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Photograidiic
Sdences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
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THE
CONTAINING THE ROUTES TO
TXiuawcu, AitdbtC) atiV tHe apcMgn,
WITH THE
TOUB or MB'vir-BiroxiAini,
AND THE ROUTE TO THE
COAL MINES OF PENNSYLVANIA.
Embellished with nineteen Maps 4ind eight Landscapes.
SECOND EDITION, IMPROVED AND EXTENDED.
WeUi*¥otfe:
PUBLISHED BY A. T. GOODRICH.
J. & J. HARPER, PRINTERS.
I
1826.
4 '" ■•\
Southern DUtriet tf NevhYork, m.
BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the 8th day of May,
in the fiftieth year of the Independence of the United States
of Ameriea, A. T. GOODRICH, of the said District, has
deposited in this oflfice the title of a book, the right whereof
he claims as Proprietor, in the words foHowing, to wit :
The Northern Traveller • containing the Routes to Niagara,
Quebec and the Springe, with the Tour of NeuhEngtand,
and the Route to the Coal Minee of Pennsylvania. —
Embellished with nineteen Maps, ana eight Landscapes.
— Second Edition, improved and extended.
In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States,
entitled, ** An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by
•ecoring the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the au-
thors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein
mentioneo."' And also to an Act, entitled, ''An Act, sup-
plementary to an Act, entitled an Act for the encourage-
ment of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts,
and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies^
during the times therein mentioned, and extending the bene-
fits thereof to the arts of desh^oing, eng^ving, and etching
historical and other prints."
JAMES DILL,
Clerk of the Southern District of New-York,
\'
^ PREFACE
TO THE SECOND EDITION.
\.:
The ready sale of the first edition of the Northern Trayeller,
during the last season, has encouraged the publication of an-
other on the same plan, with an extension of the routes, and
the addition of many embellishments.
The present volume, therefore, contains the original tours
to Niagara, the Springs, and Quebec, much enlarged and im-
proved; and to these have been added the tour to the
Coal Mines of Pennsylvania, and that of the New-EngUnd
States, with brief descriptions of several cities, indnding
Boston, New- York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington,
and Charleston. The type is small, and the matter com-
pact ; so that the volume, although of a convenient pocket
size, contains as much matter as an ordinary octavo of four
hundred pages.
Material additions have also been made to the einbelliahr.
ments of the work. Four new landscapes have been engraved
for this edition, copied from recent drawings, besides three
new maps, one of which presents a general view of the routes.
The work now contains eight landscapes and nineteen maps.
To these have been superadded in a part of the edition, eight
of Melish^s correct and beautiful maps of the environs of Bos-
ton, New- York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington,ChRr1ei!-
ton, Nis^ara Fa|ls, and the Springs.
.^
/*
■^
ft
rfm*
I*
IV
PREFACE.
As important changes are continually taking place in dif-
ferent ^arts of the country included in the tours, only a limited
number of copies of the second edition have been published,
proportioned to the number of travellers in a single season ;
and it is intended to make such alterations and improvements
in the work, from year to year, as subsequent circumstances
may seem to require.
A conviction of the importance of such a woik to the nume-
rous and intelligent travellers who annually visit the northern
parts of this country, first suggested the publication of the
Northern Traveller ; and the readiness with which it has
passed into their hands, for a similar reason, seems to require
its extension and improvement, that its usefulness may be
proportioned to its demand. Indeed, it could not be regarded
as a mattw of indifference, that a little work prepared in such
haste, and necessarily very imperfect, should be again offered
to travellers of taste and intelligence, as a fit companion and
a citable guide for an extensive and deUghtftd tour. In
order to add to the pleasure and improvement of travelling,
and at the same time to do more justice to the interesting
scenes with which the country abounds, much care has been
taken and much labour bestowed, which, should they prove
successful, will be considered amply rewarded.
■.■'/: ^:>.^*5 ".?» *ht..!^'
•» ?r
i^<
I-
Central Slrtanstment*
{For partictdars, see Index, page 369.)
Pajo
PHILADELPHIA.
Tour to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines 9
NEW-YORK 22
From New- York to Albany, by Hudson River. . 26 — 42
t Albany to Lebanon Springs 44 — 4S
Albany to Niagara, by the Canal 50 — 95
Niagara to Albany, by Stage Coaches . • . 99^120
Route to the Springs 121 — 157
Lakes George and Champlain 167^-192 & 224^227
MONTREAL 192
QUEBEC 208
Tour of JfeW'England 231—272
BOSTON ••••• ..• 2S7
Route to the White J^iounttdna, , 291 — 317
Route to Maine 318 — 333
Supplement and Appendix 335—382
■ ' ■ 1 .. ' • • - i " ' "• - • '
1 » r ; > > -' ■ i - , • ' I j
r
I
\
\ %
Pago
Notch House, White Mountains S'^^v^g Title
Scenery on the Mohawk River 60
Niagara, from below the Falls 86
Ballston 140
Saratoga 148
Lake George 161
Ticonderoga 225
Mount Holyoke 255
General Map of the Routes 5
Hudson River, No. 1 26
No. 2 30
No. 3 37
No. 4 and Canals, to Schenectady and
Sandy Hill 50
Erie Ganal, to Herkimer 59
to Salina 64
to Rochester 75
toLockport ..^ 79
toBuffalo 99
• ' > Lyons and Palmjfra 106
Syracuse to Cayuga Marshes Ill
From Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George. . 158
Lake George and Lake Champlain 170
Lake Champlain 185
St. John's to Montreal (87
Island of Montreal 197
St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec .... 203
Connecticut Ri«'er, from Hartford to the Mouth. . . . 236
The following maps are also bound up in a part of the
edition, and may be had with the book, ftdl bmnd and gilt,
for one dollar more, viz. the environs of Boston, New-
Tork, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Charleston,
Falls of Niagara, and Ballston and Saratoga.
tcing Title
■••«•••••
••■•••••t
■ ••••••••
i'age
60
86
140
148
161
225
255
» *
5
26
• •■•••••• »*•
ectadj and
60
••••••••• o"
••••••••• w4
:.. 79
99
106
••«>••••• All
George.. 158
170
185
187
197
lebec .... 203
Vfouth 236
in a part of the
( bound and gilt,
■ Boston, New-
on, Charleston,
iga.
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THE
NORTHERN TRAVELLER.
THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA.
Hotels. — Mansion House, in 3d street, between Wal-
nut and Spruce. Judd*s, 3d, between Market and Cbesnut.
Boarding Houses. — Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ;
Mrs. Swords, Walnut ; Mrs. Allen, 6Ui, near the State
House.
Philadelphia is the second city, for size, in the United
States ; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets,
which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and
are of an equal and convenient breadth. Some of the
public buildings are worthy of particular notice, as among
the finest and most correct specimens of architecture in
the country.
It will be convenient to the stranger to recollect, that
the streets running north and south are named First,
Second, Thirdf &c. beginning on both sides of the city on
the bauks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they meet
at the square near the centre. The streets which run
east and west, are generally named after trees ; the lanes
and alleys, after shrubs, &c.
The Market. — ^This consists of a succession of build-
ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the
fish market on the river^s bank to Eighth-street, alSbrding
room for a convenient display of the numerous articles
daily brought in for the supply of the city.
Post office, Chesnut-st. between Third and Fourth.
Th& Baxk of the United States, in Chesnut-street,
between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimen
of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built of
white marble in the form of a temple, with two fronts,
B
6
THE NORTHERN
each ornamented with eight fine Doric columns, of the
ancient proportions, without bases. Beside the banking
room, which is large, occupying the centre, and lighted
through a glass dome, there are many other apartments^
particularly those devoted to the printing of the notes,
and that below, which contains the furnace for wanning it
with Lehigh coal in the winter.
Gerard*s Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. This
building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful roit of
six Corinthian columns.
The Bank of Pennstltania, opposite, has two fronts,
on Second and Dock streets, each with six Ionic columns.
This is another chaste and beautiful building of white
marble.
The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth
and Sixth streets, is a large brick building, with court
houses, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of the
main entrance, the old Continental Congress held their
sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independence was
signed, July 4th, 1776.
Above is Feale's Museum, which contains a large col-
lection of curiosities of various descriptions. The birds
are very numerous, but not well preserved. The huge
skeleton of a mammoth will attract particular attention,
being represented entire, for the parts which were de-
ficient on one side, have been supplied by imitations of
those on the other.
The ATHBNiBUH is adjoining, open all day to strangers.
The Philosophical Society's Library and Cabinet.
Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of ground,
behind the State House. Opposite to it, in Walnut-street,
is the State Prison, built of dark stone, and connected
with a yard enclosed by high walls.
CfTT Library, Fifth-street, open to the public from
2 P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's clock.
Washington Square is on the other side of Sixth-
street, with a handsome church on the southern side, with
a range of wooden columns.
The Pennsylvania Hospital is a large and adng{,irab1e
institution, in the next street, where great numbers of
sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure admis-
sion to the building and gardens, and also to the top.
t
TRAVELLER.
et. This
ful row of
70 fronts,
columns*
of white
een Fifth
ith court
ast of the
leld their
ience was
large col-
rbe birds
rhe huge
ittention,
were de-
lations of
trangers.
Cabinet.
r ground,
iit-street,
onnected
)Iic from
i*8 clock.
>f Sixth-
ide, with
dniirable
nbers of
e admii!-
top.
*m
I
West^s Celebrated Picture of Christ healing the
sick, is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite
side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded
by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are
observed many afBicted with various diseases, pressing
forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman,
borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a
stdking contrast with her cadaverous aspect; and the'
painter has given a reddish tint lo her feet, which seem
to have already felt the miraculous influence. A blind
man appears behind, led by his sons ; and on the left
hand is an infant supported by its mother, with a poor
blind girl and other figures. Near the centre is a
lunatic boy, rather too shocking a subject for such a pic«
ture; and a number of Jewish RaLbis are collected,
with countenances expressive of violent passions.
The apartment is admirably calculated for the display
of the picture, which is universally considered one of the
finest and most interesting in the United States.
The Theatre, in Chesnut-street, between Sixth and
Seventh streets, has a marble front, with the entrance
under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy and
Tragedy.
The Masonic Hall is a little beyond, and somewhat
in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front.
The Academy of Arts, Chesnut-street, between Tenth
and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, busts, &c.
in marble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted
Arom the top ; and beyond, a gallery of pictures with
many specimens of the works of American artists, par-
ticularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous, that of
the dead body restored to life by the bones of the prophet
Elisha.
Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite the
State House, and contains fine pictures.
The University contains a medical department and the
Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c.
The Orphans* and the Widows' Asylums are in the
western part of the city.
•Academy of JV*a^ Sciences, PenrCs hmsCf Letitia court*
United States minti &c. &c, ;*
p>^■
8
THE NORTHERN
There are two medicd institutile and a
the great
isent an
3. The
r of the
presents
sidences
a beau*
3 also a
ver gar-
th a few
stands
it to the
' Joseph
f Spaiti'.
It is a long tvhite building with two low square towers at
the ends, and a shot tower near it by the river.
♦
TRENTON,
33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Union Line
steam boats stop, except when the water is low ; when
they sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton is a
town of considerable size, with a great number of stores,
and the aspect of business.
Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and
apparently forms a part of Trenton.
The State Prison is situated a little south of tho
town.
Delaware and Rariton Canal. The route for a
canal between these two rivers, was determined in 1825.
It is to lead from the Delaware at Lamberton through
Trenton ; and passing the Lawrence meadows, and along
the valley of Stoney Brook and Millstone Brook, follow the
course of the Rariton for some distance before it joins it.
It is to be 60 feet wide, with 8 feet of water, correspond-
ing with the Chesapeake and Delaware canal. The feeder,
40 feet wide with 5 feet of water, is to begin on the Dela-
ware, nearly opposite the mouth of the Lehigh ; and with
the main trunk, will measure 84 miles. The summit
level is 48 feet.
The portion of New Jersey lying between Philadelphia
and New- York, was of great importance in the revolu-
tionary war. A great part was, for a time, occupied by the
British, and it was the scene of bloodshed.
^ In Dec. 1776, the English had '4000 men on the east
side of the Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black-
horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Prince-
ton and New Brunswick, with their magazines.
On Christmas night, three divisions of the American
troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol
for Burlington ; one a mile below Trenton ; and one nine
miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was
the largest, but principally militia ; it approached Tren-
ton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unexpect-
edly, and putting the English and German troops (about
1500) to the rout. 600 escaped^- the rest sun'endered,
90
THE NORTHERN
being the regiments of Ralle, Anspach, and Knyphausen.
Ralle was killed in resisting. The other divisions could
not cross on account of the ice, and Washington returned
with his captives and six pieces of artillery. This suc-
cessful stroke greatly encouraged the country, as it was
the first victory over those German mercenaries.
Washington, soon after, recrossed the river, and posted
his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan. 1777, Lord
Cornwallis reached Trenton; and Washington fortified
himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too weak to
hazard an enge^ement ; and the Delaware being filled with
ice, he resolved, if possible, to change the nature of tho
war, and place the enemy on the defensive, by threatening
his magazines and his line of communication.
Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed the plan
of a retreat, expecting to be unable to remove any
thing but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the
soil was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and
wet, that wagons could not pass. Cornwallis had sent
to Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might
attack the Americans immediately. In the night, how*
ever, Gen. Greene reported that the weather had suddenly
become cold ; and at midnight, Washington wa^ able to
begin his march, with all his bag{;age and artillery. This
was done, and all the fires left burning. The British had
no intimation of their departure until they heard the guns
firing at Princeton.
PRINCETON, 10 miles.
This village is situated on an elevated ridge of land,
which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope,
and commands a prospect of considerable extent.
In approaching it from the west, the Theological Aca*
demy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the
right ; and the old one in the centre of the town, opposite
the stage house. The college yard is large and shaded
with trees ; and the burying ground contains the ashes of
the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, Jonathan
Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John Wither-
spoon, and Samuel S. Smith.
During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a.
TRAVELLER.
21
>hau8en.
IS could
returned
his 8UC-
s it was
d posted
7, Lord
fortified
weak to
lied with
e of tho
eatening
the plan
)ve any
f, as the
tild and
liad sent
le might
It, how«
uddenly
able to
. This
itish had
;he guns
»f landy
slope,
!al Aca-
1 on the
)pposite
shaded
ishes of
>nathan
IVither-
that a
uanon shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head
from a portrait of George IIL
NEW BRUNSWICK.
Here the steam boats start for New- York. The stage
coaches drive through a part of the village to the steam
boat wharf. The forenoon line stops at the hotel for the
night.
The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence the
public buildings appear to good advantage, particularly the
Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of the
Putch Reformed Church. The banks below are pictur-
esque, but afterwards are low and little varied.
In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near
Morristown to Middle Brook, where he entrenched him-
self, on the heights, in full view of New Brunswick. The
British tried various stratagems to decoy him from this
commanding position, and once succeeded ; but discover-
ing their intentions to surround him, he quickly regained
it, and they were soon after obliged to give up all hopes
of penetrating in this direction, and devoted their atten-
tion to co-operating with Gen. Burgoyne, who was coming
down towards Albany.
Perth Ambot, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship-
ping ; but the place has little to attract observation.
Elizabethtown Point, 15 miles from New-York.
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland.
Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few in-
habitants, and a small cluster of houses.
On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in
the Narrows, between Staten and Long Island, which is
the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass of
houses, with Castle Williams on Governor's Island, seen
near it on the right ; and Ellis's and Bedlow's Islands on
the left, with their fortifications. On approaching, the
prominent objects are the tall pyramidal steeple of Tri-
nity church, the more ornamented one of St. Paul's, and
the distant top of the Catholic cathedral, &c. &c. The
clusters of trees observed on the shore in front of the city,
are on the Battery : a place once fortified, but now the
principal public square ; and Castle Clinton, just west of
it, has been converted into a place of amusement.
02
ant
THE NORTHERN
THE CITY OF NEW- YORK.
Hotels, and Boarding Houses. Mansion House^
(Bunker,) 39 Broadway. City Hotel. National Hotel.
Franklin House. Washington Hall, corner of Broadway
and Reid-street. Park Place House. Mrs. Southard,
Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, &c. There are several other
genteel boarding houses in the pleasantest part of Broad-
way, near the Bowling Green and Battery.
The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map of
the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as without it
he will often find himself at a loss, and with it can go to
any part with confidence*
The Battery is a pleasant walk in warm weather ; and
Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On summer evenings
the place is supplied with music, and often fire works.
Broadway, the most fashionable promenade in the city,
is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 3 o'clock ;
or in hot weather, after dinner. Going up it from the
battery, you pass the Bowling Greerif then the Mansion
house, Grace church, and Trinity church.
The property of this church is very great, lying in large
tracts of land now covered by the city streets. (Opposite,
opens WaU-streetf which contains most of the bankSf with
the Branch of the U. S. Bank, together with numerous
Insurance and Brokers' Offices. At the foot of it is the
Tontine Coffee House, for many years the exchange of the
city i a little above which, is the new Exchange^ a building
of white marble, begun in 1825. The post office is in
Garden-street.)
Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is the
CUy Hotel ; opposite, the jv^ational Hotel ; and a little fur-
ther. Cedar and CourtlandstreotSf leading west to the docks
on Hudson River, whence the »^lhany steam boats std^rt. At
the latter street is also the Jersey city ferry — Is.
The Franklin House, corner of Dey-st. and Broad-
way. Fulton-street leads to Fulton Mnrketf on Vie east
river. (There is the lower Brooklt,.^. /'•^fry^ (4 cents ;) at
the next dock below, are the JSTewport and Providence
steam boats; and just above, the steam boats for Flushing^
jSTorwalk, Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford^ Saybrook, Hart-
TRAVELLEU.
23
House^
■I Hotel,
rojidway
)u chard,
oil other
Broad-
; map of
ithout it
mgo to
sr; and
ivenings
>rks.
he city,
'clock ;
Jm the
lansion
in large
pposite,
kSf with
merous
is the
e of the
milding
e is ia
is the
tie fur-
3 docks
art. At
Broad-
he east
ts;) at
uidence
fordf «\Vi/; London, and Jfonoich. The steam boats for
•Wio Haven lie at Fly-market dock, two or three streets
below. For the " Route from New- York to New-Eng-
land," cice Index.)
St. Paul's Church in Broadway is next above Fulton-
street. Just beyond, is Pnff*s exhibition of Pictures, then
the Park, on the opposite side of which, is the Theatre,
and the Bible Society's Depository in the rear. Park
Place on the left, leads to Columbia College ; and the
City Hall is in the Park, with the Debtors^ Prison on the
cast, and Bridewell on the west. Murray-street leads on
the left to Hoboken ferry — Is.
The New- York Institution is behind the City Hall,
with Scudder's fine J^uaeum, the OaUery of Fine Jhrts,
Historicd Society, Mr, TrumbulTs and Mr, Dunlap's
Fainting Rooms, the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. The
Saving's Bank directly opposite. Next these is the
Panorama Rotunda, and opposite the Manhattan Water
Works. Chatham-street beyond, leads to Barriere's
Theatre.
Next beyond, in Broadway, is Washington HaU ; and
two or three streets above, the J^evO'-York Hospital.
This fine, broad street, continues about a mile further
on, perfectly straight, and nearly all built with brick
houses ; but contains no public buildings, except the Cir-
cus, a quarter of a mile on the right-hand, a new Gothic
church, and the Sailors'' Snug Harbour, an hospital.
There is also in the city an Orphan Asylum.
A fine part of the city lies north-west from the hospital,
about Hudson Square. The streets are there more regu-
lar, and the square itself is very fine, with St. John's
church in front, which has the tallest spire in New- York.
Among the other public buildings, which it is not easy
to point out more particularly, are the Roman Catholic
cathedral, and the numerous places of public worship in
all parts of the city. These amounted, in 1824, to 84 in
all, and are probably now very nearly 100. The State-
Prison, Penitentianj, Fever Hospital, House of Refuge for
Juvenile Delinquents, Lunatic Asylum : these are all at a
distance from the centre of the city. The Common School
Society have ten school houses, where 4 or 5000 chil-
dren are instructed on the Lancasterian svstem : either
u
THE NORTHERN
{[ratuitously, or at a trifling expense of from \s, to 95. per
quarter. The High School received scholars in higher
branches. The Sunday Schools deserve particular notice
for their usefulness; also the Mechanic Society's
School.
The Athenaum is a literary institution lately formed.
The CUy Library is large, and there are others belonging
to the Societies of Merchants* Clerks, Apprentices, &c.
There are Circulating Libraries at several of the book
stores in Broadway.
The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty
and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its efficiency
and usefulness. There are 42 engines, besides two Hook
and Ladder companies.
The City Hall contains the common council chamber,
with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, Jefferson, and
Thompson ; the court rooms, police office, &c. &c. The
top commands a fine view of the city ; and access may
be had on applying to the keeper.
The Liverpool Packets are fine vessels, and some of
them among the most elegantly furnished ships in the
world. They lie at different docks in the east river ; and
sail on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of every month, and
returning, leaiM^Liverpool on the same days. The letter
bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee House. —
6d. for every letter.
ExcoRsioNS. Numerous pleasant excursions may be
made from New- York in various directions. Manhattan
Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also Long Island
and the neighbouring parts of New-Jersey.
Bath, Rockawat, and Gravesend, on Long Island,
and Long Branch, in New- Jersey,
Fine situations on the seacoast, are among the most
attractive for bathing, &c.
Orange Springs near AVwarX;, and Scholet's Mountain.
These are very fashionable resorts during the warm sea«
sons, particularly for visiters from New- York. The sit«
uations are very pleasant, in variegated tracts of country ;
and afford a most agreeable retreat, with fine air and
good accommodations.
A
Eas
I
■;sS
H
TRAVELLER.
SNI
to 95. per
in highei*
ar notice
Society's
J formed,
belonging
tices, &c.
the book
r beauty
efficiency
wo Hook
chamber,
'son, and
iic. The
cess may
some of
>s in the
ver; and
nth, and
'he letter
iouse. —
( may be
anhattan
ig Island
Island,
lie most
UNTAUf.
arm sea«
The sit-
ountry ;
air and
TO THE COAL MINES.
A stage coach goes in a day from Powles Hook to
Easton. (See Eastouy page 16.)
There is a Direct Road to Buffalo, through Ithaca.
The following list of books and maps is given for those
ivho may wish for more details concerning the northern
states than we are able to furnish in the present summary
view.
BOOKS.
History of the New- York canals.
Smith's history of New- York.
Picture of New- York and Stranger's guide.
Dr. Dwight's Trayels in the New England states and
New-York.
Professor Silliman's Short Tour to Montreal and Que*
bee, in 18mo.
Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal
Route.
Hibernicus's Letters on the New- York Canal.
Fashionable Tour, or a Trip to the Springs, Niagara and
Quebec.
The Northern Tour, being a Guide to Saratoga, Lake
Geoi^e, Niagara, Canada, Boston, &c.
Spaflbrd's Gazetteer of the State of New- York.
Spafford's Pocket Guide to the Canal Route.
Gazetteers of New Hampshire, Massachusetts and
Vermont.
Yates and Moulton's History of New- York.
Description Topographique de la Province du Bas Ca-
nada, avec des remarques sur la Haute Canada, et sur les
relations des deux provinces d'Am^rique. Par Joseph
Bouchette.
Eddy's Map of the State of New- York.
Vance's Map of the Western part of the sam^e.
Goodrich's Map pf the Hudson River.
Bouchette's maps of Canada.
26 THE NORTHERN
ROUTE FROM NEW- YORK TO ALBANY.
The elegant steam barges Lady Clinton and Van Ren>
selaer arc most convenient, safe and agreeable, and are
recommended.
The following steam boats ply between New- York and
Albany.
Sarato^, Chancellor Livingston, James Kent, Wm.
Penn, Olive Branch, Bristol, Henry Bckford, Constitu-
tion, Constellation, and Chief Justice Marshall.
There are also others to intermediate places. Most of
the Troy and Albany boats, however, stop or touch at
those places. These boats lie about the docks from
Courtlandt to Cedar-street.
There is a great difference in the charges of the boats^
but the accommodations travellers will find on board of
them are generally good, except when they are too much
crowded with passengers. Strangers will generally prefer
the large ones, because they are furnished with an upper
deck, called the promenade, which is sheltered from the
sun by an awning, and affords a much more uninterrupted
prospect, as well as better air. As two or three will go
every day, and the travo.llcr can choose better for himself,
it is unnecessary to maKe any further suggestions, except
that ladies particularly will prefer the barges, unless they
are too much crowded.
The Henry Eckford runs to Albany with two boats for
freight. Passage $1.
Cautions, If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him for
his number, so that if he is negligent or dishonest, he may
be reported at the police office. It is best to go to the
steam boat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of de-
parture, to avoid the crowd which always collects at the
dock. A traveller is too often pressed upon by imperti-
nent fellows, who recommend their own vessels, and urge
him to take passage in them. Such things ought never
to be permitted by the proprietors, although they are ri-
vals ; neither ought they to allow the throngs of porters,
cartmen, &c. who rush in upon deck as soon as the boats
arrive, both here and at Albany, to the annoyance of the
passengers, and the exposure of their property. All tra-
vellers should remonstrate against so unreasonable a prac-
tice ; and if any of the proprietors should see this state-
ANY.
Van Ren>
3, and are
r- York and
[ent, Wm.
, Constitu-
11.
Most of
r touch at
locks from
the boatsy
n board of
> too much
irally prefer
b an upper
1 from the
interrupted
ree will go
for himself,
ons, except
mless they
o boats for
Bisk him for
est, he may
» go to the
time of de-
lects at the
by imperti-
Is, and urge
lught never
they are ri-
of porters,
IS the boats
ance of the
jT. All tra-
able a prac-
this state^
i
I
'V
I- •■■■ »^
■,M
J
■4.;'9
men
con'
whi*
geri
Oi
the I
hind
jectii
the ]
Sand
from
and (
mouti
small
villag
Theh
rapid!
Wash
tery, \
At
and a
spot 1
with(
ed to
>vitbin
for CG
lost
Th
trap r(
on the
lar, an
places
below
lal pn
height
Mar
to slid
up obi
appear
01
W.H,,!.,; KfUlTM
TRAVELLEK.
V
Sf
meat of the grievance, it it to be hoped that they Mrilt be
I'onvinced of its justice, and the necessity of reformation,
whi^h would benefit themselves as well as their passen-
ger* .
PASSAGE UP HUDSON RIVER.
On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in
the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lies be-
hind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams pro-
jecting beyond ; still more distant opens the passage called
the Narrows, with Staten Island on the right, leading to
Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which is 22 miles
from the city. On the west side of the bay are Bedlow
and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the point at the
mouth of the Hudson is Powles Hook, on which stands a
small town in New-Jersey called Jersey City ; and the
village of Hoboken is seen a mile or more up the river.
The hills of Weehawken appear beyond : as the boat moves
rapidly on, it* passes the crowded line of buildings in
Washington-street, the State Prison, and the Jfcrth Bat-
tery.
At Weehawken, under a lodge of rocks facing the river,
and about the distance of 6 miles from the city, is the
spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel
with Col. Burr. A monument of white marble was erect-
ed to his memory on the place ; but it has been removed
within a few years. This is the common duelling ground
for combatants from the city, and many lives have been
lost on this fatal spot.
The Palisadoes — a remarkable range of precipices of
trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the river
on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and form a singu-
lar, and in many places an impassable boundary. In some
places an old red sand-stone foundation is seen appearing
below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the mit-
ral precipices of the trap formation, and rises from the
height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550.
Many little paths will be seen, by which timber is made
to slide down to the water; and aome where carts can go
up obliquely. The trees on the loftier parts of the shore
appear quite dwarfish at such an elevation ; and the rocks;
W.H.lo-'
r.ncria\
mm
28
THE NORTHERN
form a perfect
from
tn many places, lorm a periecc wan ; irom wLose surface,
large masses are often forced off by the frost in winter.
The eastern shore of the river opposite the Palisadoes,
is for many miles handsomely rounded with hills, and pre-
sftnts many scenes of cultivation, which contrast with the
rude cliffs on the left. The soil is inferior ; and the wood
land encroaches too much upon the fields and orchards.
The Lunatic Asylum is seen on the other side, about
7 miles from the city ; and is a large building of hewn
stone, occupying a commanding situation.
Harlaem Heights are a short distance further. They
form an elevated ridge across Manhattan Island, on which
a line of fortifications was thrown up during the Revolu-
tion and the late war, quite over to the East river.
Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated on
the brow of the PdisadoeSf more than 300 feet above the
river.
Fort Washington, nearly opposite.
Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high
rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from
New- York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington
had evacuated the city; and, subsequently to the battle of
White Plains^ (for which see just beyond,) had drawn off
his army to Fort Lee, opposite this place, Furt Washing*
ton was kept garrisoned, contrary to his advice ; and was
attacked in four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeck-
ers under Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north
side ; Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light
infantry and guards, intended against the intrenchments,
which reached almost to the east river. Col. Sterling
made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while
Lord Percy, with a very strong corps was to act against
the western flank.
The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in pass-
ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions in
driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur-
rendered, to the number of 2600 men, including militia.
They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800.
Fort Lee was immediately evacuated ; but the British
crossed so speedily at Dobb's Ferry, that they took the
artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the Amen'
ran armv^
TRAVELLER.
29
se surface,
I winter.
?alisadoes,
Is, and pre-
Lst with the
I the wood
>rchards.
side, about
ng of hewn
her. They
d, on which
he Revolu-
vcr.
situated on
jt above the
p of a high
! miles from
Washington
the battle of
id drawn off
Lt Washing-
e ; and was
id Waldeck-
>n the north
:nglish light
renchments,
3ol. Sterling
lown, while
act against
Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon
after the American troops evacuated New- York ; while
Gen. Washington had his army assembled at Kingsbridge,
and the British were in possession of the island up as far
as Harlaem, Gen. Howe came up the East river, with an
intention of surrounding the Americans. He left his
German corps at New Rochelle, and marched for the high
ground at White Plains, several miles east of the Hudson,
to seize the interior road between the city and Connecticut.
Washington penetrated his design, and entrenched him-
self on the west side of the small river Bronx, with his
right on Valentine's hill, and his left on White Plains.
He had garrisons near Harlaem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort
Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British ap*
proached very near ; when Washington assembled all his
troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains,
with the Bronx in front and on the right flank, and a
mountainous region in the rear. The right was more
accessible ; and Gen. M'Dougal was sent to entrench
himself on a mountain about a mile in front.
On the morning of Oct. 28th, the British advanced in
two columns : the right by Gen. Clinton, and the left by
Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaroneck
road and the latter on the Bronx, — the armies being a
mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell upon
Gen. M*Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him in front
with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the regular
troops resisted until overpowered. The British deter-
mined to wait ; and on the following morning, finding the
American position much strengthened, and a height in
the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more troops
and erected batteries. Washington, therefore, retired to
North Castle ; and soon after, securing the bridge over
the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed to Hudson.
Fort Indbfendence, on the east side. Opposite the^
Palisadoes are of still greater height.
DoBB*s Fbrrt, 10 miles. This is the best point to stop,
if the traveller intends to visit the Grave of Andrew as the
spot is only 21 miles distant, in Tappan. His remains,
however, have been carried to England.
Tarrttown, 3^ miles. This is the place where Mayor
Andre ivas stopped, returning from his visit to Gen.Ar-
30
THE NORTHERN
nold, and on his way to' the British lines. The place was
then neutral ground, as the Americans and EnglLsh lay
encamped above and below. The tree is still standing un-
der which his captors searched him, and the bank near by
had concealed them from his view as he approached
them. The previous life of this interesting young officer,
together with the amiabieness of his disposition, the re-
finement of his education, and the melancholy and igno-
minious fate to which he was brought, by one of the un-
happy concurrences too often produced by war, spread a
deep and universal sentiment of sympathy throughout this
country, which time will never obliterate, and which will
be only perpetuated by our history.
For a detail of the circumstances connected with Major
Andrews capture, the reader is referred to a brief history
of them, introduced in the account of West Point, a few
pages beyond.
The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance
beyond this place, and 40 miles from New-York. This
is a region no less remarkable for the important military
events of which it has been the theatre, than for the gran-
deur and nobleness of its natural scenery. In pointing
out the various positions as we pass along, we shall give
them all a notice, but endeavour to enlarge only on those
whose history demands a more particular attention.
Stony Point. The little rough promontory on the
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands,
was a fortified position during the American war. The
British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again
the same year.
Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the
site of a fort ; but is now ornamented with a handsome
private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are
tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many
fine trees.
FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON,
-•■■■■^- .'--. ^ • ^ 5 miles.
These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the
6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with
Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen.
»lace was
glLsh lay
iding un-
c near by
proached
ig officer,
1, there-
and igno-
r the un-
spread a
;hout this
vhich will
rith Major
ef history
intf a few
t distance
>rk. This
it military
r the gran-
n pointing
shall give
r on those
tion.
iry on the
Highlands,
war. The
ost it again
ras also the
I handsome
anding are
and many
INTON,
itoii, on the
tperate with
;d by Gen.
TM^<*k0r
M
TRAVELLER.
31
Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity to
force his way to Hudson river, by effecting a diversion in
his favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had left New-
York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the fleet, and
landed at Verplanck*s Point. The nest morning a detach-
ment was sent to Stony Point, and marched round in the
rear of these forts, then under the command of Gen. Put-
nam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, part of
whom were unfit for duty, and a small number of militia.
Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Ver-
planck^s Point, and supposing the object of the expedition
to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river, and made
preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their
real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Montgo-
mery and C)«nton, which are near each other, and
were attacked at the same moment. Governor Clinton,
however, and his brother, Gen. James Clinton, had ar-
rived just before Lt. Col. Campbell, with 900 men, at-
tacked the first of the forts, and Sir Henry Clinton and
Generals Vaughan and Tryon the other. The fighting
began between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and
lasted till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250
men, the forts were surrendered ; but all the garrison who
were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the go-
vernor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The British,
proceeding to West Point, removed the chain which had
been stretched across the river to prevent the passage of
their ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir James Wal-
lace, went up to Kingston, with General Vaughan and his
troops. Although they found the village defenceless, the
officers ordered it to be burnt, on the 13th of October.
The British proceeded no further than that place; fortlie
news of Burgoyne's surrender being received a few days
afterward, the fleet returned to New- York.
Anthony's Nose. This mountain rises 12S8 feet from
the river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery
Creek, looking down upon Forts Montgomery and Clinton.
Behind the latter is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those
were thrown who were killed in their defence. Beyond
is the way by which the British troops approached, by
way of Smith's CloVe. Fort Putnam, West Point, &c. are
vj«ible. above.
32
THE NORTHERN
The Gatskill mountains are in sight, apart of Connecti*
cut, the Green Mountains, with a noble view down the
Hudson, extending to New- Jersey, and Harlaem Heights,
Long Island Sound, &c. Even the Lunatic Asylum in
New- York can be discovered. The mountain is accessi-
ble on both sides, and it is proposed to erect a house of
entertainment upon it at the expense of $40,000.
The military stores collected at Peekskill were seized
by the British in January 1777.
As the steam boat proceeds, several points are observed
projecting into the river, some distance above ; and West
Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with the
ruins of Fort Putnam elevated on a commanding emi-
nence, a little beyond, 59S feet above the water level. Of
the latter, travellers have frequently remarked, that it is the
only object in the United States which deserves the name
of ** a ruin ;" but in the view of an European, probably, its
claim would not ap* :ar very substantial, as the elements
have begun their aevastatiens upon it within thirty or
forty years. It is, however, as imposing in size as in po-
sition ; and the view it commands over its wild and moun-
tainous neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our
history, will render it worthy of a visit. There are stUi
three or four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the
place is so often visited, that the path is plain, and leads
to most of the principal objects within it. This fortress
commanded at once the river above and below West Point,
and the passage into a defile which opens through the
mountains westward. That defile was farther defended
by numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks
around it. The summits near Fort Putnam (then Inde-
pendence) were also occupied, but were not fit for ex-
tensive works, although more elevated. The large hewn
stones used in its construction, it is said, were taken
from the shore at West Point, and carried by men up that
tiresome ascent. During the war a fort stood on the op-
posite side of the river, called Fort Constitution.
Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot
is still shown where he cultivated his little garden.
TRAVELLER.
38
'onnecti-
own the
Heights,
tylum in
accessi-
house of
re seized
observed
nd West
with the
liog emi-
evel. Of
A it is the
;he name
t>ably, its
elements
thirty or
IS in po-
id moun-
with our
i are still
, and the
md leads
fortress
:st Point,
ough the
defended
iie peaks
en Inde-
for ex-
'ge hewn
e taken
I up that
I the op-
the spot
WEST POINT.
This was a military position of great consequence in
tbe war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the
point, just over tbe river, to command the channel, while a
strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore be-
low, to the opposite side. This was taken up by the Bri-
tish when they went up to Kingston. Just round the
point, near the margin of the uater, is the cold spring,
from which tbe troops stationed there were supplied with
water.
The Military Acadbmt of the United States
is located at West Point ; and a more delightful situation
for such an institution could hardly have been selected. It
is designed for the instruction of young men destined for
the army ; and secondarily for maintaining the military
science in the country. Tbe Academy was established in
1802 by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the instruc-
tion of Cadets. The number of pupils is confined to 250 ;
and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of revolu-
tionary officers are allowed the first claim, and those chil-
dren of officers of the last war, whose fathers are dead,
the next. In 1825, there were about 30 professors, in-
strueters, and assistants. Some of the Cadets affis 'd as-
sistance in instructing, for which they receive ad'' tional
pay. The law prohibits admission under 14 ye? . a of age.
It has been made a subject of complaint, however, that
too large a proportion of those admitted are the sons of
wealthy parents not designed for the army, while the poor
are almost debarred from the gratuitous advantages of
such an education.
The level on which the buildings of the institution are
erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap-
pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The
annual expense of the institution to the United States is
t^l 15,000. The sum paid for the education of a cadet is
about $330 per ann. The library consists of a large and
valuable collection of books, on the various branches of
military science, w^ich have been obtained with great as-
siduity and no small expense from Europe.
D 2
34
THE NORTHEKN
The buildinga belonging to the institution are five ; all
large, and built of stone. There are, besides, sii brick
buildings for the officers and professors ; near the water,
some old military store houses, which contain arms, &c.
used in the revolution. The barracks were lately burnt.
The course of study is completed in four years, each
being devoted to a class ; and includes the French lan-
guage, drawing, natural and experimental philosophy,
chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and
national faw, mathematics in the highest branches, and
lastly, artillery and engineering.
Study concludes each day at 4, P. M. and it succeeded
by the parade, which lasts till sunset.
One of the particular spots worthy of attention, is
Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion, on the east side of the
river, whiich was made the head quarters of the several
officers who were at different periods invested with the
command of this important part of the country. It was
resorted to at different times by most of our distinguished
revolutionary men, and is the place where Arnold was
stationed when he so basely deserted his country's cause.
In September 1780, while the British held possession of
Hudson River up to the borders of the Highlands, and
Gen. Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was
carried on by him with the British officers on the subject
of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their
designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting
should be held.
Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw Bay,
to a place which had been appointed for the conference.
A man by the name of Smith had been sent on board by
Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about an ho-
nourable treaty witli Great Britain, and he accompanied
Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long Clove,
on the west side of the river. Here they found Gen.
Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, according to
appointment.
So long was this interview in coming to a close, that the
day dawned about the time of its termination, and the
approaching light put it out of the power of Miy. Andre
to pass in safety the posts at Yerplank's and Stony Points.
TRAVELLER.
35
i'^-'
IS
He was tberefare obliged to retire to Smith's house, and
change his dress for a plain disguise.
General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under the
name of John Anderson ; and on the following evening
he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a guide.
They rode that night to McKoy's, aftergoingeightornine
miles ; and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge, over Cro-
ton River. Here he parted with Smith, and proceeded
alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American
lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was
discovered by three men, who were concealed from hioi
behind a bank ; and one of them suddenly stepping from
under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bri-
dle. Andre was put o£f his guard, either b]^ a sense of
security, or surprue, and thoughtlessly demanded where
he was from. " From below," replied the man, meaning
from the British party. " So am I,'' replied Andre ; and
he immediately informed him of his being a British offi-
cer, travelling on urgent business.
When he discovered that the strangers were New- York
militia-men, on a scout between the lines, he offered his
watch as a ransom for his liberty ; but having searched
his clothes, they found proof of his designs, and refused
to release him. They found in his boots a description of
the works at West Point, with returns of all the forces of
the garrison, in the hand writing of Arnold.
This happened on the 23d of September. A messenger
was immediately sent to General Washington ; and, at An-
dre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold to in-
form him that Anderson was taken. The latter messen-
ger arrived first ; and Arnold, as raon as he learnt the
truth, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang into his
boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board the
Vulture. He appeared agitated, but the cause was then
unknown ; priming his pistols again, and inquiring if
they had arms on board. He tied his handkerchief to
his cane, and used it for a signal in passing the forts. As
soon as Gen. Washington was informed of Andre's cap-
ture, he despatched Col. Hamilton to Verplanck's Point to
stop him ; but he arrived too late, and Arnold escaped on
l»oard.
On the 29th of September a board of -officers was ap-
<-
«D
THE ISOUTHERN
pointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him
to suffer death as a spy. Objeetions were made to this
sentence, on the ground that Andre had been intriNluced
intc the American camp under the passport of one ot uur
officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being made the con-
dition of his release, and that being refused by the British,
he was kept in prison until the 2d day of October, when
he was hung at the town of Tappan, ^here his body was
afterward interred.
The feeling which this necessary but melancholy event
produced in the minds of our counirymen, was sincere,
deep, and permanent ; and those who acknowledged that
the sentence was just, and his fate in those circumstances
unavoidable, lamented the ignominious death of a man
of such a noble, interesting character, and one who had
risen to a distinguished staiion at an early age. His life
was published and widely circulated in the United States ;
and there is scarcely a child to be found at this day, who
has not mourned over the sorrowful tale of Me^or Andre.
A few years since the British government sent to this
country to obtain his remains, which were removed to
England and placed in the family vault of the then Prince
Regent. A cypress tree which grew over his grave was
likewise removed to the garden of the present king. The
roots of this tree were found to have twined themselves
about the skull.
At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe several
remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, for
which he is referred to the Map. Putnam*s Rocr was
rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a party
of soldiers directed by General Putnam.
Newburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, C
miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build-
ings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the river
to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communica-
ting, by a steam boat, with the great western turnpike at
Cayuga Bridge.
Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of
one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill
which slopes handsomely to the shore.
A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the Che-
xnunk Springs* ^ ., ^ *
U)^
iced him
I to this
TiNluced
e ot our
the con-
I British,
jr, when
)ody was
Ay event
I sincere,
Iged that
ntitances
if a man
who had
His life
1 States ;
day, who
>r Andre,
it to this
moved to
Bn Prince
;rave was
ing. The
lemselves
re several
river, for
tocK was
y a party
le size, G
me build-
the river
nmunica-
rnpikc at
he eye of
r of a hill
the Che-
m-tr
H-
.iW»r<*
"k
i
Boolter
B^wy
TRAVELLEU.
47
/^
JSi
^
1#
f{J I
lliiudsou
FiSHKiLL Mountain. — The summitfl, called North and
South Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a dis-
tance of 4 miles, command a fine view over tbc surround-
ing country, and the river, which appears, interrupted by
the Highlands, like a number of lakes. It has been pro-
posed to erect a house there for the accommodation of
visiters, and the place affords a convenient garden spot,
with a fine stream, which would furnish a supply of wa-
ter for baths ; and a little to the east, a cavern, which
alwavs contain? a quantity of ice, oven in the warmest
weather. Fort Putnam is in sight, and it is said that land
may be seen in seven different states. Many villages, as
well as the river, are included by the view, particularly
that of Matteawan, a manufacturing place. Wappinger's
Creek has a beautiAil island at its mouth, well stocked
with rabbits.
PouoHKBBrsiB IS worthy of a particular description, as
it is a place of considerable importance, and has a singu-
lar situation. There are three or four rough and rocky
projections on the shore, which break up the streets of
the village, and are partly occupied with houses and gar-
dens. The effect is peculiar.
For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular
elevation, but are cut through by several streams, which
afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed
at their mouths, where a sloop or two receive their car'^
goes of timber or produce for New- York.
f>>
^O
SS CO.
I
THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS.
As the traveller proceeds, he at length discovers the dis-
tant ridge of the Catskill mountains, which limit the view
in that direction for many miles, and form a grand feature
in the scene. On account of their great elevation, they
seem less distant than they really are ; and although they
present so imposing an appearance when directly opposite,
they no where approach nearer to the river than 8 miles,
and in some places retire 15 and even 20.
An excursion to the summit of these mountains is per-
formed by great numbers of travellers ; and indeed has
become so favourite an enterprise, that it may very pro-
perly be ranged among the principal objects in the great
Soalter
3S
THE NORTHERN
tour wbicb we are just commencing. The visit may be
accomplished in one day, though two or three may be
agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the grand and
beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood, par-
ticularly in observing the break of day and the retiring of
the sun from that lofty height. There is a large and com-
modious house of entertainment erected at the Pine Or-
chard, one of the peaks of the mountain, about 3000 feet
above the river. It is visible from the steam boat, and
the ascent to it is performed without fatigue, in a stage
coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a day.
The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, where
begins a turnpike road to Ithaca, Taking the stage coach
here, for $1 you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass-
ing a good inn at the distance of 7 miles, and then begin-
ning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding road
that affords much wild scenery and many a glimpse at the
surrounding country. Five miles of such travelling brings
the visiter to
The Pine Orchard. This is a large and singular
plain, about a mile and a half long, and nearly a mile
broad, 3000 feet above the river, covered with a growth
of forest trees, and furnished with a house of great
size, and two stories high, built for the accommodation
of visiters. The view which it commands towards the
west and north is extensive and grand. The Hudson is
seen winding from afar through its verdant valleys, its
margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened
with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately below
is seen a region of uncultivated mountains, which is stri-
kingly contrasted with the charming aspect of fertility that
reigns beyond, and presents all the variety of hill and
vale, town, hamlet, and cottage.
The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much company
during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the attrac-
tions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence of
agreeable and refined society. Individuals of taste and
leisure, and still more, parties of travellers, will thus often
enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be found in a place
naturally so wild and difficult of access.
The Round Top is a summit of ereat elevation to-
TRAVKLLEH.
J.U
lit may be
e may be
;rand and
lood, par-
retiring of
I and com-
B Pine Or-
t 3000 feet
I boat, and
in a stage
I day.
kill, where
tage coach
bard, pass-
hen begin-
nding road
npse at the
lling brings
id singular
airly a mile
h a growth
i of great
mmodation
owards the
Hudson is
valleys, its
e enlivened
ately below
hich is stri-
lertility that
of hill and
ch company
t the attrac-
presence of
»f taste and
II thus often
id in a place
levation to-
tvards the south, from which the view is more extensive.
It is 3,718 feet above the ocean.
Thb North Mountain, however, is the finest pointof
view of all, being about 3,304 feet higher than the ocean,
and overlooking a large tract of country on the norths
west, which is not in sight from the other. On the
west side of the river is seen part of the counties of
Albany, Greene, Ulster, and Orange ; and on the east,
part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Columbia,
and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the east belongs
partly to Taughkannuc and Saddle Mountains, in Massa-
chusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green Mountains in
Vermont. Lower down is discovered a range of hills in
the western counties of Connecticut. The eye embraces a
tract of country about 100 miles in length, and 50 in
breadth ; and a large part of it is supposed, by geologists,
to have formed the bed of a great lake in some long past
age, when the Hudson was thrown back by the barrier
presented at the Highlands, before the present chasm had
been cut for its passage.
The rich cultivation of Dutchess county, proverbially
fertile, will be dwelt on with great delight ; while the nu-
merous vessels continoaliy skimming over the Hudson,
may serve co remind the spectator of those vast and pro-
ductive regions which nature had made tributary to other
streams, but whose wealth has been diverted by art into
the same broad channel. Many of the vessels which
navigate the Hudson are freighted with the productions of
Lake Erie ; and the stranger may, perhaps, have an oppor-
tunity to see them gliding by to New-York, regardless of
the wind, as steam boats are now employed expressly for
that purpose.
Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Manor,
which is one of the few great aristocratical estates existing
in this part of the country. It contains a tract of about
14,000 acres.
The Cascades. There is a singular and highly roman-
tic scene which has been intentionally reserved for the
last. At the other side of the Pine Orchard are two fine
cascades, which the visiter must not fail to see, even
if he should neglecf to ascend the north or south summits.
A path leads through the woods to the cascades, passing
40
THE NORTHERN
near two small lakes, from which the supply of water is
derived. They are small, but so shut in by rude and wild
mountain scenery as to render them very striking to the
stranger.
The Lares lie very near each other, and communicate
by a small stream. They are probably about a quarter of
a mile in circumference each, and remarkable for their
appearance. The stream, which flows from the second
lake runs to the western extremity of the Pine Orchard,
where the level terminates, very abruptly, at a high and
shelving precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge
between ridges of gloomy mountains. The whole scene
is on a vast and imposing scale. The gulf is gloomy, and
the steep ascents on both sides are entirely clothed with
forests. Just at the feet of the spectator the stream rushes
along and springs from the rock, in two successive cata-
racts, into the deep and narrow valley below. The first
fall is 175 feet, and the second 80 : both perpendicular,
without a single protruding rock to break the snow-white
sheet.
A building is erected on the left hand) where refresh*
ments may be obtained ; and on the right is a steep path
by which even ladies may descend in safety to the foot of
the falls.
There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the
shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and
throws a dark shade around him, which sets off, in the
most beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. Mr. Cole,
a young artist of great promise, made a delightful picture
of this scene in 1 S25. It has been exhibited in New-
York.
At a little distance the stream takes its second leap into
a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that place, it is seen
rushing tumultuously along over a steep and rocky chan
nel, winding between the bases of the mountains until
gradually sweeps away towards the south, and disappears
among the rude scenery that surrounds it.
On a fine summer day, the splendour of the scene is
greatly increased by the depth of the lights and shades,
as well as the forms and motion of the mist, which the
wind is continually bearing off from the water falls ; and
the brilliancy of the rainbow? with which they are ofter
decked bv the beams of the snn.
it
THAVELLEK,
41
water is
and wild
g to the
nunicate
[uarter of
for tbeir
e second
Orchard,
high and
us gorge
)le scene
smy, and
;hed with
im rushes
live cata-
The first
ndicular,
ow-white
B refresh-
eep path
le foot of
here the
)ray, and
iff, in the
^r. Cole,
il picture
in New-
leap into
it is seen
ky chan-
s until it
isappears
scene is
shades,
/hich the
,11s; and
ire ofter
After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes like
these, the traveller will return to Catskill to take the next
steam boat ; and by making the necessary arrangements,
he can proceed up the river with very little delay.
*•.!'■
THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5| miles.
This is one of the largest and most important towns on
the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the
eastern bank, with several ranges of large stores built
near the watcr^s level. On the brow of the ascent from
the water is a favourite promenade, from which a charm-
ing view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Gatskill
mountains. The western shore is variegated and beauti-
ful, and contains the village of Athens.
If the traveller wishes to proceed directly to JWtc-Le-
banon Springs, this is the proper place to leave the steam
boat ; as there is a direct road leading to that place, and
a stage coach goes twice a week. The distance is 28
miles. Hudson is 117^ miles from New- York, and 27^
from Albany. ^
There are some fine country seats in this neighbour-
hood.
The OvBRSLAGH, 4 miles from Albany, is a place where
the large steam boats are obliged to stop when the river is
very low, because the water is much more shallotv be-
yond. A small steam boat is then sent down to take out
the passengers and luggage ; and, at the hour of depar-
ture, comes down with the passengers for New- York.
Improvement of tjie J^avigation of Hudson River*
A company was incorporated by the state Legislature in
1326, for improving the navigation of the Hudson. $14,
000 were to be appropriated for a machine, for deepening
the channel from Troy, to below Cueymans. Tke Hud-
son Ship Canal Company j was also incorporated at tho
same time, with a capital of a million of dollars. Tbeir
design is to make a ship canal on the east side of the
river to near New Baltimore.
42
THE NORTHEUiS
- ALBANY, 145 miles from New-York.
Inns. RockwelFs Mansion House, in North Market*
street ; Skinner's ; Cruttenden's, on Capitol Hill ; Bam-
man's, South Market-street ; and Fobes's, near the steam
boat wharf. The best houses in Albany are large and
well kept, and the stranger will find excellent accommo-
dations, provided the city is not too much filled b^ the
session of the Legislature, or some other extraordinary
occurrence. The charges, however, are very high in tbit
city, and form a mighty contrast with the moderate de-
mands for food, lodging, &c. in the inns along the coune
of the canal, and in the canal boats themselves.
Routes from Albany. Stage coaches run daily to-
wards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fVe-
quently set ofi" in the same direction. Indeed the num-
ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd of
travellers is pressing towards the Springs. By steady tra-
velling, you may go to Buffalo in three days, 296 miles.
Two or three steam boats go daily to New- York ; small
packet boats go on the canal to the Junction, 8^ miles ;
and a large and convenient one used to go evei^ day to
Schenectady, 28^ miles, but it is uncertain whether it will
be continued. The circuit and delays occasioned by the
locks, make the passage consume a whole day. The
freight boats of the Erie and Ontario Transportation
Company are very numerous, and have been lately fitted
up very comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a
less price than the regular packets.
Strangers travelling to the Springs or Canada will be
pleased with a route ivhich was opened hence to Ballston
and Saratoga in 1825, by a line of coaches to the Cohoes
Falls, a canal boat thence to Clifton Park, and a second
line of coaches onward. As this route is travelled only a
part of the season, it will be best to make inquiries con-
cerning it. Dinner was furnished jn board (he boat in
1825, although cooked in another boat called the "Betsey
Cook."
For the Route to Niagara, see page 60. For other
routes, &c. see index ; also " Remarks" at Ballstoii
Springs.
The Capitol, or State House, occupies a commandine
TIIAVELLER.
43
Market*
; Bam-
e steam
rge and
commo-
l bv the
rdinary
i in tbit
'ate de*
} course
laily to-
ight (Ve-
le num"
rowd of
ady tra-
) miles.
} small
miles ;
day to
^r it will
by the
The
ortation
ly fitted
lem at a
will be
Ballbton
Coboes
second
d only a
ies con-
boat in
i»*Bet8ey
ar other
Ballstoii
nandinc
■I
i
position, and contains the Assembly and Senate Cham-
bers; the Supreme Court, County Court, &c. &c. It is
115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On the op-
posite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more
than a century as a cantonment ; and the now deserted
lines of barracks are clearly seen from the State House.
This is the first point worthy of notice, connected with
the colonial wars against Canada. At Greenbush, the
troops supplied in quotas by the eastern colonies, used to
meet those of New* York ; and hence they proceeded, un-
der commanders appointed by the British government,
against their enemies in the north.
The AcAORMT, just north of the Capitol, is a lai^e in-
stitution for the higher branches of education.
Albany received a great impulse during the late war
with England, on account of its local position : tut peace
brought with it a fatal stagnation of business, the effects
of which are still apparent in some parts of the city, al-
though the more natural and wholesome prosperity which
already begins to flow in through the canal, has done much
to obliterate them. Population in 1825, 15,954.
The Farmers^ and Mechanics' Bank, and the Albany
Bank, both at the foot of State-street, are handsome
buildings of white marble ; and the latter is lighted by a
glass dome. State-street deserves to be mentioned, on
account of its remarkable breadth and fine appearance.
At night, the lamps there make a very fine show. The
Museum is in South Market-street. For the BasiHt see
page 48.
There is a fine Waterfall about 8 miles from Albany, in
a south-west direction, which has recently attracted many
visiters, and is well worthy of attention. The first part
of the way is over a sandy turnpike road, through a fine
plain ; after which Nordman's creek opens with a very
pretty appearance, the view being bounded in front by a
mountain covered with forest trees^and the level near the
stream laid out in fine farms, and well populated. The
falls are on a branch of Nordman's creek ; and although
they present no perpendicular descent of any considerable
height, the water dashes over a great number of little
precipices in quick succession, which break it up into a
sheet of foam ; and the spot itself is of quite a romantic
character.
44
THE NORTHERN
LEBANON SPRINGS, 25 miles east from Albany.
New Lebanon Springs is one of the most deli{;htrul
resorts for strangers, in point of situation, being in
this respect incomparably superior to either of the great
watering places Saratoga and Ballston. It is acces-
sible with facility from different directions, and possess-
es strong attractions in its rich and beautiful scenery, being
situated on the side of a fine amphitheatre of hills and
mountains. The approach from almost every side is
through a diversified region, offering many prospects of
fertile vales and commanding eminences, covered with
green, and frequently cultivated to their summits. Among
all the places which might have been selected for an agree-
able residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to
please a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none per-
haps could have been found more eligible than that we are
about to describe.
The village of New Lebanon is situated in a little val-
ley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from the
two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich and
graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley is
almost a perfect level, which contrasts delightfully with
the bold sides of the uplands, some of which are divest-
ed of their forests, and ornamented with cultivated fields
and farms, presenting a rich variety to the eye wherever
it turns.
On the side of a hill about two miles cast from the vil-
lage, and about half-way to the summit of the ridge, issues
out a Spring of clear warm water, which, although pos-
sessed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the place
much of its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious
hotel, to which the visiter will direct his course.
In coming from the west, the Shaker Village opens
just beyond th/e last^turnpike gate ; and on approaching
the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to
the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and
laborious.
The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, $8 per
week, and at other seasons $7. Near the Spring is a Bath
House, containing warm, cold, and shower baths.
\ J
TRAVELLEK.
45
bany.
lelightrul
being in
the great
is acces-
[ possess-
;ry, being
hills and
^ side is
aspects of
ered with
». Among
an agree-
Mxlated to
none per-
lat we are
little val-
from the
, rich and
le valley is
tfuUy with
are divest-
ated fields
wherever
)m the vil-
dge, issues
lOugh pos-
[1 the place
id spacious
I.
age opens
>proaching
urns off to
steep and
uly, $8 per
ig is a Bath
hs.
A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the
hill above the house, the path to which lies through the
garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoyed
over the surrounding landscape. A still more extensive
sight may be obtained from the summit of the hill, by fol-
lowing the road for a considerable distance up, and then
turning off into the fields. But the former point of view
will be most frequently taken by visiters, on account of
the facility of access. On the south-east is the road to
Northampton ; south-west, the most extensive scene, and
the road to the Shaker Village ; west, village of New Le-
banon, and road to Albany and Troy ; north-west, the
side of a fine sloping bill, well cultivated, and near at hand.
Distances. To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. (This
is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga Springs,
Lake George, &c.) To Hartford, 69 miles.
The watf^rs of the Spring are abundant, and much es-
teemed for uathing, always keeping the temperature of
72® Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed tc pos-
sess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an ex-
amination of the following analysis given by Dr. Meade,
and quoted by Professor Silliman : Two quarts of the Le-
banon water contain
Muriate of lime, 1 grain.
Muriate of Soda, 1^
Sulphate of lime, 1 ^
Carbonate of do. |
OJ Jleriform fluids.
I Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic in.
I Atmospheric air, 8 do.
5 grains. 21
The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natu-
ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which
flow from the same hill. It resembles very much the
Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so warm ;
and the Bristol water is another example of tepid water
almo.'it entirely without mineral qualities. Professor Sil-
liman compares the scenery about Lebanon Springs to
that of Bath in England. It is however graduated more
on those principles of taste which habit cherishes in an
American, as it abounds far more in the deep hues of the
forest, and every where exhibits the signs of progressive
improvement. Few places can be found in this part of
E2
46 THE NORTHERN
the country, where the views are so extensive and grand,
at the same time that they embrace so many rich and
swelling slopes, with so many a scene of neat, beautiful,
and productive husbandry.
Messrs. Kerr & Hull's house at the Springs, is very
large, commodious, and elegant ; and, during the past
season, accommodated 300 persons at one time : probably
as many as any public house in the country. The attend-
ance and table will be found excellent, and Saratoga and
Ballston waters may be obtained at the bar. It stands
close by the spring, and is furnished with baths supplied
with the water. The old house has been put m complQite
repair, and fitted up anew ; a very large addition was built
to it in 1824, which attracted vast numbers of visiters to
the place in both the succeeding seasons. The first bouse
measures SO feet, and the new one 130 : 5 stories high.
They stand in the form of an L, and a fine piazza runs
along them both, measuring 220 feet* The place ■ now
vies with Ballston and Saratoga, and has sometimes count-
ed more visiters than either of them. The stranger will
here find the same amusement and gaiety growing up in
the fashionable season, and witness the same round of
arrivals and emigrations, with a similar decline as the
leaves begin to cbange.
Roads from Lebanon Springs.
From New Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is a very
good road, through a variegated country. Distances as
iollows : to Nassau, 14 utiles ; thence to Troy, 18.
From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage
coach goesi thither twice a week. The following is a table
of distances on the road to Boston :
Pittsfield 7 miles.
Hinsdale 9
Peru, 4
Worthington, . 6
Chesterfield, 6
Northampton,'*' 13
•If
■■yf
vf
i
* Northampton is a beautiful town on Connecticut River,
and well worthy of a day's delay at least. Mount Jiolyoha
TKAVELLEK.
47
grand,
:h and
dutiful,
is very-
lie past
robably
attend-
»ga and
stands
supplied
oniplQilLe
vas built
alters to
st bouse
es high,
zza runs
ice • now
3s count-
iiger will
ing up in
round of
i as the
IS a very I
.'!
tances as
18.
%
d a stage
; is a table
7 miles.
■M
9
.^^
4
6
6 ,
13 /
eut River,
t Holyohe
Jladley, 3
> mherst, 4
Belchertown, 7 .
Ware, 6
Western, 8
Brookfield, 6
Spencer, 7
Leicester, 11
Worcester 6
Framingham, 10
Boston, 21—134
The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, is
an object of attention to most visiters. The village itself
presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as it is
situated on a beautiful leve*, and laid out with the utmost
regularity. The fields %ri divided by right lines, fenced
with the most substantial materials, and cultivated with
great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading principle with
the society, to allow of no private 94 arrivals and departures of
canal boats at Albany, with 165,000 barrels of flour, and
near 16 million feet of plank and boards. 23,292 tons of
merchandise also, went north and west. (See page 56.)
The size of this ba.«!:i, may afford the stranger some
idea of the extent of thf benefits expected from the canal ;
and probably he will find cause to think them not over-
rated, when he observes the number, size, and lading of
the boats which already avail themselves of the conve-
nience and security of this construction. Here the tra-
veller gets the first view of objects with which he is after-
wards to become familiar ; and if he is travelling this way
for the first time in a few years, be must look with sur-
prise upon the crowd of boats, and the bustle of industry.
He may look upon them also with additional interest ; for
they will be hereafter presented to his view in many vary-
ing forms, though still preserving the characteristic aspect
and impression, which di&tingubh the whole line of inter-
nal improvements, to its very termination.
The route to Schenectady, by the canal, although so
much longer than the stage road, and so much obstructed
by frequent locks, is highly worthy of the traveller's at-
tention, either in going or in returning ; for it will afford
him an opportunity of seeing the junction of the two
canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk, the locks by
which the rise of land is artificially surmounted, the aque-
ducts which bear the canal twice across the river, the
Wat Hoix Rapid, and the gap through which the canal
passes ; the scenery at Alexander's Bridge, &c. The packet
boats used to leave Albany for Schenectady every day ; if
they should have ceased running, travellers may find very
good accommodations in the boats of the Ontario and
Erie Transportation Company, which are all fitted up for
passengers, and carry them at more moderate prices.
Other boats of various descriptions go every day in the
same direction.
:^
THE NORTHEIIN
ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA.
The boats start from the commencement ot the canal,
-which is at the north end of Albany ; so that a carriage
-will be necessary for the traveller and his luggage.
Boats run with great eiactncss from Albany to Roches-
ter in five days.
Description of a Canal Packet Bool.— The length is 60
or ^0 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the dining
room, where two rows of tablen are set. At night, mnt-
triesses are spread on the seats each side, and another row
above them pn cots suspended from the roof. The ladies
are accommodated with births in the cabin, which is
usually caroeted, hung with curtains, and in other re^pectn
more handsomely furnished. The |citchen and bar are
conveniently situated ; and the tables are spread with an
abundance, and often a delicacy, which may well surprise
those not accustomed to the cheapness of travelling in
this part of the country.
A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve
to make the time pass agreeably, even if the traveller be
a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places,
the view (Vom the deck is highly interesting ) but it can-
not be too often recommended to the stranger to beware
of standing on deck when approaching a bridge, and
never to expose the head or hands out of a window.
Rbnsselaerwtcr,
A fine estate ivith its respectable old mansion house,
about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy of
particular observation, as the seat of the Honourable
StephjEm Van Rensselaer ; who bears the respected old
Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im-
mense value, extending ten miles along the river, and
double that dbtance east and west ; while he possesses
besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &c. It was for*
merly entailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of
the family ; but on the death of the present proprietor it
is to be divided equally among all the children. The cha-
racter of Gen. V. R. is too estimable and influential to
allovr his name to be passed over in silence, even in a
ivork like the present little volume. He has been a
powerful patron> for many years, of all plans for the pub-
a.
JTtfcA
!\
\
I
•■■'S
^ Schenect^55^^.
JuncUof^
8^
^-
j±i ,'cnali
TY-oy
[A I, B^A TM X CP
Nornuzfi
•.%,
\
It
t^
Jtooher
■'*ni
iic beni
friends
of h» fa
Stat
vantagei
the vici
afibrdinj
arms an
under tt
Theg
road ne
where ai
protect
Strangei
the offici
\
princi[
the remt
arms. '
tended f
received
disposed
in boxes,
in comp:
forroidab
those in i
swords y
on wire 1
vices fori
Theut
boxes am
stair case
are a fen
shells, &(
In the
north is c
inanufact
employed
the soutl
Behind tl
kitchen gi
The mi
costs froi
^re oxvdi
TRAVELLEK.
iic benefit, aud one of the earliest and most efl&eient
friends of the Erie Canal, which terminates within viei^
of his house.
Statb Arsenal, 5| miles, at Gibbonsville. The ad-
vantages of this situation will be imn^ediately percei?ed :
the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal,
affording every convenience for the transportaticn of
arms and ammunition. This depository of arms, &c. is
under the charge of Msyor Hoops.
The ground occupied by the arsenal eitends from the
road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal,
where are two gun houses, with low projecting roofs to
protect the carriages from exposure to the weather.
Strangers may easily gain access by mere application at
the officers* quarters. These are in the south wing of the
principal building, which faces the road and the river ; and
the remainder of which is occupied for the storing of
arms. The lower floor is devoted to such arms as are in-
tended for the supply of the military posts, or have been
received for repairing. The arms in the second loft are
disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly packed
in boxes, and partly ranged upright, with fixed baiyonets,
in compact order; and present an appearance truly
formidable. Thousands of pistols are hung over head ;
those in the alternate lines standing different ways ; and
swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally
on wire hooks. The walls are ornamented by several de-
vices formed of swords, pistols, &c. ingeniously arranged.
The upper loft contains only knapsacks, belts, cartridge
boxes and other leathern articles ; while the passc^es and
stair cases are bung with drums. — On the ground floor
are a few pieces of artillery, and various sizes of shot,
shells, &c. &c.
In the yard are two ranges of buildings. That on the
north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms,
manufacturing Jocks, &c. about 30 men being usually
employed, most of whom are enlisted. The buildings on
the south side are decupled by smiths and carpenters.
Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit garden ; the
kitchen garden berng on the north side of the grounds.
The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; which
costs from 50 cents to $1 50 or $2 each. The barrels
ire oxydized to prevent rusting. The muskets weigh a
5&
THE NORTHERN
little more than 10 pounds, and the parts are intended to
correspond as nearly as can easily be done.
In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 4
medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all taken
at Saratoga ; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howitzer,
taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one S
inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4
pounders and 14 guns,sent by King Louis to the Continental
Congress in the revolution. These are all of brass, and
most of them highly ornamented. The French guns pre-
sented by the king, bear each an individual name forward,
and the inscription " Ultima ratio regtim^* — (the last argu-
ment of kings.) The English guns have the royal arms
near the breech, and those of the officer of the foundry
department fonvard. ;
There are also three or four howitzers cast in New-
York and Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the
oldest specimens of such manufacture in this country.
They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies,
' ' TROY,
On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome
town, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of
which has received the name of Mount Ida, to correspond
with the classic appellation of the place. There is a good
horse ferry, which helps to render the town a great tho*
ronghfare during the travelling season. The Dam and Basiit
at Troy form a great and expensive work, and promise
great benefit to the place, by diverting a part of the busi-
ness of the canal.
The road to New Lebanon is a very good and very
pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. The Lrst mile or
two is through a wild, broken piece of country, with some
striking scenes.
Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more,
village of New Lebanon 12 further, and Lebanon Springs
2 more.
On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine succession
of water falls, on a stream which haa cut its way ^" some
places to a great depth, and takes three or four ^'^t (.'en*
dicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. Tbu
road to New Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which
is worthy of attention for its picturesque charactev
TRAVELLER.
53
nded tu
re are 4
U taken
iwitzer,
id one S
rench 4
itinental
as», and [
;un9 pre-
forward,
ast argu-
yal arms
foundry
in New- ,
m of the j
country. '
I
bandsomc
minent of
orrespond
is a good
reat tho*
and Basin
promise
the busi-
and very
rst mile or
with some
u 8 more,
m Springs
succession
ty »n some
a I
;en-
■ir f
rds. The
ace, which
charactev
There are several mills of different descriptionsi and a
cotton manufactory on the same stream.
Mount Ida. Tbe view from the top of this hill, and
still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive
and beautiful. It embraces the course of the Hudson for
a considerable distance up and down ; with the courses of
the two canals, before and after their junction ; together
with many of the objects already spoken of ; particularly
the range of the distant Catskill Mountains, which pre-
sent a boundary to the scene in the south* west.
A canal route has been surveyed by the state of
Massachusetts, from Boston to Troy. From Troy to
Connecticut River, 78 miles of canal would cost 3 mil-
lions of dollars, with a tunnel of 4 miles through Hoosac.
Mountain, Locks^e 61 i feet.
At the Van Rens3elaer School^ the students deliver lec-
tures by turns, on the branches of study to which they
are devoted ; and during the pleasant seasons of the year,
they devote much time to making personal observations
on farming, the botany of the neighbourhood, &c. Board-
«jg costs about $1 50 per week, and no charge is made for
room rent, use of the library, apparatus, &c.
Miss WUlartPs Academy, for young ladies, is also a very
respectable establishment.
The Flour Millf south of the town, can grind 2000
bushels of wheat in a day, and 1500 with ease.
The .\*at7 and Spike Manufactoryt makes of red hot iron,
every thing from a shingle nail to a ship spike.
: -c ■'
Htdrostatic Lock. ^^
In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll,
three of these works have been constructed : — one at
Troy, one at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are
commonly called weigk-locks. The following minute ac-
count of them may be interesting to those who have never
seen them.
" These hydrostatic locks are constructed with a cham-
ber sufficiently large to receive any boat used on the canal.
The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and is
filled from it by a paddle gate which is fixed in a large
?atp. On a level below the chamber, is a receptacle, into
F
61
THE NO&TUBRN
whiob, by a gate, the chamber oaii be 6tnptied ; and
from this, through anoiher gate, the , water can be db*
charged. The gates are made as accurately as possible, to
prevent leakage ; and althoii|^ they cannot be mide per-
feetty tight^ yet if they are e^iaally so, the result will be
equally con^nsated by the g^ at the other*
'* When it is designed to ascertain the weight of a
loaded boat, the chamber is first filled by the opening of
the paddle gate, after which the large gate is opeuedi fhe
boat is removed from the canal into the ^haiiiber, and the
gates close behind it The depth of the water in the
chambef is then carefully ascertained by a tnetallic rod,
graduated idto feet, tenths, and hundredths ef it foot ; and
the cubic contents of the water, With the beat Heating in
it, are at once obtained from a table constructed (br the
purpose, and adapted to the graduations of the rod.
** Supfiose the column of ^ater in the look in which the
boat is afloat, is 85 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 feet deep ;
then by miUtiplying the length, width, and depth of this
column into eieich other, its contents in cubic leet are eb*
tained. Thus, 85 X 1 6 X 4=5100 cubic feet of water, in-
cluding what is called the flotation bulk of the boat, or in
other words, induding the contents of the volume of
water displaced by the boat. The water is then drawn
off' into the receptacle, and the boat settles down upon
timbers, so arranged as to yield to its shape, by which it
is suppo^d, without being strained or injured. The
quantity of water drawn from the lock i« then ascertained
by the graduated rod. Suppose the water in the recep-
tacle measures 30 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 5 feet deep :
these multiplied into each other as before, will produce
3750 cubic feet. It is a principle in hydrostatics, that
every body which floats in water, displaces a volume of
thu fluid, precuely equal in weight to the floating body.
it appears from the above, that the water, with the loaded
boat floating in it, contained 5100 cubic feet, and that
the same water, drawn off* and measured sepfarately, con-
tained 3750 cubic feet, which subtracted from the prece-
ding, will give 1350 cubic (bet of water displaced by the
loaded boat. And as a cubic foot of fresh water weighs
1000 ounces avoirdupois, or 621 pounds, it follows that
1350X62^=84375: the weight of the loaded boat.
This is to be reduced to tons, and the weight of the
4
■■■>i
KTBAVQ.LER.
*»
empty boat, pretiously ascertained in the saqie manner, is
to be deducted, and the remainder will be the weight of
the cargo. After an empty boat has been o^it weighed,
she is numbered, and her weight is registered at the seve-
ral hydrostatic locks.*'
As I suppose the traveller personalljriinacquainted with
this part of the country, I ma^ call his attention both to
the advantages and the dieadvantages of the mode of
travelling' The opportunity for looking around on every
side is much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage
eoacb, or even a private carriage, i^though it sometime)
happens, that the road commands more extensive views
than the canal. The immediate scene from the latter,
however, will usually be found the most agreeable ; for a
anootfa sheet of water, with level and often grassy hanks,
is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a muddy
or sandy highway. Besides it is always free from the
inconveniences of dust, whiCk frequentty render the roads
in this part of the country e^Ktremely uncomfortable.
The Dovblb Locks. The two locks which occur just
below the junction of the northern and western cantls*
were doubled in 1825, to furnish room for the boats,
which pass here in great numbers. They are built pf
marble iVom Westchester county. . !,
The Jkmclicnt 8i miles from Albany, is where the North*
em and Western Canals meet and unite. To this spot
the canal has been of a greater width than either pf the
branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal runs
to Whitehall, Lake Champlun, with locks, a distance of
03§ miles, passing through Waterford, Half-moon, Still-
water, near Bemis's Heights, (14 miles from Waterford,)
with the battle grounds of General Bui^oyne, Fort Hardy,
where he surrendered. Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort
Anne.
The Erie or Western Canal now reaches to Buffalo, on
Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks,
which raise and lower the water 6SS feet in all. The
principal points where the most labour and expense have
been required, are the following :
The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, —
the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on
which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long
Stone Wall and Locks st Little Falls, together viiih the
'i^
56
THE NORTHERN
S 5-
beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the
long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great
Embankment at Monroe, where for two miles the boats
pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge-
nesee at Rochester, — the 5 double combined Locks at
Lockport, and the long Pier at Black Rock.
The principal natural objects within its neighbourhood,
worthy of the traveller's attention, are the following^:
The Gohoes Falls,->Little Falls,— the Falls of Trenton,
14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Oneida, Sa-
Hna, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua ; the
three Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester and Car-
thage ; Niagara, and the Lakec of Ontario and Erie.
In the unfinished state of the canals, the amount of
tolls was, in 1822, $64,071 83 ; in 1823, $151,099 46 ; in
1824, $289,320 8; 1825, estimated at $500,000. The
canal was completed in 1825 ; and it was estimated that
on the first of Jan. 1826, the canal debt amounted to
$7,602,092. The interest on this will be $410,000, and
$100,000 is estimated to be requisite for repairs and su-
perintendence, annually. For the first ten years the canal
tolls are estimated to average $700,000; the auction
duties belonging to the canal fund, $250,000, and the salt
duties $170,000. The income from the tolls and funds of
the canals will thus yield an annual surplus revenue of
$610,000 to be applied to the reduction of the canal debt,
which it is estimated will be paid ofi" in 10 years.
At the 9 Locks, the road to Waterford leaves the Erie
Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on the es^t ;
and in a short distance crosses the Mohawk River betow
the Cohoes Falls ; which are to be immediately described.
There is a very fine view of the locks, the river, and the
falls, from the road which runs along the south bank of
the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. The
stage coaches for the Springs through Clifilon Park, stop
at about a mile distance, where the canal boat awaits
them ; and those who are going on the road to Waterford,
would find it worth a little time to turn ofi* about a mile
in that direction and return.
(The book will now follow the great route, westward,
to Niagara. For the road to the Springs, see Waterfcrd,
TRAVELLEIjl.
m
,— the
! great
9 boats
he Ge>
»ck8 at
irhood,
renton,
ida, Sa-
la; the
id Car-
irie.
lount of
»46; in
). The
ited that
Anted to
DOO, and
and 8U-
the canal
auction
|l the salt
funds of
▼enue of
nal debt,
the Erie
the east ;
rer below
escribed.
, and the
bank of
jal. The
•ark, stop
ait awaits
^aterford,
[>ut a mile
nrestward,
Vaterfwd,
#1
I
i
1
GOHOES FALLS.
This is the great Cataract of the Mohawk River r The
height of the fall is 78 feet. The banks are mere walls
of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out be-
neath, rising about 140 feet above the river for a gre%t
distance below the falls. At first view the cataract ap-
pears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer ap-
proach, the ledge of rocks over which the water is nreci-
pitated, is found extremely irregular and broken. Many
fine fish are caught at the bottom.
The Lower ^gueductf 21 miles. On account of the dif-
ficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the river,
above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as
there is a natural channel on the other side, which will be
seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, and
rests on 26 stone piers and abutments.
Wat Hoix Gapf 21 miles — the channel above-men-
tioned.
Upper Jiqueductf 9i miles — 748 feet long, and rests on
16 piers. The scene at Jllexander^s Bridge is very fine.
ScHENCCTADT is oue of the oldest settlements in the
state, having been occupied as a little frontier fortress
before the year 1665, when it was attacked by a party of
French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and many of
the inhabitants murdered. This party was designed
s^inst the Five Nations ; but being much worn down with
travelling in the winter, they fell on Schenectady.
The town was remarkable, until within a very few
years, for the antique and foreign aspect of its buildings,
and the inconvenience of its streets, having retained in a
singular degree the Dutch fashions in architecture, &c.
Union College is conspicuously situated a little out
of town. Two large stone buildings have been erected
several years, but the original plan, which was quite ex-
tensive, has never been completed. Dr. Nottis president
of this highly respectable institution, which contained, in
1825, 234 students.
F2
5S
THE NORTHERN
FROM SCHBNBCTADT TO VTICA.
By the Canal, 79| miles.*
Rotterdam Flats 3 miles.
Flint HiU 8
/ Fort Hunter 10
North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk,
is the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like
most of the places of defence built in this state during the
revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fitted
only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to
approach the settlements on this side. The only fortress
of consequence which ever existed in any part of the
state (except that of Oswego,) was Fort Stanwix, of
which particular mention will be made on reaching Rome.
Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk
Indians ; and there is still to be seen a chapel built by
Qiieen Anne, near the beginning of the last century for
the use of that nation. It is still known by the name of
^ueen Anne's ChapeU .
Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. ..
Here is a collection of several very interesting works,
formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad
and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in
the canal from rising or falling, and the current of the
creek is set back by a dam a little below, nearly to the
same level. The dam is constructed in a manner best
calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods,
and when increased by the ice. It has a broad founda-
tion and a narrow top ; and it is built so as to present
an angle against the middle of the current. An inge-
nious invention has been devised for drawing boats across
the creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horse
moves a rope, which is stretched double across, and is
carried round a wheel on the other side : a line attached
* By the road, 81 miles. See "Roadsy^* at the end of the
volume.
HI
V
V.
I
TRAVELLEK.
5»
to this moves the boats across, they being kept in their
course by another line, which slides upon a long rope
stretched across the creek oo the other side of the boats.
Caughmawaga, A\ miles.
The village of Johnatown is situated at the distance of
4 miles north of the canal."'
* TVifte's Hill is a commanding elevation within the limits of
Johnstown. It was formerly the place of the council fire of
the Mohawk Indians : and the Germans have corrupted its
name to " Tripes Hill," by which it is commonly known.
At Johnstown, on the road^ are two fine houses, built of stone,
standing at the distance of a mile from each other. They
were erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as this
tract of country was his residence, and formed a part of
his vast and valuable estate. There was originally a third
house, similarly built, and at the interval of another mile : but
this was consumed bv fire. Col. Guy Johnson and Col.
John Johnson (sons of Sir William,) inhabited two of them
until the revolutionary war ; when, havin|^ attached them-
selves to the British interest, they removed mto Canada, and
their estates were confiscated. Col. John afterwards came
down with a party of French and Indians, attacked the town
and made prisoners many of his old friends and neighbours.
The third mansion is on the other side of the road, and
was
' The residence of Sir William Johnson, ^
for several of the last years of his life. This distinguished man,
who maikes so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state
about the time of the French war, was bom in Ireland, in 1714,
and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of his uncle,
Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate here
through his wife. Su> William became well acquainted with the
Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater influence
over them than any other white man ever possessed. He rose
from tibe station of a private soldier to the rank of a General,
and commanded at lake George in 1755, although, as will here-
after be seen, the title which he there received, was really
merited by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort Niagara,
and in 1769 went to join Gen, Amherst at Oswego, and assist-
so
THE NORTHERN
Anthony's Nose^ 7) miles. This is a high and pro-
minent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of the
river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends
downirards to a great depth, with several apartments of
considerable size. This scene is represented in one of
the plates ; but the view is taken from a little west of the
bill. The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a re-
markable assemblage of interesting objects : the Mohawk
River, winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike
on the north side, the canal and a country road on the
south ; the whole enclosed by rough and elevated hills.
There is every appearance of a rent in the hills having
been made by a strong current of water ; and geologists
consider them as having originallv been a hairier to a
great lake, which was thus gradually drained.
Canajorarib Creek and Village, 5 mUes. Hence
a stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry Valley.
Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, be-
longing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Ger-
mans. It occupies the site of Old Fort Plain. The Ger-
man language, much corrupted, is spoken here by every
body.
This little fort was surprised by captain Butler in the
revolutionary war, on his return from burning Cherry
Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities.
Damon the River, and Feeder for tJie Canal, 4 miles.
The Mouth of East Canada Creek, on the opposite
side of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met
cd in the capture of Montreal. He died and was buried at his
seat, July 7, 1774, at the a^e of 60, very rich, in consequence
of the increased value qf his extensive estate after the French
war.
This building was erected in 1773. and stands nearly a mile
westward from the village. It is called the Hall.
The Battle of Johnstown. On the 25th of October 1781,
Col. Willet, with 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe,
fought 600 English and Indians, on the grounds belonging to
the mar: ion. The loss of the enemy was considerable, and
they suttered so much during their retreat, that on their arrival
in Canada their numbers were rcdnced to 220.
\
id prO"
of the
sxtends
enta of
one of
t of the
ts a re-
lohawk
urnpike
I on the
hills.
I having
sologists
ior to a
Hence
f Valley,
age, be-
I of Ger-
rheGer-
by every
cr in the
5 Cherry
{ miles.
3 oppoAite
Sutler met
iried at his
jnsequence
the French ^
sarlyamile
tober 1781,
neida tribe,
eloneing to
erable, and
heir arrival
m^
■ft
f'
?t
.A
I^V
^\irf,:,,;,
'-.'■^ I
< ^A-irji'l
\
^.jommes
m
rii£ N^
r.HS
... i}^.r „.'A\ JtfV-
•ithern bar»k ai Up
•*f»rn, which exteiiti
■itrntcd in one of
rbtle west of titt*
K' present? a re-
. t-, : the Muhat*-';.
v^'Ub the Inrnpfk-
.i.
rioT/nwarch to a
tht plates; but ibv ■■ - -.^ r
■jiilf. The '*pot lis aiji4« pt'!-^■
jn»t'kJ*b»»- auH?i'mbl3i;.i .■■5' kn^.r
^Qftik ; ihc wbok cn«k«.?i^ii, %y rsffiugk Atv 'vV-. rated hills.
■'fhi**!'*'' ;•' p'yf-ry s-p' ■ ""f ?^. r^in m ihrt hilU h?ii,rtin -
■'■<'-•' ■.;«,«.';'•- by a .'a"!.'; , •: ' ".'" wiitter ■; «5Kk.I geolagisv
■ •■ r them ft9 bcurr-.j!' ., ^ ■ 'ij been a bamer to t*
gmiXi Jake, ivtsicb was ffe\i^ psjikjull? '^I'^.ineol.
... , i two oi' liirec ■tim'';8 a wcc^* 'm Ch*t*fry ''i-' alley-
's-., i mile?;. Here ii a, »mn\i vtlMae, f*c<
'nbal>it©d by the iie^ccntianta c.f Battler In f e
■^ tht €'tfS4l, 4 W
y
. *«*.©* CAr.£K, on t'he f /:■,;;'.. ft
sido of the Mohnwk. iS«.'gr tin?? t place, Capt B»j( ' ,■ t
^^ July ?, 1774, a! th« . p
n'creased value of hx>
.tf"
Til' ..VsiH? ifiil w&.« barj
lit', \«:rY ric/i, itx'oui
V,-
Til' . ?»*indl«g wd* ^r^i^tif'i^ 5>
W*- ' irom the viUugT.
'/Vk iJdUf- of Joh'ii-dtn.f}n.
6lK) F.riili^bs vtivl Indian
*. t«».««ifV-
in
' the fUn. ■
vh<- \l.>(it of Octoln
.. grovujds Ku'Kji:^'
f">y ^Vds considirab
. >M;ii»luriti
\erge
seen,
The ro
the hes
that
This a
hills,
of wat
throw
TRAVELLER.
a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on bia
way back to Oneida Lake and the Oawego. He had
crossed the river somewhere below, and while lingering a
little in the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the
mouth of the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship
with the Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him,
he beg8:ed for his life ; but they only replied " Sherry
Valley /" and tomahawked him on the spot.
Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. This was the principal
defensive position of that famous nation of Indians, now
entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the Dutch
settlements, and New England, they were long regarded
with peculiar solicitude, and frequently with great dread.
They were one of the five nations, of which we shall
speak more particularly, at Oneida, and were long faithful
and serviceable friends to the white men. Here is an eld
chapel erected for their use.
Palatine Bridge. A little ofi* the canal, at Palatine,
is a school for the education of the Deaf and Dumb, es-
tablished under the patronage of the state, on the plan of
that in Hartford, Connecticut. It is the central school
for the state of New- York.
Gen. Herkimer's residence, 2 miles. The country
hereabouts presents a varied surface, and increases in in-
terest on approaching Little Falls, which is the most ro-
mantic scene on the rourse of the Erie Canal. On reach-
ing a little meadow surrounded by hills, where the views
open upon cultivated fields and a fetv farm houses, the
Mohawk will be found flowing below, on the right ; while
on the opposite side, at the foot of the hills and on the
verge of the forest that covers them, the great road is
seen, ai'ter having been lost to the view for a long time.
The road, the river, and the canal, are collected again at
the head of the valley ; for there is but one passage, and
that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all.
This a deep cut through a chain of limestone and granite
hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the force
of water. If the chasm were again filled up it would
throw the water back, aiid form an immense lake, such as
is supposed to have once existed west of this place, and
which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time wore
away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the hard
62
THE NORTHERN
granite, until a mere r^-^er succeeded, and the fine allu«
vial plains above, cr*^ . ihe German Flats, were left dry.
. The little valley orer which we pass, east of the falu,
was therefore of a more recent formation than these, the
soil being composed of the particles of disintegrated rock,
deposited by the water when it reached a level after its
rapid descent. The stranger should, by no means, neglect
the view of this place. If he reaches it early or late in a
pleasant day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the
beauty of the scene will be redoubled. On the north
bank of the river, the road climbs along the side of the
rocks, where there is barely room for its passage. A
great part of the way it is almost overhung by rocks and
trees on one side, while on the other is a precipice of
granite, cut down by the force of water in perpendieular
shafts, originally formed by drills, made by loose stones
whirled round by the current. The same appearance
extends to the islands and rocks in the channels, many of
which appear quite inaccessible, with tl^eir ragged and
peipendicular sides, overhung by dark evergreens, whose
shade seems the more intense from its contrast with the
white rapids and cascades below.
In some places the road is protected by immense natu-
ral battlements, formed of massy rock, which have been
loosened from above, and planted themselves on the brow
of the precipice.
On the south side of the river runs the canal, supported
by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great expense,
and rising from the very channel of the Mohawk. The
wildness of the surrounding scenery, contrasts no less
with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the
violence and tumult of the Mohawk, with the placid and
silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security
with which the boats glide along the side of the moun*
tains.
^ The traveller may step on shore at the two locks, and
walk along the tow path, as there are five more locks a
mile above. If he wishes to stop a few hours to view the
scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only
half a mile from that place, where is a large and com-
fortable inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing;
very frequently. If he intends to stay but a few bourn,
TIiAV£LL£U.
6;^
it is recommended to him to have his baggage left at a
little tavern on the canal, where it can be readily trans-
ferred to another boat.
The AquADucT across the Mohawk is near the 5 locks ;
and is considered the most finished specimen of mason
work on the line of the canal, though much inferior in
size to that over the Genesee at Rochester, it conducts
over a supply of water from the old canal, built for boats
to pass the falls, and communicates also with a large ba-
sin on the north bank. It passes the narrow channel of
the river with three beautiful arches, which are covered
with a calcareous cement roughened by little stalactites^
formed by the water that continually^ drips through the
stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on which the water
falls, are soon found incrusted with a similar substance.
The channel here shows part of the old lime stone stra-
ta, with the more durable granite rocks laid bare below.
This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist,
abounding in oi|;anic remains^ &c. but the ordinary tra-
veller will be more pleased with specimens of the beauti-
ful little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are fou^d on the
hills about a mile distant from the village. They are per-
fect in their form, terminating with two pyramids ; and
ars ^0 loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, as to be washed
out by the rains in considerable numbers.
There are mills of various kinds at this place.
On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a beauti-
ful meadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; through
which the Mohawk winds in a smooth and gentle currrent,
enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the distance of
three mileSf we are in the level region called the Geitnan
Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabitants, who arc
almost all of German extraction, still preserve their lan-
guage, and many of the customs of their ancestors ; and
though often laborious and provident farmers, are little
inclined to those improvements in learning or the use-
ful arts, which distinguish so large a portion of the state.
The scenes presented along this part of the canal, bear a
resemblance to some of the meadows of the Connecticut,
although of inferior size, and of more recent settlement.
Six miles from Little Falls is Lock JVb. 48. An ok!
64
THE ^ORTHERN
church is seen on the south side ; and abo, old Fort
Herkimer.
Hbrkimer. This village is situated about a mile and a
half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semicircu-
lar plain ; the circumference of which is traced by the
Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road. It derives
its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there will be
more to say at Rome.
The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Trenton
FallSf and join the canal again at Utica^ or go from Utica.
The LoKG Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six
miles west of Herkimer. It is the longest reach on the
canal without any interruption by locks, extending to
Salina, a distance of Q9i miles.
f j< hrv
»,i.ju
UTICA.
ji>
This is one of the largest and most important of the
western towns. Here the river, the great road, and the
canal, all meet again. There are also roads concentrating
here, from various directions, and stage coaches arriving
and departing in great numbers. There are two large
stage houses ; one of which, at the canal bridge, will be
found most convenient, if not too crowded. Travellers,
wishing for more retired lodgings, will find them at a
large hotel half a mile from the canal.
There are several handsome churches in Utica, and
one or more for almost every denomination. The streets
are broad, straight, and commo^iious ; and the principal
ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant
dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mohawk, is at the
end of the street. There were, in 1825, 5040 inhabitants :
a few less than in Rochester. (Weigh-Lockj See p. 53.)
I
ts>
•€
^
~\
o-
U
S';.
Hamilton College
Is situated near the village of Clinton, 9 miles from
Utica. It contained 107 students in 1825.
H *
o
(ft
w
09
^^i"
9or'iGtiWqiv$t shot they fled. A few re*
mained and fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Congress
voted a monument to his memory, but it has never been
erected. The Americans lost .60 killed, and 240 wound-
ed and prisoners. Two miles below Fort Stanwix the
canal commences between tbe Mohawk and Wood Creek ;
so that Rome separates the waters of tbe Hudson and the
St. Lawrence.
Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of
the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows of pali-
sades, and a block house in the middle. It was defended
against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort. Lieut. Colonel
Willet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the camp.
He was intercepted on his return, but cut his way through,
and returned without tbe loss of a man. When Sir J. John-
son returned from the battle with Gen. Herkimer, the for-
tress was summoned, but refused to surrender ; and Col.
Willet and Lieut. Stockton left the fort to inform the peo-
ple towards Albany, of its situation. They crept through
the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. Schuyler's head quar-
ters at Stillwater. Gen. Arnold volunteered to relieve it.
He frightened the besiegers by means of two emissaries,
an Indian and a white man, who told such stories of the
force of the Americans, that they left their baggage and
fled precipitately to Oneida Lake.
Oneida Castle. ,
This is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved
land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STRIET
WEBSTER, N.y. 14510
(716)S73-4S03
m
\
^N^
<>
-:'',
».
-Sk^
■«*:«
'*^
«a
THE NORTHERN
principal residences of most of the Indians in tliis part of
the country were formerly fortified in a manner corres-
ponding with their ideas of warfare, and hence the name
of castle attached to this village, as well as to several
others we may have occasion to speak of further on.
The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations,
which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this
state. The best and most interesting account of them
will be found in Colden's history, to which valuable work,
the curious reader is referred. They formerly resided,
says that author, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, near
where Montreal now stands ; but being driven from their
country by the Adirondacks, a powerful and warlike nation,
wandered towards the south -west, and settled along the
lakes of New- York, where they now live. This occurred
before the arrival of any Europeans in this part of the
continent; and when the French came to Quebec, in
1603, they held their present abode. On the St. Law-
rence they had been cultivators of the ground, but after
their expulsion they turned their attention to warlike
deeds with so much success, that they finally triumphed
over their enemies the Adirondacks, and almost extermi-
nated them. Their power and influence, at the time of
the settlement of New- York and New-England, were ex-
tended far and wide. They held the Delawares in sub-
jection in Pennsylvania and Delaware ; the Cherokees in
S. Carolina sought their friendship ; and all the country
between the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tributary
to them. They must have been at that time extremely
numerous. But since then their decrease has been great ;
for besides the losses they have sustained in wars, and
the diseases brought upon them by civilized vices, many
of their young men have led their native country to go
and join the tribes who still preserve .some portion of
their original habits and independence ; and there are
supposed to be only 8000 now in this state. Some of the
nations, however, are said to be gradually increasing,
under all their disadvantages. The United States have fur-
nished sums of money for their instruction in learning
«nd useful arts ; as they do to other Indian tribes in
our territory.
\
m
TRAVELLER.
6i)
A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by tbo road sidoi is
the ancient
Council Grovb,
Where all the public business of the nation has been, for
many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine butternut
trees, which, in the summer season, from a little distance,
present a beautiful and regular mass of verdure, it was
carefullv fenced in, until wit!iin a few years, and kept
clear of all brush, fallen iimbur. and other obstructions,
but has now become a mere thoroughfare. Towards the
south-east from this place is seen the Episcopal church, a
building recently erected for the use of the Indians.
Great numbers of the white persons from the neighbour-
hood also attend service at this house, as well as in the
other church, which is supplied with preachers by the
Foreign Missionary Society.
In the scattering village about half a mile beyond, there
are several decent and comfortable frame houses inhabited
by Indian families, whose habits have risen to a higher
grade than most of the nation, although many of them
are gradually improving, by betaking themselves to agri-
culture. A handsome school-house has been erected at
the same place, the frame of which was made and raised
under the direction of a young Indian, from what he had
learnt by watching the progress of the builders employed
several years before on his brother's house hard by. This
instance alone is more conclusive of the Indian mental
capacity for acquiring useful arts, than all the reasoning to
the contrary their enemies have ever advanced.
The scholars are to be taught the rudiments of learn-
ing, under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts.
The Oneida nation derived their name from a white
stono on a hill five miles southerly from this place, to
which they long paid a superstitious worship. The word
" Oneida^" in their curious and wonderful language, signi-
fies a stone on a high hill. Many of them were idolaters
until within a short time ; but a few years ago the nation
renounced their ancient superstitious rites, and declared
in favour of Christianity.
G2
70
THE NORTHERN
BftOTHERTOWN AND NeW-StOCKBRIDGE
Are two yill&ges, a few miles south-easterly from here,
situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted
to some of their scattered Indian brethren from Pennsyl-
vania and New- England. New-Stockbridge, until recently,
was the residence of the Stockbridge tribe, who came by an
invitation from the Oneidas some years ago. They had
Christian ministers among them long before they removed
from Stockbridge in Massachusetts.
Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land given
them by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are on
the most friendly terms ; and are adopting, to a good ex-
tent, the arts of civilized life. They have invited the
Oneidas to join them.
The Brothertown Indians have been collected from all
the remnants of tribes in New-England and Long Island,
and practise comparatively few of the Indian customs.
SYRACUSE.
This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of its
growth, than for the peculiar advantages of its situation.
The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant,
and the water is brought in hollow logs to the salt vats,
in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. These
vats will be seen at the western side of the village, and
are well worthy of a day*s delay, as well as the works at
Salina, Liverpool, and Geddesburgh. The vats are large
pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, raised a
little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, with a
very gradual descent, to permit the salt water to flow
slowly along from one end to the other. Each range of
vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpendicularly in
the ground ; and the constant action of the sun evapo-
rates the water, and leaves the salt to be deposited in small
cubical crystals at the bottom. The water is at first a
little thick, but gradually deposits its impurities ; and the
lower vats always show a beautiful white crust, like the
purest snow.
Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the vats
Hi
TRAVELLER.
71
irhen the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken out
once in two or three days, to be deposited in the store
houses, which are built at regular distances.
Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then is
ready for transportation to any part of the country.
It is scarcely four years since the town may be pro«
perly said to have been begun. In 1823, there were about
100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1824. In
1S25, the inhabitants amounted to 1000 ; and those of
the township to 3025. There were then three churches in
the village ; and 736,632 bushels of salt were manufac-
tured here in that year. In the autumn of the year 1824,
the salt vats covered 60 acres, and about 140 acres more
had been cleared from the surrounding forest, for the
purpose of extending the works, under the direction of a
company whose enterprise, seconded by the formation of
the canal, is likely to prove of great and permanent ad-
vantage to the country as well as to themselves. Under
the same encouraging prospects, the village has acquired
its sudden growth and importance ; large blocks of stores
have been built on both sides of the canal, two or three
large inns and stage houses are ready for the accommo-
dation of travellers, and a good leal of trade is carried on
in this place* Improvements are still goiiig on rapidly,
and it is difficult to foretell where they will stop.
The Oswego Canal, which has been commenced, will
join the Erie canal at this place, and open a direct commu-
nication with Lake Ontario. Apprehensions, however,
have been entertained, lest this work should draw off a
great deal of the transportation from the west, through
the VVelland Canal, as the tolls will be much less on the
latter route.
By a recent survey, a canal from Syracuse through Ho-
mer to Binghamptonf on the Susquehannahj has been pro^
nounced practicable. Syracuse Weigh- Lock, (See p. 53.)
SALINA
Is situated a mile and a balf north from this place, and
should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but conve-
nient little packet boat is continually plying between the
two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by many
72
THE NORTHERN
salt manufactories, built and building on both sides of the
canal. The mode of evaporation generally adopted here,
is that of boiling ; and a brief description will convey a
clear idea of the process. Each building contains sixteen
or eighteen large iron kettles, which are placed in two
rows, forming what is called "a block." They stand
about three feet higher than the floor } and under them is
a lai|$e furnace, which is heated with pine wood, and re*
quires constant attention to keep the water always boiling.
The water is drawn from a large reservoir at one end of
the building, after having been allowed to stand awhile
and deposit the impurities it has brought along with it. A
hollow log, with a pump at one end, and furnished with
openings against the kettles, is the only machine used in
filling them. The first deposit made by the water after
the boiling commences, is a compound of several substan-
ces, and is thrown away, under the name of ** Bittern ;"
but the pure white salt, which soon after makes its ap-
pearance, is carefully removed, and placed in a store room
just at hand, ready for barrelling and the market.
As the number of manufactories of this description is
almost daily increasing, it would be useless to attempt an
estimate of the quantity of salt they produce altogether.
Separately, however, each yields about 40 bushels a day,
and in 1824, the different buildings were supposed to
amount to nearly forty.
There are two large manufactories here, where salt is
made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated
by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The
process is slow, but seems to promise well. The reser-
voir of the principal one contains no less than 40,000
gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a furnace be-
low, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, resem-
bling half-thawed ice. The process has the advantage
of not wasting heat in raising steam. The crystallization
also is different from that produced by the other modes,
at least in secondary forms.
The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a
flourishing appearance, considering the shortness of the
time since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles
it has had to encounter in the unhealthiness of its situa-
tion. In 1825 it contained 1000 inhabitants ; the village of
TRAVELLER.
^3
Geddes, 520 ; and Liverpool, 375. The extensive marshei
which bound it on the west are extremely unwholesome
during the warmer seasons of the year, and the whole
neighbourhood is more or less infected with the fever and
ague : that terrible scourge, which has retarded so much
the settlement of many parts of this western country.
Since the marshes have been partially cleared and drained,
the disease has been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped
that time and industry will reduce its ravages still further,
if not entirely eradicate it.
The branch canal which runs through this village, is
applied to other valuable purposes beside those of trans-
portation. A sluice which draws off a portion of the
water towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn
several mill wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises
the water of the salt spring destined to supply the manu-
factories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame
building shows the spot from which all the kettles and the
pans of both these places derive their supplies : that for
the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, and the
pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours.
The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, but
in its present state presents no very remarkable appear-
ance, as there is little commotion visible on the surface,
and the source would seem by no means equal to the
great draughts which are continually made upon it.
The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile.
It is 6 miles long and two broad, and must receive a con-
siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the
marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. The
valley is surrounded by lime-stone hills with petrifactions,
and gypsum is found in great quantities.
** The American Sdt Formationf'* says Dr. Van Rensse-
laer in his * Essay,* " extends over the continent from the
AUegbanies to the Pacific, between SI'' and 45<^ N. Lat.
In this immense tract, rock salt has been occasionally
found ; but its locality is more generally pointed out by
brine springs.'* The salt springs in this state are in the
counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, Ontario, Niagara,
Genesee, Tompkins-, Wayne, and Oneida, but this is the
most valuable on various accounts. During the year end-^
74
THE NORTHERN
iog Aug. 1823, 606,463 bushels were manufactured here.
In 180U there were only 42,754.
45 gallons of water make a bushel of salt. At Nantucket
350 gallons of sea water are required.
The following approximated analysis uf the water of this
spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 40
gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline extrack
Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. — oz.
Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde of iron, — 6^
Sulph. Lime 2 4
Muriate Lime, 1 1S|
and probably muriate magnesia, and sulph. soda.
i
Fbom Syracuse to Rochester.
^ As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the
canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omit-
ted until we reach that part of the country on the return
from Buffalo.
By ihe eanot, 99 mUes. Weed's Basin 26 m.-^A coach
to Auburn, 8 m. for 50 cents. 11m. Montezuma Salt
Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The canal
across the marshes was constructed at a vast expense. 35
m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 m. for 75 cents.
The Great Embankment, 72 feet high, extending 2 m.
Antiquities. In the towns of Onondaga, Camillus,
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient towns and forts,
of which a description will be found in Yates and Moul-
ton's new History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In Pompey
the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the re-
mains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the
corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 500
acres. De Witt Clinton, the present Governor of this
state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. and
Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the north
line. See also North American Review.
In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three
acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a
spring on the west, and a gate towards the east. Another
is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as large*
Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be picked up in
these places. (There is a bed of Coal in Onondaga.)
d here.
mlucket
r of this
ge. 40
b. — oz.
6i
4
ir by the
is omit-
le return
-A coach
ima Salt
he canal
nse. 35
5 cents,
ing 2 m.
amillusi
nd forts,
id Moul-
Ponopey
h the re-
ts at the
than SOU
r of this
Lit. and
he north
I ill, three
)ng, to a
Another
as large.
ed up in
aga.)
iH
TRAV£LL£K. i
76
ROCHESTER
If the largest and most flourUhing place in thii ptrt of
the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in point of
numbers, the township containing in 1825, 5S71 ; next
to Troy. It has several good inns, one of the best of
trhich is the ** Coffee House," near the canal bridge. It
Is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at the
upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and is con-
sequently destined to be the place of receiving goods pass-
ing up or down the river ; and at the same time eiyoys the
finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, iVom the
convenient and abundant supply obtained from the M\i.
Rochester now exceeds Utica in population. The
following statement of its growth and present condition
is copied from the Rochester Telegraph.
Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811,
and the first settlement made in 1812. Durinc Uie war
the increase was slow, and it was not until the btter part
of the year 1814, that any considerable addition was made
to the number of inhabitants. From that period to the
present, the increase has been constantly progressing. In
Septemper, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabitants ;
in August, 1820, 1502 ; in September, 1822, 3130, (which
included labourers on the public works ; the permanent
population at that time was estimated at about 2700.) In
1824, 4274; and in 1825, 5271.
The proposed canal from Genesee river to Olean on
the Alleghany, would be about 110 miles long, and cost,
as is estimated, about $1,320,000. It would open a valu-
able trade with the upper valley of the Ohiq, and much
increase the value of land.
Sulphur SpringSy Dathingy &c. — A Bathing House has
been erected at the Sulphur Springs, in Buflala*street,
with accommodations for ladies as well as gentlemen,
where baths may be had of sulphur, alkaline, and fresh
water, warm or cold.
There is an eye and ear infirmary, 1 bank, 6 meeting
houses for Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Methodists,
Friends, and Catholics, a court house, jail, &c.
The A 8
Oak Orchard 7
Cambria ...11
Lewiston •..IS
Niagara Falls....... ^
78
THE NORTHERN
The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lew-
iston, on Nii^gara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni-
agara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Canada
atLewiston: and Queenston if you do. Lockport may
also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 54
miles firom Rochester, where a wpgon awaits the arrival
of the coach, to take travellers to Lockport, 7 miles. It
will be proper, however, to pay your passive only to this
place, if you determine to stop here. The stage coach
stops at Lewiston for the night.
Instead of going by land f^om Rochester, it may be
more convenient to take passage in the canal boat to
Lockport ; and thence go to Hartland to meet the stage
coach.
Th^ RiDOE is a remarkable elevation, of little height,
and for the most part, very narrow, extending a great part
of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is often
perfectly level for several miles, and affbi ds an admirable
foundation for a road, and the stage road has, in conse-
quence, been laid along its top. The manner in which
this singular elevation could have been made, has excited
the speculations of many curious observers of nature, and
been explained in different ways. Some have imagined
that the ridge was, at some long past period, the shore of
Lake Ontario, and was thrown up by its waves. The
country between it and the lake, is so level as to ren-
der it very probable that the water has once overflowed
it ; but it is extremely difficult to understand how the
waves could have managed to barricade themselves out of
a tract of country, it therefore seems more rational to
adopt another theory : that the lake was formerly still
more extensive than is here supposed, and overflowed the
land some distance southward of this place, when a cur-
rent might easily have produced a bar parallel to the shore,
which, when left dry, might present the form of the
ridge.
The progress of improvement along this part of the
road, is very rapid and flattering. The ground presents
a slope on each side of the path, peculiarly well adapted
for home lots, gardens, and orchards ; and the iVequency
and facility of transportation give the inhabitants very
manifest advantages- Some well built, and even hand-
;e, Lew-
ie. Ni-
Canada
»rt may
land, 54
e arrival
iiles. It
y to this
;e coach
maybe
1 boat to
the stage
3 height,
;reat part
t is often
dmirahle
in conse-
in which
B excited
ture, and
imagined
i shore of
es. The
gis to ren-
verflowed
how the
ves out of
fttional to
nerly still
lowed the
len a cur-
the ahore,
in of the
art of the
1 presents
1 adapted
(Vequency
ants very
ren hand-
I-
N
i
1
1
^ 1
;^
1
■ f
"^
r ^
^-
TRAVELLER.
79
BUine bouses will be observed, wbicb are still few indeed,
but sbow that a good style has actually been introduced.
LooKPORT is one of the most advantageous sites for
machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down the
mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an extent of
135 miles. It is brought down by passing round the
double locks, and falls 55 feet into a large natural basin,
where two ranges of overshot wheels may be built, each
at least S5 feet in diameter. A little water is sufficient to
turn wheels of this description. The rocks are blasted
out to a depth of CO feet.
Within 5 or 6 years, the spot has been changed iVom a
wilderness to a village of 3 or 400 bouses, and about 1400
inhabitants.
It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Buffalo.
Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime,
containing organic remains : encrinltes, enthrocites, &c.
&c. crystals of carb. lime of various forms ; rhomboidal,
dog-tooth spar, 13 sided ; fluate of lime ; beautiAil crys-
tals of sulpnate of lime, sometimes enclosing the prece-
ding ; sulph. of strontian, earthy, or in long, flat, bluish
crystals ; pyrites *, sulphuret of zinc ; sulphuret of lead.
Collections of minerals may be purchased here.
The TnsoARORA Reservation is an oblong tract of
land reaching within a mile of Lewiston. This nation of
Indians are particularly worthy the notice of the traveller,
on account of the advances they have made in the arts
and habits of civilized life. They emigrated from North
Carolina near the beginning of the last century, at an in-
vitation from the Five Nations, and were admitted on
equal terms into their confederacy, which has since re-
ceived th§ name of the Six Nations. They have had a
cler^man settled among them for many years, and Chris-
tianity has been voluntarily adopted by them. Their vil-
lage has a flourishine; appearance, with some handsome
and well-cultivated farms, and a house built for public wor-
ship. They amount to about 250 individuals, and pre-
serve, in some degree, the Indian fashions in their dress,
although the materials are cloth, &c. Strangers may here
obtain moccasins and otherneat articles of Indian manu-
facture.
ao
THE NORTHERN
-'"^f.
'■e- •*ath among
e, although
lown, keep ;
i large rock
et long and
us of a lad-
I any where
of the pro-
with atre-
Forsyth to
, and he had
ure near it.
bold as to
w the cata-
of iU fall,
; water, the
hich in one
. The vast
e precipice,
ay is driven
I to the edge
ita near it,
very diffi-
weak lungs
th a distant
he cataract,
tremendous
steps, and
light or the
strong dri-
.^;^l
- ',* '
'. ••-'i. :
-;,«»,
IffJfV*'"'*!"*'' '," "T/T 'JT'' '^
1
■Hf
».r.
J^ifr'
ff •l>"
li
f*
<■».,
4*^1^
fr
•l ."•
^Vf.;
a (>
/■ /"■
^ ^-.■Ai
, v'} ?
.:^h
9n
n^MR NnRTHRRN
that ihttr n:
the in
i»aen he view*
''i'l !., *r <■•«■!«* j> ppn, ■
iii -.^ imUi way Trom '
.!5»!! i^ti^s winds .
t)8» tteap» of lo'
>'ii volunlaftly ifi
. :; baU Yny <}
iiuig to rrfet'f th"
■\ to the ob9ftr*<
•w ,■ and there
'■ : tb<* «'»tarn
iu'3. To rt.) '
Hi has bftfjt Jorr;^
i' hy ^ taK n)i»Mt
-;;{' path a«i«5.'.
CJ. i it' ■•
h you may dimb up >>y meflny; of ;\ l*«
d« !-, ar V (be best central view of ihe fali^ any wh»-
i lorm<'.ilf a part of the (
i"af« ogo,
with
u (.
It
a
HvMr.
Forwyth
rionn
»ixu;>
..
■.,»'.-e
and be t>>«
■ "1
ii»
ii')aj«iH AiH
f,;> vcnmrv. neat >
wowe
bo|<.l 51? '
V tbe. i'K
of ita U'i'-
■ i
'V
imitii iPadf? fa.
I »: t
ra;:r'
•jf. fikUina- water
:f the fixciivatocl hank, wirxh m '
\jbcf? f'^rr/k's a roof that ov«rhRR;»8 al*ot)t iO r>et» Tiif*
•mentn n(j
"■ f IrniBg dr«Tjchft«2 to the skm. It |« al»o very
vT brtathe ibc;r»^, jio Ibiu t.n'»*'^»"'V»ft «vitb wcalf ♦• ;
.. '''\ prit<]«^"tly to coDten' »* • »•>' ives \tith a >]»:•>
^v.„.t. , '.;■■. !»? 150 luean&toHtt*'*^ ^ ■ ■ ur-.dtrtbe.caliiB'a!
Iff! Uesirouij of fnploriiig tbi» tictt*e^«'
*■ >.i i attend very (^fiK'-fnUy la iheir sfi^p*, :
•■:••-!■» f>:i to be »,?;«ta!:ed hy the sigbt «>r •
•=r.''C< ar to bf; blifujed hr the »troi?^* ■■ •
■ay »:
there '.^'
I'o reiuu
Rf jt fofw
tall m*»'
p lu5 vi« '
ah i\a <«•-
, u\lliOU<:'
iargt-, ro^
a of ;\ 1<^'.'
any wht '
>f the pv
;vitb u l»
For»y».h
tthd TiiC b*»
I IN. nps.v
r the i'H^ '
of ila (*■'■'■
ik-h ill ' '
iif
» preci
to the ^■'' .
> 'vi-ry ^' •
\i\^\i '■•■'-■'
h ri ..'^ ■
I'
^i<
stgbt or '-'J'
MIA'UAmA,FTRO:M: BlBXiOir,
<%'
-v'«.
■v^;-
..#■■
(^
V
TRAVELLER.
«7
ving showers in wbich they will be continually inrolTed ;
as a few steps would plunge them into the terrible abyss
which receiTes the falling river.
The Burning Sprino.
About half a mile above the falls, and within a few feet
of the rapids in Niagara River, is a remarkable Burning
Spring. A house has been erected over it, into which ad-
mission is obtained for a shilling. The water which is
warm, turbid, and surcharged with sulphurated hydrc^ii
gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in th6 ground,
and is constantly in a state of ebullition. The barrel is
covered, and the gas escapes only through a copper tube.
On bringing a candle within a little distance of it, the gas
takes fire, and continues to burn vrith a bright flame until
blown out. By leaving the house closed and the fire ex-
tinguished, the whole atmosphere within explodes on en-
tering with a candle.
While on the Canada side of the Aills, the visiter may
vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village of
Chippewa and Lundy^s Lane, in this vicinity; which, durit^
the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of two
sharp contests.
The Battle of Chippewa.
In July, 1814, the British and American armies being
near each other. Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott to make
an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Capt.
Tonson*s division of artillery ; and the enemy's pickets
were soon forced to retire across the bridge. Gen. Rip-
ley came up in the afternoon and encamped with Gen.
Scott's advance.
The stranger may be gratified by examining the field of
these operations, by going to Chippewa Village, about two
miles above Forsyth's. The American encampment of
July 23d, is in the rear of a tavern near the road» about
a mile beyond Chippewa. The following description of
the battle is from an account ahready published.
*' On the morning of the 4th, the British Indians had
filled the woods contiguous to the American encampment,
ftS
THE NORTHERN
and commenced firing at the pickets. Reconnoitering
parties firom Chippewa were frequently obserred during
the day along the river road ; and information was re-
ceived that reinforcements had arrived.
" On the 5th, the same course was pursued. The In-
dians were discovered almost in the rear of the American
camp. At this moment Gen. Porter arrived with his
volunteers and Indians. General Brown immediately di-
rected them to enter the woods and effectually scour them.
Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley, were at the white house,
in advance reconnoitering. Gen. Porter's corps seemed
sweeping like a torrent every thing before them, until
they almost debouched from the woods opposite Chippe-
wa. In a moment a volley of musquetry convinced Gen.
Brown that the whole British force had crossed the Chip-
pewa Bridge, and that the action must become general.
He gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance, and
to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness to support. In a few
minutes the British line was dicovered formed and rapidly
advancing — ^their r^ht (the Royal Scots) upon the woods,
and their left (the prince regent's) on the river, with the
king's own for their reserve. Their object was to gain
the bridge across the creek in front of the encampment,
which, if done, would have compelled the Americans to
retire. Gen. Brown fearing a flank movement of the
enemy through the woods on the left, with a view to seize
the American reserve of artillery, directed Gen. Ripley
not to advance until he gave him orders. At the same
time he rode to the first line with bis staff and an escort
of 30 dragoons, in order to direct the whole movements
of the field, and animate the troops by his presence.
Meanwhile General Scott, under a most tremendous fire
from the enemy's artillery, crossed the bridge which the
enemy had endeavoured to gain, and formed his line.
The British orders were to give one volley at a distance,
and immediately charge. But such was the warmth of
our musquetry that they could not withstand it. At this
moment General Brown sent orders to Gen. Ripley to
make a movement through the woods upon the enemy's
right flank. With the 21st regiment he passed a ravine
in his front, where the men had to wade up to their chins,
and advanced as rapidly as possible- But before he com-
)
TftAYELLEK.
89
inenced filing from the woods into the open land under the
enemy's batteries, they had been completely broken by
the cool bravery and discipline of Gen. Scott's br^de,
and precipitated themselves across the Chippewa Bridge,
which they broke down on their retreat.'*
Although the Americans were not able to cross the
creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippewa
very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queenston.
In this afihir the British loss, in killed, wounded and
missine, was 614, and the American loss 339.
Nothing of importance occurred after thU until the
S6th of the same month, the date of
h
The Battle of Bridgewater, or Lundi's Lake.
•^ » w <^ v# ♦■
■'■ The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody
adtion is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an oli-
scure road, called Lundy's Lane. Since their retreat
froni Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements
of troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain ; and on
the 85th of July encamped on a hill, tvith the design of
attacking the American camp the next molrning. At 6 in
the evening. Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to advance
and attack them, which was immediately done ; and in
coiijunetion with Gen. Ripley the attack was commenced
in an hour. The British were much surprised at seeing
the approach of their enemy at this hour, not having dis-
covered them until they left the woods and began to
march across the open level Aelds seen from Forsyth's
Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the left. The
battle tvas kept up with great resolution on both sides,
until half past ten at night. The armies, it is said, were
within twenty yards of each other for two hours, and
sometimes so mingled together, that, in spite of a clear
moon, platoons were sometimes ordered by oflieers of the
other army.
The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of the
American regiments, the day after the engagement, con-
tains some interestitig particulars :
''In the arrernoon the enemy advanced towards Chip-
I
90
TIIE NORTHERN
'
pewa with a powerful force. At 6 oVlock General Scott
was ordered to advance with his brigade and attack them.
He was soon reinforced by General Ripley's brigade:
tbe^ met the enemy below the falls. They bad selected
their ground for the night, intending to attack our camp
before daylight. The action began just before 7, and an
uninterrupted stream of musketry continued till half past
8, ivhen there was some cessation, the British falling back.
It soon began again with some artillery, which, with slight
interruptions, continued till half past SO, when there was
a charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con-
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering
on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each re-
tired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. Such a
constant and destructive fire was never before sustained
by American troops without falling back.
"The enemy had collected their whole force in the
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wel-
lington's army, just landed from Kingston. For two
hours the two hostile lines were within twenty yards of
each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an
officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the
Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They fre-
quently charged, and were as often driven back. Our re-
giment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the
British battery. We charged, and took every piece of the
enemy's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and
cannon until 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back
more than two miles. This was done to secure our
camp, which might otherwise have been attacked in the
rear. Our horses being most of them killed, and there
being no ropes to the pieces, we got off but two or three.
The men were so excessively fatigued they could not
drag them. We lost one howitzer, the horses being on
full gallop towards the enemy to attack them, the riders
were shot olf and the horses ran through the enemy's line.
We lost one piece of cannon, ivhich was too much ad-
vanced, every man being shot that had charge of it, but
two. Several of our caissons were blown up by their
rockets, which did some ii^ury, and deprived our cannon
TRAVELLER,
91
of ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon
could not be used with adrantage."
The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners,
878 ; and the Americans 860.
, » '■ ' -* ^'»
' • • ij ' '
WELLAND CANAL.
In 1825 a canal was begun on the Canada side of
Niagara falls, to connect the navigation of Lakes Erie
and Ontario, and will be calculated for the passage of
sloops. The Chippewa River is to be the feeder, and the
land presenting great facilities, the greatest confidence is
indulged of its success. The distance across is only 32
or 33 miles, and the expense i» estimated at less than a
million of pounds sterling. 300,000/. of the stock were
taken up in New- York. It is said, by the Canadians,
that this canal will be accessible from Lake Erie four or
five weeks earlier in the spring than the harbour of Buffa-
lo, in consequence of the ice being much heaped up at
the latter place by the current and winds.
It has been proposed to make canals for sloop, naviga-
tion from Prescott to Montreal. The advantages of those
works, taken into view with the Welland, are easy to esti-
mate. At present, the transportation of 1000 staves from
Lake Erie to Montreal costs $90. If all these canals
were made, the cost would be reduced to $50. Sloops,
carrying 6000 staves, could make six trips a year, and
gain $1800. A barrel of flour now pays 6s. for that dis-
tance, and would pay only 35. A ton of merchandise
now costs 4/. 55. for transportation between Prescott and
Montreal, and would then cost only U. 7s.
THE WESTERN LAKES.
We extract the following account of the great Western
Lakes from an essay published in the New- York States-
man:
1. The Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500
feet deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above
the elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 miles be-
low Gape Vincent.
«9
THE NORTHERN
2. Erie is 270 miles lon^, 60 miles wide, 200 feet deep ;
and its surface is ascertained to be 565 feet above tide
water at Albany.
3. Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth,
900 feet deep'; and its surface is near 595 feet above the
tide water.
4. Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth unknown ;
elevation the same as Huron.
5. Green Bay is about l05 miles long, 20 miles wide,
depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Michi-
gan-
6. Lake Superior is 450 miles long, 109 miles average
width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above the
tide water.
Hence it is easy to calculate that the bottom of Lake
Erie is not as low as the jToot of Niagara Falls ; but the
bottom of each of the other lakes, it will be observed, is
lower than the surface of ihe ocean.
Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reservoir
of the mighty voluipe that fills the rivers, expands the
lakes, and roars over the cataracts of Niagara, St. Law-
rence, &c. After making a semicircle of five degrees to
the south, accommodating and enrichine one of ue most
fertile and interesting sections of the globe, it meets the
tide a distance of 2000 miles from its source, and 5000
from the extreme point of its estuary, on the Atlantic
<:oast.
■rt;.a ;•:)
General Remarks.
There was, perhaps, no part of our frontier where the
war was regarded with so much dislike and dread as here.
Many of the inhabitants of this part of Canada were emi*
grants from New^York, New- Jersey, and Pennsylvania,
and a constant intercourse kept up across the river has
united the people on both sides like one people. M«^ny
of the militiamen who were here called into action Vj the
invasion of their territory, had friends and family relations
in the opposite army ; so that the contest was fjo them a
civil war in its effects, divested of all the impulse of
passion.
TRAVELLER.
93
A little attetition to the appearance and laitgdage of the
' l^ople, and their various manners and customs, will show
that they are collected from many different regions, and
have amalgamated very imperfectly. At the close of the
revolutionary war, the British government offered great
encouragement to settlers on this tract of country, fVom
whatever districts they might come. The situation of
the place necessarily excludes all distant intercourse with
other parts of the country ; and the original manners
have therefore remained with little alteration. There
are some Germans from Europe, and many from Penn-
sylvania, mingled with people from New- York and New-
Jersey ; and their descent is often apparent from their
countenances and dialect, as well as the aspect of their
dwellings and farms. There is a village a little removed
from the high road, where little else but German is
spoken.
The Ferrt across Niagara river is about half a mile
below the falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the
4ay, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the
current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it
has been necessary to build a stair-case.
, , TO BUFFALO, ON THE CANADA SIDE, i
28^ miles. i ,
To Chippewa, 2 miles.
Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) 16
(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cents each passenger.)
Buffalo, 2^
Opposite Buffalo, in Waterloo^ are the remains of Fort
Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war.
There are the remains of a strong wall, surrounded with
entrenchments reaching to the lake. The remains of the
British camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded
ivitb shot.
Battle of Erie. On the 17tb of September, 1814,
a severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort
Erie, when part of the American garrison, 1000 regulars
and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the British
works, about 500 yards in front of their line. The Bri-
tish had two batteries on their left, which annoyed the
fort, and were about opening a third. Their camp was
12
94
THE NORTHERN
about two miles distant, sheltered by a wood : their works
were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, from 12
to 15^ men, and a detachment of artillery.
Gen. Porter with the volunteers, CoL Gibson with the
riflemen, and M^j. Brooks with the 23d and 21st light infan-
try, and a few dismounted dragoons, were sent from the
extreme left of the American position, by a passage cut
through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and Gen.
Miller was stationed in the ravine between the fort and
the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley had a reserve
under the bastions.
A little before 3 P. M> the left columns commenced
their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the
same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and 3 of the
batteries, broke their line, and took their two block
houses. Battery No. 1 was soon after deserted, and the
guns were spiked ; and the mi^azine of No. 3 was blown
up. Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson killed.
The action lasted about an hour, which gave time for the
remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to march from
their camp and partake in it. The Americans at length
retired with prisoners, having succeeded in their object.
The British suffered so much, that Lieut. Gen. Drummond
broke up his camp on the 21st, and retired to his en-
trenchments behind the Chippewa River.
General Remarks on Upper Canada. This exten-
sive district has begun to increase in population with
great rapidity, and great exertions are making to intro-
duce improvements of various kinds. The Weiland Ca-
nal, which has already been spoken of, promises advan-
tages of great importance to the colonies ; and, as has been
before remarked, threatens to take off much of the trans-
portation from the western part of the New- York Erie
Canal.
Emigration has been so much encouraged by the Bri-
tish government, for the peopling of this part of their
possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, and
English, have come over within a few years. In the 7 years
preceding 1823, 68,000 emigrants arrived at Quebec; and
in 1825, 9000 ; of whom one-third settled in Lower Cana-
da, and one-third went to the United States. The popu-
lation of Lower Canada was then 420,679.
THAVELLEK. 9b
According to Fothergiirs report, there were, in Upper
Canada, 989,294 acres of cultivated land ; erist mUls,
304; saw mills, 386; merchant stores, 394; houses,
30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calves,
35,000; 390 townships surveyed, containing in all 17
million acres ; about two millions wild lands ; diistillers*
duty, $46,000. >i
The charasteristic of that part of Upper and Lower
Canada seen on the usual routes of travellers, is its flat-
ness and monotonous aspect. Between the two great
lakes there is some variety of surface ; but the view from
Queenston heights towards the east embraces a vast
plain, almost as level as the water itself, and still more
extensive. The surface is, in many places, taried by
gentle elevations and depressions, but not sufficiently to
make it appear uneven from a distance.
TO BUFFALO, ON THE AMERICAN SIDE, *
30s miles.
Tonnewanta Creek, where the canal passes 11 miles.
Black Rock 10 i
Buffalo 21
TO FORT GEORGE,
14 miles. !
Queenston 7 "» *'
Fort George 7
[The route from Niagara to ^Hhanyand the Springs will
be taken up after the route to Montreal.]
-i.i'
u
• ' ( : '
M
THE NOllTUEUN
ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL^
tfftt 392 miles.
Tboie who have never travelled through the state of
New- York, and have leinure to make so circuitous a route,
will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Rochester, and
take the line oithe Erie Canal, the Springs, Lake Geoi^e,
nnd Lake Cbamplain, in their way to Montreal. Many,
however, will prefer to take the more direct route, which
if by the steam boats through Lake Ontario, and is per-
formed in about two days. The American boat goes from
Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh,keoping towards the southern
shore, and touching at the principal ports. The British
boat makes a few stops, but steers a course very near the
middle of the lake, which is the boundary between the
two countries t she is URually out of sight of land about
twelve hours.
The British Boat goes from Queenston to Prescott ;
thence a stage coach to Cornwall, 50 miles ; Coteau du
Lac, steam boat, 36 ; Cascades, coach, 16 } Lachine,
steam boat, 33 ; Montreal, coach, 9.
American Boat.
Port Genbsbk, 72 m. At the mouth of the Genesee
River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here is a custom
house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe county. This
river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a gently winding
course about 125 miles in the state of New- York. It is
navigable only four miles from its mouth, to Carthage,
where the banks are high, rocky, and perpendicular ; and
there is a fine fall (104 feet, including the rapids, &c.)
about half a mile above. Stage coaches are in waiting
for Rochester, 6 miles. See Carthage, page 76.
Great Sodus Bat, 35 m. Here are three bays in suc-
cession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are three
Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the bay, only
10^ miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a good road
to it,
OswRoo, S8 m. This village is situated at the mouth of
Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet water.
Navigation ends half a mile above, except for boats,
TUAVELLEK.
whicli go 12 miles further. A very large button-wood
tree, 35| feet in circumference, a mile from tlie village
near the road. Thi« place is 36 miles from Salina, with
which it is to be connected by a canal. It is apprehended,
however, that such a work, which has been already com-
menced, will draw off a great deal of the transportation
from that part of the Erie Canal, west, into Lake Onta-
rio, and the Welland Canal round Niagara Falls.
OswEOo Fort, so fouious in the history of the French
and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the
river. The situation was very advantageous for the com-
mand of a large extent of country, as this river is the
common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state*
White this post was held alternately by the Freqch and
English, they could command a grea^ part of the trade
with the Five Nations of Indians, Mfpo inhabited |t|i$
country with which it communicated.
Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet Arom the
level of the w^ter ; and being oyeripoked by the emini^nce
on which Fort Ontario w&s afterwards erected, was fit only
for a defence in early times. A trading house was built
here in |722, and a fort ^ve years after. T%v was ex-
tended in the beginning of the French war of 1755, when
Fort Ontario was built. On the following ye^r. Gen.
Montcey|m came from Canada, and besieged the fortresses
with 3000 troops, and two vessels. Fort Ontario was
evacuated after one attack ; and on the following day,
August 14th, JFort Oswego sprrendered to the French,
with a large quantity of stores brought at great expanse
through the wilderness, and 21 cannon, 14 mortars, &o.
also, 2 sloops, and about 200 boats. The captors, how-
ever, did not think proper to hold the position, but imme-
diately abandoned it.
Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this
route, in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ;
but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. Fish, and
obliged to return.
In 1814, on the 6tb of May, the British attacked the
place, and after a loss of about 100 men, got possession
of it, but evacuated it the next day.
Sackett*s Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the late
98
THB NORTHERN
war, it became an important naval station, and increased
▼ery rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the lake, on
Hounsloir Baj. The harbour is divided into two by a
narrow point, and offeu {vreat advantages for ship build-
ing. A first rate man-of-war is still unfinished, on the
stocks, under a shelter, and another at Black River. On
the shore are seen the stone Barraeka, which enclose
about ten acres of ground.
Gapb Vincbmt, 90 m. The St. Lawrence is here divided
by Grand Island. Kinnton, in U. Canada, lies opposite,
at the distance of 11 miles.
MoRRiSTOWN. This is a small village, 10 miles from
Ogdensburg. The river is a little more than a mile in
breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There is a
number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and the
gentle slope of the land on the New- York shore, adds
a great degree of beauty to the scene.
General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813.
OoDENfteUROH, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the end
of the navigation, and here the steam boat stops. The
Tillage is pretty, contains some lai|;e stores, and carries
on considerable business. On the other side of the river
is Prescott, where the British steam boat stops. The
ruins of Fort Oswegolc^te, or Fort Presentation, may still
be traced. It was not very lai^e, and contalhed only a
bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, &c. It was
built in the beginning or middle of the last century. Grapes
are cultivated here with great success.
The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of
the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety of
forms, though never rising to any great elevation. They
might be compared with the islands of Lake George.
Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. Law-
rence begin. A number of mills will be seen at different
places on the shore. On Stony Island was a fort of some
consequence, which was taken by Gen. Amherst on his
way to Montreal, in the year 1760.
St. Rrois, 64 m. The Indian tribe which bears this
iiame iMtve a reservation of land here 1 1 miles by 3.
Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.)
Montreal, 9 m. /^^ ?
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TRAVELLER, f
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. i li'ittst
:\fiik-^l'i}
ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY.
I -ITT
Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar"
gin of Niagara River, a little waj from its head, and op-
posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was
burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but has since
been rebuilt and increased to a much greater size. Con-
gress have voted a remuneration for losses on this fron-
tier. Gen. Porter has a iSne house in this place. Black
Rock long disputed with Buffalo the privilege of having
the Basin of the<:!anal built in her harbour, and at last
obtained it. A pier about two miles in length was built
to secure the boats and vessels from the waves of the
lake, as well as to raise the water for the supply of the
canal to Tonnewanta Creek.
All this expense, however, is now considered as lost :
for the swiftess of the current in the river, and the heap-
ing up of the ice on^ tbe shores, prove great obstacles to
the navigation. In consequence. Black Rock suddenly
stopped its growth, and in 1S25, only one house was built
in the village, while 70 were erected the «ame year in
Buffalo.
• ,. 14. ^ ,., -
BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock.
Inks. — The Es^le Tavern ; and three other large ones.
The situation of this village is remarkably convenient
and agreeable, occupying a long bill of a gentle ascent,
rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The
principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking
out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented
with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome
dwelling houses, together with several public buildings,
all Erected since the burning of the village by the British
in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets,
which are fast increasing every year. In April, 1814,
only one houae was standing in'^the village, that of a
widow in the upper part of the street. A large piece of
ground has been left vacant in tbe middle of the town for
a public square, where several important roads meet, and
f
100
THE NORTHERN
which it b intended to ornament with public edifices. A
walk has also been laid out on the brow of the hill to-
wards the Lake. This is called the Terrace, and affords
a charming view upon the lake, the harbour, and the
canal, to Black Rock. In 1825, a small village grew up
below the Terntce, 6 taverns being built, with 65 other
houses, before which there was but one house. One of
them will accommodate 200 persons. The largest store
in the state is believed, to be one of these which is 90 feet
by 70, and 3 stories bigh. The township was found to
contain 6000 inhabitants that year.
The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by n&tore for
the junction of the two kinds of navigation which are here
brought together; the entrance from the Lake being shel<
tereaby the noint on which the light house is erected, and
the two small rivers which here unite their waters, af-
fording every convenience for landing and re^ipping
goods. The shores of these are very bold, and they are
connected by a natural channel, which serves the pur-
poses of a basin, as well as of an easy communication ;
and as the canal to Black Rock commences close by it,
the. inland transportation begins withotit more ado.
The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of tlie
Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy level,
where the excavations were much impeded by the water
which soaked through in great abundance. About half a
mile from Buffalo, the workmen bit upon a bed of old
half-decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of
six feet, and extended about half a mite. Many branches
and logs were discovered, which preserved all the grain
of the wood, but the greater part was a black mass of
matter, which, on being dried, burned with great readi-
ness. In some places, ashes and coals were found ; and
some of the logs appeared to have been washed and roll*
ed by the water of the lake before they were buried.
Beyond this place is a bed of silicious rock, which re-
quired much labour and expense in cutting and blastin;:
through it.
Lake Erie is 5G5 feet above tide water.
•li
.. <<
TRAVELLER.
101
VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE.
At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those ivho
are disposed to travel still ^tber westward. There is
little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which
would reward a comuiun traveller for the tedium of a
long ride over a country generally level, or for the incon-
veniences he would experience from the want of public
accommodations, and even the frequent absence of set-
tlements. The only mode of travelling, therefore, is by
water ; and great numbers of passengers pass every sea-
son between this port and the principal towns on the
Lake, chiefly in the steam boats. The price of a passage
to Detroit in the cabin is $15, and in the steerage, where
nothing is supplied but ship room and access to the kitch-
en, half price. The following are the stopping places on
tho passage to Detroit, with their distances.
From Buffalo to Erie, .....< 90 miles.
Erie* to Grand River, 75 ' > >
Grand River to Gleaveland, 30
Cleaveland to Sandusky, 60 >
Sandusky to Detroit, • 75
Total 330.-.
Green Bat, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a position
occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a large
number of Indians, for whose improvement some exer-
tions have been recently made. The principal tribe resi-
ding there is the Menominie, ur Wild Rice Indians, who
are both numerous and powerful, and partly civilized.
They have recently received an addition to their num
bers by having been joined by tho remnant of the Stock-
bridge tribe, to whom they have offered a share of their
* The Ohio Canal is to bt^giii at the mouth of Scioto River,
I'oUowing up its course, cross to the Muskingum, and follow
*hnt %Umm to Lake Erie. (See Oaxetkfir of Ohio.)
K
102
THE NORTHERN
land. The latter are civilized In such a degree as to have
pretty good farms, and to practice some of the mechanic
arts, though they principally depend on hunting and fish-
ing, particularly the latter, which is very important to
them.
Ancient Fortifications.
On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River abo, are
several large and interesting remnants of Ancient Forti-
fications ; but as they lie off the road, few travellers will
visit them. They appear to form part of a great chain
of defensive works extending from the eastern part cf
Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down the Ohio
and Mississippi Rivers to Meifico. This is the opinion of
Mr. Atwater, of Circieville, Ohio, who has published
some very interesting details, drawings, &c. connected
with them, in his ** Archaeologia Americana." A line of
old forts extends from Cataraugus Creek, 50 miles, along
the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylvania.
They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, although
now from 2 to 5 miles distant from the Lake, which is
supposed to have retired that distance since they were
built. Another similar line is said to exist in the rear of
them, on another parallel elevation -
Much curiosity and speculation have been called forth
by these singular monuments of antiquity. Some regard
them as marks of a civilized people ; others as the woriis
of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tradition referring
them to the latter are said to have been lately discovered.
Seneca Castle. The Seneca nation possess a lai'ge
and valuable tract of land adjoining Buffalo on the east,
and they have two villages 3 and 5 miles on the road.
The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confederacy
of the Five Nations, and have always held a con»picuous
rank in their history. They were formerly considered the
most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved this
superiority until the fatal defeat they received from Gen.
Schuyler, in 1778, since which they have made a less
conspicuous figure.
The residence of this nation after they fled from Cana^
,/t
j<*e^'
TRAVELLER.
193
da, before their enemies the Adirondacs, was principally
upon the shores of Seneca Lake, though their lands ex-
tended to Niagara River and north of Lake Erie, of which
they long had the command. They are now reduced to
a few hundred, some of them residing here, and some in
other Indian villages farther east. Besides the land they
possess, which is remarkable for its fertility, the nation
are in possession of a large sum in the United States
Bank stock, the dividend for which they receive annually.
The most remarkable person of the Seneca nation
now living, is the famous Red Jacket, who inhabits a
small log house, in a very retired situation, about four
miles from Buffalo, and one mile north of the road through
the reservation. He has rendered himself conspicuous
for many years by his eloquence, and formerly possessed
an extensive influence over his countrymen. But he is
now old and poor, and worse still, not too temperate.
He has always maintained a resolute opposition to the in-
troduction of the Christian religion among his nation,
and once succeeded in excluding all ministers from
entering the reservation. This was done by the authori-
ty of the state under a regulation intended to guard
against the admission of ill*disposed persons, who are al-
ways found ready to impose upon the Indians, get them
in their power, and endeavour, by fomenting uneasiness,
as well as by threats and promises, to induce them to re-
move and leave their lands.
BiLLT is another verv old man of the tribe, and of a
character very different from that of Red Jacket. He is
a good orator, but his real worth as well as his influence,
depends on the more substantial qualities of a sincere and
consistent Christian. His example, and the instruction
for some time enjoyed in the nation, have produced great
effects on a portion of the families. The traveller will
observe several farms under a degree of cultivation, and
may meet with individuals who conform pretty nearly to
the English style of dress, and have introduced some of
our customs into their houses. The greater part of them|
however, speak no language but Indian. '
104
THE NORTHERN
Stage Road from Buffalo to Camandaigua.
The first few miles of this road present very little in->
terest ; 15 or 2t) miles of it pass over an old causeway of
iogs, arid the country for that distance is a forest, with
hardly knj signs of inhabitants. The logs make the tra-
velling rough and disagreeable ; but as they are gradually
covered over with earth, the difficulties are lessening
every year. To those who are not accustomed to a coun-
try so new and wild as this, a word or two may not be
amiss on the manner in which roads are first made in an
American settlement. In thick forests, the surface of the
ground is covered to the depth of one or two feet with the
roots of trees, which are extremely ifficuit to be re*
moved, and are very dangerous for horses or oxen to pass
over. A close layer of logs, although itself sufficiently
rough, forms a much safer and more convenient path,
and is usually adopted with great advantage. There is
another reason for it — the elevation of the road above
the common surface, secures it from being overflowed by
the water, which in thf> moist seasons of the year would
impede the travelling in low and marshy places. When
the logs decay, they are apt to form bad ruts and holes,
which should be filled with earth or gravel. Indeed, the
usual practice is, as the road becomes more travelled, and
the inhabitants increase, to cover it all with a thick bed
of earth ; and roads thus formed are proverbial for their
excellence.
BATAVIA, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome
village, and contains the residence of Mr. Otto, the Agent
of the Holland Land Company, as well as the county
buildings, and the house of Mr. Elliot, the former agent
of the above-mentioned company.
At LEROY, 10 miles, a number of curious stones were
discovered in 1824, which were at first supposed to be
petrified Sea Turtles. They were found in the bed of
Allen's Creek, about 200 yards north of the village bridge,
and usually weighed from one to three or four hundred
TRAVELLER.
105
pounds, aUhough some have been picked up in another
place in the neighbourhood, not much larger than a man's
hand. Several were found imbedded in the lime stone
rock through which the stream has cut its way, luring ho-
rizontally, yet evidently of an older formation. They
consist of a dark coloured bituminous lime stone, which
readily splits in the middle, and betrays a number of
whitish crystalline veins, traversing each other nearly at
right angles, and growing thicker in the middle, and often
containing a quantity of yellow clay, or ochre, with a few
holes filled with a bituminous oily substance which flows
out. These stones certainly are very curious specimens,
but the original theory ia not likely to be received.
The Wadsworth Farm at Geneseo, is so far and so
justly famed for its size and fertility, and still more for
the admirable system of cultivation under which it is car-
ried on, that every man of taste who passes this way, will
find great gratification in stopping to see it, particularly
if he is personally interested in the improvement of agri-
culture.
Mr. Wads worth's farm contains about 4000 acres«
about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land on the banks
of the Genesee River. He combines science with prac-
tical knowledge in tbe management of it in such a manner
as to eigoy the proper benefits of both ; while he studies to
introduce all valuable improvements, he is careful to pre-
serve every method which experience has proved really
valuable. Time is here most systematically divided, and
labour is carefully saved in every case where an ingenious
machine or a wise expedient can be resorted to with ad-
vantage. Various branches of agriculture have been
tried on this fertile tract of country ; but the raising of
sheep has been found the most profitable, and the farm
has been almost entirely converted into mowing fields
and pastures.
The residence of tbe proprietor is in a fine and spacious
building, in a commanding situation ; and the whole as-
pect of the farm indicates the good order and method with
which it is conducted.
The Genesee meadows were formerly the residence of
a large tribe of Indiana of the Seneca nation ; and when
Gen. SuUivan reached this place in his march through the
K2
106
THE NORTHERN
country, he found and burnt a considerable village of 120
log houses, on the second bank, which had been deserted
at his approach. One of his scouts was cut off while his
army was near the west bank of the river, and only one
man escaped ; but the Indians constantly fled as ht- ap-
proached, and there was no fighting in all this western part
of the state. A large tract of fine land adjoining the
Wadsworth farm is now possessed by a woman belonging
to the Seneca nation. She is called *' the Indian White
Woman,''* as she was taken prisoner from some frontier
settlement, many years ago, when she waa very young,
adopted by the savages, and married to a Chief of the
tribe.
The remains of a Mammoth were dug up about half a
mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. There were S
teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a thigh bone 3 feet
long, the lower bone of the leg 3 feet 6 inches, &c. They
lay between strata of vegetable mould and sand.
West Bloomfield, beyond the Genesee River, is one
of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and pre-
sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care and
yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkably well
in all this western country, as the slightest attention to
the orchards will sufiiciently prove ; and while in smooth-
ness and neatness the fields rival those of the oldest dis-
tricts farther east, the orchards exceed them in luxuriance
and products. The Black Apple is a species of fruit
which has been said to be peculiar to this region. The
darkness and peculiarity of its colour, are sufficient to
distinguish it at a considerable distance ; and the flavour
is fine, although it does not arrive at maturity until it has
been kept some weeks in the winter.
East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general
remarks just made may tvith justice be applied to this
place also.
CANANDAIGUA.
Inn. Blossom's St&ge House.
This ia one of the finest of the western towns, and its
principal street runs along the ridge of a commanding
hill, nsing from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It
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sably well
mention to
n sinooth-
olderit dis*
uxuriance
is of fruit
ion. The
ifficient to
he flavour
intil it has
he general
ied to this
rns, and its
nnmanding
I Lake. It
&»%»•
lished
"Th
Canand
The
Bristo
terian ^
and a si
fissures
the bro(
into bu
but wh(
steady
guished
The
miles {
a tract
valley c
of 40 01
The
afield
I
TRAVELLEU.
107
is wide, and contains many large and handsome housef,
particularly that of the late Gideon Granger. It is to be
regrck^'''^ when the fine appearance of this town is con-
sidered, that it should not huve been built nearer the lake,
and on some of those fine elevations which overlook this
beautiful sheet of water. The road, in passing Canan-
daigua Lake, commands a finer view uf scenery than on
any of the other lakes it passes. The banks are high and
variegated, and at the distance of two or three miles, rise
to an imposing height, and add a great degree of beauty
to the scene. A number of gentlemen^s seats are seen
along the western bank ; and a little way off in the lake
on the same, is a small rocky island, where the Seneca
Indians carried all their women, children, and old men,
when Gen. Sullivan appeared against them.
>Stage coaches go to Rochester every day.
Burning Springs.
Springs of water^ charged with inflammable gas, are
quite common in the vicinity of this place. The follow-
ing description of them is extracted from an account pub-
lished in a Canandaigua newspaper in February, 1885 :
" These Springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and
Canandaigua.
The former are situated in a ravine on the west side of
Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from the North Presby-
terian Meeting House. The ravioe is formed in clay slate,
and a small brook runs through it. The gas rises through
fissures of the slate, from both the margin and the bed of
the brook. Where it rises through the water, it is formed
into bubbles, and flashes only when the flame is implied ;
but where it rises directly from the rock, it burns with a
steady and beautiful flame, which continues until extin-
guished by storms, or by design.
The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to two
miles south-westerly from' the village of Rushville, along
a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bottom of the
valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at an elevation
of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it.
The latter have been discovered within a few years, in
a field which had been long cleared, and are very nume-
,T"
100
THE NORTHERN
rou8. Their places are known by little hillocks of a feir
feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark
bituminous mould, which seems principally to have been
deposited by the gas, and through which it finds its way
to the surface, in one or more currents. These currents
of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a steady
flame. In winter they form openings through the snow,
and being set on fire, exhibit tlie novel and interesting
phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in contact with
nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes
of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably
from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which
sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas
issuing from their tops ; the whole when lighted in a still
evening, presenting an appearance even more beautiful
than the former.
Within a few days, the proprifitors of this field have
put into operation a plan for applying the gas to economi<
cal purposes. From a pit which vfixs sunk in one of the
hillocks, the gas is conducted through bored logs, to the
kitchen of the dwelling, and rises through an aperture a
little more than half an inch in diameter, in the door of a
small cooking stove. When inflamed, the mixture of gas
and common air in the stove first explodes, and then tlie
stream burns steadily. The heat evolved is considerable;
so that even this small supp'y is said to be sufficient for
cooking. In another part of the room, a stream of the
Z^% from an orifice one-eighth of an inch in diameter, is
kindled in the evening, and aflbrds tae light of two or
three candles. The novelty of the spectacle attracts a
concourse of visiters so great, that the proprietors hare
found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a public
inn.
The springs of the town of Canandaigua are situated
on both sides of the lake, within three miles of the village.
They have not been particularly examined.
Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that it
consists principally of a mixture of the light and heavy
carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly the
preponderance ; and that it contains a small proportion of
carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a little oily or
bitominoirs matter in solution. It burns with a lambent,
TKAVELLEH.
109
YcHouish (lanrie, scarcely inclining to red, with small icin-
tillations of a bright red at its base. It has the odour of
pit coal, it produces no smoke, but deposits, while burn-
ing, a small quantity of bituminous lampblack. It is re-
markable that the hillocks, through which the gas rises,
are to ally destitute of vegetation. Whether the gas is
directly deleterious to vegetable life, or indirectly, by in-
terrupting the contact of the air of the atmosphere, it is
certain that no plant can sustain life within the circle of
its influence.
It is well known that thb gas is found abundantly in
coal mines ; and being accidentally set on fire, (mixed as
it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) has
many times causetL terrible and destructive explosions.
The writer cannot vearn that it has ever been known to
be generated in (he earth, except in the presence of coal ;
and hence the inference is strong, that it proceeds from
coal. If we add to this the fact, that there is no sub-
stance in the earth, except coal and other vegetable and
animal remains, from which, by any known natural pro-
cess, the elements of the gas could be obtained, the proof
almost amounts to demonstration. The oily deposite
which has been mentioned, may be considered as a ftirther
proof of the correctness of the inference."
The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passes
over a singular tract of country, the form of which will
not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The
distance is 26 miles ; and the ground gradually rises by
large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance,
and descends in the same manner on the other side to
Seneca Lake. These steps or terraces, appear to hare
been formed by those strong currents of water of which
geologists speak, which at some ancient period of time
have evidently passed over many tracts of country in
different parts of the world. The ridges and channels
thus formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a
considerable distance, corresponding both in form and di-
rection with the numerous lakes which are found in this
part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have been
traced here. From the middle ridge the view is extensive ;
but the surrounding country is of too uniform a surface
to present any remarkable variety of scenery. The form
110
THE NORTHERN
adapts it peculiarly to agriculture , indeed, did the soil but
correspond in richness, the whole scene would be peculiar-
ly delightful in an agricultural point of view.
;.- j;' '■/'. •* GENEVA.
This town occupies a charming situation at the head
of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank,
which rises to a considerable elevation above the surface,
and affords room for a broad and level street. The build<
jngs in this village are remarkably neat and handsome.
It contains one of the most comfortable Inns in the state,
keptby Mr. Lynch.
A college has lately been instituted in this place.
Seneca Lake
is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is un*
usually great, and the water clear and very cold, to which
is referred the scarcity of fish. There is a remarkable
phenomenon long observed by those who reside near it,
which has never been satisfactorily accounted for. The
water has a regular rise and fall every seven years. This
is perceptible along the shore, but more practically esta*
blished in the experience of the boatmen, who are ac<
customed to conduct boats through the Seneca River, to
the canal, as they formerly did to Oneida Lake, and down
the Mohawk River.
The land on the borders of Seneca Lake is valuable for
many miles, and is inhabited by a mixed population from
New-Jersey, Maryland, &c. with a number of English
families. Towards the southern end of the lake, the soil
changes for the worse ; but in a few years the productioni
of these shores may be expected to form a much more im-
portant figure than they do at present, among the vast
amount of transports that annually flow down the great
Canal.
A stage coach runs from Geneva down the west side of
the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga Lake, to
the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not interesting, and
th.e more agreeable mode of reaching that village is by
id the soil but
d be peculiar-
sit the head
estern bank,
e the surface,
The build,
id handsome.
1 in the state,
place.
\
s depth is un*
sold, to which
a remarkable
eside near it,
ted for. The
I years. This
actically esta*
who are ac.
leca River, to
ike, and down
13 valuable for
tpulation from
er of English
i lake, the soil
le productioni
auch more im-
long the vast
>wn the great
e west side of
lyuga Lake, to
iteresting, and
: village is by
■Ti|p
takinj
neva,
is 40 1
Ita we
fevrCei
end, w
plies h
the fak
the nei
same d(
boats 01
a consji
croivdec
irell as I
est that
connect!
the travc
CatakiU,
direct ro{
noticed t
to lead
probably
„*The
Road, ga
veys were
Prom Cat
*>om Kii
the coil
Tio«i,|
From J«J
I ^ Bingha]
FromNe,
Fromopr
"rom Ny<
ofMoi
I There l
' mlfMioner]
J{ta).,l
TRAVELLKU.
Ill
taking the steam boat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles from Qt-
neva, on the great mail route.
Catuga Lake
is 40 miles in length, and generally about 2 in breadths
Its water is shalloH', the depth beins generally only a
few feet. A fine bridge is built across it near the northern
end, where it is a mile wide. The steam boat Experiment
plies between Cayuga bridge and Ithaca, at the head of
the lake, in such a manner as to meet the stage coaches on
the new route from Ithaca to New- York, returning the
same days. It is small, and frequently used to tow canal
boats on the lake ; but it is large enough to accommodate
a considerable number of passengers, and is firequently
crowded with parties from the neighbouring country, aa
well as traveller- as the excursion is one of the pleasant-
est that can b"; t 'cc^i in this part of the state. It also
connects sererv n artant lines of stage coaches, which
the traveller wiU ^o well to notice if he wishes to go to
CatakiUf JVetodur^, JWio-ForA;, or ^eW' Jersey, by the most
direct route. These routes will be more particularly
noticed on arriving at Ithaca. [The proposed State Road
to lead through the southern counties to Lake Erie, will
probably, if constructed, pass here.'*']
* The commissioners for the survey of routes for the State
Road, gave the following statements m 1825, before their sur-
veys were completed.
Miles,
From Catskill, or Athens, to Bath, by the way of Ithaca, 221
From Kingston, by the way of Colchester and Walton, in
the county of Delaware, and Spencer in the county of
Tioga, to Bath, . 22T
From Kingston, by the way of Warwarsing, Dfi'Osit,
Binffhampton, Owego, and Newtown, to Bath/
FromNewburgh to Bath, by the way oi Depo^»
From opposite Poughkeepsie, through New Valtz, &c. to
Bath,
From Nyaek, in Rockland county, to ^th, by the way
of Montioello and Shohocken,
There are but two points on Lak« Erie to which the com-
ml9Hioneri expense of a road, " bavin? a solid founda-
tion and coated with * durable and smooth surfoce," at $2000
per milCj including bria^es ; making a total expense of $760
000. It IS their belief that the work inav be completed in t\v<
years from the ensuing sprint.
ie dollar ,-
ure some-
y too mo-
y striking
the lake,
, where a
ice into a
reral valu-
bout three
ts can pass
^he distance
rom Bath to
ipott the en-
Miles.
rie, 365
»rdaiid, 370
nd,
. TRAVELLEll.
113
376
373
V -■ 379
^r 407
the Hudson
Bime places to
d routes, may
rying from a
cent will not
he soil of the
adapted to the
aall expense.
n of the coun-
laps no portion
itural iacilities
le adoption of
al for that pui-
( routes,
commissioner!
asolidfounda
Ice," at $2000
pense of $760
iinpleted in t\T •
the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to the
street.
The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here
centre three roads to CatskiU, J^tvohurght and JsTeW'York,
The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson River,
the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and
the third furnishes c ily the shortest route to New- York.
The Cascade.
This beautiful and romantic scene already spoken of is
about 3 miles from the village, and should by no means
be left unseen. The waterfall is one of the most pic-
turesque that can be imagined. The height and solemnity
of the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their shadowb,
and the beauty of the sparkling spray, unite to produce
an impression of pleasure which is rarely experienced at
the sight of any scene, however extraordinary for beauty
or sublimity.
Great quantities of plaster of Paris, (sulphate of lime,)
are transported from this neighbourhood to different parts
of the country. Grain, lumber, &c. are also sent down
the lake and towards the south by the Schuylkill River.
This is near the dividing line between the waters which
flow north and south.
The astonishing success which has accompanied the
enterprising spirit of the state in forming the Grand Ca-
nal, has acted as a powerful stimulus in different parts of
the country, and numerous works of the same. kind have
in consequence been proposed east, west, and south.
Many of these have been found impracticable, and a large
part of those which may hereafter be carried into execu-
tion, relate to regions removed beyond the sphere of a
work of so local a character as this little book. The
canal commissioners of New- York, in 1826, reported the
results of surveys, and estimates for the routes of 13 ca-
nals, some of which extend into other states.
One of these is for the Cayuga and Susquehannah Canal*
The route is from Cayuga Lake, near the mouth of Casca-
dilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the valley of
the Oswego to the Susquehannah. The amount of lockage
is 760 feet ; the disthnce 31 miles ; and the estimated ex>
pense 320,000 dollars.
L
iU
THE NORTHERN
The proposed canal to unite Cayuga and Seneca waters
-ivith the Erie Canal, it has been decided, is to pass
through Waterloo, from Geneva down the valley of Sene-
ca lUver to Montezuma. V
: ' AUBURN
18 another beautiful village, and merits the name it has
borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is un-
fortunately placed at some distance from Owasco Lake,
and therefore is deprived of the picturesque character
which it might have enjoyed. There is a Theological
Seminary in Auburn, which, in 1825, had nearly 50 stu-
dents. There are several handsome public buildings i|i
this place, but the most important is the . ^
*"' '' State Prison.
This institution having been for two or three years
managed by Mr. Lynds, on a system in some respects
new, and with remarkable success, merits particular notice.
"The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost
about $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a hol-
low square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent,
being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35
• feet in height. The north wing of the building differs
very much in its construction flrom any building of the*
kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of the
greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best aids
to prison discipline, which has been anywhere made.
The workshops are built against the inside of the outer
wall, fronting towards the yard, from which every shop is
visible, forming a continued range of 940 feet. With
such alterations as it may undergo, it can be made to hold
1100 convicts.
The new one is thus described in the newspapers.
One building designed to contain 400 cells, covers only
206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of cells,
each containing 80 in two parallel lines, divided in the
middle by a wall two feet thick. The walls between the
cells are one foot thick. The ctHs are 7 feet long, 7 hiffh.
TRAVELLER.
115
;a waters
to pass
of Sene-
ime it bas
It is UTl'
isco Lake,
churacter
'heological
rly 50 stu<
lildings i|i
hree years
le respects
lular notice.
7, and oost
3in of a liol*
in extent,
lost part, 35
Iding differs
Idingof thei
B one of the
the best aids
jhert made,
of the outer
jvery shop is
feet. With
made to hold
spapei's.
, covers only
iries of cells,
ivided in the
i between the
t long, 7 hish.
•
and 3^ wide, intended to receive only one convict in each.
Each cell has a ventilator extending to the roof, and is lO
constructed in front, that the prisoners can neither con-
verse or make signs to each other. The area around the
cells is 10 feet wide and open to the roof, which covers
the galleries of the several stories. Besides the moral
benefit arising from keeping the prisoners separatei it
unites that of economy and security. From the construc-
tion of the prison, 5 small stoves, 6 large and IS small
lamps, all out of reach of the convicts, afford heat and
light to 555 cells ; and one centinel is sul&cient to 400
prisoners.
The expenditures at the Auburn prison are pro-
nounced to have been neither wasteful nor improper. The
number of convicts in 1823, na. 300; the gross ejptnan
of the prison $20,589, the earnings of the prisoners
$9,807, net expense to the public 910,781, and net ex-*
pense for each convict during the year 034 78. The
gross expense of the prison at New- York in 1824,
was $55,792, the earnings of the prisoners #33,316, the
number of convicts 608, the gross cost for each 991 67,
and the net cost 922 67. A large prison has been built in
Westchester after this plan,to supersede that of New-Yorfc.
The correct discipline observed in this prison, (say
the committee,) only require to be seen, to be duly appre-
ciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their la-
bour, and their quietness under the privations of the
prison, prove, that the discipline is complete and effective ;
and the main cause of the order and decorum thus ob-
served, is, that in all matters of discipline, there is but
one head or principal. The inspectors of this prison,
have resigned to the principal keeper, Mr. Lynds, the
discretionary power of directing and controlling the dis-
cipline and punishment of the convicts, and the conduct,
deportment, and o'Ay of the assistant keepers. This
measure of the inspectors is both wise and judicious, and
has produced throughout the establishment the most happy
results ; and the gentleman in whom this confidence is
placed, is in every respect worthy of it ; for he is a man
eminently qualified for the station he occupies ; possesses
more than common talents and firmness as a disciplina-
rian ; appears to devote his whole mind to the duties of
116
THE NORTHERN
his office, and has a taste for order, neatness, and regular-
ity, seldom surpassed."
Minute observations on the coinparative labour of a free
person and a convict show that the latter does not accom-
plish as much in a day as the former. In the year 1823,
the balance against the New- York prison was $18,633 ;
and that against the Auburn prison $10,780. The com-
mittee state that the kind of work proper for a state pri-
son should unite the following properties : that the de-
mand should be great, the material cheap, the trade easily
learned, a business which cannot be so conducted by ma-
chinery as to reduce the wages too low, and a trade in
which hard work can be enforced and made the more pro-
fitable.
The pardoning power ought to be exercised with grealt
caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance
has so much contributed to do away the terrors of punish-
ment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our spe-
cies in obtaining a pardon.
Jineient Fortifieatwna. There are some remains of an-
cient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well
as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, and
Pompey.
If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage
coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, and car-
ries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal boats,
which pass at stated periods.
From Auburn to Syracuse,
^2^ the Cand, 34 miles.
(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8
Jordan Village, in Camillus township, 6
A proposition has been made for a canal from
Jordan to Homer on the Susquebannah,
which has been found practicable. The dis-
tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will require
to be dug.
Canton, (half-way village between Buffalo and
Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183
from the latter,) > . . . . €
miles.
TRAVELLER. in
Geddes Village, (with salt-works,) 13 miles.
Syracuse, *• 2
By the Road^ 28 miles.
Skeneateles, 8
Marcellus, 6
Onondaga, 10
Syracuse, 4
Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well as
of Salina, the 8dt Springj and 8aU ManufaeUrrift, see
page 70.
Although the routes east of Syracuse, both Ky the canal
and by the road, are given in other places, and although
they may be traced on the maps, it may perhaps be con-
venient to have them repeated in the reversed ordet^ for
travellers going towards Albany. {For places see Iiidex.)
From Syracuse to Utica,
By the Canal, 61 miles.
Manlius Landing, 9 miles.
Chitteningo Creek S
(A curious petrified tree lies near this place a few
steps from the canal, which was found with
many of its branches.)
Canastota Village and Basin, 8
Oneida Creek, 5
Wood Creek, 13
Rome, 3
Oriskany Village, 8
Whitesborough, 3
Utica, 4
By the Roadj 48 miles.
Derne, 3
Manlius, 3
Sullivan, 9
Oneida Creek, . . . : 11
Vernon, 5
L 2
n»
THE NOUTHEKN .
Westmorelandt 6 mile^v
New Hartford, 7
IJ tica, 4
For Utica, flee page 64, for Hamilton College, do.
and for Trenton Falls, 65.
Projected Canal.—- A plan has been recently formed
for the construction of a canal from Utica down the Una-
dilla River, to intersect the Susquehannah at some point
near the town of Bainbridge, in the county of Chenango.
From Utica to Schenectady,
By the Canal f 79 1 miles. \
Lock, No. 63, (end of the long level, which be-
gins westward at Salina, and extends to this
place, 69) miles, without a lock,) 9 miles.
Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer Village, 5
Little Falls S
Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet high-
er than the canal, 712 above high water in
Hudson River, ana about 145 above Lake Erie, 1
Old Mohawk Cattle, 5
Fort Plain, fi
Canajoharle, 4
(Stage coach hence to Cheny Valley Tuesday
and Friday.)
Anthony's Nose, 6
(This scene is represented in the plate from this side.
The bluff on the right is Antbony^s Nose, on the top of
which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further doivn
than It has ever been explored.)
Schoharie Creek, 1 j
Amsterdam Village, (across the river.) 5
Flint Hill, 6
Rotterdam Flats, 8
Schenectady, 3
Road to Albany, 15i miles. Numerous coaches go
every day. A rail road is to be constructed.
"
♦I'
1RAV£LL£U.
119
HoAD TO Ballston AND SARATOGA. Both these roads
offer the shortest and most expeditious communication
with the places to which they conduct , and if the travel-
ler should be in pressing haste, he should avail himself of
them.
To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal
boats are recommended to the Mohawk Bridge, although
they are liable to many delays at the numerous locks
aloDg this difficult but interesting part of the canal.
From Schenectaot to Albany,
By the CarnU, 28^ miles.
Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to Al-
bany and Ballston — an interesting scene,) . . . 4^ miles.
Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses
the Mohawk,) i
The Young Engineer ^ a rock on the right, so call-
ed, where the cutting is the deepest on the
whole route, 32 feet deep, 4
WatHoixGap, 5^
(A natural channel through which the canal is led more
than 200 yards. The rotks are Grawacke slate. In the
river is the Wat Hoix Knpid, which the Indians called
the Evil Spirit, and sometimes the White Horse.)
Lower Aqueduct, 1138 feet long, on which the
canal crosses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone
abutments and piers 2|
The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Gohoes Falls. 2
(Canal boat to Clifilon Park — route to the
Springs.) See p. 52.
The two Locks, 9 feet each, i
The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over
tbe Mohawk, i
(Hence to Waterfurd, on the road to Ballston, Sarato-
ga, &c. is about a mile and a half, where stage coaches
are' continually passing in the visiting season. By leaving
the boat here, or a little below, where the canal meets the
road, a seat may frequently be found in a passing coach,
to Waterford or the Springs ; or, some may prefer to
take a boat on the Northern Canal, which is close at
hand. We shall take up the land route after giving the
180
THE NORTHERN
few remaining objecte on the way to Albany, and refer*
ring the reader to page 48 for a description of that city.)
The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from
Lake Champlain, meetf the Erie Canal, i mile.
Weit Troy 1
(Here it a cluster of buildings about the basins where
the Troy boats lie. The dam across the Mohawk will
afford an easy communication bet«veen the canal and
Troy, which is seen on the opposite side. A good horse
ferry-boat plies below.)
United States' Arsenal,. 1
The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer,
called Rensselacrwyck, 5
Albany, 1
V^
TRAVELLER.
121
ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS.
{For the Road and Canal between Albany and Water-
ford) see page 50, and onward.] . .
WATERFORD.
1 i' i Vi I
This village is situated on the west side of the Hudson,
across which the communication Is convenient by menns
of the first bridge we have seen over this river. Lansir.,;*
burgh stands opposite, and is a place of considerable 8128,
but wearing an aspect of gradual decay. The streets of
Waterford are wide, regular, and handsomely built.
Some of the private houses are remarkable for their neat«
ness. There are numerous rocky islands, with precipi-
tous sides, at the mouth of the Mohawk River, which are
aeen at a little distance below the bridge. The boats on
the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk in full view of
them, through guard locks, and are poled across, the cur-
rent being stopped by a dam. The Cohoes Cotton Man-
ufactory is on the south side of the river, at that place,
and only about a quarter of a mile from the bridge. Du-
ring the warm season of the year, this place is a great
thoroughfare, lying on two roads to Albany, as well as in
the way to both Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake
Geoi^e, &c. It is 2H miles to Ballston Springs, and 24
to Saratoga.
The approach to the village from the south-west, by the
canal and the road, is uncommonly beautiful. It lies
quite below you, with a little meadow in front, buv tided
by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses mingled
with fine trees, and Diamond Hill rising behind, with its
sides half cultivated, and half covered with -v^oods.
Jnn, Demarest's Stage House.
A few crystals are found on Diamond Hill.
The shortest road from Waterfurd to Ballston Springs
is through ^ewtown^ 18| miles. It passes over higher
land than that through Mechanicville, and perhaps is not
mere sandy, but is not furnished with stage coaches. The
usual road will be given afterwards.
122
THE NORTHERN
On leaving Waterford, it verges to the west, and rises
to an elevation of considerable height, which affords a
view towards the south over a charming piece of country :
the high, half-cultivated range of hills, which extend some
miles down the Hudson in the rear of Lansingburgh and
Troy, together with a broad strip of land on each side of
the river, including the tract on the west bank, divided by
parts of the Champlain and Erie Canals, and the mouth
of the Mohawk River. From two miles further on,
Saddle Mountain appears in view in the East, with a
single peak more in the north, and at a still greater dis-
tance.
Much of this road is sandy, and a great deal of wheat
and clover is cultivated.
Newtown, 3^ miles from Waterford.
Half Moon, 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun*
tains are plainly visible in clear weather.
Second Inn in Half Moon, 4.
About 3 miles beyond this place, the view opens, and
shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphitheatre :
the Greenfield Mountains in the west stretching far
away to the north, and the Vermont Mountains in the
east, which seem to approach them as they retire, with
several fine and prominent peaks, particularly one which
is about 3 miles beyond Bennington, Vt. famous for the
defeat of Col. Baum, in the revolution. Afterwards the
road passes near Ballston village, but without affording a
sight of it ; and the Springs, being situated in a little val-
ley, the first intimation you have of your approach is the
sight of several tall evei^reens, and a small pleasure
house, on the top of a sharp hill, in the rear of Aldridge's
boarding house.
From Watbrford to the Springs, bt
Mechanicville.
This is the usual road, but ofiers few objects of in-
terest.
Mechanicville, or the Borough, 8| miles from Wa-
terford. Here the coaches generally stop for breakfast or
dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, whence
the place derives its former name.
TRAVELLER.
123
and rises
affords a
country :
end some
urgb and
sh side of
livided by
he mouth
irther on,
it, with a
reater dis-
I of wheat
nil Moun-
openS) and
thitheatre :
itching far
ins in the
etire, with
one which
0U8 for the
rwards the
affording a
a little vai-
oach is the
i\\ pleasure
r Aldridge's
BT
)jects of in-
IS from Wa-
breakfast or
ory, whence
DuMNiKG-STREET. Here is a little village, at which
the road turns off west for the Springs. About a mile
south of it| we cross the Northern Canal.
Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that
is SmilVs Tavemf where those will stop who wish to visit
the Battle Ground, at Bemis^s Heights.
Although the great crowd of travellers on this road
will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they
will find few objects of any interest, it may be proper to in«
troduce,inthis place, an account of the expedition of Gen.
Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, often known
by the name of the battle of Saratoga, as we are within a
few miles of the field.
Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and
quiet of the Hudson, which there spreads out over a broad
surface, and hardly shows any appearance of a current.
It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler retreated at the
approach of Gen. Bui^oyne, after removing all the stores,
driving away the cattle, and throwing all possible obsta-
cles in his way : afterward retreating to the island at the
mouth of the Mohawk ; and through this place, Gen.
Gates, who soon after succeeded him in the command,
marched up from Half Moon to take position on Bemis's
Heights.
The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the im-
portance of the tract of country which lies along the
route we have just entered upon. From Canada to the
head of Lake Champlain there is an uninterrupted water
communication, by which troops and every thing neces-
sary to an army may be transported with the utmost fa-
cility. A short land carriage reaches Lake George.
Wood Creek, at the south end of Champlain, is navigable
in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant from
Fort Edward, on Hudson River, whence the navigation is
open to New-York. Here have consequently been
many of the most important military operations which
have ever been carried on in the United States. The
first battle within this region, of which history gives any
account, was fought between the French and the Five
Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of Canada,
when the latter first learnt the terrible effect of gunpow-
der, and began to flee from the approach of civilization.
1S4
THE NORTHERN
In the numerous expeditions which at subsequent periods
were undertaken by the British against Canada, this route
was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the re-
treat. The important events of the war of 1755, were
almost confined to this region ) and the revolutioui and
the last war with England, produced scenes which will be
touched upon in their places.
The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the
Revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sa-
ratoga, or Demises Heights, toward which we are fast ap-
proaching.
" I could here,** says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy myself
with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, and that
of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, my coun^
try was, under God, indebted in a prime degree for her
independence,'and all its consequent blessings. I should
think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant of New-
England or New-York, little to be envied, whose patriot-
ism did not gain force upon the heights of Stillwater, or
the plains of Saratoga. These scenes 1 have examined :
the former with solemnity and awe, the latter with ardour
and admiration, and both with enthusiasm and rapture.
He I have remembered ; and here it was impossible not
to remember,^ that on this very spot a controversy was de>
cided, upon which hung the liberty and happiness of :i
nation destined one day to fill a continent ; and of its de-
scendants, who will probably hereafter outnumber the in-
habitants of Europe.^
BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION.
Gen. Burgoyne* was appointed Governor of Canada in
1777, to succeed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at Quebec
* General Burgoyne. — {From an English TVork.)--lt i>
curious, that a man of such celebrity as a writer, a senator,
and an officer, as the late Lieut. John Burgoyne, should bi>
found among the number of those of whose youthful days no
memorial has been preserved. Neither the time, place, nor
circumstances of his birth are known. Even his parec^age i>
doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not ap-
pear, to have been a natural son of that Lord Binp;ly wh(» <^i< '
anger
waisu(
bable.
Keniui
edby
fulair
TRAVELLER.
125
t period H
;his route
n the re-
55, were
ition, and
ch will be
lat of the
tie of Sa-
i fast ap-
brget that
sfy myseir
', and that
my coun«>
ree for her
I should
it of New-
)se patriot'
Uwater, or
examined :
vith ardour
id rapture,
possible not
rsy was de>
;>iness of a
id of its de-
iber the in-
f Canada in
d at Quebec
r, a senator,
le, should bfi
thful days no
>e, place, nor
s parentage is
I does not fi|'-
ip;ly who did'
in May* and reached Crown Point Jure 80ih. Gen. Phil-
lipi was tent to Ticonderoga with the British right wing ;
tt an adnmeed age in 1774. That he had the advantage of a
liberal education^ and early intercourse with polished socie^,
is sttfflciently' evident from his writings ; and it is probable
that he was early devoted to the profession of arms, for on the
10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colo-
nel, and in the August of the ensuinx year, he was appointed
Lieut. Col. Commandant of the 16tii Lignt Dragoons. His
after services at different periods, in Spain, Portugal, and
America, are all well known, especially the unfortunate ter-
mination of his military career at Saratoga, which, though it
tarnished not his honour, cast a shade over his brow ever af-
terward conspicuous to the ^ihysioniomical eye. He made,
on certain occasions, no ordinary ngure in Parliament He
moved hi the firist circles, and married Lady Charlotte Stan-
ley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby ; and yet we know not
who and what he originally was. He was the author of four
successful dramas :— tiie Maiu of tho Oaks, the Lord of the
Manor, Richard Coeur de Lion, and the comedy of the Heir-
ess ; and yet the curiosity of his biographer, even in this anee-
dote-deabng and memoir-sifting aee, cannot trace his origin,
or tiie scenes of his education. The tale of the Lord of the
Manor seems, in some degree, to have been disguised in the
modification of the character and circumstances by the inci-
dent of his own matrimonial connexion : for his was a clan-
destine and unauthorized marriage, at a time when he held
only a subaltem^s commission in the army ; and is said to have
excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to such a
degree, that he declared his resolution never to admit the of-
fenders into his presence, though in process of time, the
anger of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effected, and
was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It is pro-
bable, also, that the memorjr of his lady, who died in 1776. at
Kensington Palace, during ms absence m America, is embalm-
ed by the affectionate reerets of the General, in that beauti-
ful air in the first act of that opera :
« Encompassed in an angePs frame.
An u^ePs virtues lay :
Too soon did heaven assert the claim,
And call its own away.
Mr Anna's worth, my Anna's charms,
Must never more return !
What now shall fill these widowM amni !
Ah, me ! my Anna's urn !"
M .
126
THE NORTHERN
and the outposts anci the fort were successively abandon-
ed by the Americans. The news of the evacuation of
this place was a most disheartening piece of intelligence
to the country. It had been confidently hoped that an
effectual resistance would there be offered to a force which
threatened the liberty of America ; or at all events, that
a heroic stand would be made at that important post,
which had so long been regarded as an almost impregna-
ble fortress.
The real strength and importance of Ticonderoga,
proves, however, to have been fatally overrated. With an
oversight which seems truly astonishing at the present
day, the neighbouring mountain had been left entirely un*
occupied, although it rises at so short a distance as comr
pletely to command the fort. General Phillips was to6
skilful a soldier to overlook the advantages of the coun-
try ; and the rising sun of August 16th showed his cannon
on the si:ramit of Mount Defiance, ready to open their
fire on the fortress below. Gen. St. Clair saw that all
hope of maintaining his position was entirely lost, and
immediately commenced his retreat, pursued at no great
distance by General Burgoyne. The news of St. Clair's
retreat spread consternation throughout the country. A
powerful army, containing 6000 regular troops and a large
body of Canadian militia and Indians, had now passed
the boundary of the country ; and having got this import-
ant pass into their possession, found the way open before
them to Hudson River, and the force which^ had been col-
lected to oppose their progress, all scattered and flying
with precipitation.
The rear, under Col. Warner, was overtaken by Gen.
Frazer, and after an action forced to fly. Gen. Burgoyne
pursued by water, and sent Lieut. Col. HMl onward, who
met Col. Long at Battle Hill, and after suffering much in
an engagement of two hours, was reinforced by some In-
dians, who came up in time to save him, and to induce the
Americans to retreat. At Hubbardton, the latter suffered
severely, and lost their stores at Skeenesborough, where
Burgoyne stopped to make arrangements for future ope-
rations. During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the
channel of Wood Creek, removed every thing valuable from
the country, and took the f»torP5 from Fort Georjre to Fo''
v;-.'
TRAVELLER.
127
£dnrard ; sending for regular troops, and calling for the
militia of the neighbouring states, both which were sup-
plied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined him with a
body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-Eng-
land militia ; and he fell back to Saratoga and Stillwater.
Battle op Bennington.
While the^e preparations were making for a general
engagement, the battle of Bennington occurred, which
must now be introduced to preserve the order of time.
Being in want of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne had despatch-
ed Lt. Col. 8aum with his Hessians, to seize the public
stores at Bennington. He was supported by Lieut. Col.
Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Ge % Stark
with the New- Hampshire troops, joined by Col. \«arner,
attacked Col. Baum at the Wallomsack River, where they
were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) and in two hours,
forced their works, and completely defeated them. Col.
Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman, wounded
him mortally, and took him prisoner, and put his troops
to flight.
226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of
Bennington, or rather the battle of HoosaCf as it was
fought in that town. 700 soldiers were taken prisoners,
and 36 officers.
To return to the principal scene of action. Gen.
Gates now received the command of the American
troops, which had been greatly reinforced ; and marching
them from the east side of Hudson River, opposite Half
Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, took a position on
Bemis's Heights, the scene of the important action soon
to be described.
BEMIS'S HEIGHTS.
A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, about
a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching off to-
wards the north-west, offered great advantages for the
defence of the road.
-y ^5^.
12S
THE NORTHERN
..^t
Gen. Gates' Camp
was about half a mile from the road on the left, and his
quarters were in a house which is yet standing, although
very old. A bye«road leads to the place ; and the travel-
ler, if he is able, will find himself repaid by eiamining
the old entrenchments, and afterwards proceeding aloi^
the heights, which were occupied by the American troops.
By making a considerable circuit by a road in some places
rough, he may ride over the encampment and the scenes
of the two battles, and then come back to the river at
Smith's little tavern, 3 miles above this place, or cross
over to the Springs. The space between the river and
the brow of the bill was crossed by a deep entrenchment
defended with artillery, and almost impracticable.
The American Lines,
Three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a
breast work of logs, (the hills being almost entirely a
forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's
right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground is
level, and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered with
fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the centre,
had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right.
Near the house once occupied by Gen Gates, and close
by a rail fence, are seen some remains of the entrench-
ments which defended the American camp. The view
from many parts of this elevated ground is extensive and
delightful, embracing the fertile shores and uplands of the
Hudson, with many surrounding hills and distant moun-
tains.
It will be Mcollected, that the expedition under Sir
Henry Clinton, who proceeded up Hudson River to King-
ston, was intended to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne,
but failed to produce the effect.
A. ffug British Lines
stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a
straight line across the meadow to the Hudson River. The
TRAVELLER.
129
following account of their approach from Lake George ia
from Gen. Wilkinson's Memoirs.
" General Burgoyne crossed the Hudson River the 13th
and l4th of September, and advanced with great cireum-
spection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, where
he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 16th was
employed on this labour, and in reconuoitering ; on the
17th he advanced a mile or two, resumed his march on
the 18th, and Gen Arnold was detached by Gen. Gates,
with 1500 men, to harass him ; but after a light skirmish,
he returned without loss or effecting any thing more than
picking up a few stragglers ; and the enemy moved for-
ward, and encamped in two lines, about two miles from
Gen. Gates ; hii> left on the river, and his right extending
at right angles to it, across the low grounds about six
hundred yards, to a range of steep and lofty heights oc-
cupied by his elite, having a creek or gulley in his front,
made by a rivulet which issued from a great ravine, form-
ed by the hills, which ran in a direction nearly parallel to
the river, until within half a mile of the American camp."
The Northern or Champlain Canal, and the coach road,
cross the ground occupied by the American right, and
soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. About
half a mile south of the latter is the house of Major Buel,
who served as a guide to the troops, and now conducts
travellers to the field. He is old and poor, but strong
and active* .. .
*• ^ The Battle Ground
is on an elevated plain, about two miles above Gen.
Gates' camp, and the same distance west from Smith's ta-
vern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, but
it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to take
or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the battle
ground, the road is quite romantic, along the south side of
Cumminskill, with a steep bank on each side for part of
the distance. Here Bui^oyne marched up to extend his
right, and turn the American left. The open ground at
the end is the field of battle.
The most severe* fighting in the first battle, was at a
little knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences.
M2
/
130
TUB NORTHEllN
Battle or Sift. 19th.
In the morning, it was reported by Col. dolburn, who
was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to as-
cend the hill towards the American left. Gen. Gates sent
Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began about
noon. The action extended, and in three hours was ge-
neral, and continued without interruption till dark. The
American troops engaged amounted to 3000 ; the British
to 3500. The following account is from Gen. Wilkinson.
" This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of the
generals meditated an attack at the time, and but for
Lieut. Col. Culburn*s report, it would not have taken
place ; Burgoyne*s movement being merely to take ground i
on the heights in front of the great ravine, to give hij
several corps their proper places in line, to embrace our
front and cover his transport, stores, provisions, and bag-
gage, in the rear of his left ; and on our side, the de-
fences of our camp liieing not half completed, and rein-
forcements daily arriving, it was not Gen. Gates's policj
to court an action. The misconception of the adverse
chiefs put them on the defensive, and confintiQ them to
the ground they casually occupied at the beginning of the
action, and prevented a single manoeuvre, during one of
the longest, warmest, and most obstinate battles fought in
America. Gen. Gates believed that his antagonist in-
tended to attack him, and circumstances appeared to jus-
tify the like conclusion on the part of Burgoyne ; and as
the thickness and depth of the intervening wood conceal-
ed the position and movements of either army from its
adversary, sound caution obliged the respective command-
ers to guard every assailable point ; thus the flower of the
British army, the grenadiers and light infantry, one thou-
sand five hundred strong, were posted on an eminence to
cover its right, and stood by their arms, inactive specta-
tors of the conllict, until near sunset^; while Gen. Gates
was obliged to keep his right wing on post, to prevent the
enemy from forcing that flank, by the plain bordering on
the river. Had either of the generals been property ap-
prized of the dispositions of bis antagonist, a serious blow
might have been struck on our left, or the enemy's right ;
Vif^\
*j^ Ackland, who had been brougnt from
the field to this place, ^n the back of a captain Shrimpton
of his own corps, under a heavy fire, and was here depo-
sited, to save the lives of both. I dismounted, took him
by the hand, and expressed hopes that he was not badly
wounded; 'not badly,' replied this gallant officer and
accomplished gentleman, *but very inconveniently, I am
shot through both legs ; will you. Sir, have the goodness
to have me conveyed to your camp ?* I directed my ser-
vant to alight, and we lifted Acldand into his seat, and or-
dered him to be conducted to head quarters. 1 then
proceeded to the scene of renewed action, which embraced
Kurgoyne's right flank defence, and extending to his left,
crossed a hollow covered with tvood, about 40 rods to the
entrenchment of the light infantry. The roar of cannon and
small arms at this juncture was sublime, between the
enemy, behind their woi^s, and our troops entirely ex-
posed, or partially sheltered by trees, stumps, or hollows,
at various distances, not exceeding 180 yards* This right
flank defence of the enemy, occupied by the German
corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast-work of rails
piled horizontally between perpendicular pickets, driven
into the earth, en potence to the rest of his line, and ex-
tended about 250 yards across an open field, and was co-
vered on the right by a battery of two guns. The interval
from the left to the British light infantry was committed
to the defence of the provincialists, who occupied a couple
of log cabins. The Germans were encamped immed <8 tely
behind the rail breast- work, and the ground in front of it
declined in a very gentle slope for about 120 yards, when
it sunk abruptly ; our troops had formed a line under this
declivity, and covered breast high, were warmly engt^d
with the Germans. From this position, about sunset, I
perceived Brigadier General Learned advancing towards
the enemy with his brigade, in open column, I think with
Colonel M. Jackson*i^ regiment in front, as I saw Lieu-
tenant Colonel Brooks, who commanded it, near the Ge-
neral when I rode op te him. On saluting this brave old
136
THE NORTHERN
b
soldier, he inquired, 'where can I pul in with most ad?aD-
tage?' I had particularly examined the ground between
the left of the (vermans and the light infentry, occupied
by the provincialists, from whence I had observed a slack
fire ; I therefore recommended to General Learned to in-
cline to his right, and attack at that point ; he did so
with great gallantry ; the provincialists abandoned their
position and fled ; the German flank was by this means
uncovered ; they were assaulted vigorously, overturned in
five minutes, and retreated in disorder, leaving their gal-
lant commander, Lieutenant-Colonel Breyman, dead on
the field. By dislodging this corps, the whole British en-
campment was laid open to us ; but the extreme darkness
of the night, the fatigue of the men, and the disorder in-
cident to undisciplined troops after so desultory an action,
put it out of our power to improve the advantage ; and in
the course of the night General Bui^oyne broke up his
camp, and retired to his original position, which he had
fortified, behind the great ravine."
The British lost in killed, wounded, and prisoners,
about 600 ; the Americans 319. The German officers said
they had never before met so vigorous and terrible a fire.
Several American officers who walked over the field after
midnight, found no enemy to interrupt them.
General Frazer's Grave
is on the hill a little west of Smith's. At his own request,
he was buried in the great redoubt, the remains of which
are plainly visible.
Oct. 8tb, frequent attacks were made on Gen. Balcarras'
corps, and the British expected a general action.
♦ If
General Burgotnb's Retreat
commenced that night towards Lake George ; but he was
pursued and intercepted so promptly, that he was obliged
to stop and take a position at Schuylersville, near whicli
he surrendered ten days after the battle. The place will
be particularly noticed on the " Excursion to Saratoga
Lake.'*
After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two
♦"B
misfortu
heard tl
pected
us. I s^
told meJ
concern]
met 8ev4
hands.
out Wa
filled m^
heard re
(le^reesj
o'clock
General!
The tab!
a bed
tremblii
'"creast
"iw^."'
TRAVELLER.
137
ft..
i
mos^ important battles, the trareller will be greatly in-
terested in learning that Smith's inn, to which he has be-
fore been directed, was at that period the
Quarters of Gen. Burgotke.
The house now stands by the road side, but the place
where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and about
200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be seen,
in a field near an apple tree, a little north of the road that
crosses the canal. Wiliard's Mountain is an eminence
a few miles off, on the opposite side of the river. During
the last battle, the Americans had a few cannon on the
rising ground above the eastern shore, a quarter of a mile
above Smith's, and thence proceeded the shot of which
the Baroness Reidesel speaks in the succeeding note.
Several ladies of distinction were its inmates at the time
when the British troops were here, being the wives of
some of his principal officers. Among these were the
Baroness Reidesel,'" with her children, wife of General
Extract of a letter from the Baroness^ afterwards pub-
lished in Germany.
♦ " But severe trials awaited us, and on the 7th of Oct. our
misfortunes began. I was at breakfast with my husbaud, and
heard that something was intended. On the same day I ex-
pected Generals Burgoyne, Phillips and Frazer to dine with
us. I saw a great movement among the troops ; my husband
told me, it was merely a reconnoissance, which gave me no
concern as it often happened. I walked out of the house and
met several Indians in their war dresses, with guns in their
hands. When I asked them where they were going, they cried
out War ! War ! (meaning they were going to battle. ) This
filled me with apprehension, and I scarcely got home before I
heard reports oi cannon and musketry, which ^rew louder by
degrees, till at last the noise became excessive. About 4
o'clock in the afternoon instead of the guests whom I expected,
General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally wounded.
The table which was already set, was instantly removed, and
a bed placed in its stead for the wounded General. I sat
trembling in a comer; the noise grew louder and the alarm
increased ; the thought that my husband might perhaps be.
N
13£
THE NORTHERN
Reidesel, Lady Harriet Ackland, wife of Mtyor Ackland,
commander of the British Grenadiers. The former pub-
lished an account of what she saw during this trying and
brought in^ wounded in the same way, was terrible to me, and
distressed me exceedingly. General Frazer said to the sur-
geon, **tell me if my wound is mortal^ do not flatter me.''
The ball had passed through his body, and unhappily for the
Creneral, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which the
stomach was distended, and the ball, as the surgeon said, had
passed throught it. I heard him often exclfilm with a sigh,
<<0h fatal ambition ! Poor General Burgotne ! Oh
MT POOR WIFE !'* He was asked if he had any requent
to make, to which he replied, that "If General Burootnr
WOULD PERMIT IT, HE SHOULD LIKE TO BE BURIED AT SIX
o'clock in the evening on the top OF A MOUNTAIN, IN
A REDOUBT WHICH HAD BEEN BUILT THERE." 1 did nOt
know which way to turn, all the other rooms were full of sick.
Towards evening I saw my husband coming, then I forgot all
my sorrows and thanked God that he was spared to me. He
ate in great haste with me and his aid-de-camp behind the
house. We had been told that we had the advantage of the
enemy, but the sorrowful faces I beheld told a different tale,
and before my husband went away he took me one side, and
said every thing was going very bad, that I must keep ray sell
in readiness to leave the place, but not to mention it to any
one. I made the pretence that I would move the next morninji;
into my new house, and had every thing packed up ready.
*< Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our house ; jit
this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the camp.
All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her husband w!i«i
mortally wounded and taken prisoner ; on hearing this m1i*'
became very miserable, we comforted her by telling her, that
the wound was only slight, and at the same time advised hot-
to go over to her husband, to do which she would certainly
obtain permission, and then she conld attend him herself ; sho
was a charming woman and very fond of him. I spent much
of the night in comforting her, and then went again to my
children whom i had put to bed. I could not go to sleej*, as I
had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen in
my room, and I was sadly afraid my children would awake nTuI
by their crying disturb the dying man in his last moments, wh'>
often addressed me and apologized ^^for the trouble lie f^avr
»w«.'* About 3 o'clock in the morning I w^as told lie coiiJd r^i
corpse
to the
funera
being
lery.
direct
injf, a
think
"G
it hu(j
fired
actior
the B|
with
TRAVELLER.
i3d
ckland,
ler pub-
ring and
me, and
the sur-
tter me."
ly for the
nrhich the
said, had
ith a sigh,
rNE ! Oh
y request
URGOTNR
BD AT SIX
ffTAIN, IN
1 did not
all of sick.
[ forgot all
me. He
behind the
tage of the
ferent tale,
le side, md
:eep my sell
)n it to any
jxt morninn;
p ready.
r house ; in
i the camp.
lusband wiii
Rg this slit'
ng her, tliat
advised hor
Id certainly
lierself; sh''
spent much
igain to my
,o sine j>, as I
;entlemen in
1 awake and
Dments, wlv>
ble he f:;avr
hr roiild r"'
dangerous contest, after her return to Europe. The
houne was converted into an hospital during the second
battle, and Gen. Frazer died on the 8th of October in what
is now the bar room. His grave is on the hill.
hold out much loneer ; I had desired to be informed of the
near approach of this sad crisis, and I then wrapped up my
children in their clothes, and went with them into the room
below. About 8 o'clock in the morning he died. After he
was laid out and his cwpse wrapped up in a sheet, we came
again into the room, and nad this sorrowful sight before us the
v^ole day, and to add to this melancholy sceiie, almost every
moment some officer of my acquaintance was brought in
wounded. The cannonade commenced again ; a retreat was
spoken of. but not the smallest motion was made towards it.
About 4 o'clock in the afternoon I saw the house which had
just been built for me in flames, and the enemy was now not far
off. We knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse the
last request of General Frazer, though by his acceding to it^
an unnecessary delay was occasioned, by which the inconve-
nience of the army was much increased. At 6 o'clock the
corpse was brought out, and we saw all the Generals attend it
to tne mountain ; the chaplain, Mr. Brundell, performed the
funeral service, rendered unusually solemn and awful, from its
being accompanied by constant peals from the enemy's artil-
h'ry. Many cannon balls flew close by me, but I had my eyes
directed towards the mountain, where my husband was stand-
ing, amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course, I could not
thmk of my own danger.
" General Gates afterwa.ds said, that if he had known
it hud been a funeral he would not have permitted it to be
iired on.
♦ * Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp after the
action, to take care of her husband before the surrender, and
the Baroness Reidesel afterwards. They were both received
with the greatest kindness and delicacy."
14U
THE NOHTH£UN
BALL3T0N SPRINGS.
This village is situated in a little valley, surrounded by
hills, with much the aspect of having once been the bed
of a small lake. The high ground enclosing it, gives an
air of seclusion to the place, at the same time that it fur-
nishes a variety of pleasant scenery. The Kayderos-
seros brook flows through the valley, in some places over-
hung by the groves of forest trees that cover the hills.
The San^ Souci Hotel is the principal house in the place,
and is at least equal in plan and in arrangement to any
similar establishment in the country. Aldridge*s is a
highly respectable house, in a very pleasant situation.
Mrs. Mc Masters* ; the Village Hotel, &c. are in the
neighbourhood.
SANS souci
is a building of great size, occupying the corner where
the village*- street meets the road to Saratoga. It has a
fine piazza opening upon the former, and presents a front
of 156 feet long with a wing extending back from each
end 150 feet, all of them three stories high, and contain-
ing in all lodging for nearly 150 persons. The dining
room can easily accommodate that number, and the public
parlour is large, airy and pleasant, extending to the ladies'
private parlour. There is a beautiful meadow in the rear
of the house which is to be made free of some encum-
brances, and to be planted with trees, laid out in walks,
&c. for the convenience of visiters.
Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the scene
of gayety which this house presents in the visiting season.
When crowded with people. Sans Souci is usually the
scene of several balls in the week, to say nothing of the
fishing parties, riding parties, uc. &c. which fill up the
day. The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood is suf-
ficient to attract many of those who resort to this place
of health and pleasure ; and walking and riding will be
found much more agreeable here than at Saratoga. Some
of the particular routes and objects will be designated
hereafter.
ided by
the bed
gives an
U it fiir-
Biyderos-
;es over-
hills,
he place,
it to any
;e*s is a
lituation.
e ill the
ler where
It has a
its a front
irom each
'\ contain-
^he dining
the public
the ladies'
in the rear
ne encum-
t in walks,
1 the scene
ng season,
sually the
ling of the
fill up the
iOod is suf-
I this place
ing will be
)ga. Some
designated
THE
•"ihisv",'';:
of a nrnkU '.v^iu;,
£».'she£ a variety
•A?rOii {ir^jKjk fiowe ■■ ,
hf'i},^ by the ja;rov'"
Tb« Sotns* Souci
.i^hJy reii)*;ci»v'>4'..
■>i*\«v Ivic lyf aster'
■' - . •■•jcc be«n J^:- '--.,
'I'.nnfi^ it, gi -'• «^
*a.isie time thai i: 'tjj-,
. . Thfl Kayd^yt^^''
. !i >-'roe pluct'S ©♦»*-:;■•
.over the hiliSv
n aRJt ifj arran*eraen?. tu 9^^
■c <'ou«tr). Aldrulge*« »;>■
-«#iwiy|, ^c. are in
t™* ". ig ?jf ;?reftt *»xc, oeoiipf ing the iiorner wU-
■ i4 t-o Saratoga. Kt h«-
* ■ ' V'- -■ '^eots ia ^-
from ■;
-'•■ ■" ■'■ ^ : i^eisottji. TN 4k
5^'^-- ' ■ ' ■■^- *:er, and the yAi--
P«- •• ■ . . . . • iin«i to the hi.-;
private pajjf .; ; m i« » IwNtt/tiful t»eadoiv In ihfc :
of the housft which is to be mode free of soirwi (Bf!-:'^ .
br«nce*, and to h planted mth trQus, laid dut ia Wii'k
&c. forvtli^', coBVfirM^rwfe of visiter.*.
^Sczrdeh my t;- .. g to ')i*feaunr,ry can eioet-d the ^
<>^Py^^ ■ H tfei;. i -es^ntsin tbf mitiag'^-.-
Wis^ii^ ^ Saa" Souci i^ ■ . -^
sceiK- ol .■ . , ;. "'-'■■„ to say "■■ -^ '^■•
'le variety of ^vMum"^ hi tb« neigUbourfeaeu'is «ik'
' oi" those w'h.i resort *
Utf
ore
ol
nd walkuig and, rjfa: ;..
;»nfl objects i?ilt be 1
(i{i • J.
.0 *#--
It- 1^«* ••'
Titjf ia ■'■■
Tom *■
the •
in iht; .
tin vi-iJk/.
.». I. ; '. ■
"''IT '-
©
;;*^'
X
'.*v,..5
^rX
TKAVELLEU.
Mr. Aldridoe's House
141
tvas the first respectable one ever opened in this place for
the accommodation of visiters. Its size being sufficient
only for a more limited number of persons, a visiter of
quiet habits or in ill health| will here find himself retired
from the noise and bustle which enter so largely into the
amusements o{ the more gay and robust. The house has
ft pleasant garden, with a long flight of steps leading to c
commanding elevation which overlooks the village below.
Mr. Corey's House
is situated at a little distance south of Aldridge's and has
a pleasant appearance, having a handsome green in front
and a piazza. It was however closed in 1825.
The La Fayette Spring,
which yields a fine and sparkling chalybeate water, was
discovered early in the summer of 1825. It is supposed by
many to be in fact identical with ** the Old Spring,''
which is soon to be spoken of, being distant from
it only about thirty feet. It is very cold and highly
charged with oxyde of iron and carbonic acid gas, which
have given it a high reputation.
The Old Spring,
which is in the middle of the street opposite Aldridge^
was the first discovered in all this part of the country.
It is said that the inhabitants were induced to trust to its
peculiar virtues by the example of the deer of the forest,
which had resorted to it in such numbers as to form beaten
paths from every direction to the spot. In 1792 there
was not a house within two or three miles of this spot.
The Old Spring has lost much of its original excellence,
which appears to be in a good degree transferred tu the
La Fayette.
The SaUne, or United States Spring
is near the bathing house connected with the Sans Souci.
It was discovered (our or five years since, and contains a
N2 ■
14
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
/y
/
4^
y 4^
y^
1.0
I.I
|50 ^^~ W^B
Ki §M 12.2
Itt 136 Mil
iM 12.0
Ui
lit
m
Ml
|l.25 |U ,,.6
<
6"
>
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WIST MAIN STRUT
WItSTER.N.Y. M5<^0
(716)S72-4S03
/^>
^\^>^
v* «?
^<;>
Vu
<\
144
XHE NORTHERN
chalybeate, as it is so only in a slight degree. There ia
no reason why the establishments at Saratoga Springs and
at Ballston Spa should regard each other with an un-
friendly feeling. The accommodations of both are too
good to need praise from me, and the bounty of the
Creator has poured forth these fountains of health, in
the great valley (for I regard the springs of Ballston Spa
and Saratoga as parts of one great system) with a pro-
fuse benevolence, unknown in any other country. Nothing
can exceed the variety, copiousness, and excellence of the
springs at Saratoga — but those of Ballston Spa are in no
respect except that of number and variety inferior to them,
and I trust the day is not dbtant, when a truly liberal
feeling, will in both villages, lead to mutual commenda-
tion) and an amicable rivalry, in efforts to please and to
accommodate their guests ; and the salutary effect wiQ
then, I am persuaded, soon be visible, in the increased
number of visiters, from every part of this great conti^
nent ; a number more than sufficient to fill both villages,
and fully to reward the spirited and liberal proprietors of
their respective public establishments.
With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places
I remain
Your Obt. Servt.
B. SILLIMAN.
Lovo^s Manufactory is four stories high, about 170 feet
long, and 40 feet wide, with a large room in each of the
three upper stories about 115 feet long. It is not used.
There is a Reading Room and Circidating Library kept
at the store of Mr. Gomstock, and a book is also kept, in
which the names of visiters arriving at the principal
houses are daily entered, for the information of others.
The Lover^s Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, which
overhangs the Kayderosseros, and overlooks a romantic
and secluded little valley, at the distance of about half a
mile from the springs. The road leads up the hill beyond
Aldridge*8, and through a dark pine grove. A half trod-
den path turns off at the right and conducts to the preci-
pice, which is a pleasant retreat in the heat of the day,
affording a fine shade and frequently a pleasant breeze, as
TRAVELLER.
145
well as the view of a wild scene below, to which a steep
descent conducts on the left hand.
■A - K
Ballston Lake
is a pretty little sheet of water about 4 miles distant ; but
as Saratoga Lake is much larger, more accessible and
more beautiful, and is supplied with accommodations for
fishing parties, it is more worthy of attention, and to the
description of it we refer the stranger. The distance
is 4^ miles, and 5^ from Saratoga Springs, It is only six
miles from Ballston Spa to the south end, where is the
finest view of it, on the way to the battle ground. The
road is rather stony and rough, but perfectly safe, and has
some pleasant spots, and several extensive views. The
Green Mountains in Vermont present a very noble appear-
ance, and several ridges of hills between, afterwards suc-
ceeded by the swelling and fertile shores of the Hudson,
form a various and delightful landscape.
Jlfr. Stitnpson*8 Farmin GaUowayf is 11 miles west from
Ballston ^rings.
He is an excellent farmer and his house a very good
inn. Take the road of the sand hill by Aldridge^s, passing
near the Lover's Leap, and following the Johnstown road.
His house is on a high ridge of land ; the farm contains
800 acres, 360 of which are cultivated, principally for
grain and grass. He raises 40 or 50 bushels of wheat to
an acre by late ploughing, about 3 inches. He soaks his
seed wheat in brine and rolls it in lime, to preserve it
from insects. Other seeds he rolls in plaster. He has
raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. His corn is
planted two feet apart one way, and two and a half the
other.
His fences are of stone and wood— -a low stone wall
with timber in it, to secure the parts above ground. A
fence of two rails is thus made above ; the rails being of
plank, about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, he
has on his farm what would measure 15 miles.
The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and
the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this part
of the country, that it is the resort of many visiters from
different quarters, who frequently spend days or weeks
140
THE NORTHERN
there. The charges are more moderate than at the
Springs.
The view is commanding and the air fine. From an
eminence west of the house, no less than 13 counties may
he discovered. The church is half a mile distant, and
the road to Ballston pretty good.
Remarks on the Routes.
At the Springs many a traveller has to arrange his fu-
ture journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and as Ball>
ston and Saratoga are pre-eminently places of leisure,
itome general hints concerning the different routes will
not be misplaced.
NORTH. The roads to Lake George, Lake Champlain,
Montreal, &c. belonging more properly to Saratoga, will
be given under that head.
EAST. The traveller is referred to the same place and
Albany also for the roads leading into New England.
SOUTH. Two or three steam boats leave Albany for
New- York every day, and as many arrive from that city.
Several others will also ply every week between New-
York and Troy. They touch at numerous points on
the river, so that passengers can land where they please.
The newspapers will furnish all necessary information
concerning their periods of departure and return ; and
coaches from the Springs so regulate their time as to ac-
commodate the traveller. The lai^er boats are generally
preferred, on account of the fine air and prospect enjoyed
from their upper decks ; but they are sometimes more
crowded than the small ones, and when the water in the
river is low, some of them can come up no higher than
the Overslaugh, 4 miles below Albany, to which place
passengers are taken down in the little steam boat Fire^
Fly, &c. The safety barges are once more recommended,
for their superior safety and convenience.
There are three roads to Albany : by Waterford, by
Schenectady, and by Cliffton Park, in coaches and canal
boats.
The last will be the pleasantest, if well attended
to. From Waterford you may take either side of the
river. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the
remarkable " nine locks*' on the Erie Canal, the junctioB
TRA^TILLER.
147
of the two Canals, and route of the former quite to Al-
bany. On the east side the road passes over a bridfl;e to
Lansinburgh, through Troy, and rc-crosses by a good and
safe ferry.
For notices of these places and objects, see pages 51,
and 55, 56.
The aeecnd road, which goes throui^h Schenectady, is
rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an opportunity
of travelling 27 miles on the Erie Canal, along the course
of the Mohawk, and a sight of the various objects men-
tioned in page 119, &c. A considerable part of two days
will be necessary on this route from Ballston to Albany,
bat a single one will be sufficient if he takes the stage
coaches to Clifflon Park, on the Erie Canal, and most
of these objects will be seen.
WEST. The grand western route, through Utica, and
leading to Niagara and Lake Erie, has been already,
traced out with sufficient particularity for the use of most
travellers ; and to that those readers are referred, who
intend to pursue that course after leaving the Springs.
The nearest point on this route is Schenectady, whence
the traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the
stage road or in the canal boats. See page 58.
The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, and
quite uninteresting;
V SARATOGA SPRINGS
are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a public coach
generally passes between these two places every day ;
beside a number of other carriages on their way from
Albany, &c. What is called the regular price for these
7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The old road is level and
sandy, and if the weather be dry the traveller will pro-
bably be incommoded with dust, unless he rides in the
morning or evening when the ground is moist with
the dew. The new road passes over h^her ground,
and is pleasauter and harder, although somewhat
longer. You may pass out by the court house, east, or
turn to the right just below Sans Souci. You enjoy some
fine views of the distant hills and mountains ; and the.
148
THE NORTHERN
soil and crops are generally much better than on the old
road.
The village is quite concealed until jou are within a
short distance, and then the clusters of frail board build-
ings which spring up among the stumps of trees lately
felled in the skirts of the pine forest, show what an un-
natural surplus of population the place contains during the
visiting season, which is principally in July and August. It
may not be unseasonable to mention here the principal
houves in the order in which they were supposed to stand
on the list of gentility in 1825 : the Congress Hall $10 per
week, United States Hotel, do. the Pavilion do. and Union
Hall $8.
On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into
the village, the street lies in full view, with all the princi-
pal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories
high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground to
the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 similar
columns; over which are seen the brick walls of the
United States Hotel ; and still beyond, and on the other
tide, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the village
is represented in the accompanying print, which was taken
on the spot the last season.
On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring,
the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short
distance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of
people.
Congress Hall
has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the most
fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its fine and
imposing appearance, its contiguity to the Spring, the
number and size of its apartments, and the style in which
it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long on the street,
with two wings of 60 feet running back, and contains
lodging for IflO. The first floor in front is divided in the
following manner : a dining room in the middle, capable-
of containing tables for all the house can accommodate ;
next the dancing hall, about 80 feet long, and south the
ladies* private parlour. The price of board is $10 per
week. s V.
on the old
re within a
t)oard build-
trees lately
rhat an un-
s during the
August. It
le principal
led to stand
jail $10 per
K and Union
seends into
II the princi-
bree stories
le ground to
of 10 similar
vails of the
m the other
nr the village
:h was taken
;ress Spring,
1 at a short
1 a throng of
ffc«r
hi''^-
W
)ng the most
f its fine and
Spring, the
yie in which
»n the street,
and contains
ivided in the
idle, capable
commodate ;
id south the
I is $10 per
. «. .<:.
^«ff'
yi'.r
?<
^
Till' '^'^'^■•'■"•B'oxr
i»;d cropn art
„'f:s<:
The villo^e ix
short (Iwtancr, ;♦.'
ing? wliich ^piijii.
feliftti in the nkcf ; ..
riaturai sur^)lus of popoii
visiting seasoii, which h j
nifty not he. unsea^onab;
hou.»"e»< iv, the order in w ■
on tH« It3l ol gcnriUr.y in
'vtHik, United States Uot'
liall $^,
On reaching tiu ..s
the villagej thp strp^ t J^<
pal houses. On the right ij Uungrea^ Hal! thsi^r
high with a ro>v of 17 coluynns, rising^ froni Ihc -i
the ^jafCi^ , nppo.siife is Union Hal! with a row of J *
rohim^«rt J •,t^';. vfhieh are sf«ftj the hrick nalU .
oiled Sifetiis Sfrst^t^l ; »n 1 • ueyond, antl on ikt
f^O^i ikh VQiii' 0i ifeii i :^ ihi^ vit'w till!
•: print, which "^mi^
■ :". the Co/!gr**;. '•ifca^Sff*, i^ H^i a thr**s*..
. i« 4iiiy 44r4 Amu'U^'.
r,< ro 'upposft:.
■nc. Favilion 'lo. »«« ■
Si!! whi'h dc'cemi:
5 vie^T, wiru all tK» , -
tr •■■ -- ■*■ •
'■■^d it\ Xh^: '-
f:.-' •■.•. ■ .
> *'hi\ :*i"-. s.
Ol5 V^
the p'x-
, .-
i\kiti- --■
/8A!tu; .
CoKGP.ess Hall
has gcnerJilly enjoyed the highest iavour amonjr '
f'ashionahie vistv«ri at Sat-aioga, on account of it .
imposing appearaiK r Ks canUgruity to the Sprr-
tiunaber and >ii7:e of ti« «partmenti, and the stylo t ;
it. i.s furnished ynfi k^A, it is 51^0 (eet !<9T»g v%i 'Jk* .
with two wing'; of GO tret r!i;u' -'.js; btiiffc, and tJi^i.
fealsjinii f''»>v >
«^ • danejiig hall, aboKt 8ft ibet longj and '.■ ^ '
Itti?. rivftte psirloiir. The price of board i^
kuk :
m^
at a '
*•:
t
>
P,
'X'?
y^.; f
•>•■>
;*."<•*,
«.;•''•
>.-. I
-•J ^
-* ;»V
X-
r-
Union
Spring,
was kn(
Jobnsoi
TRAVELLER.
149
The United States Hall '
is n fine building of brick, three stories higb, with a colo-
nade rising only to the second story. This house is ex*
cellently well kept, and is more substantially built than
any of the rest, which are of a light construction, fit only
for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public roomS|
in which particular Congress Hall so much excels. It is
also raised so high from the street as not to be convenient
of access, although many prefer it on that very account.
The Pavilion.
This is a very good house for one of its size, and will
be found free from much of flib bustle of the larger ones^
while the resort of company is n<^ less respectable and gen*
teel. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock
water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps
from it in the rear. There is a fine bathing house connect-
ed with it, and a shady little wood not far beyond by the
road side, on the way to the Round Rock Spring.
Tn >N r LL ., ...[-^ . . ."• ..-,
is the resort of those who wi^h to have the most conve*
nient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to
participate more moderately in the amusements of the
place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gaiety and mirth,
produced by the continued round of balls and dances in
the other principal houses.
The Congress Springt
which, as was before remarked, is the great source from
which this place derives its celebrity and its show of wealth
and importance, was discovered by Mr. Putnam. He
built the first house near it for the accommodation of in-
valids, which was subsequently enlarged to the present
Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Round Rock
Spring, of which more particular notice will soon be taken,
was known before, having been discovered to Sir WUIiaoi
Johnson by an Indian, while the country was yet a wil*^
150
THE NORTH£RN
dernesfl. The Congress Spring was long concealed by the
neighbouring broolc which formerly passed over it ; but its
Taluable qualities being discovered, it has attracted uni-
versal attention, and the benefits of its waters are annually
dispensed to thousands.
Mr. Silliman gives the following analysis : half a gal-
Ion contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and magnesia,
with a slight trace of iron.
The Flat Rock Spring
is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of the
Pavilion* In composition and qualities it bears a resem-
blance to the La Fayette Spring at BaUetonf but is far infe-
rior* It i9 a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind
in the place. It is situated on the margin of the little
valley in which all the springs are found, and the Pavilion
will prove a pleasant house to invalids and others who wish
to drink of it frequently.
The Round Rock Spring,
This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural cu-
riosity: the water, although for a time much celebrated,
and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga could
boast, having gone into disrepute, since the discovery of
the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble chalybeate
with little taste and little effect. The water rises in a
small lime-stone rock of a conical form, with a circular
hole in the middle, about five inches in diameter. The
rock is about five feet through at the base, and has evi-
dently been produced by the layers of lime deposited by
the water. Many of the rocks in the neighbourhood con-
tain a laige quantity of limci where the carbonic acid of
the water probably obtains the supply which it afterwards
deposites here. The gradual accretion which is thus con-
stantly going on is very apparent even to a hasty observer.
That part of the rock which is most exposed to the drip-
ping of water taken out in cups through the hole in the
top, is always smooth and even, while other parts are
rough and broken. Fractures made by visiters ate some-
timei> found half obliterated by a recent coat of calcareous
TRAVELLER.
151
matter formed in this manner. A borizontaJ rock, appa-
rently of similar formation, extends for a considerable
distance under the surface of the ground ; and indeed it
might be supposed to reach to some of the springs which
rise in difleront places along the valley above.
It is said that the Round Rock was discovered to Sir
William Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was
unknown to white men. The water, according to com-
mon report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for
many years found its way below, through a crevice pro-
duced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the
rock.
SARATOGA LAKE.
An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of
the most agreeable that can be made in any direction. It
is 5} miles distant, in a south-easterly direction, and is
frequently visited by parties from Ballston, as well as Sa-
ratoga Springs, as a good house has been lately erected on
the shore, and furnished with every accommodation, by
Mr. Riley. Sailing and fishing on the lake form the
amusements of the excursion*
The first part of the way is by the eastern road to
Ballston Spa ; and after turning to the left and riding to
within half a mile of the lake, a fine view opens from the
top of a hill. The eye embraces a part of this fine sheet
of water, with its sloping and verdant shores, generally
divided by square fields ; with a distant view of the Green
Mountains.
At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected a
stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and
capable of containing thirty people. The lake is there
about seven feet deep, and the spot is excellent for fishing.
Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken off in boats, and
in hot weather an awning is spread to shade them from
the sun.
On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky
and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected
with the shore only by ,a narrow neck. The deepest
water is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove,
where it is 150 or 170 feet to the bottom. The road run'-
132
THE NORTHERN
ning north from Riley's is pleasant, but reaches only half
a mile.
The lake extends 7 miles in length, and is 2 in breadth.
The shores are bold and varied, gently descending with
a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crags
from the water's edge ; sometimes softened and beautified
by the hand of cultiva jon, and sometimes abandoned to
all their native wildness.
If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter may
expect good sport in fishing ; and if not, he may calculate
oo a dinner table well supplied by other and more fortu-
nate adventurers. There are also many kinds of wild fowl,
birds, &c. in the neighbourhood, so that a sportsman may
find great amusement here.
There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 miles
from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr. Green, near the ferry,
"Yvhere also visiters are accommodated.
conjee
Ballst(
afterw
superic
season
and mc
with vj
than it
heretof
either c
cable, ii
true of
'" The Battle Ground,
where General Buigoyne fought Gen. Gates and the Ame-
ricans in the autumn of 1777, lies at the distance of 10 or
12 miles, towards the east, and is described particularly at
page 124 and onward : see page 154 for
The Field of Surrender, and Gen, Burgoyne^s last Campi
al Schui^rsviUe,
Trout Fishing.
Two miles eastward from the Springs, is a Trout Pond,
to which sportsmen frequently resort. Mr. Barhytet how-
ever, who keeps the house, never permits the fish to be
eaten any where else.
The remarks which have been made on the gaiety of
the two great watering places, are intended to app!y only
when they are the fashionable reports of those throngs of
visiters which every season appear at one or both of them.
The changes in fashion which lead all the world some-
times to prefer one and sometimes the other, and some-
times to divide their visits equally between them both, are
of so unaccountable a nature, that it is impossible for any
one to divine them, or with any confidence to hazard a
Tbed(
place a fc
which h(
Gates, ai
BatUe of
should b(
actually t
so fine a i
gained by
The fi(
well as th
laces, and
1 sprinkled
ne of the
ce in this
the defeat
upon ; but
pedition as
it are con-
eay of Lake
Montreal
ivill accom-
.s, 18 mUes.
id, where a
)ve the bet-
at 4 and 6
ad branches
road enters
river, which
its course,
ome church
1 backed by
3 the north,
minence, of
kewise seen
the lake, he
see the falls
•-».•>*•- '4»«»r-» —
• /^
;,^.;--t^» ",-' ■ '■ - -
:^'. J-
- K
in the
here n
dark b
(orma t
ner. 1
the wa
swollen
the larj
deep eh
bridge
serioas
channel
A dai
supplies
well as I
canal, w
Canal, b
water fo
Theg
beyond
highest p
in high fl
gentle di
running
Catei
the left,
north, in
been cuf
across thi
-4*i
". .-. i
/^ff
■' (
i«.
\l
This VII
below,
and intei
sufficient
onward:
and wishf
render^ ol
Baliston, f
the river.l
For a
liidex.
TRAVfiLLEK.
159
in the Hudson, which are in full view below. The river
here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet, over a rock of
dark blue lime-stoue, which has been worn into so many
forms as to break up the current in a very singular man-
ner. The projection of two large masses of rock, divides
the water into three sheets, (except when it is much
swollen by floods.) Of these, the northern one is much
the largest, and the other two unite and pass through a
deep channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped off the
bridge here, twice, a few years ago, yet escaped without
serioas injury. The most water passes through the other
channel.'"
A dam is thrown across just above the falls, which
supplies a Cotton Manufactory of Stone with water, as
well as several mills. On the north side of the river is a
canal, which was intended for a feeder to the Champlain
Canal, but has never been finished. It now furnishes
water for several mills, and an artificial cascade.
The great flat rock which supports the bridge, projects
beyond it, and affords space for a small garden on its
highest part, although the greater part of it is overflown
in high floods. Like the other rocky strata there, it has a
gentle dip towards the south, and a perpendicular fracture
running nearly north and south.
Caverns.— Passing through the garden, and turning to
the left, the mouths of two caverns are found facing the
north, in different places among the rocks. They have
been cut through by the rushing of water, in a direction
across the river's course, and corresponding with the natu*
* Sandt Hill, 3 miles eastward.
This village is pleasantly situated at the next fall in the river
below. The cascade is less remarkable as an object of curiosity
and interest, but is still worthy of attention if the stanger have
safficient time at his disposal. He will find a pleasant road
onward : and if he should be on his return from Lake Geoi^e,
and wishes to visit this part of the river, the Field of Sur-
render, or the Battle Ground, before reaching Saratoga or
Ballston, he will find it convenient to follow me course of
the river. The village has> a good inn.
For a description of the principal scenes of this route, see
liidex.
160
THE NORTHERN
ral fracture. The first is just large enough to permit the
passage of a man, and is cut with surprising regularity
for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is made the
scene of some of the most interesting chapters of Mr.
Cooper's late novel of the La$t of the Mohicant. Tbe
carern (perhaps altered sin«e 1757,) iras the place where
the wanderers secreted themselves, and were made cap.
tives. The cavern conducts to one of the river's channels,
where it opens on the side of a precipice, directly over
the water. The banks of the river are perpendicular
rocks as far as they can be seen ; and nearly opposite the
caverns, under the north bank, is an abundant spring of
fine, pure water, which pours from a hole in the rock, a
few feet from the surface of the river.
To the disciples of Dr. Kitchener, we will notice, that at
Glenn's Fall, their taste for excellent cheer may be grati-
fied to the greatest extent, at the mn of Messrs. Freehouse
and Thurston. The former having acquired his proficiency
in cooking from a French artist, their dishes are prepared
in the best possible manner, and in a variety that will not
fail to please — "'tis their vocation."
About half-way between this place and Sandy Hill, a
convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on
their way to Lake George.
Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ;
and a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Between
them passes the road to Lake Geoi^e. Towards the west,
a range of high hills encloses the view, and in the east,
the Vermont Mountains make a fine appearance.
Near the foot of French Mountain is a small tavern, on
the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen.
Dieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's
Falls and Fort Edward to Fort William Henry. The
valley through which we pass is narrow for some distance
beyond ; and after about half an hour's ride, (for there
are no mile stones,) a little circular pond is discovered on
the east side, and close by the road. It is generally
almost concealed with water plants.
This was near the place of action between Col. Wil-
liams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his
troops across the path, and advanced his wings some dis-
tance in front, the left wing occupying the rising groun'^
permit the
regularity
made the
iTB of Mr.
ant. The
ftce where
made cap.
I channel.<),
pectly over
pendicular
pposite the
t spring of
he rock, a
ice, that at
f be grati-
Freehouse
proficiency
e prepared
lat will not
^
idy Hill, a
ih war, on
Mountain ;
Between
Is the west,
n the east,
;e.
tavern, on
?lace Gen.
om Glenn's
inry. The
ne distance
(for there
[covered on
i generally
, Col. Wil-
itended bis
s some dis-
sing ground!
:m^
on ^h^
.•:rn«
'" fl
^:.-mi.
of
TKAVELLER.
lUI
on *h9 weit side of the road ooar tbia place. A small
1 ' *•-- — Srip.;/*^ « little be-
•^e ',»r*ri: ., c ■ r
r- ,>oiitte() out k>^
•* tra»e. This, ho^rcfar, la ciHufde'^
nthtris, it is saM that hfe »
■^^ attci vra;y Hbot It'om t(» iiuni' . i
• pond above moniiutiorl nrji
»,. «^enj wfrre thrown, and ft Ih^m-x ij|« mubc <»f
irf to thfs day. Jt is pirtfajilMy murh iimaller
•'^ In 182;), ibe <»ke!etoi; oK" * man n'\« ^n-^
.< ;uU uf H Leet, noar fhft pgtjd, %»«(!: a niurble
.t*©ar««»i(r tlj<^
TOf<»J
■Tl
a
W
wt 4 Am'
4i
.'flWt^TS^
' {{; to tii» L'i'aw oi y. iu^ii iiili, the prospect opeus^
lake aj)y)car«, f nclosad by mouotaiii*-, manj of
at tiiis JistanCe, m'c cf a t]f*;p blue. The evU ni
MotfMlJiui i?» uear »t hand on th^^ e^sl, cuvereu
■, the be; •• ' • ' ' . -, r
of be.aui>4.r»4 jr4i:^,stMtf4».
', ar< tljf. r*;m«i(jfi oil' *
■&i«ous ia Uie bi«tory <
ef the ibrnnii? waa
I'jMg »«$ti«;fi(*rs or'
:^fi.
' •viliagij yf OaldweW i\> ti.t p**fr '-H wikh the visUei'
• to take a viow
•-ig*-'
MSVMT ' ." ■ T^..
ft '
%
on the 1
cleared
yond the
to have I
rock nei
Col. Wil
doubtful
toreconi
The li
most of
Bloody i
than fori
up from ;
pipe, an
stamp, r
their seat
lurid pett
About :
view of
*■■ ,.•
Comin
and the
whichf a
French A
with thic
the lake,
white bu
degree or
in any ol
George,
Henry, i
the site I
when he
the actic
ThevI
will stof
which hj
waters.
TRAVELLER.
161
on the west side of the road near this place. A small
cleared spot may be noticed on the other side, a little be-
yond the pond, (in 1825, a hut stood upon it,) that is said
to have been the principal scene of action ; and a singular
rock near by is pointed out by tradition as the mark of
Col. Williams's grave. This, however, is considered very
doubtful ; by others, it is said that he ascended the rock
to reconnoitre, and was shot from its summit. {Page 166.)
The little pond above mentioned was the place where
most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of
Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller
than formerly. In 1825, the skeleton of a man was dug
up from a depth of 1^ feet, near the pond, with a marble
pipe, and some silver«eyed buttons bearing the royal
stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in
their season, with the Pond Lily, (Nymphefi Alba,) their
lurid petals shedding baleful influence upon the water.
About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a fine
view of
LAKE GEORGE.
Coming to the brow of a high hill, the prospect opens,
and the lake appears, enclosed by mountains, many of
which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of
French Mountain is near at hand on the east, covered
with thick trees to the summit ; while the smoothness of
the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat
white buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a
degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be found
in any other spot. Directly at the south end of Lake
George, are the remains of Forts George and William
Henry, famous in the history of the French war ; and on
the site of the former was General Johnson's camp,
when he was attacked by Dieskau. The particulars of
the action will be given hereafter,
Caldwell.
The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visiter
will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and from
which he will make his excursions across its beautiful
waters. The village stands at the south end of the lake,
P
102
THE NORTHERN
and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the neigh-*
bouring sheet of water and the mountains by which it is
almost enclosed. The inn to which strangers resort oc-
cupies a spot peculiarly fitted to gratify the eye of taste,
as it overlooks the lake for several miles, and the view is
not interrupted by any neighbouring obstacle. A more
delightful place can hardly be found in the United States,
for the temporary residence of one who takes delight in
scenery of this description, and loves to recur to deeds
long past, and to exploits great in themselves and im*
portant in their results, even to the present day.
Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth
4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad.
The greatest depth is 60 fathoms. The water is remark-
able for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at the
depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by
springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bot-
tom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There are deer
in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which leads to
Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids.
The lake never rises more than two feet.
The three best points of view are at Fort George, a
place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at
Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake.
The la^t view is taken southward, the other two north-
ivard.
' This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water, is bound-
ed by two ranges of mountains, which in some places
rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, and
in others descending with a graceful sweep from a great
height to a broad and level margin, furnish it with a
charming variety of scenery, which every change of
weather, as well as every change of position, presents in
new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti-
vation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely agree-
able ; and the undulating surface of the well tilled farm
is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native fo-
rest, and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where no ve-
getation can dwell.
The situation of the Hotel is delightful, surpassing that
of almost every other to be found in this part of the
country. The traveller may hereafter take pleasure in
TRAVELLER.
163
b neigh-*
ich it is
isort oc*
sf taste,
} view is
A more
1 States,
lelight in
to deeds
and im*
t breadth
le broad.
I remark-
Bn at the
pplied by
ir the bot-
>e are deer
i leads to
nd rapids.
1 George, a
another at
the lake.
wo north*
kisbound-
me places
rater, and
im a great
I it with a
[change of
tresents in
fe of cuUi-
lely agree-
lilled farm
native fo-
jre nove-
issing that
)art of the
)leasurc in
comparing the scene enjoyed from his window, with those
he may witness from the walls oi Quebec, Masonic
Hall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niagara. The house
is very large, having been increased within a year or two
by the addition of a long wing, three stories high, so that
it is now capable of furnishing lodgings for 100 persons,
and the apartments are so arranged that half of them
look out upon the lake. A green and handsome slope
descends about 20U yards to the very margin, where
there is no obi^truction but a few trees and scattering
buildings. There is the wharf, at which the steam boat
Mountaineer receives and landa her passengers, often add-
ing much variety to the place by an addition of company.
The discharge of the signal gun makes fine echoes among
the mountains in a clear night.
The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide,
and the range of mountains opposite, which are high and
uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated with the exception
of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being
covered with trees almost to the water.
On the right is seen the south end of the lake, which
is formed of low land for some distance back, succeeded
by French Mountain in the rear. On a little point, half
covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet above
the water, is the site of Fort William Henry ; and about
a mile towards the south-east from it, on a considerable
elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. For the history
of these once important little fortresses, see a little farther
on.
Excursions on the Lake, Fishino, &c.
I
Boats are kept at the wharf to convey strangers to any
part of the neighbouring shores and islands. Fine perch,
or black bass, (Perca Frantdiniay) are caught in abun-
dance almost every where; and trout, at the mouth of a
small stream near the south end. Fishing rods and tackle
may be obtained at the hotel ; and a variety of other fish
are to be found.
Diamond Island is ,a few miles down the lake, and
is famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are
found in a loose rock by dicing a little under the surface.
164
THE NORTHERN
They are found, however, in equal numbers in several of
the other islands ; and it is, after all, the easier way to
purchftse them, and not to permit the labour of searching
for them to interfere with the pleasure of the exrursion^
particularly as that labour is often ineffectual. A poor
family live on Diamond Island, subsisting partly on a small
•pot of tilled land, and partly on the produce of the crys-
tals they sell to visitrrs.
Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another
favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boai,s land
is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an old
hut standing which affords something of a shelter*
Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been
inhabited and cultivated. Beside these, there are many
other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and
those who are fond of such excursions, would be highly
delighted with devoting several days to visiting them.
The finest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles dis-
tant. These will be spoken of hereafter.
The steam boat usually goes three times a week to the
north end of the lake ; but is always ready to perform
that excursion, and will take a party of 20 or more for
$1 each.
West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence,
called Rattlesnakes^ Cohhle, or Prospect HiU. This, as
well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of bears
and deer, and much infested with rattle snakes. The view
from the top is very fine. It in the place from which
Hawk-eye, in the ** Last of the Mohicans,** leads his com-
panions into fort William Henry through the mist.
The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell
is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege
of fori William Henry, the ground which it now occupies
was crossed by the trenches and batteries with which
Montcalm finally succeeded in forcing the capitulation of
that little fortress.
The place where he landed with his army is the little
cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps north
of the hotel. He erected his battery near the shore, and
ran his first trench across the street into the fields in front
of the hotel. The remains may still be traced, as well as
the marks of a small mortar battery, near the bars of a
ilence
bank
also j
right,
Behin
Frenc
djginthe
ftntiquitiei
TRAVELLER.
165
iTeral of
"way to
sarching
Lcursion,
A poor
n a small
the cry8-
} another
oats land
is an old
er.
has heen
are many
ake; and
be highly
ing them,
miles dis-
eek to the
to perform
ir more for
ftnee leading to Pikers* house. Another line runs to the
bank of the lake, on this side of the brook, where was
also a battery ; and another borders the swamp to the
right, and another turns southward along the high ground.
Behind this, in a pine wood, are the graves of about lOCO
French soldiers, who died in the fort.
Battle of Lake George.
In 1755, the year after the commencement of the
French War, 3000 men were sent out from France to
Quebec, for the purpose of taking the Oswego Fort. This
was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onondago
River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The position
derived its consequence from circumstances which no
longer exist : the Indian trade from up the Lakes, the
facility of communication with the Five Nations through
this place, and the peculiar nature of the shores of Lake
Ontario, which would not permit canoe navigation on the
other side. There the two great branches of Indian
trade concentrated ; and the nation which held possession
of the point must necessarily sway a great influence over
the Indians themselves : an advantage frequently of still
greater importance to the country. Oswego Fort natu-
rally became an object to both the French and the English
at that time, and it formed a prominent figure in the history
of the war. The English being in possession of that little
fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its defence
might doubtless have been easily secured, had their ope-
rations been conducted with common prudence and energy.
Unfortunately they were conducted in a very different
manner ; and whoever would see a clear and able history
of the first English expeditions in that war, and of the
political party spirit which then ruled in this country and
rendered them worse than ineffectual, is referred to " A
Letter to a Lord^'' written soon after.
In 1755 Gen. Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,)
* This man, who is infirm, has leave from Mr. Caldwell to
dig in the ruins of the fort, and keeps a quantity of interesting
antiquities for sale.
P2
166
THE NORTHERN
marched to the south end of Lake George with a consi-
derable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. Hen-
drick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, intending
to take Fort Frederick, now Grown Point. Gen. Dieskau
was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, principally taken
from a body of French troops sent out to Quebec, 600 of
whom had fallen into the hands of Admiral Boscawen at
sea. Dieskau had first designed to besiege Fort Oswego.
At Fort Frederick or Crown Point, he remained some
time, and then determined to go and meet the English.
He therefore went up the South Bay, where learning the
situation of Fort Lyman, (now Fort Edward,) he wished
to attack it and cut off the retreat of Gen. Johnson. The
Indians and Canadians, however, were in dread of the
cannon with which it was supposed to be defended, and he
was obliged to march against Johnson.
Sunday, Sept. 7tb, at midnight, a scout brought John-
son intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 men
were sent out in the morning, under the command of Col.
Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, drawn
up in a semicircle, into which the English entered before
they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides first showed
them the position of their enemies. The English stood
their ground valiantly ; but Col. Williams and Hendrick
being both shot down, together with many others, they
were obliged to begin their retreat, which was conducted
by Col. Whiting with the greatest coolness and success.
The centre of the English army was posted on the hill
where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the French
were discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted
at the sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some
mistaken idea of the strength of their position, and gave
them time to recover from their panic. The ground on
both sides of the English camp was marshy and covered
with trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right
flank and the Canadians on the left to surround them.
Col. Pomeroy, however, soon put the former to flight nrith
a few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops
in front, and made them fire by platoons, wktLi veryi littie
effect. Gen. Johnson (happily for his own troops,) was
slightly wounded in the thigh, and had tu walk back to
his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He
VBAVELLER.
W
directed tbe defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre*s
artillery ; when the French turned upon the English right,
which consisted of Ruggles*8, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's
regiments, and extended from the road to where Fort
Wm. Henry was afterwards built* Here they fought an
hour, but the English and Indians chaining them, they
took to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau him-
self was found leaning against a stump wounded — a sol-
dier approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, to
take out ,his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and
supposing he was dranring a pistol, shot him through the
thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a
blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a
pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand.
Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that
was probably a sufficient reason for its being refused by a
superior officer, who looked upon his great talents with
jealousy, and, in spite of the advantage the country had
derived from his services, at a time when they were pe-
culiarly valuable, did not even mention the name of Gren.
Lyman in his account of the battle ! — Johnson ir/as made
a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few years in poverty
and disappointment, and died without receiving even the
notice of the British government.
The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed and
96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own loss at
1000 — the English called it much lejs. The principal
were a Miy. General, and M. de St. Pierre the command-
er of the Indians. The French lost their baggage during
the action, left two miles in their rear, it being attacked
by Captains Folsom and McGinnies with about 100 New-
York troops ; who then lay in wait for the retreating
French, and killed great numbers of them.
Gen. Johnson might have taken Crown Point; but he
delayed it so long, that the French advanced to Ticonde-
roga and there fortified themselves securely.
But the Battle of Lake Geoige is not the only nor the
most sanguinary scene of former times which the traveller
has to trace on this sadly interesting spot. The history
of the French war recites a melancholy tale of blood-shed
here, only two years afterwards, in 1757.
168
THE NORTHERN
The Capture and Massacre of Fort William Henry.
So different was the state of the country sixty years
ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in these
wild regions, that a sinall work of earth thrown up on
this site, and called Fort William Henry, was regarded as
a fortress of considerable strength and consequence. It
is indeed far overlooked by the neighl.>ouring high ground,
but probably the difficulty of dragging cannon over rucks
and bills, covered with forests, was then considered a suf-
ficient obstacle to its performance, and probably for this
reason Oswego Fort was built in a similar situation, and
left so till taken by the French.
In 1757, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander in
Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by sea
against Louisburgb ; and before his return to New- York
in August, the French from Ticonderoga under the Mar*
quis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort Wil*
liam Henry. On the 1st of August they set out again,
and landed at Frenchman's Point. On the evening of the
2d, they crossed to the west side of Lake George, within
two miles of the fort, and the next morning sent in their
summons. Cul. Monroe defended himself resolutely for
six days, hoping relief from Col. Webb and his 6000 men
at Fort Edward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten
of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and
marched out with the honours of war and an assurance
of being protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army.
He had gone but a little way, however, when the sa*
vages fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500, men,
women, and children.
Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The provin-
cial troops were kept under arms for one whole day after
the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and Sir
William Johnson was very desirous to march with them
to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their quar-
ters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him
to surrender.
TRAVELLER.
169
Attack on Fort Ticonderoga.
The south end of Lake George was the scene of a
splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the following
yenr, [1758,] when 1U,000 provincial troops, and 6 or
7000 regulars assembled at this place tu proceed against
Ticonderoga. * 1035 boats were drawn up to the shore
one clear delightful »ummer morning, and were speedily
filled with this powerful army, excepting only a small body
left with the baggage. Success was confidently expected,
and the appearance of the train was more like that of a
triumphant return from war. The boats were decorated
with gaudy streamers, and the oars moved to martial
music.
The traveller will follow their route in the steam boat,
for which see beyond
They landed at the north end of the lake on the follow-
ing morning, and were ordered to march on in four co-
lumns. The obstructions of the forest, however, soon
broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe with hu centre co-
lumn falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who were
on their retreat and bewildered, was attacked with a sud-
den war whoop and immediately killed. The provinciaU
were accustomed to the woods, and drove back their ene-
mies, killing about 300, and taking 148 prisoners, and all
returned to the landing. In the morning. Col. Bradstreet
took possession of the mill at the great falls on the river,
and the army were soon brought up to the French lines,
which were thrown up across the isthmus and not finish-
ed. This entrenchment is still to be seen in tolerable
preservation. It had two redoubts, and a deep abattis,
and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, though that
seems improbable. The attack was vigorous, and the de-
fence obstinate. The battle continued four hours, during
'^ Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a
young nobleman of amiable disposition, and the most prepos-
sessing manners, and was almost idolized by the army, as well
as admired and loved f)y the comitry.
170
THE NORTHERN
tvhich the English were repulsed three times. The High-
land regiment distinguished itself, and suffered severely.
The English loss, in all, tvas lOM, principally regulars ;
the French very trifling, although they are said not to
have imagined the defence possible. Their force is dif-
ferently stated from 1200 to 6000. Notwithstanding his
superiority of force, Abercrombie shamefully ordered a
retreat ; and thus terminated the operations of the year.
i"" /,
VOTAOB DOWN LaKE GeOROE.
Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. CaldwelPs house at
a quarter of a mile, the steam boat passes Te^ Island,
Diamond, Long, and other Islands, particularly the Two
Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and the sur-
face more uninterrupted, the course of the boat being di-
rectly towards a remarkable eminence, with a double
summit, called Tongue J\Iountain, That which partly shuts
it in from this direction on the right, is Shelving Rock ;
and Black Mountain shows its rounded summit beyond it,
a little to the right. This last is supposed to be about
2200 feet high, and is considered the highest mountain on
the lake.
Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of
Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great dis-
tance after leaving Caldwell. It is of a singularly round-
ed form, covered with trees, with the utmost regularity,
and protected from the washing of the waves by a range
of large stones along the shore, so well disposed as to
seem like a work of art.
" A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the western shore,
before reaching Tongue Mountain, which belongs to a
new township.
The Narrows.
The la^e is very much contracted where it passes be-
tween the mountains just mentioned, and their surface is
for several miles broken by innumerable islands. These
e High-
evcrely.
igulars ;
d not to
!e is dif-
ding his
rdered a
ihe year.
house at
? Island,
the Two
I the sur-
being di-
a double
rtly ^huts
\g Rock;
teyond it,
be about
untain on
e foot of
great dis-
Ty round-
egularity,
y a range
sed as to
ern shore,
)ngs to a
passes be'
surface is
s. These
Chester;
Jffpo/car
<^r
treof
elevat
Lone-
othen
graaf,
and mi
hemlo<
standii
Sometj
suppori
the nei
flowers
grove
and thi
you paa
to Tiew,
narrow
person i
way oul
with the
they wei
After
and the
>age, w\
Mountail
?reat disi
bu ". gei
many ph
habited
This
from the]
of Haguf
On Sj
merous
of the Si
by whicl
susceptil
^^^jf°;^iiiutt--j^-
TIIAVELLEU.
171
tre of various sixM) but generally very small, and of little
elevation. A few of tbem are named, as Green, Bass,
Lone-tree Islands. Some of them are covered with trees,
others with shruN, some show little lawns or spots of
grassy heaps of l*^arren rocks, or gentle sloping sbures ;
and most of them are ornamented with graceful pines,
hemlocks, and uther tall trees, collected in groupes, or
standing alone, and dispoi^ed with most charming variety.
Sometimes an island will be observed just large enough to
support a few fine trees, or perhaps a single one, while
the next may appear like a solid mass of bushes and wild
flowers 1 near at hand, perhaps, is a third, with a dark
grove of pines, and a decaying old trunk in front of it ;
and thus, through every interval between the islands as
you pass along, another and another labyrinth is opened
to view, among little isolated spots of ground, divided by
narrow channels, from which it seems impossible for a
person who should have entered them, ever to find his
way out. Some of the inlands look almost like ships
with their masts ; and man) have an air of lightness as if
they were sailing upon the lake.
After passing the Narrows, the lake widens again,
and the retrospect is, for several milea, through that pas-
sage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black
Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a
s;reat distance between them. The mountains in view
bu '. generally rounded summits ; but the sides are in
many places broken by precipitous ledges. They are in-
habited by wolves, deer, rattle snakes, &c.
Sabbath Day Point.
'."t
V
This is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake
from the western shore, and containing the little village
of Hague. That on the opposite shore is Putman.
On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his nu-
merous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morning
of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the name
by which it is now known : it is a charming spot and
susceptible of the greatest embellishment.
••>:.'." --;i.^ -^ »; ,
172
THE NORTHERN
RoGERS^s Rock AND Anthony's NosEv
These are two mountains at which the lake contracts
itself again to pass between them. They are seen for
several miles, and appear at firot to approach each other
much nearer than they actually do. The shores of the
lake still continue elevated, and all more distant objects
are excluded from the sight. The country appears almost
without inhabitants, but a few cultivated farms are dis<
tinguishable here and there. Anthony's Nuse presents a
precipice, on the eastern shore, as we enter the strait,
and the firing of a gun produces a fine echo. Rogers's
Rock or Rogers^s Slide is a still more formidable one,
on the other hand, a little further on. The last re-
trospect up the lake is still very fine, even from this point
—•Black Mountain being yet clearly to be seen.
Rogers^s Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, a parti-
zan officer who distinguished himself in the French war
by his boldness, activity, and success. He commanded
an expedition which left Crown Point, in the year 1756
against the Canadian frontiers, and cut off the Indian vil-
lage of St. Francis, afterwards returning with the severest
hardships, by the way of Connecticut River. Tradition
says, that he was at another time closely pursued by a party
of Indians, and forced to retreat to the verge of this moun-
tain. Finding no other way to escape, he descended half
down by the ravine which opens towards the south, and then
by a sudden turn came to the east side, where is a preci-
pice about 200 feet high, of smooth rock, and nearly per-
pendicular, down which he slipped upoi. his snow shoes
to the lake, escaping upon the ice. This «eems almost
incredible ; and other accounts have been given of it.
Some say, that the Indians supposed he bad fallen off tbe
verge and perished, and others, that he threw off his
pack that way to favour that belief. The water is deep
at the bottom, and fine trout are caught there with a long
line.
The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrow
pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both
ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but
hills have suvccedetl to mountains, and some of these arr
TRAVELLER.
173
tracts
n for
other
)f the
ibjects
ailraost
re dis-
ients a
strait,
\ogers''s
e one,
ast re-
is poiut
a parti-
ich war
manded
Kt 1756
lian vil-
sc
in
IS
h a long
narrow
at both
des, but
IresBflrr
at length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, although
at such a distance, at length makes its appearance again,
and continues in sight.
The lake at length diminishes to a rery narrow stream,
and the bottom becomes gradually covered with weeds.
Lord Howe's Landing is just behind an island of 3
acres, on the left hand at the entrance of the creek.
Here is the spot where the unfortunate expedition of
Abercrombie effected their landing, and on the island
they established their hospital, on their way to the at-
tack of Ticonderoga.
The steam boat passes on some distance beyond this
place, and lands her passengers on the other side, where,
at her regular voyages, carriages are found in waiting to
convey them to Ticonderoga, 3 miles, over a rough
road.
Those who intend to take asteam boat on Lake Ghamplain,
should be careful to inquire the hour when it passes, and
regulate their time accordingly. It is intended that Ti-
conderoga shall become one of the stopping places, which
will prove a great convenience, and a fine inn is also
erecting there.
Abcrcrombie*s army passed for some part of the way
along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, which
are the highest, he forded the creek above the second.
At the falls near the bridge which we pass, just above the
saw mills, was a stone block house ; and there was a re-
doubt on the north side of the stream near the bridge,
where, as in several other places, there was some fighting
to carry the French out-posts.
At the Upper Falls are several valuable saw mills and
forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque.
THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA.
This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are
distinctly seen from Lake Champlain, though from the
direction by which we approach it ; they are not dis-
covered until we approach near them. An elevated
piece of land, gei;itly sloping towards the south, and
ending abruptly over a bend of the lake, appears partially
<7overed with trees, and crowned near its extremity with
Q
174
THE NORTHERN
a cluster of broken walls and chimneys. There is a,
meadow on the eas^iiern side, running to the base of the
ridge, and across this is a foot path from the ferry to the
fort by the nearest way. A carriage road also leads from
the ferry to the ridge, and thence down to the same
place.
The Old French Lines,
where General Abercrombie was defeated in 175S, are
the only part of the fortification which \vas ever the sce.nc
of a battle. They commenced on the east side, at a bat»
tery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter of a
mile south of the ferry. The remains of the breast work
can yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig-zag;
first stretching oflf to the right, along the side of marshy
ground, to a cluster of bushes, where was a battery ; and
then to the left to the verge of a wood, where was another.
Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner,
across the ridge of land at its highest elevatioii, over to
the brow of a steep bank looking towards toe outlet of
Lake George. The ground is so high on the top of this
ridge, that it must have been a commanding position when
clear of trees. The woods which now so much interrupt
the sight, have grown since the evacuation of the fortress,
after the Revolutionary war. The trees are all young.
There is a fine spring of water near the western part
of the French lines, where a bloody engagement occur-
red between two hostile parties during the battle. Bodies
of men have been dug up hereabouts within a feiv years,
and shot were formerly very frequently found in old
timber.
Mount Hope is a hilt about a mile north from this
place. It was occupied by Gen. Bui^oyne*s British line,
which formed the right wing on his approach to Ticon*
deroga, on the 2nd of June, 1777 ; and on the following
morning, while they were approaching through the woods
unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their soldiers was
observed and fired upon from a salient angle of the lines.
This alarmed the British, who fired ; and the Americans
were so much excited that they returned three volleys,
without orders from their officers. Stransje as it may
seem not
retired v
they succ
by gainini
In proc
fortress, I
appears t(
times by t
of rocks,
troops, ai
also remai
lines of sr
ranged in i
to embarr
which assi
approach il
There is
which the
there, at th
entrenchmi
the edge of
was a row
the walled
in some pla
bas been pa
8 or 9 yardi
side in somi
The fortr
tract of gro
which were
very much {
cation betw
staircases, j
all so calcu
and the asc<
cannon and
remain will
much highei
tures of lof
protect the I
j)rincipal pai
The Bam
TRAVELLER.
175
seem not a man was killed on either side, and the enemy
retired without attempting any thing further there, for
they succeeded in capturing the fortress in a few days,
by gaining the top of Mount Defiance with their cannon.
In proceeding from the French lines south towards the
fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the ground
appears to have been in some places smoothed in former
times by the plough, and by the removal and cutting away
of rocks, to render it convenient for the evolutions of
troops, and the use of artillery. A close observer will
also remark that he passes the remains of several distinct
lines of small redoubts, placed at equal distances, and
ranged in the form of a quincunx. These were intended
to embarrass still further the approach to the fortress,
which assumes the air of a more important work as you
approach it.
There is the corner of a fence near the fortress, at
which the horses are usually left. Just before arriving
there, at the distance of about 120 yards, you pass an old
entrenchment; and about 150 yards further bring you to
the edge of the outer ditch or counterscarp, where there
was a row of palisadoes. Five steps more bring you to
the walled side of the ditch, which is still eight feet deep
in some places, and therefore impassable except where it
has been partly filled up. Its breadth is generally about
8 or 9 yards, and the wall of the fortress on the other
side in some places 20 or 25 feet high.
The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces a large
tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep ditches,
which were defended by cannon and musketry, and added
very much to the security of the place. The communi-
cation between these different parts was kept up by stone
staircases, placed in convenient positions of the angles,
all so calculated as to make the descent into the ditches,
and the ascent, circuitous and intricate ; and open to the
cannon and small arms. A glance at some of those which
remain will show the plan. The wails were originally
much higher than at present, being raised by superstruc-
tures of logs filled in with earth, to such a height as to
protect the barracks, &c. the remains of which are on the
})rincipal part of the fortress.
The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still re*
176
THE NORTHERN
main of all except thone on the eastern side ; their form is
plainly distinguishable. The parade, which they include,
appears to have been formerly carefully smoothed, and a
flat rock, which forms part of the surface, looks as if it had
been cut down by art. This area is about 52^ yards long,
and 8 in breadth. The barracks, &c. the walls of which
remain on the north, south, and west sides, are built of
the rough blue lime-stone of which the neighbouring rocks
spre formed, two stories high ; and these with the chiin>
neys, several of which are standing, are the principal ob-
jects seen from a distance. The entrances to this court
yard or parade, are between the buildings, and quite nar-
row ; and the solid style of building, with the dark colour
of the stone, and the loopholes which are seen in some
parts of the walls, increase the gloomy impression of the
ruins. By the southern entrance, Ethan Allen entered
with his S3 raw soldiers when he suprised the fortress on
the 18th May, 1775 ; and on reaching the court yard and
calling on the commander to surrender, the British officer,
Capt. Deplace, made his appearance at a window and tiub-
mitted, delivering up 3 officers and 44 rank and file. In
consequence of this coup dc main, this important place
was in the hands of the Americans until the arrival of
jPui^oyne in 1777.
The troops in the garrison had become loose disciplina*
rlans. Allen approached with a few men upon the oppo-
site shore, but was unprovided with a conveyance to the
intended point of their enterprise. A countryman, who
had been in the habit of frequently visiting the fort, was
made acquainted with Allen's views, crossed the lake
by day light, went carefully into the fort, and observed
in what part of the parade ground the arms were stacked.
Being almost domiciliated by the frequency of his previous
visits, he lounged away his time until night approached.
He then possessed himself of a large bateau owned by
the garrison, and recrossed the lake. Allen with his little
Spartan band embarked, effiscted a landing about one
mile north of the fort, and proceeded across the meadows,
shrouded by the night, and made good their daring enter-
prise, by threatening the sentry and taking immediate
possession of the fire arms, as pointed out by their avant
courier.
The
flag of i
render
to the t
At ea
under t
apartmc
trance t
probablj
ovens al
larger, 1
arched,
and 10
proof,
demolisl:
more gui
to fire do
shrubs
cvacuati(
where at
appearan
selves w
delightfu
east, an(
a store
TRAVELLER.
177
The battlements of Ticonderoga first bore tbe proud
flag of independence. This circumstance should of itself
render this ruin, so fine in other associations, interesting
to the traveller.
At each corner was a bastion or a demi-bastion ; and
under that in the north-eastern one is a subterranean
apartment, the access to which is through a small en-
trance near that corner of the court yard. The room was
probably a kitchen, as it has a fire place and two arched
ovens at the further end : that on the left, which is the
larger, being 19 or 20 feet long. The room is also
arched, measures about 35 feet in length, 21 in breadth,
and 10 or 11 in height, and like the ovens was bomb-
proof. The cellars south of this, which belonged to the
demolished buildings, and are almost filled up, have a
room or two with fire places still distinguishable.
The Grenadiers* Battert.
This important outwork is situated on a rocky point to-
wards the east from the main fortress. They were con-
nected by a covered way, the traces of which are dis-
tinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced with
stone, with five bides, one of which measures about 180
feet ; but that towards the lake has been undermined by
time and slipped down the bank. The remaining parts
are nearly entire, and about 10 feet high.
Still in advance of the Grenadiers* Battery is a small
tvork of earth, which might have contained 5 or 6 guns ;
while in front of it, and on the extreme point, two or three
more guns appear to have been placed between the rocks,
to fire down upon the water, about 40 feet below. The
shrubs and trees which have grown up since the
evacuation of the place, with the ivy which hangs every
where among the rocks, give the spot a very romantic
appearance ; and if the visiters have furnished them-
selves with refreshments, they will not find a more
delightful place to ifcgale themselves. A little further
east, and under the bank, is an old stone house, formerly
a store helonging to the fort, and now occupied by the
Q 2
178
THE NORTHERN
tenunt of Mr. Pell, the proprietor of the whole peninsula
of Ticonderoga. On a spot formerly occupied as the
KingU Gardent Mr. P. has a fine garden, abounding in (he
choicest fruits imported from Europe, and transported
from the celebrated nurseries of Long Island. Mr. Pell
has been a very successful propagator of the locust tree,
{Rotrinia Paeudo acacia of Linnaeus,) thousands of ivhich
are growing on these grounds in the most flourishing man-
ner : here is also the J^agnolia Grandifloray never before
cultivated in so high a latitude ; the horse chesnut ( Cas"
tanea Eqmnus,) and upwards of 70 varieties of the goose-
berry from Europe. Here also we find the beautiful CatatpOf
and the Liriodendron tulipefera. The grounds are laid out
with good taste, and when visited by the author were in
excellent order. If it is the intention of the traveller to
cross the lake, to the neighbouring Vermont shore, where
are still some slight remains c . Burgoyne's entrenchments,
he will be much pleased with a walk across the mea-
dows to the upper ferry, a distance of about ^ of a mile.
This will remind him, if he has been abroad, of the park
scenery of England ; and the view of the ruins from those
meadows is strikingly beautiful : the clumps of trees, the
circuitous route, the view of Lake Ghamplain on the
right, and an amphitheatre of wood on the left, make this
a most beautiful and interesting route.
Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the fortress, the
shore retains traces of many little terraces, breastworks,
and buildings, such as were probably work shops, barracks,
stores, &c.
From the more elevated parts of the works the visiter
enjoys, in fine weather, a delightful view of the lake and
the surrounding country. On the right is the outlet of
Lake George, winding through a dark and narrow valley,
and spreading out to embrace an island of the brightest
Tcrdure ; while more immediately under the eye lies a
fertile little meadow, interspersed with a few trees and
clusters of shrubs, and after the hay has been made and
stacked, sometimes enlivened by a herd of horses or cattle.
The south-western angle of the fortress, which looks down
upon this scene, is one of the most elevated parts of the
remaining wall, and overhangs the descent to the mea-
dow, at the edge of which, jast by the side of a stone wall
TRAVELLER.
17U^
below, arc seen the traces of the old covered way, ivhich
led from the south gate to the margin of the lake.
The great mountain, which rises dark and abruptly (Vom
the opposite shore, is
Mount Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit
of which Gen. Burgoyne^s troops showed themselves on
the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy
cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by night,
and planted in that commanding position, whence they
could count the men in the fort. The distance to the sum-
mit in a straight line is about a mile, so that the defence
of Ticonderoga would have been impossible ; and on the
firing of a few shots by the British upon a vessel in the
lake, which proved the range of their guns, the Ameri-
cans made preparations to evacuate the place, and effected
their retreat to the opposite shore during the night.
At the foot of Mount Defiance is a beautiful little bay
formed by a narrow piece of land, called Sword Point,
from its bending round in the arc of a circle, and covered
with trees and bushes.
The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the
view is extremely fine from its summit. There are the
remains of Burgoyne*s battery, with holes drilled in the
rocks for blasting, and the marks of a large block house.
A screw jack for raising their heavy cannon from tree to
tree was found a few years ago, and removed, with other
articles.
Mount Independekcb is a hill of comparatively small
elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated from it
by the lake, which has here reduced its size to that of a
small river. On a bank, just above the water, are the re-
mains of a zig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, run-
ning across a little corn field behind a house, and making
fire or six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable on
an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A bridge
once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defiance, the
buttresses of which are remaining, to the great annoyance
of the navigators of the lake ; the steam boat passes to the
south of them. On the west shore, (near the stone store
house,) Arnold, when pursued by the British, caused
bis flotilla to be run on shore. These bulks remain
almost as sound as when first stranded. A forty-two
180
THE NORTHERN
pounder is said to hnve ranged from the Horse Shoe over
this channel, (now marked by a buoy,) and the fortress.
After the Revolutionary war about 500 cannon were
lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left
by the English with their truniuns knocked off. A twenty-
four pounder was taken to the forge at Fair-Haven «omc
few years ago, and discharged by the heat, after lying
loaded for above twenty years, and a considerable time at
the bottom of the lake.
The mountainous region on the west side of the lake
abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed
evenr season.
Ticonderoga is doubtless destined to become a favourite
place of resort for strangers, as it possesses so many at-
tractions in its scenery, its historical monuments and ^s*
sociations, and will hereafter offer so many conveniences,
in being a stopping place for the steam boats, and furnished
with a large hotel.
The Passage from Ticonderoga down Lake Cham-
plain
is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the wav
to Canada, with fine natural scenes.
Five Mile Point. V' ,^ ^.
The lake is narrow at this place, which is remarkable
as the landing place of Gen. Burgoync^s expedition, as
already mentioned. Mountains appear in the west and
north-west, with occasional intervals all the way up to
Crown Point ; while in the north, b n lofty and imposing
range, with two or three peaks almost bald from the
height of their elevation. Summits multiply as we pro-
ceed, and distant mountains arise also in the north-east ;
while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards thr.
south bound the view in that direction. There are scat-
tering farms and houses on both shores.
Navigation of Lake Champlain. Great numbers of small
schooners navigate these waters, and within a few years
numerous canal boats, some of them fitted with masts for
schooners for sailing, Annesley's mode of building vessel
has late
timbers
running
There
The si
of blue li
The in
Crown I
at a righi
to the no
young foi
ancient f<
and histo
where the
gers, is oi
house in f
stop if th
is opposite
From t1
sive, up tl
its narrof
and a mo
mountains
nences ne;
This po
breast woi
40 or 50 r
be brough
garrison.
Crown Pc
immediate
There
with little
called the
^inaloldF
TRAVELLER.
m
has lately bepn adopted here to some extent, in which
timbers are discarded, and the bulls formed of inch boprds
running in several thicknesses, and in cross directions.
There are many fish caught in some parts of the lake.
The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments
of blue lime-stone rock with organic remains.
The immediate shores are generally low all the way to
Crown Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west
at a right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly
to the north again. A low stretch of land covered with a
joung forest on the left, conceals the approach to this
ancient fortress, which, for position, as well as appearance
and history, may be called the twin sister of Ticonderoga.
Chihmbt Foikt,
:\ ■^-'■j
where the steam boat often receives and lands passen-
gers, is on the north side of the lake, with a lai^e public
house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the place to
stop if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, which
is opposite, across a ferry $ of a mile.
From this elevated spot the view is various and exten-
sive, up the lake on the left, down it on the right, with
its narrow channel just in front — Crown Point opposite,
and a mountain beyond, with many ranges of distant
mountains towards the south-east, and several bold emi-
nences near at hand in the south-west and west.
This point is almost insulated by two bays ; and an old
breast work is partly perceptible, which formerly stretched
40 or 50 rods between them, near a barn. Cattle used to
be brought down here in great numbers for the use of the
garrison. A ferry boat will take the traveller over to
Crown Point at any hour, but the steam boat proceeds
immediately.
The Fortress op Crown Point.
There are several old works thrown up along the shore,
with little bays between tbem. The eastern-most one is
called the Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is the ori-
ginal old French for't of 1731, and now encloses a garden ;
182
THE NORHERN
and that further west is an outwork to a bastion of the
fortress.
The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back
from the shore, and appears much like Ticonderoga from
a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the old
barracks, and walls of earth surrounding them. In regard
to its plan, however, it is materially different. The for-
tress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the form
of a pentagon, with bastions at the angles, and a strong re-
doubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in advance of
each of them. The fortress is surrounded by a ditch
welled in with stone, except where it has been blasted
into the solid rock of blue lime-stone, (as is the case in
many parts, from five to twenty-five feet,) and even into
the quarts rock which underlays it. Univalve shells are
found in the .limc-stone rock, frequently four inches in
diameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet high, and
there is a convenient path running entirely round upon
the top, interrupted only by the gates at the north and
south sides. Although much shaded by tall sumacs, some
fine views are enjoyed in making the circuit, which is not
far short of half a mile. It was built in 1756.
Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks;
and close by, the remains of a covered or a subterraneous
way to the lake shore. On entering the fortress, the
stranger finds himself in a level, spacious area, bounded
on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of
stones two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while
the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the
right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The
place was surprised b^ Col. Warner in 1775.
The view from the walls towards the north is very fine :
looking down the lake, which widens at the distance of
two or three miles, you have Chimney Point on the right,
and two other points projecting oeyond the distant peak,
called CameVs Hump ; a range of mountains on the western
shore, beginning at the distance of IS miles, including
Bald Peak, gradually approach till they form a near
and bold boundary to the lake on the left, scattered with
cleared farms and houses, and then stretching away to
the south, terLxinate in the mountains behind. This
elevation, althoi<^h it seems almost as well calculated to
«:ommao
deroga, i
Every
ruin. T
the sout
shingled
mow and
and othei
ground ai
blasted ro
of old bui
since the e
is an inscr
TUAVELLEU.
183
of the
le back
;a from
:he old
regard
he for-
le form
r rocks;
rraneous
ress, the
bounded
Idiiigs of
ig, while
) on the
h. The
ery fine :
stance of
Ibe right,
int peak,
} western
ncluding
I a near
Bred with
away to
Id. This
ilated to
command Crown Point as Mount Defiance docs Ticon-
deroga, is not less than four miles distant.
Every thing about this oM fortress bears the marks of
ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in
the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the
shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little hay
mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the entrances
and other parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. The
ground around it is much covered with fragments of
blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the ruins
of old buildings. The trees which are seen, have grown
since the evacuation of the place ; and on one of the angles
is an inscription uf the date of the fortress.
In 1776 the British had a fleet on Lake Champlain com-
posed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt.
Pringle, carrying 18 twelve pounders ; two schooners, one
with 14 the other with 12 six pounders ; a flat-bottomed
radeau with C twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 20 small
crafl,|each carrying a gun from nine to twenty-four pound-
ers, and several long boats, beside boats for bs^gage,
stores, &c.
The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 sloop,
3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, tho largest vessel carrying only
12 six and four pounders. These were under the com-
mand of Arnold, who drew them up between the island
of Valincourt and the western shore, where they were at-
tacked. They fought four hours, and the British at last
retreated ; but while making his way towards Crown
Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the squadron
fled up the lake, passing this place which was evacuated.
Arnold remained fighting as long as possible, and did not
leave his vessel until she had taken fire.
The eastern bastion rakes the little bay, over which is
seen the Grenadiers' Battery, backed by a high hill on the
opposite shore, and several ranges of mountains. On the
right stretches away the lake, with still more lofty blue
ranges in the distance, uninterrupted to the very south.
The intermediate near ground declines gently and
smoothly before us ; and before the present growth of oaks
and other trees made their appearance, could he swept by
the cannon of the fortress.
On making a signal at the fcrrv to the steam boat, she
184
TH£ NORTHERN
vrill stop and send fur a passenger. Proceeding down the
lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at the two
islands on the right it is about 1^ miles across. A little
further is
Put'tn^Bay, on the eastern shore, with an island of
the same name. A little north the lake appears nar-
rower than it is, with a precipice on the left, and a small
island on the right, with three bushes on it, which has
hence obtained the name of the Scotch Bonnet, Looking
south the lake presents a fine expanse, extending almost
to Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the right
Basin Harbour is a stopping place. It is rery small,
"with room for only 3 or 4 vesseU. At a great distance in
the N. E. is seen the CamcPs Hump : further north a high
mountain in Halifax, Vt.
Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low in the
<«. middle, and contains several trees, which look not unlike
masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty day, in the
Reyolutionary or French war, and fired upon by a vessel,
whence its name.
At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadth of
several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. On
the west side is a rounded island covered with pine trees,
like much of the shore previously seen, and separated from
the main land only by a narrow rent of about fifteen feet.
Apparently just within this aperture is a rude arch of rock,
like the remains of an ancient bridge. A beautiful bay
makes up behind the island, of which a glimpse is caught
in passing ; and a little further north it opens beautifully
to view, with a smooth declining shore beautifully cult!-
▼ated for several miles. Farms and farm houses are seen
there in every direction, and the country exhibits every
appearance of industry and fertility ; while a blue range
of the AUeghanies rises behind them, like the Calakill
Mountains seen from the city of Hudson.
On the eastern side, the . Green Mountains tower at a
distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster of
white buildings is discovered forming the little village
of Charlotte or McNeil's Ferry, which is backed by a
few fields and orchards. Further north the shores are
rocky, and rise abruptly from the water.
ȴrn Ibc
the two
A little
slanrl of
irs nar>
I a small
hich has
Looking
g almost
;hc right,
iry small,
stance in
ill a high
ow in the
lot unlike
ay, in the
a vessel,
breadth of
iew. On
)ine trees,
rated from
fteen feet.
Bh of rock,
utiful bay
e is caught
beautifully
fully culti-
3s are seen
ibits every
blue range
he Catbkill
tower at a
a cluster of
ittle village
lacked by a
shores are
-^
»
,.iH
C^
Xj^
P'/
ffbrt
' -""
xl
r>^
ri
sures. It stands at the end of a low point, and was built
to command the passage of the lake during the last war.
On running the line of the United States and Canada,
the commissioners at first fixed the boundary a little south
of this place, so as to bring the fort within the limits of
the latter ; but in consequence of the line agreed on by
the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was determined
that an arrangement should be made for the benefit of
both parties ; and the boundary has been left in its former
place. An opening through the woods, like a road, marks
the place, about half a mile north of the fort.
The country hereabouts is very uninteresting : for the
level country has begun which extends far into Canada.
The appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they
llfeing low, and in many places aImo»t overflown by the
'kC. are
time on
(ring of
ips, ex-
Iberland
Ith such
tem side -,
It of hewn
of embra>
. was built
! last war.
Canada,
Htle south
t limits of
eed on by
etermined
benefit of
its former
ad, marks
g: for the
Canada,
rm; they
vrn by the
..f
waters
tion, b
of pop
This
with ju
elevatio
the islai
and enti
Then
angles ;
and the
the stort
east 8id<
tance by
places,
ters, gen
dens tas
Chinese
hospital,
bearing
diers' qu
mented y
The c
two divis
soldiers,
ceeded d
and Croi
other, w
consistec
ceeded
for Queb
ceeded t
place a c
Beyon
with nui
forest en
n.vh'f
TKAVELLEll.
187
waters of the lake. There are but few signs of cultiva-
tion, but the country is evidently experiencing an increase
uf population.
,..t
Isle avx Noix, 1 1 miles.
This is the English frontier post ; and has been chosen
with judgment, as although the ground is of hardly any
elevation, it is higher than any in the neighbourhood ; and
the island is so situated as partly to occupy the channel,
and entirely to command it.
There is a long wall and battery on the south side, with
angles ; beyond which are seen a large stone building,
and the roofs of others on the left and right of it, forming
the store houses, &c. of the post. The channel is on the
east side, and very narrow, faced for a considerable dis-
tance by another battery. Sentries are posted in different
places. The ship yard succeeds, and the officers* quar-
ters, generally neat, one story buildings, with little fpx-'
dens tastefully laid out. Here is a landing place in the
Chinese style. A large stockaded building, which is the
hospital, succeeds, with a large arch raised on the shore,
bearing the royal crown. 1 he little cabins are the sol-
diers* quarters, and some of them are neat, and orna-
mented with flowers.
The expedition against Canada, in 1775, consisted of
two divisions : one of 3000 New-England and New- York
soldiers, under Generals Schuyler and Montgomery, pro-
ceeded down Lake Ghamplain in rafts, from Ticonderoga
and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. The
other, which was planned and despatched subsequently,
consisted of a large body, under Gen. Arnold, and pro-
ceeded through the wilderness, in the District of Maine,
for Quebec. The former division, after a little delay, pro-
ceeded to St. John's. They afterwards formed at this
place a chevaux de frieze in the river.
Beyond, the shores continue low and uninteresting,
with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the
forest encroaching to within a short distance behind.
188
THE NORTHERN
St. John's, 10 miles.
Here the steam boat stops, at the head of the raping,
and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches are some-
times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly on
their way to Montreal : ( 1 6 miles by land, and 9 by water on
the St. Lawrence, in a steam boat.) But the arrangements
are sometimes different, and it has eten been the custom
often to spend a night in this place. The stage house, on the
left hand, about a quarter of a mile up the main street, is
in some respects an excellent house.
The village presents nothing worthy of particular atten-
tion, except as the scene of some military deeds, connect-
ed with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against this
country.
While the continental troqis were stationed at Isle aux
Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and Schuyler came
down the river, and landed a mile and a half above this
town, bat were attacked by the Indians on their march,
and though they succeeded in repelling them, thought
proper to return. Soon afterwards they came again and
invested the fort, which contained a garrison of 5 or 600
troops, beside 200 Canadians, and was commanded by
MiQor Preston. The siege lasted 6 weeks, and they did
not capitulate till some time after the surrender of Cham-
biy, nor till the Americans had brought their trenches to
the walls of the fort. They then obtained possession of
17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortari^, with balls, bombs, &c.
&c«
The Canadian money is different (tom that of the
United States ; but in consequence of the continual inter-
course, the latter passes currently. Nine sous or cop-
pers, (which are of various and sometimes curious stamps,)
equal six cents. 2 sous nearly 1 d, and 20 cents a shilling.
The pleasantest road from St. John's to Montreal, is by
Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see the Index ;) but
as no regular coaches go that way, it is recommended to
hire a carriage in Montreal, on returning from Quebec.
Leaving St. John's for Montreal, the road pasies about
^ a mile along the western shore of the River Richelieu,
which sometimes takes the names of St. John's and So-
TRAVELLEU.
ISU
rapicts,
some-
ictly on
rater on
;ementt
custom
if on the
itreet, is
tisteaux
jrler came
ibote thb
lir march,
I, thought
again and
r 5 or 600
landed by
id they did
: of Cham-
trenches to
msession of
bombs, &c.
hat of the
tinual inter-
ous or cop-
3U8 stamps,)
a shilling,
►ntreal, ishy
Index;) but
immended to
m Quebec,
passes about
rer Richelieu,
hn*s and So-
rei, iu consequence of its running by those towns. Se-
veral mountains are in sight, as Bcloeil, Boucherville, &c.
The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a small
scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Lawrence,
which will hereafter excite the interest, if not the appre-
hension of the stranger. The bed of the Richelieu has a
rapid descent in several places, where it comes immedi-
ately under observation, and becomes so shallow as to be
passable for the flattest boats only during the floods. In
the summer, it is generally only a few inches deep, and
the surface broken by numerous stones of all sizes, and
here and there by little water falls near the shore. At
the same time the banks are lo%v and flat ; the houses of
one floor, whitewashed, an«l built at nearly equal distances,
facing the river; and, in short, the general character
of a scene on the St. Lawrence, may be imagined from a
view here, by making allowance for its size and fertility.
The inhabitants, out of the town, immediately assume
the aspect of foreigners, in dress, Siountenance, man-
ners, customs, and language. Their fashions are an-
tique, and many of them have not been changed for ages :
the men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash,
and moccasin of rough leather. The women work labo-
riously in the field, and all of them speak French, gene-
rally without knowing a word of any other language.
The farms will be observed, laid out in strips of 1 or 200
acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in length ;
and the system of farming is extremely bad, as will be
discovered at once, by the acres that are consigned to the
useless and destructive little Canada Thistle. There is
no such thing known here as the doctrine of a rotation
of crops, and land is recovered to fertility by lying fallow,
except that lately the use of manure has begun to be
resorted to in a small degree. The horses are of a small
breed, well kiiown in the northern states, by the name of
the country. They are small and slow, but powerful and
hardy. Many of them are driven across the line, and
lai^ horses introduced into the towns in return. The
value of a common Canadian horse is about {$40 ; and of
a good one, $6U.
There is very little to be seen on this road to interest
the traveller, except the novelty of what he observes.
R2
190
THE NORTHERN
The landscape is unvarying : the inhabitants as ivell as
the soil are poor, and there is nothing that deserves the
name even (Mf a village. We pass a house now and then,
dignified by a tall pole or mast raised in front of it, which
18 a singular mark of distinction conceded to officers of
militia, and usually adopted by those of the lowest grades.
The people appear very happy, and have healthy coun-
tenances, inclining to round faces, and thick lips. Many
of them show the upper front teeth when silent ; and
their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes a want
of education, which is the real cause of the backward
condition of society in Canada. They are all Catholics ;
and the churches seen here and there upon the road, are
all devoted to the service of the Romish church. One
large church, lately built of gray stone, will be seen on
the south side of the road.
. t The Half Wat House
is dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants understand
English, and it is generally stopped at only a few
minutes. The land is divided in some places by ditches
round the farms ; and there are the channels of several
small streams which cross the road. One of these is
passed on a bridge, just east of the stopping place.
<■ About h a mile beyond, are some barracks built for
troops, during the late war. One of the most singular
traits in the domestic arrangements of the Canadians,
is building the oven not only out of doors, like the Dutch,
but directly over the pig sty.
The mountain from which the city of Montreal derived
its name, and which rises immediately behind it, may be
discovered at a great distance ; and the house of Mr. Mc
Tavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a little dis*
tance up its side.
Some time before reaching the river, you pass an ex-
tensive common, lying on the south side of the road, and
then enter the town of ^
Laprairie.
t**-:'
\
Hotchkiss*s inn, near the river, kept by a man from the
UnitjBd States.
y TRAVELLER.
191
rom the
This is ft large town, from which a steam boat crosses
three times a day, to Montreal, 9 miles. It is built after
the Canadian fashion ; and very few of the inhubitants
spealc English. The streets are narrow, the houses low,
and nothing is to be seen worthy of jMirticiilar notice,
excepting a nunnery and the church, both which may
seem curious to those who are not familiar with Catholic
countries ; though of inferior interest to those of Mon-
treal and Quebec. The nuns possess a large tract of land,
nearly in the centre of the town, which is surrounded by
a high wall : and they devote their time to the care of
the sick, and the education of girl'^> « ui*;
The view of Montreaf from the wharf is uninterrupted.
The city is distinguished at the distance of nine miles, by
its thick mass of buildings, roofed with shbc -^ of tin, and
overtopped by church spires, shining with the 8ai;;;«% metal.
Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted with orchards ; on
the right, down the St. Lawrence, is the fortified island
of St. Helen ; and on the left, that of the Nuns, and
several smaller ones at a distance, through which are seen
the sheets of white foam caused by the rapids. The
shores are low and perfectly flat in every direction \ which,
with the wide expanse of water, gives an aspeci of tire-
some monotony and extension to the scene. At a great
distance up, are seen Isle Heron and others. Uniformity
will be found characteristic of almost the whole voyage
to Quebec.
The current of the river will appear extremely rapid,
particularly near those parts where the surface is broken
by rocks ; but the steam boats are supplied with engines
comparatively powerful* and are able to eJBect the pas-
sage with facility and in safety. An hour is generally
spent in going, and from 1} to 3 in returning. It is im-
possible, however, for any boat to go through the current
without being borne rapidly down in some places ; and
there is apart of the river near the middle, where the
water is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on the bot-
tom, as the boats glide on above them. In returning, the
boat sometimes parses between two rocks, near the rapids,
that on the east being under water. Here the surface is
much agitated, and sometimes throws the water on deck
"-without any danger. . ^
idi
TUB NOUTHEUN
A particular description or the various objects in Mon-
treal and the vicinity, will be postponed for the present ;
mud it is necessary here, to mention only the more pro-
minent objects which strike the eye on the approach.
A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple,
belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is
the Recolet church; then the French Parish church,
near which will hereafter be seen the five towers of the
Great cathedral. The English Episcopal church has a
tall pyramidal spire ; and that which rises farther to the
right, and near the shore, is the church of Bon-secours.
From some places may be seen the top of Nelaon*s monu-
ment, with several other remarkable objects, particularly
the barracks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old
city wall.
iiij
MONTREAL.
lans. Masonic Hall,* at the north end of the city, with
a piazza over the bank ; Goodenough*s, St. Paul-street ;
Mansion House, do. These are all large houses, and
porters will be found on the shore belonging to each, who
will convey the luggage, and show the way.
The landing place is unpleasant, and the stranger may
be struck with the narrowness of Uie streets, the lowness,
and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of stone or
plastered to resemble it : but all this is in conformity with
the fashion of the country ; and Montreal contains many
fine buildings and other objects worthy of notice, together
with a vicinity which in the warm season of the year is
truly delightful.
Those who remain but a short time in this city, may
easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of curiosi-
* The Masonic Hall is the most expensive hotel in Montreal.
It is kept by Mr. Riasco, an Italian, and has a restaurant in the
French fashion, where the stranger may select his dinner
from a Ions bill of fare. The highest rate of board, including
private parlour, &c. is 1/. 5s. per day. The main building i>
4 stories high, and the two win^s 3.
TRAVELLER. "*'
193
ty ; and are recommended to take a walk through the two
principal streets, and to notice the following buildings and
places.
At the north end of St. PaulVstreet are the Barracks.
Just abo?e the Masonic Hall, is the French church of
Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious
buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those
in France. The roofs are, howeTcr, generally covered
with tin, which is not much used in other countries.
This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond
which begins the Quebec suburb.
Masonic Hall,
on the eastern side of the street.
Theatrb,
a^oining the Masonic Hall.
■••^f;-'/*lv'* it-.*
>«•
Market Place and Nelson's Monument, (Onihirighi,)
Then follows a double row of shops. On the east side
are several, which show articles of Indian manufacture
for sale. These, however, had better be bought at the
nunneries, if it is intended to visit them.
The Black Nuns* Garden, Convent, and Chapel,
are on the west side of the street. The wall is very high.
The porter at the gate will give admission and directions,
but in French. Visiters are expected to purchase a few
articles of nuns', or Indian manufacture. It is most
agreeable to go in parties.
The New Cathedral and Old Parish Church ^^
are close by : a short street leads to them, west. *
Passing about a quarter of a mile, by stores and shops,
Goodenouoh's Hotel is on the west side, in a court
yard* — Further on, a street on the opposite side briogt
you in sight of the
194
THE NORTHERN
Grat Nuns* Convent.
A large stone building, partly new» about 410 feet iu
length.
Mansion House Hotel, St. Paurs-street, below an
open square. , ,
Seminary.* * f ;
College, t
.1: i I
(The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore,
nearly against here.)
f The Seminary (La Seminaire) is an antique buildii^,
and contains a Catholic library of about 6000 volumei ;
but access to it is not very easily obtained. The Colleee in
this cit^ was built by money supplied from the funds of this
institution,
t The College is a Iar{];e building of stone, three stories hi?b,
erected in 1819 out of the funds of the << Seminary." It has
a front of about 150 feet, with wings projecting in front and
rear, which make the whole leneth about 220 feet. It has a
spacious yard on the south side, for a play ground, succeeded
by a fine gparden ; and a little brook passes m the rear, which
is made very uDeful. In order to guard against fire, there is
scarcely any wood used in the construction ; and large iron
doors are hung in the passages in such a manner that by shut-
ting them the whole buildii^ may be divided into three parts,
each fire-proof.
It contains about 300 students, who are divided into 8 classes,
to each of which is devoted a year, with the exception of the
two last, which occupy but 6 months apiece, so that the whole
course of instruction is finished in 7 years. Many of the
pupils, however, leave the institution oefore completing the
course.
The Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the build-
ing is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, the former
or which are hung with maps and religiouH pictures, and the
latter suppUed wiu crosses and fonts. Every thing is very
Slain in tne furniture. The price of instruction is about eighty
ollars per jear, and some of the pupils have allowances made
them ; particularly those designed for the Church, who assist in
instruction by day, and study oy night. There is apreparatory
School connected with the College. One of the instntcter":
alwaTs oversees the bovs in their recreations.
TUAVELLEft.
195
Returning; to the square, and entering another princi'
pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume-
rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving the
Parish Church and the new Cathedral on the east.
The Weslbtan Chapel. .
The American Conorboational, and the English
Episcofal Churches are passed in this side of the town.
The Court House .
19 large, but old ; and in the rear of it is
The Parade,
a handsome piece of ground, with a walk, where the
troops are drilled every morning, generally at 10 oV vV.
There is commonly but a small number of soldiers ii the
city, during peace; and in 1825, a sinele regiment
garrisoned Montreal and the other posts in the neighbour-
hood towards the United States.
The British and Canadian School Society established
schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 1!^?2.
In Sept. 1825, there had been admitted 1706 boys, and
444 girls, most of whom were of the poorer class. It is
supported by voluntary subscriptions. Nine hundred
pounds, the remainder of a large sum collected in Eng-
land, for the instruction of Indians not otherwise instruct-
ed, is in the hands of this society, to be hi >"a(ler devoted
to that object.
There is a Lancasterian School of 300 or 400 scholars,
ivhere some of the most influential Canadians, Catholics,
having become aware of the value of education, have
placed themselves on the commiitud. There is an Epis-
copal School on Bell's system.
The priests in Canada have begun to educate in self
defence. The schools provided for by government, are
restricted to masters of the English church ; and a con*
siderable number of school houses have been erected, but
almost confined to the townships. . m
196 THE NORTHERN
Island of St. Helen, or Grant^s Island.
This has recently been purchased by the British govern^
ment, for a military position and depot. It is principally
covered with trees ; but has a beautiful garden behind the
quarters of the officers ; and a fine road winding round
from the landing place, on the south end, (where are some
remains of old works, and a new battery,) to a rocky
eminence over the arsenal, which is opposite the northern
quarter of the town. This rock is about eleven feet
higher than the most elevated parts of the city ; and the
view from it is handsome, with a wild ravine just below.
The arsenal and store houses form three buildings, tvith
a narrow yard between them, about 135 feet in length.
The batteries range on the river and town, and are fiu*
nished with neat barracks, a magazine, &c.
The Mountain OF Montreal
offers an extensive and delightful view, and should by no
. means be forgotten by those who have an opportunity to
undertake the excursion. It is better calculated to afford
an idea of the country, as well as to delight the eye, than
any other excursion which can be made. Yet it is recom*
mended, if the traveller stays long enough, to take a ride
or two io different directions, after having visited this
favourite spot.
There are three ways of reaching the summit of the
mountain : on foot, by an intricate route from the southern
part of the city ; on horsebackf or in a carriage, to the
ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There is also
a foot path up the north en^d. A private road turns off
from the southern road on the ridge, passing through a
gate. '^
It is intended to erect a handsome building on the sum-
mit, and to clear away the trees ; and a subscription has
been opened for the purpose. At present, the only good
point of view is from a rock above McTavish's house,
whence a very steep path leads directly down.
The country spread out to view on arriving at this com-
manding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to appear
in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it stretches
JD.
h govern-
rincipally
lehind the
ing round
are some
9 a rocky
I northern
even feet
; and the
St below,
ings, with
in length,
d are fur-
!#■
ould by no
rtunity to
d to afford
i eye, than
t is recom*
take a ride
risited this
imit of the
le southern
ig-e, to the
here is also
id turns off
; through u
)n the sum-
sription has
B only good
sh's house,
Bit this con)'
IS to appear
it stretches
/^ ■ . Jfjtrjfv
much
Quebe
The
tain, a!
which
litioni
1 Jiiay of
high pt
, modem
^jfiver, g
hind a
suburbs
ofer it i
plaihco
Tided ii
In the
Island ;
steeple i
Quebec i
works, s
Lawrenc
S. S.
nearlj o
guishabh
Nun3» F
miles wi(
are St. .
Distant i
andyPoin
opposite
with a t»
JV. Ea
cultivatec
distinguis
he seen, <
To Lac
pleasante
TRAVELLER.
197
i
much farther thftn woull be imagined ; for all the way to
Quebec, the river's bankb present the same appearance.
The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun-
tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees,
which gflOfi give place below to a smooth aescent, decli-
ning iov^ base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the ele-
4lition oriNrhich stands McTavish's house. A beautiful dis-
{llaT of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided by
high palings,^ai^d scattered with a few houses. Below a
, moderate descent, which appears like an old bank of the
driver, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; and be-
hind a succeeding one, of a similar description, are
suburbs.
' float, on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain ; and
oter it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The
plaiti country between the Sorel and Sl.wawrence is di-
vided into innumerable fields, with scattlpring houses.
In the same direction is seen St. HelenVi, or Grant's
Island ; and in a direction with the south end of it^ the
steeple of Bon-secour's church. North of this are the
Quebec suburbs, beginning near the barracks, the water-
works, and baths. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St.
Lawrence suburbs.
8. S, Eastf on the opposite shore, La Prairie ; and
nearly over it, the site of St. John's, which is not distin-
guishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, and
Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3|
miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city,
are St. Anteine, Rieolet, St. Anne's, and St. Joseph's.
Distant mountains.
JV*or "I
Rapids of Richelieu.
The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs
with great velocity, particularly the first three miles ; but
the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except near
the shores, which are lined with innumerable loose round
stones and rocks, extremely dangerous to vessels when
they get among them. These rocks seem placed with
mueh regularity, forming two ranges, and making the wa>
ter appear as if it had a gradual swell from both sides to
the middle of the river. Although the navigation of this
part of the St. Lawrence requires great skill and caution
in other vessels, steam boats pass with security ; yet,
on account of the force of the current at ebb tide, even
they are obliged to vary their hours of leaving Quebec, in
such a way as to have the flood through the rapids. Ves-
sels are often seen waiting at the bottom of the rapids for
a change of tide, or for a steam boat to tow them up.
The rapids extend about nine miles.
St. ANToiNB,onthe south bank, is 18 miles (6 leagues)
from Quebec. The mountain seen towards the uorth-east
is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side makes a
beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by cultivated
fields, interrupted by occasional patches of wood land :
DT) the side of the ridge, about midway fjrom the water to
TUAVELLEK.
iiQ7
ilie topf passes the road. The south shore, on the con-
trary, continues high and abrupt and nearly perpendicular,
with innumerable cottages peeping over the brow.
Point aux Trbmblks, a village on the north shore.
The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz.
about two miles, although it appears much narrower;
the depth is about five Hithoms, and the tide rises 14 or
15 feet. Nothwithstanding the thickness of the popula-
tion on the shores, the country is a ivilderness only about
four miles back, being comprehended in what is called the
King's Hunting Ground, which extends from Three Rivers,
40 or 50 miles below this place.
Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a
village on the north side, situated at the mouth of the ri-
ver of the same name, which is likewise distinguished by
the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law-
rence.
Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty
view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the
north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorette, at tho
distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beauti-
ful land, and a range of fine mountains in the rear.
Chaudiere River is a little below, with a rock on the
lower side, at its mouth.
Looking down the St. Lawrence, part of Point I^evi is
seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the
church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a consi-
derable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater and
greater height, and present every variety of surface.
SiLLRRT Gove is a mile below, above which was fought
the final battle between the English and French in 1759,
after the capture of Quebec by Gen. Wolfe, which com-
pleted the conquest of Canada. At the village are the re-
mains of the first church ever built in Canada.
Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the
place where Wolfe landed in the night, and up the preci-
pitous bank he climbed with his troops, afterwards draw-
ing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold afterwards took up
his troops, in 1755. There is a remarkable rock projecting
from the bank, at the head of the cove, a little to the right
of which is seen a road running up the hill, at the place
where the troops went up, when there was nothing but a
208
THE NORTHERN
foot path. The spot is about a quarter of a mile west of
a large yellow house above the bank.
Cafe Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which terminates
the high land on the north, and under the opposite side of
which Quebec is situated. It is 34S feet high ; and the for-
tified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, and the
citadel, which is included by them. The telegraph is
raised on the C&Taliers' Battery, and the round buildings
on the ridge are Marello towers, which serve as advanced
works to the fortress. The opposite point is Point Levi
and the mountains of St. Jinne and Tcurmente appear
many miles down the river.
General Montgomery was killed just at the base of
Cape Diamond, in attacking a block house on the shore
in 1775.
QUEBEC.
The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, and
stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the Upper
Town soon begins to open to view above, though the prin-
cipal part of it is on the top and the opposite side.
The Castle of St. Louis, or the Governor's Hou3l%
overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters, and
makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting tbe city
wall, which encloses the Upper Town.
But the current is too swift to allow much time for ob-
servation before arriving at the wharf, where the traveller
will find servants in waiting from the principal public
houses in the city : these are all in the Upper Town, the
ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and laborious,
so that the stranger will want their assistance as guides.
Inns. New Union Hotel, building in 1825, near tbe
Esplanade.
li|r. Lemoine's Boarding House.
Maihiot's. 41 St. Johns-street.
La Fontaine's. Opposite.
The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains
no decent pvVUc houses. After three or four turns, you
begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and
laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, which i^"
very massive, built in the old European style, of solii'
e west of
rminates
ite side of
d the for-
, and the
igraph is
buildings
advanced
oint Levi
le appear
i base of
the shore
spot, and
the Upper
1 the prin-
de.
*S HOUSLN
rters, and
; the city
me for ob-
le traveller
ipal public
Town, the
I laborious,
IS guides.
i, near the
id contains
turns, you
f steep and
II, which i?
e, of solif"
Grcmdli
JMa/v ofthe
£nniL
V.
c^
Jt.S^2l£aiurie*
l\
I i
! \
DSThroofi Sc.
TUAVELLER.
209
)I4-..,
stone, very thick, with narrow passage ways for carriages
and footmen, and a guard chamber above, with loop-holes
for musketeers. On the right, after passing this gate, is a
battery of heavy guns ; and the road in that direction, by
the city wall, conducts to within a few steps of Mr. Le-
moine's. On the contrary, to go to the other houses
mentioned, it is necessary to follow the street which opens
a little to the left, and leads into the midst of the city.
The reason why good inns and boarding houses are so
scarce in Quebec, is that during the greater part of the
year there are no strangers here, except such as come
from the neighbouring parts of country, and those not ge-
nerally of the higher orders of society. During the warm
months, therefore, when travellers can go with pleasure in
steam boats, a great want of accommodations is some-
times experienced, particularly within the last year or two:
for the numbers of strangers resorting here at that time
has astonishingly increased. These are almost all from
the United States, and appear to be regarded as welcome
visiters by the inhabitants, who are generally remarkable
for their kindness and attention to strangers.
The Military Band, attached to the regiment in gar-
rison at this place, gives some fine music every day about
sunset, and is well worthy of attention. The band con-
sists of about thirteen buglemen, and assembles in front of
the barracks, which are in the old Jesuits' College, on the
Market Square.
A walk to the Esplanade, in the highest part of the city,
by the wall, is very delightful at morning or evening, as it
commands a fine view : but Cape Diamond the finest of all.
It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first
pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont-
morency, the village of Lorette &c., which will be more
particularly spoken of hereafter ; and it will be found
mucli better, on several accounts, to set out as early in the
morning as possible.
The walls of Quebec enclose the upper part of the hill,
and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the
space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowded
together, and the streets are as closely built as in the
largest cities. Very few of the private houses present
anv thing remarkable, but there are many public bnildingp
T
H
m
210
THE NOUT^i N
worthy of particular attention. Population in lS2o,
about 22,000.
,''' The French Parish Church
stands on one side of the public square, facing the bar-
racks, with the seminary on one side. The church con-
tains little that is remarkable, the whole interior ap-
pearing rather ordinary, and the pictures having little to
boast of ; the principal of them are a Holy Family, an
Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of Tongues, and Last
Supper.
The College, which stands a little to the right in
coming out of the church, is a lai^e stone building la
which a considerable number of youth are educated by
priests, and may be distinguished in the city by wearing
the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to
such institutions in Catholic countries.
The Chapel of the Seminary,
which stands a little left from the principal gate, contains
the best collection of pictures, it is said, in all Canada:
beginning on the right hand near the door, is a picture of
the Virgin Mary attended by angels, &c. in the first chapel
on that side is a picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ;
on the right, the Baptism of the Ethiopian, John's Bap-
tism, St. John ; on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving-
the keys, infant Saviour, Devotees, kc. on the church
wall, next is a good picture unknown, then the Ascen-
sion, and Interment of the Saviour ; and over the high
altar, a Holy Family, and Dove descending ; what appears
to be some priest's dream ; on the left side, is the Descent
of Tongues, and Angel visiting a saint in prison, good ;
over the altar in the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in tbe
Wilderness, with a number of poor pictures ; and in the
church is an Evangelist, Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c.
In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, are
two skullSj with several human bones, placed against red
silk, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, as
holy and perhaps miraculous relics ; a lamp is kept con-
stantly burning under that on the left hand-
TRAVELLER.
211
The B4RRACKS
are in a large stone building opposite tbe church, which
ivas formerly the Jesuits' CulU'ge : it is three and four
stories high, forming an angle like an L, each side of
which is about 200 feet long. Here are quartered the
troops which garrison the city ; in time of peace they con-
sist of two regiments of infantry, two companies of ar-
tillery, and one of sappers and miners.
Convents.
There are t%vo convents in Quebec ; one of them has
about 40 UrsiUineSt who have a large convent and church
near the prison, in the west part of the city, and keep a
large school for girls. Tbe other convent is lower down,
and contains an hospital for diseases of the lighter kind ;
while the most serious and severe are treated at the nun-
nery near the St. Charles's River, about 1^ miles above the
town. These institutions, however, arc not now open to
visiters as they formerly were ; at least in 1825 it was im-
possible to gain access to them.
The Arsenal
is near the palace gate, and contains about 100,000 stand
of arms, arranged with great regularity.
The Castle of St. Louis
is a large building, but makes a less imposing appearance
than when seen from the water. The street beyond com-
mands a fine view ; and there are several beautiful ter-
raced gardens formed on the cteep side of the rock, al-
most overhanging the buildings in the lower town.
The fortifications of the city on the land side are
strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as before re-
marked, they may be examined with interest by taking a
walk in that direction, in the morning or evening.
St. Louis's Gate is the highest of the city gates, and the
street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to the
famous Plains of Abraham, and the battle ground of Gen.
Wolfe. . 4, ;
The Esplanade Battery
lies between St. Louis and St. John's gates, and contains
\
Iri
212
THE NORTHERN
12 cannon and 4 mortars, with magazines built where
they could not be ii^uredby an enemy's shot. The ground
slopes in such a manner as to expose a lai^e extent of
country to view, the fine fertile plain beyond St.Charles's
River, the beautiful ridge of land beyond, with the vil-
lages of Lorette, Charlebourg and others ; the St. Law-
rence on the right, with Point Levi, and the Isle of Or-
leans, and the fine ranges of distant mountains. The
mouth of the Montmorency can easily be discerned, on the
left bank of the St. Lawrence, about 9 miles from the
city ; that is the spot where the falls are to be seen, and
the battle ground where Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful
attack on the French General Dieskau, before the capture
of the city.
Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, the
plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even by an
unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing through
the gate, the strength of the place will be better under-
stood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and other
works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and formed of
sC }ne. The path is made to turn several abrupt angles, in
order to expose the approach to raking fires. In coming
towards the gate from the country, at the first angle,tbe
stranger is brought to face 8 cannon, placed in two rows, at
the second angle 2, and at the third 2 ; at the fourth he
sees 3 on the right and 3 on the left ; and at the fifth finds
himself in front of the gate, which has a gun on its
top. The gate is of very heavy and durable masonry, and
the passage through it is a dark arched way, about 55 feet
long ; it ib closed by two heavy doors, with wickets so
placed as not to face each other. Near the hospital is
part of th) old wiench wall, about 50 feet high, which con-
tains two Ok* three gentlemen's gardens.
The Citadel,
on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impregnable
strength. It has been gradually progressing for a number
of years, and in 1825 was not expected to be soon com-
pleted. Admission may be usually obtained by applica-
tion to the proper ofiicers, and the necessary information
gained at the hotels. The British government intended to
devote 6000^ per annum on these works ; but as the money
TllAVELLEK.
213
15 sometiinea delaycdi they are occasionally exposed to
uome interruptions.
Most of the works are to be new, though some parts of
the old have been made to serve. They will include 5 or
6 acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and extend
to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet above the St. Law-
rence. There are to be four bastions and one demi bastion,
a ravelin, in advance of the western batition, and other
out- works. The walls are about 40 feet high, and built
perpendicularly, of fine hewn stone ; the ditch being
blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 feet wide.
After making two angles on the west of the gate, the new
wall joins the old.
The Casemates. Entering the gate, and passing be-
hind the wall, a continued line of large rooms is disco-
vered following the wail, built of substantial brick work,
and arched over head with such strength as to be bomb
proof. These rooms, which are known by the technical
name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 wide, and
16 or 18 high, each to be lighted by a door and two small
windows, looking inward, and pierced at the other side,
with five loop holes each, for musketry. These loop
holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, and opening
with steps faced with iron, to prevent musket shot from
glancing in. In 1825, about 30 casemates had been com-
pleted, and about 10 more were designed ; these are all
towards the land side, the natural defence of the precipice
over the water being sufficiently strong. The casemates
will communicate with each other by folding doors, which
may be thrown open the whole length of the bomb proofs,
and will then furnish space for the whole garrison, (from
3000 to 5000 men,) to parade at once.
The Subterranean Passage leads from a little stair-
case in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch,
to a small out-work with two or three casemated rooms.
The stairs are so narrow, as to admit only one person at a
time ; and are constructed in a spiral form, and in the
neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet
long, has also two branches where guards might be placed
to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of the
garrison, are nea the second bastion ; and over the whole
are to be mounted large cannon.
T2
214
THE NORTHERN
Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised
during the late war with the United States, is to be partly
retained and converted into a Ca?alier8* Battery. This,
as well as the magasines, barracks, officers* quarters, &c.
is within the works ; and at the corner next the river
and town, is the old Cavaliers* Battery, a very heavy stone
building, originally erected for the palace of the French
governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's edge. Gen.
Montgomery was killed. It has dark vaults, the walls are
six feet thick, near the ground, and from the Telegraph on
the top is one of the finest views that can be imagined :
the broad surface of the St. Lawrence lies below, and
stretches off far to the right and left; the whole city of
Quebec is crowded together almost beneath you, while
Point Levi, with its white buildings, is seen opposite,
with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turning the eye in
the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge of land, which
begins many miles down the river on the northern side,
and rises with a gentle swell from the shore, covered with
the richest and most varied display of cultivation, offers
a most delightful view over an extensive and fertile
region, beautiful in form, divided into innumerable por-
tions, cultivated by a dense and industrious population,
and scattered with their clustered dwellings. On the left,
appears, among other villages, that of Lorette, with the
Montreal road for nine miles, almost lined with houses ;
and on the right that of Beaufort, occupying the ridge of
the high ground, while a little beyond it, is the chasm into
which the River Montmorency plunges, with its famous
cataract, just before it joins the St. Lawrence ; all the
horizon in that direction, and indeed from the west to
the north, and quite to the east, is broken by ranges of fine
mountains, some of them near and bold, and in other
places, between them, distant blue ridges are disclosed,
three, four, or five in succession. In the south and south-
west, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower
range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be
hazarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or
the United States, can boast of a combination of objects,
comparable in variety and magnificence to those here pre-
sented to view.
Cape Diamond derives its name from the beautiful lit*
_i*>*i,_ .-_iij i- ■.
TRAVELLER.
'2lb
tie rock-crystals, which arc found in veins of white crys-
tallized lime-stone, disseminated in the black lime-stone
blasted out for the works. The quartz stones used in the
walls are very fine, and are brought from three miles
above the city. Of those prepared for corner stones of
a bastion, near the old governor's house, are homogeneous
masses of granular quartz, weighing U or 2 tons, or even
more. Some of the crystals are perfect and brilliant,
though small.
There is a long stair case of many steps, leading from this
elevated position down to the Lower Town, by which, it
was originally intended to draw up heavy articles.
The Plains of Abraham.
This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen.
Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow, in capturing
tlic city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the distance
of a mile, and should not be neglected. Indeed it would
be found amply to repay the trouble, to make a much
longer excursion in that direction, as the road is fine and
the country interesting.*
* After the battle of Montmorency, while the English fleet
lay up the river, at one o'clock in the ni^ht of September 12th,
1759, Gen. Wolfe quietly transported his troops from the fleet
into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river. He in-
tended to land two or three miles above Cape Diamond, and
set possession of the Heights of Abraham : but was drifted
aown so rapidly that he passed the place without discovering
it, and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's Cove,
just above the city. The shore is bold and the rocks so hiffh
and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted alons the
precipices and the margin. This desperate enterprise liow-
ever did not discourage the leader or his troops ; but an hour
before day break they had eflected their landing, and com-
menced the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the
top of which was stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the
English reached the summit they formed on the level plain.
At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle
was foueht, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm
stationed 1500 sharp shooters in front, but the British coolly
stood their groimd till the French were within 40 yards', when
j^iG
THE NUKTUERN
Passing out at St.Louis*s Gate, you observe » number ol
handsome dwellings and gardens by the ro&
ff^
7]
/.
i9it the Plains of
Abraiiam to retrace it with advantaee. i
TRAVELLER.
^1
count oi
from the
n shore ;
ith a coat
, and the
ec in June^
, while the
ih General
bed himself
Above the
theMatqnis
le mouth 3f
kd erected a
i remains of
edfdongthe
olfe sent his
) storm their
pint Levi in
ned; but the
)the right of
the thirteen
i landed be-
nded in four
:, and rushed
»me distance
tad been de-
them, which
to retreat to
the beach to
»y a severe
banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright-
ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, slaty
rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and the
perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E.
At low water the Montmorency ma^ be forded, with
some caution, where it was passed by the British troops ;
but the tide rises fast and high.
The Saw Mills built by Mr. ?attcrson arc situated be-
hind the western shore of the Montmorency. As before
remarked, they are supplied with water by the trough seen
on the other side. They are all contained in one large
building, where the water enters at the third story in
three channels, moving 6 gates in the second story, and
ft in the first. These gates are collections of saws, con-
taining 6 or S each, which cut up whole logs into planks
or boards at once.
The rafts of timber are stopped above the mill, taken
apart, and thus floated down by a little canal, whence they
are drawn up by machinery, several logs being bound to-
gether by a chain, and laid before the saws. Vast quantities
of sawn lumber arc generally to be seen here on the
vrharves, ready for shipping. The mill contains 80 single
SAWS, beside 5 circular ones, which perform their work
Tvith great rapidity.
The Village of Lorette
may be taken in the way returning from Montmorency,
if there should bo time enough remaining, (which is barely
possible,) and the ride along the high ridge leading in that
direction, will be found delightful. Lorette is an Indian
village, with a Catholic church, and the stranger may fur-
nish himself with moccasins, belts, pipes, &c.
Route from Q,uebec to Boston, It is proposed by the state
of Mnine, to open a road from Hallowell up the course of
the Kennebeck River, to the Canada line near Quebec.
There is a communication kept up to some extent between
the two places, and considerable numbers of cattle are
driven every year that way ; but for a great distance
it is necessary to pass through a wilderness, and in con-
sequence of the Want of inhabitants, there is no shelter
to be found for man or beast, for several days* journeys.
X
222
THK NORTHERN
The names and diitancei of the principal places on this
tvild and unArequented routei are given below. When
the proposed road shall have been opened, it will be found
a convenient way to New-England, for those who do not
wish to return by Montreal, and will become peopled and
iVequently travelled. This is the route by which Gen.
Arnold approached Quebec in 1775.
Quebec to the Ohaudiere, or
Riviere du Loup 60
Moose River 37 97
Forks of the Kennebeck 24 121
Upper settlement on do 12 133
Hallowell 67 200
Boston 170 370
Another route along the Ptnohaeot is also to be surveyed
by the authority of the state of Maine. .
Land Route from Q,uehec to Montreal,
Upper Road,
(The pleasantor.)
< 1st post, Lorette, 16 mile?.
2d Jacques Cartier, 16
3d Deschambeaux, 16
4th St. Anne, 16
iith Batiscamp, 8
6th Champlain, 9
7th AuxCfapes, 8
Sth Trois Rivieres, 6
Lower Road,
1st post. Cape Rouge, 9
2d St. Augustine, 9
3d Pointe aux Trembles, 8
4th Ecureil,.. 9
5th Cape Sant^, 9
(Garneau's inn, called " the Three Sisters,'^
is excellent.)
6th Deschambeaux, &c S miles.
f--.^ ■' ■ ' . .■„,-.■•.■
4:--<-i '.■.:_,. ■ ' . .■ \
TRAVELLBU. 383
ROUTES FROM QUEBEC.
Road from Quebec to Montreal.
For remarks on the advantages of travelling by land on
the St. Lawrence, compared with those offered by the
steam boats, see page 300, recollecting that the passage
in the latter is usually 12 hours longer up the river than
down. (For the list of places, see the last page.)
The country for some miles above Quebec is more
varied in its surface, than that below Montreal ; and ca-
leche& and gigs may be obtained here as well as there. It
is to be hoped that regular stage coaches will soon be
established on that road. The foregoing is an enumera-
tion of the villages and best inns. The former are ge-
nerally nine miles apart, but the distances are particu-
larized.
Steam Boat. Engage an early passage to Montreal.
The number of steam boats employed on the St. Law-
rence, in 1825, was seven ; and for remarks on the navi-
gation of the river, see page 202.
Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, nearly
at the foot of which General Montgomery was killed in
775.
Wolfe^s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 207.
For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see the
map, and the notices of them in the Route from Montreal
to Quebec.
Rapids of Richelieu, page 206.
Three Rivers, page 205.
Lake St. Peters,
William Henrt or Sorel, page 204.
Montreal, page 192. . ^
See the route from Montreal to Lake Ontario and JV^a-
From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and the
United States.
Those who are returning by this route, may be advised
to cross to Longueil instead of La Prairie, and go to St,
John's by the way of Chambly. The distance is nearly
the same, the passage of the river is reduced about two-
thirds, the country, is much finer and better cultivated.
^24
THE N0RTU£11N
and the old castle or toirer of Chambly is of some intci-.
est for its history.
It will be necessary, however, to make particular ar-
rangements for a carriage, and to take every precaution
to arrive at St. John's in season for the sceam boat.
From Montreal to Longueil 3 miles, Longueil to Cham*
bly 12, thenee to St. John's 15.
Chamblt*
This is a small village. Near the middle of it stands the
old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an old
square building, perhaps ISO feet on each side, with bas-
tions at the corners, but incapable of withstanding heavy
cannon.
This fort was taken by Msyors Brown and Livingston,
in 1755, who were sent out with a strong detachment by
Gen. Montgomeiy, while he was besieging St. John's.
The garrison, being very feeble, surrendered.
St. John's : see page 188.
In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here for
a year and a half.
Canals have been proposed from the Sorel River to the
St. Lawrence ; one from Pointe Le Mule, opposite Isle
aux Nois, over low fine country to the St. Lawrence, 26
miles, for £30,000. The difficult navigation which it
would avoid is considered half the voyage to Whitehall.
Passage from St. John's to Whitehall.
In 1825 a steam boat left St. John's Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday, at 2 P. M. $6.
St. John's.
Isle aux Noiz 10 miles.
Rouse's Point 11
Chazy 12
Plattsburgh 15
Port Kent. 8
Burlington''' 10
Charlotte, Essex 15
Port Clinton 10
* From this town there is a fine road to B^ton.
^
k'-^l' Ai .irji^-tiUi,:'
le intei'.
icular ar-
{recaution
It.
[o Cham-
itands the
is an old
with las-
ling heavy
ivingston,
cbment by
St. John's.
£d here for
iver to the
iposite Isle
wrence, 26
1 which it
^hitehaU.
[ALL.
y, Wednes-
10 miles.
.11
.12
.15
. 8
.10
.15
.10
. -.-'.<
ston.
ihe
XT9.il
,• . ...
TUAV£r.LKIt ttfii
, Point..,. .•,•.,..... 4f
'.Alt. ..«5
' the princ'pul places on the l«k«, se(h Xha l« 1 the neslcrn short. Tiiv_, rj' • ■ .j
tfjtn^m, and present an aspect less, v ni
iurr^undinjj; scenca.
.oukiriji back on Tieondarojyi froin t ; ;«•-
'-■rr appears at fthoul niru inilm dintr* . an
!ffl to tktt Scotch Carw*. in ?»:'- fo •■i
'. j» are principally ctcftped i^f
' !i:.ain, nlopaif t>kf il. T
jy: up the paspfi^'^'- of tb** '•i' , »<.i,> .. w.-i-,* •> ♦' ^i
••<*: Icff.
At tH« tlKWC wllfrW 0*»
folinwing nr - ''wi' . •' »^* ilM«
: ''ifc bag^ogt.. h.>»j»iii»J fm nlture, sn.k park of artHKljr^
• s, ami provisions, embarked under Colonul Lcn^f,
tr fctrong convoy, m 200 batteaux anJ five armed ^1*
The main army went via (/wrleton, ■j^itb '-■>'
itr at.'ht; !ua«ftt lodcpendenc,
ic attpjjtios'. ..(" the Bi't-'ivh, who .lonu ber'
.., . Gen. Vrazoir, wiJ;^i ;■ ^ ?•»*■''•: -n^* ?vvr'i"
&s;i,4i\sfcl.b«hinti b^tfij f
«*tt! through the h«»n«w » "
t '■. lib gun i'^'j'V''
Ikn .,..-., ,.:w>k two {^tiiiilfd^. ••
cttfj !S€t fire to tbiB r€»f r :.
• THg- 5"*- '■ ■
* ■• :. iiifii. from Vi : :<]«';>* y con
tf9' .; „ jnto fo«u : i#een twu
I3ini«.» of- mountaiaii., >'!?■ 'I • .^ present per*
penmcular prtK;Jp'u ts j and » . »t ivater, appearsr
almost tncsrely occupied b> ■ ^^^Ifjw of the hrtg^*-
tiii^j.., I
i
J,
r
Port Hem
Chimney
TiconderG
Whitehall
For the
On leai
narrower,
are seen (
of Putnai
the surroi
Lookini
fiance app
the left t
which are
mountain
close up t
the left.
At the
in 1777, 1
retreat.
Theba
stores, a
under sti
leys. T
Clair at
general i
A house
ed the a
suit. Gi
Reidesel
cut thro
Creek,
flotilla,
cans set
Fourt
traets
ranges <
pendicu
almost
TUAVELLKR. asli
Dalliba's Works, ) ^ .,
Chimney Point 13
Ticonderoga 15
Whitehall 25
For the principal places on the lake, see the Indei.
On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes raucU
narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scoiehjfarms
are seen on the western shore. They are in the township
of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild than most of
the surrounding scenes.
Looking back on Ticonderoga from the south. Mount De-
fiance appears at about nine miles distance, descending on
the left to the Scotch farms, in the township of Putnam,
which are principally cleared land. Beyond it is another
mountain, sloping like it. Ticonderoga here appears to
close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's Point on
the left.
At the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticonderoga
in 1777, the following arrangements were made for the
retreat.
The baggage, hospital fbrnlture, sick, park of artillery,
stores, and provisions, embarked under Colonel Long,
under strong convoy, in 200 batteaux and five armed gal-
leys. The main army went via Castleton, with St.
Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, and the
general rendezvous was at Skeenesborough (Whitehall.)
A house which took fire on Mount Independence attract-
ed the attention of the British, who soon began the pur-
suit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers and light troops, with
Reidesel behind him, followed by land ; while Burgoyne
cut through the boom and bridge, and sailed up Wood
Creek. His gun boats and ships overtook the American
flotilla, took two galleys, blew up three, and the Ameri-
cans set fire to the rest and fled on to Fort Anne.
The Four Channels.
Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly con-
tracts itself into four narrow passages, between two
ranges of mountains, which in some places present per-
pendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, appears
almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of the bright>
X2
I
J
22jS
THE NOllTHERN
est green, through which the channels wind with beauti<
ful serpentines. The scene is highly picturesque, the
rocky points on both sides being so abrupt as to seem as
if forcibly parted by an earthquake, or a very swift and
powerful stream. Every distant object is entirely shut
out, and the banks present a striking aspect of wildness
and seclusion.
Some distance beyond, where the creek enters a small
tract of level ground, it passes between two remarkable
rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, about 50 feet
high, like great natural bastions erected to guard the
straitis.
A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed,
with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level
ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern
side, the tow path accompanies the bank. \
South Bat
opens to the south, and runs down five miles between
high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to
the east, Communicating with it by a little channel some-
times scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau took
this route with his army, in going towards Fort Edward,
in 1755.
Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On the
eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural ice
house, about four miles off.
The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face of
a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a
considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so re-
gular as to seem a work of art, although probably made
by the falling of a mass of the rock.
Distant mountains open to the view, in front, as we
proceed, with ranges of willows on the shore.
(A precipice ou the east is a good mark of the approach
to South Bay, in going up.)
The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two very
short turns, through which the passage requires a very
exact helm.
East Bay
jstrikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, along
a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill will be observed at
TRAVELLEK.
227
jeauti-
le, the
lem as
ift and
iy shut
ildness
a small
arkable
50 feet
aird the
two very
a very
es, along
erf ed at
a little distance on the right, which rises above Whitehall,
and makes the approach to that place quite picturesque.
WHITEHALL.
On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a
battery, and in the town a block house. Numerous boats
and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as
the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at the bridge,
where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky channel.
Inns. Rock's and Wing's.
The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's
right wing, while be was preparing to march towards Sa-
ratoga; his centre was formed by Gen. Frazer; the
Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the river of Castle-
ton ; and the Hessians were at the bead of East Bay.
Roads. Stage coaches go south, on the arrival of the
steam boat, in two directions ; one on each side of Wood
Creek and the Hudson River. That on the west side is
recommended to those who are going directly on to Alba-
ny, as it passes along the route of the Champlain Canal,
by the " Surrender Ground,'' and near the " Battle Ground
of Bemis's Heights." Coaches also go to the Springs.
Road to Boston, 178 m.
through Walpole : See " Roads.^ *
To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson, 79 m.
West Granville 11 miles.
East Granville 3
Hebron 9 \
Salem S
Cambridge 16
Pittstown 13
Lansiugburgh 10
Troy 3 (see page 52)
Albany 6 (see page 42)
To Albany, on the west side of the Hudson, 68 m.
Fort Anne 12
Fort Edward 9
Here a Coach passes to Saratoga Springs,
Fort Miller 8
Schuylersville •• . . • 6
1438
THE NORTHERN
British Lines 7 (see page 12S)
Passing Bem/Ws Heights,
Stillwater 8
Borough ^. 3
, Waterford 8i
Mohawk Bridge 1 (see page 57)
The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek,
which is dammed and used for a canal, to which its nar-
rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. This
creek is famous in the histories of the operations in this
region during the revolutionary and French wars; and after
repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by which it
was obstructed, it bore the expeditions against Canada, &c.
which often passed by tbis route, from the days of Queen
Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though rough; and there
is little cultivation off the road.
Haifa mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood Creek
makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that there is
but little space for the road between. Here Col. Sterry
was overtaken, in the retreat from Ticonderoga, in 1777,
by Burgoyne^s troops, and an engagement took place, me-
morials of which are occacionally found in the soil to
this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a quar-
ter of a mile from the stage house, stood Fort Anne, in
the revolution.
The old fort of the same name, built many years pre-
viously, and known in the French wars, was about half a
mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a little
east of the road, where some remains of the old entrench-
ments are still to be seen.
The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two miles
south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are traced
about three-fourths of a mile, near the present road, to a
wood. It was formed of logs, and found necessary to
render the country passable with his cannon and baggage
wagons. The labour necessary for its formation super-
added to that of clearing Wood Creek of the obstructions
which Gen. Schuyler had thrown into it after the retreat
of the Americans, was one great cause of the delay of
the British army, on this part of the road— a delay which
allowed the people time to resume their spirits, and the
officers to layplans; obtain resources, and prepare for the
TRAVELLER.
229
sanguinary scenes at Bemis's Heights and the surrender
at Saratoga.
French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, with a
succession of high grounds in the direction of South Bay,
Lake Geoi^e, &c.
About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old
tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated
The Murder of Mxss McCrea.
Miss McCrea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In
the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to
whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the
English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was in-
vested with a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's
army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake,
and while the British were approaching, he sent a party
of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to
him, that he might secure her safety. She was very un-
willing to leave her father's house, and hesitated some
time before she consented to his request. She at length,
however, set out to join her lover, and proceeded with
her savage conductors on the road towards Fort Anne.
They had gone only half a mile when the Indians stopped
to drink at a spring which still flows by the way side ;
and while here were met by another party of Indians des-
patched to hasten them on. Those who came last, ima-
gining that they had a right to undertake the convoy of
the lady, as well as to receive the reward which might be
expected on her safe arrival, attempted to take her under
their charge ; but the others, being determined not to
give her up alive, bound her to a tree that is yet standing
near the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets.
Locks of her hair were borne to her lover, to prove that
the Indians had performed what they considered their
duty to their employer.
This story rang through the country ; and it was re-
ported that Gen Burgoyne encouraged or at least permit-
ted the murder. In indignant terms he denied the charge ;
and there appears no probability that he had the least
knowledge of it before it happened. He, however, was
justly chai^eable with a great offence against humanity,
in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose barbarity
230
THE NORTU£UN
he could never be sure of restraining, if ever so much in-
clined to do it. With many persons, in all parts of the coun-
try, the melancholy death of this unhappy young lady
raised a lively sentiment of horror against their enemies,
and no doubt animated many a soldier with a fresh spirit
of resistance.
Captain Jones, the unfortunate lover, is said to have
led a heart-broken life for a few years, and at length to
have fallen a victim to melancholy and self-reproach.
Fort Edward.
This village was built in the neighbourhood of a fort
raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of this
point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman, after
Gen. Lyman, of whom we have already had occasion to
make honourable mention at Lake George. This spot was
formerly called the First Carrying Place, being the point
where, in the expeditions against Canada, the troops,
stores, &c. were landed and taken by land to Wood Creek,
a distance of 12 miles, where they were again embarked.
[Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill,
are worthy of particular attention, and are seen to great
advantage from some parts of the bank. The whole de<
scent of the river at thb place is about 75 feet.
Fort Miller.
The village still retains the name of a fort erected on
the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work
of insignificant size, situated on the bank of the river, and
near
Miller's Falls.
The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a bro-
ken channel. The falls were forinerly considered impas-
sable with safety, until General Putnam performed it while
stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war.
The Great Dam.
Above Fort Edward, a lai^e and expensive dam has
been built across the river, and a canal cut along the bank
to open a passage for boats. The dam is 900 feet long.]
TRAVELLER.
231
ftuch iii-
lie coun-
ing lady
enemies,
ish spirit
i to have
length to
lach*
nan, after
over a bro-
ered impas-
ned it while
ve dam has
ong the bank
) feet loDg.l
TOUR OP NEW-bNGLAND.
To Travellers going Eastward from J^Tew-York.
It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling
eastward to see the country, to determine on some plan
for his journey before setting out. * The mail coach goes
* The mail stage sets off for New-Haven every morning at
8 o'clock, from Jaques's stage office, in Courtlandt-street,
passing through Harlem on Manhattan Island, West Chester,
East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, and Rye, in the
state of New- York, and Greenwich. Stamford, Darien, Nor-
walk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratfora, Milford, and Orange, in
Connecticut.
In Harlem, the road passes near the East River, and
gives a view of Hurl Gate.
Beyond Morrissania, the estate and mansion of the Hon.
Gov. Morris is seen on the right : one of the finest for tasteful-
ness and extent in this part of the country. ( See BtUtle of
White Plains f page 29.)
In the town of Horseneck, 33 miles from New- York, is a
steep hill descending towards the north, down which General
Putnam once effected his escape from several British officers
and soldiers during the revolutionary war, when returning from
a scout. He drove his horse hastily down the rocky hifl side,
a little east of the road, and near the fence, and saved so much
distance as to elude his pursuers.
West Chester, and the country about it, were at that pe-
riod neutral ground ; and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made
them the scene of his popular tale — " the Spy."
In the town of Fairfield, 53 miles from New- York, a
mile or two before reaching the village, is a low. level piece
of ground, on the right hand side of the road, which was for-
merly an almost impenetrable swamp, and at an early period
of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It was
hither that Uie remains of a powerful and terrible nation of In-
dians, called Pequods, having fled from their country about
New-London and Groton, after the destruction of their
fort at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 1636, were either kiUed
or taken captive. This was their last and total defeat, and
extinguished their name as a nation. Much of the ground
has been cleared in modem times ; and some reliques have
^een found to confirni the traditions of the neighbourhood.
232
THE NORTHERN
every morning to Connecticut, and onward ; but this is
not the most agreeable route. Steam boats go from New-
York to the following places on the northern shore of
Long Island Sound : Norwalk, Stamford, Stratford, New-
Haven, Connecticut River, (and up that to Hartford,)
New-London, (and Norwich,) Newport, (and Provi-
dence.)
ij..i
EAST RIVER.
Leaving New- York In any of the East River steam
boats, the traveller has Brooklyn on the right, (now the
third town for size in the state, and strictly a suburb of
the capital.)
The Navt Yard, just beyond.
The Rail Road, for ships, is above, on the west 8i4e.
The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a
little beyond.
At Hell Gate, numerous objects present themselves
on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west,
is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white Block House on the
hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the water;
and a number of handsome country houses along the
green shore on the left. The surface is broken by seve-
ral rocks, and by the as;itation of the water, particularly
at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little north of the
fort, and the rapid current on the opposite shore known
by the name of the Hog*s Back. In coming from the
north, the first view of New- York is here presented, be-
tween the western shore and BlackwelPs Island, with a
shot tower on the right.
' ' N^w-Haven.
This is decidedly one of the most beautiful towns in
the United States. The soil is not very good, and the
On the east side of Housatonnuc, or Stratford River, a mile
or more above the bridge, was once a fort, built by the In-
dians of the place, to secure themselves against the Mohawks,
who had subjugated most of the country on the western side
of Connecticut River before the arrival of the English.
TUA\£LL£U.
'23'S
i this is
nNew-
»bore of
d, New-
irtford,)
I Provi-
themseWes
ound, west,
jouse on tbe
the water;
s along the
ten by seve-
particularly
lorlb of the
bore known
ng from the
resented, be-
iland, with a
d River, a mile
ailt by the In-
tbe MobawKs,
be western side
English.
situation is low ; the town (or rather citj) is laid oat in
squares, with straight and broad streets, and the elevated
ground in the neighbourhood renders the approach Terj
fine from almost every direction. It stands at the head
of a spacious bay, with a light house on the eastern point,
a small fort on the right shore, another on Prospect Hill,
and two Bluffs, called East and West Rocks, 2 or 3 miles
behind the town. A more distant peak is seen between
them, which is Mount Carmel. The steam boats stop at
the wharf, which is three-quarters of a mile long, or at
the bridge ; and in either case, carriages will be found in
waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, which
is more than a mile distant.
On the shore, near the bridge, is a large building, in*
tended for a steam boat betel, but not open for visiters
for want of encouragement. The streets of the town are
regular and pleasant, forming squares, one of which is a
green, surrounded by rows of elms, with three churehei
and the State House in the middle, and the College build
ings occupying the western side, presenting a scene pro*
bably not equalled by any town of this size in the United
States. The abundance of fine trees, the neatness and
beauty of the dwellings^ the good society of the place,
and the distinguished position it holds as a seat of learn-
ing, render New*Haven the resort of great numbers of
strangers during the travelling season, and the temporary
residence of not a few.
There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and
% number of Boarding Schools for young ladies, with in-
structers in every branch of useful and ornamental edu-
cation.
Yale College. This institution, however, is the
principal object which will attract the attention of the
stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at
Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few
years, permanently fixed in this town. The first building
vras of wood, and stood near the corner of College and
Chapel streets. There are now four buildings for stu-
dents, each containing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with a Philo«
sophical chamber and apparatus, and a Lyceum, with re-
citation rooms and the library. In the rear are the Col-
lege Kitchen and Commons* Hall, in a small building,
Y
S34
THE NORTHERN
with the splendid Mineralogical Cabinet above, which is
the finest collection of the kind in the United States,
lately purchased from Colonel Gibbs, of New- York. In
another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where Pro-
fessor Silliman delivers his lectures. The institution
contained 373 scholars in 1825.
Next north of the college is the house of President
Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in the
town*
The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col-
lege-street.
The New Burtino Ground is across the street from
the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of
land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great
number of beautiful ornaments, of different designs. It
is considered the most beautiful cemetery in this country.
The Old Burtino Ground was in the middle of the
green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are
to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size,
which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the re-
gicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there is
much doubt on the subject. (See Stiles* Judges.)
There are pleasant rides in various directions from
New- Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of
the country favourable. The two mountains command
extensive views, and though the access is rather fatiguing,
the excursion is recommended to those who are fond of
such enterprises.
The Judges' Cave is on the summit of West Rock,
about a mile north of the bluff; and the way to it leads
near Beaver Pond, and Pine Hock, (on the south side of
which is a small cave,) tben between Pine and West
Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path
across a brook ; and a guide may usually be obtained at
a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path to
the summit.
The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large
rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion.
It is small, and entirely above ground, with a rude rock,
like a column, on each hand. That on the right contains
this inscription,
" Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God,"
THAVELLBU.
235
'bich IS
States,
rk. In
re Pro-
titution
resident
I in the
, of Col-
set from
jxtent of
; a great
ligns. It
country,
lie of the
there are
imall size,
of the re-
1 there is
9.) ^
ions from
[le face of
) command
r fatiguing,
ire fond o£
Vest Rock,
to it leads
ulh side of
and West
, by a path
obtained at
jrse path to
seven large
convulsion.
I rude rock,
ght contains
to remind the visiter that the place once afibrded shelter
to Gofle and Whalley, two of the judges of king Charles
the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted them-
ttelvfcs for some time in this solitary pUce. They were
supplied with food by a family which resided near the
foot of the mountain, and a little boy was despatched for
them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a rock,
without knowing what cause he was subserving. The
hermits were visited one night by some wild animal, pro*
bably a wolf or a catamount, whose eyes they saw staring
in at their door, which so terrified them that they fled
to their friends, supposing it to have been a lion.
The place commands an extensive view upon the coun*
try helow, with a large tract of Long Island and the •
Sound.
The Manufactory op Muskets is 2 miles north of
New-Haven, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at
the foot of East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit-
ney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Jin. The
machinery is carried by the water of a small river, and
the houses of the overseers and workmen make a pretty
appearance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all
their parts, many of them for the arsenals of the United
States. It is designed to make the arms so much alike,
that the parts may be applied indifferently to all that pro-
ceed from the same manufactory. It is not found possi-
ble, however, to accomplish this object to the full extent
desired.
Road to Miodletown.
-,-■•,-,■■.■
Nortbford, 10
Durham, 8
Middletown, 6
(For a description of this beautiful town, see beyond.)
Beyond New-Haven a few miles lies a cluster of
Islands called the Thimbles, famous in the traditions of
the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the ancient resort
of Captain Kidd, a notable pirate, whose treasures of solid
gold, it is still believed by some, are concealed somewhere
hereabouts. Within this labyrinth of islands and head-*
83e
TH£ NORTUEUN
landf is a little secluded bay or inlet, capable of cou-
taining only one vessel nt a time, which bears the name
of Kidd*s Harbour. There is also his island, his chair,
and bis ' punch bowl.' There are several houses along the
shore, within a few miles of this place, which are resorted
to during the warm season by a considerable number of
visiters (torn the interior, f -r the sake of bathing in the
salt water, and eating lobsters, black fiah, and oysters.
In September and October, ducks may be found in great
quantities near the shore, and black fidi are caught in
considerable numbers ; but the best fishing is further east,
at New-London, Newport, &c. It is probable, that with-
in a few years, more extensive accommodations will be
foup' at t|ie places of resort along the coast, and that the
number of visiters will be proportionately increased.
The principal of them are Sachem's Head, Guilford, East
GuUlord.
[As it is necessary in a work like this, we have under*
taken to pursue some definite course, and to .mention
places and objects in the order in which they will proba-
bly occur to most travellers. We shall here leave Long
Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only
refer the reader to the close of the book for an account of
the coast beyond, and the following sutijects and places :
New-London, the Thames, Norwich, the Mohegans, the
Pequods, Sassacus's Fort, Mystic Fort, the Narragansett
shore, Newport, Providence, &c. See Index,]
I :*.
SAYBROOK.
■; • ; > i- . •
At this place was the first settlement made by Euro-
peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest
solicitation of many of the rightful proprietors of Uie
country on its banks, who had been despoiled of their
possessions by their formidable enemies, the Pequods.
The River Indians, as our old histories usually denomi-
nate the former, twice made application to tl^e English at
Plymouth and at Boston, to obtain settlers upon their na-
tive soil, offering to ^ve them land eqough, and to pay
20i9 beaver s]dns annually for the benefitof their society.
But the undertakipg if as cpnsidered too haj^ardouji, and
it ^as not until the year 1635, wl)Qn the Sliitcb at New-
I
grjff T /,
^^N.
1
P?^
// / / "-i) y
iva
fi
/r
J^
/- \
,to
ll
Colchei
,/J
iJfaddkm
Scv)
i>roo/^
emrjfead
-6:
^
D. S.rhroop. SclTTT
^
'PRAVELLER.
X37
York showed a determination to seize upon the country,
which they claimed ae their own, that a small detachment
of men wai sent from Button by water to prepare for
opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort at
the mouth of the river. Their haete wai soon justified
bj efenti : for immediately after their landing, a Dutch
▼eiiel entered, and proceeding up to Hartford, landed a
body of men, who soon established themielves in a fort
they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained firom Pe-
qood usurpers.
The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant
made to Lord Say Mid Seal, Lord Brook, and otoers,
by George Fenwick, Esq. who fled to this country with his
nnily. The old fort stood near the present fort hill,
upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the
waTos ; and the ground immediately behind it was after-
wards occupied by the fields and habitations of the colo-
nists. It was expected from the first, that the situation
would render the place a great city ; and after the fear
of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula,
which bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out
with the greatest regularity into fields of an equal size,
except such parts as were reserved for the erection of
public buildings. Yale College was placed here for a
time, and a great number of emigrants were once col-
lected in England, and prepared for a voyage to this
place. Some persons of high rank and importance were
among them, and it is a well-authenticated fact, that Oli-
vet Cromwell had determined to embark in the enterprise,
and was onoe on the very eve of quitting England for
ever, when some unforeseen occurrence prevented him.
The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented to
a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of
the river, have efibctually prevented the expectations of
the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; and no re-
mains of their works can now be discovered, except in
the rectangular form of the fields, and the cellars of some
of their dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, the
foundation stones of \vhich have since been employed in
building the neighbouring fences. One of the lai^est ex-
cavations is said to have been the cellar of the old col-
lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked
Y 2
H'iS
THE NORTHERN
Tvithin a short distance of the fort by the Pequods, but
they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which
leads from the main land.
CONNECTICUT RIVER.
The shores present a continued succession of hilly and
picturesque country, with few interruptions of level land,
from a little above Saybrook as far as Middletown* The
roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the culti-
vation of many mountainous tracts ; yet there are farms
enough to give a considerable degree of softness to the
scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, min-
gling with little patches of cultivated ground, and the ha-
bitations scattered along the river, is very agreeable, ehii
often affords scenes highly picturesque and delightful.
Essex, or Pettipaug,
7 mUes from Saybrook,
is a small village, situated on the ascent and summit of
a handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or
two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position.
Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides
the river and gives it an unusual breadth.
During the late war with (ireat Britain, this place was
taken by the enemy, who came up the river in launches,
and taking the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town
for a few hours.
Some distance above this place the channel lies so near
the eastern shore, that the steam boat passes almost under
the trees by which it is shaded.
Joshua's Rock is on the same side of the river, a little
below Brock way's Ferry. It is said to have derived its
name from a son of Uncas, Sachem of the M ohegans, (see
J^Torwichf) who, according to a tradition current in the
neighbourhood, being once closely pursued by enemies,
threw himself from the top of the rock, and perished in
the river.'
TRAVELLER.
'2a»
iods, but
us 'which
hilly and
level land,
wn. The
the culti-
are farms
less to the
anks, min-
uid the ha-
eeable, ^\
lightful.
summit of
and one or
lus position.
hich divides
is place was
in launches,
led the town
1 lies so near
ilmost under
river, a little
e derived its
)hegans, (see
rrent in the
by enemies,
perished in
Wapner*s Ferry, 13 mt/es from Sayhrook.
East Haddau.
The landing place here is rocky, mountainous and wild,
and a good specimen of a lai^e portion of the town to
which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine house built
among the rocks above, which adds much to the appear-
ance of the place.
This region is famous for a kind of earthquakes and
subterranean sounds, which were formerly common for
a short distance round. They gave occasion to many
superstitious reports, but have ceased within a few years.
They were called Moodas Jfoises, alter the Indian name of
the place.
Large beryls are found in the neighbourhood, and many
other minerals interesting to the scientific traveller.
Haddah
is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears
like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending
a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing
ground, &c. while a range of commanding hills rise be-
yond-
HiGGENVM
is one of the little landing places so numerous along the
river's course, 2 miles above Haddam.
Middle Haddam, 2 miles*
This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a
hill covered with orchards and house lots, and backed by
higher and wilder eminences. It is about 6 miles below
Middlctown.
Looking down the river from a little above this place, a
large and beautiful hill is seen, which afibrds the richest
scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being en-
tirely covered with fields and orchards. A large wooded
eminence is a little higher up, and several high hills, al-
most worthy of' the name of mountains, are visible in
the north.
3.40
THfi NORTHERN
The Narrows.
Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and fioMfy
between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some lung
past period, before which, there is every reason to believe,
the country for a great distance above was covered by a
lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, there is the
appearance of an old channel, where the water probably
ran, at a great height above its present level.
The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern
bank of the river, near two or three old houses. {See a
lUtte htyond.)
Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern
bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Sou*
heag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the
present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wethersfield.
The large buildings on the hill in Middletown belong
to Captain Partridge's Academy.
MIDDLETOWN !:-^*:r ■-
is beautifully situated on the western bank of the river,
where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth,
and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from
many points of view, it has the appearance of a small lake,
with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This is a most
agreeable residence for strangers, particularly for families,
during the pleasant seasons of the year, and will no doubt
be soon supplied with more numerous and extensive ac-
commodations.
The large hotel has recently been converted into a pri-
vate boarding house, by Mr. FranciSf and is very well
kept. Mrs. SujathePs and Mr, Boardman's (in the same
street,) are large inns.
stotU
tatioi
brickj
the c
wish
secon
colleg
size V
The
The Military and Scientific Academt of Capt.
Partridge.
This institution was removed hither in 1825, funds
being contributed for the erection of the buildings, which
consist of a principal one, 160 feet long:, 50 broad, and 4
19 about
TKAVELLEB.
241
I flows
DO lung
tieaeve,
ed by a
I is the
trobably
outhern
(See a
J25, funds
ngs, which
oad, and 4
stories high, with rooms for scholars ; a chapel with reci-
tation rooms above, both of stone ; and an eating hall of
brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza facing the parade. For
the convenience of the friends of students, who may
wish to take up their lodgings in the neighbourhood, the
second story is partly designed for their use. A new
college building is to be erected this year, of the same
size with the first.
The course of instruction resembles, in general^ that
pursued at West Point ; but it is not like that under the
patronage of the United States. The scholars wear the
dress of Cadets, and are regularly drilled to the use of
small arms and cannon. The regulations of the school
are on a military plan, sentinels are posted at the gatesi
and the scholars are rarely permitted to leave the yard.
From the top of the Chapel is a delightful view of a
large extent of country, highly varied by cultivation, as
well as the natural form of its surface. Mount Tom is
seen northward, and Indian bill, immediately west, de-
rives its name, as is supposed, from its having been a
watch post in ancient times.
The Quarries of Freestone,
on the opposite shore, have furnished a valuable building
material for some years, and have been worked to a con-
siderable extent.
Manhfactorics.
Cotton, Woollen, and a Rifle Manufactory, are near the
bridge at the south end of the street. Col. North's Pistol
Manufactory, is situated two or three miles west of the
town ; besides several mills, &c.
There are various pleasant rides in this neighbourhood,
particularly to two picturesque Water Falls in Middlefield.
In the direction of one of them is Laurel Grove, where the
road is shaded for near half a mile with those shrubs,
which, in the season, are covered with flowers.
The Lead Mine
is about two miles below the town, on the south shore of
242
THE NORTHERN
the river, accessible only on foot or in a boat, where are
several old shafts, which were sunk in the Revolutionary
war, in a slate rock. The ore is sulpburet of lead, in
veins of quartz, partly crystallized, and affording a few
specimens of fluate of lime, and other minerals.
The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham,
at the foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth working,
at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of peach bloom
of Cobalt may be picked up among the rubbish. Just
southerly from it is a very pretty water fall, about thirty
feet high.
A number of German families live in the neighbourhood ;
the descendants of miners, who came from Europe some
years ago to work the mine.
Upper Houses, \
a village of Middletown, 2 miles above.
From a hill 1 mile further is a very pleasant view to-
wards the south, presenting the river, with the meadow
and hills, as well as Middletown and the fine high grounds
in its rear. The small divisions of the soil and the den-
sity of the population, as well as the fertility of the
ground, and the frequency of school houses and churches,
here show one of those interesting and beautiful scenes
characteristic of Connecticut River, and which the travel-
ler will find repeated all along its course far into New-
Hampshire and Vermont.
RocKT Hill, 5 miles, a parish of Wethersfield. About
half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of
a hill, which commands a rich prospect of many miles of
the Connecticut Valley. Wethersfield lies in front, and the
variegated hills and plains around belong to numerous
townships on both sides of the river, enclosed by ranges
of distant high land, which direct the course of its chan-
nel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge of Tal-
cott mountain ; and the two h\v^ peaks in the north are
Mounts Tom and Holyoke, near Northampton, at the
distance of about 50 miles.
Wethersfield, 3 miles from Hartford. This place
hasa fine light soil, an extensive level, probably once the
bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of the
iiverj
of on
rious
laboui
the vn
Inns,
This
consider
at wbich
TheC
the stree
ancient
was amo
a conspic
of the to
course of
towards t
fpss than
TRAVELLER.
243
nver^s channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the culture
of onions, which are exported in great quantities to va-
rious parts of the country, the West Indies, &c. The
labour of this culture is performed almost exclusively by
the women and children ; and it is remarkable that the
men of the lower class are generally as imprudent and
idle, as their wives are industrious and economical. This
is not said for the purpose of scandalizing, but with the
hope of improving them.
Wethersfield was one of the three earliest settlements
made by white men in Connecticut : or rather it may
strictly claim the precedence of all, for although houses
vrere first built here, as well as at Hartford and Windsor
in 1635, three or four men came to this place the year pre*
vious, and spent the winter. The English received their
lands from the original river Indians, and acknowledged
their right of soil, although this tract of the country was
found by them in the power of the Pequod nation, who had
obtained it by force ; and they succeeded in re-establish-
ing the former, for which object they had been invited
and received with cordiality. Depredations were com-
mitted on their settlements for the first few years ; but as
they were done by the Pequods, the distinction of that
nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. Mason, in 1636, put an
end to them entirely, and this part of the river was never
afterwards made the theatre of war. ■-.
HARTFORD,
■J
iV.-.
Inns. Bennet's GofTee House, MpH^nh, Ripley's.
This is the semi-capital of the state,'luid a place of
considerable business, as well as one ot the great points
at which the principal roads concentrate.
The Charter Oak. In the lower part of the town, in
the street which runs east from the south church, is the
ancient and respectable seat of the Wyllys family, which
was among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made
a conspicuous figure in th^ history of the state, as well as
of the town, by supplying the Secretary's office for a long
course of time. Col. George \Vyllys, who left the office
towards the end of the last century, was elected to it no
Ip?s than sixty-two years in succession by the freemen of
244
THE NORTHERN
Connecticut, and performed the duties, at every session
during the whole tine, both regular and adjourned. The
house if a respectable old building, in a fine situation,
with a garden behind it having a fish pond in the middle.
The first house built on the spot stood a little north-east
of the present one, as may be seen by the cellar, and was
calculated for defence against the Indians, but was burnt
down. The principal object of curiosity here is, however,
the fine old oak, which stands on the street in front. It is
said to have been a forest tree before the land was cleared,
yet it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a bole in its
trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir
Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there
it remained for some years.
When the charter had been delivered up, and the OfH-
cers were assembled at the inn, which was in Mslin-
street, opposite the middle church, they produced it in
the evening upon a table in the front room ; and the
weather being warm, the windows were left open, a
guard being stationed at the door. At some preconcerted
signal, some persons in the street taking off their jackets,
and winding them in their hands, threw them at the can-
dles and extinguished them ; and on relighting them the
charter was missing. This interesting document is still
preserved in the office of the Secretary of the state.
The ,^8ylum for the educatmi of the DeaJ and Dumb is
about a mile west of the town, on Tower Hill. It was the
earliest institution of the kind in America, and is under
the direction of a board of trustees, who publish annual
reports of its condition. Mr Gallaudet, a gentleman who
was sent to Europe to qualify himself for the purpose, is
principal, and Mr. Le Clerc, a favourite pupil of the Abbe
Sicard of Paris, occupies the next station. He is a man
of superior talents although deaf and dumb.
The principal building is large, ornimented with pilasters,
and surrounded by a garden and pleasant grounds ; but
some change is judged proper in its arrangements. The
house of the superintendant is ne;«r o. ^ and the t. hole en-
joys a fine situation with a commanding prospect and a
healthy neigbourhood.
The stranger will rdceive uncommon gratification, from
II. visit (o this benevolent institution on the days appoint-
T11AV£LL£R.
245
session
. The
tuation,
middle,
rth-east
sind ivas
:is burnt
lOwevcr,
nt. It is
cleared,
ole in its
;vhen Sir
nd there
the OfS-
ill Mjiin-
ced it in
; and the
open, a
concerted
ir jackets,
,t the can-
them the
ent is still
tate.
I Dumb is
t was the
1 is under
sh annual
eman who
mrpose, is
f the Abbe
e is a man
h pilasters,
lunds; but
;nts. The
J Tvhole en-
pect and a
ation, from
rs appoint-
ed for the admission of visiters. The deaf and dumb are
generally remarkable for close observation, readiness of
apprehension, an eager thirst for knowledge, and a very
retentive recollection ; and as all their instruction is com-
municated through the sight, can be obtained only by the
strictest attention, and the abstraction of the mind from
every other subject, the appearance of a class absorbed
in their lesson is calculated to produce feelings of an un-
usual and highly interesting character.
Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language of
natural signs, by which he is able to communicate the
most necessary ideas on first arriving at the Asylum. He
is then taught the alphabet in use here, which is made by
the fingers of one hand ; after which the names of visible
objects are easily spelled, and the order of their letters
committed to memory. Absent objects and abstract ideas
arc communicated by many ingenious devices, which it is
impossible here to describe; and arbitrary signs are adopted
to represent such as may require them. Definitions are
very extensively resorted to; and they are always of
the most strictly logical character. Indeed the whole
system is one of the most complete and beautiful of the
kind ever formed on philosophical principles.
The number of scholars is generally about 70. Some
of them arc supported by a fund belonging to the insti-
tution, and others by the states of Massachusetts, New-
Hampshire, &c. Similar institutions exist in the city
and state of New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and one has
lately been provided for in Kentucky.
The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the city,
and makes a handsome appearance, being a stone building
150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three
stories, and the main building 4. It is capable of con-
taining about 50 patients, and is warmed by flues. The
grounds connected with the institution include about 17
acres.
Washington College is sicuated west of the main street,
in the south part of the town. It is an Episcopal institu-
tion, and has at present two stone buildings erected : one
for the students, 150 feet long, 4 stories high, with
accommodations 'for 96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has
!\lro rooms for recitation, the library, &c. The college
Z •
246
THE NORTHERN
bills are $52 50 per annum in all ; and the atnd^nts
board in private families at the rate of $1 50 per week.
Remarks to the Traveller at Hartford.
From Hartford there are stage coaches running in
various directions : north, one on each side of Con-
necticut River ; north-eastf to Boston ; east^ to Provi-
dence ; south, to New-Haven and New- York, (besides
the steam boats to the latter place ;) west, to Litchfield*
and Poughkeepsie ; and north-west, to Albany.
The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, (20
miles,) and Worcester, but is otherwise very uninterest*
ing and quite hilly. (See next page.)
The traveller in New- England is advised to take the
route up Connecticut River, which is the most fertile,
wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to return
by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the route
we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary from it
as he pleases. He will find such information as this little
volume is able to afford him by referring to the index.
The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Valley
is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger has
seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he will
learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the beauty
of their cultivation degenerates for several hundred miles
northward. The whole country is thickly populated:
neat and beautiful villages being met with at invervals of
a few miles ; and the general intelligence derived from
universal education gives an elevated aspect to society.
The accommodations for travellers are generally very
comfortable, and sometimes uncommonly good and ele-
gant ; the scenery is ever new and varying ; many places
have traits of interest in their history ; and the communi-
cation is easy, from many points of the route, with the
principal places on the east and west. Besides all this,
* At the Foreign Mission School at Cornwall, Connecticut,
there were, in 1825, 7 Sandwich Islanders, 3 Iroquois, 3 Choc-
taws, 3 Chinese, 2 Senecas, 2 Cherokecs, 2 Chippcwas, 2
Osages, 1 Tuscarora, I Oneida, 1 Mohegan, 1 Narragansett,
I Portuguese, 1 Jew, and 2 Americans. Total, 83.
TRAVELLER.
247
the roads are peculiarly fine, for they generally run along
the river's bank, which is almost without exception level
and pleasant, and formed of a soil well fitted to the pur-
pose.
The western side of the river is generally to be pre-
ferred ; but as there are good roads on both sides, and
some villages and other objects worthy of equal notice
on the eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to
be met with ev^ /y few miles, it will be agreeable occasion-
ally to cross and recross. Those who travel along the
course of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go up
on one side and return on the other. This is the most di-
rect route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New-
Hampshire. Those who go to Boston will pass through
Worcester.
Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-Eng-
land. The country around it is rich and variegated, and
the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great
credit to the taste as well as the wealth of its inhabitants.
Brick is extensively used in building. The court house,
bank, &c. stand on the principal street ; and east of it the
county house and the building of the
American Historical Society.
This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas,
many years a printer in this place, for the truly impor-
tant purpose of preserving every thing relating to the his-
tory, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it a
donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 8000 vo-
lumes, with many files of newspapers ; and built at his own
expense the handsome edifice in which it is deposited.
Many interesting curiosities have also been collected
here from all parts of the country, but the institution has
not funds to support a keeper, and the cabinet has not
(unless, perhaps, recently) been opened to the public.
The building cost about $3000. It contains the following
apartments : library, in the rear of the second story and
cabinet in front ; below are the keeper^s room and two
others.
[From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles; East Brook-
field, 7; Brookfield, 3; Ware Manufactories, 5; ^eU
chertown, 10 ; Northampton, 15.] /, .
24d
TUB NOKTHBRN
RovTB UP Connecticut River.
Leaving Hartford,
The State Arsenal is seen on the right hand, a mile
from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed.
[East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil,
but the street, as well as that of East Windsor, next
north of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road
crosses Podunk River, by a small bridge, about four miles
from Hartford, on the north bank of which, on the left
hand, was once the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk
Indians, who had their settlements on this winding stream,
and some of their broken implements are occasionally
found in the soil. During the life of Eliot, the Indian
Apostle, he requested that the Sachems of this na^cn
would meet him at Hartford, where he preached to the&i
the doctrines of Christianity, and invited them to receive
the salvation it offers to all mankind ; but, after a consul-
tation, they haughtily rejected his proposition. The
nation was so powerilil, that Uncas, Sachem of the
Mohegans, was once daunted by the show of their force,
although he had marched to attack them with his army,
and afterwards chose to iui jaidate them by the following
stratagem : he sent one of his Indians to burn a Pequod
wigwam, in the night, near the fort, who then fled, as be
was directed, leaving some Mohawk arms on the ground.
This made the Pequods believe that that nation had
leagued with Uncas, according to an intimation he had
before given, and they immediately sued for peace.
[Bissel's tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In going to the
ferry, the road passes the Bissel farm, one of the finest in
the country.]
Windsor.
It has been mentioned before that this place was settled
as eariy as 1635. A few months after the building of
the fort, (probably a block house,) the Dutch garrison
at Hartford made a secret march against it, expecting
to take it by surprise ; but on arriving at the place they
found reason to give up their enterprise, and returned
without firing a gun. The country was formerly very
TUAVELLER.
24&
yopulous in Indians, the six miles square of which the
town was formedy and which extended on both sides of
the river, containing ten separate sachemdoms, or petty
Indian tribes.
There is a school establbhed in this town on the Fellen-
berg plan, in which agriculture is taught both theoreti-
cally and practically, a good farm adjoining it being open
to the examination and experiments of the students.
The seat of the late Chief Justice Oliyer Ellsworth
stands on the east side of the street, above the town, nine
miles from Hartford. It is distinguished by columns, and
surrounded by trees. He was born in a house opposite.
He was in Europe as minister for the United States to
France.
After turning a corner a little beyond this place, the
new road runs north by a tavern, while the old one, across
a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former is recom-
mended, as it passes for several miles along the bank of
Connecticut River. '
Warrrouse Point is seen on the east side. Here
vessels are built, and the place carries on a little trade.
5; . - i, SUFFIELD , .' ; "!■'■
is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the road, and
has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its vicinity, which
has been the resort of considerable company. The villi^e
street runs along the ridge of a long and beautiful hill,
with neat houses and white fences on both sides, and the
home lots sloping east and west towards the low ground.
Some of the houses are large and elegant.
SuFFiELD Springs. About a mile south-west of the
street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphurous qualities.
A house has been built there about 20 years, which has ac-
commodations for 50 persons, with baths of different de-
scriptions. The spring is in swampy land, and its quali-
ties are considered valuable, particularly in cases of cuta-
neous disorders. The place is pleasant, in the midst of
a rich rural scene, with a pretty flower garden, &c. calcu-
lated to render it an agreeable resort, which it will) no
doubt, in due time become.
■*•»"
{)50
'i;H£ NORTHERN
If it i« intended to stop for the night irithin a ten
nilef , the best inn is the Columbian Hotel, at Springfield,
on the east side of the river. To reach it in going north,
tiun ofi' to the right through the meadows, some time
after passing Westfield River, which will lead directly to
the Springfield bridge. This is substantially built, and
well protected by a roof.
Springfield.
Columbian Hotel.
This is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a high
hill, the side of which is ornamented with fine buildings,
the residences of some of the wealthier inhabitants, and
the top occupied by the United States Arsenal. Thiai es-
tablishment occupies a large space of ground, and cb3i>
mands a fine view. The buildings containing the work
shops for manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, barracks,
&c. are surrounded by a high wall ; and the habitations
of the workmen, seen in several neighbouring streets, are
generally neat houses with small gardens. Some of the
principal buildings within the walls were burnt about two
years ago, but have since been rebuilt, viz. three build*
ings, each 120 feet long, one of which is a store house of
arms. Access may be obtained ; but it is unnecessary to
give a particular description of the establishment, as it
bears a general resemblance to most others of this kind in
the country, although one of the largest size. The num-
ber of workmen required, which is about 260, has a fa*
vourable effect un the business and prosperity of the place.
About 13000 muskets are made here annually, or 60 a
day. There were manufactured here, in 1825, 15000
muskets, 15000 screw drivers, 15000 wipers, 1500 ball
screws, 1500 spring vices, and 437 arm chests. Expen*
diture, ^179,983. The manufactories on Mill River, a
little south of the arsenal, are various and well worthy of
observation, at least, in passing. A road that runs along
the bank, passes a number of flour mills, &c. belong-
ing to individuals, besides the Upper, Middle, and Lower
Water Shops, connected with the arsenal. There are
three dams of hewn stone, and the buildings, in plan and
construction, are well calculated for service and duraWlt-
TRAVELLER.
361
a lew
igfield,
north,
le time
jctly to
It, and
[>fahigli
uildings,
ints, and
Thia OS-
ind cbaa-
the tvork
barracks,
ibitatiuns
leetsi are
tne of the
ibout two
•ee build-
B house of
ccssary to
lent, as it
lis kind in
The num-
, has a fa*
the place,
y, or 60 a
25, 15000
15U0 ball
. Expen*
I River, a
worthy oi
runs along
tc. belong"
and Lower
There are
in plan and
id dtiraWVi-
tj. The water shops contain in all 18 water wheels, 10
trip hammers, 28 forges, 9 coal houses, and have connect^
ed witli them several houses and stores.
The cown is ornamented with many fine elms and other
trees ; and there are two very handsome churches. It
was originally considered within the limits of Connecticut
Colony, but at length incorporated with Massachusetts.
A tribe of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but
being won over to King Philip's party, in 1675, they as-
sumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants who
were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the town.
In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked the
armoury, at the head of a strong parly of undisciplined
men. Gen. Shcpard, who had command at the place, at-
tempted to dissuade them firom their attempt, and finally
drove them ofi" by firing twice. The first shot, over their
heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the second drove off
the remainder, who, being about 200 revolutionary sol-
dierd, did not desist until they had lost a few of their men.
This was the first check the insurrection received, which
was put down without much subsequent trouble.
West Sprinofibld has a fine street, shaded with lai^e
elms, and containing some handsome houses. It is 26
miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from North-
ampton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow
of a hill a little north of the town, near a church, which
overlooks the river and an extent of country on each side,
with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. On Chicopee
River are some large CoWm Manufaetories.
South Hadlet Falls.
The village and locks are on the east side of the river.
The whole fall of the river at South Hadlcy is 52 feet,
but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2^ miles
long on the east side of the river, cut through a slate
rock for a considerable distance, and in some places
very deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks
near the tavern, and one above. The toll here is 90 cents.
They catch shad below the falls, though the number has
greatly diminished within a few years : now about 7000
annually. There is a ferry here, which is safe, but the
^vater runs rerv swffttv.
./.:*
si52
THE NORTHEUN
For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the roau
runs along the bank of the river, showing its banks, in
many places, roughened with rocks. Its channel is in
one place crossed by the dam, which turns the water into the
South Hadley Canal. The river makes an abrupt turn
some miles above, running between Mount Tom on the
south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; and when the
scene opens again, it discloses a charming and extensive
plain, formed of the meadows on the river's bank, and
evidently once the site of a large lake, when the water
was restrained by the barrier between the mountains.
This plain is joiie of the richest, and by far the most ex<
tensive and beautiful on the river.
Northampton. r- • j ^
This town is situated at the vtrestern side of the plain,
k milef from the river, and is a favourite place of resort
for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful of the
New-England villages, and is surrounded by a charming
country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which com-
mands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular,
but some of them shady and delightful in summer, being
also ornamented with many neat houses. It is a place
of considerable business ; and the soil makes valuable
farms.*
* Canal. — Mr. Kurd's estimate of the whole estpense of the
Hampshire and Hampden Canal is given as follows :
Canal |204,210
Feeders f 44,856
Cost of lauds and contingent expenses 18,500
Total expense - - . . $267,566
The length of the canal is 29 1-2 miles, divided into 56 sec-
tions of 168 rods each. It is now pretty well ascertained, that
the stock will be taken up, and that the canal will be made.
The structure of the country between this place and New-
Haven is peculiarly favourable to the construction of a canal.
The whole route of both canals, excepting a few miles near
New-Haven, is on the bottom of that lake, which, at some re-
mote period, extend,ed from Northfield nearly to New-Haven.
TRAVELLBU.
25a
be road
Miks, in
el is in
into the
ipt turn
(1 on the
vhen the
extensive
ank» and
he water
ountains.
most ex*
KouND Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the
town, where is the school of Messrs. Cogswell and Ban*
croft, for the education of boys. The branches of learn-
ing taught there are numerous, and there are instructers
for the French, Spanish, and German languages. Great
attention is paid to the hours of recreation as well as of
study, and the pupils are rarely to be seen out of the pre-
cincts of the school. The place itself is very pleasant :
commanding fine air, fine scenes, and perfect retirement.
On the eastern declivity of the hill stands the house of
the Stoddard family, an ancestor of whom was formerly
a man of great talents and influence in this part of the
country. In King- street, towards the north-east from that
spot, is standing the house in which President Edwards,
Sen. lived. President Edwards, Jun. and Dr. D wight were
born, and David Brainerd died. It is very old and shaded
by two elms. On the east side of the main street, just
south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor
Strong.
The Lead Mine.
In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from thi^
place, is a lead mine, which will be regarded with interest
by the curious and the scientific. A considerable part of
the road is good, and the place is wild and rough. The
following extract from the Journal of Science and the
Arts, furnishes all necessary information on the subject.
Southampton Lead J\lme*
This vein declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicu-
lar ; is 6 or 8 f(iBt in diameter, and traverses granite and
566
into 66 sec-
rtained, that
be made*
;e and New-
of a canal.
ir miles near
, at some re-
New-Haven.
—The whole region is alluvial — ^there are no primitive hills,
no granite ridges, no quagmires, to cut through, and no expen-
sive embankments will be necessary. The summit level is
only 134 feet above the Connecticut, and but little more than
200 feet above tide water. From New-Haven to Greenfield
will cost less than one million of dollars— a canal from
Boston to Greenfield, about the same distance, will cost three
millions. The former will pass through a secondary and com-
paratively level region — the latter must cross a pvhnitive,
mountainous coimtry. Eadem 'paprf\
2154
THE NORTHERN
other primitive rocks. It has been observed at intervals
from Montgomery to Hatfield, a distance of 20 miles ;
but it is very doubtful whether it continues, uninterrupt*
edly, the whole of that extent; indeed, from what I have
observed of other lead veins in the vicinity, I have some*
times been disposed to question, whether the veins ob-
served at many of these intervals, may not be totally dis-
tinct from one another. In Southampton, eight miles
south-west from Northampton, is the only spot where
this vein has been extensively wrought. In that place it
has been explored 30 or 40 rods in length, to the depth of
40 or 50 feet ; and (he galena, which is the principal ore,
has been found in masses from a quarter of an inch to a
foot in diameter. At the depth above mentioned, the
water became so abundant that it was thought adviseable
to abandon a perpendicular exploration, and to descend
to the foot of a hill on the east, nearly 80 rods from the
vein, and attempt a horizontal drift, or adit ; and ever
since its commencement, seven or eight years ago, the
working of the vein has ceased. This drift is now car-
ried into the hill, on an exact level, nearly 60 rods, and
the workmen told me, that not less than $20,000 bad
been expended upon it. The rocks that have been pane-
trated, reckoning from the mouth of the drift inwards,
are geest^ the red and gray slates of the coal formation,
with thin beds of coal, and mica slate, and granite alter*
nating. J*robably the fundamental deposite of granite is
now uncovered ; and the principal vein of galena cannot
be far distant. Several small branch veins of crystallized
quartz and'galena have been crossed, and several speci-
mens of these, collected by Dr. Hunt, were very rich and
beautiful ; the crystals of pure galena sometimes exhibit,
on their faces, insulated crystals of honey coloured car-
bonate of lime. The principal vein will be found not less,
I should judge, than 150 feet below the surface ; and when
that time comes, it is confidently expected, not only that
the proprietors will be rewarded for the great expense
they have incurred, but also, that many a rich specimen
will be found to ornament the mineral cabinets rf our
country, and to vie in beauty with the lead ores of £u«
rope.
The mouth of this drift is 4 qr 5 feet wide, and about
t intervals
20 miles;
I interrupt'
hat I have
lave some-
I veins ob-
totally dis>
ight miles
pot where
at place it
16 depth of
ncipal ore,
1 inch to a
lioned, the
adviaieable
to descend
9 from the
; and ever
rs ago, the
3 now car-
) rods, and
20,000 had
been pene-
ft inwards,
formation,
anite alter*
r granite is
ena cannot
crystallized
reral speci-
!ry rich and
nes exhibit,
loured car*
nd not less,
; and when
Dt only that
at expense
ih specimen
lets ci uur
pres of Eu-
y
and about
1 1
3
»1
IrUAVELLKU.
S5
au
'¥et above the surt'ace of tbo water. - The watm .
• fgb the whole length of it, w admit the \)mm,
• boat. The person ivishin;; tu explore this t-
fiuj.st fire a gun nt the entrarico, or ^> ' ■
ri sSedge ou the tintbers that sf»pi)orl the:
•tijiutes, he^will perceive a i^t'.ntle undulti?
aid fiO05i aftf-r, a boat adviun.ifig with li^'
■h'Cp
*o. As
t :)\vtr ; having seated lunisclf on i^
'« atj nnd provided h)TB«ie!f wsLh nn ar
he is prepared for his subterranean e>
rs the pas.sai^e, he will tor ^ mo?i*erfl fxjiierjcn*.!?,
'iiie he cijpfirii'.nofis, a Irltle diifirJi!?.) of h?eat?Mr:
>vj!1 sooh bt'coaie rtconcited to hi^ condJll; v-
pfissing about 100 (eM Jn tb© e.\cftv«tt<
0. the soil !s supported bf s^fftlxjrj' ^
lUv more rcoi.- '• • • •> ■.
.ack, 3^>- ■ ,,-:
I ';
'. turned, for tKe pur^^ti* jtihitoh
'6 reaches the end d" the driit, he iindahirn^etf tti
.trated ne?»rly 60 rods, rdsiefiy into-spiid nK;k.
irnhcra do not quit the drift when tbey i>'r»?i» «
m hns be*
iji^iiH ■ -'s^isc pu>:>«ing that way» wiI5
•c«*s tight ®r
Morxv Hru.
Tf^pf:.
•;€ ««eei)t ol. Uhs inuvHii.-iu hft
•>-• ' ;-% perhaps more »« *'.'«a 'r-^
■: -y, if w«^ except ib^t o*'
■'^ew*y<»?k. The height ?•» - -.
^ »s u {ijood carriajie roiMi f a house
inhabited
n is much
neighbour-
the barns
)uses, give
ilth. The
idley; ami
its.
'She Sugar Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form,
rising in front as we proceed. A fine view is enjoyed
from the summit, where has recently been erected a house
for visiters. Deerfield lies north of it about 3 miles ; and
the way by which we approach it, lies nearly along the old
road which led thither through the wilderness, in 1675,
when it was deserted by the settlers ; and Capt. Lothrop
was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers and wagoners,
to bring off the grain. At the foot of this mountain is
the small village of Bloody Brook, (improperly called
Muddy Brook,) and near the spot where a bridge crosses
the stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed by about 800
Indians. The place was then a marshy piece of ground ;
and some traces of the road, which was formed of logs,
are still to be seen, running through the fields without
crossing at the bridge. The convoy halted at this place ;
and the soldiers were generally engaged in gathering
grapes from the vines which ran on the trees, having left
their, muskets on the ground, when the Indians fired upon
them. Capt. Lothrop, who had often discussed the dif'
urent modes of fighting Indians, and was strongly
biassed in favour of imitating their own mode of warfiure,
itnmediately gave orders that the men should disperse,
and fire from beh'iid the trees; but tbey in this way lost the
opportunity of cutting their way through and making their
escape, which tbey might have done by keeping in a close
body ; and were all cut off except 8 or 10. This massacre
was one of the most calamitous which ever occurred in
New-England, taken into view with the small number of
inhabitants at the time : as the company consisted of
young men, from the principal families in the eastern
towns.
On the day following, Captain Moseley went up to bury
the slain, and found the plaee still occupied by Indians ;
but he forced his way through them, and obliged them to
abandon the ground. There is a stone now lying near
the fence, west of the brook, which was brought there
some years since for a monument, but not raised.
That part of the meadow we pass through in approach-
ing Deerfield was the scene of several skirmishes with the
Indians at different times, as the place was a frontier for
many yearrf, althoOgh it was twice burnt and deserled%
'ido
THE NOKTHEUN
DEEnriELD.
In 1704, Avliicli was the period of its last uestruc<
tioii, a iaigo body of Indians, led on by a few French-
men from Canada, came upon the town before day<
light. It was winter, and the snow crust was strong
enough to bear them j thry had secreted themselves on a
hill north-west from Dcerfield, and sent in a scout.
The houses were all entered but one, the inhabitants
made captives, and all, except a few, taken off to Canada.
One of the houses is standing at this day, a little north of
the church, and the hole may still be seen in the door,
which the Indians hacked with their tomahawks, and then
fired through, as well as the marks of several bullets in the
eastern room, one of which went through the neck of a
woman and killed her. A young man and his bride leapt
from a window of the chamber above ; and though the lat-
ter was unable to walk, in consequence of spraining her
ancle, the former fied, at her urgent request, and, meeting
with some troops on his way, brought them up in time to
drive off the Indians, but not to retake any of the captives.
A house next this was valiantly defended by seven men ;
and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, was taken,
and he and his family carried to Canada. Most of the peo-
ple were ransomed ; but a daughter of Mr. W. became
attached to the savage life, married a chief, and left child-
ren. Mr. Williamit', Missionary to the Indians at Green
Bay, is one of her dtscendants.
Some marks of the old picket may be traced in the rear
of the house, which is supposed to present the same
appearance as in old times, excepting that the kitchen, &c.
have since been built, and the (rent and rear have been
covered.
There is an academy in this town, but it is not in a
very flourishing condition.
East from this place, are several spurs projecting
IVom the hill, on one of which was formerly a fort, for
the protection of the Deerfield Indians against the Mo-
hawks.
Greenfield, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes on a
road from Boston to Albany. The country west is highly
TliAV£Lmi{.
261
picturesque. Just south of the town, Deerfield river appears
to have at some period formed a lake of some extenti
Yvith an outlet towards the east, where its channel may be
seen, with the place of an old cascade, and the rocks bored
out by the rushing of the water. The channel now lies
tbrough a deep cut between two hills.
Turner's Falls are on Connecticut River, two or three
miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to leave the road
to see them ; but they are of considerable height and beau-
ty, and hiHtory has rendered the place memorable, from
an important battle fought there towards the close of
Philip's war. The way by which we approach is nearly
over the same ground, where Capt. Turner marched, with
his body of men, in the year 1676, when he went to at-
tack a large body of Indians, assembled at an Indian
fort, a quarter of a mile above the falls ; and by which he
also returned, after a successful battle, pursued by his
surviving enemies.
Philip, having been driven from the sea coast and the
neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the active
operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. Wheeler,
&c. retired with some of his followers to the Northfield
Indians, who held a position on a sandy hill,on the north
bank of the river. Here he was attacked in the night by
the troops under Capt. Turner. The English left their
horses on a hill, which descends to a brook emptying
into the Connecticut below the falls ; and having mounted
the opposite bank, proceeded near where the present road
leads, and marched up the sandy hill. Tha place has a
swamp on two sides, and the river on the fourth. It is,
indeed, overtopped by neighbouring hills ; but cannon, of
course, were out of the question in such a warfare. The In-
dians had held a feast that night, as some of their captives
afterwards reported, and were generally asleep, so that
the attack of the white men gave them a panic, and they
fled to their boats, which they launched in such haste, that
many forgot their paddles, and were carried over the falls.
The rest, however, rallied before their enemies were
out of their reach, and being joined by some from the
island below the falls, pursued and harassed them about
ten miles, to Deerfield. Bones are occasionally dug up
near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of an oM
Aa2
362
THE NORTHERN
musket, a few silver coins, &c. were discovered among ttic
rocks.
This was the last and most severe blow Philip received,
before he returned to his native country in Rhode Island,
where he soon after terminated his dangerous life and the
ivar, which brought so many calamities upon New-£ng*
land*
The Canal. A dam of great height is built at the falls,
to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles for
boats and rafts. Some mills are also established on the
river's bank. The fall is divided by two rude rocks, be-
tween which the water rushes in separate cataracts ; and
the scenery below is wild, and not a little imposing.
There is, however, no inn nearer than Greenfield.
Bbbnardston, 8 miles from Greenfield.
Vernon. Within the limits of this township, whieb is
the first in Vermont, was once fort Dummer, one of a ch&in
of forts, built for the protection of the country against the
Canadian Indians. The place for some years was known
on the river, by the name of Number One, being the first
of four new townships.
Passing through a pretty village, with several mills,
after a few miles, we approach Brattleborough, south of
ivhich, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a
large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode of
quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for transpor*
tation.
Brattleborough is a very pleasant village, situated
on an elevated plain above the river, which, since the
draining of the old lake ir: this place, has made two or
three concentric arches north of the town, as it has gra-
dually lowered its channel to the present level. At the
bridge, over a small stream, are several manufactories ;
and in the village is a large and comfortable stage house,
whence coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, and
south.
Westminster. This is on a fine, extensive level; and
on the high land, on the opposite side of the river, is
Walpolb. Connecticut River being the dividing line
between the two adjacent states, Walpole is in New-
Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and the
summit of the hill, above the village, affords a view of un-
TllAVELLEK.
il^A
aong the
received,
e Island,
i and the
[eW'Eng*
the falls,
miles for
id on the
rocks, be-
atcts) and
imposing,
d.
i of a ch&in
igainst the
vas known
Dg the first
, since the
ade two or
it has gra-
el. At the
lufactories ;
tage house,
, north, and
B level; and
ver, is
ividing line
is in New-
ng* &n^ ^^
view of un-
usual extent and beauty. There ia a spacious and wt\l-
kept inn at Wiilpole ; &nd stage coaches go hence to Bos-
ton, &c. It willlbe found the best place to stop at between
Brattleborough and Cbarlestown.
Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, which
contains 700 acres. The house of the proprietor enjoys
a fine situation on a ridge rising from the meadow, near
where stood the fort erected by Col. Bellows, when,
about the middle of the last century, the place was occu-
pied and a settlement begun under the name of Township
No. 3.
The changes which have taken place in the channel of
the river, in the course of ages, are very manifest in pasts-
ing along this part of its course, particularly by the west-
ern bank ; in one place, which is noiv perhaps 100 feet
above the present level of the water, the current appears
once to have flowed, and to have formed the cataract,
which has now retired a mile or more to the north.
'Bel|.ows Falls. The height of this fall is inconside-
rable, but it is on the whole a striking object ; surrounded
by rocky banks, and having an abrupt mountain on the
eastern side. The place has also been much ornamented
by art ; for, besides the village, with its neat white houses
and handsome church, a canal has been dug round the
falls, a bridge thrown over them, and the rugged side of
the mountain decorated with a handsome country seat.
The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray gra-
nite, but are much cut by the force of the current. In
some places boles have been bored into them perpendi-
cularly, two or three feet in diameter, and 12 or even 18
feet deep. This is done by the motion given to loose
stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual en-
lai^ement of the bore sometimes breaks ofi' great masses
of the rock. These falls were once the favourite resort
of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just be-
low the bridge, are some remains of their rude attempts
at sculpture, which represent the form of human faces ;
and from one on the end of the stone, which appears to
have suffered less from the attrition of the floods, it would
seem as if they might once have been more finished spe-
cimens of sculpture than they now appear, as that pre-*
sents considerable prominency and beauty of execution.
264
THE NORTHERN
The Hunt Farm is about 5 miles from the falls, aaU
is a large and valuable estate, the meadows being rich and
beautiful in the extreme. The house and other buildings
are large ; but the establishment is not now conducted on
such a plan as would gratify an agriculturist.
Charlestown. This is one of the prettiest little yillages
in New-England ; having a wide street, partly shaded with
trees, and lined with neat houses, many of which speak
the taste, as well as the easy circumstances of their pro-
prietors.
This was called township No. 4. The fort built for the
defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently rising
ground a little south of the church, where the street runs :
but not a vestige of it is to be discovered. It was most
gallantly defended by Gapt. Stevens, in 1747, against a
large number of French and Indians : although repea|;edly
called upon to surrender, the garrison persisted in the de-
fence, digging into the ground to shelter themselves from
the enemy*s fire, and, after several days, succeeded in
driving them away. Capt. S. received a sword for his
bravery.
Jarvis's Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side
of the river, is very extensive, and contains a number of
large buildings for dwellings, barns, stables, &c. princi-
pally of brick. The land is generally fenced with the
roots of pine trees, draped from the ground, by which,
the soil is rendered fit for immediate cultivation, and un-
incumbered. The proprietor of this farm is also the pos-
sessor of a large part of the township beside, and is very
wealthy.
The road beyond affords some romantic scenes. The
hilli^ approach the river very nearly, and several views are
caught between them, of the mountain behind Windsor,
which is about 2000 feet in height, and divided into three
peaks, whence, it is said, it derived the name of Ascut-
ney, which, in the Indian language, means Three Brothers.
WINDSOR
is a fine and flourishing town, in a very picturesque situa-
tion, particularly when viewed from the opposite side of
the river ; and contains a good stage house, kept by Pettes,
;-4(?
TRAVELLEK.
26d
lUs, and
rich and
tuildings
iicted on
i villages
ded with
:h speak
heir pro-
It for the
tly rising
eet runs :
^as most
against a
epeatedly
in the de-
lves from
seeded in
>d for his
[que situa-
|te side of
IbvPettes,
ii number of stores, some elegant houses, two or three
handsome churches, and the State Prison.
This latfer building is of granite, on the hill in the
western part of the town. It is planned after the old and
ill-devised system, but has one thing in its construction
worthy of imitation : the stones are secured against remo-
val, by having six pound cannon shot placed between
them, holes being cut into the stones to receive them.
Mount Ascutnbt. A great part of the way up this
mountain a road has been cut, and the traveller will be
richly rewarded for the labour of the ascent. From the
nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed, expect to be-
hold a scene like that from Mount Holyokc ; but there is a
great deal that is fine in the appearance of the surround-
ing country, rough, and interspersed with villages and
cultivated tracts, with the Connecticut winding through
it. There is a house for the convenience and refresh-
ment of visiters on this mountain also, and the number
who ascend it annually is already considerable.
The Gulf Road.
Those who are going westward from this part of the
river., are counselled to take the Gulf Road to Burlington,
on Lake Champlain, to which a stage coach runs. Al-
though the route is through the chain of the Green Moun-
tains, the way is remarkably smooth and easy, following the
coursesof the White and Onion Rivers, which have cut deep
channels through the rocks. You have, however, first to
go 16 miles along the western bank of the Connecticut to
White River. Here great quantities of lumber are
brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the
Connecticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth
College, at Hanover, is 5 miles north, and those who are
going to the White Mountains, will of course pursue that
route; {seep. 269 ;) but the following deviation is made for
those who are going to Lake Champlain.
The road up the White River lies along the north bank,
and passes through several beautiful and flourishing vil-
lages. The valley, though narrow, is formed of the rich-
est soil, and wears the same aspect, in form, fertility, and
population, with the meadows of the Connecticut. This
was the course formerlv chosen by the Indians of the
266
THE NORTHERN
north in their commerce with those on ths borders of
that river, before the arrival of Europeans ; and, with the
exception of a short portage, between the White and
Onion Rivers, they brought all their furs from Canada, &c.
by water. During the Indian and French wars, this route
was frequently used for more hostile purposes ; and cap-
tives were taken from these settlements so late as the
Revolutionary war. The scenery is interesting and various
all along the route.
Rot ALTON, a pretty village. ,. '
Randolph
is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Vermont,
and a stage coach likewise passes that way.
Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable passage
from the cast, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain,
where a branch of White River flows along by the nad
in a gentle current, quite inadequate in its present condi-
tion to such effects as it has produced at some former pe-
riod, in parting this enormous barrier. It was not, however,
by the gradual action of a diminutive stream like this,
even when increased by the annual floods, that such
changes were made ; but by the pressure of a lake confined
among the mountains, which here first found a channel.
The Gulf road extends 6 miles, and the ground is so
level that it has been proposed to make it the course of a
canal. Oik the height of land is a pond, from which
flows a stream, into the valley. Part of it joins the
White River, and part the Onion River.
i : ; MONTPELIER
is the capital of Vermont, and a very pretty town. It
contains the State HottsCf a Court Hmsty an Academy,
and other public buildings.*
* History of the State. — The first discovery of Vermont
was made in 1609, by Samuel Champlain, who, after est&blish-
iug a colony at Quebec, proceeding up the Rivers St. Lawrence
and Sorel, explored ana gave his own name to the lake which
washes the western part of the state. This early discovery
of the interior of North America was attended with no Euro-
pean settlement imtil 1724, when the government of Massa-
chusetts erected Fort Dumraer, in the town of Brattleborougbs
TRAVELLER.
267
lei's of
rith the
ite and
ida, &c.
is route
nd cap*
as the
, various
Vermont
est&blisb-
Lawrence
ake which
discovery
no Euro-
of Massa-
eborough\
From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues the
course of Onion River nearly the whole distance, and af-
fords a succession of hilly and mountainous scenery,
on Connecticut River. The first settlement in the western
part of the state was commenced by rx? French in 1731, in
th' town of Addison, and at the sane tiime they erected a fort
at ^£0\m Point. The government of New-Hampshire began
to make grants of townships within the present limits of Ver-
mont in 1749, at which time the settlement of Bennington was
commenced, and at the same time a violent controversy ensued
between the New-Hampshire grants and the province of New-
York, which continued ontil 1764, when the lurisdiction of the
foraier was declared by the King and council to extend to the
western boundaries or New-Hampshire. C>win^ to the war
between Great Britain and France and their lii^^'an allies, the
progress of the state to a settlement and population was ex-
tremely slow ; but by the surrender of Canada to the power of
Great Britain in 1760, the settlement of the state progressed
rapidly. One hundred and thirty-eight towns which had been
granted by the Governor of New-Hampshire for thirteen years,
endine with 1764, were declared void by the government of
New- York, and the settlers were nailed upon to surrender their
charters and purchase new titles. Upon this investigation, the
controversy between the New-Hampsnire grants andNew-Tork
was renewed, which continued for twenty-six years. In 1778,
several of the towns belonging to the state of New-Hampshire
were desirous of uniting with Vermont, which occasioned a
severe controversy and threatened a severance of these grants
between New-Hampshire and New-York. This difficulty
continued until 1781. Massachusetts at this period laid a
claim also to the southern part of these grants, but without
any success. The internal affairs of Vermont were still very
fluctuating, without any regularly organized government : she
was controlled by the arbitrary measures of the Council of
Safety, and that from the commencement of the revolutionary
war until she declared herself a free and independent state.
This was done by a general convention of Delegates from
both sides of the mountain, holden at Westminster in 1777.
The first convention of tlie state met at Dorset in 1776, and
the first constitution was adopted by a convention assembled
at Windsor in July, 1777, but the organization of the govern-
ment did not take place until March, 1778.
Their first warlike enterprise took place under the command
of Col. Ethan Allen, who surprised and captured a British
^'ort at Ticonderoga, without the loss of a man. On the samo
208
THE NORTHERN
M
such af is characteristic of the state. The river is in
many places smooth and gentle, though occasionally in*
terrupted by ftilis and rapids. The Indians navigated it
in their canoes for many miles ; and when they found tbe
channel obstructed, carried them on their shoulders
through the mountains, to the White River, and thus pro*
ceeded to the Connecticut. This route was used by the
Indians in their trade, when the Fnglish first knew
the Connecticut ; and during the French wars the savages
frequently resorted to it in their hostile incursions, as
one of the principal passages to Now-England. Even
as late as the Revolutionary war, a party came from
Canada, and burned several hcuses in the settlements in
this neighbourhood. [For a proposed canal, see page 273.]
On the road iVom Montpelier are two remarkable
Water FalU in the Onion River. They are so near tbc
road that they will be heard in passing, and seen by tnking
a few steps. The Upper FM is in the midst of a wild
scene, the water pouring over broken rocks, between two
high and perpendicular banks. The Lower Fall is ofapecu*
liar character : the stream is broken into foam, and rushes
by with great rapidity ; yet the channel is obstructed in
such a manner oy several large rocks, that the stream is
turned alternately from side to side, being dashed witli
violence against their bases, and thus forced into an un-
natural zig-zag course.
A few miles before reaching Burlington, the road leaves
the river, which bends away further towards the north.
At its mouth is an extensive and fertile meadow, which
may bear a comparison with those on the Connecticut.
day Crown Point was captured by the troops under the com-
mand of Col. Seth Warner. An attack was made upon Mon-
treal, in which Col. Allen was taken prisoner and sent to
England. During the same year, 1775, Col. Warner, wth
300 Vermont solders, attacked and defeated General Carlton
with 800 regulars and Canadians. On the I3th of August,
1777, the New-Hampshire and Vermont militia, under tht
command of Gen. Stark, defeated the British troops under the
command of Colonel Baum.
Tlie difliculties between Vermont and New-York were ami-
cably settled in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into
the confederacy of the states.— (i'^-om a Vermont paper.)
TRAVELLER.
26»
rev 13 ill
nally in-
gated it
Qund tlie
.boulders
thus pro-
ed by the
rst knew
e savages
rsions, as
id. Even
ame from
ements in
pagt 273.]
•emarkable
io near tlic
[1 by tnlting
t of a wild
■tween two
isofapecu*
and rushes
)stnicted in
e stream is
ashed witli
into an un-
road leaves
the north,
^dow, which
inecticut.
Ider the com-
ieuponMon-
J. and sent to
IVarner, wth
Ineral Carlton
lb of August,
[a, under tb
[ops underthf
ork were ami-
I admitted into
out paper.)
BURLINGTON
19 a lai^e and beautiful toWn, and enjoys one of the finest
and most advantageous situations on Lake Champlain.
The ridge of the bill, on the declivity of which it is built,
commands an extensive view upon the lake, with the
numerous mountains which border its western shores,
and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Im-
mediately below is the bay, bounded by high land ; and
the elegant dwellings and beautiful gardens, of the
wealther inhabitants, ornament the foreground.
The Steam Boais stop here on their way to Whitehall
Smd St John's (the route to Montreal;) and the traveller
is referred to passes 185 and 224 for the objects on the lake
in those directiuus. {Returning to Connecticut River,]
HANOVBK. ' \:: -:.
This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable
as the seat of
DARTMOUTH COLLEGE,
an institution which holds a very respectable rank for learn-
ing and influence, the number of its pupils, and the
ability of its officers. It was founded for the education
of Indians, and was named after William Earl of Dart-
mouth. It possesses a large tract of land, which, however,
is unproductive ; and the college building, which is of
wood, and not inhabited by the students, has an aspect
of decay. The chapel is also of wood ; but several of
the houses about the green are very neat, and the ground
being elevated, the place is very pleasant.
Tl*6 Medicd Institution is a brick building, a little north
from the square. The number of scholars in the college,
in 1825, was 138.
The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 18 miles,
presents few objects of much interest ; the country not
being thickly ponulatecf, and no villages intcrvenins^, ex>
•'fipt one, which has several very neat house?.
Bli
«70
THE NORTHERN
HAVERHILL.
There are three villages in this town, but the northern
one is where the Boston road comes in, and where there
are two good inns. The situation is elevated and overlooks
the meadows for some distance. The distant scenery is
here very fine, as Moosehillock Mountain and several
others are in plain view, and serve as an introduction to
the White Mountains, which wc are approaching.
On the opposite of the river is Piermomt, (and the
traveller may cross or not,) where is a Sulphur Spring q(
some local celebrity, with a building for baths. Some
distance south of it is a large house, in an agreeable situ-
ation, for the accommodation of visiters. It is caj^able
of receiving a great many people, and has a gardei^&nd
pleasant rustic walks about it. The stables are large, and
great expense had been incurred, which has yet been ill
repaid.
The Great Ox-how is a meadow containing about 500
acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the western bank,
and in the form of a crescent. The soil is fine and valuable ;
but from the comparative small extent of the meadow, it
cannot be compared with that of Hadley. There are two
or three houses seen, belonging to the family of the first
settler, who, as may be imagined, soon acquired wealth
from so valuable a tract of laud.
From Bath to the White Mountaihs, there are two
roads, one of which turns ofif through Lisbon, Bethle-
hem, Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and
Shadbourn and Hart's Patent. [See Index.]
Such is the wildness of the country, that we can do
little more than enumerate the places. The road is new,
in many places rocky, and in others rough on account of
the logs which have been laid down to support it, and the
remains of the stumps of trees. But it is more direct
and much less mountainous, than that which ps^sses
through Lancaster. It does not however afford that fine
view of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the ranges of
mountains which there surround it, like a magnificent am-
phitheatre.
IS a V
merits
noble j
its cou
TBAVELLEK..
271
LANCASTER
is A tery pleasant town, and the last on the river tvhich
merits that name. The surrounding mountains form a
noble scene, superior to every other of this nature along
its course. /
* The namgation of Connecticut River.
In 1825 a survey was made of the upper waters of this
river, as far as Lake Connecticut, under the authority of
* The freight, per ton, from Wells River to Hartford is at
present $10 ; and from Hartfor''. to Wells River $20. From
Brattleboro^gh to Hartford ( 1 JO miles) $6 per ton down and
$10 up. Some counties in ue north-eastern part of Vermont
now nnd it economical to transport produce 40 or 50 miles bv
land to St. Albans, thence by Lake'vChtuT-^lain to Whitehall,
thence by the canal to Albany, and thence In sea vessels to
Boston — ^thuS passing the land, lake, canal, river, Buund. and
ocean. It is to reduce the expense of transportation over land,
or circuitous water carriage, that the improvement of the
river is to be attempted, from 100 towns in Vermont, the
average price of transportation over kjid, to the nearest mar-
ket, is estimated at $22 per ton — ^wheat, rye, or Indian com,
60 cents a bushel. The average freight qfialt is more than
ite first cost ; and such is the enormous freight of Plaster of
Paris, as to amount to a prohibition of its use.
For the purpose of showing the difference between freights
now, and freights after the improvements are made, the fol-
lowing estimate is given :
Present
freight.
23 00
15 00
As to the amount~of tonnage, it is estimated that 16,000 tons
would annually pass from towns in Vermont, to a market. By
the improvement, the saving on this, per ton, would be $9 80 ;
and would make an aggregate of $156,800 : 8,000tons are esti-
mated from New-Hampshire — 10,000 tons from towns in Mas-
sachusetts, above South Hadley Falls, and 12,000 tons from
towns in Massachusetts, below South Hadley Falls ; making in
all, an annual saving to the citizens of the valley of Connec-
ticut River, of $293,200. If there be added to t^sj^t probable
From Bamet to Boston,
From Brattleborough to do.
Improved.
11 57
6 65
Saving
per ton.
11 43
8 35
272
THE NORTHERN
the adjacent states, and the general government ; and the
result was such as strongly to encourage the hope, that the
obstructions in the channel may iJl be overcome, so ag
to allow of the passive of boats ^ite up to its source in
Lake Connecticut. If such a plan were executed, the
effects would prove of incalculable importance to the fer-
tile and extensive regions through which the river flows.
Beside opening the nav^;ation to Lake Connecticut, be-
tween Bamet, Vt. and Stewartstown, N. H. it is intended
te connect the river with Lake Memphremagog by a boat
diannel, between Nalhegan and Clyde Rivers.
The following statements are given as the results of
the survey. That flrom Barnet in Vermont, to Hartford
in Coaneotiout, a diitanoc of Htd miles, a depth
never less than four feet at km water may be provided,
and slack water secured throughout, so as to foe naviga-
ble by boats of heavy fourden, at an expense notexce^ing
flyOTl^dZ? 91: which estimate kas been made en the stippo-
aition Uiat the works are to be tonstructed of the best ma-
terials, and in the most durable manner. Of the above
apeei^ extent, 17 aUes would be canal, to avoid bars or
tedious beods in the eiream, and SOS miles would foe slack
water na^gation formed in the stream itself, by 15 dans
and 41 lodks propei^ disposed, and such occasional exca-
Tations as are found necessary. In addition to the sum
above stated as the probable cost of the works to be con-
structed, an amount of about $500,000 must be expended
to procure certain necessary water privileges, now in the
lumds of various individuals and companies, preliminary
to the undertaking ; which will make the cost of the
whole amount to $1,571,827 91.
Canal from Connecticut River to Burlington on Lake
Champlain,
A survey has lately been completed, of Onion River,
from Lake Champlain, at Burlington, to Montpelier, a
distance of 38 miles. It is ascertained that a canal may
saving to towns in Connecticut, say $6,800, the grand e^tit
mate will be safe at f900,000.
TRAVELLEK.
'276
and the
that the
\tf BO as
lource in
ited, the
» the fer-
er flows,
ticut, he-
intended
by a hoat
results of
Hartford
a depth
provided,
)e oaTiga"
exceeding
the stippo-
liebestnta-
tbe above
oid bars or
ltd be slack
jy 15 dans
ional exca-
to the sum
I to be con*
e expended
now in the
)reUininary
:ost of the
be made on three levels, the amount of fall at three points
being 394 feet. The height of Lake Champlain above the
Hudson Rivef, at Albany, is 86 feet. The elevation from
Montpelier towards the Connecticut Uiver, to Gnion
River Pond, was found to be 877 feet, and the fall thence
to the mouth of Wells River on the Connecticut 918 feet,
making the whole lockage from Lake Champlain to the
Connecticut 2189 feet. By another route through Dog
River, where there is a less abundant supply of water,
and White River, to the mouth of the latter, the lockage
is 1468 feeet.— [Boston Daily Mv,]
[Having now completed the route up Connecticut
River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other routes
and places, see Index.]
i .1
•h/* • ?• 1 1. '^ii''.'
! ,
»■ , :i ;>-;,' >
^ - i, \ ' -V-''^ 1
nion Ri»er>
ontpelier, a
canal may
'3 ■:
■ ' kt . ~'
B b 9
«74
THE NORHERN
'v(
■♦»
NEW-LONDON.
Entering New-London Habour, on the left is the Light
House, and the dwelling of Gen. North, once aid-de-camp
to Baron Steuben. The tihore beyond is inhabited by
fishermen, whose boats (called smacks) are generally to
be seen in great numbers.
Fort Trombuil
M
( i
occupies a point beyond. It is a small work, and garri-
soned by the United States. It was taken in the revolu-
tionary war, as well as the town and Fort Gmtoold, which
stands on the high hill opposite. Looking up the River
Thames, the prospect is handsome, the banks being high
and cultivated, and backed by Horton's Hill, several miies
distant, in the Mohegan country.
The Harbour of Mew-London is one of the most ac-
cessible, safe, and commodious in the United States, lying
near the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded by
high land, and having water enough for ships of war quite
up to the wharve8,-witb a fine sandy bottom near the
shores. Unfortunately, however, there is no convenient
communication far into the country, and the region about
it is far from fertile, so that the place can never attain
much importance. It serves in some degree as the port
of Connecticut River, because there is no good harbour
there ; and a great deal of trade was carried on with the
West Indies a few years ago.
New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the
number of inhabitants, and like several of the other prin-
cipal places, although so small, ei^joys the privileges of a
city. It is situated irregularly, principally at the foot of
a hill, facing the east, and wears an appearance of de-
cline ; but some of the houses are handsome, and there
are several fine situations near the top of the hill.
One of the steam boats stops here ; and the other, after
landing and receiving passengers, proceeds up the river
to Norwich, 13 miles.
There is a road hence to Providence, and another from
TUAVELLl^U.
275
Norwicb, both equally uninteresting, and nearly of equal
length. The river, however, affords some very pretty
scenes, and Norwich is a neat and interesting town.
The prices have hitherto been nearly the same for the two
routes. ^ ■• '.
i;.i!j
FoiiT Griswold,
on the high hill opposite New-London, was garrisoned by
a few continental troops in the year 1781, in the revolu-
tion, when Benedict Arnold, after his treacherous dr ser-
lion of the American cause, appeared iff the harbour ^'ith
a British force on the 6th of Septemb r; and landing 800
men on each point of the harbour, msTched up und took
Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Co! £] e, who
commanded the troops on the eastern shore, proceeded to-
wards Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of truce, 'v
manded a surrender.
But before this time, Col. Lcdyard had entereu the
fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly a^'iitia vo-
lunteers ^om the neighbourhood. The B itis.: troops
had advanced under cover of a wood, and invested the
fort ; but the Americans defended themselves for some
time, beating off their enemies once, and finally surren*
dering only when resistance would have been entirely
useless. The enemy had lost 41 officers antl men, who
were buried near the spot ; with Col. Ay res, the command-
er, wounded, and Maj. Montgomery killed. After the
surrender, however, a massacre of the prisoners took
place, which cast the deepest disgrace on the expedition :
70 officers and men being the victims, most of whom
were heads of families. Many ok (!>'.; wounded were also
treated in a most barbarous manner , i>eing placed in a cart,
and rolled down the hill just south of the present road to
the fort.
This melancholy event wr 5 commemorated on the 6th
day of September, 1S25, by a procession, an oration, &c.
and arrangements were made for building by subscription
a monument on tbe spot.
The objects on the Thames, at Norwich, &c. will be
taken up on page 277.
■■ay*'
'27ti THE NORTHERN
Road from NEW-LONDON to PROVIDENCE.
FoRt Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles
east from this place, and derives its name from a Pequod
Fort, which formerly occupied its summit. A road cross-
es it near the southern limit of the fort, and a small
church stands a quarter of a mile above, within the ex-
tensive space once enclosed by that palisaded work. It
was the great fortress of the terrible Pequod nation, which
makes a very conspicuous figure in the early history of
the eastern colonies. They had fought their way from
the interior, and seated themselves in the present limits
of Groton, where the few poor remains of their descend-
ants still are found. On the arrival of the English, they
had extended their conquests a considerable distance up
Connecticut River, and the Eastern and Western Nehan-
tics on the coast were subject to them.
In consequence of the murders they had committed,
and the attack with which they threatened the infant
settlements at Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield, the
inhabitants formed an expedition in the spring of 1637,
led by Capt. Mason, attacked their other fort on the Mys-
tic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after which
the nation fled from their country ; and having suffered
another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fairfield, (see
page 231,) were reduced to slavery, and ceased from that
time to be an object of terror.
This hill commands an extensive and delightful view,
being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being su-
perior in height to the neighbouring hills. A considerable
extent of Long Island and the Sound are overlooked from
the summit, with various islands, bays, and points on
the Connecticut Coast. At the time of the burning of
Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the chief Sachem Sassa-
cus, who hastened to the relief of his subjects, but ar-
rived too late to render them any assistance. On his
return here, he burnt the weekwams, and palisadoes, and
immediately fled for refuge to the Mohawks, by whom he
ivas beheaded.
Mystic, 7^ miles. ,,
Stonington. 10 miles*.
'/'"'"««»•
TRAVELLER.
277
On descending the hill nvhich leads into this village,
Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off the
road on the right hand. Under the shelter of it, it is said,
Capt. Mason encamped with his little army, on the night
of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his suc-
cessful attack on the Pequod Fort, which was on the top
of a hill about two miles south of this place.
During the last war, a small fort in this town was at-
tacked by a ship and two brigs of Com. Hardy's squadron,
and defp'nded by the inhabitants with great gallantry.
HoPKiNTON, 11 miles.
Wrst Greenwich, 15 miles.
Centreville, 2 miles.
[Here are two cotton manufactories, about half a mile
apart, and two weaving shops, with their little settlements,
principally inhabited by the work people.]
Providence, 11 miles. (Seepage 284.)
THE RIVER THAMES.
SUam Boia Route Jrom NEW-LONDON to NORWICH.
A little above New-London, there is a singular rock,
on the east side, where the explorers of the river are
said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the
Pequods. The Mohegan country lies above, on the
west side, with HortorCs Hilly on the top of which Uncas
had a fort, something of which still remains. It is a
very commanding position, and overlooks the surround-
ing country. During the late war, the government ships
Macedonian, United States, and Hornet, which were in
the river, lay moored here for a length of time, and their
guns were drawn up by oxen to the top of the hill on
the east shore, above the little cove. A small battery
was also constructed on the little spur projecting from the
hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia were also stationed on
the opposite shore for their further security.
Massapeague Point, just above. Here the river is
quite narrow, opening northward into a small lake.
There is a small Island on the eastern shore, on which
^78
THE NORTHERN
is a stone cottage, built by the soldiers for a poor family
which resided here during the war. It lies at the entrance
of a pretty cove, which makes up a mile. Commodore
Decatur brought the ships up here, for still greater secu-
rity against the British cruizing off New-London Harbour.
The place where they lay is Kiah^s Cwe^ a mile above the
island.
Above this place, the river has been impeded by sand,
washed down by the Shetucket River, and attempts are
making to remedy it by building piers. At low water, it
is now 7^ or 8 feet deep, and the tide rises from 2 to 2^
feet.
Trading Cove, 1 mile above Kiah's Cove, is a hand-
some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and
derived its name from the barter formerly carried on here
between the white men and the Mohegans. Uneasy the
Sachem of Mohegan, was believed to be of Pequod de-
scent, but in a ^tate of successful revolt at the time the
English became acquainted with him. His chief residence
was near this cove, now the centre of the Indian Reser-
vation ; but the burying ground of the royal family was
near Norwich Landing, (which is in sight from this place.)
He had conquered the country as far north as about the
present Massachusetts line, but became an early friend of
the whites, and rendered them important services, par-
ticularly in war, as well as his successors, the later Mo-
hegan Chiefs.
Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was
once so closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, that
he suffered extremely from a scarcity of provisions, and
was relieved only by the care of a man named Leffing-
well, who was despatched from Connecticut with a boat
loaded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncas gave him a
large part of the present town of Norwich for this im-
portant service. There is a rock still pointed out on the
shore, and called Uncas's Chair, where the Sachem is
said to have set and watched the arrival of his frien... .
On the south side, Trading Cove is bounded by Nab
Cooper's Hill, an appellation somewhat quaint for a neigh-
bourhood not deficient in romantic association. Beyond
is Fott Hillf which derived its name from a little *ace of
strength erected in old times by the Indians, ^r a pro^
TRAVELLER.
aTty
tection against othev nations small Uke itself. The poor re-
mains of this tribe reside on the lands secured to them
by the state government, and live in all the ignorance,
idlenses, and thriftlessness common to Indians in this part
of the country : melancholy testimonies of the degrada-
tion to which the most active human minds may sink
when every customary impulse to exertion has been stifled,
and no new incitement extended. An Indian could for-
merly equal or surpass his companions by an extraordi-
nary display of swiftness and skill in the chase, or con*
duct and courage in war ; and what exertions were not
made for the attainment of such distinction ? Red men
have traversed these beautiful shores in the pursuit of
game or the tracks of their enemies, and suffered all the
severities of climate and privation, of wounds and of
torture, for those white men whose sons now neglect and
despise their descendants, and coldly question their ca>-
pacity for improvement.
NORWICH.
Stage Coaches go on to Providence and Boston, and
there are others in different directions.
It contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing
is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular situa-
tion, as well as for its appearance of business, which is
much favoured by the numerous manufactories in the
neighbouring country. The Plain is about a mile north,
and a very pleasant place.
On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper end
of which are the Falls of the Yantic, a stream which
pours over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, and sup-
plies several manufactories with water. The place is
highly picturesque. A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, over-
hangs the stream, whence a number of Narragansett In-
dians once precipitated themselves when pursued by the
Mohegans.
The Burying Ground op the Uncasses
is on the elevated bank north of the Cove, on the grounds
of Judge Goddard, There are stones marking the grave?"
280
THE NORTHERN
of numerous members of the royal family of the Mohc
gans, and a few of them bear English inscriptions. The
family is now extinct, with the exception of one or two
degenerate beings, who hate nothing but their name to
boast of. Uncas, the old friend of the white men, is
buried here. He and his nation were the only steady
allies they ever found among the Indians, who was steady
and powerful enough to render them very essential ser-
vice. He was a man of extraordinary talent, and withal,
extremely politic ; but he refused to join the general in-
surrection under King Philip in 1675, and died a friend of
the white men.
This plain was the principal summer residence of the
Mobegans.
The Cotton Manufactory is a very large establish-
ment, under the bank, and at the mouth of the Yaoiic.
The position is well selected, and the sum expended in
buildmgs and machinery very great. It is owned by a
company in Boston, from which city a vast amount of
capital has been expended in all parts of New-England
for similar objects, as the traveller ivill have opportunity
to perceive as he proceeds.
Canal. Surveys were made in 1825 for a Canal to
run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up the
Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply of
water is considered abundant at all seasons, and the tract
of country through which it is to pass extremely favoura-
ble to the execution of such a design, as well as by its
fertility and population, encouraging to its success. It is
to pass through the following towns : Springfield, Palmer,
Western, Brookfield, Sturbridge, Southbridge, and Dud-
ley, to the Quinebaugh.
Road from NORWICH to PROVIDENCE.
The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh River
for some distance, through a hilly tract of country, and
near a fine cataract in that stream. At the distance of
1 1 miles from Norwich, it passes
Sachem's Field.
This is an elevated plain, on which a, battle was foiigh'
V;'^!"^:V?^'7V?^' '
TRAVELLER.
281
in the year 1643, between about 900 Narragansetts, (who
inhabited Rhode Island,) and 500 or 600 Mohegans. The
Sachem of the former, Miantonimo, intending to chastise
Uncas for his adherence to the English, secretly adranced
into his country with an army ; but Uncas was aware of
his approach, and met him on this plain, where both par-
ties halted.
Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward
alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quarrel
single-handed. This, as he expected, was refused ; and
while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal by
falling down, when his men instantly set up a yell, dis-
charged their arrows, and rushed forward. The Narra-
gansetts fled, and many of them yere killed. Uncas cap-
tured Miantonimo himself, but tLj haughty Indian would
not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He was taken to
Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to Uncas for
execution. He was brought back to this place, and while
iDArchiiig across the field, was tomahawked on a spot a
little east of the road, where a heap of stones for many
years marked the place of his burial.
Jewett's Gitt is a small manufacturing place, 7 miles
from Norwich. There are three cotton manufactories
here, one with 2000 spindles.
Plainfield
and
IS
good, and
the route of
is a pleasant village ; the inn is large
overlooks a fertile plain, through which
the proposed canal to Brookfield, Mass,
On crossing the line of Rhode Island, the country be-
comes uninteresting. The farmers are poor and negli-
gent ; there are no villages deserving of the name, and
nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two
small manufactories.
Providence. See page 2S4.
as fougfe'
NEWPORT.
This place possesses one of the best harbours in the
United States. The entrance is guarrlcd by the Dum-
i262
THE NORTHERN
plihgs Forti and Fort Adams ; and the scenery about it is
Fort Adams on Brenton's Point has had some addi-
tions made to its defences, and is to embrace, when com<
pleted, an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to
line the shore towards the west, as far down as the first
rising ground. It is proposed to fortify the Dumplings
at an expense of $500,000.
Fort Woolcott is on Goat Island, opposite the town.
Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but
presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been
removed to Providence. The situation has many advan-
tages ; and this with the cheapness of rent will probably
render it the temporary abode of many strangers during
the warm season.
Thb Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of the
hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused.
There are four churches visible ; and the Library, a small
but neat and correct specimen of architecture in the up-
per part of the town, is worthy of attention. The houses
of the town are thickly clustered about the margin, but
make rather a gloomy appearance on account of the want
of paint and repair ; the place having experienced a gradual
declension produced by the success of Providence, 30
miles further up.
The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, about
a mile above the totvn, seen in passing in the steam boat.
The island belongs to the town, and contains SO acres.
The building is three stories high, of stone, and con-
tains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, work on the
land, and others on different manufactures ; but most of
them are women, and some superannuated. The keeper
receives 50 cents a week (or the board of each, which is
paid by the town, to which the products of the labour are
credited. Since this establishment has been formed, the
expenses of the poor to the town have been reduced one-
half.
The beach behind the town, like the whole circuit of
the city, on the land side, was defended by a line of troops,
batteries, &c. during the possession of it by the English
LQ the revolutionary war ; and the opposite high grounds
were occupied by the American army, whose head quar
TRAVELLER.
233
lers were on Taumony Hill, a mile and a half, or tbert:-
abouts, from the town ; and an elevation which affords an
extensive view on every side. It is said to have derived
its name from some old Indian chief, whose life, and pc-
riod) and exploits, have been entirely lost. Gen. Prescott
was taken here during the war, by a bold party of men
under Col. Barton, who landed secretly from a boat in the
night, went to the British head quarter?, and conveyed
their captive away before the land or naval forces, then in
the harbour, could prevent them. The place was block-
aded by the British fleet.
During the possession of the place by the enemy, the
trees were cut down for fuel ; and although the soil is
admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and
was before that period, quite covered with the finest
orchards ; it is now so divested of trees of every descrip-
tion, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous for
an American scene. The fertility of the ground, and the
excellence of the crops, however, as well as the neatness
and precision ivith which the fields are cultivated, and
regularly divided by fine stone walls, present a picture of
agricultural beauty rarely paralleled in the United States.
Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's
edge, about a mile above the town.
Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence
of the Narraganset Indians, and particularly as the abode
of King Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from
a few miles beyond Newport, towards the north-west.
It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay,
and will be particularly described hereafter. The view
of it is soon afterwards cut off by the intervention of
Prudence Island^ which is about five miles in length, and
presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling surface
as that of Rhode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are
those of Patience and Hope : islands of a much smaller
size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the
island of Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from
Providence.
The banks along the remaining part of the river pre-
sent little that is remarkable. The Coal Mine is near the
north end of Rhode Island. The coal is anthracite.
234
THE NORTHERN
PROVIDENCE.
This is the second city in New- England, both in popu-
lation, wealth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, about
16,U00 inhabitants, and is beautifully as well as advan>
tageously situated at the head of navigation, on the river
of the same name. -
Brown University,
the greatest institution of learning in the state, is built
on the summit of a high hill, the ascent to which is not
very easy, although it is laid out in streets decorated with
some of the finest houses in this part of the country ;
dispersed among spacious gardens, and mingling the de>
lights of the country with the splendour of a city. Inhere
are two brick buildings belonging to this institution, which
contained, in 1S25, 156 students.
The town was settled by Roger Williams, who left the
old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in religious
doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near the
present episcopal church. Many of the society of Qua-
kers or Friends afterwards joined him, whose descendants
form a large share of the population of the state.
The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles,
is one of the best in the United States ; as the law re-
quires that all the income above 10 per cent, shall be de-
voted to repairs ; and the travelling is very great. It is
hard and smooth, and is to be furnished with a convenient
side walk the whole distance.
Pawtucket
is one of the largest manufacturing places in this part of
the country, and has increased surprisingly within a few
years. The banks of the river are varied and somewhat
romantic ; while the fall, which is under the bridge, fur-
nishes a most valuable water power. There are three
new manufactories building at Centre Falls, about a mile
above. Cotton is principally manufactured here, though
there is machinery devoted to other purposes. The influx
}
TRAVELLER.
^80
oi strangers, many of them poor and ignorant for-
eigners, and most of them removed from the wholesome
restraints of a better society, has produced unfavour-
able eflTects on habits and morals ; which is the worst
feature in the manufacturing system.
Blackstone Canal.
This canal, which is intended to reach to Worcester,
Mass. will run along the course of the Blackstone River
for several miles. That stream is seen on leaving Provi-
dence, and lies west of the road to Boston. The road
now in use is new, and shorter than the old, but avoids
several villages which that passes through, and presents
very few objects worthy of notice.
r
Attleborough.
The inn at this place stands on the spot once occupied
by a block house, built on the frontier of the Indian
country before Philip's war. Opposite is an old burying
ground, which contains the body of the first man killed
here by the savages.
Walpole.
Here the stage coaches usually stop to dine or breakfast.
Dediiam,
10 miles from Boston, ,
is a large and beautiful village, with regular and well built
streets, and some quite elegant houses.
Blue Hills. This is a pleasant retreat, about 7 miles
from the city of Boston, and much re&iorted to in the
summer season ; as a large house of entertainment has
been recently erected at the foot of the mountain whence
the place derives its name ; and the summit, which is
considered about 800 feet above the level of the ocean,
commands a fine and extensive view. A small house has
also been built . on the top, where the view is the finest,
for the temporary repose and supply of visiters. On the
Oc2
.a. 5 _^-cr ^ ;
^6
TUB NORTHERN
northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, the Grceu
Mountains in Vermont, and the White Mountains in New-
Hampshire, with a wide extent of country between ; Na-
hant, and in general, all Boston Bay, is seen eastwardly^
and near at hand.
The hills are seen on the right from the road, a few
miles south of Boston.
ROXBUKY.
On the Neck which leads to Boston, we pass the re-
mains of the entrenchments thrown up by General Wash-
ington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in the town ;
and a little beyond them is the place where Gen Gage
before drew his line across, to command the communica-
tion between it and the country. The country ou both
sides retains marks of the American forts, redoubts, &c.
and Dorchester Heights on the east are crowned with
the works thrown up by Washington, which commanded
Boston and the anchorage ; and forced the enemy to
evacuate the place. Emliarking here in their fleet, they
went round to Long Island, and soon after entered New-
York.
TUAVELl.ER.
•28:
BOSTON.
Hotels, &c. The Exchange. Marlborough Hotel.
Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine build-
ings, particularly private residences : for it not only pos-
sesses much wealth, but it is more fashionable here than
in many other places, to fit merchants for the compting
house by a liberal education, by which means taste, as
well as science, is fostered. The finest buildings are of
whitish granite, brought from the shores of the Mcrrimac
River, being found in abundance at different places, from
Chelmsford to Concord, N. H. It is transported to Bos-
ton by the Middlesex Canal, and is not only beautiful and
lasting, but obtained at a moderate price.
The New Market
is constructed of this material, and is of the following di-
mansions: a centre building 74^ feet by 5.5, with wings,
extending in all 536 feet, with a fine facade at each end,
with granite columns of single pieces, 21 feet high, and
weighing, each, 14 or 15 tons ; a row of granite buildings
on each side, 4 stories high, for stores, more than 500 feet.
The Common
is a fine piece of ground, on the south-western side of the
city, and one of its greatest ornaments. The surface is
agreeably varied by a few gentle undulations, and it is de-
corated by rows of handsome dwelling houses on two
sides, while on the third, it is bounded by the bay of
Charles's lliver, and affords an extensive view in that direc-
tion, embracing a tract of cultivated billy country^' A
range of buildings near the south end of the Common,
bears the name of Colonnade Row, in consequence of
their being all alike furnished with white columns.
The State House
is the principal .object seen in approaching the city, and
stands on a considerable eminence at the north side of
28g
THE NOUTUEKN
the Common. It has a double range of columns in liotu
of the main building, and a large dome on the top, to which
a somewhat intricate stair^case leads, affording the most
extensive view uf Boston and the hurrounding country
which is to be found. The hills at Dorchester, Uuxbury,
Brighton, Cambridge, Charlestown, &c. together with the
numerous islands, which protect the harbour, form an
amphitheatre, very regular and beautiful ; and the villages
ivhich are seen in every direction, almost entirely line
their shores. The mingling of land and water in this
scene is very fine ; and it is easy, at a glance, to compre«
hend the plan of the various measures, adopted during the
llevolutionary war, for the defence and the capture of the
place.
Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breast work across Roxbury
neck, which is very narrow, in order to command the only
land communication with the neighbouring country, and
then continued those acts of oppression upon the people,
which exasperated the colonies so much against him.
Contributions were sent in for their relief from all parts
of the colonies.
On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces which had
repaired to this threatened scene, had their head quarters
at Cambridge, a body of men, principally formed of detach*
ments from Massachusetts and New-Hampshire regi-
ments, having fortified themselves on Breed's Hill, (an in-
ferior eminence behind Charlestown,) manfully disputed
the ground with the British troops, sent over from Bos"
ton to occupy it. The loss was great on both sides, parti-
cularly on that of the assailants, who were driven back in
three attacks. The boldness of these raw troops^ and the
success with which they so long withstood the charges of
the regulars, was of the utmost use, by encouraging the
country, and by convincing the English that they were
fighting a powerful foe. The battle usually goes by the
name of Bunker's Hill ; but should, in strict propriety,
be called after Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct em-
inence, although, perhaps, a spur from the former.
The British landed near a point, just beyond where the
navy yard is now seen; and the American defences consist-
ed of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's Hill, and a
iJuuble rail fence, stuffed with new hay, extending from it
THAVELLttt.
S8'J
to the water. Some remains of these works are still to
be traced. A British sloop of war, lay, durihg the ac-
tion, in Mystic Iliver, beyond the navy yard, and kept up
a cross fire upon the low neck, which connects the penin-
sula of Charlestown with the main land.
The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this
battle, was commemorated with very appropriate ceremo-
nies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid in an
angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, with Masonic
ceremonies. A large number of Revolutionary officers
and soldiers assembled ; and the monument is to be
erected at the expense of private contributions.
After the battle of Bunker^s hill, the Continental troops
were drawn in a more complete line around the town of
Boston ; and numerous entrenchments may still be traced
out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was not till
Gen. Washington succeeded in occupying Dorchester
Heights, which command the harbour and town from the
south-east, that the British forces embarked in their ships,
and evacuated the place.
Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of
March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van ; then
followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. Tho-
mas, 300 carts of fascines and gabions, and guns in the
rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one towards
the city, and the other towards Castle Island. Prepara-
tions were made for an attack by the British, and for de-
fence by the Americans ; but the weather prevented the
designs of the former, who consisted of 10,000, and they
embarked for New- York. The town was pillaged, and
1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated and possessed,
March 17, ammunition, &c. being left by the British.
Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in the
neighbourhood of Boston, are the bridges which lead from
it to various points. There are no less than five principal
ones, beside several branches* The expense at which
they have been constructed and are kept in repair, is
very great, and they furnish great facilities for strangers
desirous of making excursions to the surrounding country.
Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a succes-
sion of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty
in the United States. They are generally the residence of j»
290
THE NORTHERN
number of the most opulent citizens, during the pleasant
seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and expen-
sive. The grounds are also frequently laid out with great
taste, and highly cultivated ; so that no stranger, tvho has
leisure, should fail to take a circuit through them, at least
for a few miles.
NAHANT,
14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fashionable
resort, during the warm months : being a fine situation,
open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, and
furnished with several bouses for the accommodation of
visiters, particularly the large hotel. A steam boat runs
thither in the summer, and there is a fine road which
passes round the bay through the shoe-making town
of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns off to the
promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough rocks
of considerable elevation. You may cross Charlestown
bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at setting out.
The passage in the steam boat affords a fine view of
Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester Heights on the
south. Bunker, and Breed's Hill on the north-west, and
many other interesting objects. Among the isKnds which
form the defence of the harbour, is that which contains
Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified ones ;
Rainsford Island with the Marine Hospital, part of it quite
elevated, but containing only a few acres. Salt is made
in Boston Bay, and wind mills are sometimes used to
pump the water.
The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been laid out
and ornamented with as much taste as the exposure of the
situation will permit. The cupola on the top commands
a fine water scene ; and, durins: u strong wind from the
sea, the waves are high and magnificent, breaking \vM\y
against the rocks. There is a very ornamental little
building, in the Grecian style, which contains billiard
rooms.
The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and
qitite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attractions
of il.^ place.
The Syren's Grotto is a remarkable cavity in the
{'ocks, about a quarter of a mile from the hotel, which.
has been (
several oti
course of
The rude :
arained at
scenes, sh
the wind i:
Coaches
made betwi
ting out for
New-York.
In the fir
may be tak(
Springs, or
route of C(
more direct
Concord, PI
nover ; or C
to Chariest!
veiled, as it
and the Spr
ing places.
Springs, thr
borough, Bl
New Leban
different rou
to recomme
objects in vi
posal. To (
once more,
at once a s(
intelligence,
country, of
respondent s
is rich and \
is seen ; but
in the Whit*
iianced by tl
f
To Albany through Worcester, Northampton, and
Lebanon Springs.
Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vicinity
of Boston, presents many neat country seats, and an as-
pect of rural beauty and fertility.
Framingham. Here is a large and well kept hotel,
where the stage coaches stop, and is a place of great
resort.
Worcester. (See page 2i7.)
Leicester.
Spencer.
Brookfield. This was one of the towns earliest settled
in this part of the country, dating so far before Philip's
War. The land was sold by the Indians to Thomas
Cooper, for the settlers, Nov. 10, 1665; and for several
years the only towns on the west were Hadley, Northamp-
ton, &c. while there was no white settlement between it
and Canada. The stage coach passes over a long hill in
West Brookfield, which commands an extensive prospect;
and this was the place where the settlement began. A
few yards west of a white house on the north side of the
road, was a house built for defence, and though of little
strength was called the Fort. In August, 1675, when the
Indians had first begun to be troublesome in the south of
New-England, this place was suddenly bc^et by severa'
1 ■,
TKAVULLLU.
^293
ile!!«
' pass,
lid too
jcts of
e road
ife, Sec
liundreU savages. T'he inhabitants had been imposed
upon by the appearance of friendliness shown by the Has-
senemesit Indians, and on their way to their fftttf a few
miles distant, were ambushed and pursued, so that they
barely escaped. The house in which they all assembled,
was besieged, and was several times in imminent danger.
On one occasion a cart loaded with hemp, &c. and set on
fire, was pushed up to the house with long poles, when a
sudden shower came up, in time to extinguish the flames.
The fortunate arrival of Capt. Moseley, with a small troop
of horsemen, delivered the inhabitants, and drove away
the savages ; but it is melancholy to reflect, that the Ge-
neral Court thought proper to censure that gallant officer,
for neglecting their orders, although he had been diverted
only by the distress of Brookfield. All the houses having
been burnt, and the war soon beginning to rage with
violence, the settlement was evacuated.
The old well still remains which belonged to the fort,
or block house ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the op-
posite side of the road, from behind which an Indian
shot one of the men, who came out to draw water during
the siege.
The present village is at the bottom of the hill, and is
pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighbour-
hood, which, with the fish and fowl they furnished, were
the principal attraction of the savages, who ivere very
numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give rise
to the Qurbaug River, which, after a course of some miles,
takes the name of Chicopce, and joins the Connecticut at
Springfield. This is the stream which it is intended to
connect with Boston Bay by a canal, and also by another
with the Thames at Norwich, in Connecticut,
Four miles west of Brookfield you reach a height of
'and, which affords a varied and extensive view, with a
.accession of hilly country immediately around you.
Ware Factory Village
V ppveva
is situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. The
rocks and woods gave an air of wildness to the water fall?
in their natural state, and the place is now quite pic'
1)d
294
THF. NORTHERN
turesque, when a rustic cottage, the residence of the
agenti is taken into view.
Four years since there wore only five buildings ; and
now there are, a cotton factory, containing 2,000 spin-
dies, and 56 looms ; another nearly finished, to contain
4,500 spindles, and 150 looms ; a third, of the size of the
latter, commenced ; a flannel manufactory, in which are
made 15 pieces per week; fifteen edifices used as store,
dye, wool houses, machine, blacksmiths', cabinet makers^
and various other shops ; grist and saw mills, a furnace,
thirty dwelling houses ; and other buildings erecting, ma-
king the whole number of structures fifty-eight.
Belchertown, 9 miles.
Amherst, 7 miles. The shortest road to Northampton
does not pass the College,
Hadlet, 5 miles. >
TRAVELLER.
295
TOUR TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
From Boston,
The first day's journey is to Concord or Dover, both ia
Netv-Hampshire. The former route is recommended.
There are three roads to Concord, on all which there
are stage coaches. (See ** Roads," at the end of the vo-
lume.)
The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvard Uht-
versity,) and Lexington.
The se jond is through Charlestown, and joins the other
on the Merrimack.
The third is through Andovtr and HaverhiU, (Mass.)
The distance is from 68 to 70 miles, and the fare $3,50.
Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex Canal,
which leaves the upper locks in Charlestown, (2 miles firom
Boston,) three times a week, and goes to ChelL^sford in
about 9 hours : 28 miles, passage 75 cents. This mode is
not particularly recommended.
Stsveral places on these roads will be particularized.
Lexington
is remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed
in the revolutionary war. On the 19th of April, 1776,
Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Boston, to seize a
powder house at Concorde belonging to the colony ; and
the inhabitants were warned of his design, by an ex-
press despatched by the Hon. Joseph Warren. The
militia were called out, but, the alarm subsiding, they
were dismissed, with orders, however, to hold themselves
in readiness. The enemy unexpectedly made their appear-
ance at half past 4, coming on at quick step, within a mile
and a quarter of the church. The alarm guns were fired,
drums beat, and 50 or 60 militiamen assembled on the pa-
rade. The British brigade halted about 120 yards from the
church to load, and then passing the east end of the building,
discovered the. Americans, who were ordered at the mo<
inent, by their commander, Capt. Parker, to "disperse, and
fake care of themse!vesj*'but "not to fire." As some ofthw^A
296
THE NORTHKUN
loitered, the British troops rushed towards them, hu/z^u-
ing. Major Pitcairn fired a pistol at them, when about
30 yards distant, after they had been called " rebels," and
ordered to lay down their arms and disperse. Another
officer, who was witbin a few yards of them, then bran-
dished his sword and ordered the troops to " fire," which
was obeyed at the second order ; and the fire being re-
turned, was kept up on the dispersing men until they
bad all disappeared. Eight were killed and ten wounded.
(Gen. Gage falsely stated that the British were first fired
upon.)
After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green be-
hind the church, and given three cheers, they proceedecf
to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed y^
sharp shooters, they burnt three houses, a shop, and u
lami killed three more men and wounded one.
Andover
is a amall village, situated on high ground, 20 miles from
Boston, remarkable for the Philips Academy and Theolo^
giciU Seminaryt which are three-fourths of a mile e^st
from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three
large brick buildings, belonging to the Seminary, which
make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the sur*
roundine country, and command a view of great extent,
bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in N.Hampshire,
backed by the Mon&dnoc, about 60 miles ofi*; and in the
south by the Blue Hills. A little elevation near by afibrds
a view of the Atlantic Ocean, from about Newburyport to
Cape Ann, with part of Salem ; and north-west is a dis-
tant 7eak, which is supposed to be Ascutney, in Vermont.
The academical buildings are distinguished by the names
of Philips H»!l, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In the
upper part of the latter is a library of 5 or 6000 volumes.
The Professors' houses are opposite, with a spacious
^Vr^en intervening between the Seminary and the street ;
and there is also a large inn. The Academy and Semina-
ry are not connected, although they are under the super-
intendence of the same board. The term of instruction
in the latter ombraceM three years.
'%^'?'ife'
TKAVELLEK.
297
Haverhill
is a small town, but pleasantly situated, on the north bank
of the Merrimac, the shores of which, for some distance
below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to the water.
A bridge crosses the river, with a roof to protect it from
the weather.
Chelmsford
is one of the principal manufacturing places in the United
States. The Merrimac Company for Printing Cotton
Goods are building large manufactories. They are all to
be of an equal size, like those already in operation, con-
taining 3613 spindles each, with the machinery for pre-
paring the cotton, and also for weaving and dressing the
cloth. There is a large foundery near by, and two manu-
factories are to be built every season. About 2408 yards
of cloth will be made every day, in each of the buildings.
More than 700 dozen of scytfches were made at Farweirs
manufactory in this town, in 1825.
Nashua Village,
in Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the
Nashua River is 65 feet, and the power equal to about
65,000 spindles. Here are soi»e astonishing improvements.
In 1825 there were two great manufactories, each 155 feet
by 48, one for cotton and the other for woollen, with a
dye house 150 by 48, a wood house and machine shop
250 by 30, &c- The buildings for the work people form
small and regular villages.
Dover.
This is one of the principal towns in the state, and con-
tains several manufactories, although the supply of water
is by no means abundant at all seasons. In crossing the
bridge there are seen three large manufactories, each about
200 feet in length ; and the foundation of a fourth was
laid in ''95, although the contracted space afforded on
Dd.2
'">*^s^^'
298
THE NORTHERN
the banks required the blasting out of a great quantity of
rock for the foundation and sluiceways.
CONCORD
is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a very fine and
flourishing town. It is much the largest the traveller will
see before reaching the White Mountains, and for a great
distance beyond them.
Inms. The two principal stage houses, just south of the
state house, are large and commodious — that next the
state house particularly recomtiiended. There are seve-
ral others above and below, though of much inferior pre-
tensions.
The town is situated principally on one street, which is
of a great length and very convenient breadth, with many
respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the Merrimac,
which is at only a short distance on the east.
The State House
occupies a conspicuous situation near the middle of the
town, a little removed from the street, and s|urrounded by
a handsome stone wall, enclosing an area. It is built of
hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edifice, 100
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and on the
second the Senate and Representatives' Chambers, with
the committee rooms, state offices, &c. &c. The view
from the top is extensive, but embraces a tract of country
too little cultivated to be rich, and too unvaried to be
picturesque. At the northward are seen two or three dis-
tinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of the magni-
ficent scenery to be presented to the traveller in that di-
rection.
The State Prison
is built at a short distance from the State House, and bears
a still greater appearance of solidity and strength.
There is an Academy in Concord, with several churches.
No less than four newspapers are printed here, and ga-
zettes from distant places may be found at the inns. Far-
TKAVELLEK.
sidii
mer & Moore's Gazetteer of New-Hampsbire is the best
companion for a traveller in tbis state.
From wbat may have been observed of the granite
rocks along the road, the stranger must have admired
their superior quality, and the freedom and precision
of their fracture, wherever the wedge is judiciously ap-
plied. The fine blocks broken out of the old boulders,
for the post* of fences, as well as for steps, mill stones,
&c. must have shown the excellence of the granite of this
part of the country. The same characteristics, in great-
er or less degrees, will be found to attend the whole of the
granite range of the White Mountains, till its last ap-
pearance about Bath, on Connecticut Kiver. It is un-
common, in this part of the coun;ry, to find a single rock
formation extending such a distance without any interrup-
tion. To what di&rent dates geologists may hereafter
refer the coarsest varieties on Mount Washington, the
disintegrating rocks of Red Mountain, the boulders of
Winnipiseogee Lake, interspersed with their crystals of
iieldspar three or four inches in length, and the white,
iine
/
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23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) •72-4503
'9>
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\
302
THE NORTHERN
from this point. An intermediate peak with rocky preci-
pices may be White-faced Mountain,
East'^ortk'East. Tlie eye ranges up the spacious val-
ley through which lies the way to the White Mountains ;
and the road which is to conduct the traveller seems di-
minished to the dimensions of a garden walk. Chocaway,
or, aa it is familiarly railed, Corrowiiy Peak, rises on the
left ; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee Mountains be-
gins nearer at hand on the right, and almost overshadows
the observer with its enormous size. The sides of these
mountains show a beautiful display of farms, interspersed
with wdod lots and dwellings, which in many places have
encroached far towards the summits, and in others pur-
sue the slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at their
feet Numerous elevations appear at a greater distance,
and range thcmHclves in lines to complete the perspective
of a most magnificent vista, which finally closes at a ridge,
whose shade is reduced by its remoteness to the colour of
a cloud. A prominent and remarkable mountain, which
appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket Moun-
tain, and rises by the Saco River, near the place where
Captain Lovell fought his well-known battle with the In-
dians ; and the fine valley between is the country passed
over in that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the
retreat.
( East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains,
and no variety is afforded till we turn to the
South- South-East. In that dirction, and farther to the
right, the whole surface of WinnipiseogeeLake lies charm-
ingly spread out to view, varied by numerous points and
headlands, and interspersed with beautiful islands which
man despairs to number. Several distant elevations ap-
pear, on this side of which the sloping land just mention-
ed extends for several miles along the shore, with a well-
cultivated surface spotted in all directions with large
barns and farm houses, to the very margin of the lake.
There numerous points run out far into the water, to
complete the labyrinths formed by the islands. Gunstock
Mountain rises one point east of south, just on the left of
which opens the entrance to Merry-meeting Bay. The
elevated island on the right of that is Rattlesnake
Island, named from the venemous reptiles with which it
a^RAVELLER.
303
abounds ; over this the distant land appears high. South
by west rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the
richness of its slopes.
The South- West and West is agreeably varied with
wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated
surface, which extends for many miles, in some places
quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken bounda-
ry of tall but distant mountains. In the south-west ap-
pear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are al-
most lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen
several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching
as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come
near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring
mountains.
Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface
between the west and south, with several other little sheets
of water which lie in tranquillity among the shelter of
the hills.
Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, {torn Centre
Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. Mer-
ry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are
laige, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants,
although only two or three of them belong to any town,
or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake,
Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also, Half Mile, One
Mile, Two Mile Island, &c. &c. None of them contain
churches ; and although they have no school houses, yet
sufficient attention is paid to the rudiments of education
to render the children intelligent.'"
* Winnipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by
Mr. Bddwin.in 1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. It has been
proposed to begin this year a canal from Merry-meeting River,
at tne south end, to Dover, a distance of 28 miles, and to con-
tinue the naviration throu|h this lake, and Long, Square, and
Little SquawXakes, to Merrimac River, makii^ in all a dis-
tance of 65 miles. It will be necessary to raise the lake two
feet by a dam at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of about
17 feet for 7 miles. The estimates have been made for a canal
of these dimensions : 25 feet wide at the bottom, 4 feet of water,
with stone locks 12 feet in the clear and 82 feet Ions. It will
require 60 locks, which will cost ^56,500 each, and the cost
304
THE NORTHERN
S^VAM Lake
lies west from Red Mountain, and like Winnipiseogee
LaJce, abounds not only in islands, but in fish of the finest
descrq;»tion8. Fine trout are caught here in great abun<
dance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake.
The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake vary from 1 to 4 pounds
in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 4 and
10. They are sometimes caughi of nearly double that
size ; but that is very uncommon. The trout fishery is
chiefly carried on during the winter, when great quanti-
ties are salted for the Boston market. Perch also abound
Tery much in these waters, and are remarkably fine.
Geology.
\
The sides of Red Mountain are covered with half de-
composed granite. (On the south-eastern side of the lake
a bed of porcelain clay has been discovered, which is
probably derived from a similar source.) The granite is
speckled with hornblende and black mica. No rocks to
be seen in sUu except near the summit, where they bear a
gentle dip towards the north, and are sightly tinged with
reddish quartz and feldspar.
The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the
mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose
fragments ; and musquetoes and black flies often abound
there.
A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very agree-
ably, in making shooting and fishing excursions in the
neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the lake, which abounds
in the most interesting variety of scenes. On leaving
this place by water, at the distance of five miles the
from the lake to Dover is computed at $590,982. If con-
tinued through the lakes to Merrimac River, to meet a canal
from Baker's River, the expense would be increased to about
$731,478. At that point, uie distance from the Connecticut
by Baker's River, is 34 miles. The facilities these works
would afford for manufacturing would be very valuable, but
the number rtf locks will be a great objection.
TRAVELLER.
305
White Mountains rite into view above the intermediate
peakff and oontinae. in sight quite across the liJce.
A fow dteer att> still found in tome phmet in the neigh-
bourhood, but being protected by law, and still more by
their scarcity, are very rarely Udien.
;♦ »y I J
From Centre Harbour to Comwat,
18 miles.
ij
Proceeding north-east from Centre Harbour, you enter
the Talley between the two chains of mountains seen from
the top of Red Hill. The surface is irregular, and much
of the land uncleared ; but settlements have extended far
up the sides of some of the mountains, and farms are oc-
casionally discovered quite at the top. The features of
the scenery are bold and striking.
Eaton Mbctino House. Two miles northwardly
from this, Ossipee Lake may be seen by leaving the road ;
but it has nothing very interesting in its appearance.
CONWAT.
At Conway, there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, at the
dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, although
heretofore without a tavern si^n. The view of the White
Mountains is very fine from this place, presenting a suc-
cession of lofty ridfi^ea, the most distant of which are the
peaks of Mounts JVashir^ton, *^danu, Jefferson, Maditonf
Moi\roe, and Q,uiney, The most prominent elevation on
the ri^ht, with two summits, ia Kearsearge, or Pickwa-
ket : a level meadow lies in the foreground, with an iso-
lated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, which
rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a narrow
valley, with many meanderings.
The shortest road IVom Conway to the mountains leads
directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as well as the
most agreeable route is by the way of Fryebui^h, where
will be seen the beautiful tract of level country through
which meanders the Saco River ; and the great Pickwaket
Mountain, which rises from its border. That was the
beautiful and favourite residence of the nation of Pick-
E e
SdG
THE NORTHERN
*
vniktt Indiani, and on the bank of LoVepB Pond was
fought a bloody battle between them and a company of
troops from Massachasettsy in the year 1785| just a cen-
tury ago.
[It is probable that a road will soon be made round the
north end of the White Mountains, through the town of
Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is leyel in that di-
rection, along the course of the Androscoggin, and the
distance to Lancaster nearly the same. Whenever it
shall be completed, it will ofier a very agreeable route to
the traveller, with fine views, but not so wild as those on
the present route.]
• a k
,t\'\ I'l'
The Chaltbbatb Spring. '.*\^t''p
Turn off from the road to the west about 2 miles north
of Abbett's, ford the Saco, and enter a field, where it is
found. A house is kept in the neighbourhood by Mrs.
McMiUan, which has been lately overflowing with visit-
ers during the warm season. The country abounds in
scenes attractive to persons of taste. A little church is
situated in a secluded and romantic valley ; and the place
is probably destined for a fashionable resort.
The place is off the road, and often missed. It is in a
valley, with mountains on every side except the south-
east. From near the church, the White Mountains
are in sight. Two or three miles above, the Saco
valley bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a
narrower one in front. Up the course of this stream
was formerly a route by which the highest peaks were as*
cended. A foot path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to
Shelbume, &c. It is 7 miles to Hall's, in Bartlett.
Frtebitrgh.
'iJ:.i
The situation of this place is no less singular than de-
lightrul ; and there are some interesting circumstances
connected with its history which greatly enhance the ef-
fect of the natural scenery. The township of Fryeburgh,
in its extent of six square miles, embraces a rich and
beautiful valley, secluded on every side by a wild and
mountainous range of country, as it is almost surroundcO
TRAVBLLEB.
m
by spun of the White Hills, whose proiimity seems firom
some points of view hardly to permit the passage of the
narrow stream of the Saco. The river, taking its rise on
Mount Washington, and flowing through the Notch in the
White Hills, passes down the valley to Conway, where it
finds the termination of the southern range ; and then
turning abruptly to the east, soon enters the charming
meadows of Fryebuigh, and performs a serpentine course
of no less than 36 miles within the limits of the town-
ship. The village is nent, and contains several very
handsome houses, with an academy, &c.
Tbr Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western
side of the village, which commands a view of the Saco
▼alley six miles up its course, and six miles down. It
was the favourite resort of the Pickwaket Indians, whicb^
in the beginning of the last century, committed depreda*
tions and atrocities upon the frontiers of New-Hampshire',
then a part of Massachusetts. The meadows here at that
period abounded in game of all sorts : for connected with
the river are numerous ponds or lakes, from 1 to 7 miles
in length, and some of them 8 in breadth, which were
well stocked with fish and water fowl, as the shores were
with birds and beasts, even to the moose and buffiJo. It
is confidently asserted, that the river, with the ponds and
their outlets, afforded a canoe navigation of 100 miles or
more in eitent, between the entrance of the Sa^o into
the township and its departure, although those two points
ere only 2 miles apart The channel of this river has
been shortened 19 miles by cutting through a narrow
ridge of land during a high flood about 80 years ago. ^ ^.^
Lovbl's Pond
is on the isthmus, about 1 mile south-east from the village,
and is memorable as the scene of one of the most severe
and disastrous battles in the old partizan warfare against
the Indians.
The Portland Road passes along the western side of
the pond, and at present aflbrds a view of it only from
that part of tlie high ground which is near its north end.
This, however, was the place of the action. Ailother
308
TH£ NOBTHERN
roftd niiw rary near the north ahore ; and it ia a pleaiant
ride to the place.
Lotbl'8 Expbditiok.
In 1725, Captain Lovel waa indnced to undertake a ae-
«fet expedition through the wildernesa asainat the Piek-
waket tribe of Indiana, who, inatigated by the French,
had committed many depredationa on the frontier, ao that
the general court of Maaaachuaetta had offisred 100 pounds
each for their acalpa. Hia company eonaieted of 30 or 40
men, many of them aceuatomed to the life of hardy hunt-
Ma and aettlera, with young Mr. Frye for their chaplain,
whoae hiatory waa aomewhat romantic, and from whom
thia town iecei?ed ita name.
l%ey naaaed up Winnipiaeogee Lake» then to Oaaipee
Pond, where they built a block houae, and placed their
•torea ; then follewing up the courae of the Saco, en-
camped at the Inouth of Mill Brook» at the north-weat
eovner of LofoHa Poiid, on the night precedii^ the bat-
tle, intending to cfoaa the iathmua, (which ia reduced
by the pond to Uie breadth of 11 milea,) and faH upon the
Indian Fort. It happened, however, that the Indiana had
gone down the Saco Biter, haTingi aa ia conjectured,
eome aaapieion of a hoatile deaign ; and on their return,
diacoverin|( tracka^ puraued them towarda Lovel'a Pond.
The white men, without knowing the enemy were be-
ynd them, were a(ttendin|s morning prayera, when they
kowd a gun fired by a aolitary Indian on the oppoaite aide
of the Fond, who had left the fort, and waa ahootiog
ducka. They might have marched on and taken the fort ;
but auj^poaing tliia to be a aignal oi their discovery, they
went a little way, and depositing their packs, aoon after
diacovered the Indian, and mortally wounded bim. He
bad two ducks in hia hand, and two fowling pieces, one
of which being still loaded, he levelled at Level, and shot
him. 'uitij-^i
The party now perceived that the Indian was alone,
and returned ; but the great body of Indians having dis-
covered the encampment, and the way they had gone,
removed their packs, and forming an ambush around the
place, fired upon them on their return, and killed eight
TUAVELLEK.
.m
iiicu. The ground was an open pine plain, with occa-
sionallj a few shrubs and oaks, much as it is at pre-
sent. The white men retreated. At the north-east cor^
ner of the pond, is a narrow strip of land, bounded by a
swamp on the north, the mouth of Fight Brook on the
east, and the water on. the south : the brook and swamp
were at that time full, and impassable. Here they took
position behind scattering trees, and defended themselves
till night. The Indians wounded a few, but dared not come
upon the neck, only shooting from behind trees on three
sides of them.
Chamberlain, a man of great vigour, courage, and ex-
perience in Indian manners, took the command after
the loss of Level ; and by his exertions, probably, saved
all who finally escaped* Seeing that the Indians annoy-
ed them from a little rocky projection on the shore west
of their position, he approached with another among the
rocks, and drove them back. Afterwards, while washing
bis gun on the margin, he discovered Paugus, the Indian
chief, employed in the same manner on the shore west of
him, on the other side of a little bay. Having hunted
together, they were personally acquainted ; and on a pro-
position being made, it was agreed to exchange shots.
Both loaded as expeditiously as possible ; but Chamber-
Iain, having a gun with a lai^e priming hole, merely
poured in his powder, dropped in the ball, and knocking
the butt on the ground to fill the pan, fired just as Pougus
was bringing his piece to his eye, and shot him tl f cugh.
The Indian sprung to a great height from the groun" as
he received the fatal ball, and his gun fired in the air as
he fell dead on the beach.
The Indians retired on the loss of their chief; but
Chamberlain soon learnt from their yelling in the woods,
that they were preparing another warrior to succeed him
in authority. Cautiously approaching them through the
darkness of the evening, he discovered the powaws, or
priests, consecrating the chief elect ; he shot him dead on
the spot, while their hands were upon his head. This
dispersed the Indians, and the remains of the unfortunate
expedition returned through the forest, suffering from
hunger and fatigue, and some of them from wounds. One
of the first wounded escaped by getting into a canoe,
E e 2
310
THE NOUTHERN
which was driven across the pond by a north wind ; but
a ftigitive, who reached the block bouse at Os«ipee
Lake, reported that the expedition had been entirely cut
off, so that the garrison hastily removed the provisions,
and thus increased the suiTerings of the survivors.
In conformity with a very commendable custom lately
introduced into this country, the centennial return of the
day of this battle was celebrated at Fryeburgh in 1825.
An old man, who had learnt many of the particulars from
some of the members of the expedition, led the inhabit-
ants and strangers assembled to the ground, and pointed
out the spots where the circumstances occurred which he
recounted.
The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland passes
through Fryeburgh early in the morning, one or perhaps
more days in the week, and arrives at P. the same even-
ing, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and Gorham.
The coach to Concord goes through Conway.
[Paris is a pleasant and flourishing town, about 35
miles east from Fryebuigh ; but the roads and the inns in
that part of the country are generally poor.]
Bartlbtt is a comfortable village, situated in a rich
valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view is
bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. The
inn of the place is kept by ' Judge Hall.' There is another
interval among the mountains westward, which, although
it contains as much good cleared land, has been converted
into a common, in consequence of the difficulty of making
a good road to it. Pursuing still the course of the nar-
row valley, against the carrent of the Saco, the country
is found uncleared, except two or three pretty little mea-
dows ; and destitute of inhabitants, excepting only three
or four poor families, until arriving at
'I a
Crawford's Farm,
seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the
traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably entertained,
although the house does not wear the sign of an inn.
This is the place from which visiters formerly began their
excursions to the summit of the mountains : but the best
place is at Ethan ^. Crmtifwrd^s fimn^ 12 miles beyond.
XRAV£LL£U.
311
Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre-
sent! itself to view a little before arriving at the tirst
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown
moss, rising several hundred feet above the redon of ve-
getation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these
firom the other elevations.
The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as
to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely
to be found a few miles further north. The foresti
are here formed of spruee, ash, beech, maple, sugar ma-
ple, &c. Mr. Crawford has about 100 acres cleared, and
raises Indian corn very well, which will not come to ma-
turity beyond. His orchard contains 700 apple trees.
This is one of the principal stopping places for the
sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers du-
ring the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. There are
sometimes 80 horses in the barn. i,
The Notch House
is situated in a secluded little valley, about 5 miles north
of Crawford's, and is the only building seen in a distance
of 18 miles. It is, however, never inhabited during the
stunmer season, though t^n, with its cheerless shelter,
to all comers: in the winter a family occupies it to keep
a fire, lodgings, and a little food, provided for the travel-
lers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish for want
oi the necessaries of life.
The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth culti-
vating; and although the place has been occupied by
several tenants, no one will keep the house in repair,
even rent firee. There are no good uplands, the soil Ucre
being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly colder Uian
at the last stopping place.
The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable
dutanee before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller
observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous
mountain, a^ a distance on the west side of the valley,
and the other, which is called
' w:->*.*"»
312
TH£ NORTHERN
The Flume,
rushing down on the right hand, and crossing the road
under a bridse. The scenery is sublime and impressive
beyond description.
' ' Tub Notch
is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path
and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet
in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and the Am-
monoosuc spring from fountains on Mount Washington,
within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though the former
empties into the Atlantic, and the latter joins Connecti-
cut River. Another branch of the Ammonoosud ap-
proaches the Saco in one place, within about 600 yards.
They are both crossed beyond the Notch. The head
waters of the Merrimac rise within about a mile and a
half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, little
less remarkable than that of the Saco.
Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable passage,
one 20, and the other about 30 feet, in perpendicular
height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 yards
from the north end ; where they open to 30 feet. The
part which appears to have been cut through is about 120
feet long. A little meadow opens beyond ; and after a
ride of 4} miles, the traveller reaches a comfortable house,
just completed by Mr. E. A. Crawford, where he will be
received and entertained.
A road was first made through the Notch in 1785. It
was 50 or 60 feet higher than the present turnpike, and
80 steep that it was necessary to draw horses and widens
up with ropes. The assessment for the turn^^ike was made
in 1806.
■|:
Ethan Crawford^s House
is the place where thqse who meditate the ascent of
Mount Washington, will stop for a day or more. The
master of the house will act as a guide, and is well quali-
fied for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with
the way, and the various kind attentions and amusing;
TRAVELLER, a
913
aoecdotta with which he knowi how to relioTO tho (e-
diooMOM of the uccot. The beit arrtngement it to eet
otti in the efteniooii, epend the iiigbt at the weekwam or
" Cmf,** aaeoDd the mountain early in the morning, to
have the beneAl of the view by tnn riae, and return to
Crawford*! before the entning oTening.
MOUNT WASHINGTON.
The aaeent of the mountain was formerly a most ardu-
one undertaking, and was very rarely performed, though
three ladies have lately been enumerated among those
who gained the summit. The whole way lies through %
perfect forest. A foot path has been made hT Mr. Craw-
iwd, which, however, is impassable for a horse. Tho
Unt seven miles are over a surface comparatively level ;
hat the last two miles and a quarter are up an ascent not
iiftring much from an angle of forty-five degrees.
The time to perform the different parts of this ezcur*
iioB may be estimated as follows :
hours.
From Crawford's to the Camp, ........ 6) m. S
Theneo to the summit, S miles and 93 rods, S or 2^
Returning from summit to Camp, li
Thence to Crawford's, 2}
The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to
be crossed seven times, add not a little to ibe inconvo;
niences of the journey ; but a comfortable bed, and a fire,
(if the weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at
THiCAiir, i
6) miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of different
kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful
fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season
is favourable, a dish of fine trout may soon be obtained
from the romantic little stream which dashes by within
twenty yards of the encampment*.
The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand,
and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to attain
the summit, which seems to fly before the stranger when
he deems it just attained, and to look down in derision
$14 THE NORTHERN
from a new and more hopeless height The first part of
the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, which
is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and knarled
fir-trees, lOor 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or about 450 yards
broad i which, ending as suddenly as they began, give
place to a kind of sfejrt bushes, and finally a thin bed of
moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense granite
rocks which deform the surface* For more than a mile,
the surface is entirely destitute of trees. A few straggling
spiders, and several species of little flowering plants tre
the only olijects that attract the attention, under the feet.
The following heights are stated to be those of the dif-
ferent peaks, above the level of Connecticut River at
Laficantsn .nmn arrth «ti
Washington, .15,350
Jefi*erson, ...6,t61
Adams, 5,383
Madison,. • 5,03a
Monroe, 4,932
Quincy, 4,470
Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6400
feet above the ocean.
In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and almost
boimdiess. The finest part of It lies towards the toulft-
ea»t and soutlh Looking down the valley, through which
the road has conducted us, a fine succession of mountain-
ous summits appear for many miles below the br^ht sur-
fece of Winnipiseogee Lake.
Towards the soutk-eatt tdso, the eye ranges over an ex-
tent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Moun-
tains, hills, and valleys, farm bouses, villages, and towns,
add tiieir variety to tiie natural features of Uie countiy ;
and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the
help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight perhaps
has never been able to distinguish it without such assist-
ance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of
Maine ; and nearer, Level's Pond.
On the norlA-ea»( is seen the valley of the Androscog-
gin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery,
and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in their
hostile incursions from Canada, used td approach the
eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and New-
V TRAVELLER. T
ail
Halnpshire. Beyond, an the Ktvdin Hills, near the ex-
tremity oC Maine*
JVbvlA, the country is more wild and nncultiyated ; and
Umbsgog Lake is,Men, from which flows the Androscog-
gin.
Westf the nearer Wew is OTcr a mountainous r^on,
eorered with a thick fonest, through which only an occ»>
sional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills
are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut
River, the surface of which is every where hidden f^m
view, and the summits, rising higher and higher, terminate
in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont
i Scuih'Westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock.
The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name
of Agincocl^ook, and regarded them as inaccessible, or at
least represented them so to white men.
>W.;i'i.'.
The Lake of the Clouds
iiio*,'Pi
8' I a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of
eautiful clear water ; and supplies the head stream of
the Ammonoosuc River. This little current immediately
begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of
several thousand feet, into the valTey near the encamp*
meot.
'■ 4 ■ »'•-
i-i ii ,U (;- ^^
i«y*; ^V ;i'''^ A&^^a-J :r i:iA-.'y"'h
Geology,
i-"
Loose fragments of granite are every where scattered
over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The
granite is generally gray, and at first fine grained, but
grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled
with small garnets. At the summit it frequently contains
a little black tourmaline, sometimes in crossing crystals.
On the summit abo, some of the granite is tinged with
red, although much of it is coloured bright green by lich-
ens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, and inter-
spersed with thick and soft gray moss. The grain of the
coarse granite is elongated ; and what strikes the visiter
as very singular, is, that not a single rock is to be found
in its original' place — every thing bears the mark of re-
moval ; and this, taken into view with the precipice on
31U
THE NORTHERN
the northern side, seems to indicate that the summit of
the mountain has fallen down and diiappearad.
(Jbncral Rbmarks.
All tniTellers of taste and leisure will be deshrous of
spending some time among the impressife scenery of these
stupendous mountains ; and as the accommodations fw
strangers hecome enlarged and improved, the place cannot
fiul to attract great numbers of visiters.
Those who take delight in scenes of thus descriptioni
always ftel an additional gratification when they can re-
flect, that the mountains around them are the highest,
and the region the most wHd and uninhalnted. In such
Teflections -the traveller may indulge among the < White
Hills : for although the peaks of Ktardin, and Bj^kkd
Mountain, in Maine, have been, by some, compwed with
Mount Washington ; it has been done on mere conjec-
ture, and with little appearance of probability. The ge-
neral belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above
us is the highest elevation in North America, except
Mexico ; although some of the Rocky Mountains are but
little inferior. The inhospitable nature of the climate is
such as to forbid all hopes of future improvement ; so
that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the lonely and
desolate character of this desert region, is increaselyl by
the reflection, that it is destined to be a wilderness for
ever.
The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart
of the mountains, are the little meadows inhabited by
the Crawfords, and that at the **»N*otch House ;^ and
there the interval of warm weather is so short in the
year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with all
the rapidity of growth which distinguishes such cold
regions. Indeed, the shortness and uncertainty of crops,
with the expense of keeping stock, &c. would scarcely
allow the farmer a support, without the advantages afibrd-
cd by the thoroughfare which is particularly great during
the winter season. Population, therefore, may extend to
the borders of these regions, and increase, as it does, on
every side ; but it cannot pass the limit, because it can-
iTot contend with their coldness and rterilitv.
TRAVELLER.
317
To those Tvho are fond of field sports, the forests and
rivers afford every advantage, during the brief summer
which visits the valleys. Various kinds of wild birds and
game are to be found in the woods, beside the bearsi
wild cats, and deer. The moose and buffalo were for«
merly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarcely
thirty years since they were killed in great numbers,
merely for their hides and tallow ; as the latter still
are in the deserts beyond the Mississippi. Deer are
common in the woods, and frequently are killed by the
hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the
little meadow before Crawford's house, and quietly graze
with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally seen in
the more unfrequented places ; but they will always en-
deavour to avoid a man. A large species of deer, here
known by the name of the Cariboo, has made its appear-
ance in the White Mountains within a few years ; but
they are still very few in this part of the country. >
The weather is liable to frequent changes in the moun-
tainous region, which is partly owing to the vicinity of
the Miteht through which the wind blows, almost without
ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still at only a short
distance from it. From the situation of the mountains,
it is impossible that the direction of the wind should vary
materially in the valley ; and it is therefore, of course,
always north or south. During the winter it is often
very violent, so that not only the snow is prevented from
lying on the path at the Notch ; byt the surface is swept
of every thing that a strong wind can remove.
The summits of the mountains are frequently invested
with mist, when the skj is clear ; and those only who in-
habit the vicinity, are able to tell whether the day is to be
favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes collect
in the valleys, and then present some of the most singular
and beautiful appearances.
Ethan Crawford's is 4i miles from the Notch, 12 from
his father's : and on the other side, 6 from Rosebrook's.
Roads. There are two roads hence, to Connecticut
River; one over Cherry Mountain (quite laborious) to
Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton Woods,
Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to Bath, 34
Jnilep. f.SVc hufer.]
918
THE NOUTUEUN
TOUR OF MAINE.
A line of Steam Navigation was commenced in 1823^
between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and extended in
1824, about 260 miles from Bath to Eastport in one di-
rection, and about 40 miles to Augusta in another ; and
in 1386, again about ' miles from Eastport to St. John's,
in New- Brunswick, by proprietors residing at Eastport;
and from St. John's up the River St. John's about 80 miles
to Frederickton, by proprietors residing at St. John's ; and
in another direction by the Eastport proprietors, from
Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic to St. Andrew's
and Calais. Two boats were afterwards put upon a line
firom Eastport to Annapolis and Windsor, in Nova Scotia.
Another boat is to run from Eastport to DennisTille,
a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The line before occupied,
including all its collateral branches and ramifications, ex-
ceeds 600 miles, and is now about 700 miles.
It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across
Cape Ann, to admit the steam boats, which will savi^ 13
miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, d^rCvCi^
or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newburyport,
Portsmouth, Dover, and Keniiebunk.
The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so
near the shore as to afford many interesting views of
the numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound
along the coast In 1825, the steam brig New- York was
on this line, and the price was, from Boston to Portland,
$5 ; thence to Eastport, $6, with a deduction for forward
passengers.
There are coaches going to Salem every hour in tlie
morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve-
nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well
worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient,
the stranger would be gratified with several rides in the
vicinity of that place, particularly to Marblehead.
Ltnn, 9 mUeaJrom Boston,
This town is devoted to making shoes ; great numbers
of which are annually exported. Each house, almost
without exception^ has a little shop connected with it, in
TRAVELIER.
319
which the men and boys employ themselyes in thu muiu*
facture.
The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been
made, is in thu town, and lies on the way to the fashion-
able retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering an
eicellent natural road, but is impassable at high water.
The bay on which it looks is one of the places where the
famous sea serpent was seen several years ago.
There is a good inn in the town, where the stage coach-
es stop.
The country beyond is rather hilly and uninteresting ;
but the road is good.
');• 'i:,:.
Beyerlt
is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparently to
form a part of it. It has a long street through which we
pass, nearly at the foot of a high, barren hill. This emi-
nence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; as it is
the spot where numerous persons condemned for that
crime, in Salem, were executed.
J.' '*>'..
SALEM.
The La Fayette Hotel.
• This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beauti*
ful towns in New- England. It was one of the earliest
settlements made in Massachusetts Bay ; and the planting
of the colony is annually celebrated. Go?ernor Endicott,
one of the most distinguished individuals in the early his-
tory of this part of the country, resided here.
Salem was for many years engaged in an extensive and
lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and the
appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it still
contains a great deal of wealth. The harbour is fine, and
the wharves still well supplied with stores ; but the trade
of the place has materially diminished. The streets are
generally too narrow ; but the banks, insurance offices,
and churches, are many of them handsome buildings.
The Square is a large and beautiful tract of ground, near
the centre of the town. About it are seen many of
the finest private buildings in the place, which, indeed.
OM
THE NORTHERN
may be compared for size and elegance, with those in any
part of the United States.
The Jtfisrine Muaetim is an institution highly creditable
to the town, being an association of respectable nautical
and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose of
making useful observations, and collecting curiosities from
all quarters of the world. No one can become a member
who has not doubled Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good
Hope, either as master or supercargo of a vessel ; and
each of them is supplied with a journal, in which he is to
note down such remarks as he tbSnks important, during
his voyages. These are submitted to the inspection of a
committee ; and the curiosities brought home are deposit-
ed in a handsome building belonging to the society, which
is well worthy of the particular attention of strangers.
Access is readily gained by application to any of the
members: this extensive and highly interesting cabinet
beii^ closed only for the purpose of security, and no fee
being required for admission. The room is large, and
well lighted, and filled with curiosities from ail quarters
of the world, and many specimens belonging to all the
branches of natural history. The arrangement is made
with great taste, and several hours, or indeed days, will
hardly be sufficient for an examination of all it contains.
The top of the hotel commands a fine and extensive
view, over the town and its environs, with the harbour,
and the fine coves which set up on both sides. A project
has been formed for connecting the two bodies of water
which form the peninsula, by means of a canal, which
would furnish great, and very desirable manufacturing
facilities.
jju^" •-Tf sait^V- 1 tut v.; •..-i^ vii<
uf^i ,bfl* r#Ri.O: . Marblehead. ■ ; ■ '
There is a good road to this town, which stands at the
end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from Sa-
lem. It contains a handsome square, and some very good
houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fishermen, whose
manner of life precludes in, a great degree, the intellec-
tual improvement generally so characteristic of New- Eng-
land. The harbour is a small bay, protected by barren
rocks, and afibrds shelter to the numerous fishing schoo-
TRAVELLER.
331
Iters employed in the Cod fishery. The men and boys
are abtient from home a great part of the year ; as each
vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, or **fares,V as
they are here called, every season. They lie on the Banks
until they have caught a load of fish, which are opened
and salted as soon as taken. The vessels then return,
and the fish are spread to dry on wooden frames, called
flakes ; great numbers of which will be seen on the shore.
There is a fort at the extremity of the town, which com-
mands the entrance to the harbour, and affords a view of
many miles over the neighbouring sheets of water. The
islands at the entrance of Salem are wild and rocky ; and
the sea breaks over them with violence in an easterly
storm. Towards the south are seen several headlands
of this iron-bound coast ; which for a great eiteut, even
down to the extremity of Massachusetts, must have ap-
peared one of the most inhospitable to the pilgrims, who
began their settlements on this part of New-England.
Newburtport.
Stage House or Merrimac Hotel, on the hill. This is a
large, and to a considerable extent a regularly built town,
38 miles from Boston. The greater part of it lies in
squares, and the best streets are built entirely of brick.
What is commonly called Newburyport, however, is com-
posed of two distinct towns. The original township of
Newbury includes that part, which reaches to within
about a quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the rest, a
mile along the water, where the wharves, the market
building, most of the stores, shops, &c. are found, is all
which is properly speaking called Newburyport, although
there is no division but an imaginary line.
The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at
the head of a street running to (he river.
The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a brisk
and lucrative commerce ; but it has suffered severely iVom
two great fires, within a few years, and still more from
circumstances which cut off" the trade. A plan b now ma-
turing for the improvement of tbe navigation of the Mer-
rimac, which, if carried into effect, can hardly fail to pro-
Ff 2
:m.
398
THE NORTHERN
duce results of great importance to the place. The falls
at HaverhQl cut off the boat navigation, at the distance of
about 12 miles ; but if these were avoided by a canal, the
water communication would be opened to Concord, and a
great part of the products now sent to Boston, by the
Middlesex Canal, would come to Newburyport. It is es-
timated, that the work would cost about two hundred
thousand dollars, and that the water power it would fur-
nish for machinery might be sold for about an equal sura.
Stage Coaches. The mail coach from Boston for
Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M.
There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels only
by day light. The Concord coach leaves here about noon.
The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a tavern, about
half a mile from the stage house, on the road to Ports-
mouth. The garden was formerly curiously ornamented
with wooden statues of dintrnguisbed individuals.
The bridge over the Merrimac has a little rocky island
for its buttress. The current is strong, and just north of
it are several places where the channel appears once to
have been.
'; Hampton, 10 miZcs.
Portsmouth,
62 miles from Boston, 5S from Portland,
Brown's Stage House.
The environs of the ^own show many neat and pleasant
houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is principally
of brick, with some handsome public buildings, although
the streets are generally too narrow. It has been a place
of much commerce. The old church is a specimen of old
times. The Navy Yard, on an island opposite the town,
contains two large ship buildings, one for frigates and the
other for line-of>battle ships.
The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state of
Maine, which was, until within three or four years, a dis-
trict of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. The
navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, &c.
Amesburt. The two Flannel Manufactories, seen at a
distance on the west, (on the Powaw River, which has
TRAVELLER.
333
a fall of 30 or 40 feet,) were expected to manufacture in
1826, more than 20,000 pieces of flannel : in all a million
of yards.
The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, ge-
nerally very poor, without trees, and changing only from
sand to rocks ; and affords very few objects of interest,
except an occasional view of the sea shore, and several
spots remarkable for their connexion with the history of
the country.
York.
There are some pleasant fields about this little place,
but its size is insignificant, particularly when contrasted
with anticipations formed of its destiny at the time of its
first settlement : for the ground was laid out for a city,
and the divisions of the land still retain much of the regu-
lar form given it by the first surveyors.
The Nubble is a rocky point, 4^ miles from York,
with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in de-
rision, the city, or metropolis of Gape Neddock, from a
point of that name still further on.
While travelling along this dreary country, near the
place where a round bill of a peculiar appearance first
presents itself in front, and then the ocean, the road
passes the site of an old fort or block house, built before
Philip's war. Nothing is now to be seen of it from the
road, excepting a part of the old wall, which is built of
large stones, laid with greater regularity than is practised
now. A hovel stands near the wall, shaded by a few
trees, about 100 yards west of the road.
The Agamenticus Hills form a range some distance
west.
Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de-
fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a
rock ; but it is almost dry at low water.
Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on the
beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise Point is just
distinguishable in the north-east ; and the view o( the sea
is fine and refreshing.
Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which falls
324
THE NORTHEUN
a small stream, from the heigbt of 30 feet, aljotit 40 yardi;
from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, a small tribe
of In4ians met an indiscriminate destruction, in the fo|.
lowing manner. Being on their return from their annual
fishing excursion on the upper part of the stream, they des-
patched some of their number to make a fire on the rock
which divides the falls, as they found they should not reach
this place before night. The white men in the neighbour-
hood by some means learning their design, shot the mes-
sengers, and then collectidg the limbs of trees, made a
great fire on the high bank below on the opposite side of
the road. The Indians, says the story, being deceived,
did not attempt to stop their canoes in season, and were
all carried over the falls and killed. A similar tale is re-
lated, with more appearance of credibility, of the falls on
the Androscoggin River.
The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of
a mile northerly from the church. The site is distin-
guished by the angle of an old wall, built of large, regular,
but unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The
marks of the foundation appear to be yet visible a little
back, and the situation is very pleasant,with a smooth plain
around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little mea-
dow, where the settlers used to obtain their hay. The
ocean is in full view below. This little fortress was
once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first supposed,
as was the fact, that the men were absent from home.
The place was, however, very bravely and successfully de-
fended by five women, who put on their husbands clothes,
and fired so wi^mly upon their invaders, as to force them
to retreat.
Kenmbbunk, 25 miles from Portland. Here the mail
coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small
place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade
ivith the West Indies.
Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this
village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount
Washington. Cutts*s Island of 75 acres divides the stream,
just at the falls, and is to be converted to manufacturing
purposes.
The soil here is very rocky, easily furnishing ma-
terials for building, which has already commenced on
mk
TRAVELLER.
335
A large scale. The fall is about thirty feet, the water
abundant at all seasons, and a landing place for vesselfl
only a few yards distant, which will greatly favour the
transportation of raw and manufactured articles. The
land bought in 1925 on the island, with a portion of the
water power, cost about $100,000. Great quantities
«f timber have long been sawn at these falls.
PORTLAND, 15 mi7««.
Mitchell's Hotel. The Stage house.
The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occupy-
ing the ridge and side of a high point of land with a hand-
some, though shallow bay, on one side, and the harbour
on the other. The anchorage is protected on every side
by land, the water is deep, and the communication with
the sea direct and convenient. Congress-street runs along
the ridge of the hill, and contains a number of very ele-
gant private houses. There is also the Town Hall, with
the market below, aud a beautiful new church, with gra-
nite columns. The steps are fine blocks of granite,
6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry at Brunswick, 22
miles distant, and cost about $40 each. This street rises,
as it approaches the end of the neck or promontory, to the
Observatory f a tower 82 feet high, and, with its base, 142
feet above the water, which commands an extensive and
very fine view on every side.
From the Observatory, south and south-west are se-
veral distant eminences : among others, the Agomenticus
Hills ; north'West are seen, in clear weather, the lofty
ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New-Hampshire,
which are discovered at sea, often before the nearer land
appears in sight. The country on the north presents little
that is interesting, and the water nearer at hand is only
an inlet of the sea.
Cape Elizabeth is the high land on the south side of
the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its en-
trance, are called Bangs's and House Islands. Fort Pre-
ble stands on* the former, and Fort Scammel, only a block
house, on the latter. It is proposed by the United States
326
THE NOUTIIERN
to expend $165,000 in enlarging these defences. Due
east is Seguin Light House, which is visible, in clear wea-
ther, 33 miles distant, at the mouth of the Kennebec.
Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie numerous islands of
various forms and divided by little channels and bays,
some of which are deep. They are generally covered
with trees and rocks, but present a beautiful variety to
the view in that direction. Their number is not known,
but is usually estimated at 365, to correspond with that of
the days in the year.
The entrenchments on the hill, west of the obsenratorr,
belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were made m
the Revolutionary war. Under the bluflT, on the water^s
edge, is Fort Burroughs.
Falmouth (the former name of Portland,) was burnt
in the Revolutionary war, by Capt. Mowatt, in the Bri-
tish sloop of War Canceau, on the 18th of October, 1775,
on the refusal of the inhabitants to deliver up their arms.
About 130 houses, three-quarters of all the place con-
tained, were consumed, some being set on fire with
brands, alter a cannonade and bombardment of 9 hours.
The old church is among the buildings saved, and has the
mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitchell's
hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed.
There are some fine stores and dwelling houses in the
middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves
and shipping : for the place is beginning to prosper again,
although it has lost an extensive trade which it cannot
recover. There is a small JHuseum in the place.
Remarks to thb Traveller at Portland. The
Boston Mail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, and
reaches Boston at 9 P. M. the Accommodation at 8, and
arrives next day, stopping for the night at Portsmouth.
The communication with Dover, Concord, &c. is easy,
and the traveller going in that direction, is referred to the
index for those and other places in his way. He may take
the route to the White Hills by Fryeburgh ; the road
leads through a wild and thinly populated country, hn* is
not devoid of interest. The stage coach reaches Conway
in a day by this route, passing through Gorham, Standi^li,
Baldwin, Hiram, and Fryeburgh.
>t
Kk^kl
TUAVELLER.
327
TUo eastern and north
tions of the grounds may give an idea of its original ap-
pearance. The approach to the house is through a cy-
press grove ; and in front of it extends a handsome grass
plat. General Knox was one of Washington's principal
officers, and acted a conspicuous part in the Revolutionary
war.
From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road
is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, with
a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated country
on the left, with some mountainous scenes. Belfast is a
flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the side of a hill.
The road hence to Castine, round the bay, is 35 miles,
passing through Prospect, Buckport, Orland and Penob-
scot.
(Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, and
the British entrenchments are to be seen on the hill
above.)
The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the course
of the Penobscot River.
Bangor
13 a very flourishing village, newly risen into import-
ance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of tho
interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a commanding
position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to ex-
perience a gr(:at and rapid increase, proportioned to the
extension of settlements in the upper country. The
number of inhabitants increased between 1820 and
1825, from 1221 to 2002. The scenery here begins
to assume much of that mountainous character, which
prevails so extensively through a large part of the in-
terior. ▲ very conspicuous and noble eminence is ob-
served at a distance in the north, called Ktardin JVfounta^n,
the elevation of which has never, it is believed, been ac-
332
THE NOUTIIEUN
curately ascertained. It is considered the highest land
in the state, and has been compared for altitude with
Mount Washington in N. Hampshire : whether with Jus-
tice or not, a scientific measurement will determine.
In the year 1825, the land agents visited a tract of
country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who
had been before unknown as belonging to the state, having
never been represented in the legislature, or included in any
census. They are partly descendants of refugees, and
partly half-pay officers, Irish and Scotch. The vast tract
of wilderness intervening between them and the lower
country had prevented intercourse. Their country is rich
and beautiful, on the St. John's River, near the boundary
of N. Brunswick ; and many of them desired to be re-
ceived into the jurisdiction of the State Government.
The opening of a road along the course of the Penob-
scot to Quebec, by the way of St. John's, the survey cf
which was authorized this year, cannot fail to accelerate
the settlement of this country, and to increase the value
and the products of the soil. It will also prove hereafter
a very convenient route for travellers going to and from
Canada, and doubtless form a part of the grand northern
tour, which will then be complete.
From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking
the route through the finest part of the state of Maine.
The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, lies
through a region rapidly improving under the management
of an active, industrious, and increasing population. The
value of the soil has greatly advanced within a short time,
and it is the grand centre of emigration. There is ano>
ther road to Hallowell through Bath. Coaches travel
each way three times a week.
Augusta is a considerable town and very flourishing.
It is situated at the falls of the Kennebec, where the wa-
ter and the descent of the channel is sufficient to set in
motion several hundred wheels, and will probably be
hereafter extensively employed for manufacturing purposes.
Peipscot Falls. Near Lewistown, on the Androscog-
gin River, is a remarkable cataract, where the current
breaks through a range of mountains, and pours over a
broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and strikin? :
TRAVELLER.
333
and derives an additional interest, from its connexion
with the history of a tribe of Indians, long since extinct.
According to a tradition current in the neighbourhood,
the upper parts of this stream were formerly the residence
of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine and fer-
tile plain through which the river winds. The situation
was remote, and they had never engaged in any hostilities
with the whites, but devoted themselves to hunting and
fishing. The ground still contains many remains of their
weapons, utensils, &c. They were, however, at length
perNuaded tu engage in a hostile incursion against Bruns-
wick, at that time an exposed frontier settlement ; and
the whole tribe embarked in their canoes to accomplish
the enterprise. The stream flows gently on for a great
distance, until it approaches very near to the falls ; and
this was the spot appointed for the night encampment.
Night set in before their arrival ; and they sent two men
forward to make fires upon the banks a little above the
cataract. For some unknown reason the fires were
kindled below the falls ; and the Indians being thus de-
ceived concerning their situation, did not bring up their ca-
noes to the shore in > country above and below.
This is the place to which Washington retired after he
had accomplished the independence of his country, and
again when he had presided at the consolidation of the
government: voluntarily resigning the stations he had
consented to accept, and the powtr he had eiercised only
for the good of his country. To an American, this place
is interesting, in a degree which no language can either
heighten or describe. Whoever appreciates the value of
private and social virtue, will rejoice to find it asso*
ciated with the traits of a personage so distinguished and
influential ; the consistent politician will rejoic<; to reflect,
that his principles of natural freedom were not restricted
to any portion of the world, or any part of the human race;
while any one, who can duly estimate the extent of the
blessings he has conferred on his country, and the influence
of his actions on the happiness of the world, will wish
that his history may ever be cherished, as a model of sin-
cere and disinterciited patriotism.
Washington's Tomb
will be found under the shade of a little grove of cedars,
a short distance, southwards from the bouse, and near
the brow of the precipitous shore. It is small, un-
adorned, and neglected. The great man, who had ren-
dered to his country the most important military and civil
services she ever received, left his mortal remains to be
deposited in this humble cemetery : and that couniry has
never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monument
to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, and to
her has bequeathed a character, on which no attempt has
ever yet been made to discover a shadow or to fix a stain.
340
SUPPLEMEM'.
... BALTIMORE.
The Indian Queen Hotel. The City Hotel is an elegant
building, near the Washington monument, to be completed
in 1826. It will be one of the largest and most commodious
public bouses in the country.
Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United
States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various
projects have been made for improving the communica-
tion with the interior, which is now limited. The course
of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with the inten-
tion of making it mure useful in the transportation of
merchandise. The current is now so swift and broken in
many places, as to render the passage often difficult and
hazardous ; and it is probable, that great improvements
may hereafter be effected by locks and canals. If this
were once performed, and a cut made from the river to
Baltimore, the city would doubtless derive great advan-
tage from the internal trade.
The harbour of Baltimore, in the Patapsco River, has a
narrow entrance, and is well protected by high ground.
On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of con-
siderable size, where is a fort, and whence a commanding
view is enjoyed.
Fell's Point is a part of the city, about a mile below,
where most of the stores and shipping are found. Many
of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at right
angles, and are ornamented with fine buildings both
public and private.
The Exchange
is a very spacious brick building, erected within a few
years.
The Washington Monument.
This is a large column of marble placed in a commanil-
ing position, at the head of Charles-street, rising to the
height of 163 feet. It is 14 feet in diameter at the ton
StFPLEMJiNT.
341
and 2U below, with a base 23 feet in height, and 60
square. It is one of the finest monuments iix the United
States, and the only one worthy the memory of the great
man to whom it is erected.
* The Battle Mokument *
was recently erected, in memory of those who fell in the
defence of the city in September, 1814.
The Public Fountain
is a fine spring of water in the western part of the city,
surrounded by a fine public square, laid out in walks and
shaded with trees. It is ornamented with a neat little
building of hewn stone, and furnished with handsome
steps. To preserve order at this place in warm weather,
when it is usually much resorted to, it is the custom to
take the right in descending and retiring.
The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant rides ;
and the communication with different places is easy, by
various modes of conveyance. The most agreeable mode
of travelling to Philadelphia, is by the steam boat lines,
which go and arrive daily, with but a short distance of
land carriage. Steam boats also go to Norfolk, in Virginia,
but the passage is uninteresting ; and those who wish to
see Washington) (33 miles distant,) will go by land.
Hh
342
SUPPLEMENT.
Extracts from the Repwt of the Commissioners of the JV>t«-
York Cawd Fund, made in 1826.
The canal fund has not essentially changed since our
last annual report ; but the revenue, in almost every parti-
cular, has for the past year greatly exceeded the estimate
which was in that report submitted to the legislature.
The capital of the canal fund is as follows :
The canals estimated at their cost $9,267,234 43
The lands given by the Holland Land Com-
pany in Cattaraugus, 100,632 acres, es-
timated at 35,221 20
The lands given by John Hornby in the
county of Steuben, 8000 acres, estimated
at.. 3,000 00
The lands given by Gideon Granger, in the
county of Steuben, 1000 acres, esti-
mated at 5,000 00
The Onond. salt springs reservation unsold,
5,400 acres, valued at 26,000 00
Amount of bonds for canal fund lands sold 128,435 15
Amount of the canal fund $9,465,890 83
The amount of revenue in the treasury, ap-
plicable to the current expenses of th3
year, is $226,672 43
The revenue for the current year is esti-
mated as follows :
Canal tolls 700,000
Vendue duty 225,000
Salt duty 100,000
Principtd and interest on bonds be-
longing to the canal fund 10,000
1,035,000 00
Amount of revenue for the current year $1,261, 672 43
SUPPLEMENT. 34S
The payments for this amount during the
year will be, for
Interest on the canal loans .... $313,973 55
Estimated expense of repairing
the canals, and collecting tolls! 40,000 00
Improvements to be made on the
Champlain Canal 100,000 00
Damages estimated at 50,000 00
Loan reimbursable the 1st of
Oct. 1826 270,000 00
Incidental expenses of the com-
missioners of the canal fund,
estimated at 400 00
975,372 65
Estimated balance of the revenue over the
estimated charges upon it for the cur-
rent year , $286,298 93
I
ikPFEnrDzx.
LIST OF STAGE COACHES.
Mbanyf Ballstoni Saratoga SpringSj and Whilehdl Coach*
eSf leave Powell and Thorp's General Mail Coach Office,
No. 365 North Market-street, Albany, every morning and
afternoon for Balls ton and Saratoga Springs, and White-
hall, (in connexion with the Champlain steam boat,) every
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, by coaches
to Fort Edward, thence to Whitehall by canal packet
boats, through in one day — a steam boat leaves White-
hall Tuesday and Saturday for St. John's, where coaches
are in waiting for Montreal.
Proprietors, Swan, Thorp & Co.
Distance from Albany to
Miles. From Albany.
Troy, 6
Waterford, 6 11
Mechanicville, 8 19
Ballston Springs, ... 14 33
Saratoga do., 7 40
Sandy Hill, 19 59
Lake George, 13 72
Mhanyf Geneva^ and Buffalo Pilot Mail Coach, leaves
Powell & Thorp's General Mail Coach Office, No. 365
North Market-street, Albany, every day at 11 A. M. pass-
es through Schenectady, Little Falls, Herkimer, Utica,
Syracuse, (salt works,) Elbridge, Auburn, Geneva, Canan-
daigua, East and West Bloomfield, Avon, and Batavia,
to Buffalo, in three days — leaves Buffalo at 9 P. M. ar-
rives at Geneva the first day, Utica the second, and Al-
bany the third. Two daily lines of coaches pass and re-
,:»■ ,;
APPENDIX.
345
pass Niagara Falls every day, one on each side the river
from Lewiston and Buffalo.
Distance from Jilbany to Buff do and JVIagara.
Miles. From Albany.
Schenectady, 15
Amsterdam, 15 30
Caughnawaga, 10 40
Palatine Bridge, 12 53
Little Falls 21 73
Herkimer, 7 80
Utica, 16 96
Vernon, 15 IH
' Manlius, 25 136
Onondago, 10 146
Auburn, 24 170
Cayuga Bridge, 9 179
Geneva, 13 192
Canandaigua, 16 208
Batavia, 48 256
Buffalo, 40 296
Niagara Falls, 21 317
Albany, Cherry Valley, Cooperstown, and Rochester Mail
Coach, leaves Powell & Thorp's General Mail Coach Of-
fice, No. 365 North Market-street, Albany, every day, for
Cherry Valley, Cooperstown, Bridgewater, Madison,
Cazenovia, Manlius, Syracuse, Weed's Basin, Montezu-
ma, Lyons, Palmyra, andPittsford, to Rochester — through
in three days, crosses the canal thirteen times, and re-
turns in the same order. A coach leaves Utica every
morning, Sunday excepted, for Denmark and Sackett's
Harbour, and from Denmark to Ogdehsburgh, Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday. Proprietors of this and the two
preceding lines, Powell & Thorp, Albany ; J. Parker &
Co. Utica ; J. M. Sherwood, Auburn ; J. Sherwood, Ge-
neva ; B. D. Coe, Canandaigua ; O. Adams, Rochester ;
C. H. Coe, Buffalo ; S. Barton, Lewiston ; A. Hovey,
Montezuma ; S. Goodwin, Madison ; Wm. Story, Cherry
Vallev.
Hh 2
S4G
APPENDIX.
Distance from Mbany to
Miles.
Guilderland, 14
State Bridge, 12
Cherry Valley, 26
Little Lakes, 10
Bridgewater, 20
Madison, 14
Gazenovia, 12 ........
Manliu 12
Syracuse, 7
Elbridge, 15
Weed's Basin, 6
Montezuma, 9
Lyons, 17
Palmyra, 16
Pittsford, 15
Rochester, 8
From Albany,
26
52
62
82
96
108
120
127
142
148
157
174
190
205
213
Distance from Canandaigua to
Miles. Canandaigua.
Rochester, 28
Clarkson, 18 46
Lewiston, 60 106
From Utica to Sacketfs Harbour, 98 miles.
do. Ogdensburgh, 3 20 do.
Albany and Schenectady Daily Stage leaves Comstock's
Tavern, near the Canal Bridge, State-street, Schenectady,
every morning, and leaves Albany every afternoon. Seats
taken in Albany at Peter Germond's, Green-street. Fare,
(32^ cents. Proprietor, D. Comstock, Schenectady.
Albany and Montred Mail and Post Coach leaves Alba-
ny Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and ar-
rives in PouUney at 6 P. M. — leaves Poultney next morn-
ings at 3, and arrives in Burlington at 6 P. M. — leaves
Burlington Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M.
and arrives in Montreal same evenings at 7 — leaves Mon-
treal Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 3 A. M. and
APPENDIX.
347
unives in Burlington same evenings at 7 — leaves Burling-
ton Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and
arrives in Poultney same evenings at 6 — leaves Poultney
next mornings at 3, and arrives in Albany same evenings
at 6, through Watervliet, Troy, Lansingburgfa, Schaghti-
coke, Pittstown, Cambridge, Jackson, Salem, Hebron,
Granville, Wells, Poultney, Gastleton, Hubbardston, Sud-
bury, Whiting, Cornwall, Middlebury, New-Haven, Ver-
gennes, Ferrisbui^, Charlotte, Shelburn, Burlington, Col-
Chester, Milton, Georgia, St. Albans, Swanton, Missisque
Bay, St. John's, Laprairie, to Montreal— distance 220
miles.
•Albany, Utica, Geneva, Rochester, Buffalo, and Lewiston
JMaU Coach, leaves Powell & Thorp*s General Mail
Coach Office, No. 365 North Market-street, Albany,
every day at 3 P. M. travels by day light only, lodge at
Amsterdam, and arrives in Utica next day, at Auburn the
second, passes Geneva and Canandaigua to Avon and Ro-
chester the third, and Buffalo and Lewiston the fourth
day from Albany — returns in the same order.
Distance from Buffalo to
Miles. From Buffalo.
Williamsville, 10
Clarence, 8 18
Pembroke, 8 26
Batavia, 14 40
Leroy, 11 51
Caledonia, 6 57
Avon Post Office, 8 65
Avon East Village, .... 2 67
Lima, 5 72
West Bloomfield, 4 76
East Bloomfield 5 81
Canandaigua, 9 90
Geneva, 16 106
Waterloo, 7 113
Seneca Falls P. 4 117
EastCayuga 3 120
Auburn, 9 129
Skaneateles, 7 ••• 136
Marcellus, 6 142
V
I
:ms
APPENDIX.
Onondago C. H 8
JamesTille, 7
Manlius, 5
Sullivan, 6
LenoZi 5
Oneida, 7
Vernon, 5
Manchester, 8
New Hartford, ....... 5
Utica, 4
Little Falls, 22
Schenectady, 58
Albany, 16
150
157
162
168
173
180
185
193
198
202
224
282
298
Albany and Saratoga MaU Stage leaves Albany Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, at ^^ A. M. and arrives at Sara-
toga Springs at 5 P. M. — leaves Saratoga Springs Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrives in
Albany at 5 P. M. through Troy, Lansingbui^h, Water-
ford, and Ballston — distance 36 miles — fare ^2, Proprit'
tor, Elijah Castle.
Mhany^ JV*. F. and Manchester^ Vt, StagCf leaves Albany
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. and arrives
in Manchester same evenings — leaves Manchester Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 8 A. M. and arrives in
Albany same evenings, through Troy, Lansingburgb,
Pittstown, Hoosack, Bennington, Shaftsbury, and Arling-
ton. Fare $3 25.
Jilbany and Boston Union Line Mail Stage leaves J.
Rhine's Stage House, No. 12 Beaver-street, Albany, at 7,
and O. Babcock's General Stage House, Troy, at 8 A. M.
Monday, Wednesday* and Friday, and arrives in Plainfield
same evenings at 5 — leaves Plainfield Tuesday, Thursday,
and Saturday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Barre same even-
ings at 5 — leaves Barre Monday, Wednesday, and Friday,
at 7 A. M. and arrives in Boston same evenings at 5 —
leaves Boyden*s City Tavern, Boston, Tuesday, Thurs-
APPENDIX.
349
ilaj, and Saturday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Barre same
evenings at 6 — leaves Barre Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday, at 7, and arrives in Plainfield same evenings at 6
— leaves Plainfield Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 7
A. M. and arrives in Albany same evenings at 5, through
Sand Lake, Stephentown, Hancock, Lanesborough, Che-
shire, Savoy, Plainfield, Ashfield, Conway, Bloody Brook,
Sunderland, Leverett, Shutesbury, New-Salem, Peter-
sham, Barre, Hubbardston, Princeton, Sterling, Lancas-
ter, Bolton, Stow, Sudbury, Concord, Lincoln, Weston,
Waltham, Watertown, Cambridge, to Boston. This line
intersects with the stages at Bloody Brook to Northamp-
ton, and at Sunderland to Amherst. Distance 160 miles
—fare 17 60.
Augusta and Bangor, Me, Meal Stage, leaves Auguita
Wednesday and Saturday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Ban-
gor at 8 P. M. — leaves Bangor Monday and Thursday, at
4 A. M. and arrives in Augusta at S P. M. through Vas-
salborough, Brown's Corner, GetchePs Corner, Outlet,
China, Albion, Unity, Joy, Dizmont, Newburgh, and
Hampden. Distance 68 miles— fare $3 50. Proprietors,
Moses Burley and Spencer Arnold.
Jiugusta and Belfast, Me, Stage, leaves Augusta every
Wednesday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Belfast at 8 P. M.
— leaves Belfast every Thursday at 4 A. M. and arrives in
Augusta at 8 P. M. through China. Palermo, Freedom,
Montville, Searsmont, and Belmont. Distance 50 miles
--fare $2 50.
•^ndover and Boston Stage leaves Andover every morn-
ing, except Sundays, at 6, and arrives in Boston at 10 A.
M. — leaves Col. Wilde's, 45 Ann-street, Boston, every
afternoon, except Sundays, at 3, and arrives in Andover
at 7 P. M. Distance 20 miles— fare $1,
350
APPENDIX.
Jiugiuta, Me, and WatervUU Stage, leares Augusta Mon-
dajr, Wednesday, and Friday, at half past 4 P. M. and
arrives in Waterville at 8— leayes Waterville Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Au-
gusta at half past 7— Fare $1. Owned by Maine Stage
Company.
Boston and Many Mail Stage, via Myrthampton, leaves
EarIN, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives at Northampton at 7
P. M. — leaves Northampton next mornings at i, and ar-
rives in Albany at 7 P. M— leaves E. Clark's Office, 526
South Market-street, Albany, Monday, Wedoesday, and
Friday, at 3 A- M. and arrives in Northampton at 7 P.
M. — leaves Northampton next mornings at 3, and arrives
in Boston at 7 P. M. through Framingham, Worcester,
Brookfield, Ware Factory Village, Belchertown, North-
ampton, Chesterfield, Pittsfield, Lebanon Springs, and
Greenbush, to Albany — distance 165 miles. Fare from
Boston to Northampton, $4 50 ; to Albany, $8 75,
Boston and ,Slbany MaU Stage, via Springfield, leaves
Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston, Tuesday, Thursday,
and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Springfield at
6 P. M. — ^leaves Springfield Monday, Wednesday, and
Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Albany at 7 P. M.
—leaves E. Clark's Office, 526 South Market- street, Al-
bany, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and
arrives in Springfield at 7 P. M. — leaves Springfield Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in
Boston at 7 P. M. through Waltham, Sudbury, Marlboro',
Worcester, Brookfield, Palmer, Springfield, Westfield,
Stockbridge, Greenbush, to Albany — distance 165 miles.
Fare from Boston to Springfield, $4 50; to Albany,
$8 75.
Boston, Hartford, and ^ew'Haven Middle LineAccom-
modation Stage, leaves Earl's, 36 Hanover-street, Boston,
APPENDIX.
3J1
i^!
every day except Tuesday, at 7 A. M. and arrives in Ash-
ford at 6 P. M. — leaves Ashford next mornings at 5, and
arrives in New-Haven same evenings at 6 — leaves New-
Haven every morning, except Tuesday, stops in Ashford
over night, and arrives in Boston next evenings at 6,
through Dedham, Mcdfield, Mendon, Thompson, Pomfret,
Coventry, E. Hartford on Meriden road to New- Haven —
distance 136 miles. Fare from Boston to Hartford,
$5 50 ; to New- Haven, $7 50.
Boston and »Slhany »iccommodation Stage, by Worcester,
Amherst, Northampton, Pittsfield, and Lebanon Springs,
and by Worcester, Southbridge, and Springfield, to Alba-
ny, leaves Boston and £. Clark's office, 626 South Mar-
ket-street, Albany, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur-
day, at 2 A. M., and arrives in Northampton and Spring-
field at 8 same evenings — leaves Northampton and Spring-
field for Boston and Albany every Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Boston and Albany
at 8 same evenings. At Northampton and Springfield,
this line intersects the stage passing up and down the
river, and likewise intersects the line of stages from Pro-
vidence through Thompson to Albany at Southbridge. A
stage also passes from Greenwich Village through Prescott
and Pelham, intersecting at Amherst, passing the manu-
facturing establishments in Leicester, Charlton, South-
bridge, Brimficld and Monson, through New Braintee,
Hardwicke, Greenwich, and Enfield, by Amherst College
and Hadley Academy, through Northampton, Chesterfield,
Pittsfield, Greenbush, to Albany. Fare from Boston to
Worcester, $2 ; to Southbridge, $3 ; to Northampton,
$4 50 ; to Albany, |8 75. Book.^ kept in Boston at
EarPs, Hanover-street, and Wildes & Hosmer's, Elm-^
street ; in Worcester at C. StockwclPs ; in Northampton
at Warner's ; and in Albany at E. Clark's office.
Boston and Albany Mail Stage, via Brattleboro', Vt,
leaves Brigham's, 42 Hanover-street, Boston, Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M. and arrives in Brat-
tleboro' same evenings at 9 — leaves Brattleboro* next
352
APPENDIX.
mornings at 2, and arrives in Albany at 9 P. M. — leaves
Albany Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 3 A. M. an)
arrives in Brattleboro' same evenings at 9 — leaves Brat
tleboro* next morning at 2 A. M. and arrives in Boston
same evenings at 9, through Cambridge, Waltham, Stow,
Bolton, Lancaster, Leominster, Fitchburg, Westminster,
Temple ton, Athol, Orange, Winchester, Hinsdale, WiU
mington, Bennington, and Troy> A branch of this line
leaves Athol same hours for Albany, through Greenfield,
Williamstown* Adams, and Hancock, and arrives in Alba-
ny same time, and intersects at Athol.
Boston and Jilbany Despatch and Phanix Line of Stt^es^
via Greenjield, leaves Riley's, N?. 9 Elm-street, Boston,
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 4 A. M. and arrives
in Greenfield at half past 7 same evenings — ^leaves Green-
field Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, and arrives in
Albany same days — leaves Albany Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday, and arrives in Greenfield same days — leaves
Greenfield Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 A. M.
and arrives in Boston at half past 7 same evenings, inter-
secting the Providence, Worcester, and Keene line, at
Hubbardston — through Watertown, Waltham, Lincoln,
Stow, Bolton, Lancaster, Sterling, Princeton, Hubbards-
ton, Petersham, Neiv-Salem, Shutesbury, Wendall, Mon-
tague, Greenfield, Glaremont, Adams, Williamstowu,
Hancock, Stephentown, Sand Lake to Albany. Fare
from Boston to Greenfield, $3 75 ; to Albany, ^7 75.
Bostmif Keene, Walpole, Charlestown, Windsor, and
Hanover Jtccommodation Stage, leaves Brigham's, 42 Ha*
nover-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday,
at 4 A. M. and arrives in Keene same evenings at 7—
leaves Keene next mornings at 5, and arrives in Hanover
same evenings at 6 — leaves Hanover Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday, at 4 A. M. and arrives in Keene same
evening at 6 — leaves Keene next mornings at 4, and ar-
rives in Boston same evenings at 7, through Concord and
Westford on Monday, and returns on Thursday, through
Groton, Ashby, Rindge, and Fitzwilliam — distance 14(*
APPENDIX.
■iio
luilei. Fare from Boston to Ashby, $2 50 ; to RindgCj
^3 25 ; to Fitzwilliam, $3 50 ; to Keene, $4 ; to Charles-
town, 95 50 ; to Windsor, $6 ; to Hanover, 96 50.
Boston^ Keene, Wdpoltt Rutland, and Burlington, Vt.
Mail Stage, leaves Brigham's, 42 Hanover-street, Boston,
Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, at 4 A. M and arrives
atKeene at 7 same evenings — leaves Keene next mornings
at 5, and arrives in Rutland same evenings at 7 — leaves
Rutland next mornings at 5, and arrives in Burlington
same evenings at 5 — leaves Burlingt>ii Monda>, Wed-
nesday, and Friday, at 5 Ar M and arrives in Rutland
same evenings at 6 — leaves Rutland next mornings at 5,
and arrives in Keene same evenings at 6— leaves Keene
next mornings at 4, and arrives in Boston same evenings
at 7, through Concord, Groton, New Ipswich, Jeffrey,
Chester, Mount Holley, Brandon, Middlebury, Ver-
genne ., and Charlotte — distance 210 miles. Fare from
Boston to Concord, $1 ; to Groton, $2 ', to New Ipswich,
$2 50 ; to Jeffrey, $3 25 ; to Kerne, $4 ; to Walpole,
$4 75 ; to Chester, ^^ j 75 ; to Mount Holley, $6 75 ;
to Rutland, $7 75 ; to Brandon, $8 75 ; to Middlebury,
99 75 j to Burlington, ^11 25.
'!
Boston, •Smherst, Windsor, and Burlington, Vt. Mail
Stage, leaves Boyden^s (City Tavern,) Boston, Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, at 5 A. M and arrive>4 in Fran-
cestown same evenings at 6 — leaves Francestown next
mornings at 4, and arrives in Windsor at 12, noon, and in
Royalton same evenings — leaves Royaltoii next mornings
at 4, and arrives in Burlington at 4 P. M. — from thence
to Montreal and Qu^'bec — leaves Burlington three times a
week, and arrives in Francestown Monday, Wednesday,
and Friday evenings— leaves Francestown next mornings
at 4, and arrives in Boston at 3 P. M. through Charles-
town, Medford, Chelmsford, W. Parish, Nashua Village,
Hillsborough, Washington, Newport, Uartland, Wood-
stock, over Gulf Road to Montpelier — distance 212 miles.
Fare from Boston to Windsor, $6 ; to Burlington; 319..
I i
351
APPENDIX.
Bostorif Portsmoutht JV*. H. and Portland JJccummodalion
Stage, leaves colonel Wildes' 45 Arin>stree(| Boston, every
morning, excepl Sundays, at 8, and arrives in Newbury-
port at 1 P. M. to dine, and in Portsmouth, at 5 — leaves
Portsmouth next morning at 8, (on lower road) through
Kittery, York, Wells, Kennebunk, Biddeford, Saco, and
Scarborough, and arrives in Portland at 5 P. M. — leaves
Portland every morning except Sundays, at 8, on same
road, and arrives in Portsmouth, at 5 P. M.— leaves Ports-
mouth next morning at 9, and arrives in Boston at 6 P.
M. — distance, to Newburyport, 38 miles — fare $2,00 ; to
Portsmouth, 62 miles, $3,00; to Portland. 120 miles,
$6,00.
Boston and Providence Citizens* Coach, leaves Boston
every morning at half past 7 and arrives in Providence to
dine — leaves Providence every morning at half past 7 and
arrives in Boston to dine. — On steam boat diys, Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday, the proprietors convey all
passengers who wish to take passage in the steam boats
for New- York — they also have carriages in readiness to
take passengers who may arrive at Providence in the
steam boats, to Boston — extra coaches furnished at any
time at short notice — books kept at Boyden's city tavern,
Exchange Coffee House, Marlboro' Hotel, Commercial
Coffee House, Lafayette Hotel, Wildes and Hosmer's,
Elm- street, and Shephard's, Bloomfield Lane, Boston i
and at Blake's Hotel, Providence — distance 40 miles — fare
$2 — t^gents, A. Fuller, Boston ; D. Borden, Providence.
Boston, Walpole, Wrentham, and Providsncef R. I.
Stage, leaves Boston and Providence every morning except
Sundays, at 5 — from Providence Monday, Wednesday,
Tuesday, and Friday — from Boston, Thursday and Satur-
day, through Walpole and Wrentham — from Boston, Mon-
day, Wednesday, and Friday — and from Providence, Tues-
day, Thursday, aad Saturday, over the turnpike. Distance
40 miles— fare H 50. Books kept at Blake's Franklin Ho-
tel, Providence, and at Cobb's Marlboro' Hotel, Boston,
dgents, A. Fuller, Boston, and D. Borden, Providence-
APPENDIX.
35;'.
ioUalion
» every
iwbury-
-leaves
brough
Boston and Ptovidence Ji^eto Line of Coaches, leaves
Boston and Providence every morning at half past 7, and
arrives in each place to dine — Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday, runs to meet the steam boats that leave Provi-
dence the same afternoons for New- York, aid will be
in readiness to take passengers to Boston on their arrival
at Providence — distance 40 miles — fare $2 — books kept in
Boston at Brigham's, 42 Hanover- street ; in Providence
at Horton's Hotel, Manufacturers* Hotel and at Wesson's
Coffee House ; in Paw tucket at Jenkes' Hotel — Agents,
William Norton, Boston ; Joel Blaidsell, Providence.
Boston and Burlington Mail Pilot Utage, leaves Jacob
Barnard's stage office. No. 9 Elm-Street, Boston, Mon-
day, Wednesday and Friday, at 5 A. M. and arrives in
Concord at 6 P. M. — leaves Concord next morningi at 4
A. M. and arrives in Royalton, Vt. at 7 P. M. — leaves Roy-
alton, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, and arrives in
Burlington at 4 P. M. — leaves Burlington, Tuesday,
Thursday and Saturday, and arrives in Royalton at 7 P.
M. — leaves Royalton, Monday, Wednesday and Friday at
4 A. M. and arrives in Concord at 5 P. M. — leaves Con-
cord, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4 A. M. and ar-
rives in Boston at 5 P. M. through Charlestown, Medford,
Stoneham, Reading, Andover, Methuen, New-Salem,
Londonderry, Chester, Hookset, Bow, Boscawen, Salis-
bury, New-Andover, Wilmont, Springfield, Enfield, Le-
banon, Hanover, Hartford, Sharon, Randolph, Brookfield,
Williamstown, Barre, Montpelier, Middlesex, Moretown,
Waterbury, Bolton, Richmond, Williston to Burlington —
distance 210 miles — fare $12.
Boston, Haverhill, and Concord, JV*. H, Stage, leaves
Jacob Barnard's stage office. No. 9 Elm-street. Boston,
Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5 A. M. and arrives
in Concord at 5 P. M. where it connects with the
Pilot line for Burlington and Montreal— leaves Con-
cord, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4 A. M.
and arrives in Boston at 5 P. M. through Charlestownj
Medford, Stoneham, Reading, Andover, Bradford, Ha-
verhill, Ms., Atkinson, Hampstcad, Chester, Candia to
li
356
appendix;
Concord — distanee 63 miles — fare $3 SO—Propriefars-
nSgent, Hiram Plummer, Ha?erhill.
Earl'»,
Boston and Worcester ^ccommodaHon Stage, leaves H.
w\\ 36 Hanover'Street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday
and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Worcester at 3 P.
M, — leaves Worcester, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
at 9 A. M. and arrives in Boston at 4 P. M. through Water-
town, Waltham, Weston, Sudimry, Marlborough, North-
bridge, Shrewsbury to Worcester — distance & miles-
fare ^2— Proprietors, H. Earl, and S. Burt.
Boston, Bolton, Lancaster and Princeton Jieeommodation
Stage,, leaves Boyden's city tavern, and Brigham's, ^ !ano-
ver-street, Boston, Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7
A. M. and arrives in Princeton at 5 P. M.-*-(see Wachusett
Hills,) leaves Princeton, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
at 6 A. M. and arrives in Boston at 2 P. M. through Cam-
bridge, Watertown, Waltham, Weston, Lincoln, Sudbury,
Stow, Bolton, Lancaster, Sterling to Princeton-— distance
47 miles— Propneeor5, Holman, Cowe & Co. Bolton;
James Barnard & Co. Boston.
Brunsvjtck and Wiseasset, Me. Stage, leaves Brunswick
every day at 10 A. M. and arrives at Wiscasset at 2 P.
M. leaves Wiscasset every day at 8 A. M. and arrives
in Brunswick same days, through Bath— owned by Maine
Stage Company.
Buffalo and Erie J\IaU Stage, leaves the Mansion Housci
Buffalo, every morning at 4, and Erie every morning at
the same hour.
Catskitt and Ithaca, A** F. J^ail and Post Coach Line —
N. Steel & Co.'s line leaves Catskill, Sunday and Thurs-
day at 6 A. M. through Cairo, Windham, Rozbury, Stam-
ford, Kortright, Delhi, Merideth, Franklin, Unadilla, Ox»
APPENDIX.
357
ford, Greene, Lisle, &c. to Ithaca — the stages meet in
Delhi first evening and in Greene second evening. — H.
Watkins & Co.'s leaves Catskill, Tuesday and Friday at 6
A. M. through Cairo, New-Durham, Broome, Blenheim,
Stamford, Harpersfield, Meridetb, Franklin, Sidney, Una-
dilla, Bainbridge, Greene, &c. to Ithaca — this line meets
the western stages at Harpersfield first evening and at
Greene second evening. — Coaches leave Ithaca, Sunday,
Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 4 A. M. and arrive in
Catskill in time for the steam boat on the third day — fare
4 cts. per mile — seats taken in Catskill at CroswelKs and
Donnelly's ; in Ithaca at Spencer's, and at the interme-
diate stage houses. — A stage leaves Harpersfield every
Monday for Albany, and leaves Albany every Wednesday
for Harpersfield ; N. Steel & Co.'s line intersects it, and
also intersects the Utica and Binghamton lines at Oxford
— Proprietors, H. Watkins & Co. and N. Steel & Co.
Conway, J^. IJ. and Portlandf Me. Stage, leaves Con-
way, Monday and Thursday at 5 A. M. and arrives in
Portland at 5 P^ M. — leaves Portland, Wednesday and
Saturday at 7 A. M, and arrives in Conway at 7 P. M.
through Fryeburg, Baldwin, Standish and Gorham — fare
$2 50 — owned by White Mountain Stage Company.
Conway^ JV, IJ, and Lancaster, JV*. H. Stage, leaves Con-
way, Thursday and Sunday at 5 A. M. and arrives in
Lancaster same days — leaves Lancaster, Friday and Wed-
nesday and arrives in Conway same days, passing througli
the notch of the White Mountains each way — fare $2,50
— owned by the White Mountain Stage Company.
Dover and Portsmouth, JV. H» Stage, leaves Dover every
day, except Sundays, at 8 A. M. and arrives in Ports-
mouth at 10 — leaves Portsmouth every day, except Sun-
days, at 5 P. M. and arrives in Dover at 7, through New-
ington— distance 12 miles— fare 62i cts.-— Proprietors'
^is'ent. Simeon Wingate.
I i 2
353
APPENDIX.
Dudley and Boston *QeeommodaHon Stage, by Worcester,
Ward, Millbury, Sutton and Oxford, leaves Boston every
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 2 A. M. and Wor-
cester at 10 A. M. and arrives at Dudley same day — leaves
Dudley for Worcester and Boston, every Monday, Wed-
nesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. and arrives at Worcester,
at 12, and at Boston at 8, same evening, and passes the
Manuf^^cturing Establishments in Oxford and Dudley — on
Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday, on its way
through Oxford, passes the Manufacturing Establishments
of Leffingwell, Preston & Co. the Mineral Springs of
Major Joseph Lamb on Wednesdays and Thursdays by
the way of Millbury and Sutton — (all baggage at the risk
of the owners) seats in Boston, taken at Wildes and Hos-
mer's. Elm-street.
Eastern J^ail Stage, leaves Wildes', 45 Ann-street,
Boston, every morning, at 2, through Salem, Ipswich,
Newbury port, and arrives ir» Portsmouth at 10 A. M. and
in Portland at 8 same evening — leaves Portland every
morning at 4, and arrives in Portsmouth at half past 12,
noon, and in Boston at 9 same evening — distance to New-
buryport 3S miles — fare $2 50 ; to Portsmouth 62 miles
$4 ; to Portland 120 miles $8 — Agents, Col. Jeremiah
Colman, Newburyport, and A. Rice, Portsmouth.
Hartford and Providence Mail Stage, leaves Hartford,
Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings, on the arriv&l
of the southern mail, and arrives in Providence, same
evenings — leaves Providence, Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday at 9 A. M. and arrives in Hartford same eve-
nings, through East- Hartford, Manchester, Bolton, Co-
ventry, Mansfield, Ashford, Pomfret, Killingly, Foster,
Gloucester, Scituate and Johnstown---di8tance 70 miles
— fare $4 37 — Proprietors, James Goodwin, jr. Hartford ;
E. Pomroy, Coventry ; D. Clark, Ashford ; D. Cornel,
Gloucester.
APPENDIX.
35U
Hartford nnd lAtchfieldf Conn, Mail Coach, leayes Mor-
gan's Coffee House, Hartford, Monday, Wednesday and
Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Litchfield at 3 P. M. —
leaves Litchfield, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8
A. M. and arrives in Hartford at 3 P. M. through Far-
minglon, Burliqgtun and Harwinton to Litchfield — fare
$2 — Proprietor f Josiah Parks.
Hartford and Jfew-Haven, Conn. Steam Boat Stages,
leave Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, every day at 10
A. M. ; on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, via. Berlin,
Meriden and Wallingford, and on Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday, via. Fannington, Southington and Cheshire,
and arrive in New- Haven in time to take the steam boats
and ■tag:es for New-York — leave New-Haven on the ar-
^ vai of the steam boats from New- York and arrive in
? ''t*'ord in time to take the stages that leave there each
U»v" m the week — distance 40 miles — fare $2 — Proprietors,
James Rose & Co. Hartford ; and John Babcock, junr.
New-Haven.
Hartford, Connecticut and Mbany, .Y. F. MaU Stage,
leaves Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, Monday, Wed-
nesday and Friday at 2 A. M. and arrives in Albany same
evenings at 8— leaves £. Clark's office, No. 526, South
Market-street, Albany, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday
at 2 A. M. and arrives in Hartford same evenings at 8
through New- Hartford, Norfolk, Sheffield, West Stock-
bridge and Chatham, to Albany — distance from Albany to
Chatham 15 miles; to West Stockbridge 30 miles; to
Sheffield 46 miles ; to Norfolk 60 miles ; to New-Hart-
ford 76 miles ; to Hartford 96 miles— fare $5— Proprie-
tors, Aaron French, T. Whitlock, Aaron Hosmer, Calvin
Forbes, Moses Forbes and Samuel P. Patterson.
Hartford and JfeW'Haven, Con, Jiccommodation Stage,
leaves Morgan's Coffee House, Hartford, Monday, Wed-
nesday and Friday at U A. M. and arrives in New-Ha-
ven at 6 P. M.— leaves New-Haven, Tuesday, Thursday,
360
APPENDIX.
flnd Saturday at 8 A. M . and arrives in Hartford nt :>
P. M. through Weathersfield, Rocky Hill, Middletown
U. H. Middletown, Durham, and Northford — distance 40
miles— fare $2 — extra stages and coaches furnished, on
ishort notice, at all times — Proprietors, James Rose & Co.
Hartford ; and John Babcock, jr. New-H^ven.
Hartford, C(mn, and Hanover, J^, H. Mail Stages, (on
east side of Connecticut River) leave Hartford and Ha-
nover Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 5 A. M . and
arrive in Hinsdale same evening — leave Hinsdale Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday mornings and arrive in Hart-
ford and Hanover same evenings; intersecting the Boston
and Brattleboro' line at Hinsdale — the Boston, Keene,
and Walpole line, and all th^ lines from Albany to Boston
in the distance of the route. Distance from Hartford to
Hanover, 152 miles — fare $7 25. — Proprietors, Robert
M. Abbe & Co. £. Graves & Co. Skinner & Marsh.
Lewistown and Rochester, JV. Y. J\IaU Stage, leaves
Lewiston every morning at 4 P. M. and arrives at Ro-
chester at 7 same evening — passes through the villages of
Hartland, Ridgway, Oak Orchard, Gaines, Sandy Creek,
Clarkson, and Parma — leaves Rochester at 4 A. M. and
arrives in Lewiston at 7 P. M. — distance 80 miles — fare
$3 50 — extras are all times furnished either at Rochester
or Lewiston. — Proprietors, Samuel Barton, Lewiston;
Orry Adams, Rochester.
J^Torthampton, Mass. and Hartford, Conn. Enterprise
^tage, via Westfield and Connecticut State Prison, leaves
Curtis's, Northampton, every Monday morning at 2 and
arrives at Hartford in time to take the steam boat Oliver
Ellsworth for New-York ; and on Wednesday and Friday
mornings leaves same place at 8 and arrives in Hartford
at 2 P. M.— leaves Hartford, Tuesday, and Thursday at 8
A. M. and arrives in Northampton at 2 P. M. on Satur-
days leaves Hartford on the arrival of the steam boat and
arrives at Northampton in six liours— fare from North-
APPENDIX.
3fil
ampton to Hartford $2,25 — Proprietors J. Curtis & Co.
Northompton, and B. Merwin & Co. Westfield. >
JV*e ^•London and Hartford, Conn, Stage, leaves New-
London, Tuesday and Thursday at 8 A. M. and arrives in
Hartford at 6 P. M.— leaves Morgan's Coffee House,
Hartford, Wednesday and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives
in New-London at 5 P. M. through Waterford, Montville,
Salem, Colchester, Hebron, Marlboro', Glastenbury, and
East Hartford— distance 47 miles— fare $3 — Proprietors,
Elias W. Newton, Colchester, and Horatio G. Broom,
New-London.
^ew-York and Easton Mail Stage, leaves New-York
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 6 A. M. and arrives
at Caston, same evenings at 7 — leaves Easton, Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday mornings, and arrives in New*
York at 5 P. M through Elizabethtown, Springfield,
Chatham, Bottlehill, Morristown, Mendham, Chester by
the Schoolies Mountain Springs, Anderson, Washington
to Easton — distance 70 miles— fare $3 — Proprietorg,
James Anderson, Benjamin C. Chamberlin, and John
Drake.
J^eW'Haven, Litchfield, Ctmn» and Jllbany JV*. Y. Mail
Coach, leaves New-Haven, Tuesday, Thursday, and Sa-^
turday at 8 A- M. and arrives in Litchfield at 3 P. M. —
leaves Litchfield Monday, Wednesday, and J'riday at 5 A.
M. and arrives in Albany same evenings-heaves Albany
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 2 A* M. on the
arrival of the Albany stages and arrives in Litchfield at 5
P. M. — leaves Litchfield Monday, Wednesday, and Fri-
day at 7 A. M. and arrives in New-Haven at 2 P. M.
through Waterbury, Watertown, East Goshen, Norfolk,
Canaan, Sheffield, Great Barrington, West Stockbridge,
Chatham,, Nassau, Schodac and Greenbush to Albany —
fare from Litchfield to Albany $4 — Books kept at Morse's
General Stage Office and Bishop's Hotel, Church-street,
i
3(J'2
APPENDIX.
Neiv-Hayen— -at the public houses in Litchfield, and at
£. Clark's Stage Office, South Market-street, Albany—
ProprietorSf John W. Harris, New-Haven ; J. Parks,
Litchfield ; A. Hosmer, C. Forbes, M. Forbes, and S. P.
Patterson.
^ewburgh and Ithaca, JV*. F< J^ail Stage , leaves New
burgh Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday, at 6 A. M. and
arrives in Ithaca, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday
evenings, through Monticello, Gocheco, Damascus,
Mount Pleasant, New-Milford, crosses the Susquehannah
River, through Chenango Point and Oswego to Ithaca —
ProprietorSf James Crawford, Newburgh; J. Baird^
Bloomingburgh ; E. Hathaway, Monticello; J. Molt,
New-Milford.
Norwich and Hartford, Conn. Mail Coach, leaves Kin-
ney's hotel, Norwich, every Tuesday at 8 A. M. and
atxives in Hartford at 5 P. M. — leaves Morgan's Cofiee
House, Hartford, every Wednesday at 7 A* M. and ar'>
rives in Norwich at 5 P. M. through Chelsea, Bozrah,
Franklin, Lebanon, Windham, Columbia, Coventry,
(Andover parish) Bolton, Manchester, and East Hartford
— distance 40 miles— fare $2.50 — Proprietors, N. Kinney,
Norwich ; R. S. White, Bolton ; and Jabez Loomis.
Norwich and Hartford, Conn, Stage, leaves Norwich
(Chelsea Landing) every Thursday at 9 A. M. and arrives
in Hartford at 6 P. M. — leaves Morgan's Coffee House,
Hartford, every Friday at 7 A. M. and arrives in Norwich
at 5 P. M. through Norwichtown, Bozrah, Bozraville,
Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury, and
East Hartford— distance 40 miles— fare $2 50.
Providence, Bristol, and Kewport, R, I. Mail Stage,
leaves Providence every day, except Sundays, at 9 A. M.
and arrives in Bristol at ll, and in Newport at 4 P. M.
—leaves Newport every day, except Sundays, at 9 A. M.
and at
Ibany—
Parks,
hd S. P.
APPENDIX.
'Hi3
and arrives in Providence at 4 P. M. — distance from Pro-
vidence to Bristol 15 miles, to Newport 30 — fare from
Providence to Bristol $1, to Newport $1 43.
Portsmouth and Concordf lAT. H, MaU Stage, leaves
Portsmouth Monday,^Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 A. M.
and arrives in Concord at 5 P. M. — leaves Concord Tues-
day, Thursday, and Saturday, at 6 A. M. and arrives ia
Portsmouth at 3 P. M. — through Greenland, Stratham,
Exeter, Epping, Deerfield, AUenstown, and Pembroke, to
Concord — distance, 50 miles — fare, $2,50, — A branch
from the Mail Stage intersects the Portsmouth and Con-
cord Mail Stage at Exeter and at Hampton Falls — fare
from Newburypo to Concord, $2 50. — ,Sgent Daniel
Storey, Portsmouth.
Providence R, I. and Norwich, Conn. J\IaU Stage, leaves
Providence Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at half past
2 P. M. and arrives in Norwich at 10 same evening? —
leaves Norwich Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 12
noon, and arrives in Providence at half past seven same
evenings — through OIneyville, Scituate, Foster, Coventry,
Sterling, Plainfield, and Jewett city to Norwich. This
line is connected with the Boston, Taunton, New-Haven
and Hartford mail lines, so that passengers can take seats
for either of those routes. — Books kept at Blake's Frank-
lin House, Providence, and at Kinney's Hotel, Norwich
— fare $3. — *Sgents, N. Manchester and A. Fry.
Plymouth and Boston Accommodation Stage, leaves
Plymouth, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings
and arrives in Boston to dine — leave Boyden's city tavern,
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 11 A. M. and ar-
rives in Plymouth same afternoon, through Kingston,
Dusbury, Pembroke, Hanover, Scituate, Weymouth,
Quincy, and Dorchester — fare through, $1 50.
r
Plymouth and Boston Accommodation stage, (twice a
m
364
APPENDIX.
week) leaves Plymouthi Tuesday and Thursday at J p&bt
6 A. M. and arrives in Boston to dine — leaves Boston,
Wednesday and Friday, at 1 1 A. M. and arrives in Ply.
mouth same evening, through Kingston, Hanover, Abi'ng*
ton, Weymouth, Quincy, and Dorchester — distance 38
miles — fare $1 50 — books kept at Wildes & Hosmer's,
Elm-street, Boston, and old colony hotel, Plymouth*
Pli^nouth and Boston »Sccommodation StagCj leaves Ply-
mouth, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at half past 6,
A. M. and arrives in Boston to dine — leaves Boston,
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 11 A. M and ar-
rives in Plymouth same evenings, through Kingston,
Terabroke, Hanover, Scituate, Weymouth, Quincy and
Dorchester — distance 38 miles — fare $1,50 — books kept
in Boston, at Riley's, Elm-street, and at Hamilton's, city
hotel. Elm-street, and in Plymouth at old colony hotel—
Proprietors, A. Thayer and B. Gushing & Co.
Plymouth, Ftdnwuth, Barnstable, and Boston Mail Stage,
leaves Barnstable and Falmouth, Monday, Wednesday,
end Friday mornings, and arrives in Boston at 5 P. M. —
leaves Boyden's (city tavern) Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Falmouth and Barn-
stable same afternoon — at Falmouth it meets the mail
packet which runs to Nantucket same evening, through
Sandwich, Kingston, Duxbury, Pembroke, Hanover,
Scituate, Hingham ; Qumcy, and Dorchester — fare from
Boston, to Plymouth, $1,50 ; to Sandwich, $2,50 ; to
Falmouth, $3,50; to Barnstable, $3,8^— Fropnetors,
Simeon Boyden & Co. Bo»toji; Sivret and Whiting,
Scituate ; George Drew, Plymouth.
Portsmouth, Concord, Charlestown, J^. H. and Albany^
JV*. Y, Mail Stage, leaves Portsmouth, Monday, Wednes-
day, and Friday at 8 A. M. and arrives in Concord at 5
P. M.— leaves Concord next mornings at 7 and arrives in
Charlestown same day, where it intersects the Whitehall,
t^&ratoga Springs and Albany stages ; over the N. H-
turnpike,
ton. Hen
will arrii
for St. J(
em line
intersect
cock and
Partial
day at 4
— leaves
Portland
Freeport,
well — far
Poiflat
Portland
P. M.— 1
Portland
Stage Co
Portlar
leaves Pi
arrives in
day and
P. M. th
ton, Gre(
Paris,
and Wed
P. M.—
A. M. ai
land, an(
Pawlu
hotel, Ps
APPENDIX.
3G5
turnpike, through Dover, Durham, Northwood, Hopkin-
ton, Henniker, and Hillsborough ; passengers for Canada
will arrive at Whitehall in season to take the steam boat
for St. John's, and leave there in season to take the East-
ern line at Granville, to return. A line of stages, which
intersects the above at Hillsborough, passes through Han-
cock and Peterborough.
Portland, Me, and »Sugtista Stage, leaves Portland every
day at 4 A. M. and arrives in Augusta at half past 3 P. M.
— leaves Augusta every day at 8 A. M. and arrives in
Portland at half past 7 P. M. through North Yarmouth,
Freeport, Brunswick, Bowdoinhum, Gardiner, and Hallo-
well — fare $3— owned by the Maine Stage Company.
Pw^land and Bath, Me, Jlccommodation Stage, Isuve^
Portland every day at 10 A. M. and arrives in Bath at 5
P. M. — leaves Bath every day at 8 A. M. and arrives in
Portland at 2 P. M.— fare $l,50--owr.ed by the Maine
Stage Company.
Portland, Hallowell, and *Sugusta Stage, (upper road)
leaves Portland, Monday and Thursday at 5 A. M. and
arrives in Hallowell at 6 P. M. — leaves Hallowell, Tues-
day and Friday at 5 A. M. and arrives in Portland at 6
P. M. through Gray, New Gloucester, Danville, Lewis-
ton, Greene, Monmouth, and Winthrop — fare $3.
Paris, Me, and Portland Stage, leaves Paris, Monday
and Wednesday at 5 A. M. and arrives in Portland at 4
P. M. — leaves Portland, Wednesday and Saturday at 5
A. M. and arrives in Paris at 4 P. M. through Gray, Po-
land, and Norway — fare $2.
Pawluctcet and Providence DUigence Stage, leaves Jenks's
hotel, Pawtucket, every day at 9 A. M. and 2 P. M. and
Kk
•*^
3ti6
APPENDIX.
lenres Clark's, Providence, at 12, noon, and 4 P. M.->
diatance 3 miles— fare 25cts.
Poughkeeptie^ A*. F. and LUel^fieldf Cmn, MaU CoacA,
leaves Poughkeepsie, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at
5 A. M. and arrives in Litchfield same afternoons — leaves
Litchfield, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 5 A. M.
and arrives in Poughkeepsie same afternoons, through
Pleasant Valley, Washington, Dover, America, Sharon,
Ellsworth, and Cornwall to Litchfield— fare $3— Projme-
torSf Wm. Stevens & Co.
Stuo and Portland, Me, »Sceommodation Stc^e, leaves
Saco every day, Sundays excepted, at 7 A. M. and arrives
in Portland at 9 A. M. — leaves Portland same days at 4
P. M. and arrives in Saco at 6 P. M.—Distance 15 miles
— fare 75 cents. — Proprietor's Jlgent A. Rice, Portsmouth.
Saraioga Springs and Manchester, Vt. Stage, leaves Sa-
ratoga Springs, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 5
A. M. and arrives in Manchester same evenings — leaves
Black*8, Manchester, Tuesday, Thuriday and Saturday at
4 A. M. and arrives at Saratoga Springs same evenings,
through Dorset, Rupert, Granville, Fort Ann and Sandy
HUl— fare $2.
Saratoga Springs and Lake George Stages, leave each
place every morning at 9 — distance 28 miles. — Proprietors,
Doney and Patterson.
Springfield, Mass, arid Providence, R. L Stage, leaves
Springfield, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 A. M.
breakfast at A. Norcross's, Monson, h past 5, arrives in
Southbridge at | past 9, dine at Cady's, Gloucester, R. I.
i past 2 P. M. and arrives in Providence at i past 6 same
evenings—leaves Providence, Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday at 4 A. M. breakfast at Cady's, Gloucester, | past
7, arrive
Monson
same ev<
brige,
Smithfie
cross, T
Monson
Brimfiel
Ammed(
bridge ;
Cady, ai
Unitet
Courtlai
arrives t
seats at
landt-sti
same sti
Wisei
Wiscass
arrives
tie, Nol
in Bang
Frankfo
where il
branch '
Sunday,
—next (
Fasseng
arrive ii
ing Port
take th
Tuesday
leaves I
and arri
Bath fc
Belfast
Bangor
APPENDIX.
367
7, arrives in Southbridge at i past 11, and at Norcross^s,
Monson, i past 2 P. M. and arrives in Springfield at 6
same evenings, through South Wilbraham, Brimfield, Stur-
brige, (part of Dudley,) Thompson, Conn. Chepachet,
Smithfield and North Providence. — Proprietors, Amos Nor-
cross, Timothy Packard, Luther Carter, and Joseph Hall,
Monson ; Lewis Williams, John Wyles, and M. Converse,
Brimfield ; James Wolcott, Jr. Samuel A. Groves, E. D.
Ammedown, William Healy, Jr. and John Upham, South-
bridge ; H. Cady, Gloucester. — Agents, A. Norcross, H.
Cady, and W. Healy, Jr.
XJnUed States Mail Coach, leaves the coach office, No. 1,
Courtlandt-street, New- York, every day at 2 P. M. and
arrives at Philadelphia next morning at 6 — application for
seats at the coach and steam boat office. No. 1 Court-
landt-street, or at the bar of the Northern Hotel, 79
same street. — Proprietors, Lyon, Ward, Bailey, & Go.
Wiscasset, Belfast, an^ Bangor, Me, Stage, leaves
Wiscasset, Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday at 2 P. M. and
arrives in Belfast next days at 10 A. M. via New-Cas-
tie, Nobleborough, Waldoborough, and Union, and arrives
in Bangor at 6 P. M. — on Monday and Saturday via
Frankfort and Hampden, on Wednesday via Bucksport,
where it arrives at 3 P. M. — on Monday and Saturday a
branch via Warren and arrives in Thomaston at 9 P. M.
Sunday, Tuesday and Friday arrives in Belfast at 10 A. M.
•—next days via Camden, Lincolnville, and Northport. —
Passengers, leaving Portland on Tuesday and Friday may
arrive in Bangor next days via Augusta or Belfast — leav-
ing Portland for Bangor on Sunday to avoid delay must
take the stage for Bath — leaves Bangor on Sunday and
Tuesday at 4 A. M. and arrives in Belfast at 10 A. M. —
leaves Belfast, Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday at I past 10,
and arrives in Wiscasset at 8 A. M. next days — fare from
Bath ferry to Wiscasset, 50 cts. ; Waldoborough $1 12 ;
Belfast $2 ; Bangor $2 ; whole fare from Portland to
Bangor f 7 62.
.168
APPENDIX.
Rochester to Utica,'-Fare at 4 cts. per mile.
MUes.
From Rochester to Pittiford, 10
. Fullam*8 Basin, 16
Palmyra, 29
Newark, 37
Lyons, 44
Clyde, 63
Montezuma, 64
Bucksville, 70
Weed's Basin, 73
Jordan, 79
Canton, 85
9 Mile Creek, 91
Geddes', 97
Syracuse 99
' Orville, 105
Manlius, lOB
Cbitteningo, 116
New Boston,. 120
Canastota, 124
Oneido Creek, 129
Loomis', 132
Smith's, 138
Rome 149
Oriskany, 153
Whiteaborough, 156
Utica...... IGO
»\
INDEX.
A. • .
Ackland, Major, iSi
Lady Harriet, 137
Albany 42
Alexandria (D. C.) 338
Amboy 29
Amherst 258
Ammonoosuc River (Lower) 270
Andre's Grare 36
Capture and Execution 34
Andover 296
Anthony's Nose, Hudson River 31
on Erie Canal, 60
Lake George ..» 172
Antiquities 82, 102, 116, 263, 330
Aqueduct, Lower, 57
Upper, 57
at LUtU Falls 63
Rochester, 75
Arnold's Treachery 34
Arsenal 251
Troy, 52
Q,uebec, • • 211
Ascutney Mountain 265
Assomption River 201
Attleborough 285
Auburn 114
B.
Baker's Falls 230
Ballston Springs 140
Kk2
370
INDEX.
Baltimore 340
Bangor 331
Bartlett 310
Basin Harbour 184
Batavia 104
Bath {Maine) 329
iJ^.H.) 270
(jsr.r.) 24
Battle of Bemis's Heights 127
Bennington 127
Bloody Brook 259
Booth Bay 326
Bridgewater, or Lundy*s Lane, 89
Bunker'sHill 288
'^^ Chippewa 87
-•- Erie 98
]^. Groton 275
^^- Johnstown 60
!;^^; LakeGeorge 165
' - Lexington 295
• \, Pequod 276
'f-'' Plattsburgh 185
^' Princeton 20
^f Quebec 215
-r! Do. in 1775 217
Queenston 81
Rocky Brook 160
Sachem's Field 281
: ■' Saratoga 147
: Ticonderoga 218
Trenton 19
- ^ Turner's Falls 261
White Plains 29
Beauport 218
Bellows Falls 263
Bethlehem 16
Beverly 319
Black Rock 99
Bloody Brook 259
Pond 160
Bloomfield 106
INDEX.
371
340
331
310
184
104
329
270
24
127
127
259
326
89
288
87
98
275
60
165
295
276
IBS
20
215
217
81
160
281
147
218
19
261
29
218
263
16
319
99
259
160
106
Blue Hills 286
Book recommended 25
Borough 122
Boston 287
Bordentown 18
Brattleborough 262
Bristol 18
Brock's Monument 82
Battery 214
Brookfield 292
Bufialo 99
Bunker's Hill 288
Burgoyne's (Gen.) Expedition 124
BatUeGround 129
Qu irters 137
Retreat 136
'^' Surrender < 155
Burlington (JV. J. ) • - 183
{Vermont) 269
Caldwell 161
Canada, General Remarks on 94
Canals,
Blackstone Canal 285
! Cayuga and Susquehannah do 113
'] Cliampiain do 55^
Connecticut do 252
' Eriedo 342
Maine do 328
Massachusetts do 252
Pennsylvania do 10, 16
Vermont do (proposed) 272
Wellanddo 273
Canal Boat, Description of, 50
Canal Routes,
From Albany to Schenectady 50
Auburn to Syracuse 116
Boston to Chelmsford 295
^ J ; Rochester to Lockport 78
' Schenectady to Albany • • • • 119
372
INDEX.
From Schenectady to Utica SS
Syracuse to Uoehester 74
Syracuse to Utica 117
Utica to Schenectady 118
Utica to Syracuse 66
Cansyoharie 60
Canandaigua 106
Gape Diamond 812
Rouge 222
St. Vincent 98
Carthage 73
Castle of St. Louis 211
Catskill 37
Mountains 37
Caughnawaga 59
Cayuga Lake Ill
Centre Harbour. 301
Chambly 224
Charleston {S, C.) , 334
Charlestown (Mass.) 288
(JSr.H.) 264
Charter of Connecticut 243
Chaudiere River 207
Chazy 186
Chelmsford 297
Chimney Point 181
Chippewa 87
Cleaveland 101
Coal Mines of Pennsylvania 16, 17
Colleges,
Amherst 258
Andover 296
Brown 284
Burlington 185, 269
Cambridge 295
Dartmouth 269
Hamilton 64
Yale 233
Concord 298
Congress Hall 148
Spring..... ,,. 14
INDEX. . 373
Connecticut River • 238
Navigation of do 271
Conway 305
Crawford's House. 312
Crow Point 181
D.
Deaf and Dumb Asylums 224
Dedham 285
Deerfield 260
Delaware River 18
- and Hudson Canal 16
and Rariton do 19
and Susquehannah do 10
Dieskau (Gen.) 165
Dobb's Ferry 29
Dorchester Heights 289
Dover 297
Dunning-street 123
East Bay 227
East Canada Creek 60
Easton 12
Elizabethtown • 21
Essex (Cmin.) 238
(jsr.r.) 185
F.
Fairfield 231
Falls,
Baker's 230
Bellows 263
Carthage 76
Catskill 40
Glen's 158
Ithaca 113
Miller's 230
Montmorency 218
Niaglara 80
^ ■
374
INDEX.
Rochester 76
South Hadley 25l
Trenton 65
Turner's 261
FiflhUU Mountain 37
Franconia 300
Frazer's Death 138
Grave 136
Forts.
, Adams 282
Anne 228
. Clinton 30
. CrowuPoint 181
,; Edward 230
r Green 283
Griswold 275
Herkimer 64
t Hunter., 29
Independence 29
Lee. 28
Miller 131
Mohawk's 29
; Montgomery 30
' ' Niagara 47
•^ Oswego.... 97
* Plain 60
Putnam 32
* Saybrook 237
Stanwix 66
Ticonderoga 173
Trumbull 274
Washington 28
William Henry 168
Wolcott 282
Fryeburgh . . 306
Galloway 145
Gates's (Gen,) Camp 128
Geddesburgh 73
Genesee River. 96
Geneseo
Georgeti
German
Grand R
Green B
Greenfie
Gulf Ro
Haddam
Hadley .
Hallowe
Hambun
Hamptoi
Hanover
Harlem.
Hartford
Hatfield
Haverhil
Hell Gat
Herkime
Highland
Hoboken
Horsenei
Hudson.
]
Hunt's F
Hydrost]
Mei
Mol
Mol
Pok
One
Peqi
Sen
Tus
INDEX.
37;
Geneaeo 105
Georgetown (D. C-) 838
German Flats .... 63
Grand River 101
Green Bay ,, 101
Greenfield 250
Gulf Road 265
H.
Haddatn 239
Hadley 258
Hallowel 332
Hamburgh 13
Hampton , 322
Hanover 269
Harlem 231
Hartford (Conn.) 243
{Vermont) 184
Hatfield 253
Haverhill (Mass.) 297
(JV. r.) 270
Hell Gate 232
Herkimer .' 64
(Gen.) 61
Highlands 30
Hoboken 27
Horseneck 231
Hudson. 41
River. • 26
Hunt's Farm. 264
Hydrostatic Locks 53, 64, 71
I,
Indians,
Menominies • 101
' Mohawks 59
Mobegans 279
Pokanokets 283
Oneidas 67
Pequods 231, 277
Senecas 102
Tuscaroras 70
.1.^4
376
INDEX.
Islands.
In Lake Champlain * 184
George 163
Ontario 184
Isle Aux Noix 186
Ithaca 113
J.
Jacques Cartier 207
Jarvis's Farm 263
Johnson {Sir Wm») 59
Johnstown 59
Junction 55
^. •• ..... K. ■ ?.
Ken.3ebec River 329
Kennebunk 324
Kidd, the Pirate 235
Kingsbridge 29
Kosciusko's Retreat 32
Ktardin Mountain. 331
■'' ■••• ■ ■■' ■ L.
La Fayette Spring 141
Lakes,
Cayuga Ill
Ganandaigua 107
Champlain 180
Erie 91, 100
George «... 161
Excursion to, 157
Of the Clouds 315
Ontario , 91
St. Peter 205
Saratoga 151
Seneca 110
Winnipiseogee 300
Lancaster 271
Laprairie 190
Lead Mines 241
1ND£X.
377
. 184
. 163
. 184
. 186
. 113
. 207
. 263
. 59
. 59
. 55
329
324
235
29
32
Z'Sl
111
107
180
91, 100
161
157
315
91
205
151
110
300
271
190
241
Lebanon Springs 44
Leroy 104
Lewiston 80
Lexington 295
Little Falls 63
Littleton 270
Little Schuylkill 14
Liverpool . . . . ■ 73
Lockport 79
Long-Branch 24
Long Level 64
Lorette 212
LovePs Fight 308
Pond 307
LunJy's Lane 89
Lynn, 318
M'Crea's Murder 229
M'Donough's Victory 185
Macbiche 201
Maitland's (Sir P ) Residence 81
Manayunk 12
Maps,
Hudson River 26 and onward.
Erie Canal 50 and onioard.
Lake Champlain. 170 and onward.
of the Routes 1
Connecticut River 232
St. Lawrence 200
Marblebead 320
Massacre at Fort Wm. Henry 163
Mauch CUunk 17
Mechanicville 122
Miantonimo 2S1
Middletown 240
Military Academy — West Point 33
Middletown 240
Miller's Falls 230
Mohawk £9, 61
Mohegan 277
LI
373
INDEX.
Montmorency. , 218
Montpelier 266
Montreal 192
Morristown 98
Mbunt Carbon 14
Holyoke 255
Hope 283
Vernon 338
Washington 313
N.
Nahant 290
New-Brunswick 21
Newburgh , 36
Newburyport 321
New-Haven 232
New-Lebanon Springs 44
New-London 275
Newport 281
New-York 22
Niagara Falls, from American side 80
Canada side 83
Norristown 13
Norwich 279
Northampton 252
Notch in the Mountains 312
House 31 1
0.
Ogdensburgh 98
Oneida 67
Orange Springs 37
Orwigsburgh 14
Oswego 97
Canal 71
Overslaugh 41
Ox Bow 270
Packet Ships 24
Boats on Canals 50
.jt* »
218
266
192
98
14
255
283
338
313
290
21
36
321
232
44
275
281
22
80
83
13
279
252
312
311
98
67
37
14
97
71
41
270
INDEX.
379
Palatine 61
Palisadoes 27
Paria 310
Pawtucket 284
Pequod Indians 231
Perth Amboy 21
Philadelphia 5
Pickwaket Mountain 30o
Piermont 270
Pine Orchard 38
Plainfield 881
Plains of Abraham 215
Pittsburgh 185
Port Genesee 96
Port Kent 185
Portland 325
Portsmouth 322
Poughkeepsie 37
Princeton 20
Prisons, {State)
Maine 330
Massachusetts 289
New-York 114
New-Hampshire t 298
Pennsylvania ...» j 6
Vermont 265
Providence ^ 284
Q.
Quebec 208
Queenstown 81
Kapids of Niagara 85
Richelieu 206
St. Mary 201
Red Mountain 301
Reidesel, Baroness, 137
Rensselaerwyck 50
Ridge Road 78
3S0
INDEX.
* Roads. (Sec page 344.)
Routes. (See Tours.)
Roxbury 285
Koyalton 266
Saco 324
Sackett's Harbour 97
St. Johns 18S
St. Lawrence 191, 200
Salem 319
Salina 71
Salt Springs 73
Sandusky 101
Sandy Greek •. 77
Sandy Hill 159
Sandy Lake 52
Sans Souci 140
Saratoga 147
Saybrook 236
Schenectady 57
Schoharie Greek 59
Scholey's Mountain Springs 24
Schuyler, Gen 155
Schuylersviile 154
Schuylkill River 11, 12
Water Works 8
Shaker Village 47
Seneca Indians 102
Lake 110
Sorel River 186
Village 204
South Bay 226
Spa, Ballston 140
Lebanon 44
^ Saratoga 147
Springs.
' Ballston 140
' Burning 87, 107
New-Lebanon 44
Saratoga 147
Spring
Squai
Staffoi
Statei
INDEX.
381
Suffield 249
White Mountains 306
Springfield 250
Squam Lake 304
Stafford 344
Staten Island '21
Steam Boats.
From New- York up the Hudson 26, 27
New-York to Connecticut 22
New- York to Rhode Island 22
on Cayuga Lake Ill
on Lake Champlain 224
on Lake George 163
on Lake Ontario 96
on Lake Erie » 101
on the St. Lawrence 200
Stillwater 123
Stonington 276
Stony Point 30
Suffield 249
Sugar-Loaf Hill 259
Syracuse 70
T. ^
Table Rock 84
Tarrytown 29
Thames River 277
Thimble Islands 235
Thomastown 330
Three Rivers - 205
Ticuiideroga 173, 225
Tour of Maine 318
of New-England 231
to Niagara 50
to the Pennsylvania Coal Mines 9
to Quebec 157
to the White Mountains 295
L12
382 INDEX.
I-
• :. ,,.;..■^ -. , u. . ..' •'
Uncaa 279
Utica 64
V. •
Vernon (Mount) 33S
Verplanck^s Point 20
W.
WadswortVs Farm 105
Walpole (N. H.) 262
( Mass. ) 285
Ware 293
Washington 336
Waterloo (N. Y.) 113
(Canada) 93
Waterford 121
Water Gap 14
Weed's Basin 74
Weehawken 27
Weigh Locks 53, 64, 71
Welles. ..4,. 327
West Canada Creek 65
West PoiSff': 33
Weth^rsfield, (Con.) 232
(Verm.) 264
Whirlpool 83
Whitehall 227
White Mountains 313
River 265
Wiscasset 329
Wolfe's Cove 207
Wood Creek, near L. Champlain 228
Worcester j> 247
Y.
York 323
279
64
33S
20
, 105
262
285
293
336
113
93
121
14
74
27
1,71
327
65
33
232
264
83
227
313
265
329
207
228
247
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FOR
STRAXTGERS AMD TRAVEIiZ^ZiRgf.
At the Geographical Establishment, 124 Broadway, op-
posite the City Hotel, New- York, may constantly be had
all the most important new Maps and Geographical and
Statistical works relative to the United States, viz.
Eddy*s Map of the State of New- York, on four sheets,—
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The scale is ten miles to the inch. This is one of the
most correct and elegant maps ever published, it includes
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J\Ielish'*s large and correct Map of the United States, on
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Other Maps of the United States, of various sizes and
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MelisWs Map of the World, on 4 sheets, on Mercator's
projection — either portable or on rollers — with a book
of description, in 8vo. of 289 pages, and maps of the
Isthmuses of Suez and Darien — forming a most valua-
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Melish*s Geographical Description of the United Sttdes, with
the contiguous countries, including Mexico and the
West Indies, intended as an accompaniment to the map,
a new edition, being the third, greatly improved and
enlarged, and containing 12 small maps of the environs
of the principal cities, the falls, lakes, springs, &c. and
forming a most desirable travelling companion to the
citizen or stranger — one vol. 8vo. containing 500 pages,
price $2 50
Melish*s Description of the Worldf on a similar plan to the
above - - - . - - - $1 50
Pocket MapSf of every description, of the United States,
or of each state, or of several states — on bank paper,
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A new Map of the jSTorthern and Middle Sections of the
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varnished and handsomely mounted.
The Traveller's Directory in the United StateSj containing
•sl description of all the principal roads, canals, &c.
with remarks on the rivers and other objects — a com-
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gulations, land-offices, and military posts — the last na-
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the population — and a statistical view of the United
States, containing a geographical description of the
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topographical tables of the counties, towns, popula-
tion, &c., being a complete epitome of the geography
and statistics of this country — the whole is the result
of several years' labour and research — one vol. 12mo.
of 250 pages, with a map of the United States, dia-
gram, &c. — price $2 half-bound, or $2 50 done up iti
a pocket-book form, in red morocco, with a tuck, &c.
Picture of J^ew-Yorkj and Stranger''s Guides a new and
improved edition, with a new map of the city, list of
streets, and views of public buildings - jjJl 50
A new and embellished Plan of the City of J^ew-York,
or Stranger's Manual, showing the new division of tlie
city into 12 wards — coloured — price, 60 cents in a
vslieot, or 75 cents in a red ca?e.
Akerly's Geological View of the Country adjacent to ihe
Hudson River, with a coloured sketch and profile — 75
cents.
Map of the Hudson River, on 7 sheets, on a scale of two
miles to the inch — exhibiting the mountains, altitudes,
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ner highly satisfactory to the scientific or curious tra-
veller — price $1 50, or done up in a portable form and
half-bound $2 50.
New Map of MexicOf by Tanner, on one large sheet of
bank paper, coloured, price - - - $2 50
New Map of the Republic of Colomhiaf on one sheet — a
most beautiful and correct map - - $1 50
New Map of Florida, on one large sheet of bank paper,
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new national Ship Canal across the Isthmus $2 50
Maps and Profiles of the New-York Canals
Spafibrd's Gazetteer of the State of New- York, new edi-
tion, of 600 pages of closely printed matter, forming a
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details of statistics — with a map of the state — Svo. full
bound -- $3
Spafibrd^s Pocket Guide to the Canals, and interior com-
merce of the State of New- York, 2d edition — price
50 cents.
History of the State of New- York, by Yates and Moul-
ton, 1st vol. $1 50
Aliases.
Lavoisgnes Atlas, folio. . . _ - g;25
The American Atlas, on the plan of Lavoisgnes, contain-
ing 53 maps, and numerous chronological and historical
tables, folio, half-bound - - - . $20
Finley^s General Atlas, containing 60 maps quarto size-^
coloured, finished, and bound in the best manner, and is
the cheapest and besl collection published - $10
Finley's American Alias, containing 15 folio sheets of
maps on a large scale, coloured - . - $8
Morse''s new Universal Atlas of the world, on an improved
plan*, consisting of 30 maps, carefully prepared from
< I
Wm latest authorities, with complete alphabetical iri'
dexes, quarto $7
Maps of Europe^ Jlsia, and Africa, on 4 sheets, mounted,
and coloured, each ..... ^g
do. do. London edit. - - - - - jj(l2
Maps of various sizes on one sheet from 50 cents to $^3
Dissected maps of the United States, Kngland, Scotland,
Ireland, turope, \sia, Africa, North and South Ame-
rica, and others, from $1 oO to %'i 50.
The Travdjer's Guide in New- England, containing the
Connecticut River Tour, 60 cents.
The Northern Traveller, or Guide to the Lakes and
Springs, &c. a new edition containing ^00 pages l8mo.
with 28 views and maps — neatly half-bound, $2 50
— the same with 8 maps added, viz. of the environs of
Boston, New- York, Fhiladelpbta, Baltimore, Washing-
ton, Charleston, Falls of Niagara, and Ballston and
Saratoga Springs— /u// bmmd^ and gilt, $3 50
Vance's M&p of the middle and western counties of the
State of New- York, on a scale oi 5 miles to the inch —
price $8, in a portable form.
A. T. Goodrich, 124 Broadway, also keeps for sale, the
best assortment of fine Stationary, and articles for the
use of travellers, viz. patent glass, air tight, and brass
screw top Ink^^tands — toilet Inkstands, silver and steel
pens, silver and gold pencil cases, Rodgers' best Pen-
knives, Scissors, Morocco writing cases, and roll up
Port Folios and Pouches, Flat ditto. — Albums and
Blank Books, copying Machines, and manifold writers,
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Of Books and J^ew F*ublicationSj a general assortment.
Travellers and strangers just arriving in this country from
Europe or elsewhcp-, can always receive at this place
the most correct iiiformation as to the geography and
statistics of the United States.