A revised edition of this volumey prepared for
the season of 1 869, will be published early in
the coming year. A large mapy covering all
the summer resorts of the country, has bsen or-
dered for this edition. Tourists who discover
errors in the present volume, zvill confer a
favor by informing the compiler, at the office
of publication. No, 229 Broadway, New- York,

wnEK

A CO!

Author

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BOOK

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}

EXP7>^iINING

WHERE TO FIKD THEM, HOW TO FIND THEM, AND THEIR

ESPECIAL ADVANTAGES,

"WITH

DETAILS OF TIME TABLES AND PRICES.

A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR THE SUMMER TOURIST,

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTBATIONS.

COMPILED BY

CHARLES H. SWKETSER,

Author of the " Guide to the Northwest," and Editor of the " New-
York Evening MaU."

NEW-YORK :
"EVENINQ MAIL" OFFICE, No. 329 BROADWAY.

1868.

Caric*hrqi.fe

Uf^iversitd . Ottawa • University

Map LK>rcjry

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by

CHARLES H. SWEETSER,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for
the Southern District of New-York,

A. GEAT A OBEEK, • C? O

JOHN

FBINTEBB,
16 AND 18 JACOB BTBBST, KEW-TOBC.

'•^1

•-'^ , , ' ■< • W

%.-..

This Book op Summer Bbsorts is intended as a hand-book of
practical information. It lias been carefully and laboriously com-
piled, and is believed to be generally correct. Another season it
will be made still more complete. We shall be happy to receive
from any source facts and incidents that will add value to future
editions. Our country is a splendid one for the tourist, but it has
wretched guide-books. We trust that this volume will increase tbo
interest in the former, and suggest improvements for the latter.

We have gleaned from any and all sources at command, borrowed
and original. Especially have we culled from BurVs Connecticut
B'mr Guide, WaUing's Route Books, Lossing's Hudson, Star King's
White mils, and William L. Stone's Saratoga writings. But a very
considerable part of the book is original.

For many matters of interest to the summer tourist, we refer the
reader to the introductory chapter. And for pure air, bird concerts,
sparkling waters, long life, health, and happiness, we refer one and
all to the places whither this book directs.

Nkw-York, June, 1868,

The compiler of this volume will make a specialty of reporting
summer resort news through the columns of his paper, the New-
York Evening Mail. In this journal there will be presented from
time to time most valuable correspondence ft-om many resorts, and
every thing of interest to the summer traveler will be carefully
noted. The Mail will be sent to any address during the months of
June, July, August, and September for two dollars, or at the general
rate of fifty cents per month.

GENEEAL DIYISIOKS.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

II.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

III.
SPRINGS AND FALLS.

IV.

SEASIDE RESORTS.

DOMINION OF CANADA.

VI.

TIME TABLES.

^ I

vn.
COMPLETE TOPICAL INDEX.

VIII.

MEMORANDA.

IX.

ADVERTISEMENTS FOR TOURISTS.

MAPS.

NEW-ENGLAND.

LONG ISLAND SOUND.

THE PROVINCES.

LAKE CIIAMPLAIN.

ROUTES TO SOUTHERN SPRINGS.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Cattskill Mountain Hoase.
Lake Memphremagog House.
The Flume, White Mountains.
Crystal Cascade, White Mountains.
Glen Ellis Fall8,White Mountains.
White Mountains.
Fort William Henry Hotel, Lake

George.
Tadoussac Hotel, Quebec Prov.
Fouquet's Hotel, Plattsburg.
Windermere House, Greenwood

Lake.
Empire and Congress Springs,

Saratoga.
High Rock Spring, Saratoga.
HiiSh Rock Spring in 1767.

Congress Hall, Saratoga.

Union Hotel and Grounds, Sara-
toga.

Columbian Spring, Saratoga.

Messena Sprmgs.

Taghkanic Falls.

Pulpit Falls, Ithaca, N. Y.

Falls at Ithaca.

Ocean House, Newport.

White Sulphur Springs, Va.

Falls of Minnehaha, Minnesota.

Arched Rocks, Lake Superior.

Mt. Mansfield House, Stowe, Vt.

Genesee Falls, N. Y.

Franconia Notch, Whl' ~ Moon-
tains.

GENERAL INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

••♦•-

PEACTICAL HINTS TO THE TOUKIST.

TiiEKR are five tilings that an experionccd traveler al-
ways makes a particular care :

/. He owns a good trunk.

IT. He carries thick clothiivj, even in the hottest weather.

III. ITis hand-satchel is never without camphor, lauda-
num, and brandy for medicine,

IV. He docs not drink water in unaccustomed places.

r. He buys through tickets, e. sn when not going beyond
a local station.

The summer tourist should certainly have his trip
pretty well mapped out before starting. If he has four
weeks and two hundred and fifty dollars, he can make
either of the

Lake Superior Trip,

White Mountain Trip,

Virginia Springs Trip,

St. Lawrence and Saguenay Trip.

If he has six weeks and three hundred and fifty dollars,
he i)an make the j'

Trip OF THE Provinces.

INTUODUCTOUY CIIArXKR.

For a four weeks' Bujourn at the

Sea-Siiouk,

one liundred and fifty dollars will sufllcc, even at tlio
most popular ])lacefl.

If tlio tourist luis only two wecka and ono hundred dol-
lar, he can make a trip to

Sauatoga Spiiinos

and

Lake George.

A younpf man can make the trip of the White Moun-
tains with one hundred dollars, and wander about for ten
days or a fortnij[rht.

If one desires to breathe the sea air for a little, but does
not care to spend over fifty or seventy-five dollars, he will
do well to go to Branford, Ct., Watch Hill, II. I., or llye,
N. H.

The tourist should not visit Niagara, Long Branch, New-
port, or Cape May, intending to live at the best hotels,
witliout providing himself with money at the rate of fifty
dollars a week.

The time-tables published in the railway-guides, al-
though very valuable, are not so accurate as they should be.
If you make extensive journeyings, you will do well to
l^rovide yourself with the time-tables of the roads over
which you pass. They can be procured at leading hotels,
or at central or union ticket-offices. This will save you
much vexation.

Remember that the general cost of travel upon railroads
is three and one third cents per mile. Upon steamboats it
is generally one third less.

IXTnODUCTORY CIIAPTKR.

at tlio
•ed dol-

Moun-
for ten

ut does
lie will
or live,

1, New-
hotels,
of fifty

cles, al-
3uld bo.
well to
is over
hotels,
Lve you

lilroads
boats it

At Nlnj]fftrn, and the Wliito ^rouiitftlns, tlioro 1« nn ep-
tablirtlied rate of ])rireH for tin* hacknicn and stn^jfrs. Tlieni^
you can learn at tlui hotel-desk, and if you then Hubmit to
extortion, it is nimplest foolishnesM.

When you have lon;:^ days of journey before you, carry
lunclu'H in your satchels. It will save extra vagrant ex-
pense's, and will alTortl a vast deal more comfort than tha
railroad restaurants.

Long Uranch, Saratoga, and tho White Mountains aro
inconiparal>ly tlu? three great sumnier resorts of tho coun-
try. Of tho Lakes, Mahopac is first. Tho " (iroffory
House" there is unccpialed in the country. The "Pecpiot
House," at New-London, i^ certainly tho most fashionable
Bummer hotel in th(; countrv.

If you aro planning a trip among the Adlrondacks, re-
member that Plattsburg, Vt., is the grand starting-point.
Go directly to Fouquet's Hotel, and there you can get all
information, and mak(} all your plans. Do not plan for
less than six weeks, if you aro going to tho Adirondacks.
Two hundred dollars will cover the expense.

In going to tho White Mountains, go up the Connecti-
cut Valley, and return by way of Portland.

For downright rough sea-sido experience, the best point
for the tourist is Mount Desert, Maine. You can spend a
fortnight here for fifty dollars.

Some of the best fishing points are at the eastern ex-
tremity of Long Island, and which are almost tlie only
places not fully recorded in this book. Another season
we shall make this more complete. But it the tourist takes
the boat to Sag Harbor, he ^^'ill find a good boarding-house
there, and if ho goes by Long Island Railroad to Green-
port, he will have no difficulty in locating among ii^e fa-
vorite haunts of the fishermen.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

For trout-fishing', go to Lake Umbagog, north of t\e
White Mountains about 20 miles. TJiere are no hotels
here, but you can live with the farmers, and have glorious
bread and milk. The starting-point for Umbagog is
Gorham, N. H.

The Delaware Water Gap trip affords a view of some of
the finest scenery in all the country. There are splendid
hotels here, and it is a most fascinating trip to take.

For a far trip, nothing can be more interesting, varied,
and healthy than up Lake Superior, across in the forests
(by stage) to St. Paul, thence down the Mississippi, and
home by Madison, Chicago, and Detroit. This requires
six weeks, and three hundred and fifty dollars. There is
superb fishing all about St. Paul. For any one inclined
to consumption, no better trip can be taken in the world.
Only remember in going up Lake Superior, that only one
boat (the Keweenaw) goes all the way through the lake to
Superior City.

The White Sulphur Springs are most popular, and are
well described in this volume.

For a lengthy summer visit, Conroy, N. H., Manchester,
Vt., Stockbridge, Northampton, and Greenfield, Mass., and
Litchfield and Stamford, Ct., are the most delig'htful.

The most enchanting near mountain view in the coun-
try is from Mount Holyoke, near Northampton, Mass.

If you go to the White Mountains, do not fail to visit
Berlin Fails, above Gorham. They are, inadvertently,
almost overlooked in our White Mountain chapter.

Of the Long Branch hotels, •* Howland's" is most exclu-
sive, " Stetson's" most elegant, the " Continental" the
largest and gayest, the " Mansion" finest situated for the
water, and the " Metropolitan" nearest the cars and most
reasonable in prices.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

'»■

The Guilford Point House, at Guilford, Ct., is ono of
the very best sea-side hotels. It is quiet and yet fashion-
able, and the prices reasonable.

The College Hill House, at Poughkeepsie, Highland
House, at Garrison's, (West-Point,) Heath House, at
Schooley's Mountain, and the Saint Alban's House, on
Lake Champlain, are all famous for their excellent man-
agement. '

In making fishing excursions, there is little advantag(^
in carrying with you any apparatus. It can be procuretl
easily and cheaply at all the fishing resorts.

For mackerel-fishing, go to Swampscot, Mass. For bl no-
fishing, cruise among the Thimble Islands in the Sound,
off Branford. For crabbing and clams, the Rocky Point
Hovse, near Providence, is celebrated.

At the Sault Sainte Marie, Lake Superior, +here is a hotol
that is much frequented by fishermen. At this point the
Indians catch great quantities of lake trout for the market.
The three best lakes in Minnesota for fishing are : Minne-
tonka. White Bear, and Clear Lake. There are hotels at
each. There is superb fishing in the lakes about Madison,
Wisconsin.

If you want a grand old buffalo hunt, go to Fort Abcr-
crombie, by stage from Saint Paul. For the best dc(.'r
hunting, go to Sunrise, Wisconsin, on the military and
stage road from Saint Paul to Superior City. For brook
trout, there is no place in all the land equal to " Twin
Lakes," 20 miles west of Superior City.

Young men who desire adventure will find the best
ocean trip from Superior City up the Saint Louis Kiver,
across Sandy Lake, and down the Mississippi to Saint
Paul. This requires a week, and an Indian guide or two.

The trip *' across the Continent " has been ignored in

INTJJODUCTORY CHAPTER.

this book, as hardly yet practicable for the ordinary sum-
mer tourist. It will doubtless take its place in our next
(Hlition.

In our account of Sharon Springs we have neglected to
fH[>;'ak of Union Hall, one of the leading hotels there. It
is kept by Mr. A. Willmann. Terms, $3.50 per day, wHh
a reduction for families ; rooms for 300 guests. House
open from June 15th to September 15th. Sulphur baths
may be had here.

In our Staten Island article we have neglected to notice
Pettler's Hotel, which has just been purchased by Mr.
Lachmeyer, and which is now being refitted and enlarged.
The house overlooks the entire Bay of New- York, and is
I'cached from the first steamboat landing on either side.

The "New- York Hotel," at Pleasure Bay, has been
leased by Mrs. Mortimer, who kept the " Cooper Cottage"
last year.

Nearly all the summer hotels will open this year on the
J bt of June.

Tourists who propose to make the overland trip to Cali-
fornia will find some useful tables among the time-tables
at the end of the volume.

In planning for the Lake Superior trip, the tourist
8liould remember that boats leave tri- weekly from Detroit
and Cleveland. The Keweenaw goes to Superior City.
The Meteor and other boats to Ontonagon only.

In going to Saint Paul, Minnesota, if you do not have
the time for the steamboat trip ui) the Mississippi, you can
go all the way by cars, crossing the Mississippi at Prairie
du Chien. Maps and time-tables can be had of Mr. Prince,
No. 2 Astor House, New- York.

Among the excursions announced for the summer, none
will be more delightful than tliose planned by the New-
Jersey Railway to the Virginia Springs.

IJfTKOCUCTOEV CnAPTEE. jq

plea.a^t ends. ^' "^ ""'" """^^ """"y good and

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.jMU.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ALONG THE HUDSON BIYEB.

Mr. Lossing, in his Book of the Hudson, (to which,,
with other volumes, we are greatly indebted,) well re-
marks, that " the past has left scarcely a record upon the-
shores of this river ; it is full of the living present, illus-
trating by its general aspect the free thought and free ac-
tion which are giving strength and solidity to the young
and vigorous nation within whose bosom its bright waters
flow." The Hudson is commonly spoken of in comparison
with the Rhine ; but, unlike that less charming stream,,
its beauties are those of nature, and not antiquity ; its dis-
tinction is almost wholly dependent upon the peculiar;
attractions of its banks, its woods and mountains. We
start, therefore, appropriately, from the busiest city in the
world, and shall seldom be turned aside from Nature's
beauty by tradition or history till we lose ourselves in
the primeval forest whence the Hudson springs. Our way
lies now over the very finest route for the summer tourist
in all the country ; and it is peculiarly American, as it is
peculiarly beautiful.

In the present article, we shall include not only the im-
mediate banks of the river, but points of interest along
the Harlem and Piermont (Northern New-Jersey) Railways,

LAKES, niVEBS, AND MOUNTAINS.

I !i

r, K

fi il

as fitly belonging here. The river-trip proper may bo
made best in cither one of two ways : by the day -boat to
Albany, the " Daniel Drew," or tlio " Chauncey Vibbard,"
9 A.M., from foot of Harrison street ; fare, $1 ; excellent din-
ner ($1) on board ; or by the Hudson River Railway, in Wag-
ner's " drawing-room cars," which afford at once elegance,
seclusion without danger, and as perfect a view, through
largo windows, as can be gained from land ; (charge, $1
extra, over fare, to Albany.) The time to Albany is, by
steamboat, about 15 hours ; by rail, 6 hours on express
trains, Q^ to 7 on others. Fare on railway — about one third
less in summer than in winter — through to Albany, $8.20.

For the tourist, the Hudson River will begin at Harrison
or at Thirtieth street, and be little more than a place to get
away from until he reach One Hundred and Fifty-second
street, cUias Washington Heights, where there is a way-
fitation of the railway, and a large hotel just opposite.

Washington Heights may well be made a point of de-
parture by such tourists as are unfamiliar with the ele-
gant upper portion of New- York Island and its neighbor-
hood. Revolutionary memories are most plentiful here,
and one can almost perceive the struggle going on be-
tween the bones of the martyrs of 76 and the cabbages
of our wealthy butchers and bakers, etc., who have pur-
chased and are metamorphosing the ancient ground. A
ride of 5 miles in any direction over the splendidly
macadamized Bloomingaale road, the continuation (for
more than 20 miles) of Broadway, or over many of
the by-ways, will richly repay the visitor. The natural-
ist Audubon purchased and improved, a few years ago, a
fine grove less than a quarter-mile above the hotel, calling
\t Audubon Park. The inclosure is now filled with pretty
cottages, the one nearest the south-west being the original

LAKES,

RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

mansion. Tho widow of tho savant resides in one of the
other dwollinffs. Near the park, toward tho east, is tho
Trinity Cliurch Cemetery, in which are many notable
graves, among them that of Audubon. Tho Convent of
the Sacred Heart, a large and fashionable young ladies'
boarding-school as well as convent, Roman Catholic in
government, is further down, upon tlio Tenth avenue ;
and the pretentious residence, with gilded dome, of the
editor of the New-York Herakl, James Gordon Bennett,
commonly attracts the curiosity of a stranger as we go
nearer the eastern shore. Before leaving the Heights, the
visitor will also wish to examine the spot whose former
occupation gives name to the mountain or ridge upon
which are all these places — the old Fort Washington.
This extended its earth-works quite to the river ; but the
citadel stood on the crown of Mount '7ashington, now
called Washington Heights, the most elevated land on the
island, overlooking the country in every direction, and
having in view the river from the Highlands to the har-
bor of the city below. The'' exact location was between
One Hundred and Eighty-first and One Hundred and
Eighty-sixth streets, and about Eleventh avenue. The
Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb stands nearly upon the
spot, and the whole vicinity is occupied with charming
villas. The only ren^ains of the Revolutionary fortifica-
tions visible are in the earth- works on the river at Jeffrey's
Hook.

While at the Heights, one must run over to the Harlem
side of the island. High Bridge is well known to every
one as a magnificent viaduct 1450 feet long, 114 high,
transporting the Croton River water in huge mains over
the Harlem (more properly Muscoota) River, two miles
above Harlem Bridge, at One Hundred and Thirtietli

LAKES, IlIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS,

!< '

street. Morris House, on the cliff ovcrhanji^inff the river,
is a fine old mansion, famous as the residence of Aaron
Burr's widow, better known as Madame Jumel, her former
husband's name. The mansion was erected in 1755 by
Roger Morris, General Washington's successful (Tory) ri-
val in a suit for the hand of Miss Mary Philipse. A fine
view of the vicinity may bo had cither from the house or
the grounds behind it.

About a mile inland, on the Kingsbridgo road, half-way
between the two rivers, is the Grange, the house of Gen.
Alexander Hamilton, standing secluded at some distance
from the road. Near the house is a group of 13 trees
planted by the General, and named after the original States ;
the one named South-Carolina alone grew up crooked 1

Spuyt den Duyvel Creek is a veiy pretty little stream,
though too trifling to be the dividing line, as it is, of the
great city from Westchester county. It takes its name
from the famous attempt of Stuyvesant's trumpeter, An-
tony Van Corlear, to swim across it en spuyt den Duyvel —
" in spite of the Devil !'* The latter personage triumphed,
and has commonly been considered master of the situa-
tion, not to say of the city, ever since I The creek runs
in a north-westerly direction from the Muscoota (Harlem)
to the Hudson River. Kingsbridge is a small wooden
bridge over the creek, at its head, where there is some-
what of a village. It was built in 1693, and was the only
means of approaching Manhattan (New- York) from the
mainland. Here there was much fighting during the
Revolution, and from its northern end to the Croton River
the country was so unsafe that neither Whig nor Tory
could live safely, whence the name of the Neutral Ground.
At the northern border of it we shall meet with tha inter-
esting history of Major Andre.

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Over tlio (Hudson) river, the Northern Hallway of Now.
Jersey run;* back into the country beyond tUo cliffs, mak-
ing its most important calls at Fort Leo, Enjflewood, and
Piermont. Engk'wood boasts tho Palisade House, a largo
hotel, where many summer boarders find delightful es-
cape from the city. Fort Leo is a village grandly situated
on the southern summit of the Palisades, 5300 feet above
the river, and chiefly interesting from that fact. These
splendid cliffs, or columns, beginning at Fort Leo, about
opposite One Hundred and Sixtieth street in tho city, ex-
tend some 20 miles up the river, as far as the Tappan Zee,
(Sea,) a broad basin at Tarrytown. More imposing, con-
sidering their distance and height, than the rocky banks
of the Saguenay, they form a magnificent contrast to the
quiet beauty of the opposite shore. The formation is
trap, much resembling the columns of Fingal's Cave and
the Giant Causeway ; but tho cliff hardly varies from the
perpendicular, and extends unbrokenly until it terminates
as abruptly as it began. Tho height of the Palisades is
300 to 500 feet.

Past New- York (Manhattan) Island, the next best stop-
ping-place is Yonkers, where is the Getty House, W. H.
Doty, proprietor — always open. The village is an ancient
settlement at the mouth of the Neperah, or Sawmill River,
w^as recently incorporated, and is a favorite suburban home
of New-Yorkers. The chief attraction to visitors is the
ancient Philipse Manor, built in 1683 and 1745, now occu-
pied by the Hon. W. W. Woodworth, who makes visitors
welcome. Beautiful Mary Philipse, tho early love of
General Washington, was born and lived here. It
was at Yonkers landing that Hudson found the strong
tidal current from the north that revived his hopes
of a northern passage to India. Font Hill, 1| miles

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

down, 18 a mannlon built in En^liHli cnHtcllatcd form
by Edwin ForruHt, tra^ttlian, for a sumni<»r rtJBidcnco,
In 1838. HiH dreams of domestic liappiness were ])erm it-
ted realizati(m hero with his wifo till 1844, when ho
revisited Enjjfland and became involved with Ma-
cready. This resulted in the famous " Astor Place riots"
in New- York City, 1848, and domestic troubles and divorce
to poor Forrest. Tho Roman Catholic Sisters of Charity
(Mount Saint Vincent) have purchased and preatly added
to tho buildings for a convent. Dobb's Ferry, (which read-
ers of the January Putnam will easily recognize,) orij^i-
nally Weec-qucs-guck, (Indian for " place of tho bark-ket-
tle,") is 5 miles north of Yonkers, on tho railway, and is
notable for the Livingston Mansion, now owned by Ste-
phen Archer, a Friend, where Washington met, in 1783,
the " Civil Governor of New- York," George Clinton, and
the British commander, Sir Guy Carleton, to confer con-
cerning tho evacuation of the city. At this point in tho
river is the most picturesque portion of the Palisades.

The passenger by boat will stop at Piermont, on the
west bank, between Tarrytown and Dobb's Ferry. Irving-
ton is directly opposite to it. The Erie Railway formerly
made Piermont its eastern terminus ; but since New-Jer-
sey has admitted that great corporation to privileges on its
soil, only the freight terminus remains here. The river at
this point is 3 miles wide, and still retains the old Dutch
name of Tappan Zee. The village of Tappan, where
Andre was tried and executed, is 3 miles out of Piermont,

Tarrytown must be the traveler's point of departure for
the region made classic by Irving. Every body knows
what there is of interest hereabout, and will need no as-
sistance from us. Andre's monument, on the spot of his
arrest. Van Wart's monument, at Greensburg, 3 miles

MhllMMl

9
f

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

east, ami tlio moniimont to the tlirco captorfl, ncrr tho Po-
cantc'co, am tlm clikof Uovolutioaary rDiiiiiulcri*. Ono milo
below Irvinffton is Nevin, tho eHtate of (km. Aloxaiuler
Hamilton's cldewt Boa. James, whoro may bo soon tho li-
brary, and a portrait by Stuart, of tin; illiiHtriouH olHcer.
Not far (liHtant is Mr. OHtinet's residonco, built in French
Bty-lo, of Caen stono, and 08t<^eincd superior, externally and
internally, ^o any other dwelling on the Hudson. The
owner is a weuitliy merchant of New- York. Another re-
markably fine mansion near Tarrytown is tlio Paulding
Manor, built of white marble in the pointed Tudor style,
and exceedingly jncturesquo in effect.

The principal points of interest regarding Washington
Irvirg's home and writings are : Sunnyside, his residence,
with 'ts grounds, on Wolfe rt Acker's Rust, 3 miles below
Tarry I own ; Sleepy Hollow, just above tho old brick and
stone Dutch church, on the Pocanteco, where Ichabod lost
his wits ; and tho grave of tho great Irving, behind tho
old church, in full view of the Tappan Zee.

At Nyack, a charming village on the west shore a little
above tho point opposite Tarrytown, (ferry from the latter
place,) the Smithsonian House affords entertainment,
whence a short drive brings the tourist to Rockland Lake,
150 feet above the river, half a mile long and three fourths
wide, noted for its ice trade. The Hackensack River car-
ries the waters of this lake to Newark Bay, near New-
York. On the other side of the river there is the State
prison at Sing Sing, which the tourist will hardly care to
visit ; and at Croton Point, 36 miles from New- York, he
will find the mouth of Croton (originally Kitchawan) River,
and may profitably visit the artificial lake from which the
purified waters of the stream supply the citizens of Man-
hattan. Dr. UnderhilFs graperies are located at Croton,

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

: I* !

ii>

and are wortli visiting. Recrossing the river ard ascend-
ing a few miles, we are at Stony Point, made forever fa-
mous by " Mad Anthony Wayne," in 1779. The whole
point is a mass of granite rock, with patches of evergreen
and shrubs, except on the northern side, where is a black
cliff of magnetic ore, not worth quarrying.

We are now rapidly approaching Peekskill, the second
of the chief stations, (Yonkers first,) on the railway, 43
miles up. The river here becomes 3 miles broad, form-
ing Haverstraw Bay, which extends as far north as the
Dunderberg, a grand, boulder-like mountain, ("thunder
mountain,") about a mile above the town, on the west
bank. This and Anthony's Nose, opposite, are two of the
finest elevations of the whole river-bank. The railway
tunnel under Anthony's Nose is one of the most interest-
ing objects in itself and its vicinity which the rapid tra-
veler may enjoy. Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory
which rises to the height of 1128 feet, the base of which
has been tunneled by the railway a length' of 200 feet.
Two miles above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an eleva-
tion of 865 feet. Near by, and reaching far out into the
river, is a sandy bluff, on which Fort Independence once
stood. Further on is Beverly Island, and in the extreme
distance Bear Mountain. At Peekskill itself, the Van Cort-
landt Mansion, once Gen. Washington's headquarters, the
monument to Paulding, (one of Andre's captors,) and
Henry Ward Beecher's residence, are the chief things to
see. Mr. Beecher has a farm of about 30 acres, and every
farmer in the neighborhood is puzzled to know how he
gets so much out of it. It produces an enormous quantity of
vegetables, most of which are sold in the village, and his
neighbors say it nets him about $5000 a year. It stands on
the slope of one of the hills that stretch up from the Hud-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

son River, and is one of the smartest and prettiest houses,
though decidedly antique in architecture, that one could
wish to live in. Mr. Beecher's family reside here from the
beginning of summer till about the middle of the fall, and
the head of the establishment spends about half of the
same time.

liake Mohegan is only 4 miles distant, and Lake Malio-
pac about 14. Another lake, Oskewanna, is 4 miles away.
There was only one hotel at Lake Mohegan last season,
but there are several boarding-houses in the neighbor-
hood, and most of them are pretty well filled. There is
excellent fishing at Oskewanna, and parties from New
York ride out from Peekskill every day, spend a few hours
coaxing pickerel from their cool retreat, and return next
day. Most of the visitors at Lake Mahopac run out by
the Harlem Railway.

Close by the Dunderberg, just below the Brocken Kill,
lies lona Island, (300 acres, 200 being marsh,) rendered no-
table of late by Dr. C. W. Grant's nursery and graperies.
This island is upon the dividing line of temperature. The
sea-breeze stops here, and its effects are visible upon vege-
tation. The season is two weeks earlier than at Newburg,
only 14 miles north, above the Highlands. The width of
the river between the island and Anthony's Nose is only
three eighths of a mile — less than at any other point below
Albany ; and the tidal currents here, in the deep water,
are so swift that this part of the river is called the Race.
It is about at this point that the river takes a great bend
to the north-east, recovering from the western bend by
which it leaves the bay at Peck's Kill, and continues in a
narrower channel till we pass Cold Spring, where it turns
again to the east slightly. The last change of direction
is caused by Weat-Point, a bold promontory of great

LAKES, El VERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

i.i

attractions, both naturally, aesthetically, and socially. This
famous resort is reached directly by boat, and by ferry
from the railway st.ation of Garrison's, 51 miles from New-
York City. The Highland House at Garrison's accommo-
dates 50 boarders j reached by stage. Cozzen«'s, 1 mile
below the Point, is the principal hotel ; excellent, but lim-
ited (200) in accommodations. Roe's Hotel is at the extreme
north end of the plateau. Both houses command magnifi-
cent views. Cozzens's is nearest to Buttermilk Falls — a
small cascade 3 ixiiles above Fort Montgomery, where Sir
Henry Clinton, in 1777, successfully attacked and drove
out the brothers, Generals George and James Clinton,
hoping thereby to save Burgoyne's surrender at Saratoga.
The falls are 100 feet high, of a milk-w^hite color when
swollen, whence tlieir name. They are situate on Sinni ■
pink Lake, at the foot of Bear Mountain — the lake so in-
carnadined at the battles named above as to be otherwise
known as Bloody Pond.

The best months in which to visit West-Point are July
and August, not only for viewing the river scenery, which
is extremely luxuriant at that season, but on account of
the military exercises, better known as " exhibitions," in
which all the cadets join. The Military Academy, at the
extreme north end of the promontory, Flirtation Walk, a
romantic shaded path cut in the rocky hillside, leading to
Kosciusko's garden and monument, and numberless other
minor attractions, render the point one to be long remem-
bered with pleasure by its visitors.

Cro'nest, more commonly known as Kidd's Plug Cliff,
on the western bank, casts its broad shadow upon us as we
continue our voyage up from West-Point. This is one of
the highest mountains found in the Highland group — 1428
feet. Rodman Drake's Culprit Fay has its scene here.

■OM

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

;. This
)y ferry
n New-
commo-
1 mile
)ut lim-
3xtreme
magnifi-
Falls— a
lere Sir
d drove
Clinton,
aratoga.
or wlien
n Sinni-
£6 so in-
tlierwise

are July
, which
lount of
|.ons," in
', at the
IWalk, a
lading to
jss other
remem-

|ug Cliff.

18 as we
Is one of
jp— 1428

le here.

George P. Morris lived at Urdercliff, a terrace of Bull Hill,
opposite Cro'nest, and wrote about it. Cold Spring is the
railway station for both these points, the cliff where Kidd
" plugged" away bis treasures being reached by row-boat.

The village of Cornwall is on the same side of the river
with Cro'nest, in Orange county. It is a favorite place of
summer resort ; hotel. Linden Park, kept by C. H. Ring.
Idlewild, the residence of the late N. P. Willis, is a little
north of the village. That genial poet has done the resi-
dents of this vicinity much good service, like Dr. Hitchcock
at the hills about Amherst, Mass., in substituting Indian or
poetic names for the barbaric terms often covering these
splendid cliffs.

Beyond Cold Spring, on the east bank of the river, the
HighliiUd range is continued in the jagged precipices of
the Breakneck and Beacon hills, in height respectively
1187 and 1685 feet. These mountains are among the
most commanding features of the river scenery. Mr.
Lossing remarks of this region, " I rowed to the middle of
the river in the direction of Cold Spring village, (from
Newburg,) and obtained a fine view of the Highland en-
trance to Newburg Bay. On the left, in shadow [sunset]
stood the Storm King, on the right was rugged Break-
neck, with its neighbor, round Little Beacon Hill, and be-
tween was Pollopell's Island, a solitary rocky eminence
rising from the river a mile north of them. Beyond these
were seen the expanse of Newburg Bay, the village, the
cultivated country beyond, and the dim, pale peaks of the
Katzbergs, [Catskills,] almost GO miles distant. This view
is always admired by travelers as one of the most agree-
able from New- York to Albany."

Newburg lies on the western bank of the river, nearly
opposite Fishkill, with wliich communication is had by

! I

i I

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ferry. It is tlie youngest city in the State, and has a popu-
lation of 15,000. The hotels are : United States, by H.
Blake, opposite the landing ; the Powelton, same propri-
etor, 1| miles from the landing, a quarter-mile from the
river. The future Boston, Atlantic, and Erie Railway will
have its western terminus "liere, and the Company are
endeavoring to obtain privilege to bridge the river here,
that they may connect westward : the road now ends at
Waterbury, Ct., and is known as the Providence, Hartford,
and Fishkill. Newburg is the scene of many of the
incidents in Cooper's Spy; but the tourist will find it
most interesting in the fine landscape and the historical
reminiscences at Washington's head-quarters, the old Has-
brouck Mansion, built 1750, now owned by the State. The
Revolutionary army was disbanded here June 23d, 1783.
In the spring of that year, at this place, a revolt against
Congress by the soldiers was quieted by General Wash-
ington, after he had been offered the power and title of
king, with such result as the reader may imagine. The
old mansion stands in the south part of the village.

Two miles north-east of Fishkill Landing is the Ver-
planck House, interesting as having once been the head-
quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place in which the
famous Society of the Cincinnati was organized in 1783.

Beyond this, the first point of interest is New- Hamburg
Tunnel, an excavation through a rocky promontory, 800
feet long. All over this bluff, including the roof of
the tunnel, the arbor mice, commonly but inaccurately
called the white cedar, grows most abundantly and
beautifully. Loudon, the English horticulturist, deems
these some of the finest specimens of this shrub in the
world. They grow of all sizes and most perfect in form ;
but the most beautiful are those of 6 to 10 feet in height,

— . — ^-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

has a popu-
ates, by H.
ime propri-
le fromtlio
Railway will
ompany are
e river here,
now ends at
.ce, Hartford,
nany of the
will find it
lie historical
, the old Has-
e State. The
Lne 23d, 1783.
revolt against
eneral Wash-
r and title of
nagine. The
tillage.

g is the Ver-
een the head-
in which the
5ed in 1783.
^ewHamburg

omontory, 800
f the roof of
inaccurately
undantly and
llturist, deems
shrub in the
srfect in form ;
■eet in height,

whoso branches shoot out close to the ground, forming
perfect cones, and exhibiting nothing to the eye but deli-
cate sprays and brig'it green leaves. The traveler can not
fail to have his attention drawn to these beautiful shrubs
from the dock of his steamboat. Next to New-Hamburg
comes ^Milton Landing on the railway, a viUage which,
with Marlborough lying further back, is noted for vast
supplies of raspberries, wholly employing one steamboat
during the season, for the New- York City market. At
Milton, Tlicopliilus Anthony, a blacksmith, helped to forge
the chain which was stretched across the river at Fort
Montgomery by the patriots in 1777. His grandsons, the
Messrs. Gill, sustain a mill on his place, by the old stone
mansion.

At the mouth of the foaming Winnakee Creek, 75 miles
above New- York City, and the same distance from Troy, a
pretty Mohegan legend relates that a young Delaware
chief, with his bride, found a " safe and pleasant harbor "
from pursuing Hurons; whence the name, which is in
Indian, Apokeepsinck, now written Poughkeepsle. There
are on record 43 different spellings of this name. The city
was settled by the Dutch in 1705, contains 17,000 people,
and is the third important station on the road to Albany.
A notoriously poor restaurant at the depot affords edibles
and potables during the " ten minutes for refreshments."
The city is partly upon a hill-side, sloping to the river,
but chiefly on an elevated plain, back of which is College
Hill, whose summit is 500 feet above the town. Here is
the College Hill House, standing on the Hyde Park road,
2 miles from the centre of the town : a first-class, admi-
rable summer hotel, just opened, with rooms for 50 board-
ers. The Morgan House is a first-class hotel on the main
street. Within a few miles' ride are Locust Grove, residence

i k

I I

'* ii

?;'

i I

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

of Professor S. F. B. Morse, author of the elcctro-majynetic-
telerrraph — a beautifully embowered villa ; Vassar College
for young- ladies, a splendid and most complete institution,
admirable and peculiar in architecture, and the munificent
gift of Mr. Matthew Vassar, of Poughkeepsie ; the famous
" Business Colleges " of Poughkeepsie, and the Hyde Park
road and village, 5 miles distant. Benson J. Lossing re-
sides here.

llondout is opposite Rhinebeck, which is 90 miles from
New- York City. It stands on the Rondout (Redoubt) Creek,
2^^ miles up which is the Delaware and Hudson Canal.
The coal business makes Rondout one of the most active
places on the Hudson. Rhinebeck was named in honor
of the great river of the country whence came William
Beekman, the first settler, a sort of Hudson River Penn, in
1G47. The mansion is one of the best specimens of an old
Dutch homestead to be found in the Hudson valley ; and
several other fine residences attract the curiosity of
tourists. Exchange Hotel affords good accommodations
at Rhinebeck.

Saugerties and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other
on the east bank of the river, next attract our attention.
Saugerties is a picturesque and prosperous manufacturing
village, at the mouth of the Esopus Creek. Rokeby, the
estate of William B. Astor, son of John Jacob Astor, was
built by his father-in-law. General John Armstrong, who
wrote the addresses to the Continental army which came
so near producing a revolt, as we saw just now a^ New-
burg. The place is less than 5 m.iles below Tivoli.
Near it is Saint Stephen's College, a training school pre-
paratory to the General Theological (Episcopal) Seminary
in Chelsea, New- York City, and established by Mr. John
Bard, at an expense of $G0,00O.

■— (;

:o-maj?netic-
fisar College
! institution,
3 munificent
the famous
3 Hyde Park
. Lossiug re-

miles from
doul)t) Creek,
udson Canal.
3 most active
led in lionor
ame William
liver Penn, in '
lens of an old

1 valley ; and
curiosity of

iommodations

and tlie other
our attention,
nanufacturing

Bokeby, the
;ob Astor, was
•mstrong, who
ly which came

now a^- New-
below Tivoli.
Dg school pre-
,pal) Seminary
i by Mr. John

I ■

'i H

^.1.

LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

A little above Tivoli, Clermont, the former residence of
Robert 11. Livingston, the first Cliancellor of the State of
New- York, may be seen at Maiden on tlio opposite side of
tho river. Besides the eminent public services of the
Chaicellor, his fame is connected with that of Kobert
Fulton in the introduction of steam navigation. It will
be remembered that the Hudson River boasts tho honor
of having borne upon its bosom the first successful steam-
boat in the world, and it is at this point that we most fitly
recall that interesting chapter. Livingston furnished Ful-
ton tlie means to carry on his experiments, and the
first successful steamboat trip was made by the Clermont
(named in honor of Livingston's residence) in the autumn
of 1807. She reached Albany in 32 hours from New- York
on this first trip ; and thus navigation by steam, which
had previously been considered a wild and chimerical pro-
ject, became an established fact. Chancellor Livingston
died in 1813.

Eleven miles north of Tivoli is Catskill Station, where
passengers on the railway take ferry for Catskill. The
portion of the river included in this region will be found
fully described under the title, The Catskill Mountains.

The city of Hudson, fourth and last chief station on the
railway, is 1^5 miles from New- York City. It is an im-
portant railway point, being the western terminus of the
Hudson and Boston Railway, which connects Boston with
this point by the Western road to Chatham, about 20 miles.
On the other side of the river, also, the "Athens cut oft*"
is a new extension of the New- York Central Railway, by
which the Castleton Bar in the river, as well as some of
the distance between Hudson and Albany is avoided, going
direct to Schenectady. There is little or nothing of inte-
rest to the tourist by the river bank here; the shores,

1/ if

LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS

I .

(except at tlio Catskilla) have lost tlicir bol(lnc5S!^, and aro
henceforth generally low and uninteresting. Hy taking
the cars for Canaan, however, on the Hudson and Boston
road, the tourist will, in little over an hour, be set down at
the railway station, whence carriages will convey him to Co-
lumbia Hall, at the famous Lebanon Springs, and Shaker
village. (See article entitled Lebanon SrHiNOs.)

Coxsackie Station deserves notice as a notable shad-fish-
ing place. The shad aro the most important fish of the
Hudson, and caught in such immense numbers as to make
them cheap dishes for the poor man's table. They enter
the Hudson in immense numbers toward the close of
March or the beginning of April, and ascend to the head
of tide-water to spawn. It is while on their passage up
that the greater number and best-conditioned are caught,
several hundred being sometimes taken in a single " catch."
They generally descend the river at the close of May, when
they are called " back shad," and are so lean and almost
worthless, that " thin as a June shad " is a common epithet
applied to lean persons. The sturgeon is also caught on
the Hudson in large numbers at most of the fishing sta-
tions. The most important of these are in the vicinity of
Hyde Park, and Low Point, near Poughkeepsie. These
fish are sold in such quantities in Albany that they have
been called, in derision, " Albany beef." They vary in size
from 2 to 8 feet long, and in weight from 100 to 450
pounds. The catch commences in April and continues
until the latter end of August. The flesh is used for food
by some, and the oil that is extracted is considered equal
to the best sperm as an illuminator. The tourist may often
see them leaping several feet from the water when chasing
some smaller fish. Bass and herring are also caught in
almost every part of the river.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

, and aro
3y taking
nd Boston
»t down at
liiin to Co-
ld Shaker

IS.)

3 shad-fisli-
fisli of the
as to make
They enter
e close of
;o the head
passage up
are caught,
rle " catch."
May, when
and almost
on epithet
caught on
fishing sta-
vicinity of
,sie. These
|t they have
vary in size
100 to 450
Id continues
ised for food
|dered equal
t may often
|hen chasing
io caught in

Kindorhook, 125 niilcs from New- York, 25 from Troy,
was so named {Kinder' 8 hoeck, " Children's Point ") hecauso
its first settlor had a very numerous progeny. President
Martin Van Buren spent the last years of his life at his
country-seat, 3 miles south, calU^d Lindenwold.

Castleton is the horribilc locus of the river ; the ovcrslaifgh,
as tlio Dutch mariners called the hidden sand-bar, is, at low
tide, an effectual damper on the enthusiasm of the tourist,
as it is provocative of profanity to the unlearned. There
is a bad sand-bar in the river, and the multitudinous efforts
to destroy it have all failed, because the next freshet from
the mountains will always bring down mud and sand
enough to cover up the last excavation. The place is 11
miles below Albany.

The city of Albany, political capital of the State of New-
York, presents an imposing appearance as you approach it
from the south. Standing upon the slope of a hill which
rises from the flats to a height of 220 feet, it has not failed
to give to its finest buildings the full benefit of position.
Among these the traveler will particularly note in his
view the Capitol, the City Hall, and Dudley Observatory.
There is no good view from the city to the river, as most
of the country about this point is very flat and uninterest-
ing. Albany is mainly interesting to a traveler as afford-
ing an example of how political (and nothing else) a centre
of government may become ; but its Dutch history will
also prove very entertaining. The city most nearly ap.
proaches the cities of Holland, in both architecture, nar-
row streets, aristocracy, and even language, of any city on
this continent. The old Dutch families treasure up their
mother tongue with great zeal, the Dutch language having
been until quite a recent date spoken considerably in cer-
tain circles. The name of the city was changed from Bever-

I.AKHS, lUVKliS, AND MOUNTAIXS.

if '

' li

I ,

wyvk to All):iiiy at tlin sanu) tiin(; tliat Nt'W-York took itH
now titlo, (ill plii('(! of Xow-AiiiHterclam,) botli cilicH bcinjj
nniiuid for oiio iiuui, Kiiij? James II., thou Duko of both
York and Albany.

Th(! river abov(3 Albany v/ill liardly interest the touriHt
until he eomes to that portion of it notabh) for its falln and
other featiiren of a mountain brook. The now brid;^(^ at
Troy, nearly a mih? in l(;n(jfth, will attract liis attention, aa
also the Uoman Catholic Provincial Seminary of divinity
for New- York and New-En (rland, on Mount Ida, opposite
Troy; but these are rather points of interest to the busi-
ness travtiler than to the tourist, and wo may decline to
pass under the arch which divides the pfreat river of the
Highlands from the quieter country above.

THE CATSKILLS.

The Catskill Mountain House, which is the central point
for the Catskills, may be reached in 8 to 13 or llj hours
from New- York City, by boat or rail, and stage. By rail
you leave Thirtieth street at 10 A.M., and reach the sta-
tion opposite Catskill at 2.43 P.M., fare $2.35 ; ferry over
the river, and Beach's stage line (10 miles, $4) carries you
up the mountain to the hotel. By steamboat one may
leave the city at 9 a.m. on the Daniel Drew or C. Vib-
bard, foot of Desbrosses street ; at 5 p.m. on the Thomas
(not Mary) Powell or New Champion, Franklin Street pier,
Saturdays, 2 p.m., or by several other lines ; fare gene-
rally, $1 to Catskill. Besides the particular stage lino
referred to, from the point where the steam ferry-boat
lands, carriages and omnibuses take passengers to the
village, half a mile distant, or carry them directly to the
mountains or elsewhere, as they may desire. The hotels

i).)ii itrt

U'in^

)t' l)<)tii

tourist
ills ami
Ul<JCi^ at
itlon, aa i

ill

divinity

O\)l)OiSJt0 1

tlio busi- . ^
'clino to P

'^" -Hi.

ur of tlio ] ]

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'■'" .1

.j.,ii:iUUUiiiiiii

tral point
i;j hours
By rail
tlu5 sta-
'orry over
arrles you
ono may
or C. Vib-
^e Thomas
Street pier,
fare gene-
stage lino
ferry-boat
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ctly to the
The hotels

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&**"/;]

Taghkanic Falls, N. Y.

LAKES,

RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ant! some of tlie larger boarding-houses have carriages, or
stages, which run daily, or oftener, to and from them and
the landing and village, while from other houses carriages
are sent to meet such as are coming to them as boarders,
at times previously agreed upon. Passengers from Bos-
ton reach the Catskills by the Boston and Albany (West-
ern) Railway to Albany, 8 hours, fare $6, and thence by
steamboat or Hudson River Railway to Catskill ; or, leav-
ing the Boston and Albany road at Chatham, 1 hour less,
take Hudson and Boston Rrilway to the river shore at
Hudson, 4 miles north of Catskill ; thence by rail, (Hud-
son River,) steamboat, or rowboat.

The scenery and the traditional history of this region
are alike attractive. We will follow the two together, in
a brief way. At the landing itself the good ship Half
Moon, in the classical days (to Knickerbockers, who are
the aristocrats of the vicinity) of Hendrick Hudson, an-
chored Sept. 20, 1609. The never-forgotten tale of hid-
den treasure, or golden ore, too, coming down fr<^m the
days when Governor Wilhelmus Kieft gathered from these
mountains a scanty store which was lost in the Atlantic,
occurs to the visitor as his foot touches these famous
banks. Before we read? the Half- Way House, scenes of
Revolutionary memories appear, where Indians captured
and carried away several of the pale-faced settlers. Just
beyond the Half- Way House or Catskill Mountain Retreat
of Mr. Bloom, the road divides ; the branch to the right,
leading directly on, past the Dutch church, up the moun-
tain, by the Rip Van Winkle ravine, and the prrandly soli-
tary and sublime wooded road, with its loicy, overhang-
ing cliffs, to the Mountain House. Half a mile or more
before reaching the summit there is an old road on the
left, leading down the mountain, to Palensville, some 3

LAKES, EIYERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

miles south, on whicli is Moses Rock, a cliff 30 feet high
and 80 long, covered with moss, from the base of which
gushes a stream of water, whence the name. A little
higher up, a path on the right leads to the North Moun-
tain, following which, half a mile or more, you come to
an abrupt rock, from the top of which the lakes and the
high mountains to the south can be seen. On the north
side of this rock a fine echo may be heard with four dis-
tinct reverberations. Further on is a precipice, ascended
by a ladder, where is a large cavern, formed of immense
rocks rudely thrown together, and called the Bear's Rock.
' Two miles from the summit the coach stops at Sleepy
Hollow, famous as the reputed site of Rip Van Winkle's
long nap. Here a house of refreshment has recently been
built, known as the Rip Van Winkle House, and kept by
Mr. Ira Saxe.

The painter, Thomas Cole, made this region his home
with an enthusiasm akin to the famed Hermit of Niagara,
and won his first laurels by the painting of the " Cauter-
skill Falls." It was in the present vicinity of our journey
that he caught inspirations from the mountain-views
whicli remain upon the canvas in the " Voyage of Life "
and the unfinished " Cross and the World." Indeed, one
is vividly reminded, just here, of the young pilgrim in
the former series: for after leaving Rip Van Winkle's
" wicked flagon," and coming to a turn in the road where
the Mountain House suddenly appears, seemingly near by,
the traveler may fondly anticipate a speedy dinner ; but
like the stream that seemed to be leading the youth direct
to the temple in the clouds, the road turns and crooks
and climbs, and weariness ensues before mine host appears.

The Mountain House stands upon one of the terraces of
the mountain, 2500 feet above the river, and 1800 above

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

jet higH

A little
h Moun-

como to

and the
\\e nortb.

four dis-

ascended

immense
ar's Rock.

at Sleepy
nWinkle's
gently been
nd kept by

L his home
of Niagara,
le *• Cauter-
our journey
intain-views

,geof Life"
Indeed, one
pilgrim in
an Winkle's
} road where
igly near by,
dinner ; but
youth direct
s and crooks
host appears,
he terraces of
i 1800 above

the apparent plain. From this point every body of note
has written a descriptive article, saving us the necessity.
(For example, see Cooper's Leather-Stocking.) The view in-
cludes the Hudson River with its villages from the High-
lands to Albany, and the mountains of Vermont, Massa-
chusetts, and Connecticut, including in all an area of about
10,000 square miles. The sunrise, and a thunder-storm,
are deemed especial glories ; i:A at rare intervals an ap-
parition like the " Spectre of the Brocken " enlivens a foggy
morning. From the top of the South Mountain, 300 feet
above the hotel, near it, some portions of New- Jersey may
be seen, in addition to the three other States visible from
this and other points. The North Mountain vie\v, higher
still, adds but little more. The highest summits are
Round Top and High Peak, 3800 feet above the sea.

The Clove is a remarkable ravine 5 miles long. Brack-
et's Hotel, in the depths of the woods here, is a very popu-
lar resort for artists and sportsmen. The Two Lakes,
North and South, are a short distance only from the Moun-
tain House, and on the direct road to the Cauterskill Falls.
These falls are 2 miles west from the house, reached by
stage, or boat on the lake. The Laurel House, Mr. Schutt
proprietor, stands near, where guides may be obtained.
To see the falls to the best advantage, the visitor should
redcend the winding stairs leading from the platform of
! je hotel, and spend an hour or two in exploring the
gorje and glen below. The descent of the first cascade
is 180 feet, and of the second 80 feet ; below these is an-
other (the Bastion) fall of 40 feet. One thing which im-
presses the visitor as rather comical, is that the powers
that be dam the waters, and upon the descent of a party
to the foot of the second fall, the man at the house above
very obligingly (after the payment of 25 cents each from

It""«»*

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

the party) lets the water on, and the effect is surprisingly
beautiful, well paying for the fatigue of the descent and
ascent. The Cauterskill has a devious and rapid course of
8 miles to the Catskill, near the village of Palensville.

Fawn's Leap, or Dog Hole, is a very attractive fall of 30
feet, on a tributary to the main stream, 200 or 300 yards
below High Rocks. It is a perpendicular leap of some 30
feet, and the stream, here extremely narrowed by the
rocky banks, rushes over an immense concave ledge into
a caldron from which a fish could scarcely emerge. Not
very far from it are Haines's Falls, a favorite resort of the
artists. At the Haines House one pays the usual fee to
enjoy the scene. The fall has two leaps, the first of 150
feet, and the second of 80, with a third one below of 60
feet, and others still, so that in less than one fourth of a
mile the stream falls 475 feet. The water at the two
upper falls breaks up into snowy masses.

A correspondent of i\ie I^ew-York Evening Gazette
added the following valuable information to the common
stock last summer :

" We drove down from the crest of the great turnpike
from Catskill to Delhi, one of the most frequented of the
great routes of travel before the days of ra'ilways, and
still a well-traveled road, with its daily stage and its daily
mail, into Durham, where we heard there were some
beautiful falls. But little did we imagine what was in
store for us. Landing at a quiet little farm-house, whose
owner kindly volunteered to pilot us, we struck into the
ro.eadow, and then into a tempting i^ lackberry patch, till
we reached the edge of a steep cliff. Ijowering ourselves
down as best we could, we found a rocky glen over whose
upper wall the stream came leaping in a perpendicular
Tall of 50 or 60 feet into a basin, from which, after recov-

f.i

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

t and
rse of
lie.

Iof30
yards
Dine 30
by the
ge into
3. Not
t of the
1 fee to
t of 150
»w of 60
rtli of a
the two

turnpike
ed of the
rays, and
L its daily
ere some
it was in
se, whose
t into the
patch, till
ourselves
ver whose
pendicular
fter recov-

ering its strength, it dashed over another precipice of
nearly equal height. For picturesque beauty, our host
pronounced it superior to the Haines Falls, well known to
the visitors of the Mountain House, though these are yet
almost unknown to the general public. In fact, our host,
though a life-long resident of these parts, had nevc^*
visited them before, and the * Dominie of the Catskills *
has never recorded them in his book."

THE ERIE BAILV^AT.

Every body knows where the Erie Railway is, where it
begins and ends, and what its attractions, facilities, and
prices are, in general. It will be the purpose of this ar-
ticle to point out to the tourist the chief points of interest,
where he may look from the windows or delay his journey
a little, to edification physical and aesthetic.

Starting from New- York City at 8 A.M., to reach Buffalo
by midnight, we have the best time for observing the early
glories of the route. The depot on New- York Island is at-
tractive beyond the usual rule; but we speedily plunge
into the Bergen Tunnel, and for three minutes remain obli-
vious of aught but noise and terrors. The tunnel is caused
by a rocky ridge which runs parallel to the Hudson River,
and cuts off from it the Bergen Heights, and the salt
marshes beyond, which are watered by the river Hacken-
sack. Further up the Hudson, this ridge appears as the
well-known Palisades, visible from the Hudson River Rail-
way. As soon as we have passed the meadows, we begin
to observe the suburban residences of exiled tax-payers
from New- York, dotting and beautifying the landscape
for nearly 100 miles in this as in all other directions from
the city. At Boiling Spring several private building-parks

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

are rapidly becoming occupied ; a spring which bubbles
out of a ridge gives name to the place. Passaic Falls, at
Paterson, 50 feet, are notable for their picturesque banks.
The city of Paterson, one of the most beautiful on the road,
owes its foundation to Alexander Hamilton, 1791, in the
cotton interest. The Ramapo Valley, about 30 miles out,
2 miles from the town, is famous for Revolutionary me-
mories of Washington, and fine natural scenery. Fore-
most is the Torn — the jutting out or shoulder of the Ra
mapo Gap. On the right a group of beeches overshadows
the stream of the Ramapo, while on the left rises a knoll,
capped by a cottage covered mth vines ; and immediately
opposite and in the centre "swells from the vale" the
steepled peak of the Torn, from which a very extensive
view, embracing even the harbor of New- York, may be
had for the climbing ; and it is said that Washington often
ascended there to watch the movements of the British fleet.
At a distance of 1 mile to the west of the railway, at the
junction of the Sterling Railway, is the beautiful Potague
Lake, nestled among the hills, about 500 feet above the
valley. From this point a commanding view is obtained
of the surrounding mountains and the winding valley of
the Ramapo.

Turner's has the reputation of being the most picturesque
station on this portion of the road. Looking toward the
east, the Ramapo Valley appears ; a beautiful cultivated
hill-country on the north ; to the west, farms, meadows,
woods, delight the eye. The lover of fine scenery should
ascend the hill north of the station, and from its summit
view the country in every direction, having a charming
view of the Mountain Gap, with its humble farm-houses
and rural church, while beyond are seen the silvery surface
of the Hudson, the town of Fishkill on the mountain slope,

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

bubbles

Falls, at

banks.

tlie road,

1, in tlie

liles out,

mary me-

y. Fore-

)f tbe Ra

iisliadows

3S a knoll,

imediately

vale" tlie
extensive

k, may be

igton often

,ritisb fleet.

^ay, at the

ul Potague

above the

Ja obtained

g valley of

picturesque
toward tbe
cultivated
meadows,
nery sliould

its summit
a charming

farm-houses
Ivery surface

mtain slope,

%nd the spires of Newburg. Turner's is surrounded in
every direction with lakes of great attractiveness, llum-
aey's Lake, 2 miles east, has a surface of 100 acres of water,
with fine fishing of pickerel, perch, etc. ; Round Lake, 3
miles south-west, 200 acres ; Little Long Lake, 3^ miles
west, 1 mile long and ^ mile \/ide ; Mount Baslia Lake, 3
miles west, 800 acres, with splendid fishing of pickerel and
perch ; Truxedo Lake, 6 miles south-west, is 1^ mile long
and ^ mile wide ; Slaughter's Lake, to the east, is 1| mile
long and 1 mile wide.

The Orange Hotel, part of which is the depot of the rail-
way at this point, is an excellent house, accommodating
150 guests. Terms, $3 per day, or $12 per week.

Monroe is situated in the midst of what may be termed
the lake region of Orange county. Here, within a circuit
of 10 miles, are many fresh-water lakes from 1 to 9 miles
in extent — Mount Basha, Truxedo, and Greenwood. Green-
wood Lake is distant only 10 miles from Monroe, and dur-
ing the summer season has a convenient communication
by stage, occupying only 2 1 ours' time in riding. It is a
great summer resort on account of its beautiful and pic-
turesque scenery, its celebrated fishing, and its salubrious
atmosphere. The Windermier House, with its grounds
embracing 400 acres, is the principal resort for visitors and
families from New- York, who remain as permanent boarders
during t e season. The visitor should ascend the moun-
tain and enjoy its fine prospects.

Wo now pass rapidly Greycourt, where a good view of
Sugar Loaf Mountain appears, and where the artists Crop-
• sey and Beekman reside ; the Newburg Branch diverges
[here, upon which is the homestead of the Clinton family,
near Washingtonvllle, where Governor De Witt Clinton
[was brought up, and perhaps born. Goshen, coming next,

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Llit

18 located in the centre of the great Wallkill Valley. Iti
is surrounded by a country of much fruitfulness and
beauty, presenting natural attractions and appearances
superior to those of the famed New- York Central Park.
The country round about for miles is gently undulating.
Here is produced the famed Goshen butter, cheese, cream,
and the even more famous Orange county milk. The former
President of the Erie, Mr. Berdell, and Mr. D. H. Haight,
proprietor of the St. Nicholas Hotel, New- York City, have
elegant residences here. The trout-fishing streams of Sul-
livan and Ulster may be reached in a few hours' time from
Goshen, via the Montgomery and Erie road, and by stage
to Ellenville, one of the most sequestered and beautiful
towns within the bounds of the Blue Ridge. Sam's Point,
Montgomery, and Walden, and other interesting localities
in the vicinity, are equally accessible by the same route.
Greenwood Lake, Mount Basha Lake, the Wallkill, Otter-
kill, Pochuck Creek and tributaries, the Warwick Wood-
lands, the Great Wild Meadows, the Big Spring in the
trackless Cedar Swamp, which forms a natural cover, and
where haunt plover, woodcock, and quail, are all located
" within hailing distance" of Goshen.

Middletown, 67 miles out, is a pretty enough town, but
not of special interest for us. A stage here connects with
the 8 A.M. train from New- York for Monticello. This is a
pleasant village, county seat of Sullivan, of some 1200
inhabitants, situated on a hill, and of considerable attrac-
tions. Hotels : Monticello, R. B. Townsend ; and Mansion,
Solomon W. Roger; the latter 1 mile out. About 1
mile from the village, on the borders of Pleasant Lake,
Mr. J. E. Quinlan has fitted up a house where excellent
board can be had for families at $8 to $10 per week each
person. There is also some trout fishing in the vicinity of
Monticello.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

alley. I^
IneBS and
)pearances
tral Park,
undulating,
ese, cream,
The former
H. Haiglit,
L City, have
earns of Sill-
s' time from
aid by stage
ad beautiful
Sam's Point,
ing localities
3 same route.
,allkill, Otter-
,rwick Wood-
;pring in ^^^
:al cover, and
re all located

Otisville is the last of the milk-depots, and is on the
eastern side of the Shawangunk Ridge, one of the greatest
obstacles which were overcome in building the Erie Rail-
way. A long tunnel through the ridge was first pro-
posed, but after thorough examination the present plan
was adopted. Passing through a long and heavy rock-
cut, the summit is passed about 2 miles beyond Otis-
ville, and then the valley below is reached by gradually
descending the steep and rugged slope of the Shawan-
gunk Mountain, in a southerly direction, on a grade
of about 45 feet to a mile. The character of the
scenery changes wonderfully after leaving Otisville. We
pass alternately through gloomy cuts, and then over side-
hill embankments, commanding magnificent views of the
romantic valley of the Neversink, traversed by the Dela-
ware and Hudson Canal, and dotted with farm-houses and
villages.

Five miles beyond Otisville are located the Erie and
Wallkill Lead Mines, owned mostly by English capitalists,
who commenced work on them several years ago, and
keep silently at it yet. The lead is fully 85 per cent pure
metal, and is shipped to England. Sufficient silver is
found in the ore to pay the entire expenses of transporta-
tion and mining. The whole of the western side of the
mountain is said to be owned by three brothers, from
whom land can be leased, but not bought. Eight miles
beyond Otisville is Shin Hollow Switch. Here there is a
deep cut through a soft soil three fourths of a mile in
length and 30 feet deep. This portion of the road is of
the most oppressive loneliness, for the valley is completely
shut out of sight, soon, however, to reappear in heightened
beauty and interest, after passing the great rock-cutting
just two miles ahead of us. The approach to this last

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

formidable barrier in the descent of the mountain is very
fine. We reacli it by a high curved embankment, and
see on eacli side of us a steep wall of slate rock, 50 feet in
height and 2500 feet in length. And now let the traveler
place himself on the right side of the train, (going west-
ward,) to catch the noble prospect prepared for him ou
emerging from this dark pass. At its very portal the
road makes a sudden curve southward, and from the pre-
cipitous mountain side, along the edge of which we de-
scend, he beholds the valley of Neversink, its western
verge bordered by a chain of mountains, at the foot of
which gleams the village of Port Jervis, and its level
fields losing themselves far in the south, where rolls the
Delaware River ; beyond which, again, the town of Mil-
ford, Pa., may be seen in the misty horizon.

At the junction of the Neversink River with the Dela-
ware, is the corner boundary between New- York, New-
Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Port Jervis is a short distance
north of this place, and is the terminal station of the
eastern division of the railway. It is named after John
B. Jervis, the engineer of the Delaware and Hudson Canal.
This canal is one of the great avenues by which the an-
thracite coal of Pennsylvania reaches tide-water, and it
comes down the valley of the Neversink to the Delaware
at this point. Port Jervis is a pleasant place of summer
resort for people who are fond of beautiful scenery. Three
miles beyond, we cross the Delaware River over a wooden
bridge 800 feet in length. For 26 miles after we shall
be in the State of Pennsylvania. The company pays
to the Quaker State the annual sum of $10,000 for the
privilege of running their road on this side of the river,
but are thereby exempted from further taxation.

At Port Jervis we enter upon the second division of the

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS,

railway, extending 104 i>iilc8 to SuMquelianna ; near Slio-
hola tlio road lies on the mountain side, several feet above
the river, along a mighty gallery, supported by grand
natural abutments of jagged rock. Three miles of this
section cost the company $300,000. The region about
Narrowsburg is rendered famous in Cooper's Last of the
Mohicans; but the scenery is not striking. At Deposit
we leave the Delaware River. Summit, 8 miles further, is
1360 feet above the level of the sea. Deposit being 997
feet above, a difference of 309 feet in 8 miles. It is a
wild and desolate place. From this point the road
descends on a grade of 60 feet per mile for about 8
miles. As the train descends into the valley, there seems
no promise of the wonders which are awaiting us; but
they come suddenly, and, before we are aware, we are tra-
versing the famous Cascade Bridge, a solitary arch, 250
feet wide, sprung over a dark ravine of 184 feet in depth.
No adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty of the scene
can be had from the cars. It will richly repay the
traveler to come to a full stop and explore the fastnesses
of this vicinity.

We now for the first time behold the Susquehanna
River, a point ranking high in the famous places on the
road, and adding to the reasons for delay. The Starucca
Viaduct, also, is here, a little over the State line in Penn-
sylvania. It is 1200 feet in length, 110 feet high, and has
18 arches, each of 50 feet span ; the whole cost $320,000.
A fine painting by Cropsey, representing this great bridge
and the valley beneath it, will be remembered as one of
the prizes in the notorious Crosby Opera House lottery.
A little beyond the viaduct, and just this side (New- York)
of Susquehanna Station, the road passes over the Canne-
wacta Creek and village of Lanesborough, on a trestle-
bridge 450 feet long and 70 feet high.

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

Kirkwood, 200 miles from Now- York, in Broomo county,
must bo romombered as the birthplace of Joe Smith, the
Mormon.

Binghamton is a beautiful and healthful city, having a
fine view of the river and neighboring country from the
hill whereon stands the elegant State Inebriate Asylum of
New- York. Owego is notable for similar beauties of land-
scape ; and Qlenmary, once the homo of N. P. Willis,
where he wrote his Letters from under a Bridge, on the
Owego creek.

Elmira is a town of much beauty, vhich is more than
can be said of Corning, the seat of a State arsenal. The
latter is the point at which diverges the Buffalo Branch.

Hornellsville, 41 miles from Corning, 332 from New-
York, is the third eating-station from the metropolis, and
has perhaps the second best saloon in the State. Passen-
gers by the night express breakfast here.

Beyond this, the main road becomes for the most part
quite uninteresting, the country sparsely settled, wild,
and desolate. The valley of the Genesee commences just
beyond Tip Top Summit, 345 miles out, the highest grade
on the road being 1700 feet above tide level. We pass
over the Alleghany watershed, or ridge, at Cuba, 378
miles out, and leave the Genesee waters to flow to the At-
lantic via the Saint Lawrence, while the Alleghany River,
whose course we now pursue, flows down by way of the
Ohio and Mississippi to the lower Atlantic, through
Gulf of Mexico. From Olean we enter the lands of lue
Indian Reservation, 30 miles long by a half-mile on each
side the river ; the Senecas own it.

Salamanca is interesting or important to the tourist only
in view of its awful desolateness, reminding one vividly
of Dickens's " Eden," in Martin Chiczzlewit ; and its

LAKES, KIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

) county,
uith, tUe

having a
from tUo
.syluin of
8 of land-
>. Willis,
ge, on tlie

more than
mal. The
> Branch.
Tom New-
•opolis, and
,. Passen-

touristonly

one vividly

Ut; and its

hrmix tho eastorn torminus of tho Atlantic and Groat
WcHtorn Railway. Tho land, low, wet, stumpy, belongs
to tho " poor Indian." Dunkirk, 400 miles from New-
York, brings us, glad enough, to Lake Erie.

NORTH-WESTERN DIVISION.

"^n the branch of the Erie Railway diverging from tho
uunk in a north-westerly direction to Attica and Buffalo,
tliere are few points of interest ; but one of them, particu-
larly, deserves special mention.

Portage, 363 miles from New- York, 01 from Buffalo, is a
village of 1519 inhabitants, located on the Genesee Valley
Canal and the Genesee River. In its immediate vicinity
are the Portage Falls, three in number, each of which is
remarkable for its beauty and grandeur. Tho upper, or
Horseshoe Falls, 70 feet high, are about three quarters of a
mile below the village. The Middle Falls are about ono
quarter of a mile further down the river. Here the water
pours in an unbroken sheet into a chasm 110 feet below,
which is bounded by perpendicular ledges. A cave, called
the Devil's Oven, has been worn into the rocks on the west
bank, near the bottom of the falls. In low water 100 per-
sons can be seated in it ; but when the river is high, it is
filled with water. Two miles below th^ Middle Falls, be-
fore reaching the third, the river pursues a winding course
between perpendicular walls, across which a man might al-
most leap, then descends in a succession of rocky steps almost
as regular as a staircase,' dives under a shelving rock, and
I descends into a narrow pass about 15 feet wide. Descend-
ing perpendicularly for 20 feet, it strikes against the base
of high rocks, whirls back, and, turning nearly at right
angles, falls into a deep pool overhung with shelving

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

.;li,

rocks. Sugar Loaf, an isolated mass of rock, 15 feet in di-
ameter and 100 feet high, rises from the river-bed at a
bend in its course and receives nearly the whole force of
the rushing waters. These falls are accessible only from
the west side. The perpendicular bank on the west of the
river is 380 feet high at one point. The bridge by which
the railway crosses the river is the largest wooden railway
bridge in the world, built at a cost of $175,000, and stand-
ing upon 13 strong stone piers set in the bed of the river,
and rising sufficiently above high-water mark to be secure
against freshets. Above these piers a timber trestle-work
rises 234 feet, on the top of which the track of the road is
laid. The bridge is 800 feet long, and is so constructed
that any timber in the whole structure can be removed
and replaced at pleasure. The first and second falls can
be seen from the bridge, and present a grand appearance
as they are seen in the distance dashing over the rocks and
plunging into the black basin. In some places the rocks
of the ravine are 300 feet high, and small streams, trick-
ling over the top of this wall, dissolve into blue mist long
before they reach the bottom. The Genesee Valley Canal
crosses the river on an aqueduct just above the bridge,
then, running parallel with the river, passes under the
railway bridge on the high bluflf of rocks forming the east
bank of the river. The perforations for a tunnel which
was commenced and then abandoned, may be seen in dri-
\ing from the hotel to the bottom of the ravine. Alto-
gether this place will well repay the yipitor who has suf
ficient leisure for a stay of some days. The view from be-
low is quite necessary to one who would enjoy the full
grandeur of the scene. Portageville, the nearest village,
is on the west side of the river, 1| miles south of the sta-
tion, in the township of Genesee Falls, Wyoming county,

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

3ed at a

5 force of

»nly from

est of tlie

t)y which

n railway

ind Btand-

the river,

) he secure

:estle-work

the road is

constructed

3e removed

ad falls can

appearance

le rocks and

,es the rocks

•eams» trick-
lie mist long
alley Canal
the hridge,
5S under the
,ing the east
Lunel which

|e seen in dri- ,
ravine. Alto-
who has sut
iew from he-
.njoy the full
rarest village,
ith of the sta-
,niing county,

the river here forming the boundary between the two coun-
ties. There is a large and good hotel near the station,
and another, the Ingham House, in Portageville. Stages
run from the hotel to the bridge.

Gainesville, 368 miles, is a place of some interest. Good
building-stone is quarried in the vicinity ; and at Gaines-
ville Creek, 4 milea from the station, a young ladies' semi-
nary, accommodating 250 pupils, trains up scholars in the
famous Mount Holyoke manner. To the north-east of
Gainesville Station is Silver Lake, 3 miles long, the scene
of action of the " Kraken," or monster serpent, whose al-
leged performances created so much excitement in 1855.

Warsaw, 48 miles from Buffalo, is the county-seat of
Wyoming county. The village is about a mile east of the
station, on Oatka Creek, in a deep valley, on the west slope
of which the railway passes through the township at a
considerable elevation. Stages run daily to Arcade, in the
south-western corner of the county, 25 miles, and to Bata
via, the county-seat of Genesee. On the Arcade stage-route
is Wethersfield Springs, 6 miles from Warsaw, a place
of some importance, and the seat of the " Doolittle Insti-
tute," founded and endowed by Ormus Doolittle, Esq. It
was the early home of the Hon. James R. Doolittle, of
Wisconsin.

Attica is on Tonawanda Creek, 392 miles from New-
York. The Buffalo Division of the Erie Railway, which
diverges from the main line at Corning, and passes through
Avon and Bata via, here reunites with the North-western
I Division, forming a single line from this point to Buffalo.
[A branch of the New- York Central Railway extends from
[here to Batavia.

The tourist's interest subsides as he approaches a city,
md it is only as an individual member of some grade in

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Hociety that he will, generally, travel through the stont>.
imved streets. Buffalo, to one seeking rural pleasure,
therefore, will cause but little delay. The principal things
to see are the Mercantile Library rooms, St. Joseph's (Ro-
man Catholic) Cathedral — the most imposing in the State,
far superior to St. Patrick's in New- York — the Episcopal
church of St. Paul, with its chime of bells ; the grain eleva-
tors at the water's edge, etc. Other objects of interest will
be found, according to each visitor's idiosyncrasies. The
chief hotels are the Mansion, corner of Exchange street,
find the Tiffl, farther out, both on Main (the principal)
street. The city was founded by the Holland Land Com-
pany in 1801 ; burned by the British, 1814 ; every house
was destroyed but one, which is still standing near the
corner of Mohawk and Main streets. In 1815, buildings
were again erected, and in 1825, Congress voted $80,000
for the sufferers. The principal influence in producing
the rapid growth of the city was exerted by the construc-
tion of the Erie Canal, completed in October, 1825, which
has ts western terminus here. Next to New- York City,
Buffalo is the most important commercial city in the State.
The French, who were its first visitors, named it " Buffle " —
English, Buffalo — from the wild oxen which they saw in
great droves around. The plan upon which Joseph Elli-
cott (who assisted his brother Andrew in laying out Wash-
ington City) laid out the streets of Buffalo, is worth noticing.
The streets are wide and straight, and generally cross each
other at right angles. A few of the side streets, however, en-
ter Main street at an angle of 45°. These latter streets, cross-
ing the others at their points of intersection, form a large
number of places or squares, give variety to the outlines of
the city, and destroy the monotony which would have been
produced by a rigid adherence to a rectangular plan.

!^«;

k '^

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

STATIONS ON OTHER DIVISIONS.

Blood's, 331 miles from New- York, 40 from Corning,
near the northern boundary of Steuben county, on the
Corning, Avon, and Rochester Division, is an important
station, from its connection with the Canandaigua Lake
route. A daily line of stages runs to Naples, at the head
of the lake, and a steamer plies daily between the latter
place and Canandaigua.

For Avon Springs, see article on Mineral Springs op
New-York.

Conesus, 348 miles, lies between Hemlock and Conesus
Lakes, two beautiful sheets of water. Marrowback Hills,
in the eastern part, near Hemlock Lake, rise to about 1200
feet above it. Conesus is widely known as the " Round-
Pie Station," from the excellent small round pies long kept
for sale at the lunch-room of the station-house.

At Livonia, 4 miles further, there is an elm-tree which
will interest any admirer of the now destroyed " Pittsfield
Elm " in Massachusetts. That venerable tree was 128 feet
in height, and for 90 feet was bare of branches. The town
is not of special interest. ^

Caledonia, on th^ Avon and Butfalo branch, 59 miles
from the latter place, is in the northern part of the most
northern township of Livingston county. Settlement made
in 1797 ; has 650 inhabitants. At this place, §■ of a mile
from the station, is a celebrated spring, remarkable alike
for the volume and purity of its waters, and for the great
supply of trout originally abounding there, and still kept
up by artificial means. The spring is now the property of
the veteran sportsman, Seth Green.

At Leroy, 52 miles from Buffalo, 381 from New- York, is
situated Ingham University, a young ladies' college, for-

' ST

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

merly presided over by the Rev. Dr. S. H. Cox, father of
Bishop Cox of the Episcopal Diocese in Western New- York,
and now under the nominal charge of the Rev. Dr. S. D.
Burchard. In the eastern part, south of the creek, is an
extensive tract of oak openings, covered thickly with stone,
and hard to cultivate.

Batavia, Genesee county, 396 miles from New- York, 37
from Buffalo, was settled in the early part of the century.
Five branches of the Central Railway converge here — from
Albany by Rochester, from Albany by Canandaigua, from
Buffalo, from Niagara Palls and Canada, and from Attica.
The village has a population of 3000. It was here that
the first meeting to advocate the construction of the Erie
Canal was held in 1809. The war of 1813 put an end to
the agitation of the subject, but it was renewed after peace
was proclaimed. The abduction of Morgan, the alleged be-
trayer of the secrets of Freemasonry, took place here. He
came to Batavia to write and print his work. He made no se-
cret of this work, and soon an excitement was raised, during
which, under a pretense of taking him to Canandaigua for
trial for money loaned him, conspirators carried him off, no
one knew whither until long after. The most probable con-
clusion was, that the Niagara River or Lake Erie was made
his grave. The publication went on under one Miller. A
civil war arose, and men armed with clubs met to demolish
the office ; but a cannon in the hands of the citizens kept
them off until the book was published, when violence ceased.

For Oak Orchard Acid Springs, see article on Mineral
Springs of New- York.

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

THE ADIRONDACK EEGION.

The wilderness of Northern New York, commonly
spoken of as the "Adirondack Region," is a plateau rang-
ing from 1500 to 1800 feet above tide. It is 100 miles in
diameter. On the north and east it approaches within
30 or 40 miles of the Canada line and Lake Champlain ;
on the south, within 15 or 20 miles of the Mohawk River,
and on the west, within the same distance of Black River.
It embraces nearly the whole of Essex, Warren, and
Hamilton counties, the south-west portion of Clinton, the
south half of Franklin, the south-eastern third of St. Law-
rence, the eastern third of Lewis, and the northern half of
Herkimer. Different portions of it are known under differ-
ent names. The northern portion is called the Chateaugay
Woods ; the St. Regis Woods lie next below ; then comes
the Saranac Region ; then that of Racket Lake ; to the east
extend the Adirondacks ; and below, south and south-west-
erly, are the Lake Pleasant Region, and John Brown's
Tract.

We may here note, from Mr. Street's valuable Woods
and Waters, (to which, indeed, we are mainly indebted
for the facts in this article,) some of the principal routes
into the wilderness from Eastern, Southern, and Western
New- York.

1. Into the Chateaugay Woods. — 1. From Platts-
burgh to Dannemora State Prison, and Chazy Lake, 35 or
30 miles, over a road.

2. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and
Chateaugay Lakes.

II. Into the Saranac Region. — 3. By steamboat to
Port Kent, (or steamboat or railway to Burlington opposite,)
on Lake Champlain. Thence by post-coach to Keeseville

V/- ■' »■'■•■

^ I

iiii

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

(Essex county) 4 miles. From Keeseville 40 miles to
Baker's Saranac Lake House, 2 miles short of the Lower
Saranac Lake ; or to Martin's, on the bank of the Lower
Saranac ; or to Bartlett's, between Round Lake and Upper
Saranac Lake, 13 miles from Martin's.

The Keeseville road is a good, traveled road, planked
from Keeseville to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keese-
ville.

At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 miles from Keese-
ville, the visitor can turn off into a road, through the village
of Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown road, about 12
miles from Baker's. This road leads through the famous
Whiteface, or Wilmington Notch.

4. By steamboat to Westport on Lake Champlain.
Thence to Elizabethtown, and thence to Baker's, or Mar-
tin's, or Bartlett's. This route is about the dame distance
as the Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so
good.

III. Into the Adirondack, Racket, and Hudson
River Regions. — 5. From Crown Point, on Lake Cham-
plain, to Root's, about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adi-
rondack Lower Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake,
20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to Long Lake usually
once a week during the summer.

From the Lower Works to Adirondack Village or Upper
Works, by water, (through Lake Sanford,) 10 or 12 miles ;
by road, ditto.

From the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus, (Blount
Marcy,) 4 miles, and 3 miles to top.

From the Upper Works to the famous Indian Pass, (the
most majestic natural wonder, next to Niagara, in the
State,) 4 miles.

From the Indian Pass to Scott's, on the Elizabethtown

idk

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

rpper
dies ;

^[ount

|is, (tlie
In the

Ltown

road, (through the woods, with scarcely a path,) 7 miles ;
thence to Baker's, (over a road,) 14 miles.

0. From Glenn's Falls to Root's, over a good road, 30
miles, namely :

From Glenn's Falls to Lake George, 9 miles ; thence to
Warrensburgh, 6 miles ; thence to Chester, 8 or 10 miles ;
thence to Pottersville, 6 or 8 miles ; thence to Root's, and
thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or the Upper Works ;
or, from Pottersville to the Boreas River, 15 miles.

7. From Carthage, in Jefferson county (by way of the
Beach road) to Long Lake, 40 or 50 miles ; thence to Pen-
dleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson River Bridge, about 5
miles ; thence to the Lower Works, about 5 miles. Can
drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower
Works.

8. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake George ;
thence to Johnsburgh ; thence to North Creek ; thence to
Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake, (the middle of the three Blue
Mountain Lakes.) From North Creek to Eagle Lake, 20
miles.

9. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant
and Piseco. ^

IV. Into the John Brown Tract Region. — 10. From
Utica by railway to Booneville ; thence to Lyonsdale and
Port Leyden, 7 miles by stage road ; thence to Deacon
Abby's place, S^- miles, over a good road ; thence to
Arnold's, (over rather a poor road, although passable by
wagon,) 14 miles.

The eastern portion of the plateau is exceedingly moun-
tainous. Here lies the Adirondack range, or group, tho
most northerly in the State, extending in a general north-
east direction from Little Falls, on the Mohawk River, to
Cape Trembleau at Lake Champlain. This range presents

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

t Iff'

the conical summits cloven into sharp gray peaks peculiar
to its hypersthene formation, and attains in some of its
peaks more than the height of one mile — the limit of eter-
nal snow.

These i^eaks are Tahawus or Mount Marcy, (which is the
central and talbst, 5467 feet high,) Mount Mclntyre,
Mount Saint Anthony, (corrupted to Sanantoni,) and Mount
Colden ; they are all generally isolated, sloping some-
what moderately toward the north, but precipitous at the
south. Otlier summits rise north, south, and west, some
equal in height to those named (except Tahawus) and
others but little inferior — Dix's Peak, Nipple Top, Blue
Mountain, Mount Seward, (a cluster of peaks,) Cove Hill,
Moose Mountain, Mackenzie's Pond Mountain, and White-
face. The last is the most northern of all the high crests
of the wilderness, and hardly inferior in elevation to Taha-
wus, being just about one mile high, (5200 feet.) From its
summit 30 lakes may be seen. The region lying around
the south base of Mount Seward was called by the Indians
Cough-sa-ra-geh, or the " Dismal Wilderness."

In the middle portion of the plateau the mountains aro
generally rounded, and, like most of those mentioned
above, waving from base to top with forest. The western
portion is pleasantly varied by hill and plain. One great
valley shaped like a Y crosses the whole plateau in a
north-east direction. It begins at the junction of Moose
River with the Black River, continues 70 miles to a
point 6 miles south of Upper Saranac Lake, here branch-
ing northerly to Potsdam in Saint Lawrence county, and
north-easterly to Plattsburg on Lake Champlain. A re-
markable chain of lakes and streams extends along this
valley and its north-eastern branch, linking, (with a few
carries, and with the exception of 20 miles of rapids

? :

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ipids

on the lower end of Moose River,) Lake Cliamplain,
through the Saranac River and Lakes, the Racket River,
Long, Forked, Racket Lakes, the Eight Lakes, and Moose
and Black Rivers, with Lake Ontario. The River Saint
Lawrence is linked with this chain by the Racket River
traversing the northern branch of this valley.

11th. From Utica by railway to Boone ville ; thence to
Booth's Mills, 11 miles, over a good wagon road ; thence
to Arnold's by pack-horses, (sent by Arnold to Booth's
Mills,) 14| miles, over a bad road.

12th. From Utica by railway to Alder Creek ; thence by
road to the Reservoir Lakes.

13th. From the village of Prospect (Oneida county, and
reached by railway,) through Herkimer county, to More-
house, in Hamilton county.

14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racket Riv-
er, by railway ; thence to Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence
to foot of the Little Bog at McEwen's, on the Racket River,
12 miles, by private conveyance, over a good road ; thence
by boat, 1| miles, to Bog Falls ; then a short carry on eafit
side of river ; thence to Harris's place, 4^ miles, opposite
the mouth of the Jordan River ; thence 3| miles, by wagon
road, to John Ferry's; thence 3 miles farther on, same
road, to foot of Moose Head Still Water ; thence through
the latter, 6 miles ; thence 9 miles to Racket Pond ; and
thence 5 miles to Big Tupper's Lake.

It should be added here, that two, at least, of these en-
trances to the Adirondacks lie upon routes highly attrac-
tive in themselves to the tourist. The fourth and last,
" into the John Brown Tract region," starts from Booneville,
which is upon the Utica and Black River Railway, 18
miles from the famous Trenton Falls, on the same road.
(See article Trenton Falls.)

1^ - ft!" I^W»»^PW^W"^!"

LAKES, PwlVETlS, AND MOUNTAINS.

i f I'

Tho second entrance is made over the plank-road lead-
ing from Port Kent, on Lake Cliamplain, to Keesoville.
Midway between these two villages occurs tlio Au Sable
Chasm, of late years beginning to bo famous, and this
spring honored witli several truthful sketches in tho Na-
tional Academy of Design. About a mile and a half from
Keesoville, the Au Sable River makes a leap of some
30 feet, into a semi-circular basin of great beauty ; a
mile further down, another precipice, greatly resembling
Niagara in general contour, dismisses the river to a
course 150 feet below, amid the wildest scenery. Fol-
lowing the stream, now rapidly narrowing, deepening,
and foaming, yet further down, we come to the Chasm —
a section fully rivaling in grandeur any thing east of the
Rocky Mountains. At the narrowest point in the river,
where a wedged boulder cramps the channel to a width
of little over 5 feet, a great curiosity is noticed in that
the walls of the river, varying hereabouts from 90 to
125 feet in height, appear on one side inclined and worn,
as though some great torrent had swept over them ; while
the opposite wall stands erect and jagged. Still lower
down, toward the lake, (Champlain,) the walls stand apart
about 50 feet, more than 100 feet high, descending quite
to the water's edge, in a sheer perpendicular line, and
extending this mammoth canal, with occasional widen-
ings, for more than a half-mile. The whole region is
awfully grand, and is attracting multitudes of artists
every year. The tourist, going to the ^oods, will do
well to delay a day at Keeseville, and study this wonderful
chasm. The Au Sable House, at Keeseville, is open ail
summer, and boasts a very superior table and. excellent
rooms. Board, $2 per day ; $8 and upward per week.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Tlio Chasm IIouso is 3 miles from the villain, just by
tlio great fall.

All the wild animals of our northern latitiulo, the pan-
ther, bear, wolf, and wild-cat, are here, with tho moose,
deer, fisher, sable, otter, mink, and muskrat. The mooso
is the rarest of all. The eagle, the partridge, the loon,
the duck, are likewise found ; lake trout swarm in the
broad waters, and speckled trout in the cold, clear spring-
brooks and rapid streams. Ten or twelve years ago, this
wilderness hardly contained a hut or shanty, and was
rarely invaded by visitors. But of late the number of
sportsmen and exi)lorer8 has gradually but greatly in
creased. The trout, however, are as abundant as ever, as
are also the deer ; but the latter have grown more timid,
and are less certainly found. The shout of the loon, too,
now rarely meets the ear. There are no settlements of
any size ; but the edges of the wilderness are thinly in-
habited by hunters and trappers, who pierce its deepest
recesses in their light boats, and act as guides to visitors
in summer.

The centre of the plateau comprises the region of the
Saranac Lakes, the Racket River from Racket Lake to
Perciefield Falls, and a tract around Tupper's Lake. In it
are found all the distinctive features of the plateau — broad
and beautiful expanses of water ; the loveliest river of the
forest ; the prettiest cascades ; one of the highest moun-
tains, commanding the very grandest prospect of all ; and,
save one, the sublimest gorge. The chief and almost the
only home of the moose lies within it ; trout swarm in the
myriad brooks ; and the deer are as plentiful as in any
other spot.

II,

: ills

:ii

— 1

■w&vfvxi 1. AlXXiSt

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY.

A Plkasant Uoutk to tiiic Wiuti-: Mountains and
Canada. — Thc^ best routo from Now- York to the Wliito
Moinitahis jind Quebec is tlinjii^di tbo Connecticut Vulloy.
It is 70 inilcH sliorter than tiny other.

In leaviujUf New-York for .Montreal, tbo tourist who has
no time to spare will tako tbo 12.15 p.m. train, arriving at
Si)ringliel(l at G o'clock. Here you bave balf an hour for
8up])er. From Sprinjo^field to Saint All)anH, sleeping-cars
are run on all nigbt trains, froinnrtbrou^bwitboutcbanofo.
You take breakfast at Saint Albans at G A.M., and arrive at
Montreal at 9.30 A.M. Retnrninj?, you leave Montreal at
3.30 r.M,, tako supper at Saint Albans, breakfast at Spring-
field, and dinner in New- York.

But tbo pleasure tourist will not rusli over tbe ground
like tbis. Ho will take tbe New-IIaven and Hartford boat
at New- York, and enjoy a deligbtful sail upon tbe Sound.
Tbis will allow of leisure for a ramble about Now-IIaven,
or Hartford, or botli, and time can well be spent in tliese
beautiful cities. Tbe New-Haven House in tbe former,
and tbe Allvn House in tbe latter, are tbe best botels,
Tbe true point of departure will be Springfield.

In proceeding to tbo Wbite Mountains, Lake Mempbre-
magog, Quebec, Montreal, Mount Mansfield, or intermedi-
ate points, you will take tbe cars of tbe Connecticut IlivcT
Bailway, in l^pringfield, >n tbo north side of tbe depot.
If you are unacquainted with tbe route, remember that
tbe cars going either north or south, enter and leave iho
Springfield depot at its western end.

Between Springfield and I^ake Mem", ''irtimagog there is
no change of cars. An elegantly furn;sh'^d ladies* car
runs through both ways on the morning trains. Going

tela.

pot.
hat
llie

mi\!^.

• I

Crystal Cascade, White Mountains.

ing

'II

'■■]

LAKES, RIVE US, AXD MOUNTAINS.

north on the train which leaves Springfield at 7.45 a.m.,
you stop about 20 minutes at Bellows Falls, where you
can take dinner at the refreshment-room, or wait until the
arrival of the train at White River Junction at 1.15 p.m.
At this place you have half an hour for dinner, either in
going or returning from the White Mountains. Adjoining
the refreshment-room there is a dining-hall, wliere you
will find a good dinner. At Wells River, 40 miles from
White River Junction, you change cars in going to the
White Mountains. From there to Littleton the distance
by the White Mountains Railway is 20 miles. From Lit-
tleton you proceed by stage to Profile House, 11 miles,
and to Crav/ford House, 24 miles.

The tourist should bear in mind that the Crawford
House is in the White ]>Iountains, and the Profile House
in the Fran^onia Mountains. If you call for a ticket for
the White Mountains, the agent will give you one to the
Crawford House. You will find it to your advantage
to purchase one to the Profile House, as this will save you
13 miles of staging the same day. If you leave White
River Junction at 8.20 A.M., you reach the Profile House at
1, and the Crawford House at 4 p.m. If you leave at 1.45
P.M., (the morning train from Springfield,) you arrive at
the Profile House at 6.30, and at the Crawford House at 9.30.

At Lake Memphremagog, 105 miles from White River
Junction, and 229 from Springfield, the cars stop at the
door of the Memphremagog House, on the shore of the
lake. Leaving Springfield at 7.45 A.M., you arrive there
at 6.30 P.M. The next morning you can leave with Capt.
Fogg on the steamer Mountain Maid, for a trip through
the lake, which is 30 miles in length. You can stop at
tlie Mountain House, 12 miles from the Memphremagog
House, and ascend Owl's Head, which is nearly 3000 fee*

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

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above the lalrp

f^l^ay, at Shorbroolp 1^ ' *" "'« «™nd Trunk

Montreal. '°"'^''' """^ P^'^^'^ thence to Que) ^ or

In going to Mount ]\f-.n»fi 1 1

►summit House. The rpmo,- i ^"^^^ ^ nnles from
■'""Pli-shed on horseback "'" '''' ^^^ -^i^'-nce is a!

«IDES ABOUl. HARTF07„^ .

, «-;<i •• to Tu«b,e Down B;;4T^*'"^ '"''^ '"' -«-
;oad; to Talcott Mountain 9 ^l '""'' ^-^^^ "^^ Albany

f^V* '"''"'• *° Wethe^fieM fir*'- *° ^-'"Hart
4 miles; over Ne win oton Mn . *""• *'' G'astenburv

Hill, to Bioomma, :^:ZZ'Z' '* """'^'- '^ ^-pS

some 7 miles. '* *° Sliipman's at Eocky HiJi,

cWtts on the ContS^l;: *-'^-* '-" ^» Ma^a-
16^6. It « ehiefly noted for ,! i '"^ ^""^ ««'«ed i„

tlie residence of Dr. J « °^ f^P"*' ^a^Pden Park and
*«-•. It hasa,soai.t,'^° i;^' ""^ -«- -^ S
«f a v.sit. The two pr^nci nT b! ■"'"''"'''■ '^''^ -orthy
and State ; the former runnn "'' '*''<'^*^ are Main

ter to the Armory. "'°^ ^''' *e depot, and the ]a "

The Smith & VVes^inr, „• . ,
-<i it is also famo^ for UsT "^ "^^^'^^ « «Pnngfie,d •
f .- wh,-ch there is no bet ST '°*^^' "'^ *^-~:

--'----^the;-:rnrs-^.ad.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

for all tourists throug^i the Connecticut Valley. There
are many beautiful drives about Springfield. A day can
be spent here very pleasantly and profitably. Visitors are
allowed to inspect the operations at the Armory, a mile
from the depot.

Passing Chicopee, and its famous Ames Manufacturing
Works, whence come so many elegant bronzes, you soon
look out upon the wonderful dam at Holyoke, and in a few
minutes more are in the shadows of Mounts Tom and
Holyoke. Arrived at Northampton, there is an abundance
to attract the attention.

Ill

Southampton, Holyoke, and Amiiekst. — Four miles
south-west of Northampton is Easthampton, with its fac-
tories, and Willision Seminary. Six miles south-east is
South-Hadley, famous .'or its Mount Holyoke Seminary,
founded by Mary Lyon. Florence, the little village that
has given the name to a popular sewing-machine, is only
3 miles from Northampton.

But of the surroundings of this lovely town, Amherst
and Mount Holyoke are the most interesting. Amherst is
7 miles east, and is noted for its rare natural scenerv.
Ux)on the crest of one of its hills tower the college build-
ings, whence have gone forth such men as Mr. Beecher,
Dr. Storrs, Dr. Hitchcock, Dr. Huntington, and Governor
Bullock. Back of the town, upon a beautiful eminence,
summer visitors find a comfortable hotel, known as the
Orient House. There are mineral springs adjoining. The
Massachusetts State Agricultural College is located here.

Mount Holyoke is on the east side of the Connecticut,
2 miles from Northampton. It is 1000 feet in height.
Here in 1821 was built the first house erected on any
mountain in New-England. It is a favorite place of resort,

WfBBBIP*"

LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS.

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and during a single season from 15,000 to 20,000 people
visit its summit, coming from netxrly every Northern and
Western State in the Union. The view is beautiful and
picturesque, and is i^ronounced by distinguished travelers
to be the finest m America. N. P. Willis, and President
Hitchcock, the latter distinguished as a geologist, have
written glowing descriptions of its unrivaled beauty ; while
Jenny Lind, during a visit to it when on her concert-tour
through this country, spoke of it in terms of unqualified
praise. So great a diversity of scenery is rarely met Avith.
Mountain, meadow, river, and valley are harmoniously
blended, while here and there the tall spires of hundreds
of churches are seen pointing heavenward. The view is
much more extensive than one would supjiose, reaching
from the Green Mountains in Vermont and Monadnock in
New-Hampshire on the north, to East and West Rocks on
the Sound in the south, a distance of more than 100 miles.
On the west, Greylock rears its stately peak, while in the
east the rounded form of Wachusett meets the eye. The
view embraces no less than ten mountains in four States,
and about forty villages. The proprietor of the Prospect
House, J. W. French, has resided on the mountain nearly
twenty years, and half of that time both summer and
winter. Visitors are taken to the summit by steam power,
an inclined railway having been constructed in 1854, ex-
tending 600 feet down the mountain to the carriage-road,
where it is to connect with a horse railway to the Connecti-
cut River. A steamboat was built in the spring of 1866,
by Mr. French, of the Prospect House, and makes trips on
the Connecticut, carrying passengers to and from the ter-
minus of the mountain railway.
The summit is less than 3 miles from Northampton,

LAKES, BIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

)

nil

from which place it is easily reached by carriages or other-
wise.

Distance from the Prospect House to Northampton, 3
miles; Springfield, 20; Worcester, 76; Boston, 120; Al-
bany, 122 ; Hartford, 46 ; New-Haven, 82 ; New- York, 158 ;
Greenfield, 22 ; Brattleboro, 45 ; Bellows Falls, 70 ; White
River Junction, 109.

Perpendicular elevation of Mount Holyoke, 1000 feet.
Carriage-road from base to feeding-stable, f of a mile.
Railway from stable to summit, 600 feet. Perpendicular
ascent from stable, 365 feet. First house built in 1821.
Second house built in 1851. Enlarged to present size in
1861. First railway in 1854. Second railway in 1860.
Present track laid in 1866. Number of passengers carried
over its track to 1866, 125,000. Number of acres in Ox-
Bow Island, 400. Number of acres in Shepherd Island,
20. Number of acres in Northampton Meadows, 8000.
Number of acres in Hadley Meadows, 2700. Number of
trees in West Street, Hadley, 811. Length of West Street,
Hadley, 1 mile.

Round Hill, a beautiful eminence overlooking the town,
with its water-cure buildings, and its grove of native for-
est-trees, will be noticed in the north-west, and about a
quarter of a mile west of the railway.

Here George Bancroft, the historian, and J. G. Cogs-
well, for some years Librarian of the Astor Library, had a
famous classical school — one of the most noted in this coun-
try. Dr. H. Halsted now occupies the building for a
water-cure. Jenny Lind spent several months there just
after her marriage, previous to returning to Europe. The
view from the piazza of the water-cure is extensive and
beautiful, and is nowhere surpassed.

The State Lunatic Hospital, located 1 mile west of

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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

the village, is a large and elegant structure. The erection
of the building was commenced in 185G, and completed in
1858.

GREENFIELD.

Passing Whately, Hatfield, Soutli-Deerfield, with its
Sugar-Loaf Mountain, and Old Deerfield, with its Indian
massacre memories, after 2 hours' ride from Springfield,
the tourist is in Greenfield, one of the neatest, most taste-
ful, and most enjoyable towns in all New-England. Tbe
Mansion House is a capital summer hotel, and tl;ere are
delightful drives all about. Among the latter we would
mention that to Leyden Glen, the Gorge Road, up Green
River to Still Water, in Deerfield, coming back by the Old
Indian House to Turner's Falls, to Shelburne Falls, and
Hoosac Tunnel. On Rocky Mountain, about a mile east of
the town, are two other interesting localities — the Poet's
Seat, and Bear's Den. From the former there are views of
the Connecticut and the valley in the east, the locality of
Turner's Falls, the town of Montague, and the valley lying
to the west. From Bear's Den, a view is had of Deerfield
and the meadows around that town.

Visitors to the Hoosac Tunnel leave the cars at Green-
field and proceed by stage through the village of Shel-
burne Falls, and thence along the Deerfield River to the
western end of the tunnel.

MONADNOCK MOUNTAIN.

Just as the train approaches Vernon Station, the sum-
mit of Monadnock, 30 miles eastward, in JafFrey, N. H.,
can be seen through the valley of the Ashuelot. It is
3450 feet above the sea, and ^s the first land seen by sail-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ors entering Boston Harbor from European ports. In clear
weather, Bunker Ilill Monument can be seen with the aid
of the glass. From the summit, forty lakes and a large
number of villages are in full view, and the scenery around
the mountain is grand and beautiful. A large hotel has
been erected half-way to the summit, and is under the
management of George D. Rice. To reach it from the
Connecticut Valley, the tourist shoird leave the train at
South- Vernon, proceed to Keene by the Ashuelot Railway,
and thence to Troy on the Cheshire Railway, from which
place a stage runs to the hotel, 5 miles distant. Boston
people can leave the city by the early morning train, visit
the mountain, and return home the same day.

BIIATTLEBORO.

Brattleboro is a bewitching country town, distant 194
miles from New-York, 250 from Montreal, and 125 from
the White Mountains. It is noted for its water-cure,
insane hospital, and as a once favorite resort of Daniel
Webster. Larkin G. Mead, the artist, calls this his home.
The Wesselhoeft House is a very pleasant summer house.

Opposite Brattleboro, on the east side of the Connecticut,
are Wantastiquet and Mine Mountains, the former rising
from the river to the height of 1061 feet. The latter
extends eastward from Wantastiquet, and is only sepa-
rated from it by a narrow gorge. During the latter part
of the last century, a party sunk a shaft many feet into
the solid rock on Mine Mountain, in search of silver, which
they had incredulously been led to believe existed there ;
but after the expenditure of a large sum of money, the
enterprise was abandoned.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

BELLOWS FALLS.

Opposite Bellows Falls Village, in New-Hampshire, is
Mount Kilburn, formerly known as Fall Mountain. It is a
little over 800 feet high, and from the summit a fine view
of the village and the distant mountain peaks is had. The
early settlers gave it the name of Fall Mountain from the
fact that at its base are the Great Falls in the Connecticut.
In 1850, President Hitchcock and the students of Amherst
and Middlebury Colleges met at Bellows Falls, and chris*
tened it Mount Kilburn, in honor of the hero who fought
the Indians so gallantly from his little fort, just below the
south end of the mountain.

Bellows Falls received its name from Col. Bellows, the
founder of Walpole, and it was formerly a great fishing
place w4th the Indians, who came here to cstch shad and
salmon.

The first bridge across the Connecticut was built at this
place in 1785, and was 365 feet in length. For eleven
years it was the only bridge across this river.

A canal, nearly half a mile in length, was constructed
many years ago around the falls on the western side, and
it was thought that a large manufacturing village would
at some future day be built here.

Summer tourists have, of late years, spent considerable
time here. The drives in the vicinity are very pleasant.
A favorite one with old residents is to Warner's Pond, in
Alstead, N. H., wl;ere picnics are held.

The Island House, kept by Mr. Charles Towns, is one of
the best in the State, and has long been a favorite with
tourists. It is pleasantly situated on the eminence east of
the station, and overlooks the river and valley.

LAKES, mVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ASCUTNEY MOUNTAIN.

This mountain, which is seen on the west side of the Con-
necticut, is 3320 feet high, and is situated in Windsor and
Wethersfiehl, Vt. It is an isolated peak, and its bold and
rocky summit forms a prominent feature in the landscape
for many miles around. Three deep valleys course tlieir
way down the western side of the mountain, and from this
fact it is stated that the Indians called it Ascutney, signi-
fying " Three Brothers." The view from the sunmiit is
the most grand and extensive of any in Eastern Vermont.
Below is the beautiful Connecticut, winding itself among
the hills and forests, while hundreds of farm-houses and
villages are scattered seemingly over a vast plain. A road
has been constructed from Windsor to the summit, a dis-
tance of 5 miles, and horses and guides can be obtained
of Mr. Cushing, of the Windsor House, at Windsor. There
IS a rude house on the mountain, to protect the tourist in
case of storm.

WHITE KIVER JUNCTION.

White River Junction is one of the most important rail-
road stations on the line. From this jjoint trains from the
North, South, East, and West meet. The Vermont Central
Railway here passes into the valley of White River, and
pursues a more westerly course, while tl Northern New-
Hampshire road, forming a junction with it, crosses the
Connecticut and connects at Concord, N. H., with other
roads leading into Boston. The Connecticut and Viva-
3umpsic Rivers Railway extends from this place in a
northerly course, crossing White River at its mouth, just
north of the station, to Newport, on Lake Mempliremagog,
passing through the rich and fertile valleys of the Con-
necticut and Passumpsic Rivers. Travelers to the White

LAKES, mVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

■i;

Mountains tako this railway to Wulls River, wlioro tlioy
conn«'< t witli the railway to Littleton, and thonco by staj^i^
to tlio various points in the mountains.

Ill ffoing either to tlio White Mountains or Mount Man»=
field, thero is no change of cars at White River Junction.
If the tourist is goinj? to tlio White Mountains, ho should
take a seat in the forward car hefore reaching the Junc-
tion ; and if to Mount Mansfield, in the rear, or one of the
Vermont Central cars.

TrainH stop for dinner at Wliito River Junction, and if
the White Mountain traveler desires rest, the Junction
House "Will conif(jrtably accommodate him over night.

TO MOUNT MANSFIELD AND MONTREAL.

The first place of importance that tourists pass on the
Vermont Central Railway, on their way to Mansfield or
Montreal, is Montpelier. It is reached by a short branch
road from Montpelier Junction ; and although a little out
of the way, is nevertheless well worthy a visit.

Leaving Montpelier Junction, the tourist enttsrs the
beautiful valley of the Winooski. Her*' is seen Camel's
Hump, the second highest peak in the State.

At Waterbur} Station, 73 miles from White River Junc-
tion and 31 miles from Burlington, the tourist h ives the
railway to visit Mount Mansfield, going 10 miles north by
stage to Stowe, where there is the largest and most com-
plete summer hotel in the State. This village is situated
in quite an extensive valley, surrounded by beautiful hills
and lofty mountain peaks, and for a quiet summer resort
it has few equal ^. The Waterbury Hotel, kept by Mr. N.
P. Keeler, capable of accommodating 100 guests, was
recently built, and has no superior for the accommodation
of tourists. The drives to Bolton Falls, 3 miles .vest.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUXTAINB.

wlifTo tlnT<' iH a luitiiral brld^ci over tho rlvc^r, ar.l ^ nillrH
to CanicrH llimii), as well an tin; many othcrH, an [Oi'asant
an<l cliariuin^.

To viHit Mount iManHflold, you will Ic^avo tlui rniKvay at
\N^\t(>rl)iiry and take; th'^ Htajro to Stowe, 10 miles imrtli-
ward. 'V\w siinimlt of MansHeld in H miles iroiii Stowi?,
but this is the head<iuarters of mountain visitors, as here
is tlio spacious ManHticdd House, and h(^re hors(!S and car-
riages are provided for those ffoin^ to the mountain.

The principal drives are to Mount Mansfield, 8 miles;
Smupf^lers' Notch, 8 miles — one of the most "vvild and
romantic places in the country ; Binn^ham's Falls, ij miles;
Moss (illen Falls, J3.} miles; (iold Brook, 3 miles; West
Hill, 2 miles; Morrisville Falls, 8 miles; Johnson Falls,
12 miles ; Ntjbraska, (j miles.

During the summer the sta<?es from Rtowe to Water-
bury connect with all the x)rincii)al trains.

Burlino;ton and Baint Albans are the two places of impor-
tance on the line of the Vermont Central between JNIount
Mansfield and Montreal. The former of these placets is
more fully described under the heading of Lake Ciiam-

PLAIN.

TO WHITE MOUNTAINS AND LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.

Returning to White River Junction, let us continue our
journey up the Connecticut Valley proper, and to the
grand old White Hills.

First in interest we pass Hanover, which is the home of
Dartmouth College. Oxford is next in interest, owing to
its popularity as a summer resort. It is one of the most
delightful places in New-Hampshire.

Bradford is the second most important town on the route
from White River Junction to Newport, Vt.

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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

In the nortli-west part of the town, in Wright's Moun-
tain, is a cave with several apartments, called Devil's Den.
It is thought to have once been the abode of human
beings.

In this town, in 1813, was manufactured, by James Wil-
son, the first artificial globe made in the United States.

Newbury is one of the oldest towns on the upper Con-
necticut, and few places present greater attractions for a
quiet summer residence. Here are the celebrated Noav-
bury Sulphur Springs, long known to invalids in New-
England. They are in the valley, east of the depot, where
a bath-house has been fitted up. An analysis of the water
has been made, and it is highly recommended by able
physicians.

Directly in the rear of Newbury is Mount Pulaski, an
elevation easy of access, and from it can be seen a wide
extent of country. The tourist should ascend its summit
and look upon the scenery spread before him. To the
right is the valley of Haverhill, with its long street, and
directly east is Moose Hillock. To the left of it are Sugar
Loaf and Black Mountains. Further beyond, in the north-
east, are the Franconia Mountains, and in a pleasant day
Franconia Notch can be seen, through wdiich tourists pass
to the White Mountains. The Profile House is only about
25 miles from Newbury.

Leaving Newbury and passing the Great Ox-Bow, you
soon come to the pleasant village of Wells River, in the
town of Newbury, 40 miles from White River Junction.
Here White Mountain tourists change cars for Littleton, it
being the junction of the Boston and Montreal and White
Mountains Railways. It is 20 miles to Littleton, from
which travelers go by stage 11 miles to the Profile House,

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUlSTrAINS.

and 22 to tlie Crawford House. The view at tins point is

magnificent.

^] I

NORTH OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

A short distance above the mouth of the Passumpsic,
you come to McLeran's. Before the railway was built
from Wells River to Littleton, this was the starting-point
for stages to the White Mountains. The falls in the x^as-
sumpsic will be noticed on the right.

After Passumpsic, the tourist next passes Saint Johns-
bury, a beautiful town, made famous by the Messrs. Fair-
banks, of scale notoriety.

Sixteen miles from Saint Johnsbury, yon reach West-
Burke, near which is Burke Mountain, 2000 feet in height.
At this station passengers leave the railway for Lake Wil-
loughby, 6 miles distant. Mr. David Trull, proprietor
of the West-Burke Hotel, near the station, will furnish
the tourist conveyance to that place on the arrival of
the trains. Willoughby is one of the must remarkable
lakes in this country. It lies between two mountains,
which rise abruptly from its shores to the height of nearly
2000 feet. The lake is from half a mile to 2 miles wide,
and is 6 miles long. The water is so 'deep, in places,
that no bottom has been found. Mr. Alonzo Bemis has
erected a large hotel at the south end of the lake, where
tourists can get good accommodations. It is a wild and
romantic spot, and to the lover of nature it presents many
attractions. Mr. Robert Van Arsdale, of Newark, N. J.,
has built a summer residence at the south end of the lake,
and spends the summer months here. A good view of
Willoughby Mountain, rising from the east shore of the
lake, is had before you reach West-Burke Station.

Barton Landing, a few miles farther north, is the point

LAKES, RIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS.

from which stages run to the delightful village of Iras-
burg, 3^ miles westward. The Irasburg House, kept by
Rufus B. Richardson, will accommodate about 100 guests.

Leaving Barton Landing, you soon reach Coventry Sta-
tion. Continuing northward, you come to a bay connected
with Lake Mempremagog. Passing along its eastern
bank, you cross it on a spile-bridge, and in a few minutes
are landed in front of Memphremagog House in Newport,
upon the shore of the lake.

Fuller descriptions of Lake Memphremagog and Mount
Mansfield are given elsewhere.

This completes the routes of the Connecticut Valley,
unless, perchance, one desires to go to the source of the
Connecticut River and catch trout in beautiful Lake Um-
bagog — a thing wdiich we advise young men to do. There
are no hotels upon the shores of the lake, but there are
pleasant farm-houses.

Speaking of the Connecticut Valley last season, the
Springfield Republican said : " All through the Connecti-
cut Valley we find each year increasing numbers of sum-
mer visitors. The beautifully shaded villages from Hart-
ford to Lancaster all have more or less city boarders.
Some, like Brattleboro, Northampton, Deerfield, Walpole,
Windsor, Charlestown, Haverhill, Hanover, Orford, Lan-
caster, are noted resorts, and are gay through the summer
weeks with the people and the fashions of the towns.
Brattleboro has fewer guests, however, this year than
usual; Orford, with many lust season, has scarcely any
now; but the others have full complements; and these
quiet and almost decaying old towns are wakened into
new vitality by this new branch of industry, to wit, ' board-
ing.' Their ar. lent hotels are brushing the cobwebs off
the traditions of their staging days, and the ci\11ization of

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

New- York and Boston more and more permeates and
unsettles society in the remotest of country towns.

" Springfield, tliougli as invitinrr as Northampton or
Brattleboro, entertains but few at this season. We feel
our city pride, and must go, instead of bidding our friends
to come. The mountains and the seashore are our favorite
resorts. These hill-towns to the west of us, like Bland-
ford and Chester, take a few visitors, and could have hun-
dreds of our citizens and their families, if they would but
provide comfortable board for them. The air of their hills
is in marked contrast, in dryness and coolness, to that of the
town, and many an invalid person or child is revived by
even a few days' visit to them. But the people of these
villages upon the hills seem too unenterprising or unintel-
ligent to meet the demand for accommodations. They
will soon learn their opportunity and improve it, however.
The chance is too good a one to be long neglected."

I ^

THE WHITE M0U:NTAINS. ^

When to Go. — " It is to be regretted," says Starr King,
" that the mountains are not visited during the splendid
days of the early summer. From the middle of June to
the middle of July, foliage is more fresh ; the cloud-sce-
nery is nobler ; the meadow-grass has a more golden color ;
the streams are usually more full and musical ; and there
is a larger proportion of the ' long light' of the afternoon,
which kindles the landscape into the richest loveliness.
The mass of visitors to the White Mountains go during
the dog-days, and leave when the finer September weather
sets in with its prelude touches of the October splendor.
In August there are fewer clear skies ; there is more fog ;
the meadows are appareled in more sober green ; the

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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTATXS.

lii<]fhost rocky cr«;.sts may bo wrapped in mistrt for days in
Biiccesaion ; and a travtilor has I'cwer chances of makin«^
acquauitanoo with a bracinjr mountain broozo. The hitter
half of Juno is the blossom season of beauty in the moun-
tain districts ; the first half of October is the time of its
full-hued fruitage."

How TO Go. — For tourists whose time or purse will not
permit them to journey " across the continent," the White
Mountains of New-llampshire are the chief, as they are
the most fashionable, of all mountain resorts in tlui
United States. They cover an area of about 40 miles
square, in Coos county, Northern New-IIampshire, and,
under the general title of the " White Hills," two groups
of mountains are included ; one, the Mount Washington
chain, or the White Mountains proper ; the other, tluj
Franconia range, of which Mount Lafayette, 1000 feet
lower than Mount Washington, is the highest summit.
To these two, the highest ranges of the mountains of
New-Hampshire, there are four avenues of approach : the
valleys of the Saco, the Merrimack — or rather the Pemi-
gewasset, its main source — the Androscoggin, and the trib-
utaries of the Connecticut. Railways connect with every
one of these natural paths, except the Saco ; and, by each
line, one may reach some point among the highest hills
on the evening of the same day that lie leaves Boston, or
in about 17 hours from New- York.

Briefly, the advantages of these several routes are as
follows : by the Androscoggin valley to Gorliam, (giving
this as the chief point of arrival,) the quickest access to
the Mount Washington chain is afforded, (although the
Saco Valley route reaches the Notch most speedily,) bring-
ing the tourist to the extreme eastern declivities. By the
Saco Valley to Weirs, Centre Harbor, or Alton, on Lako

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Photographic

Sdences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STRECT

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4S03

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LAKES, BIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Winnipisiogee, (pronounced, but improperly spelled, Win*
nipesaukee,) the tourist comes to the western borders of
the Mount Washington chain by the delightful lakfj-
route, the most generally chosen of all the approaches to
the whole region. By the Pemigewasset (or Merrimack)
Valley to Plymouth, the quickest access to the Franconia
chain is afforded, coming from the south-east. And lastly,
by the Connecticut Valley to Littleton, the north-western
borders of the Franconia chain are reached, with 15 miles
less staging than by the Pemigewasset Valley ; or the
White Mountain Notch may be reached more quickly by
this way than by either of the other three, with the ad-
ditional advantage (if so esteemed) that the highest ranges
are seen first of all. With this general view of the " lay
of the land," we proceed to give the principal routes
which may enable the tourist, coming from New- York or
Boston, to enter the mountain region by each of the four
valleys respectively. And, as most of the routes properly
begin at Boston, we may first state, summarily, the best
routes thither from New- York City.

The finest " Sound steamers" are now the Bristol and
the Proviuence, leaving Pier 40, North River, every day at
5 P.M. By these, passengers go as far as Bristol, Ct.,
whence proceed by rail to Boston, 5^ A.M. Fare, $5;
supper on board, $1 ; the same prices on all boats. After
these, there are the Fall River boats, 5 p.m.. Pier 28, North
River, trans ferring the passenger to railway at Newport,
reaching Boston " in time for morning trains." Also, the
New-London steamboats, 5 p.m., Pier 39, North River,
transferring to the New-London and Northern and the
Worcester Railways, thence to Boston in early morning.
And, finally, there are two all-rail routes, the Springfield
and Worcester line, and the Shore line (two ferries this

•^

tlie
lis

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

way) by Now-London and Providence ; both start from
Twenty-seventh street depot at 8 A.M. and 8 p.m., (Sun-
days, 5 P.M.,) reaching Boston at 4 p.m. and G a.m.,
(Mondays, 3 A.M. ;) elegant compartment-cars (English
style) on day train, and good sleeping-cars at night, at ex-
tra charges. Railway fare, $6.

Androscoggin Valley Route. — Starting now anew
from Boston, the traveler choosmg the Androscoggin Val-
ley route will take the Boston and Maine Railway to Port-
land, from Ilaymarket square, passing the famous Phillips
Academies of Andover, Mass., and Exeter, N. H., on his
journey ; or the Eastern Railway f 3m Causeway street,
passing through Lynn, Salem, and Newburyport, Mass.,
and Portsmouth, N. H. — (the two roads unite at ^outh-
Berwick, Me.) — or by boat from India wharf daily, (except
Sunday,) at 7 P.M. ; or from Commercial wharf Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 8 a.m., to Portland ; thence,
by Gland Trunk Railway, to Gorliam, where is the Alpine
House ; stage to Glen House. Time by this route — New-
York to Boston, say 11 hours ; Boston to Portland, 5
hours ; Portland to Gorliam, 4 or 5 hours ; say 24 hours
from New- York to Gorliam.

Saco Valley Route. — The favorite lake-trip over Win-
nipisiogee has the following varieties, all good : From Bos-
ton, by Boston and Lowell and Concord Railways, or by Bos
ton and Maine, and Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence
Railways, to Concord, N. H. ; thence by Boston, Concord,
and Montreal Railway to Weirs, on the lake ; thence by
steamer Lady of the Lake, 30 miles, to Centre Harbor Or
Wolfborough ; thence by stage ma North-Con way to Glen
House. Or from Boston, by Boston and Maine Railway,
to Dover, N. H. ; thence by Dover and Winnipisiogee
Railway to Alton, steamer Chocorua to Wolfborough and

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

;, (

Centre Harbor* stage to North-Conway. The distance
from Centre Harbor to the Crawford House, at the Notch, is
63 miles ; Conway is 33 miles from that hotel.

Pemigewasset Valley Route. — By the Boston, Con-
cord, and Montreal Railway, taking trains which connect
with that road from the station either of the Boston and
Maine or the Boston and Lowell Railway, the traveler
bound for the Franconia Mountains reaches Plymouth,
N. H., 120 miles from Boston, a little after noon. Having
dined in Plymouth, he takes the stage for the Profile
House, in the Franconia Notch, 30 miles distant, which
will be reached before sunset. The old Flume House has
gone to decay.

Connecticut Valley Route. — The same train which
is left at Plymouth by those who wish to go directly by
stage to the Profile House, will carry passengers some 70
miles north of Plymouth, to Littleton. This village is on
the Lower Ammonoosuc River, very near its junction with
the Connecticut. The cars that leave Boston in the morn-
ing reach Littleton about 5 in the afternoon. From Lit-
tleton it is 11 miles to the Profile House in the Franconia
Notch, and 23 miles to the Crawford House, near the
White Mountain Notch.

Other Routes not by Boston. — Of course, there is
an endless variety of routes beside the ones already
named ; but the +ourist will not thank us for multiplying
his portable pages beyond necessity. We may add, to his
great benefit, three routes only, which seek the White
Mountains by a shorter eastward journey than those which
traverse Boston. The first proceeds, by the Boston express
train from Twenty-seventh street depot, or by boat and
rail through Norwich, to Worcester, Massachusetts, thence
direct by the Worcester and Nashua and Concord Railways

LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTAINS.

to Concord, whence he may proceed, as already described,
to Weirs, Plymouth, or Littleton, which are distant from
Concord in the order named. The second route Sk'arts from
Twenty-seventh street also, and proceeds to Springfield,
Massachusetts. Here the traveler changes to the Connec-
ticut River road, and pursues its connections through Brat-
tleboro. Bellows Falls, White River Junction, and Wells
River to Littleton. To the tourist who is already familiar
with the Hudson, but not yet with the quieter Connecti-
cut, this route, (although it can not include the lower
river,) following, as it does, the latter stream all the way
from Hartford nearly to its fountains, can not be equaled
for attractiveness ; and the whole day which it consumes
beyond the time of the routes already named will by no
means be wasted in its enjoyment. The third route, also
occupying two days, is the finest possible of all the list,
including the Hudson River trip (see article Along the
Hudson for routes to Troy) and that on the Connecticut
River, just given, beyond Bellows Falls, beside the beauti-
ful mountainous region of Western Vermont. The traveler
will reach Troy by rail or boat from New- York, and go
thence to Rutland through Eagle Bridge, (it is useless to
undertake to say by what road, until the interminable
railway quarrels in Western Vermont may be somewhat
quieted,) remaining over night ; leave in the morning by
Rutland and Burlington Railway for Bellows Falls, and
thereafter pursue the course of the route just given. This
completes the long list of routes which may be confident-
ly recommended.

Where to Stay. — Arriving at Gorham, the traveler
may make either the Alpine or the Glen House his point
of departure for the Mount Washington chain. The

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

■<

Crawford House is situated upon tlie other (the west) side
of Mount Washington.

The Alpine House is situated in the valley at the junc-
tion of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers. The valley
is 800 feet above the sea, and its breadth is so great that
the air is more dry, pure, and bracing than in the more
narrow passes directly under the lofty summits. The pro-
prietor is Mr. J. R. Hitchcock. The house may be reached
either by Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham or by stage from
Centre Harbor ma North-Conway and the Glen, or from
lattleton via Bethlehem, Crawford House, White Moun-
tain Notch, and Glen House ; or by way of Lancaster and
Jefferson, (Waumbeck House.) There is a post-oiRce and a
telegraph station near by. Post-oflBce address, Gorham,
N. H. The house is open all the year. Terms, $4 per
day. From this point there is a fine road all the way — 16
miles — to the Tip-Top House on the summit of Mount
Washington. The distance to the base, at Glen House, is
8 miles. Trains arrive at Gorham from Portland at 11
A.M. and 6 P.M. ; leave at 12 midnight and 9 a.m. for Port-
land.

The Glen House, 8 miles by stage south from Gorham,
stands on a plateau, 830 feet above the Gorham valley, and
1632 feet above tide-water at Portland, in the midst of a
magnificent mountain bowl. No public house among the
mountains is situated so near the Mount Washington range
as this, four of the highest summits being in full view, di-
rectly in front of the hotel. (The height of Mount Wash-
ington is 6285 feet ; Mount Clay, 54O0 ; Mount Adams,
5800 ; Mount Madison, 5361 ; Mount Jefferson, 5700.) Mr.
J. M. Thompson is proprietor of the Glen House, and can
make room for 500 guests from June 1st till October 16th.
There is a telegraph and a post-station in the house. Ad-

WiOBHaaSBAii

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOTJNTAtXS.

md
^f a
the
igo
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dress, Glen House, N. H. Price of board, $4 per day.
Stages leave for the Crawford House and North-Conway
at 8 A.M. ; for Gorliam in time to connect with trains. The
Notch is on the Crawford road, near that hotel. The as-
cent of Mount Washington is now most commonly made
from the Glen House and the Alpine House, by the famous
carriage-road commenced in 1855 and fully completed in
1861. The average grade is 12 feet in 100, and the steep-
est grade in any part, which, strange to say, is about 2^
miles from the base, is 16 feet in 100 for a short distance.
The bridle-path formerly went up the mountain side in
nearly a straight line, while the road winds around the
ledge and up the mountain-side, making nearly double the
distance. Most travelers deem the ascent more objection-
able than the descent. But in no part is there any difficulty
or danger in the ascent, no more discomfort being experi-
enced than in the same amount of carriage-riding upon
any of the mountain roads.

The tariff of tolls on the carriage-road is as follows :

For every person on foot $0.32

" " " on horseback, * 80

" " " in carriages, 80

" " snlky with one horse, 6i

" " carriage with 4 wheels for 2 persons, 64

" " " with 2 horses and 4 wheels, 96

" " " with4horses, 1.28

For every carriage of pleasure or otherwise, the like
sums, according to the number of wheels and horses draw-
ing the same. Each person pays the toll for himself in
addition to the price for his seat in the carriage, and the
proprietor pays the carriage-toll.

The Crawford House, 100 rods from the White Moun-
tain Notch, and in the midst of a little plateau about 2000

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

feet above the sea, is kept by Messrs. Doyle and Hartshorn,
proprietors. Post and telegraph offices in the house. Board,
$4.50 per day ; accommodations for 250 guests. The hotel
is lighted with gas throughout, and all the sleeping-rooms
are on the first and second floors. The office is situated in
the central part of the house, and generally presents as
busy a scene as the great square in a city. Hither every
one comes to talk over his plans, and to make arrange-
ments for various excursions, or for continuing his journey
to other points of interest. One should be careful, as soon
as he arrives, to book his name at this place for a horse to
Mount Washington, if he intends to make the ascent within
a few days, as often all the ponies are engaged for a day or
two beforehand. The price of a horse to the summit and
back, with guides for the party, is $4 ; the bridle-path is 9
miles in asbent to the Tip-Top House. The steam railway
up the mountain is to be completed by the opening of this
(1808) season, and its base, 7 miles from the hotel, may be
reached over a good road. The nearness of the summit of
Mount Willard is one of the attractions at the Crawford ;
distance only 3 miles, over a good bridle-path. Stages
arrive at the House from Littleton at 5 and 10 P.M. ; from
the Profile House at 2 p.m. ; from the Glen House at
5 P.M. ; from North-Conway at 1 p.m. Stages leave
house for Littleton at 4 and 10 a.m. ; for the Profile House,
at 8 A.M. ; for the Glen House, at 8 A.M. ; and for Conway,
at 8 A.M.

The. Tip-Top House, including the building formerly
known as the Summit House, on the summit of Mount
Washington, more than 6000 feet above the sea, is a mar-
vel of comfort to the weary traveler who has for hours
been longing for its rest and convenience. Mr. J. R.
Hitchcock, landlord of the Alpine House, is landlord here

LAKES, RIVEE3, AND MOUNTAINS.

)use,
ray,

also, and the house is under the immediate charp^e of Mr.
A. II. Pahuer. When we think what a labor it has been
to carry all provisions to such an elevation, and that even
fuel must be taken up from the forests far below, wo can
not fail to admire the forethought and energy that hav(!
kept the Summit House so well. Good coffee and tea,
with milk, fresh eggs, new and well-made bread, generally
fresh meats, as well as excellent ham, and often trout, are
found on the plentifully provided table. Those who as-
cended Mount Wasliington before there was any shelter
on the peak from gale or shower, or driving scud, or snow
squall, that often awaited and overtook them, will know
how those are favored now who find good protection, fire,
and a hot dinner ready on the top. Sheets of paper and
envelopes, each with an engraving of the Mountain House
and Summit, are on sale there. Letters written there to
friends are mailed to all parts of the country by the pro-
prietors of the hotel. They drop the summer out of their
calendar, and make their home for days above human
fellowship, amid lightning and thunder, blinding fogs and
sweeping sleet, to offer such service to travelers.

The Profile House, a new and large hotel, accommodat-
ing 500 guests, open from June 1st to October ICtli, is
situated in the immediate vicinity of Echo Lake, (lialf a
mile,) Cannon or Profile Mountain, and The Profile, (half
a mile,) the Flume and Pool, (6 miles,) and Mount La-
fayette, (5 miles over bridle-path to summit.) It is on a
level plain, a few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills,
and has two approaches : on the north, from Bethlehem
and Littleton ; on the south, from the Flume House and
Pemigewasset Valley. Terms, $4.50 per day ; telegraph
and post-stations in the house. Stages arrive at the house
from Littleton at 3 and 7^ p.m. ; from Plymouth, at 7 p.m.

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

;

and from the Crawford House, at 2 p.m. Stages leave the
liouso for Littleton, 7 a.m. and 3 r.M. ; for Plymouth, 7
A.M., (and oftener if desired ;) and the Crawford, at 8 A.M.

Tho most attractive advertisement of the Franconia
Notch to the traveling public is the rumor of the Great
Stone Fa!^e, that hangs upon one of its highest cliffs. If its
inclosing walls were less grand, and its water gems less
lovely, travelers would be still, perhaps, as strongly attract-
ed to the spot, that they might see a mountain which
breaks into human expression— a piece of sculpture older
than the Sphinx— an imitation of the human countenance,
wliich is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out
from the corpse strata of New-England thousands of years
before Adam. The marvel of this countenance, outlined
so distinctly against the sky at an elevation of nearly
1500 feet above the road, is greatly increased by the
fact that it is composed of three masses of rock which
are not in perpendiccdar line with each other. On the
brow of the mountain itself, standing on the visor of tho
helmet that covers the face, or directly underneath it on
the shore of the little lake, there is no intimation of any
human features in the lawless rocks. Remove but a few
rods either -vay from the guide-board on the road, where
you are advised to look up, and the charm is dissolved.
But the whole mountain from which the Profile starts is
one of the noblest specimens of majestic rock that can be
seen in New-Hampshire. One may tire of the craggy
countenance sooner than of the sublime front and vigor-
ous slopes of Mount Cannon itself — especially as it is seen,
with its great patches of tawny color, in driving up from
the lower part of the Notch to the Profile House.

Other hotels which are not actually at the Mountains,
but Drove to be necessary to the traveler, are as follows, (a

.^Uzz:

leave the
nouth, 7
it 8 A.M.
ranconia
le Orcat
s. If its
sms less
r attract-
a which
ire older
benance,
lied out
of years
outlined
nearly
by the
L which
On the
of the
it on
f any
a few
where
lolved.
,rts is
;an be

■aggy
igor-

1 seen,
from

jiains,
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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS,

'',1

list which does not, of course, include all in the region,
but may be relied on as accurate and entirely adapted for
this summer, as far as it goes.)

The Bethlehem House, at Bethlehem, on the stage-road
between Littleton (5 miles distant) and the Crawford— pass-
ing the old Fabian— IIouso, (17 miles further,) is kept by
Mr. K R. Abbott, at $3.50 per day for transient and |8 to
$15 per week for permanent boarders. It is reached only
by stages, arriving from Littleton at 1 and 6 p.m. ; from
the Profile House, at 10 A.M. ; and from the Crawford, at 11
A.M. Stages leave Bethlehem for Littleton at 7 A.M. and
2 r.M ; for the Profile, at 10^ A.M. ; and for the Crawford, at
11 ^ A.M. Accommodations for 200 guests the year round ;
post and telegraph stations convenient.

The old Fabian House is being rebuilt.

The Lancaster House, 16 miles north by carriage-road
from Bethlehem, is also open the year round. Proprietor,
Mr. E. Stanton ; accommodations for 250 guests ; board,
$3.50 per day, or $9 to $15 per week. Bethlehem is a postal
station, and there is also telegraphic communication with
all points. The Grand Trunk station, connected by stage
with Lancaster, is Northumberland, 10 miles to the north-
east. Stages arrive at Lancaster from trains from Port
land at 1 and 9 p.m. ; from Montreal, at 10 A.M. Stages
from Littleton, 20 miles, where the White Mountain Rail-
way terminates on the north, arrive at 9 P.M. at Lancaster.
Stages leave Lancaster for Portland {via Northumberland)
at 6 and 10 P.M. ; for Montreal, at 6 p.m. ; for Littleton and
White Mountains Railway to Wells River Junction, at 5
A.M. The location of this house is an excellent one for
summer boarding. Good board may also be obtained at
private houses in the village for $7 per week.

Sumner's Hotel is located at the post-town of Dalton,

1 1

^•VKKS, BJVBKS, AXB MOU.VTA.Xs.

'•n.st(.p Tl.««« • "^ *"<^' Matter anrl h *•« r

'""'« aro $3 per day, and «sT /;. ' ^''""«"'' ""d tl.o
-f from Littleton' tstt Jn^ f ^' "'^"''- ^"'^-^
Saturdays, and leave for UtZJoT'"' ''''"™''''^-' "'"J
The VVau„,beek House, B H ;r„":'^r'''''^«''*«^«'
"'« postal station („o te elfpM "f ^V""'''^''''' " "«
n»'e« from Lancaster andTf ^ "^"^'"'''"' N. II., 8
Booms for 300 guests, ZrTJ^T ''^^-^-fora II„„'J
""^ek. The hotel is on the Wit ^ ""'' ^' *" ^'^ I'-'
from Gorham, (the Alpine l ^T , ^^""^ *^'''""«i'' road
ain Notch-a ^^..T^ , "1" *° "^ ^hite Mo„„
"■■•ect road, but one almost alwai;","''^ '™'" ">« ""oat
along almost the whole 1 L^J^the T' '"' "'" "='-<^^y
that o^er any other «tarrol! """" '' »«">''« ">"«
, When Starr King wr^e W Ir/v""^ "'" "^"""ntains.
'anaented the want of a hll 1 ''' ^'"'' '" 1859, he
-«, remarking : " There irrcfV" '^'""»''^<='' "-
o;- other routes; but for gldeu, !?? *° ''^ «"W<--1
«t studying the wildnessTd 1"; f '"' °PPo«uni.ies
range, the Cherry Moun7„ ''^"^ °^ t''" sovereio-n

New-Hampshire." iZwZTll'^'''"^' '^ ^'valn
^ite place of resort for t^L^'f «-- - also a favo
«g pure mountain air St2l- T '^''''°"« "^ "btaln-
;f the house, is easily ascJnTed? '°""''''"' '" *« - -
hotel, With a glass, ^JTonlt „ °* *^^ ^'^^'^ "^ the
">fon can be distLcfly 1"" ~! "^ ^ount Wash-
hotel to the White MountaTn lif Ji ''*''°'=^ ^""^ the
Profile House, by the way o w^t fi I '' "'"^^ '• *" «-
28 miles; to the Glen House bw^*'"'" ""'' Bethlehem,
o^ Madison, .OmUes;toT:tilt,j:^-°^ .

'^4

LAKES, RIVKBS, AND MOUNTAINS.

;humber-
pom Lan-
open all
and tlio
Sta^ciS
ays, and
at 6 A.M.
or, is at
^. II., 8
House.
$14 per
ain road
B Moun-
18 most
scenery
er than
intains.
^59, he
k now
njoyed
unities
ereign
ral in
favo-
tain-
rear
if the
^ash-
the
the
em,
ase

THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON.

ABRIDGED FROM THOMAS STARR KING'S " WHITE HILLS."

There are throo paths for the ascent of Mount Wash-
ington — one from the Crawford House at the Notch, one
from the Whita Mountain House, 5 miles beyond the
Notch, and one from the Glen. The path from the White
Mountain Ilcfuse requires the shortest horseback ride.
Parties are carried by wagons up the side of Mount Wash-
ington to a point less than 3 miles from the summit.
The bridle-path, however, is quite steep, and no time is
gained by this ascent. The rival routes are those from
the Notch and the Glen. Each of these has some decided
advantages over the other. The Glen route is the short-
est. For the first 4 miles the horses keep the wide and
hard track, with a regular ascent of 1 foot in 8, which was
laid out for a carriage-road to the summit, but never com-
pleted. This is a great gain over the corduroy a • "■ mud
through the forests of Mount Clinton, which bv^iong to
the ascent from the Notch.

When we rise ip into the region where the real moun-
tain scenery opens, the views from the two paths are
entirely different in character, and it is difficult to decide
which is grander. From the Notch, as soon as we ride
out of the forest, we are on a mountain top. We have
scaled Mount Clinton, which is 4200 feet high. Then the
path follows the line of the White Mountain ridge. We
descend a little, and soon mount the beautiful dome of
Mount Pleasant, which is 500 feet higher. Descending
this to the narrow line of the ridge again, we come to
Mount Franklin, a little more than 100 feet higher than
Pleasant, less marked in the landscape, but very difficult
to climb. Beyond this, 500 feet higher still, are tlie dou-

iff .•

LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS.

ble peaks of Mr ant Monroe ; and then winding down to
the Lake of the Clouds, from whence tlio Ammonoosuc
issues,' we stand before the cone of Mount Washington,
which springs more than 1000 feet above us. The views
of the ravines all along thia route, as we pass over the
sharpest portions of the ridge, and see them sweeping off
each way from the path, are very exciting. And there is
the great advantage in this approach to He noted that, if
Mount Washington is clouded, and the other summits are
clear, travelers do not lose the sensation and the effects
produced by standing for the first time on a mountain
peak. ' ' -.-■:-'. .• •-/■•-.v -:.,".. '^'':. -/t"i^^^.^'.:

By the Glen route we cross no subordinate peaks, and
do not follow a ridge line from which we see summits
towering here and there, but steadily ascend Mount Wash-
ington itself. In this way a more adequate conception is
gained of its immense mass and majestic architecture.
After we pass above the line of the carriage-road to the
barren portion of the mountain, there are grand pictures
at the south and east of the Androscoggin Valley, and
the long, heavily-wooded Carter range. Indeed, nothing
which th<3 day can show will give more astonishment
than the spectacle which opens after passing through the
spectral forest, made up of acres of trees, leafless, peeled,
and bleached, and ridiag out upon the ledge. Those who
make thus their first acquaintance v/ith a mountain height
will feel, in looking down into the immense hollow in
which the Glen House is a dot, and off" upon the vast
green breastwork of Mount Carter, that language must
be stretched and intensified to answer for the new sensa-
tions awakened. We shall never forget the phrase which
a friend once used — an artist in expression as in feeling,
and not given under strong stimulant to superlatives — as

.•<-

ig down to
nmonoosuc
'^ashingfton.

The views
38 over the
i^'eeping off
ad there is
ted that, if
immits are
the effects

mountain

peaks, and

e summits

unt Wash-

nception is

chitecture.

oad to the

pictures

alley, and

nothing

nishment

•ough the

s, peeled,

lose who

n height

ollow in

the vast

ge must

w sensa-

e which

feeling,

ves — as

Berlin Falls, White MountainB.

'i 1

.HmiilM^M ■.:

LAKES, RIVBRS, AND MOUNTAINS.

'75

he looked, for the first time, from the ledge upon the
square miles of undulating wilderness : " See the tumultu-
ous bombast of the landscape I" Yet the glory of the
view is, after all, the four highest companion mountains
of the range, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison, that show
themselves in a bending line beyond the tremendous
gorge at the right of the path, absurdly called the " Gulf
of Mexico," and are visible from their roots to their sum-
mits. These mountains are not seen on the ascent from
the Notch, being hidden by the dome of Mount Washing-
ton itself. On the Glen path these grand forms tower so
near us that it seems at first as though a strong arm
might throw a stone across the Gulf and hit them. There
should be a resting-place near the edge of the ravine,
where parties could dismount and study these forms at
leisure. Except by climbing to the ridge through the
unbroken wilderness of the northern side, there is no
such view to be had east of the Mississippi of mountain
architecture and sublimity.

The first effect of standing on the summit of Mount
Washington is a bewildering of the senses at the extent
and lawlessness of the spectacle. It is as though we
were looking upon a chaos. The land is tossed into a
tempest. But in a few moments we become accustomed
to this and begin to feel the joy of turning round and
sweeping a horizon-line that in parts is drawn outside of
New-England. Then we can begin to inquire into the
particulars of the stupendous diorama. Northward, if the
air is not thick with haze, we look beyond the Canada
line. Southward, the " parded land " stretches across the
borders of Massachusetts, before it melts into the horizon.
Do you see a dim blue pyramid on the far north-east, look-
ing scarcely more substantial than gossamer, but keeping

■ ■ i.-iH«»i(m»1»,' 'I'" ' f

I i

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

its place stubbornly, and cutting the yellowish horizon
with the hue of Damascus steel ? It is Katahdin looming
out of the central wilderness of Maine. Almost in the
same line on the south-west, and nearly as far away, do
you See another filmy angle in the base of the sky ? It is
Monadnoc, which would feel prouder than Mont Blanc, or
the frost-sheeted Chimborazo, or the topmost spire of the
Himalaya, if it could know that the genius of Mr. Emer-
son has made it the noblest mountain in literature. The
nearer range of the Green Mountains are plainly visible j
and behinU them Camel's Hump and Mansfield tower in
the direction of Lake Champlain. The silvery patch on
the north, that looks at first like a small pond, is Umba-
gog ; a little farther away due south, a section of the mir-
ror of Winnipiseogee glistens. Sebago flashes on the
south-east, and a little nearer, the twin Lovell Lakes, that
lie more prominently on the map of our history than on
the landscape. Next, the monotony of the scene is broken
by observing the various forms of the mountains thai are
thick as " meadow mole-liills " — the great wedge of La-
fayette, the long, thin ridge of Carter, the broad-based
and solid Pleasant Mountain, the serrated summit of Cho-
corua, the beautiful cone of Kearsarge, the cream-colored
Stratford peaks, as near alike in size and shape as two
Dromios. Then the pathways of the rivers interest us.
The line of the Connecticut we can follow from its birth
near Canada to the point where it is hidden by the great
Franconia wall. Its water is not visible ; but often in the
morning a line of fog lies for miles over the lower land,
counterfeiting the serpentine path of its blue water that
boimds two States. Two large curves of the Androscog-
gin we can see. Broken portions of the Saco lie like
lumps of light upon the open valley to the west of Kear-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

ill horizon
n looming
ost in the
' away, do
ky? It is
; Blanc, or
)ire of the
Mr. Emer-
ure. The
[j visible ;
tower in
patch on
is Umba-
f the mir-
s on the
akes, that
than on
is broken
that are
re of La-
ad-based
of Cho-
colored
as two
[rest us.
s birth
e great
in the
land,
T that
oscog-
e like
Kear«

garge. The sources of the Merrimack are on the farther
slope of a mountain that seems to be not more than the
distance of a rifle-shot. Directly under our feet lies the
cold Lake of the Clouds, whose water plunges down the
wild path of the Ammonoosuc, and falls more than a mile
before the ocean drinks it at New-Haven. And in the
sides of the mountain, every wrinkle east or west that is
searched by the sunbeams or cooled by shadows, is the
channel of a bounty that swells one of the three great
streams of New-England. And lastly, we notice the vari-
ous beauty of the valleys that slope off from the central
range. No two of them are articulated with the moun-
tain by the same angles and curves. Stairways of charm-
ing slope and bend lead down into their sweet and many-
colored loveliness and bounty. " ^

The most unfavorable time for visiting the summit is
in the noon of a summer day when the air is hazy. There
are no shadows then, no wonders of color, no vague reaches
of distance. And yet, because the air is genial and the
cone is not vailed by mist, such a day is generally ac-
counted propitious by travelers. It is better to encounter
fogs, or sudden showers, especially if one has never enjoyed
before an unobstructed prospect from the peak, than to
see the landscape spiritless under a solitary noon. Cloud-
effects are the most surprising and fascinating pageants
which the ascent of the mountain can disclose.

THE DELAWARE WATEE GAP.

Brodhead's Kittatinny House is headquarters for the
Delaware Water Gap, being beautifully situated on the side
of the Kittatinny Mountain, and commanding a view of
the mouth of the Gap on one side, and the outline of the
Blue Uidge, with the fertile and beautiful valley of the

LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

I ;1

Delaware, on the other. The season here is always a gay
one, {ind the hotel is ever filled to overflowing.

Winging away from New- York by the Central Railway
)f New-Jersey, leaving the city at 9 a.m., connecting with
ihe Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railway at the
Junction — or by the Delaware and Belvidere road from
Philadelphia, the tourist finds himself, after a ride (through
wild and startling scenery) at a fearful rate of speed around
the base of the mountains, safely lauded, and, at scarcely 1^
o'clock, at the little station at the foot of Kittatinny Moun-
tain. Stages are ready at the depot to convey guests to
the Kittatinny House, and a few moments' ride over the
steep, winding road, and one is standing on the piazza,
greeting friends, or rushing madly toward the office to
secure a *^om or a place to hang up.

If you fail of accommodation at the Kittatinny, tempo-
rary sleeping accommodations may be obtained at the
little Senape House, opposite the depot — a house, by the
way, which can barely be styled a trap to catch travelers,
where the landlord "doesn't take lodgers for Brodhead
when the Kittatinny is full" — and whose husk mat-
tresses and straw pillows would be fully indorsed by any
prison superintendent or almshouse commissioner.

The company at the Kittatinny is quiet but select ; and
while there is no lack of amusement — hops on Saturdays
and excursions every day — with an occasional *•' fair for the
church," in one of which, on a Wednesday and Thursday
of last summer, they realized over $1100 for the benefit
of the Presbyterian chapel, there seems an air of comfort
and sociability seldom or never met with among hotel peo-
ple, except at the Water Gap, or at some such secluded and
semi-occasional retreat. '

Folks here take it quietly and respectabV. There is

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

plenty to see, and one can either take plenty of time to 3ee
it in, or lie can run the whole gauntlet of the sights in the
immediate vicinity between Saturday morning and Mon-
day noon, and yet carry away a complete and satisfactory
idea of the Delaware Water Gap and its surroundings.

" Squire Jones," with his pretty skiff, the Minnehaha, is
always ready to show Water Gap and the river, where, he
the climbing fever at its height, one can go with the guide
up the rugged and dangerous pathway full 1600 feet, and,
standing on the ledge, out of reach of the chilling current
of air from the valley below, obtain a view of moimtain
scenery sufficient to last him a lifetime. Or, take a rest-
ing-place some 300 feet from the base of the Jersey Moun-
tain, with 80 feet depth of green water flowing at its base,
the twin giant of the Pennsylvania Mountain, shaped like
a huge elephant, rising on the opposite side of the gap,
with the brown, forbidding ledges standing out upon its
rugged sides, and the serpentine train of coal-cars winding
slowly abound the base, the train so long that the engine
is lost from view on cne side of the curve before the red
flag signal car at the end of the train is fairly in view from
the other end of the curving roadway.

The places of interest to be seen about the Water Gap
and hidden away among the mountain paths, are, many of
them, connected with the earlier history of tlie region ;
and the number of Indian legends told with the history
of the spear-heads and antique stones in the hotel ofiice,
and of ancient date, are many of them, doubtless, of rather
more than ancient veracity. Still they are legends ; and
the places of Indian history are to be seen and to be ad
mired ; and a more distinct and comprehensive idea can
be had by walking through the mountain paths and over
the ledges of rocks, with the aid of Mr. Brodhead's photo-

t ri'

[/ 5

I.AKE8, EIVEBS, ANB MOCOTAINS.

grapliically illustrated GuitU> n..i. .,,

«->jW of carriage ,^,,^-^^^-^^^^^^^^ '>y an tofl„Ue

Tl>e one great drawback to lit! ^cursioas.

^^ater Gap as a PopuCL ^^ ^1:' *'"' ^•'"'--
datmg spirit of the railway complv B^ "°"-''«''«™"«'-
«ach way, and no other means <^T "'"' *'"''' " ^'^V

'vorld at large, and the gr^at ciLr°"'"''^"°'> ^''"^ "'«
"ews at all on Sunday nullirr '" ^'"'''"'''^' '^'^ »«
Of «uch a place and ^.iT^S^J "' *'*' '"'^"'"«^««
Mr. Brodhcad intends an «! ^ "'* '"'""^ed that

from WYork, and to i:^";™; '" ^^ ^^^^^ -'
npon the controlling spiSs 'I trr , '"''"'' «"««"''"
Among the guests at the holl '^'^''^''""a Bailway.
Yo'-k people, who take the ^ul^" "'"''"^ ""'"^ ^«^-

Having done the Water qZ '" "^ '^"''" '^»^-
can be done in a day or two H "''f* ^'^^^' *" "^ " "'at
W" region shall be neL^l \"'"^ '"'"'^^ "''''^ ^chuyl
splendid valley of the 1'™'/°^' «" «-' -"« the
ta3>ce as we are approacwTLL "'? "'''' '" *^« "^i-
^ountains with their ledgef^!f if '^'^^' """^ *« ^^m old
merging themselves into he Wue'l '""° *'°°« ^-'
we take leave of the Wat^R ^ ""' ""^ *^'« distance
and the falls, and w '^7;*^ ''"'^''Mhe Kittatinny

~y about the ^^.Z^SZL^Z' '"^^

4rtTytsT:rre"^tefiTv''**" ^''P' --J *»«

leave the sullen-looking [wfn l!tl^'"f ^ ^ «""««. -«
-- the Lackawanna road WaTseTvif '"'' ""' ^^^^
Following the winding coarse Jti: r '^ *"<! Easton.

-d, aad through aC^ ' ttS;"' r"^°°*

JeautifulJy undulating

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

L infinite
ions.

Delaware
ic<'.omino-
wn a day
with the
with no
vantages
ned that
ecial car
suasion "
Railway.
ay New-

i it that
Schuyl-
ivith the
the dis-
irim old
me fast
istance,
atinny,
ugged

Id the
pe, we
speed
|.ston.
looth
^ting

country, making connections at Allcntown, we again nes-
tle down among the mountains at a hotel which is merely
a fair sample of the accommodations for which the Schuyl-
kill region seems to be remarkable, and of which the least
said the better.

Over one of the dirtiest, dustiest— and prettiest — roads
in the country, after a ride from Reading, through tunnels
and around curves, at a rate of speed which, while it evin-
ces conf lence in a well-graded and well-ballasted railway,
is nevertheless startling to the quiet-going traveler— we
find ourselves suddenly brought to a stand-still at a depot
built against the side of the hill, at Pottsville, the western
terminus of the Philadelphia and Reading Railway. The
town is a busy one, built upon and between the mountains,
with its streets running at right angles. The smoke from
the furnaces and rolling-mills rising up from among the
hills — ^where every body talks coal or iron, with an occa-
sional digression on church music — and where every one
anxiously inquires the state of the market on coal, arguing
the difference in prices and quality between red and white
ash, " lump," " broken," " Qg^^' " stove," and " chestnut"
— brings to us at once a vivid consciousness that we are in
the Coal Region of Pennsylvania.

The change of scenery from the notches of the Water
Gap to the line of the Reading road and the Schuylkill is
very striking; the one, wild, rugged and brown — the
other, softly beautiful and green, from base to summit.
Dotted about upon the mountain-sides, and breaking in
upon the scenery, are the distant views of coal operations,
with the heavy-timbered breakers looking down upon the
roads below, and the smoke and steam from the engines
and pump moving slowly upward in white and distinct
lines.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Shut in among the hills, and with a high-toned and ra-
ther conservative society, Pottsville is the moneyed centre
of the region, vv^hero the operators generally come to make
their deposits, and, in the times of low prices and high
wages, to get their paper " done " at varied rates of dis-
count ; and the field for the operation of brains and the
use of capital, as shown by the success of the boldest opera-
tors, is one where perseverance is well rewarded and
success Thade certain by energy.

A walk of a mile or more along the canal brings us to
Port Carbon Landing — the grand shipping-point, where
the boats are loaded for New- York and Philadelphia mar-
kets. Here the scene is a busy one, though a pair of white
duck pants and a Panama hat are rather out of order by
way of costume. At the further end of the basin, and at a
convenient intersection of the hundred tracks or more for
the laden and empty coal-cars, stands the office of Mr. John
Medlar, the shipping agent, where reports are made, orders
given, questions answered, the bills of lading made out,
signed, and dispatched. On either side, deep down in the
basin, lie the boats, loaded or awaiting a turn, while others
are receiving their cargoes from the screens and shutes
erected next to the little sentry-box offices of the various
overseers who control the loading as the cars are brought
down, where the dirty-looking boys who are hired by the
miners to pick out slate (and who habitually take pains
not to do so) get their directions where and how to go to
work. Adjacent to the office are the resting-place stables
for the mules, the weighiiig lock, and the dispatcher's
office, whence the boats are sent forward to " order," or a
market.

Back to Pottsville by the dusty road, and stopping in at
the Reading Railway machine-shops at Palo Alto, we take a

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS

3d and ra-
ffed centre
le to make
and high
tea of dis-
s and the
lest opera-
rded and

ings us to
at, where
phia mar-
r of white
order bv
, and at a
' more for
Mr. John
ie, orders
lade out,
n in the
le others
shutes
various
brought
by the
e pains
|o go to
stables
-teller's

or a

Ig in at
take a

look at the rolling mill, whore the men at work before the
heated furnaces, naked about the waist and with dani})oned
cloths bound above thoir foreheads, look like so many
devils hard at work amid the crashing reports and flying
spai'ks and flakes, as the iron is being crushed into shape
between the rollers, or cut by the huge circular saw. Wt
shall study the hotel fare with no dint of satisfaction, and
prepare for an early start for the mines in the morning.

Under the care of a driver who is sutficiently antiquated
in garb and years to be " up " in the windings of a dan
gerous and stony mountain roadway, in the drizzling rain
and fog, wo leave the hotel soon after sunrise, for a visit to
the Girardville Colliery, and o. look at Ashland and the
surroundings. Leaving Pottsville by the main street, we
are soon rumbling along the unever. road, and almost as
soon as we ascend the hill are in sight of the coal opera-
tions about tlie village of Saint Clair. Surrounded on all
sides by great hills of refuse coal, as we descend into the
valley again, the view before us is grand in the extreme.
Meeting at the base, and with the cheery green of the
hills along the railway, variegated by the lines of brown
and black stunted shrubbery and out-croppings of coal, the
magnitude of the immense interests at work, and the
amount of capital invested and labor required, is appa-
rent on all sides. Seven or eight operations — most of
them idle, however, with only the pump working to keep
the water from, gaining — may be seen at one time, and the
increasing size and number of the mountains of useless
coal and dust, somo of them with railways built out upon
them, and trains of small cars drawn by mules, give a
novel and pleasing effect, and some idea of the great means
of wealth of the Schuylkill region.

Not to delay long here, we keep on over a stony and

II nl

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

tirosomo road with pfren^ fiflaures on tlio HuleH, and liun
dredH of feet of stoep prrcipico in convenient i)roxiniity for
tuniblinpf down it. Pasninff one or two abandoned or
" worlved-out " collieries, whore the driver will point out
the spot where a house and its conteni i were swallowed u^)
by the cavin^-in of a mine, the inmates of the building
barely escapin,":? with their lives, wo reach tho foot of the
plane, and are fairly in the centre of the coal reg'on.

As fur as the eye can reach, tho black outline and glis-
teninj]: rails of the Mahanoy and Broad Mountain Railway
mark the course of the operations and tho valley, and
tho rapid descent of a train of laden cars rushing? down the
plane, with the workmen riding up in the empty cars on
tho other track, with the rumble of the coal passing?
throuf^h tho breaker built upon the side of the mountain,
make the scene one of peculiar wildness ; while, prettiest
of all, just at the foot of the road, the white and lilac tinted
outlines of two i)retty houses, built on terraces, and sur-
rounded by flower-beds and overlooking the brook and
trout-pond, point out to us the beautiful though almost
secluded mountain-homo of Mr. Beyers, of the Heading
Railway.

A ride of an hour, tedious and toilsome, over a rough
road, except in crossing the Broad Mountain, brings us
to the little half-village of Girardville, a quiet town to the
right, where a remarkably smooth and prettily shaded i)ath
leads up to the Girardville Manor House, occupied by Mr-
Charles Conner, superintendent at the mine. A corresiwn-
dent of the JVew- York Gazette, visiting the mines last sum-
mer, thus describes his experience, under Mr. Conner's
obliging guardianship :

" Having done the Manor House and garden with a drink
of cold spring water, we accepted Lis offer of the loan of

( •■

IXS.

ilw, and hun
proximity for
.bandonod or
^111 point out
swallowed up
tho building
foot of the

reg'on.
ine and glis-
itain Railway
) valloy, and
ing down the
nipty cars on
coal passing
le mountain,
liile, prettiest
id lilac tinted
^es, and sur-
brook and
)ugli almost

le Reading

^er a rough
brings us
town to the
haded path
•ied by Mr*
correspon-
last sum-
Conner's

[th a drink
le loan of

1 I

■

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

■>•!.•

oil-clotli coats and hats, received most gratefully his sug-
gestion of * thick boots being just the thing/ and went
up into the dirty, ugly-looking breaker, seeing the whole
thing from the platform where the cars are unloaded of
their large blocks of coal, down the steps leading to the
screen for making the various sizes, creeping under the
wooden pipes arranged for washing the chestnut and pea
coal, and then down upon the raihvay beneath, whence
the cars are loaded for the ' landing.'

" Committed to care of Billy, the * Inside Boss/ whom we
found to be a pleasant, chatty old fellow, with flaxen hair,
and a bright, twinkling eye, and decidedly foreign accent,
wo stopped at the entrance of the mine. Agreeably to
Billy's suggestion to get fresh oil in our lamps, as the con-
sequence of groping around in the darkness of a coal mine,
with an extinguished lamp, might not be pleasant, we fol-
lowed him into the opening before us, boldly enough at
the outset, but rather more slowly and cautiously after a
moment's walk, as the faint glimmer of daylight from the
opening was soon lost in the solemn and awful blackness
of the path before us. The sensation, too, of cold, almost
suflBcient to cause a chilling shudder, and the sound of
water splashing about our feet and trickling down from
the roof above us, and down the sides of the ' gangway, '
were not well calculated to inspire confidence in the route
we were about to travel. A short distance in the mine,
we became accustomed to the dampness, and began to see
measurably well, by an attentive pulling up of the cotton
on our lamps, and a little straining of the eyes.

" One of the prettiest effects was the glow and dazzling
brilliancy of the lamps on the miners' hats, some distance
ahead of us, as they bobbed up and down in the darkness,
4ind we were enabled to detect the motions of the miner

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND arOUNTAINS.

i: f

J *

by the rising and falling", and j umping about, of tlie little
star of flame fastened on his cap.

" Further in, we were pulled aside by the guide to allow
a lumbering mule-train to pass, and then, climbing up
through a hole scarce large enough to crawl into, we were
standing upright in a vaulted cavern, with roof, floor, and
sides of glistening coal, with tlie light of our uplifted lamps
tlirown back in hundreds of sparkles from the sharp and
glistening corners of the newly fractured ' Locust Moun-
tain.'

" These openings, which are known as ' brearjts,' vary in
area from 150 to 180 feet, and are known by the technical
name of * runs,' being openings where the coal is worked
by blasting and picks, aside from the main gangways —
and are formed by working the veins from the lower stra-
tum of slate upward, in the direction of the purest vein,
through the second layer of slate wliich lies above it.
Leaving the ' breast,' and still following the course of the
rail-track in the gangway, a glimmer of faint blue light
was seen on one side, and we were cautioned to hold our
lamps high to avoid the current of fresh cold air searching
down into the mine from the long and jagged excavation
for an air-hole, with a patch of daylight looking no longer
than one's hand. Through this we were respectfully
invited to creep on hands and knees, following Billy, if
we saw fit, and were reassured we would find ourselves on
the side of the mountain, a long walk's distance from the
opening.

" As we advanced, the way became more difficult in tra-
veling, and we were fully aware of the necessity of care in
looking above as well as on the sides, from one or two un-
ceremonious bumps from the overhanging masses of coal.
The * breasts ' were still to be seen, though smaller — but ^

»Wk..

AINS.

LAKES, KIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS.

lit, of tlie little

guide to allow
1, climbing' up
1 into, we were
roof, floor, and

uplifted lamps
the sharp and

Locust Moun-

pea:ts,' vary in
the technical
eoal is worked
1 gangways —
the lower stra-
e purest vein,
lies above it.
course of the
int blue light
to hold our
air searching
ed excav^ation
ng no longer
respectfully
ing Billy, if
ourselves on
nee from the

flScult in tra-
ity of care in
e or two un-
sses of coal,
mailer — but

the veins of coal became deeper and purer, and the marks
of heavy blasts in the solid coal were visible on each side,
while an occasional sensation of fatigue and a slight dif-
ficulty in breathing gave good cause for heeding our guide's
admonition, ' Take it easy till the end of the gangway,
and save your breath for the tramp back.'

*' Glad to find ourselves at the end of the path, and aston-
ished to learn that we had walked nearly a mile under
ground and into the side of the rugged mountain above us,
we retraced our steps, following Billy with slow and cau-
tious tread, but yet with no sign of daylight, and the little
twinkling stars of the miner's lights a long way off,
doubly brilliant in the increasing damp and darkness.

" Again we pass the mule train and the group of miners,
but were not allowed to do so till we had ' paid our footing'
to the men — a custom, we believe, to which all visitors are
subject, but which the most knowing ones generally con-
trive to make a light taxation. Having paid tribute, we
were allowed to proceed, through gangways closed by
heavy wooden doors, to arrange and secure a good circu
lation of air ; and then to the second opening, now being
* driven ' — making a steep slope, where the track is being
laid for an almost perpendicular descent into the mines, at
the intersection of the side veins and the present gangway ;
and finally found ourselves, tired, cold, and dirty, with dim-
ly burning lamps and sooty faces and hands, again in day-
light, at the opening of the * drift,' or main entrance.

"Heeding Mr. Conner's injunction not to take off the
coats too suddenly after the cold temperature of the mines,
we thanked old Billy for his courtesy, sent our regards to
his good old woman, the mother of fifteen children, boys
and girls, as he had taken occasion to inform us ; and then
climbed up the hill to the opening of the * Buck Mountain

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

.» t

Vein ' Colliery, soon to be in operation, secured specimens
of * peacock,' or variegated coal, and washed off at the
cooling spring at the Manor House — having taken a trip
underground that your correspondent doesn't care to take
often, yet, having taken it, does not regret, and, with a
pleasant ' good day' from the Superintendent, rode hack,
tired and damp."

HARRISBURG AND VICINITY. ^

The natural scenery of Pennsylvania is unusually diver-
sified and beautiful. About one fourth of her territory is
occui)ied by mountain ranges, some of which are at least
2000 feet above the level of the sea. These ranges of
mountains extend over a breadth of 200 miles, including
many fruitful valleys and charming waters, and iron and
coal deposits that are unequaled in any other State in the
Union.

From New- York City the most direct route to Pennsyl-
vania, is via the Central New-Jersey or AUentown Railway,
from the foot of Liberty street. By stopping at th-e Junc-
tion, 59 miles from New- York, and taking the Delaware
and Lackawanna cars, the tourist may reach the Delaware
Water Gap, whose wondrously beautiful scenery is worth
looking at, (see article thereon,) or may proceed to Scran-
ton and Wilkesbarre, in the Valley of the Wyoming, on
the north branch of the Susquehanna River, and at leisure
explore the surrounding coal-fields or review the scenes of
Campbell's exquisite poem of Gertrude of Wyoming.

If the tourist desire to reach the more central or south-
ern parts ot the State, he may continue in the Central
New-Jersey cars to Easton, a thriving place at the forks of
the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers. About 18 miles west
of Eas-ton is the quaint Moravian village of Bethlehem,

INS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOU.NTAINS.

red specimens
3d off at the
: taken a trip
't care to take
t, and, with a
nt, rode back,

usually diver-
er territory is
li are at least
3se ranges of
les, including
and iron and
r State in the

to Pennsyl-
)wn Railway,
at th-e Junc-
le Delaware
le Delaware
ery is worth
ed to Scran-
/"yoming, on
tid at leisure
he scenes of
ming.
al or south-
he Central
he forks of
miles west
ethlehem,

founded by Count Zinzendorf, in 1741, and containing a
church capable of seating 2000 persons. A few miles west
of tliat is Allentown, built upon high ground near the Le-
high River. There are mineral springs there which are
greatly prized for the efficacy of their waters.

Reading, the gieiit centre of the iron interest of Penn-
sylvania, is but 20 miles beyond Allentown. It is a thriv-
ing city, situated in the midst of a very interesting land-
scape, with railways leading to the surrounding coal and
iron mines, which carry to her doors veins of inexhausti-
ble wealth.

Harrisburg, the capital of the State, is 54 miles west of
Reading by railway, on the east bank of the Susquehanna
River. From the dome of the State House an extended
view can be had of the winding river, its beautiful islands,
its numerous handsome bridges, and the surrounding
mountains. Taking Harrisburg as a centre, the pleasure-
seeker will find a variety of resorts to choose from, either
or all of which will prove attractive.

Toward Pittsburg he will find Mifflinton, Lewistown,
Huntingdon, Hollidaysburg, and Altoona, all east of the
Alleghany Mountains, and in the beautiful and picturesque
valley of the Juniata. If he affects the grand and rugged
in mountain scenery at high altitudes, let him go to the
Summit, where unequaled panoramas of God's works will
reward his effort ; and if i»t please him, he may examine
the result of man's labor in subduing nature to his uses in
constructing the inclined plane for transporting merchan-
dise across the mountain.

Or, from Harrisburg he may proceed by railway directly
• up the Susquehanna River to Sunbury and Northumber-
land, two quiet villages, surrounded by beautiful scenery,
and thence up the West Branch to Lewisburg, Milton,

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

! I

( r

^ f

Williamsport, and Lock Haven, all of which have great at-
tractions for the tourist.

Starting again from Harrisburg, we cross the Cumber-
land Valley Ridge and proceed direct tu the ancient town I
of York, thence to Swiser's Station, and from thence to
Gettysburg, where the decisive battle of the rebellion!
was fought. The National Cemetery and battle-field will
always prove attractive to the visitor. Katalysine Water
is also dispensed at Gettysburg for the cure of invalids.

Starting for the fourth time from Harrisburg, we take
the Cumberland Valley Railway and proceed to Carlisle,
a pleasant town; the seat of Dickinson College, an excel-
lent institution, under the care of the Methodist denomi-
nation. Here, too, the United States has a barracks for
training troops, which, before the rebellion, was commanded,
by General Lee, who was, therefore, enabled to familiarize
himself with the strategetic points of the surrounding
country. Thirty-one miles west is Chambersburg, which,
previous to the war, was regarded the most beautiful town
of the State. It received the particular attention of the
rebels, who set fire to it, and consumed tw i millions of
dollars' worth of property. It has since been closely re-
built, wearing the appearance of a city rather than that of
the rural village of the past, with fine houses surrounded
by beautiful flower and vegetable-gardens, and all the evi-
dences of material comfort. Mine host of the National
Hotel will make all guests comfortable, and visitors will
find that the vicinity abounds in beautiful scenery, with
most superb roads for riding and driving. At the base of
the neighboring mountain, valuable mineral springs are
much patronized by invalids seeking health. A very few
miles west of Chambersburg is Mount Parnell, from which
most extended views of the adjoining villages may be

. r

A.1NS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

[i have great at-

ss the Cumber-

le ancient town

from thence to

f the rebellion

battle-field will

ialysine Water

e of invalids.

sburg, we take

eed to Carlisle,

>llege, an excel-

hodist denomi-

a barracks for

vas commanded

id to familiarize

le surrounding

irsburg, which,

beautiful town

tention of the

|wi millions of

leen closely re-

er than that of

les surrounded

,nd all the evi-

tlie National

visitors will

scenery, with

t the base of

1 springs are

A very few

.1, from which

lages may be

had. In a clear atmosphere the scene is said to be beau-
tiful and grand beyond description.

WILLIAMSTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS.

Williamstown is tho last village on the north-western
border of tho State of Massachusetts, being only 2 miles
distant from Pownal, Vermont, and about the same dis-
tance from the New- York lino. Beautiful as a village,
lesting upon and between two hills, and surrounded on all
sides by the magnificent Berkshire mountains, it is most
attractive as a point of departure for a great number of
delightful retreats, out of the dry and dusty track of the
professional tourist. It stands at a considerable altitude,
and boasts the purest of mountain air — a great inducement
to the young men who flock from all sections to the ancient
college situated in and giving name to the village, founded
under bequest of Colonel Ephraim Williams, in 1785.

The Mansion House, A. G. Bailey, proprietor, is at present
the only public house ; though limited facilities for obtain-
ing board in private families exist. The hotel is open the
year round, and can accommodate 125 guests. Commence-
ment week at Williams College comes with the first Wed-
nesday in August, after or before which the place is plea-
santly quiet. There are telegraph and mail facilities.
Terms at the hotel, $3 per day for less than two weeks,
and $10 to $15 per week by the season.

Williamstown may be reached from New- York by at least
9 rlifferent routes, the best of which are : by People's Line
steamers to Troy, arriving 6 A.M. ; Troy and Boston Rail-
way to Williamstown direct, arriving at 10 o'clock — stage
to hotel 1 mile : or by Hudson River or Harlem Railway,
etc. : or by New- York and New-Haven Railway, 8 a.m., to
Bridgeport; thence by Housatonic Railway (through the

^■^^W^WWIlffTT

li.

! (

1 !

'■i

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

beautiful valley of that name) to Pittsfield, 5 P.M. ; Pitts
field and North- Adams Railway', 20 miles, 3 hours; staof(
from Adams to Williamstown, 5 miles, arriving at Mansion]
House 8^ P.M. Fare by the New- York route, river (witlil
berth and meals on boat) and rail, $4.95 ; by Housatonic,
not over $5, purchasing tickets at New- York for Pittsfield, |
and at Pittsfield for Williamstown direct through.

The chief attractions of the neighborhood of Williams-
town are as follows :

To those disposed or obliged to confine their wander-
ings near headquarters, there is Williams College with its
ancient and classical memories, geological museum, gym-
nasium, (affording excellent bowling privileges, generally
available,) and library ; Flora's Glen, s, pretty enough ram-
ble up the wooded banks of a mountain brook, where the
poet Bryant, when a Sophomore in college, wrote Hiana-
topsis; Sand Spring, a chalybeate bath, 2 mUes on the
Pownal road; and some fishing in the Green river or
rivulet, ^ of a mile from the hotel. To the more active
visitor there are equal attractions : Snow Hole, a rugged
mountain ride of some 10 miles, to a great fissure where
stubborn snow delights the eye in any month of summer ;
the " great bore of Massachusetts," Hoosack Tunnel, the
American rival of Mont Cenis, 4 miles long — (to be and to
be finished — when ?) distant about 7 miles, a little beyond
North- Adams ; the Revolutionary localities on the road
thither, not to add the great paper and woolen factories ;
the Natural Biidge ; the Cascades, a beautiful silver thread
of water falling 30 feet, half-way to Adams ; but chiefly,
the ride and visit to Lebanon Springs (Shakers) and
Sliaker Village, 20 to 30 miles to the south-east, and the
grand mountain scenery. Perhaps the easiest mountain
to ascend which commands a great view is Berlin, reached

'AINS.

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

d, 5 P.M. ; Pitts-
2 hours ; stage;

ring at Mansion

ute, river (with
by Housatonic,

'k for Pittsfield,

liroug^h.

)d of Williams-

) their wander-
college with its
museum, gym-
eges, generally
by enough ram-
•ook, where the
, wrote Thana-
\ mUes on the
jfreen river or
le more active
lole, a rugged
fissure where
,h of summer ;
Ik Tunnel, the
(to be and to
little beyond
on the road
|len factories ;
silver thread
but chiefly,
hakers) and
east, and the
st mountain
frlin, reached

by a very precipitous carriage-road of about 10 miles in all
from the hotel. The neighboring peaks, from 2500 to 3500
feet high, and the interjacent valleys, afford miniature
Alpine views, too, and the outstretched landscape of Massa-
chusetts adds the needed beautiful contrast. Greylock
Mountain, distant 4 miles, difficult of access, is the highest
peak in Massachusetts, 3500 feet. It is commonly consid-
ered inaccessible for ladies ; but gentlemen form parties and
camp out over-night on its summit, enjoying a peculiarly
fine view at sunrise. Much of the ascent of the mountain
itself must be made on foot, though the roads to the base
are fine. There was formerly a tower on the top, now
wantonly destroyed ; but with little difficulty the tree-tops
are surmounted to obtain the far-reacliing view which richly
rcj)ays every beholder.

THE RUTLAND AND BURLINGTON RAILWAY.

In the article entitled Williamstown, Mass., we call
attention to the charming rural scenery which one may
enjoy in every direction from that village as a centre. The
route thither diverges at Eagle Bridge from the great
northern trunk route of travel. This latter we now pro-
pose to pursue as foT as Burlington, whence the sketches
of Lake CnAMPLAiN and Mansfield and Memphrema-
GOG will direct the reader northward through the remain-
der of the State of Vermont.

Bennington. — The town of Bennington is situated in
the south-western part of the State of Vermont, adjoining
the New- York line on the west, and with only one town
(Pownal) between it and the Massachusetts lino on the
south. It derives its name from Benning Went worth,
provincial governor of New-Hampshire, and the grantor of
the charter under which, in 1761, the town was originally

i>y ]■

■u

I I-

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

orfvanizcd. There arc at present three villapfes in the
town, containing, in 1800, with tlio remainder of the town,
4392 inhabitants. The oldest villajQfo, now called Bennhi^
ton Centre, is the Benninp^on of Kcvolutionary farno ; the
village now known by that name not having come into
existence till many years later. These are 1 mile apart,
and are about 5 miles from the other, North-Bennington,
also a comparatively new village. Bennington is more
than 800 feet above tide-water, and being so close to the
mountains, is, to one accustomed to the heat of the city,
never hot. The thermometer seldom rises to 90, and this
only for a few days at a time. The nights are almost
invariably cool, the mercury sinking rapidly with the sun.
Among the many objects of interest in the old village, is
the once famous " Catamount Tavern," where the " Coun-
cil of Safety," the then only government of the State, held
its sittings ; the " Council Room " being still preserved
intact. The tavern took its name from a stuffed catamount
grinning defiance at neighboring New- York from the top
of a pole in its front. New- York and New-Hampshire at
that time both claimed jurisdictioi_ over the territory
which was then known as the New-Hampshire Grants.
The inhabitants acknowledged allegiance to New-Hamp-
shire, but denied in most emphatic terms the claims of
New- York ; so there was a quarrel which lasted almost
from the first settlement of the State until it was admitted
into the Union, in 1791. To defend their claims against
New- York, the " Green Mountain Boys " were organized,
with Ethan Allen as their leader. Here, at "Landlord
Fay's," they had their headquarters, Allen's house being
the next adjoining, and still standing. Under Allen's lead-
ership they became famous, and soon after the outbreak of
hostilities with Great Britain, were organized into a regi-

AINS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

t'illapfes in tlio
Icr of the town,
called Bennhiff-
mary fame ; tlic
ving come into
re 1 mile apart,
rtli-Bcnnington,
ington is more
so close to the
cat of the city,
I to 90, and this
:hts are almost
ly with the sun.
le old village, is
ere the "Coun-
' the State, held
still preserved
ifFed catamount
•k from the top
v-Hampshire at
the territory
psliire Grants.
o New-Hamp-
tlie claims of
lasted almost
was admitted
claims against
ere organized,
at "Landlord
Is house being
T Allen's lead-
le outbreak of
kd into a regi-

mcnt, with Scth Warner as colonel, anci, conjointly with
Stark's troops, won the Battle of Bennington, August 10th,
1777. The battle-ground is not in this village, nor, indeed,
in the town of Bennington, nor State of Vermont, but in
Iloosack, the adjoining town in the State of New- Yolk. It
can be distinctly seen from the Observatory mentioned
hereafter, and the exact spot is pointed out where John
Stark stood when he made the famous address to his
troops : "See there, men ! there are the red-coats ! Before
to-night they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow I"

ISIount Anthony is the chief natural object of interest in
this vicinity. It stands 3 miles behind the Mount Anthony
House, on a by-path, and 4| miles by carriage-road. A
to^ver was erected on the summit in 1864, 100 feet high ;
from this, one of the finest views of Vennont is to be had.
There are accommodations for man and beast at this obser-
vatory.

Bennington also boasts fine drives, among which Peters-
burg and Prospect Mountains are sought, affording delight-
ful views. On the road beyond Prospect, at Woodford, we
nass the Big Pond, a beautiful sheet of water. Just above
it, on the first eminence of the road, we cross the water-
shed dividing the valleys of the Hudson and the Connecti-
cut, at a point 2600 feet above tide- water.

Besides these attractions, there is good trout-fishing in
the Green Mountain streams hereabout.

Chief hotel, the Mount Anthony House, Messrs. Rogers
& Nutting, proprietors ; rooms for 200 guests ; trains "3
times daily; station distant 3 minutes' walk. Time to
Troy, 1 J hours. Route from New- York, Hudson River by
boat or rail to Troy ; thence to Bennington, by Troy and
Boston, etc.

Manchester. — The village of Manchester dates from

If'^

isiM

ill

1 1

LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTATNS.

tlio year 1701 , and boasts many brilliant Revolutionary me-
mories, which form a pleasing contrast to its present quaint
and quiet ap[)earanco. It is situate in a valley between th<^
(Jreen and P^tjuinox mountain ranges, distant 50 miJ ^s north
from 'J Toy, 80 south from Rutland, and 40 north-east from
Saratoga, on the Bennington and Rutland Railway. The
plcasantest methods of approach from New- York City are
by the 10 A.M. train from Thirtieth street, or the People's
lino steamboat, at 6 P.M. ; fare, about $G. During some
portion of last summer, an unpleasant change at Iloosack
was made necessary by the railway quarrels common to
Western Vermont, and passengers were compelled to reach
Bennington from Iloosack (4 miles) by horse-cara ; but
these annoyances are seldom left without speedy settle-
ment.

The village is quiet and beautiful, particularly notice
able for its white marble pavements, taken from the
abounding quarries near by. The telegraph and mail
facilities are complete, and the stranger finds excellent
provision for rest and refreshment at the Equinox House,
situated at the base of Equinox Mountain ; this hotel is
open from June until December,

The chief attractions of Manchester are in its mountain
scenery, its fishing and drives, etc. The " Equinox Com-
pnny" has stocked several artificial ponds half a mile from
the hotel with trout ; and besides these, several natural
lakes afford a variety for the angler. The village and all
its environs boast fine roads, among which is one leading
to the house upon the summit of Mount Equinox.

Mount Dorset is an almost wholly isolated peak of tlio
Green Mountain range, 5 miles north of the village. Its
eastern side is dotted wdth valuable quarries of white mar-
ble; the south is noted for an extensive cave, contain-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND SIOUNTAINS.

)lutionarymo-
>re8ont quaint
y between tln^
50 miJ ^8 north
:)rtli-ea8t from
ailway. Tlio
York City are
r the People's
During some
rro at Iloosack
l8 common to
)ellecl to reach
^rse-cars ; but
speedy settle-

cularly notice
en from the
,ph and mail
inds excellent
[uinox House,
this hotel is

its mountain

^quinox Com-

If a mile from

reral natural

lllage and all

one leading

lOX.

[peak of the

Tillage. Its

If white mar-

Lve, contain-

ing five chambcn-s, three or four passages, a spring of
water, etc. Stratton Gap in a beautiful gk'n following the
precipitous course of a rivulet, made memorable by Mr. A.
B. Dunvnd, of New- York, in one of his finest paintings.

But the crowning glory of the place is Mount Ecjuinox
itself. From its summit, 2917 feet above the village and
8813 above tide-water, may be seen, upon clear days,
Lakes George and Cham plain, the Franconia (and Kear-
sarge) Mountains of New-llampshirc, Graylock, tl:<' Lighi^st
peak in Massachusetts, Killington Mountain, third in Ver-
mont, and the Catskills, and Saratoga Village, in New-York.
Half-way up the southern side is a table-rock, affording
a fine view of the subjacent valley ; and on the southern
side is Skinner Hollow, a deep indentation in the moun-
tain, appearing like a vast amphitheatre, containing far
within its recesses a marble quarry, a cave which holds
the winter snow throughout the year, and a stream which
mysteriously seeks its outlet through a neighboring
cavern. These, with other attractions in nature, render
Manchester a very pleasing and popular resort.

PouLTNEY. — The village of Poultney, of some 2200
souls, on the Rutland and Washington road or division, 67
miles from Troy, affords many attractions as a summer
retreat. The gravelly soil renders the roads for miles in
all directions superior for i)leasure rides to macadamized
roads. The scenery of mountain and valley is varied and
picturesque. The air is dry and pure, and especially favor-
able to those afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Sum-
mer board can be obtained during July and August at (the
Rev. J. Newman's) Ripley College. The localities interest
ing to visit in the vicinity are Lake Austin, Lake Bomba
zine, Bird Mountain, Rutland, Hydesville, Castleton, West
Castleton, Fairhaven, Granville, and the quarries both of
slate and of marble.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTAINS.

',M

Lake Bombazine, mostly in the town of Castleton, is a
beautiful sheet of water, 9 miles lon^. Those fond of boating
and fishing, may here find ample opportunity for their favor-
ite sport. Bass, both Oswego and rock, pickerel and perch
are abundant. Mr. Heath keeps the hotel at Hydeville
and a boat-house at Heath's Ferry. Larned's House is
also at Heath's Ferry. The works of the West-Castleton
Slate Company, situated on the western shore of Lake
Bombazine, are the most extensive of their kind in this
country. Slate in the largest slabs and of the best quality
is qrtarried here, wrought into a great variety of forms,
and marbleized to imitate different kinds of marble. The
ride from Poultney to West-Castleton and return presents
a beauty and variety of scenery seldom equaled.

At Lake Austin is the Saint Catherine House, C. W.
Potter, proprietor, to be addressed at Wells, Vt, This
hotel opens June 18th, 1868. Visitors for Lake Austin stop
at Granville, N. Y., or Poultney, Vt., station.

Rutland. — Rutland, Vt., 85 miles from Troy, 67 from
Burlington, is a county-seat with some 8000 inhabitants.
Hotels, Bardwell and Central, both near the depot. The
village is an important one upon our route, not less than
four railways making it a station. There is a restaurant
in the large and commodious, if not elegant, depot. The
visitor will first be struck with the peculiar appearance
which the streets present, on account of their being paved
with white marble. The quarries, near by, will abun-
dantly repay one for a visit. The summit of the hill uj^on
which Rutland stands affords a fine view. Otter Creek
passes through the village. There are a number of inter-
esting localities which the tourist may visit from Rutland
as his headquarters.

Kiilington Peak, called the third mountain of Vermont,

NS.

^astletun, is a
md of boating
for their favor-
irel and percli

at Hydeville
ed's House is
Vest-Castleton
jliore of Lake
• kind in tins
le best quality
iety of forms,
marble. The
eturn i^resents
ded.

House, C. W.
lis, Vt, This
ke Austin stop

Troy, 67 from
lO inhabitants.
|e depot. The
not less than
s a restaurant
, depot. The
r appearance
r being paved
y, will abun-
the hill upon
Otter Creek
mber of inter-
Ifrom Rutland

Glen LiUs Falls. White Mountains.

of Vermont,

." 1

LAKES, RIVE.IS, AND MOUNTAINS.

rises on the eastern side of the village, and is the most
important, perhaps, of the many notable spots hereabout.
To the foot of the mountain the distance is 7 miles, and 2
miles more to the summit. On the north side is a perpen-
dicular ledge of 200 feet, called Capitol Rock. Mount Ida,
too, is not far off, beyond Killington Peak, as seen from
Itutland, and northward are Mount Pico and Castleton
Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake Champlain.

Clarendon Springs, a favorite place of resort, is a few
miles south of Rutland, on the Rutland and Washington
Railway. Stages run from West-Rutland Station, 4 miles
south of Rutland. The medicinal virtues of these waters,
the varied and beautiful scenery, the pleasant drives
around, and the excellent hotel accommodations, make
this watering-place a very desirable summer halt.

MiDDLEBURY. — The oldest college in the State of Ver-
mont, founded 1800, (commencement second week in
August,) gives a classic appearance to the pleasant town
of Middlebury, situated on one of the numerous falls of
Otter Creek. The principal fall of this stream, 40 feet
high, bears the distinctive title of its parent, and is at
Vergennes, about 7 miles from Lake Champlain, 46 miles
from Rutland, and 21 miles from Burlington.

The Addison House, at Middlebury, is a large and excel-
lent country hotel, and is a favorite point of departure for
a very interesting region of Vermont. Lake Castleton,
Belden's Falls, Elgin Springs, etc., are but a short distance
away. Carriages may be had at reasonable rates.

Lake Dunmore, 8 miles by stage, is a wonderfully pic-
turesque lake, 5 miles long and 3 wide, surrounded at
most points by bold hills, and containing plenty of fish
A good summer liotel and several cottages tempt the
tourist to delay his departure indefinitely.

Univcrsrtd • Ottawa • Un/versitjj
Map Ubrary

100

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Bkandon is just mid way (16 miles) from Rutland and
Middlebuiy. It is interesting for its mineral resources ;
particularly, the tourist will visit two caverns of limestone,
tlie largest containing two apartments, each from 16 to 20
feet square. The entrance is 20 feet below the surface.

Saint Alban's. — On the direct route between Burling-
ton and Montreal, stands St. Alban's, Vt. The Welden
House, Messrs. Cool & McDonald, is a large and first-class
hotel, with a sulphur spring within its control. The
scenery near Saint Alban's is considered unequaled, espe-
cially a view from the summit of Aldis Hill and Bellevue.
The village itself is very attractive, and by some is called
the most beautiful in this State. The famous rebel raid
from Canada here took place, Oct. 19th, 1864.

il {

If !'

MOGSILAUEE MOUNTAIN, WAKEEN, N. H.

Moosilauke Mountain can be reached by one of the re-
gular lines of communication northward by rail. Leaving
Concord, N. H., via Concord and Montreal Railway, a few
hours' ride brings you to the little town of Warren. Here
excursionists will find accommodations for the ascent of
the mountain, which can be accomplished on foot or horse-
back. The proprietor of the Prospect House, on the sum-
mit of the mountain, usually accompanies travelers in
their ascent, entertaining them with wild and fantastic
stories of bears and wolves — certainly he has a natural
faculty of imparting a good deal of the genial nature
within to those natures without. He believes " it of no
use to tell a story, unless you call the mind into action.^*

Viewed from the south side of the town, Moosilauke
presents two peaks bold, bald, and distinct. Standing upon
the highest of these and turning around slowly upon your
heel, the eye comprehends, to the northward, the Valley

*^.i

INS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

101

Rutland and
ral resources;
3 of limestone,
from 16 to 20
he surface,
veen Burling-
The Welden
and first-class
control. The
equaled, espe-
and Bellevue.
some is called
)us rebel raid

J, N. H.
one of tlie re-
•ail. Leaving
ailway, a few
/"arren. Here
lie ascent of
foot or liorse-
, on the sum-
travelers in
nd fantastic
as a natural
enial nature
es " it of no
to action."
Moosilauke
nding upon
upon your
, the Valley

of the Connecticut and the table-lands of Canada ; to the
eastward, the finest possible view of the White and Fran-
conia Mountains ; to the southward, the ocean, dimly fleck-
I ' ing the horizon ; to the westward, the rolling Green Moun-
\'' tains of Vermont, with Camel's Hump and Mount Marcy
of the Catskill Range, New- York.

Moosilauke, from its height and isolated position, com-
mands many advantages over all other mountains in New-
England. The view from Mount Washington is more
grand, no doubt. But the surrounding peaks shut down
close and allow you no distance, the charm of mountain
Bcenery. Moosilauke has every thing her own way. No
high cliffs say to you, " Thus far, and no farther." The
very best time for ascending the mountain is in a storm.
A clear summer's day, " tenderly illumined," is very fine
[ indeed.

WILLOUGHBY LAKE.

In the town of Westmore, in Northern Vermont, 30
miles from the Canada line, and 350 from New- York
City, is Willoughby Lake, whose scenery geologically
resembles that of the Yo Semite Valley in California.
The lake is 6 miles long, the northern end curving a
little to the east, and from a half to 2 miles wide. Its
depth is so great that no reliable measurement has been
made. Between the mountains, in the narrowest place,
where the water is the deepest, it has been sounded to the
depth of 600 feet, and no bottom was found. On either
side rises a huge mountain to more than 2000 feet. Mount
Willoughby, on the east side, being 2638 feet above the
lake, and 3800 feet above the sea. A carriage-road was
constructed several years ago along the eastern shore, from
which may be had a better view of the mighty grandeur

102

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

! k

•I! t

\'i

of Mount Willougliby than from any other point near its
base. For nearly 2 miles a perpendicular wall of granite
rock, intermingled with silicious limestone, rises to the
height of GOO feet, while below, between it and the lake,
the side of the mountain, more than 1000 feet in height,
covered with huge rocks, is little less than perpendicular
to the summit.

Leaving the hotel j ust south of the lake, you enter the
woods, and after a walk of 2 miles through the forest of
maple, beech, and spruce, passing two springs of the purest
and coldest of water, you reach the summit, and obtain a
grand view. East are the Franconia and White Moun-
tains; the Tip-Top House of Mount Washington being
easily seen with a glass in a clear day. West is the entire
range of the Green Mountains, among which can be seen
the summits of Killington Peak, Camel's Hump, Mount
Mansfield, and Jay Peak. Between these two great moun-
tain ranges, and within your vision, are ponds, wide forests,
cultivated fields, farm-houses, and villages, forming a
magnificent scene. Next, going further to the west, and
approaching close to the precipice, you look down upon
the lake, 2500 feet below. The purity and ''ansparency of
the water of the lake is here observed. Along its shores,
for several miles, every rock and sunken log can be seen.
From here is a view of the entire length of the lake, the
eastern shore of which seems almost in a straight line.
Mount Hor, on the west side, and Mount Willoughby on
the east, have the appearance of once having been U7iited.

The walks and drives around Willoughby are numerous
and pleasant. That down the lake shore, under the frown-
ing walls of Mount Willoughby, will first claim attention.
The scenery down the entire length of the lake is grand
and beautiful, although not so rugged as it is before reach-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 103

)r point near its
wall of granite
ne, rises to the
it and tlie lake,
3 feet in lieiglit,
a. perpendicular

e, you enter the
o-h the forest of
igs of the purest
lit, and obtain a
d White Moun-
ishington being
''est is the entire
iiich can be seen
3 Hump, Mount
two great moun-
ids, wide forests,
ges, forming a
to the west, and
ook down upon
^ansparency of
long its shores,
Off can be seen,
of the lake, the
a straight line.
Willoughby on
ng been wiited.
)y are numerous
mder the frown-
claim attention,
le lake is grand
is before reacli-

•m

incr Point of Rocks. The distances from the hotel to othei
places of interest, are : Island Pond, where there is a grand
hotel, 20 miles ; Newport, by team, 20 ; Derby Line, 22 ;
Stanstead Plain, 23; Saint Johnsbury, 22^; Barton, 11;
West-Charleston, 10 ; Burke Mountain, 10 ; West-Burke.
[6; Newark, 6.

On the road to Barton, about a mile and a half east ot
the depot, is the Flume. The stream from May's Pond
passes through it, descending into Crystal Lake. In the
Bolid granite rock is a passage-way for the water, 140 feet
long, 10 feet wide, and from 20 to 30 feet in depth. The
walls rise almost perpendicularly, and are as smooth as if
cut by the hand of man. Some utilitarian has constructed
0> saw-mill over it, and turned it to practical account, thus
ilgreatly marring its beauty. It is, however, well worth
visiting.

Plunket Falls, in Clyde River, at Charleston, 12 miles
I from Willoughby Lake House, are exceedingly beautiful.
i Here the river makes a descent of 100 feet in a half-mile,
and at one point below the saw-mill it makes almost a per-
pendicular fall of 30 feet. Another favorite ride from the
hotel is to Newark Hill, from which can be seen the
White and Green Mountain ranges.

Hotel. — Excepting a summer residence, built by a
gentleman of Newark, N. J., and the houses of the hotel,
there are no buildings in the vicinity of Willoughby Lake.
The place is, therefore, commendable chiefly to families
desiring a quiet summer retreat, surrounded by the best
of mountain and lake scenery, and withdrawn from the
noisy centres of travel. The Willoughby Lake House has
accommodations for 50 to 100 boarders, at rural terms.
Proprietor, Mr. Alonzo Bemis. Carriages wait at West
Burke Railway Station, 6 miles distant. Lake Memphre-

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104

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

magog is 28 miles north of West-Burke, and White Rivei
Junction 77 i?outh. The hotel is supplied with pure, cold
spring water, brought in pipes from the hillside. From
the hotel it runs north into the lake, and thence into Lake
Memphremagog and the Saint Lawrence. About 20 rods
in the rear of the hotel is a little lakelet, which discharges
into a small stream running south into the Passumpsic,
and thence into the Connecticut. It is situated so near the
water-shed between Long Island Sound and the Saint Law-
rence, that a few hours' work would change its outlet from
the Connecticut to the Saint Lawrence.

Route. — From New- York, by New-Haven, Worcester,
and Springfield, and Connecticut River Railways; from
Boston, by Cheshire Railway to Bellows Falls ; tlience by
Connecticut and Passumpsic Railway to West-Burke
Station, where the hotel carriages may be found.

UP >LAK£ SUPERIOR.

The most varied summer trip that can be taken in this
country is up Lake Superior, across the wilderness to Saint
Paul, and down the Mississippi River. It requires four or
six weeks, and costs each tourist not far from $300, includ
ing hotel and all expenses. We know every inch of the
way, and can assure pleasure and health-seekers that they
can nowhere find safer or more inspiring recreation.

The best months in the year for the Lake Superior trip
are July and August. During September there are very
likely to be gales upon the lakes. The tourist can take the
boat at Cleveland or Detroit, and will be about 5 days in
reaching Ontonagon, where most of the boats stop, or C
to Superior City, the extreme end of the lake, and where
the steamer Keweenaw alone goes. The fare is about $30
from Cleveland, which includes state-room, board, and

\.INS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS.

105

,d White Rivei
with pure, cold |
lillside. From |
lence into Lake
About 20 rods
hich discharges
he Passuiiipsic,
ated so near the
I the Saint Law-
} its outlet from

iren, Worcester,
Railways; from
ills; thence by
to West-Burke
found.

}G taken in this
.erness to Saint
•equires four or
|m $300, includ
jery inch of tho
ekers that they
creation.
e Superior trip
[there are very
Lst can take the
|.bout 5 days in
^oats stop, or 6
ike, and where
•e is about $30
L, board, and

every thing. The names of tho boats for the year 1868 are

as follows : Northwest, Capt. Kirtland ; Keweenaw, Capt.

■* Stewart; Meteor, Capt. Wilson; Northern Light, Capt.

sMurch; Concord, Capt. Mclntyre. The Northwest will

irun between Detroit and Portage, leaving Detroit every

'^Tuesday evening. This steamer will make occasional cx-

•IBursion trips about the north shore of Lake Superior. Tho

other steamers wall run from Cleveland to Ontonagon, 150

miles below Superior City. The Keewenaw will run to tho

Htter place. The round trip will occupy 2 weeks. A

iSleamer will leave Detroit every Thursday and Saturday.

jI Very many, in fact the majority of lake tourists, make

like round trip on the same steamer. This costs only

#out $00, and is really very delightful. The steamers

re staunch and elegant, and life upon them is varied by

lucli that is pleasant.

The navigation of the upper lakes is as safe as traveling
any part of the country. Very erroneous impressions

:ist with regard to this matter, because of several disas-.

jrs which occurred during autumn gales. The very
Itrongest vessels are built for the line, and the most expert
officers are placed in charge. We know enough of the plea-
lures of the lake trip to assure tourists that they will be de-
lighted beyond measure. It is an uncommon, rather than

common thing, for tourists by the steamers to be sea-sick.

After leaving Detroit, the tourist passes through Lake
Jahit Clair, on the shores of which are many elegant resi-
lences. There is nothing of special interest till you have
grossed Lake Huron and arrived at the great ship-canal in the
Jaint Mary's River. Twenty miles below you pass Church's
sanding, noted for "raspberry-jam " and Indian curiosities.

Under River Settlement is an Indian village 10 miles be-

)w. At the Saut Sainte Marie, or " Soo," as every body in

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100

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

the West calls it, the rapids in the river that unite Laki
Huron and Superior descend 20 feet in a mile, totally ol
structing navigation. The ship-canal, however, which hn
recently been constructed on the American side, obviate
this difficulty. Steamers of a large class now pass throug
the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade an
commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantl
situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a cour
house and jail ; a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roma
Catholic church; 2 hotels, and 15 or 20 stores and store
houses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, an(
about 1200 inhabitants. Many of the inhabitants and In
dians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur trade and fisli
eries, the latter being an important and profitable occupa
tion. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lak(
Superior country for health and pleasure. The Chippewt
House, a well-kept hotel on the American side, and one on
the Canadian side of the river, both aflbrd good accommo
dations.

Fort Brady is an old and important United States mill
tary post contiguous to this frontier village, where aru
barracks for a full garrison of troops. It commands the
Saint Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of tlie
canal.

Saut Sainte Marie, Ontario, is a scattered settlement,!
where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Heroj
is a steamboat landing, a hotel, and 2 or 3 stores, including |
the lludson Bay Company's ; and it has from 500 to 600 in
habitants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in tlio
vicinity in considerable numbers, they having the exclusive
right to take fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids,
They also employ themselves in running the rapids in theii
frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers.

TAINS.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 107

that unite Lakes
I mile, totally ob
vvever, wliicli has
;aii side, obviates
low pass througli
itating trade and
side is pleasantly
contains a court-
iist, and a Homau
stores and store-'
tablishments, and
ihabitants and In-
:ur trade and fish
profitable occupa-
ice and the Lake
). The Chippewa
side, and one on
•d good accommo

iiited States mill
illage, where ari'
;t commands the
Itlie mouth of tlie'l

Itered settlement
Company. Here
stores, including
:om 500 to 600 in
ibe reside in the
[ing the exclusive
)us to the rapids J
[he rapids in tlieii |
strangers.

This canal, which connects the navigation of Lake Supe-
rior with the lower lakes, is 1 mile in length, and cost
about $1,000,000. The stupendous task of building it was
I accomplished in the years 1853, '54, '55, by the Saint
[ary's Falls Ship-Canal Company, under a contract with
"commissioners appointed by the authorities of the State of
Michigan to secure the building of the canal. A grant
of 750,000 acres of the public land had previously been
made by Congress to the State of Michigan to aid in the
construction of this important work.

This grant of 750,000 acres was given to the parties con-
tracting for the building of the canal, provided the work
should be completed within two years from the date of
|lie contract. The work was commenced May, 1853, and

mipleted within the time specified in the contract, {two
fears!) a result reached under many disadvantages, dur-
ing a very sickly season, and when great* difficulty was
experienced in obtaining laborers ; but the unremitting
'■igor of those who had the charge of the work secured its
jompletion in the most substantial, permanent, and accep-
[table manner. During much of the time, from 1200 to
1600 men were employed upon the work, exclusive of the
force at the different quarries where the stone was cut and
i prepared for the locks, beside a large force employed in
I other necessary agencies, such as getting timber, etc.
The stones for the locks were cut at Anderden, Canada,
(near Maiden,) and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio.
Tliese were sent in vessels to the work, some 25 different
sailing vessels being employed in this business.

On leaving the ship-canal at the Saut, the steamer as-
cends a beautiful stretch of the Saint Mary's River for 10
miles before reaching Waiska Bay, being an expansion of

108

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

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tlio river of about 5 miles. Hero the shores asRumc a hold
a])[>('iinine(3 well worthy the attention of the traveler befon-
lauiK.'hinjjf out on the waters of the broad lake.

Iro(|iiois Point, on the American side^ and Gros Caj), on
the Canadian side, are next passed, 15 miles from the Saut
Sainte Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, rising some
400 or .jOO feet above the water, with still higher hills
rising" in the distance.

Ton(|uamenon Bay is next entered, and a scene of gran-
deur is presented to the view ; on the south-west, or Ameri-
can shore, the land rises to a moderate height, while on the
north-east, or Canada shore, the land rises to mountain
height, being elevated from 800 to 1000 feet, running ott'
far in the distance toward the north.

Parisien and other islands, attached to Canada, are pass-
(kI on the right, the bay be* t about 25 miles long and as
many broad ; in fact, fori ; a part of Lake Superior,
whose pure waters are in full view as far as the eye can
reach.

Uoulais Bay and Point, another bold headland, lie to
the north of Gros Cap.

The Pictured Rocks, of which almost fabulous accounts
are given by travelers, are one of the wonders of Lake Su-
l^erior. Here are to be seen the Cascade Falls and other
objects of great interest. The Amphitheatre, Miners'
Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are points of
great picturesque beauty.

Just opposite the Pictured Rocks is Grand Island, 125
miles distant from the Saut, about 10 miles long and 5
wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a w^ild
and romantic island. There are several romantic bays
and inlets protected from storms which are frequent on

A INS.

IS assume a bolii

3 traveler before

ako.

iid Gros Cap, on

;8 from the Saut

ory, rising some

ill liiglier hills

a scene of gran-
i-west, or Ameri-
j-ht, while on the
ics to mountain
eet, running off

/anada, are pass-

iles long and as

Lake Superior,

as the eye can

leadland, lie to

bulous accounts
ers of Lake Sn-
ails and other
leatre, Miners'
, are points of

md Island, 125
es long and 5
This is a wild
romantic bays
re frequent on

) H I

atf>-

rf/ffi

LAKES, KIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS.

109

Lake Superior, where brook trout of a large size can be
caught in quantities. The forests also afford a delightful
retreat.

A few families reside on the south shore, facing the
mainland, where is a clearing of considerable extent. The
main-shore in full sight, and the Pictured Rocks, visible
from its eastern shore, altogether add a charm to this truly-
Grand Island, unsurpassed by no other spot in this Inter-
esting region.

Munising, formerly called Grand Islpnd City, lies on the
south side of Grand Island Bay, here about 3 miles in width.
Here is a steamboat wharf and hotel, together with a few
dwellings, destined, without doubt, to become a favorite
place of resort, as from this place the Pictured Rocks can
be easily reached by canoes or small boats during calm
weather. Trout fishing is also good in Ann's River, which
enters Grand Island Bay, and in Miner's River, near the
Pictured Rocks.

The bay or harbor is capacious, deep, and easy of access
from the east or west, being 6 miles in length by from 2
to 4 in width, with a depth of \7ater of 100 feet and up-
ward. It is perfectly land-locked by liills rising from 100
to 300 feet high, and capacious enough to contain the en-
tire fleet of the lakes.

The traveler desirous of visiting the Pictured Rocks
should take advantage of one of the steamers or propellers
which navigate the lake, and land at Grand Island, from
which he can proceed to make the tour of tne interesting
points in a small boat. The large vessels on the lake do
not approach sufficiently near the cliffs to allow the traveler
to gather more than a general idea of their position ai:d
outlines. To be able to appreciate and understand their
extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast along

110 LAKES, EIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS.

:iii|

in close proximity to the cliff's, and pass beneath the Grand
Portal, which is only accessible from the lake, and to land
and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand
Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The
traveler should lay in a good supply, if it is intended to be
absent long enough to make a thorough examination of
the whole series. In fact, an old voyager will not readily
trust himself to the mercy of the winds and waves of the
lake without them, as he may not unfrequently, however
auspicious the weather when starting, find himself weather-
bound for days together. It is possible, however, in one
day, to start from Grand Island, see the most interesting
points, and return. The distance from William's to the
Chapel — the farthest point of interest — is about 15 miles.
After the Pictured Rocks, Marquette is the next place of
interest. This is the largest place on the lake, and is
chiefly interesting for its famous iron mines, 12 miles back
from the town.

On leaving Marquette, the tourist passes Granite Island,
the Huron Isles, and Huron Bay, and passes through Port-
age Entry to Houghton and Hancock, the celebrated min-
ing towns of the copper-veined Keweenaw Point. Here is
the place to witness copper mining. The other stopping-
places on the lake are Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, On-
tonagon, Bayfield, and finally Superior City. Modt of the
steamers go no farther than Ontonagon, and here is also a
capital place to witness copper mining. Bayfield is a gov-
ernment post, and is settled all about by Chippewa Indians.
Superior City is splendidly situated at the head of the lake,
and between the two rivers. Saint Louis and Nemeji.

From Superior City the tourist should not fail to take a
sail along the north shore of Lake Superior, stopping at Bea
ver Bay, Encampment River, and Isle Royal. This latter

3«

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Ill

L tlie Grand
Bind to land
At Grand
!ured. The
ended to be
ruination of
not readily
mYes of tlie
ly, however
jelf weatlier-
rever, in one
t interesting
lam's to the
out 15 miles,
next place of
lake, and is
,2 miles back

•anite Island,
hrough Port-
ebrated min-
int. Here is
ler stopping-
Harbor, On-
Modt of the
ere is also a
eld is a gov-
,ewa Indians,
of the lake,
emeji.
fail to take a
)X)ing at Bea
This latter

is the great storehouse for agates and chlorastolites. The
tourist should also sail up the Saint Louis River 20 miles to
Saint Louis Falls, which have a fall of 60 feet. If he can get
his craft around the falls, he can ascend the Saint Louis 80
miles farther. Adventurous young ladies and gentlemen
will accomplish quite a feat by visiting Black River Falls,
12 miles from Superior City.

Tri- weekly stages go from Superior City to Saint Paul, a
distance of 163 miles. The time occupied is 3 days, and
the fare about $15. It is a wild and interesting trip to
take.

Altoge.ther, the Lake Superior trip is a splendid one in-
deed, especially for any who are troubled with bronchial
or pulmonary affections. The air is cool and dry, and ex-
ceedingly invigorating.

SAINT LOUIS AND VICINITY.

At the eastern border of the great journey " across the
Continent," which must be included in guide-books of our
era, stands the city of Saint Louis. Situated as it is, almost
midway between two oceans, and near the geographical
centre of the finest agricultural region on the globe, almost
at the very focus toward which converge the Mississippi,
the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers, there can
be no doubt that it is destined to become, at no distant
period, the great receiving and distributing depot of most
of the vast region drained by these streams. Its natural
advantages as a commercial emporium may be confidently
compared with those of any other inland port in the world.
The first settlement on the present site was made Feb. 15th,
1764, by Pierre Liqueste Laclede, leader of a company of
merchants, under grant from the Director-General of Louis-
iana. The spot was carefully selected, after comparison

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"J».Mi|lUi««»-l"'<llft«^"

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112

LAKES, KIVERS, AND 3I0UNTAINS.

with many other points on the Mississippi shore. In 1770,
there were 40 families at the settlement. The first brick
house was erected in 1813. A city charter was given 1822.
About the year 1825, the great State of Illinois began to
grow and increase, and this gave Saint Louis its first great
impulse. The occupation of the river by steamboat trade,
(the first steamer arrived at the city in 1817,) began to as-
sume magnificent proportions in 1822, and is now unsur-
passed by any western city. Present population not far
from 200,000. Saint Louis was taken possession of Aug.
11th, 1768, by a company of Spanish troops, under Captain
Rious, in the name of his king, and remained under that
control until its transfer to the United States in 1804. The
British threatened it in 1780, but to no avail.

Hotels. — Saint Louis has been able to boast of the grand-
est hotel in the United States ; but an unlucky fire during
the spring of 1867 destroyed its glory, unless the visitor
concede to the fellow of the Lindell, the Southern House,
an equal elegance. The Southern stands on the block
bounded by Fourth, Fifth, Walnut, and Elm streets, and
contains 500 rooms. The Planters' Hotel, on Fourth street,
near the Court-House, is the " Astor" of Saint Louis, resem-
bling that ancient structure in appearance and in comfort,
and being the chief old established house of entertain-
ment. Next after the Southern and the Planters' come
Barnum's, on Walnut and Second streets ; and yet more
moderate in price is the Everett, on Fourth near Chestnut
street. The "European plan" of hotel-keeping is not
known among the chief houses in this city. Horse-cars
traverse almost all portions of the city to its outer limits.

The first things which travelers will be apt to notice
v/ithin the city of St. Louis, after the everlasting smoke
from bituminous coal to which all western cities are

■tt

II*

LAKES, raVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. 113

i. In 1770,
first brick
Tiven 1823.
is began to
3 first great
iboat trade,
)egan to as-
now iinsur-
ion not far
ion of Aug.
der Captain
under that
.1804. The

»f the grand-
Y fire during
s the visitor
hern House,
the block
streets, and
•urth street,
louis, resem-
in comfort.
If entertain-
nters' come
d yet more
lar Chestnut
liner is not
Horse-cars
ter limits.
t to notice
Iting smoke
cities are

subject, are, the beauty of the building material used for
houses, and the clean, noiseless, smooth wooden streets.
The famous Nicholson pavement is used throughout all
the recently paved sections. The material used in the
fronts of buildings of pretension is a very light native
stone, most nearly approaching cream-color, quarried not
very far from the city. It affords the most splendid eflfects
in the newer buildings. The most elegant residence street
in Saint Louis, about a quarter of a mile further from the
river than the late Lindell or the Everett, is Lucas Place,
a short but wide avenue, paved exceptionally with large
oblong blocks of white granite, which, with the brilliant
facades of the mansions, make a most striking and attrac-
tive appearance. Lucas Place terminates at one of the
few miserable parks — now being improved, we believe —
which detract from the beauty of the city. There is at
this point a very elegant church edifice, of the Presbyte-
rian denomination. The principal business street of the
city is Fourth, named from its relative position back from
the river, to which it runs parallel. Immediately behind
it (Fifth) is the next street of importance. The older por-
tion of the town, well worthy a visit for its remains of the
French civilization, is toward the south, in the vicinity
of the market and the railway depots to Iron Mountain
and the Pacific.

Among the most interesting public buildings are the
Court-House, on Fourth street, with an elegantly frescoed
dome, from which we may have a fine view of the city ;
the Mercantile Library, (with the best public hall,) on
Fifth street, where are some of the finest marbles (Beatrice
in Prison, Zenobia, [copy from the large one,] Puck, and
(Enone) of Miss Harriet Hosmer, who studied here, a fine
collection of old paintings, and a well-collected library

114

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

■j'i?|' |t;

' 'f*

w;!|-

the Merchants' Exchange on Main (First) and Commercial
streets — admission by permit from the superintendent;
the Custom-House and Post-Office, the finest abode of the
mail service in the country, apart from the general oiflce
at Washington, situated on Third and Olive streets.

Outside of the city one will wish to see the curious In-
dian mounds for which Saint Louis is famous, being some
times called therefrom, " the Mound City." These relics
of barbarism are, alas ! fast disappearing, to the dismay
of the antiquarian and the tourist, as the city pushes its
new civilization more and more into the open country
about it. A few of them, however, still remain near the
city, or within it ; we may call attention particularly to one,
mentioned in Dana's Hew American Cyclopmdia, (to which,
indeed, we must refer our reader for a very interesting and
instructive essay, [American Antiquities,] on these de-
fensive or sacred tumuli,) on the plain of Cahokia in Illinois,
opposite Saint Louis. This is 700 feet long by 500 broad
at base, and is 90 feet high, covering upward of 8 acres of
ground, and having 20,000,000 cubic feet of contents.

The great flower-gardens of Mr. Shaw, (we may be par-
doned for refreshing the reader's memory by alluding to
the lawsuit against this gentleman, which Miss Effie Car-
stang brought and lost some years ago,) toward Caronde-
let village, southward, and the United States fortifications
by the river at that point, are also places of much interest
to visit. Horse-cars run to the Gardens.

But the great glory of Saint Louis — that which the
visitor will nolens wlens see first and last — is the Mississip-
pi River. It is not within our province here to describe
that mighty stream, excepting as it is related to Saint
Louis. They who approach by steamboat will have pre-
viously become somewhat familiar with the swiftly-flow-

. 'ji

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

115

ing, muddy waters, the flat-bottomed boats, which seem
to be endowed with almost human nervous constitution,
BO delicately are they strung and so often do they commit
Buicide, the lofty, ornamented, black smoke-pipes, which
are almost an institution and a sight by themselves, and
last, but not least, the motley throngs who gather at the
levees and fill the saloons. But let us suppose an arrival
by land. Coming from the East, the tourist crosses the
IMississippi from whatever point of Illinois Town his par-
ticular railway may deposit him, on a ferry-boat so exceed-
ingly primitive that he can hardly credit his senses.
Steam, to be sure ; but he walks or rides upon the vessel
direct from a muddy shore, from no dock or pier to speak
of, and lands again at the Saint Louis levee in the same
singular manner. He will remember the boast of the
Western captain, who " wouldn't think of havin* a boat
that couldn't run on the sweat of a water-pitcher," with
astonishment that it was, after all, so nearly " founded on
fact." The levee is a sloping, muddy bank, lined on the
one hand with most ancient-looking warehouses, and
washed — rather cut away — by the rushiiig river. Of this
hostility of the river we shall see more, presently, at
Alton. Along the edge, close up to the muddy shore,
come the light draught steamboats in such multitude
that, as far as the eye can follow the levee up or down,
there is one continuous line of them with their singular
high smoke-pipes. When these vessels are on their way,
the smoke of the bituminous coal used in the West rolls
up with a black solidity of volume that gives a very pic-
turesque effect to the scene. .

A great annoyance to temperate travelers, at Saint Louis,
as along the whole line of the Mississippi below the Yel-
lowstone, 2000 miles up the Missouri branch from Saint

It :!

•rltl

if)*'M

116

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Louis, is the drinking-water. The waters of the river are
sweet and delicious to the taste, and those accustomed to
them consider the imposition of any other water a depri-
vation. But the Yellowstone River (see below, in sketch
of Alton, etc.) brings down to the Missouri, and so to the
main stream, below Alton, a yellow mud, which renders
the waters here exceedingly unpromising to the eye, and
for a while, to the taste. It is of some service, however,
in destroying the native taste of the Mississippi itself at
this point. When strangers are first subjected to the ne-
cessity of drinking the Mississippi water — it being pumped
up to a reservoir behind the city, filtered somewhat, and
supplied for use — ^they, not singularly, decline a beverage
which appears to be full of dirt, to taste of mud, and final-
ly to have no effect whatever towards quenching thirst ;
and to some it is productive of sickness. A week's famili-
arity with it, however, will make it as delightful as a cer-
tain sovereign syrup is said to be to children.

\:.

'Wi

■|,;i

THE MEETING OF THE WATERS AT ALTON.

Since we have alluded to the savage propensities of
the Father of Waters, let us ascend to the place where
meet the two great branches. Here we think we may
offer the tourist the grandest single view of river sce-
nery to be found in all the country. We may take some
one of the numerous smaller steamboats plying between
Saint Louis and Alton, and sail 20 miles against the
current to that town. Our own visit was in the after-
noon of a beautiful May day. We reached the point
where the two streams meet and seek to mingle, just as
the setting sun, surrounded but not hidden by clouds
of sombre face and silver lining, was casting his last
golden rays upon the water. It may not be the good fox-

LAKES, EIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

117

river are
tomed to
r a depri-
n sketcli
30 to tlie
1 renders
eye, and
however,
i itself at
to the ne-
^ pumped
what, and
, beverage
and final-
ng thirst ;
ik's famili-
il as a cer-

ON.

insities of
ace where
k we may
river sce-
ake some
between
ainst the
the after-
the point
;le, just as
ly clouds
his last
good for-

tune of every one to enjoy so fine a phase of the sunlight ;
but to stand upon the deck of your steamer, looking upon
the one side at the placid Mississippi, clear and limpid,
flowing beautifully toward the sea ; and on the other at
the foaming Missouri, rushing down upon the channel of
its fellow with a muddy, furious torrent that sweeps all
before it, and destroys forever all traces of that gentle
stream ; this is delight unbounded, and may be shared
by all who journey over the Mississippi waters. Years
ago, there stood upon the eastern bank, just at the con-
fluence, the village of Chippewa, a place of some little
population and business ; but the tremendous vehemence
with which the Missouri cast itself upon the clayey
bank proved too much for it to stand, and the land has
gone down the river to seek the ocean, along with the
other accretions from the north, and also the south. All
along the line of our short sail we may behold the same pro-
cess almost actually going on before us. The banks, soft
and yielding, are losing on the one side, (and increasing
on the other in a less proportion,) as the rapid current,
knife-like, cuts off" great slices, carrying down trees, fences,
any thing that unwarily remains to withstand such a foe.
It is a most singular and a most impressive sight. We
do not wonder that the Indians selected for their title of
the river a name, which, while it robs us of any solemnity
with which tlie scene might inspire us, certainly conveys
to the mind the character of the work done, and the re-
sult — the Missouri is the " mud river."

Alton is finely situated upon the eastern bank of the
Mississippi, nearly 3 miles above the actual meeting of
the waters. Apart from what political interest attaches
to the town as the home and grave of Lovejoy, the Aboli-
tionist martyr before the war, we hardly need to mention

118

LAKES, RIVERS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

any tiling. The most noticeable object is the high, hard
limestone bluff, upon which part of the city stands. If, as
has been suggested, the powers that bo should cut away
some 200 acres of the point of land between Alton and
the point where the Missouri empties, (according to the
popular phraseology — it is really the Mississippi that emp-
ties, as the visitor hero will see at once,) the Missouri
would hurl its raging torrent in vain against that magni-
ficent bluff, and would be a little weakened in its on-
slaughts on the shores below. Perhaps this will be done
some time. The Yankee nation is fond of conquering
nature, and this is certainly a very inviting point of at-
tack.

THE MISSOURI IRON REGION.

Another trip from Saint Louis, in the opposite direction,
takes us from the active to the silent forces of nature, in
the famous Iron Region of the State of Missouri. In the
East, a visitor would stare amazed at his host who should
invite him to an excursion of 80 miles ; but in the West,
distance is not counted among the trials of life, and a trip
to Pilot Knob and its neighbors, from Saint Louis, is
esteemed one of the greatest pleasures to which a cour-
teous citizen can treat his guest.

The iron mountains of Missouri, wonderful beyond cre-
dibility were they not on a line of familiar travel, are
situated at the south-western extremity of the Saint Louis
and Iron Mountain Railway, 87 miles from the city.
There are three of great importance and note : the Iron
Mountain, the Pilot Knob, and the Shepherd Mountain,
standing near together, and close by the site of Fort Pilot
Knob, where the rebel Price, during the late war was ig-
nominiously defeated. The railway hither passes a great
number of block-houses, also erected for Union defense

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS,

119

Th, liard
i. If, as
;ut away
Iton and
g to the
liat eiup-
Missouri
tt magni-
n its on-
[ be done
mquering
)iiit of at-

5 direction,
nature, in
i. In tlie
'lio should
the West,
and a trip
Louis, is
Lch a cour-

durinff the war. There is also a very superior view af-
forded of the Mississippi River for some 15 miles beyond
Carondelet, as the railway follows the line of the river for
that distance on tho way of the iron region.

The Iron Mountain par excellence is probably a solid
mass of iron, 288 feet above the surrounding valleys, co-
vering an area of 500 acres. Upon the surface is, where
not interrupted by the works, a forest of oak-trees, Thriving
in a soil which is wholly composed of fragmentd of peroxide
of iron, comminuted and coarse-mixed together. Excava-
tion of the ore of this mountain was commenced in 1845,
on the west side of Little Iron Mountain, a i^rolongation
of the larger hill. There is an artesian well at the moun-
tain. It may safely be said that the quantity of iron
upon this mountain that may be quarried, without need
of mining, is inexhaustible.

The Pilot Knob will interest a visitor more than the
other, not merely because its iron is purer and more valu-
able, but because of the appearance of the summit, giv-
ing name to the mountain. It is G miles south of Iron
Mountain, and is an isolated conical peak, co^-ering an
area of 360 acres, and rising very steeply to the height of
500 feet above its base, which is 537 feet above the rail-
way level at Saint Louis. Towards the top the rock be-
comes ferruginous, and ledges and loose blocks of great
size of pure iron ore and mixed ore and rock cover the
surface. The top is a rocky peak, 60 feet high, forming a
craggy knob, from which the mountain is named.

A third iron supply is found on Shepherd Mountain, a
little over a mile south-west from the Knob. This is 600
feet high, and covers an area of 800 acres. The iron ore is
magnetic and specular, and is found in great imrity upon
the mountain. The tourist may add to his entertainment

120

LAKIW, lUVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

in lookinpf upon tlicso great natural wonders by picturing
to liimself tlioir inexliaustibility, and the unlimited sup-
I)lies from them, wliicli will occupy the blaat-furnaces
which ghall, us the West grows, begin to spring up in the
nearest coal-districts.

UP THE MISSISSIPPI TO SAINT PAUL.

Saint Paul is best known as a healthful resort for con-
sumj^tives. All the year round it is thronged with health-
seekers. It is now universally conceded that for this class
of unfortunates, no better resort can be found the world
over. Th'^ dry and crystalline air has a wonderfully re-
storative etfect upon those whose lungs are in any way
diseased. Even the cold winter air does not prove injuri
ous to invalids. The State of Minnesota is proved by sta
tistics to be the healthiest in the Union, and there is not
more than one locality on the face of the earth where the
death rate lo so small. But we will refer readers, for more
particulars upon this part of the sulvject, to the Guide to
tlie Koroh- Wcfn, a new edition of which has just been issued.
We purpose in this article to speak of Minnesota as a re-
sort for the pleasure tourist.

When tiie tourist goes to Minnesota, he never fails to
visit Saint Paul. This is the largest and most beautiful
city in the State ; is at tli« head of navigation upon the
Mississippi, and is distant three days from New- York, or
a little less by the all rail 'oute.

The best route for the summer pleasure tourist is by rail
to La Crosse, on tho Mississippi, by way of the Chicago
and North-western, and Milwaukee and La Crosse roads,
and thence by steamboat, ISO miles up the river tp Saint
Paul. If it is desired to visit the beautiful city of Madison,
Wisconsin, so famed fci it^s natural beauty, wliicli is de-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUXTAIXS.

121

>y picturing
imitcd Bup-
ast-funiaces
\g up in the

A.UL.

Bort for con-
witli liealtli-
for tins class
id tlio world
)nderfully re-
in any way
prove injurl
trovod by sta
d there is not
•th where the
ers, for more
the Guide to
It been issued,
esota as a re-

levcr fails to
lost beautiful
[ion upon the
Tew-York, or ^

[irist is by rail
the Chicago
I Crosse roads,
river tp Saint
|;y of Madison,
wliich is de-

■3'

scribed elsewhere in this volume, the tourist will take the
Prairie Da Chit'U road at Watortown, and strike the Mis-
sissippi at a point further down than by the other route.
The faro from Now- York, by either route, is $43. The
tourist who vis^l^s Saint Louis and the magnificent scenery
at its meeting the Missouri, (see Saint Louis and Vicini-
ty,) may combine that pleasure and this by taking steamer
between Saint Louis or Alton and La Crosse. This plan
win secure to the tourist the whole " upper river," and
just glimpse enough of the swollen flood below the meet-
ing of the two great branches, to afford some conception
of the whole " lower river."

^ We can not describe too enthusiastically the superb sail
up the upper Mississippi. The scenery is very like that of
the Hudson, but to our mind much finer. Thackeray
called it the finest he had ever seen. After leaving the
lively city of Winona, the boat glides into the waters of
Lake Pepin, the bluffs about which are very grand. The
stopping-places are Fountain City, Wabasha, Reed's Land-
ing, Lake City, Prescott, Red Wing, and Hastings. Eight
miles from Lake City, and opposite Fontunac, is the lively
little village of Maiden Rock. A fine little steamer plies
regularly between these places, affording visitors a fine
opportunity to view the scenery of the lake, and especially
the romantic bluff known as Maiden's Rock. At Prescott
you can change to the boat that goes 50 miles up the beau-
tiful Saint Croix, a detour which we recommend to visitors.
The scenery up the Saint Croix is very beautiful. Stillwater
is the largest place upon the river.

On reaching Saint Paul, you will find pleasant quarters at
the International Hotel, from which point you can enjoy
delightful drives to Fort Snelling and the Falls of Minne:
haha, to Lake Como and Minneapolis, and to White Bear

'"\A

I Mfiiiii

122

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Lake. The luttor is a superb spot for fisliingf, and has a
sportsman's hotel. The tourist will find a few days at
Minneap'olis (6 miles above Saint Paul) enjoyable. From
here there arc tri-weekly stages to Lake Minnetonka, a
splendid lake, honored with a pretty steamer, and having
two hotels.

Cars run from Saint Paul to Saint Cloud, on the line of
which are Big Lake and Clear Lake, great lakea for fisher-
men. The latter has a summer hotel. There is a tri-weekly
line of stages from Saint Cloud to Fort Abercrombie, on the
Red River. The fare is $16. There is a daily stage line from
Saint Cloud to Crow Wing, the home of the famous Indian
chief, " Hole-in-the-day." From Crow Wing you can go by
canoe to Vermilion Lake, or -/.o Lake Superior. From Saint
Paul there is a tri-weekly line of stages to Lake Superior.
Fare, $15.

For more detailed information about Minnesota and Da
cotah, we refer the tourist to the Invalid's and Tourisfs
Guide to the North-West y compiled by the editor of this
volume, and containing a complete map of the North-west-
ern country.

MADISON-ON THE-LAKES-A WISCONSIN BTJMMEE

BE30RT.

Not only as a thriving State capital, but as a delightful
place of summer resort, Madison deserves the attention
of the tourist eager to find some pleasant novelty off the
beaten traek. The place is easily accessible by railway in
six hours from Chicago.

Every body who has been here from the East is loud in
praises of this charming place. It lies on an undulating
isthmus between two large lakes, and in the immediate
vicinity of three others. The highest elevation is crowned

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 123

, and has a
BW doys at
ble. From
nnetonka, a
and having

1 the line of
:e3 for fisher-
) a tri-weekly
jnibie, on the
age line from
imons Indian
ovL can go "by
From Saint
ike Superior.

ssota and Da
,nd Tourisfs
tditor of this
North-wesl-

with the Capitol building, a structure in the Corinthian
style, only needing the contemplated dome to be the finest
State capital in the West. From the grounds that sur-
round it the streets radiate down to the lakes, and a pecu-
liarly insular effect is produced from the fact that almost
every street terminates in a water front. The city is oth-
erwise well built, many of the private residences evincing
the cultivated taste of their proprietors. There is the
usual supply of churches of the leading denominations.
Grace Church (Episcopal) is the finest, and is a- very credi-
table Gothic building, of light-colored stone. The interior
is well finished, and the body of the church is patiently
vraiting for a spi/e, and seems, without it, as incomplete as
a sturdy, prosperous young man without a blushing bride.
The Catholics have a church here also, spire-less, but oth-
erwise a fine edifice. The City Hall and the University
are other buildings, so far ahead of such structures as
there are usually found in towns of the size of Madison,
that they are worthy of special praise.

BTJMMEE

a delightful
he attention
Ivelty off the
]y railway in

ist is loud in
undulating
immediate
In is crowned

THE LAKES.

The large Lake Mendota, or Fourth Lake, as it is called,
is some 15 miles in circumference, and is navigated by
a little mite of a steamboat, called the City of Madison,
which, at i)resent, goes at the rate pf a mile an hour, but
expects soon to indulge in the luxury of new machinery,
and of consequent increased speed. The sail is a pleasant
one, the chief objective point being the State Lunatic Asy-
lum, a huge structure built on a promontory extending
into the lake. People who have faith in fish, say that
large pickerel abound in the waters. We can vouch for
perch actually as large as your little finger. The tradi-

\ <,

[

\ 'i

i ■

1 M'!

!t 1

•l!

124

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

tional one big fish, weighing from eight to fifteen pounds,
exists here as elsewhere, and has been frequently caught
— ^in piscine legendary lore.

The first and second lakes are some distance from the
city. Nearer by is Dead Lake, a small sheet of water
said to be gradually drying up. The third lake is the
most beautiful of all, and from its surface the finest view
of the city is obtained, making a panorama of striking
beauty. A lively little steamboat, with an Indian name
of forty-two syllables, plies across this lake to the Lake
House.

THE HOTELS.

The Lake House is a spacious, commodious building,
kept in first-rate style and at absurdly low rates of
charge, by a well-known New-Yorker, Mr. Frodsham, for-
merly of the Dusseldorf Gallery, and a magnate in art cir-
cles. Like Charles V., he has retired to this convent — a
mighty comfortable one, by the way — and amid its home-
like walls, decorated with rare engravings and paintings
that attest the critical taste of the proprietor, he dispenses
goodly cheer to those who come to him .as boarders and
leave him as friends. In home-feelingness and really re-
fined luxury, this hotel is only surpassed by Mr. Moore's
well-known hostelry at Trenton Falls. The visitors are
chiefly from Saint Louis.

In the village there is the Vilas House, a fairly comfort-
able place. Its best feature is the superb view from the
cupola, embracing the entire town, the lakes, and the sur-
rounding country. Other hotels in the city are neat and
inviting, so that Madison is more really attractive than
many better known places.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

125

Bn pounds,
tly caught

B from tlie
t of water
lake is the
finest view
of striking
dian name
the Lake

IS building,
w rates of
Ddsham, for-
te in art cir-
convent — a
d its home-
paintings
e dispenses
•arders and
really re-
>Ir. Moore's
Ivisitors are

THE C. PITOL.

The Madisonians are proud of their Capitol. The
Senate and Assembly rooms are models in every way,
and the State authorities of Illinois will find it difficult to
surpass them in the superb new structure they contem-
plate building at Springfield. The Wisconsin Historical
Society has a good collection of local curiosities and relics
in a wing of the Capitol ; and the captured rebel flags,
which are hung on inner walls, show that the Wisconsin
soldiers were busy during the war. The Governor of the
State, Mr. Fairchild, is a veteran who lost an arm at Get-
tysburg.

THE NEW-YORK CENTRAL RAILWAY.

Setting aside the questions of monopoly, centralized
power, etc., it certainly was a great benefit to the travel-
ing public when, in 1853, one continuous railway from
Albany and Troy to the western border of the State of
New- York was formed. It is quite within the memory of
persons of middle age, when journeys through the length
o^ the Empire State were necessarily made by " packet" —
Fi. species of canal-boat — or by stage. I.«ater came the
separate railways, out of which, 14 in number, the New-
York Central Railway Company was formed in 1853.
The first link in this chain of railways was the road from
Albany to Schenectady, completed in 1831. This was fol-
lowed by the construction of a road from Schenectady to
Utica, in 1835. In 1839, the work was pushed to the salt-
marshes of Syracuse. Antecedent to this, in 1836, a short
line had been constructed from Syracuse to Auburn. This
was then continued to Rochester, by way of Canandaigua,
in 1840, making a continuous line of 233 miles. Only 68
miles then remained to complete the railway to Buffalo.

126

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

! r

Twelve years, however, passed away before it was com-
pleted, and not till 1852 was the entire line open to travel.
The Hudson River Rail way having been completed during
the previous year, the whole distance from New- York City
to the shores of Lake Erie was then traversed by continu-
ous railway.

Fares. — The fare on the Central Railway is restricted
by State law to 2 cents per mile — a regulation which the
Company have repeatedly, but in vain, endeavored to have
repealed. The traveler, therefore, may purchase his ticket
between every two stations at almost the same total cost
•with a through ticket, save in times of ruinous competi-
tion between this and the Erie road* There are no com-
mutation or excursion tickets to be had on the Central
Railway. The number of miles multiplied by 2, with 1
or 2 cents added for tax, will invariably give the fare be-
tween any two points between the eastern and western
boundaries of the State, as well as, for the most part, be-
tween New- York City and Albany.

That portion of this great route with which at present
we have to do, has two termini at the eastern end, one at
Albany and the other at Troy, which meet, after 17 miles,
at Schenectady. It then continues in one line to Syracuse,
148 miles from Albany, when it is again a double route for
the remainder of the way ; the lower line, ma Auburn and
Canandaigua, known as the " Auburn" or " Old Road," be-
ing " looped up" to the other at Rochester, about midway
between Syracuse and Buffalo. The upper route is called
the "Direct Road," with a justness which the traveler by
the " Old " way will cheerfully accede. The Erie Canal
traverses the entire State nearly on the same line with the
Central, and the Mohawk River is parallel nearly as far as
Rome, 110 miles from Albany. The portion of country

it was com-
;n to travel,
eted during
kV-York City
by continu-

is restricted
I which the
>red to have
se his ticket
e total cost
us competi-
are no com-
the Central
)y 2, with 1
:lie fare be-
md western
)st part, be-

1 at present

end, one at

er 17 miles,

o Syracuse,

lie route for

Luburn and

Road," be-

ut midway

ite is called

raveler by

Erie Canal

10 with the

iy as far as

of country

dMiMk.^

iif.f.i'ii*..

\ m.

^i M Mix

I 'I

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 127

through which the railway passes possesses, moreover,
much historical interest. The " Fivo Nations '' once occu-
pied most of the country along the route ; and many lo-
calities visible from the car-windows were the scenes of
savaffe warfare and fierce conflicts during thr Revolution.

ATHENS ROAD.

The new branch of the Central, which is sometimes
termed "the Athens Cut-off," is a route of some interest to
the tourist. It commences at Athens, in Greene county,
opposite Hudson, on the Hudson River, and runs in a di-
rection north by west to Schenectady, saving a very little
time and distance.

Athens is at present a small and unimportant village of
2000 inhabitants. A good deal of limestone is quarried
near here, and three small lakes in the western part of the
township give a pleasant variety to the interior,,

Coxsackie, 6 miles from Athens, is an old Dutch vil-
lage, settled about 1652.

Coeymans, 14 miles, boasts two falls, two caves, several
mineral springs, a lake, a subterranean river, and a fossil
elephant. The falls are in the village itself, and amount
to 75 feet in all. Lawson's Lake is in the north-western
part of the township. The caves belong to that large
class of limestone ledges and hollows which characterize
the -eastern part (see Caves op Schoharie) of the State.
The larger of these two extends 660 feet into a perpendi-
cular ledge. The Feuri-Spruyt Kill, doubtless frightened at
so awful a cognomen, dives beneath its bed for a half-mile.
The springs are impregnated with sulphate of magnesia.
The elephant occurred 4 miles west of the river, on Mr.
Shears's farm. The other stations, as far as the crossing
of the Albany and Susn[uehanna Railway — namely, Beth-
lehem, Feurabush, and New-Scotland — have their glory in

128

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

the same i^henomena. Guilderland Centre and Central
Junction are not important stations, and beyond the latter
3 miles is Schenectady.

In the article entitled Along the Hudson we have al-
ready alluded to Albany and Troy with as much particu-
larity, perhaps, as the tourist will desire. If he has come
from the east or north to begin his journey with us, he has
probably remained over night at the Delavan House, Stan-
wix Hall, Congress Hall, or the American, in Albany, or
the Troy House, in Troy ; if from the south, he has, per-
haps, been enjoying the comforts of the most elegant
steamboats on the face of the globe. Terms at the Dela-
van and Congress, $4.50 per day ; at Stanwix Hall, (most
convenient for one in haste,) $3.50 ; the American, $2.50
or $3 per day.

Schenectady, 17 miles from Albany, 23 from Troy, is the
point at which the railways from Albany and Troy meet,
and the Saratoga route diverges. Schenectady is upon
the right bank of the Mohawk River. It is one of the
oldest towns in the State, and is distinguished as the seat
of Union College, founded in 1795. The buildings are dis-
cernible from the right-hand windows going west. The
council-grounds of the Mohawks once formed the site of
the present town. A trading-post was established by the
Dutch as early as 1620. A massacre of the inhabitants by
the French and Indians occurred here in 1690. In 1795,
the town was made the headquarters of the Western Navi-
gatioij Company, organized to navigate the Mohawk River
to Oneida Lake. Schenectady was incorporated as a city
in 1798.

Leaving Schenectady, the road crosses the Mohawk
River and the Erie Canal, upon a bridge nearly 1000 feet
in length.

3. i.'

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

129

Central
le latter

have al-
particu-
as come
i, lie has
se, Stan-
bany, or
las, per-
elegant
[le Dela-
11, (most
n, $2.50

>y, is the

:>y meet,

is upon

e of the

he seat

are dis-

it. The

site of

by the

;ants by

n 1795,

n Navi-

k River

8 a city

[ohawk
)00 feet

At Hoffman's, 2G miles, (from Albany,) a ferry was es-
tablished in 1790 by Hermanns Vedder, and was called
Vedder's Ferry until 1835 ; it was then purchased by John
Hoffman, whoso name it has since borne.

Tribcs's Hill, 39 miles, is a place of some interest. Its
name is derived from the fact that the Indians were accus-
tomed to assemble on a mound here on important occa-
sions, where they held their councils and listened to the
eloquence of their chieftains. A suspension bridge crosses
the Mohawk here, and near Schoharie Creek once stood
Fort Hunter. In 1710, several hundred of the Palatinates,
who had been previously located on the Hudson by the
bounty of Queen Anne, migrated to this neighborhood ; in
1 780, they were massacred by the son of Sir William John-
son, in command of some Indians and Tories.

Johnstown, 3 miles north of Fonda, which is 44 miles
west of Albany, was incorporated in 1808 ; it lies on the
southern border of Montgomery county. This i)lace was
once the residence of the distinguished Sir William John-
son. This gentleman entered the wilderness as agent for
his uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had an extensive grant
from Great Britain. He built a stone mansion here, sur-
passing in cost and grandeur every dwelling in the valley
of the Mohawk. By his tact he won the confidence of the
Indians, assuming their dress and learning to speak their
language, and entering heartily into all their wild sports.
He became agent for Great Britain, and was of great serv-
ice in settling disputes with the Indians. In 1759. at his
call, 2000 Indian braves assembled, and were led by him
to the head of Lake George, where he defeated the French
mider Dieskau. For this. Parliament voted him' £5000,
and the King conferred a baronetcy upon him. He died
in 1774, having spent forty years in the wilderness. Men-

130

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

tion of liim will bo found also in the articles entitled Sa-
ratoga and Lake Ciiamplain.

Palatine Bridge, 55 miles, derives its name from the
German Palatines who settled hero in 1713, and from the
bridge which crosses the Mohawk and separates it from
Canajoharie. Passengers take the stage here for Sharon
Springs, a place of considerable resort during the summer
season. (See Mineral Springs of New- York.) The
ride from Canajoharie to the springs, a distance of 14
miles, is one of the most picturesque and beautiful to be
found in this part of the country.

Fort Plain, 58 miles, was the scene of one of the raids of
the notorious Brandt, in 1780 ; when the women in the
forts, th'^ir h^.^bands being absent, clothed themselves in
male aitire and frightened the redskins away by their
brave appearance.

At Saint Johnsville, G4 miles from Albany, 2^ to 3 hours'
ride, is the first eating-station on the road, and the best in
the State.

Little Falls, 74 miles, is remarkable for a bold passage
of the Mohawk River and Erie rianal through a wild and
most picturesque defile. The scenery, embracing the river,
rapids, and cascades, the locks and windings of the canal,
the bridges, and the glimpses far away of the valley of the
Mohawk, are especially beautiful.

Richfield Springs, about 13 milos from Little Falls, is
quite a pleasant resort in summer, r '^ar the head of Schuy-
ler Lake. (See Mineral Springs of New- York.)

Utica is a large, flourishing, and handsome town on the
south side of the Mohawk River. The Erie Canal and the
Central Railway pass through the centre of the city. It
contains several handsome buildings, among which are
the City Hall and State Lunatic Asylum. It is built upon

LAKES, rwIVKRS, AXD MOUNTAINS.

131

tlio site of old Fort Schuylor, and lias now a population of
25,000. Hotels : Bajrff'a, at tlio dnpot, and tlio National.
Visitors to Trenton Falls take the Black Hivor Railway
trains at this point, the distance to the Falls being about
20 miles. Clinton, 8 miles south-west of Utica, accessible
by horse-cars, is the seat of Hamilton College, incorporated
in 1843.

The next station of prominence is Rome, 109 miles, where
diverges the Rome, Watcrtown, an(; Oswego Railway to
Lake Ontario, nortliward. This jjlace was originally called
Fort Stanwix, from a fort erected here in 1758. After the
conquest of Canada it fell into decay, but was repaired dur-
ing the Revolution. In 177 7, General Saint Leger besieged
it, but was compelled to raise the siege by the arrival of
aid. This battlc-nKumd lives only in history ; not a trace
of it now remains in Rome. Here was also a mile of por-
tage, which kept asunder the waters of the Mohawk and
Wood Creek, and interrupted the navigation from Albany
to the Lakes. The Indians call it De-o-wain-sta — or
" carrying-place for canoes." Over this interval all mer-
chandise to and from the distant West had to be conveyed
by men and ox-teams. Then, by way of Wood Creek and
Oneida Lake, it reached Lake Ontario.

Verona, 117 miles, is a thrivinn- village in the midst of a
rich grazing country. A short distance from it is a mineral
spring, said to possess the properties of the Harrowgate
waters of England.

From Verona to Manlius the railway, first approaching
the chain of small inland lakes of the State, runs along a
line parallel with, but some distance frdm, the '=^outhern
bank of Oneida Lake.

Oneida, 122 miles from Albany, is built upon a portion
of the territory of the Oneida Indians. The word signifies

^^1

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132

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

I ^

" tlio people of tlio stone." This tribe had a traditioa that
a certain stone followed them in their wanderings, and at
length rested upon a lofty hill, upon which the Indiana
afterward always held their councils. A boulder of gneiss,
lying upon a farm at Stockbridge, was pointed out as the
object of their veneration, and a few years since was re-
moved to the entrance of Utica Cemetery, where it still
remains. The village is on Oneida Creek, and was incor-
porated in 1848. On the banks of the creek, and about 3
miles from the village, a society called the Oneida Com-
munity is located upon a well-tilled farm of 390 acres.
The association, which includes both sexes, was organized
by John II. Noyes, who originated their peculiar religious
and social tenets, in 1847. They form a general commu-
nity, holding a common interest in all things. The rela-
tion of the sexes is placed, not like that of civilized socie-
ties, on the basis of law and constraint, neither on the
opposite one of mere freedom, but on that of " inspiration."
They are principally engaged in gardening, nurs'^-ry busi-
ness, milling, and the manufacture of steel-traps, sowing-
silk, traveling-bags, cravats, and palm-leaf hats. The men
are chiefly engaged upon the land, and the women in other
profitable jjursuits. They also publish a weekly paper
called the Circular.

Chittenango is 133 miles west, and is the seat of the
famous sulphur springs known by its name. (See article,
Mineral Springs oe' New- York.)

Manlius, 140 miles, is situated on the border of Limestone
Creek, where a branch of the river falls over a precipice 100
feet high, forming a fine cascade, and a pleasant summer
resort. Near this place are sulphur and other mineral
springs, but they have not yet attracted public attention.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

133

In tho vicinity are tliroo peculiar ponds, called tUo Qrocn
Lakes, from the color of their waters.

Eight miles further on, we come to the third chief sta-
tion of tho road, the seat of government of tho third divi-
sion of the Central Railway, the "central city" of tho State —
Syracuse. It is a favorite place for holding conventions,
political, religious, and what not ; but not a place of much
interest to the tourist. There is a depot, and numberless
qiiasi-resta\ira.nt8, which is more than can bo said for
Utica. Tho passenger going west will be better fed at
Rochester, 81 miles further by the Direct Road, or at Cay-
uga, by tho Auburn Road, 37 miles. The Syracuse House
and Globe Hotel, however, are near the depot here, and
time is commonly allowed for dinner.

For account of the salt-works and springs on Onondaga
Lake, near the city, see Mineral Springs of New- York.
If one have a fancy for imagining similarity of place and
circumstance, he may think Onondaga the Great Salt
La^te, and if not Syracuse, at least Oneida, the city of the
I.r/trfi r>*.y Saints; while in point of fact, that notorious
I niK). tui 3, the Book of Mormon itself, was pretended to
.b'ive b n dug from a hill-side at Manchester, Ontario
rco ;?t;^ , not far west of this.

Passengers for Oswego, and Lake Ontario at its east end,
go north from Syracuse by the Syracuse and Oswego Rail-
way, 35 miles. There is nothing of interest on the road
until the lake city is reached. Oswego is described in
Ontario and the Saint Lawrence.

From Syracuse diverge the two branches called the
Direct, and the Auburn or Old, Roads. The passenger
going by Clyde, Lyons, and Palmyra will usually have to
make no change of cars, and reaches Rochester an hour
sooner than he who goes by Auburn and Geneva. The

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134

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

1, i

former branch is much the more agreeable to travelers in
haste, or who dislike frequent stops ; but there are very-
few points of interest along its route. The express sta-
tions are Port Byron, Palmyra, and Lyons.

DIRECT ROAD.

Savannah, 100 miles from ^*lbany, 33 from Syracuse, is
named from the resemblance of 2000 acres of low, marshy-
land, which produces abundance of long, coarse grass, to
the Spanish savannas. The region generally through this
division is not very pleasing. Clyde, on Clyde River, 6
miles beyond, is famous for the extensive fields of pepper-
mint which are seen beside the railway. The jilant is
grown for making the essence, and is said to be one of the
most remunerative crops that can be cultivated. About
one third of all the peppermint grown in the United States
is raised in this section.

Fanaticism seems t) have made its home in Western
New- York, and considerably within this division. Whe-
ther this was because of the original occupancy or not, we
can not undertake to say ; but it is odd that Onondaga
county, which extends from Manlius to Jordan and beyond
Skaneateles, should have been the residence of those (On-
ondaga) Indians who were to the Iroquois what the tribe
of Levi Was to the children of Israel — they composed the
priesthood, and were greatly venerated. The Onondagas
had charge of the sacred council-fires around which war
was resolved upon or peace decreed. A remnant of the
ancient race of Onondagas still reside upon the Reserva-
tion ; their number is about 400. When at Newark, 13
miles beyond Clyde, we are reminded that spiritualism
made its first "rap" near by, at Hydesville, a small place
2 miles distant, where it was first heard by the noted " Fox

Lvelers in

are very

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, marshy-
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ugh this
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pepper-
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L6 of the
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ondaga
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«^o Mormon, .ettleSrjgS^ X^*^^'- "' ^^^P'^ S""",
^va» 14 years of age. l/S T' " "'"* ^"'»°"« impostor

"golden plates," ^]Uch 1 Lr/'T' '" *^"^ ">' "-
bore a very bad reputation"'- "^''^ J-°""g maa
ji;«H,. His book CSt:S*o" rf ^"'^ ^'' "'^"
a farmer of the region Jfort i n w ' *''" '''P''°«« "f

farm therefor. The &r'st''T ^ ' '''^''' "^^^ffaged his

June, 1830, with ao d pes pX""" "'^ '''^^'^ «' ^^^'^
for campmeetings witif tie F T' f '''° " ^"'^"^''^ «"«
Of the Methodist^ChulVtL ::„f *''''''-*^-^ ^-=--"t
ago to follow a clergyman BT IT '°"'' ^"^ °' '*' ^'^^^^
to secret societies and oth"; e'Jreme J'^' "'"" '^^P^^"'™
demnation and removal fm,,,?, .? ""'^ <'''°^«'' '"^ con-
«'ry. The sect is smilf^.ff *?"-''-' %-copal min
and in some parts of Ohio'andlTr-^ '"'''^'''^ hereabouts
cUefly bv extreme views oSre" 'aTdT' '!.'''^«'^^-'-<i
Paimyra and Chili, at which ktrl '"''''"'• ^^'^««n
le^e just started, the "S it^m " ""•' '"""^ '^ -'-
rather a monopoly of tlfo sunl """ ''""^^ ^'^^^

o- linds quitoconLon "t rXl^Tr^^*'"-"^' ^^'-'>
"monthly at Rochester, is thXf ™ "'""' P"'"^'^«'l

Atrnmor (old) eoad

- =;r Ts teHf r r- °^ ^— -

Seneca-lie close upon nd ,1, r''"'''^-^''^^""- ^^^
beautiful towns of Aubur" and fi ? '"' '■''"^'"^^= "'«

of our journey ; and indeed we/""'" '''"°"^ *» «"« Part
-e inland lake ^e.on:^;:-^;:;^^;-

in II

136

LAKES, EI VERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

resorts to pleasure-seekers. We must refer tlie reader to
our sketches of The Inland I akes of New York, for
more detailed reference to these charming little sheets of
water than wo can give in this steam-view.

The fourth station from Syracuse (17 miles) on the Old
Road is Ska.neateles — the point of departure for the lake of
that name, the town being located 5 miles distant. This
is about midway between Albany and Buffalo.

Auburn is 174 miles from Albany and 2G from Syracuse.
The American is the principal hotel, and very good, though
not first-class. If not absolutely " the loveliest village of
the plain," the reasons are two : the plain here is filled with
the most beautiful villages, strangely similar, and Auburn
is a city. The visitor will, perhaps, be at the trouble to
see Seward Park, the home of our present national Secre-
tary of State ; the Theological Seminary of the Presbyterian
Church, headquarters of those presbyteries and synods of
Central New- York which, " exscinded" in 1837 from the
General Assembly, were the nucleus of the since great
" New School" branch of that church. The State Prison
will be interesting to some tourists, possibly — more par-
ticularly, if at all, for the Asylum for Insane Convicts,
which, being the only one in the count: is well worthy
a visit.

The cemetery, called Fort Hill, (where the Cayuga chief
Logan lies buried,) i? built upon an eminence which evi-
dently belongs to that large class of mysterious mounds
left by our earliest predecessors upon this continent. (See
articles on Howe's Cave, Saint Louis, and other sites.)
This one is clearly believed to be a fortification of that
ancient people of whom the present Indians can give us
no account, being far out-dated by them. They doubtless
belonged to the same general stock as the aborigines of

LAKES, EIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS.

137

Mexico, the Aztecs; and they are usually called the
Mound-Builders, or the Alleghans. This fort is supposed
to have been built prior to the discovery of the continent
by Columbus, and occupied by them for several centuries,
until at last the Cayugas overpowered them. These latter
called the place Osco, or Was Kough, and was their prin-
cipal village until the whites came.

Cayuga, 11 miles west of Auburn, is a good eating-
Etation, at the foot of Cayuga Lake. The merits of this
beautiful and favorite sheet of water are noticed elsewhere,
as already mentioned.

Seneca Falls, 5 miles further — 190 from Albany — is sit-
uated upon the banks of the Seneca River, and the outlet
of Seneca Lake. The river is about 14 miles long, and
has here a fall of 50 feet, which furnishes considerable
water-power. It was in this township that Mr£ Amelia
Bloomer first introduced the dress reform, and the style of
dress that takes her name. The scene of Bayard Taylor's
Hannah Thurston is laid in this vicinity.

Geneva, (Kanadesaga was the Indian name,) 7 miles be-
yond Waterloo, and 10 from Seneca Falls, is perhaps the
most beautiful village upon the line, having the special
advantage of a lake view from the ridge or terrace, 100
feet high, along which runs its principal residence avenue.
Hobart College, one of the chief institutions of the Episco-
l^al Church, is located on this avenue, overlooking the
breadth of Seneca Lake. The attractions of this most
beautiful sheet of water may be found elsewhere in this vol-
ume. The country about is fertile and picturesque. Several
miles out is the " Banner Farm" of the State, belonging to
Gideon Lee, Esq., of New- York City ; and a short distance
from the village is another monument of the m d-
builders. A mile and a half north-west of the villag*; is a

138

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

II i'

plot of gronncl, called Old Castle. It contains an Indian
buryinfy-orround, and in giving up the country, the Indians
stipulated that these few sacred acres should never bo
plowed. This pledge has not been violated.

Hotels. — The Mansion House, and the United States,
$3.50 per day,

Clifton is 64 miles from Syracuse, 40 from Rochester,
and 212 from Albany. It is the site of the famous Clifton
Springs, under which title they are discussed elsewhere.

Canandaigua is both on the Central and on the Erie
Railway, 223 miles from Albany. The name is a corrup-
tion of Gan-a-dar-que, "a chosen spot," named by the
Seneca Indians. The village is located on the outlet of
Canandaigua Lake, and is the capital of Ontario county.
It is equally distinguished for the picturesque beauty of
its situation, and the elegance of its buildings. The ground
descends gently from the upper part of the village toward
the lake, of which it commands an extensive prospect.
Population, about 5000. In a room of the court-house are
suspended the portraits of many of the most distinguished
pioneers of the country, and many important officers of the
United States. Brigham Young, the Patriarch of Utah,
was long a resident of Canandaigua ; and Fayette, where
the first Mormon society was formed, in 1830, three years
after the pretended unearthing of the golden plat-^s, is in
the adjoining county of Seneca.

The city of Rochester is distant from Syracuse 81 miles
by Direct Road, and 104 by the Auburn Road. Distances
beyond this are always reckoned by the first route, over
which the express trains travel 71 m- best hotels at Ro-
chester are : Osburn House, Ma'.r piret-t ; Brackett House
and Congress Hall, at the depot. Tie Ir ?t of Jiese charges
$3.50 per day, and being of limited rAze, accommodates

LAKES,

EIVERS, AiTD MOUNTAINS.

139

'I ;

only transient boarders. Its table is the best in the city ;
the other houses excel in rooms and situation, and charge
about $4 per day . The Clinton Hotel, on Exchange street,
is a good second-class house, $3 per day. Horse-cars com-
municate with both the distant houses, about a quarter-
mile. The Erie Railway, or " Valley depot," is situated
on the same street with the Clinton Hotel, nxore than
half a mile from the Central depot ; horse-cars passing
the former run within one block of the latter.

The " lions'* of Rochester are the Falls of the Genesee,
which may be found described under the proper title else-
where. The city-cars run within a short distance of all
three. After these, one wishes to visit the University (Bap-
tist) of Rochester, on University avenue, nearly 2 miles out
Main street. This elegant edifice contains what is called
the finest geological collection in the country. The Ro-
chester Theological (also Baptist) Seminary has a very un-
promising building at present, but boasts the finest theolo-
gical library save one (Union Seminary, New- York City) in
the United States. Saint Mary's Hospital is a fine, light
granite structure further out in the same direction. The
Arcade, on Main street, containing the post-office and a
variety of stores, is worth a visit. All these places are
reached by the city cars, as also Mount Hope Cemetery, a
very beautiful ]}lace near tl\e Genesee River, commanding
from its tower a view of Lake Ontario. On the way
thither, after crossing the river, one should visit the fa-
mous nurseries (EUwanger and Barry's, 500 acres, the
chief) which are the greatest and finest in the world.
Rochester is the great centre and mart of the Genesee
Valley, and is the most beautiful city, beyond comparison,
in the Empire State, both in its business and residence
streets. Like the citizens of Providence, its thrifty people

140

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

own tlie dwellings tliey occupy, and beautify them with
delightful public spirit ; but for a stranger seeking a board-
ing-house, there is not a more unpromising place imagin-
able, unless hotel-life will content him.

BUFFALO ROAD.

Passing west of Rochester, on the main road which goes
direct to Buffalo through Pcrgen and Batavia, we come
upon Chili, 10 miles out, only interesting to any one for
the new Free Methodist school established there.

Byron, 253 miles from Albany, is a small station, con-
taining about 200 inhabitants. A sulphuric acid spring,
popularly known as the Sour Spring, flows from a hill
near the village. Gypsum is quarried in the village.

Batavia and Buffalo. — See paragraphs in article on The
Erie Railway.

The Charlotte branch extends from Rochester northward
to Lake Ontario at the port of Charlotte (accented on the
final syllable) 6 miles. The ride to the lake is a charming
one, through the woods, with many a glimpse of the
Genesee River, at whose mouth it ends ; and at the dock
of the Ontario Steamboat Company a fine view of the lake
may be had. For the trip on Ontario, see article, entitled
LaivE Ontario and the Saint Lawrence. Passengers
for Toronto from New- York come thus far by the Central
Railway, and take steamboat Corintliian. Fare, about
$2.50, including meals and state-rooms. Distance, about
70 miles. Toronto may also be reached by the fine boats
of the Ontario Steamboat (American Express Line) Com-
pany, whose office is two doors from Congress Hall.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIJ/S.

PALLS ROAD.

Tlie other division from Rochester, extending on a more
northerly line to Niagara Falls, has much morb interest
than the Buffalo Road to tourists. It is commonly called
the " Falls Road."

Brockport, 17 miles from Rochester, 945 from Albany, is
a pleasant village, where is one of the new Normal Schools
of the State.

Holley, 249 miles from Albany, is interesting for 2 sul-
l^hur and several salt springs in the vicinity, from the lat-
ter of which salt was formerly manufactured.

Medina, 268 miles, is famous for its quarries of Medina
sandstone, excellent for paving purposes. There are se-
veral salt springs in the vicinity.

Gasport, 278 miles, derives its name from a curious
spring, which emits an inflammable hydro-carbon gas or
vapor. An enterprising storekeeper has succeeded in con-
verting this vapor to a useful purpose by lighting his
store with it. The place contains a church, an academy,
and 800 inhabitants.

Lockport, 284 miles, is very well worthy a visit, both
for its natural and its architectural attractions. Here are
5 consecutive locks of the Erie Canal, which overcome
an elevation of nearly 60 feet ; the surplus water afford-
ing a great power to the many manufactories of the vil-
lage. In the construction of this work a solid limestone
barrier was excavated from 25 to 30 feet in depth, 62 feet
in width, and 15 feet for a tow-path. Water in any de-
sirable quantity may be drawn from the Erie level, and
returned to the canal, 60 feet below, without detriment to
navigation. Fine limestone and sandstone flaggings and
building materials are quarried here, affording employ-
ment to several hundred men. One stratum of the lime-

V \

PHI

11
I

142

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

I' i

stone is filled with fossils, and, when polished, presents a
sinf^ular and beautiful appearance. It is used for orna-
mental purposes.

Suspension Bridge has been already mentioned in the
article on Niagara Falls ; and with that we come to the
end of our journey, since we have nothing to note on the
small branch of the railway which diverges at Lockport,
running to Buffalo.

THE WYOMING VALLEY.

The Susquehanna River, which enters the Appalachian
system of mountains at Towanda, Bradford county, Pa.,
by breaking the western chain, rolls the great volume
of its waters over a rocky bed, through several ridges
in rapid succession, and enters the Wyoming Valley by
a marked mountain-pass above the mouth of Lackawannock
Creek, called Lackawannock Gap ; thence flows in a serpen-
tine course about 20 miles, and leaves the Valley through
another opening of the same mountain, called Nanticoke
Gap. These passages, which have width only sufficient
to admit the river, are partly faced with perpendicular
rocks, covered by a thick growth of pine and laurel-trees.
The river is in most places about 200 yards wide, from 4
to 20 feet deep, and moves with a very gentle current, ex-
cept at the rapids, or when swelled with rain or melted
snows. Near the centre of the valley it has a rapid, called
the Wyoming Falls, and another at the lower gap, de-
signated as the Nanticoke Falls. Several tributary streams
fall into it on each side, after traversing rocky passes, form-
ing beautiful cascades as they descend to the plain. From
the north-west are Toby's Creek, Moses's Creek, and Island
Run; from the south-east Mill Creek, Laurel Run, Solo-
mon 'b Creek, Nanticoke Creek ; all affording excellent

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUISTAINS.

14;

mill-sites and abounding with fisli, cliiofly tlio speckled
trout.

The particular Valley of Wyominpf is a continuation of
that of the Lackawannock, which taken together have an ex-
tent of 32 miles, by a mean breadth of 2.^ miles. Dr. Silliman
(the elder) has thus described the Valley : " Its form is that
of a very long oval or ellipsis. It is bounded by grand
mountain barriers, and watered by n noble river and its
tributaries. The first glance of a stranger entering it at
either end, or crossing the mountain ridges which divide
it (like the Happy Valley of Abyssinia) from the rest of
the world, fills him with peculiar pleasure, produced by a
fine landscape, containing richness, beauty, and grandeur.
From Prospect Hill, on the rocky summit of the eastern
barrier, and from Ross Hill, on the west, the Valley of
Wyoming is seen in one view, as a charming whole, and
its lofty and well-defined boundaries exclude more distant
objects from mingling in the scene. Few landscapes that
I have beheld can vie with the Valley of Wyoming."

In story, Wyoming is not less rich than in natural
beauty and mineral treasure. (For the mineral wealth of
this mountain valley is as remarkable as its natural attrac-
tions. Iron and coal abound. The whole region is one an-
thracite coal-field, in depths of 3 to 27 feet.) Not only did
the aborigines whom our forefathers knew make this
a favorite ground, but it was beloved by the race long an-
terior to them, whose unexplained monuments alone re-
main to us. One of the few of these now existing at all is
a defensive mound or rampart in Kingston township, on a
level x)lain upon the north side of Toby's Creek, about 150
feet from the bank and a half-mile from the confluence
with the Susquehanna. When the Europeans first came
to Wyoming, this plain was covered with a primitive

.( ! 'I

,i »

ifn

144

LAKES, mVEKS, AND MOUNTAIJSS.

forest, chiefly oak and yellow pine ; and tlio trees on the
rampart and in the trench were as large as tliose in any
other part of the valley ; one groat oak particularly, upon
being cut down, was ascertained to have flourished 700
years. The Indians had no traditions concerning these
fortifications, nor any knowledge of their use.

The terrible Battle of Wyoming, to which, alas I most
of us are indebted chiefly for our familiarity with the name
of this beautiful tract, and which has been so often a iTuit-
ful theme for pen and pencil, occurred July od, 1778. The
colonial settlers, who had previously been at variance on
account of being interested in charters from different au-
thorities, had, at the breaking out of the Revolution, united
in an effort to form a home-guard for self-protection. Two
companies thus formed were, however, ordered to join
General Washington, and a third, imperfectly organized
and equipped, in 1778, was unequal to the terrible need
that soon arose. A body of 400 British and 700 Indians,
chiefly Senecas, under Colonel John Butler, entered the
Valley June 30th, 1778 ; and the inhabitants having taken
refuge in Fort Forty, (so called from the number in one of
the bands of settlers, those from Connecticut,) a feeble
force of 300 men, (commanded by Colonel Zebulon Butler,
a continental officer,) gave battle on the 3d of July, and
lost. Then followed the horrid massacre w hich, although
it is now certain that the Indian Brant did not participate
in it, and that the whole affair has been exaggerated, has
had few parallels in American history until the era of se-
cession. The whole number of sufferers is put down in
Dana's Cydopcedia at 300. Few of the ill-fated people es-
caped. Prisoners were grouped around large stones, and
were murdered with the tomahawk, amid yells and incan-
tations of fiendish triumph. One of these stones of in-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

145

liuman pacrifico may yet bo Bocn in the valley. It is
called Queen Estlu r's Hock, from tho half-breed Indian
woman who there avenged her son's death by tomahawk-
ing 14 Soldiers, and lies near the old river-bank, some 3
miles above Fort Forty. Tho villa<?o of Wilkesbarro was
burnt at this time, and its inhabitants were either killed,
taken j)risoners, or scattered in the surroundinf^^ forests.
Tho site of Fort Forty is across the river from Wilkes-
barro, past tho opposite village of Kingston, and nearly
west of Troy, 4.} miles distant. At this spot, where the
slain were buried, there now stands a monument comme-
morative of the great disaster. It is an obelisk G2i feet
high, made of granite blocks hewn in the neighborhood.
The names of those who fell, and of those who were in the
battle and survived, are engraved upon marble tablets sei;
in the base of the monument. This praiseworthy work
was done by the exertions of the ladies of Wyoming.

Nanticoke and West-Xanticoke are little coal-villagca
at tho southern extremity of the Wyoming Valley, 8 miles
by rail from Wilkesbarro, where, as we have already inti-
mated, occur some of the boldest passages of the scenery
of tlio Susquehanna. A beautiful view of the Wyomin,o- is
seen looking northward from the hills on the east side of
the river near Nanticoke ; and the scenes below, from the
banks of the river and tho canal, are most varied and de-
lightful. Tho coal-mines of this neighborhood may easily
bo penetrated, and with ample remuneration for tho ven-
ture.

Jessup's is a very cozy, lone inn, upon the west shore, 2
or 3 miles below Nanticoke, from whence are seen striking
pictures of the river and its bold mountain banks both
above and below ; the hills in all this vicinity are impres-
sively bold and lofty, making the comparatively narrow

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146

LAKES, E EBS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

II Ir

channel of the river seem yet narrower. Shickshinny and
Wapwallopen are little places yet below, in the midst
of a rugged hill and valley, region.

The route to Wyoming Valley from New- York is by the
New-Jersey Central Railway to Hampton Junction, 59
miles ; thence by the Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western,
83 miles, to Scranton; and thence by the Lackawanna
and Blpomsbury Railway, 17 miles, to Kingston, opposite
Wilkesbarre, which is the headquarters of the valley dis-
;trict.

The route from Philadelphia is by the North Pennsyl-
vania Railway to Bethlehem, and thence by the Lehigh
Valley and Lehigh and Susquehanna Railways to Wilkes-
barre. The Wyoming Valley Hotel is one of the best in
fthe State, with ample accommodations for 250 guests.
The town is reached by stage, one mile from the railway
depot. It is regularly laid off in wide, well-shaded streets,
with a public square and a court-house near the centre. It
contains several handsome church edifices, and a popu-
lation of about 7000. Among its principal attractions for
tourists are Prospect Rock, which commands a fine view
of the valley, Battle Monument, Harvey's Lake, etc.

•♦•

IHE HIGHLANDS OF NEW-JERSEY.

11:1

I! I ^

THE MOBSIS AND ESSEX EAILWAT.

* 'There can be no more pleasing region for a subui'ban
summer residence for New-Yorkers than the line of the
Morris and Essex Railway, in the State of New-Jersey.
Within the past few years, exiled tax-payers have begun
to wake up to the charms of Morris and Essex counties in

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

147

the ** out-of-tlio-world " State, and now, where there used
to be but two stopping-stations, there are upward of a
dozen within 20 miles of the city. Recently, too, the in-
creased facilities which the extension of the Morris and
Essex Railway to Easton have offered to commerce, have
made the route somewhat widely known as a new and
most direct avenue to the West. The whole line of the
railway, as far as Chatham (26 miles) at least, is one con-
tinued garden, such as one sees on several of the roads
leading through the suburbs of Boston. The laying of a
new grade and a double track, with the inconvenient in-
crease of business, has retarded certain improvements
which summer tourists will miss ; but the region opened
by the road is too attractive ever to lose the prestige which
it has now among some of its frequenters.

Morristown, now a city, 32 miles, the capital of Morris
county, is splendidly situated on tho Whippany River.
It is noteworthy as having been the headquarters of the
American army on two occasions. The house occupied by
General Washington is still visible from the railway.
The town contains a fine public square, court-house, and
several churches. Population, 4000. Speedwell Lake lies
in the near vicinity of the liotels. At Chester, 12 miles by
stage, (until a branch railway is completed,) summer
board may be found at moderate prices at the Young La-
dies' Institute, Miss Megie, principal. This is in the midst
of a very pleasant, quiet region, which affords a delight-
ful retreat for persons tired of the noisier places.

Dover, 44 miles, fare $1.45, is headquarters for persons
going to the lakes and to Schooley's Mountain. The
Mansion House, by I. B. Jolley, is the best hotel in the
county, open all the ye^ r round, with rooms for nearly 100
guests. The excellent livery-stable of Mr. Jolley is in

148

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

constant activity through the summer season, as most
parties prefer to leave the railway at Dover and seek the
watering-places by stage or carriage from Jolley's. The
Stickle House, W. Jones, proprietor, can accommodate 50
persons. Distances from Dover as follows : to Schooley's
Mountain, 30 miles ; to Lake Hopatcong, (Brookland
Pond,) 6 miles ; Long Pond, 10 miles ; Green Pond, 30
miles ; Seneca wana (Budd's) Lake, 7 miles. The remain-
ing lake of the Highlands of Ne\\ -Jersey, G: eenwood, is
mentioned in the article on The Erie Railway ; it is not
usually included in the tour from Dover.

BUDD'S (SENECAWANA) LAKE.

Lake Senecawana, commonly called Budd's Lake, is 3
miles from Stanhope, on the Morris and Essex Railway, 54
miles from New- York City. Stages run from all trains
during the summer to Forest Grove House, on a hill di-
rectly in front of the lake. Passengers also come from
Dover as already stated. The entire circumference of
Senecawana — it is quite circular — is not more than 3^
miles, and its whole surface can be distinctly seen fro'n
the b^ilcony of the hotel. One is charmed at first sight.
The white, clear water, the margin of which is lined on
every side with dense foliage ; the sloping hill and culti-
vated fields, teeming, a little later in the season than this,
(May,) with rich cereals, together with the mountains ap-
pearing in the distance, present a view picturesque and
unique, of which the eye never tires. Fishing is the com-
mon pastime. The piscatory sportsman is not satisfied
with his finny game unless he bring home some heavy
pickerel. This lake, occupying one of the healtliiest locali-
ties of the Highlands, is a favorite resort of the ladies, and
ought to be called the Ladies' Lake. It is so easy of ac-

I't'

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 149

ied

nd
ac-

cess, retired, quiet, neat, and sure of good accommodations,
they always feel at home. They are not afraid to sail, or
row, or ride at anchor, as their boat is always in sight ;
and if unsuccessful in angling, they seldom fail to secure
a quantity of the white, fragrant lilJes which grow near
the shor**, and are constantly in bloom.

The hotel, kept by Messrs. J. M. Sharp & Co., is one
well-knov.'n in select metropolitan circles, and is always
full of excellent society. There are rooms for about
300 guests. Teims, $3 per day, $15 to $31 per week.
Telegraph stations at Stanhope and Dover.

LAKE HOFATCONG, (BBOOKLAND FOND.)

Lake Hopatcong is 6 miles south from Senecawana,
(Budd's Lake,) and 4 from Drakesville, a station on the
Morris and Essex Railway. Stages from this station and
from Dover, 6 miles, convey passengers to the hotel, the
Lake Hopatcong House. Mr. Hiker, proprietor, can find
room for some 75 guests ; but the accommodations at this
lake are decidedly inferior to those elsewhere in the High-
lands, while the attractions of the lake itself "^re much
greater. There is no telegraph station nearer than Dover,
6 miles. The house has usually a large and fashionable
patronage during the summer, including a number of the
most aristocratic families of New- York City. Mr. August
Belmont has spent a num jer of summers here. The terms
for this, as well as for the other houses in this region, will
not vary far from those given for Senecawana — $3 per day,
and $15 to $21 per week.

The Indian name of this lake, Hopatcong, according to
George Copway, signifies " Stone Water," or " Stone over
Water." It was probaoly given to it on account of an
ancient ridge here, which is a regular causeway of stone.

150

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

running from an island nearly across to tho shore, a dis-
tance of about a quarter of a mile. It was, no doubt,
made by the Indians, and was a work of great labor. The
water is noW a little above it, occasioned by the raising of
the lake for the Morris and Essex Canal, which is supplied
by a feeder from the Hopatcong outlet. On the opposite
shore are, or used to be, found great numbers of Indian
arrows, axes, and broken jaiB ; and appearances indicate
it was the site of an Indian village. The more familiar
name applied to the lake by the country people round
about is Brookland Pond ; and the chances are, that a visi-
tor in the somewhat primitive region close around the
lake, inquiring for " Lake Hopatcong," would find that it
had never been heard of. Among the children of civiliza-
tion, however, the local title is ignored for the Indian one.
The lake is usually said to be 9 miles in length, though,
measured in a straight line, it is not more than 5^ miles.
We can hardly speak of direct length to water that
abounds in islands and has its coves and bights whose in-
dentations are terminated by perpendicular cliffs or exten-
sive mountain slopes. The scenery here, unlike that of
Budd's Lake, is ever changing with your change of posi-
tion. The shore, little cultivated, is for the most part a
forest, whose deciduous foliage, interspersed with a variety
of evergreens, presents every shade of green from the
lightest salix to the darkest cedar. The surface of the
lake is 720 feet above the Hudson at New- York, and 660
feet above the Delaware at Easton. A steamboat crosses
the lake several times a day in the service of the canal.
There are all manner of recreations possible here, the
chief being fishing : pickerel, perch, catfish, eels, and sal-
mon-trout are the principal ones caught. Two islands of
considerable note lie over against each other — Canfield

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

151

and Halsey — the one near the head and the other near the
foot of the lake. Canfield Island has a fine garden upon
it ; the other still maintains its primeval state, and is the
favorite picnicking ground for excursionists.

J^Yom Southard's Peak, a few yards east of the hotel,
you have a fine view of the surrounding country ; on the
west is the Delaware Water Gap, and on the cast the
Bloomfiold Mountains.

5ty

al.
,he
al-
of

SCHOOLET'S MOUNTAIN.

Schooley's Mountain, the most famous resort in the
Highlands, is a ridge of considerable extent, Budd's Lake
being upon one part of its summit. There are two hotels,
both well known and well kept — ^tlie Belmont House, D.
A. Crowell, proprietor, 300 guests, and the Heath House,
same capacity. Telegraph at the Belmont. The height
of the mountain is about 1100 feet above the sea. Springs,
containing muriate of soda, of lime, and of maf^nesia, sul-
phate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, and silex, and car-
bonated oxide of iron, are near its summit. The drives in
the region are very fine indeed, and, for citizens of the me-
tropolis, there is no more delightful resort within a half-
day's journey. The society at the mountain is always ex-
cellent. Terms as at the lakes.

Tourists from New-York come by the Morris and Essex
Railway, 63 miles to Hackettstown, and thence 2^ miles
by stage. The ride from Dover, 20 miles, is, of course,
more wearisome, but attractive in its scenery. There is
no stage to or from Dover. Visitors from the south pro-
ceed ma Philadelphia and New-Brunswick, connecting
with the NewJersey Central Railway at Bound Brook,
and from this line as above.

152

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

THE VALLET OF THE NAXJGATUCK.

Travelers going north and east from New- York City
may find a very beautiful detour from the regular Connec-
ticut Valley route, in the ra'lway which separates from
the latter at Bridgeport, and pursues the direct northerly
course of a small but beautiful river, called the Naugatuck.
The Housatonic Railway, taking name from the stream
which it follows, also commences at Bridgeport, having its
terminus at Pittsfield, Mass., 110 miles distant. The Nau-
gatuck Railway follows the course of its river likewise,
taking advantage of the passes, which it secures, through
and between the hills, and ends at Winsted, 63 miles.
Bridgeport is reached from New- York City by steamboat,
from Pier 35, East River, at 12 M., or by railway, from 27th
Street, at 8 A.M. and 3 p.m. The morning train affords
the opportunity to see the country, and return to Bridge-
port in the afternoon, arriving at 5.30 o'clock, or to stop
over night, and in the morning go on by stage from Win-
sted to Canaan, (Housatonic Railway,) Ct., whence by
rail to Pittsfield, at 5.35 p.m. Fare, New- York to Bridge-
port, $1.70 ; Bridgeport to Winsted, $2.05 ; stage fare, 15
miles, $1.50 ; Canaan to Pittsfield, about $1.25. Pittsfield
is 51 miles from Springfield, on the Boston and Albany
(Western) Railway.

The Housatonic and Naugatuck Rivers are important
mill-streams which give life and activity to a very large
number of factories in all departments of mechanical labor.
Such are the Wheeler & Wilson Sewing-Machine facto-
ries, at Bridgeport; the brass and copper-mills, and the
clock-shops, of Phelps, Dodge and Company, at Ansonia ;
the pin factories, at Waterbury ; the 25 or 30 paper-mills,
in Lee, etc. The Housatonic trip is made the subject of a
separate sketch. •;

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAI.^S.

153

The Naugatuck River rises within tlie confines of Con-
necticut, in that mountainous corner which composes
Litchfield county. The country, for the first few miles of
its progress, and behind it, is not very inviting to the tra-
veler ; but at the station called Litchfield, where the rail-
way first meets the river on the way to Bridgeport, the
scenery becomes very pleasing. Litchfield, lying 2 or 3
miles west of the station, is one of the most beautiful of
Connecticut inland villages. It is the county-seat, and
was the birth-place of Henry Ward Beecher. (See Hou-
SATONio Valley sketch.) Its original Indian name was
Bantam — one of the few cases where the whites have im-
proved upon the aboriginal title. The village is an active,
pleasant place, occupying cliiefly two broad avenues at
right angles, and boastmg, like most New-England towns,
a fine park or " green." In the immediate vicinity. Mount
Tom (not the companion of Holyoke) rises 700 feet, and
one of the largest lakes in the State affords good fishing
and rowing.

Before we betake ourselves to the river-rail route, let
us stop a moment at Winsted, the northern terminus of
the Naugatuck Railway. It hardly boasts special attrac-^
tions. The railway terminus is at the western end of the
town, in what is called West-Winsted. On the summit of
the hill, behind the Beardsley House, (principal hotel,
wh3re one going to Canaan will stay over night ; terms,
$2.50 or $3 per day,) there is a charming lake of clear
and deep waters. The surrounding country does not
tempt others than disciples of Izaak Walton.

Below Litchfield, and quite continuously to Derby, the
railway traverses the banks of the river, amid the most ro-
mantic scenery. Cramped into a narrower channel by the
frowning hills which shut it in on every side, and dispute

154

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

its passage with a Yankee pertinacity, the Naugatuck foams
and leaps and meanders in its zeal to reach the open ba-
sin below. There can be no more channing scenery than
that here afforded — where a railway, not important enough
to undertake the removing of mountains and the filling
up of valleys, simply affords us an opportunity to watch
all along a rapid ride the changing aspects of river and
woodland scenery.

Waterbury marks the half of our ride, about 80 miles
from either terminus. There is absolutely nothing natu-
ral to see here, but a great deal of industry. Most of the
15,000 inhabitants are in one way or another connected
with the many manufactories in the city. Waterbury is
the only city in the State, west of New-Haven, except
Bridgeport. Hotels — Adams Hotel, (near the depot, second-
class,) and Scovill House, a quarter-mile distant. The Pro-
vidence, Hartford, and Fishkill Railway has had its ter-
minus here for some years, but hopes ultimately to reach
the Hudson River at Fishkill, j,nd cross it by a now pro-
spective bridge. (See page 27.)

The Naugatuck River falls into the Housatonic at
Perby, 18 miles below Waterbury, 14 from Bridgeport.
The main river here swells to nearly a mile in width, and
presents a very beautiful view. Contracts have been
made for a stone bridge across the Naugatuck at the nar-
rows, in Derby. Its complete cost will be about $20,000.
The Housatonic Railway does not come within 5 or 6 miles
of the river which names it, at this point. Beyond this,
the Naugatuck Railway folk vs the shore of the Housa-
tonic (which is navigable up to Derby from the Soimd)
until it crosses at Stratford ; from there to Bridgeport the
cars run upon the track of the New- York and New-Haven
Company, and our especial attention ceases.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

155

WOODSTOCK, CT.

Woodstock is situated in Windham county, in the north-
eastern corner of tlie State of Connecticut, surrounded by
a country of pfreat beauty, embracing within its reach the
varied attractions of lake and woodland, hill and dale,
beautiful drives, etc. It is really one of the most delight-
ful retreats in Nevv-England. Overlooking a valley
stretching for 80 miles north and south, the view from
the piazza of the hotel is one of exquisite loveliness. A
mile away is Woodstock Lake, skirted by primeval woods
and abounding in fish. Henry Ward Beecher, our au-
thority for Connecticut scenery, says : " Its like I do not
know anywhere. It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and
its prospect, the Connecticut Valley in miniature."

Hotel. — Elmwood Hall, Mr. Amasa Chandler, proprie-
tor, is open from June 15th to the close of the season. It
has a fine " common" in front of the house, and a park on
the opposite side of the street. Visitors to this place leave
the Norwich and Worcester Railway at Putnam. Car-
riages from the hotel wait at every train, and a mail-coach
leaves Putnam for Woodstock, daily, at 5 o'clock P.M.

MANSFIELB AND MEMFHBEMAOOG.

Mount Mansfield, the loftiest (4469 feet) of the Green
Hills, is 15 miles from Waterbury Station. It is easily
reached from the village of Underhill Centre on the north,
or yet more easily from the pleasant village of Stowe on
the south, both of which points may be reached from the
Vermont Central road — Underhill from Jonesville Sta-
tion, and Stowe from Waterbury. Stages leave Water-
bury for Stowe (10 miles) on arrival of trains. Mansfield
is 20 miles from Burlington. Stowe is a pretty country
village, lying in the valley between Mansfield and Wor-

150

LAKES, HI VERS, AND MOUNTAINS,

ccster Mountains, and one of tlio loveliest possible spots for
a summer rcHidenco among the mountains. The walks
and drives in the vicinity are delijflitful. Sunset Hill, cast
of tlie hotel, commands a fine view of Mansfield as well as
the surrounding country. The principal drives are: to
Mount ^Mansfield, 8 miles ; Smuffgler's Notch, 8 miles —
one of the most wild and romantic places in the country ;
Bingham's Falls, 5 miles; Moss Glen Falls, 3i^ miles;
Gold Brook, 3 miles ; West Hill, 2 miles ; Morrisvillo Falls,
8 miles ; Johnson Falls, 13 miles ; Nebraska, milob. The
chief hotel at Stowo is the Mount Mansfield House, kept by
Mr. Leonard Lovo. Rooms for 400 guests ; billiard-tables,
bowling-alley, and a fine livery stable. The summit of the
mountain is 8 miles distant, as stated above ; but the hotel
accommodations hero make Stowo the favorite point of de-
parture. The Summit House, on the top of Mansfield, can
accommodate 100 guests. The terms at each house (same
proprietors) are $3.50 per day.

Before reaching the village of Stowo, or from the ob-
ser^^atory of the Mansfield Hotel, the tourist can get a good
view of Mount Mansfield. The outline of the summit
resembles human features. Old Mansfield, as is imagined,
is in a reclining posture, his face turned upward. The
north peak represents the chin, the middle the nose, and
the southern the forehead. This mountain is the highest
in Vermont, and from it can be seen elevations in every
county in the State. The chin is 4348 feet above the sea,
3800 feet above the village of Stowe, and 340 above the
nose. The nose is IGO feet above the forehead.

The view from the summit is very extensive. The
Winooski is hardly seen, except here and there, resem-
bling the smallest possible rivulet. On either hand, as
far as you can see, the eye rests upon hundreds of mountain

*■

LAKES, UIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

157

peaks, Btnitcliing away into tlio thick, dark hazo vliicli
BurrouiulH tlioin. \\'e8t lies the pfroat valli^y of tho Cham-
plain, and still boyond, 10 miles distant, is tlio lake itselt',
tho wholo h'njuftli of which comes under tho eyo. A few
miles from its western shore riso tho lofty peaks of tlio
famous Adirondacks. North is the wid.e-spread valley of
the Saint Lawrence ; and in favorable weather, with tho
aid of the glass, steamtirs can bo seen upon its waters.
Montreal Mountain, with tho city (visible only in the best
weather) at its base. Jay Peak, and Owl's Head, the latter
•rising from the west bank of Lake Memphremagog, form
prominent features in tho landscape. In tho east, Fran-
conia range and the White Mountains, 00 miles distant,
limit the vision, while the intervening space is covered
with numberless hills and mountains. South can be seen
Camel's Hump, Killington Peak, and Ascutney.

The Valley and River op Winooski. — The Winooski
traverses almost tho entire breadth of Northern Vermont.
Rising in Caledonia county, its course is generally west-
ward to Lake Champlain, 40 miles from which it passes
through Montpelier. Some of its valley passages are
scenes of great pastoral beauty, strongly contrasted with
high mountain surroundings, the singularly-formed peak
of Camel's Hump continually showing itself, sometimes
barely peeping over intervening ranges, and again — as
near the middle of the valley stretch — coming into full
display. In places, the Winooski is a wild, turbulent
water, dashing over stern precipices and through rugged
defiles. It is found in this rough mood just above the vil-
lage of Winooski, a few miles fron. Burlington, where tho
waters rush in rapid and cascade through a ravine 100
feet deep. This picture is favorably seen from the railway.
Passing on into the open valley lands which succeed.

IS.

.58

LAKES, EIVERS, AND M^'UNTAINS.

Mount Camel's Hump comes finely into view, as the cen-
tral and crowning point of one of the sweetest pictures of
all this region. This is, next to Mansfield, the highest
of all the Green Mountain peaks, having an elevation of
4188 feet. It may be ascended, without much diflSculty,
from any side, though the usual point of leaving the rail-
way is at Ridley's, going south from which one can reach
the summit of Camel's Hump, 6 miles distant, by private
teams. A good carriage-road has been constructed 3 miles
up the mountain, and the remainder of the way is accom-
plished on horseback. Not far from the summit is a spring-
of excellent water, and also a house for the accommodation
of visitors. The view from the summit is similar to that
from Mount Mansfield. The height above the sea is 4083
feet, and some over 3800 above Winooski River. The
peculiar outline of its summit, which suggests its name,
and its comparatively isolated position, make it a conspicu-
ous object for many miles around. The mountain is
crowned by jagged, barren rocks, and the imposing scene
which the lofty heights overlook is in no way obstructed
by the forest vail, which often disappoints the hopeful
climber of forbidden mountain-tops. Bolton Falls, a few
miles below Waterbury, affords a pleasant excursion from
the Hump. The high bluffs on either side of the river
were evidently once united, forming a natural bridge.
Through it the river has finally worn a deep and narrow
channel. Perpendicular and overhanging rocks form the
gorge, while huge boulders, piled together, nearly bridge
the river at low water. Just after passing the falls, the
tourist can get a good view of them from the car- window,
where he win notice the foaming stream and the project-
ing rocks above.
Lake MEMPEHEMAGOG.^-Overshadowed by lofty moun-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

159

tain peaks wliicli rise io the height of nearly 3000 feet,
and bordered by dense forests and grassy slopes, in North-
ern Vermont and the Province of Quebec, is Lake Mem-
phremagog — " the Beautiful Water." In general appear-
ance it resembles Lake lioricon in Northern New- York. It
is 30 miles long and 2 wide, and lies in a deep and narrow
basin. About one third of the lake is in Vermont and the re-
mainder in Canada. There are no marshes or ponds of stag-
nant water along its banks, and its rock-bound shores' and
wooded islands give it a picturesque appearance. Fed by
mountain streams, pure and cold, it is the home of the
prince of the finny tribo, the speckled trout, which hero
attains unusual proportions. It is no uncommon thing to
catch those that weigh from 10 to 15 pounds, while old
fishermen, who are posted on favorite localities, will occa-
sionally show you one weighing from 30 to 40. The best
fishing places are near the Mountain House, at the base of
Owls Head, where the water is the coldest and deepest.

The principal hotels on the lake«are : Memphremagog
House, Mr. Lafayette Buck, proprietor, at Newport, Ver-
mont, south end, or head, of the lake ; Mountain House,
Mr. A. Co Jennings, proprietor, at Owl's Head, (mountain,)
12 miles from Newport ; and the Parks House, a new hotel,
at Magog, Quebec Province, at the head of the Magog River
through which the lake waters reach the Saint Lawrence.
The terms at these houses will not be found as high as at
the Newport by the sea, as this is within the influence of
Vermont moderation and hospitality. The Memphrema-
gog is the largest and most popular of the three hotels,
accommodating some 300 guests. Terms, $3.50 per day,
$21 for one and $35 for two weeks. It stands directly
upon the bank of the lake, fronting the bridges and the
railway, as well as the steamboat landing, and from its

*■

"-*!

160

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Iiwi

ii;

windows and broad piazzas an excellent view of the lake,
the mountains, and the surrounding country, is to be had.
The view of the lake is especially fine, embrpcing various
bays and promontories, with the famous Owl's Head in the
centre of the picture, and Bear Mountain and Mount Ele-
phantis upon either hand. The merit of the Mountain
House consists in its contiguity to Owl'.. Head, (see below,)
which tourists generally wish to climb. The house stands
upon the shore of a pleasant bay of the lake. The Parks
House is located nearest to Montreal, (see routes below,)
and affords a fine opportunity for becoming familiar with
Canadian towns, people, and customs.

Newport, Vermont, the principal and only important town
on Lake Memphremagog, is beautifully situated upon a
promontory projecting boldly out from the western shore
of Lake Memphremagog, about 3 miles from its head.
This promontory, long known as Pickerel Point, consists
of a lofty eminence called Prospect Hill, with a consider-
able area at its foot, upon which the village is built. Its
extremity approaching within a few hundred yards of the
eastern shore, this point was early selected as the proper
locality for a bridge, and for many years the village was
known as Lakebridge, a name which it would perhaps
have been well to retain. Six years ago, Newport num-
bered but ten or twelve houses ; now it is a large vil-
lage, containing many tasteful residences, both of citizens
residing permanently, and of others who make this their
summer home. Several large manufacturing establish-
ments give life to the place, and employment to its inhabi-
tants, while numerous stores make it the centre of local
trade for a large section of the surrounding country. Four
bridges, two for ordinary travel and two belonging to the
Passumpsic Railway, cross the lake here, and large wharves

iiiiiliiii

I* V :

I 1:

^■:^.^'-.:-M

■^1

■•V

t>'

■v.;%,'

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

161

furnish facilities for the navigation of the lake, most of
which centres at this point, the bridges preventing steam-
boats from ascending farther.

The fine new iron steamboat Lady of the Lake makes
two trips daily over the lake, from Newport, 7.30 a.m. and
1.15 P.M. to Magog, returning at 10.30 A.M. and 4.30 P.M.
There is a great number of interesting points on the route,
which will be agreeably noted by the captain as you pass,
and therefore do not need mention in detail here. The
chief places are : Mason's Point and Cavern, the Mountain
House Wharf, Skinner's (Smugglers') Cave, Balance Rock,
Concert Pond, near Mount Elephantis; Georgeville, (20
miles from Newport and 7i from Owl's Head, and having
one or two hotels ;) Knowlton's Landing, (whence stage to
Waterloo, 20 miles, connecting with railway for Saint
John's and Montreal ;) and Magog, at the foot of the lake.
Near Magog is Mount Orford, 3300 feet high, the most
extensive mountain in Quebec. It is 5 miles from Magog,
and a carriage-road has been constructed to its summit.

Next to the enjoyment of the lake itself, the view from
the summit of Owl's Head is the great attraction at Mem-
phremagog. The mountain is conical in shape, and 3000
feet high. Looking south, you see Clyde, Barton, and
Black Rivers, Newport, all the islands on the lake, and
the lake itself from end to end. To the north, Durham's
Point, Dewey's Point, Knowlton Bay, the Outlet, Orford
Mountain, and countless other objects. To the east, Sey-
mour Lake, Stanstead Plain, Rock Island, Salem Pond,
Charleston Pond, Derby Centre, Willoughby Lake, White
Mountains, Little Magog, Massawippee Lake, Georgeville,
etc. To the west, the continuation of the Green Mountain
Range. To the north-west, the Sugar Loaf and Ridge
Mountain, Broom Lake, and North and South Troy. In a

162

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

clear day, Montreal can be distinctly seen in the north-
west.

The tourist from New- York City will start from Twenty-
seventh Street depot at 8 A.M., (best,) or 3 or 8 P.M., and
pass througih New-Haven, Springfield, Greenfield, Bellows
Falls, White River Junction, etc. The Bostonian will go
by Lawrence, Manchester, and Concord, to White River
Junction, unless he choose to take the less direct route to
Greenfield or Bellows Falls, where he will strike the route
of New- York passengers. The journey by rail for the
whole distance to the lake is fine, einbracing much of the
best scenery of New -Hampshire or the Connecticut Valley,
according to the route selected ; but that on the Passump-
sic Railway is the best of all. This road, from White River
Junction, continues up the Connecticut River, crossing
White River at its mouth, and passes through the pictur-
esque Passumpsic Valley, guarded by massive hills on either
side. From car- windows, the tourist catches glimpses of
the sparkling and bubbling brooks as the train speeds
along ; of silvery ponds and miniature lakes ; of lofty
mountain peaks, and deep valleys and glens ; and of rich
and expansive meadows, and thrifty Vermont farms, some
of which sit right on the cap of the hill. After leaving
the Passumpsic, and passing the summit between the
waters flowing to the Sound and those flowing to the
Saint Lawrence, the route lies through the lovely Barton
River Valley, until it reaches the lake. ■ .

The distance from New- York to Newport, Vermont, is
365 miles, requiring 15 hours* ride. Through fare, $10.50.
To designate the route a little more fully, we may say :
Leaving Twenty-seventh Street depot at 8 a.m., you arrive
at the Massasoit House, Springfield, in time for a comfort-
able and capital dinner ; leaving at 2 p.m., sup and sleep

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

163

at tlio Island House, Bellows Falls. Leaving at 11.45
A.M., dine at White River Junction, and reach the Mem-
phremagog House, at Newport, at 6.30 p.m. This method
aflFords a complete daylight view of the railway scenery
above briefly described.

-♦♦•-

THE MAINE FOREST.

The most interesting route for the tourist in Maine to
take is perhaps that which leads through the hills, lakes,
and forests of the north ; but we warn him, beforehand,
that it will not be one of ease. Rugged roads and scant
physical comforts will not be his most severe trial ; ^br, in
many places, he will not find road or inn at all, but must
trudge along painfully on foot, or by rude skiff over the
lakes, and trust to his rifle and his rod to supply his
larder.

A great portion of the State is yet covered by dense for-
ests, the utilization of which is the chief occupation and
support of its inhabitants. The most fertile lands lie in
the central southern regions, between the Penobscot River
on the east and the Kennebec on the west, and in the val-
ley borders of other waters. The leading objects of inter-
est to tourists are the mountain ranges, which are bold
and imposing — one summit, that of Katahdin, having an
elevation of 5385 feet above the level of the sea. The
lakes are numerous, sometimes of great extent, and often
very beautiful. They are to be found throughout the
State, and more especially among the mountains in the
north. Indeed, it is estimated that one tenth part of the
whole area of Maine is covered by water. The rivers are
numerous and large, and present everywhere scenes of

n !

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164

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS.

great and varied beauty. Tlio Atlantic coast, wliicli occu-
pies the whole southern line of the State, is the finest in
the Union, in its remarkably bold, rocky character, and in
its beautiful harbors, bays, islands, and beaches. The sea-
islands of Maine are over 400 in number ; many of them
are very large, and covered by fertile and inhabited lands.
The climate, though marked by extremes, both of heat
and cold, is yet everywhere most healthful, its rigor being
materially modified by the proximity of the ocean.

In these wildest regions the exploration may be made
with great satisfaction by a party well provided with all
needed tent-equipage, and with all the paraphernalia of
the chase ; for deer, and the moose, and the wild-fowl are
abundant in the woods, and the finest fish may be freely
taken in the waters. Still, he may traverse most of the
mountain-lands and lakes by the roads and paths of the
lumbermen, who have invaded all the region ; and he may
bivouac, as comfortably as should content an orthodox for-
ester, in the humble shanties erected by the hardy back-
woodsmen. The mountains of Maine are broken and dis-
tinct peaks. A range, which seems to be an irregular
continuation of the White Hills of New-Hampshire, ex-
tends along the western side of the State for many miles,
and, verginfif toward the north-east, terminates in Mars
Hill. This chain divides the waters which flow north into
the River Saint John from those which pass southward to
the Atlantic. Many beautiful lakes lie within this territory.
The wilderness of Northern New- York (see The Adiron-
DACKs) has many features in common with the northern
mountain and lake region of Maine.

MOOSEHEAD LAKE.

Moosehead Lake, the largest in Maine, is among the
northern hills. It is 35 miles long, and, at one point, is 10

LAKES, RIVERS, A^^D MOUNTAINS.

165

miles in breadth, though near the centre there is a pass
not over a mile across. Its waters are deep, and furnish
ample occupation to the angler in their stores of trout and
other fish. This lake may be traversed in the steamboats
employed in towing lumber to the Kennebec. A summer
hotel occupies a very picturesque site upon the shore at
Greenville, at the foot of the lake. The Kineo House,
midway, the usual stopping-place, has recently been
burned. There are numerous islands on the Moosehead
Lake, some of which are of great interest. On the west
side, Mount Kineo overhangs the water at an elevation of
600 feet. Its summit reveals a picture of forest beauty
well worth the climbing to see. The roads thither, lying
through forest-land, are recesnarily somewhat rough and
lonely. This lake is the source of the great Kennebec
River, by whose channels (150 miles) its waters reach the
sea. The readiest approach from Boston or Portland is
via Newport or Bangor, on the Portland and Bangor Rail-
way. Stages leave both these stations for the lake, 60 miles
distant. Fare from Bangor, $4.50.

There is a steamer over the lake every day, passing the
finest scenery to be enjoyed on any Maine Lake. This,
too, is the best point of departure for excursions in birch
canoes. ' '

•i

THE ANDBOSCOGGIN LAKES. . v

Lake Umbagog lies partly in Maine and partly in New-
Hampshire. Its length is about 12 miles, and its breadth
varies from 1 to 5 miles. The outlet of Umbagog and the
Margallaway River forms the Androscoggin.

Androscoggin and Moosetocknoguntic Lakes are in the
vicinity of Umbagog. These lakes may be reached by
stage from Bethel, which is on the Grand Trunk Railway,

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160

LAKES, BITERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

and noted for fishing. Hotel in Upton. J. O. Rich, a
famous '▼uido and trapper, lives at Upton,

SEBAGO.

Sobago Pond, a beautiful lake 12 miles long*, and from
7 to 8 miles broad, is about 20 miles from Portland, on a
route thence to Conway and the White Mountains. It is
connected with Portland by the Cumberland and Oxford
Canal.

THE OBAND LAKES.

The best place for salmon-trout is on the Grand Lakes,
in Washington county. The Rev. Dr. Bethune came here
repeatedly. Go by steamer to Calais and railway to
Princeton, where guides and information may be ob-
tained. Or, go by stage from Bangor— a very tedious
route.

THE MOUNTAINS.

Sugar-Loaf Mountain, upon the Seboois River, north-
east of Mount Katahdin, is nearly 2000 feet high, and
from its summit a magnificent view is commanded, wliich
embraces some 50 mountain peaks and nearly a score of
picturesque lakes. Bigelow, Saddleback, Squaw, Bald,
Gilead, the Speckled Mountain, the Blue Mountain, and
other heights, with intervening waterfalls and brooks, are
in the neighborhqod.

Mount Katahdin, with its peaks 5385 feet above the
sea, is the loftiest summit in the State, and is the ultima
thule, at present, of general travel in this direction. The
ordinary access is in stages from Bangor over the Aroos-
took road, starting in tolerable coaches on a tolerable road,
and changing always in both from bad to worse. A plea-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

167

sant routo for tho adventurer is down the west branch of
tho Penobscot, in a canco, from Moosohead Lake. " Birch-
es," as tho boats are called, and guides, may bo procured
at tho foot of Mooschead, or at tho house, near tho centre
of tho lake. By this approach, Katahdin is seen in much
finer outlines than from tho eastward.

THE VALLEY OF THE HOUSATONIG.

Henry Ward Beechcr says, in his Star Papers : " Of all
the railroads near New- York, none can compare for beauty
of scenery with tho Housatonlc from Newtown up to Pitts-
field, but especially from New-Milford to Lenox."

Let this bo your authority, reader, and go ; but see to
it, first, that you have Mr. Beecher's tastes, and not a Sa-
ratogian's or a sea-bather's. To the question, " What do
you do for amusement ?" in a summering by the Housa-
tonlc, he replies : " We do not receive company, or make
calls, or ride about among a caravan of dandy vehicles, or
* go with the multitude' in a-swimming, or any thing else
that implies excitement or company. We have a select
few here, to whom quiet is enjoyment. We look at the
picture-gallery of God in the heavens, with never two
days' pictures alike ; we sit down with our books on the
brow of the breezy hill, under an old chestnut tree, ard
read — sometimes the book, sometimes the landscape, and
sometimes the highland clouds ; we wait till the evening
sun begins to emit rose-colored light, and then we take
rides along the edges of woods, upon unfrequented roads,
across suspicious bridges, along forest-paths leading no
one knows where, and coming out just at the very spot we
did not expect. . . . But on other days we vary the
entertainment, for there is an inexhaustible variety."

In this spirit, the rest-seeker from the great city will

103

LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

thank Ood for tlio ITousatonic Vnlloy, coming onco nnd
again. Are you ready, now, to go ?

Start, tlien, by the cleanest place of departure from Now-
York, the Twenty-seventh Street depot, by the Ncw-IIaven
lino. Your fare to Bridgeport, where you leave the trunk
lino and change to tho Ilousatonic Railway, is $1.70 — un-
less you choose to take tho Bridgeport steamboat, from
Pier 85, East Rivor, and then it will be $1 only, or even
less. Tlio Ilousatonic road will want 3 cents per milo for
any distance short of its northern terminus, at Pittsfield,
Mass., but will convey you the whole of those 110 miles
for |3 ; and as the Harlem Railway also tickets passengers
to Pittsfield, (by Chatham Four Corners and tho Western
Railway,) the through faro from New- York City is but
$3.90 on either road. The best time to leave the city i'S 8
A.M., connecting at Bridgeport for Pittsfield at 10.30 ; tli3
train reaches Pittsfield at 3.50 p.m. ; the ride is a long,
slow one, but not tedious to any one who enjoys comfort-
able, almost dustless cars, polite conductors, and unceasing
beauty of scenery. There is also an afternoon train, which
leaves New- York at 3 p.m., reaching Pittsfield at 11 p.m.

The Ilousatonic River, whose banks the railway of its
own name follows from New-Milford to Pittsfield, near its
head-waters, rises among the Taconic Mountains, (the
"Berkshire Hills," as the natives fondly call them,) in
North-western Massachusetts. It flows almost due south
as far as the lower border of Litchfield county, Connecti-
cut, bends greatly to the east, and reaches Long Island
g'ound at Stratford, nearly 20 miles east of the point where
a straight course would have terminated. The Naugatuck
Railway follows its shore -line as far as Derby, where navi-
gation ends ; thence the road sets itself a hard task in
chasing the nimble Naugatuck, (see sketch of the Nauga-

LAKES, niVEIiS, AXD MOUNTAINS.

ICO

TUCK Vatj.et.) Tlio ITonsatonic botvvoon Stratford nnd
Derby is ii broad, beautiful Btroam, ratbor maintaining tbo
dipfiu.y of navipablo water, liowtivor, to tho doirimont of
its scon(»ry ; and tho railway, wb(;thor approciatinj? this
fact or Icil away by tbo irresistiblo attractions of Nowtown,
dticlimoH to souk its aci][uamtanco for tho first 30 miles of
Us rails.

Bridgeport, 68 miles from New-York City, is tho south-
ern torminus — our starting-point — of tho Naugatuck and
Housatonic Ilailwa3'S. Any one particularly interested iin
BO wing-machine factories or clam-bakes will stop here and
visit tho former — a multitude— and go boating for tlio
latter ; or if one wishes to see a pretty ridge of city coun-
try-seats, ho will go up the " Golden Hill," back of tho
depot, and see that of which Bridgeport is proud. Other-
wise we will start at once. There is a mediocre restaurant
In the depot, at which it is possible to eat if one must. A
good dinner, however, waits at Kent Station, 48 miles up,
at 12.53 o'clock noon.

This village of Kent, by the way — for we shall hardly
need to delay for the brook-side, loaf-covered ride below,
nor the long-awaited rippling of the river near New-Mil-
ford — is a very queer, quiet place. President Woolsey, of
Yale University, spends his summers here, among the
Scaghticoke Indians, or what few are left of them, on the
banks of the Housatonic. Kent Plains are very pretty,
and so quiet 1 During tho war most of the men went to
the front, and there was a period when, if a horse cast a
shoe, he must go to the next village for help, for there was
no blacksmith in Kent I The river all through the village
is charming ; there are two pretty lakelets, called respec-
tively by the names of Hatch and Swift, both visible from
the railway ; and, best of all, there is, near the Orthodox

170

LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAIXS.

;!!

church, a hill, which rises sheer from the Plains 1000 feet,
and at the summit is Spectacle Pond — a couple of oval
sheets of black water, connected by a strait, just as the
name imports. You will never have a finer view either,
that may with strictness be called a "mountain-view,"
than from the height overlooking this double lake. Look-
ing to the west, you may behold five closely-placed ranges
of mountains, spread out like the fingers of one's hand,
with not space enough between to afford ariy relief from
the lofty scene ; the fifth range are the Catskills, of New-
York, 60 miles distant. Then, descending and crossing
the river — magnificent when swollen — we have varied op-
portunity for delight in very Wales-like scenery of abrupt
mountain-sides, rapid water, and rocky banks.

Mr. Beecher's Star Papers are full of loving reminis-
cences of all this region ; for we are now in the vicinity
(Litchfield, in the county of which is Kent) of his birth ;
and we can not do better than to quote his words, with
such added notes as may make random letters available
for a tourist. The parentheses shall be our own :

"If one has not leisure for detailed explorations, and
can spend but a week, let him begin, say at Sharon or Sa-
lisbury, both in Connecticut and both accessible (Sharon
Station) from the Harlem Railroad, (or from Canaan, 73
miles from Bridgeport, on the Housatonic.) On either
side, to the east and to the west, ever-varying mountain-
forms frame the horizon. There is a constant succession
of hills swelling into mountains, and of mountains flowing
down into hills. The hues of green in trees, in grasses,
and in various harvests, are endlessly contrasted. There
are no forests so beautiful as those made up of both ever-
green and deciduous trees. At Salisbury, you come under
the shadow of the Taconic range. Here you may well

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

171

spend a week, (a good hotel for families will help you to
decide,) for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosi-
ty. Four miles to the east are the Falls of the Housatonic,
called Canaan Falls, (railway station, Canaan, where stage
connects, 15 miles, with Winsted, on the Naugatuck Rail-
way,) very beautiful, and worthy of much longer study
than they usually get. Prospect Hill, not far from Falls
Village, (67 miles up,) affords altogether the most beauti-
ful view of any of the many peaks with which this neigh-
borhood abounds. Many mountain-tops of far greater
celebrity afford less various and beautiful views. Near to
it is the Wolf's Den, a savage cleft in the rocks, through
which you grope as if you had forsaken light and hope
forever. On the west of Salisbury you ascend Mount Riga
to Bald Peak, thence to Brace Mountain, thence to the
Dome, thence to that grand ravine and its wild water,
Bash-Bish — a ride, in all, of about 18 miles, and wholly
along the mountain-bowl. On the eastern side of this
range, and about 4 miles from Norton's House, in Salis-
bury, where you will, of course, put up, is Sage's Ravine,
which is the antithesis of Bash-Bish. Sage's Ravine, not
without grandeur, has its principal attractions in its beau-
ty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet most re-
markable for grandeur. I would willingly make the jour-
ney once a month from New- York to see either of them.
Just beyond Sage's Ravine, very beautiful falls may be
seen after heavy rains, which have been named Norton's
Falls. Besides these and other mountain scenery, there
are the Twin Lakes on the north of Salisbury, and the two
lakes on the south, around which the rides are extremely
beautiful. But they should always be afternoon rides ; for
these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full
charms except at about an hour before sunset. The rides

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172

LAKES, RIVERS, AND M0UI5 TAINS.

in all this neighborhood are very fine, and a week at Sails-
bury, if the weather be fine and your disposition reason-
able, will be apt to tompt you back again and again.

"From Salisbury to Williamstown, and then to Ben-
nington, in Vermont, there stretches a country of valleys,
lakes, and mountains that is yet to be as celebrated as the
lake-district of England and the hill-country of Palestine.
" From Salisbury to Great Barrington, the road lies along
the base of the mountains, and, indeed, is called the under-
mountain road. Great Barrington is one of those places
which one never enters without wishing never to leave.
It rests beneath the branches of great numbers of the state-
liest elms. It is a place to be desired as a summer residence."
West of Great Barrington, 4 miles by stage, (or 6 miles
by stage from Hillsdale, on the Harlem Railway,) is South-
Egremont, in Berkshire county. Here there is a delight-
ful summer hotel, the Mount Everett House, Mr. John
Miller, proprietor, capable of accommodating 50 guests
from June 1st to November 1st, The mountain-scenery,
the quiet village with its excellent roads, the fine trout-
streams, and the luxurious table which the private farm
and garden afford the hotel, render the place a delightful
residence for the warm weather.

" Next to the north (of Great Barrington) is Stockbridge,
famed for its meadow-elms, for the picturesque beauty ad-
jacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along
a level plain just under the rim of hills. If you wish to
be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the
summit of this encircling hill-ridge, in a summer's after-
noon, while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic
winds, in great circuits, all through the valley, carrying
willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The horizon
on every side is piled and terraced with mountains. Ab-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

173

rupt and isolated mountains bolt up here and there over
the whole stretch of plain, covered with evergreens. Upon
the northern ridge lived the worthy Dr. West, known and
honored among New-England theologians. It is but re-
cently that his old house was demolished. And this very
spot we came near purchasing for a summer home."

This spot, which Mr. Beecher so admired and desired,
has become the summer residence of Rev. Henry M. Field,
D.D., of the Eoangelist ; and when the eminent Scotch di-
vine, Dr. James McCosh, was in this country, in 1866, he
spent a week with his friend Robert Carter, the New- York
publisher, in this neighborhood, and several times visited
Dr. Field, and used to stand on the piazza and look off*
upon the landscape with infinite delight, saying that the
view was equal, if not superior, to any in Scotland ; a re-
mark which he explained by adding that Walter Scott al-
ways said, " The most beautiful scenery in Scotland was
between the Highlands and the Lowlands, where the rug-
ged northern peaks melt down into gentler heights, with
soft, winding valleys between" — and such, he observed,
was exactly the character of the scenery here. On the
same hill is the country-seat of David Dudley Field, Esq.,
of New- York, who is the largest landholder in the town,
in which he owns about 1000 acres. Between the dwell-
ings of the two brothers, and on the latter's estate, is an
ancient house of much historical interest, being built by
the General Court of Massachusetts, long before the Revo-
lution, for the missionary Sargent, who came here to preach
the Gospel to the Indians, Stockbridge being the seat of a
powerful tribe. The Indian bury ing-ground is still pointed
out a little west of the Congregational church. In the
village also still stands the house in which, more than a
hundred years ago, Jonathan Edwards wrote his famous

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174

LAKES. RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

book on the Freedom of the Will. At another point in
Stockbridge is the Ice Glen, a romantic fissure in the high
rocks overhanging the road, where parties delight, in snm-
luer, to find a store of ice laid up in Nature's hidden places.

The whole beautiful valley stretches away, charmingly
varied by the meandering Housatonic, almost as far as the
eye can reach, with the white houses dotting the green
fields and meadows here and there, and the brown roads
following feebly the example of the river. A sunset-scene
once enjoyed here may not soon be forgotten.

Around Stockbridge are many charming drives. Every
ascent of a hill, and .almost every turn in the road, opens a
new landscape before the eye. There is an excellent hotel,
(Stockbridge House, Mr. Heaton, proprietor $3 per day,)
which.is usually well filled with refugees from the arid city.

" Going north, (6 miles,) we come to Lenox, known for
the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air and
for the beauty of its mountain scenery. If one spends July
or October in Lenox, he will hardly seek another home for
summer. The church stands upon the highest point in
the village, and if, in summer, one stands in the door and
gazes upon the vast panorama, he might, without half the
Psalmist's devotion, prefer to stand in the door of the Lord's
house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or mansion.'* Here
is the burial-ground in which Mrs. Fanny Kemble Butler
expressed once her desire to rest when her work on earth
shall be over. " I will not rise to trouble any one," said
she, " if they will let me sleep there. I will ask only to
be permitted, once in a while, to raise my head and look
out upon this glorious scene I"

Mr. Beecher's words are sustained by the great throng
of Boston fashionables who affect Lenox, almost to the ex-
clusion of the people of the tov»^n. For three months of

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

Bummer Lenox is a very crowded resort. It shows the in-
flux of city people by a hotel at city prices. So, too, there
are many who delight to spend their resting-season in Lee.
The hotel has been burnt, and is not yet rebuilt. Hotel
terras in Lenox are $4 per day,

Pittsfield is the northern terminus of the Housatonic
Railway, and is one of the most beautiful villages in all
New-England. Populaiioii, about 11,000. The only hotel
at present is the American House, just up the hill from the
railway station ; terms, $3.50 per day, and a reduction for
permanent board. The principal buildings of importance
are : the new Roman Catholic cathedral, the finest in
Western Massachusetts ; Maplewood Seminary, for young
ladies, near by ; the Berkshire Medical College, at the
other end of South street, (the chief avenue ;) and Dr. John
Todd's elegant stone church. The Pittsfield Elm, which
was and is not, was one of the finest and one of the famous
trees of the country. It stood in the park opposite to
which is the Congregational (Dr. Todd's) church. Its re-
markable height, 138 feet, was enhanced by the entire
lack of limbs for the first 90 feet. Under this tree Ethan
Allen mustered many of his " boys" who marched on Ti-
conderoga during the Revolution. When the old relic
had become so decayed as to necessitate its destruction,
July 24th, 1864, it was esteemed a general calamity,
and specimens of the wood are yet exposed for sale at Mr.
Burnell's news-store, as precious tokens of past glory. The
concentric rings showed the Old Elm to be 340 years old.

The drives about Pittsfield are charming in all direc-
tions, nature and art having combined to make the roads
delightfully smooth. Particularly we commend the rides
to Williamstown, 20 miles ; to the Shaker Village, (Leba-
non Springs,) in New- York, about 15 miles; but, above

176

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

all, stop on the latter road at Lanesboro Pond. This ex-
quisite little sheet of water is nearly the head- water of the
Ilousatonic, and the views about it, particularly that of
old Greylock Mountain and its twin peak, Saddle-Back,
(see WiLLiAMSTOWN,) are worth studying for a day at
least. In the village is a pretty little pond, called Silver
Lake, and a mile or two out is the fine trotting-park of the
Berkshire Pleasure Association.

North of Pittsfield runs the Pittsfield and North-Adams
Railway, 20 miles, a very primitive, uninviting freight-
road, but passing through a charming country, especially
affording some fine views of Greylock. At Adams is the fine
new Wilson House, erected and named for Mr. James Wil-
son, of sewing-machine distinction, and affording first-class
accommodations. Terms, about $4 per day. This is an ex
cellent point of departure for the places described in the
sketch of WiLLiAMSTOWN, which place is but 5 miles distant.

Cummington lies in the heart of the hills which form
the southern continuation of the Green Mountain range,
and embraces some of the most picturesque scenery of
Western Massachusetts. The Westfield River, known as
the Agawam where it empties into the Connecticut, oppo-
site Springfield, winds through the town for a distance of
8 miles, forming a deep and narrow valley, from which
the hills recede at a height of 300 or 400 feet, in ridges or
table-lands of wide extent, broken into varied undulations
by small brooks and rivulets. A fair supply of trout is
found in these lesser streams, and the visitor, in riding
over the range on either side the valley, gains many bold,
far-reaching, and inspiriting views. Cummington is chiefly
noted as the birthplace of the poet Bryant, who has bought
the old family home, (see Flora's Glen, in Williams-
town sketch.) On the north is the town of Plaii^field,

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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

177

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which contains the old homestead of Gerard Halleck, and
is known as the place where Dr. Kinjif, the missionary, first
began his studies. On the south is the town of Worthing-
ton, resting on a beautiful table-land, and noted as the
birthplace and final resting-place of Brigadier-General
Price, of the New- York Volunteers.

Cummington is reached by rail via Northampton to
Williamsburg, thence by stage 12 miles ; or by Boston and
Albany Railway to Hinsdale or Pittsfield, and thence from
the former place by stage 11 miles, or from the latter by
carriage 23 miles ; or by rail to North- Adams, and by
stage to Plainfield, 15 miles. A ride over the mountain, a
spur of the Hoosick from North- Adams to Cummington,
24 miles, presents some of the finest views in Massachu-
setts. Old Greylock, the highest point in the State, and
the valleys of the branches of the Hoosick, one stretching
south to the heart of Berkshire and the other running far
among the hills of Vermont, lie before the tourist and en-
able him to take in at a glance the rich beauty of the
famed Berkshire hills. Cummington has two hotels, and
several private houses where board can be obtained at
very moderate prices. Mails daily ; nearest telegraph
station at Hinsdale, 11 miles.

THE SUSQUEHANNA EIVEB.

The Susquehanna is the largest and most beautiful of
the rivers of Pennsylvania, traversing as it does its entire
breadth from north to south, and in its most interesting
and most important regions. It lies about midway be-
tween the centre and the eastern boundary of the State,
and flows in a zigzag course, now south-east and now south-
west, and so on over and over, following very much the
windings of the Delaware, which separates the State from

178

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

New- Jersey. The Pennsylvania Canal accompanies it
throughout its course from Wyoming on the north to the
Chesapeake Bay on the south. All the great railways
intersect or approach its waters at some point or other,
and the richest coal-lands of the State lie contiguous to its
banks. The Susquehanna, in its main branch, rises in
Otsego Lake, in the east central part of New- York, and
pursues a very tortuous but generally south-west course.
This Main, or North, or East Branch, as it is severally
called, when it reaches the central part of Pennsylvania,
after a course of 250 miles, is joined at Northumberland
by the West Branch, 200 miles long, which flows from the
declivities of the AUeghanies. The course of this arm of
the river is nearly eastward, and, like the North Branch,
through a country abounding with coal and other valuable
l^roducts. It is also followed by a canal for more than a
hundred miles up. The route of the Erie Railway is upon
or near the banks of the North Branch of the Susque-
hanna in Southern New- York, and occasionally across the
Pennsylvania line for 50 miles, first touching the river near
the Cascade Bridge, nearly 200 miles froru New- York,
passing the cities of Binghamton and Owego, and finally
losing sight of it just beyond Barton, 250 miles from the
metropolis. The Northern Central Railway of Pennsyl-
vania is along its banks from Williamsport down to
Goldsborough, 106 miles, below -v^rhich it is crossed only,
not followed by, steam civilization. Nearly the whole of the
Lackawanna and Bloomsburg Railway (only excepting
the 9 miles from Scranton to Pittston) lies along the East
Branch between Pittston and Northumberland. Nanti-
coke and Shickshinny are on this route, which may be
reached from New- York City by the Morris and Essex
Railway to Washington, 70 miles, thence to Scranton, 77

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

179

miles further. Tho entire length of the Susquehanna is
about 500 miles, and tho country which it traverses is of
every aspect, from tho quiet vale or cultivated farm to the
wildest horrors of the stern mountain pass. The region
most sought, and deservedly so, by the tourist in quest of
landscape beauties, is that around and below the Valley of
Wyoming. (See article under that title.) From this
point down many miles to Northumberland, where the
West-Branch comes in, the scenery is everywhere striking-
ly fine ; but the best and boldest mountain passes extend
from 5 to 10 miles below the southern outlet of Wyo-
ming, around Nanticoke and Shickshinny. This is tho
region par excellence for the study of the artist. Portions,
also, of the West-Branch, though not yet very much visit-
ed, are remarkably fine.

THE JTJNIATA BIVEB.

What scenery can arrest the hasty, longing gaze of the
railway traveler more certainly than that of the famed
and lovely blue Juniata ? Along its charming banks the
Pennsylvania Central Railway carries its passengers,
often at a terrible altitude, from beyond Huntingdon to
Duncannon, where it joins the Susquehanna — 90 miles*
ride. It rises in the south central part of Pennsylvania,
and, flowing eastward, falls into the Susquehanna at this
point, about 14 miles above Harrisburg. The landscape
of the Junip.ta is in the highest degree picturesque, and
many romantic summer haunts will be found among its
valleys ; though at present very little tarry is made in tho
region, from its attractions being little known, and the
comforts of the traveler being as yet but inadequately
provided for. The mountain background, as we look con-
tinually across the river from the cars, is often strikingly

180 LAKES, lllVKKS, AND MOUNTAINS.

\xM and l)cautifiil. The Little Juniata, wliich, with tho
FrankHtovvn Branch, forms tlie main rivor, is a stream of
wild, romantic beauty. Tho entire length of tho Juniata,
includinji: its hranchcs, Is estimated at nearly 150 miles,
and its (M\tiro course is throuj?h a ref?ion of mountains in
which iron ore is abundant, and of fertile limestone val-
leys. Tho Kaystown Branch, which rises In tho south-
west part of Bedford county, enters tho Juniata near
Huntingdon.

NORTH-CAROLINA.

To a tourist wishing to go into new grounds, tho State
of North-Carolina will afford an interesting field for six or
eight summer weeks. Ho need not bo alarmed on the
score of health. West of Raleigh, there is no more dan-
ger than in any part of the State of New- York in any
season of tho year. •

We shall indicate in a brief, clear way the course ho
may steer, and point out tho things it will be worth while
to see.

By the Annamcssex route, one leaves New- York in the
evening and next day dines in Norfolk ; or he may stop at
Fortress Monroe a few hours, and go to Norfolk in the after-
noon. Next day to Weldon, N. C, and thence to Raleigh.
Through tickets may bo had to Raleigh. Stop a day or
two in this beautiful little City of Oaks. Mr. Blair, at
the Yarborough House, will take care of you. Visit the
Capitol, the Institute of the Blind, and the Insane Asylum.
The streets are delightfully shaded, and there are pleasant
drives in the vicinity.

Twenty-six miles west, you may debark at Durham's
and find a " daily track" which will carry you the samo
night to Chapel Hiil, the seat of the University of North-

LAIvES, KIVKRS, AND MOUNTAINS. 181

Cftrollna, a boaiitifiil villa<r(', intcrcHting on account of its
venerablo inHtitution of loarnlnpf.

You return to the railway, and j?o wiht 71 niilcH to
Tlinrli Point, wlioro a Rta^o moots you to take you to Sa-
loni, an old and V(!ry intorostinj? town, Ixdonj^inj? to tlio
Moravians, and romindinj? you of tlio nic(T kinds of (Jor-
man villanroa. If you liavo novor boon in a Moravian
town, you will do woll to stop a day and call upon tho
biHhop, who will rocoivo you politely, and show and tell
you many instructive things in regard to tho Unitas Fra-
trum.

Go from Salem to tho Pilot Mountain, by hired convey-
ance, distanco about 20 miles. Tho Pilot lifts itself,
solitary and alone, no other mountain near, about 3000
feet about the level of tho sea. Its position and form,
rather than its h(Mght, make it an object of interest. You
have fine views from the top. As you travel all about that
region, tho Pilot seems always in view, and to the nomadic
aborigines of the country it was such a guide as to win
for itself tho name it bears.

The tourist may return to Salem and so back to tho
railway ; but, if conveyance can be had at the Pilot Moun^
tain to Statesville, it will bo better. If you go back to Sar
lem and thence to Lexington, your next place is Salisbury.
There take the Western North-Carolina Railway to Mop-
gantown, passing through Statesville. But, if you have
gone by private conveyance over to Statesville from tho
Pilot, there take ticket to Morgantown.

Sixty miles of staging through a glorious country
bring the tourist to Ashoville. Mark, you are not driving
through on husiness. It is for pleasure and health that you
go. Take it along reasonably, but keep moving, and you
will grow stronger and happier. Asheville is a central

182

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

and interesting place in Western North-Carolina. Persons
g(^ there and make that a sort of headquarters. Horses and
vehicles can be had there to go in any direction. There
are plenty of stopping-places in the several routes above
named to Asheville, and indeed, all through tho mountains
the stranger will meet a simple but cordial hospitality ; he
will often find elegance and refinement.

In Buncomoc he will go to the Sulphur Springs, 5 miles
west of Asheville ,; he will go to Pisgah, N. C, 20 miles
south-west of Asheville ; he will especially go to the
Black Mountain, " grand, gloomy, and peculiar," in the
summit of the highest point of which rest the remains of
the 1p e Dr. Mitchell, the martyr to science. There are
many interesting peaks in the neighborhood of the Blacik
Mountain.

There is an indefinite number of beautiful streams in
Buncombe county; there is the rugged course of the
French Broad, with a scenery mocking that of the Rhine ;
the beautiful Swannanoa River, and many lesser mountain
streams that afford fine trout-fishing.

In McDowell, the stranger will go to the Sinville Falls,
and to a nameless cave in the Blue Ridge, not yet fully
explored.

In Burke, he will go to the Table Rock. In Burke and
McDowell, there are beautiful mountain streams. The sce-
nery along several of them, especially along the Sinville
River, is grand.

In Rutherford county, he will go to Chimney Rock and
thg Falls there. The Broad River (a branch) is a beauti-
ful and interesting stream.

In Polk, he will go to see the Tryon Mountain ; from the
south face of this there is one of the handsomest land-
scape views to be found anywhere ; to the east and south
it is boundless.

LAKES, RIVErwS,

AND MOUNTAINS.

183

In Henderson county, the country is beautifully undu-
lating, and portions of it, near the summit of the Blue
Ridge, are elegantly improved by gentlemen of wealth,
who have summer places there. The celebrated Bute
Mountain Gap is in this county. At many points in this
county we can not tell where we cross the Blue Ridge.

The county of Transylvania is the most beautiful county
in the State. There are many interesting points in this
county : Table Rock, Caesar's Head, Falls of the French
Broad, Falls of the Davidson River, beautiful and clear
streams, sometimes moving on slowly, at others rushing
furiously. There are some very beautiful farms, pome in
a high state of cultivation, in this county.

In Jackson county, he will go to see the Whiteside
Mountain, a great and grand curiosity.

Macon, Clay, and Cherokee are noted for tho grandeur of
th.oir mountains and the beauty o^ their streams ; they are
highly adapted to grazing purposes, and in many places
it is beyond question that the grape culture would succeed.
Whoever goes to Macon, should see Silas McDowell, Esq.,
an old, intelligent, and most interesting man. He knows
much of the mountains ^nd is in many ways interesting.

Strangers can always find means of transportation in
the mountains, and living there is cheap. Appetites cost
nothing and health is indigenous.

One c-^-n go from New- York to Greenville, Tenn., or
Greenville, S. C, by rail. Asheville is sixty miles from
each of these places, same distance as Morgantown, N. C.
If the business or pleasuie of the tourist should lead him
by either route, he will have a good time.

All we are able to do for North-Carolina in this edition
is to indicate general routes. The tourist will avail him-
self, of course, of information to be derived from intelli-

Kp™>

184

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

gent people along his line of travel. In our next edition
we hope to bo more specific, but for this summer what we
give is sufficient. We beg to urge a North-Carolina trip
as new and fresh. He that hath " done" only the Adiron-
dacks, and hath not explored Western North-Carolina, is
hardly half a mountain man.

-•♦♦-

CAVES.

The State of Kentucky, in the United States of America,
boasts the largest known cave in the world. Nearly all
the great caves are in limestone rocks, of comparatively
recent date. They are produced by the action of the water,
which, running in little streams through the strata, and
carrying with it carbonic acid gas, (by which limestone
is rendered soluble,) particles of the rock are taken up
and removed. Thus the rock is hollowed out more rapidly
than others of ia softer nature are excavated by any mechan-
ical action ; and the work goes silently and steadily on
through long geological periods, until subterranean pas-
sages of wonderful beauty and extent are formed.

Comparatively few of the caves in this country have
attracted great attention from tourists. Even the T.i in-
moth Cave of Kentucky — the greatest natural woii ier,
after Niagara Falls, commonly known in America until
the recent " across the Continent" travel — ^lias been seen
by but very few people, and can hardly claim a place here
on any score but that of its neglected magnificence. Weir's
Cave, in Augusta county, 17 miles north-east of Staunton,
Va. ; Big Saltpetre Cave, in Marion county. Mo. ; and
Howe's, Ball's and other caves in Schoharie county, N. Y.,
have never attained much more than a local distinction.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

185

(The last named of these* alone, from their contiguity to
the city whence our routes mainly start, are described
below.)

THE MAMMOTH CAVE.

Tourists from New- York City, going to the Mammoth
Cave, have an abundant if not bewildering choice of
routes. By the Erie and the Atlantic and Great Western
Railways, one has the famous broad-gauge cars, the fine
scenery of the Upper Susquehanna and the Delaware, and
a glimpse at the Oil Region. By the Pennsylvania Cen-
tral, and by way of Zanesville to Cincinnati, the startling
railway ride over the mountains, and the way through the
beautiful rolling country of Ohio, afford delightful con-
trasts. By the Camden and Amboy monopoly, and the
Baltimore and Ohio, one may see the flattest and the bold-
est railway riding this side the Rocky Mountain passes.
And so you may take your choice of routes to Cincinnati.
Regular fare, $22.40 ; probably lower during the summer.
From Cincinnati to Louisville, the best way to go is by
steamboat, leaving at 5 or 6 p.m., and reaching Louisville
in the early morning. Or, if one chooses to see this part of
the Ohio River by day, he may leave Cincinnati at noon,
and reach Louisville in about 12 hours; so that, after a
half night's rest, he can start with those who came by the-
night boat, for Nashville. Fare, $3.50, includes meals and
state-rooms. The tourist leaves Louisville for Cave City,
the station for the Cave, on the Louisville and Nashville
Railway, about 7 o'clock, and reaches the " city" by noon.
Here begins the series of absurdities, impositions, and
annoyances, which Southern hotel-keepers and their fel-
lows deem necessary to the securing of their fortunes. The
stage for the Cave does not leave Cave City until 2 p.m. ;
meanwhile, dine at the Cave City Hotel ; $4 per day. The

186

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

I;
II \

stage-journey is 8 miles, fare $2; but as tlie proprietor
seems to have a doubt of your safe return, he insists upon
payment of $4, which entitles you to a return. The ride
over to the Cave is through a very picturesque country ;
and you may as well enjoy it, for you can not see the great
phenomenon until morning. Whether the proj^rietor of
the Mammoth Cave Hotel thinks people never visit the
l^lace twice, we know not ; but all his plans seem arranged
on that basis. There are no guides to be had until morn-
ing ; and of course no one will forget the many examples
of people lost in the labyrinths of the Cave, to venture in
alone. So you will stay at the Mammoth Cave Hotel, $4.50
per day, rooms for 300 or 400 guests, a plain wooden ca-
ravansary, until morning.

The charge for a guide is $1 or $3, according to his ser-
vices. Garments, suitable to be worn in the long tramp,
are furnished gratis by the guide. There are two routes
taken in the Cave, called respectively the Long and the
Short Route. The former, for which the guide's services
cost $3, extends 9 miles and return, and occupies nearly
or quite all of one day. It is, of course, performed on foot,
the "sailing" on the Lethe River and Echo River being
quite inconsiderable; and a person not accustomed to a
good deal of fatigue will find it a laborious enjoyment.
Every one knows, or should know, the general nature of
the route through mines and caves, (see Down in the
Mines sketch,) and we shall not need here to undertake a
detailed account of the Mammoth Cave wonders. The
Short Route (charge fc7 guide, $1) diverges from the other
at the distance of less than a mile within the entrance,
and is more picturesque ; its extent is 3 miles, and return,
as many more. There are thus in all 24 miles of usual
travel ; but there are probably 150 miles of journeying

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LAKES, RIYEES, AND MOUNTAINS.

187

possible witliin tlio Cave, much of it quite unexplored.
Of course, in this are counted all the different roads and
passages, etc., in all directions. But you can not make
both journeys in one day, were you ever so well disposed ;
the landlord has determined, in case you wish to make
both, to enjoy another night's draught on your purse. When
you return from one route to the entrance, you find that
the guides for the other have gone for the day ; to-morrow
they will be at your service.

These and other trifles are the annoyances of which the
tourist wishes to learn beforehand ; the agreeable things
alone are welcome as surprises. Of the latter he will not
exhaust the supply in Mammoth Cave in less than two
days ; but either route alone is sufficient to give one some
adequate idea of the great natural curiosity of Kentucky.

THE CAVES OF SCHOHARIE COUNTY.

After the great caves of Kentucky and Virginia — and
the recent " Big Saltpetre" of Marion county, Missouri —
the coun y of Schoharie, New- York State, affords some of
the most interesting subterranean resorts in the world.
They may be conveniently reached from New- York City
by way of Albany and the Albany and Susquehanna Rail-
way. Stations, Schoharie, 36 miles, and Howe's Cave, 39
miles from Albany ; regular all-rail fare from New- York,
$4.30. Trains leave Albany at 7.30 A.M., and 2 and 5 P.M.,
reaching Howe's Cave at 9.40 a.m., and 3.58 and 8.37 p.m.
Howe's Cave, which is much the most interesting one, is
visible (a short walk only) from the station. Ball's Cave,
nearly as large and important, is situated some 2 miles
(conveyance, private carriages) from the station of Scho-
harie. At the latter place there are several hotels, the
chief the Mansion and the Franklin ; terms, about $3.50

188

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

per day. At the Cave Station there is a more pretentious
house, a little higher in its prices. Guides, oil-skins, etc.,
may bo obtained at these houses.

The limestone region in the northern part of this county
of Schoharie (not very far from Sharon Springs) contains a
number of caves, very interesting in their size, passages,
and minerals. The largest is Howe's Cave, named for its
discoverer and owner, Lester Howe, in May, 1842. Author-
ities give its extent variously at from 3 to 20 miles, but
it probably has an actual length of between 3 and 4 miles.
The entrance is about 50 feet below the Cobles Kill. Several
spacious chambers detain the wondering visitor ; particu-
larly the Chapel, called so from the usual cause, a rude
resemblance to an assembly-room. Next, one comes upon
a low i^assage-way, not high enough to enable one to pass
except on all-fours ; and after this is a miniature subter-
ranean lake, 30 feet long, 20 wide, and 10 deep, with clear,
limpid waters. By listening intently at certain points in
the journey, the singular sound of a hidden river, hurry-
ing on its course, and even of an invisible waterfall, may
be heard in the distance. The cavern follows the course
of a brook much of its remaining distance, and continues
full of its wonderful surprises and beauties. Whoever
may have the patience — for it hardly requires courage —
to follow it to the end, will be richly repaid.

Ball's Cave, 2 miles from Schoharie Station, for which
distance carriages may be had at the hotels, is almost
equally attractive to the student of the hidden or the
mysterious. A subterranean stream may be explored for
a considerable distance here, with a boat kept in the cave
for the use of visitors. There are several cascades in its
course.

In the vicinity there are many curiosities and attrac-

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

189

tions, both natural and aboriginal. Utsayantha Lake, a
small sheet of water in Jefferson township, affords a sunlit
contrast to the Lethean waters of the caverns. There are
numerous other caves to visit, if two do not satisfy the
tourist.

Not very far from Howe's Cave, in the eastern part of
the county, upon Schoharie Cre^k, there was once another
very interesting curiosity, now quite destroyed. Near the
village of Sloansville, by the side of a path leading to
Fort Hunter, was a stone heap thrown up by the Indians,
who from some superstitious reason prevalent among them,
never failed to add a stone to the pile when they might
pass it. A writer in 1753, (the Rev. Gideon Hawley,) re-
marks that this heap had been accumulating for ages, and
that his native guide could or would give no other reason
for the observance than that his father practiced the rite,
and enjoined it upon him. He did not like to talk about
it. The writer believed the custom to h-^ ve reference to
an offering "to the Unknown God." The heap gave
name to the Stone Heap Patent, granted September 15th,
1770. The heap was 4 rods long, 1 or 2 wide, and 10
to 15 feet high ; it consisted of small, flat stones. There
have been similar stone heaps noticed elsewhere in the
State. No trace of this monument now remains, in the
original form, the unpoetic land-owner having used the
stones, without ceremony, for a fence.

190

LA.KES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

THE LAKES OF NEW-YOKK.

The great lake of North-eastern New- York, called by
the Indians Saranac, but among us always known by
the name of the French discoverer, lies directly upon the
most fashionable route of summer travel. Tourists visit-
ing the Hudson and Lake Horicon, or the Saint Lawrence
country, find Lake Champlain directly on their way. It is
most directly available from New- York or Boston by rail
to Troy, and thence by Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway
to Whitehall, at the head of the Lake. Here the fine
steamboats of the Lake Champlain Company start upon
their journey. Their names are: the Adirondac, (new and
finest,) Canada, United States, and Montreal. They leave
Whitehall at 11 A.M. and 8.30 P.M., arriving, one at Rouse's
Point at 8.45 p.m., and the other at Plattsburg at 5.30 p.m.
Going south, (up the lake,) one leaves Plattsburg at 8 A.M.,
reaching Whitehall at 5 p.m. ; the other leaves Rouse's
Point at 6 p.m., (leaving Montreal — ^the great train of the
day, by Grand Trunk and Vermont Central roads — at 4
P.M.,) and arrives at Whitehall at 6 A.M. The connections
between the boats and the railways in Vermont are not as
direct or certain as they should be. A good deal of the
lake can also be seen by passengers on the Rutland and
Burlington Railway ; but the road between Rutland and
Troy is, chiefly, not near the lake. There is no railway
on the western (New- York) side, though one is now pro-
jected.

LAKEfc^l

RIVEUS, AND MOU:STAINS.

191

Samuel Champlain discovered and named this lake on
his third voyage from France, on July 4tli, 1G09, having
been declared General Lieutenant of Canada by King
Henry IV. War having broken out between the Iroquois
Indians on one side, and the Ilurons, Algonquins, and other
tribes on the other, Cliamplain had attached himself to tlio
latter party from prudential motives in regard to his col-
ony, and went with the Hurons on an unsuccessful expedi-
tion against their foes. It was on this journey that he first
beheld the lake. His unprovoked hostility to the Iroquois
laid the foundation for their long wars with the French,
and their alliance, afterward, with the English. lie died
in 1633.

Lake Champlain is 126 miles long, and varies in breadth
from 40 rods to 15 miles ; depth, 54 to 282 feet ; navigable
throughout its whole length for vessels of 100 tons. Its
outlet, the Sorel River, carries its waters to the River Saint
Lawrence. (See article on that tour.) On the south, com-
munication is had by small boats with the Hudson River,
through the Cliamplain Canal. Navigation closes on
Champlain by the end of December, and usually opens by
the first of April ; but the last winter season was unusually
severe. The waters of the lake abound with bass, pick-
erel, salmon, trout, and other varieties of fish. The scenery
of the region is not to be surpassed. The Vermont shores
are, for the most part, fertile and highly cultivated, delight-
ing the eye ; while on the New- York side a grand contrast
is afforded in the wild, rocky, and barren country which,
at a short distance inland, develops into the mountainous
and lake region of the Adirondacks. That famous range
begins at Cape Trembleau, near Port Kent, 1500 feet high,
and extends south-westerly to Little Falls, on the ^lohawk
River.

192

LAKES, lUVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

\ '

Starting fn^m Wliitolmll at 11 A.M., wo travel for 40
miles iii)on that narrow portion of tho lake which seems
rather to belonpf to a great river. Tho first boat-landing
is at BenHon'n, l.'J miles down tho lake — a small village on
tho (right-hand) Vermont shore ; tho next at Oswell, 20
miles on tlu; same side ; and then wo come to Fort Tic^"*-
deroga, 21 miles from Whitehall. Hero is a good hotel, «.»a
some distance back from the lake, commanding a very
pleasing view of it, stands tho old fort itself. This land-
ing is the point of dt;parturo for Lake Iloricon. (See arti-
cle on Lake George.) Tho place is notable for its water-
power, (think of using tho lovely waters of Iloricon to turn
a saw-mill!) its graphite works, and its lumber business.
Particularly, however, visitorp care for tho old fort, now
quite a ruin, with its supposed underground passages,
magazine, etc. The French built tho fort in 1755, and called
it Carillon, (" chime of bells,") in allusion to the water-
falls on the Iloricon outlet, near it. It was soon afterward
called by its present Indian name. Sir William Johnson,
of tho British army, would have undertaken its reduction,
in the same year, (1755,) in the interest of that long ques-
tion of supremacy of the lake between the French and
English ; but learning that the former had reeaforced it
strongly, ho was content to fortify Will? m Henry, at
Caldwell. Montcalm reduced that fort, ho >r, on the 3d
of August, 1757. General Amherst laid siege to Ticonde-
roga in 1759 with 12,000 men, and the French were obliged
to abandon it, July 30tli. Crown Point was also abandoned
soon after. The English Government then enlarged and
strengthened the two fortresses at a cost of $10,000,000,
making them the best in the country. After the cession of
Canada, in 1763, the fort was allowed to fall into partial
decay, and had but a small garrison ; and Ethan Allen

LAKli:S, IIIVEUS, AND MOUKTAIXS.

193

BurpriHcd aiul captured it, May lOtli, 1775 — ono of tho firHt
fruits of tho uprising? of the colonii'a. Ihirpfoyno C()iiip<^llcd
its evacuation a;x«^iii July 4th, 1777, and licpt it ^ill liis «ur-
rondcr. It was last occupiod as a point of iiiiportanco by
General llaldeman, with a company of British soldiers, in
1780.

Two miles further is Shoreham, an iinimpor'tant landing
(to us) on iho east shore. Crown Point comes next, i]5
miles down. The French erected tho Fort Frederick hero
in 1731, wiiilo the French settlements ahmj? the lake were
Bpringing" up. Its history is closely allied with that of
Ticondero^a, and its present appearance is not more prom-
ising. Sir William Johnson intended to have moved
upon Crown Point, as well as Ticonderoga, when ho was
obliged to retire to William Henry. The whole region
camo into tho hands of tho English in 1759 ; and Allen
took both these fortresses, as has been already stated.

Port Henry is an interesting landing and town, 44 miles
from Whitehall, in tho midst'of some of tho most pleasing,
quiet scenery on the lake.

Westport, and Essex, 55 and C5 jnilcs, arc at tho base of
tho mountainous region which has been already alluded
to. And at Port Kent, the next landing on tho New- York
side, 90 miles do^^ n, tourists who are wise enough not to
lose tho scenery of tho Au Sablo Chasm, leave the boat
and take stage over the plank-road to Keeseville. Tho
Adirondack region is entered from four of these landing-
places on the lake : Crown Point, Westport, Essex, and
Port Kent. For descriptions of tho routes to tho Adiron-
dack Forest, and of tho grand Walled Banks of tho Au
Sable, see article entitled The Adirondacks. While tho
boat stops at Port Kent, however, the traveler ■who
remains on board will have time to observe the fine old

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194

LAKES, TwIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

■^

Stone mansion of Colonel Elkanah Watson, upon the hill
just back of the lake. Colonel Watson originated the
first agricultural society in the State of New- York, and
his record of a journey which he made at the age of 19, in
the year 1777, is the best account which we possess of the
principal towns and villages of the colonies in the Revo-
lutionary period. He died in 1843, and his children still
occupy the old place.

Opposite Port Kent, or nearly so, (the lake is here 10
miles wide, and clear of islands,) lies the late town, now
city, of Burlington, in Vermont. There are but two cities
in the State of Vermont — ^Vergennes, population 128 ^, (last
census,) and Burlington, 7713, incorporated within 5 years.
There is not a great deal to see in Burlington, its charm
to the tourist being rather in its views of the lake and the
mountains and forests beyond. In this respect, we venture
to declare it the finest lake-view in the counLry. Standing
in the cupola of the University, on the summit of the hill
behind the city, we behold, upon the north, Plattsburg, the
great islands of the lake and their circumjacent waters,
and the landscapes of Vermont and the Canadian Domin-
ion. On the eastward view. Mount Mansfield and the
chain of the Green Mountains, running down to Mount
Lebanon and Camel's Hump toward the southward, shut
out the great Connecticut Valley, and leave a very attrac-
tive view instead. The little creek and village of Winooski
lies at the foot of Burlington liill, toward the north-east ;
and beyond it the Vermont country stretches away in a
remarkable similaritj^ to Western prairie-land. To the
south-west lies a great expanse of lake, as far as Fort
Ticonderoga. But the western view is the one which will
first catch our eye, and to vv^hich we shall oftenest return.
Ten miles' width of the lake makes a capital foreground

LAKES, PwIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

195

for the famous wilderness of Nortliern New-York, above
whose unbroken forests rise the towering peaks of Mcln-
tyre, White Face, and Tahawus, (Marcy,) to an altitude,
at the greatest, of GOOO feet. We have counted more than
60 peaks within the scope of our vision in tliis most mag-
nificent and inspiriting \iew.

If the tourist has a little time to spend about Burling-
ton, he Avill visit the tomb of Ethan Allen, in the cemetery
just above the village of Winooski, on Burlington Hill —
a very fine shaft of native granite, which will, some time
or other, be surmounted with a statue. Allen died here
February 13th, 1789. The University of Vermont, founded
1791, will receive some attention as the tourist seeks its
cupola ; particularly he will notice the corner-stone of one
of the more recent dormitory buildings, laid by General
La Fayette during his visit to America in 1825. The ele-
gant and picturesque residence of the late Bishop Hopkins,
and his seminary, at Rocky Point, 2 or 3 miles down the
shore of the lake, will well repay a visit. Visitors are
made quite welcome to inspect the establishment.

Hotels. — The American House, fronting the square in
the centre of the city, half-way up to the University, and
the Lake House, close to the depots, are the principal pub-
lic houses. Terms, $3.50 per day. The visitor coming by
boat should not fail to see the depot of the Vermont Cen-
tral and the Rutland and Burlington Railways, close by
the fine steamboat wharf; it is one of the most ornate in
the country. From Burlington, tourists start for the White
Mountains, Mount Mansfield, and Montreal by rail. For
the first, see article entitled The White Mountains;
the route to the second is given on page 56.

Plattsburg, 105 miles from Whitehall, 09 from Rouse's
Point, is the next station on our journey. This is a village,

196

LAKES, ElVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

II!

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III

with some 8000 inliabitants, of Clinton county, New- York,
standing upon Cumberland Bay, at the mouth, and on
both sides of the Saranac River. Hotel, Fouquet's ; terms,
$3 per day. The spot is not interesting for any thing
present, but has high historical distinction. Cumberland
Bay was the scene of the victory of McDonough and Ma-
comb over the British naval and land forces, under Commo-
dore Downie and Sir George Provost, and familiarly known
as the Battle of Lake Champlain. Here the American
commodore awaited the arrival of the British fleet, which
passed Cumberland Head about 8 o'clock in the morning
of September 11th, 1814. The first gun from the fleet was
the signal for commencing the attack on land. Sir George
Provost, with about 14,000 men, furiously assaulted the
defenses of the town, whilst the battle raged between the
fleets, in full view of the armies. General Macomb, with
about 3000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled the repeated
assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the British
fleet, after an action of about two hours, obliged the lat-
ter to retire, with the loss of 2500 men and a large portion
of his baggage and amunition.

Twenty-five miles farther we reach Rouse's Point, on
the west or New- York side of the lake. This is our last
landing before we enter Canada. Montreal is now 44
miles distant, and may be reached direct only by rail, (Mon-
treal and Champlain ;) time, a little less than 2 hours ;
fare, $2. The River Sorel (see article River Saint Law-
BENCE, near the end) is the outlet of Lake Champlain, car-
rying its waters to the Saint Lawrence in a course of 80
miles, emptying at the head of Lake Saint Peter on that
river. Its breadth and rapidity are greatest at this (south-
ern) end. Near the centre of its course it expands into the
basin of Chambly. It is called by not less than four

is :

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

197

■ll!!^

names. The Northern Railway runs from Rouse's Point
to Ogdensburg, 118 miles, $4 ; passengers for the Thousand
Islands, above Ogdensburg, or the Rapids below, in the
River Saint Lawrence, take this route.

LAKE (HOBICON) GEORGE.

The very best way to arrive at Lake George (assuming
that you are in its neighborhood) is by the stage from Fort
Ti, and the afternoon boat to Fort William Henry : the
very best way to leave Lake George is to take the 4 a.m.
special stage from William Henry Hotel to Moreau Sta-
tion. By the first, you assure yourself of a sunset on the
lake, with all the glorious, deepening shadows of the after-
noon introducing it ; and by the latter, you see the dawn
breaking over the hills and piercing into the depths of the
water between them, as — ^believe us — you never can see it
on the piazza of the great lodging-house, or, probably,
anywhere else.

Americans should call this lake by its native name of
Horicon, (" the silvery waters,") although that is not the
only title which the Indians gave it. It was discovered by
the French in 1609, and by them called Saint Sacrement ;
and they regularly transported its pure waters to Canada,
as New-Yorkers now import the waters of the Jordan, for
baptismal purposes. The English afterward honored
King George I. by re-naming the beautiful lake for him.
We shall not be expected to remind the reader that Revo-
lutionary stories fill all the waters, hang over all the cliffs,
and rustle in all the trees throughout this whole region.

The tourist may approach Lake Horicon either from
north or south, but only by stage. The least staging is by
Fort Ticonderoga (generally called " Fort Ti " hereabout)
route. Fort Ti is 34 miles (by boat only) north from

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198

LAKES, KITE RS, AND MOUNTAINS,

Wliitehall, which is the southern terminus of tlie Lake
Champlain steamboat line, and a station on the Rensselaer
and Saratoga Railway, 73 miles north-east from Albany, 20
miles south-west of Rutland. A line of stages, 4 miles, 75
cents I connects Fort Ticonderoga with the nameless foot of
Horicon, where the steamboat Minne-ha-ha stands waiting
to convey its noisy, happy, numerous load to Caldwell or
elsewhere. Fare to Caldwell, $3, with privilege of return
same day free. The approach by the southern or upper
end of the lake (most New- York waters flow northward,
V. p. 30 in article on Erie Railway,) is as follows : leaving
the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway at Moreau Station,
48 miles from Albany, 47 from Rutland, stages run (through
Glenn's Falls, on the Hudson) to Caldwell direct, 13 miles,
fare $1.50 — a beautiful though fatiguing ride, in excellent
coaches.

Let us suppose ourselves arrived from Lake Champlain,
after a 4 mile " outside " stage-ride over a romantic road,
following the wild course of the passage, full of bold rap-
ids and striking cascades, by which Horicon reaches the
waters of Lake Champlain. (Ladies, as well as gentlemen,
customarily avail themselves here of the ample and excel-
lent seats upon the tops of the stages, and we counsel our
fair readers to suflfer no timidity to withhold them from
the enjoyment of this beautiful ride, which can only be
secured in this way.) Our baggage and ourselves trans-
ferred to the Minne-ha-ha, we are ready to listen to the
welcome information which an employe of the boat com-
pany kindly proclaims. Prisoner's Island, 2 miles up,
where the English confined their captives during the wars
of long ago, and Howe's Landing, on the west from the
island, are the first points of interest. Lord Howe fell in
the English attack upon Ticonderoga in 1758, and this

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

199

landing is named for him. Bogers's Slide on tlio right,
and Anthony's Nose on the left, are two promontories some
2 miles further up the lake, which form a sort of gateway
to a grand and beautiful bay. The Slide (400 feet high)
is named for Major Rogers, (1758,) who tricked some red-
skins into the belief that he slid down its face prior to his
escape to Fort George. By looking at the precipice, the
tourist will see that he didn't. Anthony's Nose, opposite,
is less interesting — but the pass will remind one of that
other Nose of Anthony, on the Hudson River, where the
Dunderberg answers to the Slide.

The lake now broadens suddenly, as we leave Rogers's
Slide and Anthony's Nose, and gains from the people here
the misnomer of "bay," as far as Sabbath-day Point, 7
miles distant. The greatest width is about 4 miles ; and
the little village of Hague, on the western (right-hand)
side, 3 miles south from the Slide, monopolizes this broad
extent. The well known Garfield's Hotel here was formerly
a chosen resort of fishermen and artists : it was burned
4 or 5 years ago, but was rebuilt last summer, and was
opened at moderate prices — $2.50 or $3 per day. Hague
is the point of departure for Lake Pharaoh, a favorite trout-
pond, 12 miles to the north-west, surrounded by wild and
picturesque scenery.

At Sabbath-day Point, on the west shore, the sterility
which hardly the western shore escapes, and which cha-
racterizes the whole eastern side of the lake throughout its
length, breaks a little, and for a brief space our eyes feast
upon fertile, level land. The Point is a narrow bit of
meadow-land, which projects far into the lake ; along its
edge we may glance down to the pebbles beneath the pure
water, and lose ourselves in the sweetness and beauty of
our surroundings. Good reader, take our advice here, and

200

LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

leave military stories to your neighbor ; stand aside, and
think of this spot without its traditions or its history, suf-
fering Nature alone to work the charm of her silence upon
you. Think here, if you will, of the baptismal waters
beneath whose depths you may look, seven fathoms down,
upon the yellow sand ; of the chief islands, which may
mark Sabbaths in the calendar that Horicon keeps by her
islands ; and forget, beyond these, all but the Point, the
Sabbath it honors, and the Lord of both.

After passing Sabbath-day Point, we begin to come upon
the islands of Horicon in multitudes ; and here, as we wan-
der about among them, the cicerone will say that " these
islands are said to greatly resemble the celebrated Thou-
sand Isles of the Saint Lawrence." The parallel may fairly
be extended further. Excepting only the rapids and the poi-
sonous water, (see sketch of Saint Lawkence,) this littlo
Caniderioit (" the tail of the lake," as the Indians some-
times called it, from its relation to Champlain) affords a
complete epitome — a pocket edition, bound in blue and gold
— of the whole great tour of the Saint Lawrence. Every
thing is miniatured, but the copy is faithful : the " thou-
sand isles " — here they correspond (in theory) in number
to the days of the year — with their singular channels,
their abounding fish, their rustic summer-houses, and the
unutterable beauty of their pebble-fringed e Iges ; the
mountainous country round about, now lofty and abrupt
enough to recall the Saguenay walls, and now receding
like the pretty village-dotted banks from Quebec to Tadous-
sac ; the long, river-like views ; the oft-broadening stream,
like the Lakes Saint Louis and Saint Peter, on the Saint
Lawrence, extending suddenly and again closing the
inroads of the water upon the banks, and the gay crowds
(here in miniature again — ^most often children have the

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LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

201

majority at tlio little docks.) But the comparison may
hardly bo continued when we look down into the lake.
The waters of Horicon are pellucid, exposing the sandy
bed to view to the depth of 40 feet ; but the liquid emerald
which, flowing over Niagara, was called by the natives
Ontario — "beautiful" — comes down very little changed in
hue to fill the channels of the Saint Lawrence. The com-
parisons ambitiously drawn, also, between Horicon and
the European Lomond and Geneva, are not Avholly unjust.

The islands of Horicon are said to equal in number the
days of the year, as the round number, 1000, is applied to
the Isles of the Saint Lawrence. The number is exagge-
rated hero, as it is underrated there ; but the notion is a
pleasing one, and surely quite harmless! The lake is
indebted to them for its beauty, as to its mountain sides
for its magnificence. Their variety is charming, both as
to form and aspect. Some are of considerable extent, level
and cultivated ; others rise in rugged cliffs from the water,
their summits crowned with tufts of vegetation, and their
crevices filled with clinging shrubs and stunted trees ;
some are bare rocks, on which the water-fowl make their
nests ; and many are mere points, rising but a few feet
above the water ; but all are beautiful and interesting to
those who have the good fortune to traverse their laby-
rinths. In the absence of an engraving to suggest to our
readers these peculiar attractions of Horicon, we may avail
ourselves of a brief pen-picture by the eminent artist, T.
Addison Richards, N. A. :

" With every changing hour," he writes, " dawn, sun-
set, and night — with the varying weather — from the calm
of drowsy morning to the eve of gathering storm — these
islands are found in ever-changing phases. As they sleep
for a moment in the deep quiet of a passing cloud-shadow,

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202

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS.

you sigh for rest in their cooling bowers. Anon tlio sun
hrealvs over tlicm, and you arc still as eager to mingle in
their now wild and lawless revelry. You may shako up
the lake liko a kaleidoscope, seeing with every varying
change a new i)icturo, by shnply varying your relative
position to these islands. Now you have a fore-ground of
pebbly beach, or, perchance, of jagged rock or of forest
debris, with the spreading water and the distance-tinted
hills, to fill up the canvas ; or, peeping beneath the pen-
dent boughs of the beech and maple, an Arcadian bower
discloses vistas of radiant beauty."

The islands surround us liko ncreids until, yes, after, wo
are fairly in the Narrows. At this point tho hills extend
into tho lake and contract it very considerably, while tho
height of tho mountains renders tho contraction more im-
pressive and apparent, giving to our view the boldest and
most pictures(xue parts of the shores of Lake George. Tho
water hero is 400 feet deep, and wonderfully pellucid, per-
mitting tho eye to penetrate far into its depths. The Black
(2300<eet) and Buck Mountains stand on the eastern shoro,
the latter toward tho south. At tho base of Black Moun-
tain are some ten or a dozen turtle-shaped islands, which
lie as if threateningly guarding the approach : for theso
some patriotic nomenclator has, within a year or two,
thought up the name of "Gunboats" as appropriate.
Tongue (sometimes also called Black) Mountain, on tho
western side, is so named from its projecting down into
the lake like a tonguo.

Just above the Narrows, on the eastern side, lies Four-
teen-mile Island, so named (correctly) from its distance
from Caldwell. Derrom's Hotel, on this island, is by soma
considered the best eating-place on the lake — terms, $2 per
day, $10 to $12 per week.

LAKES, RIVEIIS, AND MOUNTAINS.

203

Bolton, at tho Houtli-woRtorn tmd of tho NorthvvoBt Bay,
h a smull villanro, with a liotol (terms low) which can
accomiuodato 70 or 80 giieMts, (a favorito i)laco for fami-
lies,) and 18 usually crowded, like most of the i)iibllc
houses on IToricon.

Trout PaviUon, on tho oast, 4 milcp diap^onal from Bol-
ton, is a hotel (no village) kept by J. Cronkhill, at tho very
best fisliing grounds on tho lake. Terms, same as at Der-
roni's.

Between Bolton and Caldwell there are one or two fish-
ermen's houses, where parties out late sometimes stay over
night ; hut of regular accommodation, there is an entire
lack.

In tho middle of tho lake, 12 miles from Caldwell, lies
Doom or Twelve-milo Island, where Secretary Seward's
Saint Thomas earthquake was falsely reported to have spent
a day or two on its northern tour last summer. The story
was " manufactured out of whole cloth ;" no volcanic dis-
turhunce has been known upon it.

Caldwell is a place of no interest to the tourist, save for
its ruined Revolutionary forts. Fort William Henry stood
upon the ground now occupied by tho hotel bearing ita
name. An inhuman riassacre of 1500 men of Colonel Mon-
roe's (English) garrison, by Indians allied with the French
army, occurred here August 9th, 1757. About a mile sout'h-
east from the site of Fort William Henry are the ruins of
Fort George, which we shall pass on the road to Glenn's
Falls.

There are two first-class hotels at Caldwell, where I^ake
Horicon ends. The Fort William Henry Hotel, Daniel
Giile, proprietor, we can commend as excellent in table
and rooms. A band of music is employed during the
height of the season, and the piazzas in front command a

204

LAKES, KIVEllf}, AND M0UNTAIX3.

I ! 1

priculcss view of tlio liiko. At tlio steauihoat dock, a few
BtcpsUowii from tlio pia/za, row-boats may bo had in abun-
dance, upon roaaonablo tonus. TorniH of tliis Iiouho, $4
per day, ^2') per week ; acconiiuodations for say 350 quests.
The Lake 1 louse is auotber excellent house, whose i)iaz7.a
commands a fine view of tho ruins of Fort George, tlio
French Mountain, and Rattlesnake Hill, and of the islands
and hills ilown tho lake. Terms, $18 to $'25 per week ;
rooms for 150 j^uests. Desides these two chief houses,
there are stweral smaller inns or taverns, chielly frequented
by the residents of the region, for whom Caldwell is on
important halting-place on tho great water-route between
Albany and tho north country.

Before wo bid farewell to Lake Iloricon, we should
assure our nature-loving readers of a pleasure upon tho
water near tho echoing hills, close to Caldwell. About 1
mile from the steamboat dock, a merry row-boat party will
find the shores of the lake flinging back their songs and
laughter with delightful insolence ; and a little attention
will discern four distinct and ringing echoes, aj^parently
from all points of tho compass. A more serene enjoyment
than a row on this lake, just after tea and before daylight
has wholly withdnavn, can hardly bo commended to a
tourist in America.

The Road to Moreau. — Let us again urgently entreat,
dear reader, that our experience may persuade you to make
up a party for an ea-rlj ride to Glenn's Falls. The regular
stage leaves the Fort Williar»i Henry at 7 a.m. — the same
*imc taken by tho boat for Fort Ti : but if a sufficient
number of passenvirer'=< av^ booked the night previous, mine
host wilx see that you go as early as 4 o'clock, which
enables you to connect at 8.19 at Moreau with the train
reaching Albany at 10.50 A.M., New- York 5.15 p.m. Regu-

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LAKES, RIVEliS, AND MOUNTAINS.

205

ike
liar
[mo
lent
line
licli
lain

lar faro from tlio hotel to Moreau, $1.50; and if a wliolo
Btag«^loatl (nay 12) take tliis extra stage, there will not (as
otherwise there will) bo extra charge. The start ien an
early one ; but the back glances at the lake, from the top
of the stage, as the morning sun glorifies it, are worth a
c'ay's journey. One experience of each of the two morning
stoges, has more than satisfied the present writer of tho
value of the above advice.

Four miles from the lake, we pass a dark glen, in which
lie hidden the storied waters of Bloody Pond, and close by
is tho historic old boulder, remembered as Williams's Rock.
Near this last-mentioned spot. Colonel Williams, founder
of Williams College, in Massachusetts, was killed in an
engagement with the French and Indians, September 8tli,
1775. The slain in this unfortunate battle were cast into
the waters near by, since called Bloody Pond. It is now
quiet enough, under its surface of slimo and dank lilies.

Glenn's Falls, 9 miles from Iloricon, was the scene (18G0)
of one of those devastating fires wliich seem for some years
to have been preparing the Empire State for the visit of
Mr. Seward's earthquake. Tho village, with a population
of 5000 souls, was one of the most universally admired in
the State ; and its rebuilding has even added to its ele-
gance. It stands upon a fall in the upper Hudson, from
which it takes its name. The passage of the river is
through a rude ravine, in a descent of 75 feet over a rocky
precipice of 900 feet in length. The water descends in a
succession of leaps over rugged rocks, amid which it boils
and foams, spurts and thunders, in magnificent style, espe-
cially when the river is in full-flood, as it finds its way
through the wild ravine, and emerges into the quiet lands
below. Within the roar of these rapids were laid some of

!
r

kru-

206

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

the scenes in Fenimore Cooper's noTel of the Last of the
Mohicans.

The ride over the plank road beyond the falls is a mat-
ter of no especial interest, and is only valuable for inducing
an appetite, if you left the lak^. lunch less. Perhaps this
is not a merit ; for when we reach Moreau Station, we find
a good country breakfast smoking on the table for us, and
only about four minutes to eat it in. There is a capital
restaurant in the union railway depot at Troy, but the trains
connect too closely to allow more time here, and the next
available eating-point will be Poughkeepsie. A four-min-
ute breakfast, therefore, or a hurried lunch before leaving
Horicon, must be counted in the price of this sunrise.

LAKE MAHOPAC AND VICINITY.

Of inlnnd lakes or waterinj[:'-places within a few miles'
ride of the great metropolis, none is more popular as an
elegant resort than Lake Mahopac. By the Harlem E ail-
way, one may go in 2 hours to Croton Falls, (51 miles, fare
$1.50,) whence stages (5 miles west, 75 cents regular fare)
run in less than an hour to the hoteh and boarding-houses
on the shores of the lake. There are three first-class
hotels : Gregory's, Thompson's, and Baldwin's. Gregory's
(L. H. Gregory, proprietor) is the best known of the three,
lighted with gas, and having telegraph and mail facilities
within its grounds ; rooms for 250 to 300 guests ; terms,
$4 per day, $21 to $25 per week. At either Thompson's
(N. L. Thompson, proprietor) or Baldwin's (R. D. Baldwin,
proprietor) there are accommodations for as many more
boarders, at terms ranging from $18 to $21 per week, $4
per day. Bowling and billiards may be enjoyed at these
two houses. New- York papers arrive at all the hotels at

It'

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

207

Lass

Jms,
m's
dn,
Lore

^ese
at

11 A.3f. from Peekskill. The season begins about June 1st,
and continues four months ; a few people come as early as
May. Post-ofl5ce address, Maliopac, Putnam county,, New-
York. Besides these hotels, there is a large number' of
boarding-houses, able to accommodate some 500 persons.
The estimate we have given of the hotel capabilities is a
comfortable minimum ; many more persons could be
packed away on occasion, but the hotels at Mahopac are
not Saratoga trunks. For example, Mr. Gregory has sup-
plied 500 people with dinners on a single day, and the
other two houses are capable of similar phenomena. Slos-
son's, at the east end, and Dean's, near the outlet, (west,)
are the chief of the boarding-houses, and are capable of
ke<3ping 125 gues+s each, at $12 or $15 to $18 per week.
The smaller houses will charge about $10 to $15.

Lake Mahopac is very beautifully situated, 14 miles
from the Hudson at Peekskill, and 2 from the Croton
River, at an elevation of about 1000 feet above tide-water
and 700 or 800 above Croton Dam. It has no inlet, being
spring-fed, like Seneca. The outlet is on the western
side, and discharges the waters into Croton River just
above the great dam. There are three islands in the lake,
called Blackberry, Petrie, and Fairy Islands — the latter the
smallest, but boasting an elegant cottage. Petrie has an
area of 10 acres, and is the favorite picnicking ground.
The other island is of four times this extent. There is
some fishing in the lake, chiefly for black bass. The
roads, and the farming country through which they pass,
are excellent and attractive. The favorite drives are to
Croton Dam and Water- works, 16 miles south ; Carmel,
county-seat of Putnam, 5 miles north-east ; Somers, over
in Westchester county, etc. But the great charm of this
resort is in the fact that it is the centre, chief, and reser-

208

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

voir (with two exceptions) of a group of 23 lakes, lying
within a circumference of 12 miles radius. All but 3 or 4
of these lakelets feed the famous river which supplies the
metropolis with its drinking-water; and Lake Mahopac,
""^eing one of these, presents therefore an additional attrac-
tion in the beauty and sweetness of its contents. Mahopac
is nearly circular in form, 2 miles in diameter, but about

9 miles in circumference, owing to the deep indentations
which it makes at many points. There is a good road
lying along the shore for about half this circumference,
and it is intended to complete it soon for the entire dis-
tance.

The nearest of the lakelets are but a few rods distant
from Mahopac, as follows : Kirk, 20 rods west, 1 mile long ;
Mud, 50 rods east, |r of a mile in diameter ; Wixon, ^ a
mile north, same size; and Carmel (north) and Gilead,
(south-east,) 3 miles distant, each about 1 mile by i^ a mile
in extent. Besides these, we may name more particularly
several of the larger lakes of the group.

OsKEWANNA Lake. — Oskewanna Lake is 8 or 9 miles
distant from Peekskill.

Mr. Lee has established a hotel here, with rooms for 150
guests ; terms, $3 per day, $10 to $14 per week.

Osceola Lake. — Between Lakes Mahopac and Mohegan,
5 Tuiles from the former, at Jefferson Valley, lies Osceola
Lake, about |- of a mile in diameter.

Jacob's Hotel here was built last summer, and will
accommodate 50 boarders — probably at $15 per week.

Lake Mohegan. — Lake Mohegan is at Jefferson Valley,

10 miles south-west of Mahopac, on the Peekskill road.
There is a boarding-house here (Mr. Jones's) capable of

keeping 30 or 40 persons ; terms, $3 per day, $15 per
week.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

209

Lake Wacabac— 4^ miles east of KatonaL Station, on
tlie Harlem Railway, lias a new Iiotel, (Mead's,) where
some 75 people may find entertair ment for $3 per day, $10
to $15 per week.

Peach Lake.— This is al >ut as far from Croton Falls
Station as Wacabac from Katonah, and Vail's Hotel
resembles Meade's in size and charges. These two lakes
are each less than a mile in diameter.

OHATTTATTQUA LAKE.

Chautauqua is furthest west of the many " eyes of the land-
scape " which brighten the face of the great Empire State.
It lies in Chautauqua county, which is bounded on two
sides by Pennsylvania, and is 18 miles long by 1 to 8 in
width. It is said to be the highest navigable water on
the American continent, being 730 feet above Lake Erie,
and 1290 above the Atlantic Ocean. Steamboats run from
Maysville, at its northern extremity, to the commencement
of the outlet, whence small boats can descend to the Alle-
ghany River. The name it bears is a corruption of an
Indian phrase, signifying " a foggy place," and was given
in consequence of the mists which frequently rise from the
surface of the lake.

Hotels. — At Maysville, the Fox House, by Horace Fox.
Besides this, the same proprietor opened last year a hotel,
with rooms for 50 or 60 guests, near the depot, and on the
very shore of the lake, called Chautauqua Lake Honse.
Besides the steamer which plies regularly between Mays-
ville and Jamestown, there is a neat and commodious
steamer for pleasure parties, who wish " to do the lake "
more extensively. Maysville is one of the most healthful
and delightful places of resort in the State, retired and

'I' ■

210

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

select. The Atlantic and Great Western Railway trains
stop at Jamestown, wliicli is at the southern extremity of
Chautauqua, 449 miles from New- York (changing from
Erie Railway at Salamanca). The home residence of Gov-
ernor Fenton may be seen from the car-windows on the
left, ffoinir west, at this station.

fill

CANANDAIGUA LAKE.

Among the " interior lakes," navigable, of the State of
New- York, is included Canandaigua Lake. This beautiful
sheet of water lie^ 668 feet above tide- water, chiefly within
Ontario county, but overpassing slightly the north-western
boundary of the county of Yates ; thus being nearly paral-
lel with Crooked Lake, which lies to the south-east, both
forming with Seneca and Cayuga a sort of inverted V upon
the map. Canandaigua and Crooked Lakes are 13 miles
apart.

Canandaigua is the point of arrival for this lake, and is
upon both the New- York Central and Erie routes. The
" Auburn," or " Old Road " of the Central, brings the pas-
senger to Canandaigua, 75 miles west from Syracuse, 223
from Albany. The Erie Railway connects with Canan-
daigua by the Northern Central, formerly called at this
section the " Canandaigua Branch " of the Erie, from El-
mira. The Northern Central makes nearly a due northerly
course from Harrisburg, Pa., through Williamsport, Pa.,/
and Elmira and Watkins, N. Y., (see article on Seneca
Lake,) to this town.

A steamboat makes eight trips between Canandaigua
and Naples (on the inlet, 4 miles above the lake) each day.

The shores are generally high and rocky, forcing the
settlements back from the water some distance. At Seneca

LAKES, ElVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

211

Point, 10 miles from Canandaigua, there is a landing", and
a pleasant summer hotel called the Lake House, Mr. C. D.
Castle, landlord. Terms, $2. 50 to $3 pei day ; $12 to $15
(probably) per week. This house boasts fine ball and bil-
liard-rooms, and a half-mile track near it, with a beautiful
grove. There is also a deep glen, 2 miles long, in the vi-
cinity ; and Canandaigua is well-known for its gas-springs,
chiefly in the hollows at Bristol, East-Bloomfield, and Eich-
mond. There is also a sulphur-spring at Canandaigua.

SENECA LAKE-THE WATKINS GLEN.

The principal watering places within a reasonable dis-
tance of New- York have been so thoroughly visited and
digested that the pleasure-seeking public sigh for some
new world to conquer, oi some new place to " do." Not
all of our roaming citizens are ignorant of the beautiful
place which we are about to describe, and there is but one
opinion as to its enchanting beauty among those who have
seen it.

The village of Watkins is situated at the head of Se-
neca Lake, distant about 11 hours' ride from New- York.
The route thither from this city is by the Erie Railway -to
Elmira, and thence by the Nortbern Central of Pennsyl-
vania to Watkins — 22 miles north. The village itself is a
thriving, well-to-do town of some 3000 inhabitants, with
two large, excellent hotels — the Jefferson House and the
Fall Brook House — and several smaller ones. It lies on
the level valley close about the south-west corner of the
lake, creeping up the hill-side, and extending along the
shore.

The Glen, of which we design more particularly to
write, is a deep gorge in the hill, through which a stream

212

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

of water tumbles, and reaches the plain at the south end
of the village. Passing up the main street, which is called
Franklin, about half a mile from our hotel, we turn
abruptly to the right and enter a huge amphitheatre,
whose lofty walls of perpendicular rock seem to hang 20ft
or 300 feet above our heads. At the upper (west) end,
these walls approach close together and seem to join, but,
in fact, they lap, and between their jaws, by a winding,
intricate stairway, we ascend, and are within what is
called the First Glen. A narrow path has been cut in the
rocks by which we walk along somewhat timidly, step-
ping here and there on a stray speck of sunshine, which
has leaked through a crevice in the rocks. Looking up,
we see that the rocks, at a dizzy height, have sloped
inwardly, so as almost to meet at the top. Trees grow
thickly on the brink and clinging to the walls. What
with the trees and impending rocks, very little sunlight
finds its way within, and the result is a grateful one on
a hot day. This Glen is a trifle less than a quarter of
a mile in length, and at its upper extremity has a beautiful
waterfall of some 70 or 80 feet in the clear. Ascending
an almost perpendicular stairway of 50 odd steps, directly in
the face of this fall, we climb up the bank, and after rest-
ing awhile at the Mountain House, a well-kept refresh-
ment saloon, where sometimes 500 thirsty visitors are
" creamed " and " lemonaded " at (Jnce, we proceed with
our journey. The Second Glen is as quiet and gentle as
the first was romantic and wild. It is about 1000 feet in
length, with a perfectly level floor, over which the stream
is spread not half an inch deep. The sides are of lofty, per-
pendicular rock, and of a perfectly oval form. It is called
the Amphitheatre, and the r.ame is even more appropriate
than at the entrance, where we used it. At the upper end

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

213

is a fall similar to tlie ono at the head of the glen below,
over which we pass and visit in succession the Third,
Fourth, and Fifth Glens, each one noted for its romantic and
peculiar grandeur. The scenery is no less wild than in
the First Glen, but the rocky walls are not so high. On the
other hand, they are much nearer together — in some places
it being almost possible to touch both sides with the ex-
tended hands — while the stream passionately foams and
rushes through its smooth channel below. The succession
of cascades, pools, rapids, and lofty falls in endless pro-
fusion almost bewilders the visitor, and he finds it impos-
sible to keep the run of all of them. In the Fourth Glen is
a beautiful fall called the Rainbow Fall, formed by water
from the hill-side trickling down the mossy bank. The
path lies behind and under this fall, and, when the sun
strikes the water, the prismatic effect is very beautiful.
We have now traveled about a mile and a half from the
plain, and having come to the end of our journey, turn
back by the same path, as far as the Mountain House.
After our up-hill journey, we are not unwilling to sit down
for a few minutes, and can well employ the time with the
stereoscope in looking over a series of 47 photographs of
the various scenes of interest on our trip, which are as
fine specimens of out-door photography as are taken in
this country.

At the Mountain House we leave the ravine and climb
the mountain which forms its side. When we get to the
top, a splendid panorama greets our eye. Directly at our
feet, some 500 or 600 feet below us, lies the village. It
seems so near, that imagination almost furnishes the con-
versation to our ear, between those two men at the corner,
or of fliat innocent flirtation in yonder shady lawn. Be-
yond the village, stretching away in front of us for more

214

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

than 20 miles, is Seneca Lake — its deep, never-freezing
waters, of a deep sea-green, sparkling and rippling in the
sun. The hills on either side slope gently down to the
water and are cultivated to the very shore. Within a few
years it has been discovered that the west bank offers admi-
rable facilities f' r grape culture, and hundreds of acres are
now laid out as vineyards.

The hills about Watkins afford an almost endless suc-
cession of drives, on which new and constantly changing
scenery unfolds like a panorama. The air is pure and
bracing, and the fierce heat of the mid-summer sun is tem-
pered by the gentle breezes wafted over the waters.

There are two remarkable characteristics of Seneca
Lake. First, its great depth. The lake has been sounded
in some parts, and bottom found at a depth of over 700 feet.
In other places the same length of line fails to reach the
bed. The bottom at some points goes off almost perpen-
dicularly, and the writer of this sketch has dropped a
plummet, not 50 feet from shore, to the depth of over 150
feet before reaching bottom. Another peculiarity is, that
the lake never freezes. But twice within the recollection
of the inhabitants have the boats been stopped running by
ice. One occasion was in 1855, and the other during the
past winter. On neither of these occasions, however, has
the entire surface been covered with ice : only about one
third of the length at each end becomes frozen, leaving 10
or 12 miles of open water in the centre. The writer has
passed over the lake in a steamboat, from dock to dock, in
January, with the thermometer marking 10° below zero,
and not seen enough ice in the water to cool a pitcher-full.
There are two passenger-boats on the lake, which make
semi-diurnal trips from Watkins to Geneva ; the A. W.
Lanffdon, which leaves Watkins for Geneva about 8

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

215

o'clock in the morning, and returning, leaves Geneva at 4
P.M., and the D. S. Magee, Capt. D. P. Dey, which leaves
Geneva at 9 a.m., and Watkins at 3 p.m. The Magee is
the favorite with travelers generally, her accommodations
being delightfully cozy and her table superb.

The most direct route to Watkins from New- York City
is by the Erie Railway to Elmira, 274 miles ; there chang-
ing to the Northern Central of Pennsylvania, (whose trains
connect with those on the Erie,) north 22 miles to Wat-
kins. Tickets can be bought from New- York to Geneva
for $7.25, the same fare as to Watkins, (Geneva being a
competing point on the New- York Central,) and the tourist
at his leisure can go down the lake. Under the present
competition, however, it is cheaper to buy a ticket on the
Erie to Rochester for $5, leave the cars at Elmira, and pay
65 cents thence to Watkins. The Northern Central runs
through Watkins to Canandaigua, where direct connec-
tions are made with the New- York Central trains, making
this the shortest route from New- York to Niagara Falls.

CAYUGA LAKE AND TAGHKANIC FALLS.

If, years ago, a distinguished poet remarked of Tren-
ton Falls, that it was " a niche in the long corridor of
travel between Albany and Bufiklo — a side-scene out of
ear-shot of the crowd — a recess in a window, whither you
draw a friend by the button for the sake of chit-chat at
ease," surely the well-informed tourist will hesitate to re-
peat the words at that popular resort now. They more
fitly belong to the lakes Seneca and Cayuga — ^more, too,
to the latter than the former. Trenton Falls are but a
railway-step from one of the most prominent cities of the
State ; these twin lakes lie upon that out-of-the way, indi-
rect, unpopular branch of the Central Railway known as

210

LAKES, lUVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS.

*' tho Old Road." Thanks to tlio wcaltli and elci^aiico of
Geneva, and to the grovvin;? fame of tho Wutkins Glon,
Seneca Lake is now tolerably well-known to tourlHts ; but
the charms of ('ayiif?a have hitherto been proclaimed only
by local writers, and too often escape the notice of the loi.
tcrer alonf? the "corridor." Tho two lakes are marvel-
cusly similar, in length, width, direction, and even tho
general manner of their scenery ; whihi at tho southern
extremity each has her own peculiar attraelion, yet with
the same almost amusing evidence of twiushij). Henoca
has a rocky, wooded ravine, whose attraction is in its walls
and passages ; Cayuga has a ravine, too ; but here the
wonder is at the waterfall, tho highest in the State. The
two ravines, like the two lakes, are the complements of
each other, and the tourist Vv'ill be sure of repentance
some day if he miss seeing them both.

Cayuga, like Seneca Lake, is reached best by the New-
York Central Railway, though it is also approached from
tho Erie side. Route from New- York City : Hudson River
to Albany or Troy ; Central Railway to Syracuse direct,
where passengers for Auburn, Cayuga, Q(Mieva,etc., change
cars. Time, (n''"' rail,) 13^ hours ; regular fare, (consider-
ably less ia Buuimer,) $7. Cayuga Station (refrcshment-
saloon in the building) is at the foot of the lake, and steam-
boats (Aurora and Kate Morgan) leave at 9 A.M. and 3
P.M. for Ithaca. The wharf is but a few steps from the
rail-track; th(^ railway crosses the extreme north end of
the lake a little beyond this station.

By the Erie Railway, one leaves Cliambers Street (Pa-
vonia) Ferry, New- York, at 7 p.m., and changes at Owego
to train leaving for Ithaca at 5.51 a.m., where it connects
with the steamboats leaving for Cayuga at 7 A.M. and 3
P.M Fare to Ithaca, $7.50 ; to Cayuga, $8.40.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUXTAIXS.

217

Loavinpf Caynga, and going up the lake toward tlio
south, (for tho wtranger must rcmoiubor that tho waters of
New- York State are on tlie northerly side of the Allegliuny
watiT-sliod, and so flow from the south toward tlie Saint Law-
rence and llio North-Atlantic,) tho first landing is Spring-
port. On the outcropping (upper Helderberg) limestone
bluff here, the present Emperor of tho French made liis
camping^round for some time hiring his residence in
America. The town is a beautiful one, like all its fellows
here, and boasts a mill-pond which is wholly fed by
springs, like Lake Seneca. Aurora, next landing, is con-
Bidered the prettiest town in New- York State ; anu whether
Louis Napoleon gave tho first impulse or not, its people
certainly resemble the Parisian government in driving
from its borders, as fast as possible, all evidence of poverty
or toil. Thus one can almost see the wrathful glances of
these haughty townsfolk toward a large iron factory which
alone mars the beauty of tho bank. There are a number
of very fine residences visible from deck, of which Colonel
(ex-Congressman) Morgan's is the chief. The residence
of Mr. \V. H. Bogart, the "Sentinel" of tho Wo7-ld, is
somcwhnt inappropriately located on this inland shore.
Further on, across the lake, near Frog Point, or Trumans-
burg, as the landing for Taghkanic Falls is unmelodi-
ously named, tho effect produced by several of the many
wild ravines of this region will be noticed. They come
down the sloping bank of the lake at such regular inter-
vals as to induce the fancy uf great building-lots, devised
by Nature for the benefit of imaginative re?l-estate asso-
ciations. But tho chief ravine, whose present misnomer
is Ilalsey's Creek, will demanu and receive more interested
consideration.

TAGiiiiANic Falls.— The tourist may land here, visit

218

LAKES, RIVERS, iVXD MOUNTAIN^.

the falls hurriedly, and gut back to the wlmrf ii\ time
to take tho eanie boat, after it has completed its trip to
Ithaca and returned hitlier. A ^viHer course, however,
will at least ho to 8[)end a day at tho Tails. Leiivieg tho
boat, you find a stage ready to convey you up the steep
hill (1 mile — 25 cents) to the Taghkanic 11ouh«^, just in
front of 'laghkanic Falls, tho highest in New- York
State. Mr. J. S. Ilalsey is landlord here, imd ims the repu-
tation of keeping an excellent country hotel ; terms,
$3.50 per day, $14 per week. Po8t-olli(;e address, Tru-
mansburg, Tompkins County, Now- York. Telegraph sta-
tion at Ithaca, 10 miles. Families may bo e specially re-
'Commended hither.

Ilalsey, or Taghkanic, Creek is one of tho largest of
1;he water-courses which intersect tho fertile farming lands
lying between the twin lakes, Cayuga and Seneca. Tak-
ing its rise in the highlands midway between them, it
flows in an easterly course, until at length it unites its
waters with those of tho calm Cayuga. Flowing with a
gradual and gentle descent through a rich and flourishing
•country, its banks aro dotted with numerous mills and
manufacturing establishments, until, at the distance of a
mile and a half from the lake, it would appear that Na-
ture had determined to check its further progress by erect-
ing an impassable barrier. This is a rocky ledge, rising
some 50 or CO feet directly in tho path of the little river.
But tho stream has succeeded in excavating for itself a
channel from 100 to 400 feet in depth, and 400 feet across
at its lower extremity. Through this yawning chasm,
which is properly the Taghkanic ravine, the victiorious
waters hurry on to the precipice, half a mile further
down, where, on account of a difference in the structure
of the rock, while the height of the banks remains un-

LAKES, KIVKRS, AND MOUNTAINS.

219

diminiHli(!(l, the etroam falls porpondicularly 215 fcot into
a rocky luisin, thuH forming a cataract nioro tliaa 50 feet
Lig-lier than Niagara.

The jagjjr<*(l rock rift, through which tho riv(;r rolls bo-
fore it makes tlio plunge, is some 200 fec^t in depth, tho
rocky channel becoming a triangle at the brink, and tho
water plunges some 215 feet (as already stated) more to
the bottorii, where tho ravine is upward of 400 feet per-
pcndicuhir. " Tho fall is, in truth," says Dr. Gcorgo 13.
Cheever, who visited tho place in 1851), " tho Staubbach
of Switzerland most absolutely reproduced, and of con-
centrated beauty and grandeur."

To obtain tho best view of tho falls, it is necessary to
descend to the bed of tho ravine, and follow it upward
until wo stand at tho foot of the precipice. Tho descent
is a very wearisome and displeasing one, being over seve-
ral very rickety, ill- made wooden stair- cases, which occupy
one's closest attention ; but tho ramble up tho ravine is
extremely entertaining. The visitor will also bo amply
repaid for a journey along tho base of the cliff to tho lake
— if, indeed, ho will not find a walk of a mile by that way
preferable to tho tedious climb up tho pseudo-stairway
again. A visit to the ravine and Upper Fall above, par-
ticularly to the point of tho triangle over which tho wa-
ter of the chief fall leaps, is also indispensable to a com-
plete comprehension of Taghkanic.

Ithaca is the principal town on Cayuga Lake, 38 miles
from Cayuga, and is the southern terminus of the lake
and our journey over it.

Tliere are 15 falls in and about the town of Ithaca, namely,
j^ail ^>eek, 150 feet ; Forest, 70; Foaming, 70 ; Rocky and
'ir'piiammer ; all on the same stream, (Fall Creek ;) En-
licM , ICO, on Five-Mile Creek ; three on Buttermilk Creek,

220

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS.

tlie second called by its name, and the third the Pulpit
Fall ; the three beinj[? respectively 130, 100, and 30 feet in
height ; the three falls on Lick Brook, of which the high-
est quite rivals Taghkanic, it is thought ; Well Fall, 50
feet, otherwise called the Cornell, on Six-Mile Creek ; the
Wisner, the second, 100 feet, and the third, Quarry, on the
Cascadilla.

The Clinton House, S. D. Thompson, proprietor, can ac-
commodate 100 guests the year round. Terms, $3 per
day.

LAKE MOHENSICK.

Mohensick, together with its neighbors, Mahopac and
Mohegan, is a tributary of the Croton. We wisli that we
could paint a picture or write a verse about Mohensick ;
but the experience of Byles Gridley and his dead book
constrains us to drop the brush and to let Pegasus go to
grass, for there's plenty of it here. There was a very
pretty picture of it in the Academy of Design, last winter,
but the artist called it by its old Dutch sobriquet of
Crum Pond.

The lake lies about o miles east of Peekskill, and about
900 feet above the Hudson. Its circumference is between
4 and 5 miles, and from the hills, which surround it, there
are some of the finest views our eyes have ever beheld.
" Far to the westward, through the haze, peak piled on
peak and folded to the sky, the (Eternal hills sweep and
spread and broaden like a dream. Grander than the ocean
itself, there is nothing more majestic than where God
sweeps his horizon with his glorious pencil of mountain
blue."

LAKE LUZERNE.

Luzerne is 23 miles by the Adirondack Railway from
Saratoga. This road was started 15 or 30 years ago with the
design of going to Sackett's Harbor. It met a good many

it
in
h~
)0
le

LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

221

reverses, and passed tlirou<?li the hands of a number of
American companies. In 1859, some wealthy English capi-
talists took hold of it, but became frightened at the com-
mencement of the war, and refused to put any more money
into it. Finally, 2 or 3 years ago, Mr. Durant, of the Union
Pacific Hail way, came into it, and it was built to Luzerne
and 3 miles beyond, and commenced running. A charter
was obtained to run it from Saratoga to a point on Lake
Ontario, a little above Cape Vincent. It is designed to
have it pass the Adirondack Iron- Works, and develop
those immense mines of the best ore in the world. It will
also pass through a vast tract of great lumber wealth
which has heretofore been inaccessible. The road runs
from Saratoga straight up into the mountains. It ascends
700 feet the first 6 miles, and toward Luzerne it is built
over a succession of hills and gorges and streams that
render the scenery exceedingly jiicturesque. Sometimes
the sandy peaks rise 70 or 80 feet above the track, and a
few rods further the train will pass over a trestle-work at
an elevation of as many feet from the valley below. One
trestle-work is 1310 feet long, and 31 feet high in the
highest part — much longer than the long trestle-work on
the Athens line. The scene, in passing over the Sacan-
daga, near where it joins the Hudson, is especially fine.
The bridge must be 400 or 500 feet in length, and it is 96
feet high from the bed of the river to the track. At one
side, half the distance down, is a bridge, which used to be
considered rather high, connecting with the wagon road,
on a lower point of the side-hill. The railway passes
within a mile of Corinth Falls. Above the Falls the river is
expanded ; but as it approaches there, it contracts between
the limestone rocks to a width of 50 feet, and leaps down a
precipice CO feet high, in one unbroken sheet. From the
road are seen also the Catskills in the distance on the

222

LAKES,

RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

f I

,1*
III

south-west, and the nearer Kaidairosseras Range on the
east.

Arrived at Luzerne, we pass over the Hudson, which, at
the north of the bridge, rushes through a narrow gorge
of rocks not more than 20 feet wide at places, expand-
ing below the bridge over a level plain to a shallowness
which enables one to ford it without much difficulty. From
this high bridge it is said that a man once sprang into the
rapids for fun ; and when he came out, he was so fright-
ened that he declared that he " wouldn't 'a done it agin
for $5."

Here, near the Hudson, in the same house which Gen.
Dix occupied, Mr. Pierrepont, of Brooklyn, in honor of
whom Pierrepont street in that city was named, resides.
His magnificent residence on Brooklyn Heights overlooks,
across the East River and the Battery, the mouth of the
Hudson, where it is 2 miles wide. His summer residence
here overlooks the Hudson, narrowed to a width of 20 feet.

A little further along is Mr. George Rockwell's famous
and favorite hotel, where venison and trout are a staple
dish, and where the happiness of the host is in exact ratio
to the appetite of his guests. Mr. Rockwell's two sons
keep the best house on Lake George.

And, by the way, it may be mentioned that this is a
very picturesque route to Horicon. From Luzerne to the
lake the stage ride is only about 10 i 'les, over a very
pleasant road, while by Moreau it is 1^ miles over wea-
risome though beautiful road.

There are about 150 people generally stopping for a
time at Luzerne. Among other amusements they have
picnics. You cross the lake in boats, and land at
Stewart's Bridge. Thence you take wagons, drawn each
by two yoke of oxen, by a winding road up the mountain.

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIKS.

223

Mr. Lebeau, Conf^rcssman from Long Island, lias a
beautiful summer residence overlooking Lake Luzerne.
Out on the lake, rowing with his family, we found Mr. L.
J. A. Papineau, of Montreal, the son of the leader of the
Papineau Rebellion in Canada, in 1836. A reward being
offered for his tiead, he escaped across the border in a tin
box, in a peddler's wagon, with holes in it to supply air,
and took refuge with Chancellor Walworth, of Saratoga.

CEOTON LAKE.

Croton Lake is most directly reached by the Harlem Rail-
way cars to Mount Kisco, a promising village 37 miles
from New- York. The past few years have witnessed a
remarkable increase in its size and importance. A new
depot is now occupied, and a special train, leaving New-
York at 6 P.M. (extended from White Plains) was escab-
lished last year. Also, it may be mentioned, the Albany
express makes this one of its stopping-places. The lake is
about 3 miles westward, and the drive is '^ery charming
over a rolling country characteristic of Putnam county,
and the eye is delighted with views of beautiful and diver-
sified scenery.

Winding along may be seen the sparkling Kisco, tracing
its course through green meadows and leafy groves, until
it finally joins the lake. Soon we reach the lake, most
pleasantly situated in a valley ; it is about 6 miles long,
with an average width of about one eighth of a mile.

There is no hotel here, save at the Dam ; but a number
of farmers, in the summer months, receive boarders. Excel-
lent fare is obtainable, and moderate charges are the rule,
not the exception.

About 2 miles from the dam is Pine's Bridge, made his
torical from the well-known fact of its being located near

224

LAKES, EIVKRS, AND MOUNTAIx ";.

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1 4' '

tlie spot wliere Major Andre crossed, tlie same day of his
capcure, near Tarrjtown. Close by this locality are the
summer residences of Mr. Dunsconib, and Mr. George E.
L, Hyatt, merchant, of New- York.

The shape of the lake is rather irregular, which we may
attribute to its origin as a river ; this adds to its attraction
by affording, by its many little coves and miniature capes,
a novelty of scene as we sail in admiration over its surface.
The views of the eurrounding country, especially from the
summits of the neighboring hills, arc very attractive. A
varied landscape of woodland scenery, and undulating hills
clothed in emerald, or the golden hue of the ripening grain
greet the eye, gently relieved by the placid waters below.

At the head of the lake, in the vicinity of a small moun-
tain known as Muscootp., the scenery is quite wild and pic-
turesque.

Here may the true lover of the country find scope for
enjoyment ; for there is a charm in the aeclusion and sere-
nity of the place that can not fail to meet his sincere appre-
ciation. Untrammeled with the social requirements, and
removed from the glitter and frivolity of fashionable
watering-places, he can here consult happiness and com-
fort, and freely partake of the pleasure Nature offers to her
votaries.

" Rejoice, O Croton 1 in thy summer pride,
Decked forth in beauty as an Eastern bride.
The green hills round thee beam with azure smiles,
And fairy-like peep out thy sunny isles ;
Thy placid bosom wooed with soft embrace,
As heaven's own hues are mirrored on thy face,
Dear as the charm we linger on to see,
That marks the couch of sleeping infancy.
Then have I gazed, as if on beauty's cheek,
Thy look so calm and gentle, pure and meek,

«»

K! 11

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

225

Breathing such lore and tenderness, we might deem
Earth's cares and frailties were but all a dream ;
The world shut out— no sorrow could prevail
Within the precincts of this peaceful vale ;
For thy fair stream, soft murmuring as it flows,
Soothes every wayward passion to repose ;
'Mid bnsy Fancy's pictures we might dwell,
Aud close our days within thy quiet dell."

CROOKED LAKE.

There is no more pleasing summer retreat in the State
of New- York tlian Crooked Lake, or, as die newspapers
sav it is to be hereafter, Keuka Lake. It is accessible by
the Erie and Northern Central Railways through Elmira
to Penn Yan, 23 miles beyond Watkins,and 319 from New-
York City. Fare, $7.50. A new steamboat is to be placed
upon the lake this summer, and will ply daily betw^een
Penn Yan, at the foot, or north end, and Hammondsport,
in Urbana township, at the head water, the latter the
centre of the famous grape-growing and wine-making
region. The sheltered situation of the hill-slopes about
the foot of the lake affords peculiar opportunities for grape-
culture. Both towns are of considerable importance, and
visitors will find ample hotel accommodations at low rates.

The lake is situated within the limits of both Steuben
and Yates counties, and is about 18 miles long, with a
breadth at the greatest of 1^ miles. At the north end it
is divided by a promontory of great beauty into two forks
or branches, one 5, and the other 8 or 9 miles long. The
scenery along the shores is of a very picturesque character,
and the place is quite a favorite resovt with Western New-
York people.

226

LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS.

iiA

Ik' •

OWASCO LAKE.

A favorite resort for Syracuse people is O'ifasco Lake, a
"beautiful sheet of water 11 miles long, and from one half
to three quarters of a mile in breadth. It is situated in
Cayuga county, and is much admired for the boldness of
the bluffs which shut it i through much of its length.
The steamboat Owasco makes daily trips from Moravia to
Owasco Village. At the former place there are the Mora-
via House and the Skidmore, the latter, we underptand,
being refurnished and refitted for this summer. Terms,
about $2.50 per day ; $16 per week. Board may also be
obtained at the farm-houses which mark the shore all
through its length. There is a small hotel or tavern, call-
ed the Bennington House, at Owasco, at the head of the
lake, at which the most primitive prices which remain
in this " greenback era " will be found.

There are a number of places of interest to people
desirous of quiet country retreats ; such are Martin's Cor-
ners, Scipio, Smith's Corners, etc. Auburn, on the New-
York Central Railway, (under the head of which it may be
found mentioned at length,) is 7 miles from the lake, and is
its nearest railway station. It stands upon Owasco Outlet.
Upon the eastern tributary of this stream, in the town of
Moravia, is a cascade called Dry Falls, because it ceases to
flow in the summer. A little below this invisible cascade
is a circular recess in the face of the perpendicular pre-
cipice, 42 feet deep, and surrounded by a limestone arch,
55 feet high and 12 feet long. Upon this arch rises a lofty
hill covered with trees of a primitive forest. There is
much else of interest in and about the lake ; such as Mill
Brook Fall, 80 feet high ; a large spring of highly inflam-
mable gas, (carburetted hydrogen,) in the neighboring low-
lands ; a quarry of fine flagging-stone, etc.

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SPEIKGS AN"D FALLS.

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THE IIIXERAL STRIi^GS OF NEW-YOEK.

Tho Empire State is the most notable in tlio North for
the abundance and excellence of its uiermal and mineral
springs ; tlie chief one, at Saratoga, having such attrac-
tions as fairly to outrival the great cataract at the opposite
extremity of the State in the interest of tho summer tou-
rist. Saratoga and Syracuse have the only important
saline springs ; there are no chalybeate nor carbonated
springs, and only one or two localities where thermal
waters attract visitors. The other resorts belonging un-
der tills head are of the sulphur class, and are quite nu-
merous. We shall consider all these separately below.

SARATOGA SPRINGS.

Saratoga is a town of about 8000 inhabitants, built up
in a somewhat rambling and uneven manner, but with
many pleasant streets overhung with shade-trees. About
15,000 people visit it during the summer.

How TO GET TO IT. — It is 32 miles above Albany, and
on the route to Lake George. .The Hudson River boats to
Albany, and the Albany, Saratoga, and Whitehall Railway
from Albany, is the pleasantest route from New- York. At
Cohoes, on this railway, the Cohoes Falls can be seen from
the west windows of the cars. Passengers from the West,
East, and North take the cars from Albany, or come down
by way of Lake George. From the depot to Congress

SPRINGS AXD FALLS.

i!";):

Si)rinn:f?, or to tho Inrr^o hotels, is only two or tlirco min-
utes' walk.

Tho followhiir is a tahlo of distances from various cities
in tho Union to Saratoga Springs :

Washington, 41-2

New-York, 1.^2

IJoHton a32

PhiliuU'Iplilii, 274

Rvltlmore, 372

Albany 32

Troy 31

Cincinnati 714

Cliicugo, 841

Mi/cff.

Niajjara, 811

Ouebcc 803

Montreal 213

Wliitc Mountains, 323

Portland, liiO

St. Louis, 1030

LouiHvillo K76

liichmond, 543

New-Orlcuns, 2203

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railway passes through
the village, connecting, at Troy, with the Hudson River
and Harlem Railways from New- York ; at Allmny, with
the People's Line of Steamers on the Hudson River, and tho
Boston and Alhany Railway from the east ; at Sclienectady,
with the New- York Central Railway from the west ; and
at Rutland, with tho Rutland and. Burlington Railway
from both north and east ; and at Whitehall, with tho
Lake Champlain feteamers. Trains on the Rensselaer and
Saratoga Railway run each way twice a day during the
winter months, and three or more times a dav during the
summer months, connecting at above-named points with
trains and steamers from all portions of the Northern,
Eastern, and Western States, and Canada. Passengers by
the day-boats on the Hudson River have a full view of the
magnificent Highlands of the Hudson, and of the Catskill
Mountains, and reach Saratoga the same evening. Lake
Horicon, Lake Champlain, the Green Mountains, the Thou-
sand Islands, Niagara Falls, Trenton Falls, Richfield, Sha-
ron and Lebanon Springs, are all within a day's travel of
Saratoga.

The principal street of the town is Broadway, on which

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SPRINGS AND FALLS.

are situated the l&xgQ hotels, and which leads to the Con-
gress and Columbia Springs, and the Congress Spring
Grove.

This grove and park is owned and kept in order by the
Congress and Empire Spring Company, and is exceedingly
beautiful. A hill, in the shape of a horse-shoe, covered
with handsome trees and laid out in smooth walks, encir-
cles the low ground in which the spring is situated.

At the other side of the grove is Circular street, on
which are the handsomest residences in the place. There
are also fine residences on Franklin street, on the upper
and lower ends of Broadway, and on other streets. The
two principal hotels. Congress Hall and Union Hall, stand
opposite each other, near Congress Spring and Grove. A
little further down, and with the Wasliington Spring in
its grounds, is the Clarendon. North of Union Hall are
the American Hotel and the Marvin House.

THE HOTELS.

Congress Hall. — The new hotel, which has just been
completed, on the site of the old Congress Hall, (burned
May, 1866,) is said to be the largest hotel in the country.
It is situated on the east side of Broadway, with the Union
Hotel opposite it on the west, and the Congress Spring and
Grove opposite it on the south. It has a front of 400 feet
on Broadway, and 300 feet on Spring street, and runs
through from Broadway to Putnam street. The old Con-
gress Hall had only 198 feet front. The new house is
made so much larger by the addition of 41 feet on the
south, bought from the grouiids occupied by the Congress
Spring bottling-house, and by the addition of 40 feet on
the north, which was left by cutting through a new street.
It stands upon a steep side-hill, so that there are two stores

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

in the rear and a row of eleven stores at the south side,
under the main or first floor.

The foundations, which rest almost entirely upon the
solid rock underlying Saratoga, were laid October, 1867.
The new Congress Hall is built entirely of brick, and as
an additional precaution against fire, has seven fire-proof
brick walls extending through the whole structure, from
foundation to roof; so that if a fire should break out in any
part, it could be checked before communicating with otaer
parts of the house. The foundations are of iron, stone, and
brick; and there is no connection by wooden timbers
between the seven different compartments.

The square space between the front building and the
two wings is prettily laid out, and planted with trees, with
a balcony overlooking it. The front of the building has a
French roof ; and is five stories in height. The front piazza
is 20 feet wide and 240 feet long on Broadway, and 14 feet
wide and 60 feet long on Spring street. In the centre of
the top is an observatory, carried up to the height of
another story, containing additional rooms. It is 75 feet
from the ground, thus affording a view of all the vicinity ;
and being 60 feet in length by 48 feet in width, ^vili accom-
modate a large number of people who desire to sit in this
elevated position and receive the benefit of the evening
breezes. At the ends, also, are observatories, constructed
in the same style with the one in the centre, 40 by 35 feet.
These are elegantly designed, and add greatly to the
beauty of the building.

The house is built as a resort for the most fashionable
people who visit the place. The rooms are large and com-
modious. Every hall is 10 feet wide, running the whole
length (400 feet) of the front on each floor. Every modern
appliance for convenience, comfort, or luxury that can be

SP.TIINGS AND FALLS.

found in any Now- York hotel, is brought into requisition
here. A row of tall and thriving elm-trees stands in front
of the house. It has a beautiful dining-room, which can
also be used a,? a ball-room, and has also very large parlors
for nightly hops.

The building was erected by Mr. Henry H. Hawthorne,
well known as one of the influential men of the place, and
as the proprietor of the old Congress Hall. The wealthy
citizens, appreciating the loss to the town by the burn-
ing of Congress Hall, held several meetings, August, 1806,
to take into consideration the subject of rebuilding it.
It was finally decided that Mr. Hawthorne should give a
mortgage of $400,000 on the building as completed, the
furniture, the land, and also the land and buildings occu-
pied for wash-house, etc., and that subscriptions should be
taken for bonds based on this mortgage. The principal
is payable in ten annual payments, commencing the first
day of September, 1870, and included in the coupons. The
mortgage was given and recorded, and subscriptions made
by citizens, not only of Saratoga, but of New- York, Boston,
Chicago, Cincinnati, St. Louis, New-Orleans, and other
cities.

The Congress opens on the 15th of June. The price is
ordinarily $4.50 per day. It has 800 rooms, and accom-
modates about 1300 people.

The Union Hotel. — Tils hotel, which is kept by the
Leland Brothers, was the first hotel built at the Springs,
and was commenced in the year 1800, and opened in the
spring of 1802. It was built by Mr. Gideon Putnam, and
was called Putnam's Tavern. It was surrounded by a
wilderness ; there were only two or three cabins in the
vicinity, and though it was then only 70 feet front, it was
considered a very large building for such a place. Con-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

gress Spring had been discovered only 8 years, (tliougli the
High Rock Spring had been visited by Sir William John-
son 24 years previous ;) but Putnam was n Yankee from
Sutton, Mass., and he saw there was a great future for the
place. His sign at that time was a rudely-painted repre-
sentation of the original General Israel Putnam entering
the den of the wolf. Putnam died in 1812, and his two
sons, Rockwell and Washington Putnam, kept it until
1849. Mr. Henry H. Hawthorne, proprietor of the old
Congress Hall and of the new Congress Hall, during that
year bought out Rockwell's interest ; and in 1854 Mr. Ains-
worth bought Washington's interest. In the fall it was
sold to George Putnam, who kept it until 1864, when it
was bought by Leland Brothers. It has received vast addi-
tions and improvements, until it now covers with its wings,
its grounds, its opera-house, and its adjacent buildings, a
whole block of 7 acres. It is 650 feet in length. Its
grounds are beautifully shaded by elms, under which the
band plays every afternoon ; its broad piazzas and elegant
parlors afford seats and promenades for crowds of splen-
didly-dressed ladies. The interior of the opera-house is
handsomer than any building in town. There is a large
ball-room, and there are billiard and bowling-alleys for
both ladies and gentlemen. The dining-room is 250 feet
long, 53. feet wide, and 20 feet high, and will seat 1200
people.

The Union can accommodate 1200 peo^jle easily. Mr. 0.
G. Brown, with all the details of 800 rooms continually in
his mind's eye, disposes of the guests in the most affable
and expeditious manner, no matter how many there are,
or how excited they may be ; and Dr. Del Corral, who
understands half a dozen languages, hears the complaints
of any of the foreign guests who prefer to express them-

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

Its

selves in their native tongue. Warren, or William, or
George Leland is always on hand, and nobody doubts the
ability of any gentleman of that name " to keep a hotel."

It will open June 1st. The price will be $35 per week,
or $4.50 per day.

The Clarendon. — This hotel was built in 1860, and is
kept by Charles Leland, who is also the lessee of the Delavan
Ilouse, Albany. It is very aristocratic, and accommodates
the wealthy visitors who prefer to keep a little outside of
the whirl of gayety which characterizes the larger hotels.
It is magnificently circled by elms, faces Congress Grove,
and has the Washington, or Champagne, Spring in its
grounds, from which one can get spring-water lemonades.
It accommodates about 500 persons. It opens on June
1st, with the same prices as the Congress.

The American. — This house is on the next block north
of the Union, and is kept by Mr. Wm. McCaffrey. Mr.
Breslin, who was associated with Mr. McCaffrey last sum-
mer, has been captured by the Congress. The American
is a very pleasant house, and accommodates about 350
guests. It is open all the year round, with a scale of prices
not quite as high as the larger hotels.

Other Hotels and Houses. — The Marvin House will
accommodate 250 ; the Continental, 200 ; the Columbian,
200 ; the Pavilion, 100 ; the Everett, 100 ; the Wasliing-
ton, 100 ; the Mont Eagle, 100 ; White's, 100 ; Dr. Hamil-
ton's Medical Institute, 150; Dr. Strong's Water Cure,
100; Dr. Bedortha's Water Cure, 150; Mrs. Wilbur's, 100;
the Empire, 75 ; the Commercial, 75 ; the New- York, 50 ;
the Broadway, 50 ; the Mount Pleasant, 50.

At the water-cures, and at the Continental and Colum-
bian, many clergymen and people who do not mingle in
fashionable frivolities, make their headquarters. On

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

Franklin street there arc a number of fine boarding-
houses, including Mrs. Weeks's and Mrs. Spooner's, and
also many in the upper part of the town, which are more
quiet than the hotels, and quite pleasant, with shaded
piazzas and pretty croquet-grounds. Botird can bo ob-
tained at prices ranging from $10 to $20 per week.

THE SPRINGS.

High Rock. — This spring is the first the waters of
which were drunk by a white man, and it is the natural
curiosity of Saratoga. It was visited by Sir William John-
son in 17G7, while Saratoga was yet a wilderness ; the In-
dians bringing him to it on a litter, so that he might par-
take of its healing waters.

The water flows from an aperture, or cylindrical open-
ing, a foot in diameter, in a conical-shaped rock, 3i feet in
height and 24J- feet in circumference. This rock is the
result of the deposits of the mineral substance of the
water. The water, flowing up through the centre, and
running over its sides for hundreds of years, increased
it to its present dimensions. At some period not long
ago, when, as the Indians say, the Great Spirit became
angry, the water ceased to flow over the rock, but re-
mained at a short depth from the top of the opening, so
that it could be dipped out. The cause of the stoppage
of the overflow is explained on the more material theory
that the rock was cracked by the fall of a tree.

In 1866 — a century after its discovery by the white
man — Messrs. Seymour and Ainsworth and William Mc-
Caffrey bought thf spring and made preparations to tube
it. A slight excavation showed that the rock only ex-
tended a few inches below the surface, and it was easily

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SPRINGS AND FALLS.

removed. Within it was a chamber about two feet in
diameter, and below, a pit formed by tlio bubblinif wa-
ter, about 10 feet in depth, in which were found a largo
number of tumblers lost in dipping water. All around,
the soil was filled with incrustations formed by the
deposit from the water; but immediately beneath tho
rock lay tho body of a tree, 18 inches in diameter, which
still retained its fom., and was sufficiently firm to be sawed
in sections and pulled out. This tree must have fallen
before the formation of tho surface rock commenced, and
had probably lain there hundreds of years. Several feet
further down, the body of an oak, 8 inches in diameter,
was found, which has suffered very little decay.

The spring has been tubed down to tho solid rock from
which it flows ; a tasteful pagoda has been erected over
it, and a bottling-house by the side, and the water is notv
sold very extensively.

Congress Spring. — ^More of the water of this spring is
sold and drunk than of any other. It is owned by a com-
pany, which also owns the Columbian and Empire Springs.
It represents 200 or 300 stockholders, and has a capital of
$1,000,000. The work of bottling is carried on day and
night, the year round, except during a portion of the sum-
mer season, when for certain hours of the day there is so
much used that the supply is limited. For visitors, the
water is dipped out by boys from the tube rising out of the
ground under the pavilion at the entrance of Congress
Spring Park. For bottling, it is brought across the street
through a pipe by a pump, worked by a small steam-
engine. It enters a "drum," holding a few gallons, and
from this a tapering tube descends, which fits into the
neck of the bottles. The bottles are filled one at a time,
and immediately corked. About 4800 may be filled in 24

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

houra by steady work. 80,000 dozens of bottles of the Em-
pire water were sold last year, and about 4000 dozens of
the Columbian.

The Congress Spring was discovered in 1792—25 years
after Sir William Johnson visited the High Hock Spring.
The discoverers were three gentlemen who were hunting
in this valley, one of whom — John Taylor Oilman, of New-
Hampshire — was then a member of Congress, which fact
suggested the name of the spring. The low ground about
the sprmg was then a swamp, and the mineral water
issued in a small stream from an aperture in the side of
the rock which formed tl.o margin of the brook.

It was caught by holding a glass to the side of the rock ;
and as this means soon became insufficient to satisfy the
demands of visitors, an effort was made to confine it. The
result was the complete loss of the water for some time.
Gideon Putnam, that enterprising settler of Saratoga,
observed bubbles breaking up from the middle of the
brook, a few feet south of the rock. He turned the stream
from its course, and dug down about 8 feet, when the min-
eral water rose from several places in the marl. He pre-
pared a square tube of planks, and, placing it over several
of the little fountains, replaced the earth around it, and
thus secured the spring. It was iSrst bottled as an article
of merchandise in 1823, and is now sent to all portions of
the world.

Since then, springs have been developed all along the
valley, commencing at the Washington Spring, in the
grounds of the Clarendon Hotel, 600 feet south-west of
Congress Spring. This was tubed by Gideon Putnam,
but it was not until 1858 that the tube was extended down
to the solid rock. A shaft, 11 feet square, was first sunk
30 feet deep to the rock. The stream was then found to

SPRINGS AND TALLS.

tlie
Itlie

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ink
to

como from p lateral direction, and a tunnel was excavated
80 feet long. At this point the earth gave way, and the
water and gas flowed in so suddenly that the workmen
were scarcely able to escape, leaving their tools behind
them. In 15 minutes as much as 12,000 gallons of water,
and twice the quantity of carbonic acid gas, filled the ex-
cavation. A rotary pump, worked by a steam-engine, was
incapable of removing the water, and a second shaft was
sunk near the end of the tunnel. At the depth of 28 feet
the water also burst into this, so that it had to be aban-
doned. Still another shaft was then sunk, 20 feet in
diameter, in a Sc rith-easterly direction from the others,
and was held by a strong coffer-dam. When the rock was
reached, two formations were found issuing from a fissure,
one of these being tubed, the water soon rose to the
surface.

The Columbian Spring is but a few rods south-west
of the Congress, in the Congress Park. It contains much
more iron than the Congress Spring, j nd is drunk during
the day. Persons drinking it before breakfast are apt to
have a headache; while the Congress should only be
drunk upon an empty stomach.

About 30 rods to the north-east of the Congress, and in
the rear of Congress Hall, is the Hamilton Spring. It is
owned by Mrs. White, and is not bottled. 20 rods north
of the Hamilton is the Putnam Spring, which is a]>
proached through an alley-way from Broadway. It is a
fine water, and has a bathing establishment connected
with it. Still to the north is the Pavilion Fountain,
which is situated in what was once called the Willow
Walk, back of the site of the old Columbian Hotel, which
was burned. The walk is now not much frequented, and
the water not much used. FoUowinsr the course of the

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

,'il.

valley, the Flat Rock Spring was situated next, but it is
now lost, having mostly disappeared when the Pavilion
was tubed. The next spring to the north is the Seltzer
Spring, which was formerly called the Barrel Spring, for
the reason that a barrel was first used to confine the
water, which flowed over the ground. In I860, the spring
was tubed. After digging through 4 feet of muck, a solid
mass of calcareous tufa was found, 4 feet in thickness,
fonned in the same manner as the High Rock, by the
deposits of the water.

An analysis showed it to be composed principally of
carbonate of lime, carbonate of magnesia, oxide of iron,
and silica. In the process of excavation, a birch-tree was
also found in the calcareous deposit. Tliis spring differs
from the others in rising through a glass tube, 3 feet in
height, over the rim of which it flows. The bubbles can
be seen rising up through the tube, while at intervals of
about a minute there is an excessive escape of gas, causing
much larger bubbles and a greater agitation of the water.
This spring is named the Seltzer, on account of the resem-
blance of the water to the Seltzer of Germany. High
Rock Spring, with its water bubbling up through the
aperture in the conical rock 4 feet high, is less than 100
feet to the north.

Star Spring, formerly called the President and the
Iodine, is a few rods north of the High Rock. Next to the
north is the Empire Spring. The Saratoga A Spring is
on the road leading to the Tea Springs.

Excelsior Spring. — This is situated nearly 2 miles to
the east of the hotels, and is one of 10 mineral springs, none
of which are used except this. The tubing is 50 feet deep,
to the Trenton lime-rock, through which it flows through

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

it is
ilion
rzER
J, for
I the
pring
solid
:ness,
y tlie

llyof

iron,
;e was
differs
•eet in
es can
rals of
lusing
water,
resem-

HiGH
rli the

an 100

Qd the
to the
ring is

Qiles to
rs, none
et deep,
hrough

several crevices. There is a beautiful walk through a
grove to this spring, and also a pleasant drive.

Other Springs. — The Eureka Spring is also still fur-
ther from the town, and is surrounded by beautiful
scenery. In South-Argyle, Washington county, to the
east, there is a mineral fountain called Reed's Spring, the
water of which, however, is not equal to that of Saratoga
Springs. About 10 miles south-east of Congress Spring is
Paradise Spring, formerly called Quaker Spring, which
has been bottled in small quantities. About 2 miles
south-west of the hotel is a spri: \g near the railway track,
at the westerly side of the embankment. It is only used
by the j^eople in the viciuity.

Near the side of Saratoga Lake, opposite Moon's Lake
House, there is a sulphur spring, which is sometimes vis-
ited by persons driving around the lake.

USE AND PROPERTIES OF THE SPRINGS.

Directions are given in little circulars, at each of the
springs, for their use. The Congress and Empire are used
in the morning, as a cathartic. Drink leisurely two or
three glasses, take a walk around the beautiful gi'ounds,
Dnd returning to the spring, drink another glass or two, if
you please, and be at breakfast in 20 to 30 minutes after ;
but before eating, sip a cup of tea or coffee. The Colum-
bian and Washington are drunk during the day. The
Columbian should only be drunk in quantities of a glass
or half a glass at a time, or headache is likely to result.

The analysis of some of the principal springs is as follows :

HIGH ROCK SPRING.
To one Gallon. Grains.

Chloride of Sodium 190.233

Carbonate of Magnesia 63.100

SPRINGS AND PALLS,

Ji ;

i 11

Carbonate of Lime •'l.SaS

Carbonate of Soda 18.421

Carbonate of Iron 4.233

Iodide of Soda 2.177

Silex and Alumina 8.600

Hydro-Bromate of Potash—a small quantity.

SoUd contents 851.197

CONGRESS SPRING.

To one Gallon. Grains.

Chloride of Sodium 385.000

Hydriodate of Soda 3.500

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 8.982

Bi-Carbonate of Magnesia 95.788

Carbonate of Lime 9.809

Carbonate of Iron 5.075

Silex and Alumina 500

Hydro-Bromate of Potash— a trace.

Solid contents in a Gallon 59T.943

Carbonic Acid Gas 311 cubic inches.

Atmospheric Air 7 " "

Gaseous contents in a Gallon 318 cubic inches.

EMPIRE SPRING.

To one Gallon. Grains,

Chloride of Sodium 269.096

I?i-Carbonate of Lime 141.824

Bi-Carbonate of Magnesia 41.984

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 30.848

Hydriodate of Soda or Iodine 12.000

Bi-Carbonate of Iron— a trace.

Solid contents in a Gallon 496.852

Specific gravity 1.039

Carbonic Acid Gas 315 cubic inches.

Atmospheric Air 5 " "

COLUMBIAN SPRING.

To one Gallon. y Grains,

Chloride of Sodium 267.00

Bi-Carbonate of Soda 15.40

SPKINGS AND FALLS.

. a.583
. 18.431
. 4.233
. 2.177
. 2.500

.351.197

Grains,
.385.000
. 3.500
. 8.982
. 95.788
. 9.809
. 5.075
,. 500

...269.096
..141.824
.. 41.984
.. 30.848
.. 12.000

. .496.352
... 1.039
.68.

Grains.
...267.00
.... 15.40

Bi-Carbonate of Magnesia 46.71

Hydriodate of Soda 2.5q

Carbonate of Lime 68.00

Carbonate of Iron 5.58

Silex 2.05

Hydro-Bromate of Potash— scarcely a trace.

Solid contents in a Gallon , 407.30

Carbonic Acid Gas 272.06 inches.

Atmospheric Air 4.50 '■

276.56 inches.
EXCELSIOR SPRING.

To one Gallon. Grains,

Chloride of Sodium 370.642

Carbonate of Lime 77.000

Carbonate of Magnesia 32.333

Carbonate of Soda 15.000 '

Silicate of Potassa 7.000

Carbonate of Iron 2.215

Sulphate of Soda 1.321

Silicate of Soda 4.000

Iodide of Soda 4.235

Bromide of Potassa— a trace.
Sulphate of Strontia— a trace.

Solid contents in a Gallon 514.746

Carbonic Acid 250 cubic inches.

Atmosphere 3 " "

Gaseous contents 253 cubic inches.

PUTNAM SPRING.
To one Gallon. Grains.

Chloride of Sodium 220.000

Carbonate of Sodti 15.321

Carbonate of Magnesia 45.500

Carbonate of Lime 70.433

Carbonate of Iron 5.333

Iodide of Soda 2.500

Bromide of Potash— a trace.

Silex and Alumina I.6OO

Solid contents 360.587

i I

i i

i,\

I I

■f

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

Carbonic Acid 317.753

Atmospheric Air 8.080

Gaseous contents 320.833

Temperature 48**

HAMILTON SPRING.

To on£ Gallon. Grains.

Chloride of Sodium 298.656

Carbonate of Soda 34.250

Carbonate of Lime 97.996

Carbonate of Magnesia 39.066

Carbonate of Iron 4.625

Iodide of Soda 3.593

Silex and Alumina 1.000

Solid contents 479.191

Carbonic Acid 320.777

Atmospheric Air 1.461

Gaseous contents 322.233

Temperature 48'*

The mineral waters, as will be seen, contain large por-
tions of chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, carbonate of
lime, carbonate of mapfnesia, carbonate of iron, iodide of
soda, and traces of silex, alumina, and hydrobromate of
potash. These solid contents passing over the ground, are
precipitated, and form a rock, as is most wonderfully
shown in the High Rock. The waters contain great
quantities of carbonic acid gas, giving them the power of
dissolving minerals, forcing them up, and agitating the
top of the springs with bubbles by its continual escape.
The waters may be used in making bread instead of yeast.
The gas may be procured by preparing a bladder, securing
to its mouth a stop-cock, fitting to this the small aperture
of a large glass funnel, inverting the funnel over the
spring, emptying the bladder of air, and allowing it to
fill with gas. Press some of this gas into a tumbler, and.

s
3

I 1

m I

^^.' "

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

of course, a lighted candle will go out in it, and a mouse
will die in it in less than a minute. The water is quite
cold, and remains at the same temperature winter and
summer. It becomes quite pleasant to the taste after a
short time, and the inhabitants drink it to quench thirst.

The water of some of the springs, and especially of the
Excelsior, is put up and sent away in barrels, to be sold on
draught, but it has been found very difficult to preserve
the water in the condition in which it is drawn from the
spring. In many of the drug-stores, where it is sold on
draught ; it is necessary to charge it artificially with the
carbonic acid gas which it has lost in transportation. The
high price of mineral waters away from Saratoga is owing
chiefly to the cost of the bottles and of transportation.

The Congress and Empire Spring Company being una-
ble to procure all the bottles which they needed, have es-
tablished manufactories of their own at a village near
Saratoga, which they have called Congressville, and will
thus in future be able to supply the greater demand. If
the water could be confined in large quantities so as to re-
tain its gaseous and mineral qualities after transportation,
it could be sent away by hundreds of hogsheads, the flow
from some of the springs being estimated at between one
and two hundred gallons per minute. The flow of the
Congress water, however, is not more than two quarts per
minute, and but very little of it is now wasted.

Drives. — The principal drive, and the only one patron-
ized to any extent, is the dusty road to Moon's Lake House.
This is a most delightful place on the shore of Lake Sara-
toga ,which lies below, (down a steep hill,) and is spread out
beyond, presenting a most charming view. At the Lake
House the prices are high, the game dinners are good, and
the fried potatoes are noted all over the world, but can be

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

imitated nowhere else; they are done up in papers like
confectionery, and the gayly-dressed ladies riding home in
fine carriages may be seen eating them with their fingers
with beatific expressions on their countenances. On either
side of the lake the drive is very pleasant. Lake Saratoga
is 9 miles in length, and at its broadest part, Opposite
Snake Hill, is between 4 and 5 miles wide. Formerly,
it abounded in trout, but is now filled with the black
or Oswego bass, pickerel, muscalonge, and perch.

A small steamboat is run on the lake during the summer
time, and stages run from Saratoga to the lake. Lake
Saratoga empties by a small stream called Fish Creek into
the Hudson.

Coming back by another route to the town, the drive
passes Lake Lovely, which is much smaller than Lake
Saratoga. On the eastern shore, steep declivities rise up
from the water's edge, covered with tangled ferns and hem-
locks, some of which, the growth of centuries, rise above
their fellows till their tops, resembling so many spires,
seem lost in the clouds. In the rainy seasons, very consi-
derable torrents pour down the sides of these precipitous
banks, tumbling through the deep ravines and glens into
the lake, and in a few places forming cataracts of some
magnitude. One of these glens, on the eastern bank of
the lake, nearly opposite Abel's Lake House, forms an
echo almost as distinct and powerful as the celebrated one
in the ruined bastion of the old French fortress at Crown
Point. Another small body of water near here is called
Barhydt's Lake.

A drive of 16 miles on the road to Mount Pleasant leads
to Prospect or Waring Hill, which is 2000 feet above fide-
water, and commands a fine view.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

drive
Lake
se up
hem-
above
pires,
consi-
itous
into
Bome
kof
s an
d one
rown
ailed

I leads
tlde-

Tlio Saratoga Battle Ground is at Stillwater, quite a dis-
tance out of town, but easily reached by a carriage-road.

A very beautiful drive, but perhaps a pleasanter ride on
the Adirondack Railway, is to Luzerne, (see the article
on Lake Luzerne elsewhere,) which is situated about
22 miles from the springs. On the border of the lower
spurs of the Adirondacks there * ; fine fishing and hunting;
there ; the mountain air is exhilarating, and a row on the
lake to gather water-lilies is very delightful. Passing
from the depot over the Hudson, wliich is here bridged,
and rushes through a narrow gorge of rocks not more than
20 feet wide at places, the traveler finds George llock-
well's hotel, where dinners of trout and venison can be ob-
tained at proper notice, that can not be surpassed. From
this hotel a stage goes to Lake George, which is only 10
miles away and the route is more picturesque than that by
way of Moreau.

THE RACE-COURSE

is on the road to Saratoga Lake, only half a mile from the
springs. It was laid out by Charles H. Ballard, and is the
finest race-course in the country. It is a level mile-track
with commodious stands, and is kept in excellent order.
The races last about a week.

CHURCHES, ETC.

Saratoga has a Presbyterian, a Baptist, a Methodist, an
Episcopalian, a Congregationalist, and a Catholic church.
The Universalist Society usually arrange for services at
Leland's Opera-House. Ministers from various parts of
the country, stopping at Saratoga for a season, frequently
fill the pulpits of some of the churches. Dr. Cuyler, of
Brooklyn, who has spent his summers at Saratoga for many
years, usually preaches nearly every Sunday, and crowds

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

go to hear him. The Young Men's Christian Association
have a fine room and hold daily prayer-meetings.

BURNING OF HOTELS.

Twenty-five years ago, the Pavilion Hotel, which was
the favorite resort at that time, was destroyed by fire. The
grounds where it stood are now occupied by the Presby-
terian church. Since then nearly the whole of the east
side of Broadway, from the church to Congrfess Spring, has
been burned over by successive fires. On July 4th, 18G4,
Dr. Bedortha's water-cure establishment, a famous resort,
capable of accommodating 200 guests, was burned, and of
a loss of $75,000 only $18,000 was covered by insurance.

In June, 1865, the United States Hotel, worth $300,000,
and capable of accommodating 800 guests, was des-
troyed, and with it also the Marvin House. The Marvin
House is rebuilt, but coming down from the depot the
ruins of the United States are still seen. The old Csngress
Hall, valued at $300,000, and capable of accommodating
800 persons, was burned in the latter part of June, 1866.
The Columbian Hotel, valued at $50,000, was burned Au-
gust, 1866. It has been rebuilt. No litres have been lost
at these fires ; but the people of the lown have been ad-
monished of the necessity of an efficient fire department,
and have established one.

THE BOUTINE OF SARATOGA LIFE.

For a lady : rise and dress ; go down to the spring ; drink
to the music of the band ; walk around the park ; bow to
gentlemen and chat a little ; drink again ; breakfast ; see
who comes in on the train; take a siesta; walk in the
parlors ; bow to gentlemen ; have a little small-talk with
gentlemen ; have some gossip with ladies ; dress for din-

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

ner ; take dinner, an Lour and a half; sit in the grounds
and hear the music of the band ; ride to the lake ; see who
comes by the evening train ; dress for tea ; get tea ; dress
for the hop ; attend the hop ; chat awhile in the parlors and
listen to a song from some guest ; go to bed. Varied by
croquet ; the ladies' bowling alley ; visit to the Indian en-
campment ; other springs ; the grand ball once a week or
oftencr ; a performance now and then at the Opera-House ;
and the Races. For a gentleman : smoking on the stoop,
billiards, euchre, and the bar, to vary a similar routine.
For some, a night at the gambling-houses — Morrissey's, on
Matilda street, with open doors and brilliant lights, and
Hill's and Hazelboom's, near the Union Hotel grounds.

SYRACTJSE-SALT SPTilNGS.

The salt springs, at Lake Onondaga, at the head of
which (where Onondaga Creek comes in) the city of Syra-
cuse is situated, have been known to the pale-faced race
since the middle of the seventeenth century, and are the
most valuable in the country, furnishing half the domestic
supply. The productive springs are in great part found
in the marshy lands surrounding the lake, which is an
uninteresting sheet of water, 6 miles long and 1 wide, lying
directly upon the side of the Central Railway. A stratum
of marl, 3 to 12 feet thick, underlaid by a marly clay,
forms an impervious barrier between the water raised from
the wells and that of the lake. Welh are sunk or bored
in the lowlands around the lake to various depths, from
200 to 300 feet, and from these the salt water is forced
up by pumps into the reservoirs from which the evapo-
rating works are supplied.

There are, in the vicinity of the salt-works, and easily

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

readied by horse-cars from the city, several saline springs
wlioso waters are very popular among the Syracusans,
and are growing in favor elsewhere. Occasional visitors
delayed over a train seldom fail to drink of the Excelsior,
which is, moreover, to be had " bottled" at many towns
and villages in Central New- York.

Syracuse may be reached by Hudson River steamboat or
rail, and New- York Central Railway direct, 300 miles from
New- York, first-class fare by mil, $0.25. At Oswego,
35 miles north of Syracuse, by Syracuse and Oswego Kail-
way, fare $1.25, there have been a number of small
sulphur springs discovered within 4 years, on the banks
of the Oswego River. The lake view, (Ontario,) from the
Pier at Oswego, will repay a visitor for his trouble in look-
ing for it.

LEBANON-THEBMAL SPRINGS.

The principal, if not the only, thermal springs in the
State of New- York are at New-Lebanon, in Columbia
county. There is a great variety of routes : the quickest,
by Harlem and Western (Boston and Albany) Railways to
Canaan Station, whence stage 5 miles to Columbia Hall, a
first-class, excellent hotel, within the grounds of which are
the springs. The water holds a permanent temperature of
73 degrees Fahrenheit, and is abundant enough to work
a mill. The village of New-Lebanon, or the celebrated
Shaker settlement, founded by the disciples of Ann Lee a
century ago, is 2 miles from the springs, and is a i)oint of
great interest to the visitors there, especially on Sunday
when their singular forms of worship may be witnessed.
This is the most perfectly arranged and constituted of the
18 Shaker communities, and here the hierarchy of the
" Millennial Church" reside. The ride thither is charming,

springs

•acusans,

visitors

CELSIOR,

ly towns

tnboat or
iles from
Oswego,
?go Kail-
of small
le banks
from tlie
3 in look-

ll". iC

Ts in tlie
Columbia
quickest,
ilways to
a Hall, a
vliicli are
jrature of
. to work
elebrated
Lnn Lee a
I point of
Sunday
dtncssed,
ied of tbe
ly of the
jliarming

c»

■l

ill

i' i

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

the society in summer at the Columbia Hall very select,
aiid the whole region one of the most quietly delightful,
Sabbath-like" retreats to be found. Pittsfield and Williams-
town (see articles on Williamstown and Housatonio
Valley) are about 25 miles distant from the springs.

SULFHUB SFBINGS.

The sulphur waters of the State are found especially at
Clifton, Avon, Richfield, Sharon, Columbia, (town of Stock-
port,) Massena, and Chittenango.

One of the most recently popularized of these resorts is

Columbia. — There are 3 springs which together bear this
name, bubbling up in meadow-land, just in view of the Cat-
skills and the Hudson-, in the town of Stockport, Columbia
county, 4 miles from Hudson. Mr. Charles B. Nash open-
ed the hotel here in 1854, since which time the place has
been steadily growing in public favor. Hudson River Rail-
way, or boat, to Hudson, 125 miles from New- York City.

Sharon is one of the most curious watering-places in the
State, owing to the existence of 5 different kinds of springs
clustered closely together. These are respectively white sul-
phur, magnesia, (these two the principal ones,) blue sulphur,
chalybeate, and pure water. The village and the springs
lie in a ravine 900 feet above the valley of the Mohawk,
distant 10 miles (stage over plank-road) from Palatine
Bridge, a station 201 miles from New- York City, on the
Central Railway. The spring waters tumble over a ledge
of perpendicular rocks, with a descent of some 65 feet, in
sufficient volume and force to turn a mill. The magnesia
and the sulphur springs much resemble the White Sul-
phur of Virginia.

The famous Cherry Valley, of Revolutionary memory,
is in the vicinity of Sharon Springs, accessible also from

SPEINGS AND FALLS.

r Ifi

I 1/

Palatine Bridge, and from Canajoliarie, on the Erie Canal,
from which it lies about 26 miles in a south-west direction.
Otsego Lake and Cooperstown, famous as the home of the
late Fenimore Cooper, the novelist, are also near by. Prin-
cipal hotel at Sharon, the Pavilion, built in 1835, a first-
class, excellent house.

Richfield. — Twenty-two miles west of Sharon is the
village of Richfield Springs, half-way between the Mohawk
Valley and Cooperstown, (Otsego Lake,) upon a narrow plain
near the head of Canaderaja or Schuyler's Lake. The tour-
ist from New-Y brk City will take the river to Albany as be-
fore, and the Central Railway to Herkimer, 81 miles irom
Albany, 227 miles from New-York. The Spring House is
the principal hotel, and the springs are situate within its
limits. The pretty lake near by affords excellent fishing and
lovely roads for driving or sauntering ;. and Otsego, v/ith
its memories of Cooper, besides Cherry Valley, is within a
few miles' ride.

Clifton. — The Clifton Spa House was erected as a dis-
pensary in 1806, when the springs, then gushing out on
the borders of a rough marsh and tangled forest, were
visited by invalids from the surrounding country. For 50
years these waters have been famous for their cure of bil-
ious and cutaneous disorders ; and yet it is only since 1845,
that they have been much known beyond the region of
Central New- York. They are now one of the most popu-
lar watering-places, perhaps the most so, on the Central
Railway. Location, 212 miles from Albany, on the " old
(or * Auburn') road," from Syracuse to Rochester by way of
Auburn and Geneva. Passengers going west by the chief
trains of the Central Railway are generally obliged to
change cars at Syracuse — a good opportunity to stop at
Onondaga Lake. (See article entitled Sybacusb Salt

SPRINGS AND FALLS,

Irie Canal,
, direction,
mie of tTiG
by. Prin-
35, a first-

Ton is tlie
le T^Ioliawk
arrow plain
Tlie tour-
Lbanyasbe-
miles from
ng House is
,e within its
tfisliingand
Otsego, with
■^ is within a

:tocL as a dis-
hing out on
forest, were

itry. For 5^
r cure of hil-
ly since 1845,
the region of
le most popu-
1 the Central
•, on the " old
sterhywayof
3t by the chief
Uy obliged to
lityto stop at
rRACTJSB Salt

Springs.) Passengers going cast also generally leave the
chief trains at Rochester, as the most direct route is
through Lyons and Clyde, to the north, and the fast
.through-trains take this branch route in preference to the
Auburn Road. The fare on the New- York Central Railway
for any distance, through or way, is always 3 cents pel
mile.

iS.VON is a quiet, beautiful resort, situated on that branch,.
cr the Erie Railway which connects Rochester with the
main road at Corning, a 5 hours' ride. Avon is 20 miles from
Rochester, which is 375 from New- York by the Central
Road. Passengers from New- York City by the Erie need
to buy tickets for Rochester, as the competition makes
the fare to that point, though it is further, cheaper than
the fare to Corning or Avon. Change cars at Corning.
By the Central Road the passenger comes from Albany to
Rochester, and riding a half-mile in State street car„ from
the Central to the Erie depot, takes Erie cars for Avon.
The regular fare would be $7.90 to Rochester, (by Central,)
and $2.50 more to Avon, from New- York ; but the summer
competition always reduces this to about $5 or $6 in all,
if the Erie route or the Hudson River boat be taken. The
tourist bound for Avon may advantageously stop on his
way to visit the three falls of the Genesee at Rochester.
(See article on Genesee Falls.) Knickerbocker Hall ia
the chief hotel.

There are two springs a mile or less west of the village.
Carriages always in waiting at the trains.

Massena Springs.— The Massena group of springs, of
which the Saint Regis is the principal, are situated on
the verge of the Raquette River, (a rapid and beautiful
stream which rises in the centre of the Adirondack region,
and empties into the Saint Lawrence, opposite Cornwall

.26

SPKINGS AND FALLS.

>. .

! I

Ilsland,) and are within 5 miles of the celebrated Long
-Sault Rapids. The springs belong to the sulphur class,
and, it is said, their efficacy was discovered by the natives,
who observed that the animals of the neighboring
woods used persistently to come to drink their health-
giving draughts.

Persons leaving New- York by the afternoon express
train on the Harlem Railway arrive in Albany in time to
connect with the night train on the Central Railway, with
sleeping-cars attached, and without change to Watertown,
where sufficient time is allowed for breakfast ; then pro-
ceeding, arrive at Potsdam Junction about noon. Those
who dislike night travel can take the 7.30 morning express
train on the Hudson River Railway, and go through to
Watertown ma Central and Rome and Watertown Rail-
ways, remain over night at Watertown, (this is one of the
most charming little towns in the State,) and take the
morning train for the springs as above mentionod. An-
other very delightful trip may be arranged thus : Take
morning boat on Hudson River for Albany, and railway to
Saratoga; on leaving Saratoga, take the Saratoga and
Whitehall Railway for Moreau Station, connecting with
^^tage for Caldwell's, at the foot of Lake Ploricon. The
steamer leaves Caldwell's every morning for the upper
end of the lake, connecting with morning boats on Lake
Champlain, and arriving at Rouse's Point same evening.
Sleep on the boat and take early train for Potsdam June
tion, where carriages will be found in waiting to convey
passengers to the springs. The tourist by this route passes
through some of the most picturesque and beautiful sce-
nery in the country. A more rapid trip may be made by
taking the mornr g express trains from New- York, con-
necting with night boats on Lake Champlain, and arriving

ited Long
)hur class,
le natives,
dgliboring
sir liealth-

n express
in time to
Iway, with
i^atertown,
then pro-
m. Those
ng express
lirough to
town Rail-
one of the
d take the
on 3d. An-
us : Take
railway to
ratoga and
cting with
icon. The
the upper
ts on Lake
e evening,
dam June
to convey
'oute passes
■autiful sce-
te made by
-York, con-
nd arriving

-'r::W- :':'":''-'! -'■"'-

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

at Rouse's Point in time to take morning train for Brasher
Falls and stage to the springs.

Travelers leaving Boston by the 5 p.m. express train on
the Vermont and Canada, and Vermont, Central and Sulli-
van Railways, go through without change of cars to Rouse's
Point, connecting with morning train on the northern
(Ogdensburgh) Railway for Potsdam Junction or Brasher
Falls.

At the springs there is a lively little village, in which
the United States Hotel, Messrs. Crocker & Co. proprietors,
affords every convenience necessary to travelers.

Chittenango. — The village of Chittenango, in Madison
county, lies on the banks of the Erie Canal, at the entrance
to the deep, narrow valley through which the Chittenango
Creek, the outlet of Cazenovia Lake, makes its way towards
the immense plain that extends from Syracuse to Rome,
and over which it flows to Oneida Lake, 8 miles distant.
A. long mile up the valley from the village, near the east-
ern bank of the stream, gush out, from a shelving ledge
of rocks, the celebrated sulphureous fountains. Along
that mile, the hills rise high on each side of the narrow
valley, and for a considerable distance the road traverses
an oozy swamp, in the midst of which is a small edifice
covering the more ancient mineral fountain in that region,
known as Yates's Spring. It is now but little visited.
There are both sulphur and iron springs, both pronounced
by geologists to be the finest in the State. Invalids are
much benefited by the baths, under the immediate charge
of a physician of high standing and many years' practice,
first in Cincinnati and afterward in New- York, in both
places gaining an enviable reputation in the profession.
The hotels and cottages (there are 4 of the latter) will
accommodate 100 boarders, with an excellent table, good

SPEINGS AND FALLS.

beds, plenty of amusements in tlie way of bowling, bil-
liards, and croquet. The whole establishment presents
a tidy and inviting appearance quite refreshing. The
country for miles around abounds in fine scenery, ex-
cellent roads, and good fishing.

The best route to this place is by the People's Line of
steamers, leaving Pier 41, Nortli River, at 6 p.m., reach-
ing Albany in time for breakfast. The train leaves on the
New- York Central Railway at 7 o'clock, arriving at Chit-
tenango station at 12 o'clock, where there are stages in
readiness on the arrival of each train to convey passengers
to the hotel, where a sumptuous dinner, much needed,
will be ready.

Cherky Valley. — Not far from Sharon Springs is
Cherry Valley, at the head of the valley of Cherry Valley
Creek. It Is a small village, in the interesting township
of the same name, and has long been well known as the
seat of a fine young ladies' academy, the oldest west of
Schenectady. The first principal of the institution was
the famous Rev. Solomon Spaulding, whose harmless anti-
quarian, aboriginal nc vel, written for his own amusement
solely, was made the basis of that great fraud — the Book
of Mormon. Mount Independence, near the centre of the
township, is a rocky eminence 2000 feet above the sea.
Tekaharanea Falls, 160 feet high, are to be seen on a small
creek near by. The sulphur springs, in the vicinity of
these falls, are a place of some resort. A new hotel is to
be erected this summer, with bath-houses, etc., in the best
style of summer resorts. Board may be had at $5 per
week. An additional attraction is to be enjoyed in the
brine springs, which are near by, in the village called Salt
Springs ville. Route, same as to Sharon.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

bowling-, bil-
ent presents
shing. The
scenery, ex-

:)le's Line of
P.M., reach-
eaves on the
mg at Chit-
re stages in
Y passengers
uch needed,

Springs is
lerry Valley
ig township
nown as the
est west of
itution was
rmless anti-
amusement
— the Book
ntre of the
ve the sea.
on a small
vicinity of
hotel is to
in the best
at $5 per
yed in the
called Salt

•■*

OAK OBCHABD ACID SPBINOS.

The Oak Orchard Acid Springs are situated about 13
miles north-west of Batavia, N. Y., in the town of Ala-
bama, on Oak Orchard Creek. Railway station, Batavia,
accessible either by the Erie or the Central road. These
curious springs are nine in number, all located within a cir-
cle 50 rods in diameter, three of them issuing from a mound
within 10 feet of each other. In no two of them is the water
alike. They are found, by analysis, to contain, besides other
mineral substances, a quantity of free sulphuric acid. Large
quantities of the water are bottled and sold. These are
the principal acid springs in the State of New- York.

VALLONIA SPBINOS.

A little east of the centre of Broome county, New- York,
lies the postal village of Valionia Springs, in the town-
ship of Colesville. It takes its name from the valuable
mineral waters which render the place an excellent resort
for persons desiring health, country life, and quiet. The
charming Susquehanna River is but one mile distant, the
town lying upon the uplands 400 to 700 feet above its val-
ley. The scenery of the surrounding country is wild and
romantic, and there is abundance of game and fish to de-
light visitors with more material preferences.

Hotel, the Spring House, J. B. Sands, proprietor.
Route from Albany, via morning train on the Albany and
Susquehanna Railway, 114 miles, to Alton, thence by
stage to the house.

BALLSTON SPA, NEW-YOBK.

The village of Ballston Spa lies about 7 miles south-
west from the great Saratoga Springs. Its mineral

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

springs, which alone make the place a popular resort,
comprise the Sans Souci, Low's Park, the New and the
Old Washington, and the Sulphur. With the exception
of the Idst-named, these evidently belong to the same class
with the Saratoga group. They may bo called acidulo-
Baline, or carbonated saline waters.

The Sans Souci Hotel, Mr. George Smith, proprietor,
is a first-class, large house, well-known and popular.

THE mmUl SPRIXGS OF YERM05T.

The State of Vermont boasts a number of fine mineral
Springs, most of them not very satisfactorily analyzed,
and in the north-western corner. For reference to the
oldest of the popular springs in the State, those at Claren-
don, see sketch of the Rutland and Burlington Rail-
way. Public interest has of late been centring in the com-
paratively new springs in the towns of Sheldon and High-
gate, and on Alburg Bay, close to the Canada and Lake
Champlain borders. There are four separate tracts of land
occupied with these.

HISSISQTTOI. 1

The Missisquoi Springs are situated about 10 miles in a
north-easterly direction from Saint Alban's, Vermont, which
is the nearest point of railway communication, and 2 miles
north of the village of Sheldon. Their name is taken
from the beautiful wdnding Missisquoi River, which flows
immediately in front of them. They are 13 in number.

SrUINGS AND FALLS.

►pular resort,
New and the
the exception
he same class
ailed acidulo-

h, proprietor,
popular.

ST.

f fine mineral
rily analyzed,
rence to the
ose at Claren-
NGTON Rail-
g in the com-
•n and High-
a and Lake
racts of land

miles in a
pnont, which

and 2 miles
le is taken
diich flows

1 in number,

all within the space of an acre of land, and all possessed,
apparently, of difforent mineral qualities, having distinc-
tive tastes and colors, and, so far as tried, proving unlike
in effect. One spring is cathartic, although the Missis-
quoi is not, but is a diuretic ; another is ottensive to the
taste and smell, while the chief one is usually free from
all unpleasant odor, and its mineral properties are scarcely
perceptible, being only known by its effects. This spring
is now called the Missisquoi, and has been known to the
few in the immediate neighborhood, for many years, as
affording a remedy for cutaneous diseases, although it is
only within the last few years that it has risen rapidly in
public estimation. The other springs, with a single excep-
tion, have been discovered lately. One, the cathartic, is
already proving a remedial agent for dyspepsia and dis-
eases of the liver. The specific virtues and uses of the
others remain for time to develop. The character of the
soil around the springs is peculiar, there being a fine and
extensive vein of fuller's earth passing through them,
while at the bottom of the Missisquoi are deposits of mi-
neral substances, consisting principally of pyrites and
quartz. This spring is from 4 to 5 feet deep, and the
water rises in small jets through the minute apertures of
a white marble-like hard-pan. Its flow is uniform, neither
increasing by rains nor diminishing in droughts. The
iMissisquoi is the only one of the group that has been ana-
lyzed.

Visitors for Missisquoi take the Montreal train from
Burlington and stop at Saint Alban's, where they may
either remain at the Weldon House, (the finest hotel in
Northern Vermont, $3.50 per day,) or take stage 10 miles
for (Wright's) Central Hotel, ($2.50 to $3 per day,) at
Sheldon. This is in close contiguity to the Vermont
Spring, and not very far from the Highgate.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

VEBMONT SFBING.

This spring? is on the southerly bank of the Missisquoi
River, about three fourths of a mile from the village of
Sheldon, and 3 miles above the Missisquoi Spring. The
side-hill rising above the spring is shaded with a beautiful
grove of second-growth maple, birch, poplar, and hemlock,
and forms one of the chief attractions of the immediate
locality. A neat house has been built over the spring,
and all necessary appliances are provided for bottling the
water after the most approved manner. The curative
powers are mostly in the direction of cutaneous diseases.
Besides the hotel mentioned above at Sheldon, the farm-
houses in the vicinity afford very pleasant accommodations
at $8 or $10 to $12 per week, the latter price being the
hotel terms. The region is comparatively new and unfa-
miliar at present, but more public houses are to be erected
Bpeedily.

HIOHGATE SPEINQ

Is in the western part of the township of Highgate,
13 miles from Saint Alban's, and about 1 mile be-
low the Missisquoi Spring, on the river of that name.
The railway from Saint Alban's to Montreal passes between
the hotel and the spring-house. The Franklin House,
large and commodious, is a delightful summer retreat,
(terms, $2.50 to $3 per day.) In the rear of the hotel,
on a gentle eminence, is a grove of native trees, which
add greatly to the beauty of the place.

The nearest telegraph station for these three localities
is at Saint Alban's.

ALBUBG SPBINQ.

The springs thus far described are located upon the
Missisquoi River, 10 to 13 miles inland from Lake Cham-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ho Missisquoi
ho village of
Spring. The
ith a beautiful
and hemlock,
he immediate
3r the spring,
r bottling the
The curative
leous diseases,
don, the farm-
commodations
[•ice being the
new and unfa-
e to be erected

I of Highgate,

Lt 1 mile be-

»f that name.

passes between

inklin House,

imer retreat,

of the hotel,

trees, which

plain. Tho Alburn Spring is at Albiirg Bay, standing
upon a \ fiiiiiHula between the Canada line, Mis.siwiuoi
Bay, and tlie Uicluilieu or Sorel Riv(T, (Clianii)luiii outlet,)
opposite Grand Isle in tho lake. There is a fine hotel
' hero, wliicli will bo ready for visitors this sununer, Juno
1st, but will hereafter be open all tho year round. The
proprietor, Mr. 11. J. Severance, may be addressed at " Al-
burg Springs, Grand Isle county, Vermont." Telegraph
Station at tho railway station, (same name,) one mile from
the hotel. Rooms for 150 guests ; prices this summer, $8
to $20 per week, $1.50 to $3.50 per day. Besides tho
spring, tho vicinity is very attractive to tourists, the lake
and mountain scenery, particularly the drives along
Champlain, being very fine. Phillipsburg and Highgate
9xe 6 miles distant, and the Canada line 8 miles.

How Reached. — The route by which tourists may
reach all these springs, is, from New- York, by rail or
Steamboat to Troy, thence by Troy and Boston, Rutland
and Washington, and Vermont Central to tho stations as
given. At Essex Junction, 5 miles north of Burlington,
passengers must see to it for themselves that they are on
Jthe right route, as the well-known Vermont Railway dis-
|a,greements render the railway people very unsatisfactory

their directions.

iree localities

bed upon the
Lake Cham-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

THE imUl SPRINGS OF PENXSYLYAXIA.

in, ■

CBESSON.

Cresson is situated in Cambria county, Pa., on tlio
line of tlie Pennsylvania Central Railway, 102 miles from
Pittsburg, 254 from Philadelphia, 328 from Ne\v^-York,
and 236 from Baltimore. It is nearly at the summit of the
Alleghany water-shed, (en the western slope,) and is 2400
feet above the sea level. A more commanding situation
for the hotel might have been chosen than its present one
on the summit ; but the present one was selected on ac-
count of coiivenience to the railway. The property is
owned and controlled by the Cresson Springs Company,
and consists of about 300 acres, neatly fenced in from the
surrounding wilderness. The improvements are, one large,
comfortable hotel, the Mountain House, south of the rail-
way, and a smaller one on the north ; also 17 stylish cot-
tages, built on the mountain side, owned principally by
wealthy persons from Pittsburg, Philadelphia, Steuben-
ville, etc. These houses, all together, will accommodate
about 500 guests, and are usually well patronized, cliiefly
from the West. Of the salubrity of the climate there can
be no question. The benefit which invalids receive from
a few days* residence is wonderful. The clearness, purity,
and bracing nature of the air are noticed at once. The
thermometer rarely reaches 75° in the hottest part of the
hottest days of summer. The nights are always cool, and
guests sleep under blankets the entire season. Indeed,
last season, except during one week, fires were quite wel-
come both night and morning. The drives around the
place are excellent, and abound with fine scenery. Plank
walks radiate in all directions, to most enchanting walks.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

JSYLYASIA.

y, Pa., on tlio
102 miles from
•om Ne^y-York,
e summit of tlie
pe,) and is 2400
inding situation
1 its present one
I selected on ac-
rhe property is
•rings Company,
iced in from the
ts are, one large,
outli of the rail-
17 stylish cot-
principally by
slphia, Steuben-
Lll accommodate
tronized, cliiefly
imate there can
ids receive from
earness, purity,
L at once. The
test part of the
ilways cool, and
eason. Indeed,
were quite wel-
^ves around the
icenery. Plank
shanting walks.

The usual amusements common to summer resorts, bil-
liards, ten-pins, etc., etc., may be indulged in, and a fine
livery-stable is attached to the Mountain House.

There are 7 springs of different kinds within easy walk-
ing distance of the hotel. The chief one, which lies about
a quarter of a mile back, is of a chalybeate nature, and its
beneficial effects have been experienced by many. This
spring is situated on the Old Alleghany (State) Postage
Railway, or rather on the i uins of it. This work may be
considered as an object of curiosity, showing, as it does,
what an ancient railroad was. It was purchased by the
Pennsylvania Railway Company in 1854, and abandoned
the next vear. As it now remains, it looks like a victim
to the progressiveness of our age.

Its accessibility makes Cresson one of the most desirable
of resorts, as it is on the great short line route botween
the East and the West, with trains running to all points,
indeed, to all the principal cities, without change of cars.
For instance, there is no change between Cresson and
New- York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Pittsburg, Cincin-
nati, and Chicago, and but one to Clevelr nd. Thus the
• merchant from these places, bound East, can bring his
family here, stop a few days, then leave them, and pursue
I his journey further; when his business has been trins-
j acted, return to Cresson, and escort his brood westward.
[Hundreds of merchants do this yearly.

The Pennsylvania Railway Company is very obliging

I to guests at Cresson, and special trains are lurnished at a

I Bmall cost, to persons wishing to view carefully the mag-

|nificent scenery along this part of the road — the finest,

save that of the Baltimore and Ohio, in the East. The

elegant station-house at Cresson serves the double purpose

of accommodating the people of the hotels and the passen-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

vif

gers from a branch railway, wliicli lias its terminus at tli
place, (tlie Ebensburg and Cresson branch.)

Withhi 6 or 7 miles good trout-fishing may be had ; anc
in its season, there is a fair show of game. Several yeai
ago, there was fine shooting within a short distance, bu
the hundred trains a day on the railway have scared th
game further into the mountains.

Cresson is rapidly improving. This year, the founda
tions of a large brick hotel will be laid, and ere the seasoi
of 18G9 arrives, there will be room for upward of 100(
visitors.

The i)rice of board will be fixed this season at $30 pe
■week, one third being deducted if the visitor rents a cot
tage. The tables are excellently kept. The first house wil
be kept, as usual, by that agreeable gentleman, Mr
George W. Mullin, assisted by his brother, Mr. A. Gordor
Mullin.

CARLISLE AND DOUBLING GAP.]

Carlisle Springs are within a short distance of the vih
lage of Carlisle, Pa., and are much patronized by fami-
lies from Philadelphia and Baltimore, on account of theii
quiet retirement, as well as the excellent accommodations
found there. Doubling Gap Springs are but a few miles
away, near Newville, where pure mountain air and varied
and attractive scenery may be enjoyed to repletion. These
latter springs enjoy rather a local reputation only ; but
there is no lack of interest eitheif in the place or the
society to be found there. Either of the springs named
may be profitably visited by the tourists seeking health or
recreation. Route from New- York City, at 8 a.m., by Mor-
ris and Essex (the more picturesque) or the New-Jersey
Central to Easton, 84 or 72 miles, Eastern Pennsylvania, to

SPPwINGS AND FALLS.

terminus at tliis
ii.)

nay be had ; and,
J. Several years
lort distance, but

have scared the

rear, the founda-

nd ere the season

upward of 1000

3eason at $30 per
isitor rents a cot-
le first house will
gentleman, Mr.
3r, Mr. A. Gordon

GAP.]

Istance of the vil-
Ironized by fami-
account of their
accommodations
but a few miles
in air and varied
repletion. These
iation only ; but
|he place or the
springs named
leeking health or
Lt 8 A.M.,byMo^
tlle New-Jersey
Pennsylvania, to J

Reading, 13G miles, and Lebanon Valley Railways to Harris-
burg, 200 miles ; thence by Cumberland VaHey Railway
to Carlisle, 18 miles, reaching there at about 5 p,:m.

For many years Carlisle was distinguished as being th«
most aristocratic place in a^ the commonwealth of Pennsyl
vania ; but it was rather an aristocracy of intellect than of
wealth. Judge Gibson, late Chief-Justice of the Supremo
Court of the State, resided here. His legal decisions are
to-day regarded with deep reverence by the best legal
minds at the bar. Dickinson College (Methodist) is located
here, and is flourishing under the management of an able
corps of professors. Near the suburbs of the borough are
the beautiful United States barracks, which the rebel
General Lee was magnanimous enough to spare from de-
struction during his invasion into Pennsylvania, on account
of pleasant reminiscences connected therewitli, while he
commanded a cavalry regiment there as an officer of the
United States. It is within easy walliing distance, and is
always a great point of interest to strangers.

BEDFOKD.

Bedford Springs, located one mile from the village of
Bedford, on the Raystown branch of the Juniata, is an at-
tractive place for invalid summer resort. The water con-
tains carbonic acid, sulphate of magnesia, sulphate of lime,
and muriate of soda. Excellent hotel accommodation fo2
visitors.

Route, ma Huntingdon, on the Pennsylvania Central
Railway, 106 miles from Harrisburg, 204 from Phila-
delphia, 151 from Pittsburg ; thence by the Huntingdon
and Broad Top road to Mount Dallas, 44 miles ; thence by
stage, 6 miles.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

I! !

GETTYSBURG.

Since the Katalysine water has come into celebrity as
one of the great mineral beverages of the land, Gettys-
burg must be accounted, oddly enough, among the water-
ing places of interest to the tourist. A new and spacious
hotel is to be opened this season, and certainly there are
attractions of a certain sort at no point in the country
more interesting than at this " high- water mark of the Re-
bellion." The spring, owned by the Lithea Spring As-
sociation, is said to resemble in effect the German Vichy ;
but it is nearly tasteless. It is situated about 2 miles
west of the town.

Route. — From New- York City one may come in one
day, by the route given in the sketch of Carlisle, above,
to Harrisburg ; then along the Susquehanna River on the
Northern Central Railway to Hanover, 46 miles, then by
the Gettysburg Railway, 30 miles.

A day, well employed, will suffice to show the stranger,
at Gettysburg, the battle-field and cemetery, while a
second and third may be spent in visiting the springs and
the several objects of interest \^ Rnd around the village.
The battle was fought on the 1st, 2d, and 3d of July, 1863,
between the Union forces, under General Meade, and the
Confederate army, under General Lee, in which the latter
was vanquished, with a loss in killed, wounded, and pri-
soners, of 23,000 men. The best approach to the battle-
field is that by the Baltimore turnpike, which leads south-
wardly from the village directly to Cemetery Hill, distant
half a mile from the Eagle Hotel. Cemetery Hill forms
the central and most striking feature at Gettysburg. Here
General Howard established his headquarters ; upon this
point the heaviest fire of the enemy was concentrated;

|i is

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ito celebrity as
e land, Gettys-
Long the water-
w and spacious
ainly there are
in the country
mark of the Re-
lea Spring As-
3erman Vichy ;
about 2 miles

y come in one

lrlisle, above,

aa River on the

miles, then by

the stranger,

itery, while a

|lie springs and

nd the village.

of July, 1863,

lleade, and the

Ihich the latter

ided, and pri-

to the battle-

'\i leads south-

|y Hill, distant

sry Hill forms

sburg. Here

|rs; upon this

concentrated ;

and here is most appropriately located the Nation^ 1 Ceme-
tery, where are interred a large number of the Union
soldiers. It was known as Cemetery Hill long before
the battle, the eastern slope of it having been inclosed
and used as the village burying-ground. This should
also be visited by the traveler. The view from the crest
of the hill is open and extended, affording every facility,
with the aid of the accompanying map, for following the
movements of the respective armies. As the inspection of
the cemeteries must be made on foot, the visitor will save
time and labor by following the route here indicated. The
Village Cemetery, sometimes called the Citizens' Cemetery,
in contradistinction to the National or Soldiers' Cemetery,
which adjoins it, is entered through a lofty arched gate-
way from the Baltimore road. Following the main avenue
southward, a short walk brings the visitor to a circular
lot, well-nigh covered with stones, which are to be used in
the construction of a vault. They present an aspect at
once striking and suggestive. They cover the spot se-
lected by General Howard on the morning of the engage-
ment as his headquarters, and here the heaviest fire of the
rebel batteries, numbering nearly 200 guns, was concen-
trated. With wise and kindly forethought, that officer
had ordered the monuments and tomb-stones which sur-
rounded the spot to be taken down, so that while some
were unavoidably injured, comparatively few were destroy-
ed. The marble monumen!; erected to General Gettys, the
founder and early proprietor of Gettysburg, which occupies
a prominent position on the right of the avenue between
the ent 'ance and this lot, is worthy of notice. Standing
on Cemetery Hill, the visitor has the key to the position
of the Union forces during those eventful " three days of
July." Cemetery Hill proper is the termination of the

(1/

i i!'l

Mil!' I

i N

idii

ili

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ridge wliicli runs southward between the roads leading re«
spectively to Taney town and Eminettsburg. The view
from this hill is extensive and varied. Westward the
horizon is hounded by the long range of the South Moun-
tain, beyond which lie Chambersburg and Ilagerstown.
In the same direction, a little to the right, and rather more
than a mile distant, is the Seminary, near which began the
battle of the 1st, which terminated so disastrously to
Reynolds's corps. From Seminary Ridge, General Lee
opened a furious bombardment of the Union position on
Cemetery Hill. The cemetery is inclosed with a neat
railing. On the gateway are inscribed the names (18 in
number) of the States represented by those buried within.
The monument, the foundation of which was laid Novem-
ber 19th, 18G3, will be completed July 4th, 1868. The de-
signer and contractor is James G. Batterson, of Hartford, Ct.,
and the cost will be $47,000. It will be 60 feet high, and
crowned with a statue of Liberty. At the base of the pe-
destal are four buttresses, surmounted with allegorical
statues, representing War, History, Peace, and Plenty.
The monument occupies the crown of the hill, and around
it, in semi-circular slopes, are ranged the dead, each State
being represented by a separate section. The divisions
between the States are marked by alleys and pathways,
radiating from the monument to the outer circle, the
coffin-rows being divided by continuous granite blocks
about 6 inches high, upon which are inscribed the name
and regiment of each soldier, as far as ascertained. Be-
tween Emettsburg pike and Cemetery Hill lies the scene
of Pickett's bloody and disastrous charge, in which 18,000
men are estimated to have been engaged. Following
Cemetery Ridge, and keeping before him Round Top
Mountain, says the historian of the Army of the Potomac.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ds leading re-

The view

i^estward the

South Moun-

Hagerstown.

d rather more

ich began the

sastrously to

General Lee

a position on

with a neat

names (18 in

)uried within.

5 laid Novem-

368. The de-

• Hartford, Ct.,

eet high, and

ise of the pe-

1 allegorical

and Plenty.

, and around

d, each State

he divisiona

d pathways,

r circle, the

nite blocks

d the name

tained. Be-

s the scene

[vhich 18,000

Following

Round Top

le Potomac.

a short walk will bring the visitor to one of the most in-
teresting spots on this famous battle-field. "This is a
bunch of wood to which a few — it may be a score or two —
of the boldest and bravest that led the van of Pickett's
charging column, on the 2d of July, attained. Thus far the
swelling surge of invasion threw its spray, dashing itself
to pieces on the rocky bulwark of Northern valor. Let us
call this the high- water mark of the Rebellion." Seminary
Ridge, College Ilill, Gulp's Hill, Round Top, and Little
Round Top, are generally visited. Willoughby Run,
where General Buford's cavalry held in check the rebel
column under Hill for nearly two hours, is pointed out

THE MINERAL SPKIXGS OP VIRGINIA.

The hotel charges at these Springs will not exceed $3,
nor be lower than $2.50 per day, and will be about $80 per
month. Excursion tickets, at reduced rates, will be fur-
n'^hed during the summer by the New-Jersey Railway
and Transportation Company, foot of Cortlandt street,
New-York City. ^

Travelers from every portion of the Union can now, by
railway, reach Covington, the present terminus of the
Virginia Central road, about 20 miles distant from the
Wliite Sulphur.

Persons wishing to reach the Springs from the North
and East, as well as those from the South, who pass
through Petersburg or Richmond, should make Staun-
ton, 100 miles east of the Springs, a point in their travel.

Those traveling from the South or South-west have a
continuous chain of railway routes, either by way of
Richmond or by Knoxville, Tenn. Those taking the lat-

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ter route may proce(3d from Knoxville by way of Lynch-
burg to Charlottesville, wnere they take the cars on the
Central road by way of Staunton to Covington ; or, if they
prefer, they may leave the cars at Bonsack's, and proceed
in stage-coaches, about 03 miles, to the White Sulphur.

Persons traveling from the West ought either to take
the cars at Memphis and proceed by way of Knoxville, or
come by way of the Baltimore and Ohio road to Washing-
ton, and thence by Staunton to Covington. On either of
these routes, after leaving the railway, the traveler will
find excellent stage-coaches to convey him without delay,
over well-ffraded roads and amidst beautiful mountain
scenery, to the Springs.

As soon as the Covington and Ohio road, which connects
with the Virginia Central, is completed to the White Sul-
phur, which will soon be the case, there will be continuous
railway routes to the Springs from every great section of
our country. Even now there is great expedition in the
travel, there being but 20 miles of necessary staging to
reach them from any quarter. Travelers at this time
leaving Baltimore, Washington, or Richmond in the
morning, can, with comfort, arrive at the White Sulphur
to breakfast the following morning, or at. a much earlier
hour if it were desired.

THE VIRGINIA SFBINGS.

EOUTES.

Travelers to any of the principal springs in the moun-
tains of Virginia, either from the North, East, or West,
to avail themselves most largely of railway facilities, must
necessarily make Staunton a point in their journey.

From Staunton, the Rockbridge and Bath Alum, the
Warm, Hot, Healing, White Sulphur, Salt, and Red Sul-

SPBINGS AND PALLS.

pbnr Springs, are conveniently reached by railway, with
small amount of sta;?in^, and in the order in which they
are here sot down. The Sweet, and Red Sweet (now called
the Sweet Chalybeate) Springs are on the same general
route, and are reached by a detour of 17 miles from the
White Sulphur.

The Yellow, the Montgomery White, the Alleghany,
Coyner's, and Blue Ridge Springs, are reached by the
traveler going east on the Virginia and Tennessee Rail,
way, in the order in which they are here enumerated.

SWEET CHALYBEATE SmiNGS.

These springs, so well known to the public who have
been in the habit of visiting the Virginia springs, are situa-
ted on the southern border of Alleghany county, 1 *nile
west of the Old Sweet Springs, and IG south-east he
Greenbrier White Sulphur. They are 20 miles from Co-
vington, the present terminus of the Virginia Central Rail-
way, with which they are connected by a good road, over
which stage-coaches run daily through the summer season.

They are 48 miles west from Bonsack's Depot, on the Vir-
ginia and Tennessee Railway, and a like distance from Sa-
lem Depot, on the same road. Between these depots and the
springs, good coaches run daily during the watering season.

These springs were formerly known by the name of the
"Red Sweet," from their abundant red deposit of ferru-
ginous matter, and their general resemblance to the waters
of the Old Sweet Springs.

But many of the friends of the waters have advised that
they be called Sweet Chalybeate Springs, with a view of
enabling the public more clearly to distinguish between
them and the " Old Sweet," which are but 1 mile distant.

There is thought to be a propriety in such a change of

SrniXGS AND PALLS.

railway, witli
n which they
it (now called
iamo general
ilea from the

B Alleghany,
died by tho
nnessee Rail,
merated.

lie who have
iga, are situa-
mnty, 1 mile
h-east he
iles from Co-
Central Rail-
)d road, over
nmer season.
>t, on the Vir-
nce from Sa-

pots and the
ering season.

name of the
)sit of ferru-
;o the waters

advised that
th a view of
lish between
mile distant,
a change of

J;.

name, not only becaiwo it will enable tho distant public
and straugL'i's in our mountains to <listinguish more readily
between the two springs, which, altliough similar in tho
character of their waters in some respects, ditlbr essentially
in some others, and especially in refenmco to tho relative
amount of iron contained in each. In these springs, a very
large relative amount of that ingredient prevails ; there
is thought to be a peculiar propriety in designating them
Sweet Chalybeate, inasmuch as the name chalybeate bet-
ter conforms to a correct nomenclature of calling waters
after the leading and most efficient ingredients in their
composition.

It would seem desirable, indeed, that a general reforma-
tion should take place in the naming of our mineral foun-
tains, by which their names would more meaningly and
clearly convey correct ideas of their medicinal qualities.
This, while it would conform to the demands of modern
chemistry, at the same time would save the stranger and
the uninitiated from the common mistake of confounding
waters of dissimilar chemical and medicinal character ;
and this, mainly, in consequence of the unmeaning but
often similar names which they bear.

As samples of this inconvenience, fruitful of error, it may
be mentioned that we have perhaps a score of sulphur
waters in the State, designated as "White ;" several under
the initiatory cognomen of " Blue," " Gray," and " Black ;"
and three springs in this immediate region, of which this
is one, whose distinctive designation is "Red." These
facts, which might be extensively multiplied, are cited to
show the reasonableness, nay, the importance, of correcting
the nomenclature of our springs, and in apology for the
desire, that these heretofore known as the Red Sweet may
hereafter be known as the Sweet Chalybeate.

"P >p,i^«Tl'.vv**<' ww-w-^'^PF"— 11^7 i_^Pw^.(m^n^|p^^w)-"-»wij.(iJi J"

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

( '

The property upon which these springs are situated wai
purchasod many years ago by a gentleman of South-Care
Ijna, in reference to its medicinal waters, and the valuable
land that surrounds them. Subsequently, it was ownec
and considerably improved by Mr. Philip Rodgers, who foi
many years kept the old Sweet Springs. In 1845, the pro^
perty came into the possession of John R. Sampson, Esq.,!
who made valuable additions to the improvements. Itl
was afterward owned and kept with great reputation as a
watering-place for several years by Mr. C. Bias. The pre-
sent owner purchased the property in 1862. The spring
buildings, now in good repair, are ample for the accommo-
dation of not less than 400 persons.

Routes. — From any point North or West, ma Washing-
ton, Gordonsville. Staunton, to Covington, by rail ; thence
by a line of stage-coaches 20 miles to the springs.

Travelers from the South-west, on the Virginia and
Tennessee Railway, have their choice of pursidng the
railway line by way of Lynchburg to Covington, or of
leaving the cars at Salem or Bonsack's, and taking stage-
coaches 40 miles across the mountains to the springs.

Those traveling from the South, ma Petersburg or Rich-
mond, have an option to pass up the Central Railway to
Covington, or to take the South Side Railway to Lynch-
burg, and the Virginia and Tennessee Railway to Bon-
sack's or Salem, and thence stage-coaches to the springs.

There are daily communications by stage between these
springs and the White Sulphur, and also with the Alum,
Healing, Hot, and Warm Springs.

SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS.

The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are about
24 miles south from the White Sulphur, in Monroe county,

_£:

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

are situated was
1 of South-Caro-
ind the valuable
y, it \ias owned
lodgers, who fop
[n 1845, the pro-
Sampson, Esq.,
provements. It
reputation as a
Bias. The pre-
62. The spring
)r the accommo-

it, via Washing-
by rail ; thence
prings.

3 Virginia and
pursidng the
vington, or of
d taking stage-
e springs,
•sburg or Rich-
ral Railway to
ay to Lynch-
Iway to Bon-
tlie springs,
between these
[ith the Alum,

)er, are about
)nroe county,

' and near Union county-seat. They are surrounded by
mountains : Peter's Mountain south and east, the Allegha-
ny to the north, and Swope's Mountain to the west, near
the base of which are the springs themselves. Messrs.
Erskine and Caruthers own the property, and can accom-
modate 350 guests.

The Salt Sulphur was discovered in consequence of hav-
ing been observed as a favorite " lick" for deer and buffa-
loes, by Mr. Erwin Benson, in 1805. It is inclosed in a
marble reservoir two feet square and two feet ten inches
deep, with a pavilion.

The Iodine or New Spring was discovered by the pro-
prietors in 1838, while opening a drain for the water of the
first. Owing to a large deposit of sulphur, in combination
with some peculiar 'organic matter which floats as a pel-
licle on the surface, this water is less limpid than that of
the Salt. Under a strong sun it occasionally deposits a
beautiful pink sediment.

The Upper or Old Spring was discovered by Mr. Alex-
• ander Hutcherson, in 1803, while searching for salt water
on Indian Creek. The water of this is now almost ex-
clusively used for the baths, having been superseded as a
drink by the Salt Sulphur proper.

RED SULPHUR.

The Red Sulphur Springs are in the southern part of
Monroe county, 42 miles from the White Sulphur, 17 from
the Salt, 39 from the Sweet, and 32 from the Blue Sulphur
Springs. They have been famous for more than fifty
years, and have accommodations for 350 guests.

A few miles to the south-west is a recently improved
sulphur spring on New River, Giles county. The waters,
not yet. analyzed, belong to the sulphur class. The ao-

I !

! I

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

commodations are good, and the vicinity is liiglily attraj
live and romantic. The celebrated Salt Pond is near b]
Route, stage from Newborn or Christiansburg, on the Vi^
ginia and Tennessee Railway, or from the Red, Salt, o|
Montgomery White Sulphur Springs.

SWEET SPRINGS.

The sweet springs are in the eastern part of Monro^
county, 17 miles south-east of the White Sulphur, and 2S
east of the Salt Sulphur ; discovered, 1764 ; the first ii
this section of the State. Analyzed in 1774 by Bishop
Madison, President of William and Mary College. The
location is in a beautiful valley, 5 miles long, by a half
mile to three fourths wide ; bounded on the north by the
Alleghanies, and south by the Sweet Spring Mountain.
Accommodations for 600 to 700 guests, and these are to be
doubled soon. Contents, salt, iron, and earth.

HOT SPRINGS.

The Hot Springs are in Bath county, 35 miles north-
east of the White Sulphur, and 21 west of Millborough
Depot. There are six baths, at different temperatures,
from 100° to 106° of heat. In each of these, arrangements
are made for the sweat, plunge, or douche bath.

"WARM SPRINGS.

The Warm Springs are situated in a narrow valley at
the western base of the mountain bearing their name, in
Bath county, 50 miles west of Staunton, and 5 miles north-
east of the Hot Springs. Their reputation is 80 yearg
old and more. They were early in great favor, and were
frequented before any other in the State but the Sweet
Springs were known.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

is highly attrac.
Pond is near by.
sburof, on the Vir-
the Red, Salt, or

I part of Monroe
) Sulphur, and 22
764 ; the first in
1774 by Bishop
y College. The
1 long, by a half
the north by the
pring Mountain,
d these are to be
arth.

85 miles north-
of Millborough
temperatures,
>, arrangements
jatli.

irrow valley at
their name, in
5 miles north-
)n is 80 yearg
avor, and were
Jut the Sweet

HEALING SPRINGS.

Bath county is named for its thermal springs, for which
the chain of valleys which lie at the base of the Warm
Spring ^lountain is so remarkable. This is located in
Falling Spring Valley, the southernmost of the group.
There are three separate fountains here ; two close to each
other, and the third 200 yards distant, in the same ravine.
Uniform temperature, 84° Fahrenheit. They have not
been analyzed. No accommodations were provided here
for a long time, owing to a bitter feud between the par-
ties to whom the tract belonged ; but the great demand of
late for mineral waters has somewhat improved the con-
dition of the place. See the table of Virginia Springs.

ROCKBRIDGE ALTTSI.

Being outside the great "spring circle," this valuable
fountain was long neglected, though known 60 years ago ;
but there are now accommodations for 600 to 800 visitors,
which will probably be much increased by the opening of
the present season. Messrs. Frazier & Randolph are the
proprietors. There are five fountains, each slightly differ-
ing from the other, percolating through a heavy slate-
stone cliff. A chalybeate spring adds attraction to the
place, a few hundred yards from the others.

BATH ALUM.

The Bath Alum Springs are situated near the eastern
base of the same mountain, on the main stage-road from
Staunton to the Warm Springs themselves, 45 miles west
of the former and 5 east of the latter. The grounds have
been improved within 5 years by Mr. John W. Frazier.
The waters fall from a slatestone cliff, 12 or 15 feet high.
Good and extensive accommodations may be had here.

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SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ROCKBRIDGE BATHS.

These are in Rockbridge county, on the stage-road from|
Ijexington to Goshen depot, on the Virginia Central Rail-
way, about midway. Tliere are two baths, and hotel ac-
commodations for 150 to 200 guests.

daggar's spring.

Daggar's Spring is in the extreme north-western corner
of Botetourt county, 30 miles east of the Alleghanies, and
just at the western base of the Garden Mountain, on the
main road from Lynchburg to White Sulphur Springs, by
way of the James River Canal. The Natural Bridge of
Virginia is 19 miles west, by a direct road, and 28 miles
by way of Buchanan, the usual route. The spring takes
its name from its discoverer, who opened the place for a
resort, some 40 years ago. Mr. Shields is the present pro-
prietor, and he finds places for 200 guests, at his popular
hotel. The society here is chiefly local, and most agree-
able. The spring is of the sulphur class. Distance from
the White Sulphur, the Sweet, and the Sweet Chalybeate
Springs, each about 43 miles.

COLD SULPHUR.

This is 7 miles east of Rockbridge Alum, and 2 miles
west of Goshen depot, Rockbridge county, on the Virginia
Central Railway. Accommodations for 100 guests, at Mr.
Leech's hotel.

YARIETY SPRINGS

Is the appropriate name given to a series of fountains
impregnated with alumina, iron, sulphur, the characteris-
tics of the Healing Spring, etc. They are situated in Au-
gusta county, 17 miles west of Staunton, near Pond Gap
Station, Virginia Central Railway. The springs are quite

'lii

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

stage-road from
La Central Rail-
3, and hotel ac-

- western corner

lleghanies, and

iuntain, on the

liur Springs, hy

iiral Bridge of

i, and 28 miles

e spring takes

the place for a

he present pro-

at his popular

|nd most agree-

Distance from

et Chalybeate

I, and 2 miles
the Virginia
Iguests, at Mr.

of fountains
characteris-
luated in Au-
l-r Pond Gap

igs are quite

new, and the accommodations are yet incomplete; hut
considerable local patronage has been already bestowed.

stribling's.

Tliis popular watering-place, 30 years old, was named
for its first energetic proprietor, Mr. Erasmus Stribling.
Location, 13 miles north of Staunton, in Augusta county ;
stage communication. These are sulphur, alum, and cha-
lybeate springs. The climate here is peculiarly good, and
visitors stay quite late in the season.

kawley's spring

Is called the best chalybeate water in Virginia. It is
situated on the southern slope of the North Mountain, in
Rockingham county, 12 miles north-west of Harrisonburg,
and 120 miles north-east of the White Sulphur. Accom-
modations for 150 guests.

burner's springs, or the seven fountains.

Are situated on the western base of Massanutten Moun-
tain, in Shenandoah county. Reached from Woodstock, 8
miles. The central spring is sulphur, the others are free-
stone, slate, limestone, and carbonic acid.

SHANNONDALE.

On a peninsula of the Shannondale River, called the
Horseshoe, in Jefferson county, are three springs, similar
to the celebrated Bedford water — saline chalybeate. Ac-
commodation for 150 persons ; scenery unsurpassed.

BATH OR BERKELEY SPRINGS.

The Berkeley Springs, in the town of Bath, Morgan
county, were very famous in the colonial times, when the
accommodations were eminently primitive. The amuse-

'ill

l^ !1

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ments in those days were of a character not now deemed
most fitting for the quiet elegance of a watering-plcce.
After the Ke volution, the accommodations were greatly im-
proved and increased ; but Saratoga and theWhite Sulphur
began to rival Berkeley, and their superior arrangements
soon left her far behind in the race. In 1844, a fire des-
troyed fourteen buildings, and one half the hotel accommo-
dation. In 1845, however. Col. John Stmther, lessee of the
property, commenced building an elegant hotel, which
was finished in 1848. This, and the completion of the
Baltimore and Ohio Railway, have restored the ancient
prosperity of Berkeley Springs ; and now she entertains
in every season some 1200 to 1500 visitors. There are
three large springs, and a number of smaller ones, forming
a bold and beautiful stream which, lower down, supplies
a number of mills with water-power. The water is light,
sparkling, and tasteless. Elegant accommodations for
bathing ; the ladies' building has nine private baths, and
a plunge bath 30 by 16 feet, of white marble ; and that for
gentlemen has ten bathing-rooms, with a swimming-bath
60 by 30 feet. Strother's Hotel will accommodate 400
persons ; O'Ferrall's, 150 ; other places, 150 more.

There are several other yet unimproved sulphur and
chalybeate springs, of which Ornick's and Capon are the
chief.

KOUTE.

By Baltimore and Ohio Railway to Sir John's Depot, 130
miles west of Baltimore, and 49 miles east of Cumberland ;
thence 2^ miles by stage to the springs.

YELLOW SPRINGS.

The Yellow Springs are situated in an elevated part of
Montgomery county, 4 miles from Christiansburg, on the

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

Virginia and Tennessee Railway. They are 5 miles from
Montgomery White Sulphur, 13 from the AUeghanies, 3o
from Salt Sulphur, and 60 from Greenbrier White Sulphur.
The hotel buildings here are new, pleasant, and well-
shaded by great forest-trees. The resort dates back 60
years.

•♦•

OHIO WHITE SULPHUR SPRING.

Near the geographical centre of Ohio, in Delaware
county, on the west bank of the Scioto, surrounded by a
country broken, hilly, and beautiful, are the famous White
Sulphur Springs of Ohio. The place has been known as
Hart's Spring, for more than 20 years. The buildings of
the public houses are pleasantly placed on an undulating
plateau 120 feet above the Scioto, 800 feet back. There
are accommodations for 600 guests. Bath-houses of all the
improved kinds, with steam-heating apparatus, are pro-
vided. The steady force with which the sulphur water is
expelled from its subterranean channel is one of the won-
ders of nature, quite unexplained hitherto.

Near this Sulphur Spring are three other mineral foun-
tains, respectively chalybeate, magnesian, and saline chaly-
beate.

THE BLUE LICK SPRINGS OF KENTUCKY.

Sulphurous saline waters are found in several foun-
tains on the bank of Licking River, in Nicholas county,
24 miles from the Ohio, and on the main road from Mays-
ville to Lexington. Salt was manufactured here until
within 18 years. The waters are among the most popular
in the country, being extensively sent out for commerce, as
well as used by the visitors.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

: H

I'* !f, .■

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TBENTON FALLS.

Few of the many places of resort in our country give
more thorough satisfaction to the visitor than Trenton
Falls. Not only are the falls magnificent as a spectacle
of natural beauty, but their vicinity includes localities
equally charming. Indeed, were there no cataract at
all, the magnificent gorge through which the stream
runs, and the rich beauty of its banks, would alone repay
the visitor.

There are two hotels at the falls, the finest being
Moore's Trenton Falls House. Mr. Moore, who was for-
merly a New- York merchant, came into possession of the
property a number of years ago, and, leaving the excite-
ment of business life in the metropolis, devoted his atten-
tion to this delightful spot. He added considerably to the
buildings, and, being a man of refined, artistic taste, im-
parted to it all the graces with which culture and taste
adorn a home. Indeed, this is the peculiar charm of the
Trenton Falls Hotel. It is not a mere hotel, but, even to
the transient traveler, is a beautiful home. Its rooms are
quietly and elegantly furnished ; its walls are hung with
rare paintings and engravings, while here and there are
displayed original sketches by some of our leading artists,
to whom Trenton Falls is a familiar haunt. In the music-
room is a large and superior pipe-organ, and among the
guests can usually be found some one or more who know
how to elicit its rich harmonies.

In more material features, this hotel is not wanting.
The rooms are clean and spacious, and no one could ask
for a better table. Dinner is served at about one o'clock,
and tea on the arrival of the coach bringing passengers
from the railway station. The advent of this vehicle,
which also carries the mail, is one of the daily excitements
at this place, and the guests always throng the wide and

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ctieerful piazza to look among tlio new-comers for any
friends to whom they may add their greetings to the cor-
dial welcome which tliis attractive hotel always seems to
extend to the travelers who may seek its pleasant hospi-
tality.

Visitors thus usually reach Trenton Falls just before
tea. The route from New- York is by the Hudson River
Railway or steamboats to Albany, thence by the New-
York Central Road to Utica, where passengers take the
Black River Road, and, after a couple of hours' ride north-
ward, reach the Trenton Falls Station. Here, coaches are
in waiting to convey them direct to the hotel. t

After a night's rest, the exploration of the vicinity be-
gins. Directly behind the house is a woodland grove, and
a path winding through it brings one to the brink of the
river near the first fall. There is also a steep staircase
leading directly down to the edge of the stream, which
just below the hotel emerges from the magnificent ravine
through which it courses, to meander through smiling
meadows and quiet farms. A path has been cut along the
edge of this ravine, and it is quite possible to ascend the
stream to beyoni the highest fall, thus exploring at lei
sure all its numerous beauties. At this starting-point the
visitor find the river to be very narrow — ^in times of drought
not over 10 feet wide, and in seasons of freshets over 20 —
and hemmed in on either side by perpendicular walls of
rock. Forty-five rods below is the outlet of the chasm,
and 37 rods above, the first fall. The pathway in this
latter direction has been blasted under an overhanging
rock, and, though apparently dangerous, is in reality quite
safe to all excepting the peculiarly nervous. Thousands
of ladies every year pass along this narrow way, but there
is no record of accident. At some points this pathway ia
as much as 20 feet above the level of the stream, and the

!l;

SPRINGS AND PALLS.

rapids are here peculiarly grand. In a few moments
Sherman's Fall is reached, the water dashing over an
immense parapet of rock, while on either side the rocky-
walls of the gorge ascend in sheer precipices to a fearful
height. The pathway leads over broken rocks, continually
ascending until the delighted visitor finds himself on a
level with the parapet wall, whence he can gaze down
into the chasm of dashing waters. Of course, the force and
beauty of this fall varies with the condition of the stream ;
but even when the water is at the lowest, it is still
grand, and, indeed, were there no water at all, the chasm
itself ,and wild grandeur of distorted rocks around would
render the spot a notable one. The falling water here
often takes a rich amber hue.

Beyond this fall the stream grows wider. More rapids
are passed, and the pathway leads under a mass of pro-
jecting rock where all visitors must bend low. Just be-
yond this point a vast flat rock expands out toward the
middle of the stream, and, stepping upon this, a full and
glorious view of the High Falls is suddenly obtained. Mr.
Sherman's excellent description, written thirty years ago,
is still exactly applicable : "The eye, elevated at a con-
siderable angle, beholds a perpendicular rock 100 feet
high, extending across the opening in a diagonal line
from the mountainous walls on each side, rising 70 or 80
feet still higher. Over this the whole river descends, first
perpendicularly about 40 feet, the main body rushing to
the left. On the right it pours down in a beautiful white
sheet. For a short distance in the middle the rock is left
entirely naked, exhibiting a perpendicular and bold breast
work, as though reared by art to divide the beautiful white
sheet on the one side from the overwhelming fury of the
water on the other. They unite on a flat below ; then,
with a tumultuous foam, veer suddenly down an inclina*

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

[Ul

lly
1 a
iwn

and

im;

still

asm

onlcL

liere

aplds

[ pro-
it be-

d tlie

1 and
Mr.

Is ago,
con-
feet

W line
or 80
Is, first
ling to
white
is left
[breast
wliite
of the
; then,
,aclina-

lion of rocky steps, wlicnco the whole river is precipitated
into a wide, deep, and dark basin, 40 feet underneath,
mountainous walls rising on each side of the stream near-
ly 200 feet, tall hemlocks and bending cedars extending
their branches on the verge above, small shrubbery varie-
gating here and there their stupendous and naked sides.
On the right of the basin a charming verdure entirely
overspreads a smoothly rounding and majestic prominence,
which reaches half-way up the towering summit, and over
the whole sky minglos with retiring evergreens, until,
verging in perspective to the distant angle of incidence,
they are lost in the ethereal expanse beyond. Such are
the High Falls, which the pen may fuintly describe, and
of which the pencil may portray the outline ; but Nature
reserves to herself the prerogative of giving to her visitors
the rapturous impression."

One of the mo'^t delightful times at which to visit this
bewitching spot is late in the afternoon, when the shadow
from the hill and forest on the west bank of the stream
begins to creei^ up the rocky front of the eastern side,
driving the rich sunlight up the red rock and from the
richly variegated foliage. At the summit of the falls a
rude house of refreshment has been built, from the balcony
of which a fine view may be obtained of the falls and of
the river beyond.

For the charms of this enchanting locality do not end
here. About 40 rods further up the stream — now stretch-
ing out into a wide though shallow river — is the so-called
Mill Dam Fall, 14 feet high and extending across the en-
tire stream. When the water is high, this fall is exqui-
sitely beautiful, for its graceful uniformity is then broken
by a scries of semi-circular jets of water formed by pro-
jecting bits of rock, between and not over which the

ii*

SrRINGS AND FALLS.

¥ II

■ lllil III I

water runs when the stream is low. Friendly boulders
lie on the bed of the river a few rods below this fall, by
means of which it is frequently possible to get almost to
the middle of the stream.

A little farther on, the river again suddenly contracts,
forming that scene of wild beauty known as the Aluam-
BBA, including a cascade. Still further (after passing a
curious circular hole, 5 or G feet deep, and called both the
PoTAsn Kettle and Jacob's Well) is the extraordinary
spot known as The Rocky Heart, where the water, in
its circumscribed limits, has worn for itself a deep hole or
bay, in the outline of which the imaginative can discern
the shape of a heart. It is only safe to pass a few rods be-
yond t^ is point, a huge projecting rock forming a sudden
end to the hitherto conveuient pathway. Looking up the
chasm from this point, it still appears most wildly invit-
ing ; and it is well that the tourist s re ute ends at this cli-
max of wild beauty ; for a few rods further the gorge ends,
and the tamer Bcnnery of low I 'fuks and cultivated fields
is resumed.

To those interested in geology, the vicinity of Trenton
Falls offers special attractions. There is an abundance of
fossil remains, and the various strata of the rocks are dis-
played to the greatest possible advantage. Mr. Sher-
man — who, by the way, built the hotel at the Falls and
first directed public attention thereto — includes in his ac-
count from which we have already quoted an interesting
treatise on these geological formations. It is contii^ned in
an elegant little volume, oditod by the In.te N. P. "Willis,
entiUeu Trenton Falls, Picturesque and Descriptive, to bo
had at the hotel. Mr. Willis, by the way, was a great ad-
mirer of this delightful spot, and frequently wrote about
it in the Home Journal, besides describing it more fully

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

it to
acts,

UAM-

U tlie
tinary
ter, in
ole or
Ascern
3ds lie-
sudden
up the
y invit-
^liia cli-
(i ends,
1 fields

Trenton
lance of
are dis-
|r. Slier-
[alls and
his ac-
^eresting
allied in
.Willis,
ive, to bo
[great ad-
jlG about
ore fully

in a story called Edith Linscy, one of his earliest produc-
tions. Mrs. Fanny Kemble has devoted to it a graceful
ode, and hundreds of newspaper writers have made it tlio
subject of communications more or less appropriate. In
every instance this beautiful stream and its noble cascades
have received unstinted praise, to which every fresh visitor
adds his or her approving word. Many, fresh from Nia-
gara, declare their preference for Trenton Falls ; but the
two are so utterly different that they can not be fairly
compared. At Trenton there is little of that impressive
immensity that is the awful peculiarity of Niagara ; but
in mere beauty and variety it is superior.

Walks. — The vicinity of Trenton Falls offers some de-
lightful rambles. It is worth while to go to the bridge
which crosses the stream a short distance below the chasm,
cross it, and ascend the sloping hills beyond, whence there
is a fine view of the surrounding country with its rolling
elevations and its richly cultivated fields. While on this
side of the river it is well to follow a comparatively un-
frequented pathway through the woods along the summit
of the cliff, occasionally catching glimpses of the river roll-
ing turbulently far below in its narrow gorge, and to per-
severe until the High Falls is reached. Another pleasant
walk is along the banks of the stream, on the same side with
+he hotel, to Prospect Village, 3 miles distant. Here is an-
other fall, a bridge, with a gloomy ravine, and a pictur-
esque old mill, forming altogether a scene of rare beauty,
though far different in character from those previously de-
scribed. Indeed, this cascade at Prospect is not sufficiently
appreciated ; but no visitor to Trenton should leave the
locality without witnessing this charming sight. Among
other places of interest in the vicinity are the Trout Ponds,
Cold Brook, Hinkley's Mills, Baron Steuben's Monument

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

at Rcmsen, and Star's Hill, commandinof a fine vie\r.
These localit s arc rather too distant from the hotel to be
included under the head of " walks/' and should be visited
in carriages. The view from Star's Hill includes the whole
region of country southward to the ISIohawk and to the
hills of Clinton and Sharon ; to the west, Lake Oneida can
be seen, and to the east the mountains of Vermont and the
Adirondack range. Far to the north stretches that vast
primeval forest which covers so largo a portion of North-
ern New- York, and extends in its unbroken solitude even
to the distant Saint Lawrence.

How LOITG TO STAY. — Trenton Falls are often visited by
picnic i^arties, who arrive in the morning, stay a few hours,
and depart in the afternoon. Such is the custom of too
many tourists. Of course, in even this brief interval it is
possible to walk through the gorge from the staircr.se near
the hotel to the Rocky Heart, and to gain even a vivid im-
pression of the Falls ; but this hurried visit is by no means
thorouq-hlv satisfactory. It seems almost sacrilegious to
gulp down, as it were, in one brief day the rare beauties
of this exquisite shrine of nature. To fully appreciate it,
one should see tlie scenery by the rich light of late after-
noon and early twilight, and, if possible, by moonlight too.
Even these two days will not allow time enough to visit
the places of interest in the vicinity, and a week is not too
much for even the transient tourist to devote to this charm-
ing locality. If detained over the Sabbath, places of wor-
ship will be found at Trentoi; Village, including the old-
est Unitarian church in the State.

ExPEXSES. — Mr. Moore, at his first-class hotel, charges
less than in most other hotels of the same rank. By the
week, we believe,, the price is |21, and by the day not more
than $4; if as much.

3 vicv:,
3I to be
! visited
e wliole
. to the
3ida can
and tlie
liat vast
[ Nortli-
Ldo even

isited \)J
!W hours,
m of too
jrval it is
cr.se near
vivid im-
no means
?gious to
; beauties
rcciate it,
ate after-
licrlit too.
.1 to visit
b not too
is charm-
s of wor-
the old-

Falls of Minnehaha, Minnesota.

I'*'

charpres

By the

not more

SPEINGS AND FALLS.

GENESEE FALLS.

The Falls of the Genesee River, at Rocliester, are to be
reached cither by the New- York Central or the Erie Rail-
way. Rochester is 375 miles distant from the metropolis
by the forme ;, and 385 by the latter route. A sketch of
the "Flour City" may be found in the article entitled
New-York Central Railway. Hotels; the Osburn,
Brackett, Congress, and Clinton; the first most remote,
the last a quarter-mile distant, and the other two close to
the Central depot and nearest the Falls. The city horse-
cars run to a point below the third fall, about 4 miles
from the Central depot, and 4^ or 5 from the Erie or
"Valley" depot. The Middle Fall is also, owing to the
position of the road, convenient of access from the great
highway from the city to Lake Ontario, the favorite sum-
mer drive of Rochester people. Public hacks may be
found at any street corner. Walbridge's stables, on Fitz-
liugli Street, 3 squares from the Brackett, Congress, or
Clinton, afford excellent livery teams. The different cata-
racts of the Genesee evidently formed at one time a single
cascade ; but the differen degrees of hardness of the seve-
ral rocks have caused an unequal retrograde movement
of the falls, until they have assumed their present posi-
tion. At the Upper Falls, just nortli of the New- York
Central Railway bridge, the water descends 96 feet over
the perpendicular face of Niagara limestone, underlaid by
shale. At this place the noted Sam Patch made his last
and fatal leap. There is no good provision made for a
view of the falls, and the visitor who would enjoy their
beauty must be content to take very primitive methods of
observation. There is an " observatory " in a hier-garten,
near the brink, on the eastern side, (there is no view what-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ever to be obtained from the west bank, owing mainly to
the many mills which have usurped the water-power
there,) but as it is on a level with the fall, it affords a
very indifferent prospect. One must clamber down the
clayey bank, at about a quarter-mile below the fall, and
then walk up the narrow ledge at the bottom of this cliff,
again, to the basin beneath the fall. Here he has a view
which repays him for his trouble. In his face is the great
fall, and on the side, along the west bank or cliff, are
a great number of petty falls — miniature Taghkanics —
caused by the overflow of the mills, wliich crowd each
other, with a most covetous look, on the dangerous
brink.

Below the Upper Falls the river flows between nearly
perpendicular walls, about If miles to the Middle Falls,
where it has a descent of 35 feet. One hundred rods be-
low, it descends 84 feet at the Lower Falls, over a ledge
of Medina sand-stone, to the level of Lake Ontario. This
is by far the most picturesque point in the river below the
city. One will best enjoy it on the west bank, although,
to have seen and appreciated the whole, he must visit
also the other. To do this, nothing will do but a retracing
of his steps from the Lower Fall to the Upper, where he
may cross the only available bridge — that of the railway —
and go down to the Lower Fall again on the east bank.
The horse-cars, fortunately for economists, reach the Low-
er Fall on the west side. The banks of the river, through-
out much of its length, indeed, but particularly here, re-
minds one most strikingly of the gorge through which
flows the Niagara River. Several sulphur springs flow
out of the rocks below the Middle Fall.

Below the Lower Fall are numerous rapids, which con-
tinue to Carthage, the end of navigation on the Genesee

ily to
)ower
rds a
11 tlie
1, and
s cliff,
i view
I great
ff, are
Lilies —
i each
gerous

nearly

3 Falls,

ods he-

a ledge
Tliia

low the
;hough,
Lst visit
itracing
here he
jlway—
it hank.
|he Low-
^irough-
|here, re-
[\ which
[igs flow

lich con-
Genesee

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

River from Lake Ontario. The post-office at the village
of Genesee Falls is called Portageville, while Portage Sta-
tion is on the Buffalo hranch of the New- York and Erie
Railway, 30 miles from "^'nrnellsville. For the fine scene-
ry there, see Erie Rail' \y.

NIAGARA.

Until commerce and curiosity shall so populate the
Great West as to render it possible to determine reliably
the wonders of the Rocky Mountain region, Niagara Falls
must certainly hold the place of the first wonder of the
natural world. It is only recently that its preeminence
has been disputed. Travelers from the Great Snake River,
in Oregon, have brougbt back word to wondering (and
distant) audiences of a cataract upon that stream which,
possessing all the volume of Niagara, surpasses its height
by nearly 100 feet. It is not a little distressing to the
tourist to know, while he stands by the hitherto unrivaled
precipice, that perhaps, after all, he is only gazing upon a
second-class fall ; but then there may be consolation in the
other reflection, that, unlike Alexander, he shall not be
obliged to sigh for more worlds to conquer.

We may observe at once three recessions — "backings
out," the London Saturday Itemew would probably ele-
gantly say — concerning the great wonder of New- York.
Its precipice has been gradually receding, of its own sove-
reign will, (which who shall hinder? as was truly ob-
served once in Irish,) from Lake Ontario toward Lake
Erie, from time immemorial ; its popularity, of late years,
has been likewise declining ; and now the glory of its pre-
eminence is threatened. For, not to dwell longer on the

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ii ■

/ IIB

familiar geological fact and the now oft-repeated compari-
son, it can not be denied tliat Niagara Falls is no longer
the favorite resort of the heau monde. Saratoga, Newport,
Long Branch, the mountains, the Saint Lawrence retreats,
are the places where one must chiefly look for the fash-
ionables of to-day. At the Falls one will be more likely
to find newly-married couples who have long been looking
forward to their honeymoon and the Niagara visit with
almost equal anticipations ; commercial travelers, forcing
Niagara upon their programme to their temporary pecu-
niary loss ; excursion parties from New- York and Penn-
sylvania ; and a good many people just like himself. But
of all fashionable or quondam fashionable resorts, Niagara
especially is to be visited, and is visited, not for its fashion
and folly, but for itself — its own glorious, magnificent self :
and itself we will now wholly regard.

There are two ways to see Niagara, which we will call
the costly way and the careful way ; the first under con-
trol of a hackman, and the second on foot, as reason, study,
and a free moral agency may direct. We prefer the latter.
Most guide-books give the first in detail, which is not ne-
cessary; the only essentials being, to arrive at Niagara
Falls, put up at the biggest and costliest hotel, commit
yourself unreservedly to a member of the Niagara Falls
Order of Thugs, (see paragraph on The Hackmen mid-
way in this article,) and go in the order he may choose,
with such frequent money-lettings as he may prescribe, to
the following places : Brock's Monument, at Queenstown,
(7 miles,) Lewistown and its Suspension Bridge, at the
same point, Lundy's Lane, the Whirlpool, the Devil's Run,
the Great Suspension Bridge, the Burning Spring, the Mu-
seum, near Table Rock, the place where Table Rock was.
Fort Schlosser, (that was,) Navy Island, Grand Island, the

'h I

tgara
limit
^alls
mid-
)ose,
)e, to
[own,
tlie
|Run,
Mu-
was,
L tlie

:, I

*''Piiijiii''iiiPniiw^p§lll@PIP

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

Rapids above the Falls, and so on. Some views of Niagara
Falls are often included during this experience.

A pleasure-traveler at this great point on his journey
should make up his mind at the outset to two things : that
ho can not make the tour of Niagara Falls as he can visit
most places, in a railway car or a carriage, in a delay of a
few hours ; and that, whatever he do, a first, comparative-
ly brief visit will never enable him to " appreciate " the
great cataract as he will afterward. If he shall make a
foot-tour of the region, he will give himself a peculiar
aptitude to take in the spirit of the scene, will be able and
anxious to delay longer at the really important points,
and will be very unlikely to waste his time in seeing curi-
osities hi which nothing but a morbid regret at the Bar-
num's Museum fires could interest him. The route usually
taken by visitors to the Falls ought to be divided into
two parts — one, consisting of the cataracts and their walls,
and nothing else ; the other, belonging to a beautiful rail-
way ride (which ms oy lose) down to Ontario, and includ-
ing Lundy's Lane or Chippewa, Lewiston, the two Sus-
pension Bridges, etc. If one is not to visit the River Saint
Lawrence, indeed, perhaps a carriage-ride to the Rapids
above the Falls may be advisable ; but the view on the
bridge connecting Goat Island to the mainland will com-
monly be more stitisfactory.

With the convictions, then, that the great cataract de-
mands time and trouble, and is to be treated as a friend
who improves on acquaintance, let the tourist set out on
his foot-journey. Five minutes' w^alk from the New- York
Central Railway depot at " Niagara Falls" — not Suspension
Bridge depot — will bring him, passing between the Cata-
ract and International Hotels, to the street or road which
leads across the iron bridge above the American Falls

SPEINGS AND PALLS.

Hii

(passage both ways, 25 cents) to Goat or Iris Island, pass-
ing Bath Island. Upon this bridge one should stop for
the view both above and below. The latter is the less im-
portant, but affords a fine preparation for the mighty scene
at the tower ; the waters, hurrying over rocks and stones
from the Kapids above, give one a keen sense of the ever-
lasting activity which so stirs the soul to sympathy. But
above, as far as the limit of the waters reaches, the toss-
ing, furious rapids present a scene which some pronounce
the grandest at Niagara. The visitor will delay here
profitably some time. The walk directly across through
the shady grove on Goat Island, over a road moistened
with the spray from the great cataract, whose distant roar
moves one indescribably, is full of cl ms. At the end of
this walk is the Terrapin To/ver, from the summit of
which may be had the finest view, not of the whole fall,
but of the " agony of the waters " in the centre of the
Horseshoe. The depth at that point has been estimated —
enormously, one must say — at 30 feet. The views across
the great sweep to the Canada shore, up the torrent until
it meets the horizon, and down through the magnificent
gorge below the fall to Suspension Bridge, are among tlie
great experiences of a visitor here. One will wish also to
walk to the u^iper end of the island, and see the Three
Sisters (islands) and the view up the river from the low
standpoint of the shore. The roads and paths through the
woods on Goat Island are highly attractive. (We are in-
debted to Mr. G. M. Colburn, of the International, for the
following information, now first published: The Three
Sister Islands, opposite the Hermit's Cascade, are now
open to visitors. During the past winter three truss-
bridges have been thrown across, connecting them with
Goat Island. Very few persons have ever been on them

SPRINGS ANT> FALLS.

•1

, pass-
;op for
iss im-
' scene
stones
) ever-
. But
toss-
Liounce
y hero
irougli
istened
nt roar
end of
mit of
3le fall,

of the
latod —

across
it until
iiificent
mg t'.j.e

also to
Three

le low
LTgh the

are in-

for the
Three

re now
truss-

m with

n them

until the past winter, and it has opened some wild natural
objects of interest for all. About $0000 have l)0(>n ex-
ponded by Mr. D. J. Townsend, for the Porter estate, in
building the bridges, walks, drives, etc.)

Keturning from Terrapin Tower, one will l)est complete
his studies of the Horseshoe Fall. The Canadian shore
then will be reached by the little row-boat which plies
from the foot of an inclined plane at no considerable dis-
tance from the " Museum" at the iron bridge. Ferriage
and railway charge, 25 c»mts ; there is a staircase at the
side of the railway, the tedious walk up or down which
reduc<^s the charire by half a d'me. The row across the
river is perfectly safe, a fact wliich wo should liar lly feel
obliged to state had we not known even strong men who
hesitated at the brink of the tossing flood. There is a pe-
culiar and fine front-view of the Horseshoe Fall on this
diabasis.

Landed in Canada, the visitor finds the road leading to
the plateau above on a steep incline ; but the fatigue of
the climb is forgotten whenever he turns to look at the
great cataract, or the American and Central Falls, nearly
opposite him. At the summit he finds himself on a i )ore
beautiful plateau than he has yet enjoyed on the American
side, stretching away as far as the I^ake Ontario shore on
the south, and meeting the river just above its precipice.
The Clifton House, near at hand, will be worthy a visit, as
it is a fine specimen of a well-kept, rather old-fashioned,
elegant English public-housi . (See paragraph on Hotels
below.)

The Hackmen. — Along the plateau, up to the site of
Table Rock, (which has fallen piecemeal, until now only
its root remains,) the visitor would enjoy a delightful
walk, surrounded with beauty, grandeur, and sublimity,

■villi

»nn

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

but for one thinf?— the ciirso of Niagara, the Miorht of the
huulHcape, tlie ^ad-flios that hovor even over the brink of
th(! cataract — tlio hackmon. You -will oncoiinttT them
eviTywhero, poor victim ! but this table-land seems to us
their peculiar al)ode, hive, headquarters. Some one who
has never visited Niagara has divided the human race into
" men, women, and the Beecher family ;" had he come
here, ho would have said, " pale-faces, Indians, and Nia-
gara hackmen." These pests accost you at every turn in
the road, and at every point where it does not turn ; on
Table Rock and under it ;* in the seclusion of Goat Island,
starting forth from behind trees, and, one would almost
think, springing from the earth ; haunting the Cave of
the Winds, and hanging on the verge of the precipice at
Terrapin Tower — burrs, barnacles, bores. That they are

* Outrages at Niaoaha Falls.— A journal in Westorn Ne-w-
York says: "Those who have visited Niagara Falls /at any time
within the past ten years, and ventured upon the Canadian side, to
view the stupendous cataract from the famous Table Rock, have, as
a rule, experienced the annoyances of a lawless gang of fellows who
seem subject to no code of either International or British law, but
who adopt the most direct means of relieving the pockets of their
victims of as much money as possible, making exorbitant charges for
imaginary services, and frequently resorting to force in extorting
their demands, A Canadian paper, the Evening Times^ of Hamilton,
Ontario, has recently been warning the public against the dangers of
the locality, and showing up one Saul Davis, the alleged leader in the
outrages described, and proprietor of an establishment '^v^hich most
visitors have cause to remember, known as the ' Table-Rock House.'
A libel suit is the consequence, and the defendant therefore appeals
for evidence to sustain his statements to Americans, who have prin-
cipally been the victims of the plaintiflf's persecutions. Those who
have suffered at the hands of attaches of the so-called Table-Rock
House, and who would be willing to narrate their wrongs in court
and serve a cause of humanity, are desired to communicate with the
office of the journal mentioned."

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

a scpamto ppocu'S of boast appears from tlio fact that orili-
nary means will not rid ono of tliem ; they stick to you
with more pertinacity than did the lirst postal currency,
and a repulse that would annihilate a New- York newsboy
BeenicJ only to indicate to them your desire for their further
acquaintance. In short, the hackmen of Niagara are in-
tolerable. If there can be any use to which the ideal " poor
Indian" of Niagara, who is privileged to

-see God in clouds and hear him in the wind,"

rting

s of

the

lost

ise.'

)eals

)rin-

.'•ho

lock

lourt

the

icitliout the hindrance of these hackmen, can bo put by
Government, we think it would bo to educate them up to
such a civilized condition as to render them liable to hack-
men, and then give them liberty to use the aboriginal
tomahawk against the common foe.

The best evasion of the hack-difficulty possible is for
visitors to engage carriages at the offices of the hotels.
A hotel official facetiously writes us that " the hack sys-
te::i is not perfect ;" but " the legal rates are |2.0G per
hour iov a carnage, not fa taci, person, as many are led
to believe." Let our T..idei.; . tj orefore, disregard the lies
which the hackm'^n or tlie sf r^^ t will be sure to tell them,
and abide by the hg^) p"'.v.7l, ions. Let us also remind the
reader that these hackmen receive a x')ercentage (25 cents
on the dollar) for all the custom, whether of " going be-
hind the sheet," purchasing or observing curiosities at
Saul Davis's " Table Rock Museum." This caution will
disclose the text from which their eloquent orations are
drawn.

To resume : the visitor who can succeed in keeping ofi'
these wretches, and the others of whom mention has been
made in a foot-note, will enjoy, upon this Canada side, the
grandest of the views of the great fall. We leave to our

SmiNGS AND FALLS.

fill

reader's discretion the journey below Table Rock, where
is the personal danger alluded to above, and the venture
behind the main sheet a very short distance when the
wind is right ; the view there is fine, of course, but hardly
essential. A little beyond Table Rock one may gain the
view which inspired Gignoux's famous masterpiece. A
short or long walk further up the river, according to one's
time or opportunity, will always repay the trouble it costs.
Returning to the American side and the toll-gate to
Goat Island, the visitor will cross from the mainland and
take the right-hand path for the Cave of the Winds. This
is under the Central Fall, (see statistics below,) which is
between the Horseshoe and the American. The cave is
100 feet high and the same in width, and is reached by
Biddle's Stairs, descending spirally. You can pass safely
into the recess behind the water to a platform beyond.
INIagical rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; some-
times bows of entire circles, and two or three at once, are
seen. At the foot of Goat Island the Three Profiles form
an object of curious interest. These x^rofiles, seemingly
some two feet long, are to be seen, one directly above the
other, as you look across the first sheet of water, directly
under the lowest point of rock. Luna Island is reached
by a foot-bridge, from, the right of Goat Island. It has an
area of some three quarters of an acre. The efiective rain-
bow forms seen at this point have given it the name it
bears.

It was upon the west side of Goat Island, near Riddle's
Stairs, that the renowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two
successful leaps into the waters below, saying, as he went
off, to the throng of spectators, that " one thing might be
done as well as another !"

We have now completed the tour of Niagara Falls pro-

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

per ; there remain the places wliicli we have said belong
rather to the Lewiston journey. These are given below,
•under the separate title of Niagara River. The reader
will find some few facts concerning the river in the beo-in-
ning of the sketch of Lake Ontario. He will wifjh now
to have the statistical information regarding the Falls, the
way to get to them from New- York, the hotels, etc.

Niagara Falls were seen by Father Hennepin, a Jesuit
missionary, in 1678, before any other wliite person ever
looked upon them. A sketch which he made is copied in
Hall's State Geological Beport, and proves some interesting
facts about the Falls. There was then a third fall, (or
fourth, counting the Central as one,) from the Canadian
side toward the east, across the line of the main fall, and
caused by a great rock wliicli turned the divided current
in this direction. This rock fell a few years prior to 1750.
Lyell, the famous geologist, thinks the falls have receded
and do recede about a foot every year, varying, however,
with the formation of the rock which they encounter.
The present encountered " Niagara limestone" is very dif-
ficult to cat. The height of the Horseshoe Fall is 164 feet
on the American and 150 on the Canadian side ; width,
475 feet. Goat Island, however, occupies about one fourth
of the space with its 70 acres. The American and Central
Falls descend 154 feet, the former being 660 and the latter
243 feet wide. The amount of water discharged is com-
puted to be 100,000,000 of tons per hour. More water
passes in these fearful torrents in seven seconds than is
conveyed through Croton aqueduct in twenty-four hours.
At the Horseshoe Fall the concussion of the falling waters
with those in the depths below occasions a spray that vails
the cataract two thirds up its height. Above this impene-
trable foam, to the height of 50 feet above the fall, a cloud

t
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■i

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

of ligliter spray rises, wliicli, when tlie sun shines upon it
in the proper direction, displays niagnificent solar rain-
bows. The sound of the fall varies greatly, much of the
time being audible only a little way off, and again rolling
over Lalvc Ontario, even to Toronto, 46 miles distant. The
name Niagara signifies " Thunder of Waters." The Cat
Ijidians, who dwelt near it, used to endeavor to propitiate
the si^irit of its waters by annually sacrificing a human
victim at its shrine. The most beautiful Indian maiden
was selected for this honor. In the presence of a great as-
semblage, she was placed in a white canoe, with the finest
fruits and flowers, and the fragile bark, pushed out into
the stream, carried her over this awful portal to eternity.

Routes. — To reach Niagara from New -York City, one
may take either Hudson River boats, or Harlem Railway,
or Hudson River Railway to Athens, Albany, or Troy ;
thence by New- York Central Railway to Suspension Bridge
or Niagara Falls, according to the hotel at which one shall
stop. Or, the Erie Railway will bring passengers from
New- York to Buffalo, and thence by Central Railway, 21
miles, to Niagara Falls, or, 22 miles, to the Bridge. Pas-
sengers from Boston take the New- York Central at Alba-
ny ; those from the West may come by Buffalo or (better)
the Great Western Railway of Canada, which crosses the
Bridge and lands one at the Suspension Bridge depot.
The fare from New- York to Niagara (either station) is
regularly $9.35 ; but this is sometimes reduced even as
low as $5, on account of the great competition. One may
also reach the Falls from Lake Ontario or Toronto by
steamboat to Lewist<;n and New- York Central cars to the
Bridge or Falls.

HoTELS.~The International is the largest, and is a little
square from the depot at Niagara Falls

more than one

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may
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SPRINGS AND FALLS.

Station. It is cliicfly the favorite amon<^ transient tourists
wlio are only to stay a day or so, as '>>ne is most sure of
always getting a room at tliis immense house. Prices,
$4.50 per day. Telegraph and mail facilities here as at
all the l^ouses nore or less. Omnibus meets all trains.
Season begins May 9th, lasting six months. Proprietor,
Mr. James T. Fulton.

The Cataract House, (omnibus at depot,) closely adjoin,
ing the International, is gay and fashionable, more apt to
be crowded with i^ermanent guests, and not materially
different in rooms or table from its neighbor. Its rear
balconies command exquisite views of the Rapids and Goat
Island. Terms and season the same as the International.
Proprietors, Messrs. Whitney, Jerauld & Co.

The Clifton House is on the Canada side, kept by Messrs.
Bromley, Shears & Co., (postal address, Niagara Falls, N.Y.)
Rooms for 250 to 300 guests ; terms, $4 i^er day in Ame-
rican currency ; telegraph in office ; railway station 2 miles
distant, either on Canada or New- York side, at the Bridge.
It is the favorite resort of foreigners and Southerners, and
commands the finest views of the Falls that can be had
from any house. Its omnibus meets all trains, preventing
any necessity for enduring hack-extortions. Open from
May 15th to November 1st.

The Monteagle House is the principal hotel at the Sus-
pension Bridge depot, 2 miles from the depot at Niagara
Falls. Proprietor, Mr. H. L. De Camp. Terms, $3.50 per
day ; $14 to $18 per week. Rooms for 200 guests, from
May 1st to November 1st. Telegraph in railway depot.
This is a very agreeable, quiet house, where one who pre-
fers to be at I little distance from the Falls, and to spend
some time, ^vill find it pleasant to stop. The hotel omni-
bus conveys passengers to and from the depot, a distance

; •

I ;

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

of less tlian a quarter of a milo. Mr. Tfe Camp also is.eeps
the New-York Central House, a very pleasant little inn,
standing a few feet from tlie depot at tlie Bridge, with
accommodations for 100 guests, and a plain but good
table. For travelers consulting economy, or convenience
to the cars at the Bridge, we would especially recommend
it. Terms, $3 per day.

'f :

NIAGARA RIVER TO LEWISTON.

The great wonder of the world which the tourist comes
to see on the precipice of the Niagara River, is supple-
mented and sometimes belittled by the cupidity of men.
But there is a great deal of interesting scenery, and a
number of important historical localities,, upon the whole
length of the river between the two great lakes which the
Niagara joins. If the reader please, we will separate these
from the tour i)roper of the Falls, and collect them here.

The most usual mode of conveyance from Buifalo to the
Falls of Niagara, and thence to Lake Ontario, or into
Canada, is by the Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston
Branch of the New- York Central Railway, 28 miles in
length. It runs through Tonawanda, 11 miles ; Niagara
Falls, 22 miles ; Suspension Bridge, 24 miles, connecting
with the Great Western Railway of Canada, and termi-
nates at Lewiston, the head of navigation on Niagara
River, 28 miles.

Another route is by the steamboats of the Ontario
Steamboat, (American Express Line Company,) from Buf-
falo to Toronto, ma Welland River and Canal. A third
route is from Buffalo by a railway on the Canada side, but
under the Erie direction, called the Erie and Ontario, start-
ing from the Lake Huron (Grand Trunk) depot. By this
route one passes in full view of the Falls, to the Clifton

SmiNGS AND FALLS.

ieeps
inn,
with
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mend

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n Buf-
third
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), start-
By this
Clifton

House, 3 miles helow Chippewa; Suspension Bridge, 5
miles ; Queonstown 11 miles, terminating at Niagara, Pro-
vince of Ontario, 35 miles from Buffalo.

As the stcamhoat leaves Buffalo, a fine view may he ob-
tained of Lake Erie and both shores of Niagara River.
On the Canada side, the first objects of interest are the
ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Americans, July 3d,
1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, opposite the
site of a strong fortress which the United States have
erected for the protection of the river and the city of
Buffalo.

The Niagara River commences at Bird Island, nearly
opposite the mouth of Buffalo harbor, and passes by the
site of old Fo]'t Erie and Waterloo (3 miles distant) on the
Canada side. At the latter place a steam fei'ryboat plies
across the river to Black Rock, now forming a j)art of the
city of Buffalo. It is here proposed to construct a railway
bridge across the stream, about 1800 feet in width. The
Buffalo and Lake Huron Branch of the Grand Trunk (Ca-
nadian) Railway starts from this point, and extends to
Goderich, on Lake Huron, crossing the Great Western
Railway at Paris.

Grand Island, attached to Erie county, N. Y,, is passed
on the right as we descend the river. This was the spot
on which Major M. M. Noah, formerly a prominent mem-
ber of the New- York press, hoped to assemble all the
Hebrew populations of the world. Near the ferry there
was once an observatory, or i)agoda, 100 feet high, f;oni
which a grand view of the region was gained. This spot
is called Point View. The island is 10 miles long, from
north to south, and 7 wide; has 11,000 acres; is partly
cleared and cultivated, while the larger portion is covered
with a large gro-v^iih of oaks and other forest-trees.

! I

.1^

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SrrjNGS AND FALLS.

I ;

• Squaw Island and Strawberry Island are both small
islands lying on the American side of the stream, near the
head of Grand Island. The river is here used in part for
the Erie Canal, a pier extending from S(iuaw Island to
Bird Island, forming" a large basin, called Black Rock
Harbor.

Cayuga Island and Buckhorn Island are small bodies of
land belonging to the United States, situated immediately
below Grand Island.

Navy Island, lying opposite the village of Chippewa,
18 miles below the head of the river, is a celebrated island
belonging to the Canadians, having been taken ]iossession
of by the sympathizing patriots in 1837, when a partial re-
bellion occurred in Upper and Lower Canada.

There are, in all, upward of 30 islands lying in the
Niagara River above the falls. Those just named are the
chief, and almost the only ones worth naming.

Tonawanda, 11 miles below Buffalo, is situated at the
mouth of Tonawanda Creek, opposite Grand Island. The
Erie Canal here enters the creek, which it follows for
several miles on its course toward Lockport. A railway
also runs to Lockport, connecting with the New- York Cen-
tral Railway, extending to Albany. A ship-canal is pro-
posed to be constructed from Tonawanda to some eligible
point on Lake Ontario, thus forming a rival to the Welland
Canal of Canada.

Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and 2 miles above
the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara River, at the
mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable to
Port Robinson, some 8 or 10 miles west, the latter place
being on the line of the Welland Canal. The village of
Chippewa contains a population of about 1000 souls.
Steamboats and lake craf^ of a large size are built at this

SPKINGS AND FALLS.

place for tlio trade of Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes. It
has obtained a plac > in history on account of the bloody
battle which was fouf]rht near it in the war of 1813,
between the United States and Great Britain. The battle
was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains a short
distance south of the steamboat landino-. The American
forces were commanded by Brigadier-General Winfield
Scott, in the absence of Major-General Jacob Brown, aid
the British by Major-General Riall. The latter, after an
obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated with con-
siderable loss.

Drummonds\ille, one mile west of the Falls, and situat-
ed on Lundy's Lane, is celebrated as the scene of another
sanguinary engagement between the American and British
forces, July 25tli, 1814.

Schlosser's Landing, 2 miles above Niagara Falls vil-
lage, is a noted steamboat landing, opposite Chippewa,
from whence the steamer Caroline was cut adrift by the
British and destroyed, by being precipitated over the Falls
during the Canadian rebellion, December 29th, 1837.

The ship or steamboat channel runs along the bank of
Giand Island to nearly opposite Chippewa, .vhere the
whole stream unites before plunging over the Falls of
Niagara, being again separated at the head of Goat Island.
From this point the awe-struck traveler can scan the quiet
waters above, and the raging rapids below, preparing to
plunge over the cataract. Below Navy Island, between
Chippewa and Schlosser, the river is nearly 3 miles in
wddth, but soon narrows to 1 mile, when the rapids
commence and continue for about 1 mile before reaching
the edge of the precipice at the Horse-Shoe Fall. At the
commencement of the rapids, " the bed of the river de-
clines, the channel contracts, numerous large rocks heave

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

up tlio rolling surges and dispute tlio passage of the now
raging and foaming floods. The mighty torrent, leaping
down successive ledges, dashing over opposing elevations,
hurled back by ridges, and repelled from shores and is-
lands — plunging, boiling, roaring — seems a mad wilder-
ness of waters striving against its better fate, and hurried
on to destruction by its own blind and reckless impetuosity.
Were there no catarnct, these rapids would yet make Nia-
gara the wonder of the world."

Iris or Goat Island commences near the head of the ra-
pids, and extends to the precipice, of which it forms a part,
separating the American Fall from the Canadian or Horse-
Shoe Fall. It is about half a mile in length, 80 rods wide,
and contains over GO acres of arable land, being for the
most part covered with a heavy growth of forest-trees of a
variety of species, and native plants and flowers. A portion
of the island, however, has been cleared off, and a garden
inclosed, in which are some excellent fruit-trees, and a
variety of native and foreign plants and flowers, and a
fish-pond. The island is remarkably cool, shady, and plea-
sant, and is an object of unceasing admiration from year
to year. Comfortable seats and arbors are placed at the
most interesting points, where the visitor can sit at ease
and enjoy the beautiful and sublime views presented to
his sight, often entranced by a deafening roar of mighty
waters in their descent, accompanied by changing rain-
bows of the most gorgeous description.

Among the places pointed out as interesting to visitors,
near the Falls, is Bender's Cave, midway between the Sus-
pension Bridge and the Clifton House. It is a recess, 6
feet high and 20 in length, made by a decomposition of the
limestone. Termination Rock occupies a recess behind
the centre of the Horse- Shoe Fall, reached by the descent

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

tors,

ISus-

tlie

lind

Icent

of a spiral stairway from Table Rock, tbo traverse for a
short distance of the rude mar<[^o of the river, and then
of a narrow path over a frightful ledgo and through the
blinding spray, behind the mighty fall. Before descend-
ing, visitors should make a complete change of toilet for a
rough costume more suitable for the stormy and rather
damp journey before them. The Museum, (see p. 189)
near Table Hock, contains specimens of minerals, birds,
fishes, and animals, many of which were collected in the
neighborhood of the Falls. Admittance, which includes
the use of the dress, and admission behind the sheet, 50
cents. The Burning Spring is near the water, 2 miles
above the Falls. The carbonated sulphuretted hydrogen
gas here gives out a brilliant flame when lighted. (Before
visiting this place, the tourist will do well to read the note
on page 189, under the sketch of Niagara Falls.)

Below the Falls, the first objects of interest are the
Ferry Stairs and Point View on the American side. About
30 rods below the Ferry Stairs is the spot where the her-
mit Abbot was drowned. Half a mile below the latter
point is Catlin's Cave, formerly much frequented.

The Suspension Bridge, the greatest artificial curiosity
in America, is situated two miles and a half below the
Falls. Its total length, from centre to centre of the towers,
is 800 feet ; its height above the water, 258 feet. The first
bridge, which was built by Mr. Charles Ellet, was a very
light and fairy-like affair, in comparison with the pre&ient
substantial structure. The bridge, as it now stands, was
constructed under the direction of Mr. John A. Roebling,
at a cost of $500,000. Here has recently sprung into exis-
tence the village of Suspension Bridge, on the American
side, and Clifton, on the Canadian side of the river, here
being about 800 feet in width, with perpendicular banks
of 325 feet.

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SPRINGS AND TAI-LS.

,v „York Central) from Suspension
The railway ride (^"^"^J^^^ JdcBt in tUe world

perhaps none can ^^f^^ ^ ^^le below the hridge.

^ The Whirlpool and R»P'^/ ^ ^„rthy a visit. The
a^esigUtsofgreatinteres^^andwelW y^^^^ .^^^

Wlurlpool, 3 miles ^^"J^^Jebr^ted Maelstrom on the
,embles in its -V^^^^^^^^ „y the ri.er mahing
coast of Norway. It ^^ ^^^'^^^re narrower than at any
nearly a right angle, ^^^^'^^ZO rods wide, the current
other place, not bemg more than 6 .^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ,o

inning with ^^^l^^jZ^n^^^^^'^'^^^Z,
feet above the sides. Tb^tt ^^^ ^ank to he

ttent. There is a P''* ^^J;^^ ,, somewhat dif&cult to
Whirlpool on ^*\»f i-^^J^tm^Lod almost every day.
descend and '«='^"f ' '* ^ .^r down, is also a pomt o
The Devil's Hole, 1 mile fart^ p„„_ ^ ,^all

'at attraction, --f^! J^? Entiish soldiers were pre-
ftream, where a ^'^^^l^i^;^^ by Indians durmg
cipitated in their A'S^* «°^ ^^ amphitheatre of bigh
the old French war in 1759- ^ ti,e vaUey of

ground spreads around and pe^c T ^^ ^ ^^^^^^
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trmedbyBloodyBux^fromj^Uich J ^^^

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SPRINGS AND FALLS.

ment on the Canadian side, and -he Suspension ^Bridge at
LeT"iston. Queenstown is well worthy a visit from the so-
journer at the Falls, and affords a most delightful drive.
It is historically as well as pictorially interesting. Here
General Brock and his aid-de-camp McDonnell fell, Octo-
ber 11th, 1812. Brock's Monument, which crowns the
heights above the village, is 185 feet high, surmoimted by
a dome of 9 feet, which is reached by a spiral flight of 250
steps from the base inside. The remains of Brock and his
comrade lie in stone sarcophagi beneath, having been re-
moved thither from Fort George. This is the second mo-
nument erected on the spot, the first having been destroy-
ed by Lett, in 1840. The Suspension Bridge, at this point,
was built by two joint-stock companies, one incorporated
by the Legislature of New-York State, and the other by
the Provincial Parliament. The roadway is 849 feet long,
20 feet wide, 60 feet above the water ; cost, $58,000 ; erect-
ed, 1850. The Niagara River is navigable from Lewiston
to its mouth at Fort Niagara, a farther distance of 7 miles,
or 14 below the Falls of Niagara. See sketch entitled
Lake Ontario and River Saint Lawrence, which
takes up the journey at Lewiston, and continues it to the
Gulf of Saint Lawrence.

Before we leave our readers to put our counsels to prac-
tice and test, let us add one or two cautions. Especially
beware of hackmen ; look upon them as sworn raiders on
your pockets, and it you must employ them, make your bar-
gain at the start. Kez^t in importance, let us advise, that
you be not deceived by any appearance of water or cliff, so
aa to venture into danger. And finally, what we hope you
will read, friend, before you come within sight of the
Great Cataract, don't be absurd, and leave your umbrella
in the cars because you see water falling from a cliff in-
Btead of out of the sky.

SPRINGS AND FALLS.

BAKEB'S FALLS.

This romantic locality is but little known to the travel
ing public. It is a cataract in xhe Hudson River, between
the villages of Fort Edward and Sandy Hill, in both
of which places (only 2 or 3 miles apart) there are
comfortable inns. The Falls are easily accessible to the
pedestrian, and are well worthy a visit. Tourists on the
way to Lake George will do well to lie over a day at Fort
Edward, and visit the finest falls which the Hudson River
can boast of. That magnificent stream is unusually free
from these picturesque obstructions, and Baker's Falls are
by no means unworthy even the noble Hudson. The wa-
ter here shoots down a steep descent of ledges, in all 76
feet in 60 rods, forming a scene of great beauty, and af-
fording an extensive water-power.

PASSAIC FALLS, FATEBSON.

Paterson, N. J., on the Erie Railway, is celebrated as
affording one of the most romantic waterfalls in the coun.
try, and the neighboring scene is of a highly picturesque
character. The fall in the Passaic River, originally 70
feet, (50 feet in the perpendicular line,) has been increased
to about 90 feet by a dam above. From this dam a short
sluice conducts the water into a basin or reservoir, partly
made by art and partly by nature. A causeway has been
raised across an immense chasm, walled in by rocks, pre-
senting almost perpendicular sides from the bottom to the
upper edge of the precipice. The rocks being of basaltic
character, are rectilinear in form and perpendicular in their
position, and this accounts for the comparatively smooth
sides of this immense excavation. Below the causeway
the chasm continues in its natural state and receives the
remaining waters of the river a few rods below. Branch-

SPEIXG8 AND FALLS.

ing off from the larger opening, there is another, running
nearly parallel with the river, which gradually diminishes
to a mere crevice between the perpendicular sides of the
rock. Into this crevice the waters of the Passaic, sudden-
ly turning from their course, leap and dash with an impe-
tuosity converting the whole mass into foam. Seven
miles from Paterson, the river passes through the roman-
tic and picturesque village of Acquackononck, and soon
reaches the immense flats which border the Hudson River
and the Bay of New-York on the Jersey side.

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SEASDE RESORTS.

LONG BEANCH, N. J.

HABiTWiS of the " Branch " become accustomed to the
designations of " The Shore," " The Lower Pole," and
"The Pole." The first is applied to the sea-shore,
skirted by hotels and summer cottages, at a convenient
distance from the beach, upon which, when the white flag
indicates the proper bathing hour, the most grotesque
groups, clad in parti-colored costumes, are congregated,
sporting in the surf with hilarious abandon.

The " Pole " indicates the village of Long Branch, and
at a point where two roads intersect the main village
street, a majestic liberty-pole has been maintained with
laudable patriotism many years. This village, some
two miles from the shore, was founded by the fishermen,
whose humble tenements there found greater protection
from the wintry blasts.

The " Lower Pole," where a humbler pole is erected,
is a collection of houses, within half a mile of the shore,
occupied by the proprietors and others interested in the
hotel and business establishments of the sea-shore, who
are thus conveniently near to look after their interests
during the stagnancy of the bleak winters.

It is well known that Philadelphians formerly drove
to this point, then an Indian camping-ground, for bathing
purposes ; a boarding-house was erected. for their accom-

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

modation, near the present Meiropolita i Hotel ; from tliis
pioneer enterprise gradually spring others, as the increas-
ing demand for accommodation would justify.

This leading resort, some 32 miles from New- York, has
risen to a remarkable degree of fL7or and prosperity. Last
year some 50,000 guests were there during the summer.
The leading hotels pride themselves on their tables and
accommodations, and the bathing arrangements are such,
that years have passed by without a serious accident, al-
though bathers disregard all rules, ofttimes with a sui-
cidal recklessness. Many of the cottages and improved
grounds are elaborate and costly. Some 7.0 new ones
have been erected during +he winter, and some property
has increased in value sixteen-fold in four years, real es-
tate having increased here some $4,000,000, as shown by
the tax lists.

Among some elegant artistic efforts, for which this place
has been drawn upon, is an oil painting by Rosenberg,
" Long Branch by Moonlight ;" the scene being laid at the
bluff fronting the Continental Hotel. It is a gem, and the
largest painting we have seen of any watering-place. A
collection of 100 photographic views of the vicinity, with
letter-press sketches, is also issued for this season. A
map showing the various drives, resorts, cottages, (occu-
pants,) etc., is also announced for 1868, for the assistance
of strangers in their peregrinations.

Hotels. — The largest and principal hotels are, the Me-
tropolitan, Continental, Mansion House, Howland's and
Stetson's, designated in their geographical order. The Me
tropolitan was rebuilt in 1865 by the present firm, of Cooper
& Laird, (Joseph H. Cooper and Samuel Laird.) It is a fine
structure, in L form, located some 300 yards short of the
Sea Shore Railway terminus, with a depot on the premises.

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

Capacity, some 600 guests ; terms, $3 to $5 per day. A
Philadelphia band is engaged for the season.

The Continental Hotel, immediately south of the depots^
was built by the present proprietors, Messrs. Sprague &
Stokes, in 1866, embracing the old National and Congress
Hall hotels, as wings to the new structure, presenting a
solid frontage of 700 feet, with half a mile of galleries. A
portion of the building extends back 250 feet. The dining-
room is 75 by 200 feet, the largest ball-room on the Branch,
if not at any watering-place. The billiard-room has nine
tables. Bowling-alleys, shooting-galleries, brass and string
bands, and other accessories are abundantly provided. Ca-
pacity, 800 guests ; terms, $3 to $5 per day.

The Mansion House was originally built as the pioneer
hotel ; it has been owned and kept by Mr. Samuel Laird
for a number of years ; location, adjoining the Continental
on the south. The house and grounds are well kept up.
The New- York Seventh Regiment band furnishes the
music. Billiard-room in a separate building. Capacity,
some 300 to 400; terms, $4 per day or $25 per week;
usually remains open later than other houses.

Howland's Hotel will be conducted this season by two of
the original proprietors, Messrs. Howland & White, Mr.
Herbert having retired. The original portion of tliis
structure was built over 40 years since. It has been largely
patronized by Philadelphia families of retired dispositions,
by some of them since the first opening. Mr. Howland has
conducted it some 25 years. Capacity, over 300 guests;
prices ranging same as other first-class houses ; location,
north of the Stetson.

The Stetson House is located over a mile south of the
depots, at the farther end of the beach. It was built by a
company in 1866, and leased to Charles A. Stetson^ Jr., & Co.

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

«k!t

It is handsomely furnished ; the appointments are exten-
sive ; a billiard and bar-room, etc., provided in a building
detached from the main structure. The latter is in L form,
presenting two fronts; distinct in appear£fnce from any
other house in having no upper galleries ; rows of tall col-
umns from the ground floor supporting the projecting roof.
Capacity, 600 to 800 ; terms, $5 per day.

Gilmore, of Boston, furnished last year the bands for
this house and the Continental. He will furnish his in-
imitable music this year to the Stetson at least.

The Pavilion Hotel is situated about half a mile south of
the depots, S. C. Morris, proprietor.

The Bath (or Green's) Hotel, formerly located south of
the above, destroyed by fire in the spring of 1867, will not
be rebuilt. Three cottages are erected on the site.

The United States Hotel, a little south of the Mansion,
recently bought by New- York capitalists, has been leased,
and will be open from July 1st.

. The Clarendon, the nearest to the depots, conducted last
year by Jenkinson, (now of the Highlands,) will be con-
ducted by Mrs. Mortimer, who last season had the Cooper
Cottage.

The Atlantic, kept by Cristala, about half a mile north
of the Metropolitan, is largely patronized by those of the
Israelitish faith.

Cooper Cottage, near the Metropolitan, is a popular
boarding-house, with rooms for 100 guests. Samuel Laird,
proprietor. $3 per day, or $17.50 per week.

Charles Jackson's Cottage, on the Pleasure Bay road, cor-
ner Loi)^ Branch avenue, is of a similar character, though
not so large.

These hotels generally open early in jTine, and close
late in September.

SEASIDE EESOETS.

They are all upon tlie beach shores, with bathing-grounds
attached, the principal houses having separate gas-works.
A company has been formed with the intention of erect-
ing public gas-works in time to supply the sea-shore this
summer, and the village in the fall.

The Dunbarton House is located some 4 miles back
from the Branch shore, on a fine prominence, a short dis-
tance from Oceanport Station, kept by Mrs. Downs, of Fifth
avenue, New- York The vicinity abounds in private
boarding-houses, at prices ranging from $8 to $15 per
week, and many private families bring into requisition
every available room during the " season."

At Deal, some five miles south from the railway ter-
minus, are two hotels, Hathaway's having been exten-
sively rebuilt this spring. The bluff does not extend to this
point. With the new buildings, Hathaway will accom-
modate 400 guests. Abner Allen's Hotel accommodates
250 guests. The prices at Deal are moderate, and the
houses keep open through, tho entire season. Telegraph
and post-office at Deal.

Shark River, a short distance beyond Deal, is a pleasant
drive from the " Branch ;" and, during the summer, is the
rendezvous for picnic parties and excursionists, who resort
thither for boating, crabbing, and to sit in judgment upon
the relative excellence of these bivalves and those found
at Pleasure Bay.

FLEASlTBi: BAY.

This is an attractive resort, about a mile north of the
depot, on the Shrewsbury river, for lovers of boating, fish-
ing, and aquatic sports, and where bivalves, crabs, and
shell-fi.sh in considerable variety are found, and served up

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

in a style of cuisine of the first order. The New-York
Hotel is the principal house, built and opened by Isaac P.
Cooper, in 1867. Good accommodation. Rates, $2.50 per
day, or $15 per week. " Old man West," in the imme-
diate vicinity, and Price's Hotel, also afford good entertain-
ment. Open May 1st to October 1st.

Attbactive Points. — The drives are moptly over well-
graveled turnpikes, that skirting the principal bluff being
regularly sprinkled. Mineral Spring is near Oceanville,
a drive of two miles from the Stetson House. The waters
are highly medicinal, as a tonic, one gallon containing
one and a quarter grains of carbonate of iron. These
springs are romantically located, and form a pleasant resort.
A fine park of over 200 acres is being elegantly improved,
with choice shrubbery, etc., and already fo.'ms a splendid
drive upon the bluflf, south of Stetson's, toward Deal.
This has been mapped out, and the improvements de-
signed, in detail, by Olmstead, of the Central Park, New
York. The wrecking station, with life-car, etc., seen upon
the beach in approaching the above park, is well worth a
visit ; and the ofliicer in charge, Mr. Charles H. Green, re-
sides at the old Green homestead "•lard by, and will ex-
plain the modus operandi of the various apparatus. The
grounds of John Hoey, Esq., are on Cedar avenue, a short
distance beyond the Stetson, and are magnificently im-
proved. They are thrown open to the public to as great
an extent as is compatible with the labor necessarily be-
stowed on them. A drive to Eatontown leads past " Tur-
tle Mills," a most picturesque view. The road over the
dam, skirted by willows, the mill-race, and the mill, still
running, though built before the Revolution. Another
fine view is from Newman Springs, in the vicmity of
Eatontown and Shrewsbury. At this point the famed

SEASIDE RESORTS.

irt

Navesink River takes its rise. Nauvoo is a cluster of
fishermen's residences and ice-houses, upon the beach, a
few miles north ot the shore, on the large tract of Dr. A.
V. Conover, who rents it for a nominal sum to the fisher-
men. GifFord, the New- York artist, has made this the
subject of a fine painting. The euphonious designation of
Nauvoo is a synonym for Salt Lake City, probably sug-
gested by the salting of quantities of fish for market. The
return scene on this beach, of the men and boats, is some-
times highly romantic.

Post-Offices, etc. — Branch Shore Post-Office, N. J., is
at the Continental Hotel, and all letters for hotels on the
beach should be so addressed. Telegraph offices at depots,
Continental, Stetson's, and intermediate points.

Hack Hire, etc. — To prevent extortion, a recent ordi-
nance forbids hackmen to charge more than $2 per hour.
Omnibuses charge 25 cents from the depot to any hotel.
Mr. Cooper, of Pleasure Bay, will run an omnibus to his
hotel, irom any point on the beach, for the same price, and
ten cents between different points along the beach.

Base Ball. — This popular exercise is much in vogue at
the shore. The " Sea Sides" have played some very suc-
cessful match games. The " Chelsea Club" is a recent
organization of amateur gentlemen.

Routes to Long Branch. — The oldest and permanent
route is by the Raritan and Delaware Bay Railway by
boat from Pier 32 North River, .it 4 p.m., connecting at
Port Monmouth with trains. Returning, leave Branch
Shore at 7.15 a.m. These trains run throughout the
year. During summer, some four trains eadi way are run.
Boats touch also at Pier 1, North River. Time-tables in
the daily papers. Commutation fare, $90 per annum, or
about $20 per month.

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

Sea Shore Railway. — By this road, whicli runs
during the summer season, boats leave foot of Clarkson
street, connecting at Sandy Hook with trains running
along the shore to the Highlands, and the Long Branch
terminus. From the 15th of June to 15th September,
leave New- York at 10.30 a.m., and 4.00 and 5.15 p.m.
Leave Long Branch at 7.15 A.M., 12.45 and 6.15 P.M.
Fare on either road $1, or $1.50 for the round trip.

HIGHLANDS OF NAVESINK.

These commanding bluffs are upon the line of the Sea
Shore Railway, 24 miles from New- York, or reached by
stage, 7 miles from Highland Station, on the Raritan and
Delaware Bay Railway, some 7 miles from Long Branch.
The Red Bank boats touch at the dock.

Hotels. — Thompson's Atlantic Pavilion is the oldest
and principal house, on a sloping lawn upon the bluff,
looking seaward. The steamboat Stewart, belonging to
the proprietor, conveys guests across the river to the depot
and to the bathing-grounds, for excursions, etc. Opens 1st
June and until late in the fall. Rates of charge, $3 per
day, und lower to families.

Schenck's Hotel is leased by Charles Jenkinson from
Long Branch, and is opened on a much improved scale.
Opening and terms about the same.

Attractions. — The well-known U. S. light-house build-
ing rears its massive towers behind these hotels. The
views from the bluffs are splendid, and the scenery and
walks rugged and romantic. Elegantly improved cottages
are springing up on every side. The Neptune Club House
in this vicinity forms a delightful resort for +he members
and their friends through the summer.

SEASIDE KBSOBTS.

)0t

)er

BED BANK, N. J.

The view of this pretty town, from over the Shrewsbury
River, upon which it is located, is, in the summer season,
one of surpassing loveliness. The environs are attractive,
and afford subjects for many off-hand sketches. Hence it
is the chosen summer residence of Arthur Lumley and
other artists.

The sailii.^, boating, fishing, crabbing, etc., are very fine,
and shell-fish abound in profusion. The river affords salt-
water bathing.

Hotels.— The Globe Hotel, kept by Hendrickson, is a
standard, well-kept house throughout the year. French's
Hotel is at the depot.

The " Riverside " and " Atkins' " are summer houses,
open from June to October. Rates, from $2.50 to $3.50
per day.

Routes. — By the Raritan and Delaware Bay Railway,
on express trains, same time as to Long Branch. Time,
one hour from New- York.

By steamboats Sea Bird and Helen, from Kew-Yorfc,
changing time half-hour each day with the tide. Monthly
time-tables in advance in New-York papers. The distance
is about the same as that of the Highlands.

lorn
lie.

ild-
:he
md
res
tuse
lers

NEWFOBT, ANB SUBBOVNDINGS.

To Newport, the most elegant watering-placo of the
United States, as Saratoga is the most popular, there is a
great variety of routes from New-York City,, the chief dif-
ference in them being according to a traveler's, preference
for the rapid rail journey, a voyage partly by river, or one
by the Sound. The nearest approach to an. all-rail route
begins at Twenty-seventh street depot, New- York, 8 A.M.,

SEASIDE RESORTS.

I 1

^ t

1 \

1 ■• i
f \

and readies Providence in 8 hours by the Shore Line, going
thence to Newport direct by steamboat in 2 hours — a con-
stantly interesting sail. Or one may take the Hartford
boat from Peck Slip, East River, and from Hartford take
the Providence, Hartford, and Fishkill (more properly called
the Boston, Atlantic, and Erie) Railway, 4 hours to Provi-
dence, whence by boat as before. The principal and most
fashionable route, however, is that through Long Island
Sound, by the Fall River Line of steamers, from Pier 28
North River, foot of Murray street. New- York City, 5 r.M.,
to Newport direct, arriving early in the morning. The
boats, which are among the finest on the Sound, are the
Metropolis, Capt. Simmons, and the Ne^vport, Capt. Brown.
Fore, $4; state-room and supper, $1 each. A messenger
of Dodd's Express will call for baggage to go by this line,
hi New- York and Brooklyn, upon notice being left at
offices — foot of Cortlandt street, North River, and 944 Broad-
wtj, New- York, and at No. 1 Court street, Brooklyn.

Arrived at Newport, the visitor finds any number of
stages at the wharf or depot, ready to convey him to a
hotel. The Ocean House is the most fashionable, and the
nearest to the beach, being on Bellevue avenue, corner of
Bowery street., about half a mile up from the wharf. Ca-
pacity for 600 guests ; generally open from June 15th to
September lOtli ; telegraph office in the house ; post-office
near ; New- York and Boston papers always on hand ; table
tolerable ; terms, $5 per day — same by the week or season.
The Atlantic House is situated at the corner of Pelham and
Touro streets, directly opposite Touro Park and the Old
Stone Mill. It is kept by William W. Hazard, assisted by
John Peckham as clerk, and the post-office address is Box
893, Newport, R. I. It will accommodate 250 guests, and
is generally open from May to October. The house is

oing
con-
tford
take
ailed
*rovi-
most
sland
er 28

P.M.,

Tho

'6 tllQ

Irown.
longer
9 line,
.eft at
Broad-

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n to a
id the
ner of
Ca-
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office
table
leason.
|m and
lo Old
Ited by
lis Box
,s, and
use is

i^f

SEASIDK RESORTS.

■■>'•

t-ii:

lighted by gas and licatod by eteara— a very important
item to those who sojourn in Newport. Tlicro is a tolis
graph station near by. The Atlantic House was used by
the Government as a Naval School during? the late civil
war. Always supplied with New- York and Boston papers.
The Aquidneck House is situated at the corner of IVliiam
and Came streets, just below the Atlantic. It is kept by
William Hodges, assisted by B. A. Winslow, as clerk.
Post-office address. Box 777, Newport, R. I. It will accom-
modate 150 guests, and is open the year round. The Pel-
ham Street House is a short distance below the Aquidneck,
at 12 Pelham street ; proprietor, James T. Potter ; Box 770,
post-ofTice address ; open all the year, and will accommo-
date GO persons; terms for the summer of 18G8, $2.50 per
day, and $12 per week. The Perry House is situated
opposite Washington Square, at the head of Long, or
Steamboat Wharf; proprietor, George W. Hodges; Box
784. Tliis house is nearly new, first class, accommodating
150 guests, and is the nearest the railway, wharf, and tlio
business part of the city. Shanahan's Opera-IIouse adjoins
it — the finest theatre, outside of Boston, in New-England,
128 by 50 feet, seating 1000 persons. The prices at the Perry
House are, for the summer, from $3.50 to $4 per day,
according to rooms taken; $15 to $25 per week. In
the winter the charge is $3 per day. The United States
Hotel (George H. Copeland, Box 787) is on the corner of
Thames and Pelham streets, near the Providence boat
landing, in the business section. Capacity, 60 guests;
open all the year; prices from $2.50 to $3 per day.
There are also many large boarding-houses in and near
Newport, which are always well patronized. The most
popular method of living, however, among the leaders of
fashion, has become the dwelling in cottages, purchased or

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

rented for the eummer, and really among the finest attrac-
tions of the place as a summer resort, albeit their increase
has been marked by a falling off in hotel patronage. The
extreme charges of the leading hotels have seriously injur-
ed the popularity of Newport with such tourists as can not
afford time or money for the elegant cottage-life.

The facilities for surf-bathing at Newport are not excelled
by any place in this country. There are three fine beaches,
called Easton's, Sachuest's, and Smith's. Easton's is the
one generally used by the majority; and it is so situated
that there is no danger to the bathers from under-currents,
while the breakers follow each other in majestic succession.
This beach is about half a mile from the principal hotels,
and public conveyances ply regularly to and fro.

The drives about Newport are excellent. In 1867, a new
one was made by the city authorities, commencing at Belle-
vue avenue, near the Ocean House, and continuing south
2 miles; thence west 3 miles, along the shore; thence
north 1 mile ; and thence north-east to Bellevue avenue, 3
miles. The entire drive is 10 miles long, 80 feet vdde, and
is macadamized. It is pronounced the best one in the coun-
try, and some of the finest residences in the city are located
on it. An unobstructed view of the Atlantic Ocean is afford-
ed for nearly the entire length of this road.

Near Sachiiest Beach, at the northern extremity of the
Bluff, is a dark chasm called Purgatory. By actual meas-
urement, the chasm is 160 feet in length ; from 8 to 14 feet
wide at the top ; from 2 to 24 feet wide at the bottom ; 50
feet depth at th(3 outer edge ; and 10 feet of water at low
tide. Near by are the Hanging Rocks, within whose
shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his Minute
Philosopher. The Glen and the Spouting Cave are charm-
ing places to ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond,

Ac^M

SEASIDE RESORTS.

Lcst attrac-
ir increase
age. The
usly injur-
as can not

ot excelled
le beaches,
on's is the
30 situated
jr-currents,
succession,
pal hotels,
>.

1867, a new
\g at Belle-
ling south
re; thence
avenue, 3
wide, and
the coun-
re located
n is afFord-

lity of the
Itual meas-

to 14 feet
lottom; 50
Iter at low
tin whose
ts Minute
ire charm-

Aly Pond,

the largest sheet of spring water on the island, is easily
reached from Spouting Cave. The waters of the pond
swarm with perch.

The city of Newport is so ancient, and once so prominent
a town, that it would be of interest to the visitor, wholly
apart from its present fashionable relations. Indeed, New-
port may be said properly to be two places — an old metro,
polls, and a watering-place ; a^d, like Quebec reversed, it
has its upper, or new town, and its lower, or old town.
The harbor is one of the best and deepest in the world.
The entrance to it is 2 miles in width, 29 fathoms in depth,
and in only one instance has it been closed by ice since the
first settlement. As late as 1769, the city exceeded New-
York in the extent of her foreign and domestic commerce.
In the Revolution, the British long held possession of the
place, during which time (till 1797) the population decreas-
ed from 12,000 to 4000. Among the interesting relics to
be found in the town are : Franklin's printing-press, im-
ported by James Franklin in 1720. It is in the oflBlce
of the Neicport Mercury y established in 1758. Upon this
press the first newspaper issued (1732) was printed. The
Chair of State, in which Benedict Arnold sat at the recej)-
tion of the charter in 1663, is in the possession of the Gould
family. The First Baptist Church, founded in 1638, and
claimed as the oldest church in Rhode Island, is worthy a
\isit.

Newport was the birthplace of the gifted miniature-
painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity
may be seen in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made
two copies of his great Washington picture for Rhode
Island, one of which may be seen in the State-house at
Newport, and the other in that at Providence.

The Old Stone Mill, in Touro Park, opposite the Atlan-

':^

SEASIDE RESORTS.

tic House, is f« curiosity, and is tenderly erred for by the
city authorities. It is sometimes caKed the Hound
Tower. The origin and early history of this "old
mill" is a mystery, and has led to many fruitless
conjectures. Some antiquarians claim for it the honor
of having afforded a secure shelter to tlie Norsemen,
who, they say, built it as a lookout and a tower of de-
fense; but the modern observers deny it this enviable
renown, and maintain that it was built by Governor
Benedict Arnold, the first charter governor of the
colony, who owned the property at the time of his death,
and calls it in his will " my stone-built windmill." Red-
wood Library, near the opera-house, established by Abra-
ham Redwood in 1750, contains one of the very best col-
lections of paintings, choice books, and statuary in the
country. The Jewish Synagogue, on Touro street, was
built in 1672, and up to the Revolutionary War was regu-
larly opened for worship, and was the only place in New-
England where Hebrew was chanted and read weekly.
There were many families of wealthy and influential Jews
in Newport at that time ; now there are none. Abraham
Touro left $20,000 in charge of the town authorities, the
interest to be expended in keeping the synagogue and
grounds, and street leading to it, in repair; and the
wishes of the donor have been carefully complied with.
Besides these places, the visitor should see the Perry
Monument, Commodore Perry's house, built in 1763, and
long known as the " Granary ;" the fortifications in the
harbor. Fort Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the
Dumplings. Fort Adams, on Brenton Point, is one of the
largest works in the United States, mounting 460 guns.

Passing now out of Newport itself, we find ourselves in
the midst of a most interesting and beautiful region.

for by the
he Round

this "old
y fruitless

the honor
Norsemen,
wer of de-
s enviable

Governor
or of the

his death,
ill." Red-
d by Abra-
y best col-
iry in the
street, was

was regu-
e in Ncw-
d weekly,
iitial Jews

Abraham
)rities, the

ogue and
and the

lied with.

he Perry

1763, and

QS in the
and the

ne of the
guns.

•selves in

1 region.

SEASIDE EESORTS.

Half-way between Pro\idence and Newport, the two cap-
itals of great Rhode Island, is Rocky Point, a favorite
resort. Marked Rock is another famous excursion place,
a few miles higher up the bay. It is reached in 40
minutes from Providence by boat. The towns of Warren
and Bristol, across the bay, are each worthy of a visit.
They may both be reached several times a day from Prov-
idence, xia the Warren and Bristol Railway. Mount Hope,
the famous home of the renowned King Philip, the last
of the Wampanoags, is just below Bristol, upon Mount
Hope Bay, an arm of the Narraganset on the east. From
the crown of this picturesque height is beheld a fine pano-
rama of the beautiful Rhode Island waters. In summer-
time, boats ply twice a day on excursion trips from Provi-
dence to various rural points down the bay, charging 50
cents only for the round trip. Rocky Point is the most
favored of all these rural recesses. Thousands visit it in
the course of the season, and feast upon delicious clams,
just drawn from the water, and roasted on the shore in
heated, seaweed, upon true and orthodox "clam-bake"
principles. The hotel is large and well fitted up, with
100 acres of ground, bathing-houses, and an observatory,
about 125 feet above the summit of the hill. Bowling-
alleys, billiard-rooms, pistol- galleries, etc., are on the
grounds, and boarders at the hotel have the use of them
at reduced rates. Proprietors, Messrs. De Camp & Cole.
Rooms for 200 to 400 guests ; prices, $4 per day, $25 for
single persons, and $20 for each of two together, per week.
The city of Providence is beautiful, and a very worthy
place for the tourist to spend a little time in ; but it is
said to be the wealthiest city (proportionately to its popu-
lation) in America, and the self-possession resulting there-
from has hindered the establishing of any hotels worth
the name; the visitor will therefore make the tour of

SEASIDE EESOBTS.

' 5

tlie city to advantage "vvitliin the sunny liours of a single
day. Very moderate accommodation can be had at the
Aldrich House, (new,) near the railway depot, and the
City Hotel, (old,) near Broad street.

The city was founded by Roger Williams in 1G36, and is
the seat of Brown (Baptist) University, a very interesting
place to see. Providence Avas once a very important com-
mercial depot, its rich ships crossing all seas ; and at tlie
present day the city is equally distinguished for its manu-
facturing and commercial enterprise. In the former de-
partment of human achievement it early took the lead,
which it still keeps, the first cotton-mill which was built
in America being still in use in its surburban village oi
Pawtucket; and some of the heaviest mills and print-
works of the Union being now in operation within its
limits. It has also extensive manufactories of machinery
and jewelry.

At Hunt's Mill, three or four miles distant, is a beauti-
ful brook with a picturesque little cascade, a drive to
which is among the morning or evening pleasures of the
Providence people and their guests. Vue de I'Eau is the
name of a picturesque and spacious summer hotel, perched
upon a high terrace 4 miles below the city, overlook-
ing the bay and its beauties for many miles around.

The What Cheer Rock, where Williams landed, on the
shore of a bay in Seekonk River, is a place of much beauty
as well as historic merit.

At Portsmouth Grove the celebrated Rhode Island Coal
Mines are located. The south and main shaft is worked
by the Mount Hope Coal Mine Company. It is worked
down 1265 feet below the surface of the earth, on a slope
of 33 degrees. 15,000 tons of coal are mined annually.
It is supplied with engines and breakers, and with frio-

iH.

~^^**^lSSfiBftb«6

i"imri-iiiri ,\iW-^

*.' ' ' •_ ' * I *»^TtjTTr.yrWn-

SEASIDE RESORTS.

of a single
had at the

it, and the

1G36, and is
interesting
ortant com-

and at tlie
>r its nianii-
former de-
k the lead,

was built

L village oi

and i^rint-

within its

machinery

a beauti-

drive to

ires of the

au is the

, perched

overlook-

md.

id, on the
ch beauty

and Coal
worked
worked
n a slo];)e
nnually,
i^ith frio-

tion gear for hauling of the most improved pattern, and
has a wharf and railway tracks to facilitate shipping.

The north shaft is worked by Messrs. Crocker & Broth-
ers, (Taunton Copper Company,) who have a smelting-works
on the ground and another in Taunton, and they use this
coal exclusively at both places, and consider it the best
for smelting copper and zinc ores. They mine from 8000
to 10,000 tons annually, using about 40 tons par day for
generating steam. This shaft is 600 feet below the sur-
face, on a slope. The quality is constantly improving
and the supply is thought to be inexhaustible.

The coal is a very sharp red ash, possessing a large pro-
portion of carbon, and an entire absence of sulphur. It is
extensively used in stoves and modern furnaces, and is
considered a superior fuel.

A large army hospital was located hero during our late
civil war.

The northern limit of this town is the dividing-line be-
tween Rhode Island and Massachusetts. It is quite a re-
sort during the summer season, and the best of fishing,
boating, and bathing privileges can be obtained. The
Lawton House, seen about a mile from the station, is a
new one, furnished with all necessary modern improve-
ments, and kept in first-class style.

A turnpike road diverges from here toward Seconnet
Point, distant to the south about 13 miles, passing through
Tiverton Four Corners and Little Compton.

The Seconnet River is crossed at Tiverton, opposite the
Lawton House, on a substantial stone bridge, several hun-
dred feet in length, and the railway crosses on a bridge
about 1500 feet long, built in a most improved manner,
with a pivot draw-bridge, and 70 feet of water under it in
the main channel, the whole costing $75,000.

SEASIDE RESORTS.

Tiverton was once noted as the location of tlie battle-
grounds of the Indians in earlier years, and there are
many places that bear aboriginal names in consequence.
The surrounding view from Tiverton Heights is a beau-
tiful one.

The road from Tiverton to Newport, 14 miles, is laid
along the west shore of the island of Rhode Island ;
and an excellent view of Narragansett Bay, with its
islands, is given. This is one of the pleasantest railway
rides in New-England in the summer season.

Fall lliver, north-east from Newport, and the terminus
of the Fall River line of steamboats before communication
by rail was completed, takes its name from a stream by
that name, which here falls into the bay from the east, by
a descent of over 130 feet. This river forms the outlet of
Watuppa Ponds, which lie about 3 miles east of the city,
and from which comes the principal water-power of the
place. Fall River is almost without a parallel in respect
to the union of an extensive hydraulic power with a posi-
tion immediately ujDon navigable water. At its highest
elevation, it is 150 feet above the level of the sea. The
sunset views from here have been pronounced as beautiful
as those of Italy, and the surrounding scenery is thought
to be superior to any in New-England. The harbor is
safe, easy of access, and of sufficient depth for the largest
ships.

Mount Hope is situated on one of the islands across the
bay, and was once the home of the Indian King Philip
and his tribe. Probably in no place in New-England can
be heard so many legends of the Indian tribes, and no-
where are the names of the celebrated chiefs so well
perpetuated.

^^aii^.

F the battle-
d tliere are
jonsequence.
s is a beau-

liles, is laid
ode Island;
y, with its
test railway

;ho terminus

amunication

a stream by

the cast, by

the outlet of

of the city,

(ower of the

il in respect

With a posi-

its highest

le sea. The

las beautiful

is thought

|e harbor is

the largest

across the

ling Philip

Lgland can

5S, and no-

80 well

SEASIDE KESORTS.

THE CONNECTICUT SHOrtE.

STRATFORD, CT.

An early arrival by the boat at New-IIavcn enabled us
to take the first train westward, which in half an hour left
US at Stratford. Tliis village, like nearly all the settle-
mcLts in this part of New-England, was settled early in
the 17th century. The green, or public square, where the
church stands, dates back to about 1750. The quiet streets,
and ancient, towering trees, under which wander the beaten
paths, not strictly lined out, but v.'inding through the
green turf, impress the visitor with a Sunday feeling,
and remind him of English villages, till some ambitious,
heavy-corniced dwelling, erected by some townsman come
home rich from the city, banishes the idea, and recalls the
progressiveness of this " great country." Tliere is no inn
here, and the rule for the wicked stranger who invades
the place is, that he pass on or starve. Our errand carried
us to the shore, and from thence can be seen, and reached
by such as love to go down to the Sound in cockle-shell
boats, a house of resort for fishermen and transient visitorsj
kept by Mr. George Smith— a place which has the appear-
ance of a pleasant sportsman's retreat. The shore here is
flat, marshy, and uninviting, and we being faint with hun
ger, besieged by a legion of fierce and fell mosquitoes, ap-
parently bent on avenging the wrongs of their Indian
predecessors, and obliged to hold our only intercourse at
that eaTly hour with a deaf citizen by writing with chalk
on his door, beat a retreat, and took the next train west-
ward.

FAIRFIELD.

Fairfield, our next stopping-place, lies three miles west

r I

I I

20 SEASIDE BESORTS.

of Bridgeport. The busy streets and glaring piles of brick
wliicli Bridgeport boasts, were passed by without a tear.
But the shady walks, the flowers, the delightful dwellings,
with their lawns and gardens, the air of quiet refinement
at Fairfield, might well tempt the weary traveler to stop
and seek repose. He would not bo disappointed under
the quiet, hospitable roof of the Fairfield House, where
mine host is capable and kind, and the table is certain to
please. Fairfield has one of the finest bathing beaches on
the Sound. It lies within half a mile of the village, and
the sea-view from it is limitless and ocean-like. The
neighboring country is gently rolling, liighly cultivated,
and affords beautiful drives. Like many New-England
villages, peaceful Fairfield has its history of blood and
terror. The infamous Tryon attacked and burned the
whole place in July, 1779. We copy from Dr. Dwight's
graphic description the following : " While the town was
in flames, a thunder-storm overspread the heavens, just as
night came on. The conflagration of near 200 houses
illumined the earth, the skirts of the cloud, and the waves
of the Sound, with a union of gloom and grandeur. The
sky speedily was hung with the deepest darkness, wher-
ever not tinged by the melancholy lustre of the flames. At
intervals, the lightnings blazed with a vivid and terrible
splendor. The thunder rolled along, and beneath, the
roaring of the fires filled up the intervals with a deep and
hollow sound. Add to this, the sharp sound of muskets
occasionally discharged, the groans here and there of the
wounded and dying, and the shouts of triumph ; then place
before your eyes crowds of miserable sufferers, mingled
with bodies of militia, and from the neighboring hills
taking a farewell prospect of their property and their
dwellings, their happiness and their hopes — and you will

iJLLJZJL^J g's^^gfti'^"'*'

SEASIDE RESORTS.

fonn a just but imperfect picture of tlio burning of
Fairfield."

As the present court-house and church were built to
resemble the old ones as nearly as possible, the village
green presents much the same api^earance as in 1779.

SAVIN KOCK, NEAE NEW-HAVEN.

Savin Rock is a popular summer resort, especially ■with
New-Haven people. There is a pleasant hotel called the
Rock House, accommodating 130 guests. It is four miles
southward of New-Haven, and a mile from the New-Haven
Depot on the New- York and New-Haven Railway. During
the summer, stages run hourly between New-Haven and
the Rock House. Telegraph station at the house. Messrs.
Burgess & Renshaw are the proprietors, to whom all
letters should be addressed at New-Haven. Prices from
$15 to $25 per week.

OTJILFOBD.

We now returned eastward, the many trains on the New-
Haven Railway enabling us to go at almost any time, and
proceeded by the Shore Line as far as the ancient town of
Guilford, which, like Stratford, dates from about 1639,
and where is or was, recently still standing in good repair,
a stone house built in 1640. In this building was solemn-
ized the first marriage in the town, and a sumptuous wed-
ding supper was provided of pork and peas

The Sea-Side Hotel here is on the shore, half a mile from
the railway. It is a roomy and pleasant building, with a
noble piazza or porch, and a good lawn. The host is fully
impressed with the gravity of his position as commandant
of the central spot around which, in his view, New-England
revolves. The company is agreeable and somewhat fash-

I !

SEASIDE KESORTS.

ionablo, and doubtless slicds additional lustra upon mino
host, thus enhancing the splendor of his naturally lofty
position. The country here is flat and uninteresting, and
the bathing inconvenient, being upon a stony and muddy
bottom.

The Guilford Point House is kept by the veteran Capt.
Hunt. Accommodations for 100 guests, from June 20th to
September 20th. Telegraph oflice at the railway station,
half a mile distant. Trains from New-IIaven at 7.30 and
11.30 A.M., and 4 and 7 r.M. Hotel terms, $3 per day, $18
per week. Fine fishing, sailing, driving, and a host of
pretty girls, combine to make the place irresistible. If you
doubt it, skeptic, start bo?dly forth some Saturday after-
noon, as did your humble servant, and return a champion
of ito excellences.

There was, till within a few years, a fine hotel at Sa-
chem's Head in this town, which was destroyed by fire.
The name was derived from the execution by the cele-
brated IJncas of a captive Pequot chiet, whose head was
cut off and placed in the crotch of a large oak here, where
the skull remained for many years.

BRANFORD AND INDIAN POINT.

We next took a return train to Branford, which is a
centre from which at least half a dozen different resorts
may be visited. There is the Double Beach House with
its magnificent old oak, known for half a century back as
one of the finest trees in this vicinity, and its pretty little
isthmus of sand, washed on both sides by the clear waters,
and leading to a picturesque rocky and shady knoll, whence
a broad and lovely view of the sail-dotted Sound is to be
had, tempting you to linger there for hours.

The Double Beach House, F. B. Linsley, proprietor, is

( s\

SEASIDE PwESO^wTS.

TO upon mino
[iturally lofty
;crestinp, and
y and muddy-
veteran Capt.
Juno 20tli to
Iway station,
n. at 7.30 and
per day, $18
id a host of
tible. If you
turday after-
i a champion

hotel at Sa-
yed by fire,
by the cele-
le head was
here, where

which is a
pent resorts
[ouse with
iry back as
|)retty little
3ar waters,
^11, whence
id is to be

)prietor, is

quite near the Branford Point House, and is a very ^ocd
point for lovers of fishinrr. It has accommodations for
100 guests, and is open from January to the 1st of Oc-
tober. The post-oifico address is Branford, Ct. This is
not one of the hip^h-priced houses. Terms, $3 per day,
$17.50 per wci*k. S[)lendid place for youn*? men fond of
yachting and fishing. Route, New- York and New-IIaven,
and New-Haven and New-London Railways.

There is the Monteveso, a new hotel standing on the
shore, with a fine beach running immediately in frojit, and
which is, we believe, as airy and well-kept a house as might
be wished, though it has the draw-back of being destitute
of shade-trees. There is Pino Orchard, noted for the excel-
lence with which the Sheltons serve up their sea food, and
which is a quiet little house, usually occupied for the sea-
son by permanent boarders. There are tho small hotels
at Stony Creek, to be reached also more easily from tho
station of that name, and which are favorite resorts for tho
people from inland Connecticut. Tho pleasant house kept
by N. C. Frink, at Indian Point, deserves more than passing
notice. Though his buildings and rooms are small, his
activity and efforts to make his guests enjoy themselves
are unbounded. This is the best i^lace to go to for a few
days of rowing or sailing among the numerous picturesque
islands which form the groups laid down as the Thim-
bles, and which afford a specimen of scenery unique in
this part of the country so far as I know. In one of these
is a secure harbor, (iuite concealed by high rocks and trees
from the view of any one passing ahmg the Sound, and
large enough for several small vessels to lie in. It was a
resort of Kidd, the pirate, who lay there ready to pounce
upon the unsuspecting vessels "as they sailed, as they
sailed," and whither, when pursued, he could retreat, and

SEASIDE RESORTS.

suddenly disappear from his enemy as if swallowed up l)y
the waves. Like all of Kidd's haunts, the islan 'g have
their legends of buried treasure anionjj the rocks. They
ore now much frequented by lovers of black-fishing and
duck-shooting', and the bay of Stony Creek has long been
famous for its exceedingly fine oysters and other shell-fish,
of which the guests of Mr. Frink Avill have abundant op-
portunity to judge. Deponent can speak with knowledge
of the sweetness of the small lobsters, and the magnificent
grandeur of the great Stony Creek oysters. A word to the
wise, etc.

Finally, let us introduce the " forlorn and weary brother "
for whom these jottings are intended, to the spot of all oth-
ers where he will find panacea for all his ills. At the head
of the rocky-shored and island-sprinkled bay of Branford,
ho who is lucky enough to get his first view from the wa-
ter will observe a long, irregular row of white buildings,
sharply relieved against a background of hills and trees.
As he approaches, he will see a large covered saloon or
pavilion, centrally placed in the building, open on both
sides to give easy passage to the ever fresh sea breeze, and
tenanted by provokingly cool and comfortable-looking per-
sonages. Hastening to land, ho will perceive numerous
sa. .-boats of all sizes, kept by sundry bold if not ancient
mariners, for the amusement of the visitors. A billiard-
room, a bowling-alley, a croquet-ground, a fine grove, lawn,
and flower-garden, and, not least of all, a kitchen- garden,
"which promises varied and abundant provender enough
for the most rigid vegetarian, next meet his gaze, and
cause his features to relax from the knitted frown of obser-
vation to the complacent smoothness of satisfaction. As
he joins the group of cool and happy ones in the open
saloon, he is aware of a magnificent view of Branford Har-

^laH^

" ««* "r "ipni,!" •• "

SEASIDE RESORTS.

1 lowed lip l)y
islan 's Imvo
rocks. Tlicy
i-fishin^ and
as long been
lor shell-fish,
ibundant op.
I knowledge
magnificent
. word to tliG

iiy brother "

ot of all oth-

At the head

of Branford,

rom the wa-

3 buildings,

and trees.

saloon or

en on both

Drceze, and

poking per-

numerous

lot ancient

A billiard-

ove, lawn,

en-garden,

r enough

gaze, and

1 of obser-

ition. As

the open

ford Har-

bor, boand(Hl by low, wooded hills, spocked with rocky
islets, and stretching out beyond into the ocean-like ex-
pause of the blue, glittering Sound. White sails flit across
the rippled surface, and far oft* appear and vanish, as if seek-
ing the isles of the blest. The breeze freshens, the S(^a
darkens, ever-changing cloud-shapes vary and adorn the
Bky, and the declining sun begins to cast a roseate splendor
over the water, like the bloom of the gardens of P.'Viu iso.
Move not, until he sinks into darkness, and moonlight sil-
vers all the sea ! The flood of light is thrown in a broad
pathway far out upon the watery waste — and one weird-
looking sail of some homeward-bound vessel glides through
it like a ghost. You watch it with half-unconscious inter-
est ; it seems to lead and beckon you into a dreamy reverie,
until, when you lose it in the distance, you turn away with
a sigh that such moments come but seldom in life, or rather
that we so seldom are in tone to appreciate the beauty and
suggestiveness which Nature is continually flinging broad-
cast before us.

On this charming spot is the Branford Point House, kept
by Mr. King, so long and well known to the citizens of
New-Haven as an accomplished and attentive landlord.
For the past two years he has been gradually improving
and embellishing this place, until it is now one of the
pleasantest retreats on the coast, and has gained a reputa-
tion which, as is testified by his need of constant enlarge-
ment, is advancing year by year. Here we ended our day
of wandering, somewhat distracted by the diverse attrac-
tions before us, but in a mood fully appreciative of them
all, and can sincerely recommend those who delight in
boating, bathing, sea-views, shady walks, or a cool loung-
ing spot while the dog-star rules, to follow our example.

The Branford Point House is 8 miles from New-Haven,

SEARTUE EESOrwTS.

cast of the city, and is reached by cars on the New-London
and New-Haven Railway, which runs within a mile of the
hotel, or by stages from New-Haven. It will accommo-
date 200 guests, and has long been a favorite resort
with persons residing in all parts of the country. Prifcos,
per week, $12 to $25. The post-office address is Branford,
at which place there is also a telegraph station. Trains
leave New-Haven at 6.40, 10.5j, 3.15, G.05 and 11.15. Ex-
cclleiit fishing and boating. Qood i)lace for families.

1 i

INDIAN NECK.

This is a cozy little resort, 5 miles from Branford Station.
There are several pleasant boarding-houses, but no hotel.
Accommodations for 50 guests at the Indian Neck House.
A charming place for bathing and boating, and very quiet.
Families will find it a desirable resort. Address Benjamin
E. Goodrich, Indian Neck, Branford, Ct. Price, $10 per
week.

East-Lyme, or "Niantic." This pretty village, gene-
rally known as NiantiCy is delightfully situated in full
view of the Sound, on Niantic Bay, at the mouth of Ne-
hantic (or Niantic) River. A long, narrow peninsula, upon
which the railway is constructed, lies between the latter
and the former, which are united by a narrow channel,
spanned by the railway bridge. It is a popular place of
summer seaside resort, for fishing, bathing, etc.

NEW-LONDON.

New-London is the favorite among all the summer re-
sorts on the Sound, its nearness to Providence, Hartford,
New-Haven, Boston, and New- York, rendering it very ac-
cessible. Tlie plying of the steamers between here and

vf^samrnmsmmm

SEASIDE EESORT^.

' ^^ew-London
a mile of tlie
ill accommo-
vorite resort
itry. Prices,
I is Branford,
ion. Trains
11.15. Ex-
milies.

brd Station.
It no hotel,
eck House,
very quiet.
3 Benjamin
e, $10 per

ige, gene-
id in full
ith of JS'e-
sula, upon
■lie latter
channel,
place of

imer re-
artford,
I'ery ac-
re and

the metropolis, in connection with the railway to all points
in and out of New-England, also aid to popularize New-
London.

A Stagnant Town. — *' New-London," writes Junius
Browne, " is a stagnant old town that imagines it has three
or four or five thousand inhabitants, but which does not
seem to have more than half as many. Nothing moves
there except the fish and the boats in the harbor. The
natives, who loiter around corner groceries and fish -stalls,
live so somnolently that, when any thing happens, they
pinch themselves to determine if they are awake. The
restlessness of the American character does not belong to
them. Believing they have done their work in being
born, they leave affairs to the guidance o-f Clotlio and
her sisters. Catching fish and eating them comprehend
the whole of existence ; and sitting in the shade and smok-
ing, the highest luxuries they long for.

" We have an esoteric conviction that New-London was
one of the antediluvian villages, which was at the time of
the Cataclysm too lazy to drown, and consequently floated
off to the far West, and, after centuries of aqueous con-
tinuance, lodged against a point of Connecticut, at the
mouth of the Thames -River, and has remained there ever
since."

Patronage of the Hotel. — The Pequot, with its 8
cottages, will accommodate about 500 persons, and has
generally 300 within its boundaries. A number of fami-
lies are usually here from New- York. The price of board
at the Pequot is $5 per day, which is very willingly paid,
with liberal outlays for " extras," by those who think they
obtain " exclusivencss," and value it as the immediate
jewel of their serenely complacent souls.

The other houses of summer resort are the Ocean, on

SEASIDE RESORTS.

tlie otiier side of tlie harbor, and Thompson's, further up
the river, in Groton. They are said to be well patronized,
but not by New-Yorkers. They make no such pretension
to fashion as the Pequot, which entirely ignores their ex-
istence.

The villages and cottages about New-London are very
beautiful, but would appear better if they had less the
air of being starched every morning and ironed out every
night. Several on the Harbor road we have never seen
surpassed for elaborate completeness and artificial pre-
cision. Men are employed to roll the grass and gravel-
walks constantly, place every pebble in its place, and clip
every green blade which, after microscopic inspection, is
one hundredth of an inch above its fellow.

Edwin Booth, William Stuart, and other New-Yorkers
have cottages here.

BOCKY POINT.

The Point is pleasant and cool-looking, and the opportu-
nities for bathing and fishing are excellent. A number of
people from New-England, New- York State, and the West,
gather here to spend the summer, prefer -r :» the quiet and
informality, the grateful insouciance ui' . i^; Point, to the
greater gayety, the fashionable display, and the rigid
social exactions of Newport and Saratoga.

STONINGTON

is of course not changed. It looks exactly as it did twenty
years ago. Indeed, no one would believe the staid inha-
bitants of the place had moved in that time. They might
have slept, for all they have done in developing or improv-

mn^vM

SEASIDE RESORTS.

n's, further up
ell patronized,
ich pretension
Lores their ex-

idon are very
liad less the
led out every
e never seen
irtificial pre-
and gravel-
ice, and clip
nspection, is

rew-Yorkers

le opportu-
number of
the West,
quiet and
int, to the
the rigid

d twenty
lid inha-
7 might
improv-

ing their old-fashioned village. The glory of Stonington
is in the past. It looks backward for its fame, and to the
present and all the future for its drowsy content. The
motto of Metternich, Quieta non mover e, is adopted here,
and ^ever will be altered.

Stonington was settled in 16G0, or thereabout, and forty
or fifty years ago was an important commercial and trad-
ing point. Its whaling interests were next to those of
Newport, and for a long while it enjoyed a monopoly of
sealing. Men now living went to the Shetlands on threa
years' voyages, in vessels of 40 or 50 tons.

Its present population is less than 4000, augmented
by a few hundreds every summer, and not likely to in-
crease during the present century. There is a good deal
of private wealth here, mostly in the hands o'f retired
whale and seal-men ; and the town can boast of a number
of handsome residences. Stonington has, like most New-
England villages, white, gable-ended, green-shuttered,
cool-piazzaed houses, with shrubbery and pleasant grounds
about them, relieved by small, time-worn frame tenements,
Buffering from architectural marasmus.

The hotels are three, the Wadawanuck, Tremont, and
Steamboat House, though the last two are very small, and
patronized only by transient people. The Wadawanuck
is the only hotel worthy the name ; is comfortable and
pleasantly situated, occupying an entire square with its
inclosing grounds, which are handsomely laid out. Tho
piazzas are broad, the table is very good, and the chambers
are plain, but neat and airy.

The Wadawanuck accommodates about 150 persons
with entire convenience, but can increase the number to
200 if necessary. The price of board is $3.50 per day, and
tho patrons of the hotel are mostly families who come hero

A7V.;,t> --r^y l^-JJfcM'

4 :l

SEASIDE EESOlfiTS.

None Of the features of a felLoir
are visible here. Those who vMo • ^''^'"^"g-Place life

to &d their pleasures in each If 7,°" '"^^ "-V'^^tei
«! riding, fislUng, and talkW ' '"'' '''"^''- ^««f»<="on

Captain R F t

Warren-Stanton, X^-Si cS' ^.^''"''^^^PWa.
liams, and Eph«.in» P. William gt^Tr ^'"^'' ^- ^^^1"
^nie residences in Stonington ''°'' ^'^^'^ I"^d-

IfABBAGAWSETT PffiH, B. I

Narragansett Pier in e„ ^i t-.

Of the sea-shore at thrnfoTh JT *°"' ^^ '' ^'*-*«^
about one hour's sail fromTwport TT''" ^''^' """i
- watering-place for over twen7y:l'"^ ''^^" ''»-- -

At first the patronage was liJuT
■nodations, there being at Ztf' "^ ^'"^ '^^ «<=<=o«-
tog-house, Benjamin lldwe n '"* °°'' ^'^^''^^ ^o-^^'

became more gineralirtnlwn 07"'*°'- ^' "^ P'"<=e
tion to the business wWchT " ^""""^ ""'^ ^ttea-

« few years. At prlluw ''^"'^ ^""'^''^^^ within
tog-houses, each aceommXlT"' ^'^'^ ^""^ '^"-'I-
besides a number of c^l"? T,'' *" '"^ ^"««t«.
femilies. A new hotel isTn^ ^^""^ *« ^-^"ted by
Matthewson & Vrn-it^rnlT' """"" ""' ^^^^
't the coming season The d ^'"" '"*'""''" *° °Pen
«tiU exceeds the supply L fa'ran '"" ''<=— "''ations
"^d many have purch^^d iir'^'^ '' '""^ ^''"^'^ "^""wn,
—er residences. aZJZ^:^:^'' '" ^^^'='»'-
t-oned a splendid beach for batll T "'^ ^' '^<^^-

SEASIDE RESORTS.

water deepens gradually, which, with an absence of strong
currents, renders it perfectly safe. Excellent fishing from
rocks or boats, while the adjacent country affords many
pleasant drives and rambles. Narragansett Pier Post-OfRco
has recently been established, at which mails are received
twice daily. Any of the hotels are within twenty min-
utes' walk of the beach. Telegraph station at Kingston
Depot. It is accessible from New- York by steamboat
(from Pier No. 34, North river) to Stonington, thence by
gjtonington Railway to Kingston, or by the " Shore Line"
Railway, (from corner Twenty-seventh street and Fourth
avenue,) stopping at Kingston. From Boston there are
several trains daily, via Providence. Stages connect at
Kingston with every train. The price of board for the
coming season will be from $13 to $15 per week for single
rooms, and from $25 to $30 per week for double rooms,
according to size and number of occupants.

HOTELS.

NAME OF PROP'r.

No.

Prices for Rooms

NAME OF UOUSK.

WHKN OPEN.

Single

Double.

Harlwen House

Benj. Iladwen..,

$15 00

$25to$30

In June.

Narragansett "

Esbon Taylor..,.

15 00

25 00

July to October.

Revere "

Jas. II. Rodman.

15 00

24 00

June 15 to Oct. 15

Whaley "

Wra. E. Whaley..

July to Oct.

Sea View "

Wm. J. Browning

12 50

25 00

June to Oct.

Atlantic "

Abijah Browning

15 00

25 00

June to Oct.

Mettatoxet "

John H. Caswell

16 00

25 OJ

June to Oct.

Atwood "

Joshua C. Tucker

175

June.

Mansion "

W. G. Caswell. . .

15 00

June to Oct.

Applications to any of the above-named proprietors
should be addressed to Narragansett Pier Post- Office,
Washington county, R. I.

SEASIDE EESORTS.

EAST-^AMFTON, LONG ISLAND.

Of places which the blase tourist or the invalid covets most ;
where there are no hotels nor hops ; to which Mr. Potiphar
doesn't find " all the parvenus going," and consequently
doesn't rush himself; where there are tombstones two
hundred years old, and a similar quaintness pervading
every thing ; where nobody knows enough to keep a hotel,
but every body will entertain "company," (at $10 per
week ;) of such places East-Hampton, on the Long Island
coast, is one. There is capital surf-bathing at fifteen
minutes' distance from the town. The means of access
are by steamboat River Queen, Peck Slip, to Sag Harbor,
L. I., thence by stage six or seven miles over a j^leasant
road ; or by th§ Long Island Railway, from foot of Atlantic
street, Brooklyn.

PATCHOGTTE, L. I.

Long Branch in its success, and Newport in its desola-
tion, have had their share of attention; but, Patchog. 3,
thy praises at last will be sung. Go to the Long Island
depot, and procure a ticket for Medford, where do you find
the stage which will take you thither, 4 miles, for 40
cents. There are two lines ; but ask for Sill's stage. Sill
is huge ; Sill weighs two hundred and fifty avoirdupois.
When he gets upon his seat, it bends — it cracks ! But he
is clever, and it is a pleasure to ride in a comfortable stage.
The ride to Patchogue is a pleasant one, through the
woods all the way. There are two or three pretty good
hotels in the place ; but if you can get in, go to Mrs.
Willett's. When you see her, you will say "Grandmo-
ther" in spite of yourself. Her house is a farm-house,
large and roomy, with nice, old-fashioned bedsteads, and

MMIIi

■asm

SEASIDE RESORTS.

sucli linen as you will find only in New-Enc^lantl and Pat-
cliogue. But the food ! Such delicious coffee and cream—
Buch frcfsh vegetables ! Such fresh fish — as blue-fi^h and
other members of the finny tribe — such clam fritters ! and
so might we go on ad infinitum. But go and eat for your-
selves, and remember us who told you the good news.

Patchogue has about 3000 inhabitants. It has the look
of a Xew-England village, and the people are like New-
England people. This charming little village is about
three quarters of a mile from the water. But you have
no need that wo should tell you of the bay which runs
from one end of Long Island to the other. The bay is
about four miles wide, and wlien you cross the sand-bar,
whion is, perhaps, 200 yards across, you come to the ocean.

Go down about the middle of August and Captain Dan
will take you out blue-fishing. That's fun, you know. As
you know, Mrs. Oakes Smith, the distinguished writer,
lives here, and is much respected and liked.

LA TOURETTE HOUSE, BERGEN POINT.

Within half an hour's distance of the Empire City lies
a charming little watering-place, Bergen Point, to wit,
which is unknown and undreamt-of by the general throng
of i)leasure-seekers, and which consequently may be said
to "waste its sweetness on the desert air." The place has
many advantages of scenery and location to recommend it,
besides its sea-side situation. It is buried in the pictu-
resque woods of New-Jersey, is easy of access, and has
such genial, invigorating air, that it is a wonder it has re-
mained so long unknown, and, like the happy valley of
Rasselas, enjoyed only by a favored few. The ride down
by road, either by the New-Jersey Central Railway, or the
" dummy engine," or again by the best means of all, a fast

■
1.

i.V

SEASIDE RESORTS.

team, propares one for tlio thorough quietness and seclu-
sion of the Point. The plank-road alonof 'tlio sea-shore
is the most picturesque route of all. It winds all along
the many curvatures of tlie Jersey shore ; here it goes
awhile inland ; again it skirts the marshy flats ; and then
again it runs close hy the water, and one is enabled to
have a delightful view of the Bay of New- York and the
wood-crowned steeps of Staten Island.

Tlia best charm of Bergen Point, however, is its hotel,
which is unlike most of the country shanties usually digni-
fied with that title. No exorbitant charges frighten the
visitor away after he has jjerused that interesting docu-
ment, his first week's bill ; and the landlord, Dr. Armena,
understands the difficult art of playing "mine host " with
ease and propriety. La Tourette House, the hotel mansion,
is a fine, rambling structure, situated at the very apex of
the Point, and looking down on the Kill Van Kidl and
over Staten Island. It is surrounded with trees, and stands
in its own grounds like a. private gentleman's residence.
The hotel makes up 300 beds, and has accommodation for
nearly 600 visitors, including the scenic lot, " men, women,
and children," although the ladies ought, in deference, to
be placed first. This spot is so retired and shut out from
the world that one is forcibly reminded of Horace's praise
of a country life, and is irresistibly led to the conclusion
that here only can one enjoy that charmed existence —
8oUcitm jucunda oUivia vitm — " a sweet forgetfulness of the
ills of life." Bergen Point can be reached by water as
well as by land, to wit : Two boats, the Magenta, from
the foot of Barclay street, and the Red Jacket, from Liber-
ty street, run hither twice a day, and only occupy half an
hour in conveying the country-seeking Manhattanese to
this blissful oasis of comfort and retirement.

*;.^^-,.L^

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SEASIDE RESORTS.

STATEN ISLAND

Is one of the most beautiful spots, with its sea-girt shores,
hills, splendid villas and cottages, to visit in this region.
In natural beauties it strongly resembles the famed Isle of
Wight, the favorite summer residence of the Queen of Eng-
land. The island is only a few miles from the city, and
reached every hour by steamers, its most distant landing
requiring not much over GO minutes.

The Quarantine boats start from the foot of the Battery,
commencing as early as sunrise, making several landings on
the east side of the island. These all connect with a shore
horse-railway, running down to the harrows, where has
been recently built perhaps the most admirable United
States fort on the coast, protecting the lower and upper
bay and its main channel. Very few finer prospects of
land and ocean can be found in any region finer than
from this high bluflT. There are located along the banks
some of the finest country residences of New- York citi-
zens, the A spin walls foremost. Private and public board-
ing-houses are to be found, with churches and good schools.
At the middle (Quarantine) landing commences the Staten
Island Railway, running through its whole distance of 12
or 14 miles to the terminus opposite Perth- Amboy, with
which it connects, by a new steamboat, in a few minutes.
This road passes through the most cultivated farming
region of the island, on the south side, keeping the mag-
nifi,cent Lower Bay in view nearly all the time, and distant
Sandy Hook with its lights, and the bold hills of Mon-
mouth. Tottenville, at the end of the road, is a very
beautiful, growing village, with fine fishing, oysters, and
bathing. Fare, 25 cents each way. We know of no more
pleasant trip than this. To extend it a little, cross over
to Amboy and take the railway back to the city, passing

i,f':

SEASIDE RESORTS.

I II

* i\\

\ i

1 1

ii I

tlironnrli Woodbridgo, "Railway, Elizabeth, and Jersey City,
in a coiiplo of liourH. From Tottenville, once or twice a
day, steamboats also run to New- York, and at times con-
nect with Keyport, N. J. Near Tottenville stands the old
Billop House, well worth a visit. It is a hi<?h, prominent
stone edifice, now very venerable. Its associations arc
very interesting. Col. Billop was the British militia officer
of the island during the Revolution, and in this house, after
the unfortunate battle on Long Island, Lord Howe met a
deputation from Congress, to consult about the national
quarrel. Franklin and Rutledge were among them. Hero
they met, did nothing but talk, and dismissed. The old
mansion has remained unaltered ever since — a privilege
■which all old famed houses can not boast.

The ferry-boats to the north shore of the island leave
hourly, from the foot of Dey street, by steamers Huguenot,
Thomas Hunt, and Pomona ; fare, 13 cents ; passage within
the hour. The landings are, New-Brighton, Snug Harbor,
Factoryville, Port Richmond, and Mariner's Harbor, each a
mile or two from its neighbor. For a short sail over the
fine bay and its unrivaled scenery, no trip is easier made
or more charming, and thousands enjoy it. New-Brighton
is a popular spot, with its fine houses and extensive hotels,
and these are immensely patronized. The horse-railway
is now being finished, connecting the Narrows with a point
opposite Elizabeth Port, N. J., and following the winding
shore of this lovely island the whole way.

The Sailors' Snug Harbor is a pleasant walk from New-
Brighton, and one of the noblest institutions of any land.
There are some 300 old seamen, supported for life, if they
wish, from the liberal legacy of a Scotchman who died years
ago in New- York City. The buildings and grounds, embrac-
ing 40 acres, have been expensively improved. The farthest

I \

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ii'

Arched Eocks, Lake Superior.

I •

I •• . f >

SEASIDE KESOrwTS.

lan(lin«jr on tlio north yido of tlu/ island is nt the iionor Pier,
not fur from ]-]lizabotli Port, and op[)()sit« Xtnvark Bay and
its lipfht-liouscs. Tliis i)oint is readied by the steamer
Kod Jack(;t twice a day on her way to tlio Central liailway
depot at Elizabeth Port, and this forms a connection be-
tween the island and that point for passenrrcrs or vehicles.
Mariner's Harbor is tho last landin*? of the North Shore
steamers. Before tho Long Pier is reached, there is tho
Willow Grove Hotel, (German,) a popular pic-nic ground
directly on the shore, with fine oysters and fishing. The
long bridge of the Central Railway spanning Newark Bay
is directly in front view, and is one of the most perfect
works of the kind to be found anywhere.

The north side of the island can also be reached now by
the Central Xew- Jersey Railway, from the foot of Liberty
street. On the way to Elizabeth it stops at Bergen Point,
and thence you can cross the Kills to Port Richmond. In
tho evening this new route may be used later than tho
boats. The Newark and Elizabeth steamers also stop at
Bergen Point. The steamboat for Rossville and Totten-
ville at the west end leaves the foot of Murray street twico
daily. There are no steamboat landings on the south side,
owing to its exposed condition on the lower bay.

There are few rides and drives so fine as those on tho
island for variety and loveliness of scenery. It is only
about a dozen miles long and from 3 to 5 broad, divided by
a ridge of hills running east and west. On the north sido
the visitor enjoys the variegated view^s of the ever-moving
panorama of the Kills, and its sails and steamers, with the
far-distant spires and masts of New- York, and the nearer
at Newark and Elizabeth. The majestic hills and moun-
tains of New-Jersey bound the far-ofi'view. Then turning his
horses toward the south, and climbing the gentle ridge, in

:»

1 .It

SEASIDE RESORTS.

half an hour the tourist reaches the summit level, and the
view becomes at once entirely changed. Now, you have the
land and water, the Lower Bay, Sandy Hook and its lights,
the Highlands of Navesink, Coney and Long Islands, with
their shining white sand, the hills of Monmouth on the west,
t^nd following them, at last the eye takes in the distant
magnificent Atlantic. We know no region like Staten
Island which thus strikingly unites inland and water and
sea views within its own borders, so easily accessible.

CONEY ISLAND AND VICINITY

Is distant from the Battery, New- York, 10 miLs, by steam-
boat during the summer season, and from Fulton Ferry,
Brooklyn, about the same distance, bystreet-cars to Green-
w^ood Cemetery, 4 miles, and thence by " dummy" train to
Coney Island, 6 miles, passing through Bath and New-
Utrecht. Also by street-cars from Fulton Ferry, ma Prospect
Park and Coney Island Plank-Road. The island is formed by
the Atlantic Ocean on the south and east and Coney Island
Creek on the north, which runs from Gravesend Bay, about
2 miles above Fort Hamilton, in New- York Harbor, to
Rockaway Inlet, to the east, and is 5 miles in length. The
island is about 4:^ miles long by about one half wide in its
extreme width. Sandy Hook is a little south of west, 10
miles distant. Sheep's Head Bay is about 2 miles to
the eastward. Coney Island is noted for the " best beach
on the Atlantic coast," ard its proximity to New- York
makes it a popular place during the summer months.
There is an unbroken view of the ocean. There is but
one hotel of any pretensions, but several smaller ones,
where clam and fish dinners are served, and good bathing
privileges can be enjoyed near all of them.
Felter's Hotel is situated on the eastern end of the

iMMiiiiHiiii

SEASIDE EESOKTS.

I, and the
■ have the
its ligJits,
nds, with
the west,
e distant
e Staten
'ater and
ble.

y steam-
i Ferry,
) Green-
train to
Kew-
rospect
medby
Island
about
5or, to
The
in its

3St, 10
[es to
beach
York
>nths.
but
ones,
hing

the

island, 3 miles from the boat-landing, and close by the
depots of both railway lines. It is near the beach, and has
an excellent garden and 3 acres of i)lay-ground attached.
Also bowling-alleys, billiard-rooms, and stabling for 100
horses. The house contains 80 rooms, furnished in first-
class style, and has large parlors and reception and dining-
rooms, and claims a first-class table among its attractions.
The view from the verandas surroimding the house is a
splendid one, and takes in New- York Bay, Staten Island,
and the Atlantic Ocean to the front, and the environs of
Brooklyn to the rear. Bass and blue-fish are numerous in
th^ Bay, and also in the creek which helps to form the
island, where weak-fish and soft-shell crabs are also found
in plenty. The drives from the islai.d are mostly over
plank-roads, while that on the beach, for 3 miles, is^ex-
cellent. Fort Hq,milton is 5 miles distant ; Sheep's Head
Bay, 4 miles ; Flatbush, 5 miles ; Prospect Park, Brook-
lyn, 6 miles. The house is open from May 1st to the last
of Octol)er, 18G8. Price, per day, $3.50 ; per week, 821.
Samuel W. Felter, proprietor.

Pavilion Hotel, west end of Coney Island, 9i miles from
Fulton Ferry, and about 10 miles from the Battery. By
O'Neill, proprietor. Principally used as a restaurant.

Point Comfort House. — By John McPherson. Near
the above, and used for same purposes.

TivoLi House. — Situated about 2 miles from the steam-
boat lauding, and at the terminus of the dummy rail-
way. Used principally as a restauiant, on the European
plan. Benjamin William Hook, proprietor. Open from
May 25tli until September 10th.

Sea- View House, — By John [McPherson. Same pur-
poses as " Tivoli House."

Wyckofp House. — By George E. Green, ('ontains 40

.li'

SEASIDE RESORTS.

1!)^

rooms, and is .at the terminus of the Coney Island Street
Railway. Used for boarders, and open the year round.
Green's Hotel. — Adjoining Wyckoff House. By

George E. Green.

Restaurant, etc.

CONEY ISLAND FLANK-KOAD.

Windsor Terrace is on the Coney Island Plank-Road,
3^ miles from Fulton Ferry, and 6 from Coney Island. It
is opposite the New Prospect Park, in Brooklyn, and is in
a beautiful situation, commanding an extensive view of
the park, skating-pond, and the Kings county parade-
ground. There is a look-out in front, on Prospect Hill,
250 feet high, from which a good view of New- York,
Brooklyn, New- York Harbor, and the Atlantic Ocean, etc.,
can be had. The house contains 18 rooms, is entirely
new, and it is intended to make it a first-class place. Wil-
liam Ward Hopkins, proprietor.

Tunison's Hotel.— Coney Island Plank-Road, 5 miles
from Fulton Ferry and 4 from Coney Island. By M.
C. Tunison. Family house,, for the pleasure and conve-
nience of riding parties.

Post's Hotel. — Coney Island Plank-Road, 7^ miles
from Fulton Ferry, and 2| from Coney Island. Hicks
Post, proprietor. Same purpose as above.

Conroy's Hotel. — Coney Island Plank-Road, 8J miles
from Fulton Ferry, and 1^ from Coney Island. By J. W.
Conroy. Same as above.

CAPE MAY.

Few among the standard and recognized places of sum-
mer resort enjoy a wider celebrity than Cape May, and
of late years, since railway communication has made it
more accessible, its list of visitors has lar^oely increasad.

lam

SEASIDE RESORTS.

It is the favorite resort of Philadelpliians, and even the
growing popularity of its new rival, Atlantic City, has af-
fected it but slightly. The easiest way to reach it from
New York is by railway to Camden, opposite Philadelphia,
and thence by a four hours' railway ride, passing through
Vineland, and a number of other towns, to Cape May.
The route is not particularly interesting, the southern
part of New-Jersey being flat and tame, as regards scenery ;
but the attractions awaiting the visitor at the end of his
journey are quite enough to compensate for the tedium of
the route.

Cape May is at the extreme southern point of New-
Jersey, where the Delaware Bay enters into the sea. The
little insulated bit of land on which all the hotels stand,
is known as Cape Island, and occupies an area of about 250
acres. The village has a permanent population of about
1200 souls ; but in the summer season, the numerous visi-
tors to the place swell the number of Cape May denizens to
thousands. It is then a gay and brilliant place. Over a
dozen hotels are crowded with health-seeking myriads from
New- York and Philadelphia, and especially from Baltimore
and Washington. In the more prosperous days of the
South, before the war. Cape May was the favorite resort of
Southerners, many coming from as far as New-Orleans, Cape
May being the nearest place of sea-side resort for them. At
present, they do not come in such large numbers ; but as
times improve, it is expected that they will return to their
old haunts. In the West, Cape May is w^ell known. Saint
Louis, Cincinnati, and Pittsburg being all represented in
her huge hotels.

The season at this admired place of resort usually be-
gins about the first of June — that is, the hotels open then ;
but the season is not at its height till the first of July, or

n m

' '' -, . ■

iZi-'

-: h

\^\'\

a r

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« i

SEASIDE RESORTS.

tliereaboiits. The usual recreations of a sea-side resort can
1)0 found liere to perfection. The beach, over 5 miles
long, is very hard and compact, and ofiers an unsurpassed
course for driving. Bathing is, of course, the feature of
the day, and is attended with all its usual health-giving
and mirth-producing concomitants. In the evening, t-trolls
along the beach or on the hotel piazzas, offer attractions
to those who do not care to join the groups of gay* dancers
in the parlors. Occasionally concerts of more than ave-
rage merit are given by vocalists from the metropolis.

On leaving the cars, at the station, the traveler can
either walk to the hotels or enter the omnibuses, which
convey passengers to them without charge. The distance
from the railway depot is but trifling.

There are some fifteen or sixteen hotels at Cape May,
though two of them of wide celebrity in their day — the
Mount Vernon and the Mansion — have been destroyed by
fire. The leading hotel at Cape May is undoubtedly
" Congress Hall," kept by Mr. Cake, of the Wadsworth
House in New- York. It is an immense structure, capable
of accommodating 1000 guests, and noted for tlie excel-
lence of its management and the variety of its table.
The i^rice of board at this establishment is $4 a day, or
$25 a week.

Another first-class house is the Columbia, which has ac-
commodations for 700 guests. Of a similar grade is the
United States Hotel, v/here 450 tourists can find all they
need in the way of food and lodging. Other hotels are :

Delaware House, accommodating
Atlantic Hotel, "

Centre House,
Washington Hotel,
Tremont

300 persons.

400 "

400

200 "

150 "

■^1— -^ -

SEASIDE RESORTS.

esort can
5 miles
iurpassed
at lire of
li-giving
^•, strolls
tractions
dancers
lan ave-
olis.

jler can
}, which
distance

)e May,
ly— the
)yed by
ibtedly
sworth
aj^ablo

excel-

table.
lay, or

las ac-
is the
they
ire:

National Hotel, accommodating
City " "

Sherman House, "

American Hotel,
Merchants' Hotel,

250 persona.
200 "
250 "
150
150 "

Still another hotel will be opened this summer, (1868.)
It has a veranda 20 feet wide, and will probably be called
the West-Jersey Hotel.

The Cape May hotels are built almost on the beach it-
self, and, of course, in full view of the ocean. The present
prospects of the place are most flattering, and this favorite
old watering-place seems determined that none of its
younger rivals shall surpass it.

EOCKAWAY BEACH, LONG ISLAND.

We remember when Rockaway Beach, a dozen years
ago, at the old Pavilion, about 6 miles east of the present
Sea View, was the most fashionable resort in the immedi-
ate vicinity of New- York. That location is now an Irish
settlement, and the beach has been spoiled, they say, by a
sand-bar.

The Beach has lost much of its distinction now, but still
affords a pleasant sea-side resort for city-tied and tired
people. The Bay View House is in a very fine position,
facing Jamaica Bay. It is built upon made land entirely.
Less than a year ago the high tide covered the present
site of the hotel with a depth of about five feet. The
terms at the Bay View were, last season, $4 per day, and
$17.50 by the week. The terms across the bay at the Sea
View, where is the surf, are $3 per day, and $15 to $18
by the week. The house is lighted by gas manufactured
on the premises. Lessee and landlord, Mr. A. D. Failing.
Further information can be had from the Secretary and
Treasurer of the company owning the dummy railway

hi.

II '■

!i <

¥'

SEASIDE EESORTS

and the hotel,. Mr. Henry Johnson, of 36 Pine street.
There are several other hotels here, also several private-
boarding-houses. The best route to Rockaway, if one be
burdened with baggage, is by the Long Island Railway
to Jamaica, 12 miles, thence by stage 8 miles over an ex-
cellent road to the beach. During the summer season a
steamboat plies between New- York and Rockaway. There
is also a railway between Jamaica and Rockaway. An-
other route, pleasanter to the baggageless, is by city cars,
8 or 9 miles, from the Brooklyn ferries, 3^ of ^vilich is
through a pleasant country by steam, occupying some-
thing less than 15 minutes. The time is about 50 minutes
on the street-cars to East New- York. The fare on the
dummy is 15 cents, and on the boat crossing to the Sea-
View House, 30 cents. The ride across Jamaica Bay in
the boat is about 6 miles in high tide and about 8 in low,
as the route must be changed when the w^ater is low.

There is not much to see at Rockaway ; but " not much"
is more than " two trees and a brook," of which many of
the Long Island toicns are said to be composed. Rock Hall,
built by Dr. Martin, is a fine old mansion, and contains
some valuable i^ictures. In the burial-ground of the
Methodist church, built 1790, is the grave and monument
of the victims of the wrecks of the Bristol and Mexico,
which were lost November 21st, 1826, and January 2d,
1837.

FIRE ISLAND, LONG ISLAND.

Fire Island is a long, narrow strip of beach, jutting out
into the ocean from the Long Island shore. It is about
25 miles from New- York, and is reached by the Long
Island Railway, which takes passengers, by stage, within
3 miles of the bay, and by the Southside Railway, from

• I

SEASIDE RESOETS.

ine street,
•al private-
, if one be
i Railway
ver an ex-
r season a
ly. There
vay. An-
city cars,
^viiich is
ng some-
) minutes
e on the
the Sea-
fi Bay in
8 in low,
ow.

•t much"
many of
ck Hall,
contains
of the
nument
Mexico,
ary 2d,

Hunter's Point. On leaving the railway, passengers take
the steamboat and cross the bay" over a beautiful sheet of
water about 8 miles wide. There are only 3 hotels on the
island. One is kept by D. S. S. Sammis, and will accom-
modate about 200 boarders. The rooms are small, but
made pleasant by a constant breeze from the sea. The
price is about $20 per week.

The other hotel is a small house called Dominie's Hotel,
and will accommodate but a small number. The beach is
perfectly arid and desolate. It is about f of a mile wide.
From Sammis's Hotel a plank walk extends to the >vater,
where there is to be found surf-bathing as fine as any in
the country. There is good blue-fishing in the bay, Avhich
is called the Great South Bay. Persons frequently go out
12 or 15 miles and catch the largest species of fish. Within
a few rods of Sammis's Hotel is a light-house, which is
one of the finest structures of the kind on the coast. Op-
posite Fire Island, on the Long Island shore, there are
boarding-houses where the advantage of drives is obtained.

• 6 •

THE MASSACHUSETTS COAST.

mg out
I about
! Long
within
^ from

FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND

SwAMPSCOTT has, within the last eight years, become
the most popular watering-place on the New-England
coast for Bostonians. It is to Boston wdiat Long Branch is
to New- York, and Cape May or Atlantic City to Philadel-
phia. Fashionafjle Boston moves to Swampscott in July.
Whole families are transported thither in their carriages

SEASIDE RESOETS.

or by rail, and a grand establishment of dogs, horses, do-
mestics, and children is moved in a few hours from Beacon
street to their " cottage by the sea."

Hero the same faces are met which have been seen daily
for nine months on 'Change, and the young ladies who
have been, perchance, your partners in the winter's Ger-
mans, flash by you on the road, the dashing charioteers of
pony-chaises.

When the traveler examines this place, he will see little
which can account for its extraordinary popularity. There
are few beaches along the coast which are not larger and
more attractive than those of Swampscott. The walks
and drives are not of remarkable beauty, nor are the
streets sufficiently broad to make rapid riding safe or com-
fortable. Nevertheless, these narrow streets are crowded
with carriages and equestrians, and the beaches continu-
ally ornamented by groups of ladies intent on exercise or
bathing. The scene is one of most lively animation, and
all visitors are impressed with the fact tiii t Swampscott is
beloved by the Bostonian.

The secret of this so evident popularity is the nearness
of the village to Boston and its accessibility at almost any
hour of the twenty-four. A ride of forty minutes brings
the traveler to the neat depot, where omnibuses are in
waiting to take him to cottage or hotel. Private carriages
cover the roads and surround the station on the arrival of
the afternoon trains. A drive of a mile and a half through
Fisherman's Village and by Philip's Beach gives an op-
portunity of obtaining an idea of the natural advantages
of the place. And when the stranger is lodged at the
Great or the Little Ana warn, or at the Lincoln House, the
ocean is spread before him, the heights of Cape Ann stand
forth, and the white houses along the beach of Lynn,

SEASIDE RESORTS.

4*^

while in front is Egg Rock, near to the land, but exposed:
to many a buffet from the in-rolling Atlantic.

The coast of Swampscott and vicinity is exceedingly
dangerous to the seaman. The beaches are short,, the
rocky bluffs high and long. A more unpleasant spot the
Oceanidae could never find whereon to drive a ship which
they had determined to destroy. The surf, pushed onward ,
by a " north-easter," rushes with tremendous force against
the jagged cliffs, and would sweep to destruction the
strongest vessel.

The large hotels are three in number — the Anawams,
Great and Little, and the Lincoln House. There are also in-
numerable boarding-houses and several hotels of a smaller
size. The village extends from the depot to the sea. It
is a thriving settlement, adorned here and there with a
church or a private residence erected by Bostonians. As
the road winds downward to the ocean, it passes through
Fisherman's Village, where numerous boat-houses stand,
with their names brightly painted upon them in a style
which suggests Yarmouth in Old England. Farther on
are the beaches and boarding-houses. The road follows
the shore with many a curve, now approaching the beach
and now directed toward the woods, which here, as on all
the coast of New-England, fringe the seaside.

From the hills, covered with these green woods, a lovely
scene is presented. The fleet of fishing-vessels at anchor
in the harbor or marked against the eastern horizon, the
distant steamers on their way, and passing yachts are al-
ways visible in the daytime, and at night the surf and the
moonlight make a most effective combination.

The bathing is excellent, the water deepening not too
rapidly, and being warmer than at Nahant or Rye. There
is no undertow whatever. The fishing is proverbially

It i"i

:!■'

;);;

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SEASIDE RESORTS.

fine, and the many yachts which grace tlie harbor show
that the facilities for sailing are appreciated by the gen-
tlemen who, for the summer months, make this their
home. The town is fast increasing in valuation under the
impetus of so many city guests. Real estate has rapidly
risen. Many a fair cottage is built, and each year the
number grows, though he who builds a summer residence
finds the luxury sufficiently exj^ensive to do credit to the
claims of Swampscott as a watering-place of the highest
fashion.

Close to this village is Salem, the homo of witchcraft
and the East-India trade. A good road leads to the centre
of the city from the Ocean House at Swampscott. By day
it is almost depopulated, many of its most worthy citizens
going to Boston for business purposes, and returning to
dinner and domestic joys. It is an old city, but without
that indescribable air of aristocratic ago which surrounds
Portsmouth. Its wealth has been chiefly accumulated in
the East-India commerce direct from its own port. But
now the business is wholly conducted in Boston, and Sa-
lem's wharves are desolate. The modern Athens has at-
tracted to herself capital and talent, and the towns of
lesser growth aromid her can nevermore be centres of
thriving trade. The Common is a source of pride. Hand-
some houses surround the open square, whicli in sum-
mer is deserving of much admiration. The nearness of
the little city to the ocean makes its suburbs a popular
resort for visitors. The drives in every direction are plea-
eant, leading toward Lynn, Swampscott, and Nahant,
crossing the river to Beverly, or penetrating into the inte-
rior. In every direction the traveler can see something,
when the sun is shining, of interest, and a week of rainy
weather can be profitably devoted to the examination of

timmi

SEASIDE RESORTS.

the town records, the reading of the local literature, and
the study of the monstrous and ever-memorable history
of the Salem witches.

Naliant was for many years a favorite resort for the
elite of New-England. It has never recovered from the
loss by fire of its principal hotel several years ago. Al-
though the work of rebuilding was quick and en(;rgetic,
the tide of travel wa.s in the interval diverted, and has not
returned in full force to the former channel. The beach
ip delightful, and far superior to that of Lynn or Swaiiips-
cott. Nothing equaling it is found until we approach the
Hamptons. The surf is magnificently high, and the beach
long, broad, and hard.

There is but one largo hotel at Nahtiiit. It has become
a spot for cottages and a residence for families who desire
more beach and less society than they would find at
Swampscott. It is the abiding-place of Cambridge pro-
fessors, of prominent litterateurs, and the professional men
of Boston who, after the arduous labors of eight or nine
months, are refreshed by the sea-air, by the study of the
habits of the finny tribe, and by leading them captive with
line and hook.

A steamer runs regularly to Nahant through the sum-
mer. Three quarters of an hour are agreeably passed in
running down the bay and in observing the forts and
Hingham, where the boat touches. Much has been said
and sung of the beauties of Boston Bay. The unfortunate "
sailor, coming on the coast in a driving snow-storm in
January, may fail to perceive its attractions as he watches
through freezing eyelids for the lights which point out
home and safety ; but the traveler can not fail to appreci-
ate them when the summer sea is calm beneath and the
summer sky above him.

I''

1:1

SEASIDE RESORTS.

Chelsea lies near Boston, on its outskirts. Tlio advanc-
ing growth of tlie city, wliich lias absorbed Roxbury, may
soon include the Chelsea beach as part f nd parcel of itself.
But now it has a separate name and fame. Horse-cars run
hourly to it, and the Eastern Railway takes the traveler
thither by a ton minutes' ride.

The beach is well known as extensive and beautiful,
abounding in game ai.d furnished with sundry hotels
wherein the best of cheer awaiteth the guest. It is a popu-
lar place with Bostonians, who drive to the shore, bathe,
eat a game-supper, and return by moonlight. The marshes
are visited through September by many birds, which not
even the neighborhood of a large city can frighten
away.

For bathing in the fresh rollers of the Atlantic, Chelsea
is unsurpassable, and sailing-boats are always in readiness
for those who prefer to be rocked upon the waters to being
tossed about within them.

Hampton B< :7j,h is on the line of the Eastern Railway,
45 miles from Beston. It is next to Rye, and the stranger
can drive fruin the Atlantic or Ocean House at that water-
ing-place directly to the Boar's Head, in Hampton. The
beach was widely celebrated in earlier times, and the colo-
nists of New-Hampshire often rode down to this part of the
coast for a clam-bake, or the more solemn ceremonies of
prayer-meeting.

Hampton is not as crowded by the fashionable world as
its neighbor, Rye, but the visiter has no less facilities for
enjoyment. The hotels are excellent, the bathing and
fishing superlatively fine, and the Bcenery better than from
any other point of the New Hampshire coast. From the
Isle of Shoals alone is a bet! or view to be obtained.
Boar's Head juts out into the Boa for several miles, and is

SEASIDE RESORTS.

always deliciously breezy throughout the hottest August.
Lovely roads lead to Kye, to Portsmouth, Exeter, Gretui-
land, and Stratham Hill, all well worth the careful inspec-
tion of tho tourist.

Boarding-houses are numerous, and the accommodations
so good that it is said no one fails to revisit Hampton who
has ever remained there during a whole day. Hampton
Falls and North-Hampton are different villages behind the
same long beach. Between them and tho ocean lie wide
marshes, over which trains rush almost hourly. The tra-
veler is reminded of English scenery as he passes these
old settlements with the gray marshes and distant sea be-
yond the little white villages, which fill the route from
Newburyport to Portsmouth.

For one who has an inclination to see all that is most
beautiful in New-England, no better route from the White
Mountains could be suggested than that to Red Hill and
Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnipiseogee — down the lake
to Wolfboro and Alton Bay — by rail to Dover, and thence
to Portsmouth and the neighboring beach§s, thence across
the Piscataqua into Maine.

Three superb beaches lie upon the Maine coast — those
of York, of Wells, and of Saco ; this last is better known
as Old Orchard.

The traveler can reach Cape Neddick by a short ride
over the Portsmouth, Saco, and Portland Railway from
Portsmouth. Or, if he prefer the better views and greater
leisure of a slower passage, he can take the daily stage
which leaves Boston at eleven in the morning. At Cape
Neddick is York Beach and Bold Head Cliff, yearly visited
by crowds of curious strangers. Agamenticus is but a
mile distant, from whose imposing summit can be seen the
harbors of Boston, Portsmouth, and Portland, the coast of

• •

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SEASIDE RESORTS.

[i •

ill

Maine, New-Hampuliire, and Massacliusetts, and the peaks
of the White Mountains.

Continuing onward by stage or cars, the tourist is con-
veyed to Wells, a place unfrequented by the gay fashiona-
bles of New- York and Boston, but dear to the heart of
every sportsman.

This beach is 6 miles in length, and covered with crowds
of snipe and curlew. Partridges and woodcock abound in
the woods, and a large trout-stroam, filled with these deli-
cious fish, arising from the sea, crosses the beach. Follow-
ing this stream as it winds into the deepening shades of the
forest, many smaller brooklets are found, running back
into the country as far as North and South-Berwick.

These localities are thoroughly explored by the gunners
and fishermen who come each year from the large cities
as regularly as the game they seek.

Biddeford and Saco are the most flourishing of the
smaller cities of Maine. Their business is chiefly of a
manufacturing nature, and during the war large sums
were invested therein by sagacious capitalists. On one
side of the Saco River is Saco, on the other Biddeford, and
a few miles to the east is the beach.

This, like Wells, is a favorite resort of the sportsman.
The bathing and fishing are remarkably fine, and nume-
rous picnics, camp-meetings, and similar entertainments are
located each season upon the hard and gleaming sand
which extends for miles along the shore.

A wonderful curiosity of this neighborhood is Saco
Pool, which should be seen by every traveler. The sea,
by a small passage, runs up a quarter of a mile into the
land, and fills a large, circular basin, near which stands a
hotel. This deep basin is scooped from the solid rock, and
is emptied and refilled as the rushing tide rises and falls

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Pulpit FaUs, Ithaca, N. Y.

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SEASIDE RESOPTS.

again.

The singular pool excites much attention from the
geologist. The poetic fancy 'night people it with marine
deities or graceful sea-nymphs, who have made a quiet
court-chamber apart from the surging waters of the outer
ocean. Bat never by the noonday sun or the pale moon-
light have their forms been seen. Nevei-theless, this theo-
ry is assuredly as plausible as any of the many which have
been framed to account for this work of nature, so strange
and beautiful.

CUSHING'S ISLAND, FOBTLAND HABBOB.

In the harbor of Portland, Maine, about 3 miles from
the city, is situated a lovely little island of 250 acres,
known as Cushing's Island. It commands as fine a view
of Neptune's domains as any spot on this continent. Route
from New- York, most direct by Portland steamers Diri-
go and Chesapeake, from Pier 38, East River, Wednesdays
and Saturdays, at 4 P.M. On this island, standing high
above the level of the sea, is a first-class hotel called the
Ottawa House, under the management of George Allen,
Esq., formerly of the Marlboro Hotel, of Boston. Canadian
guefc usually have the majority at this resort. Here
fashion succumbs to comfort, and the guests, inspired by
the example and efforts of their worthy host, do their
utmost to make each other happy. About 200 yards from
the hotel, on one side of the island, is a beautiful beach
for bathing, with bathing-houses, dresses, etc., for the ac-
commodation of the guests, while on the ether side of the
island is equally as fine a beach, where the visitors bathe.
Old Izaak Walton, moreover, has his devotees, who gratify
their tastes by piscatorial raids, either in deep-sea fishing
some 10 miles out on the briny deep, or from the rocks in
the immediate neighbo'thood of the house, where fish, sut

'I'

SEASIDE EESOETS.

ficient in quantity and quality to feed 200 people, can be
caught in a few hours by two or three amateurs. Terp-
sichore also has her willing votaries, and nightly in the
parlors Young America trips the light fantastic toe with
Canada's fair daughters. Charades, dramatic performan-
ces, etc., each c^ ' i their share of the patronage, and thus
the time is pleasantly employed, while for those who turn
away from the enjoyments of the parlor there are fine
bowling-alleys and a billiard-room.

•♦♦

THE MAINE COAST.

CAFE ELIZABETH AND PORTLAND.

Cape Elizabeth is 2 miles distant from Portland, the
commercial capital of Maine, and shares with it the attrac-
tions located in or near the city, Portland harbor is one
of the best on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage being pro-
tected on every side by land, while the water is deep, and
communication with the ocean direct and convenient. It
is defended by Forts Preble, Scammell, and Gorges, and
dotted over with lovely islands. These islands afford most
delightful excursions, as is the case all along this charming
coast, and are among the greatest attractions of the vi-
cinity. On the highest point of the peninsula, upon which
the city stands, is an observatory, 70 feet high, command-
ing a fine view of the city, harbor, islands in the bay, and,
on a clear day, the misty summits of the White Moun-
tains. The great fire of July 4th, 1866, has left traces in
Portland which are not yet repaired.

At the Cape there is a large hotel called Cape Cottage,

SEASIDE BBSOBTS.

recently renovated. The place is a popular one, and tlio
visitor will hardly need fear the absence of good society.

One may go by the Outside Line of steamers, from Pier
88, East River, at 4 p.m., Wednesdays and Saturdays ; fare,

, state-room and meals extra.

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BELFAST AND CAMDEN.

Camden, on the west shore of Penobscot Bay, just a lit-
tle way in from the Fox Islands, is a much-frequented re-
sort. Hotel, the Atlantic; Mr. Johnson, proprietor.

Belfast and Castine are some 30 miles below Bangor,
where the Penobscot enters the bay which takes its name.
Belfast on the west, and Castine on the east shore, are 9
miles apart. Both are small ship-building and fishing
towns. The reader of Longfellow's Kavanagh will be in-
terested to see the localities of Castine involved in that in-
teresting poem. Baron Castine, an old Frenchman, lived
here, and gave name to the place, at some time during the
eighteenth century ; and his old house, with its quaint, worn
steps, is one of the curiosities of the neighborhood. The
fort in the noble harbor, built during the Revolution by
the English, is another place generally visited. During a
certain part of the summer season there are often Metho-
dist camp-meetings held hereabout.

The chief source of enjoyment, however, is in the de-
lightful sailing, fishing, and hunting. There are so many
islands in the bay, and the water is so delightfully smooth
and unruffled, that there are always multitudes of chow-
der parties, fishing parties, picnickers, etc., profiting by
their recreating powers. Inland, there is fine shooting
available ; and furthermore, at this point, we are on the
direct route for Moosehead Lake and the Maine Forest,
(see article so entitled,) by way of Bangor.

SEASIDE EESORTS.

The Penobscot, the largest and most beautiful of tlie
rivers of Maine, is formed by two branches, the east and
the west, which unite near the centre of the State, and
flow in a general south-west course to Bangor, 60 miles
from the sea, and at the head of navigation. Large ves-
sels can ascend to Bangor, and small steamboats navigate
the river yet above. At Bangor, the tide rises to the great
height of 17 feet, an elevation which is supposed to be
produced by the wedge-shaped form of the bay and by the
current from the Gulf-Stream. The length of the Penob-
scot, from the j unction of the east and the west branches,
is 135 miles ; or, measuring from the source of the west
branch, it is 300 miles; though, as far as the tourist is
concerned, it is only 60 miles — being that portion between
Bangor and the ocean. Tliis part, then, the Penobscot
proper, ranks, in its pictorial attractions, among the finest
river scenery of the United States. In all its course there
are continual points of great beauty, and very often the
shore rises in striking and even grand lines and propor-
tions.

MOUNT DESEET ISLAND.

Mount Desert Island is an out-of-the-way nook of beauty in
Frenchman's Bay, east of the mouth of the Penobscot River.
It is 40 miles from Bangor, and may be reached from Bos-
ton by steamer to Bucksport, on the Penobscot, fare, $4,
(from Portland, $2.50 or $3,) and thence by stage, ma Ells-
worth, 40 miles, or from Castine, on Penobscot Bay, hard
by. If the visitor here can not sketch the bold, rocky
cliffs, (for this is a choice resort of the landscape painters,)
he can beguile the fish to his heart's content. And, more-
over, there is hardly a limit to the places and wonders that
are to be seen. The island itself, 60,000 acres in extent,
boasts Green Peak, 1800 feet high, the loftiest land on the

SEASIDE RESORTS.

Atlantic coast within our borders. The view from its
summit, of course, can not fail to impress deeply every one
who visits the island. The vigorous anl varied rock-bound
coast of New-England can be nowhere seen to greater ad-
vantage. The mountain most nearly overhangs Bar Har-
bor, where also are the Spouting Horn, a place »/hero the
sea (as at Newport) casta up its foamy waves to a great
height ; and Schooner Head, such a phantom ship as may
be seen, or used to be, on the most northern portion of this
coast, at Gaspe. (See sketch of Ontakio and Saint Law-
rence, ad fi7iem.) At the other (south-west) harbor is the
Sea Wall, where old Neptune has heaped up the stones of
the shore until there is now a huge wall which, at the
proper tide, resounds with the breaking of the billows
against it. Pulpit Rock is far out on the crags, and not
approachable by the weak-nerved ; and when you reach it,
you let yourself down into a pulpit of stone, over the front
of which you look down a sheer precipice of 50 or 60 feet
into the angry billows, and feel the jar of their assaults
upon the base of the cliff, or think you do, which is just
as well, so far as the sensation is concerned. From the pul-
pit — indeed, from almost any point on the eastern side of
the island — we see the breakers dashing over Mingo Rock,
a mile or two out, and exposed on all sides to the long
wash of waves. The foam-crested billows climb its sides
like great white leviathans, and finding they can not quite
reach 'he summit, spout a cloud of si>ray over it, and slide
back tgain into the dark abyss. Ever returning to the
charge, baffled but not disheartened, tlicy appear in new
forms of beauty continually. Sitting on the highest point
of the island, one may see almost every rod of it, and the
7 smaller islands that encircle it. The near view is unique
and pleasant. Gray rocks constitute full half the surface,

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

and you can go all over the island, with a little care, and
not step on the soil. In the dells, where a rood or two of
soil is kept moist by the stone basin in which it rests, beds
of iris b^nd in violet waves before the gale, and seem as
if they would be blue or purple like the sea if they were
large enough. The moss and grass among the rocks is of
more lively hues than are common on the main land at
this season. Nor is other vegetation lacking. Here, for
example, is a bunch of yellow clover, very delicate and
beautiful, that continentals know nothing about, except
by the botany books ; and there are quantities of splendid
sea-mosses for whomsoever has the industry and patience
to prepare them for preservation. For animated nature,
there is a flock of sheep of spotless whiteness, such as are
never seen on the main land, except in pastures ; and half
a dozen cows, who have a habit of going to the eastern
cliffs, lying down together, and looking out earnestly over
the sea. Doubtless they are of foreign breed, and have
instinctive yearnings for fatherland. Also, let us not for-
get the one black horse, who can draw a cart, run the
treadmill, and in trotting is without a rival. If there are
hogs on the island, they avoid observation. Occasionally
one comes from the main land, aisguised in fashionable
toggery ; but the air does not agree with them, and they
eat one dinner and leave. As long ago as 1647, Richard
Cutts and John Cutting sent a sharp remonstrance to the
General Court against the practices of one John Reynolds,
who, " contrary to an order of court, which sayeth, ' No
woman shall live on the Isles of Shoals,' hath not only
brought his wife hither, with an intention to live here and
abide ; but also hath brought upon Hog Island a great
stock of goats and swine, which, by destroying much fish,
do great damage to your petitioners and others, and also

SEASIDE RESORTS.

lat

ISO

spoil the spring of water upon the island, rendering it un-
fit for any manner of use, which affords tlie only relief and
supply to all the rest of the islands ; your petitioners
therefore pray that the act of court may be put in execu-
tion for the removal of all women from inhabiting hero,
and that said Reynolds may be ordered to remove his
goats and swine from the island without delay." The
General Court ordered Reynolds to remove his goats and
8 wine within thirty days ; but "as to the removal of the
wife, it is thought fit by the court that, if no further com-
plaint come against her, she may enjoy the company of
her husband." Women have been tolerated here ever
since ; more than tolerated, to speak truly ; and when
the daily steamer approaches, the first effort is to
count through the telescope the number of women on
board.

These islands were once agitated by revolution. Possi-
bly, it was the first organized rebellion in North- America,
though it never got beyond organization. It originated
with the clergy. A quarrel between Rev. Mr. Gibson and
Rev. Mr. Larkham, in 1643, which was wholly personal at
first, led to a revolt of the islanders against the govern-
ment of Massachusetts, which then claimed and held the
islands. The Rev. Gibson, by whom the revolt was insti-
gated, before it came to open war, made his own submis-
sion, and persuaded the islanders to renew their allegiance,
and there was a general amnesty by tacit consent. Gib-
son and Larkham are not the only pastors of note and in-
fluence in the history of these islands. Twenty years
after them flourished the Rev. John Brock, who had such
power in prayer as to restore children apparently dead,
and to raise sunken boats from the ocean. The details of
his achievements are preserved in authentic records. It

It-

SEASIDE RESORTS.

does not appear, however, that ho exercised his faith upon
dead adults, or any craft larger than a fishing-smack.

Hotels. — At Bar Harbor, Koberts's Hotel ; at South-
west Harbor, ('lark's and Freeman's. Terms low. Season,
from June to November.

EASTPORT.

The uttermost point of the Atlantic coast under protec-
tion of the Stars and Stripes is Eastport, Maine — a i^lace
worthy of visit, if only for that reason. It is, however,
interesting for its own natural attractions ; for more charm-
ing scenes, on land and on sea, th:\n are here, can rarely
be found. The Passamaquoddy Bay extends inland pome
15 miles, and is, perhaps, 10 miles in breadth. Its shores
are worderiu Jy irregular and picturesque, and the many
islands which stud its deop waters help much in the com-
position of pictures to be enjoyed and remembered. Ca-
lais stands at the head of navigation, on the Saint Croix
River. Tho lumber trade is large, and ship-building is
extensively carried on. It is connected with Saint Ste-
phen's, in New-Brunswick, by four bridges. The Calais
and Baring Railwa} connects the town with Milltown and
Baring. From Baring the Lewey's Island Railway ex-
tends 17 miles to Princeton. Population, GOOO.

Eastport is 234 miles north-east of Portland, and is
reached thence and from Boston by regular steamboat
communication to and from Saint John's, N. B. Steam-
boats run also to Calais and places en route, 30 miles above
at the head of navigation, on the Saint Croix River. The
town is charmingly built on Moose Island, which embraces
2000 acres, and is connected to the mainland of Perry by
a bridge ; and by ferries with Pembroke, Lul >ec, and the
adjoining British islands. Fort Sullivan is its shield and
buckler against any possible foes from without.

SEASIDE RESORTS.

THE NEff-IIAMPSniRE COAST.

■♦-♦♦-

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I the
land

PORTSMOUTH-ISLE OF SHOALS-RYE.

PoRTS^rouTTT, N. II., is one of the most beautiful of
Nuw-En^hmd cities. It is easily accessible to the tourist,
lying iu the direct lino of the travel to the Wliite Moun-
tains, to Portland, Montreal, or the Isle of Shoals. It is
on the Eastern Railway, and can be reached by a ride of
two hours and a half from either Portland or Bostcm.
Travelers from Winnipisiogee, the faTuous lake of New-
Hampshire, can, by taking ears at Concord or at Dover, be
carried by a short journey to this city. Like Newbury-
port and Salem, it has seen its most lively days. Unless
some unexpected change in the course of trade should
occur, it will never again be the bustling town of 1812.
But, unlike these sister cities of the New-England Coast,
it does not lament the loss of commerce and bewail the
past opportunities which once made it a rival of Boston. A
refreshing calm has settled upon the inhabitants, who
lead a life of unaspiring tranriuillity, which would have
charmed the soul of Irving liatL he seen it, as it did that
of Hawthorne, who came, and saw, and was enraptured.
The absence of the rush and c^'ntention which character-
ize towns of a smaller size but ol a different history, is a
great attraction to the traveler. The evidences of unosten-
tatious Avealth, the ancient buildings, the high houses,
large gardens, and shaded stre> ts, give constant gratifica-
tion to the visitor who is transported from the clatter and
dust of travel into an atmosphere of repose. In the sub-
urbs he can not fail to find many a spot by nature fitted

((

For poet's dream or summer idyll;"

SEASIDE BESOBTS.

and never yet camo liitlier a traveler who did not confess
that, however far he may have wandered on this conthient
or beyond the seas, he has found no lovelier pceiies.

The Navy- Yard presents an attractiv^o feature to the
stranger. It is upon the Maine side of the Piscataqua,
whose broad stream rolls downward to the Atlantic be-
tween fair country-seats and rich meadows, till it sweeps
against the venerable wharves of the city. The number
of the workmen has been reduced to a *' peace basis," and
the scene is by no means as animated as during the four
years of the late war. Tlio i^urchase by the Government
of Seavey's Island adds considerably to the area of the
yard. Here new houses for the officers will soon be erect-
ed, and cool and pheasant summer quarters established.

A steamer runs every hour to and from the yard, land-
ing her passengers at the foot of Daniel Street in Ports-
mouth. It is a capacious vessel, and there is always room
for a party of sight-seers.

In Portsmouth are various objects of peculiar interest.
Among them are the antique church of St. Jolm^ the
Athenaeum, the Custom-House, and the residence of Gov-
ernor Langdon, described in a recent Atlantic by Haw-
thorne. Near the Navy- Yard is the tomb of Sir William
Pepperell, well known in the history of the State as a suc-
cessful merchant and popular ruler of the province. Sev-
eral elegant country-seats are around the mansion which
once was his, and which now is tenanted by the sole relic
of the Sparhawk family. On this side of the river is Fort
Macleary, a century old, now remodeled and strengthened.
A short ride takes the traveler from Portsmouth to
Newcastle, crossing, by several bridges, branches of the
Piscataqua, and furnishing beautiful views of the city and
of Little Harbor. Fort Constitution stands at the en-

SEASIDE RESORTS.

i 'L

trance of the lower harbor, and tenninatcs, witli its h'lffh
walls, this road. These walls are of granite, and upon
them work is still progressing.

There are various hotels in Portsmouth, of which the
oldest and perhaps the beat known is the Rockingham
House. This was once the private home of one of New-
Hampshire's early governors. It is noticed by Holmes,
in his £JLnG Venner, as a famous hostelry of olden time.
The Philbrick House, conducted by the veteran of Rye
Bench, the City Hotel, and the Franklin, are establish-
ments where the stranger can find comfort at a reasonable
price.

The Isle of Shoals is 11 miles from the city. A steam-
er runs daily from Railway Wharf, connecting with the
morning trains from Boston, Portland, Concord, Dover,
and Great Falls. The voyage is but an hour in length,
and the scenery, as the boat passes down the river through
the Narrows, stemming bravely the rushing tide, or borne
6 ^rfing upon it, is most delightful. Sliding by Fort Con-
st^tutV :i and the Whale's Back Light-House, the steamer
16 Boon ipon the wide Atlantic. Directly in front is the
d'Tii u.!'line of the islands, while behind stretches the
white iiue of the coast. In the distance rise the hills of
Nevr Hampshire and the blue sides of Agamenticus, the
high mountain of York. As the boat approaches the Ap-
pledore Island, the hotel unfolds its size and proportions.
Landing by row-boats, the traveler ascends, by an easy
path, to the portico, where an expectant crowd is assem-
bled.

The "Appledore" is conducted by Oscar and Cedric
Laighton, whose father is well remembered as the former
proprietor. Hi8 grave is now one of the interesting and
noteworthy spots upon the rocky surface of the island.

t f

SEASIDE RESORTS.

Hero also are uuried tlie unfortunate crew of a Spanish
vessel driven upon the cliffs on a winter's night. This
incident has been made the subject of an effective poem
by Longfellow.

The steamboat reaches the Appledore at 1 o'clock each
day, and starts upon its homeward trip at 3 p.m. Visitors
to the other islands of the group are carried across in
small boats. The distance is short to Gosport, where is a
small village of some 30 houses, a church, and a school-
house. The population are hardy fishermen, among
whom can still be traced the Portuguese features of the
original colonizers from the fleet of John Smith, by whom
these islands were discovered. A disaster fell upon them
a year ago, in the shape of fire. Half their little settle-
ment was consumed in a single night ; and this calamity,
to so hard-working a people, excited much sympathy
throughout New-England. Assistance was given them,
and they are now recoveri i^ from their losses.

Near by is White Island, where a revolving light casts
a crimson glow over a sea which sleeps through the sum-
mer months, but which rises in the winter storms with
mighty strength. The other islands are known by the
euphonious names of Smutty-Nose and Hog. They are
visited only by sportsmen, and are a refuge for innume-
rable sea-fowl.

Amid this group, the summer weeks go by with many
delights. Fishing, shooting, sailing, and bathing are
daily to be obtained ; and not the least attraction is the
constant charm of the sea, the breezes, and the fair per-
spective.

The beaches of Rye are becoming each year more popu-
lar. They are reached by the Eastern Railway at the
stations of Hampton, Greenland, or Portsmouth. From

SEASIDE RESORTS.

the

Greenland and Hampton a stage runs regularly on the
arrival of the trains from Boston or Portland. From
Portsmouth, the distance is 7 miles over most excellent
roads.

The largest hotel is the Ocean House, of which Job
Jenncss & Son are proprietors. Near this are the Wash-
ington and Surf Houses, and numerous cottages for board-
ers. At the other end of the beach is the Atlantic House,
formerly known as Philbrick's, and +he new and capa-
cious Farragut House, which 1 as experienced two most
successful seasons. Scattered along the roadside are plea-
sant boarding-houses, crowded during the heat of July
and August.

All these hotels are of excellent character and well pat-
ronized. The fields and lawns are filled with croquet-
players, and the long, wide beach with bathers, sports-
men, and carriages. The scene is always lively by day^
and at night, hops, germans, and private theatricals give
to the guest unfailing excitement and variety.

The drives through the surrounding country are invit-
ing, and the neighboring villages of Hampton, Greenland,
and Exeter are thoroughly explored each season by gay
parties from the hotels of Rye.

l< Hi

my
are
the
)er-

)pu-

the

From

NEW-BEDFOKD AND MARTHA'S VINEYARD.

Although in the city of New-Bedford there are no
hotels devoted exclusively to the entertahiment of
summer tourists, and no places of great historical
interest or natural curiosity, yet perhaps there is no
place along the whole coast of New-England better
fitted by nature for the quiet enjoyment of the warm
geason. This city is situated on the side of a long
hill, sloping gradually to the Acushnet River, and is

SEASIDE RESORTS.

tliusby position one of the cleanliest, and consequently
Ileal tliiest, localities in New-England. It is in a direct line
south of Boston, about 50 miles distant, and may be
readied from New- York by the way of Boston, or more
easily by taking the shore line through Connecticut and
changing cars at Mansfield, Mass. The most frequented
route, however, is by the New- York and Bristol line of
steamboats through the Long Island Sound, which in
l^leasant weather is delightful. The boat leaves New-
York about 5 o'clock in the afternoon and reaches
Bristol early in the morning, where passengers take the
cars tor New-Bedford. There is also a propeller running
once or twice a week from New- York to New-Bedford,
chiefly devoted to the transportation of freight.

The Acushnet River is nearly a mile wide and flows
through Buzzard's Bay out into the ocean. The water is
very clear and the shores sandy and well suited for bath-
ing purposes.

During the summer, this place is resorted to mainly by
travelers who prefer the quiet pleasures of a home near
ilie sea to the attractions of the more popular resorts of
wealth and fashion. Perhaps there is no city in America
of its size and wealth where so few are tempted to go
elsewhere for summer recreation ; an(. he few who leave
go rather for health than pleasure, desirous of taking the
milder air of the inland towns.

There are many fine drives in and about New-Bedford,
one extending several miles out into Buzzard's Bay on a
narrow tongue of land laid out and graded at great ex
pense by the city exclusively for purposes of pleasure.
During the sultry summer weatiier the cool breezes from
the sea render this drive a most i«-ttractive resort, and by
some it has been regarded the finest drive in America.

SEASIDE RESORTS.

a
ire.

ica.

The extreme point of this road commands a fine view of
New-Bedford, the broad river which sexmrates it from the
town of Fairliaven, the Elizabeth Islands, and, afar off but
plainly discernible, the famous cliff of Guy Head in Mar
tha's Vineyard. But aside from healthy climate, the main
attractions of New-Bedford and vicinity are the rare facili-
ties here afforded for bathing, boating, sailing, and fishing,
and the various pleasant resorts for pleasure, to which ex
cursions are continually being made from the city during
the summer, both by land and by water.

As most of the citizens are at home during the summer,
ontertaining their friends from abroad, there is a full
supply of all the various methods of sea-side recreation.
No place along the coast has done ijiore to popularize in
modern times the felicities of the old-fashioned New-Eng-
land clam-bake.

The whaling enterprise in which the people of this vi-
cinity are engaged, being carried on across the sea far
away from home and mainly by the labors of strangers
coming among them, gives to all classes an unusual
amount of leisure, which their peculiar situation affords
them ample opportunities to enjoy.

The hotels of New-Bedford are : the Parker House, cen-
tral, commodious, and well kept ; the Mansion House, and
various smaller public houses. There are also a large
number of private families with whom, at less expense, a
greater enjoyment of the season may be derived. There
are by the sea-side, in the neighboring towns, numerous
places also, where during the summer the houses are
opened to strangers. In the town of Marion, about 10
miles from New-Bedford, there is on Great Hill, near the
shore of Buzzard's Bay, in one of the most delightful ''^ots
of New-England, an excellently kept hotel, which u. o lor

I \

> 1 1

■i !«- wi'"«:fl"",i" uj ,iii"i»JnmBf»-»<»«w«n ill inmiir^wimii;!^

SEASIDE RESORTS.

■■:!

M' t'-

several years furnislied a home for hosts of summer tou-
rists.

Travelers wishing to pass a few weeks in the vicinity
of New-Bedford should by all means so arrange as to
select that part of the month of August during which If
held the great Wesleyan Camp-Meeting on Martha's Vine
yard. Steamboats leave New-Bedford twice a day, carry
ing people to the island from all parts of the State.
Every one living in the vicinity of New-Bedford expects
to pass at least one day in the year at the camp-meeting.
The island of Martha's Vineyard is about 30 mileg
from New-Bedford. In reaching it, the boats pass through
Buzzard's Bay by the islands of Pasque, Nashewena, and
Nanshou, (the first now under the control of the New-
York Club, and used by them as a fishing and yachting
headquarters, and the last, the summer residence of Hon.
John M. Forbes, of Boston, by whom it is owned,) then
through Quick's Hole and across the Vineyard Sound to
the " Camp-Meeting Landing," on the east side of the
island. The meetings are held in a magnificent grove
owned by the trustees of the association, which, though con
secrated especially to religious worship, has in latter years
become a general resort for healthful and honorable recre-
ation. Small cottages and tents have been erected in
great numbers, some of them with great elegance. The
grove is laid out in avenues radiating from the central
place of x^ublic worship, and others running «omewhat in
the manner of concentric circles, the inner circle being
lined with larger tents, which are used by tlie members
of the various parishes for domestic and religious pur-
poses. Oftentimes tliero t.ro an Jiiaay as fifteen or twen'^'"
thousand persons present at one tir.ie; but the arrange-
ments made by the trusteeb 1 •■' t.o comfort, convenience.

Ill

lie

ral

SEASIDE RESORTS.

and happiness of all in attendance have become so per-
fect that, notwiti'Standing by far the largest part are pre-
sent for recreation, any disturbance or indecorum seldom
if ever occurs. Ample provision is also made for board-
ing and lodging visitors at the Grove, though the more
common custom is to go and return the same day. Tlie
fare on the boats is very small, and the trip across the Bay
and Sound is charming.

But let not the traveler fail to go to Nantucket and see
the islanders. This island is nominally under the govern-
ment of the United States. They have a first-rate hotel,
the Ocean House, well ordered and kept ; the Adams
House, less expensive but of excellent character, its host
and hostess attentive, its tables lil)erally spread with well-
cooked food, and its lodging-rooms clean and spacious.
There are also numerous boarding-houses. Visitors fond
of fishing will not go awpy disappointed. First, there is
the shark-fishing, which is a sport almost equal in excite-
ment uo the hunting of the buffalo with the lasso. The
shark is the Ishmael of fishers, he has no friends. The
timid dtisire to keep out of his company. They are willing
to let him alone, contented if he will let them alone ;
but bolder spirits, when they go to Nantucket, at once
plan to go sharking. The first thing is to engage the
servlccB of an experienced skipper provided with a stout
boat, for sixarks are not fond of being hooked. But boat
p.nd skipper being provided, you start in the morning, first
for the blue-fish ground ; fV)r fish eat fish, and the blue-fish
is bait for the shark. Talcing the bait is a good introduc-
tion to tLdving the shark ; for there is no fishing, unless it
be spearing of salmon, quite equal in excitement to blue-
fishing. The blue-fish is deceived b^' appearances ; he is
caught \N'ith a hook inserted in a bit of pewter shaped

•ill

SEASIDE RESORTS.

'■\i

■

III

somewhat like a smelt, and about as large. The line is
trailed by the boat, and as the bait is simply drawn fiash-
incr throufifh the water, tlio blue-fish darts at it, and, seiz-
ing it, is drawn to the boat, not without a vigorous
struggle for liberty, and sometimes, when not firmly hook-
ed, he throws out the hook and is off. When this minor
sport has been sufficiently enjoyed and bait enough ob-
tained, the party stpr'uS for the haunts of the shark. Ar-
rived at th« fishing-ground, a big piece of blue-fish is put
on to a big hook, and the baited hook is dropped. Next
the hook is a fathom or two of iron chain, for the hooked
shark would make short work of hempen line. Presently
a dull tug is fait, and the line begins to run out ; when a
few fathoms have been taken out, the lasso is held fast
and the shark is firmly hooked and drawn toward the
boat. This unexpected operation is not received very
pleasantly ; and the guerrilla of the sea looks any thing but
amiable as, snapping and struggling, he is drawn to the
side of the boat, where a few vigorous blows with a club
upon his nose reduce him to submission.

Besides this gigantic sport, Nantucket can offer the
tourist tamer fishing of porgies and perch. In the height
of the season they have " squankams," or clam-bakes, as
the " ofi-island folks" call them. A large party — the larger
the better, but well assorted — assembles at Quidnit or at
Quaise, Abram's or at Mattaket, and spends tlie day in in-
nocent mirth, stimulated by song and dance and ramble,
and regalement of roasted clams, and other dainties, to
which the free air of the plains fresh from the ocean gives
relish. The evenings at Nantucket in summer are en-
livened by pleasant dancing-parties among the hospitable
people of the place, for Nantucket still merits its old repu-
tation of being hospitable to strangers. The little village

ing-
deli^
and
had.

I' ill

SEASIDE KESORTS.

of Siasconset lies on tlio soutli-eastcrn bank of tlio island
on its very verge ; and north of this percli is Saacoty Head,
about a mile distant and risinfj about 90 feet above
the sea, which lies below with only a narrow bench. Who-
ever has read Irving's story of his musings at the main-
top of the ship which carried him to Europe, and sympa-
thizes with his feelings, would enjoy a stroll from Siascon-
set to Sancoty, especially if he were to climb to the gal-
lery of the lofty light-house, where he can look out on an
expanse of ocean limited only by the shores of the eastern
continent. Here lies what to very many is the peculiar
charm of Nantucket. Extensive unfenced plains and
gentle undulations, rising here and there into very con-
siderable elevations, from which an extensive view of the
ocean is enjoyed, air sweetened by the fragrance of wild
herbage, perfect seclusion if desired, and yet nearness of
human life and just as much of social intercourse as one
desires. Few visitors go away from Nantucket disappoint-
ed in their expectation of enjoyment. To those who are
not in search of fashionable amusements, but real rest and
recreation, a sojourn at Siasconset, or any other dwelling-
place at the east end of the island, will be found full of
comfort and delight, and can be found at few other water-
ing-places or summer resorts. Newport and Naliant are
delightful, especially Newport ; but the same seclusion
and naturalness of locality and surroundings can not be
had, even there.

STAMFORD, CT.

Stamford is located on Long Island Sound, 34 miles
from New- York, to which head centre it is linked by
the New-Haven Railway, 13 trains running each way
per day, and by a steamboat making regular trips.

■'i '

SEASIDE RESORTS.

It lias well-kept roads, schools of a high order, (of which
that of Mr. James Betts is worthy of especial mention,) sea
breezes, commanding sites for houses, a population orderly,
moral, and refined, prospects unsurpassed for quiet loveli-
ness, and the church of your choice. It is no wonder that
such a combination of attractions has arrested the search
of so many of those who leave the lower end of the busy
city with plethoric pockets and satisfactory bank accounts.
Stamford, as a suburb of New- York, is scarcely a score
of years old ; but Stamford, as a quiet, well-to-do New-Eng-
land village, reaches back to the days of the Pequods and
Miles Standish. For several generations it lay dreaming
on the margin of the Sound, the gently swelling hills
running down in long emerald slopes to the well-washed
shore ; and these were cultivated by the descendants of
those early Connecticut farmers, who settled Windsor and
Hartford — men who feared God, reverenced the Sabbath,
and were at pea ;;e with their fellows ; people who, like
Mrs. Stowe's Uncle Edward, were as upright downright
good men as ever labored six days and rested on the sev-
enth. Prominent among them was Abraham Davenport,
the Connecticut worthy, who has of late been made im-
mortal by the muse of Whittier, and still, near the spot

•' Where the Sound
Drinks the small tribute of the Mianus,"

a descendant of that early hero, in his beautiful sea-side
villa, leads a pure life, and awaits a " tranquil death." On
one of the growing streets of the village the inhabitants still
point to a structure which nothing but rich associations
has saved from the march of improvement. Here, for a
short time, Washington had his head-quarters during the
Revolutionary war. As soon as one learns this fact, how

"VSKJ

SEASIDE RESOETS.

-side
On
still
tions
for a
the
how

the narrow windows, the low coiling, tlie bullring walls,
and the rickety roof take on a character of dignity, almost
of sanctity ! We look with a feeling little less than vene-
ration upon the worm-eaten threshold, when we remember
the august form that almost a hundred years ago passed
over it.

From the era of the Revolution to the era of the rail-
ways, the place had a slow, natural growth, the streets
gradually extending, and a somewhat larger fleet of coast-
ing schooners rocking g* utly on the shoal and narrow har-
bor. But since the scream of the iron horse l^roke the
rural charm, New- York has laid a finger on the soil, villas,
palaces, mansions have sprung up, thousand-dollar teams
prance the streets, their owners wrapped in gorgeous af-
ghans, their drivers stifle with buckram and spangled with
gold lace. Scholars, as well as merchants, have been attract-
ed hither, men of solid attainments as well as men heavy in
Wall street. On the verge of a hill commanding a view
of the glittering expanse beneath, stands a stone structure
having an air of mediaeval repose and seclusion. It looks
like the home of a scholar. Here Dr. John Lord prepares
those recondite and elcq[uent lectures for which he has
long been distinguished, and from here, more recently, he
sent forth The Old Roman World, that brilliant and influ-
ential addition to our list of historical writings. Prof. Wil-
liam H. Woodbury, the eminent German scholar, whose
text-books have a world-wide reputation, also has his home
here • and at the head of a chief avenue lives Mr. Joseph
B. Lyman, a gentleman of rising literary celebrity, who oc-
cupies a responsible position on the staff of one of the great
dailies of the metropolis, and whose accomplished wife is
a frequent and valued contributor to several well-known
periodicals. At a little distance is the home of Mr. Wm. W.

', f\

•i\<\

SEASIDE RESORTS.

, 111

•4

Gillespio, of tlie excellent Advocate, a newspaper well sus-
tained and appreciated, and having an enviable local repu-
tation. Still further on is the simple residence of the Hon.
Truman Smith, once a name of power in State and national
l^olitics. Advancing years have quenched the vigor of
mind and the rugged eloquence that made him famous in
his prime ; but they have not abated the soundness of his
judgment or the warmth of his patriotism.

But looked at merely as a place of resort for the summer
months, Stamford really offers rare inducements to people
who consider quiet comfort as more to be desired than os-
tentation and empty show. Of this class little less than a
thousand, mostly New-Yorkers, come hither every season.
The place possesses an enchanting combination of country
and suburban charms. There are delightful drives shaded
by patriarchal elms and maples, and winding up to }ieights
from which there is wealth of broad and beautiful views.
There are good facilities for salt-water bathing, and to those
partial to the angler's art unusual attractions are offered.
Picnics are not unfrequent, and " The Cave " and " Pound
Rock '* are especially popular in this connection. The lat-
ter is a precipitate ledge that runs far into the sea, orna-
mented with clumps of trees, beneath whose leafy spray it
is pleasant to recline and ivatch the tides that ripple at its
base, or look away for many leagues on waters dotted with
snow-white sails, or ruffled by great boats outward bound.

At a brief remove from this peninsula is another of ex-
ceeding natural beauty known as " Sliippan Point," which
is to be placed in charge of a landscape gardener, and laid
out partly as a park and partly as grounds for private resi-
dences. It is clear to see that in a few years it will thus
become one of the loveliest features of a lovely environ, to
which, all things considered, it is not strange that those

SEASIDE RESORTS.

who come once, Hliould wish to come a;?ahi, or thiit tho
army of inviidiTS should each year bo augm.iited by now
recruit.s. If tho city readers, wearied wltli the "human
hubbub/'vviil embark on the pretty steamer " Shippan " at
Fulton Ferry some summer afternoon, ho or she will re-
ceive kind care at the hands of Captain Waterbury, liave a
pleasant sail, and at tho end of tho journey find Stamford,
of whose charms tho half has not been told.

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23 WIST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4S03

'ht mominim of jianatra.

THE DOMINIOxX OF CANADA.

LAKE ONTAEIO AND THE BIVEB ST. LAWRENCE.

We have placed the Hudson River trip in the front rank
of summer attractions for the tourist in accordance, un-
questionably, with popular opinion ; aud the superior
claims of the Upper Mississippi have also received their
due acknowledgment. The voyage down the River Saint
Lawrence, however, is also a river-trip, and claims high
place ; and if all these were to be directly compared, with-
out considering the great difference between them, it would
be hard indeed to give either great trip only the second
place. The three routes are, however, vastly dissimilar
and each incomparable. The professed tourist never tliinks
of omitting either ; and the chance traveler who peruses
these pages wl ile sailing upon the emerald waters of On-
tario or the Saint Lawrence will be quite ready to admit
that " all the world," some time or other, has honored that
great excursion. We trust that other readers will see
enough in the summary view we give below to leave no
longer unsought so delightful and inspiriting an enjoy-
ment.

The Gulf of Saint Lawrence is about 250 miles in length,
and the rivar is the furthest navigable of any of the waters
on the globe. From the mouth to the harbor of Quebec
the distance is 360 miles, and vessels from Europe ascend
to Montreal, which is 180 miles higher up its course ;

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

wliile vessels suited to river navigation (as liigli as 500
tons burthen) may traverse uninterruptedly the entire
distance between the sea md the mouth of the Saint
Louis River, at Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. In other words,
the River Saint Lawrence, with some little help from man
in the shape of canals here and there, for the matter of
actual navigation, really comprises the waters called by
the following names : Gulf and River Saint Lawrence,
Lake Ontario, Niagara River, Lake Erie, Detroit River,
Lake Saint Clair, River Saint Clair, (these three bodies of
water have no more claim to separate names than the
Saint Lawrence proper between the Long Sault and Mon-
treal, as W3 shall see,) Lake Huron, Saut Sainte Marie or
Saint Mary's River, Lake Superior, and Saint Louis River.
If the whole length from the head of Lake Superior be
reckoned, it will be 1910 miles ; or, including the Saint
Louis, the head stream of that lake, 2100 miles. The
width of the waters varies greatly ; at the mouth of the
gulf, meeting the sea, 100 miles ; at Tadoussac, the en-
trance, perhaps, of the river into the gulf, 22 miles ; at
Lake Saint Peter, above Quebec, 9 miles ; at Montreal and
Quebec, 2 miles, etc. The waters thus located drain a ter-
ritory of over 400,000 square miles, and the " basin" con-
tains, it is said, more than half of all the fresh water on
the globe. Peculiarly, therefore, tliis great Northern
Amazon may call for our study and admiration. To us it
will be most interesting — along the limited portion from
Niagara to Anticosti, wliich is comprised in our present
plan — because of its " thousand isles," its exciting rapids,
its tributary streams with their rapids and falls, the con-
trasting nationalities and religions on its opposing banks,
the antiquity of its legends and history, its cities and its
village-edged shores, the exquisite beauty of its pernicious

■*»■

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

water, and last, but by no means least, the abounding fish
witliin its own and its tributary streams.

The portion of " tlie Great River" west of Lake Ontario
will be found described under the proper titles ; our voyage
now begins where the Niagara ceases to disturb naviga-
tion, at the head of Ontario, and follows the emerald cur-
rent until after the ocean sends in upon it the tides which
destroy its loveliness and crown it with grandeur. The
routes by which the traveler may reach Lewiston, stand-
ing midway (7 miles each side) between Niagara Falls and
Lake Ontario, and at a point where the lower Suspension
Bridge kindly bars to navigation the foaming river, will
be found under the article entitled Niagara River, and
the routes over the lake and river may be found at the end
of this article. It may be well, however, to state here,
that tourists, desiring for any reason to omit the lake, or a
portion of it, from their voyage, may take cars direct from
Niagara Falls over the New- York Central Railway to Ro-
chester, where, changing to train for Charlotte, they go to
the lake at that point, (this will allow 5 hours of Ontario
sailing between Charlotte and Sackett's Harbor, opposite
Kingston ;) or may keep on to Syracuse and change to
Oswego and Syracuse branch for Oswego, or to Rome and
change to Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg road for
Sackett's Harbor, (a rather roundabout route.) But the
best way is to take the American Express steamboats at
Lewiston and sail right through (changing at Ogdeijsburg)
to Montreal.

Having completed the visit to Niagara, then, with that
notable railway ride along the brink of the chasm below
the Falls, let us suppose ourselves upon the deck of the
steamer which shall convey us to Ogdensburg. Behind
us is the lower Suspension Bridge, at one side is the vil-

TUB DOMINION OF CANADA.

i >

lage of Lewiston, and opposite lies the Canadian village of
Queenstown. Neither of these places possess much inter-
est for tourists. The Brock Monument, at Lewiston, is
Included usually in the Niagara visit ; and beyond this,
and the fact that the British burned every building in
Lewiston, and " gallantly defended " Queenstown, (as the
Canadian guide-books truly say,) during the war of 1813,
we need not delay. Our voyage now commences, and for
7 miles lies along the Niagara River. The stream, anon
so turbid and precipitous, grows more gentle as we near
the great lake, and its banks betray but little of their
character as hitherto displayed. The river retains, rather
than enlarges, its accustomed breadth, and at Fort Niagara
pours into Lake Ontario at a level 334 feet below that of
Lake Er.'e. We may observe the fort as we pass, recalling
the scenes of bloody conflict between whites and Indians,
and English and French in the years long gone.

The village of Youngstown lies a short distance south
of the fort. On the other shore Fort Massasauga formerly
guarded, and Niagara Town profited by, the l^ead of the
lake. The construction of the Welland Canal, however,
has damaged the latter, as the Erie Canal injured the Ame-
ric '.n towns, and Massasauga is only interesting as a monu-
ment of a past age.

The Welland Canal terminates northward at Port Dal-
housie, on Lake Ontario, about 10 miles west of the mouth
of the- Niagara — a work so important to navigation that
the tourist will be sufficiently interested to pay it a visit.
The canal extends from Port Dalhousie to Port Colbourne,
on Lake Erie, the last part of it being conducted by way
of the Welland River, from which it takes its name. The
canal is navigable for vessels of 500 tons, is 28 miles in

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

length, and has two feeders. By means of it, trap ship-
ment to avoid Niagara Falls is rendered needless.

We now enter upon the last of the five Great Lakes of
the North. The first glance at the sheet of water lying so
placid and brilliant before us can hardly fail to provoke
the exclamation, '* Beautiful I" So said the Indian dwell-
ers in this region wlien they first beheld the lake, saying,
in their native tongue, "Ontario!" The journey to Capo
Saint Vincent is not, perhaps, so interesting in its land
scenery as very many others ; but nowhere, save on the
preceding sections of this great water, does the traveler
have so unfailing a source of delight in looking into the
emerald depths over the vessel's side. The whole State
of New- York is full of lakes, whose water is of a beautiful
color, and often sweet to the taste ; but to sail for a day
over one perpetual, liquid volume, whose sparkling and
flashing green surpasses the hue of Nature's carpet, is a
pleasure that will be abundantly appreciated by an atten-
tive observer.

The Lake Ontario is the lowest and smallest of the great
chain above alluded to, extending 180 miles from west to
east, with a breadth of 55 miles at the greatest, 35 for the
average. Its mean depth is 500 feet. By reason of its
great depth it is much less disturbed by storms than Lake
Erie, and its na\igation much less obstructed by ice, being
very rarely interrupted. Its chief sujiply comes, of course,,
through the Niagara chasm; but the Genesee, Oswego,
Black, and other rivers bring other considerable access
Bions.

The first noticeable feature of the lake shore is the Lake
Ridge, a narrow elevation on the south, ranging from the
mouth of the Niagara to Sodus Bay, in Wayne county.
New- York, nearly parallel with the edge of the lake, and

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

at a distance of from 3 to 8 miles back. Its elevation is in
some places nearly 200 feet above the lake, and pfenerally
exceeds ICO feet. Tno lino of the ridge is not, however,
always sharply defined. Being composed of sand and gra-
vel, it makes one of the finest natural roads in the world,
and the principal highway along this side of the lake has
been upon its summit. This ridge was doubtless an ancient
shore line.

The New- York, or, as it is oddly called, the American
side, will not call for cur special attention henceforward un-
til we reach the mouth of tne Genesee, while the Canadian
shore is presently of much interest. It is unfortunate that
both the American and the Canadian lines of boats follow
their respective shores — chiefly from necessity of avoiding
constant crossing — so exclusively. The Auierican boats go
to Toronto alone of Canadian towns ; but the opposition do
not even do as well by the Americans as that, sending, in-
stead, an extra steamer to Lewiston, and neglecting Roches-
ter (Charlotte) altogether. As the chief attractions of this
lake-trip, howevei lie in the passing view, the most im-
portant towns will, best be visited separately, if at all, and
often by other routes.

The surface of the country on the north shore rises
gradually from the lake shore and spreads out in broad
plains. The lake extends some 50 or 60 miles west of the
point at which we entered it. The important Canadian
city of Hamilton stands upon Burlington Bay, at the ex-
treme western limit, invisible from our boat. Hamilton is
built upon an ftcclivity extending back from the bay to the
base of a mountain which rises in the rear of the town to
a coD^derable eminence, affording a fine view. The name
of the founder was given the city, and it dates from 1813.
Population, 25,000 ; historical reminiscences as a " retiring-

TUE DOMINION OF CANADA.

■?*r

room" for several British commantlcrs in " the last war,"
some of whom afterward advanced to victory. Burlington
Bay is one of the most commodious and safe harbors of
Ontario, 5 miles long and 2 wide, and navigable in all
parts. It abounds in pike, bass, perch, and eels, caught
preferably by " spearing." During the winter, a number
of spearing-houses are erected on the bay ; they are ren-
dered impervious to light, and a circular hole about a yard
in diameter is cut in the ice, which, in the dark, renders
the water quite clear. A brilliantly painted decoy-fish is
made available, and, while the unhappy dwellers in the
deep hover around it in admiration, the spear-holders
testify their admiration in a most direct manner. This
l^astime is forbidden by law wholly after February, and at
any season must not victimize any fish but bass, pike, and
a few other kinds.

The cities of no two sections of the United States differ
more strikingly (we had almost said so strikingly) than
those of the two Provinces of Ontario (formerly called
Upper or Western Canada) and Quebec, (Lower or East-
ern Canada.) Of the former, Toronto leads, while in the
other section Quebec is most strikingly peculiar. In the
one, American bustle and hurry seem to have exerted a
contaminating influence ; in the other, the ancient land-
marks have not been removed. It will bo well for the
tourist upon whose immediate route lie both Provinces to
mark the character of each as he has opportunity. Ham-
ilton, " though not equaling Chicago in its sudden growth
and expanse, (as says the Canadian Iland-Book,) has,
from its zeal and eagerness, been named * the ambitious
little city.' " It owes its greatness to its fine location, and
its prominence as the seat of the Great Western Railway
of Canada. It has many fine buildings of most modem

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

style, but it is indebted mainly for tlieir beauty to a valu-
able quarry of very linflit freestone or limestone near tbe
city. Tliero is a number of pleasing resorts outside the
"heated pavements," which we need not specify here.
King street is the chief thoroughfare. Hotels, Anglo-
American and the City Hotel.

Toronto may next interest us along the lake. The bay
upon which it stands is caused by a sand-bar, 7 miles long,
stretching out to the west and terminating in Gibraltar
Point. This bar has doubtless been caused by the action
of the lake-water and that of the River Don, which enters
the bay upon the east. The city itself stands on land
sloping too little to make the distant view one of interest.
Population, 60,000. In 1793, Governor Simcoe began the
oettlement under the name of York, changed, when it waa
incorporated in 1834, to Toronto — meaning, in the Indian
tongue, " the place of meeting." One of the principal tho-
roughfares, Yonge Street, extends, through a flourishing
district, to the rare length (for a street) of 30 miles. The
buildings are chiefly made of the material commonly called
" Milwaukee brick." The vicinity affords no very interest-
ing localities, and the visitor must content himself chiefly
with the public buildings — chiefly the University with its
Park.

Port Hope is 63 miles from Toronto, a pretty town after
the Canadian pattern, rather sombre to American taste usu-
ally, and chiefly interesting for the hunting in its vicinity.
Partridge, hares, woodchuck, and deer are the game
available. The back-country here abounds in lakes. One
route to the deer-shooting is. Port Hope to Lindsay by rail,
Lindsay to Fenelon Falls, Portage to Cameron Lake, and
then there is shooting on Cameron and Balsam Lakes and
up Brent River.

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

Coboiirg", 7 miles farther, county-aeat of Xorthumber-
lancl and Durliaiii, in a town of connidcTablo importance.
The Victoria (Metliodist) Collerre, cluirt(?rod 1842 by act of
Provincial Parliament, is tlio most interesting locality in
this vicinitv.

Passin*^ (Jrafton and Colbonrne, wo next como to
Presqno Isle Bay, (town of Brighton, ) a ))erfe(;t lagoon, ono
of the best of the many fine indentations of tho lake on
tho north coast.

Across tho lake, Rochester lies miles inland, on tho
Geneseo River, which comes down to Ontario, with its
famous leaps, 85 miles from Fort Niagara. Tho city and
its environs have been already described at length in tho
article on Geneseo Falls, and we only need here — at Char-
lotto, tho small town which serves as tho port of Roches-
ter — to notice the mouth of tho Genesee. Here, as at tho
other chief tributaries below, the muddy, shallow river
water does not at once minglo confusedly with tho clear,
deep flood of tho lake, \ it leaves a very distinct lino to
mark the point of division.

The next port (and the most populous) on tho American
Bhore, is Oswego, a city almost rivaling Rochester in the
beauty of its streets, and far surpassing it in its lofty posi-
tion on tho Oswego River, overlooking tho lake. Tho
pier (1259 feet long) at the light-house on the lake, is a fa-
vorite promenade in tho hours of twilight and moonlight.
Tho tourist will notice the demarkation of tho opposing
waters at tliis point also. Upon the edge of the Oswego
River, down upon the docks, several fine sulphur springs
(see Springs of New- York) were discovered some four or
five years ago, but have never been made available to
any extent. Population, 20,000. There is nothing to see
at Oswego that will interest the tourist much, beyond Fort

I , ^f^BP^^i^pjgwr^

THE D03rNI0I^ OF CANADA.

Ontario and tlie usual Indian stories, the great grain ele-
vators, and — when you are lucky enough to see it —
the lake mirage that occurs here when Nature demands
it. The famous system of " object-teaching" originated in
the public schools of Oswego.

Sackett's Harbor, on Black River Bay, 45 miles further
down, and 20 miles from the head of the Saint Lawrence,
was named for a Mr. Sackett, who came here and made a
\allage of it in 1799. Population now, 2000. Madison Bar-
racks is the name of a disused military post of the Nation-
al Government. The harbor, being the best upon the lake,
was made available as a naval station during that war
(1812) of which one, on this lake, never hears " the last."

Cape Vincent, which the Canadians, who have a pecu-
liar passion for nominal sanctity, call Cape Saint Vincent,
guards the entrance to the River Saint Lawrence. Just
before reaching it,, we pass a group of islands, of which
Steney, Gallop, and Duck are the largest. Amherst and
Grand Islands, much more important, are near the Can a,
dian shore, further down. There is nothing whatever of
interest at the Cape, unless it be found in the fading view
of the lake, or the railway depot on the wharf, terminating
the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railway.

On the opposite (northern) shore we have Kingston,
standing 4 or 5 miles in from the lake and river, upon
a harbor formed by Wolf and Garden Islands lying across
the Bay of Quint<S. The city was the original capital
of Canada. Modern as it aj^pears, it looks far back for
its history, as its advantageous locale did not fail to attract
the notice of the early French discoverers. The French,
under De Courcelles, began a settlement here in 1672, and
called their fort Cataraqui, which was afterward changed
to Frontenac. Colonel Bradstreet's expedition against

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

tho French and Indians destroyed Fort Frontenac, in
1758. The British captured and re-named the place
in 1762, since which time it has been called Kinj^ton.
Queenston, rather Queenstown, is a sort of complement
of Kingston, standing at the other extremity of Lake On-
tario. The military and naval defenses of Kingston are
second only to Quebec, of all the British stations ; and the
advantages of its commercial position are nearly as great.
It is not only at the outlet of the lake into the Great River,
but is the terminus (south) of the Rideau Canal, and also
at the junction of the waters of the Bay of Quinte and the
great Cataraqui Creek. Rideau Canal flows in a north-
eastecly course to Ottawa, follo^ving the course of the Ot-
tawa River much of the way. Population of Kingston,
about 20,000. The most interesting places to see in the
city are, the fortifications, including the forts on both
Henry and Frederick Points, with the martello towers and
long wooden bridge ; the Provincial Penitentiary, and the
two Colleges. Hotels — the Burnett House and the British
American, neither very far from the dock or from the
other.

The American traveler who has attentively noticed the
aspect of the two shores, will not fail to be struck with the
characteristic appearance of the city of Kingston, and so on
throughout his further journey. As we are now about to
reduce the breadth of our horizon from GO miles to 2, we
shall frequently have opportunity to compare Canadian
with American life. The towns of the latter have, in
most cases, that " bright red brick and painted wood"
look which distressed Charles Dickens so greatly thirty
years ago ; a look of activity, hurry, and business. On
the other side, as you approach a large town, you are
struck with the sombreness of its appearance, caused first

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

by the singular contrast wliicli a few ilasliing roofs of un-
painted tin make witli the rather dismal stone in almost
universal use ; while at the smaller places the square stono
dwellings and stores are supplemented often by ill-kept
buildings of wood. The contrast extends to the people
also. On the Oswego wharf, the irrepressible newsboy
and his brother, the boot-black, will divide the air with
the hackmen ; on the north shore, the boat's arrival ■will
be as quiet an event as the departure of an Erie train from
a country station. So, too, there is a marked distinction
in the general look of the country, affording a continual
study, which can hardly fail of beguiling any possibly te-
dious hours.

We have now fairly entered the River Saint Lawrence.
From Kingston to Montreal it is by some natives called
Cataraqui ; by the early French settlers the whole stream,
down to the gulf, was often popularly called the Great
River, as it deserved ; and the name Canada was probably
applied to the river in honor of the French settler, De
Cane, before it was given to the adjacent country ; but the
prevaiUng name has always beeu Saint Lawrence. Jac-
ques Cartier, the famous navigator, began to explore it on
the calendar festival of that martyr, in the year 1535, and,
like a good Cliristian, honored the Saint rather than him-
self, by naming the waters for him.

It is an unpleasant duty to begin so pleasing a journey
with a warning ; but we must present here a leaf from the
book of experience. The traveler who betakes himself to
the Saint Lawrence voyage, will often reach its commence-
ment wearied with a long railway journey, and in such
a case is, more than another, exposed to the evils of chang-
ing air and water. But, for any one, the water of the
River Saint Lawrence, though beautiful to the eye, and

Lg-V. .._»»-„■■..— .^ 1 .^

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

lor-

Iho
id

even delicious to the taste, is exceedingly pernicious, in-
ducing diarrhoea, often violent, when drunk to any consid-
erable extent. The traveler is often cautioned against
«' Montreal water," and may think the fault is in the dark
Ottawa ; but it is in the sweet water of the Great River,
beginning at Cape Vincent, and extending as far as to tho
limit of the tides, above Quebec.

The first 40 miles of the Saint Lawrence have been
Cfxlled " The Lake of the Thousand Isles," from the con-
tinuous string of islands, isles, and islets, which interrupt
the channel at all sorts of angles and distances, from Capo
Vincent clear to Ogdensburg. The statistical people have
declared that the exact number (of which we are unfortu-
nately in ignorance) is nearer 1800 than 1000 ; though
how any human bei-ng ever resisted the romance and poe-
try of nature in this lovely " lake" sufficiently to make
his journey arithmetical, is a puzzle to us. The islands
are ** of every imaginable shape, size, and appearance, some
of them barely visible, others covering many acres ; some
only a few yards long, others several miles in length ;
some presenting little or nothing but bare masses of rock,
whilst others are so thickly wooded over that nothing but
the most gorgeous green foliage in summer is to be seen,
whilst in autumn the leaves present colors of different
hues hardly imaginable. The passage through the Thou-
sand Islands by steamer is generally made in the early
morning. You pass close to, and near enough, often, to
cast a pebble from the deck of the steamer on to them,
cluster after cluster of circular little islands, whose trees,
perpetually moistened by the water, have a most luxuri-
ant leaf, their branches overhanging the current. Again,
you pass little winding passages and bays between the
islands, the trees on their margin interlacing above them.

' If

THE DOMINION OF CANAJ>A.

iiil

and forming lierc and there natural bowers ; yet tlio wa-
ters of tliest) bays are so deep that steamers might pass
under their shade. Then opens up a magnificent sheet of
water, many miles wide, with a large island apparently di-
viding it into two great rivers ; but as you approach it, you
discover that it is but a group of small islands, the river
being divided into many i)arts, looking like silver threads.
Again, the river seems to come to an abrupt termination
four or five hundred yards in advance of you ; but as you
approach the threatening rocks, a channel suddenly opens
out on the right. You are whirled into it, and a magnifi-
cent amphitheatre of lake opens out before you. This,
again, to all appearance, is bounded by a dense green
bank ; but at your approach, the mass is moved, as if in a
kaleidoscope, and a hundred beantifuFlittle isles appear in
its place. Such, for upward of 40 miles, is the scenery
through which you glide."

Clayton, the first landing after leaving the Cape, is about
15 miles down the Saint Lawrence, about in front of the
channel between Gore Island on the north, and Howe and
Wolf (the latter one the most westerly) on the south side
of the river. A railway is projected between this point
and Philadelphia, on the Rome road. Clayton is a favor-
ite stopping-place for Izaak Walton's disciples, and has
good hotel accommodations at very low prices. The post-
office address is Clayton, Jefierson county. New- York.
The place was formerly known as Freud Creek.

On the Canadian shore opposite is the village of Gana-
noque, in Leeds county, at the mouth of a small creek.

Cornelia is a small place just below Clayton ; but the
next point of importance is Alexandria Bay, another largo
fishing station, some 25 miles lower, opposite the northern
extremity of Wellesley Island, and just above Bathurst

SHaMMHeM

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

Island. This town was the first of the rivcr-settlcmcnts
to be occupied as a waterinj^-place, and a capital one it is'
with good (and cheap) hotel accommodations. It is built
upon a massive pile of rocks, in a highly romantic neigh-
borhood. Two or three miles below, there is a spot where
100 of the islands may be comprised in one view. Ameri-
cans will prefer the New- York side of the river for their
headquarters in these great fishing-grounds, as well foi-
the greater frequency of hotels as because nine tenths of
all the summer visitors come from " the States," and make
life at Clayton and Alexandria so very agreeable. There
is no difficulty in getting canoes or accommodations at
any of the farm-houses, but hotels are hardly to be found
save at the points just named. Life on this river is emi-
nently primitive. The fishing among the islands for pike,
maskinonge, (often as large as 40 or 50 x)ounds,) black
bass, doree, etc., is the best in the whole length of the river.
Myriads of wild fowl are caught at great advantage, on
account of the ambush one may have upon the little
woody islets ; and spearing fish at night is still another
of the sports that may be enjoyed here.

Morristown is a post-village below Alexandria, near
Black Lake, inland. The village is 14 miles from Ogdens-
burg. On the Canadian shore opposite lies Brockville, an
important town in the united counties of Leeds and Green-
ville, Ontario Province. Population, 3000. Campbell's
Hotel is in sight from the landing, a short distance up.
At this point in the river the great multitude of islands
ceases, and we come somewhat unexpectedly upon the
open river, 2 miles wide. Henceforth most of the islands
wliich we shall see will be large, and in the rnidst of the
rapids.

Ogdensburg and Prescott lie opposite each other, more

f II
II

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

than 40 miles from Cape Vincent. The former is the
most northerly town of importance, except Rouse's Point
and Plattsburg, in the State of New- York. Population,
about 10,000. It lies on land sloping considerably up from
the Saint Lawrence and its tributary, the Os^vogatchie
River, commanding a fine view ; is much more quiet and
old-fashioned than most of the cities or large towns which
one commonly sees in the State, and contains one really
very singular residence. It was built a long time a'go by
a Frenchman, in a quite indescribable style, resembling
the French dwellings in Canada more nearly than any
thing familiar to American tourists at home. The grounds,
quite in the heart of the city, occupy an entire " block" or
" square," and are surrounded by a high, disnal, red-brick
wall. Within, the dwellings of the various animals —
horses, hens, pigs — are mainly adorned with elm-bark
walls. There is considerable roadwav, and a mansion of
much apparent splendor, which must be seen to be appre-
ciated. The visitor will also go to see the ruins of the old
Fort, " La Presentation," built in 1748, to shelter the mis-
sion of the Abbe Piquet, " the Apostle of the Iroquois."

Ogdensburg is connected by rail with a number of pro-
minent points south, v/est, and east. It is the proper ter-
minus of the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Railway ;
but the tourist will prefer to know that it is also at the
western end of the Northern Railway, coming from Rouse's
Point, which is east by north. By this road tourists, who
have been enjoying Lakes Champlain and Horicon, come
to Ogdensburg to see the Islands, or even to go northward
through the Rapids ; and here, also, of course, the Rapids
may be omitted from our tour and the Champlain ioute be
entered upon. Through fare to Rouse's Point, $4. The
wharf of this railway at Ogdensburg is a very superior

■1^

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

one, and the scene, when a steamer lands its passengers or
receives them, is very pleasing.

Prescott, on the Canada shore, (population 2500,) is ra-
pidly recovering its prestige, lost when the construction of
the Rideau Canal won its trade away to Kingston ; for now
the railway just named approaches it at Ogdensburg, and.
another connects it with Ottawa City, on the Ottawa River ;
beside which advantages, it is on the line of the Grand
Trunk route. (For the fine trip up the Ottawa River, seo
article under that title.) From Prescott may be seen the
windmill and the ruined houses, mementoes of the attempt
at invasion by Schultz and his band in 1838.

Past Windmill Point, a mile or two below Ogdensburg, on
the Canada side, we begin to discern a change in the flow-
ing of the river. The waters show signs of unusual com-
motion ; their current, at the shores, is noticeably accele-
rated ; and now, when we behold again the reappearing
islands, off Point Cardinal, we find ourselves for the first
time in the Rapids of the Saint Lawrence !

Wo shall not undertake to describe the " shooting of the
rapids" in detail throughout their long 'and almost unin-
terrupted exten.t from Point Cardinal to Montreal. A few
facts are all for which we can afford space, beside a list of
the rapids. The channel through the chief rapids was
first found some 30 years ago by observing the course
which some lost rafts took; and steamboats began to
" shoot" this course in 1840, piloted by the Indian Teron-
hiahere. The pilots are generally Indians now ; but the
absurd stories told by some guide-books about their exclu-
sive infallibility, should be taken cum grano salts. The
passage is perhaps the most exciting experience possible
to. tourists anywhere but on the Ottawa or the ocean ; that
at the last one, the La Chine, near Montreal, being the

.^.1

\ '%l

• \i

' ■!*.

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

culmination of the whole journey. In the course of this
rapid the vessel passes between rocks not 3 feet from the
side, one of which can be seen grimly rising several feet
above the water. There is also a very perceptible pitch
and plunge as the boat passes this point. There need bo
no fear on the part of the most timid in " shooting" the ra-
pids ; for the course is perfectly safe, perfectly familiar to
the pilots, and no accident has ever occurred with loss of
life. So nearly as we can state now, there has been but
one case in which a vessel'has missed the channel ; then
she was at once guided to shore, and no damage whatever
distressed the people on board.

Of course, it is impossible to pass the rapids on the re-
turn trip; and for the accommodation of steamers on
these, and before the discovery of the channel, on the
down trips, canals have been cut upon the Canada shore.
V/ e append a list of the rapids and the canals.

At Point Cardinal, the Gallopes Rapids, 4 in number ;
at Point Iroquois, Plate Island, the Plate ; the Depleau,
just above Mariatown. Now we come to the Long Sault,
through many (several large) islands. This rapid is 9
miles long, and runs at the rate of 20 miles to the hour.
Emerging into the Lake Saint Francis, {5} miles wide,) the
current subsides only partially, until we have passed its
length of 25 miles ; the river then narrows, and within its
contracted part are the Coteau, Cedars, and Cascades. At
the end of these, the dark Ottawa, the greatest of the
streams which flow into the Saint Lawrence, comes stonn-
ing down to seek the ocean with the pure waters of the
Great River. Parrot Island stands at its mouth. The Lake
Saint Louis, 12 miles long and 6 wide, leads us now more
placidly to the La Chine Rapid, the shortest brt the most
terrible of all ; and after them we shortly behold the tow-
ers of Notre Dame and the Victoria Bridge at Montreal.

TOE DOMINION OF CANADA.

CANALS ON THE SAINT LAWRENCE.

LetKjth
Milei. Locks, in FriC.

Gallopeg Canal 2

Point Iroquois 3

Rapid Plate • 4

Farren'a Point

Cornwall (Lons SauU) 11 1^^

Beauharnois (Coteau)

Cedars, Split Rock, Cascade 11 X 9

1
2
1

La Chine .

8;^ 5

8
6

11.6
4

• ■

82.6

41.9

The tourist should not fail, if he can command his time,
to take a few steps backward, ffoinfr up, say the La Chino
Canal. By this means, and by that of making a visit at
some points along* the shore of the rapids, he will see the
boat descending the course, and gain a more perfect idea
of the scene than he could }iave by experiencing the
" shooting" only.

Returning now to the Point (Cardinal) at which we first
encountered tlie ra|)ids, we resume our observation of oth-
er features of our journey. A little above the entrance
of the Long Sault, 28 miles from Ogdensburg, on the
American side,' Grass River or creek has caused the forma-
tion of ?. small post-village, called Louisville, in Saint
Lawrence county. Stages run from this place to Massena
Springs, (see article under that name,) 7 miles distant, on
the Racket River. Dickinson's Landing is a little further
down, on the Canada shore, at the head of the Long Sault
Canal.

At the lower end of the Long Sault, where the north
and south channels dash against each other so forcibly as
to give the name of " Big Pitch" to the point of contact,
are the villages of Cornwall on the north shore, and Saint
Regis, on the south. Excellent duck-shooting is to be had

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THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

at Cornwall, in tho fall of the year, when the birds spend
Sf'vcrnl AV(<']is at the foot of the rapids before they go
south. Saint llegis is an Indian village, (population 000,)
quaint and interesting because of its (Iroquois) inhabitants,
but also noticeable on our route as the j)oint where the
boundary line of 45°, between the United States and tho
Dominion of Canada, strikes the Saint Lawrence. Tho
Saint Regis River is at a little distance, wholly on the
New- York side of the line.

The Lake Saint Francis, at the head of which Saint Re-
gis stands, is a very attractive part of the Great River ; tho
Lake Saint Louis will be more interesting from the occa-
sional and tantalizing glimpses which one gets of Mont-
real in the winding course of the steamer.

Caughnawaga, (cok-nah-wau-gah,) 10 miles from Mont-
real, is a curious little Indian settlement, just above the La
Chine Rn.pid. Here, better than anywhere else, one may
see to what degradation the aboriginal race has sunk.
Without any of their native grandeur of character, debas-
ed, immoral, and wretchedly poor, the huts of these un-
happy creatures will hardly be places for the tourist to
visit with pleasure. A great many of them will be seen
as we travel along, particularly in Montreal, where many
of them spend the hours of daylight in petty street-trade.

This brings us to the great commercial capital of the
Canadas, the city of Montreal. The traveler will land at
the splendid granite wharf, and make his way up to the
business portion, where he will find abundant hotel accom-
modation. The Saint Lawrence Hall, and the Otta\yk
House, both on Great Saint James street, which runs i>ar-
allel to the river shore, are the first hotels ; the Donne
gana, on Notre Dame street, one block nearer the river, is
also first class. Besides these leading establishments, there

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

are many other comforta))lo liouses and cafes, wlioro tra-
velers of all ranks and classes may bo lodged and regaled
accordinor to the varied humors of their palates and their
purses. The terms at the chief hotels are ^A \)vr day, in
silver or Cnnnda nKmey ; ^ATA) in greenbacks.

For routes from Xew-Yorlv to Montreal dirc^ct, see article
entitled Tup: Saguenay Hiver. A very i)leasant route,
though not quite direct, is by \vay of the Stanstead, Shef-
field, and Chambly Railway, to Lake Memphromagog,
(whore a number of wealthy Mcmtrealers h«we their sum-
mer residences,) and thence down the Connecticut Valley
(see sketch under that title) from Newport, Vermont, by
the Connecticut and Passumpsic, Connc^cticut River, and
New-York and Boston Express Line Railways.

The ** J?i'oau\vay" rad "Bowery" of Montreal may bo
found, in Great Saint James strecjt, on which are Lhe Saint
Lawrence (opposite the Post-office) and Ottawa Hotels,
Molson Bank, the American Consul's, (in the first-named
hc'tel,) the Colonial (dry- floods) Hall, (^te. ; and Notre Dame
street, next towarl the river, on wliicli are the Donnegana
Hotel, and the principal stores for all sorts of goods. The
bankers and brokers are on Saint Sacvement street, which
bounds the Convent of Notre Dame on the north. The
traveler, particularly if Montreal be his first point in the
Domimon, will want to visit these gentlemen, as American
money is most decidedly uncurrent across the line, the very
beggars iriii;;-lng it back at you. Silver, gold, or Canada
paper money may be i)urcliased at the same rates as rule
in New- York ; telegraphic communication being kept up
with true brokers' constancy.

The settlement of Montreal dates fnmi 1535, when
Jacques Cartier, the French navigator, sailing under com-
mission of Francis L through these northern waters, reach-

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

ed (October 2d) tho Indian settlement of Ilocholaga. Ho
was so pleased with tho splendid mountain lyin^ juBt back
of the settlement, that he called it, in his fidelity to hia
fidelity to his monarch, Mont Royal ; but tho settlement,
afterward made by Europeans, was not called by tho cor-
ruption of that title which now designates tho city, until
more than two centuries after. The French authorities
consecrated a site upon which they founded the city, call-
ing it Villo Marie, on August ICth, 1C43. The British be-
came the possessors of the city September 8th, 17C0. Gene-
ral Montgomery captured it in November, 1775, and held
it until the following summer. There have been 3 great
fires here — 1765, 1768, 1853 — which have done much, as
fires always do, toward bringing the general appearance
of the city into its present modernness. The si)lcndld lime-
stone quays date fron^ a little after 18^0. l^opulation,
about OO.OOO.

The view which wo gain of the mountain, island, and
city of Montreal, is very grand. The mountain is visible
far back in Lake Saint Louis, and there, too, we even
catch a glimpse of the city ui^on the island, " with its tin
roofs," as Thoreau has said, " whose reflections fall upon
the eye like the clash of cymbals on the ear. Above all,"
(to quote further from this genial writer,) " the church of
Notre Dame is conspicuous, and anon the Bonsecours
Market-house, occupying a commanding position on the
quay, in the rear of the shipping. This city makes the
more favorable impression from being approached by
water, and also being built of stone, a gray limestone
found on the island. Here we have found a city's harbor,
to which ships of 600 tons can ascend, and where vessels,
drawing 15 feet, lie close to the wharf, 540 miles from the
Gulf; the Saint Lawrence being here 3 miles wide."

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THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

Other distancos of Montreal are : 180 miles soutli-wost from
Quebec, and 420 nortli from New- York. The Mount Iloyal
Is about 1000 feet high. The island is 30 miles lonjr, and
10 at its greatest breadth ; the city lies upon its south side,
and a branch of the Ottawa lliver comes into the Saint
Lawrence opposite, where it is divided again for a little
by the Island of Jesus (23 miles by 0) into 2 branchcjs or
months, called the Saint John and the Prairie Rivers.
The ride " around the mountain," giving one an oppor-
tunity to see something of this section, is a favorite one
with residents, as is also that of La Chine, where, at the
proper hours, one may enjoy the great sight of the steam-
boats and rafts *' shooting" the rapids.

The places to see in Montreal are many : an American
will be most surprised in the older or lower part of the
town, beginning in the vicinity of Notre Dame Cathedral.
This quarter resembles Quebec considerably in its medisB-
val, uncouth, indescribable houses and streets. If possible,
the visitor, who wishes to see the real peculiar life of these
French Canadians, should be in Montreal on the Corpus
Christi festival of the Roman Church, otherwise colled
^ete Dicu, (occurring, this year, June 14th,) when the
" Host" is carried in solemn procession through the streets,
and an immense throng of believers bow in veneration be-
fore it. The Notre Dame Cathedral stands near the quays
and the Bonsecours Market, and, hardly excepting the
Victoria Bridge, is the greatest object of interest iu the
city. Indeed, the Roman Catholic churches are first in the
usual catalogue of tourists ; for this is a Roman Catholic
city to all intents and purposes. It is the see of a bishop
of that church , but is also the see of an Anglican arch-
bishop, who is the Metropolitan of Canada. The great
cathedral is of Gothic architecture, 255 feet long, 134 wide ;

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ii\

witli 2 principal towers, 220 feet high; the g^eat hell,
whose ringing is an event, weighs 14 tons, and occupies
the south tower, while in the other are a chime of hells ;
and the church will contain 10,000 to 12,000 people.
There is a convent connected with the estate. The Jesuit
Church, on Bleury street, has the finest frescoing in the city,
or, some say, in the land The new Christ Cathedral of
the English Church on Xotre Dame street, and the Irish
Cathedral, and the church of the Scotch " Kirk," on La
Gauchetiere street, are each well worthy a visit. So, also,
one will wish to see the Crystal Palace, tho Skating llink,
the Hotel Dieu, the Molson Bank, a most ornate edilice, on
Great Saint James street, the McGill College, on the moun-
tain side, the Bank of Montreal, near Notre Dame, the
monument (1801) to Nelson, in Trafalgar square, at the
Place Jacques Cartier, and th(3 Ciiamp do jVIars. At the
latter place you will see fine drilling, but you may meet
the " red-coats" everywhere in the city, as, indeed, in all
Canada. 'J'horeau sa?d, with more pungency, perhaps, but
with much the same spirit that would animate most
Yankees here : " The soldier here, as everywhere in Ca-
nada, appeared to be put forward, and by his best foot.
On every prominent ledge you could see England's hands
holding the Canadas, and I judged by tho redness of her
knuckles that slie would soon have to let go.'' Montreal
is the heatl quarters of the British forces in North- America,
and is under command of Major-General Russell, one of iho
noblest and most genial Christian gentlemen in the land.
Beside all these matters of interest to strangers, there are,
of course, the usual places and things curious in a city or
a metropolis. There is nothing of note in the local govern-
ment ; for the Parliament buildings, formerly located here,
were burned in 1849 by a political mob, have been re-

THE DOMINION OP CANADA,

placed by otliers at Quebec, that city having been made
the seat of government in consequence.

The finest views of the city and vicinity are to be had
from the top of the great bell-tower of Notre Dame, from
the reservoir on the'shoulder, and the grounds of Mr. James
Redpath, on the summit, of the Mount Royal. Thcso places
are usually all accessible. But the Victorin Bikloe. which
spans the Great River at the city, is the lionjyw excellence
of Montreal, the eighth wonder of the world, the link of
the Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway pur-
poses only) the city of Montreal, on the island, with the
mainland to the south, giving to the ancient Ilochelaga
an unbroken railway communication of 1100 miles in
length, besides connections. The length of the bridge is
9194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. It rests, in this splendid
transit, upon 24 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry,
the central span being 330 feet in length. The heavy iron
tube through which the railway track is laid is, in its
largest dimensions, 22 feet high and 16 feet wide. The
total cost of this bridge was $0,300,000. It was formally
opened, with high pomp and ceremony, amidst great
popular rejoicings, by Albert, Prince of Wales, during his
visit to America in the summer of 1860. It is possible for
the visitor to obtain permission to walk through the great
tube, by applying at the Grand Trunk offices at Point
Charles, near the Bridge. Of course the time for such
a feat must bo carefully chosen. By this means one may
gain a bettor idea of the magnitude of the undertaking
than he would be likely to have by the mere rail transit.
On our journey we pass under the bridge, before reaching
the city — the smoke-stacks of steamboats being made so
that the upper portion of them can be lowered on occasion.

The " Ice Shove," a most imposing spectacle, may be

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

witnessed by those travelers who arrive at. Montreal to-
ward the beginning of April. This strange phenomenon
results from the crowding of the ice about a mile below
the city, where the channel of the river is comparatively
narrow ; there it is packed, piled, and frozen into a solid
mass of 20 to 30 feet in thickness, which, when lifted by
the rising waters above, and set in motion again by the
whole hydraulic power of the gigantic stream, rushes on-
ward until again impeded by the banks of the narrowing
river. The lateral pressure it there exerts forces the hor-
dage u[> on the land, where it not unfrequently accumu-
lates to the height of 50 feet.

Leaving Montreal, the tourist usually loses most of the
scenery to Quebec, as the journey is made between 7 r.M.
and 7 a.m. Our Saguenay-bound friends will be on the
river with us now, until they leave us at Tadoussac ; but
the excursions to Anticosti, Saint John's, and Halifax,
being really a sea voyage, are made in larger vessels.

Passing down the river below Longueil, (4 miles,) and
the junction of the north branch of the Ottawa, steering a
course among a number of islands scattered about in the
stream, we come to the head of Lake Saint Peter. This is
the third of the great exx)ansions of the Saint Lawrence,
and the last before the whole stream widens its course, and
casts itself into the Atlantic Ocean by the Gulf. We are
now 45 miles below Montreal. Here is a village called
Sorel, standing at the mouth of the river, which contri-
butes the waters of Lakes Champlain and Iloricon to the
great river. This strait is 80 niUes in length, and has
four names : Richelieu, Sorel, Saint John, and Chambly.
House's Point stands at its head, just over the interna-
tional boundary.

On the way to the lake, we should perhaps mention

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

Varcnnos, 1.") miles from Montreal, because of its mineral
pprino'H, now coming into some fame. But Sorel is our
first sto])|)ing-|)lace. The place is also called \Villiam
Henry, after Kino- William IV., who, when in the naval
service, and lying off Quebec, visited this shore. There
was a fort built here in 1G05, by De Tracey, and for many
years was the summer residence of successive governors
of Canada. The town occupies the old site. Tliere is
splendid snipe-shooting in this neighborhood in October,
and good fishing all the year among the islands.

The Lake Saint Peter is 25 miles long and 9 broad ; a
place of no manner of interest, excepting to such unlucky
wights as are " stuck " or shipwrecked in its miserable
basin. There is very good pike-fishing here, we should
say, and good duck-shooting along the shores ; but the
most part of the lake is shallow, and the channel, which
has been dredged out with much labor, is very intricate,
and in stormy weather the Lake Saint Peter is a dangerous
as well as uninteresting place. For want of other excite-
ment, the traveler by daytime, if by any chance tliere
might be such an individual, might here notice the rafts or
raftsmen of the river. They constitute quite a feature in
the river life. Oftentimes, one could see quite a collection
of the rafts lashed together, floating lazily down with the
current, or courting a breeze with huge pieces of canvas
spread out from an upright fir-pole. On the rafts each
proprietor erects a shanty for his temporary residence, oc-
cupied often several weeks, and when, with gay ly-decked
flag and sail-poles, shouting and singing " Canadian boat-
men," and a good impulse, these queer craft go hurrying
down the river, the effect is picturesque enough to enter-
tain many dull hours.

At the northern or lower end of Saint Peter we find the

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

city of Three Rivers, so named because tlio Saint Mau-
rice, pouring in its waters at this point, divides, as it
enters, into three channels. Tliis is about the middle
point between Montreal and Quebec, being 90 miles from
each. A lloman Catholic bishop has his seat here, and
the cathedral is said to be one of the finest in Canada.
The city is mainly indebted to the lumber business for its,
prosperity ; but the Saint Maurice Forges, where bog-iron
is converted into car-wheels, box-stoves, etc., have been in
operation for more than a century.

The River Saint Maurice is a large and important tribu-
tary of the Saint Lawrence, 400 miles in length, rising in
the fine lake country in the north, but very little is known
of it. A trip up this river is highly recommended to such
tourists as love to seek wild scenery through the difficul-
ties of a primitive country. There are innumerable small
lakes in the section between the Saint Maurice and the
Saguenay, and the woods and waters teem with those
creatures which seem to have been created for the delecta-
tion of sportsmen. '

About 30 miles up the Saint Maurice the River Shawe-
negan joins it, and a little above this point, on the former
stream, are the Falls of the Shawenegan, 150 feet high.
The current of the river, though rapid, may be ascended
by canoes, end the tourist may engage these, with voya-
geurs, at Three Rivers. There is another fall, the Grand-
Mere, above, with a portage between. A steamboat plies
on the waters of the Saint Francis between Grandes Piles
and La Tuque, the latter 80 miles from the Saint Law-
rence. Algonquin guides can be had hereabout who are
able to start a moose from cover in the proper season.

W^ should observe, before we leave Three Rivers, that

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

ided
ioya-
[aiid-
)lies
►iles
jaw-
are

that

it stands at the head of tide-water, 90 miles from Quebec
and 290 from the ocean.

Batiscan, Sainte Anne, and Jacques Car tier Rivers (the
last formerly a good salmoa stream, now being improved
again by a Quebec club) break the monotony of the re-
maining distance to Quebec.

Below Quebec we come to a new phase of the Great
River. Tlie banks, wliich have liitherto been low and fer-
tile, now begin to manifest a sense of the dignity wliich
becomes the shores of so mighty a torrent. We have long
passed the limit of salt and tide-water, and shall no longer
be iii danger of taking a treacherous beverage from over
the boat's side. Shortly after the river passes the walled
city, it begins to widen ; and, except that just beyond Isle
aux Coudres it is narrow for a little, the breadth is kept,
in the main, and steadily increased, being at Tadoussac,
which some call the end of the river, fully 18 miles.

The Quarantine for Quebec is 30 miles down, at Grosse
Isle — a beautiful place, but saddening in the memory of
the COOO Irish emigrants buried in one grave here, in the
terrible year of famine in their native land.

There is a group of islands about 36 miles down, of
which the chief, united by a belt of low land, are Crane
and Goose. They are the resort of myriads of geese,
ducks, and teal. The game-laws are rigidly kept by the
McPherson family, owners of this Seigneury ; but permis-
sion for a day's shooting can be obtained without diffi-
culty.

Chateau Richter, below, has a fine vicinity. The
swamps bearing the same name furnish 3000 or 4000
snipe per season, and so on. It is easier to say where
game is not to be had hereabout than where it is. The
Canadian Hand-Book remarks, " The shores of the whole

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

of tlie lower Saint Lawrence are probably unequaled in
the world for the numbers and variety of wild fowl which
frequent them. In the fall of the year especially, they
swarm with ducks, teal, and other sea-fowl. At the en-
trance of the gulf the bird-rocks are tenanted by large
numbers of gannets, puffins, guillemots, auks, and kitti-
wakes, and their eggs are an article of traffic to some of
the neighboring coasters."

There are also many attractive places here, particularly
the Falls of Sainte Anne, of Fereol, and the Seven Falls.
The ravine of the first of these is described as exceedingly
bold and fine.

The river below Goose Island, as far as the mouth of the
Saguenay, at Tadoussac, is nearly 120 miles wide ; the tides
rise 18 feet, the water is clear and ccjld, and the channel very
deep. Here may be seen oftentimes the black seal, the
white porpoise, and the black whale. Murray Bay, on the
north shore, and Riviere du Loup and Cacouna, on th'^
south, share with Tadoussac the distinction of sea-side re-
sorts for Montrealers.

Murray Bay, 80 or 90 miles below Quebec, is a small,
quiet watering-place, flanked with frowning hills and wild
scenery, with good fishing in a river of the same name.
It is a place well adapted to persons seeking quiet enjoy-
ment and society (being well patronized by excellent peo-
ple) during the summer. Our vessel will stop at the ' ly.

Eight leagues beyond Murray Bay, on the same (north)
shore, is a very lofty cape, at a place called Les Bales des
Rochers. On its summit, where man has never been,
there has existed from time immemorial a raven's nest.

Riviere du Loup is another favorite, more fashionable
watering-place, 114 miles below Quebec, named from the
Du Loup, which comes into the Saint Lawrence here, after

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

njoy-
peo-

ortli)
s des
:>een,
st.

nable
. tlie
after

indulging itself, a milo back, in a fall of 80 feet. The
Grand Trunk Rail\\ ay stops its northward aspirations at
this town. Sea-bathing, fishing, and society form the at-
tractions of Riviere du Loup in the season.

Cacouna is 6 miles below — 120 miles from Quebec. It
is to Canadians quite as fashionable and favorite a place as
Newport or Long Branch to Americans. It occupies a fine
position upon the river, choice in climate and bathing
facilities, and is much patronized also by visitors from
"the States."

The Grand Falls of the Saint John River are compara-
tively easy of access from Cacouna, by way of Riviere du
Loup, by tri-weekly stage. The falls are midway upon
the journey (450 miles in all) of this the great river of
New-Brunswick to the sea. At a sudden turn the river
contracts to a width of not more than 50 yards, and
plunges down in a solid mass to a basin 40 feet below ;
then follows a succession of falls, making 40 feet more of
descent in about a mile. The water rushes through what
might be termed a winding chasm, whose sides are per-
haps 150 or 200 feet high, perpendicular, and composed of
a bluish slate. Generally speaking, the entire distance
from the first fall to the last presents a sheet of foam,
though around every jutting point is a black and appa-
rently bottomless pool, teeming with fish. There is a com-
fortable stopping-place kept at the falls by Mrs. Russell.

Tadoussac is said to stand at the entrance of the Sague-
nay into the Saint Lawrence, 140 miles from Quebec and
320 from Montreal, but really it is 5 miles up that great
tributary. (See sketch entitled The Saguenay River.)
It is a place of not a little popularity for its sea-bathing
and fishing, but to the traveler it will be most interesting
on account of its antiquity and history. For here, so tra-

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dition, confinnnd l)y nature, liatli it, was oroctcd tho first
of all Btono and mortar buildings on tho continent of
America. Fatlier Marqui^tto, tho famed Jesuit misHionary,
lionoriMl in name on tlio extreme western portions of tho
Great Kiver, built hi^re a stone church some time in tho
sixteenth century, and its ruins may still be seem, a littlo
back of the landing", on tho hill. From the centre of tho
ruin has grown a cluster of pine-trees, whicli must have
existed as much as 200 years.

Tho town of Tadoussac is charmingly situated U]ion a
semi-circular terrace at tho top of a beautiful bay v/ith a
sandy beach, hemmed in by tho frowning cliffs of tho Sa-
gucnay. There is an agent of the Hudson's Bay CJompany
here, and an American consul, whoso flag, waving with
tho Union Jack to bid welcome to tho approaching vessel,
nsually seems one of tho brightest objects upon the land-
scape to the eyes of our tourists. Tho Tadoussac Hotel,
by Mr. Browning, charges $3 per day.

Trois Pistoles is our first station below Tadoussac on tho
route to Halifax, and 140 miles from Quebec, on tho south
shore. Tho fishing hero is something fabulous. Tho
rocky islet 2 miles or so from tho shore is called tho Isle
of Rosade, and was tho scene of a dangerous adventure
of some 40 persons who were rescued and brought back
to it from ice upon which they had ventured and been
carried from safety. A cross marks the memorial which
their gratitude has set up. Wo are now fairly upon the
broad and constantly spreading arm of the sea, far re-
moved from all accustomed river scenery, and fast hasten-
ing, like the waters which bear us, to the open Atlantic.
It is quite an unsettled question whether the gulf begins
at Anticosti Island or at Tadoupsac ; but certainly, which-
ever be our theory, we can not but be impressed with the

TIIK DOMINION OF CANADA.

clmnpfo wliicli n day'R Rail ImH wrouplit upon tli(3 beautiful
riv<'r. Thri frviAo^'wnl olmcrvr r will pCirliapH a^^njo with
UH in findinpf tho opening of tho rivrr into tlio j^ulf at
TroiH PiHtolofl, although tho p(az<)tt(u?rH, etc., ^ivo tlie
mouth of t^io MadchiiiKi (hit. 49' 30) as tho true ])oint I
for w(i mark on tho Houth(!rn coaHt of tho Saint JjEwninco,
at a (liHtanco varying? from 10 to 40 miloH inland, tho ran^o
of mountains variously cailod Notro ])amo, Hhicksliock,
and Salnto Anno Mountains — a sij^n, ordinarily, of an ocoan
coast. Thoso mountains bo^in aljout south of Trois Pis-
toles, and extend all tho way to (Jasp6 Bay.

Tliirty miles b(?yond Trois I*istol(!S are island, X)romon-
tory, and harbor of Lo Bic, (the Eagle's Beak,) an exccd-
h)nt ancient landing-place, still honored. Near it is the
L'Islet au Massacre, remembered as the scene of the bloody
massacre of all but 5 of 200 Micmac Indians l)y their Iro
quois foes.

Kimouski, still on tho south shore, is 180 miles from
Quebec, on the river of the same name. Hotel, Saint Lau-
rent's, excellent. The trout-fishing up tho riv(;r is the
chief inducement to stop. There is a good deal of business
done in town in saw-mills, ship-yards, and tho like, and.
tho government wharf here is very fine.

Metis is 200 miles from Quebec, on the south shore,
boasting the best of the government wharves. It is a
whaling town, after a manner ; tho " humi)-back " species,
yielding three to eight tons of oil, aro hunted in schooners,
and harpooned in the regular orthodox manner.

Some 50 miles further down, we reach tho Point de
Monts, on the northern coast, and Cape Cliatte, a few miles
above Sainto Anne, the most northerly town on the south-
ern coast of the Saint Lawrence. Here are the last ap-
proaches of the two shores ; beyond Point de Monts the

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til

northern slioro turns almost due north, receiving Trinity
River at the bay of the same name (not the famous tele-
graph station) a few miles distant in that direction. The
southern shore rounds away again afteY it has ceased to be
a river coast and at its most northerly point (there are no
more settlements of any importance) the River Madeleine
empties into the gulf amid the wildest scenery. There
are horizontal layers of limestone here, fretted away all
around their base by the action of the tides and waves,
which assume the most fantastic shapes. A legend of the
fishermen dwelling here explains the moaning sound in
the hollow, surf-filling caverns, by the tale from which
the place draws its name. Of a shipwrecked family an
infant only was washed ashore alive, and its wailings, re-
sulting in its relief, are imagined to be yet identical with
the moans of the waves, hence the name Le Braillard de
la Madeleine.

Rounding now the great shoulder of the Province of
Quebec, we come, on the eastern side, to Cape Roziere,
passing, meanwhile, the western half of the desert Anti-
costi Island. Anticosti has 2600 square miles, or one
fourth more than the State of Rhode Island ; its interior is
mountainous and wooded, and, as might bo supposed, the
climate would be very severe. The northern coast is high
and has no harbors ; the southern coast is low and very
dangerous. A light-house warns vessels off the south-
western point. At Cape Roziere, just over Gaspe Bay, on
the most eastern projection of the Province, there is a curi-
ous natural arch, called Perce Rock, under which a fish-
ing-smack under full sail may pass. Formerly there was
also a fantastic boulder closer to shore — for Perce Rock is
at some distance out — called Ship Head, so fashioned as to
resemble strikingly, in calm weather, a large ship under

THE DOMINION OF CANADA..

fiill sail. It has toppled over now ; but there is some odd-
ness in the remaining rocks, called the Old Man, as the
phantom was sometimes disrespectfully termed the Old
Woman.

Cape Desespoir is the most dangerous point on the coast ;
and passing this, we soon come to Chaleurs Bay. Hero
we will take leave of the tour, which no longer fairly
comes under the title of the " Saint Lawrence Voyage,"
and leave the reader to those mercies of the remaining
sea-voyage to Halifax and Saint John which seldom leave
much preference for the perusal of " resort-books."

THE SAOTJEKAY EIVEB.

Next to the great and popular Saint Lawrence voyage —
of which, indeed, it is properly a part — the trip up the
Saguenay River, from Tadoussac to Ha I Ha ! Bay, or the
Lake Saint John, is the very grandest which the traveler
may seek east of the Missouri. Within less than ten
years, public attention has been considerably attracted
thither, and that region, which formerly appeared in all its
fitting wildness to the stray traveler, is now becoming
more and more frequented every year. Not the least of
the attractions of this great journey is its singular cheajv
ness. If one shall go from New- York City, with explicit
reference to it alone — a more costly method, of course,
than to add it to other trips north and east — the expense
will be about as follows ; Fare, all rail, from New- York to
Montreal, (the water journey on the Hudson and Lakes
George and Champlain, if meals and state-rooms be in-
cluded, will not be materially loss,) $12.50 ; the Saguenay
round trip proper, by steamboat, (transfer made at Quebec
going and returning,) $7 in silver, berth in state room and
meals included between Montreal and Quebec; below

tfi-

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

1:1 :

I ]']

Quobec, moals and Htato-room berth 50 cents each, in sil-
ver. A (lay in Quebec (vvliicli tlie regular delay of the
boat affords) "vvill cost from $1 (always Bilver, till you
return to the Stars, Stripes, and grecui backs) to $10 or
more, accordinpf to tho amount of "sight-seeing" done;
and tho tour of Tadoussac, or of Grand Basin, will add a
dollar or two more. Probably, the traveler will bo obliged
to spend Sunday in Burlington or Montreal, adding $6 to
$10 American money ; for, as tho time from New- York to
INIontreal is 17 hours, (it has been done in 14,) leaving
New- York at 7 a.m. Monday, and as tho boat leaves Mon-
treal at 7 r.M. Monday, tho tourist must either spend Sun-
day within roach, or wait for Wednesday's or Friday's
boat, or take tho possible chance of overtaking Monday's
boat at Kivicre du Loup, by Grand Trunk Railway from
Montreal. The whole cost from New-York to the Sague-
nay and return, therefore, need not exceed $G0.

The route to the Great River will vary according to the
tourist's preferences. Most of the methods of approach
■vvill be found described in other parts of this volume.
(See Along the Hudson, Lake George, Lake Cham-
plain, Ri\ i':ii Saint Lawrence, etc.) The briefest is as
follows from New- York : Leaving Thirtieth Street depot
(Hudson River Railway) at 7 a.m., the traveler will reach
Montreal at 7 the next morning. Tho steamboats for the
Saguenay leave Montreal (beginning about July 20th) at
7 P.M. on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Taking
the Monday boat (the best, usually, we understand) for
an example, her trips are as follows : Quebec, Tuesday,
6 A.M. ; Tadoussac, (mouth of Saguenay,) 10 p.m. Ascend-
ing the river in the night, the chief points are passed just
as day is breaking : Ha ! Ha ! Bay, head of steam naviga-
tion,) 6 A.M. Wednesday. Four hours' delay at this point,

f
f

■I; ''I

mat

I ']

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lie., I

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

allowinj^ an ample visit to tlio village. The day is con-
sumed in the grand river journey, passing Capes Trinity
and Eternity (the chief points) just before dinner ; Tadous-
sac again about 5 p.m. Several hours of daylight remain
for the fine sail in the broad Saint Lawrence, and the next
dawn (Thursday) shows the Falls of Montmorenci, and
soon after the city of Quebec. The whole day, until 4 p.m.,
is at the tourist's command, which most will improve by
a tour of the American Cadiz ; carriages for the day, to go
to the Falls — 7 miles — the Plains of Abraham, etc., may
be hired at the wharf (make your bargain at the start) for
$3 in silver. The steamer upon which the journey was
made from Montreal to Quebec is again taken, and, after a
fine night's rest, the traveler finds himself back at the
granite docks of the city of Montreal just in time (usually)
to ride rapidly (hack charge, 50 cents) to the morning
trains going southward from Bonaventure Station. Wo
take occasion here again to caution strangers in Montreal,
or anywhere else upon the shores or waters of the River
Saint Lawrence, to use the greatest moderation in drink-
ing water ; for the river water, universally used hereabout,
though delightful to the taste, is almost invariably provo-
cative of violent diarrhea to those unaccustomed to it.

In regard to the steamers making the Saguenay excur-
sion, there is usually more or less competition against the
Royal Mail or Richelieu Line, which is the " regular " one ;
ana the traveler will probably find a pleasant financial
economy in avoiding the over-crowded Richelieu boats for
their less popular but equally good — often superior —
rivals.

The journey up the Saguenay has a wide fame for its
grandeur ; but the tourist must not form too peculiar an
estimate of its character. The common supposition among

i
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^'n

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THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

those who know of it only through inaccurate sketches or
guide-books, that it is a narrow, almost bottomless chasm,
with beetling, rocky banks, which shut out the light of
day, is entirely mistaken, and should be abandoned before
one visits the river. A most suitable preparation for the
Saguenay trip, which we earnestly recommend to the
tourist from New- York, is a visit to the Ait Sable Chasm,
near Lake Champlain, (see article on The Adirondacks,
near the end,) lying almost directly on the route from
New- York to Montreal. By leaving the all-rail route at
Burlington, and crossing to Port Kent and Keeseville, the
tourist will be able to spend his Sundays after seeing the
chasm, at the latter village, and start Monday morning in
time to catch the evening boat to t!:-^ Saguenay. Hotel at
Keeseville, Au Sable House ; excellent rooms, and table,
and charges much lower than at Montreal or even Bur-
lington.

The tourist from Boston may catch the Monday b6at
from Montreal by taking the Grand Trunk Railway,
through Portland, to Quebec or Riviere du Loup — a te-
dious journey. The route ma Concord and Wo11f5 River
Junction is far preferable; but at the present v. . I'ag we
can not be sure that the 7.30 A.M. train from Borv:on will
reach Montreal in time for the Saguenay boat. Prooably
local trains between Essex Junction and Montreal will be
adapted to this want.

Close upon the boundary-line between the Dominion of
Canada and the Hudson's Bay Territory rise eleven consi-
derable rivers, which flow from that uninhabited wilder-
ness into the Lake Saint John, 150 miles above the Saint
Lawrence, and nearly due north of Quebec. This lake is
80 miles long and, in its widest part, as many broad ; its
climate is preferable to that of the sea-coast ; the waters

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

are uncommonly clear, and abound with the choicest fish ;
and the fall of the Oueat Chouan, (signifying in Indian,
" Do you see a fall there ?") 336 feet high, is so conspicuous
as to be seen 40 or 50 miles distant. The Saguenay River
is the sole outlet of this lake, flowing for the first half of
its course in a narrow (half a mile) stream, over falls and
rapids, through an unbroken wilderness ; most of the lat-
ter half comprises the famous scenery which the tourist
seeks. There are but four settlements upon the whole
length of the river : Chicoutimi, 68 miles from the mouth
at the Saint Lawrence ; Ha ! Ila ! Bay, or Grand Basin,
at the head of navigation, 60 miles ; Saint John's Bay, 33
miles ; and Tadoussac, 5 miles from the Saint Lawrence.
The steamboats ascend the river to Ha ! Ha ! Bay in the
night ; and so the tourist first beholds the great river at
the northern extremity of its wilder portion. Below Ha !
Ha! Bay (so named becavise of the delightful contrast
which the first French voyagers there beheld after the
awful solitude of the lower river) the stream deserves its
Indian name, Chicoutimi — " deep water ;" for henceforth it
flows between rocky banks, often perpendicular, from 500
to 1500 feet high, with a channel 2 miles wide, and so deep
that the largest ships might sail from the mouth to Grand
Basin. The great depth of the water — varying from 100
to 1500 feet — as well as, perhaps, some mineral deposit
within it, renders it of an inky blackness, greatly adding
to the grandeur of ^h.Q whole scene. The rock region bo-
gins a few miles below Ha ! Ha ! Bay, with the Tableau, a
lofty plateau of dark-colored granite 600 feet high and 300
wide, smooth as though cut by the hand of art, and ter-
minating suddenly with a single perpendicular rock, 900
feet high. Further on, Statue Point, a great boulder, 800
feet high, is noticeable for a cave half-way up its face, ut-

' 1-1 :

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

terly inaccessible from above or below, having an orifice
I)robably 40 feet in diameter. Again, upon one of tlie few
ravines which break the desolate solitude of the rocks, a
waterfall appears high up among the cliffs, some miles
back from the river, presenting, at a distance, the beauti-
ful illusion of a castle, such as distinguish the liliine.
But the culminating scene of all is at Capes Trinity and
Eternity. Thirty-nine miles from the Saint Lawrence, a
mountain stream, bursting its way through the granite
wall to join the Saguenay, has formed a bay, whose two
banks, north and south, ar^ the most tremendous promon-
tories on all the river. Approaching from the north. Cape
Trinity appears first — a single mountain of granite and
syenite, 1500 feet high, but so shapen as to seem a giant
staircase, the great altitude being equally divided by three
stepb or shoulders, each bearing a profile upon its edge,
the central one of which has been pronounced as distinct
as that at the White Mountains. With a turn in the river
the scene changes, and one may now behold three giant
columns, separate at the lofty summit, but joined at the
base, completing this mighty work so fitly called Cape
Trinity. Cape Eternity is a vast, rounded mountain,
1800 feet high, bleak and bare as its neighbor across the
bay, but even mo'^a tremendous in its majesty. Here, in-
deed, the rock hangs so threatening overhead that one
shudders and shrinks instinctively, while the actually
measured depth of the water is one mile and a quarter ;
and we leave the place fully conscious that the Saguenay
has no rival along the thoroughfares of fashionable travel.
This conviction must be fixed by the remaining journey,
lying, as it does, through an almost unbroken, unchang-
ing, dismal wilderness of granite, without beaches, coves,
or any creeks but mountain torrents, and barren of birds.

Jl)

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

ducks, or squirrels, with nothing b^t shoreless, lifeless,
perpendicular banks of rock.

The grandeur of this Saguenay excursion is, of course,
not in its beauty or life, but in its eternal solemnity ; and
therefore, nothing but a strong love of contrast can par-
don our recurring to the villages upon the river. The
tourist, however, sees Ha ! Ha ! Bay before he realizes the
scenes through which he has already passed. He will find
upon the shore a throng of semi-savage beings, Canadian
Indians mostly, who are anxious to put a caleche (called
calash) at his service for a silver half-dollar. One hardly
knows, at first, which object to wonder at most, the driver
or his vehicle ; but one soon finds the two most intimately
related. In dry weather, the clay road around Grand Ba-
sin is full of ruts that can only be called awful ; and the
eager fellows put their little ponies to such a high rate of
speed (deeming this course the shortest way to an Ameri-
can's heart) that the unhappy passenger almost longs ioT
the conveyance common to victims of Judge Lynch in the
South. The caleche, universally used in this portion of the
country, is merely a buggy, with a narrow board in front
of the proper seat for the driver ; but the concern adopted
by the savages at the basin omits the springs ! and it
is only necessary to add, to show the full horror of " the
situation," that the driver understands no tongue but the
French Canadian patois, and invariably translates any
ejaculations on the part of his passenger to mean "Go
faster I" The victim will then bo thankful to know that
the patois term for " stop " or *' delay " is arret, (pronounced
as if it were English.)

There is nothing to see at the village of Grand Basin,
2 miles up the bay, more than the general primitiveness
of civilization — the little thatched cottages, where lamps

m \

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

of tlie vorital)l(3 Pompeii pattern are used, tlie two-story
Btoves, the bircli-Lai'k canoe, in wliich every one sliould
have a row, the Hudson's Bay agent, and the hotel where
fashionables spwid part of the summer. If possible, the
tourist should stop at Ha ! Ha ! Bay for some time, and
make the trip to the upper river with some native by
birch-bark canoe, a course which very few take, but with-
out which no man can truly say he has "done'* the Sa-
guenay.

Ghicoutimi is interesting chiefly for its ancient church,
in which the curious will find a bell on which there is an
inscription which no one has deciphered. Saint Jo7in's Bay
is merely a lumbering station, notable, however, as the
point at which the deepest soundings of the river have
been found. The average depth of the channel is esti-
mated at 145 fathoms (870 feet.) At Saint John's Bay the
depth is one and one hMf miles !

Tadoussac is described in the article on the River
Saint Lawrence, as is also the sail on that river between
Tadoussac and Montreal. It remains only to explain to
the Saguenay tourist that the commotion which he will
observe where the waters of the Saint Lawrence and the
Saguenay meet is caused by a ridge across the mouth of
the latter. The bed of the Saguenay, within this ridge,
is 840 feet below surface, while the Saint Lawrence bot-
tom, outside, is but 340 feet — a very remarkable fact.

THE OTTAWA KIVER.

The Ottawa (or Grand) River is the largest stream
wholly within the Dominion, being the chief river tribu-
tary of the Saint Lawrence. Visitors from New- York
reach it by Hudson River, Saratoga, Lakes Horicon and
Champlain, or Saratoga and Whitehall, and Rutland and

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

Burlington Railway to Rouse's Point, whence by rail to
Montreal. From Boston one may go by the Grand Trunk
Railway direct from Portland, or by the White Mountain
route, (see White Mountains,) or by the Connecticut
Valley, (sec Mansfield and Mempiiremagog.) Most
travelers, however, will reach Montreal and the Ottawa
from Ogdensburg and Niagara, and in any case they
should time their journey so as to be able to leave Mont-
real for the Ottawa at 7 a.m. by the La Chine Railway.
Going toward New- York, on their return, we commend
that travelers take the 4 r.M. train from Bonaventure Sta-
tion, Montreal, and remain over night at Plattsburg.
This w'll enable them to have daylight for Lake Cham-
plain, and the fading hours, the very choicest for that
scene, for Horicon. (See sketch of Lake George.)

The city of Montreal will be found described in its order
in the article on Lake -Ontario and the St. Lawrence.
The best hotels are Saint Lawrence Hall and Ottawa
HotqJ, $3 in silver, $4.50 in American currency, per day ;
they are nearly a mile from the railway station.

It is a singular fact, and rather significant of the rapid
growth of American cities, (even when in the Canada
section,) that the great river at whose mouth stands the
chief commercial city of Her British Majesty's " Dominion"
on this continent, is but a half-known, mysterious passage
to a savage wilderness. Excepting among those employes
of the Hudson Bay Company who must have some know-
ledge about it, no one can certainly tell the length or the
source of the Ottawa River. In 1846, lumberers had pene-
trated as far north as Lake Temiscaming, about 400 miles
from the mouth. Formerly, also, some 40 to 50 canoes
used to ascend the river annually with articles of traffic,
as far (about 300 miles) as the point opposite to Lake Ni-

■'I

JIR^i

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

pissingf, the chief expansion of that series of lakes called
the French River. Here they would go by portages across
the narrow strip of country from the Ottawa to the lake,
and descend to Lake Huron, where they traded with the
coureurs de Bois, who brought furs from the Indian hunt-
ing-grounds above. And this is ull that is certainly
known of that mighty river, whose width and force and
general appearance below would imply a total length of
700 to 800 miles, if not more. An opinion prevails in the
Dominion that the Ottawa River and the Georgian Bay
will some time be united by canalling that narrow strip
already mentioned, and improving the navigation of both
the Ottawa and French Rivers. A governmental survey
to this end has been set on foot.

The entrance of the two great branches of the Ottawa
into the Saint Lawrence may be found fully described in
the article on that tour. One enters at the head of Lake
Saint Louis, and the other just below Montreal. The re-
fusal of the waters of the two rivers to mingle, at first, is
quite noticeable ; the dark, iron-like color of the Ottawa
contrasting strongly with the fading emerald that has
come down from Niagara.

The steamboat Prince of Wales leaves La Chine on the
arrival of our train from Montreal, and to that we shall trust
ourselves, although Ottawa navigation is of such an irre-
gular nature that we shall change vessels frequently before
we reach our journey's end. We are about starting on a
journey which possesses certain merits and charms which
none in " the States" can boast, and some which surpass
even the sensations felt on either the Saint Lawrence or
the Saguenay. There is no tour in the Dominion which
aflfords within itself alone so complete an idea of the pecu-
liar natural attractions of this wild, half-known, glorious

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

country for tourists, as that up tlio Ottawa. Tlio Upper
Ottawa may also be readied by railway direct, from Pres-
cott on tlie Saint Lawrence to Ottawa City.

At the entrance of the Ottawa into the Saint Lawrence,
lies the picturesque village of Sainte Anne, 21 miles from
Montreal. Here is the old church dear to the voyageurs
of the Great Iliver and its tributaries, as the last of those
consecrated to their tutelar Saint ; and here, too, we are
to remember that Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-
sonQt a household word to many who may never behold
" Utawas tide." His journey from Kingston to Montreal
occupied five days — hardly conducive, one would imagine,
to the spirit of his gentle words. But, if we do hurry by
more rapidly, we do not gain that familiarity with the
waters which we want to carry away with us.

There is a massive bridge — to recall ourselves from the
unpractical and poetic — crossing the river here, supported
on 16 stone piers, for the central section of the Grand
Trunk Railway. Here also are locks for the vessels which
must avoid the shallow rapids ; and to this vicinity, too,
the yacht clubs of the Canadian metropolitans delight to
come.

Two miles below Sainte Anne, at the western extremity
of the Island of Montreal, are ruins of three old towers
built in the long-past days of war. The river now ex-
pands, and takes the name of Lake of the Two Mountains,
a title beautiful and unfamiliar enough to justify poor Tho-
reau's carping at the stolidity which renders the interna-
tional line most perceptible by our silly names compared
with Canadian allusions and epithets. The hilly charac-
ter of the scenery here, clothed to the water's edge with
the richest verdure, presents more the appearance of an
inland lake than of the banks of a river. The higher of

III

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

i . :

II:

tlio " Two Mountains" is called Calvary, and is held sacred
by the Canadians and the remnant of Indian tribes, (Iro-
quois, Algonquins, and Nipissings,) livincr at its base.
Near the lake, on the north-east, are three towns cele-
brated (i)articularly Saint Eustache) in the rebellion of
1837, which we meet so often in our Canadian travels.
Saint Eustache was taken and burned by the loyalists.
Saint Benoit and Saint Scholastique profited by the ex-
ample, and surrendered. The insurrection terminated
here and thus for Lower Canada.

Point Fortune, 27 miles from Sainte Anne, is the diverg-
ing point of demarkation between the Provinces of Ontario
and Quebec, the Ottawa River being from here upward
the natural boundary. Up the North River, here, is Saint
Andrew's village, 2 miles, and La Chute, 9 miles.

At Carillon (" Chime of Bells," a name which seems to
have been brought from Lake Champlain, it being the old
name of Fort Ticonderoga) a canal ends which begins at
Grenville, 12 miles distant. This is necessitated by the
rapids, the Carillon, the Chute a Blondeau, and the Long
Sault of the Ottawa. At this point the first change oc-
curs, tourists being obliged to leave the boat for a train
which conveys them through a pretty forest-country to
Grenville. Opposite this village, at the head of the Long
Sault Rapids, is Hawkesburg, the first of the great lumber
establishments to which the river owes its development.
These mills are chiefly supplied from the rivers Gatineau
and Rouge. The lumberers are a race of men peculiar to
the Canadas, Maine, and New-Brunswick. Their work
begins in the depth of winter, in the backwoods, where
they fell the huge red and white pines. Then these logs
are drawn out of the snow by oxen and piled on or near
the sides of the frozen rivers, till spring gives them way ;

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

then what a mass of lumber fills all the streams in May !
Here commeuccs the most dangerous work ; the logs,
loosely joined together in huge, uncouth rafts, are set
adrift, and the lumberer guides them, as ho best may,
with his uncouth oars and poles, down the rapids and cur-
rents, swollen and fierce with the loosened snows. As
long as the logs hold together, all is well ; but, hurried
and tumbled over rapids, as they are, they often break up,
and then, rolling in fierce confusion the one over the other,
and smashing down from rock to rock, till they reach
some clear opening in the river, they keep the lives of
their owners in continual imminent danger. When thus
broken up, they often get lodged and wedged together on
the brow of some rapid, stopping miles of their following
companions. Then they must be liberated — a preemi-
nently dangerous task ; for when once the logs which bar
the passage are half cut through, the might of the pres-
sure behind breaks them like straws, and some ten thou-
sand trunks of trees come plunging down with a rush and
confusion that but too often renders all the coolness and
activity of those who are trying to escape the avalanche
of no avail.

Pursuing our journey up the river from Grenville by
steamboat again, we find ourselves in a densely- wooded
country, in many places as primitive as when the Jesuit
missionaries first sailed through it. The current of the
river is gentle, and the scenery diversified by numerous
islands, the foliage of whose trees seems almost to touch
the water, and by glimpses of infant settlements on the
skirts of the forest and the margin of the stream.

L'Original is a small town, 6 miles above Grenville, on
the Ontario side ; 9 miles distant are the Caledonia or
Plantagenet Springs. (A separate sketch is devoted to

III flij

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THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

them.) Thurso is a largo luinher villapfo further up, and
Buckingham, 5 miles up the Riviere du Lievre, boasts two
interesting falls near by. The population is about 2000 ;
hotel, McKnight's. The Lower Fall is about 70 feet high,
with a beautiful, closely hemmed-in basin of some extent.
The Upper Fall is 25 miles distant from the village, ap-
proachable, if you choose to endure a bad road, by vehicle,
or better, by canoe. It is 40 feet high, and of a conside-
rable inclination, like Montniorenci. Still further on,
White Fish Lake is a great resort for fishermen, and high
carnival is held there in the fall season. A remarkable
cave called the Church, strewn with fine white sand, af-
fords a fine (and romantic) camping-place. There is great
mineral wealth (not gold, miser!) abon' ere also.

The largest and most important tr ary of the Otta-
wa, the River Gatineau, empties into it 1 mile below
the national capital. It is 350 miles long, and has much
attractive scenery. The Fanner's Rapids and Falls are 7
miles up, and for the next 3^ miles are four or five rapids
and cascades ; then the Lake Saint Mary's, Pemachunga,
and Thirty-one-miles-long Lake, are fine fishing places in
the wilderness, 40 miles up.

Ottawa City is now a very important city on this conti-
nent, being the capital of the United Provinces, (if they are
united ; the disaffection in the Eastern Provinces still fur-
nishes newspaper scandal,) namely, Ontario, (formerly Up-
per Canada, or Canada West,) Quebec, (formerly Lower Ca-
nada,) New-Brunswick, Prince Edward's Island, and Nova
Scotia. The consolidation of these Provinces, under the
national name of " Dominion of Canada," was concluded
last year, and Lord Monck inaugurated as Governor-Gene-
ral on the first " Dominion Day," July 1st, 1867.

The city of Ottawa was laid out by the royal engineers

t i

TICE DOMINION" OF CANADA.

era.

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under Colonel By's command, in 1830, and named for him
Bytown. It is 120 miles from Montreal and 54 from Pres-
cott. There are three sections of the city : Lo\v(»r Town,
(east,) Upper Town, (north-wcHt,) and Central Town,
(west ;) but all on the south-west side of the Ottawa, and
consequently in the Province of Ontario. On 15arrack
Hill, in many respects a counterpart of the ci':adel of Que-
bec, are situated the Parliamcmt and departn\ental build-
ings in full view of the Chaudiere. These arc all in the
Italian-Gothic style, and are built of a kind of stone found
in the vicinity. There is connected with the legislative
halls a library capable of containing 300,000 volumes.
Among the other principal buildings are the IJloman
Catholic church, one of the handsomest in the Dominion ;
the Queen's Printing-House, etc. The city is the empori-
um of the Canadian staple, lumber. It is connected with
Lake Ontario by the Rideau Canal from Kingston, 95
miles.

The Chaudiere (" Caldron ") Falls, the second in import-
ance exclusively in the Dominion, are at the western extre-
mity of the city. They are 40 feet high, 200 and more wide,
and the sounding-line has not found bottom at 300 feet.
Immediately below the Falls, a fine suspension-bridge
connects the two Provinces and affords a fine view of the
chasm. At the north-east end of the city are two other
falls, over which the waters of the Rideau River pour into
the Ottawa, and although inferior to the Chaudiere in
sublimity and grandeur, they are not without many at-
tractions. Toward Chelsea, in the north-west, is a range
of hills which the visitor will notice, one especially, con
spicuous for its superior altitude and naked summit. This
is Bald Mountain,

The great timber-slides afford the chief sensation to

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

daring tourists at Ottawa City. When a quantity of lum-
Ler is brought down to the Falls, a special contrivance,
called a " slide" or " short," is necessary to get it past them.
A part of the river is dammed off and turned into a broad,
wide channel of timber. Down this most rapid of all
rapids in America the waters of the river rush at terrific
speed. The head of the slide is placed some 300 yards
above the Falls, and terminates after a run of three quarters
of a mile, in the still waters of the river below. As, how-
ever, a raft on such a steep incline, and hurried along by
such a mass of water, would attain a speed whicl l would
destroy itself and all upon it, the fall of the shoot is
broken afc intervals by straight runs, along which it glides
at comparatively reduced speed until the force of the next
pitch again accelerates it. Some of these runs terminate
with a perpendicular drop of some 4 or 5 feet, over which
the raft goes headlong, and wallows in the boiling water
beneath, till the current again gets the mastery. More
than 20,000,000 cubic feet of timber come down these
shoots each year. The rafts are generally made of from
15 to 20 trees, with two transverse ones to secure them at
each end, and a kind of raised bridge for the lumberers to
stand upon, who without sitch aid would be washed off it.
To go down the Rapids of the Saint Lawrence is compara-
tively nothing ; but to go down the rapids of a timber
shoot, to keep pace with the flying Avaters, and to see
them hissing and rushiitg up over the raft beneath your
feet — this is the most exhilarating adventure in all the re-
pertoire of American travel. We recommend all travelers,
desirous of novelty, by all means to make one of these
trips. It may be easily done by making api)lication to any
of the large lumbering establishments, with a small finan-
ial arrangement with the taoyageurs your companions.

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

Above Ottawa, the traveler may proceed by carriage or
by stage, 9 miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thejace by
steamer to the Chats Falls ; thence by railway 2 miles;
then again by steamer 20 miles, to the Portage du Fort ;
now, wagons for a while, and then again a steamer to
Pembroke, 70 miles from Ottawa, and yet another thence
40 miles, to Deux Joachims. Beyond this, the canoe will
be the tourist's only resource. Before reaching Aylmer,
we have the Little Chaudiere Fall, 13 feet, tlu; Ronioux
Rapid, 2 miles above, and the De Cheine Rapides <)[)posite
the village of Britannia, 4^ miles further. Aylmer itself
is on the Lac de Cheine, an expansion of the river, 26
miles long, navigable for the largest vessels. The Chats
Portage (or Chats Falls) are a series of cascades about 20
feet high, 3 miles long, surrounded by scenery much like
that at the Thousand Isles. Just above these rapids is the
magnificent Lac des Chats, on the river, 20 miles long and
from 1 to 3 wide. If the tourist be interested in royalty,
he may see an oak at Arnprior here, (the northern termi-
nus of the Prescott and Ottawa Railway, where the
River Madawaska comes down,) which the Prince of Wales
planted on his Ottawa trip in 1859. The scenery about
Portage du Fort Rapids, beyond, is charming in every
respect; one feature not hitherto met with, is the white
marble banks of the Ottawa, extending for some distance.
Deux Joachims, 110 miles above Ottawa City, is at the ex-
treme limit of steamboat navigation at pnisent. It is,
however, but 50 miles from the mouth of the Lake Mata-
wan, the connecting stream between the Ottawa River and
Lake Nipissing, through which the proposed Ottawa and
Lake Huron navigation is expected to run. If that scheme
shall ever come to completion, the tourist may include
Superior City, Ottawa City, and Quebec, on one tour.

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

The route between Pembroke and Deux Joacliims, 40
miles, passes througli the Upper and Lower Allumette
Lakes, with all their soft and romantic beauties, and
through the stern and gloomy grandeur of the Deep
River, whose mountains, 600 feet in height, rise from the
water's edge, while their bases are as far beneath its
surface. Beyond Deux Joachims is the utter wilderness,
which we shall not seek to penetrate. There are lakes,
as ever, fishing, and, doubtless, some ver}'' unpleasant
hunting, in this neglected country ; but until *' the hardy
sons of the forest" have been succeeded by the ladies and
gentlemen of civilized climates and regions, we must leave
unsolved the ]3roblem of the source of the Ottawa.

QUEBEC.

" Quebec is the most notable and curious city in Ameri-
ca," writes a recent London ct^rrespondent ; and if history
does not entirely justify the first part of the assertion, a
visit most abundantly pr-oves the latter. Curious it cer-
tainly is, and to strangers who find their way into her
Majesty's new Dominion during the summer months,
this is doubtless its chief attraotion. " Quaint," " queer,"
yet never beautiful, a day suffices to do Quebec ; and curi-
osity and the tourist, both satisfied, generally depart to-
gether.

The first view of the city is striking. That tremendous
precipice, the solid wall, and its surmounting line of grim
fifty-six pounders, have ever been remarkable, and the odd
and stolid buildings of a thousand different shapes thickly
scattered round the base, and scaling and overgrowing the
high, rocky promontory, present from the river a scene of
novelty bordering on the grotesque. It reaches under,
up the side, and all over the hill, like moss on a decaying

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

•63

stump ; and when the sun shines, the whole flashes and
glitters like some fabled city not paved, but roofed with
silver and gold. The fact is, in the early days, tin or met-
al being cheaper or more convenient than slate, nearly all
the roofs were covered with it, and for some reason it does
not seem to tarnish or corrode in that climate.

The Streets. — On entering the city itself, the disap-
pointment of the traveler commences. The first thing on
landing is, of course, to scale the heights, as the lower town
is now given up to heavy business and commercial ware-
houses. It is like the ascent of Mount Washington — a
tortuous, twisted path, yet through the very he? rt of the
city nevertheless. In many places the stones of the pre-
cipice have been removed to make way for houses ; queer
old places they are — ill built, and forming steep, narrow,
and badly paved streets. A difficult causeway winds under
a monstrous arch into the upper portion of the city.
Once inside the walls, the queerness increases. Boston has
been described to be as crooked as ten acres of rams' horns ;
but if DooBticks should dip his pen into tbe streets of
Quebec, the crookedest simile would prove a failure.
There is no other city on this continent like it. Lanes,
alleys, gulfs, and ditches, isosceles triangles, and parallello-
pipedons, a lunatic dream of Utopia, is a rational plan in
comparison. Certainly, poor old Jacques Cartier had no
vision of Quebec before his eyes when his prow turned up
the Saint Lawrence, or he would have set sail for Terra
del Fuego sooner than enter.

Places of Interest. — Little slips of paper containing
a formidable list of these are scattered about the hotels.
Falls, monuments, buildings, churches, and drives, all of
undoubted interest — to the citizens themselves ; but rather
more, by seven eighths, than the general traveler will care

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THE DOMIlSriON OP CANADA.

to visit. The Falls of Montmorenci, a drive of 9 miles, tlie
Citadel and Wolfe's Monument, are the leading attractions.
It is not difficult to find these — coach and hack-drivers,
visible in overpowering numbers, await an opportunity to
pounce upon the unwary who may step out of doors, and
forty whips are leveled at his breast if he shows the slight-
est indication of timidity. The four hundred coaches
about the city, answering in efiect to the cabs of Paris, are
very convenient for the sight-seer of moderate means, snug
and comfortable, and the regular charge is only fifty cents
in gold per hour ; the drivers understand the theory of
making hay by sunshine, however, and very readily ask a
dollar and upward of strangers, particularly if they ap-
pear to hail from the United States.

Wolfe's Monument is just back of the town, upon tho
illustrious Plains of Abraham. We go out from the walls,
pass the toll-gate, turn off the road a short distance past
one or two wretched huts, and in a rolling meadow just
before us stands the clearly chiseled column —

here died

Wolfe,
victorious !

The Citadel is well worthy a visit. Situated upon the
highest point of the promontory, and holding in range the
entire town and a wide sweep of the river both above and
below, it is alike commanding and unapproachable. It is
surrounded on every side by difficult glissades, and be-
tween its double walls the fearful ditch, everv foot of which
is exposed to a raking fire from within — is large enough
and terrible enough to be the veritable last ditch indeed —
and the impregnable chain-gates, bristling port-holes, un-
der-ground passages, connecting towers, and the immense

The dominion of canada.

wall stretching eacli way like two gigantic arms clasping
the city in its embrace, are enough fairly to confound a deni-
zen of Brother Jonathan's peaceful corporations ; and one
can very readily believe the gentlemanly sergeant who in-
forms us that Quebec can only be taken by starvation — and
that the fortress holds provision sufficient for seven years.

The Falls of Montmorenci are ever the same combina-
tion of majesty and beauty — " admission twenty-five cents,"
as a small board tells us at the entrance to a field near by,
from which the only good view can be obtained. The old
piers still stand above, and the guide points out the very
place where stood the boy, the woman, and the cart, when
the frail bridge gave way and plunged them into the
whirling abyss.

The French Cathedral near the market is quite a promi-
nent object — a high and mighty pile — whose lofty galle-
ries are like attics, affording from the front a bird's-eye
view of the interior, and back under the rafters both room
and distance from the voices of the worshipers for medi-
tation and quiet.

About two thirds of the residents of Quebec are descen-
dants of the old French occupanlis, and the element is plain-
ly observable in the churches, newspapers, houses, and in
the streets ; the latter are all named in French as well as
in English, and N*appliquez point d'affiches! adorns the
fence just above the sententious " Stick no bills I" Al-
though so extensive, the French portion is not the ruling
element, being composed mostly of the lower class, and in
fact, who know much less of France beyond the language
than the Yankee school-boy. They have little of the viva-
city and volubility of their cousins over the water, and
seem to have lost that suaviter in modo, without which it
is hardly possible to conceive a genuine Frenchman. The

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

i% '•

Terrace — a wide platform overlooking the river — is a fa-
vorite promenade for tliera on Sunday afternoons.

Not far from the Terrace, and near the centre, an odd
sort of cottage is pointed out as the oldest building in the
city — the one where Montcalm held his first councils of
war. It is now a "barbershop, and you may shave for a
fip and pick up any amount of historical on dits gratis.
Just opposite stands the Saint Louis Hotel, large and flat,
very like the National in Washington, the only one of note,
and this only open during the warm season. The guests
of the Saint Louis are perhaps the most transient of any in
the country. Curiosity brings large numbers to Quebec
during the summer months, and scores of trunks are
brought up in the morning from the Montreal boat, and
carefully conveyed to the different rooms, as though the
owner intended taking permanent quarters ; but somehow
they all manage to come down in time for the evening
train, and the next day tells the same story. The amount
of travel in Canada from the States is increasing very
rapidly.

The daily steamboats between Quebec and Montreal are
really fine, and compare favorably with some of our North
River crafts ; they are manned mostly by Frenchmen who
never saw France, and have French cooks, but not French
cooking. The time between the two cities is about twelve
hours.

THE TOUR IN THE EASTERN PROVINCES.

Having given so great a space to the popular and invit-
ing tour of the Saint Lawrence, it would be unjust to the
tourist should we leave unmentioned the great claims of
these more eastern Provinces — Nova Scotia, New-Bruns-
wick, and Prince Edward's Island — which are now legally

II iiipi itmrnt

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

termed " The Dominion of Canada," under the governor-
generalship of Lord Monck, at Ottawa, the federal capital.

The attentive observer of the advance of American civil-
ization is well aware that, with the completion of railways
and telegraph lines the opening of new water communica-
tions has made easy of access a new field for the summer
travel — a field full of interest, romance, and pleasure — in
the land of the blue noses, Acadia, mentioned by Longfel-
low, is his poem Evangeline, a tale of Acadia, (Nova Sco-
tia.)

Wolfville, the Grand Pre Basin of Mines, the head waters
of the Bay of Fundy, where the tide rises more than 50
feet, is a place to which a visit the coming season will pay
the tourist, will invigorate and recuperate the invalid.

The scenery, also, on the river Saint John is equal to
any in the world. There is the route from Moncton, on
the European and North-American Railway, across the
Westchester Mountain via Dorchester, Amherst, West-
chester, the Acadia Iron- Works, through Londonderry to
Truro, Nova Scotia, en route by rail to Halifax. On this
route the view to be seen at Sackville and Amherst, N. S.,
of the reclaimed lands from the Bay of Fundy waters, and
the view from Westchester Mountain, (at Purdy's,) of the
Gulf of Saint Lawrence and Prince Edward's Island, em-
bracing a scope of 60 miles of landscape, with the Cascade
Waterfall on the mountain at the Acadia Iron- Works, are
worth a trip of thousands of miles. The following is a list
of the routes for this tour the coming summer :

To reach Nova Scotia, (where treasure upon treasure lies
-hidden, whose gold-fields will soon be developed and prove
as rich as California,) there is the Grand Trunk Railway
to Quebec, from Portland, Maine. From Quebec the Gulf
Line will run A No. 1 first-class ocean-going steamships

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

ma the waters of the River and Gulf of Saint Lawrence to
Shediac, Charlottetown, and Pictou. At Shediac connect
(for the city of Saint John, N. B.) with the European and
North- American Railway. Moncton is on this road 19
miles from Shediac. At Moncton, the Messrs. King are
prepared to entertain you in style, and by them you will
be transferred on over the finest road in this country via
the Westchester Mountain route. At Pictou, connection
is made with the Nova Scotia Railway, 113 miles across
Nova Scotia, to Halifax. From Halifax by railway to
Windsor, N. S., 45 miles. At Windsor there is a first-
class hotel, whose proprietor will transport you in splendid
coaches to Wolfville, Grand Pre, 12 miles.

From Boston or Portland, Saint John, the Saint John
River, and the Bay of Fundy are to be reached by the
splendid steamers of the International Line, three times a
week, ma Eastport, Maine, where the tourist can make
connection with a steamer up the Saint Croix River for
Saint Andrew, N. B., at which place take railv/ay for Rich-
mond and Houlton, connecting with the steamers on the
upper Saint John. Descending the river, stop off at Fredc-
rickton, and then proceed to Saint John. This route avoids
the doubling up and down the river.

At Saint John, New-Brunswick, (hotel, the Stubbs
House,) you have the European and North- American Rail-
way, (the best laid road in this country,) for Moncton and
Shediac as before stated ; or there is the Bay of Fundy route
per A No. 1 steamer Empress (making connection with
the steamers from Portland) for Windsor, and, as we have
started for the Grand Pre, for Wolfville and Basin Mines ;
or for Halifax, with its splendid walks and drives, its fresh
water, and its North Arm, with its beautiful little Dart-
mouth on the opposite shore ; with the finest harbor in the

.. ,i|i<nuiiMi^iwiiii^p

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

world, one capable of holding all the fleets of the combin-
ed navies of the world, Bedford Basin, perfectly land-
locked — a drive 13 miles around, which will amply re-
pay the tourist. Halifax is full of interest, a cheap place
to live in, and we can conscientiously recommend to the
tourist the Halifax Hotel, now opened in style and rei^lete
with comfort.

We think this sketch of a new summer route describes
one that our readers will be delighted with. Just think
of it after visiting the White Mountains and Quebec, then
for a sail down the Saint Lawrence, stopping off at Char-
lottetown. Prince Edward's Island, thence across, some four
hours, to Shediac, and thence to Moncton, where, if you de-
sire it, the hotel proprietor, Mr. King, will send you across
the Cobequid Mounteins, as before stated, to rusticate a
few days with mine hosts of the Weldon Hotel, Dorchester,
and the Cumberland House at Amherst.

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA.

Nova Scotia, a country of 13,000,000 acres, and contain-
ing a population of 370,000 persons, looks upon Halifax —
the great capital, metropolis, head and seat of government,
and residence of His Excellency, Lieutenant-General Sir
William Fenwick Williams, of Kars, Baronet, Knight
Commander of the Most Honorable Order of the Bath,Grand
Officer Legion d'Honneur, First Class of the Turkish Or-
der of Mediji, Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-
Chief in and over the Province of Nova Scotia and its de-
pendencies — as a place of immense importance. There are
facts to support this belief. It has the best harbor in
America, a tremendous old crowning citadel garrisoned
with 4000 of Her Majesty's red-coats, and big guns enough
to blow the whole town and shipping up ; and it has been

i-HB DOMmrON OP CAKADA.

frequently remarked that, with the addition of a few
hundred live Yankees, it would soon have a first-class hotel,
half a dozen railway depots, twenty cotton factories, and an
unlimited competition in sewing-machines and piano-fortes.

The following bird's eye view by a live Yankee gives a
capital idea of Halifax :

" Africa, Aug. 5th, 18 — ; 4 to 8 r.M. at Halifax ; fine har-
bor ; rugged coast ; location high ; climate cold ; fogs.
Streets narrow. Muddy. Buildings — wood, low, yellow.
Parks, 6 ; hotels, 21 ; newspapers, 10 ; clubs, 3 ; currency,
mixed $ £ ; people slow ; society ditto ; women tall. Liv-
ing — fish, bacon. The Lakes — Downs — The Citadel."

The leaf was countersigned with the word dead, a very
forcible expression for quiet and repose, said to be appro-
priate in the connection, though confederation is expected
to work miracles.

The Landing — Custom-House. — The arrival of a Cu-
nard steamer is an event in the city, and looked forward to
with great interest. She brings passengers, merchandise,
express, mails, and two weeks of news, and dailies from
" the States." We may expect quite a gathering of impa-
tient citizens at the landing, dozens of misses on hand to
see who's come ; scores of hackmen, baggage and express
wagons, carmen, and gamins in a state of internal fomenta-
tion after the papers, all of which can be seen any day at
almost all of our inland towns, where the steamboat and
train are daily institutions. Imagine the confusion in
prospect when the institution is only fortnightly !

There is, however, no occasion for alarm ; just three
men — and no more — appear peacefully smoking as we ap-
proach the dock ; and after sundry delays, receiving our
cable, the ship is made fast, a plank thrown, and the pas-
sengers walk down the long, dreary pier into the street in

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

search of conveyances. Not a very entliusiastic reception,
certainly.

A solitary bup^gy finally appears, which takes the mail.
The papers — two weeks of dailies, mind you, and the illus-
trated weeklies— are handed into a shed by the ship's crew.
Where they lie for an hour or more without molestation.
The trunks are also trundled into a shed for examination.
So much for the landing.

It is something singular with what a degree of suspicion
Her Majesty's Lower Provincials regard their neighbors
from the " States." Wooden nutmegs and 'cuteness are
looked upon by them as our regular stock in trade ; and
the story of the ship laden with wooden hams which once
landed in this port is as green in their memory as though
of yesterday's occurrence.

You get an inkling of this feeling in the baggage-search-
ing. Several former residents of the Province, returning
after an absence, were suffered to pass their trunks without
even opening, while that of ourself was most remorselessly
ransacked, possibly with the intent of making up by
thoroughness what was lacking in rapidity. Even his
Sunday coat and best boots received a crushing scrutiny,
to ascertain positively that cargoes of tobacco, beeswax, and
chipped logwood were not concealed about them. Satis-
fied at last, a carriage was obtained through the agency of
a small boy, and he was passed.

Coming down from the wharf, a good opportunity is of-
fered of viewing the buildings, of the larger portion of
which our hotel is a fair specimen — a heavy wood, low,
shingled on the sides as well as the top, and painted that
color ! — how shall wo describe it ? Imagine a painter, in
a fit of color-ic insanity, combining a mixture of equal pro-
portions of the semi-neutrals, yellow ochre and coal-dust,

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

and conceive the effect. Nearly the whole city wears this
odd hue — " mouse " tint some call it — " subdued mouse"
undoubtedly, though we think enraged rat would be quite
as appropriate.

Much of the business portion of the city is built of brick
and stone, as are the public buildings, some of which are
fine; but the houses, to a unit, are Nova Scotia oak and
spruce — low, "'icavy, very many shingled all over, and all
on the " mouse," giving the town certainly a unique ap-
pearance.

The Streets are narrow. They are long in one direc-
tion like those of N'ew-York. They are almost as dirty.
They are not as crowded. In walking fifty rods on Gran-
ville strtiet, the leading thoroughfare, at 5 p.m., July 4th, it
being wet and rainy, we met and passed two persons, n^
single vehicle bemg visible in the distance. Had the
weathor been pleasant, the number might have been dou-
bled or triplfcu. Coming from New- York or Boston, it
seems like a p(^rpet*i.al Sabbath. A crowd is a thing un-
mentioned in the papers ; no omnibuses rattle over, the
pavements, and, O happy people ! hand-organs are un-
known. A horse-railroad extends through on a parallel
with the coast, and now and then a car is seen containing
one or two passengers ; fare, seven cents in gold.

Business is said to partake of the general stagnation of
the States. In a shopping excur* ion, po&yibly one might
be reasonably excused from fancying it had taken the
whole of i;., Old-fashioned gold and silver are the general
currency — British sovereigns, half-crowns, and shillings—
though counted by dollars, a sovereign representing five.

N. B. — In buying sovereigns in Wall street to take
abroad, they are valued at $5.02 American gold; other-
wise, at $4.85, as usual.

((

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

ive.
take
kher-

Nearly all morchandiso comes direct from England. Dry-
goods arc cheap. Alcohol is only thirty-five cents a gal-
lon. Paper comes from Belgium. Books, about equally
from London and the United States. Ices, chocolate, cara-
mel, and nougat are out of mdrket, as Maillard and Bigot
do not advertise in the Halifax Herald. TJiat the living is
high, however, we give one (to-day's) dinner-bill verbatifn,
same beuig written on a half-sheet of commercial note :

" Halifax Hotel.— Bill of Fare : Soup. Frsir.—Salmon,
Cod, Herring, Olivers. Potatoes. RoAST. — Beef, Pork.
Entrees. — Eggs, Bacon, and Greens. Potatoes. Pas-
TllY.~P adding."

We have never tasted as fine fish or better bacon. We
have strawberries, too, at tea, so small you might put a
hundred in your mouth and whistle almost any air with
tolerable accuracy, but of delicious flavor.

The water, coming from inland lakes, is said to be very
pure and soft. From our own experience we should say it
held in solution definite proportions of assafa3tida and sal
epsom. Its effect as a beverage is not happy. Even the
" Haligonians" (regular appellation of citizens) themselves
do not favor it. The best of English ale and liquors are
plenty and cheap.

The People. — Standing a sort of connecting link be-
tween Great Britain and the United States, it would be sup-
posed natural that the inhabitants should partake, to a cer-
tain extent, of the characteristics of each nation ; but the
actual condition exhibits a great deal of Her Majesty and
very little of Uncle Sam.

There is a sturdy steadiness about the people very un-
like the pert briskness and wide-awake activity of Uncle
Sam's boys.

They are slow to anger, or to any thing else ; largely cau-

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THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

tious, distrustful of strarif^ers, and not particularly given to
rapid or brilliart conversation.

It takes time, and considerable of it, to inculcate an
idea with the masses ; and when once engrafted, it never
changes or goes out.

They don't catch at novelties with avidity. A genuine
invention, we believe, was never known as originating in the
Province, and mowing-machines and soothing-syrup are
hardly appreciated.

The Sights. — " The Lakes," a most romantic little chain
of trout-ponds, some distance up country ; " The Gold
Mines," " Downs," a noun in the possessive, referring to
the estate of Mr. A. Downs, naturalist, ornithologist, and
" genius," whose grounds present a most lively diversity of
birds, beasts, and reptiles, in a state of natural preservation.
He has caged apes, boxed otters, penned gazelles, house
parrots, penned bears, stuffed alligators, and the American
eagle, alive and screaming, covered with a high netting to
prevent a return to " home, sweet home" — a perfect Bar-
num's out of doors, and the resort of tl .3 Haligonian public
and the world generally, who are politely requested " not
to tease the bear."

" The Citadel," a roomy fortress occupying the top of a
vast hill, whose base forms the inner circle of a crescent,
which the city in shapa very nearly resembles, the outer
circle of the crescent being represented by the shore of the
beautiful harbor.

One thousand of the British regular infantry are quar-
tered there at present. Three regiments are also in bar-
racks at the upper end of the to\vn.

Through the kindness of Hon. Mr. Jackson, United
States Consul, we were permitted to view the interior. No
foreigners are allowed to take notes.

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

That Halifax is attracting mucli more attention than for-
merly, is seen by the not uafrequent arrival of New-York-
ers, eitlier for curiosity or pleasure.

SAINT JOHN'S, NEW-BRUNSWICK.

I Drive down to Commercial Wharf in Boston very early

some of these hot July mornings ; take one of the Interna-
tional Company's first-class steamers and a breezy sea voy-
age along tlie bleak coast of Maine. Portland, with her
poor, scarred visage invites your attention ; her fair formed
harbor, rounded by graceful, grassy islands, cool and tran-
quil, ib a refreshing prospect. Further on, ponderous At-
lantic on the right, ai^d at the left a coast sublime in its
bleakness and barren rocky chaos. Eastport, the full re-
alization of " away down east," terminus of the prohibitory
law and brown bread. St. John's, commencement of the
new Dominion, and the only city in Xew-Brunswick. \.
little more alive than old-fashioned, sea-beaten Halifax, a
little less a modern city than any other west of the Bay of
Fundy — a lumb*^ring Saint John in both the literal and
figurative. Walk up the hill from the landing and take a
look about. The " thoroughly Hinglish hideas " impress a
stranger at once. Prince William, King, Queen, Duke, St.
George and Princes streets are the royal avenues you pass.
" London House," "Victoria Store," etc., attract the eye.

The city, built in the acute angle formed by the river
and the bay, lies upon a hill slope, from the top of which
the entire town lies at your feet. Miles of the broad river,
too, Partridge Island, Suspension Bridge, and the Bay of
Fundy, noted from time immemorial for bold scenery, and
its high, sudden tides, 25, 40, and GO feet against the
steep and precipitous shores, whose rocky headlands
succeed each other with picturesque effect.

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i'li

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

Wliat billions of fisli tliere are in that bay, if you could
only count them: Forty thousand salmon, seventeen
thousand Imrrels of shad — cod, pollack, hake, haddock,
halibut, herring, gaspererux, lobsters, and " small fry " in-
numerable, taken every year, find just as many left. Two
hundred boats and five thousand men constantly employed,
and the produce divided between Europe and America.
Verily, if you want "to be pleased and cat a fish," as Wal-
ton hath it, this is the place to visit. Bring along an I. R.
overcoat with you, and an umbrella, at any price ; ten to
one you'll land in a rain-storm, and the fog is dense enough
to dip almost any morning. Not much in the fast and
fashionable line, this isn't. Novelty is the leading attrac-
tion; fogs, fishes, and militia red coats making quite a
change to the Saratoga programme. There is a park up
the hill, at the head of the principal street — called King
Square. It has a huge gateway like the entrance to our
Greenwood, done in white oak plank. Greenwood lies be-
hind it, too, or at least a cemetery curious and ancient, the
burial-x^lace of the early settlers, but now made a pleasure
park by the citizens. Winding walks and rustic seats
and gay flowers, and, over all, grave -stones ! No signs
or appearance of mound or grave left, but simply the
brown slabs rising out of the same. Singular ornaments
for a pleasure-ground! Fancy Central Park dotted all
over with brown tomb-stones, sticking in the turf in all
directions and at all angles. " Blossom and decay " in-
deed ! Here and there, where the newer walks have been
cut, they stand like hitching-posts against the graveled
edge, and occasionally an old sepulchre is seen transform-
ed into a broad seat for the benefit of the lively prome-
naders.

Antiquated inscriptions these stones bear — quaint records

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

of the century past. Let us read a few of tliera. One
standing near the entrance is qui^e prominent :

" Sacred to the memory of Mary Edward, spouse of Tho-
mas Majoribanks, who departed this life the 39th of Au-
gust, 1788, aged 50 years, sincerely regretted by all who
knew her. This stone was erected by her surviving part-
ner, who feels and deplores her irreparable loss."

Another near the north-east corner, veiy much worn and
defaced by time and weather :

" In memory of Ann Peel, wife of Humphrey Peel, who
died Jan. 15th, 1785, in the 37th year of her age :

' Now I am dead and in my grave, ,

And all my bones be rotten ;
Those lines you see remember me,
Though I am quite forgotten."

Certainly, if the reverend ancestors of this thoughtless
generation are 7iot remembered, the very stones cry out
against them. Numbers of the graves must have contain-
ed several persons, whole families and some relations in
many cases, judging by the inscriptions. Here is one in
partnership apparently :

" This stone was erected by Thomas and William Waters,
in memory of their beloved wives, Ellen and Mary. Mary,
the wife of William, who departed this life Oct. 23d, 1821.
Ellen, the wife of Thomas, who departed this life April 12th,
1822 ; likewise her four infant children, llequiescaiit in
pace. Amen."

Really, one would hardly believe that any thing short
of an English churchyard contained such unique speci-
mens. — St. John is generally flooded with strangers dur-
ing the summer — Canadians coming down to get a breath
of the sea air, and to see their cousins ; businciss men from
the " States," who make an annual visit to their customers,

t W:

ill W-

THE DOMINION OP CANADA.

and settle old scores. Many come out of curiosity ; some
for tlie fish and some for the ride — going abroad in an
abridged way without the long voyage and immense pock-
et draught attendant.

A trip up the Saint John Kiver is pleasant, and puts one
in mind, of a sail up the Rhine — possibly, but probably, a
good deal more of a ride up the Connecticut. It is esti-
mated that no less than 13,000,000 feet of lumber comes
down this same river Saint John every year. Two steam-
boats ply daily 90 miles to Fredericton, the capital of the
province, said to be a very pretty place, by the way, and
well garnished with red coats, enough of which are visi-
ble anywhere across the Canada line.

No " Americans " that I hear of remain here for the
summer — all transient — a look and off. Of the hotel ac-
commodations the least said the better. Park, Waverley,
and Stubbs are the principal houses.

-♦♦♦-

■ f

CAl^ADIAS MIIsEEAL SPEISCS.

CALEDONIA.

The famous Plantagenet water, and some sulphur waters,
are to be found at Caledonia, (L'Original,) Ontario, 72 miles
from Montreal. The route thither is that pursued in the
article entitled To River Ottawa : from Montreal by La
Chine Railway to La Chine, thence to the steamboat sta-
tion, L'Original, by steamboat and cars ; thence by stages,
9 miles— or to Point Fortune, opposite Carillon, instead
of L'Original. The journey from Montreal occupies about
12 hours, and is one of the grandest in the Dominion.

H(W"piw«iuiipM nmmnf^T'^T'mfr

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

The springs may also be readied from Prescott, opposite
Ogdensburg, on tlie Saint Lawrence, by rail to Ottawa,
and thence by boat and rail, as described in the article on
River Ottawa.

The Plantagenet water is too well-known as a valuable
curative for rheumatic and cutaneous affections to need
description here, and the contiguity of the springs to the
Canadian metropolis assures the tourist of meeting there
abundant and excellent society. The " season" is during
the heats of August.

The Plant»igenet water was first discovered, it is said,
by the i)igeons; and they used to flock thither in such
great numbers that human curiosity investigated the
place, and found that the pigeon's instinctive scent of salt
had led him aright. There are hotel accommodations
so excellent that LippincoW s Gazetteer has made them
the chief subject of remark in mentioning the springs.

THE SAINT LEON SPRINGS

Are at the village of Saint Leon, on the Riviere du Loup
en Haut, between Montreal and Quebec, 20 miles by
stage from Three Rivers. As is stated in the article on
Ontario and the Saint Lawrence, (which see,) this
city stands at the mouth of the River Saint Maurice, at the
foot of the Lake Saint Peter, midway between Montreal
and Quebec. The scenery in the region is very grand,
particularly up the Saint Maurice to the Shawenegan
Falls.

SAINT CATHERINE'S.

The famous springs of Saint Catherine's, chiefly prized
among Canadian mineral waters, are located at the town
of the same name, in Ontario Province, 11 miles from

lib 1!^

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(Hi

10 THE DOMIIflON OF CANADA.

Niagara Falls, and 33 from Hamilton. It is reached by
the Great Western Railway of Canada, cither from Detroit
or Suspension Bridge. The resort is popular, not only
among Canadians, but with great numbers of tourists and
health-seekers from the United States. The hotel arrange-
ments have not come to hand at the latest moment, and
we are therefore obliged to omit them.

LIST OF SALMON AND TROUT RIVERS BELOW QUEBEC.

(From the Canadian Handbook and Tourists'' Guide.)

MUes.

From Quebec to Murray Bay 78

The Saint Lawrence here furnishes a few salmon and many
fine trout.

From Murray Bay to the Saguenay 44

The fishing here is for the white porpoise, and has been men-
tioned in the article on the Saint Lawrence.

River Escoumain 23

Between this and the Saguenay are two branches of the Ber-
geronne, both furnishing a few salmon and many trout.

River Portneuf 26

Plenty of trout and salmon.

Sault au Cochon 9

Impassable for salmon, but full of trout.

La Val 2

Superior salmon and trout.

Bersemis 24

In all its tributaries are many fine salmon ; between it and La
Val are the Colmnbia, Plover, and Blanche, all poor salmon
streams.

River Outardes 11

Manicouagan — 4 16

Mistassimi 13

Betscie 3

Godbou 15

A celebrated salmon river, one of the best in Quebec Pro-
vince.

11
16
12
3
15

THE DOMINION OF CANADA. Tl

Miles.
Trinity 15

Good salmon and trout.

Little Trinity 10

Calumet 3

Pentecost , . 14

Not a salmon river.
Sa^te Marguerite 36

One of the best for both salmon and trout.
Moisie '. 23

Celebrated for fine, large salmon.

Trout 7

Manitou 35

Good trout fishing ; salmon obstructed by falls.

Sheldrake 16

Magpie 22

Only a few salmon.
Saint John 5

An admirable salmon stream
Mingan 16

Probably the best salmon river in Quebec Province, and ex-
cellent for trout.

The streams emptjdng into tlie Saint Lawrence from the
south are ruined by mill-dams for salmon, excepting those
emptying into Gaspe Basin ; but they all afford superior
trout fishing. This section of country may be reached by
steamer for Saint John, leaving Boston at 7| a.m. ; time
out, 33 hours ; fare, $6 ; meals extra. Or, one may go by
rail to Pc^tland, and intercept the steamer — or go from
Portland to Calais, Maine, by another steamboat, and
thence by rail to Woodstock, New-Brunswick, on the
River Saint John, whence by stage (Grand Portage road)
to Riviere du Loup.

STEAMBOAT ROUTES.

There are two lines of steamboats traversing the whole
length of Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence from the

,; W.

THE DOMINION OF CANADA.

western end to Montreal. One is English and the other
American. The former, the Royal Mail Line, office in
Great Saint James street, Montreal, follows the English
shore exclusively until it reaches Clayton and Alexandria
Bay, in the river. The latter, the Ontario Steamboat
Company, also known as the American Express Line,
Capt. H. N. Throop, Oswego, N. Y., Superintendent, touches
at all the American stations on both lake and river, and
at Toronto, Kingston, Prescott, and, of course, Montreal,
besides. The fare on both is about the same, but the gold
question affords some annoyance always on the English
side. American travelers usually much jirefer the Ontario
Steamboat Company's arrangements, although there is
one change of boats at Ogdensburg, which there is not on
the other. The fares and times have not been sent us ;
but the American boats will probably leave Lewiston (hav-
ing come from Toronto) for Oswego, Ogdensburg, Mont-
real, etc., at 11 A.M. each day during the season, which
begins very early and continues till November. The
American boats are the Ontario, Bay State, Lord Elgin,
etc., and the English boats are the Magnet, the Alexandra,
the Columbian, etc. Below Montreal, the Richelieu boats
are under the same control as the Royal Mail Line ; of
American boats we have received no intelligence. There
is usually some opposition line running from Montreal to
Quebec, and thence to the Saguenay. All boats change at
Montreal and Quebec.

There are " excursions" from Montreal to the city of
Ottawa and to all points below Montreal, even to Halifax
and Saint John's. Handbills referring to them may
always be found at the principal hotels in Montreal. The
prices stated, it should be remembered, are in silver, not
greenbacks.

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TIME TABLES.

WHITE MOUNTAINS.
Connecticut and Passumpsic Kivors Railway.

Going South.

M lil.

A.M.

7 oo

i8
30
40

8 12

8 32

8*53

9 06
9 18
9 25

• • • •

9 46
9 SI

• • • «

10 13
10 28
10 35

10 45
n 02

11 16
II 24

" 35

11 so

12 00

NOON

Frs. Miles

55
80

95
30

(>5
80

1 90

2 00

15
30
40

55
70

95
10

55
^>5
85
05

5
10

15
20

25
33

42
47
49

52
56

59
62
66
70

74
77
81
88
93

95
100

106

110

STATIONS.

Going North.

Miles. Frs

Leave Arrive

...North-Derby. , .

Newport

Coventry

. ..narton Landing

1 10
105
1 00

, 95
H.\k TOM ' 90

. . ..South- Bar ton. .

West-Hurke

Folsoni's

LVNOON

..St. Johnsbury Cen..
. . St. JoHN.sntTRY ..

Passunipsi ^ ....

McLeran'.s

Barnet

. . , . Mclndoes

Ryegate

. .Wi.t.LS River. . .

Newbury

. ..South-Newbury . .

Bradford

Fairlee

..North-Thetfor 1...

Thetford

. . . Ponipanoosuc . . .

Norwich

White River Junc.
Arrive Lea-'-e

«5
77
70
68

63
61

SH
54
51
48

44
40

36
33
29
22

17
15

4
o

95
75
^•5
3 50
3 15
2 85

2 75
2 60
2 SO
2 40
2 25
2 10
00
85
65

50
40

95
75
65
45
25
o

ail.

p. M.»

4 40

P M.

RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.

At Wells River, with White Mountains Railway for Littleton, (the
nearest railway station to White and Francnn Mountains,) and Boston,
Concord, and Montreal Railway for Concord.

At White River Junction, with Northern (N. H.) Railway for Con-
cord Manchester, Portsmouth, Nashua, Worce ter. Providence, Lowell,
Law.ence, and Boston, i'ertnont Central Raihvay, for Waterbury, Mount
Mansfield, Montpelier, Burlington, (Jgdensburg, Montreal, and Saratoga
Springs. Ve^ uont Central ajtd Connecticut River L me, for Windsor,
Bellows Fall>, Rutland, Sin-at .ga Springs, Kcene, Fitchburg, Worcester,
Providence, Brattleboro, Northampton, Springfield, Hartford, New-Haven,
New- York, and Southern cities.

STEAMBOAT CONNECTION.

Steamer leaves Newport daily, during the pleasure travel season, for
Magog, connecting with coaches for Grand Trunk Railway, (Sherbrooke
Station,) arriving at Montreal or Quebec same evening.

TIME TABLES.

I ^ I-

^*;4

BOSTON, CONCORD, AND MONTREAL, AND
WHITE MOUNTAINS (N.H.) RAILWAYS.

CONCORD TO LITTLErON. | LITTLETON TO CONCORD.

Ace.

Mail.

P.M.

3 23
3 32

54
10

25
35
52

57
12

5 49

6 OS

P.M.

A.M.

10 34

10 41

• • • •

11 02
11 20

II 35

11 45

12 02
12 07
12 22
12 35

I 08

2 11
2 20

2
3
3
3
4
4
4
4
4
5
5

34
45
15
30
43
00

05
20
40

57
13

P.M.

Mis.

5
10

13
18
22
27
29
33
37
41
45
48

57
59
62
67

89
93

9^
103

loS

STATION.S.

j arri

avc
rive

Leave Arrive

Concord*

Kast-Concord

North-Concord

Canterbury

Northtield

Sanbornton

Union Bridge

Laronia

Lakti Village

Weirs

Meredith Village

Fotjgs's Road

Holderness

Hridgevrater

Quincy

Ruiiiney

West-Rumney

Wentworth

Warren

East- Haverhill

..Haverhill and Newbury..

North- Haverliill

Wondsville

™^ (• Wells R.2 i ^^^^'^
leave j | arrive

Rath

Lisbon

North-Lisbon

Littleton

Arrive . Leave

Mis.

Ace.

A.M.

113

10 05

III

9 5S

loS

103

9 33

lOO

9 20

9 00

8 50

8 33

8 28

8 13

8 00

....

7 3^'

7 20

A.M.

20 1

20 i

■si

10 1

5 :

Mail.

P.M.

3 25
3 18

18
02
57
43
31

1 07

• • • •

12 52
12 26

• • • •

12 03

II 54
II 40
II 29

10 59

10 ,;4

ic 33

ID 17
10 12
10 06

9 47
9 30

9 15
9 00

A.M.

1 Railways diverging from Concord. — Boston, Concord, and Mon-
treal, above ; Northern ; Concord and Portsmouth ; Concord and Clare-
mont ; Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence.

2 Connects with Connecticut and Passumpsic River Railw.iy.
Steamer Lady of the Lake, during the season of navigation, leaves

Weirs for Centre Harbor, Wolfboro, etc., on arrival of each train.

Stages leave Plymouth and Littleton for White Mountains and Fran-
conia Notch.

Stages leave Sanbornton for New-Hampton and Gilmanton ; Meredith
Village, for Conway ; Plymouth, for Franconia ; Littleton, for Lancaster ;
and Barton, for Stanstead and other places, (see Connecticut and Passump-
sic Railway,) on the arrival of the first up-train from Boston.

TiaiE TABLES.

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30
^5
00

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TIME TABLES.

For the "White and Franconia Mountains and Jjake

Memphremagog.

This is the most direct and pleasant route to White and Franconia
Mountains, Lal:e Willoughby, and Lake Memphremagog, passing near
the villages of Norwich, Vt., Hanover, N. H., (where is located the cele-
brated Dartmouth College,) Thetford, Vt., Lyme, N. H., Fairlee, Vt.,
Orford, N. H., Bradford, Vt., Haverhill, N. H., Newbury, Vt., (the loca-
tion of the sulphur springs, much resorted to for their medicinal qualities,)
Wells River, Vt., (where White Mountains Railway connects for Little-
ton, the nearest railway station to the White and Franconia Mountains,)
Barnet, St. Johnsbury, Lyndon, Barton, and Newport, (the head of Lake
Memphremagog.)

The hotel accommodations along the entire line are first-class. " Smok-
ing-cars" run on all trains. Luxuriously furnished " ladies' cars" run
daily between Springfield and Lake Memphremagog during the pleasure-
travel season.

From New- York. — The route via New- York and New-Haven Rail-
way, or New- Haven Steamers and Connecticut River Valley, is sixty
vtiles shorter than any other, and the time correspondingly quicker. The
scenery along the valley of the Connecticut River, which is followed for
some 200 miles, is unsurpassed for beauLy and variety. There is no
change of cars between Springfield ard Lake Memphremagog.

From Boston. — The route is via Boston and Lowell, Boston and
Maine, or Fitchburg Railways to White River Junction, there connecting
with Passumpsic Road for points as named above. No change of cars be-
tween Boston (Lowell Railway depot) and Lake Memphremagog.

From Saratoga Springs. — The route '\%via Lake George, Lake Cham-
plain, and Burlington, or via Rutland and Bellows Falls to White River
Junction, as above.

From Quebec. — The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sherbrooke,
thence by coach to Magog, connecting with steamer for Newport, thence
by Passumpsic Railway to White and Franconia Mountains, New- York,
or Boston.

From Montreal. — The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sher-
brooke, or via Montreal and Champlain and Stanstead, ShefFord and
Chambly Railways, to Waterloo ; thence by coaches to Magog or Knov\J-
ton's Landing, connecting with steamer for Newport, thence by Passump-
sic Railway to White Mountains, New- York, or Boston.

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TIME TABLES.

JjONG branch.— Baritan & Delaware Bay Railway.

Going South.

Going North.

Accom.
Train.

•

^ if.

rv U3

A.M.

11 15

12 40
12 50

I 10
'l'2i

30
31
33
34

STATIONS.

91
90

87
85
84

85
86

88
89

43
u

c .

Oil

P.M.
4 00

4 15

5 22

P.M.
4 00

4 15

5 35
5 45
5 52

5 59

6 II
6 17
6 26

6 31
6 36
6 42
6 46

Leave Arrive
( . . . New- York . . . )
J Pier No. 32, x\. R. [
( Pier No. 3, N. R. )

{Steamboat)

P. M. PiKK

..Port Monmouth. .
Hichlands.

P.M.
2 QO

12 40
12 32

12 12
12 02

A.M.

9 35
9 20

7 55
7 48
7 41
7 34
7 22

7 15
7 09

A.M.

9 35
9 20

8 07

. . .Middletown

Red B'Vnk..

5 43

■ • • •

P.M.

Shrewsburv

P.M.

12 02

Junction

I 13

• • • ' '

I 26
I 31

I 37
I 41

' Eatontovvn. . . .

.... Oceanport

Branchport . . .

, . .Long Branch. .

II 56

II 51
II 46
II 40

7 02
6 56
6 51
6 45

12 20
12 24

5 59

6 02

7 30
7 25

I 01

12 56

HOUS ATONIC RAIL^WAY.

Bridgeport to Pittsfield. | Pittsfield to Bridgeport.

Pass.

p.m.

A.M.

S 35

10 30 1

6 03

10 58

6 14

II ID

6 25

II 21

6 41

II 35

6 59

11.50

7 IS

12 OS

7 31

12 22 1

8 01

12 52 1

8 20

1 09

8 34

I 23

8 .^

I 38

9 06

I 53 i

9 II

I 58 •

9 21

2 08

9 36

2 24

9 45

2 34

9 52

2 42 !

10 00

2 51

10 06

2 58 1

p.m.

3 05
17

3 30

3 50

P.M.

Mis.

o
10
IS
19
23
29
35
42
48

57
61
67

73
75
79
85
87
89

92
93

95
99

lOI

102
106
no

STATIONS.

Leave

. . Bridgeport. .

Stepney. . . .

Botsford: . . .

. . . . Newtown . . . .
. . . Hawleyville. .
. . ..Brookfield. .. .
. .New-Milford...
. .Gaylordsville.. .

Kent ..

.Cornwall Bridge.
.West Cornwall. .
...Falls Village..

Canaan

...Ashlev P'alls . .

....Sheffield

. .. Barrington . . .
. .V. Deusenville .
. . . Housatonic . . .

Glendale . . . .

. . . Stockbridge. . .

South-Lee

Lee

.Lenox Furnace..

Lenox

Deweys

. . Pittsfield.. ,

Arrive

Leave

Mis.

Pass, j

p.m.

2 20

100

I 53

I 39

I 23

III

12 55

12 39

12 22

12 07

II 34

IT 24

II 08

10 52

10 45

10 35

10 19

10 10

lo 05

9 5^

9 51

9 45

9 34

9 26

9 22

9 12

9 00

A.H.

Pass.

p.m.
8 25

41
29
16
56

34
16

56
33
19
00

44
3^>
26
II

57
48

3 20
3 12
03
SO

P.M.

\} ill

Through Fare, $3 10.

TIME TABLES.

i>rAUGATUCK HAILWAY.

Bridgeport to Winsted.

WiNSTED TO Bridgeport.

Pass.

P.M.

5 20
5 32
5 39

<>5
14
26

37
49
53
08
i8
40

57
8 05
8 14

8 31
8 44

P.M.

Pass.

Mis.

A.M.

10 15

10 26

10 33

II 00

11 og

11 21

11 32

II 44
II 48

12 03

12 13

12 35

12 52

I 00

I 10

I 27

I 40

57
62

P.M.

•

STATIONS.

Leave

Arrive

.Bridgeport.
. ..Stratford. . .
. . Junction. . .

Derby. . ..

. . . Ansonia. . .
. ..Seymour.. .
.Beacon Falls.
. Naugatuck. .
..Union City. .
. Waterbury.
. .Waterville . ,
. . Plymouth. . .
Camp's Mills.
. . Litchneld. . ,
.Wolcottville .
. ,, Burrville. ..
..Winsted. ..

Arrive

Leave

Mis.

Pass.

A.M.

10 GO

57 !

9 50

56 :

9 44

48 1

9 17

46 !

9 09

42 1
39

8 55
8 44

8 3T

8 28

8 16

8 03

7 41

7 25

^ 17

7 08

6 52

6 40

A.M.

Pass.

P.M.

30
18

37
24
13
01

57
45
31
12

55
47
38
2 22
2 10

P.M.

^^ r

Through Fare, $2.05.

^Hi

't. ■•■

ii'lH

Ijill

i -;

'"■,

TKENTON FALIiS.-UTICA AND BLACK KIVEB

KAIL^WAY.

Mixed.

P.M.

5 30

5 48

6 00

6 24

Pass.

Mis

A.M.

8 00

8 20

8 35

• • . •

9 03

STATIONS.

Leave

, .. Utxca

Marcy

Stittsville . . .

..Holland Patent.

Trenton ....

.Trenton Fal'..

Arrive

Mis.

Mixed.'

A.M.

II 10

29
25

ID 50
10 38

19
18

10 13

Pass.

2 35

TIME TABLES.

iss.

30
10

58
35

TIME TABLES.

!■ '>ii

KENSSELAER AND SAR. TOGA BAIL WAY.

Accom.

Mail.

Miles.

STATIONS.

Miles.

Accom.

Mail.

P.M.

A.M.

Leave Arrive

1 A.M.

P.M.

4 25

7 10

, ,

Albany^

• •

10 50

9 00

4 50

7 45

. .

. ...Schenectady

• •

10 05

8 25

4 40

7 30

Troy

10 35

8 50

4 45

7 36

. . .Green Island

10 30

8 45

4 58

7 49

Waterford

10 18

8 30

5 06

7 58

. . Albany Junction. .

10 13

8 22

5 21

8 13

.. .Mechanicsville. . .

9 56

8 07

5 50

8 46

Ballston2

9 24

7 36

6 15

9 10

Saratoga

9 05

7 17

6 44

9 :5

Gansevoort

8 33

6 44

7 00

9 48

Moreau^

8 19

6 29

7 07

9 S3

...Fort Edward...

8 13

6 24

7 16

lo 01

. . Dunham's Basin. .

8 02

6 15

7 28

10 12

., ..Smith's Basin. ..

7 so

6 04

7 39

10 23

Fort Ann

7 39

5 S3

7 SO

10 33

Comstock's Landing.

7 28

5 42

8 06

10 50

^ ) . . Junction. . ( =

7 10

5 25

• • •

^\ .h. Cham.4. jl

■ • • •

■ • ■ •

8 10

10 53

• •

=: ) . . Junction. . ( J5

a •

7 05

5 20

8 32

II 18

Fairhaven

6 43

4 58

8 38

II 23

Hydeville

6 37

4 52

8 47

II 32

. ...Castleton^.. . .

6 28

4 42

9 05

11 50

...West- Rutland

6 12

4 25

9 IS

12 00

Rutland"

6 00

4 15

P.M.

Arrive Leave

A.M.

P.M.

Connects with Hud, R. Railway ;
Troy and Schenectady Railway ;
and Troy and Greenbush R'way.

Steamboats to New- York, etc.

Junction of Saratoga and Schenec-
tady Railway.

Glenn's Falls, Lake George, etc.

^ Steamboats to Burlington, Platts-
burg and Montreal.

^ Junction of Rutland and Washing-
ton Railway.

" Connects with Rutland and Bur-
lington Railway.

WHITE MOUNTAINS
Grand Trunk Railway of Canada.

Pass.

A.M.

7 40

7 55

8 ID

8 14

8 43

9 00

9 27

9 40

10 00

A.M.

Express.

Miles.

P.M.

I 10

I 25

I 40

I 45

2 15

2 30

2 55

27
36

3 10

3 30

4 10

47
62

4 40

5 15
5 30

80
86

5 SO

STATIONS.

Leave Arrive

..Portland. .

. ..Falmouth. .

. . Yarmouth . .

.Yarmouth Junction.

. New-Gloucester.
..Danville Junction. .

.Mechanic Falls.

Oxford

...South-Paris. .

.Bryant's Pond.

Bethel

Gilead

Shelburne. . .

GORHAM

Miles.

Pass.

A.M.

861

8 ID

857
850
849

839
834
82s

6 55

7 40
7 35
7 03

i 6 47
6 18

820

6 05

814

5 45

799

A.M.

791

781

• • • •

775

■ • • •

770

• • ■ •

Express.

P.M.

2 15
00
40

35
00

12 45
12 15
12 00
II 40

II GO
10 30

9 so
9 30

TIME TABLES.

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TIME TABLES.

MILWAUKEE A.ND ST. PAUL KAILWAY.

Exp.

Pass.

A.M.

P.M.

8 20

11 CX)

9 OS

II 48

9 25

12 05

10 13

12 SI

10 30

I 06

10 55

I 33

II 40

2 30

• • • •

3 35

• • • •

5 55

12 00

2 50

12 30

3 17

I 30

4 22

2 47

6 05

3 35

7 10

3 57

7 35

4 20

S05

4 40

....

5 30

9 00

7 05

10 00

8 20

P.M.

10 01

10 40

II 00

II 10

II 54

12 24

12 59

I 37

2 29

3 16

4 32

S 18

5 50

6 02

6^3

7 50

8 20

12 00

8 10

11 50

P.M.

A.M.

Mis.

14
20

5°

71
105

70
80

132
138
145

151
165

193
194

220

231

237
240

256

267

279
290

30s
320

338
353
364
367
380
400
409
406

STATIONS.

Leave

.Milwaukee.
, Brookfield Junction.

Waukesha

Eagle

Pafmyra

. . . Whitewater . . .
. .Milton Junction. . .

Arrive

Janesville

arrive Monroe leave

Edgerton

Stoughton

, Madison.

Mazomanie

Spring Green

Lone Rock

Avoca

Muscoda

Boscobel

Prairie du Chien

I^ORTH McGregor

Postville

Ossian

Calmer

Conover

.Cresco

..Lime Springs

Le Roy

Adams

..Austin......

Blooming Prairie

Owatonna

Faribault

Dundas

Northfield ,....

Farmington

Mendota

arrive. . .Minneapolis. . .leave

....^ St. Paul

Arrive Leave

Mis. I

*ass.

P.M.

406

5 50

392

4 52

386

4 35

370

3 49

364

3 34

356

3 12

343

2 30

351

I 30

384

9 SO

335

I 59

326

I 34

[2 50

288 ]

10 55

274 J

[o 00

267

9 35

261

9 05

255

8 40

240

6 00

213

S 00

212

A.M.

186

175

i6q

166

150

139

127

116

101

3 00

S(2

3 00

P.I

^.1

Exp.

M.
40
CO

50
30

OS
20

2 58

2 28

I 40

12 20

II 35
II i»

10 45
10 25

9 40

OS
00
20

39
18
08
22
SO
IS
37

12 50

II 59

II 03

10 00

9 25

9 13

8 36

825
8 00
8 00

A.M.

TIME TABLES.

05
00
20

39
18
08
22
50
15
37
50
59

03
00

25
13
36

BOUTBS WESTWABD.

From li'ew-York to Chicago, via Hudson Eiver Bailway,
New- York Central Bailway, Great Western Bailway,
and Michigan Central Bailway.

Leave 30th St. and loth Av.

" Yonkers

" Peekskill

•* Fishkill

" Poughkeepsie

" Hudson

Arrive Albany

Leave "

** Schenectady

" Little Falls

" Utica

" Rome

" Syra^-use

" Rochester

" Albion

" Lockport

Arrive Suspension Bridge
Leave " "

" Hamilton

" Loudon

" Chatham

Arrive Detroit

Leave "

" Ann Arbor ,

" Jackson

" Marshall

" Kalamazoo

« Niles

•' Michigan City

" Calumet

Arrive Chicago

8 00 a.m.

8 30 "

9 18

9 S3
10 30

" SI

12 50 P.M.

1 15 •*

t(
((
i(
({
((
((
((

2 00

3 55

4 45

5 "

6 30

9 30

10 40

11 32

12 20 A.M.
12 30

2 IS

5 25

7 SO
9 25

10 00

11 37

1 00 P.M.

2 20

3 46

5 13

6 27

8 15

9 00 P.M

i(
<<
«

((
<(

(<
«

II 30'

A.M.

12 03

P.M.

I 00

I 38

2 18

3 52

5 00

6 00

64s

9 10

10 10

10 45

12 25

A.M.

3 40

4 55

5 50

6 40

7 00

9 00

6 30 P.M. II 00 P.M.

t(
<(

8 01

8 41

9 25
10 55
12 00 night
12 10 A.M.

3
5
6

55
45
15
45
00

10 10

11 05

12 40

3 15

5 00

P.M.

((

5 45

7 35

9 20

10 50

12 30
2 40

A.M.

4 05

S 45

6 30

A.M.

5
7
9
9

I
2
3
5
7

n
(t
((

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((
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55
35
00

20
00

30
22

00 A.M.
13 "
30
40

(«
ti
It

8 48

9 30 A.M.

25
17
05
25

7 IS

8 00

10 27

11 22

12 07

1 40

5 30

6 52

8 07

9 00
9 20

11 05

2 IS

4 45

6 30

7 OS
9 00

10 50

12 35
2 10

4 13

5 SO

7 30

8 15

A.M.
ti

«c

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P.M.
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A.M.

tt
tt
tt
ft

P.M.

tt
it
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P.M.

LONG ISLAND.

Passengers leave by James Slip Ferry, or foot of Thirty-fourth street,
East River, New- York, for Hunter's Point Depot, as follows :

9 00 A.M., Mail train for Greenport and way stations.
II 00 " for Northport and way-stations.

3 00 P.M., Express train for Riverhead, running through to Greenport on

Saturdays.

4 00 " for Jluntingdon, Northport, etc.

5 30 " for Farmingdale, North- Islip, etc.

m^" On Sundays a train leaves Hunter's Point for Northport at 9.30 a.m.,
and returns at 3 p.m.

Distance from New- York to Greenport, 94 miles.

TIME TABLES.

BOUTEB WESTWARD.
Erie Bailway and Conneoting Lines.

STATIONS.

Day

Express.

Express
Rlail.

Night
Express.

Emigrant.

NhW-YORK. .]

L've

7 30 A.M.

10 00

A.M.

5 30 P.M.

6 30 P.M.

8 00 P.M.

Jersey City. .
Paterson

7 45 ;;

10 15

5 so ;;

6 50 "

8 IS ;;

Arr.

8 24 "

II 01

6 32 "

• • • •

9 12 "

Turner's

((

9 29 '•

12 25 dine.

7 38 sup.

8 31 sup.

II 02 "

Greycourt. . . .

((

9 44 "

I OS

P.M.

8 15 P.M.

• • • •

Warwick

10 30 "

2 20

((

a • • •

• • • •

■ • • •

Newburg

2 20

• • • •

Middletown..

«<

10 15 "

I 45

((

8 52 "

• • • •

12 2q A.M.

Port Jervis. . .

10 5'3 "

2 37

938 "

10 15 P.M.

' 43 J*

Susquehanna.

(«

2 43 dine.

7 18

sup.

2 02 A.M.

2 31 A.M.

10 42 bkft.

Great Bend..

3 23 P M.

7 59

P.M.

2 28 "

....

11 37 A.M.

Binghamton. .

3 49 "

8 32

((

2 59 ;;

32s ;;

12 29 P.M.

Owego

Elmira

((

4 34 ;;

5 49 "

9 33
II 20

348

S 12 "

4 IS

5 31

1 53 ;;
4 07 *

Corning. . ...
Home Isville.

631 "

12 35

A.M.

603 "

6 21 "

540 "

7 51 sup.

2 II

7 38 bkft.

7 50 bkft.

8 38 sup.

Attica

10 40 P.M.

4 40

{(

10 26 A.M.

3 12 A.M.

Buffalo....

12 GO MID.

6 12

<«

II 40 "

342 "

Salamanca. . . .

((

II 10 P.M.

5 SO

II 26 "

3 SO "

Dunkirk —

((

I 35 A.M.

8 03

I 20 dine.

63s "

Ithaca

((

6 15 P.M.

8 80 A.M.

8 00 A.M.

6 15 P.M.

Syracuse

((

8 00 "

" 35 *;

II 35 ;;

8 00 "

Canandaigua.

10 00 «

■ • • • •

10 15 "

10 IS "

1000 "

Avon

((

9 57 "

10 01 "

ID 01 *•

9 57 ;;

Rochester. . . .

10 42 "

II OS "

II OS «

1042 "

Caledonia. . . .

1043 "

LeRoy

((

II 01 "

Bat AVI A

((

II 29 "

Jamestown. . .

II 58 "

7 15

II 58 "

7 15 A.M.

Cony,

((

12 55 A.M.

8 50

I 00 P.M.

8 50 "

Titusville

((

II 10 "

II 10

644 "

11 10 '*

Shaffer's

((

II 30 "

II 30

70s "

II 30 ;;

Meadville. . . .

((

2 30 «

IX 45

235 "

II 45

Franklin

8 15 "

2 13

P.M.

70s

70s "

2 13

Oil City

9 00 "

2 40

7 50 ,,

7 SO "

2 40 "

Warren ..

4 49 "

3 15

S06 "

5 06 "

3 IS P.M.

Cleveland. . . .

7 00 «

• • • •

71s "

7 15 " •

• • ■ •

Cincinnati . . .

6 20 P.M.

• • • •

6 10 A.M.

• • • •

Buffalo —

L've

12 05 A.M.

6 30

A.M.

II 35 ••

II 35 "

7 45 A.M.

Dunkirk —

I 35 "

8 30

I 25 P.M.

12 27 P.M.

Cleveland...

Arr.

630 "

2 OS

P.M.

655 "

6 55 "

5 00 A.M.

Cincinnati.

5 10 P.M.

• • • •

6 20 A.M.

S 10 P.M.

Indi mapolis. .

7 GO "

2 so

A.M.

.. ..^ tt
7 30

730 *'

7 00 "

Louisville

((

6 30 A.M.

7 45

((

5 00 P.M.

6 30 A.M.

St. Louis. . .

((

10 15 "

3 IS

P.M.

10 IS ♦•

10 IS "

Toledo

II 30 "

7 40

II 40 "

1050 "

Detroit

5 SO

II 00 "

5 50 P.M.

Chicago

{(

9 00 P.M.

6 30

A.M.

9 30 A.M.

II 45 "

IIAILWAY ROUTES.

NEW-YORK TO DENVEB.
In and about Colorado.

From the Atlantic coast west there are so many routes that the traveler
can hardly miss a good one. One of the best, however, is by way of the
Lake Shore and Michigan Southern to Chicago.

The route west from Omaha is the only through line that has less than
250 miles of stage travel, and connections are made with it via Chicago
and North-Western, Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy, and Hannibal and
St. Joseph, with steamers on the Missouri River, or Council Bluffs and
St. Jo Road. Connections will be made soon by the Chicago, Rock Is-
land, and Pacific Poad.

From Cheyenne to Denver and Golden City, Wells, Fargo & Co. run a
first-class daily line of express coaches. Time, 20 hours. Fare, with 25
pounds of baggage, $25. They also run a second-class daily line to Den-
ver. Time; 36 hours. Fare, with 50 pounds of baggage, $10.

The Nye Forwarding Company run a daily fast freight line to Denver.
Time, 36 hours, carrying passengers, with 50 pounds of baggage, at %\o.

From New- York to Chicago 930 miles.

" Chicago to Omaha 494 **

" Chicago to Denver 1121 "

Time Table. — Coaches leave Denver for the mountains at 6 a.m. ; for
Cheyenne, (express,) at 7.15 ; by fast freight at i p.m. ; for Coyote, at 8)<^
A.M. ; for Pueblo and Santa F^, at 8 a.m. Cars leave Cheyenne for Oma-
ha, Chicago, and all points east, at 7 a.m., Omaha time. Cars leave Coy-
ote for State Line and St. Louis at 7 p.m.

f.
(.
I.

HUDSON RIVER AND HARLEM RAILWAYS.

T'nins for Albany and Troy, connecting with Northern and Western
trains, leave New- York via Hudson River Railway, Thirtieth street and
Tenth avenue, 8 and 11.30 a.m., and 3.45, 6.30, and ii p.m. ; and via Har-
lem Railway, Twenty-sixth street and Fourth avenue, at n a.m. and
4.35 P.M.

The 6.30 P.M. train, via Hudson River, will run on Sundays,

Sleeping-cars attached to 6.30 and 11 p.m. trains.

Drawing-room cars attached to 8 a.m. train.

V/HITE MOUNTAINS.

TABLE OF f RES.

New- York to Boston, by cars .'..... «6 oo

V "boat and cars ^ oo

Boston to Gorhatn, N. H., by cars 5 00

" "boat and cars 500

Gorham to Glen House, (stage,) , o^

Glen House to Crawford House, (stage,) ^00

" " North-Conway 325

Ascent of Mount Washington, by carriage-road, including toll 4 00

"bridle-path 350

Crawford House to Littleton, (stage,) 3 ^q

" " Profile House, (stage,) ^00

** " North-Conway, " .'!! 3 00

Profile House to Littleton, (stage,) 2 00

" Plymouth, " ..'.'.'.'.'.'','. 3 00

" " Wells River, (stage,) , 300

Boston to Centre Harbor, via Concord 3 50

" Woh trough, « " [..."sso

Centre Harbor or Wolf borough to North-Conway. (stage,) 3 64

Boston to Alton Bay, via Dover 2 -o

" Centre Harbor, via Dover 3 qq

* Wolf borough, " « 360

" North-Conway, z/M! Dover ,...640

** White Mountains, via Dover o oo

" Franconia Mountains, via Dover. 13 40

" Crawford House, z/zVi Concoid 1050

" Profile House, " " "!" 9 00

" " • Plymouth, (stage,) ..' 8 00

** Littleton, (B. C. & M. or N. R. R,) 700

" Plymouth ^ ^o

** Profile House, via Northern Railroad 9 00

** Crawford House, z'ib " «« ,050

oo
oo

CX)

oo
oo
oo

oo
so
so
oo
oo
oo
oo
oo
so
so

90
60
40
90
40

so
00
00
00
so
00

RATES OF FARE. 25

Boston to Lake Memphremagog -g

Waterbiiry, Vt

Waterbury to Mansfield House and Summit* House." and 'return. ! " * I «
New- York to Glen House, via Worcester, Concord, and North-
Conway

New- York to North-Conway, via Worcester' and Concord'. !!!.'.'!!.'!„ 75
Centre Harbor, " «• « « ^

*• Wolf borough, " «« u o "^

1 lymouth, " " k _ .

Profile House, via Worcester, Concord, and Ply*

mouth

„ la 10

Profile House, via Worcester, Concord, and Little-
ton

I* ^ Crawford's, via Worcester, Concord, and Littleton ..." 12 75

Profile House, via Connecticut River , j 35

" Crawford's, " " •«

' •••• ..I27<

Profile House, " Albany and Rutland 14 ,r

" Crawford's, •« «« « • • • • ^ ^a

. " • Profile House. " Lake Champlain and day-boats!! ! 14 35
*■ Crawford House, z/ia '* *' «« <« .0

;* Profile House. " « « " night-boats! !!3 85

Crawford House, " ** " «» u

" Profile House, ." » - u „. r. ^//^\^ ^3

mu- «. Crawford House, " ' « " H. R. R....16 45

White River Junction to Profile House .60

" Crawford's 5 j^

** Memphremagog Lake 4x5

BATES OP FA.RE.

KATES OF FARE FBOM NEW-TOBK TO

ist Class.

Atlanta, Ga 'i^4i oo

Attica, N. Y. 8 75

Ashland, ( )luo 16 80

Avon, N. Y. 7 8s

Adrian, Mich 18 75

Agency City, Iowa 36 10

Akron, Ohio »4 85

Alton, 111 ,. 3500

Ann Arbor, Mich 1760

Anderson, Ind 23 75

Appleton, Wis. 32 55

Ashtabula, Ohio 13 60

Attica, Ind 26 45

Aurora, III 2655

Atchison, K. T 47 70

Austin, Minn 39 75

BulTalo, N. Y g 45

Batavia, N. Y.. 8 55

Bellefontaine, Ohio 19 95

Beloft, Wis 28 45

Berlin, Wis 31 70

Beaver Dam, Wis 30 35

Bloomington, 111 30 60

Brqoklyn, Iowa 37 10

Burlington, Iowa 3295

Boone, Iowa 39 80

Baton Rou.t;e,via Steamer 63 00

Canandaigua, N. Y 7 75

Canton, Miss 53 75

Cayuga, N. Y 8 50

Caledonia, N. Y 8 05

Cairo, 111 36 40

Cedar Falls, Iowa 37 5°

Cedar Rapids, Iowa 34 35

Chariton, Iowa 39 45

Chattanooga, Tenn 37 00

Cheyenne 98 45

Chicago, 111 24 95

Chicago, via Buff. & Stm. 2a 45

Cincinnati, Ohio 22 40

Clarksville, Tenn 34 4°

Cleveland, Ohio. 14 95

Clyde, Ohio 17 40

Columbus, Ohio 19 45

Columbus, Pa. i < 55

Columbus, Miss.... 48 15

Copper Harbor, Mich., v.

Steamer

Corinth, Miss 40 75

Corry, Pa. 11 70

Crestline, Ohio 17 60

Council Bluffs, Iowa.... 46 45

ist Class.

Dunkirk, N. Y ;^io 70

Dayton, Ohio 21 50

Danville, 111 27 55

Decatur, 111 3° 45

Decatur, Ala.. 37 75

Delaware, (Jhio 18 95

Detroit,' M ich «6 45

Detroit, via Steamer 16 45

Detroit, via Toledo iS 45

Denver, Colorado, 123 45

Des Moines, low.i, 40 25

Dixon, 111 28 85

Dunleith, 111 3290

Dubuque, Iowa 33 00

Eagle Harbor, Mich, via Stm

Eagle River, Mich., via

Steamer

East- Saginaw, Mich 19 95

Eddyville, Iowa 37 45

Ellswort*^, Kansas 63 95

Evansville, Ind 33 00

Erie, Pa 12 20

Franklin, Pa 13 10

Franklin Mills, Ohio.... 14 85

Fairfield, Iowa 35 50

Fairbault, Minn 42 15

Flint, Mich 18 85

Fond du Lac, Wis 37 20

Forest, Ohio 19 00

Fort Hayes, Kansas 69 45

Fort Riley, Kansas. .,,.. 56 95

Fort Wayne, Ind 21 25

Freeport, 111 29 80

Fulton, 111 30 40

Geneva, N. Y 7 25

Girard, Pa 12 75

Galena, III 32 25

Galesburg, 111 31 55

Galion, Ohio 17 75

Grenada, Miss 48 50

Grand Junction, Tenn. . . 42 50

Grand Rapids, Mich 21 65

Grand Haven, Mich 22 60

Green Bay, Wis 33 70

Greenville,. Pa '3 95

Hamilton, Ohio 22 00

Hannibal, Mo 35 45

Hastings & Prescott,Min. 42 20
Helena, Ark., via Steam. 48 25

Holly Springs, Miss 44 00

Horicon, Wis 29 95

Humboldt, Tenn 40 25

RATES OP PARE.

1st Cla^s.

Huntsvillc, Ala f;^^ 50

Ithaca, N. Y '7 50

Independence, Iowa 36 00

Indianapolis, Iiul 2$ 00

Iowa City, Iowa 34^°

Jamestown, N. Y 10 75

JeflFerson, N. Y 723

] amestown, Pa »4 35

] ackson, Mich 1880

. ackson, Miss 55 00

, ackson, Tenn 40 25

] acksonville. 111 33 35

, anesville. Wis 28 45

. efferson City, Mo 4243

, effersonville, Ind 26 65

, unction City, Kansas. . . 57 20

ulesburc, Colorado 84 70

Joliet, 111. 26 75

Kennedy, N. Y 10 50

Kalamazoo, Mich 20 80

Kenosha, Wis 26 75

Keokuk, Iowa 34 95

Kansas City, Mo 4(> 95

Kilbourn City, Wis 32 45

Kingston, C. VV

La Pointe, Wis., via Steamer . . . .

Le Roy, N. Y 8 25

Lewiston, N. Y. 9 90

Loudonville, Ohio 17 10

London, C. W »4 7°

La Crosse, Wis 35 95

Lafayette, Ind 25 60

Laporte, Ind. 22 95

Lake Pepin, Minn 40 95

Lansing, Iowa 35 95

Lansing, Mich 20 20

La Salle, 111 28 95

Lawrence, Kansas 49 7°

Leavenworth, Kansas... 48 30

Lexington^ Ky 26 40

Lima, Ohio 19 80

Little Rock, via Steamer, 63 25

Logansport, Ind.. 24 15

Louisville, Ky., via Cin.

& River 26 90

Louisville, Ky., viaR. R. 26 90

Macon, Ga — 49 00

Macon, Miss.... .. .. 4860

Madison, Ind., via Rail &

Steamer 25 40

Madison, Wis 3° 05

Manchester, Iowa ; . 35 10

Mansfield, Ohio 17 35

Marengo, Iowa 36 20

Marion, Ohio i8 50

iBt Claw.

Marshall, Mich $i<) 75

Marquette, Mich., v. St

Mnssillon, Ohio 15 75

Mattoon, 111 30 20

Mayville, N. Y 1 1 40

Meadville, Pa 1300

Mendota, 111 28 35

Meridian, Miss 52 40

Michigan City, Ind 24 95

Milwaukee, via Chicago, 27 95
Milwaukee, V. I>. & M.R. 24 95
Milwaukee, Wis. IJuff. &

Steamer... 22 45

Millersburg, Ohio 16 45

Mineral Point, Wis 32 50

Minnesota Junction, Wis. 29 95

Minneapolis, Minn 4295

Mobile, Ala 56 50

Monroe, Mich »7 95

Montgomery, Ala 55 00

Montreal, C. E

Mount Pleasant, Iowa... 34 35
Mount Vernon, Ohio. ... 18 80

Muscatine, Iowa 34 05

Memph's Tenn., v. Rail, 44 25
Memphis, via Steamer. . . 44 25

Niagara Falls, N. Y 9 45

Naples, 111 33 8s

Nashville, via Rail & St. "t 40
Natchez, Miss., via Rail. 50
Natchez, Miss,, via Stm., 00 50
Napoleon, Ark., via Stm. 52 2^
North-Platte, Nebraska.. 75 95

Northfield, Minn 42 85

Neenah, Wis 32 30

Nebraska City, Neb 48 45

Nevada, Iowa 3^75

Newark, Ohio iS 95

New-Castle, Pa 15 45

New-Orleans, La., v. Rail 63 00
New-Orleans, v. Steamer 63 00

Oswego, N. Y 7 45

Ogdensburg, N. Y

Oil Springs, or Petrolia,

C. W 15 45

Oil City, Pa 13 10

Odin, 111 33 50

Omaha, Nebraska 46 95

Ontonagon, Mich., V. St

Orville, Ohio iS 90

Oshkosh, Wis 31 75

Ottawa, 111 28 35

Oskaloosa, Iowa 37 95

Ottumwa, Iowa 36 45

Oxford Miss 45 73

RATES OF FARE.

ist Class.

Owatonna, Minn $41 40

Painesville, Ohio 14 45

Pana, 111 31 75

Panama, N. Y. 11 20

Pittsburg, Pa 16 00

Paris, Tenn. 37 75

Paris, C. W 12 80

Penn Yan, N. Y 7 50

Peoria, 111 31 45

Peru, Ind 23 50

Pella, iowa 38 95

Piqua, Ohio 21 20

Port Sarnia, C. W „ iS 45

Portage Lake, Mich

Portage City, Wis. . . 31 75

Prairie du Chien, Wis. . . 33 95
Prescott& Hastings, Min. 42 20

Princeton, Hi 29 25

Quincy, 111 34 45

Rochester, N. Y 7 90

Racine, Wis 27 10

Randolph, N. Y 10 30

Ravenna, O. 14 35

Reed's Landing, Minn... 40 45

Red Wing, Minn 41 45

Richmond, Ind., •. .. 22 90

Rockford, 111 28 65

Pock Isbnd, 111 32 2^1

Rolla, Mo.. 41 80

Rome, Ga 42 25

Syracuse, N. Y 6 25

Salina, Kansas 60 95

Salt Lake City, Utah 238 45

Sandusky. Ohio .'.... 17 05

Sault Ste. Marie, Mich.,

via Steamer

Selma, Ala 53 40

Shaffer's Farm, Pa 1295

Sharon, Pa 14 65

Shelby, Ohio 17 30

Sidney, Ohio ... 20 75

Sioux City, Iowa 49 95

1st Class.

Sparta, Wis $34 95

Springfield, Ohio 20 70

Springfield, 111 31 95

Stephens's Point, Wis. . . 35 70

Ste .--nson, Ala 36 50

St. Charles, Mo 37 00

St. Joseph, Mo 45 95

St. Louis, Mo 36 00

St. Paul, Minn., v. Rail. 42 95

St. Paul, Minn.; v. Stm . 42 95
Superior City, Wis.j via

Steamer

Terre Haute, Ind 28 00

Tiffin, Ohio 18 05

Titusville, Pa 12 70

Toledo, Ohio 17 95

Tolono, 111 29 CO

Topeka, K. T 51 70

Toronto, C. W n 95

Urbana, Ohio 20 25

Vicksburg, Miss., via Rail. . . 58 00

Vjcksburg, via Steamer... 5800

Vincennes,. Ind 30 75

Williamsport, Pa 7 40

Westfield, N. Y 11 20

Warren, Ohio 14 35

Warren, Pa 12 70

Wabash, I«d.. ; 22 95

Wamego, Kansas 54 45

Washington, Iowa 35 75

Watertown, Wi.s 29 70

Waupun, Wis 30 60

Waukegan, 111 26 20

Weston, Mo 48 20

Whitewater, Wis 29 30

White River, Ark., via

Steamer 52 25

Winona, Minn 38 45

V/ooster, Ohio 16 30

Xenia, Ohio 21 15

Youngstown, Ohio 15 00

Zanesville, Ohio 19 15

First Class includes Berths only on Steamers plying between Grand
Haven and Milwaukee, and both Meals and BertJis on other Lake and
River Steamers, except Lake Ontario. .

RATES OF FAKE.

BATES OF FARE VIA GREAT SOUTHERN MAIL ROUTE,

FROM NEW-YORK TO

Atlanta, Ga. $37 iS

Augusta, Ga 3^ oo

Bristol, Tenn 24 85

Charlottesville 14 10

Covington 18 95

Corinth, Miss 36 25

Chattanooga, Tenn 32 00

Columbus, Ga 44 00

Columbus, Miss 48 15

Canton, Miss * 48 5°

Dalton, Ga 32 00

Decatur, Ala 34 5°

Goshen 17 3°

Gordonsville, Va 13 iS

Granada, Miss 43 5°

Grand Junction, Tenn 37 25

Huntsville, Ala 34 0°

Holly Springs, Miss 38 75

Jackson, Miss $49 75

Knoxville, Tenn 3^" 5°

Lynchburg, Va 16 65

Millborough 17 65

Mobile, Ala 5° 5°

Macon, Ga 40 00

Montgomery, Ala 47 0°

Meridian, Miss 46 4°

Memphis, Tenn 38 25

Nashville, Tenn 34 00

New-Orleans, La 53 00

Rome, Ga 35 25

Richmond, Va 1500

Staunton, Va 15 85

Selma, Ala 46 00

Vicksburc, Miss 5^ 75

West-Pomt, Ga 42 iS

THROUOH TRAINS.

Leave New- York 7.30 p.m.

" Washington 5.50 a.m.

" Lynchburg 4.55 p.m.

" Bristol ..7.10A.M.

" Knoxville 2.56 P.M.

" Dalton 7.20 P.M.

Leave Chattanooga. 9.45 p.m.

" Grand Junction 3.25 P.M.

Arrive at Memphis 6.00 p.m.

" Nashville 3.30 a.m.

" New-Orleans — 5.35 p.m.

BOOKS QUOTED.

Appleton's Hand-Book of Northern Travel.

The Canadian Hand-Book and Tourist's Guide. '

Heriot's Travels in Canada.

J. Starr King's White Hills.

Rockwell's Catskill Mcuatains.

Burt's Connecticut River Guide.

Henry Ward Beecher's Star Papers.

Nelson's Lake Champlain.

Howe's Gazetteer of New-York State.

Lippincott's Universal Gazetteer.

Lossing's Book of the Hudson.

Moorman's Mhieral Waters of the United States and Canada.

Walling's Route and City Guides.

Harper's Magazine, 1858.

New-York Tribune, 1865.

New-York Gazette, 1867.

Ithaca and its Scenery.

The Falls of Taughannock.

Sweet's Woods and Waters.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

A.— Seaside.

B,— Springs and Falls.

C— Lakes, Rivers, and Mountains.

U,— Dominion of Canada.

In looHng for a place, all the pages given should be re-
ferred to, as the first is not always the most important.

• %•

Anthony's Nose, Mountain, N. Y.,

Albany, N. Y., c 17, 138.
Alleghany River, c 30.
Attica, N. Y., c 33.
Avon, N. Y., & 25.
Adirondacks, c 37.
Au Sable Chasm, c 42.
Amherst, Mass., c 48.
Alstead, N. 11., <;53.
Ascutney Mountain, N. H., c 54.
Androscoggin River, c 61.
Androsco^in Lakes, c 165.
Alton, N. H., c 61.
Andover, N. H., c 63.
Allentown, Pa., c 89.
Altoona, Pa., c 89.
Alton, 111., c 116-118. .
Athens, N. Y., c 127.
Auburn, N. Y., c 136.
Adams, Mass., c 176.
Agawam River, Mass., c 176, 177.
Annamessex, N. C.,c 180.
AsheviUe, N. C, c 181.
Aylmer, <^ 51.
Arnprior, d 51.
Alumette Lakes, (i 52.
Amherst, d 59.
Alburg Spring, Vt., & 32, 33.
Alexandria Bay, d 14, 15.

Bergen Tunnel, N. J., c 23.
BoiUng Spring, N. J., c 23.
Blue Ridge, c 26,
Binghamton, N. Y., c 80.
Buffalo, N. Y., c 33, 34, 140.
Blood's, N. Y., c 35.
Batavia, N. Y., c 36, 140.
Burlington, Vt., c 38, 56, 195.
Booneville, N. Y., c 39, 41.
Black River, N.Y.,c 40.
Bellows Falls, Vt., c 45, 53.
Brattleboro, N. H., o52.
Bolton Falls, Vt., c 55.
Bradford, Vt., c 56.
Burke Mountain, c 58. *

Barton Landing, Vt., o 58. . •
Blandford, Mass., c 60.
Bethlehem, N. H., c 71.
Bennington, Vt., c 93, 95, 172.
Brandon, Vt., c 100.
Barton, Vt., c 103.
Bristol, R. L, a 15.
Buttermilk Falls, N. Y., c 10.
Bethlehem, Pa., c 88.
Belden's Falls, Vt. , c 99.
Byron, N. Y., c 140. ^

Branford, Ct., a 22.
Bergen Point, N. J., a 33, 37.
Berkshire, Mass., c 168, 173.
Bridgeport, Ct. , c 169. - •

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

BaBh-Blsh Fall, Ct., c 171.
Boncombe, N. C, <? 182.
Black Mountain, N. C, c 182.
Burke, N. C, c 182.
Broad River, N. C, c 182.
Buckingham, d 48.
Brockport, c 141.
Budd's Lake, N. J., c 148.
Bute Mountain Gap, N. C, c 183.
Ball's Cave, N. Y., c 188.
Bolton, c 203.
Ballston Spa, N. Y., ft 29.
Bath Alum Springs, Ya., b 49
Belfast, Me., a 55.
Bedford Springs, Pa., h 37.
Burner's Springs, Va., b 51.
Berkley Springs, Va., b 51.
Blue Lick Springs of Kentucky,

6 53.
Baker's Falls, N. Y., 6 82.

Croton Point, N. Y., <? 7.
Croton River, N. Y., c 7.
Cold Spring, N. Y. c 9, 11.
Cro' Nest, N. Y., c 10.
Cornwall, N. Y., c 11.
Clermont, N. Y., c 15.
Catskills, c 15, 18-23.
Castleton Bar, c 15, 16.
Coxsackie, N. Y., c 16, 127.
Cascade (Erie) Bridge, c 29.
Corning, N. Y., c 30.
Canandaigua Lake, N. Y., c 35.
Conesus Lake, N. Y., c 36.
Caledonia, (Trout,) c 35.
Clinton County, N. Y., c 37
Chateaugay Woods, c 37.
Crown Point, N.Y.,c 37.
Carthage, N. Y., c 39.
Cape Trembleau, N. Y., c 39.
Connc'^.ticut Valley, c 44; Great

Falls, c 53, 59, 61, 64. .
Chicopee, Mass., c 48.
Camel's Hump, Vt., c 56.
Caves : Devil's Den, Vt., c 57.
Coventry, Vt., c 59.
Charlestown, N. H., c 59.
ChesterjMass., c 60.
Ce: tre Harbor, N. H., c 61, 63,

64.
Coal Mines, Pa., c 80.
Carlisle, Pa., c 90.
Chambersburg, Pa., c 90.
Clarendon Springs, Vt., c 99.
Charleston, Vt., c 103.

Clyde River, (Plunket Falls,) c
103.

Copper Harbor, Mich., c 110.

Cahokia, 111., c 114.

Crow Wing, c 122.

Coeymans. N. Y., c 127.

Clinton, N. Y., c 131.

Chittenango, N.Y., c 132; b 23,
27

Clyde, N. Y., c 134.

Chili, N.Y.,<; 135, 140.

Cayuga, N. Y., c 137.

Clifton, N. Y., c 138 ; 6 23, 24.

Canandaigua, N. Y., o 138.

Charlotte, N. Y., c 140.

Cherry Valley, N. Y., 6 23, 28.

Cooperstown, N. Y., 6 24.

Canader^ua (Schuyler's) Lake,
5 24 ; c 210.

Canaan, Ct., c 170, 171.

Cummington, Mass., c 176.

Chimney Rock and Falls, N. C.
cl82.

Chicoutimi, d 39-42.

Calvary Mountain, d 46.

Carillon, d 46.

Chaudi^re Falls, Ottawa, d *^.

Chats Falls, d 50.

Camden, Me., a 55.

Caldwell, N. Y., c 198, 203, 204.

Chautauqua Lake, N. Y., c 209.

CajTiga Lake, N. Y., c 215.

Croton Lake, N. Y., c 223.

Crooked Lake, N. Y., c 225.

Coney Island, a 38.

Coney Island Plank Road, a 40.

Cape May, a 40-43.

Chelsea Beach, Mass., a 50.

Cape Neddick, Me., a 51.

Cushing's Island, Portland Har-
bor, a 53.

Cape Elizabeth, Me., a 54.

Castine, Me., a 55.

Cusson Spring, Pa., b 34, 35.

Carlyle Springs, Pa., b 36.

Cold Sulphur Springs, Va., b 50.

Chippewa, N. Y., 6 76.

Cobourg, d 9.

Cape Vincent, d 10.

Clayton, rf 14.

Caughnawaga, d 20.

Caconna, ^31.

Cape Rozier. d 34.

Cape Trinity, d 40.

Cape Eternity, d 40.

Cuedonia Springs, d 68.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

• ••
111

Dobb's Ferry, c 6.
Dunderberg Mt., N. Y.. c 8.
Deposit, N. Y.,c28.
Delaware River, c 28, 29, 17T.
Dunkirk, N. Y., c 31.
Deerfield, Mass., c 51, B9.
Delaware Water Gap, 77.
Dead Lake, Wis., <; 124.
Deal, N. J., a 5.
Derby, Ct., c 154, 168.
Dnncannon, Pa., c 179.
Durham, N. C.^c 180.
Dominion of Canada, d 48.
Deux Joachim, d 51^ 62.
Dorchester, d 59.
Dover, N. J., cl47.
Daggar'B Springs, Va., b 50.

Englewood, N. J., c 5. •
Erie Railway, c 23-36, 178.
Elmira, N. Y., c 30.
Essex County, N Y., c 37.
East-Hampton, Mass., c 48.
Exeter, N. H.,<;63.
Easton, Pa., c 88.
Eagle Bridge, N. Y., c 93.
Equinox Mountain, Vt., c 96, 97.
Elgin Springs, Vt., c 99.
Erie Canal, c 125, 126.
Eatontown, N. J., o 6.
East-Lyme, Ct., a 26.
East-Hampton, L. I., a 32.
Egremont, Mass., c 172.
Eastern Provinces, d 56.
Eastport, Me., a 60.

Fort Washington, N. Y. City, c 8.
Fort Lee, N. J., c 5.
Font Hill. N. Y., c 6.
Fishkill, N. Y., c 11.
Franklin County, N. Y., c 37.
Fort Edward, N. Yy c 39.
Fall Mountain, N. H., c 53.
Franconia Mountains, c 61, 62.
Fort Brady, Mich., c 106.
Fort Snelling, c 121.
Falls of Minnehaha, c 121.
Fonda, N. Y., c 129.
Fort Plain, N. Y., c 130.
Fall River, R.L, a 18.
Fairfield, Ct., a 19.
Falls Village, Ct., c 171.
Fortress Monroe, c 180.
French Broad River, N. C, c 182.
French River, d 44.
Fire Island, L. I., a 44.

Greensburg, N. Y., <? 6.
Garrison's, N. Y., c 10.
Greenwood Lake, N. Y., c 25.
Greycourt, N. Y., c 25.
Goshen, N. Y., <■ 20.
Genesee River, c 30, 31.
Gainesville, N.Y.,c 33.
Glenn's Falls, N. Y., c 39, 204, 205.
Greenfield, Mass., c 51.
Gorham, N. H., c 61, 6,3.
Girardville, Pa.,c83, 84.
Gettysburg, c 90.
Greylock Mountain, Mass., c 92,

93, 176.
GrosCap.O. P.,cl08.
Goular's Bay and Point, c 108.
Geneva, N. Y., c 137.
Genesee River, c 140.
Groton, Ct., a 28.
Guilford, Ct., a 21.
Great Barrington, Mass., c 172.
Georgian Bay, B. N. A., c? 44.
Grenville.O. V.,dA%.
Gatineau River, d 48.
Gas Port, N. Y., c 141.
Grand Lakes, M., c 166.
Gettysburg Spring, Pa., h 38, 39.
Genesee Falls, N. Y., 6 61.
Grand Island, Niagara, b 75.

Hudson River, c 1-18.
Harlem Railway, c 1-18,
Harlem River, c 3, 4.
Haverstraw, N. Y., c8. %
lludson, N. Y., c 15.
Hackensack River, N. J., c 7, 23.
Hornellsville, N. Y., c 30.
Hemlock Lake, N. Y., c 35.
Hamilton County, N. Y., c 37.
Herkimer County, N. Y., c 37, 41.
Hartford, Ct., c 44, 47.
Holyoke, Mass., c 48.
Hatfield, Mass., c 51.
Hoosick Tunnel, c 51, 92.
Hanover, N. H., c 56, 59.
Haverhill, N. H., c 59.
Harrisburg, Pa., c 88, 89.
Huntingdon, Pa^ c 89, 179, 180.
HoUidaysburg, Pa., c 89.
Hoflfman's, N. Y., c 129.
Hydesville, N. Y., c 134. ^ •
Highlands of Navesink, a 8.
Hunt's Mill, R. I., a 16.
Housatonic Valley, Mass., c 167.
Housatonic River, c 168.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

;

Hinsdale, Mass., c 177.

High Point, N. C, c 181.

Hawkesburg, d 46.

Halifax, d 59.

HoUey, c 141.

Highlands of New- Jersey, c 146.

Howe's Cave, Schoharie Co., N.

Y., c 188.
Hampton Beach, N. H., a 50.
Highgate Spring, Vt., h 82.
Hot Springs, Va., b 48.
Healing Springs, Va., b 49.

Irvington, N. Y., c 6, 7.
lona Island, N. Y., c 9.
Indian Reservation, N. Y., c 80,

IM.
Iroquois Point, Mich., c 108.
Illinois Town. 111., c 115.
Iron Mountains of Missouri, c

118.
Indian Point, Ct., a 22.
Indian Neck Ct., a 26.
Isle of Shoals, N. H., a 68.
Ithaca, N. Y., c 219.

Jeflft-ey's Hook, Hudson River,

c8.
John Brown's Tract, c 87.
Juniata Valley, c 89, 179.
Johnstown, N. Y., c 129.

Kingshridge, N. Y., c 4.
Kidd's Plug Cliff, N. Y., c 10.
Kin^rhook, N. Y., c 17.
Kirkwood, N. Y., c 80.
Keeseville, N. Y., c 37, 88, 42.
Kittatinny Mountain, c 77, 78.
Killington Peak, Vt., c 98.
Keweenaw Point, Mich., c 110.
Kingston, R. I., a 81.
Kent, Ct., c 169.

Lake Mohegan, N. Y., c 9, 206,

207,208.
Lake Mahopac, N. Y., c 9.
Lanesborough, N. Y., c 29.
Leroy, N. Y., c 85, 86.
Lake Erie, c 36.
Lewis County, N. Y., c 37.
Lake Pleasant, N. Y., c 37.
Lake George, (Horicon,) c 39, 107.
Little Falls, N.Y.,c 39.
Long Island Sound, c 44.
Lake Memphremagog, c 45.
Lake Umbagog, Vt., c 58, 165.

Lancaster, Mass., c 68.

Lake Winnipiseogee, c 61, 62, 68.

Littleton, N. H., c 62, 64.

Lancaster, N. H., c 71.

Lehigh River, c 80.

Lewistown, Pa., c 89.

Lewisburg, Pa., c89.

Lock Haven, c 90.

Lake Bombazine, Vt., c 98. .

Lake Austin, Vt., c 98.

Lake Cnstleton, Vt., c 99.

Lake Dunmore, Vt., c 99. ^

Lake Superici*, c 104, 111.

Lake St. Clair, c 105.

Lake Huron, c 105 : <2 44.

La Crosse, Wis., c 120.

Lake Mendota, Wis., c 123.

Little Falls, N. Y., c 130.

Long Branch, N. J., a 1.

La Tourette House, Bergen Point,

N. J., a 33.
Lake Lovely, Saratoga, N.Y., b 18.
Lake Luzerne, N. Y., 6 19; o 220,

221.

Lebanon Springs, N. Y., 6 22.

Litchfield, Ct., c 170.

Lenox, Mafcs., c 174.

Lee, Mass., c 175.

Little Juniuta River, Pa., o 180.

Lake Temiscaming, d 43.

Lake Nipissing, d 44.

La Chine, d 44.

Lake of the Two Mountains, d
45 .

L'Original, <? 47.
Lake Saint Mary's, d 48.
Lake Matawan, c? 51. '. / •

Lor'kport, N. "i., c 141.
Lake Hopatcong, N. J., c 148,149.
Lakes of New- York, c 190.
Lake Champlain, c 191-196.
Lake Wacabac, N. Y., c 209.
Lake Mohensick, N. Y., c 220.
Lake Ontario, d 2.
Lewiston, d4. , . ;

Long Sault, d 18, 19.
Lake Saint Peter, d 27.
List of Salmon and Trout Rivers,
d 70, 71.

.• . . - ' ■ ■ ■■•

Maiden, N. Y., c 15. • .
Monroe, N. Y., c 25.
Middletown, N. Y., c 26. »

Monticello, N. Y., c26. '

Mount Marcy, N. i . , c 40.
Mount Mclntyre, N. Y., c 40.

I ^

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

Monnt Sanantoni, N. T., c 40.
Mount Golden, N. Y., c 40.
Mount Seward, N. Y., c 40.
Mount Whlteface, N. Y., c 40.
Moose Mountain, N. Y., c ^.
Moose River, N. Y., c 40.
Montreal Route, c M.
Magog, c 47.
Mount Mansfield, c 47, 65, 56, 155,

156.
Mount Tom, Mass., c 48,
Mount Holyoke, Mass., c 48, 49,

50.
Monadnock Mountain, c 51.
Mount Kilbum, N. H., c 53.
Montpelier, Vt. c 55.
Mount Pulaski, Vt., c 57.
Memphremagog, c59, 153, 159, 160,

161.
Mount Washington, c 61, 73-77.
Merrimack River, c 61, 64.
Mifflintown, Pa., c 89.
Milton, Pa., c 89.
Mount Anthony, Vt., c95.
Manchester, Vt., c 95, 96.
Mount Dorset, Vt., c 95.
Mid41ebury, Vt., c 99.
Moosilauke Mountain, N.H., clOO.
Mount Hor, Vt., c 102.
Mississippi River, c 104, 114r-118,

121.
Munising, Mich., c 109.
Marquette, Mich., c 110.
Mound City, (Saint Louis,) c 114.
Minnesota, c 120.
Madison, Wis., c 122.
Minneapolis, c 121, 122.
Mohawk River, c 126.
Manlius, N. Y., c 131, 132."
Manchester, N. Y., (Mormon,) c

183.
Marked Rock, R. I., a 15.
Mount Hope, R. I., a 15, 18.
Medford, L. I., a 32.
Mineral Springs of N. Y., b 1.
Massena Springs, N. Y., 6 23, 25.
Moosehead Lake, Me., c 164, 167.
Mount Katahdin, Me., c 166, 167.
Morgantown, N. C.^c 181.
McDowell, N. C, c 182.
Montreal, d 43.
Madawaska River, d 51.
Montmorenci, Falls of, d 55.
Moncton, d 58.
Maine Coast, a 54.
Mount Desert Island, Me., a 56.

Martha's Vineyard, a 68, 69.
Medina, N. Y., c 141.
Morristown, N. J-i c 147.
Ma^ne Forest, c 168.
Mammoth Cave, Ky., c 185.
Moreau, c 204.
Mount Desert Island, a 56.
Missisquoi Springs, Vt., b 30, 81.
Morristown, d 15.
Montreal, d 20-26.
Murray Bay, d 30.
Metis, d 83.

Newport, Vt., c 160, 162.

Niagara Falls, N. Y., 6 63-74.

Northern Rail.vay of New- Jer-
sey, c 1-18.

New-York City, c 2-4.

Neutral Ground, c 4.

Neperah River, N. Y., c 5.

Nyack on the Hudson, c 7.

Newburg, N. Y., c 9, 11, 12, 25.

New-Hamburg, N. Y., c 12.

Neversink, N. Y., c 27, 28.

Narrowsburg, N. Y., c 29.

Niagara River, c 36 ; ft 74-81.

New-Haven, Ct., c 44.

Northampton, Mass., c 49-61, 58.

Newbury Springs, Vt., c57.

Northern New- Hampshire, c 61.

North-Conway, N. H., c 63, 64.

Northumberland, N. H., c 71.

Northumberland, Pa., c 89, 178.

New- York Central Railway, c 125

Newark, N.Y.,c 134.

Navesink River, a 6, 8.

Nauvoo, N. J., a 7.

Newport, R. I., a 9.

Narraganset Bay, a 18.

Niantlc, Ct., a 26.

New-London, Ct., a 26.

Narraganset Pier, R. I., a 30.

Narrows, N. Y. Bay, a 35.

Newtown, Ct., c 167.

Naugatuck River and Road, Ct.,
c 168.

New-Mllford, Ct., <;169.

North-Adams, Mass., c 176, 177.

Nanticoke, Pa., c 145, 178, 179.

North-Cp.rolina, c 180.

Norfolk, Va., c 180.

North River, (Riviere du Nord.)
dm.

New-Brunswick, d 48.

Nova-Scotia, d 43.

New-Hampshire Coast, a 61.

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

New-Bedford, Mass., a 65.
Nantucket, a 69, 70.
Nanticcke Falls, c 142.
Naugatuck, Ct., c 152.
Nahant, Mass., a 49.

Oskewanna Lake, N. Y., c 9, 208.
Orange County, N. Y., c 25.
Otisville, N. Y., c 27.
Owego, N. Y.,c30.
Clean, N.Y.,c 30.
Oneida County, N. Y., c 41.
Ogdensburg. N. Y., c 41, d 16.
Orford, N.H., c59.
Otter Creek, vt., c 98, 99.
Ontonagon, Mich., c 104.
Oneida, N. Y., c 131.
Onondaga, N. Y., c 133, 134.
Onondaga Lake, o 21, 24.
Oswego, N. Y., c 133, b 22.
Oceanville, N. J., a 6.
Otsego Lake, N. Y., 6 24, c 178.
Ottawa River, d 42.
Ottawa City, d 48.
.Osceola Lake, N. Y., c 208.
Owasco Lake, N. Y., c 226.
Oak Orchard Acid Springs, N. Y.,

6 27.
Ohio White Sulphur Springs, b 53.

Piermont Railway, c 1-18.
Palisades, c 5, 6, 23.
Piermont, N. J., c 6.
Pocanteco River, N. Y., c 7.
Peekskill,N. Y.,c8,9.
Poughkeepsie, c 13.
Paterson and Passaic Falls, N. J.,

c 24, 682.
Potague Lake, N. J. c 24.
Port Jervis, N. Y., c 28.
Portage Bridge, N. Y., c 31.
Platt9t)urg, N. Y., c 37,»40, 195,

d43.
Port Kent, N. Y., c 37, 42, 193.
Potsdam, N. Y., c 40.
Prospect, N. Y., c 41.
Perciefield Falls, c 43.
Passumpsic River, c 58.
Pemigewasset River, c6l, 64.
PljTnouth, N. H., c 62, 64.
Pottsville, Pa., c 8U 82.
Pennsylvania Coal Region, c 80.
Port Carbon Landing, Pa., c 8%
Poultney, Vt., c 97.
Peach Lake, N. Y., c 209.
Penobscot River, a 56.

Port Hope, d 8.

Presque Isle Bay, d 9.

Prescott, 0? 17.

Point Cardinal, d 18. '

Parisien Is., c 108.

Pictured Rocks, c 100.

Pilot Knob, c 119.

Palatine Bridge, N. Y., c 130.

Palmyra, N.Y.,c 135.

Pleasure Bay, N. J., o 6.

Providence, R. I., a 15.

Portsmouth Grove, R. I., a 16.

Patchogue, L. I., a 32.

Perth Amboy, N. J., a 35.

Pittsfield, Mass., c 168, 175.

Plainfleld, Mass., c 176.

Pennsylvania, c 177.

Pilot Mountain, N. C, c 181.

Pisgah, N. C, c 182.

Polk, N. C, c 182.

Point Fortune, c? 46. '

Pemachnnga Lake, d 48.

Prince Edward's Island, d 48.

Provinces of Canada, d 48.

Pembroke, d 51, 62.

Portsmouth, N. H., a 61.

Quebec, c 44, <? 52.

Quarantine, New- York City, a 35.

Rockland Lake, c 7.
Rondout, N. Y., c 14.
Rhinebeck, N. Y., c 14.
Ramapo River, N. J., c 24.
Reservation, Indian, N. Y., c 80
Racket Lake, N. Y., c 37, 41, 43.
Rouse's Point, N. Y., c 37, 196.
Reading, Pa., c 89.
Rutland and Burlington Railway,

c93.
Rutland, Vt., c 98.
Richfield Springs, N. Y., c 130, b

23 24.
Rome, N. Y., c 131.
Rochester, N. Y., c 138.
Red Bank, N. J., « 9.
Rocky Point, R. I., a 15, 28.
Rhode Island, R. I., a 18.
Raleigh, N. C, c 180.
Rutherford County, N. C, c 182.
Riviere du Nord, (North River.)

d 46.
Rivi^rr; du Lievre, <? 48.
River Gatineau, <? 48.
Rideau River, d 40.
River Madawasl a, d 51.

S^"5i

n'iTT- ri iiiiiii

ALPnABKTICAL INDEX.

Vll

Rye, N. H., a 64.
River Isoul, c 190.
Rockaway Beach, L. I., rt 43.
Red Sulphur Springs, Va., b 47.
Rockbridge Alum Springs, Va.,

6 49.
Rockbridge Baths, Va., h 50.
Rawley's Springs. Va.. h 51.
River Saint Maurice, d 28.
Riviere du Loup, d 30.
Rimouski, d 33.

Spuyt den Duyvel Cre^k, c 4.
Sleepy Hollow, 1. Y., c 7, 20.
Sunnyside, N. Y., c7.
Sing Sing, N. Y., c 7.
Stony Point, N. Y., c 8.
Saugerties, N. Y., c 14.
Sullivan County, N. Y., c 26.
Shawangunk Ridge, N. Y., c 2T.
Susquehanna River, c 29, 89, 177,

179.
Starucca (Erie) Viaduct, c 29.
Salamanca, N. Y., c 80,
Saint Lawrence County, N. Y.,

c37.
Saranac Region, N. Y., c 37, 43.
Saint Regis Woods, c 37.
Saratoga Springs, c 39.
Springfield, Mass., c 44, 47, 60.
Stowe, Vt.,c47, 55. 56.
Sugar-Loaf Mountain, Mass., c51.
Saint Alban'^ Vt., c 56.
Saint Johnsbury, Vt., c 58.
Saco River, c 61, 63, 64.
Stratford, Ct., a 19, c 168.
Savin Rock, Ct., a 21.
Sachem's Head, Ct., a 23.
Stonington, Ct., a 28.
South-Kingston, R. I., a 30.
Sag Harbor, L. \'a 32.
Staten Island, N. Y., a 35.
Saratoga Sprinais, h 1.
South-Argyle, N. Y., & 13.
Saratoga Lake, h 13, 17.
Shaker Community, N. Y., 6 22.
Sharon, N.Y., 6 23.
Stockport, N. Y., 6 23.
Schuyler's (Canaderaja) Lake,6 24.
Sharon, Ct., c 170.
Salisbury, Ct., c 170, 171, 172.
South-Egremont, Mass., c 172.
.Stockbridge, Mass., c 172, 173.
Saddle-Back Mountain, Mass., c

176.
Shickshinny, Pa., c 178, 179.

Salem, N. C.,<? 181.
Statesville, N. C, c 181.
Salt Sulphur Springs, Va., ft 46.
Sweet Springs, Va., h 48.
Stribling's Sprinjjs, Va.. 6 51.
Shannondale Springs, Va., ft 51.
St. Lawrence River, d 1-35.
Sackett's Harbor, d 10.
Sas;uenay River, d 35-43.
Saint Leon Springs, d 69.
Saint Catherine Springs, d 68.
Steamboat Routes in Canada, d

71, 72.
Salisbury, N. C.,cl81.
Swannanoa River, N. C, cl83.
Sinville Falls, N. C, c 82.
Saint John's Bay, d 42.
Sainte Anne, d 45.
Saint Eustache, d 46.
Saint Benoit, d 46.
Saint Scholastique, d 46.
Saint Andrew's, d 46.
Saint John, 58, 65.
Stamford, Ct., a 71, 72, 73.
Susquehanna River, c, 143.
Seneca wana Lake, N. Y., c 148.
Schooley's Mountain, N. J.,cl51.
Sebago Pond, Me., c 166.
Shoreham, N. Y., c 193.
Sabbath-Day Point, c 199.
Seneca Lake, N. Y., c 211.
Swampscott, Mass., a 45-48.
Salem, Mass, a 48.
Saco Pool, Me., a 53.
Sweet Chalybeate Springs,- Va.,

ft 44.
Schuylkill Region, c 81, 83.
Snnbury, Pa., c 89.
Saint Alban's, Vt., c 100.
Saint Paul, Minn., c. 104, 120, 121,

133.
Superior City, Mich., c 104, 110.
Saint Mary's River, Mich., c 105.
Sault Sainte Marie, c 105-103.
Saint Louis, c 111.
Shepherd Mountain, Mo., c 119.
Saint Croix, Wis., c 121.
Stillwater, Mich., c 131.
Saint Cloud, Minn., c 122.
Schenectady, N. Y., c 128.
Saint Johnsville, N. Y., c 130.
Syracuse, N. Y., c. 133, ft 21.
Savannah, N. Y., c 134.
Skaneateles, N. Y., c 136.
Seneca Falls, N. Y., c 137.
Shark River, N. J., a 5.

I I

vlii

ALPHABETICAL INDEX.

Shrewsbury and River, N. J., a

\ 6, 9.
Seekonk River, a 16.
Seeconnet, R. I., a 17.

Tappan Zee, c 5, 6.
Tappan VillageLN. Y., <; 6.
Tarrvtown, N. i., c 6, 7.
Tlvoli.N. Y. cl4.
Troy, N. Y., c 18, 138.
Tamer'B, N. J., c 24, 26.
Tahawus, c 40.
Trenton Falls, N. Y., c 41, 124,

181, b 54-60.
Tapper's Lake, N. Y., c 48.
Tonquamenon Bay, c 108.
Tribes' Hill, N. Y., c 129.
Tiverton, R. I., a 18.
Tottenville, N. Y., a 85.
Taconic Mountains, Mass. and N.

Y., c 168.
Tryon Mountain, N. C, c 182.
Tadoussac, d 31-33, 42.
Thurso, d 48,

Thirty-one-miles-long Lake, c7 48.
Timber-slides in Canada, d 50.
Taghkanic, N. Y., c 217-219.
Toronto, d8.

Ulster County, N. Y., c 26.
Utica, N. Y. c39,41, 130.
Umoagog Lake, Introduction.

Vernon, c 51.
Vergennes, Vt., c 99.
Verona, N. Y., c 131.
Vallonia Springs, N. Y., 6 29.
, Vermont Spring, b 32.
Virginia Springs, b 41.
Vanity Springs, Ya , 6 50.

Washington Heights, N. Y. City,

c2, 3.
West-Point, c 9, 10.
Walden, N. Y., c 26.
Warwick Woodlands, N. Y., c 26.
Warsaw, N.Y.,c 33.
Wethersfleld Springs, N.Y., c. 83.
Warren County, NT Y., c 87.

Westport, N. Y., c 88.

White Mountains, Routes, c 41,

45, 61-65.
White River Junction, Vt., c 45,

54, 55.
Waterbury, Vt., c 47.
Whately, Mass., c 51.
Windsor and Wethersfleld, N. H.,

c 54, 69.
Waterbury, Vt., c 55, 66.
Wells River, Vt., c 57.
Willoughby Lake, Vt., c 58, 101.
Walpole.N. H.,c59.
Weirs, N. H., c 61, 63.
Wolf borough, N. H., c 63.
Waumbeck House, N. H., c 72.
Williamsport, Pa., c 90.
Williamstown, Mass., c 91, 172.
Warren, N. H., c 100.
Westmore, Vt., c 101.
Winona, Minn., c 121.
Wisconsin, c 125.
Warren, R. I., a 15.
Winsted, Ct, c 171.
Westfleld River, Mass., c 176.
Wyoming Valley, c 142, 178.
Weldon. N. C, c 180.
White-Fish Lake, O. P., d 48.
Wolfville, d 67.
Westchester Mountain, d 67.
Windsor, d 68.
Wyoming Falls, c 142.
Wilkesbarre, Pa., cl46.
Winsted, Ct., c 163. ,
Waterbury, Ct., c 154.
Woodstock, Ct., c 165.
Winooski Valley, Vt., c 157, 158.
Whiteside Mountain, N. C, cl88.
Whitehall, N. Y., c 192
Watkins Glen, N. Y., c 211, 212.
Wells, Beach, Me^ a 51.
White Sulphur Springs, Va., ft

42,43.
Warm Springs, Va., ft 48.

Yonkers, N. Y., c 6.
Yellowstone River, c 116.
Yellow Springs, Va., ft 62.

MEMORANDA.

??"

MEMORANDA.

SALISBXTRY, VT.

The above House is now open for the reception of families
and tourists. Cars stop at Brandon, Vt., where coaches are
ready to convey passengers to the House.

GXSLSTonr house:,

Goodspeed's Landing,

Handsomely situated on the Connecticut river, easy of access by
Hartford Steamers from Peck Slip, at 4 o'clock p.m. daily, or by
railroad and steamboat, via Middleto^n or Hartford,

Sunday night boat to New-York this season.

House repainted, rooms large and airy, good table, and reason-
able prices ; no mosquitoes ; good riding, sailing, and fishing.

H. H. SQUIRES, Superintendent

GooDSPEBD^s Landing, Ct. For the Gelaton Motel Co

INTERNATIONAL HOTEL,

NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y.

2^ts Itorge and Elegant Hblet hag superior accotnmoiia-
iions for six hundred guests

It is the largest and most complete Summer Hotel in the
country. v

BOA.R,r> REDUCED.

J. T. PULTON, Proprietor.

SPRING HOUSE,

Vallonia Springs, Broome County, N. T,

JEROME B. SANDS, Proprietor,

These Springs have long been celebrated for their Pro-
phylactic and Medicinal properties. Being located in the
midst of wild and striking scenery, within one mile of the
far-famed valley of the beautiful Susquehanna, the forests
abounding with game and the streams filled with fish, they
present features of interest to a larger class of those seeking
a summer resort than any other of the many noted resorts
in the country. And while soliciting the patronage of those
in pursuit of health or pleasure, the Proprietor feels confi-
dent of his ability to give satisfaction to his guests.

Passengers leaving Albany by the morning train on the
Albany and Susquehanna Railroad connect with the stage
at Afton, and arrive at the Spring House in time for dinner.

mmim vatuv HotEtt

WILKESBARRE.
"WTATID & CO., Proprietors.

•♦•

This house, for beauty of situation, is unsurpassed in this
country, and has a combination of all the modern improve
ments found in city hotels. It is magnificently furnished
throughout, and has accommodation for 200 guests.

Spacious Balconies command a view of the charming
Valley of Wyoming, while the Susquehanna glides beneath,
and is visible for miles on either side. The Drives and op-
portunities for Sailing, Rowing, and Fishing are excellent,
and the Proprietors will spare nothing in order to make it
one of the most delightful, as well as fashionable, places of
resort in the country.

an(
Ish
foui

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Mil
resol

Plal
whi([
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^Om"F

PLATTSBURGH, N. Y.

Pro-

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tlie
rests
they
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jsorts
tTioso
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and op-
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aces of

This Hotel is particularly desirable for a Summer resort.
Situated, as it is, upon the banks of JLahe Chaniplain,
its broad piazzas offer beautiful views of Cumberland Bay —
celebrated as the scene of the Naval Engagement of 1814
— while from the promen?de on the roof a fine view can be
obtained, including the villagb, the surrounding country,
and, in the distance, the Green Mountains and the Adiron-
dacks ; which, together with the pure water, the beautiful
flower, pleasure, and croquet grounds, the pleasant drives,
the spacious and well-ventilated rooms, offer attractions to the
seeker after health and pleasure that can not be surpassed.

A new and spacious Liveiit-Stable will be opened in
connection with the Hotel on the first of June, which will
afibrd ample accommodations to persons wishing to bring
with them their horses and carriages.

A Steam-Ferry will make daily trips between Plattsburgh
and St. Albans Bay, passing between North and South Hero
Islands, touching at the best fishing localities there are to be
found on Lake Champlain.

Sportsmen en route for the Adirondacks will find private
conveyances at Plattsburgh to take them to Paul Smith's,
Milote Baker's, Martin's, Virgil Bartlett's, and other forest
resorts, n-t as low rates as are offered on any other route.

Early next autumn a Railroad will be completed from
Plattsburgh twenty miles, en route to the Adirondacks^
which will enable sportsmen to reach the hunting and
fishing localities of the Wilderness at much lower rates and
with greater facility than is now offered by any route.

Mf^

BALLSTON SPA, N. Y.

-♦♦♦-

G-EORaE SMITH Proprietor.

GEORGE BRIGGS, Assistant.

-♦♦-•-

This well-known and popular establishment has recently
been reopened to the public. No expense has been spared
to put it in fine order as a first-class Hotel. It will be found
complete in all its appointments, and it is designed to give
it superior attractions to the public generally.

Guests will find ample accommodations, cheerful enter-
tainment, and all desirable luxuries. Patronage is solicited,
and e\3ry effort will be made to merit it.

The Proprietor has had long experience as a landlord, and
flatters himself that he has not failed in giving satisfaction
to those who have temporarily made their home at the sev-
eral houses he has heretofore had in charge. Old friends and
acquaintances are cordially invited to call upon him at his
new location, where he hopes to render a sojourn pleasant
and delightful. New customers will also have every atten-
tion paid to their comfort and enjoyment. Try the Old Sans
Souci.

THE HOSFORD HOUSE,

Richfield Springs, N. Y.,

Now open for tho season, pleasantly situated between the
American and Spring Hotels, having been enlarged and
newly furnished, can accommodate about twenty additional
families. Accommodations and table first-class, and terms
reasonable. Address M. K. HOSFORD,

JtlcJifield Springs, JNT. T.

LA TOURETTE HOUSE,

Bcrg-en. I?oiiit:, !IV. J.

This delightful summer resort is now open for guests.
Its easy access to the city makes it peculiarly desirable for
persons doing business in New- York — distant only 30 min-
utes by Central Railroad of New-Jersey. Trains every hour,
and steamboats Bed Jacket, foot Liberty Sireet, and Thomas
P. Way, Barclay Street, four times daily. All the vegetables

used are raised on the farm attached.

J. G. ABMOVR.

AQUIDNECK HOUSE,

NEWPORT,

The above House is open for the season. Very desirable
Buites of rooms not yet engaged. Also, suites in cottages
near, with board at the Aquidneck. Apply as above to

WILLIAM HODGES.

;l)i ;•

UNITED STATES HOTEL,

Long Branch, N. J.,

HVXl^JLt OI»Xi:iV JUIVE 15, 1S08.

S. LAIRD, Ppoppietop.

WHITE LAKE,

Sullivan County, N. Y.,

Now open to receive guests. The house is new and newly

furnished.

N. «J. I*OTTS, Proprietor.

MAIVrSIOIV HOUSEy

Long Branch, JV* J.,

"WILL OPEN JUNE 1, 1868.
S. LAIRD, Proprietor.

Long Branchy N. J.,

OI^EISr JXJOVE IS, 1808.

COOPER & LAIRD, Proprietors.

WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS,

JVJEAB CARLISLE, PA.

-♦-♦^

Thi8 popular Summer Resort will bo opened for the recep-
tion of visitors on the First of June. The proprietor
takes pleasure in tendering his thanks to his numerous visit-
ors during the last, and respectfully solicits their patronage
and encouragement in the season approaching. Ho promises
his best efforts to make his guests happy and comfortable
during their sojourn with him.

These Springs are located in the county of Cumberland,
Pa., four miles from Carlisle. Carlisle may be reached
from all quarters by the Cumberland Valley llailroad, from
whence passengers will be conveyed to the Springs in Omni-
buses or Carriages, which will be in waiting on the arrival
of each train of cars, at reasonable charges.

The Springs are located at the base of the Blue Mountain,
in a fertile and beautiful valley. The buildings are large
and commodious, and admirably adapted to the comfort of
guests. They are being repaired and renovated thoroughly,
and will be in complete order by the period of the opening.

Through the valley are fine roads, affording pleasant
drives, or equestrian exercise, if that be preferred — Horses
and Carriages being always at the command of visitors. The
Canodoguinnet Creek, a fine stream of water, is within a few
miles of the Springs, and affords fine fishing for those in-
clined to that kind of sport.

The waters of the Springs possess peculiar healing quali-
ties, and many a weak, debilitated person has been restored
to health and vigor through their healing influence.

The public are cordially invited to visit the Springs during
the approaching season. Every eftbrt will be made to render
visitors comfortable and happv.

TERMS-$2.50 per Day, or $!0 per Week.

W. G. THOMPSON,

Of tJie State Capitol Hotel, Earrisburgh^

Proprietor,
j. p. harris, suterintendent.

■I I'

SE^SIDK; SEikSOIV OIT ISO®,

-•-•♦-

Watch Hill Point, Westerly, Rhode Island,

Situated on the Extreme South-Western Shore of the State^
Three Miles from Stonington, Ct.

-•♦•-

TnB Plimpton House will rcOpen for its Third Season about the
middle of Juno. This is a new House, built by the proprietors in
1866. The Location is on high ground, the Rooms arc large, airy, and
pleasant, and the Accommodations are flrat-class. The Beach is a very
fine one : the Bathing Beach is not surpassed on the coast, possessing
a fine surf, without undertow, and having nearly a hundred bathing-
houses— is within live minutes' walk of the Plimpton House.

Watch Hill Point, it is said by tourists, is the coolest place on
the New-England coast ; water-view to the east, south, and west, with
a fine, cool, exhilarating sea-breeze at all times. The Fishing-grounds
are within a few minutes' sail off the Point. Excellent boatmen are
ready at all times to take parties, large or small, for sailing on one of
the finest r "* bays for the purpose.

Parties from the West or South seeking the New-England seashore
will find this place the easiest of access, as this is the first place be-
tween New- York and Narragansett Bay where surf-bathing can be
found. Hallway routes from the North, South, East, and West connect
with the Shore Line Eailway, and by steamboats from New-York to
Stonington or New-London. Stop at Stonington and take steamers or
sailboats for Watch Hill— time thirty minutes— connecting with all
trains.

A. S. PLIMPTON & CO.

Tiimpion Mousey yVaich Sill Tointy H, 7*.

CO.

KEESEVILLE, N. Y.

• ••

Tnis House is now in first-class condition for the
Summer business of 1808. Tlie grounds have been
improved; desirable additions made to the furnituiv of
the establishment ; and, with spacious and aiuy ruous,
pleasant surroundings, and prompt attendance,

The Traveler Seeking Health or Pleasure

Avill find an agreeable and comfortable resting-place,
and the Season Boarder all the attractions that could
reasonably be desired.

The Drives in the immediate vicinity possess the
greatest attractions, the mountain and rural scenery
being unsurpassed by that of any locality in the State.

STAGES

Always in readiness at Port Kent, Lake Champlain,
to carry Passengers to this House.

PARTIES WISHING TO VISIT THE

GREAT CHASM OF THE AUSABLE,

THE SARANAC SPORTINQ GROUNDS, OR WHITE-FACE MOUNTAIN,

Will be furnished with appropriate conveyance on reasonable
terms. Ample accommodations for Private Carriages.

D. S. GUTTING, Proprietor.

; 1

SARATOGA.

$4.50 per day ; $28 per week ; $100 for four weeks.

Superior accommodations for families and gentlemen. Bag-
gage-master and omnibuses at Station on arrival of trains.
Address LELAND BROTHERS, or

s. x.Er.A.]>ri> &> CO.,

Metropolitar. Hotel, New-Tork.

COLUMBIA SPRINGS HOUSE,

):l.f

.¥.

I® i dli 9)

The water is white sulphur, universally regarded equal to
any in the State.
Fine air and beautiful grove.

C. B. NASH.

ill .

Will open for the Season June 15. •

The house has been refurnished in the most comfortable
style. Accommodations and table first class. Take New-
York Central trains from Albany to Palatine Bridge.

ANDREAS WILLMANN,

Proprietor,

WHITE MOUNTAINS.

iii

J. iM. TH:o3j:r»soiv & co..

PROPRIETORS.

COA.L HEaioisrs,

Scranton, Pa.

WIOMIIO

S. M. Iff ASH,

Proprietor.

DELAWARE WATER-GAP.

Kittatinny Honse.

PROPRIETOR. .
Room for 400 Guests.

i i

imimmivjnwjn

r^-.

A NEW HOTEL,

Edgetvater, Staten Island,

(First landing from foot of Broadway,) opens Wednesday, July
1st, on the European plan, with all the conveniences of a
city hotel. Communication with New-York every 30 min-
utes over the finest sail in the world. House five minutes'
walk from Tompkinsville landing. Carriages always in
attendance.

m'm

-,ii

§>

nVew-I^ochelle^

NEW- YORK,

Is now open for the season. Persons wishing to engage
rooms can make arrangements at the Clifibrd House, 1242
Broadway.

m/i

a^'^Vu.

t^fe:-:-i

STONINGTON, GT.

This House will be opened for the season about the 20th
of June, and will be conducted as a first-class family hotel.

Having all the advantages of BATHmG, Fishing, and
Sailing, with pleasant Drives and good Stabling, it is
one of the most attractive Summer Resorts on the coast.
Plans of the house can be seen" at the office of C. P. Dixox,
48 Pine Street, New- York. For further particulars apply to
ALVIN PEAVEY, Manager, Stonington, Ct.

MOUNT MANSFIELD HOTEL,

STOWE, VT.

i:.EOisrA.iir) love,

MANAGER.

J20tli

itel.
and
it is
joast.

lyto

This Hotel is situated at the beautiful village of Stowe,
Vt., 10 miles from Waterbury Station, on the Vermont Cen-
tral Railroad, from which six-horse coaches run, on the ar-
rival of the trains, to the Hotel ; time, 1^ hours. There is
also a telegraph to Stowe. The hotel is fitted in the

MOST MODERN STYLE,

TTITH GAS AND WATER ALL THBOUGn THE HOUSE.

Also bathing-rooms ; and will accommodate about four
hundred guests. There is also the Summit House, 7^ miles,
which is reached by stage, 6 miles, and saddle-horse, 1^
miles, when you will see the

MOST MAGNIFICENT VIEWS

that the eye ever beheld, giving a view of seventy miles of
Lake Champlain, and the Adirondack Mountains in New- York
State, and twenty distinct ranges of mountains in Vermont
State ; also fifty townships and villages ; and, in a clear
day, Mt. Washington can be seen with the naked eye, one
hundred miles distant.

There is a livery-stable of seventy-five horses connected
with this Hotel ; and there is no place in New-England that
will give so great a variety to the pleasure-seeker for scenery
and drives as at Mount Mansfield. And, to sum up in a
word, you "svill regret when you are obliged to leave ; and
will say the story of this beautiful place has never been half
published, for it is the place of all others.

CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

THIS FAVORITE SUMMER RESORT

IS l^OTW OFBIsT 3POI^ "VISITORS-

Stages will meet passengers at the Hudson River Railroad,
New- York and Albany Day Boats, and Steamer Thomas
Powell. The Thomas Powell leaves New- York, Tuesdays
and Thursdays, at 5 p.m., and Saturday at 2 p.m., foot of
Franklin Street, Pier 35. Returning, leaves Catskill on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 6 p.m.

^^^^^llf.W,fl|l

mMp

NEWBURGH, N. T.

TAes First' Class Mouse wilt he opened June 89th for

the Season ,

H. BLAKE, Proprietor.

CHA-RMIIIVG (STJBIMEIl IIETIII3A.T.

SMITHSONIAN HOUSE,

AT ]!VYA€K,

On the Hudson, 25 miles from New- York,

JLccessible by JBoats and Cars,

Is now open for the reception of permanent and transient
guests. Choice rooms can be secured by application on tiie
premises.

W. p. MUNROE, Proprietor.

is-

HldHOATE SPRINGS, VT.

• »»

GEORGE AVERILL,

Proprietor.

-«♦•-

for

This long established and popular resort for the Pleasure-
seeker and Invalid is now open for the reception of visitors.

Situated but a few rods from Lake Champlain, where the
fishing and shooting are unsurpassed in the State, with beau-
tiful drives in all directions, together wiih the well-known

Curative Properties of the Water

the Proprietor believes that visitors will find themselves
well repaid for a few days or weeks passed in this quiet
retreat.

Good Boats and experienced oarsmen in attendance at all
times. Carriages furnished at any time.

ALL CHARGES MODERATE.

The Vermont Central Railroad lands passengers at the

door.

GEO, AYERILL.

f 4f IB Sif 1

AND

MASSENA SPHINO,

On tJio Itaquctte Miver^ 8t, Zaivrence Co., If. T,

CROCKER & CO., Proprietors.

-•♦♦-

THE UNITED STATES HOTEL, with its Cottages, is beautifWly
located in close contiguity to the Springs, and will be found replete
with all things necessary for promoting the comfort and amusement of
the invalid or pleasure-seeker. Good Fishing, Gunning, Boating,
Riding, etc. Warm Baths of the Spring Waters. Terms Reasonable.

OXiOCItEIt «Sfc CO.,

JProprietors,

•»•

HOW TO GET TO THE MASSENA SPRING.

From New-York and the South.— The shortest and most direct
route : Take the 6.30 p.m. Express train on the Hudson River Railroad,
with sleeping-cars attached— purchasing tickets to Potsdam Junction
via N. Y. Central and Rome and Watertown Railroad. Another 'ery
delightful trip maybe arranged thus: Night boat on Hudson Rivt to
Albany, Railroad to Whitehall, Day boat on Lake Champlain, stopping
over night at Plattsburgh ; taking the cars next morning for Potsdam
Junction or Brasher Falls. At either place, carriages will be found in
waiting to convey passengers to the Spring.

From Niagara Falls, the West and South-West.— By New-
York Central and Rome and Watertown Railroad to Potsdam Junction,
or by Lake Ontario and St. Lawrence River Steamboats to Cornwall,
passing through the beautiful scenery of the Thousand Islands, and
running the Long Sault Rapids. Cornwall is connected with the
Spring Dy ferry.

From Canada.— By Grand Trunk Railroad, or Royal Mail Steamers
to Cornwall, from thence to the Spring by ferry.

From Boston "and the Eastern States.— By Ogdensburgh and Lake
Champlain Railroad to Potsdam Junction or Brasher Falls. This road
connects at Rouse^s Point with all the Eastern Railroads.

Time Table of the Sojne, Watertown and Ogdensburgh Bailroad. —
Trains leave Rome for Potsdam Junction at 4.30 a.m. and 5.25 p.m.
Leave Potsdam Junction for Rome at 6.45 a.m. and 1.35 p.m.

COOPER COTTAGE,

e?)

lf7U he open for Guests J'lme /, f86S.

Address M. M. LAIRD,

Long Branch, cr 15 & 17 Whitehall St., New- York.

NOW OPEN.

PLEASANT DRIVES, HEALTHY CLIMATE.

Only two hours from New-York via New-Haven Railroad.

P. D. CARRIQUE.

STAMFORD HOUSE,

Stamford, Ct.

m:r. f. ^w. i»o]vi>.

Formerly in the U. S. Hotel and Parker House, Boston, and late
Proprietor of the Mayolis House, Nahant, has taken the above
House, in the beautiful village of Stamford, Ct., 85 miles from
the city on New-Haven Railroad, where he is prepared to receive
a limited number for the season, as well as transient guests. The
table supplied with every delicacy ; airy rooms ; and only a few
minutes' walk from the depot, through a broad, shaded street.
Terms moderate, and omnibus to cars and steamboat; steamer
commutes for $20 a season.

PLYMOUTH, N. H.

• ••

This elegant and spacious hotel, in the beautiful village of Plymouth,
in the valley of the Pemigewasset, near its confluence with Bakier's
River, and just at the opening of the Mountain Region, is now ready
for the reception of guests. There are one hundred and fifty well-
lighted and well-ventilated sleeping-apartments, in suits or single
rooms, carefully famished with a studious regard to the comfort and
convenience of the occupants. Commodious bath-rooms, with hot and
cold ^ater, spacious parlors, halls, and piazzas.

This is the most picturesque and delightful region in New Hamp-
shire, abounding with points of interest to the tourist and seekers of
pleasure ; among these are Livermore Falls, which for wild and roman-
tic scenery are not surpassed. " They are probably the result of vol-
canic action, and invite the attention of the student of science and
lover of nature."

Mount Prospect, with a carriage-road to the summit, commands a
view of thirty miles in extent, including Lake Winnipesaukee, with its
numerous islands, surpassing that obtained from Mount Lafayette or
Mount Washington. -

Lake Winnipesaukee, Squam Lake, and numerous other points, all
of which are accessible by fine carriage-roads. No pains or expense
will be spared to make the Pemigewasset the home of the tourist ; and,
it is believed, with its advantages of situation and scenery, it presents
attractions, as a fashionable summer resort, superior to any in the
country.

An excellent Quadrille Band has been engaged for the season.

A Livery Stable is connected with the house, and good teams will be
in readiness at all times.

Cars leave daily for Lake Winnipesaukee, giving guests an oppor-
tunity of sailing the entire length of the lake, and returning the
same day.

Cars also leave daily for the Profile and Crawford Houses, via Lit-
tleton ; and stages daily for the Franconia and White Mountains.

J. M. FRENCH,
C. M. MORSE,

Managers,

HEATH HOUSE,

NEW-JERSEY,

Opens June 15th, -with terms reduced. For particulars,
route, etc., address

a T. COZZENS.

(LATE MR. BLANCARD'S,)

New-Brighton, Staten Island.

Boats from foot Dey Street every hour. This elegant hotel,
so near and convenient to Wall Street, is now open for the
reception of guests, and fast filling up. Persons doing
business down-town can get to their business as soon as if
they were living in Fortieth Street.

KEYPORT PAVILION,

Keyport, New-Jersey,

will open on the 1st of June for summer boarders. Splen-
did Fishing, Drives, Bathing, etc. Terms reasonable. Boats
leave Keyport at 7 A.M. ; New-York, foot of Barclay Street,
at 4 P.M. Apply to the Captain on boat, or address

GEOEGE J. KIBBEE, Proprietor.

^^tttinentol Mmttl

LONG BRANCH, N. J.

"WILHi 03PEIV JXJJVE 1.

For Rooms inquire at 487 Broadway, from 11 to 12 o'clock,
and at 33 Clinton Place, from 1 to 3 P. M.

mMM ii¥l

THIS BEAUTIFUL RESORT

W. C. GIBSON, Proprietor.

XiONGJ- BTRA-NCH,

The Finest Summer Hotel in the Country.

NOW OPEN.

STAGES AT DEPOT.

WINDEMERE HOUSE,

Grecnurood I^ako,

M. P. BROWNING & CO.,

Monroe, Orange Cottnfy, J^". T,
In the Sleepy Kotlon' Talley, on the Calskitt Mountains.

Comfortable Boarding-House for Pamilies.

Stages communicate with Steamboat and Railroad at
r Catskill Landing.

SYLVESTER THOMPSON, CatskiU, N. Y.

ISl

Fort "William. Henry Hotel.
DANIEL GALE, Proprietor.

FOREST HOUSE^

Budds Lake, N. J.

OI>E3SrS J-XJ3SrE 15-

Conveyance by Morris and Essex Railroad to Stanbope.

Address J, M. SHARP, Proprietor.

vif

CHERRY VALLEY, N. Y.,

Ih now 6pen for summer boarders. Omnibus to tlio Sulphur
Hprings. Terms moderate. Apply to

G. W. SUTLIFF.

Open from Jnne 1 to October li

Parties wishing to engage rooms will please address

GHAS. E, LELAND,

Clarendon Hotdy Saratoga Springs^ or Dd^van House^ Albany,

iiiiMii iiif ii

(OPPOSITE WEST POINT,)

Will open for the season, on TnuBSDAY, June 4. Parties
wishing to engage rooms will please address

G. F. & H. D. GARRISON, Proprietors.

I.AKXS MAHOPAC.

-♦ ♦ ♦■

^a@ij;y!l^Mr

W I

^5^

POST-OFFICE AT THE HOUSE.
RAILWAY STATION, CROTON FALLS.

-s

Pt.@©E¥

Tnis loncr-estahllphed and favorite Summer Resort, Bituated on
Narra^ansctt Bay, nearly midway between the cltie« of Providence auil
Newport, illiode Island, will be opened for tlio reception of guestB

JFrom the First of Jufy to the Fifteenth of September, ISO'S.

The imderfipfncd, having leased the spacious and elegant Hotel at
this i)lace, an; now thoroughly renovating it, together with the otlu'r
"buimings, and also the grounds; and tliey are determined to spnir
neither pains nor expense in rendering it an attractive a place for suti-
mer visiitors as can be found in the United States.

Each one of the numerous front windows of the Hotel, as well !.t
the spacious verandahs, commands an extensive and fine viev, of tlu-
Bay, and also of numerous Villages on the eastern siiore; while ai-
tached to the Hotel are forty acres of hill and vale, grove and lawn-
making ample pleasure-grounds for the guests.

Sailing, Fishing, Sea-Bathing, Bowling Alleys, Flyinrj Horse'',
Patent Swings, Shooting Galieries, etc. Koclcy Point has an excellent
Bathing Beach, for the convenience of its guests, and forty nicely ar-
ranged dressing-houses are accessible to it, wliich are at ail times in
charge of competent attendants.

Urowii «fc lieevcs' I?oi>iilar Jlaiid.

has been engaged for the season, which will furnish music for dancing
and for evemng promenades. This Band has given excellent eatisfcic-
tion the past two seasons, and is pronounced to be one of the best
corps of musicians in the country.

fonnded upon a solid roclc, the summit of which is one hundred and
fifty feet above the level of the sea, aft'ords a charming view of the Bay,
surrounding towns and cities, and the ocean.

The Western Union Telegraph Company has an office in the Hotel,
with connections in all parts of the United States.

H O XJ T E.

In order to reach Roclcy Point from New-Yorlc, parties can take
the Newport steamers from Pier 28 North River, at 5 o'cloclc p.m.,
change boats at Newport on the following morning for Providence, and
arrive at their destination in season for brealcfast. Parties coming hy
the way of Providence can reach Rocky Point bjr the boats of the
American Steamboat Company, which leave Providence at 8.30 and
9.45 A.M., and 2 and 5.30 p.m.

To Season Guests.— Contracts will be made with families or par-
ties wishing to remain through the season, on ;;easonable terms. All
letters addressed to De Camp & Cole, Rocky Point House, Providence,
R. I., will receive prompt attention.

De CAMP & COLE, Proprietors.

Rocky Point, April 1, 1868.

f 1® iaiiilil Mrantsias

AND THE REGION AROUND.
Their Scenery, Legends, and Features,

WITH SKETCHES, IN PROSE AND YERSB,

By COOPER, IRYING-, BRYANT, COLE,

AND OTHER EMINENT WRITERS.
By Hev. CHARLES R,OOK:'V\^ELL.

Illustrated. One volume 12mo, extra cloth, 350 pages, $2.00.

TAINTOR, BROTHERS k CO., Publishers,

}i29 BltOADWAT, NEW-TOItK.

]M[I]V]VESOTA.

^^|f^fj^^

l^>'.OL''.li,

WILLIAM LEIP, Proprietor.

This hotel, beautifully located on the banks of White
Bear Lake, is now complete and ready to accommodate
boarders. The proprietor has spared neither pains nor ex-
pense in making his hotel one of the most complete and
pleasant residences in Minnesota. The rooms are large and
well ventilated, the situation, for pure and healthful air,
can not be surpassed, and the distance from St. Paul being
only ten miles, renders it an agreeable drive. From an ex-
tensive garden, managed by an experienced gardener, the
table will l^e supplied with early and fresh vegetables. Fish,
game, and all delicacies of the season, always on hand.
Fishing and Hunting of the best kind in the immediate
neighborhood.

Picnic parties can always be accommodated with safe
boats, inanaged by experienced sailors, to all parts of the
Lake, which has twenty-five miles of shore. Charges eco-
nomical.

-f-»TJ--7f.-r^j»r:j,fT ■^■"fri-

ite

ife
the

FRESH-SPICY-INDEPEMDEHT I

ieto-§0rfe ^bmin^

A Sprightly Record of Metropolitan Life.

PUBLISHED IN TWO EDITIONS,

EYERY AFTERNOON,

ATT T^VO CE]VTS PER. COPY.

THE MAIL has a great many Special Sketches of in-
teresting city characters and localities, written by some of
the spiciest of metropolitan sketch-writers.

THE MAIL will keep you better inf^med upon the cur-
rent Art, Music, and Literary news of the world than
any other daily. It makes a specialty of these departments.

OUR PARIS CORRESPONDENT

is one of the sprightliest and chattiest now writing to the
New-York press.

FROm WASHINOTOIV

we have daily dispatches and letters ; two of the most en-
terprising and successful correspondents there being engaged
for THE MAIL.

For all these entertaining matters, the price is ONLY
TWO CENTS.

Read the EVENING MAIL, and prove these things for
yourself. See if it is not the sprightliest, liveliest, and
freshest daily published in the city.

CHARLES H. SWEETSER, Editor.

Publication Office, No. 229 Broadway.

;

nsffWH^HH

CHEAPEST OF ALL!

■ >m

-TOEl ami l§if §1,

VIA

Newport, Fall River, and Taunton.

THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO

Newport, Fall River, Taunton, New-Bedford, Bridgewater, Middle-

boro, Brainiree, Plymouth, Nantucket, and ail places

on the Cape Cod and South Shore Railways.

•'♦'•

STEAMBOAT E

CAPTAIN WILLIAM BROWN,
Tuesdays f Thursday s, and Saturdays,

STEAMBOAT OL

CAPTAIN N. B. ALLEN,

Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,

FRO M PIER 28, N . R.

FARE TO BOSTON— Cabin, $2.00; Deck, $1.50; Supper, $1.00;

State Rooms, $'..00 to $3.00.

Builders, John Englia & Son, New-York, 1865. Engine, by Novelty
Iron Works— 85-inch cylinder, with 12-feet stroke. Wheels, 42 feet in
diameter. Extreme length, 345 feet ; breadth of beam, 80 feet over all.
Tonna^^c, 2140. State Rooms, 150 ; Berths, 400. Joiner work, by J. E.
Hoffraire. Furniture manufactured l)y the Company. Drapery, Linen,
Carpets, etc., by A. T. Stewart & Co." Gas Fixtures, Silver Plate, etc.,
by E. V. Haughwout & Co, Lighted by Gas.

WILLIAM BROWN, Captain.
D. G. Kennet, Ist Pilot. James Finkel, 1st Engineer.

Thomas Collins, 2d Pilot. Joseph S. Brown, 2d Engineer. ^

Theo. Warren, Clerk. Wm. Batcheluer, Ist Mate.

L. V. TiLTON, Steward. He!tby Thompson, 2d Mate.

OI^T> CJOHiOlVY.

Builders, John Englis & Son, New-York, 1865. Engine by the Allaire
Works— 80-inch cylinder, with 12-feet stroke. Wheels, 40 feet in diam-
eter. Extreme length, 342 feet ; breadth of beam, 80 feet overall ; depth
of hold, 15 feet ; Tonnage. 1960. State Rooms, 134 ; Berths, 434. Joiner
work by J. E. Hoffmire. Furniture manufactured by the Company.
Drapery, Linen, Carpets, etc., by A. T. Stewart & Co. Gas Fixtures.
Silver Plate, etc., by E. V. Haughwout & Co. Lighted by Gas and

heated by Steam.

N. B.
Joseph Cabb, Ist Pilot.
Sanders, 2d Pilot.

ALLEN, Captain.

Alfred Beebb, Ist Engineer.
Edwd. Saltpauqh, 2d Engineer.
David Macaffree, 1st Mate.
James Robinson, 2d Mate.

J. B. Brayton, Clerk.
George A. Rice, Steward.

The splendid Steamboats " METROPOLIS" and "EMPIRE STATE."
also belong to this Line, and are held in Reserve.

»oat
-^ier .

Jarranc

[e princ

and 9:

^Kiyn, 2(

at any (

Fstinatioi

^ S. S. 0(

NEW DAILY LINE TO NEW-HAVEN.

For Passengers and Freight.

THE STEAMBOATS

W«®4¥

Capt. a. W. snow.

Capt. N. A. WILBUR.

'drum

iisUj

One of the above Steamers will leave

Pier 26 East River, foot of Peck Slip,

EVERY NIGHT AT 4 O'CLOCK,

(SUNDAYS EXCEPTED.)

Meturning, tvill leave Netv-Haven every night

at 10 o^clocJc.

Freight taken for Canal, New-Haven, Hartford, and

Springfield, and New-Haven and New-London Shore

arranc ^^i^E RAILROAD, at lowest rates,
[e princ

i^rHml S. T. STA]??NARD, Snperiutendent.

at any (I —____,

ptinatioil /

s. g. 0(| SAXTON & SEABUET, Agents,

112 South Street, and on the Pier.

1
>oat

m \\

Grand Pleasure Excursions in July and August.

The Round Trip of more than 2000 miles, embraces 6 degrees of Lati-
tude and 11 degrees of Longitude, passing through

LaKes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Superior, and tlie BeantiM Rivers Detroit,

St. Clair, and tie Ste. Maries,

with its Thousand Isles, presenting to the Tourist for Pleasure or
Health, or in pursuit of Science, more real Attractions than any other
on the Continent of America,

IT IS ALSO BY FAR THE CHEAPEST TRIP OFFERED TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC.

The PARE, including meals, berths, and PASsAOELheing less
per day than the Prices charged by First-Class Hotels.

t^^ No one should fail to visit this interesting and wonderful coun-
try, with its Cool, Healthful, and Invigorating Climate. Indeed, no
country in the world offers such inducements to the invalid as that of
Lake Superior. To the Scientific, we point to the immense Mineral
deposits of IRON, existing, as they do, in entire Mountains of Ore,
yielding as high as Ninety per cent of Pure Iron ; also to the most pro-
ductive and best paying copper mines in the world • to the newly dis-
covered Silver Lead Mines, and the Rich Gold Fields of Vermilion
Lake ; to that astounding wonder of Geology, the PICTURED ROCKS,
rising out of the Lake, perpendicularly, 400 feet, and to many other
curious and interesting geological formations, too numerous to men-
tion here.

1868.

FOR LAKE SUPERIOR.

1868.

Tie New Stauncli and Elegant Steamer METEOR,

THOMAS WILSON, Master,
Will Leave Cleveland on ihe following days, at 8 o'clock P.M.

Wednesday May 20

Wednesday June 3

Wednesday June 17

Thursday July 1

Wednesday July 15

Wednesday July 29

Wednesday August 13

Wednesday August 26

Wednesday September 9

Wednesday September 23

Wednesday October 7

Will Leave Detroit on the following days, at 10 o'clock P.M.

Thursday May 21

Thursday June 4

Thursday June 18

Thursday July 2

Thursday July 16

Thursday Ju!y 30

1^" Calling at Port Huron and Samia on the next morning, after

leaving Detroit.

Thursday August 13

Thursday August 27

Thursday September 17

Thursday September 24

Thursday October 8

HANNA & CO., Agents, Cleveland, 0.
BUOKLET & CO., Agents, Detroit, Mich.
J. K. WHITINa, Manager, Foot First Street, Detroit, Mich.

A'lMi^a til MhriaiMMiii

mimmttimimmiiuVMiin

^^h<.^..»J^-*^^t.*«^.>^S.. A>aiWa^l^ .^;^»ifaMg4i-,»^^«..k...

' August,

e^eos of Lati-

Bi^ers Detroit,

r Pleasure or
ian any other

'ElINQ PUBLIC.

eing less
•tels.

iderfiil coun-
Indeed, no
iid as that of
snse Mineral
ains of Ore,
he most pro-
e newly dis-
f Vermilion
ED ROCKS,
many other
>us to men-

1868.

k P.M.

•A"^"etl3
August 26
>ptember 9
►tember 23
October 7

P.M.

A-ugust 13
A^ugust 27
tember 17
member 24
October 8

r, after

it, Mich.

mimtm