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Lorsque Ie document est trop grand poM- Atro raproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est fiimA & partii da I'angle supArieur gaucho, de gouche A droit et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaira. Las diagrammes suivant iliustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 BOOK OF ./ft- <*B#*BV n*Bff* r? ^'^ } EXP7>^iINING WHERE TO FIKD THEM, HOW TO FIND THEM, AND THEIR ESPECIAL ADVANTAGES, "WITH DETAILS OF TIME TABLES AND PRICES. A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR THE SUMMER TOURIST, WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTBATIONS. COMPILED BY CHARLES H. SWKETSER, Author of the " Guide to the Northwest," and Editor of the " New- York Evening MaU." NEW-YORK : "EVENINQ MAIL" OFFICE, No. 329 BROADWAY. 1868. Caric*hrqi.fe Uf^iversitd . Ottawa • University Map LK>rcjry Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by CHARLES H. SWEETSER, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York, A. GEAT A OBEEK, • C? O JOHN FBINTEBB, 16 AND 18 JACOB BTBBST, KEW-TOBC. '•^1 •-'^ , , ' ■< • W %.-.. This Book op Summer Bbsorts is intended as a hand-book of practical information. It lias been carefully and laboriously com- piled, and is believed to be generally correct. Another season it will be made still more complete. We shall be happy to receive from any source facts and incidents that will add value to future editions. Our country is a splendid one for the tourist, but it has wretched guide-books. We trust that this volume will increase tbo interest in the former, and suggest improvements for the latter. We have gleaned from any and all sources at command, borrowed and original. Especially have we culled from BurVs Connecticut B'mr Guide, WaUing's Route Books, Lossing's Hudson, Star King's White mils, and William L. Stone's Saratoga writings. But a very considerable part of the book is original. For many matters of interest to the summer tourist, we refer the reader to the introductory chapter. And for pure air, bird concerts, sparkling waters, long life, health, and happiness, we refer one and all to the places whither this book directs. Nkw-York, June, 1868, I The compiler of this volume will make a specialty of reporting summer resort news through the columns of his paper, the New- York Evening Mail. In this journal there will be presented from time to time most valuable correspondence ft-om many resorts, and every thing of interest to the summer traveler will be carefully noted. The Mail will be sent to any address during the months of June, July, August, and September for two dollars, or at the general rate of fifty cents per month. f GENEEAL DIYISIOKS. I. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. II. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. III. SPRINGS AND FALLS. IV. SEASIDE RESORTS. DOMINION OF CANADA. VI. TIME TABLES. ^ I vn. COMPLETE TOPICAL INDEX. VIII. MEMORANDA. IX. ADVERTISEMENTS FOR TOURISTS. MAPS. NEW-ENGLAND. LONG ISLAND SOUND. THE PROVINCES. LAKE CIIAMPLAIN. ROUTES TO SOUTHERN SPRINGS. i ILLUSTRATIONS. Cattskill Mountain Hoase. Lake Memphremagog House. The Flume, White Mountains. Crystal Cascade, White Mountains. Glen Ellis Fall8,White Mountains. White Mountains. Fort William Henry Hotel, Lake George. Tadoussac Hotel, Quebec Prov. Fouquet's Hotel, Plattsburg. Windermere House, Greenwood Lake. Empire and Congress Springs, Saratoga. High Rock Spring, Saratoga. HiiSh Rock Spring in 1767. Congress Hall, Saratoga. Union Hotel and Grounds, Sara- toga. Columbian Spring, Saratoga. Messena Sprmgs. Taghkanic Falls. Pulpit Falls, Ithaca, N. Y. Falls at Ithaca. Ocean House, Newport. White Sulphur Springs, Va. Falls of Minnehaha, Minnesota. Arched Rocks, Lake Superior. Mt. Mansfield House, Stowe, Vt. Genesee Falls, N. Y. Franconia Notch, Whl' ~ Moon- tains. i GENERAL INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. ••♦•- PEACTICAL HINTS TO THE TOUKIST. TiiEKR are five tilings that an experionccd traveler al- ways makes a particular care : /. He owns a good trunk. IT. He carries thick clothiivj, even in the hottest weather. III. ITis hand-satchel is never without camphor, lauda- num, and brandy for medicine, IV. He docs not drink water in unaccustomed places. r. He buys through tickets, e. sn when not going beyond a local station. The summer tourist should certainly have his trip pretty well mapped out before starting. If he has four weeks and two hundred and fifty dollars, he can make either of the Lake Superior Trip, White Mountain Trip, Virginia Springs Trip, St. Lawrence and Saguenay Trip. If he has six weeks and three hundred and fifty dollars, he i)an make the j' Trip OF THE Provinces. 10 INTUODUCTOUY CIIArXKR. % For a four weeks' Bujourn at the Sea-Siiouk, one liundred and fifty dollars will sufllcc, even at tlio most popular ])lacefl. If tlio tourist luis only two wecka and ono hundred dol- lar, he can make a trip to Sauatoga Spiiinos and Lake George. A younpf man can make the trip of the White Moun- tains with one hundred dollars, and wander about for ten days or a fortnij[rht. If one desires to breathe the sea air for a little, but does not care to spend over fifty or seventy-five dollars, he will do well to go to Branford, Ct., Watch Hill, II. I., or llye, N. H. The tourist should not visit Niagara, Long Branch, New- port, or Cape May, intending to live at the best hotels, witliout providing himself with money at the rate of fifty dollars a week. The time-tables published in the railway-guides, al- though very valuable, are not so accurate as they should be. If you make extensive journeyings, you will do well to l^rovide yourself with the time-tables of the roads over which you pass. They can be procured at leading hotels, or at central or union ticket-offices. This will save you much vexation. Remember that the general cost of travel upon railroads is three and one third cents per mile. Upon steamboats it is generally one third less. IXTnODUCTORY CIIAPTKR. 11 at tlio •ed dol- Moun- for ten ut does lie will or live, 1, New- hotels, of fifty cles, al- 3uld bo. well to is over hotels, Lve you lilroads boats it At Nlnj]fftrn, and the Wliito ^rouiitftlns, tlioro 1« nn ep- tablirtlied rate of ])rireH for tin* hacknicn and stn^jfrs. Tlieni^ you can learn at tlui hotel-desk, and if you then Hubmit to extortion, it is nimplest foolishnesM. When you have lon;:^ days of journey before you, carry lunclu'H in your satchels. It will save extra vagrant ex- pense's, and will alTortl a vast deal more comfort than tha railroad restaurants. Long Uranch, Saratoga, and tho White Mountains aro inconiparal>ly tlu? three great sumnier resorts of tho coun- try. Of tho Lakes, Mahopac is first. Tho " (iroffory House" there is unccpialed in the country. The "Pecpiot House," at New-London, i^ certainly tho most fashionable Bummer hotel in th(; countrv. If you aro planning a trip among the Adlrondacks, re- member that Plattsburg, Vt., is the grand starting-point. Go directly to Fouquet's Hotel, and there you can get all information, and mak(} all your plans. Do not plan for less than six weeks, if you aro going to tho Adirondacks. Two hundred dollars will cover the expense. In going to tho White Mountains, go up the Connecti- cut Valley, and return by way of Portland. For downright rough sea-sido experience, the best point for the tourist is Mount Desert, Maine. You can spend a fortnight here for fifty dollars. Some of the best fishing points are at the eastern ex- tremity of Long Island, and which are almost tlie only places not fully recorded in this book. Another season we shall make this more complete. But it the tourist takes the boat to Sag Harbor, he ^^'ill find a good boarding-house there, and if ho goes by Long Island Railroad to Green- port, he will have no difficulty in locating among ii^e fa- vorite haunts of the fishermen. 12 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. For trout-fishing', go to Lake Umbagog, north of t\e White Mountains about 20 miles. TJiere are no hotels here, but you can live with the farmers, and have glorious bread and milk. The starting-point for Umbagog is Gorham, N. H. The Delaware Water Gap trip affords a view of some of the finest scenery in all the country. There are splendid hotels here, and it is a most fascinating trip to take. For a far trip, nothing can be more interesting, varied, and healthy than up Lake Superior, across in the forests (by stage) to St. Paul, thence down the Mississippi, and home by Madison, Chicago, and Detroit. This requires six weeks, and three hundred and fifty dollars. There is superb fishing all about St. Paul. For any one inclined to consumption, no better trip can be taken in the world. Only remember in going up Lake Superior, that only one boat (the Keweenaw) goes all the way through the lake to Superior City. The White Sulphur Springs are most popular, and are well described in this volume. For a lengthy summer visit, Conroy, N. H., Manchester, Vt., Stockbridge, Northampton, and Greenfield, Mass., and Litchfield and Stamford, Ct., are the most delig'htful. The most enchanting near mountain view in the coun- try is from Mount Holyoke, near Northampton, Mass. If you go to the White Mountains, do not fail to visit Berlin Fails, above Gorham. They are, inadvertently, almost overlooked in our White Mountain chapter. Of the Long Branch hotels, •* Howland's" is most exclu- sive, " Stetson's" most elegant, the " Continental" the largest and gayest, the " Mansion" finest situated for the water, and the " Metropolitan" nearest the cars and most reasonable in prices. f INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 13 f '»■ The Guilford Point House, at Guilford, Ct., is ono of the very best sea-side hotels. It is quiet and yet fashion- able, and the prices reasonable. The College Hill House, at Poughkeepsie, Highland House, at Garrison's, (West-Point,) Heath House, at Schooley's Mountain, and the Saint Alban's House, on Lake Champlain, are all famous for their excellent man- agement. ' In making fishing excursions, there is little advantag(^ in carrying with you any apparatus. It can be procuretl easily and cheaply at all the fishing resorts. For mackerel-fishing, go to Swampscot, Mass. For bl no- fishing, cruise among the Thimble Islands in the Sound, off Branford. For crabbing and clams, the Rocky Point Hovse, near Providence, is celebrated. At the Sault Sainte Marie, Lake Superior, +here is a hotol that is much frequented by fishermen. At this point the Indians catch great quantities of lake trout for the market. The three best lakes in Minnesota for fishing are : Minne- tonka. White Bear, and Clear Lake. There are hotels at each. There is superb fishing in the lakes about Madison, Wisconsin. If you want a grand old buffalo hunt, go to Fort Abcr- crombie, by stage from Saint Paul. For the best dc(.'r hunting, go to Sunrise, Wisconsin, on the military and stage road from Saint Paul to Superior City. For brook trout, there is no place in all the land equal to " Twin Lakes," 20 miles west of Superior City. Young men who desire adventure will find the best ocean trip from Superior City up the Saint Louis Kiver, across Sandy Lake, and down the Mississippi to Saint Paul. This requires a week, and an Indian guide or two. The trip *' across the Continent " has been ignored in 14 INTJJODUCTORY CHAPTER. this book, as hardly yet practicable for the ordinary sum- mer tourist. It will doubtless take its place in our next (Hlition. In our account of Sharon Springs we have neglected to fH[>;'ak of Union Hall, one of the leading hotels there. It is kept by Mr. A. Willmann. Terms, $3.50 per day, wHh a reduction for families ; rooms for 300 guests. House open from June 15th to September 15th. Sulphur baths may be had here. In our Staten Island article we have neglected to notice Pettler's Hotel, which has just been purchased by Mr. Lachmeyer, and which is now being refitted and enlarged. The house overlooks the entire Bay of New- York, and is I'cached from the first steamboat landing on either side. The "New- York Hotel," at Pleasure Bay, has been leased by Mrs. Mortimer, who kept the " Cooper Cottage" last year. Nearly all the summer hotels will open this year on the J bt of June. Tourists who propose to make the overland trip to Cali- fornia will find some useful tables among the time-tables at the end of the volume. In planning for the Lake Superior trip, the tourist 8liould remember that boats leave tri- weekly from Detroit and Cleveland. The Keweenaw goes to Superior City. The Meteor and other boats to Ontonagon only. In going to Saint Paul, Minnesota, if you do not have the time for the steamboat trip ui) the Mississippi, you can go all the way by cars, crossing the Mississippi at Prairie du Chien. Maps and time-tables can be had of Mr. Prince, No. 2 Astor House, New- York. Among the excursions announced for the summer, none will be more delightful than tliose planned by the New- Jersey Railway to the Virginia Springs. IJfTKOCUCTOEV CnAPTEE. jq plea.a^t ends. ^' "^ ""'" """^^ """"y good and t-r tl "'^f;*»^"fr*'>."»'— — ■•• mim 4, • / "Nv 4 Jafc«s, Mibtts, mh iattjrtaitts. ? ', \i / 1 ■^1' m. '* ' '—*<■* fv^ I i f : .jMU. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ALONG THE HUDSON BIYEB. Mr. Lossing, in his Book of the Hudson, (to which,, with other volumes, we are greatly indebted,) well re- marks, that " the past has left scarcely a record upon the- shores of this river ; it is full of the living present, illus- trating by its general aspect the free thought and free ac- tion which are giving strength and solidity to the young and vigorous nation within whose bosom its bright waters flow." The Hudson is commonly spoken of in comparison with the Rhine ; but, unlike that less charming stream,, its beauties are those of nature, and not antiquity ; its dis- tinction is almost wholly dependent upon the peculiar; attractions of its banks, its woods and mountains. We start, therefore, appropriately, from the busiest city in the world, and shall seldom be turned aside from Nature's beauty by tradition or history till we lose ourselves in the primeval forest whence the Hudson springs. Our way lies now over the very finest route for the summer tourist in all the country ; and it is peculiarly American, as it is peculiarly beautiful. In the present article, we shall include not only the im- mediate banks of the river, but points of interest along the Harlem and Piermont (Northern New-Jersey) Railways, LAKES, niVEBS, AND MOUNTAINS. li I !i r, K fi il as fitly belonging here. The river-trip proper may bo made best in cither one of two ways : by the day -boat to Albany, the " Daniel Drew," or tlio " Chauncey Vibbard," 9 A.M., from foot of Harrison street ; fare, $1 ; excellent din- ner ($1) on board ; or by the Hudson River Railway, in Wag- ner's " drawing-room cars," which afford at once elegance, seclusion without danger, and as perfect a view, through largo windows, as can be gained from land ; (charge, $1 extra, over fare, to Albany.) The time to Albany is, by steamboat, about 15 hours ; by rail, 6 hours on express trains, Q^ to 7 on others. Fare on railway — about one third less in summer than in winter — through to Albany, $8.20. For the tourist, the Hudson River will begin at Harrison or at Thirtieth street, and be little more than a place to get away from until he reach One Hundred and Fifty-second street, cUias Washington Heights, where there is a way- fitation of the railway, and a large hotel just opposite. Washington Heights may well be made a point of de- parture by such tourists as are unfamiliar with the ele- gant upper portion of New- York Island and its neighbor- hood. Revolutionary memories are most plentiful here, and one can almost perceive the struggle going on be- tween the bones of the martyrs of 76 and the cabbages of our wealthy butchers and bakers, etc., who have pur- chased and are metamorphosing the ancient ground. A ride of 5 miles in any direction over the splendidly macadamized Bloomingaale road, the continuation (for more than 20 miles) of Broadway, or over many of the by-ways, will richly repay the visitor. The natural- ist Audubon purchased and improved, a few years ago, a fine grove less than a quarter-mile above the hotel, calling \t Audubon Park. The inclosure is now filled with pretty cottages, the one nearest the south-west being the original LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. mansion. Tho widow of tho savant resides in one of the other dwollinffs. Near the park, toward tho east, is tho Trinity Cliurch Cemetery, in which are many notable graves, among them that of Audubon. Tho Convent of the Sacred Heart, a large and fashionable young ladies' boarding-school as well as convent, Roman Catholic in government, is further down, upon tlio Tenth avenue ; and the pretentious residence, with gilded dome, of the editor of the New-York Herakl, James Gordon Bennett, commonly attracts the curiosity of a stranger as we go nearer the eastern shore. Before leaving the Heights, the visitor will also wish to examine the spot whose former occupation gives name to the mountain or ridge upon which are all these places — the old Fort Washington. This extended its earth-works quite to the river ; but the citadel stood on the crown of Mount '7ashington, now called Washington Heights, the most elevated land on the island, overlooking the country in every direction, and having in view the river from the Highlands to the har- bor of the city below. The'' exact location was between One Hundred and Eighty-first and One Hundred and Eighty-sixth streets, and about Eleventh avenue. The Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb stands nearly upon the spot, and the whole vicinity is occupied with charming villas. The only ren^ains of the Revolutionary fortifica- tions visible are in the earth- works on the river at Jeffrey's Hook. While at the Heights, one must run over to the Harlem side of the island. High Bridge is well known to every one as a magnificent viaduct 1450 feet long, 114 high, transporting the Croton River water in huge mains over the Harlem (more properly Muscoota) River, two miles above Harlem Bridge, at One Hundred and Thirtietli LAKES, IlIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS, !< ' street. Morris House, on the cliff ovcrhanji^inff the river, is a fine old mansion, famous as the residence of Aaron Burr's widow, better known as Madame Jumel, her former husband's name. The mansion was erected in 1755 by Roger Morris, General Washington's successful (Tory) ri- val in a suit for the hand of Miss Mary Philipse. A fine view of the vicinity may bo had cither from the house or the grounds behind it. About a mile inland, on the Kingsbridgo road, half-way between the two rivers, is the Grange, the house of Gen. Alexander Hamilton, standing secluded at some distance from the road. Near the house is a group of 13 trees planted by the General, and named after the original States ; the one named South-Carolina alone grew up crooked 1 Spuyt den Duyvel Creek is a veiy pretty little stream, though too trifling to be the dividing line, as it is, of the great city from Westchester county. It takes its name from the famous attempt of Stuyvesant's trumpeter, An- tony Van Corlear, to swim across it en spuyt den Duyvel — " in spite of the Devil !'* The latter personage triumphed, and has commonly been considered master of the situa- tion, not to say of the city, ever since I The creek runs in a north-westerly direction from the Muscoota (Harlem) to the Hudson River. Kingsbridge is a small wooden bridge over the creek, at its head, where there is some- what of a village. It was built in 1693, and was the only means of approaching Manhattan (New- York) from the mainland. Here there was much fighting during the Revolution, and from its northern end to the Croton River the country was so unsafe that neither Whig nor Tory could live safely, whence the name of the Neutral Ground. At the northern border of it we shall meet with tha inter- esting history of Major Andre. LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. Over tlio (Hudson) river, the Northern Hallway of Now. Jersey run;* back into the country beyond tUo cliffs, mak- ing its most important calls at Fort Leo, Enjflewood, and Piermont. Engk'wood boasts tho Palisade House, a largo hotel, where many summer boarders find delightful es- cape from the city. Fort Leo is a village grandly situated on the southern summit of the Palisades, 5300 feet above the river, and chiefly interesting from that fact. These splendid cliffs, or columns, beginning at Fort Leo, about opposite One Hundred and Sixtieth street in tho city, ex- tend some 20 miles up the river, as far as the Tappan Zee, (Sea,) a broad basin at Tarrytown. More imposing, con- sidering their distance and height, than the rocky banks of the Saguenay, they form a magnificent contrast to the quiet beauty of the opposite shore. The formation is trap, much resembling the columns of Fingal's Cave and the Giant Causeway ; but tho cliff hardly varies from the perpendicular, and extends unbrokenly until it terminates as abruptly as it began. Tho height of the Palisades is 300 to 500 feet. Past New- York (Manhattan) Island, the next best stop- ping-place is Yonkers, where is the Getty House, W. H. Doty, proprietor — always open. The village is an ancient settlement at the mouth of the Neperah, or Sawmill River, w^as recently incorporated, and is a favorite suburban home of New-Yorkers. The chief attraction to visitors is the ancient Philipse Manor, built in 1683 and 1745, now occu- pied by the Hon. W. W. Woodworth, who makes visitors welcome. Beautiful Mary Philipse, tho early love of General Washington, was born and lived here. It was at Yonkers landing that Hudson found the strong tidal current from the north that revived his hopes of a northern passage to India. Font Hill, 1| miles 1 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. down, 18 a mannlon built in En^liHli cnHtcllatcd form by Edwin ForruHt, tra^ttlian, for a sumni<»r rtJBidcnco, In 1838. HiH dreams of domestic liappiness were ])erm it- ted realizati(m hero with his wifo till 1844, when ho revisited Enjjfland and became involved with Ma- cready. This resulted in the famous " Astor Place riots" in New- York City, 1848, and domestic troubles and divorce to poor Forrest. Tho Roman Catholic Sisters of Charity (Mount Saint Vincent) have purchased and preatly added to tho buildings for a convent. Dobb's Ferry, (which read- ers of the January Putnam will easily recognize,) orij^i- nally Weec-qucs-guck, (Indian for " place of tho bark-ket- tle,") is 5 miles north of Yonkers, on tho railway, and is notable for the Livingston Mansion, now owned by Ste- phen Archer, a Friend, where Washington met, in 1783, the " Civil Governor of New- York," George Clinton, and the British commander, Sir Guy Carleton, to confer con- cerning tho evacuation of the city. At this point in tho river is the most picturesque portion of the Palisades. The passenger by boat will stop at Piermont, on the west bank, between Tarrytown and Dobb's Ferry. Irving- ton is directly opposite to it. The Erie Railway formerly made Piermont its eastern terminus ; but since New-Jer- sey has admitted that great corporation to privileges on its soil, only the freight terminus remains here. The river at this point is 3 miles wide, and still retains the old Dutch name of Tappan Zee. The village of Tappan, where Andre was tried and executed, is 3 miles out of Piermont, Tarrytown must be the traveler's point of departure for the region made classic by Irving. Every body knows what there is of interest hereabout, and will need no as- sistance from us. Andre's monument, on the spot of his arrest. Van Wart's monument, at Greensburg, 3 miles MhllMMl 9 f LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. east, ami tlio moniimont to the tlirco captorfl, ncrr tho Po- cantc'co, am tlm clikof Uovolutioaary rDiiiiiulcri*. Ono milo below Irvinffton is Nevin, tho eHtate of (km. Aloxaiuler Hamilton's cldewt Boa. James, whoro may bo soon tho li- brary, and a portrait by Stuart, of tin; illiiHtriouH olHcer. Not far (liHtant is Mr. OHtinet's residonco, built in French Bty-lo, of Caen stono, and 08t<^eincd superior, externally and internally, ^o any other dwelling on the Hudson. The owner is a weuitliy merchant of New- York. Another re- markably fine mansion near Tarrytown is tlio Paulding Manor, built of white marble in the pointed Tudor style, and exceedingly jncturesquo in effect. The principal points of interest regarding Washington Irvirg's home and writings are : Sunnyside, his residence, with 'ts grounds, on Wolfe rt Acker's Rust, 3 miles below Tarry I own ; Sleepy Hollow, just above tho old brick and stone Dutch church, on the Pocanteco, where Ichabod lost his wits ; and tho grave of tho great Irving, behind tho old church, in full view of the Tappan Zee. At Nyack, a charming village on the west shore a little above tho point opposite Tarrytown, (ferry from the latter place,) the Smithsonian House affords entertainment, whence a short drive brings the tourist to Rockland Lake, 150 feet above the river, half a mile long and three fourths wide, noted for its ice trade. The Hackensack River car- ries the waters of this lake to Newark Bay, near New- York. On the other side of the river there is the State prison at Sing Sing, which the tourist will hardly care to visit ; and at Croton Point, 36 miles from New- York, he will find the mouth of Croton (originally Kitchawan) River, and may profitably visit the artificial lake from which the purified waters of the stream supply the citizens of Man- hattan. Dr. UnderhilFs graperies are located at Croton, 8 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. I; : I* ! ii> and are wortli visiting. Recrossing the river ard ascend- ing a few miles, we are at Stony Point, made forever fa- mous by " Mad Anthony Wayne," in 1779. The whole point is a mass of granite rock, with patches of evergreen and shrubs, except on the northern side, where is a black cliff of magnetic ore, not worth quarrying. We are now rapidly approaching Peekskill, the second of the chief stations, (Yonkers first,) on the railway, 43 miles up. The river here becomes 3 miles broad, form- ing Haverstraw Bay, which extends as far north as the Dunderberg, a grand, boulder-like mountain, ("thunder mountain,") about a mile above the town, on the west bank. This and Anthony's Nose, opposite, are two of the finest elevations of the whole river-bank. The railway tunnel under Anthony's Nose is one of the most interest- ing objects in itself and its vicinity which the rapid tra- veler may enjoy. Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory which rises to the height of 1128 feet, the base of which has been tunneled by the railway a length' of 200 feet. Two miles above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an eleva- tion of 865 feet. Near by, and reaching far out into the river, is a sandy bluff, on which Fort Independence once stood. Further on is Beverly Island, and in the extreme distance Bear Mountain. At Peekskill itself, the Van Cort- landt Mansion, once Gen. Washington's headquarters, the monument to Paulding, (one of Andre's captors,) and Henry Ward Beecher's residence, are the chief things to see. Mr. Beecher has a farm of about 30 acres, and every farmer in the neighborhood is puzzled to know how he gets so much out of it. It produces an enormous quantity of vegetables, most of which are sold in the village, and his neighbors say it nets him about $5000 a year. It stands on the slope of one of the hills that stretch up from the Hud- LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 9 son River, and is one of the smartest and prettiest houses, though decidedly antique in architecture, that one could wish to live in. Mr. Beecher's family reside here from the beginning of summer till about the middle of the fall, and the head of the establishment spends about half of the same time. liake Mohegan is only 4 miles distant, and Lake Malio- pac about 14. Another lake, Oskewanna, is 4 miles away. There was only one hotel at Lake Mohegan last season, but there are several boarding-houses in the neighbor- hood, and most of them are pretty well filled. There is excellent fishing at Oskewanna, and parties from New York ride out from Peekskill every day, spend a few hours coaxing pickerel from their cool retreat, and return next day. Most of the visitors at Lake Mahopac run out by the Harlem Railway. Close by the Dunderberg, just below the Brocken Kill, lies lona Island, (300 acres, 200 being marsh,) rendered no- table of late by Dr. C. W. Grant's nursery and graperies. This island is upon the dividing line of temperature. The sea-breeze stops here, and its effects are visible upon vege- tation. The season is two weeks earlier than at Newburg, only 14 miles north, above the Highlands. The width of the river between the island and Anthony's Nose is only three eighths of a mile — less than at any other point below Albany ; and the tidal currents here, in the deep water, are so swift that this part of the river is called the Race. It is about at this point that the river takes a great bend to the north-east, recovering from the western bend by which it leaves the bay at Peck's Kill, and continues in a narrower channel till we pass Cold Spring, where it turns again to the east slightly. The last change of direction is caused by Weat-Point, a bold promontory of great 10 LAKES, El VERS, AND MOUNTAINS. i.i h iF attractions, both naturally, aesthetically, and socially. This famous resort is reached directly by boat, and by ferry from the railway st.ation of Garrison's, 51 miles from New- York City. The Highland House at Garrison's accommo- dates 50 boarders j reached by stage. Cozzen«'s, 1 mile below the Point, is the principal hotel ; excellent, but lim- ited (200) in accommodations. Roe's Hotel is at the extreme north end of the plateau. Both houses command magnifi- cent views. Cozzens's is nearest to Buttermilk Falls — a small cascade 3 ixiiles above Fort Montgomery, where Sir Henry Clinton, in 1777, successfully attacked and drove out the brothers, Generals George and James Clinton, hoping thereby to save Burgoyne's surrender at Saratoga. The falls are 100 feet high, of a milk-w^hite color when swollen, whence tlieir name. They are situate on Sinni ■ pink Lake, at the foot of Bear Mountain — the lake so in- carnadined at the battles named above as to be otherwise known as Bloody Pond. The best months in which to visit West-Point are July and August, not only for viewing the river scenery, which is extremely luxuriant at that season, but on account of the military exercises, better known as " exhibitions," in which all the cadets join. The Military Academy, at the extreme north end of the promontory, Flirtation Walk, a romantic shaded path cut in the rocky hillside, leading to Kosciusko's garden and monument, and numberless other minor attractions, render the point one to be long remem- bered with pleasure by its visitors. Cro'nest, more commonly known as Kidd's Plug Cliff, on the western bank, casts its broad shadow upon us as we continue our voyage up from West-Point. This is one of the highest mountains found in the Highland group — 1428 feet. Rodman Drake's Culprit Fay has its scene here. A ■OM LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 11 ;. This )y ferry n New- commo- 1 mile )ut lim- 3xtreme magnifi- Falls— a lere Sir d drove Clinton, aratoga. or wlien n Sinni- £6 so in- tlierwise are July , which lount of |.ons," in ', at the IWalk, a lading to jss other remem- |ug Cliff. 18 as we Is one of jp— 1428 le here. George P. Morris lived at Urdercliff, a terrace of Bull Hill, opposite Cro'nest, and wrote about it. Cold Spring is the railway station for both these points, the cliff where Kidd " plugged" away bis treasures being reached by row-boat. The village of Cornwall is on the same side of the river with Cro'nest, in Orange county. It is a favorite place of summer resort ; hotel. Linden Park, kept by C. H. Ring. Idlewild, the residence of the late N. P. Willis, is a little north of the village. That genial poet has done the resi- dents of this vicinity much good service, like Dr. Hitchcock at the hills about Amherst, Mass., in substituting Indian or poetic names for the barbaric terms often covering these splendid cliffs. Beyond Cold Spring, on the east bank of the river, the HighliiUd range is continued in the jagged precipices of the Breakneck and Beacon hills, in height respectively 1187 and 1685 feet. These mountains are among the most commanding features of the river scenery. Mr. Lossing remarks of this region, " I rowed to the middle of the river in the direction of Cold Spring village, (from Newburg,) and obtained a fine view of the Highland en- trance to Newburg Bay. On the left, in shadow [sunset] stood the Storm King, on the right was rugged Break- neck, with its neighbor, round Little Beacon Hill, and be- tween was Pollopell's Island, a solitary rocky eminence rising from the river a mile north of them. Beyond these were seen the expanse of Newburg Bay, the village, the cultivated country beyond, and the dim, pale peaks of the Katzbergs, [Catskills,] almost GO miles distant. This view is always admired by travelers as one of the most agree- able from New- York to Albany." Newburg lies on the western bank of the river, nearly opposite Fishkill, with wliich communication is had by ! I i I 12 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ferry. It is tlie youngest city in the State, and has a popu- lation of 15,000. The hotels are : United States, by H. Blake, opposite the landing ; the Powelton, same propri- etor, 1| miles from the landing, a quarter-mile from the river. The future Boston, Atlantic, and Erie Railway will have its western terminus "liere, and the Company are endeavoring to obtain privilege to bridge the river here, that they may connect westward : the road now ends at Waterbury, Ct., and is known as the Providence, Hartford, and Fishkill. Newburg is the scene of many of the incidents in Cooper's Spy; but the tourist will find it most interesting in the fine landscape and the historical reminiscences at Washington's head-quarters, the old Has- brouck Mansion, built 1750, now owned by the State. The Revolutionary army was disbanded here June 23d, 1783. In the spring of that year, at this place, a revolt against Congress by the soldiers was quieted by General Wash- ington, after he had been offered the power and title of king, with such result as the reader may imagine. The old mansion stands in the south part of the village. Two miles north-east of Fishkill Landing is the Ver- planck House, interesting as having once been the head- quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place in which the famous Society of the Cincinnati was organized in 1783. Beyond this, the first point of interest is New- Hamburg Tunnel, an excavation through a rocky promontory, 800 feet long. All over this bluff, including the roof of the tunnel, the arbor mice, commonly but inaccurately called the white cedar, grows most abundantly and beautifully. Loudon, the English horticulturist, deems these some of the finest specimens of this shrub in the world. They grow of all sizes and most perfect in form ; but the most beautiful are those of 6 to 10 feet in height, — . — ^- LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 13 has a popu- ates, by H. ime propri- le fromtlio Railway will ompany are e river here, now ends at .ce, Hartford, nany of the will find it lie historical , the old Has- e State. The Lne 23d, 1783. revolt against eneral Wash- r and title of nagine. The tillage. g is the Ver- een the head- in which the 5ed in 1783. ^ewHamburg omontory, 800 f the roof of inaccurately undantly and llturist, deems shrub in the srfect in form ; ■eet in height, whoso branches shoot out close to the ground, forming perfect cones, and exhibiting nothing to the eye but deli- cate sprays and brig'it green leaves. The traveler can not fail to have his attention drawn to these beautiful shrubs from the dock of his steamboat. Next to New-Hamburg comes ^Milton Landing on the railway, a viUage which, with Marlborough lying further back, is noted for vast supplies of raspberries, wholly employing one steamboat during the season, for the New- York City market. At Milton, Tlicopliilus Anthony, a blacksmith, helped to forge the chain which was stretched across the river at Fort Montgomery by the patriots in 1777. His grandsons, the Messrs. Gill, sustain a mill on his place, by the old stone mansion. At the mouth of the foaming Winnakee Creek, 75 miles above New- York City, and the same distance from Troy, a pretty Mohegan legend relates that a young Delaware chief, with his bride, found a " safe and pleasant harbor " from pursuing Hurons; whence the name, which is in Indian, Apokeepsinck, now written Poughkeepsle. There are on record 43 different spellings of this name. The city was settled by the Dutch in 1705, contains 17,000 people, and is the third important station on the road to Albany. A notoriously poor restaurant at the depot affords edibles and potables during the " ten minutes for refreshments." The city is partly upon a hill-side, sloping to the river, but chiefly on an elevated plain, back of which is College Hill, whose summit is 500 feet above the town. Here is the College Hill House, standing on the Hyde Park road, 2 miles from the centre of the town : a first-class, admi- rable summer hotel, just opened, with rooms for 50 board- ers. The Morgan House is a first-class hotel on the main street. Within a few miles' ride are Locust Grove, residence I i k I I '* ii ?;' i I 14 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. of Professor S. F. B. Morse, author of the elcctro-majynetic- telerrraph — a beautifully embowered villa ; Vassar College for young- ladies, a splendid and most complete institution, admirable and peculiar in architecture, and the munificent gift of Mr. Matthew Vassar, of Poughkeepsie ; the famous " Business Colleges " of Poughkeepsie, and the Hyde Park road and village, 5 miles distant. Benson J. Lossing re- sides here. llondout is opposite Rhinebeck, which is 90 miles from New- York City. It stands on the Rondout (Redoubt) Creek, 2^^ miles up which is the Delaware and Hudson Canal. The coal business makes Rondout one of the most active places on the Hudson. Rhinebeck was named in honor of the great river of the country whence came William Beekman, the first settler, a sort of Hudson River Penn, in 1G47. The mansion is one of the best specimens of an old Dutch homestead to be found in the Hudson valley ; and several other fine residences attract the curiosity of tourists. Exchange Hotel affords good accommodations at Rhinebeck. Saugerties and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other on the east bank of the river, next attract our attention. Saugerties is a picturesque and prosperous manufacturing village, at the mouth of the Esopus Creek. Rokeby, the estate of William B. Astor, son of John Jacob Astor, was built by his father-in-law. General John Armstrong, who wrote the addresses to the Continental army which came so near producing a revolt, as we saw just now a^ New- burg. The place is less than 5 m.iles below Tivoli. Near it is Saint Stephen's College, a training school pre- paratory to the General Theological (Episcopal) Seminary in Chelsea, New- York City, and established by Mr. John Bard, at an expense of $G0,00O. ■— (; :o-maj?netic- fisar College ! institution, 3 munificent the famous 3 Hyde Park . Lossiug re- miles from doul)t) Creek, udson Canal. 3 most active led in lionor ame William liver Penn, in ' lens of an old 1 valley ; and curiosity of iommodations and tlie other our attention, nanufacturing Bokeby, the ;ob Astor, was •mstrong, who ly which came now a^- New- below Tivoli. Dg school pre- ,pal) Seminary i by Mr. John I ■ ii 'i H ^.1. LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS. 15 A little above Tivoli, Clermont, the former residence of Robert 11. Livingston, the first Cliancellor of the State of New- York, may be seen at Maiden on tlio opposite side of tho river. Besides the eminent public services of the Chaicellor, his fame is connected with that of Kobert Fulton in the introduction of steam navigation. It will be remembered that the Hudson River boasts tho honor of having borne upon its bosom the first successful steam- boat in the world, and it is at this point that we most fitly recall that interesting chapter. Livingston furnished Ful- ton tlie means to carry on his experiments, and the first successful steamboat trip was made by the Clermont (named in honor of Livingston's residence) in the autumn of 1807. She reached Albany in 32 hours from New- York on this first trip ; and thus navigation by steam, which had previously been considered a wild and chimerical pro- ject, became an established fact. Chancellor Livingston died in 1813. Eleven miles north of Tivoli is Catskill Station, where passengers on the railway take ferry for Catskill. The portion of the river included in this region will be found fully described under the title, The Catskill Mountains. The city of Hudson, fourth and last chief station on the railway, is 1^5 miles from New- York City. It is an im- portant railway point, being the western terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railway, which connects Boston with this point by the Western road to Chatham, about 20 miles. On the other side of the river, also, the "Athens cut oft*" is a new extension of the New- York Central Railway, by which the Castleton Bar in the river, as well as some of the distance between Hudson and Albany is avoided, going direct to Schenectady. There is little or nothing of inte- rest to the tourist by the river bank here; the shores, 1/ if 16 LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS I . J (except at tlio Catskilla) have lost tlicir bol(lnc5S!^, and aro henceforth generally low and uninteresting. Hy taking the cars for Canaan, however, on the Hudson and Boston road, the tourist will, in little over an hour, be set down at the railway station, whence carriages will convey him to Co- lumbia Hall, at the famous Lebanon Springs, and Shaker village. (See article entitled Lebanon SrHiNOs.) Coxsackie Station deserves notice as a notable shad-fish- ing place. The shad aro the most important fish of the Hudson, and caught in such immense numbers as to make them cheap dishes for the poor man's table. They enter the Hudson in immense numbers toward the close of March or the beginning of April, and ascend to the head of tide-water to spawn. It is while on their passage up that the greater number and best-conditioned are caught, several hundred being sometimes taken in a single " catch." They generally descend the river at the close of May, when they are called " back shad," and are so lean and almost worthless, that " thin as a June shad " is a common epithet applied to lean persons. The sturgeon is also caught on the Hudson in large numbers at most of the fishing sta- tions. The most important of these are in the vicinity of Hyde Park, and Low Point, near Poughkeepsie. These fish are sold in such quantities in Albany that they have been called, in derision, " Albany beef." They vary in size from 2 to 8 feet long, and in weight from 100 to 450 pounds. The catch commences in April and continues until the latter end of August. The flesh is used for food by some, and the oil that is extracted is considered equal to the best sperm as an illuminator. The tourist may often see them leaping several feet from the water when chasing some smaller fish. Bass and herring are also caught in almost every part of the river. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 17 , and aro 3y taking nd Boston »t down at liiin to Co- ld Shaker IS.) 3 shad-fisli- fisli of the as to make They enter e close of ;o the head passage up are caught, rle " catch." May, when and almost on epithet caught on fishing sta- vicinity of ,sie. These |t they have vary in size 100 to 450 Id continues ised for food |dered equal t may often |hen chasing io caught in Kindorhook, 125 niilcs from New- York, 25 from Troy, was so named {Kinder' 8 hoeck, " Children's Point ") hecauso its first settlor had a very numerous progeny. President Martin Van Buren spent the last years of his life at his country-seat, 3 miles south, calU^d Lindenwold. Castleton is the horribilc locus of the river ; the ovcrslaifgh, as tlio Dutch mariners called the hidden sand-bar, is, at low tide, an effectual damper on the enthusiasm of the tourist, as it is provocative of profanity to the unlearned. There is a bad sand-bar in the river, and the multitudinous efforts to destroy it have all failed, because the next freshet from the mountains will always bring down mud and sand enough to cover up the last excavation. The place is 11 miles below Albany. The city of Albany, political capital of the State of New- York, presents an imposing appearance as you approach it from the south. Standing upon the slope of a hill which rises from the flats to a height of 220 feet, it has not failed to give to its finest buildings the full benefit of position. Among these the traveler will particularly note in his view the Capitol, the City Hall, and Dudley Observatory. There is no good view from the city to the river, as most of the country about this point is very flat and uninterest- ing. Albany is mainly interesting to a traveler as afford- ing an example of how political (and nothing else) a centre of government may become ; but its Dutch history will also prove very entertaining. The city most nearly ap. proaches the cities of Holland, in both architecture, nar- row streets, aristocracy, and even language, of any city on this continent. The old Dutch families treasure up their mother tongue with great zeal, the Dutch language having been until quite a recent date spoken considerably in cer- tain circles. The name of the city was changed from Bever- I 13 I.AKHS, lUVKliS, AND MOUNTAIXS. if ' i ' li I , h wyvk to All):iiiy at tlin sanu) tiin(; tliat Nt'W-York took itH now titlo, (ill plii('(! of Xow-AiiiHterclam,) botli cilicH bcinjj nniiuid for oiio iiuui, Kiiij? James II., thou Duko of both York and Albany. Th(! river abov(3 Albany v/ill liardly interest the touriHt until he eomes to that portion of it notabh) for its falln and other featiiren of a mountain brook. The now brid;^(^ at Troy, nearly a mih? in l(;n(jfth, will attract liis attention, aa also the Uoman Catholic Provincial Seminary of divinity for New- York and New-En (rland, on Mount Ida, opposite Troy; but these are rather points of interest to the busi- ness travtiler than to the tourist, and wo may decline to pass under the arch which divides the pfreat river of the Highlands from the quieter country above. THE CATSKILLS. The Catskill Mountain House, which is the central point for the Catskills, may be reached in 8 to 13 or llj hours from New- York City, by boat or rail, and stage. By rail you leave Thirtieth street at 10 A.M., and reach the sta- tion opposite Catskill at 2.43 P.M., fare $2.35 ; ferry over the river, and Beach's stage line (10 miles, $4) carries you up the mountain to the hotel. By steamboat one may leave the city at 9 a.m. on the Daniel Drew or C. Vib- bard, foot of Desbrosses street ; at 5 p.m. on the Thomas (not Mary) Powell or New Champion, Franklin Street pier, Saturdays, 2 p.m., or by several other lines ; fare gene- rally, $1 to Catskill. Besides the particular stage lino referred to, from the point where the steam ferry-boat lands, carriages and omnibuses take passengers to the village, half a mile distant, or carry them directly to the mountains or elsewhere, as they may desire. The hotels i).)ii itrt U'in^ )t' l)<)tii tourist ills ami Uliilc8 to SuMquelianna ; near Slio- hola tlio road lies on the mountain side, several feet above the river, along a mighty gallery, supported by grand natural abutments of jagged rock. Three miles of this section cost the company $300,000. The region about Narrowsburg is rendered famous in Cooper's Last of the Mohicans; but the scenery is not striking. At Deposit we leave the Delaware River. Summit, 8 miles further, is 1360 feet above the level of the sea. Deposit being 997 feet above, a difference of 309 feet in 8 miles. It is a wild and desolate place. From this point the road descends on a grade of 60 feet per mile for about 8 miles. As the train descends into the valley, there seems no promise of the wonders which are awaiting us; but they come suddenly, and, before we are aware, we are tra- versing the famous Cascade Bridge, a solitary arch, 250 feet wide, sprung over a dark ravine of 184 feet in depth. No adequate idea of the bold spirit and beauty of the scene can be had from the cars. It will richly repay the traveler to come to a full stop and explore the fastnesses of this vicinity. We now for the first time behold the Susquehanna River, a point ranking high in the famous places on the road, and adding to the reasons for delay. The Starucca Viaduct, also, is here, a little over the State line in Penn- sylvania. It is 1200 feet in length, 110 feet high, and has 18 arches, each of 50 feet span ; the whole cost $320,000. A fine painting by Cropsey, representing this great bridge and the valley beneath it, will be remembered as one of the prizes in the notorious Crosby Opera House lottery. A little beyond the viaduct, and just this side (New- York) of Susquehanna Station, the road passes over the Canne- wacta Creek and village of Lanesborough, on a trestle- bridge 450 feet long and 70 feet high. 30 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. Kirkwood, 200 miles from Now- York, in Broomo county, must bo romombered as the birthplace of Joe Smith, the Mormon. Binghamton is a beautiful and healthful city, having a fine view of the river and neighboring country from the hill whereon stands the elegant State Inebriate Asylum of New- York. Owego is notable for similar beauties of land- scape ; and Qlenmary, once the homo of N. P. Willis, where he wrote his Letters from under a Bridge, on the Owego creek. Elmira is a town of much beauty, vhich is more than can be said of Corning, the seat of a State arsenal. The latter is the point at which diverges the Buffalo Branch. Hornellsville, 41 miles from Corning, 332 from New- York, is the third eating-station from the metropolis, and has perhaps the second best saloon in the State. Passen- gers by the night express breakfast here. Beyond this, the main road becomes for the most part quite uninteresting, the country sparsely settled, wild, and desolate. The valley of the Genesee commences just beyond Tip Top Summit, 345 miles out, the highest grade on the road being 1700 feet above tide level. We pass over the Alleghany watershed, or ridge, at Cuba, 378 miles out, and leave the Genesee waters to flow to the At- lantic via the Saint Lawrence, while the Alleghany River, whose course we now pursue, flows down by way of the Ohio and Mississippi to the lower Atlantic, through Gulf of Mexico. From Olean we enter the lands of lue Indian Reservation, 30 miles long by a half-mile on each side the river ; the Senecas own it. Salamanca is interesting or important to the tourist only in view of its awful desolateness, reminding one vividly of Dickens's " Eden," in Martin Chiczzlewit ; and its LAKES, KIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS. 81 ) county, uith, tUe having a from tUo .syluin of 8 of land- >. Willis, ge, on tlie more than mal. The > Branch. Tom New- •opolis, and ,. Passen- touristonly one vividly Ut; and its hrmix tho eastorn torminus of tho Atlantic and Groat WcHtorn Railway. Tho land, low, wet, stumpy, belongs to tho " poor Indian." Dunkirk, 400 miles from New- York, brings us, glad enough, to Lake Erie. NORTH-WESTERN DIVISION. "^n the branch of the Erie Railway diverging from tho uunk in a north-westerly direction to Attica and Buffalo, tliere are few points of interest ; but one of them, particu- larly, deserves special mention. Portage, 363 miles from New- York, 01 from Buffalo, is a village of 1519 inhabitants, located on the Genesee Valley Canal and the Genesee River. In its immediate vicinity are the Portage Falls, three in number, each of which is remarkable for its beauty and grandeur. Tho upper, or Horseshoe Falls, 70 feet high, are about three quarters of a mile below the village. The Middle Falls are about ono quarter of a mile further down the river. Here the water pours in an unbroken sheet into a chasm 110 feet below, which is bounded by perpendicular ledges. A cave, called the Devil's Oven, has been worn into the rocks on the west bank, near the bottom of the falls. In low water 100 per- sons can be seated in it ; but when the river is high, it is filled with water. Two miles below th^ Middle Falls, be- fore reaching the third, the river pursues a winding course between perpendicular walls, across which a man might al- most leap, then descends in a succession of rocky steps almost as regular as a staircase,' dives under a shelving rock, and I descends into a narrow pass about 15 feet wide. Descend- ing perpendicularly for 20 feet, it strikes against the base of high rocks, whirls back, and, turning nearly at right angles, falls into a deep pool overhung with shelving 32 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. .;li, rocks. Sugar Loaf, an isolated mass of rock, 15 feet in di- ameter and 100 feet high, rises from the river-bed at a bend in its course and receives nearly the whole force of the rushing waters. These falls are accessible only from the west side. The perpendicular bank on the west of the river is 380 feet high at one point. The bridge by which the railway crosses the river is the largest wooden railway bridge in the world, built at a cost of $175,000, and stand- ing upon 13 strong stone piers set in the bed of the river, and rising sufficiently above high-water mark to be secure against freshets. Above these piers a timber trestle-work rises 234 feet, on the top of which the track of the road is laid. The bridge is 800 feet long, and is so constructed that any timber in the whole structure can be removed and replaced at pleasure. The first and second falls can be seen from the bridge, and present a grand appearance as they are seen in the distance dashing over the rocks and plunging into the black basin. In some places the rocks of the ravine are 300 feet high, and small streams, trick- ling over the top of this wall, dissolve into blue mist long before they reach the bottom. The Genesee Valley Canal crosses the river on an aqueduct just above the bridge, then, running parallel with the river, passes under the railway bridge on the high bluflf of rocks forming the east bank of the river. The perforations for a tunnel which was commenced and then abandoned, may be seen in dri- \ing from the hotel to the bottom of the ravine. Alto- gether this place will well repay the yipitor who has suf ficient leisure for a stay of some days. The view from be- low is quite necessary to one who would enjoy the full grandeur of the scene. Portageville, the nearest village, is on the west side of the river, 1| miles south of the sta- tion, in the township of Genesee Falls, Wyoming county, LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 33 3ed at a 5 force of »nly from est of tlie t)y which n railway ind Btand- the river, ) he secure :estle-work the road is constructed 3e removed ad falls can appearance le rocks and ,es the rocks •eams» trick- lie mist long alley Canal the hridge, 5S under the ,ing the east Lunel which |e seen in dri- , ravine. Alto- who has sut iew from he- .njoy the full rarest village, ith of the sta- ,niing county, the river here forming the boundary between the two coun- ties. There is a large and good hotel near the station, and another, the Ingham House, in Portageville. Stages run from the hotel to the bridge. Gainesville, 368 miles, is a place of some interest. Good building-stone is quarried in the vicinity ; and at Gaines- ville Creek, 4 milea from the station, a young ladies' semi- nary, accommodating 250 pupils, trains up scholars in the famous Mount Holyoke manner. To the north-east of Gainesville Station is Silver Lake, 3 miles long, the scene of action of the " Kraken," or monster serpent, whose al- leged performances created so much excitement in 1855. Warsaw, 48 miles from Buffalo, is the county-seat of Wyoming county. The village is about a mile east of the station, on Oatka Creek, in a deep valley, on the west slope of which the railway passes through the township at a considerable elevation. Stages run daily to Arcade, in the south-western corner of the county, 25 miles, and to Bata via, the county-seat of Genesee. On the Arcade stage-route is Wethersfield Springs, 6 miles from Warsaw, a place of some importance, and the seat of the " Doolittle Insti- tute," founded and endowed by Ormus Doolittle, Esq. It was the early home of the Hon. James R. Doolittle, of Wisconsin. Attica is on Tonawanda Creek, 392 miles from New- York. The Buffalo Division of the Erie Railway, which diverges from the main line at Corning, and passes through Avon and Bata via, here reunites with the North-western I Division, forming a single line from this point to Buffalo. [A branch of the New- York Central Railway extends from [here to Batavia. The tourist's interest subsides as he approaches a city, md it is only as an individual member of some grade in 34 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. Hociety that he will, generally, travel through the stont>. imved streets. Buffalo, to one seeking rural pleasure, therefore, will cause but little delay. The principal things to see are the Mercantile Library rooms, St. Joseph's (Ro- man Catholic) Cathedral — the most imposing in the State, far superior to St. Patrick's in New- York — the Episcopal church of St. Paul, with its chime of bells ; the grain eleva- tors at the water's edge, etc. Other objects of interest will be found, according to each visitor's idiosyncrasies. The chief hotels are the Mansion, corner of Exchange street, find the Tiffl, farther out, both on Main (the principal) street. The city was founded by the Holland Land Com- pany in 1801 ; burned by the British, 1814 ; every house was destroyed but one, which is still standing near the corner of Mohawk and Main streets. In 1815, buildings were again erected, and in 1825, Congress voted $80,000 for the sufferers. The principal influence in producing the rapid growth of the city was exerted by the construc- tion of the Erie Canal, completed in October, 1825, which has ts western terminus here. Next to New- York City, Buffalo is the most important commercial city in the State. The French, who were its first visitors, named it " Buffle " — English, Buffalo — from the wild oxen which they saw in great droves around. The plan upon which Joseph Elli- cott (who assisted his brother Andrew in laying out Wash- ington City) laid out the streets of Buffalo, is worth noticing. The streets are wide and straight, and generally cross each other at right angles. A few of the side streets, however, en- ter Main street at an angle of 45°. These latter streets, cross- ing the others at their points of intersection, form a large number of places or squares, give variety to the outlines of the city, and destroy the monotony which would have been produced by a rigid adherence to a rectangular plan. !^«; k '^ LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 35 t STATIONS ON OTHER DIVISIONS. Blood's, 331 miles from New- York, 40 from Corning, near the northern boundary of Steuben county, on the Corning, Avon, and Rochester Division, is an important station, from its connection with the Canandaigua Lake route. A daily line of stages runs to Naples, at the head of the lake, and a steamer plies daily between the latter place and Canandaigua. For Avon Springs, see article on Mineral Springs op New-York. Conesus, 348 miles, lies between Hemlock and Conesus Lakes, two beautiful sheets of water. Marrowback Hills, in the eastern part, near Hemlock Lake, rise to about 1200 feet above it. Conesus is widely known as the " Round- Pie Station," from the excellent small round pies long kept for sale at the lunch-room of the station-house. At Livonia, 4 miles further, there is an elm-tree which will interest any admirer of the now destroyed " Pittsfield Elm " in Massachusetts. That venerable tree was 128 feet in height, and for 90 feet was bare of branches. The town is not of special interest. ^ Caledonia, on th^ Avon and Butfalo branch, 59 miles from the latter place, is in the northern part of the most northern township of Livingston county. Settlement made in 1797 ; has 650 inhabitants. At this place, §■ of a mile from the station, is a celebrated spring, remarkable alike for the volume and purity of its waters, and for the great supply of trout originally abounding there, and still kept up by artificial means. The spring is now the property of the veteran sportsman, Seth Green. At Leroy, 52 miles from Buffalo, 381 from New- York, is situated Ingham University, a young ladies' college, for- ' ST 36 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. merly presided over by the Rev. Dr. S. H. Cox, father of Bishop Cox of the Episcopal Diocese in Western New- York, and now under the nominal charge of the Rev. Dr. S. D. Burchard. In the eastern part, south of the creek, is an extensive tract of oak openings, covered thickly with stone, and hard to cultivate. Batavia, Genesee county, 396 miles from New- York, 37 from Buffalo, was settled in the early part of the century. Five branches of the Central Railway converge here — from Albany by Rochester, from Albany by Canandaigua, from Buffalo, from Niagara Palls and Canada, and from Attica. The village has a population of 3000. It was here that the first meeting to advocate the construction of the Erie Canal was held in 1809. The war of 1813 put an end to the agitation of the subject, but it was renewed after peace was proclaimed. The abduction of Morgan, the alleged be- trayer of the secrets of Freemasonry, took place here. He came to Batavia to write and print his work. He made no se- cret of this work, and soon an excitement was raised, during which, under a pretense of taking him to Canandaigua for trial for money loaned him, conspirators carried him off, no one knew whither until long after. The most probable con- clusion was, that the Niagara River or Lake Erie was made his grave. The publication went on under one Miller. A civil war arose, and men armed with clubs met to demolish the office ; but a cannon in the hands of the citizens kept them off until the book was published, when violence ceased. For Oak Orchard Acid Springs, see article on Mineral Springs of New- York. LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 37 THE ADIRONDACK EEGION. The wilderness of Northern New York, commonly spoken of as the "Adirondack Region," is a plateau rang- ing from 1500 to 1800 feet above tide. It is 100 miles in diameter. On the north and east it approaches within 30 or 40 miles of the Canada line and Lake Champlain ; on the south, within 15 or 20 miles of the Mohawk River, and on the west, within the same distance of Black River. It embraces nearly the whole of Essex, Warren, and Hamilton counties, the south-west portion of Clinton, the south half of Franklin, the south-eastern third of St. Law- rence, the eastern third of Lewis, and the northern half of Herkimer. Different portions of it are known under differ- ent names. The northern portion is called the Chateaugay Woods ; the St. Regis Woods lie next below ; then comes the Saranac Region ; then that of Racket Lake ; to the east extend the Adirondacks ; and below, south and south-west- erly, are the Lake Pleasant Region, and John Brown's Tract. We may here note, from Mr. Street's valuable Woods and Waters, (to which, indeed, we are mainly indebted for the facts in this article,) some of the principal routes into the wilderness from Eastern, Southern, and Western New- York. 1. Into the Chateaugay Woods. — 1. From Platts- burgh to Dannemora State Prison, and Chazy Lake, 35 or 30 miles, over a road. 2. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and Chateaugay Lakes. II. Into the Saranac Region. — 3. By steamboat to Port Kent, (or steamboat or railway to Burlington opposite,) on Lake Champlain. Thence by post-coach to Keeseville s V/- ■' »■'■•■ ^ I a: iiii 38 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. (Essex county) 4 miles. From Keeseville 40 miles to Baker's Saranac Lake House, 2 miles short of the Lower Saranac Lake ; or to Martin's, on the bank of the Lower Saranac ; or to Bartlett's, between Round Lake and Upper Saranac Lake, 13 miles from Martin's. The Keeseville road is a good, traveled road, planked from Keeseville to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keese- ville. At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 miles from Keese- ville, the visitor can turn off into a road, through the village of Jay, intersecting the Elizabethtown road, about 12 miles from Baker's. This road leads through the famous Whiteface, or Wilmington Notch. 4. By steamboat to Westport on Lake Champlain. Thence to Elizabethtown, and thence to Baker's, or Mar- tin's, or Bartlett's. This route is about the dame distance as the Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so good. III. Into the Adirondack, Racket, and Hudson River Regions. — 5. From Crown Point, on Lake Cham- plain, to Root's, about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adi- rondack Lower Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake, 20 miles. A stage runs from Root's to Long Lake usually once a week during the summer. From the Lower Works to Adirondack Village or Upper Works, by water, (through Lake Sanford,) 10 or 12 miles ; by road, ditto. From the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus, (Blount Marcy,) 4 miles, and 3 miles to top. From the Upper Works to the famous Indian Pass, (the most majestic natural wonder, next to Niagara, in the State,) 4 miles. From the Indian Pass to Scott's, on the Elizabethtown I idk LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 39 rpper dies ; ^[ount |is, (tlie In the Ltown road, (through the woods, with scarcely a path,) 7 miles ; thence to Baker's, (over a road,) 14 miles. 0. From Glenn's Falls to Root's, over a good road, 30 miles, namely : From Glenn's Falls to Lake George, 9 miles ; thence to Warrensburgh, 6 miles ; thence to Chester, 8 or 10 miles ; thence to Pottersville, 6 or 8 miles ; thence to Root's, and thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or the Upper Works ; or, from Pottersville to the Boreas River, 15 miles. 7. From Carthage, in Jefferson county (by way of the Beach road) to Long Lake, 40 or 50 miles ; thence to Pen- dleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson River Bridge, about 5 miles ; thence to the Lower Works, about 5 miles. Can drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower Works. 8. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake George ; thence to Johnsburgh ; thence to North Creek ; thence to Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake, (the middle of the three Blue Mountain Lakes.) From North Creek to Eagle Lake, 20 miles. 9. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant and Piseco. ^ IV. Into the John Brown Tract Region. — 10. From Utica by railway to Booneville ; thence to Lyonsdale and Port Leyden, 7 miles by stage road ; thence to Deacon Abby's place, S^- miles, over a good road ; thence to Arnold's, (over rather a poor road, although passable by wagon,) 14 miles. The eastern portion of the plateau is exceedingly moun- tainous. Here lies the Adirondack range, or group, tho most northerly in the State, extending in a general north- east direction from Little Falls, on the Mohawk River, to Cape Trembleau at Lake Champlain. This range presents 40 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ;| t Iff' the conical summits cloven into sharp gray peaks peculiar to its hypersthene formation, and attains in some of its peaks more than the height of one mile — the limit of eter- nal snow. These i^eaks are Tahawus or Mount Marcy, (which is the central and talbst, 5467 feet high,) Mount Mclntyre, Mount Saint Anthony, (corrupted to Sanantoni,) and Mount Colden ; they are all generally isolated, sloping some- what moderately toward the north, but precipitous at the south. Otlier summits rise north, south, and west, some equal in height to those named (except Tahawus) and others but little inferior — Dix's Peak, Nipple Top, Blue Mountain, Mount Seward, (a cluster of peaks,) Cove Hill, Moose Mountain, Mackenzie's Pond Mountain, and White- face. The last is the most northern of all the high crests of the wilderness, and hardly inferior in elevation to Taha- wus, being just about one mile high, (5200 feet.) From its summit 30 lakes may be seen. The region lying around the south base of Mount Seward was called by the Indians Cough-sa-ra-geh, or the " Dismal Wilderness." In the middle portion of the plateau the mountains aro generally rounded, and, like most of those mentioned above, waving from base to top with forest. The western portion is pleasantly varied by hill and plain. One great valley shaped like a Y crosses the whole plateau in a north-east direction. It begins at the junction of Moose River with the Black River, continues 70 miles to a point 6 miles south of Upper Saranac Lake, here branch- ing northerly to Potsdam in Saint Lawrence county, and north-easterly to Plattsburg on Lake Champlain. A re- markable chain of lakes and streams extends along this valley and its north-eastern branch, linking, (with a few carries, and with the exception of 20 miles of rapids ? : LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 41 ipids on the lower end of Moose River,) Lake Cliamplain, through the Saranac River and Lakes, the Racket River, Long, Forked, Racket Lakes, the Eight Lakes, and Moose and Black Rivers, with Lake Ontario. The River Saint Lawrence is linked with this chain by the Racket River traversing the northern branch of this valley. 11th. From Utica by railway to Boone ville ; thence to Booth's Mills, 11 miles, over a good wagon road ; thence to Arnold's by pack-horses, (sent by Arnold to Booth's Mills,) 14| miles, over a bad road. 12th. From Utica by railway to Alder Creek ; thence by road to the Reservoir Lakes. 13th. From the village of Prospect (Oneida county, and reached by railway,) through Herkimer county, to More- house, in Hamilton county. 14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racket Riv- er, by railway ; thence to Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence to foot of the Little Bog at McEwen's, on the Racket River, 12 miles, by private conveyance, over a good road ; thence by boat, 1| miles, to Bog Falls ; then a short carry on eafit side of river ; thence to Harris's place, 4^ miles, opposite the mouth of the Jordan River ; thence 3| miles, by wagon road, to John Ferry's; thence 3 miles farther on, same road, to foot of Moose Head Still Water ; thence through the latter, 6 miles ; thence 9 miles to Racket Pond ; and thence 5 miles to Big Tupper's Lake. It should be added here, that two, at least, of these en- trances to the Adirondacks lie upon routes highly attrac- tive in themselves to the tourist. The fourth and last, " into the John Brown Tract region," starts from Booneville, which is upon the Utica and Black River Railway, 18 miles from the famous Trenton Falls, on the same road. (See article Trenton Falls.) 1^ - ft!" I^W»»^PW^W"^!" 42 LAKES, PwlVETlS, AND MOUNTAINS. i f I' I a (I Tho second entrance is made over the plank-road lead- ing from Port Kent, on Lake Cliamplain, to Keesoville. Midway between these two villages occurs tlio Au Sable Chasm, of late years beginning to bo famous, and this spring honored witli several truthful sketches in tho Na- tional Academy of Design. About a mile and a half from Keesoville, the Au Sable River makes a leap of some 30 feet, into a semi-circular basin of great beauty ; a mile further down, another precipice, greatly resembling Niagara in general contour, dismisses the river to a course 150 feet below, amid the wildest scenery. Fol- lowing the stream, now rapidly narrowing, deepening, and foaming, yet further down, we come to the Chasm — a section fully rivaling in grandeur any thing east of the Rocky Mountains. At the narrowest point in the river, where a wedged boulder cramps the channel to a width of little over 5 feet, a great curiosity is noticed in that the walls of the river, varying hereabouts from 90 to 125 feet in height, appear on one side inclined and worn, as though some great torrent had swept over them ; while the opposite wall stands erect and jagged. Still lower down, toward the lake, (Champlain,) the walls stand apart about 50 feet, more than 100 feet high, descending quite to the water's edge, in a sheer perpendicular line, and extending this mammoth canal, with occasional widen- ings, for more than a half-mile. The whole region is awfully grand, and is attracting multitudes of artists every year. The tourist, going to the ^oods, will do well to delay a day at Keeseville, and study this wonderful chasm. The Au Sable House, at Keeseville, is open ail summer, and boasts a very superior table and. excellent rooms. Board, $2 per day ; $8 and upward per week. i! LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 43 Tlio Chasm IIouso is 3 miles from the villain, just by tlio great fall. All the wild animals of our northern latitiulo, the pan- ther, bear, wolf, and wild-cat, are here, with tho moose, deer, fisher, sable, otter, mink, and muskrat. The mooso is the rarest of all. The eagle, the partridge, the loon, the duck, are likewise found ; lake trout swarm in the broad waters, and speckled trout in the cold, clear spring- brooks and rapid streams. Ten or twelve years ago, this wilderness hardly contained a hut or shanty, and was rarely invaded by visitors. But of late the number of sportsmen and exi)lorer8 has gradually but greatly in creased. The trout, however, are as abundant as ever, as are also the deer ; but the latter have grown more timid, and are less certainly found. The shout of the loon, too, now rarely meets the ear. There are no settlements of any size ; but the edges of the wilderness are thinly in- habited by hunters and trappers, who pierce its deepest recesses in their light boats, and act as guides to visitors in summer. The centre of the plateau comprises the region of the Saranac Lakes, the Racket River from Racket Lake to Perciefield Falls, and a tract around Tupper's Lake. In it are found all the distinctive features of the plateau — broad and beautiful expanses of water ; the loveliest river of the forest ; the prettiest cascades ; one of the highest moun- tains, commanding the very grandest prospect of all ; and, save one, the sublimest gorge. The chief and almost the only home of the moose lies within it ; trout swarm in the myriad brooks ; and the deer are as plentiful as in any other spot. II, : ills :ii 4i — 1 ■w&vfvxi 1. AlXXiSt THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY. A Plkasant Uoutk to tiiic Wiuti-: Mountains and Canada. — Thc^ best routo from Now- York to the Wliito Moinitahis jind Quebec is tlinjii^di tbo Connecticut Vulloy. It is 70 inilcH sliorter than tiny other. In leaviujUf New-York for .Montreal, tbo tourist who has no time to spare will tako tbo 12.15 p.m. train, arriving at Si)ringliel(l at G o'clock. Here you bave balf an hour for 8up])er. From Sprinjo^field to Saint All)anH, sleeping-cars are run on all nigbt trains, froinnrtbrou^bwitboutcbanofo. You take breakfast at Saint Albans at G A.M., and arrive at Montreal at 9.30 A.M. Retnrninj?, you leave Montreal at 3.30 r.M,, tako supper at Saint Albans, breakfast at Spring- field, and dinner in New- York. But tbo pleasure tourist will not rusli over tbe ground like tbis. Ho will take tbe New-IIaven and Hartford boat at New- York, and enjoy a deligbtful sail upon tbe Sound. Tbis will allow of leisure for a ramble about Now-IIaven, or Hartford, or botli, and time can well be spent in tliese beautiful cities. Tbe New-Haven House in tbe former, and tbe Allvn House in tbe latter, are tbe best botels, Tbe true point of departure will be Springfield. In proceeding to tbo Wbite Mountains, Lake Mempbre- magog, Quebec, Montreal, Mount Mansfield, or intermedi- ate points, you will take tbe cars of tbe Connecticut IlivcT Bailway, in l^pringfield, >n tbo north side of tbe depot. If you are unacquainted with tbe route, remember that tbe cars going either north or south, enter and leave iho Springfield depot at its western end. Between Springfield and I^ake Mem", ''irtimagog there is no change of cars. An elegantly furn;sh'^d ladies* car runs through both ways on the morning trains. Going tela. pot. hat llie mi\!^. • I Crystal Cascade, White Mountains. ing ^. 'II i i W '■■] LAKES, RIVE US, AXD MOUNTAINS. 45 o north on the train which leaves Springfield at 7.45 a.m., you stop about 20 minutes at Bellows Falls, where you can take dinner at the refreshment-room, or wait until the arrival of the train at White River Junction at 1.15 p.m. At this place you have half an hour for dinner, either in going or returning from the White Mountains. Adjoining the refreshment-room there is a dining-hall, wliere you will find a good dinner. At Wells River, 40 miles from White River Junction, you change cars in going to the White Mountains. From there to Littleton the distance by the White Mountains Railway is 20 miles. From Lit- tleton you proceed by stage to Profile House, 11 miles, and to Crav/ford House, 24 miles. The tourist should bear in mind that the Crawford House is in the White ]>Iountains, and the Profile House in the Fran^onia Mountains. If you call for a ticket for the White Mountains, the agent will give you one to the Crawford House. You will find it to your advantage to purchase one to the Profile House, as this will save you 13 miles of staging the same day. If you leave White River Junction at 8.20 A.M., you reach the Profile House at 1, and the Crawford House at 4 p.m. If you leave at 1.45 P.M., (the morning train from Springfield,) you arrive at the Profile House at 6.30, and at the Crawford House at 9.30. At Lake Memphremagog, 105 miles from White River Junction, and 229 from Springfield, the cars stop at the door of the Memphremagog House, on the shore of the lake. Leaving Springfield at 7.45 A.M., you arrive there at 6.30 P.M. The next morning you can leave with Capt. Fogg on the steamer Mountain Maid, for a trip through the lake, which is 30 miles in length. You can stop at tlie Mountain House, 12 miles from the Memphremagog House, and ascend Owl's Head, which is nearly 3000 fee* 46 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. •ppgSuuds •pjoj^JBH •UDA-BH-^^Jli UIOJ^ 1-1 O oi e3 d a> Q "3 ■ o a u (O > ' i 0) > M g •fH o 1=1 o O c3 . Eh ^ J2 )0 a a to o Wj e3 s 'e3 O I o •CO 1=1 « ^§ 12 00 8 T)5 in o CO J2 o JO CO «o o o CO o JO too o bO B o t a o -^ •(fi c3 u ■*^ a o bD O a fH I !^ -^ •«o u O) a o Xi O) M 1=1 c W 'S C3 en a ■ fH 03 O -M • fH rCt ^^ 13 O W o Ph •OJoqan^Bja OS yi tH T-1 5 00 S t^ 12 CO s CO •ppguoojo »o T-l ? ^ oi T-l T-l • o» JO 00 • 8 •uoj(IaiBq:>iox: o tH o r-l CO tH O CO o r^^ 00 00 s O) 1ft OS OS s s M) O bD a a M d (h O (O "-A CO 00* OS o CO CO -♦J a o 02 is o -tJ cc e3 V E3 O w td m (3 c3 ? g '^^ ''''"'',^^^««.^^'>KOr^T.X.S. above the lalrp f^l^ay, at Shorbroolp 1^ ' *" "'« «™nd Trunk Montreal. '°"'^''' """^ P^'^^'^ thence to Que) ^ or In going to Mount ]\f-.n»fi 1 1 ►summit House. The rpmo,- i ^"^^^ ^ nnles from ■'""Pli-shed on horseback "'" '''' ^^^ -^i^'-nce is a! «IDES ABOUl. HARTF07„^ . , «-;rl)iiry and take; th'^ Htajro to Stowe, 10 miles imrtli- ward. 'V\w siinimlt of MansHeld in H miles iroiii Stowi?, but this is the head.^^^ J' ■*«. sr ■'■ 1 V r ,.^ fi- ; ' .y .f ;<* f*"-' ".-J ^ i 1!**^ ft, \ ^ \ :\ 'i"^ ,' Villi, r,;., A,^^-x<>-'^"-. J jL" J .t'> , I "" ,,V.^ ,.-."•" r^A f'n-ffi^oi,/ 7 1) "r.rii n't'' ' sr II I'll t ill fir ^ I'oni/ii iiii _ Mr iXI'W'' '"""";' ' i ■ '^'Mc '"'/^^'''TfeFACE Mt >,^ c. a-"' '^-r I\y^'i .l/'i III II ^hiirii : ...'^ \ / /'.x. , ^■•""' / / «: li^A'iilillrhiiMy "^ I / .< \rii 1 1\.' :At.i>,i[„.ii,.,. y^ J '•'".'.':,""! ^,jj)ii^^'::h^ .) . ;: ..■ ;::r#|>'/^%^'::p'r \ ^f% cLENf^s fa,llsVJt,? S ' ,,-y'\:F o t ■ — ^■' All o«*^ ^. 1 "" A// ^/,•.^#£. 1) ^i' y/rv' "''• *^ fj-vXi^d, />■/,. r - J Jin /, "^'^'<^:''^, 4 ,. •^''•'■''•'•''''■/^••V.yfM'''''^^ 5>s«*^:,,c>^^' o^'^^le^f^ ...•>" ,.>»''- . ■ (J* •• .. "//fiv/A/i r'«»--, / ^'>,,\_^^ ' ''// -V / /')\l' '''' '■''f' '''■!■ j 1 \ / / /ni i/i fi\0 II t^ I I '•'•''• r,^^\^ .■/,...„., V>''iv>»(//-,/ \\t '' i ■•fi/' lit; ' onr si,,! \o / ^ ^ W g'»-ii^>>.i .Al^.j-/-,.. ~ ^: ^ - - —IT _ ^ y'-. .; ^ ^'"'-"L '')t;:foK'ry^ rutlaind&burliington gR- L 7W ^ , / — ^5^^ V Jinoravrilfor.Afi/ilrloii.'! /^lllI>i•(^t■ lliiift/ -^•--■w*Mr ■ pM ^fW ' 1 !.>■ ■»■ m .»^i»^» ii 1 i »j fcii<< ^^ V*.> ***.•: i'i....L. .-»- , .i Vl.^...^- ^ f I' A "W )\ \ I ■ ttSSi^ \ < y LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTATXS. 61 lii<]fhost rocky cr«;.sts may bo wrapped in mistrt for days in Biiccesaion ; and a travtilor has I'cwer chances of makin«^ acquauitanoo with a bracinjr mountain broozo. The hitter half of Juno is the blossom season of beauty in the moun- tain districts ; the first half of October is the time of its full-hued fruitage." How TO Go. — For tourists whose time or purse will not permit them to journey " across the continent," the White Mountains of New-llampshire are the chief, as they are the most fashionable, of all mountain resorts in tlui United States. They cover an area of about 40 miles square, in Coos county, Northern New-IIampshire, and, under the general title of the " White Hills," two groups of mountains are included ; one, the Mount Washington chain, or the White Mountains proper ; the other, tluj Franconia range, of which Mount Lafayette, 1000 feet lower than Mount Washington, is the highest summit. To these two, the highest ranges of the mountains of New-Hampshire, there are four avenues of approach : the valleys of the Saco, the Merrimack — or rather the Pemi- gewasset, its main source — the Androscoggin, and the trib- utaries of the Connecticut. Railways connect with every one of these natural paths, except the Saco ; and, by each line, one may reach some point among the highest hills on the evening of the same day that lie leaves Boston, or in about 17 hours from New- York. Briefly, the advantages of these several routes are as follows : by the Androscoggin valley to Gorliam, (giving this as the chief point of arrival,) the quickest access to the Mount Washington chain is afforded, (although the Saco Valley route reaches the Notch most speedily,) bring- ing the tourist to the extreme eastern declivities. By the Saco Valley to Weirs, Centre Harbor, or Alton, on Lako r 1 ^" IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l^|28 |Z5 ■ 2.2 ^ 136 W— 2.0 IL25 i 1.4 I m I 1.6 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRECT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 \ 4^ •s^ \\ '^i?' o^ ^ ^ 'f 4^ % ^ 62 LAKES, BIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. W' Winnipisiogee, (pronounced, but improperly spelled, Win* nipesaukee,) the tourist comes to the western borders of the Mount Washington chain by the delightful lakfj- route, the most generally chosen of all the approaches to the whole region. By the Pemigewasset (or Merrimack) Valley to Plymouth, the quickest access to the Franconia chain is afforded, coming from the south-east. And lastly, by the Connecticut Valley to Littleton, the north-western borders of the Franconia chain are reached, with 15 miles less staging than by the Pemigewasset Valley ; or the White Mountain Notch may be reached more quickly by this way than by either of the other three, with the ad- ditional advantage (if so esteemed) that the highest ranges are seen first of all. With this general view of the " lay of the land," we proceed to give the principal routes which may enable the tourist, coming from New- York or Boston, to enter the mountain region by each of the four valleys respectively. And, as most of the routes properly begin at Boston, we may first state, summarily, the best routes thither from New- York City. The finest " Sound steamers" are now the Bristol and the Proviuence, leaving Pier 40, North River, every day at 5 P.M. By these, passengers go as far as Bristol, Ct., whence proceed by rail to Boston, 5^ A.M. Fare, $5; supper on board, $1 ; the same prices on all boats. After these, there are the Fall River boats, 5 p.m.. Pier 28, North River, trans ferring the passenger to railway at Newport, reaching Boston " in time for morning trains." Also, the New-London steamboats, 5 p.m., Pier 39, North River, transferring to the New-London and Northern and the Worcester Railways, thence to Boston in early morning. And, finally, there are two all-rail routes, the Springfield and Worcester line, and the Shore line (two ferries this •^ tlie lis i i LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 63 way) by Now-London and Providence ; both start from Twenty-seventh street depot at 8 A.M. and 8 p.m., (Sun- days, 5 P.M.,) reaching Boston at 4 p.m. and G a.m., (Mondays, 3 A.M. ;) elegant compartment-cars (English style) on day train, and good sleeping-cars at night, at ex- tra charges. Railway fare, $6. Androscoggin Valley Route. — Starting now anew from Boston, the traveler choosmg the Androscoggin Val- ley route will take the Boston and Maine Railway to Port- land, from Ilaymarket square, passing the famous Phillips Academies of Andover, Mass., and Exeter, N. H., on his journey ; or the Eastern Railway f 3m Causeway street, passing through Lynn, Salem, and Newburyport, Mass., and Portsmouth, N. H. — (the two roads unite at ^outh- Berwick, Me.) — or by boat from India wharf daily, (except Sunday,) at 7 P.M. ; or from Commercial wharf Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 8 a.m., to Portland ; thence, by Gland Trunk Railway, to Gorliam, where is the Alpine House ; stage to Glen House. Time by this route — New- York to Boston, say 11 hours ; Boston to Portland, 5 hours ; Portland to Gorliam, 4 or 5 hours ; say 24 hours from New- York to Gorliam. Saco Valley Route. — The favorite lake-trip over Win- nipisiogee has the following varieties, all good : From Bos- ton, by Boston and Lowell and Concord Railways, or by Bos ton and Maine, and Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence Railways, to Concord, N. H. ; thence by Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railway to Weirs, on the lake ; thence by steamer Lady of the Lake, 30 miles, to Centre Harbor Or Wolfborough ; thence by stage ma North-Con way to Glen House. Or from Boston, by Boston and Maine Railway, to Dover, N. H. ; thence by Dover and Winnipisiogee Railway to Alton, steamer Chocorua to Wolfborough and 64 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. I i ;, ( Centre Harbor* stage to North-Conway. The distance from Centre Harbor to the Crawford House, at the Notch, is 63 miles ; Conway is 33 miles from that hotel. Pemigewasset Valley Route. — By the Boston, Con- cord, and Montreal Railway, taking trains which connect with that road from the station either of the Boston and Maine or the Boston and Lowell Railway, the traveler bound for the Franconia Mountains reaches Plymouth, N. H., 120 miles from Boston, a little after noon. Having dined in Plymouth, he takes the stage for the Profile House, in the Franconia Notch, 30 miles distant, which will be reached before sunset. The old Flume House has gone to decay. Connecticut Valley Route. — The same train which is left at Plymouth by those who wish to go directly by stage to the Profile House, will carry passengers some 70 miles north of Plymouth, to Littleton. This village is on the Lower Ammonoosuc River, very near its junction with the Connecticut. The cars that leave Boston in the morn- ing reach Littleton about 5 in the afternoon. From Lit- tleton it is 11 miles to the Profile House in the Franconia Notch, and 23 miles to the Crawford House, near the White Mountain Notch. Other Routes not by Boston. — Of course, there is an endless variety of routes beside the ones already named ; but the +ourist will not thank us for multiplying his portable pages beyond necessity. We may add, to his great benefit, three routes only, which seek the White Mountains by a shorter eastward journey than those which traverse Boston. The first proceeds, by the Boston express train from Twenty-seventh street depot, or by boat and rail through Norwich, to Worcester, Massachusetts, thence direct by the Worcester and Nashua and Concord Railways ! LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTAINS. 65 to Concord, whence he may proceed, as already described, to Weirs, Plymouth, or Littleton, which are distant from Concord in the order named. The second route Sk'arts from Twenty-seventh street also, and proceeds to Springfield, Massachusetts. Here the traveler changes to the Connec- ticut River road, and pursues its connections through Brat- tleboro. Bellows Falls, White River Junction, and Wells River to Littleton. To the tourist who is already familiar with the Hudson, but not yet with the quieter Connecti- cut, this route, (although it can not include the lower river,) following, as it does, the latter stream all the way from Hartford nearly to its fountains, can not be equaled for attractiveness ; and the whole day which it consumes beyond the time of the routes already named will by no means be wasted in its enjoyment. The third route, also occupying two days, is the finest possible of all the list, including the Hudson River trip (see article Along the Hudson for routes to Troy) and that on the Connecticut River, just given, beyond Bellows Falls, beside the beauti- ful mountainous region of Western Vermont. The traveler will reach Troy by rail or boat from New- York, and go thence to Rutland through Eagle Bridge, (it is useless to undertake to say by what road, until the interminable railway quarrels in Western Vermont may be somewhat quieted,) remaining over night ; leave in the morning by Rutland and Burlington Railway for Bellows Falls, and thereafter pursue the course of the route just given. This completes the long list of routes which may be confident- ly recommended. Where to Stay. — Arriving at Gorham, the traveler may make either the Alpine or the Glen House his point of departure for the Mount Washington chain. The 66 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ■< Crawford House is situated upon tlie other (the west) side of Mount Washington. The Alpine House is situated in the valley at the junc- tion of the Androscoggin and Peabody Rivers. The valley is 800 feet above the sea, and its breadth is so great that the air is more dry, pure, and bracing than in the more narrow passes directly under the lofty summits. The pro- prietor is Mr. J. R. Hitchcock. The house may be reached either by Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham or by stage from Centre Harbor ma North-Conway and the Glen, or from lattleton via Bethlehem, Crawford House, White Moun- tain Notch, and Glen House ; or by way of Lancaster and Jefferson, (Waumbeck House.) There is a post-oiRce and a telegraph station near by. Post-oflBce address, Gorham, N. H. The house is open all the year. Terms, $4 per day. From this point there is a fine road all the way — 16 miles — to the Tip-Top House on the summit of Mount Washington. The distance to the base, at Glen House, is 8 miles. Trains arrive at Gorham from Portland at 11 A.M. and 6 P.M. ; leave at 12 midnight and 9 a.m. for Port- land. The Glen House, 8 miles by stage south from Gorham, stands on a plateau, 830 feet above the Gorham valley, and 1632 feet above tide-water at Portland, in the midst of a magnificent mountain bowl. No public house among the mountains is situated so near the Mount Washington range as this, four of the highest summits being in full view, di- rectly in front of the hotel. (The height of Mount Wash- ington is 6285 feet ; Mount Clay, 54O0 ; Mount Adams, 5800 ; Mount Madison, 5361 ; Mount Jefferson, 5700.) Mr. J. M. Thompson is proprietor of the Glen House, and can make room for 500 guests from June 1st till October 16th. There is a telegraph and a post-station in the house. Ad- 5 WiOBHaaSBAii LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOTJNTAtXS. 67 md ^f a the igo I di- sh- IS. in dress, Glen House, N. H. Price of board, $4 per day. Stages leave for the Crawford House and North-Conway at 8 A.M. ; for Gorliam in time to connect with trains. The Notch is on the Crawford road, near that hotel. The as- cent of Mount Washington is now most commonly made from the Glen House and the Alpine House, by the famous carriage-road commenced in 1855 and fully completed in 1861. The average grade is 12 feet in 100, and the steep- est grade in any part, which, strange to say, is about 2^ miles from the base, is 16 feet in 100 for a short distance. The bridle-path formerly went up the mountain side in nearly a straight line, while the road winds around the ledge and up the mountain-side, making nearly double the distance. Most travelers deem the ascent more objection- able than the descent. But in no part is there any difficulty or danger in the ascent, no more discomfort being experi- enced than in the same amount of carriage-riding upon any of the mountain roads. The tariff of tolls on the carriage-road is as follows : For every person on foot $0.32 " " " on horseback, * 80 " " " in carriages, 80 " " snlky with one horse, 6i " " carriage with 4 wheels for 2 persons, 64 " " " with 2 horses and 4 wheels, 96 " " " with4horses, 1.28 For every carriage of pleasure or otherwise, the like sums, according to the number of wheels and horses draw- ing the same. Each person pays the toll for himself in addition to the price for his seat in the carriage, and the proprietor pays the carriage-toll. The Crawford House, 100 rods from the White Moun- tain Notch, and in the midst of a little plateau about 2000 68 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. feet above the sea, is kept by Messrs. Doyle and Hartshorn, proprietors. Post and telegraph offices in the house. Board, $4.50 per day ; accommodations for 250 guests. The hotel is lighted with gas throughout, and all the sleeping-rooms are on the first and second floors. The office is situated in the central part of the house, and generally presents as busy a scene as the great square in a city. Hither every one comes to talk over his plans, and to make arrange- ments for various excursions, or for continuing his journey to other points of interest. One should be careful, as soon as he arrives, to book his name at this place for a horse to Mount Washington, if he intends to make the ascent within a few days, as often all the ponies are engaged for a day or two beforehand. The price of a horse to the summit and back, with guides for the party, is $4 ; the bridle-path is 9 miles in asbent to the Tip-Top House. The steam railway up the mountain is to be completed by the opening of this (1808) season, and its base, 7 miles from the hotel, may be reached over a good road. The nearness of the summit of Mount Willard is one of the attractions at the Crawford ; distance only 3 miles, over a good bridle-path. Stages arrive at the House from Littleton at 5 and 10 P.M. ; from the Profile House at 2 p.m. ; from the Glen House at 5 P.M. ; from North-Conway at 1 p.m. Stages leave house for Littleton at 4 and 10 a.m. ; for the Profile House, at 8 A.M. ; for the Glen House, at 8 A.M. ; and for Conway, at 8 A.M. The. Tip-Top House, including the building formerly known as the Summit House, on the summit of Mount Washington, more than 6000 feet above the sea, is a mar- vel of comfort to the weary traveler who has for hours been longing for its rest and convenience. Mr. J. R. Hitchcock, landlord of the Alpine House, is landlord here LAKES, RIVEE3, AND MOUNTAINS. 00 )use, ray, also, and the house is under the immediate charp^e of Mr. A. II. Pahuer. When we think what a labor it has been to carry all provisions to such an elevation, and that even fuel must be taken up from the forests far below, wo can not fail to admire the forethought and energy that hav(! kept the Summit House so well. Good coffee and tea, with milk, fresh eggs, new and well-made bread, generally fresh meats, as well as excellent ham, and often trout, are found on the plentifully provided table. Those who as- cended Mount Wasliington before there was any shelter on the peak from gale or shower, or driving scud, or snow squall, that often awaited and overtook them, will know how those are favored now who find good protection, fire, and a hot dinner ready on the top. Sheets of paper and envelopes, each with an engraving of the Mountain House and Summit, are on sale there. Letters written there to friends are mailed to all parts of the country by the pro- prietors of the hotel. They drop the summer out of their calendar, and make their home for days above human fellowship, amid lightning and thunder, blinding fogs and sweeping sleet, to offer such service to travelers. The Profile House, a new and large hotel, accommodat- ing 500 guests, open from June 1st to October ICtli, is situated in the immediate vicinity of Echo Lake, (lialf a mile,) Cannon or Profile Mountain, and The Profile, (half a mile,) the Flume and Pool, (6 miles,) and Mount La- fayette, (5 miles over bridle-path to summit.) It is on a level plain, a few acres in area, in the bosom of the hills, and has two approaches : on the north, from Bethlehem and Littleton ; on the south, from the Flume House and Pemigewasset Valley. Terms, $4.50 per day ; telegraph and post-stations in the house. Stages arrive at the house from Littleton at 3 and 7^ p.m. ; from Plymouth, at 7 p.m. 10 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ; and from the Crawford House, at 2 p.m. Stages leave the liouso for Littleton, 7 a.m. and 3 r.M. ; for Plymouth, 7 A.M., (and oftener if desired ;) and the Crawford, at 8 A.M. Tho most attractive advertisement of the Franconia Notch to the traveling public is the rumor of the Great Stone Fa!^e, that hangs upon one of its highest cliffs. If its inclosing walls were less grand, and its water gems less lovely, travelers would be still, perhaps, as strongly attract- ed to the spot, that they might see a mountain which breaks into human expression— a piece of sculpture older than the Sphinx— an imitation of the human countenance, wliich is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out from the corpse strata of New-England thousands of years before Adam. The marvel of this countenance, outlined so distinctly against the sky at an elevation of nearly 1500 feet above the road, is greatly increased by the fact that it is composed of three masses of rock which are not in perpendiccdar line with each other. On the brow of the mountain itself, standing on the visor of tho helmet that covers the face, or directly underneath it on the shore of the little lake, there is no intimation of any human features in the lawless rocks. Remove but a few rods either -vay from the guide-board on the road, where you are advised to look up, and the charm is dissolved. But the whole mountain from which the Profile starts is one of the noblest specimens of majestic rock that can be seen in New-Hampshire. One may tire of the craggy countenance sooner than of the sublime front and vigor- ous slopes of Mount Cannon itself — especially as it is seen, with its great patches of tawny color, in driving up from the lower part of the Notch to the Profile House. Other hotels which are not actually at the Mountains, but Drove to be necessary to the traveler, are as follows, (a .^Uzz: leave the nouth, 7 it 8 A.M. ranconia le Orcat s. If its sms less r attract- a which ire older benance, lied out of years outlined nearly by the L which On the of the it on f any a few where lolved. ,rts is ;an be ■aggy igor- 1 seen, from jiains, ^s, (a \ LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS, n '',1 I list which does not, of course, include all in the region, but may be relied on as accurate and entirely adapted for this summer, as far as it goes.) The Bethlehem House, at Bethlehem, on the stage-road between Littleton (5 miles distant) and the Crawford— pass- ing the old Fabian— IIouso, (17 miles further,) is kept by Mr. K R. Abbott, at $3.50 per day for transient and |8 to $15 per week for permanent boarders. It is reached only by stages, arriving from Littleton at 1 and 6 p.m. ; from the Profile House, at 10 A.M. ; and from the Crawford, at 11 A.M. Stages leave Bethlehem for Littleton at 7 A.M. and 2 r.M ; for the Profile, at 10^ A.M. ; and for the Crawford, at 11 ^ A.M. Accommodations for 200 guests the year round ; post and telegraph stations convenient. The old Fabian House is being rebuilt. The Lancaster House, 16 miles north by carriage-road from Bethlehem, is also open the year round. Proprietor, Mr. E. Stanton ; accommodations for 250 guests ; board, $3.50 per day, or $9 to $15 per week. Bethlehem is a postal station, and there is also telegraphic communication with all points. The Grand Trunk station, connected by stage with Lancaster, is Northumberland, 10 miles to the north- east. Stages arrive at Lancaster from trains from Port land at 1 and 9 p.m. ; from Montreal, at 10 A.M. Stages from Littleton, 20 miles, where the White Mountain Rail- way terminates on the north, arrive at 9 P.M. at Lancaster. Stages leave Lancaster for Portland {via Northumberland) at 6 and 10 P.M. ; for Montreal, at 6 p.m. ; for Littleton and White Mountains Railway to Wells River Junction, at 5 A.M. The location of this house is an excellent one for summer boarding. Good board may also be obtained at private houses in the village for $7 per week. Sumner's Hotel is located at the post-town of Dalton, 72 1 1 k ^•VKKS, BJVBKS, AXB MOU.VTA.Xs. '•n.st(.p Tl.««« • "^ *"<^' Matter anrl h *•« r '""'« aro $3 per day, and «sT /;. ' ^''""«"'' ""d tl.o -f from Littleton' tstt Jn^ f ^' "'^"''- ^"'^-^ Saturdays, and leave for UtZJoT'"' ''''"™''''^-' "'"J The VVau„,beek House, B H ;r„":'^r'''''^«''*«^«' "'« postal station („o te elfpM "f ^V""'''^''''' " "« n»'e« from Lancaster andTf ^ "^"^'"'''"' N. II., 8 Booms for 300 guests, ZrTJ^T ''^^-^-fora II„„'J ""^ek. The hotel is on the Wit ^ ""'' ^' *" ^'^ I'-' from Gorham, (the Alpine l ^T , ^^""^ *^'''""«i'' road ain Notch-a ^^..T^ , "1" *° "^ ^hite Mo„„ "■■•ect road, but one almost alwai;","''^ '™'" ">« ""oat along almost the whole 1 L^J^the T' '"' "'" "='-<^^y that o^er any other «tarrol! """" '' »«">''« ">"« , When Starr King wr^e W Ir/v""^ "'" "^"""ntains. 'anaented the want of a hll 1 ''' ^'"'' '" 1859, he -«, remarking : " There irrcfV" '^'""»''^<='' "- o;- other routes; but for gldeu, !?? *° ''^ «"W<--1 «t studying the wildnessTd 1"; f '"' °PPo«uni.ies range, the Cherry Moun7„ ''^"^ °^ t''" sovereio-n New-Hampshire." iZwZTll'^'''"^' '^ ^'valn ^ite place of resort for t^L^'f «-- - also a favo «g pure mountain air St2l- T '^''''°"« "^ "btaln- ;f the house, is easily ascJnTed? '°""''''"' '" *« - - hotel, With a glass, ^JTonlt „ °* *^^ ^'^^'^ "^ the ">fon can be distLcfly 1"" ~! "^ ^ount Wash- hotel to the White MountaTn lif Ji ''*''°'=^ ^""^ the Profile House, by the way o w^t fi I '' "'"^^ '• *" «- 28 miles; to the Glen House bw^*'"'" ""'' Bethlehem, o^ Madison, .OmUes;toT:tilt,j:^-°^ . '^4 LAKES, RIVKBS, AND MOUNTAINS. 78 ;humber- pom Lan- open all and tlio Sta^ciS ays, and at 6 A.M. or, is at ^. II., 8 House. $14 per ain road B Moun- 18 most scenery er than intains. ^59, he k now njoyed unities ereign ral in favo- tain- rear if the ^ash- the the em, ase THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. ABRIDGED FROM THOMAS STARR KING'S " WHITE HILLS." There are throo paths for the ascent of Mount Wash- ington — one from the Crawford House at the Notch, one from the Whita Mountain House, 5 miles beyond the Notch, and one from the Glen. The path from the White Mountain Ilcfuse requires the shortest horseback ride. Parties are carried by wagons up the side of Mount Wash- ington to a point less than 3 miles from the summit. The bridle-path, however, is quite steep, and no time is gained by this ascent. The rival routes are those from the Notch and the Glen. Each of these has some decided advantages over the other. The Glen route is the short- est. For the first 4 miles the horses keep the wide and hard track, with a regular ascent of 1 foot in 8, which was laid out for a carriage-road to the summit, but never com- pleted. This is a great gain over the corduroy a • "■ mud through the forests of Mount Clinton, which bv^iong to the ascent from the Notch. When we rise ip into the region where the real moun- tain scenery opens, the views from the two paths are entirely different in character, and it is difficult to decide which is grander. From the Notch, as soon as we ride out of the forest, we are on a mountain top. We have scaled Mount Clinton, which is 4200 feet high. Then the path follows the line of the White Mountain ridge. We descend a little, and soon mount the beautiful dome of Mount Pleasant, which is 500 feet higher. Descending this to the narrow line of the ridge again, we come to Mount Franklin, a little more than 100 feet higher than Pleasant, less marked in the landscape, but very difficult to climb. Beyond this, 500 feet higher still, are tlie dou- !f ! iff .• I 74 LAKES, EIVEES, AND MOUNTAINS. ble peaks of Mr ant Monroe ; and then winding down to the Lake of the Clouds, from whence tlio Ammonoosuc issues,' we stand before the cone of Mount Washington, which springs more than 1000 feet above us. The views of the ravines all along thia route, as we pass over the sharpest portions of the ridge, and see them sweeping off each way from the path, are very exciting. And there is the great advantage in this approach to He noted that, if Mount Washington is clouded, and the other summits are clear, travelers do not lose the sensation and the effects produced by standing for the first time on a mountain peak. ' ' -.-■:-'. .• •-/■•-.v -:.,".. '^'':. -/t"i^^^.^'.: By the Glen route we cross no subordinate peaks, and do not follow a ridge line from which we see summits towering here and there, but steadily ascend Mount Wash- ington itself. In this way a more adequate conception is gained of its immense mass and majestic architecture. After we pass above the line of the carriage-road to the barren portion of the mountain, there are grand pictures at the south and east of the Androscoggin Valley, and the long, heavily-wooded Carter range. Indeed, nothing which th<3 day can show will give more astonishment than the spectacle which opens after passing through the spectral forest, made up of acres of trees, leafless, peeled, and bleached, and ridiag out upon the ledge. Those who make thus their first acquaintance v/ith a mountain height will feel, in looking down into the immense hollow in which the Glen House is a dot, and off" upon the vast green breastwork of Mount Carter, that language must be stretched and intensified to answer for the new sensa- tions awakened. We shall never forget the phrase which a friend once used — an artist in expression as in feeling, and not given under strong stimulant to superlatives — as .•<- s. ig down to nmonoosuc '^ashingfton. The views 38 over the i^'eeping off ad there is ted that, if immits are the effects mountain peaks, and e summits unt Wash- nception is chitecture. oad to the pictures alley, and nothing nishment •ough the s, peeled, lose who n height ollow in the vast ge must w sensa- e which feeling, ves — as t Berlin Falls, White MountainB. 'i 1 I .HmiilM^M ■.: M LAKES, RIVBRS, AND MOUNTAINS. '75 he looked, for the first time, from the ledge upon the square miles of undulating wilderness : " See the tumultu- ous bombast of the landscape I" Yet the glory of the view is, after all, the four highest companion mountains of the range, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison, that show themselves in a bending line beyond the tremendous gorge at the right of the path, absurdly called the " Gulf of Mexico," and are visible from their roots to their sum- mits. These mountains are not seen on the ascent from the Notch, being hidden by the dome of Mount Washing- ton itself. On the Glen path these grand forms tower so near us that it seems at first as though a strong arm might throw a stone across the Gulf and hit them. There should be a resting-place near the edge of the ravine, where parties could dismount and study these forms at leisure. Except by climbing to the ridge through the unbroken wilderness of the northern side, there is no such view to be had east of the Mississippi of mountain architecture and sublimity. The first effect of standing on the summit of Mount Washington is a bewildering of the senses at the extent and lawlessness of the spectacle. It is as though we were looking upon a chaos. The land is tossed into a tempest. But in a few moments we become accustomed to this and begin to feel the joy of turning round and sweeping a horizon-line that in parts is drawn outside of New-England. Then we can begin to inquire into the particulars of the stupendous diorama. Northward, if the air is not thick with haze, we look beyond the Canada line. Southward, the " parded land " stretches across the borders of Massachusetts, before it melts into the horizon. Do you see a dim blue pyramid on the far north-east, look- ing scarcely more substantial than gossamer, but keeping ■ ■ i.-iH«»i(m»1»,' 'I'" ' f I i r I i 76 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. its place stubbornly, and cutting the yellowish horizon with the hue of Damascus steel ? It is Katahdin looming out of the central wilderness of Maine. Almost in the same line on the south-west, and nearly as far away, do you See another filmy angle in the base of the sky ? It is Monadnoc, which would feel prouder than Mont Blanc, or the frost-sheeted Chimborazo, or the topmost spire of the Himalaya, if it could know that the genius of Mr. Emer- son has made it the noblest mountain in literature. The nearer range of the Green Mountains are plainly visible j and behinU them Camel's Hump and Mansfield tower in the direction of Lake Champlain. The silvery patch on the north, that looks at first like a small pond, is Umba- gog ; a little farther away due south, a section of the mir- ror of Winnipiseogee glistens. Sebago flashes on the south-east, and a little nearer, the twin Lovell Lakes, that lie more prominently on the map of our history than on the landscape. Next, the monotony of the scene is broken by observing the various forms of the mountains thai are thick as " meadow mole-liills " — the great wedge of La- fayette, the long, thin ridge of Carter, the broad-based and solid Pleasant Mountain, the serrated summit of Cho- corua, the beautiful cone of Kearsarge, the cream-colored Stratford peaks, as near alike in size and shape as two Dromios. Then the pathways of the rivers interest us. The line of the Connecticut we can follow from its birth near Canada to the point where it is hidden by the great Franconia wall. Its water is not visible ; but often in the morning a line of fog lies for miles over the lower land, counterfeiting the serpentine path of its blue water that boimds two States. Two large curves of the Androscog- gin we can see. Broken portions of the Saco lie like lumps of light upon the open valley to the west of Kear- LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 11 ill horizon n looming ost in the ' away, do ky? It is ; Blanc, or )ire of the Mr. Emer- ure. The [j visible ; tower in patch on is Umba- f the mir- s on the akes, that than on is broken that are re of La- ad-based of Cho- colored as two [rest us. s birth e great in the land, T that oscog- e like Kear« garge. The sources of the Merrimack are on the farther slope of a mountain that seems to be not more than the distance of a rifle-shot. Directly under our feet lies the cold Lake of the Clouds, whose water plunges down the wild path of the Ammonoosuc, and falls more than a mile before the ocean drinks it at New-Haven. And in the sides of the mountain, every wrinkle east or west that is searched by the sunbeams or cooled by shadows, is the channel of a bounty that swells one of the three great streams of New-England. And lastly, we notice the vari- ous beauty of the valleys that slope off from the central range. No two of them are articulated with the moun- tain by the same angles and curves. Stairways of charm- ing slope and bend lead down into their sweet and many- colored loveliness and bounty. " ^ The most unfavorable time for visiting the summit is in the noon of a summer day when the air is hazy. There are no shadows then, no wonders of color, no vague reaches of distance. And yet, because the air is genial and the cone is not vailed by mist, such a day is generally ac- counted propitious by travelers. It is better to encounter fogs, or sudden showers, especially if one has never enjoyed before an unobstructed prospect from the peak, than to see the landscape spiritless under a solitary noon. Cloud- effects are the most surprising and fascinating pageants which the ascent of the mountain can disclose. THE DELAWARE WATEE GAP. Brodhead's Kittatinny House is headquarters for the Delaware Water Gap, being beautifully situated on the side of the Kittatinny Mountain, and commanding a view of the mouth of the Gap on one side, and the outline of the Blue Uidge, with the fertile and beautiful valley of the 78 LAKES, RIVEUS, AND MOUNTAINS. I ;1 Delaware, on the other. The season here is always a gay one, {ind the hotel is ever filled to overflowing. Winging away from New- York by the Central Railway )f New-Jersey, leaving the city at 9 a.m., connecting with ihe Delaware, Lackawanna, and Western Railway at the Junction — or by the Delaware and Belvidere road from Philadelphia, the tourist finds himself, after a ride (through wild and startling scenery) at a fearful rate of speed around the base of the mountains, safely lauded, and, at scarcely 1^ o'clock, at the little station at the foot of Kittatinny Moun- tain. Stages are ready at the depot to convey guests to the Kittatinny House, and a few moments' ride over the steep, winding road, and one is standing on the piazza, greeting friends, or rushing madly toward the office to secure a *^om or a place to hang up. If you fail of accommodation at the Kittatinny, tempo- rary sleeping accommodations may be obtained at the little Senape House, opposite the depot — a house, by the way, which can barely be styled a trap to catch travelers, where the landlord "doesn't take lodgers for Brodhead when the Kittatinny is full" — and whose husk mat- tresses and straw pillows would be fully indorsed by any prison superintendent or almshouse commissioner. The company at the Kittatinny is quiet but select ; and while there is no lack of amusement — hops on Saturdays and excursions every day — with an occasional *•' fair for the church," in one of which, on a Wednesday and Thursday of last summer, they realized over $1100 for the benefit of the Presbyterian chapel, there seems an air of comfort and sociability seldom or never met with among hotel peo- ple, except at the Water Gap, or at some such secluded and semi-occasional retreat. ' Folks here take it quietly and respectabV. There is LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 79 plenty to see, and one can either take plenty of time to 3ee it in, or lie can run the whole gauntlet of the sights in the immediate vicinity between Saturday morning and Mon- day noon, and yet carry away a complete and satisfactory idea of the Delaware Water Gap and its surroundings. " Squire Jones," with his pretty skiff, the Minnehaha, is always ready to show Water Gap and the river, where, he the climbing fever at its height, one can go with the guide up the rugged and dangerous pathway full 1600 feet, and, standing on the ledge, out of reach of the chilling current of air from the valley below, obtain a view of moimtain scenery sufficient to last him a lifetime. Or, take a rest- ing-place some 300 feet from the base of the Jersey Moun- tain, with 80 feet depth of green water flowing at its base, the twin giant of the Pennsylvania Mountain, shaped like a huge elephant, rising on the opposite side of the gap, with the brown, forbidding ledges standing out upon its rugged sides, and the serpentine train of coal-cars winding slowly abound the base, the train so long that the engine is lost from view on cne side of the curve before the red flag signal car at the end of the train is fairly in view from the other end of the curving roadway. The places of interest to be seen about the Water Gap and hidden away among the mountain paths, are, many of them, connected with the earlier history of tlie region ; and the number of Indian legends told with the history of the spear-heads and antique stones in the hotel ofiice, and of ancient date, are many of them, doubtless, of rather more than ancient veracity. Still they are legends ; and the places of Indian history are to be seen and to be ad mired ; and a more distinct and comprehensive idea can be had by walking through the mountain paths and over the ledges of rocks, with the aid of Mr. Brodhead's photo- 80 t ri' [/ 5 I.AKE8, EIVEBS, ANB MOCOTAINS. grapliically illustrated GuitU> n..i. .,, «->jW of carriage ,^,,^-^^^-^^^^^^^^ '>y an tofl„Ue Tl>e one great drawback to lit! ^cursioas. ^^ater Gap as a PopuCL ^^ ^1:' *'"' ^•'"'-- datmg spirit of the railway complv B^ "°"-''«''«™"«'- «ach way, and no other means <^T "'"' *'"''' " ^'^V 'vorld at large, and the gr^at ciLr°"'"''^"°'> ^''"^ "'« "ews at all on Sunday nullirr '" ^'"'''"'''^' '^'^ »« Of «uch a place and ^.iT^S^J "' *'*' '"'^"'"«^«« Mr. Brodhcad intends an «! ^ "'* '"'""^ed that from WYork, and to i:^";™; '" ^^ ^^^^^ -' npon the controlling spiSs 'I trr , '"''"'' «"««"''" Among the guests at the holl '^'^''^''""a Bailway. Yo'-k people, who take the ^ul^" "'"''"^ ""'"^ ^«^- Having done the Water qZ '" "^ '^"''" '^»^- can be done in a day or two H "''f* ^'^^^' *" "^ " "'at W" region shall be neL^l \"'"^ '"'"'^^ "''''^ ^chuyl splendid valley of the 1'™'/°^' «" «-' -"« the ta3>ce as we are approacwTLL "'? "'''' '" *^« "^i- ^ountains with their ledgef^!f if '^'^^' """^ *« ^^m old merging themselves into he Wue'l '""° *'°°« ^-' we take leave of the Wat^R ^ ""' ""^ *^'« distance and the falls, and w '^7;*^ ''"'^''Mhe Kittatinny ~y about the ^^.Z^SZL^Z' '"^^ 4rtTytsT:rre"^tefiTv''**" ^''P' --J *»« leave the sullen-looking [wfn l!tl^'"f ^ ^ «""««. -« -- the Lackawanna road WaTseTvif '"'' ""' ^^^^ Following the winding coarse Jti: r '^ *"•!.• oil-clotli coats and hats, received most gratefully his sug- gestion of * thick boots being just the thing/ and went up into the dirty, ugly-looking breaker, seeing the whole thing from the platform where the cars are unloaded of their large blocks of coal, down the steps leading to the screen for making the various sizes, creeping under the wooden pipes arranged for washing the chestnut and pea coal, and then down upon the raihvay beneath, whence the cars are loaded for the ' landing.' " Committed to care of Billy, the * Inside Boss/ whom we found to be a pleasant, chatty old fellow, with flaxen hair, and a bright, twinkling eye, and decidedly foreign accent, wo stopped at the entrance of the mine. Agreeably to Billy's suggestion to get fresh oil in our lamps, as the con- sequence of groping around in the darkness of a coal mine, with an extinguished lamp, might not be pleasant, we fol- lowed him into the opening before us, boldly enough at the outset, but rather more slowly and cautiously after a moment's walk, as the faint glimmer of daylight from the opening was soon lost in the solemn and awful blackness of the path before us. The sensation, too, of cold, almost suflBcient to cause a chilling shudder, and the sound of water splashing about our feet and trickling down from the roof above us, and down the sides of the ' gangway, ' were not well calculated to inspire confidence in the route we were about to travel. A short distance in the mine, we became accustomed to the dampness, and began to see measurably well, by an attentive pulling up of the cotton on our lamps, and a little straining of the eyes. " One of the prettiest effects was the glow and dazzling brilliancy of the lamps on the miners' hats, some distance ahead of us, as they bobbed up and down in the darkness, 4ind we were enabled to detect the motions of the miner 86 LAKES, RIVERS, AND arOUNTAINS. i: f J * by the rising and falling", and j umping about, of tlie little star of flame fastened on his cap. " Further in, we were pulled aside by the guide to allow a lumbering mule-train to pass, and then, climbing up through a hole scarce large enough to crawl into, we were standing upright in a vaulted cavern, with roof, floor, and sides of glistening coal, with tlie light of our uplifted lamps tlirown back in hundreds of sparkles from the sharp and glistening corners of the newly fractured ' Locust Moun- tain.' " These openings, which are known as ' brearjts,' vary in area from 150 to 180 feet, and are known by the technical name of * runs,' being openings where the coal is worked by blasting and picks, aside from the main gangways — and are formed by working the veins from the lower stra- tum of slate upward, in the direction of the purest vein, through the second layer of slate wliich lies above it. Leaving the ' breast,' and still following the course of the rail-track in the gangway, a glimmer of faint blue light was seen on one side, and we were cautioned to hold our lamps high to avoid the current of fresh cold air searching down into the mine from the long and jagged excavation for an air-hole, with a patch of daylight looking no longer than one's hand. Through this we were respectfully invited to creep on hands and knees, following Billy, if we saw fit, and were reassured we would find ourselves on the side of the mountain, a long walk's distance from the opening. " As we advanced, the way became more difficult in tra- veling, and we were fully aware of the necessity of care in looking above as well as on the sides, from one or two un- ceremonious bumps from the overhanging masses of coal. The * breasts ' were still to be seen, though smaller — but ^ »Wk.. AINS. LAKES, KIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS. 87 lit, of tlie little guide to allow 1, climbing' up 1 into, we were roof, floor, and uplifted lamps the sharp and Locust Moun- pea:ts,' vary in the technical eoal is worked 1 gangways — the lower stra- e purest vein, lies above it. course of the int blue light to hold our air searching ed excav^ation ng no longer respectfully ing Billy, if ourselves on nee from the flScult in tra- ity of care in e or two un- sses of coal, mailer — but the veins of coal became deeper and purer, and the marks of heavy blasts in the solid coal were visible on each side, while an occasional sensation of fatigue and a slight dif- ficulty in breathing gave good cause for heeding our guide's admonition, ' Take it easy till the end of the gangway, and save your breath for the tramp back.' *' Glad to find ourselves at the end of the path, and aston- ished to learn that we had walked nearly a mile under ground and into the side of the rugged mountain above us, we retraced our steps, following Billy with slow and cau- tious tread, but yet with no sign of daylight, and the little twinkling stars of the miner's lights a long way off, doubly brilliant in the increasing damp and darkness. " Again we pass the mule train and the group of miners, but were not allowed to do so till we had ' paid our footing' to the men — a custom, we believe, to which all visitors are subject, but which the most knowing ones generally con- trive to make a light taxation. Having paid tribute, we were allowed to proceed, through gangways closed by heavy wooden doors, to arrange and secure a good circu lation of air ; and then to the second opening, now being * driven ' — making a steep slope, where the track is being laid for an almost perpendicular descent into the mines, at the intersection of the side veins and the present gangway ; and finally found ourselves, tired, cold, and dirty, with dim- ly burning lamps and sooty faces and hands, again in day- light, at the opening of the * drift,' or main entrance. "Heeding Mr. Conner's injunction not to take off the coats too suddenly after the cold temperature of the mines, we thanked old Billy for his courtesy, sent our regards to his good old woman, the mother of fifteen children, boys and girls, as he had taken occasion to inform us ; and then climbed up the hill to the opening of the * Buck Mountain 88 LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. .» t H ! I. f Vein ' Colliery, soon to be in operation, secured specimens of * peacock,' or variegated coal, and washed off at the cooling spring at the Manor House — having taken a trip underground that your correspondent doesn't care to take often, yet, having taken it, does not regret, and, with a pleasant ' good day' from the Superintendent, rode hack, tired and damp." HARRISBURG AND VICINITY. ^ The natural scenery of Pennsylvania is unusually diver- sified and beautiful. About one fourth of her territory is occui)ied by mountain ranges, some of which are at least 2000 feet above the level of the sea. These ranges of mountains extend over a breadth of 200 miles, including many fruitful valleys and charming waters, and iron and coal deposits that are unequaled in any other State in the Union. From New- York City the most direct route to Pennsyl- vania, is via the Central New-Jersey or AUentown Railway, from the foot of Liberty street. By stopping at th-e Junc- tion, 59 miles from New- York, and taking the Delaware and Lackawanna cars, the tourist may reach the Delaware Water Gap, whose wondrously beautiful scenery is worth looking at, (see article thereon,) or may proceed to Scran- ton and Wilkesbarre, in the Valley of the Wyoming, on the north branch of the Susquehanna River, and at leisure explore the surrounding coal-fields or review the scenes of Campbell's exquisite poem of Gertrude of Wyoming. If the tourist desire to reach the more central or south- ern parts ot the State, he may continue in the Central New-Jersey cars to Easton, a thriving place at the forks of the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers. About 18 miles west of Eas-ton is the quaint Moravian village of Bethlehem, INS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOU.NTAINS. 89 red specimens 3d off at the : taken a trip 't care to take t, and, with a nt, rode back, usually diver- er territory is li are at least 3se ranges of les, including and iron and r State in the to Pennsyl- )wn Railway, at th-e Junc- le Delaware le Delaware ery is worth ed to Scran- /"yoming, on tid at leisure he scenes of ming. al or south- he Central he forks of miles west ethlehem, founded by Count Zinzendorf, in 1741, and containing a church capable of seating 2000 persons. A few miles west of tliat is Allentown, built upon high ground near the Le- high River. There are mineral springs there which are greatly prized for the efficacy of their waters. Reading, the gieiit centre of the iron interest of Penn- sylvania, is but 20 miles beyond Allentown. It is a thriv- ing city, situated in the midst of a very interesting land- scape, with railways leading to the surrounding coal and iron mines, which carry to her doors veins of inexhausti- ble wealth. Harrisburg, the capital of the State, is 54 miles west of Reading by railway, on the east bank of the Susquehanna River. From the dome of the State House an extended view can be had of the winding river, its beautiful islands, its numerous handsome bridges, and the surrounding mountains. Taking Harrisburg as a centre, the pleasure- seeker will find a variety of resorts to choose from, either or all of which will prove attractive. Toward Pittsburg he will find Mifflinton, Lewistown, Huntingdon, Hollidaysburg, and Altoona, all east of the Alleghany Mountains, and in the beautiful and picturesque valley of the Juniata. If he affects the grand and rugged in mountain scenery at high altitudes, let him go to the Summit, where unequaled panoramas of God's works will reward his effort ; and if i»t please him, he may examine the result of man's labor in subduing nature to his uses in constructing the inclined plane for transporting merchan- dise across the mountain. Or, from Harrisburg he may proceed by railway directly • up the Susquehanna River to Sunbury and Northumber- land, two quiet villages, surrounded by beautiful scenery, and thence up the West Branch to Lewisburg, Milton, 90 LAKES, KIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ! I ( r ^ f V Williamsport, and Lock Haven, all of which have great at- tractions for the tourist. Starting again from Harrisburg, we cross the Cumber- land Valley Ridge and proceed direct tu the ancient town I of York, thence to Swiser's Station, and from thence to Gettysburg, where the decisive battle of the rebellion! was fought. The National Cemetery and battle-field will always prove attractive to the visitor. Katalysine Water is also dispensed at Gettysburg for the cure of invalids. Starting for the fourth time from Harrisburg, we take the Cumberland Valley Railway and proceed to Carlisle, a pleasant town; the seat of Dickinson College, an excel- lent institution, under the care of the Methodist denomi- nation. Here, too, the United States has a barracks for training troops, which, before the rebellion, was commanded, by General Lee, who was, therefore, enabled to familiarize himself with the strategetic points of the surrounding country. Thirty-one miles west is Chambersburg, which, previous to the war, was regarded the most beautiful town of the State. It received the particular attention of the rebels, who set fire to it, and consumed tw i millions of dollars' worth of property. It has since been closely re- built, wearing the appearance of a city rather than that of the rural village of the past, with fine houses surrounded by beautiful flower and vegetable-gardens, and all the evi- dences of material comfort. Mine host of the National Hotel will make all guests comfortable, and visitors will find that the vicinity abounds in beautiful scenery, with most superb roads for riding and driving. At the base of the neighboring mountain, valuable mineral springs are much patronized by invalids seeking health. A very few miles west of Chambersburg is Mount Parnell, from which most extended views of the adjoining villages may be . r A.1NS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 91 [i have great at- ss the Cumber- le ancient town from thence to f the rebellion battle-field will ialysine Water e of invalids. sburg, we take eed to Carlisle, >llege, an excel- hodist denomi- a barracks for vas commanded id to familiarize le surrounding irsburg, which, beautiful town tention of the |wi millions of leen closely re- er than that of les surrounded ,nd all the evi- tlie National visitors will scenery, with t the base of 1 springs are A very few .1, from which lages may be had. In a clear atmosphere the scene is said to be beau- tiful and grand beyond description. WILLIAMSTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS. Williamstown is tho last village on the north-western border of tho State of Massachusetts, being only 2 miles distant from Pownal, Vermont, and about the same dis- tance from the New- York lino. Beautiful as a village, lesting upon and between two hills, and surrounded on all sides by the magnificent Berkshire mountains, it is most attractive as a point of departure for a great number of delightful retreats, out of the dry and dusty track of the professional tourist. It stands at a considerable altitude, and boasts the purest of mountain air — a great inducement to the young men who flock from all sections to the ancient college situated in and giving name to the village, founded under bequest of Colonel Ephraim Williams, in 1785. The Mansion House, A. G. Bailey, proprietor, is at present the only public house ; though limited facilities for obtain- ing board in private families exist. The hotel is open the year round, and can accommodate 125 guests. Commence- ment week at Williams College comes with the first Wed- nesday in August, after or before which the place is plea- santly quiet. There are telegraph and mail facilities. Terms at the hotel, $3 per day for less than two weeks, and $10 to $15 per week by the season. Williamstown may be reached from New- York by at least 9 rlifferent routes, the best of which are : by People's Line steamers to Troy, arriving 6 A.M. ; Troy and Boston Rail- way to Williamstown direct, arriving at 10 o'clock — stage to hotel 1 mile : or by Hudson River or Harlem Railway, etc. : or by New- York and New-Haven Railway, 8 a.m., to Bridgeport; thence by Housatonic Railway (through the ^■^^W^WWIlffTT li. i ! ( 1 ! I '■i I 02 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. beautiful valley of that name) to Pittsfield, 5 P.M. ; Pitts field and North- Adams Railway', 20 miles, 3 hours; staof( from Adams to Williamstown, 5 miles, arriving at Mansion] House 8^ P.M. Fare by the New- York route, river (witlil berth and meals on boat) and rail, $4.95 ; by Housatonic, not over $5, purchasing tickets at New- York for Pittsfield, | and at Pittsfield for Williamstown direct through. The chief attractions of the neighborhood of Williams- town are as follows : To those disposed or obliged to confine their wander- ings near headquarters, there is Williams College with its ancient and classical memories, geological museum, gym- nasium, (affording excellent bowling privileges, generally available,) and library ; Flora's Glen, s, pretty enough ram- ble up the wooded banks of a mountain brook, where the poet Bryant, when a Sophomore in college, wrote Hiana- topsis; Sand Spring, a chalybeate bath, 2 mUes on the Pownal road; and some fishing in the Green river or rivulet, ^ of a mile from the hotel. To the more active visitor there are equal attractions : Snow Hole, a rugged mountain ride of some 10 miles, to a great fissure where stubborn snow delights the eye in any month of summer ; the " great bore of Massachusetts," Hoosack Tunnel, the American rival of Mont Cenis, 4 miles long — (to be and to be finished — when ?) distant about 7 miles, a little beyond North- Adams ; the Revolutionary localities on the road thither, not to add the great paper and woolen factories ; the Natural Biidge ; the Cascades, a beautiful silver thread of water falling 30 feet, half-way to Adams ; but chiefly, the ride and visit to Lebanon Springs (Shakers) and Sliaker Village, 20 to 30 miles to the south-east, and the grand mountain scenery. Perhaps the easiest mountain to ascend which commands a great view is Berlin, reached 'AINS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 93 d, 5 P.M. ; Pitts- 2 hours ; stage; ring at Mansion ute, river (with by Housatonic, 'k for Pittsfield, liroug^h. )d of Williams- ) their wander- college with its museum, gym- eges, generally by enough ram- •ook, where the , wrote Thana- \ mUes on the jfreen river or le more active lole, a rugged fissure where ,h of summer ; Ik Tunnel, the (to be and to little beyond on the road |len factories ; silver thread but chiefly, hakers) and east, and the st mountain frlin, reached by a very precipitous carriage-road of about 10 miles in all from the hotel. The neighboring peaks, from 2500 to 3500 feet high, and the interjacent valleys, afford miniature Alpine views, too, and the outstretched landscape of Massa- chusetts adds the needed beautiful contrast. Greylock Mountain, distant 4 miles, difficult of access, is the highest peak in Massachusetts, 3500 feet. It is commonly consid- ered inaccessible for ladies ; but gentlemen form parties and camp out over-night on its summit, enjoying a peculiarly fine view at sunrise. Much of the ascent of the mountain itself must be made on foot, though the roads to the base are fine. There was formerly a tower on the top, now wantonly destroyed ; but with little difficulty the tree-tops are surmounted to obtain the far-reacliing view which richly rcj)ays every beholder. THE RUTLAND AND BURLINGTON RAILWAY. In the article entitled Williamstown, Mass., we call attention to the charming rural scenery which one may enjoy in every direction from that village as a centre. The route thither diverges at Eagle Bridge from the great northern trunk route of travel. This latter we now pro- pose to pursue as foT as Burlington, whence the sketches of Lake CnAMPLAiN and Mansfield and Memphrema- GOG will direct the reader northward through the remain- der of the State of Vermont. Bennington. — The town of Bennington is situated in the south-western part of the State of Vermont, adjoining the New- York line on the west, and with only one town (Pownal) between it and the Massachusetts lino on the south. It derives its name from Benning Went worth, provincial governor of New-Hampshire, and the grantor of the charter under which, in 1761, the town was originally i>y ]■ ■u I I- 1' 94 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. orfvanizcd. There arc at present three villapfes in the town, containing, in 1800, with tlio remainder of the town, 4392 inhabitants. The oldest villajQfo, now called Bennhi^ ton Centre, is the Benninp^on of Kcvolutionary farno ; the village now known by that name not having come into existence till many years later. These are 1 mile apart, and are about 5 miles from the other, North-Bennington, also a comparatively new village. Bennington is more than 800 feet above tide-water, and being so close to the mountains, is, to one accustomed to the heat of the city, never hot. The thermometer seldom rises to 90, and this only for a few days at a time. The nights are almost invariably cool, the mercury sinking rapidly with the sun. Among the many objects of interest in the old village, is the once famous " Catamount Tavern," where the " Coun- cil of Safety," the then only government of the State, held its sittings ; the " Council Room " being still preserved intact. The tavern took its name from a stuffed catamount grinning defiance at neighboring New- York from the top of a pole in its front. New- York and New-Hampshire at that time both claimed jurisdictioi_ over the territory which was then known as the New-Hampshire Grants. The inhabitants acknowledged allegiance to New-Hamp- shire, but denied in most emphatic terms the claims of New- York ; so there was a quarrel which lasted almost from the first settlement of the State until it was admitted into the Union, in 1791. To defend their claims against New- York, the " Green Mountain Boys " were organized, with Ethan Allen as their leader. Here, at "Landlord Fay's," they had their headquarters, Allen's house being the next adjoining, and still standing. Under Allen's lead- ership they became famous, and soon after the outbreak of hostilities with Great Britain, were organized into a regi- AINS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 95 t'illapfes in tlio Icr of the town, called Bennhiff- mary fame ; tlic ving come into re 1 mile apart, rtli-Bcnnington, ington is more so close to the cat of the city, I to 90, and this :hts are almost ly with the sun. le old village, is ere the "Coun- ' the State, held still preserved ifFed catamount •k from the top v-Hampshire at the territory psliire Grants. o New-Hamp- tlie claims of lasted almost was admitted claims against ere organized, at "Landlord Is house being T Allen's lead- le outbreak of kd into a regi- mcnt, with Scth Warner as colonel, anci, conjointly with Stark's troops, won the Battle of Bennington, August 10th, 1777. The battle-ground is not in this village, nor, indeed, in the town of Bennington, nor State of Vermont, but in Iloosack, the adjoining town in the State of New- Yolk. It can be distinctly seen from the Observatory mentioned hereafter, and the exact spot is pointed out where John Stark stood when he made the famous address to his troops : "See there, men ! there are the red-coats ! Before to-night they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow I" ISIount Anthony is the chief natural object of interest in this vicinity. It stands 3 miles behind the Mount Anthony House, on a by-path, and 4| miles by carriage-road. A to^ver was erected on the summit in 1864, 100 feet high ; from this, one of the finest views of Vennont is to be had. There are accommodations for man and beast at this obser- vatory. Bennington also boasts fine drives, among which Peters- burg and Prospect Mountains are sought, affording delight- ful views. On the road beyond Prospect, at Woodford, we nass the Big Pond, a beautiful sheet of water. Just above it, on the first eminence of the road, we cross the water- shed dividing the valleys of the Hudson and the Connecti- cut, at a point 2600 feet above tide- water. Besides these attractions, there is good trout-fishing in the Green Mountain streams hereabout. Chief hotel, the Mount Anthony House, Messrs. Rogers & Nutting, proprietors ; rooms for 200 guests ; trains "3 times daily; station distant 3 minutes' walk. Time to Troy, 1 J hours. Route from New- York, Hudson River by boat or rail to Troy ; thence to Bennington, by Troy and Boston, etc. Manchester. — The village of Manchester dates from If'^ isiM ill )\ I, 1 1 90 LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTATNS. tlio year 1701 , and boasts many brilliant Revolutionary me- mories, which form a pleasing contrast to its present quaint and quiet ap[)earanco. It is situate in a valley between th<^ (Jreen and P^tjuinox mountain ranges, distant 50 miJ ^s north from 'J Toy, 80 south from Rutland, and 40 north-east from Saratoga, on the Bennington and Rutland Railway. The plcasantest methods of approach from New- York City are by the 10 A.M. train from Thirtieth street, or the People's lino steamboat, at 6 P.M. ; fare, about $G. During some portion of last summer, an unpleasant change at Iloosack was made necessary by the railway quarrels common to Western Vermont, and passengers were compelled to reach Bennington from Iloosack (4 miles) by horse-cara ; but these annoyances are seldom left without speedy settle- ment. The village is quiet and beautiful, particularly notice able for its white marble pavements, taken from the abounding quarries near by. The telegraph and mail facilities are complete, and the stranger finds excellent provision for rest and refreshment at the Equinox House, situated at the base of Equinox Mountain ; this hotel is open from June until December, The chief attractions of Manchester are in its mountain scenery, its fishing and drives, etc. The " Equinox Com- pnny" has stocked several artificial ponds half a mile from the hotel with trout ; and besides these, several natural lakes afford a variety for the angler. The village and all its environs boast fine roads, among which is one leading to the house upon the summit of Mount Equinox. Mount Dorset is an almost wholly isolated peak of tlio Green Mountain range, 5 miles north of the village. Its eastern side is dotted wdth valuable quarries of white mar- ble; the south is noted for an extensive cave, contain- LAKES, RIVERS, AND SIOUNTAINS. 97 )lutionarymo- >re8ont quaint y between tln^ 50 miJ ^8 north :)rtli-ea8t from ailway. Tlio York City are r the People's During some rro at Iloosack l8 common to )ellecl to reach ^rse-cars ; but speedy settle- cularly notice en from the ,ph and mail inds excellent [uinox House, this hotel is its mountain ^quinox Com- If a mile from reral natural lllage and all one leading lOX. [peak of the Tillage. Its If white mar- Lve, contain- ing five chambcn-s, three or four passages, a spring of water, etc. Stratton Gap in a beautiful gk'n following the precipitous course of a rivulet, made memorable by Mr. A. B. Dunvnd, of New- York, in one of his finest paintings. But the crowning glory of the place is Mount Ecjuinox itself. From its summit, 2917 feet above the village and 8813 above tide-water, may be seen, upon clear days, Lakes George and Cham plain, the Franconia (and Kear- sarge) Mountains of New-llampshirc, Graylock, tl:<' Lighi^st peak in Massachusetts, Killington Mountain, third in Ver- mont, and the Catskills, and Saratoga Village, in New-York. Half-way up the southern side is a table-rock, affording a fine view of the subjacent valley ; and on the southern side is Skinner Hollow, a deep indentation in the moun- tain, appearing like a vast amphitheatre, containing far within its recesses a marble quarry, a cave which holds the winter snow throughout the year, and a stream which mysteriously seeks its outlet through a neighboring cavern. These, with other attractions in nature, render Manchester a very pleasing and popular resort. PouLTNEY. — The village of Poultney, of some 2200 souls, on the Rutland and Washington road or division, 67 miles from Troy, affords many attractions as a summer retreat. The gravelly soil renders the roads for miles in all directions superior for i)leasure rides to macadamized roads. The scenery of mountain and valley is varied and picturesque. The air is dry and pure, and especially favor- able to those afflicted with pulmonary complaints. Sum- mer board can be obtained during July and August at (the Rev. J. Newman's) Ripley College. The localities interest ing to visit in the vicinity are Lake Austin, Lake Bomba zine, Bird Mountain, Rutland, Hydesville, Castleton, West Castleton, Fairhaven, Granville, and the quarries both of slate and of marble. 08 LAKES, RIVERS, AND 3I0UNTAINS. ',M Lake Bombazine, mostly in the town of Castleton, is a beautiful sheet of water, 9 miles lon^. Those fond of boating and fishing, may here find ample opportunity for their favor- ite sport. Bass, both Oswego and rock, pickerel and perch are abundant. Mr. Heath keeps the hotel at Hydeville and a boat-house at Heath's Ferry. Larned's House is also at Heath's Ferry. The works of the West-Castleton Slate Company, situated on the western shore of Lake Bombazine, are the most extensive of their kind in this country. Slate in the largest slabs and of the best quality is qrtarried here, wrought into a great variety of forms, and marbleized to imitate different kinds of marble. The ride from Poultney to West-Castleton and return presents a beauty and variety of scenery seldom equaled. At Lake Austin is the Saint Catherine House, C. W. Potter, proprietor, to be addressed at Wells, Vt, This hotel opens June 18th, 1868. Visitors for Lake Austin stop at Granville, N. Y., or Poultney, Vt., station. Rutland. — Rutland, Vt., 85 miles from Troy, 67 from Burlington, is a county-seat with some 8000 inhabitants. Hotels, Bardwell and Central, both near the depot. The village is an important one upon our route, not less than four railways making it a station. There is a restaurant in the large and commodious, if not elegant, depot. The visitor will first be struck with the peculiar appearance which the streets present, on account of their being paved with white marble. The quarries, near by, will abun- dantly repay one for a visit. The summit of the hill uj^on which Rutland stands affords a fine view. Otter Creek passes through the village. There are a number of inter- esting localities which the tourist may visit from Rutland as his headquarters. Kiilington Peak, called the third mountain of Vermont, NS. ^astletun, is a md of boating for their favor- irel and percli at Hydeville ed's House is Vest-Castleton jliore of Lake • kind in tins le best quality iety of forms, marble. The eturn i^resents ded. House, C. W. lis, Vt, This ke Austin stop L. Troy, 67 from lO inhabitants. |e depot. The not less than s a restaurant , depot. The r appearance r being paved y, will abun- the hill upon Otter Creek mber of inter- Ifrom Rutland Glen LiUs Falls. White Mountains. of Vermont, i !! ." 1 LAKES, RIVE.IS, AND MOUNTAINS. 99 rises on the eastern side of the village, and is the most important, perhaps, of the many notable spots hereabout. To the foot of the mountain the distance is 7 miles, and 2 miles more to the summit. On the north side is a perpen- dicular ledge of 200 feet, called Capitol Rock. Mount Ida, too, is not far off, beyond Killington Peak, as seen from Itutland, and northward are Mount Pico and Castleton Ridge, shutting out the view of Lake Champlain. Clarendon Springs, a favorite place of resort, is a few miles south of Rutland, on the Rutland and Washington Railway. Stages run from West-Rutland Station, 4 miles south of Rutland. The medicinal virtues of these waters, the varied and beautiful scenery, the pleasant drives around, and the excellent hotel accommodations, make this watering-place a very desirable summer halt. MiDDLEBURY. — The oldest college in the State of Ver- mont, founded 1800, (commencement second week in August,) gives a classic appearance to the pleasant town of Middlebury, situated on one of the numerous falls of Otter Creek. The principal fall of this stream, 40 feet high, bears the distinctive title of its parent, and is at Vergennes, about 7 miles from Lake Champlain, 46 miles from Rutland, and 21 miles from Burlington. The Addison House, at Middlebury, is a large and excel- lent country hotel, and is a favorite point of departure for a very interesting region of Vermont. Lake Castleton, Belden's Falls, Elgin Springs, etc., are but a short distance away. Carriages may be had at reasonable rates. Lake Dunmore, 8 miles by stage, is a wonderfully pic- turesque lake, 5 miles long and 3 wide, surrounded at most points by bold hills, and containing plenty of fish A good summer liotel and several cottages tempt the tourist to delay his departure indefinitely. Univcrsrtd • Ottawa • Un/versitjj Map Ubrary 100 LAKES, EIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ') Bkandon is just mid way (16 miles) from Rutland and Middlebuiy. It is interesting for its mineral resources ; particularly, the tourist will visit two caverns of limestone, tlie largest containing two apartments, each from 16 to 20 feet square. The entrance is 20 feet below the surface. Saint Alban's. — On the direct route between Burling- ton and Montreal, stands St. Alban's, Vt. The Welden House, Messrs. Cool & McDonald, is a large and first-class hotel, with a sulphur spring within its control. The scenery near Saint Alban's is considered unequaled, espe- cially a view from the summit of Aldis Hill and Bellevue. The village itself is very attractive, and by some is called the most beautiful in this State. The famous rebel raid from Canada here took place, Oct. 19th, 1864. il { Ui '\ ! If !' MOGSILAUEE MOUNTAIN, WAKEEN, N. H. Moosilauke Mountain can be reached by one of the re- gular lines of communication northward by rail. Leaving Concord, N. H., via Concord and Montreal Railway, a few hours' ride brings you to the little town of Warren. Here excursionists will find accommodations for the ascent of the mountain, which can be accomplished on foot or horse- back. The proprietor of the Prospect House, on the sum- mit of the mountain, usually accompanies travelers in their ascent, entertaining them with wild and fantastic stories of bears and wolves — certainly he has a natural faculty of imparting a good deal of the genial nature within to those natures without. He believes " it of no use to tell a story, unless you call the mind into action.^* Viewed from the south side of the town, Moosilauke presents two peaks bold, bald, and distinct. Standing upon the highest of these and turning around slowly upon your heel, the eye comprehends, to the northward, the Valley *^.i INS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 101 Rutland and ral resources; 3 of limestone, from 16 to 20 he surface, veen Burling- The Welden and first-class control. The equaled, espe- and Bellevue. some is called )us rebel raid J, N. H. one of tlie re- •ail. Leaving ailway, a few /"arren. Here lie ascent of foot or liorse- , on the sum- travelers in nd fantastic as a natural enial nature es " it of no to action." Moosilauke nding upon upon your , the Valley of the Connecticut and the table-lands of Canada ; to the eastward, the finest possible view of the White and Fran- conia Mountains ; to the southward, the ocean, dimly fleck- I ' ing the horizon ; to the westward, the rolling Green Moun- \'' tains of Vermont, with Camel's Hump and Mount Marcy of the Catskill Range, New- York. Moosilauke, from its height and isolated position, com- mands many advantages over all other mountains in New- England. The view from Mount Washington is more grand, no doubt. But the surrounding peaks shut down close and allow you no distance, the charm of mountain Bcenery. Moosilauke has every thing her own way. No high cliffs say to you, " Thus far, and no farther." The very best time for ascending the mountain is in a storm. A clear summer's day, " tenderly illumined," is very fine [ indeed. WILLOUGHBY LAKE. In the town of Westmore, in Northern Vermont, 30 miles from the Canada line, and 350 from New- York City, is Willoughby Lake, whose scenery geologically resembles that of the Yo Semite Valley in California. The lake is 6 miles long, the northern end curving a little to the east, and from a half to 2 miles wide. Its depth is so great that no reliable measurement has been made. Between the mountains, in the narrowest place, where the water is the deepest, it has been sounded to the depth of 600 feet, and no bottom was found. On either side rises a huge mountain to more than 2000 feet. Mount Willoughby, on the east side, being 2638 feet above the lake, and 3800 feet above the sea. A carriage-road was constructed several years ago along the eastern shore, from which may be had a better view of the mighty grandeur 102 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. ! k •I! t \'i of Mount Willougliby than from any other point near its base. For nearly 2 miles a perpendicular wall of granite rock, intermingled with silicious limestone, rises to the height of GOO feet, while below, between it and the lake, the side of the mountain, more than 1000 feet in height, covered with huge rocks, is little less than perpendicular to the summit. Leaving the hotel j ust south of the lake, you enter the woods, and after a walk of 2 miles through the forest of maple, beech, and spruce, passing two springs of the purest and coldest of water, you reach the summit, and obtain a grand view. East are the Franconia and White Moun- tains; the Tip-Top House of Mount Washington being easily seen with a glass in a clear day. West is the entire range of the Green Mountains, among which can be seen the summits of Killington Peak, Camel's Hump, Mount Mansfield, and Jay Peak. Between these two great moun- tain ranges, and within your vision, are ponds, wide forests, cultivated fields, farm-houses, and villages, forming a magnificent scene. Next, going further to the west, and approaching close to the precipice, you look down upon the lake, 2500 feet below. The purity and ''ansparency of the water of the lake is here observed. Along its shores, for several miles, every rock and sunken log can be seen. From here is a view of the entire length of the lake, the eastern shore of which seems almost in a straight line. Mount Hor, on the west side, and Mount Willoughby on the east, have the appearance of once having been U7iited. The walks and drives around Willoughby are numerous and pleasant. That down the lake shore, under the frown- ing walls of Mount Willoughby, will first claim attention. The scenery down the entire length of the lake is grand and beautiful, although not so rugged as it is before reach- LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 103 )r point near its wall of granite ne, rises to the it and tlie lake, 3 feet in lieiglit, a. perpendicular e, you enter the o-h the forest of igs of the purest lit, and obtain a d White Moun- ishington being ''est is the entire iiich can be seen 3 Hump, Mount two great moun- ids, wide forests, ges, forming a to the west, and ook down upon ^ansparency of long its shores, Off can be seen, of the lake, the a straight line. Willoughby on ng been wiited. )y are numerous mder the frown- claim attention, le lake is grand is before reacli- •m incr Point of Rocks. The distances from the hotel to othei places of interest, are : Island Pond, where there is a grand hotel, 20 miles ; Newport, by team, 20 ; Derby Line, 22 ; Stanstead Plain, 23; Saint Johnsbury, 22^; Barton, 11; West-Charleston, 10 ; Burke Mountain, 10 ; West-Burke. [6; Newark, 6. On the road to Barton, about a mile and a half east ot the depot, is the Flume. The stream from May's Pond passes through it, descending into Crystal Lake. In the Bolid granite rock is a passage-way for the water, 140 feet long, 10 feet wide, and from 20 to 30 feet in depth. The walls rise almost perpendicularly, and are as smooth as if cut by the hand of man. Some utilitarian has constructed 0> saw-mill over it, and turned it to practical account, thus ilgreatly marring its beauty. It is, however, well worth visiting. Plunket Falls, in Clyde River, at Charleston, 12 miles I from Willoughby Lake House, are exceedingly beautiful. i Here the river makes a descent of 100 feet in a half-mile, and at one point below the saw-mill it makes almost a per- pendicular fall of 30 feet. Another favorite ride from the hotel is to Newark Hill, from which can be seen the White and Green Mountain ranges. Hotel. — Excepting a summer residence, built by a gentleman of Newark, N. J., and the houses of the hotel, there are no buildings in the vicinity of Willoughby Lake. The place is, therefore, commendable chiefly to families desiring a quiet summer retreat, surrounded by the best of mountain and lake scenery, and withdrawn from the noisy centres of travel. The Willoughby Lake House has accommodations for 50 to 100 boarders, at rural terms. Proprietor, Mr. Alonzo Bemis. Carriages wait at West Burke Railway Station, 6 miles distant. Lake Memphre- 1 1 ' 1 i 1 j ] \ ■ Hi t 1 i I ■ ■ ' . i ! ■ -,i 1 I 1 1 ^ 1 1 ' 1 i ' ''' 1 ; 1 1 ' '' 1 n |;| i :' ' ll ii ] 1 '1 I ^ li '' 1 '1 1 1 ''^ 1 '■ ! 104 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. magog is 28 miles north of West-Burke, and White Rivei Junction 77 i?outh. The hotel is supplied with pure, cold spring water, brought in pipes from the hillside. From the hotel it runs north into the lake, and thence into Lake Memphremagog and the Saint Lawrence. About 20 rods in the rear of the hotel is a little lakelet, which discharges into a small stream running south into the Passumpsic, and thence into the Connecticut. It is situated so near the water-shed between Long Island Sound and the Saint Law- rence, that a few hours' work would change its outlet from the Connecticut to the Saint Lawrence. Route. — From New- York, by New-Haven, Worcester, and Springfield, and Connecticut River Railways; from Boston, by Cheshire Railway to Bellows Falls ; tlience by Connecticut and Passumpsic Railway to West-Burke Station, where the hotel carriages may be found. UP >LAK£ SUPERIOR. The most varied summer trip that can be taken in this country is up Lake Superior, across the wilderness to Saint Paul, and down the Mississippi River. It requires four or six weeks, and costs each tourist not far from $300, includ ing hotel and all expenses. We know every inch of the way, and can assure pleasure and health-seekers that they can nowhere find safer or more inspiring recreation. The best months in the year for the Lake Superior trip are July and August. During September there are very likely to be gales upon the lakes. The tourist can take the boat at Cleveland or Detroit, and will be about 5 days in reaching Ontonagon, where most of the boats stop, or C to Superior City, the extreme end of the lake, and where the steamer Keweenaw alone goes. The fare is about $30 from Cleveland, which includes state-room, board, and \.INS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAIXS. 105 ,d White Rivei with pure, cold | lillside. From | lence into Lake About 20 rods hich discharges he Passuiiipsic, ated so near the I the Saint Law- } its outlet from iren, Worcester, Railways; from ills; thence by to West-Burke found. }G taken in this .erness to Saint •equires four or |m $300, includ jery inch of tho ekers that they creation. e Superior trip [there are very Lst can take the |.bout 5 days in ^oats stop, or 6 ike, and where •e is about $30 L, board, and every thing. The names of tho boats for the year 1868 are as follows : Northwest, Capt. Kirtland ; Keweenaw, Capt. ■* Stewart; Meteor, Capt. Wilson; Northern Light, Capt. sMurch; Concord, Capt. Mclntyre. The Northwest will irun between Detroit and Portage, leaving Detroit every '^Tuesday evening. This steamer will make occasional cx- •IBursion trips about the north shore of Lake Superior. Tho other steamers wall run from Cleveland to Ontonagon, 150 miles below Superior City. The Keewenaw will run to tho Htter place. The round trip will occupy 2 weeks. A iSleamer will leave Detroit every Thursday and Saturday. jI Very many, in fact the majority of lake tourists, make like round trip on the same steamer. This costs only #out $00, and is really very delightful. The steamers re staunch and elegant, and life upon them is varied by lucli that is pleasant. The navigation of the upper lakes is as safe as traveling any part of the country. Very erroneous impressions :ist with regard to this matter, because of several disas-. jrs which occurred during autumn gales. The very Itrongest vessels are built for the line, and the most expert officers are placed in charge. We know enough of the plea- lures of the lake trip to assure tourists that they will be de- lighted beyond measure. It is an uncommon, rather than common thing, for tourists by the steamers to be sea-sick. After leaving Detroit, the tourist passes through Lake Jahit Clair, on the shores of which are many elegant resi- lences. There is nothing of special interest till you have grossed Lake Huron and arrived at the great ship-canal in the Jaint Mary's River. Twenty miles below you pass Church's sanding, noted for "raspberry-jam " and Indian curiosities. Under River Settlement is an Indian village 10 miles be- )w. At the Saut Sainte Marie, or " Soo," as every body in ^H II ff H- ^^m II E ^Mi ^H 1 Hf ■ 1 K 1 1 1 1 1 ' ; 1 li 1 1 1 i il 1 f ' H 1 1 1 1 II' i 1 li j If li f f ^ 1 1 1 '■ ^ II: 100 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. the West calls it, the rapids in the river that unite Laki Huron and Superior descend 20 feet in a mile, totally ol structing navigation. The ship-canal, however, which hn recently been constructed on the American side, obviate this difficulty. Steamers of a large class now pass throug the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade an commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantl situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a cour house and jail ; a Presbyterian, a Methodist, and a Roma Catholic church; 2 hotels, and 15 or 20 stores and store houses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, an( about 1200 inhabitants. Many of the inhabitants and In dians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur trade and fisli eries, the latter being an important and profitable occupa tion. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lak( Superior country for health and pleasure. The Chippewt House, a well-kept hotel on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of the river, both aflbrd good accommo dations. Fort Brady is an old and important United States mill tary post contiguous to this frontier village, where aru barracks for a full garrison of troops. It commands the Saint Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of tlie canal. Saut Sainte Marie, Ontario, is a scattered settlement,! where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Heroj is a steamboat landing, a hotel, and 2 or 3 stores, including | the lludson Bay Company's ; and it has from 500 to 600 in habitants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in tlio vicinity in considerable numbers, they having the exclusive right to take fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids, They also employ themselves in running the rapids in theii frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers. TAINS. LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. 107 that unite Lakes I mile, totally ob vvever, wliicli has ;aii side, obviates low pass througli itating trade and side is pleasantly contains a court- iist, and a Homau stores and store-' tablishments, and ihabitants and In- :ur trade and fish profitable occupa- ice and the Lake ). The Chippewa side, and one on •d good accommo iiited States mill illage, where ari' ;t commands the Itlie mouth of tlie'l Itered settlement Company. Here stores, including :om 500 to 600 in ibe reside in the [ing the exclusive )us to the rapids J [he rapids in tlieii | strangers. This canal, which connects the navigation of Lake Supe- rior with the lower lakes, is 1 mile in length, and cost about $1,000,000. The stupendous task of building it was I accomplished in the years 1853, '54, '55, by the Saint [ary's Falls Ship-Canal Company, under a contract with "commissioners appointed by the authorities of the State of Michigan to secure the building of the canal. A grant of 750,000 acres of the public land had previously been made by Congress to the State of Michigan to aid in the construction of this important work. This grant of 750,000 acres was given to the parties con- tracting for the building of the canal, provided the work should be completed within two years from the date of |lie contract. The work was commenced May, 1853, and mipleted within the time specified in the contract, {two fears!) a result reached under many disadvantages, dur- ing a very sickly season, and when great* difficulty was experienced in obtaining laborers ; but the unremitting '■igor of those who had the charge of the work secured its jompletion in the most substantial, permanent, and accep- [table manner. During much of the time, from 1200 to 1600 men were employed upon the work, exclusive of the force at the different quarries where the stone was cut and i prepared for the locks, beside a large force employed in I other necessary agencies, such as getting timber, etc. The stones for the locks were cut at Anderden, Canada, (near Maiden,) and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. Tliese were sent in vessels to the work, some 25 different sailing vessels being employed in this business. On leaving the ship-canal at the Saut, the steamer as- cends a beautiful stretch of the Saint Mary's River for 10 miles before reaching Waiska Bay, being an expansion of 108 LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. H ii i m II 1:3 ',»! , li 1 I '''if i' tlio river of about 5 miles. Hero the shores asRumc a hold a])[>('iinine(3 well worthy the attention of the traveler befon- lauiK.'hinjjf out on the waters of the broad lake. Iro(|iiois Point, on the American side^ and Gros Caj), on the Canadian side, are next passed, 15 miles from the Saut Sainte Marie. The latter is a bold promontory, rising some 400 or .jOO feet above the water, with still higher hills rising" in the distance. Ton(|uamenon Bay is next entered, and a scene of gran- deur is presented to the view ; on the south-west, or Ameri- can shore, the land rises to a moderate height, while on the north-east, or Canada shore, the land rises to mountain height, being elevated from 800 to 1000 feet, running ott' far in the distance toward the north. Parisien and other islands, attached to Canada, are pass- (kI on the right, the bay be* t about 25 miles long and as many broad ; in fact, fori ; a part of Lake Superior, whose pure waters are in full view as far as the eye can reach. Uoulais Bay and Point, another bold headland, lie to the north of Gros Cap. The Pictured Rocks, of which almost fabulous accounts are given by travelers, are one of the wonders of Lake Su- l^erior. Here are to be seen the Cascade Falls and other objects of great interest. The Amphitheatre, Miners' Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are points of great picturesque beauty. Just opposite the Pictured Rocks is Grand Island, 125 miles distant from the Saut, about 10 miles long and 5 wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a w^ild and romantic island. There are several romantic bays and inlets protected from storms which are frequent on A INS. IS assume a bolii 3 traveler before ako. iid Gros Cap, on ;8 from the Saut ory, rising some ill liiglier hills a scene of gran- i-west, or Ameri- j-ht, while on the ics to mountain eet, running off /anada, are pass- iles long and as Lake Superior, as the eye can leadland, lie to bulous accounts ers of Lake Sn- ails and other leatre, Miners' , are points of md Island, 125 es long and 5 This is a wild romantic bays re frequent on I 9 I i I! ) H I atf>- rf/ffi LAKES, KIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS. 109 Lake Superior, where brook trout of a large size can be caught in quantities. The forests also afford a delightful retreat. A few families reside on the south shore, facing the mainland, where is a clearing of considerable extent. The main-shore in full sight, and the Pictured Rocks, visible from its eastern shore, altogether add a charm to this truly- Grand Island, unsurpassed by no other spot in this Inter- esting region. Munising, formerly called Grand Islpnd City, lies on the south side of Grand Island Bay, here about 3 miles in width. Here is a steamboat wharf and hotel, together with a few dwellings, destined, without doubt, to become a favorite place of resort, as from this place the Pictured Rocks can be easily reached by canoes or small boats during calm weather. Trout fishing is also good in Ann's River, which enters Grand Island Bay, and in Miner's River, near the Pictured Rocks. The bay or harbor is capacious, deep, and easy of access from the east or west, being 6 miles in length by from 2 to 4 in width, with a depth of \7ater of 100 feet and up- ward. It is perfectly land-locked by liills rising from 100 to 300 feet high, and capacious enough to contain the en- tire fleet of the lakes. The traveler desirous of visiting the Pictured Rocks should take advantage of one of the steamers or propellers which navigate the lake, and land at Grand Island, from which he can proceed to make the tour of tne interesting points in a small boat. The large vessels on the lake do not approach sufficiently near the cliffs to allow the traveler to gather more than a general idea of their position ai:d outlines. To be able to appreciate and understand their extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast along 110 LAKES, EIVEKS, AND MOUNTAINS. if .V :iii| in close proximity to the cliff's, and pass beneath the Grand Portal, which is only accessible from the lake, and to land and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The traveler should lay in a good supply, if it is intended to be absent long enough to make a thorough examination of the whole series. In fact, an old voyager will not readily trust himself to the mercy of the winds and waves of the lake without them, as he may not unfrequently, however auspicious the weather when starting, find himself weather- bound for days together. It is possible, however, in one day, to start from Grand Island, see the most interesting points, and return. The distance from William's to the Chapel — the farthest point of interest — is about 15 miles. After the Pictured Rocks, Marquette is the next place of interest. This is the largest place on the lake, and is chiefly interesting for its famous iron mines, 12 miles back from the town. On leaving Marquette, the tourist passes Granite Island, the Huron Isles, and Huron Bay, and passes through Port- age Entry to Houghton and Hancock, the celebrated min- ing towns of the copper-veined Keweenaw Point. Here is the place to witness copper mining. The other stopping- places on the lake are Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, On- tonagon, Bayfield, and finally Superior City. Modt of the steamers go no farther than Ontonagon, and here is also a capital place to witness copper mining. Bayfield is a gov- ernment post, and is settled all about by Chippewa Indians. Superior City is splendidly situated at the head of the lake, and between the two rivers. Saint Louis and Nemeji. From Superior City the tourist should not fail to take a sail along the north shore of Lake Superior, stopping at Bea ver Bay, Encampment River, and Isle Royal. This latter 3« LAKES, RIVERS, AND MOUNTAINS. Ill L tlie Grand Bind to land At Grand !ured. The ended to be ruination of not readily mYes of tlie ly, however jelf weatlier- rever, in one t interesting lam's to the out 15 miles, next place of lake, and is ,2 miles back •anite Island, hrough Port- ebrated min- int. Here is ler stopping- Harbor, On- Modt of the ere is also a eld is a gov- ,ewa Indians, of the lake, emeji. fail to take a )X)ing at Bea This latter M is the great storehouse for agates and chlorastolites. The tourist should also sail up the Saint Louis River 20 miles to Saint Louis Falls, which have a fall of 60 feet. If he can get his craft around the falls, he can ascend the Saint Louis 80 miles farther. Adventurous young ladies and gentlemen will accomplish quite a feat by visiting Black River Falls, 12 miles from Superior City. Tri- weekly stages go from Superior City to Saint Paul, a distance of 163 miles. The time occupied is 3 days, and the fare about $15. It is a wild and interesting trip to take. Altoge.ther, the Lake Superior trip is a splendid one in- deed, especially for any who are troubled with bronchial or pulmonary affections. The air is cool and dry, and ex- ceedingly invigorating. SAINT LOUIS AND VICINITY. At the eastern border of the great journey " across the Continent," which must be included in guide-books of our era, stands the city of Saint Louis. Situated as it is, almost midway between two oceans, and near the geographical centre of the finest agricultural region on the globe, almost at the very focus toward which converge the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers, there can be no doubt that it is destined to become, at no distant period, the great receiving and distributing depot of most of the vast region drained by these streams. Its natural advantages as a commercial emporium may be confidently compared with those of any other inland port in the world. The first settlement on the present site was made Feb. 15th, 1764, by Pierre Liqueste Laclede, leader of a company of merchants, under grant from the Director-General of Louis- iana. The spot was carefully selected, after comparison m t "J».Mi|lUi««»-l"'