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OU»MC 6* TORONTO. ?. • Visitors to Qviebec In the Su.i^mer and Autumn have Special Facilities tor P URCMASIING F URS at SUMMER PRICES V» V> AT V V ^HOLT.^ RENFREW =®. Co's= As a Full Stock of the Newest — Styies Is on Inspection — THR.OUGHOUT THE YEAR E.relasivc I}esi(/ii,s in — LADIES' FUR. GARMENTS TIGRES, LEOPARDS, POLAR BEARS, MUSK OX AND OTHE'? SKINS SUITABLE FOR RUGS. FINE RUSSIAN AND HUDSO.N BAY SABLES "^ ^ ^ ALWAYS IN STOCK ^ v? v< \ Queen Alexandra. AND TO H R H THE Prince of Wales COMPI/IMBNIX/ OB Furriers. Qmmc a> Toronto. / Q U E B E QUEBEC BEAVKR DAM, HOLT, RENFREW & CO'S ZOO, MONTMORENCY FALLS He'jitilertd in conformity with the law by HOLT, Renfrew & Co. A DAY IN QUEBEi: TH IC tourist who has hut one day to spare for Quehec, is naturally anxious to crowd into it as much as possihle, and for him a rather arduous proji;ramnie may be prepared. The first item thereon is always the Citadel, fV .ugh it is not so old as many another building in the town. The present stt ucture belongs to tl'.e second decade of the nineteenth century, and was built after Entrance to Citadei^. a design approved by the Duke of Wellington. To save time it is well to drive there, securing a carriage : Co. whcsc driver can talk English. WotFE's Monument The road up to the Citadel is somewhat like a maze ; you aredriven through a chain gate that is worthy of notice, but at the inner gate a sentry bars the way, and to proceed farther, you must go on foot. You are accompanied by a soldier who makes it his business to tell the weight ofthedifferent guns, to call your attention to the one cap- tured at Bun- ker Hill, to in- form you con- cerning the nature of the different buildings within the enclosure, and finally, to lead you to the King's Bastion, the highest part of the Citadel, from which a gun is fired at noon and at half past nine at night. The view from that point is said to be unequalled in America. Where else can one see such a panorama ? The wide stre' :h of the St. Charles Valley; the rounded blue mountains that look down upon it and upon the broad bosom of the St. Lawrence as it expands into a magnificent harbor after its contraction at Ouebec ; and nearer still the tin-roofed houses of thelown itself, packed tightlv together upon the steep slope, as if for mutual support. But if you have only one day to stay, you must not linger over that lovely prospect. You must be content with a distant view of the long drawn out village of Beauport leading to the falls of Montmorency, with but a field-glass inspection of the church at Ste. Anne de Beaupre, and quickly return to the Citadel gates, where your drivei, or "carter " as he is called here, awaits you. Driving down Citadel Hill he may sug- gest tluil you alight and walk along the ramparts for a short distance, joining him lower down at St. Lrouis Gat^ By so doing you will have another magnificent view of river, mountain and plain, which never look quite the same when seen from different points. You can- not avoid noticing how close upon the street all the houses within the walls are built, how each has its double door, and is clap-boarded over the stone or brick upon the side next the east wind, which reigns here in winter. Through St. Louis Gate you drive, past the grandly situated new Parliament Buildings on the right, and on the left the Skating Rink and Drill Hall. In front of the latter is the Short-Wallack Monument, which connnemorates the fact of these two gallant soldiers losing their lives when rendering assistance at one of Quebec's many large fires. --.So on, out the Grande Allee, from which jour driver will make a detour to the Plains of Abraham to show you the spot, upon which is erected a monument with the inscription : HERE DIED WOIvFE VICTORIOUS, . SEPT. 13TH, 1759 If you are of an imaginative turn of mind you can fill in all the details of that brief, brilliant battle that changed the destiny of North America. A mile or .so further out the road, if time permits, you can be driven into the grounds of' Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieut- enant- Gov- ernor of Que- bec, beauti- fully situated on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, and if you choose to walk over to the edge of the cliff you can see the ravine up which Wolfe brought his men to take Quebec. Levis and Murray's Monument. — 5 - I Time flies, and you must hasten back to town, cross- ing from the St. Louis to the Ste. Foye Road by the tree-bordered Belvedere. Driving in the Ste. P'oye Road one gets to know, by sight at least, the large suburbs of St. Roch and St. Sauveur, in the valley below, with their spacious churches, and there is always the lovely mountain frame upon the horizon. There is an inter- esting monument upon this road erected to Generals Levis and Murray, in memory of the attempt by the French to re-take Quebec in 1760. It is time for lunch when you get to town again and afterwards you will stroll into the venerable Basilica, BASIUCA SQUARE SHOWING LOCATION OK HOI.T, RENFREW & CO'S ESTABIJSHMENT or perchance into the large fur store opposite, of Holt, Renfrew & Co. , which is known as one of the sights of Quebec. This firm buys its pelts direct from the Indians and th.e en'T>lovees can tell manv stories of the customs of that primitive people, who have become almost extinct in Eastern America. — 6 — ross- the load urbs with ively iter- erals r the and lica, iment Holt, >ights 11 the ies of ?come Take a walk next upon Duflferin Terrace, to which you Hre welcomed by the statue of Champlain, hat in hand. Other Europeans sailed to Canada for conquest or for gold ; he came to make a settlement ; founded Quebec, and after a long life spent in her service, laid his bones at last on the hillside near the Post Office not far below the spot where his monument now stands. The name of the Terrace recalls a modern governor who did much for Quebec — and for Canada — and the unrivalled promenade is not unworthy of its god-father. From the Terrace one can branch off into the Gov- ernor's Gardens, where is the joint monument to Wolfe and Montcalm : or ascend the flight of steps at the far end which lead to a walk round the cliff under the King's Bastion, and out on to the golf links. The elevator at the other end of the Terrace will shorten your descent to Lower Town and will land you in lyittle Champlain Street, that narrow, planked alley with high roofed houses on either side. Still more quaint is Sous-le-Cap, which can be reached by taking the turn into Sault-au-Matelot Street, from Mountain Hill, You can drive through this street provided there is a guarantee that you meet no other vehicle. There are the same high, French roofs with peaked windows in them, and here and there a prop reaching across the way, frail enough supports, if the sturdy cliff which protrudes itself at intervals should take it into its head to advance further. Much of the Lower Town of to-day stands upon land re-claim- ed from the river, but in 1775, Sault-au- Matelot was the only street below the cliff at that place, and therefore by it did Co- lonel Benedict Arnold try to enter Quebec and failed. The Lower Tovn is the point of depart- ure either by boat or train, and even if you have seen all that can be seen in one day, you will go away with a firm belief in the de- lightfulness of what you have not seen, r , and with an equally firm determination Kent Gate. to come again. TWO DAYS IN QUEBEC V F you have two days to spare for Quebec, you I will arrange the programme of the first a little differently. On your morning drive you need not cross from St. Louis to St. Foye Road by the Belvedere, but can continue out the former to the crossing which takes you round by the village of Ste. Foye, whose huge church is a striking mark on the hill side, as seen from many miles to the north and east. In this way you will pass the two principal cemeteries of Quebec, notable for the beauty of their situation, on the high bank overlooking the St. Lawrence ; will drive through the picturesque ham- let of Bergerville, and have passing glimpses of the .iiany fine residences on the St. Louis Road, whose extensive, well-kept grounds, remind one of Engli.sh country seats. The most interesting of these is Spencer Grange, where so many celebrities have been enter- tained by Quebec's antiquarian and naturalist. Sir James LeMoine. Upon the cross road leading through Ste. Foye, there is a considerable rise in the ground which enables one to get an extra peep, to stand on tip-toe, as it were, and thereby to see more of the wide panorama of river, mountain and valley, than has been possible hitherto. Driving in by the Ste. Foye Road, one who is interested in churches, may take time to alight at the imposing structure, St. Jean Baptiste, in Sl. John Street, which is next to the Basilica in import- ance among the French churches in the city. With a second day in view, the traveller may well leave over his visit to Sous-le-Cap and Little Charaplain streets, and also his inspedlion of the furs in Holt, Renfrew & Co. 's until the afternoon of the second day, and on his first afternoon spend more time in the Bas- ilica, where the pictures are worthy of attention. Some of them were sold for a song in France at the time of the Revolution. He may also visit the Seminary Cha- pel and have an hour or so for Laval University, where there is a museum and picture gallery, the latter par- ticularly interesting. These are open to the public free on Thursday afternoons, and on ether days by payment of a small fee. If the weather be fine, the morning of the second day cannot be better spent than in taking the walk all round the ramparts. This is enough ror a whole fore- noon, because, though not a long dist£.ncc, it is a some- — s — what fatiguing ramble, up and down hill ; and in places it becomes a scramble, over bits of wall and across can- non ditches, where the very harmless-looking old guns so peacefully repose. You want plenty of time, too, to allow of a seat here and there to enjoy the lights and shadows on the distant hills viewed from different points. The mountains have a kaleidoscopic habit of sliding behind one another, of jostling each other to peer over each other's shoulders and many changes of the color and contour which render them fascinating in the extreme. Chateau Frontenac and Dufferin Terrace, There are none of the original gates of the city left standing. Those on Palace, Hope and Mountain Hills have never been restored and St. John's Gate was removed in 1897 ; but ^\\e present St. lyouis and Kent Gates, are picturesque in themselve.s, if some- what out of keeping with the old grassgrovvn walls, and from the top of each, one gets chaiming views of the oddly planned streets of the Upper Town. The walk on the ramparts will include the Grand Battery and will wind up with a turn on the Terrace, and a longer rest in the sheltered Governor's Gardens than was possible in the sojourn of a day. On many evenings in the summer the band from the Citadel or from a visiting tr.nn-of-wp.r plays on the Terrace to the delight of thousands of promenaders. 9 — THREE DAYS IN QUEBEC I ^^ N the third day, the tourist feels inclined to yj spread his wings a little, and it will be quite in order to spend the forenoon in visiting the famous shrine of Ste, Anne de Beauprd. There are frequent trains by the Electric Railway, which give one a pleasant ride along the shore of the St. Lawrence below the cliff. On one side is the river, while upon the other is the string of white-washed cottages dotting the slope the whole way to Ste. Anne. From the train there is a also, a charming view of the Falls of Montmorency, and looking up at them, one can realize their great height, which is said to be one hundred feet more than that of Niagara. Ste. Anne is reached in about an hour, and the church is within a few yards of the station. An hour may be spent there in seeing the sacred relics, the pilgrims who come to be cured by them, the pyra- mids of crutches, etc., left by the cured, the old original chapel of Ste. Anne, and the Scala Sancta which the faithful ascend upon their knees. On the way back, the tourist has the privilege of stopping off at Montmorency Falls where an elevator will take him to the Kent House ; and if his stay in Quebec be short, he would do well to take advantage of this opportunity to see the attractions of Mont- morency, which are described in the programme for the fifth day in Quebec. Otherwise, returning to town, the afternoon may be well spent in taking a drive through Champlain street, and on by the lower road out to Sillery, or further still to Cap Rouge, and back by the St. Louis Road, allowing time to drive through the beautiful Mount Hermon Cemetery on the way home. On the way out in Champlain street, one is driven over a considerable rise in the ground made by the fatal landslide of 1889, and looking up can see where the great slice was taken off the rock at the time. Driving along under the cliff the information is thrust upon the least observant that " HKRE MONTGOMERY FEI.I.." This is the only mark left of the American attack upon Quebec, except a notice in the wall of a house on St. T .Q111J! SLreet to the effect that it has bepti biiilt upon the site of the small dwelling, into which the body of the American general was carried after his fall. Sil histc Cart secoi tury fort erect from Mas! I 10 — Sillery and Cap Rouge are both interesting from a historical point of view. At the former place Jacques Cartier built a rude fort in 1541, and spent there his second winter in Canada ; at the latter, about a cen- tury afterwards, the Jesuits had an hospital and mission for the Indians. There is a small monument at Sillery erected in memory of the founders of the settlement, from whom it was named, and also in honour of Pere Masse, an early missionary, buried there. Montmorency Fai,i,s in Summer. — II — FOUR DAYS IN QUEBEC N the fourth day you will be unable longer to Cj refrain from taking a trip fo the fair Isle of Orleans, which has smiled upon you from so many different points. Who would believe that it was credited with being the head- quarters for demons in days of old? If you can spare a whole day for the Island, so much the bet- ter, as then you will have time to visit Miranda's Cave, an ideal, picnic spot upon the South shore ; to drive MONTMORIiNCY lAI. US liN WINTER. also to St. Laurent, farther down, going and, returning by different roads that rival each other in beauty of prospects, though the northern has the advantage of presenting a superb view of the Falls of Montmorency. You can return to town in the evening when the sun- set colors on mountains and rivers are things to dream of, and the old city itself, looming up through the mists, appears to be enveloped in the ghosts of her past. The fanciful person may picture the; English forces encamped upon Orleans, the ships riding at anchor in front, and General Wolfe planning how he can over- come the proud town which has so long defied him. Five times was Quebec besieged :— 1629, 1690, 1759, 1760, 1775. ^YiQ view of the citv from the Island boat is a sight not to be missed, showing as it does the commanding position held by the old town at the gateway of the St. lyawrence. — 12 — If mus ter t leav oldl quai bart thoi littli stab Moi T the Cha loir gen Th£ Sen: Pah T If the fourth be your last clay in Quebec, the Island must not absorb the whole of it, but hah" a loaf is bet- ter than no bread, and an afternoon spent there will leave the forenoon free for the inspection of more of the old historic buildings, of which Quebec is full. The quaint little edifice. No. 36 St. lyouis Street, now a barber's shop, was once Montcalm's head-quarters, though he had a private residence on the ran\p.'xrts. A little farther out St. Louis street, Campbell's livery stable marks the site of the\ doctor's office to which Montcalm was carried only to die. I SouS-tE-CAP STREI5T (Narrowest Thoroughfare in America). The brave soldier's sepulchre was a hole made by tlia bursting of a shell in the wall of the Ursuliue Chapel in Parloir Street. This is not the Rue du Par- loir so often mentioned in the letters of the French general and his staff as the abode of Quebec beauties. That was a cul-de-sac, running into the rear of the Seminary where now is the c0.urty.9rd nf the Bishop's Palace at the head of Mountain Hill. The Ursuline Chapel is open to visitors on application — 13 — to \\\G f.jrtUr and contains some interesting relics. At one side of the altar is the grating behind which the cloistered nnns sit, to listen to the service. No. 59 Ivouis street is the hoi'^e which the wicked Intendant Bigot gave to the unscrupulous Madame P^an, and which in those days was considered a palace. Any one interested in the footprints of the past, will be certain to have his attention directed to the " Chien d'Or " in the eastern wall of the Post Office, which keeps green the memory of the sturdy merchant foe of that same wicked Intendant, whose own abode was at the foot of Palace Hill, nix)n the present site of Boswell's Brewery. There are two squares of great interest in the Upper Town, that opposite the Basilica being the site of the old market jilace — while upon the adjoining ground stood the old Jesuit College, in front of which a noisy brook careened down Fabrique street in days of old. The "Ring," as the Place d'Armes is familiarly called, was the courtvard of the old, original fortress of Quebec, the Chateau of St. Louis, whence Frontenac so proudly defied one set of British besiegers. The grand Chateau FVontenac Hotel has been erected upon its site and the splendid accommodation now provided for tourists will make Quebec even more popular than it has been in times past. There is something for every one in this old town, historical ground for the anti- quarian, ample scope for the student of languages, charming walks for the botanist and geologist, endless subjects for artists, both literary and otherwise, and last, but not least, an opportunity unequalled in Canada for the purchase of furs, at the warehouse of Holt, Renfrew & Company. ays '% W^: ST. L,oui3 Gate Hoi.t trots whe« of w ougl Cans — 14 — 4^ FIVE DAY5 IN QUEBEC H E fortunate ixjssessor of five days in Quebec HP will undoubtedly devote a whole one to the Falls of Montmorency, which may be reached either by electric car or by driving? there through the straggling village of Beauport. It is a hilly road, but the Canadian horse ays back his ears, m'^^'.'^s a dash at every hill, and H01.T, RENFREW & Go's Moosii Yard, (Montmorency_Falls). trots up and down with no semblance of a brake on the wheels behind, If you have chosen a coupe, a vehicle of which the cover can be thrown bav-^k, you will thor- oughly enjoy the study in houses afforded by the Canadian dwellings, each with its steep roof, from — 15 — which project one or more tiers of windows. Every house juts out a little beyond its neighbor in its desire to dodge the east wind, lo your surpri.se, you are told that this long street reaching to the Falls, is inhabited mostly by farmers, who have built their hotises close together for warmth and convenience iv winter time, when only one road is pa.s.sable. The farms extend in long, narrow strips behind the hou.ses, sometimes stretching far back into the country. At the Beauport- Flats in July^ 1759, Wolfe made his first attempt to break the line of Montcalm's entrench- ment and was beaten back with the loss of many of his gallant Highlanders. The Falls themselves you hav^e already .seen from the train going to Ste. Anne^ but you will be unlike most people if you do not rejoice at the prospect of a nearer view to become more in sympathy with the.se pine woods and this tum.))ling ma.ss of water. Lunch can be haa at the Kent House which is of hi.storic interest, having been the sunnner residence oY the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father. It is situated on the bank of the Montmorency River, and an hour or so may be pleasantly spent there in vi.siting the many points of vantage from which different views of the Falls may be had. During the past year many new attractions have been added to the Duke of Kent grounds, and the collection of Canadian live animals. The latest addition to the latter is a beaver family, which is given every opportunity to enjoy its freedom in an enclo.sed tracfl of land, with a pretty brook run- ning through it. These, with the collection of animals, are the property of Holt, Renfrew & Co., Quebec. The surroundings of the Falls are all beautiful, par- cularly the Natural Steps, which stand in the same relation to Montmorency as the Rapids do to Niagara. The vigorous river is .seen cutting its way through the deep, rocky g^rge in its impatience to hurl itself ove** the cliff, and the terraces so formed in the rocks on either side are the natural .steps, which you must not fail to .see. It is a charming spot with its own his- torical association — like every other place about Que- bec. The armies of Wolfe and Montcalm were camped for a time on opposite sides of this turbulent stieani, and some " sniping " was done by both. If you wish to linger late at Mon mrency, you can return by train, but lovelier by far is t j drive back perchance by moon- light. The electric lights of Quebec shining in the dis- tance through the evening haze, make it truly the most wonderful of cities ' ' set on a hill which cannot be hid." — i5'— 1 SIX DAYS IN QUEBEC "j V your stay be of this duration the mountain air I will have had its bracing effect, and in spite of the amount of sight-seeing you have done, in spite of the hills which > m have climbed both inside and outside of th i city, you will feel quite equal to risinn at six or seven o'clock in order to visit the Champluiti Market in Lower town before breakfast, when, on market days, the buying and selling are at their height. Most of the pioduce has been brought from parishes up oi down the river by the market steamers, which lie three oi four abreast along the quay. The open space outside of the large stone market building is planked over ; and upon it the " habitants" sit with tb.eir green stuff spread out on the boards around them. There they gesticulate and vociferate to as.sist then />a/ois, with an energy in- describable. This part of the Lower Town, which you have already had a bird's eye view of from the Terrace, has a past as well as a pre- sent i interest, for it was in this neigh- borhood that Champlain erected the first building ■ of Quebec in 1608. Not far off is the old- est church in the city, perhaps also the oldest in Canada — Notre -Dame des Victoires, Cuukch of Ndtre-Dame des Victoires. - 17 — ' built in thankfulness for deliverance from besiegers of the 17th Century. After breakfast you will be ready for a drive, and this time it shall be out to Jeune Lorette in a caleche, that jaunty, hooded, two-wheeled vehicle peculiar to Quebec, which reminds one of a covered buggy on stilts. Its height makes it rather hard to descend from, and therefore it were best not to take a caleche except for an uninterrupted drive. On the road tu Jeune Lore'cte the characteristics of French Canada will be apparent and at the village itself dwell the last remnants of the Hurons. They have intermarried largely with their French neighbors, but the Indian features and habits still predominate. I Little Champi,ain Street There is a very pretty waterfall in the village, and less than a mile farther on is the reser\'oir, formed by the damming back of the St. Charles river, which pro- vide.' Quebec with water. That is a delightful .spot to partake of the lunch which you have doubtless brought with you, and if you be of an adventurous turn you may take a canoe and paddle all tlie way up to iyake St. Charles, one of those lovely inland sheets of water within easy driving distance of Quebec. Re- turning from Jeune Lorette you may pass through the village of Charlesbourg, and will return to town with enough remaining energy for an evening stroll on the Terrace, to watch the lights spring out in the L,ower Town and in Levis over the way, or if the weather be unfavourable, there is Quebec's new Theatre, the '"Auditorium," with its indoor attractions. — 18 — t I t SEVEN DAYS IN QUEBEC F you spend a week in Quel^ec, one ot your I days must of necessity be a Sunday, and there are many churches from which to choose. Quebec is a city of bands and bells, much in evidence through the week, but so rampant upon the Sabbath that the laziest tourist turns out to learn the why and wherefore. Upon a stately square near the Terrace where once the Recollets had a church and convent, stands the English Protestant Cathedral. It is a fine old build- ing, surrounded by beautiful linden trees, and contains tattered flags which create a romantic interest. They were left there by the 69th Regiment of the British Army when it was presented with new colors in 1870. One of the spectacles on Sunday mornings is the as.sembling of the Canadian regulars in the Cathedral Square after Service, and their quick march off to the Citadel headed by the regimental band. St. Matthew's Church, on St. John Street, is surrounded on three sides by an interesting old burying ground, in which, near the street, is a t o m b-s tone erected to the memory of a brother of Sir Walter Scott. Among the Roman Catho- lic Churches the Basilica has, of course, thebestmusic; Engush Cathedrai, — 19 — but those who want an English speaking preacher must go to St. Patrick's Church, the large edifice upon McMahon Street. A sermon from nature may be found in a Sunday afternoon walk upon the Glacis, where one cannot be driven. vStrolling along the heights one is elevated physically and spiritually by the sight of those peace- ful blue mountains upon the horizon and the quiet-flow- ing St. Lawrence far below. Even the Martello Towers no longer suggest wars nor rumors of wars, for in these times of peace they do but keep watch upon the squads of red-coated golfers, who during the week pursue their little white balls over the historic Plains of Abraham. If yon can tear yourself away from that "happy hunting ground," take a turn down Eacbevroti^re Street and hear the nuns sing their vespers at four o'clock, in the chapel of Le Bon Pasteur. There are two Presbyterian, one Methodist and a Baptist Church, at which morning or evening service may be attended ; and some part of the day you will be sure to find your way to the Terrace, for an airing there seems indespensable upon Sunday to every resident of Quebec, even if he be but of one week's standing. Chate.\u Frontenac from the IvOwer Town — 20 — EIGHT DAYS IN QUEBEC O far the attention of the tourist has been con- ^ fined to the north side of the river, and be- fore this time he has probably been tempted to take a run over to Point Levis and to ramble up and down that queer, old town, which for steep streets, fine views, and French-speaking population, rivals even Quebec itself. A more complete expedition maybe made by taking the Island boat as far as St. Joseph, landing there and taking an electric car of the Levis County Railway as far as St. Romuald, returning thence to Quebec by boat. In this way a pleasant forenoon may be spent visiting the modern forts on that side of the river, instructive in themselves and altogether delightful from the charm- ing prospect they command. The afternoon's drive should be out the St. Louis or St. Foye Road to " Sandy Banks," a steep descent to the level of the St. Charles valley, from the top of which the wide stretch of country is seen to great ad- vantage. The drive can be continued around a loop of the Little River, as the St. Charles is familiarly called, and its varied scenery, the frequent glimpses through the trees, of the shallow, stony stream with its high, wooded b-^nks are a complete change from the grandeur of the mighty St. Lawrence. There is an old-fashioned Catholic cemetery upon that road, where the " fourteen stations" are marked by as many iron crosses and the appropriate pictures. The return to town is through the large and thickly populated suburbs of St. Sauveurand St. Roch's, each with its huge parish church, that of the former having its ceiling decorated with som^e extremely realistic pictures. More interesting still is the General Hospital which used to be a mile from the city but is now embraced by it. Part of the building, now a home for the aged poor, dates back to the 17th century. It was here that the Ursulines, the nuns of the H6tel-Dieu and many private citizens took refuge with the Hospitalieres from the British cannon balls in the siege of 1759. In the well known novel " The Span o' Life," which treats of this period, the heroine v/atches the battle between the armies of Wolfe and Montcalm, from a window in this building. — 21 — NINE DAYS IN QUEBEC O R the ninth day in Quebec, a drive out the l-H Charlesbourg Road is recommended. The first point of interest thereupon is the ' ' horn- work' ' at the back of " Ring-field." This is the re- mains of the earthwork upon which so much Canadian labor was expended by command of Montcalm, who intended to make his last stand there should the British land in over- whelming numbers upon the Beauport shore, where they were expecfted. Un- fortunately for the French, they turned up on the Plains of Abraham, where they were not expected. Nowadays, the entrenchment looks like a bowling green, surrounded by a fine high grassy bank for spec- tators, but it must have presented a far different appear- ance when cannon-mounted and with tall pillars next to the entrance facing the bridge of boats across the St. Charles. Near that spot, at the junction of the Little River with a still smaller tributary, stands the monument marking the place where Jacques-Cartier spent his first winter in Canada (1535-6). The name of Breboeuf. the martyr missionary, is cut upon the same stone be- cause it was here too that the Jesuits built their first mission-house a century later. Driving through the village of Charlesbourg, one of the most conspicuous of the " cities of the plain," and taking a turn near the church, one arrives at Beau- manoir, known as Chateau Bigot, said to have been the country residence of the infamous intendant of that name. The Chateau is a ruin, not much to look at, but full of historical associations, and it has a good right to be haunted, if ever a ruin had. It stands in a field on an open space surrounded by thick woods, and the drive there and back, especially in a caleche, in September, when the leaves are beginning to show the first signs •of autumn, is a thing that will not soon be forgotten. If this expedition occupies the forenoon, the after- noon may be devoted to a sail up the river, and a land- ing at New lyiverpool to see the fine pictures in the church ; or a trip farther on to Chaudiere, though It would take more than a day to exhaust the attractions of the latter place ivith its wonderful waterfall. — 22 — If the afternoon should be wet, as afternoons have a trick of being in this mountainous district, there is always Holt, Renfrew & Co.'sto fall back upon, with its politest of staffs, who «peak French and English equally well, its large work rooms full of the prettiest Canadian maidens, and its drying room filled with the finest skins that the Hudson Bay regions and the Lab- rador coast can provide. Queen Victoria herself fell a victim to the spirit of envy when she saw the exhibit of this firm at the Indian and Colonial Exhibition in London, and she "became a customer to a large extent. The framed document in the elevator car testifies to whom it may concern that Holt, Renfrew and Company 2a^ bona fide " FURRIERS TO THE QUEEN " ; and the different Gov- ernors of Canada and their suites find that loyalty, taste and economy induce them to follow her illustrious example. The .sleigh robes presented by the ladies of Canada to the Duchess of York upon her wedding, were, as a matter of course, bought there ; and when, in igoi, she visited Quebec in company with the Duke of York, now Prince of Wales, thev made many and varied purchases, and w^re af terwa'-ds plea.sed to issue a Royal Warrant appoiniing Holt, Renfrew & Co, Furriers to His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales. Chateau Bigot — 23 TEN DAYS IN QUEBEC H E drive to Lake Beauport and back by Laval, T^ is a whole day trip, but it will be a most memor- able one to the man who is fond of the wildest lake and mountain scenery combined. The allotted time has sped and nothing has been seen of the magnificent docks of Quebec and Levis which cost about three millions of dollars ; nothing has been said of spending c whole day at Lake St. Joseph or at Grande Riviere, the next station on the Railway beyond Ste. Anne, from which one can drive through most picturesque woods to the lovely falls on the Ste. Anne river ; nothing of St. Augustine and Lake Calvaire, which are beyond Cap Rouge ; nothing of the steamer trip up the Saguenay, which takes but two days from Quebec ; nothing of the many charming watering places down the river which becomes salt just below the Isle of Orleans ; but it is pleasant to leave a town with the feeling that you have not half exhaust- ed its resources. In time you will get into the habit of making a year- ly trip to Quebec, to combine business and pleasure by enjoying the beauty of town and country, and prepar- ing for the assaults of winter from the extensive stock of Yours respectfully, HOLT, RENFREW & COMPANY. SPECIAL NOTICE m m To American and Other Visitors to Quebec ^ ^ ^ ^ HOLT, RENFREW ea Co's ESTABLISHMENT Is sitvjatert in the Central Part of tne Vpper Town, Directly Opposite the BaLSilica a.nd within a. few Minutes' Wa-lkoftKePrincipa-I Hotels ^ ^ Visitors should not leave Quebec Without Seeing HOLT, RENFREW (^ GO'S— = Magnificent Display of Furs & Fur Garments Which will be shown with pleasure and without solicitation to purchase BRAINCM 5 KING STREET EAST, TORONTO. IkuTchhdh Ky TheWINTER RESORT • . OF CAN ADR- i Before Leaving Quebec ei f Take the Electric Car to MONTMORENCY FALLS and See Our Collection of Live Animals at Kent House. HOUT, RBINRREW