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H O N O L l: l U

A GLIMPSE OF (HONOLULU

3" April, 1895.

K. B. xVl. BUJ^L.

TORONTO

ARBUTHNOT & ADAMSOxN, PRINTERS

9i Adklaide St. East.

Honolulu.

LITTLE f^weetness for you," were
the lisping words that Ccime from
a flaxen-haired little maiden, as
she handed a bouquet of roses
to one of our party. This, accompanied by a
basket of fruit and flowers, made us feel that
we were not entirely strangers in the far-away
city of San Francisco, but had a few friends
to wish us "bon voyage," as we set sail for
Honolulu.

Honolulu ! How the very name seemed an
inspiration ! We had talked about it by day,
and dreamed about it by night ; and now our
great desire was about to be realized. The
day had actually arrived, the hour was near
at hand, when we would heave anchor and
set sail for the sunny isle in the Mid-Pacific.

HONOLULU.

Our passenger list numbered al^out fifty,
among them being Prince Kawananakoa, or
l)etter known as Prince David of Hawaii, and
Hon. Paul Neumann, of Honolulu, who were
returning from Washington, whither they had
been sent in the interests of the deposed
Queen Liliuokalani. Emerging from our state-
rooms at six o'clock on the morning of the
seventh day of a very pleasant but unevent-
ful voyage, we found ourselves skirting the
shore of the island of Oahu, on which Hono-
lulu is situated. After hurrying to the saloon,
and partaking of a hasty breakfast, we again
appear on deck, to find that our good ship,
Alameda, had rounded Diamond Head, bring--
ing us in full view of the city of Honolulu,
nestling among its tropical foliage, and
sloping gradually from the foot-hills down to
the water's edge. Our vessel anchored until
the pilot and health officer came on board,
and then slowly steamed towards the quay,
freighted with many wondering, expectant
hearts at the new world opening before them.
Our attention was first attracted to the small
native boys who swam out to the vessel's

HONOL UL U.

side, their brown skin looking like polished
mahogany beneath the clear waters of the
Pacific. Their large, dark eyes would follow
the movements of the passengers until a nickel
was thrown, when one would immediately
disappear under the water, soon to re-appear
with his prize, holding it between his fingers
at arm's length, to assure the incredulous
passengers of his success. Stowing it away
safely in his mouth, he was ready for the
next dive. As we drew into the quay what
a novel sight met our eyes ! There thronged
the copper skinned natives, clad in their gay
attire, while the rustle of excitement and the
look of expectancy on their faces, at once
justified us in conjecturing that they were
there to welcome home their Prince, and also to
hear the latest news from Washington, hoping
that through his and Commissioner Neumann's
infiuence their Queen would be restored to her
throne, and a monarchy re-established. As
the Prince stepped off the gangway, numerous
wreathes of flowers, or leis, w^^re thrown around
his neck, and he was escorted in state to the
royal carriage, where a white-liveried footman

flONOLVLV.

■ ■ Standing on the carriage

stood in ^vaiting. Sund . ^^^^ ^^^^^.j_

step, the P"-V:S ,e was driven off to the

and amid their cheers he j ^^. pi.ce

deposed Queen s res^nee ^^^.^^ ^^^^^^^

In a very short time s ^^„„,,,iu, and

through the narrow f^^ ^^,^,, set down

after about ten nnmrtes ^^^ ,i,y-looking

at the Hawauan Hotel ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^

building with ve-"d ;;-,^,,„, shaded by

--' ^""°""ts .i t opical trees. In con-
,iumerous palms ana t ^ ^ ^^^ .^

nection with the ^o';'; ^^^^ „, bungalows,
„u,„ber of pretty htle CO t-o ^^„ ^,ke

where, if the g^'^f^f-tnlat the hotel, thus
up their residence, ^^^^^^^^J ^^„,, ufe eonv

hlving all the q"-'-;;^";, hotel. In one
bined with the pleasure ott ^^^^^^^ ^^^,

of these bungalow-s we ^^ere ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^
ready to enjoy the ne ortumty o

In the hotel we had a „r Employed

studying the different nati^d-^

,„ the building -- ^^7tead waiter, with
waiters, while the trench shrugs,

many gesticulations and sgg^^ ^^.^^ ^^^ ^^^

ushered the guests to tne

HONOLULU.

Age
\vd,

the
ace.
itled

ant:i
lown

3king
ories,

:d by
\ con-
are a
alows,
take
1, thus
com-
In one
ed and

unity

ployed
apanese

er, with
shrugs,
all the

suavity and politeness of his race. In the
office, we found a Portuguese book-keeper,
with the sweetest little Japanese lady for a
wife, while through the halls and corridors
were seen native bell-boys who ran to and
fro in answer to the numerous calls of the
guests. Though each nation retained the
original tongue when conversing with one
another, English was the common one used
by all.

The arrival of each steamer was celebrated
the same evening by a concert given by the
Hawaiian band, in the grounds of the hotel.
A picturesque sight it was — the lawn and
band-stand lighted with coloured electric lights;
the citizens thronging the grounds, while the
guests assembled on the large open balcony
of the hotel (or, as the natives call it, lanai),
and were charmed with the strange music
and weird singing of the native band. It
was a truly fairy-like scene as we gazed on
that happy throng, clad in their light attire,
intent on the enjoyment of the moment.

The prevailing dress of Honolulu is white.
The ladies wear it morning, afternoon, and

jMn*

HONOL UL U.

^ ;

evening ; the only difference being that the
costume becomes more ehiborate as the day
advances. The gentlemen wear white linen
suits, varying their evening dress by a short
linen coat coming to the waist, and pointed
in the back, which certainly looks cool and
appropriate for the warm climate. Years ago,
the missionaries, after vain attempts to estab-
lish a dress reform among the native or kanaka
women, succeeded finally in introducing the
Mother- Hubbard wrapper, it being the least
confining of any garment. It was adopted by
them and still remains the fashionable gown
worn by the middle and lower classes. The
genuine kanaka is as dark as our negro, lack-
ing the curly hair. The larger proportion of
the population is composed, of half-breeds,
and grade from a copper colour to the least
perceptible tint. Some of the young ladies
are very fine looking, — aquiline features, large,
dark, lustrous eyes, and straight, black, glossy
hair.

The mingling of the two races on all
occasions for social intercourse and public
balls strikes the visitor at first as very strange

HONOLULU.

the

day
linen
short
)inted
I and
5 ago,
estab-
;anaka
ag the
e least
^ted by
gown
The
•o, lack-
,rtion of

-breeds,
Ihe least

g ladies

■s, large,
, glossy

on all
[d public
:y strange

and objectionable ; but once meet and converse
with the educated Hawaiian, and that impres-
sion vanishes ; for one recognizes in them a
bright intelligence as well as a degree of refine-
ment and sensitiveness that might put many
a white to the blush.

The kanakas live chiefly on fish and pot.
The latter is a native dish made from kalo
(pronounced taro), a vegetable resembling a
turnip. It is boiled, and then pounded into
a paste. When ready for use it is thinned
with water to about the consistency of starch.
It is served in bowls, the kanakas winding
it around their first two fingers and eating
with great rapidity. It certainly seems to
agree with them, for some of the women are
enormous, weighing as much as two to three
hundred pounds. The uncivilized kanakas
eat their fish raw% preferring the heads and
throwing away the remainder. This custom
is still retained by some of the lower class.
We had frequently noticed, during our outings,
a white flag flying from some of the smaller
houses ; and, on inquiry, found that it w^as a
sign of poi being made and sold there. Our

HONOLULU.

curiosity being aroused, we asked our driver
one morning to draw up before one of these
places to allow us to alight and investigate for
ourselves. On the floor at either end of a
long trough sat a Chinaman, bare to the waist,
holding between his hands, high above his
head, a large wooden pounder which he
brought down with all his might on the
doughy-like mass which lay before him By
his side stood a pail of water, into which,
between the strokes, he dipped his hands,
and with lightning-like rapidity, slapped the
water on' the pounder, thus preventing the
embedding of it in the sticky paste. The
exertion necessary for this manual work was
accompanied by a great flow of perspiration
from the Chinamen's bodies which one of our
party suggested, much to our disgust, added
somewhat to the flavour of the poi. ' We
assured him, however, that the hotel poi was
machine made, and had not to undergo this
process. One of the ladies undertook to take
a kodak picture of the scene, but one Celestial,
with all His superstitious nature aroused,
dropped his implement, and, with terror de-

t
.If

HONOLULU.

ill

ver
lese
for
)f a
aist,

his

the

By
hich,
ands,
d the
the

The
c was
^ration
of our
added
We
^qI was
go this
to take
elestial,
iroused,
rror de-

iSV

picted on every feature, disappeared from
view and we saw him no more.

The fruits of Honokdu are numerous —
bananas being the chief one foi export. Pine-
apples are grown to some extent, while the
bread-fruit trees are cultivated and used as
an article of food on the island. The mango
is very plentiful and grows on a large tree
with a narrow leaf, somewhat resembling our
peach leaf, while the fruit reminds one of an
inverted pear in shape. When ripe, it is very
luscious and has the flavour of a pineapple
and a banana combined. It contains a large
pit, and is eaten with some difficulty, render-
ing necessary not only a finger bowl but a
large basin of v/ater and towel to complete the
creature comfort. The papaia grows on a
small tree with a straight, slender trunk,
crowned with a cluster of large, green leaves.
The fruit, like the cocoanut, grows immedi-
ately under the leaves and varies in size from
that of a cucumber to a cantaloupe. It re-
sembles the latter very much, and is served
on the table in the same way. The inside
is covered with small green seeds, is a rich

HONOL UL U.

orange in colour, and has a sweet but rather
sickening taste. It is recommended for indi-
gestion, and when used in moderation is said
to be very beneficial. The water lemon is
another fruit production of the island, not
unlike the pomegranate, very seedy and rather
tasteless. I'oremost among the shade and orna-
mental trees is the algeroba, a large branching
tree growing wild ; its line, ferny leaf furnishing
a beautiful feathery foliage. The royal palm
well deserves its name, for it is the most regal
and stately tree in Honolulu. Its tall, straight
trunk covered with smooth, silvery bark, and
crowned with a rich green cluster of slender
palm leaves is truly magnificent. There are
many avenues of these trees, and any resident
may well be proud of them, as they contribute
largely to the grandeur and character of the
place. On entering the harbour, the cocoanut
palms are the first trees noticed, towering
high above all others, though by no means
the straightest. Their long, slender trunks
present the appearance of being weary of
bearing up such a weight of fruit and leaves,
and they seemingly loll and bend under their

HONOLULU.

her
idi-
5 aid
a is
not
Lther
)rna-
:hing
shing
palm
regal
:aight
;, and
lender
re are
isident
tribute
of the
coanut
)wering
means
trunks

eary

leaves,
ler their

heavy burden. It was a great puzzle to us
how the fruit was gathered off these very tall
trees, with no branches to climb. It appears
that each year's growth leaves a slight ring
on the l)ark, and the agile kanaka, with his
bare feet, uses these almost imperceptible
rings as stepping stones, and accomplishes
his perilous ascent in safety. ' Palms, plants,
and flowers of every description and variety
grow in great luxuriance, and in driving through
the residential portion our eyes are dazzled by
the brilliant floral display of every hue and
colour, and the variety of tropical foliage.

We attended a luau or native feast given
by the ladies in aid of the Church and con-
ducted in true native style. A drive of fifteen
or twenty minutes brought us to the entrance
of the grounds. Passing through the gates
our attention was at once attracted to a
strange sight, and drawing near we beheld
scattered over the grass five or six pigs of
difterent sizes, nicely dressed, and as we
should suppose ready for market. But not so
in this case. The kanakas had heated lava
stones and were now packing them in the pigs.

HONOLULU.

This accomplished, the animals weie placed
in a hole dug in the ground previously lined
with hot stones. Several layers of banana
leaves formed the covering, while over this,
fine straw matting was closely tucked in, the
whole being hidden from view by a (juantity
of mother earth. The cooking process occu-
pied two hours, after which the kanakas
again went to work, removing the earth and
matting. Immediately the hot steam poured
forth, and pails of water were iiecessary to
sufficiently cool the leaves to allow of their
removal. Roast pig was then revealed to us
looking brown and savory in its hot bed of
stones. The next addition was a large
wooden tray, upon which the pork was
placed in small chunks, having been cut up
by the expert fingers of the kanakas, and
thus made ready to be served at the feast.
The next group that interested us was the
kanaka women preparing the fish. After
thorough cleansing and cutting into small
pieces they were laid on leaves (a long nar-
row leaf called ti, pronounced tea). In
these they were carefully wrapped, tied at

■•*i

HONOLULU.

was
ut up
, and
feast.
LS the
After
small

one end and placed on the coals, where the
women faithfully watched and turned them
till cooked.

Again we passed on, this time to centre
our attention on a little circle who were
intently watching the boiling contents of a
large pot. This we found to be grated cocoa-
nut, milk, and ti leaves, which, when boiled
sufficiently, would make a rich sauce to be
served with the savory meat.

It was truly a holiday feast for the kanakas
— men, women and children arrayed in their
Hght costumes; women in their loose gowns
with elaborately embroidered .yokes, many of
them evidently donned for the hrst time.
Jewellery is very seldom worn by the natives,
its place being supplied by flowers of every
shape, colour, and variety, strung into wreaths
called leis, and worn about the neck and
around the hats. They do not, however,
carry the custom so far as the Tahitians,
who, through their pierced ears, introduce the
slender stem of the large, red flower, hibiscus,
which, nestling against their dark skins, pro-
duces a most artistic effect. No kanaka

HONOL UL U.

would consider the holiday toilet complete
without one or more of these Ids around the
neck, and indeed, on the present occasion,
every visitor was adorned, and felt justly
proud of the necklet of natural beauty.

Several ladies connected with the royal
family presided over some of the booths,
and as a mark ^of distinction wore lets of
yellow feathers, very rare and expensive.

The feast proper was served in two rustic
pavilions erected for the occasion. One, the
" Pink Table," was seated for the guests, and
considered of more aristocratic bearing, con-
sequently higher fee charged; while the other,
the " Blue Table," was merely laid with a
strip of matting on either side of a low table.
The menu was precisely the same at both
and served equally well.

The descent of rain just as the feast was
prepared did not in the least dampen the
ardour of the pleasure-seekers, who poured
into the tents and occupied seats in a remark-
ably short time.

Having watched the culinary preparation
we had no desire to partake of refreshments.

HONOLULU.

•7

hut some of our party, not quite so fastidious,
and havinj:^ actiuircd the knack of manipuhit-
\n<f^ food with their fin^^ers, pronounced it
most deHcious cooking. As for our part,
we merely occupied our position at the
table to take in the whole scene, which
was evi icntly an hour of special enjoyment
to the natives. The absence of cutlery was
amply supplied by the fingers, as shown in
the rapid disappearance of poi, fish, pork,
with all the various sauces and .condiments.
We were very much amused in watching one
woman unusually expert in the use of her
digits, carry to her mouth in one helping
more poi than any ordinary spoon could boast
of doing. She would bury her two fingers
up to the knuckles in the food, and with a
graceful twirl in the bowl and a swift move-
ment to the mouth accomplished the wonderful
feat.

upon leaving the pavilion, w^e were suprised
to see the Queen Dowager, Kapiolani, who
had come to attend the feast, but owing to
the rain was partaking of refreshments in her
carriage. We had pictured an elderly person,

1 .

HONOLULU.

1 '-''■

,1 i"'

jji

but were agreeably surprised to see a middle-
aged lady, with the Hawaiian features, mild,
dark eyes, and pleasant expression. She
partook of all the courses of the repast in the
same manner as her former subjects, thus
keeping up the old custom for the occasion ;
and although not understanding a word of
English, she smiled pleasantly on the faces
of chose around her.

The unfavourable weather hastened our
departure, and at the depot found some of
our party in a sorry plight. Out of respect
to the day they had robed themselves in
white, but the rain having had peculiarly
affected the soil, they found by sad experience
that there were slippery ways to guard against
even in this sea girt island, and having yielded
to their subtle entanglements, they emerged,
carrying visible evidence upon their clothing.
Nothing daunted, they assured us they were
quite ready for a repetition of the discomfor-
ture in order to again witness such a novel
native holiday.

^ Every one visiting Honolulu should take a
trip to Ewa sugar plantation, a run of twelve

HONOLULU.

niih-- on the only railway on the island. We
left at 9 a.m., and in a very short time passed
the Hon. Mr. Damon's grass houses and fish
ponds, which we had visited a few days before,
during one of our drives. Then on we sped
into the country, passing large knh) patches
and vivid green rice fields, where the poor
Chinaman toiled knee deep in water, and
under a blazing sun, to earn his daily susten-
ance. An hour and a half's ride, and we
were set down at Ewa, close to the mill.
Here we saw the sugar cane piled up on
large railway trucks, and backed into the
mill, where several men stood ready at the
mouth of the feeder to supply its enormous
appetite. At the bottom of the feeder were
several sharp knives which cut the cane into
small pieces. It was then carried up and
thrown into a vat of hot water, being left
some time to soak, after which it was drainetl
and put under pressure until all the juice
was extracted. The refuse was carried by
machinery to the furnace where it served
as fuel ; while the juice underwent different
degrees of boiling, until changed to a thick,

HONOLULU.

rich syrup. It was then poured into the
drying machine where it was whirled around
until thoroughly dry, and fell out a glistening
brown sugar.

Before leaving Ewa we had the pleasiu'e
of calling on a bride. As an engaged young
lady she had been one of our passengers on
the Alameda, and had not only excited the
interest, but formed the friendship of many
on board; so that when landing at Honolulu
many eyes followed her and watched the
joyful meeting between her and her fiance.
They were married the same evening, and
after spending a short honeymoon at the sea-
side, were now comfortably installed in their
new home at Ewa. She welcomed us as old
friends and received our congratulations with
a radiant face, at the same time begging us
to stay and partake of her hospitality ; but
as our train was waiting we had to content
ourselves with a hasty good-bye, and [imid
many kind wishes turn our backs upon the
liappy bride and the Ewa plantation.

The British consul's family very kindly
drove me out one morning to see the grounds

HONOLULU

and residence of the Princess Kaiulani. It
is a new erection on all modern principles,
to be ready on her return from Europe. The
inlaid floors and frescoed walls are very
beautiful, but I must say the old residence
with its low ceilings, small windows, and
broad lanai claim my admiration much more.
The greatest attraction, however, lies in the
surrounding grounds, comprising several acres
laid out in a wild state of tropical cultivation.
Near the houses is a remarkable rubber tree,
with gnarled old trunk and crooked branches
growing in every direction, even running down-
wards, implanting themselves in the ground,
extending to the root and thus aiding in
strengthening and nourishing the tree. These
extensive branches, covered with their dark,
green, waxy leaf, are so philanthropic as to
shelter beneath their shade no less than seven
or eight hundred people. Not far distant is
an extensive cocoanut grove, some of the trees
being over one hundred years old. Crossing
over a rustic bridge which spans a small
stream, we come on a tangled mass of flowers,
fruit, and ferns. Quenching our thirst with

'^'!fI7 *^L ' - ' ^" — ^ '^i ..^ '■» 4 "^fFigiiisgippip

HONOLULU.

the tart red berries, we continue our ex-
plorations, and, suddenly, emerging from this
tangled brush, find ourselves in a shady nook
in sight of a glassy surfaced pond fringed
with palms and ferns ; while in its still waters
rtoat pink, blue, and white water lilies. We
look with longing eyes on those pure white
and coloured water nymphs which are so
near, yet, alas ! elude our grasp ; and turning
away with dejected mein our eyes fall upon
our almond eyed attendant, who, with a
gallantry not born of his race, plunges into
the water, secures the prize, and presents it
to the happy recipients. Following our guide
through the long, silky grass, with no fear of
treading on the repulsive reptile — St. Patrick
evidently having visited the island and ban-
ished the obnoxious visitor — we soon stand
before a genuine native grass house. Could
one imagine a more charming little residence
than this, with its sloping roof covered with
variegated grass, which also hangs in grace-
ful festoons from its eaves ; its sides made of
evenly plaited grasses, ever varying in colour
as the light and shade fall upon it ! On

i
P

ifi

HONOLULU.

entering, an air of neatness and cleanliness
pervades the whole room, for the interior is
one large apartment which can be curtained
off if necessary. The braided grass wall gives
forth a fragrance akin to that of a new mown
hay field. As we inhaled this refreshing
reminder of rustic life, and gazed around
with admiration, we felt a tinge of envy rise
toward the former kings and queens of Hawaii
who could thus live in such comfort beyond
the precincts of wood, brick, and stone.

One of the principal drives in Honolulu
is that taken to the pali (Hawaiian name
for precipice), a drive of six miles with a
gradual ascent of 1,200 feet. En route we
pass the Royal Mausoleum, the resting place
of kings and queens for many generations.
As we advance, the road becomes more rugged,
the scenery grander, and the air cooler. The
final ascent is reached, and a sudden turn
in the road brings us to the ^d^e of a steep
precipice. Here is one of the most command-
ing views on the island — rugged mountain
peaks fading away in the dim distance ;
glimpses here and there of the deep blue

HONOLULU.

ocean ; while far below us lay the green rice
fields and sugar plantations of the island of
Oahu. This spot is also of great historical
interest ; lor over this precipice were hurled
in battle the foes of Kamehanieha I., thus
giving him the victory and establishing his
right as the first king of all the islands. To
this day, at the foot of this rugged descent,
may be found skulls and human bones, relics
of the martial encounter.

Mount Tantalus is another favorite drive,
or ridj, as most frequently it is taken by eques-
trians. From its summit on a clear day one
is charmed with the sight of the many islands,
lying as emeralds set in the blue waters of
the Pacific. An equally magnificent view
may be had from Punch Bowl Hill, an extinct
crater a short distance from the city.

lolani Palace, only a block from the Ha-
waiian Hotel, is a large concrete building,
containing many rooms. Following the depo-
sition of the Queen, the interior was stripped
•■{ pictures, ornaments, and furniture, rendering
V : ather uninviting ; but most careful is the
.uention paid to the beautifully laid out, large

HONOLULU.

•grounds surrounding. Flowers, palms, and
ornamental trees feast the eye. Back of the
palace is the bungalow or private residence
of the royal family. The only reminder of
the late revolution lay in the steady footfall
of the sentry as he paced to and fro" in front
of the palace gates, and in his midnight hourly
cry of -All is well!" echoed from his watch
tower, on the stillness of the air.

The Kamehameha school and museum are
attractive to visitors. They were founded by
Mrs; Bishop, a half native, and daughter of a
chief. Being always foremost in every good
work, she won the love and respect of net
only the natives but the white population as
well.

•

The school is an industrial one, exclusively
for native boys, who may, if necessary, enter
at four or five years of age, and remain till
reaching manhood's estate, having acquired
a trade.

The museum, a brown stone building, fur-
nishes one with ample scope for study and
admiration. Here are found the ancient im-
plen- ents of war, and various kinds of domestic

HOXOLULU.

articles, such as bed covering made out of
the fil^re of pahn leaves and pounded into a
web-like tissue, retaining the heat better than
any down comfortable. A gentleman remarked
that he had tested its properties by sleeping
under it through a snow storm with the sky his
only canopy ; the result being that he had not
felt the cold. A very good imitation of stained
glass, with coloured devices traced on its
transparent film, is also obtained in the same
way. These and many more such articles
present a very fair specimen of the early life
of the Hawaiian, displaying their ingenuity in
workmanship, their wonderful inventive power,
combined with unfailing industry.

One room is almost entirely devoted to the
portraits of the royal family, among them that
of Princess Ruth, a very plain looking woman,
weighmg three hundred pounds, sister of
Kamehameha IV. The lobes of her nose were
so large that she was said to have three noses
and three chins. Many amusmg incidents
regarding her were related to us, which we
were incredulous to accept until gazing upon
her portrait, when we received them as facts.

HONOLULU.

One was that she was filled with a strong
desire to adopt the modern style of costume,
and had consequently to endure the torture.'
She would stand many minutes patiently hold-
ing her breath, whilst her maids drew in her
corset lace. When at last the signal was
given that the ordeal was over, she would
sink exhausted, and imediately away went
laces, hooks and buttons. This process was
repeated day after day, until a satisfactory
result was obtained, and the princess appeared
clothed as other people, but troubled slightly
with her respiratory organs. One day she
proposed indulging in a horse-back ride ; and
accordingly five men were instantly summoned
to her assistance— one on each side, one at
each ankle, and one at the back. At the
signal— one, two, three— all exerted to their
utmost their manly strength, but in vain;
the avoirdupois remained on terra fir ma.
Another effort, however, with the straining of
every muscle, proved more successful, and
her Royal Highness rose majestically in mid-
air but only to descend with a dull thud on
the horse's back. For an instant, the poor

s .

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animal trembled, but soon regained his equa-
nimity sufficiently to slowly walk off with
his precious freight.

The museum is justly proud of having on
exhibition one of the famous feather cloaks
worn by the kings of Hawaii. The feathers
are obtained from a bird now almost extinct
on the island. Strange to say, its feathers
are all black, with the exception of a few
yellow ones found under its wings ; conse-
(juently, one can easily understand how the
manufacturing of one of these cloaks, reaching
from the shoulders to the ground, incurs the
killing of innumerable birds and the saving
of feathers for many years, rendering it very
costly and much to be prized.

Many other buildings are well worthy of
notice — the Queen's Hospital, founded by
Queen Emma; the Lunalilo Home, for the
aged and infirm, are both handsome buildings
and devoted exclusively to the native popu-
lation. Oahu College and Punahou School,
established for the education of the children
of the missionaries, have now a wider field and
embrace the natives. The students partially

J '

HONOLULU.

2LJ

meet their college expenses by keeping the
large surrounding grounds in cultivation.

Among the educational institutions, we
visited the Kawaiahao School for girls, and
saw over one hundred, ranging in age from
twenty years to tiny tots of six or seven.
In addition to a solid English education, these
girls are instructed in every branch of house-
keeping, as well as in making all articles of
clothing. One strange feature was that while
the older girls conversed in their native tongue,
many of the little ones could not speak nor
sing in kanaka — a strong point in favour of
the received impression that the Hawaiian
language as well as the race is dying out.

The Kawaiahao Church, not far from the
school, erected of coral in 1840, and plastered
both inside and out, is one of the oldest build-
ings in Honolulu, but still stands in good
preservation. The royal pews inside the door
are elevated and upholstered in crimson plush.
Native service is held twice each Lord's Day.

Before leaving Honolulu, we spent a few
days at Waikiki, the seaside annex of the
hotel. It is in reality the private residence

IIOXOLULU.

and grounds of a gentlenKin who has leased
it to the hotel during his absence abroad with
his family. It proved a unique and pleasant
experience to us of hotel life. Instead of one
building in the centre of grounds, as we are
accustomed to find, live or six scattered cot-
tages take its place. Most of these contain
large, airy bedrooms, with doors or French
windows opening on the lawn, while the chief
one is situated close to the beach, with a large
open laiiai extending over the water. One
corner of this laiiai is enclosed by glass, con-
verting it into a fairy grotto with swinging
lights, easy chairs, pretty tables, etc., thus
alluring the book-worm or scribe as evening
closes in. Scattered over the lauai are lounges,
reclining chairs, small tables — all bamboo —
with books and papers strewn about- a picture
of comfort to the tired wayfarer, wJso may truly
think he has reached the paradise of the Pacific
when he steps inside this haven of rest. Here
can be found shelter from the warm rays of the
tropical sun, and our heated bodies cooled by
the salt breezes of the sea. The mind becomes
rested as we listlessly w^atch the white flutter-

IIOSOLULU.

J I

\\v^ sails bearing tlieir little crafts, filled with
pleasure-seekers, over the blue waters ; or as
closing our eyes we are lulled to sleep by the
gentle lapping of the waters against the pebbly
beach. Let us explore still farther in the
Haven of Rest ! Turning to our left, the laiuii
opens into a smaller one covered with green
vines and sweet with the fragrance of flowers.
A curve in the shore brings the ocean again
close to us, and here under the Eden-like bower,
with the surf rolling in at our side, the snowy
linen is spread, and, while three times a day
we here refresh the inner man, we are ecpially
absorbed in feasting our eyes on the entrancing
scenes surroimding us.

Opening from this bower is the large dining
room where the state dinners are laid. Pass-
ing from this through a curtained archway, we
find ourselves in a large room with low ceilings,
polished floor, quaint furniture, and strangely
decorated w^alls. This answers as parlour,
reception and ball room. Leaving here through
wide sliding doors and low^ French windows, we
pass into the large lanai in the front, while a
green lawn lies at our side.

HONOLULU.

While here we had the pleasure of witness-
ing a ball given by a German gentleman who
had been a fellow-passenger on the Alameda.
The ball room cleared of furniture, lighted
by electricity, decorated with ferns and flowers,
doors and windows thrown open, proved a
very inviting spot, while the lanai, with its
view of Old Ocean, ever restless and quivering
beneath the silvery rays of the moon, formed
a cool and aluring retreat for the heated
dancers. Along the drive and through the
grounds were dotted the many coloured lights
of the Chinese lanterns, which rendered even
more enchanting the soft strains of music
which emanated from the native orchestra
stationed beneath a vine clad porch. The
merry dance music was interspersed with their
weird native songs.

The wonderful colouring of the ocean owing
to the many coral reefs near the shore, is one
of the most beautiful and remarkable features
of these islands. All the rainbow tints are
visible, only much stronger in colouring ; from
the deep marine down to the palest l)lue,
shading into green, yellow, purple, and red,

HONOLULU.

:ness-
i who
mcda.
ghted
)wers,
^ed a
th its
Bering
Drilled
leated
h the
lights
I even
music
hestra
The
1 their

while as it washes against the shore it changes
to a dull browni tint. The surf breaks on
these reefs, thus affording fine, still-water
bathing along the shore. The w'ater is very
warm, allowing one to remain in several hours
without chilling. Moonlight bathing is a
favourite pastime and is greatly indulged in
by the guests of Waikiki.

" The cocoa, with its crest of spears,
Stands sentry round the crescent shore.
The algeroba bent with years.
Keeps watch beside the lauai door.
The cool winds fan the mango's cheek,
The mynah flits from tree to tree.
And zephyrs to the roses speak
Their sweetest words at Waikiki. .

owing
is one
matures
its are
; from
: blue,
d red,

" Like truant children of the deep
Escaped behind a coral wall
The lisping wavelets laugh and leap,
Nor heed Old Ocean's stern recall.
All day they frolic with the sands,
Kiss pinked-lipped shells in wanton glee,
Make windrows with their patting hands.
And singing sleep at Waikiki.

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'• O Waikiki ! O scene of peace !
O Home of beauty and of dreams!
No haven in the Isles of Greece
Can chord the harp to sweeter themes ;
For houris haunt the broad laiiai,
While scented zephyrs cool the lea
And looking down from sunset skies
The angels smile on Waikiki."

And now the day comes when, with many
regrets, we are forced to bid adieu to this
sunny isle with its bahiiy airs and summer
seas, its rocky crags and waving pahns, its
blue skies and silvery cascades ; and with
intense longings, inhaling for the last time
the fragrance of its perfumed woods, we turn
away and face the l)usy quay, where all is
bustle and excitement in preparing for an
ocean voyage.

The local steamer, Australia, lies in readi-
ness, while her decks are thronged with
passengers and their friends. On the quay
stands the Hawaiian band, specially honoring
this steamer by wafting, as she moves off, the
the sweet strains of " Home, Sweet Home,"
" Auld Lang Syne," and many native airs;

HONOLULU.

with

time

; turn

all is

or an

much to the discomforture of some of the
passengers, who are leaving home and many
friends behind them. One of the prettiest
customs in Honolulu, on the departure of a
vessel, is the decoration of the passengers by
their friends with wreaths of flowers or leis,
and as our ship's company seemed to have a
great many well-wishers, it was an exceedingly
charming sight to see them garlanded until
some appeared as moving banks \)f gaily
coloured flowers.

Finally, the gong signals, '• All visitors on
shore!" With a few prolonged partings and
many warm hand shakings, our friends pass
down the gangway and take up their position
on the quay. Slowly the vessel moves away,
while the band plays the national air, and
the passengers throw their Ich to be caught
by their dear ones on shore; should thev
miss, and drop into the water, the native
water nymphs seize them, and throwing them
over their heads, disport themselves amphi-
biously, so long as a prospect remains of
receiving another nickel from the recedinjj-
tleck.

HONOLULU.

The grand, old sentinel, Diamond Head, is
soon rounded, and the city of the Paradise
of the Pacific obscured from our view. We
turn our faces seaward and once more confront
an ocean voyage.

What a bright, lively list of passengers we
have — one hundred and fifteen — most of whom
have passed through the ceremony of becoming
acquainted, while visiting the islands, conse-
(juently all formality is waived. Indeed, in the
saloon the jokes and brilliant remarks are
passing with such rapidity from table to table,
that the captain rises with assumed dignity to
call his guests to order, which of course has
but the effect of renewed hilarity and fresh
outburst of witicisms.

Seven days of bright sunshine and calm
sailing over the blue waters of the Pacific ;
seven evenings to gaze in silent admiration
upon Old Sol, with his ever varying tints,
sinking to rest in his watery bed ; and then to
turn even ere his last beam fades, to enjoy the
silvery moon's appearing, casting her cold rays
on the briny deep. On deck the balmy air
of the tropics cidds enchantment to the soft

If t

HONOLULU.

strains of the guitar and mandolin, accompanied
by the sweet Hawaiian songs.

The last day on shipboard arrives, and once
again we pass between the Golden Gates, and
San Francisco lies before us. With many
regrets, adieux are exchanged, which to us
meant but the scattering of friendship's links
over continents far and wide. Our Honolulu
trip becomes a bright dream of the past.

"An ocean planet rounded by a glory,
The billowy glory of the great Pacific,
Withdrawn in spheres remote of rolling blue.

"An island central, with inferior groupings,
Like Jupiter, in the cerulean distance,
Magnificent among his circling moons "