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( .\bim;t Libkakv from its commence- ment. I. NARRATIVE OF DISCOVf:RV AND ADVENTUKK IN THE P().\AR SEAS AND REGIONS: With Illustrations of their Climate, 'jeology, and Natural History; .'.lui an Account of the \Vm.\li;-Fishkky. Hy Sill John Leslie, K.R. G., Professor of Natural I'hilosophv in tht- University of Kiiinbursjh, and Corresixinding Member of the Hoyal Iii>ti. '. te of France; Uobeiit Jameson, Esq., F.H.S.K. x L., F. I,..S., M.W.s., Regius Professor of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh ; and Ih (Jii Mi krav, Esq., F.Il.S.E. 3d Edit. In one volume. EmtwUishcd with Charts of the Koutes of Discovery, and Fifteen Engni\inf.'v exhiliiting I'ictureviiie N'iews of the Arctic Keffioii's, Jinmiis of the \fttivi> with tlieir ()ccui«ttions and Purbuits, Natural History, Wliale-Fisliei.. , &'■. II. NARRATIVE OF DISCOVER V AND ADVENTURE IN AFRICA, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO TlIK PRESENT TIME. With Illustrations of the Geology, Mineralogy, and Zoology. By HiCH MiHRAV, Esq., F.R.S.E ; Professor Jameson ; and Ja.ml-> Wilson, Esq., F. R. .S. E., and M. W. .S. 2d Edit. In one volume. With a Map, and Plans of the Routes of Park, and of Denham ft..d Clap- I>ert()n, and 'J'liirteen F.ngravini,'s illustrative of the Scenery, Natural Historv , Costume of the Inhabitants, &c. •2 EDINnUUOII CADINKT LIBRARY. III. VIKW OF ANCIENT AND MODERN EGYPT: With ail Outline of its Natural History. ny the lU'v. Mr( iiAi-.i, Rrssr.i.i., 1,1. I). -M F.dit. In one volume. llliistrati'.! liv a Mai., a I'.utniit <«f Moliunimid Ali, and Ten otIuT KriKravings i.-iirrsfiitiiiK the most Itciimrkablc 'IVini.ks, I'yramids, and other Monuments ..I Aniinu't)' IV. PALESTINE, OR THE HOLY LAND; iHoM Till'. i:aiu,ii:mt iM.iiioK Id Tin, pkksi:nt timi:. Hy the lU'v. Mi(HAi:i, Hi ssKi.i., LL.I)., Author of '« View ol" Ancicnl aiul Modem Egypt," iltc. .'id Edit. In one volume. With a Map, and Nine Kni,'ravin«s representing its mojt striking Scencrj , Temples, Henmins of Antiquity, &c. V. LIVES AND VOYAGES OF DRAKE, CAVENDISH. AND DA.'MPIER: Including an Introductory View of the Earlier Discoveries in the South Sea ; and the IIistouv of the Ur( (;am:krs. In one volume. With Portraits engraved in Horshurfsli's best line manner. VL VII. VIII. HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF BRITISH INDIA, l-ROM Till-. MOST HI:M0TK ITKIOl) TO TIIF. PRl'SF.NT TIME : Including a Narrative of the Early Portuguese and English Voyages, the IJevolutums in the Mogul Empire, and the Origin, I'rogress, and Esta- lilishmcnt of the Hritish Power : with Ulustraticmsof the Zoology— Ho- taiiy— Climate, Ceology.and Mineralogy :— also Medical Observations,— an Account of the Hindoo Astnmomy— the Trigonometrical iSurveys-- and the Navigation of the Indian Sea.s. By Hrt.ii Mirhay, Esq., r.Il..'^.E.; Jamis Wii.s.f,, F'sii., K.R.S.E. cV M.W.S. ; R. K. Guevili.f., I.L.I).; Prom.ssor Jamkson ; VViinii-AW AiNsi.ii,, M.D., M.R.A.S., late of the Meilical Staft' of Southern India; William Rhind, Es<''VVrill ri«> til" (Irri-ii I'rill.lHIIKII UV OI.IVKIl )k noYi **!^m^'.>-Ud ^l^ j^y Vtn 11(1 MM! T« IHI Atl J^'"^] (' o r /'! t lluiU y^^" ./ .\' , iith inM a s .vt/ri.f«j«>M,T ' A¥^fS? ! tCtiruham Mfti'n > ■'•'"•'",ir:!!^(,- ,...•"'•" I\l.,,klf.;.f •'"*" |.//'lf/(//li/A' 7.% 711 piu*i(ii«l4* Weill I'iO ol' (Irrfitwirli . HO I'.l) IJY UI.IVKIl !t »OYI». KDINIUimil ■■0f \ . X -.***■ 4 l^F f^- -.*;':>A'J*?i'- V^/ .> ^^^J5«a •im»w| >■ ituii ii^ii^iiifMiiiyiiiif |i>| III I u 1 1 IMIOGRKSS 0\- I)IS(()VKUV l)V Till MOKK NOUTIIEUN COASTS I IF AMERICA. OLIVER & BOYD, EDINnUKGII. n ■Pi! MPP ^«ii|.,«B%, imiili'lliiiiir'iiii «iaa»t f PIIKFACE. in the Polar Rejjions. The tracts, also, over which ti icy passed, — hcin^r tenanted l)y animals of remark- al)le and varied form, adorned by nature with the richest and most beautiful furs, — yielded numerous objects not only of tlie hi^diest interest to the zoolo- i,ncal observer, but of great value as the materials of an extensivi? commerce. The present volume, therefore, which exhibits a view of all tliat is im- portant in our knowledge of the most remote ter- ritories of Anu'rica, when studied in combination witli the ^' Polar Seas and Regions," of which it may be regarded as the sequel, will l)e found to sup- ply a complete account of the wiiole series of Nortli- ern Discoveries by land and water. Of this work the Historical and Critical depart- ments have been contributed by Patrick Fkaser Tytleu, Esq., the distinguished Author of the History of Scotland, and the Natural History by James Wilson, Esq., — two gentlemen whose names, the publishers are confident, will furnish a sufficient security that the task committed to them has been executed with care. In the Appendix it has been the object of INIr Tytler, not only to vindicate from a late attack the reputation of an excellent writer, but if possible to set at rest the disputed point regarding the discovery of North America. In this investi- gation he has endeavoured to unite the patient re- search, which is absolutely requisite for the discovery of truth on such a subject, with a popular mode of communicating it. The high qualifications of Mr Wilson our readers have already had ample oppor- tunities t'> appreciate ; and we may add that, from his intimate acquaintance and correspondence with Dr Richardson, whose name stands so high among tl I (I SI iU nil ''I CI iPPPPR' PREPACK. J> er which r remark- with the lumerous he zoolo- materials volume, at is im- iiote ter- bination which it I to sup- f North- depart- Fraser • of the Jtory by ' names, iflfieient as been iS been from a ter, but warding nvesti- ent re- icovery lode of of Mr oppor- p from e with imong (he explorers of the Northern Regions, he has enjov- rd peculiar advantages in preparing the interesting Sketch. 's now subii)itt<'d to tlie public. The stu- (h'Ht of natural history who has perused the sum- maries of African and Indian Zoology wliich have appeared in the former volumes of the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, will not fail to perceive their increased value when examined in connexion with that now given, inasmuch as they afford the mate- rials of a comparative view of the animal kingdom in three principal divisions of our globe, and thereby throw a valuable light on the subject of zoologiciil geography, which has recently excited the attention of the scientific world. The ^lap has been constructed with the greatest care : it comprehends all the recent Discoveries ori the northern boundary of America, a. d fully ex- hibits the routes of the diflcTent trav.llers*^ and navigators whose adventures are recorded in the text. The Engravings by Jackson illustrate several striking specimens of natural history, drawn chiefly from nature, and other objects characteristic of that (luarter of the globe. There is also a portrait of Cortes after Titian,— executed in tlie first style of the art. EDis-nrRGH, .litf/ust 1«H2. ■M^^ii-fyKihrt^:^ CONTENTS. CHArXKIl I. DISCOVF.RY OF VORTH AM^.niCA— EARLY VOYACIES OF THK rOIlTUOUESE, FREVCIl, AND SPANIARDS. First Discovery of Nortli America by John Cabot— Voyajres o. Sebastian Cabot— Of the Cortereals— Discovery of Labrador —French Discoveries— Voyages of Verazzano— Of Jaccines Cartier— Discovery of Canada— Spanish Voyages of Discovery — Cortes — Uiloa — Alarchon — Visciiino, Page 1 7 CHAPTER II. RUSSIAN AND ENGLISH VOYAGES. Behring—Tchirikow—Cook and Gierke — 3Ieares_ Vancouver— Kotzebue, };0 CHAPTER III. HEARNE AND SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. Colonisation of Canada— French Fur Trade— Rise of Hudson s Bay Company— Hearne's Three Joumevs— Nortli-west Fur 12 CONTENTS. Company — First Journey r)f Sir Alexander Mackenzie in \'JiV.) — His Second Flxj)e— Pajfe l.'J.'i IC OCEAK. of Captain 2(l» HISTOHY. ■'itli uncivil- nd Feature nndarii's of Sources of America — tlie Rocky re, 2m ■ T Manuots — The S(|uirrel Triln? — The Canada I'orcupine — Thr American Hare — The Pohir Hare — The Prairie Hare — The LittU* ("iiief Hare — (lenus Cerviis — The Klk, or Moos»Mleer — The Hein-)l iMERlCA. in North irew-mole Bears — The Sea- tes— The igs— The ise— The CHAPTKll VIII. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE FISHES AND OTHEK ZOOLOGICAL PRODUCTIONS Ol' THE NORTHERN REtUONS OF AMERICA. Sturgeon — Salmon — Trout — Char — Cajx^lan — White Fish — Blue Fish — Herring — Pike — Burbot — Perch — Bull-head — Northern Insects — Their Natural Preservation from Cold — More Northern Extension of Tropical Forms in America than in Europe — Bees — Extension Westwards of the Honey-bee— Diptera — Melville Island Spider — Buttertties, 'AiVi 1 14 CONTENTS. CHAPTEll IX. I IIARACTERISTIC FKATIIIKS IS TIIK HOTANY OF THi: NOUTHKHN HKdIONSOF AMKHICA. Mr Urnwn's ()l)scrvati()n.s on tlte relative Prf)|)()rtioiis of the Twn jrnmt Divisions of Ph{Eno|^moii.s Plants — lieautifiil small Wiilou from Kast (ireeiilaiid — Notices of the mon? remarkahle S|M'cie-> collected by l)r Hidiardson — Galium Tinctoriiim — Cornus AIha — Phlox IlrKKlii — Vihurnnm Kdide — Azalea Niidicaiilis — Liliiini Philadelphicnm — Epilohiiini An^iistifolium — Ledum I^atifolium — I,. Palustre — Primus Virj^iniana — Pyrus Ovalis — Crepis Nana — Cineraria Conj^esta — Pinus Nigra — P. Alba — P. Oanksiana — P. MicrocarjKi — P. Lamlwrtiana- -Knux'tnmi Nigrum — Myrica Galf — Populus Trepida — Populus Balsamiiera — Junijwrus Prostrata — Splachnum Mnioides— Dicranum Ehjiigtituni — GjTophora pm- boscidca — Hy|x»rlK)rea Pennsylvanica, Mecklenl>ergii, vellea — Cetraria Richardsonii — Fucus Ceranoides — Difficulties in the De- teniiination of Arctic Species — Plants recently introduced to the British Gardens — Lathyrus Decaphyllus — Eutoca Franklinii — Lupinus Littctralis — Clarkia Pulchella — Gerardia Capitata — New D(Klecatheon — Androm'^da 1'»;tragona — Menziesia Empetrift)lia — Azalea LapjK)nica — Diyas Drunimondia, Page 31)1' 1 I CHAPTEll X. SKETCH OF THE GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF SOJME OF THE NORTHERN DISTRICTS OF AMERICA. Frozen Subsoil of Hudson's Bay — Primitive Rocks of Hayes Ri- ver — Hill River — Borders of Knee Lake — Remarkable Rock- island of Magnetic Iron Ore — Lake \Vini|)eg — Limestone Dis- trict — Fort Chij)ewvan — Carp Lake — Gneiss Formation of the 7 1 ( ONTKNTS. ir. OF THi; )f tlie Two nail Willow ble S|K»c-itvs orniis AIha lis — Liliuni atit'olium— ;)i.s Nana — ksiana — P. lyricaGalf > Frostrata •phora pri>- i, vellea — in the De- iced to tile ranklinii— ata — New upetrifolia .Page 31»» Baneii (irniinds — Tran.s|)arpnt Waters of (ireat Hear Lake Knit Franklin — Hear I,;ik«' Miver — I,ii;;iiite l-'orniatiori otMai • ken/.ie Uiver — SjMmtaneons Fire — Pi[M'-elav — Alluvii-.l I>l;in«|s at the Mouth of the Maekeiizie — ('iip|H>r Moiintain.s ConiMT- inine River — Islands of the Aretic Si-a — Arctic Sliore_('ar)c Harrow — Cialena Point — M«M»re's Bay — liankes' Peninsula Har- ry's Island — ('a{K> Ooker — Point Tiirna^in — (ieneral Occur- rence of the New Hed Sandstone — IIocmI's Itiver — WilU'rllirt »• Falls—Clneiss Formation— (ieneral Siunniaiy, Pa^'e 4(M APPENDIX. Hkmahks on a Late Memoih oi Sehastiax (ahot. uiTu A Vindication or Hkiiard IIakluyt,.. 417 OF the iayes Ri- ile Rock- :one Dis- )n of the KX(; RAVINGS. Mai* of the Nortlicrn Coasts of America,. •• Tojnce the VifpietU-. VKiXKTTE — Sc'ciic near Mount Coplostoiu', or Western Ter- mination of the Roeky Monntains. Portrait of I lernan ('ortes, f/r .'»{ :2»;il 3-Jl 'A'2\i xn :i4A :u!» yiiu A31E1UCA. CHArTKK I. Diicovcrjf of North Amtrica — Knrhi Voiioyea of tlir rorttiijime, French, and Spanianhi. First Disoovorv of" North AiniMica hv .John ralK)t — Voya^'s of Sebastian Cabot — Of tlio Cortcrcals — Discovery of Lal)rador — French Discoveries— Voyages ot" Vera/.zano— Of .laccjiies ('artier— Discovery ol" Canada— Spanish Voyaj^es of Discovery Cortes — UUoa — Alarchon — Viscaino. WiiKN we peruse the lives of such men as De Gania and Colunilms, and consider the complicated dif- ficulties overcome hy these early navigators, their imperfect means, and the dark and defective state of their knowledge, it is diHicult to repress astonish- ment at the success which attended their exertions, and the magnitude and splendourof their discoveries. In reflecting, indeed, upon so great a theme as the revelation of a new world, it becomes us to raise our minds from the region of second v'auses to the awful contemplation of that Almighty Being, who con- 18 COLUMBUS. rouiuls tlu? calculations of man l)y l)rin<,nnfj stupen- dous results out of the fcchUst human preparations; and it is one of the fiiK'St features in the charact<'r of Coluinhus, that he invariably acted under the con- viction of heiii'^ selected l»v (rod for ;he task which he at len^dh aecomj)lished ; hut the admiration with wliich we re 30th of i\Iay \4\)H; w»liilst there is certain (Evidence th.at, almost a year before, an Eng- lish vessel had reached tlie shores of North America. As much obscurity hangs over the circumstances of tliis early voyage, and as I have arrived at a conclu- sion completely at variance with that adopted by a late acute writer, •' it will oe necessary to dwell with some minuteness on the liistory of this great event. * Tht; author of t}ie Mi>nioir oC Sohastian (.'ahot, [)[). 50, ."»|, an ananymuus %v(!ik (Loiuloii, IBUl), \v!;icli contains nuicli iii^eiiious e JOIIX CABOT. ID [J stiipon- arations; character r the coii- sk wliicli tion witli icontcni- L'd rather primitive 'Solution. > the de- ;»eii made roceed to interest- f liumaii rica, and lie more lout de- )!umhus, nistanee;, iuiiola as I not as- f South ; tliere is an FjUg- Vnurica. taiices of , conclu- ted hy a ell with event. o(>, ;"i|, an iii'renioiis The attention paid to navigation by th(> conmuT- cial states of Italy, and especially hy the republics ofCrenoaand Venice, is iainiliar to all ac(juainted with the history of Europe durinn the liftt'enlh century. Italian merchants and a^jents of opulent commercial housi's were found settled in every Eu- ropean state ; and the impetus communicated to the human mind by the discoveries of the Portu- ijuese and the Spaniards rendered the sciences of <'Osniotirapliy and navi^^alion the most popular sub- jects of instruction which were taui^ht in the schools. A devotion to them became fashionable amonjjf the noble and ardent youths, who associated with them all that was romantic and deliuhtful ; tliey wen considered as the certain guides to darinij and suc- cessful maritime adventure, a^'d the handmaids to wealth and fame. It wus about this momentous period, in the year J4J)4, that we lind a Wiietiaii. naiiK^d John Cabot or Gabota, residing in the opu- lent city of Bristol. At what precise time he set- tled in England is not now discoverable ; we on!v know that he left Italy for the purpose of devotiiii: himself to the mercantile profession. He was on" of those enthusiastic spirits upon whom the career of Columbus made a deep impression ; and about a year after the return of the grcjit GiMioese from his first voyaf,H\ the merchant of Bristol a}){)ears to have embraced the idea that new huids niiijht be dis- covered in the north-west, and a [)assa^(' in all pro- critirisin and \aliiahl(' research. It is, li()\v(>ver, uiiiiappilv ioiii'iised in its arran^i'iiieiit, and written thrdUij^-Iioiit in a torn- uf as|)eiit\ uliieli, in the disenssion (if a siilijeet (»l renioto hio^rapliv, is nnpiea- >ant and uncalled for. The aiitlior has h'cn nnjn-^tly se\en.' in iiis animadversions on tiie labours of Hakh'.yt, of wlicni a brief ^'in(!:- calion will he fouiid at the end ol'liiis noIuiu''. 20 JOHN CABOT AM) IIKNRY VII. habilitv attained l)V this course to India. • Animated hy siu'li a project, Cahot addressed himself to Henry VII., and found immediate encouraijenii'nt from that monarch, who, though of a cold and cautious disposition, was seldom alow to listen to any proposal which pnmiised an increase of wealth to his exche- quer. On the oth of IMarch llilf), the kintj granted his roval commission to John Cahot, citizen of Ve- nice, and his sons, Louis, Sebastian, and Sanchez, committing to him and them, and to their heirs and deputies, full authority to sail to all countries and seas of the East, West, and North, under the banner of Enls, which hitherto had been unknown to all the nations of Christen- dom, in whatever part of the globe they might be placed. By the same deed the Cabots were em- powered to set up the banners aiid ensigns of Eng- land in the newly-discovered countries ; to subdue and possess them as lieutenants of the king; and to enjoy the privilege of exclusive trade; — the wary monarch, however, annexing to these privileges the condition, that he was to receive the fifth part of the capital gain upon every voyage, and binding their ships to return to the port of Bristol. t tl <• ai a * Tirahosclii, Storia dolla LotttT. Itul., vol. vi. b. i. cap. fl. § 24. -|- I have neailv I'olluwod tlie uonls of this important document, which ib still liieserved. Hymer, l^a^deia Ai)glia^, vol. xii. p. 5Uo. JOHN CABOT DISCOVERS NORTH AMERICA. 21 Animated to Ilcnrv K'lit from 1 cautious V proposal lis cxchc- iff^^rantcd *n of Ve- Saiu'hcz, lieir Jicirs countries mdcr the whatever ht cl loose iron was heir own stated to i I)rovin- hitherto 'hristen- iiight be ere em. of Eng. subdue ; and to le wary leges the irtof the iig their |). ♦». § 24. ortant facts are ascertained l)y this au- thentic document : It proves that Jolm C^almt, a citizen of Venice, was the principal author of, and adventurer in, the project ; and that no voyage with a similar object had been undertaken prior to the oth of iAIarch U9."). TIk' expedition, however, did not sail till the spring of 14i>7> more than a twelvemonth subse- quent to the date of the original commission. What occasioned this delay it is now difficult to deter- mine ; but, as the lleet was to be equipped at the tjole expense of the adventurers, it is not impro- bable that Cabot had required the interval to raise the necessary capital. It is much to be regretted that in no contemporary chronicle is there any de- tailed account of the voyage. We know, however, that it was conducted by John Cabot in person, who took with him his son Sebastian, then a verv young man. Its result was undoubtedly the dis- covery of North America ; and although the parti- culars of this great event are lost, its exact date has been recorded by an unexceptionable witness, not only to a day but even to an hour. On an ancient map, drawn by Sebastian Cabot, the son, whose name appears in the commission by the king, engraved by Clement Adams, a contemporary, and published, as there is reason to believe, under the eye of Sebastian, was written in Latin the following brief but clear and satisfactory account of the discovery : — " In the year of our Lord 1497, John Cabot, a Venetian, and his son Sebastian, discovered that country, which no one before his time had ventured to approadi, on the 24th of June, about five o'clock in the morning. He called the land Terra Primum Visa, because, as »Wf««w»«n|ki».t oo DISCOVERY OF NORTH AMERICA I cojijccturc, this ^vas the place tliat first met liiscvcs ill look inn from tlie sea. On the contrarv, the island which lies ()])i)osite the land he called the Island of St John, — as I suj){)ose;, because it was discovered on tile festival of St John the Baptist. The inhabitants wear beasts' skins and the intestines of animals for clothing, esteeniinurage a the ori- ator he, second [•red an IS than 'abotto, p.5U. Venetian, to take at his pleasure six English ships, with their necessary apparel, and to lead them to the land and isles lately found by him according to the royal command, ('abot was also permitted to receive on board all such masters, mariners, pages, and other subjects, as chose to accompany him ; and it seems pro- bable, from some entries in the privy purse expenses, that Launcelot Thirkill of London, Thomas Brad- ley, and John Carter, embarked in the adventure.* When about to set sail on his second voyage^ John Cabot, who had previously received from Henry the honour of knighthood, appears, from some cause not now discoverable, to have been prevented from taking the command ;t and though the name of Sebastian was not included in the second royal commission, h(» waspromoted to the situation left vacant by his father. He must still indeed have been a young man ; but he had accompanied the first voyage, and at an early age developed that genius for naval enterprise which afterwards so remarkably distinguished him. We know from his account of liimself that, at the time his parents carried him from Venice to London, he had attained some knowledge of the sphere; and when about this period the great discovery of Colum- bus began to be talked of in England as a thing almost more divine than human, the effect of it upon his youthful imagination was to excite " a mighty long- ing," to use his own words, " and burning desire in his heart that he too should perform some illustrious * Sec Mr Xioholas' excellent collection entitled Excerpta His- torica, pp. IKI, 11 7. •j- The cause mi^lit be his death ; hut this is conjecture, — of the tact there is no direct proof: of the knighthood it is not possible to doubt. See, in the Vindication of Hakluyt, the remarks on the er- rors of the biographer of Cabot in his chapter on this subject. 26 SEBASTIAN CABOT : action. "■•• With such dispositions wo may easily iina{,nn(* liow rapid must have been his prourcss in naval science, witli the Ijcncfit of liis father's ex- aniph* and instructions. It is not matter of sur- prise therefore, that, tliouijlj prohal)!ynot more than twenty-three years old, the conduct of tiie enter- pris(? was intrusted to him. He accordingly sailed from Euiiland with two ships in the sunnner of }4\)U, and directing his course; hy Iceland soon reach- ed Newfoundland, which lie called Terra do JJacca- laos, from the ^reat quantity of fish of that name. Of this remarkahle voyage a short account is pre- served by Peter iMartvr, the historian of the New World, a writer of high authority, and so intimate a friend of the navigator, that, at the time he wrote the passage which we now give, Sebastian was in the iiabit of paying liim frequent visits at his house. "'' These northern seas," says this writer, " have been navigated and explored by Sebastian C^abot, a Vene- tian by birth, whom his parents, w hen they were set- ting out to settle in Britain, according to the common custom of the Venetians, who for the sake of com- mercial adventure become citizens of every country, carried along with them when he was little more than an infant.t He fitted out two ships in England at his own charges, and first with three hundred men directed his course so far towards the North Pole, that even in the month of July Ire found great heaps of ice swimming in tlie sea, and almost con- tinual daylight. Yet he saw tlic land free from ice. w ob <•(> an fai nil eq of tu hi en * Uaniusio, Viaj;;gi, vol. i. p. 414. ■f Cabot was Iwrn in Eiit^Iand, and carried by his father into Italy when tour years old. He was afterwards brought liack to I'lngland when a youth, " assai g-iovane." — Rauuisio, vol. L p. 414. Memoir of Calx)t, J). ij\i. 3IAUTYU S ACCOUNT OF HIS VOVA(}i:. 27 lav easily roirrcss in tiler's ex- r of sur- norc than lie cntcr- i:ly sailed iiiinicr of on rcacli- o Ijacca- nanie. nt is [)r('- tlic New intimate lie wrote 'as in the s house, ave been , a Vene- vvere set- common of eora- countrv, lore than gland at red men th Pole, id great ost con- rom ice^ into Italy I) I'liig-land McMiioii whieh had been melted by the heat of the sun. Thus, observing sueh masses of iee before him, he was eompclled to turn his sails and follow the west; and, coasting still by t!ie shore, was brought so far into the south, by reason of the land bending much to the soutliward, that U was there almost equal in latitude with the sea called Fretum II(T- <'uleum. He sailed to the west till he had the Island of ('uba on his b'ft hand, almost in the same 'ongi- tude. As he passed along those coasts, called by him Baccalaos, he aflirmed that he found the same cru'rent of the waters towar^'.s the west whicli tlu' Spaniards met with in the southern navigations, with the single difference that they flowed more gent- ly. From this circumstance it appears to me," says iMartyr, '' not only a probable, but an almost ne- cessary conclusion, tbat there must exist, between both the continents liiLherto unknown, great gaps or «)pen places, through which the waters continually pass from the east to th(; west. * " '^' Sebas- tian Cabot himself named these lands Baccalaos, because in tlie seas thereabout he found such an immense multitude of large fish like tunnies, called baccalaos by the natives, that they actually imped- ed the sailing of his sliips. He found also the in- habitants of these regions covered with beasts' skins, vet not without the use of reason. He also relates that tliere are plenty of bears in these parts, which feed upon fish. It is the practice of these animals to throw tluTiiselves into tlie midst of tlie shoals of fish, and, each seizing his prey, to bury their claws in the scales, drag them to land, and there devour them. On this account he says, that these bears meddle little with men. '■■ '• ''•' Cabot is my 28 SEBASTIAN CABOT : iiitiniato friend, and one whom it is my dclicht to iiavc frcquc'ntly under my roof; for, Ix'in^ called out of En^jland by tlie command of tlw; King of C'astile after the deatli of Ileiirv VII., he was made one of our council and assistsuits relating to the affairs of the new Indies ; and he looks daily for ships to l)e fitted out for him that he may discover this hidden secret of nature. I expect," concludes Peter Martyr, '^ that he will be able to set out on his voyage during the course of the next year, LIK), and in tlie month of iMarcli."^' When it is known that 8el)astian Ca- lx)t's second voyaget fi'om England to North Ame- rica did not take place till ir>17> it beccmes certain that the above passage, written in lol;"), must relate to the expedition of 1498; and remembering that the aathor was personally intimate with this navi- gator, and wrote only seventeen years after the voy- age had taken place, we are inclined to set a high value on such an authority. It is deeply to be re- gretted that the original maps drawn by so eminent a discoverer, and the discourses with which he il- lustrated them, are now lost ; J but in this deficiency of original materials the work of Ramusio, — a collec- tor of voyages who was a contemporary of Cabot, — supplies some valuable information. In the first volume of his Voyages this amusing writer has introduced a discourse upon the different * Peter Martyr, De Orbe Novd, lid decad. cat). H. l^dition bjr Hakliiyt, p. 2H2."_Eden's Translation in Willes' Hist, of Travayle, p. 12o. — The hidden secret, or natural phenomenon, of which Cahot was expected to penetrate the cause, is stated by Martyr at p. 231, — it was to resolve the (juestion, " Why the seas in these parts run with so swiit a current from the east to tiie west:'" ■f- Althoufrh the son acconnxmied the father, I consider the voy- age of 1497 as solely conducted by John Cabot. ;J: Memoir of Cabot, p. 41. rf C( tl HIS VOYAGE TO AMKUICA. 2<) delight to calk'd out of C'astile made ono tln' affairs iliips to l)(> lis liiddon r INIartyr, ige during he montli istian Ca- rth Anie- es certain ust relate ring that his navi- the vov- ft a high to be re- eminent ell he il- efieiency a eollec- Cabotj — amusing different I-dition by I'ravayle, liicli Cabot • at p. 231, e parts run r the vov- routes !>v which the spices of the East were con- vev't'd in ancient times to Europe; and towards the conclusion of the essay he brings in a subject which then deeply occuj)ied the attention of learned men, — the projci't, nauK'ly, for discovering a passage to the kingdom of Cathay and the coasts of India, by the north-west. In the discussion of this point, Ramusio minutelv describes a conversation, which took place at the villa of the celebrated Italian physi- cian and poet Fracastoro, between Kamusio himself, Fracostoro, an architect named St INIichael, and a cer- tain philosopher and mathematician, who gave them an account of an interview w hich he once had with Sebastian Cabot in the city of Seville. The whole passage is interesting, whether we look to the in- formation regarding Cabot, or to the pleasing picture it brings before us of the great P>acastoro in his philosophic and classical retreat at Caphi. No apo- logy, therefore, need be mad(? for presenting it to the reader. " Having thus given you," says the Italian writer, " all that I could extract from ancient and modern authors upon this subject, it would be in- excusable in me if I did not relate a high and ad- mirable discourse, which some few months ago it was my good fortune to hear, ir company with the excellent architect IMichael de St JMichael, in the sweet and romantic country-seat of Hieronyrao Fracastoro, named Caphi, situated near Verona, whilst we sat on the top of a hill commanding a view of the whole of the Lago di Garda. " * * Being then, as I said, at Caphi, where we had gone to visit our excellent friend Ilieronymo, we found him on our arrival sitting in company with a certain gentleman^ whose name^ from motives of delicacy 5 tmttmmmttifp^ no HAMIJSIO and respect, I conceal. He ^va>■, however, a pro- found philosoplier and niiitiieniati<*ian, and at that moment enijaijed in exliihitin^j to Fracasloro an in- strument lately constructed to show a n<'W motion of the heavens. Ilaviiit;- reasoned upon this point for a lon;j time, they hy way of recreation caused a larjjfe ^dohe, upon which the world was minutely laid down, to he brought ; and, having' this before him, the gentleman I have mentiiMied l)en;an to speak to the followin08, Terra Corterealis. It lay between the west and north- west ; an.f. after having explored it for upwards of ()00 miles with- out reaching any termination, Cortereal concluded that it must form part of the mainland, which was connected with another region discovered in the preceding year in the north, — evidently alluding to the voyage of Sebastian Cabot in 1498.t The most curious and authentic account of this remark^ able expedition of the Portuguese navigator is to be found in a letter, written by Pietro Pasquiligi, the Venetian ambassador at the court of Portugal to his brothers in Italy, only eleven days after th( return of Cortereal from iiis first voyage. " On the \M\\ of October," says he, '' there arrived in this * Cortereal had been educated in the household of the King- o^ Portugal before Ik; came to the throne, and when he still bore the title t»f Duke de Beja — Daniiano (ioes, Chronica del Key Doni. Manuel, c. <>♦», cap. •!(», p. 1!57> His cliaracter, as given by this ancient and contemporary chronicler, is brief and forcible. " Gaspar de Cortereal, son ot John \'az Cortereal, was a man of an enter- prisinrn parts." •f- Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 241. CORTEREAL. 3;5 V Cabot ill two sliips expiorijift cal toiicli- revvs, and rse never, navigator, the name be distin- liis was in in an old !ort<>realis. unA, after iles with- conciuded vhich was d in the ' alluding 8.t The s remarks ator is to *asquiligi, Portugal, after th( '' On the d in this the King- o^ itill bore the Itev Doni. iven by this p- " Ciaspar )f' an enter- xi'h'V g-lury; f" discovery, iese) having- port one of the two caravels, which were last year despatched by the Kincf of Portugal for the discovery of lands lying in the nortli, under the command of Gaspar Cortereal. He relates that he has dis- covered a country situated between tlie west and north-west, distant from this about 2000 miles, and which before the present time was utterly unknown. They ran along the coast between 000 and 700 miles without arriving at its termination, on which ac- count the}^ concluded it to be the same continent that is connected with another land discovered last year in the north, which, however, the caravels could not reach, the sea being frozen, and a vast quantity of snow having fallen. They were confirmed in the same opinion by finding so many niiijlity rivers, which certainly were too numerous and too large to have proceeded from an island. They report that this land is thickly peopled, and that the houses are built of very long beams of timber, and covered with the furs of the skins of fishes. They liave brought hither along with them seven of the inliabitants, in- cluding men, women, and children ; and in the other caravel, which is looked for every hour, they are bringing fifty more. These people, in colour, figure, stature, and expression, greatly resemble gipsies : they are clothed with the skins of different beasts, but chiefly of the otter, wearing the hair outside in summer, and next to the skin in winter. These skins, too, are not sewed together, nor shaped to the body in any fashion, but wrapt around their arms and sliculders exactly as taken from the animals ; whilst they conceal the parts which nature forbids us to expose with strong cords made of the sinews or entrails of fishes. On this account their appear- 36 CORTEREAL. ance is completely savage ; yet they are very sen- sible to shame, gentle in their manners, and better made in their arms, legs, and shoulders, than can be expressed. Their faces are punctured in the same manner as the Indians; — some liave six marks, some eight, some fewer ; they use a language of their own, but it is understood by no one. IMoreover, I believe that every possible language has been ad- dressed to them. They have no iron in their coun- try, but manufacture knives out of certain kinds of stones, with which they point their arrows. They have also brought from this island a piece of a broken sword inlaid with gold, which we can pronounce undoubtedly to have been made in Itah^ ; and one of the children had in his ears two pieces {todini) of silver, which as certainly appear to have been made in Venice, — a circumstance inducing me to believe that their country belongs to the continent, since it is evident Ihat, if it had been an island where any vessel had touched before this time, we sliould have heard of it. They have great plent}^ of salmon, herring, stockfish, and similar kinds of fish. They have also abundance of timber, and principally of the pine, fitted for the masts and yards of ships ; on which account his Serene Ma- jesty anticipates the greatest advantage from this country, both in furnishing timber for his shipping, of which he at presenl stands in great need, and also from the men who inhabit it, who appear ad- mirably fitted to endure labour, and will probably turn out the best slaves which have been discovered up to this time. This arrival appeared to me an event of which it was right to inform you ; and if on the arrival of the other caravel I receive any a v CJ c CORTEREAL. 37 e very sen- , and better than can be in the same six marks, lage of their Moreover, I IS been ad- their coun- lin kinds of )ws. They of a broken pronounce v; and one ?es {todini) have been cing me to continent, an island s time, we eat plenty ir kinds of mber, and masts and lerene Ma- from this s shipping, need, and appear ad- probably discovered to me an u ; and if eive any additional information, it shall be transmitted to you in like manner."* Nothing could be more cnicl and impolitic than the conduct of Cortereal in seizing and carrying into captivity these unfortunate natives; and it is diffi- cult to repress our indignation at the heartless and calculating spirit with which the Portuguese monarch entered into the adventure, contemplating the rich supplies of slaves that were to be imported from this new country. t It is an ingenious conjecture of the biographer of Cabot, to whose research we owe our acquaintance with this letter, that the name Terra de Laborador was given to the coast by the Portuguese slave-merchants in consequence of tlie admirable qualities of the natives as labourers, and in anticipation of the profits to be derived from a monopoly of this unchristian traffic. But distress and disaster pursued the specula- tion : On the loth jNIay 1501, Cortereal departed on a second voyage with a determination to pursue his discovery, and, as we may plausibly conjec- ture, to return with a new cargo of slaves and tim- ber ; but he was never again heard of. A similar dark and unhappy fate befell his brother, Michael de Cortereal, who sailed with two ships in search of his lost relative, but of whom no accounts ever again reached Portugal. The most probable con- jecture seems to be, that they both fell victims to the just indignation of the natives, whose wives, * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, pp. 2;il», 240. •\ I observe tbat in the History of Discovery and Adventure in tlie Polar Seas, 3d editicMi, pp. 187, 188, Mr Murray has ques- tioned tlie accuracy of the o|)inion stated by the biographer m Ca- bot, " that the objects of Cortereal's second voyage were timber and slaves." The letter, however, of Ptuifjuiligi seems to me deci- sive that, if not the sole, they were at least very principal objects in the second voyage. 38 CORTEREAL. children, and fatliers, liad been stolen away during their first visit to the eoast. " Tlie king," says Goes, '' felt deeply the loss of these two brothers, so mueh the more as they had been educated by him ; and on this account, moved by royal and gracious ten- derness, in the following year, 1503, he sent at his own expense two armed ships in search of them ; but it could never be discovered where or in what manner either th(3 one or the other was lost, on which account this province of Terra Verde, where it was supposed the two brothers perished, was call- ed the Land of the Cortereals."* The description of the inhabitants, as given by this contemporary chronicler, contains a few additional particulars to those mentioned by Pasquiligi. " The people of the country," says he, " are very barbarous and uncivilized, almost equally so with the natives of Santa Cruz, except that they are white, and so tanned by the cold that tlie wiiite colour is lost as they grow older, and they become blackish. They are of the middle size, very lightly made, and great archers. Instead of javelins, they employ sticks burnt in the end, which they use as missiles to as good purpose as if they were pointed with fine steel. They clothe themselves in the skins of beasts, of which there are great plenty in the country. They live in caverns of rocks, and in houses shaped like nests {choupanas). They have no laws, believe much in auguries, live in matrimony, and are very jealous of their wives, — in which things they much resemble the Laplanders, who also inhabit a north- ern latitude under 70° to 85°, subject to the kings of Norway and Swedeu."t * Daiuiano Goes, Chronica del Key Doiii. Manuel, part i. c. CO. t Ibid. c. 06. p. 87. UNFOUNDKD CLAIM OF THE rOHTUGUJ:SK. ,'^i) vay during says Goes^ s, so much him; and it'ious ten- sent at his of them ; )r in what s lost, on *de, where , was call- leseription temporary ticuJars to people of irous and natives of e, and so is lost as h. They and great loy sticks siles to as fine steel, leasts, of y. They iped like , believe are very ey much a north- he kings .rt i. c. UC>. Upon tliese voyages of the Cortereals the Portu- guese attempted to estahlisli a claim to the discovery of Newlbundhuid and the adjacent coasts of North America, though there is ample historical evidence that both had been visited bv the two Cabots three years prior to the departure of Cortereal from Lisbon. Maps appear to have bi'en forged to support tiiis unfair assumption ; and in a volume' j)ublished by iMadrignanon at i\Iilai? in li)()H, which represents itself to be a translation of the Italian work entitled " Paesi Nuovamente Kitiovati," the original letter of Pasquiligi, describing the arrival of Gaspar Cor- tereal, is disgracefully garbled and corrupted, — for the purpose, as it would seem, of keeping the prior discoveries of the Cabots in the background, and ad- vancing a fabricated claim for the Portuguese."' It is unfortunate that this disingenuous process of poi- soning the sources of historic truth has succeeded, and that many authors not aware of its apocryphal character, which nas been acutely exposed by the biographer of Cabot, have given a pernicious cur- rency to the fable of iMadrignanon. About fourteen years after his return from the voy- age of 1498, we have seen that Sebastian Cabot was induced to enter the se;rvice of Spain; but, though highly esteemed for his eminent abilities, appointed one of the Council of the Indies by Ferdinand, and nominated to the command of an expedition to the north in search of a north-west passage, he appears to have been baffled and thwarted in his plans by the jealousy of the Spaniards, and was at last com- pelled to abandon them on the death of Ferdinand. * Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, pp. 251, 252. 40 SEBASTIAN CABOT's RETURN TO ENGLAND. He then returned to England; and, indefatigable in the prosecution of that great object which formed tlie prominent pursuit of his life, induced Henry Vlll. to fit out a small squadron for the discovery of the north-west passage to India. Unfortunately, however, for the success of the voyage. Sir Thomas Pert, at this time vice-admiral of England, was intrusted with the supreme command, whose wanr of courage and resolution was the cause of its ulti- mate failure. The object of Cabot was to proceed by Iceland towards the American coast, which he had already explored as far as 56°, according to Ra- musio, or, if we follow Gomara, 58° north. This would lead him, to use the expression of Thorne,* by the back of Newfoundland, and from this point, pursuing his voyage farther to the northward, he ex- pected to find a passage to the kingdom of Cathay. The ships accordingly set sail, and on the 11th of June they had reached the 67^° of nortnern lati- tude. They here found the sea open, and Cabot en- tertained a confident hope of sailing through a bay or " fret," which they had then entered, to the shores • Letter of Robert Thorne Hukluyt, edition of 1589, p. 250. — " And if they will take their course, after they he past the Pole, towards the Occident, they shall ^oe in the back side of the New- foundland, which of late was discovered by your Grace's subjects, until they come to the back side and south seas of the Indies Occi- dental : And so, continuing their voyage, they may return thorow the Straight of Magellan to this country, and so they compass also tlie world by that way ; and if they goe this third way, and after they be past the Pole, goe right toward the Pole Antarticke, and tlien decline towards the lancis and islands situated between the tropicks and under the eciuinoctial, without doubt thev shall find there the richest lands and islands of the world, of gold, precious stones, balniis, spices, and other thinges that we here esteem most, which come out of strange countries, and may return the same way." See also Gomara, as quoted in the Memoir of Sebastian Cabot, p. 21. LAND. SEBASTIAN CABOT ENTERS HUDSON'S BAY. 41 atigable in cli formed ed Henry discovery rtunately, ir Tlioraas land, was hose wanf, f its ulti- to proceed wliich he ng to Ra- th. This lorne,* by lis point, rd, lie ex- 1 Cathay, le 11th of Hern lati- Cabot en- !i a bay or lie shores 589, p. 250. ust the Pole, )f the New- e's subjects, Indies Occi- turn thorow ompass also y, and after articke, and etween the V shall find fd, precious iteem most, same way." :ian Cabot, of the Eastern Cathay, when a mutiny of the mari- ners, and the faintheartedness of Sir Thomas Pert, coinpelK'd him, much against his inclination to desist from the farther prosecution of the voyage, and return home. • From the high latitude reached by this enterprising seaman, as well as from the expressions employed by Sir Humphrey Gilbert in speaking of the voyage, it appears certain that Cabot had entered the great bay afterwards explored by Hudson, and since known by his naine.t It is an extraordinary * It is evidently to tliis third voyaj^e that the passage in lla- musio, vol. iii. p. 4, ul'the " Discorso soprail terzo voliMne,"ap[)lies. Memoir ot ('al)ot, p. 11/. It is valuable, as this author, thoui^h he appears by uiistake to have put tlu; name of Henry VII. for that of Henry VIII. (piotes iu it a letter which many years before he had received from Sebastian Cabot hiniselC. He (Rannisio) in speakini^ of the discoveries siibsecpiently made by V Crazzano, anrl of the cxnmtry of New France, remarks, that of this land it is not certain as yet whether it is joined to the continent of Florida and New Spain, or whether it is separated into islands, and may thus admit of a passag'e to the kitij^dom of Cathay. " Come," he proceeds, " come mi fu scrittogia molti anni sctno, dal Sijj^nor Sebastian Gabotto nostro Vinitianohuomodij^rande esperienza et raro nelT arte del navi^are, e nella scienza di cosmo^raria: il (piale avea navicato disopra di questa terra della Nuova Francia a spese del Re Henrico VII. d'lni^hilterra e me diciva, come essendo Cjj^li andatolimj^amentealla volta de ponentee (juarta di Maestro dietro(pu'ste Isoleposte lunj^o la delta terra fini aj^radi sessanta sette e mezzo sotto il nostro {K)Io a xi. di Gui^no e trovandosi il mare aperto e senza impedimento alcuno, pensava fermamente per ([uella via di poter passare alia volta del Catuio Orientale, e I'avrebbe fatto, se la mali^^nita del piidrone e de marineri sollevati non fhavesseio fatto tornare a die- tro." This discourse is dated 20th June 1553. •j- Hakhiyt, vol. iii. {). 1<>. It must be recollected that Sir Iliim- pbrey Gilbert had the advantag'e of having examined the charts of Sebastian Cabot, which, he tells us, were then to be seen in tlio Queen's privy {gallery at Whitehall. It has also been acutely re- marked by a late writer (Memoir of Cabot, p. 2!)), that Ortelius, who died nine years before Hudson undertook his first vov'ai^e, in the map of America, [)id)lished in his threat geographical work, the "Theatrum Orbis Terrarum," has laid down the form of Hudson's Bay with singular precision. Now we know by the list of authori- ties cited by Ortelius, that he was in [jossession of a map of the world by Sebastian Cabot. The source, therefore, from which ho derived his information is evident. .i;ta-;^_' ■\'2 VKRAZZANO S VOYAOi:. fact, llicroforc, l)ut it rests u|)()n ex iddico wliicli it would ])(' dillic'iilt to controvert, tliat ninety years iM'fore t\w first vovaije of Hudson lie liad been anti- eipated in liis j)rineii)al discovery l)y an early navi- ie that this sliore l>eh)iiired either to North or South Carolina ;t and the appearance of many larm' fires on tlie beach convinced him that the coun- try was inhabited. Verazzaiio, however, in vain souirht for a port; and after ('xplorin^r th<' coast both to the south and north without success, he was com- peHed to anchor in the open sea, after which he sent fiis boat on shore to open an intercourse with the na- tives. This lie effected not without some diflicultv; for as soon as tlie French landed the savafjes lied in i,nvat tre])idatioii ; yet they soon aft<'r stole back, ex- hibiting signs of much wonder and curiosity. At last, being convinced that they had nothing to fear, they completely recovered their confidence, and not only brouiiht provisions to the French, but assisted them in drawing their boat on shore, and carefully and minutely scrutinized everything belonging to the vessels and the crew. They admired the white skin of the strangers, handled their dress, and exhibited the utmost astonishment and delight. They themselves were a handsome race of people, their eyes dark and large, their expression bold, open, and cheerful ; their chests were broad, and th^y combined middle stature and symmetry of limbs with great nimbleness and swiftness of foot. Their colour was tawny, not unlike the ^-iaraceiis, and they wore their hair, which was black and thick, tied behind their head in a little tail, and sometimes ornamented with a garland of birds' feathers. Their bodies were not disfigured or tat- * Ilamusio, Viag'^i, vol. iii. p. 420 — " Dovi sconsiiumo una terra iiiiova, iion pin (ia j^-rantichi ne da inodfrni vistiu t " Sta qucsta terra ui ^vddi 34"."— liamusiu, voL iii. p. 420. 44 VERAZZANO. toocd in cany way, and tlicy walked about perfectly naked, exeept that they wore short aprons of furs fastened round their middh' by a ^'irdle of woven grass. In the immediate vicinity of the coast the country was sandy, rising into ^'entle undulations; as they proceeded it became more elevated, and was covered by noble woods, consistin^r, not of the usual forest-trees, but of th<' palm, laurel, cypress, and others then unknown in Europe, which grew to a great height, and diffused a delicious perfume that was discerned far out at sea. ^* The land also," says Verazzano in his letter to Francis I., '' is full of many animals, as stags, deer, and hares, which were seen sporting in the forests, and frequenting the banks of pleasant lakes and rivers ; nor w^ere the» wanting great plenty and variety of birds of gai "tted to afford delightful recreation for the sportsman. The sky was clear, the air wholesome and temperate, the prevalent wind blowing from the west, and the sea calm and placid. In short a country more full of ame- nity could not well be imagined."* An excellent author and navigator thinks it probable that the spot where Verazzano first landed was on the coast of Georgia, near the present town of Savannah.t From this he proceeded along the shore, which turned to the eastward and appeared thickly inha- bited, but so low and open that landing in such a surf was impossible. In this perplexity a young sailor undertook to swim to land and accost the na- tives ; but when he saw the crowds which thronged the beach he repented of his purpose, and, although within a few yards of the landing-place, his cour- j iaaMMM ■ ■; »ii— ■■ i ■ ■ -■ ■ ■ ,m, — .. ■ -■■■ ■ ■, i i ii i ■ ■ ■ iiM ■ ^i-i i ■■ ■ i i ■ ■ i-* n ■ ■ i i * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 420. •}• Forster's Discoveries iii the North, p. 433. VKRAZZANO. 4r) perfectly s of furs )f woven coast the ilations ; ted, and )t of the cy[)ress, I ^'rew to inie tliat so/' says of many /ere seen banks of wanting Hted to in. The rate, the the sea ofame- xcellent tliat the he coast lah.t which ly inha- L such a young the na- hronged Ithough is cour- age failed, and he attempted to turn back. At this moment the water only reached his waist ; but, over- come with terror and exhaustion, he had scarcely strength to cast his presents and trinkets upon the beach, when a high wave cast him stupified and senseless u|)on the shore. The savages ran imme- diately to bis assistance, and carried him to a little distance from the sea, where it was some time be- fore he recovered his recollection ; and great was his terror when lu' found himself entirely in their power. Stretching his hands towards the ship, he uttered a oiercing shriek, to which liis friends of the New World re[)lied by raising a loud yell, intended, as he afterw^ards found, to encourage him. But, if this was sufliciently alarming, theii farther proceedings proved still more formidable. They carried him to the foot of a hill, turned his face towards the sun, kindled a large fire, and stripped him naked. No doubt was now left in the mind of the unhappy man that they were about to offer him as a sacrifice to the sun ; and his companions on board, who watch- ed the progress of the adventure, unable, from the violence of the sea, to lend him assistance, were of the same opinion. They thought, to use Verazza- no's own words, that the natives were going to roast and eat him.* But their fears were soon turned into gratitude and astonishment ; for they only dried his clothes, warmed him, and showed him every mark of kindness, caressing and patting his white skin ; and on observing that he still trembled and looked suspicious, they assisted him to dress, conducted him to the beach, tenderly embraced him, and, pointing Ramusio) vol. ill. p. 421. 40 VERAZZANO. to the vessel, removed to ?, little distance to show that he was at liberty to return to his friends. This he did by swimming to the ship's boat, whieh Jiad been put out to receive him, followed by the kind gestures of the savages, who gazed after him till ihey saw him safe among his friends. The spot where Verazzano found this amiable people is con- jectured by Forster to have been somewhere between New Jersey and Staaten Island, P'rom this the Florentine sailed onward, observing the coast trending to the northward, and after a run of fifty leagues came to anciior off a delightful coun- try covered with the finest forests. The trees, al- though equally luxuriant, did not emit the same per- fume as those before seen ; but the region was rich, covered with grass, and thickly peopled, although the natives appeared more timid than the last, and avoided all intercourse. The sailors, however, dis- <'overed and seized a family who had concealed themselves in the underwood, consisting of an old woman, a young girl of a tall and handsome figure, and six children. The two younger of the little ones were squatted on the shoulders of the old wo- man, and another child hung behind her back, whilst the girl was similarly loaded. On being approached both the females shrieked loudly ; l)ut, having succeeded in pacifying them, the sailors understood, by their signs, that all the men had escaped to the woods on the appearance of the ships. Much persuasion was now used to induce them to go on board j but although the elderly lady showed symptoms of acquiescence, and eagerly ate the food which was offered her, no entreaties could soften the obstinacy and rage of the younger. She uttered VERAZZANO. 47 e to show s friends, •at, Mlii(;li od bv tlie after him Tlie spot le is con- ■i between observin^f Iter a run tful coun- treeSj al- sanie per- was rich, althougli last, and ever, dis- concealed of an old no figure, the little L' old wo- ler back, Jn being lly; but, le sailors men had the ships. lem to go showed the food often the 3 uttered piercinij cries, cast the meat indignantly on the ground, and rendered the task of dragging her through tile thick woods so tedious and distressing, tiiat thev were obliged to desist and leave her, only carrying with tlieni a litthi boy, who could make no resistance.' The people of this country possessed fairer complexions than those whom they had just left, aiul were clad with large leaves sewed together with threads of wild hemp. Their common food was pulse, but they subsisted also by fishing, and were very expert in catching birds with gins. Their bows wer(3 made of hard wood, their arrows of canes head(^d with fish-bone, and their boats constructed of one large tree hollowed by fire, for they appeared to have no instruments of iron or other metal. Wild vines crept up the trunks of the trees, hanging in rich festoons from th!> branches, and the l)anks [uid mea- dows were covered with roses, lilies, violets, and many sorts of herbs difierent from those of Europe, yielding a fresh and delightful fragrance. Verazzano now proceeded KM) leagues farther, to a sheltered and beautiful bay surrounded by gent- ly rising hills, and discovered a large river, which from its depth seemed navigable to a considerable dis- tance. Fearful, however, of any accident, they as- cended it in boats ; and the voyage conducted them through a country so full of sweetness and attraction that thev left it with much regret. t Prosecutintj their discoveries fifty leagues eastward, they reached an- other island of a triangular shape, covered with rich wood, and rising into gentle liills, which reminded them of Rhodes both in its form and general aspect. A contrary wind, however, rendered it impossible to llcinui.sio, vol. iii. p. 421. t Ibid. 48 VKRAZZANO. land, and pursuing their course about fifteen leagues farther along the coast, they found a port where there was an excellent anchorage. Here they were soon visited by the natives, who came in a squadron of twenty boats, and at first cautiously kept at the dis- tance of fifty paces. Observing, however, the friend- ly gestures of the strangers, they ventured nearer, and when the French threw them bells, mirrors, and other trinkets, they raised a loud and simultane- ous shout expressive of joy and securit}^, no longer hesitating to row their boats to the ship's side and come aboard. They are described by Verazzano, in his account of the voyage sent to Francis I., as the finest and handsomest race, and the most civi- lized in their manners, of any he had yet met in America. Their colour was fairer than that of the more southern people, and in the symmetry of their forms, and the simplicity and gracefulness of their attitudes, they almost vied with the antique. They soon became exceedingly friendly and intimate, and conducted the French into the interior of the coun- try, which they found variegated with wood, and more delightful than can be easily described. Adapt- ed for every sort of cultivation, whether of corn, vines, or olives, it was interspersed with plains of twenty-five or thirty leagues in length, open and unencumbered with trees, and of such fertility, that whatever fruit might be sown, was certain to pro- duce a rich nd abundant return. They afterwards entered the \^oods, which were of great size, and so thick that a large army mi,9 '^ ve been concealed in them. The trees consisted . f oa s and cypresses, be- sides other species unknown to Europe. They found also apples, parsley, plums, and filberts, and many other kinds of fruit different from those of Italy. vp:r^vzzano. 49 n leagues liere there ivere soon nadron of i the dis- lie friend- L^arer, and rorSj and imultane- no longer side and erazzano, leis I., as nost civi- "t met in lat of the T of their s of their lie. They niatej and the coun- ood, and Adapt- of corn, plains of open and ility, that n to pro- fterwards le, and so icealed in esses^ be- ley found nd many of Italy. They saw likewise many animals, such as harts, roes, wolves, and stags, which the natives caught with snares, and destroyed with bows and arrows, their principal weapons of offence. The arrows were niaih' with ^Mvat neatness, and at the point instead of iron they inserted flints, jaspers, hard marhk^ and other kinds of cut stones. These they also made usd in ol)S(!urity. Ilakliiyt allirms that he performed tliree voyages to Nortli Ameriea, and gave a map of tlie coast to Henry VIII. The bio- graplier of Cahot asserts, tliat lie was tlie " Pied- montese ])ilot" wlio wes slain on the coast of Ame- rica in ir)27, ' not aware that A^erazzano was a Flo- rentine and alive in \i)'^7 ; and l^amusio could not ascertain the particulars of his last expedition, or even discover in what year it took ])]ace. All that is cer- tainly known is, that it proved fatal to this great navigator. Having landed incautiously upon the American coast, he and his party were surrounded and cut to pieces by the savages ; after which they barbarously devoured them in the sight of their com- panions. t The death of Vcrazzano appears to have thrown * Memoir of Cabot, p. 2715. -)- Such is tlu> aocoiiiit of Hannisio in his Discourse upon New France, vol. iii. p. 417. But Cardenas, in a work entitled " Ensajn ('ronologico j)ara la Ilistoria de la Florida," (n. H), has committed an eiTor sinidar to that of the writer of Cahot s life. He believes that Verazzano was the same as .Juan the Florentine, a pirate in the service of France, who was taken by the Spaniards in 1524, and hanji^ed." The evidence which overturns the theories of both these authors is to be found in a letter of Annibal Caro, quoted by Tiral)osclii, Storia della Letteratura Ital., vol. vii. part i. mn 2Hl,2f)2, from which it apjjears that Verazzano was alive in \i'uy. Lettere Familiari del. Comm. Annibal Caro, vol. i. p. 11. In his great work, Tiraboschi has collected all that is known rcg'ardinj^ the life of this eminen* discoverer; but this all is little or nothing'. He was born about the year 14}!r) ; his father was Pierandrea Verazzano, a noble Florentiiu', his nu)ther Fiametta Capelli. Of his youth, and for what reasons lu' entered into the service of Francis I., nothing is known. The only pid)lished work of Verazzano is the narrative in Ramusio, addressed to Francis I., written with much simplicity and elegance. But in the Strozzi Library at Florence is preserved a manuscript, in which he is said to give, with great minuteness, a descripticm of all the countries which he had visited during his voyage, and from which, says Tiiaboschi, we derive the intelligence that he had formed the design of attempting a j)assage through these seas to the Flast Indies. It is nnich to be desired that some Italian scholar would favour the world with the publication of this MS. of Verazzano. CARTIKR. 53 is lii story 3 that he rioa, and The bio- ? "Pied- of Ame- as a Flo- •ould not n, or even lat is cer- liis great upon tlie rrounded lich thev heir com- e tlirown upon New ed " Ensajo ? committed He believes a pirate in ids in 1524, lies of both 0, (juoted by |)i).2Hl,2H2, ?: Lettere ^rcat work, ' life of thiij le was born ano, a noble and for what ig- is known, in Ramusio, lid elegance. manuHcri[)t, ["script ion of ^e, and from had formed to the East holar would razzano. i a damp over the farther prosecution of discovery by tlie court of France ; but at lengtli, after an inter- val of ten years, Jaccjues Cartier, an enterprising and able mariner of 8t 31alo, was chosen by the Sieur de Melleraye, Vice-Admiral of France, to conduct a voyage to Newfoundland, which, since its discovery by Cabot, liad been seldom visited, and was imperfectly known. Cartier departed from St INIalo on tlie 20th of April la.'U, with two ships, each of 00 tons burden, and having on board a well-appointed crew of sixty-one men." The voyage appears to have been limited to a survey of the northern coast of Newfoundland, of which he gives a minute description, dwelling particularly on the zoological features of the country. He found the land in most parts extremely wild and barren, '' in so much that he did not see a cartload of iiood earth ; and the inhabitants were of stout make, but wild and unruly." They wore their hair tied on the top like a bunch of hay, fixed with a wooden bod- kin, and ornamented with birds' feathers. Like their companions whom Cabot had described, they were clothed in beasts' skins, and ornamented their bo- dies by painting them with roan. colours. They paddled about in boats made of the bark of birch- trees, in vv^hich they carried on a constant trade of fishing, and caught great numbers of seals. After having almost circumnavigated Newfoundland, Car- tier stood in towards the continent, and anchored in a bay which, from the extreme heat, was deno- minated Baye du Chaleur. The description of the inhabitants of this spot is striking and interesting. '' Taking our way," says he, *' along the coast, we • Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 435. 54 CARTIER. came in sight of the savages, who stood on tlie borders of a lake in the low grounds, where they had lighted their fires, which raised a great smoke. We went towards them, and found that an arm of the sea ran into the lake, into whieh we pushed with our boats. Upon this the savages approached in one of their little barks, bringing along with them pieces of roast- ed seals, which they placed upon wooden boards, and afterwards retired, making signs that this was in- tended as a present for us. We immediately put two men ashore, with liatchets, knives, garlands for the head, and such like wares. On seeing these articles they appeared mucli delighted, and crowded to the bank where we were, paddling their barks, and bringing skins and other articles, which they meant to exchange for our merchandise. Their number, including men, women, and children, was upwards of 300. Some of the women, who would not ven- ture nearer, stood up to the knees in water, sing- ing and dancing. Others, wiio had passed over, came to us with great familiarity, rubbing our arms with their hands, which they afterwards lifted up to heaven, singing all the while and making signs of joy ; such at last was their friendliness and security, that they bartered away every thing they had, and stood beside us quite naked ; for they scrupled not to give us all that was on them, and indeed their whole wardrobe was not much to speak of. It was evident that this people might be without difficulty converted to our faith. They migrate from place to place, and subsist themselves by fishing. Their country is warmer than Spain, and as beautiful as can be imagined, — level, and covered even in the smallest spots with trees, and this although the soil CARTIER. 55 le borders id lighted V\^e went e sea ran ur boats. of their ; of roast- irds, and was in- j put two Is for the e articles d to the rks, and iy meant number, upwards not ven- er, sing- ed over, )ur arms ed up to signs of lecurity, lad, and pled not ^d their It was ifficulty m place Their itiful as in the the soil is sandv. It is full also of wild corn, which hath an ear similar to rye. We saw many !>eautiful nu>adows full of rich grass, and lakes where there were j)lenty of salmon. The savages called a hatchet cochi, and a knife bacon."* All the navigators who had hither- to visited Newfoundland, on reaching its northern- most point, appear to have sailed across the Straits of Belleisle to Cape Charles upon the coast of La- brador; but the course of Cartier led him through the straits into the great Gulf of St Lawrence, now for the first time visited by any European. His pre- decessor, Verazzano, after reaching the shore of the Bay of Fundy, had probably sailed along the coast of Nova ►')COtia until he reached Cape Breton. Car- tier, on tiic contrary, saw before him a wide and ex- tensive field of discovery to the west, which he pur- sued for some time, directing his course along the coast of the Bay of St Lawrence ; but, as the season was far advanced and the weather became precari- ous, he determined to reserve a more complete exa- mination of this unknown country for a second voy- age, and returned safely to France, coming to an- chor in the port of St Malo upon the 5th of Sep- tember 1534.t Having been received with favour and distinc- tion, Cartier, after a short interval, embarked upon a second voyage. His squadron consisted of three ships, — the Great Hermina, of which Cartier him- self was master, being a vessel of about 120 tons, the Little Hermina of 60 tons, and the Hermiril- lon of 40 tons burden. The crews solemnly pre- pared themselves for their voyage by confession and • Raniusio, vol. iii. p. 438. t Ibid. p. 440. ""«»"««»lwia||^ 56 CARTIERS SECOND VOYAGE. the reception of the sacrament ; after wliich tliey en- tered in a body into the elioir of the cathedral, and stood before the l)ishop, who was clothed in his cano- nicals, and devoutly ^^ave them his benediction. Havin^^ fulfilled these rites, the fleet weijfhed anchor on the loth of IMay 1535, and the admiral steered direct for Newfoundland. His ships, however, were soon after separated in a storm, and did not agaiii join company till the2()th of June; after which they proceeded to explore the large gulf which he liad al- ready enten^d. '' It was," to use the words of the na- vigator himself, '■' a very fair gulf, full of islands, pass- ages, and entrances to what wind soever you pleased to bend, having a great island like a cape of land stretching somewhat farther forth than the others." This island is evidently that named by the English Anticosti, being merely a corruption of Natiscotec, the appellation at this day given it by the natives. To the channel between it and the opposite coast of Labrador, Cartier gave the name of St Lawrence, which has since been extended to the whole gulf. On reaching the eastern point of the island of Anticosti, the Frencli, who had along with them two of the natives of the country, whom they had induced in their former voyage to accompany them to France, requested their advice as to their far- ther progress. The savages stated, that the gulf in which they now lay gradually contracted its dimensions till it terminated in the mouth of a mighty river named Hochelaga, flowing from a vast distance in the interior of a great continent. That two days' sail above Anticosti would bring them to the kingdom of Saguenay, beyond which, along the bank of the same river, was a populous territory, si- CAIITIKUS SECOND VOVAGK. 57 tliey en- (Iral, and liis rano- 1 edict ion. 'd anchor il steert'd vcr, were lot agaiii liicli they e liad al- )f tile na- ids, pass- u j)leased i of land ' otliers." ' English atiscotec, natives. e coast of awrence, e gulf. sland of til them they Iiad ny them leir far- tlie gulf icted its ith of a m a vast . That them to long the tory, si- tuated at its highest known point, where the stream was only navigable by small boats. Having receiv- ed this information, Cartier sailed onwards, explor- ing both sides of the river, and o{)ening a communis cation with the inhabitants by means of the natives whom he carried along with him. The good effects of this arraiiijement were soon seen ; for at first they fled in great alarm upon the approach of any of the ships' crews ; but on hearing the interpreters cry out that they were Taignoagny and Domagaia, — names which seemed to inspire immediate ideas of friendliness and confidence, — they suddenly turned back ; after which they began to dance and rejoice, running away with great speed, and soon returning with eels, fishes, grain, and musk-melons, which they cast into the boats with gestures expressive of much kindness and courtesy." This soon led to a more intimate and iiiti resting intercourse ; and on the fol- lowing day the lord of the country, who was named Donnaconna, made a formal visit to the admiral's ship, accomi)aiiied by twelve boats, in which were a great multitude of his subjects. On approaching tlie vessel he ordered ten of these boats to ship their paddles and remain stationary, while he himself, with the other two boats, and attended by a suite of sixteen of his subjects, advanced over against the smallest of the French ships, and standing up, com- menced a long oration, throwing his body into a va- riety of strange and uncouth postures, which were afterwards discovered to be signs indicating glad- ness and security. Donnaconna now came aboard the admiral's ship, and an enthusiastic interview took place between him and the two savages who * Kamusio, vol. iii. p. 441. .58 CAUTIKU S SKCONI) VOVAGK. h.ad been in France.* They rcroiintcd with much gcsticuhition the extraordinary tilings which they liad seen in tliat country, dwellint,^ on the kind en- tertainment they had experienced, and after many expressive looks of won(U'r and gratituch', the king entreated tlie admiral to stretch out his arm, which he kissed with d(;votion, laying it fondly upon his neck, and showing, hy gestures which could not l)e mistaken, that he wished to make much of him. Cartier, anxious to evinc(? an equal confidence, en- tered Donnaconna's boat, carrying with him a col- lation of bread and wine^ with which the monarch w^as much pleased, and the French, returning to their ships, ascended the river ten leagues, till they arrived at a village where this friendly potentate usually resided, and which was named Stadacona. " It was," according to the original account of Car- tier, '' as goodly a plot of ground a.> possibly might be seen, very frui' ^lI, and covered with noble trees similar to those of France, such as oaks, elms, ashes, wahmt-tr- es, mj (de-trees, citrons, vines, and white thorns which brought forth fruit like dam- sons, and beneath these woods grew as good hemp as any in France, without its being either planted or cultivated by man's labour."t From this time the intercourse between the French and Donnaconna continued .vith every ex- pression of friendliness ; but on hearin;L: *hat the admiral had determined to go ^o Jlocheiagit. a sud- den jealousy appijared to seize him lest he and his people shuii'd be deprived of the advantages of an uninterrupted communication with the white • Rannisio, vol. iii. p. 443. Seconda Relatione di Jacques Cartier. •j- Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 2lH. cartikr's skcond voyaok. r>9 v\i\\ much Iiicli they kind t'n- tt(T many , tlie king •m, wliich upon liis uld not Ik? h of him. h'lice, cn- hini fi col- ' monarch urnin^^ to i, till they potentate Stadacona. nt of Car- l)ly might loble trees iks, elms, v'ines^ and like dam- l hemp as planted or ween the every ex- *hut the [jii. a sud- le and his ntages of he white iiies Cartier. Strangers, and every possible device was put in exe- cution to deter them from their |)urp()se. One of these stratagems was so ludicrous that we may be permftted to give Cartier's account of it in an abridgment of the quaint translation of Ilakluyt: " The next day, being the UUli of September, these meii still erideuvoured to seek all means possible to hinder us from going to Ilochelaga, and for this purpose devised a pretty guile : They went and dressed three men like devils, being wrapped in dogs' skins, white and black, with their faces besmeared as i)lack as a coal, and horns upon their heads more than a yard long." These figures they caused to be secretly put into one of the boats, which they con- cealed within a winding of tlu; wooded bay, waiting patiently for the tide. When the proper moment had arrived, a multitude of the l)()ats, crowded with natives and conducted by Taignaogny, sud- denly vas end<'(', Cartier and liis crew espied Taigna( yiy and Domafjaia coming towards them, lioldiiit( their liands joined togetlier, carrying their liats uiukr their upper gar- ment, showing a great admiration;, and looking up to lieaven. Upon tliis tlie captain hearing tiiem, and seeing their gestures and ceremonies, asked them wliat they ailed, and what was happened or chanced anew, to which tliey answered that there were very ill tidings befallen, saying in their l^roken French, ' Nenni est il bon,' that is to say, it was not good. Our captain asked them again what it was, and tlien they answered that their god Cudraigny had spoken in Ilochelaga, and that he had sent those three devils to show unto tliem that there was so much ice and snow^ in that country that whosoever w^ent there should die; which words when the Frendi heard they 'aughed and mocked them, say- ing that their god Cudraigny was ])ut a fool and a noddie, for he knew not what he said or did. They Imde them also carry their compliments to his mes- sengers, and inform them that the god whom they served would defend them from all cold if they would only believe in him."- Having thus failed in tlie object intended to be gained by this extraordinary masquerade, the savages offered no farther opposition, and the French proceed- ed in their pinnace and two boats up the river St Law- rence towards Hochelaga. They found the country on both sides extremely rich and l)eautifully varied, covered with fine wood, and abounding in vines^ though the grapes, from want of cultivation, were neither so large nor so sweet as those of France. The Haklujtj Tol. iii. p. 218; a'ld Ilanmsio, vol. iii. p. 444. r'^**^*»pH CARTIER S SECOND VOYAGE. 61 I, Cartier Doma^aia (Is joined ipper gar- [}oking up thein, and keel them »r chanced were very 1 Frencli, not good, was, and aigny liad >ent those ere was so vvliosoever when the liem, say- bol and a d. They ► liis mes- hom they ley would ded to be he savages 1 proceed- 3rStLaw- le country ly varied^ in vines^ ion, were mce. The p. 444. prevalent trees were tlie same as in Europe, — oaks, elnis, wahuit, cedar,fir, ash,l)OX,and wiMow; and the /latives on eacli side of tlie river, who aj)peare(l to ex- ercise principally the trade of fishermen, entered into an intercourse with the strarjrers as readilv and kind- Iv as if thev had heen tlu'ir own countrymen. One of the lords of the country did not scruple after a short acquaintance to make a present to ('artier of two of his children, one of whom, a little ',rirl of seven or eiirht years old, he carried away with him, whilst he returned the other, a boy, who was con- siden'd too young to travel. 'V\u'y saw great variety of hirds, almost all of which were the same as those of Europe. Cranes, swans, geese, ducks, j)lieasants, partridges, thrushes, hlackhirds, turtles, finches, red- breasts, niiihtiniiales, and sparrows of divers kinds, were ohserved, besides manv other hirds. Bv this time the river had become narrow, and in some j)laces dangerous in its navigation owing to the rapids; and the French, who had still three days' sail- ing before them, left their pinnace and took to their boats, in which, after a prosperous passage, they reached the city of iiochelaga. It consisted of about fifty houses, built in the midst of large and fair corn-fields near a great mountain, which the French called ]Mont Royale, corrupted by time into IMont- real, which name the place still retains; whilst the original American designation of Iiochelaga lias been long since forgotten. The city, according to Cartier's description, was round, compassed about with tim- ber, and with three courses of ramparts, one within another, framed like a sharp spire, but laid across above. The enclosure which surrounded the town was in height about two roods, having but one gate, ,M4*!W»%;*|k, , 62 TOWN OF IIOCIIELAGA. which was slmt witli piles, stakes^ and ])ars. Over it, and also in various parts of tlie wall, were places to run along, and ladders to get up, with maga- zines or heaps of stones for its defence. The houses were entirely of wood, with roofs of bark very arti- ficially joined together. Each liouse had a court in the midst of it, and consisted of many rooms, wdiilst the family lighted their fire in the centre of the court, and during the day all lived in common; at night the husbands, wives, and children, retired to their several chambers. At the top of tlu.' house were garners where they kept their corn, which was something like the millet of Brazil, and called by them carracony. They had also stores of pease and beans, with musk-melons and great cucumbers. Many large butts were observed in their houses, in which they preserved their dried fish ; })ut this, as well as all their other victuals, they dressed and ate without salt. They slept upon beds of bark spread on the ground, with coverings of skins similar to those of which their clothes were made.* Tlie reception of the French by the inhabitants of Hochelaga was in a high degree friendly ; and indeed such was the extent of their credulity and admiration, that they considered the strangers as possessed of miraculous power, and their com- mander a divine person. This was shown by their bringing their king, Agonhanna, an infirm para- lytic about fiftj years of age, to be touched, and, as they trusted, cured by the admiral, earnestly im- portuning him by expressive gestures to rub his arms and legs ; after which the savage monarch took the wreath or crown which he wore upon his head and • Ramiisio, vol. iii. p. 445 ; and Hakluyt, vol. iii. pp. 220, 221. CAKTIER S SP:C0ND VOYAGK. 63 s. Over re places h maga- le liouses ^ery arti- , court in is, whilst ;lie court, at night to their use were liich was called by )ease and icunibers. louseSj in [t this, as i and ate V spread milar to •K labitants ly; and ility and iiigers as ir com- hy their ni para- , and, as stly im- his arms took the lead and K20, 221. gave it to Cartier. Soon after this they brought with tliem all the diseased and aged folks whom they could coilcct, and besought him to heal them; on which occasion his conduct appears to Iiave been that of a man of sincere piety. He neither arro- gated to Jiitnself miraculous powers, nor did he al- together refuse their earnest rec^uest ; but read, from the Gospel of St John, the passion of our Sa- viour, and praying that the Lord would be pleased to open the hearts of these forlorn pagans, and teach tliem to know the truth, he laid his hands upon them, and making the sign of the Cross, left the issue of their being healed or not in the hand of their Creator.* On inquiring into their religious tenets, he found that they were buried in tlie deepest ignorance and superstition, unacquainted w'ith the existence of the only true God, and substituting in his place a capricious and horrid being of their own imaginations, named Cudraigny. They affirmed that he often spoke to them, and told them what kind of weather they were to have ; but, if angry, w^ould punish them by throwing dust in their eyes. They had a strange and confused idea regarding the immortality of tliv soul, believing that after death thev went to the stars, and descended IDlc these bright sparks by degrees to the horizon, where they wandered about in delicious green fields, which were full of the most precious trees, and profusely sown with fruits and flowers. Cartier explained as well as he could the folly of such a creed, persuaded them that Cudraigny was no god but a devil, and at his departure promised to return again, and bring * Ilamusio, vol. iii. p. 448. -^m 64 cartier's second voyage. some good and lioly men, ^vllo would instruct them in tlie knowledge of the true and only God, and baptize them in the name of his Son, with which tliey declared themselves well pleased."' "^ There groweth liere," says C'artier, " a certain kind of herb, of which during the summer they collect a great quantity for winter consumption, esteeming it much, and only permitting men to use it, in the following manner: It is first dried in the sun; after which they wear it about their necks, wrapped in a little skin made in the shape of a bag, along witli a hollow piece of stone or of wood formed like a pipe ; after this they bruise it into a powder, which is put into one of the ends of the said cornet or pipe, and laying a coal of fire upon it at the other end, they suck so long that they fill their bodies full of smoke till it comes out of their mouth and nostrils, even as out of the tunnel of a chimney. They say that this keeps them warm and in health, and never go without some of it about them." It is not impos- sible that the reader, perplexed by this laboriously minute description, may have failed to recognise in it the first acquaintance made by the French with the salubrious and far-famed plant of tobacco.t Not long after this the ships' crews were seized with a loathsome and dreadful disease, caught, as they supposed, from the natives, wiiich carried off twenty-five men, reducing the survivors to a state of pitiable weakness and suffering. The malady was then new to Europeans ; but the symptoms de- tailed by Cartier, — swollen legs, extreme debility, putrified gums, and discoloration of the skin and a * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 449. 7 t Ibid. CARTIER S SECOND VOYAGE. UO ruct them God, and til wliich '' There 1 kind of ' collect a eeming it it, in the the sun; , wrapped )ag, along rmed like % powder, aid cornet t the other bodies full >d nostrils, They say and never lot impos- aboriously cognise in nch with icco.t ere seized aught, as arried off to a state malady ptoms de- debility, skin and e blood, leave no doubt that this '' strange, unknown," and cruel pestilence, was the scurvy, since so fatally familiar to the European mariner. Providentially, hovv'cvcr, they discovered from the savages a cure in the decoction of the leaves and bark of a species of tree called in their language hannida, and since well known as the North American white pine. '' This medicine," says Cartier, " worked so well, that if all the physicians of JMontpelier and Louvain had been there with all the drugs of Alexandria, they would not have done so much in one year as that tree did in six days."'- The French began now to make preparations for their departure ; bu^, a dishonourable plot was first carried into execution, by which they succeeded in seizing Donnaconna, wiiose usefulness and liberality to them during their residence in Canada merited a more generous return. The monarch, however, with the exception of a slight personal restraint to prevent escape, was treated with kindness, and soon became reconciled to his journey to Europe, although his subjects, inconsolable for his loss, came nightly howling like wolves about the ships, till assured he was in safety. Along with Donna- conna were secured Taignaogny and Domagaia, who had already been in France ; and, after a prosperous voyage, the French ships arrived at St Malo on the (Jtli July 1536.t It might have been expect- ed that, after a discovery of such magnitude and importance, immediate measures would have been adopted to appropriate and colonize this fertile, po- pulous, and extensive country. This seemed the Uaniusio, vul. iii. p. 4ol. ■\- Ibid. p. io'ti. D 66 ROBERVAL. more likely, as the arrival of Cartier and the in- troduction of the Indian king at court created an extraordinary sensation ; yet notwithstanding the manifest advantages, both commercial and political, likely to result from a settlement in Canada, the weak and shallow prejudice which at this time pre- vailed in most of the nations of Europe, that no countries were valuable except such as produced gold and silver, threw a damp over the project, and for nearly four years the French monarch would listen to no proposals for the establishment of a cx)- lony. Private adventure at length came forward to a^'- complish that which had been neglected by royal munificence, and the Sieur de Roberval, a noble- man of Picardy, requested permission of Francis I. to pursue the discovery, and attempt to form a set- tlement in the country. This the king readily grant- ed ; and as Roberval was opulent, the preparations were made on a great scale. He was created by Francis, on the 15th January 1540, Lord of Norim- bega, Lieutenant-General and Viceroy in Canada, Hochelaga, Saguenay, Newfoundland, Belleisle, Carpon, Labrador, the Great Bay, and Baccalaos, — empty and ridiculous titles, which, if merited by any one, ought to have been conferred upon Cartier. This eminent navigator, however, was only permit- ted to accepi a subordinate command ; and as Ro- berval, who wished to appear with splendour in his new dominions, was detained in fitting out two vessels which were liis own property, Cartier was ordered to sail before him with the five ships al- ready prepared. He accordingly did so; but Don- naconna, the Canadian king, had died in France, ROBERVAL. (37 d the in- reated an iding tlic political, iiada, the time pre- , that no produced ojectj and eh would [t of a co- ird to a^'- by royal a noble- Francis I. arm a set- lily grant- eparations reated by of Norim- 1 Canada, Belleisle, ccalaos, — lerited by )n Cartier. y permit- nd as Ro- our in liis out two irtier was ships al- but Don- u France. and the savafres^ justly incensed at the breach of laith by which they lost their sovereign, received the French with an altered countenance, devising conspiracies against them, that soon led to acts of open hostility. The French now built for their defence, near the present site of Quebec, a fort, which they named Charlesbourg, being the first Kuropean settlement formed in that part of Ame- rica. After a long interval Roberval arrived at Newfoundland ; but a jealousy had broken out be- tween him and Cartier, who took the first oppor- tunity during the night to part from his principal, and return with his squadron to France. This of course gave a death-blow to the whole undertak- ing, for Roberval was nothing without Cartier ; and, after some unsuccessful attenipts to discover a passage to the East Indies, he abandoned the en- terprise, and returned to his native country. The passion for adventure, however, again seized him in ]549, and he and his brother, one of the bravest men of his time, set sail on a voyage of discovery ; but they shared the fate of Verazzano and the Cor- tereals, being never again heard of. These disas- ters effect ually checked the enthusiasm of France, whilst in England, the country to whose enterprise we have seen Europe indebted for her first acquaint- ance with the American continent, the spirit of ma- ritime discovery appearea for some years almost to- tally extinct. The plan of this historical disquisition now leads us to the examination of some remarkable enter- prises of the Spaniards for the extension of their immense dominions in the New World, along the more northern coasts of America. The bold and (JH COHTKS. comprehensive mind of Cortes, tlie conqueror of Mexico, not content witli the acquisition of that noble empire, formed the most extensive projects of discovery. Alarmed at the attempts of the English to discover a northern passage to China and Cathay, he resolved to make a careful survey of the whole coast, extending from the river Panuco in Mexico to Florida, and thence northwards to the Baccalaos, for the purpose of ascertaining whether there might not exist in that quarter a communication with the DisrOVKIlY OF CALIFOIIMA. ()!> ^'''r' queror of 1 of that )rojects of 3 English I Cathay, ihe wlioU' Mexico to 5accalaos, Te might witli tlie South Sea. At the same time a squadron in tlie Pacific was to sail along the western coast of America, and hy these simultaneous researches he trusted to find a strait affording a far shorter and <'asier route to India and the IMoluccas, and con- necting together the vast dominions of the Spanish crown.* Charles V., to whom these proposals were presented, although willing to encourage every scheme for the extension of his power, ungene- rously threw upon their author the whole expense of the undertaking; in consequence of which, the idea of the voyage for the discovery of a north-west passage was ahandoned, and the magnificent designs for the conquest of many great and opulent king- doms sunk at last into the equipment of two brigan- tineson the coast of the South Sea, the command of which was intrusted to Diego de Ilurtado. This expedition ended calamitously in a mutiny of one of the crews, who brought back their ship to Xalisco: the fate of Hurtado was still more unfortunate, for, although he continued his voyage, neither he nor any of his crew were ever more heard of. A second expedition, intrusted by Cortes to two Spanish cap- tains, Grijalva and IMendoza, was scarcely more fortunate: The vessels were separated on the first night of their voyage, and never again joined com- pany. Grijalva penetrated to an island which he denominated Santa Tome, supposed to have been situated near the northern point of California, after which he returned to Tehuantepec; whilst IMendoza, by his haughty and tyrannical temper, having ren- dered himself odious to his crew, was murdered by * Ramusio, vol. iii. p. 21)5. Memoir of Cabot, p. 2()I3. ■■»P**n«^' 70 ULLOA. the pilot, Ximenes, who assumed the command. Afraid of returning to ]\Iexico, the traitor sailed northward, and discovered the coast of California, where he was soon after attacked and slain, along with twenty of his crew, by the savage natives." The survivors, however, brought the vessel back to Chianietta, with the tempting report that the coast abounded in pearls. Cortes now set out him- self with a squadron of three ships; and, although his vessels were dreadfully shattered in a storm, pursued his voyage with his accustomed energy, till compelled to return by a summons from iMexico, wJiere the breaking out of serious disturbances re- quired his immediate presence. He intrusted, how- ever, the p'*oseCi.aon of the voyage to Francisco de Ulloa, and this enterprising navigator, though at first obliged by want of provisions to return to Mexico, re-victualled his ships, and again set sail. The pious solemnity with wliich these ancient mariners were accustomed to regard their proeeed- ings is strikingly sliown by the first sentence of his journal : — " We embarked,'* says he, " in the Iia- ven of Acapulco, on the {Jth of July, in the year of our Lord 1539, calling upon Almighty God to guide us with liis holy hand to those places where he might be served, and his holy faith advanced ; and we sailed from the said port by the coast of Saca- tula and IMotin, which is sweet and pleasant, owing to the abundance of trees that grow tht/e, and the rivers which pass through these countries, for which we often thanked God, their Creator."t A voyage * ILikluvt, vol. iii. p. 3f)4 ; and Raniiisio, Viag-gi, vol. iii. p. 3.55. •^ Kainu.sio, vol. iii. }). HIJ'J. Murray's North Anierita, vol. ii. p. (58. .^^SBWlfe.Jp ULLOA. 71 ommand. tor sailf^l 'aliforiiiH, ill, along tives."' 'sscl back tliat tlu- out him- although a storm, lergy, tilJ jMexico, taiu'es re- ed, Iiow- Franciseo ', tliougli to return again set ie ancient pro('<'ed- ice of his 1 the ha- le year of I to guide /here he 'ed; and of Saca- it, owing and the or which ^ voyage . iii. p. 3oo. ol. ii. p. (58. of twenty days brought the squadron to the harlwur of Colinia, frcin which tliey set out on tlie 23d of August, and after encountering a tempest, in which their ships were se\ rrely sluittered, tliey stood across the Gulf of California, and came to the mouth of the river St Peter and St Paul. On both sides of it were rich and extensive plains, covered with beautiful trees in full leaf; and farther within the Ipjid exceeding high mountauis, clothed with wood, and affording a charming prospect ; after which, in a course of fifteen h ugues, they discovered two other rivers as great or greater than the Guadalquiver, the currents of whicii were so strong that they might be discerned three leagues off at sea. Ulloa spent a year in examining the coasts and havens on each side of the Gulf of California. In some places tlie Spaniards found the inhabitants of great stature,* armed with bows and arrows, speak- ing a language totally distinct from any thing they had hitherto heard in America, and admirably dex- terous in diving and swimming. On one occasion the crews, who had landed, were attacked with fierceness by two squadrons of Indians. These na- tives were as swift as wild-goats, exceedingly strong and active, and leaped from rock to rock, assaulting tlie Spaniards with their arrows and javelins, which broke and pierced their armour, and inflicted griev- ous wounds. It is well known that this nation had introduced ilie savage practice of employing bloodhounds in their wars against the Mexicans, and Ulloa now used some of these ferocious animals The Indians, however, discharged a shower of ar- * Ramusio, voL iii. p. ^2. ^•^NSiHilSK- 7-2 ITLLOA. rows against them, " l>y whicli," says Ulloa, " H« - rocillo, our niastifl', vvlio should have assisted us, was jrricvously wounded by three arrows, so that w* eould l»y no entreaty g<'t him to h}ave us ; the do" was struck in the first assault of the Indians, aft. Jiol. Ilukluyt, vol. iii. p. 419. -|- llaklu^t, vol. iii. p. 424. 74 ALARCnON. doza to tlie command of a lar^e force, for the re- duction of tlie new territory, wliilst, to co-operate with tliis land expedition, a naval armament was fitted out, of which Ferdinand de Alarchon was ap- pointed admiral, with orders to explore the Gulf of California. As far as conquest was intended, these mighty preparations conducted to no permanent re- sults ; but the voyage of Alarchon led to some import- ant discoveries. After a survey of the lower part of the coast of tlie gulf, he penetrated with much difficulty and hazard to the bottom of the bay, where he found a mighty river, flowing with so furious a current that they could hardly sail against it.* This was evidently the noble river now known by the name of the Colorado, which has its rise in the great mountain-range near the sources of the Rio Bravo del Norte, and after a course of 900 miles falls into the head of the Gulf of California. Alar- chon determined to explore it; and taking with him two boats, with twenty men and some small pieces of artillery, he ascended to an Indian viMage, the inhabitants of which, by violent and furious gestures, dissuaded the Spaniards from landing. The party of natives, at first small, soon increasoria. After a surv(>v of the rivers Irtiscli, Ol), Kct, Jciicsei, Tun<,nisf'a, and Ilini, they wintered at liini, and, in the sj)rin(rof 172(5, proceeded down tlic river J^ena to JaJaitzk. The naval stores and |)art of llie provisions were now intrusted to Lieutenant Spani^her*:, who enil)arked on the Judunia, intend- iuL^ to sail from it into the IMaia, and then bv th* Aldan into the Lena. He was followed by Captain Beliriiifj, who proceeded by land with another part of the stores, whilst Lieutenant Tehirikow staid at Jakutzk, with the design of transport in^r the re- niaiiuh'r overland. The cause of this complicated division of labour was the impassable nature of the country between Jakutzk and Ochotzk, which is im- j;racticable for waggons in summer, or for sledg(s during winter. Such, indeed, were the difficulties of transjiorting these large bales of provisions, that it was the 3()th July 1727 before the whole busi- ness was completed. In the mean time a vessel had been built at Ochotzk, in which the naval stores v>'ere conveyed to Boischeretzkoi in Kamtschatka. From this they proceeded to Nischnei Kamtschat- koi Ostrog, where a boat was built similar to the packet-boats used in the Baltic. After the necessary articles were shipped. Captain Behring, determin- ing no longer to delay the most important part of his enterprise, set sail from the mouth of the river Kamtschatka on the 14th of July, steering north-east, and for the first time laying down a sur- vey of this remote and desolate coast. When thev readied the latitude of 64° 80', eight men of the wild tribe of the Tschuktschi pushed off" from the coast in a leathern canoe, called a baidar, formed of seal-bkins, and fearlessly approached the Russian BEIIRINCiS FIRST VOYAGK. a*', tlscli, Oh, intcTcd at down tlic J and part iicutcnaiit a, intcnd- icn bv the »y Captain otluT })art kow staid r]wn a siir- ^^lien thev en of tlio from the formed of e Russian ship. A eoinmunieation was immediately opened by means of a Korial interpreter; and, on I)eing in- vited, thev <'ame on board without liesitation. Hv tl)('St' natives Behrinij was informed tliat tlie eoast turned towards the west. On reaehinry called Serdze Kamen, the aeeuraey of this information was established, for the land was seen extendin<,f a great way in a western din'ction, — a eireumstanee from which Behring somewhat too hastilv concluded, that he had reached the extrem- cut northern |)oint of Asia. He was of opinion that thence the coast must run to the west, and there- fore no junction with America could take j)lace. Sa- tislied that he had now fulfilled his orders, he re- turned to the river Kamtschatka, and again took up his winter-quarters at Nischnei Kamtschatkoi Ostrog.* In this voyage it was conjectured by Behring and his ollicers, from the reports of the Kamtschadales, that in all probability another country must be si- tuated towards the east, at no great distance from Serdze Ka nen ; yet no immediate steps were taken either to complete the survey of the most northerly coasts of Ochozkoi, or to explore the undiscovered region immediately opposite the promontory. In the course of a campaign, however, against the fierce and independent nation of the Tschuktschi, Cap- tain Pawluizki penetrated oy the rivers Nboina, Bela, and Tcherna, to the borders of the Frozen Sea; and, after defeating the enemy in three bat- tles, passed in triumph to a promontory supposed to be the Tgchukotzkoi Noss. From this point he sent • Harris' Collection of Voyajres, vol. iL pp. 1020, 1021; Coxe's Russian Discoveries, pp. 23, 24, ii4. 84 PAWLUTZKI S KXPKDITIOX. part of his littN' army in canoes, wliilst lie himself coiKlucted the remaiiiiiiij division hy land round tlie promontory, takinj,M'are to march alonif the s<'acoast, and to communicate every evening witli his canoes. In tliis manner Pawlutzivi reached tlie promont()r\' which is conjectured to have ])een the fartliest limit of Behrinii's voyage, and theiK'e hy an inland route returned, on 21st Octoher 17•^^^ to Anadirsk, hav- inor advanced an important ste|) in ascertaininff the separation hotween America and the remote north- westerly coast of Asia. Althou^di the separation of the two continents had been thus far fixed, a wide field of discovery yet re- mained unexplored; and in 17^1, I3ehrinfj, Spang- berg, and Tchirikow, once more volunteered their services for this purpose. These offers were imme- diately accepted ; — the captain was promoted to the rank of a commander, the two lieutenants were mad<' captains, and instructions drawn up for the conduct of the expedition, in which it w as directed that the desti- nation of the voyages should be eastward to the con- tinent of America, and southward to Japan, whilst, at the same time, an endeavour was to be made for the discovery of that northern passage through the Frozen Sea which had been so repeatedly but unsuc- cessfully attempted by other European nations. The voyage to Japan, under the vommand of Captain Spangberg and Lieutenant Walton, was eminently successful ; and one of its material results was the <'orrection of a geographical error of considerable magnitude, by which that island had hitherto been placed under the same meridian as Kamtschatka instead of 11° more to the westward. The expedi- BKIIUIN(f S SK(()M) VOYAGE. «5 (' Inmsclf round tlio ' Sf'acoast, is canoes, onioiitorv • icst limit ind route rsk, hav- iniiiff the >te north- lents liad •y y('t re- T, Spang. Tcd their •e inime- ;ed to tlie ere niad<' onduetof the desti- ) the con- 1, whilst, made for ough the it unsuc- Dns. The Captain minently was the siderable ^rto been itschatka ? expedi- tion of nchrinj;, no less important and satisfactory, was destined to he fatal to its <'xeeilent ('oininander : After a \vint<'r spent in the harbour of Awatseha, or Petropalauska, on tiic west side of the ^reat j)eninsula of Kamtschatka, IJrlirini,' got his stores on board the two paeket-i»oats built at Oehot/k, expressly for the intended American discoveries. Tlu first of these, the St Peter, was tiiat in which the com- mander embarked ; the second, the St Paul, was intrusted to Captain Tcliirikow. Along with Jieh- riiig Went Lewis de Lisle de la Croyere, Professor of Astronomv, whilst Mv (ieor the sea at this |)!ace tiiey called St Elias ('Hi)e, as it was discoven'd on that saint's day ; whilst an- otl'.cr headland was denominated St Ilcrnioifenes: and between these lay a bay, in which, if it became necessary to take shelter, thev trusted thev would • • • find security. Two boats were now launched, in the first of which, Kytrof, the master of the licet, was sent to examine the bay, whilst Steller proceed- ed with the other to fetch water. Kytrof fouiid a « cx)nvenient anchorage; and on an adjacent island were a few empty huts formed of smooth boards, or- namented in some places with rude carving. \\'ith- in thr huts IIk'V |)icke(l up a small box of po])lar, a hollow earthen ball in which a stone rattled, conjec- tured to be a child's toy, and a whetstone on which it appeared that copju'r knives had been shar])ened.* Steller, on the other hand, near the spot where he landed, discovered a cellar in which was a store of red salmon, and a sweet herb dressed for food in the sanu' manner as in Kamtscliatka. Near them were rojH's, "lid various pieces of liousehold furniture and of domestic utensils. At a short distance he came to a place where the savages had recently dined, — beside which they found an arrow, and an instru- ment for j)rocuring lire exactly similar to that used for the same purpose in Kamtschatka. The sailors who fetched the fresh water liad found two fire-places with the aylies newly extinguished, and near them a parcel of hewn wood, with some smoked fishes like large car]). They observed also marks of human footsteps in the grass, but no natives were seen. In Coxe'.s Kiisisiaii iJiscuveries, pp. 42, 4;{. 90 I?H1IKIN(; AM) K HIHIKO^' case, however, they should return, some small [wv- seiits, such as it was conjectured mi<(ht l»e suited to their taste or their wants, were left in the huts. Those consisted of a j)iece of ^n'een <,dazed linen, two iron kettles, two knives, two iron Chinese tobacco- pipes, a pound of tobacco leaves, and twenty lar^^e ijlass beads. Steller, an enthusiastic naturalist, en- treated that he mij^dit have* tiie command of the small l)Oat and a few men, to conipU te a more accurate sur- vey of tliis new coast; but Behring, who was from his advanced age rather timid and over-cautious, put H decided negative upon th<'proj)osal ; and liis scien- tific companion, liaving climbed a steep rock to ob- tain a vie\v' of the adjacent country, found his |)n)- gress interrupted by an immediate order to come aboard. " On descending the mountain," says he in liis journal, *' whicli was overs|)read with a forest witliout any traces of a road, finding it impassabh', l reascended, looked mournfullv at the limits of mv progress, turned my eyes towards the continent which it was not in my power to explore, and ob- served at the distance of a few versts some sniok< ascending from a wooded eminence. * * v Again receiving a positive order to join the ship, J returned with my collection."* Having put to sea next day, the 21st of July, tliey found it impossible, according to their original inten- tion, to explore the coast as far as 65° north latitude, as it seemed to extend indefinitely to the south-west. It was studded with many small islands, the navi- gation through which, especially during the night, was dangerous and tedious. On tlie 30th of July, Coxe's Russian Discoveries, pj). 40, 41. TIIKIIl SKCONJ) VOVAfJE. 1)1 small |)r» '- (' suited to tlu' luits. linen, tNVo se toluuro- •enty lar^M' iralist, cii- li'tlu' small ciirati' sur- ) was from iitious, put I his scicii- rock to ol)- iid his |)ri)- T to conie ' savs he in ft; th a forest j{)assal)le, 1 nits of mv ft eoutineni re, and oh- ome smok« * * ** the ship, I July, tliey jinal inten- th latitude, ^outh-west. , the navi- \ the night, h of Julv. they discovered, in latitude .')()", an island which they called Tumannoi Ostrog, or Fo^'gy Island ; and soon after the scurvy l>roke out with the most virulent symj)tonis in the shij)'s crew; so that, in hopes of pn»- curin<( water, they ai^ain ran to the north, and soon discovered the continent, with a larark, which are delicacies with the Kamtschadales.' It was 'ivident he had never tasted ardent spirits or smoked tobacco till this moment ; and although every effort was made to sooth him and restore his con- fidence, by offering him needles, glass beads, an iron kettle, and other gifts, lie wjuld accept of no- thing, and made the most eager and imploring signs to be set on shore. In this it was judged right to gratify him, and Waxel, at the same time, called out t' the sailors who were on the beach to come Til KIR SKCONI) V()VA(;E. 1)3 )})(' |)ass<'(l a IViciid- VimTicans .1)1(' terms 111 wliak's' possess ; lis fears as jat, wliieh )iis to con- iisliiictioii, liiin witli * reverse of . ludierous all tliat he lis eoiiipa- 'atiiient he • Steller in ad sailors' disgust by eeo, which d with his European |)resented ow bark, ales." It spirits or )ugli every L' his con- beads, an ept of no- )riiig signs d right to niCj called 1 to come back ; the Americans made a violent attempt tode- tain tlicm, but two blunderbusses were lircd over thei. heads, ami had the effect of making tlicm fall flat on the liround, whilst the Russians escaped and rejoined their companions. This adventure gave them an oj)portunity (jf ex- amininu this new people, now for the first time visited by Europeans. " The islanders, were of moderate stature, but tolerably well proportioned; their arms and legs very fleshy. Their hair was straight iind of a glossy blackness; their faces brown and flat, but neither broad nor large; their <'yes wen; black, aiul their lij)s thick and turned upwards; their necks were slutrt, their shoulders broad, and their bodies thick but not corpulent. Their upper (Gar- ment was made of whales' intestines, their breeches of seals' skins, and their caps formed out of the hide of sea-lions, adorned with feathers of various birds, especially the hawk. Their nostrils were stopped with, grass, and their noses as flat as CJalmucks'; their faces painted, some with red, others with different colours ; and some of them, instead of caps, wore hats of bark, coloured green and red, open at the top, and shaped like candle-screen.^-, apparently tor protecting the eyes against the rays of the sun. These hats, might lead us to suppose that the na- tives of this part of America are of Asiatic descent ; for the Kamtschadalesand Koriaks wear the like, of which sevcal specimens may be seen in the ^AIu- seuni at St Petersburg."* At this time Behring being confined by severe sickness, the chief command fell on Waxel, who was • Coxe's Russian DLicovcries, p. iVi. \)i nKIIRIN'^; AM) TriflRIKOW: prcparinjj to sail, \vlirii scvm Americans cami' in tlu'ir boats to the ship's side, and two of tlicni catch- in^f hold of thccntrancr-hKhhr, prcsmtcd their Inm- nets and a carved iina:.'e of hone, hearini: some re- semhlance to a human fiuure. They lilxewise liehl up ihe cahnnet, and would have come ahoard, hut the sailors were taking up the anchor, and the hr<'<'ze tresheninl away, and disclosed a hi«,d) and desolate coast, vyhich a stront: south wind ma(U' it dani^erous to approach. The majority of the crew were by tliis time disabled by the scurvy, and the rest so weak, that to mana<{e the vessel during tlie tempestuous weather was almost impos- sible. A violent gale soon after be«ran to blow from the west, which gradually increased, and drove the ship far to the south-east. Tlie storm continued for seventeen days, — a fact to which there are few paral- lels iu the history of shipwrecks; and the pilot, Andrew Ilesselberg, who had served for fifty years in several parts of the world, declared he had never witnessed so long and terrible a gale. oMeanwhile they carried as little sail as )ps of the mountains at first appeared, and the shore was so distant, that, althouifh they stood towards it the whole day, ni^jht came on before tlu'y could ^et near enouirh to look for anchor- age. At noon that day they made their Iatitu(l<' !)y ol)servation to be it()° north. On the mornin^^ of the r)tli, it was discovered that almost all the shrouds on the starboard side of tlie ship were broki'n, which hap- pened from contraction and tenseness caused by the frost ; for, without other mention made of the wea- ther, it is complained that the cold was insupport- able. In this distress the commodore ordered the lieutenant to call all the officers to^r(>ther, to consult on their best mode of proc<'edinjnr ; and the increased numbers of the sick, with tlie want of fresh water, determined them at all hazards to s<'ek relief at this land. The wind was northerly, and they had sound- ings at tlie depth of thirty-seven fathoms, with a sandy bottom. They now steered in towards the land, west-south-west and south-west, and tw(> liours after, at five in the evening, they anchored in twelve fathoms, the bottom sand, and veered out three quarters of a cable. The sea now began to run 7 * TIIKIU bKCUM) VOVA(iK. J>7 r, wrn' U'(\ Aiilk with r, aiiotlicr •('. Mafiv ft' was st nmt; 1st some ol" olciit wind : of this ill- he j^Mveii ill •'On No. once more liiisat first t,aIthoii^fh lit came on tor anclior- latitude hy niii^f of th<' shrouds on which hap- is<'d hv the f the wea- iiisiipport- nh'red tlie to consult incn'ased •esli water, lief at this ad sound- iis, witli a jwards the and two f ancliored veered out 'gan to run hiuh. and at six the cahh* yave way. Aiiotiu r anclior was h't ^'o, yet the ship struck twice, ihoiiyh thev found, hv the lead, Ihc fathoms (h'pth of wati-r. ft ' • ■ Tlie cahh- ()uicUly parted ; and it was fortunate a third ainhor was not n-ady, for whilst they were pnparinif it a high wave threw the ship over a hank of HM-ks, where all at once she was in still water. They !i()w dropt their anchor in four fathoms and a half, ahout i'AH) yards from the land, and lay (juiet lahonrinp; under different nuUadies enclosed and crowchnl tofrether: and fortunately, since the date of tliis ex[)edition, the nianag-ement of the sick with respect to air has under^vone a very essential reform. * •\ ('oxe's Hussian Discoveries, pp. /li, 74. TIIEIH SECOND VOYAGE. 99 making an lHm""lf was arrow, care, id been casl B coast was but no traces shores were ?d witli blue r in liis jour- objects : tile d be buried, e living and e, and smell [ tliat he was d of liunger luch affected their teetii li swarmed nd miscliie- oyed differ- On e took a a fourth a mplements : vere ineffec- tho memory nt f the sick w(mv 1 tow instances )()ar(l a ship of isi>a.se(l persons rtded tojretlier: le manaj^ement sential reform. Lieutenant Waxei, on wliom, since the iihiess of tlie commodore, the command devolved, and Ky. trow, the ship-master, continued healthy at sea ; and the necessity for exertion, in seeing every thinjr sent on shore, had a favourable effect in re])ell- ing the attacks of the disease. At last, however, they too were laid up, and soon lu'came so weak, that, on the 21st of November, they were carried ashore like the rest. During this dreadful residence on the island, the men lived chiefly on the flesh of th<' sea-otters, which was so hard and tough that it could scarcely be torn to pieces by the teeth. The intestines w<'re nn)stlv used for the sick ; and Steller, in his descriptions of the marine ajii- mals of these refjions, reckons the flesh of the sea- otter as a specific against the scurvy. When not wanted for food tliey were killed for their line skins, 900 being collected on the island, and <'(pial- ly divided among the crew. A dead whale, which was thrown u|)on the coast, they called their maga- zine, as it proved a resource when nothing better could be got. The flesh was cut into small [)ieces, which thi^y boiled a long time to separat<' the oil from it as much as possible, and the remaining hard and sinewy parts they swallowed without cliewing. In this miserable manner they contiimed to sup- port life ; but some of the crew sunk daily under tlie disease, and on the \\\\\ of December th<' commo- dore ex[)ired. Behring was an officer of extraordi- nary merit ; and, until reduced by the disease of which he became the victim, endowed w^ith unshaken pi'rseverance and energy. His voyage set at rest the disput(>d point regarding the separation of the two 100 DEATH OF BEIIIUNG. continents of Asia and America ; and he has de. servedly bequeatlied his name to the strait wliicli he was the first to explore, and the desohite island on which he died. It is melancholy to think, that after the exertions he had made in the cause of na- val discovery, his life terminated so miserably ; for it may ahnost be said that he was buried alive : The sand roUed down continually from the side of the cavern in which he lay, and at last covered his feet; nor would he suffer it to be removed, saying, he felt warmth from it, when he was cold in all other parts; it thus gradually increased upon him till his body was more than half concealed ; so that, when he at last expired, it was found necessary to unearth him previously to his being interred. " Beh- ring," says Steller, who was by no means disposed tu exaggerate the good qualities of his commander, "dis- played in his illness the most affecting resignation to the will of the Supreme Being, and enjoyed his un- derstanding and speech to the last. He was con- vinced that the crew had been driven on an un- known land ; yet he would not terrify others by de- claring his opinion, but cherished their hopes and encouraged their exertions. He was buried accord- ing to the Protestant ritual, and a cross was erected over his grave to mark the spot, and to serve also as an evidence that the Russians had taken possession of the country."* Soon after the death of the commodore the whole crew were sheltered from the severity of the winter in subterranean dwellings contiguous to each other, and recovered so much strength by the use of sweet Coxe's Uassian Discoveries, p. 79* STATE OF THE EXPEDITION. 101 he has de- trait whieli )hite island tliiiik, that ause of na- erably ; for alive : The side of the covered his ved, saying, cold in all 1 upon him 'd ; so that, necessary to red. "Beh. 5 disposed to ander, '^dis- signation to yed his un- [e was con- on an un- hers by de- hopes and ried accord- was erected erve also as 1 possession e the whole the winter each other, ise of sweet and excellent water, and the flesh of the sea-animals killed in huntind to pass the night. At midnight a violent luirricane arose, and the snow fell in such quantities that we should have been buried had we not run 102 TIIKY m'lIJ) A SVAV VESSKL. coiitiiiuaUv backwards and forwards. In tlit' morn, ing, afti'r a l()nj Cook sailed from Plymouth Sound in tht Resolution, leaving instructions for the Discoverv. the command of which was intrusted to Captain ('harles Clerke, to join him at the Cape. From that place the two ships i)r()C('eded, in a course marked by important discoveries, through the Southern He- misphere, by Van Diemen's Land, New Zealand, Otaheite and the Sandwich Islands. They then steered north-eastward, and on tlie 7th of IMarch, in latitude 44^1^ north, came in sight of the Ameri- can continent at the coast of New Albion. Owing to unfavourable winds, which forced the ships to the south, it was the 29th before Cook anchored in Nootka Sound, where he was soon visited oy thirty l)oats of the natives, carrying each from three to seven or eight persons, both men and women. At first none of the Americans would venture within either ship, and from the circumstance of their boats remaining at a short distance all night, as it on watch, it was evident they regarded the arrival •of the strangers with much suspicion. A friendly intercourse, however, was soon established ; and although theft, particularly of any iron utensil, was unscrupulously committed, they were pretty fair and honest in their mode of barter. '' They were," K. INTKRCOrnSK WITH THE NATIVES. lO.") on all liopo; A'ho liad al. L' greatest ot e Ad 111 i rait Y • iiig only th( ' Pacific into iitic into th( 12th of July ound in the Q Diseoverv. [ to Captain From that urse marked louthern He- L'W Zealand, Thev then h of March. the Ameri- on. Owing the ships to anchored in L'd oy thirty >m three to vomen. At ture within ce of their night, as it the arrival A friendly ished ; and ■on utensil, ' pretty fair i'hey w^ere/' says Cook, "docile, courteous, and good-natured; hut quick in resenting what they looked upon as an injury, and, like most other passionate people, as soon forgetting it. Their stature was rather below the common size of Europeans; and although at first, owing to the paint and grease which covered their skins, it was believed that they were of a cop- per complexion, it was afterwards discovered that they were in reality a white people. They were well armed with pikes, some headed with bone and many with iron ; besides which they carried bows, slings, knives, and a short club- like the patow of the New Zealanders ; tlu'ir arrows were barbed at the point, and the inner end feathered." A dis- pute occurred after the arrival of the English, be- tween the inhabitants of the northern and southern coasts of the sound ; but a pacific treaty was con- cluded, and tlie event celebrated by a species of music, in which they bore alternate parts. '' Their songs," says Captain Burney, who was himself pre- sent, " were given in turn, the party singing having their pikes erected. When the first finished they laid down their pikes, and the other party reared theirs. What they sung was composed of few notes, and as wild as could have been expected ; yet it was solemn and in unison, and what I thought most ex- traordinary, they were all well in tune with each other. The words were at times given out by one man, as a parish-clerk gives out the first line of a psalm."* It appeared evident to Captain Cook, that previ- ous to this, the inhabitants had never entertained * Barney's North-eastern Voya^^es of Discovery, p. 213. km; COOK AT NOOTKA SOINI). any direct coniniuiiication with Kiiropcaiis. '' Tlicy were not startled," says lie, " hy the re|)()rt of a musket, till one day, u\nm endeavoiiriiiif to prove to us that arrows and s|)ears would not penetrate their war-dresses, a ') , still that eminent oHicer deemed himself at liberty to com[)lete an accurate survey of this hitherto undiscovered coast, from the arm of the sea afterwards (h'nominated (.'ook's Inlet round the great Peninsula of ^Vlaska, terminating in Cape Oouiunak. lie thence j)roceeded along the shores of Bristol Bay, till he doubled Ca[)e Newenhani, from which he steered in a north-easterly direction and anchored in Norton Sound. Leaving this the ships entered Behring's Strait, and followed the coast to the north-west, till they doubled a pro- montory situated in (i;V 4r>" north latitude, which they named Prince of Wales' Cape, regarding it as the western extremity of all America hitherto known. Soon after, in the evening they discerned the coast of Asia, and standing across the strait came to anchor in a bay of the Tschuktschi country, near a village from which the natives crowded to the shore. Observing this. Cook landed with three boats well armed, and was received by the Tschuktschi with cautious courtesy. About forty men, armed each with a spontoon, besides bow and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising ground close by the village, and as the English drew near, three of them came down to- wards the shore, politely taking off their caps and I 1(){J COOK (KOSSKS HKIIUINfi's STHAIT TO ASIA. makin^r l()^v Ik)\vs. On scciiKj sonic of the Kn^lish leap from their boats tlicy retired, and expressed by si^ns their desire that no more should hind ; hut wlien Cook advanced ah)nc, with some small pre- sents in liis liand, their conTKhiU'c was restored, and they exchau'^cd for them two fox-skins and two sealiorsc-teeth. iVII this tim«' thev never laid down their weapons, hut held them in constant readiness, except for a short time, when four or five persons disarmed tliemselves to t'ive the En},dish a son<; and a dance ; even then, however, they |)laced them in sucli a manner that they could reach them in an instant, and evidently for greater security they de- sired their audience to sit down durinj,' the dance. Tliis Asiatic people, although dwelling; within fifty miles of the American coast, were evidently a dif- ferent race from the inhabitants of the shores of Behring's Strait. All the Americans whom the English had seen since their arrival on the coast were low of stature, with round chubby faces and high cheek-bones. The Tschuktschi, on the con- trary, jiad long visages, and were stout and well made. Several things which they had with them, and more particularly their < lothing, showed a de- gree of ingenuity surpassing what one could ex- pect among so norther?) a people. Their dress con- sisted of a cap, frock, breeches, boots, and gloves, all made of leather or skins extremely well dressed, some with the fur on, some without it, and the quivers which contained their arrows were made of red leatlier neatly embroidered, and extremely beau- tiful.* Cook's Voyaj^cs, vol. vi. pp. 400, 410, 411. ASIA. Ill: TIT UN'S TO A.MKHICA. 10'.) 1' En^^lish )n'ssi'(l l)v • aiul ; hut iiiiall \)rv. n'stort'cl, s and two laid down readiness, e persons , son<( and I them in em in an ,' they de- the danee. ithin liftv • itiv a dif- sliores of vliom the the coast faces and tile c'on- aiid well itli them, wed a de- eoiild ex- [Iress cou- ld gloves, 1 dressed, and the made of ely beau- e From this hay the ships ajjain stood over to the north-* ast, and, continuiiiir their examination of the American coast, C'ooU soon found himself surround- ed hy Hw dreary features which mark the scenery of the Polar latitudes; a dark and <,d()omy sky, thick showers of snow and hail, and immense fields and mountains of ice, covered in some places hy the huj:e forms of the walrus or seahorse, which lay in herds of many hundreds, huddling like swine one ov<'r the other. The llesli of these animals, when new kilh'd, was preferred hy the crew to their com- mon fare of salt meat, hut within four and twenty hours it became rancid and fishy. From a point of land, which was denominated Cape INIulgrave, they now explored the coast to the latitude of 'JO^ 29", where their progress was arrested by an unbroken wall of ice appanMitly stretching from continent to continent."' At this time the nearest land was about a league distant, and the farthest eastern point seen a low headland much encumbered with ice, to which Cook gave the name of Icy Cape, and which, till the recent discoveries of Captain Beechey, constitut- ed the extreme limit of European discovery in that quarter of the globe. It was now the end of August ; and as nothing farther could be attempted at that season on the American coast, the ships return- ed to the Sanflwich Islands, with the intention of resuming in the succeeding summer the attempt for the discovery of a communication between the Pa- cific and the Atlantic, — an object which their great commander did not live to execute, having been killed in an unfortunate scuffle with the natives of * Cook's Voyag-os, vol. vi. pp. 415, 417. 11(1 Ki/rrHN OF TiiK i:\i»i:i)iTioN. Owliyhcc oil tln' 11 III (»r FchniJiry 177i^- 'I'x' ^J^r- tlirr ('oiiduct of the expedition now Icil to ('lerkc and Kinu, and an attempt was niad<' to peiietralr l)eVond lev Cape; l»iit the eoiltiiiiied fields ol* m rendered it utterly ahortive. The ships then-rorc liaviiiLj repassed Jlehriiiy 3Ieares, \''ancouver, an«i Kot/ebue; and thou<,di th<' limit of discovery was not extend- ed heyond Icy Cape, the shores were mor<' mimitcjv examined, and a heneficial commercial intercourst established with the natives. Of C'a{)tain iNIeares voya^U's, the ^M'eat object was to establish a trade between China and the north-west coast of Ame- rica. For this purpose an association of the leadini: mercantile men in I3ent(al fitted out two vessels, — the Nootka, commanded by lAIeares himself, and the Sea-otter by Lieutenant Walter Tij)|)in^r. TIk Sea-otter in the first instance took a cargo of opium to jMalacca, thence she j)roceeded to America, and is known to have made Prince William's Sound ; bul after leaving that harbour no accounts of her wen ever received, and it a})pears certain that she and her crew perished at sea. The fate of Meares in tin- Nootka w as scarcely more tolerable : After a te- dious and perilous navigation in the China Seas. they made their way through the straits between mi:ahi:s kiii^t ^ «)va»;k. Ill I. The far. I to Clerkc .() |)('ii('tnili' liclds of ice |)s Ihcrcfort' tu anchor in aiiitschatka. I'll ill a (!«'- 'cat satisfac. )S, who WiTc inhospitahl*' ami (Merkr. sited at (lif- il Kotzchuc; not cxtciid- )n' iniiiiitt'lv intcrcoursf ain iMcarcs ilisli a trade ist of Amc- tlic Icadini: vessels, — liniself, and pin^r. The no of opiiiiii riea, and is Mnuid ; but of her were lat she and cares in thf After a te- Jhina Seas. its between Ooiiainak and Ooiialaska ai^ainst a current running seven knots an hour, from which they sailed across to Anierii'a bv the Sdminaiiin Islands, and anchor- * ea|).s tnitral part (• called tlx' th oil, fVoin at delicious ic roof were f a first rate with thcni ; stouishnicnl iisidcrcd the red to raise it elevation, landed by a ►posed, with ch we enter, outh of one t may, from i been, was es of its CO- steps on the descended e found new len, women, of the chief, These were respective gned them, ng was sur- the ground. e, and slept, of the room mall raised iveral large large slices of whales' flesh, and proportionable gobbets of blul)- ber. Festoons of human skulls, arranged with some attention to uniformity, were disposed in almost every {)art where they could be placed ; and, however ghastly such ornaments a|)peared to European eyes, they were evidently coTisidered by the courtiers and people of Wicananish as a very splendid and aj)- propriate decoration of the royal apartment." When the KFiglish appeared the guests had made a con- siderable advance in their baiiquet. Before each person was placed a large slice of boiled whale, which, with small wooden dishes filled with oil and fish-soup, and a muscle-shell instead of a spoon, composed the economy of the table. The servants l)usily replenished the ark, which served the purpose of towels. The guests despatch- ed their messes with astonishing rapidity and vo- racity, and even the children, some of them not above three years old, devoured the blubber and oil with a rapacity worthy of their fathers. Wica- nanish in the mean time did the honours with an air of hospitabh' yet dignified courtesy, which might have graced a more cultivated society. At the conclusion of the feast it was intimated to the English that the proper time had arrived to produce their presents. Upon this a great variety of articles were displayed ; among which were several blankets and two copper t<'a-kettles. On these last, considered to be almost inestimable, the eyes of the whole assem- bly were instantly riveted ; and a guard was imme- diately mounted, who kept a jealous watch over them till curiosity was gratified ; after which, they were deposited in large ch'^sts rudely carved and 12G BRISK TRADE IN FURS. fancifully adorned with human teeth. About fifty men now advanced into the middle of tlie apart- ment, eacli liolding up a sea-otter skin nearly six feet in length, and while they remained in that posi. tion the prince delivered a speech, drrin^ which he gave his hand in token of friendship to the captain, and informinjo; him that these skins were the return he proposed to make for the present he had just re- ceived, concluded by ordering them to be immedi- ately conveyed on board. The English now opened a urisk trade, procur- ing the finest furs, whilst they were supplied with excellent provisions: Salmon, cod, halibut, rock- fish, and herrings, were brought to them fresh from the water ; and the women and children sold them berries, wild onions, salads, and other esculent plants. Wicananish, however, was anxious to esta- blish a rigid monopoly, and evinced the utmost jea- lousy lest any neighbouring princes should be admit- ted to trade with the English. None were allowed to go on board without his license ; and one unfor- tunate stranger was detected without a parsport, hur- ried into the woods, and, as was strongly suspected, instantly put to death. At last two chiefs, who had already entered into some transactions with Captain IMeares, remonstrated against such illibe- rality ; and Wicananish, rather than go to war, concluded a treaty, wiiich had the effect of restor- ing a good understanding by mutual sacrifices. Hanna and Detootche agreed to resign to Wicana- nish all the otter skins in their possession on condi- tion of receiving the two copper tea-kettles already mentioned. These last articles, however ludicrous it may appear in the eyes of European diplomatists, NATURE OF THE COUNTRY. 127 About fiftv f the apart- i nearly six ill that posi- lij wliit'h lie the captain, e the return had just re. be immecli- ide, procur- ipplied with libut, rock- I fresh from II sold them er esculent ious to esta- utmost jea- d be admit- ere allowed one iinfor- rsportj, liur- f suspected, L'hiefs^ who tions with ;uch illibe- go to war, of restor- sacrifices. Wicana- 1 on condi- es already • ludicrous plomatists, V formed the grand basis of the treaty, and the terms of exchange were not arranged without much diffi- culty. During these proceedings the English had little opportunity to examine the country ; but every thing which they saw was inviting. An archipe- lago extended from King George's Sound to the harbour of Wicananish, most cf the islands being covered with wood, with few clear spots. The soil was rich, producing berries and fruits in abundance, and the timber of uncommon size and beauty, con- sisting chiefly of red oak, large cedar, black and white spruce-fir. In their expeditions into the in- terior they met with frequent groves, where al- most every second tree was fit for masts of any di- mensions." From Wicananish Captain Meares sailed south- ward along a coast not visited by Cook, of which the chart by JMaurelle was so inaccurate, that it seem- ed almost certain he had never surveyed it in per- son. During this voyage they were visited by a small lleet of canoes, filled with people far more sa- vage ihan those hitherto met with. The face of the chief was ])edaubed with black ochre, and powdered with a glittering sand, which communicated a singu- lar fierceness of expression; whilst his manners were rude, and gave no encouragement to any more in- timate intercourse. Alt ares continued his survey of the coast as far north as latitude 49° 37'; after which he retraced his progress, and on reaching the Strait of Juan de Fu9a took possession of it, with all the usual ceremonies, in the name of the King of Great Britain. The existence of this chan- nel, which had been doubted since its discovery in * Meares' Voyaj^es, vol. i, p. 239. i 128 STRAIT OF JUAN DE FU^A. 1592;, was now positively ascertained, and the long- lx)at was despatclied up the strait under the com- mand of j\Ir Uuffin, first officer of the Felice. Her crew consisted of tliirteen sailors, well armed, and provisioned for a month. In a week, however, they returned, — with their full complement indeed, but every one of them wounded. They had been at- tacked by the natives with a ferocity and determi- nation which set at nought the usual terror of fire- arms. The assailants used their bows and arrows, clubs, spears, stone-bludgeons, and slings, with great skill and courage. The boat itself showed this, being pierced in numerous places with the barbed arrows, many of which were still sticking in the awi.ing, which, by intercepting the heavy showers of these missiles and breaking the fall of the large sto::es discharged from the slings, was the principal means of preserving the lives of the crew. On returning down the strait, they were met by a canoe paddled by two subjects of Wicananish, and after purchasing some fish were about to bid them farewell, when the savages made them aware that they still had another commodity to dispose of, and to their inexpressible horror exhibited two human heads still dripping with blood. " They held up these detestable objects by the hair," says Meares, " with an air of triumph and exultation, and when the crew of the boat discovered signs of disgust and detestation at so appalling a spectacle, the savages, in a tone and with looks of extreme satisfaction, in- formed them that they were the heads of two people belonging to Tatootche, the enemy of their own king Wicananish, whom they had recently slain."* * Meares' Voyag'es, vol. i. p. 2811. 6 CANNIBALISM. 129 I the long- • the corn- lice. Her rnied, and ever, they ndeed, but I been at- l determi- •or of fire- id arrows, vvitli great this, being ed arrows, e awLing, •s of these ,rge stojies pal means re met bv anish, and bid them ware that )se of, and m human f held up s Meares, and when isgust and savages, iction, in- wo people heir own y slain."* This last occurrence threw a gloom over tlie spirit;' of the ship's company, and caused them to make more minute inquiries into the habits of the savages, which brought to light some very extraordinary circumstances. IMild and amiable as were the ge- neral manners of the inhabitants of Nootka Sound, it was discovered by their own confession, that they not only tortured captives with every refinement of cruelty, but feasted on human flesh. Callicum, a chief described bv jMeares as a model of kindness and even of delicacv in his intercourse with the English, acknowledged that he slept nightly on a pillow filled with human skulls, which he often ex- hibited as trophies of his valour. Maquilla betrayed his cannibal propensities in a manner still more decided : " It so happened that the chief, in as- cending the side of the ship, by some untoward accident received a hurt in the leg. Orders were immediately given to the surgeon to attend, and when he was about to apply a plaster to the wound, IMaquilla absolutely refused to submit, but sucked himself the blood which freely flowed from it; and when we expressed our astonishment and disgust -^j, sucli conduct, he replied by licking his lips, pat- rrncr his belly, and exclaiming, ' Cloosh, cloosh,' or (iood, good !' Nor did he now hesitate to confess that he ate human flesh, and to express the delight he took in banqueting upon Iiis fellow-creatures ; not only avowing the practice, but informing the crew, as they stood shuddering at the story, that not long before this the ceremony of killing and eating a slave had taken place at Friendly Cove."^ This acknowledgment was confirmed by Callicum * Meares' Voyaj^cs, vol. ii. p. 49. H 130 SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES and Ilaniiapa, who, protesting tliey had never tasted the smallest bit of human flesh themselves, describ. ed ]\raquilla as peculiarly fond of it, and in the practice of killing a slave once a-month to gratify his unnatural appetite. Perhaps there might be some exaggeration in this ; but the ghastly orna. ments of Wicananish's dining-room, the extraordi. nary pillow of Callicura, the exposure of men't heads and limbs for sale, and the admission of tin chief himself, sufficiently j)rove the existence of t]li^ atrocious custom, whatever might be the extent tn which it was carried. For a long time the English thought the inhabit, ants had no religious belief whatever. To Lie hufft misshapen images seen in their houses they ad- dressed no homage ; they had neither priests nor temples, nor did they offer any sacrifices ; but an accidental circumstance led to the discovery that, though devoid of all superstitious observances, and wholly ignorant of the true God, they were not with- out a certain species of mythology, including the be- lief of an existence after death. ^' This discoverv,' says JMeares, " arose from our inquiries on a very different subject: On expressing our wish to be informed by what means they became acquainted with copper, and why it was such a peculiar object of their admiration, a son of Hannapa, one of the Nootkan chiefs, a youth of uncommon sagacity, informed us of all he knew on the sub- ject ; and we found, to our surprise, that his story involved a little sketch of their religion." When words were wanting he supplied the deficiency by those expressive actions which nature or necessity seems to communicate to people whose language h VES: [ never tasted Ives, describ- and in tho th to gratify re miglit Ik ;hastly orna. le extraordi. ire of men't ission of tlu stence of tlii.< the extent t( ] the inhabit. To Uie hiig( ses they ad- r priests nor ices; hut an ^covery that, rvances, and ere not witli- iding the be- s discovery,' es on a verv ft wish to be acquainted a peculiar Hannapa, uncomnioi! on the sub- lat Iiis story on." Wlieii leficiency by or necessitv language i^ THKIR STRANGE TRADITIONS. 1:31 imperfect; and the young Nootkan conveyed his id(?as by signs so skilfully as to render them [)er- fectly intelligible. He related his story in the fol- lowing manner: — " He first placed a certain num- lw?r of sticks on the ground, at small distances from each other, to which he gave separate names. Thus, he called the first his father, and the next his grand- father: he then took what remained and threw them all into confusion together, as much as to say that they were the general heap of his ancestors, whom he could not individually reckon. He then, pointing to this bundle, said, when they lived an old man entered the sound in a copper canoe, with cop- per paddles, and every thing else in his possession of the same metal ; that he paddled along the shore, on which all the people were assembled to contem- plate so strange a sight, and that, having thrown one of his copper paddles on shore, he himself land- ed. The extraordinary stranger then told the natives that he came from the sky, to which the boy point- (!d with liis hand ; that their country would one day be destroyed, when they would all be killed, and rise again to live in the place from whence he came. Our young interpreter explained this circumstance of his narrative by lying down as if he were dead, and then, rising up suddenly, he imitated the action as if he were soaring through the air. He continued to inform us that the people killed the old man and took his canoe, from which event they derived their fondness for copper, and he added that the images in their houses were intended to repre- sent the form, and perpetuate the mission of this supernatural person who came from the sky." ■ * Meares' Voyaf;;es, vol. ii. pp. 70, 71- J 32 SPECULATIONS ON A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. As the objects of this voyage were principally ot a commercial nature, Captain T^Ieares had better opportunities to observe the character of tin? nativ; s than to explore tlie coast or the interior of the coun- try. The range of his navigation, extending only from Nootka Sound to the latitude of 49° 37' north, disclosed no regular continuity of land, but in everv direction large islands, divided by deep sounds and channels. The time which this intelligent seaman could spare was not enough to complete the surv<'y , but, judging from what he did see, he was led to tin l)elief that the entire space from St George's Sound to Hudson's Bay and Davis' Strait, instead of a continent, was occupied by an immense archipelajio. through which might reach a passage from the Pa- cific into the Atlantic Ocean. ^^ The channels of this archipelago," says he in his memoir on tlu probable existence of a north-west passage, " wer( found to be wide and capacious, with near 20(i fathoms depth of water, and huge promontories stretching out into the sea, where whales and sea- otters were seen in an incredible abundance. In some of these channels there are islands of ice whieJi we may venture to say could never have been form- ed on the western side of America, which possesses a mild and moderate climate ; so that their existence cannot be reconciled to any other idea than that they received their formation in the Eastern Seas, and have been drifted by tides and currents throuali the passage for whose existence we are contending.'" To determine this great question, and complelc an accurate survey of the north-west coast of Ame- rica, Captain Vancouver, an excellent officer, who — ■! ■ ■■■■!■■ ■■I. - ■ I I II ■■ I ... I ■ ■■■ 111 I II — I 11 .M M I H IIil IIBI !■■— * Meares' Voyag'es, vol. ii. p. 242. ' PASSAGE. )rineipally ot 3 had better f the nativ( s of the coun- tending only 9° 37' nortli, but in everv « ) sounds and gent seaman the survey : ■ ras led to tin orge's Sound instead of a arehipelapo rom the Pa- ' channels of imoir on tlu VOVAGE OF VANCOUVER. 133 (( wen page; h near 2()(i promontories es and sea- ndance. In of ice whicli been fonii- ich possesses eir existence a than tlial astern Seas, nts throuali >ntending."^ id complete ist of Ame- officer, who had received liis professional education under Cook, was despatclied in 17iH) ; and, commencing his voyage at Caj)e iMendocino, in latitude 4P, he sailed northward 211) leagues to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, never losing sight of the surf which dash- ed against the shore, taking once or twice every day the meridional altitude, and minutely noting the position of the most conspicuous points. The wholecoast presented an impenetrable barrier against approach from the sea, and no opening was found to adbrd his vessels tlie smallest shelter. He then ex- plored the Strait of Juan de Fu9a; and having sa- tisfied himself that no passage across America was to be discovered there, devoted his time to the survey of the labyrinth of islands, sounds, and inlets, between i)(P and ()0^ of latitude. After a series of patient and scientific observations every way worthy of the school in which he had been bred, he ascertained the grand fact that the coast was throughout conti- nuous, and thus dispelled all hope of a north-west passage in this quarter. It was his fate to en- counter not a little uiu'easonable scepticism when the result was made public; and, like many other travellers and navigators, he found too much reason to complain of those lazy closet-philosophers, who refuse to admit any testimony which happens to contradict their own preconceived theories. Time, however, has done him justice, and fully confirmed the accuracy of his report. After the disastrous result of the expedition of Behring, more than eighty years elapsed before Rus- sia thought proper to pursue the career of disco- very on the extreme coasts of North-western Ame- rica. At length Count Romanzoff, a scientific and J.^4 KOTZEBUE. patriotic nobleman, deterniiiicd to despatch Lieu- tenant Kotzehue on a voyage to tlie straits which bear the name of that ^reat mariner. His e(iuip- ment consisted of a single v<'ssel, tlie lUirick, 100 tons burden^ with twenty-two sailors, a surgeon, and a botanist. Having doubled Cape Horn, he ar. rived on the IDth June 1810 at Awatrcha. Con- tinning his course he passed the boundary ex[)lore(l by Behring, and on the 1st of August descried on his right, in latitude ()8", a broad opening which he trust(.'d would prove the long-sought- for i)assage. Having entered, he landed on the beach, ascend- ed a neighbouring hill, and saw nothing but wa- ter as far as the eye could reach. Full of ardent expectation he employed a fortnight in examining' this sound, making a complete circuit of its shores. No outlet, however, w^as discovered, except one, which it a])peared almost certain communicated with Norton Sound, and Kotzebue resumed his voyage, which, however, was attended with no new or important results. To this arm of the sea, the discovery of which forms the principal feature in his enterprise, he has very properly communicated his name. With Kotzebue terminates our account of the pro- gress of discovery upon the north-w^estern shores of America ; for an outline of the survey made by Cap- tain Beechey belongs to a future portion of thisdisqui- sition. It is a pleasing reflection, that almost exclu- sively to the British navy belongs the hard-earned praise of having explored nearly the whole of this coast, with an accuracy which leaves nothing to be desired by the most scientific navigator. COLONISATION OP CANADA. I3r, )atc1i Liou. raits wliicli His t'(iiiii)- ^urick, 100 Lirgeon, and )rn, lie ar- eha. Coii- ry explored descried on ifr whieh lu' or i)assafje. eh, asceiid- lij but wa- 1 of ardent exaniininff if its shores, except one, iimunieated esunied his .'ith no new- he sea, tile ature in his nicated his of the pro. n shores of de by Cap- thisdisqui- nost exclu- ard-earned lole of this hing to be CIIAPTPm III. Ilcnrne and Sir Alexander Mackenzie. Colonisation ol' Canada — Franch P'lir-Trade — Rise of Hudson's Bay Company — Ileariio's Three .Journeys — Nortli-West Fur Company — First Journey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in IJJW — His Second Expedition in 17'J2. Having completed a brief sketch of the progress of discovery along the wide extent of the eastern and western shores of North America, from the first ex- pedition of Cabot to the latest attempts of Kotze- bue, two important subjects present themselves, — the rise of the fur-trade, and the great discoveries wliich were achieved by British subjects connected with this branch of commercial enterprise. The expedition of Cartier conferred on the French that title to the countries round the 8t Lawrence which results from priority of discovery ; and other cir- cumstances combined to direct their efforts chief- ly to the colonisation of the more northern tracts of America. Amongst these causes may be reckoned the disastrous failure of their attempt to establish a settlement in Florida, the great power of the Spa- niards in that quarter, and the pre-occupation of the middle regions of the continent by the English. In 1598, the Sieur de la Roche, a Breton gentleman of J3f) SIECR DE LA ROCHE. ancient family, obtained from Henry IV. a patent, equally unlimited with that granted by Elizabeth to Gilbert and Raleigh. He was nominated Lieute- nant-General of Canada, Hochelaga, Newfoundland, Labrador, and of the countries lying on the River of the great Bay of Norimbega (meaning the St Law. rence), and the supreme command, both civil and military, was concentrated in his single person. His preparations were singularly disproportionate to thest high-sounding titles, and the whole expedition was unfortunate. La Roche, with a small squadron, and crews consistingprincipally of convicted felons, land, ed on Sable Island, near the coast of Nova Scotia. From this barren spot, ill adapted for a settlement, he reached the opposite shore, which he surveyed ; and having intrusted the temporary command of the colony to an inferior officer, he returned to France to procure additional supplies. On arriving in Brit. tany, a dispute arose between him and the Duke de Mercoeur, a nobleman enjoying the confidence of the French monarch, by whose influence the royal fa- vour was wholly withdrawn from La Roche. That adventurer, deprived of all means of prosecuting his enterprise in the New World, soon after died of a broken heart. IMeantime the colony on Sable Island were exposed to famine and disease, and totally neglected by the king, amid the occupation and excitement of his vast political schemes. Their existence was at length accidentally recalled to the mind of Henry, who in deep remorse for his forgetfulness despatched a vessel, which on its arrival found only twelve sur- vivors. They had formed a hovel of the planks of a shipwrecked Spanish vessel, supported themselves CIIAUVIN AND PONTGRAVK. 137 V. a patent, Elizabetli to lied Lieutc. ^vfoundlaiid, the River of Jie St Law. ih civil and person. His nate to these )edition was uadron, and felons^ land. iJova Scotia. settlement, e surveyed ; mand of the d to France ing in Brit, tlie Duke de dence of tlie le royal fa- oche. That prosecuting fter died of ere exposed cted by the of his vast at length enry, w^ho spatched a welve sur- planks of themselves l)y fisliinii, and replaced th. Ir worn-out European ^rarnients with the skins of the sea-wolf. On their return to France, the monarch was greatly moved by the account of their sufferings, corroborated as it was by their emaciated and hagard aspect, matted hair, beards which almost swept the ground, and singular dress. He hastened to compensate for his neglect, by granting to such as were felons a free pardon, and presenting to each a sum of fifty crowns.* These disasters wore followed soon after by an attempt of Chauvin and Pontgrave, two fur-mer- chants, to establish a colony at Tadoussack, on the mouth of the Saguenay, which proved abortive, and gave place to an expedition on a more enlarged scale, planned and conducted l)y De jMonts, a gen- tleman of Saintonge, whose squadron consisted of forty vessels. His first settlement was on the Island of St Croix, from which he removed to Port Royal, now known by the name of Annapolis, where he appears to have abandoned his more pacific designs for the superior excitation and profits of piracy. The complaints of the merchants engaged in the Newfoundland fishery terminated in the recall and disgrace of De JMonts ; but Champlain, on whom the command devolved, showed himself every way worthy of the trust. From Tadoussack he reproved the principal settlement to Quebec, where he built and fortified a town, reduced the surrounding terri- tory into cultivation, and became the founder of the government of Canada, or New France. Leaving his infant settlement, he next determined to pene^ * Histoire General des Voyages, vol. xiv. pp. 509, 5'JL J3« CUAMPLAIN. tratc into the interior; and his emotions of wonder and astonislinient may l)e easily eoneeived, wiien. ascending' tlie St Lawrence, the majestie forests of Canada first met liis eye, eneirelin^f in their hosoni i\u) greatest hikes known to exist in the world. Surveyinif first the southern bank of the river, and of the lakes Ontario and Erie, he found tliat he iiad readied the very cradle of savage life, sur- rounded by nations whose manners, occupations, and superstitions, were as new as they were bold and terrific. To pursue the discoveries of tlie F'rencli into the interior of North America does not properly fall within the limits of this work ; and it is sufticient at present to observe, that after a long and sanguinary struggle between the arms of France and igland, in the war which broke out in 1756, C .!a was at last subdued by the English, and the possession of the province confirmed to Great Britain by the treaty of 1763. During the war between the United States and the mother country, Upper Canada once more became the theatre of an obstinate contest, which concluded, however, unfavoural)ly for the American troops ; and the country has since remain, ed an integral part of the British dominions. Un- der the French the fur-trade, notwithstanding the restrictions with whicli commerce was oppressed, was carried to a great height and embraced an im- mense extent of country. It was conducted by a set of hardy adventurers, who joined the savages in their hunting-parties, and thus collected large car- goes of furs with vv^hich they supplied the merchants. Their distant inland expeditions sometimes occupied twelve or even eighteen months ; and during this KIIKNCII KlJU-TItADE. \:\\) I of wonder vv{\, wlicn, ic forests of heir bosom tlic world. ' river, and lid tliat he i life, sur- ceupations, ■ were bold ell into tlie roperly fall mfl'icient at sanguinary d igland, '^ la was ? possession ain by the the United ianada once ate contest, )ly for the ice remain- lions. Un- anding the oppressed, ced an im- iicted by a savages in 1 large car- merchants, es occupied luring this period their uninterrupted familiarity with the na- tives almost transformed them into as wild and barbarous a condition as that of the tribes with whom they associated. " It requires less time," says Sir Alexander Mackenzie, "for a civilized people to deviat<' into the manners and customs of savage life* than for savages to rise into a state of civilisation. Such was the event with those who thus accom- panied th(! natives on their hunting and trading ex- cursions ; for they becann; so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all relish for their for- mer hahits and native homes. Hence they derived the title of Coureurs de Cois, became a kind of pedlars, and were extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur-trade, who ga\ them the neces- sary credit to proctu'd on their commercial under- takings. Three or four of these people would join their stock, put their property into a birch-bark canoe which they worked themselves, and would then (uther accompany the natives in their excur- sions, or penetrate at once into the country. At length thes(? voyages extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich cargoes of furs and followed by great numbers of the natives. During the short time requisite to settle their ac- counts with the merchants and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander away all their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life, their views being answered and their labour sufliciently rewarded by indulging them- selves in extravagance and dissipation during the short space of one month in twelve or fifteen. This indifference about amassing property, and the plea- sure of living free from all restraint, soon brought 140 COUREURS DE BOIS. on a licentiousness of manners, whicli could not lone escape the vigilant observation of the missionaries, who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace to the Christian religion, by not only swerv- ing from its duties themselves, but bringing it into disrepute with tiiose of the natives who had become converts to it, and consequently obstructing the great object to which these pious men had devoted their lives. They therefore exerted their influe ice to procure the suppression of these people ; and ac- cordingly no one was allowed to go up the country to traffic with the Indians without a license from the French government."'^' This change of system was not at first attended with the expected benefits ; for the licenses were sold in most instances to retired officers or their widows, who again disposed of them to the fur-merchants, and they of necessity recalled to their service the Coureurs de Bois as their agents : thus matters assumed, though by a somewhat more circuitous process, the same aspect as before. At ast military posts were established at the confluence of the great lakes, which repressed the excesses of the wood-runners, and afforded protection to the trade ; whilst under this new system, a body of re- spectable men, usually retired officers, introduced order and regularity; in the traffic with the natives, co-operated with the cflbrts of the missionaries, and extended their intercourse with the various tribes to the distance of 2500 miles, from the most civilized portion of the colony to the banks of the Saskat- chewine river in 53"^ north latitude, and longitude * Sir Alexander Mackenzie's History of the Fur-Trade, prefixe. i HEARNE. 143 cli discove- leir design, leirs, under my of Ad- tlie power B sole riglit B territories I authorized ke reprisals, nteriug the re war and not Chris- and at first tened men, 3 prosperity, ured as ex- ry, and for the part of question oi' have been lis ; and the on the most and the te- r governor. Inies to the the voyages INIoore and livinced the |if they had in some of it was for 555, 55H. the very sufficient reason that such did not exist. But the most remarkable refutation of these allega- tions is to be found in the important and interest- ing journey of Hearne, from Prince of Wales' Fort to the Northern Ocean, brought to a successful ter- mination in 1772j which, in its origin and progress, merits our particular attention. The native Indians, who range over rather than inhabit the large tract of country north of Church- ill River, having repeatedly brought specimens of copper ore to the company's factory, it was plausi- bly conjectured tliat these had been found not far from the British settlements ; and as the savages affirmed that the mines were not very distant from a large river, it was imagined, most erroneously as was proved by the result, that this stream must empty itself into Hudson's Bay. In 17^)8, the In- dians, wiio came to trade at Prince of Wales' Fort, brought farther accounts of this river, exhibiting at the same time samples of copper, which they affirmed to be the produce of a mine in its vicinity. The go- vernor now resolved to despatch an intelligent person across the continent to obtain more precise informa- tion. Samuel Ilearne was chosen for this service, a man of great hardihood and sagacity, bred in the em- ployment of the company, and who, without preten- sions to high scientific attainments, po.ssessed suffi- cient knowledge to enable him to construct a chart of the country through which he travelled. His instructions directed him to proceed to the borders of the country of the Athabasca Indians, where it was expected he w^ould meet with a river repre- sented by the Indians to abound with copper ore, and to be so far to the north that in the middle of 144 HEARNE S FIRST JOURNEY : siimmcT the sun did not sot. It was called by the natives Neetha-san-san Dazey, or the Far off IMetal River ; and Mr Hearne was directed to explore its course to the mouth, where he was to determine the latitude and longitude, to ascertain whether it was navigable, and to judge of the practicability of a settlement. He was enjoined also to examine the mines alleged to exist in that district, the na- ture of the soil and its productions, and to make every inquiry and observation towards discovering the north-west passage.* On the (Uh of November 1 70w, he set out from Prince of Wales' Fort, Hudson's Bay, upon this perilous journey. He was accompanied by two Englishmen only, — Ilbester, a sailor, and Merri- man, a landsman; by two of the Home-guard South- ern Indians, — a name given to those natives residing as servants on the company's plantation, and em- ployed in hunting; and by eight Northern Indians, under the command of Captain Chawchinahaw and Lieutenant Nabyah. He was provided with ammu- nition for two years, some necessary iron implements, a few knives, tobacco, and other useful articles. As to his personal outfit, his stock consisted simply of the shirt and clothes he wore, one spare coat, a pair of drawers, as much cloth as would make two or three pairs of Indian stockings, and a blanket for his bed. " The nature of travelling long journeys," he observes, " in these countries will not admit of car- rying even the most common article of clothing ; so that the traveller is obliged to depend on the dis- trict he traverses for his dress as well as his suste- Hearne's Journey, Introduction, j). 40. 9 i "A ITS FAILURE. 145 led by the • off Metal explore its determini" whether it ioability of examine 't, the na- id to make iiscoveriiif; t out from upon this ^d by two md Merri- lard Soutli- ^es residing |i, and ein- n Indians, nahaw and ith ammu- nplements, I'ticles. As simply of :!oat, a pair ike two or iket for his irneys/' he mit of oar- othing; so n the dis- his suste- nance." The baseness and treachery of ihe Indians, however, soon put a period to the first journey, and the desertion of Chawchinahaw with his whole es- cort, rendered it absolutely necessary for the little party to make the best of their way back to the fort, where they arrived on the 8th i,f December, after penetratinjr only 200 miles into the interior. It was now determined to resume the expedition with greater precautions against failure. The In- dian women who accompanied their husbands in the first journey were left behind, as were the two Englishmen who had been of little service ; and in- stead of the treacherous Chawchinahaw^, Hearne se- lected an Indian named Connequeesee, who aflirmed he was acquainted with the country, having once been near the river, the discoveryo^ v. hich formed one great object of the journey. Attended by this man, along with three Northern Indians and two of the Home-guard nati^ s, the traveller once more set out, on the 23d February, whilst the snow was so deep on the top of the ramparts of the fort, that few of the cannon could be seen. After undergoing the severest extremities from hunger and fatigue, Mr Hearne reached in August the river Doobaunt, in latitude 63'' 10' north. The progress thus far, how- ever, had been painful beyond measure, owing to the difficulty of pushing forward through a wild unexplored country, intersected with rivers, lakes, and woods, at the outset thickly covered with snow ; and on the approach of the warmer months so flooded and marshy, as to render travelling on foot inexpressibly fatiguing. To add to this, the voracity, improvidence, and indolence of the Indians, subjected the party to repeated distress. J 46 HEARNE S SECOND JOURNEY : If from fishing or hunting a larger supply than usual was procured, instead of using it with mode- ration, and laying up a store for future necessities, all was devoured by the savages, who, like the boa after he has gorged his prey, coiled themselves up, and remained in a state of sleepy torpor till the tall of hunger again roused them to activity. At first the party subsisted without diflficulty on the fish which abounded in the lakes and rivers but in the beginning of April they entirely disap. peared ; and as the '' goose season," or period when the geese, swans, ducks, and other migratory birds resort to these latitudes was yet distant, they began to suffer grievously from want of provisions. Oc casionally they were relieved by killing a few deer or musk-oxen ; but the ground and the brushwood were so saturated with moisture from the meltini; of the snow, that to kindle a fire was impossible: with their clothes drenched in rain, and their spi. rits depressed, they were compelled to eat their meat raw, — a necessity grievous at all times, but in the case of the flesh of the musk-ox, which is rank tough, and strongly impregnated with the sickeniu. substance from which it derives its name, peculi- arly repulsive and unwholesome.* The simple and modest manner in which these se. vere sufferings are described by Hearne is peculiarly striking. " To record," says he, " in detail eaoli day's fare since the commencement of this journey would be little more than a dull repetition of tlit same occurrences. A sufficient idea of it may be give' in a few words, by observing, that it may justly * Hearne's Journey, p. 31. I \r : HIS SKVERE SUFFERINGS. h; supply than ; with mode, e necessities, like the boa lemselves up, ir till the call difficulty oil I and rivers titirely disap. • period wluii gratory birck it, they began visions. Oi. ng a few dew le brushwood I the meJtiui; s impossible: nd their spl- at their meat s, but in the hich is rank, the sickening lame^ peculi- lich these st. is peculiarly u detail eacl: this journey etition of tlit may be give' t may justh be said to have been either all feasting or all fa- mine ; sometimes we had too mucli, seldom just enough, frequently too little, and often none at all. It will be only necessary to say, that we fasted many times two whob' days and nights, twice up- wards of three days, and once, while at Shenanhee, n(>ar seven days, during which we tasted not a mouthful of any thing, except a few cranberries, water, scraps of old leather, and burnt bones." On these pressing occasions Hearne often saw the Indians examine their wardrobe, which consisted chiefly of skin clothing, considering attentively what part could best be spared, when sometimes a piece of half-rotten deer-skin, and at others a pair of old shoes, would be sacrificed to alleviate extreme hun- ger. '''None of our natural wants," he observes, " if we except thirst, are so distressing or hard to tndure as hunger, and in wandering situations like that which I now experienced, the hardship is great- ly aggravated by the uncertainty with regard to its duration, and the means most proper to be used to remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue we must necessarily undergo for that purpose, and the disappointments which too frequently frustrated our best concerted plans and most strenuous exertions. It not only enfeebles the body, but depresses the spirits, in spite of every eifort to prevent it. Be- sides which, for want of action, the stomach so far loses its digestive powers, that, after long fasting, it resumc^s its office with pain and reluctance. Dur- ing this journey I have too IVequently experienced tlie dreadful effects of this calamity, and more than once been reduced to so low a state by hunger and fatigue, that wlien Providence threw any thing in I I4« KETURN FROM CATIIAWIIACIIAGA. my way, my stomach has been scarcely able to re. tain more than two or three ounces without produc- ing the most oppressive pain."* On 30th June, they arrived at a small river calld Cathawhachaga, which empties itself into Wiiit( Snow Lake, in 64° north latitude. Here, as tin guide declared they could not that summer reach the Coppermine River, Hearne determined to pass the winter, with the intention of pushing on to his destination in 1771 • '^l^^'y accordingly forsook their northward route, and taking a westerly course wrrt joined in a few days by many troops of wanderiiii; Indians ; so that by the 3()th July they mustered about seventy tents, containing nearly (JOO souls. and on moving in the morning the whole ground seemed alive with men, women, children, and dof;s. The deer were so plenty that, though lately five or six individuals had almost perished from huufrer. this numerous body supported themselves with great ease, and often killed their game for the skins, leav- ing the carcass to be devoured by the foxes.t In this manner, engaged alternately in hunting and fishing, making observations on the country, and studying the extraordinary manners of his associates, the English traveller was preparing for his winter sojourn, when an accident rendered his quadrant useless, and compelled him, on 13tli August, to set out on his return to the fort. The hardships he endured on his route homeward were various and accumulated : He was plundered by the Northern Indians, who, adding insult to injury, entered his tent, smoked a pipe which * Hearne's Journey, p. '6'i. t Ibid. p. 40. GA. IIEARNK MKKTS iMATtiNABBKE. 141) able to rc- lout produc- I river calUd into Whit( lere, as the mmer reach ined to pass ing on to liis forsook their course were f wanderint: ey mustered y 600 souls. rhole ground n, and dogs. lately five or rom hunger. es with great skins, leav- foxes.t III lunting and ountry, and lis associates. ►r his winter is quadrant ugustj to set e homeward IS plundered ng insult to pipe wliicli id. p. 40. they filled with the white man's tobacco, asked to see his luggage, and without waiting for an answer turned the bag inside out, and spread every article on the ground. The work of appropriation w^as equally rapid, and the empty bag was flung to the owner ; but a fit of compunction seizing them, they restored a knife, an awl, and a needle. On begging hard for his razors, they consented to give up one, and added enough of soap to shave him during the remainder of his journey, making him understand, that the surrender of these articles called for his warmest gratitude. As the cold weather approached, the party thus plundered suffered grievously from want of that warm deer, skin clothing used by the Indians at this season. A dress of this kind is rather costly, requiring the prime parts of from eight to eleven skins. These Ilearne at last managed to collect ; but as the In- dian women alone could prepare them, he was com- pelled to carry this load along with him from day to day, earnestly begging the natives at each successive resting-place to permit their wives to dress his skins, lie met, however, with a surly and uniform refusal ; and at last, after bearing the burden for several weeks, was forced to throw it off, and sustain the cold as he best could, without either skhi-clothing or snow^-shoes. When continuing their course in this forlorn condition to the south-east, they met with Captain Matonabbee, a powerful and intelligent chief, who was then on his way to Prince of Wales' Fort with furs and other articles of trade. It w^as this person who brought the accounts of the Copper- mine River, which induced the company to fit out the expedition, and he was naturally interested in its ir)() JIATOXABBEE S ADVICE. success. He evinced tlie utmost activity in reliev. ing their wants, furnished them with a warm suit of otter and otlier skins ; and, not being able to pro. vide tliem witli snow-shoes, directed them to a small range of woods, where tliey found materials for both shoes and sledges. IMatonabbee then treated tiio party to a feast, and took occasion in his con versa, tion with Hearne to explain the causes of his fai. lure, and to offer his assistance in a third expedition. He attributed all their misfortunes to the miscon- duct of the guide, and to their having no wonitii witli them. " In an expedition of this kind," said lie, " when all the men are so heavily laden that they can neither hunt nor travel to any considera. ble distance, in case they meet with success in hunt, ing, who is to carry the produce of their labour r Women were made for labour; one of them can carry or haul as much as two men can do. They also pitch our tents, make and mend our cloth, ing, keep us warm at night ; and in fact there is no such thing as travelling any considerable distance, or for any length of time, in this country without them ; and yet, though they do every thing, they are main- tained at a trifling expense ; for, as they always act the cook, the very licking of their fingers in scarce times is sufficient for their subsistence."'^ Assisted by this friendly chief, the English traveller again set forward, and after experiencing an intense degree of cold, by which the favourite dog in his sledge was frozen to death, he reached the fort on 25tli Novem. ber, having been absent eight months and twenty- two days. 3Iatonabbee arrived a few days after. Hearne's Journey, p. 55. HKAP.NE S THIRD JOURNEY. 151 ity ill relit'v. a warm suit g able to pro. em to a small rials for both treated tiit bis conversa- es of his fai. d expedition. ) the misc'oii. ig no -Nvonieii s kind," said ly laden that ly considera. :cess in hum. heir labour: of them can n do. They d our cloth, t there is no e distance, or thout them ; ey are maiii- y always act ters in scarce ■" Assisted ler again set ise degree of sledge was I) til Novem- iid twenty- lays after. Though twice compelled to return, Ilearne, whose spirit was not to \h) overcome by fatigue or disappoint- nwnt, offered liis services to proceed on a third jour- ney, which was ultimately crowned with success. For tliis he engaged JMatonabbee as guide, and de- clined taking any Home-guard Indians. Their place, however, was occupied, according to the principles already laid down, by seven of IMatonabbee's wives, who, by the assistance they afforded, diH no dis- paragement to the singular picture of female acti- vity wliich he had drawn. They set out on the Jtb of December, and notwithstanding frequent priva- tions, want of food, and intense cold, their suffer- ings were not so aggravated as in the former at- tempts. The country through which they passed towards the west was wild and barren, occasionallv covered with thick shrubby woods of stunted pine and dwarf juniper, studded with frequent lakes and swamps whose sides were fringed with willows. Through this ground they travelled in high spirits, but rather on short commons, owing to the scarcity of deer and the improvidence of the Indians, who consumed every thing in the store during the first days of their marcli, trusting to find a stock of provi- sions wiiich they had hid in a certain spot on their way to the fort. On reaching the place, however, they discovered that tlie provisions had been carried off; and the equanimity with which the Indians bore the disappointment, and travelled forward un- der the conjoined miseries of hunger and fatigue, was very striking. At last they succeeded in kill- ing a few deer, and halted to take some refresh- ment. For a whole day they never ceased eating, and an additional repast on two large buck-deer, 152 VORACITY OF TIIR GUIDES. whicfi they killt'd a ft'vv days after, at last fairly overcame Captain Matonabbee, who, after devour, ing at one sitting as mueh as would have satisfied six moderate men, seemed somewhat unreasonably astonished to find himself indisposed. Having recovered from the effects of this surfeit, they proceeded from Island Lake towards tlie main branch of the Cathawhachaga, which they crossed. and directing their course by Partridges Lake and Snow Bird Lake, arrived on the 2d IMarch at a large tent of Northern Indians, not far from tlh Doobaunt Whoie River. Although these peoplt had remained in the same spot since the beginiiiii:; of winter, they found a plentiful subsistence In catching deer in a pound. Their mode of acconi. plishing this is to select a well-frequented deor- path, and enclose with a strong fence of twisted trees and brushwood a spf.ce about a mile in circum- ference, and sometim vs more. The entrance of tin pound is not larger than a commo^i gate, and its inside is crowded with innumerable small hedges, in the openings of which are fixed snares of stronj.' well -twisted thongs. Cue end is generally fastened to a growing tree; and as all the wood and jungle within the enclosure is left standing, its interior forms a complete labyrinth. On each side of the door, a line of small trees, stuck up in the sno\v fifteen or twenty yards apart, form two sides of an acute angle, widening gradually fror^ tiie entrance, from which they sometimes extenc^ two or three miles. Between these rows of Irushwood runs the path frequented by the (\eer. When all things are prepared, tiie Indians take their station on some eminence commanding a prospect of this path, and CATCIIINO DKKR IN A POUND l.hi it last fairly 5^ after devour. ^ liave satisfied / unreasonably \ ' this surfeit, rds the main they crossed, ge Lake uiid IMarch at a far from tlii these peopl) he beginning bsistenoe hv ie of acconi. lented deer. ■e of twisted le in circuni. ranee of the ate, and its nail hed^^es, es of struiiii illy fastened and jungle its interior side of tile n the snow sides of an le entrance, C' three c»d runs the things are n on some i path, and the moment any deer are seen going that way, the whole encampment, men, women, and children, steal under cover of the woods till they get behind them. TiL'y then show themselves in the open ground, and, drawing up in the form of a cn'scent, advance with shouts. The deer finding themselves pursued, and at the same time imagining the rows of brushy poles to be people stationed to prevent their passing on either side, run straight forward till they get into the pound. The Indians instantly close in, block up the entrance, and whilst the wo- men and children run round the outside to prevent them from breaking or leaping the fence, the men enter with their spears and bows, and speedily de- spatch such as are caught in the snares or are run- ning loose.'^" On the Hth of April, they reached an island in a small lake named Thelewey-aza-weth, and pitch- ed their tent ; afid as the deer were numerous, and the party, which had been joined by various wan- dering Indians, now amounted to seventy persons, they determined to remain for some time, and make preparations for their enterprise in the ensuing sum- mer. They were busily employed during their in- tervals from hunting, in providing staves of birch about one and a quarter inch square and seven or eight feet long, wliich served for tent-poles all the summer, and were converted into snow-shoes in winter. Birch-rind, with timbers and other wood for canoes, formed also objects of attention ; and as Clowey, the place fixed upon for building their canoes, was still many miles distant, all the wood was reduced to its proper size to make it light for * Hearne's Journey, p. JB — UO. I 154 NORTHERN INDIAN '.VOMEN carriage. At this place IMatonabbee solaced himself by purchasing from some Northen Indians a lother wife, who for size and sinews rpi^ht have shamed a grenadier. ^' Take them in a body," says Hearne. " and the Indian women are as destitute of real beauty as those of any nation I ever saw, althougli there are some few of them when young who an tolerable; but the care of a family, added to their constant hard labour, soon make the most b' autiful amongst them look old and wrinkled, even befon they are thirty, and several of the more ordinary ones at that age are perfect antidotes to the tender passion, Ask a Northern Indian what is beauty? he will answer, a broad flat face, small eyes, high cheek- bones, three or four broad black lines across each cheek, a low forehead, a large broad chin, a hook nose, and a tawny hide. These beauties are greatly heightened, or at least rendered more valuable, il the possessor is capable of dressing all kinds of skins, and able to carry eight or ten stone in summer, and to haul a far greater weight in winter. Such and similar accoLnplishmenis are all that are sought after or expected in an Indian Northern woman. As to their temper, it is of little consequence; for the men have a wonderful facility in making the most stubborn comply with as much alacrity as could be expected from those of the mildest and most obliging turn of mind." ' Before starting from this station, Matonabbee took tlie precaution of sending in advance a small party with the wood and birch-rind ; they were directed to press forward to Clowey, a lake near the barren ground, and there build the boat, to be ready * Hearne's Journej^, pp. 8"J, 90. t'., TREATED WITH CRUELTY. 153 ced himself ans aiother e sliamed a ys Hearne. :ute of real V, althougli ng who arc [ed to their st b'jautiful even before dinar V ones ■ der passion. y? lie will ligh cheek- across each 'liin^ a hook 5 are greatly valuable, if ids of skins, mmer, and Such and are sought rn woman, uence ; for naking the alacritv as lildest and lalibee took 5111 all party re directed the barren be readv 1 \':. upon their arrival. When the journey was about to be resumed, one of the women was taken in la- bour. The moment the poor creature was delivered, " which," says Hearne, " was not till slie had suf- fered a severe labour of fifty-two hours," the signal was made for setting forward ; the mother took her infant on her back, and walked with the rest ; and though another person had the humanity to haul her sledge for one day only, she was obliged to carry a considerable load in addition to her little one, and was compelled frequently to wade knee- deep in water and wet snow. Amidst all this, her looks, pale and emaciated, and the moans v/hich burst from her, sulficiently proved the intolerable pain she endured, but produced no effect upon the hard hearts of her husband and his companions. When an Indian woman is taken in labour, a small tent is erected for her, at such a distance from the encampment that her cries cannot be heard, and the other women are her attendants, no male except children in arms ever offering to approach ; and even in the most critical cases no assistance is ever given, — a conduct arising from the opinion that nature is sufficient to perform all that is necessary. When Hearne informed them of the assistance de- x'ived by European women from the skill and at- tention of regular practitioners, their answer was ironical and characteristic. " No doubt," said they, " the many hump-backs, bandy legs, and other de- formities so common amongst you English, are owing to the great skill of the persons who assisted in bringing them into the world, and to the extra- ordinary care of their nurses afterwards."'- * Ileanie's Journey, [). 'J3. 156 ARRIVAL AT CLOWEY In eleven days tliey travelled a distance of eighty- five miles, and on 3d May arrived at Clowey, where they were joined by some strange Indians, and commenced the important business of building their canoes. The party sent ahead for this pur. pose arrived only two days before, and had made no progress in joining the timbers they had carried along with them. The whole tools used by an In- dian in this operation, in making snow-shoes and all other kinds of wood- work, are a hatchet, a knife, a file, and an awl ; but in the use of these they are very dexterous. In shape, their canoes bear some resemblance to a weaver's shuttle, having flat-bot- toms, with straight upright sides, and sharp at each end. The stern is the widest part, being con- structed for the reception of the baggage ; and occa- sionally it admits a second person, who lies at fuli length in the bottom of the little vessel, which sel- dom exceeds twelve or thirteen feet in length, and about twenty inches or two feet in breadth at the widest part. The forepart is unnecessarily long and narrow, and covered with birch-bark, which adds to the weight without contributing to the bur- den of the canoe. The Indians, for the most part, employ a single paddle ; double ones like those of the Esquimaux are seldom used unless by hunters, who lie in ambush for the purpose of killing deer as they cross rivers and narrow lakes. Upon the whole, their vessels, though formed of the same materials as those of the Southern Indians, are much smaller and lighter; and, from the extreme simplicity of build, are the best that could be contrived for the necessities of these poor savages, who are frequently obliged to carry them upon their back 100 and M JOINED BY MANY INDIANS. 157 (' of eighty- it Clowey, ge Indians, of building r this pur- had made had carried L by an In- -shoes and let, a knife, ?se they are bear some ng flat-bot- d sharp at being eon- ; and occa- lies at fuii ^ which sel- ength, and idth at the sarily long ark, whicli to the bur- most part, ke those of )y hunters, ing deer as the whole, materials ch smaller nplicity of ^ed for the frequently 100 and sometimes 150 miles, without having occasion to launch them. At (Mowey the expedition was joined by nearly 200 Indians from various quarters, most of whom built canoes there ; and on the 23d INIay, Mr Hearne and IMatonabboe, whose character and consequence effectually protected the white man from plunder, [)roceeded northward. For some time they met with no distresses, except those occasioned by the intense cold, which had been preceded by thunder-storms and torrents of rain. IMisfortune, however, now attacked JMatonabbee on the tender side of his eight wives, the handsomest of whom eloped in the night, accompanied by another woman. Both having been carried off by force, it was suspected they had fled to the eastward with the plan of rejoining their former husbands. Scai'ce had the savage polyga- mist recovered from this blow, when he experi- enced a fresh mortification : An Indian of great strength, from whom IMatonabbee a short time be- fore had purchased a stout, and therefore valuable wife, insisted on taking her back, unless he instantly surrendered a certain quantity of ammunition, a kettle, some pieces of iron, and other articles. The hardship of this case aro-" from an extraordinary custom, by which the men are permitted to wrestle for any woman to whom they are attached, the vic- torious party carrying off the prize. It is for this reason that the greatest emulation prevails in all athletic exercises among the young Indians ; and the children are perpetually seen trying their powers in wrestling, under the idea that this is the edu- cation which will chiefly benefit them when they grow up. A weak man seldom long retains a wife iri8 MATONABBEE S PRIDE. whose services another wants ; for when the help, mates of an able-bodied savage are too heavily laden with furs or provisions, he makes no scruple of seizinjj the spouse of his weaker neighbour, and transferring part of the burden to her back ; whilst, if the injured party cannot challenge the aggressor to a wrestling-matcli, he must not otherwise com- plain. The distress, therefore, of IMatonabbee upon this occasion may be easily accounted for, as he was wounded in his pride and in his property, if not in his affections. But a personal contest was out of the question, and he was obliged to purchase his favourite over again, by yielding up all that was de- manded by his antagonist. This affair had nearly proved a serious obstacle to the expedition ; for so bitterly did the chief resent the affront, entertaining the highest ideas of his personal consequence, that he had resolved, like a Coriolanus of the New World, to renounce all farther alliance with his countrymen and join the Athabasca Indians, among whom he had formerly resided. But Hearne strenuously op- |)0sed this project, and at last succeeded in dissuad- ing him from it.* Having agreed to proceed, IMatonabbee, for the better prosecution of the ejiterprise, determined to make some new arrangements : He selected his two youngest wives, who were unencumbered with chil- dren, as alone worthy to accompany him, whilst the remainder, with all their luggage and a considerable number of the men, were commanded to await tlie return of the party from the Coppermine River. This change of plan, however, was not carried througli * Hearne's Journey, pp. Ill, 112. THE PARTY CROSS THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. ir>9 I the help- ivily laden scruple of bour, and k ; whilst, t» aggressor •wise com- ibbee upon , as he was r, if not in was out of irchase his lat was de- had nearly ion ; for so ntertaining ice, that he lew World, ountrymen whom he luously op- u dissuad- ■ie, for the rmined to ed his two wath chil- whilst the msiderable await the iver. This d through It without diftieulty. Wlien tiie hour of separation came, and Matonabbee and Ilearne set out in the evening of .'ilst ^lay, a low murmur of lamentation proceeded from the tents of the women who were left i)ehind, which, running through all the notes of in- creasing grief, at last burst into a loud yell. This continued as long as the party were in sight ; nor was it without much angry expostulation that some of them were prevented from following their hus- bands. The Indians, however, regarded all this, which deeply affected their European associate, with indifference, walking forward without casting be- hind them a single look or word of sympatjiy, and joyfully congratulating themselves on getting rid of the women, dogs, ciiildren, and other encumbrances, which added so greatly to the toil of the journej\ One article they all carried, although to Hearne it appeared unnecessary, considering the expedition to l)e pacific, — this was a target of thin boards two feet broad and about three feet long. On inquir- ing for what purpose these shields were to be used, lie discovered that the main consideration which reconciled the Indians to this expedition was the hope of attacking and murdering the Esquimaux who frequented the Coppermine River, between whom and the other Indian tribes there had long existed a deadly enmity. All the arguments em- ployed by Hearne were insufficient to dissuade them from these hostile intentions. The party having crossed the arctic circle ar- rived at Cogead Lake, which they found frozen over ; so that they traversed its creeks and bays with- out the aid of their canoes. Thence they directed their course due north till thev met with a branch 1(J() COPPER INDIANS. of the Congecathawhacliaga River, where some Copper Indians received tliem with great kindness, and readily sent all tlieir canoes to their assistance, — a piece of courtesy particularly seasonable, as the ice had now broken up. To these Indians Hearne explained the object of his journey, and his guide being personally known to them they treated the party, which consisted of 150 persons, with distin- guished honour; — a feast was given, the English traveller smoked with them his calumet of peace, and their chiefs expressed the greatest anxiety that a Eu- ropean settlement should be established in the neigh- bourhood of the Coppermine River. They acknow- ledged they had never found the sea at the mouth of the river free from ice ; but with singular sim- plicity seemed to consider this a very trifling objec- tion, observing, that the water was always so smooth between the ice and the shore, that even small boats could sail there with great ease ; and inferring, that what a canoe could do, a large ship must be sure to accomplish. As Hearne was the first white man they had seen, he was surrounded by numbers, who examined him with the utmost minuteness. The result, however, was satisfactory ; for they at last pronounced him to be a perfect human being, ex- cept in the colour of his hair and eyes: the first they insisted was like the stained hair of a buffalo's tail, and the last, being light, were compared to those of a gull. The whiteness of his skin also was a circumstance on which they demurred a little, ob- serving, that it looked like meat which had been sodden in water till all the blood was extracted. He continued, however, to be viewed with a mixture of curiosity and admiration, and at his toilet was gene- 5 i VARIATIONS IN THE CLIMATK. Kil lere some kindness, assistance, ble, as the IS Hearne liis guide reated the ith distin- le English peace, and that a Eu- theneigh- y acknow- the mouth gular sim- fling objec- s so smooth small boats ?rring, that st be sure white man nbers, who less. The ley at last being, ex- the first a buffalo's m pared to also was a little, ob- had been icted. He ixture of was gene- rally attended by a body of the Indians, who, when he used his comb, asked for the hairs which came off. These they carefully wrapped up, saying, "' When I see you again, you shall again see your iiair."^ On reaching Congecathawhachaga in latitude 08 4f)' north, Matonabbee deemed it expedient to leave all the women, taking the precaution to kill as many deer as were necessary for their support during his absence. The flesh was cut into thin slices and dried in the sun, — a frequent mode of preserving it in these high northern latitudes, by which it is kept palatable and nourishing for a twelvemonth. Having completed these arrangements, the party resumed their journey on the 1st of July, proceed- ing amidst dreadful storms of snow and occasional torrents of rain, which drenched them to the skin, through a barren and desolate country, where it was impossible with the wet moss and green brush- wood to kindle a fire. Compelled to take shelter in caves at night, — for they had no tents, — obliged to eat their meat raw, with the enjoyment of no higher luxury than a pipe, they yet pushed forward with unshaken perseverance, and after a week of great suffering, had the comfort to observe a complete change in the weather, which first became moderate, and soon after so sultry that it was sometimes im- possible to move at all. Early on the morning of 13th July, the expedi- tion crossed a long chain of hiMs, from the top of which they discerned a branch that joins the Cop- permine about forty miles from its influx into the * Hearne's Journey, p. 122. ■4 I 1G2 INDIAN COOKERY. sea. Here tlie Indians killed a few fine buck-deer, procured some excellent firewood, and, as it was not certain that so favourable an opportunity would soon occur again, they sat down with appetites sharpened by long privation, spirits raised by the re- collection of hardships overcome, and the almost certain prospect of ere long accomplishing the great object of their expedition, to the most cheerful and comfortable meal they had enjoyed for a long period. The reader will be amused with Hearne's descrip. tion of this delicious repast, and of the mysteries ot Indian cookery : " As such favourable opportunities of indulging tlie appetite," says he, " happen but seldom, it is a general rule with the Indians, whidi we did not neglect, to exert every art in dressing,' their food which the most refined skill in Indian cooking has been able to invent, and which consists chiefly in boiling, broiling, and roasting ; but of all the dishes cooked by these people, a becatee, as it is (?aiied in their language, is certainly the most de. licious (at least for a change) which can be pre. pared from a deer only without any other ingredient, It is a kind of Scotch ' haggis' made with the blood. a good quantity of fat shred small, some of the ten- derest of the flesh, together with the heart and lungs, cut or more commonly torn into small shivers, — all which is put into the stomach and roasted, by being suspended over the fire by a string. Care must be taken that it does not get too much heat at first, as the bag would thereby be liable to be burnt and the contents let out. When it is suffi- ciently done it vv^ill emit a rich steam, in the same manner as a fowl or a joint of meat, which is as juucli a^ to say ' Come eat me now !' and if it be TUK COPPERMINE RIVER. 1G3 buck-deer, as it was lity would appetites [ by the re- tlie almost g the great j leerful and ong period, e's descrip. iiysteries ot )portunities lappen but iaiis, whicli in dressini: in Indian ieh consists ; but of all itee, as it is e most de. an be pre- ingredient. 1 the blood, of the ten- heart and [lall shivers, roasted, by ing. Care much heat iable to be it is suffi- * n the same vhich is as id if it be taken in time, before the blood or the contents are too much done, it is certainly a most delicious morsel, even without pepper, salt, or any other seasoning."* Having regaled themselves in this sumptuous manner, and taken a few hours' rest, they once more set out, and after a walk of nine or ten miles, at last arrived at the Coppermine. Scarcely had Ilearne congratulated himself on reaching the great object of his mission, unpacked his surveying in- struments, and pre[)ared to follow its progress to the great Arctic Ocean, when one of those dark and terrible scenes occurred which are so strik- ingly characteristic of savage life. As soon as Ma- tonabbee and his party gained the banks of the river, three spies were sent out to discover whether any Esquimaux were in the neighbourhood. Af- ter a short absence they returned with intelligence that they had seen five tents, about twelve miles distant on the wTst side of the river. All was now warlike preparation ; the guns, knives, and spears, were carefully examined ; and as they learned that the nature of the ground would render it easy to ad- vance unperceived, it was determined to steal upon their victims in this manner, and put them 1 3 death. This plan was executed with the most savage exact- ness; and nothing could present a more dreadful view of human nature in its unenlightened state, than the perfect unanimity of purpose which pervad- ed the whole body of Indians upon this horrid oc- casion, although at other times they were in no re- spect amenable to discipline. Each man first painted his target, some with a re- presentation of the sun, others of the moon, and se- * Hearne's Journey, p. 144. ,:s 1()4 ATTACK ON THE ESQUIMAUX. vera! with the pictures of beasts and birds of prey, or of imaginary beings, which they aflirmed to be the inhabitants of the elements, upon whose assistance they relied for success in their enterprise. They then moved with the utmost stealth in the direction of the tents, taking care not to cross any of the hills which concealed their approach. It was a miserable circum- stance that these poor creatures had taken up their abode in such ground that their enemies, without l)eing observed, formed an ambuscade not 200 yards distant, and lav for some time watching the mo. tionsofthe Esquimaux, as if marking their victims. Here the last preparations for the attack were made: The Indians tied up their long black hair in a knot behind, lest it should be blown in their eyes ; paint- ed their faces bla*-^ and red, which gave them a hideous aspec* ; dn . oerately tucked up the sleeves of their jackets close under the armpits, and pulled off their stockings; whilst some, still more eager to render themselves light for running, threw off their jackets, and stood with their weapons in their hands quite naked, except their breech-clothes and shoes. By the time all were ready it was near one o'clock in the morning; when, finding the Esquimaux quiet, they rushed from their concealment. Ii an instant, roused by the shouts of the savages, the unfortunate wretches, men, women, and children, ran naked out of the tents, and attempted to escape ; but the In. dians had surrounded them on the land side, and as none dared to leap into the river, all were mur- dered in cold blood ; whilst Hearne, whom a regard for his personal safety had compelled to ai company the party, stood a short way off rooted to the ground in horror and agony. DREADFUL MASSACRK. IG"! 5 of prey, or id to be the i assistance Thev then ction of tlu liills wliich ble circuiii- en up tlieir es, vvitliout t 200 yards ng tlie 1110- eir victims. ivere made : ir in a knot yes; paint- ive them a the sleeves and pulled re eager to ew off their their hands and shoes. one o'clock naux quiet. an instant, infortunat<' I naked out )ut the In- i side, and were mur- ni a regard aicompany the ground " The shrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretclies, " says he, in his striking account of this dreadful episode in savage life, " were truly dis- tressinir: and ni\ horror was much increased at see- ing a young girl, about eighteen years of age, killed so near me that wlw the first spear was struck in- to her side she fell down at my feet and twisted round my legs, so that it was with dilliculty that I could disengage myself from her dying grasps. As two Indian im n pursued this unfortunate vic- tim, I .solicited very hard for her life; but the mur- derers made no reply till they had stuck hoth their spears through her hudy and transfixed her to the ground. They then looked me sternly in the face, and l)egan to ridicule me by asking if I wanted an Esquimaux wife, whilst they paid not the smallest regard to the shrieks and agony of the poor wretch, who was turning round iheir spears like an eel. Indeed, after receiving from them much abusive language on the occasion, I was at length obliged to desire that they would be more expeditious in de- spatching their victim out of her misery, otherwise I should be obliged out of pity to assist in the friendly oflice of putting an end to the existence of a fellow- creature who was so cruelly wounded. On this re- quest being made, one of the Indians hastily drew his spear from the place where it was first lodged, and pierced it through her breast near the heart. The love of life, however, even in this most mise- rable state, was so Mredominant, that though this might be justly called the most merciful act which could be done for the poor c!\ ature, it seemed to be unwelcome; for, though much exhau ^ d by pain and loss of blood, she made several efforts to ward ■i t^llJt. \m ( 0PPER-MINE8. off the friendly blow. INIy situation and the terror of my mind at bclioldin^f this InitclicTy cannot easily l)eeonceived, much less described : thou^di I summed up all th(( fortitude I was master of on the occasion, it was with difliculty that I could refrain from tears , and I am confident that my features must have fet;!- ingly expressed how sincerely I was aff(»cted at the barbarous scene I then witnessed. Even at this hour I cannot reflect on the transactions of that horrid day without shedding tears."* After making an accurate survey of the rivor till its junction with the sea, Hearne proceeded to one of the copper-mines, which he found scarcely to deserve the name, it being nothing more than a chaotic mass of rocks and gravel, rent by an earth- quake, or some other convulsion, into numerous fis- sures, through one of which flowed a small river. Although the Indians had talked in magnificent terms of this mine, after a search of four hours a solitary piece of ore was all that could be discovered ; and instead of pointing out the hills entirely com- posed of copper, and the quantities of rich ore with which they had affirmed it would be easy to freight a large vessel, they now told a ridiculous story of some insults offered to the goddess of the mine, who in revenge declared that she would sit upon it till she and it sunk together into the earth. In conse- quence of this threat, they next year (bund her sunk up to the waist, and the quantity of copper much de- creased, whilst the following summer she had entire- ly disappeared, and the whole mine along with her. In reaching the sea, Hearne had accomplished tlif • Hearne's Journey, pp. 154, 155. I i f id thr terror unnol easily h I sumiiK'd ho occasion, from tears , st have feel, ected at the ven at this ons of that f the river )roceeded to lid scarcely nore than a »y an earth- imerous fis- small river, magnificent ur liours a discovered ; tirely com- ch ore with y to freight •us storv of mine, wlio upon it till In conse- d her sunk r much de- lad entire- with her. plished tilt; ATHABASCA LAKK. 107 "reat object of hi.s joiirnev, and his homeward route did not vary materially from his course to the Arctic Ocean. On lilst July, they arrived at the place wluTe the Indians had left their families, and on !)th August resumed their course to the south- west ; travelling with frecjuent intervals of rest till, on 24tli November, they reached the northern shore of the great Athahasv.'a Lake. In this lati- tude, at this season, the sun's course formed an ex- tremelv small seirment of a circle above the horizon, scar»'ely rising halfway up the trees; but the bril- liancy of the stars, and th<' vivid and beautiful light emitted by the aurora boreal is, even without tlie aid of the moon, amply compensat(Hl for the want of the sun, so that at midnight Ilearne could see to read very small print. In the deep stillness of the night, also, these northern meteors were distinctly heard to make a rushing and crackling noise, like the waving of a large flag in a fresh gale of wind. • According to the information of the natives, the Athabasca Lake is nearly 120 leagues long from east to west, and twenty wide from north to south. It was beautifully studded with islands, covered with tall poplars, birch, and pines, which were plen- tifully stocked with deer, and abounded with pike, trout, and barbie, besides the species known by the Indians under the names of tittameg, methy, and shees. The country through which they had liitherto travelled had been extremely barren and hilly, co- vered with stunted firs and dwarf willows ; but it now subsided into a fine plain, occasionally varied * Hearne's Journey, p. 224. II 168 KXTRAORDINARY S:ORY with tall woods, and well stocked with buffalo and moose-deer. The party spent some days with much pleasure in hunting ; and as the flesh of the younger buffaloes was delicious, their exhausted stock of provisions was seasonably supplied. In one of their excursions an incident occurred strikingly characteristic of savage life : The Indians came suddenly on the track of a strange snow-shoe, and following it to a wild part of the country, remote from any human habitation, they discovered a hut, in which a young Indian woman was sitting alone. She had lived for the last eight moons in absolute solitude, and recounted with affecting simplicity the circumstances by which she had been driven from her own people : She belonged, she said, to the tribe of the Dog-ribbed Indians, and in an inroad of the Athabasca nation, in the summer of 1770, had been taken prisoner. The savages, according to their in- variable practice, stole upon the tents in the night, and murdered before her face her father, mother, and husband, whilst she and three other young women were reserved from iht slaughter, and made captive. Her child, four or five months old, she contrived to carry with her, concealed among some clothing ; but on arriving at the place where the party had left their wives, her precious bundle was examined by the Athabasca women, one of whom tore the infant from its mother, and killed it on the spot. In Europe, an act so inhuman would, in all pro- bability, have been instantly followed by the in- sanity of the parent ; but in North America, though maternal affection is equally intense, the nerves are more sternly strung. So horrid a cruelty, however, determined her, though the man whose property she OP AN INDIAN WOaiAN. I()i) buffalo ami I with much the younger dd stock of In one of L strikingly dians came v-shoe, and try, remote /ered a hut, tting alone, in absolute mplicity the driven from to the tribe iroad of the 0, had been to their in- 1 the night, Tiother^ and mg women ide captive. :ontrived to thing ; but •ty had left examined n tore the n the spot, in all pro- by the in- ica, thougli nerves are , liowever, operty she liad become was kind and careful of her, to take the first opportunity of escaping, with the intention of returning to her own nation ; but the great dis- tance, and the numerous winding rivers and creeks she had to pass, caused her to lose the way, and winter coming on, she had built a hut in this se- cluded spot. When discovered, she was in good liealtli, well fed, and in the opinion of Hearne, one of tile finest Indian women he had ever seen. Five or six inches of hoop made into a knife, and the iron shank of an arrow-head which served as an awl, were the only implements she possessed; and with these she made snow-shoes and other useful articles. For subsistence she snared par- tridges, rabbits, and squirrels, and had killed two or three beavers and some porcupines. After the few deer-sinews she had brought with her were ex- pended in making snares and sewing her clothing, she supplied their place with the sinews of rab- bits' legs, which she twisted together with great dexterity. Thus occupied, she not only became re- conciled to her desolate situation, but had found time to amuse herself by manufacturing little pieces of personal ornament. Her clothing was formed of rabbit-skins sewed together ; the materials, though rude, being tastefully disposed, so as to make her garb assume a pleasing though desert-bred appear- ance. The singular circumstances under which she was found, her beauty and useful accomplishments, occasioned a contest among the Indians, as to who should have her for a wife ; and the matter being decided, she accompanied them in their journey. On 1st iMarcli, they left the level country of the Athabascas, and approached the stony hills bound- ! i 170 NORTH-WEST FUR COMPANY. 'm^ tlie territories of the Northern Indians, traversing which they arrived in safety at Prince of Wales' Fort on the 29th of June 1772, having been absent eighteen months and twenty-three days. The journey of Hearne must be regarded as form, ing an important era in the geography of America. For some time it had been supposed that this vast (ontinent extended in an almost unbroken mass towards the Pole ; and we find it thus depicted in the maps of that period. The circumstance of Hearne having reached the shore of the great Arc. tic Ocean at once demonstrated the fallacy of al! such ideas. It threw a new and clear light upon the structure of this portion of the globe, and resting upon the results thus distinctly ascertained, the hu- man mind, indefatigable in the pursuit of knowledge, started forward in a career of still more enlarged and interesting discovery.* Whilst the Hudson's Bay Company, by the mission of Mr Hearne, vindicated their character from the charge of indifference to the cause of geo- graphical discovery^ another institution had arisen under the title of the North-West Fur Company, which, though it did not rest on a royal charter, and had experienced in its earliest exertions many se- vere reverses, at last arrived, by the intelligence and perseverance of its partners and servants, at a de- gree of prosperity which surpassed the chartered companies of France and England. In the count- ing-house of Mr Gregory, a partner of this company, was bred a native of Inverness, named Alexander Mackenzie. In conducting the practical details of * Mnrray's Disco verk's and Travels in North America, vol. ii. |>. 141). SIR ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. 171 , traversing } of Wales' 3een absent led as form. 3f America, at this vast roken mass depicted in imstance of ; great Arc. illacy of all light upon and resting led, the Iiu- ' knowledge, ire enlarged iiy, by the ir character ,use of geo- Iiad arisen r Company, :'harter, and is many se- igeiice and s, at a de- chartered the count, is company, Alexander il details of I I 1, vol. II. I' 14i). the fur-trade, he had been settled at an early period of life in the country to the north-west of Lake Superior, and became animated with the ambition of penetrating across the continent : For this under-, taking he was eminently qualified, possessing an in- quisitive and enterprising mind with a strong frame of body, and combining the fervid and excursive ge- nius which has been said to characterize the Scots in general, with that more cautious and enduring tem- perament which belongs to the northern Highlander. On 3d June 1789, IMackenzie set out from Fort Chepewyan, at the head of the Athabasca Lake, a station nearly central between Hudson's Bay and the Pacific. He had resided here for eight years, and wa^s familiar with the difficulties of the journey as well as aware of the most likely methods of surmounting them. He took with him four canoes. In the first he embarked with a German and four Canadians, two of the latter being accompanied by their wives. A Northern Indian, called the English Chief, who had been a follower of IMatonabbee the guide of Mr Hearne, occupied the second with his two wives. The third was paddled by two stout young Indians, who acted in the double capacity of hunters and in- terpreters ; whilst the fourth was laden with pro- visions, clothing, ammunition, and various articles intended as presents for the Indians. This last canoe was committed to the charge of IMr le Roux, one of the company's clerks. On 4tli June, the party reached the Slave River, which connects the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, in a course of about I70 miles; and on the 9th of the sa.'ui' month they arrived at the Slave Lake, without experiencing any other inconveniences than 172 .MACKENZIE S FIRST JOURNEY. those arising from the attacks of tlie mosquitoes during the heat of the day, and the extreme cold in the morning and evening. In the river wen frequent rapids, which obliged them to land and transport their canoes and luggage over the car- rying-places, — a toilsome process, but attended witli no danger, as the path had been cleared by thi Indians trading with the company. The banks were covered with various kinds of trees ; but. owing to its inferior level and its rich black soil, the western side was more thickly wooded than the other. On the eastern bank, composed of a yellow clay mixed with gravel, the trees were smaller, but in full leaf, though the ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in depth. At a littlt distance from the river were extensive plains fre- quented by herds of buffaloes ; the woods bordering its sides were tenanted by moose and rein deer; and numerous colonies of beavers built their ha- bitations on the small streams which fed the lake. This large body of water was covered with ice, which had not given way except in a small strip round the shore, where the depth, nowhere exceeding thref feet, was scarcely sufficient to float the canoes. Though now the 9th of June, there was every ap- pearance that the ice would detain the expedition for a considerable time ; and it was thought neces- sary to pitch their tents. The nets were now set ; the Indians went off in different directions to hunt; the women gathered berries of various sorts, which abounded in the neighbouring woods ; and their larder was soon supplied with plenty of geese, ducks, and beaver, excellent trout, carp, and white fish, and some dozens of swan and duck eg'" -v^ich were RED KNIFK INDIANS. m mosquitoes 'xtreme cold river were to land and *^er the car- ttended witli ared by the The banks trees ; but. 1 black soil, vooded than nposed of a trees were und was not At a little 'i plains fre- )ds bordering I rein deer; ilt their ha- 'ed the lake, 1 ice, which strip round ceding three the canoes, as every ap- expedition )ught neces- re now set ; )ns to hunt ; sorts, which and their eese, ducks, white fish, -v^ich were picked up in an adjac«'nt island. Their stay, there- fore, was far from unpleasant, combininfi; tho novelty of a residence in a strange coimtry with the excita- tion and variety of a hunter's life ; and on the 15th, after a rest cf six days, as the ice had given way u little, they resumed their journey. Since leaving Athabasca, the twilight had been so bright, owing to the short disappearance of the sun below the horizon, that even at midnight not a star was to be seen ; but as they glided along the lake they were greeted by the moon, which rose beautifully above the woods, with her lower horn in a state of eclipse. The obscuration continued for about six mi]iutes in a cloudless skv.* Coasting along the shore, they came to a lodge of Red Knife Indians, so denominated from their using copper knives. One of these men engaged to conduct them to the mouth of the river which was the object of their search ; but such were the impediments en- countered from drift-ice, contrary winds and the ignorance of the guide, whom the English Chief threatened to murder for engaging in a service for which he was unfit, that it was the 29tli of the month before they embarked upon the river since known by the name of the traveller who now^ first ascended it. On leaving the lake, the Mac- kenzie River was found to run to the westward, becoming gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it diminished into a stream not more than half a mile wide, with a strong current, and a depth of three and a half fathoms. A stiff breeze from the eastward now drove them on at a great rate, and Mackenzie'a Travels, [h 11. 174 MACKENZIE RIVER. after a rapid run of ten miles, the . Iiannel gradu- ally widened till it assumed the appearance of a small lake, which proved to be the utmost limit known to their guide. They now came in sight of the chain of the Horn Mountains, bearing north-west, and had some difficulty in recovering the channel of the river. Having resumed their course on 1st July, thev met with no interruption for five days, when they observed several smokes on the northern bank. On landing they discovered an encampment of five fa- milies of Slave and Dog-ribbed Indians, who on the first appearance of the party fled into the woods in consternation. The entreaties of the English Chief, whose language they understood, at length dissipated their apprehensions ; and the distribution of a few beads, rings, and knives, with a supply of grog, re- conciled them entirely to the strangers. Their ac- count of the difficulties in the farther navigation of the river was not a little appalling : They asserted that it would require several winters to reach the sea, and that old age would inevitably overtake tlie party before their return. iMonsters of horrid shapes and malignant disposition were represented as hav- ing their abodes in the rocky caves on the banks, ready to devour the presumptuous traveller who ap- proached ; and the more substantial impediment of two impassable falls was said to exist about thirty days' march from where they then were. Though such tales were treated with contempt by Mackenzie, the Indians, already tired of the voyage, drank them in with willing ears, and they could scarcely be persuaded to pursue their jour- ney. On consenting to proceed, one of the Dog- SLAVP] AND DOG-RIBBKD INDIANS. 175 nel gradu- iranco of a most limit sight of the north- west, lie channel July, thev when thev bank. On of five fa- who on the le woods in glish Chief, h dissipated )n of a few of grog, re- Their ac- IV i gat ion of lev asserted reach the >vertake tlie orrid shapes ed as hav- j the banks, 3 or who ap- i| lediment of bout thirty h contempt ired of the s, and they j their jour- ! f the Dog- I ribbed Indians was induced, by the present of a kettle, an axe, and some other articles, to accom- pany them as a guide ; l)ut when the time of em- l)arkation arrived, his love of home came upon him with such violence, that lie used everv artifice to escape from his agreement, and at last was ac- tually forced on board. Previous to his departure, a singular ceremony took place : With great solem- nity he cut off a lock of his hair, and dividing it into three parts, fastened one to the upper part of his wife's head, blowing on it thrice with the ut- most violence, and uttering certain words as a charm. The other two locks he fixed with the same cere- monies to the heads of his two children. These Indians were in general a m<'agre, ugly, and ill- favoured race, particularly ill-made in the legs. Some of them wore their hair very long, others al- lowed a tress to fall behind, cutting the rest short round their ears. A lew old men had beards, whilst the young and middle-aged appeared to have pulled out every hair on their chin. Each cheek was adorned by two double lines tattooed from the ear to the nose, of which the gristle was perforated so as to admit a goose-quill or a small piece of wood. Their clothing consisted of dressed deer-skins. For winter wear these were prepared with the fur, and the shirts made of them decorated with a neat 'Em- broidery, composed of porcupine-quills and the hair of the moose-deer, coloured red, black, yellow, or white. Their shirts reached to the mid-thigh, whilst their upper garments covered the whole body, having a fringe round the bottom. Their leggins, which were embroidered round the ankle and sewed to their shoes, reached to 11: id-thigh. The dress of the wo- 176 GREAT BEAR LAKE RIVER. men was nearly tlie same as tliat of tlie men. They wore gorgets of liorn or wood, and liad bracelets of the same materials. On their head was placed a fillet or bandeau, formed of strips of leather, em- broidered riclily with porcupine-quills, and stuck round with bear's claws or talons of wild fowl. Their belts and garters were neatly constructed of the sinews of wild animals and porcupine-quills. From these belts descended a long fringe composed of strings of leather, and worked round with hair of various co. lours, and their mittens hung from their neck in a position convenient for the reception of their hands. ■ Their arms and weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, spt.'ars, daggers, and a large club form- ed of the rein-deer horn, called a pogamagan. The bows were about five or six feet long, with strings of sinews ; and flint, iron, or copper, supplied barbs to the arrows. Their spears, nearly six feet long, were pointed with bone, whilst their stone-axes were fastened with cords of green skin to a wooden handle. Their canoes w^re light, and so small as to carry only one person. On r)th July, the party re-embarked. Continuing their course west-south-west, they passed the Great Bear Lake River ; and steering through numerous islands, came in sight of a ridge of snowy moun- tains, frequented, according to their guide, by herds of bears and small white buffaloes. The banks of the river appeared to be pretty thickly peopled ; and though at first the natives uniformly attempted to escape, the offer of presents generally brought them back, and procured a seasonable supply of * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 35—37. 7 AMERICAN MUSIC. 177 jn. Tliov racelets of as placed itlier, em- incl stuck vild fowl, ctedofthc lis. From i of strings .'arious co- neck in a Ar hands." kvere bows 'lub form- gaii. The :itli strings plied barbs : feet long, stone-axes ) a wooden small as 'ontinuing the Great numerous kvy moun- L by herds [e banks of peopled ; J attempted ly brought supply of hares, partridges, fish, or rein-deer. The same sto. riesof spirits or nianitous which haunted the stream, and of fearful rapids tlat would dash the canoes to pieces, were repeated by these tribes ; and the uuide, upon whom such n'presentations had a powerful ef- fect, decaniju'd in the ni^^lit during a storm of thun- der and lightnin*,^ His place, however, was soon sup- plied ; and, after a short sail, they approached an en- campment of Iiidinns, whose brawny figures, healthy ap[)earance, and great cleanliness, showed them to he a superior race to those lately passed. From them Mackenzie learnt that he must sleep ten nights be- fore arrivinir at the sea, and in three nights would me(;t the Esquimaux, with whom they had been formerly at war, hut were now in a state of |)eace. One of these })eopIe, whose language was most in- telligible to the interpreter, agrecid to accompany the party; but became dreadfully alarmed when some of the men discharged their fowling-pieces. It was evident none of this race had ever heard the rej)ortof fire-arms. To reconcile him to his de- parture, his two brothers followed in their canoes, and diverted aim with native songs, and other airs said to be imitations of those of the Esquimaux. The triumph of music was never more strikingly ( xhibited ; from deep dejection the Indian at once passed into a state of the highest and most ludicrous excitement, keeping time to the songs by a variety of grotesque gesticulations, performed with such unceas- ing rapidity and so little regard to the slenderness of the l)ark, which quivered under his weight, that they expected every moment to see it upset. In one of his paroxysms, shooting his canoe alongside oi' iMackenzie's, he leaped into it^ and commenced an L 17« QUAIlllKLLKU INDIANS. Esquimaux dance. At last lie was restored to sonio degree of ('()ni|)(>sure, \vljieh beeaine complete on their i)assinj^r a hill, where he informed them that three winters ago the Ksquimaux had slain his grandfather.'^ INIackenzie soon after reached the tents of a tribe named Deijiithee-Dinees, or Quarrellers, who justi- Tied their name by the menacing gestures with which they received the strangers' approach. Afewpresents, however, reconciled them to the intrusion ; and they communicated tin' gratifying intelligence that the distance overland to the sea, either by an easterly or westerly route, was inconsiderable. The party now pushed on with renewed hopes; and the river soon after separating into scAcral streams, they chose the middle and largest, which ran north. This shortly brought in sight a range of snowy mountains, stretch, ing far to the northward; and, by an observation, Mackenzie found the latitude to be (i7° 47', which convinced him that the waters on which their frail barks were then gliding must flow into the great Hyperborean ()c( an.t At this moment, when with- in a few days of accomplishing the great object ot their journey, the Indians sunk into a fit of despon- dency^ and hesitated to proceed. The guide plead- ed his ignorance of the country, as he had never be- fore penetrated to the shores of the Benahulla Toe, or White i\Ian's Lake. IMackehzie assured them he would return if they did not reach it in seven days, and prevailed on them to continue their course. It was now the 11th of July, and the sun at mid- night was still considerably above the horizon, whilst * Mackenzie's Travels, p. ol. -f- Ibid. p. 54. i' • i I ;■ P:S(iUIMAtTX HOUSES. l/D imI to sonio niplcti* on tht'in tluit slain his , of a trilx' who jiisti- ,vitli whicli w presents, ; and tlicy •e that tlu' easterly or > party now ; river soon V chose the 'his shortly ins, streteli- bservation, 47', whicli their frail ) the great kvlienwith- t object of of despon- lide plead- ll never be- ll ul la Toe, ured them t in seven lieir course, un atniid- on, whilst [id. p. 54. J ■< every thinu »lenoted the proximity of the sea. On laiidini; at a deserted ('iicainpnient, still marked by the ashes of some Ks(|iiim{iux iires, they observed se- v<'ral piecesof whalebone, and a place where train-oil had lieeii spilt. Soon after they cam( to three houses recently left by the natives. The <,Tound-plot of these habitations was ov.al, ai)OUt (il'teen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either end ; the whole was duuahout twelve inches below thesur- fac<', one iialf being covered with willow-branches, and probably forming the bed of the whole family. In the middleof the (,lher half, a space four feet wide, which had been hollowed to the depth of twelve inches, wjis the only spot where a grown person could stand upright. One side of it was covered with willow-branches, and the other formed the hearth. The door, in one end of the house, was about two feet and a half high by two feet wide, and was reached through a covered way about five feet long ; so that the only access to this curious dwelling was by creeping on all fours. On the top was an ori- fice about eighteen inches square, which served the triple purpose of a window, a chimney, and an oc- casional door. The under-ground part of the floor was lined with split wood, whilst cross pieces of timber, laid on six or eight upright stakes, supported an oblong square roof; th<' whole being formed of drift- wT)od, and covered with branches and dry grass, over whicli was spread earth a foot thick. On either side of these houses w'ere a few square holes, about two feet deep, covered with split wood and earth, ex- cepting one small place in the middle^ which appear- ed to be contrived for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about the houses lay IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ «/. f/u ^ y. "% ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 Ifl^ IIIIIM •^^ 1^ ill 2.2 1^ 2.0 II t o •J U 1111.6 ■ i ^ 'V .^ VJ ^ /. -^c?^! c^^^ ■e: > V O y/f /A ^^J^ ^^ /m Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14530 (716) 872-4503 ' .J* V^ >? ^ A. w. i i ]H() DISAPPKARANCi: (?I VKGKTATIOX. slcdfTo-runiiLTs, and l)()n('s, pieces of wlialebone, and poplar-bark cut in circles, used evidently to buoy the nets ; and before eacli liabitation a jfreat number of stumps of trees were driven into the ground, upon wliich its late possessors bad probably him*; their nets and fish to dry in the sun. The sifrns of vcfjctation were by this time scarcely perceptible ; the trees had dwindled into a few dwarl" willows, not more than three feet hijjfh ; and thouirli the foot-marks on the sandy beach of some of the islands showed that the natives had n'centlv bet ii there, all attempts to obtain a si^dit of them proved unavailin^r. The discontent of the (juicte and of tJK Indian hunters was now renewed ; but their asser- tion, that on the morrow they were to reach a larirc lake in which the Esquimaux killed a hui(<' fish, and whose shores were inhabit<'d by white bears, con- vinced IMackenzie that this description referred to the Arctic Sea, with its mi'dity denizen the whale. He accordinjily pressed forward with fresh ardour, and tliC canoes were soon carried hy the current to the entrance of the lake, which, from all the accom- panying cin umstanc<'s, appears to have been an arm of the Arctic Ocean. It was quite op( n to the westward, and by an observation the latitude was found to be (51)°. From the spot where this survey was taken they now continued their course to the westernmost point of a high island, which they reached after a run of fifteen miles, and around it the utmost depth of water v»as only five feet. Tin lake aj)peared to be covered with ice for about two leagues' distance, no land was seen ahead, and it was found impossible to proceed fiirther. Ha])pily. when they had thus reached the farthest point ol MA( KKNZIK HKACIIKS TIIK AIICTK SJ:A. un ['bono, and biiov tlu' • number ol and, upon luoir their no scaroolv fow dwarf iiid tliou<:li )nio of tli( •ontlv bet II • U'ni proved and of tilt tlieir asser. acli a large [TO fish, anil bears, eoiu referred to the whale. esh ardour, eurrent to the aoeoin- een an arm )( 11 to th( titude was this survey • Lirso to the vliieh thev « :l around it feet. The about two 'ad, and it IIa])pily. st point el their profrross northward, and were about to return in ureal disai)pointinent, two eircuinstanees occurred whii'h reiwh'red it certain that they I>ad penetrated to th«' sea : Tiie first was the apj)earanceof many lar. 64, 05. 182 MACKENZIE S RETURN. raaiix, wlio had broken a treaty into wliich they had inveigled tlie Indians, and butehered many oi them. Oeeasionally a strong body aseended tlic river in large canoes, in searcii of flints to point their spears and arrows. At present they were on the banks of a lake to the eastward, hunting rein-deer, and would soon begin to eateh big iish (whales) for their winter stock. They had been informed that the same Esquimaux, eight or ten winters ago, saw to the westward, on White IMan's Lake^ several large canoes full of white men, who gave iron in exchange for leather. On landing at a lodge of natives farther down the river, the English Chief obtained some other |)articulars from a Dog-ribbed Indian, who bad been driven by some private quar. rel from his own nation, and lived among tlu Hare Indians. According to his information, there was a much larger river to the soutii west of tlu mountains, which fell into White Man's Lake. The people on its banks were j* gigantic and wicked race^ who could kill common men with their eyes, and sailed in huge canoes. There was^ he added, no known communication by water with this great ri- ver ; but those who had seen it went over the moun- tains, and it flowed towards the mid-day sun. This description proceeded, he acknowledged, not from personal observation but was taken from the report of others who inliabited the opposite moun- tains. Mackenzie having fallen in with one of these strangers, by a bribe of some beads, prevailed upon him to delineate the circumjacent country and the course of the unknown river upon the sand. The map proved a very rude production. He traced out a long point of land between the rivers without paying I 11 NKW TRIHE OF INDIANS. las vvliich they •('(1 numy o( (•ended the ) point their vere on tlie g rein-deer, ih (whah's) n informed ;en winters lan's Lake^ , who gave 1^^ at a lodtrc iifrlish Ciii<'f Doft-ril)hed rivate quar. among tii( ation, tlierc ,west of the Lake. The kicked raee, r eyes, and added, no lis great ri. ' the moun- d-day sun. edged, not n from the )site mouu- )ne of tliese mailed upon ry and the and. The raeed out a out paying ^» the least attention to their eourses. This isthmus he represented as running into tlie gn'at hike, at the extremity of wliieh, as lie had been toM by Indians of other nations, tliere was built a Jieiiahulla (-ouin, or White 3Iai/'s Fort. " This," says i^Iaek(>nzie, " I took to be Oonalaska Fort, and consequently the river to tile west to be Cook's Uiver, and that the body of water or sea into which the river discharges itself at Whale Island communicated with Norton Sound." Mackenzie now endeavoured to jirocure a guide across the mountains, but tlie natives sti-adily refus- ed ; and any additional intelligence wiiicli they com- municated re(^ardin them entirely from the stumps, in this way forming a kind of railing on either side. The baggage and the canoe were then brought from the water-side to the encanij)ment, — an undertaking exceedingly perilous, as a single false step must have been followed by immersion into the river, which flowed here v.ith furious rapidity. Having accomplislud this labour, the party breath- ed a little, and then ascended the mountain with the canoe, having the line or rope by which it was drawn up doubled, and fastened successively to the stumps left fo" this purpose, whilst a man at the end hauled it round a tree, holding it on and shifting it as they advanced. In this man- ner the canoe was warped up the steep; and by two in the afternoon every thing had been carried U\H Tin; v()va(;k iii;s( .mmd. to tho summit. Mm were then dcspatcljccl to cut the roail onwards ; and the incessant hihour of another day could oFilv j)enetrate ahout three mih's. whilst moufitains much more elevated raised their snowy summits around in every direction. These, however, were at a distance; and another day's exertion hroufiht them throu<,di a wood of tall pines to the hanks of tin' river above the ra|)ids. IJeforc a^fain emharkiiiir, JNIackenzie h'ft attached to a pole a knife, a steel, Hint, beads, and other trifles as a tokenof amity to the natives : and one<»fhis Indians added a small round stick of jfreen wood, chewed at one end in the form or' a brush, used to pick mar. row out of bones, — an instrument which he explain- ed to l)e intended as an emblem to the people of a country aboundinff in animals.* They now resumed their voyage, en^'losed on all sides by mountains whose summits were covered with « snow, and one of which to the south rose to a majestic height. The air became chill ; the water, through which they frequ<'ntly waded towing or pushing their bark, was intensely cold ; and on JUst IMay. they reached a point minutely described to them be. fore setting out by an old Indian warrior. Here the riyer separated into two streams, one running west- north-west, and the other south-south-east. The first of these they had been warned to avoid, as it soon lost itself in various smaller currents among the mountains; and the steersman accordingly proceeded into the eastern branch, which, though not so broad as the other, was far more rapid. The course of their journey now led them through many populous i * Mackenzie, \). 181. H K A V K H - S K T T I, K M K N TS . m,} patched to It laljour of lircc miles. ais«'(l their II. These. >tliast. The void, as it among the proceeded )t so broad course of \' populous beaver-settlements. In some places these animals had cut down several acres of large poplars ; and they saw multitudes busy from sunrise to sunset • ft erecting houses, procurinj; food, superintendinif their dykes, and goinij diliifcntly throuj,di all the labours of their little commonwealth. Perceiving soon after .1 smoke in the forest which lined the banks, and hearini,' the sounds of human voices in great confu- sion, tliey became aware that they were near an In- ■' •' ft- dian encampment from which the inhabitants wen? retreating. AccordinLily, on approaching the shore two ferocious-looking meu sprung from the woods and took their station on a rising lhing else than a large branch of the one the expedition was then na- vigating. Their iron, they said, was procured in ex- chancre for beaver and dress moose-skins from the people there, who travelled during a moon to the country of other tribes living' in houses, and these in their turn extended their journeys to the ocean, or, to use their disparaging epithet, the Great Stinking Lake, where they traded with white people, who came in canoes as large as islands. Their know- ledge of the country, however, appeared so vague, that all hope of procuring a guide was vain, and the heart of the traveller sunk within him as he felt IIX) DKSPONDKNCV. that his favourite project was on tlic point of hein;; iittrrlv (lisconcertcd. Amidst this (Icsponchncy a faint hope remained that th<' natives, under the inlluence of suspicion, ti. midity, or from imperfectly un(hrstandin;f the inter, prcter, had not communicated all they knew; and afterani<,dit sl<'e|)less from anxi<'ty the traveller rose with the sun to repeat his inijuiries. At fu'st nothing satisfactory could he elicited ; hut suddenly iMacken- zie, whostood hesidethe interpreters, understood from the few words he knew of their lanyiua^e, that one person mentioned a ^reat river, whilst he pointed si^milicantly to that which lay hefore them. On a strict inquiry, th<' interpreter, who liad heen tired of the voyage, and of whose fidelity some suspicion was entertained, acknowledired that the Indian spoke of a larj^e river whose course was tow.rds the mid-dav sun, a branch of which Howed near the source of the stream they were now navifratiujLj. This brancli, he added, it would not be dillicult to reacli, there beiny only three small lakes and as many carrying-places on the way to it ; but he also insisted that the great river did not discharge itself into the sea. "■ This last assertion was imputed to his ignorance of the country, whilst a rude map, which he delineated with a piece of coal on a strij) of bark, convinced them that his information, so far as it went, was to be relied on. A new ray of hope now arose ; and having induced an Indian to go forward as a guide to the borders of the small lakes, Mac- kenzie resumed his journey on 10th June, promis- ing, if successful in his object, to revisit these friend- ly Indians in two moons. * Mackenzie, pp. 'iUIi, 204. Jt of heiiii; ' n'niJiincd spicioii, ti- f the iiitiT. ;ii('W ; and ivrlirr rose rst nothing y IMackcn- rstooil IVoin I', that one he pointed m. On a hccn tired i suspieioM lie Indian )\V".rds tlie I near the ia\i^fatin, havinir the tail of this last animal han^nny; down the back, mi^ht, when seen at a distance, occasion some doubt whether they be- longed to the human race. Their women were ex- tremelv uuble-e(ljre(l, of well-polished iron, and with shafts from ei<,djt to six feet long. Their knives v/ere of iron worked by themselves, and their axes res<'nibled a carpenter's ;. 'ze. They used snares of green skin, nets and fishing-lines of willow-bark, hooks of small bones, and kettles of watape so closely woven as not to leak. Besides these they had various dishes of wood and bark, horn a)id wooden spoons and buckets, and leathern and net-work bags. Their canoes, of spruce-bark, calculated to hold from two to five persons, were pro- pelled by paddles six feet long, with the blade shaped like a heart.* Pursuing their journey under the direction of the • Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 205, 200. 1 ]<)2 CANOK WRECKED. new ^'uide, they readied a sinal? lak^ in latitude 54° 24', wliieh iMaekenzie eonsidered as the highest or southernmost souree of tlie .Un^ngah or Peaee River. They passed two other hikes, ai.d a^raui en- tered the river, thi.^ navigation of which, from its rapidity and the trees and rocks in its chann(!i, now b<'canie dangerous. Tlie canoe struck on a sliarp rock, which shattered tlie stern, and drove her to the other side, where the bow met the same fate ; to complete the disaster she passed at this mo- ment over a cascade, which broke several holes in her bottom, and reduced lier to a complete wreck, lying flat upcni the water. All hands now jumped out, and clinging desperately to the sides, were hur- ried several hundred yards through a foaming tor- rent beset wilh sharp rocks, upon which they wen every instant in danger of being dashed to pieces. Being carried however into shallow water, where the canoe rested on the stones, tluM, were relieved from their perilous situation by their companions on shore. After this escape, a consultation was held regard- ing their future proceedings. Benumhed with cold. and intimidated by their recent dangers, the In- dians proposed an immediate return; but the re- monstrances of their leader, enforced by the usua! arguments of a hearty meal and an allowance of rum, banished their fears. It was next proposed to abandon the wreck, to carry the baggage to the river, which the guide aflirmed to be at no great distance. and there to construct a new vessel. But as it was suspected that this representation was not to be re- lied on, a party was despatched to reconnoitre, and brought back a very confused and unpromising ac- count of the country. It was therefore determined ti I n latitude he liiijhest or Peace I aijain en- , from its 5 cliannel, ruck on a and drove t the same iit til is mo- il holes ill ete wreck. )W jumped , were hur. am lug tor- they wen I to pieces. , wliere the lieved from IS on shore, d regard- with cold, the In- ut the re- the usual owance of )roposed to the river, t distance, t as it was )t to be re- loitre^ and nising ac- termined iMACKENZIK REACHES THE GREAT RIVER. 193 to repair the canoe, and proceed as before. For this purpose bark was collected, which, with a few pieces of oil-cloth and plenty of gum, restored their shattered boat to .something like a sea-worthy con- dition. Her frail state, however, rendered it neces- .sary to carry part (.f the lading on men's shoulders along the banks ; and as a road had to be opened with hatchets, their progress was extremely slow. On IHth June, ^Ir IMackay and two Indians were despatched with orders to penetrate if possibh; to the great river in the direction indicated by i\w guide. They succeeded ; but returned with a dis- couraging account of the interminable woods and deep morasses which intervened. These gloomy pro- spects v;erc increased by the desertion of tlieir guide ; hut nothing could repress ^Mackenzie's ardour. Cut- tinii a passage through the woods, carrying the cpnoe round the rapids and cascades, they held on their slow and toilsome way, till at last, after passing a swamp, in many places wading to mid-thigh, they enjoyed the satisfaction of reaching the bank of the great river, which had been tlu? object of so mucli anxious expectation and proiracted hope." Embarking anew, they were borne along by a strong current, which, slackening after a short time, allowed them to glide gently between banks of high white cliffs, surmounted with grotesque and sin- iiularly-shaped pinnacles. After some progress, the party were alarmed by a loud whoop from the thick woods ; at the same moment a canoe guided hy a single savage shot out from the mouth of a small tributary stream, and a number of natives, * Mackenzie's Tiavels, p. •22t{. M 194 HOSTILITY OF THE NATIVES : armed with bows and arrows, appeared on an adjacent rising ground, uttering loud cries, and manifesting by their gestures that instant deatli would be inflicted on any one who landed. Every attempt to conciliate them pr'^ved unavailing ; and a canoe was observed to steal swiftly down the river, with the evident design of communicating the alarm and procuring assistance. At this critical moment the courage and prudence of iMackenzie providential, ly saved his party. He landed alone, with two pistols stuck in his belt; having first, however, given orders to one of his Indians to steal into the woods with a couple of guns, and to keep near him in case of attack. " I had not bo'^n long," says he, " in my station on the bank, with my Indian in ambush behind me, when two of the natives came oflf in a canoe, but stopped when they got within 100 yards of me. I made signs for them to land, and as an inducement displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other alluring trinkets. At length, but with every mark of extreme apprehension, they approached the shore, taking care to turn their canoe stern foremost, and still not venturing to land I now made them a present of some beads, with which they were going to push off, when I renewed my entreaties, and after some time prevailed on them to come ashore and sit down by me. ]\Iy Indian hunter now thought it right to join me, and created some alarm in my new acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had the satisfaction to find that he and these people perfectly understood each other. I instructed him to say every thing to them which might tend to sooth their fears and win their confi- dence. I expressed my wish to conduct them to THEY ARK CONCILIATED BY MACKENZIE. 1}).") ed on an cries, and ant death d. Every iiing; and n the river, g the alarm al moment •ovidential- I two pistols riven orders oods with a in case of le, *' in my in ambusli ime off in a II 100 yards and as an 3eads, and with every roached the n foremost, made them they were entreaties, m to come iaii hunter eated some , however, to find that each other, hem which their confi- ct them to our canoe ; but they declined tills offer . and when they observed some of my people coming towards us, they reqiK'sted me to let them return, and I was so well satisfied with the progress which I had made in my intercourse with them, that I did not hesitate a moment in complying with their desire. Duriuij their short stay they observed us, and every thing about us, with a mixture of admiration and asto- nishment. We could plainly perceive that their friends received f liem with great joy on their return, and that the articles which they carried back with them were examined with a general and eager cu- riosity: they also appeared to hold a consultation which lasted about a quarter of an hour, and the result was an invitation to come over to them, which we cheerfully accepted. Nevertheless, on our land- ing, they betrayed evident signs of confusion, which arose probably from the quickness of our movements, as the prospect of a friendly communication had so cheered the spirits of the people that they paddled across the river with the utmost expedition. The two men who had been with us appeared very na- turally to possess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and were ready to receive us on our landing ; but our demeanour soon dispelled their apprehensions, and the most familiar communication took place between us. When I had secured their confidence by the distribution of trinkets among them, and had treated the children with sugar, I instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary information in their power to afford me."* The intelligence procured from this tribe was dis- ■ — J^ M. — .l. ■ ■ . III - I * Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 244, 245. 19() AMERICAN COSMOGRAPHY. t'ouraging. Tlicy stated, indeed, that the river ran towards tlie mid-day sun, and that at its mouth white people were building houses; but that tho navigation was dangerous, and in three places abso- lutely impassable, owing to the falls and rapids. The nations through whose territories the route lay they represented as ferocious and malignant, especi- ally their immediate neighbours, who dwelt in sub- terranean houses. Unappalled by this description Mackenzie re-embarked, and he was accompanied by a small canoe, with two persons who consented to act as guides. Coming to a place where some savage- looking people were seen on a high ground, it was thought expedient to land, and an amicable interview took place, which led to important consequences. On explaining the object of the journey, one of tlu natives, of superior rank and intelligence, drew a sketch of the count.vy on a piece of bark, appealiny during his labour to his companions, and accompa- nying the rude but perfectly intelligible map by details as to their future voyage. He described the river as running to the east of south, receiving in its course many tributary streams, and broken every six or eight leagues by dangerous falls and rapids, six of which were altogether impracticable. The carrying-places he represented as of great length across mountains. He depicted the lands of three tribes in succession, who spoke different languages ; and concluded by saying that beyond them he knew nothing of the country, except that it was still a great way to the sea, and that there was a lake of which the natives did not drink.'"" Mackenzie's Titivels, p. ^o'i. OVERLAND JOURNKY. iji; ! river ran its mouth , that tlu> aces abso- id rapids. ' route lav nt, especi- elt in sub- leseriptioii ipariiedby n sen ted to ne savage- iid, it was ' interview sequences, one of the K, drew a appeal] nil accompa- e map by cribed the ceiving in (ken every id rapids, ble. The at lengtli s of three niguages ; 1 he knew vas still a a lake of Whilst the route by water was thus said to be impracticable, they asserted that the road across tin* country to the ocean was short in comparison, and lay along a valley free from wood, and fre(j[uently travelh.'d. Other considerations combined to recom- mend this latter course to Mackenzie: Only thirty days' provisions were left, and the supply procured by hunting was very precarious. The ammunition was nearly spent; and if the prosecution of the voy- age appeared perilous, a return would have been equally so. Under these circumstances it was re- solved to abandon the canoe, and to penetrate over- land to the Western Ocean. To arrive at the spot w here they were to strike ofl' across the country it was necessary to return a con- siderable way up the river, — a service of great dan- ger, owing to the shattered condition of the boat and the hostile dispositions of the natives, wl o were apt to change in an instant from the greatest friendliness to unmitigated rage and suspicion. The guides deserted them, and it became absolutely necessary to build a new canoe. She proved better than the old one, and they at last reached the point whence they were to start overland. " We carried on our backs," says iMackenzie, " four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing from eighty-five to ninety-five pounds each, a case with the instruments, a parcel of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds, and a parcel containing ammunition of the same weight ; each of the Canadians had a burden of about ninety pounds, with a gun and ammunition, whilst the Indians had about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican, be- sides their gun, — an obligation with which, owing to their having been treated with too much indulgence. 198 FRIENDLY INDIANS. tliey expressed themselves much dissatisfied. JMy own load and that of Mr Mackay consisted of twenty-two pounds of pemmican, some rice, sugar, and other small articles, amounting to about seventy pounds, besides our arms and ammunition. Tlu- tube of my telescope was also slung across my shoul- der ; and owing to the low state of our provisions ii was determined that we should content ourselves with two meals a-day."* Thus laden, they struck into the woods, and tra- velling along a tolerably beaten path, arrived befon night at some Indian tents, where they were joined by an elderly man and three other natives. TIk old man hela in his hand a spear of European manufacture, like a sergeant's halberd, which he stated he had lately received from some people on the seacoast, to whom it had been given by white men. He added, that those heavily laden did not take more than six days to reach the tribes with whom he and his friends bartered their furs and skins for iron, and that thence it was scarcely two days' march to the sea. He recommended also that, whilst they retired to sleep, two young Indians should be sent forward to warn the different tribes whose territories they were approaching, — a precaution which had the best effects. Another pleasing distinction between their present hosts and the other savages whom they had passed soon presented itself: When the weary travellers lay down to rest the Indians took their station at a little distance, and began a song in a sweet plaintive tone, unaccompanied by any instrument, but with a mo- * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 285. KKMALE NATIVE OF THE SEACOAST. 191> fied. Mv • insisted ol ice, sugar, ut seventy ion. Tlu- myslioul- •ovisions ii , ourselves s, and tra- ved befor; rere joined [ves. Tin European which lie me people given Lv vily laden the tribes their furs as scarcely )mmended wo young e different lehing, — a Another ent hosts assed soon v^ellers lay I at a little itive tone, ith a mo- dulation exceedingly pleasing and solemn, not un- like that of church-music. The circumstance may remind the reader of the descriptions of American music given by ]\Ir JMeares and Captain Burney, whom it strikingly corroborates. Having procured two guides, they now proceeded through an open country sprinkled with cypresses, and joined a family of the natives. The father, on hearing their intention of penetrating to the ocean, pointed to one of his wives who was a native of the seacoast; her appearance differed from the females they had hitherto seen. She was of low stature inclined to corpulency, with an oblong face, gray eyes, and a flattish nose. Her garments con- sisted of a tunic covered with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with the beautiful fur of the sea-otter. She wore bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, whilst her hair was braided with large blue beads, and her ears and neck adorned with the same. With these people age seemed to be an ob- ject of great veneration ; they carried an old woman by turns upon their backs, who was quite blind and infirm. The country appeared well peopled, and the natives, though at first alarmed, were soon conciliated by the guides. In some places they ob- served chains of small lakes, the valleys were verdant and watered with pleasant rivulets, and the scenery varied by groves of cypress and poplar, in which they were surprised to see no animals. The inha- bitants indeed seemed to live exclusively on fish ; and the people of one small settlement containing thirteen families were denominated, in the language of the country, Sloa-cuss-Dinais or Red Fish Men. They were healthy looking, and more provident. 20() THE GUIDES DESERT. cleanly, and comfortable, than the neighbouring tribes. One of Mackenzie's ^Tcatest and most frequent perplexities arose out of the sudden fits of capri('( and change of purpose, wliich characterize most savages, but none more than the Americans. An example of this now occurred : The guides, upon whose fidelity the success of the expedition mainly depended, were advancing apparently in the most contented and friendly manner, when, in a moment, without uttering a word, they sprant; forward, and disappeared in the woods, leaving tin party, who were utterly unacquainted with the route, in a state bordering on despair. -• Pushing forward, liowever, at a hazard, they perceived a house situated on a green spot by the edge of a wood, the smoke of which curled above the trees, intimating that it was inhabited. JMackenzie ad- vanced alone, as his party were too much alarmed to second his intrepidity ; and so intent were the in- habitants upon their household labours, that he ap- proached unperceived. Nothing could exceed the terror and confusion occasioned l)y his sudden ap- pearance. The women and children uttered.piercing shrieks, and the only man about the place sprung out of a back-door with the rapidity of a wild-cat, and fled into the woods. Their dismay arose from the belief that they were surprised by enemies, and would be instantly put to death ; an atrocity too com- mon among the Indian tribes. The conduct of the man who had fled was amusing : By degrees he crept sufficiently near to w atch the party ; and on observ- * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 302. H \J (I .1 > pr CO a! ar of lie (le COI to ovt sill fno to alo SWi wli sen W'R: pla Ilea the ) iim I the I iair I at 1 pOS! ma] a bi TKIIROR OF THE NATIVES. 201 glibourin t frequent of caprit'( rize most Linericaiis. le guides, expedition ireiitly in when, in ey sprant; saving the with tlu' Pushing erceived a edge of a the trees, venzie ad- ilarmed to re the in- lat he ap- xceed the iidden ap- jd.piercing •e sprung wikl-eat, rose from [lies, and too com- et of the s he crept In observ- inij the kindness with wliich the women and chil- dren were treated, came cautiously within speaking distance. His eyes wen? still staring in liis head. Xo assurances of the interpreters or tlie women could persuade him to return ; no ])eads, knives, or presents of any kind, had the elTect of restoring his coiifidence. On being approached, he kept dodging about behind large trees, brandishing his bow and arrows, grinning hide(/usly, and displaying a variety of strange antics, till at last, in one of his paroxysms, he dived into a thicket and disappeared. As sud- denly he emerged in an opposite (juarter, and l)e- coming pacified, after a succession of parleys, agreed to accompany them as a guide. On advancing from this station they travelled over an elevated tract, and at length gained the summit of a hill, affording a view of a range of niomitains covered with snow, which, according to the guide, terminated m the ocean. Passing along the borders of st^veral small lakes, through a swampy country, they arrived at a lodge of natives, who received them with hospitality, and minutely scrutinized their appearance. The hair of the women was tied in large loose knots over the ears, and plaited with great neatness from the division of the head, so as to be included in the knots : some had tiieir tresses adorned with beads, producing a very ^ graceful effect ; whilst the men were clothed in lea- i ther, their hair nicely combed, their complexion ] lair, and their skin cleanly. One young man was ^ at least six feet four inches in height, with a pre- possessing countenance, and affable and dignified manners. All, not excepting the children, carried a burden proportioned to their strength, consisting 202 REAI^TIFUL SCENERY. of bcavor-cojiting and parclimcnt^ skins of th<' ot- ter, marten, bear, and lynx, besides dressed moose- skins. These last tlu'v proeured from the Rocky Mountain Indians ; and For the purposes of tradt the people of the seacoast preferred them to any others. They now continued their journey through ii beautiful valley, watered by a gentle rivulet, to a range of hills which they ascended till surround, ed by snow so firm and compact that it crunched under their feet. Before them lay a stupendous mountain, whose summit, clad with the same spot. less coronet, was partly lost in the clouds. Between it and the route they were to follow flowed a broad river ; and, descending from their present ele\ at( d ground, they plunged into woods of lofty and umbra, geous cedars and alder trees.* As they got lower into these primeval forests they were sensible of an en- tire change of climate. The guides pointed out to them, through the openings in the dark foliage, the river which flowed in the distance, and a village on its banks, whilst beneath their feet the ground was covered with berries of an excellent flavour, and completely ripe. The effect of sunset upon this noble scenery was strikingly beautiful ; but their admiration was interrupted by the decampment of their guides, who, as the shades of evening began to fall, pushed forward at such a pace that the party were soon left without conductors in darkness and uncertainty. The men, who were much fatigued, now proposed to take up their quarters for the night : but their indefatigable leader groped his way for- • Mackenzie's Travels, pp. 316, 317. VILLAGE IN TIIK FORKST. 203 .f the ot- [l moosc- le Rocky of trade n to anv • hrougli II Lilet, to a mrround- criiiit'hcd upenclous ame spot- Between 'd a broad it de\ ated id umbra, lower into of an en- ted out to liage, the village on ound was our, and pon this but their pment of began to the party ness and fatigued, he night : way for- ward, and at length, arriving at the edge of the wood, ])ereeived the light of several fires. On com- ing up he entered a hut where the people were employed in cooking fish, threw down his burden, and shook hands with the inmates, who did not sliow any surprise, but gave him to understand by sinns that he should go to a large house, erected on upright posts at some distance from the ground. A broad piece of timber, with steps cut in it, led to a scaffolding on a level with th<' floor ; and as- cending these, the traveller entered tlie apartment, pass'ed three fires at equal distances in the middle of the room, and was cordially received by several people seated on a wide board at the upper end. Mackenzie took his place beside one whom, from his dignified look, he took to be the chief. Soon after the rest of the party arrived, and placed themselves near him ; upon which the chief arose and brought a quantity of roasted salmon. JMats were then spread, and the fish placed before them. When the meal was concluded, their host made signs which they sup- posed to convey a desire that they sliould sleep un- der the same roof with himself; but, as his meaning was not sufticiently plain, they prepared to bivouac without. Every thing was done to render their re- pose agreeable : A fire was kindled, boards placed tliat they might not sleep on the bare ground, and two delicate dishes of salmon-roes, beat up to the consistency of thick cream, and mixed with goos(!- herries and wood-sorrel, were brought for supper. On awaking in the morning, they found all their wants anticipated in the same hospitable manner ; a fire was already blazing, a plentiful breakfast of roasted salmon and dried roes was provided, and a re- 204 SALMON-FISH KRY. iiali of rftsj)l»erri('s, whortleluTrios, and goosi'berrics. finished the meal.* Salmon was so ahundant in this river that tlic people had a constant supply. They had lornud across the stream an embankment for |)laeinLf lishini:. machines, which were disposed both above and Ix'low it. For some reason, however, they would periiiii no near inspection of the weir ; but it ajuwared \u be four feet above the water, and was constructed of alternate layers of gravel and small trees, iixed in a slanting position. Beneath it were placed ma- chines into which the salmon fell in attemptinii to leap over; and on either side was a large timlxr frame six feet above the water, in which passai^i s were left leading directly into the machines, wl'ilsi at the foot of the fall dipping-nets were successfully employed. These people were observed to indulsft an extreme superstition regarding their iish, re- fusing to taste flesh, and appearing to consider such an act as a pollution. One of their dogs haviiiL' swallowed a bone which the travellers left, was beaten by his master till he disgorged it ; and a bone of a deer being thrown into the river, a nativt dived, brought it up, consigned it to the fire, and carefully washed his hands. They would not lend their canoes for the use of the party, having observ- ed some venison which they concluded was to b( stowed on board ; and they alleged that the fish would immediately smell it and leave them. Al- though generous in furnishing the strangers witii as much roasted fish as they could consume, they would part with none in a raw state : They be- . • Mackenzie's Travels, p. 318—320. SUPKnSTITIONS. 20." )S('l)erri('s, • that til. 1(1 formed nu lisirmj:. and below .lid |)(Tin'n pjM'arcd to onstructcd is, lixt'd ill laced inii- 'iiiptiiiii t(. rg(! tinil»t'r li passau(s lies, vvhilsl uct'cssrullv to indulgi r iish, re. isider such [)gs havini,' 1 left, was it ; and a r, a native » fire, and "id not lend ^ig observ- was to be it tlie lisli llieni. Al- ligers with |ume, they They be- licved salmon to have an invincible antipathy to iron, and were afraid that, if ^nven raw to the white men, they mi<,'ht take serious ofl'ence at beinj; boiled ill a vessel of this ominous metal. In other respe<'ts nothing could exceed their friendliness; and at a ii(ii:hl>oiiriFJg \ .il'>g(! belonijing to tin* same tribe, the reception of Mackenzie was if possible still more kind. The son of the chief took from his own shoulders a bduitiful robe of sea-ott<'r skin, and threw it over tile traveller, whilst the father expressed the utmost salisfa<'lion in being pres(>nted with a pair of scissors t()eli|)his beard, — a pur[)oseto which, with the eager delight of a child, he instantly applied them. The houses in this vilh^ge were constructed in the same way as those already described, and r.'mind lis of the lively account given by i\Ir iVIeares. At a little distance, jMackenzie observed some singu- lar wooden buildings, which he conjectured to Ix' temples. They consisted of oblong squares, about twenty feet high by eight broad, formed of thick cedar-planks beautifully joined. Upon these were painted hieroglyphics and figures of various animals, witli a remarkable d(^gree of correctness. In the midst of the village was a large building, at first snpposed to be the unfinished frame-work of a house. Its dimensions, however, were far greater than those of an ordinary dvvelling, the ground-plot being fifty feet by forty-five, each end formed by four stout posts fixed perpendicularly in the earth. The cor- ner posts were unornamented, and supported a beam of the whole length, having three intermediate props on each side. Two centre posts at each end, about two feet and a half in diameter^ were carved into colossal human figures, supporting ridge-poles on 206 INDIAN MECHANICAL ARTS. their heads ; tlie hands were placed on the knees, as if they felt difficulty in sustaining the weight, whilst the figures opposite to them stood in an easy attitude, with their hands resting on their hips. The posts, poles, and figures, wer*? painted red and black, and the carving was executed with a truth and boldness which bespoke no little advancement in sculpture.* In the mechanical arts they had arrived at considerable perfection. The chief's ca- noe was of cedar, forty-five feet long, four wide, and three feet and a half deep. It was painted black, and ornamented with drawings of various kinds of fish in white upon the dark ground, and the gun- wale, both fore and aft, was neatly inlaid with the teeth of the sea^otter. In this vessel, accordiiif[ to the old chief's account, he undertook, about ten winters before, a voyage towards the mid-day sun, having with him forty of his subjects; on which oc casion he met with two large vessels full of white men, the first he had seen, bv whom he was kindly received. IMackenzie very plausibly conjectured that these might be the ships of Captain Cook. It was now the 1 8th of July, and, surrounded by friendly natives, with plenty of provisions, pleasant weather, and the anticipation of speedily reaching the great object of their wishes^ they resumed their voyage in a large canoe, accompanied by four of the Indians. The navigation of the river, as they ap- proached the ocean, was interrupted by rapids and cascades ; but their skill in surmounting these impe- diments was now considerable, and on the 20tli, after a passage of thirty-six miles, they arrived at * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 331. MACKENZIE REACHES THE SEA. 207 ihe kuees, e weight, in an easy heir hips. d red and th a truth iraneement tliey had chief's ca- ' wide, and ited black, IS kinds of d the gun- nlaid with [, according , about ten id-day sun, I which ce- ll of white was kindly ctured that tlie mouth of the river, which discharges itself by various smaller channels into an arm of the Pacific Ocean. The purpose of the expedition was now completed, and its indefatigable leader painted in large characters, upon the face of the rock under whose shelter they had slept, this simple memorial : " Alexander IMackenzie, from Canada by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." The inscription was only writ- ten in vermilion, and has probably long ago been washed away by the fury of the elements ; but the name of Mackenzie is enduringly consecrated in the annals of discovery, as the first person who penetrat- ed from sea to sea across the immense continent of North America. His return by the same route it is unnecessary to pursue. bunded by IS, pleasant ly reaching imed their four of the IS they ap- 1 rapids and these impe- the '20th, arrived at 208 FRANKLIN S FIRST JOURNEY. CHAPTER IV. Discoveries along the Shores of the Arctic Ocean. First and Second Expeditions of Franklin — Voyage of Captain Beechev. The discoveries of Hearne and IMackenzie esta- blished tlie great fact tliat tliere is a iiortliern coast in America, waslied by tlie Arctic Ocean, which forms, in all probability, its continuous boundary ; and they demonstrated the practicability of reach- ing this limit by passing over the vast plains which stretch northward from Canada and Hudson's Bay. The voyages of Captain Parry, also, which have been already detailed,"'' fully corroborated this opi- nion ; and it appeared evident that another expe- dition, properly conducted, might reach this shore, and more fully examine its whole extent. Such an expedition, accordingly, sailed from England on the 23d of jMay 1820, its command being intrusted to Lieutenant, now Sir John Franklin, assisted by Dr Richardson, an able mineralogist and natural historian. During the first portion of their journey, they followed the chain of the great lakes, instead of the more eastern track pursued by Hearne, and having descended the Coppermine River, arrived " Polar Seas and Rej,nons, ad edit. |). 263—323. VOYAGE ALONG THE ARCTIC SHORES. 200 on 21 st July at the shore of tlie Arctic Ocean, where id th( of di Ii ^cean. of Captain zie esta- ern coast n, which 3undary ; of reach- ns which n's Bay. ich have this opi- ler expe- lis shore, t. Sucli oland on kntrusted sisted hy natural journey, instead ne, and arrived |3. comnieiiceci liieir care* tant as were the particulars of tlieir survey, when considered in rehition to the furtherance of geo- graphical science, a minute detail is liere unneces- sary, and we shall attempt only a general sketch. Paddling along the coast to the eastward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, they encamped on shore after a run of thirtv-seven miles, in which they experienced little interruption, and saw only ;i small iceherg in the distance, tliough tliat heauti- tiil luminous elTulgence emitted from the congregat- ed ices, and distinguished by the name of the ice- blink, was distinctly visible to the northward. The coast was found of moderate height, eas}'' of access, and covered with vegetation ; but the islands were rocky and barren, presenting high cliffs of a colum- nar structure. In continuing their voyage, the dan- gers which beset a navigator in these dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily around them : The coast became broken and steril, and at length rose into a high and rugged promontor}^ against which some large masses of ice had drifted, threatening de- struction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round this cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, and the thunder burst over their heads, compelling them to encamp till the storm subsided. They then, at the imminent risk of hav- ing the canoes crushed by the floating ice, doubled the dreary promontory, which tliey denominated Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbour, where they landed. Around them the land consisted of mountains of granite, rising abruptly from the wa- te.'s edge, destitute of vegetation, and attaijiing an N 210 CAPE KATER AND BANKEs' PENINSULA. elevation of 1400 or 1500 feet ; seals and small detr were the only animals seen, and the former were so shy that all attempts to approach within sliot were unsuccessful. With the deer the hunters were niort fortunate; but these were not numerous ; and whiisl the ice closed gradually around them, and tluir little stock of provisions, consisting of pen.micaii and cured beef, every day diminished, it was im. possible not to regard their situation with uneasi- ness. Rounding C'ape Kater, they entered Arctir Sound, and sent a party to explore a river upon tin banks of which they expected to find an Esquimaux encampment. All, however, was silent, desolati, and deserted : even these hardy natives, bred amidst the polar ices, had removed from so barren a spot. and the hunters returned with two small deer aiich brown bear ; the latter animal so lean and sickly looking that the men declined eating it ; but theolfi- cers boiled its paws and found them excellent. Proceeding along the easterly shore of Arctii Sound, to which they gave the name of Banki/ Peninsula, the expedition made its painful way along a coast indented by bays, and in many plam studded with islands, till on 10th August tluy reached the open sea; and sailing, as they imagined, between the continent and a large island, found tn their deep disappointment that, instead of an open channel, they were in the centre of a vast bay; The state of the expedition now called for the most serious consideration upon the part of their com- mander. So much time had already been spent iii exploring the sounds and inlets, that all hope of reaching Repulse Bay was vain ; both canoes had sustained material injury ; the fuel was expend- ULA. TERMINATION OF THE VOYAGE. 211 small deer ler were so I sltot were 1 were mun and whilst and tluir pen. mi can it was ill]. itli uneasi- ered Aretii er upon tin Esquimaux t, desolati', bred amidst rren a spot. 1 deer and a and sicidv mt tlieoffi. client. of Arctic of Baiikis >ainful wav nany plaa> ugust tiuv y imagiiK'd. d, found to of an open vast bav: or the most their com- !en spent in all hope ol canoes had as expend- ed ; their provisions were sufficient only for three days ; the appearances of the setting in of the arctic winter were too unequivocal to be mistaken ; the deer, which had hitherto supplied them with fresh meat, would it was well known soon disappear; the geese and other aquatic birds were already seen winging their way to the southward; while the men, who had up to this moment displayed the utmost courage^ began to look disheartened, and to enter- tain serious apprehensions for their safety. Under these circumstances Franklin, with the concur- rence of his officers, determined nut to endanger tlie lives of his people by a farther advance; and, after spending four days in a minute survey of the bay, it w^as resolved to return by Hood's River to Fort Enterprise. Franklin's researches, as far as prosecuted at this time, favoured the opinion of those who contended for the practicability of a north-west passage. It appeared probable that the coast ran east and west in the latitude assigned to JMacken- zie's River, and little doubt could, in his opinion, be entertained regarding the existence of a conti- nued sea in that direction. The portion over which they passed was navigable for vessels of any size ; and the ice met with after quitting Detention Har- bour would not have arrested a strong boat, whilst the chain of islands afforded shelter from all heavy seas, and there were good harbours at convenient distances. Having with much severe privation completed their course, from Point Turnagain in Melville Bay to the entrance of Hood's River, they ascended as high as the first rapid and encamped, ter- minating here their voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over 650 geographical miles. 212 LAND JOURNEY. On tlic prospcc't of (•ommeiicing their land jour, nev the Canadians could not conceal their satisfac- tion; and the evening previous to their departure was passed in talking over their past adventures, and congratulating each other in iiaving at length turned their backs upon the sea, — little anticipating that the most painful and hazardous portion of the expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles, was put up in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English union was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships passing in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box, a letter containing an outline of the proceedings of the expedition, the lati- tude and longitude of the principal places, and the course intended to be pursued towards Slave Lake. They now proceeded up the river in their canoes, and though upon a short allowance of provisions, the produce of their nets and fowling-pieces fur. nished for a few days enough to ward off absolute want, but they were often on the very brink of it. Their progress was much interrupted by shoals and rapids, and one evening they encamped at the lower end of a narrow chasm, the walls of which were upwards of 200 feet high, and in some places only a few yards apart. Into this^ the river preci- pitates itself, forming two magnificent cascades, to which they gave the name of Wilberforce Falls. On taking a survey of its farther course from a neigh- bouring hill, it was discovered to be so rapid and shallow, that all progress in the large canoes seen^ed impossible. Two smaller boats were therefore con- structed ; and on 1st September^ they set off with the EXTREME COLD. 213 land jour, r satisfac- departuro iventuiTs, at leiipth iticipating ion of the ing off, an iig-glasscs, )nspicuous rlish union •e it niiglit ng. Here tain ing an n, the lati- ns, and the lave Lake, eir canoes, provisions, )ieces fur- [f absolute rink of it. by shoals Ded at the of ^vhich )me places ver preci- scadeSj to [^alls. On 1 a neigh. •apid and es seemed efore con- with the I intention of proceeding in as direct a line as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite their spring en- campment, — a distance which appeared compara- tively trifling, being only 149 miles. Their luggage consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice-chisels, astronomical instruments, clothing-blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes, each so light as to be carried easily by a single man. But disaster attack- ed them in their very first stage. A storm of snow came on accompanied by a high wind, against which it was difficult to carry the canoes, that were da- maged by the falls of those who bore them. The ground was covered by small stones, and much pain was endured by the carriers, whose soft moose-skin- shoes were soon cut through. The cold was intense ; and on encamping they looked in vain for wood ; a fire of moss was all they could procure, which served them to cook their supper, but gave so little heat that they were glad to creep under their blankets.* Having ascended next morning one of the highest hills, they ascertained that the river took a westerly course, and Franklin, thinking that to follow it far- ther would lead to a more tedious journey than their exhausted strength could endure, determined to quit its banks and make directly for Point Lake. Emerg- ing, therefore, from the valley, they crossed a barren country, varied only by marshy levels and small lakes. The weather was fine, but unfortunately no berry-bearing plants were found, the surface being covered in the more humid spots with a few grasses, and in other places with some gray melan- choly lichens. On encamping, the last piece of Franklin's Journey, p. 399. 214 FAILURE OF PROVISIONS. pemmican, or pounded flesli, was di.stri])Uted, witli a little arrow-root, for supper. The evenin<; was warm ; but dark elouds overspread the sky, and tiiey experienced those sudden alternations of clinmtf which occur in the polar latitudes at this season. At midnight it rained in torrents; but towards morning a snow-storm arose accompanied by a vio. lent gale. During the whole day the storm conti- nued, and not having the comfort of a fire the min remained in bed, but the tents were frozen ; around them the snow had drifted to the depth of thret feet, and even within lay seATral inches thick on their blankets. Though the storm had not abatid any longer delay was impossible, for they kntv, every hour would imTease the intensity of an arctic winter ; and though faint from fasting, and with their clothes stiffened by frost, it w as absolutely ne- cessary to push forward. They suffered much in packing the frozen tents and bedclothes, and could hardly keep their hands out of their fur mittens. On attempting to move, Franklin was seized with a fainting fit, occasioned by hunger and exhaustion, and on recovering refused to eat a morsel of portable soup, which was immediately prepared for him, as it had to be drawn from the only remaining meal of the party. The people, however, kindly crowded round, and overcame his reluctance. The effect of eating was his rapid recovery ; and the expedition moved on. Disaster now crowded on disaster. The wind rose so high, that those who carried the canoes were frequently blown down, and one of the boats was so much shattered as to be rendered unserviceable. The ground was covered with snow; and though the CRACHOFT S IIIVKR. 2ir> mted, witli cnino- was y, and they of climate his season. ut towards 'd by a vio. torm con ti- re the mtn en ; around th of tliri't' L^s tliick on not abated tliey knev, of an arctic , and with solutely ne- d mucli ill and could ir mittens. eized with exhaustion, of portable or him, as lining meal ly crowded he effect of expedition The wind anoes were oats was so erviceable. though tlu' swamps were frozen, yet tlio ice was often not suf- ficiently strong; so that they plunged in Icnee- deep. A fire, however, was made of the bark and timbers of the broken canoe ; and after having fasted three days, their last meal of portable soup and ar- row-root was cooked. Each man's allowa!ice at this melancholy dinner was exceedingly scanty ; but it allayed the pangs of liunger, and encouraged them to press forward at a quicker rate. They had now reached a more liiHy country, strewed with large stones, and covered with gray lichen, well known to the Canadians l)y its name tripe de roche. In cases of extremity, it is boiled and eaten ; but its taste is nauseous, its quality purgative, and it sometimes proGJces an intolerable griping and loathing. The party not being aware of this, galiiered a consider, able quantity. A f; w partridges also had been shot ; and at night some willows were dug up from under the snow, with which they lighted a fire and cooked their supper. Next day they came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the westward over a channel of large stones, that rendered it impossible to cross in the canoe. No al- ternative was left but to attempt a precarious pass- age over some rocks at a rapid ; and in effecting this some of the men losing their balance slipt into the water. They were instantly rescued by their com- panions; but so intense was the frost, that their drenched clothes became caked with ice, and they suffered much during the remainder of the day's march. The hunters had fallen in with some par- tridges, which they shot, and they found enough of roots to make a fire ; so that their supper, though scanty, was comparatively comfortable. Next morn- 2l(j CONGECATIIAWIIACIIAGA. ing tlicy puslu'd forward with ardour, and pass- iid the river Coii};e('atiiawhHciia<^a of Mr Ileariic The country whieli lay before them was iiilly, and i'overed with snow to a ^reat depth. The sides of the hills were traversed hy sharp ant,ndar rocks, wliere the drifted snow filling up the interstices, pre- sented a smooth but fallacious surface, which often gave way and preci|)itated them into the chasms with their hea\ y loads. In this painful and ardu. ous niainier they struggled forward several days, feeding on the tripe de roche, which was so frozen to the rocks, that their hands were benumbed before a meal could be collected, and so destitute of nutri- tive juices, that it allayed hunger only for a very short time. At length reaching the summit of a hill, they, to their great delight, beheld a herd of musk- oxen feeding in the valley below ; an instant halt was made, the best hunters were called out, and whilst they proceeded with extreme caution in a circuitous route, their companions watched their proceeding's with intense anxiety. When near enough to open their fire, the report reverberated through the Iiills, and one of the largest cows was seen to fall. " This success," says Franklin, in that simple and beautiful accou'it of his journey which any change of language would only weaken, '' infused spirit into our starving party. The contents of its stomach were devoured upon the spot ; and the raw intestines, which were Jiext attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate of the party to be excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen peeping through the snow in the bot- tom of the valley, were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked and devoured with avi- dity. It w^as the sixth day since we had had a good PIIOVIDENTIAL SUPPL\. 217 md pass- • IIcariK'. Iiillv, and d sides of lar rocks, tiws, pre- :i it'll ol'tcii 10 chasms md ardu. M'al days, so frozen )ed before ; of luitri- for a very • t of a hill, of inusk- it halt was md whilst circuitous oceediiifjs 1 to open he hills, " This beautiful language r starving' devoured lich were t delicate ^\s, whose the bot- the tents ivitli avi- ad a good meal. I do not think that wo witnessed, through the course of our journey, a more striking proof of tlie wise dispensation of the Almighty, and of the weakness of our own judgment, than on this day. \V{' had considered the densliglitest breeze pierced through their debilitated frames. ^' The reader," says Franklin, " will pro- liably be desirous to know how we passed our time ill such a comfortless situation. The first operation Htter encamping was to thaw our frozen shoes, if a ufficient fire could be made ; dry ones w ere then put "11. Each person then wrote his notes of the daily 222 INSUIiORWINATION. occurrences, and even iiig prayers were read. As soon as supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in tlu- dark, and we went to ])ed and kept up a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the lieat of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient warmth to enable us to fall asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to bed in dry clothes ; for, when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we dared not venture to pull them off lest tliey should freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and therefore inconvenient to carry."* Hunger, fatigue, and disappointment, began now to have a calamitous efTect upon the tempen- of the men. One, who carried the canoe, after several severe falls, threw down his burden, and obstinate- ly refused to resume it. It was accordingly given to another, who proved stronger, and pushed for- ward at so rapid a rate that ]\Ir Hood, whose weak, ness was now extreme, could not keep up with them ; and as Franklin attempted to pursue and stop them, the whole party were separated. D" Richardson, who had remained behind to gather tri ( i de roche, joined him, and on advancing they fouiu. | the men encamped among some willows, where they liad found some pieces of skin and a few bones of deer which had been devoured by the wolves. On these they had made a meal, having burnt and pounded the bones, boiled the skin, and added their old shoes to the mess. With this no fault could be found ; but on questioning the person to whom the canoe had been intrusted, it was discovered that he had left * Franklin's Journey, p. 414. CANOE LEFT BEHIND. 2215 ,d. As soon rally in tlic a cheerful Aved by the d sufficient iiany nights bed in drv ient to drv 11 them off unfit to put iivenient to began now iperf of the fter several d obstinate. lingly given pushed for- iiose weak- p up with pursue and irated. D- gathertri.M they fouiUi where they ones of deer Oii these id pounded 'ir old shoes found ; but canoe had he had left IJie boat behind, it having, as he said, been broken by a fall and rendered entirely useless. To the infatuated obstinacy of the men in refus- ing to retrace their steps and fetch it, even in its shattered state, is to be ascribed much of the distress of their subsequent journey. Every argument and entreaty seemed entirely thrown away; and they iiad apparently lost all hope of being preserved. When the hunters who had been out for some time did not make their appearance, they became furious at the idea of having been deserted, and tlirowung down their bundles, declared they would Follow them ?t all hazards, and leave the weakest to keep up as they best could. The remonstrances of the officers at length opened their minds to tlie madness of such a scheme ; and on encamping in the evening, they found some pines seven or eight feet high, which furnished a comfortable fire, when they made their supper on tripe de roche. Next morning a herd of deer came in sight, and they killed five, — a supply which, considering the extre- mity of hunger and despair to which they were re- duced, was especially providential. It was evident diat He, without whom not a sparrow falls to the ground, was with them in their extremity of dis- tress ; andj casting themselves upon his care, every lieart expanded with hope and gratitude. The Canadians now earnestly petitioned for a day's rest. They pleaded their recent sufferings, and that the enjoyment of two substantial meals, after eight days' famine, would enable them to press forward more vigorously. The flesh, the skins, and even the stomachs of the deer, were accordingly equally divided among the party, and some of them suffered 224 THE COPPERMINE RIVER. severely from too free an indulgence in the use of this food after so long an abstinence. Next morn- ing the party resumed their journey, and after a walk of three miles came to the Coppermine River. Its current was strong, but with a canoe there would have been no difficulty in crossing ; and the reckless follv of the men in abandoning their onlv means of transport was now brought strongly to their mind. No ford could be discovered, and the plan was suggested of framing a vessel of willows, co. vered with the canvass of the tent ; but the most experienced boatmen declared the willo^-s were too small to bear the weight; and no pines could 1)0 found. Nothing remained but to resume their march along the borders of the lake; and looking out eagerly, but in vain, for some fordable place, they encamped at the east end. Anxious to adopt every possible means for preserving the party, Franklin sent Mr Back forward witli the interpreters to hmit. He was directed to halt at the first pines and con- struct a raft; and if his hunters had killed animals sufficient to provision them, he was to cross imme- diately and send the Indians with supplies of meat to the party behind. At this time it was discovered that two of the men had stolen part of the officers' provision, though it had been doled out with the strictest impartiality, and they saw their leaders suffering more acutely than themselves. To punish this w^as impossible, except by the threat that they should forfeit their wages, which produced little effect. Despondency had deeply seized upon the party, and in the morn- ing strict orders could not prevent them from strag- gling in search of the remains of animals ; in coiise- mg b A RAFT CONSTRUCTED. 22;! lie use of (ct morii- d after a ne River. iioe there ; and tlu' heir only ly to their [ the plan Hows, co- L the most 0V7S were ines eould ume their id looking place, they dopt every . Franklin ?rs to hunt. s and con- ■d animals OSS imme- |es of meat [wo of the )u, though ipartiality, Ire acutely jmpossihle, Jrfeit their Ispondency Itliemorn- ^om strag- in conse- quence of which niueli time was lost in halting, and ammunition in firing guns to collect them. The snow, however, had disappeared, and pressing for- ward with more alacrity they came to an arm of the lake running north-east. The idea of making the long circuit round it was distressing, and hav- ing halted to consult what was to be done, some one discovered in a cliff the carcass of a deer which had fallen into a chasm. It was quite putrid, but even in that state appeared delicious, and a fire being kindled, a large portion was rapidly devour- ed; whilst the men, cheered by this unexpected breakfast, regained their confidence, and requested leave to return to the rapid, insisting on the prac- ticability of making a sufficiently strong raft of wil- lows, though they had formerly pronounced it im- possible. Their advice was followed ; and having sent off Augustus, one of the interpreters, to inform Mr Back of this change of plan, they commenced their retrograde movement, and encamped at night jinadeep valley among some large willows, where they supped on the remains of the putrid deer. Next day they regained the rapids, commenced K'Utting willows for the raft, and a reward of 300 livres was promised by Franklin to the person who should convey a line across the river strong enough jlo manage the raft and transport the party. The willows when cut were bound into fagots, and the work completed ; but the greenness of the wood rendered it heavy, and incapal)le of supporting more than one man at a time. Still they hoped to be able to cross ; but all depended on getting a line karried to the opposite bank, through a current 130 [yards wide, strong, deep, and intensely cold. Belan- o 226 ItlCIIARDSON S GENEROSITY. ger and Benoit, the two strongest men of the party, repeatedly attempted to take the raft over, but for want of oars were driven back. The tent-staves were then tied together, and formed a strong pole ; but it was not long enough to reach the bottom even at a short distance from the shore. Dr Richardson next produced a paddle he had brought from the coast, but which was found not powerful enough to impel the raft against a strong breeze. Tlie failure of every attempt occasioned a deep despondency, which threatened to have the most fatal effects, when Dr Richardson, with a disinterested courage that made him forget his own weakness, threw off his upper garments, and attempted to swim with a rope to the opposite bank. Plunging in witli the line round his middle he at first made some way, but the ex. treme cold was too much for him, and in a few nic ments his arms became powerless ; still, being an expert swimmer, he not only kept himself afloat, but made way by turning on his back and using his legs, so that he had nearly reached the other side, when, to the inexpressible anguish of those who watched his progress, his limbs became benumbed, and he sank. All hands now hauled on the line, and drew him ashore almost lifeless ; but, placed l)efore a fire of willows and stript of his wet clothes, he gradually revived enough to give directions as to the mode of treating him. His thin and emaciated limbs, which were now exposed to view, produced an involuntary exclamation of compassion and surprise: — "Ah, que nous sommes maigres !" said the French Canadians ; but it is probable that few of them would have presented so gaunt and attenuated an appearance as the brave and excellent man wlio had ACCUMULATED SUFFERINGS. 227 le party, but for ives were )ole; but a even at ichardsoii from the enough to failure of cy, wliieh when Dr that made his upper •ope to the ine round It the ex- a few mo. being an self afloat, and using the other those who enurnbed. In the line, lUt, placed et clothes, ;tions as to emaciated Iroduced an d surprise: the French of them nuated an n who had thus nearly fallen a sacrifice to his humanity, for it was discovered about this time that the hunters were in the practice of withholding the game which they shot, and devouring it in secret.* Soon after this the party were joined by Mr Back, who had traced the lake about fifteen miles farther up without discovering any place where it was possible to get across ; and towards evening Credit, who had been out hunting, returned without any game of liis own killing ; but brought the antlers and back- lione of a deer shot during the summer. These re- hcs had been already picked clean by the wolves and birds of prey, but the marrow remained in the spine ; and though completely putrid, and so acrid as to excoriate the lips, it was not the less accept-- able. The bones were rendered friable by burning, and the whole eagerly devoured. St Germain, one of the voyagers, now suggested that a canoe might l)e made of the painted canvass used to wrap up the bedding, and offered to construct it upon a frame- work of willows. For this purpose he and Adam removed to a clump of willows, whilst another party proceeded to the spot where they had en- camped on the 25th, to collect pitch amongst the small pines to pay over the seams. A snow- storm at this moment came on, and the sufferings of the men hourly increasing, a deep gloom settled upon their spirits. Mr Hood was by this time reduced to a perfect shadow ; IVIr Back requir- ed the support of a stick ; Dr Richardson was lame ; and Franklin so feeble, that, after a struggle of three hours, he found himself utterly unable to reach the spot where St Germain was at work, a * Franklin's Journey, pp. 423, 424. 228 THE RIVER CROSSED. distance of only tlircc quarters of a mile, and re- turned completely exhausted. The Canadian voy- agers liad now fallen into a state of despondency which bordered on despair, and, indifferent to their fate, refused to make the slightest exertion. The of. ficers were unable to undergo th<' labour of gathering the tripe de ruche, and Samandre, the cook, sullenly declined continuing his labours. At this miserable crisis the conduct of John Hepburn,an English sailor, was especially admirable, j)resenting a striking con. trast to the gloomy selfishness of the Canadians. His firm reliance on the watchful goodness of God, and a cheerful resignation to his will, never for a moment forsook him ; and, animated by this bless- ed principle, his strength appeared to be preserved as the means of saving the party. He collected the tripe de roche for the officers' mess, cooked and served it out, and showed the most indefatigable zeal in his efforts to alleviate their sufferings. A gleam of hope at length arose, when St Germain completed the canoe. It was impossible not to feel that their last cliance of escape seemed to hang upon this little bark ; — would it prove sufficient for its purpose? or, constructed of such wretched materials, would it not at once sink to the bottom ? Amid this conflict of contending emotions it was launched on the river, and every heart bounded with exultation when it floated and St Germain transported himself to the opposite side. It was drawn back, and, one by one, the whole party were ferried over, though, from the leaky state of the little bark, their gar- ments and bedding were completely drenched. Franklin immediately despatched Mr Back and three men to push on to Fort Enterprise in searcli SLOW PROGRESS. 229 I', and rc- idiaii vov- spondcncy nt to tlu'ir 11. The of- f gathering k, sulk'iilv i miserable irlish sailor, rikiiig con- Canadians. :iss of God, lever for a ' tills bless- 3 preserved olleeted tlif ?ooked and idefatigable ings. 5t Germain not to feel hang upon lent for its materials, Amid this lunched on exultation ted himself k, and, one er, though, their gar- drenched. Back and e in searcli of the Indians, whilst he himself followed with the rest. Nothing could exceed the joy of the Canadian voyagers at this unlooked-for deliverance. Their spirits rose from the deepest despondency into tu- multuous exultation. They shook the officers by the hand, cried out that their worst diiliculties were at an end, and expressed a confident hope of being able to reach Fort Enterprise in the course of a few days, — a boisterous and sudden confidence, to which the silent gratitude and quiet resolution of the pious Hepburn presented a striking contrast. Their tents and bedclothes were so much frozen, ;md the men, who had kindled a small fire, so weary, that it was eight in the morning before the bundles were packed, and the party set forward. They tra- velled in single files, each at a small distance from his neighbour. Mr Hood, who was now nearly exhausted, was obliged to walk at a gentle pace in the rear, Dr Richardson kindly keeping beside him; whilst Franklin led the foremost men, that he miglit make them halt occasionally till the strag- glers came up. Credit, hitherto one of tlieir most active hunters, became lamentably WTak from the effects of tripe de roche on his constitution, and Vail- lant, from the same cause, was getting daily more emaciated. They only advanced six miles during the day, and at night satisfied the cravings of hun- ger by a small quantity of tripe de roche mixed up with some scraps of roasted leather. During the night the wind increased to a strong gale, which continuing next day, besides being piercingly cold, filled the atmosphere with a thick snow-drift. Hav- ing boiled and eaten the remains of their old shoes. 230 TWO BIEN LKFT IN THE SNOW. and every shred of leather whieli eould be pieked up, they set forward at nine over bleak liills sepa- rated by equally barren valleys. In this manner they journeyed till noon, not without much strangling and frequent halts, at which time Samandre came up with the melancholy news that Credit and Vaillant had dropt down and were utterly unable to proceed. Dr Richardson went back, and discovering Vaillant about a mile and a half in the rear, assured him that a fire was kindled a little way on, and that he would recover if he could but reach it ; the poor fellow struggled up on his feet, and feebly tried to advance, but fell down every step in the deep snow. Leaving him, Dr Rich- ardson retraced his steps about a mile farther in a fruitless search for Credit. In returning he passed Vaillant, who had fallen down, utterly unable to renew his efforts to rejoin the party. Belanger went back to carry his burden and assist him to the fire; but the cold had produced such a numbness that he eould not speak or make the slightest exertion. The stoutest of the party were now implored to make a last effort to transport him to the fire, but declared themselves utterly unable for the task. They eager- ly requested leave to throw down their loads, and proceed with the utmost speed to Fort Enterprise,— a scheme projected in the despair of the moment, and which must have brought destruction upon the whole. Matters had now reached a dreadful crisis ; it was necessary to come to an immediate decision regarding their ultimate measures, and a plan pro- posed by ]Mr Hood and Dr Richardson was adopted. These gentlemen consented to remain with a single attendant at the first spot where there were sufficient RICHARDSON AND HOOD REMAIN. 231 firewood and tripe de roclie for ten days' eonsump- tion, wliilst Franklin and the rest were to proeeed with all expedition to Fort Enterprise, and send immediate assistance. This scheme promised to re- lieve tliem of a considerable portion of their burdens, —for one of tlie tents and various other articles were to be left; and it gave poor Credit and Vaillant a fairer opportunity, should they revive, of regaining their companions. On the resolution being commu- nicated to the men, they were cheered with the pros- pect of an alleviation of their misery, and pressed forward in search of a convenient spot for the pro- posed separation. Near nightfall they encamped under the lee of a hill amongst some willows, which furnished a small fire, but not sufficiently strong to thaw their frozen clothes ; and no tripe de roche having been found during the day, they lay down hungry, cold, and full of the gloomiest apprehensions, wliilst sleep fled from their eyelids, and the images of their dying companions rose before their imagina- tion in colours which made them shudder for a fate that might so soon become their own.* Next morning the weather providentially was mild, and setting out at nine they arrived towards noon at a thicket of willows, in the neighbourhood of some rocks bearing a pretty full supply of tripe de rv,^he. Here Dr Richardson and Mr Hood determined to remain. The tent was pitched, a barrel of ammu- nition and other articles were deposited, and Hep- burn, wiio volunteered the service^ was appointed to continue with them. The rest of the party now had only to carry a single tent, the ammunition, and the officers' journals, in addition to their own clothes * Franklin's Journey, pp. 431, 4'62, 232 FRANKLIN PUSHES FOHWAni) : Hiid a sin<^l<' blanket for Captain PVanklin. Wluii all was ready, the whole party united in thanks^riv- ing and prayers to Almighty <^rod for their mutual preservation^ and separated with tlie melaneholy re- flection, that it might in all probability be the last time they should ever again meet in this world. On leaving their friends Captain Franklin and his party descended into a more level country ; but the snow lay so deep, and they were so little able to wade through it that they encamped, after a painful march of only four miles and a half, in which Be. langer, and Michel an Iroquois, were left far behind, yet still struggling forward. In the evening they came in dreadfully exhausted, and Belanger, ti' lowone of the strongest of the party, could not r i from tears as he declared he was totally unable to proceed, and implored permission to return to Dr Richardson and Mr Hood. iMichel made the same request, and it was agreed that they should do so. The cold of the night was excessive, and the men were so weak that they could not raise the tent ; from its weight it was impossible to transport it from place to place, and it was cut up, the canvass serving them for a cover- ing; but, though they lay close together, the in- tense frost deprived them of sleep. Having no tripe de roclie they had supped upon an infusion of the Labrador tea-plant, with a few morsels of burnt leather. Michel and Belanger, being apparently more exhausted in the morning than over night, were left, whilst the rest moved forward. After a very short progress Perrault was attacked with a fit of dizziness ; but, on lialting a little, again proposed to proceed. In ten minutes, however, he sunk down^ and, weeping aloud, declared his total in- IIIH PAIITY RKDUCKU TO FIVK . When lanks^riv- r niutua iclioly re- (* the last vorld. ikliii and itry ; but le able to a painful k'bicli Bc- ir lu'liind, they came low one 1 from proceed, ichardsoii est, and it •old of the iveak tliat gilt it was aee, and r a cover- the in- g no tripe on of the of burnt pparently er night, After a with a fit proposed he sunk total in- ai)ility to ffo on. lie was aeeordingly advised to rejoin iMiehel and Uelarii^er, — a proposal in wliicli I I lie a('(|uies('ed. I'liese examples of the total failure of the stron abandon the ori- ginal intention of proceeding wiin the whole party to Fort Providence, and Peltier and Samandre, who were in almost as weak a state, having expressed a wish to * Franklin's Journey, pp. 440, 441. FRANKLIN ATTEMPTS TO PROCEED. 237 note by arrowly 3s, wrap over his e he re- ms with »ut little \ trace of L appear- country ated^ in- i Indian , — a dis- [)poscd to [, though it as the ke it out, of Cap. fifth day rt with a nen whu ecame so g, and it mie time ious parts usly con- ements of this poor 11 the ori- e party to who were a wish to remain with Adam, Captain Franklin, along with Augustus and Benoit, determined to press on to Fort Providence, and to send relief to their companions by the first party of Indians they should meet. Having accordingly given directions regarding the journals and charts which were left in their custody, and the best mode of forwarding succour to ]\Ir Hood and Dr Richardson, Franklin set forward with his two attendants ; but so feeble had they become, that the distance accomplished in six hours was only four miles. They encamped on the borders of Round Rock Lake, and, unable to find any tripe de roche, made their supper upon fried deer-skin. The night proved intensely cold, and although they crept as close to each other as possible, they shivered in every limb, and the wind pierced through their famished frames.* Next morning was mild, and they set out early, but had scarce proceeded a few yards, when Franklin fell between two rocks and broke his snow-shoes, an accident which incapacitated him from keeping up with Renoit and Augustus. In a very short time his attempt to press forward com- pletely exhausted him ; and as the only hope of pre- serving the lives of the party appeared to rest on their speedily reaching Fort Providence, he determined, rather than retard them, to retrace his steps to the house whilst they proceeded for assistance. Call- ing a moment's halt, he addressed one note to Mr Back, requesting an immediate supply of meat from Rein Deer Lake, and another to the commandant at Fort Providence, with urgent intreaties for assist, ance. This done, Augustus and Benoit resumed their journey, and Franklin returned to the house. * Franklin's Journey, p. 444. 238 FRANKLIN JOINED BY HIS FRIENDS, On arriving he found Adam, Samandre, and Pel- tier still alive; but the two first, whose minds seem- ed quite enfeebled, could not be prevailed on to leave their bed, and their nervous weakness was so great that they scarcely ceased shedding tears all day. It was even with difficulty that they were prevailed on to take any nourishment ; and the labour of cut- ting and carrying fuel, gathering the tripe de roche, and cooking, fell entirely upon FranKlin and Peltier. The frost was now so severe that it was evident this lichen would soon be bound up in ice, and, as their strength daily declined, every exertion became irksome. When once seated, it required a painful effort to rise up, and not unfrequently they had to lift each other from their chairs. This miserable condition could not last long. Peltier soon became almost incapable of holding the hatchet ; the bone- soup had grown so acrid as to corrode the inside of their mouths ; the tripe de roche, covered with ice, defied all efforts to detach it from the rock ; and though the rein-deer sported on the banks of the river, no one had strength to go after them, or to hold a gun so steadily as to secure an aim. Still the hopes and cheerfulness of Franklin did not desert him. From his knowledge of the places mostly frequented at iiat season by the Indians, he was sanguine as to the likelihood of their being found ; and their speedy arrival formed a constant subject of conversation. At length on the evening of the 29th, when talking of this long looked-for re- lief, and sitting round the fire, Peltier suddenly leapt up and uttered a joyful exclamation, imagining he heard the bustle of the Indians in the adjoining room. It was not the Indians, however, but Dr DR RICHARDSON AND HEPBURN. 239 nd Pel- is seem- to leave so great ill day. revailed r of cut- le roche, Peltier. evident and, as I became L painful i^ had to iiiserable I became le bone- inside of with ice, ck; and s of the or to Iklin did le places lians, he [ir being constant evening td-for re- Inly leapt lining he [djoining but Dr Richardson and Hepburn, wlio came in each car- rying his bundle. The meeting was one of mingled joy and sorrow. Poor Hood's absence was instantly perceived, and their saddest anticipations were con- firmed by Dr Richardson declaring that this young officer and Michel were dead, and that neither Per. rault nor Fontano had reached the tent, or been heard of. Such news could not fail to create despondency. All were shocked at the emaciated countenances and hollow voices of Dr Richardson and his com- panion, while Captain Franklin and his fellow- sufferers, having become gradually accustomed to the dreadful effects of famine upon each other, were not aware that, to the eyes of tlieir friends who had just arrived, the alteration upon themselves was equally melancholy. " The doctor," says Frank- lin, " particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices, which he requested us to make more cheerful if possible, not aware that his own partook of the same key."* The arrival of these friends, however, was soon at- tended with a favourable change. Though greatly reduced they were still in a better condition than their unfortunate companions, and it was not long till Hepburn shot a partridge. Dr Richardson speedily tore off the feathers, and having held it for a few mi- nutes at the fire divided it into six pieces : Franklin and his companions ravenously devoured their por- tions, "■ being the first morsel of flesh that any of them liad tasted for thirty-one days," and Dr Richardson (^lieered them with the prospect that Hepburn might possibly bring in a deer in his next expedition. The counsels and example of this pious and intelli- gent man produced the best effects on the spirits * Franklin's Journey, p. 447. 240 HAPPY EFFECT OF IIEPBURN's COUNSELS. of the party. He had brouglit witli him his Testa- ment and Prayer-bookj and by reading portions of scripture appropriate to their situation, and en- couraging tliem to join in prayer and thanksgiving, he led them to the only source whence, under the awful circumstances in which they were placed, they could derive hope or consolation. He taught them the necessity of exertion, whatever pain it might at first cost ; roused them to pay some atten- tion to the cleanliness of their apartment, and in- sisted particularly, that during tlie day they should roll up their blankets, which they had been in the practice of leaving beside the fire where they slept. Their several tasks were now allotted to each ; Hepburn and Richardson went out in search of deer ; while Franklin, being unable to walk far, remain- ed nearer the house, and digged under the snow for skins, which, during their former happy winter resi- dence at this station, when they killed and ate abundance of game, were thrown away as useless, but now in their almost putrid state formed their principal support. The cutting of firewood was intrusted to Peltier and Samandre ; but both were so weak and dispirited that it was generally per- formed by Hepburn on his return from hunting ; as for Adam, his legs were still so severely swollen that he kept his bed, though an operation perform- ed by Dr Richardson gave him some ease. In the midst of these necessary cares, all seemed for a while to dread approaching the subject of Hood and Michel's death ; but at length one evening, on the return of the Doctor from hunting, and after having despatched their usual supper of singed skin and bone-soup, they requested him to relate the particu- lars, and a more afflicting, or in some respects a GLS. RICHARDSON S NARRATIVE. 241 s Testa- •tions of ind en- [sgiving, , under B placed, 3 taught pain it le atten- and in- j should m in the liey slept, to each ; \\ of deer ; , remain- ) snow for inter resi- and ate iS useless, ned their v^ood was )0tli were rally per- liunting ; y swollen perform- . In the led for a lood and ig, on the |er having skin and particu- respects a more terrific story, as it appears in iiis puhlished narrative, could not well be conceived. He stated, that after being left by Captain P>ank- liu they remained beside the fire as long as it lasted. Having no tripe de roclie, they supped on an infusion (if the country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, but afforded no nourishment, and retired to rest. Next day proved stormy, and the snow being sO deep that a fire could not be kindled with the green willows, they lay in bed reading some religious books with which the party had been furnished before leav- ing England by the alTectionate and pious care of a lady. " They proved," says Richardson, '' of in- calculable benefit to us. We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our si- tuation in these wilds appeared no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with calmness but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope upon our future prospects." '' The weather clearing up, Dr Richardson went out in search of tripe de roclie, leaving i\Ir Hood in bed and Hepburn cutting willows for a fire ; but the rocks were covered with ice and snow, and he was unsuc- cessful. On his return he found Michel the Iro- quois, who delivered the note from Franklin. t All were surprised to see him alone ; but he stated that Belanger had separated from him, and, as he sup- posed, lost his way, he himself having wandered far Franklin's Journey, p. 44'J. t Ibid. |). 441». P 242 3IICHKL S SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT. from the straight road. Tlicy had afterwards good reason to suspect tlie truth of this story, but believed it at tliat moment, and were rejoiced to see him produce a hare and a partridge, — an unlooked-for supply, which they received with humble thankful, ness to the Giver of all good. Franklin's note ad. vised them to advance to a little wood of piiu> which would afford better fuel ; and to this they re. moved under the guidance of Michel, who led thtni straight to the spot. As he had declared himself so little acquainted with the country as to lose his way, it seemed strange that he should at once conduct them to tlie thicket. This roused their attention, and ir.adt them feel rather uneasy as to his honesty ; and va- rious circumstances occurred to increase their sus. picions. He requested the loan of a hatchet, when any other hunter would have taken only his knife. He remained abroad all day without any definite employment. He brought them some raw meat, saying it was part of the carcass of a wolf; i>ut which they had afterwards reason to believe was a portion of the bodies of Belanger and Perraiilt, whom they suspected him to have murdered. He shunned the society of Dr Richardson and Mr Hood, refusing to sleep in the tent, and preferring to lit alone at the fire. On going out with the purpose of remaining a whole day, he often returned abruptly. and when questioned gave vague answers. In « few days he began to regret that he had left Cap- tain Franklin's party, refused to take any share in the labour of cutting wood, talked in a surly and insolent manner, and could scarcely be prevailed upon to go out and hunt at all. These symptoms MUltDEU OP 3111 HOOD. L>4a rvards good ut believed to see him n looked- for e tliaiikful- I's note ad. Dd of piiu> his they re- ho led thtni acquainted , it seemed them to the and madt y; and va- e their sus- itchet, wlien y his knife. any definite ■ raw meat, wolf; but lelieve was a d Perrault, 'dered. He Id Mr Hood, irring to lie le purpose of id abruptly Ivers. In i^ left Cap. ly share in surly and prevailed symptoms ,)f gloomy dissatisfaction increased; he resisted all entreaties, and when IMr Hood, who was now re- duced by famine to the last extremity, remonstrated with him, he flew into a violent passion, and ex- claimed, " It is of no use hujiting ; there are no ani- mals; you had better kill and eat me." He after- wards, however, consented to go out, but returned upon some frivolous pretence ; and on the succeed- ing day that dreadful catastrophe took place, which will be best given in the words of Dr Richardson's Journal. " In the mo.'ning/' says he, " being Sunday, Oc- tober 20th, we again urged IMichel to go a-hunting, that he might, if possible, leave us some provision, to-morrow being the day appointed for his quitting us; but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire under the pretence of cleaning his gun. After we had read the morning service I went about noon to gather some tripe de roclie, leaving Mr Hood sitting before the tent at the fireside arguing with IMichel. Hepburn was employed cutting down a tree at a small dis- tance from the tent, being desirous of accumulat- ing a quantity of firewood. A short time after i went out I heard the report of a gun, and about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to me in a voice of great alarm to come directly. When I arrived I found poor Hood lying lifeless at the fireside, a ball having apparently entered his fore- liead. I was at first horror-struck with ihe idea that in a fit of despondency he had hurried him- self into the presence of his Almighty Judge by an act of his own hand ; but the conduct of Michel soon gave rise to other thoughts, and excited suspi- 244 MURDKR OF IMIl HOOD cions wliicli were confirmed, when, upon cxamin. hiff tlie body, I found tliat the shot had entered IIk back part of tlie head and liad passed out at the fort-- head, whilst the muzzle of tlie gun had been ap. plied so close as to set fire to the nightcap behind. The gun, which was of the longest kind supplied to the Indians, could not have been placed in the po. sition to inflict such a wound except by a second person. Upon inquiring of Michel how it hap. pened, he replied that Mr Hood Iiad sent him into the tent for the short gun, and that during his ab- sence the long gun had gone off, he did not know whether by accident or not. He Iield the short gun in his hand at the time he was speaking. Hepburn afterwards asserted, that previous to the report of the gun, Mr Hood and Michel were speaking to each other in an elevated angry tone ; — he added, that ]\Ir Hood being seated at tlie fireside was hid from him by intervening willows; but that on hearing the report he looked up, and saw Midiel rising up from before the tent-door, or just behind where Mr Hood was seated, and then going into the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged for the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go to th*' fire at first ; and when IMichel called to him that Mr Hood was dead, a considerable time had elapsed. '^' * Bickersteth's Scripture Help was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen from his hand, and it is probable he was reading it at the instant of his death."* Sucli w^as the melancholy fate of Mr Hood. a young officer of the highest promise, who by his * Franklin's Journey, vol. iv. r2mo ed. p. 10*J — 1 12. BY MICIIKL TIIK lUOQUOIS. 24: i> n oxamin. 'iitert'd llic at the fort'- d been ap- ap behind. supplied to in tlie po. )y a second )W it Imp. t him into ing liis al). L not know e short gun Hepburn le report ol speaking to —lie added, ie was liid Lit that on saw IMii'liel ust beliind nji into tlu' discharged go to th'' im that Mr ad elapsed. ying open his hand, the instant iNIr Hood. ho by his .112. conduct had endeared himself to every member of the expedition, and whose sufferings, as they were more intense from the peculiarity of his constitution, were bonn* with a placid and unpretendi'ig forti- tude, which it was impo.ssible to contemplate with- ;iut emotion. Both Dr Richardson and Hepburn were convinced he had met his death from the hands of Michel ; but to have accused him at that mo- ment would have been the extremity of rashness. They were so reduced by famine that he could easi- ly have overpowered both. His appearance showed that he possessed secret supplies of food ; he was of great bodily strength, and was aruied to the teeth, carrying, besides his gun, a brace of pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. To have hinted a suspicion, therefore, might have been instantly fatal, and they affected to consider the death of their com- panion entirely accidental. As his weakness had been the chief cause of delaying their journey, they now set out for the fort, having first paid the last rites to the dead in the only way which their situatioji would permit. The ground was so hard and their strength so exhausted, that to dig a grave was impos- sible ; so they carried the body into the willow grove l)ehind the tent, and returning to the fire read the funeral service in addition to their evening devotions. In the morning, having singed the hair off a por- tion of ]\Ir Hood's buffalo robe, they boiled and ate it for breakfast. Meanwhile, the conduct of IMichel was so extraordinary, that had they not been already convinced of his guilt, no doubt of it could have remained. Though not a breath of their suspi- cions reached his ears, he repeatedly protested that he was incapable of committing such an act ; he l>4() TURK ATS OK MICIIKL : kept constantly on iiis guard ; .'ippcarcd IVarful oi leaving Dr Hicliardson and Ilcphurn alone «'v«'ii for the sliortest time ; and wlien Ilephurn spoke In listened anxiously, though very iniperfeetly a(. (|uainted with the English huiguage, fixed his eyes keenly upon him, and asked fiercely if he accused him of the murder. He evinced great unwillingness to set out for the lort, and wished l)r Richardson to proceed to the t'opperminc River, where he said tin woods would supply plenty of deer. On findini; this advice disreganh'd his r(*nduct Inranie more and more alarming ; lie muttered to himself, fell into sullen fits of abstraction, and used those convulsivi and abrupt gestures often involuntarily exhibited ii\ a person whose mind is full of some dreadful purpos- Suddenly awakening from this reverie, he again ex- pressed his unwillingnetis to rf turn to the fort, and '•«newed his soli, 'tat'ons to Dr Ricliardson to repaii to the southern v/oods, wliere they would tiiii ample subsistence. On oeing requested to pursut his own plan alone and leave them to continui their journey, he broke into an ungovernable fury. accused Hepburn of having told stories against him, and assumed such airs of superiority as showed that he knew they were both in his power, at tin same time giving vent to expressions of hatred Pgainst the white people, calling them deadly < iiemi''^, and affirming they had killed and eaten his imcle and two of his relations. None of tliese menaces were lost upon Richard- son and Hepburn ,• both felt they were not safe in this man's company; and tlicise dread fid surmises rose into certainty when he ihrewout hints that in would free himself from all restraint ni *'ie morrow. HIM DKATII. 247 I (t'ari'ul (Ji alone even rii spoke In erteetly ac- ced his eves • lie aceiised ivvilliii^MU'i«> ieliardson tn ' he said tin On lindiriL' ne more and A{\ fell into e convulsive 'xhibited ii\ Iful purpose he again ex- he fort, and m\ to repaii would li!;^ 'd to pursut to eontiniit rnable fury, ries against \' as showed wer, at tlif Itrt dp gainst pena^'a, and uncle and |vn Rieliard- Jnot safe in lid surmises iit^s that hf he morrow. IJi'ing now convinced that, as he had cruelly mur- dered Hood, he was resolved also to sacrifice them, they ascribed his not having already done so to the eircumsta!ice of his not knowing the way to the fort, and H'cjuiring their guidance. They camt» to this conclusion without any communication with each ()ther; for their fierce coinj)anion would not leave tiiem a moment, watching them with a malignant look, and frecjueiitly muttering threats against Ilep- hiirn. Towards evening, as they a|)proached the spot where it would be necessary to stop for the night, Michel halted to gather tripe de roche, and to their surprise bade them walk on and he wouid soon over- take them. Hepburn and J)r Richardson, now left nlone together for the first time since ^Mr Hood's death, rapidly opened their minds to each other. In addition to the facts already mentioned, others came to light, which left not the slightest doubt as to Michel's guilt ; and so convinced was Hepburn of there being no safety for them but in his death, that, though a man of extreme benevolence and deep re- ligious principle, he offered to be the instrument of it himself. " Had my own life," says Dr Richardson, " alone been threatened, I would not liave purchas- ed it by such a measure ; but I considered myself as intrusted also with the protection of Hepburn's, a man who by his humane attentions and devoted- iiess had so endeared himself to me, that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own." Animat- ed by such feelings, and convinced that Michel's death was necessary to self-preservation, he deter, rained that it ought to be by his own and not by Hep- burn's hand, and on his coming up shot him through the head with a pistol. It appeared that he had ga- 24» AllJUVAL AT THE FOt;t, thored no tripe de roclio, and liaa lialtcd to put ]\\> gun in order, no doubt with the intention of attack- ing them wlien in tlie aet of encamping. " Dr Kiehardson and Ilephurn now pursued their way to tile fort; but fatigue, and want of food and fiul. had nearly proved fatal to them. They remarked, liowever, that rej)eatedly when death seemed inevit- able an unexpected supply of provisions a^'ain restor- ed them ; and the confidence that, when no human help was nigh, they were supported by a merciful God, inspired them with renewed hope. At last tiu \ had the delight of beholding from an eminence tin smoke issuing from the chimney of the fort, and immediately after embracing those friends for whusi fate tliey had entertained so many melancholy fon- bodings. So ended this interesting narrative. The whole party were now once more united, but under circumstances of the most distressing pri- vation ; all emaciated to such a degree as to look like living skeletons ; their hands shook from weak- ness, so that to take an aim was impossible ; and the rein-deer, partridges, and other game, flew or bounded past in joyousness and security, whilst tlie unhappy beings who beheld them were gaunt with hunger. The winter was closing in with all its horrors ; it became daily more difficult to procuri fuel, the labour of cutting and carrying the logs be- ing so grievous that only Dr Richardson and Hep- burn could undertake it; and to scrape the ground for bones, and to cook this miserable meal, was all Captain Franklin could accomplish. On 1st No- vember, the Doctor obtained scmie tripe de roche; and * Franklin's Journey, pji. 457j 458. I to put \\\> n of attack - rsued their odandfiul. ' remarked. tiiL'd inevit- ^'ain restor- i no huiiiaii ' a men'ifu! ;Vt last tlu V iiinencc tlu e fort, aii'l Is for whose ic'lioly fore- ative. ore united, ressing pri- as to louk oni weak- sible; and le, flew or whilst the Taunt witli ith al! its to prociiri le logs be- lid Hep- he ground al, was all 1 1st No- oehe; and DEATH OF PELTIER AND SA^I/NDHE. '2V.) as Peltier and Samandre were in the last stage of exhaustion, it was hoped a little of the souj) might revive them. All was in vain ; they tasted a few spoonfuls, but soon complained of a soreness in their tiiroats, and both died in the course of the night, ap- parently without pain. To inter the bodies, or even carry them to the river, was a task for which the unit- ed strength of the survivors was inadequate; all they could do was to remove them into an opposite part of the house ; and the living and the dead remained in awful contiguity under the same roof. The party was now reduced to four, — Frank- lin, Richardson, Hepburn, and Adam. The last had become dreadfully low since the death of his companions, and could not bear to be left alone for a moment. Their stock of bones was exhausted, and in a short time it was evident that the severity of the frost must render the gathering of the tripe de roche impossible. Under these circumstances, with death l»y famine approaching every hour, this little band of pious and brave men were supported by an un- wavering reliance on the mercy of God. '^ We read prayers," says Captain Franklin, " and a portion of the New Testament in the morning and evening, as iiad been our practice since Dr Richardson's ar- rival ; and I may remark, that the performance of these duties always afforded us the greatest conso- lation, serving to reanimate our hope in the mercy of the Omnipotent, who alone could save and deli- ver us."* It seemed as if it were the mysterious design of the Almighty to permit them to be re- duced to the lowest depth of suflering, that his * Fraukliii's Journev, p. 404. 250 UNEXPECTED RELIEF. power might be magnified at the very moment when every human effort appeared utterly impo- tent. Hitherto l)r Rieliardson and Hepburn had been the healtliiest of the party, but they had over- wrought themselves, and both sunk rapidly. Owiiif: to their loss of flesh, the hardness of the floor, from which they were only protected by a single blanket, rendered the whole surface of their bodies sore ; vet the labour of turning from one side to the other was too much for them. As their strength sunk^, thtir mental faculties partook of the weakness of their frame ; and, to employ the candid and simple ex- pressions of the excellent leader, " an unreason- able pettishness with each other began to manifesl itself, each believing the other weaker in intel- lect than himself, and more in need of advice and assistance." During this gloomy period, after the first acute pains of hunger, which lasted but for three o; four days, had subsided, they generally enjoyed the refreshment of sleep, accompanied by dreams which for the most part partook of a pleasant character, and very often related to the pleasures of feasting."^ Help, however, was now near at hand, and W( shall not impair the affecting description of their deliverance by giving it in any other than Captain Franklin's own words : — "On November 7tli, Adam liad passed a restless night, being disquieted bv gloomy apprehensions of approaching death, whicii they tried in vain to dispel. He was so low in the morning as scarcely to be able to speak, and Cap- tain Franklin remained by his bedside to cheer him as much as possible, whilst the Doctor and * Franklin's .lournov, pp. 4Hy, 4(Jii. ARRIVAL OF THE INDIANS. 251 J moment rly impu- iburn had Imd over. y. Owin<: loor, from e blanket, sore; vet other was link, thiir 5S of their iimple ex- iinreasoii- manifest in intel- idvice and ter the first or three o; II joyed the anis which raeter, and ting."' I, and \v» m of their 111 Captain 7th, Adam uieted hy th, wliicli low in tlic and Cap- i to cheer loetor and Hepburn went out to eut wood. They had hardly begun their labour when they were amazed at hearing the report of a musket, and could scarcely believe that ther ? was any one near till they heard a shout, and espied three Indians close to the house. Adam and Franklin heard the latter noise, and were fearful that some part of the house had fallen upon one of their companions, — a disaster which had been thought not unlikely. The alarm w^as only momentary; for Dr Richardson came in to communicate the joyful intelligence that relief had arrived. He and Captain Franklin imme- diately addressed their thanksgivings to the Tiirone of IVIercy for this deliverance ; but poor Adam w^as in so low a state that he could scarcely comprehend tlie information. When the Indians entered he at- tempted to rise, but immediately sank down again. But for this seasonable interposition of Providence, his existence must have terminated in a few hours, and that of the rest probably in not many days."* The Indians who had been despatched by IMrBack iiad travelled with great ex edition, and brought a small supply of provisions. They imprudent- ly presented too much food at first ; and though aware of the effects which might arise from a sur- feit, and warned by Dr Richardson to eat very spar- ingly, the sight of the venison was irresistible ; and it was devoured by them all, not excluding the Doc- tor himself, with an avidity that soon produced the most acute pains, which during the night deprived them of rest. Adam, whose weakness rendered him unable to feed himself, was not subjected to the * Franklin's Journey) [>• 407. GRKAT KINDNlibS OF TIIK INDIANS. same inconvonieiicC;, and taking moderate meals revived hourly. All now was thankfulness and cheerful activity. J3oudel-kell, the youngest In- dian, after an hour's rest, returned to the en- campment of AkaitchOj the Dog-rib chief, carry- ing a note from Captain Franklin, and a request for another sup})ly of provisions. The two others, named in their familiar manner Crooked Foot and the Rat, remained to nurse the white men. Under their care the apartment lately so desolate, and something between a sepulchre and a lazar-house, assumed a gladdened hjok which had the best ef- fect. The dead bodies were removed, the room cleaned of its filth and fragments of pounded bones, and large cheerful fires produced a sensation of comfort to which they Iiad long been strangers. The poor sufferers had often cast a wishful eye on a pile of dried wood near the river, but were utter- ly unable to carry it up the bank. When pointed out to the Indians, they fetched it liome with a ra- pidity which astonished their feeble friends. " They set about every thing," says Franklin, " with an activity which amazed us. Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures and extreme debility, their frames appeared to us gigantic, and their strengtii supernatural." Under the care of the Indians, and the bless- ing of w holesome and regular meals, the strength of the party w^as so far restored, that, although still feeble, on the 1 6th, after having united in prayer and thanksgiving to God for their deliver- ance, they left Fort Enterprise, — a spot where, as they had formerly enjoyed much comfort if not happiness, they had latterly experienced a de- JS. CONCLUSION OF THE EXPEDITION. 253 ate meals iliiess and ingest In- 3 the en- ief, oarry- a request ^vo others, [ Foot and n. Under Dlate, and izar-house, le best ef- the room ded bones, nsation of strangers, iful eye on vere utter- *n pointed with a ra- s. "Thev ' witli an lasted with jlity^ their strengtli Ithe bless- strength although mited in deliver- )t where, lomfort if ced a de- gree of misery scarcely to be paralleled.* The Indians treated them with unremitting kindness, gave them their own snow-shoes, and walked at their side to be ready to lift them up when they fell. In this manner they pushed forward to the abode of Akaiteho, the Indian chief, who welcomed them with the utmost hospitality. Soon after they received letters from their friends at Fort Provi. dence, and the messenger also brought two trains of dogs, a package of spirits and tobacco for the In- dians, and a supply of shirts and clothes for Cap- tain Franklin and his companions. The gratifica- tion of changing their Vhva, which had been unin- terruptedly worn ever since their departure from the seacoast, is described as conveying an intensity of comfort to which no words can do justice. From this spot their progress to Fort Providence and thence to IMontreal was prosperous and easy; and thus terminated their long, fatiguing, and disastrous tra- vels in North America, having journeyed by water and by land, including their navigation of the Po- lar Sea, 5550 miles. So disastrous had been the result of his first expe- dition, and so appalling the sufferings with which it was accompanied, that nothing assuredly can con- vey a more honourable testimony to the enthusias- tic zeal and unshaken perseverance of Captain Franklin, than the statement of the simple fact, that towards the close of 1823, having learnt the determination of government to make another at- tempt to eflfect a northern passage by sea between tile Atkntic and Pacific Oceans, he, to use his own * Franklin's Journey, p. 4/0. 254 FIIANKLIN S SKCOM) .JOURNEY : words, '' ventured to lay before his Majesty's go- vernment a plan for an expedition overland to the mouth of the JNIackenzie River, and thenee by sea to the north-western extremity of America, witli the combined object also of surveying the coast be- tween the IMackenzie and the Coppermine Rivers." It was the opinion of this able officer that, in the course he now proposed to follow, reverses similar to those which had surrounded his first journey were scarcely to be apprehended ; and his views liav. ing met the approbation of government, lie received directions for the equipment of the expedition, and was nominated its commander. He had the satis- faction also of being once more accompanied by his valued friend Dr Richardson, who, unappalled by his former dreadful sufferings, again off*ered his services as naturalist and surgeon, and volunteered to un- dertake the survey of the coast between the Macken- zie and Coppermine Rivers, while Captain Franklin was occupied in an attempt to reach Icy Cape." Pre- vious to the departure of the ships a correspondence was opened with the governor and directors of tlif Hudson's Bay Company ; who transmitted injunc tions to their officers in the fur-countries, to provide depots of provisions at the stations pointed out by Franklin. The building of proper boats for the navigation of the Arctic Sea, as well as the passage of the rapids between York Factory and Mackenzie River, formed the next object of attention. It was evident that the canoes of birch-bark employed by Sir A. Macken- zie, and by Captain Franklin in his first journey. * Franklin's Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of tlic Polar Seiu Introductory Chapter, p. 10. jesty's go- nd to the ice by sea Tica, witli I coast be- e Rivers." lat, in tlie es similar ;t journey /iews hav- e received ition, and the satis- ied by his lied by his lis services red to un- s IMacken- 1 Franklin pe." Pre- spondence ;ors of the d in June- provide :d out by i^igation of le rapids er, formed It that the Mackeii- journey. lie Shores ihough excellently adapted for the American rivers, uniting lightness and facility of repair with speed, were yet, from the tenderness of the bark, little fit- ted to resist the force of the arctic waves, or the collision of the sharp-pointed masses of ice. Captain Franklin accordingly obtained the Admiralty's per- mission to have three boats constructed at Wool- wich under his own superintendence. " They were huilt," says he, " of mahogany, with timbers of ash, both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a ship-oar or a rudder. The largest, being twenty-six feet long and five feet four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an officer ; it was found to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the crew, and could be transported with ease on the shoulders of six men. The two other boats were twenty-four feet in length, four feet ten inches broad, and held a crew of live men, besides a steersman and an officer, with an extra weight of two and a half tons. In addition to these another little vessel was constructed at Woolwich, which reflected great credit upon its inventor, Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley of the Royal Engineers. Its shape was exactly that of one of tile valves of a walnut-shell, and it was framed of well-seasoned planks of ash fastened together with thongs, and covered with IMackintosh s prepared can- vass. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, and when taken to pieces could be made up in five or six par- cels, and again put together in less than twenty mi- nutes, although it was nine feet long by four feet four inches in breadth."* Each person on board * Franklin's Second Journey, Intro. Chap. pp. lil, 18, 2r,G DKPARTURK OF THE EXPEDITION. was provided witli two suits of wator-proof dresses, prepared by Mr IMaekintosli of Glasgow ; tlie guns, which were of the same l)ore as tlie fowliiig-pieees furnished by the Hudson's Bay Company to the In- dian liunters^ had their Joeks tempered to resist the cold ; each Ix'iiig fitted witli a l)road Indian dagger simihir to a bayonet, wliich, on being disjoined, could be used as a knife. Ammunition of tJie best quality, and a store of provisions suflicient for two years, were also supplied. The expedition sailed from Liverpool on lOtli February 1825, and after a favourable passage tc New York proceeded to Albany, travelled througli Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, crossed the Niagara and Lake Ontario, coasted the northern shore of Lake Superior, and thence pushed forward through Rainy Lake, the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipefi, Saskatchawan River, and arrived at Cumberland House on 15th June. From this station, proceeding northward to Isle a la Crosse, and passing throuf^li Deep River and Clear and Buffalo Lakes, thev overtook their boats in IMethye River on the morn- ing of 2i)th June. The advanced period of the sea- son rendered it impossible to embark on the Mac kenzie before the middle of August, so that it be- came necessary to postpone the great expedition till the ensuing summer. They accordingly esta- blished their winter-quarters on the banks, erecting a habitation and store, which they named Fort Franklin. The superintendence of these buildings was committed to Lieutenant Back, while Captain Franklin determined to descend the river, take a view of the state of the Polar Sea, and return to winter-quarters before the extreme cold should set in. ARRIVAL AT WUALE ISLAND. f (Iressi'S, the guns, iig-pieces the In- resist tlu' \n dagger lisjoined, ;' the best it for two on IGth )assage tc tl tiirougli e Niagara 1 shore ot d througli ! Winipeg, iniberland )roceedin^ g througli kes, they lie moru- f the sea- the Mac at it be- [xpeditioii igly esta- L ereeting Ined Fort Ibuildings Captain [r, take a return to lid set in In this voyage there oecurred nothing worthy of particular notice till the arrival at Whale Island, wliere, though ^Mackenzie liad the strongest reasons to conclude that he had n'ached the sea, he appears not to have been conipleti^ly satisfied on that point. Probably his doubts arose from the fresh taste of* the water. Franklin, however, proceeded beyond Whale Island, and reached the shore of the great Arctic Ocean. " Embarking," says he, '^at eleven A.M., we continued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found its coast trendingsouth- ward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced at the sea-like appearance to the northward. An island was now discovered to the north-east, looking blue from its distan(!e, towards which the boat was immediately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles had been very shallow^ became gradu- ally deeper, and of a more green colour, though still fresh, even when w^e had entirely lost sight of the eastern land. In the middle of the traverse we were caught by a strong contrary wind, against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours. Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our search, when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted the sails went set double-reefed, and our excellent boat mounted over the waves in a most buoyant manner, whilst an opportune alter- ation of the wind enabled us in the course of another hour to fetch into smoother w ater under the shelter of the island. We then pulled across a line of strong ripple, wliich marked the termination of the fresh water, that on the seaw^ard side being brackish ; and in the farther progress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable pleasure of finding the wa- Q 258 ACCURACY OF MACKENZIE. ter decidedly salt. The sun was setting as the boat touched the l)eaeh ; we liasteiied to the most elevated part of the ishiiid, about 250 feet liigh, to look around ; and never was a prospect more gratifying tlian that which lay open to us. Th» Rocky J\Iountains were seen from S. W. to W.^N. and from the latter point, round by the north, tht sea appeared in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible obstruction to its navi. gtition. IMany seals and black and white whales were seen sporting on its waves, and tin; whole scene was calculated to excite in our minds the most flat- tering expectations of ^ur own success and that ol our friends in the Ilec ... and the Fury."- Frank, lin pronounces a liigh encomium on the accuracy of INIackenzie, and considers him as completely en. titled to the praise of having reached the Arctic 8ea, although, owing to the frail construction of the In- dian canoes, it was impossible for him to sail to tlu point where the water became salt. Having accomplished his design in this prelimi- nary journey, Franklin returned on 5th Septem- ber to his winter-quarters on Great Bear Luke About the same time Dr Richardson arrived from his excursion to the north-eastern shores of the sani( extensive sheet of water, having completed his sur- vey as far as the influx of Dease's River, and as- certained that the first rapid was the best point to which the eastern detachment of the expedition should direct its course on their return from tin Coppermine in the following season. Meantime the people were so busily employed that time never * Frankliu's Second Journey, p. 34 — 36. WINTER RMPLOYMENTS. 259 g as tile the most Wt high, >ect more us. Thr oW4^' lorth, tht free from ) its navi- te whales hole scene most flal- id that ot Fraiik- Lccuraoy of (letely en- \rctic Sea, of the In. sail to the is prelimi- Septem- ,ear Lake. ived from if the sann 'd his sur- tr, and as- t point to expedition from the IMeantinie lime never 'lung heavy on their hands, and the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon them. The Ca- nadians and Indians wr > engaged in fishing and hunting for the support of the whole party, and during the autumn the nets yielded daily eight hundred fi.sh of the kind called herring-salmon. Four Dog-rih Indians, uiong with the two interpre- ters, Augustus and Ooligbuck, were employed in Jmnting rein-deer, and the sailors were divided into different parties, to whom s(»parate duties were al- lotted ; such as attending on the nets, bringing hon>e the venison killed by the hunters, felling, carrying, and splitting wood, and exercising themselves in running as letter-carriers on snow-shoes between Fort Franklin and two other small ])osts established on the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. A school also was opened, in which, during the long winter ev<'n- ings, the officers instructed the sailors in reading, writing, and arithmetic ; and during the hours of relaxation the hall was given up to the men to di- vert themselves with any game they chose; on which occasions they were always joined by the officers. Sunday was invariably a d to the own duck was seen. »d on tlic various nie swifts remarktHl ds, which vo during' night; at On 2(lth t the furl se arrived Soon after ts tlowers ; KMBAUKATION ON TlIK MACKENZIi:. 2G\ 'Hid un(hT the increasing warmth of tlie sun's rays the whoh.' faee of nature unch-rwent a deliirhtful change. The snow gradually melted, the ice hroUc up from the shores of the !s«ke, the nortlwrii sky hecanie red and luminous at mi(inight, the dwarf- hirch and wil'ows expanded their leaves, and by the 3d June the anemones, the tussilago, the Lap- land rose, iind other early plants, were in full (lower.* Admonished by these pleasing changes Captain Franklin prepared to set out, and on ir)th June the (Hjuipments for the boats were completed. Four- teen men, including Augustus the Esquimaux in- terpreter, accompanied the commander-in-chief and Lieutenant liack in the two larger boats, the Lion and the Keliance ; whilst nine men, and Oolig- buck another interpreter, attended Dr Richard- son and i\Ir Kendall in the Dolphin and the Union. iSpare blankets, and all that could be useful for the voyage, or as presents to the Esquimaux, were divided between the eastern and western parties. On the Sunday before their departure, the ofti- wrs and men assembled at divine worship, and, in addition to the usual service, the special protection of the Almighty was implored for the enterprise upon which they were about to be engaged. All was now ready, and on Tuesday, 28th June, they embarked upon the JMackenzie, with the navigation of which the reader is already familiar. On the 4th July they reached that part where the river divides into various channels, and the two parties had determined to pursue different directions. The expe- dition which was to follow the western branch, * Richardson's Meteorological Tables. 262 MOUTH OF THE MACKENZIE. commanded by Captain Franklin, embarked first at Dr Richardson's desire, with a salute of three hearty cheers from their companions, and as they dropt down the river and passed round a point of land they perceived their friends who were to fol- low the eastern branch employed in the bustle of embarkation. All were in high spirits, and it was impossible not to contrast their present complete state of equipment with the circumstances of their first disastrous journey. On reaching the mouth of the Mackenzie, the western expedition came almost immediately into contact with the Esquimaux. Captain Franklin ob- served an encampment upon a neighbouring island, and instantly proceeded to open a communication. A selection of presents was made, and at the same time every man was directed to have his gun ready for use. Having adopted these precautions, they steered direct for the island with their ensigns flying. The boats touciied ground when about a mile from the beach. Signs were made to the Esquimaux to come off, and the English pulled back a little to await their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes, each carrying only a single person, pushed off, and these were followed rapidly by others; so that in a few minutes the whole space between the boats and the shore was alive with those little vessels which they name kayaks. An attempt was at first made to count them, and the sailors got the length of seventy ; but they increased in such quick succession as to baffle their farther efforts. At first every thing proceeded in a friendly man- ner. Augustus, after delivering a present, informed them, that if the English succeeded in finding a na- ESQUIMAUX. 263 rked first i of three i as they I point of ire to fol- bustle of nd it was complete 3S of their enzicj the ately into anklin ob- ng island, unication. the same ; his gun •ecautions, sir ensigns len about de to the sh pulled 3er water, e person, 3y others; between lose little empt was ailors got 1 in such fforts. dly man- informed ing a na- vigable channel for large ships, an advantageous trade would be opened. This intimation was received with a deafening shout, and the sight of the presents which had been carried away by the three foremost kayaks inflamed the cupidity of their companions ; so that the boats were in a moment surrounded by nearly 300 persons, offering for sale their bows, ar- rows, and spears, with a violence and perseverance which became at last exceedingly troublesome, and Captain Franklin directed the boats to be put to seaward. At this moment a kayak was upset by one of the oars of the Lion, aud its unhappy pos- sessor was stuck by the accident with his head in the mud, and his heels in the air. He was in- stantly extricated, wrapt in a warm great-coat, and placed in the boat, where, although at fiist exces- sively frightened and angry, he soon became recon- ciled to his situation, and looking about, discovered many bales and other articles which had hitherto been carefully concealed. His first impulse was to ask for every thing he saw, his next to be indignant that his requests were not granted; and on join- ing his companions, as they afterwards learned, he harangued on the inexhaustible riches of the Lion, and proposed a plan for a general attack and pillage of both the boats. This scheme was immediately carried into execution ; and although the plunderers at first affected to be partly in sport, matters soon assumed a serious complexion. Two of the most powerful incn^ leaping on board, seized Captain Franklin, forced him to Sit between them, and when he shook them off, a third took his station in front to catch his arm whenever he attempted to raise his gun or lay his hand on the broad dagger 204 VIOLENT CONDUCT OF THE ESQUI3IAUX. which hung by his side. During this assault tlic two boats were violently dragged to the sli )re, and a numerous party, stripping to the waist and bran. dishir- Uieir long sharp knives, ran to the Reliance, and commenced a reguh./ pillage, handing the ar- ticles to the women, who, ranged in a row behind, (juickly conveyed them out of sight. No sooner was the bow cleared of one set of marauders than ajiother party commenced their operations at the st<^rn. The Lion was beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their seats on the canvass cover spread over the cargo, and beating oil' the natives with the butt-end of their muskets, succeeded in preventing any article of importance from being carried away. Irritated, at length, by their frequent failure, the Esquimaux made a si- multaneous charge, and, leaping on board, began to wrest the daggers and shot-belts from the sailors, and to strike wdtli their knives. In the midst of this attack, when the crew in the Lion were nearlv overpowered and their commander disarmed, all nt once the natives took to their heels, and concealed themselves behind the drift-timber and canoes on the beach. This sudden panic was occasioned by Captain Back, whose boat at this time had been got afloat, commanding his crew to level tiieir muskets. — a proceeding which was immediately observed by the Esquimaux, though not iOticed ])y Captaiii Franklin's men, who were wholly occupied in de- fending themseives. Tlie Lioii happily floated soon after ; a>id as both boats [)ulled ofl", Captain Frank- lin desired Augustus to inform some of the Esqui- maux, who manifested a disposition to follow and renew the attack, that he would shoot the first vux. SPEECn OF AUGUSTUS. 265 sault the iiro, and lid bran- lielianw, fj the ar- ' behind. ]o sooner lers thai) IS at tlie numbers, ts on the eatinc: ofl' muskets, nportance nigthj by ade a si- began to le saih)rs, midst of re nearly edj all at concealed anoes on ioned ]>v been gi)t muskets, erved bv Captain d in de- ited soon 1 Frank" Esqui- llow and the first ( man who ventured to approach within musket-. range.* In tlie evening, Augustus anxiously entreated permission to attend a conference of his countrymen on the shore, to which he had been formally invited. The courage and fidelity of this person had much endeared him to the English, and it was not with- out hesitation that Captain Franklin agreed to his request, as he stated his determination to reprove the natives for their disgraceful conduct. He was at length allowed to go, and by the time he reached the shore the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, all of them armed. On landing, he walk- A undauntedly into the middle of the assembly, and addressed them in the following animated speech, which he afterwards repeated to his English friends : — '^ Your conduct," said he, '' has been very had, and unlike all other Esquimaux. Some of you even stole from me, your countryman — but that I do not mind. I only regret that you should have treated in this violent manner the white people, who came solely to do you kindness. iMy tribe were in the same unhappy state in which you now^ are before the white people came to Churchill ,• but at present they are supplied with every thing they need; and you see that I am well clothed, I get every thing I want, and am very comfortable. You cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that these people will ever bring any articles to your f'ountry again, unless you show your contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people love ihe Esquimaux, and w ish to show them the same Frankliu's Second Journey, p. lUl — 10/. 2m PEACE RESTORED. kindness that they bestow upon the Indians. Do not deceive yourselves and suppose that they arc afraid of you ; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely owin^ to their humanity that many of you were not killed to-day, for they have all guns witli which they can destroy you either near or at a distance. I also have a ^un, and can assure you that if a white man had fallen, I would have beeii the first to have revenged his death." During this speech, which was delivered, as they perceived from tlie boats, with much energy and spirited gesticu- lation, the Esquimaux expressed their approbation by frequent shouts, and on its conclusion made a very penitent, though somewhat singular apology: '' They had never seen white men before," they said, '' and really all the things in the boats were so beautiful and desirable that it was impossible not to steal them. As they were very anxious, however, for the friendship and trade of the whiu men, they solemnly promised never to repeat such conduct, and, at the request of Augustus, sent back the large kettle, the tent, and some pair3 of shoes vs-^hich they had carried off."* The interpreter v*as jfterwards invited to a dance, and a friendly lui- derstanding seemed to be established ; but Captain I'ranklin soon discovered that the professions of tiie natives were hollow and treacherous ; and nothing but his jealous precautions saved him and his com- panions from massacre, in which it had been resolved to include the faithful Augustus. Their voyage along the coast in the direction of west-north-west, after a progress of tweln; h\A^ :. was Franklin's Sccontl Journey, pp. 1015, 10" CONTINUANCE OP THE VOVAGE. ^(>7 ians. Do ; they arc id that it t many of e all guns near or at issure you have been during this eived from ed gesticu- pprohation on made a ir apology: fore/' they boats were impossihle ry pnxious, ' the wliiU repeat such ;, sent back ir3 of shoes •preter was riendly uii- >ut Captain sions of the id nothiii!,' id Ills coni- :en resolveil direction of .h!'.•,^vas impeded by the ice stretching from the shore far to seaward. The boats were in consequence hauled up; and as the frozen masses were piled round to the lieight of thirty feet, it became necessary to iiwait the breaking up of this formidable barrier. Having gone to sleep, the oflicers were startled at midnight hy the guard calling to arms : Three Es- quimaux^ belonging to a larger party encamped at some distance, had stolen forward, and been only discovered when close at hand. Alarmed at the ap- pearance of the men, who stood to their arms, the strangers were on the point of discharging their ar- rows, when they were arrested by the loud voice of Augustus, who explained the ol)ject of the expedi- tion, and dilated upon the advantages which they would derive from it. A present confirmed his statement, and an amicable intercourse was opened, -a line, however, being first drawn at a ceriain distance from the tents, across which no Esquimaux was to pass under the penalty of being instantly sliot. Against this they jnade no remonstrance, only remarking, when informed of the treacherous conduct of the natives at the mouth of Mackenzie River, that " these were bad men, altogether dif- ferent from them, and never failed either to steal or quarrel whenever an opportunity was offered." The delight exhibited by these people, including the niost elderly among them, on receiving any little present, was exactly similar to that of children when they get hold of toys. They ran from one thing to another; examined with restless curiosity every part of Augustus' dress, who, to gratify his vanity, liad put on his gayest apparel ; and, ignorant of the I uses of the articles presented to them^ they walk.. 208 FRIENDLY ESQUIiMAUX . vd about witli cod-fish liooks and awls dangling from the nose, and copper thimbles strung to their trousers or rein-deer jackets. The men were ru. bust, and taller than those seen on the east coast hv Captain Parry, tiiough their manner of life appear- ed to be nearly the same. With the broad nose and small eyes, which peculiarly distinguish tlie whole Esquimaux tribes, they had the cheekbones less projecting than those of the eastern coast. From a constant exposure to the glare of the ice and snow, the whole party were afllicted with sore eyes, and two of the old men seemed nearly blind. Thev wore the hair on the upper lip and chin, and every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust through tlu' septum of the nose, whilst holes were pierced on <'ach side of the under li[), in which were placed circular pieces of ivory with a large blue bead in the centre, — ornaments which they valued highly, and declined selling. Their clothes consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with a skirt behind and before, and a small liood ; breeches of the sanit material, and large seal-skin boots. The dress of the females differed from that of the men only in their wearing wide trousers, and in the size of their lioods, which did not fit close to the head, but were made large for the purpose of receiving their chil- dren : these were ornamented with stripes of dif- ferent coloured skins, and round the top was fas- tened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. The women were from four feet and a half to four feet three quarters high, and some of the younger, though too corpulent, were pretty ; their black hair was tastefully turned up from behind to the top of the headj and braided with strings of white and I HEIR I)Ki:SS AND MANNERS. 2(11) daiigliiii,' ]g to their were ro- jt coast l»v • fe appear- )road nose iguish tilt' iliet'kboncs ast. From and SHOW. eyes, and nd. Tlu'v • and every hrough tln' pierced on ,'ere placed le bead in led highly, isisted of a )ehind and the sanit he dress of en onlv in ize of their I, but were their chil- ipes of dif- op was fas- tand erect. lalf to four e younger. black luiir the top of white and blue beads and cords of white deer-skin. Both men and women were much pleased by liaviuir tlu'ir portraits sketched by Captain Back ; and one young iH'ly, who sat for a full-h'ngtli and chose the extra- ordinary attitude of stufling both iiands into lier breeches-pockets, interrupted the labours of the draughtsman by repeatedly jumping into the air, and smiling in a verv ludicrous and irresistible manner. The men were armed with bows and ar- rows, long knives, which they concealed in the shirt- sleeve, and spears tipped with bone." * Franldin's Second Journey, pj). IH', 111). 270 JOINTS SABINE AND KAY. Tlie Esquimaux liacl predicted, that as soon as ii strong wind began to blow from tlie land it would loosen the ice ; and on 12th July a lieavy rain with a pretty high gale set in, and opened up a passage. Tlic boats accordingly were launched; and, passing ;> wide bay named by the commander after his friends Captains Sabine and King, they were suddenly ar. rested by a compact body of ice, and enveloped at the same time in a dense fog. On attempting to pull back for the purpose of landing, they discover, ed that the ice had closed between them and tin shore. In this situation only one alternative was left, which was to pull to seaward and trace th« outer border of the ice. This they at last effected ; though a sudden change of wind brought on a heavy swell, and surrounded them with floating masses of ice, which threatened to crush the boats to pieeis. They succeeded, however, after five hours employed in pulling in and out between these floating icebergs, in reaching the shore and landing a little to the west of Point Sabine. After a detention of two days they proceeded as far as Point Kay ; but being here again impeded by a compact body of ice, which extended to seaward as far as the eye could reach, they were obliged to encamp and wait patiently for the firsi strong breeze from the land. The time of their sojourn in these arctic solitudes was pleasantly occupied in making astronomical ob- servations, collecting specimens of the plants in flower, sketching scenery, and completing charts of the coast. Augustus went in search of his comitry- men, and returned at night with a young Esqui- maux and his wife, who, after a few presents, becani< loquacious, and informed them that the ice would UKUSCHEL ISLAND. 271 soon as a it would lin with ;i jage. Till' passing ;» lis friends Idenly ar- ^eloped nl mpting to ' discover. 1 and the lative was trace tlv ;t eifected ; on a heavy 7 masses of 3 to piect's, 3 employed ig icebergs, to the west d days they here again 1 extended they were r the firsi soon break up. Symptoms this desirable change were accordingly observed next day, and with great labour they reached Herschel Island. At tin; mo- ment they made the shore a herd of rein-deer came bounding down to the beach, pursued by three Esquimaux hunters, and immediately took the water, whilst the natives, startled at sight of the strangers, gazed tor a moment, consulted amongst themselves, changed the heads of their arrows, and prepare d their bows. Their hostile intentions, how- ever, were laid aside when they were addressed by Augustus ; and iji the evening a large party arrived, bringing dried meat, fish, and game, for which they received presents in exchange, which set them sing- ing and dancing round the encampment for the ','reater part of the night. From these people was collected some curious in- formation. They stated that they procured beads, knives, and iron, principally from Esquimaux re- siding far away to the west, and also from Indians who came annually from the interior by a river di- rectly opposite the encampment, to which Captain Franklin gave the name of Mountain Indian River.* Whence the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained these ioods they could not tell, but supposed it was from Kabloonacht or white men, at a great distance to the west. The articles were not of British manufacture, from which Captain Franklin concluded that the Kabloonacht must be the Russian fur-traders. It was with great difficulty that the boats made even a short distance from Herschel Island. The ice repeatedly closed in upon them, leaving only a nar- Franklin's Secoad Journey, pp. 130, 131. 272 DENSE FOGS. row channol, often toosliallow to float the boats, and dense fogs now beeanK.' frequent, rendering their na- vigation peeuliarly liazardoiis. Tliese dreary eurtains hanging over tlie iee gave it tlie appearance of water, and exposed tlien) to tlie danger of being shut in l)y an impenetrable barrier when they expected an open sea. They continued their course, however, till tliev came abreast of Mount Conybeare, when tlicv encamped, and crossing a swampy level ascended to tlie summit, from which tlu^y enjoyed a strikini; view into the interior. Three noble ranges of mouii- tains were seen parallel to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude, whilst the prospect was bounded by a fourth range, mingling their pyramidal summits with the clouds, and covered with snow. From this last encampment their advance was extremely slow. The boats were pushed forward througli small lanes, the utmost vigilance being necessary to prevent their being entirely shut in^ as a fe^v hours often made essential changes, and their frail craft could only l)e saved by being frequently hauled upon the beach. The calm weather also re- tarded them, and they earnestly longed for a stroii;' gale to break up the compacted fields of ice, and permit them to continue their voyage. After a detention of some days their wishes seem- (Hi about to be gratified : At midnight, on the 25tli July, a strong south-westerly breeze sprung up, accompanied by thunder and lightning ; but in the morning an impenetrable fog hung over the sea. On the land side the prospect was equally dreary; an extensive swamp, in which they sunk ankle-deep at every step, prevented any excursions into the in- terior, and the clouds of musquitoes wiiicli for ever CLAHKNCE IlIVKU. )oats, ami r their na- y curtains .» of water, jluit in by xl an open vever^ till ^vlien tlu'V scended to a striking s of niouii- cbain, but lounded by \\ summits )W. From 1 extremely rd through r necessary , as a fe\v and their frecjuently her also re- "or a strong )[' ice, and buzzed around them k<'|)t them in a perpetual irrita- tion. At length, however, the foous, dirty, and ugly. A iihort parley quieted their fears, an interchange oi" 11 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) / O \ ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 [f 1^ lilM •^ 1^ 1 2.2 ^ li£ 12.0 1.8 U III 1.6 P> <^ /a A /A W v Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEQSTER.N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 L^. «■ 274 MOUNT COPLESTON. presents took place, and the boats crossed Camden Bay, having in view the noi'le range of tlie Ronian- zofflMoun tains, whose peaks were covered with snow. Soon after they arrived at the mouth of a river, whicli disehar(jed into the sea so great a vol unit' of water, that even three mih's from land tli«' taste was perfectly fresh ; and having reached lati- tude "JO^ 7', farther progress was prevented by ice closely packed on the outer border of a reef, and they discovered that the great chain of the l^ocky iNIountains either terminated abreast of their pre sent situation, or receded so far to the southward as to fade away in the distance. During their detention Captain Back, to whose pencil we are indebted for many admirable drawings of aretie scenery, mHd(! a skct'h of the most western moun- tain, which they named JMount Copleston.* Various circumstances iu)w warned them that much farther progress along this inhospitable coast was impraeti- cable. The fogs became more frequent and perilous. the water was often so shallow that even at two miles from shore the boats grounded, and on gettinu into deeper soundings, the repeated shocks received from masses of floating ice severely injured their timbers, especially those of the Lion, which was very leaky. 8til! they struggled on from Flaxman Island along a low desolate shore, rendered more dreary by the stormy weather, till on the 10th a gale brought along with it a thick fog, and they hauled up the boats, eiicamping (Hi a low spot, which they named Foggy Island. Here they kindled fires, dried their | <'lothes, which were completely wet with the niois- " Frunkliii's Second Journey, [). 150. See tlie VigneUe to thi; Volume. ILLUSIONS OP TH?: FOG. "^^ d Camden le Ronian- witli snow, of a river, , a volunu' I land tlic •ached lati- iited l)Y ice a reef, and ' the Roeky f their pre. southward luring tlu'ir neil we are gs of arctic stern nioun- n.* Varioib nueh tarthcr as impracti- nd perilous. _'ven at two lid on gettinn )('ks received Injured their ich was very man Island re dreary by gale brou^dil uled up the they named (, dried their X\\ the mois- ture of the atmosphere, and amused themselves in their murky prison hy proceeding in search of rein- ileer. Tiie fog caused frequent and sometimes ludi- (Tous mistakes ; and on one occasion, after the men had spent a long time in stealing upon some ileer, and were congratulating themselves on coming within ^llot, to their amazement the animals took wing and disappeared in the fog, with a scream and cackle which at once declared their genus, and seemed to deride the credulity of their pursuers. "We wit- nessed with regret," says Captain Franklin, " in these short rambles, the havock which this dreary weather made among the llowers. lAIany which had been hlooming upon our arrival were now lying prostrate and withered, and these symptoms of d?- •ay could not fail painfully to remind us tliat the term of our operations was fast approaching. Often Hi this time did every one express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provisions ■auld be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast and steer at once to- wards Icy Cape."* So frequently tli7«) i)iriM(M'L'i ii:s. t'oiild he drammed into deep water tlic spirit of the mist once more (Irc.v his impciietrabic curtain round them, and after restini^ a while on their oars, thev wen; eonipeih'd to pull back to their old quarters. Scarcely had thev kindled a lire and beLaui to dry their clothes, soaked with wadinjr over the flats, when the tb. AlMMfOACn OK w iNTi;r». '2:i jirit oi" the rtain round oars, tht'v d quarters, gun to dry r tlu' flats, •{' launc'licd Lit their tor- ocean in ii ' all others,' sirdous stalt icy sea, (,s- jng breezes ; shore is uii- avy swell, or vreck, or tin lijlhten them ' lariie pieces allow water. we conelud- distance."^ e grasses aiul ^ autumnal much drawn hrough, ami their feet in to cook till ufficient for] turn, Nvlii!^ ^viiess wliid iieavv swl: 1)11 the llatN 6. coiiipelled them 1.) iiaul farther from land, and llir danger which in j)ear ; no winter houses jiave indications that this remote coast was inhabit- ed; and the autumnal parties of geese hourly wii:g- ing their flight to the westward, indicated that win- ter had already surj)rised them in tlieir polar .soli- tudes. It had been Franklin's great object to doubh' Icy Cape, and meet tin* expedifion under Ca[)tain Heechey in Kotzebue's Inlet; but from the distance and the advanced season this was now impracticabh'. On the other hand, his instructions directed him, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other un- foreseen accident, it should remain doubtful whether the expedition should be able to reach Kotzebue's '2'Jil THE EXPEDITION COMPELLED TO IlETUUN. Inlet the same season, to coinmence their return on the 15th or 20th of Aii<,aist." To relinquish th. great ol)je('t of his ainhition, and to disappoint tin eonfidenee reposed in Iiis exertions, was a saerifict wliieh eost liini no ordinary pain ; and had he heeii then aware of tlie fact (with which the reader will l)e immediately acrjuainted) that the harjje o^ tin Blossom was at that moment only 14(5 mih-s dis. tant, we have his own autiiority for stating tliat iin difficulties or dang * Franklin's Second Journey, pp. 1(»1, 102, HI5. RKTl'UN 'ir rcturii on inquish tli< )ai)p<)int till ,s a sacrifnv had he been • reader will l)ared cavity one foot in diameter, which was perhaps intended for a lamp. The tli, Itcads, cutlery, and various othrr articles oltrairKswcrr put on lioar(l,aii(l a variety of antiscorlmtics wi-re added to the usual allowance of provision. Aware that he must tra. vrrse a larye portion of the ulohe hitherto litth' e.\. plored, and that a considerahle period would < laps; hefore his presenc<' was recjuired on the coast ol America, ('ai)tain IJeechey was instructed to surv<'v the [)arts of the Pacific within his reach, of which it was im|)ortant t,) navi<,'ators that a more correct dc. IJFieation should he laid down. These ohservatioii^ wero not, however, to retard his ju'rival at the aj). point<'d rendezvous later than the lOth of July IH'Jii; and he was din-cted to remain at JJehrini,''.; Strait to the end of October, or to as late a p<'riod as the season would admit, without incurring the risk of spendinu the winter there. l)urin;j[ this int<'rval lii was to navis('rvatioii> I at tlic aj). JulylH-Jti; 'ini;'.; Strait I'riod as the r tlic risk (il i interval li« north ward, crlv coiu'Sf ould allow, tions of tlif lis work. Saiuhvicli itka, and on of Petro- rbour are a li, upwards in constant ening when f tin; world, ence of tli<' , and risin*: At inter- v'ds the voIcaiKt emitted | of two baidars under sail were watched by the crev of the Blossom. The people landed at a spot nc'ar| Choris Peninsula, drew up the boats on the beach, turning them bottom upwards, pitched tents, aiiiil in an incredibly short time transferred to them tlid Bi'ochey's Voyage, vol. i. p. H'dJ. -f Ibid. pj). 345, 'M\ OMS. elson's kxpkdition. 21)}) le liorizoii. e retired to spot Mazed There was ir observa- ^ affeeted."^ land, when repeated in- habits and t from thos( ' found them ' fond of to on the whoU ard bargain, impose upon t together so was difficult I serious fraud ghed heartily der it a good tery, were all alutation wa^ inies lickiiii: ni faces, and The rapidity rom place tu >n the motioii> l1 by the crev .t a spot near on the beacli d tents, ant \ to them lilt whole contents of their little vessels. On visiting the encampment an hour after, every thing wax found in as complete order as if they had been do- miciliated on the spot for months ; and the surprise of the sailors was raised to the highest by the va- riety of articles which, in almost endless succession, they produced from their little boats. " PVom the two baidars they landed fourteen persons, eight tent- poles, forty deer-skins, two kayaks, many hundred- weight of fish, numerous skins of oil, earthen jars for cooking, two living foxes, ten large dogs, bundles of lane:>s, harpoons, bows and arrows, a quantity of whalebone, skins full of clothing, some immense nets made of hide for taking small whales and porpoises, eight broad planks^ masts, sails, paddles, &c., he- sides sea-horse hides and teeth, and a varietv of nameless articles always to be found among the Esquimaux."'' In the mean time, ]Mr Elson in the barge proceed- ed along the shore for seventy miles, as far as a pro- inontory, denominated by Beechey Cape Barrow, which was afterwards discovered to be only distant 146 miles from the extreme point of Franklin's dis- coveries. Upon this new line of coast posts werr erected at various distances, with directions for Captain Franklin, should he succeed in pushing so far to the westward. A frequent communication was opened with the inhabitants, who were found to resemble the other Esquimaux, with the unpleasant ifference that their manners were more rude and isterous, and their conduct in some instances decid- ly hostile. Point Barrow, the most northerly ill. p]). 'i-1''? '''"^ • Beechey's Voya<^e, vol. i. p. 405. BB 21)0 ELSON S DISCOVERIES. part of America yet discovered, formed tlie termi. nation to a spit of land jutting out several miles from the more regular coast-line. The width of thf neck did not exceed a mile and a half; on the ex- tremity were several small lakes, and on its eastern side a village. The danger of being shut in by the ice was now great, and I\Ir Elson determined to land, obtain the necessary observations, erect a post, and deposite instructions for Franklin. This plan, however, was frustrated by the violent conduct of the natives, who assembled in formidable numbers, and threatened to attack the crew of the barge, which consisted only of eight men. It was there- fore judged prudent to proceed as speedily as possi- ble to the rendezvous at Chamisso Island, which they reached on the Oth of September, not without considerable difficulty, having been obliged to trade the barge round Cape Smyth, through a sea thick- ly beset with ice, that threatened every moment to close with its impenetrable walls and cut off their return. The result of Captain Beechey's voyagf and of the expedition undertaken under his orders by Mr Elson and Mr Smyth, was the addition ot a new and extensive line of coast to the geograpliv of the polar regions. The actual distance between the extreme points reached by Captain Franklin and Mr Elson being so small, there is every rea- son to believe that the navigation of this remain- ing portion will not be attended with any very for- midable or insurmountable obstacles. In the following year Beechey, in obedience to his instructions, returned to Kotzebue's Sound, and recommenced his examination of the coast in tlu hope of extending his survey beyond Cape Barrow 'iif ■'i: RETURN OP BEKCHEY. 291 the tormi- ,'eral miles /idth of the on tlie ex- its eastern It in by the erminecl to Teet a post, This plan, eonduet ot le numbers, the barge. ; was there- [ily as possi- land, which not without iged to track I a sea thick- iT moment to ut off their ey's voyage, er his orders addition ot e geography [lee between in Franklin s every rea- his remain. 11 y very for- obedience to Sound, and I coast in the ape BarroNv ■d aiid either joining Franklin or collecting some cer- tain intelligence regarding his enterj)rise. In both objects he had the mortification to fail: lie found the posts erected the preceding year and the buried bottles remaining untouched, and the state of the \v<'ather rendered it necessary to put about be- fore reaching Icy Cape. It had been previously arranged, that the signal to be used by Franklin, if he arrived on an unknown coast during the night, should be a beacon kindled on the cliffs; and, on passing Cape Krusenstern after dark, their attention was arrested by a large fire blazing on an eminence. Every eye on board was fixed on the welcome light, and every bosom beat with the delightful expec- tation of soon seeing their friends. The ship was brought to, and hope almost passed im > certainty, as a boat was seen pulling from the shore. On ex- amining her through the telescope by the light of tile Aurora Borealis, some sanguine spirits declared they could discern that she was propelled by oars instead of paddles, and it needed only a slight ad- ditional exertion of the fancy to be assured that the dress of the crew was European. In the midst of these excited and enthusiastic feelings, the harsh and boisterous voices of the natives suddenly broke on their ear, and the pleasing picture which their imagination had been so busy in constructing faded away in a moment, leaving nothing before them but two sorry Esquimaux baidars and their unlovely occupants. From this point Captain Beechey's voyage pre- ><'i;led few features of new or striking interest. In Hehring's Strait they were visited by a splendid exhibition of the Aurora Borealis, and under its 292 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. coruscations of pink, purple, and green rays, which shot up to the zenitli in the shape of a gigantic cone, they ancliored off Chamisso Island. After tile discovery of two capacious iiarbours, which they named Port Clarence and Grantley Harbour, thev took their final departure from the Polar Sea on the (Hh October 1827. On the 2J)th, a flight ol large white pelicans apprized them of their approach to the coast of California ; and after touching at Monterey and San Bias, they arrived at Valparaiso on tlie 29th April 1828. On the 30th June, tlu y passed the meridian of Cape Horn in a gloomy snow-storm, and made Rio on the 21st July. Their voyage from Rio to England was completed in forty- nine daj'^s, and they arrived at Spithead on the 12th October 1828. He found tliat the expedition ot Franklin had preceded him in his return by mor( than a year, liaving reached Liverpool on the 2(Jth September 1827; its transactions occupied two ye?.r> and nearly eight months, whilst Beechey had been absent on his voyage three years and a half. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE NORTHERN REGIONS OF AMERICA. CHAPTER V. Introductory Observatmus. Amelioration in tiio Character of European Intorcourse with uncivil- ized Nations — The Ahsence of Sand}- Deserts, a j^rand Feature in the Physical Attributes of America — Genera! boundaries of the Districts afterwards treated of in Detail — Early Sources of Information regtirding' the Natural History of North America — General View of the Fur-countries— Passatjes across the Rocky Mountains — Plains and Valleys along the Pacific Shore. The preceding historical narrative will have rendered our readers famiUar with the progress of navigation and discovery along the shores of North America ; while the sketches which have been presented of the journeys of Ilearne and JMackenzie, as well as of the more recent expeditions of Franklin and Richardson, will have exhi- bited an accurate antl interesting picture of whatever is most worthy of record in the history and habits of the more central tribes. The unextinguishable boldness and persevering bravery of the human race are strikingly manifested by these achievements in maritime and inland adventure; and while we are too often shocked by the recital of deeds of violence and bloodshed, — by unprovoked and unpardonable aggression on the part of the invaders, and by unsparing revenge, in retaliation, by the darker savage, — we cannot but admire the energy and reckless daring exhibited on either side, though we may too often '20 \- NATURAL HISTORY. regret the want of a gentler and more Innnanizlng spirit In regard, however, to tlie later expeditions, especially those from the Hritish shores, the |)hilanthropist and phi. los()i)her must have heen alike delighted hy the ameliora- tion which has taken place in our mode of intercourse with the " ])ainte(l inen," who are no longer massacred as tile he.'ists that |)erish, hut, even when souglit after origi- nally from motives not entirely disinterested, are yet re garded as heings in whom the great Creator lias implanted the germ of an immortal life. Jiut i)y what a catalogue of crimes was the name of Christian first made known t(i many nations of the Western AN'orld ; and hy what crut! tyranny and the sword of an exterminating war^ were not the insidious j)retences of peace so often followed up hy the civilized nations of Europe ! The cross was indeed hut a vain and hollow symhol in the hands of those ])loo(l- st(1 thitlu-r l)\ moisture tin I, ProvidciKi if fresh watti h. The vaM e j)erpetually h\c clouds u' ;r to the coti- )le-hin(ls aii'l ind the most ate to insure ?s, aperjjetuii! of the soil i- with certaint} loreover wtll- [lerahundaiu'c. even in (irwit nes, the crop!- lency of niuis- ither hlighto! ;ranary, or ac L'uder it unti' , tliey not onl\ ■kule the \)0h. ' also exercisv le neighbour- moisture, am! 'he heats tha ife of the ail- ecting tlelete- carry languor nvert the ver- rness. AVbt-'i. are uncertain . , and no art available, tlv. Idness and ir- rctodarity of outward nature, and is eitiier a victim of tlie wrathfid elements, or a Herce and relentless devastator in his turn. Kveii the very form of man, in connexion witli ilcserts, is deprived of nmch of its natural syn)metry ; it is thin, dry, emaciated, and of a black or swarthy hut. lie seems there farmed, as it were, to drift with the sands, to move his lind)er ..'id elastic frame with all the (juick- iifss that uncertainty may retjuire ; but he jjossessis not the nmscular powers re(juisite to contiinu)us and elective labour. " In such countries population is sparse, and the few who draw a scanty support from the stinte(iii- Uue BritannicL' LprrH) Rnssio. k'ice excepit. rt- lis dimisit; Ri-' Tim benevolentiiv luimo, sue, iKitri- characterized as the most original and valuable work of tlie kind in the English language. In the course of the year 1 7 i9, Ellis* and I)rage,t the latter of whom was clerk to the CaUfornia, published the resi)ective narratives of tlieir voyage, both of which tend to the illustration of natural history. Little information appears to have been received regard- ing these northern regions for about twenty years suc- ceeding the last-mentioned period. Mr William Wailes went to Hudson's Bay in 17()H for the purpose of making observations on the transit of Venus, and was intrusted on his return by Mr Graham, governor of the Company's fort at Severn River, with a collection of quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, for presentation to the Royal Society. These specimens were described by John Reinhold For- sier,;}: and appear to have excited so much attention that the Royal Society requested that directions should be <:;iven by the governor and committee of the Hudson's Bay Company, with a view to the more frequent and ex- tensive collection and transmission jf objects of natural history. Accordingly several hundred specimens of ani- mals and plants, collected at Fort Albany, were trans- mitted by Mr Humphrey Martin. His successor, Mr Hutchins, was still more industrious ; for he not only prepared numerous specimens, but drew up minute de- scriptions of whatever quadrupeds and birds he could procure. It was in fact from his observations (preserved iu a folio volume in the Library of the Hudson's Bay Company II) that Pennant and Latham chiefly derived whatever was valuable in their works§ regarding the feathered tribes of Hudson's Bay. Cook's third voyage tlirew some light, from circumstances not now very effi- L'i'Mit, on the species of the north-west of America and Behring's Straits.H Pennant's ^' Arctic Zoology" was pubHshed in 1785, and contains the most ample descrip- tive catalogue of Arctic American quadrupeds and birds * Voyage to Hudson's Ba\' in the Dobhs and California. t Voyage by Hudson's Straights. ij: Phil. Trans. 177-. II For tliis information we are indebted to l)r Richardson. Ka\Hm Boreali-Americana, vol. ii., Introduction, p. xi. >i Arctic Zoology, and General Synopsis of Birds. •y From the want of engraved re[)resentations, and tiie subsequent destruction or dispersion of the specimens collected, it is now diffi- cult to identify the species with precision. 302 NATURAL HISTORY. wliich had appeared prior to I)r Richardson's recent voliiines. These may he rep;ar(led as ainonjj; the more accu- rate sources of information up to tlie commencement of our own scientific exj)editions hy land and sea, — for althouf^h Umfraville and Ilearne no douht illustrate the hahitsof som(;of the more connnon species, and the well- known voyages of \'ancouver, Portlock, Meares, and r.an<»;sdorff', to the nortli-west, — and the journeys of Lewis and Clarke to the banks of the Columbia, contri- bute to our stock of knowledge, yet no very important results were thereby obtained. The naturalists attached to Kotzebue's ex})edition also acquired some information *-egarding the zoology of the north-west coasts ; and the Appendix to Ca])tain Beechey's \'^oyage, now in prepara- tion, will probably throw considerable light on those for- lorn regions of the world.* The most exact and systematic information which we possess regarding the zoology of the extreme nortiicrn r.hores an(l insular groups of America is contained in the Appendices to the voyages of Captains Ross and Parry, in Mr Joseph Sabine's Appendix to the Narrative of Sir John * We slioiild i^ladly have availed ourselves of ;he inforniatidii nlained in the Zoological Appendix to Captain Beecliey's pub- lislied voyau:e, which we \uider.stand has heen tor some time printed. It has not yet, howevcT, made its appearance. Few specimens (it q\iadrupeds were hroiiy'lit hy that expedition f'nmi North Ameri(a: and we are informed tliat the only new one was a scpiirrel i'wnu Ca- lifornia. Dr IJichardson has supplied a list of all the mammalia known to inhahit the Pacific Coast to the north of California. Il includes TO species, of which the followiujj;- are not in the Fauna Boreali- Americana : viz. C's ovliropus^ lischscholtz, Zoologiscli. Atl.pl. 2; Ftiis ainco/nr ; F. ottva ; six species of seal ; Tr<- chcc/nis rosfvnrus ; l)i(lcl})h)s V'lru'niuuia ; Arrinj/a rulirk'i.- fust (Rich.), descrihed from Mr Collie's notes — (this animal was ohtained in Behring-'s Straits, hut no specimen was hrouj^ht honic: it is allied to Arvicola acoiKwiii.s of Pallas) ; Arctoviy.s cal'iiidtu. P^schsch. pi. <>, a species resemhliuL!;' .trctouif/s prninosus of Pen- nant; and Sciriru.s I'oliui'i (Rich.), from San Bias, California. We are further informed that in this forthcoming' Appendix, Mi V'iji^ors enumerates nearly 100 species of birds; hut as the localitit'» at which they were procured were not oriainally noted witli preri- sion, it will he the more difiicult to define the ranges of those wliiili characterize the northern reg;ions. I'ew northern fishes were ohtained ; hut Mr Bennet liasfurnishH an account of such as were procured at Kumtschatka. INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 303 on's recent more accu- imenceiTient ul sea,— tor Uustrate the nd the well- ^eares, and iourneys of nl)ia, coiitri- ry im])ortaiit ists attached ; information sts ; and the V in prepara- on those ibr- on which wo ime northern itfiined in the and Parry, in ve of Sir John ;ho infonnatinn B(MH-li(>y's pub- me tlTiie printed, cvv spcc'imtMis lit S'orth Aim'rica: (piirrel tVoin Ca- tho maniuuilia :' California. 1' lot in the Fauna .)ltz,Z()ol()gi^c!i. [s of seal ; Ty- Irirotu rithrkr.- his animal was L hrou^"ht hoiiif: \l(ymys cd/ifi'il"- [jnosJis of Ft'"- I, Califoniia. ; Appendix, M' as the localitie; ited with preii- s of those wliicli liethasfurniblu'! FrankHn's//;*.s7 Journey, and in I)r Richardson's " Fauna Boreali-Americana," — a work lately characterized as an " admirable volume, which, while it conveys more sub- stantial information on the sid)ject of Arctic zoolo^^y than any pubhcation that has appeared since the time of Pen- nant, is also highly valuable as correctinji; the occasional er- rors of that excellent work, and addin. -f- Fauna Gropnlandica. * Memoir on the Hirds of (ireenland. Finn. Trans, vol. xii. ''\ Fauna iioreali-Americuna, vol. i., Introduction, pp. xix. xxiv. rjot NATURAL lilSTOIlY parallel with the shores of the PaciHc Ocean, terminates about the 7()th (leji:ree of north latitude, to the westward of the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and withii; sight of tlie Arctic Sea. Though much inferior in lieight to the Andes of the southern continent, of which, however, in a general sense, they may he regarded as the nortlierii continuation, they greatly exceed in elevation the otlur mountain-chains of North America. This, indeed, hf. comes apparent from a consideration of the courses of thf great rivers of the country, all of which, with the exccj). tion of the lake-horn St Lawrence, derive their sources and primary streams from the Rocky ^Mountains, how- ever different may he the direction in which their waters flow. The Columbia, for example, which falls into the Northern Pacific Ocean in the Kith })arallel, derives its primary streams from the western slopes of the same rockv chain, the eastern sides of which give rise to the waters of the Missouri, which, following a south-easterly and southern direction, terminate their long-continued course of looo miles in the Gulf of Mexico. The Saskatchawan, in i)otli its great branches, likewise flows from the eastern slopes ot the Rocky Mountains, and, uniting its streams a short wav below^ Carlton Mouse, it flows through Lake Winipeg, and then, assuming the name of Nelson River, it empties itself. in the vicinity of Cape Tatnam, into Hudson's Bay. In like manner, the Mackenzie, which, in respect of size. may be regarded as the third river in North America (being inferior to the Missouri and St Lawrence alone). derives its two main branches, the Elk and Peace Rivers. from these mountains ; and ere long, flowing northwards and in a north-westerly direction, it opens its numcroiii; mouths into the Polar Sea, after a course of nearly 20(Hi miles. It may be mentioned as a singular fact, that thi- Peace River actually rises on the western side of the Rocky Mountain riclge, within 300 yards of the source of the Tacootchesse, or Phraser's liiver, which flows into tlie Strait of (leorgia, on the western shore.* At a considerable distance below its issue from Great Slave Lake, and where the jMackenzie makes its first near approach to the Rocky IVIountains, it is joined by a large stream which runs a little to the northward of tlie Peace River, and flows along the eastern base of the * Edinburj^h Review, No. 100, p. 1352. 7 INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. 'M): , terminates le westward thin sight of 1 eight to thr liowever, in he nortlicrn )n the otiur , indeed, bc- ourses of thr h the exce]). their sources ntains, how- , their waters falls into the el, derives its he same rocky e waters of the and southern ourse of 4>()(> awan, in both Lstern slopes of ms a short way I Winipeg, ami . empties itseh'. ludson's Bay. •espect of size- ;orth America vrence alone). Peace Rivers, ng northwards its numerous f nearly 'ioim fact, that thi •n side of the of the source lich flows into te from (ireat nakes its tirst , is joined by northward of rn base of the mountains. It was called the Kiver of the Mountains by Sir Alexander Mackenzie; but it lias since, on account of its great magnitude, become more generally recognised by the traders under the name of the South Branch of the Mackenzie. The Mackenzie also receives several Dther large streams in the course of its seaward journey, and among others (ireat Hear Lake liiver, whose head- uaters draw their source from the banks of the Copper- mine I'.ver, and Peel's ]{iver, which issues from thu llocky iMountains in latitude (iT^. " Immediately after the junction of Peel's Uiver," l)r Uichardson observes, • the Mackenzie separates into numerous branches, which tiow to the sea through a great delta comjK»sed of alluvial iiiiul. Here, from the richness of the soil, and from the river bursting its icy chains comj)aratively very early in the season, and irrigating the low delta with the warmer waters brought from countries ten or twelve degrees farther to the southward, trees flourish, and a more lux- uriant vegetation exists than in any place in the same [larallel on the North American continent."* In latitude •i^ , there are many groves of handsome white s})ruce- firs. and in latitude ()9', on the desolate shores of the Polar Sea, ('ense and well-grown willow-thickets cover tlie flat islands ; while currants antl gooseberries grow on the drier hummocks, accompanied by showy epilobiums uul j)erennial lu])ins. The moose-deer, the beaver, and the American hare, follow this extension of a life-sus- taining vegetation, and the existence of these herbivorous .mimals induces a corresponding increase in the localities *)\' wolves, foxes, and other predaceous kinds. The above mentioned are the principal rivers which traverse the fur-countries of America. There are, how- ever, a few others of smaller size, the banks of which yielded their share of the natural history collections, and "lay therefore be briefly noticed. Hayes Kiver takes its origin from the neighbourhood of Lake Winipeg, and, ifter running a course almost parallel to that of Nelson's Kiver, it falls into the same quarter of Hudson's Bay. Vork Factory, so frecjuently mentioned in the narratives >)f our northern expeditions, stands on the low alluvial point that separates the mouths of these two rivers. The Missinnippi, or, as it is sometimes called, the English * Fa\ina Boreali-Americanu, vol. i., Introduction, p. xxii. T 30 () NATURAL IIISTORV. Hiver, falls into Iliidsor's liay at Churchill. Its upper stream is deno/ninatcd the lieaver Itiver, and takes it^ rise from a small ridj2;e of hills, intermediate hetwecn a hend of the Klk Kiver and the northern hranch of the Saskatchawan. Lastly, the Coppermine Uiver derives its ori<;in not far from the east end oi (ireat Slave Lake, and pursuing a northerly course, already made familiar to our readers, it flows throuf^h the Barren (irounds into the Arctic Sea. It is inferior in size to several hranciuh of the ^Mackenzie ; and as there are few alluvial deposites alonsi its hanks, it is deficient in that comparative luxu- riance of vefj^etation which, along the banks of the Mac. kenzie, induces several species of herbivorous (juadrupeiN to seek a higher latitude than they elsewhere attain. Did our limits permit we could dwell with pleasure on this example of the interconnexion or mutual dej)endence of the links of a lengthened chain of facts in natural historv. There are various practicable passages across the Kockv Mountains. Sir Alexander ^Mackenzie crossed them in thi year 1 7 93, at the head of the Peace Uiver, between latitudes 55° and .5()°. The same route was followed in IHOd by a party of the North-west Company, who went to form a set. tlement in New Caledonia. It is still occasionally used hv the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company. In the year I S().5, Lewis and Clarke effected a passage at the head of the Missouri, in latitude 47°, on their way to the moiitli of the Columbia. I)r llicbardson informs us, that for several years subsequent to that period, the North-wesi Company were in the habit of crossing in latitude 52;'°, at the head of the north branch of the Saskatchawan, between which and one of the feeding streams of the Columlia there is a short portage ; but of late years, owing to tiie hostility of the Indians, that route has been deserted, and the Hudson's Bay Company, who now engross the whole of the fur-trade of that country, make use of a more lenctli. ened portage between the northern branch of the Coluiii- bia and the Red Deer River, one of the branches of the Elk or Mackenzie. We are likewise informed that at- tempts have been recently made to effect a passage in the (j'2d parallel of latitude ; but although several ridges of the mountains were crossed, it does not appear that any stream flowing towards the Pacific was attained. The latest journeys across the Rocky Mountains witli which we happen to be acquainted, are those of ^Messrs inou indi Klk iecti " w natu ing cinit jour whic (iaun obta Colui ami ] lie ha taken that u-as liiso jitimi • Th to pel tripo IMTHOIH'CTORY (HISKRVATKLVS. 307 Druinmond and I)ouu;las, two skilful and enterprising botanists, hotli l)el()nji;in:> the continent, from the mouth of the Cohimbia to that of the Nelson River of Hudson's Bay, has been explored by two of the ablest and most zealous collectors that England has ever sent forth ; while a zone of similar width, extending at right angles with the other froiri Canada to the Polar Sea, has been more cursorily ex. amined by the expe(litions."-f- * Tliese enterprising' men have been for a oonsideraI)k' \)em\ respectively engaged in a second jonrney of great extent, tliroiiL'ii various regions of North America'. The ditlferent departments i' natural liistory are expected to gain a rich harvest by their zealou- j and discriminating labours. •f Fauna Boreaii-Americana, vol. i., Introduction, p. xviii. th( ,)f to oi' by \Vi Ch ^vai we kiu its oft tioi cep this vati rati and row feet stui inoi vail. ston lock chai by a the mos The vaili the? tlem the( fami Fi tive rior. mile it re( INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. :j()f) e on the west. ant the (lesccnt sihlc im])rovf. riety of t'orest- ;hat I gk';v.ic(l »ot hut deeply or two in that Limed his back nonton Housi, Richardson at ■. Mr Drum. plains of tlu ecies of ])lants, ihle niiniber o' for six \vi'(.'k> nd, descending in Back, whom lad previously, I hy a country- trlas, the other Iready alhulod. ring plants for in North Cali- liver. lie had 3stward, at tht •tage-road prt- l having spent Lake Winipe?, immond by tlie of at least two entirely acro?^ umbia to that been explored collectors that one of similar le other from cursorily ex- nsideralde \)i'n*^' t extent, thnm.'! t departments 'V t hy their zealuu- on, p. xviii. That widely-extended tract of territory which lies to the eastward of the Uocky .Mountains, and to the north of the Missouri and the Cireat Lakes, is now well known to the Hudson's Bay traders, with exception of the shores of the I*olar Sea, and a corner, hounded to the westward by the Coppermine Biver, (ireat Slave, Athabasca, \Vollaston, and Deer Lakes, to the southward by the Churchill or Missinnippi, and to the northward and east- ward by the sea. When viewed under a zoological aspect, we tiud that this north-eastern corner, more particu'.rly known under the name of the " Barren Grounds," carries its purely Arctic character farther to the south than any of the other meridians. This very bare and desolate por- tion of America is almost entirely destitute of wood, ex- cept along the banks of its larger rivers. The rocks of this district are primitive, and rarely rise to such an ele- vation as to deserve the name of mountain-ridges, being rather an assemblage of low hills Avith rounded sunnnits, and more or less precipitous sides. The soil of the nar- row valleys which separate these hills is either an imper- fect peat-earth, affording nourishment to dwarf birches, stunted willows, larches, and black spruce trees, — or, more generally, it is composed of a rocky debris, consist- ing of dry, coarse, quartzose sand, unadapted to other ve- getation than that of lichens. The centres of the larger valleys are filled with lakes of limpid water, which are stored with fish, even though frequently completely land- locked. More generally, however, one of these lakes (hs- charges its waters into another, through a narrow gorge, by a turbulent and rapid stream ; and, indeed, most of the rivers which irrigate these bar /en grounds may al- most be viewed as a chain of narrow and connected lakes. The rein-deer or caribou, and the musk-ox, are the })re- vailing quadrupeds of these unproductive wastes, where the absence of fur-bearing species has prevented any set- tlement by the traders. The only human inhabitants are the caribou-eaters, — a people composed of a few forlorn families of the Chipewyans. From the district above described, a belt of low primi- tive rocks extends to the northern shores of Lake Su{)e- rior. Dr Richardson calculates its width at about 200 miles ; and he states that, as it becomes more southerly, it recedes from the Rocky Mountains, and differs from ;jio NAT! UAI- HIS roll Y the Harren (irounds in hcin^ well wooded. It is l)oun(!o(l to tlie eastward hy a narrow strip of limestone, beyond wliicli there is a Hat, swampy, and partly alhivial district, tbrmiii}; tlie westerti slioresof Hudson's Hay. 'I'his tract, from tlie western border of the low j)rimitive tract just mentioned to the coast of Hudson's Hay, has l)een named the Kdstrru Di.strirt, and |)resents us with several ani- mals unknown to the hit^her latitudes. The Eastern District is bounded to the westward l)y a flat limestone deposite ; and a remarkable chain of lakes and rivers, such as the Lake of the Woods, Lake Wini. pefj;, Heaver Lake, and the central j)ortio!i of Churchill or Alissinnippi, all of kvhicli lie to the southward of the Methye i'orta<;e, nuirks the line of jui'ction of the two formations. This district, wliich l)r Hichardson has named the Unicstimv Tract, is well wooded, and pro- (luces the fur-bearin*; animals in great abundance. The white or Polar bear, the Arctic fox, the Hudson's Hay lemminp;, and several other species disappear, while their ])Iaces are filled u]) by bisons, bats, and s(|uirrcls. unknown to the other regions. Intermediate 1)etwcen tlie limestone tract and the foot of the Rocky ^Mountains, there occurs a wide expanse of what is called in America prairie land. So slight are the ine(jualities of its surface, that the traveller, while cross, ing it, is obliged to regulate his course either by the com. pass or the observation of the heavenly bodies. The soil is tolerably fertile, though for the greater proportion dn and rather sandy. It supports, however, a thick grassy sward, which yields an abundant pasture to innumerable h.erds of bison, ?nd many species of deer ; and the grizzly bear, the fiercest and most powerful of all the North American land-animals, properly so called, inhabits vari- ous portions of this wide-spread plain. Prairies of a si- milar aspect, and still greater extent, are known to bor- der the Arkansa and jNIissouri rivers. They are said to become gradually narrower to the northward, and in the southern portion of the fur-countries they extend for about fifteen degrees of longitude, from Maneetobaw, or iManeetowoopoo, and Winipegoos Lakes, to the base of the Rocky Mountains. These magnificent plains are par- tially intersected by ridges of low hills, and also by seve- It is bounded stone, beyond lluviiil district. y. Tbis tract. tive tract just is been named ;b several aiii. westward by a fluiin of lakes i, Lake Wini- if Cliurcbiilor bward of tlit on of tbe two icbardson lias (led, and ])ro. mdance. The Hudson's Hay ia})pear, whik and sciuirrdi. it and the foot (le expanse of ) slight are the r, while cross- ir by tbe com- lies. The soil proportion dry a thick grassy o innumerable uul tbe grizzly all tbe North inhabits vari- •airies of a si- nown to bor- ey are said to ward, and in ley extend for aneetobaw, or the base of plains are par- 1 also by seve- INTHODK TOriV onSEIlV ATIONS. SI I ral streams, of which the banks are wooded ; and towards the skirts of tbe plains many detached nuisses of tinely- tbrnied timber, and pieces of still water, are disposed in y) pleasing and pictures(jue a manner, as to convey the idea rather of a cultivated Knglisb j)ark than of an Ame- rican wilderness. There is, however, so great a deficiency o: wood in the central parts of these |)lains, that " tbe iiiinters," says l)r Uichardson, " are under the necessity (f taking fuel with them on their journeys, or in dry weather of making their Hres of the dung of the bison. To the northward of the Saskatchawan, the country is more broken, and intersected by woody bills ; and on the banks of the Peace River the plains are of comparatively small extent, and are detached from each other by woody tracts: they terminate altogether in the angle between the Hiver of the Mountains and (ireat Slave Lake. Tbe abundance of pasture renders these plains the favourite resort of various ruminating animals."* The })receding summary brings us to tbe base of that vast and continuous chain already so often mentioned under the name of the Rocky ^lountains. It is inhabited by many singular animals, some of which do not occur among the lower grounds on either side of the range^ W'e have already stated our opinion regarding the character and physical influence of this extended group, and as we sl;all ere long describe tbe most remarkable of its zoolo- dcal })roductions, we shall in the mean time request the reader to descend with us towards the western or Pacific shores. There we find several interesting tracts of coun- try, with the natural history of which we are, however, more imperfectly acquainted than we should desire. The countries between the Rocky Mountains and tbe Pacific are in general of a more hilly nature than those already described to the eastward ; but the upper branches of the Columbia are skirted by extensive plains, which present the same general character as those of the Mis- souri and Saskatchawan. New Caledonia extends from north to south about 500 miles, and from east to west iibout 3oO or 400. Its central post at Stewart's Lake is placed in north latitude o Icj, and west longitude 125 de- ^'rees. According to Mr Harmon, it contains so many * Fauna Boreali-Americana, vol. i., Intrfxluction, p. 2*J. :il2 NATURAL IIISTOHV. lakes that about one-sixth of its entire surface is undor water. The weather here is inueh milder tl)an on tin eastern side of tiie mountains, — an amelioration which is no (lou})t owinjj; to the comparatively narrow extent of land which intervenes between the mountains and the sea.* However, for a few days during the depth of win. ter it must be " pretty considerably" cold, as the thernio. meter is said to descend for a time to about thirty-two degrees below zero of Fahrenheit. Snow generally falls about the 1.5th of November, and disappears by the iJtIi of Mayjt from which the winter may be fairly inferred to be of shorter duration by about one-third than it is in some places situated under the same latitude on the other side. The only remaining district of North America to which we need here allude, as falling within the scope of the present volume, is that forlorn region in the north-west corner of the continent, which forms the terminating j)or. tion of the vast Russian dominions. Its shores have l)eeii coasted by Cook, Kotzebue, and Beechey ; but of its in- terior nature and productions we are more si)aringly in- formed. l)r Kichardson, indeed, reports, from infoniuu tion given by the few Indians of Mackenzie's River wIki have ever crossed the range of the Rocky ^Mountains in that northern quarter, that on their western side there is a tract of barren ground frequented by rein-deer and musk-oxen ; and it may also be inferred, from the quan- tity of furs procured by the Russian Company, that woody regions, similar to such as exist to the eastward of thi' mountairs, also occur in this north-west corner of Ame- rica. " Kdinhur^li Review, No, lOtJ, p. 355. •j- .lournal of Voyat^cs and Travels in the Interior of Noitli Anieriea, between t ho forty-seventh and fifty-eighth deijree.s ot'lali- tude, by Daniel William Harmon, a partner in the North-VVi'«t Company. An(h)ver, liJ2(). QUADUirPFDS. 313 rirtce is under ■ than on tin ition which is row extent ot tains and thi- (le[)th of win. LS the tliernio. jut thirty.two orth-VVi-i CIIAPTKR VI. The, Quadrupeds of the. Northern Rfyions of Amerien. Iiiaeeuracies of some Ilistoricul Writers — No Monkeys in North America — Bats — Shrewmiee — (iomis Sealops, <»r Shrcwnioh' —Other Moh's of Ameriea — Tlie Star-nose — Various Hears — different Diijitated Qiuwhiipeds— The Canada Otter — The Sea- otter — The Do^'s and Wolves of Ameriea — The Foxes — The Beaver — The >Iusk-rat — Meadow Miee and Lemmings — Th(? Roeky Mountain Neotoma — The American Fieldmouse — The Marmots — Tlie Smiirrel Trihe — The (,'anada Porennine — The American Hare — The Pitlar liar.' — The Prairie llare— The Little Chief Hare — Genus Cervus — The Elk, or Moose-deer — The Rein-deer -The Woodland Carihou— The Uoeky Moun- tain Slieei) — The Rocky Mountain (ioat — The Bison, or Ameri- «;an Buftalo — The Muslc-ox. Having in the preceding chapter exhibited a general sketch of some of the prevaihng features in the physical geography of the northern countries of America, we shall now proceed to a more detailed and systematic account of tlieir natural history. Rut, in the first place, we may notice a slight inaccuracy which prevails in regard to the comparative size of the ferine inhabitants of the Old and New World. " Nature," says Dr Robertson,* " was not only less prolific in the New World, but she appears likewise to have been less vigorous in her productions. The animals originally belonging to this quarter of the globe appear to be of an inferior race, neither so robust nor so fierce as those of the other continent. America gives birth to no creature of such biUk as to be compared with the elephant or rhinoceros, or that equals the lion and tiger in strength and ferocity. The tapir of Rrazil, the largest quadruped of the ravenous tribe in the New U'orld, is not larger than a ^alf of six months old. The puma and jaguar, the fiercest beasts of prey, which Eu- * In his History of America. ""^msmmmmn ■^i 311- NATURAL HlJ^TOIlV. ropeans have inaccurately denominated lions and tigers, possess neither the undaunted courage of tlie former, nor tlie ravenous cruelty of the latter.* They are inactive and timid, hardly formidahle to man, and often turn their backs upon the least apiiearance o " resistance.t The same qualities in the climate of America which stinted tlie growth and enfeebled the spirit of its native animals, have proved pernicious to such, as liave migrated into it voluntarily from the other ccntinent, or have been trans- ported thither by the Europeans.;}: I'he bears, the wolves, tlie deer of America, are not e(jual in size to those of the Old World." 1 1 Now this idea, t'aat the quadrupeds of the New World are smaller than those of the Old, is correct, only in relation to the southern regions of each. The elephant and rhinoceros of India are of much more vast dimensions than the tapir and lama of South America ; but " the bears, wolves, and deer" of North America are much larger than those of Europe, and the reptiles of tliat same quarter of the globe are infinitely larger than any which occur in corresponding latitudes o^' the ancient continent. Even in regard to the fehne tribes which the great Scotch historian considered as so inferior in the New World, perhaps there is less dis})arity tlian is usually supposed. Buftbn's observations on the " cowardly tigers " of the new continent are known to be applicable to the f '.nail species called the ocelot ; and it i? ascertained that the real jaguar of the Orinoco sometimes leaps into the water and seizes the Indians in their canoes, — a practice not entirely consistent with the idea of its fearing the face of man. Let us peruse the following passages from the writings of Humboldt: — "The night was gloomy; the Devil's Wall and its denticulated rocks appearal from time to time at a distance, illumined by the burn- ing of the savannahs, or wrapped in ruddy smoke. At the spot where the bushes were the thickest, our horses * Buft'on, Hist. Nat. torn, ix. p. HJ. MaiLnavii Hist. Nat. Bra- zil, p. 22U. ■f Ibid. ix. 13, 203. Acosta, Hi.st. lib. iv. c. 34. Pi.sonis Hist. p. 0. Herroia, doc. 4, lib. iv. c. 1, lib. x. c. 13. + Cburcbill, y. p. ♦)!ll. Ovalle, Kolat. of Cbiii. Chuicbill, iii. p. 10. Soinmario de Oviodo, c. 14 — 22. Vovag'e du Dcs Mar. chais, ili. 25)». II Buftbn, Hist. Nat. ix. 103. Kalm's Travels, i. 102. Biet. Voy. ''e France Equinox, j). 339. QUADRUPEDS. 31.5 and tigers, former, nor are inactive n turn their nce.t The liich stinted ive animals, rated into it been trans- , the wolves, those of the upeds of the d, is correct, each. The ■h more vast th America; America are le reptiles of f larger than )*:' the ancient es which the ferior in the lan is usually ;artlly tigers'' icable to the ertained that eaps into the —a practice fearing the lassages from ^vas gloomy; •ks appeareil 3y the l>urn- smoke. At our horses list. Nat. Bra- Pisonis Hist. Churdiill, iii. du Dos Mar. i. 102. Biet. were frightened by the yell of an animal that seemed to follow us closely. It was a large jaguar that had roamed for three years among these mountains. He had con- stantly escaped the })ursuit of the boldest hunters, and had carried off' horses and mules from the midst of en- closures ; but, having no want of food, had not i/ct attacked men. The negro who conducted us uttered wild cries. He thought he should frighten the jaguar ; but these means were of course without effect. The jaguar, like the wolf of Europe, follows travellers even when he will not attack them : the wolf in the open tieids and in un- sheltered places, the jaguar skirting the road, and aj)- pearing only at intervals between the bushes."* The same illustrious observer also remarks, — " Near the .loval nature assumes an awful and savage aspect. We there saw the largest jaguar we had ever met with. The na- tives themselves were astonished at its prodigious length, which surpassed that of all the tigers of India I had seen in the collections of Europe."t The first fact to which we shall here allude is one of a negative character, viz. the entire absence of the monkey tribe, commonly called the Qnadrnnianous order, from the countries of our present disquisition. The climate is too rigorous and variable for that " pigmy people." Of the next order, the Cheiroptera or bats, there are several North American species, of which we shall here name only the Vespertilio subuUitus of Say, a small- hodied species, common near the eastern base of the Uocky Mountains, on the upper branches of the Peace River ami Saskatchawan. The slender and delicutely-formed tribe of shrewmiee are well known in Ameri:a. Forster's shrew {Sore.v For^ Hcri, Rich.) is widely spread over the whole of the fur- ''ountries as far as the sixty-seventh degree of north lati- tude ; and wherever the snow is sufficiently firm to retain the impression, its little footmarks are seen throughout the dreary winter. Dr Richardson often traced its patlis to the top of a stalk of grass, by which it appeared to descend from the surface of the deep snow ; but he always sought in vain for its habitation beneath. This is the smallest quadruped with which the Indians are acquaint- * Personal Narrative, vol. iv. p. 17^>- t Ibid. J). 427. Md NATURAL HISTORY. ed, and they carefully preserve its skin in their conjuring. bags. It has been a source of wonder and athniration how the vital power should preserve its delicate limbs from freezing in a country where the winter temperature sinks to fifty degrees below zero. Of this species the tail is of a square form, and of the same length with the head and body, which together measure rather more than a couple of inches. The ears are short and furry, the back is of a clove-brown colour, and the under parts are pale yellowish-brown. A singular animal (classed under the genus Scalops of Cuvier) is known to the American naturaUsts by the name of shrewmole. It has a thick cylindrical body, resem- bling that of the common mole, without any distinct neck. Its limbs a^e very short, and appear /emarkably so in consequence of their being enveloped in the skin of the body as far as the wrists and ankle-joints. The snout is linear and moveable, ami projects above the t) ird of an inch beyond the incisive teeth. The eyes are concealed by the fur, and are so exceedingly small, according to I)r Godman, that the aperture of the skin is just large enough to admit the entrance of an ordinary-sized human hair. The paws closely resemble those of the European mole, and the fur has the same rich velvety appearance. It is of a brow^nish-black colour, with a slight chestnut tinge upon the forehead, and somewhat paler on the throat. Considerable confusion exists in the history of the Ame- ricau moles, and it is still a matter of doubt wdiether nr.'i true mole (of the genus Talpa) inhabits the New Wcri ; " Before the sun rose," says Sir Alexander Mackenz c " our guides summoned us to proceed, when we de- scended into a beautiful valley, watered by a small river. At eight we came to the termination of it, when we saw a great number of moles."* Now, in this country, though mo\e-hills are abundant, it seldom happens that we see of the creatures themselves more than one at a time, and even that but rarely. From this it may perhaps be in- ferred that the species are distinct. However, the one which we have described above is frequent on the banks of the Columbia and the neighbouring coasts of the Pa- * Voyaj^es from Montreal, on the river St Lawrence, tliroughthe Continent of North America, to the Frozen and Pacific Occan>i. p. 314. QIADRIPEDS. :i\ Y conjuring- . admiration elicate limbs temperature lecies the tail vith the head more than a rry, the hack arts are pale js Scalops of 3 by the name body, resem- any distinct Lr remarkably in ihe skin of s. The snout he t) ird of an are concealed cording to l)r t large enough I human hair, iropean mole, arance. It is ;hestnut tinge the throat. ly of the Ame- whether p' NewWc |er iVIacken/ . when we de- a small river, hen we saw a |untry, though that we see of |t a time, and lerhaps be in- ever, the one on the banks Ists of the Pa- [nce, througlitlie Pacific Oceans. I* ii cific. According to Lewis and Clarke, " it differs in no respect from the species so common in the United States."* The northern range of the shrewmole is still unknown. It is supposed not to advance beyond the fiftieth degree of latitude, because its favourite food consists of earth- worms, which are unknown in the countries of Hudson's Bay, although it may prol)ably reach a somewhat higher latitude along the milder Pacific shores. Its general ha- bits resemi)Ie those of our own kind. It is a subterranean dweller, excavates galleries, throws up mounds, and feeds on insects. Tliis species is said to have the singular cus- tom of coming to the surface c.rarf/i/ at noon. A domes- ticated individual kept by ]\Ir Titian Peale was lively, playful, and familiar ; — it would follow the hand of its feeder by the scent, and then, after burrowing for a short distance in the loose earth, and making a small circuit, would retur.i again for a supply of food. It fed on fresh meat, either cooked or raw, and was observed to drink freely.t Another singular subterranean species is the long-tailed mole of Pennant {Condi/lnrn ionqimudafa, Harlan). The length of this animal, exclusive of the tail, is nearly five inches. It is covered with a brownish-black velvety coat of fur, and the extremity of its snout is furnished with a cartilaginous fringe of eighteen rays, with two short bifid ones beneath the nostrils. It is from these appendages that it has obtained the name of star-nn.sp. Specimens were transmitted to the Zoological Society from Moose Factory, Hudson's Bay. It is called naspas.s-kasic by the Salteur Indians. \Ve come now to the group of bears (genus rv.v?/*), which includes the largest and most powerful of the Ame- rican beasts of prey. It is natural to suppose that ani- mals of almost gigantic size, of great strength, and fero- cious habits, would be too formidable and dangerous to the human race to remain unknown in any of their distin- tiuishing characteristics. Yet the specific differences of the black and Ijrown bears of Europe and America are still insufficiently illustrated. Both continents produce a hlack bear and a brown one, — the white or Polar bear is p. !54 * Travels to the Source of tlie Missouri River, vol. iii. p. 42. + American Natural History, by John D. Godnian, M.D., vol. 318 NATl UAL lIISTOnV. common to the northern latitudes of each, while America alone is inhahited hy the j^rizzly hear, U):sns fcrov. The hlack hear of the New World {Unas Anivrim. mis) has a more arched forehead than the analogous spc- cies of Europe. Its nose is continued on the same line with the forehead^ and is also somewhat arched, which produces one of its myst striking physiognomical charac- ters. Its ears are high, oval, rounded at the tips, and are placed wide apart from each other. Its fur is long, straight, hlack, and shining, with the exception of a large pale yellowish-hrown s[)ot on each side of the muzzle. The hare extremity of the nose is more ohliquely truncat- ed than that of the hrown hear, and the palms and soles of the feet are comparatively shorter than in that species. This is the least of the American hearS;, and seldom ex- ceeds five feet in length. Its disposition is also milder, and its diet consists of a greater proportion of vegetable substances. It feeds on various kinds of roots and wild berries, as well as on insects, eggs, birds, quadrupeds, and fish. In short, it may he said to be omnivorous, like the rest of its congeners, with this difference, that when it happens to be amjily supplied with a favourite vegetable food, it will pass the carcass of a deer or other quadruped untouched. It may be characterized as rather a timid animal, and seldom ventures to face a human foe, unless when hemmed into a corner, or emboldened hy the strength of parental affection. Its speed is generally said not to be very great ; but I)r Richardson states that he has seen a black bear make off with a rapidity that would have baffled the fleetest runner, and ascend a nearly perpendi- cular cliff with a facility " that a cat might envy." This species, when resident in the fur-countries, sleeps throughout the winter, generally under a fallen tree, after having scraped away a portion of the soil. The first heavy fall of snow covers it up, and secures it from an undue intensity of cold. In regard to distribution, it is widely spread over all the wooded districts of America. from Carolina to the Arctic Sea, and across the whole of the continent from east to west. It is, however, less abundant near the seacoasts than in the interior coun- tries. " The skin of a black bear, with the fur in })riine order, and the claws appended, was at one period worth from twenty to forty guineas, and even more; but at present the demand for them is so small, from their be- QUADRUPEDS. 31 f) lile America ;fero.r. Hs Anicricn. lalogous s})c- lie same lino rched, which iiical charac- [he tips, and fur is long, ion of a larjic the muzzle, uely truncat- ms and soles that species. ' seldom ex- also milder, of vegetable lots and wild idrupeds, and rous, like the that when it rite vegetable ler quadruped ,ther a timid n foe, unless y the strength y said not to it he has seen Avould have rly perpendi- envy." intries, sleep!- en tree, after 1. The tirst es it from an ihution, it is of America, the whole of lowever, less nterior eoun- fur in })riinL' period worth lore; but at om their be- ing little used either for muffs or hammereloths, that the best, I believe, sell for less than forty shillings."* As both the blaek and griz/ly bears vary greatly in the colour of their coats, according to age and season, the supi)osed brown bear of America is alleged by some to have arisen from one or other of these variations. From iiujuiries made by l)r Uiehardson throughout an extent of ten degrees of latitude, from Lake Superior to (ireat Slave Lake, he could not ascertain that the natives of these districts were accpiainted with more than two s{)e- cies of land bear, viz. the one above described, and tiie grizzly species. He found, however, that the banen lands which lie to the north and east of (ireat Slave Lake, and stretch thence to the Polar Sea, are frequent- ed by a bear which differs from those species, and pre- sents a nearer affinity to the brown bear of the Scan- dinavian peninsula. Its general colour is dusky (some- times yellowish) brown, and the shoulders and Hanks are frecjuently covered during the summer season with long ()ale-tipped hairs. This is no doubt the grizzly bear of Hearnc, though quite distinct from the kind now more familiarly known under that appellation. The Indians greatly dread the Barren (iround bear, and avoid burning bones, lest the smell should attract so unwelcome a visiter. It is narrated, that as Keskarrah, an old Indian, was one day seated at the door of his tent near Fort Enterprise, a large bear suddenly made its appearance on the op})osite bank of a small stream, and remained stationary for some time, curiously eyeing the old gentleman, and apparently deliberating whether to eat him up at that moment or wait till supper-time. Keskarrah, thinking himself in great jeopardy, and having no one to assist him but a wife as old as himself, immediately gave utterance to the following oration: — "Oh, bear! I never did you any harm ; I have always had the highest respect for you and your relations, and never killed any of them except through necessity : go away, good bear, and let me alone, and I promise not to molest you." Bruin instantly took his departure ; and the orator, never doubting that he owed his safety to his eloquence, on his arrival at the fort frequently favoured the company with his speech at full length. In the stomach of one of these animals which * Fauna Boreali-Araericana, vol. i. p. 20. G 320 NATIRAL HISTOKV Dr Richardson dissected, he found tlie remains of a i^eal, a mannot, a large quantity of the long sweet roots ol some A.struguli and Hedymra, with some wild herries and a little grass. The third American species of this genus which we re- quire to notice is the true grizzly hear, or Vrsus feroa. He does not ])resent a very amiable aspect. This is the most formidable animal of the North Ame- rican continent. "When full grown it equals the size of the larger Polar bears, and is not only more active, but ol a fiercer and more vindictive disposition. Its strength is so great that it will drag the carcass of a buffalo weigh- ing a thousand pounds. The following story of its prowess is well authenticated: — A party of voyagers had been oc- cupied all day in tracking a canoe up the Saskatchawan, and had seated themselves around a iire during the even- ing twilight. They were engaged in the agreeable task of preparing their supper, when a huge grizzly hear sprung over the canoe which they had tilted behind them, and seizing one of the par+y by the shoulder, car- ried him off". The remainder lied in terror, with the sole exception of a metif, named Bourasso, who, grasping his gun, followed the bear as it was deliberately retreating with the man in its mouth. He called out to his unfor- tunate comrade that he was afraid of hitting him if he fired at the bear ; but the latter entreated him to fire instantly, because the animal wa.s' fsqueeziny him to death. On tliis he took a steady aim, and lodged his ball in the body ot the brute, which immediately dropped its original prey, that it might revenge itself upon Bourasso. He, how- ever, escaped, though with difficulty, and the monster soon after retreated into a thicket, where it was supposed to have died. But fear prevailed over every other feelinL\ and no one thought it necessary too curiously to inquire. The rescued man was found to have had his arm fractur- ed, and to have been otherwise severely bitten ; however. he afterwards recovered. We are informed by Dr Rich- ardson, that a man is now living in the vicinity of Ed- monton House w'ho was attacked by a grizzly bear, which suddenly sprung out of a thicket and scalped him by n single scratch of its tremendous claws, laying bare tlit skull, and pulUng down the skin of the forehead quite over the eyes. Assistance being at hand, the bear was driven off without effecting farther injury ; but the incli- tins of a t^eal. vveet roots of wild l)errit'> wliich we rt- Ursus fi'rojL. ( North Arae- ils tlie size of active, but ol Its strength mffalo weigh. of its prowess had been oc- >askatchavvaii, •ing the even- igreeable task grizzly bear tilted behind shoulder, car- , with the sole , grasping his tely retreatinj: ; to his unfor- him if he fired fire instantly, mill. On this n the body of original prey, 0. He, how- the monster was supposed ' other feelinL^ sly to inquire. 3 arm fractur- :en ; however. I by Dr Rich- icinity of Ed- ly bear, which ped him by a ying bare the brehead quite the bear was but the incli. ■t. M ,;j u -■"TSSSBi was and sion the cide ther feiiu tally sonii riou; tliet wish two oftl ever, won' tiavii proc( too. prud Tl QUADRrPKOS. 3*2.'i vidual attacked was left in a most unfortunate and pain- ful predicament, for the scalj) not hv\\\^ properly replaced ill time, he lost his si<;ht (although his eyes remain^'d un- injured), owing to the fixing and hardening of that skinny veil. INIr Drummond, whose botanical trip to the Kocky Mountains we have already narrated, freecially duriiiii; the autumn season, to which it is liable ' drifted dur- ing sunnner from the northward on the i..c. It is a truly ice-haunting and maritime sjjecies, and occurs along a vast extent of sliore over the Arctic regions, never enteriiif: into wooded countries except by accident during the pro- valence of great mists, nor showing itself at more than a hundred miles' distance from the sea. Indeed it rarely travels inland more than a few miles, because it is a stroiii: and persevering swinnner, and probably feels conscious that when removed from its accustomed element it loses the advantage of its own peculiar and most })owert'ul locomotive energies. The Polar bear is -well known in (ireenland, Spitzbergen, and Xova Zembla, and was met with by Captain Parry among the North (Georgian Islands. It seems, liowever, to decrease in numbers to the west- ward of Melville Island. In proof of this it may be men- tioned that Dr Richardson met with none between the mouths of the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers ; anil • Travels on the JMis.-iOuri and Arkansaw, edited by Mr Rpi's- London, 1811. •f Tlio sporimen in the Edinburgli Mnseum (of which I lui\o imhlishcd a coloiired representation on the twenty-first phUe ot tin' first volume of my "Illustrations of Zoolog-y") was killed on tlie 1)lains at Carlton Mouse in its second year. Its claws are iihuk. [n a mature condition these weapons are white, and necklaces made of them are much prized by tlie Indian warriors as proofs of prowess tend*; soiitli. ) iiiliiibit the t least as I'ar 1 in tlu' last- siicli woody s and grassy much loniicr ur account oi the white or iralists. 'I'his to a hiii;hcr 1, and dwells )out tlie fifty, [ictorv, on tin- L'cially during; ■ drifted dur- It is a truly rs along a vast ever enterinp^ I ring the prc- at ni'ire than ideed it rurdy LMt is a stronu' eels conscious anient it loses nost powerful veil known in , and was met Drgian Islands. i to the west- ; may be men- e between the ; Rivers; ami •d by ISIr Uoes. )t' which I luv\e iiist plate (if til"' IS killed on the claws arc lilack. i necklaces made jroofs of prowess giADitt i>i:i>s. :V2'i the Ks(|uiinau\ informed Ciptain Franklin tliat wlute Ix'ars very rari'ly visited the coast to the westward of the Macken/ie. Along the Asiatic shores, on tile other hand, they are not recorded as occurring to the eastward of tlie Tgchukot/koi Noss." Neither were tliey seen by Cap- tain Ileechey during liis recent voyage to the ley Cape, although their skins a])pear to have been jjrocured amongst other peltry from the natives on the coast of Ilotham's Iidet. Kot/ebue's Sound. t It thus appears that this great maritime species occurs very generally along all the fro/en shores within the Arctic Circle, with the exception of about thirty-five degrees of longitude on either side of Point Heechey, in which it is comparatively rare; and that in Hudson's Hay, and along the nortiiern coast of Labrador, and the nearer portions of Kast and West (ireeidand, it occurs not unfre()ueiuly six or eight degrees to the south of the Arctic Circle.:;: We deem it unnecessary to desci he the external cha- racters or appearance of this familiarly-known animal. || Passing over tlie racoon {Prorj/on lotur), the American badger {Mr/cs Lahr^idoriii), the wolverene i^iinht lii.scna), the common weasel {Mn.sfr/ti vn/3. 330 NATURAL HISTORY. Mr Elder, who witnessed the attack, could reach the scene of action, the dog had disap})eared, with the excep- tion of the lower part of a leg. They frequently came alongside the frost-hound ship, and one night hroke into a snow-hut, and carried away a hrace of Esquimaux dogs, which ajipeared to have made a considerable resistance, as the ceiling was sprinkled with blood and hair. The alarm was not given till the mortal strife had terminated, and when they were fired at, one of the wolves was ob- served to take up a dead dog in his mouth, and to set off with it at an easy canter, although its weight was sup- posed to be equal to his own.* The dusky wolf described in Godman's Natural His- tory is regarded as a distinct species by INIr Say ;t and the black variety is also considered by some authors as entitled to specific separation. The not unfrequent oc- currence of black individuals in the litter of the gray and brown wolves, seems, however, rather to point out the probability of this tlifference of colour being merely an accidental variation. But the prairie wolf {Canis latrans) is undoubtedly a distinct and well-defined species. It hunts in packs, and is an animal of great swiftness. It occurs on both sides of the Rocky Mountains ; but is less numerous on the banks of the Columbia than in the plains of the iVIissouri and Saskatchawan. When the hunters on the banks of the latter river discharge their muskets at any kind of game, great numbers of the prairie wolf are sometimes seen to start from holes in the earth, and keep a look-out with a view to secure the offals of the slaughtered animal. With the exception of the prong-hornetl antelope then is probably no swifter quadruped in America than the prairie wolf. These fierce and unreclaimed animals conduct us na- turally to the domesticated tribes of the canine race, of which there are several remarkable varieties in the north- ern regions of America. We can here afford space only for a few hues regarding the Hare Indian, or Mackenzie Biver dog {Canis familiaris, xar. layopus). The front figure of the annexed cut represents his external aspect. This domestic variety, as far as Dr Richardson could * Lyon's Private Journal. -f- Long's Expedition to the Rocky Mountains. iiltl reach the ith the excep- iquently came ^ht broke into juimaux clogs, ble resistance, ul hair. The 1(1 terminated, olves was ob- ancl to set off' ght was sup- I Natural His- ,Ir Say ;t and me authors as mfrequent oc- f the gray and point out the ing merely an undoubtedly a 5 in packs, and s on both sides imerous on the »f the iVIissouri n the banks of t any kind of are sometimes *. •^ :.- '#' *v. -* , i M 'i^-' I . I ■'■'.•*, i \M QUAimrPEOs. 3^:i learn, appeared to he cultivated only by the Hare Indians, unci other tribes f're contained )\ aimost every book of natural history; and we shall therefore conliue ourselves in this place to such particulars .; illustr? "c' its general habits. As the history of this animal given by Hearne has been characterized hy competent authority as the most accurate which has yet been presented to the public, we shall here abridge it for the benefit of our readers. As the beaver not only furnishes an excellent food, bu; is highly valuable for the sake of its skin, it naturally at- tracted the particular attention of the Jast-named traveller. The situation of beaver-houses was found to be various. When the animals are numerous, they inhabH lakes, ponds, and rivers, as well as those nar^'ow i reeks which connect tlu lakes together. Generally, however, they prefer flowin;: water-, probably on account of the advantages presented by the current in transportir.g the niaterials of their dwell- ings. They also prefer deepish water, no doubt because it affords a better protection from the frost. It is when they build in small creeks or rivers, the waters of which are liable to dry or be drained of^, that they manifest that 5 OS is (listiii- lore brilliant lose thicker, carer to cacli re woolly be is alto<;etlu'r loes not ])()s. seems to ex- aiul is tlun )y a inountLMl (iccHs-sntti's), re considered )robably with t" local or ac- me as Ameii- fM.v), and tile |. The latter 3rica ; but we eaver of these ), one of tile description i^ history ; and place to such As the history aracteri'/ed by which has yet abridge it for lent food, but naturally at- me^ ^ refer flowing iges presented of tbeir dwell- loubt because t. It is when ,ters of wbicii manifest that QUADRUPKHS. 33.i beautiful instinct with which Providence has gifted them, — the formation of dams. These differ in shape according to their j)articular localities. When the water has little mo- tion the dam is almost straight ; when the curreiU is con- siderable it is curved, with its convexity towards the stream. The materials made use of are drif -wood, green willows, birch, and poplars ; also nnul and stones intermixed in such a maimer as must evidently contribute to the strength of the dam ; but there is no particular method observed, ex- cept that the work is carried on with a regular sweep, and all the parts are made of ecpial strength. " In places which have been long frcMjuented by beavers undisturbed, their (lams, by frecjueiit repairing, become a solid bank, capable of resisting a great force both of ice and water ; and as the willow, poj)lar, and birch, generally take root and shoot up, they by degrees form a kind of regular planted hedge, which I have seen in some places so tall, that birds have huilt their nests among the branches."* Tile beaver-houses are built o^' the same materials as the dams ; and seldom contain more than four old, and six or eight young ones. There is little order or regula- rity in their structure. It frcfjuently hap|)ens that some of the larger houses are found to have one or more parti- tions, but these are only i)arts of the main building left by the sagacity of the beavers to support the roof; and the apartments, as some are pleased to consider them, have usually no communication with eacli other, except t)y water. Those travellers wbo 'assert that the beavers have two doors to their dwellings, one on the land side, and the other next the water, manifest, according to Ilearne, even a greater ignorance of the habits of these animals, than those who assign to them an elegant suite of apartments, — for such a construction would reiuler their houses of little use, either as a protection from their enemies, or as a covering from the winter's cold. It is not true that beavers drive stakes into the ground when building their houses; they lay the pieces cross- wise and horizontal; neither is it true that the wood- work is first finished and then plastered ; for both houses and dams consist from the foundation of a mingled mass of mud and wood, mixed with stones when these can be procured. They carry the mud and stones between their * Hearne's Journey to the Northern Ocean. 336 NAXrRAIi HISTORY. fore paws, antl the wood in their mouths. They always work in the night and with gre.t ex])(;diti()n. Tliey eover their houses late every autum ' with fresh mud, which freezes when tiie frosts set in, and hecomes ahnost as hard and sohd as stone ; and thus neither wolves nor wolverenes can (hsturl) their re})ose. When walking over their work, and especially when ahout to ijlunge into the water, they sometimes give a peculiar flap witli their tiils, which has no douht occasioned the erroneous heHef tha^ they use these organs exactly as a mason uses his t;owel. Now a tame })eaverwill flap hy the fireside whe>'e there is notiiing hut dust and ashes ; and it therefore only uses the trowel in eoniinon with the water-wagtail,- -in other words, the quadruped as well as the hird is characterized hy a pecu- liar motion of its caudal extremity. The food of this animal consists chiefly of the root of the plant called Niiphdr luti-mu, which hears a reseni. hiance to a cabhage-stalk, av.d grows at the hottom of lakes and rivers. It also gnaws the hark of hirch, pop. lar, and willow trees. In sunnner, however, a more va- ried herhage, witli the addition of berries, is consumed. When the ice breaks up in the s])ring, the heavers always leave their house-, and rove about until a little before the fall of the leaf, when they return again to their old habita- tions, and lay in their winter stock of wood. Ilearne gives the following account of some tame beavers which be- longed to him: — " In cold weather they were kept in my own sitting-room, where they were the constant com. panions of the Indian womoi and children, and were so fond of their company, that when the Indians were ah- sent for nny considerable time, the beavers discovered grca* signs of uneasiness, and on their return showed e(iii:il marks of pleasure, by fondling on them, cr-'wling into their laj)s, lying on their backs, sitting erect like a scpiirrel, and behaving Hke children who see their parents but sel- dom. In general, during the winter, they lived on t!u same food as the women did, and were remarkably fond of rice and plum pudding ; they would eat partridges and fresh venison very freely, hut I never tried them with fish, though I have heard they will a^^ times prey on them In fact there are few graminivorous animals that may not be brought to be cam. vorous. * According to Kaliu Ibid. QUADKIPEDS. 33' L'hcy always Tlicy cover mud, which most as hard r wolverenes | r their work, | water, they ' s, which has '• liai; they use wel. Now a ere is nothing ses the trowel jr words, tlie jd hy a pecu- of the root of lears a reseiii- ;he hottom of )t' hirch, pop. er, a more va- is consumed, heavers always ittle hetore the leir old hahita- /ood. Hcarnt vers which, he- ere kept in my constant com- ^, and were so dians were ab- jscovered grca' showed e(iu'.a er"wlvnjj: into . like a s(iuirrel. )arents hut sel- ^y lived on tlu "niarkahly fond partridges ami ied them witb 's prey on theui. .Is that may w)\ ding to Kalui u Major Iloderfert of New York liad a tame heaver ahove halt' a year in liis house, wIutc it .vent ahout (juite loose Hkeadog. 'J'he major gave him hread, and sometimes /?Wi, of which he was said to have l)een givedy. lie got as much water in a howl as he wanted, and all the rags and soft things he could meet with he dragged into a cor- ner, where he was accustomed to sleej), and made a hed of them. The house cat on one occasion, happening to produce kittens, took ])Osstssion of the heaver's hed with- out his offering her any oj)position. When the cat went out the heaver often took a kitten hetween his ])aws, and held it to his hreast, as if for the pur})ose of kee[)ing it warm ; hut as soon as the proper parent returned he de- livered up the offspring.* Anoth.er well-known amphihious quadruped of America s the musk-rat, or mus([uash (Fihcr Zi/x'f/iiru.s). Its fur lesemhles that of the heaver, hut is shorter ; the down is I'oarser and less valuahle, and the more lengthened part of •he coat is weaker and not so shilling. It is easily wetted ifter death, although it resists the water well when the niimal is alive. The musk-rat measures al)out fourteen inches^ exclusive of the tail, which is eight or ten inches long. It has a strong smell of nuisk, especially in the 'spring. Its flesh, however, is eaten hy the Indians; it ri'semhles fiahhy pork. This species extends from the ■birtieth to ahout the seventieth degree of north lati- tude. ^' Their favourite ahodes are small grassy lakes or ^wamps, or the grassy horders of slow-flowing streams, vhere there is a muddy hottom. They i'ccd chiefly on vegetable matters, and in northern districts principally '11 the roots and tender shoots of the hulrush and reed mace, and on the leaves of various carices and acpiatic -'ra.sses. The sweet flag {Aroru.s ca/dnia.s), of whose ■oot.s, according to Pennant, they are very fond, does not -row to the northward of Lake Winipeg. In the sum- mer they frequent rivers, for the purpose, it is said, of 'mling upon the fresh-water nmscles. \Ve often saw mail collections of nmscle-shells on the hanks of the larger nvejs, which we were told had heen left hy them."t Before the frosts set in, the nmsquash builds a house * Kiihn'>< Tnivols in North America. j- Fauna Uoreaii-Americaua, vol. i. p. 117. X ;i38 NATtJnAL HISTORY. of mud, of a conical form, with a sufficient base to elevate the chamber above the level of the water. It generally chooses a spot covered with long grass, which it incorpo- rates with the mud. It uses no kind of composition with which to agglutinate these materials ; but there is usually a dry bed of grass deposited within the chamber. The entrance is under water. Dr Richardson informs us that when ice forms over the surface of the swamp, the mus- quash makes breathing-holes through it, and protects them from the frost by a covering of mud. During se- vere winters, however, these holes are fre{iuently frozen up, and many die. Hats are manufactured from the skins of these animals ; and for that purpose between four and live hundred thousand are imported into Great Bri- tain every year. Several species of meadow mice and lemmings (Cien. Arvicola and Georj/chuf,-) inhabit the northern regions. Our restricted hmits, however, do not admit of our par- ticularizing these tribes. An animal equalling the Norway rat in size, and men- tioned by Lewis antl Clarke under the name of rat of tlk Rocky Mountains, was described in the Zoological Jour- nal,* and is now known as the Rocky Mountain neotoina (A^. Driniiniondii, Rich.). It is of a yellowish-brown colour above, white beneath, with a tail exceeding the length of the body, and bushy at the extremity. Accord- ing to Mr Drummond, it makes its nest in the crevices of rocks, seldom appearing in the daytime. It is a very destructive animal in stores and encampments. It gnaws furs and blankets to pieces, and Mr Drummond having' placed a pair of stout EngUsh shoes on a shelving rock, found on his return that they had been minced into frai- ments as fine as sawdust. Though neither the black nor brown rat, nor the coin- mon mouse of Europe, are native to America, they no"v occur by importation in many parts of the New World The American fieldmouse {Mas leucopus) becomes ai! inmate of the dwelling-houses as soon as they are erecteii at any trading port. In the northern districts it extend: across the whole country from the shores of Huntly above referred to. X Jo\irnal of the Travels of a Corps of Discovery, &c. ll Travels on the Missouri and Arkansavv. ■^ Travels to the Pacific Oceau. :j 10 XATl'RAL HISTORY neat globular cells of fine dry grass, with a small aper- ture at the to]), — the whole so compactly formed that it may almost be rolled over the fioor without being da- maged. The warning cry of this animal bears some re- semblance to the hurried barking of a small dog.* The s(juirrel-tribe are also very numerous in the coun- tries now under consideration. The chickaree or Hud- son's JJay squirrel {S<'iurii.s Ilinisonius, Pennant) inha- bits the forests ot white spruce-trees which cover so vast .1 {)ortion of the fur-countries. It extends as far to the south as the middle states of America, and spreads north- wards to the utmost regions of the spruce-forests which cast their sombre shade as high as the sixty-ninth paral- ,'cl. It burrows at the root of the largest trees, and sel- dom stirs abroad during cold or stormy weather ; hut even in the dei)th of winter it may be seen sporting anioiiti ihe branches whenever the snow is brightened by a gleam of sunshine. When pursued it makes great lea[)s for a time from tree to tree, but ere long seeks a favourable op- [)ortunity of descending into a burrow. However, it sel- dom voluntarily quits its own particular tree. Duririi: the winter season it collects the spruce-cones, and carry- ing them to the outskirts of its burrow, it picks out tin seeds beneath the snow. Of the flying-scjuirrels of America we may mention the species (or variety?) discovered by i\Ir Drummond on the ]{ocky Mountains {rteroniys Sahrinus, var. li. ulp't- II Ks). It inhabits dense pine-forests, and rarely venture i'rom its retreats except during the night. Passing over the sand-rats (genus Geoviys, Hafines(juet) \ and the genus Aplodont'm of Richardson,;}; we shall give a short account of the Canada porcupine {^Hijxtm jiUo.su.s of Catesby, H. dorsata, I.inn.). This singular | animal is distributed over a considerable extent of Anu- rica, from the thirty-seventh to the sixty-seventh dc}j;ra of north latitude. I)r Harlan informs us that it makes i:> dwelling-place beneath the roots of hollow trees. It (ii-- likes water, is cleanly in its habits, sleeps much, ami * Say's Notes to Long's Expedition to the Rocky Mountain "Y AuR-iitan Monthly Ma^. lor U5I7) p. 45. Ijl Zoolofjical Journal, January ItU'J. thi iour the ( their cl \ QIADIUPKnP. •SH small aper- •med that it It bein<5 da- 'ars some re- log.* in the coun- ree or Ilud- tmant) inha- covcr so vast as tar to the preads nortli- forests whicli -ninth paral- trees, and sel- weather; hut lorting anioim led by a gleam at leaps for a favourable op- owever, it sel- tree. Durini: es, and carry- picks out till ay mention tlu' 3rummond on var. Ji- ulpi- rarelv ventun- Uaiines(iueti ni,X we shall pine {Hjjfiti'u 'lliis singular I xtent of Aiiit- seventh degrr.l ;hat it makes it' trees. It from seven to fourteen pounds. The flesh is whitish ami excellent, being much superior in flavour to that of tlii American hare, and more juicy tlian the Alpine hart of Scotland. 3d, The prairie hare {^Lcpus Virginianuft, Harlan) The fur of this species is intermediate in fineness ano QUADRUPEDS. 3't.'} y visible. In linjj; blackish- tips with yel- proj)ortion ol of tile surlaco sh-brown. A e colour coin- 5 over the un. s. The si(k'.< cars are nearly I below, mixed is common in :h America. It e sixty-eightli he larj^er s})e- eastward, and Missouri and 3. In summer vinter willow. It never bur- nd beast. The tain under tlk md have been I single season ;h). Dr Leach jcies from the ffin's Bay, and ts of America, ^ond the tifty- )ile(l countries )f thin cluni])s iks i:;h.e natural this species b t is denser and ng. Summer 75°) had the -broAvn colour species varieh is whitish and to that of tliu i Alpine hari mu.t, Harlan). n fineness anu flcnsity between that of the two species just noticed. It is common on the north and soutii branches of the Siis- katchawan, and on the plains of the Missouri, as well as on those of the Columbia Uiver. It fre(iuents open (hs- tricts and clum))s of wood, and its general habits resemble those of the European hare. This hare is pure wiiite in winter, with the exception of the borders of the ears, which are of a wood-brown or fawn-colour. In summer. Uie head, neck, back, shoulders, and outer parts of tlie legs and thighs, are ot a iead-colour. The lower ])arLs are white, with a tinge of lead-colour. In the month of March the summer-fur ap})ears in comi)inati()n with the spotless garb of winter, and is characteristic from tlie middle of April to the middle of November, after which die snowy dress again prevails. This species can leap twenty-one feet at a single spring. It weighs from seven to eleven pounds. kh, The little chief hare {Lepus {Lagomi/fi) princep.'i. Rich.). This is a smaU animal of a blackish-brown colour above, and gray beneath. Its head is short and thick, and its ears are rounded. It inhabits the Rocky ^loun- tiiins between the fiftieth and sixtieth degrees, and was killed by Mr Drummond near the sources of the p]lk River. The favourite localities of this species are heaps of loose stones, through the interstices of which it makcvS its way with great facihty. It is often observed, towards sunset, mounted on a stone, and calling to its mates in a slirill whistle. It does not appear to excavate burrows, but when approached by the hunter it utters a feeble cry, resembhng that of a rabbit in distress, and instantly dis- appears among the stones. This cry of fear is re})eated by its neighbours, if it has any, and is so deceptive as to a{3pear at a great distance, while in fact the creatures are dose at hand. The little chief hare (so called, we under- stand, from its expressive Indian appellation, huckathra' kak-yawzce) bears a resemblai.ee to the Alpine pika de- scribed by Pallas and Pennant ar inhabiting Kamtschatka aiul the Aleoutian Islands. It is a diminutive animal, not measuring more than six or seven inches in length, and differs from the true hares in tlie number of its teeth. It also wants a taiL The next group to which we have to call the attention of tlie reader is one of great interest, from tlie size, value, .144. NATURAL IIISTOHY. and general importance in the economy of nature, of the s])ecies by which it is constituted, — we mean the deer, tribe of America. Of these about lialf-a-dozen (hffereni kinds inhal)it the fur-countries. As in the otlier nume- rous groups, we must here restrict ourselves to the his. tory of a very few species. Tile genus Cerrii.s includes all those ruminating ani- mals wiiich are furnished with antlers. Two species arc conunon to the northern parts of both continents; five or six belong to North America ; four to America south of the e(iuator; and above a dozen to India, China, and the ardiipelagoes of the south-east of Asia.* Of these some inhabit marshy forests, others the wooded shores of rivers or the sea, while others again })refer the bleak sides and i)arren valleys of mountain-districts. The species vary occasionally in colour, and are subject to those changes of constitution to which all animals are more or less liable, and which physiologists have distinguished by the names of albinism and mvluni.sm, — the first applied to the white, the second to tlie black varieties of colour. It has alst) ])een remarked as rather a singular circumstance, that the white varieties occur more fre(|uently in the equatorial re- gions than in the colder countries of the north, — a proof, perhaps, that the intensity of light and heat are but se- condary causes in the production of animal colours.t The elk or moose-deer {Cervi(,s alces) is a gigantic ani. mal, of a heavy and rather disagreeable aspect. It is easily recognised by the great height of its limbs, the shortness of its neck, its lengthened head, projecting muz- zle, and short upriglit mane. When full grown it mea- sures above six feet in height. The fur is long, thick, and very coarse, of a hoary-brown colour, varying ac- cording to age and the season of the year. The antlers are very broad and solid, plain on the inner edge, but armeil externally with numerous sharp points or shoots, which sometimes amount to twenty-eight. A single ant- ler has been known to weigh fifty-six pounds. The neck of the elk is much shorter than its head. * I'or tlie natural liistoi y and description of many of the mo'-t rt'*iuukal)lo of the A.siatie speiies, see "Historical and Descrii)tui' Atooiint of Briti.sh India," (bJn-- Nos. VI., VII., and VIll., nt F''dinburt;h Cabinet Library) vol. iii. -|- De.snioulinb. iturc, of tile n the (Icer- ien (lifferent jtlicr nuint'- to the his. linating ani- species arc ents ; five or rica south of ina, and the f these soiTif ores of rivers ak sides and species vary se changes of )r less liahlf. iiy the names to the white. It has also ance, that the ^ciuatorial re- th, — a proof, t are but se- colours.t gigantic ani- Lspect. It is ts Umbs, the )jecting muz- own it mea- s long, thick, varying ac- The antlers ler edge, but Its or shootvS, A single ant- s. uin its head. ny of the mo^l md Descriptu QIADIM PKDS. :U5 and Vlll., I which gives it almost a deformed appearance, though such a formation is m fact renilered necessary by the ;,Teat weight of its antlers, which could not be so easily supported upon a neck of greater length. Xotwithstand- m^ the length of its nmzzle, it collects its food with diffi- culty from the ground, being obliged either greatly to spread out or to bend its limbs. From this results its propensity to browse upon the tender twigs and leaves of trees, — a mode of feeding which the keei)ers of the French menagerie found it very difficult to alter in the individual under their charge. The upper part of the mouth is pro- longed almost in the form of a small trunk, and furnished u'ith muscles, which give it great flexibility of move- ment, and enable it rai)idly to collect its food. In sum- mer, during the prevalence of the gadflies in the Scan- flinavian peninsula, it plunges into marshes, where it often lies day and night, with nothing above water but its liead. It is even said to browse upon the aquatic plants 3 Ui NATUnAL IIISTOIIV. beneath tho surface, makiiiji; at t!ic Fiaiiie time a louil blovviiif^ sound tlirou}j;h its nostrils. The American elks Hve in small troops in swamj)) places. Their gait, according to I)r Harlan, is generally a trot, and they are less active than most other deer. The old individuals iose their horns in .January and Fe- bruary, and the young in April and May. In regard to their geograjjhical distribution, they appear to have been formerly found as far south as the Ohio. At present they occur only in the more northern j)arts of the linited States, and beyond the (ireat Lakes. Captain Franklin met v»ith several during his last expedition feeding on willows at the mouth of the Mackenzie, in lat. u'.i . Although they are said to form small herds in Canada, yet iti the more northern parts they are very solitary, more than one being seldom seen, except during the rut. ting-season, or when the female is accom})anied by her fawns. The scse of hearing is remarkably acute in this species, an. it is described as the sliyest and most wary of tiie deer-tribe. It is an inoffensive animal, un- less when irritated by a wound, when its great strengtli renders it formidable, or during ruttini^time, when it will kill a dog or a wolf by a single blow ol its fore-foot. It is much sought after by the American Indians, both on account of the flesh, which is palatable, and th( hides, with which they in part manufacture their canoes, and several articles of dress. The gr.nii of the flesh i.s coarse, and it is tougher than that of any other kind of venison. In its flavour it rather resembles beef. The nose is excellent, and so is the tongue, aUhough the latttr is by no means so fat ai'd delicate as that of the rein- deer. The male elk sometimes weighs from a thousand to twelve hundred pounds. The rein-deer {Cerims tarandus) is widely distributed over the northern parts of both the Old and New World. It has long been domesticated in Scandinavia, and is an animal of incalculable importance to the i aplander. \Vt are less acquainted with the nature and a e tributes of tlie iVmerican species ; but we shall here follow the prevail- ing opinion, and consider it identical wuth that of tlu' north of Europe and of Asia. There appear to be two varieties of rein-deer in the fur-countries. One of these is confined to the woody and more southern districts, the other retires to the woods only during the winter season QUAHUUPriKS. :u: time a louii iiiid passes tlie summer either in the Barren (irounds or ilon^' the shores of the Arctic Sea. Hcarne's description ,Hpj)Ues to the Utter kind, while the accounts given by liie earlier French writers on Canada relate to the tbrmer. The reiu-deer of the Barnn Grounds is of small sta- ture, and so light o\ weight that a man may carry a full- ;rown doc across his shoulder. The bucks aie of larger dimensions, and weigh, exclusive of the ort'al, from [)() to l.'JO pounds. The skin of the rein-deer is light, and heiii.; closely covered with hair, it forms a suitable and highly-prized article of winter-apparel. '*■ The skins of the young deer make the best dresses, and they should l)e killed for that i)urpose in the months of August or Sep- tember, as after the latter date the hair becomes too long iUid brittle. The prime parts of eight or ten deer-skins make a comt)lc :e suit of clodiin-^ for a grown person, which is so impervious to the coM, tliat with tlie addition of a blanket of the same mat<'rial. any one so clothed may bivouac on the snow with safety, and even with com- fort, in tlie most intense cohl of an Arctic winter's night."* l)r Richardson is of opinion that the flavour of the rein- deer flesh is suj)erior to that of the finest English nmtton. However, the animal nmst be in prime condition, as its lean state is comparatively worse than that of other crea- tures. l*('mniic(in is formed by pouring one-third par' of melted fat over the flesh of the rein-deer after it is dried ;uid pounded. Of all the deer-tribe of America this spe- cies is the most easily ajjproached, and immense numbers ;ire slaughtered for the use of tiie Indian famihes. The other variety of rein-deer to which we have alluded above is called the woodland caribou. It is much larger than that of the Barren (Jrouniis, has smaller horns^ and is greatly inferior as an article of diet. The most re- markable peculiarity in the habits of tliis animal is, that it travels to the southward in the spring. It crosses the Nelson and the Se em Rivers in vast herds during the month of May, and spends the summer on the low marshy ihores of James' Bay, returning inland, aiid in a north- erly direction, in September.t in swampy is gener illy other deer, ary and Fe- in regard to :o have been present they the United ain Franklin 1 feeding on in lat. (.!) . Is in Canada, I'ery solitary, iring the rut- anied by her ,bly acute in est and most 3 animal, uu- :;reat strength ime, when it its fore-foot. Indians, both ible, and the ,' their canoes, f the flesh is ither kind of es beef. Th'^ )ugh the latttT t of the rein- m a thousand 'ly distributed New World. ia, and is an )lander. Wi ■ibutes of tk V the prevail- h that of the ear to he two One of tlie?e 1 districts, the A-inter season. * Fauna Boreali-Amoricaiia, vol. i. p. 242. -|- For the history of the wapiti (T. siro/i(/>/loct'ros), the hlack- tdiled deer (C. inucrotis, Say), and tlie lonj^-taiied deer (('. Icuch- rus, Douglas), we mu.st refer to the writings of the various travel- lers and systematic authors named in the course of tiiese chapters. ;ns VATIHAI, IIISTdHV Passing over tliv ])r()iig-h(»rnc(l anUlope {A. funijir. Siiiitli),un inhal)itaiit of tlie plains of tlie Missouri and Sas- katcliawan, rcnuirkahK' for its ixtremc swiftness, we sha.l ilevotc u few pages to the natural history of the wild . //ff/* and ijout of the Uocky JNIountains, two of the most rc- niarkahle and important of the native (piadrupeds of North Ameriea. ISee tile annexed IMate. The Koeky Mountain sheep (Or?.v nioitffntd, Desm. and Rich.) inhahits the range from which it derives its nanu . from its tjorthern termination, or at least irom latitudt OH', to the fortieth degree of north latitude. It also dwells among many of t'^e elevated and eraggy ridgt- which intersect the country lying to the westward, Ix- tween the j)rincipal range an(l the shores of the l*aciti( Ocean ; but it tloes not appear to have advanced beyond the eastern declivities of the Uocky Mountains, and it conse(juently does not occur in any of the hilly tracts nearer to Hudson's Bay. The favourite i'eeding-placcs of this species are " grassy knolls, skirted by craggy rocks, to which they can retreat when pursued by dogs or wolves. Its flesh, when in season, is stated by ^Ir Drummond to be quite delicious, — as being far superior to that of an\ of the deer-species, and even as exceeding in flavour tlu finest Enghsh mutton. This showy animal exceeds tlit Asiatic argali in size, and is nmch larger than the largest varieties of the domestic breeds. The horns of the male are very large. The ears are of moderate size. 'J'h( facial Hne is straight, and the general form of the animal. l)eing, as it were, intermediate betwixt that of the sheep and stag, is not devoid of elegance. The hair is like tliat of the rein-deer, short, fine, and flexible, in its autunii: growth; but as the winter ad\ anises, it becomes coarst dry, and brittle, though still soft w the toucli : it is n*^- cessarily erect at this season, from its extreme closeness. The lind)s are covered with shorter hairs. In regard to colours, the head, buttock, and posterior part of the ab- domen, are white ; the rest of the body, and the neck, are of a pale or dusky wood- brown. A deeper and nion lustrous brown prevails on the fore-part of the legs. Tlu tail is dark-brown, and a narrow brown line, extendin* from its base, divides the buttock, and unites with tlu brown colour of the back. The colours reside in the ends of the hair, and as these are rubbed off during the ])r(i- gress of winter, the tints become paler. {A. ftirrijir. souri and Sas- iicss, wv slia,l tlio wild . Iiicii the most i< - pt'ds of North ui, Desni. anrl •ivt's its naiiR. from latitude udc. It also t'ratigy rid^t- vestward, hi- of the Pac'itir anced beyond ntaiiis, and i; le hilly tracts ('eedin cra;s or wolves, )rummond to o that of ai)\ in flavour tlii al exceeds tlu lan the largest IS of the mak te size. The of the animal. ; of the sheep air is like that in its autunii: !Coines coar9( ich : it is nf- 3me closenes?. In regard tc art of the ab- ind the neck, 3per and mon the legs. The ne, extendi Ha- lites with tlu ide in the ends iring the ])r(i- ■\^' y^J^-y QUADHIPKDS. 351 -oeu Ini'lici. ♦) {) ;i A •> 2 lU 1 I 2 :i The horns of the female are much smaller, and nearly erect, having; but a slight curvature, and an inclination backwards and outwards.* The following; are the dimensions of an old Rocky Mountain ram, killed on the south branch of tiie Mac- kenzie, and now in the Museum of the Zoological Society of London. Len^'-th of the lioad aii(l body, «... Ht'ij^ht at tin- fore slioiiklcr, .... Leiiti;tli of tail, ...... Length of horn, measured aloiig^ tlie eurvature, Cireiiinference of horn at its base, . Distance from lip to lip of llie horns, These animals collect in flocks consisting of from three to thirty, the young rams and the females herding together (luring the winter and spring, while the old rams form se- parate flocks, except during the month of December, which is their rutting-season. " The ewes bring forth in .June or .July, and then retire with their lambs to the most in- accessible heights. Mr Drummond informs me, that in the retired parts of the mountains, where the hunters had seldom penetrated, he found no difficulty in approaching the llocky Mountain sheep, which there exhibited the simplicity of character so remarkable in the domestic species ; but that where they had been often fired at they were exceedingly wild, alarmed their companions on the ii{)proach of danger by a hissing noise, and scaled the rocks vith a speed and agility that baffled pursuit. He lost several that he had mortally wounded, by their retir- ing to die amongst the secluded precipices."t When the first mission was established in California, nearly two centuries after the discovery of that country, Fathers Piccolo and de Salvatierra found '^ two sorts of dee)' that we know nothing of ; we call them sheep be- cause they somewhat resemble ours in make. The first sort is as large as a calf of one or two years old ; its head is much like that of a stag, and its horns, which are very large, are like those of a ram ; its tail and hair are speckled, ami shorter than a stag's, but its hoof is large, round, and cleft, as an ox's. I have eaten of these beasts ; their flesh is very tender and delicious. The other sort of sheep, * The Kdinhurgh College Museum contauis a fine specimen of tlie female Uocky Mountain shec|). t Fauna Bureali-Aniericana, vol. L p. 273. 7 :i:>2 N.\ rr!K\ some of which arc white, and others hiack, differ less from ours. They arc larj^cr, and have a great deal more wool, which is very j^ood, and easy to he spun and wroup;ht."* The animal first nientione are two passa^^es, which, if not corrected, would lead to ;in inaccurate ccuichision re}j;'ardiii^ the origin < f domestic sheep. Sci Quarterly .Fournal t)f Agriculture, \(». i.\. p. !{74, Note. .t JMlinburgh Review, No. 10(i, i). IJ.Vi. II The svnonvniv (tf this animal is somewhat confused. It is tlit uool-hearing antelope, .hitihtjtr /./;;/r//r'; of Major Hamilton SinitJi" — tlie mountain sheei) (though distinct I'r "' t';-^ V-.p Orisfuaiio-iml of Jameson and Ord; — the Mazir .■> mi, .,/'.■ ' srricca of I{;di- ues(|ue;-~tlie Hxpirapia Aimru\ ": .)' fV; Ufairil' t — the .//.' - I >)»' Aiiuiirana of 13esmarest; — and liie (_',t]-rfr juicricuitu it J{icluirdson. er less from more wool, wrought."' tation 's tlu vild-goat of hibit a brief lest and least ts territorial . ; but it aj»- irtborsixty- lever observ. ;ai(l to be less (les. It was rn declivities er, where the the Indians, s much mort- other hand, f a factor of f easy access lard and dry. iavour. Be np; of wool » ; andthellutU resources ol Kne aninin! and might k t expense.' ^; pally on thf long coarse of Lewis ami I. pp. 'XU, Ii(>-/ ould lead to an itic sheep. Sec ote. used. It is the lamillon Smitli: Orisiittiiiii'i'^i} u-rircd of Uiiii- : — the J/.''- Ql ADIUPf'.DS. 3,5;? The bison, or American buffalo i^Bos Ame'icanii.s), i.<< .spread over a great portion of tlie temperate regions of America, and api)ears to extend southwards prol)ably a.s far as the tbirty-tifth degree of north latit ide. Its charac- teristic ])ositions, however, are the great prairies to tbe v.estward of the Mississippi, where, according to l)r Harlan, they .sometimes congregate in such vast trooj)s, that 1(),()0() individuals are supposed to have been seen at one time. Although tliey inbabited tbe Carolinas at the period of the earliest colonization, they have long since retired towards the plains of the Missouri. None have been seen in Pennsylvania for a long time, nor in Kentucky .since about the year Mud. The influence ex- erted over the nattiral boundaries of the brute creation is indeed strikingly illustrated by tlie geographical his- tory of this species. It appears to hav^' formcily existed throughout ^he whole extent of the Ignited States, with the possible exception of the territory to the east of Mud- son's River and Lake Champlain, and of some narrow lines of coast along the Atlantic shores and the (iulf of Mexico. During the early part of the sixteenth century it was seen by Alvar Nunez near tlie IJay of St Bernard, which may be regarded as its southern boundary on tiie eastern si-.le of the Rocky Mountain chain. It extends iriuch farther north among the central than the eastern territories ; for we find that a bisoit was killed by Captain FrankHn's expedition on the Salt River, in the sixtieth pa- rallel ; wdiile it has not been traced to any of those tracts which lie to the northward of Lakes Ontario, Erie, tSiic., and to the eastward of Lake Superior. Mr Keating states that to the westward of Lake Winijteg the bison is found as far north as the sixty...second degree ;* and I)r Richard- son adduces the testimony of the natives to show that they have taken possession of the flatUmestone-district of Slave Point, on the north side of Great Slave Lake, and have even wandered as far as the vicinity of Great Marten Lake, in latitude (i3° or (H'. The Rocky Mountain range appears to h? ve formerly opi)osed a barrier to the westerly progression of the species ; but they are said to have discovered of late years a passage across these mountains, near the sources of tlie Saskatchawan. They * Acfomit «)f Major Loiij^'s Expedition to the Source of St Peter's Ihver, ■ U. ClUl[). 1. Y 3.51. NATURAL IIISI. I»V. are now known to occur ])oth in California and New Mexico, and tlieir existence on the Columbia is also as- certained. The male bisons contend tofiether with great fury dur. ing the rutting-season, and it is dangerous to venture near them at that ])eriod. In general, liowever, they are shy and wary, and there is more difficulty than danger in aj). ])roaching them ; but when wounded they will sometiniis turn upon and pursue the hunter. " While I resided at Carlton House," ])r liichardson informs us, " an accident of this kind occurred. Mr Finnan M'Donald, one of tlu' Hudson's Bay Com})any's clerks, was descending the Sas- katdiawan in a boat ; and one evening, having })itche(l liis tent for the night, he went out in the dusk to look for game. It had become nearly dark when he fired at a bison-bull, which was gallo])ing over a small eminence ; and as he was hastening forward to see if his shot had taken effect^ the wounded beast made a rush at him. IK had the presence of mind to seize the animal by the loiij: hair on its forehead, as it struck him on the side with \b horn ; and being a remarkably tall and powerful man, a struggle ensued, which continued until his wrist was se- verely sprained, and his arm was rendered powerless ; In then fell, and after receiving two or three blows becaiiu senseless. Shortly afterwards he was found by his com- panions lying bathed in blood, being gored in several places ; and the bison was couched beside him, apparently Avaiting to renew the attack had he showed any signs of life. ^Ir ]\ri)onald recovered from the immediate effcct« of the injuries he received, but died a few months afttr- wards."* The flesh of a well-conditioned bison is juicy, and oi excellent flavour. The tongue is a great delicacy, ami may be so cured as to surpass the gusto of that part of an English cow. The hump, or ivig as it is sometimes call- ed, has a fine grain, and is almost as rich and tender i' tlie tongue. In regaril to the external characters of tlk bison, the male is remarkable for the enormous size of it> head, the conical elevation between the shoulders, its small piercing eyes, short black horns, and on the fore quarter? the great profusion of shaggy hair. Its liind quarters ap- pear comparatively weak, from the shortness of the wooOy * Fauna Boreuli-Aiuei icuna, vol. i. p. 281. Qr.M)RLPKUS. 3. J J lia and New bia is also as- •eat fury dur- ) venture near they are shy danger in ap- A- ill sometimes lo I resided at , " an accident aid, one of the ndinu; the Sas- laving pitched usk to look i'oi he lired at a iiall eminence : f his shot had i\\ at him. Ih nal hy the lone he side with it> owerful man, a is wrist was se- 1 powerless ; Ik e hlows hecaiiu nd by his coni- fored in several him, apparently td any signs ol [nmediate ettW't^ Iv months after- is juicy, and o! lit deUcacy, am! [f that part of a:; sometimes call- •h and tender a.- liaracters of tlit | -mous size of it? julders, its small [heforequarter^l lind quarters ap- less of the woolly I 1. 281. hair hy which they are covered. The male sometimes weighs above '^OOO jjounds; l)ut V2 or 1 I cwt. is regarded as a good weight in tiie fur-countries. It measures eigijt feet and a half in length, and above six feet liigii at the fore (|uarter. The cow is smaller in the head and shoul- ders than the hull. According to Uatines(iue, the hison has been domesti- cated in Kentucky and the Ohio.* It is even reported by some authors to have bred with the tame cow of Kurojjean origin ; and the cross breed is said to continue prolitic. This statement, however, re(]uires confirmation. " Our in(|uiries on the sp,ot," says .Major II. Smith, " never })r()duce(l a proof, or even an assertion from the well-informed, that they had seen the hybrid offspring." This animal is unknown to the Esquimaux on the shores of the Polar Sea. W'e shall conclude our account of the (juadruj)e(ls of North America with the(lescri[)ti()n of the nuisk-ox {OrU bo.s nio.schdtu.s of I)e lilainville). A\'e stand indebted for our systematic knowledge of this curious animal to Pen- nant, who received a specimen of the skin from the tra- veller II earne ;t but it had been previously mentioned, after a vague fashion, by several of the early English voyagers, and ^I. Jeremie had imported a portion of tlie wool to Erance, from which stockings more beautiful than tliose of silk were manufactured.:!: When full grown, this animal is about the size of the small Highland cattle. The horns are remarkably broad at their bases, and cover tlie brow and crown of the head, touching each other for tlieir entire breadth from before backwards. The nose is blunt, and the head large and broad. The genend colour of the coat is brown, anil on the back there is a saddle- like mark of a brownish-white colour. The hair is very long. The horns of the cow are smaller than those of the male, and do not touch each other at their bases, and the hair on the throat and chest is shorter. The flesh of the musk-ox, in good condition, is well flavoured. It resembles that of the rein-deer, but is coarser grained, and smells strongly of musk. The car- • I state this on tho intbrniation of M. Antoine Desinouliiis, not having had it in my power to peruse the work of the writer ahove iianied. + Arctic Zool<)gy, vol. i. p. 11. ■^ Voyage au Nord. Charlevoix, Histoire de la Nouvelle France. 3.56 NATlRAIi FIISTOHY cass of this animal weighs, cxdusivc of the offal, ahout ;i()() pounds. The wool is remarkably fine. This species inhabits a pjrcat extent of barren land to the northward ot the sixtieth ]>arallel. 'J'hey visit Melville Island (north lat. 7.V') in the month of INIay, but they do not, hke the rein- deer, extend to (ireenland and Spitzbergen. These are the princi))al (juadrupeds of the northern regions of the New Worltl.* * Witli a view to avoid repetition, wo here omit the history ave imagined themselves devoted to the study. Now, eve;i the obscurity and mistiness of Huffon, though j)erha])s not always ecjual to other people's sunshine, are yet composed of " clouds of glory," and hence the hold possessed by his writings, and by those oi all belonging to the intellectual class of observers, to whom truth is as dear as it was to Aristotle, but to whom never- theless the common sights of earth " (1(» soiiu'liiiu's seem Apimrt'llM in ccU^stiiil li^'lit, The ylory and the freshness of a (h'eam." The extension which we have given to the history oi North American (juadrupeds in the preceding chapter, and which we bestowed in consequence of the greater im. portance usually attached to the mammiferous class^ ren- ders necessary a more restricted selection in the other branches. We regret this the less in relation to the fea- thered tribes, as an admirable history of American birds has been lately brought w^ithin reach of every class of readers.* We shall, however, endeavour to exhibit a view of some of the more remarkable features of that dt- jiartment. Among birds of prey, the eagle tribe naturally claim our first attention ; but as it seems to be the practice of naturalists to give the vultures the precedence, we sliall a- naparte ; edited by Robert .Jameson, Es([., F.R.S.E. & L., i«;c., four volumes. ]{dinl)urij;h, \H',i]. In this edition (which form- volumes 7^5 — Jil of Constable's Miscellany) the subjects are syste- matically arrang'ed for the first time, and many interestia^ addilioi^ liave been inserted by the distinguished editor. t tlie fable ot liciible to thi ttbn was the 111 occasional ) now folio u )ftt' , oblifzcd 1 witb many inastor-spirit ■ct of nat\iral tbat men ot n entbusiasiri es devoted to mistiness of :)tber people's glory," au(! il by tbose ol ,'ers, to wboiM wbom never- im. tbe history of (ling chapter, le greater im- )us class^ ren- in the other )n to the fea- nerican birds :!very class of to exhibit a es of that dt- aturaiiy claim le practice of ince, we sliall of tlie Birds ot rl(s I.miaii B"- S.E. & L., .v.. n (which fcrni- )ii'cts luv systo- estia^ addiiioib HIUOS. 3.59 The Turkey vulture, or Turkey buzzard, as it is calksl ill America {^Cnthnrtcs aio'a), so comiuuii in the rnited States, occurs in tbe central districts of the fur-countries as far nortii as tbe tifty-fourtb degree. It is partially migratory even in tbe middle states, and retires south- wards on the apjiroacb of winter. During tbeir summer migration, a certain mimber of individuals reach tbe banks of the Saskatcliawan, wbere tbcy usually make tbeir ap- pearance wlien tbe montli of .lune is far advanced, and after all tbe otber sunnner-birds have arrived and settle? ^ ^, I ^'z- % I !> .•KiO NATI'UAL HlsTdUV. of Hudson's lliver, and tlie adult bird, in the plumacv of tile j;olden-ea;j:le, lias also been observed in the Tnited States. The vision of this bird is said to lie so acute and long-sif^hted, that it can discover its {)rey from a heijjjht at which it is itself scarcely visible, notwithstandinjj; the lireadth of its wide-exjWuidcd wings. " A story is cur- rent," says I)r liichardson, "on the plains of the Sas- katchawan, of a half-breed Indian who was vaunting; his prowess before a band of his countrymen, and wishing to imj)ress them with a belief of his su[)ernatural powers. In the midst of his harangue an eagle was observed sus. l)ended, as it were, in the air directly over his head, upon which, ])ointing aloft with his dagger, which glistened brightly in the sun, he called uj)oii the royal liird to come down. To his own amazemetit, no less than to the con- sternation of the surrounding Indians, the eagle seemed to obey the charm, for instantly shooting down with tlie velocity of an arrow, it impalecl itself on the point of liis weapon !"* A large and powerful species, more generally known in America, though not peculiar to the New World, is the liald-eagle {Aqnild /ciicocc/i/ifi/d). It resides all the year in the Unittul States, but is a bird of [)assage in those more northern countries which lie lietween (ireat Slave Lake and Lake Su|)erior. Fish form the favourite food of the bald-eagle, and there seems something more tyrannical in his mode of obtaining it than aitogetlier accords with the ertliern BIHDS. ihn intent and wading; clamorous crows, and all the winged nmltitudes that sul»sist hy tiie hounty of this vast lifjuid niaga/ine of nature ; — high over all these hovers one whose action instantly arrests all his attention, liy his wide curvature of wing, and sudden suspension in the air, he knows him to he the fish-hawk, settli)ig over some de- voted victim of the deei>. Hi^^eye kindles at the sight, and halancing himself, with half-opened wings, on the branch, he watches the result. Down, rapid as an arrow, from heaven descends the ohject of his attention ; the roar of its wings, reaching the ear as it (lisa})pears in the deep, making the surges foam around! At this moment I'le eager looks of the eagle are all ardour, anct levelling ills neck for flight, he sees tlie tish-hawk once more emerge, struggling with his prey, and mounting in the air with scvams of exultation. These are the signal for our luro, who, launching into the air, instantly gives chase, and soon gains on the fish-hawk ; each exerts his utmost to mount al)ove the other, |M'(ies of ea^ii', raise the amount of northern aii ipilrine diurnal liinls to fourt.-en. ('. I.. iJonaparte eiunnerates seventeen species ill his ••' Svnojisis," and has descrihed an eighteenth in his Sn[)ple- iiu'iit to Wilson under the name of l-'tton ( 'nD/irri. Mr Aiidimoii has likewise (h'dicated a new species under the name of J'uLu 3f)2 NATIHAL IIISTOnV. Of the StrujUlfP or owls, ]\Ir Swainson has o})servc(l. '' They present va\ asseinhlajze of hirds as united among themselves as tl)ey are distinct from ail otiiers. Tliere isj we helieve, no one species yet discovered wliicli even a common ohserver would not immediately ])ronounce to tx> an owl, or would he in danger of confounding with a liawk or goatsucker, the oidy two groups to whicii the Strigidic are related in inunediate affinity. Vet, although tliis relationship is too ohvious to he (loul)ted, it uuist be confessed that a considerahle hiatus intervenes hetweeri lK)th. AN'hether these will he lessened l;y future discove- ries, or whether owls, like the jjarrots, are in some'degrec an isolated group, whose aberrant forms no longer exist, are j)oints which may always remain in obscurity." 'i'he largest of the Xorth American species is the great cinereous owl [Strir cincrni). It iidiabits a vast extent of woody territory from Hudson's Hay to the Pacific. It is couunon along the shores of (ireat Bear Lake, and of course in these and other higher latitutles nuist of ne- cessity ])ursue its prey by ('.aylight, the mantle of night iK'ing there a thing unknown during the sunnner-seasoii. However, it hunts chiefly when the sun is low, and wheii tJie sliadows of the great woods are deep and length ned : for it is then that the American hares and many uuirim animals which form its favourite food are themselvc- abroad. On the '2'M\ of May, I)r Richardson discovereil a nest of the cinereous owl, made of sticks and lined witli feathers, on the toi) of a lofty balsam ])oplar-tree. It coti- tained three young, covered over with a whitish down He could only get the nest by felling the tree, which wa- a remarkably thick one ; and whilst the operation was gt). ing on, the about to be bereaved parents flew in anxiou< and re})eated circles above and around the objects of thci: long solicitude, keeping, however, so higli in the air asn Ixi l)eyond gunshot. The young were kept alive for a pt- riod of two months, after which they effected tlieir escajn Sftinlrii, to the iiohlr president of the Liiina>an Soeietv. Four ' IV)naparte's hst, viz. /•'. p/iim/ti'iis, J', iufhmojih'rits, ]■'. fiiraiti' and /■'. I'nihsjiliHiiiiciis, I*., seem to ociiir onlv in tlie sontlir: irarts of the United States, and tlierefore do not fall witliin m, liniits; hut three others, the Stanlev-hawk ahove named, jilci. witli liiitfo Sdnrli-liiliinniis and J{. lii/niKi/is, are supposed \>i'' northern hirds. The Arctic rung'e of Mr Anduhon's specie> piohalily still unkiiowu. HIIIDK. 'Mill has observed, initt'd ainoiiL' Iters. There I wliich even proiioimee to nclinfi with a to whivli the Vet, although (I, it must be renes betwtrii uture (liscove- n souieMeij;re( ) longer exist. scurity." ies is the great K a vast extent tbe Paeitic. It ,ear Lake, and es must of nt- lantle of night unnmer-seasoti. ;lo\v, and wbei. nd length ned : d many murim are themselves Ison discovereil and lined witli iir-tree. It coti- whitish down tree, wbicb wib )eration was gt>. tic'W in anxioii' o\)jects of tbti: in the air as n )t alive for a \)^- ted tbeir escajx Soi'iotv. Four '■ 'i-iis, f'.fiircnli'- ily in till' soutlir:: u".t fall within "i )ovo named, alti. an* supposed tii> idubon s spt'cii"" This spceics measures about two feet in length from bill to tail. Tbe Virginian horned-oul {Strir V'ir(j\nian(i) is ano- ther large s])eeies |)i'euliar to Ameriea, but very widely ditfused over the New World. It was killed by Mr Druin- niond among the Uocky .Mountains. It is known to in- habit the table-lands of ,Mi\ieo, and even the s[)eeies from the Straits of 3Iagellan {I*liunlii'.< Euhotiinrcs, .>s.>) ap- pears to be identieal. In the Tnited .States it is ex- tremely connnon, and inhabits the fiir-eountries wherever tJie tind)er is of large size. Its loud nocturnal cries, is- suing from tbe gloomiest recesses of the forest, are said to l)ear a resend)lance to a hollow and sepulchral luanari voice, and have thus been the fre(pient source of alarm to llie benighted traveller. A l>arty of Scottish Highland- ers, in the service of the Hudson's liay C'omj)any, bap- [)ened in a winter journey to encamp after nightfall in a dense clump of trees, the dark t(<[)s of which, and their loity stems, gave a solemnity to the scene, strongly excit- able of superstitious feelings. Tbe solemn etlect was heightened by tiie discovery of a tomb, which, with a na- tural taste not unfrecpjently exhibited by the Indians, was placed in tbe centre of this secluded spot. 'I'he travellers liad finished their evening repast, and were trimminj< their tire for tbe night, when for the iirst time the slow and dismal tones of the horned-owl fell on their ear. Tbey at once concluded that a voice so mysterious and unearthly must be the :tioaning spirit of the departed, wbose liaL- Icnved fane they bad disturbed by inadvertently making a tin.' of tbe timber of his tond). They consequently passed a long night of sleepless fear, and gladly quitted the iii- omened s})ot with the earliest dawn.* In our notices of these and other well-known sjiecies, we consider it unnecessary to enter into any minute de- scriptive details of j)lumage, preferring rather to illus- trate their history, distribution, and general modes of life, as more likely to interest the majority of readers. In the case, however, of any new or remark;il)le discovery, we may occasionally deviate from this rule, and, as an ex- ception to our usual practice, we m\y bere tak.> an elegant species recently described for the tirst time under tlie name of tlie Arctic or wbite iiorned-owl iStrix Arctica). Fauna Boreali- Americana, vol. ii. p. H!i. :i6i NATl UAL IllsroUY. This fine owl is excee(linj;ly rare, only a sinj:;le specimen iiaviiij^ been seen by the overland expeditions. It mea- sures about two feet in len;^th. Its jj;eneral colour is white, tipj^ed here and there with brown upon the dorsal asj)ect, and marked with crowded transverse blackish- hrown bars and lines. The }j;r()un(l-colour of the under portion of the j)luma<;e is of a brilliant white, l)an(le r.iakc continual sallies on the industrious insects as they pass to or from their never-ending labours. 'I'he Ameri- can ornithologist has given a poetical version of the life of this lively species, of which the following is the com- mencement : — " Kur ill the south ulicrc vast Maia^nioii Huws, And hoimdlt'ss forests imkiio\Mi wilds (MuIosl' ; \ iiuMaiij^lod sliorcs and sulVocatiii^^ woods, Parfii'd 11]) with heat, or drowiiM with iMHiiiii^ iloiMln; Where each extreme alteriiati'ly prevails, And nature sad tlieir ravages lu-vNails; Iinl hither liastes; Toasts the famed gulf,* and, from his heii^'-ht, e\|)lores Its thousand streams, its long indented shores, Its plains immense, wide opening on the day, Its lakes and isles, where leatherM mini(ins play; All tempt not him : till, ga/ing from on high, ("or.r Mima's regions wide helow him lie; Tlu're end liis wand'rings and his \iish t(» roam, There li«' his native; woods, his lields, his /uniir • Dow n, cireling, lie deseeiids, from azure heiglits, And on a fidl-hlowii sassafras ali^lits. Fatigued and silent, for a wiiile he views His old fre(|uented haunts, ae.d shades reelnse; Sees hrothers, comrades, every hour arrive, — Hears, humming round, the tenants of the hive. Love fires his hreast; he woos, and soon is hiest, And in tiie hlooming orchard huilds his nest." — And SO on. The king-bird migrates in sum.!;ier at least as far north as the fifty-seventh parallel. It reaches Carl- ton House in the month of May, and retires southwards in September. It feeds on insects and wild berries. A new species of this genus has been lately descril^'d under the title of northern tyrant {l'i/ran)ius borval'i.^, Swainson). It was shot on the banks of the Saskatcha- wan, but nothing is known of its habits. It is consider- ably smaller tb.an the preceding, and may at once be dis- tinguished from it by its forked tail, not tipped with white. Among the McruJida' or thrushes we may here mention the rejiresentative of our water-ouzel, the American dip- per {Cincfns Amej'kavu.s). Although ascertained by Mr W. Bullock to be an inhabitant of ^lexico, and obtained by Mr Drummond on the eastern declivity of the Rocky » Of Mexico. 3nn NATIHAL IIISTOllV. Mountains, near the sources of the Athahasca Hiver, it does not yet ajjpear to have heeii (leteeted in tlie in- ti'nne(Uate re}2;i()ns of the I'nited States. Aeeonhng t^) Jionaparte, this s])eeies measures ei;^h^ inches and a lialf. It is consc(juently ion^'er than tlie Kur()j)ean (hi)|)er or water-crow. 'I'he general j)hiniage is dark-grayish slate- colour. Tiie legs and feet are Hesh-colour. We as yet know nothing of the hahits of the American species, hut its I'uropean congener dwells single or in pairs hy the side of clear and swift-running streams. It walks under water in search of prey, wading in from the shore, and remaining for some time suhmerged." The hird called rohiti in America is the red-hreasted thrush of Pennant ( 7'/<;v/^/.v 711 i(/r(i tori n.s). It is one of tlieir hest known and earliest songsters. While the fields are yet dappled with snow, they are seen in flocks, and some few lively aspirants will even then mount to tlie top of a post, and make attemj)ts at song. As the w?ason advances their notes are universally heard, and as universally heloved, and are regarded as the " })relusive symphony" to the great concert whicli is ahout to hurst ere long from numerous hills, from every thicket, wood, and fieiil. Although regarded with nuich of the same feeling as that which we ourselves entertain towards our own household hird, the red-hreast, they are, nevertheless, ])rought to market in great numl)ers, and Wilson mentions tliat in the month of .January 1S07, two young men shot .30 dozen in a single excursion. This s[)ecies inhahits the whole of North America from Hudson's IJay to Xootka Sound, and as far south as Georgia, though they are said rarely to hreed on this side the mountains farther south tlh,! Virginia. " Within the Arctic Circle," Dr Uichanj. son has heautifully ohserved, " the woods are silent in the bright hght of noonday ; hut towards midnight, wlicii tlie sun travels near the horizon, and the shades of the forest are lengthened, the concert commences, and con- * While engag'ed in the rorreition of these sheets for tlie j)ress we have been favoiired hy Sir WilHam .lardiiie with a i'ti|iy of his yet unpuhlished edition of Wilson's Ameriian Ornitlioloir.v- Many vahiahle notes have been appended hv the editor to ilhistrati' tlie {j^eneral distribntion of tlios'- yroiips, of whidi tliere are Ameri- can r 'i)resontatives. The se.pplen»entary vohnnes by C. L. Hoim- pai"*'' are iiii'luded ; and most of the new sjieeies discovered or de- scrii)ed by Messrs Swainson, Richardson, and Audubon, are like- wise inserted or referred to. nsca lliver, it '(I in tlie ill- Accord i up; to 2s and a half, ■an dipper or grayish slatc- . We as yet ;ii species, but pairs by the t walks under he shore, and red-breasted It is one of While the seen in Hocks, len mount to mv^. As the heard, and as he " prelusive bout to burst thicket, wood, I of the same 1 towards our , nevertheless, son mentions unj:; men shot s inhabits the lay to Nootka tliey are said farther south I)r Richanl- •e silent in the (blight, when hades of tho .•es, and con- sheets for the lie with a copy III Oniithnlo^'-y. itur to illiistrati' lere are Aiiii'ri- hy C. L. IJoiKi- seovered or de- luboiij are liko- iMuns. 3(i7 tinucs till six or seven in the morninj;. Kven in those remote re;^ions tlu' mistake of those naturalists who have asserted that the feathered tribes of America arc void of liarniony might l)e fully disproved. Indeed the transition is so sudden from the |»erfect repose, the (leathlike silence of an Arctic winter, to the animated bustle of summer ; the trees spread their foliage with such magical rapidity, and every succeeding morning opens with such agreeable accessions of feathered songsters to swell the chorus — their plumage as gay and imimpaired as when tliey eidiveiietl the ieas()ii. Wilson informs us tliat the society of tlie hhie- hird is iiiueli courted 1)V the inliahitants oi' the country, and tluit few farmers neglect to ])ro\ ide for him a snu^^ httle summer-liouse, ready Htted and rent-i'ree. He is mi;j;ratory ovi-r tlie northern districts, hut a few remain throughout the winter in some parts of the United States. A iiewly-discovered species, nearly allied to the jire- eediiifz, is named hy Mr Swainson the Arctic hlue-hin! {I'!ri/f/i(ifn Arrticd). Its colour is a fine ultramarine hlue ahove, heneath greenish-hlue, and whitish on tlu lower part of the ahdonieii and undir tail-coverts. 'I'lu only sj)ecimen procur-'d hy the overland expedition was shot at Fort l-'ranklin in .luly 1H'^.>. It is merely a sum- mer visiter of the fur-coimtiii;-,, and no knowledge of its haunts or hahits has been yet obtained. To ilhistrate theylm/W/VAr we shall merely mention tlu American cedar-bird, or chatterer of ("aiolina, as it was called by Kdwards {Jiovihi/ci/h Ainvricaiia). This bin! was regarded by the naturalists of last century as a mere variety of the luiropean or Bohemian chatterer. It is however a distinct species, of smaller size, and lias no white upon the wings ; the chin has less black, and the bill is shorter and somewhat broader. The Kurojjean bird has also been detected in North America by Mr Drummond and l)r Richardson. The well-known snow-bunting {Embcriza nivalis) is common to the New and Old World. '^ Near the large grave," says Captain Lyon, '' was a third pile of stoms covering the body of a child which was coiled up in tlu same manner. A snow-bunting had found its way througl the loose stones which composed this little tomb, and its now forsaken, neatly built nest, was found placed on tlu neck of the child. As the snow-bunting has all the do- mestic virtues of our English redbreast, it has always been considered by us as tlie robin of these dreary wilds, and its lively chirp and fearless confidence have rendered it resj)ected by the most hungry sportsman. I could not on this occasion view its little nest placed on the breast of infancy, rvithout wishing that 1 possessed the power of poetically expressing the feelings it excited."* The bold * Narrative of an Attempt to reach Repulse Bay. in till* wiiiter of the hlik'- tlie country. r iiiin n snup tVcr. lie IS a few remain ^nited States. 1 to tlie pre- •tic hliie-l)ir(l ,' ultrainariiH hitisli on tlu ■overts. Tilt xpedition wa'; nerely a siiin- jwledge of its y mention tlu ina, as it was ). This bini ury as a mere atterer. It is ;, and lias no lack, and tlu he European nerica by Mr ?'j.ra nira/is) Near the large pile of stonii' iled up in tlu way througi tomb, and its )laced on tlu las all the do- t has always dreary wild^-. lave rendered I could not the breast ot tbe power of ■ The bold !e Bav. iilliDs. HtiU navigator may rest assured that his sinij)le recital of this circumstance is much more eflective and />/r7o;'m/than if iu had had recourse to a rhyming (hctionary. The Lapland huntinp; {E. Ldpixniica) is also found in the northern regions of both continents ; and a beautiful specii's, iuarl> allied to it, the painti'd bunting ( I'/rrtroji/inncs i>irtn o\ Swainson), was lately discovered on the banks of the Saskatchawan. For the history and description of these. ,us well as of many beautiful larks and finches, we must refer the reader to the works already mentioned. The pine-grosbeak { ]\i/n'lii(/(i rnnc/rntor) is tlu largest of the bullfinch tribe. It measures above eleve'i inches in length. Of tiie grosbeaks, [)roperly so called (genus Otccothranstcn), the gayest and most remarkabK is cidled the evening-grosbeak (('. vt'.sjirrt'nui, Hon.). It is a common inhabitant of the maple-groves which adorn the plains of the Saskatchawan, and is known to the natjves by the name of siri^mhustiK it-/K'f/iai/fii.sli , which, iK'iiig interjireted, signiries sugar-bird. According to Mr Swainson's views, this is the only genuine species of tlu genus hitherto discovered in America. We owe it to tlu observance of Mr Coo{)er.* The scarlet tanager ( Tduatjra riihm) is one of the most brilliant of those southern species which during the summer migration shed their lustre over more northern lands. Tlu whole plumage, with the exception of the wings and tail, is of the most vivid carmine-red. 'I'he wing-coverts, jiosterior secondaries, and middle tail-feathers are black, and form a rich contrast to the other jiortions of tlu plumage. After the autumnal moult, the male becomes dappled witli greenish-yellow. The iilumage of the fe- iiKile is green above and yellow below ; her wings and tail are brownish-black, edged with green. Though this ^)ecies sometimes builds in orchan's, and visits tht cherry-trees for the sake of their fruit, it does not fre- quently approach the habitations of man, but prefers tlu solitutle of tbe umbrageous woods. In addition to fruits its food consists of large winged insects, such as wasps, hornets, and humble bees. The scarlet tanager is as yet un- known beyond the forty-ninth parallel, and so comes jus: within the southern limits of the fur-countries. The foi- * Ann. Lyci New Yuik, \ol. i. p. '2'20, no \ATrn.\f, iii«5nmv lowing intorcstinp narrative is given by Ali'Xiin()() or »i()() miles of Hudson's Bay. The magpie {C. pint) is as common in the prairie lands of America as it is in Europe. Seve- ral heautiful jays likewise occur in North America. We come next to the wood])eckers, which are luimerous and witlely sj)rea(l over the American continent, as might beexpectedin connexion with the vast forests *vith which so nuich of the country is still encund)ered. The ivory- billed woodpecker {Pints priiirijKi/is) is undouhtedly the most magnificent of the genus. While many of the " American OrnitliDlogy, vol. ii. p. 230, ?.12 NATUJIAL mSTOUV smaller kinds seek tlieir prey in the orcliard or shrubbery, anionj; rails, Tenees, or ])rostrate lo}z;s, the present sj)ecies inhabit the most towernip; trees of the forest, " seeming particularly attached to those prodifjjious cypress swamps, whose crowded {jjiant sons stretch their bare and blasted, or inoss-hunp; arms, midway to the skies. In these al- THOst inaccessible recesses, amid ruinous piles of impend- iiiii, timber, his trumpet-like notes and loud strokes re- sound throuLdi the solitary savage wilds, of which lif seems the sole lord and master." 'J'he food of this species, ."Mr Audubon informs us, consists chiefly of l)eetles, larvie, and large grubs. No sooner, however, are the grapes of the forest rii)ened, than they are eaten by the ivory-billed woodj)ecker with great avidity. " I have seen this ])ird," says the last-named excellent observer, " hang by its claws to the vines, in the position so often assumed by a tit- mouse, and, reaching downwards, lielp itself to a bunch of gra})es with nuich apparent pleasure."* Although wi- have introduced a notice of this tine species, we are not aware that it extends so far to the north as the countries with, wiiich we are at j)resent engaged. It is, however. well known in many of thj Fnited States. A nuich mori northern species is the three-toed woodpecker ( /-*. tridar- tjiln.s of Swainson), wliich exists in all the forests ot s|)ruce-iir that lie })etween Lake Superior and the Arctie Sea. It is the most r-onnnon of the sj)ecies that occur to the north of CJreat Slave Lake. The varieties of the eathered race are inexhaustible. Kach tril)e and family contains many familiar and well- remembered si)ecies, on the history of which we could dilate with pleasure ; Imt we nmst of necessity leavt even the names of many unrecorded. Two frail and fairy beings, however, seemingly of too dehcate a fabric to withstand the rudeness of the northern blasts, now solicit our regard, and as they have flown far to obtain it, we nmst here insert a compendious history of the North American humming-birds. 3Ieanwhile let us borrow thi words of the enthusiastic Audubon. They apply to tlit. ruby-ihroated sjjecies (^T'rochilus coluhrh', Linn.). " No sooner has the returning sun again introduced the vernal .season, and caused millions of plants to expand their leavt"- * Ornitholojrical Bio^raijhy, vol. i. p. 314. ar shrubbery, resent s})ec'ies St, " seeinin<^ iress swamps, i and blasted, In these al- 3s of impend- nd strokes re- of which Ik' )fthis species, beetles, larvie, : the grapes of le ivory-billed }en this bn-d," iig by its claws ime(l by a tit- elf to a bunch Although wc ies, we are not s tlie countries t is, however, A nuich niort cer (i-*- tridiu:- the forests o) and the Arctie s that occur to inexhaustible, iliar and well- lich we coul(i necessity leavt rwo frail and elicate a fabric rn blasts, now 'iir to obtain it. of the North t us borrow the cy apply to tlu Linn.). " No jced the vernal and their leave- 314. nmn.-s. .S7:J and blossoms to his giMiial beams, than the little huiii- ining-bird is seen advancing on fairy wings, carefully visiting every opening iiower-cuj), and, like a curious Horist, removing from each the injurious insects that otherwise would ere long cause their l)e.iuteous j)etals to droop and decay. Poised in the air, it is observed peep- ing cautiously and with sparkling eye into their inner- most recesses, whilst the ethereal motions of its pinions, so rapid and so light, a})pear to fan and cool the Howtr without injuring its fragile texture, and j)ro(luce a <1(- lightful nnu-nmring sound, well adapted for lulling tlu' insects to repose. Then is the moment for the humming- bird to secure them. Its long delicate bill enters the cup of the flower, and the j)rotruded doulile-tuhed tongue, delicately sensible, and imbued with a glutinous saliva, touches each insect in succession, and draws it from its lurking-])lace to be instantly swallowed. Ail this is doui- in a moment, and the bird, as it leaves the Hower, sips so small a portion of its liquid honey, that die theft, we may suppose, is looked upon with a grateful feeling by the flower, which is thus kindly relieved from the attacks of her destroyers. " The prairies, the orchards, and gardens, nay, the deepest shades of the forest, are all visited in their turn, and every where the little bird meets with pleasure and with food. Its gorgeous throat in ])eauty and brilliancy baffles all competition. Now it glows with a fiery hue. and again it is changed to the deepest velvety black. TIk' upper parts of its delicate body are of resplendent chang- ing green, and it throws itself through the air with a swiftness and vivacity hardly conceivable. It moves from one flower to another like a gleam of light, upwards, down- wards, to the right, and to the left. In this manner it searches the extreme northern i)ortions of our country, following with greaL precaution the advances of the sea- son, and retreats with equal care at the approach of au- tumn."* The nest of this species is formed with a delicacy pro- portioned to its tiny inmates. The external parts consist of a light-gray lichen found on the branches of trees or on decayed fence-rails, and so trimly arranged around tlu' nest, as well as at some distance from the spot to whidi * Ornithological Biography, vol. i. p. 24l\. A7i- NATl UAL IIISTOHV. it is attached, as to ap])CHr like a portion of tlie stem. These little i)ieces of lichen are j^iued tO}!;ether, as some say, with the saliva of the hird. The next layer consists of a cottony suhstance, and the innermost of silky fihres obtained from varions plants, hut all extremely soft and delicate. In this sweet receptacle the female deposites a sinj:;le j)air of ep;}i:s, pure white, and of an almost oval form. A \'irpnian p;entleman kept two of these creatures in a caji;e for several months. lie !,upj)lied them with a mixture of lioney and water. On this they appeared to feed ; but as the sweet and viscous licjuid hrouglit many small flies about the civ^c, the humminj^-birds were seen to snap at and swallow theinsects with j;reateajj;erness. jNIr V. VV. Peale also succeeded in rearing two young ones from the nest. They u.sed to fly about the room, and would frecpiently jXTch on JMrs Peale's shoulder. Wilson himself took a nest in the summer of lS();i, the inhabitants of which were just about to fly; indeed one of them flew out by the window that same evening, and, striking against n wall, was killed. The other refused food, and was scarce- ly alive next morning, A lady, however, undertook to nurse it, and dissolving a little sugar in her mouth, she thrust in the bird's bill, which immediately sucked with great avidity. It was kept for three months, and daily supplied with loaf-sugar dissolved in water. Fresh flowers were also scattered every moiuing around its food ; and in this way it appeared gay, active, and full of spirits, and hovered from flower to flower as if in its natural state. It never failed to express, both by a peculiar motion and a chirping voice, the greatest pleasure when its supply of flowers was introduced into the cage. It became the ad- miration of all beholders, and sanguine hopes were enter- tained that it might have been preserved throughout the winter ; but unfortunately it one day got at large, and fly- ing about the room in a more excited manner than usual, it injured itself in such a way as to die soon after.* The species to which these observations apply ranges during the summer season as far to the north as the 57th parallel. Dr Richardson found it on the plains of the Saskatcha- wan, and Mr Drummond discovered its nest near the • In addition t<» the writings of Wilson .ind Andubon, consult. for a knowlodL;;e of llu> history and habits of humming-birds, Mi Bullock's " Six Months inMexico," and M. Lesson's " Histoire des Oiacaux Mouches." niRD'S. 375 of the stem, "ther, as souk- layer consists )!' silky fibres iiely soft and lie (leposites a ost oval form, creatures in a vith a mixture ofeed ; but as nail flies about I snap at anil r t\ \V. Peak from the nest, ild fre(iuently limself took u mts of which n flew out by ciMg against a nd was scarce- undertook to ir mouth, she y sucked with ths, and daily Fresh flowers s food ; and in )f spirits, and ural state. It motion and a 1 its supply of lecame the ad- »es were enter- h rough out the large, and fly- ler than usual, 1 after.* The ranges during e 57th parallel, the Saskatcha- nest near the ui'.Uihon, consult, umin^-birds, Mi son's " Histoirt' sources of the Elk River. This was composed chiefly of tile down of an anemone, hound together i)y a lew stalks of moss and hits of lichen, and had an internd (Uameter of one inch. The other species to which we alluded above was first observed by our illustrious navigator Cook, on the barren .shores of Nootka Sound. It is the rufflnecked hunnning- liird {Trochilu;-! eolltwifi of Latliam, and the Trorhilus rufun of Gmelin). It is a superb species, and ranges to the southwards at least as far as the table-land of ^lexico, near Real del iVIonte ; from which locality s|)ecimens are preserved in the unrlvaUed collection of Mr Loddiges. It was traced by Kotzebue along the Pacific shores as far as the sixty-first parallel. The migration of birds has in every age afforded a subject of pleasing speculation to the admirers of the never-ending wonders of the natural world ; but in no instance does it more freely excite our admiration than when manifested by creatures so frail, and fantasti- cally attired in hues " Wliich make the rose'.s blu.sh of heanly [), while travelling from Cumberland House to Fort Enter- prise. Its clustered nests are fretjuent on the faces of the rocky cliffs of the Barren Grounds, and a mnnber of them made their first appearance at Fort Chipewyan on the ^oth of June IH'25, and immediately built their nestt: under the eaves of the dwelling-house, which are not more tlian six feet above a balcony that extended the whole length of the building, and was a constant promenade. " They had thus to graze the heads of the passengers on entering their nests, and were moreover exposed to the curiosity and depredations of the children, to whom they were novelties ; yet they preferred the dwelling-house to the more lofty eaves of the storehouses, and in the fol- lowing season returned with augmented numbers to the same spot. Fort Chipewyan has existed for many years, and trading-posts, though far distant from each other. .3?<) NATl UATi lirSTOUV. have l)ccn cstablislied in the fur-countries for a century and a half; yet this, as far as I could learn, is the first instance of this species of swallow placinij; itself under the protection of man within the widely-extended lands north of the Cireat Lakes.* What cause couhl have thus sud- , U'2.") ; the second volume of tlie Fauna Boreaii-AnuMicana, p. Ii42 ; and my own "Illustrations ot Z(»ologv," vol. i. plates 2(>, 'J7) '^^^^ 'ilj and corresponding^ letter- [Tess. • See vol. ii. p. 2!»;>. + See his interestiujj^ historv of the passenger-pigeon in the first volume of the " Ornithological Biograpny," p. \^V^ — IJ'2(». XlUhc sviwAcvVin^ {Calii Iris are lutri It., IlliLfer); American ring- plover (Clianiflriiis seniipalmatus, Bonap.); kildeer-plover ((/<. riiciferns, Linn.); golden-plover (r//./j///r?^///.>., liinn. ?); gray lap- v.Mnj,^( Vuhfllu.s nic/f/nof/dnter, Bechst.) ; turnstone (Slrrpsi/us in- t< rjtrc^, III'); whoo\)\n^-criine (drns .1 iiirrira na, Temm.); brown crane ({,'. ('unddrnsis, Temm.); great heron (Ardea llerinlKus, Linn.); American bittern {Ardea leutif/iito.sa, Alont.); American nvosei {Recareirostra .Imrrirana, Linn.); long-billed curlew [Xuiii' tlius lonf/irosfris, Wils.); Hudsonian curlew (A'^. liailsd' nicus., Lath.); Esquimaux curlew (A^ Oureaiis, Lath.); Douglas' •^andpi()er [Trinya Duuglaaii., Swains.), a new species not uuconi- 378 NATURAL IIISTOUV. Of the still more extensive order of Xntatorps, or web- footed swimming-birds {r()() leagues from 'and, and consequently having no other place of repose, either by night or by day, than the sur- face of the " injurious sea." In addition to an abundant plumage, the truly aquatic kinds, such as ducks and divers, are furnished with a close, and, in some instances, very valuable down, which preserves them from the ef- fects of cold and moisture, and is afterwards used in the formation of their nests on the arrival of the genial season. With the exception of ducks and mergansers, no very marked lUstinction prevails between the plumage of the mon in the fiir-countries as liij^h as the sixtietli parallel ; slender- »haiiks sandpiper (T'. /ihnanfopn.s, Bonap. ?); semipalmated .sand- piper ( 7'. ^einipdhiiata, Wils.); purple sandpiper ( 7'. niaritinui, Brunn.); dunlin ( T. al]n)i(i, Penn.) ; Schintz's saudpi>)er ( 7'. Scfi'ni- xii, BrehiTi.); pij^my sandpiper (7". minuta, Leisler); diminutiw .sandpiper (/'. pusiUit^ Wils.); knot (7'. ciiwrra, Linn.^; semipal- mated tatler (Tolanus .setniptihiid/us, Teuun.); tell-tale ( 7'. vor- J'eriis, Sabine); yellow-.shanks tatler (7". Jiacipes, Vieillot); rod- i^hank or tjanibet ( T. caHdris, Beclist.) ; Bartram's tatler ( 7'. B(i>- tramius^ Temm.) ; white-tailed tatler ( T. ochropiis, Temm.); ^recn- rump tatler ( 7'. rh/oropi/fjiu.s, Vieill.) ; ^reat-marbled j^odwit (Le tnona fedodf Vieill.); Hudsonian ^i,v\vi\i[L. Ifiu/sonini, Swains.); New York godwit (Scdlopav iSfiniohordcoists^Wils.); DrununondV snipe (Sc. Druwmonf/ii, Swains.); Wilson's snipe (A'c IViisoni'- Temm.); yellow-breasted rail {lid II us A^ovo/juraccnsLs, Bona]).); Carolina rail (H. Cara/inus, Bonap.); American coot (Fu/m Americana., Gmel.) ; Wilson's phalarope [Fh. IVi/sonii, Sab.): h yperlK)rean phalarope (J^h. hvjjerboreus, Lath.) ; flat-billed phala- rope (Fh. fu/mninsy Bonap.). • Illustrations of Zoology, voL i., introductory letter-press t plate 3. fitnrpa, or web- i shall present )r(ler are fully e tints of their (luck tribe are ancy of colour, banks of lakes nclemencies of identially ren- iilantly imbued L'y become im- provision, as I )ensable to the 3ther order, as imetimes found laving no other , than the sur- to an abundant as ducks and some instances, 1 from tlie ef. rds used in the e genial season, msers, no very )lumage of the parallel; slender- nupalmated sand- pr ( 7'. niarUhria, dpi[)er(7'. Sc/iiii- si.sler) ; diininutiw Linn (i.j; seniipa!' ale ( T. roc?' tell-tale ( p.v, Vieillot); ml- r.statler(7'. /y^/'- ^v, Teinni.);^recii- irbled j^odwit (/-■ f/sonicii, Swains.); ils.); Drummon(f> ipe (Sc. IVilsonn. racensis, Bonaj).); can coot (Fit/m IVi/sonii, Sab.): ) ; flat-billed pliala- ory letter-press K'). w^' ■ *.■. m: niRDs. Us I sfXL's. The youiip; ditfor coiisidcrahly tVoin the luUihs. and seldom attain the perfect pkmiaj^e till the lapse of one or two seasons. North America produces several )j:rehes (i^enus /*'///- (7'//.v) and sea-swallows {Sft'nin). Aljout a ilo/en ditter- cnt kinds of ^u\\ (Lurus) iniiahit l)()ih the harren sho»"es and inland swamjjs of the fur-countries. A heautiful species called the fork-tailed <^n\\ {Ltwus Sdhinii) is liere represented. This hird was discovered hy Captain Kdward Sahine on a t!;rou|) of three low rocky islands, ahout twenty mile?* from the maiidand, off' the west coast of (ireenland. " 'I'hey Hew with impeluosity towards persons approach- ing their nests and youni:; ; and when one bird of a pair was killed, its mate, though separately fired at, contiiuied on wing close to the sjjot where it lay."* The fork-tailed or Sal)ine gull is one of the most elegant of the gemis. Its colours, though sufficiently contrasted for variety and liveliness of effect, are finely harmonized. The colour of the head assumes a considerable variety of appearances, according to the (Urection and degree of light in which it is examined ; — a tinge of black, brown, blue, or purple, seeming alternately suffused over the deep lead-co'our which forms the })revailing tone by which the parts are usually characterized. There appears to be no difference in the plumage of the sexes, but the female is rather less in size. A solitary examj)le of this sj)ecies was met in Prince Regent's Iidet during Sir Kdward Parry's first voyage, and in the course of the second voyage many were of)tained on Melville Peninsula. Tliey arrive in high northern latitudes in June, and take their departure southwartls as early as the month of August. As an example of the northern ducks, we shall confine ourselves to the Uocky Mountain golden-eye {Chintjula Uarrovi, Rich, and Swains.), a sj)ecies distinguished from our common golden-eye by the head and upj)er [jortion of the neck being of a ])ansy-pur{)le colour, with a large orescent-shaped spot of white l)efore each eye. The white speculum of the wing is separated from a band of the same colour on the coverts by a black strijjc. It is dedi- cated to ]\Ir Barrow of the Admiri'.lty, our chief promo- ter of those important geographical discoveries, fron. the * Liiin. Trans., vol. \ii. .Vi-2. :iH<2 NAM llAf, IllSIOItV. successful conduct of wliicli such essential hciicfits ha\i resulted to /oolopcal science. It appears that the swan lately discovered, or at least identitiedasnew to the records of Hritish ornithoiojiv, and descrihed hy .Mr Yarreil* under the nanieof JJewick'sswai, iCf/tpiiis lifirickii), is an inhahitant of the seacoast within theArctic circle of America. Itisnujch later in its northern iniirratory movements than its congener the trumpeter- swan {C. buvi'iniitnr). According' to Lewis and ("iarkt it winters near the mouth of the {!()lund)ia. Its nest ix descrihed hy Captain Lyon (than whom few descril)e in :i more ap:reeahle maimer) as built in a j)eat-moss, and iH'ing nearly six feet lonj^, four and three (]uarters widr two feet high exteriorly, and with u cavity in the insidi f)f a foot and a half in diameter. The eggs were hrown- ish-white, clouded with a darker tint. A more common sj)ecies of swan in the interior of the fur- countries is tin trumj)eter ahove named. The great hulk of the ski!i> imported by the Hudson's IJay Comi)any pertain to tin- sj)ecies. The white pelican (^Pel.onocrofalus) is frequent in tlii fur-countries as high as the sixty-tirst parallel. It haunt> I'ddies ])eneath cascades, and destroys a great (quantity ot 1 arp and other fish. The great northern diver {Co/i/wbu.s L>w di'ScrilK' ill (cat-moss, ainl (juartcrs wicU . yr in tlie insidr s were hrown- more common Duntries is thi k of the skill' pertain to thi^ frequent in thi Uel. It haunts •eat quantity o\ acialis) is nu; ces of tlie intc udson's Hay o\ les heavily, hu; iroated specii- common on tin L>s its way intt le {Urin troil' Arctic tSeas v. feathered ract* I'lSMKS. HH.i CilArTKH VIII. Some Arrtiiinf of the Fishes tnnl (tf/icr ZitohujirnI ProilitV' tioiifi of the A'orthmi lirffioiifi of Amertrn. Miir^iMin — Salmon — Trout -Char — Capclari — White Fish — Blin' Fish — Hi'rriii^ — Pikf- Hiirhut — r«'r> li — Miill-hcad Norlh«Tii InstHtk — Thi'ir Natural !*n'v('r\atioii from Culd — More Northern Fxteiisioii ofTropieal Forms in Amerira than in l'',nr<»|)«' — Hees — F.vttMisinn Westwards of the Honey-hee — Dipteru — Mehilh- Island Spider — Hiittertlie.s. 'I'liK fishes of tlie nortliern regions are of }?reat importanei- ;is articles of food in countries where a luitritious diet is by no means easy to ohtain ; and where, as we have seen in tlie course of our historical discpiisition, tri|)e de roche, burnt hones, and fur-jackets, are too frecpiently the sorry substitutes for better fare. \Ve shall mention a few of the characteristic kinds. A species of sturgeon called sterlet (/lcc?7^f'n.v^>* HutlH-- utis) abounds in the Saskatchawan. The fishery at Cumberland House is most productive during the spring and summer. This is a nmch smaller s|)ecies than the A. hiisff. An inchvidual weighing (>() j)Ounds is consi- dered large. TheCoppermine River salmon (>V//wo ITcrnii) is shaped like a comnu)n salmon, with a somewhat larger liead. Its size is inferior to that of the British salmon. It is cap- tured in great ([uantities in the leaj) at IJloody Fall, on the Co[)permine, in the months of July and August. Many varieties of trout also occur in the lakes and rivers of the northern parts of America ; but as the kinds which frequent our own otherwise w^ell-known streams are still vaguely indicated by naturalists, the reader need not won- der that we have little definite information to comnmni- cate reganUng those of such far distant lands. The In- dians do not appear to designate their trouts by specific appellations, but use a general term ; — the Crees call them 3Hi NATL HAL lilSTdUV nnmm(rcons!, tlie Chipcwyans thloot'cfiinnch, and tlie Es- quimaux icrlmllook. Tlie vividness of their spots an 1 nia»-kings seems to vary witii the season ; and the colour and consequent conthtion of tlie flesh are likewise liabW to chanij;e. They attain at times to an enormous size ; I)r Kiehardson frecjuently observed trouts weighing K> jKiunds. In Maiiito or God's Lake, ih;:y are re[)orted to attain the size of 90 pounds. A species nearly allied to tlie char (iS'. ulj/inus), but with the tail more forked, and a blunter snout, was taken in a lake in Melville Island. The capelan or lodde {S. GrdulandicK.s) was ob- served in large shoals along tiie shallow shores of IJa- tliurst's Inlet. The white fish ( Coreyon u.s (ilbu.s) is named tlilooak by the Cop})er Indians, and tittdnicij by the traders. It varies in weight from three to eight ])ounds, and sometimes attains even a much greater size. It abounds in every lake and river of the American Arctic Regions, and forms a most delicious food, being eaten without satiety as almost the sole article of diet at some of the trading-posts for a series of years. Back's grayling (C fiiguifi'v) is the poisson bleu of the fur-dealers. This beautiful fish prefers the strong rapids, and rises eagerly at the artificial fly. It was found during the first expe- dition only in the clear rivers to the northward of Great Slave Lake, and measures about IG inches exclusive ot tlie caudal fin. The common herring {Cliipea Hareu- (jns) was caught in Bathurst Inlet early in the month ot August; and pike {Eti(),v tucins?) are common in ali tlie lakes. The liurbot {Gadu.'i hta) is likewise a fre- quent fish in every lake and river. It preys indiscriini- nately on vvli.ttever other species it is able to swallow. and in the spring its stomach is generally crammed Avitli cray-tish to such a degree as to distort the shape of its own body.* It is little prized as food. There h a kind of perch, sufficiently common about Cumberland House, which resembles our common perch in shape, but at tin same time differs in several respects from the European species. Its length to the cautlal fin is about 19 inches. A pecidiar cottus (C ^'o/aris, Sabine), similar in it? habits to C. gohio, was found to occur abundantly on tlu shores of North Georgia, in pools of water left by thi ebbing of the tide. The largest were not more than two * Appendix to Franklin s l-'irst Journev. p. 7-4. 7 tnin INSKCT.S. :is,-> , anil the Es- eir s})Ots an I 11(1 the colour likewise liabW lornioLis size ; ; weighing W ire reported to learly allied to )re forked, and iville Island. 6w^y) was ob- shores of Ba- z/6/i.y) is named ft(tnir(j by tlie > eight pounds, eater size. It nierican Arctic ,d, being eaten of diet at some Back's grayling •-dealers. This nd rises eagerly r the first expe- hward of Cireat les exclusive ot CI n pea Harcu- in the month ot common in all likewise a fre- reys indiscrimi- ble to swallow, crammed Avith le shape of it;^ There i.^^ a kind i\)erland House, lape, but at tlu 1 the European ibout 19 inches, similar in it? undantly on the ater left by the t more than two inches long.* The six-horned bull-head (C. hc.racornls), s also frefjuent in the Arctic Seas.t We have little to say of the insects of the northern regions. Cold is in general adverse to the production anil increase of insect life, and even temjierate climates are nmch less |)ro luctive than tropical and eipiatorial regions, in relation to those tiny tribes. It is ])rol)able, however, that the distribution of many northern s])ecies is still unknown. It was formerly su})})osed that in Iceland there were none, xwA that even in Norway there were very few, and their absence from those countries was attributed to excess of cold. Ilorrebow contradicted this o{)inion in regard to Iceland, and although I)r Hooker in his interesting " Ue- collections" of a tour in that island states that he met with tow,;}; yet Olafsen and Povalsen, during their residence there, collected 200 ditferent species in one small valley. || Otho Eabricius resided six years in (ireenland, and collected only (53 species of the insect class, properly so called.§ In the still higher latitude of Winter Harbour, where Sir Edward Parry sojourned, only six sj)ecies of insects were collected from the beginning of the month of September till tlie August following. In Greenland, ac- cording to iMr Kirby, every order of insect has its re])re- RMitatives, except Orthoptera and Hemiptera; but in Mel- ville Island, besides these deficiencies, neither coleopterous nor neuropterous species were observed ; and even the inos([uito, that shrill tyrant of the Lapland ])lains, appears to have ceased from troubling along those hyperborean shores. It must, however, be borne in mind, that in.sects; can escape the extremes of cold not only, as Mr Macleay ohserves, by passing certain periods in the })U})a or torpid Itate, but also by behig while in that state usually buried in die earth, where they are but slightly sensible even of the most extreme rigour of winter. " Wliat they chicflv rt(juire is the presence of lieat during some period of tlieir existence ; and the greater, within certain limits, is * Supplement to tlie A[)peii(li\ to Parry's First \'ov:~";'e, p. 2115. + For some notices ot" shells and other invertebrate animals of If Arctic Regions, consult the Supplement above named. See l-^o a List of Zoophytes by Dr Flennn^-, in the Appendix to Cap- ttiiii i'arry's Second Vovage to the Arctic Ite^ions. X First edition, p. 272. || Voya^ ea Islande, t. i. 5 Fauna Grirnlandica. 2 A ;JSG NATURAL HISTOUV. the heat, the more active will he their vital principle. ( )i the American continent the extremes of" heat and cold ii the course of the year are, as is well known, incomiJarabi, jrreater than in places of the same latitude in Kuropi W^e may therefore readily conceive how particular fami. lies of insects will inhabit a wider range of latitude in th former country than in the latter, ^\'e see also how ii:. sects may swarm in the very coldest climates, such ;■.■ Lapland and Si)itzher<;en, where the short summer ca hoast of extraordinary rises in the thermometer ; becaii- the cnerp-y of the vital principle in such animals is, witL in certain limits, proportionate to the degree of warmth t which they may he subjected, anl(- also that Mr Macleay accounts for what certainly at tir- seems an extraordinary circumstance in the geographv c insects ; namely, that their tropical structure txtenc nmch farther north in America than in Europe, — that i> in a maimer directly the reverse of that which has bei: noted by botanists to occur in the vegetable kingdoii; When we examine Copris cjiritifcx, Cctouifi itii'ida, lift. tchi 6-piuictata, and other insects from the neighbour- hood of New York, and compare them with species o: the same families from Jirazil, we shall find their difftr- ence of structure infinitely less than that which would r suit from a comj)arison of the entomological productions o the environs of Madrid with those of the banks of thi ( ongo. Air Afacleay admits, that although in his opinion tin insect tribes suffer less in cold climates than plants, it dot> not therefore follow that the ])revalence of cold has no ef- fect in relation to the destruction or prevention of insa; life. In truth the diminution of the number of specie becomes very conspicuous as we advance towards tli. j)oles. IJut this the learned author of the Honr EntdiH". loij'itue supposes to be owing rather to the short contiiu:. ance of the summer warmth, than to the lowness of it- existing degree. In accordance witli this view we cer- tainly find that many insects, such as gnats, mosquitoes KutDniolicirr, jjurt i. p. 4."). iNsiorxs. 3S7 principle. < ': eat and cold ii I, incoir.i)arabl\ ide in Kiiro|n (articular t'aiiii. f latitude in th ee also how in- mates, such ; )rt sununer c;: unetcr ; becau- miinals is, Avitl ree of warmth t K's in a nianiu above principle- certainly at tir- he <>;eoj^raphy c Tucture txteni; ^lurope,— that i^ which has ha; retable kingdoii, onid tiltiilti, i^'- n the neighbour- \ with species ( Hnd their difitr- which would ri- al productions o he banks of i\v . his opinion tin an plants, it dot- )f cold has no et- Ivention of insec Limber of specii nee towards tli \i Horcf Ent(mi< short contim: |ie lowness of i;- lis view we cir- jats, mosquitoe> -thus avoidiii- in the jierfec: I therefore sutll. liule from the shortness of summer, — are nowhere mi>re troublesome than amoiiij; the moors and marshes of tlu' North, ( )n the other hand tlie number of coleopterous species, which, being naturally longer lived, reiiuire a greater continuance of warmth, is sensibly diminished amid those dreary wastes.* Several specimens of a species of caterjiiUar were found in Melville Island. They occurred in the vicinity of Stil'i i Arcticd and Sn.r[fr(i(ja ofipo.sitij'o/ia, and a new niotii (]i(»nhi/x Sdhiiii, K.) was I'ound in a swamj)y part of the island. The honey-bee {A)>h- mdHjica) is siij)pose(l to be not an indigenous, i)iit an imported species in Vmerica, Our land expeditions did n()toi)serve its occur- rence to the north of Canada, The Americans have now xi'ttlcd the Missouri, as far as the f).5th meridian, and it is [■.robable that the New England men, in their journeys westward, carried hives along with them. According to Mr Warden, the honey-bee was not found to the west- ward of the Mississippi prior to the year 17!)7 ; but it is now well known, and has been so for a considerable time, as high up the Missouri as the Maha nation ; having jjroceeded westward ()()() miles in fourteen years,t iSuch a distance seems great for these tiny creatures to advance by the ordinary process of swarming, even supposing that the dight of the new colonies was invariably in a western di- rection. It is at the rate of i;j miles a-year ; but the\ havv' perhaps been smitten by the Yankee passion of settling beyond the clearings.']; A wild bee (^Apiii (iljiiiui, Fab. liont- hii.s Arctinis, K.) of a black colour, with the base and iijiex of the thorax and the anterior half of the alxlonien pale yellow, is very common within the Arctic Circle. || " Scarcely any genus of the insect creation has so large a raiiij-e as this of Bimihiis. It is found in the Old World 4."». • 11)1(1. p. 4»). + Statistii'al, I'oliticiil, and Historical Account t)t' tlie United Mates of AnuM-ica, vol. ill. p. lliU. ij: Dr Hicliardson lately iatonned iiio tl:at in the course of his lorthern joiirnev he saw some bees in verv hi^Hi latitudes resein- ^^\\\v^ our common iiumhie bee, but that he did not at tlie time as- crtaiii the exact s|)ecies,aud the circumstances under wliiih he was ;lii'n placed unfortunately prevented liis preserviuii; specimen^ ot 'he softer insects. || The insect above alluded to is a distinct species from t!ie Ajns 'ilpnui of Linn., which is black, with the upper side of the abd'.- iiien, all but the base, covered with ferrut^inous hair. .{HH NATIRAL HISTORY. and in the New, — and from the limits of phjenogamous vegetation to tlie equator ; but its metropolis appears to he within the temperate zone. The range of the species m (juestion seems Umited by the Arctic Circle, and to go from (Greenland only westward, for it does not appear to have been seen in Lapland or Iceland,* or other eastt^n, parts of that circle."t Of the dipterous tribes we shall here mention only tlu Chironomus polarls' of Kirby. The body is of a deej) black, somewhat hury. The antennic are plumose. Tht wings are rather shorter than the body, of a milky hue, with prismatic reflections, and the marginal nervure? black. The abdomen is slender and hairy. This species seems allied to the Tijnda ,stercoraria of De Geer, but exceeds it by twice the size. Along with Ctenophnra Parrii it may be said to replace the Culices or gnats whicli prove so troublesome to navigators and travellers up to a certain high latitude. The species of the genus Chirono- nius, more especially, are often seen in our own country dancing in the sunbeams even during the depth of winter when Culex is benumbed ; and it was therefore to be ex- pected, a priori, that the former would occupy a higher range, and approach nearer the pole than the latter. Oi: the last day of Captain Parry's attempt to reach the Nortli Pole over the ice, a species of Aphis was found in lat. 89 '•IQ' 44", about 100 miles from the nearest known land.:' This m.ay be considered as the extreme northern boun- dary of insect life. A small spider was seen in great abundance in ]\Iel- ville Island, running on the ground, as w^ell as on various plants, and leaping when alarmed. JMr Kirby had an op- j)ortunity of examining only a single specimen, which was so defeccive from injury that he could not name witli certainty the genus to which it belonged ; but from it.< leaping propensities it was inferred to belong to Salticn-^ of Latreille. To whatever genus it pertains, the specific name of Melmllensis is now bestowed upon it. Mr Scoresby brought a few insects from the east coa^; of West Greenland. Among these were two butterflit> * Hooker's Recollections of Iceland, 1st edition, p. 34. -f- Supplement to the Appendix to Captain Parry s First Vovap- )). 217. 1; Narrative of an Attempt to reach tlie North Pole in Boats. f phscnogamous ipolis appears to j;e of the species 'ircle, and to go es not appear to or other east«:rr nention only tiu ly is of a deep })lumose. Tht 3f a milky hue. rginal nervure? y. This species if De Geer, but vith Ctenophoru IS or gnats whicli ravellers up to a genus Chirono- )ur own country depth of winter srefore to be ex. occupy a higher I the latter. Or i reach the North found in lat. 82 3t known land.t northern boun- IXSECTS. 389 Fnpilh palreno, IJnn. {Fnun. suec. lOil), and PapUio (iia,h\\m.{F2ih.Mai i.ins.n.^.i^X, n. .5Sl). Both of these were enumerated for the first time as productions of (Green- land in the account of his voyage ; for the only butterfly met with on either coast by Fabricius was the Fapil'w TuUia of .Muller.* The entomology of the northern portions of the main- land of America is as yet known only through a few vague and su^.jrficial notices from which we can deduce no po- sitive results, and with which we therefore deem it un- necessary to trouble the reader. We expect ere long a valuable contribution on the subject from the skilful pen of ^Ir Kirby.t * Scoresby's Journal of a Voya^re to tlie Nortliern VVliale-fisli- ery, f). 424. t The third vohime of Dr Richardson's Farina BorpaU-Amf- rica/ia, novv in preparation, will contain a few notices of Serpents, —a d' .scription of tjio Fishes,_an account of the Insects (by Mr Kirby),— and a list of Testacea. mdance in I\Iel- ell as on varioii- Cirby had an oj)- pecimen, whici d not name witli id ; but from it,^ ilong to Salticu< ains, the specitir ion it. >m the east coa.>-; two butterflies :)n, p. 34. rry s First Voyatr' ;h Pole in Boats. :m) S.\TlU\l, IlIsTOUN . cHArTP:u IX. Characteristic Features- in the Jiotani/ of the Xorthcvh liey iu ns of A ineriea . Mr Brown's Ohsorvaticms on tlic rolativo Proportions of tlic Twn f.Teat Divisions ot'Phajno^anious I'lants — Hcautif'iil small Willow from I'>ast (irconland — Jsoticcs of tlie uiorc rtMnarkahlc Spctic^ collccU'd l)V l)r Uicliardson — (Jaliuni Tinctoriuin — Cornus Alha — Phlox Hoodii — Viburnum ImIuIc — Azalea Nudicaulis — Liliuiii Pliiladclpliifuni — Epilohium August ifoliuni — Ledum latifolium— I,. Palustre — I'runus Virj^iniana — Pvrus Ovalis — Crcpis Nana — Cineraria Cony-esta — Pinus Nigra — V. Alba — P. IJanksiana — F. IMieroearpa — P. Lanibertiana — Kmpet rum Nigrum— MyricaCialc — Populns Trepida — Populus Balsamifera — Juniperus Prosti-at;i — Sphu'hnum Mnioides— Dicranum Elonpitum — Gyronliora |)n.- boseidea— II yperborea Penns\ Ivanica, Nlecklen])ergii, vellea- (-etraria Ilicliardsonii — Fuous Ceranoides — Difficulties in the De- tennination of Arctic S[)ecies — Plants recently introduced to tlic iiritisli (iardens— [,atliyrns Decapliyllus — Kutoca Franklinii- l.upinus Littoralis— Clarkia Pulchella — (ierardiaCapitata — New Dodecatlieon — Andromeda Tetragona — Meuziesia Empetrifolin — Azalea Laj)pouica — Dryas Drununondia. Ai/riioiGii, as a subject of scientific and philosophical in- vestigation, botany yields in interest to none of the other branches of natural history, and although a great poet and })rofound observer of nature has asserted that " To him the meanest flower that blows can give Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears," yet, owing to the extension which we have assigned to tin zoological department, our space we fear will scarcely suffice for more than a cursory sketch, even with the to- tal exclusion of all lachrymose affection. Several of our best botanists have, of late years, devoted a ])ortion of their attention to the flora of the Northern Rcaiions of America ; but the subject has as yet made little progress l)eyond the indispensa})le preliminary of correct, though probably not yet completed, catalogues of certain districts. ' the Xorthcrh ions of tilt" T\v(. if'iil small Willow markalilc S[U' 111 — Coriiiis Alba idicaiilis — Lilium (liiin latit'oliiiiii— — ("rcpis Nana — '. IJaiiksiana — F. ini — Myriia(ialc :ii])onis Prostrata — Gyropliora pn- iibor^ii, vclica— cultios in tlu> \)v- iiitroduccd to tlic oca Fianklinii- iCajjitata — New sia Kuipctrifoliii lilosophical in- e of the other 1 a cjreat {xx?! n\ that an trive ■ars, ssigned to the will scarcely with the to- several of our a i)ortion of n Regions of little progress )rrect, though rtain districts, PLANTS. .i:)l From these it is scarcely possihle at jireseiit to select any such general features as would interest the majority of our readers ; hut we shall in the inean while indicate the sources from which those who IncHne to investigate this hranch of science may derive the most ample and accu- rate information. A list of plants, collected in Melville Island hy the of- ficers of the first Polar voyage, has lieen puhlished liy Mr Brown, with characters and descriiitions of the new sjiecies.* This account was made up from the herharia of Captain Sahine, Mr Mdwards, Mr.lames Ross, Captain I'arry, Mr Fisher, and Mr lieverley, whose names are here given in the order of the extent of their collections, (ireat difHculty was experienced hy Mr lirown in deter- mining many of the species, either from their extremely variahle character or the incomplete condition of the specimens, and occasionally also from the want of au- thentic individuals of an identical or analogous nature from other eountrieSj with which the recent accpusitions might ])e compared. The plan originally followed hy the great Scotch hotanist in the pre[)arati()n of his list wixs more extensive than that finally executed. It included remarks on the state and relative jiroportions of the pri- mary divisions and natural orders to which these north- ern plants pertained, — a comjiarison of that hyperhorean vegetation with the productions of nearly similar climates, — and ohservations on the range of such species as were ascertained to he common to Melville Island and other parts of the world. Towards the comjiletion of that plan he had made considerahle progress ; hut he found eventu- ally that to have satisfactorily developed some of the suh- jects just named, would not only have recpiired more time than he had then in his power to hestow, — hut also a more ample stock of materials than was at that period within his reach. If then so skilful an ohserver was unahle to exhihit any general views on the suhject, we hold our- selves to stand excused for their absence from this depart- ment of our present publication. In the list referred to the reader will find descriptions of several new or imper- fectly-known genera and species, with adnural)le illustra- tive engravings from the unrivalled pencil of Mr IJauer. * Sniiplonient to the Appendix to Captain Parry's First Voyage, Fondon, ll!24. 3fly NATl HAL IlISJOUV. In Mr lirown's earliest observations on the interestin^ subject of the relative jjroportions of tlie two primary di- visioiis of i)luenou;anious plants, he had arrived at tlit conclusion, that i'rvm i.j^ as far as (iO^, or perhaps ().V' ot north latitude, the proportion of dicotyledonous to mono, eotyledonous jdants gradually diminished.* From a subse- (juent consideration, however, of the lis^ of ( I reenland plant.- }2^ven by Professor (Jeisecke,t as well as from what In had been able elsewhere to collect, re<:;ar(lin Sviii;(MU'sia, tVJ (iviiandria, }> .\i..iiavia, 'Ml Dia'cia, 2-1 ("rv|)t(»L^aniia, Filircs, 1(1 iNliisci, 73 II»'i)atiia', Ki l:t .v: ... }i .. :v.« Ill ";;;;;;; r^ .. Ml 1-21 ;;;;; ut T) emarkablc for t)t' the Giilinvi mt of (f. />'»•''- the purpose of )loure(l fruit of [ua-iueeua) by I and fatten on •overed hy the small tribute:'," lory of my la- us, had his life a conspicuouvs n an ornament losen to direet a striking; or- )()d of Carlton picuous from a n ednle, named ■d to be high- .^d bark of the the Indians to ieum is calle.> , where it ter- minates alonjj; with thv lictiiln /lupi/rdrrn. The white Ame- rican spruce (7*. ^///>//, Lain!).) is mentioned hy Drllichard- son as the most northern tree which came under his ohser- vation. " On the ('oi)permine llivcr, within '20 miles of the Arctic Sea, it attains the height of '20 feet or more. Its tind)er is in connnon usethrouijjhout the country, am! its slender roots, denominated Jr,^jtli()f'«nily. lis ill CaptJiin HowiT-stalks, rrow on board proiliKV prc- lative i)lace ot rwise than rt- iceiice. '\ wlicre it ter- ho wliite Amt'. hy Drllichard- ndcr liis ohscr- lin '10 milts of ) feet or more, le country, and e indispensable ubark together, flying over the )orary purposes It is the only I have access to e pretty strong ."* The Send. ), in dry sandy It is a hand- iranches, gene- of many years' [ind upwards in of its trunk i^^ at of the other n than F. alba. ; and its wood, d toughness ol ■rs. It was ob- pedition as far of the Mackeii- .atitude.t Th that mtikes any ,s- aylvestris, c»iiv.- riler in the Qua' • Amcrici!! larch {P. unrrortirpd. Lamb.) was observed in swamp) .situations from ^'ork I'actory to Woiiit Lake, in hit. (>.J . It was however of dwartish growth in the last- named locality, sehlom exeeechng the height of six or eight feet. One of the most maurniftcent of tlie new!v-discoveri';landes, nor magnolias occur, and only a single rhododendron, it is, however, the favourite haunt of the u;iant pine. He had measured several more than 2')0 feet hi^h, — he saw some still taller, and took the circinnference of a stem denuded ot its bark, which was 4}{ feet in circumfereiu'e, and at l!H) feet from ils base still bore a circuniterence of 4.'; feet. The annuui rin;/^ on one stem were ascertained to be nine hundred.'^ 7 I'LANTS. 39!' 2 to l(') inchts 1(1 destitute of long and tour weet and of a and li,i2;lit. It •itie f2;ravity is ndance of ani- froui the tret flavour, and is used by the ' food.* The jy are hkewise inter use.t Northern IV- detineih The frnrn nigrun/) Its fruit, after it ; it is much ditt'erent kinds of that speciet^ lian women use rcupine quills. frcpifhi) occurs of Great Slave ■tter in a p;reen The form of and Ivlin. Nou 'lit, Dr Traill (.1 \tract from oiU' ? I was ^reatlv ::;ave mo a iDost M'kv iVIoulltaiIl^. )ns of a travclloi 'tween til'.' .<>»:v- 1 is striking;-. The (1 with nu^j.l;nolia^ of tlio eastern,— k is found, while md only a siii|^lc unt of the i>;iaiit ot hij^rli, — he saw stem denuded (ii at l!)0 feet from le annual rinij^ the leaf-stalk in this species is hic^ldy curious, and beau- tifully accords with, and accounts for, its coiitinual men- tion, — the upper i)art beini^ rounded, and suddenly, at its junction with the leaf, becomiui^ so thin and flat as to have scarcely sufficient strenj:;th to support it. The bal- sam po})lar {P. ha/.sdtnifcrd) may be said to grow to ;< great(?r circumference than any other species in these northern regions. Although it burns badly when green. and gives little heat, its ashes yield a great ([uantitN of potash. It was traced as far north as (ireat Slave Lake, and the south branch of the Mackenzie has been namjtl Riviere au\ Liards from its fre(}uent prevalence in that (juarter. (ireat j)art of the drift-timber observed on the shores of the Arctic Sea belongs to this species of tree. It is called ugly poplar (matheh-meetoos) by the (,'rees. The fruit of the common juniper is known under the api)ellation of cro wherry to the last-named nation ; and iUiother species of that i)lant, of almost equal frefpiency {Jiinipern.s p)'(hstrata), grows close to the ground, and sends out Hagelliform branches two yards long. Of the Musci we shall here mention the Sphichnum innioiik-s which is very common on the Barren (iroimds. where it forms little tufts, the roots of which are found always to include the hones of some small animal. Di- rraaiDu vlonyfitnm likewise occurs on those desolate dis- tricts, where, with other species of the genus, it forms dense tufts very troublesome to pedestrians. These are called "women's heads" by the Indians, "because," say the latter, " when you kick them, they do not get out ol' the way;" — a fine commentary on a life of unsophisticated nature, and a beautiful illustration of the refined ideas which prevail in countries " Where wild in woods the noblc: savage runs." Of the Lichenes, of which there are many species in these northern countries, we shall name a few exam])les. Gyrophoru proho-scidea is found on rocks on the Barren (irounds, and is more abundant tow^ards the Arctic Sea tlian G. ftf/pcrborm. These two species, in common with G. Pennsiilvanicd and JMerktenfn'rijn, were found in greater or less abundance in almost all rocky places throughout the northern portions of the overland journey. They were all four used as food ; but as our travellers had not tin means of extracting the bitter principle from them, they 100 NAT! KAL HIST(tm'. proved injurious to several of the party by inducing se- vere })o\vel-coniplaints. 'i'lie Indians reject tliem all ex- (•e])t G. M(>c/i/enh(>r(/ii, which, when boiled along with tish-roe or other animal matter, is agreeable and nutri- tious. The last-named lichen is, however, rather scarce on tlie Barren Grounds; and l)r Richardson and his com- panions were obliged to resort to the other three, which, though they served the purpose of allaying the aj)petite, were found to be very ineHicientin restoring or recruiting strength. The G. vellea is characteristic of moist and shady rocks, and is consequently most luxuriant in woods. !t forms a pleasanter food than any of the species we have named ; l)ut it unfortunately occurs Init sparingly on the Barren (irounds, where its presence would be most desirable. A new plant named Cetruria liic/uird.sonii by l)r Hooker, was found on these grounds generally in the tracks of the rein-deer. It did not appear to occur to the southward of the (xreat Slave Lake. About a score of fungi were picked up by our scientific travellers. Ex- elusive of a conferva, and the fragment of a floridea, the Fucufi eeranoides was the only alga observed in the Arctic Seas.* The Appendix to Captain Parry's second voyage was j)ublished in lH2o, and contains, among other highly- prized contributions, a botanical Appendix by I)r Hooker. When the extent of the collections examined by that ac- complished botanist is consitlered, a greater accession of new s})ecies might have been expected than actually oc- currecl ; but this is perhaps to be explained by the cir- cumstance of the countries explored during the secoc. voyage being as it were intermediate between those prr viously examined, — Melville Island being to the north, anil the continental portion of America, bordering the Arctic Sea, lying to the south of the districts to which we at present more immediately refer. This, in tlie opi- nion of l)r Hooker, diminisbed tlie probability of the oc- currence of many new species. In point of mere num- ber, however, the second collections very considerably exceeded those of the preceding voyage, — and this may be explained partly by the more southern latitude in which the plants were gathered, and partly by the length of time spent in those districts. Dr Hooker conceives 4 I'il Appendix to Frauklin'.s First Journey, p. 7'>3. PLANTS. 401 inducing se- : them all ex- (l along with ie and nutri- ther scarce on and his corn- three, which, the appetite, r or recruiting of moist and iant in woods, he s])ecies we It sparingly on vould he most ichard.sonii by enerally in the to occur to the )out a score of avellen-. Kx- a floridea, the ;d in the Arctic kl voyage was other highly- by l)r Hooker, led hy that ac- accession of m actually oc- led by the cir-. ng the secoc. een those pr« to the north, bordering the ricts to which his, in t)ie opi- )iUty of the oc- of mere num- considerably -and this may rn latitude in by the length oker conceives , p. 7<>Ii. that, as an illustration of the botanical productions of a region extending from between lat. 62° to 7()^ north, his catalogue may be regarded as tolerably complete. The variety of cryptogamia is particularly great, and the her- baria were in such admirable order as to reflect the high- est credit on the skill and assiduity of the gentlemen by whom *hey were collected and preserved. " It may not be amiss," I)r Hooker observes, " to no- tice here the extreme diflicuity which attends the deter- mination of what ought and what ought not to be consi- dered as good species among Arctic plants. Vegetables of our own more southern latitudes often assume, in those frigid regions, an aspect quite different from what we are accustomed to see them wear ; and which, without refer- ring to a very extensive series of specimens, might well be supposed to afford decided marks of specific distinc- tion. Mr Jkown seems to be fully aware of this, and he speaks with caution of the identity of several of his new species. In more than one instance, after having tlrawn out a description of a supposed new individual, 1 have found cause to alter my opinion concerning it, and finally to consider it only as a variety of a well-known kind ; nor shall I be surprised if future observations should show- that my Saxifraya plantayhiifolia nmst be united to S. nivalis, and my ChrysuHikermim grandijiorum io C. ino- doriun, though at first sight nothing can ap;)ear more dis- tinct."* We shall conclude this branch of the subject by a few miscellaneous notices of recently-discovered species. The ten-leaved everlasting pea {Lathyrus decaphyllus) v/as found on the banks of the Saskatchawan by l)r Richardson and Mr Drummond. It is adorned by fine heads of flowers, of a bright rwl colour before expan. sion, but which become purple as they open. This is an exceedingly ornamental plant, measuring about three feet in height. It was first raised in this country by Mr Pa- trick Neill of Canonmills, a gentleman w'U known for his encouragement of horticulture, and for his general attainments in many branches of natural science. Franklin's eutoca {Eutoca Fra7iklinii).f This inte- * Appendix to Parry's Second Vovaj^e to the Arctic Uej^Mons, p. 3«2. •f* Botanical Magazine, t. 2*J85 . 2 B i 409 NATUKAL HISTORY. resting annual was discovered by Dr Richardson during,' the first overland expedition. It was found growing in abundance amongst trees that had been destroyed by tire, on the banks of the Missinnippi, and was named by -Mr Brown in honour of the leader of the gallant band.* It has now become well known in our gardens, the seeds collected during the second expedition having been pretty generally distributed. It is a hardy plant, which recom- mends itself to notice by the profusion of its bright blue- coloured blossoms.t The seashore lupin {Lupimts Uttoralis).X This or- namental and hardy perennial was discovered by Mr Douglas, who found it " growing abundantly on the sea- shore of North-west America, from Cape Mendocino to Puget's Sound. Its tough branching roots are service- able in binding together the loose sand, and 'hey are also used by the natives of the river Columbia as winter food, being prepared by the simple process of drawing them through the fire until all their moisture is dissipated. The roots are then tied up in small buntUes, and will keep for several months ; when eaten, they are roasted on the embers, and become farinaceous. The vernacular name of this plant is Somnuchtan ; and it is the liquorice s})oken of by Lewis and Clarke, and by the navigators who have visited the north-west coast of America." We may add that Mr Douglas has enriched our gar- dens by upwards of ten new species of this fine genus. Beautiful Clarkia {ClarJda pulchella).\\ This hardy annual deserves its specific name, as it is really one of the most beautiful which has been recently introduced to our gardens. It was first discovered by Mr Lewis on the'Koos- koosky and Clarke Rivers, but was afterwards found by Mr Douglas extending from the great falls of the Colum- bia to the Rocky Mountains, and seeds were forwarded by him to the London Horticultural Society. The fiowers are generally of a fine lilac colour, but a pure white variety is also known. Mr Douglas discovered in the northern parts of Ame- rica, and introduced into the British gardens, about fif- teen new species of Pentstemon, all of which are orna- * Addenda to Ap[)endi.x to Franklin's First Journey, p. 7C4, ami tab. 27. t Ur Hooker, in Bot. Mag. + Ibid. t. 2952. H Ibid. t. 2911]. -ii- r^^^Pg'^^-'*'^^^*^' ' ' '^ ' ^''"'* "**' * ' ' '^ PLAXI'S. W.i nlson duriiij^ cl growing in ■oyed by tire, lamed by Mr It band * It ns, the seeds cr been pretty which recom- s bright blue- ).% This or- ivered by Mr :ly on the sea- Mendocino to ts are service- 1 'hey are also IS winter food, drawing them is dissipated. i, and will keep roasted on the n*nacular name ; the hquorice the navigators America." fiched our gar- i fine genus. II This hardy eally one of the Toduc'ed to our isonthe'Koos. ards found by of the C'olum- ere forwarded [Society. The but a pure parts of Ame- [lens, about tit- vhich are orna- mental, and many exceedingly beautiful herbaceous plants. To the same intelligent and indefatigable collector we are also indebted for several fine species of Oenothera or tree- primrose. We owe to Dr Ilicliardson and Mr Drum- monrl the introduction to our gardens of the following species : — viz. Gvrardia capitata, a handsome perennial ; an apparently new species of Dodpcdtfteon, which has flowered this summer in the Edinburgh Botanic (iarden ; Andromeda tetragona, Mcnziesia empetrifolia, Azalea Lapponica (three very beautiful small shrubby plants), and Dryas Drummondii, Tlie last-named plant bears yellow flowers. Of the other two known species of the iienus, .one of which is a native of the mountains of Scotland, the flowers are white. lurney, p. 7C4, and I. 11 Ibid. 1.29113. VOi NATUHAL IIISTOIIV. CHAPTER X. Sketch of the Geological Features of .some of the Northern Districts of America. Krozpn Subsoil of Hudson's Bay — Primitive Rocks of Hayes Ri- ver — Hill River— Borders of Knee Lake — Remarkable Rttck- island of Maijnetic Iron Ore — Lake Winipejj;' — Limestone Dis- trict — Port Cliipewyan — Carp j.ake— Gneiss Pormation of the Barren Grounds — Transj)arent Waters of (ireat Bear Lake — Kort Franklin — Bear Lake River — Lignite Pormation of Mac- kenzie River — S))ontaneons Fire — Pipe-day — Alluvial Islands at tlie Moutli of the Mackenzie — Copper ^lountains — Copper- mine River — Lslands of the Arctic Sea — Arctic Shore — (.ajx! Barrow — Galena Point — Moore's Bay — Bankes' Peninsula — Bar- ry's Island — Cape Croker — Point Turnafj^ain — General Occur- rence ol" the New Red Sandstone — Hood's River — Wilberforcc Falls — Gneiss Formation — General Sununary. Thk great extent of country traversed by our overland adventurers, the dreary continuance of that universal snow, which so long rendered the surface of the earth in many places almost inaccessible, the frequent journeys in canoes. ij.nd the difficulties which almost perpetually prevailed in the way of transporting weighty articles, prevented a complete or very satisfactory knowledge being obtained of the geological structure of the Northern Regions of America.* For the reasons stated beloAv, we shall hen * In the first volume of the Edinburg'h Cabinet Librarj', en- titled, " Narrative of Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Sea.'- and Reg'ions," the reader will find a chapter on Arctic Geolog-y In Professor Jameson, in which the characteristic formations of Clic- rie Island, Jan Mayen's Island, Spitzberjjen, Old Greenland, and the various insular and continental shores explored by the expedi- tions under Captains Ross and Parr}', are described and commented on. So far, therefore, as regards many of the great North-eastern Regions of America, we beg to refer the reader to Professor Jame- son's skilful summary. See also Observations on the Rock Speci- mens collected during the First Polar Voyage, by Cliarles Koni^^ Ks(|. Supplement to the Appendix, p. 24y. ippp- 'mm^imimimii GEOLOGY. 405 fthe Northern cks of Hayes Ri- ernarkable Hock- _Liniest(»ne Dis- Formation of the eat Bear Lake— 'ormatiou of Mac- -Alliivial Islan(l> )untain.s— Copper- ctic Shore — (.a|K! 4' Peninsula— Bar- —General Occiir- iver — Wilberforw ly our overland universal snow, earth in many rneys in canoes, ly prevailed in s, prevented a being obtained ern Regions of we shall hert ;s )inet Library, en- in the Polar Sen- Arctic Geology h) )rniations of Clie- d Greenland, and red by the expedi ;d and commented eat North-eastern o Professor Jame- n the Rock Speii- jy Charles Koni^^ confine our observations to certain restricted districts of those regions. Between the fifty-sixtli and fifty-cightli parallol;^ the western sliores of Hudson's IJay are extremely fiat, and the depth of water decreases very gradually on aj)proach- ing them. Dr Richardson states that in seven fathoms of water the tops of the trees are just visible from a ship's deck. Large ))Oulder-stonos are scattered over tiie beach, and sometimes form shoals as far as five miles from shore. Tiiese are, of course, troublesome and dangerous to boats. Hayes and XelsoJi Rivers enter Hudson's IJay about the central portion of this quarter. They are separated on reaching the coast merely by a low alluvial point of land, on which York Factory is stationed. A low and uni- formly swampy aspect characterizes the surrounding country, and the banks of Hayes River at least for fifty miles inland. The upper soil presents a thin stratum of half-decayed mosses, immediately under which we find a thick bed of tenacious and somewhat slaty bluish clay containing boulder-stones. Forests, consisting chiefly of spruces, larches, and poplars, occur, but the individual trees, except under local circumstances of a favourable nature, are of small size. The subsoil is generally frozen, and as it consequently retains a great deal of the surface-water, swamps of sphagna and other mosses are always being formed ; but the bright summer days, though long, are few, and as vegetation thus decays but slowly, little peat occurs. During a favourable season the ground thaws to the depth of about four feet ; but there still remains, it is said, a frozen bed of ten or eleven feet, beneath which we find loose sand. As the earth is not thus permanently frozen in the interior countries of North America, the ungenial condition of the soil about York Factory ought probably to be attributed .0 the neighbourhood of the sea, which is too much encumbered with ice during winter to mitigate the severity of those naturally frost-bound regions, and being laden along shore with numerous icebergs and other insulated masses^ even to the middle of iVugust, must of course diminish the intensity of the summer heat.* The boulder-stones just mentioned show that there * Appendix to F'raiiklin's First Journey to the Shores of tlie Polar Sea, p. 4yi». I lOli NATURAL IIISTORV. occur in the district of Hayes Hiver several primitiv/' rocks, such as red j^rauite, liornblende rock, gneiss, and syenite ; of the trtni.sit'ion class, gray wacke ; and of the •secondurii class, red sandstone, — belonging pro])ahly to the new red sandstone formation, in which is included tht- rothegende and variegated sandstone. Two kinds of Ume- stone likewise occur in this district. The hanks of Steel Uiver, the principal branch of the Hayes, present the same general characters as those of the stream into which it flows. The same may be said of Fox and Hill Rivers, the union of which forms the Steel River. However, on the lower parts of Hill River the banks are more varied in their outlines, and rising more precii)itately and from a narrow channel, they attain to an elevation of nearly 200 feet. About a mile below the Rock Portage, that is, about 100 miles from the sea, rocks first occur in ,situ. They consist of gneiss, and rise in the channel of the river from beneath lofty banks of clay. This gneiss formation seems to extend to Lake Winipeg, and contains subordinate beds and veins of granite, and beds of hornblende rock, and mica-slate. At the Swampy Portage a bed of red felspar occurs. It contains small grains of epidote, and at the Upper Portage hornblende-slate was observed, alternating with gray gneiss, slightly intermingled with hornblende, together with betls of ([uartz rock containing precious garnets. At the Lower Portage on Jack River (the name of Hill River after crossing Swampy Lake) a red granite occurs. The rocks on Jack l{i\ ^r are low, with a very spare covering of soil ; the woods are thin, and the surrounding country flat. The borders of Knee Lake present similar characters ; but in one spot which was examined on account of its ex- liibiting a m.ore luxuriant growth of trees, the soil was still thin, but the subjacent rock consisted of primitive greenstone, with disseminated iron pyrites. " About half a mile from the bend or knee of the lake," says Sir John Franklin, " there is a small rocky island, composed of magnetic iron ore, which affects the magnetic needle at a considerable distance. Having received previous infor- mation respecting this circumstance, we watched our com- passes carefuUy, and perceived that they were affected at the distance of three hundred yards, both on the ap- proach to and departure from the rock: on decreasing tlie distance they became gradually more and more un- I Gi:<>LO(;Y 40; cral primitivr k, gneisK, ami :e ; ami of the probably to the i included the I kinds of lime- branch of the as those of the lay be said of brnis the Steel Hill lliver the id rising more ley attain to an nile below the from the sea, of gneiss, and ath lofty banks L'xtend to Lake 5 and veins of ind mica-slate, lar occurs. It Upper Portage rith gray gneiss, ther with betls At the Lower ill River after rs. The rocks vering of soil ; ;; country flat. ;haracters ; but unt of its ex- s, the soil was id of primitive " About half says Sir John , composed of luetic needle at previous infor- ched our com- ere affected at h on the ap- on decreasing and more un- steady, and on landing they were rendered useless ; and it was evident that the general magnetic influence wa> totally overpowered by the local attraction of the ore. When Kater's compass was held near to the ground, on the north-west side of the island, the needle (lipj)ed so nuich that the card could not be made to traverse by any adjustment of the hand ; but on moving the same com- pass about thirty yards to the west part of the islet, the needle became horizontal, traversed freely, and pointed to the magnetic north."* We are indebted to Sir Alexander Mackenzie for the valuable observation, that the principal lakes in thest- northern quarters are interposed between the primitive rocks and the secondary strata which lie to the westward of them. Of tliis Lake \V^ini})eg aflbrds a good example. It is a long narrow sheet of water, bounded on its eastern side by primitive rocks, which are mostly granitic, whilst horizontal limestone strata form its more indented western shore. The north shore of Lake Winipeg is formed into a peninsula by Play-Cireen Lake and Limestone Bay. Steep clifl's of clay are here prevalent, similar to those which preceded the gneiss in Hill River, but containing rather more calcareous matter. The beach is composed of calcareous sand, and fragments of water-worn lime- stone, of which there are two kinds, — the one yellowish- white, dull, with conchoiilal fracture and translucent edges ; the other bluish and yellowish-gray, dull, with an earthy fracture and opacjue. l)r Richardson did not ob- serve any rocks of the former kind in situ in this neigh- lx)urhood, although cUtfs of the latter were apparent on the west side of Limestone Bay, and continued to bountl the lake as far as the mouth of the Saskatchawan, and were reported to spread down the whole of its western shore. The extension of the limestone deposite of Lake Wini- peg, in a w-esterly direction, has not been ascertained, but it has been traced as far up the Saskatchawan as Carlton House, where it is at least '2S() miles in breadth. This limestone extends over a vast tract of country, and may in general be characterized as compact, splinty, and yellowish-gray. It is very testaceous, anil large por- tions of it are entirely composed of bivalve shells. In * Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, p. M. r 408 NATLKAL IIISTOIIY. the journey up tlie Saskatcliawan it was traced to the Neepewan, — a distance of ;iO(> miles, — where it is either succeeiled or covered hy cHtt's of calcareous clay. It is prohahle that the lini(>stone formation not only extends over a vast portion of the ])lains, hut also runs parallel to the Ilocky Mountains as far as ^Mackenzie liiver. Be- tween it and tlie Rocky .Mountains, rocks of the coal for- mation occur ; and heds of hurniu}; coal have heen known for many years on the upper parts of the Saskatchawan, as well as on the last-named river. One of the most marked characteristics of the limestone formation is the entire exclusion of foreign heds. It was never oljserved in association with any other rock, except, perha])s, on Klk Iliver, where it appeared in contact with com|)act earthy marl and slag<:;y mineral-pitch, or hituminous sandstone ; and on Cojjpermine Kiver, where rolled fraj^- ments of a similar stone were found connected with layers of dark flinty slate. Salt springs and lakes exist from twelve to twenty miles to the northward of Carlton House. In Athabasca Lake Sir .lohn Franklin's party came again u])on the edge of the primitive formation. Fort C'hipewyan seemed to stand uj)on a granite rock, and a little to the eastward a reddish granite is associated with gray gneiss. Granite is the most abundant rock on Slave Kiver ; but it tlisappcars about a mile and a half below the Portage des Noyes, and the banks from thence to Slave Lake are alluvial. At the mouth of the Yellow Knife River, and in Lake Prosperous, mica-slate pre- vailed ; and between Rocky and Carp Lakes the granite contains many beds of mica-slate, often passing into clay- slate. Here the country is tolerably wootled, and white spruce occupy the rocky situations, Pinus Banksiana the sandy spots, and aspen the low moist places.* At Carp Lake the hills are of lower altitude, the valleys are less fertile and ha"e fewer trees, and these features seem to characterize the commencement of the gneiss formation, which extends over the great district to the eastwartl of the Coppermine River, termed by the Indians the Barren Grounds. The soil is inimical to almost every s])ecies of vegetation. The summits of the bills about Fort Enterprise are composed of a durable red * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, p. 520. m^ mm^mmm traced to the re it is eitlier iS clay. It is ; only extends ms parallel to I Uiver. Be- f the coal Ibr- *e been known •saskatchawan, > of the most mation is the iever observed ;, perhaps, on with compact )r bituminous !re rolled t'rag- ted with layers ces exist from Carlton House, 's party came mation. Fort nite rock, and [issociated with rock on Slave I a half below rom thence to f the Yellow lica- slate pre- es the granite ising into clay- ed, and white Jjanksiana the s.* (le, the valleys these features of the gneiss istrict to the by the ImUans cal to almost ts of the hills a durable red OEOLOGY. to?) Shores of tin- granite, and large masses of kav same substance are scat- tered over their surface. On an arm of Point Lake, forty-five miles due north of Fort Knterprisi", iht' rocks belong to the transition class. The ligiit blue coloured waters of (ireat Hear F^ake are very transparent, more especially in the vicinity of the primitive mountains of M'Tavish Jiay. A piece of white rag, wiien sunk, did not disa|)pear till it had descended to the depth of tiftcvn fathoms. 'I'iie surface of Hear Lake is not supposed to be 200 feet above the Arctic Sea, and as its (lei»th is much greater than that amount of feet, its bottom nmst consecjuently be below the level of the sea.* At tiie mouth of Dease's River, the hills are five or six hundred feet high, and are composed princij)ally, if not entirely, of dolomite, in horizontal strata. The northern shores of Bear Lake are low, and skirted by tmmerous shoals of limestone boulders. At the foot of the Scented Crrass Hill, a rivulet has made a section to the «lepth of 100 feet, and there shaly beds are seen interstratilied with thin layers of blackish-brown earthy-looking limestone, con- taining selenite and pyrites. CJlobular concretions of that stone, and of a poor clay ironstone, also occur in beds in the shale. The surfaces of the slate-clay were covered by an efflorescence of alum and sulphur, and many crystals of sulphate of iron lie at the bottom of the cliff, and several layers of plumose alum, half an inch in thickness, occur in the strata. At the base of Cireat Bear Mountain, the bituminous shale is interstratiHed with slate-clay, and Dr Richardson found embcilded in the former a single piece of brown coal, in which the fibrous structure of wood is ap})arent.t On the northern shore of Keith Bay, about four miles from Jiear Lake River, stands Fort Franklin, upon a small terrace, which is elevated about thirty feet above .ne lake. The bottom of the bay; wherever distinguishable, was ob- served to be sandy, and thickly strewed with rounded j)ri- mitive boulders of great size, which were particularly abun- dant near the river, — and the waters of the cape formed by Scented Grass Hill were also strewed with large s(juare * In M'Tavish Bay, near the sliore of Great Slave Lake, forty- live fathoms of line did not reacli the hottom. Some of the great lakes of Canada are sn[)posed to descend 300 feet below the " (K-ean's brim." •f" Apjxjodix to Franklin's Second Journey, p. fJ. '!E*r~"~- ilO NATI HAL IIISTOIIV. blocks of limestone. All these boulders must have been carried from the parent roeks by a current flowing from Uie east. 'I'wo varieties of granite which occur amonfr them, were recognised as forming abundant rocks at l"'ort Knterj)rise, which lies about 17(» miles south-east from M'Tavish Bay. The soil in the vicinity of Fort Franklin is sandy or gravelly, and covers to the (lepth of one or two feet a bed of clay of unknown thickness. This clav continues tirndy fro/en during the greater portion of the year, and the thaw seldom penetrates more than a couple of feet into the surface of the earth. Hear Lake River is about seventy miles long, from its origin in the lake till it falls into the Mackenzie, and its breadth is never less than l.>() yards, except at the rajiid. Sections made by the river generally present sand or clay, — the former probably proceeding from the disintegration of .1 friable gray sandstone, which occasionally shows itself in the more solid form, 'i'he walls of the rapid are about tliree miles long, and I'iO feet high. Thev 're composed isist of an of horizontal beds, the lower of whid earthy-looking stone, intermediate betwee tC-clay and sandstone, having interiorly a dull yellowish-gray colour. These beds are se})arated by thin slaty layers, of a sub- stance similar in appearance, but harder, which contain impressions of ferns, and from the debris at the bottom of the clilt' J)r Richardson gathered impressions of the !)ark of a tree (Icpidodendron) and some annnonites in a brown iron-shot sr.ndstone. These are regarded by M; Sowerby as of a ni:w species. They contain sulphati of barytes, and are supposed to be referable to some of tlie oolites near the Oxford clay. We may here notice the remarkable lignite formation of Mackenzie River. Flie formation wbicli constitutes its banks consists of wood-coal in various states, alternat- ing with beds of pipe-clay, potter's clay (occasionally bi- tuminous), slate-clay, gravel, sand, and friable sandstones, and occasionally with porcelain-earth. These strata arc usually horizontal, and as many as four beds of hgnite ai-e exposed in some places, of which the upper are above the highest river floods of present times. The lignite itself is pretty compact when recently detached; but it soon sj)hts into rhomboidal pieces, separable into more or less dehcate slaty portions. When burnt, it produces little smoke or flame, and leaves a brownish-red residuum, oF:oLnr,Y. 411 st have bccti Howing from occur umon;: rocks at Fort ith-east from Fort Franklin )th of one or s. This c'lay portion of the than a coui)le lonp;, from its ;cnzie, and its t at the rdpid- it sand or ehiy, isintegrationof ly shows itself ■apid are ahout , M-e composed Asist of an .tC'-elay and sh-}j;ray colour. /ers, of a sub- whieli contain t the bottom of lessions of the immonites in a .'{yarded by Mi" mtain sulphate ,ble to some of Irnite formation nch constitutes states, alternat- (ccasionally bi- Lble sandstones. Ihese strata are Ibeds of lignite ipper arc above The lignite jtached; but it lie into more or L it produces 1-red residuum. not one-tenth of the original bulk. IJut the smell is very fetid, resembhng that of phosphorus. It was found unfit for welding iron when used alone, but it sutiited when mixeg; tlieir centres are depressed, and are either marshy or oc- cupied by a lake. Their borders, however, are more ele- vated, and are well clothed by white spruce-trees. These, and whatever other trees are produced in the islands, suddenly cease to grow about latitude (iS"^ K)'. The famous Copper Mountains, so called, consist prin- cipally of trap rocks, which seemed to I)r Richardson to be imposed upon the new red sandstone, or the ficptz limestone which covers it. They rise to a height of eight or nine hundred feet above the level of the river, and pre- sent a softish outline at a dist^mce ; but on a nearer view they seem composed of ridges, many of which have pre- cipitous sides. The summits are stony and uneven. • Ibid. p. lU. 412 NATURAL HISTORY. The largest pieces of copper are found associated with prehnite, and the Indians are careful to search for ore wherever they observe ]neccs of the last-named mineral lying on the surface. The original repository or vein of copper ore does not appear to have been hitherto observed ; but judging from specimens picked up by our overland expeditions, it most probably traverses felspathose trap. Ice-chisels have been observed in the possession of the Esquimaux measuring twelve or fourteen inches long, and half an inch in diameter, formed of pure co^)per. Another range of trap hills occurs at the distance of ten miles to the northward of the Copper* I\Iountains. This range is about twenty miles from the Arctic Sea, and beyond it the country is very level, with a subsoil of light brownish-red sandstone. These desolate plain^ nourish only a coarse short grass, and the trees whicl had previously dwindled to scraggy clumps entirely dis- appear. At the mouth of the Co])permine River there occurs a low ridge of greenstone ; and from thence to Bloody Fall, which is a distance of about ten miles, the country is very level, with the exception of some ridges of trap, by wliich it is traversed. The channel of the river is sunk nearly 150 feet below the level of the surrounding country, and is bounded by cliffs of yellowish-white sand, and some- times of clay, beneath which beils of greenstone occasion- ally crop out. The islands in this quarter of the Arctic Sea are in- variably rocky. They present a remarkable uniformity of j.^.'pearance, and are very generally bounded by mural precipices of trap-rock clinkstone or claystone. liut the main shore prc^^ents a greater diversity. For sixty miles eastward of Coppermine River, the beach is low and gravelly, but towards Tree River the trap rocks reappear and form a steril and rocky coast. At Port Epworth the valleys were stony, and almost entirely destitute of herbage. The rocks observed were liver-brown clinkstone porphyry, with a few beds of earthy greenstone, and the same formation extends to the mouth of Wentzel's River, to the eastward of wdiich a projection of the coast fonns Cape liarrow. When Dr Richardson rounded this cape the weather was extremely foggy, but the rocks examined consisted of a beautiful admixture of red and gray granite, forming steep and craggy peaks which rose abruptly from GEOLOGY. 413 jociated with earch for ore imed mineral )ry or vein of ;rto observed ; our overland s})athose trap, session of the inches long, re co^iper. he distance of ?r Ivlountains. 16 Arctic Sea, vith a subsoil desolate plain- le trees whicl is entirely dis- there occurs a to Bloody Fall, country is very trap, by which is sunk nearly g country, and "d, and some- Istone occasion- >tic Sea are in- ible uniformity inded by mural [tone. But the ^r sixty miles Ich is low and rocks reappear l^ort F.p worth i\y destitute of •own clinkstone istone, and the entzel's Biver. the coast forms Inded this cape ■ocks examined id gray granite, abruptly from the water to the height of I.j(K) feet. At Detention Har- bour the granite hills terminate abruptly, or recede from the coast, giving place to less elevated strata of gneiss, in which beds of red granite are enclosed. A vein of galena was observed running through the gneiss for two hun- dred yards at the spot named in consequence Cralena Point.* A mass of indurated iron-shot slaty clay occurs on the western point of Moore's Bay, and the promontory which forms the eastern side of that bay is com})Osed of trap rocks and claystone porphyry, whose mural precipi- ces constitute the sides of narrow valleys, opening at either end towanis the sea. An iron-shot cHnkstone {)orphyry, with a columnar aspect, prevails from Moore's Bay to the entrance of Arctic Sound. The eastern shore of that sound is covered with grass, and scarcely exhibits any naked rock ; but the clinkstone porphyry reappears on Bankes' Peninsula, along with an earthy-looking green- stone, and forms as usual parallel ranges of mural precipice. On Barry's Island the trap rocks form cliffs from 60 to lliO feet high, superimposed on thick beds of indurated clay or marl. A red amygdaloidal rock, containing beautiful pebbles of carnelian, chalcedony, and embedded jaspers, was observed on the north side of the island. Trap rocks, for the most part greenstone, and sand- stone of the new red formation, characterize Sir James Gordon's Bay ; but to the north of Fowler's Bay the gneiss rea])pears, with beds of granite and hornblende gneiss. Hexagonal crystals of hornblende, above a foot long, were observed embedded in the gneiss near Point Evritt, and the islands in the offing consisted as usual of tlcetz traj) or porphyry. Cape Croker is composed of red sandstone, of which the debris forms a shelving and ut- terly barren shore. Grayish-whit sandstone, associated with or passing into slaty clay, was visible on the north- ern shore of ]Melville Sound, wherever the barren clayey soil was washetl away. Cliffs of greenstone, or of clay- stone porphyry, superimposeil on the flat strata, present- ed the appearance of islands, when seen from the opposite coast, as our exploring party entered the sound, and had the low connecting land been then visible, a tedious and unnecessary circumnavigation of the sound itself would have been saved. The coast exhibited the same appear- * Appendix to Franklin's First Journey, p. 531. 414 NATURAL HISTORY. ance as far as Point Turnajrain, the most eastern point attained by the overland exjiechtions. On a general view it ap])ears that the new red sand, stone formation prevails along tliose portions of the North American Arctic shores. " All the islands visited," says Dr Kichardson, " were formed of trap or porphyry be- longing to that formation ; and, judging from similarity of form, the rocks of the other islands belong to the same class. The gneiss formation is next in extent ; and, in- deed, it appears to run nearly parallel to the coast within the red sandstone from Cape Barrow, across Hood's liiver above Wilberforce Falls to the bottom of Bathurst's In- let, and from thence to Hope's Bay, on the western side of Melville Sound. The only foreign beds we observed in the gneiss were granite, perhaps (juartz-rock and hornblendic gneiss or syenite. We saw no clay or mica- slate, nor (hd we observe any formations intermediate between the gneiss and new red sandstone ; nor, except at Cape Barrow, where granite predominates^, any other formati'^n than the two just mentioned. Our opportu- nities for observation, however, Avcre not extensive ; the necessity of proceeding without delay limiting our botanical and geognostical excursions to the short period that was required to prepare breakfast or supper."* From Point Turnagain the party proceeded to Hood's River, which they traced to some distance. Near its mouth that river is from 100 to 300 yards in width, and is bounded by steep high banks of clay, reposing on floetz rocks. At Wilberforce Falls, which are six or seven miles above the second rapid, the river makes a striking descent of about 2.50 feet into a chasm, the walls of which consist of light-red felspathosesandotone, belonging, as Dr Rich- ardson supposes, to the old red sandstone formation, or that which lies under coal, and occasionally alternates with transition rocks.t A short distance above these falls the gneiss '" rmation appears, and produces hills precisely similar to .hose about Fort Enterprise. On quitting Hood's River our explorin;^ '^-^rty ascended from the valley through which it flo^ , .w d entered upon an even, clayey, and very barren c i«^ri c, partially covAed by shallow lakes. This plain country continued nearly as far as C^racroft's River, where the gneiss reappeared. Apjiondix to Franklin's First Jonrney, p. 533. -j- Ibid. p. 634. r.KOLOGV. 415 astern point w red sand- af the North isited," says (orphyry be- im similarity r to the same nt ; and, in- coast witliin Mood's River athurst's In- western side we observed rtz-rock and clay or mica- intermediate ; nor, except ;es, any other Our opportu- xtensive; the y our botanical jriod that was led to Hood's e. Near its in width, and jsing on floetz or seven miles riking descent which consist ;, as Dr Rich- formation, or illy alternates »ove these falls hills precisely On quitting led from the ipon an even, V covA'ed by lied nearly as [s reappeared, t Ibid. p. 534. and presented those bleak hills and precipices so charac- teristic of the Barren (rrounds. The gneiss formation was observed to continue without essential ciiange to Ob- struction Rapid, between Providence and Point Lakes, where it united with the Fort Enterprise tlistrict formerly alluded to. The preceding geognostical details, and others into the consideration of which we cannot here enter, render it ap})arent that the general distribution and connexion of the hills and mountain-masses of these northern regions are nearly the same as geologists have observed to chiu racterize similar materials in other portions of the earth. The primitive rocks occur in their usual relations ; and gneiss, attended by an extremely scanty vegetation, ap- pears to be the most extensively distributed, (iranite was the next in frequency ; after which may be placed mica- slate. Clay-slate and protogine were the least abundant. The granite of Cape Barrow was intersected by veins of augite greenstone of the same descri})tion as those which occur in the granite districts of (treat Britain, and the pri- mitive rocks in general were found to be traversed by veins of felspar, quartz, and granite. The transition rocks, consisting principally of clay-slate and gray wa eke, bore a strong resemblance to those in Dumfries-shire, — a fact whicii did nut fail to attract the attention of Dr Richardson, himself a native of that dis- trict. In regard to the secondary formations, the facts ob- served by Dr Richardson show the existence — First, Of the old red sandstone, or that which lies under coal, and occasionally alternates with transition rocks : Second, Of the coal formation, whicli was ascertained to occur in certain districts of Mackenzie River, and towards the Rocky Mountains : Third, Of the new red or variegated sandstone, an important formation of considerable extent, which contained, as it is known to O.o in the Old World, p^ypsum and beds of salt, or of muriatiferous clay, afford- ing saline materials for the impregnations of the salt springs which issue from it: Fourth, Of the secondary limestone belonging to that vast deposite which lies above the new red sandstone, and beneath chalk, and which oc- cupies extensive tracts in Britain and other parts of Eu- rope : Fifth, Of the secondary trap and porphyry rocks, 416 NATURAL HISTORY. in the composition and character of which one of the most interesting features is undouhtedly the frequent oc- currence of native copper, both among the Copper Moun- tains themselves, anil along the Arctic shore. The alluvial deposites consist, as usual, of sand, gravel, rolled blocks, boulder-stones, and the debris of various rocks. We may conclude by observing in the words of Dr Richardson, to whom we are deeply indebted for the information presented in this volume, that the foregoing details make it manifest " that in the regions we traversed the rocks of the primitive, transition, secondary, and allu- vial classes, have the same generpl composition, structure, position, and distribution, as in .,ther parts of America which have been examined ; and as these agree in all re- spects with the rock formations in Europe and Asia, they may with propriety be considered as universal formations — parts of a grand and harmonious whole — the production of infinite wisdom." " Stand still and behold the wondrous works ov God, — the wondrous works of him which is perfect in knowledge." " Remember that thou magnify his work which jiex BEHOLD. Every 3ian may see it ; men may behold it AFAR OFF." " O Lord, how manifold are thy works ! in wisdo^i HAST THOU MADE THEM ALL : THE EARTH IS FULL oF THY RICHES." "Before the mountains were brought forth, or ever thou hadst formed the earth and the world. even FROM EVERLASTING TO EVERLASTING, THOU ART God." 1 one of the J frequent oc- opper JVIoun- ' sand, gravel, fis of various the words of lebted for the the foregoinji IS we traversed lavy, and allu- ion, Structure, ts of America igree in all re- md Asia, they ,1 formations — ;he production R,OUS WORKS OF JII IS PEUFECT )11K WHICH MEN lAY BEHOLD IT KS ! IN WISDOM IS FULLOE THY RHT FORTH, OB D THE WORLIJ. NG, THOU AK'J APPENDIX REMARKS ov A LATE MEMOIR OF SEHASTIAX CAHOT WIT It A VINDICATION OF lUCIIAUD HAKLl'YT. " Florcat Ilistoria nritannic.i, rrconlis authcnt'icisqur oxpromatur. Scribatur leiitc, mature, oi(t;iiatt', siiu-frf, dilucidc, siiU' |iartiuni studio, sine piavo consilio, sine oniiii \ ill afti't'tu viris liti ratis uuligiiu." M >')ip\, D/sccptatij Kj)istularis Dc Ma^nt) Ratido ■Scucairii. Tin: reader is already aware that in the present volume, the Discovery of North America, in the reign of Henry \T I., has been exclusively ascribed to Joim Cabot, a Venetian, who had settled as a mercliant at Bristol. The raithor of a late work* has attributed this noted extension of geogra- phical knowledge solely to the subjcci of his bi()gra]:)hy, Se- bastian Cabot, the son of John. According to him, it was Sebastian who projected the expedition in which the disco- very was made, — it was Sebastian vrho conducted the expe- dition, — it is doubtful whether John Cabot accompanied the voyage at all, — and it is certain, if he did, it was simi)ly as a merchant who traded on his capital. The biogra- pher has brought forward his arguments in support of this theory, in the tiftii chapter of his work, entitled * Memoir ot" Sebastian Cal)(>t. ^2c 418 APPKNDIX. Comparative Agency of John and Sebastian Cabot ; and it is in the course of these arguments that he has made an attack upon the integrity and honesty of Richard Hakluyt, a writer to whom the history of maritime dis- covery is under the deepest obligations. These two points, therefore, — the discovery of North America and the credit due to tlie evidence of Hakluyt, — must necessarily be con- sidered in conjunction ; and we trust we shall convince every impartial reader of the accuracy of our assertion, that .John (Jabot was the discoverer, and that the attack upon Hakluyt is perfectly unfounded. Before, however, proceeding to the more immediate sub- ject of inquiry, we may be permitted to say, that, although it becomes our duty to point out repeated and material errors, and in some instances considerable injustice com- mitted by the biographer of Cabot, we are anxious to avoid that peculiar asperity which he has unnecessarily ming- led with a subject so remote that it may surely be ap- proached in a spirit of great calmness and impartiality. We wish to employ no expression which may give a mo- ment's unnecessary pain to the biographer. His Memoir of Cabot, as may be seen from the references to it in the course of this volume, has been frequently of use to us. Although rather a piece of biographical and historical criticism than a pure biography, it is a meritorious work ; it points out to the reader some recondite sources of in- formation, — its deductions and arguments are often acute and ingenious, — and, confused and deficient as it is in its arrangement, it contains occasional passages which are elo- (juently written. But it is impossible not to regret that there is infused into the whole book a more than ordinary proper, tion of that bitter and querulous spirit which, in a greater or less degree, seems inseparable from the lucubrations of theantiquary, — that the author has poured abuse, contempt, and ridicule upon those who have fallen into errors, which be sometimes has, and at other times imagines he has detect- ed, — and that he is unscrupulous in imputing unfair and ungenerous motives to those who little deserve such an ac cusation. Robertson, Forster, Henry, Campbell, Southey, Barrow, and other able writers, are attacked in unmea- sured terms, as the arch propagators of all that is errone- ous and superficial on the subject of maritime discovery ; and our excellent friend Richard Hakluyt, who has slept in VINJ)ICATI(>V OF IIAKLVY r. 119 , Cabot ; and he has made of Richard maritime dis- ;se two points, and the credit ssarily be con- 5hall convince assertion, that le attaclc upon nmediate sub- that, although I and material injustice com- nxious to avoid ;essarily ming- surely be ap- d impartiaUty. nay give a mo- . His Memoir ces to it in the y of use to us. and historical ritorious work ; ! sources of in- are often acute nt as it is in its ;s which are elo- ■egret that there irdinarypropor- Ich, in a greater lucubrations of [buse, contempt, ;o errors, which jeshehasdetect- jting unfair and Tve such an ac- pbell, Southey, :ed in unmea- that is errone- ime discovery ; who has slept in an honoured grave for upwards of two centuries, is resusci- tated to be treated only with more unsparing severity. We proceed now to the discussion of the ])oint in (juestion, — Who Discovered North America ? — The tact, then, tiiat it was John (^abot who projected, fitted out, and con- ducted the expedition by which this discovery was made rests on evidence so conclusive, that it is difficult to ima- gine how any impartial inquirer can resist its force. lurst, There is the original commission or letters-pa- tent in Rymer, vol. xii. p. oOS, in which John Cabot is evidently the principal person intrusted with the under- taking. His three sons, Lewis, Sebastian, and Sanchez, are indeed included with him in the patent ; but it is allowed on all hands, that neither Lewis nor Sanchez accompa- nied the voyage, and Sebastian, although he undoubtedly went along with his father, could not then have been more than twenty, — an age excluding the idea of his either originating or conducting the enterprise. Secondly, We have the language of the second patent, dated the 8d February 14-98, in which the letters are di- rected to John Cabot alone, and he is empowered to sail with his ships to the land and isles of late found bij the mid John, in the king's name and commandment, — a piece of evidence which, even if it stood single and un- supported, appears to be decisive of the question. Thirdli/, We have the inscription under the contem- porary portrait of Sebastian Cabot, painted by Holbein, in which he is described as the son of the Venetian, Sir John Cabot, who was the first discoverer of the New Land, " Primi Inventoris Terra? Novae sub Henrico VI L Vngliffi Rege ;" and in the Fourth place, A proof of the same fact is to be found in the inscription by Clement Adams upon the Map of America, which he engraved after a drawing of Sebastian Cabot's, and in the lifetime of this navigator. In this inscription, as already more minutely pointed out,* the principal place is given to the father, John Cabot, and the son is mentioned, as it appears to us, not as command- ing the ships or having originated the voyage, but simply as accompanying the expethtion. Having gone thus far, we are now ready to enter upon * Supra, pp. 21, 22. Vli) APPT:\ni\'. tlieinvcslipation of tlie.iifriiinonts urged ))y tlicbiogrnplur in f'aNour of tlie claim wiiicli lie has set uj) i'or Sebastian as tliesolc discoverer ; and here we nuiy remark, that in the classification of his e\i(!ence he has followed a method which is certainly n(!t th.e hest calculated for the manifesta. tion of truth. lie first arranges what he denominates tin- proofs in su|)})ort of the father; hut those which he enu- merates fu'.sf, arid which alone lie discusses with minute attention, are the weakest that could he selected, and sue!) as no one who carefully weighs them would place much reliance on ; whilst the unanswerable evidence is brought in last Avilh extreme }>revity^ and dismissed with scarce any observation. " The various items of evidence," says he, " Avhich arc suj.posed to establish the ])re\ ailing personal agency of John ("abot, may be ranked thus: — " 1. 'J'he alleged statement of Robert Fabyan. " y. 'IMie language of more recent writers as to the character of the father. " 3. The appearance of his name in the map cut bv Clement Adams, and also in the patents. " As to the first," he continues, " the authority usually referred to is found in llakluyt, vol. iii. p. 9, — 'A note of Seliastian Cabot's first discoverie of ])art of the Indies, taken out of the latter part of Roliert Fal>yan's Chronicle. v.ot hitherto ]n-inted, which is in the cust(;(lie of M. John Stow, a diligent })reserver of anti(iuities. In tlie 1.'^ yeere of K. Henry the 7 (by mcanes of one John Ca- bot, a \'enetian, which made himselfe very expert and ciinning in the knowledge of the circuit of the world, and islands of the same, as by a sea-card and other demoii- stratioi;s reasonable he shewed), tlie kinu; caused to man and victual! a ship at ]5ristovv, to search for an island which he said he knew well was rich, and rejdenished with great commodities ; which shippc, tlius manned and victiialletl, at the king's costs, divers merchants of London vcnti;red in her small stocks, being in her, as chief patron, the said Venetian. And in the company of the said ship, sailed also out of liristow, three or foure small shijs, fraught with sleight and grosse marchandises, as course cloth, ca))s. laces, })oints, and other trifles, and so de])arted from Hrb- tow in the beginning of May, of whom, in this maior's time, returned no titlings.' " iirf*^*^- i^<^%-»A*V-#f)!«««f^-' y tlichiograpluM- ir,r Sel)astian as lark, that in the l(,wc(l a inethcd )r the iTianif'esta. (Iciuniiinates tlie L' which lie enu- ses with miimtt' 'k'ctcd, and sncli )iiM place iTUicli (lence is hrouj^lit ssed witli scarce , he, " wliich arc rsonal a}i;ency oi Fahyan. ,'iiters as to the the map cut hy authority usually p. }), — ' A note irt of the Indies, yan's Chronicle, die of ]M. John In the U one Jolm Ca- ,ery expert ar.d ' the world, and 1 otlier demon- caui-ed to man 1 for an island ar.d re})lenished uis manned and lants of London as chief ]nitrcn, of the said ship, all shij'S, fraught ourse cloth, caps, arted from Hri?- , in this niaior'> VI.NDICATIO.N OF IIAKLl vr. 4'il This is the passa;j;e wliich the author of the Memoir has accusL'd Ilakluyt of pervertiii}.:; ; and, instead of givinpj it simj)ly as it was furnished hy Stow, — of interpolatinjj; the name of iJohn ( ahot. Nor is it difiicult to see how he was led to make tliis accusation. It was necessary, in snp[)ort of ids views, to sliow that this allej^ed .statement of l''abyan contained no allusion to John, hut actually sui)p()rted the claim of Sjhastian Cahot: hut this could not he done if Ilakluyt has given it fairly; and in this way the biogra- pher, animated with zeal for his theory, was imperceptibly drawn on to attack the integrity of this writer. Now, he- fore considering so grave an accusation against Ilakluyt, we have one introductory remark t;) make upon this (pio- tation from Fabyaii. It is certain that it alludes to the second voy;\ge made to North America hy Si-bastian (■abot, in the year 1 WH, and not to the first, in which that coii.itry was discovered. Of this the passage con- tains int.'rnal evidence which is perfectly conclusive. The first ^'>yage took place in the twelfth year of Henry \II. Tliis in the thirteenth. The first voyage was at the sole exiiense of the adventurers. Of this the king bore the expense. The first voyage could allude to no former discovery. This alludes to an island wliich had l)een already discovered. To (piote the passage, there- fore, as evidence in favour of John ('al)ot's ihscovery, which has certainly been done hy some modern writers, argues a rajiid and superficial examination of its contents, ('ertainly Ilakluyt tloes not cite it with this view; hut includes it, on the contrary, amongst diose portions of evidence, those testimonies, as he calls them, in which the sole glory of the earliest voyage to North America is given to Sebastian Cahot.* Ad this may be true, says the memorialist, but it does not exculpate Ilakluyt. I do not accuse him of citing the passage as a i)roof in favour of John Cabot — hut of altering it so as to mislead other authors: He has " perverted" the passage, and has suf- fered the evidence of his " guilty ileetl" to lie about, so tis to furnisii the means of his own conviction. Such is the charge advanced against Ilakluyt ; and never, we will venture to say, was there a more unfounded ac- cusation^ as will appear when it comes to be examined, and Hakluyt's Vi)ya^esj edition KJUO, vol. iii. j). 4 — \), inclusive. i2y APPK.NDIX. yet the ara:iiiTicnt of the })io}j:rapher is ingenious, and it requires some attention to detect its fallacy. The object in the whole matter, it will he ohservcd, was twofold ; first, to show that Robert Fabyan, a conteni. porary autlior, ascribes the H9 standing thus : — " In the 1.3 yeerr of King Ilenrie the \ 11. hy means of one John Cubot. A Venetian, which made himself very expert," c'^'c, the rest of the sentence being the same as in I.jS'J. Here then, says he, is manifest inter])olation and dishonesty ; the original passage from Fabyan has been altered ; Ilakluyt, in 1.>H9, does not give it in the same terms as in l.)H2. Before, however arriving at so strong and uncharitable a conclusion, it nmst strike every reader that the original passage, either as it stands in Fabyan, or as it stood in the extract furnished by Stow from Fa- byan, ought to be carefully examined. Till the passage, as it is given by Hakluyt, is conij)ared with one or other of these, it is [jcrfectly evident that no charge of alteration or interpolation can be made good against him. Now, the original chronicle of Fabyan, from which Stow took the passage, is lost — and the biographer does not pretend that he has discovt red in the manuscripts of Ilakinyt the original passage, as extracted by Stow, and sent to this writer — but he endeavours to supply it in a very singular manner. In speaking of Ilakluyt's alleged per- version of the passage, as sent by Stow, he observes : — " Fortunately, we are not left to mere conjecture. In 1()0.5 appeared Stow's own ' Annals.' The simplicity and good faith of this writer are so well known, as well as his intense reverence for whatever bore the stamp of antiquity, that we have no fear of his having committed what in his eyes would have been sacrilege, by changing one syllable of the original. Let it be remembered then, that Hakluyt rehes exclusively on what he obtained from Stow ; and in reading the following passage from the An- nals, we tind what doubtless passed into Hakluyt's hands before it was submitted to his perilous correction. It occurs at p. HOt of the edition of ICOo, and at p. 481i of that of 1631. * This year one Sebastian (Jahoto, a Genoa's sonne borne in Bristol, professing himself to be expert in the knowledge of the circuit of the world, and islands of the same, as by his charts and other reasonable demonstrations he shewed, caused the king to man and victual a ship,' ike. The rest corresponds with the pas- sage in Hakluyt. * « * Thus," continues the biogra- pher, " we have the best evidence that the contemporary writer, whoever he may have been, made not the slightest Ui APPKiNDIX. allusion to tlie father. Hacoii, Speed, 'riumuus, t*\:c'., id! furnish the same stateineiit."* Sueh is the passage from the Memoir of Cahot ; and thus it apj)ears that the whole of this attaek u[)()ii llakluyt rests upon a faet which the l)io};rapher iina}i;ines he has j)rove(l, hut which in truth is nothing else tiian a piece of the merest and the most vague ])resumption — namely, that Stow furnished ilaklnyt, in l.iH'i, with an extract from Fahyan, which, when he himself proceeded, alxnit eighteen years after, to compile his Annals from a long list of writers, wiiose names he has given us in his ])refatory pages, he so scru|)idously cojjied, that we are entitled to take it as it stands in the said Annals, and argue upon it as the identi- cal passage contained in the lost chronicle of Fahyan. liut this is not merely gratuitous assumption. There is, we think, strong evidence to show that Stow, in compo- sing his various works, did not, u|)on the point in (juestion, — the (hscovery of America, — consult the jnanuscri[)t of Fahyan, altliough lie affirms it to he in Jiis ])ossession, hut in the multiplicity vi' his authorities Jiad overlooked it altogether. 'I'he first Sunnnary of Chronicles was puh- lished hy tl\is industrious antiquary in l.Sdj. A new edition was give: iv l.iT.'i, and again another edition in 1.598. His excellent work entitled ,i Survey of liondon a,i\C AW'stminster was also puhlished ii) loJJS ; and it is a remarkable -i -cunistance, and one which militates strongly against the hv^othesis of the biographer, that although in the I'^t of i) is auLhe;\ties prefixed to the edition of his Chronicles in l.iT.'J, and to the Survey of London, there is express mention of the manuscript hy Fahyan, still, in neither of these works is there any allusion made, which we can discover, to the voyages of the ( 'abots, or the dis- covery of America. His work entitled Flores Historiarum, or Annals of England, was published in IGOO, and here, for the tirst time, is the passage rej:,ar(l.'ng the voyage to America introduced ; in Avhich, as we have already seen, Sebastian Cahot is called " a Gc'oa's .y u." But it is to be recollected that Robert Fahyan was a contem- porary of Sebastian Cabol; that he was a rich merchant and alderman of London; and the probability is, that he was either j)erscnally acquainted with so Illustrious .^lenioir of (libotj p. 14. •^-in .1li.r««»*. lUiUlUS, ^-c, illl 'ahot ; and thus ui)()ii llakluyt iias, he does not api)ear to havee.xamined Fabyan's treatise u[)()n the subject of Ame- rica, or Cabot; and becoming old (^he was now in Ins seventy-sixth year), and failing in his memory, it appears extremely j)rol)able tliat he had contented himself with a reference to the volume of l^aiupiette. So far, therefore, from admitting the fact which has been hastily, and without any su^Hcieiit ground, assumed by the biogra[)lier, that the passage in Stow's AnnaLs regarding Sebastian Caliot may be co.isidered the very extract from Fahyan communicated to ilakluyt, we con- tend that a minute examination of Stow's historical labours proves that, in composing his Annals, he had omitted to considt the Chronicle of Fahyan, and had copied some less authentic writer — probably the Ciironicle of Lan- ijuette. \\'hat follows from this? — First, the whole elaborate accusation of guilty pervers" on of the extract from Fahyan, so unceremoniously advaiiced against llak- luyt, falls completely to the ground. Sjconclly, the bio- grapher's .su])j)06Cfl passage from Fahyan, a contemi)orary, turns out to be nothing more than aciui'tation from Stow, and consequently, the assertion that tlie former has de- scribed Sebastian Cabot as the sole projector and executor of the voyage in which North America was discovered, is perfectly unwarrantable. The original inanuscript of Fah- yan, as we have already stated, is lost ; t'le origiiial extract from it furnished by Stow to llakluyt is also lost; and without a minute examination of these two documents, * Barrett's Bristol, pp. li{."», IJIi. I take it for ^nantcd that this uulhor imist have seen the passage whitli lie (piotes ; hut la tiie only e;iition of LaiKjiiette's Chroiiieh' which I have luul an opportunity of examining tiiere is no such jjassai^^e. 426 APPENDIX. the biographer was not entitled to wound the fair reputa- tion of this excellent writer, 1 • whom the history of naval discovery is under so many chl'^jations, by charges without proof, and innuendoes arising mainly out of the errors which he himself has committed. But the biographer will perhaps contend that he has at least made out one fact against Hakluyt — namely^ that in 15H<) he alteied the passage from the form in which he gave it in 1582; an(l is not this, says he^ a dis- honest and guilty deed ? To this we answer, — and we think it impossible for him to controvert the assertion, — that, admitting the fact, there is no gu'.lt or dishonesty in the case. The vitiation of the text imputed here to Ilak- luyt may be considered either as a perversio)i of the real truth, historically considered, or of the individual passage, or of both. First then, it is to be remarked, that Ilakluyt cannot be accused of dishonesty historically speaking, because, in the passages in question, he has stated nothing but the truth. It has been already provetl that the extract com- municated by Stow relates solely to the second voyage of 1 198, planned and fitted out by John ( abot the Vene- tian, and conducted afterwards by his son Sebastian ; and the alteration of the note, from the words " a Vene- tian," used in 1.582, to the words, " one John Cabot, a Venetian," used in 1.58!), only makes it speak with more clearness and accuracy. But, in the second place, Hak- luyt, says the biographer, has perverted and altered a quotation. There might be some appearance of plausi- bility in this accusation, if Hakluyt had given the pas- sage in dispute as a quotation, and had thus bound him- self down to the common usage which compels an authoi in such a case to insert it word for word. But he does hot do so. He warns the reader that he is perusing not a quotation, but a " note made up by him from an extract communicated by Stow, and taken out of the latter part of Robert Fabyan's Chronicle, not hitherto printed ;" and hav- ing done so, he considered himself at liberty to correct that note, by inserting in it any additional information which he had accpiired. In 1.58'2, he thought that the words, " a Genoa's son, born in Bristol," could not apply to Sebastian Cabot, with whom they v'ere coupled, and he inserts the words, " a \'enetian," dvopping the name altogether, in pip »ip"ipw"!ipiii«np the fair reputa- liistory of naval charges without it of the errors '11(1 that he has kluyt— namely, ini the form in , says he, a (Hs- nswer, — and we the assertion, — or dishonesty in :ed here to Ilak- ^sion of the real lividual passage, Ilakluyt cannot eaking, hecause. nothing but the he extract com- i second voyage Cabot the Vene- 1 Sebastian ; and vords " a Vene- 3 John Cabot, a speak with more ond place, Hak- 1 and altered a ranee of plausi- |l given the pas- luis bound him- nipels an author I. But he does s perusing not a from an extract the latter part of ted;"andhav- ;y to correct that brmation which |at the words, " a ply to Sebastian lid he inserts the altogetiier. In VINDICATION OF HAKLl'VT. 427 l.jftf), he had probably become acquainted with the second patent, which ascribed the plai; ot ti.e expedition solely to John Cabot ; and he, therefore, added to his note the words, " .Fohn Cabot, a Venetian," where he sj^c'aks of the person who had caused the king to man and victual a ship. Even, therefore, if we were to admit, which we do not, that a discre])ancy had y)een made out between the passages in Hakluyt and the real extract from the Ciironiele of Robert Fabyan, we sh(,uld be entitled to repel any accu- sations against his honesty, founded upon a basis so ex- tremely erroneous. 'I'he memorialist now comes to the consideration of the proof as to the "^ personal agency of the father in the dis- covery of North America, derived from the inscription on the map cut by Clement Adams, which Ilak'uyt states is to be seen in her Majesty's Privy (iallery at \Vestminster, and in many other ancient merchants' houses."* And here he commences his examination by another unfair innuendo against this writer. " We approach the statement of Hakluyt," says he, " with a conviction that he would not Iiesitate for a moment to interpolate the name of John Cabot, if he thought that thereby was secured a better correspondence with the original patent." I have con- victed him (it is thus he argues) of interpolating the quotation furnished by Stow from Fabyan, and there is a strong presum))tion he would not hesitate to alter the in- scription also. " It would, certainly," he remarks. " require less audacity to associate here the name of the father, as it is found in the patent, than to do that of which Hak- luyt has already been convicted."t To this indirect insi- nuation it may be calmly replied, that, as the iirst at- tempt to affix guilt upon Hakluyt has been shown to be a total failure, the inscription ought to be received from his hands with perfect confidence that we read it in his work exactly as it was copied by him from the original map of Sebastian Cabot, cut by ( 'lement Adams. From the man- ner in which it is given, first in the original Latin, and then translated, it professes to be an exact quotation ; and even were Hakluyt as guilty a person as the biographer represents him, it might be contended that he would have paused before he committed an act of interpolation, of * See the proof stated. Supra, p. 21. ■j- Memoir of Cabot, p. 48. 1,^S APPENDIX. which tlie orij;inal in the Queen's (iallery, and in many ancient merchants' houses^ must have instantly convicted liim. liut to ])roceed. Ilavinp; thus prepared us to expect an audacious akeration, the hio^rapiier endeavours to show that those persons wlio had seen Sei)astian (■al)()t's charts and maps, introcUice no allusion to tlie father, and he leaves the reader to make the inevitahle inference ap;ainst Ilakiuyt'slionesty. This writer has (juoted an inscription on Sel)astian Cahot's map, which attrihutes the discovery to ,l()hn ('al)()t. liLt Sir Humphrey (Jilhert, who had seen Sel)astian's charts, makes no allusion to the father ; and Richard W'illes, who speaks familiarly of the map of this naviuator, does not mention .John ; therefore, it is left to the reader silently to infer that Ilakluyt may have interpolated the name of the father. A plain statement of tlie fact will put all this down in an instant: — Ilakluyt has narrated in the clearest terms that tlie map to which he alludes, and from which he copies tlie inscrip- tion, was enii;ra\ed hy Clement Adams; and the lerniS of the inscription show that it (the inscri[)tion) v.r.s added by the artist. Sir Humphrey (iili)ert, on the contrary, just as clearly states, that the documents to whidi he alludes, are "charts of Sebastian Cabot, wliich are to be seen in tlie Queen Majesty's Privy (iallery at A\'hitehall," — evi- dently meanint^ the original charts drawn by this sea- man, and presented to the queen;* and ^\'ilies does not mention the engraveil ma[) at all, but s})eaks of a table of Sebastian Cabot, which the father of Lady Warwick liad at Cheynies.t The argument, therefore, or rather the unfavourable inference created in the mind of the reader by the biogra[)her, which derives its force from t'.ie supposition, that Sir Humphrey Cilbert and llichard W'illes refer to the same document as Hakluyt, namely, the engraved map by ('lenient Adams, falls completely to the ground. Jf there had been any account of the lirst discovery on the charts alluded to by (iilliert, and the '' table" menti')ned by W'iiies, and in this account the father's name had not appeared, there might be some presumption against the elder Cabot ; but the writer of * Hakluyt, vol. iii. p. 1(>. -|- llistoiv (if Tia\c'l in the West and luist Indirs, \u 2\VL Ilakluyt, vi)l. iii. pp. ^-J, 2t». VINDICATION OF HAKMYT, ■V29 ami in many itly convicted s to expect an ours to show Liibot's ch;\rts ithcr, and lie erence ap;ainst an inscription the discovery ert, who hatl to the father ; y of the map n ; therefore, that llakluyt her. A plain in an instant : s that the map es the inscri})- il the ternis of n) v/as added the contrary, lich/u' alludes, to be seen in tehall,"' — evi- lly this sea- lies does not -:s of a table ady Warwick ore, or rather mind of the ts force from and Itichard uyt, namely, ct)!npletely to t of the lirst )ert, and the account the lit be some tlie writer of ^p;i Indies, i>. 2^-. the Memoir does not pretend there was any sucli account or inscription on the charts and the table ; and to infer, from the silence of (iilbert and W'illes, either that llakluyt had altered the inscription, or that .fohn Cabot could not have been t!ie oriL:;inal discoverer, is a reniarkaijle instance of va. \'et the biogra})her has committed the singuhu- blunder of sun])osiug that it was the cxtrdct from the map, and not the ina[) itself, which was hungup in the Privy (rallery at ^\'estminster, and that it may be inferred that llakluyt had never seen the eriginal ina[). " From the stress," says he, " laid by llak- luyt and Purchas on tha rxtnict Iiidh/ up in the Privy (iallery at A\'hitehall, we may infer that they had never seen the original maj)."* In this sentence there occurs ;i second error, in imagining that both llakluyt and Pur- chas refer to the same document. The allusion by Pur- chas, t however, is to e ■ totally diilerent. This author refers not to any extract taken from the maj) cut by Cle- ment Adams, but to " the words of a great rnaj) in his Majesty's Privy (lallery, of which S^-bastian Cabot isoften therein called the author, and his ])ictin-e is therein drawn," wOiich iiiap, Purchas adds in the margin, " some say was taken out of Sir Sebastian Cabot's map by Clement Adams;" a rentence pro\ing, beyond a doubt, tliat these writers allude to different works, — llakluyt to the map of Clement Adams, Purchas to a later one, suj)posed by some auiliors to be coj)ied from it. Lastly, in a succeed- ing sentence,;}; the author of the Memoir, when he ha- MtM'.ioir of C'ahut, j). .'•'_!. i- I'ur('liti.s, vol. ill. i: Moinoir (if Cabot, [i. .»2. i). n(i7. 430 APPKNniX. zards the conjecture that the map hy Adams was exe- cuted after ('abot's death, and thfrefore without any com- munication from liim, again widely errs from the trutli; for had lie consulted Purchas he would have found that tlie map hy Adams was puhlished in 1.5i9.* Thus, in a sentence which occupies the short space of seven lines, tliree errors, and these of no trivial importance, are com- mitted. The first error is material ; because it inevitably leads the reader to believe that Ilakluyt is only giving an extract from an extract, whereas he is giving an extract from an original which he had seen. The second error is also important ; because it would induce us to infer that l*urchas and Ilakluyt resolve into one and the same wit- ness, whereas Purchas quotes a separate and additional testimony ; for, it is to be observed, that, on a map en- graved probably some time in the reign of James VI., there was copied the same inscription as in the early map in 1.549 ; from which we are entitled to conclude that, in the interval, nothing had transpired to invalidate the truth of the inscription. Lastly, the third error is most mate- rial of all, because its effect is to lead us to consider the Laiin inscription copied by Ilakluyt from the map by Cle- ment Adams as of little or no weight in evidence, instead of which it is, as has already been shown in the text,t as nearly as possible efjuivalent to a declaration of Sebastian Cabot himself. 'i'he laboured endeavour to get rid of the overpower- ing evidence of the inscription, by impeaching the accu- racy and integrity of the copy furnished by Hakluyt, is thus singularly unsuccessful ; and having failed in this point, the author of the Life of ( "abot passes over altogether the proof which it contains. This, we think, may be taken for a silent admission that, if correctly given, it proves that John Cabot was the discoverer ; and we shall not fa- tigue the reader by a re})etition of the arguments given in the text, only reminding him that it is there shown that the inscription was written, probably from the informa- tion communicated, either by Sebastian, or by some per- sons who accompanied the voyage, and that the map wliere it occurs must have been often seen by this navigator. In his examination of the proofs of the personal agency Purchas, vol. iii. p. b*U7. -|- Supra, p. 23. •WffSprTTWP' ms was exe- out any com- m the truth ; e found that Thus, in a seven Hues, ice, are com- ; it inevitably Illy giving an iig an extract second error s to infer that he same wit- id additional :)n a map en- James VI., the early map :lude that, in late the truth s most mate- ) consider the L' map by Cle- lence, instead the text,t as of Sebastian overpower- ig the accu- luyt, is thus in this point, together the nay be taken n, it proves shall not fa- 'Hts given in 3 shown that le informa- )y some per- e map where avigator. onal agency VINDICATION OF IIAKLUYT, Ul \, p. 23. of iTohn (y'abot, the biographer now arrives at the appear- ance of his name in the letters-patent granted by the king. These interesting documents, from their priority of dato and the importance of their evidence, every impartial inquirer would, we think, have ranked first ; but he at once tissigns them the last place, and passes them very liglitly over. With the substance of these royal letters the reader is already acquainted ;* and it is here sufficient to re- peat that the commission, in virtue of which the first voy- age of 11-97 was undertaken, during which North Ame- rica was discovered, is granted to John Cabot and his three sons, whilst the second commission of Ii9S is not only grantetl to .fohn Cabot alone, but, alluding to the voyage already made, describes him as the sole discoverer, " giving him permission to lead his ships to the land and > files of late, foiuid hi/ the -said John in the king's name, and by his command." To esca})e from this clear and unanswerable assertion in a document whose authenti- city is higher than that of any other which can be pro- duced, the memorialist, trembling for his favourite Sebas- tian, is driven to some very desperate and amusing expe- dients. He first asserts, that the appearance of the father's name in the first commission or patent does not prove tliat he embarked in either of the expeditions. Xow, undoubtedly, if the first patent stood alone, the father's name in that deed would not conclusively prove that he conducted the first voyage, although a strong pre- sumption that he did so might fairly be founded upon it ; but it is evident the two patents, in estimating the evi- dence, must be taken together, and how does the biogra- pher get rid of the second, which, in language neither to be evaded nor misunderstood, distinctly asserts the fact of the discovery by the said John, and by John only ; for no other name but that of the father appears in the deed .'* The extraordinary theory by which he attempts to elude its evidence will best be given in his own words. " The second patent," says he, " is to the father alone. If we seek a reason for this departure from the original arrange- ment, it may be conjectured that some of the sons chose to give a different direction to a parental atlvance and their personal exertions ; and that the head of the family tliought fit to retain subject to his own discretionary dis- * Supra, pp. 20, 24. 2 132 APPENDIX. pcsal the proposed investment of liis remaining capital. It is said tiiat one of" the sons settled at \'eniee and the otlier at (Jenoa. The recital of tlie discovery hy the fa- ther woidd, of course, ])e stated, under the circnn^stances, as the consideration of the second patent in his favour. An- other reason for the intnxhiction of the father's name con- currently at first with his sons', and afterwards exclusive- ly, may perlia])s he found in the wary character of the king, wliose own ])ecuniary interests were involved in the result. lie might he anxious thus to secure the responsihility of the wealthy \'enetian for the faithful execution of the terms of the patent, and finally think it hotter to liave him solely nanu'd rather than commit powers, on their face as> signahle, to young men Avho had no stake in the country, and who were not likely to make it even a fixed })!ace of residence. ( )n the whole, there may at least he a douht whether the father really accom])anied the expedition."* It is surely fjuite inuiecessary to attemj)t a serious reply to this singular passage, which, advancing IVc ni one step of an imi)ro[)ahle and unsu])ported hypothesis to another, lands tlie reader at last ir that conclusion of outrageous scepticism which lias just been quoted. The words of the second conunission state a simjde fact, '" tluit the Itiml and i.sh's ircre discovered hi/Jo/ni C '(thot." 'Vhc hiogra})her, in rei)ly, first talks discursively and at some length on the motives which induced the sons, Lewis, Sanchez, and Sebastian, to withdraw a capital, which tliere is no proof they ever advanced, — subjects of little m(;ment, — and he then at once irets rid of the stubl)orn fact, that .folni ( abot is named as the " sole discoverer," l)y the inciden- tal remark, that this would, of course, be stated as the ground of the second patent, — a species of reply which ir- resistibly reminds us of the celebrated mode (;f getMng rid of any difHculty " by a concatenation." M'c leave the reader to form Ids own conclusion from tlie words of the commission, witii no anxiety as to the result. It is asserted that Ilakluytis gvilty of perversion when he describes John Cabot as '" very expert and cunning in tkie knowledge of the circuit of the world, and islands of the same, as by a sea-card, and other demonstrations rea- sonable, he sliewed;"'!' and in. the same breath the bio- graj)her proceeds to arraign Campbell, Macpherson, and Memoir dI' Cabot, \). 00. •f Ilukliivt, vol. iii. J). J>. jj,^ga#i»: fm-mrAKi ■'.# aiiiing capital, 'c'liice and the ei y by the fa- rciiiiistances, as s favour. An- ler's name coii- ards exc'hisive- ■ter of tlie kiiifr, 'd in the result, sponsihility of c cut ion of the ter to have him m their face as. in tlie country, L fixed place of ,'ast he a doubt i expedition."* a serious reply i; from one step esis to another, 1 of outrageous he words of the \' fliitf the laud he biograj)her, me leni'th on lewis, Sanchez, ich tliere is no m{;ment, — and fact, that .fohn )y the inciden- stated as the reply which ir- (;f getting rid ^\'e leave the words of the It. >rversion when md cunning in and islands of nstrations rea- reath the bio- cidierson, and t, vol. iii. {). 9. VINDKATION OF HAKLlYT. 433 Barrow of folly, because they speak of him as a scientific and able seaman, there being no j)roof that he was any thing else than a merchant wiio dwelt in England.* Now when JIakluyt, in a writing of unquestionable authenticity, — the first royal commission just (juoted, — found John Cabot intrusted with theconnnand of a s(jua- droii of five shi|)s, v.hich was em])owered to sail on a voyage of discovery to all countries and seas of the Kast, AVest, and Xortl^ lie certainly cannot be accused of hav- ing connnitted any grievous infringement upon truth or probability when he described him as a seaman ; and when, in anotherdocument of almost ecjual authority, — the inscription on thema})by Clement Adams, — he observed it stilted that he, along with bis son Sebastian, were the first who discovered North America, are we to be cold that he was guilty of excessive exaggeration, when he drew the inference which every (Hscerning and impartial mind would he inclined to derive from the same facts, that the author of such a discovery must have been an excellent navigator and cosmographer ? Nor is it a fair mode of reasoning to accuse Campbell and Harrow as guilty of a thousaiul absurdities, when they describe John Cabot as an "accomplished seaman, a skilful {)ilot, or an intrepid navigator."t These writers, it is to be recollected, had before them the letters-iiatent in Kymer, and the inscrip- tion by Adams, — instruments which had in no way been perverted, — and from an examination of these they arrived at the conclusion, to which every reader is inevitably led, that he who ])0ssesse(l the inventive mind to plan this new course to India by the north-west, — who had in per- son commanded the expedition, and successfully achieved the discovery, — must have been, both as a jiractical and a scientific navigator, a man of no ordinary character and acquirements. It is tlifficult, witliin the limits to which we must con- fine these remarks, to reply to the various accusations against llakluyt, which are scattered throughout the pages of this Memoir ; besides we do not profess to write a full vindication of that excellent author, lie is arraigned of ig- * Mcinoir of Cabot, pp. 4(!. 47, AO, 51. •\ Memoir of (."abot, pp. 4(i, 50, 51. 2 I) 43i APFENDIX. norance and carelessness as a translator, — of a want of in- tcjj::rity in refjjard to the sense of his orifxinal, — and of ap- propriating to iiiniself passatjes from otlicr authors without acknowledgment. The gravest accusation, that of wil- fully altering the sense of his original, has heen satis- factorily answered already ; hut we venture to say that few who are acipiainted with his amusing and instructive volumes will not he astonished at the charge of ])lagiar- ism. A conscientious and even tedious scrupulosity in giv- ing the names of every individual i'rom whom he has de- rived his ir.fi.rmation is one of the most striking features of his work. 'I'he third volume of tiie second edition of his voyages ha})pens to l)e now on the tahle hefore us : It consists of ahout loS separate documents, and we will venture to say, that of these there is not one upon which the hiogra'pher can sup])()rt a charge of any thing apj)roaching to serious and ))remeditated plagiarism, — not one in which, if the author's name is known, it is not an- xiously mentioned, cr, if it is unknown, where the anony- mous paper is not given in such a way that it cannot possihly lie attrihuted to the CGm{)ilcr h.imself. Even the two instances in this volume, quoted against him by the biogra})her, do not in fair reas;oning form an excep- tion. No one who has read Uakluyt's preface will he disposed to think with severity of the sliglit alterations which, with the honest intention of presenting the whole truth before his reader, he has occasionally introduced into the abstracts, notes, and translations, which form the great body of his v/ork. His earnest desire, as he himself de- clares, " was to adjust the displaced and scattered limbs, as well of ancient and late voyages by sea as of travels by land, and traffic of merchandise by both, into one regidar body ; restoring each divided and dislocated mem- ber to its natural order and symmetry, and by the help of geography and chronology^ the sun and moon, or right and left eye of all history, referring each particular nar- ration to its due time and place." That in accomplish- ing this laudable object he has sometimes used rather undue liberties with his documents, may be admitted ; but even in the most remarkable of these instances of al- leged mistranslation and interpolation which the biogra- pher has brought against liim^ the passages are first ac- fS-AitoWiJ-i**^^. VINDICATION OK HAKLCVT VM.-i f a want of in. 1, — and of ap. utliors without I, that of wil- las been satis- ire to say that md instructive rsjje of ])la}]i;iar- )uh)sity ingiv- oin he has de- liking features ond edition of )le before us : lents, and we not one upon e of any thing ajiiarism, — not II, it is not an- lere the anony- ihat it cannot elf. I^^ven the :ainst him by )rm an excep- 'ill he disposed rations which, le wliole truth troduced into brm tlie great le himself de- attered limbs, as of travels )oth^ into one slocated mem- id by the help noon, or right articular nar- n accomplish- used rather be admitted ; istances of al- ii the biogra- are first ac- curately given in the original language, — a mode of pro- ceeding which completely establishes the honesty of his intentions. It is vain to accuse oi' franihi/cnf inter- polation a writer who tirst warns the reader that he must be prepared to find some of the translations of tlie docu- ments, which he lias presented, partially transposed, and corrected by the help of geograj)hy and chronology, and who carefully (juotes, in the same i)age, the passages in the original, l)efore he presents them in the shape which he believes consistent with truth. If this be fraud, it pos- sesses a very singular character — it is fraud wliich courts detection — it is forgery, studiously placing in tlie hands of all readers the documents by which its inicjuity may l)e traced and established. With regard to the attack made u])()n this writer for his ignorance and mistranslation, the author of the Life of Cabot, we think, in considering Hakluyt's voluminous labours, consisting of three folio voluincs, migiit have been disposed to jiardon a few inaccuracies of this na- ture. They will insinuate themselves, however anxi- ous we may be to avoid them, into all human produc- tions ; and he who has spent most time in works re- quiring multifarious research, and the painful examina- tion of ancient authorities, will be the most disposed to view with lenient eyes the errors of such as are siinilar- ly occupied. If the biographer will turn to his own Me- moir (p. '2 to), he will find in I'as(piiligi's description of the captives the following sentence: " Ilanno signata la faza in modo de Indiani: chi da vi., chi da viii., chi da manco segni." Their faces they have punctured like In- dians', some with six, some with eiglit, some ir, h fciver marks. In the Memoir, it is thus translated, " They punc- ture the face, like the Indians, exhibiting, six, eight, «>• even more nuirhs." Do not let the biographer imagine that we have quoted this erroneous version of a very simple passage with the view of accusing him of ignorance, or that there is the slightest intention of insinuating, that he did not know that the four words " chi da manco segni" meant "some with fewer marks." The oversight is pointed out as an example of the occasional mistranslations or mistakes into which, with every desire to be accurate, even a well-informed writer will occasionally fall, that he may be inclined to extend to the labours of others that i3() APPKNDIX. charity of criticism with which ho would wish that every Hheral mind should rej^ard his own.* The author of the Life of Cahot was })erfectly entitled to maintain the theory that Sehustian, the son, and not John ('a})ot, the father, was the (Uscoverer of North America ; hnt he was not entitled to adopt, what we must denominate the disin^eiuious method of making an impression upon the reader's mind hy silently drop- ping the name of the latter out of passages where, if he had stated the whole truth, he ought to have men- tioned hoth. Thus, at page 1 71- we find this remark : " At his return [Sehastian] (.'ahot settled in Bristol, ***** fifty-three years after the date of hh first commission from Henry V^Il." Again, page 222, we find this notice: " Sixty-one years had now elapsed since the date of the first commission fronj Henry VII. to Sehastian Cahot, and the powers of nature nmst have heen ahsolutely wearied out." Again, page 285, we have another moreglaringexampleofthisdetermination to keep thefathei iitirely out of view : " The hare men- tion of theFj dates will estahlish the impossilnlity that he could liav'e been ignorant of the great discoveries of Ca- bot [it is Sebastian he is speaking of], w'lich, commen- cing at the point seen on the2 Itli June 1197, had extended over the ' londe and isle' recited in the second patent." In the first and stnond of these sentences John Cabot's name is entirely suppressed, although the commission spoken of was directed to him, along with his three sons; anil in the last, the entire merit of the discovery is ascrib- ed to Sebastian, at the moment the biot apher is quoting the words of the second commission, which positively at- tributes it to John. Allusion has already been shortly made to the " evi- dence" contained in the inscription upon an ancient por- trait of Sebastian Cabot; but we must be allowed, for a moment, to add a few words upon this proof, wliich is very important and conclusive. There isno'v in existence a portrait of this navigator by Holbeii , for minute his- * In the same passage from Pasquilig'i, another oversifj^ht occnrs : " Nela terra lorononhannoferro: ma fannocortelli dealcunepietre." Memoir of Cabot, p. 240, "In their country they do not possess iron — hut they make knives of particular kinds of stones. The hiojjrapher translates cortelli tiU'orda. m^*' I'ish that every rfectly entitled 3 son, and not 'rer of North [opt, what we )(1 of making; silently drop- iges where, if to have inen- this remark : ed in Bristol, le date of his ain, i)age 222, 1 1 now elapsed from Henry »f natnre nmst lin, paj^e 23.5, ^determination Phe hare men- nihility that he overies of Ca- ich, commen- , had extended id patent." In John ( ahot's commission is three sons ; very is ascrib- ler is quoting positively at- to tlie " avi- an cient por- illowed, for a oof, which is in existence minute his- .'er.siji;ht occurs : ealcune pietre." do not j)o,sse.ss stones. ' The VINDHATIOX or riAKM'VT. 437 tory of which we refer the reader to the Appendix to the Memoir of Cabot.* It is sufficic-nt for our purpose, to remark that it isaiknowled_i2;ed to be an original, for nhich Sebastian sat to the artist, and wbich, in the time of I'urchas, hung in the Privy CJallery at VVliitehall. dpon this picture is the foUowiiiL,' inscription: — " Kftigies 8el). ('aboti Angli, filii JoJiannis (.'aboti Veneti Militis Aurati, l*rind Inventoris Terriu Nov;i' sub Henrico \'ll. Angliie Ilege." It IS evident by the common rules of grununati- cal construction, that the words Militis Aurati, I'rimi J:iventoris Terr;c Nova* sub Henrico V'll. Angliic Wo^c, apply exclusively to .John Cabot : and if so, they contain a positive assertion that John was the first discoverer of North iVmerica. Now, the authenticity of the picture l)eing undoubted, the inscription furm'shes as convincing a piece of evidence as could well be conceived. And again, it may he f irly argued, tha^ the circumstance of the words Militis Aurati being foimd united with the name of John Cabot, by wiiich it is ])roved that the king had conferred on him, and not on Sebastian, the honour of knighthood, affords the strongest presumption that it was John who was the original discoverer. This remark leads us, in the last place, to expose an extraordinary series of errors connnitted by the biogra- pher, in relation to this Latin inscri[)tion on the picture. lie has accused Dr Henry, I)r Campbell, and theautliors of the Biographia liritannica of an absurd misconce[)tion, in imagining that the words Militis Aurati indicate that John Cabot had been knighted. But it is justice to let him speak for himself. He first demonstrates that tlie w^ords Miles Auratus cannot possibly apply to li,>.- son Sebastian, after which he proceeds thus : — " The point being thus clear with regard to the son, other writers have assumed, as a matter of course, that the dis- tinction (of knighthood) must have been conferred on John (.'abot." " Accordingly, Cam})bell, in his Lives of the Ad- mirals, has an ar icle entitled Sir iJohn Cabot. Dr Henry informs us, in his History of Britain, vol. vi. p. (ilS, that John Cabot was graciously received and knightetl on his return, and the same statement is reptitcd in the Biogra- phia Britannica." " To the utter confusion," he continues, * Alcmoir of Cabot, Appendix, Letter F. p. Ii23. 438 ai'im;m)ix. " of all ihcso grave autlioritics, a inoniont's consideration will show Unit t/ir ironLs rclinl on do in tlivniKi'h'v.s jn'orr that kit'uihthood luiil not hri'U roHj'errrtt. It is scaricly in'- cessary to follow op this sug;;t'stion hy stating, that in ro- fcriMice to ono who had received ihat honour, they would haveheoi, not Militi.s Anvtiti hut Kqnitis Anroti. 'I'hough the term Miles is soinetinics applied in old documents even to Peers, yet, as a popular designation, the lan- guage of the inscription negatives the idea of knighthood. In the very works inmiediately coimected with the suh- ject of the present voUime, the appropriate [)hrase per- petually occurs. 'I'hus, I'^t/iirs Auratus is used to de- signate Sir Ilunjpl.rey (Jiihert (Ilakluyt, vol. iii. p. I'M) ; Sir Hugh \Vil]ouglil)y, ih. p. 11'^ ; Sir Martin Frohisher, lb. p. I I'J ; Sir Francis Drake, ih. |). 1 l;{. In the dedi- cation of Lok's translation of Fete r .Martyr, it is in like manner used, and we see it at this moment on the * Ef- figies' of Sir Walter Kaleigh, prefixed to the first edition of his History of the \\\)rld. It will probably be deemed very superfluous to refer to Selden's Titles of Honour (p. H.'io) for a confirmation of what has been stated. The weight of censure nuist fall on Furchas, who was originally guilty oi' f/ic hlnnder."* ()ne would have thought that the writer must have been very sure of the gn uud on wliich lie stood before he ventured to assume so lofty and decisive a tone, — and yet we are altogether at a loss for expressions which may mark courteously, and yet strongly, the combination of error, ignorance, and absurdity presented by this extraor- dinary sentence. He first argues, that the words Miles iVu- ratus are never used to denote a knight ; and, secondly, that where they are used, they '" do in themselves prove that knighthood had not been conferred," Now, fortunately, the biographer allows that Sir Iluuiphrey (iilbert was a knight, indeed he is one of his own examples of Equites Aurati. Keeping this in mind, we request him to turn to Holland's celebratetl and well-known work, the Heroolo- gia Angliie, containing the engraved i)ortraits of the most eminent English warriors, navigators, statesmen, and ecclesiastical reformers, who flourished in England from 1.500 to 1G20. He will there find, at p. (J.5, vol. i., a » Memoir of Cabot, p. Ua ;||jJW»»*«»*-«*« VINIUCATION OF IIAKLUVT. \'A9 consideration insr/iuw prorr is scarcc'ly lu-, tig, that ill re- r, tiicy would '•(ifi. 'riiou. He will there see a striking portrait of Drake, with his hand resting on the globe, and these words round the margin of the print, — " Kuan* i^( is Dhaki-, Miij:s AruAiis," One other exam[)le may be given of the common use (»f those words to denote knight- iiood, which, according to the positive assertion of our author, are never fou'ul together, and which, if used, prove that this honour had not been conferred. It is the first sentence in Holland's Life of Sir .John Iliirrington, Heroologia, i)age l.'J.'i. " .loannes Harington filius natu maximus Clarissimi 3////7/.V .lacobi Ilaringtoni de Fxton, in Comitatu Kutlandie, Ivpiestri sen Milifi.s Anrnti digni- tate multis abhinc annis a l)eatissinue memoria" Ilegina EHzabetha insignilus fuit." It need hardly be i>ointcd out to the intelligent reader, that this brief sentence of four lines, in its use of the word Miles by itself to denote knighthood, and Miles Auratus, as synonymous with the terms dignitas iMjuestris, overturns the whole argument of the biographer, who not only contends that the ex- pression Miles Auratus is never used as descriptive of knighthood, but that, excejit in ancient deeds, the sin- gle word Miles never occurs. Had he taken the trouble to consult any friend who possessed even a superficial acquaintance with the language in which the inscrip- tion was written, he must have discovered that the words Eques Auratus, Miles Auratus, E(iues by itself, and Miles by itself, are used indiscriminately in modern Latin to ilenote knighthood; and that the "absurd misconcep- 5 iiO appi;m)I> tion" imputed to others, existed nowhere hut in his own ideas. Hut even had we nothecn ahk to (juotesueh unanswer- ahleinstancesasHuniplirey.tJreiiville, J )rake, and Harring- ton, it is singular tliat it sliould not have occurred to this writer that tlie words Miles Auratiis upon John Cahot's portrait must necessaii'y liav'e had some meaning, — that they must either he hteraliy translated, or he understood to express kn.ighthood. Now this last he will not allow them to denote ; and the orily meaning he affixes to them is, that they " negative the idea of knighthood, and prove that such an honour had not heen conferred." \Ve are driven then to a literal interpretation ; and itis impos- sihle lor him, according to the j)rincii)le he has laid down, to give any other translation than this: " The portrait of Sehastian Cahot, Englishman, son of John Cahot the Venetian, a golden sokiier, but by no means a knight." Such is the singular and anuising interpretation which, had he weighed his own assertion for a moment, or had he exerted that s])irit of diligent, accurate, and extensive research (we are u .ing his own words) to which he lays claim,* the biogra})her must havefound it necessary toadopt. These various errors have heen pointed out with no other feeling than a desire of showing the recklessness of the at- tack upon ('am})hell, Henry, and the authors of the J3io- gra])hia Britanni^a. It is dilficult, indeed, to repress a smile when wt com])are the ])itterness and severity of the criticism with the extreme ignorance of the critic ; and in taking leave of this subject, we may be pernntted to hope that the recollection of his chapter on the words Miles Auratus will induce the cham))ion of Sehastian ('abot to re- vise Ids Latin, and to be more lenient to the real or supposed mistakes of his predecessors and contemporaries. It lias been shown, we trust, to the satisfaction of every one who will impartially weigh the evidence, that John Cabot was the discoverer of North America ; and it is satisfactory to find that all that may he called the con- tem})orary proofs, — the first commission in llymer, tlie brief narrative on the map hy Clement, the words of the second commission, and the inscription on the picture, — * Introduction to Momoir of Cabot, p. 1. Komarks on the lle- vined Edition of Edinburgh Cabinet Library, p. 1. i Mjj)p,.iii«i .wiiiwiniHun «i*^^-rt<^ but in his own such unnnswer- \e,aii(IIIurring. occurred to this 1 John Cabot's uieaning, — that >e understood to will not allow ? he affixes to nio;htlioo(l, and nferred." We anditisimpos- iias laid down, " The portrait 'olin Cabot the ■ans a knight." etation wiiich, lonientj or had , and extensive wliich lie lays •essarytoado})t. ; with no other sness of the at- 3rs of the Bio- I, to repress a severity of the critic ; and in niitted to hope e words Miles an C'abot to re- eal or supposed aries. iction of every ce, that John ca ; and it is died the con- 1 Ryrner, tlie ■ w^ords of the the picture, — arks on the lle- VIXniOATIOiV OF HAKLUVT. 4tl confirm the conclusion that thi.> \'enetian was entitled to the honour. Before, however, concluding these remarks, we may add a single word, on tlie testimony of later authors. Fabyan, or the contemporary writer, for he is spoken of under both ilenominations, IJacon, I)e Thou, and Speed, are all cited by the biographer as exclusively in favour of the title of Sebastian. " We have the best evidence," says be (p. 11), " that the contemporary writer, who- e/er be may have been, made not the slightest allusion to the father. Bacon, Speed, 'I'buanus, ike. all furnish the same statement." Now, with regard to Fabyan, in his printed Chronicle there is no allusion, either to the original discovery cm the '2'th June 1 197, or to the subsequent voyage of Sebastian Cabot in IVJH ; and as to the supposed manuscript Chronicle which is stated by Stow to have been in his possession, it a])pears to have l)erished, and we have no nuxle of ascertaining its import, except through the note of Ilakluyt, which, as far as it goes, is nowise against theclaim of John Ciiljot. Nay, even grant- ing that (to the contrary of which we have strong proof) in Stow's Chronicle, published in KiO.'i, occurs the very pas- sage of the lost manuscript of Fabyan, and that in this pas- sage Sebastian Cabot, a (ienoa's son, born in Bristol, is alone mentioned ; still the reader is already aware of the conclusive answer, namely, that the passage relates not to the first voyage of 1 197, but to the second voyage of 1 t9H, of which all are agreed that Sebastian Cabot had the com- mand. But another evidence in favour of Sebastian as the original discoverer is said to be found in Lord Ba- con's Life of Henry \TL ^^'e can scarcely i)e: suade our- selves that any one who makes this assertion can have atten- tively studied tlie remark in question, so evidently does it allude, we think, where it mentions Sebastian, to the second voyage of 1498, and not to the original voyage of 1497. That Bacon was aware this was not the first discovery, and that he had a vague knowledge of a prior voyage, in which the continent of America was originally found out, is evident from this sentence : " And there bad been before that time a discovery of some lands, which they took to be idands, and were, indeed, the continent of America towards the north-w..st." Again, as if anxious to warn the reader as to there having been a prior discovery, be saysj " But this Gabato bearing the king in hand that he 2e ' ''S'ftCA'"* U2 APPENDIX. would find out an island endued witli rich commodities, procured him toman and victual a ship at Bristol, for the discovery of that island, with whom ventured also three small ships of London merchants, fraught with some gross and slight wares, fit for commerce with barbarous people."* It is evident that Lord Bacon is here making use of the [)assage in Stow, employing, with some slight alterations, its very words. So far, however, from containing a proof that the merit of the original discovery belongs to Sebastian, it warns the reader that the continent had already been found in some prior voyage, although no name is given, and the date is left uncertain. The obser- vation of the biographer, therefore, that Bacon makes no allusion to the father, is literally correct ; but the inference drawn from it, th;it therefore Baccn's testimony goes to support the claim of Sebastian as the original discoverer, is completely excluded when the passage comes to be nar- rowly examined. As to DeTliou, this great writer, so far as we have looked through his voluminous historicalwork, contains no passage upon the sul)iect of either voyage ; and thesame observation aj)phes to such editions of (irafton, Ilolinshed, Ilall, and riarding, as we have had an opportunity of consulting. It has been already remarked that the sentence quoted from Stow, which the biographer erroneously conceives to offer a proof that Sebastian had the sole charge of the voyage of 1497, in which the discovery was made, relates solely to the seccnd voyage of 11 98. t ^\'ith regard to Speed, whom he also (juotes as, along with Bacon and De Thou^ mak- ing no allusion to the father, the same answer strictly aj)plies, — the only voyage of which he takes notice being the second, in 1 198, as is distinctly fixed by his observa- tion that it took place after the a})prehension of Berkin A\^arbeck.;}; It is very evident, however, that the biogra- })her was bound to show that Bacon, Stow, and Sjjeed had given an account of the first voyage of 1497, in wliich the