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32X

■I T

TRATELS

iir

CANADA,

AND

THE UNITEB STATES,

1816 AND 1817.

By Lieut. FRANCIS HALL,

14tII light DHAQOONg, II, P.

1
1

•

BOSTON :

RE-PrHMSHRI) Viuni TIIH I.nNDON IDITION
By Wi'lU and Lilly.

1818.

U -^

WILLIAM BATTIE WRIGHTSON,

WILLIAM EMPSON,

AND

ROBERT MONSEY ROLFE,

BROTHER WYKEHAMISTS,

THESE TRAVELS,

ARE DEDICATED,

TBKIR OLD 8CB00L-FEL10W

AND AmeilONATE rRIEND,

FRANCIS HALL.

1 1^

*W.4.^ji-^^

TRAVELS IN CANADA,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

VOYAGE.

January, 1816.

I SAILED from Liverpool on the 20tli of Jiiniiaiy, af-
ter having been detained several weeks by a continu-
ance of west winds, which usually prevail through
the greater part of the winter. Indeed, they liave
become so prevalent of late years, as to aj>proach
very nearly to the nature of a trade wind. They
forced us to lie to, twelve, out of the lorty-foiu- days
we spent on our passage. Our vessel was an Ame-
rican, excellently built and comniande<l. The Ame-
rican Captains are supposed, with some reason, to
make quicker voyages than the English, with whom
celerity was, during the war, a less essential object.
They pride themselves on the speed of their ships
as sportsmen do on that of their horses. Our Mi-
nerva was one of the first class of these '* Horses of
the Main." They prefer standing across the Atlan-
tic in the direct line of their port, to the easier but
more tedious route of the trades. Tiiis sporting
spirit commonly costs their passengers a itvi (jiialms
of the stomach, but saves time ; no trifling conside-
ration, when time is so miserably spent.

Landsmen, who shrink from the seemingly endless
breadth of the whole Atlantic, commonly divide it
into three distances, viz. : the Azores, the Banks,
and Soundings. Nothing occurred to make the lati-

,. (

\ -7
1.

'•■y-

VOYAGE.

tude of the Azores cognizable by terrestrial eyes ;
but the discoioiiiing of the water, and a heavy in-
cnmbent fog sufficiently evinced our approach to the
Banks ; these symptoms were accompanied by the
usual degree of cold, which indicates the proximity
of land, whether above the water or below it. We
made the following observations on the temperature
in this neighbourhood :

* ',

Time.

Air,

Water.

Feb. 14.

6 t>. M.

6e»

590

IS.

9 A. M.

53»

480

10 A. M.

dO>

430

11 A. M.

480

330

I F. M.

480

33«

6 P. M.

380

320

ID.

10 A. M.

370

330

Stundings 35 feet.

17.

10 A. M.

380

57*

2 p. M.

400

570

18.

9 A. M.

«20

640

19.

12 A. M.

•00

61«*

We had eagerly anticipated a regale of cod Bsh on
the Banks ; lines were thrown out, and the silver
mail of one victim soon glistened, as he ascended
through the green wave ; but, alas ! he proved no
harbinger of fortune, and it seemed as if he had been
made the cat's paw of his mute society, who, by no
means satis6ed with the result of their first experi-
ment, refused unanimously to repeat it. Luckily we
were not imitating the heroes of the " Almanack des
Govrmands^^* who in ohi and modern days, have made
the grand tour of gluttony for the express purpose
of surfeiting themselves at every classick spot with
the delicacy which had won its renown.

* Some of these variations seem to indicate the Tempera-
ture ot" the Gulf stream, into which we were sometimes forced
by the prevalence of MT. W. wimls. without knowiug It; the
Americau f-aptains very comiooDly use the Thermometer to
ascertain this circumstance.

...

"" T"'' .V|

TOTAGE.

On Ihe 27tb, we touched on the Gulf Stream,
where it flows round the Bank, and made the follow-
ing observations : —

Air.

Water.

Long.

Lat.

April 27.

11 A.M.

52"

G-l"

64<» w.

30C 34' .N.

28.

fl A. M.

53"

ija"

29.

10 A. M.

60«

54"

68" w.

39(» 22' N

March 1.

12 A. M.

520

■IS"

70» w.

390 30' N

10 A. M.

49*

45"

It is to this difference of temperature betwixt the
Gulf Stream and the adjacent waters, that M. Vohiey
attributes the Bank fogs. He observes, (Tome 1,
Page 238,)

" // en doit risulter Ic double rffd dhtne evaporation plus
'■^ ahondanie, provoquec par la tiidatr di as caiix cxoUqucs
" et d''unc condensation plus etcnduc, a raison dc la J'roidmr
" des caux indigims et dc leiir alinosphere, qui precisemcnt
" se trouve dans la direction des vents du nord-cstJ'''*

There is some difficulty in this part of the voyage,
to escape the action of Ihe stream to Ihe south, which
soon begins to be sensible, and at the same time to
avoid the dangerous shoals of Nantucket to the north.

I felt little concern about Nantucket, at this time,
except to keep at a respectful distance from it ; but
I have since met with some interesting particulars
relative to this inglorious little island. Its inhabi-
tants are reckoned at 5000, some of whom are worth
20,000L er-h. It contains 23,000 acres of land, and
was origiiuiiiy possessed by the Nantucks, an In-
dian tribe, some of whom still remain on it, having
peaceably incorporated with the Europeans, and
joined in their occupations. The soil was originally
a barren sand, but the industry of the inhabitants has

* Vide Humboldt's Observations on tlie Variations of Tem-
perature in tlie Gulf Stream, and on the Bank. — " Personal
Narrativft'^ vol. 1, page 50. He ol)serves a diflerence olnuly
13« between them. This was in Juiic. Fide, also, M. Vol-
aey's Table of experiments, page 23."), in ivhich the fi;rralesl
diflerence is 23o. Ours was 31<*.

W^"**"'*' ■

rr'i^J

■V"

— •*«•■-'"

VOYAGE.

\ i

made it capable of pasturing large flocks of sheep,
which constituted, in the infancy of the settlement, a
co.ninon stock, but their chief employment is whale-
\ng, at which they are equally diligent and daring ;
doii!jlin!i Cape Horn in pursuit of their game. The
prolils of (his trade afford them both the necessaries
and coiiifoifs of life. The luxuries are forbidden
both by their character and religion, which is unmix-
ed Presbylerianism. The only recreation they used
to allow themselves, was driving in parties to a little
spof, which they rescued from barrenness, converted
info a kind of publick garden. The traveller, from
whom I borrow this account, gives a lively picture of
their hospitality, and of the simplicity of their man-
ners,* which supersedes the necessity of those inven-
tions and restraints so inefficient in more polished so-
cieties. The whole commimity affords an admirable
instance of what human industry will effect, when
left to the unshackled direction of its own exer-
tions. They have, particularly the women, an odd
habit of taking a small quantity of opium every morn-
ing. It is difficult to divine whence they have im-
ported this unwholesome luxury. f The only books
this traveller found in the island, except the bible,
where Hudibras and Josephus ; many of the inhabi-
tants could repeat lines of the former, without having
much notion to what they referred. Martha's vine-
yard is a settlement of much the same kind as Nan-
tucket. It derives its name from that part of it
which was originally the portion of the first settler's
danghfc. They formerly constituted part of the
Slafe of New York, but now of Massachusetts.

The last few days of our passage were blest with
such favouring gales, and an atmosphere so warm and

* Mc mentions a great outcry raised in the commonwealth,
l)y the luxury of a spring waggon.

1 1 hat^e since heard it remarked, that this practice is very

general in America.

^^^*i1V.;^S^■>5.,.

^.-.v..

.^*

VOYAGE.

iheep,
ent, a
whale-
iring ;
The
Bsariea
j'ldden

unuaix-
y used
a little
iverted
r, from
;ture of
lir man-
3 inven-
ilied so-
Irnirable
t, when
n exer-
, an odd
ry morn-
ave ira-
,y books
le bible,

inhabi-
t having

s vine-
fas Nan-
|rt of it

iettler's
of the
its.

ist with

Lrm and

bright that the sea gods seeri)ed resolved we should
part good friends. — LFiiluckily liiis gleam of good for-
tune was extinguished in a cold heavy fog, when we
approached the Aiiierican coast, by which we were
deprived of the lovely prospect which opens upon
the entrance of the harLour of New York. \\e
anchored close to the quays, and eagerly began to
escape from the place of our durance, which Dr.
Johnson flallers \\i oi! I.e st\ !c-< '' it a prison, with a
chance of being drowned.'' The chance of being
drowned forms the least of its njiseiics. In most
cases it is a complete annihilation of all faculties, both
of mind and body : perhaps I should except that of
mastication, which went on, generally with great vig-
our, during the whole of I he Aoyage. — I owe honour
able mention to our " C'ou:pi(gno)is de Voyage,
who, though of many trades and nations, united in
the maintenance of harmony, and in support of the
general weal. We were about eighteen in number;
among whom were several Americans, who contri-
buted their full share of good humour and sociability.
We disputed for the honour of our countries, but our
disputes invariably ended, as, it were to be wished,
all national disputes should end, in a hearty laugh ;
and when 1 saw, during these forty-four days, how
easily the jarring elements of our body corporate
blended for general convenience, I was induced to
i:hink thd rulers of the Earth take too much both pains
and credit unto themselves, for holding together the
patch-work of society.

',i

[ 10

CHAPTER II.

NEW YORK.

March 5th,

JN EW York is built on the tongue of land, at the
point of which the Hudson and East rivers effect
their junction. The principal street (Broadway)
runs along the ridge, and terminates in a small pa-
rade, planted with trees, designed originally for a bat-
tery ; a destiny it fulfilled during the war ; but since
" tlie piping time of peace," it has again reverted to
the occupancy of fashionable pedestrians, and moon-
light lovers. — From this point the eye commandSi
towards the left,. the coast of Long Island, with the
wooded heights of Brooklyn ; on the right, Sandy-
Hook, with the mounfain shores of Jersey ; while
the mouth of the Bay lies before it, studded with
bastioned islands, and gay with the white canvas of
the American river craft, glancing like graceful sea-
birds through their native element. From Broad-
way, streets diverge irregularly to either river, an4
terminate in extensive warehouses, and quays, con-
stantly crowded. The houses are generally good,
frequently elegant, but it requires American eyes to
discover that Broadway competes with the finest
streets of London or Paris. New York is reckoned
to contain at present about 100,000 inhabitants, and
is spreading rapidly northward. I was told that
2000 houHcs were contracted for, to be built in the
ensuing year. There are fifty churches, or chapels,
of iiitferent sects ; a proof that a national church il
not indispensable for the maintenance of religion.

NE\fr YORK.

The Town Hall is an elegant building of white
marble, standing at right angleii to Broadway. The
plot of ground in front of it is railed round and plant-
ed. The inferior is well arranged for the purposes of
business. The state rooms of the Mayor and Cor-
poration are ornamented with the portraits of several
of the Ciovernours of New York, and whole lengths of
the officers most distinguished during the late war.
Some of these seemed well executed ; but if the
State should always reward upon as large a scale,
their future heroes must consent to occupy the gar-
rets of the building. There is a good portrait of the
first Dutch Governourof the State. That of Colum-
bus was repairing. It is a considerable defect in
this building;, that the basement story is of a red
granite, which, at a distance, has the appearance of
brick. The staircase is circular, lighted by a cupo-
la, and, in the style of its construction, not unlike
that of Drury-lane theatre. The state rooms, and
courts of justice are on <he first floor. The sessions
court was sitting during my visit, and 1 went in.
My first impression arose from the truly republican
plainness of justice, stripped of all *' po(np and cir-
cumstance," flowing wigs, ermine, and silk gowns.
Both the Judges and Counsellors were in the dress
of private gentlemen, the latter hardly to be distin-
guished from the spectators, who, with^t much ce-
retnony, crowded round the tribunal. ''A female was
tried for stealing several hundred dollars ; she wan
found guilty, and sentenced to imprtf(onment. The
punishment of death is abolished in (he slate of New
York in all cases, except murder and arson : other
crimes are punished by confincnent and labour.
To America belongs the glory d( having first made
the experiment of the least waste of life with which
society can be preserved. The General Hospital
and Lunatic Asylum are contiguous buildings. 1
had an opportunity of visiting them with one of the
Physicians, and was pleased to observe the feeling

jfc' ■•

r! [i

I ^

1 1

i \

NEW YORK.

kindness of bis manner towards the unfortunate vic-
tims of insanity, wiio seemed to greet hirn as a
friend. One pat lent was pointed on! to us, wh<9se
delusion consisted in imagining himself black.

I spent an evening at the theatre. It is a shabby
building without, and poorly li<^hted and decorated
within. The play was Coiumhus, a wretched hash
of dillerent plays and siorics, uuserably acted. The
audience, like that of a Portsmouth theatre, consisted
almost entirely of men. — 1 saw nothing resembling a
Lady in the house, auil but few females. The Ame-
ricans are generally con^idered to have little taste for
the drama ; or for musick, beyond what is necessary
for a dance ; dancing being iti New York, as in most

{larts of the world, the favoinite amusement of the
adies ; they dance cotillions, because they fancy they
excel in French dances, and despise country dances
for the same reoson. The young men have the cha-
racter of being dissipated, living much apart from
their families in boarding houses. Good dinners are
in high esteem in the upper commercial circles, and
I had occasion to bear witness both to the skill of
their cooks, and the hospitality of the entertainers.^
I wai. naturally curious to visit the famous Steam
frigate, cr Floating Battery, built for the defence of
the harboi|r ; this favour 1 obtained through Dr.
Mitchell, tVe great philosopher of New York, of
whom it is (it to mention, that he has been lately en-

♦ Two curious itistaiircs ol' disease were related at one of
Ihese dinner partite |,y (ieneral Nortli. One, of the tarantula
inl'ertiou, in wliicli !ho sntrticr, a leinale, was veheiiiently af-
fected l)y musick, ani| the ajipliration of particular odnui-s, ia
discovering wliich slie evinced an acutenrKS of 8niell, infinitely
beyond what is found in t|„. healthful state. The other w^s
the (asa of a female, *Niio was atlacktul hy lethargy, at the end
of which h»r menuny l?a<l wholly forsaken lier, so that she wai
oblisjcd to iM'i^in af|;ain the rudin'ients of education ; hut u|ion a
recurrence of the lit, aconsiderahle time afterwards, sh« awoke*
perfectly restored to a recollection of all she had kuowu pre-
vioui to tbti first attack of the disuaitc.

'^:

NEW YORK.

vic-

B a
lOse

bby
ated
hash
The
isted
ing a
A me-
te for
ssary

most
)f the
f they
lancea
e cha-
t from
era are
!8, and

kill of

lera

Steam
nee of
;h Dr.
.rk, of .
.\y en-

onc of
jiantiila
[intly af-
Honni, itt
L'liiituly
Iher w^s
lllic v.ixA
IrIic was
ii|mn a
m awoke,

|wu pre-

gaged in the Icthyology of his country, an«1 has dis-
covered, or, to use his own expression, " can lift up
bis hand and declare," that the Smelt of the Trans-
atlantic epicure is neither more nor lests than the
Smelt so honuiired by European gourmands. He is

besid(

of consideraitli

tes a man

and mentioned several o^ his plans for (he impiove-
ment of the Steam Frigate, in constrncling which I
believe he bore a principal part. One plan was to
obviate the intolerable htat in the neighhuurhood of
the engines, by introducing fresh air through tubes
near the surface of the water, bent upwards to pre-
vent its entering. Another was to discharge bum
the engine a force of water sufficient to overwhelm
any boarding boat, or drench the gun deck of any
, ship alongside. — The length of the frigate is 150 teet ;
breadth of beam 60 ; and thickness of sides lour
feet. She works eilher way, and is said to be suffi-
ciently manageable, and well calculated fur harbour
defence.

Considerable apprehensions were entertained dur-
ing the war, of a dumiciiiurv visit to New York by a
British squadron. This alarm gave birth to the va-
rious forts and batteries which now grin defiance on
the different islets at the mouth of tlic river, and pro-
ject from several points along the tputys of the town.

. Fortifications were also thrown up on the opposite
heights of Brookl}n, on Long Island, where they
command the city. I niiuie a tour of them one niorn-

, ing, and found five forts or redoubts connected by
baslioncd lines. The three on the right were cover-
ed by an inundation, the remainder sufficiently ap-
proachable. The whole are now abandoned, and

. liaHlening to decay. The soil of the island is sand,
mixed with scattered blocks of talkous granite,* used
for paving the city,

* Besidoi Granite, I picked up Quartz willi tholrltc, and Ly-
dian stone

<I^£T~

--I ■■ iji rn^

NEW rORK.

There is a small museutn in New York, the best
part of which is a collection of birds, well preserved ;
and the worst a set of wax work figures, among whom
are Saul in a Frenchman's embroidered coat, the
Witch of Endor in the costume of a House-maid, and
Samuel in a robe de chambre and cotton night-cap.
The establishment is not in very learned hands, to
judge by the labels on the different Articles : I read
on one, " a peace of Seder," vice " a piece of Cedar."
I had little means of a^^certaining the state of litera-
ture in New York. Books were extremely dear :
cheap editions are indeed struck off of all our modern
Poets, but they are more expensive than books of
the same size in England, and are miserably incor-
rect. The Edinburgh and Quarterly Reviews are
reprinted as soon as they arrive, and are in great re-
quest ; but I could hear of no American Review or
Magazine, which even American Booksellers would
recommend. I met however with a few good works
of native growth : Wilson's Ornithology is not only
interesting for its descriptions, but the plates are exe-
cuted and coloured in a very superiour style. I
found a calculation in it relative to the flocks of wild
pigeons, which move annually northward, from the
back of the central and southern states, enough to
startle an European reader, but which has in a great
measure been confirmed to me by eye witnesses.
He says, " he observed a flock passing betwixt Franc-
fort and the Indiana territory, one mile at least in
breadth ; it took up four hours in passing, which, at
the rate of one mile per minute, gives a length of
240 miles, and supposing three pigeons to each square
yard, gives 2,2»0,272,000 pigeons." Their breed-
ing places he describes as many miles in extent.
Birds of prey glut themselves above, hogs and other
animals are fattened with the squabs which tumble
down, and cover the ground, on every high wind.
This prodigious increase secma to resemble nothing

NEW YORK.

SO much as the herring shoals.^ Indeed both the
aerial and aquatick communities seem to stand in
need of Mr. Malthus*s checks to superabundant po-
pulation. f It irould be ingratitude to quit New York
without mention of its erudite and right pleasant His-
torian, Diedrich Knickerbocker,! whose history of
the first Dutch governours of the settlement deserves
a favoured niche by the side of the revered Cid Ha-
met Benengeli, and the facetious Biographer of my
Uacle Toby.

* " The Turtle Doves are so nuraeroiis in Canada, that the
Bishop has been forced to excommunicate them oftencr than
once, upon account of the damage they do to the produce of
the earth. We embarked and made towards a meadow in the
neighbourhood of which the trees were covered with that sort
of fowls more than with leaves. For just then it tvas the sea-
son in which they retire from the north countries and repair to
the southern climates, and one would have thought that all the
Turtle Doves upon earth had chosen to pass through this place."
— Lahontan. I. Letter xi. 1687.

f To preserve the skins of birds, Mr. Wilson recommends a
strong solution of arsrnick to be rubbed within side, and a lit-
tle powdered arsenick to be sprinkled outwardly, with camphor
io the box.

} Washington Irvine, Esq.

''11

»■*»■»-' mw «r»^

L 16 j

CHAPTER in.

I -r

!i <.

STEAM BOAT

1 EMBARKED on the 9th of March, in the Paraxon
steaiti pa.;ke(, from New York to Albany. The
wmler had been le%s severe than usual, which indue-
eti the captain to attempt making his way up thfi
Hmlson earlier than is customary. These st«iam
boats are capable of accommodating from 2 to 300
pasHei^ers ; they are about 120 feet in length, and as
ele<i,iv:it in their construction as (he awkward-looking
HMOiiinery in the centre will permit. There are two
caiiins, one for the ladies, into which no gentleman is
admitted without the concurrence of the whole com>
paiiy. The interior arrangements, on the whole, re-
semble those of our best packets. I was not without
apprehension, that a dirmer in such a situation, for
above 1^0 persons, would very much resemble (he
scramble of a mob ; I was however agreeably surpris-
ed bv a dinner han<lsomely served, very good at ten-,
dance, and a general attention to quiet and decorum :
*^ Tridy, thought I, these republicans are not so
barbarous." Indeed when the cabin was lighted up
for tea and sandwiches in the evening, it more re-
sembled a ball-room supper, than, as might have been
expected, a Rtage-eoacn meal. The charge, includ-
ing board, from New York to Albany, 160 miles, is
seven dollars.

We 8(arted under the auspices of a bright frosty
morning : The first few minutes were naturally spent
by me in examining the machinery, by means of
which our huge leviathan, with such evident ease,

t f) u

flTBAM BOAT.

won her way against the opposing current : but more
interesting objects are breaking fast on the view ; on
oiir right are the sloping sides of New York Island,
studded with villas, over a soil from which the hand
of cultivation has long since rooted its woodland glo-
ries, substituting the more varied decorations of park
and shrubbery, intersected with brown stubbles and
meadows ; while on our left, the bold features of na-
ture rise, as in days of yore, unimpaired, unchangea-
ble ; grey cliffsi, like aged battlements, lower perpen-
dicularly from the water's edge to the height of seve-
ral huntired feet.* Hickory, dwarf oak, and stunt-
ed cedars, twist fantastically within their crevices,
and deepen the shadows of each glen into which they
occasionally recede ; huge masses of disjointed rocks
are scattered at intervals below ; here the sand has
collected sufficiently to afford space for the wood-
man's hut, but the narrow waterfall, which in summer
turns his saw-mill, is now a mighty icicle glittering to
the morning sun ; here and there a scarcely percepti-
ble track conducts to the rude wharf, from which the
weather-worn lugger receives her load of timber for
the consumption of the city. A low white monu-
ment near one of these narrow strands marks the spot
on which the good and gallant Hamilton offered the
sacrifice of his life to those prejudices, which noble
minds have so seldom dared to despise. He cross-
ed from the State of New York to evade the laws of
his country, and bow to those of false shame and mis-
taken honour. His less fortunate adversary still sur-
vives in New York, as obscure and unnoticed as he
was once conspicuous.

Evening began to close in as we approached the
highlands : The banks on either side towered up
more boldly, and a wild tract of mountain scenery
rose beyond them : The river, which had been gra*

* The whole ofthii ridge cloiely reiemblen UnderclitTin thf;
Iile of Wight.

'H.

STEAM BOAT.

dually widening, now expanded into a capacious lake,
to which the eye could distinguish no outlets ; flights
of wild fowl were skimming over its stnooth surface
to their evening shelter, and the las«t light of day rest-
ed faintly on a few white farm houses, glimmering at
intervals from the darkening thickets : Verplank's
Point shuts the northern extremity of this first basin :
The River continues its course within a clifT-bound
chaimel, until, after a few miles, it again opens out
amid the frowning precipices of West Point : Here
are the same features of scenery as at Verplank's
Point, but loftier mountains skirt the lake ; and clifTs
of more gigantic stature almost impend above the
gliding sail.^ The moon was riding in a cloudless
sky, and as her silver colouring fell on the grey cliffs
of the left banks, the mountains on the other side
projected their deepened shadows, with encreased
solemnity, on the unruffled waters.

This was the land of romance to the early settlers :
Indian tradition had named the Highlands the prison
within which Manetho confined the spirits rebellious
to his power, until the mighty Hudson, rolling through
the stupendous defiles of West Point, burst asunder
their prison house ; but they long lingered near the
place of their captivity, and as the blasts howled
through the valleys, echo repeated their groans to
the startled ear of the solitary hunter, who watched
by his pine-tree fire for the approach of morning.
The lights, which occasionally twinkled from the se-
questered bay, or wooded promontory, sufficiently
told that these fancies, like the Indians, who had in-
vented or transmitted them, must by this time have
given way to the unpoetick realities of civilised life.

Masses of floating ice, which had, at intervals
through the evening, spilt upon the bow of our ark,
became so frequent immediately on our passing West

♦ Ttie average of these lieights is probably about 800 feet ;
the highest is reckoned at 1100.

STEAM BOAT.

Point, as to oblige us to come to anchor for the night ;
a pretty sure prognostick that there was nearly an
end to our feather-bed travelling. The next morn-
ing we found ourselves lying close to the flourishing
little settlement of Newburgh, on the right bank of
the river : Our captain having concluded to termi-
nate his voyage here, moved over to Fishkill, on the
opposite shore, to give us means of accommodating
ourselves with conveyances, in the best way we
could.

[ 20 ]

CHAPTER IV.

NEW YORK TO ALBANY.

March 10th.

Verplank'8 Point,

44 miles.

West- Point,

Newburgii, i
Fishkill, S

Iltb.

Poughkeepsie,
Riiinebeck,

12th.

Clermont,

Kinderhook,

Scbodach, Van Valtenburgs,

13th.

Albany,

160 Milei.

We were conveyed to Poii^hkeepsie in a kind oF
covered cart : Tbe West-Point bills lay in a long
ridge behind us, stre(cl>ing east and west. Tbe
country through which we passed, though compa<
ratively low, undulated in the same direction.
About three miles from Fishkill a wild torrent rush-
ed over its bed of broken rocks, across (he road :
The romantick bridge flung over its brawling course,
the mill on its craggy banks, and (he deep wood-
en glen, down which it hastens to the Hudson,
deserve a place in every traveller's journal. Pough-
keepsie was (he first country (own, or ra(her village,
I had seen ; and as (he fea(ures of all are much alike,
it shall be described for a specimen. Houses of wood,
roofed wi(h shingles, neatly pain(ed, with generally
from four to six sash windows on each floor, two sto-
ries high, and ajbroad veranda, resting on neat wood-
en pillars, along the whole of the front : such is tbe

NEW, TORK TO ALBANY.

common style of house-building through the whole
State : It unites to cleanly neatness a degree of ele-
gance, confined in England to the cottage ornee ; but
here common to all houses ; very few sink to a meaner
fashion: this seems strange to the eye accustomed to
a hundred wretched hovels for one habitation of grace-
ful comfort ; but poverty has not yet wandered beyond
the limits of great towns in America; in the country
every man is a land owner, and has competence with-
in his grasp ; " O fortunatos niminm sua si bona
norint.** The wiiole of this beautiful passage may
be well applied to American farmers : To them the
earth is " most just,*' for they are industrious and
enterprising, and they have not yet discovered the
necessity of yielding 10 parts of their earnings to
their Government, to lake care of the remaining
20th. At Poughkeepsie, as in almost all American
towns, are two or three large inns, in which dinner
is provided at a certain hour, for all travellers en
masse I nor is it an easy matter any where to pro-
cure a separate meal ; indeed privacy, either in
eating, sleeping, conversation, or government, seems
quite unknown and unknowable to the Americans, to
whom it appears, whether political or domestick, a
most unnatural as well as unreasonable desire, which
only Englishmen are plagued with.

There is no want of churches, either here or in
any other village of this state, but they are all built
of the same perishable materials : Mr. Jefferson, in
his "Nolea on Virfiinia," objects to this method of
building, which adds nothing to the riches of the
state ; but as long as wood continues plentiful and
labour dear, houses will be built in the readiest and
cheapest manner. The same fashion was once
general in our own country : Knickerbocker, in his
humorous way, thus describes this passion of the
Yankee settler for building large wooden houses.
" Improvement is his darling passion, and having
thus improved his lands, the next care is to provide

f^l

I I

I .'

NEW YORK TO ALBANY.

mansion worthy <he residence of a landholder. A
hiise palace of pineboarda immediately springs up
in the midst of the wilderness, large enough for a
parish church, and furnished with windows of all
dimensions, but so rickety and flimsy withal, that
every blast gives it a fit of the ague,. By the time
the outside of this mighty air castle is completed,
either the funds or the zeal of our adventurer are
exhausted, so that he barely manages to half finish
one rooln within, where the whole family burrow to-
gether, while the rest of the house is devoted to the
curin;; of pumpkins, or storing of carrots and pota-
toes, and is decorated with fanciful festoons of wilt-
ed peaches and dried apples. The outside, re-
maining unpainted, grows venerably black with time :
The family warilrobe is laid under contribution for
old hats, petticoats, and breeches, to stuff into the
broken windows. The humble log hut, which whil-
ome nestled this improving family snugly within its
narrow but comfortable walls, stands hard by in ig-
nominious contrast, degraded into a cowhouse or
pig-stye ; and the whole scene reminds one forcibly
of a fable, which, I am surprised has never been
recorded, of an aspiring snail, who quitted his hum-
ble habitation, which he filled with great respecta-
bility, to crawl into the em|;ty shell of a lobster,
where he would no doubt, have resided in great style
and splendour, the envy and hate of all the pains-
taking snails of his neighbourhood, had he not acci«
dentally perished with cold in one corner of his stu-
pendous mansion."

About a mile from Poughkeepsie we were sur-
prised to meet a very handsome covered sociable,
drawn by four excellent horses, sent, we were told
for the accommodation of the gentleman I was ac-
companying to Canada : almost at the same instant, a
mounted courier rode up to tell us his master had
vehicles prepared for us ; this extraordinary zeal
arose from the competition of these two proprie-

NEW YORK TO ALBANY.

tors, who hat! heartl of our coming, and probable
wants, IVoin some fellow passengers, wlio had a few
minutes starf of us; we had considerable difliculty
in adjusting their civil claims, yielding however the
palm of preference to the one who had «o actively
exhibited a specimen of his nieann : lie engaged to
convey ourselves, four s«:iv arils, and baggage, to
Albany, for 150 dollars: a charije we found i^o rea-
sonable that we made him some additional compen-
sation at the end of the journey. Let therefore
Mr. Butler's name, carriage, horses, and drivers,
descend with honour to posterity, should posterity
ever make inquiries about him, or them. AV'hat
precise proportion of this moderation was owing to
the strong spirit of opposition betwixt him and his
neighbour, may be left (o the calculating conjectures
of the worldly reader.

At Kindcrhook we foimd a militia court martial
going forward. Curiosity induced us to step for a
moment into the " Hall of Justice," where a scene
presented itself on which Hogarth would have ban-
queted : The Colonel President sat at the head of
the table ; a cocked hat, equal in size to three de-
generate Wellingtons of modern days, witli a crim-
son feather, adorned his untrimmed locks, "but red-
der than the plume so red," a nose, all gemmed and
carbuncled, flamed beneath it ; a coloured silk hand-
kerchief was tied loosely round his neck ; before
him stood a large jug of whiskey punch, and beside
it the swords of his fellow judges bundled together,
while their owners, in heterogeneous garb, hTilf-farm-
er, half-soldier, sate round the table, posing, in quaint
phrase of guessing, and mistering, the witnesses,
who, to prevent discordant evidence, were all placed
in court to hear one another's story.

We slept this night at the village of Schodach,
where the clean little inn, and obliging family of
Mr. Van Valtenburgh merit our grateful remem-
brance; the whole establishment is a pattern of

NEW YORK TO ALBANY.

Dutch neatness, with not a little of English com-
fort: It was the more agreeable to us, from our hav-
ing here first got rid of the liain of passengers, who
were turned out with ourselves from the steam boat,
and had been flooding every inn we came to ever
Bince : I found, among a smal] collection of books
belonging to Miss Van Valtenburgh, Miss Edge-
worth's " Patronage ;" indeed I went into few
American houses, without meeting with some of our
popular works. Surely it must be no inconsiderable
source of gratification to such writers as Scott and
Edgewortb, to think their productions are circulated,
" to raise the morals, and amend the hearts" of the
dwellers on the Hudson, and the borderers of Lake
Champlain.

We approached Albany through a country gently
undulating, and pretty thickly intersected with for-
ests, from which, however, their noblest timber has
been almost wholly extracted. On the right bank
of the Hudson, a bold ridge of mountains extends
from Katskill to the neigbourhood of Albany, (called
the Katskill Ridge)^'^ altogether in the direction of
the river. Dr. Mitchell found the basis of these
mountains to consist of the same freestone as that of
the Blue Ridge, of which he conceives them to be a
prolongation, and to mark the limit betwixt the re-
gion of freestone and that of granite. Nearly oppo-
site to Albany is Oreenbush, a large wooded hill,
on which are barracks, it is said, for near 10,000
men. We found a regular road to the town across
the ice, and prepared, not without some misgivings
for the future, to part from Mr. Butler's excellent
four-in-hand.

* The higliest point of this ridge has been oAtimateri at
3549 feet. Vide Volney, *' Tableau dii Cliuaat," S(c. tora. i.
p. 35.

[25 ]

CHAPTER VI.

ALBANY.

It is curious to find a considerable remnant of feudal-
ism in a young democracy of North America. This,
however, is llie case in the neighbourhood of Al-
bany. A Dutch gentleman, Mr. Van Rensselaer, still
retains the title of Patroon ; his seigniories are said to
extend over thirty miles of territory, burthened with
all the catalogue of incidents, fines, tolls, quit-rents,
reservations, proprietorships of mills, &c. &c. com-
mon to old European tenures. Many of the neighbour-
ing villages continue almost entirely Dutch, among
which, improvement, probably from the above cir-
cumstance, goes on very slowly. The town of Alba-
ny has a gay, thriving appearance, with nothing
Dutch about it but the names of some of its inhabi-
tants. What traces of primeval manners Btill linger
in their domestic economy, I am not entitled to de-
cide : the historian of New York, in the first volume
of his erudite Ri^searches, p. 1.'>7, does indeed charge
"some families in Albany^' with still keeping up an
economical expedient of their iMicestors for sweeten-
ing tea, viz. by suspending " a large lump of sugar di-
rectly over the tea-table, by a string from the ceiling, so
that it could be swung from moiilli to mouth." It is
probable, however, he found some reason to doubt
the continuance of this custom, during his lust visit to
Albany, uflfu* the publi'-ation of his work : vide an
" Account of the Author," prefixed to his history, p.
ix. One speci(nen of Dutch maruiers did indeed fall
under my own observation at Srhoilach. An old
lady, who had finished her morning drive before we

F11

1 1

20 ALBANY.

had begun ours, was saluted by our landlord's daugh>
ter with the pristine ceremony of a small stove of
warm coals, decorously introduced beneath her full-
flowing petticoats.

Albany beitis the seat of government for New
York, has a p»rliament*house, dignified with the name
of the Capitol, which, as in duty bound, stands upon
a hill, and has a lofty columned porch ; hut as the
building is but small, it looks all porch. There is a
miserable little museum here, with a group of waxen
figures, representing the execution of Louis XVI.,
brought from France : it is impossible not to give
them the praise of being natural, if a ghasty sem*
blance of life, so close as to make one start, deserve
the name. The furious attitude of the executioner,
stretching out his arms from the top of the scafTold-
steps, eager to receive his victim; the hard counte-
nance of the commiSf seated, with his watch jn his
hand, to minute down the fatal stroke ; the features
of the unfortunate king, " Pallena morfe futurA^* all

{)osness this merit in no small degree. While 1 was
ooking through the museum, three Oneida Indians,
the first I had seen, came to the keeper to borrow
some articles of Indian dress and armoury to exhibit
that evening at the theatre. They wore pretty near-
ly the European dress, excepting a kind of cloak fold-
ed over one shoulder, and a ribbon round their hats.
The spokesman of the three, a very handsome young
man, was, I was told, son to the principal chief. I
saw him on the stage in the evening, beatmg a kind of
drum, and accompanying the war-dance of his com-
panions with a low monotonous song. It seemed a
melancholy sight : the Hons of the once free masters
of the soil exhibiting themselves to the scornful mirth
of those who 4iad spoiled them of their inheritance.
To be robbed, corrupted, and degraded is the in-
variable lot of the Indian who comes in contact with
the civilization of Europe. Nobler he,

" Who forward riishen witli indi^nnnt grief,
*' Where uevor loot lias trod the falloa loaf."

».)

r27 ]

CHAPTER VII.

THE FALLS OP THE MOHAWK.

AV-HATEVER a country affords worth seeing, take
the first opportunity to see it. This simple rule
would prevent many such posthumous lamentations,
and lame " buts," as, "lam very sorry 1 omitted
goin;;, but I thought I should have returned by the
same road." " I fully intended seeing it, but the
weather was so unfavourable, that I deferred it 'til"
—when ?

•' Some period, no where to lie foimd
" In all the hoary register ni' time."

As nothing sounds so ill to one's self or others, I de>
termined to visit the falU of the Mohawk, the same
day I arrived at Albany ; though I was told we
should pass within a few yards of them on the mor-
row, which did not turn out to be the case. The
Cohoz^, or falU of the Mohawk, are little more than
half a mile from the junction of the two rivers : their
extreme breadth is about three hundred foises, which
is much more than the mean breadth of the stream,
both above and below them, being increased by the
manner in which the ledge of rocks forms an obtuse
angle, in the direction of the current. f Their height

• Le nom de Colioz me pnrnit iin mot imitatirmniiervP dfs Snuvnjri'ii, et
par un chh HJiigiilirr, je I'lii rpiioiiv^ daii« lo pnyK di' liidgt*, appli4u6 & uue
petite ciiBcad*', 4 troi!) lieue* dr &pii "— Voliiey, p. 123

f '• The bed of the falls is of fserpenline stone." — Volney,
Tableau, I. i Al. lie observes, (hat the bed oC the Mohawk
fcems to separate the region of freesloue ihiiu that of granite.

,,A. -

, i

\- ii

THE FALLS OF THE MOHAWK.

t i

1 '>

I >l

does not, perhaps, exceed 50 ket.* The banks
above them are nearly on a level with the water, but
are increased below by the depth of the fulls. In
summer, the overflow is said to be scanty, and even
at this season a cap of snow rested on the most promi-
nent clitTof the angle, from beneath which the stream
filtered in silver veins. The whole effect of these
falls, the broadest, I believe, in the Stales, excepting
Niagara, is diminished for want of the relief of a bold,
darkly-shadowed baclc>ground. The air of wintry
desolation, varied only by the soa*bre foliage of the
pine and cedar, stretching their dark masses over
beds of snow, took little from the rude force of a
gcene, the character of which is rather simply grand,
than lovely or romantick. There is a very good point
of view from a long covered bridge, which crosses
the Mohawk near its mouth, and leadn to the village
of Waterford. The distance, from Albany is about
ten miles.

1!^

* Volney says, •• norne reckon it at 65 feet, others only 50."
The Marquis de Chastellux makes it 75. He al^^o visited it in
winter, and observes, *' The picture was rendered Ktill more
"terrible by the snow which covered the (irs, the brilliancy
"of which gave a black colour to the water, gliding gently
" along, and a yellow tinge to that which was waihmg over the
'* cataract."

t/)

Sr..^

....-:.., „.l,., J

f •

[29]

CHAPTER VIII.

ALBANY TO THE FRONTIER OF CANADA.

March 14th. Troy,

6 milei.

Lansinghurg,

Schatecoke,

Pittstown,

raiiihridge,

Portir's Inn,

Robert's Inn,

I5th. Salem,

Hfbron,

Hopkin's Inn,

Granvilli',

16th. Whitehall, or i
SkeeiiiSoiough, J

14 Stage W

ghorFlium, t
Larenhurg'd Inn, S

17th. Chimney Point,

Basin Harbour,

JM'NiePs Inn,

Burlington,

Plattsburg,

Chazy,

Inn,

Iile aus Noix,

12 Slelghi.

211

T^ROT is a little short of a mile in length, and hears
every mark of growing opulence. There is a large
barrow-fonnrd mount, at the end of the town, on the
road side, which, though evidently a natural rock,
might represent the tomb of llus to this new Ilium,
were Yankey imaginations disposed to run classically
riot. The road runs pleasantly on the banks of the
Hudson, which here form a long stiipe of flat giound,
evidently an alluvion, about a mile in breadth, beyond
which the hiili again rise, intersecting the country in

\'\

II I III 11 mill

ALBANY TO THK

f {

a N. W. direction. Betwixt Pittstown and Cam-
bridge we crossed the Hoosick river, and continued
our way through a wild and mountainous country,
whose remoter heights were now fading in evening
mists. From Pitlstown we had quilted (he course
of the Hudson, and moving in a N. E. direction,
were falling in with the various chams of hills which
spring la'erally from the great N. E. chain of the
West Point mo.intains. Salem is beautifully embo-
somed amid these ramification:^, which seem to divide
the low country into a nuuiber of separate basins,
each watered by its own sequestered stream. Mas-
ses of slaty rock are every where scattered through
the roM-itry. Lind, we were informed, was worth
about 20/. per acre ; a considerable sum, where it is
so plentiful. The Americans, who are never defi-
cient when improvement is in view, have introduced
the use of gypsum, as the most transportable, as well
as the most profitable, manure. A farmer here, with
whom, as is usual in the States, we tell into conver-
sation, informed us that the average quantity employ-
ed was three pecks per acre, united with the seed:
that it was of great service to clover ; and well em-
ployed on all sandy or gravelly soils, adding a curious
remark, if correct, that it produces no efiect on land
within thirty miles of the sea.**

Granville is situated in one of these mountain ba-
sins, and is but a few miles from the toot of the Green
and Bald mountains, which form the continuation of
the great chain. The streams in (his neighbourhood
no longer fall into the Hud!<on, but make a northerly
course to Lake Cham plain. At Granville we quit-
ted the main north road, to go to Whitehall, and take
the benefit of sleighs across the lake. 1 observed a

* Tfiis remark I tiave lieard confirmed by well informed per-
sons in the States. The rtiost common theory of the use of
gypsdtn seems to he its disposition to attract moisture, thus
remodyiug the defects of dry warm soils.

■•^^f^ti^iU)/^ '.

FRONTIER OF CANADA.

Cam-

itinued

>unlrj,

-J

veiling

course

.,,';

ectioni

which

of the

embo-

■J

divide

basins,

Maa-

through

worth

re it is

■i*

er defi-

■■'.*

•oduced

as well

re, with

conver-

employ-

e seed:
(veil em-

curious

on land

tain ba-

B Green

■I.

lation of

aurhood

Ktherly

ve quit-

"it

ind take

lerved a

ined per-

le use of

ure, thus

quantity of red clay-slate in this neighbourhood, re-
sembling the cliffs of the St. Lawrence near Quebec.
The aspect of the country remained much the same,
only growing more wild and wintry as we proceeded.
The snow which had hitherto been partial, now be-
gan to impede the progress of our waggon, which had
been moving at the rate of three and a half miles per
hour. We were frequently obliged to aliiiht, and
walk down steep hills, thickly encrusletl with ice and
inow. A fine bear had preceded us, as we discover-
ed by his large round fool prints, but he was not
complaisant enough to show himself from some, crag-
gy knoll, and welcome us to his solitude. A smalt
ground squirrel was the only specimen of bird or
beast we encountered. The valley closes in as you
approach Whitehall, until its lofty barriers barely
leave space suUicienI for the site of the village, and
the course of a small river, called Wood-creek, which
rushes into the lake, with a small cascade ; its right
bank rises perpendicularly several hundred feet: strata
of dark grey lime-stone, disposed at regular parallels,
exhibit an appearance of masonry so perfect as to
require a second glance to convince one a wall is not
built up from the bed of the stream. The heights
on the opposite side of the valley are equally bold,
and marked with the same character; their summits
are every where darkened with forests of oak, pine,
and cedar ; large detached masses of granite are scat-
tered generally through the valley, and among the
housesof the village, which like several others on our
road, very much resembled a large timber-) ard, from
the quantity of wood cutting up and scattered about for
purposes of building : indeed it is impossible to travel
through the Slates without taking part with the unfor-
tunate trees, who, unable like their persecuted fel-
lows of the soil, the Indians, to make good a retreat,
are exposed to every form and species of tlcslriidion
Yankee convenience or dexterity can invent ; felling,
burning, rooting up, tearing down, lopping, and chop

'f's

ALBANT TO THS

.} I

ping, are all employed with most unrelenting severity.
We passed through jnany forests whose leafless
trunks, blackened with fire, rose above the underwood,
like lonely columns, while their flat-wreathed roots
lay scattered about, not unlike the capitals of Egyp-
tian architecture. I believe some traveller has ob-
served that there are no large trees in America, an
observation not very wide of the truth, to judge from
what may be seen from the high road ; a few steps
however into any of the woods, shew that they have
abounded in very fine timber, numerous remains of
which are every where left standing; but the ex-
treme prodigality with which the finest timber trees
have been employed, being often piled together to
make fences, and so left to rot, has begun to pro-
duce a comparative scarcity, especially near large
towns, which has considerably increased the value of
the property of woodland.

At Whitehall we embarked in sleighs on Lake
Champlain ; the afternoon was bright and mild, and
well disposed us to enjoy the pleasing change from
our snailpaced waggon to the smooth rapidity of a
sleigh, gliding at the rate of nine miles an hour. The
first object our driver was happy to point out to us,
was several of our own flotilla, anchored near the
town, sad " trophies of the fight." The head of the
lake called " the Narrows," does not exceed the
breadth of a small river ; the sides rise in lofty cliffs,
whose grey strata sometimes assume the regular di-
rection of the mason's level, sometimes form an an-
gle more or less acute with the horizon, and some-
times, particularly in projecting points, seem almost
vertical to it. Our driver pointed out a curious fis-
sure in the left bank, called the " devil's pulpit ;"
it is in about the centre of the ens', and seems broken

with great regularity, much in this figure \ /.

Tyconderoga point stands out in an attitude of
defiance to those who ascend the lake, but its martial
terrors are now extinguished, or marked only by the

FRONTIERS OF CANADA.

■A

severity,
leafless
derwood,
ed roots
t( Egyp-
• has ob-
erica, an
dge from
few steps
ley have
emains of
L the ex-
iber trees
rether to
1 to pro-
ear large
} value of

on Lake

nild, and

nge from

idity of a

ur. The

tut to us,

near the

ad of the

ceed the

►fty cliffs,

gular di-

rra an an-

nd some-

:m almost

rious fis-

pulplt ;'*

IS broken

\7-

crumbling remains of field works, and the ruin of an
old fortilied barrack. Lake Geui,:^e unites with Lake
Champlain, at the foot of this mountain point, by a
narrow stream, on the right bank of which, rises
Mount Defiance, and on I lie opposite side of Lake
Champlain, Mount Independence ; names which be-
speak their military fame in days of old, but now,
like letired country gentlemen, they are content to
raise oak and pine woods, instead of frowning batte-
ries. At Shoreham, nearly opposite to Crown Point,
we found good accommodation lor the night, at Mr.
Larenburg's tavern, and set oil the next morning be-
fore breakfast ; but we had soon cause to repent of
thus committing ourselves fasling to the mercy of the
elements. The lake now began to widen, and the
shores to sink in the same propoi lion ; the keen blasts
of the north, sweeping o\er its frozen expanse,
pierced us with needles of iie ; the thermometer was
22'* below zero ; buffalo hides, bear skins, caps,
shawls and handkerchiefs were vainly employed
against a degree of cold so much beyond our habits.
Our guide, alone of the party, his chin and eye-lashes
gemmed and powdered with the drifting snow, boldly
set his face and his horses in the teeth of the storm. '
Sometimes a crack in the ice would compel us to
wait, while he went forward to explore it with his
axe, (without which, the American sleigh-drivers sel-
dom travel,) when, having ascertained its breadth,
and the foo'hold on either side, he woidd drive his
horses at speed, and clear the fissure, with its snow
ridge, at a tiying leap ; a sensation we found agreea-
ble enough, but not so agreeable as a good inn and
dinner at Burlington. Burlington is a beautiful lit-
tle town, rising from the edge of the lake ; the prin-
cipal buildings are disposed in a neat square ; on a
hill above the (own stands the college, a plain brick
building, the greater part of which is unoccupied,
and seemingly unfinished. ' ^

^■Y^

"»*-'<i.i

ALBANY -TO THE

I- 4

• .« ■

We crossed the next morning to Piattsbiirgb, curi-
ous to view the theatre of our misfortunes ; it is a
flourishing little town, situated principally on the left
bank of the Saranac, a little river, which, falling into
the lake, makes, with an adjacent island, and Cum-
berland Point, a convenient bay, across which the
American flotilla lay anchored, to receive our attack ;
the untoward issue of which, decided the retreat of
Sir George Prevost's army. We were particular in
our inquiries into the position of the flotilla, that we
might ascertain whether, as has been asserted, they
were within cannon range from the shore ; this we
found at no time to have been the case, so that no
movement on our part by land, could have influenced
the event of the naval action. The fortifications are
on the right bank of the Saranac ; the American com-
mandant obligingly conducted us through them ; they
consist of two square forts palisadoed, but with neith-
er out-works, nor covered way. This oflScer inform-
ed us, that they had not even their gates hung when
our army first arrived before them. Our retreat
surprised them as much as it did many of our own

fieople ; it must however be observed, that though
ittle or no doubt existed, that the works, if attacked,
would have been carried, the object of the expedition
fell to the ground with the loss of the flotilla, by
means of which alone, the transport of stores and
provisions could have been secured. U je fight
must have been for honour only, and Sir George Pre-
Tost certainly took the boldest part, when he declin-
ed it.

" Travelling, after all," says Madame de Stael,
** is but a melancholy pleasure ;" an observation doub-
ly true, if applied to travelling over an uniform surface
of ice, in very cold weather. Curiosity freezes un-
der such circumstances, and the only prospect which
rouses attention is the inn, or village, which is to af-
ford the comforts of food and fire. I observed, how-
ever, that the shores of the lake gradually sunk down

. «v...

•«ky

FRONTIERS OF CANADA.

•gh, curi-
s ; it ia a
n the left
liing into
nd Cum-
hich the
r attack ;
retreat of
ticiilar in
, that we
ed, they

this we
) that no
ifluenced
itions are
can com-
;m ; they
itb neith-
r inform-
ing when
r retreat
our own
t though
ittacked,
pedition
tilla, by
lores and
je fight
rge Pre-

declin-

Stael,
on doub-
1 surface
Bzes un-
t which
is to af-
id, bow-
nk down

to the level of the water, while the mountain ridges
fell off to the right and left, leaving a broad and near-
ly level expanse of wood and water. Traces of cul-
tivalion diminished as we approached the frontier; a
few solitary houses, commonly the resort of smug-
glers, were scattered on the shore, embosomed in
forests of a most uninviting aspect. Betwixt Cham-
plain and Isle anx Noix, travellers take leave of
America, and enter on the Canadian territory. A
few words then on the American character, ere I and
they part.

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

It is a bold enterprize, to describe the habits, man*
ners, and dispositions of a nation, after a fifteen days'
journey through it ; but here I am encouraged by the
example of all my travelling contemporaries of both
hemispheres, whose courage in this respect, has gain-
ed them the proverbial reputation of a race of men,
who are never dastardly enough to shrink from the
task, on account of mere want of information, but who
are always ready to depicture both the exteriour and
interiour of the inhabitants they happen to catch a
glimpse of, through the windows of their travelling
carriage, with as much accuracy,

" As thougli tliey tiad stood by
" And seen thein made."

A great help in these cases is the labour of our pre-
decessors, by whose means their followers are ena-
bled to transmit a lie, unpolluted, to posterity. Now
as there can be little doubt that such benevolent aid,
has been ever intended rather for the poor than the
rich, [ shall begin by begging the helping hand of
my friend Knickerbocker, over an explanation of the
term Yankie, generally applied to the New England

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

I I

I' I

•I

ers, both by us and themselves. The first settlers
of New Enf^land were Iho Pnrifans, and other secta-
ries, who, persecuted and buffeled at home, " embark-
ed for the wilderness of America, where they might
enjoy unmolested the inestimable luxury of talking.
No sooner did they land upon this loquacious soil,
than as if they had caught the disease from the cli-
mate, they all lifted np their voices at once, and for
the space of one whole year did keep up such a joy-
ful clamour, that we are told, they frightened every
bird and beast out of the neighbourhood, and so com-
pletely dumb-founded certain fish, which abound on
their coast, that they have been called ' dumb-fish*
ever since. The simple aborigines of the land for a
while contemplated these strange folk in utter asto-
nishment, but iliscoveriog that they wielded harmless,
though noiay weapons, and were a lively, ingenious,
good-humoured race of men, they became very friend-
ly and sociable, and gave them the name of Yankies,
which, *in the Mais-Tcbsuaeg (or Massachusett) lan-
guage signifies * silent men ;* a waggish appellation
since shortened into the familiar epithet of Yankies,
which they retain unto the present day." — I. p. 178.
Nor have they retained a barren epithet, but are still
eminent for the facility with which they engage in
conversation. One table for meals is stage-coach fare
even in England : one bed-room, containing a dozen
beds, may be tolerated in a cc;witry new to the luxu-
ries of travelling ; but the spirit of sociability is a lit-
tle excessive, when, as I have been told, it enjoins
the traveller to halve his bed with whoever arrives
too late to procure one for himself. I had often oc-
casion to observe, the Americans have no idea of a
private chit-chat betwixt two persons. I have seve-
ral times fancied myself engaged (6te-a-<Ste, when on
raising my eyes, I have found a little circle formed
round us, fully prepared with reply, rejoinder, or
observation, as opportunity might occur : let me,
however, add without any intention of rudeness : im-

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

seltlers

er secta-

embark-

y might

-■

ia'ik'mg.

oils soil,

the cli-

■-'.■

and for

■■".1

:h a joy-

>d every

so com-

ound on

imb-fish'

md for a

ter asto-

larmless,

igenioiis,

y friend-

Yankies,

sett) lan-

pellation

Yankies,

p. irs.

are still

igage in

ach fare

a dozen

he luxii-

i^-

is a lit-

enjoins

Sv*

arrives

ften oc-

ea of a

e seve-

^hen on

formed

Jider, or

(let me,

Iss : im-

pertinence I never met with, though they have some-
times ralher a sluitling plainness in their manncc of
conveying their sentiments. Or. onr arr:\ai af Pongh-
keepsie, a plain man sleppfd t'loin the croud lound
the inn-door, and aiidiessing liiinselfto the CLeoileiuan
I was acoinpanyinir, 'who had been appointed to Jhe
adiuinistialion of Lo ver CanaJa,) wishe<l him jctv of
his arrival, rongratii.afed him on the peu:e bc)\» -en
the two nations, and concluded by hoping he would
not follow the example of his prodocessor ; a kind
of schooling, to which I believe their own ruleis are
no strangers. In fact, the art of govtinm^tnt, that
tremendous state engine, is no mystery here ; both
men and measures are canvassed with equal freedom;
and, sitting aside the bias of party feeling, witii a de-
gree of good sense and infortriation, most probably
unique in the mass of any nation on earth. The late
war was spoken of ivilh equal detestation by all par-
ties ; and so far did they seem from assjuning; any
credit for engaging in it, that each party most studi-
ously shifted tiie odium to the other. I could per-
ceive none of that rancour against the English, which
some Englisilnnan seem so anxious to discover.* In-
div.dually J met with all civilWy from all parties ; I
observe, indeed, among some'of the shop-keepers of
New York, an indifference towards their customers,
more resembling the listlessness of the Portuguese,
than the polite alacrity of a London tradesman ; but I
have no reason to think we came in for a greater share
of it from being Englishmen : the want of compelition
produces the same effect, both on the tradesman and
inn-keeper, to whom it gives an air of independence,
very commonly attributed to much profounder causes.

* Is is a curious circumstanre that, white we accuse them of
t^vouriiig the French, French writers invariatdy attack tlwim
lor their rooted, and. as they deem it, biind partiality to the
English. Vide Volney, Beaujour, &c.

* e

I- *K .

CHARACTER OP THE AMERICANS.

I "■' I

The inn-keepers of America, are, in most villa-
gefl, what we vulgarly call, " topping men," field
officers of militia, with good farais attached to their
taverns, so that thej are apt to think, what, peihaps
in a newly settled country, is not very wide of the
truth, that travellers rather receive, than confer a
favour by"being accommodated at their houses. They
always gave us plentifid fare, particularly at break-
fast, where veal-cutlets, sweetmeats, cheese, ej^gg,
and ham, were most liberally set before us. Dinner
is little more than a repetition of breakfast, with
spirits instead lof colTee. I never heard wine called
for ; the common drink is a small cyder ; rum,
whiskey, and brandy, are placed on the table, und
the use of them left to the discretion of the compa-
ny, who seem rarely to abuse the privilege. Tea is
a meal of the same solid construction with breakfast,
answering also for supper. The daughters of the
host officiate at tea and breakfast, and generally
wait at dinner. Their behaviour is reserved in the
extreme, but it enables them to serve as domes-
licks, without losing their rank of equality with those
on whom they attend. To judge from the books I
frequently found lying about, they are well educat-
ed ; (he landlord of an inn at Waterford was very
particular in inquiring of a gentleman who was with
me, for the most accomplished schoolmistress of
New York, with whom to place his daughter; the
same man, after shrewdly commenting on the con-
duct of some of (he first political characters of the
country, summed up his eulozium on his favourite,
by saying, "I make no objection to his lying and
intrigues, for all politicians will do the same." I
cannot pretend to say how far this is practically
true in America, but I have reason to think the sen-
timent at. least too general. The spirit of specula-
tion, in all professions of life, seems to go far to-
wards weakening (he finer feelings of political ho-
nour and integrity. The indolent habits of (he

■V

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

ii^paniard are thought to be favourable to the fidelity
and honour observable in all his transactions ; the
commercial aclivity of the Chinese degenerates into
knavish trickery. It is for <he Americans to con-
sider, (o which extreme they are verging, and to re-
member above all, that the vital spirit of republi-
canism is virtue — but this is going deeper than I
have any pretension to do at present ; 1 have seen
but a little portion of the ;nere surface.

An English traveller is frequently surprised to
find the highest magistrates and officers of the na-
tion travelling by tlie same conveyances, sitting
down at the same table, and joining in conversation
with the meanest of the people ; borrowing from his
own prejudices of rank, he is apt to fancy all the
great world amusing themselves in masquerade. I
entered, casually, into conversation, on board the
steam-boat, with a man whose appearance seemed to
denote something betwixt the shop-keeper and farm-
er, though his conversation marked him superior to
both. He was the high sheriff of a county. I re-
member, among other observations, his remarks on
the unhappy condition of the greater part of emi-
grants into America, particularly the poorer Irish,
who are induced by Haltering representations to
strain every effort (o procure a passage to New
York, or some sea-port town, where they are left in
total ignorance, both of the country most fit to set-
tle in, iind of the means of getting to it, until their
little Hto« k is ti'lier wasted by delay, or plundered
by sharpers, and ihemselvea reduced to beggary, or
the lowest drudgery of society.* It is very rare to
find a native American begging, or indeed to find any
condition resembling beggary throughout the Stales,
except in the sea-port towns, in which these neglect-
ed wanderers are collected.

* I have hetnl Amrriraiis romplain, (liat almost all tlirir
orimcs and ajiscipim-anoiirs arr oommitttd by persons of tliin
(inscription.

i p

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

,1 \

I i

To enlii^hlened iridiisfry, this virgin continent of-
fei'.s 'iiKiiuiinishi^d resources ; nor where success is
in p;'os|)ect will the American turn his foot aside,
however rni;;2;ed the path to it ; wilh hi3 axe on his
shotihler, his tumily and stock in a light waggon, he
plnniies into ("oresfs, which have never heard the
woodinan's stroke, clears a space sufficient for his
dwellin.,, and first year's consumption, and gradusdiy
c«)nver(s the lonely wilderness into a flourishing farm.
This ahnost national genius has been ably delineated
by Talleyrand, Volney, and otiier writers, whose
observations all concur on this point of the Ameri-
can character. A hutnorous, but failhfid account of
the American vis m'rj^ratoria^ is given by Knicker-
bocker, !. c. vii. " The most prominent of these
hatiifs is a certain rambling propensity, with which,
like Iho sons of Ishmael, they seem to have been
gifted by heaven, and which continually goads them
on, to siiift I heir residence from place to place,
ao that a Vankee farmer is in a constant stale of
mi::;rali!)n ; Carrying occasionally here and there,
clcuing lands for other people to enjoy, building
houses for others to inhabit, and in a manner, may
be coMHid'ired the wandering Arab of America. His
first thought on coming to the years of manhood, is
to settle himself in the world, which means nothing
more or less, than to begin his ra.nbles ; to this
emly he takes unto himself for a wife, some dashing
country heiress, that is to say, a buxom rosy-
cheeked wench, passing rich in red ribbands, glass
beads, ami mock torfoise-sheli combs, with a white
gown and Morocco shoes, for Sunday, and deeply
skilled in the mystery of making apple sweetmeats,
lont!-sauce, and pumpkin pie. Having thus pro-
vided himself, like a true pedlar, with a heavy
knapsack, wherewith to regale his shoidders through
the joiu'ney of life, he literally sets out on the pere-
grination. His whole family, household furniture
and farming utensils are hoisted into a covered cart ;

CHARACTER OF THE AMERICANS.

inent of-
iccess is
i\ aside,
e on his
iggon, he
card the
t for his
Tfailujdly
ing fann.
lelinealed
s, whose
e Ameri-
coount of
Knicker-
of these
ih which,
ave been
ndi them
to place,
t stale of
ud there,
L building
iner, may
ica. His
in hood, is
nothing
to this
dasliing
n ro»y-
idt), glass
I a white
d deeply
cetrneats,
[thus pro-
a heavy
through
the pe re-
furniture
red cart ;

his own and his wife's wardrobe parked up in a
(irkiii ; which done, he shouhlets his axe, takes
staff in hand, whistles ' Yankee doodle,' and triKJges
oflT Jo the woods, as contidHnl of llie protection of
Providence, an«l relying a** the* rfidly upon his own
resources, as did ever a patriaich of yore, w lien lie
journeyed into a strange country of the Genti es.
Having buried himself in the wiidecneKs, lie builds
hiiMself a log-liul, clears awa) n corn-field aiut pota-
toe patch; and Providence siniling ujioii liis labours,
is Aoou surrounded by a »nui>: I'arin, and s«)ine half-a-
score of flaxen bended urchins, who by tlieir size,
seen) to have spuing all at once out of the earth,
like a cio(» of load-stools.

'1^

in-

riie pile of civilized life widens daily, and pla
ly inliiu.ttes to the indignant and retiring liidiiin,
that it will finally know no limit but the Pacilick.
Cultivators Ii.i\e begun to discover the superiority
oflnesoil, westward of the Alleghany Ri<lges : the
tide o*" emigration is accortliiigly turned to the neiah-
bourlioo.l of the Ohio. Sixteen thousand waji^nns,
I was loM, were counted last year passinsi the loll
briljf of Cayuga. S»)t(lrmen»s are creeping along
the Missouri, and tlie moiiih of the Columb

la i!) a

ready designated to connect the Asmlick with the
European commerce of the Stales. Such is the
giMMh, and such the projects of this fransatlanlick
re{ iiblick, great in extent of ♦iMriiory, in an active
and well-irdormed population ; nut ..hove all, in a free
government, which not only leaves individual talent
unfettered, liul calU ii in<o life by all the inciie-
meula of ambition luoat grateful to the hutuan luind.

!■ 1

[ 42 ]

CHAPTER IX.

• CANADA.

Mirch IStli,

Isle aux Noix.

SSt .John's

12 tnilei.

■V^

Ln Tiairic

Montreal

Albany to Montreal

250

Tlie direct road is reckoned at

171

22d.

Bertliicr,
Rivnii dii Loup.

23il.

'liois Ui<viere8
Jit Viuic,

24tl)

Cap S.iiiie,
St. AugiistiDe,

25th.

Quebec,

00 sleigbi

. ■•

180

New York to Albany,

lOB

Albany to Montreal,

250

500 niiie».

Total expense for three persons, four servants, and one
waggon load of ha^^gagc, ini-ludiug six days' living at Nevf
York, 7.W do liars =!««<. 16s.

Pn oTniNo could be more Siberian than Ibe aspect of
the CaiitUiiaii frontier : a narrow roail, choaked with
snow, UmI lhroii!;h a wood, in which, patchrn were
occasionally cleared, on either Hide, to admit (he con*
Btriiclion of a lew log-hulH, round which a brood of
ragged children, a nlarvt'd pig, and a few hnlf-broken
ruHlick iinplemenlH, fortiied an accoinpaninienl more
suited to an Irish landscape than to the thriving
Bccnes wc hati just ijuitlcd. The Canadian peasant
ii still the B^me iinaopbisticatcd animal whom we may

..-# —••

CA1?ADA.

ts, and one

iiig at New

giippose to have been imported by Jacques Carlier.
Tlie sharp, unchangeable lineaments of the French
countenance, set off with a blue or red night-cap,
over which is drawn the hood of a grey capote, fash-
ioned like a monk's cowl, a red worsted girdle, hair
tied in a greasy leathern queue, brown mocassins of
undressed hide, and a short pipe in his moiilh, give
undeniable testimony of the presence of Jean Bnp-
tiste. His horse seems to have been eqiuilly solici-
tous to shame neither his progenitors nor his owner,
by any mixture with a foreign race, but exhibits the
same relationship to the horses, as his rider to the
subjects of Louis XIII. Now, too, the frequent
cross by (he road side, thick-studded with all the im-
plements of crucitixional torture, begins to indicate
^ calholick country : distorted virgins and ghastly
saints decorate each inn room, while the light spires
of (he parish chiirch, covered with plates of tin, glit-
ter across the snowy plain.

At La Prairie we crossed the ice to Montreal,
whose isolated mountain forms a couspiiMjous object
at the distance of some leagues. From llience to
Quebec the road follows the course of the St. Law-
rence, whose banks present a succession of villages,
many of them dolightfuily situated; but all form and
feature were ahsorbeil in the sn«)wy deluge, which
now (lecpened every league ; aibl to which, the sleigh
track, by frequently running on the lied of the river,
placed us below pros|M'cl of every kind. We found
the inns neat, and the |)(!0|)le atlentivt; ; French poli-
tesse heiian to be contracted with American blunt-
ness. It is curious to observe that this characteris-
(ick o^ ilie Americans, wliic h so frecpiently olfends
the polished feelings of Fjiii;lish travellers, is exactly
what was formerly objiicled by (he French (o our-
selves. The " rudesse" of (he Fiiiglisli charac(er
was long a stan«ling jest with our relined rieiiihbours ;
but we have now, it seems, solar shaken oH'this odi-
ous remnant of un»ourtly habits, as to regard it with
true French horrour in our Iransatlantick cousins.

CAKADA.

t . .I

^1 .fi

( I

It was Siintlaj when we arrived at St. Anne's ;
mass was jiiiit finished, and above an hundred sleighs
were rapidly dispersing themselres up llie neighbour-
ins; heights, and across Ihe be<l ot llie river, to the
adj:icenl villages. The common country sleigh is a
chitnsy, box-shaped machine, raised ai both ends ;
perhaps not greatly unlike the old heroick car. It
holds two persons, with the driver, who stands before
theai. One horse is commonly sufficient, but two
are used in posting, when the leader is attached by
coids, l.mden>-wise, and left to u>e his own discretion,
without ihe restrdini ot rein, or impulse of whip.
Stionid, however, the laitersllmnlns become intlispen-
sable, the driver jumps from the sleigh, runs forwaid,
applies h"** pack-thread lash, and regains his seat
wiitiodt any hazurd from extraordinary increase of im-
pel us. The runners of these sleighs are fornied of
two slips of wooii, so low that the shafts collect the
snow into a succession of wavy hillocks, properly
chrisfeued " c;diols," for they almost dislocate your
limbs five thousiuul tiu)es in a day's journey. An at-
tempt wa« once mside to correct this evil, by piohi-
bitina; all low nrmiers, as tliey are ctdled, from cona-
ing wiiliin a ceiiam jjiwiance of Quebec ; meaning,
therel»^, to for«e Ihe country people into the use of
high runners, in the Americar> lashiou. Jean Baptiste,
however, sturdily anti effectually resisted this he-
retical innovation, by hailing with his proiluce with-
out the limits, and thus compellinj:^ ihe towns-people
(o cotne lo him to make theii purchases. The mar-
kets l)oth of Montreal and Quebec » xhibil several
hundred market sleighs dally. They ditffr from ihe
pleasure, 01 trtvellinj: sh-iu,!), in having no si«les ; that
is, tliey consist mt^rely of a plank bottom, with a kind
of railing. 11 ay and wonl seem ihe staple commo-
dities at this season, both of which are immoderately
dear, especially at Quebec ; even ('trough the Siales,
the common charge lor one horse's hay for a nicht,
was a dollar. Provisions are brought to market fro-

':^

CANADA.

len, in which stale (hey are preserved during winter;
cod fish is brought IVoin Boston, a land carriage of
500 miles, and then sells at a reasonable rale, the
American cominonly speculating on a cargo of smug-
gled goods back, to make up his profit ; a kind of
trade extremel}' brisk betwixt the frontier and Mon-
treal.

As we approached Quebec, snow lay to the depth
of six feel ; from the heights of Abram, the eye rest-
ed upon what seemed an immense lake of milk ; all
smaller irregularities of ground, fences, boumiaries,
and copse woods, had disappeared ; the tops of \ il-
lages and scattered farm houses, with here and there
dark lines of pine-wood, and occasionally the mast of
some ice-locked schooner, marking the bed of the
Ciiailes rive.", were tiie only objects peering above
it. A range of mountains, sweeping round from
West to North, unlil it meets the Si. Lawrence,
bounds the horizon ; no herald of Spring had yet
approached this dreary oulpost of civilization ; we
had ohsL: ved a few blue thrushes in the neightiour-
hood of Albany, but none had yet reached Canada ;
fwo only of the feathered tribe brave the winter of
this inclement region ; the cosmopolite crow, and the
snow bird,* a small white bird, reported to teed upon
snow, because it is not very clear what else it can
find.

It would be acting unfairly to Quebec, to describe
it as ( found it on my arrival, cho;iked with ice and
snow, whij.h one day flooded the siroels with a profu-
sion of dirty kennels, and llu^ next, cased them with
a sheet of glass. Clolh or carpet bonis; galashes,
with spikes to their heels, iron poiiiied walking-sticks,
are the defensive weapons perpi'fMally in eitipl»)v on
thrse occasions. The direction of the sirrets loo,
which are most of ihem built up a preci[)ire, trieally
facilitates any inclination one may enterlain for tum-
bling, or neck-breaking.

>'^

"l <v,l

* Einlioriza hyraialis.

[ 46 3

CHAPTER X.

■u

THE FALLS OP MONTMORENCL

The falls of Montmorenci are formed by a little
river uf Ihal riiiine, near its junction with the St.
Liiwrence, at)oiil five miles north of Ctnebec. They
have a peculiar interest in winter, from the immense
cone of ice, formed at their foot, which was unim-
paired when I visited them, in the second week of
April. After winding up a short but steep ascent,
the road crosses a wooden bridge, beneath which the
Montmorenci rushes betwixt its dark grey rocks, and
precipitates itself in a broken torrent down a wooded
glen on the right ; it is not until you have wound
round the edge of this glen, which i^ tlone by quit-
ting the road at the bridge-foot, that you obtain a
view of the falls ; nor was their effect lessenetl by
this approach ; a partial thaw, su( ceeiled by a frost,
had spreail a siUery brightness over the waste of
snow. Every twi<»; anti braiMJi of the surrounding
pine-trees, every waving siirnb .uhI briar was encased
in chrystal, and glittering:; to the sun beams, like the
diamond forest of eome northern rlf-l 'rid. You are
now on the edge of a pjccipice, to which the fall it-
self, a perpendicular of '2'2i) leet, se«Mii*i diminutive? ;
it is not until you descend and approach its foot,
that the whole majestv of the scene becomes appa-
rent ; the breadth of the torrent is about fifty feet.
The waters, from their prodiijious descent, seem
snowy-white with foam, antI enveloped in a light dra-
pery of gauzy mist. The cone appears about 100
ieet in height ; matheuialically regular in shape, with

THE FALLS OF MORTMORBNCI.

its .base extending nearly all across the stream : its
sides are not so steep but that ladies have ascended
to the lop of it ; the interiour is hollow. I regret to
add, (hat a mill is ccnstriicling on this river, which
will, by diverting the stream, destroy this imperial
sport of nature ; or at least reduce it to the degrada-
tion of isnhtnilling lo be played olf at the miller's dis-
cretion, like a Versailles fountain.

'» 11

A A

[ 43 3

CHAPTER XI.

QUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

,• 1

P!i5 \

Towards Ihe end of April, Ihe town's people begin,
according to a law of the Province, to break up ihe
ice and snow from before their doors ; and by the first
week in May, the streets are*toleral)ly cleared. The
intermediate state, as may be supposed, is a perfect
chaos, through which the stumbling pedestrian, like
the arch-fiend of old,

•• pursues his way,
" And swims, or sinks, or wades, or creeps."

Meanwhile the landscape begins to exchange its
snowy mantle for a russet brown. A few wild fowl
and woodcocks, with some small birds, cautiously
make their appearance ; the sheltered bottoms of Ihe
pine woods throw aut the earliest flowers; the St
Lawrence and Charles rivers become gradually (lis
burthened of ice, and enlivened by the gliding sail
still, however, the foot of Spring seems lingering
the mists, exhaled by the warmth of i^ie sun, frequent
\y encounter the keen north-west, and are again pre
cipitated in heavy snow-showers ; snow still blocks
up the roads, and fills the dells and ditches, sheltered
from the influence of the sun ; thus preserving the
gloomy aspect of winter, through the month of 31ay.
The town, or rather city, of Quebec, is built on
the northern extremity of a narrow strip of high land,
which follows the course of the St. Lawrence for se-
veral miles, to its confluence with (he Charles. The
basis of this height is a dark alale-iock, of which most

■ '

fin

qUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

ople begin,
eak up the
by the first
red. The
IS a perfect
istrian, like

ivay,
ps."

;change its
w wild fowl
cautiously
toms of the
the St.
dually dis-
iding !!iail ;
lingering ;
, frequent-
again pre-
lill blocks
, sheltered
serving the
Ih of May.
is built on
high land,
ence for se-
lirles. The
which most

of the buildings in the town are constructed. Cape
Diamond tertninates llie proinontory, with a bold pre-
cipice towards (he Sf. Lawrence, to which, it is near-
ly perpendicular, at the height of 320 feet. It de-
rives its name from the clirysfals of quartz found in
it, which ate so abuiulanl, that after a shower the
ground glitters with thern. The lower town is built
round the foot of these heights, without the fortifica-
tions, which, with the upper town, occupy their
crest, in bleak pre-eminence ; the former, snug and
dirty, is the abode of thrivin<f commerce, and of most
of the lower classes employed about the navy. The
latter, cold and lofty, is the seat of Government, and
principal residence of the military ; and claims, in
consequence, that kind of superiority which some
beads have been said to assert over the inglorious
belly : to speak the truth, neither has much to boast
on the score, either of beauty, or convenience.

Among the principal buildings, (he Government
house, or Castle of St. Louis, may take precedence,
being a thin blue building, which seems quivering,
like a theatrical side scene, on the verge of the pre-
cipice, towards the St. Lawrence : its front resembles
that of a respectable gentleman's house in England:
the interior contains comfortable family apartments.
For occasions of publick festivity there is another
building on the opposite side of the court-yard, much
resembling" a decayed gaol. The furniture is inherit-
ed, and paid for, by each successive governour.
The grant! entrance to the Chateau is flanked on one
side by this grim mouldering pile, and on the other
by the stables, with their appropriate dung-hills.
There is a small garden on the bank of the river,
commanding, as does the Chateau itself, an interesting
view of the opposite shores of the St. Lawrence.
These rise boldly precipitous, clothed with pine and
cedar groves, and studded with white villages, and
detached farms ; beyond which the eye reposes on
successive chains of wooded mountains, fading blue

' ^ i

qUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

, ^^*!''

in the distant horizon ; meanwhile, the river below is
spreadin^^ broadly towards the north, until it meets
and divides round the Isle of Orleans.

In front of the Chateau is an open space of ground,
with great capabilities of being converted into a
handsome square ; but at this season, a formidable
barrier of bog-land, intersected with rivulets of snow-
water, is all that it presents to the bewildered pedes-
trian, who endeavours vainly to steer for the castle
gate. On one side of it stands the Protestant cathe-
dral church, an unfinished building, much more than
large enough for the congregation usually assembled
in it. In style and arrangement it resembles a Lon-
don parochial church, and has nothing about it re-
proachable with earthly beauty. There is a good
organ, but mute for want of an organist ; and as there
is no choir, the heavy flatness of the service amply
secures the English church from all danger of being
crowded with the overflowings of its neighbour, the
Catholick cathedral, in which are still displayed, with
no inconsiderable degree of splendour, the enticing
ceremonies of the Romish worship. I was present at
the service on Easter Sunday : a train of not less
than fifty stoled priests and choristers surrounded the
tapered altar : the bishop/ofiiciated in plenis pontiji-
calibuSf nor lacked the mitre <' precious and auro-
phrygiate," while the pealing organ, incense rolling
from silver censers, and kneeling crowds, thronging
the triple aisles, presented a spectacle, on which (evf
are rigid enough, either in belief or unbelief, to look
with absolute indifference. A lofty pile of ginger-
bread cakes, ornamented with tinsel, was carried to
the bishop to receive his bletising, and a sprinkling of
holy water, after which they were distributed among
the people, who received them with most devout ea-
gerness. These cakes I understood to be the pious
offering of some devotee, more rich than wise, who
certainly adopted a somewhat ludicrous expedient

dURBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

below is
I it uteets

(f ground,
;d into a
biinidable
3 of snow-
ed pedes-
the castle
ant catlie-
moie tban
assembled
les a Lon-
bout it re-
is a good
id as there
vice amply
er of being
;hboiir, the
layed, with
he enticing
s present at
of not less
onnded the
\nis pontifi-
and auro-
lense rolling
, thronging
which few
ief, to look
of ginger-
carried to
Iprinkling of
ited among
devout ea-
e the pious
wise, who
expedient

" To bribe the rage of ill-requited Heaven,"

with gingerbread.

In Ca.holick countries there are few publick build-
ings, either for use or ornament, but are in some way
coi.'iected with religion, and most frequently with
charity. There are several charitable Calholick in-
stiliilions in Quebec : the principal of these is the
" riorel Dieu," founded in 1637, by the Duchess
D'Aii!;uillon, (sister to Cardinal Richelieu,) for the
pool si«'k. The establishaient consists of a superiour
and thirty-six nuns. The " General Hospital" is a
similar institution, consisting of a superiour and forty-
three nuns, founded by St. Vallier, bishop of Que-
bec, in 1693, for "Poor Sick and Mendicants." It
stands about a mile from the town, in a pleaiiant mea-
dow watered by the Charles. The style of building
is simple, and well suited to the purposes of the es-
tablishment, consistinsi oidy of " such plain roofs as
piety could raise." The present superiour is a lady
of Irish extraction, her age apparently bordering on
thirty. In this conventual seclusion, (devoted to
what might well seem to the mind of a delicate fe-
male, the most disgusting duties of humanity,) she
exhibits that easy elegance, and softened cheerfulness
of manner, so often affected, and rarely attained by
the many votaries, who dress their looks and carriage
in " the glass of fashion." She conducted us, with
the greatest politeness, through every part of the
building, which, as well as the " Hotel Uieu," in
poini of orh^r, neatness, and arrangetnent, seems sin-
gularly adapk'.i to the comfort and recovery of the
unfortunate beings, to whose reception they are con-
secrated. Their funds 1 understood to be small, and
managed with strict economy. They receive a small
sum annually from Government"^ in addition to the
revenue arising from their domain-lands. There is

"^ In coQsideration of which, soldiers are received as pa^^tc.

(

.^'fl

• r-'si — 1*^ «*>!^»" » ..v^- : . •«• -*i

f •■!

. '• \' •

i ■>'

ib!1

52 (lUCBEC AND ITS NLIGHBOURHOOD. .

no distinction in the admission of Catholick or Pro-
testant : kbe hand of charity has spread a couch for
each in his infiraiities. Both houses have a small
pharmacopoeia in charge of a sister instructed in me-
dicine. The several duties of tending the sick by
night, cooking, &c. are distributed by rotation. Em-
ployment is thus equally secured to all, and the first
evil of cankering thought elFectually prevented. Good
humour and contented cheerfulness seem to be no
strangers to these *♦ veiled votaries ; seem ! nay,
perhaps are ; for without ascribing any miraculous ef-
fect to the devotion of a cloister, it is no unreasona-
ble supposition, that in an eslahlishinent of this kind,
the duties and occupations of which |)revent seclu-
sior. from stagnating into apathy, or. thought from
fretting itself into peevishness, a greater degree of
tranquillity, (and this is happiness,) may possibly be
obtained, than commonly tails to the lot of those who
drudge through the ordinary callings, or weary them-
selves with the common enjoy ments of society. Grave
men have doubted whether the purj)ose8 of these in-
stitutions might not be better answered by our com-
mon hospital establishments, and have even indulged
themselves in a sneer, at the idea of young men being
attended in sickness by nuns ! On the question ge-
nerally, it may be observed, that few (who have any
knowledge of the system of common hospitals) can be
at a loss \o appreciate the ditfercnce betwixt the ten-
der solicitude with which charity smooths, for con-
science sake, the bed of siilForing, and the heartless,
grudging altendance which ho-^pital nurses intiict upon
(heir victims, if the action of the mind produce a
sensible etTeot on the frame, particularly in sickness,
this is no i'ntnateriai circurnslanre, in a medical point
of view. Kven when the hour of human aid is past,
it is, perhaps, still so nelhing, that the last earthly ob-
ject should be a face of sympathy, ami the last dutiei
of humanity be paid with a semblance of atfection.
For those who dedicate themselves to this ministry,

(tUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

k or Pro-
couch for
e a small
led in me-
e sick by
ion. Em-
d the first
pd. Good
to be no
em ! nay,
icidons ef-
mreatjona-
this kind,
ent seclii-
uglit from
degree of
osHibly be
those who
»ary them-
ly. Grave
f these in-
r our corn-
indulged
men being
irstioii ge-
have any
s) can be
the ten-
for con-
leartlesa,
lict upon
)roduce a
Hirkness,
ical point
id is past,
nrthly ob-
ast dutiei
affection,
ministry,

some apology may be urged to such as admit motive
as, at least an exteniialing circumstance in the consi-
deration of erroiir. The moral crilicks, perhaps,
who are foremost to coiidetiin their practice as super-
stitious, revolt less tVom the supposition, than from
the self-sacrifite it requires. Let the lash of satire
fall mercilesly on mere bitiols, wherever they are
found ; but against the spirit, which, abjuriug the
pleasures, devotes itself to the moyt painful duties of
lite, what argument can be direcled, which may not
be left for its refutation to the prayers and l)lessings
of the poor? The most objeclionabic part of the in-
stitution seems to be the cornmilling of insane per-
sons, of both sexes, to the charge ot females : the an-
swer is, that there is no other asylum for them; the
blame therefore attaches to the police of the coun-
try ; for it is evident, that womtri aie very inadctpiate
to the charge of such patients us require coercive
treatment, particularly ujen."^'

The Ursuline Cunvcnl, founded by Madame de
la Pellrie, in 1(539, for the education of female chil-
dren, stands within the city. It has, both in its inte-
rior decoration, and the dress of its inhabitants, a
greater appearance of wealth than the " General

Hospital," and "Hotel J)

UMI.

Among the orna-

ments of the chapel, we were particularly directed (o
the skull and bones of a missionary who had been
murdered by the savages, for at\etnpting their con-
version : it is perhitps doubtful, consideilng the gene-
ral inditrerence of the Indians on matters of religious
controversy, whether this was the real and sole of-
ftiM (' bv which he won the crown of niartyrdotn.
These nuns have generally about 'JOO little girls un-
der their care, but I was sorry to ol)Herve their edu-
cation bought with their health ; not one of them but
ha<l a pallid sickly appearance, arising probably from

* We saw one patient, who would never sutler himself to be
eloatheil.

•*i**^k^f

(QUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

much cotiiliieinent, during a lung witiler, in an atmos-
piiore highly healed wifh stoves, joined to the salt,
un.vhctlesoine diet, generally u»«ed by tiie Canadians.
I ought not to oaiil, tor the honour of these ladies'
c.'jai'ity, thai they keep a town bull.

The seminary is a collegiate institution, for the
gratuitous inslruction of the Catholic youth of Can*
ada. The uiiniier of scholars is couKUonly about 200.
Tiie expenses of professors, teaching, ice. are de-
frayed by the revenue arising from the Seignioral do-
mains, belonging to tlie eslal>lishment. Th«! course
of studies here rjuaiifiijs for ordination. There is a
sm ill lUiiseu n, or ''cabinet de physique," which
soe us in a growing condition; it contains, besides
nalurd cario-)ities, electrical apparatus, telescopes
and other iustrumenls of science. The library is
so newhiit too theological ; there is a S'uall hell at-
taclie I to it, in which f perceived our common Pray-
er \i toics, Testaments, &c. in company with many
diviu'^s, as well Catholic as Protestant, Bayle, and a
few travellers and philosophers, but the greater part
theologians. Tne ohl palace, besides tho chambers
for the council, and House of Assembly, contains a
good publick library ; the nature of the collection, may
be defmed generally, as the reverse of that of the
seminary library. There is a good assortment of his-
torical works, of a standard quality, and of travels ;
but no classicks, proi)ably because none of the inhabi-
tants atPect to read tluun. A library is also on the
eve of being established, by the ofHcers of the staff
and garrison; but the society of Ciucbcc is generally
on too limited a scale, and too exclusively military
or CO n>nercial, to foster any considerable spirit of
literature or science. An attetnpt was made during
Sir fl. Prevost's administration, to establish a society
on the plan of the lloyal Institution, but it fell to the
ground, for want of a stifBciency of eflioient members,
eleven being the supposed necessary quantum to be-
gin with ; nor is this seeming scarcity surprising,

..^1^ ■ t ^.^^^^-^

3D,

QOFBEC AND ITS NEICHBOURIIOOU.

1 an atmos-
to the suit,
Cuiiatiiaiis.
lese ladies'

in, for the
(h of Can-
about 200.
c. are de-
ignioral do-
^lit! course
rhere h a
le," which
19, besides
telescopes
library is
dl hell at-
iinon Pray-
with many
yle, and a
reater part
chambers
contains a
!Ction, may
^at of the
lent of his-
>f travels ;
the inliabi-
Imo on the
f the staff
9 generally
y military
; spirit of
(Ic during
I society
fnll to the
members,
urn to be-
urprising,

when we consider, lliat the short Canadian summer
is appro[)riated lo business, ami that duiiii^; the te-
dious winter, I he men are never tired of dinners, nor
the Indies of diuri'inj;.

Tlieie are some peculiar mid inlerestinj; features in
the neii^libourhood of Quebec. The lofty lianks of the
St. Lawrence, tVom Cape Diaujond to C.ipe lJon5i;e,arc
coMH)0'<ed of clay-slale, fienei;dly ol a daik colour,
someliiiios of a dull red, whence the name of " Cap
RouLie." The bed ol the river is of the same crum-
bling!; slone ; and bei.ig triturated by time and the
eleaients, i^ives its sands a cluse resemblance, both
in colour ami consistency, to smith's liliugs. Bare
however, as they are of soil, these perpendicular
cidfsi are every where cloathcd with a luxuriant ver-
d(ne of slind)s and trees, whose roots, wreathing
Iheuiselvfs romid barren rocks, seem to woo fiom
the charily of the heavens, (lie nutrinient denied
them by a nigs^ard parent.

About two miles above Quebec, a break in the
masi^nificent line of c I ills forms the lillle recess, called
Wolfe's Cov • a jleen.nalh-way leads upllie iui-xlils

to the plai,

!p.pr
\bram : traces of field-woiks are

still visible .j " (urf, and the sloue is pouiied out
on whicli the nero expired. The cove is al |):« sent
appropriated lo the reception of lumber, whirh comes
down the river from the States and I'pper Fiovim e,
in rafts, which frequently co\er the surface of h.df
an acre ; when the wind is favourable, they sfuead
10 or 12 s(piare sails, at other limes llu-y nir jiolcd

down

le men, who navmalc

icm,

build

Sli'ill

wootlen houses on them, and thus, Iraiisporird niih
their families, poultry, and iVcipienlly cat lie, fiom a
complete Hoating village. A v'lcat piopoitinu of the
timber is brought from lake Cliamplaiu, and ihe trade
is almost wholly in the hantls of tlu- Americans.

A setomi crescent-like recess, about a mile from
Wolfe's Cove, conceals Ihe little village of Sillori.
Nothiii-^ can be more romantic than the sec! ision of
this charming spot. The river road to it turns round

i^VEBKC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

! ' t'

the foot of gigantic clifFs, which seem interposed be-
ttvixt it anil the world's turmoil. The heights which
encircle it are deeply wooded to their summits, and
retire sutficienlly from the river to leave a pleasant
meadow and hop-ground round the village, consisting
of about half-a-dozen neat white houses, one of which
is an inn. On the river's edire stands the ruin of an
old religious house, built by French missionaries, for
the purpose of preaching to the Huron tribes, who'
then inhabited this neighbourhood. There is now
no trace of these missionaries, or of their labours,
-xcej)t in the little village of Lorelfo, which contains
the only surviving relicks of the once powerful Huron
nation*' : so efficacioisly have disease and gunpow-
der seconded the converting zeal of Europeans.
Besides flie road which winds under the clilTs, Sil-
lori has two leading to Quebec through the woods.
These woods cover the greater part of the country,
betwixt the St. Foi road, and the river, offering all
the luxury of shade and sylvan lovelincs to the few
disposed to accept it. I say, the few, for the fash-
ionables of Quebec commonly prefer fnaking a kind
of Rotten Row of the Plains of Abram, round which
they parade with the periodical uniformity of blind
horses in a mill.

Lake Charles is generally talked oT as one of the
pleasantest spot* round Quebec, and instances have
been known of parties of pleasure reaching it. It is
about three miles in length; and perhaps ono at its
greatest breadth. Towaids the midille of it, two
rocky points shoot out so as to form, properly speak-
ing, two lakes, connected by a narrow channel. A
scattered hamlet, taking its name from the lake, is
geer with its meadows and tufted orchards along the
right bank of the outward basin. Wooded heights
rise on the opposite shore, and surround the whole
of the interior lake, descending every where to the
water's »"lgo, the whole forming a scene of lovely
loneliness, scarcely intruded on by the canoe of th^

■K

*■%

* Alioiit I'ortv heads of families.

QUEBEC AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

silent angler. There is more in (he whole landscape
to feel, than to talk about, so that it is little wonder-
ful that an excursion to Lake Charles should be more
frequently talked about, than made.

The Huron village of Loretto stands on the left
bank of the Charles about four miles below the Lake,
(eii^ht from Quehec.) The river, immediately on
passing the bridge, below (he village, rushes down
its broken bed of granite, with a descent of about
seven(y feet, and buries itself in (he windings of (he
deeply-shatlowed glen below. A part of the fall is
diverted (o turn a mill, which seems fearfully suspen-
ded above the foaming torrent. The village covers
a plot of ground very much in the manner of an En-
glish barracli, and altogether the reverse of (he strag-
gling Canadian melhod ; it is, in fact, the method
of their ances(ors. I found (he children amusing
themselves wi(h li((le bows and arrows. The houses
bad generally an air of poverty and slovenliness :
tha(, however, of their principal chief, whom I visit-
ed, was neat and comfortable. One of their old men
gave me a long account of the manner in which the
Jesuits had contrived to trick (hem ou( of (heir seig-
nioral righ(s, and possession of (he gran( of land made
thern by the king of France, which consisted, origin-
ally, of four leagues, by one in bread(h, from Sillori,
nor(h. Two leagues of (his, which were taken from
then by (he riench government, upon promise of
an equiva! it, (hey give up, he said, as los( ; but as
the property oi ilii; Jesuits is a( presen( in the hands
of commissioners iijtpointed by our Governmen(,
they were in hopes of recovering (he remainder,
which it never could be proved (hat (heir ances(ors
ei(her gave, sold, lou(, or in any way alienated.
Aldiough (he oldest among (hem re(uin« no remem-
brance of the wandering lif(; of their ancestors, it la
Rtill the life (hey ».ove( ; "for," said a young ITuron,
" on s^emntie dans h village, it on nt s'ennuie
jamais daus Irs hois.**

' il

* Mh

[ 58 ]

CHAPTER XII.

QUEBEC TO K AMOUR ASK A.

July 16th. St. Thomas
17th. Riviere Ouelle
18th. Kamouraska

36 Miles.

90 Miles

.. >

TO ftUEBEC BY THE NORTH SHORE.

21 9t. Malbay

22d. St Paul's Bay
24th. La Peti'e Riviere
25th. St. Joaliioi
Quebec

20 Ferry.

le Water

18 do.

TfO

90
200

Opposite to Quebec is Point Levi, a command-
ing eminence on the right bank of St. Lawrence,
whose breadth here is little above a mile. A party
of Michmac Indians were encamped on the shore.
They were the tirst Indians 1 had seen, in any
thing like their original condition of life, and are al-
most the only ones to be seen about Quebec. Their
encampment consisted of four tents, raised with pine
poles, and covered with the bark of the white birch)
which is used generally for this purpose, and for
canoes, by all the tribes of the continent. Two
women were gumming their canoe at the water's
edge ; three or four little half-naked " bronzed varl-

pr-^

^nBBEC TO KAMODRASKA.

ets" were dabbling in the tide, who, on my coming
up, began to articulate " bow d'ye do," in Michraac
English. A man in one of the tents was making
small canoes for children's toys, and the rest were in
that state of indolence, most accordant to their dis-
positions, when their circumstances will permit it.
In dress and personal appearance they were too like
gypsies to require more particular description, ex-
cept that their cheek-bones, high, and set wide apart,
rendered them the ugliest looking mortals 1 had
ever seen. The Michmacs originally dwelt and
hunted betwixt the shores of Nova S otia and the
St. Lawrence. Like all Indians t.iclosed within
the pale of civilization, they are wasting fast from
the effects of spirituous liquors, bad living, and in-
dolent habits ; deprived of the resource of the chase
by the progress of agriculture, they wander on the
^ shores of the St. Lawrence, fish, beg, or steal, and

^ live as they can, that is, ill enough.

« St. Michel is remarkable for the neatest inn in the

I country ; 1 dined there, and slept at the house of

f Mr. Couillard, a Canadian gentleman. His house,

} which he had lately erected, was a substantial stone

building, furnished in the plainest manner, much per-
haps, as were those of our country gentlemen a
century ago ; that is, much wainscot, no papering,
little or no mahogany, plain delf ware, a rustic estab-
lishment, with two or three little girls to wait, in-
stead of a footman, and as many large dogs for por-
ters. In the morning, Mr. Couillard accompanied
me to the mouth of the South River, which falls
over a ledge of rocks into the St. Lawrence, below
bis house, where the early fisherman was jus^ visiting
his nets, stretched below the fall. We returned
through the village, which is one of the neatest in
the province ; the houses are placed in the Dutch
fashion, with the gable end to the road. The num-
ber of inhabitants in the whole parish is reckoned at
1500, who have among them 1000 children ; a good

' «J

H ■ tl

HUEBEC TO KAMOUttASKA.

proof, as Mr. Couillard seemed justly to think, of
their populative difiposiiion. On entering <he church,
we found (he priest drilling a considerable number
of them, previous to their receiving the sacrament,
and bestowing a box on the ear, whenever it seemed
necessary, to accustom the head to its proper posi-
tion. There is an English sch^')! in the village.*

The tract of country betwixt Quebec and St.
Thomas, is generally a flat, of variable breadth, lying
betwixt the river and a chain of mountains or high
lands, which follows the same direction, sometimes
approaching nearer to, and sometimes retiring from
its banks. In the neighbourhood of St. Thomas, the
breadth of cidtivated land seldom seems to exceed
two leagues : beyond is hill and forest, into which
no Canadian has yet ventured to penetrate for the
purpose of settlement. Indeed, the most prominent
trait in the character of this people, is an attachment
to whatever is established. Far different in this
respect from the American, the Canadian will sub-
mit to any privation, rather than quit the spot his
forefathers tilled, or remove from the sound of hrs
parish bells.

The next evening brought me to the village of
Quelle, situated on the right bank of a river so call-
ed. I had a letter to the Seigneur, Mr. Casgrin,
whom I found near the ferry, busied among his
workmen, in the superintendance of a new bridge,
to supply the place of the ferry. He received me
very politely, and having conducted me to a neat
house, facing the stream, invited me to his family
supper, which in Canada, as well as in the States,
is formed by a combination of the tea equipage, with
the constituent parts of a more substantial meal.
He introduced me to his architect, whose appearance
well answered Mr. Casgrin's description of " rusti'

•S

'" By an Act 41 Geo. 3. an English scliool is established in
each of the pruicipal villages of the Lower Province.

HUEBEC TO KAMODRASKA.

al)iished in

CHS, itbnnrmis, sapiens.^* The whole of his work-
men, 45 in nutiiber, were, according (o (he ciisiom
of fbe country, hoarded and lodged in Jiis house ;
and 1 mnat do them the justice to sa v , \5 quiet<3r
people never lodjied beneath a roof. Eaily hours
being the order of Ihe day, we retired to rest at
nine o'clock ; after an early breakfast, a relation of
my host took ine in his caleche, to visit a porpoise
fishing in the neighbourhood; the dri\e was about
four miles, the last two of them through a pine
wood, preserved roiin<l the (isheiy, that tlie noise of
agricultural occupations may not frighten the game
from the shore. The fishery lies betwixt the moidh
of the Oiielle, and a ridge of rocks jutting into the
St. Lawrence, about a mile below it — from (he ex-
Iremify of this ridge, an enclosure of stakes runs a
considerable way obliquely across the stream, and
by crossing the retreat of the poi poises, as the tide
falls, conducts them into shallow water, where they
are harpooned ; I saw one on (he beach, which had
been taken (hat morning; he was a small one, mea-
suring but 10 feet in length, much more like a fat
white hog, than a (ish ; the aperture of the ear is
covered by the skin, and by no means indicates the
acnteness of hearing ascribed to (his animal by (he
fishermen ; the largest are 18 feet in length, and are
computed (o yield two hogsheads of oil each, the
quality of which makes i( in high request among the
natives, even for culinary purposes. 1 was (old,
that as many as 300 were sometimes taken in a
morning; the Seigneur is entitled (o -yV'h, and Mr.
Casgrin received ^th, besides, as pan owner. On
the ledge of rocks was placed a small wooden cross,
on which, every spring, (he Cure is summoned (o
bestow his benediction, without which, no success is
to be expected (hrough the season. As the fishery
is at present rather on the decline, it is probable the
porpoises have hit upon some counter-charm. The
inhabitants point out as a great curiosity, a succea-

' il

HOEBEC TO KAMOURA8KA.

) i

'I ,1

sion of marks or fractures on these rocks, which,
from their shape, they call the Rackets, or Snow
Shoes, to which, they certainly bear considerable
resemblance, both in shape, size, and position, being
placed much at the distance a man would step. My
host, probably no great geologist, conjectured they
were really the impression of shoes, made while the
rock was soft ; and this explanation perfectly satis-
fies the whole neighbourhood. Perhaps many im-
portant systems are built on analogies, not much
closer.

For some miles before reaching Kamouraska, a
striking difference becomes visible in the appearance
of the country. The basis of the soil had hitherto
consisted of the same clay-slate, generally red, which
constitutes the bed and banks of the Si. Lawrence
about Quebec, interspersed with frequent detached
blocks and masses of granite, apparently springing
through it. Here, however, granite begins to quit
its secondary rank, and gradually seems to become
the general substratum of the soil :* instead of scat-
tered masses, lofty ridges and mounds of considera-
ble size make their appearance. At St. Roch, the
road runs for nearly a mile beneath a perpendicular
ledge of it, probably 300 feet in height. Towards
Kamouraska, it rises into a succession of sharp coni-
cal hills, resembling a line of lofty pyramids, ranged
at angles to the course of the river. The most
singular mass of this kind, I had an opportunity of
observing closely, is about two miles below Kamour-
aska; its circumference is about a league at the
base ; the height may be betwixt 4 and 500 feet ;
its sides rise in many places as smoothly perpendicu-
lar as if cut down by an axe, scarcely yielding a
fissure, in which the stunted cedar can take root.
A flat meadow divides this immense rock from an-

(

* The valley of the river Oaelie produces liraeslone, but of
an inferiour quality. .^ .

Il j*i!i'

«IUEBCC TO KAMOURABKA.

other, seemingly of nearly equal dimensions, and
towering up no less boldly. The small space which
divides them, (not a quarter of a mile,) and the
perfect congruity of their shape, irresistibly impress
on the mind, the idea of their having once formed a
single mountain.

Kamouraska is pleasantly situated on the St.
Lawrence, and is a village of some resort during
summer, for sea-bathing ; the salt-water first evident-
ly commencing in this neighbourhood. The parish
is of some extent, as may be conjectured from the
value of the cure, estimated at 1000/. per annum;
that is, when all dues are fully paid, which was not
the case with the last cure, recently deceased, who,
" good easy man," was not only content to receive
what his parishoners chose to give him, generally
about one-third of his right, but gave away half of
the little remainder, living in a crazy tenement, on
apostolic diet, and amusing himself by walking on
the beach, to ask and hear the news. Opposite
Kamouraska is a cluster of small islands, or rather
wooded rocks, round which there are considerable
fisheries of salmon, herrings, and sardines ; the first
two of which are cured and exported to the West
Indies. These fisheries ^are constructed much like
the porpoise fishery ; a considerable space of water
is enclosed with two hedges, tapering to a point, and
terminating in a small circular basin, from which the
fish are laken at low water. I spent the greater part
of a day, on one of these islands, with a Canadian
gentleman, to whom some of the fisheries belonged ;
we went round them in a cart, to take out our fish,
which we broiled, and dined d la mUitaire, tinder
our tent, on the rocks. Their stony soil, besides
pine and cedar, and a variety of shrubs, produces
the wild gooseberry, rasberry, cherry, and plum, in
great abundance. A telegraph is erected on one of
them, where the soldiers have established a thriving
potatoe garden. We returned to Kamouraska in the

*- '" .'itti »'i ii«><IH|<

• ,..-

ClUEBEC TO KAiMOURASKA.

\* \

f ;

»»

evening, cheered on our way with Ihe rude harmony
of the Canadian boat-song.

The gruund rises gradually behind Kawouraska
into a liigh rocky ridge, from whence the eye dwells
delighted on the broad St. Lawrence, studded with
woody isles, and bounded by the bold mountain
shore of the northern bank. ' The little river of
Kainouraska, descending from the eastern mountains
encounter!^ this granite ridge, and falls in a brnad
sheet over u natural wall of about thirty feet in height ;
a portion of the current is diverted from the summit
to turn a grist mill, the property of the Seigneur,
who receives one fourteenth of the quantity ground,
amounting to one thousand bushels of wheat per an-
ninn, in addition to the miller's fee. The miller
is an old Hanoverian, who served in the American
war.

The St. Lawrence is twenty-two miles broad at
Kamouraska. I was the whole of a day crossing it,
in a little boat, to Malbay, or rather to a scattered
hamlet, four miles to the north of it, the falling tide
hav^ing prevented our doubling the last rocky point.
From iience I was carted to the ferry of the little
river at the mouth of which the village stands. I
inquired, as is the custom in the untravelled parts of
Canada, for the best house, in which to find hospi-
tality for the night, and was directed to that of
Madame Nairn, the lady of the Seignory. I found
it a plain, and rather large dwelling, standing in a
meadow, on the edge of the St. Lawrence. The
lady was from home, but an old domestick assiduous-
ly welcomed me in : wine was immediately offered
me, and in a few minutes, refreshments were on the
table ; eggs, tea, and bread and butter, to which a
long fast inclined me to tlo ample justice. I after-
wards walked round the village. Its site is a small
semicircle of alluvial land lying at the foot of moun-
tains of a bolder and more romantick character than
any i had yet seen in Canada. The only aperture

•ywuiBfi' tU^'

QUEBEC TO KAMOURASKA.

in the chain afTords a passage (o the Miilbay river,
which emerges from a darkly -shaded glen, un the
north wesf of Ihe villau;e. The houses, about forty
ot hfly in number, tollow (he curve of the soil, or
banks of (he :)lreauile(, near (he mou(h of which a
neat whde church rises, in striking relief, against
the dark bold mountain, towering about half a mile
beyond it. Near the S(. Lawrence 1 observed a
number of sharp conical sand liills, or mounds, from
ten to forty fee( in height. The extreme regulari(y
of their figure s{rongly impressed me with an idea
of their artificial cuustruc(iou ; upon an En2;lish
down (hey woulti pass for barrows ; 1 even fancied
I could (race (he remains o(" a fo-s and raised pa(h-
way to soaie of them, like (he entrance (o a Roman
camp; but whether tliey itre (he graves of foii^o((en
SacUems, or (lie work of the floods of former age?,
I pretend no( (o de< iiie. i found a c«)intor(abl«
chamber prepared on my relmn, and breakfast on
ihe table in the morning. *' How do von contrive
to get through your (iioe here, my girl ?" said t,
to the rosy-cheeked damsel who kep( up kw^ s* jjply
of fresh eggs; " O, Sir, the (ime goes very quirii •,
we have plenty of empluyment." *' Well, but in
winter?" O (he winter passes still quicker than the
summer." I regre((e.l I jiad no( an opportunity cf!
paying my respects (o my kind hos(ess, m whose
family (ime was allowed (o jog quietly on, without
any extraordinary condivances for his des(ruc(ion, a
privilege so seldom gian(ed him by (he present ge-
nera(ion. There is something of (be romance of real
life in Mrs. Nairn's his(ory. She accompanied her
husband frotn ScotlamI, during (he American war,
in which he served, and was rewarded by a grant of
the Seignory of Malbi'y, a (rac( of monn(ain coun-
try, li((le prized by Canadian or English settlers, but
dearer, perhaps to him, from its likeness to hif; na-
tive Highlands. When he setlled on '( there weic
but two houses, besides (he one he built \i& lived

^..

','i'rit^ ,

QUEBEC TO KAMOURASKA.

lierc till ills death, and his widow hiis coiitiniietl' lo
reside here lor forly-five years, during which ihc
three houses have grown in<o a parish of three hun-
dred inhabitants. Two of Mrs. Nairn's daughters
are married and settled in the \illage. Her son tell
in the battle of Chrystler's Farm.

"*' dbay is the last settlement on the north bank of
of the St. Lawrence. The only habitation btyond
it, is a trading house of the Northwest Company,
who drive a pretty gainful tratiick with the Indians
of the neighb«>nrhood, taking their furs nt a shilling
earh, and selling them those commodities custom
has rendered necessaiies, at their own price ; no
pains, nor even violence bring spared, lo pre\ent
any competition likely lo diminish their profits. A
striking instance of Ihio spirit occurred last year at
Pistole. Nearly opposite lo thcli trading posl is a
Canadian (itlicry, the buslnes'* of which is.cenerally
carried on during the spring, when the fish fiequent
the south side of the river; last } ear, however,
owing lo a scarcity of salt, it was necessarily put
off until the auMimn, when the fish are fount! on the
north bank; but when the fishermen attempted to
pursue their vocation in this direction, ihey were set
upon by an armed parly of Ihe subaltern agents of
the Northwest Company, iheir oars and boat tack-
ling destroved, and Ihemselves set adrift, at the mer«
cy of the elements. Fortunately Ihey succeeded
in g.iining the shore in thi^ condition, and are since
understood lo have commenced a process against
these lawless traders, who, themselves, unchartered
monopolists, assumed Ihe possibility of these fisher-
iiten communicating with ihe Indians, as a pretext
for this unprovoked outrage.

The road from IMidbay lo St. Paul's Bay, follows
the direction of Ihe river, over a IrucI of mountain
country, occasionally crossed by »leep glens, and
covered with pine, cedar, elm, maple, birch, ««nd
wild cherry : neither oak, nor hickory, are found so

qUBBBC TO KAMOURASKA.

far north. Scattered settlements are every wliere
met Willi along the roaii, and many an acre, on which
the halt burnt pine-lrnnks arc Hiill stamling, lallier
indicates the pi unless of cnlli\ation, than adds to
the beaiily of tiie lands^cape. liaiher more than half
way belwixl Malbay and St. Paul's liay, stands the
little village of " Les Elioukuiens." 1 stopped my
caleche a I the house of the ciii?, whose rosy (h
bitn point, and good humour, oetckened him e<pially
at ease in spirituals and lempoiaU.'^ Me regaled
me with wine an<l strawberries, serveil by his sister,
tiie slaid gonvernante of his sniali menage; and if
wine and fi uir, afier a dusty journey, reiptired any
sauce, I ''iioiild have tbimd it in the pleasure my eii-
teriainer« see:iied to feel in my appeiile. He la-
Oieiilfd he iiad nolhing belter to otter me, but if I
would slay a few da}s, and make his house my
home, the besi he could procure was at my service.
The oiilv return he reipiired, or i could make, to
this ho'^pilality, was to lell tiim the news, and leave
him my na.iie, 'o add to Ihe small lisl of strangers,
who had honoured his humble domicile. Perverse
foi'hine, that planted thy social spirit on the bleak
crest of " lii's t^iioulemens !'* not one, I trust, of
thy few vi:^iianls, has f«iigollen the smile of thy ruildy
countenance, thy band and cassock, somewhat the
woise for time and snuH', thy easy chair, and bre-
viary tied up in black cloth ; or 'he neat flower
garden round thy porcli, whence, at Ihe interval of
thy evening devotiim, 1 can fancy Ihinfc eye resting
coinplacMiily on the lovely prospect it commands —
the small whit, church, gleaming in the vale below ;
beyond it a succession of lofty capes and wooded
promoniories, jutting into the broad St. Lawrence ;

* I am sorry to xay. I did not do h\% \ih\U}<io\)\ij mifflcienl.
hoimiir l>y IIh; roiijcctiin- ; I Irurncd al'lfrwanN tliat lie was
vi-ry [Htor, buiii|( very i^eun'uuv, and nu tavoiirilv willi Itic
hiibop.

QUEBEC TO KAAIOUilASKA.

: t*'.

rv f

and " fsle aux Coudres," lying, -like a ehield, on ifs
biijjht waleis.

St. Paid's Bay is a ftoiiridhin? little village, much
reseiniiling iMalliay, in site and teature. The parish
is reckoned to contain almiil '2000 inhabitants, the
greater part of them seMled along the little river,
whose mouth forms the bay, and which once proba-
bly covered the hoil on which the village is built.
From St. Paul's Bav to St. Joachim, there is a road

flanned, but, as 1 had not leisnie to wait its making,
procured a boat to take me roiUMl Cape Toruienio.
** Isle aux CouUres" lies within the bay ; it is one of
the earliest settlements in Canada, and said still to.
retain, with the simple manners, a considerable share
of the national urbanity of its first colonis'. IVly
boat's crew, lhou<j:h strong in number, were weak in
skill, nearly half of them beiniz; old men, for the hrst
time in their live^ handling an oar; an evil which be-
gan to be fell, as soon as we had to contend with the
short swell, caused by the opposition of wind and
ti«le ; ihe contest, however, was iuit ol short duration,
for after a little bungling and tossing, and some awk-
ward attempts, on the part of our yoiini! hiiiids, to
huigh away their fright, we found ourselves obliged
to make for the village of" La Petite Riviere," to

ige
pre\ent greater evil*.

After securing our boat, we woimd our vay through
a marshy meadow, towards a s(nall wooden house at
the end of the vilhue, whose appearance be^-poke it
none of the best there, but it had the merit, as my
commodore and pilot observed, of being kept by a
clean woman, and of lying handy to the boat. We

iroceeded, accordinirly, down the plashey |)ath which
ed to it, and by the help of steppinu; stones, maniru-
vred across Ihe duck-puddle round the door-way.
Th<> interior, howe>er, did not discreilil tlie**gnde
wife's" character. The white-washed walU, against
which hun<i; the skin of a sea-wolf, were clean, and
a suiall display of brown puns and many -coloured

J '■^•H.^.««M„

(iDEBEC TO KA>IOVRA8KA.

crockery, neatly <irranged, I'loiiled (he door. The
dauiu and lier daughter readily led llteir cuiding, to
set about preparing a uieul : ami a pleuiiiui disli of
oinlet, tried with bacon, aud seixed up wiUi niiiple
augai, wad !40on piaceil un uiiai in hei,u.iii and dimeii-
sious might have passed equally tor &(ool or table.
Three iioii forks, and aii many |)lallera, coinpleaied
our service; llie only iiiiite in (tie lainiiy being pro*
duced troiu our host's breeciies pocket, wiM.re M usu-
ally reposed, alter its daily dunes ot culling Hiicks,
bread tor (he taiinly consumption, and bacun. Aa
there was nolhing in this banquet to induce excess, 1
ventured, iimnetiiately alter it, to Cdiniuence a survey
oi the hamlet. It ocrupies a sliip ot land aUu>g liie
St. Lawrence, about tour miles in lenglii, anu seldom
h^dl'amile in its greatest breath. I'owarus either
en<l ot it, tlio bold ri<lge-shoies closes in, uiid iMiiowa
this distanre into little more than the breadth ot a
ro.id, and pebbly beach. This screen ot rock«>, ris-
ing preci|iiiousiy to the height ut' several Imndrcd
feel, und thus eilectuajly protecting the terriliuy of
this secluded colony troui the cliilting noitli-west
winds,* is cloa'hed to the suiiinitt with d«ep u,ioves
of pines, beeeli, and m iple ; tlie tatter ot' which adoid
annually more than sulLcieni siig.ir tin the consump-
tion ol' the inhiibitanls. Tne si vie ol their houses is
at once siitistantial and rouiMiodioiis : uulls treslily
white-washeil, and deltly •trimmed gaideiib, denote a

* Kx|MMien<T ninruins tli»> raliiiind (M)iij('cliire, that it \s. to
the severity u\' Itiis wiiid. swre|iiiiy; dver Ilie littalt n'ii,iiiiis of
fliiil^oirs liay, iiiiil |||<< LaljiMiliM' lo.itl, iliai (lie tx nine v>h\
of liitwrr Canada ik |ii'iii<'i|mll,\ atlrilMilaliie. 'I'l.t' imi tli-Me>ti<r-
ly c'lHiiwe of the si reams vvlneli lid! iiilu (lie Si. Lawn nee. on
its lift liaiilt, l»y (uteniii'f a |>assai£e to lliis wind, oliviales tlie
jfwu\ etl'itts of llie dieller atliiidrd l>y its lolly slioies. 'I'Jie
village of l.a I'etite Itivien- serins iildelilnl tor its k« iiial ell*
male to tlu' taviiiiratde (li<itin('iii.ii of Im iiiu wahnd liv a
stroaiii loo narrow and windini^ lo li avr aiiv roiisidenildr
Ineaeti in tlie liiiinlilh, l>y wliieii il is hliellered, t'or llie wind lo
paik IbruiiKh.

Q,nEBEC TO KAMOURASKA.

Mr; }

condition beyond flie mere grovellinj!; of exisfencc.
They are grouped, or irregularly scaHered along (he
road, each einbosoitied in its own (ufted orchard, at
once the weaj/h and glory of its owner. This luxnri-
ant abundance of fruit trees ia not only the most
graceful feature of the scene, but a very striking pe-
culiarity in the site and soil of this favoured spot,
which produces app!es as abundantly, and of equal
quality with those of Montreal ; plums, cherrifs, and
currants no less plentifully : even the peach dei^ins to
ripen here, though found no where besides in Cana-
da, to the west of the Niagara frontier. Fruit is
therefore the staple commodity of the villiige, and
obtains for the inhabitants, not only the corn they
have not space to raise in siitHcieni quantity for their
consumption, but the few articles they are accustom-
ed to consider the luxinies of life.

At the lower en«l of the vill»<ie, a nislirk bridge
of pme logs, crosses " La Petite Riviere." 1 sat
down on a fallen tree to ailmire this swift gurgling
Itreaudot, as it came from its green alcove,

*' Making swuet inusink willi tli' cMiamnlnd stones,"

and co"strasting its white broken current wifli the
deep, and varied verduie of tin bir«:h, pine, and ma-
ple, over-arching its rocky banks, as if to veil the
secret urn, and rep)»se of its Niiad. On my way
back, I accepted one of the miiny courteous oflfers of
the " Fathers of the Hamlet," to enter his house and
refresh myself. After taking a glass of milk, the
good man otfered me, as the greatest treat within his
m>aris, rum and tobacco; and on mv declining both,
" What," said he," you neither drink run nor smoke
tobacco ? How rich you must be !" I could not
assent to his conclusion, though it would, in general,
be just cno'igh if in the place of rum and tobacco,
one should substitue the erpiivalent luxuries of more
polish ed life. He informed me, the hamlet contain-

aUKBEC TO KAMOtRABKA.

ed thirty fires, and one hundred and thirty grown iip
persons ; or as he expressed if, " Cointnuniranls ;'*
persons receiving the sacrameni : a criterion of popu-
lation very common in Lower Canada, and very ill
suited to most other countries. All his observations
bespoke a mind cheerful and contented. He praised
the excellence of the soil, and observed, it was one of
the earliest settlements in Canada. " Their young
men," he said, *' had gone out duiinc the war, but
most of them had returned safe, for Sir George had
always spared the Cana<lians." He ofllered me his
bouRrt, if I was unprovided with a lodging, adding,
that every house in the village would be equally at
iny service, either for myself, or the persons who
came with me. I repaid his kind ofl'ers, by giving
him the best advice I could, on the disordered slate
of a watch he ha«l purchased of a knavish tradesman
in Quebec ; ami we parted, I think with somewhat
more of corilial leave-faking, than usually graces the
separation of such brief acquaintance

On retiirnins from my walk, I found my host's
family collected round a blazing hearth, though in
the month of Jidy. They could not sufliciently
wonder amonc themselves, that 1 should have walk-
ed to the cud of their village from mere curiosity ; a
restless feeling, with which the Canadian gentleman
or peasant is little troubled. An iron lamp having
been trimmed, and htmg against the wall, a copious
mess of milk porridge was serve<l up for supper ; soon
after which, the old people retired to an inner room,
to perform their evening devotions, while the younger
merid)ers of (he fiitnily knelt rouml the apartment, and
liaiit'C pr;»yed some time in silence, rehired to rest.
If prayers can enter heaven, it mui*t surely be, when
they ilhus rise, a voluntary oll'ering from the <luclling
of contented p«)verty. I was roused, at midnight, lo
moufit a bare-backed nag, which a barefooted go>soon
led by the halter, throunh laiirs au(' niendows, (ill
emerging among (he rocks, a distant light directed us

QUEBEC TO KAMODRASKA.

to our boat, which lay, as the tide was low, some way
in the stream, and we presently proceeded on our
voyage. The cold star-heain enabled us to discern
the diirk outline of Cape Turrnenlo, rising almost
pcrptMidicidarly from the water':* edge, lis heii^ht is
estinialed by the Canadians at liiOO feet ; but I should
think 800 a sufiicK'.nt cillowance. 1 landed xoon alter
dav ti.iwn, near S<. Joachim. Here is a house with
lands, beloniiing to the (^nebec seminary, fiumed out
uni(er (he in>)|ieclion ot a steward, i fancied the cut-
. tivalion of them superiour in method, and (heir crops
more abundant llun any 1 had seen. The soil is al-
toa;ctlier alluvial, lying on a level willi the river, betwixt
it and its rocky banks, us if redeemed from the water.
iM y '^.tiiile, charioteer, or carter, (lor be it knowU)
St Juachiin could furnish no costlier veliicle than
a carl,) Irixing introduced himself to my notice, with
a compliment lit the frankne<^s and honour of his own
dr.dinsis, (of which, by-lhe-bye, 1 had some little
d<)ubf,) proceeded to inloiui me of a far uu>re obvi-
ou-* per'nliiMity in his character; '■^ qu^il ainioil bean-
cotij) d jitser en clienihi." He followetl up this enun-
ciation, or rather dcnuncialion, with a succession of
interro:iatories, monolotfues, and eulogies on his steed
" Papillon," (who liad certainly nothing volatile in
his whole anatomy,) and good humouredly apologia*
ed, from time to time, for his excessive lotpiacity,
which he ascribed to an extreme thirst for inlorma*
tiou ; witluuil adding, whether for giving or receiv-
ing it. He expre:«sed much surprise at (he pains
taken, an<l bows bestowed by the parliamentary can-
didates of the province; said, he imagined it must
b« ^^ pour rinniiienr,^^ and desired to know If it was
the same in Kugland ; I replied in the affirmative,
with regard to the pains-taking and bowini;, (hough
I could not add it was altogether ** pour rhonnevr."
No less was his surprise at what he deemed my ab-
stemoioiHness, when he found I (ook no meal be-
twixt breakfast and a four o'clock dinner ; detailing.

fc^

(QUEBEC TO-KAMODRASKA.

at the same time, the four diurnal meah with which
he appeased liis own appeliie. " 1 sihuuld like much
to travel wi(h you, said he, but instead of receiving
washes, I flhould request to eat as I liked."

Fru/n St. Joachim the road runs at the fool of the
cliffs, for the «freater part of the way to IVlontuio-
renri ; iiutriberless little streams come hissing down
the furrowed rocks, and having fed the thriving or-
chards, which cluster at their base, are received in
stone tanks, round which, the bare-armed, naked-
fooled, (I am sorry I cannot say silver-footed,) «lam-
sels of the village repair, unconsciously, to imitate
the daughters of king Alcituius. At Quebec 1 part-
ed with {ny garrulous frieno, who ver) courteously
pressed me to make his house my quaiier, should
chance again lead me to St. Joachim, adding, by way
of reply to my hint of the improbability of such an
occurrence, that " though aiountuins could nut tueet^
men might.*'

»>

[74]

CHAPTER XIII.

THE FALLS OF THE CHALDIERE.

' I

I . t ' '!

' f

The Falls of the Chaudicre are about four miles
from the junction of the Chuiuiiere with (he St. Law-
rence, which takes place on its soulh shore, five miles
above Quebec. There are few who will not ac-
count an excursion hither, anion;; the interesting days
of their life. The wooded cliflfs of the St. Law-
rence, with Sillori, and New Liverpool, looking out,
on opposite siiles, froa) their romantic seclusion ; the
broad expanse of the river itself, widening out from
Cap Rouge, as the baslioned heights of Quebec
seem to close its northern outlet ; the frequent sail)
or heavy timber-rafi, "floating many a rood," pre-
pare the mind, by a succession of pleasing objects,
for the enjoyment of the scene which awaits it. Af-
ter walking from the little cove, in •vliich you land,
to the village of St. Nicholas, (about half a mile,)
you are furnished with a conveyance, carl orcaleche,
to within a mile of the Falls. The road turns from
the village lhroN!!;h the fields, and after descending
into a little pebbly streandet, passes through a deep
wood, principally of pine and maple, in the middle
of which, it ceases to be practicable for carriages ;
you continue by a foolpalli, and suddenly emerge
upon a ledge of rocks, whose disjointed masses, and
strata, uplieavrd from their primieval bed, seem,
while the rush uf waters thumiers around, to denote
the iniinediate presence of some destroying minister
of nature. Continuing over these rocks, you arrive
at a crag, projecting midway acrosn the river, and

THE FALLS OK THE CIIAUDIERE.

crested with a sinj^Ie cetlar. The Falls are now
directly befoie you; Ihe river, "240 yards in breadth,
precipitates itself above 100 perpeinliciilar feet; the
bed of the fall is a red clay-slate, residarly, and even
f^incifully penciled wiih ti)in layers of soft grey stone ;
this gavely of colonring, while it ploasini;ly relieves
the solemn grandeur of Ihe scene, lends a russet tinge
to the tiescendin;; flood, \vhi)se broken masses foam
in their descent, "like the mane of a chesnut
steed."

Part of it falls over a Icdije of rocks, at an oblique
ans^le to the main charuiel, lorming a lesser cascade,
which, but (or its mai^iitificent neighbour, would itself
be an interesting;; object. Nearly on the line of the
fails, a wall of granite, about six feet in height, and
three in thickness, springs through the strata, forming
the bed of the river, and traverses them in a straight
line, until broken through by the lesser fall, beyond
which a fragment of it appears again, seeming to in-
dicate, that it had once extended across the torrent,
and resisted its passage.

There is no other appearance of granite immedi-
ately round the falls, though immense masses of it
cumber the stream about half a mile below them, and
fortn considerable rapids ; viewed from this spot, the
falls lie in beautiful perspective, beyond the cliffs,
which project from either shore, in their front.*

The surrounding scenery is grand and quiet. The
stately woodii' have never bowed before the ravage
of improvement, nor has the stream been tortined,
and diverted from its channel, for tiie supply of grist
and saw mills. The freshness of nature is in every
sight and sound, and cold must be the heart that feels
not a momentary glow, while thus standing in the
presence of her wildest loveliness.

* Tlie corresponding; posilioii of thrsp clitrs on Iwtli sides of
llie Ktrrain, atfurdK siroii<>; n^asoii ti> think tlii>y once .''orminl
part of llin ledge of tlid Kail, wliiuli has nioco worn its wa*
backward to its present situation. 9

[76]

CHAPTER XIV.

I/- i\

■ 1 ■

i,!f,

QUEBEC TO MONTREAL.

July 28th, Bridge or Jacques Cartier,
•23tli. Three Rivers.
:iOth, Falb of Shawinnegacnnie,
August I"!. Berthier,

•id, St Ours, 1

St \nloine, ?-
St. Dt^nys, j
BeJopil,
4th, liO(i|!UPil,
Montreal,

Miles.

63 Caleche.

21 Canoe.

40 Calecbe.

1 Ferry.

16 1 2

24 Caleche,

4 Ferry,

22G 1-2

7rateller8 frequently make a small detour to
pass by (he Jacques Cartier bridge, six or seven
miles above the ferry. The river comes widely
down betwixt its wooded shores, and, after forming
several cascades, foams through a narrow channel,
which seerns chisselled out of the solid rock to receive
it, and, having passed the bridge, buries itself from
the eye of the spectator, in the deep valley below.
The rock, which constitutes its bed, is formeu into re-
gular platforms, descending by natural steps to the
edge of the torrent. The Jacques Cartier is famous for
its salmon, which are taken of a great size, and in great
abimdance below the bridge, at the foot of which
stands a little inn, where the angler may have his
game cooked for supper, and sleep in the lull of the
torrent below his chamber window. Its white-washed
parlour is adorned with stuffed birds, fishing tackle,
records of large fish caught, and such like sporting
trophies. I supoed ingloriously, but heartily, on

HCEBEC TO MONTREAL.

salmon I had not captured. After quitting ^Ihis
neighbourhood, (he scenery of the St. Lawrence
becomes flat and uniform. The high lands, which
skirt the horizon of Quebec, fail oil" towards the
north-west, leaving an expanse of level country as
far as the hill, which the primitive settlers, in admi-
ration of its solitary, and king-like emiiunce, ile-
nominated the Royal Mountain. The road follows
the liireclion of the river, sometimes running along
th*t beetling clitV, which once cn)bankeil it, and «sonie-
times descending to the water's edge, a'ong the nar-
row alluvion lime has redeemed from its be<i.

From Quebec to Montreal may be called one long
village. On either shore a stripe of land, seldom ex-
ceeding a mile in breadth, (except near the streams
whit h fail into (he St. iiuwretu e,) bounded by ab-
original t'orests, and thickly studded wiih low-brow-
ed farm houses, while-washed from (op to bottom,
to which a log-barn and stable are attached, and coin-
Dioidy a neat plot of garden ground, represents all
that is inhabited of Lower Canada. A cluster of
these hotises becomes a village, generally honoured
viUh (he name of some saint, whose church glitters
afar with (in spires and belfry. Upon (he shoulders
of (his patron saint, (he Canadian rests (he chief
part of his cares, both temporal and eternal — having
commit(ed his seed to the same ground, aiul in the
same manner with his forefathers, he trusts tha( (he
" bon Dieu^^ will, (hrough the intercession of (he
said saint, do the rest. Should an inclement season,
as was (he case last year, disappoint his hopes, he
is prepared |)a(ifcutly (o confess himself, anil die of
hunger, fully persuaded (hat the blessed St. Anne,
or St. Anthony, will not fail him in both woilds.

The spirit, which endures an evil rather than
overcome i(, h no( very favourable to the comlort
of a traveller : i( indicates bad roads, bad inns, bad
horses, and bad carriages ; all which he finds ac-
cordingly ; yet in spite of all tlioic, 1 prefer (he

THREE RIVERS, &C.

i\ '!

.'• t»

travelling of Ijower Canada, to thai of every otbei-
part of Ibe American Continent. You arrive at the
post house, (as the words " niaison de poste"
scrawled over the door give yon notice, thongh the
premises present no further hint of the appointment,
than perhaps a tattered culeche under the adjoining
shed.) "Hive you horses, 3Iadame ?" ^^oui^ Mon-
sieur, tout de s»t7p," — A. hind cry of "O/i/ 6011
hoinme," succeeds, to forward the intelligence to her
husband, at work in the adjacent tield — " Mais, as-
seyez vom, Monnieui' ;" — and if you have patience
to dt) this quietly for a few minutes, you will see
Crebillon, Papillon, or some other on ar^'ve from
pasture, mounted by honest Jean in his blue night
cap, with all his habilitnents shaking in the wind, at
a full canter. The invariable preliminary of splicing
and compounding the broken harness having been
adjusted, the whip cracks, and you start to the ex-
hiJarating cry of " marclie donc,^^ at the rate of six,
and often, seven miles an hour, with no stoppages.
Should a farther degree of speed be required, the
pls^ce of the English " extra shilling" is cheaply
supplied by a few flowers of rhetorick, bestowed in
the shape of an eulogium on Jean's punchy, fumbr
ling nag. " Ok Monsieur, il est l)ien capable,*' is
his complacent reply, (fov be it known, that no
knight of chivalry ere prized his gallant Bayarilo,
more than the Canadian his dumplin courser,) and
straightway, an additional mile in his hour's driving
makes good his boast, and places, beyond the slur of
sceptical doubt or criticism, Crcbillon's fame.

THREE RIVERS, AND FALLS OF SHAWINNEGAMME.

The village of " Trois Rivieres" stands at the
mouths of the St. Maurice, which, being three in
number, were mistaken by Jaques Cartier, or hit

THREB RIVERS, &C.

■f f

successors, for three distinct rivers, and thence the
village had its name. It cuntains an Ui^tiiiine con-
vent, which marks it for a place of some note in a
catholick country ; but it is still more worthy of dis-
tinction for being the residence of the Ahh6 de
Calonne, brother to the French minister of that
name, so unfortunately memorable. This excellent
old man, on the return of Louis XVII I. to France,
came into possession •)f property (chiefly forest-
lands, which had reiriained in the hands of the go-
vernment) to the value of 13000/ per annum, the
whole of which he immediately divided betwixt his
nephews ; rightly judging that the real affection of
relatives consists, not in a testamentary gilt of
wealth they are no longer able to enjoy, but in the
speediest application of whatever menns they pos-
sess, for promoting the happiness of their connex-
ions. For himself, he considers it wealth enough
that he is able to employ the e\ening of life in acts
of piety and benexolence towards bis little cure,
whose tears will honour his bier, and their giateful
remembrance be all his glory upon earth. He was
at this time actively engaged in uliexiating the dis-
tress residting from the last year's ilefective har-
vest. The inhabitants of many villages had, for
sometime, been reduced to li\e on such vegetables
as they could pick from the woods and fields, and
many had died of famine. Considerable relief was
afforded by the sale of commissariat stores, which
bad been collected largely in case of a continuance
of war. This measure had, perha[)s, some colla-
teral effect in producing the scarcity, but the pro-
diiclioi) of such extreme distress fiom a single bad
harvest, may be considered, generally, as symp-
tomatick of a bad system of agriculture.

Having procured two experienced boatmen, with
a bark canoe, I ascended the St. Maurice, to \i8it
the Falls of Shawinnegamme. The river banks, at
first low, rise, on ascending the stream, to the height

'«

^^«*'

8»

THRRB RIVERA, &C.

I n I!

aomefiines of 300 feef. There U an iron forge on
the ri(;ht bank, altoiit neven miles fruin TroiH Ri-
vieres ; after which, ihe silence of Ihe scene is
broken bnl by (he sound of the Rapids, or (he call
of 'he wild duck, as nhe skims (hrongh (he sed|b;es
betore the app'oach of (he canoe. Cunsiderubte
skill and exertion are requisite to force these frail
vehicles over (he ledges of rock which form (he ra-
pids : should fhe boa(-pole break, or be nnskilftdly
plunled, your paper craft is hurried o(ra( the mercy
of (he (orrent, and dashed (o :itoins : ye( of (his
Ihf^re is no dan;;er; or, a( least, no more (han suffices
to <;ive the -tpirits an acreeable imptilse. After as-
cending about fifleen miles, we disembarked at (wo
poitaf^es, wiMiin a short dis(ance of each o(her, form-
ed i)y immense masses of 2;rauite, wildly scattered
across the river beii, round which (he stream roars
and dashes, as if indi:i;nanf at tJM ir resistance, and
precipitates itself, sonetimes to the deptfi of (hir(y
or for(y fee(, cresting its tawny* Hra(ers with foam
and v;»p)ur. O le of the boatmen took the canoe,
fourteen feet in l»*ni;th, on his heaij, (he o(her carry-
ini{ i(s contents, and walked lit^adily with it, and his
fowlin;;piece in his hand, across rocks I found it
quite enough (o carry myself over. After paddling
a few miles further, the river expanded into an ample
basin, cios)>d roumi with pine-clad mountains, re-
fleeted from its limpitl b;>'*om. Ye( in (his seeming
■ecurify dwells (he i^reatesf danger: (he stream des-
cending rapidly into it, frofn (he immediate vicinity
of the falls, is unable (o find an exit with equal cele-
rity at (he opponite point, where (he channel nar-
rows ; part of it, therefore, makes a turn willjin the
basin, am) produces a vortex about its centre, in
which some of the early vova^eurs perished. The
diflllcuity is eas.ly avoided, when known, by creeping

* The Sr Vfjiui-ioo. rroin the dark coluur of its waton, il
rorainoDly called the Black Uivur.

TIIREB RIVERS, &C.

close round the edge of the shore. About half a
miie above the ba»in, the river again widens. The
tumbling of waters is now heard diijtinctly ; nothing
however is visible but a smooth sheet of wafer, at
the bottom of which, a lofty barrier of wooded rocks
forbids all further progress. CliH*s, equally lofty,
rise on either side. It is not (ill you have nearly
reached the shore in frcnt, that you perceive the
Falls, rushing down on your right hand info a gloomy
nook, which seeirts hollowed out for their reception.
I should conjecture their descent to be about 100
feet i* but the fall is not perpendicular, and is di-
vided by an islet, or mass of rocks, on which a few
pine and cedar trees liave taken root. The current
betwixt this island and the right bank does not ex-
ceed the width of twelve yards. The extreme
breadth of both falls together, may be sixty ; this,
however, is not easily estimated, because no front
view can be obtained, but from the perpendicular
cliffs which form the elbow round then), and which
I had no means of ascending. Much clauibering ii
requisite to reach the head of the descent, for the
regular carrying path cuts off the whole angle, and
though my boatmen had repeatedly ascended the
river to the highlands, (above TOO leagues,) they
bad never before approached the Falls. The rocks
round the foot of them are covered with trunks and
limbs of trees, worn round and smooth, as if turned
in a lathe, by the action of the torrent. After
spreatling my repast on a granite table, and sharing
my ruslick meal with my ronductors, we (taddled
rapidly down tlie current, and by the aid of « bright
moon, reached Three Uivers at ten o'clock, making
forty-four miles in thirteen lours.

* The diftrrrnt t'alli nml rapids Itotwijct \hv inoiitii of tli«
rivrr, uiiti (lir );rcat fall, caiiiiot hv it« kuiinl h! \vss tlinii IIK>
frrt nwvv : for tl»P whoir (irsn-nt <if tin- river iu tliis »|iac«,
1M ivoulil itrubably be no cxlrciiii) cnlculatiou.

THREE KIVERB, &C.

! :,i

After quitlinj; the Si. Maurice, the (ribiilary
streams of (be Si. Lawrence descend slowly and
inuddily through a coiisiderable extent of flat coun-
try, which skirts Luke Si. Peler, and spreads al the
back of the Montreal Island, as Car as the Two
Mounlains. The only marked elevation through
these exiensive flals, is liie anciont bank of the
river, from thirty to (ifly feel hii;h, running in the
direclion of, bui at various dislances IVoin, ils pre-
sent cliannel. Keluixl the M:l^()uenon;J;e and Ber-
thier, its distance is about a mile. M. Volney ob-
serves, that this second ramp is more particularly
distin<;uiHtiid>l«i alon^ the rivers of llie west.* It
is, however, not Ies8 retnarkable on the Si. Law-
rence, and ils tributary sli'eains, as far as Lake On-
tario. It is not only to be traced along the course
of the river generally, but follows each bay and
winding with a corresponding (lexure, thus indicat-
ing, that the subscipient change in the volume of wa-
ter iias taken place gradually, and without violence.
I could never discover a single creek without this
accompaniment, though the traveller repeatedly en-
counters these banks, separaletl by a flat channel of
eighty or a hundred yards in width, overgrown with
trees, through which the track of a scanty streamlet
is scarcely marked by a line of verdure, fresher than
the a<ljacent boltou).

The number of abandoned mill-seats, particularly
in parts of the country recently settled, as well
ns the difficulty of working many of those still in
use, shew the same process of draining to be still
cuntiii'iing.

Tin' little change which has taken place In the
line and figure of ||iph(> slopes warrants the belief,
that few centuries havt* passed since the greater part
of the cultivated iand of this continent was sub-
merged in moruMs, and pouring ri\ers, which have

* Tableau du tliuial, iic. i. p. 19.

THRBH: RIVeHH, &.C.

8.'}

aiiice entirely disappeareil, or lieen greafly reiliiced
in their limits. Where the coiiiilry is ilat, this se-
cond bank meat be 8uni:!;ht at a considerable distance
from the pii^senl i.hannt;! ; so that a £;(Micral rise of
fifty or sixty feet would probably oveillow cnnrh of
the ndiabiled country betwixt the Jaques Carlier
and Si. IManiici;, the whole neiulibonrhood of Lake
St. Fclcr and the Richelicn river, to the fool of the
BrUril IMoiiiitain, with the soiithwcBt shores of the
Montreal Ulan!, a!i*l the greater part of the npper
nio\ince, be.wixt the Ottawa and the neighbour-
hood of Pie*«'olt.

Havitiij; ferri«ul iVom Hcrlhier to Conlrccuenr, 1
proccedfd, "fit citlerlie.'* with two Ciebillons, to-
wards St. Oiiis, in the direction of the Beloeit Monn-
tain, towerinu. in the nnsly horizon. The meadows
were profusely decorated with the rich orange lily,
anil the banks and dingles with the crimson cones of
the Mimack, and a variety'* of (lowerin); shrubs. Se-
veral brills and merchant-^ships were tliopping down
wiih the tide, their crowded sailtf scarcely swelling
in the lan<^nid summer brec/e, which just sufliced tu
temper the ^,lowing atmofiphere of August.

The Canadian summer (Ihcugh the present year
formed in some degree an exception) is hot in pro-
portion to the severity of the winter, which enables
the cultivator to raise Indian corn, water melons,
gourdH. capsicunif, and such vegetablis as reipiire
u sIh ri and intense heat; a circumstance which
lends the country the aspect of a Portuguese sum-
mer, by way of appendix to a UiiHsian winter. M.
Volney observes, (torn. i. p. KM,) that this is the
case along the whole extent of She Atlanlick coast,
as far as the Koutlieiii slates ; each portion of which
is both hotter in MuuMiier, and colder in winter, than
its parallels in Kiirope, by many decrees. The
greatest heat ex|)erienci.d thin summer (esteemed a
very cold one) at (Quebec was 1)2** of Fahren. In
the shade, HO" and tt'i"* were averu^^e temperatures
during July and August.

.«

[«4 ]

■■ 1

.r I

(•

CHAPTER XV.

THE BEIXEIL MOUNTAIN.

On my arrival at the iinfrequeDted village of Beloeil,
I iHOceedeii, according to the travelling custom in
Cuniida, to the house of the curd, who generally
Gonhiderd, in the remoter parts of the country, the
trilling chargea of huspitaiily repaid by the novelty
ot a Htrangcr's, visit, and by the little news he cora>
monly brings with him ; but the cure of Belocil was a
youth ot the new school, a cold lanky figure, as
dilTereut from my mountain friend in manners, as in
appearance. With a very stifT apology* he recom-
mended me and my baggage to a neighbouring au-
berge, where I found more tolerable accommodation
than the exteriour seemed to promise ; it had, how-
ever, one puzzling quality, but which could be ex-
hibited in wet weather only ; wheu the shutters were
open, the whtdows would not keep out the rain, and
when they were closed, they would not let in the
light, so that |for one wet forenoon I had to choose
betwixt darkness and deluge. The next morning I
again crossed the river, and proceeded towards the
mountain, which towered like a wall of rock above
the tlat country round it. A few wretched houses
are scattered at its base, the inhabitants of which
subsist chiefly by the produce of their apple-or-
chards, whose luxuriant verdure richly embowvPrs
(he whole slope, until the ascent becomes difficult.
At the end ol this hainiet is a mill, built on the edge
of a ravine, and turned by the streamlet of (iie
mountain-lake descending down it. Here 1 stopped
to breakfast i for the mill lervea in the capacity of

THE BKLOCIL MOUNTAIN.

r Beloeil,
ustom in
generally
ntry, the

novelty

he com-
e'iI was a
giire, as
rs, as in
e recom-
iring au-
tnodation
ul, how-

1 be ex-
ers were
rain, and

t in (he
) choose

orning I

u'ds (he

above

hoiinea

which

pple-or-

ibowv»rs
iflicult.

10 edge
of the
topped

at il^ of

an inn, to the few whom chance may mislead, or
repentance for the sin of ghittony induce to stop at
it. I found, however, bread, milk, and fresh eiigs,
(but no tea-spoon to eat them with,) and paid (he
price of a London hotel breakfuMl ; a strong proof of
the actual want prevailing in (he province. To
avoid the (hick murky air of (he dwelling, I had my
table placed out of doors, in the shade of (he houne,
and breakfasted to (he a<lmira(ion of half a dozen
curly ragged heads, clustering at (he window (o
watch how I ale ; an honour, I remember, paid to
the great travellev Gulliver, by the natives of liilli-
pu(.

After breakfac,^ I began the ascent. The first
part of (he way lies (hrough a deep grove of ni;»ple,
and prescn(s no grea(er ditliculty than that of mount-
ing, or creeping round the masnes of rock whirh
cover the ground, and effectually bar the road (o
one unac(piain(ed wi(h i(8 defiles. The ragged ur-
chin, who served me as guide, led on, like a goat
bred on (he soil, up (he narrow (raci, which, now
ascending above (he shelter of (lit; woods, exposed
us (o a burning sun';"* (he dust and fatigue of clamb-
ering were in no want of (his addidonal it!ly (o len-
der (he expedition somewha( fa(iguing< The height
of (he first pinnacle is \2(U) feet ; it issepar.led from
the highest point, called tlu; Sugar Loal', by a deep
and thickly (imbered valley, (owards (he end of
which, a beautiful lake, about half a mile in circum-
ference, reposes amid its woods ; so calm, Hcchided,
and raised above (he eardi, i( seems (he Mountain-
Spirits' bath, or (he magick lake of somu Ar.ibian
fiction. It abounds wi(h excellen( fish, (hough I
have no reason (o (hink (hey are of four colours, or
make speeches in (he frying-pan.

'*' The tlirrmuravlor itood at OO"* in tlie Rliude, btforc I be-
i^Bii to aiccnd.

**-

THK BELa!:iL MOUNTA.IN.

'\l

From the summit of the cone,* (for Ihe Sugar
Loaf has some little claim to its i)|)|)ellation,) the eye
coinmunda the course of the St. Liwretice, with its
two lakes ; and belvvixt them, the town ami hei<rhta
of Montreal : on on-? side, Ihe course of the Riche-
lieu, vrith the Chamhiy fort and basin, and frontier
woods beyond; on the other, ihe Atamasca ; and to
the south, continued mountain rid,>;es, fadin*; in the
distance: except in this direction, the whole pros-
pect is a level plain of woodland, intersected and
8[)<>ited with brown patches of cultivation, and white

villa;;es.

Volumes of smoke, from the casual, or intentional
burning of woods, every where clouded the horizon,
and seemed to give additional heat to Ihe glowing
landscape.

Tiie basis of the mountain is granite, forming a
bold termination to that branch of Ihe Oreen M(tnn-
(ains, which divides Ihe wnlers of lake Cham|)lain
from Ihe sources of Ihe A.tamasca and St. Fran-
cis.f Qn mv way down, I stopped to refresh my-
self at a delicious Sjiring, in the valley of the lake,
repaying the favour, as I could best afford, with an
idle verse : —

h/i

Seldom. O Niiiad, thy ^n(|iiKster*d dell

Hath pil^rriin trodJeii, or Ifiit o'er lliy well

To slakf^ ills tliirst, and lavo his throl>l)in<<; brow,

And thank Iheo lor th«.' Ihion, as I do now !

Tliiiio is no sliiiliul draiiti;lit, ttiit larj^Kly eiven

As hlpssihi^s art; raiit'd dovrn on man Ity hcav'n ;

Not as mm i^ivos to man — Tlinr«'lon! I'll thmk,

In tutiini days, npon tliy grassy brink.

And nameless spriiiK; ; cold, undistnrb'd and clnar,

As Alpino iriclcs, or holy snor,

* Till' hcif^hl of this piuuaule hai buuu ascertained to be
140() icnt.

f Volncy oljsorrrH, i, 49.

" liC sitmmct di< la monta^nc dc IIcIumI oM do }|;ranit, anlii
quo lo rhainoii di>s miinU<{n)^s lilanchuK de Ne«r Hampshire
auquel on puut dire qn'il appartiont."

I'l

% ^

iTtained to be

THE DELCEIL MOUNTAIN.

Whose bosom passion never touched with fire :

And this iiay*8 imMiiory shall live fntire,

To tell how on an August noon I toil'd

To gain Hi-'la^rs rude summits; all hemoil'd

With threading tluUiot wilderness of iMUghs,

Whose intcrtwiniiiL -ranty path allows;

And climhuig rocks oi ^^ranite, broad and bare,

Which, thus upheaving their grey sides in air,

Like Nature's altars seem ; or giant thrones,

Where mountain (ienii sit, to catch the tones

Of 'teav'n's high minstrelsy, and thence prolong

In v/aterlalls and breexes, the deep song.

The peak at length, and topmost stone I won,

And guz'd upon the lanilscape, wide and dun;

Far-gleamini: lakes, and the majestick river,

Whosesilver waters through the brown fields quiver;

Broad forests uiapp'd all round, the royal bill,

In sultry mistiness repos'd and still :

Descending thence, I hail thy silent bow^r.

In its gr^'cn frcsjinrss, at this glowing boiir,

When birds are panting in the leafy brakes.

And the biytbe grasliopprr shrill miisick makes,

A uoonlide rev»'ller— and long for thee

Be this, (by vaMey of (he iiiouiitain, free

From woodman's stroke; so o'er (by shaded spring

These tower ng maples shall their verdure fling.

And, shield- like, their broad branches overspread.

To fence (be <-oolness of thy mossy bed —

My harp is feeble, \aiad, and its tone

Best heard by echoes, lonely as thine own,

Kise, Willi Kaiulusia's fountain, thou shouldst live

Th' immortal life sweet jMietry can give.

Thou, and thy kimlred lake, whose moonlight brim, )

No Kummer elves have printed, gemm'd and (rim, >

Gvok'd by tdiepberd's reed, or minstrel's hymn. S

{

I 08 J

CHAPTER XVI.

MONTREAL.

m\'\l

i't

The basis of the Montreal Mountain is freestone;
th»? asrent is connequently less steep, and the siir-
fa«'f* (ess broken, than those of Beloeil : it is thickly
woo<le<!, and, form (he river, forms an elegant back-
groiinl 'o fhe city : I Mhould not suppose its hei^^ht
to exreid 1000 feet. Montreal is regularly built, for
the most part of stone, and paved. In front of the
gaol an.l coui-thouse, is a column in honour of Lord
Nels;>u, crowned with his sta'ue.*

Ttie religious auf' charitable institutions of Mon-
treal are counterparts of those at Quebec. The
principal Catholick church is rich and handsome.
The protestant church, like its brother at Quebec,
will probably decay ere finished. Tliere seems
BO nethin.; in the Canadian climate, unfavourable to
the 2;iowth of Protestant churches, thou£;h the En-
glish inhabitants are great friends to Protestant as-
cendancy ; a feeling less costly than church build-
inz,' The college, or seminary, a capacious stone
building, has been lately repaired and enlarged. It
was originally endowed as a branch of the seminary
of P iriji ; and has afforded an asy'um, since the re-
volution, to several of the members of the latter,
whost: learning and talents have been employed in
its advancement. f The fineKt lands of the island

* It si*f>m<i odd. tliat instead of a colinnn (o liord IVelson,
who«'' s»-rvu»«, how<-vf*r glorious, wcuo not very immediately
comr^rted with Taiiada, it wus not thoi^lit prei'urable lo erect
KOiUi* memorial lo tlio mtiiuory of Wolfe.

t Thix asylum was opened to tlicin hy our {ovcrnucnt

MONTRBAL.

belons; to it. There seems a greater spirit of muni-
cijial improvement iti IVIontreal fhan in Quebec : it
is probably ri('li(;r : besides being the emporium of
the fur rraiie, it!< merchants carry on a conHiderable
traffick with the United Slates, particularly Vermont,
and the back country of New York. The fur-tra-
ders, or North-westers, as they are familiary termed,
take (lie lead in society, for they five the best din-
ners. Their ladies have consequently the privilege
of leadin-j; the fashions ; an eminence not less anx-
iously desired, nor preserved with tewer heart burn-

ings.

in a little town on the St. Lawrence, ih

an in

the capitals of France and Enulartd.

Ttie winter is accitunied two months shorter here
than at (-iuebec. The snmm«'r heat seems more
oppressive: the flat and '<ht'l(ered site of the town,
its roofs covered with tin, and its window shutters
plater! with iron, totrether with abundance of dust,
produce a furnace-like atu)0<^|)hei( . I met uilh no-
thin, in the town which «oul(l be called remarkable,
except a pathetick adilress to a rnn-a-nay wile from
her diHconsolate husbanti, written on a window-pane
where, I lodged. I call this remarkable, for surely
it is a strant;e propensity to make an attempt on
ubiick Hymptihy, by a (Jisclosine of troubles more
kely to excite ridicule than pity. We find

in-

deed, at every tiiin in life, persons eager to liuhten
th*;ir griefs by sharing thnn, vwn with a stran-ier,
if he can be induced to h'nd a nciions

countenance

to their recital, hut (his attempt upon the svmpathy
of siranijerH absdariedly, seems an odder instance
of (his leakiness oi o mu.

ply :—

imagined, but did not subscribe, (he following

re-

liord Nelson,

iinintMiialely

ralile to erect

Aw\ who art thou. iMifnrtiinatr, whose pain

Tliii«. U'-ks iIk' <ri iK'i-al trap '
Thy Oiari' 111' vvi) cmililM t lioii «.() ill siistaio.

That thou should'st write it here ?

• i

....••'*^A-»-»«*

,-.♦"

V MONTREAL.

To meet the gaze of laiighter-lnving scorn,

And court the piihlick jeer ?
Deein'st thou, that fir«t of men, the nuptial hr -^

Thy brow hath glorified ?
Yet learn such honours should be meekly worn

Nor perk them in our t'acrs. to df ride
Patient believers in a constant bride.

Frail as this ser bbled glass
Are those fair things we wor^-hip and despise;

Nor, — should thv life-hlnod pass
Like rain-drops, — ««ill they heed the sacrifice:

To thy fair wanton's ears
The voice of thy coiniilamt like musick flows;

And gemm'd with lover's tears.
The coronal of Beauty brighter glows :

Then deem not she'll relent.
Or stoop the wild wng of her joyous flight,

Pitying thy fond lament !
TLou rather, in some cell of eremite,

Thy foolery repent.
That know'st not Love's sweet flowers with venom wefe
aye blent.

'! •

[ 91 ]

CHAPTER XVII.

MONTREAL TO THE BOUNDARY.

Aug. 7tli. La Chine
I'oiiit Clair
St. Aiiae
[Ferry
Cfciars
8tb. Coteau-du-Lac

7 Milei.

3J
9

7 Caleche.

Xhb road from Montreal to the ferry crosges a coun-
try generally level, but pleasingly diversified with
wood and cultivated land, for the most part meadow.
The hay harvest had commenced, a^id the fragrance
of the fresh swathe seemed to unite with the cooling
aspect of the broad St. Lawronce in tempering the
Bun's heat. The villages of La Chme, and Point
Clair, were enlivened by groups of soldiers, who had
marched in from Montreal, and were taking up their
quarters for the night ; occasionally small parties of
Indians, from the oppo.site village of Cochenouaga,
with their hats tricked out with feathers, necklaces
of large blue beads, tinsel girdles, and bronzed in-
fants, looking out from theit* cradles,''^ at their moth-
ers' backs, formed a fanciful contrast to tlie regular
costume of the soldiers.

* 1 1186 thifl word for want nf a iM^tter : (lie Indian women
atill fasten their riiildreu to a flat hoard, which Han^s lit^hind
them, and ii dci'endod l>y small hoops of wicker, on ttie expos-
ed tide.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

11.25

lis

■ 25
^ li^ |2.2

■ 2.0

^U4

Photographic
.Sciences
Corporation

9S WHT MAIN STMIT

WHSTH.N.Y. I4SI0

(7U) •73-4S03

r/.

MONTREAL TO THE BOUNDARY.

! 1

The bustle of the road had all vanished by the
time I entered (he little wood immediately round the
ferry, and was succeeded by a scene of quiet splen-
dour, that Claude would have delighted in. 1 seated
myself on a rock, near the water's edge, lo admire it.
An orchard, belonging to (lie ferry-house, with the
adjacent wood, closed the back ground : oti my right,
the river spread otit into the lake of the Two Moun-
tains, whose blue summits bounded the pioHpect in
that direction : on my left was a lilt'e church of grey
stone, stained with moss, and going fast to decay ;
beyond which, on the opposite shore, lay the mas-
sive woods of L'Isle Perroi : the ri\er in front of me
(which is here about three miles over) was spotted
with numberless rocky islets, behind which, the sun,
sinking in a flood of golden (ire, presented, in beauti-
ful relief, the dark clumps of pine trees, which seem-
ed pencilled out on their summits. A herd of cattle
at this moment came down lo water, and as they loi-
tered listlestsly in the glassy stream, seemed to share,
with man, in the tranquil feelings of the scene and
hour. The ferryman's broad straw hat, and light
canoe, now appeared ; and as we paddled swiftly by
these many little island-bowers, towards the glowing
west, fancy may be pardoned for half sketching a

Fassage lo the Elysian fields, or enchanted gardens of
talian romance. The blaze of sun-set had mellowed
into the purple tints of evening, before we reached
the opposite shore : I proceeded by moonlight to the
Cedars, where I procured lea, by knocking up a civil
landlord, and the next morning went on to " Coteau-
du-Lac," between which, and Cornwall, runs the
boundary line of the two provinces.

After quitting the neighbourhood of IVIontreal, we
lee little of the French Canadian ; he is succeeded
by settlers of a character very ditTerent ; and with
whom he is generally placed in humiliating contrast.
lie gains lillle by travellers ; few enter his cottage,
0r ioquiiitively scan the character of an ignorant and

/*■

MONTREAL TO THB BOUNDART.

Buperstilious race, who aspire to little more than to
Walk in the steps of their prieslH, and loiefalhers.
Certainly, if intellectual power be the sole measure of
human merit, their's lies in little compass. — Ignoiunt
they unqneiitionably are, though I lioubt whether
they have a right to such extreme pre-eminence in
this respect, as Enp;lishmen are usually libtMal enough
to assign them. Schools are common through ilie
Province, and the number of colleges seems propor-
tioned to the population : the gentry and tratiesimen
appear not much inferiour in information to ilic voun-
Uy gentlemen and tradesmen of wiser natii>ns ; and if
the share of the peasant's intellect exceeds noi much
that of the ox he drives, he iniy claim fellowship in
this respect, with the pea^iiint of almost every cunnlry
on the globe, except the Uwited Stales, lie is cer-
tainly superstitious, that is, he believes all his piirst
tells him — no great peculiarity. Let not, ho' c\rr,
those qualities be overlooked, whit h give a grace to
his poverty, sweeten the cup of his privations, and
almost convert his ignorance into bli'*8. — K"»Miii;illy
a Frenchman, he is gay, courteous and conlenicfl :
If the rigours of a Canadian climate have somewhat
chilleil the overflowing vivacity derived from liis pa-
rent stock, he has still a sullirii-nt portion of g*/od
spirits and loquacity, to make his rulers :ind nei;:.h-
bours seem cold and silent: To strangers and travel-
lers, be is invariably civil, seemin;: to v.ilne I heir
good word beyond their money : lie is reckoned

J)arsimonious, because all his gains arise from his sav-
ngs : He is satisfied with the liuiidilest fare, and his
utmost debauch never exceeds a " coup" of nnn, and

f>ipe of tobacco, taken with a dish &' gossi|>, I lie only
uxury in which he can be accouDtctI extravauant.
The influence of the priests is pro! ably injnrinns, as
it atTects mental improvement, benc'leial u'lli re~^i»e( t
to morals. Religion, or rather superstition, and p n-
rality, are so birmled in (he mind of the ( .ucMlii.n,
(hat were the former shaken, considerable timt must

111, ^
I ;•' ' ' j',

'■ii

MONTREAL TO THE BOUNDARY.

elapse before any basis could be raised on which to
found the latter. At present, great crimes are almost
unknown, and petty ufTences are rare ; I have indeed
heard the lower classes accused of a propensity to
pilfer, but I am inclined to think, few instances of
this kind occur, e^ccept from the pressure of extreme
want. The late war, by calling out a considerable

Eroportion of the population to serve in the militia,
as produced an evii<ent change in the manners of
the youug men : 1 always found two invariable symp-
toms of a man's having served ; a little more intelli-
gence, and a great deal more knavery. But if the
war did iiof mend their morals, it certainly raised
their character : They exhibited a high degree of
courage in the field, and an affectionate zeal towards
their governo- r, whom they believed their friend:
a striking instance of this occurred early in the war.
While Sir George Prevost was at Montreal, a body
of several hundred peasants, from the remotest set-
tlements of the province, came to wait on him ; each
man was armed with whatever weapon he could pro-
cure on the spur of the occasion, and all were cloath-
ed and provisioned for immediate service : An old
man, who had been a soldier in the revolutionary
war, was at their head, who thus addressed Sir
George : " My general, we heard you were in diffi-
culty, and have marched to your assistance ; I have
served myself, and though an old man, do not think I
am quite incapable of duty." — Sir GeorgCj strongly
aflfected with this instance of attachmentr 4<*'Cepted
their services, ind they acted as a separat«<body
during the whole of the campaign.

The Canadians bear a considerable antipathy to
the Americans, whom they denominate, ** Sacres
Bastonnais.*** I believe it to arise principally from
religious prejudices; in proof of which, there is a
itriking anecdote related in the life of Franklin, who

*" BoBtooeit. Inbabitaotiof Boitoo.

*»

■W

.}'

MOITTREAL TO THK BOUNDART.

made an attempt to bring them over to the revolu-
tionary cause. At this day, even the better inform-
ed among them are rull}r persuaded that the Ameri-
can guvernment is constantly plotting their ruin, and
the destruction of the mighty city of Quebec. I
was witness to a curious exemplification of this feel-
ing : A young Canadian, by no means illiterate, in-
formed me one morning, with a very grave face, that
a tremendous plot had been discovered — to destroy
the whole city by blowing up the powder magazine ;
that a train had been found ready laid, and no
doubt existed of an American's being at the end of
it. 1 took the trouble to trace the source of this re-

Eort, and found it to originate in an order to mend a
roken door belonging lo the magazine. A Bre never
happens in the town, (and they happen very often,)
but the " Bastonnaia^* are the incendiaries. — Petty
quarrels betwixt the natives and the Vermontese keep
this feeling alive ; and the English may well say of It,
in the words of Sir Lucius O'Trigger, ♦' 'Tis a pret-
ty quarrel as it is, and explanation would spoil it."

i« '

«• V - «»rtE<*- '

» »

[ 96 ]
CHAPTER XVin.

UPPER CANADA.

Miles.

August 8th,

Cornwall,

40 Batteau

gth,

Milleroche*,

b Iti

Williamsburg,

PrfHcolt,

19 Stage.

Brock ville.

14 Waggon

10th,
nth,

GiinHiioqua, \
KingstOQ, i

36 Boat.

A's

133 1-2

•li.v

'>J.'

{ ', ^ '

'Tis a sad waste of life to ascend the St. Lawrence
in a batteau. After ad.niring the exertions with
which the CinaHiio baattnen, w'lo see'ii to liave ex-
clusive poHHes'iion of this e n}>ii)yfnenf, force their
Ion,; 1il-b')flo n^ii barks against the rapiiU, there is
nofdin^ left bit to gaze listlessly on the descending
current, an I its low wojJetl shorjes ; while the mono-
tony of the oir-stroke i* scarcely broken by the oc-
casionil rustling of a wild dirk through the sedge, or
cry of the A Q»rican king-fisher, as he darts froTi
80 ne hinging bough on his scaly prey. It cost us
15 hoiirs to row fro n Coteau dn-Lac to Corn will,
with bill one incident during the vo\rage ; this wns a
piirchise, or rather barter, of bisi'iiit for dried eels,
with a party of half-naked In lians, who n we found
idly occupied, under a clump of trees on the shore,
in curing the produce of their fishery. Several of
their birch cinoes were anchored among the islands,
or glancing along the stream, as we passed the neigh-
bourho'>d of St. Regis, where the Oswegatcbies have
a settlement.

A sta;e-wiggon runs from IVIjutreal to Prescott,
and carries the mail, which is afterwards conveyed
on hir.ieb.ick to Kingston ; ( took it at Cornwall, and
can answer for its being one of the roughest convey-
ances on either side the Atlantick.

^ 4 :-*tftr;^*

'*>«',—. •• ..V* ._•■(•»*

UPPER CANADA.

The face of the country is invariably flat ; and, (as
in Lower Canada,") settlements have not spread far
froiu (he river, and main road, which follows its banks.
There is, however, an evident dilference betwixt the
two provinces, as to the mode of settling. The
system ol'farming is here altogether Etiglish, or Ame-
rican. The low, deep-roofed Canadian dwelling,
gives place to the English farm-house, or Yankey fir-
boarded mansion, with a dozen sash windows in its
front. Instead of churches we have taverns ; gaols,
and assembly-roomd for convents ; and a half sulky
nod for a French bow. Two Canadian postillions
never meet without touching their hats ; the Portu-
guese peai^antry are equally ceremonious ; when the
American or Englishman nods, '(is like the growling
salutation of a masdtf, who has no( quite leisure enough
to (urn and quarrel with you.

The picturesque is but scantily spread through
this tract of counlry ; occasionally, however, on
emerging from a dark clump of pines, or hickory
Kood, the eye dwells with pleasure on the course
of (he river, broken with wooded islands, and
foaming over a thousand rocks.* The chirp of the
locust, (he continual tapping of the redheaded wood-
pecker, {picas erythrocephidus,) and the light bound
of the squirrel, as he traverses (he newly erected
fences, are sights and sounds which enliven, what,
as far as regards the features of (he coun(ry, may
be called a somewhat heavy journey. Prescott is
remarkable for nothing but a square redoubt, or fort,
called Fort VVelling(on. As a military traveller, I
should observe, there is a small fort at Coleau-du-
Lac, through the works of which a lock has been
cut, to avoid a dangerous rapid. — I found the ac-
comodations at Prescolt so bad, (hat I seated my
■elf at midnight in a light waggon, in which two gen-

* There in a mill and small Tillage, within a Tew miles of
Cornwall, named ** Milleroclies,** from the aiyacent rapidi.

13 a"

I n 1

,,;i^i

'^-„

UPPER CANADA.

tiemen were going to Brockville, and was thus so far
jumbled into their acquaintance, that thev politely
offered me a passage to KingHlon, in a boat belooi^ing
to the navy, which was waiting for them at Biock-
ville. I am always unlucky on the water, whether
it be in crossing the ocean, or a duck pond: The
wind [Koved contrary, and our heavy boat pulled
slowly against the current ; it was, however, not so
bad as the batteau voyage : 1 had the advantage of
agreeable company, and a good provision basket, the
contents of which were spread, towards noon, on a
granite table, near the shore ; a kettle was boiled at
an adjacent cottage, and an excellent breakfast ar-
rani!;ed, " sub tegminefagi.*^ Occasional repetitions
of this ceremony tended evidently to relieve the te-
dium of the journey, which lasted till the evening of
the day after our embarkation.

The river banks, from the neighbourhood of Brock-
ville, are of limestone, from 20 to 50 feet in height,
and evidently grooved, or hollowed, by the tides of
former age^t. Immense masses of reddish granite are
scattered along the bed of the stream, and some-
times pri^ject bare and bold from the shore. On
one of these projections there is a blockhouse, form-
ing a prominent object at a considerable distance.
The islands which crowd the approach to Lake On-
tario, called, from their number, 1000 isles, have all
a granite basis, but are cloathed with cedar, pine,
and abundance of raspberries ; The bed of the Ga-
nanoqua is also of granite, and the lofty banks of the
Kingston river, near the mills, are of the same rock,
which probablv crosses the'country near the heads
of the Oswegatchie, Muskinsons, Juniatta, and Ap-
palusia rivers (the latter of which has a fall of 150
feet,) till it strikes, by Lake Champlain, the ridge of
the Bejccil mountains. The Gananoqua is rising
into importance, from the circumstance of a neir
•ettlement being formed, under the auspices of go-
vernment, on the waters^ with which it communi-
catcB. ^

DPPER CANADA.

This settlement lies on the head lakes of the Ri-
deau, and is meant to secure a communication be-
twixl Montreal and Kingston, by way of the Utiana,
in case of another war : The settlers are chietly
disbanded soldiers, who clear and cultivate under the '
superintendance of officers of the quarler-master-ge-
neral's department. Each man draws rations for
himself and family, the expenise of which is about
five shillings per ration, so that it may be justly call-
ed a hothouse settlement. A canal has been cut to
avoid the falls of the Rideau, and the communica-
tion, eith<jr by the Gananoqua, or Kingston, will be
iaip'uved by locks. Kingston is singularly happy
in ifii >>ite, lor naval piirpubes; it consists of three
parts, disposed thus : —

■ !^

""r^*.

100

OFFER CANADA.

V:^-l

The basis of the soil is a complete quarry of lime-
itoiie, ditiposed in horizontal strata, on the surface of
the earth, and requiring only (o be raised with
a lever, to be fit for use. The fort, which was
merely a field work during the war. Is now finishing
with stone dug from its own foundation ; and, having
two stout Marteilo lowers, already looks formidable
from the lake : it is meant chiefly to defend the navy-
yard, which it commands. There are batteries on
Point Frederick; and on the point of the town,
which is pallisaded, and strengthened with block-
houses. I( contains some good houses, and stores;
a small theatre, built by the military for private thea-
tricals ; a large wooden Government-house, and all
the appendages of an ex(eneive military, and naval
establishment, with as much society as can reasona-
bly be expected, in a town so lately created from
the " howling desert." The adjacent country is
flat, stony, and barren ; a circumstance which per-
haps increases the kind of interest peculiar to the
place : do you approach it by land ? The road lies
through a tract of forest, in the midst of which the
first rude traces of population are scarcely visible :
do you come by water ? Uncultivated islands, and an
uninterrupted line of wooded shore, seem conduct-
ing you to the heart of a wilderness, known only to
the hunter, and his prey : you emerge from a wood,
double a headland, and a fleet of ships lies before
you, several of which are as large as any on the
ocean: others, of equal dimensions, are building on
the spot, where, a few months since, their frame-
timbers were growing. Two sources of aslonish-
ment here rise in the mind : first, the magnitude of
the resources called into action ; secondly, the ob-
ject which called them forth. Of the first, some
idea may be formed, by considering that the St.
Lawrence alone cost 300,000^ The Psyche fri-
gate, sent from England in frame, cost 12,000/. in
transporting from Quebec. The Commissariat dis-

■«Jf*"«L^4y ■. ^,fi.-

UPPER CANADA.

101

bursements at Kingston, during the war, were esti-
mated at 1000/. per diem. The present expense
of the naval establishment is about 25,000/. per an-
num : the navy -yard employs 1200 labourers."^ For
the object, on one side, there is America, with
<< millions on millions" of acres beyond what her po-
pulation can fill up, on the other, England, contend-
ing for, and expending her best blood and treasure
in defence of, a country, one half of which is little
better than a barren waste of snows, and the other,
a wild forest, scarcely intersected, by a thread of
population. This is the "gfrosjeu" of society.

* Considerable reductions have lately taken place in the
whole establishment.

"* Jit

rvff-t.i

■'■*. . iC ^j'

hi-

•»>

^,'A> V-

* »

[ 102 1

CHAPTER XIX.

IINGSTON TO THB BAY OP ftUINTE.

'■.'M

Ernest Town
Adolphus Town
Lake of the Mouatain

18 Miles.
14

This is the most interesting excursion in the neigh-
bourhood of Kingston. Adolphus Town is pleasant-
ly situated on the neck of the bay. Its farms are
thriving, and cultivation is pushing rapidly through
the forests, round the numerous streams and bays,
which water every part of the adjacent country.
After crossing the ferry, two miles beyond Adol-

Ehus Town, I ascended a limestone did', to the
lake of the Mountain, immediately on its verge :
recent measurements have fixed its height at ITd
feet : the lake may be a mile in circucnference, and
abounds in fish : it formerly discharged itself into
the river by a perpendicular fall from the summit
of the cliflf: the channel of the cascade still remains,
but the stream is more profitably, though less taste-
fully, employed in working a mill. From this Ta-
ble Land the eye commands a lovely prospect,
along the irregular shores of the bay, into which the
river Nappanee, and a variety of streams, empty
themselves, through a rich country, the dark mas-
liveness of whose forests is already considersrlily
broken, and relieved by settlements and corn-fieli a.
Wheat harvest was just now (August 16tb) begii-
ling ID this neighbourhood, and generally through

'«

KINGSTON TO THE BAT OP qVINTE. 103

Upper Canada. Excepting the river Nappanee, on
which the Mohawks have a settlement, all the names
rnunil this bay are right loyal, or royal, from Ernest
Town, to Adolphus Town, Prince Edward's Bay,
Sophiasberg, Maryflberg, and Ameliasberg, on the
furthest neck of land at its head. This happy
choice, if the inhabitants had any thing to do with
it, speaks well for their politicks. Their morals are
no less refined, being, to judge from their names of
things, modelled on the Pialonick system. I re<
quested the fair Maritornes of the inn at Adolphus
Town, to feed my horse, while I walked through the
village. " But is he ugly ?" said she ; ** handsome
enough to be fed," I answered ; not then compre-
hending, that in the language of the country, she
elegantly alluded to his moral qualities, of which
alone beauty, or deformity may be truly predi-
cated.

The road from Ernest Town to Kingston runs,
for the most part, through forest ; but the heaviness
of the scenery is frequently relieved by the course
of some quiet creek, descending betwixt its rocky
hi Vs to the lake, which gleams at irt^tervals through
the trees. The summer stillness of^the landscape
seemed forcibly to contrast itself wjth the sights
and sounds of war, which had so~*laiiely prevailed
there; and, as the inhabitants declare, Jiad frighten-
ed all the deer and wolves back to Lake Huron :
certain it is, they have lately become Very scarce,
so the fact is poetically credible. t

Ontario's ample breast is still.

And silence walks tlie distant h\\\;

And siiitimor barks are gently gliding,

Wliere lately yonder war-towers riding

Seem'd, like leviathans, to load

The bosom of the groaning flood.

Oft as grey dawn broke o'er the wave,

Each hostile line stern greeting gavs,

And oft. beneath the setting sun, «

Responsive peai'd each heavy gun.

It "ill

/"i

vi.

< »

■1 «■■ ■•■',

■•#■

104 KINGSTON TO THE BAY OF QCINTB.

^ Then crouch'd the midoight ambuscade, i
T Within the pine-wood's pillar'd shade,
And Indian war-notes fiercely rose,
A death-dirge to unwary foes.
As burst their murdering attack
Upon the drowsy Bivouack.
Round leagci-ed fort, and post, and ford.
The crashing shell and cannon roar'd,
Till rung th' alarum of the fray,
•» From old Toronto's* quiet bay,
To rhere Niagara madly pours
His uoiiing tide 'twixt mountain shores : —
The eagle, whose broad wing was spread
Above the cataract's wild bed,
Scar'd by unwonted thunders, rose
To hang the nest of his repose.
Where cedars desolately wave ^i-

O'er Naniboja's island-grave :f
No wolf bis moon-light hunt pursued, *
By Erie's forest sol'-tude.
But cowering from his covert ran,
Dr\>ading the lordlier chase of man;
^ Nor dar'd th' unhunted stag remain

Near his lov'd haunts, and green demesne,
But far from sounds of human slaughter.
He strays by Huron's distant waler.

* The Indian name for York, where formerly was an Indian
town.

t One of the IMnnitoulin islands. For the story, yid. Hen-
ry's Travels la Canada, in 17«U and 1776, p. liS.

>. ■

.vt;;'.

• ■• )

'1.'. '■' ^ i -

i«'

*:>

♦ *

I ' '

-t^: ,

[ 105]

CHAPTER XX.

WESTERN COUNTRY OP NEW YORK.

as an Indiao
.▼id. Hen-

•■ „ >
•i ;i < •

: .^.

J(;u8t 31 8t, Sackett'8 Harbour,

Vliles. Packet.

pt. Ist, Wntertown,

10 1

Vaggon.

2d,' DftunHrk,

Martinsberg,

3d, Tur.n,

Leyden,

iitftiben.

Trniton, )

Uticn, <

Atli, New Hartford,

Vernon,

Chenango,

Manlitis,

Jainejivillp,

OuoiidBgo Hollow,

li^ MarcelluH,

bkaiienctas.

6tb. Auburn,

Aureliui,

Cayuga,

Geneva,

1»

Canandaieua,

Stage,

7th, Biirninii Spring

Rocliester,

3U Jeriiey waggoo

ttli, & 0th, LewiRtown, by the
Bridge road,

Stage.

364

Sackrtt's harbour haR a mean appearance after
Kin<^»ton ; ilH Hitiiation Ih low, the liuibuiir hijiuII, and
fort ifi cat iuiifl of very inditKt rent conHtriiclion, both
as to form anil inateriuU. The navy-yurd conMiHta
merely of a narrow loni^ne of land, the |> int of
which afiurdH just space RutticieDt tor the cunitruc-

i^r-

■•^

.-f* *

106

WESTERN eOUNTRV OF NEW YORK.

:h f

tion of one first-rate vessel, with barely room for
workshops, and stores, on the remaining part of it.
One of the largest vessels in the world is now on
the stocks here; her dimensions are li)6 feel keel,
by 57 beam ; she is built over, to preserve her, and
may literally be said to be housed : there is an ob-
servatory on the top of the building, commanding an
extensive view of the lake, and flat wooded country.
About a mile up the river, there is another vessel
of equal dimensions, built, and housed, literally in
the woods. The town consists of a long street, in
the direction of the river, with a fe\r smaller ones,
crossing it at right angles: it covers less ground than
Kingston, and has fewer good houses ; it has, how-
ever, the advantage of a broad flagged footway,
while the good people of Kingston, notwithstanding
the thousands expended in their town, and the quar-
ries beneath their feet, submit to walk ancle deep in
mud, after every shower. Whence this difference ?
The people of Kingston are not poor, ignorant,
French Canadians, but substantial, active, Scotch or
English traders. Probably it lies in this, that the
Americans are at home, while the English Canadian
considers himself as a temporary resident, for the
purpose of making a fortune (o spend in hia native
country.

The fortifications at Sackett's are so inconsidera-
ble, that one is equally surprised that the American
government should have left their naval depdt so
inadequately protected, and that our army should
have failed to take it. An American naval officer,
who obligingly showed us through the navy yard,
related by what singular accident the place waa
saved ^from Sir George Prevosl's attack; an anec-
dote I have since heard confirmed, from a variety of
sources. The garrison consisted almost entirely of
militia, under General Brown, and ran away on
the first cannonade, leaving a few artillery-men in
the fort, who w«i^e preparing to abandon it; the

\i >

.♦

WESTERN COUNTRY OP NEW YORK.

lOl

buildings of llie navyyartl were already on fire.
The general having in vain atlemjited to stop his
panick-slrnck soldiers, crossed (heir flight, at the end
of the street leading towards Brounville, declaring,
that if they would run, (hey should not run towards
home, and so turned them otf to the Oswego road,
which runs obliquely in the direction of the right
flank of the Britinh forces, as they had landed from
Horse island. The latter perceiving a considerable
force moving rapidly in this direction, concluded
they bad been falsely inlbrmed of the strength of the
American force, and actually gave up the attack,
through fear of being cut ofl'by the runaways. On
such conlingences depend the laurels of war.

The Government of the United States not only
preaches, but practises economy. The establish-
ments at Sackelt's are on the most moderate scale.
Two regiments of the line, with a proportion of ar-
tillery, for garrison duty, 80 men in (he navy-yard,
and one boat, the Lady of the Lake, in commission :
what dreadful havor.k would this parsimonious go-
vernment make at Kingston !^

The road from Sacketl's to Watertown Forks, at
about three miles from the former, leads on the left
to Brownville, a thriving little village, on the banks
of the Black ri\er, about five miles from its mouth.
It is named from general Brown, wliose property
and residence are here. This gentleman was one
of the few fortunate American generals in the late
war. lie was not bred a military man, but suc-
ceeded, from the command of the militia of the dis-
trict, to the command of the frontier army ; I be-
lieve, chiefly, because the United Slates government
had no regular general at hand, to take the situation.
He is a plain, shrewd man, and carried this charac-

* There wore in rommiKsinn, wlicn I was there, the Itrf^rnt
74, .Montreal, and .star, sloops of war, and Charvillr, a large,
new transport, built slnrc the war, rupahle of transporting the
persons and property of almost all the lake population.

■''^m^-.'f

108

WESTERN CODNTRT OF NEW YORK.

ter into bis military operations. He has also the
merit of having never unnecessarily aggravated the
calamities of war.

From Brownville there is a new road opened,
across the head of Chaumont's bay to Gravelly
Point, opposite Wolfe's island, (about fourteen
miles.)

From Gravelly Point there is a ferry of a mile,, to
the island, and another, of three, from thence to
Kingston. 1 took this route, in company with a
friend, to escape a tedious passage in the packet ;
and happening to laml on Wolfe's island, nearly at
Bun-set, we had to walk, or rather wade across it,
(for 'tis wood and bog from beginning to end, about
seven miles,) in the dark ; a jaunt 1 would recom-
mend no one to repeat, without good reason, at the
same hour. This new road seems intended to open
the Kingston market to the produce of the fertile
country of the Black river. At present a few log-
buts, and patches of burnt timber, are the only marks
cultivation has set on this tract of country. We
passed two or three sportsmen, -sitting by the road-
side, with iheir rifles, watching for deer. W^ater-
town is an elegant village,"^ on the Black river, about
four miles above Brownville. The basis of the soil
is limestone ; a broad rock of which, several acres
in extent, divides the river, just at the town ; the
right branch, after breaking into several smaller falls,
precipitates itself about 30 feet, and continues its
course down a craggy valley ; a paper mill stands
on the left branch, which descends more gradually.
Large masses of rock strew the banks below, as if
severed from above by the action of floods and
rains; several cedar trees have been left so near the
edge, that they have bent down for want of support,
and continue clinging, with their roots uppermost.

* The Amerirans, at least the Yankies, call their towni,
Tillagei ; applying the teruii towoi to what wecaHa township.

.i.r

WDSTERN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

109

A youth, belonging to the village, conducted me
under (he banks, towards the mill, and lesser fall,
to an amphitheutrical range of natural steps, or
benches in ihe rock, with a flat ceiling of limestone,
about fit'leen feet in breadth ; the whole of it abound-
ing in shells.

On the island are numerous fossil impressions of
fish, seemingly of the eel kind, with the spines in
perfect preservation. Higher up the river is a
large cotton mill, beyond which, the banks on both
sides continue to rise boldly, thickly cloathed with
maple, beech, and elm, whose deep shade, waving
over the narrow stream, may probably have given it
its name. VVaferlown contains about 1*200 inhal)it-
ants, chiefly emigrants from New England. 'J'he
bouses are generally of wood, but tastefully finished :
brick, however, is coming fast into use ; and begins
every where to prevail, as soon as experience has
pronounced the soil, or situation of a township to be
capable of any considerable improvement.

Here is a good tavern, which, besides the acci-
dental advantage of coming after the Wapping inns
of Sackett*s, afliirded us the rare luxury of a pri-
vate sitting-room, and a dinner at an English, that
is, at our own hour. We found the church-} nrd
worth a walk, not for the elegance of its monuments,
or classick beauty of the epitaphs, but for its pleas-
ing site, on a rising ground beyond the villa;;e, com-
manding an interesting view of the falls and course of
the river. It is, moreover, neatly kept ; a mark of
respect to its silent tenants, too frequently nevlcclcd
in the States. Within a few miles of Watrrtown
the country rises boldly, presenting a reftesihiiig
contrast of hill and valley, to Ihe flat, heavy woods,
through which we had been labouring from Sarketl's.
The road, turning near Denmark, ascends tlie val-
ley of the Black River by its left bank. The bunks
on either side are lofty, presenting, on the opposite
shore, unbroken and majestick masses of forest : on

WESTEllN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

I :

the western side the soil is good, and coming rapidly
into cultivation. A fe\v pine barrens occasionally
intervene, upon sand mixed with blocks of talkous
granite, rounded, and scattered down the water-
courses.

Indian corn seerns the slaple grain, as it generally
is, on lands newly cleared, but altno«t the whole of
this year's crop has been destroyed by July and
August frosts. On the 28lh of August there was
ice at Kingston Mills, jV ^^ 3» '"ch in thickness,
and this inclemency was general, as far as Carolina.
Here and there, I observed fields that had escap-
ed ; and sometimes a small porlion of a field would
be untouched, while the remainder was as brown, as
if scorched by fire. On examining these exceptions
more narrowly, I was induced to believe, they were
all indebted, for their escape, to a situation more
or less protected fro;n the N. E. winds, which by
sweeping over deserts of ice, and forest, from the
pole, become the chief agents of cold through the
whole continent. The inhabitants, indeed, seemed
more inclined to ascribe these escapes to the proxi-
mity of streams, which had mitigated the frost; but
frequently the bottom of a field had suffered, while
the slope escaped: A valley crop was sometimes cut
off, and a hill-crop uninjured. Betwixt Sacketl's
and Watertown, 1 observed several fields sloping
to the roid, (thit is facing nearly south,) with a
broad belt of timlier, on the crest of the hills be-
hind them, perfectly green and flourishing, while the
whole valley, fro n IMirtinsberg to Utica, down
which the road forms a N. W. funnel, or wind
course, was blighted, except where occasional angles,
or returns, afforded a partial shelter. If these ob-
servations should be correct, it would seem no in-
judicious precaution, in clearing lands, to leave a
sufficient belt of timber to shut out the winds most
likely to prove fatal ; that is, the N. E. and N. W.

WEBTERiV COUNTRY OF NEW TOKK.

Ill

from which quarters unseasonable frosts may always
be expected.

Utica stands on the ri;;ht bank of the Mohawk,
over which it is approached by a covered wooden
bridge, of aome length. The appearance of the
town is highly prepossessing : the streets are spa-
cious; the houses large and well-built, and the stores
(the name given to shops throughout America)* as
well supplied, and as handsomely filled up, as those
of New York or Philadelphia. f There are two ho-
tels, on a large scale ; for one of which, the York
House, I can answer, as being equal in arrangement
and accommodation, to any hotel beyond the Allan-
tick : it is kept by an Englishman from Bath. The
number of inhabitants is reckoned at from 3 to 4000;
they maintain four churches — one Episcopal, one
Presbyterian, and two VVelcli. To judge from the
contents of three large buok-slorcs, I heir literary
taste inclines chiefly towards theology and church
history. I encountered but one effusion of native
genius, in the shape of two verses, under three
grim faces, painted on a tobacconist's sign-board, as
follows : —

" We tliree are engag'd in oue cause ;
" 1 snuffs, I smokes, and 1 ciiaws."

The town is laid out upon a very extensive scale,
of which a small part only is yet completed; but
little doubt is entertained by the inhaiiilanis, that
ten venrs will .accomplish the whole. Fillccn have
not put^l ^iiiice the traveller found here no other trace
of habitation than a solitary log-house, built for the
occasional reception of merchandise, on its way down

'*' May not tliis term be traced to tlie i>liip stores of the
early colonists ?

t 1 should compare ttiem with onr second class of London
ihops, some may even rank with the first.

112

WiiSTERN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

■4

.., ■ i'V

V '

;'!!'■

fr, i

rii

the Mohawk. The overflowing population of New-
Eii;rlan(), fixin;; its exertions on a new, and fertile
soil, has, in these few years, effected this change,
and ifoes on, wurkins; the miracles of industry and
freedom, from the Mohawk to the Missouri.

Utica has ;;reat advantages of situation, indepen-
dent of its soil, being placed nearly at the point of
junction betwixt the waters of the Likes and of the
Atlantick. The Moliawk communicates with Wood
Cre* k, by a canal, from Rome, fifteen miles north
of Utica ; and Wool Creek falls into the Oneida
Lake, which is joined to that of Ontario, by the
0-<»ego river. Should the proposed canal befwixt
BnflTalo and Rome be cut, it will add very considera-
bly to these advantages, by drawing much of the
produce of the Western country in this direction.
The expense of this undertaking is variously esti-
mated at from 6 to 10,000,000 dollars ; and the
expense of carriage at about six dollars per ton.
Commissioners have been appointed to survey the
line of communicaiiou, and the canal ia already traced
on paper. As far, however, as f could understand,
the route of the St. Lawrence would be preferred,
should the policy of our Government incline to give
their commerce ingress and egress on moderate
terms.

With Utica commences that succession of flour-
ishing villages, and settlements, which renders this
tract of country the astonishment of travellers. That
80 targe a portion of the soil should, on an average
period of less than twenty years, be cleared, brought
into cultivation, and have a large population settled
on it, is in itself sufficiently surprising ; but this
feeling is considerably increased, when we consider
the character of elegant opulence with which it
every where smiles on the eye. Each village teems,
like a hive, with activity and enjoyment: the houses,
taken in the mass, are on a large scale, for (except-
ing the few primitive log-huts still surviving) there is

WESTERN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

113

scarcely, one, below the appearance of an opulent
London tradesman's country bux ; nor is tbeir style
of building very unlike these, being generally of
wood, painted while, with green doors and shutters,
and porches, or verandas in front. The face of the
country is beautifully varied ; on the left of the
road, lofty ridges divide the Lake streams from the
head waters of the Chenango, and Orisfkany rivers ;
and again, shooting up towards the north, form the
steep banks of (he Canserage Creek, and the wooded
heights, which einbosuin Onondago Flollow. The
shores of the small lakes are picturesquely formed
in the same manner, and a succession of ridges is
thus continued, till they terminate towards Lake
Ontario, in the Niagara heights, and mingle, on the
south, with the spurs of the Aileganies, round the
sources of the Susqiiehanriah. Tiie timber of this
country is mostly oak, elm, ash, maple, hickory, bass,
hemlock, and butternut.

Betwixt Onondago and S^aneactas, our stage-
parly, which had consisted of several honest farm-
ers, received an addition, in the person of a little
man in grey, who might have well passed for what
he was, a barber, had he not, early in the drive, be-
gun to figure in the character of an apostle ; first of
all* hy pertinent remarks on the efficacy of the in-
ward light ; and secondly, by objurgating the coach-
man for his propbane language, who revenged him-
self, not only by sulky expressions of disbelief in the
apostolick rights of his reprover, but infinitely more
to our mortification, by considerably slackening hia
pace, as if to afford full leisure for our regeneration.
To console us under this misfortune, and as we now
began to ascend a rather long hill, the barber, taking
off his hat, and turning his face to us, said ; *' Gen-
tlemen, if you have no objection " I'll sing you a
hymn ; I have not a good voice for it, but the
hymn is a very fine one, and will shorten the hill."
He began accordingly, and soon induced us to as-

1.1

^t^H" •■

w»^ ■» _^ #^ .J" -'^'

' V

I ' • I

tHH

WESTERN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

sent unanimously to the first part of his proposition,
relative to his voice ; the second seemed by no
means equally convincing; and the third was alto-
gether so dubious, that we determined, on any simi-
lar occasion, to try whether a hill would not be bet-
ter shortened by walking, than singing, up it. He
had visited the chief town of the Onondago In-
dians, in this neighbourhood, and described them as
extremely reserved, averse to communication with
strangers, and clos^^ addicted lo their old forms of
worship. •' They would neither receive a preacher,"
be said, " nor drink spirits ;" facts, which he seem-
ed to consider equally indicative of hardened idola-
try.

Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes, quoting different enu-
merations of the Indian tribes, gives the last esti-
mate, (trom Doilge, in 1779,) of the Onondagoes at
'230. This is much below what they are at present
reckoned at,"*^ in this part of the country.

Skaneactas is pleasantly situated at the head of
the lake from which it is named. We stopped here
for the night, and admired, by a clear moon, the
sloping banks, descending with alternate promonto-
ries of wood, and cultivated land, to its smooth sil-
very waters, whilst here and there rose the tall mast
of some trading schooner, anchoring under the shore.
^ Cayuga, besides its agreeable site, is remarkable
'for a bridge over the head of the Cayuga lake, a
mile in length : it is built on piles, and level ; calcu-
/lating from the time it took to pass it, I should think
-it rather over-rated at a mile ; three-fourths is proba-
bly about the true length. Betwixt Cayuga and Oe-
"neva, is the flourishing little village of Waterloo,
born and christened since the battle. Geneva con-
tains many eleg&nt houses, beautifully placed on the
rising shore, at the head of the Geneva lake ; a situa-

* I have heard the Onoudagoes estimated at 1000.

WESTERN CODNTRT OP NEW YORK.

115

tion indicating that the name was not bestowed at
randuiR.

From Geneva to Canandaigua, a tract of bill and
rale extends for 16 miles, with only two houses. I'
neglected to observe accurately, or enquire whether
the soil was of inferiour quality : should this not be
the case, this note would afford a traveller of m*26,
an exact mean of estimating the growth of its im-
provement in 10 years. Canandaigua is a town of
villas, built on the rising shore of the Canandaigua.
lake, which terminates the picture, at the bottom of
the main street : the lower part of this street is occu-
pied by stores and warehouses, but the upper, to
the length of nearly two miles, consists of villas, or
ornamented cotiages, tastefully finished with colon*
nades, porchen, and verandas, each within its own
garden, or pleasure ground. The prospect down
this long vista to the lake, is charming ', if it has a,
difecl, not to the eye, but to the mind, it arises from
a consideration of the perishable materials with which
these elegant buildings are constructed, impressing
an idea uf instability, like pleasure houses raised for
an occasional festival. A fertile soil, and industrious
population, are, however, bases on which brick will
succeed to wood, and stone to brick.

From Canandiiigiia we turned from the main road
nine miles S. VV. lo visit what is called " the burning
spring,'Mafely discovered. This tract of country it
beautifully un<lulating, and richly cultivated : 1 way
particularly pleased with the style of its clearing,
being neither encumbered with heavy masses of wood^
Dor, like most newly cleared tracts, stript to naked-
ness, but exhibiting the rich, yet light studding of
timber we so much admire in many English counties.
Perhaps the change from a dusty jolting stage to an
open easy waggon, or Dearborn, as they are called
in this State, "^ disposed us lo regard the landscape
with more than usual complacency*

* Tile body and carriage resemble a small waggon, in which
a seat is placed for two persons, on wooden springs. Some-

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116

WESTERN COUNTRY OF NEW YORK.

m ^■

Turning a little from the road, we entered a small,
but thick wood of pine and maple, enclosed within a
narrow ravine, the sleep sides of which, compo»ied of
dark clay-slaie, rise to the height of about 40 feet.

Down this glen, whose width, at its entrance, may
be about 60 yards, trickles a scanty streamlet, wan-
dering from side to side, as scattered rorks, or fallen
treew, aflTord, or deny it passage. We had advanced
on its course about 50 yards, when clor'e nniler the
rocks of the right bank, we perceived a bright red
flame,. burning briskly on its waters. Pieces of light-
ed wood being applied to different adjacent spota, a
space of several yards was immediately in a blaze.
Being informed by our guide, that a repetition of this
phenomenon might be seen higher up the glen, we
scrambled on, for about 100 yards, and directed in
some degree hy a strong smell of sulphur, applied
our match to several places, with the same effect.
The rocky banks here approach so closely, as to
leave little more than a course to the stream, whose
stony channel formed our path : sulphur in several
places oozed from them abundantly. We advanced
about 70 yards further, when we found the glen ter-
minate in a perpendicular rock, about 30 feet high,
overgrown m*L moss, and encumbered with fallen
pine trees, through which the drops, at this dry pe-
riod of the season, scarcely trickled. These fires,
we were told, continue burning unceasingly,, unless
•xtinguished by accident. The phenomenon was
discovered by the casual rolling of some lighted em-
bers from the top of the bank, while it was clearing
for cultivation. In the intensity and duration of the
flame, it probably exceeds any thing of the kind yet
discovered : I could, however, find no traces of a
spring on its whole course : the water on which the

times there are two seats, one behind the other. They ob-
tained the name of Dearborn, from the General's taking the
field in one, ..

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WESTERW COUNTRY OF NEW YORK. 117

first fire was burning, had indeed a stagnant appear-
ance, and probably wasi so, from the failure ut the
current ; but it had no pecidiar taste or t;u>eil, Was of
the ordinary temperature, »n(i but a frw imheti ^\^^*'[^ ; a
few bubldes indicated the paxxatrt; of the inf1ckinaiiibie:)ir
through it : on applying a inatcii to (lie adjacent pail8cf
the dry rock, a monienlai;^ flame played ul<>n^> it aho,
Thene circumstances induced iis lu consider llu bed
of the streamlet, as accidentally affordinv; an outlet
to the inflammable air from below, and the wnier, as
in some degree performing the part of a candle-wick,
by preventing its immediate dispersion into the at-
mosphere.* I should observe, that there are con*
siderable sulphur springs nine miles N. W. o( Canan-
daigua ; and it may perhaps be worth noticing, that
a line drawn through both, would strike,, in a S. S. W.
direction, the warm spring near Huntingdon, in
Pennsylvania; the Berkely medicinal waters on the
Potomac, and thence, following the course of the
mountains, S. W. the hot springs of Bath, and sul-
phur springs in the Allegany.

Rochester is built immediately on the great falls of
the Genesee, about eight miles above its entrance into
Lake Ontario. It is four years since the yankey
axeman began to dispossess the wood nymphs, or ra-
ther the wolves and bears, of this neighbourhood ;
and the town now contains 100 good houses, fu nish- ^
ed with >all the conveniences of life ; se\eral com-
fortable taverns, a large cotton-mill, and ^ome large
corn-mills. Town lots fetch from 500 to 1000 dol-
lars, and are rising in value rapiilly. The whole vil-
lage is as a summer hive, full of life, bustle, and acti-
vity. Its site is grand : the Genesee rushes through
it, like an arrow, over a bed of limestone, and preci-
pitates itself down three ledges of rock, of 93, 30,

* Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes, p. 51, clescril)es what I ima-
gine to be a similar vapour, near the junetioD of tlie Elk river
with the great Kauhawa.

I'i,

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118

WESTERN C0UNTR7 OF VKW TORK<

H :.■

and 76 feet, within the distance of a mile and a half
from (he towh : the two first ledges are of limestone ;
the basiii of the third, as well as the adjacent banks,
is of the same red clay-slate, which eveiy where
forms the bed of the St. Lawrence. This lime-stone
rid^e, whicH cannot but be considered as a continua-
tion of that of Nias^ara, crosses (he river therefore at
the second, and then striking in a S. E. direction, di-
vides the tyaters of the small lakes from those of
Oneida and Ontario. The immediate vicinity of
Rochester is still an imhroken forest, consisting of
oak, hickory, ash, beech, bass, elm, and walnut : there
is a black walnut tree betwixt the town and the great
fall, twenty-four feet in its girth. The wild tenants
of these woods have nituraliy retired before the
sound of cultivation : there are, however, a few
wolves and bears Htill in the neighbourhood ; one of
the latter lately seized a pig close to the town. Ra-
coons, porcupines, squirrels, black and grey, and
foxes, are 9till numerous. The hogs have done good
service in destroying the rattle snakes, which are al-
ready becoming rare. Pigeons, quails, and blackbirds
iibound. At Rochester, (he line of settled country
in (his direction terminates ; from hence to Lewis-
town are BO miles of wilderness, but of wilderness big
with promise.

The (raveller, haldng on the verge of these abori-
gipal shades, is inclined (o pause in (hough(, and re-
consider the interesting scenes through which he h^s
been passing. They are such as reason must ad-
mire, for (hey are the result of in<lustry, temperance,
and freedom, directed by a spirit of sound knowledge,
flowing through all conditions of men, and giving birth
to a state of society, in which (heir is neither pover-
ty, nor oppression, nor complaining. This thought
S leases, in a world so full of wo and bitterness ; it
oes more, it thrills exultingly through the hear( ; and
yet I fancied 8ome(hing wanting: — it was the mellow
touching of (hat great artist Time : — every thing

! I 1 1^

WESTERN COUNTllT OF HEW YORK.

lit

1^1

wears loo much the gloss of newness. — Here are no
memorials of the past, for tlie whole country is o( to-
day ; five, ten, or at the utmost, twenty years ago,
where are now corn-fields, towns and villates, was
one mass of forests Certain pains-taking New-£n-
glanders, having discovered the fertility of the soil,
sal down to clear, till, settle, and improve it, and are
now reaping the just harvest of their labours. — Ima-
gination folds her wing over such a history, and we
feel with Moore,

•* No brigtit remembrance o'er the fancy plays ;
No classifk dream, no star ot'otber days,
Has left tbat visionary glory here.
That relirk of its light so soft and dear,
Which gilds, anti hallotvs e'en the rndext scene,
The humblest shed where genius once has been.'*

I remember visiting the convent of " Our Lady of
the Rock," near Cintra in Portugal. It was founded
by Etnanuel, to commemorate the return of Vasco
de Gama. For three centuries, the matin hymn had
ascended daily from its mountain pinnacle, unmixed
with sound of earth, when the ^tep of the invader si-
lenced and dispersed the ministers of its altar. There
was one old man left ; he was eighty years of age, and
had forsaken the world at the period of the great
earthquake of Lisbon. The effects of a moral con-
vulsion, more <levastating than earthquakes, had
reached him, after fifty years of seclusion. What
remembrances, what reflections crowded within the
walls of this little monastery i My feeble conductor,
as he glided through the forsaken cloister, in the
while hnbit of his order, seemed like an embodied
spirit of ilic [n^it, bearing record of the revolutions of
nature, and ol empires. — But to proceed through the
woods.

The road from Rochester to Lewistown has ob-
tained the appellation of the Ridge road, from the cir-
cumstance of its rimning, generally, on the secondary

■ n

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J-v.

liS0

WESTERN COVNTRT OF NEW YORK.

)

bank of Like Ontario. This bank is a gravelly
riili^e, »*el*loin exceeding 15 feet in height, and is ge-
neiLiily troin five <o eight miles from the present shore.
Tvie (ititnitive liineatone ridge, forming the Niagara
and Gtjiiesee falls, runs parallel to it, but further from
the shore. The disposition of the ground, on the
C'liitdian side of the Si. Lawrence, is exactly simi-
lar, tial has been less spoken of, because inhabited
bv ,t les-t irKpiisitive, and speculating race of people.
S xii'eu niies west of Rochester, there is an Irish
settlt^'ueiit, on Sandy Cieek ; iron is said to be foimd
there. Tiie average viilue of land is fro/n. 10 to 15
dolKiis ail acre, and rines rapidly, as the country set-
tles. One thousand fatnilies of settlers crossed Ro-
che^er bridge in 30 days, during t-he last summer.

T'le soil cannot be c:illed first rate, being general-
ly sandv, witK a mixture of gravel ; it however pro-
dii'^es oak ti nber in great abundance : a tract of 30 or
40 miles alon^ the ridge road, is called, ** Oalc
Orchard." — The average return which the crops
make on the line of the small' lakes, is about J.5 for
on'?; •'! «> U') instances it exceeds this : a gentleman
of Booni^ld town, stated the return of part of his
lands, at 40 for one : in L iwer C \n;ida it seldom ex-
ceeds six or seven. Notwithstanding the bad state
of the road, the stage waggon runs from Rochester to
L^^wistown in two days : this journey is heavy
enoutsh ; it is so netines necessary to alight, and walk
several miles, or suffer a dislocation of limbs, in jolt-
ing over causeways, or logged roads, forrned of pine,
or oak trees laid crossways, without much regard to
up.ifor nitv o^ size, or the comfort of those who may
have to trivel over them. O casionally a wild deer
starts tro n the brink of so ne overshadowed creek,
and, at different intervals, square patches seem cut
out of til; forest, in the centre of which low log-huts
have been constructed, without aid of saw, or plane,
and surrounded by stumps of trees, black with the
6res, kindled for the purpose of clearing. These

• «

/ •

r^*^«

-#* « , 1

WESTERN CODNTRJ OF NEW YORK. 121

fires are stiil usually burning, in some quarter round
the hoiise ; so Ihut Ihe whole f<e(llenienl, belwixt the
remains of former contlagrittions, and the volumes of
blue smoke, still curling through the massive woods,
has a very Cimmerian aspect. While he clears hia
land, the American settler seldom neglects to make
potash : two men will make a ton of it in a month : its
average value may be reckoned at 150 dollars: so
that the land repays him (he value of his labour at
the outset. The stages meet, and put up tor the
night at a log-hut, dignified with the name of an inn,
about 40 miles fro^n Rochester. Our accomiuoda-
tions were of the lowest, but our charges, of the
his^hest rate ; for, as our host sagaciously observed,
" were he not to charge high, how was he over to
build a better house ?" By this rule we were com-
pelled to contribute to posterity. Lcwistown was
one of the frontier villages burnt duiing the war, to
retaliate upon Ihe Americans for Ihe destruction of
Newark. It has been since rebuilt, and all marks of
its devastation eflfaced. It is agreeably situated at
the fool of (he Li neslone Ridge, on the steep bank
of the St. Lawrence, which here rushes with a boil-
ing, eddying torrent, from the Falls to Lake Ontario.
Lewialown, notwithstanding its infancy, and remote
situation, contains several good stores, to which I was
obliged to have recourse for some trifling articles,
during my slay at Q,iieeHston, on the Canadian side ;
particularly for a pair of shoes, when 1 accompanied
a friend to get his le^-pot mended ; QueenKlon afford-
ing neither tinker, nor shoemaker.

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E 122 j

CHAPTER XXI.

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

FORT GEORGE TO FORT ERIE.

Queenston ... 7 Milei.

Bridcewater, or Falls of Niagara 7
ChippRwa 1 t-2

Fort Erie ... 18

33 1 '2

FORT GEORGE TO YORK, BY THE OUTLET OF
BURLINGTON.

'^1

QufWDston
St D.ivid*8
Twelve Mile Creek
Twenty ditto.
Oct. 4, Forty ditto.
Stony Creek
The Outlet
5, Hopkin!<' Inn
1 welve Mile Creek
Siiteen ditto.
Credit River
Etohico River
MocHco River
Huniber River
York

2
12

8
10
11

5 ' .
8

6
4
2

6 1-2

07 1-2

BY ANCASTER AND DUNDAS.

Stony Creek to Ancaiter

Dundai

Bopkioi*! Ion

4
10

AncBRter to the Qraad River, tod In-
dian Scttl«menti. 18

!»'-*'■** A..

"*■ '

*»- .

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

ISO

HThe peninsula included generally betwixt the two
Lakes and the Niagara river, ol)lained, during the
war, and still keep;}, the name of the Niagara Fron-
tier. The Case, or Grand River, the banks of which
are inhabited by the Six Nations, may be considered
its western boundary, and Burlington Bay its limit to
the north. Tlie Lirnesitone Hidge, which we have
observed skirling the road from the Falls of the Ge-
nesee, crosses the Niagara at Qiieenston, and, follow-
ing the direction of the shores of Lake Ontario, as
far as Ancaster, divides this frontier irregularly,
nearly from east to west. At Ancaster it turns in the
direction of the Lake, and having skirted the B ly of
Burlington with a magnificent amphitheatre, strikes
eastward, till it has croitsed the Humber: but whe-
ther it afterwards proceeds in the direction of Kings-
ton, or bends northwardly, I am not able to deter-
mine ; though from distant views, and some other cir-
cumstances, 1 am inclined to believe it takes the for-
mer course. Its height may be averaged generally
at from '200 to '250 feet : it is every where very
steep; in some places nearly perpendicular; and
when viewed from below, being covered with trees to
its summit, ceems stretched across the coimtry, like
a magnificent screen of verdure. The whole frontier
may thus be considered as divided info two plateaux :
the upper, on a level with Lake Erie ; the lower,
sloping from the foot of the ridge to Lake Ontario.
There is a marked (Geological distinction betwixt these
two tracts. Immediately below (^ueenston all traces
of limestone disappear. The river banks, which are
here about seventy feet in height, are composed of
the same red clay-slate which seems generally to con-
stitute the bed of the St. Liiwrence, from hence
downwards, beyond Quebec. The sides of the dif-
ferent creeks round the head of the lake, from
Queenston to York, exhibit similar strata, nor does a
single limestone rock appear to the eastward of the
Ridge ; from thence, however, to Lake £rio, it pre-

it I

124

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

(Vm..

» 'S

. -I

dominates almost exclusively, and constitutes the ba-
sis of a soil, famous (lirout^li Canada for its fertility.
The whole of this frontier h distinguished by a pe-
culiar mildness of climate. Voiney observes, (tom.
i. p. 13".)—

•• A Niagara, bien au deaaus de Montreal, les neiges
sont de deux mois encore |ilu9 courtes que d»ns cette
ville : ce qui est precisement Ic coniraire de la regie g6u€-
rale des niveaux ot>8ervee sur le reste de la cole."

And a^ain, p. 166, he observes the great increase
of cold from Like Erie, west ; "so that in the neigh-
bourhood of Lake St. Clalr, the only fruits which
will ripen are apples and winter pears;" whereas at
Niagara, peaches are raised in such abundance as to
be the common food for hogs during the autumn ;
capsicums, melons, and all sortM of gourds, are also
abundantly raided in the open ground.

M. Voiney is inclined to attribute this dilTerence
of climate, to the greater or less prevalence of the S.
and S. W. winds, which, he says, become less fre-
quent round Lake St. Clair : but in addition to any
general reason of this kind, there is a peculiar circum-
stance in the locale of this frontier, which has proba-
bly a more direct effect. The IS. W. wind, as has
been already observed, is found to be the great
agent of cold through nearly the whole of the Ameri-
can continent. It seems no less certain that it derives
its chilling powers from the unbounded tract of fro-
zen, uncultivated country over which i1 sweeps.
Before, however, it arrives at the Niagara frontier, it
has past diagonally across both Lake Superiour and
Lake Huron, and must therefore have lont some por-
tion of its intense cold in its passage. To prove the
correctness of this observation, it is necessary that
the difference of climate should be co-extensive with
the range of the N. W. wind, under these peculiar
circumstances ; and this seems to be the case. A
line drawn N. W. from York, wouhl cross the nar-
rowest extremity of Ijake Huron, and sweep the

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

125

shore, instead of crossing the expanse, of Lake Supe-
I'iour : now York is known to have longer and severer
wirilcrs than the frontier, (hough hul sixty niih^s N.
VV^. of il. In like manner, a tint thawn i\". W . from
Lake St. Clair, would fall be_yoiin Lake Huron, and
cross bni a small portion of Liike Snperiour ; Ihe
whole country, therefore, from this lake west, niaj
be expected, as Volney observes to be the case, to
feel Hn unmitigated winter : the favoured portion 1} ing
betwixt these (wo points, on both siuts o( Lake
Erie.* Accordingly, a decided prelerence is gi\tn,
by settlers, (o (his neisihbourhood : on our side, (lie
banks of (he Grand Hiver were long since chosen by
the Six Nations for their fertility ; anti from (hence (o
the Thames, «an«l Loiii; Point, are (he finest (arms in
the province. Tiie whole of (he American siile is
rapidly settling, and Erie, built on (he 8i(e of the old
fort, is already a considerable town.

The northern point of the frontier, at the junction
of (he Niagaraf with Lake Onlario, is occupied by
Fort Missisaga, built opposite to (be American Fort,
Niagara, which it is tliought to command : il is star-
shaped, and intended to be faced with s(one, should
Ihe expense be deemed convenient. From hence to
Fort George there is about a mile of flat ground,
mostly occupied by the village of Newark, which
has in great part been rebuilt. The houses are of
wood, and being generally placed on frames, wi(hout
foundations, seem (o give a stranger no more reason
to expect to 6nd them standing when he next travels
that way, than the tents of an Arab, or Ihe booths of
an annual fair. There is one large inn, of a gay ex-
terior ; but being commonly crowded with guests, is
half (inisbed, half furnished, and miserably dirly :

♦ It seems probable ttiat tlie whole of the Genesee country
shares iu this advantage.

t The St. Lawrence, betwixt the two lakes, is couiuonlj
railed the Niagara.

'\ §

i\]

\-.

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y i

126

NIAGARA PR017TIBR.

beds, indeed, are in no more than comfortable abun-
dance ; it being no easy matter to squeeze betwixt
each two of tlie dozen, crowded into a room.

Betwixt Newark and Qiieenston the river is sepa-
rated from the road by a light wood, through which
it breaks on the sight at intervals, frequently with the
top-sails of a schooner gli<iing just above its banks,
and the tufted woods of the American shore beyond.
On the right there is an unbroken succession of luxu-
riant orchards, corn-fields, and farm-houses ; a rare
and interesting sight in Canada. Qiieenston is built
on the river's edge, at the foot of the heights ; it
was embosomed in peach orchards before the war,
but they were all felled, to aid our defensive opera-
tions, so that the vicinity looks bare aiid war-worn.
The heights are still crowned by a redoubt, and the
remains of batteries, raised to defend the passage of
the river. It was near to one of these, the gallant
Sir Isaac Brocke was killed on the 13lh of October,
1812, while with 400 men he gallantly opposed the
landing of 1500 Americans, the whole of whom were
afterwards captured by General Sheaflfe. — But silence
is now on the hill, and from the crumbling field-work,
the stranger's eye dwells with admiration on the
winding course of the Niagara ; the rich adjacent
country ; the opposite fortresses at its mouth ; the
blue expanse of Lake Ontario, with the white build-
ings of York just glimmering on the horizon; and
beyond them a continuation of the same heights od
which he stands, fading indistinctly into the sky.

At Qiieenston I commenced a new, and infinitely
more convenient mode of travelling, viz. in my own
carriage ; this being a light Jersey waggon, (a ma-
chine I have already described, by the name of
a Dearborn,) for which I gave at second band, 130
dollars ; it was consequently above the million in ap-
pearance. My steed, a hardy Canadian, bred in the
neighbourhood, cost me 70 dollars ; and with such

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

127

preparation, a man may travel comfortably from Pe-
nobscot to New Orleans.

It was a fine autumnal morning, (October 4,) when
I put my equipage in motion from Qtieenaton, towards
York, accompanied by a friend, and a favourite
pointer. Ttie road follows the line of the heights,
from which it is separated by an open meadow, stud-
ded with clumps of trees, over many of which the
wild vine had woven natural bowers, but its graceful
festooning is all its merit ; for the grapes are small
and sour. The peculiarity of the Genesee road is
renewed here, or rather it is the same feature con-
tinued, and runs along a second bank, about twenty
feet high, which follows generally the direction of
the ridge, at a distance, varying from a quarter of a
mile to a league. This little elevation gives a pleas-
ing view, to the right of a fertile country, newly re-
deemed from the forest, while the steep, and some-
times perpendicular wall of limestone, wooded to its
summit, magnificently bars the prospect on the left.

Many small streams descend from the mountain to
the lake, and where they have worn their channel
through the second bank, cause pretty sharp dips in
the road. They are all numerically, and vaguely
enough, named by their once reputed distances from
Fort George, as the two, four, six, eight, ten, twelve
Mile Creeks. The village of St. David's stands on
the Four Mile Creek, and seems retiring into a nook
of the mountain. A newspaper is printed here, and
edited with ability : there are also two saddlers*
shops, at one of which I purchased a neat single
harness for thirty dollars, when 1 set up my equipage.
There are several miles of pine forest betwixt St.
David's and the Twelve Mile Creek, which, though
little interesting to an agriculturist, are not, I think,
without a charm for the traveller whose business is
merely to hunt out any combination of forms and
colours, in which either eyes, or fancy may find their
account. Its smooth brown flooring ; straight trunkS;

M 1 i

i ,3

1 !) {( ,

..,\

i, '

' A

— y-—

128

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

li. *

shootiii!; up like eiuiiess vistas of Gotbick columns ;
the vaMltitiij of ilark foliage above them; the univer-
sal siiliiieiis, and even the i-e:!iiiioua fragrance, so pow-
erful oil a i)o! day, cotnbitie lo produce in the mind
a solemn, otid aliuost religious feeling. " Ilia proce-
ritfis sylvae, el secrelum loci, et admiratio uuibrse,
fidem nuaiinis facit.'' There is a scattered hajnlet
and courJ-hoiise round the steep banks of the Twelve
Mile Creek; we stopped (o bait our sleetl and stives
a few miles beyond, at a solitary log hut in the cen-
tre of a forest ; where, besides oats, we foimti evcel-
lent spruce beer made on the spot, and gin^ej bread
cakes, as the sign specified, being underwritten,
*• Cakes and Beer." VVe arrived at the Forty Mde
Creek in the dusk of the evening; the principal
tavern was full, so we went lo the second, where we
were somewhat crossly received by an old Irish land-
lady ; luckily, however, she recovered hei good tem^
per on perceiving us lo be English officers, a species
of animal she had learnt, during the war, to treat
wilh civility : her son had served in the militia, in
token of which he was most obstreperously loyal,
both in speech and song, during the. whole evening.
A fowl was speedily consigned from its slumbers to
the pot, and served up, with the et-ceteras of the tea-
table. The little room, or r.t'jcr closet, in which
we supped, contained a bed for one of us ; the other
was to sleep in the chamber above : an inspection,
however, of the family loft so termed, induced me
to alter this arrangement, by having my bed made
up in the closet, which just held the twn, and stand-
ing room betwixt them. I was also forced to make
another infringement on the customs of the house,
by requesting an additional sheet to the one, usually
deemed sufficient. My friend walked out before
breaktast, and shot, immediately round the house,
several quail, a brace of woodcocks, and a partriJee.
The quails frequent the buck-wheat, at this seasoD)
in great numbers ; we frequeatJy saw bevies of them

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

]2»

by the road side. Tiie American woodcock is small-
er than ours ; ils breast and belly are of a dirty ish
piiik. Tlie partridge is more properly a species of
pheasant, very nearly lesenibiing our hen-pheasant,
both in size and piuinage, and is seldom found but
in woods. On setlin;; oii' to continue our journey,
we took the pointer into tlie waggon, upon which our
host exriaimed " I'll be luuijieii, if you Englishmen
are not fonder of your dogs tium of your wives;" —
nor wonid this be any misplaced degree of aileclion,
were we all wived like mine host. The road contin-
ues to Stony Creek, following, as before, the direc-
tion of the heigiits, with little diversity of landscape,
except such as arises from their occasional windings,
and tlarkly-wooded recesses. At Stony Creek it
breaks otF to the right, low<<rds the lake, and ap-
proaches the outlet of Bnriington-bay by a long neck
of flat deep sand, thinly covered with coarse grass,
and a few bushes and dwarf oaks. There is a pleas-
ing view from the bridge, up the bay to Burlington,
which is built on an elevated peninsula: beyond it
lies another sm^dl lake, aptly denotninated '* Coot's
Paradise," from which the land rises to the ridge,
whose bold sweeping line encloses, with an amphi-
theatre of woods, the little village of Dnndas, and all
the country in that direction. We stopped to bait
at a tavern of a substantial appearance, near the
bridge, and looking to Lake Ontario. Our host,
whose portly figure reflected no disgrace on the ap-
pearance of his house, received us with bustling
importance. ♦' What could we liave to eat ?" —
" Whatever you please," was the reply, he had
every thing in the house — "Well tJien a veal cutlet,
as we are in haste." He went in, and presently re-
turned, protesting his wife was quite out of humour
at our thinking of veal cutlets, when the veal had
been killed a fortnight. — " Well then, we are not
particular, a pork chop will do" — but the pork chop
only increased the storm. — " How could we expect

.VV''*-'*^-

,o'--*.^ ,- •*

^>rt'

130

IflAOARA FRONTIER.

a pork chop when Ihe pork was all salted ?" — " Bodj
of us, mine host," then said {y in the feelings of
Sancho Panza under similar vexations, " what caa
we have ?" — Why we could have bread and cheese,
or butter, if we preferred it; and bread and butter
it was, seasoned however by Bonniface's eulogium
on his own generosity in keeping a tavern, which he
did, (he said,) not for the sake of profit, but because
his feelings would not suffer him to send 4ravellers
from his door, albeit his wife was much vexed at
this benevolence.

A little way from this tavern stands the house built
by our government for the Mohawk chief, Brandt,
in recompense of his services during the American
war. It is a large sash-windowed house, opposite to
the lake, and supcriour in appearance to most houses
in the Province. His wife was living in it at this
time, but his son, with whom I had become acquaint-
ed at Kingston, was at York. He is a fine young
man, of gentlemanly manners, and appearance^ speaks
and writes English agreeably and correctly, and
dresses in the Engli'sh fashion, retaining only the
mocassins of his Indian habit. He served during
the war, among his own people, with the rank and
pay of a Lieutenant, which he still holds.

It took us three hours to accomplish the five miles
of riad, betwixf ihe head of the lake and the main
road, called Duiidas-street, which runs from York
towards Lake Erie, and Amherstsberg. We halted
for the night at Hopkins's inn, where we found all
the cleanliness and comfort a traveller can desire,
with the alloy of but one little accident. Our game
was to be cooked for supper ; a thought flashed us
like lightning, while the preparations were going on
in an outer room ; my friend rushed out, it was too
late; the sacrilege had been committed; the wood-
cocks had been profanely gutted, and were tossed
ignobly, to be stewed in a common pot with the other
birds : their excelleuce, however, though thus bar-

■ * , •
t

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

131

barously degraded, could not be extinguished, and
our appetitrs paid a just tribute to merit iu disguise.

The face of the country, from the head of the
lake to York, is less varied than that of the Niagara
frontier. The thread of settlements is slender, and
frequently interrupted by long tracts of hemlock-
swamp, and pine barrens. The banks of the several
stieams which descend lo the lake, are, like those of
the frontier, bold and steep, exhibiting strata of
crumbling red clay -slate. The river Credit is an
Indian reserve, well stocked with salmon : we found
a family encamped on its banks, drying fish.

There is a good bridge over the rocky bed of the
Humber, and large mills near it. The surface of
the whole country seems flat ; 1 did not observe a
single hill, or inequality, but such as have been evi-
dently formed by streams, descending over a soil
little tenacious ; and as the banks of all these are
very lofty, there is probably a considerable, though
gradual, slope of the whole country down lo the lake,
the shores of which have no elevation worthy of notice.
From the Humber to York is a uniform tract of
sandy pine-barren, unsusceptible of culture ; a change
of feature, probably connected with the ancient his-
tory and revolutions of the lake.

York being the seat of government for the upper
province, is a place of considerable importance in
the eyes of its inhabitants ; to a stranger, however,
it presents little more than about 100 wooden houses,
several of them conveniently, and even elegantly
built, and I think one, or perhaps two, of brick.
The publick buildings were destroyed by the Ameri-
cans ; but as no ruins of them are visible, we must
conclude, either, that the destruction exceeded the
desolation of Jerusalem, or that the loss to the arts
is not quite irreparable. I believe they did not leave
one stone upon another, for they did not find one.
Before the city, a long flat tongue of land runs into the
lake, called Gibraltar Point, probably from being

•I

'^' ■

!■

, , (

132

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

very unlike GibiaUar. York wholly useless, eilber
as a port, or milifary post, would sink info a village,
and the seat of governinenf be transferred to Kini;;s-
ton, but for the influence of those, whose pro-
perty in the place would be depreciated by the
change.

My friend having returned to Queenston by water,
I left York with no companion but my dog, frequ»'nl-
ly repeating, as uiy wain dragged hea\ily over the
logged roads, which cross the swauipy woods round
the iVlocaco and Etobico, the verses of Pelrarca :

" Solo e pen'oso i piil decerti Cainpi
" Vo iniMiiando ft passi taidi, e lenli."

Nothing looks less cheerfid than the hut of a pri-
mitive settler, especially when isolated in the mass of
a dark heavy forest ; yet it is the first glance only
which is unpleasant, the second shews present com-
fort, and progressional improvement. 1 do not re-
member to have seen one of them abandoned, except
for a better house : there are more ruined cottages in
the vicinity of Cork, than in all North America.

A few miles beyond Hopkins's inn, the road as-
cends the HmeHtcme ridge, and sometimes runs so
near the edge of it, that by stepping aside a few
yards, the traveller perceives the level country he
is traversing to be a terrace, about 300 feet above
the level of the lake. I descended by a road, so
precipitouH, as nearly to resemble, at its summit, an
irregular flight of steps, to the village of Dundng,
enclosed within the rich woods and anglc;8 of the
heights : in fact, its territory is so much contracted
by them, that it will admit of little increase of popu-
lation ; and there is about it a stagnant aspect, very
unlike that of its neighbour Ancaster. To reach
Ancaster, the ridge, or mountain, as it is called here,
must ** with toilsome march*' be again ascended. A
itreain gushing from the rocks above, turns several

NIAGARA FRONTIER.

133

mills by the roadside, and forms a pleasing cascade
in (be jrlen near its fuuntain. H:i\ing nionnled the
hei'iht, and entered the village, I nas ajireeably sur-
prised tu Hnd a tavern, superiuur both in size and ap-
p"ar;uire to any thing I bad expected in a \illage so
re.'ijdle from any great line of travelling. On cal'ing
for the osiler, i was quietly answered, •• l»e would
cocio as soun as he had taken his tea ;" so I inanag-
e«l (or myself; not caring, after a fatiguing dav's
joi.rnp\, that my horse shoidd wait his independent
lei>nre, and (he uncertain close of a lea-table con-
versiition. • -

Tl'f landlady, a very obliging woman, apolofjlzed
aftei v^.id^ for this inattention, on the giound ot the
inipossibdity of procuring good servants ; and I men-
tion this incident, one of many similar, to shew that
this free and easy behaviour of the lower clasijcs,
which English travellers so frequently complain of
in the States, and attribute to their R«-publiciin prin-
ciples, is common enough under our own Govern-
ment, whenever the supply of labour is dispropor-
tionate to (he demand for it.

Ancaster has a smiling aspect : new shops and
houses, sjperiour in size, and architecture, to the old,
are building rapidly. Its site is picturesquely grand,
and the neighbourhood thickly spread wi(h improving
farms. Ancaster merits to be the metropolis of
Upper Canada.

A gendemnn, to whom young Brandt had given
me a letter of introduction, having some friend travel-
ling towards the Grand River, I set* ofl, the next
morning after my arrival, for the Indian settlements.

. V

'^«

• If

[ 134 J

CHAPTER XXII.

INDIANS OF THE GRAND RIVER.

r '

. i

The powerful Indian confederacy, known by Ihe
name of iVI.issawooirucs, or Five Nations, oriuitially
occi:pied the whole of the country betwixt the lakes,
and the Allegany ridges, from the sources of the
Ohio to the banks of the HudKon. They were
known, and dreaded by the French Canadians, under
the name of Iroquois. " Each village, or canton,"
writes Lahontan, in 16U I, " contains 14,000 soids, of
whom 1500 bear arms." I41 l7l'i, they received the
Tuscaroras into their confederacy, and made them
the sixth nation. " All the confederated tribes,"
says Morse, " except the Oneidas, and Tusca-
roras, sided with the British in the late war, and
fought against the Americans." In 1779 tiiey were
attacked by general Sullivan, and driven to Niagara ;
their numbers were at this time estimated by Dodge
at 1580. At Niagara, many of them died, *< from
being obliged," saya Morse, " to live on salted pro-
visons." The remainder had the lands round the
Orand River assigned them for their support, by our
government, where they have since resided, with
the Datawares and Missisagafi, joint suflferers in the
same cause; the latter of whom have given their
name to the new fort opposite to Fort Niagara. It
is probable, however, trom the villages of the Six
Nations still to be found within the territory of the
Blate of New York, that, besides, the Oneidas and
Tuscaroras, portions of the other four tribes, in op-

.'«k'

rf \

INDIANS OF THE GRAND RITER.

136

position to the general disposition of their nation, at-
tached themselves to llie American cause : a species
of national disunion, resulting from an excess of in-
dividtial freedom, which has, on ever} occasion of
hostilities, whetted the tomahawk of kindred war-
riours, for the destruction of their own clan.

The Mohauks have always been esteemed the
head of the confederacy. They were strongly at-
tached to the British interest, and first followed Sir
William Johnson in)o Canada, under their chieftain,
" the Monster Brandt." The Monwter had, however,
some good qualities. He accustomed his people tu
the arts of civilized lil'e, and made farmers of them.
He built a church, and translated one of (he Gospels
into the Mohawk language ; for, like Clovis, and
many ot' the early Anglo-Saxon, and Danish Chris-
tians, he contrived to unite much religious zeal with
the practices of natural ferocity. His grave is to
be seen under the walls of his church. 1 have men-
tioned one of his sons : he has also a daui<,hii r living,
who would not disgrace the circles of Eurrpenn
fashion : her face, and person are fine and uracel'ul :
she speaks English, not only correctly, but elegi ntly ;
and has, both in her speech and manners, a softness
approaching tu Orientai languor : she retains so much
of her national d ess as to identify her with her
people, over whom she atfectfl no supciioriiy, but
seema pleased to preser\e all the ties, and duties of
relationship. She held the infant of one of her re-
liitinps at the font, on the Sunday of uiy visit to ihe
church, 'i'hc usual church, and baptismal service
was performed by u Dr. Aaron, an Indian, and an
assistant priest ; the congregation consisted of 60 or
70 persons, male and female : many of the young
men were dressed in the English fashion, but several
of the old warriours cumc with their blankets, folded
over them, like the drapery of a statue , and in
this dress, with a step and n ein of qutrt erergy,
> more forcibly reminded me of the ancient Romans

I'l

.t I

, 71

I i

-■ ♦-

»-*'

INDIANS OK THE GRAND KIVER.

than some other inhabitants of tlijg continent, who
have laid claim to the resemblance. Some of Ihern
wore lar^e silver crosses, medals, and other trinkets,
on tlieir backs and breasts ; and a few had bandeaus,
orna.iiented with feathers. Dr. Aaron, a grey-head-
ed Mohawk, had touched his cheeks anct forehead
with a few (tpots of vermillion, in honour of Sunday :
he wore a surplice, and preached at considerable.
Iens;th ; but his delivery was uniinpassioned, and
mono'onoiis in the extreme. Indian elocpience de-
cays with the peculiar state of society to which it
owed its energy.

The IM (hawk villaa;e stands on a liltle plain, look-
ins; down upon the Grand riv«r ; upon the alluvion
of which the inhabitants raise their crops, chiefly of
Indian corn. Their houses are built of logs, rudely
put together, and exhibiting externally a great ap-
pearance of neglect, and want of comfort. Some few
are in a better condition : the house belonging to
Brandt's family resembles that of a petty English
farmer; Dr. Aaron's was neat and clean. The Doc-
tor, who had been regularly ordained, and spoke very
good English, told me the village had been injured
much by the war, which had put a stop to its im-
provements, and dispersed the inhabitants over the
country. . This is probable enough : the Indians ad-
vance towards civilized life with a forced motion,
and revert to habits of warfare, and wandering, with
a natural rebound. The Cayugas seem to have
made less progresa than the Mohawks, towards do-
mestick accommodation : the fire is still in the middle
of their dwellings : the earth, or a block of wood, suffi-
ces for chair and table ; and planks, arranged round
the walls, like cabin births, form their beds. They
seemed very cheerful, though with little reason; for
their crop of Indian corn, which they were now
drying and husking, ha«i been spoiled by premature
frost, and in comumn with all the other Indians of
the settlement, their only resource against starva-

- A

.--^-A --- <r

ItfDIANS or THB GRAND RIVER.

isr

lent, who
e of Ibern
ir tririkels,
brtiuleaus,
i,iey-li0iitl-
I'oiehead
f Sunday :
msiderable
oned, and
|uence de-
o which it

)lain, look-
le alluvion
, chiefly of
igs, rudely
2;reat ap-
Some few
elon^ing to
;ty Ensslish
The Doc-
ispoke very
en injured
to it8 im-
over the
Indians ad-
]ed motion,
fine:, with
to have
wards do-
lt he middle
ood, suffi-
iged round
Is. They
eason ; for
were now
premature
Indians of
ist starva-

tion, was the Britit»b Commissariat. They confine
themselves lo the cultivation of Indian corn, because
it requires little labour, and of that sort which may
be perloKiied by women ; the consequence is, that
a single Irosly night strikes them with famine, or at
least throws them for support upon the magazine of
Kuigslon. The evil and remedy proceed from the
Same source : an habitual dependance on our bounty
destroys, by rendering needless, all exertion towards
self-support. Bui from the system of Indian tutelage
results the necessity of guardianship, that is, of the
Indian department, through which some thousands
of the publick money are annually filtered : a plentiful
harvest on the Giand River would destroy golden
crops of place and patronage.

I had iitlle opportunity of observing their manners
and character. It may be conjectured that Euro-
pean intercourse is fast obliterating the character-
isiick features of their former social system. Their
increased knowledge of our arts and ^enjoymentSi
has been probably followed by a proportionate in-
crease of wants, and desires, and these, by the
usual accession of their concomitant passions. It is
likely I hey are less brave, less temperate, less saga-
cious, and less ardent in their social affections, than
their woodland ancestors ; but also less cruel and re-
vengefid, more selfish, and more religious. In the
vicinity of their settlements they have the character
of being inoffensive neighbours, and of living peacea-
bly among themselves, except when under the oc-
casional influence of intoxication. Their manners
seemed to me remarkable for nothing so much as for
that quiet seli-poHsession, which constitutes the re-
verse of vulgarity. Their women, before strangers,
are extremely timid : most of those who lived at any
distance from the church, came mounted, with their
husbands walking by their sides ; a sympton:, per-
haps, that the sex i<! rising among them into an Eu-
ropean equality of rights and enjoyments-

138

INDIANS OF THE GRAND RIVER.

The whole of Ihe selilenu riN .ue reckonetl lo fur-
nish ubuut 500 vvariiouis (o i)iir Governiuenl. These,
if not Ihe best, are cerlainly Hit; dt aiest of our aliies :
besides Ihe tiupporl of lliemselves and Iheir faniiies
during war, several Ihousands are expetuied aniMially
in cloathiiig, and nick-nacks, under the name of pre-
sents. Every accidental loss, from failure of crops,
or other disai^lers, Ihev are in the habit of expect-
ing siiould be made good by the liberality of their
"Great Fatlicr," whose means and generosity they
are well disposeti to consider aa unbounded ; an idea
which his agents are little careful torcpiess. During
the late war, they behaved with the caniions courage
of German auxiliaries, evidently consideiuig it their
first interest to spare themselves, their s»'<ond, to
serve their father; a mode of conduct wliich was
nearly resented by the more enterprising warrionrs
of the West, who had taken no the hatchet from a
strong feeliitg of ne-essity, and hatred to the en-
croach;nenls of the AiPeiic^iis. Among these, the
most distinguished was Tecumseh, a Shawnee chief-
tain, whose courage and commanding talents recom-
mended him, early in the war, not only to the notice,
but to tlie personal esteem and admiration of Sir
Isaac Brocke.* Tecumseh perceived the necessity
of a general Indian confederacy, as the only petnia-
nent barrier to the dominion of the Stales. What
he had the genius, to conceive, he had the talents to
execute : eloquence, and address, conr ige, penetra-
tion, and what in an Indian is more i-fMuaikable than
these, undeviating temperance. Under better auH-

* Tl)e Genoral. onr day. presrnttMJ liim witli llm sasli lie had
worn on liis own pi'r";i)ii. Tfcnniseli received it willi jgieat
emotion, and I'e^^tred (lie Gnni'i'ui to eoiisider. that if he re-
frained lioni wearinic i( iiiniself. it was- from an anxiety to j»re-
venl the jeaknisy. wliit-i) siirh nn honour conferred on a young
chieftain, nn^ht eveiir anioiii!: tlie ohier hidian raptnins ; but
that he wonM send it lo liis family, lo lie presui'ved as an eter-
nal meiuoriai uf tiis fallier's friendship.

INDIANS OF THE GRANU RIVER.

139

1
- if

pices, this Amphiciyonirk leajiue inij^ht have been
eif.Mled ; fmt aller llif death of his friend and palrun,
lie fomid fio kifi(frcd sjniil with whorti lo act; but
sfdiiu; ^viih grief and inilijin-itioii, afler upbraiding, in
fh«; bit!t':'(.'sl sarc:!si)>«,* ihc re'rcal of our fon-es,
he en;r,'.if(;d an Aiiiei i<;iii dtfatlunonl of nionitled
ridt'iien, uf^ar flie I\loi.«\ian village, and having, rush-
ed forward, *^ilI;:;I', , fo » iicniini*!!' llieir com manding
oflicer, wluxii l;e tnjsionk i'uv (Jern'ral Harrison, he
fell by a j.islol Im!!. Tin- oMillaiJoiis of the Anieri-
c;ui^ on his dedti'i, afr)rd niu'i i iiiti, luM'anse unintend-
ed, evidence uf liie dread his laicnts had inspired. -{-

y I'll

i' !

TO TlIC MH.MOIIY OF TECl'MSEH.

Teonmspli h'la no <rr:ive. Imt raiilt :< dipt

Tht'lr rav'iiiiiir lit'al;s. .iiu| tlr ink liis slonl heart's lide,

Lcaviiii!; Iiis Imimcss to \vli ten '.\heit' lie dlfd :
His skin t»y Chrislim (oni:t!i:i\\ks \\as 8lrl|»t

Frum the h;'rM ri'srcs^.t — !ni oiciice of pride !
TriiJ{n;»h mt ti\'v llif r.nlli-\\'>im, l;;it in vain

I)e«^inin<r Ih' iin;»i«8ive spirit lo (!< rile, i

Which, notliinjji; (>•• imniKii.il, !.i,o\\s no pain !

* " I eonipari>." vai.l ln'. spr.akinjj oC I'lc aniluir of tliis re-
treat, "niir faMicr !o ;i (ill vvhi'c dc;. wlui, in ilio ^ra^ion of
prosperity <'arri''>> liis tail cri'd on Ims lurk, liiit <lro|)s it be-
twixt his l<'ii;>j, aiiij tliiv at lit" approafli ol' (lanncr." f)n ano-
ther orra^ion. wilt II hy way of pjiciiyin.: Iii rrntdiislranc"* with
a nii'taphor. in ll)i> Imliun nunin'r. our roniniindi r prolt'^'scd
his rt'a(lin<'«s to lay lii»; lion 's liy his side. " I'd! Hit' <lrt<!,," said
the JOi'iry warrioin', " In? lias too nnich regard ("or his eareass, to
lay Ills i)ones any wlicre."

+ Ttio olfioor who shot him was a Colonel Johnson, who had
been ! i.:i>-"'r s('V( rely w(tiui(l<'fl tlio inonicn' hcCorr. Trrnin-
seh Imre a p. r-niiil enmity to (inirral Harrison, to wI;oim lie
attrilMited thr sluii:<;|it(M- of his family ; and had avowed, that
witeii they met, one of them siioiild lie left on the tield.

\ The ritlemen are said to have eut off strips of his skin, to
preserve as trophies.

)

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140

INDIANS OF THE GRAND RIVER.

Might ye torment him to this earth again,
That were an agony : his children's blood
Deiug'd his soul, and, like a fiery flood,

Scorched up his core of being. Then the stain

Of flight was on him, and the wringing thought,
He should oo more the crimson hatchet raise,
Nor drink from kindred lips his song of praise;

So Liberty, he deem'd, with life was cheaply bought.

! tl

C 141 ]

CHAPTER XXIIi.

', m

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

*¥l

To describe the Falls of Niagara, is to lell a thrice-
toid tale,; jet few can have looked on this marvel of
nature with so cold an eye, as not to wish for some
record of the emotions it occasioned. The history
of our sensations, as excited by the siiblimest objects
of art or nature, would be far worthier of perusal,
than the Ie<;end8 of our vanities and passions, of
which history is, for the most part, compounded. It
is little, that such spectacles are innocent : an en-
thusiast in the fine arts has declared, that no one
can contemplate the Apollo Belvidere without feeling
an exaltation of his moral being. The miracles of
nature are not less powerful : to be conversant with
them, is to feel too sensibly the littleness of ordina-
ry pursuits and vulgar gains, to become deeply im-
mersed in their polluted vortex. By frequently gaz-
ing on scenes, in which the power of man is nothing,
the possession of that power becomes an object of
indifference or contempt : we approach the content-
ment of Diogenes, without its cynicalness, and have
nothing to ask of the masters of the world, but that
they would leave us the free use of sky and sun-
shine — a greater boon, indeed, than they are com-
monly disposed to grant.

At Qiicenslon, seven miles from the falls, their
sound, united with the rushing of the river, is dis-
tinctly heard. At the distance of about a mile, a
white cloud hovering over the trees, indicates their
situation : it is not, however, until the road emeiges

. r ^1"^^^

■*^>'

•^•.HUiL^.

142

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

from a close country inio the space of open ground
iiniiietiiately in their vicinity, that the while volumes
of foiiin are seen, ^is if boiliiij^ Uj) from a sulphurous
gulj)h. Ileie a fool-path turns from the roa<l, lo-
uariU a vvoodeil cliiF. The rapiils are beheUI on the
right, rn.shin^, for the sj)ace of a mile, like a lempes-
luou>< sea. A narrow tract descends about 60 t'eet
(loivn the cliif, and continues across a plashy mea-
dow, ihroui^h a copse, encumbered with masses of
liujeslone ; extricated from which, I found myself on
the Tahle Rock, at the very jxiijit where the river
precipitates itself into llie abyss. The rapid molion
of the waters, the sliinnlnj; noise, the mounting
cloudi), almost persuade the slarlleti senses, llia> the
rock itself is lotierini, and on the point of rolling
down info the i!;ulj)!i, which swallows up the mass of
descending waters. 1 bent over It, to mark the
clouds rolling white benealh me, as in an inverled
sky, ilhimined by a most brilliant rainbow, — one of
those features of aol'lness, which Nature delights (o
pencil amid her wildest scenes, tempering her awful-
ncss with beauty, and making her very terrours
lovely.

There is a ladder about half a mile below the Ta-
ble Rock, by which I descentled the clitT, to reach
(he fool of the fall. Mr. Weld has' detailed the im-
pediments and difficulties of this approach, and M.
Volnev confesses they were such as to overcome
his exertions to surmount them ; a (e.w years, how-
ever, have fuade a great change ; the present dan-
gers and difficulties may be easily enumerated. The
first is, the ordinary hazard e\ery one nins, who
goes up, or down a ladder ; this is a very good one
of 30 steps, or about 40 feet ; frotn thence the path
is a rou^h one, over the fragments and masses of
rock, which have gradually crumbled, or been forci-
bly riven, from the cliff, aid which cover a broad
declining space, from its bae to (he river brink.
The only risk in this part of the pilgrimage, is that

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

143

of a broken shin frofn a false step. The path grows
siiiouth as i( adviini'.eH to (he fall, »u that the iiiitii-
videtj attention may be isiven to this i(n|)Osing spec-
tacle. 1 tcit a sen!>alion of aue as 1 drew Dear it,
like that caused by the first cannon on the morning
of bailie. 1 passed from sunshine into gloom and
tempest : the spray beat down in a heavy rain ; a
violent wind rushed fiom behind the sheet of water:
it was ditiiciiit to respire, and lor a moment, it seem-
ed temerity to encounter the convulsive workings of
the elements, and intrude into the dark dwelliiii^ra
of their power : but the danger is in appearance only ;
it is possible to penelnile but a {myi steps behind the
curtain and in liiese few, there is no hazard ; the
footing is good, and the space sufficiently broad and
free : there is not even a necessity for a gniile, two
eyes ;>iuply suOIce to point out all that is to be seen
or avouled. During my first visit, there were two
young American Udies on the same errand, who
were drenchcil, as well as myself, in the cloud of
spray. \\\ my opinion, more is lost than gained, by
this tacilily. 'J'lie eil'tct |)rouuced upon us, by any
object of admiration, is increased by the <lifFiculties
of approaching it : the imagination does not snflVr to
be thrown away, a single particle of all that has been
expended in the pursuit : lovers and pilgrims know
this ; bring a Baplisl's he<:«l, or even the wood of
the true cross, to the belie\er's tloor, they will soon
lose all power o\er his fancy. Objects, indeed, of
real bcauly or subliuilly, are privileged ne\er whol-
ly to fail of their effect, whatever may be the disad-
vantages imder which they are seen ; still it may be,
and is, weakened l>y them. Are the feelings excited
by the Elgin marbles, when we view theoi, elbowed
by groups of simpering fashionables, and gaping
tradesmen, the same with those they must have
awakened in the bosom of the lonely traveller, sitting
before the fane of Theseus ? — For Niagara, I fore-
see that in a few years travellers will find a finger

!.;

. \\

; I

144

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

F" >M^

posf, " To (he Falls' Tea Gardens," wifh cakes and
refreshments, set out on the Table Rock.

The name of "the Horse shoe," hitherto given to
the lrir<^er Fall, is no longer applicable : it has be-
come an acute angle. M. Volney and Mr. Weld
have observed this change.* An officer, who bad
been stationed in the neighbourhood thirty years,
pointed out to me the alteration which had taken
place in the centre of the Fall, which he estimated
at about eighteen feet in the thirty years. M. Vol-
ney, speaking of the limestone ridge at Queen-ifon,
observes, " Pour quiconque examine avec alietilion
loutea les circonstances de ce local, il devient evi-
dent que c'est ici que la chute a d'abord commence,
ct que c'est en sciunl, pour ainsi dire, les banes dii
rocher que le fleuve a creu->S le ravin, et recule
d'a^e en a!;e sa breche iusq'au lieu ou est mainten-
ant la cascade." It does not seem that any objec-
tion lies against this theory, for admitting that the
present bed of the Fall wears away, and recedes, as
it evidently does, there is no reason to set any other
limit to the commencement of this action, than the
commencement of the impediment by which it is
caused. It confirms this hypothesis, that from
Q,iieenston to the foot of the Falls there are no
islands, though at, and above them, there are many.
Ujjon this supposition, then, and from the rough
estimate hitherto formed, some calculation may be
made, approximating to the probable length of time
the river has employed in thus wearing its way back-
wards. The distance is about six (uiles ; and as the
substance to be worn away is hornogeneous, the pro-
gress would be tolerably uniform in uniform spaces
of time : the result, however, startles our chronology.

♦ IjRS plus vieiix hahltaiis dii pays, comme I'ohuerve M. Weld, se
rapellent avoir vii la mtancle plus avanrSo de pliisieiirs pas. Un officier
An;loi«i, stitionnS depuJ!) trente ans au Fort GriS, liii cita den faitx positifg,
proiivant (|iie dcs I'ocliers, alors exiatang, avaient etd minds et engloutii. —
ClimatD'Anierique, T. i. p. lift,

THE FALLS' OF NIAGARA.

145^

1 cakes and

M. Volnej denominates the limestone of this fron-
tier " primitifj ou chrystallisi.** It however con-
tains organick remains, as well as that of the Gene-
see country, but not in such abundance as the bed
of Lake Erie. He considers it as resting "sur del
bancs de scbiste bleu, que contiennent une forte
dose de soulfre." I observed sulphur oozing abun-
dantly from the cliff immediately adjacent to, and
within the spray of the Fall.''^

The lesser F'all, on the American side, had a
considerable appearance of elevation above the bed
of the greater : upon inquiry, I found there was a
difference of fifteen feet between them, caused pro-
bably by the greater weight of water descending
down the latter; the effect of the scene is increased
by this circumstance.

The island which divides the Falls has been fre-
quently visited of late years, nor, odd as it may
seem, is it an adventure of much hazard. Examin-
ing the map, it will be seen, that at the point, at
which the rapids commence, the current separates,
and is drawn on either side, towards the two Falls,
while the centre of the stream, being in the straight
line of the island, descends towards it without any
violent attraction ; and down this still water Ameri-
can boats, well manned, and provided with poles to
secure them from the action of the two currents, have
frequently dropt, to the Island. Since, however,
the small military post the Americans occupied, on
their side of the river, has been abandoned, there
are no boats in the neighbourhood, equal to the at-
tempt.

The whiilpool is abouf^half-way betwixt Queens-
ton and Niagara. The river, boiling, and eddying
from the Falls, enters a circular basin, round which
the lofty cliff sweeps like an antique w%)'» overgrown

* 1 found gypsum incorporated with the limestoae, in seve-
ral parts of tlie cliff.

t- . ' .»

146

.'j»-

VHE FALL8 OF NIA04RA.

'f/

.rfi

III, i'

with treea at its base, and amid its clefts and crevi-
ces. The cause of the whirlpool is readily per-
ceived by the spectator, who looks down, and ob-
serves that the stream, being compelled into this
basin, by the direction of its channel, and unable to
ei^cape with equal celerity, is forced to gain time by
revolving within its circumference.^

The river widens above the Falls. The banks
are low and (he adjoining country flat. The bridge
over the Chippewa is protected by a tile de pont :
the river in properly a long stagnant creek, or drain,
to Canby Marsh, which covers all the interiour of
the frontier, from the Grand River. — Fort Erie has
a war-worn aspect, decayed both in strength and
dignity. A rag upon a crooked pole, was the ordy
banner, floating on the evening breeze : the walls
were tenanijess. The original building was a fortifi-
ed stone barrack : four small bastions were com-
menced before the war, and one of them partly faced,
but without curtainsi. An Officer, who stood gover-
nour when hostilities comtnenced, finding these works
too scattered and unconnected for his small garri-
son, drew an interiour entrenchment round the bar-
rack, which he declared to be impregnable, and as
he prudently avoided bringing his declaration to a
trial, it may still hold good. When the Americans
defended the fort under Qeneral Brown, they con
verted each of the bastions into a detached redoubt
raised a cavalier battery on one of them, and con
nected them with abatlis : It was the accidental ex
plosion of one of these, during our assault, in Sept
1814, that saved their array in its entrenched camp,
on Snake Hill, adjoining the fort.f Snake Hill is

.'^
* The flpKt cause or thiit elliow in the roiirHe ot* the river,
wan |irnbal)ly tlic oppoNition of sorou part of the cliff ouUi«
Dorfliern ttido of tho basin, harder than tlie reil.

f Geonral Brown h»<t admitted the exploitinii to have hcea
arcid<>nial : it tnoii plaon alter oiu' troops had pot««HNion of the
bastion most probalily by a wad's enloriug tho powder inaga-
sine benoatb itt

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.

i4f

a sand-hillock, on the edge of the lake, and proves
how easy it is, to be a hill in a flat country. The
baain of Lake Erie is limestone, most inhospitable to
eels. It abounds in organick remains, corals, reeds,
shells, &c., differing in this respect, from the rock
round Niagara, in which the impression of a shell
is rarelj to be discovered.

Crossing the Niagara to Black Hock, by a ferrj
three-fourths of a mile over, 1 again entered t^e ter-
ritory of the United States.

(VI

.1"*

, it-:.

^1,

l-se of tlie river,
thechfTou tbe

•

|i to have tiren
loi^nifiinn of the
puwdcr inaga-

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^ . • t *

*.t • «I s

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I 148 ]

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■■>♦■■■-

i ».-'iV -

CHAPTER XXIV.

T'-',. ..i-t'X :

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA. ^

)' 4

Oct. 19, Buffalo

2 Milei. N. York

WilliatDBville

Porter's Idd

ZO, Batavia

21, Caledonia

23, \von '

7 , "

Danville

34, Cauisteo

25, Bath

26, Painted Post

27, Newtown or Elmira

' 38, Tyoga Point

20 Peaoiylvauia

30, Wywll

Le Fevre's Inn

8 ,

31, Wyalusiog

Tunkhanock

Nov. 1, Wilkesbarre

4, Wrnirg's Inn

Pnkono Mountain

5, Wind G«p

16 1-2

Nazareth

6, Bethlehem

7, Seller's an

8, Philadelphia

378 12

OvvvkhO was among the frontier villages burnt dur-
ing the war ; not a house was left standing. It is now
not merely a flourishing village, but a considerable
town, with shops and hotels, which might any where
be called handsome, and in this part of the country,
asfoMiDhing. Its situation is highly advantageous,
forming the extremity of the new line of settled
country already described, and communicating by
the Lakes with the Western States of the Union, and

BL&eK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA. 140

■II

,-.,;*fi A, J'

N. York.

rlvauirf

1 burnt dur-
It 18 now
Lniiderable
I any where
le country,
rantageous,
]of settled
I'lcating by
Fnioni and

the two Canadas. The American side of Lake
£ri6 is aiiio settling fast, and Erie is already a thriv-
ing (own. The celerity with which Buflalo has risen
from its ashes, indicates the juvenile spirit of life and
increase, that so eminently distinguishes the Ameri-
can population from (he exhausted tribes of our he-
misphere, which seem, in many countries, scarcely
to preserve vitiality sufficient to bear up against the
evils of inequality and bad governmment. '' The
hot breath of war" is scarcely felt here, or, like
their own forest conflar,ia(ions, is succeeded by a
livelier verdure, and richer produce.

I found (he country as I went on, (hickly setded,'*^
but dull, and uniform in feature, being an entire flat.
The autumn had been dry, ajntl water was so scarce
in many places, that my horse was sometimes very
grudgingly served with wha( had been fetched seve-
ral miles. This is an evil not rncommon in newly
fi'^ttled districts: draining follows clearing; the creeks,
»'.' ''>ri<rer fed by (he swamps, disencumbered aUo of
;. ''' . unks of trees, and other substances by which
ti. '' tvaters were in a great degree stayed, easily
run dry in summer, and soon fail altogether.

The principal inn at Batavia is large, and yet upon
an economical principle, for one roof covers hotel,
prison, court-house, and assembly room. I observed
several prisoners at (he bars of a lower room, and in-
quired of an old German about the house, what might
generally be their olTences. " They had been most
of them speculating too much." It seemed hard
thus to punish men for the ingenious use of their wits,
so I begged a fur(her explanation : they had been
rur<j;ii)s£ bank-notes. This delicate definition remind-
ed me of a farmer at Watertown, with whom we fell
upon the subjects of English deserters. " We don't
want them here," said he ; " they are loo familiar

* It was a "dreary wildernetit'* irhen Mr. Moore trnrflllr4l
through it.

.'/

laO

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

14!. 1'iil

« f

.i^i -a

by half." Now, though f coiild readily believe of
these my coiinlrynien, that bishfiilnei*8 had no part
in them, it see ned an oil J ^roind ot* compiainl for a
Yarikev; no I repeited so iletfiin;; »vonderin«;ly, "too
faniliar!" " Aye," rejoined he, "ihey steal every
thifijr thev can lav their hadds upon." There is an
Ejiiscojial Ciiiirch biiildinn here by subscription ;
th"i «Mnt of which is to be "20,000 dollars. Mv host
olfdred me a " Stirrnp C.ip," at partin;;, a civility
not nniHiial !n the iinlravelled parts, both of the
Slates, and C'inada.

Allan's Creek, betwixt Batavia and Caledonia,
see ns, (Voin the banks still remaiiling, at some distufice
fro II Its present channel, to have been once a rjiisi-
deible river, as was its neighbour, the stream of Ca-
ledo lia, by the same token.

Ciledonia is a smdl, bnt flonrishini; villiire, and
has a handsome inn, with vory ro nforiable acco n no-
dations : close to the road is a sheet of water, cover-
ins; seven or ai^ht acres, called the Great Sp'in;;,
fro n which a clear and rapid stream descends, throtii^h
a pleasini; vallev, into Allan's Creek, before the lat-
ter nniles with the Oenesee River. Its banks are
adorned with natural ]^— ^ves and copses, in which I
observed the candleberry mvrtle in ajreat abundance ;
but a more interesting; si:;ht is the quantity of orga-
nick re nains, with which the blocks of limestone,
scattered throus;h the iow <rround round it, are en-
crusted, as if with* rude sculpture : they are mixed
with nodules of s;ranite, and present innumerable
forms both of shells and aqu itick plants : the shells
were frequently attache I to stones, and imbedded in
■ind, evincing their co uparaiively late deposition.
This district has been settled fifteen years ; cleared
lanri is worth 50 dollars per acre ; uncleared about
1.0 dollars. Farmers reckon upon a return in crops
of about twenty-five for one.

I halted a d ly at Caledonii to rest my horse, and
shoot partridges, and the neit morning went on to

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

151

Avon, on the right bank of the Genesee, to break-
fast : here let me record the fame of the lillle red-
bricked taiern, on the right hand side, near the en-
trance of the village (I lorgel the sign.) In fitteen
nimiifes afier my arri\al I sat down to a breakfast
vvhich d Parisian gourmand might have envied nie. —
By \Ue. bye, the Americans excel in breakfasts,
though (heir dinners are naught. — At A\on 1 quilled
ihf main road, and following the right bank of the
Genesee, beean, soon after crpssing the si ream of
Ijake Coiiiesiis, to fall in with tiie spurs of the Alle-
gany Ritlges. The scenery here improves, and tlie
roH<l«* pi'oporiionably deteriorate : wiltl even losa\age-
nesH, tnounlain heights branch thickly across the
coiifitry, with no seeming order or tl reclion, like so
many giganlick mole-hills. 1'lie only level ^.round is
the narrow alluvion of the streams, which the road is,
as often as pos:«ible, lau<j!;ht lo follow ; when it cannot
do so, it atTords a very practical illustration of the upg
and downs of lite ; yet is this travellinu, prefci^ble,
perhaps in both instances, lo the unitormiiy uiiich
causes no fatigue, and excites no emotion. If the
lieight be toilsome, the prospect is pleasant of the
deep glens, ami shades benealli, and of the blue hills
smiling in distant sunshine. The valley i» ollen en-
cumbered with rocks, and its road deep and plashy ;
but lh«; white broken torrent rushes agreeably through
it : its verdure is deep and various, or its cultivation
clieerful. The Genesee River seems to bound the
liineslone region in this direction. The All«\gany
Ridges, less rugged and prccipilious than granite
mountains, are b(»ldcr and more irregular than the
limestone heighls, which have a nearer resemblance
to long terraces of masonry. M. Volney cunsidem
the Freestone Mountains, called the Kalskill, which
fall npor the Hudson below Albany, as bounding the
granilick region towards the East, and consliluliiig
(he basi«i of the wi.ole mountain coun'ry from thence
to the Apalachian Ridges, and Georgia, fixing I he

j I J

152

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

^11

li I

sources of (he Susquehanna, and the Genesee Coun-
try as (he points of contact betwixt it and the Lime-
stone Country. M. Guillemard observes (M. Yol-
ney, t. i. p. 57.)

*' Le sol de foiite la haute Soskoii&na est mll£ de
schistes, de pierrea de geiss, de schorl, de feld-spath, coup^
d'une foule de sillous peu 6lev^es, qui montent par gradini
jusqu'a L'Allegueny ; la domine le gr^s."

The nrooJs round the Genesee abound in large
black squirrels, some of which are as big as a small
cat ; they are destructive to grain, and are therefore
keenly pursued by sportsmen, who frequently make
parties, and celebrate the destruction of several
thousands at one chase : their flesh is considered a de-
licacy : they migrate ai difTerent seasons, and have
the credit of ingeniously ferrying themselves over
rivers, by using a piece of bark for a raft, and their
tails for sails. Olaus Wormius tells us the same story
of the Norwegian squirrels,^ and Linnnus authorizes
the belief, so I suppose it to be an indigenous talent,
though it would not cost much to a builder of hypo-
theses to infer from (hence the derivation of Ameri-
can squirrels from an European slock.

The road from Danville crosses a creek, winds
for three miles up a mountain steep, heavily timber-
ed, and continues through swampy forests to Canis-
teo. Chse to the little village of Arkport the
Tyoga branch of the Susquehanna rises, in a mea-
dow by the road side. Arkport is named from the
low flat boats called arks, which are built there, and
used on the Tyoga, and Susquehanna, whose head-
waters have depth for no other craft, and for (his,
during the rainy season only. It may be supposed
that so rugged a country is very thinly settled : vil-
lages are separaled by a di8(ance of fif(een or (wenty
miles, with few intermediate cottages. BetwiKt Ca-

''' " Traiiatat hnsc bostiola per anines exi^uo ligno caudam
hat>ens pro veto expansatn :" nur can it he otliorwise ; " iVon
eoiin ei natiira alicessum couit natandi raodum."— Ixriii. 14.

% '

f >

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

153

ee Coiin-
he Lime-
(M. Vol-

ath, couj^ti
|)ar gratlioB

d in large
as a Hmall
B therefore
gntly make
of several
dered a de-
, and have
ielves over
f, and Iheir
same story
i authorizes
nous talent,
er of hypo-
I of Aineri-

eek, windg
\\y timber-
Its to Canis-
rkport the
in a mea-
[l from the
there, and
hose liead-
id for this,
supposed
icttled : vil-
or twenty
elwi&t Ca-

ligno caudam
Vise ; "Non
.IzTiii. 14

Nisteo and Bath there are not more than a dozen,
though improveuieiits are going on. The principal
settlemenlii are to be found on the narrow alluvions
of the creeks and rivers ; but even there the soil is
of an inferiour quality. The roads are bad enough,
but 1 was surprised to see them deep and niry,
having experienced but one wet day during the au-
tumn. I found, however, that this calculation would
not apply to the mountains, or to the country east of
them, where there had been heavy falls of rain : a
circumstance easily account' I for by considering
that th6 clouds which come impregnated with mois-
ture from the Atlantick, are frequently arrested by
the mountains, and disgorged, without crossing into
the Western country.

Bath is built on the alluvion of the Conhocto
Creek, and embosomed in wild nuninlains : the prin-
cipal houses are placed round the three sides of a
square, or green, and being most of them new, whitf,
and tastefully finished, have a lively appearance,
agreeably contrasted with the dark mountain scene-
ry which opens on the fourth side. It was court
day when 1 arrived, and as the court was held at
the tavern to which I had been recommended, I
found it in a bustle, but 1 was not the less comforta-
bly accommodated in a well-furnished carpeted par-
lour, in which dinner was neatly and expeditiously
served.

Amone; the persons at the court-meeting was the
Militia (iiM)rral, M'Clure, who brought on his coun-
trymen the (l(;struction of their frontier, by hia
wanton burning of Newark. He !:eeps a store in
Bath, and succeeded to the command which he dis-
graced, either by accident, or through the want of a
fitter man. He had lately been cast in HOO dollars
damages at Canandaigna, in an action brought by an
inhabitant of Newark, lor the destruction of lii^ pro-
perty. It would be judging the Americans unfairly
to suppose they had regarded his conduct with in-

111

, !

154

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

1 ^.

\.»

difference : for some time after if, he scarcely dared
(o show himself in his own neighbourhood ; and
being on one occasion recognized at a publick auc-
tion-rnart in Philadelphia, he was hooted out of the
room.

Many affect to consider the American government
as confederate with its oflScer in the burning of
Newark. It must be observed, first of all, that Mr.
M'Glure's conduct was disavowed ; and secondly,
that his instructions have been produced, directing
him to " destroy the village, in case it should be ne-
cessary for the defence of the fort." Every one
acquainted with the rules of war, or even with the
rules of common sense, knows such instructions to
be perfectly correct ; yet the calumny has still held
its ground ; as if the American government, how-
ever willing in principle, had really any interest to
commence a system of desolation, which could not
but be, as it was, heavily retaliated upon inhabitants,
as innocent and defenceless as those of Newark.
" But jealous minds will not be answered thus." A
lurking hostility to republicanism has been too fre-
quently suffereil to colour our views of the conduct
of America. Had I believed many Englishmen in
Canada, I should have believed there were neither
honour, faith, nor honesty in the United Slates; and
that the whole of their military conduct was as odious
for its cruelty, as ridiculous fur its blunders ; yet as
far as I could sift out the truth, even on our side of
the Boundary Line, there was, as in all wars, some-
thing to be praised, and much to be blamed on the
part of both. Each nation may charge the other
with many acts of devastation, and perhaps some
unnecessary bloodshed ; but each could also call to
mind, amid many deeds of gallantry, traits of high
feelinv, and generous humanity. Should the reverse
side of (he picture be alone retain^^d in sight? —
Perish^ the records of glory, and warlike achieve-

BLACK ROCK TO PIIILAnELPHI A.

!.!>:>

inent, iflliey serve but to perpetuate national aninio-
giiies, and whet ttie sworil lor a future conlesi !

There is a road from Baih by the shores of the
Crooked Lake to Jerusaleu), the village of the Elect
Luly, Jemima Wilkinson, and her sect of Friends.
A story is current in this part of the country, that
having signitied her intention of proving the truth of
her mission, by walkin.; on the waters, and assembled
her followers to witness the miracle, she asked (hem
whether they truly believed in her ability to per-
form it, to which they unanimously replieil, *' I hey
did ;" " Then," said she " the performance of it is
unnecessary ;" and so, as may be believed, they
went their ways without it.

The road from Bath to Painted Post, follows the
alluvion of the Conhocio branch of the T^oga, and
though stony is tolerably level; it crosses the Creek
twice in the last six miles. The mountains have a
slaty appearance, with horizontal strata. I was dis-
appointed at Painted Post to find the post gone ;
broken down, or rotted, within these few years. It
was, as may be supposed, an Indian memorial, either
of triumphj or death, or of both. A post is not
much, but, in this instance it was a record of the
past, a memorial of, (may I be pardoned the expres-
sion,) the heroick ages of America!"^

When I was at Ancaster I was shown the grave
of an Indian, among the woods near the head of the
stream : It was co\ered with boards, and a pole
erected at each end, on which a kind of dance was
rudely painted with vermillion. The relati\es of
the deceased brought offerings to it daily during
their stay in the neighbourhood ; a vitality of sorrow
truly savage. • ,

* M. Voloey, wiiliout meaning to speak their praise, dis-
covers a wondcrtii! reKomlilance betwixt tiio Imliaiis, and
th(! herofs of Homer and hophucies. Vid. " Eclaircissemens
sur let Sauvages," t. 11. p. 502.

156

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

iV:"

I-

¥ 'n I

New Town, or Elmira, ([ put down both the
names, for I went six miles about, from not know-
ing it ha<l the happiness to have two,) is pleasantly
situated on the edge of the Tyoga : its appearance,
however, is far from gay, for few of the houses are
painted, and wooden buildings, without this precau-
tion, soon acquire a dingy decayed appearance.
But New Town has better claims than mere good
looks, to my grateful remembrance. Owing to some
accidental delays, in the course of my journey, I
found by the time of my arrival here, that I had
not cash sufficient to carry me to Philadelphia, nor
even much farther than New Town : I had bills on
Philadelphia, and applied to a respectable store-
keeper, that is, tradesman, of the village, to cash me
one ; the amount, however, was beyond any remit-
tance he had occasion to make, but he immediately
ofTered me whatever sum I might require for my
journey, with no better security than my word, for
its repay tent at Philadelphia ; he even insisted on
my taking more than I mentioned as sufficient. I
do not believe this trait of liberdity would surprise
an American, for no one in the Stales, to whom I
mentioned it, seemed to consider it as more than
any stranger of respectable appearance might have
looked for, in simiiaf circumstances ; but it might
well surprise an English traveller, who had been
told, as 1 had, that the Americans never failed to
cheat and insult every Englishman who travelled
through their country, especially if they knew him
to be an officer : this latter particular they never
failed to inform themselves of, for they are by no
means bashful in inquiries ; but if the discovery ope-
rated in any way upon their behaviour, it was
rather to my advantage, nor did I meet with a
single instance of incivility betwixt Canada and
Charleston, except at the Shenandoah Point, from
a drunken English deserter. — My testimony, in this
particular, will certainly not invalidate the complaints

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

157

3o(h the
ot know-
ileasantly
pearaiice,
ouses are
J precau-
pearance.
lere good
g to Houie
aiirney, I
hat I had
;1phia, nor
d bilU on
ble store-
cash me
my remit-
iinediately
re for my
word, for
insisted on
jfficient. I
d surprise
o whom I
more than
night have
t it might
had been
failed to
I travelled
knew him
ley never
ire by no
ivery ope-
r, it was
let with a
nada and
'oint, from
ly, in this
omplaintB

of many other travellers, who, I doubt not, have fre-
quently enroiMitered rude treatment, and quite as
frequently deserved it ; but it will at least prove the
possibility' of traversing (lie Uniled Stales without
insult or interruption, and even of being occasionally
surprised by liberality and kindneos.
■ The village of Tyoga Point is placed, as its name
denotes, at the continence of the Tyoga and eastern
branch of llie Susquehanna, which comes down from
the Kutskill mouni:<ins. From the heights round the
village, the eye commands majestick views of these
two rivers, descending in opposite directions be-
twixt their mountain shores, and pursuing their united
course through a similar tract of wild and pictur-
esque country. These hills and forests abound in
deer, nor are wolves and bears uncommon. The
village itself is singularly neat, containing several
houses finished with elegance, and is altogether what
the mind and eye desire in a country village : the
tavern answers to the rest, being clean, cheap, and
kept by a very civil landlady. I halted here a day,
to kill pheasants, and climb the mountains on the
right bank of the Tyoga, in search of prospects, and
ferrying over the Susquehanna, the next morning
continued my route along its left bank, through a
desert of rocks and forest, to Le Fevre's inn, being
a log-hut, so denominated. — And how came Le
Fevre in it ?

During the disturbed period of the French revo-
lution, a number of emigrarls, several of them men
of rank and property, purchased a tract of land on
the Scioto, for the purpose of founding a " City of
Refuge." In this purchase they were misled, either
by their own want of information, or by the knavery
of their agents ; and finding a settlement on the
Scioto impracticable, they removed to Chemingo,
on the Tyoga. — Here again they were not more
fortunate ; the scanty alluvion round the fool of
these rocky mountains, is little likely to repay hardi>

,»'!

l;|

158

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

H '^

er ciillivafora ; and for the third time, this wander*
ing colony tran:«ported itself to the ri^ht bank of the
Susquehanna, betwixt VVysall and Wyalusing, and
astonished the inhabitants by buildinc man^-uindow-
ed villas, and cutting roads across the mountains to
hunt deer and foxes. They named their village
French-town, and considering its barren site, il is
probable they must have shortly resoUed on a fourth
pilgrimage, when change of circumstances enabled
them to return to France, leaving their aiiy halls (o
be tenanted by crows, and wondered :il hv all the
farmers in the neighbourhood. One faini!^», how-
ever remained behind, and crossing the river, to
avoid starvation, set up this litte inn. The na'iie of
this family is Le Fevre ; not Sterne's Le Fevre ;
neither withered greatness, nor heart-broken merit, —
yet one whose present situation seems no less for-
cibly contrasted with their former habits of life, t'ian
that of King Joseph himself. The keeper of a
Caffi Anirlaise d. Paris, set down among the wild-
est regions of the Alleghany, removed miles from
any thing resembling n village ; and, to judge from
the rude country round him, almost berond the ken
of civilized life: — yet well may he, (or rather his
wife,) answer, "no matter where, so I be still the
fiame, and what I should be;'* for so it was r the
gay courtesy of France was flouri'^hing as cheerily
on this desol.ite spot, as in its native atmosphere of
Versailles. Madame was turned of fifty by her
look, short, strongly pock-marked, with a snub nose
flattened to her face ; altogether so little of a beauty,
that she passed in the neighbourhood, that is, with-
in the adjacent twenty miles, for a strong likeness
to a toothless superannuated Poodle, belonging to
a tavern on the roa«I ; but her manner was, **/o«f a
fait, a la Parisienne.** Dinner was in prepara-
tion, within a few minutes after my arrival, and her
own history narrated during the process. 1 asked
her if she had no wish to return to her native coun-

■ /;

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

1^9

try: "Ah no," she replied, "one's coiinlry is al-
ways where one can live:" she was as conlenlcd as
it' she had been cradled in (lie desjart. During din-
ner, IVIonsienr came in, and having quielly made his
bow, waH deposiled in the chimney corner, whence
be was again in due time passively transferred to
bed : it was evident he had acquired little knowledge
of the " rights of man," since his domestication in a
repidtiick : in tart, neither he nor his wife nnder-
stood a word of English : but she dti^pised the Ameri-
cans for their ignorance of etiquette, and of the legi-
timate mode of fricaseeing a chicken. The mother's
prejudices, however, did not seem to have eic^ended
to her family, whicli consisted of two danihtf &, one
of whom had married an American fiurut (, ofj the
opposite side of the river ; whilst the other, an itiler-
esting sprightly lass of seventeen, filled tli^ ofill/ es
of interpreter, chainbermnid, and waiter, fo tlie hotel ;
milked the cows, and looked after the pig. mii] poui-
try. In all this, she was the soni of !;i'vcfy ; pier<-
sure seemed to gush from the fonnt.fi.j of i.» r natu-
ral spirit, and she was evidently bepJ .s^itj-fied v>\ih
herself, when she saw others sali!>ried ; a L^^Irikisis;
contrast fo American giils in the same s;<hpre t-i'
life. By these the traveller is received v, iih rlondy
Bulkiness, or at least with phlegmalick iiidiirL'ienre;
their attendance is as mec hanically coM as ."ups-
have been that of the domchiit k statues o5 Viilcaii's
household : one would say water circulated tu l^esi*
veins instead of blood. True it is, this frost ot (he
spiiils checks the plant steiniiij;ly indigenous in the
female busoai, — vanit) ; but woman's vanity ]■< Mie
parent of so much that is lovelies! in ')cr, ihaJ il h
ill exchanged for the unnflccted rusticity of vulgar
life. Do }ou inquire of these damsels fo;- lefrosh-
ment, the odds are, that you are answered by a kind
of monosyllabick grunt, or some siicl delicate pbia so
as " Mother, the man wants to aai ;" — and the eter-
nal process of frying beefstakrs commences. This
unengaging macner see;:n!:j ihe characteristic k of the

.»!

;vi,', ■f^— '■-'^fcM'N, '

160

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADRLPMI A^

\>l

'11

:\.

■it.

lower classes of American females. Tbc married
women are, I think, a sli-ide sulkier than the single,
but the difference is very trifling. The men, al-
thou(;h liltle chargeable with an excess of gayety,
have more vivacity of manner than the women ; and
as there are few of them who are not well-informed,
(at least on local subjects,) they have altogether
more advantage over their fair moiietis, in the mere
agrfiinens of society, than men usually possess.

The banks of i'.a Susquehanna have no great va-
riety of scenery, though they frequer.tly present
grauil features. The space betwixt the mountains
and the river, is often so narrow, that it barely sufli-
ces for one carriage, and in many places the road,
for a mile or two, seems to have been hewn from the
rock : shoultl two carriages meet in one of these pas-
ses, it is difficult to imagine by what contrivance
they could be extricated ; the population of this tract
of country is, however, so scanty, that a dilemma of
this kind would be a phenomenon in travelling. Oc-
casionally round the creeks, there is some tolerable
land, and two or three pleasant villages ; among
which, Wyalusing may, perhaps, image out what
Wyoming was; but it cannot be said that the deer
" unhunled seeks his woods and wilderness again ;'*
— for I heard a cry of hounds as I stopped to
breakfast, and the game was swimming the river.
The face of the landscape is no where bare : moun-
tain and vale are alike cloathed with pine, and dwarf
or scrub oak ; the swamp lands aic covered with
hemlock, and the bottoms of the woods with the
rhododendron. I was informed that land in this

Cart of the country, though naturally very poor, had
een so much improved of late by the use of gyp-
sum, that its value was raised from five to fifteen
dollars per acre.

Wilkesbarre is a neat town, regularly laid out on
the left bank of the Susipiehanna. Its locality is
determined bv the direction of one of the Allegany
ridges, which receaei from the courie of (he river

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

161

narried

1 single,

len, al-

gayety,

?n ; and

iformed,

logethev

he mere

ma.

rreat va-
present

loiintains

ely suffi-

he road,

from the

liese paa-

ntrivance

thiii tract.

ilemma of

ins;. Oc-
tulerable
; amon^

out what

the deer

again ','* •

pped to

he river.

|e : moiin-
md dwarf
!red with
with the
in this
>oor, had
of gyp-
[o fifteen

id out on
)caUty i«
[Allegany
1 (he river

a few miles above the (ow

n, and curvmg

s. w.

encloses a seiniciic.iilar plot of land, tuuurds the
centre of which it is buiil. Its neighbuurhuud
abounds in cual.^ The piU are about a mile N. E.
of ihe lowii. They lie uniler s(ia!a of a soft clay-
slate, containing impressions of ferns, oak leaves, and
other vegetables usu.illy found in such situations.
Tiie coal has a briglii, poli^siied a|ipearani'e ; its
strata are slightly angulni ; I hey routain iron, pyrites,
and salt-pe(re, and are traversed by veins of char-
coal. The theory of the foimation of coal, from de-
cayed tinii)er, is slrennitliened by a view of ttie site
of these pits. The ri\er A lia\ing descended S.
E. suddenly changes its diicction jusi above the
town, and runs S. \V. as if f'orceil lo this deviadoUi
by the mountain B. Now, as all the land round the
town, including these pits, is an alluvion, raiseil but
a few feet above the present hed of tlu,* river, it is
nt''ural lo suppovie that its anrient ciurent must have
deposileii the liuiber, and oilier substances it brought
with it, in the angle foiiii«il liy Ihe coiir»e oi the
ridge B, i. e, in (he neighbourhood of the coal

* OrUio kiod called i^luico riial.
21

]62

BLACK ROCK TO PUiLADELPHI A.

The town iself has a quiet, rural aspect, from the
frequent separation of its streets and houses, by grass
fields and gardens. It confains a neat church, allot-
ted to the alternate use of Episcopalians and Presby-
terians. The Town Hall was occupie<l on the Sun-
day of rny visit by the Methodists, ro whom a shoe-
maker was expounding the doclrine of life, with
great slrenffth of lungs, and an energy which frequent-
ly persuades by seeming persuaded.

Wilkesbarre is classic k gioiunl to an English-
man: it is built on the site of Wyoming: a small
mound is pointed out near the river, on which stood
the Fort; and the incursion of the Indian?^, when
most of the inhabitants fell in an unsuccessful battl,«,
is still remembered. Some few escaped by swim-
ming the river, and (led naked through the woods foi*
sever?! days, till they reached the nearest settle-
ment; — and this is all the record of Albert an«l Ger-
trude. The lover of poetry, who would half realize
the fictions of the muse, on the spot which she has (ilo-
rified with the creations of her fancy, cannot help
regretting that the bard should have helped, in some
degree, to destroy the illusion, by introducing in hil
descriptions features of scenery as foreign to Penn-
sylvania, as the sweetly-meditstive Gertrude herself,
who, had she been as solid a reality as any bnxoia
lass of Wilkesbarre, must have been content to lack
the bright plumage of the *' Flamingo," the ** palm
trees* shade," the "aloes," and even the roaring
waterfall, for the falls near Wilkesbarre are ledges of
rock, merely sufficient to break the current. — Yet
Wyoming shall outlive the name and splendour of
many a bloiited, burgess-fattening city, "and still
look green in song."

Sweet Wyoming, though none he left to (ell
The beauty of lliy day* to future men.

How Itlest when peareful Albert ruPd thy slen,
And Gertrude was thy flowV, yet ■halt Ihou dwell,

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADBLPHI A. 163

And bloom through nges, for with charm and spell r
Wreaths <»(' imm«)rtal liri<;htiieaB have been flun<!;,
Gililiiig thy ruin — ami a jjifJed shell

Thy l-tle of destjlutiun halh outrun;;
With melodie?. on uhirh the soul reposes,
Like eastern l)ulliuls oVr Caslunerian rt»^^'8; —
Ami liriglil eyes hnve wept uVrlhee, am! shall weep.
Till nature has grown ruthless in all hi.irla,
And pity, angel-plumM. to heav'n departs:
For thou in IVeedoin's huruUig field didst reap
A deadty harveal, therefore shall ihy sleep
Be hallowM, and thy name, a star oVr glory's steep.

At WilkeHliarre the road quits the Susquehanna,
and a»rendin<; the ridge i have mentioned, (marked in
the m:ip'4 as tnoiint Ararat,) croHses several heads
of the Lehigh, through heavy lorestH, and hemlock
Bwuinps, very sparingly interHpecMed with settlements.
There in a neat inn, kept liy an Engliithman of the
name of Wraj;, about seventeen miles from Wilkes-
barre ; I slopped there to liine, and could have wish-
ed thai the stage had been long enongh for a ilay'8
jonrnev, for I Wt.i much pleased with the looks of
Mr. Wr.ig's Imuse, and more with those of iiis
daughter, on whose cheek " the rose of England
bioo'iieil" luxuriantly, anti more sweetly in my eye,
for being a rose of my «)wn rounlry. My regret was
not diu)inis|ied wlier) I reached by moonlight the end of
niv day's travel, on the summit of the Pokono Monn-
^ tain, whose gradual decli\ilies are bare of timber,
''more like an English heath than an American moun-
tain. The wretchetl auberge was undergoing a refit,
which leit but one dirty little tap.room to sit in, and
a half-finislied rhamber, through which the night
breezes sanz cheeri'y : the fare was bad in pro|>orlion,
and the landlady's temper in iiniHon with the whole;
though an old croney of the house whispered me in
the morning, that it was beyond comparison the best
tavern on the road-

164

BLACK ROCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

The Pukunu Muiintain is ramous among tlie sports-
men and epicures o( Pliiladeipliia lor its groni>e :
like all the Alleu;liany ridges, it is gleepe^t on the
eastern side. I parsed ihe Bine Ritlge at the stu-
pendous fissure of the Wind Gap,* where the moun-
tain seems forcibly broken thioup,h, and is strewed
with the ruin of rorks. There is a similar aperture
some miles N. K. called the Water Cap; which af-
fords a passage to Ihe Dtlaware. All the piiiicipal
rivers of the States, which rise in the Alleghaiiies,
pass through similar apertures, a peculiarity 1 had
afterwards an opporliinily of obseiving in the passage
of the Potomac. Betwixt the Blue Hidge and the
Lehigh the road traverses the Limestone Valley, de-
scribed by Volney, t. 1. p. tit'., but which he seems
erroneously to circumscribe by the Blue Ridge, and
the North Mountain, whereas it lies betwixt the
Blue Ridge and the Lehigh Ridge, as he himself in-
dicates by the names ot Easton, Bethlehem, and Naza-
reth, within its limit. The two latter are Moravian
settlements : there is a thiid about a mile and a half
from Nazareth, which, though small, exceeds both
the others, in my opinion, in the calm and pensive
beauty of ils-«ppearurce. The houses, like all with-
in its valley, are built of limestone : they are all
upon a similar plan, and have their window-frames,
doors, &c. painted of a fawn-colour : before each
are planted weeping willows, \ihose luxuriant shade
seems to shut out worldly glare, and throws an air of
Dioiiastick repose over the whole \illnge.

Mr. Morse, in his description of Peiinsylvanin. has
given a detailed account of the Mora\ian seltlementg ;
and the inimitable pen of Mad. de Siael has reveal-
ed, and perhaiis ado:ned, the spirit of llieir institu-
tions. (l)e L Allemagne, t. iii. p. iv. c. li. Du culte
des t^^^es Moraves.") I transcribe a single pas-
sage, for the faithful picture it presents:

* Granular^quartx scvuis llio prcduniiualing rock at this gap.

BLACK KOCK TO PHILADELPHIA.

165

e sports-

gfoiise :

t on the

tl.e 9t»i-

\\v. iiioun-

gtiewed

aprrtiire

whirl* af-

pi iiicipal

leghanies,

iiy 1 had

le pussace

and the
alley, de-
he seems
liilge, and
iwixt Ihe
liin^elf io-
aiul Naza-
Moraviaii
and a half
eeds both
tl pensive
.e all with-
I'y are all

w-fiainea,
fore each
lant shade
Is an air of

ivania, hs.s
lltlenit'i'ts;
lias reveal-

ir inatitu-
l)n cnlte

lingle pas-

»t this gap.

' " Les m<ii»ons i^t leg riifs sont «l'»ne proprele iiarfnite : -
FiP3 l".inm»*s, l(»iil«'8 ii,tl»il!eet( ^\v nieine, cachfiM li-ur clie-
veiix, el C(>i;j;iHMit Icur '£te avec iiii riilian doiil Uacuuleurs
iii(li(|tiprit si I'lles eont niiirieos, filial on veuves : le» hotn-
ine^ 8 tilt veins de brim, a peu I'res euiiime les Quakers.
IJiie iiuhislrie mercantile lea oecupe presipje tuus ; mais
on ireiileiid |iiia le moiiulre bruit dana la villatre. Oharun
travaille aver rt inilarit^ et traii(|uiHitC' ; et Taction interi-
«Mire (Its sentiments religieux appaise toute autre inouve-
nient."

1 had not an opportunity of witnessing their church
service, wlijch is, as she descrihex, celebrated with
singin-4, and ii band of wind irit-ilritiiM-nts, but I at-
tended a meeting which the inhabitantji of Beilile-
h^-tn co/imionl^ hoUl every evening, in an a|)artiiient
aitjoining the churcli, lor the joint pinpo?es of
atnnscfiienl and de\otii)n. The vvomen «(.«' ranged
at one end ot the room, the men af the o'l er: tlieir
bishop presidetl ; — but let me not riii«!«'.id by the
term ; he had not so niiicli as a wig. wheievvitli to
support his Fipisropal dignity, Imt was an old man,
drest in the plainest manner, with u coiinienance sin-
gularly niihl and placid: Pan! Vcroiif -e might liave
chosen him for Ihe " beloved disciple," only a linic ad-
Tanced in years — he gave out Ihe psaln>, and led Mie
quire : the singing was alternately in (jierman and liti-
glish, and I have still Ihe good Bishop's voice in my
ear, when he gave out,

" O delightful, past expreasion,
" My Kedeemcr died lor me."

It is an Idle question, and yet one likely enough
to obtrude itself, "what wonUI become of the vvoild
were all its inhabitants Moraviaiis ?" The breath of
the passions would have i cn^ed to stir ihe ocean of
life: urls of general utility noiild proceed viilhoiit
the check of many of our liabils : disease would gra-
dually > ield to scicnlifick improveinenls, and the
temperate enjoymrnt of plenty : alxo, as inornl and
prudential reslrainls would have (heir full eil'ecl, Ihe

I 1

.' '/

166

BLACK ROCK OF PHILADELPHIA.

ImiJ

'ill

IP'

increase of population would be constantly kept
within the lin)ils of subsistence. A period will
therefore have arrived, when late marriages must be
universal : the most active portion of man's life
must in consequence be spent in leisure. — By what
objects will his mental energies in this situation be
excited ? Our hypothesis excludes ambition, glory
and interest; necessity excludes love; the former
would destroy the principles of a society founded
on equality and peace ; the early indulgence of the
latter, would poison them with want. Shall the
energies of mind be stilled, to prevent their abuse?
they will be replaced by physical instincts, and
brutal force. There is one object of speculation
left in unison with Moravian principles, — religion ;
but in a cotnmunity in which all men occupied their
thoughts on one subject, would they all think alika on
it? or could their dilTerences of opinion coalesce with
the general tranquillity ? History is not silent on
this point: that of the Greek empire intorms us
what would be the destiny of a nation of theologians :
So that if a succession of miracles were to establish
Moravianism, by destroving all principles of our na-
ture hostile to its foundation, it would require ano-
ther succession of miracles to preserve it from sui-
cide.

The Lehigh mountain is the last of the Alleghany
ridges ; the country is thenceforth level, fertile, and
(hickly inhabited by steady Germans, in broad hats,
and purple breeches, whose houses and villages have
the antique fashion of a Flemish landscape. Ger-
man is so generally spoken, that the news|ii>pers, and
publick notices, are all in that language. The roads
arc of a deep miry clay, through which the country
waggons, with their long fat teams, plod on seeming-
ly at their ease, but it fareil very ditlerenlly with my
light vehicle. The approach to Philadelphia is an-
nounced by a good turnpike roatl. German-Town is
a large suburb to the city, and the traveller here
feels himself within the precincts of a populous and
long eatabliifhed capital.

» .

! r

( U7 ]

t^IlAFTER XXV.

•♦,, 1

I'H'I-VDrLPHlA.
"hiladklphi \ is q« ^. I

^'"•ecurai ,.„„,,,,,;. rni?"r'"'"^'' of f<" ■"> «-

"verse. La-t-e .o„l h , ''"' '^"'" »« for ll,e

"b-urdi,^ ,„ ,,„,,• I'j^" ''"f I'een as singular an
'ave bu It (he l,oi„r. '^^'^ "ookcd, as to

»l.ould be more i... p^,', ^,;"^"'"''-- ""iformiiv
•lie sireers of Plj.lad:^ ?■ "'"" ' ""ilioear. All

"•"-7 of .l.en,, as S S;';'2 "f"-"-. ^ -he na.es^o
''■•J <l.eir .>lva„ oris „ "J;,,!- f"""'- ''"•^•"'<. &0. re-
poplars, wiia „!,;,,, J,, '. " "' '^^ '•»;" o' l-ombardv
«vol,.„on in favour „7 e'e ti; ''' '""' » «e™nd
iouse, are chara.rerized bv '' , ' '" '•"'"'o
"ep. and window sill, of ^ *=""' ""'ne,, ; ,be
"»;ble. and i,„ve 1, ' 1T2."\ W"' "'^ "< ^'4
The slreel, are c.ref,,! y 'U ,,'"' ^"'T ""' <'°«"
?»"». Khicb are pa,ed\rirT, ■■ 1' "'" ""^ "-^ fool-
'•»' >i»ld in displ.^^ o ,!,„ e of";''- , '■'- "'"P" do

"»' of «l.e Bapli . bo Z"';'^^" »« '«»< l.ul plain ;

168

PHILADELPHIA.

,*.'

y f

of winp;^, separated by an lonick colonnade, which
form- (lin enliance, and is crowned by Iwo cupolas;
the whole is of hriik * the diameter of the rotunda la
HO r<'(;», the wiMs arc .OO feet from the 'jiirouiid, and
ail! sdrmountnd by three steps before the swell of the
do'ne, wtii'-li rises at an ani^Ie of Ijo. The building
is <;;d<:iil,itetl lo liohl 2, .000 persons.

The Masonick ilill is an awkward co;nbination of
brlcii and marble, in the Gulhick style ; (hal ii^, plen-
tifully " tricked and frounced" with niches, pinna-
cles, and battlements, and a spire {50 fet'l hi^h. One
would tliink it were easy to catch the spirit of Goth-
ick architecture, which seems to be a combination of
luxuriant decoration with imposin;; grandejr ; no ef-
fori perfectly succeeds, which separates these quali-
ties ; there is, perhaps, besides the nieetinsi; tojijelher
of the awful and (he graceful, an association of other
feelnij!;s, connected with their union ; it siippu-^es a
great exertion of power in cost and labour, anti ifleas
of power approxitn.ite to the sublitne. Giand«'ur of
desi<rn, however unadorned, and ioiprrfect in (he
means of doint; justice to its coiict^piiotts, nnist still
retain the inspirini; preros;alivc of genius, but to lavish
Golhick ornaments on a piginy building, is like over-
whehning a child with the armour of Guy, earl of
Warwick.

The Philadelphia bank is in the same ridicnioiis
taste with the iVI isoniok Hall, bating the absurdity of
the spire : but the United Stales and Pennsylvania
binks are (he fniest buildings in the city : the first
has a handso.ue portico, with Corinthian colutnns of
white marble, as is the front of the building. The
Pennsylvania bank is a miniature of (he temple of
Minerva at Athens, and is the purest specimen of
architccure in the Slates : the whole building is of
marble ; the front extends M feet, and the entire depth
of the building, including the front and back porlh'os,
is ViF} feet : the shafts of the columns are three feet
in diameter. The limplicity of one portico is soine-

ti.L

e, which
cupolas ;
ot inula is
iinti, and
ell of the
I building

nation of
I is, plen-
's, pirina-
ilj. One
"of Golh-
jination of
IV ; no f;f-.
lese qnali-
Qf tojreiher
m ol other
iH»pu'«e8 a

and ideas
und«'Ui' of
d in the
, must still

( folnvish
ike over-

y, earl of

ridiculous
surdity of
insylvania
the first
)luinns of
ig. The
temple of
ciinen of
ling 18 of
ire depth
porticoSy
hree feet
is some-

PHILAPBLPHIA.

169

^flLit injured by windows, but the whole effect is
Sighly pleasing, and Mr. Latrobe deserves the grati-
tude of the city for his taste in the selection of a mo-
del. which cannot but have a favourable effect on the
style of future edifices. An Athenian from the
shades could object little to the design of this build-
ing, nor would he greatly err as to the appiopiiaiion
of what he would naturally deem a temple ; so it is ;
the deity alone is changed, Mammon lor Minerva :
each passion of our nature has, m its turn, been *' lord
of the aitcendant ;" and temples, castles, banks, have
in succession been consecrated by the superstition,
ambition, and avarice of mankind.

The State-house is a plain brick buiMin*;, finished
in 1735, at the cost of 6000/. The noblest leroMec-
tions of America are attached to it. The Con<zress
sat in it during the greater part of the war, and the
Declaration of Independence was read from its steps,
July 4th, 1776. The Federal Convention also sal in
it, in 1787. It is now occupied by the supreme and
district courts below, and r< ale*s uiusaeum above.
This musaeum contains a collection of preserved
birds and animals, minerals, Indian arms and dresses,
and a long line of ill-favoured portraits, by a Mr.
Rembrandt Peale ;^ but the most interesting object
is an entire skeleton of the Mammoth, or great Mas-
todo.i, discovered by the exertions ot Mr Peale, the
founder and proprietor of the musaeum, in the Slate
of New York, in 1801. His son published an a< count
of it in Loniion the same year ; 1 extract the princi-
pal diuicnsious :

Feet. indiM.

Height over the shoulders.

Do. over the hips,

* B7 the bye, thin nominal union of the illu«trioii!« dead witli
the ignoble living, i% very bad taste. In Gvorgn 'rnwn, lliure
is a perfumer called Uomulus Uijjgs, and we have a Juuiuu Bru-
tus Booth.

-s -«.

•KL

Feet.

luchfj.

6 12

irU PHILAUELPHIA.

Length t'rom the chin to the rump,
From the poiat of the tusks to the

end of the tail, following the

curve,
In a straight line,
Width of the hips and body.
Length of the longest vertebra,
Of the longest rib,
Of the tusks or horns,
Circumlerence of one tooth,
Weiiiht of {he same, 4 lb. 10 oz.
Whole skeleton weighs lOUU lb.

This enormous animal fabrick is placed at the end
of one of- the apartmenis, wilii several tigures of men
near it, proliably to mark the contrast of their dimen-
sions. The human stature is, indeed, pigmean be-
side it, but there is another, and still more striking
point, under which it may be considered. It moved
and had it<) bein.;, when all that is of human institu-
tion was not ; for though tiie situation and state in
which the bones were discovered, may lead ns to con-
clude, that the catastrophe by which its race was
destroyed, was more recent than those revolutions of
Nature which have disturbed the frame-work of the
globe, it must si ill have been suflSciently sudden and
violent to destroy all the living species of the earth.
The wall-like ridges of the Alleghanie», with the gaps
or fissures, through which the principal rivers de-
scend at ris;ht angles to them, afford strong support
to the hypothesis of M. Volney, that these ridges
once inclosed lakes, which have been drained by the
escape of the present rivers. This drain might, in-
deed, have been affected by the gradual wearing
through of their mountain breaches, as Lake Erie
may, in the course of ages, be drained by the action
of the Falls of Niagara ; in this case, however, no
entire species of animals would have been involved
in destruction ; each would have retired from the
gradual swelling of the waters in its neighbourhood :

t.
5

PHILADELPHIA.

on the contrary, should this revolution have been the
eiTect of some sudden natural convulsion, such a
shock would have been sufilcieiit to destroy man and
his works, supposing the tinman race to have tlien
existed, and to have given that impulsion to the At-
lantick, which incrusied in polar ice the Mammoth
of Siberia.

§ 2. — THE FINE ARTS.

Philadelphia contains an Academy of the Fine
Arts, founded in liM).'> by voluntary contribution,
and soon after incorporated by the Legislature. It
has a handsome building, containing rounis for draw-
ing and publick exhibitions. In the hall of statuary,
besides numerous casts, are several pleasing pieces
of Italian sculpture, particularly two Bacchantes.
The picture-gallery contains several excellent pic-
tures of (he old masters, and a large collection of the
modern. It is injudicious to place them side by
lide. American artists seem to think that to paint
largely is to paint well : much good colour and can-
vass are thereby lost.

It is not surprising that painting should iiare made
inch feeble progress, not only in America, but in
modern Europe generally ; feeble, with reference to
the perfection of the art, for of correct and graceful

Eainting there is no want ; wealth will create so far ;
ut the sublime is the production of enthusiasm only,
and our social system contains no qualities by which
an artist's enthusiasm may be either inspired, or re-
warded. It is true that many painters are correct-
ly said to be enthusiastically fond of their profes*
sion, as many readers are of poetry, who woidd not
therefore make excellent poets : the mind, compelled
to one occupation, will commonly become disgusted
or devoted : habit engenders attachment ; this is
professional enthusiasm. But there is another kind,

172

PHILADELPHIA.

, r

hfv'"

of a more expansive and intellectual character; oc-
cu|)ying ilsjelf, not upon the profession, but upon the
Bubjecls of the profession ; and this is even more es-
sential than the former, in as niurh as the ablest
painter can go no further than tht perfect delineation
of his own conceptions ; so that it these be cold or
inadequate, the pertormance must sufier in the same
proportion. Here seenis to be the parting pomi be-
twixt ancient and modern artists. We have no re-
mains of Grecian painting, but the analogy of sculp-
ture will illustrate my remark. The Greek slatuary
inigbt easily persuade himself that the divine image
he had cloathed with majesty and beauty, would not
only be an object of adoration to his fellow citizens,
but might even become the material dwelling-place
of the Deity, whose lineafients he had worthily ex-
pressed : while the heroes, who were indebted to the
gratitude of their countrymen, for a seat among the
immortals, must be contented to owe to his chisel the
form and features of their divinized existence. If
the ancients deified human nature, their artists and
poets were the high-priests of the apotheosis.

The great burst of talent with which painting has
adorned the Christian world, shewed itself in Italy :
the Christian mythology supplied the place of the
gods of Paganism ; saints and martyrs tliat of Her-
cules and Theseus ; but the strength of enthusiasm
was the same, and perhaps more nearly simiLr than
the Protestant inhabitants of Northern Europe may
be able readily to imagine. It is a well known anec-
dote, that painters frequently partook of the sacra-
ment before they began an altar-piece: their finest
paintings were, in fact, religious offerings ; and they
who patronized and applauded, as well as they who
painted, had alike kindled the altars of their taste
with the fires of religious zeal. The spiritualized
creed of Protestantism disembodied the whole Po-
pish mythology: credulity was forced into new
channels, and the artist who should attempt to re-

, /

'(:

PHILADELPHIA.

17a

icter; oc-
iipon the
I more es-
he ablest
ielinealion
3e cold or
the same
point be-
ive no re-
' of atulp"
L slaluary
ine image
would not
« citizens,
lling-place
irthil> ex-
ited to the
among the
chisel the
itence. If
irtists and
is.

tinting has
in Italy :
ace of the
of Her-
nthusiasm
niiLr than
rope may
>wn anec-
he sacra-
leir finest
and they
they who
eir taste
itualized
hole Po-
nto new
t to re-

animate the iiifas^es of a belief no longer fashionable,
would feel his spirit chilled in the uns^enial atmos-
phere ; and Kpeediiy learn to exchan^ie the delinea>
tiun of Madounuii, (whoime virgin purit)' some are
irreverent enough (o smile at, and almost ail are con-
tent coldly to assent to,) for the more lucrative em-
pioyinent of flattering living beauty : hence it is
that our exhibitions blaze with ladies of quality,
officers of hussars, gentlemen in arm-chairs, and
other equally

" Vain attempts to g\re a deathless lot
" To names by Nature bora to be forgot."

It is true that there is enough of religion at pre-
sent in America, but it is, for the most part, of that
sour Calvinistick kind which would damn St. Cecilia
for a "pianoforte playing strumpet," and put the
whole celestial hierarchy into snuff-coloured suits,
and high bibs and tuckers.

Nor are the publick and political events of mo-
dern times less unpropilious to the artist's pencil :
the Athenian, or Roman painters addrest their per-
formances to the whole civilized world, for what
was there of civilization which had not bowed to tiie
arts or arras of these nations ? Their gods were the
gods of the universe : their publick trunsactions de-
cided the fate of all nations, not barbarians. The
modern painter must expect that the event which
he selects as interesting to h\f> own nation, will be
regarded at best with indifference, perhaps with
disgust, by nine-tenths of the rest of mankind.
There are besides vety few publick events sus-
ceptible of picturesque * fTecl : the business of go-
vernment is no longer transacted in a publick forum,
before the asseml)led people, with all the accesso-
ries of eloquence, passion, and leliiiion: the artist
must now giope his way into the ministerial closet,
thence to extract well-drest heads, from which feel-

174

FHILAUGLPHIA.

ing never shook the powder, and transplant to his
canvass rows of vacant, or kindly coiinteiianres,
looking over (he pirlitioning of kingtiotns, with rMwh.
an air uh easy <j;rocera cast up their ledgers. All is
calculation; and how can c.dculnitiou be painted?
Take two or three subjects from Roman history by
way of contrast : — 1. Itoratiiis Codes singly de-
fending (he bridge of the Janicidiim. — His coun-
trymen are at work behind him, breaking down the
bridge, on the destruction of which hangs the fate
of the youthftd repiiblick. Sliatne to be thus held
in check by a single warriour, a sense of the impor-
tance of gaining the pasi ere the Roiians have com-
pleted their work, have urged on the ti'ruAcans to
surround their adversary : his shield is aire idy stuck
full of their darts, and they are beginning, by budily
strength, to force him from his post : at this in-
stant, the crash uf tlie broken bridge, and the joyful
shout of the Kduuh, foramonent check their attack :
then Codes exclaims, " O father Til)er, 1 entreat
of thy Deity propitiously to receive these arms,
and this thy soldier to lliv stream." — 2. D iriug
the siege of Rome by the G.tuls, Q,iiinttis Kabius
1)i>rso p:isst;s tlirou^h the midst of their army, in a
sacrificial habit, bearing the sacred vessels in his
{iiPiis, to ptM'foriu the riljd of his family ou (he
Collis Ct'iirinalis, *' LIvii Mist. I. v. c. 46." — Some
'of the (} luls s ;ek to terrify lii'n with menacing
gestures ; some point him out, with astonishment at
his audacity ; others regard him with a religious re-
verence. — '\. The death of Brutus, as described by
Vetleius I'aterculus. (lis left arm is raised, and
thrown back above his head ; his right hand guides
the sword's point to his heart : the averted counte-
nance am' hesitating posi ire of his freedman, con-
trast with the resolved and energetick attitude of the
hero. —Of modern incidents, battles seem to be most
capable of picluresipie effect ; yet here the artist
encounters dilHcultios of no trifling kind. The chief

PHILAnELPHIA.

interest is attached to the leiuler, who niiiHt ronse«
qiiently occupy (lie centre of the paiiiliii|r ; but a
general oflicer and his Hlitti* are precisel}' the leust
pictnre!iC|ue, because the niosf inactive objecls in
the whole army. To rt'prcsent a great degree of
perlurljdiion, would be to indicate a want of 8elf-
posr«e>>8iun : I he painter is therefore retluced to a
kind of grt)iipina, rendered almost ridiculous by re-
petition : lht> general's extended right aim, his while
horse's corresponding raised leg, an aid-ilecamp
with his lial oil", on the callop, have become the ine-
vitable common pluces of bHille-pieces. Our bailies
are well suMcd lo piinornnias, l>ecHn<>e, though they
have much tiiiiforn)i>y in the detail, fhr> tiave n oie
variety in the loultnsetiihle, than those of liie an-
cients.

In addition to these general tlisailvantagps, piiinl-
ing in America lias some p«!culiar olii*iaclcs Jo ton-
tend witti. The more etpial di\ision of wtahh
leaves a less surplus to be t xp'iided :n the Inxniy
ofthearls: the etjual tlivisii)n of inheritances places
almost every man in the necespiiy of JiitAinj; re-
course to commert'c, or a pmlt ssiMi : ve cttiiBCCji-enlly
find neither the idleness which et'^'endiis dissipa-
tion, nor the leisuie which cieales taste. "i^ Again,
industry has loo many safe roads to cnn>| eUnce,
to induce anv considerable nianber of men of talrnti
to embarkMl in n protcshii>n, whose honours, like a
giMidon of chi^ally, nre lendtred ilenrer lo the tiic-
ce^slid iiw, by the many s!icr>ficed in ihe iKhinlnre.
Thus the \ery advantages ol America tniii ityainst
the arts ; nor would it, perhaps, be i dining loo lar to
observe, that the tendency observable in Ameiicnnn
towards logical analysis, the natural result of their
education and government, ll.ough extrrniely nsetul
in the business of lile, is not eijually lavourbblc to the

, jt

* I «i|)(>ak nationally: tlierr are, ol l•^lll^^e. ir<lividiial<i t»li«
fono eice|iliunii to botii brandies of ttie curullarv.

» '

ire

PHILAUELPHIA.

arts i the exrellence of which, to be rightly judged,
miiiit he powerfully fell ; whereas, to think correctly
on all siihJeclR, it* to feel gtrontsly on none. In fine,
Americii may jiHtly expect a brillant succeHii in what-
ever relates to the useful Hciences, in mechanical in-
ventions, and all the arts by which htr immense terri-
tory, and active population may be nioAt abvanta-
geously employed ; but the ideal world is not included
In ij..r doirinin ; it has, perhaps in mercy, been assign-
ed to \\\o*e nations which have learned to feel, by
being compelled to suflTer.

§ 3. — 80CIETT.

" When niusick and the fine arts," (says the Mar-
quis de Chastelliix, and a Frenchman must be allowed
a voice on such subjects,) " come to prosper in Phila-
delphia: when society once becomes eany ^nd gay,
and they le.irn to accept of pleasure when it presents
itself, without a formal invitation ; then may foreigner*
enjoy nil the advantai;es peculiar to their manneri
and governineiit, without envying any thing in Eu-
rope.** I'o which his translator subjoins, by way
of commentary ;'* It is very certain, that any person
educated in Europe, and accustomed to the luxury
of muHicIc and the fine arts, and to their enjoyment
in the two capitals of France and Enti(land, must find
a great void in these particulars in America.** — A
lapse of thirty five years has not diuiinishod the truth
of these (diservations. Society in Philadelphia, (and
what may be said on this point, with regard to Pl^ila-
del|iliia, a[»plies with double force to all ofher parts
of Amerii;a,) is yet in its infancy. By so« iely, I
mean the .irt of combiiiiiit! sorial (|ualilies, so as to
produce the highest degree of riWional enjouneni ;
this huppoMCs a common stock of ideas, on subjecti
generally iiiteresliuK, and a manner of givins then
f' i*tiou, by which the lelf-love of each uiay be at

PHILADELPHIA.

once roused, anil satiafieii. Piibliok amunementis the
ar«8, such literary and philoBopliiral to|iicH ax require
tasite and Hensibiliiy, wiihuut suppos^ing a fatiguing
depth of erudition, a morality rather ^^racelul than
ausiere, and a total absence of do}!inaliHin on all sub-
jertH, consititnie nvAuy of the inateiiids for Hurh an
interrourae. In Philadelphia, publirk aniUHeinenIs
are nothing; the (ine arts little ronxiilcrcd, betuuHe
every man is suflii ienlly ociMipied with hix own busi-
ne!<s ; for the Maine reanon, que .lionn of mere specula-
tion in literature or philosophy would be looked upon
as a wattte of lime ; in morality, every thing is pre-
cise ; in religion, all is dogma. It uiity seem sti.inge,
that a people so generally uell infornu-d as the Ame-
ricans, tihould be so little sensible to lilerary ciijoy-
meuls : not less curious is it, that the fircst p«ople
upon earth should be straigh(-la« t;d in iiioiidii\, and
dogmatical in religion : a nuMiient's consideritiion will
8nl\e this seeming inconsisteiu y. The Americuni
read for improvement, and to msike a Diaclical

li-

cation of their knowledge : they collcii luuie> for the
hive, not to lavish its sweetness in social iuteiroutse ;
hence the form is less considered than the mutier ;
but it is \\u' form which is principully the subject of
taste. There is besiiles, a principle of economy
running through every department of sorit*ly in the
Slitlt's : it is a sa\ing of lime, rather to import Itooks
than to write them ; hence, there is no cl;iss of authors,
no literary emulation : criticism loses its iiit«'iesi when
confined to the pro<tut lions of foreigiieis ; th> y inaj
be read for proiil or amusement, but they cinuiot be
discussed, either in their f.uilts or beauliew. with the
feeling inspirrd by the wriiiu2» of coinp.iti iois, whose
reputation every mnnbtT ofsttrieiy feels iis ronneet-
ed with his own, siid their glorv as part of his pslri-
monv. Aiain, piquancy in conversation supposes a
certain persiflage, a ialitudr in opinion, which ;dlows
every thmg to be said on < vri v sultprt, pio\ided it
be latd well : Ibis kind of freedom, wiiich up|tertuini

'I J

ira

rtllLADELPHIA.

I) .

*/ liu

perhaps, (o a corruption of existing institutions, ii
singularly inapplicaiile to a country, in which all
moral iluties are poitiiive ; aiul whatever is poiiilive
adtnits neither of speculation nor discussion.

Reiigiouii toleration has produced in America an
eflfect, which though natural, is curiously the reverse
of what the advocates for a church, " by law es*
tablished," cotuiuonly predict. A monopoly, either
in trade or religion, goes far to produce stagnation
and d«;crement ; tihi una, ibi tnilla. — Zeal cools,
and faith decays, under the indolent governance of
chartered pistors, with who!U such extrriNtl coinpli«
ance, as will assure them on tlie score of temporals,
may be expected to form the chief pari of their anxie-
ty. When tlie mo.'iopoiy is entirely close, the
few in whose minds r^ii-iiin continues to assert her
rights, have no resource, but in suoh positive iiifidell-
ty as will permit those outward compliances, which an
heretical belief woidd re^iurd as criminal. A free com-
petition, on the contrary, not only stimulateH the
zeal of all, because oU'i sect has no advantage over
another, except what it ar<pdres by its own exertioni,
but in the many shades of t«elief it otfers to the pub-
lie choice, there are few so fastidious as non to find
some colour suitable to their own complexion ; and
as every proselyte is a genuine \ictory, the stray
iheep from one told ait> very ipiickly caught u|) and
penned in tuiolher. Thrre are forty-two rhurchcs in
Philadelphia : Kornati (Jaiholirk, ^episcopalian, Pres-
byterian, tinaker, Kici; (r^uakcr, Swedish Lutheran,
German liutheran, (}ern:an Kdormeii, Associate,
Associate litiormed, Covenanters, Methoih'^tH, (/hris-
tiaii cliiirch, iMoi avian, I niverM.ilit«t, Indepeiulenti
Unitarian, .It'wish. To fall in with none of these,
wouUi indicate a surprising eccentricity of character,
not likely to meet with much indulgence ; and hav-
ing choi«n one, the American would coi;-ider, that,
like a tiaili , it wan seriously to be followed, and no
longer ipeculaled upuu.

* 1 ;

»
• t

PHILADELPHIA.

I?5»

Politicks are, indeed, a RiiUjcct of high interest,
whether in action or Mp'iciilation, but for this very
reason they are scarcely a fit t«>{)ick for social relaxa-
tion : they are a ptirl of every injn'ii ttiHiiiess, and
are discussed as «ncli : a pleaiire to<i, which eKcludes
the fe'nale half of society, scarcely beionj^a to the
clas!* of social enjoyiiients, yet the inlerest it excites,
will prob.ibly lon^ render the Ainericans careless of
the li«;liler beanlies of conversational pleasure.

I proceed to consider the manner necessary to
give >»ociety its perfect j^race. " All the politeness
of the Americans," observes the Marquis de Chas-
tellux, *' is mere lorm, such as drinking health to the
company, observin<: ranks, giving up the ri^ht hand,

&c. but til

ey (Jo no

iliiui:; of this, but what has beei

taught them; not a particle of it is ttie result of sen-

titnenl : in a word, itoliteness here, is like reli

gion

Italy, every thing in practice, but without any
principle." I have myself seen a lad haniling two
young women out of a pol-houne into (he stage wag-
gon, with all the gravity of a Master of the Ceremo-
nies at Uath : in fact, this varnish is used to cover
manners very frequently vul'i,ar, and very rarely
elegant. IManners to be viilg.ir must be affected;
the meanest Indian is a genllernHn, because he is
composed and natural ; add a desire to please, and
you have all that society reipiires. A Frenchman is
as anxious to. please as he appears, because hia
vanity is gratified by success; his politeness ii
the natural expre'jsior of this anxiety, and plea-

ses, as something natural.

le Ameru'an,

on
rn-

the contrary, nilent and rcfKciing, occupies hi
leir very little with the cliVi I of what he says;
*' liriller iliins In Soriili^^^ is to him an unmean-
ing phrase ; his po

iilenesis is, therefore,

no re-

flexion of his feelings, but an arlifii iai form Im; has
borrowed, to hide a vacuum : — and what should haxc

liKtuceii a sensihie people l.) Iiorrow a trap|)uig ho
unsiiiled (o thtir chara.ler .' The vanity probably,
to rival Uie nations of Europe, in manners, as well

180

PHILAUELPHIA.

11^

as in arts and power : (he French led (he ton in
fashions ; and accident gave French fashionn a dou-
ble advantage in America: but they made ihe mis-
take of the nobleman, who purchased Fiuu h, and
then wondered he exhibileii none of the feats which
had delii^hted him, while in possession of the show-
man : — but I mistake; they have no such astonish-
ment ; they believe, he actually does exhibit (hem
all.

I have proceeded too far in the discussion of man-
ners without introducing the ladies, who have so
great a sh»rc in forming them. Their cheeks may
redden, perhaps, at my hard sayings, but I offer to
replace their wreaths of tinsel, with rhaplets of pearls.
Women bear a high rate in the American market^
because they are scarce in proportion to the demand,
in a country, w!iere all men marry, and marry young ;
consequently they are not called upon, to make great
exertions to captivate ; they can do without striking
ar.compliithmenis, and, to recur to a trading maxim,
wiiich (hey will very well understand, there will sel-
dom be more of a commodity raised for market, (ban
the conHiimpliou calls for. Female accomplishments
are consequently in (he same predicament with male
politeness ; they are cultivated upon a principle of
vanity, to imitate (he ladies of Europe; but they
feldom enrich the understanding, or give eleicance
to the manners : — like the men, the ladies fall into
the mistake of confounding fashions with manners,
and think they import Parisian graces with Parisian
bonnet;* : nay, this is little, they have improved the
commodity : " The American ladies," as 1 nave heard
an American lady modestly observe, *' unite French
grice with English modesty." Happy combination,
did it not neutralize Ihe whole compound ' Let ua
view (hem in (heir perihelion, at a ball or assembly.
Chairs are arranged in a close semi-circle ; the !;\dlet
file into the room, and silently take their seats bortide
etch other, the men occupy ing (he chord of (he segment,

i,\

PIIII.AUr.I.PHIA.

%'i8-a-vis to their fair foes, (for sufili their cautious
distance and rare coiiimnniculion would indicate Ihem
to be :) the men in this situation dittCUSH trade and
politick-^ ; the ladies, fashions and doini'slick incidents,
with all I lie quiet and gravity becoming the solemni-
ty of the meeting; : tea and cufft^e are handed about,
and in due process of time, cakeit and lemonade,
&c. : rIiouUI there be no dancing, the forces draw
otr, afier having for several hours thus reconnoiiied
each other. When they dance, the n»en slep for-
ward, and, more by gp>(lure lliiin word, indicate their
wishes to their fair partners: Cotillions then com-
mence, with a gravity and perseverance almost pitia-
ble, "Dancing,** nays the MiU(|uis de Chastellux,
is said to be at once the etnbicin of gayety and of
love : here it seems to be the "emblem of legislation
and marriage.'* The animation displayed by the
feet never finds its way into the countenance, to light
up the eye, or deepen the rose on the cheek,

Wlijrh liang^ in c->iill and lirrli><<« lustre tlicre.
Like a P'd nak-li-af in tin winiry air;
While llie hhierye altovi.' it rnUlly lH<am4,
Liko moonliglit radiance upon frozen streams.

One conceives, on these occasions, how dancing
may become, as it is among the Shakers, a relicious
ceremony. IM. Volney is inclined to deduce from
the sour Prrsbyterianism of the first settlers in New
l*^Mgland, " //f Inv rfiiiiionirn.r, /'«»> irrave et silen-
cieuTy el toiife rHitjitctle iriiimhe qui rrtine enrare
dnns la socitii dfs fenintfs ties Ktals I'liis/* Not-
withstanding the niulli|ili(;ily of seels in America,
they all take theii- lone rnun llu; auslercHt, that they
may lose none of I he a«l\;inl.ir*'« rcNidling from the
appearance of superiour sanctity : in this way« peo-
ple of all creeds are screwed up lo the [lilcli of ('al-
vinistirk slilfness: gallantry itself asHiimes a solemn
and serious air : the God of Love has laid aside his

]ft2

PHILADELPHIA.

J( {>t

torch and purple wlnc;s, and sfeps a merchant's clerk,
well versed in the (nvHieries holh of gruce and uun.
Society, under these circiimsfances, heconien in>iead
of theF.Mst, the Fast of Self-love. With scarcely

any

cotiiinnnK

ation of Hen>iiiient betwixt the sexes,

there is no collision to strikeout the sparkle!* of v. it,
nor any sympathy of tastes to kindle feelin'i, or ^ive
the expression of it anim:ilion. Parties Heparaie as
if they had p«>rforn)t'(l a duty, and meet to perfotm
one a^ain. — i have thus far touched on the (leficien*
cies of A nerican females, let me speak their praise.
Their good «pi;dities are of a sterlinj; kind : jiood
wives, j^ood mothers, prudent housekee[iers, they
may hid defiance to the satirist, until Ihev tpiit the
hallowed cir«;le of domestick virtues, to (loller heavi-
ly on the li;;ht airs of vanity : throuji;h their aflVrta-
tion only are they vulnerable. Should it he objected
that domestick virtues alone are insufficient to j^ive
the human mind its fullest expansion, to produce
a He Slael or an 10. Ii^e worth, we may reply, that
the cneriretick feelings which nourish the soul of
genius, thouu;h to their im-uediate posseHsor they
may, acitordint; to circumstances, be productive
cither of puin or pleasure, yet in their ;;eneral growth,
are iti variably attached to a slate of social hutioring :
there must be a war of elements to engender the
Ihuntlerbolt. In America life moves evenly, for
every one is thriving in his proper pla< e. IMisfor-
tiine, when it occurs, as where iloes it not ? flows
from individual miscalculation, an«i has, therefore,
none of the solemn character of Natality, whicli it
bears in asocial svslein, miire defectively ort{.inized.
Whatever has been observed with rej^ard to socie-
ty ill Philadelphia, and in the Stales ^renerally,
must be taken with such exceptions as all (General
observations are liable to. In all the principal towns
small circles are to be met with, in which animated
converiiation, i^olished and easy manners, leave no-

PniLAPrLPHIA.

183

thin:; (o be <1e<<ire(], but that tliej should be more
coriiiiioii. The Atiierir.iuis have, in general, a frienil*
liness of iiiaiuier which iuuUI not fuil to please, would
they 1^1 >lie sti-earii lake iia ititiirat courne, without
torluriii^; if into arlifirial />rs- </' f(in. With this feel-
irii; I have been ol'ten lc>ii|)t(Ml t«) consider th*; farmers
of the back-wooth the polilest class of people in the
Stiites, bt!cuiH*> their mani.ers spring from the true
souK-.e, their feejni^g.

To a siraii<r,«r, Philadelphia is a less agreeable resi-
dence th:tri i:i*)s| other citicH of Ihtf I'nion, for (he
same reasons which I'lnicr it more agreeable In the
inhabitant!!!, its social circle is larger, and conse*
quently less iiKeds the aid of Atrnngers: it is besides
less exclusively coiinnercial, and therefore leas in the
habit of bhewinj; them hospitality.

§ 4. — GAOL AND PENAL CODE.

The Philadelphia prison is a more infereslinjr ob-
ject to humanity than the most j;roru;eons pidat es : it
presents the practical application of princi|.|eK which
worldly men have derided, and pliilot-opliy ha» up-
held, w iihoiit darinu; (o liope for their iultiption. 'IMie
exieriour of the bnildii \r \h himple, v iih rather the air
of an hospital than a vjaol : a siniile grated door sepa-
rates the interiour from the street. On enterinu; the
court-yard I found it full of stone-ciiiteis, '■mploved
in Hawint: and preparini; large blocks of stone and
marble; Hinillis' forg<>s were at uork on one ^ide of
it, and the whole court is surionnded by a uallery
and double tier of work shops, in which were brush-
makers, tailors, shoemakers, weavers, all at their
several occupations, hdioiiiini;, not only to defray to
the pnblick the expences of their coidinement, but to
provide the means of their own honest sidi^islenve lor
the future. I passed Ihroiifrh the shops, and paused
a inomeiit in the gallery to look down on (he Hcene

184

PHILADELPHIA.

below : it had none of the usual features of a prinon
bouse, neither the hardened proflii^iicy which scoffs
down its own sense of guilt, not ihe hollow-eyed sor-
>ow which wastes in a living death of unavailing expia-
tion : there was neither the clank of chains, nor yell
of execration, but a hard-working body of men, who
though seperated by justice from society, were not
supposed to have lost the distinctive attribute of hu-
man nat'ire: they were treated as rational beings,
operated upon by rational motives, and repa} ing
this treatiii'iil by improved habits, by industry and
8ub nissior) : ihey had been profligate, they were sober
and decent in behaviour ; thev had been idle, they
were actively and usefully employed ; they had diso-
beyed the laws, they submitted (armed as they were
with all kind of utensils) to the government of a single
turnkey, and the barrier of a single grating. The
miracle which worked all this was humanity, addres-
sing their self-love thtough their reason. I envied
Atnerica this system 1 felt a pang that ray own
country had neither the glory to have invented, nor
the emulation to have adopted it. — I borrow the de-
tail of its history and regulations from " the Pirture of
Philadelphia," publishedby Dr. James IMease, liill.
History. — By the code of laws, framed by Wil-
liam Penn, the punishment of death was abrogated in
all cases, except " wilful and premeditated dturder
where it was admitted in obedience to tht will of
Ood." These humane and Christian laws, when
transmitted to England, were all repealed by the
Queen in council, but were immediately re-enacted,
and continued till the year 17IU, the epoch of Penn's
death: the penal code of England was then revived.
The constitution of Pennsylvania, formed upon the
declaration of independence, directed, in one of its
first provisions, *' the Legislature to proceed to the
reformation of the penal laws, and to invent punisli-
ntents less sanguinary, and better proportioned to the
various degrees of crimioality." In 1786, when the

••♦»^**

PHILADELPHIA. jg,

close of the war Uft i •

"» some cases whic h Ld he «": /'"'' "'^ ''^'^ '«»'0«r,
bour, however, whs pZ k I l'"'" ''^P''«' • >^i« '«-
*J'o aMain none 0^^! .i^ . .^'^ «««" ^''^^over-
»em ; hardening, rJi^^.i^^' .•^"^« of punl.h-
and creafing, i„ ,/,« nnbh'<^ ..??""'"« '*'^ *^'''"""a' ;
' i';!.r?r'"*"'''-'''''errCahW^ ^«'"n>i«erafion fo.'
;?«?'. l>r. Uu«h, whHad 7 "^-^ "'^^e crime, i"

read a p«pe, 3, ^ socieh br nniK "^ Pnnishmen.s.
at hehouseofihevenera^ffr' '"^"''•'^«' ''^'^
l^nqu.r^ ,nfo ihe Influence of „n'",' T'^'*^^' " ^
on tnm,nals and Socle/ v'' u'ii"'' Puni^hmenf8
Pubhshed. In Jhu 1.1 "^ ' "~"^'<^'i was afferward.

chief of ,he penlfL'r.aX'" "™"" """'■■"-
and proposed (haf »li '".'/"•" "een recenflv nasspd

and Iha.^he; IhoJd ZZ^f"'' '«'""" ^'^ ™
k.nds of lahiur, low d.er c ,.?' 7"^?«'"^"^ ^'fl-eren
bj religious ins^rucrion T^. "^^ accompanied
'n Hs pamphlet were"«td IT'*^'^^. ^*^"'«'"«'»
'"'•cule,,n,henewspape?r T,''''^' ''""'^^y and
«? /he schemes of ^ humanp .^^ ^^•"^ considered

v.s.onar^ imagination. J "nrirr^'' *^'" "''^ «"^'
the nature of man, and hi T .^"'' ""P«8««ble, from
«ver to realize. ZtJh 'T'""""" "'' '"« n.ind^
powerful opposioC'tr,t"> ''"'^^-^' « "-«
*'ad.byacontinuanJeofthr?. ' "-^Pcaled, af.er if
'e*^ nesH of Ihe argumen f/*^ f-T' P^"^^^' '^^ 'o -
?««'"«' if. In place of n.K,?"'' *""*' b««" '"^led

Jour in private,^;:. tf,t';tr'"'^''"'^"'' *>«"""
diet, were suh«t|rufe , • IndT ""P'^'«""^«*nf, and low

entitled" An E„^,,ir,7„^7^^ f''°"'^ ^""'Pl'lef,
punishing Murde/ b/ Del,/ ^* 1"'"'/ ""*' ^"'^0 o
fo-d, the Attorney-Genera '„fP '" '?^' ^'•- «-d.

"'i "An Bnquir/how7a; he pT-''^'^ ""'■"' ''"''''«''-

24 '^•""^^n'cnt of Death

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Hiotographic

Sdencos

Corporation

13 WIST MAIN STRUT

WIISTIR.N.Y. MSIO

(7U) 173-4503

l/u

186

PHILADELPHIA.

is necessary in Pennsylvania," with documents from
the criminal conrls of the state, calculated to enforce
the principles laid down by Dr. Rush. An account
of the gaol was added, by Caleb Lowndes, one of
the inspectors of the prison. At the following ses-
lion of the Legislature, the punishment of death was
abolished for ail crimes except murder of the fir&t de>
gree ; and a motion was made, during the session of
1809, to abolish it altogether.

Reffulaiions and Government. — The gentlemen
who tirst undertook the task of inspectors, encoun-
tered conrtiderable opposition from those who had, or
imagined they had, an interest in the abuses of the
old system. The gaoler had grown rith by gaol
f(^es, the sale of liquors, and similar perquisites, and
was naturally a decided enemy to innovation. The
prisoners on being informed that their former habits
of indolence and drunkenness were to be replaced
by labour and sobriety, took alarm, and on the eve-
ning of the first day on which the experiment wai
tried, made a desperate effort to escape ; but upon
the restoration of order, the adoption of mild but
decided conduct, ultimately secured the most per-
feet obedience. The prisoners were informed, " that
their treatment would depend upon their conduct,
and that those who evinced a disposition that would
afford encouragement to believe they might be re-
stored to liberty, should be recommended for a par-
don, but if convicted again, the law in its fullest rigour
would be carried into effect against them." A
change was early visible ; they were encouraged to
labour ; their good conduct was remarked ; many
were pardoned ; and before one year was expired,
their behaviour was almost without exception, de-
cent, orderly, and respectful. The principal regula-
tions of the present system, may be reduced to the
following heads :

I. Cleanliness.— Th" criminal on coming into the
gaol is bathed, and cloathed in the prison dreii, bis

FHILADBLPBIA.

187

face and hands are washed daily, his linen is changed
weekly, and he bathes during the sutnmer. The
apartments are swept and washed once or twice a
Week.

2. Lodging. — The prisoners lie on the floor in a
blanket, about thirty in one room. The hours for
rising and retiring, are announced by a bell. A lamp
is kept burning, so that the keeper has constantly a
view of the apartment.

3. Diet. — They take their meals with the greatest
regularity, by Nound of a bell : silence is enjoined
while eating. Fur breakfast they have about three-
fourths of a pound of good bread, with molasses and
water ; at dinner, half a pound of bread and beef,
a bowl of soup and potatoes, sometimes heninj^s in
the spring ; at supper, corn meal, mu!«h, and niolas-
■es, and sometimes boiled rice. Slight otfences iu
prison are punished by a curtailment of diet. Spi-
rituous liquor or beer never enters the walls, nor
are provisions permitted to be sent to the convicts.

4. Sickness. — A room is appropriated to the sick,
with a physician and nurses to attend them ; hut the
regularity of their lives almost secures them from
disease*

5. Religious Instruction. — Divine service is per-
formed on Sundays, and good books are distributed.

6. Labour. — Work suitable to the age and capa-
city of the convicts is assigned, and an account open-
ed with them. They are charged with their board,
clothes, the fine imposed by the state, and expense
of prosecution, and are credited for their work ; at
the expiration of their time of servitude, half the
amount of the sum, if any left, after deducting the
charges, is paid to them. As the board is low, the
labour constant, and the working hours greater than
among mechanicks, they easily earn more than their
expenses. On several occasions, the balance paid
to a convict has amounted to more than 100 dollars ;
in one initaoce, it was 160 dollars, and from 10 to

•. i

i I

/ '>

ill

i' "i

...,r y

188

PHILADELPHIA.

40 dollars are commonly paid. When, from the
nature of the work at which the convict has been
employed, o^ from his weakness, his labour does not
amount to more than the charges against him, and
his place of residence is a distance from Philadel-
phia, he is furnished with money sufficient to bear
his expenses home. The price of boarding is
16 cents (about 9d.) a-day, and the general cost
of cloaths for a year, is about 19 dollars 33 cents.

7. Corporal pwiishment is prohibited on all occa-
sions. The keepers carry no weapons, not even a
stick.

8. Solitary confinement. — The solitary cells are
16 in number : their dimensions six feet by eight,
and nine feet high ; light is admiltfd by a window at
the end of the passages, and by a small window plac-
ed above the reach of the person confined, and so
contrived as to admit the light only from above.
Stoves in winter are placed in the passages out of
reach of the convicts. No conversation can take
place betwixt the several cells, but by vociferation,
and as this would be heard, the time of punishment
would thereby be increased. The prisoner is there-
fore abandoned to the gloomy society of his own re-
flections. His food consists of only half a pound of
bread per day. No nature has been found so stub-
born as to hold out against this punishment, or to
incur it a second time. Some veterans in vice, have
declared their preference of death by the gallows,
to a further continuance in that place of torment.
A convict, by name Jackson, who acknowleged him-
self to be an acconipiished villain, and to have been
in most of the gaols of the United States, was sen-
tenced to hard labour for several years in Philadel-
phia ; he gave much trouble, and at length escaped
over the walls ; he was pursued to IVlarylund, and,
on his way back, escaped again ; he was fiitallj
taken, and lodged in the cells, where, full of health,
and with a mind high-toned, he boasted of Lis reio-

^ . w

»«

PHILADELPHIA.

189

lution, and of the iropossibilily of subduing his spirit
or of efTecling any change in him ; but after having
been confined for some time, an alteration in his de-
portment became evident, and he took occasion, when
the inspecl^ors were going through the prison, to en-
ter into conversation with them, and inquired how an
old comrade^ in iniquity who had been long ron6ned,
had obtained his release froiy the cells. The reply
was, that he promised to behave well, and had been
put upon his honour ; " Would you trust mine ?" he
rejoined; "Yes," was the answer, "if you will
pledge it :" he did so, was released, went cheerfully
to work, and behaved with propriety during the re-
mainder of his time.

9. Inspection. — Visiting inspectors attend the
prison at least twice a week, to examine inio the
whole of its economy, hear the grievances, and re-
ceive the petitions of the prisoners, lay reports
monthly before the Board of Control, and in e^ery
point insure the regulaiity of the system; particular-
ly by watching the conduct of its subordinate agents,
as the keepers, turnkey, &c. They are fourteen in
number.

Such is the outline of the system on which Penn-
sylvania, and the Slates whi».h liiive folloved her
example, w ay secuiely pillow their fame. Objec-
tions, however, ha\e been rtiised to it : its mildness
has been represented as a temptation to crin e ; yet
crimes ha\t «!)ii.inii>hed, siiit e its ad<»pti(in. "More
persons," sn^s Mr. Brntlfvrd, "were trifd for larce-
nies and buiglaries, while thrse rfiCMei' wtie cupital,
than since the pnnishnient has been let<»ienrd. I
hdd heard it said that thefts weie c( nmiitttd for the

* This man hsA licrn ronflned Tor 8ix nirktliw in tlie rrljo, at
the (ud ol whicli t nir, le.ng ron (tidf ly Mildiifd. le waF let
out npnu a rnlen n |i!«d^r tiT ^niid Itl o\l(^iii'. nrd diirirg the
rert of hin \ itif, ^b\v tut Iroiililr b) tl'l^ (I'm. Mi niUiton-
TerRationN and seriou» advice of one of the inii|iet>tors powerful.
Ij asaisted.

■■ '- ^ *■

190

PHILADELPHIA.

sake of returning to prison ; and this is so far trut^
that negroes, who have neither friends, nor means of
getting their bread, have in some instances procured
their own return to an abode in which their few wants
are provided for; a provision comprising^all the en-
joyments of which their lives are susceptible. This
objection is in fact of a nature so rare and unique,
that I doubt whether Ihe friends of the institution
should feel very anxious for its removal. It would,
however, be hazardous to assert that this system is
suited to the meridian of all nations, or rather that all
nations are capable of receiving it : transplanted into
many European States, it would altogether change its
character, as the torch, which is a dim speck in sun-
shine, becomes a shining light in darkness. The pri-
son would be without the walls, and innocence would
take refuge within. In truth, liberal and humane in-
stitutions cannot co-exist with tyranny and moral de-
basement : they who rule by the lash, and the bayo-
net, have incapacitated themselves from employing
the golden weapons of humanity.

T.; ,-

[ 19» 1

■#.

CHAPTER XXVI.

PHILADELPHIA TO WASHINGTON.

Darhy

71-4

Chester

7 12

Nov. 26, Naaman's Creek

Wilmington

7 12

Newport

Cfirisliaoa

5 12

27, Elkton

Havrenle Grace

161-2

28, Harford Biiih

1114

Joppa

614

29, Baltimore

18 12

Dec. 8, Vani>ville

25 1-4

Bladeniburg

8 12

9, Waibingtoo

Milet.

*f^ ■•*

139

Off the banks of the Schuylkill, about two milet
from Philadelphia, there is a wild scene of rocki
breaking the river into several rushes and fails : the
metallick brilliancy of these rocks, whenever their
strata are broken up, indicates (he ridge of talkous
granite, which Volney has traced for nearly 500
miles, from Long Island to the Roanoke, and which
probably extends as far as the Savannah.*' It is ob-
served to limit the tide waters by the cascades it forms
CD crossing the rivers, and to separate the barren
sand-coast from the fertile alluvion districts above

* I found it about Raleigh in Nortli Cnrolina, and it seems by
the falls to cross the Fear hivrr near Kayettville, and the
Great Pedee near the Ferry ol' dliieenljorougb. It is in some
places composed of micaoeous schistus.

.#^

192

PHILADELPHIA TO WABHINGJON.

*;f[^

V V

i 1

\' -^ ]

« ;

i \

;*\

it, striking the Delaware at Trenton, the Schuylkill
at Philadelphia, the Sutiqiiehanna near Octarora
Creek, the Gunpowder Creek near Joppit, the Pa-
tapsco at Elkridge, the Potomac at Geor^^etown,
the Rappabanock near Fredericksbur^i the James at
Richmond, the Appainatox above Peter«bur(^, and
the Roanoke near Halifax. The road to Washing-
ton follows the line of this ridge, which naturally mo-
difies the features of the country. Its apparent eleva-
tion is inconsiderable, just sufficient to undulate the
face of the landscape, and occasionally pp'esenting,
especially round streams, bolder prominebces, called
bluffs in South Carolina. The creeks ami rivers,
wearing through a yielding soil, have frequently
their banks steep, and let the eye into deep woody
glens ; the soil in such situations is rendered fertile
by a mixture of clay with the sand which consfitutei
its basis."^ As far as Wilmington, the stately Dela-
ware enriches the prospect : from thence the scenery
is uniform, consisting of plantations, interspersed with
oak and pine barrens.

Tiie houses universally shaded#ith large verandas,
seem to give notice of a southern climate ; the hats
round them, open to the elements, and void of every
intention of comfort, tell a less pleasing tale : I hey in-
form the traveller he has entered upon a land of mas-
ters and slaves, and he beholds the scene marred
with wretched dwellings, and wretched faces. The
eye, which for the first time looks on a slave, feels a

Eainful impression : he is one for whom the laws of
umanity are reversed, who has known nothing of
society but its injustice, nothing of his fellow man but
his hardened, undisguised, atrocious selfishness. The
cowering humility, the expressions of servile respect,
with which the negro approaches the white man,
strike on the senses, not like the courtesy of the

* I foiiii'l abundance of iron-stone on this line, in blocks and
detached masses.

* * .* w

»- /

PHiLAUELPHIA TO WASHINGTON.

193

huyium

)cldrora
J he Pa-
rjretown,
fames at
Lirj^, and
Vri^hing-
raily rno-
int eleva-
iilafe the
esentint;,
•s, called
J rivers,
cqiieiitly
;p woody
•ed lerlile
onstitutes
ely Dela-
e scenery
srsed with

verandas,
the hats
of every
they in-
of mas-
marred
les. The
e, feeU a
e laws of
othing of
man but
88. The
respect,
ite man,
of the

French and Kalian [»casant, civing a i;race fo pover-
ty, but with iltf (.liillini; indicalion of a crushed spi-
rit : the .sound of th«i lash is in his accents of submis-
sion, and llic eye which shrinks frotn mine, caught its
fear from that of the task-master. Habit steels us to
all thini;s, and it is not to be expected, that objects,
con.»(finlly presf-Mit, sho'ild continue to excite the
same scr)satiou3 wliich (licy cause, when looked upon
foi- the first time ; (and this, perhaps, is one reason,
why so much cruelty has been tolerated in the
world ;) but whoever should look on a slave for the
first time in his life, witli the same indiHerent 2;aze he
would bestow on any casual object, may triumph in
the <;oo<l foitune throuj;h which he was bom free ; but
in his heart, he is a slave, anil as a moral being, de-
graded infinitely below the u'^i^ro, in wiiose sotil the
light of freedom has been cxlinguislied, not by his
own insensibility, but by the tyranny ot others. Did
the miserable condition of the n'-gro leave him mind
for reflection, he mia^ht Inuiih in his chains to see bow
slavery has stricken the lai.d with ugliness. The
smiling villages and happy popidation of the Eastern
and Central statcB, give place to the splendid eqni-

f>ages of a few platMers, and a wretched negro popu-
ation, crawling anmn^; fil'hy liovels — for villages,
(after crossing (he Susquehanna,) there are scarcely
any ; there are only plantations — the very name
speaks volumes.

Iblocks and

[ 194 1

CHAPTER XXVII.

BALTIMORE.

W'HiLE I was in Baltimore, I saw a sketch of the
citj, taken in 1750; it then consisted of about half
a dozen bouses,- built round the landing place : it
now contains 50,000 inhabitants, and is growing
rapidly. Here are reckoned to be some of the
largest fortunes in the Union, that is, of from 500,000
to 1,000,000 dollars. To strangers, the polish-
ed hospitality of its inhabitants renders it a plea-
santer residence than Philadelphia. For my own
part, though very slightly introduced, I received
more civilities in proportion, during the week I spent
in this city, than in the whole course of my tra-
vels besides. Perhaps this courteous disposition is
in a certain degree an inheritance: during the colo-
nial regime, Annapolis was the centre of fashion to
all America : the Governours of Maryland were
commonly men of rank and family, who brought
with them a taste for social elegance, which seems
to have become the appanage of the old families,
who, since Annapolis has fallen into decay, have
become residents of Baltimore. The city is built
round the bead of a bay, or inlet of the Patuxent,
about eight miles above its junction with Chesapeake
Bay. The entrance of the harbour at Gossuch
Point is l50 yards across, and defended by a fort,
which our fleet ineffectually bombarded during the
war. A sand bank, about fifty feet in height, evi-
dently the ancient boundary of the bay, forms a
natural glacis round the town, and terminates at its
southern extremity, in the hill of the signal post,

.' .'"•

^1lM/■^-

BALTIMORE.

19^

from which there is a beautiful panoramick view of
the city, tort, arMl harbour. It was on this natural
terre-plein the lines were constructed against our
threatened attack.

The puhlick buildings of Baltimore, being all of
brick, have little aicliiteclural beauty ; they evince
the prosperity, and good polity, rather that the taste
of the city. There is, however, a monument erect-
ing to the Mieruory of Washington, in a kind of park,
adjoining the town ; it consists of a marble column,
adorned with trophies in bronze: the design, like
the man who<>e fame it records, is nobly simple.
This is the first token of publick gratitude Ameri-
ca has consecrated to her first citizen ; and, strange
to tell, the design was set on foot, not by an Ameri-
can citizen, but Uy an Irish exile.*

Annapolis continues to be the seat of government
for Marylind. iVIo>»t states choose some second-
rate town for this purpose, to preserve their legis-
lators, either from the seductions or the mobs of a
great city ; though there seems to be little cause for
alarm on either head.

* It is ludicrous, whcuever a city corporation gives a din-
ner to a puhlick character, to see what a clutter the news-
papers raise about " liepublican Gratitude." Party zeal is
fometimes a dreadful satirist.

• Jl

■0:

■A ■

[ iy(> ]

CHAPTER XXV III.

WASrilNGTON.

TiiK. trnveller, havina; passnti (liroiigh Bladensburg,
on (ho east Inancli of llu^ Patiixenf, where Ihe ac-
tion was U)ii<i;ht, wliioh (lie Asnericans have nick-
named the " Kiadensbnr,^ ra<",es," crosses a sandy
tract, interspersed tvith oak barrens and pine woods,
until sudiicrdy inonnlini!; a httU^ rise, cloi^e to a poor
cottage with Its Indian corn patch, he Hnds himself
opposite to the Capitol of the Federal city. It
stands on an ancient bank of the Patomac, about
eighty feet above the present level of the river;
the course of which it conimands, as well as the ad-
jacent country, as far as the Alleghany Ridges.
The edifice consists of two wings, intended to be
connected by a centre, siu'inounted by a dome or
cupola. The design is pure and elegant, but the
whole building wants grandeur. Each wing would
not be a large private mansion : the interiour has
consequently a contracted appearance, a kind of
economy of space disagreeably contrasting with the
gigantick scale of nature without, as well as with our
ideas of the growing magnitude of Ihe American
nation. Tiie staircase, which is a kind of vestibule
to the impression to be produced by the whole
building, is scarcely wide enough for three persons
to pass conveniently. The chambers of the senate
and representatives are of very moderate dimen-
sions, and the judgment hall, with its low-browed
roof, and short columns, seems modelled after the
prison of Constance in Marmion. Some of the de-
corations, too, ai'e of very dubious taste. Mr. La-

WASHINGTON.

197

ensburg,
I the ac-
ve nick-
a sandy
e wooils,
to a poor
; himself
:ity. U
ic, aljoiit
le liver ;
s Ihe ad-
Ridges,
d to be
dome or
but the
g wouUl
iour has
kind of
kvilh the
with our
merican
estibule
whole
persons
senate
dimen-
-biowed
liter the
It he de-
klr. La-

trobe has modelled ,\ sk-A of riirures for the Cliain-
bor ol K»>|irc^('iil.i(ives, to peisonily llie scmmuI
stales oI" IJK- rii;i>ii; bill as i| i» not fiisy fo <tis-
rovt-r ii;i aitrilMilc, !o say fiolliimi of a poetical ctia-
raclei i«<*i<'iv, by wlilcb Coiiiit'oiicut Uiay 1-e disiiii-
giiislied iVuin '.Ma>sar!n!>fMs, Noilii Catohria bom
Suddi C.u'oliiia, or Koiitiirky lioni ()Iii>>, i^itouise
must l»e Imd to (he uiijiiacct'iil expedieiif oi a sJiijier-
sc.rip(joi) lo point out \m own tii!e!.oy haiiil lo « :u:li
i'epro>*«'iitative. iMr. Latrob.; has, indeed, hit i;j»oii
one device ("or IMassiicliuHetts ; siie is leailiiii;, by (lie
huiid an ii}:;ly cub of a boy, rej-icseiiling IViaiut.', ^vhich
boy l)e(:ottit'S a giil when Maine a^sniucs )h i pro-
per stafe ; — a puerile conceit. One cannul lielj; re-
greltinu; the Ainerioans should have neglected lo ff^
give their new Capitol a »;haracler ol grandeur woiihy ■
of their (cnilory and ambilion. Privaje edifices -■
rise, decay, and are replaced by others of snperiour
niagni(icence, as the taste or growing opulence of
the nation require ; but publicU buildings should
have a character answerable to their purpose ; they
bear upon ihem the seal of the genius of the age,
and souietinies prophetically reveal the political des-
tinies of the nations by which ihey are raised.
The Romans communicated to their erections the
durability of their empire. The Americans, in
"their aspirations to be great," seem sometimes lo
look towards Roman models, but Ihe imitation u^ust
be of things, not names ; or instead of a noble pa-
rallel, Ihey are in danger of producing a hidinoiis
contrast.

From the foot of the Capilol hill there runs ii
straight road, (intended to be a sirt el.) jtlanled with
poplars, for about (wo,miles, to the President's hoi;se,
a handsome stone mansion, forming a conspicuous ob-
ject from Ihe Capilol Hill : near it are ihe publick
offices, and some streets nearly filled up : about half
a mile further is a pleasant row of houses, in one of
which the President at present resides : there are a

.1 .

»•

'SI'!

198

WASHINGTON.

few tolerable houses still fiirlher on the road to George-
town, and this is nearly the sum total of the City
for 1816. It used fo be a joke against Washington,
that next door neighbours must go through a wood (o
make their visits ; t>ut the jesi and forest tiave vanish-
ed together: there is now scarcely a tree betwixt
Gc >rgetowu and the Navy Yar*!, two miles beyond
the Capitol, except the poplars I have tnentioned,
which may be considereil as the loctim leuentes of fu-
ture houses. I doubt the policy of such thorough
clearing ; clumps of trees are preferable objects to
vacant spaces, and the city in its present state, being
commenced froin the extremities instead of the cen-
tre, has a disjointed and naked appearance. The
fiery ordeal has, however, fixt its destiny.* Land
and houses are rising in value, new buildings are
erecting, and with the aid of the intended university,
there is little doubt that Washington will attain as
great an extent as can be expected for a city possest
of no commercial advantages, and created, not by the
natural course of events, but by a political specula-
tion. The plan, indeed, supposes an immense growth,
but even if this were attainable, it seems doubtful
how far an overgrown luxurious capital would be the
fittest seat for learning, or even legislation. Perhaps
the true interest of the union would rather hold
Washington sacred to science, philosophy, and the
arts : a spot in some degree kept holy from commer-
cial avarice, to which the members of different stales
may repair to breathe an atmosphere untainted by lo-
cal prejudices, and find golden leisure for pursuits aqd
speculations of publick utility. Such fancies would
be day dreams elsewhere, and are so perhaps here ;
but America is young in the career of political life ;

* Our rxpodition ag;ain*it Wninliini^ton had a NJngular fate : it
pleased ()otl) Rides, ft pioaHed us, tor it Riicceeded. or Reemod
to succeed. It pleased the American government, tor ii pro-
Vokcd the spirit, by wounding the honour of the people. From
that raonient the war became uatioual.

i H'Y

MTASIIINOTON.

199

she has the light of former ages, and the BiiflTerinjiis of
the present to guide her ; she has not cru!«hed the
spirits of the many, to build up the tyranny olihe lew,
and, therefore, the prophelick eye of iinao;ination
may dwell upon her smilingly.

I fell info very pleasant society at Washington.
Strangers who intend staying some days in a town,
usually take lodgings at a boar<ling house, in prefe-
rence to a tavern : in this way, they obtain the best
society the place aflfords ; for there are always gentle-
men, and frequently ladies, either visitors or tempo-
rary residents, who live in this manner to avoid the
trouble of housekeeping. At Washington, during the
sittings of Congress, tlic boarding houses are <livided
into messes, according to the political principles of
the inmates, nor is a ctranger admitted without some
introduction, and the consent of the whole company.
I chanced to join a democraticU mess, and name n
few of its members with gratitude, for the pleasure
their society gave me : — Commodore Decatur and his
lady, the Ablig Correa, the great botanist and pleni-
potentiary of Portugal, the Secretary of the Navy,
the Secretary of the Navy Hoard, known as the au-
thor of a humorous publication, entitled "John Bull,
and Brother .fonallian," with eight or ten members
of Congress, princij»ally from the Western slates,
which are generally consiilered as most decidedly
hostile to England, but whom I did not on this account
find less good-humoured and courteous. It is from
thus living in daily intercourse with the leading cha-
racters of the coiinlry, that one is enabled to judge
with some degree of certainty of the practices of its
government ; for to know the paper theory is nothing,
unless it be compared with the inslrumcnts employed
to carry it into effect. A political constitution may
be nothing but a cabalistick form to cxtiact money
and power from the people; but then liie jugglers
must be in Mie dark, and " no admittance behind the
curtain.*' This way of living afl'ords too the best in-

'1
1

200

WASHINGTON.

i\ 1

\,K

sight into the best part of society ; for if in a free na-
tion fhe depositaries of the piiblick confidence be ig-
norant, or vulgar, it is a very fruitless search to look
for the opposite qualities in those they represent ;
whereas, if these bi^ well infortnod in mind and man-
ners, it proves at the least an inclination towards
kn()\vi<;d'^e and refiiiffni-nf, in the general mass of
citizens, hy whom they are selected. My ouii expe-
rience ol>!ig;es me to a favourable verdict in this par-
ticular. I found the little cii*:le into which I had
happily fallen, full of good sen''? and good hnniour»
and never quitted it without feeling myself a gainer
on the hi'ore, either of usehd itilormatioii or of social
enjoy nio:)t.

T(ie Pre iident, or rather his lady, holds a drawing-
room weekly, during the sitting of Congress. He
take--, by Jlse hand ihose who aie piesentcd to him ;
shakitig Inruis being 'liscovercd in America to be
more rational and aiaidy than kissing them. F'or the
rest, it is much as such things are everywhere, chat-
ting, and tea, compliments and ices, a little musick,
(some scandal, I suppose, among the ladies,) and to
bed. Nothing in these assemblies more attracted
my notice, than the extraordinary stature of most of
the wesier.. menibers ; the room seemed filled with
giants, among whom moderately sized men crept like
pigmies. I know not well, (o what the difference
may be attributed, but the surprising growth of the
inhabitants of the Western stales is matter of asto-
nishment to those of the Eastern, and of the coast line
generally. This phenotnenon, which is certainly a
considerable stumbling-block to the Alib<; Raynal's
theory, may probably be resolved into the operation
of three positive causes, and one negative, namely,
plentiful but simple food, a healthy cbunite, constant
exercise in the o|)en air, and the absence of mental ir-
ritation. In a more advanced stage of society, luxu-
rious and sedentary habits prod ice in the rich that
enfeebieuient of vitality, which scanty food, and labo-

WABHINeTOK.

201

i free na-
ce be ig-
h to look
ipresenl ;
and uian-

towards

mass of
»wn expe-
I thin par-
ch I had
I huiiioiir»
f a gainer

of social

a (lr;nv ing-
ress??. Vl6
?a\ lo liiin ;
rica to be
. For the
liere, chat-
tie miisick,
es,) and to
attracted
of moat of
lied with
crept like
ditference
vvth of the
cr of aato-
ooast line
•crtainly a
Uaynal's
operation
i, namely,
L constant
I mental ir-
^ety, luxu-
rich that
I, and labo-

rious or unwholesome occupations bring upon the
poor. The only persons to be compared with these
Goiiahs of the West, were six Indian chiefs from
Georgia, Chaetaws or Chickasaws, who, having come
to Washiny^ton on publick business, were presented
at Mrs. Madison's drawing-room. They had a still
greater appearance of muscular power than the Ame-
ricans ; and while looking on them, 1 comprehended
the prowess of those ancient knights, whose single
might held an army in check, " F.nd made all Troy
retire."

The sittings of Congress are held in a temporary
building, during the repair of the Capitol : I attend-
ed them frequently, and was fortunate enough to be
present at one interesting debate on a change in the
mode of Presidential elections : most of the princi-
pal speakers took a part in it : Messrs. Gattton, Cal-
houn, and Webster in support of it ; Randolph and
Grosvenor against it. The merits of the question
were not immediately to be comprehended by a
stranger, but their style of speaking was, in the high-
est degree, correct and logical, particularly that of
Mr. Webster of New Hampshire, whose argumenta-
tive acuteness extorted a compliment from Mr. Ran-
dolph himself, " all)eit unused to the complimenting
mood." Mr. Grosvenor, both in action and lan-
guage, might he considered a tinished orator, as far
as our present notions of [iractical oratory extend.
Mr. Randolph, wIkhc political talents, or rather po-
litical fluccesH, is said to he marred by an eccentrick
turn of thouirht, which chimes in with no party, seems
rather a brilliant than a convincing speaker ; his elo-
cution is distinct and clear to shrillness, his command
of language and illustration seems unlimited ; but he
gave me the idea of a nuui dealing huge blows against
a shadow, and wasting his dexterity in splitting
hairs: his political sentiments are singular : he con-
siders the government of the United States as an
elective monarchy ; " Torture the constitution ns

'• T.V»»"V'"». '

202

WASHINGTON.

ilKf I ' '

'■r

yoii will,'* said be, in the course of the debate, "the
President will elect his successor, and that will be
bis son whenever he has one old enough to succeed
him." No expressions are used, either of approba-
tion or the contrary'; whatever may be the opinion'
of the House, the most perfect attention is given to
each member ; nor, however long he may speak, is
he ever interrupted by those indications of impa-
tience so common in our House of Commons. This
may resHonably be accounted for by supposing,
that their average speeches are, in themselves better;
or more agreeably, by conjecturing, that the Ameri-
can idea of excellence is put at a lower standard
than our own. Both the talents, however, and beha-
viour of the members, seem worthy of the govern-
ment, and of what America is, and may be. Their
formH of business and deltate nearly resemble those
of our parliament ; always excepting wigs and gowns,
a piece of grave ab^turdity well omitted : for it is
surely an odd conceit, to fancy the dignity of the
first officers of Slates aliarluii to, or supported by,
large conglouteralious of arliticial hair.

' i.ii I

^ ^)^

^'l

ft *.

t • -

> . «

[ 203 ]

^ <

CHAPTER XXIX.

MOUNT VERNON.

L/R08SING the Patomac by a.wnoden bridge, a mile
and a quarter in letiglh, the toll of whicli id a dollar,
I proceeded through Alexandria, lo Mount Vernon.
Whatever is worth describing in the house or situa-
tion, has been many times described : having walked
through the gardens, I requested the old German
gardener, who acted as Cicerone, lo contiuci me to
the tomb of Washington: " Dere, go by dat path,
and you will come lo it," said he : I followed the
path across the lawn, to the brow that overlooks the
Patomac, and passing a kind of cellar in the bank,
which seemed to be an ice-house, continued my
search, but to no effect: — I had already found it:
this cellar-like hole in the bank, cloned by an old
wooden door, which had never been even painted,
was the tomb of Washington, with not a rail, a stone,
or even a laurel " to flouiisli o'er his grave."

I stood for a moment overpowered uitli astoriish-
ment and indignation : — behold, says Prejudice, the
gratitude of republicks ! behold, says Reuson, the
gratitude of mankind ! Had W tsliingtou served a
Czar of Russia, he might have shared with Suwa-
roff a Siberian exile ; he lived and died, honoured
by the country he bad saved ; he is forgotten in the
grave, because man is feebly excited by any but
selfish motives: the enlightened selfishness of repub*
licanism honoured its defender, but what form of
polity has been discovered, in which gratitude sur-
vives the hope of future benefiU ? Parly zeal raises

if'

204

MOUNT VBRKON.

monuments over its victims, to stimulate the sur-
vivors : vanity has not unfrequently urged the living
to unite by such means, their perishable names with
those of the immortal dead, but the mausoleum rises
slowly to which neither interest nor vanity contri-
butes. It is said the Federal city will finally receive
the remains of its designer ; but the Dead can wait ;
and in the interim the matter was nearly cut short,
by an attempt to steal the bones from their present
receptacle, to carry them about for a show. The
old door has since been kept padlocked.

K ''■'"! i '

si.ir

) _

''T

[ 205 ]

tie sur-
e living
ea with
m rises
r contri-

receive
an wait;
it short,

present
vl The

CHAPTER XXS.

* ,

WASHINGTON TO RICHMOND,

BT T^E SHEN;

VALLEY.

. \ Georgetown

1 Miles

Lower Falls of Patomac

l.pper Palls

11 '

Dec. 22, Lansville

Lpcpbiirg

i 13

23, Wafprford .

i 6

Hilnbornueh

24, Harper's Ferry'

25, Cliarlestown

20, Winchester

New Town, or Stevensburg

Strasburg . . ,

27, Woodstock

Mount Pleasant

28, Nfw market

Big Spring .

29, Hirrisonhurg

Port Rfpublick

30, Cave Inn

31, iSlaunton

Middlebiook

Jan. 1, Brownshurg

liPxiiigtou

2, Natural Bridge

Lexington to Fairfield

10 1-2

4, Greenville .

WayenPHboroiigh

5, Rock Fish Gap

4 *

6, ( harlottesville

7, Monticeilo

1 12

8, Bovd's Tavern

9, Mrs. Tisley's Tavern

Goochland Court house

10, Powell's Tavern

11, Kiclimond .

394

THE MATILDA F.\LLS.

Close to Georgetown the granite ridge strikes
the Patomac : the road winds agreeably under its

s li

1 3

206

THE MATILDA FALLS.

* : V

cliff, till it crosses an old bed of the river, left
dry in consequence of a canal which has been cut to
turn (he rapids: there is^ a chain bridge here, from
which the broken bed of the river, (he falls, sca((er>
ed masses of rock, and lofty banks, present a wild
and pleasing picture. Having pursued my way for
about nine miles, I quitted (he main road to visit the
upper, or Matilda Falls. A field track brough( me
into a scatlered village, built along a canal, cut, like
the one above-mentioned, to avoid (he falls: having
crossed it, I walked along its edge for about a quar-
ter of a mile, on a broad green-sward path, as sinoo(h
and regular as a garden terrace : a little wood was on
my right, the trees of which were fantastically
grouped together by abundance of wild vine, and
other parasitical plants, (railing and (wining (hrough
them; (he whole conveying no inadequate idea of a
stately and fair pleasure-ground of Queen Elizabeth's
time. Turning short from the canal, and stepping a
few paces (hrough (he wood, I found uiyself on a
bold precipice of rocks fron(ing (he fulls. — I s(arted
at a sight so much grander than any thing I had ex-
pected : as far as my eye could reach, (he Patomac
came down from among its woods, dashing, and
whitening over numberless ridges of rock, and break-
ing in a wild succession of cascades, till, as if weari-
ed by its own efforts, i( swep(, wi(h silent impetuo-
sity (hrough a contracted channel betwixt perpendi-
cular cliffs, whose dark, bare masses of granite were
scantily crested by a few pines and cedars. The
perpendicular descent of (he falls is reckoned by
Volney at seven(y-two feet,* but the rapids extend

III*'

c i

* *' Elle a environ 72 pirds tic hauteur, sttr 800 a 900
Je larffc : le fievvc, qui ju.squ'' aiors avail cotilk dans une
valltc bofflk dc colraux sauvages comme ceux du Rhone
en Vivarais, tomhc tout acoup, comme Ic Saint Laurent^
dans un profond ravin dc pur roc granit talLk a pic sur
les deux rives.

Volney, Climat W Amcrique, t. i.p. 125.

I fouutl mica-slate, aud porphyry about the Falls.

i- j:

THE MATILDA FALLS.

207

sr, left
cut to
;, from
acalter-
a wild
way for
Uit the
ight me
Mit, like
having
a quar-
1 smooth
1 was on
astically
ine, and
through
idea of a
izabeth*8
epping a
self on a
I started
had ex-
Patomac
ling, and
[id break-
if weari-
impetuo-
lerpendi-
[nite were
8. The
;oned by
8 extend

for several miles up the river, and (he whole scene
has a magnificent wildness, which may be gazed
upon with delight and wonder, even after Niagara;
so inexhaustibly can nature vary her features, and
be alike gracefully sublime in all."^

* It is remarkable, that Mr. Jefferson, so accurate in bit
■otices of Virgiaia, makes do mentiou of these falls.

t;/:

■,v

'■ ■ */

/• r.

-':^.

loo o 900
dam une

\du Rhone
Lavrcntt
a pic sur

*t*

It. p. 125.

' [ 208 ]

CHAPTER XXXI.

,;, HARPER'S FERRY. - *■ /

U ' f

J. HE road which ascends the right bank of the Pa-
tomac, through Lansville and Leesburg, has the
credit, and I think justly, of being about the worst in
the Union. It is a common saying of roads in Vir-
ginia, that they are " not made, but created." The
soil towards the mountains is generally a stiff clay,
and as each waggoner works his own way through
the woods, the traveller is continually puzzled betwixt
the equal probabilities of a variety of tracts, most of
whi^h, indeed, lead to the same point, but as this is
not invariably the case, he must often journey on in
doubt, or halt in muddy perplexity until he can pro-
cure information. The villages are thinly scattered,
but well.buill of brick, an advantage derived from
the soil. Leesburg contains about 1200 inhabitants.
The inn at which t stopped, had stabling for above
an hundred horses, for the accommodation of faraiers
who come together on Court days. These court
days are almost county meeJings ; those who have
business attend for business sake, (hose who have
none attend to meet their neighbours, who may have
business with them, and because it is discreditable
to be often absent.

At Hilsborough, the road passes through a moun-
tain gap, resembling the Wind Gap, on a small scale :
this ridge is called the Short Mountain, and runs
parallel to the Blue Elid>>;e, at the distance of about
five miles ; it crosses the Patomac below Harper's

■ f ■

I'i

harper's ferry.

209

r--'V< li

the Pa-
has the
; worst in
I in Vir-
." The
itiflf clay,
through
id betwixt
3, most of
as this is
ley on in
f can pi'o-
scattered,
ed from
abitants.
or above
of farmers
Bse court
ho have
nho have
may have
creditable

Ferry, and I am inchncd to consider it as the same,
which M. Volney observed near Cohimbi» Ferry,
betwixt York and L-tncaster, and which he is dispos-
ed to regard as the Blue Mountain itself. I should
rather leave the Blue Mountain where it stands in
the maps at present, and conjecture this collateral
ridge to be a prolongation of the Lehigh Mountain,
perhaps communicating with Monticello. Immediate-
ly after passing it, the road turns to the right and
continues betwixt it and the Blue Mountain, to which
it seems an immense out-work. The land rises gradu-
ally, nor is it until you have reached the ridge of
the descent, and find yourself looking down towards
the bed of the Patomac, and its opposite shore, that
you are aware of the elevation gained.

Here commences the savage wildness of the pic-
ture. Your road lies down the side of the mountain,
strewed with splinters and fragments of rock, which
slide from beneath your horse's feet : .immense
masses of rock project their bold angles, so as fre-
quently to leave a cranked and difficult passage ;
meantime the mountains stretching up on every
side, and partially beheld between the scattered pine
trees, seem contracting round with a deepening
breadth of shadow and gloomy' grandeur, until you
find at their base the united Patomac and Shenandoah,
boiling over their incumbered channel. Continuing
your way betwixt these waters, and the ragged pre-
cipices of the Blue Mountain, through which they
seem to have burst, you reach the Shenandoah
Ferry : but a sketch will best illustrate the locaU
of this extraordinary scene.

a moun-

nall scale :

and runs

of about

Harper's

I'l

210

harper's ferrt.

I descended by the road A. The village is built
round fhc loot of 1 he height B: if is chiefly remar-
kable for a maniifacfory of siniill arms, about 10,000
stand of which are finished yearly : " They make
as many in a week at Birmingham," said one of the
workmen, who had been formerly employed there,
lo m?. It is from this height, immediately above
the village, and from a broad bare platform of Rook,
known bv the name of Jefferson's rock, that the eye
co:ntnands the magnificent prospect which Mr. Jeffer-
son has so eloquently, yet correctly described.
" Yon stand on a very high point of land. On your
right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along
the foot of the mountain an hundred miles to seek a
vent. On your left approaches the Patoroac, in
quest of a pasitage al^o. In the moment of their
jUQCtion, they rush together against the mountain,

I I

harper's ferry.

211

atoroac, in

rend it asunder, and pass ofT to the sea. The first
glanre of this scene hurries our senses into the opin-
ion, (hat this earth has been created in time, that
the mountains were formed tir^t, that the rivers be-
gan to flow jfterwardi) ; (hiit in ihis place particular-
ly, they have oeen daaniied up by tlie Blue ridge of
mountains, and have formed an ocean \vhi.;h filled
the whole valley ; that continuing to rise, they have
at length broken over at this spot, and have torn (he
mountain down from its s^iiminit (o ils base. The
piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on (he
Shenandoah, the evident marks of (heir disrupture
and avul^iion from their beds by the most powerful
agen(s of na(ure, corroborate (he impression. But
the dis(an( finishing which na(ure has given to the
picture, is of a very different character. I( is a true
contrast to The foreground. It is as placid and de-
lightful, as that is wild and tremendous. For (he
mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your
eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue
horizon, at an infinite distance in (he plain couidry,
inviting you, as it were, from the rio( and (umult
roaritig around, to pass through the breach and par-
tit ipaie of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately
composes itself; and (hat way (oo, the road iiappens
actually to lead. You cross (he Patomac above the
juncdon, pass along i(s side through the base of the
mountain for three miles, its (errible precipices hang-
ing in fragments over you, and wi(hin about '20 miles
reach Fredericktown, and (he fine coun(ry round it.
This scene is worth a voyage across (he Atlanlick:
yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural
Bridge, are people, who have passed their lives with-
in half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey
these monuments of a ilrar between liivers and moim-
tains which must have shaken the earth itself to iti
centre." — Notes, p. '27.

Crossing Harper's Ferry, I ascended with some (oil
Ike mountain precipice, C, on the left of the Pato-

212

harper's fgrrV.

t .

iii

ftiac. The side it presents to the river, broken and
perpendicular, its disjointed and confused strata, with
enormous musses of rock jutting out, and impending
above its base, seem to testify the catastrophe by
which it has been rent asunder: from its summit I
co;nmanded a magnificent prospect of the Shennndoah
Valley, bounded on either side by the North and Biu«
Mountain ridges, like gigantick walla, with the blue
peaks of the Fort IVlounlain, rising at the distance of
about fifty mites to the south-west. M. Volney esti*
myites the height of the Biue Ridge, at this spot, at
1150 feet, ll is chiefly composed of flint, freestone,
and some granite, but the point B is schislus. Canall
hiive been cut to turn the rapids of both rivers.
Flour is the article chiefly brought down, in long flat
boats, which carry about eighty barrels earh. The
navigation, as may be supposed, is both diflicult and
dangerous. I found the inn here tolerably good, but
the charges extravagant ; a circumstance my landlord
indirectly explained, by telling me of the many
travellers whom curiosity brou£:ht to the spot, rather,
it should seem, to discover if it possesl any peculiar
virtue to rid them o.' their time and money, than to
admire its beauties. He was also haunted by a class
of customers of a very different stamp, wealthy and
penurious farmers, from whom he could extract noth-
ing : he instanced two, who had lately slept at his
house, after laying out very large sums at a neigh-
bouring cattle fair : (hey slept, took their meals, and
paid a bill of two ponce. This is economy beyond
(he flight ol an English miser. They brought their
baton with them, requested permission to spread
thf'iv bl:uikots on the floor, and took two glasses of
wliishey in the morning tor the good of the house. I
found my host graduated his charges according (o
wlial one set of his cuHlomers would, and what he
thoiitzhl tlie other shovltl spend ; by which means I
paid for the opposite vices of both.

1 1

[213]

jken and
rala, with
npending
ophe by
summit I
ennncioah
and Bine
the blue
Htance of
Iney cstU
I spot, at
Ireestone,
Canals
Ih rivers,
n long flat
rh. The
fficult and
good, but
y landlord
the many
)ot, rather,
y peculiar
y^ than io
by a class
allhy and
tract noth-
ept at his
a neigh-
leals, and
beyond
ght their
|to spread
jlansies of
Ihouse. I
[ording to
what he
means I

CHAPTER XXXII.

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY.

The Bhie Ridge, and North Mountain, having cross-
ed the Patoiuac, bound a valley, about twenty niii^s
wine at its greatest breadth on the P.itornar, and
narrowing, almost to a point, beyond the Natinal
bridge, a length of ahont IKO oiiles. It is wtiined
by the many branches of the Shenandoiili, a few of
which rise in the North Mountain, but the greater
number among the spurn of both ridges, wiieie they
nearly meet, in the neighbourhood of Staunton and
Waynesborough. The two piiiM:ipal branches, call-
ed the North and South Rivers, are peparated by a
ridge, named, from the peculiarity of it» form, the
Fort Mountain, which divides the valley longitudi-
nally for above iifty miles, and terminates near the
village of Port Republick. The basis of the noil is
limestone, the strata of which are every whrre visible,
ranging, (says Mr. Jefferson,) " as the mountains and
sea-coast do, from south-west to north-east, the lami-
na of each bed declining from the horizon towards a
parallelism with (he axis of (he earth." Notes, p.
42. The whole valley is remarkably fertile, parti-
cularly in wheal, so that Winchester, as a corn mar-
ket, his more than a nominal resend)lance to its
Hampshire namesake, ft has been built about sixty
years : (he houses are, for (he mos( part, small, and
either log, plank, brick, or s(one, according to their
date, or (he means of (heir inhabitants : the nundtei of
these was estimated at 2,500 by the last census, btit
there is a considerable portion of negroes. 1 hud a

■- /

•> I

!. \

214

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY.

I'l

direction to a boarding-house kept by a Mrs. Street,
and can conscientiously recommended ber neat apart-
ments and good table to the attention of future tra-
vellers. The return of crops through the valley is
averaged at about twenty busheh ot wheal per acre.
Gypsum is generally used at the cost of from thirty
to forty dollars per ton. The farmeis, (for here we
get quit of planters and plantations,) are reckoned
rich and penurious. It is probable enough, their
habits of expense are upon a very different scale
from those of the planters, but the luxury of the few
is ever atoned for by the poverty of the many.

There are more farm-houses and fewer negro huts
in this valley, than in the Lowlands : still, however,
the plague-spot is too evident. At every tavern
advertisements are stuck up for rimaway slaves : the
bai'barnus phraseology in which they were drawn up,
sometimes amused,^ but the ferocious spirit of le-
venge they too plainly expressed more frequently
disgusted me.

A country must have very bold features to be in-
teresting in winter: the Shenandoah Valley should
be visited when the harvest is yellow on iiH ample
fields: the roads were, however, good, even at this
season, except that when crossed by limestone strata
they were rather rough. The weather, too, was tine,
and the thermometer frequently up to TOo, with a
south-west wind.

The Fort Mountain commences near Stratford :
it is named from bf;iug accessible but by one road,
but the top of it is flat, and I was told there were
many hundred acres of very good land on it. The
inhabitants of the valley are remarkably clean in their
houses: 1 stopped at a little tavern near the Big
Spring, on the floor of which one might have dined:
to be sure it did not seem a house of great resort,
but I had, subsequently, cause to make comparisons

'*' I roineiuiL>er a negro being described as " Cliunkmade."

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY.

21d

^liunkmade."

on this point, rt»iicl. to lis advantage, particularly at
Richmond. The Big Spring gushes from a knoll
ol limestone behind tht tavern, ai.d almost immeili-
ateiy turns a mill, and escapes down a glen, dark
with cedars and pine-trees, Some fine views of the
mountains present themselves a little above Harrison-
burg. On entering the village, J inquired, of a res-
pectable looking farmei, for 'he best tavern : be con-
ducletl me to one kept by him^^elf, which it was' lucki-
ly no prejudice in him to cull the best. Mr. Dufi'^s
person and appearance pleased me : hf was a very
personification of Farmer Dimuiond ; tali, u.id of an
athletick make, with a gait firm and erect, and his
dark hair slightly grizzled, curled above a counte-
nance of n)anly beauty, beaming with good humour.
He made n\e. very welcome, and entered into a lively-
gossip ; while his wife, a neat and somewhat cpiaint
picture of guod huuscwiferyj prepared a comtbrtable
dinner, after which, over a few glasses of negus, I
soon became acquainted with whatever was worth
knowing of the coiujiry. The village, Mr. DiilT in-
formed nie, had formerly been remarkable lor the
vicious habits of its iuhabilunts ; but a complete
reformation had lately taken place through the agen-
cy, not of preachers, but of the Giand Jury, who
had imposed upon themselves the duly of receiving
informations in cases of quarrels, swearing, drunken-
ness, and other habits of low vice, and had put the
laws into force against the otit-nders with such good
effect, that scarcely an oath was to be heard, or a
drunken man seen in the township. Mr. Duff wa«
himself an excellent specimen of the best part of
his neighbours ; though extremely lively, and fond
of conversation, he never uttered an iintiioral expres-
sioM, and declared, that 'he glass ul negus he look
with me was more than he had taken of spirits for
several years. His difpo-^iiion sc( tiie«l in a high de-
gree Irieiidly and lu'iirvoieiii ; vet, mark liie wither-
ing effect ol slavery on the mural feelings! he was

. /•

^1'

'st

216

THE SHENANDOAH VALLEf.

r ■ '

.1 '•

talkins; of the different ways men had in that part
of Mie roiintry of (iiakin.£; money. "Some," said
he, " piircfiase droves of hogs, oxen, or horses, in
one p;itf of the Union, and ^irive them for sale to
anotliei ; and some bny negroes in the same way,
and litive ihem, chained together, to different mar-
ket < : I expect two gentlemen here this evening with
a di'ove." 1 expressed my horronr of such traffick ;
h« oivilly assented to my observation, but plainly
without any si/nilar feeling, and spoke of the genlle-
^men he expected, as if they were just as " honour-
al)!e men," as any other fair dealers in the communi-
ty : luckily 1 was not cursed with their company.
I 'lever chanced to fail in with one of these human
droves, but I borrotv from a pleasing little work,
written by a Vu'ginian, and entitled, "Letters from
Virginia," the following description which he gives
ill the character of a foreigner newly landed at
Norloik.

" { look the boat this morning, and crossed the
ferry over to Ports»noiith, the srnall town which I
toid you is opposite to this place. It was court
diy, and a iiiri;a crowd of people was gathered
nljoul tne door oi' the Court House, i had hardly
got upon the stejts to look in, when my ears were
arf!»i)lod bv the voice of singing, and turning round
to <lisi'over fron what quarter it came, [ saw a group
of abdut thirty negroes, of different sizes and ages,
folli»A'i!i;r a rough-looking whit** man, who sat care-
le^^U iiliing in his sukey. They had just turned
ro;i I I the corner, and were coming up (he main
Streot to pass by the spot where I stood, on their
Wav oil! of to Vfi. \< they cane nearer, I saw some
of tneiu loultMi wiUi chains to prevent their es-
cape ; while oHiers had hold of each other's hands,
8ii>»rnly grasji^d, a<i if to siipoorl themselves in their
atflciioii. I pirtlcularly noticed a poor mother,
Willi an iiiraiit ssi<*>{ii<; at her breast as she walked
along, while two small children had nold of her

li !

)

■-^i

tiat part
e," said
jrses, in

sale to
me way,
ent mar-
ning with

trafBcIc ;
t plainly
e gentle-
" honour-
cominuni-
cornpany.
je human
tie work,
tters from

he gives
landed at

ossed the
1 which I
was court
gathered
ad hardly
ears were
ing round
w a group
and ages,
sat care-
ist turned
the main
on their
saw some
their es-
's hands,
s in their
mother,
walked
d of her

1*HE SHENAITDOAH TALLET.

217

apron on either side, almost running to keep up with
the rest. They came along singing a little wild
hymn, of sweet and mournful melody, flying by a
divine instinct of the heart to the consolation of
religion, the last refuge of the unhappy, to support
them in their distress. The sulky now stopped
before the tavern, at a little distance beyond the
court-house, and the driver got out. < My dear Sir,'
(said 1, to a person who stood near me,) ' can you
tell me what these poor people have been doing?
What is their crime ? and what is to be their punish-
ment V * O, (said he,) its nothing at all, but a
parcel of negroes sold to Carolina, and that man is
their driver, who has bought them.' * But what
have they done, that they should be sold into ban-
ishment V * Done, (said be,) nothing at all that I
know of, their masters wanted money, I suppose,
and these drivers give good prices.' Here the driv-
er having supplied himself with brandy, and his horse
with water (the poor negroes of course wanted noth-
ing,) stepped into his chair again, cracked his whip
and drove on, while the miserable eiilea followed
in funeral procession behind him."

• >.

' . , i

!•

■if

V,' (I

J I

■^,

[218 1

• 1 ; -

CHAPTER XXXIII.

THE CAVES.

;Ji

;i(!

Aboitt a mile from Harrisonburg, there is a roaji
wbii h turns to the left ; it crooHes the north and
middle forks of the South Shenandoah, and passea
round the southern extremity of the Fort Mountain,
through a well settled country, to Port Republic.k ;
from this village the distance is about a mile to the
Cave tavern. A hill, reckoned at 200 feel of per-
pendicular height, rise» on the left bank of the south
fork, the ascent of u'hirh is so steep, that, as Mr.
JettiBrson obser\e8, " you may pitch a biscuit from
its summit into the river." The entrance into the
Caves \n about ttvo-thirds of the way up ; the one
Mr. Jeflfer»'oii has described. Notes p. 31. by the
name of IVI.\(li»on*8 Cave, is used for the purpose
of making ^uiNpetre, and seldom visited from curiosi-
ty ; its aitrnction having been destroyed by the
dlwrovery of armiher cavern of !>nperiour extent and
grundeur, m the same cliff, a few yards beyond it.
Being private property, and much frequented by
8tranu;ers, the entrance is kepi closed. The pro.
prieior, an old German, acts as guide, provides lightSi
&c. and seems to feel much interest in his office,
when be attends persons whom he thinks capable of
appreciating (he scene.

Tlie eniranoe afforded mere crawling room, but

as we receded from the light of day, the vaulting

rose, and after descending some rude steps and

crag«, we began to perambulate a magnificent sub-

^ terranean palace. Its length if reckoned at 800

v.-r

: <k C

"fo^^J

^f.c

18 a road
north and
ind passes
Mountain,
iepublick ;
rnile to the
'eel of per-
)f (lie south
at, as Mr.
iscuit from
ce into the
p ; the one
31. by the
le purpose
■om curiosi-
ed by the
extent and
beyond it*
:]uenied by
The pro.
ides tightfli
his office,
capable of

room, but
le \aulling

steps and
iifiuent sub-
led at 800

THB CATEB.

219

yards, and taking the curvatures of the numerous
apartments it may be as much : there are about
14 of them, of various dimensions ; some low-browed
and studded with pointed, and glittering titalactiies,
like fairy grottoes, others long and spacious, with
roofs so lofty, that the summits of the massive con-
gelations, which, pillar-like, descend from them to
the ground, are shrouded in obscurity. The. largest
of these apartments, called Washington's hall, is 93
yards in length, of a proportionate ureadth, and pro-
bably 50 feet high.

It is impossible to describe the solemn grandeur of
this natural cathedral : clusters of stalactitick columns,
many of them ten or twelve feet in circumference,
rise in magnificent order along the sides ; their co-
lour is of a glistening brown, with frequently a shaft,
a pedestal, or an intercolumniation of snowy white-
ness. On approaching the upper end, our lights
gleamed upon a giganiick stalactite, which, in the
dimness, bore some resemblance to a throneii statue
of alabaster ; it is called Washington's statue ; but
this appellation, like many other misnomers and con-
ceits, such as Solomon's throne, David's sceptre,
Adam and Eve in Paradise, which the guide forces
on your notice as you proceed, serves only to create
a tiresome distraction of the attention, by introducing
ideas peculiarly ill suited to a scene, in which na-
ture is working alone in power and beauty, regard-
less of the existence of man and his passions.
There is scarcely a turn in the cavern which does
not present some curious specimen of her sportive
creation, at one time imitating the folds of gorgeous
drapery ; at another, representing a water-fall, which
leems to have been suddenly converted into marble ;
here she has chiselled out the model of a Gothick
oratory ; there adorns a large sitting-room, with
flowers and rural implements. The larger columns,
being hollow, give out, when forcibly struck, a deep
and melodious sound, which heard in the remoter

'W'iMlP

220

THE «ATES>

I •

ir 1

caverns, bas the effect of fine muiick. What a Py-
thian dwelling for old Huperstition I*

I found verj good quarlers at Staunton, and spent
the evening agreeably, in company with a young
American sailor, who had served af the Battle of
Plattsburg. He related some anecdotes, which hi*(^
fallen under bis own observation, of the behav' *'
of imprest seamen, which induced me to wish inis
rotten portion of our naval system exterminated.
While coping with inferiour foes, some errours may
be afforded, but when "Oieek meets Greek," the
careless fastening of a vizor-clasp may decide the
contest.

Betwixt Staunton and Lexington, the villages
have a mean appearance. At Middlebrook, while
my horse was feeding, several of the inhabitants
collected round my waggon, and finding it of a
fashion unusual in their country, concludea 1 could
be no ordinary person, so they begged to know if
I was not the showman, who had been exhibiting
in the neighbourhood, and whose fame had pre-
ceded his arrival at this village : upon my assuring
them I was no such distinguished character, (for I
believe the inquiry rather implied a compliment,)
they contented themselves with taking notes and
dimensionH of my equipage, and we civilly parted.
The valley narrows towards Lexington, and the face
of the country becomes in consequence more wild
and uneven, being broken into paps and short hills,
shooting out from the North, and Blue ridges, and
thus piesenting a succesHion of deeply wooden glens
and mountain, very agreeable after the level uni-
formity of the upper part of the valley. Lexing-
ton is a brisk-looking little town, and having a col-
lege, is the literary capital of the upper parts of

"' I found the heat of the Cavern oppressive ; it was a sharp
frost without, the thermometer at 30° ; in Washington's Hall
it rose to 64^ ; tlie vapour from within had completely thaw-
ed the vicinity of the entrance.

THE GATES.

221

iat a Py-

ind spent
a young
Battle of
hich bj»«*
)ehav' *
wish inis
rminated.
ours may
lek," the
Bcide the

i Tillages
ok, while
nhabitants
; it of a
r 1 could
know if
exhibiting
had pre-
asBuring
er, (for I
ipliment,)
lotes and
parted,
the face
lore wild
ort hills,
Iges, and
len glens
vel uni-
Lexing-
ing a col-
parts of

las a sharp
ton's Hall
tely thaw-

Virginia. Arriving early in the day, I inquired for
a saddle horse to ride over to the Natural Bridge;
the landlord of the tavern at which 1 stopped im-
mediately set out with me in search of one, and I
reached the Bridge tavern, as it is called, the same
evening. 1 found it a substantial stone house, and
all in a bustle, for a party of young men had met to
have a dance ; they were, however, scantily sup-
plied with partners, the ladies of llie neighbourhood
•having, either from caprice or devotion, Tor the most
part (lecliiied their invitation ; they, Jiowever, used
mefriiy the means they had. While the amuse-
ments were going on in the publick room, I walked
into the parlour, to be a little out of the noise ; an
ungracious term, but the mirth in which we have no
share, will sometimes sound harshly, and so it did
to other ears than mine, though for a diflferent rea-
son. In this same parlour, I found a square erect
figure, in a brimmed hat, and primitive suit of dark
snufT-colour, pacing up and down with a sourness
of aspect, which, had I not been subsequently en-
lightened as to its cause, 1 might have ascrdied to a
fit of the cholick : he had already enunciated the
perturbed condition of the inward man, by several
emphatick ohs, and groans, when a merry, respec-
table looking Irishman, whom I had observed a prin-
cipal promoter of the revels, tripped in, and pre-
sently addressing himself rather to the thoughts
than the words, of my dolorous snulf-coloured friend,
observed, " Now for my soul, I cannot see any dif-
ference whether we jump about to the cat-gut, or sit
still with our hands before as ; the time is but spent
one way as well as the other." " The differerfce"
retorted the saint, (for such he now proved himself
to be,) " is that the one can be done to the gI'My
to God, and the other cannot." Alas! for the glory
of the Almighty, which one half of mankind be-
lieves itself able to exalt by jumping about, and the
other half by silting still. This sour fanaticism is,
however, gaining great ground in the States.

■"^s .V

[222

■i J

CHAPTER XXXIV.

THE NATURAL BRIDGE.

1 1 «-

To describe the Natural Bridge in any other wordfe
than those of Mr. Jefferson, would imply a stronger
feeling of lis beauty, or a greater power of descrip-
tion than his : I pretend to neilber, and a good quo-
tation is better than original insipidity.

** The Natural Bridge, the nio^t sublime of Na-
ture's works, is on the ascent of a hii<, which seeras
to have been cloven through its length by some great
convulsion. The 6ssure just at the bridge is by
some admeasurements '270 feet deep, by others, only
205 : it is about forty-five feet wide at the bottom,
and ninety feet at the top ; this of course determines
the length of the bridge, and its height above the
water. Its breadth in the middle is about sixty feet,
but more at the ends, a.v* the thickness of the mass
at the summit of the arch, about forty (eet, A part
of this thickness is constituted by a coat of earth,
which gives growth to many large trees : the resi<
due, with the hill on both sides, is one «4olid rock of
limestone. The arch approaches the semi elliptical
form; but the longer axis of the ellipsis, which would
be the chord of the arch, is many times longer than
the transverse. Though the sides of (his bridge
are provided, in some parts, with a parapet of fixed
rocks, yet few men have the resolution to walk to
them, and look over into the abyss. You involun-
tarily fall upon your hands and feet, creep to the
parapet, and peep over it. Looking down from this
height about a minute gave me a violent headacb.

■"T\

THE NATURAL BRIDOB.

223

ther words

a stronger

jf descrip-

good quo-

inie of Na-
hich seews
some great
ridge is by
others, only
he boltoodi
determines
above the
|t sixty feet,
of the mass
t. A part
t of earth,
: the resi-
lolid rock of
mi elliptical
hich would
longer than
[this bridge
pet of fixed
to walk to
on involnn-
:reep to the
n from this
it beadacb.

If the view from the top be painful and intolerable,
thai trum below is delightful in an equal extreme.
It is impossible for ttie emotions arising from the
sublime to be fell beyond what they are here : so
beautiful an arch, so elevated, ao light, and spring-
ing up as it were to heaven ! The rapture of the
spectator is really indescribable ! The fissure con-
tinuing narrow, deep, and straight, for a considerable
distance above and below the bridge, opens a short,
bu very pleasing view, of the North Mountain on
the one side, and the Blue Ridge on the other, at
the distance, each of them, of about five miles. The
stream passing under the bridge is called Cedar
Creek. It is a water of James' River, and suffi-
cient, in the dryest seasons, to turn a grist-mill,
though its tountoin is not more than two miles above."
— Notes, p. 34.

Mr. Jotierson prudently abstains from building
any hypothesis as to the origin of this natural won-
der : the Marquis de Chastellux has mure chivalrous-
ly made the attempt, by supposing that after the
draining of the larger valleys by the et«cupe of their
waters through the mountain gaps, the little valley
of Cedar Creek served as u partial reservoir, dam-
med up by the rock of the ndtiual bridge, the under
part of which they undermined, and so formed the
arch. It is ditficult, however, to conceive how a
body of water contained within this liltle ravine,
and consequently in a quiescent state, could have
force enough to break, or mine through a mas'- of
rock sixty feet in ihicknes!>: besides, this hypothe-
sis still loaves the extraordinary circumstance of a
wall of these dimensions crossing the valley, unac-
counted for. Mr. Jeilerson, in observing on Don
Ultoa's description of a similar break in the pro-
vince of Anjarez, in South America, inclines to the
opinion that in both cases the effect had been pro-
ducied by some sudden convulsion ; a less favourite,
because, perhaps, a more simple hypothesis than
the former. Mr. Jeflferson is the proprietor of the

, \

'•••<,:■, •■ < •-» » •

■ "»»♦ *"^-«'>.

224

THE NATURAL BRIDGE.

•■ I

Natural Bridge, and commonlj makea a visit once iu
the year, **Xo look upon its beautj."^

Betwixt Lexington and the bridge there are some
grand features of scenery, particularly at the mill
and village of Buffalo Greek. Betwixt Lexington
and Wayenesborough, I found the roads miry, and
the country heavy ; the villages few, and not very
pleasing in their appearance ; but in fact, the sea-
son for the picturesque was gone by, and toiling
through dark plashy woods began to be tiresome
work. I slept a night at the tavern of Rock-fish
Gap, and from the heights above the house, enjoy-
ed a last view of the valley and mountain country on
one hand, while on the other I looked down into
the lowlands, over an immense landscape of fertile
country. The soil on this side the ridge, is a tenacious
reti clay, "just," says Volney, "like the soil of
Aleppo," and continues such most of th§ way to
Richmond. w*

■: \

w.. ^

*" From the Bridge it is fourteen miles to the Peaks of
Otter. Id the maps the distance exceeds forty miles. I
found basaltick stones scattered in great abundance about a
mile from the bridge.

.■HA?«^' .

im"^ I

t1 ■>■»•

• V ■ -

..^f^>.

'■' i-v'

'i.:>-'^-

• ■'■ ■•-

'.*

. ■ : . l"i

/* '■

4 , ,

V +':.'r

(' /'■'.♦t.i •

f. ,;,

1.= ■■ V . <

/•'

- >%.> ' _ :

,..>. . ^

.J =:

i -: , •

l''^:

>' ""•"v '

- i I.- ;■ ^..» 'i ■' ■■. •

,',i;A)j:: r'p

:'»*"nl.' ;*■•-'■ .'*v.iA^^' ■^■-'

sit once in

[ 225 ]

i are some
t the mill
Lexington
miryt And
I not very
t, the aea-
ind toiling
s tiresome

Rock-fish
lae, enjoy-
country on

down into
{ of fertile
a tenacious
the soil of
the way to

the Peaks of
ty miles. I
ice arbout a

CHAPTER XXXV.

MONTICELLO.

xlAviNG an introduction to Mr. Jefferson, I ascend*
ed his little mountain on a fine morning, \vhich gave
the situation its due effect. The uhole of the sides
and base are covered with forest, through which
roads have been cut circularly, so that the winding
may be shortened or prolonged at pleasure : the sum-
mit is an open lawn, near to the south side of which
the house is built, with its garden just descending
the brow : the saloon, or central hall, is ornamented
with several pieces of antique sculpture, Indian arms,
Mammoth bones, and other curiosities collected from
various parts of the Union. 1 found Mr. Jefferson
tall in person, but stooping and lean with old age,
thus exhibiting that fortunate mode of bodily decay,
which srrips the frame of its most cumbersome parts,
leaving it still strength of muscle and activity of limb.
His deportment was exactly such as the Marquis de
Chastellux describes it, above thirty years ago :
"At first serious, nay even cold," but in a very
short time relaxing into a most agreeable amenity ;
with an unabated flow of conversation on the most in-
teresting topicks, discussed in the most gentlemanly
and philosophical (uanner. I walked with him round,
his grounds, to visit his pet trees, and improvements
of various kinds : during the walk, he pointed out to
my observation a ronical mountain, rising singly at
the edge of the soulhtrti horizon of the landscape :
its distance he said, was 40 miles, and its dimensions
tiiose of the greater Egyptian pyramid ; so that it ac-

'J9

226

MONTICELLO.

'!.

RV » !

ciiralely represents the appearance of the pyramid at
the same ilisl;'ince ; there is a small cleft visible on ita
summit, through which, the true meridian of Monti-
cello exactly passes : its most singular property, how-
ever, is, that on diflferent occasions it looms, or altera
i(:t appearance, becoming sometimes cylindrical,
sometimes square, and sometimes assuming the form
of an inverted cone. Mr. Jefferson had not been
able to connect this phenomenon with any particular
season, or state of the atmosphere, except, that it
most commonly occurred in the forenoon. He ob-
served, that it was not only wholly unaccounted for
by the laws of vision, but that it had not as yet en-
gaged the attention of philosophers so far as to ac-
quire a name ; that of looming, being in fact, a term
applied by sailors, to appearances of a similar kind at
sea. The Blue Mountains are also observed to loomi
though not in so remarkable a degree.*

It must be inieiesting to recall and preserve the
political sentiments of a man who has held so distin-
guished a station in piiblick lite as Mr. Jefferson.
He seemed to consider much of the freedom and hap-
piness of America to aiise from local circumstances.
** Our population," lie observed, " lias an elasticity,
by which it would fl}' otf from oppressive taxation."
Ho instanited the beneticial effects of a free govern-
ment, in the case of New Orleans, where many pro-
prietors who were in a state of indigence under the
dominion of Spain, have risen to sudden wealth,
lolejv by the rise in the value of land, which followed
a change of government. Their ingenuity in me-
chanical inventions, agricultural improvements, and
that uiHSH of general information to be found among
Americans of all ranks and conditions^, he ascribed to
that ease of circiimHlances, which afforded them lei-
sure to cultivate their minds, after the cultivation of

\^ V' ■

* Vide, Tor a niuro detailed account of ttiis plienomenoDi in
Notes OQ Virj^iula, p. Vi2,

i .t

MONTICfiLLO.

827

pyramid at
sible on ita
I of Monti-
»erty, how-
s, or altera
cylindrical,
g the t'orm
I not been
particular
pt, that it
. He ob-
;ounted for
as yet en-
' as to ac-
iCt, a term
ilar kind at
sd to loonii

eserve the

1 so dialin-

Jefferson.

u and hap-

jmstances.

elasticity,

taxation."

je govern-

many pro-

iinder the

It Health,

1 followed

y in me-

ents, and

nd among

icribed to

them lei-

ivation of

oDienoD, in

their lands was completed. — In fact, I have frequent-
ly been surprised to find mathematical and other
useful works in housen, which seemed to have little
pretension to the luxury of learning. Another cause,
Mr. Jefferson observed, might be discovered in ihe
many court and county meetings, which brought men
frequently together on publick buiiiness, and thus
gave them habits, both of thinking and of expressing
their thoughts on subjects, which in other countries
are confined to the consideration of the privileged
few. Mr. Jeflerson has not the reputation of being
very friendly to England : we should, however, be
aware, that a partiality in this respect is not absolute-
ly the duty of an American citizen •, neither is it to
be expected that the policy of our government should
be regarded in foreign countries, with the same com-
placency with which it is looked upon by ourselves :
but whatever may be his sentiments in this respect,
politeness natiually repressed any oflTonsive expres-
sion of them : he talked of our afTiiirs with candour,
and apparent good will, though leaning, perhaps, to
the gloomier side of the picture. He did not per-
ceive by what means we could be extricated from
our present financial einbarrassment», without some
kind of revolution in our governmt^nt : on my reply-
ing, that our habits were remarkably steady, and that
great sacrifices would be made to prevent a violent
catastrophe, be acceded to the obsrrvatioii, but de-
manded, if those who made the sacrificts, would not
require some political reformation in return. fl>^ re-
pugnance was strongly marked to the despolick prin-
ciples of Bonaparte, and he seemed to consider
France tmder Louis XVI. as scarcely capable of a re-
publican form of governnient ; but added, that the
present generation of Frenchmen had grown up with
sounder notions, which would probably leap to their
emancipation. Relative to the light in which he
views the conduct of the Allied Sovereigns, I cannot
do better than insert a letter of hii to Dr. Logan,

n'r 'r

228

MONTICELLO.

dated 1 8th October, 1815, and published in the Ame-
rican Newspapers : . k

Dear Sir, — I thank you for the extract in yours
of August 16th, respecting the Empeiour Alexander.
It arrived here a day or two after I had left this place,
from which 1 have been absent about seven or eight
weeks. I had from other information, formed the
most favourable opinion of the virtues of the Empe-
rour Alexander, and considered his partiality to
this country as a prominent proof of them. The
magnanimity of his conduct on the first capture of
Paris, still magnified every thing we had believed of
him ; but how he will come out of his present trial,
remains to be seen : that (he sufferings which France
had inflicted on other countrieis, justified some repri-
sals, cannot be questioned, but I have not yet learn-
ed what crimes Poland, Saxony, Belgium, Venice,
Lombardy, and Genoa, had merited for them, not
merely a temporary punishment, but that of perma-
nent subjugation, and a destitution of independence
and self-government. The fable of JE^op and the
Lion dividing the spoils, is, I fear, becoming true
history, and the moral code of Napoleon and the En-
glish government, a substitute for that of Grotius, of
Puffendorf, and even of the pure doctrines of the
great author of our own religion. We were safe our-
selves from Bonaparte, because he had not the Bri-
tish fleets at his command. We were safe from the
British fleets, because they had Bonaparte at their
back, but the British fleets, and the conquerors of
Bonaparte, being now combined, and the Hartford
nation drawn off to them, we have uncommon reason
to look to our own affairs. This, however, I leave to
others, offering prayers to Heaven, the only contri-
bution of old age, for the safety of our country. Be
so ;^ood as to present me affectionately to Mrs. Lo-
gan, and to accept, yourself, the assurance of my es-
teem and respect.

T. Jefpkbson."

((

I," I ■ n

aiONTICELLO.

229

he Ame-

in yours
exander.
lis place,
or eight
med the
e Ernpe-
iality to
n. The
iptiue of
lieved of
cut trial,
I) France
me repri-
fei learn-
Venice,
hem, not
►f perma-
pendencc
I and the
ing true
the En-
otiua, of
8 of the
safe oiir-
the Bri-
from the
at (heir
erors of
arlford
In reason
leave to
contri-
ry. Be
llrs. Lo-
my es-

;bson

The same anxiety for his country's independence
seems to have led him to a change of opinion on ihe
relative importance of mannfaclories in America. He
thns expresses himself, in answer lo an address from
the American society for Ihe encouragement of manu-
factories : "J have read with great ^atisiaclion, the
eloquent pamphlet you were so kind as to send me,
and sympathize with every line of it. 1 was once a
doubter, whether the labour ui tlie cultivator, aided
by the creative powers of the earth iisell, would not
produce more value than ihat ot (he manutaclurer
alone, and unassisted by the dead tmibject on which
he acted ; in other words, whether the more we could
bring into action of tl.e energies ol our boundless ter-
ritory, in addition to the labour oi our (iiizens, the
more would not be our gain. Hui the inventions of
the latter times, by labom-bitviiij: machines, do as
much now for the manutacluier, as the eailh for the
cultivator. Experience loo, Itas |;iovcd that mine
was but half Ihe cjiiestion ; the other half is, wlieilier
dollars and centtn are to be weighed in the scale against
real independence. The quesiion is ihen solved, at
least so far as respects our own Ui«nls. I much fear
the eil'ecl on our inlant establHlimtnl, of Ihe policy
avowed by Mr. Brougham, and (|iiot<Ml in the pam-
phlet. Individual British mereiinnis may lose by the
late immense imporiatiuns ; i ul Briii>h commerce and
mannfac(oi'ies in the ntass will giin, bv beating down
the competition of ours iti our own markets, &c."

The conversation tuinmg on American history,
Mr. Jeiler^ion related an anecibiie ol ihe Abbe Jtav-
nal, which serves to ^llew how lusloiy, even w hen it
calls itself |ihilosophical, is wiilicn. 'J'lie Able was
in company with l)i. Frimklin, and s«^cral Ameri-
cans a( Paris, w lit u inenlioii tliaiKed to be made oi
his anecdote of Polls Bakei, leluied in his sixth vol-
lime, upon which one ol the rompHiiv observed, (hat
no Hiich law ar* tluil alluded to in ih^- story, existed
in New England : Ihe Abbe stonily maintained the

if',.?

230

MONTICBLLO.

authenticity of iiis tale, when Dr. Franklin, who had
hitherto reniiiined silent, said, *' I can account (or all
this ; yon took the anecdote from a newspaper, of
which I was at that time edilor, and, happening to be
very short of news, 1 composed and inserted the
whole story." " Ah ! Doctor," said the Abhg mak-
ing a Irne French retreat, •' f had rather have yoiir
stories, than other men's trnlhri."

Mr. JetFerson preferred Bolta's Italian History of
the American Revolution, to any that had yet ap-
peared, remarkini;;, however, the inaccuracy of the
speeches. Indeed, the true history of that period
seems to be generally con!»i«lered as lost : A re-
markable letter on this point, lalely appeared in print,
from the venerable Mr. John Adams, lo a Mr. Niles,
who had solicited hh aid to collect and publish a
body of revolutionary spperhes. He says, " Of all
the speeches made in Coa^ress, from 1774 lo 1777 1
incl'isive, of both years, no( one sentence remains, ex-
cept a (e\9 periods of Dr. Wilherspoon, piinled in
his works." His concluding senlence is very strong.
" In plain English, and in a few wor.ls, Mr. Ndes, 1
consider the true history of the American revolution,
and the establishment of our present constitutions, as
lost for ever; and nolhing but misrepresentations,
or partial accoimts of it, will ever be reco\ered."

I slept a night at Monticeilo, and left it in the
morning, with such a feelmg as the traveller quits
the (nouldering remains of a Grecian temple, or the
pilgrim a fountain in the desert. It would indeed
argue great torpor, both of understanding and heart,
to have looked wilhont veneration and interest, on
the man who drew up the declaration of American
Independence ; who share<l in the cotmcils by which
her freedom was established ; whom the unbought
voice of his fellow-citiziMis called to the exercise of a
dignity, from which his own moderation impelled him,
when such example was most salutary, to withdraw;
and who, while he dedicates the evening of bis glo-

it.

MONTICELLO.

231

rious days to the pursuits of science and literature,
shuns none of the humbler duties of private life ; hut,
having filled a seat higher than that of kings, suc-
ceeds with graceful dignify to that of the good neigh-
bour, and beromes the friendly adviser, lawyer,' phy-
sician, and even gardener of his vicinity. This is
the " still small voice" of philosophy, deeper and
holier than the lightnings and earthquakes which
have preceded it. What monarch would venture
thus to exhibit himself in the nakedness of his huma-
nity ? On what royal brow would the laurel replace
the diadem ? But ttiey who arc horn and educated
to be kings, are not expected to be philosophers.
This is a just answer, though no great compliment
either to the governours or the governed.

My travels had nearly terminated at the Rivan-
nah, which (lows at the foot of Monticello : in trying
to ford it, my horse and waggon were carried down
the streau) : 1 escaped with my servant, and by the
aid of Mr. Jefierson's domesticks, we finally suc-
ceeded in extricating my equipage from a watery
grave. The road to Richmond follows the James
River, and has few features to attract notice. There
are no towns, and very few villages. Of the taverns,
I have only (o remark, that Mrs. Tisley's is a clean,
comfortable house, and that Mr. Powell is a very
civil landlord.

i, i

[ 232 ]

CHAPTER XXXVI.

RICHMOND.

h' '

Richmond," says (he author of " Letters from
Virginia," (and I prefer the lively tints of his pen-
cil to my own wintry colouring,) " is situated on
the north bank of Jatues River, about a hundred and
twenty miles from its mouth, at the Falls, or head
of tide water. It is built chiefly upon two lofty hills,
the northern of which is called Shockoe, (some In-
dian name I suppose,) and tiie southern, Richmond.
The former of these furnishes a fine extensive plain
on its summit, and is the p.incipal seat for dwelling-
houses, the Capitol, and other publick buildings of
the city. The two fiills are separated by a large
valley, which again is divided by a little stream that
runs murmuring through it, till it falls into the river
at the foot of them ; and piirallel to the James is a
long street, perhaps more than a mile in length,
chiefly built up with brick houses, for stores and
other pur[)oses, hence called the brick row. in a
line with this, and still nearer to the river, are small-
er streets of less importance, [irincipally 0( cupied
by warehouses, and, at the cml of it, lies the port for
vessels at the li^ad of the navigation, which they
call Rocketls. The sihialion of the place is pictur-
esque and beaufifid beyond my expectation, even
after all I had heard of it. The river before the
(own, is about l<.;!t a oiilo wide, and is obstructed,
not only by the lock^, uliich <M)ns(itute the Falls,
but by several wdd and f.uicifid islands, among which
it flows with a loud and agreeable murmur, very

RICHMOND.

23S

ers froQi

his pen-

lated on

died and

or head

afty hills,

some Ih-

ichraond.

ive plain

dwelling-

Idings ot

y a large

eain that

(he river

mes is a

length,

ores and

|v. In a

re small-

( cnpied

port for

ch they

pictur-

Hi, even

lore the

|trucled,

Falls,

Ig which

Ir, very

audible in the stillness of the night. Before you, on
the opposite side, lies the neat little village of Man*
Chester, with its fine green fields and meadows,
skirted with groves of woods, and rising hills, that
seem to undulate in the western horizon. Below,
the stream having disengaged itself from the rocks,
steals silently away from your eye, hiding itself
among the trees, and appearing again at a little dis-
tance, shining in (he sun, and reflecting the white
sails of coming and departing vessels on its silver
bosom. Besides all (his, the neighbourhood abounds
with the finest walks, prospects, groves, and, in
short, every convenience tor sighing, that (he lover
or (he poet could desire." As a drawback to
these beauties, <* the private houses are generally
without taste. They are indeed, for (he mos( part,
built of coarse bricks, blackened by being burnt with
coal, which gives rather a sombre air to the (own,
in 8pi(e of all (he gli((er of weal(h and fashion in
the streets. With the publick buildings too, where
more might be expected, the case is not a great deal
better. The Oovernour^s house is but an ordinary
affair at best. The Capitol, indeed, (though it will
not bear a critical eye,) standing on the brow of the
Shockoe hill, and overlooking the surrounding city,
and country, presents a flne bold object in the pic-
ture from almost every direction. Its interiour is di-
vided into various apartments for the publick of-
fices, courts, and the two houses of the General As-
sembly. These are spacious and convenient enough ;
but without any peculiar elegance. In the anti-
chamber, or passage, is a fine marble statue of
Washington, executed by our countryman, Uoudon,
in his best style. Opposite to it, in a niche in (he
wall, stands a bust of (he Marquis La Fayette, pro-
bably by the same artist. It is, perhaps, a strong
proof of the veneration in which the originals are
held, that the sculptures are not mutilated, (hough
they are works of taste. With regard to (he in-

234

RICHMOND.

< i

faabitanfs (always the best or worst part of a city,)
1 am sorry to say Jhey are not exactly to my taste;
that is, not all of them. Perhaps, indeed, 1 am hard-
ly well enough acquainted to form a correct judg<
ment at present ; but I must confess they do not
strike me very agreeably at first sigh». At least, the
higher classes (as they doubtless consider themselves
in spite of their republican government) appear to
have put on a set of manners by which they proba-
bly design to please themselves, for they surely can-
not intend to please any body else. These generally
live in a state of ambitious rivalship with one another,
each endeavouring to surpass his neighbour in fash-
ion and folly, a very unprofitable contest at best.
After these gentry, however, (who, indeed, are chief-
ly of foreign extraction, I believe,) you may meet
with many of the true old Virginia breed, frank,
generous, and hospitable, whom it is a real pleasure
to shake by the hand. For- the ladies, they are
generally like the rest of their fair, countrywomen,
and certainly exhibit a great deal, if not * all, that
the eye looks for, and the heart desires in woman.' "
— Letter xxi.

It is not to be expected that my experience of a
week empowers me either to confirm, or refute, this
censure : as far, however, as it went, I found the in-
habitants of Richmond polite and affable, and well
disposed to admit strangers to tfteir societies and
amusements.

Of the Virginian character, generally, my impres-
sions were not favourable. They seem, especially
the plantation* bred Virginians, to have more preten-
sion than good sense : the insubordination, in which
they glory, both to parental and scholastick authority,
produces, as might be expected, a petulance of man-
ner, and frothiness of intellect, very unlike what we
may imagine of the old Romans, to whom, in their
modesty, the Virginians affect to compare themselves.
— Having given four Presidents to the United States,

RICHMOND.

235

woman.

they are fain to 8uppos>e they have obtained a mono-
poly of genius, as well as of power, and hold in true
regal disdain the honest simplicity of their Yankey
brethren. These observations do not, however,
apply to (he inhabitants of the Upper Country, who
seem to be generally a race of plain industrious farm-
ers, with both the sound sense, and unaffected man-
ner, peculiar to this class of people throughout the
Union.

As the Virginians feel destined to govern, and as
persuasion is a necessary instrument for this purpose,
eloquence is their favourite study ; but one of their
contrymen is best able to describe their efforts and
success : — " The people of this State insist upon it,
that they have the patent right for making speeches.
Eloquence, indeed, (of some sort or other) is almost
the only road to fame and influence in the State.
Every youth, of course, who has been led to believe
that be has any talents at all, immedialely turns his
whole attention to the science of spouting. The
consequence is, that (he land is literally over-rua
with orators of all sorts and sizes, almost as numerous
and noisy as the frogs in the plague of Egypt. — In the
first place, we have (hepolificalspou(ers,who are found
in every hole and corner of the favoured land ; but
particularly in the court-yard and tavern. The ta-
vern, especially, seems to be a very favourite haunt for
.these young orators ; whether it is that the long porch
invites thetn by certain classical associations, from
its resemblance to (he schools of some among the
ancient rhetoricians ; or rather, as others sup-
pose, that the bar-room contains some secret stimu-
lants of eloquence, more sovereign than all the pre-
cepts of Quintilian. Jt is, indeed, very amusing to
hear one of these talking Jacks (as you may call
them,) when it has been properly screwed up, seated
by the tire, and unwinding itself in long disr;>urses
upon liberty, the rights of man, the freedom of the
seas, general suffrage, or something of that sort. Its

,n|

■

•4,

■

236

RICHMOND.

whole conversation is one incessant harangue. In-
deed, to speak strictly, it never converses at all;
but declaims upon you without any reasonable allow-
ance for the delicacy of your ears. And yet, really
when it cocks its feet up against the mantle-piece,
its favourite oratorical attitude, and lets out, as ihej
call it, you can form no idea how eloquent it is. —
Next in order to these come the ' Fourth of July
Orators,* or as they would doubtless prefer to be
styled, the ' Orators of the Human Race.' These
are men who set up once a year (generally in very
hot weather) to proclaim their independence with a
loud voice, and abuse the British con amore. In
fact, they sometimes carry their malice so far, as to
vent their spite upon the very language they speak
in, its unoffending parts of speech, and innocent rules
of syntax, only because they are English, I presume.
Nothing seems to be requisite for the perfection of
these things, but a plenty of hard names, abuse against
tyranny and oppression, a panegyrick upon liberty,
and five or six apostrophes to the dead heroes of
the revolution ; the whole accompanied with an en-
tire new set of mouths and faces made on purpose
for the occasion. Add to this, the words selected
for this service must all be as long as possible, ses-
quipedalia verba; or tri-syltables at least; and none
under that size should be received, any more than
a man under six feet could have been admitted into
the King of Prussia's tall regiment. I can only say
of them, as poor Desdetnona said of the wad speech*
es of her jealous husband,

** I understand a fury in the words ;
•' But not tlie words — "

"But besides these engaging speakers, we have
still another class of orators, called Slang-whangers,
who are also sometimes known by the name of Stump-
orators, from their generally choosing to deliver

i\ '■:)

RICHMOND.

'237

ngue. In-
ies at all ;
tbie allow-
yel, really
ntle-piece,
il, as ihey
[)t il is. —
h of Juljr
;fer to be
.' These
y in very
ice with a
more. In
far, as to
hey speak
)cent rules
I presume,
ifection of
use against
)n liberty,
heroes of
ith an en-
[) purpose
selected
sible, ses-
and none
i)ore than
iUed into
only say
d speech*

we have

hangfcrs,
Stiunp-
deliver

tbeir harangues from the stump of a free, or a horse-
block, or sodie other appropriate place of this sort.
For you must know, these are the men who under-
take to resuiafe elections, and to ciiange the votes
in the courl-viird, before the opening of the poll. I
have observed they are all passionately fond of the
w>ird Republican ; which seems to comprise all the
excellence of oraiory in itself, and is generally look-
ed upon a>> a very good substitute for both reason
and cotntnon sense." — Letters from Virginia, — Let-
ter xxii.

The same lively writer thus describes the impor-
tation of foreign impostors, who play ofl' on the cre-
dulity of his countrymen :

" All I'uii nations of Europe are very generous to
«s in tliM way, and we have no right to complain of
any of Ihein for not furnishing its full quota. In-
deed, thfy all seem to pity our poor republicanism,
anf4 very cheerfully club their mites to give us a de-
cent stock of their cast-off gentry, to keep up our
credit in the world. Our old friend, Great biitain,
in particular, is very good to us ii fleed. Peihaps
she thinks it but right to make us some amends for
the shabby population she gave i;s to begin with.
However this may be, nhe is ceitaiuly most bountiful
in her sujiplies of great men : though to be sure she
does not sen ! her grand dignitaries themselves, but
only their cousins and acquaintances, — good enough
for our market. Thus we can shew men who have
corrected the speeches of Pitt, at his own request,
rattled a box with Charles, or even betted against the
Prince of W.des at Newmarket ; but, after all, these
are little fellows by the side of the French marquisses
and 'uarshals of the empire." — Letter xxiii.

This cullability of Virginians the writer attributes
to \ unity, and a pa3!i>ioi) for whatever comes from
Europe, to wliu'h ihey are still in (he habit of look-
ing up for moiie'ft in every thing: — "Above all,"
he adds, " Republicans as they are, they have a hu-

I !

A .

i,.'

238

BiCHMOIfD.

man hankering after lords and gentry ; and, as beg-
gars must never be choosers, it is rie;ht for fhern to
put up with such as they can get." — Letter xxiii.

Let me close these extracts (and ihey contain, per-
haps, no little satirical exaggeration) with a trait of
feeling, which, as an Englishman, I cannot but con-
sider as honourable to the Virginian character. The
Attorney General of the State, at a late publick din-
ner, gave as a toast, " Wilson, Bruce, and Hutchin-
son ! The age of chivalry is not past, nor the glory
of Europe extinguished for ever."

[ 250 ]

, as beg-
r them to
r xxiii.
itain, per-
a trait of

but con-
er. The
blick <Vm-

Hutchin-
the glory

CHAPTER XXXVII.

RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.

Jan.

Manchistir

1 1-2 Milef

17th,

Peimsbiirg

22 1-2

Billii'gs Tavern

Hanisiviiie

23 1-2

Fprcival's Tiivera .

11 14

Gholsoii's Tavern

9 1-2

I8th,

North Carolina

13 3 4

Warrpnion

16 3 4

19th,

Lotiishiirg

Adcijck's Tavern

1* 1-2

20th,

Raleiji;!) .

16 14

Averisboro'

.•^5

2lst,

Fayetteville .

25 1-2

CoiinRell'!- Tnvern .

15 14

Luiiibeiton

W 1-2

Rowland's Tavern .

13 3-4

South Carolina

6 3 4

22d,

Kewsome's Tavern .

11 3-4

Stage house

13 34

G. Pedee River

14 12

Lynch's Creek

4 12

China Grove . ,

15 1-2

Blrtcii River .

7 1-2

23d,

Georgetown

Santfe Rivnr .

15 3-4

Tweflen Cottons

10 1 4

Wapetaw Church .

17 1-2

Greenwich

14 34

24th,

Charleston

3 3 4

421 3-4

A. OLANCB at the foregoing table indicates the Btate
of the country. The stages arr no longer marked
by towns and villages, ImK by solitary taverns and
Btage-houaes. The best part of the country lies be-
twixt Petersburg and Faye<' \':\\e, being within the
limits of the granite ledge ■ Hie noil is a mixture of

240

RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.

Fi ' A

sand and clay, tolerably fertile : the woods are g,ene'
rally of oak, hickory, and walnut, with here and there
pine-barrens, and swatnps : — bii( I can say little of
the state or appearance of the Carolinas, for at
Richmond I exchanged my con\enient Dearborn for
a seat in the mail, to be conveyed at its discretion to
Charleston.

In New En«:land they have adopted the fashion of
our staee-coaches ; but the primitive *' ilemocratical
machine*' is still used in the Southern stales; to em-
bark in one of which is no light service, for they
break down on an avera£;e twice a week, mo that the
wrecks and the maimed are always to be found on the
road. Betwixt Richmond and Petersburg all was
well : the weather was fine, and our horses ran away
but twice, killed but one pig, and lamed but one pas-
senger : but on the morning of the 18th the wind
came from south to north-west, and brought down
the thermometer to 14" with a heavy fall of snow, in
which we set off in the dark, packed in every posture
of purgatory, with trunks, packages and elbows,
squeezing and distorting our shivering limbs, while
we were, at the same time, cheered with the anticipa-
tion of being upset among the holes and swamps,
which, now concealed by snow, were to be guessed
at in the dark by our negro coachman, who, to do
him justice, managed the matter with what seemed to
me, miraculous dexterity. 1 was not sorry to halt at
Warrenton, and await the next day's mail ; but in one
night the Roanoke was frozen over, and the ferry
stopped, so I went on to Fox's tavern, near Louis-
burg, in a private conveyance with a gentleman 1 fell
in with at the tavern.

I had occasion, during (his part of my journey, to
feel the truth of a common remark, that one suflTers
more through cold in a temperate, or even warm cli-
mate, than in a cold one. The cold in Canada is so
completely subdued by stoves within, and furs with-
out uoors, that it seldom causes inconvenience ; where-
an in Carolina, where I expected to have escaped

RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.

ire g.ene-
irid there
r little of
I, for at
»boi») for
: re lion to

'ashlon of
riocratical
3 ; to em-
for they
> that the
nd on the
r all was
ran aveay
I one pas-
the wind
rht down
snow, in
y posture
d elbows,
bs, while
anlicipa-
swarnps,
£;iiesMed
10, to do
ceaied to
to halt at
lilt in one
he ferry
r Louis-
lan 1 fell

irncy, to
|e nuflfers
irarm cli-
lada is so
[irs with-
; where-
escaped

its dominion, it made travelling highly disagreeahle.
The houses are all built of scantling, and are worse
than any thing in the form of dwellings, but the ne-
gro huts ; for they are penetrable at every cre-
vice ; while, from the usual mildness of the weather,
doors have become altogether released from the duty
of beina shut. Indeed they have seldom a latch,
and Ml. Fox, to whom I was deploring this neglect,
observed, that they generally considered a door's
being shut as a sign nobody was at home. It must,
however, be noticed, that they had not, for many
years, experienced such a severe cold as the present.
The crew of a schooner, on lake Ponchrtrtrain, was
frozen to death on the l!'lh. On the same dav the
mercury descended, at BHJlimore, to tJ" below zero,
a moie intense cold than was ever remembered to
biive been felt there. At Charleston it was down to
17", and I found all the oiMiige-trees wilh their fiiiit
looking as if seared by fne. Near Raleigh a man
was frozen to death on the 19th, yet, when I was
there, on the 2lsl, the thernmtnrler rone to 71°.

Raleigh is the capital of North Carolina, an<t seems
a clean, little country town. At one enil of ihe prin-
cipal, or rather, only street, stands the Governour'i
brick-house, and at the other the senate, or court-
house, surrounded by a grass plot neatly laid out.
Tiie houses are »:mall, and built of scantling. Some
of them have their foundations of the talcons granite
of the ledge, which is the oidy stone in the country.
The total want of limestone, and scarcity of brick
earth, render it extremely dilficnlt and expensive,
to give bnihlings any »le:i;ree of s'ubilily. The stage
stops half a day at Ralcip;!!, which enabled me to
have a morning's (piail shooting wilh two gentlemen,
one of whom had fallen in love wilh my pointer, on
my alighting at the tavern; and if any conclusion
can be drawn fioin two chance spct'imens, society
at Raleigh is by no means in a pitiable condition.

At Fayelteville the road again crosses Ihe granite
ledge, and traverses n desolate tract of swamp and

•I

Kd*-

i '1

I'! ■■ ';:

;:.| \

242

RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.

qandy pine-u-ooiis to Georgetown. In all this dis-
tance, Luiiiberlon is the onl^ clump of bouses te
wliit h loiirlesy can apply the name of a village :
the tavern here is kept by a general of militia, who
seemed, indeed, to have more of the spirii of the sol-
dier than of the landlord, for he declined taking pay-
ment for the refreshment he verv civilly prepared
for me. A tract of couniry like (he above can have
litlle variety of srenery ; the hea\y dreariness of the
pine-barrens was, however, somelimes relieved by
the verdure of the swamps, whirh were ro\ered with
bii:fht evergreens, through which the road frequent-
ly ran for some distance, as through a puik shrub-
bery.

Our passage of (he Pedee was picturesque enoughi
but the coloiiting was something too Hornbre to be
beautiful: we approached the river at night; several
Greeks were previously to be crossed ; a heiivy show-
er had fallen and frozen on its desienl, so that every
branch and twig was inca.sed in ice : the bankn oC
these creeks were high ; the bridges cons^isled mere-
ly of pine-logs liiid cioss-ways, without parapet or
railing; they were now as slippery as glass, and the
hordes, as is usual in these isandy roads, bad no
shoes. I was dozing in the dark when I was awaken-
ed by (he voice of the driver, vowing that nothing
should tempt him to encounter a danger like that he
had just escaped. He had past one bridge, another
remained, and he kept his vow : but what was to be
done lo escape sleeping in the woods ? The bridge
roighl be avoided by an old road through a swamp,
supposed to be impassable : here, however, we were
to make the attempt. Branches of pine were cut
and lighted for torches, and we proceeded through
the woods. Afier sonv mistakes and more oaths
we found the bog, which indicated we were in (he
right way — "to be upnet," I *t«ij| to myself; but we
dashed through it up to the traces, with crash, whip,
and hidloo. Such iir (Mjnipage, ii. such a place, with
the torches, and negroes, and har:ih sounds, more

.»hV^

' w

RICHMOND TO CHARLESTON.

243

tbia dis-
[joijsea t« ,
I village :
lilia, who
,f the sol-
iking pay-
prepared
can have
less of the
lie veil by
\ereil with
1 ficqiient-
uik Bhrub-

iie etiougbi
\\)re 10 be
ht ; several
e;\vy show-
lha« every
t; bankn oC
iisled mere-
para pel or
aB9, aiul the
ds, had no
was awaken-
lat nothing
ike that he
ge, another
I was to be
The bridge
) a awampi
|er, we were
were cut
|ed through
more oat hi
vere in the
|eir ; but we
rash, whip,
place, with
lunda, more

resembled a vehicle for the transport of the damned
to their iiiferiial dwelling, than a stage-coach in a
rational country. Nor was the reseaiolance dimin-
ished when we arrived at the river brink : a fire was
kindled, and gleamed redly on the blacl;-looking
stream below ; and after many blasts of the iiorn,
an old canoe, steered by a shivering negro, wrapf in
a hiankti, came to terry us over : " Aoc/tj'er dclla
livida jtalnde.** With difticulty we stowed ouriselves
into bis wet, crazy bark, and were landed in (he
mud on the oppo^^ite shore, whence we sciauibiod to
the ferry-house a»!»l lavcrn. It was now fuur in the
morning ; a sharp visaged old woman was waiting
our arrival, and had prepared a meal of no templing
aspect, which she chose to call supper, and ivhich
it was expected passeiiaers should pay fiu", if not
eat. The driver'^ ujan, v ho iiad ciossed with us,
now wanted to return : the old woman began to rouse
the nesiro, who, shivering in the cold til of an ague,
had crept to his hut ; he replied to her shrill (ones
hat he was too ill to come out, and should (iie if she
Dreed him; '* You can die but once," said ilie l)el-
dame, ** so come you must." This man was an
African, and could scarcely speak English iniellj;<;i-
bly ; douhiless, however, he tell the tilessed exch.iit^e
from his own barbarous country to a land of reason
and liberty.

A singular peculiarity of vegetation marks the
proximity of the coast. The trees within thirty
miles of it are covered with a curious vegetable dra-
pery, which hangs from them in lon^ curling tendrils,
of a gray or pale green colour. It bears a small blue
flower, succeeded by a pbuned seed, which adheres
to the bark of trees. The live oak seems its most
genial soil ; but it suspends Itself from trees and
shrubs of every description ; and as it has no tenaci-
ty, but bangs like loose gauze drapery, it probahly
does them no injury. The Carolinians use it for
stuffing matrasses, and they oltscrve it is never fourul
without the range of the yellow fever.

r ii

< (

!:ti ' '

i 244 ]

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

CHARLESTON.

OTREks^TB iinpaved and narrow, small wooden houses,
from among which rise, in every quarter of the town,
stalely mansions, surrounded from lop to bottom with
hroad verandas, and standing within little gardens
full of orange trees, palmeltoes, and magnolias, are
features which give Charleston an expresJ«ion belong-
ing rather to the south of Europe, than to the Teuto-
nick cities of the north. Perhaps, taking into
view its large black population and glowing tempera-
ture in January, it is not very unlike some of the
cities on the Mediterranean coast of Africa.")^ In
other respects it is a nuble monument of what human
avarice can effect : its soil is a barren burning sand ;
with a river on eitHf>r siiie, overflowing into pestilen-
tial marshes, which exhale a contagion so pernicious
as (o render sleeping a single night within its in-
fluence, during the summer months, an experiment of
the ulinoi<t hazard. Even the town is no place of re-
fuge during the holleHi part of the season : all the in-
habitants who can aflford it, then fly to a barren sand-
bank in the harbour, ciillpd Sullivan's Inland, contain-
ing one well, and a lew paimelloes: here they dwell
in mi^^erable wooden teneinenls, trembling in every
8lor(n, lest, (as very frequently happens,) their hid-
ing places hhould be blown from over their heads, or

* I obsnrvp.d another (">ri«'ntttli''in ; tlie otflrr ol'sravrnprrs is
IiIIihI l)y tMri'on viiltiiros, who ar*' prnlrctrH hy Inw lor their
firrvires, and t'lililled tu devour all ofl'al uiulor the guarantee
of the rc|)ublick.

CHARLESTON-.

245

n houses,
the town,
itlom with
e gardens
loliatt, are
on belong-
he Teiito-
iking into
g leinpera-
iiiie of the
ica.* In
hat human
ning sand ;
to pestilen-
pernicious
jhin its in-
eriment of
;)|j»ce of re-
all the in-
rren Hand-
id, (Oiitain-
ilhey ilwell
£ in every
their hid-
headfl, or

Isravrnprrs it
lt«w lor tht'ir
hic guarantee

dehiged by an inundation of the sea. But what will
not men do, and bear, for money ? These pesiileniial
marshes are found to produi e good rice, and the ad-
jacent a'lhivions cotton ; true it is, no European frame
could support the labour of cultivation, but Africa
can furnish slaves, and thus, amid contagion and suf-
fering, bosh of oppressors and oppressed, has Charles-
ton become a wealthy city — nay, a religious one
too ; to judge by ;he number of churches built, build-
ing, and to be built.

1 inquired the cause of what seemed to me an ano-
maly in the history of planters, and was itiformed,
that this devotional access came on about the period
of the French revolution, in consequence of very se-
vere alarm at the danger to which religio»i and social
order were exposed. The Carolinians proceeded in
consequence to amend their lives, not as a mere mo-
ralist might have imagined, by amending their slave
code, by providing for the instruction, and pa\ing
the way for the total emancipation of the many thou-
sands of their fellow-creatures, whom they held in
stiipes and bondage. This, indeed, would have
been, to a certain extent, imitating the revolutionists
themselves ; they therefore took, not only an easier
course, but one they had reason to think much more
acceptable, because a more per'^onal compliuieni, to
the Deity whom they professed to serve ; they built,
and frequented many churches, heard, and read many
sermons, and bought and sold their brethren as be-
fore.

Charleston has a great reputation for hospitality, a
virtue very generally conceded to llie Americans,
even by those, who are willing to deny them e\ery
other: in my judgment, (heir fame in this respect, as
much exceeds their deserving, as in utosi other cases
it falls below it. Hospitality, in the true sense of the
word, meak.s that liberal enleitainmenl, which spreads
a couch and table for the stramrer, merelv bet ause
he in a stranger : this was (he hospitality of the an<

ijii

246

CHARLEBTOK.

! 5

■:H

! r

■ !i

IIV I

* 1

cients, and is still that of the Arabs, Tartars, and iin-
corrupted Indian tribes ; it was also that ot the Ame-
rirans themselves in a less advanced stale of society :
Mr. Jefferson told me, that in his fathers time, it was
no uncommon thing for gentlemen to post their ser-
vaiiis on the main road, for the purpose of amicably
way-laying, and bringing to their houses any travel'
lers who might chance to pass. Of such violence not
a particle is now to be apprehended, at least in the
old Siates. While f was in the north, I was constant-
ly told of the hospitality of the south : At Philadel-
phia, I toud it ice-bound, at Baltimore there was in-
deed a thaw, but at Washington the frost, probably
from the congenial influence of politicks, was harder
than ever; the thermometer rose but little at Rich-
morid, and, when 1 arrived at Charleston, I was en-
tertained, not with its own hospitality, but with an
eulogium upon that of Boston. — 1 ilid not retrace my
steps, to put the matter to proof. — Tlie experience
of an individual would not be very conclusive, were
hospifality a discriminating virtue ; but its essence ig
prodigality, and the name of stranger, the only requi-
site passport to its favour. Ot such hospitality, the
traveller will find nothing,''^ except, indeed, his rank
or character should be such, as to give an eclat to
his entertainers. The ordinary pilgrim must be con-
tent, ^f his lettets of introduction procure him, as they
certainly will, a courteous reception, and a dinner.
He will also find a ready and polite admission into
general society. And this ought to satisfy him.

''' If I liave any wtierc in my travels npoken of hospitality, it
was for want of a ()ettcr word to express the politeness with
whirh a stran)?er is orca<iionally entertained. Of true hospita-
lity I met witli but two instniioes, one in a young Farmer, who
lived on tiio Grand Hiver. and who, though in very middling
cireumstancos, most litiorally received and entertained me,
during my visit to the Indian Settlements. Tlie other at Mrs.
Nairn's, where a table and l>ed are always prepared for travel-
lers. I mi;^lit, pert 'ps, make a third uf the rosy Priest of Les
Kbnulemens.

CHARLESTON.

247

and iin-
e Ame-
iociely :
;, it was
lieii- ser-
mirably
/ travel-
ence not
fit in the
lonstant-
Philadel-
B Wii9 in-
probably
18 harder
at Rich-
[ was en-
t with an
trace my
cperience
ve, were
jssence is

y requi-
ility, the

his rank
eclat to
be con-

,a3 they
dinner.

sion into

sfy him.

piiality, it
eness with
le hospita-
irm»'r, who
y middling

ained me,
ler at Mrs.

lor travel-
Iie8t of Les

As long as there are taverns open he has no claim,
and ever>*civirny is a matter of grace. The human
mind, is, however, slow to di^irard an opininn it has
once cherished. Hospitalily is still talked of, both
by Americans and strangers, as if it were still alive.
The free reciprocation of civilities betwixt citizens of
different states, when connected by commercial or
Other ties, fosters the delusion. The New York
merchant is liberally entertained at Charleston, and
he of Charleston receives an adequate return of civi-
lities at New York. This is not hospit.ility, but a
mutual exchan(>;e, founded on mutual convenience.
Let not, however, a t:hange of customs be considered
a reproach. Society has, in all countries, moved,
through (he same gradations, and each stage of its
progress has been marked by its appropiiale virtues,
crimes, and follies. Hospitality belongs to that pe-
riod, which in a certain point of view, is to be styled
barbarous ; and would become a super-human virtue,
were it to survive the moment when it ceases to be
as pleasing to the entertainer as necessary to his
guest. It probably still lingers on the banks of the
Mississippi, it will accompany the advanced guard of
settlers down the shores of the IVlissouri; be driven
from thence to the neightxHirhood of the Columbia,
and finally «lrowned in the Piuifirk.

I sailed from Chiirlrsion on the 2*2d of February,
and on the 30lh of March welcomed the hills of mv
country.

tSX

m •

■ml ''

APPENDIX.

No. I.

OP SLAVERY IN THE UNITEO STATES.

There seems little in slavery and slave dealing
to captivate either the judgment or the heart, yet
they have always found advocates, not merely among
dealers and planters, but men who appear to love
them for themselves : this too without any natural
sympathy with cruelty, for many would shudder to
inflict on an individual of their acquaintance, an iota
of the suflfering they uphold as fit to be the portion
and daily bread of thousands, but from the influence
of authority, prejudice, or from an inaptitude to in-
vestigate any subject beyond the line of their ordi«
nary occupations.

As such persons scarcely aflect to reason, or in-
quire, it is difficult to discover on what grounds
they rest their opinions : the few who pretend to
speak from experience, have seldom more to urge
than the experience of good West-India dinners ; and
how can any thing be <wroog where people dine so
well? The many, who have made up their mindi
by mere dint of not thinking on the matter, take fast
hold upon some one of the many bold falsehoods, or
skilful sophisms, with which those interested in the
^raffick are ever ready to furnish such as find it

I II

■f

I ' I

250

APPENDIX.

troublesome, or fancy it unsafe, to use their own un-
derstandingi) ; — as for instance —

Negro slaves are better off than the poorer classes
in many European countries. — They are quite con-
tented with their situation, except when perverted
by their pretended friends. — It is the proprietor's
interest to use them well, and therefore he does use
them well ;—- or the abolitionists are melhodists, ja-
cobins, or enthusiasts, and therefore unfit to be
trusted with reforms of any kind ; besides, slavery
has existed time out of mind, and why is the present
generation to pretend to more wisdom and humanity
than their forefathers ? Their very good nature leads
them to disbelieve most of the cruelties they hear
related as connected with the slave-system, or should
the evidence of particular facts occasionally over-
power their prejudice, they readily a(imit, that as
negroes are constitutionally diO'erent from while men,
they require a different treatment, so that what may
seem harsh to us, and would in fact be harsh to peo-
ple of our complexion, is no more to them than a
salubrious regimen. Such advocates, however con-
temptible as logicians, are of great numerical impor-
tance. They constitute the standing army of cor*
ruption in all shapes ; are always to be found among
the supporters of power, and may be depended on
as the steady friends of whatever is established.
To the efforts of the enlightened few, they oppose
the inert resistance of impassive matter ; a resistance
which gains respect by seeming disinterested, and
remains unassailable, because, like the tortoise, it
presents no vital point of attack. Self-interest takes
the field with better artitour, and more enterprise,
but the combat would be short-lived, did he not,
after each discomfiture, find refuge within the shell
of his simple ally. Fortunately, this class of good
sort of credulous gentlemen, is less numerous in the
States than elsewhere: few can be unint'ortiied, or
are unaccustomed practically to examine every ques-

APPENDIX.

'2b I

r own un-

ler classes
|uite con-
peiveited
ro(>i'ietor's
does use
loilists, ja-
[ifit to be
8, slavery
he present
1 humanity
ature leads
they hear
t, or should
nally over-
nit, that as
while men,
t what may
arsh to peo-
hem than a
►wever con-
ical impor-
rmy of cor-
jund among
epended on
established.
ey oppose
a resistance
rested, and
tortoise, it
teresi takes
enterprise,
did he not,
II the shell
,ss of good
rous in the
loriiied, or
lever)' ques-

tion connected with the publick weal ; and this dis-
position has been highly tavourable to tiie cauae of
emancipation.

Slavery has been formally excluded from the con-
stitution of each state ailiiiitted into the LTnion since
Kentucky. Even in Virginia, il seems to have few
supporters out of the immediate classes of dealers
anil planters. During my journey through the up-
per, and mountainous parts of the country, 1 bad
frequent occasion to hear farmers, and men of all
descriptions, express their dislike to it, not indeed,
as a violation of humanity, but as a political evil,
which substituted bud labour for good, an unsound
population for an healthy one. In fact, the only
desoriplion of cultivators really interested in its pi e-
servation, are the planters of the coast-line, whose
infectious rice-grounds can be cultivated by nct^roes
only : here therefore the resistance to its abolition
will be lasting and steady ; but even here nature in-
terposes to diminish the evil. Experience begins
to teach, that health and labour are preferable to
indolence and disease. The low marshy coast lands
are daily abandoned, wbile the muunlain connlry is
peopling with its emigrants. So much is this the
case, that I was told by many, that the wolves and
bears which formerly inhabited the latter, have suc-
ceeded to the wildernesses of the former, in which
they are now almost exclusively to be found. An-
other favourable circumstance is, that rice-hnds
make no auequate return if beyond the reach oi (he
tidewater; but the rivers of the Caroimas and Geor-
gia, descending through a sandy flat, arrive at the
sea with so little force of current, that they are
unable to remove the sand-banks and other obstruc-
tions constantly forming at their mouths : the har-
bours are therefore becoming more and more un-
safe : the bar of Charleston is with difllcnlty pas!^a-
ble by a vessel of 300 tons, except under very fa-
Tourable circumstances of wind and tide. From the

(

.. i^**-
' -m

iPv

' n

252

APPENDIX.

same causes, the ascent of the tide inland is con-
tinually diminishing, and the quantity of land favoura-
ble to the culture of rice, necessarily decreases in
the same proportion.

Thus, while the Eastern and Central States ag-
gregately, and the most enlightened individuals of
all states, continue to wage the combat of humani-
ty, the dominion of slavery is narrowed on every
side, and the hope may be indulged, that its total
extinction is neither improbable, nor even very far
distant.

It remains to satisfy a melancholy curiosity res-
pecting the actual condition of slaves in the United
States both in law and fact. Information on the lat-
ter point is little attainable by a cursory traveller.
The planter will not present himself to his examina-
tion, with his memorandum book of the stripes and
tortures he has inflicted, and of the groans which
have followed : the information he affords, should he
.afford any, must come through a doubly distorted
medium ; as a planter he is interested in concealing
whatever militates against the slave system : as an
American he is interested in vindicating the national
character to a foreigner. The testimony of the slave
would gain no credit from the enemies to his eman-
cipation ; nor will travelling through the country
suffice to shew the workings of a system, the most
odious part of which is necessarily withdrawn from
the publick eye. I can therefore delineate such
broad outlines only as are incapable of concealment ;
leaving, not to the imagination, but to inductive rea-
son, the filling up of the picture.

The law by which slaves and free-men of colour
are governed in the Carolinas (and 1 believe the same,
or a similar code prevails in all the Slave States)
Ai a Provincial Act past in 1740, and made perpe-
tual in 1783. It commences by a heart chilling
enunciation ;

APPENDIX.

253

id is con-
I favoura*
ureases in

States ag-
iriduaU of
if humani-
on every
at its total
I very far

•iosity res-
he United
on the lat-
' traveller.
B examina-
tripes and
tans which
should he
T distorted
concealing
em : as an
he national
)f the slave
his eman-
te country
the most
rawn from
eaie such
icealment ;
luctive rca-

of colour

|e the same,

ive Stales)

lade perpe-

Irt chilling

" Whereas in his Majesty's Plantations, &c.
Slavery has been allowed, be it enacted, That all
negroes, miilattoes, &c. who are, or shall hereafter
be, in this province, and all their issue and ofl-
spring, born, and to be born, shall be, and are here-
by declared to be, and remain for ever hereafter
absolute Slaves." A clause follows from which the
most iniquitous oppressions are at this day deduc-
ed ; " It shall always be presumed that every negro
is a slave unless the contrary can be made ap-
pear."

The 9th clause gives two justices of the peace,
and three, of five freeholders, the power of ♦ry'nj^
slaves for capital offences, and of carrying iheir i.t\\<
tence in.o effe« t ; that is ok inflio'iitg such ^;an.*!fc'r
of death " as they shall judge wiil be nost edtcctual
to deter others from offending in V'V.e mani^er.'*

The I3th clause admits the eviri?i!i<; e of lU free
negroes, and of any slave against a Tiave " Wilhout
oath."

Clause 14th. " And v.hecas slj^vea ,iiaj be har-
boured, &c. by free negroes, and suet; free negroes
may escape punishment for want of s<aw<''en; mA
legal evidence against them, be it enacle«J, T}iai the
evidence of any free Indian, negro, i?,.u. oi itJavj,
without oath, shall in like manner ht alia ned and
admitted against such free negroe?. &c.

The 34th clause prohibits any master fi jtn s'lfier-
ing a slave to traffick on his own accoiimf, fhii> cut-
ling off the most unobjectionable mode by which the
slave of a benevolent master might ascend, throug,i>
an equality of condition, to an equality of rights .vith
the white man.

The 37th clause presents an exquisite specimen
of that legislative cPiUt and crieltv v\ti! T^Mch (he
governments of all nations, frGit,' Ijtiie (c t; lire, edify
their country and ma;ikind ; "And whereas cruelty
is not only highly unbocomin^ ihose who profess
themselves Chnstic.'.iS, bni is odious in the eyes of

f; m

1 . 1 '.'i

2.'i4

AfPENDIX.

all men who ha- e any sense of virtue or hiinianily,
therefore, to restrain and prevent barbarity Iroin
being exercised towards slaves, be it enacted. That
any person wilfully luurdering a slave shall forfeit
700/. currency, (i. e. 100/. sterling:) and if any per-
son siialt on a sudden heat and passion, or by undue
correction, kill his own slave, or slave of another
person, he shall forfeit 360/. currency, (/. e. 501.
sterling.")

The 3(Uh enacts a penally of 14/. for cutting out
the tongue, dismembering and other tortuies, indict-
ed by any other instrument than a horsewhip, cow-
skin, or small stick.

The 39th is a legislative premium upon perjury ;
it enacts, That when a slave is maimeii or cruelly
used, his owner shall be presumed gudty ; *' unless
he clear himself by evidence, or make oath to the
contrary."

By clause 43d any white man meeting above
srven slaves on a high road together " shall and may
whip each of them, not exceeding twenty lashes on
the bare back."

The 4.'>th inflicts a penally of 100/. currency for
teaching a slave to write.

Such is the code by which Christians govern
Christians ; nor is it, in any point, a dead letter.
The fears of the proprietors are tremblingly alive,
and racked with the dread of an insurrection, in
which they must expect the measure they have
meted. A military police is constantly kept up in
Charleston, and every man of colour, whether slave
or free, found in the streets after dark, without a
pass, is taken up, and puniahed. In fact, the con-
dition of the free man of colour is scarcely pre-
ferable to that of a slave : subjected to the same
V mode of trial, ekposed to the same jealous surveil-
lance, carefully excluded from all the rights and
privileges of citizenship, and surrounded by every
kind of snares, both legal and ille^vtl, hii freedom

"-^

APPENDIX.

255

iinianity,
ity Irom
!d, That
II I'orteit
any per-
ly undue
unuther
. e. 501.

itting out
s, indict-
lip, cow-
perjury ;
r cruelly
<' unless
li to the

ng above
I and may
lashes on

rency for

9 govern
d letter.
gly alive,
iction, in
hey have
;pt up in
her slave
thout a
he con*
ly pre-
lie same
surveil-
ghts and
y every
freedom

v;i

seems but a mockery superadded to oppression.
The slutule declares that every man of culuur shall
be preaufjMMj a slave : every newspaper is a com-
menlary un the injustice and barbarity of this enact-
ment ; tneiy Uu) irien of colour are advertised as
taken up on suspicion of being slavch : they are
committed to jail, and if no owner appears, are
sold to pay expenses. Rut the direct operation of
the law is not all the free man of colour has to
dread.

The humane exertions of some gentlemen of the
Charleston bar have lately brought to light a singu-
lar system for kidnapping free negroes, and selling
them as slaves into Kentii«;ky, or any Stale at a
distance from their connexions. The agents were
a justice of the peace, a constable, and a slave
dealer.

The process was as simple as unblushing villainy
could devise. A victim having been selected, one
of the firm applied to the justice upon a sham charge
of assault, or similar offence, for a wiit, whit h was
immediately issued and ser\cd by the constable,
and the negro conveyed to prii«on. Here, without
friendb or money, he is to await hi'> trial for some
unknown crime, charged against hiin by hoimc un-
known acruHer: no wonder if in this desohtte con-
dition his spirit" (<ink, and his fears anfii ipale the
worst : the t'onslable now appears, exaggerates the
dangers of his situation ; rxphiins bow small is
his chance of being libera ed, «'\«n if innocent, by
reason of the amount ot the jail fci h and other legal
expenses ; but he knows a worth} man who is in-
terested in his behalf, and will do what is necessary
to procure his freedom, upon no hnidcr condition
than an cngagemtiit to serve him lor a certain number
of years. It iimy be supposed, the negro is persuad-
ed ; ** influenced perhaps, (as the counbcl for the
defendants obnerved, on the trial,) by the charms of
a country life." The worthy slave dealer now ap-

'i:J(«

\
I!

I '

256

APFCXDIX.

pears on the stage. The iiidendire of bondage is
ratified in presence of the worthy magistrate bnd
constable, who share the price of blood, and the
victim is hurried on ship-board to be seen no more.

This trafHck had been long carried on, when hu-
manity discovered and exposed it in a court of jus-
tice ; but since, by the present law, there is no such
offence as inan-slealing, it could be punished as false
imprisonment only. Shonid not however the shame
of discovery produce a stronger impression on the
parlies engaged in this iniquitous traffick, than can
be expected from their depraved habits, it is more
than probable, it will continue to be carried on with
keener, and perhaps uibre atrocious dexterity than
before.

He must be a very sanguine enthusiast in favour
of human nature,"^ who believes that the negro, thus
protected by the laws, will be very tenderly cherish-
ed by his master. The uncontrolled will of the
moit virtuous individual would be a fearful thing to
live under, but the brutal passions of the sordid, the
cruel, and the ignuiant, scourges which might well
"appal the guilty and confound the free," are the
rule by which at least nine-tenths of the slave popu-
lation are governed. If so governed, they are mildly
and justly governed, we must admit the constant
operation in their favour of a miracle strong enough
to invert the whole moral order of nature. To
render tigers granivorous would be comparatively
easy.

It is not impossible, but that the house servants
and personal dornesticks of humane and enlightened
maxtcrs, may be in a conditior not in every respect
much worse than that of persons filling the same
station in European countries ; but it is not from

* The AbolitinniKt*) are charged witti an affcrtatinii of phl-
lanlliropy, l>»rHiiM) I hoy thinic lilack iii«>ii have tlie Ninnr ted-
iiii^^ n-ith whitp; hiil it i% th<* vny iiobriely of rouou, to as-
« rib« to platilsm tlie virtues ol'ai)|«li.

! \

APPENDIX.

257

dag;e is
te und
nd the
I more,
len hii-
of jus-
10 such
as false
> shame
on the
lan can
is more
on with
ty than

favour

;ro, thus

cherish-

of the

thing to

did, the

ght well

are the

e popu-

mildly

onstant

enough

le. To

iralively

lervants

jghtened

respect

le same

tt from

of phi-
inr lecl-
|>u, to as-

the good fortune of this minute portion, we can de-
duce a fair estimate of the condition of the many.
It is in the plantation, and principally, perhaps,
among the petty proprietors, the work of torture
goes on. An occasional irdii^nce of atrocity some*
times meets the publick eys, ind sheds a lurid light
upon a region " where ^ope never comes."

I shall advert to a few such particulars, in the
mode of treating slaves, as being matters of publick
notoriety, admit of no dispute, and therefore, afford
true bases, upon which to discuss the question of
their physical enjoyments. — First then for their lodg-
ing. If there be any sensation to which the negro
is by conalitntion peculiarly alive, it is that of cold.
I have mentioned the degree of cold in the Caroli-
nas during my journey through them ; this it must
be owned, was greater than is usual, so far south as
the Roanoke, but a much less degree is sufficient to
chill frames unbraced by a climate hot and moist
in summer to an excess. In Mar}' land and Virginia
several months of the winter are as severe as in En-
gland.*

The hut which is to shelter the negro during this,
to him, inclement season, is built of legs or nnsquared
trunks of pine trees, so carelessly put togetler, that
as I travelled through the country by night, the
fire-ii^ht shone through every part of them, as

through wire lanterns : true it is, they

may

have

•'Tptfc cdte (l.'Atlantiqiip) fprouvc do< attaqiiPH dp gcl(5eg Di«e«
vivps d»n* loi qiinr^inlu joiiri* <|iil miivtMit If* soUticp ilMiivri' A Norfolk,
)e 14 Kfvrirr. ITItS, il timihn i' iik iiii«' iiuit (lu.itre int-dH df iipigp ; ft i
ChurlP^toi) iiitine pur Its W'S^ <\v Inliliidr, 1p iiKicun' tomhf junqim' i

Juntre dpi{r6 »oin «6ro (scKm liiaiKMiuit.) et la lerrp (iili- ffium jiifqiin' i
nix ponri't d'ouuiiiHt'iir d^ini urx* KPidp unit. Fxr iiivti^e niir todtc )i\
cftt^, dPpiiiM lo I'litiimur, Ion tliiilp»ir», ddi iiii nioi» uviint Ip hoIhIIvC •I'flf ,
loiiti li riirtc!), i]Mi* |ii'ii(iiiiit qiiiitrp moil le inprrtiiL' st'fil^v^ (-(iiiiiiiiiiiriiii'iit
a\x^* inidi, piUip "J'i pt 24"" Volttpy. t. i. p, 141. Ohsprvinu mlpt-
wind" oil tlip pffiTt pKKliK'i'd by lliew tlinnKPi of tpiniipiiidup, he ;idd«,
" CVnt Piicnrf pnr i'pjrct dp lelte liiifiiludp dpii oiRiinps, qii' ft Cliai!p>loii
nil IP pliiiiit dii froid qmiiid le tliPiiiioiiitliP rxt ft 10" 011 I'i** iiii kI »'''i
•t qiip I'uii y hidip, iptoii In i-finurqiip iK liiaiicoiiri, iiutnnt do hois qii'ft
I'biltdelphia 6u Ic mercure toiubc ()" plui biu.'* Id. p. \b'l,

258

APPENDIX.

wood for the fetching, but it is no trifling addition to
their daily toil, that they must cut and bring it in,
and have their night's re»t perpetually broken, by the
oblii!;alion of keeping up their fires.

To talk of furniture and conveniences in such
cabins is superfluous ; a few gourds and wooden
utensils comprise their whole stock : as for bedding,
a negro is supposed to require none.

While [ was sitting in tiie publick room of the
tavern at Charlot'eville, ihe master of some negroes
was making arrangements relative to their hire by
another man for the season,* when one of them request-
ed, in the name of the rest, that they might be allow-
ed the usual blanket a-piece, which ihey had not
received in their former service. This trifling inci-
dent informed me to what kind of accommodation
an equitable master considers his slave entitled ; —
a wretched cabin and a single blanket. For their
clothing, with the exceptions I have already mention-
ed, I observed it almost invariably to be ragged and
miserable in the extreme.

The description of their food is well known; Rice
and Indian meal, with a little dried fish ; it is, in
fact, the result oi'a calculation of the cheapest nutri-
ment on which human life can be supported. I have
heard, indeed, of the many luxuries the negro might
enjoy were he not too indolent ; of the poultry and
vegetables he might raise round his hut ; but his un-
conquerable idleness masters all other feelings. 1
have seldom heard an argument against the negroes
that was not double-edged. If they are, indeed, so
indolent by nature, that even a regard for their own
comforts proves insuffirient to rouse them to exertion,
with what colour can it be asserted that they feel it
no misfortune to be compelled to daily labour for

* Wtirn an owner hw no work tor til* «!av«'s ho rommoiily
letw tlifim out for tUe year, or foasun, to aoy oM iu waut of
hands.

APPENDIX.

259

another? Is Ihe sound of (he whip so very ftxhilaiat-
ing that it disjiels at once indolence and sntleiing?
But 1 admit the fact of their indolence. The hiiinan
mind fits itself to its situation, and lo flic dctuarMh
which are made upon itsj energies. Cut oil' hope for
the future, and freedom lb;* Ihe present, superadd a
due pressure of hoilily suffering, ami personal degra-
dation, and you have a slave, who, of whiilever zone,
nation, or complexion, will be, what Ihe jtoor African
is, torpid, debased, and lowered beneath tiie standard
of humanity.

To inquire if, so circumstanced, he is happy,
would be a question idly ridicidous, except that ihe
affirmative is not only gravely maintained, but con-
stitutes an esHential moral prop of the whole slave
system. Neither they who affirm, nor they who
deny, pretend to any talisman by which the feelings
of the heart may be set in open day ; but if general
reasoning be resorted to, since pain and pleasure arc
found to be the necessary result of the operation of
certain accidents on the human constitution, the
aggregate of our sensations (that is, our happiness or
misery) ntust be allowed to depend on the nundjer
and cotnbination of these accidents. '* If you prick
us, do we not bleed? If you tickle us, do we not
laugh? If you poison us, do we not die?"

Stiould there be any unknowi. principle in the
negro's constitution, which enables him to convert
natural effects into iheir contraries, and so de»piso
contingencies, whether of good or evil, he may pride
himself on havinc over-past the glory both of saints
and sloicks ; but the fact wouhi no tnore justify his
oppressors, than did the stubborn endurance of
Kpictetus, the barbarity of his master, who broke his
leg. It would be loo much, first lo inflict a cruelly,
and then to take credit for tlie patience wiih which
it is supported ; but the fact itself is, in this case,
more than doubtful. That to a certain point the feel-
ings of the slave grow callous under bondage, may
be conceded : this is the mercy of Nature : but that

260

APPENDIX.

If'

they are wholly extinguished by siitTering, is con-
tradicteJ by facts of loo palpable evidence ; one of
which is, that it is no uncommon thing for negroes to
commit suicide. This 1 heard from a gentleman of
Charleston ; and I have since met with the still more
unexceptionable testimony ot a friend to the Slave
Tiade.

Dr. Williamson, in his " Medical and Miscellane-
ous Observations, relative to the West India Islands,"
observes, " Negroes anticipate that they will, upon
death removing them froui that country, be restored
to their native land, and enjoy their friends' society in
a future state. The ill-disposed to their masters, will
sometimes be guilty of suicide; or by a resolute
determination resort to dirt-eating; and thence pro*
duce disease, and at length death." i. 93. This it
the kind of man who, should he ever hear of the
death of Cato, would call it the result of *'an ill dis-
position towards his master, Cffisar."

I remember to have once heard a person assert,
from his own experience, that a cargo of Africans
expressed great pleasure on finding themselves made
slaves, on their arrival in America. A further expla-
nation, however, removed the seeming improbability
of this anecdote. They imagined they had been
purchased for the purpose of being eaten, and there-
fore rejoiced in their ignorance, when they discovered,
they were only to be held in bondage.

The natural inferiority of the negro race has been
frequently urged, as an excuse for enslaving them ;
as if, admitting the fact, superiority of intellect con-
ferred a right of oppression. It is to be regretted,
that Mr. Jefferson has, to a certain extent, lent the
sanction of his name to this opinion, not indeed to
justify practices which no man more sincerely ab-
hors;"^ but as the result of deliberate inquiry. The

♦ •• I tremble for my country," nays ho, •• when I reHect
that God IS Jiut ; that his Juitiee caanot ileep for cvpr"
Notei on Virginia, p. 241.

APPENDIX.

261

is con-
one of
frees Id
man of
ill more
B Slave

cellane-
ilancJs,"
II, upon
restored
>ciety in
era, will
resolute
ice pro*
This is
r of the
n ill dia-

n assert,

Africans

es made

r expla-

bability

lad been

d there-

overed,

las been
them ;
set con-
sgretted,
lent the
Ideed to
rely ab-
The

I reflect
jr ever."

author ot "Letters from Virginia," discusses his
arguments on (his subject, »nd I think proves (hem
to be ill-grounded, if I um not mistaken in his cha-
acter, the philosopher of Munlicello will be himself
among the first to rejoice in his own defeat.

I forbear entering upon a question already decided
by the irrefragable evidence of facts.

A black empire has arisen amid European settle-
ments. Do the ptiblick proceedings, and details of its
government bespeak an> inteiioiity to those of white
men? The state papeiH of Hayti are to be distin-
guished from those of European potent iies, only by
Buperiour energy, and more exalted k< niiuients ; and
while the manners and politics of Petion eioulete
those of his republican neighbours, the court of Chris-
tophe has at least as much giiiiing and foolery, as ma-
ny lords and ladies of the bedchamber, lords in wait-
ing, stars and ribbons, gilded coachett, and laced but-
ton-holes, as those of his brother potentates, all over
the world.

I shall conclude, by an account of the trial and
execution of a negro, n hich took place during my
stay at Charleston.

A man died on board a merchant ship, apparently
in consequence of poison mixed with the dinner serv-
ed up to the ship^s company. The cabin-boy and
cook were suspected, because they were, from
their occupations, the only persons on board who did
not partake of the mess, the effects of which began
to appear as s^on as it was tasted. As the offence
was committed on the high seas, the cook, though a
negro, became entitled to the benefit of a jury, and.
with the cabin-boy, was put on his trial. The boy,
a fine looking lad, and wholly unabashed by his situa-
tion, was readily acquitted. The negro's turn was
next. He was a man of low stature, ill-shapen, and
with a countenance singularly disgusting. The proofs
against him were, first, that he was cook ; so who else
could have poisoned the mess ? It was indeed over

' i.

■•^

fi'

•26-Z

APPENDIX.

■ f

looked, that (woof the crew had absconded since the
ship came into port. Secondly, he had been heard
to utter cxpresriions of il!-hnnioiir before he went on
board : that part of the evitience nas indeed stip-
prest, which went to explain these expressions. The
real proof however was written in his skin, and in the
uncouth lines of his countenance. He was found
guilty.

Mr. Crafts, junior, a gentleman of the Charleston
bar, who from motives of humanity had undertaken
his defence, did not think a man ought to die for his
colour, albeit it was the custom of the country ; and
moved in consequence foe a new trial, on the ground
of partial and insufficient evidence ; but the Judge,
who had urged his condemnation with a vindictive
earnestness, intrenched himself in forms, and found
the law gave him no power in favour of mercy, lie
then forwarded a representation of the case to the
President, through one of the senators of the State ;
but the senator ridiculed the idea of interesting him-
self for the life of a negro, who was therefore lell to
liis cell and the hangman. In this situation he did
not however forsake himself; and it was now, when
prejudice and persecution had spent their last arrow
on him, that he seemed to put on his proper nature,
to vindicate not only his innocence, but the moral
equality of his race, and those mental energies which
thewhite man's pride would (\eny to the shape of his
head and the woollincss of his hair. Maintaining the
most undevialing tranquillity, he conversed with ease
and cheerfulness, whenever his benevolent counsel,
who continued his kind attentions to the last, visited
his cell. 1 was present on one of these occasions, and
observed his tone and manner, neither sullen nor
desperate, but quiet and resigned, suggesting what-
ever occurred to him on the circumstances of his own
case, with as much calmness as if ho had been uninte-
rested in the event ; yet as if he deemed it a duly to
omit none of the means placed within his reacli for

APPENDIX.

203

vindicating his innocence. He had constantly atten-
ded the exhortations of a Melliotlist preacher,* who
for conscience-sake, visited "those who were in pris-
on ;" and having thus strengthened his spirit with
religion, on the morning of his execution, breakfasted
as usual, heartily ; but before he was led out, he re-
quested permission to address a few words of advice
to the companions of his captivity. " [ have observ-
ed much in them, he added, which requires to be
amended, and the advice of a man in my situatioii may
be respected." A circle was accordingly formed iti
his cell, in the midst of which he seated himself, and
addressed them at some length, with a sober an<l col-
lected earnestness of manner, on the profligacy which
he had noted in their behaviour, while they had been
fellow prisoners ; recommending to thcin the rules of
conduct prescribed by that relijrion, in which he now
found his support and consolation.

Certainly, if we regard the quality and condition
of the actors only, there is an inHuite distance be-
twixt this scene and the parting of Socrates with his
disciples ; should we however put away from our
thoughts, such differences as are merely accidental,
and seize that point of coincidence which is most inte-
resting and important; namely, the triumph of mcr.tal
energy over the most clinging weaknesses of our
nature; the negro will not appear wholly nr)worthy of
a comparison with the sage of Athoiis. The .latter
occupied an exalted station in the publick eye ;
though persecuted even unlo dialh and ignominy, by
a band of triumphant despots, he was surrounded in
his last momctits by his faithful IVierMis and disciples,
to whose talents and affection he might safely trust

* Tlie clinrcli l»uildrrs oC riinrlfston nro too liappy in a mo-
Bopoly of'<«alvatioii to atlonl :i si«lari('<l rl<>rirymuii to tim jail, and
the salaried clergymen oi'thn rity caniiol aflord to rontainiiiatH
their pioty, by entering, unpaid, tbc abode of ciinie and uiis-
fortunc.

lii

ff.

264

APPENDIX.

r '■ 1 ..

■'i

> \ 1

M ^^

the vindication of his fame, and the unsullied white-
ness of his memory : he knew that his hour of glory
must come, and that it would not pass away. The
negro had none of these aids ; he was a man friend-
less and despised ; the sympathies of society were
locked up against him ; he was to atone for an odious
crime, by an ignominious death ; the consciousness
of his innocence was confined to his own bosom, there
probably to sleep for ever : to the rest of mankind he
was a wretched criminal ; an object perhaps of con-
tempt and detestation, even to the guilty companions
of his prison-house ; he had no philosophy with which
to reason down those natural misgivings, which may
be supposed to precede the violent dissolution of life
and body : he could make no appeal to posterity to
reverse an unjust judgment. — To have borne all this
patiently, would have been much : he bore it hero-
ically.

Having ended his discourse, he was conducted to the
scaflfold, where having calmly surveyed the crowds
collected to witness his fate, he requested leave to
address them. Having obtained permission, he stept
firmly to the edge of the scaffold, and having com-
manded silence by his gestures, " you are come,"
said he, " to be spectators of my suflferings ; you are
mistaken, there is not a person in this crowd but suf-
fers more than I do. I am cheerful and contented,
for I am innocent." He then observed, that he truly
forgave all those who had taken any part in his con-
demnation, and believed that they had acted consci-
entiously from the evidence before them ; and dis-
claimed all idea of imputing guilt to any one. He
then turned to his counsel, who with feelings, which
honoured humanity, had attended him to the scaffold ;
" to you, Sir," said he, " I am indeed most grateful,,
had you been my son, you could not have acted by
pie more kindly ;" and observing his tears, he continu-
ed ; " this. Sir, distresses me beyond any thing I have
felt yet I entreat you will feel no distress on my

ii .

APPENDIX.

266

white-
' glory
. The

friend-
y were
1 odious
ouaneBS
n, th«rc
kind he
of con-
panions
ii which
ich may
a of life
jrity to
i all this
it hero-

ed to the

crowds

eave to

he stept

)g com-

coine,"

you are

but suf-

ntented,

e truly

is con-

conaci-

Ind dis-

le. He

which

:aSb1d ;

rrateful,

;ted by

:ontinu-

Ihave

on ray

account, I am happy ;" llien praying Heaven to re-
ward hi^ beiievoieiioe, he took leave of him, and sig-
nilird \\'\^ ieudiiiess lo die ; l)iit requested he might
be excused liom ha\ing his eye« and hands bandag-
e«l ; rtixhiiiii, wjih an excusable pride, to give this
fiiiiii piMoi «)t ills luishaken (innness : he, however,
sub.aitUfii (ill iliis point, to the representations of the
shtii.;', and died uitiiouithe quivering of a muscle.
The sjmrtitois, who had been drawn together, part-
ly by idle' cm iosity, and partly by a detestation of his
si.'pposo:! crime, retired with tears for his fate, and
execrations on his murderers.

No. II.

OF THE AMERICAN CHARACTER.

I ventured at an early period of my travels to delineate
some features of the American charsictcr. Whatever I
have sfen auice has tended to confirm the im|*resaion then
mule, and this agreement of early imitressiuns with sub-
sequent experience may be admitted to prove, that the
national character is strongly pronounced and therefore
readily aMpreci>ited.

NotwithHtandinsT the important diQereuces of climate,
habits of life, and religion, there exis^ts throughout the
Uniim a feature of similitude countervailing all these.
Thi» feature is government. Political institutions have
in other countries a feelile and secondary inlluence : the
duties of a snliject are, for the most part, passive; those
of the American citizen are active, and perpetually act-
ing; an<l as they operate equally on every memlier of
society, their general control over the whole community
must, in most instances, exceed that of any partial habit
or opinion.

The common qualities which may be said to be gene-
rated by this influence, are intelligence, or a quick ner-

■^ *r-

! i :

266

APFENUIX.

ception of utility, both general and individual; hence
their attachment lu freedom, and to every Bpt^ciea of im-
provement both publick and private : energy, and perse-
verance ill carrying their plans into eQect ; qualities in
fact deducible from the former; we are steady in pursuing,
when thoroughly convinced of the value of the object:
gravity of manner and deportment, becausie they are ha-
bitu dly occupied upon matters of deep interest : tacitur-
nity, whiih is the otlspring of thought. 'J'hey appear
deticient in imagination or the poetry of life, because all
its realities are at their disposal. They seem to have
little sympathy, becduse their social system does not com-
pel them to sutfer. Oppression engenders pity ; disease
and death require only resii^nation.

But beside these general features, which may be con-
sidered as common to the whole mass of American citi-
zens, each grand division of the Union has its own pecu-
liar characterisiicks. By grand divisions, I mean, 1.
The New England States ; 2. The Central ; 3. The
Southern ; and 4. The States to the west of the Allegha-

nies.

*•»

THE NEW ENGLAND STATES.

The author of " Letters from Virginia,"' thus pourtrays
the New Engianders, or Yankees.

" My young friend Manly came in to see me last eve-
ning. *■ You are a traveller," said be, ' and make it a
point to see every thing. Pray have you seen a Yankee
yet about our wharves?' ' A YankcCy^ said I, * what sort
of an animal is that ?' ' A very strange animal, I assure
you,' said he, with a smile. ' It has the body of a man,
but not the soul. However, I mean one of our New
England friends, who visit us in small crafts, to get our
money. These are certainly a very strange race of peo*
pie. You will see them with their eel-skins upon their
hair, to save the expense of barbers, and their ear-rings
in their ears, to improve their sight, to see how to cheat
you belter, 1 suppose. They would die sooner than part
with oae of these ornaments, unless you pay 'em well
for it. At the same time they live u[)on nothing. A

APPENDIX.

267

; hence
i8 of i Di-
ll perse-
ilities in
lursuiiig)
! objt^ct :
y ar*- ha-
: tacitur-
jr H|i|)i'ar
'Caust; all
to have
not com-
; disease

y be con-
ican citi-
»wn pecu-
mean, !•
; 3. The
Allegha-

pourtrays

last eve-
Imake it a
a Yankee
what sort
I assure
|of a man,
our New
[o get our
^ce of peo«
ipon their
ear-rings
to cheat
than part
'em well
•thing. A

rasher of pork is a feast for them, even on holidflys.
Their favourite drink is nothing liul switchel, or mulagses
and water, which they will tell you is belter than burgun-
dy or cliampiiign. They are however belter tauglit lliun
fed, and make the tinesl bold sailurs in the world, 'i hey can
sail to the iNorlh Pule and bctck h^;<i i in an egg shell, if tiie
ice does nut itreak it. Indeed, (bey are st.anien by birth, and
box the cumpass in their cradles. You Uiiow <jur geutrrl
laziness unliis us lor iho drudgery of coniint rce. 80 wr
leave it ail to the Yankees, i hese cralimg part uf (hem
come here at all seasons in (heir sloops and schooners,
bringing a miscellaneuus cargo, of ail sorls uf notions, not
knet:iphysical but material, such as cheese, butter, pota-
toes, cranberries, onions, bee(s, ccjfins — yuu smde, but it
is A f.icl, lliat undersianding sumk. ye.irs ago. (hat the yel-
low lever was ragiiig here wilh greai violence, some of
them very cimritutily risked their uvvn lives, to bring us
a large (pjantily of ready-made cullins of all sizes, in nests,
one iMitiui another, to supply customers at a moment's
Warning; an insult which we have hardly forgiven them
}'e(. V ou will see (hem sailing up into all our bays, rivers,
and creeks, wherever (he water runs. As the winter
comes on, (bey creep into some little harlionr, where they
ant-hor Iheir vessels, and open store on board, retailing
out (heir articles of every kind, to the poor countrymen,
who come to buy. Towards the spring, they sail away
with a load of plank or shingles, which they often gel
very dieup. Indeed the whole race of Yankee seamen
are certainly the must enterprising people in the world.
They are in all quarters of the glol)e where a penny is
to be made. In sliurt, they love money a little bttter
than their own lives. What is worst, they are not always
very nice about the means of making it ; but are ready
to break laws like cobwebs, whenever it suits their inter-
est. You know we passed an emitargo law soinelime ago,
to starve the English out of house and home, and made
all our coasting captains give bond, and take oath, that
they would not sail to any foreign port or place what-
ever. Suddenly there began to (dow a set of the most
violent gales that had ever been known, and what was
lather singular, they all insisted upon blowing towards the
West Indies, in the very teeth of (he law, au if on (Mirposc
to save the penalty of the Irands. It looked indeed, to

•>

'J68

API'RNDIX.

1 1!

II'

■I

f.i

^oo(l people, as if Proviiicneo ha«l (ieterinineil to take
tbose islaixU under his care, aiitl oe.id tlii'iii iDii|>|>lies to
save lliem rrom r.tniiie, in spite of the Aiiieric<in (Joni!;r<:HS.
Our ruh'rs, however, who liait leariil I'mtn hialory tliat
these Yankees used formerly to ilf.ii willi widhts, hc^iti
to suspect that all these storiris \.er«> raised hy the idack
art, or at least were in inufaclureil in a iiotan's otVu-e. f\'
pressly for the occasion, and tlu-tei'ore r«M<)lved In lay
them at once. So they pasM< d a la.v wliicli declared in
■uhslance that no kind of accident or dii<ir<»i) Hhoidd Ite
given in evidence, to save the penalties of the Itonds.
This act poured sweet oil upon tlic ocean at once, and
produced a profound calm, in spite of witclns and nota-
rieB, and the winds sttoh went on to l)|ow from all pointR
cf the compass as formerly, any tiling in th(> act entitled,
an Ad laijiin( an anban^o, &c. to the contrary notwith-
iitandinu;/'' TiCiler VI.

This is confessedly a caricature, hut its distorted linea-
ments may help us to some of the true features of the
New FiUj^landers They are the Scotchmen of the Unit-
ed Slates. Inhal)itin<; a country of limited extent, and
iucapahle of maintaining its «i\vn populiition, (heir indus-
try naturally and s*iccesfully directed itsilf to coinnier-
cial pursuits; liul as even thette hecame(i;r <dually insulVicient
to maintain their tiro^^int; numliers, they Ite^'Mi at an early
period of (heir history to seek for settlements amon^ their
Dei^^hlKinrs to the south and west. .As it is proliable that
those who first iiri^aii to have recourse to that expedient,
were such as preferred ihetxertion of their wits, to en
encrease of manual toil, reckless adventurers who v. ere
nvell-spareil at home, they were far from iieintr acceplalde
guests. The ploddiuK Duteh and (iermans of New York
and Pennsylvania, held ihem in particular aldiorrenci>,
and, as far as they could, hunted them from their in-igh-
bourlitMNi, whenever (hey attempted to gain a fooling in
it. "II is (says the author of Ihe "Olive Hranch,''*)
xvilhin (he iriemory of (hose over whi>se chins no raTior
has nver mowed a harves(, that Yankee and sharper were

'*' A political puhlirntioii. Iiy Matthew Carey, of I'hiladeN
phia. <uppniied tn have hud a greater run than any work of the
Hort, Kinee raineS Conirnoii Sense ; sevtn editioiiii httviuj[; been
tailed fur in thirteen months.

APPENDIX.

tlOii

to take
>l>lif» to

ury lliat

|u> liliick
itVuf. t'X-
il In lay
•iiirfil iit
tioiiM l>e
ic ItuiuU.

IIICP, Ullll

Hill notii-

II 1 1 |iointii

t ciititlrd,

iiutv^illi-

letl linea-
p»'9 of the
the Uiiit-
tunt. ami
ii'ir iiiilua-
t roiniiirr-
iittiilViiifnt
It Hii I'lirly
noii^ thi'ir
lialil« tliut
ex|i«(lii*nt,
its, to en
wlu) v.ire
iii't'eplatile
Ni'W York
liliornMH't*,
fir iH'inh-
I'ootiiiK in
trHiuh,"*)
no ray.or

lirpiT WtTC

11 niilailol-
Iwork oC llin
liiiviii)!; bucii

regnrcled os nearly synonymous, and this was not among
the low, und Iht; iiliui-ral, the liase, and the vtil<;ar. It
|H'i'va<led uli ranks of society. In the Midtlle ami South-
ern stutcs, traders were universally very much on their
guard against VaiiUee tricks, when dealin>; witlt thobo of
the Eastern." Fa{i;e J 7 J.

It is therefore ii. this class of adventurers and emigrants
we are to look lor the least lavonialtlc tiailh ol ,lie New
En^laitil character : |iatieiii, induHlrioub, l'riiu,.il, (nl«-r|itis-
in^, and iiilellit!;ent, it cannot he deiiitd. luti lh.>l (h«y are
rre(|uenily knavish, lll^'all, and avariciuua ; as men who
make ^Hin the m.tttter Sjoin^ ol tin ir arlioiis.

Here we perceive the force and in»'ani;iii of the Vir;;i-
nian satire, hut here too its application inuttt lie rr»iri<'l-
ed : even emigration senns to he so far nu>ul<U'd into a
system, that it is no lon}:('r the resort nurelx of roiiiics
and VH^ahonds, hut is emUracid as an eli(;ilite nioiU* of
bettering their condition i>y the yotin^ and entt rt isln^ of
all cla^Hi's ; it is a whoWsoaie drain to tin e\uii«iance of
pO|Mj|atioii, and preserves at home that comparative ei|Ua-
lity. on which |)uhlick happiness and morals so enlirely
depend. The New Kn^landers should he sei n at home
to he correctly Judged of: as far us testimony pus. it is
universally in their favour. ■' 1 h.-el a priile, and | lensnre
(siys Mr. Carey) in iloinu; justice to the y»'omanry of the
Kaslern Stales : they will not siilVcr in a compari^o)l with
the same class of men in any part of the worhl. 'J'hey are
upriu;ht, soher, orderly, und retrular ; shrewd, intellitieiit,
and welliidonned ; and I helieve there is not a urealer de-
gree of uenuine native nrlianity amoii^ the yeomanry of
any country under the canopy ol heaven " " Olive
Hianch." Va\ie '27.'i. This is the character my own »'X-
perience recoirnized in the inhaliilanis of the lieaiitiful
(jentsee country, which has heen enlirely cleared and
settled liy New r^nirlnmlers.

it is imposHihle to ipiit the Kaalern Slates without,
speaking of their reli<,{ioii, which is scarcely more their
i ghiry ill their own eyes, than Iheir ^.^pprohrium in those of
their nei|u;lihonrs.

Pretensions to siiperiour saiidily are always received
withjealousy, especially liy a people, amon^ whom devo-
tion is ill repute. The coiilrasi loo, heiwixl the pious
seeminy;, and stihslaniial kiit«\ery of many of the New I'lii

•270

AFI'tNDIX.

• ^1'

gland adventurers, nnturall}' brings tlnse pretniBiona into
atill i^reater discredit, and extorts a wish, that tli(>y liad
either a lillle more morulily, or a little less religion.
There is. however, no rejison to iloiihl that in the bulk of
ihe inhabitants, reli<]i;ion is not mcr* ly a shew and pretext,
hnt a beliif and practice : ini-n lire of nuilual hypocrisy,
when it has grown too common l(» impose.

Calvinism, ri^id, uneompro'nisinu; Ciilviiiism, is ili»^ in-
heritimce the New Knj^landrrs have received Irom their
r^ref.ithers; it was the siiered lire their ancestorit boie with
them into exile, nnd vnIiicIi has continued (o burn in the
hearts, and on the altars of their descendants; somelimos
indeed like " Ihe rurnace l)lue,'* lo which Moloeb treated
his worshippers, but of lute yetrs willi a b>ss filial, though
still ancry, liu;ht, round which the trumpets and tnnitreU
of the priests still soinni '* in dreiidfnl harmony."

Resides the inihdtrence of Hpirilu:d prii.e, (for tpiriliiai
pride is a ln:'ury of the highest rale to those v\hoare too fru-
gal, or too conscientious l«> lolerHle jir»»i<9er enjoyments,) the
early colonists perceived Ihe Calv inistick system of church
discipline to be best suited lo the poverty and simjdiclty
of their condition. Calvinism lias therefore grown up
with republicanism, and from an accidental connexion,
claims lo he of Ihe same kindred : but Ihe vital spirit of
Calvinism is intolenince, and intolerance is in no shape a
republican principle. It is true, this spirit is, lo a certain
extent, mitigated by the partinl influence of g(»od sense.
And by the temper of the age, but it is still Ihe same in
essence, and wails but a favournble opr>orlimily lo prove
itself the snme in action. I do ool, h(»wever, ascribe in-
tolerance to Calvinism as a peculiarity; it is a (pialily
common to religious sects of every di-uomination, when-
ever failh girds on the sw. id td' temporal power. 'I'lm
disposition of any sect to persecute others seeiiH in exact
proportion to itx Hirength and credulity ; increasing as
these inirrense and unite, and growing mild as «hey fade
and separate. Thus all religioim have in their turns iieen
persecuting and tolerant, bloody anil inofl'eiisive. The
Romr/> Cathnjiek religion, Inrmb ss in Canada, and in
the United Stales, opprest in Ireland, bedridden in
France, stilt exhibits the vitality of its poison in .Spain
urd Portugal. The Anglican ehurch, perseculing even
in ill cradle, persecuting at its flrst establishment in Vir-

if^

APPENDIX.

'27 i

ions into
llu'y had
rcli^iun.
i^ hulk o!"

I preti'xi,
j'pocrisy,

8 llie in-
oin tlieir
)ort' with
rn in tli«
iinftiincs

II iTV.\U'i\

il, (houfi;h
tunlti'flH

r e|)iriliiul
re toclVii-
i»'ht9.)lhc
ui'i'hnri'li
iim,tlit'ily
[rrown up
itiincxion,
Hpiril oi
<) ahiipe a
H ntrlHin
(mI sense ,
fiamr in
lo prove
gcrilnf in-
11 (piHlily
I, \vh«a-
r. Th.-
ill rxHCt
iiHin<! as
h« y liule
1 iH h»'en
.. Tho
, anil in
iililen in
ill Spain
in^ «'V«*n
tu Vir-

ginia, ami still armed with exclusive privileges and penal
sliitutfs, hiiif giuwn gradually toU'ranl fruin a decay oftailh
and a division ui power. If Calvinism still relaina in
America the iiari>hi'r features of ita Ibiuider and early dU-
eiples, it is hf cause (he New Eiiulunders have as yet
fountl little teiaure lo unsettle their lalier; while he-
iievcra, hy eh.'vating their mortal p'-.sBi<)n» and human
weaknesses to the throne of C(>d, hiive miide a cherished
idol of tlieir own pri(!e, and authuri/e intolerance by Di-
vine »'x;im|de.

It i<) (u he re<;relted. that this fanatical fipirit is not con-
lined to the KHSlern States : either, for, that it is in itself
naturally contagious, <»r ihal it has hcen carried ahroad
by emigration, it is now spreading rapidly through all
parts of the I'nior) j sometimes, indeed, in a nuinner, which
may well provoke u smile;* but more Irtipicntly with a

* I oner plckrd up a work entilhd *' Tlie Cliristian's Jour-
nal," tvrittt n t>y a niinisier of liathliiinton. the aim of which
was to extract some lelinioiis leelinji Irom «!very ohjeet which
niii{hl meet a ( lirist;aii eye, aK for inslaiicu, " iSOw the hiitelier
tihaves the net k of yciud* r sow, that he may cive her the kil-
linjc stub, so Saian tickles iiiid lla'.teis n^y h id that he n>ay nair-
der her. — Veialer feed a fltx k o*' j^eeso ; a covey of diieks ; lei
nie never resMiible the tirst iii bring hendy and high-minded i
nor the la<>t ins|ieakie^' uiihIi, and doing little, in walking kIow,
Kv. — Yonder are tvvi, ki'n<i. one for dryiiiK eornor malt, another
for biiininir briek'- : lliiiik. my soul, how Jehovah's son was (tri-
ed, roast* d. uuti hiirii* amidst hisKatliir's indignation."— -The
follotvinK must, I iuiaiiine, he spoken in a female character ;
*'llow filthy is this stable; hut stop my soul, with wonder
stop ! Wus Jehovah liorn in a stable lor me ? liid he lie in a
manner, that h« n'i;;lit |i< for ev<r bt rvvixt my hriasts, and I
for ever in the in:l;inres of his love ?"—•' There stands the
ranked rnhbage ; ebiedy vale;,! le lor its large solid hunrt ; as
my lit art is before (xid, so iMich am I, no nore. — Hero rome
persons in i ouches, and others on I orses ; lur thou, my i>oul, ride
in the cliuriot of the wood of I t banon, and en the white hortr
of the dospel ~ Yonder isuerovvil ol people, who attend the
neighloiii mg '| a to di ink or lathe m it. Itlessed JetUN, mine-
ral v«ell, |j>ri at spa. let us daily hatiiu in thy blood.— Here they
make glasK : ilw or gmal is stones, sand, kelp, and Nueh briny
materials; !»' what grinding, meliing, and p«dishin}( they trans-
form it into the transparent substance ! I Ini.k, my loiil.on ll."
Ireniendons giindiiig and n>eliiii||; uf the • on ol (•(hI, in the like-
nt'S8 of »intul tlesh. to prepare the gluyiii >< .i ni I.i.n ii^htiuuk'

•v

272

AFI'KNUIX.

ri<;iility of as[)ect, befoie wliicli the t;rauc9 mid pleasuriit
of iU'e wittier. The AinpricniiB mv hnbitiially uerious and
eiU'iit, even heyoiirl Encjiish tacitiirnily.* Tlit-ir 9|iiri(8 arc
Bcliloin (>t<>v;ilei|. exce|it Ity llir a|i|ilutaliun of some extra-
orilitiary 8(in:ul'iiil. either in liie shape of politicks or li-
quor; they an- Ihiiti excellenily Qtted to become vessels ol"
elef^tioii and r«'s;eneraliou : the soiir leaven ferments
tli'.)ii;;h thnir fnimes, until ail the kindlier juices curdle,
and h'ii>!»ii)es!« becomes a deadly sin.

In mmy p.irts of the country dancinp; is held to be an
ahomiii'ilion, which even the youns; of l»oth sexes have
been intluced by the penalty of eternal damiiKtion to re-
nounce : perhaiis this is no i>;reat sacrifice, for I have
sometimes fincied, that thoii<^li the Americans iire great
dancers by habit, d'Miciii^ is with them an acquired taste,
which will not lonu; slatil its ^;i-ouiid acaiiist pleastirea
more C(>'nr"ni il to their imfural tlisposliion ; still it is a
m:'.tter of re!j;ref, in as much as the severity of their cha-
racter evidently requires rather to l>e teinpere«l by social
enjoyments, than stiifened iiy gloomy creetir, and the cant
of fanaticism.

Havina: testified in favour of the morality of the New
Ens^landers, it is natural to ini|uii'e how far it m«y bo
supposed to originate in, or be strengthened liy their re-
liiti.iUH tenets, '''bis, however, is a question of not very
easy solution. When a people is well educated and iu-

ness. and a boUle for Ood to put my teari In." This is rertninly
iiis^eninus ; " t1:^re i<< plenty orrlolli well dy<'H. ami I hopi- well
male ; here is fine linen, strong iiml tlioroii<rhly whitened : km\
mi'inoriaU of our sin ; had not Ailam nuule ns nuked lo our sin,
we sli )iiM liiiK- III) U"ed of this lo rover lis."

The tiillow'inii IS an «>p<loini' oC the pneioas doi-triiie of eitic-
tion and <>anetitieation l»v a;rari' : " Here liiMli oui- wlio rrrkons
hiinsi<if the chief nC sinners, anil yet Itohlly rlaiins .Irsiis lor liis
own • nti I 'irinlv extu'els salvation liy virtii" of tin- eovenant of
jcr'icr made with Him ■ may my life, and m^ last end, he like
Tiii."

* I have lici-n fce(|imally aneisnd diiriok' my jmirnfy, with
ohsprviiiix twiilvo or lourtern persons in'Diii'.^ lo lakt; their
mi>als, as thev do at th«' eoiintry taverns, and orparaliii'.; with-
out littering as ininv w »rds as therr were dishei on the table ;
yei tii'v tv«ri< not in ;(uiiL>i'al KtrAo^eri, but fellow-towiisinon.
boarding at the iiouiu.

•••i,

APPENDIX.

273

>a8ure»
)us and
rits are
! extra-
(s or li-

89ol8 of

irinents
curdle,

be an
ea have
n to re-

1 have
TV great
«d taste,
ileasiires

1 it is a
leir clia-
ly social
the caul

[he New

inw ho

their re-

u)t very

I and in-

crrtninly
lope well
ihmI : xatl
our sill,

«r eltjc-

|H lor hi<
•nant of
l)(> like

• y, with
Wo their
nn with-
|i«> tahlii ;
iwiisiuoti.

dustrious, when property is so far equally divided, that
the extremes of wealth uiiil poverty are scarcely known,
their morals will necesaarily i)e pure. 'J'he iwu main
sources of vice are want and i<^uorance : let a man know
Avell hia own interest, and remove from him the blandish-
ments of luxury on the tnie hand, and the horrours of
poverty on the other, and he will have little temptation
to work his own ruin Ity iilleuess, jtrotli^acy, or ilespair.
Such is the condition of the New Eiiml.iiid States, and
under such circuni8l<inces, it is prohalile they would
continue in the paths of morality, because they are in
fact in the straiti;ht ro<id, whatever might lie the form of
fheir relitfious worship. C'alvinit>m liowever, lakes cre-
dit, as mi|;hl be expected, for their good conduct, and
:laim8 the merit of having <:iven birth to virtues, which
p'olmlily it has only not lieen alile lo destroy. Time
will bring alioul a *\vv,iy of fiiih, and time will also in-
troduce luxury and \^;lnt. IUIi;iion and morality wilt
then deciiy l<>irf lln-r, and eollaieral events will be mis-
taken for cause and elftet.

If ihe inlliienee of religion can in any way be fairly
appreciated, it muni be liy olmerving the character and
couduct of the prieailaMxl, in whom, as u body, its ei-
sence must be peeuliiirly concenlnttd.

At the period of Ihe Frrneh revolution, and for some
years after, ihe N«'W England clergy, were, to use the
words of Fisher Ames, '^powerful auxiliaries of lawful
authority/' "Waleh those unuratiful souls," preaches
Dr. Pari>4h in 170!), "wbt» murmur liliout taxation, and
oppresHion, the hiirden^ of ^ovrrntnent and religion.
They have f»llow»»hi|» with «tiu' i nt in «'s« ; they are trai-
tors to (io»l and < 'lirUiinuily." " As eiii/euft" (preaches
the Rev. .leditliah iM'tse, at the name period) " we ought
with one heart to eh av(> |o, and support our own go-
verninenl ; we on;;lil lo repel xsilb indignation every
•tugs«Mtion, and nlanderonit inHinnntion, calculated to
weakt.'U a j'.ial contidence in Hie rectitude of the inten-
tions of our eoiiitlitiiled iiiitlioriliea. Our government, it
itself the inoAl peiT'Cl, llir bexl lolministered, the least
burdeiiHome, ami most happyfying to the people, of any
on earth."

A convention of conii:re«.[atioii;d ministers )»reB«'nted au
address to Frii'/ident AdunH, in I7',)B, in which we read;

3.j

.Hm

274

APPENDIX.

" The intimnte connexion between our civil and Chris-
tiao hlc88iti!2;8, is alone sufficient to justify the derided
part which the clerp;y of America have uniformly takea
in 8Uji|)orting the constituted authorities, and political ia-
terests of their country."

Thus far all is consistent, and as it should be ; " Now
mark whiil follows.'' During the late war, we find these
lame in.iividu,>ls, whom the Federalists had represented*
and who had represented themselves to be the stead-
fast supporters of authority and order, not only joining
heart and voice to the party in opposition to the govern-
ment, but actually heating " the drum Ecclesiaatick," to
excite open rebellion. " if you do not wish to become
the slaves of those who own slaves, and who are them-
selves the slaves of French slaves, you must, in the lan-
guage of the day, cut the connexion," &c. Sermon by
the Rev. F. Gardiner, Boston, preached July 23, 1812.

According to the Kev. Dr. Osgood, whoever assisted
the government, in any way, to carry on the war, was,
*'ln the sight of God, and his law, a murderer." Ser-
mon, June 27, 1812.

" ^Vere not the authors of this war in character nearly
akin to the deists and atheists of France ; were they not
men of hardened hearts, seared consciences, reprobate
minds, and desperate wicke<lneas, it seems utterly in-
conceivable that they should have made the declaration."
Idem.

*' If ut the present moment no symptoms of civil war
appear, they certainly will soon; unless the courage of
the war party should fail them." Idem.

The Reverend Elijah Parish thus exhorts his con-
gregation. '* New England, if invaded, would be obliged
to defend herself; do you not then owe it to your child
ren. owe it to your God, to make peace for yourselves ?"
Sermon, April 7lh, 1814.

" The full vials of despotism are poured on your heads,
and yet you may challenge the ploilding Israelite, the
■lipid African, the feehle Chinese, the drowsy Turk, or
the fro/.en exile of Siberia, to equal you in tame sub-
mission to the powers that be." hlrm.

" How will the supiiorlers of this antichristivn war-
fare endure their senteiioe ; endure the fire that for ever
burnt; the worm which never dies; th< liosannaii of

and Chris
decided
nly takea
ilitical in-

"Now
tiiid these
ireeented,
be stead-
y joiuiog
e govern-
stick," to
o become
re them-

the lau-

rmoD by

23, 1812.

assisted
war, was,
ir." Ser-

er nearlj
they not
reprobate
tterly in-
luration.*'

[^ivil war
}urage of

his con-
e obliged
ur child
rselves ?"

ur heads,
i-lile, the
Turk, or
tme sub-

ivn war-

for ever

lannaii of

ArPKNDIX.

275

Heaven, while (he smoke of (heir torment ascends for
ever and ever." Idem.

How is this strange contrariety of sentiments to be
accounted for ? By a love of peHCf, and a devout hatred
to war in the alistract ? Ala? ! Ihcir uwn sermons scarce-
ly militate more ai£Hinst this supitosition, than did the
bloody cuirass of tlie bisho(» of Beauvais. " Cursed be
he" (,ireached Ur. Parish, in 1790) "that kpepetb hack
his sword from blood. Let him that hath none, sell his
coal and (my one. The contest is desirable." Shall it
be said they yielded in (he latter instance to the love
of fre»-d(»m and of their country ? That they supported
the ciiiistitution against tyranny ? But of what tyranny
could they complain ? The war might be impolilick, it
miglit he hostile to the interests of New England; and
if such was the case, they had, as citizens, an undoubt-
ed rit^ht to use all constitutional methods of abridging
its duration, and exposing its folly; Itut it had been
conslitutiouHlly declared, and approved by a congress
freely elected; and though the New England Stales
mitfht striiid in (he shoes of a mioori(y, this is scarcely
sutlicieiit rcHHon for (he ministers of reliifiun (o preach
sedition and rcliellion. We are compelled therefitre to
seirch for the (rue m<)(ives of (heir conduc(, among (husc
passions wliicli do le»s( honoOr to human nH(ure. With-
in the peiiiid of this change in their sentiments, (he reins
of goverimient li»id passed from (he hanils of the Fe-
dcr.'Wis'H idto those of the Democrats, in whom they
beheld llic ennmiea of religion, because they were
friends of rtiler (ion. Tpon similar grounds, they hated
Fiance, wheiher republican or imperial, and adhered to
England, Itecaiise slie shared and gratitied (heir hatred.
They love»l n< iilie" Entiland nor fedendism, but (heir
own power; which (hey believed to be connected wl(h
the c Mise of legilini.icy and intolerance all over (he
world. *^ Puwer is universally (he idol of (he human

♦ The nevereiid J. IVInrse oliserves, in liis aooount of Con-
iiertic 'it. " The elerjry. wlio are niiineroiis and as a ()ody very
rospeciahle, have hilh('ii< preserved a kind of aristocralieal
baliince, in the very demorrntical RnvernnieKt of (he state,
whieli has happily operated as a ehrrk upon the overbearing
spirit orrepiihlieiuiism." lie arid*. "Tlieir inlliienrn is on the
inereaite." And to thin he atlribiiteii the reformation of man°
nerh.

276

APPENDIX.

heart ; and whenever superstition builds temples, (he idol
obliiins a favoured niche in (he sanctuary. As lung
however as the temporal sword is withheld, and the hie*
rarchy unendowed with the plunder of credulity, there
vill l)e rtMind in a free country, a continual elasticity re-
coilint; at; linst. and throwing olF spiritual oppression. It
is fur this reason Unitarianism is m:iking nearly the
same progress among the few who think for themselves,
even in New England, that fanaticism is among the
many who take their creed upon (rust. "It would as-
tonish, and frighten many of the pious people in New
York and Philadelphia" (I quote from the Olive Branch,
page 275) "to he inlornied ; hut they may nevertheless
rely upon the information ns induldtahly true, that a
large portion of the clergy in the town of Boston are
ahsolute Unitarions, and scout the idea of the divinity
of Jesus Christ, as completely and explicitly as ever
Dr. Priestley did; and let me add, that the present
Principal of Harvard College, was known to he an Uni-
tarian when he was elected. 'I'his fact estahlishes the
very great extent and prevaleace of the doctrine."

THE CENTRAL STATES.

There is no portion of (he Union which contains more
enlightened individuals, more useful institutions, or a
B(ronger s|tirit of literary and scientifsck improvement,
than the cities of New York, and Philadelphia; hut there
are several reasons which prevent the citizens of the
Central States from acquiring a general character, as
strongly marked as is that of the Eautern. They are
composed of several heterogeneous Imdies. The ancient
Dutch race still exists, with many of its primitive hahils,
towards the centre of the state of New York; towartls
the north and west, its population vonsists chieHy of New
£nglanders. A large portion of Pennsylvania is inhahited
by Hermans, who are still unacquainted with the Knglish
language, and are consequently rather a social circle ex-
isting within the State, than a porticm of the community
amalgamating with it. The Quakers too, are a body
whose distinctive habits necessarily operate against the

APPENDIX.

277

formation of a general character, because lltcy are alroni;-
er tlian any general caiifies liy whij-h such a eh»ir«rtf-r is
en2;en(lere(l. These circuinalancea an- h:inllj-. how<ver,
felt as (Ii9adv;ir)tau;e8 ; in some res|ifet8, they are pruba-
hly iln« eoijlriiry.

As cili'/eii8. the Dutch and (5erm:in8 are peaceahle and
inthi9frioi!9, thoujfh not very e'lli^lilrneil ; ihe N»'w Kn-
j^lanilers introtluce ttie hesi qunlitie» of Ihrir rharaelers:
the Quakers are inleHi};enl <iu<l humane. A*lveiilijrer8
from all counlries constitute the most uusouimI piiii of the
population, ami are likely to give a 8lrani:«'i an unfavoura-
hle opinion ofihewhoU*; in other re9(;Mi8, the Central
States seem those in A^hieh foreigners ui 11 lind the lone
of manners, and spirit of society must aceonunoduting and
easy.

THE SOUTHERN STATES.

It is impossible to consider the character of the south-
ern states, without again adverting to liie pernicious ef-
feets of slavery.

Land cultivated by slaves requires a considerable capi-
tal, and will therefore he divided among h small number
of proprietors. Experienet* too. shews, that the quantity
of labour performed by slaves, is inurh below that ol an
equal number of free cultivators; the numher of persons
deriving support from the soil will consequently be lees :
but the loss is not in qua <tity only, tlu' quality is pro-
portionably deteriorated. He who c«'nini.ii'.«!f lite sweat
of others, will lie little inclined to toil lnnisrll ;* ilie in-
clination will diminish with the neemsiiy. The fact is
so consonant with this ri-mark. that in the Southern stales.
the lisherieg, and all branriitt* of aelivf exertion, fall into
the himils of the New HiiL'lMnilei« : t<o much so, that the
city of Ch.nleHiitii ii^ supjliid with fish ly smacks front
Marblehead auti Boston. iMiitiate lU'Uhl be siqiposed to
have partial inlhienee in pro'liiem'. linn « ("Ted, were tiol
auch individualM as are ciwnpellMl l>y tbe nature of their
occupations to rely much un tlu ii uv.n rllorls, found no

* "Of the proprietors of slaves, a very small propnrtinii in
dead are over soon to lalxtiir." Jvjfenon's Nittet, p. 2JI.

I WH

278

APPENDIX.

wise inreriour in attainments and application to the same
description of persons in (he more tem|>crute portion? of
the Union. Nay, have not almost all the siillricat re-
gions of (he globe been alterout^^' the seats of sloth and
enterprise ?

The sr.me dietrihution of property which renders la-
bour unnecessary to its |iroprietor, is no leas fatal to his
mental improvement. Experience informs us, that means
and leisure are less powerful excitemenis to study than
the spur of necessity, anil hope of prolit. Information
will be first sought, that it may he useful, it will after-
wards be [torused for the pleasure of the Hcquisition only.
The plaittor has therefore been ever reckoned among the
least enlightened members of society ; but says a pro-
Terb, Those whom the devil (inds idle, he sets about his
own work. Dissipdlion must be always the resource of
(he unoccupied and iil-instrucled.

If the political effects of slavery are pernicious to the
citizen, its moral effects are still more fntal to the man.
" There must doubtless," (says Mr. .IilVerson,) " be an
unhappy influence on the in inners of the people, pro-
duced by the existence of slavery among us. The whole
commerce between master and slave, is a perpetual ex-
ercise of the most boisterous passions ; the most unremit-
ting despotism on (he one part, and degrading submis-
sions on (he o(her. Our children see this, and learn to
imitate it, for man is aii imitative animal. The parent
storms, the child looks on, catches the lineaixients of
wrath, puts on the same airs in the circle of smaller
slaves, give loose to the worst of passions, and thus
nursed, educated, and daily exercised in tvranny, can-
not but be stamped by it with odious iieculiarities. The
man must be a prodigy who can retain his morals and
manners undepraved by such circumstances." Notes
p. 241.

We know the time of prodigies is past, and that na-
tural effects will follow their causes. The manners of
the lower classes in the Southern states are brutal and
depraved.* Those of the upper, corrupted by power, are

* The stage drivers, for instance, are more inhuman, and
much infcrioiir in derency of behaviour to the negroes, whp
are sometimes employed in the same capacity : so that it

APPENDIX.

279

frequent ly arrogant and assuming : unused to restraint or
contradiction ot any iiiud, they are necessarily quarrel-
some ; and in their quarrels, the native t'erucity of their
hearts hrenks out. Uuelling is not only in general vogue
and fashion, but is |)racti8f(4 with circumstances of pe-
culiar vindictiveness. It is usual when two persons
have agreed to fight, for each to go out regularly ami
practise at a mark, in the presence of their friends, during
the interval which precedes their meeting; one of the
parties therefore commonly falls.

Did the whole of the altove causes operate ^vith undi-
minished influence, the result would lie horrible; but there
are several circumstances continually working in mitiga-
tion of those evils.

The American form of government, as powerfully im-
pels to energy, as slave proprietorship does to indolence.
The example uf neighbouring states continually urges on
improvements. The learned and mercantile professions
have little direct interest in the slave system, and are
therefore less infected by its contagion. 1 have already
noted a distinction betwixt the farmers of the upper
country, and the planters of the lower. There is thus a
considerable portion of comparatively untainted popula-
tion. Even among the planters, there are individuals,
Tvho, by a judicious UbC of the advantages of leisure and
fortune, by travel, and extensive intercourse with the
world, have acquired manners more politthed, and senti-
ments more refined, than are the common lot of their fel-
low-citizens in other portions of the Union : but these
are rare exceptions, stars in darkness, which shine, more
sensibly to mark the deep shadows of the ojiposite ex-
treme, where the contrast is strong, perpetual, and dis-
gusting.

♦'>.!

THE WESTERN STATES

The inhabitants of Kentucky are, or at least were (foi
in America the wheel of society turns so swiftly, that

seems not improbable that tlio efferts of slavery, upon the
lower orderr: at least, are ffiur« debasiu]{ to the governing claiiK.
than to the governed.

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P™
>

280

APPENDIX.

K ' < :i

20, years work the changes of a century) considered as
the irishmen of the United States : that is to suy, a simi-
lar state of society had produced, in a certain degree,
similar manners.

The Keutuckians inhabited a fertile country, with few
large towns or mmiifHCtoriea; they had therefore both
leisure and abundance, as far as the necessaries of life
went: they were consequently disposed to conviviality
and social intercourse; and as the arts were little under-
stood, and the refinements of literature and science un-
known, their board was seldom spread by the graces, or
their festivity restricted within the boundaries of temper-
ance. They were in fact hospitat)le and open-hearted,
but boisterous, and addicted to those vulgar, and even
brutal amusements, which were once common in Vir-
ginia, and have been common in all countries, as long as
man knew no pleasure more retined, than the alternate
excitement and dissipation of his animal spirits, by feats
of physical strength and coarse debaucher3\

To a certain extent therefore, there were points of
similitude betwixt the Kentucky rarmnrs and the Irish
gentry, but there was always this point of distinction ; in
Kentucky, leisure and abundance bebms^ed to every man
who would work for them; in Ireland, they appertained
only to the few for wh(»m I he many worke<l.

Kentucky has of late years become a manufacturing
state: towns have grown up rapidly, and the luxuries of
social intercourse are scarcely less understood in Lexing-
ton than in New York : miinners must therefore have un-
dergone a considerable change, and those peculiarities
of character, which were once supposed to mark Keu-
tuckians, must probably now be sought among the more
recent inhabitants of Tennessee or Indiana. It may safe-
ly be affirmed, that between the Alleghanies and the Mis-
souri, every degree of civili/.ation is to be met with
which shades the character of social man, from a state
of considerable luxury and refinement, until on the very
varge of the pale, he almost ceases to be gregarious,
and attaches himself to a life of savage independence.
There are settlers, if they may be so called, who are
continually pushing forward, abandoniug their recent im-
provements as fast as neighbourhood overtakes them, and
pluDgiug deeper into primeval wildernesses. Mr. Boon.

APPENDIX.

281

idered as
y, a sirai-
in degree,

with few
fore both
es of life
nviviality
tie under-
jience un-
graces, or
of temper-
!n-hearted,

and even
>n in Vir-
as long as
J alternate
s, by feats

points of

the Irish

inction ; in

every man

ippertuiued

lufacturing
Uixiirirs of
n Lexing-
e have un-
pciiliiirities
lark Ken
the more
may safe-
d the Mis-
met with
Lm a state
ji the very
[gregarious,
pendence.
, wlio are
recent ini*
them, and
r. Boon.

if a person of this description ; he explored Kentucky in
1760; since this period, he has constantly formed the
advanced patrole of civilization, until he is now, I be-
lieve, on the Missouri. It is a maxim with him, that a
country is too thickly peopled, as suon as he cannot fall
a tree from the forest into his own inclosure. "

It seems a very simple process to go and settle in a fer-
tile country, where land may be procured for two dollars
the acre; a glance, however, over an uncleared, and hea-
vily-timitered tract, is sutficient, not only to correct our
notions of the facility of the enterprize, but to render it
astonishing, that men are found sullicienlly venturesome
and enduring to undertake the task. The stoutest la-
bourer might well shrink at the prospect, hut hope and
freedom brace t)oth soul and sinews. The manner in
which the young adventurer sets out upon his piltrnmage,
has been already d<^8crii)ed in livelier colours I ban mine.
There is someiliing almost poetical in the contidence and
hardihood of such undertakinirs, and 1 have heard a kind of
hailadsong, which turns upon them, with some such

burthen as this : **

• '■•«•♦,.. ,,ji

'• 'Tls you can reap and mow, love, • . ' '

V^ 11 And I i-aii Kpiu, and si<w, • ' -

And we'll sot t if* on the bunks of «

The pleasant Ohio." ^

How these adventurers have thriven is well known ; Ken-
tucky, first settled in 1773, in 1 702 had a po|iulalion esti-
mated at 100.000, and by the census of 1810. at 400 511.
Morse reckons the whole population of the Western terri-
tory in 1700, at 6000. According to the census of 1810,
Ohio alone contained 227,843. Tennessee 261,227 ; and
the other territories about 1 18,000 ; making an increase of
loo fold in 20 years. This rale is prodigious, even when
compared with the most thriving of the Atlantick States.
The population of New York, was in ^,,,

1750 - - 97,000

. 1786 - - 230.000 » ,,.♦ * '

1805 . - 580,000 i„ A.

, • 1810 - - 000,000

"Averaging an increase of about twenty-four fold in forty
years. In must of the New England States, the increase

:i6

282

APPENDIX.

«'•'■?»

is extremely small : so that they seem to have nearly at-
tained tlie amount uf pupuiatiun their soil will support
with ease and comfort. Couneclicu; contained in

1756 • 130.611 inhabitants

1774 - . 108,000

' , ' 1782 - - 203,000

,' 1805 - - 252,000

1810 - - 262^000
It may be supposed that with such an extraordinary
growth, the demand for labour through the Western
Slates is very great : even in Upper Canada the want of
mechanit'ks and artiflcers is severely Telt. The cause is
easily assigned. Whenever great facilities exist for be-
coming a land-owner, men will unwillingly submit to the
drudgery of menial or mechanical occupations, or at least
submit to them so lon^ only, as will atford them the
means of taking up what they will consider a preferable
mode of life. Wages are therefore very high through the
whole of the continent ; in the new States from the natu-
ral scarcity of labour, in the old, from the competition of
the new. I saw the following terms offered to journey-
men tailors in a Knoxville newspaper : three dollars for
making a coat ; one for each job ; their board and lodging
found them, and certain employment for one year. Knox-
ville is the capital of East Tennessee.

The views and feelings of the Western States are natu-
rally influenced by their local position. All their Streams,
the Ohio, the Wabash, the Miami, the Kanhawa, and the
Monongahela, discharge themselves finally into the Mis-
sissippi ; the Missouri coming from the opposite direction,
finds the same vent. The inhalntanis look therefore to
the gulph of Mexico, as the natural outlet of their com-
merce; to them the Allantick States are the back coun-
try. What changes this feeling may eventually work in
the Union, it is now useless to inquire, but it seems evi-
dent, that at no distant date, the Western Stales will
have far outgrown their neighbours in power and popula-
tion.

Already, the anticipating glance of ambition surveys an
ample field; the whole continent is parcelled out. Be-
sides Indiana, the Mississippi, the Illinois, the Michigan,^
and the North-west territories, equal in extent to four
Englands, the Missouri territory is thus described in the

APPENDIX.

283

early at-
Bupport

IIDtS ,

lordinary
Western
B want of

> cause is
it for be-
nit to the
)r al least
them the
ireferable
rough the

the natu-
)rtitioa of
» journey-
dollars for
id lodging
•. Knox-

) are natu-
ir streams,
a, and the

> the Mis-
direction,
erefore to
their com-
tack coun-
y work in
jeems evi-
itates will
nd popula-

surveys an

out. Be-

Michigan,,

nt to four

bed in the

American " Traveller's Directory :" " Boundaries — On
the north, unsettled country ; south, Louisiana, and Gulf
of Mexico ; east, Upper Canada, Northwest territory^ Illi-
nois territory, Kentucky, Tennessee, Missi38i|)pi territory,
and Louisiana : west, the Paciflck Ocean, and south-west
the Spanish internal provinces. Extent from north to
south, about 1380 miles; from east to west, about 1680
miles. Area, about 1,580,000 square miles." The popu-
lation is as yet something inadequate, iM'ing only 21,000.
It is curious to observe, for how much, or rather for how
little, the rights of the real proprietors of the soil, the In-
dians, count in these convenient distributions. They are
in fact considered as a race of wihl animals, not less inju-
rious to settlement and cultivation than wolves and
bears; but too strong, or too cunning to be exterminated
exactly in the same way. Their final extinction, how-
ever, is not less certain. Then will the Queen of the
Pacifick tiscend the throne of undisputed empire, *' €t vie-
trix dominabitur OrbiJ'^

No. III.

■*^

OP THE AMERICAN GOVERNMENT.

'• The United States, despairing of producing, good mnnners, or a regard
for private duties, by iuftisini; into covernincnl tlie stront^cst oolicitatioiix *o
disregard publick duties ; endeavour to serurr tin* nmniiity of eovprnniput,
as the hcsi security against the licentioiMiess of tiie people. They forbear
to excite ambition an<l avarice by hereditary orders, or fppnrnte interests;
and provide against both, by election, reHponsihilily, and division of power.
They exchidt the vicious moral (|u»lities, fear, and superstition, as elements
of goverinnent ; and feiect for ilo basis, the most perfect moral quality of
human nature."— //7» Inquiry intn Ihe Prinriphs nnd I'ulini (if the (lorem-
VMntqftht United Slitles, by John Taylor, f'irginiu*

* I am mnch inclebted to this able expositor of nrpublican
prinriples, for the information he has afi()r(l(>(l iro on the Ame-
riran Ciovernmrnt ; were his manner equal to his matter, his
** Inquiry" could not but produro a sensihlc efl«>rt on the
!icieiice of politicks ; an it is, the strength and originality of hU
intellect amply reward the labour of a perusal.

If J fi

•-#■

284

APPENDIX.

INTRODUCTION. '-;

X HE observations I Hm about to offer on the American
Governnaent refer less to its forqas and details, which are
sufficiently understotMl, than to its principles, and to the
essential points of difference betwixt it and all existing
governments. In considering these, I shall endeavour to
follow the route traced by the Americans themselves, by
beginning with general principles, and thence deducing
the constituent elements of their polity ; preserving
throughout, the line of argument adopted by what is
termed the Democratick party, in opposition to the Fe-
deralists, some of whom hold principles widely different.

SECTION I.

I'. ^ ! / \l

,\.. J

OP NATIONAL SOVEREIGNTY.

Individual advantage is thb object fpr which men
unite in society, and sacrifice a portion of individual
liberty. Government is compounded of the portions so
sacrificed.

The purport of its creation is to guarantee the aggre-
gate of these individual advantages which constitute the
publicli good. But although almost all governments con-
fess this end of their being, yet having been founded, not
upon a recognition of the principle, but upon the usurpa-
tion of some, and the weakness of others, the publick good
has been almost invariably resolved into the good of one
man, denominated a king or emperour, or of a few deno-
minated nobles, and privileged classes. The Americans
had the singular advantage of being called u|>on to build
up a frame of government, *' ab initio,''^ so that no reason
could exist for legitimating an abuse, merely because it
was established. They were called upon loo, ut a period,
when men's minds were thoroughly imbued both with a
knowledge of the principle, and with a deep sense of the
calamities which a neglect of it had inflicted on the world.
They therefore considered it as the key-stone and cement
of their social edifice.

♦•* #

APPENDIX.

285

Tierican
ich arc
I to the
sxisting
vour to
veB, by
educing
•serving
wliat it
tlie Fe-
lifferent.

icl) men
idiv'idual
rtioDB so

•

aggre-
itute the
nts con-
|ded, not
usurpa-
|ick good
A of one
[w deno-
jericans
to build

reason

ause it

period,

with a
|e of the

world. •

cement V

The end and purpose ol government having thus been
agreed upon, the question naturally ;<rose of how this end
was to be obtained/ Here a previous consideration be-
came necessary ; namely, u|)(>n whut basis governments
had been and should he erteled.

All government? evidently dt^pc-nded upon power, and
all pretended a rijjht to the power they exercisetl. The
origin however of this right w.is variously assi rted, and
derived from a variety ol souroes; $>ome1im('s it was
heaven-born; sometimes an inlteritance; now a prescrip-
tion; now a contract betwixt the government and the
people.

As the American constitution acknowledges none of
these derivations, it is necessary to give each of them a
brief consideration, both to mark this point of distinction,
betwixt it and other governments, and also to be able
more safely to deli?rmine, to which party most essentially
belongs lh<- invaluable attribute of political Justice.

ist. — The plea of some men to a Divine right to go-
vern others, has antiquity on its side : it seems to have
been successfully resorted to by thf governing classes ia
the kingdoms of early Greece. Almost all their heroes
and chitftains claimed kindred with Jupiter, and were
rectilinear descendants from Hercules and Theseui.
Claims so exalted, were however, to be supported by a
Buperiurity of mental and bodily endowments, in some
degree commensurate; so that the sturdy warriours, who
led the van ol the tight, and bore the tempest of battle on
shields, which the less practised strength of their follow-
ers was inadequate to wield, might exclaim, probably
with as much truth as vanity ;

nnvTic ii, 61CUC >^> ttro^'.oivi ;

Paganism was, however, too lax a system, and the ten-
dency of the Gret'ks to fnedtim and knowledge too
strong, for divine right long t(» niainfain an ascendancy
over them : it was hiuied with lli>' Heraclidffi, and would
probably have been forgotten with ornrles and omens, had
not the early Christian church borrowed a similar notion
from the Jewish dispens ilions, and emjdoyed it as an in-
strument to perfect an alliance with civil government ;

.1!

•J86

APPENDIX.

'*' I

to aid the usurpations o( which, the Clcrc;y, in considera-
tion of value received, lent that Right Divine, which in
their own hand proved so etlicucious an instrument of
subjugation.

As Ion":, however, as the Feudal system held its ma-
turity of strength, the doctrine of Divine Right seems to
have had but a vague and partial etlV-ct on the miiitary^
Aristocracies which frequently usurped and concentrated
the whole powers of governrrlent.*

It was not until these were broken up, that we find it
assuming an important rank among political principles.

In England, it attained the zenith of its influence under
the Stuarts; but exposed and confounded by philosophy,
it grew out of vogue at the period of the Revolution; so
that it seems to have been pretty generally laid by
among the antiquated notions of past generations ; with
this exception, however, in its favour, that it should be
again brought forward whenever a period of nolitical de-
lusion should favour its resurrection; for though it bears
its native al)surdily somewhat ostentatiously on its front,
it is a natural favourite with politicians, both on ac-
count of tlie ingenious manner, in which it confounds the
intelligible with the mysterious, the cause of bad men,
with that of a benevolent Deity ; and also from its ines-
timable quality, of rendering reason superfluous.

2. A right of inheritance in some men to govern others,
may be thus expressed ; " My father governed your father ;
therefore, I have a right to govern you."

A formula which carries little more authority with it,
than if one should say, " My father munlered your fa-
ther, therefore I have a right to murder you." The sim-
ple existence of the fact confers no right. Admit the
right in the terms of the proposition, and it will stand
thus; "My father had a right to govern your father,
therefore I have a right to govern you :" that is, you
foherit your father's rights to govern my father ; — grant-
ed ; but you cannot claim as an inheritance, that which

* The honest Bishop of Carlisle's speerh against the depo-
sition of Richard |[. seems to be a fair statement of this doc-
trine, as maintained by cliiirchmHii ; while the event shew how
little it was able to iutluenoe the lay nubility.

.>■

considera-
, which in
Irument of

ikl its ma-
t seems to
iie military
ncentrated

we find it
riiiciples.
ence under
philosophy,
olulion; so
ly laid by
ions ; with
: shouhl be
tiolitical de-
gh it bears
)n its front,
loth on ac-
mfounds the
)f bad men,
om its ines-

18.

ern others,
your father ;

rity wilh it,

ed your fa-

The siin-

Admit Ihe

will Blind

your father,
ii\t is, you

ler ; — grant-
that which

st the depo-
ofthis <loc-
jnt shew how

APPENDIX.

•287

your father did not possess, namely, a right to govern me,
who was not then bora.

This imperfect analogy, however, betwixt the inheri-
tance of |)roperly, and that of power; a jierpefual inac-
curacy with regard to Ihe meaning of such words as
Crown, Government, and Kingdom, (an inaccuracy to be
expected in times and persons little accustomed to con-
sider the import of abstract terms) together with a na-
tural propensity in the human mind to regaKI that which
is, as that which should be, have patched np the idol
of Legitimacy, or Hereditary Right; an absurdity of the
same character with Divine Right, but more likely to
keep its footing in an enlightened age, because it claims
an alliance with that reason, which the former religious-
ly discards.

3. Custom has been allowed In certain cases to confer
right ; is it therefore in itself right, or does it become so
from certain associations '/

It is clearly not right in itself, because customs may
be absurd, inhuman, or impious.

That it sometimes becomes right, seems equally indis-
putable.

By what rule, therefore, must Custom be tried to dis-
cover in it the quality of right? — Why is any custom ab-
surd, or inhuman ? Because by militating against reason
or humanity, it produces evil, instead of good.

Here then we perceive a standard, by which custom
may be tried ; that of Utility.

Prescriptive rights to power must be examied there-
fore by this rule ; but if it be essential to their approval,
that they should be so examined, their authority rests on
another basis than that of jirescription, namely, that of
Utility.

Since therefore, Prescri()tion requires the sanction ■ii
Utility to become right, by itself it conveys no right.

4.' It was probably the evi<lent inadequacy of these
sanctions, which gave rise to the supposition of a Con-
tract betwixt the government and the people, which was
so far n tribute paid to the more enlightened notions of
mankinil on this subject. I proceed to consider the vali-
dity of such a contract.

A contract is an agreement betwixt two "jtarties to do.
or forbear certain things.

i ■

288

APPENDIX.

i; n

<5-

The validity of a contract depends, lat, on the right
, of the parties to enter into it ; and this depends on the
right they have previously over the subject-matter ol' the
contract; fur if they have no such right, the contract
haq no oiore validity than an agreemertt betwixt two
thieves, to divide the property of an honest man.

2d. On the ability of the parties to perform it. Without
such ability, it is equivalent to an agreement to cut up
the moon in quarters; it is an absurdity.*

How far does a Contract betwixt a government and a
nation answer to these conditions ?

If a right to power he derived from a Contract, it did
not exist previous to that Contract : but the government

A, consisting of one, or of fifty persons, contracts with
the natioii B, consisting of 5,000,000; therefore A has
as much right to govern B, as B has to govern A ; but
by the hypothesis, A contracts to obtain this right, there-
fore A did not previously possess it, and was not in a
condition to contract.

Again, the validity of a contract depends on the ability
of the contracting parties to fuifd it : If, however, A and

B, have not both a right to power, it must be lodged in
B, since J is to derive it from B; then either B has
both the right and the power, or B has the right and A
the power. In the former case, B is dependant on A,
and must necessarily want ability to fulAI the contract.
In the latter case, the ability is wanting to B, so that
a fair contract is impossible.!

Admit, however, that a contract could Ite framed, bind-
ing on the contracting, or supposed contracting parties
themselves; by what rule could these pretend to bind

* If the parties are conscious of their inability, the contract
is fraudulent, if unconscious, they are "quoad hoc,*' no better
tban idiots. . <

f However hypothetical this statement may appear, it is
strictly conformable to experience.

History offers us no example of a contract, in the fair sense
•f the word, betwixt a government aud a nation.

In civil contests, the prevailing party has imposed terras on
the other, more or less severe, more or less advantageous, in
proportion to the maguitude of the triumph, or the surviving
means of resistance.

•#

AP;<!:irDix.

289

J right
on the
ot the
ontract
xt two

\rithout
cut up

t and a

t, it aid
jirnnient
;t8 with
! A has
I A ; but
,t, there-
not in a

le ability
sr, A and
odged in
;r B has
ht and A
nt on A,
contract,
so that

ed, bind-
parties
to bind

contract
no better

ear, it is

I'air sense ,

terms on
igeoHS, in
(surviving

their posterity ? GranI thrit my ancestors could, and did
legtdly deliver themselves into hunu<tg:e to yuurs, could
they therefore di^liver me to you ; the unborn to the un-
born ? VVMiatever ri^ht they had to contriict for them-
selves, the same must I have to contract for myself.

Should the analogy of lesKtmentary tlisjiusitions and
entails he adduced to support the right of existing socie*
ties to bind Iheir descendants, it my he answered, that
post-obit dispositions of every kind are creations of so-
ciety.

In a state of nature, the rights of each individual die
with him ; uuder the social system, they are prolonged, not
surely for his own advantage (lor it wouhl t»e a little ab-
surd to siii'pose all the present inhabitants of the earth,
merely usufnictuaries for the beiietit of their deceased an-
cestors) but for the general good;

We are thus conducted to a right deduced, not from
Contract, but Utility.

The Americans, rejecting therefore these fantastick
bases of government, perceived there was one Right u|>on
which no question could be raised, namely, the Right of
each individual to bestow that which belonged to him.

Each individual, as has been ol)served, sacritices, on
entering into society, a certain portion of his freedom^
that is, of his absolute and unlimited right over his own
person and property. But these portions so sacrificed,
are not lost, nor to be made an appanage for the strongest ;
but they constitute a general stock of national power to
be used for the publick good.

The Right of distribution resides in the nation, because
national power is a property incapable of being transfer*
red to individuals; and this Right constitutes National
Sovereignty, the only legitimate origin of government.
" For the ancient sjiecies of compact," says Mr. Taylor,
p. 425. " our policy has substituted a chain of subordina-
tion suspended from its principle of the right of self-go-
vernment. Our political sovereignty is the first link, and
our government the second.'* .

it I

.'ju).'"! In r

■#*

291)

APPENDIX.

SECTION II.

OF THE SYSTEM OF ORDERS.

The Americans having, by means of Conventions,
given life to the principle of National Sovereignty, pro-
ceeded to consider what form of government would be
most in unison with it.

They had the light of ages to guide them in their se-
lection ; and the result uf it will instruct us to what pur-
pose they employed the means within their grasp; how
far they are to be considered as servile imitators ^of Euro-
pean institutions, and how far they have enlarged the
Umits of political science.

The three sim|)le forms of government had been so
generally felt, and pronounced to he evil, that there was
never a question of them in America.

The compound form, however, or system of Orders,
was so far from being included in this sentence, that it is
generally regarded in other countries, and even by a
small but respectable party in America, as the Archetype
of their own government. Mr. Adams' " Defence,"
seems to have been written for the express purpose of
proving that this either was, or ought to be, the case ;
and the Federalists are, for the most part, followers of
the same doctrine.

The question therefore demands examination.

If both the fundamental principles, and experimental
effects of this system are wholly different from those of
the American policy, it would be absurd to insist upon
their being copies one of the other.

The peculiar merit of the system of Orders, or Estates,
is admitted to consist in the equilibrium maintained among
them, each acting as a check upon the other.

The means by which this effect is produced, are also
admitted to be jealousy, and a balance of power.

The result is asserted to be the greatest political hap-
piness of which mankind are capable.

Political theories are objects of ridicule to practical
politicians, yet Plato's republick would.seem the vulgarest
matter of fact, if compared with the system of Orders,
as laid down in theory.

:("•■

ventions,
nty, pro-
vould be

their se-
whut pur-

asp;

how

of Euro-
irged the

been so
there was

if Orders,
that it is
ven by a
Archetype
Defence,"
lurpose of
the case ;
Howers of

lerimental
those of
asist upon

or Estates,
aed among

are also

itical hap-

practical

vulgarest

of Orders,

APPENDIX.

291

Three Estates or Orders, nnturally hostile, and equal in
power, are to he held, like the Ass in the Fable, or Ma-
homet's Coffin, in a stale of |»erpetual neutrality, by the
operation of the evil mordl quHliiy, jealousy !

I know of nothing with which to com|>ai'e such an in-
genious piece of moral mechanism, except the celebrated
dagger scene in The Critick. Wrre experience howev-
er in its favour, its theoretical effigy would be unimpor-
tant; but the deep and sober warning of history flatly
contradicts its pretensions.

History tells us, that the three ingredients of the com-
pound Monarchy, Aristocracy, and Democracy, alike nox-
ious when single, have exhiltited the same deleterious quali-
ties under every form of combination ; and that so far
from having ever been held in equilibrium one by ano-
ther, the moment of their approximation to a balance has
ever been the signal for civil wars, terminating in a fu-
sion of the whole compound into one mass of anarchy, or
despotism.

Aristocracy and Democracy were the prevailing forms
of Grecian polity. The repeated struggles of the two
factions, throughout Greece generally, and in each par-
ticular city, denote at least an approximation to a balance,
since neither party could completely prevail over the
other; but did they therefore preserve tranquillity and
freedom ? Did they not, on the contrary, deliver the no-
blest race of men that ever existed, into the benumbing
embrace of absolute power ?

We have little certain knowledge of the early Mo-
narchy of Rome. Its lineaments, however, exhibit some
traces of a system of Orders, consisting of a King, Senat^,
and People.

It lasted until the king felt himself strong enough to
oppress, and the people to resist ; when each party had
recourse to arms, and the contest was so far doubtful, that
the existence of the republick was jeopardized.

The government afterwards fell into the hands of the
Senate, with their relations and connexions, the Patri-
cians, who probably at this period constituted an Aristo-
cracy, according to the original sense of the word.

As the Plebeians grew sensible of their own weight,
they put themselves into competition with the Patricians,
for the purpose of opening their monopoly of dignities,

APPENDIX.

I: . ni

.1?

» ' » 1(,

and breaking <]o\vo their accumulaliun of property, by
means of the A&;rarian Law.

The fate of all those who attempted this measure,
notwithstanding their talents and [topularily, clearly
proves, that the aristooralical party, notwithstanding its
occasional concessions, still maintained an ascendancy,
which could he levelled only by civil war.

Marius was the Brat Plebeian consul ; thenceforth the
contest seems equal, the result was f«lavery to all.

We read over agaai the history of Greece in that of
the Italian republic'. s. The noldes an<l people wire so
far balanced, that neither could, entirely, put down the
other. In their towns, the body of I he citizens pre-
vailed; the exiled or tiefeated nobles took refuge in their
castles, among their vassals; devastated I he country,
united with foreign powers, and thus recovered wlieir lost
ground ; but the restoration of (l;ie equilibrium never res-
tored freedom. The result whs the estabiishm^'nt of a
tyrant, of one party or the other. His reign in some
degree set up the fyslera of Orders, which lasted until it
approached an equilibrium, by the awakening of the peo-
ple to a sense of their opiiression and strength, when the
edifice tumt>led to ruin.

The institutions of modern European governments are
all of Feudal origin, changed and moditied by time and
accident.

The Feudal system is itself a curious illustration of the
effect of Orders in government. It prevailed generally
through Europe from the dissolution of the Koman em-
pire almost to our own times; it had therefore some
principle of durability : but its dissolution has constantly
taken place at (he moment the equilibrium of Orders
seemed established.

In its infancy, as in its old age, it consisted of three
estates, a King, a Nol)ility, and the free Tenants.

During several centuries, the power of the Kings and
People was dust in the balancei against (hat of the No-
bility : alienation destroyed the power of the great vas-
lals, while that of (he Crown continued to increase, at
the expense of those who had formerly overawed it. un-
til in France under the Bourbons, in Spain under
Charles V. and his successors, in England under the
Tudon and Stuarts, it elevated itself above both the

•'■\

APPENDIX.

293

erty, by

neasure,

clearly

ding its

jmlancy,

rorth the

that of

w't re 80

lown the

iens pre-

iii I heir
country,
lieir lost
-ver res-
ent of a
in some
il until it
r the peo-
vvheii the

Ifients are
time and

on of the

reiierally
man em-
)i'e some
nstantly
f Orders

|of three
Is.

lings and
r the No-
•at vas-
J-ease, at
d it. UD-
|i under
ider the
hoth the

Nobles and People, the latter of wht>m it employed as
the iiidtrumeut of its elevation, forcing the d* {graded no-
bility into the rank of eoiirliirs and df pentlanla.

During these changes, the condition of the people
changed also; they rost- r.ij»id!y int«> im;'orlaiice, »o that
hy the time the Crown hud com;)let«<i ils iridmph t»ver
the barons, they stoutl u,iom the giouiid of equitiiiy with
it. liut (he wheel did not sloj). The Unlers thus
eipialized, did not remiiin susneiiiled in an ei|Uilil>rinm
of ev< riasling inictivily : in En;^iand. where the pro-
gress of events hid heen most rapiti, a civil war en-
sued, and it would lie ditheult to discover any thing re-
sem()ling a balance of Orders from this period to that of
the Revolution.

In France the same eflecis were |)rodi!ced ni<»re slow-
ly ; there was no mention of a lialanee of orders under
Louis XIV. or XV.; hut an ap|.roxim<lion towards it
ap|)eared under their uidvtrtunate sneet §»•>!■ ; we know the
result was any thing but the so much celel.ratt d repose
of mutual jealousy.

There is another antl more important period to he ex-
amined ; that of the present generation. If we can now
discover trunquiiliiy and happiness r<sultnii<; from a
balance of Orders, the Americans ni.>)' mistrusl tluir con-
stitution, and leave the Federalists to inlerpiet it.

Power follows wealth; where one is, tluie will the
other be also. 'J'he Feudal Aristocracy resied upon the
solid foundation of property; with the chnreii, il dixidt-d
the wealth as well ns the power of Lnrope. The power
of the Crown, which succeeded it, did not rest pre« 's« ly
U|>on the same basis. Alienation and commerce, which
had impoverished the Barons, had enriched the Commons
in the same proportion, liut the change had been gradual,
and habits of submission continued to give the Crown
advantages not naturally (telonging to it; it is tlurtfore
simide enough that it should have acqniicd an immense
accession of power in this interval ol Itaronial wtakness,
and |)opular ignorance; Itut to recover the same or even
a still greater degree after the people had loth f( It and
used their strength, was a procesH more complicated; its
consuleration involves the quustiuu of the balance, as at
present existing.

294

APPENDIX.

it ftfl

When Buonaparte assumed a place among the legiti*
mule sovereigns of Europe, he reiidily perceived, that
notwithstitniiing his immctise military force, there would
be no stability in the imiierial throne, unless he could
8-jcceed in raising such n countervailing power to that of
the people, as existed under the ancient Regime. The
attemit was mide under a partial and narrow view of
circumstances : not even Buonaparte could create an
aristocracy, which had been the work of events and
times irrevocable. Had he succeeded, the history of
France would have foretold to him, how little his family
would have profited by it. He did not succeed, but
created a Peerage of phantoms, which added neither
support nor lustre to his throne; slaves in prosperity,
summer flics in the winter of his downfall. He felt this
errour, and 'on his return from Elba sought to buiid on a
surer foundation ; but the real state of the question was
then revealed; it was this, that the true strength of a
nation resides in the body of the People, and that govern-
ments which are not founded upon the principle of Na-
tional Sovereignty, by which is im[died a right in the
nation to choose its own agents, must rely for their sup-
port upon force and fraud. The People are never willing
and knowing victims.

Little need be said of France since the restoration of
the Bourbons : it is evident that the ingredients are
wanting for compounding a new system of Estates, it
only therefore rem tins to be ^een what fraud and force
can effect, against the right of self-government. This
seems acknowledged, that they who use them, have as
yet little confidence in their wea|)ons.

I proceed to consider the English system, regarded by
Mr. Adams, as the most perfect exemplihcation of the
system of Orders, with its anti-attrition wheels of mutual
jealousy.

" The constitutional government of this island," says
Blackstone, " is so admirably tempered and compounded,
that nothing can endanger or hurt it, but destroying the
equilibrium of power between one branch of the legis-
lature and the rest," 1. p. 51. The three co-equals are
necessarily equal to one another; therefore the House
of Peers is equal in power to the Crown. Power fol-
lows wealth ; he who commands the wealth of others,

.. I - , , .1 1:

APPENDIX.

295

commands the power attncheil to that wealth. The
King of England, besides a personal revenue of 1,000,000/.,
commands as much more as maintains an army of nearly
100,000 regular troops a considerable fleet, an im-
mense body of civil agents, with abundance of pensioners
and other persons, attached either by hope or fear to its
interests. Let the popular strength be deducted from
either side, and the two parties take the field with their
own resources, would the contest be prolonged half an
hour? Would there be a contest? Shall it be said the
parties are equal, because the Crown dares not attempt
the lives or property of the Peers ; I ask, why dares it
not? because the third party would necessarily take a
part in the contest ; — but this proves any thing but an
equality betwixt the two.*

Is the House of Peers equal in power to the popular
branch of the constitution ? The power of a representa-
tive body is to be measured by that of the represented ;
a small portion only of the English pcoitle is represent-
ed; yet even this portion far exceeds, in the sunr. total
of its property, that of the aristocrat ical branch, who
bring with them the weight only of their individual es-
tates. If in this condition it be no match for the Com-
mons, much less would it be felt, if weighed against the
whole strength of the People, according to the theory of
the constitution, and according to the interpretation of it
by its admirers in America.

In France, the Nobility, at the period of the revolu-
tion, far exceeded the English peerage in all the essen-
tial qualities of an aristocracy. It had more wealth,
greater numbers, ampler privileges, and deeper preju-
dices in its favour; yet it was not more sensibly felt
than the fly on the bull's horn against the power of the
People.

It remains to consider the equilibrium of power be-
twixt the Crown and the People. Whatever the Crown

• As lonji; as the nobility were rrally formidable to the
crown, the latter watclud ovrr tlirm. In liel<l thiin with jea-
loiiAy, and soiif^ht every orrasion to diminish their power.
Does the crown any lonjjer watch over, or seek to dimiuiiih
their number and infliirnrc ? Does it rrrnte a " batch of peers"
for the «akc of having fo many atiditinnal enemirR ?

11*

1 1

.11

296

APPBIfDIX.

' I

K n

i ij

*/. ' \

possesses, it ilerives from the People ; there can there-
fore ho no niitiiral pquiliUrium betwixt fhein.

When Peter (he Hermit begin to preach the crusades,
there whs nothing like equality of power betwixt him
and the sm^illest of his congregations. When he set
out for Asia at the head of 4 or 500,000 fanaticks, there
was no equilibrium betwixt them and him : as long as
the deltiRion l:«8ted Ihey were as absolutely his instru-
ments as his beads and staff. Whoever can substitute his
interest in my mind, in the place of my own, is my mas-
ter, more absolutely than if he held me in bondage.

It is Ihis reflection which must guide as to an estimate
of the comifirative strength of the Crown and People in
England. If the latter can be induced to believe their
interest demands a standing army; and such a system of
taxition as sliall mortgage the whole property of the na-
tion into the han Is of a few individuals ; it is quite
clear (he power will no longer be in their hands, but in
those of the Crox^n which holds the sword, and in those
of (he m>rtgagee8 to whom (heir property is pledged.

The Vational Sovereignty is therefore in the hands of
two parties. The Crown, and a new Order in the state,
entitled the IMonied Interest. The history of this order
is contained in our annals from (he time of Sir Robert
Walpole, who first built it up against the landed or
Tory interest.

It is natural to inquire, how an enlightened nation
could he tem >ted into this act of political suicide. Many
catises were combined to produce it ; (he landed interest
fell into disrepute from its tory princinles ; national ani-
mosities were carefully fostered, to hurry the people into
French wars and Germin alliances ; debt was (he na-
tural conseqtience, and taxation the consequence of debt.
Taxation is naturally unpo;)ular; the dullest knave will
feel through his pocket, and the feeling quickly becomes
as general as the cause of it : it was here the principle of
fraud began to exercise ilself. It was not easy to per-
suade the payers of taxes (hat (hey did not feel (hem,
but it was attem tted and found possible to persuade
th>,n, (hat this uneasy sensation wis like a rash or a
boil, the surest symitom of vigorous heaUh ; and when
this was done, it was comparatively easy to go a step

1 there'

Tiisades,

ixt him

he set

is, there

long as
) instru-
ilute his
my mas-
e.

estimate
eople in
ve their
ystem of

the na-

is quite
, but in
in those
Iged.

hands of
he state,
his order
r Robert

nded or

nation

Many
interest
inal ani-
>ple into
the na*
of debt,
ive will
lecomes
fciple of

to per-
il them,
^eraudde
)h or a
id when

a step

APPENDIX.

297

further, and assure them it wjs not only a symptom of
good health, bul actuaily the cause ot it.

We catch a glimpse of the cords and pulleys, by which
this machinery was pluycd oti', in the lifih chapter of
Sterne's pusiiiumuus works. IJe was employed, he says,
to write a piimphlet in defence of Sir Robert Walpole,
and he thus desurilus the course he took. " 1 itffirmed
thai ihe high price ut' jirovisions so loudly complainMi of,
aroHe t'rum (he riches and atfluence daily (lowing into the
kingdom, under the auspices of uur minister. And that
the accumulaiibu of taxes, like Ihe rising of renin, was
the 8ur<-sl token of a nation's thriving; IhJ (he dearness
of niirkets, with these new imjtosis of government, neces-
sarily doutded industry; and that an increase of this natu-
ral kind of manufacture^ was adding to Ihe capital stock of
the commonweahh. I lamented Ihe fatal eflecis to be
apprehendt'd from all these beats, animosities, and revil-
ings, which 1 said, I had s[Ood reason to atlirm were but a
method of acting and ins(illing (re.-tson under cover; for
that whenever (he minister was abused, the king was at-
tacked.

" This book of mine has been the codex, or ars politica,
of all the ministerial sycophants, ever since that era ; for
I have scarcely met with a parhgra|»h in any of the stale-
hireling writers for many years past, that 1 could not trace
fairly back to my own cotle."

The separate interests created by debt and taxation,
have both in zeal and number, been powerful auxiliaries
of this system; a |iart they are the belter able to play
from their concentration, the sphere I hey occupy, and the
aid of a venal press. All these advantages would proba-
bly however, have been found insutlicient, had there ex-
isted any unconlaminaled organ of publick opinion, or
none so styling itself hi Ihe first case, the gooil sense
of Ihe nation would have pierced Ihe cloud of sophistry,
and having discovered the liuhl, would have had resolu-
tion to billow it. In the latter, the fountain of sup|dy
would either have been chocked by des|»olism and Tur-
kish darkness, or (which is more probable) would have
forcibly worked itself a new and purer channel.

The consumm ilion of (he pretended system of balances,
is to transfer to the Crown and iVlonied Interest, so much
of the People's property as will enrich the latter, auU ena-

!>■

<*,]

1l
1^

<<<*h

■m

298

APPRNDIX.

(

i.' is

i- I >

ble the rormer etfectii.illy lo |>rolect it in its flpolintioDi.
The toliowiiig cxtr^ici will show this to t>e tht- U«in>iura-
tick View of (lie system.

" The elfect ol' o|i|)OHile iiileresiB, orif fnricheil hy, and
goveriiiiiG; the other, eurreclly lollows ila Citiise. One in-
terest i«i a lyt-.iiil, the other its slave. In KrhHiii. one uf
these iiitereBis owes to the other itbove ten humlreil mil-
lions oi' |»uiin(!s sterling, which would require twelve ttiil-
lioiis ul' sliives to discharge, at eighty (louiids sterling
each. ir the delilor interest amounis tu ten millions of
souls, and would he worth forty |iouiids sterling roiintl. sold
for slaves, it pays twelve and an hall' per centum on its
Ca;iiUtion value, to the creditor interest, for the exclusive
items of deht and hank-slock. This protit for their mas-
ters, made hy those who are called freemv»n, greatly ex-
ceeds what is generally made liy those v^ho are called
slaves. But as nothing is calculated except two items,
by including the payments for useless otfices, excessive
;>alarie8, and fat sinecures, it is evident that cme interest
makes out of the other, a far greater prulit than if it had
sold this other, and placed the money in the most produc-
tive slate of usance.

" Whatever destroys an unity of interest between a
government and a nation, infallibly |)roduces oppression
and haired. Human conception is unatde lo invent a
scheme, more capable of atllicting mankimi with these
evils, than that of paper and patronage. It divides a na-
tion into two groups, rredilors and delitors; the lirst sup*
plying its want of physical strength, by allinnces with
fleets and armies, and practising the most unlflusliing cor-
ruption. A consciousness of inliieiing or sutfering inju-
ries, fills each with malignity towards the other. Thia
maliirnity lirst hegets a multitude of penalties, punish-
ments, and executions, and then vengeance. A legisla-
ture, in a nation where the system of paper and patron. ige
prevails, will be governed liy that interest, and legislate
in Its I'lvour. it is imjiossil'le to do this without legislat*
in<; to the injury of Ihe other interest, that is. the great
ra^iss of the nation. Such a legislature will create unne-
cessary (tflires, that themselves or their relations may be
endowed with them. They will lavish the revenue, lo
enrich themselves. They will borrow for tin? nation, that
they may lend. They will oAer lenders great prohtf,

I. y.Wt <
14

■^

olifltioDi.
)fin<>ura-

I hy, and
One in-
II. «Mi»- of
ilrfd mil-
flvr iriil-
sterliiig
III I ions of
iiin<l, sold
im «*n its
I'Hcliisive
heir mas-
vally ex-
re vailed
wo ilems,
excessive
e interest
if it had
U produc*

elween a

|i|ireosiou

invent a

iih these

es a iia-

lirst Blip*

;«s with

ling cor-

ng inju-

Thit

|iuniftli>

legista*

latron.ige

egislnte

legislat-

ie great

te unne>

may be

enue, to

ion, that

prolits,

APPBNDIX.

299

that (hey mny nhnre in them. As grievances grndually
exrite naiionHJ discontent, (hey will iix the yoke mur»' se-
curely, liy making it gradually heavier. And they will
fin^^lly av4i\v and maintain their corruption, by eslahlish-
in;; an irn sistiUe slanding army, not to defend the nation,
bul lo i!cfeud a system for plundering the nation." Tay-
lor, p. 38.

SECTION III.
OP THE AMERICAN SYSTEM,

Notwithstanding the evidence of history, (hat the
system of Orders has grown out of feudalism, lis ihrtiriats
have maiiitrtined it to he the produetion ol' fate, or nature,
and mankind have, through this belief, been hilherlo
•' held enchanted (to use Mr. Taylor's expression) within
the circle of the nnmeriral analysis." Nature, according
to this iloctrine, engenders Monarchy, Aristocracy, and
Democracy, all fiMinded on evil moral qualities; anil ma^
has nothing left to do, but to compound three eviU, in
the jest way he can, and extract nutriment from poi-
sons.

The American system supjioses moral liberty, or a
power of choosing tielwixl ^oud and evil : without this at-
tribute, National Sovereignly would be only an oslentn-
tioiis display of human weakness. A nation, willing its
own interest, yet unalile lo pursue it, would exhiliii the
tormenting, yet ludicrous aspect, of a political Tantalus.

Man, being free lo choose, cannot bul choose : he has
moral |iropensities, su'ijccl to universal m«»ral laws. " The
strongest moral propensity of man (says .\lr. Taylor, p.
7t).) is to do good lo himself. This begets a propensity
to ilo evil lo others, for the sake of doing giMid to himself."
This propensity, being governed liy motives, is capable
of increase or diminution. To whatever increases it, we
give the name of a vicious excitem»'nt, and vice versa.
Government, being composed of individuals, and by indi-
viduals, contains, and generates the same moral qualilies,
which will be good or evil, in proportion to the excile-
ments it contains, to good or evil propensities. Upon
this view of the question, a new raoile of analysis is ob-

I Y

>■''

^ )>

300

APPENDIX.

tained, hy means of ^hich, governmentg are defined, not
according tu uuuierical classtficutionB, but to thtir moral
qualities.

The American system proposes to diminish evil in
government, by weakening its generative iirinriple ; that
is, by affording the least possible excitement to evil moral
qualities, itoih in the government and in the peo|)le.

"■ Governments, (suys Mr. Taylor, |». 130.) whoBe ele-
m^'Ols are fraud or I'orce, will naturally excite the evil
moral qualities of human nature; and those whose ele-
ment is reason, cm only excite its tfood And if every
government miisi rely for continuance, either on force or
fraud, or on reason, it follows that every government
must be founded in good or in evil mitral principles."

He enumerates as evil moral principles of government, .
" Hereditary order, and exclusive privilege, legal religion,
.legal freedom of inquiry, accumulation of power, patron-
age or corruption, ignorance, virtual representation, ju-
dicial uncontrol, funding, and an oligarchy of banks.
The good are, national sovereignty, equality of civil
r^hls, freedom of religion, and of inquiry, division of
power, knowledge, uncorrupted representation, and actual
responsibility." Taylor, p. 406.

A bare enumeration of principles will not constitute a
good government ; it is necessary it should be moulded
of, and in them. I^et us examine how far this is the case
with the government of the United Slates

1st. — Nallonol Sovereignty has been determined to be
the only legitimate origin o( power : it is therefore, the
only moral basis of government, and consequently, the
only one capable of genet ating good moral (ju ililies.

National Sovereignty is incapable of alienation, for
its supremacy being absolute in every point nf time, it
cannot he divested of it, even by its own act ; still less
by any power derived from itself. Hence follows a strik-
ing difennce betwixt the An.erican system, and that of
Estates. < r Orders. '

Aceordiug o the letter, the Ciovernment is the natioo,
because the thee Estates are the nation; it is therefore
illimitable, for the same reason that National Sovereignty
is illimitable. Acc(»rding to the former. Government is
an agency, and therefore limited by the will and inten-
tion of the natioo.

■..' r' ■.•■' '•'■

■^■'

ned, not
ir mural

evil in

lie; that

vil m«>ral

•le.

liooe Wie-
the *-vil

liose fle-
il every
force or

(vernineut

.les."

veiitinent,
il religion,
r, palroQ-
talion. ju-
ur banks.
y of civil
ili vision of
and actual

ionstilute a
inuuUled
is the case

ined to be
refore, the
lently, the

ities.
nation, for

if time, it
still less

\v8 a slrik-

nd that of

the natioo,
s theref«)re
overeignty
BrnmenI ib
and inten-

APPENDIX.

301

History tells us. that to insure national tranquillity,
ther*' rr)t;8l sninevliere he iuiljred. in pome portiun ol the
body corpurale, a prepondt Mting pnvviM'. H^niunt which
opposiliitu is useless : the contntry to x^hicli. is a teixlen*
cy t<i equalization, or ) reteuiltd lialaiices, l.y which na-
tions have ever been convulsed, and fin;illy ruined.

'rp.iiiquilliiy ;ind h:i|ipiti('ss are not ii^'noii} moos. A
mMi is tranquil, liecitiise lie has i«o leHSon to he ns^ititled,
or he is tranquil, hec.iuse ;ti>;il<ition will procure him no
relief. Turkey, Russia, France, Spain, Enfjlaiid, juid
the United Stales, have been ;i|| lran(piil fur considi ra-
ble periods, under very ditfi^reut forms of goveriimr iit ;
but these forms all agreed in ihe part.cular, uf a prepon-
deratinig; power, though variouslj' lodged.

In Turkey and Russia, it seems resident in the Thrr)ne,
anil a military Aristocracy; in France, (lielore the Revo-
lution,) and in Spain, in the 'I'hroue more exclusively,
being shared with less independent Aristocracies; under
Bona|>arte, it was in the Army, of which he was Ihe
chief; in Englan<l, it has fallen into Ihe hands of the
Crown and Monied inlenst. In the United States, it
is in Ihe hands uf the Nation.

We may observe that in all these cases, except Ihe
last, it is lodged in Ihe hands of a minority, and con-
seqiently depends upon force and fraud. Legal religions
and standing armies are therefore commcm to them all.

In the latter case this power rests upon a natural basis^
and therefore, nee<ls no artihcial means uf defence.
Tranquillity is preserved, because there is no proportion
betwixt the slrenelh of the few interested in destroying,
and of the many interested in mainlaining it.

2d. — Equality of Civil R4ghis. All men existing in
society make an equal sacrifice of their freedom, because
ail have equally an a! solule right over their persons and
properly. The exleiit of the sacrifice being Ihe mea-
sure of the right, and the absolute right over a shilling
being equal to the absolute righl over a |)oiind. in as much
as it would be an act no less immornl lo dejirive the pos-
sessor of Ihe one than of Ihe other, inequality of proper-
ty does not siiperiiidiice inequality of rights : hut rights
beine equal, no man can be horn with a rii>hl lo com-
tp»nd another; therefore, hereditary oider aud iuheri-

' #

r i \

\ ItM

.,:*-, ..

302

APPENDIX.

V \

table privileges, are necessarily excluded from the Ameri>
can sysif m.

Men have a right over that which is their own ;
either to ^ive it or withhold it; and they have also a
right to ffceive that, which others have a rigiu to give.
The former would be negatived, oy a uegaliop of the
latter.

The portions of individual liberty, constituting na-
tional power, .ire the property of all, as much as a joint
banking or trading stock ; with this limitation in liotb
cases, that no individual c<in withdraw his portion, with-
out se|>arating from the social firm. What belongs to all,
is to be appropriated by all ; therefore each mnn has a
right to a voice in the mode of appropriation ; that is, to
the Elective Franchise.

This right seems morally susceptible but of two limi-
tations, crime and pauperism. Crime is a violation of
the terms on which men unite in society, mutual advan-
tage; it therefore dissolves social obligations.

In the case of pauperism, should the social compact be
dissolved, the man who has neither property nor ability
to gain his bread, would have no portion to reclaim; and,
should it be re-constructed, he would have no portion to
contribute; because his personal existence depends on
others.

This principle, however readily deducible from Na-
tional Sovereignty, encountered prejudices even in
America.

A comparison, however, betwixt the constitutions of
the Old and New States, will show the progress it cqn*
tinues to make.

Virginia has the oldest constitution in the United
States. '* It was framed," says Mr. Jefferson, *' when
we were new, and unexperienced in the science of go-
vernment. No wonder then, that time and trial have
discovered very cafiital defects in it."

The elective francliise is here con^ned to persons
having 100 acres of cultivated land, or property of equal
value. The consequence is, that faction prevails, and
the principle of a division of power is materially neg-
lected.

As might be expected, "The great body of the peo-
'ple do not concern themselves with politicks ; so that

own;
also a
o give,
uf ihe

ng na-
a joiot
tn Itotb
1. witb-
} lo fill,
II has a
it is, lo

wo limi-

Uion of

advan-

[ipact be
r ability
im; and,
^rtion to
ends on

•

rom N li-
ven in

itions of
it cqn*

United

" when

! ofgo-

tal have

persons
of equal
nils, and
rtlly neg-

jtbe peo-
80 tbat

APPEiNDIX.

303

their government, though nominally republican, is in fact
oligitrchiciil, ur arialocralical." Morse, p. 387.

In iVlaasachusetls and Conneuliciit. properly to the
value of 40/. or 50/. or a freehold of 21. or 3/. yearly
value, qualifies.

In Rhode Island and New Hampshire, no qualification
is necessary, except tue paymeni of laxes.

New York, and New Jersey, require a small qualifi-
cation of property.

PeiinsylvaniH, Delaware, Maryland, the Carolinas,
Georgia, Vermont, Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio, and in
dmna, require no greater qualification than either a cer-
tain period of residence, the payment of a slule tax, or
such trifie of property as may bar the right of paupers.

It is to be ottserved that a right to vote for Stale re*
presenlaiives confers a right lo vole for Ihe members of
the General government, therefore, in Ihe same degree
that equality of rights in this particular is preserved or
violated in the State governments, it is also preserved or
violated in the General government

The Elective Franchise represents the right of each
citizen to dispose qf his own portion of the pulilick pow-
er. His right to become the dt^poaitary of the portions
of others is represented by Eligibility.

This Right seems to have Ihe same natural limits with
the other : any other restriction operates as a double in-
justice; first on the giver, flince a limitation of the right
to receive, is equally a limitation on Ihe right to bes-
tow, and if carried to an extreme, destroys it altogether ;
as for instance, if none should be eligible but persons
above seven feet high.

Secondly: on the receiver; for though no man has a
right to power, and therefore cannot complain if others
do not confer it on him ; yet if the law declares him dis-
qualified to receive, on account of some contingency
over which he has no controll, he is in fact deprived
of a portion of his natural right.

The General government requires as qualifications;
age, residence and natural-born citizenship.

The first is rather a delay, than a destruction of the
right. A Representative must be twenty-five, a Senator
thirty, a President thirty-five years of age ; and though
doubtless prudence would commonly adhere lo this rule,

■* /;

■u

•^,!

\ i

o •

'.r^l

304

APPENDIX.

[// -

CI-

t «

1:';-

ij. ' -

h *■' i 'J

jMd

i ' ■■

1 ' ■. *

1 .^

there seems no adequnte reason that the national will
shoiilil he redtricted in the exercise of a right, merely
because ii mi$;ht pussidly use it imfirudently.

Every Senator, aixi Representative must he a resident
in the state for which he is chosen. The same obser-
vation seems to apply to this, as to the tVinner limita-
tion. It is fliore prouahle a citizen of a different State
should be a (it reiiresentative for any particular State,
than that he should be chosen tty it.

A representative must have been seven years a ci'
tizen, H Senator nine years, the President a natural bora
citizen. Here too it would be more natural to suppose
prudence in the use, than to limit the extent of the right.
But though these restrictions may l)e marked as devia-
tioos from the positive rule of equality, there seems no
reason to conclude, they are either oppressive, or inju-
rious in practice. It is possiltle to suppose abundance of
limitations, all of which would violate the principle, and
yet not one of them operate as a hardship.

There are however two species of qualification, re-
quired by some of the Stale Governmeuls, which seem
not equally indifferent ; these are, Property and Reli-
gion. ,!■•• V ' "■* " ' ■ *■ ■ ''■■

First of Property. Almost all the Old Slates, except
Connecticut,* require a certain property to qualify for
the otKces of Goverr.-v-,, Senator, and Representative.
The value of 1000/. in freeh«>ld estate is required by
New Hnmitshire, Massachusetts, and North Carolina, in
candidates for the first. Maryland requires 5000/. and
South Carolina 10,000/ For the office of Senat<«r an
avenge of 400/. is requisite in most of the Old Stales :
and of 150/, fur a Representaliv.e.

.•\ll persons therefore n«)t possessing property to this
amount lose their civil right to receive these uflices at
the hands of their fellow citizens. It is true that were
the law otherwise the practice would he most generally
the same. The natural influence of wealth will be always
felt, nor would electors l)e disposed to degrade them-

«
* By the constitution of Connecticut all Freemen are eligi-
ble to all offices, i am ant acquamtt'd with the regulation of
the Western States ii this pariinilar. bat I doubt if they re-
quire any otlier qualiticatiuu than tiie people's choice. »

APPENDIX.

306

•elves, and hazard the puhlick business, by choosing
such men as from thf'ir stations in life could hardly be
supposed ca|»ahle of ti.c inrormallon and leisure neces-
sary for transacting it ; but thf mare likely these reasons
are to prevail the less cause is flierr for euforcing them
by a constitutional precept, eapecially by one which im-
plies a falsehood, in sup|)osin£ a natural connexion be-
twixt properly and merit, or trusl worthiness.

The qualification of property seems therefore a devia-
tion from the principle of equality "*" in civil rights.

If, however, the quHli6cations of Property be not free
from objection, still less is that of Religion.

The constitutions of New Hampshire, Massachusetts,
Vermont, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and the Caroiiuas,
requ' profession of belief in Christianity, and several
of th^m limit the species of it to Protestantism. An
act of the Virginia Assembly requires a belief of the
Trinity in Unity.

Here we have a right, subjected to a contingency,
over which the disqualitied person has no control. If the
evidence of certain doctrines be insufficient to establish
his belief, doubting is nut a matter of option; but he
may pretend to believe, and a legislative premium is thus
oflFered to hypocrisy :— and for what purpose? To ex-
clude Intidels from offices of trust. — But if the people
perceive them to he unworthy, they will not elect them,
and if they do not perceive this, why are Electors to be
deprived of the right to confer, as well as Intidels to re-
ceive ? The judgment of Eligibility can properly exist
no where but in the breasts of the choosers. It is true
these may err, because, being human, they are fallible,
but they are liable to errour only, whereas legislatures
which destroy rights, where no olfence has been commit-
ted, are guilty of injustice, as well as errour.

* It is not intended to advocate the idea of tiestowing pow-
er on the lowest member of the rommimity ; but it seems
that the end would be equally answen-d without violating the
principle. In Kn!i;land the qualification for a member, though
not great for a w«althy <!OiMit'y, proves so inronvenient, that it
is found necessary to evade it by no very honest tiction.

- 1 1 r*

)'i;

; v«

,.v ■

c^ ^.- * r^^-iVS^'Ti

'M6

APPENDIX.

This consideration naturally leads to that of the moral
principle next enumerated by Mr. Taylor, Religious
Freedom.

3. Religious Freedom is an inherent civil right, be-
cause, tirst, men could never surrender that dominion
over their consciences, which ihey du not possess them-
selves; and secondly, because erruur in religion is no
injury done to soeiely, ami is therefore nut cognizalde by
its laws : yet, from the days »»f the Pythian oracle, to
the present lime, man has continued to employ the voice
of Heaven (o govern man, and pretended, by legal in-
terference, to regulate his communion with the Deity.
The impiety of this attempt naturally gives rise to a
suspicion that the establirhers of state religions believe
in none. "When a government," says Mr. Taylor,
"usurps the power of legislating betwixt God and man,
it proves itself to be an atheist, if it believed there
was a God, it would be conscious of the vice and folly
of m.iking tme. If it believed there was any revehtion,
j^ it would see the vice and folly of construing it by laws
which are not revelation." p. 450.

A state religion must be admitted to be a convenient
engine, for the f.v to govern the many. A salaried
Priesthood exercises over minds the same despotism that
a standing army exercises over liodies; it enforces im-
plicit 'r'jedience to the dictates of one creed, both in re-
ligion and politicks, and thrusts (he schisinatick into
outer darkness in both worlds. Were it sincere in its
belief, it could not fail to shrink from the alisiirdily of
assuming to itself the interjiretittion of the decrees of
Heaven, and of pretending to conline, within ihe span
of its own narrow intellect, the justice and mercy of
Omnipotent Goodness.

Should we examine the reasons allepied in support of
a Legal Iteligion, we slialt lind thrrn all hoiiomed, either
on fraud or iinpicly. A religion eslaliiit^iied by law. is
one which the people are citinpelled to pay for. and pro-
hiliiied from denying. "I do not li»lieve," (should a
recusant say,) "the iloelrines your church leiieiies, yet
you compel me to contribiiie lo its supiiort, and punish
me il' I deny its dogin.is : for whose |H-otil do you ihut
UgiAl.ite '/ cerliiiiily noi lor mine, at leiiHt in lliia ^^orltl."
It 18 for your eternal advnilage," (Hpiits Kslalilislied
iteligion,) " you should be thus punibliid in pocket, and

,11 •

APPENDIX.

3or

ie moral
Eleligiuus

right, be-
ilomiuioa
•88 thfin-
«>n 18 no
izaltle by
jrHcle, to
tlie voice

Ifgal in-
le Deity.
rise to a
9 believe
, THylor,
and man,
kreii there

Hnd folly
evelation,
t by laws

onvenient

i SHlaried

tism that

iurces im-

Dlh in re-

itick into

crc in its

turdily of

It'Crers of

the 8|))tn

mercy of

iipport of
led, either
ly law. is

and |>ro-
[eliould a
leJieB, yet
]d punish

you I hut
U \\orUl."
Ilrtlilished

;kLt, and

restrained from uttering your disbelief." •' Upon what
authority do you aftirm, that tormenting me here, will
profit me hereafter ?" *' Upon authority which is infallible ;
that of the word of God." " Not according to my in-
terpretation of His wonl." " But according to mine,

and mine is the on!}' right one.''

If this were sincerely uttered, it would be impiety;
but the personal advantage of the victim is now rarely
urged, except by the Holy Office ; the grounil most ge-
nerally assumed, is, the interest of society, which re-
quires, say poiiiici.-tns and priests, that there should be a
Stale Religion, and penalties for recus;<nts. The ques-
tion is here beiiged upon three points. First, Tliat there
would be no religion, unless the law established one.
Secondly, that the one established is the true : — and
Thirdly, That the interest of society requires the sacri-
fice of individual rights ; the preservation of which is the
object of society.

First. — Keligious worship is a mental act, commoidy
but not necessarijy evinced, by certain outward signs of
devotion. A mental act is no subject of legisl'ilion,
which can neither create nor uncreate it : but it can
create the oiiiw-ird signs; that is. it can create hypo-
crites, but not worsliipiters It pretends to legislate for
the Deity, Ity doing for him what he has thought un-
necessary to be done; namely, the forcing men within
the iiale of a particular church. The f.icl too, is in
strikintr conlratliction to this pretendetl necessity. There
is more religion in the United States than in England,*

* Rhode Island presents a strikina; proof of the little real
necessity there is for the cstahlishnieiit of religion by law.
••Not only does the constitution of this state reject every
species of li>gal establislunent, but," says Mr. I\Jor<.p, "a pe-
culiaritv which di<itingiii»>hes this state from every other pro-
testnnt country in the known world, is. that no contract form-
ed by the minister with his peophj I'or his salary, is v.ilid in
law. So that ministers arc dependant wholly on the inic);:rity
of tlin people I'or their support: since timir s:il!iri»'s Arc not
recoverable hy law It onjjhl in jusuce. Iiowi-vcr. to l>c ob-
served, that the clergy, in general, are liherally niaint,iin*'d ;
and none who merit it hav«> reason to complain fur want of
•upport." American Uougrapliy, p. 200.

}

, *"

i^ 808

APPENDIX.

and more in England than in Italy. The closer the
monopoly, the less abundant the commodity.

Secondly. — Why does the law com|>el me to contri-
bute to mnintain a particular church ? Because the doc-
trines of such church are true. Are there mure ciiurrhes
in this predicament, or is the nationd church the only
true one? If there be more, I may as conscientiously
adhere to one of these as to the le^al one. Why then
must I contribute to the latter, of which I am not a
member? If 1 follow truth the penalty cannot he for
the good of my soul, and it will hardly be pretended it
is for the good of my pocket.

If the national church be the only true one, I ought
indeed to maintain it ; but we are at issue upon this
point ; How shall it be decided ? By argument. — But
why then must I pay before 1 am convinced ! By au-
thority. — If the church be Protestant, this argument des-
troys its own rights, for it was estahlis'ied uiion reason
in contratMction to authority. Well then, y<»u shall pay,
because we who are of the Established Church are more
numerous than you, and find it convenient you should
contribute to ease us of our burden.

There would be candour in replying thus, and candour
of any sort is preferable to preaching piety, and prac-
tising injustice.

Thirdly. — The puhlick good in matters of religion as
well as politicks, is frequently urged as a reason fur sa-
crificing individuals. The publick good requires a slate
religion, a state religion cannot l)e supported, except all
be compelled to contribute ; ergo, &c. — The consequence
implies the schismatick minority must contribute with
the rest.

Experience enables the United States to deny the
major of this proposition; Religion both exists and thrives
^without a Legal Establishment. It cannot indeed be
moulded into an instrument of alate-crnft.

The General government adheres strictly to the prin*
ciple o( freedom. It is however violated by the tests of
some State governments ; by which Jews and conscieu-
tious infidels are excluded from office.

.1 \

APPENDIX.

809

The State ofVirginia is, I believe, the only one, which
by an act of Assembly of 1705, adds penalties to disquali-
fications''^

It has been asserted, that disqualifications are not
penalties, because offices are not matter of right, but of
grace.*

It h true, as h»s been already ol>sprved, that power or
office is not a matter of ri(i;ht, but iiidqualification destroys
bo|h the right to give and the right to receive ; the latter
of vvliioh is as truly inherent as the former. {Fid. supra,
p. 303.)

4. Freedom of Inquiry is another inherent right,
whether in matters religious or (lolilicHl.

lieg.il reelraiiit upon the freedom of religious diecussion
is founded U|ioii two absurdities; one, that the Deity
needs human aid to vindicate his name; the oiher, that
man is competenl to vindicate it. God visits the atheist
with uo peculiar punishment in this life, therefore man
thinks it necessary he should legislate in the place of
God. " But we punish for examples' sake, says Perseeu-
tion ; we burn him and his books to prevent the contagion
from sfireading."

Is the example then so seducing, or the doctrine so
convincing ? Neither; — no man can be an atheist, unless
he be an idiot or a knave. Well then, for the 8<<ke of
destroying an example which none but rogues will follow,
and crushing doctrines whii-h will pursuade none but
idiots, you set an example of cruelty and impiety which
you know all generations have followed.

But if the highest species of irreligion he not a fit
matter for persecution, still less are those differences of
opinion denominated Heresy and Infidelity. 1 have
opened. the volume of nature before your eyes, says the
Deity, and permitted you to draw your own conclusions.
You shall read in my book, says Kstablished Religion,
and believe all it contains, under pain of persecution in
this life, and damnation in the next.

■» ■'

! ^

* I imagine this act in practically a dead letter; its existence
liowover violates the principle, vid. Jeflierson's notes. Query
17. p. 234. edit. viii.

"^ Vide the 1st vol. of WarburtoB's *' Divine Legation."

-I'

♦

310

APPENDIX.

Il '. M !

!t' ''Si

■'i

A political system which thus substitutes the outcry of
pride and ignorHnce for the voice of nature is tmilt on
the principles ol' force and fraud.

There is no restraint on political discussion in Ameri-
ca. This is a triumph, both in principle and practice,
which belongs to the Democatick party.

In the year 1778, during Mr Adams' administration,
a sedition law was past, by the second section of which,
the nriting, printing, or publishing, any false, scandalous,
and malicious writing, against the Government of the
United States, either House of Congress, or the President,
" with intent to <lefame and bring either of them into con-
temi>t," WHS made pimishalile by fine and imfirisonment.

The author of the '' Olive Branch," commenting in fa-
vour of this law, observes, that it created *' a senseless
and disgraceful clamour," in which however, " were en-
gaged vast numi)ersof the best and m ist intelligent mem-
bers of the community." He then subjoins; "It would
be uncandid not to slate, that the trials under Ibis act, for
libels against the President, and as far as my recollection
serves me, against some of the other publick functionaries,
were managed with very considerable rigour; and from
the abuse of the law, tentled to give an appearance of
propriety and justice to the clamour against it The cases
of Thomas Cooper, and Matthew Lyon, E»qrs., who were
both treated with remarkable severity, excited a high de-
gree of symitatliy in the publick mind. Of the two cases,
it may be justly said ; summumjus, summa injuria^'' p. 55.
7lh ed. Mr. Carey concludes by observing, that a neg-
lect on the part of Mr. JelTerson, to procure the re-enact-
ment of this lawi *' casts an indelible stain on his ad-
ministration."

This statement, taken altogether, forms an invaluable
commentary on the justice and wisdom of libel and se-
dition laws.

It has ever been the policy of the Fed sra lists to
"strengthen the hands of GovernmtMU :" no measure can
be imagined more elfectual for this purpose, than a law
which gifts the ruling powers with infallilitlity ; but no
souuer was it enacted, than it revealed its hostility to

nf ,f

''W*

APPENDIX.

311

Icry of
uilt on

Araeri-
raclice,

ttration,

which,
ridalous,

of the
•eeulent,
rito con-
iment.
g in fa-
lenselesfl
ivere en-
nl mena-
It would
} act, for
ollection
tioiiaries,
mill from
iraiice of
rheotses
who were

hifijh »le-
\vo cases,
' p. 55.

it a neg-

re-eiiact-
his ad-

n valuable
and se-

k\\i\» to
Uiire can
Mt n law
Itut no
ktiUty to

the principles of the American system, by generating
oppression under the cloak of defending social order.'*'

If (here ever was a period when circumslances seemed
to Justify what are called euergelick measures, it was
during (he administrations of Mr. Jetlerson and his suc-
cessor.

A disastrous war began to rage, not only on the fron-
tiers, but in the very penetralia of the republick To
oppose veteran troops, (he ablest generals, and the largest
fleets in the world ; the American government had raw
recruits, ollicers who had never seen an enemy, half adozea
frigates, and a population unaccustomed to sacrifices, and
impatient of taxation.

To crown these disadvantages, a most importnnt section
of the Union, the New England States, openly set up the
standard of separation and rebellion ; a Convention sat for
the express purpose of thwarting the measures of Govern-
ment, while the press and pulpit thundered every species
of (lenunciation against whoever should assist their own
country in tbe hour of danger.f

All this was the work, not of Jacobins, and Democrats,
but of the staunch friends of relisfion and social order, who
had Iteen so zealously attached to the Government, while
it was administered by their own parly, that they suffered
not the popular breath " to visit the President's breech
too roughly.''

'*' In New Jersey, a man was found guilty and pnnislied un-
der this law, "for the simple wi^h that the wadding of a gun
discharged on a festival day, had made an inroad into, or sing-
ed the poNteriors of Mr. Adams." " Olive Branch," p. 89.

t In Boston, associations were entered into Cor the purpose
of preventing the tilling up of pLOveninunt loans; individuals
disponed tu subscribe were obliged to do il in secret, and con-
ceal their names, as if tie action had iieen dishonest. Vide
"Ulive Branch," p. ISO?. At the same time iniiuensc runs
were made by the Boston Banks, on IIiom; of the central and
southern states, while the sptnie tliiis drhiiied. was transmit-
ted to Canada, in payment I'ur Mim^^lrd >:oods, and British
government hills, wlii<'li were drawn in Quebec, and disposed
of in great numbers on adviinta<<:co<is terms to ninnied men in
the Stales. i\lr. Henry's mission is the best proof of llie re-
suit an! icipated by our Government, iVoni these proceedings in
New England.

•*A

. 1

■ i

««

312

APPENDIX.

M I

.'.' 1 1

^ .iy

: t

The course pursued, both by Mr. JeiTerson, and Mr.
Mulison, Ihroughoui (bis season of <ii(Iiniiliy, m<^rits the
gratitmle of their country, and the imiUtion of alt govern-
ments pretending to be free.

80 far were they from demanding any extraordinary
powers from Congress, that they did not even enforce to
their full extent, those with which they were by the con-
Blitulion invested.

The process of reasoning, on which they probably act-
ed, may be thus stated. The majority of the nation is
with us, because the war is national. The interests of a
minority suffer, and self-interest is clamourous when in-
jured. It carries its opposition to an extreme, iucousis-
tent with its political duty. Shall we leave it an undis-
turbed career of faction, or seek to put it down, with libel
and sedition laws ? In the first case, it w ill grow bold
from imjtunity, its proceedings will ()e more and mure
outrageous ; but every step it takes to thwart us, will be a
step in favour of the enemy, and consequently, so much
ground lost in publick opinion : but as publick opinion is
the only instrument l)y which a minority cau convert a
majority to ill vjews, impunity, by revealing its motives,
affords the surest chance of defeating its intent. In the
latter case, we quit the ground of reason, to take that of
force : we give the factious the advantage of seeming
persecuted : by repressing intemperate discussion, we con-
fess ourselves liable to he injured by it. If we seek to
shield our refiutation by a libel-law, we acknowledge,
either that our conduct wilt not bear investigation, or,
that the people are inrapnble of distinguishing betwixt
truth and fnlsehood ; l)Ut fur a popular Government to im-
pcHcli the sanity of the nation's judgment, is to overthrow
the iiillars of its own elevation.

The event triumphantly proved the correctness of this
reasoning; the Federalists awoke from the delirium of
factious intoxication, and found themselves covered with
coiitem.'t and shime. Their country had been in danger,
and they gloried m her distress : she had ex|)osed herself
to privations, from which they had extracted profit : in her
triumphs they hxd no part, except that of having mourned
over, and deitreciaied them. Since the war, Federalism
has beeq scarcely heard of.

APPENDIX.

313

id Mr.

rits the
govtra-

rtlinary
force to
he con-

hly act-
ation is
E>sts ol' a
vhen in-
iucousis-
in undis-
vith libel
row bold
iiid mure
will be a
, so much
jpinioD is
convert a
1 motives,
t. In the
ke thai of
' seeming
I, we coo-
e seek to
nowledge,
at ion, or,
betwixt
nt to im- ,
iverthrow

^88 or this
;lirium of
Itred with
^n danger,
Bd herself
it : in her
mourned
[ederalism

I proceed (o consider (he principle of iibel-laws, as set
up RgHiust freedom of political discussion.

The lantriiaj^e of despotism is honest and consistent on
this point. In Turkey she says, You, the people, have no
busin^'ss with government, hut to obey it ; with religion,
but to l)elleve if. The Koran suffices both for your faith,
and moral conduct ; you h»ve therefore no business with
discussion, except it be to discuss the arching of a Circas-
siit'i's eye brows. — Sleep, and smoke In quiet; we answer
for your souls and bodies.

Libel-law in a free gorernment, says; Being freemen
you have a right to discuss the conduct of your govern-
ment, whether it be right or wrong; provided always, you
conclude that it is right, otherwise you lend to hriug it
into contempt, and therefore shall be punished. — But it is
only intemperate discussion we object to, say politicians :
so far from blaming, we are friends to a moderate op|)osi-
tion. — Yes, provided it injure you. neither in protit, power,
nor re|)Utalion. You would be tickletl, not wounded A
well regulated oppositifui preserves a shew of freedom.
Two factions are struggling for place ; the Outs blame all
the measures of the Ins, but they would not therefore di-
minish the perquisites of the places they hope one day to
fill.

Discussion may attack Persons, or Principles.
The American constitution, by contining treason to
overt acts, leaves the utterance of opinions free, however
they may tend to bring the constitution into contempt. —
Why ? Because discussion being free, it supposes truth
will prevail.

If therefore the constitution could be shewn to be bad,
it seems more rational to amend, or change it, than to
punish those who reveal its defects. Libel law supposes
either that falsehood is in fair fight, more potent than
truth, or that political systems may [luasess the tirst attri-
bute of the Deity, perfection.

They set up a political idol, and say; " Behold your
God; bow down to it : you may tind fault with the trap-
pings of its throne, or the pavement beneath its feet; or
even, provided it be done tenderly, with the ministers of
its altar, but beware of proclaiming that it is Itself the
work of hands, wood and stone." * .

» >

■«(■

314

APPENDIX.

■%

!•'■ :i

- A Constitution which permits the free examination of
itself, falls into an absurdity, when it passes a I'lw (u shield
its agents from a similar Creedum. It is still nure absurd
to erect a man into a God, than a constitution; it is hIso
more dangerous, for the living idut will not bo long satis-
fied with empty prostrations ; it must be fed with lives
and property.

Is therefore every species of calumny to be poured out
against a government, without restraint or punishment ?
Calumnies against the theory of a government, injure no
one; nor the government itself, except it be founded on
evil moral principles. The evidence of facts would bear
it out, even were there not more persons interested in its
defence thin in its attack. The annals of the world offer
not a single instance of a good government overthrown,
or brought into contempt by discussion. Mankind are not
too prone to change habits, even of the worst descrip*
tion ; they have gone on for ages and centuries enduring
tyranny and oppression, for no belter reason than be-
cause their fathers endured them before. Libel-laws are,
indeed, essential to the security of governments founded
on force and fraud, as masks and daggers protect thieves
and cut throats.

The persons administering a government, cannot re-
quire greater immunities for themselves than the Constitu-
tion claims for itself. " Reverence for a magistrate, (says
Mr. Taylor,) is frequently contempt for a coustitulion."
He thinks himself unjustly assailed ; shall he therefore
have a law for his protection, which he may convert in-
to an instrument of oppression ? If the situation he fills will
neither enable him to defy calumny, nor remunerate him
for its injustice, he is free to return to the walks of pri-
vate life, and claim, as an individual, that legal protec-
tion for his character, which the constitution affords him,
but let not ministers be gratified with the sacrifice of
inherent rights to protect their own crimes and follies.
"Caligula-8 appointment of his horse to the consulship,
is both an illustration and a mockery of the ideas of na-
tional sovereignty without the freedom of utterance ; and
a nation, the members of which can only speak and
write as Government pleases, is exactly this consular
sovereign." Taylor, p. 472.

APPENDIX.

31 .'i

ation of
iu shield
t absurd
it is hIso
Dg; satis-
itli lives

tured out
stiment ?
injure no
nded on
juld bear
ted in its
orld offer
jrt brown,
\ are not
. desc rip-
enduring
(ban be-
■laws are,
I founded
it thieves

annot re-
Constilu-
ate, (says
ititution."
therefore
>nvert in-

aits will
erate him
(B of pri-

protec-
brds him,
critice of
follies,
nsulship,
sas of na>
nee ; and
eak and

consular

5.— Division of Power is the vital spirit of the Ameri-
can system : convert it into accumulation, and all other ^
securities perish ; preserve this, and they can never be
altogether extinguished. .

Man is feeble when conlined to his own individual

means ; Power enables him to use the strength of others ;

.it is therefore the i.-adiest instrument for gratifying his

own desires at the expense of others, and ranks foremost

in the class of vicious excitements.

Is this vicious attritiute of power capable of being
neutralized ; or must a nation, in framing its government
necessarily submit its neck to a yoke ? Alonarchy, aristo-
cracy, democracy, and the system of orders are all so
many memorials of the efforts mankind have made to free
themselves from the dilemma of an!\rchy and desttulisra.

They have all lieen uiifoitiinate, for Ihey have all work-
ed hy different roads to the same end, namely, the substi-
tution of the interests of a minority for those of the majo-
rity ; bin they have all this comn^on quality, concentra-
tion of power in the hands of a few.

The American system, ileeming the nation the fountain
of power, considers it altsnrd to collect it a second time
into reservoirs, which are not the nation; and therefore
distributes it in streams sufficient only to give motion to
the several engines of government.

The principle of Distribution ni;iy lie thus stated : —
Power is a virions excitement, liecause it impels its posseS'
8or to gratify himsf^lf iii the expense of others ; the greater
the powej", the greatt:r the possible gratihcation : concen-
tration therefore affords the greatest possible excitement.
But as the increase of power increases its vicions cpialities,
to will its diminution diminish them : diminish it theivfore
to such a degree that it is unable to extract any selfish
gratihcations at the expense of others, and it becomes di-
vested of its evil moral ipiality, and capable of being em-
ployed to the advantage of the people. Hut as govern-
ment represents all the portions of individual liberty sa-
crificed for the good of society, its power must, in the ag-
gregate, suffice to oppress individuals, unless some expe-
dient he hit upon, to counteract this effect. This expe- a
dient is Division. The American people, by sacrificing a^^
much less portion of its freedom than other nations, or
rather by retaining in its own hands, powers, which other

i i

- *■

816

APPENDIX.

nations have commuted (o their Governments, has sought
in diminution a method of counteracting the evil effects of
power : it employs Division for the same purpose by in-
vesting the General, and State governments respectively
with a portion of (tower, which portion is ag.iin subdivid-
ed in each among several agencies, entitled Executive,
Legislative, and Judicial branches.

The test of the success of these expedients, must be
looked for in the ex|ierience the nation possesses of the
ability of one, or all of them, to extract individual grati-
fication at the publick expense.

The portion ol power allotted to the General govern-
ment naturally claims the first place in this examination.

In 1798 Virginia, and Kentucky framed resolutions
expressive of an idea (hat the General Government had
evinced a spirit of encroHchment, 'Mending to consolidate
the States into one sovereignty."* The political prin-
ciples of the Federalists are acknowledged to have this
tendency. It is from their disposition to 8tren<>;lhen the
General Government, under the idea of strengthening lI*o
union, that they first obtained, or assumed the name of
Federalist.

We accordingly find, in the executive power of tiie
General Government, a degree of accumulation not quite
consistent with the principle of division, observed by the
State Governments. " The goveruours of nine States^
comprising a majority of the people, are annually chosen,
and are ineligible after certain terms ; those of the other
states are chosen for two and three years cne excepted,
and a multitude of other imfiortant differences exist, be-
tween the modification of executive power, under the
General and State constitutions." Taylor, p. 169. Now
if the Governors of thirteen States have for thirty years,
found their limited powers sufficient for executive purpo-
ses, it would follow, that those of the General Executive,
must be more than sufficient.

The power of the President has been, seemingly with
justice, compared with that of the King of England ; the
difference consists less in the power each of them pos>
Besses, than in that which the (leople of either nation re-

* These Resolutions were framed by Mr. Madison and Mr,
Je^erson. ,

APPENDIX.

3ir

18 sought
effeclB of
e by in-
lectively
siihdivid-
Kecutive,

must be
>s of the
ual grati-

govera-
liiiation.
•solutions
nent had
tnsolidate
ical prin-
iiave this
;then the
ening tbo

name of

er or the
not quite
edby the
e States,
chosen,
16 other
excepted,
xist, be-
nder the
Now
y years,
purpo-
xecutive,

gly with
nd ; the
lem pos-
ation re'

and Mf,

tains : Mr. Tayfor thus draws the comparison : " This
Kins cannot create offices, inflict taxes, piiss laws, or raise
armies; neither can the President. The King can ap-
point officers, disburse taxes, recommend laws, and com-
mand armies; so can the President. This King can
make treaties under checic of two legislative branches ;
the President can make treaties under the check of one.
This King can appoint the members of the legislature to
lucrative offices ; so can the President ; and in both cases
an appointment vacates the seat. This King appoints the
judges and the officers who appoint the juries; su does the
President." p. 172.

It would seem, that the framers of the General Govern-
ment had the English constitution in their contemplation,
Vihen they invested the President with this accumulation
of (tower; less probably because they wished to assimilate
the two, than because the theories which had been built
upon the system of orders, had concurred m the idea, that
particular powers and patronage were espentially inherent
in the executive; a notion, which if closely examint-d,
has, perhaps, little foundation; the result however is. that
the American government is both more like the British
than it seems, and also seems more like than it is, accord-
ing to the point of view of the observer.

The little external parade, the a! sence of a court, no-
bility, army, and established church; \vith the elective
nature of the presidency, seem to form distiiu-tinns suffi-
cient to destroy all comparison betwixt them. Tlie com-
parative estimate of executive powers, above (pioted,
seems, on the other hand, to give them a ra<lical, though
unostentatious approximation ;* and wouhl in fact do so,
but for two principles of the system, which it remains to
consider. — Uncorrrupled Representation, and actual Res-
ponsibility.

6. Uncorrupted Representation. — Democracy is a form
of government, capable of exciting evil moral qualities.
It is evident, that a nation has no interest in oppre8<*ing in-
dividuals, but it is possible, imder particular circumstan-
ces, to persuade it that it has such an interest ; and these cir-

* It was probably on this view, tliat Mr. Handolph «poke,
when he said in Congress. ''Torture the rons^titni'on as yon
will, the President will appoint his siicressor, and sisuuld lie
over have a son of the proper age, that son will succeed him,'*

/a.

31S

APPENDIX.

pi; Ml

i i-i

cumstances necessarily arise more frequently in ileniocra-
ciei»; first, hecause the people being its own ageni, and
legislating coik%;tively, its errours of judgment lead on the
instant to erroneous, or vicious actions : secondly, because
in all assemblies, some individuals must lead, and if the
leaders be vicious, they will substitute their own interests
for those of the community. Democracies are therefore
liable to errour and violence.

It is easy for a nation to avoid these inconveniences,
by committing its power to agents, but this is remuiyiug
an evil by a greater, since agents, with the same means,
have far greitler inducements to oppress individuals.
Representation was invented to avoid both, by diminish-
ing the lialtility to errour, inherent in democracies, and
also the firopensity to oppression, common to other forms,
constructed with undelegated power.

If a nation exercises sovereignty, neither corporately
nor by delegates, it abandons the right of self-government,
and accepts tlie evils of despotism.

What is representation ? The exercise of a vicariojjs
funclioti. How can one man stand in the ploce of. or
represt'iit another? Clearly not by bis own act and au*
thority, for such an attempt in any transaction of life,
would be regarded either as an indication of lunacy, or as
fraudulent, and disiionesf. The act of the person repre-
sented it» therefore essential to the constituting a represen-
tative ; besides, one man can only be said to represent an*
other, when he expresses such sentiments, or performs
such acts, as the person represented would, most probably,
himself perform, were he pre^snt in person; in this m in-
ner, one man may reitresent many,* providied the man}' are
essentially of one mind, as to the matters to be performed
by the representative. But what certainty can be obtaia-
ed, thai one man represents the will and opinions of many,
unless the mmy, by an act ofdelegation, so declare ? Elec-
tion, therefore, is essential to representation. But it so, what
meaning is to be attached to representation, not founded
on election ? or, with what reason can such refiresenta-
tion be styled virtual or essential, when it is built on the
exclusion of that which constitutes its essence ? Yet,
Mr. Adams cbnsiders an hereditary monarch, as repre-
senting the whole nation, in its executive capacity !

* The proportion of representatives fixed by the rnnstitntion
tor the general government, is oue to every 30,000 inhabitants.

.» . ■;-f^'-'-y'*^-^-tf--^w''-

■ I

APPENDIX.

319

The whole American system is representative. The
Senate represents the Slates; each State sends an equal
number of Senators (two) that equality mny he preserved
betwixt the atit)!ig and the weak, the small and great
States.

The Senate represents the federal ^vill, as the House
of Representativi--s, the popular will.

The Presideii representa both. " He is," says Mr.
Taylor, " the compound creature of the equality of states,
and of the equality of man, t)oth of which are infused in-
to the mode of his election, for the purpose of preserving
both." p. 505.*

If there were any portion of power in the American
system, not derivetl from the nation, that portion would
be at variance with the principle of National Sovereign-
ty, and built upon those of force and fraud.

When power has been disfrihuted and conferred by
election, is all done that is necessary to secure freedom,
and prevent the ai.uses of Constitutional -Agents? Elec-
tion may become a most eflicacious instrument of tyran-
ny, by conferring powers unlimited, or ill-detined. Bona-
parte was an Elective Despot.

But when the powers of the functionary have been lim-
ited by constitutional precept, does any further danger
remain ? Power not representative, is not subjected to
the national will, and therefore may be used against it ;
but we have considered it essential to representation, that
the representative sliould disclose sentiments conformable
to those of the represented: What security have electors
for this ? Human opinions change : the mind of man is
not to-morrow what is to day ; consequently, the repre-
sentative of to-day may be no representative to-morrow.
Theoretically, there is no remedy for this evil, because
it results from the natural qualities of the human mind;
but its practical evils may be averted, by diminishing the
period of representation in such a degree, that frequent
recurrence must be made to the national will ; so that
changes of opinion betwixt the electors and elected, may

* The mode of Presidential Elections, has been found so ob-
jectionable, that a bill was brought into Congress, in December
1816, to amend the Constitution in this particular, by leaving
the States less discretionary power, and augmeutiog the popu-
lar influence.

\ -I

■ \

; [ii

i;^ 'f

320

APPENDIX.

il !

have no lime to operate to the publirk disadvantage.
Tin? recurrence constitutes the |irinci|)le of Rotation, ap-
plied to all offices of the Ainwrican Government.

The House of RepresentaJives is chosen every second
year. The senators are chosen for six years; but they
were divided, on their first election, into three classes,
otiH cl^iss to vacate itieir seats every second year; so that
one third ofihe whole body is biennially renewed.

The president holds his oftice for four years.

The design of the American Government bein^ to de-
stroy the operation of evil moral principles, the duration
as well as the extent »»f representative power, becomes
a fpipsfioii reducilde to the criterion of experience, pro-
nouuf'iii!; how frequently it m ist be renovated, to prevent
its awakenini; vicious propensities. Absolute power, con-
veyed l)y election, for however short a periojj, destroys
N'ltional Sovereijfnly ; because, to the greatest possible
excitement to destroy rotation, it unites the a;reafest pos
sil»l»' mi'ans \ less dejiree of power, conveyeil for an
unlimited i»erio<l, produces nearly the same effect, because
power attracts power; and having no constitutional limit
to its duration, it will go on increasing into despotism,
unl^•ss checkt-tl by Kevolntion.

The evil qtialities of Power, increasin'jj therefore in a
ratio compounded of its intensity and duration, provided
these be reduced to a minimum, the evil qualities of Pow-
er will he diminished in 'ike proportion. 'JMte minimum
of Political Power, is Ihe quantity sufficing for the pur-
poses of its cfention otdy : whatever is more than this,
becomes an instrument of individual profit in the hands
of i's possessor. The m'<nim!im of Duration, is that
which merely suffices for pnl»lick liusiness. For example,
if a President, without tiie power of appointing judges,
sh iidd be found eijiially cipable of tilling Ihe executive
station, with one po»<sessing this power, Ihe former is more
in 'Ills in with the princi;des «)f the American Constitu-
tion th^n the litter. If a House of Representatives,
elected annn.iMy, be found as efficacious for the pur-
poses of jMil»iick business as one elected biennially, Ihe
f<»rmer is, for the same reason, to he preferred to the lat-
ter,

The question of representation involves that of politi-
cal c irruiHiou, liecaiise it is i<i vitiating the former, that
the evil elTects of the latter are most cunspicuoua.

APPENDIX.

vantage,
lion, ap-

j second
but they
rlHRses,
; so ttiat
J.

\v to (le-
(liiration
becomes
lice, pro-
) prevent
wer, con-
destroys
possible
Htest pos
pil for an
[, because
>nt)l limit
lespotism,

fore in a
provided
of Pow-
miiiimum
the pur-
ban this,
he hands
, is that
example,
S judffes,
xecutive
r is more
Const! tu-
ntatives,
the pur-
ally, the
the lat-

|or poUtl-
ler, that

Montesquieu has made Virtue the vital principle of
RepublicaniBm ; and consequences the most injurious
to Freedom, have been deduced from this authoritative
axiom.

The essence of Republicanism is virtue; but mankind
are vicious; therefore a HepuldicU is an impossifde form
of Government ; and the demonstration is usually closed
with a pitying glance of conscious superiority, at such as
are romantick enough to dream of Virtue, Republicanism,
and the Perfectibilily of the human species.

The sophism lies in the double meaning of an abstract
terra.

If by Political Virtue, l)e understood a sacritice of
self-interest, an beroick abstraction of personal consi-
derations, such a quality neither is, nor could be a ge-
neral principle of human action. It may burn in the
bosoms of a few consecrated individuals, shining here
and there, athwart the night of ages, but a system of Go-
vernment which should require its habitual and uniform
agency, could exist no where but on paper. If, on
the contrary, by Virtue, we understand a principle of
utility, evincing itself by laws, 0|)erHting for the general
good, then is Virtue both the essential principle of Re|)ub-
licanism, and also a quality sufficiently attainable by bu-
mau institutions. A republick cannot exist without vir-
tuous laws, that is, without laws generally useful ; but is
any degree of self devotion requisite to the making of
useful laws, or can none but coniidetely virtuous men
make them / On the contrary, cannot robbers frame laws
generally useful to their own society ? A law generally
useful, is one conformable to each man's individual in-
terest. And how can men be induced to frame such laws ?
By a knowledge of this interest, Gi neral utility there-
fore, resolvable into enli<;htened self-interest, is the vital
principle of Republicanidni.

When a nation coratnits its legislative powers to indi-
viduals, chosen by itself, what security b'ls it that these
will legislate for the general, and not for their private ad-
vantage ? By lecturing Ihenion virtue, and self devotion ?
Clearly not — but liy withdrawing from I hem all tempta-
tion to ofTend. If they be entrusted with the power of
pocketing the publick money, they will pocket it ; or if
the Executive branch be enabled to confer a portion of

y !

{ I

'•s,

li'2'1

APPENDIX.

it on them, they will accept it, mid in return legislate,
bolti to i»cr»Mse liie caiiubiiiiy of llie Executive to con-
fer, and of llieinaolves to receive: tlwy will concur in
deltl, iHxt's, .iiid sliuidiiig armies, provitled they are to he
rewarded with lot IIS, lucrative [ilaces, and cominii^sioiis ;
and if a seat in ihi^ legislature he the |)urt;d to these »c-
quisiti'ins, they will procure seals l>y 'uinery uiiil corrup-
tion, Hfid doultle the puhlick iuiposilioiis to repay them-
selves the price thus a(lvauc«-d. liut ".\iil the electors
submit to he bribed and corrupted, and ilus become the
instruments <tf their own op|(n ssioii / Yes — for if «)ne
brunch of lln' constitution posst-i<8 the inttuis of corrup-
tion, the ollwr will nut fail to b«c<ii)i<- its iiii«trumenl. The
elector thenfftre reisons thus; the Pii^i.lnit can by law
bestow a lucralivf oHice on my i< jH. scnlalivf, and my
representative c;in l)y law accej.l it; in- will therefore,
cither from possession or expectalioii, leli!;i^lale in the
President's favour: if 1 refuse the bri!)c he o.i« rs iti»', the
issue will be the same; and though t lun iware ndilition-
al taxation must enable him to repay himself the sums
thus expended, yet my share of the tax will be less
than my share of the bribe. — If the sysltin adiniis of
corruption the formula^ are mere matters of nuioushine.
The statement of the evil unfolds the remedy. The
evil lies in the President's ability to bestow, and that of
the representative to receive; the latter is a consequence
of the former. Destroy the former, and you leave, in
the mind of the representative, no interest superiour to
that which he has in common with his constituents ; the
interest all the mem*iers of a stale have, in the making
of (rood laws ; he will con8e(|Uentiy legislate in favour of
this interest.

It is admitted however, [\\\t a certain decree of pa-
tronage must be attached to the executive branch of the
coiHtilution. The '•■■f'stion cotise(piently becomes one
of plus and minus, a matter of calculation to discover
the quantity with which it may be safely entrusleil, so
that it shall neither have the means of britiinu; the legis-
lature, nor the isgislature in cunsequeuce hud it worth
while to bribe the people.*

* If the means be limited, the miniher of prizes in the Po-
litical liOttery In diminished. If a proportionate increuxe of
Reprrseiitutives iitlitiw nil extension ot the ri^clit of Kiiflraico,
and Electioni be made uiure frequent, the chances of gaining

APPENDIX.

323

the Po-

|reuF>(i of

If gaining

It may be doubted if the American system has ab-
8ohitely reaoheil llie minimum in this r<S|it'cl; certain
however it is tliat tlie (leople retain such a eoulrol over
their representatives, as either wliolly to |tre\eiit their le-
gii^laitiig in iheir own favour, or to compel them to a
8j)eedy reeiiniation, should they attempt it.*

The soUition uf the Cjueslion of [-.olitical corruption
intidenlaliy resolves that of Universal SuflVage ; a right,
as lias l)et n seen, restricted Ity several of the State Con-
stitutions, although., except iu Virginia, the (jualificatious
re(]!iiird are pruhaldy such as to exchide few but p;.u-
pers. The qu< siion is therefore rather of abstract right,
than of practice.

Wlien I he riiilil of sullrage is limited, that is, when
pel^()us eiujliiliutiiig to the expenses, are tiebarred from
ai.y 8l;;ire in the control of the exj endilure of the Slate,
th<- rea.'*oii of this liuHlation (if the iiii\itt\ jus J'tirUoris be
not at>Kun)«d) must ite sought in some pretext of moral
gu!ll. or of I'uhlicli utility. It is object* d, that poor men,
that ie, mtii who have less than the ma,i(>rity of their
fel'ou eilizi'iis. will l)e lit siiltjecls for bril»ery : — granted,
but upon what gioiinds are they then fore to be [tunished ?
If a dp.u-ivation ol an inherent right is to lie attached to
a liitliiliiy to l«e corriijitcd, why siiuuld not the s;ime de-
privation lie attai'iud to the li.'.tiiliiy to corrupt, and
very rich men le t(|Uall> punisheii with very |)oor men?
The nior.il ^iiilt woiii-l l»e at least e(jual should the crime
be e'uninillt'tl, ami that they should be presumptively
piiiiis^lied, ia no hard<.-r in one case than the other. If
not mor:d •:;uilt. but piil)lieU utility lie the obj<el, it seems
supertbitius to ol ject In Mtpular corruption, under a sys-
tem which enlorces leginlative corruption. Where the
carcass I3, the Dies will be collected, if one branch (tf a
government possess the means to corruid, the other
brancliea will present the facility to be corrupted, what-
ever may be the mode of their election. IJnder such

a prixu are propni-tiruiably rediiceil, until it becomes a kuavc'8
interest to be lionest, or forbear his political ealliiiji;.

* An instanre occurred lately. Congress passed a bill,
cominiitinic the daily allovvaiiee to Meinliers for an animal
8ti|>eiid. The People resented siirli un appi-o|H'iuti))ii of the
piiiilick money: turned oal forty of the oHeiid ng Meni'.irs at
the next Kleclion, and compelled the rest to sing a I'aliiio-
dia.

\ <

324

APPENDIX.

circL-nnstances, Ihe limitation of the elective franchise,
and laws against brihtry and corru()tion, are ei|iiival»int
to a law pruhihitiua: maggots from breeding in a dead
dog: bury the earcaHS, and there will Ji>e no broods de-
riving life from iid |iulridity: to drop the metaphor, re-
move the means of corrupt ion, and there will, he no bribe-
ry for the purpose of liemg corrupted. The persons
most ready to bribe are [irecisely those, who have the
least inclination to expend their money without a eutfi-
cient return : the people are not corrupted by those who
are to reap no fruits from their corruption, and when no
one has interest in bribing his suffrage, the poor man's
vote is as liable to be well bestowed as the rich man's.
The true state of this question will be further evident,
from considering the futility of all lemedies lor corrup-
tion, VNbichdo nut reach the l^art of the disease. In
Virginia, greiit powers ol patronage are concentrated in
the Legislature, much ccTni|)tinn. if, consejjtiently, to be
found in the fin\nnrnent, anti yet ibc Elective Fran-
chise is more limitfd lh;in in any State of the Union.

To destroy corru|ition by limiting the Elective Fran-
chise, proceeds upon the logical errour of non causam
pro crtM.sd; that bribery is practised, because there are
people capable of being bribed, not because there are
people who find it worth while to liribe them.

Another false position is assumed, namely, that none
but poor men are capable of being bribed; and this too,
while the very act of limitation implies, that rich men
will britie, and consequently, receive bribes. The re-
presentative who buys the elector's vote, sells his own to
the President, or to whatever branch of the constitution
possesses the means of buying it : it is true, that the vote
of a man of property may cost more than that of u poor
man, but this is made up to the candidate in the dimin-
ished number of his purchases ; so far, however, is this
diminution from diminishing the inducement to sell, that
it evidently increases the temptation, by raising the value
of the commodity; and so on, the greater the diminution
becomes.

7. Actual Responsibity. — Responsibility pervades eve-
ry portion of the American System: each branch of
the Government is responsible; therefore, the whole ii
respoubible.'*'

* Puni><hmpnt In cases of impeachment, extendu only to
removal froui office and disqualitication : the reason seems to

APPENDIX.

32.0

fi eve-
inch or
hole U

Responsibility implies a power superiour to that of re-
sponsible agents : it would lie absurd to suppose h greater
power resjjoiisilde to a less, or an equal to an equal. Ac-
curding to the American system, this superiour power is
in the nation, which has reserved to itself the means, both
of manifesting and of enlorcing its will. The Hous^ of
Ke|)resenlatives is the organ it employs for the first of
these purposes; the Militia for the second : these, toge-
ther, constitute the moral and physical expressions of
National Sovereignty. Responsibility, therefore, hinges
upon nncorrupted representation, and division of |)ower.
The separation of these two |)i'inciples discloses on either
side anarchy and despotism. Should the moral organ be-
come vitiated; should the House of Representatives cease
to represent the people, and consequently to express the
national will, there remains only the employment of
physical force, to avoid the evils of despotism ; but physi-
cal force, however adequate to punish and destroy, is too
commoidy found an inadequate instrument to amend and
re-establish.

The other altei'nalive is still more fatal. Should the
nation give the sword from its own grasp, while its organ
of rejiresentation is' still uncontaminated, the latter, to
use Mr. Taylor's expression, " is John the Hfijitist preach-
ing to a wilderness :" nor will the barren itoon of |»ro-
claiming its own iml)ecility be long conceded to it ; that
branch of the Government, which had foimd rnejuis to
disarm a nation, will n()J long fail, either forcibly to silence
its representatives, or, still more fatally to convert them
into panders of its wilt, and shiirers in its corruption.

Upon a review of the History of (tovernnients, both
ancient and modern, we (ind, that all of them have been
proved adequate to ensure considerable periods of publick
tranquillity, provided they possessed i^nch a concentration
of power, as to render opposition fruitless. Hut history
also teaches that this same concentration has no less in-
variably destroyed publick happiness, by destroying re-
sponsibility, anil committing the whole management of

be that respnnKiliility attaches itself to the abuse of leu;al
powers only, not to hrtiaehes of positive law which are cou;-
nixable by the ordinary courts of justice : but actions uliich
are not illegal, cannot justly be punished its crimes; hut they
may evince viriousness of intention, or weakness of intelli'ct,
and in either case, the nation justly assumes tlie power of wilh-
irawing the authority it had bestowed for it!) own advantage.

i I

( J

326

APPEINUIX.

!i '

(he political machiae to force and fraud. The object of
the American systein is to secure both : |iubiick happi-
ness, by the respoiiiiihiiity of political agents; and tran-
quillity, by a concent ration of power. How then are the
evils resulting; from the taller, under other systems, avoid-
ed in this ? By changing the depositaries. — Wiien a gov-
ernment is stronijer than the nation, national sovereignty
is a dream, and constitutional rights waste paper, on which
governments iiiscribe taxen, standing armies, patronage,
and corruption. The American people are stronger than
the sroverumt'nt, in the proportion of fifty to one, or of
500,0)0 Alililia to 10.000 regujar troops, and if we take
into Cilcul.itioii the immense territory over which the
reguhii-s are scattered, the proportion may well be set at
500 (o one.

The American Government has been accused of weak-
ness iind inttficicncy. If its strength he measured against
that uf the people, the above statement will prove tlie
accusation ,j-is(. If it !ie consitlered in union with the
pnbliek will, it is pro'.tably tiie strongest c:i earth ; since
it is l)ar,ke(l by the whole moral and physical power of
the natia i; in projf of wl)icli m ly be allc.'';t^tl its a:>iiiiy to
steer Ibroiigli the perioil of the late war, without requiring
the ailililional defence of a single act of Congress; and
the simpliciiy with which it works, in ordinary times,
when a consl.iMt 's still'is sufficient to enforce the execu-
tion of the law (Vom .Maine to the Missouri. It is proba-
ble the weakest of all Governments are precisely those
which call themselves vigorous- anil energetiek ; and
should that of America be ever heard to call for laws to
put down the f.ictioiis, and to declare that (he anarchical
spirit of the times required the ajiplicalion of measures
unusually vigorous, and contrary to the practice of her
belter days, however the forms of her conslitnlion may
be retained, its principles will have been rooted out, and
fraud and force snlisiilutetl in their place, to work the
gratification of the few, at the expense of the many.

H. — Knowlediie — Knowleilge is power. Men submit
as implicitly to those who persuade, as to those who com-
mand them : with this disiiiniion in favour of the former,
that good will accompanies persuasion, and shrinks from
authority. All Governments are sensible of this truth,
and it is for this reason, that such of them as are establish-
ed upon a denial of national sovereignty, and consequent-

object of
ck hapi)!-
Miid traii-
;n are the
ns, avoid-
en a gov-
tvereignty

on which
patronage,
•nger than
ane, or of
r we lake
which the

be set at

d of vveak-
red against
prove tl>e
1 witli I lie
irlh ; since
I jiowt-r of
!i ai.iliiy to
It re(|uiriiig
igrcss; and
ary times,
the execu- '

13 proba-
sely those
ick ; and
)r laws to
anarcliical
' ineasurt'B
Wa' of her
uti(tn may
I out, and
work the
my.

ri submit

who coiti-

he former,

rinks from

his truth,

estHbiish-

nsequent-

APPENDIX.

327

ly upon evil moral principles, never fail to unite fraud to
force, for the purpt)8e of conimantHiiir the minds, as well
as tiodifs (jf tlieir an^jeils. The oltjecl, in this case, is to
substitute in the mimls of the governed, tiie advantage of
their rulers, for their own; aiid this may be ctlecled in
two ways ; tiist, by not suflVring them to be instructed at
all, in which case the power of Government jiesses wilh
the lV)rce of fatalism, anti requires Oi;ly the aid of a legal
religion to give it a divine sanction, that the mental chain
may l)e eomplttely rivetted. Secondly, by the Govern-
ment becoming itgelf the instructor : which is generally
eflecled by means of a legal religion, by the priests of
which the business of education is, liy various processes,
monopolized. Kn Avietlge, un;!er these circumstances, re-
semldes light passing through a coloured medium ; it repre-
sents the form of objecle, bui gives them artificial hues.

The American system is necessarily repugujint to both
these methods : the right of instruction is one of those
which the nation retains in its own hiiuds. 'J'o entrust it
to a government or a prieslhoud, woulil be to substitute
the political or religious creed of a sect, or party, in the
pitiCe of the interests of the nation.

SECTION IV.

OP THE EFFECTS OF THE AMERICAN SYSTEM.

Governments create neither men nor food ; consequent-
ly they cannot create happiness.*

Their operation is preventive, by neutralizing the ten-
dency e:'ch man has to injure others, for the snke of bene-
fitting bimstif; and this set ins to l;e the only positive ope-
ration l»y which they are iapalile of proninling national
feiiciiy. 'J'he frrsi and essential attribute of gooji govern-
ment IS, therefore, sjcurily for persons and pn)perly, by
means of ^^hich the universal stimulus of self-love is left

* Happiness;, as a politiral result, may I r defined to be the
enjnyiiieiit of personal (Vet'dnm. and of the means of snbsJKtenre,
sntfuiint for « arh individual, with those naturally di^ndant
on liim; meanin!r by suttirient, not the miniuinm of subulstence
necessary tor exist«'nce, hnt inrludin): h degree of eondbrt pro-
portioned fo the progress of the society in which lie lives, and
To the enjoyments of the upper classes hi it.

•

328

APPENDIX.

'■ n

k I

I 1

full scope to work out the good pf each individual, with-
out injury to others.

The laws protect personal Freedom in America, because
they expre-8 the general will, and are therefore para-
mount over any individual, or combination of individual
interests.

The remedy for illegal imprisonment is. as in England,
by writ of Habeas Corpus which issues in all cases what-
ever, ami can be su3|)ended in its operation by an Act of
Congress only, which, by a constitutional precfftt, may
be pMSt " in cases of reiiellion, and invasion only :" and
as the nation, by its representatives, is to judge of the oc-
casion, it is scarcely possible for a President to use the
pntext of plots, and conspiracies, to suspend the privileges
of the people.*

The American system secures propertj' by actual re-
presentation, and division of power. The first constitutes
the people judges of the necessity and amount of taxation
to be imposed; the second prevents the generation of any
interest, in opposition to that of the people, liy which its
property might, forcibly or fraudently, be extracted fromit.f

But while the healthful operation of Governments is
thus limited, their powers of producing evil dilate almost
into infinity. They cannot create a blade of grass, but
they can desolate the Universe ; and it is from this consi-
der ition we ascribe to them us virtue, the evils they for-
bear to create.

It would be endless to institute a comparison betwixt
the American system and other forms of Government,
unon every item of calamity Governments are capable of
priducinsr; one however, may be selected, because it is
either the cause or consequence of all others ; and of itself
fully ex'iress^R by its increase or diminution, the essential
nature of Political Systems : it is Want.;}^

* The Habeas Corpus act was never suspended during the
late war.

+ Any body of m^n having a powerfnl Interest in deceiving a
nation, will prnha' ly in the Inii": rnn, deceive it; and since
there is srarcelv any limit to human credulity, a (tystem of fraud
onop hesiun, will be »*ven more ruinous than one of simple op-
pr»»ssiob. hpeanse good-will in th^ former case, will re-pruduce
the food of the vulture, which preys upon it.

t Want Is oolltically thn reverse of political happiness : the
lack of a sv^ient maintenance for each individual and his fa-

APPENDIX.

829

al, with-

, because
•re para-
iilividual

England,
ses what-
in Act of
I'pJ, may
ly :'' and
L)f the oc-
o use the
|)rivilege8

actual re-
onstitutes
r taxation
on of any
which its
'd from it.j
nments is
[ite almost
i^rass, but
lis consi-
hey for-

betwixt

vernment,

apable of

ause it it

of itself
esseotial

uring the

leoeivlng a
and since
>in of fraud
simple op-
re-pruduce

iness : the
and his fa-

How f:ir is want affributable to Government i
Man is atiiinjlilt'd hoflj by renson (mil insliiict to soek
his own hapjtint-SB. and this lemlenoy, j)rovi<lett it he not
extTcised to the injury ofollifrs is illowfi! lo be i.uidifble.
WbHtever checks it must lln id'oie I'e evil, and, as refer-
able to h'nnm afjeiicy, tilarne i-Iile.

Considered with resx^ct lo its [>o!i(iciil h;ippinP9S or
misery. Society ni.iy be supposed to exist under llie fol-
lowing forms.

1. A Community m^y !»e planted on a 8«>il ca(»able of
feedini^ but a part of its ninnwer?, or iii a pisfile'.tial at-
mosphere, or ofi the crati^r nf a volca-.o. It is evidt^it
that in all these cases, misery must ensu.', whatever might
be the furm <»f Govermnnil, hecatiHe the obstdcit s lo
pu'dick happiness are natural, and therefore unavoid-
able.

2. h may be settle«l in a fertile country, but have in-
creased beyor\d any possible increase of the fecundity
of the soil. Here loo, NHture bars the ellorts of human
interference, as eflectually as in the former cases.

3. Suppose it however fixed on a territory ca|)able of
fiuppnrling; more than its present numbers, and yet a
large portion of these sulVeriug from want,* bow far
woidd Government in this inst-tnce, be chaigeable with
crushing or paralysing the universal tendency lowarda

mily. In the extreme it annihilates pergonal freedom, KJnre it
is inunaterial whether tlie law>d<?privc a man of his Jibertv, or
whether his poverty dni's iiiin the means of redress, should it
be taken from him illegally.

* The Unitful States thnm«elves prefient a curious illustra-
tion of this case. There ex sfs in several States a body of
men, consMMitin;; a mnjority of the population in many dis-
tricts, who lalmnr constantly, and yet never procure beyond
the eoarst"*! food, by which their i)odily slren:ith may he sup-
ported, without a siii(rl(i addii inal comfort, 'i'his cannot pro-
cc'mI Iron a rediinduKv of population, since every year new
townships are erected in tliese states and new villages Iniilt ;
nor IVoni the poverty of the soil, for their labour furnishes
others with luxuries; l»ut they are slaves, that is, they pos-
sess nothins aud their masters all. But were the social edi-
fice dissolved i\nd rehuiit hy pliysical force, would the result
be the same .' I<;vi<leutly not, for one master is not equal in
itr"na;th to .Wor 100 slaves. The inequality, therefore, and
consequent misery are the work of Government.

ff-

' p

330

APPEHDIX.

happiness ? To answer (his question, we must refer to
the cause of the evil complained of. Why do some want,
when Natuie would yield enough for all ?

A deficiency of individual exertion is the cause in
some few instances, but, unless artificially obstructed,
seiriove is on the average abundantly sufficient to excite
to seir gratification. There are few men, who if placed
on a desert island, would rather starve than work ; lew
who having obtained the necessaries, would not purchase
by toil some of the comforts of existence. The cause
must therefore be something insurmountable by human
industry. Let us assume the case of a slave.

Why are the labours of a slave insufficient to procure
his happiness.^ Because he labours for another, who, ac-
tuated by self-interest, will yield him no more of the pro-
duct of his toil, than barely suffices to preserve him in a
condition fit to continue it.

Grant him his freedom, would his situation be bettered
by it ? If his quondam masters continued absolute lords
of the whole soil, and this monopoly were secured to
them by power, clearly not. He would be forced to re-
ceive the minimum of subsistence as before. The proxi-
mate cause of his distress would be accumulation of pro-
perty in the hands of a governing class, but the effective
cause would be the law or system of Government, by
which this accumulation was created and maintained.

Wherever the feudal system existed, accumulation wat
effected by laws of primogeniture, entails, escheats, and .
forfeitures, which, with the aid of Ecclesiastical fraud, ^
divided the property of each state, betwixt the King,
Lords, and Church, leaving for the people's share, la-
bour and oppression. When feudalism decayed, it left
social institutions so constructed, as to afford a fit basis
for the modern substitution by which accumulation is still
preserved, Taxation."'

* Taxation has been said to divide instead of accumulating.
Suppose a nation to raise fiO.OOO.OOO/. annually in taxes, it
is evident such an inaposition goes to divide as far as the
payers are concerned, for no accumulation can take place
without a co-extensive division ; but what is the case with
regard to the receivers? It cannot be said, that the whole
sura is divided among the contributors, for then why raise
it ? It must therefore be divided among a less number, and
this is accumulation. It is true the soil may ostensibly con-
tinue in the same hands ; but as long as the occupiers yield

APPENDIX.

331

efer to
; want,

kuse in
tructed,

> excite
placed

rk; few
urchase

> cause
human

procure
who, ac-
the pro-
lim in a

bettered
ute lords
cured to
;ed to re-
he proxi-
)n of pro-
efTective
leot, by
lined,
lion was
ate, and
al fraud,
le King,
hare, la-
it left
fit basis
>n is still

[mulating.
taxes, it
kar as the
Ike place
Vase with
Ithe whole
vhy raise
fiber, and
libly con- *
iers yield

The American system, not being founded upon feudal
principles, rejects the law of primugeniture common to
European Governments, and huving subjected taxation
to National Sovereignty, leaves accumulation to the na-
tural order of events, by wiiich it is alternately repro-
duced and jlestroyed.'

Men are horn unequal in strength, talents, and appli-
cation : their success in lite is consequently unequal : one
man rises into affluence, another subsides into poverty.
But moral qualities are not inheritalile : the active and
skilful father is succeeded hy an indolent or weak son,
and vi-ce versa. Thus accumulation per|ietnally alternates
with division, and the general level of society is no
more destroyed than is that of the ocean, by the billows
which swell and sultside upon its surface.

Would not this system in any other country but Ameri-
ca, produce misery, by removing all checks to a supera-
bundant increase of population, and thus render the con-
dition of society worse generally than before? Perhaps
it would ' perhaps too« nature may have remedies in store,
when the occasion shall require them: in either case
governments which create inequality, and consequent
misery, by law, are not Just itiable ; tirsi, because it is
contrary to reason to 8ul)8titute a positive for a possible
evil; secondly, because they have in no case been em-
powered to sacrifice the present generation to posterity ;
thirdly, because in doing so they consider neither the
present generation nor posterity, but are actuated by
self-interest only, according to which they substitute the
increase of their own power for the general good.

♦ (

SECTION V.

CONCLUSION.

I have thus far touched upon the general principles
and most striking effects of the American system.

the chief part of their proiluct in taxes, they are no other than
cultivators or ViUani for the benefit of the receivers. They
may be treated with indulgence to render their services more
profitable, or with harshness, lest they should acquire courage
to resist, or sagacity to escape. The mode of their treatment
is indifferent to the fact.

332

APPENDIX.

With respect to its relative value, and to the advance*
ment it miiy be coiisiilered as having made in the science
of politicks, there will probably exist much diversity of
opinion, but none, I think, as to its utility with reference
to the American people. It has survived the tender
period of infancy, and outlived the prophecies of its
downfall.* By the trium;)h of the Democratick party,
its principles have been fostered into maturity, and their
application illustrated by experience. It has borne the
nation triumphantly through a period of donieslick diffi-
culty, and external danger; it has been found service-
able both in peace and war, and may well claim from
the nation it has saved, and honoured, the votive beae-
Hiciion of ^' Esto pcrpdua."

* I allude to Mr. Ames' Essay "On the Dangers of Ameri-
can Liberty," written in 180.'>. Fisher Ames was the Burke
of America. With an understanding Tigorous, and higlily
cultivated, he had the same vividness of imagination, united
with anite, it might almost be said, morbid sensibility. He
saw objects dimly, through the medium of discoloured feel-
ings, but his brilliant and heated fancy supplied the defi-
ciencies of reality, till he started at the phantastick crea-
tions of his own eloquence. The French Revolution had doubt-
less its admirers in America, and where political feelings
know no restraint, the expression of them will go even be-
yond the truth. There might be individuals too, whose
proper element was confusion, and who would theretbre have
gladly raised a tempest they hoped to govern, but to revo-
lutionize a nation by speeches and newspapers, is a project
incompatible with the known laws of human nature. Civil
commotions can be raiwd by suffering only, and by suffering
of a very intense kind. Men will not hazard a comfortable
existence for the sake of metaphysical doctrines, which i^ro-
mise them no advantages they are not already possessed of;
yet Mr. Ames assumes in his writings a possibility of this
kind, and labours to sh^^w how a few knaves may turn a hap-
py people topsy-turvy. As might be expected, the contrast
betwixt his facts, and his hifirences, is ludicrously striking.
Time has amply shewn the inanity of those gloomy forebodings,
which too probably weighed on his own distempered spirit,
and accelerated the close of a career adorned with the exhi-
bition of splendid talents, and directed by the purest feelings
of virtue and patriotism.

I'-v'

THE' END.

♦""^Wl

the advance-
in the science
1 diversity of
iWh reference
I the tender
hecies of its
rafick parly,
ily, and their
ts home the
nieslick diffi-
und service-
I clHim from
(Totive beue-

jers of Aineri-
vas the Burke
, and higiily
nation, united
isibility. He
coloured feel-
lied the deS-
itastick crea-
on had doubt-
tical feelings

go even be-
s too, whose
ficrefore have

but to revo-
. is a project
lature. Civil

by Kufllering

comfortable
, which i^ro-
30S$essed of;
bility of this

turn a hap-
the contrast
usiy striking.
' tbrebodings,
pered spirit,
b the exhi-
rest feehngs

.^.