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Las diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■ mr. ft. J. o'^*.\\y ^ lo.oo ju^at-ea ju^at-ea To the dear friends of many years,— my kind and hospitable entertainers in their lovely home at Fairfield, Victoria,— Sir Joseph W. and IvEdy Trutch, I offer these jottings as a souvenir of onr most delightful excursion along the Coast of British Columbia, Aug. 17-28, 1891. Mary H. Holbrook. Portland, Oregon, _*-■-'■ . ' 5. ■ . Jan. 25, 1892. 1 \ 1 JOTTINGS BV THE WAV. RECEIVING a pressing invitation to visit old friends in Victoria, and not having done so for several years, I left Portland August 4th 1891, intending to spend a week or two in Victoria, and then visit friends in Olympia before returning home. After a few days at Fairfield House, the pleasant home of Sir Joseph W. Trutch, I was quite electrilied after breakfast one morning by an invitation to go on a pleasure trip to the borders of Alaska. Every objection on the ground of my invariable experience with the "rolling waves" was met and overcome by the assurance that the steamer would take the inland route and be expos- ed to the open sea but very little. Her errand was to the canneries at the various stations on the coast of British Columbia, for which purpose she would enter the many inlets and channels with which the coast abounds, and the whole voyage was likely to be n very interesting one. This was too tempting to be refused, and consequently Monday evening August 17, saw Lady Trutch and myself comfortably ensconced on board the fine English Steamer "Islander," commanded by Capt. John Irving, with luggage enough to start to the North Pole. The only draw-back to our enjoy- ??3076 inent was the loss of Sir Joseph's genial company^ of which wc were deprived by busineHS which could not be neglected. Wo were very fortunate however, in having as a substitute the presence of his brother-in-law, P. O'Reilly Esq. Indian Reserve Commissioner, and hif: son Jack, a bright young lad of 18, just from school at Uppingham, England. There were but few passengers on board. Capt. Irving's wife and their three children, -Mrs. Townley, of Vancouver, B, C.,-her daughter Mrs. Slinger, on a visit to her mother from her home in England, and her son, Mr. G. R. Townley, of New Westminster ;-Mr. and Mrs. Clark, tourists from Tenafly, N.J., — Mrs. Ardagh, on her way from England to enter upon missionary work in Mctlahkahtla, where her son. Dr. Ardngh, is serving as medical missionary, under the English Church, to the coast stations in British Columbia; and Messrs. Shears and Goepel of Victoria. It does not take long to become acquainted under such circumstanech, especially with a good piano and two or three pianists in the company. Tuesday, 18th. . The steamer has moved as steadily all night as though on Willamette River. Dressed this morning as comfortably as in my own room at home. For the first part of the night it was foggy and rainy, and the Steamer's whistle kept blowing occasionally, which made me wakeful ; but atmt one or two o'clock it cloare«l off, jri I Mif? moon rose nnvgniticontly. This morning we are keeping along parallel with a range of bold, rocky mountains veiy UUe the Olympic Mts., — perhai)B not quite so jagged as the Olympics, but some of their dark blue peaks almost covered with broad patches of glit- tering ice and snow. Passed Salmon River about noon, and Adams River about 2 o'clock. Too much cannot be said in praise of the scenery every stop of the way. Such massive, grand mountains ; hills of 2000 and 2500 feet high unfold from one another, "Alps on Alps," the whole horizon majestic and beautiful beyond my power to describe! Here we entered the famous and dangerous Seymour Narrows ; but so smoothly did we move, and so easily round every abrupt corner under the skilful guidance of the Capt., that no fear entered any heart. Capt. Irving says we shall cross Queen Charlotte's Sound to-night, and although it has been perfectly steady all the way thus far, they prophesy a rough passage across. (May be, but not necessarily ; 1 have noticed that amateur weather prophets are not infallible.) At half past four stopped at Alert Bay, Cormorant Island, in Broughton's Straits. (Sounds very home-like to me, Broughton being my family name.) Here are an Indian Village, an Indian burial place, with its fantastic and fT weird figures, a cannery, and alittle church. Rev. Mr. Hall and wife, mission- aries of the church of England, and an Indian agent and wife, reside here. Walked over to see the totem poles ; and much as 1 have read about them, they are more grotesque, and have an expression of their own more real and sad than words or engravings can ever tell. One poor colossal face, with its pea-green hair and nose, absolutely was expressive of a deep longing for light and help ! It was truly symbolic, to me. After dinner we stopped fifteen minutes at Fort Rupert, the oldest fort on the coast, (Hudson Bay Co.) No one lives there now but Indians, and pos- sibly one or two old employes. After leaving the Fort we all began to make preparation for crossing the Sound, — putting things away that might be knocked around, — so I retired to my berth, and sat up writing this, waiting till it is rough ! At present there is no sign of it. Wednesday, 19th. Still absolutely perfect weather, sea and sky, but in the first half of the night I fully realized that we were crossing the open sea. It was not rough, there was no wind, and Capt. Irving says he never knew it so smooth in crossing before, but to us lands-women it was a rather decided shaking-up ! And although not brought to the point of sea-sickness, I was just as "glad" as the sailors of the 107th Ps. were when they were "quiet." At 1, A. M. we had crossed the Sound and entered Rivers' Inlet. Here we lay till nine o'clock, and left while we were at breakfast. Crossed Millbank Sound about noon, and as it was a little rough, I laid down and took a nap. Passed up Graham Reach and Fraser Reach, through Johnstone and Brough- ton Straits, a'^d anchored in Bishop's Cove for tlie niglit. In the evening I played and sang for an hour or two some of the songs and glees that were popular thirty and forty years ago, — "A life on the ocean wave," "Some love to roam," "The Ivy Green," Medley, Rory O'Moore, Swanee River, etc. etc. others joining in. • At Capt. Irving's request Lady Trutch and I sang "Juanita," and for an encore, "What are the wild waves saying." Then the engineer, Mr. Brownley, came up by invitation, and sang several songs. He has a remarkably tine, deep bass voice, and gave us all great pleasure. On leaving the piano "a vote of thanks" was proposed by Mrs. Slinger, "seconded" by Capt. Irving, and unanimously "carried." Thursday, 20. Mackerel clouds this morning, but still very pleasant. Started from Bishop's Cove at 7 a. m. and entered Gardner's Channel. "The finest in the whole route" says Mr. O'Reilly. From 8:30 a. m. the scenery wits a continuous, ever-changing panorama of grandeur and beauty. We were apparently in tlie centre of a land-locked slieet of translucent, green- ish water, (a iiuality peculiar to the glacier water,) surrounded every where bv mountains of constantly varying characteristics. Five minutes, yes even three will so change the whole outlook that you search in vain for a particular feature that you wished to point out. For instance between two iinrnense mountains of rugged rock in the fore-ground would suddenly loom up tie i above tier of snow-crowned ridges or a solitary cone, and be ^-^uely hidden from Bight in a few moments by another peak, unseen before. So suddenly would these huge giants appear and disappear, they almost .eemed endowed ^''^'nere rose one specially beautiful glacier with an intense blue iint^ Then a remarkable peak crowned with the perfect head and face ot a l>"boon o gorilla, as iflooking at us in a curious stare. Coming nearer ^' ^^^ human, and had a kindly expression, and at last was a pleasant ild-fm^e When we saw it upon our return in the full glare of the afternoon sun, it had lost the more decided features. , ' i * T^u;.v..,f .,n We passed slowly on to the head of the inlet and stopped at Kitimat, au Indian village. Visited the cannery there kept by a young Englishman hy the name of Price. , , Here is the most beautiful waterfall that we have seen. A «». l^^^e stream con,es suddenly from behind a wall of rocks, which ooks '^1--^ hke ma.onrv, through a natural, open door, and bounds with lull force down fiom a height of 100 feet into a deep basin from which it jumps out again and falls a second and then a third time, pouring with much noise into the inlet. I should think the volume of water quite equal to that of the Minnehaha Falls, near St. Paul. In view of the fact that we were the first lady visitors to the place since Mr. Price had lived here, this lovely fall was named by him "Lady Trutch's Waterfall." Lady Trutch acknowledged the compliment very grace- fully, expressing her appreciation of the honor of being associated with so lovely a thing in nature. Through Verney passage into Grcnville Channel. This channel is also very fine all the way. After dinner, we went on the upper deck again, for we were unwilling to lose a single turn in these waters, and here were more marvels. Enclosing us on every side,-a perfect circle of niountains,-single, isolated ones, and behind those, long ranges of bold, towering peak8,-it was bewildering to think of finding one's way in and out among them. The mountains rise sheer and abrupt from the water's edge, probably revealing only a third of their full size, which must extend to an ocean-like depth below, for these waters are not fathomed, and steamers of large size can pass around and between them in every direction. Lady Trutch called it the Venice of the Pacific. To me, the scene appeared as if a great congress had been called of all the old ante-diluvian mammals, walruses, hippopotami, and all kinds of gigantic 1 ! creatures, and that they had wakened from their long sleep and gathered out of their hiding places to see by what right these jjuny mortals were freely cruising through tlieir realms? It was really awe-inspiring to sit and be in the centre of all this. We thought Desolation Sound would be a good name for it. There is a passage near called "Devastation," after the English war-ship that came out here. The lovely, beautiful sunset shed a glory over all ; and the full moon, which came up later, gave it a softer look. How I wish for a Kodak, to re-produce all these beauties to the dear friends at home ! Friday 21. In the night stopped at Standard Cannery, quite a large one, as I saw from my window, — somewhere between Grenville Channel and Telegraph Passage. Then to Skeena River, up as far as Port Essington, where greatly to our regret, we were to part with Mr. O'Reilly and Jack. Mr. O'Reilly was kind enough to leave his four fine charts with us, which he said he brought purposely for our accommodation ; and so, with Sir Joseph's map and glasses, we are finely provided. At 2 p. M, we reached Inverness, where the dreadful land-slide oc- <5urred recently. We walked to the spot. Just before it leached the little house and barn which were exactly in its path, the immense mass, without any apparent reason, divided, and rushed along on each side of them, not harming a hair of any one. Not a life or limb was touched ! A careful inves- tigation fallowed the deeply imbedded root of sin old tree just at the place where the avalanche divided, and which, humanly speaking, doubtless caused the divide. Skeptics would say it was foolisli to attribute it to any thing but an accident, or 'good luck," but the children of God know better, and in due time. Fie will make it manifest to all. An Indian family of nine were in the barn, and Mr. Stapleton, manager of the cannery, was asleep in the house when the slide occurred in the early morning. The little house and barn stand side by side. A canoe on the west side of the barn was crushed and dragged along, and on the east side of the house a wood-pile was wrecked ; showing conclusively the entire track of the huge mass, which we saw lying at the bottom of the slope. Such tremendous roots and trunks of trees, a great burden of tir boughs, etc., with large quanti- ties of earth, large enough to crush the life out of anything that came in its way. Mr. Stapleton, a big, burly Englishman, was very polite to us, taking us through the cannery and giving us all these details. This day has been lovely in the extreme, soft and warm. We reached Metlahkahtla just as the dinner bell rang, at 6 o'clock, and poor Mrs. Ardagh had to go away without her dinn<'r. But she was so happy to meet her son who came off in a boat, that she had no thought for anything more ! After dinner we all went ashore — two boat loads — our boat reaching tlie shore first. After considerably delay, the other boat followed, and we learned that Mr. Shears, who was in charge of it, made a mis-step in getting in, and slipped off into the water! He escaped with a ducking, but they had to wait till he changed his clothes. This is a very pretty place, the most inviting of any station we have seen. Of course it is full of interest to me on account of my having heard the story of Mr. Duncan's work here and its unfortunate ending. We were met at the beach by the curate, Rev. Mr. Gerd, and three young ladies. Lady Trutch and I walked up to the Bishop's and he came out to meet us very cordially, took us through his garden, where he had a very tine display of vegetables, berries, and flowers. At the door Mrs. Ridley welcomed us, and invited us into the house, into a very neat and pretty parlor, adorned in quite an attractive manner with Indian curiosities, etc. After a little pleasant conversation, Mrs.R. took us along the village street, its houses being all on one side, the other side sloping to the beach, with a splendid view of the broad Queen Charlotte's Sound stretching away before them. These houses are the most like civilization of anything we have seen. Some are of one, some of two stories, with pretty yards, shrubbery and flowers, and enclosed with neat paling fences. The long, pretty street is really picturesque. 10 iiiii i We called tit the Industrial school taught by Mr. Scott, and were greatly pleased. 21 boys are there now, one of whom played a tunc on the organ for us very creditably. Then to see the little Ardagh family— the baby, Sidney Vernon, one month old, the pale, delicate looking mother, who will, no doubt, soon recover her strength and color now that her nice mother-in-law has come. The Dr. is quite happy and satisfied to have his mother once more. There is also an Industrial School for the girls, taught by Miss Dickinson, a year out from England, but as the hour for evening service hud arrived, we went to the Chapel, not having time for both. The service was conducted by Bishop Ridley, Mrs. Ridley presiding at the organ, Mr. Gerd leading the sing- ing, and an Indian deacon offering part of the prayers in the native tongue. The remainder of the service was in Enghsh. The Chapel was full ; the Indian girls, undej- the care of their teacher, were there, and many others, besides a few from our steamer. Mr. Dunca!i has certainly done some magnificent work here that will last for a century, at least. The solidly built church, (^of which the corner stone was laid by Sir Joseph Trutch while Lieut. Governor of B. C.) in its simple, unstained, natural cedar, its lofty roof supported by pillars as solid as the forest trees, its chancel and altar, its broad aisles, well carved seats, itsreading det>k carved from a single piece of cedar, on a i)edestal equally substantial,— II all this really artistic work having been done by the Indians under the ^ crsonal training of Mr. Duncan with the instruction and assistance of a carpenter sent out to him from England, must speak his praise. Alas! for our poor human imperfections! It is very si>d that they should cause the patient, beautiful work of so many years to be in any degree over- clouded. But the great Head of the Church universal "before whom all hearts are open and from whom no secrets are hid" will surely over-rule for good even mistakes made by sincere hearts in their zeal for the promotion of His King- dom on the earth. The steamer lay there all night. Started at 5 :30 a. m. and arrived at Port Simpson before breakfast, on Saturday, 22. "Theysay" it was raining all night, but I was blissfully unconscious of any trouble, real or imaginary, and slept right through till 5 o'clock, waking much refreshed. It was quite natural to see an "Oregon mist," or, as some of our company termed it a "Scotch" mist, but to me that is rather pleasant than otlierwise, and as usual, I enjoyed the rainy day. Again we all went ashore. Walked up the long pier to the Hud- son Bay Store, went up stairs into a garret, where they kept the curios, but saw nothing I wanted. Went to the girls' Industrial Home, accompanied by Dr. Bolton, medical missionary here. We walked up a long, rather nice street, 12 facing all the way the Methodist Church, which stands at the top of the ascent. Rev. Mr. Crosby, the resident minister, was very kind and polite, and opened the church for us to see. Invited us also, into his museum, in which he has a really good collection of shells, stones, and Indian curios. There were some curious sponges, exactly like many specimens of coral we often see, something like a hand with multitudinous fingers. In the girls' Home, we saw the little Indian girls sitting and knitting, and singing merrily as they knit, "The Evergreen Shore." Returning, we noticed a handsome monument of the pretty mottled red marble, standing right in the street, with an inscription in gilt letters, "ABRAHAM LINCOLN, > Aged 85, , • ., . . •.. . DIED JULY 21, 1890." At first, only the name struck ns, and I exclaimed "How came a monu- ment to President Lincoln here! in British Columbia, and in this wilderness!" Dr. Bolton was much amused at our surprise, and explained that it was not our late honored President, but an old Indian who was thus immortalized, and he called our attention to another side of the monument, on which was engrav- ed "Doleth, daughter of Abel." I have not the slightest doubt that that last inscription means to say that "Doleth" was the daughter of the Abraham 13 il^ Lincoln referred to, jind not some otlier Indian named "Abel." And the misttike most probably arose from the direction given briefly to the engraver, "daughter of Abe L." and he, a Canadian, ignorant of our American habit of irreverently nick-naming our honored statesmen and others, thought it meant Abel, and so carved it. Mr. Clark, the only American gentleman in the party, fully agreed with me. Sailed away at noon, keeping along by the Alaska coast, and were the whole afternoon crossing over to the Queen Charlotte Islands, rolling and tum- bling against a head wind. It was quite clear and bright, however. Nearly all the ladies went to their berths, and I was much more comfor- table than ever before under such circumstances. At 7 p. m. we anchored in Massett Harbor, on Graham Island, the northernmost of the group, and attend- ed, with great zest, to eating our dinners. This has been a very agreeable pas- time during the voyage, as the cAiisine is excellent, and the cook an experienced Frenchman. During dinner the ship dragged her anchor, and we drifted some distance down. The tide here is very strong, and was going out. The Capt. sprang from th. m. then started to cross Queen Charlotte's Sound. I played some hymns for all to sing until about 8 v. m. when we came into the strong swell, and I willingly yielded my seat at ttie piano to Mr. Goepel, who ontertained us all most delightfully till nearly 11 o'clock. THUUsrAV, 27. Did not sleep very well, for just before reaching the Straits a heavy log settled around us, and the frequent whistle, as usual, kept me awake. At last we anchored outside, near Hope Island. Here we remained till after breakfast. Tried to start several times, but had to stop. Messrs. Clark, Shears, Townley, Green, and a few others, went ashore on the Island to hunt deer, but soon the fog scattered and the whistle called them back, having caught nothing. Passed Fort Rup«nt, and about 1 :30 v. M. stopped at Alert Bay. Here we all went on sliore, but this time walked in the opposite direction from that which 19 T l\ we took on our former visit. Visited the burying ground, wherethe whites have some neat enclosures, and, adjoining, is that of the natives. As usual with the Indians,, their dead are buried above ground, and covered over in various ways ; some with square boards — some with tall poles surmounted by hideous carved heads, human and in-human, beasts and birds. One had a little house about 4 ft. high, covered with cotton cloth and ornamented with bands of turkey red, with a red cross conspicuous in front. This was probably a Christian. Gapt. and Mrs. Irving, Lady Trutch and myself, made a short call at Mr. Silencer's. Left Alert Bay about 5 o'clock. Music all the evening from Mr. Goepel and and Mr. Green. Passed through Seymour Narrows just after dark. FiiirAY, 28. Waked early, but thought there was plenty of time, when the wbiotle blew a long peal. I sprang up, and seeing the spires and roofs of a city, supposed it must be Victoria, and hastened to dress. Called at Lady T's door, "We are at Victoria! right at the wharf!" but meeting one of the waiters I asked where we were — he replied "at Nanaimo." (All my hurry for nothing.) Remained here till near noon, and most of us went ashore to see the town. Pasing a tent where it was advertised "Tin Types taken and finished in ten minutes," Capt. Irving pr()})osed that we all go in and be "taken" in a group. So we went in and "posed," and the Capt. presented us each with one as a 20 souvenir of the trip. Left Nanaimo about noon, and arrived at Victoria a little after four. After lunch we gathered about the piano for a final song. Capt. Irving begged, as usual, for his favorite "Hapi)y Land," and Bethany — Then we sang "Home, Sweet Home," "Auld Lang Syno," — sung with liands crossed and joined all around, — and then the national air, "God Save the Queen." After which, all who could, joined me in "The Star Spangled Banner," "The Red, White and Blue," and marched away to "Yankee Doodle." Appreciating Capi. Irving's courteous and unremitting attention to the comfort and enjoyment of his guests, the cabin pasengers united in resolutions expressive of our gratitude for his uniform consideration, and also in the more substantial token of a handsome diamond scarf-pin and stud, presented to him after arriving in Victoria. Thus ends one of the most interesting and delightful excursions that even this beautiful coast can furnish. The route taken by the Canadian steamers is not the same as tliat which is followed by our Alaska and Pugut Sound line. The Canadian steamers follow the inequalities of the coast, going in and out of every inlet by which the main land of British Columbia is perforated, and these are all of great beauty. Those who have made the usual trip to Alaska will be well repaid by adding this one next year by way of tert. n