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HE pen and pencil sketches of the Hudson River and its associations contained in this Volume, were made by the writer a few years ago, and were published in a series of numbers of the London Art- Journal (for which they were origi- nally prepared) during the years 18(50 and 1861. They have been revised by the writer for publication in the present form, changes in persons and things requiring such revision. It is impossible to give in pictures so necessarily small as are those which illustrate this Volume, an adequate idea of the beauty and grandeur of the scenery of the Hudson River ; so, in the choice of subjects, the judgment was governed more by considera- tions of utility tlian of mere artistic taste. Only such objects have been dclmeated and described as bore relations to the history traditions, and business life of the river here celebrated, whose course, from the Wilderness to the Sea, measures a distance ot lull three hundred miles. The reader will bear in mind that when the present tense is used, allusion is made to the beginning of the year 1866, at which time the revision of these sketches was made. B. J. L. PouOHKEBrsiE, N.Y., March, 18(j(j. ^\S3 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Initial Lefter-Tlic Cardinal Flower Mooseheud A Lodge in the Wilderness... ... ... Emjuette River Tenants of the Upper Hudson Forests' Camp Helena Sabattis Hend.-ick Spring \[ ' ' Swa-.np Travel Ca'.lin Lake ' First Clearing on the Hudson ... ." First Saw-Mill on the Hudson Elephant Island Lumber Dam and Sluice ... Initial Letter-Tlie Wayside Fountain Rapids at the Head of Harris's Lake SandfordLake The Iron Dam Adirondack Village Departure for Tahawus ' '" [' First Bridge over the Hudson Bark Cabin at Calamity Pond ... ,,, Hendersons Monument ... '" Fah in the Opalescent Hiver ... Climbing Tahawus Spring on the Peak of Taliawas!. Hospice on Uie Peak of Tahawus Initial Letter-A Sap Trough The Loon LakeColden Outlet of Henderson Lake ... " ' Ti-ees on Boulders Adirondack, or Indian Pass... Henderson's Lake Outoftlie Wilderness... ... Moose Horns ' Outlet of Paradox Lake .'." Isohi Bella Stumij-Machine ... ... '"' View at Warrensburg .. Confluence of tlie Hudson and Scarroii ' iort William Henry Hotel Liitial Letter-Cavern at Glen's Foils' [' Falls at Luzerne Masque Alonge ... ." '," I'AOE and I 7 9 . 10 12 . 13 . 14 . 15 16 17 18 19 19 21 22 23 25 26 28 29 30 31 33 34 35 36 40 41 43 43 44 45 46 49 50 51 52 54 55 66 67 69 60 61 LuwnieLake.' Confluence of the Hudson aii'd Sacandaga Kah-che-bon-eook, or Jesups Great Falls The Hudson near the Queensbury Line The Great Boom Glen's Falls ... ... Below the Bridge at Glen's Falls Baker's Falls Ground-plan of Fort Edward The Jenny M'Crea Tree ... ... Buhn-of-Uiiciid Tree ... ... '" View at Fort Edward "Cob-Money" ... .[[ "] " Fori Miller Kapids... ..". ... Initial Letter-Canal Bri'dge'kndBoat Canal Bridge across tlie Hudson above the Saratoga Dam Confluence of the Hudson and Batten'-Kiii Di-on-on-deh-o-wa, or Great Falls of the Batten-Kill The Reidesel House ... ... ... Cellar of Reidesel House Kapids of the Fish Creek, at 'sc'huyl'eirill'e The Schuyler Mansion Scene of Burgoyne's Surrender ... Gates's Head-quarters Rope Ferry Burgoyne's Encampment (from" a "prin't published in London, in 1779) .. House in which General Eraser died Eraser's Burial-place Neilson's House, Bemis's Heights Room occupied by Major Ackland Rehcs from the Battle Field Den-ick Swarf's House at Stillwater Viaduct of the Vermont Central Railway" Watcrford anl Lansingburgh Bridge View at Cohoes Fulls Lock at State Dam, Troy Vanderheyden House ... Rensselaer and .Saratoga'lla'i'lway Bridge " View of Troy from Mount Ida ' United Stat»s Arsenal at VVatervliet".".' Schuyler House at the Flats Van Rensselaer Manor House ... [ PASS . 62 62 . 63 . 65 . 66 69 . 70 . 73 74 77 79 80 80 81 83 84 8.1 86 87 87 88 90 93 94 96 97 98 99 100 103 104 loa 1U7 108 110 112 113 114 115 116 117 119 I'AOK Van Rensselaer Arms 121 Old Dutch C'LuroU in Albany 12-' Street View in Ancient Albany 124 Viindcrheydcii Palace 12.") Fort Frederick 127 Oencral Scliiiylcr's J.Tan.sior. in Albany ... 129 Staircase in Schuyler's Munsiiin I'M The Slate Capitol laii Canal Hasin at Albany I'M The Dudley Observatory 1:57 Greenbi.sh KaiKvay Station IWl View near the Overslajjh l-)2 Coxsakie Ml Fishing Station— Stnrjreon, Shad, Dass ... 14.5 View from the Promenade, Hudson 147 Athens, from the Hudson Iron Works ... 14>S View at Kalz-KiU Lauding 149 Entrance to the Katzbergs 1.51 Kip Van Winkle's Cabin 1.5S Mountain House, from the Road 1.5rt View from South Jloinitain l-^n Kaiers-Kill Falls 1H2 The Fawn's Leap I<2 Rondout Creek 184 Placentia l!*« Pouphkeepsic, from Lewisburg 187 Van Kleek House 189 The Highlands, from Poughkeeiisie 190 Locust Grove 191 Milton Ferrj" and Horse-Boat 192 New Hamburg Tunnel 19:< The Arbor VitsE 194 Marlborough, from the Lime-Kilns 19.5 Mouth of Wappingi's Creek 190 Washington's Head-quarters at Newburgh 199 Inteiior of Washington's Hcad-cinartcrs ... 200 Lifc-Gnard Monument 201 Newburgh Bay 202 Fishkill Landing and Newburgh 203 Idlewild from the Brook 204 In the Glen at Idle wild 20.5 Upper Entrance to the Highlands 207 At the Foot of the Storm King " The Powell " off the Stonn King Valley Scene off the Storm King Valley Highland Kutrancc to Newburgh Bay ... Northeni View from the Stonu King .Soiitheru View from the .Storm King Kidd's Plug Cliff Crow's Nest Cadet's Monument Cold Spring, from the CJemetery West Point, fnnti the Cemetery Fort Putnam, from the We.st View from Fort Putnam Lieutenant-Colonel WoimI's Jfonument ... View from the Siege Battery Tlie Great Chain We8t«?ru View, from Roe's Hotel The Parade Kosciuszko's Monument Dade's Connnand's Monument Kosciuszko's Garden View fro.n Buttery Knox The Heverly House The Stairc ise of the' Robinsons' House ... The Indian Falls View South from Dutilh's Indian Brook View from Rossiter'i 'lanslon AVest Point Foundr)' Undercliff Ruins of Batterj' on Constitution Island ... View at Garrison's ^ Cozzen.s's Church of the Holy Innocents The Road to Cozzcns's Dock Buttermilk Falls Upper Cascales, Buttermilk Falls Beverly Dock Lower Entrance to the Highlands, from Peek's Kill Falls in l-ort Montgomery Creek Scene in Fort Montgomery Creek Lake Sinnipink Anthony's Nose and the Sugar Loaf, from the Ice Deixlt Tunnel at Anthony's Nose The Brockeii Kill Rattlesnake Tininel at Flat Point lona, from the Railway Doiider Berg Point The Peek's Kill Skaters on Peek's Kill Bay Winter Fishing Fishermen, from the Old Lime-Kilns Tomkins's Lime-Kilns and QuaiTy Stony Point PAOK , 209 210 211 212 214 210 217 218 221 222 2'.'.'J 224 22.5 220 227 228 220 2.'?0 2:il 232 233 234 230 210 241 242 243 24.5 247 218 2.50 2.51 2.52 253 2-54 2.55 2,50 257 200 261 202 26;! 20,5 200 268 209 270 271 273 27.5 276 279 280 281 282 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Vll PA(»K Stony Point Ligluliouse and Fop-Hell ... ^•?:! Verplanck's roiiit, froiu Stony I'oii't Linhtlioiise 2A") Glassy Point ami Torn J!cmiituin 2."^rt Smith's House on TreiLson Hill 288 Meeting-place of Anc'ie and ArnoliI 2ii2 Sleiirli Killing on lUe Hudson 290 C'ldton Aiiuednct ut Sinjr Sing 2i'7 State Prison at Sing Sing 299 State Prisoners 30O C'rotoii Point, from Sing Sing 304 Hoekliinil, or Slaughterer's Landing 305 Hoeklaml Lake 30tl Mouth of the C'roton -W Croton Dain 309 Ventilators 310 Hijrh Bridge over the Croton 311 Van Corllandt Manor House 312 View from Priekly Pear Hill 31rt The Porpoise 317 General Ward's sransion 318 Ancient Dutch Church 320 Sleepy Hollow Bridge 321 Ir\ing"8 Grave 324 Philipsc's Mill-Bam 327 Philipse Castle "^rt Distant View at Tanytown J29 View on the Po-can-te-co from Irving Park 330 Jlonument r.t Tarrjlown 331 Washington's Head-quarters at Tappan ... 336 / ndre's Pen and Ink .Sketch 333 Andre's Monuniont 3.>9 Paulding Manor 340 Sunnyside 342 Ir\-ing's Study 'M3 The Brook at Sunnyside 346 The Pond, or " Mediterranean Sea " ... .347 Wolfert's Hoost when Irving pmx'Iiased it 350 View at Irvington ii5l Xevis 355 View at Dobhs's Ferry 3,56 View near Hastings 357 "Livingston Mansion 358 The Palisades 359 Philipse Manjr Hull 362 1 he " Half-Moon " 363 Font Hill 365 Mount St. Vincent Academy 366 Spyt den Duyvel Creek 367 The Century House 369 The High Bridge 3"2 The Harlem River, from the Morris House 373 The Morris Mansion 374 The Grange 37,1 View on Wasliington Heights 378 Jefferys Hook 379 PAGE Asylum for the Deaf null Dumb 3S0 Audubon s Residence 383 View in Trinity Cemetery 3S3 Maidnittaiiville, from Claremont 386 Claremoiit 387 View on Bl'omlngdale Road 389 Asylum for the Insane 390 Kim Park in 1861 391 Orphan Asylum 394 Harkni Plains 395 View ill Central Park 3H« The i'errace Bridge and Mall 399 A S(iuattcr Village 400 Provoost's Tonilj—.Tones's Woods 401 View near hell-(}ato 403 The Heekman Mansion 406 Turtle Hay and Blackwell's Island 407 The Reservoir, Fifth Avenue 408 Fifth Avenue Hotel, Madison Park 409 Worth's Monument 412 Union Park 415 Stiiyvesant Pear Tree 416 Stuyvesant's House 417 St. Mark's Church and Historical Society House 418 Biole House, Cooper Institute, and Clinton Hall 119 Washington's Residence as it ai)i)eared in \850 421 Franklin Square 423 Broadway at St. Paul's 424 Soldiers' Monument in Trinity Churchyard 426 Seals of New Aiuiterdam and New York. . . 427 Dutch Mansion ana Cottage in New Am- sterdam 423 The Bowling Green and F'-'t George in 17^3 429 The Bowling Green in 1861 431 The Battery and Castle Garde.i 432 Old Federal Hall , 433 Hudson River Steamers leaving New York 134 View near Nya^k 436 View from Fort Lee 4.'!3 Bull's Ferry 440 Duelling Ground, Weehawk 448 View at the Elysiaii Fields 4,50 Stevens's Floating Battei-y 451 Jersey City and Cunaitl Dock 4.53 Brooklyn FeiTy and Heights 454 Navy Yai-d, Brooklyn 4.55 Sylvan Water, Greenwood 4.56 Governor's and Bedloe's Islands 457 The Narrows, from Quarantine 458 Fort Lafayette 4.59 Fort Hamilton .160 Surf Bathing, Coney Island 461 Sandy Hook, from the Ship Channel .„ 462 Sandy Hook, from the Lighthouses 463 f . 1 THE HUDSON, FROM THE WILDERNESS TO THE SEA. CHAPTER I. IS proposed to iircsciit, in a scries of sketelies mth pen and pencil, pictures of the Hud- son River, from its birth among tlie mountains to its marriage with the ocean. It is by ftir tlie most interesting river in America, considering the beauty and mag- nificence of its scenery, its natural, political, and social history, the agricultural and mineral treasures of its vicinage, the com- mercial wealth hourly floating upon it.s bosom, and the relations of its geography and topography to some of the most im- portant events in the history of the Western hemisphere. High upon the walls of the governor's room in the New York City Hall IS a dingy painting of a broad-headed, short-haired, sparsely-bearded man, w.'tii an enormous ruffle about his neck, r:nd bearing the impress of an intellectual, courtly gentleman of the days of King James the i;rst of England. By whom it was painted nobody k..ows, but conjecture shrewdly guesses that it .ras delineated by the hand of l>.,ul Vm Someren, the skilful Flemish artist who painted the portraits of many persons of distinction in Amsterdam and London, in the reign or Januw and died in the British capital four years before that monarch. Wo are THE HUDSON. well assured that it is the portrait of an eminent navigator, who, in that remarkable year in the history of England and America, one thousand six hundred and seven, met "certaine worshippeful merchants of London," in the parlour of a son of Sir Thomas Gresham, in Bishopsgate Street, and bargained concerning a proposed voyage in search of a north-east passage to India, between the icy and rock-bound coasts of Nova Zembla and Spitzbergon. That navigator was Henry Hudson, a friend of Captain John Smith, a man of science and liberal views, and a pupil, perhaps, of Drake, or Frobishor, or Grenville, in the seaman's art. On May-day morning he knelt in tue church of St. Echclburga, and partook of the Sacrament ; and soon afterward he left the Thames for the circumpolar waters. During two voyages he battled the ice-pack manfully off the North Cape, but with- out success : boreal frosts were too intense for the brine, and cast impene- trable ico-barricrs across the eastern pathway of the sea. His employers praised the navigator's skill and courage, but, losing fj'.ith in the scheme, the undcrtaaing was abandoned. Hudson went to Holland with a stout heart ; and the Dutch East India Company, then sending their uncouth argosies to every sea, gladly employed "the bold Englishman, the expert pilot, and fiiraous navigator," of whose fame they had heard so much. At the middle of March, )G09, Hendrick, as the Dutch called him, sailed from Amsterdam in a yacht of ninety tons, named the Ifalf-Moon, manned with a choice crow, and turned his prow, once more, toward Nova Zembla. Again ice, and fogs, and fieice tempests, disputed his passage, and he steered westward, passed Cape Farewell, and, on the 2nd of July, maro soundings upon Ihc banks of Newfoundland. He sailed along the coast to the fine harbour of Charleston, in South Carolina, in search of a north-west passage " below Virginia," spoken of by his friend Captain Smith. Disappointed, he turned northward, discovered Delaware Bay, and on the 3rd of September anchored near Sandy Hook. On the 11th he passed through the Narrows into the present bay of New York, and from his anchorage beheld, with joy, wonder, and hope, the waters of the noble Mahicannituck, or Mohegan Eiver, flowing from the high blue hills on the north. Toward evening the following day he entered tlie broad stream, ai I with a full persuasion, on account of tidal currents, that the river upon which he was home flowed from ocean to ocean, he rejoiced in the dream of being the leader to the long-sought Cathay, liut when the magnificent highlands, ftfty miles from the sea, were passed, and the stream narrowed and the Avater freshened, hope failed him, Uut the indescribable beauty of the virgin land through which lie was voyaging, filled his heart and mind with exquisite pleasure ; and as deputations of dusky men came from the courts of the forest sachems to visit him, in wonder and awe, he seemed transformed into some majestic and mysterious hero of the old sagas of the North. The yacht anchored near the shore where Albany now stands, but u boat's crew, accompanied by Hudson, went on, and beheld the waters of the Mohawk foaming among the rocks at Cohoes. Then back to New York Bay the navigator sailed ; and after a parting salutation with the chiefs of the Manhattans at the mouth of the river, and taking formal possession of the country in the name of the government of Holland, he departed for Europe, to tell of the glorious region, filled with fur-bearing animals, beneath the parallels of the North Virginia Charter. He landed in England, but sent his log-book, charts, and a full account of his voyage to his employers at Amsterdam. King James, jealous because of the advantages which the Dutch might derive from these discoveries, kept Hudson a long time in England ; but the Hollanders had all necessary information, and very soon ships of the company and of private adventurers were anchored in the Avaters of the Mahicannituck, and receiving the wealth of the forests from the Avild men who inhabited them. Tlu Dutchmen and the Indians became friends, close-bound by the cohesion of trade. The river y/as named Mauritius, in honour of the Stadtholder of the Nelherlands, and the seed of a great empire avus planted there. The English, in honour of their countryman Avho discovered it, called it Hudson's River, and to the present time that title has been maintained; but not Avithout continual rivalry witli that of North River, given it by the early Dutch settlers after the discovery of the Delaware, which was named South lliver. It is now as often called Noi'.h Iliver as Hudson in the common transactions of trade, names of corporations, &c, ; but these, with Americans, being convertible titles, produce no confusion. For one hundred and fifty years after its discovery, the Hudson, aboA-e THE HUDSON. Albany, was little known to Avhite men, excepting hunters and trappers, and a few isolated settlers ; and the knowledge of its sources among lofty alpine ranges is one of the revelations made to the present century, and even to the present generation. And now very few, excepting the hunters of that region, have personal knowledge of the beauty and wild grandeur of lake, and forest, and mountain, out of which spring the fountains of the river wo are about to describe. To these fountains and their forest courses I made a pilgrimage toward the close of the summer of 1859, accompanied by Mrs. Lossing and Mr S. M. Bucldngham, an American gentleman, formerly engaged in mercantile business in Man- chester, England, and who has travelled extensively in the East. Our little company, composed of the minimum in the old prescription for a dinner-party — not more than the Muses nor less than the Graces — left our homes, in the pleasant rural city of Poughkeepsic, on the Hudson, for the wilderncsss of northern New York, by a route which we arc satisfied, by experience and observation, to be the best for the tourist or sportsman bound for the head Avaters of that river, or the high plateau northward and westward of them, where lie in solitary beauty a multitude of lakes filled with delicious fish, and embosomed in primeval forests abounding witii deer and other game. We travellcil by railway about one hundred and fifty miles to Whitehall, a small village in a rocky gorge, where Wood Creek leaps in cascades into the head of Lake Cham- plaiu. There we tarried until the following morning, and at ten o'clock embarked upon a steamboat for Port Kent — ouv point of departure for the wild iuterior, fur down the lake on its western border. The day was fine, and the shores of the lake, clustered with historical associations, presented a series of beautiful pictures ; for they wero rich with forest verdure, the harvests of a fruitful seed-time, and thrifty villages and faiTuhouscs. Behind these, on the cast, arose the lofty ranges of the Green Mountains, in Vermont ; and ou the Avest were the Adirondacks of New York, whither avo were journeying, their clustering peaks, distant and sliiidowy, bathed in the fiolden light of a summer afternoon. Lake Champlain is deep and narrow, and one hundred and forty mile in length. It received its present name from its discoverer, the eminent French navigator, Samuel Champlain Avho Avas upon its Avaters the same THE HUDSON. year "when Hudson sailed up the river which bears his name. Chaniplain came from the north, and Hudson from tl o south ; and they penetrated the "wilderness to points within a hundred miles of each other. Long before, the Indians had given it the significant title of Can-i-a-de-ri Gua- run-te, the Door of the Country. The appropriateness of this name will bo illustrated hereafter. It was evening "when "wo arrived at Port Kent. We remained until morning "with a friend (Winslow C. Watson, Esq., a descendant of Governor Winslow, who came to Ncav England in the Matjftowey), whose personal explorations and general knowledge of the region wo were about to visit, enabled him to give us iUior' matiou of much value in our subsctiuent course. With himself and family wc visited the walled banks of the Great Au Sable, near Keescville, and stood with wonder and awe at the bottom of a terrific gorge in sandstone, rent by an carthc^uake's power, and a foaming riv'er rushing at our feet. The gorge, for more than a mile, is from thii'ty to forty feet in width, and over one hundred in depth. This was our first experience of the wild scenery of the north. The tourist should never pass it unnoticed. Our direct route from Keescville lay along the picturesque valley of tho Great Au Sable lliver, a stream broken along its entire course into cascades, draining about seven hundred squai-e miles of mountain country, and falling four thousand six hundred feet in its passage from its springs to Lake Champlain, a distance of only about forty miles. We made a detour of a few miles at Keescville for a special purpose, entered the valley at twilight, and passed along the margin of tho rushing waters of the Au Sable six miles to the Forks, where we remained until morning. Tho day dawned gloomilj*, and for four hours wc rode over the mountains toward the Sarauac Eiver in a drenching rain, for which we were too well prepared to experience any inconvenience. At Franklin Falls, on the Saranae, in the midst of the wildest mountain scenery, where a few years before a forest village had been destroyed by fire, "wo dined upon trout and venison, the common food of the wilderness, and then rode on toward the Lower Sarauac Lake, at the foot of which we were destined to leave roads, and horses, and industrial pursuits behind, and live upon tho solitary lake and river, and in the almost unbroken woods. *. 6 THE HUDSON. The clouds were scattered early in the afternoon, but lay in heavy masses upon the summits of the deep hluc mountains, and deprived us of the pleasure to be derived from distant views in the amphitheatre of everlasting hills through which we were joumeying. Our road was over a high rolling country, fertile, and in process of rapid clearing. The log- houses of the settlers, and the cabins of the charcoal burners, were frequently seen ; and in a beautiful valley, watered by a branch of the Saranac, we passed through a pleasant village called Bloomingdale. Toward evening we reached the sluggish outlet of the Saranac Lakes, and at a little before sunset our postilion reined up at liaker's Inn, two miles from the Lower Lake, and fifty-one from Port Kent. To the lover and student of nature, the artist and the philosopher, the country through which wo had passed, and to which only brief allusion may here be made, is among the most inviting spots upon the globe, for magnificent and picturesque scenery, mineral weidth, and geological wonders, abound on every side. At Baker's Inn every comfort for a reasonable man was found. There Avo piocured guides, boats, and provisions for the wilderness; and at a little pas-t noon on the following day we were fairly beyond the sounds of the setth ments, upon a placid lake studded with islands, the sun shining in unclouded splendour, and the blue peaks of distant mountains looming above the dense forests that lay in glocmy grandeur between us and their rugged acclivities. Our party now consisted of five, two guides having been added to it. One of them was a son of Mr. Baker, the other a pure-blooded Penobscot Indian from the slate of Uaine. Each had a light boat — so light that he might carry it upon his shoulders at portages, or the intervals between the navigable portions of streams or lakes. In one of these was borne our luggage, provisions, and Mr. Buckingham, and in the other Mrs. Lossing and myself. The Saranac Lakes are three in number, and lie on the south-eastein borders of Franklin County, north of Mount Seward. They are known as the Upper, Round, and Lower. The latter, over Avhich we first voyaged, is six miles in length. From its head we passed along a winding and narrow river, fringed with rushes, lilies, and moose-head plants, THE HUDSON. almost to the central or Round Lake, where we made a portage of a few rods, and dined beneath a towering pine-tree. "While there, two deer- hounds, whose voices we had heard in the forest a few minutes before, came dashing up, drip!)ing with the lake water through which they had been swimming, and, after snuflSng the scent of our food wistfully for a moment, disappeared as suddenly. We crossed Round Lake, three and a half miles, and went up o narrow river about a mile, to the fulls A LOllfili I.N TirK WILDKRSESS. at the outlet of the Upper Saranac. Here, twelve miles from our embarkation, was a place of entertainment for tourists and sportsmen, in the midst of a small clearing. A portage of an eighth of a mile, over which the boats and luggage were carried upon a waggon, brought us to the foot of the Upper Lake. On this dark, wild sheet of water, thirteen miles in length, wo embarked toward the close of the day, and just before sunset reacheii the lodge of Corey, a hunter and guide well known in all that region. It stood near the gravelly shore of a beautiful bay with a large island in its bosom, heavily wooded with evergreens. It was Saturday evening, and here, in this rude house of logs, where we had 8 THE HUDSON. been pleasantly received by a modest and genteel young woman, we resolved to spend the Sabbath. Ifor did we regret our resolution. "Wo found good wilderness accommodations ; and at midnight the hunter came with his dogs from a long tramp in the woods, bringing a fresh-killed deer upon his shoulders. Our first Sabbath in the wildcnicss was a delightful one. It was a perfect summer-day, and all around us were freshness and beauty. Wo were alone with God and His works, far away from the abodes of men ; and Avhen at evening the stars came out one by one, they seemed to the communing spirit like diamond lamps hung up in the dome of a great cathedral, in which we had that day worshipped so purely and lovingly. It is profitable, as Bryant says, to " Go abroarl Upon the paths of Nature, and, wlien all Its voices whisper, and its silent things Are breathing the deep bemity of the world, Kneel at its ample altar." Early on Monday morning we resumed our journey. We walked a mile through the fresh woods to the upper of the three Spectacle Ponds, on which we were to embark for the Raquette River and Long Lake. Our boats and luggage were here carried upon a waggon for the last time ; after that they were all borne upon the shoulders of the guides. Hero we were joined by another guide, with liis boat, who was returning to his home, near the head waters of the Hudson, toward which we were journeying. The guides who were conducting us were to leave us at Long Lake, and finding the one who had joined us intelligent and obliging, and well acquainted with a portion of the region we were about to explore, we engaged him for the remainder of our wilderness travel. The Spectacle Ponds are beautiful sheets of water in the forest, lying near each other, and connected by shallow streams, through which the guides waded and dragged the boats. The outlet — a narrow, sinuous stnnim, and then shallow, because of a drought that was prevailing in all that northern country — is called " Stony Brook." After a course of three and a half miles through wild and picturesque scenery, it empties into the Ruquettc .'liver. All along its shores we saw fresh tracks of the THE HUDSON. 9 deer, and "pon its banks the splendid Cardinal flower {Lobelia cardinalifi), glowing like flame, was seen in many a nook.* Our entrance into the Raquctte was so quiet and uncxpoctcd, thiit we KAyLErrii rivkd. were not aware of the change until we were fairly upon its broader bosom. It is the most beautiful rivor in all that wild interior. Its * This superb plant is found from July to October nlong the shores of llio lakes, rivers, luiil rivulets, anil in swamps, all over northern New York. It is perennial, anil is borne upon an erect stem, from two to tluee feet in heif;ht. The leaves are long anil slender, with along, tapering base. The flowers are large and verj- showy. Corolla bright scarlet; the tube slender; segments of tlie lower lip oblong- lanceolate ; filaments red; anthers blue ; stigma thrce-Iobed, and at length protruded. It grows readily when transplanted, even in dry soil, and is frequently seen in our gardens. A picture of this jjlant tonus a portion of the design around tlie initial letter at the head of this chapter. H 10 THE HUDSON. shores are gcnernllj' loT;r, and extend back some distance in wet prairies, upon wliich grow the soft maple, the aspen, alder, linden, and other deciduous trees, interspersed with the hemlock and pine. These fringe its borders, and standing in chimps upon the prairies, in the midst of rank grass, give them the appearance of beautiful deer parks ; and they are really so, for thore herds of deer do pasture. "We saw their fresh tracks all along the shores, but they are now so continually hunted, that they keep away from the waters whenever a strange sound falls upon their cars. In the deep wilderness through which this dark and rapid river flows, and around the neighbouring lakes, the stately moose yet lingers ; .<:'. TENANTS OF TUK ll'l'KK JILDSUN lOHKSia. and u]ion St. liegis Lake, north of the Saranao group, two or three families of the beaver — the most rare of all the tenants of these forests — might then be found. The otter is somewhat abundant, but the panther has become almost extinct ; the wolf is seldom seen, except in winter ; and the black bear, quite abundant in the mountain ranges, was shy and invisible to the summer tourist. The chief source of the Raquctte is in Eaquette Lake, toward the western part of Hamilton County. Around it the Indians, in the ancient days, gathered on snow-shoes, in winter, to hunt the moose, then found « < tbt'io iu large droves ; aud from that circumstance they named it " llaquet," the equivalent in I'reuch for snow-shoe in English.* Seven miles from our entrance upon the Ra(j[uette, -.ve came to the *' Falls," where the stream rushes in cascades over a rocky bed for a mile. At the foot of the rapids we dined, and then walked a mile over u lofty, thickly-wooded hill, to their heal, where we rc-cmbarked. Here our guides first carried their boats, aud it was surprising to see with what apparent case our Indian took the heaviest, weighing at lea^>t 1(50 lbs., aud with a dog-trot bore it the whole distance, stopping only once. The boat rests upon a yoke, similar to those which Avater-carriers use in some countries, fitted to the neck aud shoulders, aud it is thus borne with the ease of the coracle. At the head of the rapids we met acquaiutauccs — two clergymen in hunting costume — and after exchauging salutations, we voyaged on six miles, to the foot of Long Lake, through wliich the llaquette flows, like the llhone through Lake Geneva. This was calh'd by the Indians Inca- pah-chow, or Linden Sea, because the forests upon its shores abounded with the bass-wood or American linden. As we entered that beautifrd sheet of water, a scene of indescribable beauty opened upon the vision. The sun was yet a little above tlie western hills, whose long .-^adows lay across the wooded intervals. Uefore us was the lake, calm and trans- lucent as a mirror, its entire length of thirteen miles in view, except where broken by islands, the more distant appearing shadowy in the purple light. The lofty mountaiu ranges on both sides stretched away into the blue distance, and the slopes of one, and the peak of another, were smoking like volcanoes, the timber being on fire. Wear us the groves upon the headlaiuls, solitary trees, rich shrubbery, graceful rushes, the clustering moose-head and water-lily, and the gorgeous cloud-pictures, were perfectly reflected, and produced a scene such as the mortal eye seldom beholds. The sun went dov.n, the vision faded ; aud, sweeping around a long, marshy point, we drow our boats upon a pebbly shore at * Tliis is the account of the origin of its name, given by tlie Ficncli Jesuits who first explored tliiit region. Others say that its Inilian name, Ni-ha-nn-ua-tc, means a racket, or noise— noisy river, antl spell it liacUt. But it is no more noisy than ite near neighbour, the Grass River which flows into the St. Lawrence from the bosom of the same wilderness. 12 THE HUDSON. twilight, at tliu foot of a pine-bluft", ami proceeded to erect a camp for the night. Xo human habitation was near, excej^ting the bark cabin of Bowen, the " Horm't of Long Lake," whoso history wc have not space to record. Our camp was soon constructed. The guides selected a pleasant spot near the foot of a lofty pine, placed two crotchcd sticks perpendicularly in the ground, about eight feet apart, laid a stout polo horizontally across CAJIP HELEXA. them, placed others against it in position li ke the rs of half a roof, one end upon the ground, and covered the whole and both sides with the boughs of the hemlock and pine, leaving front open. The ground was then strewn with the delicate sprays of hemlock and balsam, making a sweet and pleasant bed. A few feet from the front they built a huge fire, and prepared supper, which consisted of broiled partridges (that were shot on the shores of the llaquctte by one of the guides), bread and butter, tea and maple sugar. We supped by the light of a birch-bark torch, fastened to a tall stick. At the dose of a moonlight evening, our fire burning brightly, we retired for the night, wrapped in blanket shawls, oui' satchels and their contents serving for pillows, our heads at the back part of the "camp," and our feet to the tire. The guides lying near, kept the wood blazing throughout the night. "NVo named the place Cam}) IFelena, in compliment to the lady of our partj*. The morning dawned gloriously, and at an early hour we proceeded I'p the Lica-jHth-choir, in the face of a stiff breeze, ten miles to the mouth of a clear stream, that came down from one of the burning mountains which we saw the evening before. A walk of half a mile brought us to quite un extensive clearing, and Houghton's house of entertainment. There we dismissed our Saranac guides, and despatched oii horseback the one who had joined us on the Spectacle Ponds to the home of Mitchell Sabattis, a St. Francis Indian, eighteen miles distant, to procure his services for our tour to the head waters of the Hudson. Sabattis was by far the best man in all that region to lead the traveller to the Hudson waters, and the Adirondack Mountains, for he had lived in that neighbourhood from his youth, and was then between thirty and forty years of age. He was a grandson of Sabattis mentioned in history, who, with Natanis, be- friended Colonel Benedict Arnold, while on his march through the wilderness from the Kennebeck to the Chaudiere, in the autumn of 1775, to attack Quebec. Much to our delight and relief, Sabattis returned with our messenger, for the demand for good guides was so great, that we were fearful he might be absent on duty with others. Thick clouds came rolling over the mountains from the south at sAUArris. i evening, presaging a storm, and the niglit I'ell intensely dark. The burning hill above us presented a magnificent appearan-je in the gloom. The fire was in broken points-' over a surface of half a mile, near the summit, and tho appearance was like a city upon the lofty slope, brilliantly illuminated. It was stid to see the fire sweeping away whole acres ol fine timber. But such scenes arc frequent in that region, and every buld and bhtckcned hill-top in the ranges is the record of a conflagration. We were detained at Houghton's the following day by a heavy rain. On tho morning Jifter, the clouds drifted away early, and with our new and excellent guides, Mitchell Sabattis and "William Preston, we went down the lake eight miles, and landed at a " carry" — as the portages are called — on its eastern shore, within half a mile of Hendrick Spring (so named in honour of Hen- drick Hudson), the most re- mote source of the extreme western branch of our noble river. To reach -water navig- able witli our boats, we were compelled to walk through Ibrest and swamp about two miles. That was our first really fatiguing journey on foot, for to facilicivto the pas- sage, Avc each carried as mucli luggage as possible. We found ]lendrick Spring in the edge of a swamp— cold, shidlow, about five feet in diameter, shaded by trees, shrubbery, and vines, and fringed with the delicate brake and fern. Its waters, rising within half a mile of Long Lake, and upon the same summit level, flow southward to tho Atlantic more than three hundred miles ; while those of the latter flow to the St. Lawrence, and reach the same Atlantic a thousand miles away to the far north-east. A few years ago, Professor G. W. liencdict IIENUHICK S"RIXa. 1? (who was connected with the State Geological Svirrey) attempted to unite those waters hy a ranal, for lumhoring purposes, hut the enterprise was ahandoncd. TVe followed the ditch that ho had cut through the swamp nearly half a mile, among tall raspbcny bushes, laden with delicious fruit, and for another half mile we made our way over the most diflScult ground imr.ginablc. Dead trees were lying in every direction, some charred, others prone with black ragged roots, and .all entangled in shrubbery and vines. Through this labyrinth our guides carried their 8MA.MP TUAVJSI.. boats, i.ud wo quite heavy packs, but all wore compelled to rest every few minutes, for Uw sun wiis shining hotly upon us. Wo were nearly an liour iravolling that half mile. Thoroughly wearied, we entered one of the boats at the first navigable point on Spring Brook, that flows from the ]iendri(k source, and rowed leisurely down to Fountain Lake, while our guides returuHfli for the remainder of the luggage and provisions. The passage of that portage consumed four hours. Fountain Lake is the first collection of the waters of the west branch of the Hudson. It is about two miles in circumference, with higlily picturesque shores. It empties into Catlin Lake through a shallow, stony outlet. From both of these we had fine views of the nefr Suntanoni Mountains, and the more distant ranges of Mount Seward, on the east. At the foot of Fountain Lake is another " carry " of a mile. A few rods down its outlet, whero we crossed, we found the remains of a dam and C.Vn.l.N LAlvE. sluice, erected by riofcssor Benedict, to raise the waters so as to flow through his canal into Long Lake, and for another purpose, which Avill be explained presently. The sun went down while wc were cros?ing this portage, and finding a good place for a camp on the margin of a cold mountain stream in the deep forest, wc concluded to remain there during the night. Our guides soon constructed a shelter with an inverted boat, poles, and boughs, and wc all slop' soundly, after a day of excessive toil. In the morning wo embarked upon the beautiful Catlin Lake, and rowed to its outlet — three miles. After walking a few rods over THE HUDSON. 17 boulders, while our guides dragged the boats thr-zUgh a narroAV channel between them, we re-crabarked upon Narrow Lake, and passed through it and Lilypad Pond — a mile and a half — to another "carry" of three- fourths of a mile, which brought us to the junction of the Hudson and Fishing Erook. This was a dreary region, and yet highly picturesque. It was now about noon. Sabattis informed us that, a little way up the Fishing Brook, were a clearing and a saw-mill — the first on the Hudson. FIRST CLKAHINIi ON TUK JIl'DSON Wo walked about half a mile through the woods to sec thoui. Emerging from the forest, wo came to a field filled with boulders and blackened .•itumps, and, from the summit of a hill, wo overlooked an extensive rolling valley, heavily timbered, stretching westward t', the Windfall Mountains, and at our feet were the Clearing and the Saw mill. The latter stood at the head of a deep rocky gorge, down which great logs are sent at high water. The clearing was too recent to allow much fruit of tillage, but preparations were made for farming, in the erection of a good frame dwelling and outhouses. The head waters of this consid(>rablo tributary of the Upper Hudson is Pickwaket I'ond, four miles above the mill. ! 13 THE HUDSON. A short distance below the confluence of the Hudson and Fishing Brook, wc entered Rich's Lake, an irregular sheet of water, about two miles and a half In length, with surroundings more picturesque, in some FIRST SAM'-MILL ON THK HUDSON. respects, than any wc had visited. From its southern shore Goodcnow ^lountain rises to an altitude of about filteen hundred feet, crowned by a rocky knob. Near the foot of the lake is a wooded peninsula, whose low isthmus, being covered at high water, leaven it an island. It is called Elephant Island, because of the singular resemblauco of some of the lime- THE HUDSON. 19 stone formation that composes its bold shore to portions of that animal. The whole rock is perforated into singularly-formed caves. This, and ,; KLKl'HA.M' ISLAM). another sin'"lar shore a few miles below, were tlic only deposits of lime- stone that we saw in all thi.t region. At the outlet of Ilich's Lake were the ruins of v. dam and lumber LU.MliEll DAM A>D SLUICE, j'luice, similar in construction and intended use to that of Professor Benedict at Fountain Lake. The object of such, structures, which occur r" OQ the "Upper Hudsou, is to gather the logs that float from above, and then, by letting out the accumulated waters by the sluice, giA'e a flood to the shallow, rocky outlets, sufficient to carry them all into the next lake below, where the process is repeated. These logs of pine, hemlock, cedar, and spruce, arc cut upon the borders of the streams, marked on the ends by a single bl-^w with a hammer, on the face of which is the monogram of the owner, and then cast into the waters to be gathered and claimed perhaps at the gi'oat boom near Glen's Falls, a hundred miles below. We shall again refer to this process of collecting lumber from the mountains. li! CHAPTER II. ^N the old settlement of Pendleton, in the town of Ncweomb, Essex County, we spent our second Sabbath. That settlement is between the head of liioh's Lake and the foot of Harris's Lake, a distance of five or six miles along their southern shores. It derives its name from Judge Nathaniel Pendleton, who, about fifty years ago, mado a clearing there, and built a dam, and grist, and saw-mill at the foot of Ilich's Lake, where the lumber dam and sluice, before men- tioned, were afterwards made. Here was the home of Sabattis, our Indian guide, who owned two hundred and forty acres of land, with good improvements. His wife was a fair German woman, the mother of several childi-en, unmistakably marked with Indian blood. It was Friday night when we arrived at the thrifty Pendleton settle- ment, and we resolved to spend the Sabbath there. "Wo found excellent accommodation at the farmhouse of Daniel Bissell, and, giving Preston a furlough for two days to visit his latcly-manicd wife at his home, nine miles distant, we all went in a single boat the next day, manned by Sabattis alone, to visit Harris's Lake, and the confluence of its outlet with the Adirondack branch of the Hudson, three miles below Bissell's. That lake is a beautiful sheet of water, and along the dark, sluggish river, above the rapids at its head, we saw the cardinal flower upon the banks, and the rich moose-head * in the water, in great abundance. * Tliis, ill Iho books, is calloil Pickeicl Wcoil {I'onicdcria conlata of LimijEUs), but the guides call it moose-Iiead. The*stein ia stout and cyliiidrioal, and bears a spear-shaped leaf, Bomewhat conlate at the base. Tlie flowers, wliioh appear in July and August, arc composed of dense spikes, of a rich blue colour. A picture of Uie moose-head is secu iu the water beneath the initial letter at the head of Chapter I. 22 THE HUDSON. The rapids at the head of Harris's Lake arc very picturesque. Look- ing up from them, Goodenow Mountain is seen in the distance, and still more remote are glimpses of the Windfall range. We passed the rapids upon boulders, and then voyaged down to the confluence of the two streams just mentioned. From a rough rocky bluff a mile below that point, we obtained a distant view of three of the higher peaks of the Adirondacks— Tahawus or Mount Marcy, Moimt Golden, and Mount M'Intyre. Wc returned at evening beneath a canopy of magnificent clouds ; and that night was made strangely luminous by one of the most KAl lua AT TUB UEAD OF HABBIS'S LAKB. Splendid displays of the Aurora Borealis ever seen upon ^the contincut. It Avas observed as far south as Chirlostou, in South Carolina. Sabattis is an active Methodisi> and at his request (their minister not having arrived) Mr. Buckingham read the beautiful liturgy of the Church of England on Sunday morning to a congregation of thirty or forty people, in the school-house on our guide's farm. In the afternoon we attended a prayer-meeting at the same place ; and early the next morning, while a storm of wind and heavy mist was sweeping over the country, started with our two guides, in a lumber waggon, for the Adirondack Mountains. We now left our boats, in which and on foot we had travelled, from the THE HUDSON. 23 lower Saranac to Hams' s Lake, more than seventy miles. It was a tedious journey of twenty-six miles, most of the way over a "corduroy" road — a causeway of logs. On the way wc passed the confluence of Lake Delia with the Adirondack branch of the Hudson, reached M'Intyre's Inn (Tahawus House, at the foot of Sandford Lake) toward noon, and at two o'clock were at the little deserted village at the Adirondack Iron Works, between Sandford and Henderson Lakes. We passed near the margin of the former a large portion of the way. It is a beautiful body of water, nine miles long, with several little islands. From the road along its SANDFORD LAKE. shores we had a tine view of the three great mountain peaks just mentioned, and of the Wall-face Mountain at the Indian Puss. At the house of Mr. Hunter, the only inhabitant of the deserted village, we dined, and then prepared to ascend the Great Tahawus, or Sky-piercer. The little deserted village of Adirondack, or M'Intyre, nestled in a rocky valley upon the Upper Hudson, at the foot of the principal motm- tain barrier which rises between its sources and those of the Au Sable, and in the bosom of an almost unbroken forest, appeared cheerful to us weary wanderers, although smoke was to be seen from only a solitary 24 THE HUDSON. chimney. The hamlet — consisting of sixteen dwolling-houses, furnaces, and other edifices, and a building with a cupola, used for a school and public worship — was the offspring of enterprise and capital, which many years before had combined to develop the mineral wealth of that region. That wealth was still there, and almost untouched — for enterprise and capital, compelled to contend with geographical and topographical impediments, have abandoned their unprofitable application of labour, and left the rich iron ores, apparently exhaustless in quantity, to bo quarried and transformed in the not far-off future. The ores of that vicinity had never been revealed to the eye of civilised man until the year 1826, when David Henderson, a young Scotchman, of Jersey City, opposite New York, while standing near the iron-works of his fother-in-law, Archibald M'Intyrc, at North Elba, in Essex County, was approached by a St. Francis Indian, known in all that region as a brave and skilful liunter — honest, intelligent, and, like all his race, taciturn. The Indian took from beneath his blanket a piece of iron ore, and handed it to Henderson, saying, " You want to see 'um ore ? Me fine plenty — all same." When asked where it came from, ho pointed toward the south-west, and said, " Me hunt beaver all 'lone, and fine 'um where water run over iron-dam." An exploring party was immediately formed, and followed the Indian into the deep forest. They slept that night at the base of the towering cliff of the Indian Pass. The next day they reached the head of a beautiful lake, -which they named " Henderson," and followed its outlet to the site of Adirondack village. There, in a deep-shaded valley, they beheld with wonder the "iron dam," or dyke of iron ore, stretched across a stream, which was afterward found to be one of the main branches of the Upper Hudson. They at once explored the vicinity, and discovered that this dyke was connected with vast deposits of ore, which formed rocky ledges on the sides of the narrow valley, and presented beds of metal adequate, appa- rently, to the supply of the world's demand for centuries. It is believed that the revealer of this wealth was Peter Sabattis, the father of our Indian guide. The explorers perceived that all around that vast deposit of wealth in the earth was an abundant supply of hard wood, and other necessary L THE HUDSON. 25 ingrpflicnts for the manufacture of iron ; and, not withstand in p; it was thirty miles from any liighway on land or -water, ■with an uninterrupted sweep of forest between, and more than a hundred miles from any market, the entire mineral ref>ion — romprisins; more than a Avliole township — was purchased, and imparations were soon made to develop its resources. A partnership was formed between Archibald IM'Intyre, Archibald liobert- adack the was was the liev cd our Ith in [ssary TICK IRON DAM. son, and David Hcnicrson, all related by marriage ; and_^witirslij;ht aid fi'ora the State, they constructed a road through the wilderness, from the Scarron [Schroonj Valley, near Lake Cliamplain, to the foot of Sandford Lake, halfway between the head of which and the beautiful Henderson Lake was the ** iron dam." There a settlement was commenced in 1834. A timber dam was constructed upon the iron one, to increase the fall of water, and an experiineutal furnace was built. Hare and most valuable ]; 26 THE HUDSON. iron was produced, equal to any from the best Swedish furnaces ; and it was afterward found to be capable of being wrought into stocl equal to the best imported from England, The proprietors procured an act of incorporation, under tlic title of the " Adirondack Iron and Steel Company," with a capital, at first, of $1,000,000 (£200,000), afterward increased to l||;3,000,000 (£600,000), and constiiicted another furnace, a forge, stamping-mill, saw and grisc mill, macliine-shops, powder-house, dwellings, boarding-house, school- house, baras, sheds, and kilns for the manufacture of charcoal. At the foot of Sandford Lake, eleven miles south from Adirondack village, they also commenced a settlement, and named it Tahawus, where they erected ADIBOKi)ACK VILLAGK. a dam seventeen luindrcd feet in length, a saw-mill, Avarehouses, dwell- ings for workmen, &c. And in 1854 they completed a blast furaaco near the upper village, at the head of Sandford Lake, at an expense of $43,000 (£8, GOO), capable of producing fourteen tons of iron a-day. They also built six heavy ; oats upon Sandford Lake, for the transportation of freight, and roadb i.f an expense of $10,000 (£2,000). Altogether the proprietors spent nearly half a million of dollars, or £100,000, [Meanwhile the project of a railway from Saratoga to Sackett's Harbour, on Lake Ontario, to bisect the gi'cat wilderness, was conceived, A company was formed, and forty miles of the road were put under contract, and actually graded. It would pass within a few miles of the Adirondack THE HUDSON. 27 "Works, uucl it 'ivaa estimatucl that, with a connecting branch road, the iron might be conveyed to Albany for two dollars a ton, and compete profitably with other iron in the market. A plank road was also projected from Adirondack village to Preston Ponds, and down the Cold Eiver to the llaquette, at the foot of Long Lake. But the labour on the road *va8 suspended, the iron interest of the United States became depressed, the Adirondack Works were rendered not only unprofitable, but the source of h^avy losses to the owners, and for five years their fires had been extinguished. In August, I806, heavy rains in the mountains sent roaring floods down the ravines, and the Hudson, only a brook when we Avcre there, was swelled to a mighty river. An upper dam at Adirondack gave way, and a ncAV channel for the stream Avas cut, and the great dam at Tahawxis, with the saw-mill, was demolished by the rushing waters. All was left a desolation. Over scores of acres at the head and foot of Sandford Lake (ovcriicrccl when the dam was constructed) we saw wliitc skeletons of trees which had been killed by the flood, standing thickly, and heightening the dreary aspect of the scene. The workmen had all departed from Adirondack, and only llobert Hunter and his family, who Iiad charge of the property, remained. The original proprietors were all dead, and the property, intiinsically valuable but immediately unproductive, was in the possession of their respective families. But the projected railway "will yet be constructed, because it is needful for the development and use of that immense mineral and timber region, and again that forest village will be vivified, and the echoes of the deep breathings of its furnaces will be heard in the neigh- bouring mountains. At Mr. Hunter's we prepared for the rougher travel on *'oot through the mountain forests to Tahawus. ten miles distant. Here we may properly instnict the expectant tourist in this region in regard to such preparation. Every arrangement should be as simple as possible. A man needs only a stout flannel hunting shii't, coarse and trustworthy trousers, woollen stockings, large heaAy boots well saturated with a com- position of beeswax and tallow, a soft felt hat or a cap, and strong buck- skin gloves. A woman needs a stout flannel dress, over shortened crinoline, of short dimensions, with loops and buttons to adjust its length ; THE HUDtiON. a hood ami cape of the same materialsj, made so as to cu' elop the head and bust, and leave the arms free, woollen stockings, stout calfskin boots that cover the legs to the knee, well saturated with beeswax and tallow, and an india-rubber satchel for necessary toilet materials. Provisions, also, should be simple. The hunters live chiefly on bread or crackers. I>£;-AUTl.'B£ I'OB TAUAWUS. and maple sugar. The usiud preparation is a sufficient stock of Boston crackers, pilot-bread, or couimou loaf-bread, butter, tea or coffee, pepper i!nd salt, an ample (^Uiuititj' of maple sugar, ••• and some salted pork, to use in frying or lioiling fish, birds, and game. The utensils for cooking are .«, short-handled frying-pan, a broad and shallow tin pan, tin tea or coft'ee- * The luii'd, or S':;;iu' Miiiilo (Acir snrrhiiriiiiiiit), ubuuii(l» in all imi'ls iif the Stute of Now Vork. It i-< II b'Miiitiriit Ireo, ofioii foiiiul fruiu filtj to I'i^jhty tVot in height, uud the trunk from two to three feet ill iliuiiieler. l-'rom the sup, vihich Hows iibiiiuluiitly i.. "he fprinff, ileliiioiis Bjiup and excellent Kii^fur are made. In the Upiier Hudson ro>;ion, the sup i.i imunred by making a small incision witli an axe, or n hole with an aupur, into the body of the tree, into wliieh a small tnbe or giiltcr is fastened. Imoiu Ihence the sap Hows, and is caught in rough troughs, dngont of small logs. [See the i.iilial letter at the head of Chapter III.] It is cullected into tubs, and boiled in ealdrou kettles. The syrup remains in Iniekets from twelve to twenly-fonr hours, and settles before straining. To make sugar it is boiled iiuefnlly over a sluw Are. To •.■leaii.se it, the white of one egg, and one gill of nii'li, are used for every .'111 lbs. or 40 lbs. of sugav. Some settlers mauufattiire a considerable nuantity of sugar every year, us uuich UB from UUO lbs, t j tiUU lbs. J THS", HUDSON. 29 pot, tin plates aud cups, knives, forks, and spoons. These, with shawls or o'.'orcoats, and india-rnbber capes to keep off the rain, the guides will carry, with gun, axe, and fishing-tackle. Sportsmen who expect to camp oui, some time, sliould take with them a light tent. The guides will fish, hunt, Avork, build " camps," and do all other necessary service, tor a moderate compensation and theu- food. It is proper here to lemark that the tourist should never enter this Avildeiiicss earlier than the middle of August. Theu the files and mos