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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Thoso too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds i des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 ! "t 2 3 4 5 6 f\ K m f\ "^i^m M^MmsmM mp §6 Op i®3;.^1 LV ^t1 d i*^ ^0 ■^ K. E. M. Ba LL kl . Z/^u) ^..yia/e-^ ('■. X'^ (G/?^rt..>^:M^A^ . '•>a'/ r/^ ^C>^ MMMBMMlMita**' H H O N O L l: l U A GLIMPSE OF (HONOLULU 3" April, 1895. K. B. xVl. BUJ^L. TORONTO ARBUTHNOT & ADAMSOxN, PRINTERS 9i Adklaide St. East. f Honolulu. LITTLE f^weetness for you," were the lisping words that Ccime from a flaxen-haired little maiden, as she handed a bouquet of roses to one of our party. This, accompanied by a basket of fruit and flowers, made us feel that we were not entirely strangers in the far-away city of San Francisco, but had a few friends to wish us "bon voyage," as we set sail for Honolulu. Honolulu ! How the very name seemed an inspiration ! We had talked about it by day, and dreamed about it by night ; and now our great desire was about to be realized. The day had actually arrived, the hour was near at hand, when we would heave anchor and set sail for the sunny isle in the Mid-Pacific. ?! HONOLULU. Our passenger list numbered al^out fifty, among them being Prince Kawananakoa, or l)etter known as Prince David of Hawaii, and Hon. Paul Neumann, of Honolulu, who were returning from Washington, whither they had been sent in the interests of the deposed Queen Liliuokalani. Emerging from our state- rooms at six o'clock on the morning of the seventh day of a very pleasant but unevent- ful voyage, we found ourselves skirting the shore of the island of Oahu, on which Hono- lulu is situated. After hurrying to the saloon, and partaking of a hasty breakfast, we again appear on deck, to find that our good ship, Alameda, had rounded Diamond Head, bring-- ing us in full view of the city of Honolulu, nestling among its tropical foliage, and sloping gradually from the foot-hills down to the water's edge. Our vessel anchored until the pilot and health officer came on board, and then slowly steamed towards the quay, freighted with many wondering, expectant hearts at the new world opening before them. Our attention was first attracted to the small native boys who swam out to the vessel's HONOL UL U. side, their brown skin looking like polished mahogany beneath the clear waters of the Pacific. Their large, dark eyes would follow the movements of the passengers until a nickel was thrown, when one would immediately disappear under the water, soon to re-appear with his prize, holding it between his fingers at arm's length, to assure the incredulous passengers of his success. Stowing it away safely in his mouth, he was ready for the next dive. As we drew into the quay what a novel sight met our eyes ! There thronged the copper skinned natives, clad in their gay attire, while the rustle of excitement and the look of expectancy on their faces, at once justified us in conjecturing that they were there to welcome home their Prince, and also to hear the latest news from Washington, hoping that through his and Commissioner Neumann's infiuence their Queen would be restored to her throne, and a monarchy re-established. As the Prince stepped off the gangway, numerous wreathes of flowers, or leis, w^^re thrown around his neck, and he was escorted in state to the royal carriage, where a white-liveried footman flONOLVLV. ■ ■ Standing on the carriage stood in ^vaiting. Sund . ^^^^ ^^^^^.j_ step, the P"-V:S ,e was driven off to the and amid their cheers he j ^^. pi.ce deposed Queen s res^nee ^^^.^^ ^^^^^^^ In a very short time s ^^„„,,,iu, and through the narrow f^^ ^^,^,, set down after about ten nnmrtes ^^^ ,i,y-looking at the Hawauan Hotel ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^ building with ve-"d ;;-,^,,„, shaded by --' ^""°""ts .i t opical trees. In con- ,iumerous palms ana t ^ ^ ^^^ .^ nection with the ^o';'; ^^^^ „, bungalows, „u,„ber of pretty htle CO t-o ^^„ ^,ke where, if the g^'^f^f-tnlat the hotel, thus up their residence, ^^^^^^^^J ^^„,, ufe eonv hlving all the q"-'-;;^";, hotel. In one bined with the pleasure ott ^^^^^^^ ^^^, of these bungalow-s we ^^ere ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ready to enjoy the ne ortumty o In the hotel we had a „r Employed studying the different nati^d-^ ,„ the building -- ^^7tead waiter, with waiters, while the trench shrugs, many gesticulations and sgg^^ ^^.^^ ^^^ ^^^ ushered the guests to tne II HONOLULU. Age \vd, the ace. itled ant:i lown 3king ories, :d by \ con- are a alows, take 1, thus com- In one ed and unity o f .n ployed apanese er, with shrugs, all the suavity and politeness of his race. In the office, we found a Portuguese book-keeper, with the sweetest little Japanese lady for a wife, while through the halls and corridors were seen native bell-boys who ran to and fro in answer to the numerous calls of the guests. Though each nation retained the original tongue when conversing with one another, English was the common one used by all. The arrival of each steamer was celebrated the same evening by a concert given by the Hawaiian band, in the grounds of the hotel. A picturesque sight it was — the lawn and band-stand lighted with coloured electric lights; the citizens thronging the grounds, while the guests assembled on the large open balcony of the hotel (or, as the natives call it, lanai), and were charmed with the strange music and weird singing of the native band. It was a truly fairy-like scene as we gazed on that happy throng, clad in their light attire, intent on the enjoyment of the moment. The prevailing dress of Honolulu is white. The ladies wear it morning, afternoon, and jMn* 8 HONOL UL U. ^ ; 4 evening ; the only difference being that the costume becomes more ehiborate as the day advances. The gentlemen wear white linen suits, varying their evening dress by a short linen coat coming to the waist, and pointed in the back, which certainly looks cool and appropriate for the warm climate. Years ago, the missionaries, after vain attempts to estab- lish a dress reform among the native or kanaka women, succeeded finally in introducing the Mother- Hubbard wrapper, it being the least confining of any garment. It was adopted by them and still remains the fashionable gown worn by the middle and lower classes. The genuine kanaka is as dark as our negro, lack- ing the curly hair. The larger proportion of the population is composed, of half-breeds, and grade from a copper colour to the least perceptible tint. Some of the young ladies are very fine looking, — aquiline features, large, dark, lustrous eyes, and straight, black, glossy hair. The mingling of the two races on all occasions for social intercourse and public balls strikes the visitor at first as very strange HONOLULU. the day linen short )inted I and 5 ago, estab- ;anaka ag the e least ^ted by gown The •o, lack- ,rtion of -breeds, Ihe least g ladies ■s, large, , glossy on all [d public :y strange and objectionable ; but once meet and converse with the educated Hawaiian, and that impres- sion vanishes ; for one recognizes in them a bright intelligence as well as a degree of refine- ment and sensitiveness that might put many a white to the blush. The kanakas live chiefly on fish and pot. The latter is a native dish made from kalo (pronounced taro), a vegetable resembling a turnip. It is boiled, and then pounded into a paste. When ready for use it is thinned with water to about the consistency of starch. It is served in bowls, the kanakas winding it around their first two fingers and eating with great rapidity. It certainly seems to agree with them, for some of the women are enormous, weighing as much as two to three hundred pounds. The uncivilized kanakas eat their fish raw% preferring the heads and throwing away the remainder. This custom is still retained by some of the lower class. We had frequently noticed, during our outings, a white flag flying from some of the smaller houses ; and, on inquiry, found that it w^as a sign of poi being made and sold there. Our lO HONOLULU. curiosity being aroused, we asked our driver one morning to draw up before one of these places to allow us to alight and investigate for ourselves. On the floor at either end of a long trough sat a Chinaman, bare to the waist, holding between his hands, high above his head, a large wooden pounder which he brought down with all his might on the doughy-like mass which lay before him By his side stood a pail of water, into which, between the strokes, he dipped his hands, and with lightning-like rapidity, slapped the water on' the pounder, thus preventing the embedding of it in the sticky paste. The exertion necessary for this manual work was accompanied by a great flow of perspiration from the Chinamen's bodies which one of our party suggested, much to our disgust, added somewhat to the flavour of the poi. ' We assured him, however, that the hotel poi was machine made, and had not to undergo this process. One of the ladies undertook to take a kodak picture of the scene, but one Celestial, with all His superstitious nature aroused, dropped his implement, and, with terror de- t .If 19 HONOLULU. II ill ver lese for )f a aist, his he the By hich, ands, d the the The c was ^ration of our added We ^qI was go this to take elestial, iroused, rror de- iSV picted on every feature, disappeared from view and we saw him no more. The fruits of Honokdu are numerous — bananas being the chief one foi export. Pine- apples are grown to some extent, while the bread-fruit trees are cultivated and used as an article of food on the island. The mango is very plentiful and grows on a large tree with a narrow leaf, somewhat resembling our peach leaf, while the fruit reminds one of an inverted pear in shape. When ripe, it is very luscious and has the flavour of a pineapple and a banana combined. It contains a large pit, and is eaten with some difficulty, render- ing necessary not only a finger bowl but a large basin of v/ater and towel to complete the creature comfort. The papaia grows on a small tree with a straight, slender trunk, crowned with a cluster of large, green leaves. The fruit, like the cocoanut, grows immedi- ately under the leaves and varies in size from that of a cucumber to a cantaloupe. It re- sembles the latter very much, and is served on the table in the same way. The inside is covered with small green seeds, is a rich 12 HONOL UL U. orange in colour, and has a sweet but rather sickening taste. It is recommended for indi- gestion, and when used in moderation is said to be very beneficial. The water lemon is another fruit production of the island, not unlike the pomegranate, very seedy and rather tasteless. I'oremost among the shade and orna- mental trees is the algeroba, a large branching tree growing wild ; its line, ferny leaf furnishing a beautiful feathery foliage. The royal palm well deserves its name, for it is the most regal and stately tree in Honolulu. Its tall, straight trunk covered with smooth, silvery bark, and crowned with a rich green cluster of slender palm leaves is truly magnificent. There are many avenues of these trees, and any resident may well be proud of them, as they contribute largely to the grandeur and character of the place. On entering the harbour, the cocoanut palms are the first trees noticed, towering high above all others, though by no means the straightest. Their long, slender trunks present the appearance of being weary of bearing up such a weight of fruit and leaves, and they seemingly loll and bend under their HONOLULU. 13 her idi- 5 aid a is not Lther )rna- :hing shing palm regal :aight ;, and lender re are isident tribute of the coanut )wering means trunks eary of leaves, ler their heavy burden. It was a great puzzle to us how the fruit was gathered off these very tall trees, with no branches to climb. It appears that each year's growth leaves a slight ring on the l)ark, and the agile kanaka, with his bare feet, uses these almost imperceptible rings as stepping stones, and accomplishes his perilous ascent in safety. ' Palms, plants, and flowers of every description and variety grow in great luxuriance, and in driving through the residential portion our eyes are dazzled by the brilliant floral display of every hue and colour, and the variety of tropical foliage. We attended a luau or native feast given by the ladies in aid of the Church and con- ducted in true native style. A drive of fifteen or twenty minutes brought us to the entrance of the grounds. Passing through the gates our attention was at once attracted to a strange sight, and drawing near we beheld scattered over the grass five or six pigs of difterent sizes, nicely dressed, and as we should suppose ready for market. But not so in this case. The kanakas had heated lava stones and were now packing them in the pigs. ii 14 HONOLULU. This accomplished, the animals weie placed in a hole dug in the ground previously lined with hot stones. Several layers of banana leaves formed the covering, while over this, fine straw matting was closely tucked in, the whole being hidden from view by a (juantity of mother earth. The cooking process occu- pied two hours, after which the kanakas again went to work, removing the earth and matting. Immediately the hot steam poured forth, and pails of water were iiecessary to sufficiently cool the leaves to allow of their removal. Roast pig was then revealed to us looking brown and savory in its hot bed of stones. The next addition was a large wooden tray, upon which the pork was placed in small chunks, having been cut up by the expert fingers of the kanakas, and thus made ready to be served at the feast. The next group that interested us was the kanaka women preparing the fish. After thorough cleansing and cutting into small pieces they were laid on leaves (a long nar- row leaf called ti, pronounced tea). In these they were carefully wrapped, tied at ■•*i HONOLULU. 15 was ut up , and feast. LS the After small one end and placed on the coals, where the women faithfully watched and turned them till cooked. Again we passed on, this time to centre our attention on a little circle who were intently watching the boiling contents of a large pot. This we found to be grated cocoa- nut, milk, and ti leaves, which, when boiled sufficiently, would make a rich sauce to be served with the savory meat. It was truly a holiday feast for the kanakas — men, women and children arrayed in their Hght costumes; women in their loose gowns with elaborately embroidered .yokes, many of them evidently donned for the hrst time. Jewellery is very seldom worn by the natives, its place being supplied by flowers of every shape, colour, and variety, strung into wreaths called leis, and worn about the neck and around the hats. They do not, however, carry the custom so far as the Tahitians, who, through their pierced ears, introduce the slender stem of the large, red flower, hibiscus, which, nestling against their dark skins, pro- duces a most artistic effect. No kanaka lO HONOL UL U. would consider the holiday toilet complete without one or more of these Ids around the neck, and indeed, on the present occasion, every visitor was adorned, and felt justly proud of the necklet of natural beauty. Several ladies connected with the royal family presided over some of the booths, and as a mark ^of distinction wore lets of yellow feathers, very rare and expensive. The feast proper was served in two rustic pavilions erected for the occasion. One, the " Pink Table," was seated for the guests, and considered of more aristocratic bearing, con- sequently higher fee charged; while the other, the " Blue Table," was merely laid with a strip of matting on either side of a low table. The menu was precisely the same at both and served equally well. The descent of rain just as the feast was prepared did not in the least dampen the ardour of the pleasure-seekers, who poured into the tents and occupied seats in a remark- ably short time. Having watched the culinary preparation we had no desire to partake of refreshments. HONOLULU. •7 hut some of our party, not quite so fastidious, and havinj:^ actiuircd the knack of manipuhit- \n