u^^ ^,^0. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I u< lU 12.2 2? 144 "«■ Ul no 1^ iiSSliU4 IIIIJ4 t ^ 6" - ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) 872-4503 U.x CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historlquM \ \ Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlced below. L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a iti possible de se procurer. Les details de C9t exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiqute ci-dessous. D D D D V D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagte Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ et/ou pellicuMe □ Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes gAographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli* avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte. mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas iti film^es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires: D D D D D D Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurtes et/ou pelliculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dicolories. tachetdes ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes r~/\ Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualiti inigale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel supplAmentaire I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slip::, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to en. ur) the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuiilet d'errata, une pelure. etc., ont M filmies A nouveau de ta^on A obtenir la meiileure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiqu* ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X lire details ues du : modifier ger une fiimage The copy film«d h«r« has bMn raproduotd thank* to tha generosity of: Harold Campbali Vaughan Mamorial Library Acadia Univanity The images appearing here are tha bast quality possible considering tha condition and laglblllty of the original copy and in Icaeping with tha filming contract specifications. L'axemplaire filmA fut raproduit grica * !■ ^ g4nirositA da: Harold Campbali Vaughan Mamorial Library Acadia Univanity Las images suivantes ont At* reproduites avac la plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at da la nettetA de rexemplaira f llmA, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de fiimage. i6es Original copies In printed paper oovars ara fllmad beginning with the front cover and anding on the last page with a printed or iilustratad Impras- slon, or the bacic cover when appropriata. All other original copies are filmed baginning on tha first page with a printed or iilustratad Impras- slon, and ending on the last paga with a printad or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each mioroficha shall contain the symbol -<^> (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Las axempiaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprlmte sont filmAs en commen9ant par la premier plat at en terminant soit par la darnlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres axempiaires originaux sont filmte en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration at en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboies suivants apparaftra sur la darnlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols —► signifle "A SUIVRE". le symbols y signifle "FIN". re Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be fllmad at different reduction ratios. Those too larga to ba entirely included in one exposure ara fllmad beginning in the upper left hand oornar, laft to right and top to bottom, as many framat as required. The following diagrams illustrats tha method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre fiimts A des taux de rMuction diffArents. Lorcque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un saul cliche, 11 est film* A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. y erkata ad to nt ne pelure, i^on d 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 w^l mm v-^. v^)/^ ^'"^t- ■^^1^ r,c^ - >*=:!/ jff*;'". ^*. "X / W?"^ *■> T] r^ The C -J- / Zc '/■/ WESTWARD TO The Far East w ,-/ A GUIDE TO-THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF CHINA AND JAPAN BY ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE. ISSUED BY The Canadian Pacific Railway Company. 1891. ' oH-< A PREFACE. "Westward to the Far East" is intended to supply general information in a concise form to those who may be desirous of visiting Japan and China, as wU as to serve as a guide to those visiting thusc portions of the orient by the Canadian Pacific Route. It is not an elaborately descriptive work, nor is it a mere bald state ment of times, distances and measurements. It indi- cates the chief points of beauty and inierest along the route and in Japan and China, dealing at sufficient length with each subject to satisfy the casual observer, and referring those who desire more detailed informa- tion to the several sources from which that may be obtained. It is intended to tell the possible traveller what there is to be seen and the actual traveller how to see it. It should be, if its author's good intention is fulfilled, interesting to the one and useful to the other. It is the result of personal observation and enquiry prompted by the desire to acquire the knowledge most useful to a tourist, and while being a trustworthy guide to those travelling in the countries referred to, will teach others a g^reat deal about China and Japan which they cannot 'ail to be interested in knowing. Those who have made up their minds to take this enjoyable trip will, of course, require Information — which being subject to change is not found in the guide book — concerning sailings of steamships, baggage allowances, tickets, connections and so forth, for which application' should be made to one or other of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's Agents. And such intending travellers will proSably like to have the companion, "The New Highway to the Orient," a handsomely illustrated pamphlet, which tells of the journey across the continen:, and which the agents of the company will furnish with pleasure to any one desirous of reading it. GENERAL PASSENGER DEPT. Montreal, July, 1891. 3^' o ' A WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. " Pass not tiniuarkud the Islands In that sea, Whore Nature claims the most celebrity, Half hidden, stretchini; in a lengthened lino In front of China, which it° Ktiide shall be, Japan abounds in mines of silver fine And shall unllghten'd be by holy faith divine." Camoens, The Lusiad. -8 i-8 M -8 \/ When Columbus sailed westward to find a shorter route to the indies, he was thinking,' ns well of the fabled Zipangu of which Marco Polo had heard at the court of Khublai Khan. Leaving San Salvador and sighting Cuba, the great admiral was sure that Zip- angu's palace, with its roof, floors and windows "of gold, in plates like slabs of stone, a good two fingers thick," was Vi. ar at hand. Fortunately for us, Japan was held in reserve for this century and this generation, and this exquisite country— different in itself from the rest of the world and all this side of the planet, as quaint and unique, as beautiful and finely finished as one of its own nehukes or minute works of art— delights the most jaded traveller and charms every one who visits it. Columbus failed to find this Zipangu, or Jeh Pun, the Land of the Rising Sun; but Pinto did in 1542 and made possible the work of St. Francis Xavier and the early Jesuit fathers, but for whose interference with political affairs the country would not have been closed to all foreign intercourse until Commodore Perry's visit in 1853. The sperm whale was the innocent factor in this great result, and after quoting Michelet's praise of the whale's service to civilization, * Nitobe says: "That the narrow cleft in the sealed door of Japan, into which Perry drove his wedge of diplomacy, was the rescue of American whalers." From providing a grudging refuge for shipwrecked and castaway mariners, Japan now welcomes visitors from all the world and bids them enjoy an Arcadia whei'e many things are so strange and new that one might as well have journeyed to another planet. Within a few years pleasure travellers around the world have more than quadrupled in numbers, and a girdling of the earth is now the grand tour, which a little round of continental Europe used to be. The trip to Japan for Japan's sake alone is altogether an affair of these later days. More travellers, better ships; better ships, more travellers, is an old axiom in shipping circles, and ♦ " Intercourse Between the United States and Japan," by Inazo (Ota) Nitobe. Baltimore: John Hopkins, Pren., 1S91. 6 WKSTWAKt) TO TIIK I' AH LAST. thiTC is proof in the increasiint; nuinl)cr of trans-Pacific passcn- j;ors and tht presence of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company's Meet ol new steamships which carry them across the greater ocean. With their ch)se connection with the company's transcontinental railway a new era of travel be^'ins. Tliere is every inducement and temptation to make the circuit of the ijlobe, and Japan fairly beckons one across and alonj,' this hijjhway to the Orient. With hut two changes, one may jjo from Honjj Konji to Liverpool, more than half way around the >jlobe; and from Honjj Konj,' to the Atlantic steamer a uniform decimal system of coinage solaces a tourist's existence. Time and distance have been almost annihilated by modern machinery, and the trip from New York to Yokohama takes no lonyer now than did the trip from New York to Liverpool l)ut a few years ago. Ten days after leaving Yokohama the Empress of India had arrived at Vancouver, and in less than fifteen days from leaving Japaticsc shores its passengers were in New York and Boston. Inside of sixty days one may leave New York, cross the continent and the Pacltic, spend four weeks i'l the cities and famous places of Japan, and return again to New York; where, if he commit himself to Atlantic ships and waves, he will remember and more keenly appreciate the delights of the Pacific voyage. Each year is Europeanizing and changing Japan, and the sooner the tourist goes, the more Japanese will he find those enchanting islands. Every season is a good season to visit Japan, and in every month of the year he will find something peculiar to that season in addition to the usual features. The time of the cherry blossoms and the season of the chrysanthemums are the gala weeks of the year, and during those April and October fetes the climate leaves little to be desired. The somewhat rainy seasons of June and September render those months the least desirable, and the heat of midsummer is a little trying to some; yet from the first poetic days of springtime to the end of the long- drawn autumn the out-door life gives an interest and color which the winter months lack. The autuntn usually merges into an Indian summer which may last until January, and the frost sum- mons such a carnival of color as even the Canadian and the American, used to their own brilliant autumnal foliage, may marvel at. In midwinter, Tokio is crowded, parliament is in session, the court is in full social activity, pageants and holidays are many, and even at its worst, the weather is a gentle contrast to that of the continent across the Pacific. " The Japanese," says Percival Lowell,* " makes love to Nature and it almost seems as if Nature heard his silent prayer and smiled upon him in acceptance; as if the love-light lent her face the added beauty that it lends the maid's. For nowhere in this world, probably, is she lovelier than in Japan; a climate of long, * "The Soul of the Far East," by Percival Lowell. Boston and New York: Houghton, Mifflin iS: Co., 1888. happy m of aiituni flowers, \ grow war the mapli tropic .UK one long A day ACROSS CONTINI highway ( joins the lliem. li smokes a continent tiie new prairies, ( ranges of pictures, and conq with the woodland up side b> the travel human ra With 1 piece of : and bird's pencilling journal ai he will fit perfect Iv ' may rest At Glaci( mountain there is tl in the wo into whos too, anotl tales of tl man's ne AtVa VANCOUl ain outlo of etcrnt cifir passcu- y Company's 'cater ocean, scontinental inducement Japan fairly It. With hut 'rpool, more "Con^' to the iji.' solaces a 1 by modern na takes no e rpool but a he I'ju press fifteen days I New York York, cross le cities and k; where, if II remember c voyage, m, and the find those visit Japan, peculiar to time of the ms are the id October what rainy IS the least ^ to some; f the long- olor which cs into an frost sum- n and the iage, may nent is in d holidays Ic contrast s to Nature irayer and it her face ere in this te of long, d New York; ACROSS THE CONTINENT. Wt'.STWAKI) TO Tlir. I'AH KAST. 7 happy means and short extremes, months of spring and months of autumn, with but a few weeks of winter in between; a land of llowers, where the lotus and the cherry, the plum anil wistaria, grow wantonly sidr by side; a land where the bamboo embosoms the maple, where the pine at last has found its palm-tree, and the tropic and the temperate zones forget their ^^'parating identity in one long self-obliterating kiss." I. A daylight trip up the Hudson and past Lake Champlain, or a night in a sleeping car, puts the transatlantic or •the New York traveller at the beginning of his journey. From Montreal to Vancouver, the broad highway of the Canadian Pacific Railway bands the continent and joins the two ocean tides, as if only a broad quay separated them. In luxurious cars, where he dines and sleeps, bathes, smokes and reads as in a hotel, he beholds the panorama of the continent. There is revealed .o him every physical feature of the new world, the great lakes, the great rivers, the plains and prairies, forests and swamps, and finally the greatest mountain ranges of the continent succeed one another in the rapidly moving pictures. The engine darts through, climbs over, flanks, encircles and conquers those barriers until, racing down the long cafton with the mad current of the Frazcr, it runs out from the level woodland at the head of Burrards Inlet, and, panting, slows up side by side with the great white steamship that is to convey the traveller across the ocean to that older world, where the human race began. With his annotated time table— the most excellent and useful piece of railway literature ever devised — the tourist has a key and bird's-eye view of the continent beside him, and with his own pencillings by the way on its blank leaves, it becomes the complete journal and record of his days on the overland train. At lianff he will find that the Canadian Pacific Company has provided a perfect hotel in the midst of a mountain wilderness, and there he ' may rest and rejuvenate himself in the magic hot sulphur baths. At Glacier Station, uplifted 4,300 feet above either ocean, the mountain scenery culminates, and besides the giant snow peaks, there is the great glacier of the Selkirks— almost the only glacier in the world reached and literally touched by a railroad train, and into whose crevasses he may look from the car window. There, too, another of the company's hotels invites him to linger, and the tales of the great game in that region would set the dullest city man's nerves a tingle. At Vancouver a still larger and better hotel has been provided by the same far-seeing company, and although in the heart of the town, its site affords it a fine mount- ain outlook. Southward shines Mount Baker, a radiant pyramid of eternal snow, whose fascination grows upon one, and which VANCOUVER. 8 WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. Vancouver folk are beginning to look upon with an affection and reverence that shadows the feeling of the Japanese for iheir sacred Fujiyama. A mountain wall rises straight across the harbor, and behind it is the lake from which the city receives its water supply, the pipes being laid in the bed of the inlet, whose waters, too, are so clear that one hardly believes them salt. In them float such large and richly -colored jelly-fish and medusae as one only expects to find in tropic waters, and at low tide the piles of the older wharves offer such an aquarium and museum of marine life as would be worth an admisoion fee on the Atlantic coast. Vancouver can pleasantly entertain a waiting voyager for a few days. Its streets combine frontier and seafaring, backwoods, European, American and Oriental conditions and people. One curio shop sells basket w irk, silver and slate carvings brouj^ht in canoes by the coast Indians, and at the next door all the Orient is set before one by Chinese and Japanese traders who add to their stock by each arriving steamer. A mountain of, tea chests is unloaded from each Empress, and a mountain of sacked flour and cotton in bales takes their place. In one shop delicate jeweller's scales weigh the miners' gold-dust poured from buckskin bag or tin box; in another shop lean, yellow Chinese fingers manipulate the silk-strung scales with which the smokers' opium is measured out. A street of trim villas, with beautifully-kept lawns and gardens, becomes a roadway through the forest primeval, and the nine miles of carriage road through Stanley Park show one a forest as dense as a tropical jungle. Where the sombre Douglas spruce grows thickest, there is only a dim, green twilight under their branches at noonday, and the road is a mere tunnel through the original forest. Bushes, vines, ferns and mosses riot there, cedars of California proportions amaze one, and '"c voyager should even rise before the lark, rather than leave without seeing what a northwest coast forest is like. '^'^ming out of the forest to the brow of a cliff, which stands as a gateway to the inlet, one may look almost straight down upon the decks of passing tteamers, and on the rocks below lies the wreck of the Beaver, the first steamer that ever churned Pacific waters. It came round the Horn in 1836, bringing its boiler and engines as freight and they were put in place in the Columbia River. As a Hudson Bay Company's steamer, the Beaver was known to the Indians from Astoria to Chilkat, and much respected by them as a " King George " ship, while Lieut. Pender made soundings and surveys for his British Columbia coast charts. From that estate it fell, and rather than remain a Victoria tug boat the Beaver committed nautical suicide in 1889 by dashing itself against the cliffs of Stanley Park. Close past it sail the three great white Empresses on each inward and outward trip; the first and the latest steamships in the Pacific for an instant side by side. Far more than a half century of inventil little el machii Barrow! Not| THE STEAM I bottomq engin^3 conditic n affection and anese for their jht across the :ity receives its he inlet, whose ves them salt. jelly -fioh and ters, and at low aquarium and ision fee on the voyager for a ng, backwoods, 1 people. One ngs brouj^ht in ill the Orient is ho add to their ', tea chests is icked flour and icate jeweller's uckskin bag or ers manipulate im is measured ept lawns and meval, and the k show one a mbre Douglas twilight under unnel through ses riot there, '"c voyager leave without hich stands as it down upon Ibelow lies the lurned Pacific its boiler and Ithe Columbia b Beaver was ich respected 'ender made Icoast charts. Victoria tug !q by dashing \sses on each iships in the ilf century of THE NEW STEAMSHIPS. WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. • 9 invention would seem to lie between the crude and primitive little engine that beat within the Beavers sides and the powerful machinery that propels these floating palaces, supreme efforts of Barrow-in-Furness master marine builders. Nothing that could be devised in those Lanca^nire yard" was omitted to make the three Empresses triumphs of such arts. Strength and speed were first con- siderations, and with their steel hulls, double bottoms, watertight compartments, twin screws, triple expansion engines and straight record of over nineteen knots an hour, the conditions were more than fulfilled. First for the comfort of the passengers the ships were painted white, making a difference of many degrees temperature between decks in southern waters, and giving them a spick and span look. Four hundred and eighty-five feet in length and fifty-one feet beam, with hurricane deck, cabins and staterooms amidships, there is space, air and steadiness to be enjoyed by the one hundred and fifty cabin passengers w^iich each ship can carry. All staterooms have electric lights, and while electric fans and port-hole scoops give air in tropic regions, steam heat cheers and comforts on the north- ern parallels. Electric fans above the tables replace the flapping flounce of the eastern punkah, and the creaking bar, and the sleepy punkah boy with his string, are no longer known. Chinese servants in caps and snowy blouses minister silently with velvet tread, automatic in their perfection, and the steward's crew are drilled to the wants of the club men and gourmets of the Far East, where dinner is a far more important and serious affair than in England itself. The traveller soon adopts " boy " as the appel- lation of every kind of servant, his luncheon becomes "tiffin," he claps his hands quite as much as he rings the bell or presses the button, and the yellow servitors appear as quickly and silently as Ram Lai, with his key-hole entrances and cloud exits; and the ease, the luxury, and all the creature comforts of the Far East begin to work their spell before many Pacific meridians are left behind. II. While a China steamer lies at Vancouver wharf, the whole town is conscious of the fact. When the "blue peter" flies at the mast head, Vancouver keeps an eye on the inlet, and when the ship sails, all Van- couver goes down to the wharf and speeds the Empress on her way. The ship often waits as late as fifteen o'clock in the after- noon, by the Canadian Pacific's twenty-four hour time system, in order to get the last passengers and the European mails from the overland train; in the short winter days it usually waits till the following morning. Then the lines are cast loose and the ship floats out into the stream. Vancouver cheers and bids the Empress adieu; and, gathering speed, the ship threads the Narrows, sends a great ripple across the Beaver's green bones, gives one a glimpse THE OCEAN START. 10 WESTVVAUD TO TKE FAR EAST. into that magnificent fiord, Howe Sound, and then courses through the sea of islands, the long green-studded stretch of the Gulf of Georgia. For four hours the ship winds its way through land- locked waters before it reaches the open ocean and begins the voyage to the Orient, away from the New World to the Old World, out of the West into the East. A smoke cloud on the Vancouver Island shore tells of Nanaimo's coal mines, where the ship's bunkers were filled, and always in the east shines Mount Baker, its white cone showing as long as land is in sight. Strange markings on the water tell where the fresh water of the Frazer River, with its different density and temper- ature, floats above, or cuts through the salt water in a body, show- ing everywhere a sharply defined line of separation. As silently as if sailing, not a beat of its great engines felt, the ship goes swiftly over almost glassy waters, among numerous islands, until passing between San Juan and Vancouver Islands it sights Beacon Hill, with its many suburban housi , and slows for a few minutes off the outside wharves of Victoria. The pilot clambers down to a waiting boat, carrying last letters and messages ashore and the last passengers are embarked.' The city of Victoria ia all but hidden far within its rock- rimmed and intricate harbor, and the naval station of Esqui- mault only declares itself by the mastheads showing beyond the tree-tops. No one should sail away thinking he has seen all when he has not visited the one city of Victoria on this Western Continent. Other cities named from Her Majesty have each their distinctive charm, but the Victoria of Vancouver is not surpassed. The real harbor upon which the city fronts is a broad basin reached by such a nar- row passage between tree-covered points that larger steamers do not attempt to enter it, stopping instead at the outside wharf at the extreme eastern end of the city. So intricate is this inside harbour, with its many smaller bays and arms, that no tide table has ever been made out for it, and that mystery of the moon and the sea remains a riddle to scientist and mariner. On one arm of the harbour stands the old Hudson Bav Company's storehouses, reminders of that day when those earliest pioneers erected their block houses and traded with the Indians for pells. Slowly the town grew, Frazer River, Cariboo and Cassiar mining booms bringing prospectors, pioneers and settlers to know the place and slowly add to its importance in that long ago before the 6o's. While British Columbia was an independent colony and Sir James Douglas and the other governors reigned undisturbed on this remote coast, Victorians had an even greater pride in their city. Those were the good old days of which it is most interesting to hear, but since the province joined with Canada, its fortunes have grown apace and the sentiment of the older residents has given way to great satisfaction with its wonderful later development and prosperity. VICTORIA, VANCOUVER ISUND. A railvi a railway whizz up wharf, its make bra many hou regret, ho] Victori Louise, wh summer c( hardly she Vancouve fuchsia in century ag Marchand shores to t eight and entangle t forest sett wonder, in the surr feels pridt just west o workshops ing from tl side of the Up the nights whe winding ar and boil, a is an excui Life gc sea. Its c and tennis tary and n oiificial flaA Leaviu] heading al lows the si wall along range just snow Deal park-like broken wil summits, of smoke the water' candlestic with the I WESTWARD TO THE FAR l?AST. II Lirses through if the Gulf of hrough land- id begins the I to the Old of Nanaimo's always in the long as land ere the fresh ' and temper- X body, show- . As silently he ship goes rous islands, r Islands it , and slows ctoria. The last letters e embarked, in its rock- 3n of Esqui- ving beyond when he has this Western Her Majesty the Victoria ! real harbor y such a nar- er steamers utside wharf s this inside lo tide table e moon and 1 one arm of storehouses, ;rected their Slowly the ning booms 10 place and ire the 6o's. d Sir James bed on this n their city, ting to hear, have grown way to great prosperity. A railway connects the city with the cottl mines and Nanaimo; a railway bridge spans a narrow arm of the harbor; electric cars whizz up and down the streets, across Junieu liay to the outside wharf, its hotels have multiplied and grown, Its streets and shops make brave, gay showing, its Chinatown beguiles the tourist of many hours and dollars, and the passing traveller leaves it with regret, hoping always to return, Victoria has the perfect climate aecording to the Princess Louise, who seeing it smothered in the billows of bloom of its early summer could not say enough in its praise. Southern California hardly shows more of beauty in city dooryards than one sees in Vancouver and Victoria, where the rose, the honeysuckle and the fuchsia in particular, astonish one by their wild luxuriance. A century ago the natural clearings matted with wild roses amazed Marchand, the old French voyageur, who compared Vancouver shores to the rose-covered slopes of Bulgaria. Ferns measuring eight and twelve feet in length, from root to tip of a single frond, entangle themselves by the roadside as foreground to the original forest setting, and every drive shows more of wild beauty and wonder. The sportsman and the angler find as much of delight in the surrounding country as the botanist, and every brave Briton feels pride in the splendid ships at EsquimauU, the naval station just west of the city. There a dry-dock, ship-yard, foundries and workshops, storehouses and magazine supply the fleet, that cruis- ing from the Dominion to Chili looks after British Interests on this side of the Pacific. Up the Arm all young Victoria rows and sings on summer nights when sunset lingers so late; and to pull up this long narrow, winding arm of the sea, through its gorge where the waters swirl and boil, and return with the tide bearing one swiftly back again, is an excursion that delights the Victorian heart. Life goes easily and delightfully in this city by the western sea. Its citizens are sociable and hospitable, There is much tea and tennis, boating and picnicing, dining and dancing, .and mili- tary and naval uniforms brighten such scenes and maintain the official flavor of society at this old provincial capital. Leaving Victoria, the shore scenery grows finer as the ship, heading almost due westward through the Straits of Fuca, fol- lows the sinking sun. The Olympic range stands as a giant sea- wall along the Washington shore, the Angel's Gate, a gap in the range just over the town of Port Angeles, showing a splendid snow oeak in far perspective. Vancouver's shores slope from park-like and cultivated tra .ts by the water to leagues of un- broken wildernesses that clothe the mountain slopes to their very summits. Groups of black cances drawn up on shore, columns of smoke before bark huts, can be seen with the glasses, and all the water's edges are picturesque, Race Hock Light, a mere candlestick standing on the water, signals the steamer adieu with the Union Jack by day, and flashes its while light by night. 13 WliSTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. DISAPPUR- ANCKOrADAV. Far acro88, Cape Flattery's light-keeper hails with the stars and stripes, and then, as she follows the dying day, there lies before the Emprras tlio limitless western ocean, where the sun sets, the sun rises, and tinic begins. Thiti n(!ean voyage of 4,300 miles begins at the 49th parallel of north latitude, and Yokohama lies at 35 degrees 20 THi VOVAOI. , . .u T. ■ ( ,\, J 1 ., minutcH north. By going further north, where the degrees of longitude arc shorter, the distance across is lessened, and the luirving lino of the fdiip's course may run as high as 52 degrees. Once the I'arthia passed near to the shores of Atku Island, and heard "the wolf's long howl," as all Atku is a blue-fox ranch, where those Jinimals are raised by hundreds for their pelts. Crossing the line is the great incident of a Pacific voyage, and the 180th meridian that marks the division between the Eastern and the Western hemispheres, and is the exact antipo "e of Greenwich, lies about five days off the Japanese coast. In going out to Japan, a day is dropped from the calendar, and in going eastward the dav is doubled. One goes to bed on Monday night and wakens on Wednesday morning, or, on the return trip, he arises to live over again and repeat the incidents of the day before. On account of ship's discipline, certain privileges and routine duties of the crew belonging to Sunday, that day is seldom dropped or doubled, and if the nuM'idian is passed on that day notice is rarely paid it. Convivial passengers celebrate the crossing of the line, and the exact moment of transit is always known. The imaginative are bidden to feel the grating of the ship's keel over the meridian, and to see the line itself through a marine glass that has a cob- web thread across one lense. The uphill of the voyage is over, and the descent down hill from the great meridian, out of the West and into the East, is begun. When the ship gets as far west as 160 degrees east from Green- wich the w.vrmer and moister air of the Japan Stream is felt, and if it be in the summer months, the traveller will be glad to have some lighter clothing at hand. Otherwise he needs the same warm and serviceable clothing in the North Pacific as in the North Atlantic. Life on one of the Canadian Pacific steamships presents many allractions that do not appear on the Atlantic LIFE AT SEA. ,, .„, ", ^ ,. , , ., hner. I he passenger need not live below the water line, nor at cither end of a see-saw to begin with, and sea- sickness is not the condition of so large a proportion of his fellows. Either the tourist is a better sailor by the time he reaches Balboa's prcsuniubly placid ocean, or else he gets his sea legs sooner on its longer swells. The best part of the deck space is not taken Uf with rows of mummies, laid out in steamer chairs, and the fetching and carrying of broths and doses are not the usual and nauseous incidents of deck life. So many nationalities are represented, such cosmopolitans and veteran travellers are gathered t( placent yo Columbus shrinks intc at his elbo Manila or the liveries and the coi spot," whet he aims to many miss inhabitants oldsters " o tourneys er divert the of the trave No sail float in the fish or Porti are the me sometimes 1 reliable am Atlantic," a in the Chin| the greater gives long v pheric cond the glass be The typi igators can at the cente open ocean somewhat ( seasons are The Chii ing the air ) the ocean, t living social opium smo have died ii it is contrac not be burie In the If to the litei WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. 13 he stars and e lies before 3un sets, the h parallel of ;5 degrees 20 h, where the is lessened, s high as 52 res of Atku is a blue-fox r their pelts. :ific voyage, between the act antipo ""e B coast. In idar, and in . on Monday irning, or, on r again and On account luties of the i or doubled, rarely paid he line, and imaginative le meridian, t has a cob- age is over, out of the rom Green- is felt, and ad to have s the same c as in the sents many he 7\tlantic beiow the h, and sea- tion of his ; he reaches lis sea legs ck space is mer chairs, ire not the ationalities vellers are gathered together on one of those Pacific steamers, that the com- placent young tourist, whose town and family viewed him as a Columbus or a Stanley, when he started to circle the globe, shrinks into nothingness beside the tea, silk or opium merchant at his elbow, who is making his twentieth or thirtieth round. A Manila or Java planter, a teakwood or pearl merchant from Siam, the liverless Anglo-Indian, the serious Briton in Chinese service, and the commercial traveller, who firmly believes that "Asia's my spot," whether it be Col. Seller's eye-water or a newer commodity he aims to introduce to those millions of customers — all these and many missionaries, as well, meet on board, and constitute the inhabitants of the ship's small world. Veteran travellers, " the oldsters " of the East, have their regular whist set, long-running tourneys enliven the smoking room, games on the broad decks divert the company, and everything is done for the entertainment of the travellers. No sail is sighted between the two shores; no icebergs ever float in the North Pacific; and a whale, a seal, a school of flying fish or Portuguese men-of-war, or a night of phosphorescent waters are the memorable incidents. Great as the wave scenery may sometimes be up by 50 and 51 degrees, the Pacific is a much more reliable and steady-going ocean than " the mournful and misty Atlantic," and the typhoon is its only dreaded storm. Generated in the China Sea, the tai fun (great wind) often circles out into the greater ocean before it expends itself. The barometer always gives long warning, and many people are so sensitive to its atmos- pheric conditions that their nerves foretell a typhoon almost before the glass begins to fall. The typhoon is now so well understood that experienced nav- igators can tell its direction, when the ship is on its outer circles, at the center or beyond its limits, and with a staunch ship in the open ocean there is nothing to dread but the shaking up and the somewhat closer air below. By a rhyming verse the typhoon's seasons are kept in mind: June, too soon. July, stand by. August, you must. September, remember. October, ull over. The Chinese passengers are sometimes interesting. After fill- ing the air with paper joss money, to propitiate the evil spirits of the ocean, they seldom come to the top again during the voyage, living sociably together in the Chinese steerage, where fan tan, opium smoking and chatter goes on. The bones of those who have died in America are often part of the west-bound cargo, and it is contracted that if one of them dies on shipboard he shall not be buried at sea, but embalmed and carried on to China. In the leisure days on board, the traveller may devote himself to the literature of Japan, which is extensive. He must read u WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. THE JAPANESE RENAISSANCE. "The Lfikadci's Empire,''* which the Japanese themselves acknowledge as the best and most reliable vvork upon their tra- ditions, history, manners and customs,! until he knows the outlines of the empire's history. He must know of the Sun Goddess; who peopled the islands; and of Jingo Kogo, the first empress. He must follow the decay of the emperor's power and the usurpation of his functions by the Shogun, until that military vassal became the actual ruler and remained so until the restoration of the eni- pcror to actual power in 1868. He must know of Hideyoshi, the Taiko, the great general of the Middle Ages; and of lyeyasu, the Augustus of the Golden Age; and of Keiki, the last of the Toku- gawa Shoguns. He must learn of the astonishing political changes of this quarter of a century since the Restoration, that marvel of the century — the quick exchange of a feudal system for a constitutional monarchy; tue extinction of a privileged military class, and the election of a lower ho'ise of parliament directly by the people. Theorists are the more puzzled when they confront the race and study the problem on its own ground. " During the last half dozen years," says Mr. E. H. House,j " Japan has made more history for itself than in the preceding two and a half centuries of its own annals. It has exhibited transformations the like of which have required ages to accomplish in any other land." One must study Shinto's shadowy forms, a conventional wor- ship of past heroes and abstract qualities, where myths take the place of creed and articles, but which, by imperial command, has been revived as the state religion with the sovereign as its actual *icad. Buddhism, having come from India by way of China and Korea, is greatly corrupted,and Sinnett is no guide to its twelve sects. Of Japanese art, its industrial arts and architecture. Prof. Rein, Dr. Dresser, Prof. Morse, Dr. Anderson, M. B. Huish and Bing have written§ in recent years. Of its legends and romances Mitford's " Tales of Old Japan " is the treasure-house. Of travels and impressions there are the records of Sir Edward Reed, Miss Bird, Black, Dixon, Lowell and others; and Sir Edwin Arnold, Pierre Loti and Miss Alice Bacon have drawn Japanese women from as many points of view. Everywhere he finds testimony that there is no other people so refined, so courteous, gentle, amiable, mteresting and innately aesthetic as these Latins of the Orient. in. In her " Flying Trip Around the World," Miss Bisland sees " a delicate gray cloud grows up along the edge of the water, and slowly a vast cone-like cumulus, a lofty, rosy cloud t':ikes shape and form, gathers clearness of FUJIYAMA. * "The MikadoV Empire," by W. E. Griffis. New York: Harper & Brothers, t See Nitobe, page 145. % Harper's Magazine, Vol. 46, page 858. § For full titles of books of reference, see list, page 43. outline, d( gray ben( Fujiyama of pink p« its base r the green perceived Porcelain- place acr( ravens by out of not wear their so impossi pass their When YOKOHAK the comp£ 3team lat passenger; gangway, ; seen in all wrote Johi smooth lik of water r< Far off St determine( sails spott( " Hills of i the shapes or six war- barbarous and spread standing ir waists. T white — the the larger backs mad our ship ai rounded u: sharply on those who handsome very squan and unload great load played the Then the i • Century WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. »5 se themselves upon their tra- ws the outlines Goddess; who ; empress. He the usurpation vassal became tion of the eni- Hideyoshi, the of lyeyasu, the 3t of the Toku- hanges of this estoration, that exchange of a monarchy; tiie 2 election of a Theorists are and study the f dozen years," listory for itself its own annals. 1 have required nventional wor- myths take the command, has jn as its actual y of China and its twelve sects, litecture, Prof. [. B. Huish and s and romances ise. Of travels ird Reed, Miss Edwin Arnold, ipanese women inds testimony urteous, gentle, >e Latins of the s Bisland sees ong the edge of ike cumulus, a s clearness of larper & Brothers. ;e 858. YOKOHAMA. outline, deepens its hue of pink and pearl, melts softly into the gray beneath, soars sharply into the blue above, and reveals Fujiyama, the divine mountain!" ***** "A mountain of pink pearl rose out of the sea; and when the gray clouds about its base resolved themselves into land we found that they were the green hills of fairyland." ***** ■• Wg rose up and perceived that we had come to Fan Land — to the Islands of Porcelain — to Shikishima— the country of chrysanthemums. The place across whose gky the storks always fly by day, and the ravens by night— where cherry blossoms, pink and white, grow out of nothing at all to decorate the foreground, and where ladies wear their eyes looped up in the corners, and gowns in which it is so impossible that any two-legged female should walk, that they pass their lives smiling and motionless on screens and jars." When Fujiyama's pearly cone has grown from a pin point's size to a majestic peak, and the steamer coursing up the picturesque Yeddo Bay has made fast at the company's buoy in Yokohama harbor, Japan encircle? one. Steam launches bear down upon the arriving ship and carry passengers and mails ashore. Sampans crowd about the steerage gangway, and the native boatmen and their queer, clean craft are seen in all their picturesqueness, " It is like the picture books," wrote John La Farge in his "Artist Letters."* "The sea was smooth like the brilliant blank paper of the prints; a vast surface of water reflecting the light of the sky as if it were thicker air. Far off streaks of blue light, like finest washes of the brush, determined distances. Beyond, in a white haze, the square, white sails spotted the white horizon and floated above it." ***** " Hills of foggy green marked the new land; nearer us, junks of the shapes you know, in violet transparency of shadow, and five or six war-ships and steamers, red and black or white, looking barbarous and out of place, but still as if they were part of us; and spread all around us a fleet of small boats, manned by rowers standing in robes flapping about them, or tucked in above their waists. There were so many that the crowd looked blue and white — the color of their dresses repeating the sky in prose. Still, the larger part were mostly naked, and their legs and arms and backs made a great novelty to our eyes, accustomed to nothing but our ship and the enormous space, empty of life, which had sur- rounded us for days. The muscles of the boatmen stood out sharply on their small frames. They had almost all — at least those who were young — fine wrists and delicate hands, and a handsome setting of the neck. The foot looked broad with toes very square. They were excitedly waiting to help in the coaling and unloading, and soon we saw them begin to work, carrying great loads with much good-humored chattering. Around us played the smallest boats, with rowers standing up and sculling. Then the market-boat came rushing to us, its standing rowers * Century Magazine, 1890. i6 WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. bending arc! rising, their thighs rounding and insteps sharpening, what small garments they had fluttering like scarfs, so that our fair missionaries turned th ;ir backs to the sight." * * + « But the human beings are not the novelty, not even the Japanese; what is absorbingly new is the light, its whiteness, its silvery milkiness. We have come into it as through an open door after fourteen days of the Pacific." * * * * " i have been ask- ing myself whether it would be possible to have sensations as novel, of feeling as perfectly fresh and new, things I knew almost all about beforehand, had we come in any other way, or arrived from any other quarter. As it is, all this Japan is sudden. We have last been living at home, are shut up in a ship as if boxed in with our own civilization, and then suddenly, with no transition, we are landed in another. And under what splendor of light, in what contrasting atmosphere! It is as if the sV.y, in its variations, was the great subject of the drama we are looking at, or at least its great chorus. The beauty of the light and of the air is what I should like to describe, but it is almost like trying to account for one's own mood — like describing the key in which one plays." The customs examination at the English Hatoba, or landing place, is almost nominal, and only the possession of the strictly contraband drug, opium, can cause trouble. Owing to the exist- ing treaties, accepted by the Japanese when they had not foreseen or understood what foreign trade entailed, five per cent, is the extreme duty that can be levied on foreign goods in any event. With a rush, a dozen jinrikishas come forward and the coolies drop the shafts in a circle around one and invite to the comfortably cushioned seat of the over- grown perambulator. " How do you feel? " shouted one eminent divine to another, as the two were trundled down the Bund. "A-goo! A-goo! Shake a da-da, da-da!" answered the other theo- logian. This admirable vehicle of the Far East was invented or adapted by one Goble, a marine on Commodore Perry's flagship, when he had afterwards returned to Japan as a missionary. Its use dates from 1867 or 1871, as different Japanese authorities assert, but it has quickly spread to China, the Straits, and even India. A tariff of jinrikisha and sampan fares will be found on a conspicuous board at the landing place. The fare is ten cents to the hotel or railway station, ten cents by the hour, or seventy-five cents by the day. In going up the hill to the bluff, the coolie calls an atoshi, or pusher, to help him up the slope, and the pas- senger pays four cents to this assistant at the top. All the houses and places of business in Yokohama are known to the coolies by their numbers, which in Japanese and Arabic numerals are fastened to each door or gate. One may learn the numerals and their written characters from the hotel menu cards, as each dish is numbered in Japanese at one side of the card and in English at the other side. The guest points to the number and the waiter brings the desired dish. JINRIKISHAS. HOTELS. Ban, m( one; go 6a> The Gr or go ban), pnvate bo The two la well on'ere English or comfort, ar summer nii branch hou States Leg; ranging frt The Yo CLUBS. cial census American, hama. Th the Bund, ing rooms, letic Club Ladies' Te on the Blu and autum first namec in a Fuiup are found. The H BANKS. the Charte jiti hachi l )s sharpening, is, so that our i * ♦ "But the Japanese; ss, its silvery jen door after ive been ask- sensations as [ knew almost ay, or arrived sudden. We ip as if boxed no transition, ar of light, in its variations, at, or at least he air is what ng to account :h one plays." t)a, or landing of the strictly S to the exist- 1 not foreseen ^r cent, is the in any event, nd the coolies le and invite of the over- i one eminent m the Bund. he other theo- is invented or rry's flagship, nary. Its use orities assert, ven India. : found on a s ten cents to r seventy-five ff, the coolie , and the pas- tna are known h in Japanese I each door or en characters i in Japanese er side. The desired dish. WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. BILL OF FARE. ►7 Ichi- I. Porridge. ^ Ni- 2. Fried /ish. 7L San— 3. Boiled F-ggs. = Shi- 4. Bacon and Eggs. n Co- 5. Ham and Eggs, X Roktt— 6. Poached Eggs, -h Sh'chi — 7. Omelets. •b Hachi— 8. Beefsteak. A Kti- g. Cold Roast Beef. A Jin- 10. Cold Corned Round Bci ' + Jiu ichi- -11. Cold Tongue. "+ Jiu ni — 12. =+ CLUBS. ^a«, meaning "number," is added to each, as ichiliafh number one; go ban, number five; and ni jiu ban, number twenty. The Grand Hotel (No. 10, or ni jiu ban), the Club I lotcl (No. 5, or go ban), several small hotels in the settlement, and one or two private boarding-places on the Bluft', will receive the stranger. The two largor hotels face on the Bund, or sea wall, and arc as well ort^ered and kept as hotels o' their class in European cities. English or American landlords and French cooks necurc every comfort, and electric lights, steam heat, and band concerts on summer nights, are other features. The Club Hotel maintains a branch house in Tokio, in the buildings long u^cd as the United States Legation. Both hotels are kept on the American plan, rates ranging from three to four dollars per day. The Yokohama United Club (No. 5) and the German Club (No. 235) are the active centers of the social life of the foreign residents, who number 3,700; but this offi- cial census includes 2,471 Chinese, as well as the 616 British, 187 American, 170 German and loi French citizens dwelling in Yoko- hama. The Yokohama Rowing and Athletic Club has a house on the Bund, adjoining the French Hatoba, with gymnasium, dress- ing rooms, boathouse and bathing barge. Th*. Cricket and Ath- letic Club manage the Cricket Grounds in the settlement; the Ladies' Tennis Club cares for the Courts in the Public Gardens on the Bluff; and the Nippon Race Club has its meets each spring and autumn at the Race Course on the Bluff. At the three clubs first named, visitors may be put up by club members, as at a club in a Furupean city, and the usual club comforts and surroundings are found. The Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, on Water Street (No. 2, ni ban); the New Oriental Bank Corporation, Limited (No, 11, jiu ichi ban); the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and Japan (No, 78, sh'chi jiu hachi ban); the Comptoir d'Escompte de Paris (No. 2, ni ban); BANKS. i8 WESTWARD TO TIIK I'AK KAST. and the Yokohama Specie Hank {S/io^-in Cinko), a Japanese cor- poration, all do {general banking business. These banks observe the usual national holidays and - ^ virtually closed during race weeks, which the traveller needs cp in mind. Money changers on Main Strt, ul Bcntcn Dori will, for a trifling percentage, change bank notes into the fractional coins so necessary in this land of many small payments. The Japanese j^;/, at par, corresponds to the American dollar and is made up of one hundred sens, which arc JAPAN MONKV further divided into ten rins each. The deprecia- ted paper yen has for many years been at an average equal exchange with the Mexican silver dollar (value about seventy-five cents gold), which is the current coin and monetary unit through- out China and the Far East. From Hong Kong to Montreal one talks of and deals in dollars and cents, realizing handsome pre- miums in the exchange of Canadian or United States dollars for yens or Mexicans, At the offices of the Canadian Pacific Company's agents, Messrs. Frazar & Co. (No. 200, ni hiakit dan), near the Cricket Grounds, passage may be secured and all information given as to future sailings and accommodations, and assistance rendered in arranging for side trips and connections at the different ports of call. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha (United Japanese Company), owned and managed by the government, have a large fleet of coasting steamers, connecting with alf the ports of Japan, Korea and North China; and ships are despatched to Vladivostock, in Siberia, and Manilla, in the Philippine Islands. The Peninsular and Oriental, the Norddeutscher Lloyd, and the Messageries Maritime Steamship Companies have also offices at Yokohama. Railways now connect all the principal cities in Japan, and the government has now in operation 1,048 miles of road, and 483 miles in course of construction. The first lines were built, equipped and managed by English engineers, but all the railway employes are now Japanese. The post office is on Main Street and mails depart weekly for Europe, and at an average of ten days interval for America. Japan is a member of the Postal Union, and the uniform five sen rate for a foreign letter of fifteen grammes is charged. To any part of Japan the letter postage is two sen for each quarter ounce. The telegraph office is on Main Street {Denshin Kioku). There are lines to all parts of Japan, and the charge is fifteen sen for the first ten kana (square) characters, and ten sen for each succeeding ten characters. In a foreign language the charge is ten sen for each word. A guide, or the hotel clerk, will quickly translate a message into Japanese. There are three cable routes to Europe, the tolls averaging from two to three dollars for each word to New York or Montreal. Tokio time is kept throughout the empire and is nine hours and twenty minutes in advance of Greenwich time. JAPAN RAIL- WAYS. a Japanese cor- ; banks observe icci (luririfr rare Dori will, for ,i ictional coins so American dollar sens, which are The deprccia- average equal out seventy-five ry unit througli- to Montreal one handsome pre- ates dollars for ipany's agents, iar the Cricket tion given as to ice rendered in ifferent ports of ese Company), a large fleet of f Japan, Korea Hadivostock, in rhe Peninsular le Messageries Yokohama. Japan, and the 1,048 miles of construction, nd managed by now Japanese. >art weekly for for America, niform five seti rged. To any quarter ounce. Kiokti). There een sen for the ch succeeding \ is ten se7i for kly translate a tes to Europe, each word to is nine hours WKSTWARI) TO THK FAR KAST. 19 When it is twelve o'clock noon, Monday, in Yokohama, it is — 10.47 ''• "1m Monday, at .Slninghai. " " Ifong Kong. 10.18 " (;.32 " 8.00 " 8.00 " 7.30 " 4.48 " 344 " 2.48 " 2.40 " Q.40 |). m., Sunday, 0.40 " 8.40 " 6.40 " 6.40 " " Sinj^aporc, " Colombo. " Calcutta. " Hombay, " .Suez. " Vienna. " Paris. " London. " New York. " Montreal. " Chicago. " San Francisco. " Vancouver. C0N8UUTE8 AND PASSPORTS. The British and Russian Consulates and the United States Consulate-General are in line on Nippon Odori, the broad street running westward from the main entrance of the Custom House, which adjoins the English Hatoba. The flagstafTs and the colors of those countries will easily guide one from any point. The Kencho, or office of the local Governor, is directly opposite the British Consulate, and the post ofifice is diagonally across from the United States Consulate-General. Yokohama Kencho will issue passports for Miyanoshita and vicinity upon application through any Consulate at Yokohama. Tokio may be visited without a passport, but treaty regulations do not permit any foreigner to go twenty-five miles outside the treaty ports without a passport issued by the Foreign Office of Tokio and stamped by the legation of the applicant. The name of each place which the traveller wishes to visit must be written in the passport. Without such a permit he cannot even Iniy a railroad ticket to any interior point, and it is quite useless to attempt to evade the restrictions, as no innkeeper will receive him without a passport, and the hastily-summoned policeman will return the transgressor to treaty limits and future permits \ 'ill be denied him. Within a few years passport privileges have been much curtailed ancj their use is limited to a shorter time. The wiser tourist will, immediately after arriving, take the railway train to Tokio, distant only eighteen miles, and apply at his legation in person for his passport. Oi.e or two days usually suffice for the exchange of formalities between the legation and foreign ofifice. Naming Nikko, Chiuzenji, Yumoto, Ikao, Atami, Miyanoshita, Gotemba, Subashiri, Nagoya, Kioto and Nara, he covers all the usual routes of tourist travel, and may take which- ever trip offers first. Upon the expiration of the passport it may be renewed; and, in every case, it must be returned to the legation issuing it, when it has expired, or when the holder has concluded :o WKSTWARf) TO TIIR FAR KAST. its use. It Is hartlly necessary to say that a passport is not trans- ferable, atui '.hat some risk attends any such attempt to evade the re},'ulatit)ns. At Kobe, any consul will ol)tain a passport for Kioto from the Kencho, and if the traveler wishes to run up to Kioto for the day that the steamer waits in port, he had best write ahead (inclosing the twenty sat fee), and have the permit left for him at one of the Kobe hotels. Foreign servants must be provided with passports as much as their masters, and most particularly if the servant JAPANI8E iij, Chinese. As a rule the foreign or European AMD GUIDES ^'^'''vjint 's (juitc useless in the Far Fast. The tourist can easily find a well-trained Japanese "boy," or valet, and an ause to leave ight of rever- 5s of its outer ut prelude to gments, deck ;ms to you as nto a tropical ly on temples ry of beauty." beautiful, for I convey any :he loveliness ors, and the le adjectives the hope of rnamentist — mst appear, I imer and the tains to Lake e on foot, in by boat and )to, a favorite e may spend n time for a factory than ested in silk li and thence le Joshu silk , hot mineral \ I AT KOBE. baths*, which attract many of the better clats of Japanese, attract- ive shops, magnificent views from every part of the village and the neighborhood offers many excursions, A good walker, indif- ferent to a little hardship, may get quite off the beaten track by crossing the mountains to Nikko by the Ashiwokaido, a distance of sixty-eight miles. No one should attempt it without a guide, and ladies not at all. Rice cultivation is everywhere to be seen in city suburbs, besides railroads and highway, and one soon grows familiar with the floods fields, the level patches of intensely green spears, or the stacks and festooned fringes of ripened grain. Tea plantations are seen all along the line of the Tokaido Railway, and in the great tea district south of Kioto, The firing and packing for export may be witnessed ut any of the many tea- firing godowns in Yokohama or Kobcf VIII. When the Canadian Pacific steamer*, whose regular ports of call are Yokohama, Shanghai and Hong Kong, do not call at Kobe, the tourist may proceed by connecting steamer to Kobe and through the Inland Sea to Nagasaki. Within twenty-foui hours after leaving Yokohama, such steam- ers enter the Inland Sea and anchor off Kobe, the foreign settle- ment adjoining the ancient town of Hiogo, The tourist may also reach Kobe by the Tokaido Railway in less time (fare $10.74 ist class; $7.16 2d class), or he may stop off at Nagoya to see the ancient castle and the pottery districts, cross Lake Biwa, visit Kioto, Nara and Osaka before taking ship again, Kobe-Hiogo, the second export city of the Empire, with a pop- ulation now exceeding 90,000, has a most picturesque setting, and at night the harbor and hillsides look as if purposely illuminated. The Hiogo Hotel on the Bund, the Oriental, the Hotel des Colo- nies and the German Club Hotel are excellently kept in foreign style. The Consulates, banks and shipping agencies are all in the Concession, between the Hatoba and the railway. The Kobe Club is on the Recreation Ground, or foreign park, just in the rear of the Custom House. The Boat Club further east, and fronting on the beach, has bathing barge, dressing rooms and boat-houses. "the sights of the town are the Nanko Temple and the Shinkoji Temple in Hiogo; the Ikuta Temple, the Nunobiki waterfalls, and the raised river bed, the Minatogawa, which is park and pleasure ground for the Japanese community. The Motomachi, or main street, is a lane of delight in the way of attractive shops. * The Ikao baths are slightly chalybeate, hut mofB thoroughly impregnated, with magnesia. There is hardly a trace of sulphur. fSee " Jinrikisha Days in Japan." Chap, x x x v, pages 350*358. 32 WESTWAKU TO THE FAR EAST. No passport is required to visit Arima or Osaka. The former is a mountain village sixteen miles inland where nearly all the bamboo baskets for the foreign trade arc manufactured. Arinia has also medicinal springs and is a fashionable place of resort for the rheumatic and ailing, Hideyoshi having given it vogue cent- uries ago. Its picturesque streets and surroundings, its shops and workrooms easily entertain one for a day. Returning to Kobe, the traveler may take /v/'t?. or walk to the top of Rokusan, and there enjoying a matchless view of mountain, sea and plain, descend the steep road to Sumiyoshi station and take train five miles to Kobe. Osaka is distant twenty miles from Kobe by rail (fare Si.oo ist class; 60 sen 2d class. Return tickets $1.50 ist class; qo sen 2d class). Trains leave hourly for Osaka and at longer intervals for Kioto, which is twenty-seven miles beyond Osaka. The traveller may visit that second city of the Empire, variously called the Venice, the Glasgow and the Chicago of Japan. For- merly it was the military capital. Much of Japanese history has been made within its castle and even foreign writers have made its romances known.* The last acts of the Shogunate were played there, and with the surrender of 1868, the Restoration began. Its 361,694 people, its three hundred bridges, its great temples and workshops are all matters of boastful pride to those prosperous citizens. In one day, the traveller can easily see its more important sights; the Castle, the Tennoji Temple and Pago- da, the Mint, Arsenal, Ilongwanji Temple, the Hakku Butsu, or commercial bazar, the theatre, street, and the large curio shops. The Hakku Butsu is open at night, and condensing all the shops and factories of the town in that one place, one may review industrial Osaka by electric light. The labyrinthine bazar is the delight of the Japanese and the/ love to follow its tortuous mazes without ever an impulse to turn back. There are small ones without number in every theatre region, and each city has a large bazar under government control, where goods marked in plain figures are sold for a small commission. There one may find everything useful and useless, the necessities and the luxuries of life, newest inventions, antiques, curios and much that one may never come across else- where. The great silk shops contain the richest fabrics loom and hand can produce, but trade in them proceeds on leisurely Japanese lines, highly entertaining to one who has time at command, and maddening to the hurried tourist, watch and time table in hand. Jiutei's Hotel, on an island in the river, will lodge and cheer the tourist after European methods. THE SIGHTS OF OSAKA. * " Tli(! Usurper. A Talc o( the Siego of Osaka Castle.' Paris. By Judith Gautier, . The former nearly all llie ;ureil. Arima e of resort for it vo^'iic cent- , its shops and injs' to Kobe, Rokusan, and ea and plain, ;ake train five (fare Si.oo ist iss; QO sivi 2d [iger intervals a. pire, variously Japan. For- se history has rs have made ogunate were e Restoration ges, its great 3ride to those 3re important Die and F^ago- Temple, the r, the theatre, tsu is open at f the town in electric light, lese and the/ npulse to turn every theatre • government e sold for a ^g useful and ;st inventions, e across else- lom and hand rely Japanese ommand, and table in hand, and cheer the WtSTWAKI) TO TIIK I-AK liAST. l.\ 33 PASSPORTS REQUIRED. y Judith Gautier, If he has not a genera! passjjort, including Kioto, obtained through a Tokio legation, the traveller may secure a permit to visit Kioto through his Consul at Kobe. A citi/en of the United States may appl^ directly to the Kobe Kencho himself, but citizens of all other naii')nalitie3 are held amenable to stricter discipline by their consuls, and obliged to proceed through them in all official matters. It is possible to go to Kioto liy a morning train, see several temples, tiffin at Vaami's, visit the Palace and Castle, do a little shopping, and return to ship at night, if one has a good guide and is limited to that one day on shore. The professional guides are registered at the Kobe hotels, Failing to secure one, the living tourist may telegraph Vaanii to send an English-speaking boy to the train at Kioto. He may visit the two Hongwanji Temples, the Dai Butsu and Chioin Temples before reaching the hotel. Yaami's is the only hotel in European style, and is on the hillside overlooking the city. The proprietors were formerly guides, and knowing what the tourist ought to, or wants to see, can quickly put him in the way of it. Of the great temples, the Chioin is a hillside neighbor of Yaami's, and its bronze bell, eighteen feet in length, shakes the whole hotel when it rings. This, with the Kiomidzu, Dai Hutsu, Sanjiusanjendo and the two Hongwanjis, are the great Buddhist shrines. The Higashi Hongwanji is the largest temple in Japan, covering 52,380 sc|uare feet of ground, and rising to a height of 126 feet. When completed, its interior will be the most splendid in the empire. The Gion, the great Shinto shrine, lies at the foot of Yaami's hill. After an entire morning of temples, an afternoon may be agreeably given to the great silk shops where English-speaking clerks are always found. The Palace and the Nijo Castle, permits to visit which must be obtrined through a Tokio legation, and the Kinkakuji (a small suburban palace, now a monastery), will occupy another morning, and curio shops will beguile that afternoon. Every visitor should walk the half mile of Teapot Hill, a street lined for that distance with a double row of china shops. A favorite excursion is to Takao, on the Oigawa, where the traveller takes flatboat and shoots the rapids of that livcr, and resumes jinrikisha at Arasliiyama, a southwestern suburb of Kioto. If not too many, the jinrikishas may be taken in the boat or another boat hired for them. Three or four jr;/ arc asked for each boat, and the passage is made in less than two hours. Luncheon may be taken from the hotel, or the tourist may feast at the Arashiyama tea-house. The traveller may vary his experiences by making the journey to Osaka in jinrikisha, passing through the famous Yamashiro tea district, and resting at Nara, the IN KIOTO. NARA. 34 WESTWARD TO THF. FAR F.AST, ancient capital. It is fifty-nine miles alto^jether, but broken Into two journeys is not fatiguing, as the roads are perfect and the country interesting. For a jinrikisha with two lucn to Nara the traveler pays 52.50 to each coolie, or 55.00 to each coolie for the whole run to Osaka, and twenty-five cents for each day's delay at Nara. The Musashino and Ova are the best tea-houses at Nara. The Dai FJutsu Temple contains a bronze statue of Ihiddha fifty-three and a half feet in height, and at the Kasuga Temple the young Shinto priestesses will perform the sacred dance after the visitor has made a gift of one or more jr;/ to the temple. The tame deer that roam these temple grounds, and even the village streets, will come at call and eat from one's hand. TO NAGASAKI. X. Speed is not a consideration for the voyage between Kobe and Nagasaki, a distance of 389 miles. The way lies in and out among the islands of the Inland Sea, that most picturesque stretch of enclosed ocean; an ideal, poetic region, where even the huge steamship seems to float enchanted, and all the sea and sky and shores are a day-dream. Silently the ship threads the nar- rowest of channels; square-sailed junks float by; towns, villager, castles, temples, forests, cultivated vales and terraced hill >, sharply-cut peaks and low-running mountain chains succeed one another for a whole day. At Shimonoseki the ship passes the last narrow gatewny and goes out to the open ocean for a short stretch, but then its route is close inshore, behind a chain of islands. Fishing-boats dot the water, villages and terraced fields break the shore-line, and the Arched Rock is always pointed out. The ship threads a narrow entrance and p jsses up the long fiord to Nagasaki, a harbor ranking with Sydney and Rio de Janeiro for picturesqueness. Men-of-war are always at their anchorage- ground, and the harbor busy with other craft. The sampans are nearest to gondolas, and their covered cabins declare the frequent rains which make such protection necessary. Mail steamers, having to coal there, always allow their passengers time to explore the town and the temple-crowded hillside. The Bellevue and Smith Hotels are near the Hatoba, and the Club IS on the Bund, at the foot of the hillside set apart for the foreign residents. The O'Suwa is the great temple and is surrounded by a public park. Near it is the Koransha, or general bazar, a smaller edition of Osaka's great industrial aggregation. The porcelain, or Deshima, bazar, is housed in buildings elected by the Dutch in the long ago, when they lived as prisoners on this walled and bridge-guarded island— all for the sake of a trade monopoly. The wares made at Imari, Arita and Hirado, in this same province of Hizen, are brought to Deshima by junk, and t l)roken into rfcct and the \ to Nara the coolie for the day's delay at )uscs at Nara. ue of Huddha isuK'a Temple il dance after o tlio temple, ind even the land. con Kobe and s in anil out t picturesque here even the e sea and sky ads the nar- wns, villager, :rraced hill >, s succeed one gatewry and rt stretch, but id a chain of erraced fields i pointed out. the long fiord lio de Janeiro ir anchorage- sampans are y the frequent ail steamers, gers time to :oba, and the apart for the d by a public nailer edition in buildings i as prisoners the sake of a id Hirado, in by junk, and WKSTU'VKI) TO IMF. F \H KAST. 35 one has choice of many beautiful desi>;ns rarely met in the for- eign markets. The carving and fashioning of tortoise-shell articles occupies many artisans, and one may look into many shops where the busy workers are sawing, cutting, carving and polishing the shell. Mu( h imitation shell is palmed off upon tlu- uninitiated, but one may choose his shell and watch his work begun; and, if he stays in port any time, follow its daily progress. Pierre Loti has so charmingly described many Nagasaki scenes In " Mme. Chrysanthcme," that its readers will e.isily identify his localt'. In Nagasaki begins that pretty little romance "The Viewing of the Cherry Hlos^oms." * Many visitors have been tempted to linger at Nagasaki, visit the Hot Springs a few miles inland, the ([uaint villages along the deeply-indented coast, and, having passports, see Kuma- moto's fine old castle, and Kagoshima, capital of the province of Satsuma. At Nagasaki connection is made with steamers running to V'ladivostock, the future terminus of the trans-Siberian railway; with the ports of Korea, and of .North China. XI. In going from Yokohama to Shanghai, the Canadian Pacific steamers mav circle outside of all the islands of YOKOHAMA TO , \ I. .^ a . » . .i CHINA Jap;in, and after three days at sea anchor at the Woosung Bar; or, when they have stopped at Kobe and threaded the Inland Sea, but a day intervenes when across the turbid waters of the Yellow Sea there shows a low brown line, the outermost edge, the farthest rim of the old, mysterious continent of Asia, the real Cathay. Nearer still, trees show like a mirage on the water; then masts of ships and trails of smoke tell of the unseen river winding behind those trees. Junks with laced brown sails go by, huge eyes painted at the bows, for " If no have eye, how can see go ?" and dirty, fierce-visaged, pig-tailed crews peer from the litter of matting and bamboo poles. Along the banks are high-walled vilU'.ges and the smooth-skinned water buffaloes wallow in the mud below them. The fields are so dotted with round bake-oven graves as to look like a gigantic prairie-dog town, and toilers are everywhere. The arms of the signal station at the mouth of the Yang-tse Kiang wave, and the telegraph carrias the news of the ship's arrival to Shanghai, and launches start to meet it at the Woosung Bar. This is the "Heavenly Barrier," which the Chinese made more effectual than ever, during the French war of 1884, by sinking stone-loaded junks across all but one narrow shallow channel. Twenty years ago there was a railway from Woosung thirteen miles to Shanghai, but the Chinese bought it at a great * "The Viewing of tlie Cherry Blossoms." Now York: G. V. Putnam's Sons. 36 WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. SHANGHAI. advance, tore up the rails and threw them with the locomotives into the river. Approached from the river, this largest foreign settlement of the Far East, the commercial capital of North China presents an imposing appearance. Massive six- story stone buildings front the long Bund, and the compounds of the United States, Japanese and German Consulates are aligned on the Hongkew side, the old American Settlement. Across the creek bridge are the public gardens, the park surrounding the British Consulate and the commercial heart of the city. Further up the water front, the qttais and rttes of the French Settlement, the blue and white signs at each street corner might be corners of Paris itself. The Astor House and the Hotel des Colonies are the leading hotels. The Club is on the Bund in the English settlement, and there is the Country Club a few miles out on the Bubbling Well Road, to which ladies belong as well as men, where every one who is any one meets for summer tennis, the afternoon dances, theatricals and balls of the winter season. The spring and autumn races of the Jockey Club attract crowds from all the outports, and much money changes hands. Shanghai social life is formal, exacting, elaborate and extravagant. The local sights and shows are easily seen in a day. No matter how warm the former friendship may have been, nor how powerful the letters of introduction, never ask a resident of a Chinese port to accompany you to a native city; nor talk to him about the excursion afterwards. The resident may tell you that he has never been in the Chinese city; or that he went once ten or twenty years ago. His compradore or house boy will find a friend, or the ever-ready cousin, to act as guide. Entering by the north gate, at the end of the French Settlement, the visitor may balance himself on one of the passenger wheelbarrows and be trundled around the walls to the west or south gate, and then walk through the city to the north gate. He will see the streets of silk, fur, china and other shops, and such swarms of people in the seven feet wide thoroughfares and side crevices, as support the estimate of 400,000 inhabitants. He must see the Mandarins' Club, or tea garden, the jewellers' guild hall, where there is a continuous auction, and the temple in the midst of a serpentine pond approached by many crooked bridges. Around the pond are out- door jugglers, fortune tellers, story tellers, menders, barbers and dentists plying their tradts, and the din of voices and crowding of the people soon drive him on. In the foreign city there are handsome shops on Honan Road and the Maloo. There is a Chinese theatre in the quarter near the city walls, and gorgeous costuming is the redeeming point in its deafening dramas. Many Chinese prefer to dwell in that corner of the foreign settlement, amenable then to foreign laws and a just taxation, and tried for offenses in the Mixed Court, a :he locomotives ettlementof the of North China Massive six- : compounds of tes are aligned nt. Across the urrounding the ; city. Further ich Settlement, tit be corners of are the leading settlement, and Bubbling Well tiere every one ernoon dances, he spring and Is from all the ghai social life ay. No matter r how powerful a Chinese port him about the >u that he has ten or twenty friend, or the north gate, at alance himself undled around k through the silk, fur, china le seven feet le estimate of Club, or tea a continuous pentine pond pond are out- , barbers and and crowding Honan Road quarter near !ming point in dwell in that foreign laws ixed Court, a WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. 37 POSTAL AR- RANGEMENTS AT FOOCHOW. Chinese magistrate sitting with two members of the consular board. Rich Chinese come to Shanghai from all the back provinces to spend their money. The three drives of Shanghai are out the Bubbling Well Road •nnd back, out the Sickaway Road and back, and down the river to the Point and back. Very interesting is a trip by house-boat through the network of rivers, creeks and canals that covers the country. On the boat one lives as luxuriously as on shore, and Shanghai is an epicure's and sybarite's abode. Notice of the departure of steam launches for Woosung are always posted at the consulates, hotels and club, and informa- tion of such departures may be had from the agents of the Canadian Pacific Company's agents, Messrs. Adamson, Bell & Co., whose offices adjoin the club. ^ There is no governni'^nt post office department in China. Each consulate has a post office of its own in Shanghai and sells its own postage stamps and despatches mails. From Shanghai steamers ascend the Yang-tse for four hundred miles to Hankow, the great tea market, stopping at several cities by the way and passing through a richly cultivated country. At Foochow there is the Chinese arsenal and navy yard, and usually some of its European-built men-of-war to be seen. The river life will interest the waiting voyagers, but shops and specialties are few. The villas of the for- eign residents are hidden in the dense foliage of the hillside. All that hill is covered with graves, and at night the fitful glow of the chair-bearers' lamps among the shadows is strangely weird. At Amoy there is a picturesque, junk-crowded harbor. In the season loads of tea are constantly arriving from Tamsui and other ports on the hardly-explored island of Formosa, whose pirates and savages make its name a reproach along the China coast. From orchards up the river come the choicest pumeloes, that most delicious of citrus fruits, which, transplanted, as the shaddock, in the western hemisphere, greatly deteriorates. Amoy pumeloes and the Amoy grass cloth are both superior spccialticj of the place. XII. A.blue, blue sea, a barren, brown coast, mountains of burnt rock rising sheer from the exquisite sapphire waters, and, slipping through that veritable needle's eye of the Lymoon Pass, the big vhite steamer sweeps into the splendid amphitheatre of Hong Kong harbor, a watery arena thronged with merchantmen and men-of-war of all nations. Steam launches carry the cabin passengers ashore, and sam- pans swarm by hundreds, each boat manned by a shrill-voiced woman, who steers, sculls, cooks, manages her children, drives the bargains, and, with her sister boatwomen, chatters incessantly. AT AMOY. HONG KONG. 38 WESTWARD TO THK FAR EAST. Situated on the steep slope of a mountain, Hong Kong, as it rises from the sea, and terrace by terrace climbs the eighteen hundred feet to the summit of the Peak, is most imposing and beautiful. Again, the white houses seem to be slipping down the bold hillside and spreading out at the water's edge in a frontage of more than three miles. The lines of two viaducts — the Bowen and Kennedy Roads, as those high promenades are named, for two favorite governors of the colony — draw white coronals around the brow of the mountains, and terraced roads band the hillside with long white lines. All the luxuriant green of the slopes is due to man's agency, and since the island was ceded to England, in 1841, afforestation has been the great work and a miracle wrought. A cable road communicates with the Peak, and at night, when the harbor is bright with myriad lights and trails of phosphorescence, and the whole slope glows and twinkles with electricity, gas and oil, the lights of tlie cable cars are fiery beads slipping up and down an invisible cord. The city of Victoria, on the island of Hong Kong, is a British colony all to itself, with a colonial governor and HONG KOMC ' ^^'^^ maintaining a small court and a high social tribunal in its midst. It is also the naval station for the British Asiatic fleet, and the docks, arsenal and foundries in the colony and on the opposite Kowloon shore furnish every munition and requirement for war or peace. A larjre garrison of troops further declare British might, and Hong Kong, the Gibraltar of the East, is an impregnable fortress and a safeguard to all Asia. The length of the island of Hong Kong is eleven miles, ana its width varies from two to four miles. There are less than ten thousand Europeans in the colony, but a Chinese population of 200,000 has settled around them, although really confined to the western end of the lower levels of the town. A jinrikisha ride down the Praya, and the Queen's Road, will convince one that the figures of the Chinese population are put too low, if anything. Over 20,000 Chinese live on the harbor-boats besides. Landing at Pedder's Wharf, the traveller is almost at his hotel door, unless he should arrive during summer, when the hotel at the Peak will be his refuge. One entiance of the Hong Kong Hotel is on Queen's Road, and near it is the Clock Tower from which all distances are measured. The Hong Kong Club, the German Club, and the Luisitano, or Portuguese Club, the Post Office and the Hong Kong and Shanghai bank are all in the im- mediate neighborhood of the Clock Tower. From that point westward there is a continuous arcade of shops, wherein all the arts and industries of South China are exhibited, and one may buy silks, crapes, i\'ory, lacquer, porcelain, carved teakvvood and bamboo wares all the way. The streets swarm with a motley crowd — Jews, Turks, Moham- medans, Europeans, Hindoos, Javanese, Japanese, Malays, Par- sees, Sikhs, Cingalese, Portuguese, half castes, and everywhere WESTWARD TO TIM', PAU EAST. 39 y Kong, as it the eighteen Tiposing and ing down the in a frontage I — the IJowen imed, for two Is around the hillside with )pes is due to land, in 1841, wrought. A jht, when the iphorescence, icity, gas and >ping up and g, is a British governor and a high social naval station ind foundries furnish every re garrison of the Gibraltar rd to all Asia, en miles, ana less than ten population of jnfined to the inrikisha ride e one that the if anything. t at his hotel n the hotel at Hong Kong Tower from ong Club, the lub, the Post all in the im- n that point lerein all the and one may eakvvood and irks, Moham- Malays, Par- 1 everywhere the hard-featured Chinese coolicH, carrying poles, buckets, baskets and sedans, or trotting' clliliiHiiy licforc a more clumsy jinrikisha. An Indian uyii/j, swatlu'd in white, descends the long stairway of aside street; a Sikh policcinitn stands statuesque and imperial at a corner; a profeHsiciiiiil mender, with owlish specta- cles, sits by her baskets of rn^n, diiniing and patching; a barber drops his pole and boxes and bej^qns lo operate upon a customer; rows of coolies sitting against somo grcusy wall submit their heads to one another's friendly attention!*; 11 group of pir tailed young- sters plava "ort of shuttlecocl< with their feet; peddlers split one's ears with their yells; firecrackers Hputter and bang their appeals to joss; and from the harbor coingn the ijoom of naval salutes for some arriving man-oi-war, the admil'ttl, governor or a consul pay- ing ship visits. Such the eonitunt, bewildering panorama of Queen's Road, the Praya and othiT thoroughfares, busiest and most cosmopolitan of highways, where the East and the West touch hands — Asia, Australia, Ocennica, Europe and America meet and mingle unconcernedly. The traveller should see the City Hall and its museum, and take a jinrikisha ride past the biUTftcks to the Race Course in Happy Valley, and visit the Jewish, Parsee, Mohammedan, Anglican and Catholic cemeteries which surround the great oval pleasaunce. Race week is in Febrtiary, and is the gala-time of the Hong Kong year. The grounds about Government House and the Botanical Gardens are the pride of the Rolony, and banyan-shaded roads, clumps of palms, blooming miniosus, and the wealth of strange luxurious growths, give the tropical setting to every scene. There is a handsome cathedral below Government House. To ascend to the higher roads one is carried up those stone or cement staircases of side streets in sedan or hill chairs. There is a regular tariff of fares, but there is always a diHeiission at settlement. No one should attempt to underpay iv coolie. To pay the exact fare generally rouses protest, and to underpay them l^rings bedlam about one's ears. Jinrikishas are supposed to be fifteen cents an hour, or fifty cents a day. Chairs cost ten cents an hour for each bearer, or twenty cents an lioiir altogether. The completion of the cable road *'- the peal< has fortunately done away with much of the chair-riding. The universal pigeon-English is understood, but a small vocabulary of Chinese word»^ s^ul'liees for sedan conversation, as: WAYS OF LOCOMOTION. Be (|uick, luirry up. Be careful, look oiit^ Come here. Don't do that, Stop, Wait a little. That will do, SiY .utnt. I. ice itc shii. Mho fso, Man man, ToHjiHc yut sun. Tso tuck lok. 40 WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. More often the bearers rap the poles for one to sit still and keep the balance evenly, or to sit more towards one side or the olhcr. The passenger raps the poles when he wishes to stop, and riipH the right or the left pole as he may v. ish to be set down at OIK* or the other side of the street. One (|iiickly picks up a few words of pigeon-English, and finds Wrf.v/w for all right, go ahead, agreed, never mind, etc., a most useful word. Topside for up-stairs; pidgin for business, affairs, concerns; chop chop for right away quickly; chow-chow, ox simply chino, for food; piccce for thing or article; side for place, region, home, country, etc.; catch for fetch, carry, get, bring and buy, are the words most commonly used in one's hearing, and are so <|ui(;kly adopted in speech that at first one cannot utter a correct English phrase, owing to the corrupting spell of " pidgin." ALTIRNATI ROUTIt. IN SIOUL. XIII. The zealous traveller who would see all of China and a little of Korea may diverge from the route of the Canadian Pacific steamers either at Yokohama or Shanghai. From either place are lines of steamers running to Chctnulpo, the chief open port of Korea, and to the ports of North China on the Gulf of Pechele. 'I'aking a Nippon Yusen Kaisha steamer he may visit Fusan iuul Gensan on the east coast of Korea, and stopping at Chemulpo, go by horse, sedan or boat on the river Han, twenty-six miles in- land, to the capital, Seoul.* There is a Japanese hotel in foreign style =-the Dai Butsu— at Chemulpo. The proprietor will arrange for the journey and confide the tourist to the care of the Japanese tea-house in Seoul. The sights of Seoul, other than its picturesque street life, are few and far between. One looks at the eight gateways in the city wall— which are the gates and walls of Peking in miniature — at the palace gates, the marble pagoda and the Bell Tower in the city. Without the walls there is the boulder image of Buddha to the northwest ; the temple and tomb of Queen Chung at the southwest ; the temple to the Chinese God of War in the same suburb ; and the village of Buddhist priests northeast of the city. Permission may sometimes be obtained from the Foreign Office to visit the abandoned palace, whose neglected buildings and pleasure gromds give an idea of the occupied palace. At rare intervals the King passes through the streets of the city, and the procession accompanying him is not. like anytliing else to be seen in this century — a pageant un- changed in details since the middle ages. The streets are filthy, the houses mean and wretched, the people Indolent, poor and unambitious ; a crushed and spiritless race, who for centuries paid tribute to China and Japan to be let alone. • Sooul, proiiimnccd Soivl. ; to sit still and 5ne side or the les to stop, and be set down at iglish, and finds nd, etc., a most lusincss, affairs, choiu, or simply )r place, region, ig and buy, are ig, and are so ; utter a correct pidgin." a and a little of jf the Canadian aa or Shanghai. Tiers running to ; ports of North [lay visit Fusan g at Chemulpo, ty-six miles in- lotel in foreign or will arrange ■ the Japanese street life, are at the eight are the gates OS, the marble he walls there ; the temple temple to the le village of ^ay sometimes loned palace, |ve an idea of isses through [nying him is pageant un- rretched, the pd spiritless jpan to be let WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. 41 CHEFOO. PEKING. From Chemulpo the steamers next go to Chefoo, the watering- place and summer resort *'or the foreign resi- dents in China, and the chief port of the rich province of Shantung. From the Taku forts at the mouth of the Peiho River, Tien Tsin is distant twenty-five miles in air line, but by the t«rtuous course of the muddy river it is sixty miles. The Globe and the Astor Hotels are on the river bank at Tien Tsin. After seeing the interesting native city, the walls of the Viceroy's yaamen and the few sights of Tien Tsin, the trip to Peking may be undertaken. A Chinese guide or boy can be engaged at either hotel who will make all the arrangements for the trip, engage the boats, buy the provisions, cook an^ serve them, lead one about Peking, to the Great Wall and the Ming Tombs. He is paid fifty cents a day, and no other charges or allowances are made, except as a present at the end of his service. Bedding for use on the boat and in the trip to the Great Wall may be rented of the hotel at Tien T&i.\ A house-boat, with its crew of oarsmen and trackers, can be had for eight or ten dollars (Mexican), and by paying fifty cents apiece extra trackers may be had who will walk all night and get the boat up the ninety miles of river to Tungchow in forty-eight hours. In returning, the boat trip has been made in twenty hours, but thirty hours is the average time. On horseback the actual travelling time is less, bn.t one must then pass a night at a Chinese inn, which is not alvwys de- sirable. From Tungchow to Peking there are thirteen miles which the tourist passes over in the springless Peking cart, on horse, or in sedan chair. At Peking there is the excellent Hotel de Peking, kept in foreign style, where every comfort is secured, and every infor- mation and assistance given the visitor. The foreign legations are all in the one quarter in the Tartar City, within the second wall of the city, and the Liu li Chang, the booksellers' street, where the silk and curio, and the shops generally attractive to tourists are centered, is near the gate. One may use bank-notes in Peking, and drafts are cashed at the hotel, but otherwise he pays in cash, the round brass coins with a hole in the middle, of which goo make one Mexican dollar. Prices are also quoted to him in taels and sycees, the latter lumps of silver whose value is determined by weight at each transaction. The to'/ averages in value at $1.35 Mexican. At several places in the neighborhood of the legations, one may, by giving the guards a couple of hundred cash, mount the wall, walk there undisturbed, and get a view of the city's different quarters. Within the first or outer wall, thirty miles in circumference, is the Chinese City, within the next circle is the Tartar City, then the Imperial City and the Purple Forbidden City, where the yellow-tiled palace roofs of the Emperor's habitation show above the trees of the park. ON THE WALLS. 42 WESTWARD TO THIC FAR KAST. THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA. In Pckins streets Chinese, Mancluis, Monj^ols f.iiti the desert, Thibetans, Koreans and every people of Asia jostle together; camel trains, carts, mule litters, sedans and wheelbarrows crowd the way, and the din and the picturesqueness confuse and bewilder one. The sights of Peking are lessening in number each year be- cause ^f the authorities closing them to foreigners. The Sum- mer Palace, without the walls, destroyed by the French in 1861, is now being rebuilt, and is closed to visitors. The Temple of Heaven, where the Emperor annually worships, was burned a year since, but its ruins and the other temples within its park are in- teresting. The old observatory on the walls, the Mohammedan mosque, the Catholic cathedral and college, the foreign mission establishments and the Lamasery are other places to be visited. There are 1,500 priests at the Lamasery, and one must not only bribe largely to gain admittance, but usually pay to get out. The tourist should by no chance go out alone or without his Chinese boy. It is a three days' trip to visit the Great Wall of China, return- ing by way of the tombs of the Ming emperors. The trip is made in mule litters, which are rented at the rate of one and a half Mexican dollars a day. Outside of Peking all payments are made in cash. At the inns only the bare room is supplied, the traveller providing his own bedding and food. The Chinese pay 150 cash for the night's lodging, the foreigner usually pays 500 cash, including tips. A hard and fast bargain must be made before entering the inn, and the landlord will relent before the obdurate traveller can go many steps away. At Kalgan and at Cha Tao, on the other side of the Great Wall, are good inns. A two-mule cart for the servant and luggage is provided for at the rate of two Mexican dollars for each day. The splendid tombs of the Ming emperors are visited on the return from the Great Wall, and also the temples among the hills where the foreign legations are housed in midsummer. The average cost of the trip from Tien Tsin to Peking and return, including the boats, carts, litters and one week's stay at the Hotel de Peking, is put at one hundred Mexican dollars for each person. The trip to Peking affords more of novelty, strangeness and incident than any other on the coast, and no one who can command the two or three weeks' time should miss taking it. May and October, the latter especially, are the best months, as the summers are intensely hot and dry, the winters cold, and there is a rainy season in spring, when the streets arc in their worst condition. XIV. From Hong Kong the sea ways diverge like the spokes of a wheel to all the ends of the earth, and the trav- eller may take ship to any country of the globe. Between him and India lie the Straits Settlements, Siam and Ccj'lon. Java, with its wonders of nature, the ruins of TOURS FROM HONG KONG. VVIiSTWARU TO TIIK FAR EAST. 43 n the desert, jjcther; camel rowel the way, vikler one. each year be- i. The Sum- ench in 1861, he Temple of burned a year s park are in- ^lohammedan reign mission to be visited, must not only jet out. The 5 Chinese boy. lihina, return- ng emperors, ch are rented can dollars a nts are made , the traveller lese pay 150 •ays 500 cas/t, made before the obdurate at Cha Tao, A two-mule lie rate of two ; of the Ming /all, and also legations are 3 Peking and veek's stay at an dollars for of novelty, ;t, and no one should miss are the best % the winters le streets are e spokes of a and the trav- of the globe, i Settlements, , the ruins of MACAO. CANTON. the greatest temples in the world, the monuments and relics of a past civilization, attracts more travellers and archieologists each winter. Australia and New Zealand are on another great route of travel, and wintering there, the tourist may at the close of the hurricane season— February and March -make a loop through that lazy, lovely, tropical realm, the South Sea, visit Samoa and Fiji, and from Levuka take ship back to Hong Kong. Steamers run frequently to the Philippines, and beside the great tobacco plantations of the islands and the factories, there is to be seen every evening on the Maidan, at Manilla, a parade of carriages and a show of wealth and luxurious living equal to that of any European capital. In two hours he may go from Hong Kong to Macao, a three- century-old Portuguese town on the mainland, see its ancient forts, the gardens and grotto where Camoens wrote his poems; watch the white and Chinese gamblers in this Monte Carlo of the Far East view, the loading of opium cargoes; lest at an excellent hotel, and enjoy the sea baths. One day is quite enough for the ordinary traveller to give to Canton sights and sounds. The night boat from Hong Kong will carry him the ninety miles up the Pearl River to that city of three millions of inhabitants, and by daylight the din of that many voices will reach his ears like the roar of an angry sea. There is no hotel, and unless he has been invited to the home of one of the foreign residents, the traveller lives on the steamer, changing from night boat to day boat, as they come and go. The dean of the corps of professional guides or a less distin- guished cicerone will present his card upon the arrival of the steamer, and in single file the procession of sedan chairs follows such a leader through the streets, across the city and over an established route which gives a glimpse of every quarter of Canton. A bridge with closed gates and guards leads to the Shamcen, an Arcadian island where the small colony of foreign residents dwell. The Cantonese are not v/ell disposed towards foreigners, and the visitor is warned not to resent any unpleasant remarks or gestures. It: turn one visits the Temple of Five Hundred Genii; the Water Clock in the temple on the walls; the Temple of Horrors, with a courtyard full of fortune tellers and beggars; the Execu- tion Ground, Examination Hall, and the five-story pagoda on the city walls, where the guide will find chairs and table, and set forth the luncheon brought from the steamer. Returning across the city, one visits the Flowery Pagoda, the ruin of a once splendid marble structure; the old English Yaamen, where the first for- eign legation was housed in 1842; the Temple of the Five Genii, the Magistrates Court, the City Prison, and the Green Tea Mer- chants' Guild Hall, and returns to the boat in time for tea, and a 44 WESTWARD TO TIIK KAK KAST. ON THE RIVER. walk through the quiet, banyan shaded avenues and along the Bund of the Shameen. The water life of Canton, with the thousands of boats, upon which many thousands arc born, live, marry and die, a separate class and clan from the landsmen, is always in sight and sound. The river banks are fringed deeply with these floating homes, and the network of creeks throughout the city holds them as well. Between the temples one sees the panorama of the open shops, streets of silk and jade and jewelers' shops; weavers' dens and gold-beaters' caves; shoe shops, cabinet shops, meat and cook shops on either side. Unknown cookery simmers, sputters and scents the air. Dried ducks hang by half-yard-long necks, and a queer flat bit of dried meat declares itself by the long thin tail curled like a grape tendril, to be the rat. The rat is in the market everywhere, alive in cages, fresh or dried on meat-shop counters, and dried ones are often bought as souvenirs of a day in Canton and proof of the often denied rat story. Theatres are many, shops of theatrical wardrobes are endless in one quarter, dealers in old costumes abound, and there are pawn shops and curio shops without end. The law allows no street to be less than seven feet in width, and some do not exceed it. Down these narrow lanes, with matted awn- ings overhead, between swinging black, gold and vermillion sign- boards, the people swarm. Two chairs can barely pass. To turn some sharp corners, the poles are run far into the shops, and when a mandarin's chair or mounted escort appears, one is hustled into an open shop-front, and is not safe then from the bumping and brushing of the train. It is a most bewildering, dazing, fatiguing day. While the boat shps down the river, past the French cathedral and the busy Whampoa anchorage, out between quiet and level fields, one can hardly remember all the sights. But he dreams of this city of Oriental riches and barbaric splendor, the city of the greatest wealth and the direst poverty, and he sees again the narrow, seething thoroughfares, the blaze of gold and vermillion, the glitter and glow of showy interiors, where if the Queen of Sheba did not live, she certainly went a-shopping. and along the of boats, upon live, marry and the landsmen, fringed deeply eks throughout a of the open ; weavers' dens meat and cook s, sputters and \g necks, and a e long thin tail is in the market -shop counters, L day in Canton ire many, shops r, dealers in old id curio shops et in width, and ith matted awn- v^ermillion sign- I pass. To turn hops, and when is hustled into bumping and izing, fatiguing the French setween quiet ghts. But he splendor, the and he sees of gold and where if the hopping. st ;e JAPANESE WORDS AND PHRASES. A few words and useful phrases in common Japanese speech may l)e easily learned and will assist the tourist in dealing with the few shopkeepers, servants and coolies who do not understand a little English. A full command of JapancHC, with a fluency in the polite forms rf the court language, re(|uires many years to acquire; but with even a limited vocabulary the stranger has a greater range and independence. All vowels have the continental soimkIm, A is pronounced like a in father, E is pronounced like i' in prey or ii in fate. / is pronounced like t in macliint' or the I'.nglish r. O is pronounced like o in no, U is pronounced like oo in moon. A/ has the sound of / in isle, A U has the sound of ow in liow. SH has the sound of sh in shall, /// is pronounced very nearly like he in shcnf, CH is pronounced soft, as in chance, chicken, G has the sound of ng, as Nagasaki (Nangasaki). The consonants are pronounced as in iMiglish. Each syllable is evenly accented, and only the u is sometimes eHded, as Satsuma (Sats'ma), Da Hutsu (Da Hoots), etc. The following conjugations, etc., are mostly taken from the small handbook of words and phrases first issued by Farsari & Co., Yokohama, but freely pirated since; A short declination of the auxiliary verbs sum, to do, and arimas, to be, is here given, as many verbs can be formed from nouns in conjunctions with these as suffixes, and as all verbs can be declined by suffixing one of the auxiliaries; e. g.. Fatigue, kutahirc ; I am fatigued, kutabiremashta ; h'b'u, to cut; kirimashta, did cut; kiriniasho, will cut. To 'Do — Sttru. I do, sum. I did, shta. If I do, sJitarcba. I will do, sho. I shall do, sum dc am. Doing, shte. I do not, sJiinai. I did not do, shi-uakatta. 1 will not do, Sana/. Not doing, s^dc; scdz. To Ha VI',; To Hlc —Arimas. I have; 1 am, arimas. I have hud; I \\A%,aritnasltta, If I have, ari mash tarda. I will have, arimasho. 1 shall have, am dc ar7>. Having; being, aru. I have not; I am not, arimasen. I did not have; I have not been, arimascnanda. I will not have; I will not be, arimasmai. Not having; not being, arti de. Will you have? will you hcl ari- maska. Have you liad? arimashtaka. 46 WESTWARD TO THF. FAU EAST. There it 2 no inflections to clistinj,niish person or number in Japanese v Cibs, therefore sunt will stand for " I do," as well as for " you do " or ' he does." Arimas is the compound word of ari and masit. Art is the root of (in/, to l)c; and wtisu is used with aru as a polite suffix. The word ^t^vciinnias so frc(|uently heard is only the more polite form of tiriifias. NOUNS, SENTENCES, ETC. In Japanese NoUNS there are no inflections to distinguish gender, number and ease, but the words otoko, o or osu, male, and oniut, nic or inexii, female, are used to distinguish gender; as, otoko no lima, horse; onna no iima, mare; tis/ii, bull; me ushi, cow. Osu and mean are used when the noun is not mentioned, but understood. Words with a no following arc adjectives, with a ni following are advekhs. The VKun comes at the end of the sentence and after the object governed l)y it; as, Inn luo (the dog) kaimashita (I bought), I bought the dog. To shimeru, shut the door. NUMBERS. One, ichi. Two, «/. Three, sun. Four, shi. Five, go. Six, roku. Seven, shchi. Eight, fiachi. Nin ?, ku. T^n.jiu. Eleven, y/« u/ii. Twelve, Jiu ni. Thirteen, /«'« sun (and so on to nineteen). Twenty, nijiu. Twenty-one, nijiu ichi. Once, ichi do. Twice, 7ti do. Three times, san do. Four times, yo tahi. Five times, go tab:. Six times, roku tubi. Thirty, san jiu. Forty, shi jiu (and so 0:1 to ninety). Hundred, hyaku. One hundred, ippiaku. Two hundred, ni hyaku. Thousand, sen. One thousand, issen. Two thousand, ni sen. Ten thousand, man. Hundred thousand,y/« man. Million, hyaku man. Ten million, sen man. Thirty-eight million, San-sen happyaku man. Billion, cho. Seven times, shchi tabi. Eight times, hachi tabi. Nine times, ku tabi. Ten i\\nQs,jittabi. Double, bai or nibai. Triple, sam bai. January, sho gatsu. February, ni gatsu. March, san gatsu. April, shi gatsu. May, go gatsu. June, roku gatsu. MONTHS. July, shchi gatsu. August, hachi gatsu, September, ku gatsu. October, jiu gatsu. November, jiu ichi gatsu. December, y?« ni gatsu. or number in " ;is well as for //. ///•/ is tlie a polite suffix, le more polite to distinguish flsu, male, and ider; as, otoko tishi, cow. ncntioned, but a ni following fter the object (I bought), I md so ou to iaku. hyaku. n. sen. n. \,jiii man, ft. an. on, San-sen I. tabi. tabi. i. xi. ne. gatsu. atsu. WESTWARD TO TUK KAH KAST. 47 1st, tsuitachi. 2i\,futska. 3cl, mikka. 4tl>, yokka. 5th, itska. 6th, mttikii. 7th, nanoka. '^\\\,yoka. (;th, kokouoka. loth, toka. tith, Jt'i/ ichi nicht. 1 2th, jiu ni nichi. I3th,y/// san nichi. I ^th, jilt yokka. 1 5th, jiu go nichi. \6ih,jii( rokii nichi. DAYS OF THE MONTH. I7th,y/// shchi nichi. ;8lh,//'w hachi nichi. U)\\\, jiu kit nichi. 20th, htitska. 2 1 St, nijiii ichi nichi, 22(1, /////// ni nichi. 23(1, ///'//■// Still nichi. 2\\.\\, ni jiu yokka. 25th, nijiii go nichi. 26th, nijiu roku nichi. 27th, ni jilt shchi nichi. 28th, nijiu hachi nichi. 29th, nijiu ku nichi. 3o'.h, san jiu nichi or inisoka. 3 1 it, san jiu ichi nichi. DAYS OF THE WEEK. Sunday, nichi yobi. Monday, gatsu or geisu yobi. Tuesday, ka yobi. Wednesday, suiyobi; nakadon. Tliursday, inoku yobi. Friday, kin yobi. Saturday, do yobi ; maidon. HOURS. Hours are counted by prefixing the Chinese numerals to the Chinese word ji—" time," " hour "—thus: ichi-ji, one o'clock. ni-ji, two o'clock. san-ji jip-pun, ten minutes past three. yo-jijiu-jio-fun, fifteen minutes past four. jiu-ji han, half past ten. jiu-ni-ji jiu-go-fun mae, fifteen minutes to twelve. Spring, haru. Summer, natsu. THE SEASONS. Autumn, aki. Winter, ///K«. DIVISIONS OF TIME. Day, hi. Morning, asa. Noon, him ; shogo. Evening, J7/ ,■ ban. Night, >'tfn<. W\f^vi\^\., yonaka. To-day, konnicht. To-morrow, myonichi. The day after to-morrow, asatte; myogonichi. Yesterday, sakujitsu. The day before yesterday, ototoi : issakiijitsu. An hour, ichijikan. Half an hour, hanjikan. A quarter of an hour, jugofun. Week, shtt. Month, tsuki. One month, hito-tstiki. Heavens, ten. Sky, sora. Sun, taiyo ; tenia sama. THE HEAVENS. Moon, tski. Star, hoshi. t« WKSTWARD TO TIIK KAK KAST. Passport, ryokomeujo. Ticket, Ai/>/>i4. Railway station, sulfishion, I'ost odici', yi(biuh\ol:ii. lull, lioti'l, viti/oyii. Cairi.i.^c, /nis/iit. Coailiman, ,i;yos/iu hetto. Hath, ///;•(',• yii. lU'd, Hiuioko. Room, luya. Steamsliip, func. Steainsiiii) (siile-whccl), fune jinrikisfia. Hoatman, sendo. I'Icase return my passport, Hiitiji) kacslii nasui. Railway train, kis/ia ; Jokis/in. Railway i,irc,k/s//. Ticket, 2d class, chittto. Ticket, 3d class, kato. Return ticket, ofuku. IRAVLLMNG. What lime is it? nan doki dfs? I wish til ;;<) to (name place), ^ ikitai, Uriti^f me some water, please, niidzH wo niotte ok tire. Who is there? dare da? Choosi- another word, please, koka n« kotolui o tskai misai. Is your m.'ister at home? danna S(in inki di' i;o::arinitiska/ What house is that? nan no if di'ska ? Keep this till I come back, kaeru niiidf korr 700 adzukattf ku- liasai. I'ost this letter, kono tixantai ii'o yubin ni yatte kitdasai. Are there any letters for me? li\i;ami ariniaska ? A^end your m<'ssenger to me, aiiiiita no tskai wo yatte kit- ttasai. I wish to eat, I am hunj,'ry, ta- lutai. Please make me a tire, /// ivo txkrrii. Where arc you poinp? do chira a nas/iainias-ka / About how many miles? nan ri hodo ? IN THE JINRIKISHA. Please tell me the road, michi wo os/iiftt' kiidasai. Please j;et me a jinrikisha, ktt- nana wo yobe kitdasai. How much? ikiira? How much for one hour? ichiji kan ikiira? Hurry up, {,^0 faster, hayakit. Go slowly, soro or shizitka ni shite. Stop, mate. Stop a little, sukoshi mate. Straijrht ahead, massui^u. Rijjht, mii^i. Left, liidari. IN THE SHOP. Take care, look out, abonayo. Toj^ether, side by side, issho ni. Enoujjh, all right, uros/ii. Here and there, achi kochi. This way, in this one, here, ko- chira. That way, in that one, there, achira. Where are you going? doko Miarti ? What? nani? When? itsii? Pefore, saki. Behind, nshiro. Have you? arimaska? Have, I, arimas. Have not, I, arimascu. Know or understand, I, waka- rimasii. Know or understand, I do not, ivakarimascn or shirimascn. Can or will do, I, dekimas. Cannot or will not do, I, deki- mascn. It is im[)ossiblc, dekinai. Gold, kin. Silver, gin. Paper money, satsu. Old,////// New, atiU Cheap, iw Cheap, \t Dear, too til kit/ Crape, 1 /i Cr.ipe (co Hrocade ( iowii (<: Coat, /uito Sash, obi. Thick, atf Thin, iisi/. Wide, kit Narrow, s. Lon.i^, // rd, please, ' A/v// uits,ii. ome? ii,iniia K,in'>H(isk,i ? t ? n,in no ie \Y,\cV,k,ierit izukatte kit- 'HO ti\i!^(imai fti' kiu/iixai. ers for me? fer to inc, wo yatte kii- hunfjry, t,i- tire, /// 1V0 ig? do chira lies? «a:« ri , abonayo. de, m/f(? lit. roshi. i kochi. le, here, ko- one, there, ing? doko \'imas. tlo, I, f/if^'/- inat. WKSTWAKI) T<» IHI. lAK KAST. IN nil: sii()P-C()NTiNti:i>. 49 ()Ul,///n//. Ncv,, utiirns/it'i. C\\c:\p, Vtisui. (heap, very, /iikn.tti/t yd.iu/. Dear, too imidi, fiikti/, tiin,in' /(//•(//, or tiikiisiui Itikiii. ('raj»e, chitiiiitii. Clrapo (cotton), , liijiiiii. Hrocaile, nisJiiki. Ciowii (I'lothin;^). kimono. Coal, /iiiori. Sash, o/ii. 'i'liick, ,ifsiii. riiin, Usui, Wide, /liroi. Narrow , sr/n,ii. L()n,ii, luta^di. Short, niijikiti. « Yard (measure), s/niki/. (Two and one-half siuikii e(|ual one Knj;iisii yard.) Kxchanj;c, To, tori karni. Black, ktoi. lUue, (I 7i'", sora-iro. IMue, dark, aMi,''/ />«>, kon. IJlue lit^ht, ////.J// asitx^i. Ceen, rerJ/'.- midori ; nuvii^i. I'ink, iiioiiio i.-'K Pu ,-ie, miiras,iki. Red, /'.'". Small, ,/iis,ii. Scissors, hiimmi. Address it to, shokiii to iiii iit,- '!i'o kiikiiiitsii', I will take this also, ko/r mo moi liiniasho. l..et me see something; heller, moto a mono ivo o niisr n,iMii. Mriiij; n\e samples of all son h.ive, iiniitaki' no mono mi/ton inottc kHr' knditstii. I shall buy this, korc wo kniniiis. Let me know when it is ready, slilakn slitarc/m sliinisc na- s,ii. Please make it cheaper, motto omakr iuis,ii. I w.int it o a lighter color, moto Usui iro g(i /los/iii. ("live me onea j^niod deal darker, ;//('/(' kroi iro kiiddsiii. What is this m.ide of? kor,- -aui nun d(- dikitr orinuis? I low n\any? ikntsu .■' Have you any more? motto am ka^ Send this packaj^e to , kono tsutsumi (name of place) ,• yattc okuir. I would like to sec it, please, misttr (>kuri\ Less, sukuniii. The same t]iini,s another like this, onaji koto. Pad, wanti. Pretty, kirci. I will come attain, mutii kimasu. r.EVi:RAGES, EATABLES, ETC. Afjjile, rini^o. Beef, us/ti. Beer, lu'r. Boil, To', niru. liread, /(/;/. Broil, 'Vo,yaki'nt. Butter, gyuraku (usually Initta). Cabbage, botan na ; kabiji. Cakes, kas/ii. Carrot, nitijin. Cherry, sakura no mi. Chicken, niwatori. Clams, hamaguri. Claret, budo sake. Cotllisli, tara. Coffee, kohi. Crab, /,////. Crayfish, iic cbi. Cucumlier, kyuri. Eels, U7iagi. Ixi,',t(s, tamago. Eggs, soft boiled, tamago no hanjiku. Eggs, hard boiled, tamago no ninnki. Figs, ichijiku. 50 WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. BEVERAGES, EATABLES, ETC. -Continued. Fish, sakana. Flour, udon no ko. Food, tabemono. Fowl, tori. Fruits, kudamono ; niiztigashi. Grapes, htido. Goose, gacho. Haic, usagi. Herring, nishin. Lamb, ko hitstiji no niku. Lemon, yuzu. Mackerel, saba. Meat, niKt:. Melon, uri. Musk melon, makuwa uri. Watermelon, suika. !^ iilk, ushi no chichi. Mullet, bora. Mustard, karashi. Mutton, hitsiiji no niku. Oil, abura. Omelet, tamago yaki. Orange, mikan. Oysters, kaki. Pea, endo mavie. Peach, momo. Pea -, nashi. Pepper, kosho. Phr:isant, kiji, Pici>ltb, tskcmo'iio. Pigeon, hato. Plum, ume. Pork, buta. Potato, \x'\^,jag(i into. Potato, sweet, satstnna into. Quail, udzura. Rabbit, usagi. Rice, meshi ; gozen. Roast, To, yaku. Salad, chisa. Salmon, shake. Salt, shiivo. Sardines, iwaski. Shrimps, j/f?^'// ebi. Snipe, shigi. Soup, tsuyu ; o sui mono. Spinach, horenso. Soy, shoyu. Strawberries, ichigo. Sugar, sato. Tea, o'cha. . Tomato, aka nasu. Trout, yamame. Turkey, shichimcncho. Turnip, kabu. Vegetables, yasai. Vinegar, su. Water, niidzu. Water, drinking, nomi midzu. Water, hoi, yn. Whitebait, shirago. Wine, budoshu. Wine of the country, sake, (For beer, brandy, whisky, etc., the word "sair" is added to the English name.) FEATURES OF A COUNTRY. Bay, iri unii. Beach, hama ; wni-bata. Bridge, hashi ; bashi. Cape, niisaki. Capital, miyako. Cascade, taki. Cave, horu ana. City, mac hi ; tokai. East, higashi. Forest, hayashi ; niori. Gulf, iri unii. Hill, koyama. Harbour, ivichi. Island, shin/a ; jima. Lake, kosiii ; ike, Moun\.a\n, yaina. North, kita. Peninsula, eda shima, "^wiix, kawa ; gawa. Sea, umi. South, niinami. S[)ring, izumi ■ loaki midzu. Street, mad.' ; tori. Tide, shiwo. Town, machi. Valley, tani. Village, mura. West, nishi. Officer, yakunin. Teacher, scnsei. OCCUPATIONS. Doctor, isha. Surgeon, j!,v/i'rt isha. arc Gokuro .linah, Hoy, hoi Bund, s Bungah Chit, no Comf)ou phu Curios, war Compru whc are lUED. \mo. ma into. mono. ■v?. xcho. nomi midsu. 0. try, sake. .whisky, etc., the d to the English tma. wa. laki midztt. ri. la. WESTWARD TO THE FAR EAST. 51 OCCUPATIONS -Continued Captain, scncho. Mate, 7(ntc)islii. Engineer, kikansJii. Sailor, suifii. Student, shosci. Translator, lionyaktisha. Interpreter, tsiibcii. Farmer, hyakusho. Manufacturer, scizonin. Artist, ckaki. Photographer, s/iash/'/is/ii. Dealer in foreign articles, to- butsnya. Book-seller, honya. Porcelain merchant, .fMw/rv/ry'rt. Lacquer merchant, s/iikkiyu. Cook, ryorinin. House boy, kodzukai. Coolie, iiinsoku. Jinrikisha man, jinriki-hiki. GENERAL. I am cold, samtii ^s;ozaimas. I will come again, mata viai- rinnis. As soon as possible, narittake kayaku. What is your name ? namac wa nan to moshimas? (polite form); na iva nan da? (com- mon form). Will you come and have a drink? kite ippai yarima- scn ka ? Foreign doctor, seiyo no isha. I beg pardon, _!^07nnt nasai. Yes, $aiyo ; lici. No, iye. Come here, please, oide nasai. Thank you, arigato. Good-bye, sayonaro. Good-day, kon nic/ii laa. Good-evening, kon ban iva. Good-morning, oliayo. Soon, right away, tadaimo. P'ease, dozo. What is your address? anata no tokoro wa doko des ka ? PHRASES USED BY NATIVES. all Trasshaimashi, welcome. He ! kashkomarimashta right. Omachidosama, sorry to keep you waiting. Gokigen yo gozainias, hope yoi: are well. Gokuro saina, many thanks for your kind trouble. Nam hodo, I see, I see. Yiikkiiri, please make yourself at home. Ippiikit o agari nasai, please take a smoke. Amah, nurse. ]ioy, house servant. Bund, street facing the sea. Btingaloiv, a ;»ne-story house. CJiit, note, letter promise to i)ay Compound, enclosure, dwelling place. Curios, old bronzes, lac([ucr- warr, etc. Comprudore, agent through whom purchases or sales are made. Oagari nasai or oagan nasai, please come in; also used when goods or drink are offered — please partake. Oainiku sama, we have none (of the article required). Oitonia itashimasJto, I will now take my leave. Yoku nashaimasta, glad you have come. Voku yoroshiku dozo, please give my regards to. Gomcn nasai, beg your pardon. Doshtu? what is the matter? Kckko, very good; splendid. LOCAL ENGLISH. Ciodown, warehouse. Grijjin, a new arrival in the East; also, a pony racing for the first time. Hatoba, jetty, landing. Hong, place of business. Pyjamas, a loose suit worn at night. Sampan, a native boat. Shroff, silver expert. Tiffin, luncheon. < < < i) 8 a be » O H > •/3 O OOOO Ss? ^00 e» > OllHffl Sin ^00 GO'S" don Sc5 ■*C<5 >> in o i-< m 5ji< '.3 w ' -- e cj t^ !;; o M S;<3P>O05j3 .-I •3! •• «- "2 O0WJ3 5O -!>tM^ .1 s 0)1, is ?S s rt 56 sr ^ 1- » ^ ^ .Sis rs s >) « S C8 §■ ^ (0 « GO o < b a ffl < of CO IM O !M CD (0 Q 8t n ^ (D lO W rH © CO « t- * (M Oil CO eg S 10 CO ^ t- CO^ -^ o ^ a£ S O (H OD « 3 (0 Q i. * >9. «?P >J< O CO c S (N O O 10 ^ (N lO 00 f-i CO >S I Q ^ t- t- * 00 ^ CD CD IM CO O CO c o "The Mik " Japan -1 "The Ind "jAPAN-r by "Japanese " PiCTORIA "Japanese ." Artistic "An Artis "Japan— Ii "Unbeatei "Young J/ "Japan-T "The Soui "Noto; Ai "Japonica " Mme. Ch "Japonaisi "Japanese "Japanese " Jinrikisi ■ by^ "THIMiS J "A Flyinc; \ "Corea— ": "Choson- "The Mie "Travels CD CD o m o o CO lO op 00 00 >0 « t- ^ W «-t t- ■ M O O Bp ■s +^ -a WW . S a B o O o9 O 3^ ■II a m t- :« j 00 10 o- Tit CD CO ^ t- o o o o rH eg 't 00 rt CO t- t- ^ CD CD 0) O CO 10 BOOKS OF REFERENCE eN JAPAN AND CHINA. "The Mikado's Empire "-= by W. li, QHffls, New York-Harper & Brothers. "Japan— Travels ani> KHSitAUiilBs" I "The Industrial Ahts (II' J Ai'AN " ' by /. y. A'ehh New York-A. C. Armstrong & Son. "Japan— Its Aut, Arcihtuctukk ANit Art Manih-acturrs"— by Dr. Christopher Dresner, [.ondun— LoiiKmans, Green & Co. "Japanese Homes"— by Prof, p., S, Morse, New York— Harper & Brothers. " Pictorial Arts op Japan "-= by Dr, W, Andermi, London. "Japanese Art and Artists "-= by M, B, Htihh, London=Flno Arts Society. ."Artistic Japan"— by S. Dine, Fartd and London^Saitipson, Marston & Lowe, "An Artist's Letters vhom Japan "^l)y/o//« La Fargc. A Series of l^apors In The Century Magazine, 1890. "Japan— Its History, Traihtions and Kulioion"- by Sir Bdwarii Neltt, London— John Murray. "Unbeaten Tracks in Japan "= by Miss Isnhellii lilrtf, London— John Murray. " Young Japan "—by 7. t', Blaek, "Japan— The Land op thk MhwniN»;"= by II', a. PIxon, 15dlnbvrgh-J. Gammel. "The Soul of the Far East" i "NoTo; An Unexplored Cornrh oj' JAPAN " ' by Perdval /owe/l, Boston— Tlcknor & Co. " JAPONICA "—by Sir F.itwiii Arnolil, A Series of I'ftpeis In Scrihier's Magailne, 1890-91. " Mme. Chrysanthbmb," Pftrls==Cttllmttnn-Levy. T "jAPONAisEKiES d'Automne," I'aflK -CttUmann-Lcvy. I — "Japanese Women" J by Pierre L0ti,"=Jt»rfier's Magailne, December, 1890. "Japanese Girls and Womhn " by A/ice Ihuon, Hosttm - Houghton, Mifflin & Co., 1891. "JiNRiKisiiA Days in Japan"— • by Eliza Ruhamah Siiilmnre, Npw York— Harper & Brothers, iSqi, "TiiiNiis Japanese" "by HiiUl (lull Chaml'erlain, i8gi. "A FLYiNt; Trip Around thk NVdhi.d"— by F.lizahelh PisUiml, New Yofk-Harpcr & Brothers, 1891. "CoREA— The Hermit Nation" = by \V. P.. Crijfis, Now York-Harper & Brothers. "CiiosoN— The Land op tiih Mohnino Calm"— by Pertival l.oivell, Himtitii— Houghton, Mifflin & Co. "The Middle Kingdom " -by AVc. Wells Williams. "Travels in Northurn ClllNA"=by /?«'. A'. Williamson. h A »* u— Z a .S2 < 8 O •< a ">. -L I \ ; ■ z < Q. >• < J 0) 7 ^ < fe q: IL o z iZ z ^ m s < 0. < z < I ■:) (L OD (0 ly (L ID z: o (L OD (0 lU a. 5 z IL OD OD lU (L LOO RBCORD. Steamship- Steam Date. Latitud«. LONOITUUK ^'^^^^f^'- Kkmahks. Date. — . __.. — - — — * s _ 1 LOQ RECORD. Rkmahks. steamship. Datk. Latitude. LONOITIOB Distance Run. Remakks. f ■- - , -■- LIST OF PRINCIPAL AGENCIES FROM WHOM DATES OF SAILING, TICKETS AND OTHER PARTICULARS OF PASSAGE MAY BE OBTAINED. ADELAIDE AUS. BALTIMORE MD. BOMBAY BR. INDIA BOSTON MASS. BRISBANE AUS. BROCKVILLE ONT. BUFFALO N.Y. CALCUTTA BR. INDIA CHICAGO ILL. COLOMBO CEYLON DETROIT MICH. GLASGOW SCOTLAND HALIFAX N.S. HAMILTON ONT. HIOGO JAPAN HONG KONG CHINA LIVERPOOL ENG. LONDON ENG. LONDON ONT. MANCHESTER ENG. MONTREAL QUE. MELBOURNE AUS. NEW YORK N.Y. NIAGARA FALLS N.Y. NIAGARA FALLS ONT. OTTAWA ONT. PHILADELPHIA PA. PORTLAND ME. PORTLAND ORE. PT. TOWNSEND ...WASH. QUEBEC QUE. RANGOON BR. INDIA SHERBROOKE QUE, ST. JOHN N.B. SAN FRANCISCO CAL. SAULTSTE. MARIE. MICH. SEATTLE WASH. ^ 1.NGHAI CHINA SIDNEY AUS. TACOMA WASH. TORONTO ONT. VANCOUVER B. 0. VICTORIA B.C. WINNIPEG MAN, YOKOH'.yA JAPAN Agents Oeeanlc S. 8. Co. H. McMmlrlf, Fit. & Pass. Agt., 203 E. German St. Thoniiis Cook & Hon, - - i:i U!un|)art Itow. ( C. K. Mcl'lieison, A. (i. l'. A., .'11 WiislihiKton St. } H. A. Colvin, N. K. I'a.ss, Agt., 211 Washington St. Thomas Cook & (Son, . . - 143 gueen St. (J. K. AlcOhule, Ticket Agent, - - 145 Main St. ]•:. I'. Allen, Frt. and Pass. Agent, 14 Exchange St. Tlionias Cook & Son, - U Old Court House St. J. Francis Lee, Dlst. Frt. & Pass. Agt., L':{i; S. Clark St. E. l^. Creasy, - - - Forwarding Agency. C. Shecliy, Dist. I'ass. Agent, - 11 Fort St. West. A. Haker, European Trallic Agent, 25 Gordon St. C. li. Barry, Ticket Agent, - - I'.'G llollis St. W. J. Grant, - - - « St. James St. South. Frazar & Co. (J. B. Dodwell, General Agent, - Clilna and .Japan. A. Baker, European TralHc Agent, - 7 .Tames St. " " 67 and 08 ICing William St., E. C. E. M. Peel, Ticket Agent, No. 1 Alasonic Temple. A. lUiker, European Tratllc Agent, 105 Market St. W. F. Egg, Dist. J'ass. Agent, - 2CG St. James .St. Thomas Cook & Son, - - - 281 <>)lllns St. ( E, V. Skinner, Gen'l East'n Agent, STiii Broadway. ( Everett Frazar,Chlna& Japan F. A., 124 Water St. ( I). Isaacs, George M. Colburn, .1. E. Parker, City Pass. Agent, Prosi»ect House. Clifton House. 42 Sparks St. H. Mc.Murtrle, Frt. and Pass. Agent, corn-.r Third and Ciiestnut Sts. AJ. L. Williams, - Maine Central R. R. W. S. Hineline, Passenger Agent, - 140 First St. James Joiu'S, 90 Taylor St. .T. W. Ryder, Frt. and Pass, Agent, St. Louis Hotel. T!'<)nias Cook & .Son, - - - Mercliaut St. (Jeo. Duncan, Ticket Agent, - Commercial St. J C. E. .McPherson, Ass't Gen'l I'ass. Agent. I Cluibl) & Co., Ticket Agents, - Chul)l)'s Corner. lAL M. Stern, Dist. Frt. & Pass. Agt., Chronicle Bldg. T. J{. Harvey, - 37 Aslnnun St. and S. S. Wharf. E. W. Mac(!liniis, "Starr-Boyd Building," Front St. G. B. Dodwell, General Agent, Ciiina and .Japan. Agent Oceanic S. S. Co. W. 1!. Thompson, Frt. & I'ass. Agt., KOI Pacilic Ave. ( W. I!. Callaway, Dist. Pass. Agent, lis King St. ( West and No. 1 King St. East. I 1). E. Brown, Ass't Gen'l Frt. ;ind I'ass. Agent. I (i. McL. Brown, Ticket Agent. Allan Cameron, Frt. v*t I'ass. Agt., Government St. ( l{ol)'t Iverr, Gen'l Frt. & Pass. Agt., W. & P. Divs. I W. M. McLeod, City Ticket Agent, - 471 Main St. it, China and .Japan. Agents for Japan. 8 I 3 10] 171 24 S 31 . G. B. Dodwell, G(!neral Agent, Frazar & Co., C. E. E£. USSHER, D. McNICOLL, Ass'T General Passenger Agent, General passenger Agent, MONXREAL., QUE. :iES R PARTICULARS 203 E. Cernian St. i:t Kaiiiiiiut Row. H \Viislilnt?t(m St. 11 WiisUluBtDii St. 143 Queen St. - 145 Miiln St. , 14 KxchaiiKC St. till Court House St. Vnt.,23'jS. Clark St. Drwardlug Ageucy. - n Fort St. West, it, '25 Gonloii St. I'.'fi llollls St. It. James St. South. . China and Japan, lit, - 7 James St. ijr\VilUamSt.,E.C. 1 Masonic Temple, ut, 105 Marlict St. - 200 St. James St. 281 (Collins St. cent, xa Broadway. iF. A., 1-24 Water St. I'rospect House. Clifton House. 42 Sparks St. ^Kont, forn-r Third Maine Central B. R. It, - 140 First St. 90 Taylor St. nt, St. Louis Hotel. Merchant St. Connnerclal St. Pass. ARent. - ChubU's Corner. igt.. Chronicle Bldg. St.andS.S. Wharf. P.uiUling," Front St. Cliina and Japan. ;it.,'.K)l I'acilic Ave. Anenl, ll.s King St. last. and I'ass. Agent. gt., (lovermnent St. Aut., W. & I'. l>ivs. gent, - 471 Main St. China and Japan. Agents for Japan. )LL, . PASSENGER AOENT, o>-.x«^<^» - ■ CALENDAR OCTOBER 8 M T W T P S 2223 2930 NOVEMBER • M T W T F S 2 8 910 1«H7 2324 30! DECEMBER ■ M T W T Ft IB 2021 27 1 7 8 1415 22 2H29 2 3 910 tfil7 2324 3031 }9) JANUARY 8 M 24 25 31 1 w APRIL S M T W T F 8 4 5 1112 18119 2- 23 6! 7 1314 .1. FEBRUARY M 1 8 15 22 29 W T ft 8 4 f)! n 10111218 18 19 20 252(i27 MAY SM T W T F 9 1516 20212223 27282930 2223 JULY 8 M T W T F'8 6 1213 1920 2627 .1.. OCTOBER 8 M T W T P 8 3031 2 3 4 91011 15 16 17 IH 293031 .1. 24 25 MARCH iff * * « 7 1814 2021 2728 w 2 8 4 5 0101112 161H17 222324 298031 1819 2526 JUNE AUGUST 8 M T W T F • B 12 1920 2627 NOVEMBER 8 M'T W TIF • 15 7 14 202122 27,2829 2 31 4 910ill 16171H 2324 30 25 8 M T WT F 8 1 7 8 1416 2122 2829 SEPTEMBER i M T WT F 8 5 6 1213 I8;1920 25:2627 1 8 15 22 29 2 9 16 23 30 DECEMBER • M T W T F 8 6 18 19:2021 26,2728 2 3 910 30!31 k-'-^Sitlfri'^ffi-H^V ■" i^ # diUi Je^^^f^t^hi:^ 3^^SS »■> ,,j,-_s--~^»»^