->.

.bS^

t .<^^-

'^ >

fi.

EMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

■so

1^8 |Z5

i.i

!^ 1^ 12.0

mil

1.8

1.25

1.4

1.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

^ '#•

33 WEST MAIN SI REIT

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSBO

(716) (172-4503

^■

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHIVI/ICIVIH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian InstUute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / institut Canadian de microreproductions hfstoriquoh

KiH

Technical and Bibliographic Notas/Notas tachniquas at bibliographiquas

Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha bast
original copy availabia for filming. Faaturas of this
copy which may ba bibllographicaily unlqua,
>r«hich may altar any cf tha imagas in tha
raproduction, or which may significantly change
tha usual method of filming, are checked below.

Coloured covers/
Couverture dc: couieur

□ Covers damaged/
Couverture endommagia

n ^

Covers restored and/or laminated/
Couverture resteurto et/ou peilicuMe

□ Cover title missing/
l.e

titre de couverture manque

I I Coloured maps/

Cartes giographiquas an couieur

Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/
Encre de couieur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire)

I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/

Planches et/ou illustrations an couieur

Bound with other material/
RaiiA avac d'autres documents

Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion
along interior margin/

La reliure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la
distortion la long de la marge IntArieure

Blank leaves added during restoration may
appear within the text. Whenever possible, these
have been omittod from filming/
II se peut que certainas pages blanches ajoutias
lors d'utio restauration apparaissent dans la texte,
mais, iorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont
pas «t« fiimAos.

Additional comments:/
Commentaires supplAmantaires:

Various pagingi.

L'Institut a microfilm* la mailleur exemplaire
^it'li lui a AtA possible de se procurer. Les details
da cat exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du
point de vue bibliographiqua, qui peuvent modifier
une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exigsr une
modification dans la methods normale de fiimage
sont indiquAs ci-dessous.

□ Coloured pages/
Pages de couieur

□ Pages damaged/
Pages endommagtes

□ Pcges restored and/or laminated/
Pages restaurAas et/ou peliicuiies

y J Pages discoJcured, stained o^ foxed/
Pages dicolorAes, tachaties ou oiquies

I I -ages detached/

Pagjs ditachtes

Showthroughy
Transparence

Quality of prir

Qualit6 ihigale de I'impression

Includes supplementary materii
Comprend du metdriei supplAmentaire

Or^ly edition available/
Seule Edition disponible

rrit Showthrough/

I I Quality of print varies/

I j Includes supplementary material/

I — I Or^ly edition available/

Pages wholly or partially obscu.ed by errata
slips, tissues, eic, have been refilmed to
ensure the best possible image/
Les pages totalement ou pertiellement
obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une peluie,
etc., ont At* filmAes A nouveeu de fapon i
obtenir la mailleure image possible.

This iiem is ifiimed at the reduction retio checked below/

Ce document est film* au taux da reduction indiqu4 ci-dessous.

IPX

14X

18X

22X

26X

30X

12X ItX aOX 24X 2SX 32X

The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks
to the generosity of:

Harold Campbell Vaughan Memorial Library
Acadia University

L'exemplaire f iim6 f ut reproduit grflce A ia
g6n6ro8it6 de:

Harold Campbell Vaughan Memorial Library
Acadia Univenity

The images appearing here are the best quality
possible considering the condition and legibility
of the original copy ard in ke«jping with the
filming contract specifications.

Las images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec !e
plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et
de la netteti de I'exempSaire filmA, et en
conformity avec las conditions du contrat de
filmage.

Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed
beginning with the front cover and ending on
the lest page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, o/ the back cover when appropriate. All
other original copies are filmed beginning on the
first page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, und ending on the last page with a printed
or illustrated impression.

Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en
papier est imprimie sont filmAs en commenpant
par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la
derniftre page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second
plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires
originaux sont film6s en commen^ant par la
premidre page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par
la dernidre page qui comporte une telle
empreinte.

The last recorded frame on each micro'lche
shall contain the symbol —*• (meaning "CON-
TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning 'END"),
whichever applies.

Un des symboles suivants appara?tra sur la
dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le
cas: le symbols — ► signifis "A SUIVRE". lo
symbole V signifie "FIN".

Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at
different reduction ratios. Those too large to be
entirely included in one exposure are filmed
beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to
right and top to hottom, as many frames as
required. The following diagrams illustrate the
method:

Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre
film/is d des taux de reduction diffirents.
Lorsquo le document est trop grand pour dtre
reproduit en ua seul clich6, il est film6 A partir
de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche A droite,
et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre
d'Images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes s'jivants
illustrent la m6thode.

1 2 3

.4S4,u

NI'.W YOHK VIHTUK, YuKLVluN id C9

S'7

THE HUDSON,

FBOM

THE WILDERNESS TO THE SEA.

BENSON J. LOSSING.

«1& ^tn i„n^«b .„b m. Mnutxnikm. from i^ip^ b^ tbe ^uifeor.

LONDON:
VIRTUE & CO., 26. IVY LANE.

NEW YORK: VIRTUe' AND YORSTON.

1868.

PREFACE.

HE pen and pencil sketches of the Hudson River
and its associations contained in this Volume,
were made by the writer a few years ago, and
were published in a series of numbers of the
London Art- Journal (for which they were origi-
nally prepared) during the years 18(50 and 1861. They
have been revised by the writer for publication in the
present form, changes in persons and things requiring
such revision.

It is impossible to give in pictures so necessarily small as are
those which illustrate this Volume, an adequate idea of the beauty
and grandeur of the scenery of the Hudson River ; so, in the
choice of subjects, the judgment was governed more by considera-
tions of utility tlian of mere artistic taste. Only such objects have
been dclmeated and described as bore relations to the history
traditions, and business life of the river here celebrated, whose
course, from the Wilderness to the Sea, measures a distance
ot lull three hundred miles.

The reader will bear in mind that when the present tense is
used, allusion is made to the beginning of the year 1866, at which
time the revision of these sketches was made.

B. J. L.

PouOHKEBrsiE, N.Y., March, 18(j(j.

^\S3

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Initial Lefter-Tlic Cardinal Flower
Mooseheud

A Lodge in the Wilderness... ... ...

Emjuette River

Tenants of the Upper Hudson Forests'

Camp Helena

Sabattis

Hend.-ick Spring \[ ' '

Swa-.np Travel

Ca'.lin Lake '

First Clearing on the Hudson ... ."
First Saw-Mill on the Hudson

Elephant Island

Lumber Dam and Sluice ...
Initial Letter-Tlie Wayside Fountain
Rapids at the Head of Harris's Lake
SandfordLake

The Iron Dam

Adirondack Village

Departure for Tahawus ' '" ['

First Bridge over the Hudson
Bark Cabin at Calamity Pond ... ,,,
Hendersons Monument ... '"
Fah in the Opalescent Hiver ...

Climbing Tahawus

Spring on the Peak of Taliawas!.
Hospice on Uie Peak of Tahawus
Initial Letter-A Sap Trough

The Loon

LakeColden

Outlet of Henderson Lake ... " '

Ti-ees on Boulders

Adirondack, or Indian Pass...

Henderson's Lake

Outoftlie Wilderness... ...

Moose Horns '

Outlet of Paradox Lake .'."

Isohi Bella

Stumij-Machine ... ... '"'

View at Warrensburg ..

Confluence of tlie Hudson and Scarroii '

iort William Henry Hotel

Liitial Letter-Cavern at Glen's Foils' ['

Falls at Luzerne

Masque Alonge ... ." ',"

I'AOE

and

7
9
. 10
12
. 13
. 14
. 15
16
17
18
19
19
21
22
23
25
26
28
29
30
31
33
34
35
36
40
41
43
43
44
45
46
49
50
51
52
54
55
66
67
69
60
61

LuwnieLake.'

Confluence of the Hudson aii'd Sacandaga
Kah-che-bon-eook, or Jesups Great Falls
The Hudson near the Queensbury Line

The Great Boom

Glen's Falls ... ...

Below the Bridge at Glen's Falls

Baker's Falls

Ground-plan of Fort Edward

The Jenny M'Crea Tree ... ...

Buhn-of-Uiiciid Tree ... ... '"

View at Fort Edward

"Cob-Money" ... .[[ "] "

Fori Miller Kapids... ..". ...

Initial Letter-Canal Bri'dge'kndBoat

Canal Bridge across tlie Hudson above the
Saratoga Dam

Confluence of the Hudson and Batten'-Kiii
Di-on-on-deh-o-wa, or Great Falls of the

Batten-Kill

The Reidesel House ... ... ...

Cellar of Reidesel House

Kapids of the Fish Creek, at 'sc'huyl'eirill'e

The Schuyler Mansion

Scene of Burgoyne's Surrender ...

Gates's Head-quarters

Rope Ferry

Burgoyne's Encampment (from" a "prin't
published in London, in 1779) ..

House in which General Eraser died

Eraser's Burial-place

Neilson's House, Bemis's Heights
Room occupied by Major Ackland
Rehcs from the Battle Field

Den-ick Swarf's House at Stillwater

Viaduct of the Vermont Central Railway"
Watcrford anl Lansingburgh Bridge

View at Cohoes Fulls

Lock at State Dam, Troy

Vanderheyden House ...

Rensselaer and .Saratoga'lla'i'lway Bridge "
View of Troy from Mount Ida '
United Stat»s Arsenal at VVatervliet".".'
Schuyler House at the Flats
Van Rensselaer Manor House ... [

PASS

. 62

. 63

. 65

. 66

. 70

. 73

84
8.1

86
87
87
88
90
93
94
96

100

103

104

loa
1U7
108
110
112
113
114
115
116
117
119

I'AOK

Van Rensselaer Arms 121

Old Dutch C'LuroU in Albany 12-'

Street View in Ancient Albany 124

Viindcrheydcii Palace 12.")

Fort Frederick 127

Oencral Scliiiylcr's J.Tan.sior. in Albany ... 129

Staircase in Schuyler's Munsiiin I'M

The Slate Capitol laii

Canal Hasin at Albany I'M

The Dudley Observatory 1:57

Greenbi.sh KaiKvay Station IWl

View near the Overslajjh l-)2

Coxsakie Ml

Fishing Station— Stnrjreon, Shad, Dass ... 14.5

View from the Promenade, Hudson 147

Athens, from the Hudson Iron Works ... 14>S

View at Kalz-KiU Lauding 149

Entrance to the Katzbergs 1.51

Kip Van Winkle's Cabin 1.5S

Mountain House, from the Road 1.5rt

View from South Jloinitain l-^n

Kaiers-Kill Falls 1H2

The Fawn's Leap I<i4

Scene at the Katci-s-Kill, near Palensvillo 10.5

Old Clermont 107

Clermont 163

View at Dc Koven's Bay 170

The Clermont 170

Livingston's Mansion at Tivoli 171

Mouth of Esopus t^reek, Saugerties 172

St. Stoiihen's College 17.^

Montt'oniery Place 174

The Kidzberss from Montgomery rtace ... 17-5

Rokeby 170

Bcckman's House 177

Ellerslie , 178

View from Wilderclift 179

Kingston 1,><2

Rondout Creek 184

Placentia l!*«

Pouphkeepsic, from Lewisburg 187

Van Kleek House 189

The Highlands, from Poughkeeiisie 190

Locust Grove 191

Milton Ferrj" and Horse-Boat 192

New Hamburg Tunnel 19:<

The Arbor VitsE 194

Marlborough, from the Lime-Kilns 19.5

Mouth of Wappingi's Creek 190

Washington's Head-quarters at Newburgh 199

Inteiior of Washington's Hcad-cinartcrs ... 200

Lifc-Gnard Monument 201

Newburgh Bay 202

Fishkill Landing and Newburgh 203

Idlewild from the Brook 204

In the Glen at Idle wild 20.5

Upper Entrance to the Highlands 207

At the Foot of the Storm King

" The Powell " off the Stonn King Valley

Scene off the Storm King Valley

Highland Kutrancc to Newburgh Bay ...
Northeni View from the Stonu King
.Soiitheru View from the .Storm King

Kidd's Plug Cliff

Crow's Nest

Cadet's Monument

Cold Spring, from the CJemetery

West Point, fnnti the Cemetery

Fort Putnam, from the We.st

View from Fort Putnam

Lieutenant-Colonel WoimI's Jfonument ...

View from the Siege Battery

Tlie Great Chain

We8t«?ru View, from Roe's Hotel

The Parade

Kosciuszko's Monument

Dade's Connnand's Monument

Kosciuszko's Garden

View fro.n Buttery Knox

The Heverly House

The Stairc ise of the' Robinsons' House ...

The Indian Falls

View South from Dutilh's

Indian Brook

View from Rossiter'i 'lanslon

AVest Point Foundr)'

Undercliff

Ruins of Batterj' on Constitution Island ...

View at Garrison's ^

Cozzen.s's

Church of the Holy Innocents

The Road to Cozzcns's Dock

Buttermilk Falls

Upper Cascales, Buttermilk Falls

Beverly Dock

Lower Entrance to the Highlands, from

Peek's Kill

Falls in l-ort Montgomery Creek

Scene in Fort Montgomery Creek

Lake Sinnipink

Anthony's Nose and the Sugar Loaf, from

the Ice Deixlt

Tunnel at Anthony's Nose

The Brockeii Kill

Rattlesnake

Tininel at Flat Point

lona, from the Railway

Doiider Berg Point

The Peek's Kill

Skaters on Peek's Kill Bay

Winter Fishing

Fishermen, from the Old Lime-Kilns

Tomkins's Lime-Kilns and QuaiTy

Stony Point

PAOK

, 209
210
211
212
214
210
217
218
221
222
2'.'.'J
224
22.5
220
227
228
220
2.'?0
2:il
232
233
234
230
210
241
242
243
24.5
247
218
2.50
2.51
2.52
253
2-54
2.55
2,50
257

200
261
202
26;!

20,5
200
268
209
270
271
273
27.5
276
279
280
281
282

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Vll

PA(»K

Stony Point Ligluliouse and Fop-Hell ... ^•?:!
Verplanck's roiiit, froiu Stony I'oii't

Linhtlioiise 2A")

Glassy Point ami Torn J!cmiituin 2."^rt

Smith's House on TreiLson Hill 288

Meeting-place of Anc'ie and ArnoliI 2ii2

Sleiirli Killing on lUe Hudson 290

C'ldton Aiiuednct ut Sinjr Sing 2i'7

State Prison at Sing Sing 299

State Prisoners 30O

C'rotoii Point, from Sing Sing 304

Hoekliinil, or Slaughterer's Landing 305

Hoeklaml Lake 30tl

Mouth of the C'roton -W

Croton Dain 309

Ventilators 310

Hijrh Bridge over the Croton 311

Van Corllandt Manor House 312

View from Priekly Pear Hill 31rt

The Porpoise 317

General Ward's sransion 318

Ancient Dutch Church 320

Sleepy Hollow Bridge 321

Ir\ing"8 Grave 324

Philipsc's Mill-Bam 327

Philipse Castle "^rt

Distant View at Tanytown J29

View on the Po-can-te-co from Irving

Park 330

Jlonument r.t Tarrjlown 331

Washington's Head-quarters at Tappan ... 336

/ ndre's Pen and Ink .Sketch 333

Andre's Monuniont 3.>9

Paulding Manor 340

Sunnyside 342

Ir\-ing's Study 'M3

The Brook at Sunnyside 346

The Pond, or " Mediterranean Sea " ... .347
Wolfert's Hoost when Irving pmx'Iiased it 350

View at Irvington ii5l

Xevis 355

View at Dobhs's Ferry 3,56

View near Hastings 357

"Livingston Mansion 358

The Palisades 359

Philipse Manjr Hull 362

1 he " Half-Moon " 363

Font Hill 365

Mount St. Vincent Academy 366

Spyt den Duyvel Creek 367

The Century House 369

The High Bridge 3"2

The Harlem River, from the Morris House 373

The Morris Mansion 374

The Grange 37,1

View on Wasliington Heights 378

Jefferys Hook 379

PAGE

Asylum for the Deaf null Dumb 3S0

Audubon s Residence 383

View in Trinity Cemetery 3S3

Maidnittaiiville, from Claremont 386

Claremoiit 387

View on Bl'omlngdale Road 389

Asylum for the Insane 390

Kim Park in 1861 391

Orphan Asylum 394

Harkni Plains 395

View ill Central Park 3H«

The i'errace Bridge and Mall 399

A S(iuattcr Village 400

Provoost's Tonilj—.Tones's Woods 401

View near hell-(}ato 403

The Heekman Mansion 406

Turtle Hay and Blackwell's Island 407

The Reservoir, Fifth Avenue 408

Fifth Avenue Hotel, Madison Park 409

Worth's Monument 412

Union Park 415

Stiiyvesant Pear Tree 416

Stuyvesant's House 417

St. Mark's Church and Historical Society

House 418

Biole House, Cooper Institute, and Clinton

Hall 119

Washington's Residence as it ai)i)eared in

\850 421

Franklin Square 423

Broadway at St. Paul's 424

Soldiers' Monument in Trinity Churchyard 426
Seals of New Aiuiterdam and New York. . . 427
Dutch Mansion ana Cottage in New Am-
sterdam 423

The Bowling Green and F'-'t George in 17^3 429

The Bowling Green in 1861 431

The Battery and Castle Garde.i 432

Old Federal Hall , 433

Hudson River Steamers leaving New York 134

View near Nya^k 436

View from Fort Lee 4.'!3

Bull's Ferry 440

Duelling Ground, Weehawk 448

View at the Elysiaii Fields 4,50

Stevens's Floating Battei-y 451

Jersey City and Cunaitl Dock 4.53

Brooklyn FeiTy and Heights 454

Navy Yai-d, Brooklyn 4.55

Sylvan Water, Greenwood 4.56

Governor's and Bedloe's Islands 457

The Narrows, from Quarantine 458

Fort Lafayette 4.59

Fort Hamilton .160

Surf Bathing, Coney Island 461

Sandy Hook, from the Ship Channel .„ 462
Sandy Hook, from the Lighthouses 463

f . 1

THE HUDSON,

FROM THE WILDERNESS TO THE SEA.

CHAPTER I.

IS proposed to iircsciit, in a scries of sketelies
mth pen and pencil, pictures of the Hud-
son River, from its birth among tlie
mountains to its marriage with the ocean.
It is by ftir tlie most interesting river in
America, considering the beauty and mag-
nificence of its scenery, its natural, political,
and social history, the agricultural and
mineral treasures of its vicinage, the com-
mercial wealth hourly floating upon it.s
bosom, and the relations of its geography
and topography to some of the most im-
portant events in the history of the Western hemisphere.

High upon the walls of the governor's room in the New York City
Hall IS a dingy painting of a broad-headed, short-haired, sparsely-bearded
man, w.'tii an enormous ruffle about his neck, r:nd bearing the impress
of an intellectual, courtly gentleman of the days of King James the i;rst
of England. By whom it was painted nobody k..ows, but conjecture
shrewdly guesses that it .ras delineated by the hand of l>.,ul Vm
Someren, the skilful Flemish artist who painted the portraits of many
persons of distinction in Amsterdam and London, in the reign or Januw
and died in the British capital four years before that monarch. Wo are

THE HUDSON.

well assured that it is the portrait of an eminent navigator, who, in that
remarkable year in the history of England and America, one thousand six
hundred and seven, met "certaine worshippeful merchants of London,"
in the parlour of a son of Sir Thomas Gresham, in Bishopsgate Street,
and bargained concerning a proposed voyage in search of a north-east
passage to India, between the icy and rock-bound coasts of Nova Zembla
and Spitzbergon.

That navigator was Henry Hudson, a friend of Captain John Smith, a
man of science and liberal views, and a pupil, perhaps, of Drake, or
Frobishor, or Grenville, in the seaman's art. On May-day morning he
knelt in tue church of St. Echclburga, and partook of the Sacrament ; and
soon afterward he left the Thames for the circumpolar waters. During
two voyages he battled the ice-pack manfully off the North Cape, but with-
out success : boreal frosts were too intense for the brine, and cast impene-
trable ico-barricrs across the eastern pathway of the sea. His employers
praised the navigator's skill and courage, but, losing fj'.ith in the scheme,
the undcrtaaing was abandoned. Hudson went to Holland with a stout
heart ; and the Dutch East India Company, then sending their uncouth
argosies to every sea, gladly employed "the bold Englishman, the expert
pilot, and fiiraous navigator," of whose fame they had heard so much.

At the middle of March, )G09, Hendrick, as the Dutch called him,
sailed from Amsterdam in a yacht of ninety tons, named the Ifalf-Moon,
manned with a choice crow, and turned his prow, once more, toward
Nova Zembla. Again ice, and fogs, and fieice tempests, disputed his
passage, and he steered westward, passed Cape Farewell, and, on the 2nd
of July, maro soundings upon Ihc banks of Newfoundland. He sailed
along the coast to the fine harbour of Charleston, in South Carolina, in
search of a north-west passage " below Virginia," spoken of by his friend
Captain Smith. Disappointed, he turned northward, discovered Delaware
Bay, and on the 3rd of September anchored near Sandy Hook. On the
11th he passed through the Narrows into the present bay of New York,
and from his anchorage beheld, with joy, wonder, and hope, the waters of
the noble Mahicannituck, or Mohegan Eiver, flowing from the high blue
hills on the north. Toward evening the following day he entered tlie
broad stream, ai I with a full persuasion, on account of tidal currents,

that the river upon which he was home flowed from ocean to ocean, he
rejoiced in the dream of being the leader to the long-sought Cathay,
liut when the magnificent highlands, ftfty miles from the sea, were passed,
and the stream narrowed and the Avater freshened, hope failed him, Uut
the indescribable beauty of the virgin land through which lie was
voyaging, filled his heart and mind with exquisite pleasure ; and as
deputations of dusky men came from the courts of the forest sachems to
visit him, in wonder and awe, he seemed transformed into some majestic
and mysterious hero of the old sagas of the North.

The yacht anchored near the shore where Albany now stands, but u
boat's crew, accompanied by Hudson, went on, and beheld the waters of
the Mohawk foaming among the rocks at Cohoes. Then back to New
York Bay the navigator sailed ; and after a parting salutation with the
chiefs of the Manhattans at the mouth of the river, and taking formal
possession of the country in the name of the government of Holland, he
departed for Europe, to tell of the glorious region, filled with fur-bearing
animals, beneath the parallels of the North Virginia Charter. He landed
in England, but sent his log-book, charts, and a full account of his
voyage to his employers at Amsterdam. King James, jealous because of
the advantages which the Dutch might derive from these discoveries, kept
Hudson a long time in England ; but the Hollanders had all necessary
information, and very soon ships of the company and of private adventurers
were anchored in the Avaters of the Mahicannituck, and receiving the
wealth of the forests from the Avild men who inhabited them. Tlu
Dutchmen and the Indians became friends, close-bound by the cohesion
of trade. The river y/as named Mauritius, in honour of the Stadtholder
of the Nelherlands, and the seed of a great empire avus planted there.

The English, in honour of their countryman Avho discovered it, called
it Hudson's River, and to the present time that title has been maintained;
but not Avithout continual rivalry witli that of North River, given it by
the early Dutch settlers after the discovery of the Delaware, which was
named South lliver. It is now as often called Noi'.h Iliver as Hudson in
the common transactions of trade, names of corporations, &c, ; but these,
with Americans, being convertible titles, produce no confusion.

For one hundred and fifty years after its discovery, the Hudson, aboA-e

THE HUDSON.

Albany, was little known to Avhite men, excepting hunters and trappers,
and a few isolated settlers ; and the knowledge of its sources among lofty
alpine ranges is one of the revelations made to the present century, and
even to the present generation. And now very few, excepting the
hunters of that region, have personal knowledge of the beauty and wild
grandeur of lake, and forest, and mountain, out of which spring the
fountains of the river wo are about to describe. To these fountains and
their forest courses I made a pilgrimage toward the close of the summer
of 1859, accompanied by Mrs. Lossing and Mr S. M. Bucldngham, an
American gentleman, formerly engaged in mercantile business in Man-
chester, England, and who has travelled extensively in the East.

Our little company, composed of the minimum in the old prescription
for a dinner-party — not more than the Muses nor less than the Graces —
left our homes, in the pleasant rural city of Poughkeepsic, on the Hudson,
for the wilderncsss of northern New York, by a route which we arc
satisfied, by experience and observation, to be the best for the tourist or
sportsman bound for the head Avaters of that river, or the high plateau
northward and westward of them, where lie in solitary beauty a multitude
of lakes filled with delicious fish, and embosomed in primeval forests
abounding witii deer and other game. We travellcil by railway about
one hundred and fifty miles to Whitehall, a small village in a rocky
gorge, where Wood Creek leaps in cascades into the head of Lake Cham-
plaiu. There we tarried until the following morning, and at ten o'clock
embarked upon a steamboat for Port Kent — ouv point of departure for the
wild iuterior, fur down the lake on its western border. The day was
fine, and the shores of the lake, clustered with historical associations,
presented a series of beautiful pictures ; for they wero rich with forest
verdure, the harvests of a fruitful seed-time, and thrifty villages and
faiTuhouscs. Behind these, on the cast, arose the lofty ranges of the
Green Mountains, in Vermont ; and ou the Avest were the Adirondacks of
New York, whither avo were journeying, their clustering peaks, distant
and sliiidowy, bathed in the fiolden light of a summer afternoon.

Lake Champlain is deep and narrow, and one hundred and forty mile
in length. It received its present name from its discoverer, the eminent
French navigator, Samuel Champlain Avho Avas upon its Avaters the same

THE HUDSON.

year "when Hudson sailed up the river which bears his name. Chaniplain
came from the north, and Hudson from tl o south ; and they penetrated
the "wilderness to points within a hundred miles of each other. Long
before, the Indians had given it the significant title of Can-i-a-de-ri Gua-
run-te, the Door of the Country. The appropriateness of this name will
bo illustrated hereafter.

It was evening "when "wo arrived at Port Kent. We remained until
morning "with a friend (Winslow C. Watson, Esq., a descendant of
Governor Winslow, who came to Ncav England in the Matjftowey), whose
personal explorations and general knowledge of the region wo were

about to visit, enabled him to give

us iUior'

matiou of much value in our

subsctiuent course. With himself and family wc visited the walled banks
of the Great Au Sable, near Keescville, and stood with wonder and awe
at the bottom of a terrific gorge in sandstone, rent by an carthc^uake's
power, and a foaming riv'er rushing at our feet. The gorge, for more
than a mile, is from thii'ty to forty feet in width, and over one hundred
in depth. This was our first experience of the wild scenery of the north.
The tourist should never pass it unnoticed.

Our direct route from Keescville lay along the picturesque valley of tho
Great Au Sable lliver, a stream broken along its entire course into cascades,
draining about seven hundred squai-e miles of mountain country, and
falling four thousand six hundred feet in its passage from its springs to
Lake Champlain, a distance of only about forty miles. We made a detour
of a few miles at Keescville for a special purpose, entered the valley at
twilight, and passed along the margin of tho rushing waters of the Au
Sable six miles to the Forks, where we remained until morning. Tho
day dawned gloomilj*, and for four hours wc rode over the mountains
toward the Sarauac Eiver in a drenching rain, for which we were too
well prepared to experience any inconvenience. At Franklin Falls, on
the Saranae, in the midst of the wildest mountain scenery, where a few
years before a forest village had been destroyed by fire, "wo dined upon
trout and venison, the common food of the wilderness, and then rode on
toward the Lower Sarauac Lake, at the foot of which we were destined to
leave roads, and horses, and industrial pursuits behind, and live upon tho
solitary lake and river, and in the almost unbroken woods.

THE HUDSON.

The clouds were scattered early in the afternoon, but lay in heavy
masses upon the summits of the deep hluc mountains, and deprived us of
the pleasure to be derived from distant views in the amphitheatre of
everlasting hills through which we were joumeying. Our road was over
a high rolling country, fertile, and in process of rapid clearing. The log-
houses of the settlers, and the cabins of the charcoal burners, were
frequently seen ; and in a beautiful valley, watered by a branch of the
Saranac, we passed through a pleasant village called Bloomingdale.
Toward evening we reached the sluggish outlet of the Saranac Lakes,
and at a little before sunset our postilion reined up at liaker's Inn, two
miles from the Lower Lake, and fifty-one from Port Kent. To the lover
and student of nature, the artist and the philosopher, the country through
which wo had passed, and to which only brief allusion may here be made,
is among the most inviting spots upon the globe, for magnificent and
picturesque scenery, mineral weidth, and geological wonders, abound on
every side.

At Baker's Inn every comfort for a reasonable man was found. There
Avo piocured guides, boats, and provisions for the wilderness; and at a
little pas-t noon on the following day we were fairly beyond the sounds of
the setth ments, upon a placid lake studded with islands, the sun shining
in unclouded splendour, and the blue peaks of distant mountains looming
above the dense forests that lay in glocmy grandeur between us and their
rugged acclivities.

Our party now consisted of five, two guides having been added to it.
One of them was a son of Mr. Baker, the other a pure-blooded Penobscot
Indian from the slate of Uaine. Each had a light boat — so light that he
might carry it upon his shoulders at portages, or the intervals between
the navigable portions of streams or lakes. In one of these was borne
our luggage, provisions, and Mr. Buckingham, and in the other
Mrs. Lossing and myself.

The Saranac Lakes are three in number, and lie on the south-eastein
borders of Franklin County, north of Mount Seward. They are known
as the Upper, Round, and Lower. The latter, over Avhich we first
voyaged, is six miles in length. From its head we passed along a winding
and narrow river, fringed with rushes, lilies, and moose-head plants,

THE HUDSON.

almost to the central or Round Lake, where we made a portage of a few
rods, and dined beneath a towering pine-tree. "While there, two deer-
hounds, whose voices we had heard in the forest a few minutes before,
came dashing up, drip!)ing with the lake water through which they had
been swimming, and, after snuflSng the scent of our food wistfully for
a moment, disappeared as suddenly. We crossed Round Lake, three
and a half miles, and went up o narrow river about a mile, to the fulls

A LOllfili I.N TirK WILDKRSESS.

at the outlet of the Upper Saranac. Here, twelve miles from our
embarkation, was a place of entertainment for tourists and sportsmen, in
the midst of a small clearing. A portage of an eighth of a mile, over
which the boats and luggage were carried upon a waggon, brought us to
the foot of the Upper Lake. On this dark, wild sheet of water, thirteen
miles in length, wo embarked toward the close of the day, and just before
sunset reacheii the lodge of Corey, a hunter and guide well known in all
that region. It stood near the gravelly shore of a beautiful bay with a
large island in its bosom, heavily wooded with evergreens. It was
Saturday evening, and here, in this rude house of logs, where we had

THE HUDSON.

been pleasantly received by a modest and genteel young woman, we
resolved to spend the Sabbath. Ifor did we regret our resolution. "Wo
found good wilderness accommodations ; and at midnight the hunter came
with his dogs from a long tramp in the woods, bringing a fresh-killed
deer upon his shoulders.

Our first Sabbath in the wildcnicss was a delightful one. It was a
perfect summer-day, and all around us were freshness and beauty. Wo
were alone with God and His works, far away from the abodes of men ;
and Avhen at evening the stars came out one by one, they seemed to the
communing spirit like diamond lamps hung up in the dome of a great
cathedral, in which we had that day worshipped so purely and lovingly.
It is profitable, as Bryant says, to

" Go abroarl
Upon the paths of Nature, and, wlien all
Its voices whisper, and its silent things
Are breathing the deep bemity of the world,
Kneel at its ample altar."

Early on Monday morning we resumed our journey. We walked a
mile through the fresh woods to the upper of the three Spectacle Ponds,
on which we were to embark for the Raquette River and Long Lake.
Our boats and luggage were here carried upon a waggon for the last time ;
after that they were all borne upon the shoulders of the guides. Hero
we were joined by another guide, with liis boat, who was returning to his
home, near the head waters of the Hudson, toward which we were
journeying. The guides who were conducting us were to leave us at
Long Lake, and finding the one who had joined us intelligent and
obliging, and well acquainted with a portion of the region we were about
to explore, we engaged him for the remainder of our wilderness travel.

The Spectacle Ponds are beautiful sheets of water in the forest, lying
near each other, and connected by shallow streams, through which the
guides waded and dragged the boats. The outlet — a narrow, sinuous
stnnim, and then shallow, because of a drought that was prevailing in all
that northern country — is called " Stony Brook." After a course of
three and a half miles through wild and picturesque scenery, it empties
into the Ruquettc .'liver. All along its shores we saw fresh tracks of the

THE HUDSON.

deer, and "pon its banks the splendid Cardinal flower {Lobelia cardinalifi),
glowing like flame, was seen in many a nook.*

Our entrance into the Raquctte was so quiet and uncxpoctcd, thiit we

KAyLErrii rivkd.

were not aware of the change until we were fairly upon its broader
bosom. It is the most beautiful rivor in all that wild interior. Its

* This superb plant is found from July to October nlong the shores of llio lakes, rivers, luiil rivulets,
anil in swamps, all over northern New York. It is perennial, anil is borne upon an erect stem, from two
to tluee feet in heif;ht. The leaves are long anil slender, with along, tapering base. The flowers are
large and verj- showy. Corolla bright scarlet; the tube slender; segments of tlie lower lip oblong-
lanceolate ; filaments red; anthers blue ; stigma thrce-Iobed, and at length protruded. It grows readily
when transplanted, even in dry soil, and is frequently seen in our gardens. A picture of this jjlant
tonus a portion of the design around tlie initial letter at the head of this chapter.

THE HUDSON.

shores are gcnernllj' loT;r, and extend back some distance in wet prairies,
upon wliich grow the soft maple, the aspen, alder, linden, and other
deciduous trees, interspersed with the hemlock and pine. These fringe
its borders, and standing in chimps upon the prairies, in the midst of rank
grass, give them the appearance of beautiful deer parks ; and they are
really so, for thore herds of deer do pasture. "We saw their fresh tracks
all along the shores, but they are now so continually hunted, that they
keep away from the waters whenever a strange sound falls upon their
cars. In the deep wilderness through which this dark and rapid river
flows, and around the neighbouring lakes, the stately moose yet lingers ;

.<:'.

TENANTS OF TUK ll'l'KK JILDSUN lOHKSia.

and u]ion St. liegis Lake, north of the Saranao group, two or three
families of the beaver — the most rare of all the tenants of these forests —
might then be found. The otter is somewhat abundant, but the panther
has become almost extinct ; the wolf is seldom seen, except in winter ;
and the black bear, quite abundant in the mountain ranges, was shy and
invisible to the summer tourist.

The chief source of the Raquctte is in Eaquette Lake, toward the
western part of Hamilton County. Around it the Indians, in the ancient
days, gathered on snow-shoes, in winter, to hunt the moose, then found

« <

tbt'io iu large droves ; aud from that circumstance they named it
" llaquet," the equivalent in I'reuch for snow-shoe in English.*

Seven miles from our entrance upon the Ra(j[uette, -.ve came to the
*' Falls," where the stream rushes in cascades over a rocky bed for a mile.
At the foot of the rapids we dined, and then walked a mile over u lofty,
thickly-wooded hill, to their heal, where we rc-cmbarked. Here our
guides first carried their boats, aud it was surprising to see with what
apparent case our Indian took the heaviest, weighing at lea^>t 1(50 lbs.,
aud with a dog-trot bore it the whole distance, stopping only once. The
boat rests upon a yoke, similar to those which Avater-carriers use in some
countries, fitted to the neck aud shoulders, aud it is thus borne with the
ease of the coracle.

At the head of the rapids we met acquaiutauccs — two clergymen in
hunting costume — and after exchauging salutations, we voyaged on six
miles, to the foot of Long Lake, through wliich the llaquette flows, like
the llhone through Lake Geneva. This was calh'd by the Indians Inca-
pah-chow, or Linden Sea, because the forests upon its shores abounded
with the bass-wood or American linden. As we entered that beautifrd
sheet of water, a scene of indescribable beauty opened upon the vision.
The sun was yet a little above tlie western hills, whose long .-^adows
lay across the wooded intervals. Uefore us was the lake, calm and trans-
lucent as a mirror, its entire length of thirteen miles in view, except
where broken by islands, the more distant appearing shadowy in the
purple light. The lofty mountaiu ranges on both sides stretched away
into the blue distance, and the slopes of one, and the peak of another,
were smoking like volcanoes, the timber being on fire. Wear us the
groves upon the headlaiuls, solitary trees, rich shrubbery, graceful rushes,
the clustering moose-head and water-lily, and the gorgeous cloud-pictures,
were perfectly reflected, and produced a scene such as the mortal eye
seldom beholds. The sun went dov.n, the vision faded ; aud, sweeping
around a long, marshy point, we drow our boats upon a pebbly shore at

* Tliis is the account of the origin of its name, given by tlie Ficncli Jesuits who first explored tliiit
region. Others say that its Inilian name, Ni-ha-nn-ua-tc, means a racket, or noise— noisy river, antl
spell it liacUt. But it is no more noisy than ite near neighbour, the Grass River which flows into the
St. Lawrence from the bosom of the same wilderness.

THE HUDSON.

twilight, at tliu foot of a pine-bluft", ami proceeded to erect a camp for the
night. Xo human habitation was near, excej^ting the bark cabin of
Bowen, the " Horm't of Long Lake," whoso history wc have not space to
record.

Our camp was soon constructed. The guides selected a pleasant spot
near the foot of a lofty pine, placed two crotchcd sticks perpendicularly
in the ground, about eight feet apart, laid a stout polo horizontally across

CAJIP HELEXA.

them, placed others against it in position li ke the rs of half a roof,

one end upon the ground, and covered the whole and both sides with the
boughs of the hemlock and pine, leaving front open. The ground
was then strewn with the delicate sprays of hemlock and balsam,
making a sweet and pleasant bed. A few feet from the front they built
a huge fire, and prepared supper, which consisted of broiled partridges

(that were shot on the shores of the llaquctte by one of the guides),
bread and butter, tea and maple sugar. We supped by the light of a
birch-bark torch, fastened to a tall stick. At the dose of a moonlight
evening, our fire burning brightly, we retired for the night, wrapped in
blanket shawls, oui' satchels and their contents serving for pillows, our
heads at the back part of the "camp," and our feet to the tire. The
guides lying near, kept the wood blazing throughout the night. "NVo
named the place Cam}) IFelena, in compliment to the lady of our partj*.

The morning dawned gloriously, and at an early hour we proceeded I'p
the Lica-jHth-choir, in the face of a stiff breeze, ten miles to the mouth of
a clear stream, that came down from one of the burning mountains which
we saw the evening before. A walk of half a mile brought us to quite
un extensive clearing, and Houghton's house of entertainment. There
we dismissed our Saranac guides, and despatched oii horseback the one
who had joined us on the Spectacle
Ponds to the home of Mitchell Sabattis,
a St. Francis Indian, eighteen miles
distant, to procure his services for
our tour to the head waters of the
Hudson. Sabattis was by far the
best man in all that region to lead
the traveller to the Hudson waters,
and the Adirondack Mountains, for
he had lived in that neighbourhood
from his youth, and was then between
thirty and forty years of age. He
was a grandson of Sabattis mentioned
in history, who, with Natanis, be-
friended Colonel Benedict Arnold,
while on his march through the wilderness from the Kennebeck to the
Chaudiere, in the autumn of 1775, to attack Quebec. Much to our
delight and relief, Sabattis returned with our messenger, for the demand
for good guides was so great, that we were fearful he might be absent on
duty with others.

Thick clouds came rolling over the mountains from the south at

sAUArris.

evening, presaging a storm, and the niglit I'ell intensely dark. The
burning hill above us presented a magnificent appearan-je in the gloom.
The fire was in broken points-' over a surface of half a mile, near the
summit, and tho appearance was like a city upon the lofty slope,
brilliantly illuminated. It was stid to see the fire sweeping away whole
acres ol fine timber. But such scenes arc frequent in that region, and
every buld and bhtckcned hill-top in the ranges is the record of a
conflagration.

We were detained at Houghton's the following day by a heavy rain.
On tho morning Jifter, the clouds drifted away early, and with our new
and excellent guides, Mitchell Sabattis and "William Preston, we went

down the lake eight miles,
and landed at a " carry" — as
the portages are called — on
its eastern shore, within half
a mile of Hendrick Spring
(so named in honour of Hen-
drick Hudson), the most re-
mote source of the extreme
western branch of our noble
river. To reach -water navig-
able witli our boats, we were
compelled to walk through
Ibrest and swamp about two
miles. That was our first
really fatiguing journey on
foot, for to facilicivto the pas-
sage, Avc each carried as mucli luggage as possible.

We found ]lendrick Spring in the edge of a swamp— cold, shidlow,
about five feet in diameter, shaded by trees, shrubbery, and vines, and
fringed with the delicate brake and fern. Its waters, rising within half
a mile of Long Lake, and upon the same summit level, flow southward to
tho Atlantic more than three hundred miles ; while those of the latter
flow to the St. Lawrence, and reach the same Atlantic a thousand miles
away to the far north-east. A few years ago, Professor G. W. liencdict

IIENUHICK S"RIXa.

(who was connected with the State Geological Svirrey) attempted to unite
those waters hy a ranal, for lumhoring purposes, hut the enterprise was
ahandoncd. TVe followed the ditch that ho had cut through the swamp
nearly half a mile, among tall raspbcny bushes, laden with delicious
fruit, and for another half mile we made our way over the most diflScult
ground imr.ginablc. Dead trees were lying in every direction, some
charred, others prone with black ragged roots, and .all entangled in
shrubbery and vines. Through this labyrinth our guides carried their

8MA.MP TUAVJSI..

boats, i.ud wo quite heavy packs, but all wore compelled to rest every
few minutes, for Uw sun wiis shining hotly upon us. Wo were nearly
an liour iravolling that half mile. Thoroughly wearied, we entered one
of the boats at the first navigable point on Spring Brook, that flows from
the ]iendri(k source, and rowed leisurely down to Fountain Lake, while

our guides returuHfli for the remainder of the luggage and provisions.
The passage of that portage consumed four hours.

Fountain Lake is the first collection of the waters of the west branch
of the Hudson. It is about two miles in circumference, with higlily
picturesque shores. It empties into Catlin Lake through a shallow,
stony outlet. From both of these we had fine views of the nefr Suntanoni
Mountains, and the more distant ranges of Mount Seward, on the east.
At the foot of Fountain Lake is another " carry " of a mile. A few rods
down its outlet, whero we crossed, we found the remains of a dam and

C.Vn.l.N LAlvE.

sluice, erected by riofcssor Benedict, to raise the waters so as to flow
through his canal into Long Lake, and for another purpose, which Avill
be explained presently. The sun went down while wc were cros?ing this
portage, and finding a good place for a camp on the margin of a cold
mountain stream in the deep forest, wc concluded to remain there during
the night. Our guides soon constructed a shelter with an inverted boat,
poles, and boughs, and wc all slop' soundly, after a day of excessive toil.
In the morning wo embarked upon the beautiful Catlin Lake, and
rowed to its outlet — three miles. After walking a few rods over

THE HUDSON.

boulders, while our guides dragged the boats thr-zUgh a narroAV channel
between them, we re-crabarked upon Narrow Lake, and passed through
it and Lilypad Pond — a mile and a half — to another "carry" of three-
fourths of a mile, which brought us to the junction of the Hudson and
Fishing Erook. This was a dreary region, and yet highly picturesque.
It was now about noon. Sabattis informed us that, a little way up the
Fishing Brook, were a clearing and a saw-mill — the first on the Hudson.

FIRST CLKAHINIi ON TUK JIl'DSON

Wo walked about half a mile through the woods to sec thoui. Emerging
from the forest, wo came to a field filled with boulders and blackened
.•itumps, and, from the summit of a hill, wo overlooked an extensive
rolling valley, heavily timbered, stretching westward t', the Windfall
Mountains, and at our feet were the Clearing and the Saw mill. The
latter stood at the head of a deep rocky gorge, down which great logs are
sent at high water. The clearing was too recent to allow much fruit of
tillage, but preparations were made for farming, in the erection of a good
frame dwelling and outhouses. The head waters of this consid(>rablo
tributary of the Upper Hudson is Pickwaket I'ond, four miles above the
mill.

THE HUDSON.

A short distance below the confluence of the Hudson and Fishing
Brook, wc entered Rich's Lake, an irregular sheet of water, about two
miles and a half In length, with surroundings more picturesque, in some

FIRST SAM'-MILL ON THK HUDSON.

respects, than any wc had visited. From its southern shore Goodcnow
^lountain rises to an altitude of about filteen hundred feet, crowned by a
rocky knob. Near the foot of the lake is a wooded peninsula, whose low
isthmus, being covered at high water, leaven it an island. It is called
Elephant Island, because of the singular resemblauco of some of the lime-

THE HUDSON.

stone formation that composes its bold shore to portions of that animal.
The whole rock is perforated into singularly-formed caves. This, and

KLKl'HA.M' ISLAM).

another sin'"lar shore a few miles below, were tlic only deposits of lime-
stone that we saw in all thi.t region.

At the outlet of Ilich's Lake were the ruins of v. dam and lumber

LU.MliEll DAM A>D SLUICE,

j'luice, similar in construction and intended use to that of Professor
Benedict at Fountain Lake. The object of such, structures, which occur

OQ the "Upper Hudsou, is to gather the logs that float from above, and
then, by letting out the accumulated waters by the sluice, giA'e a flood to
the shallow, rocky outlets, sufficient to carry them all into the next lake
below, where the process is repeated. These logs of pine, hemlock,
cedar, and spruce, arc cut upon the borders of the streams, marked on
the ends by a single bl-^w with a hammer, on the face of which is the
monogram of the owner, and then cast into the waters to be gathered and
claimed perhaps at the gi'oat boom near Glen's Falls, a hundred miles
below. We shall again refer to this process of collecting lumber from
the mountains.

li!

CHAPTER II.

^N the old settlement of Pendleton, in the town of
Ncweomb, Essex County, we spent our second
Sabbath. That settlement is between the
head of liioh's Lake and the foot of Harris's
Lake, a distance of five or six miles along their
southern shores. It derives its name from
Judge Nathaniel Pendleton, who, about fifty
years ago, mado a clearing there, and built a
dam, and grist, and saw-mill at the foot of Ilich's
Lake, where the lumber dam and sluice, before men-
tioned, were afterwards made. Here was the home of
Sabattis, our Indian guide, who owned two hundred and
forty acres of land, with good improvements. His wife was
a fair German woman, the mother of several childi-en, unmistakably
marked with Indian blood.

It was Friday night when we arrived at the thrifty Pendleton settle-
ment, and we resolved to spend the Sabbath there. "Wo found excellent
accommodation at the farmhouse of Daniel Bissell, and, giving Preston a
furlough for two days to visit his latcly-manicd wife at his home, nine
miles distant, we all went in a single boat the next day, manned by
Sabattis alone, to visit Harris's Lake, and the confluence of its outlet
with the Adirondack branch of the Hudson, three miles below Bissell's.
That lake is a beautiful sheet of water, and along the dark, sluggish
river, above the rapids at its head, we saw the cardinal flower upon the
banks, and the rich moose-head * in the water, in great abundance.

* Tliis, ill Iho books, is calloil Pickeicl Wcoil {I'onicdcria conlata of LimijEUs), but the guides call it
moose-Iiead. The*stein ia stout and cyliiidrioal, and bears a spear-shaped leaf, Bomewhat conlate at the
base. Tlie flowers, wliioh appear in July and August, arc composed of dense spikes, of a rich blue
colour. A picture of Uie moose-head is secu iu the water beneath the initial letter at the head of
Chapter I.

THE HUDSON.

The rapids at the head of Harris's Lake arc very picturesque. Look-
ing up from them, Goodenow Mountain is seen in the distance, and still
more remote are glimpses of the Windfall range. We passed the rapids
upon boulders, and then voyaged down to the confluence of the two
streams just mentioned. From a rough rocky bluff a mile below that
point, we obtained a distant view of three of the higher peaks of the
Adirondacks— Tahawus or Mount Marcy, Moimt Golden, and Mount
M'Intyre. Wc returned at evening beneath a canopy of magnificent
clouds ; and that night was made strangely luminous by one of the most

KAl lua AT TUB UEAD OF HABBIS'S LAKB.

Splendid displays of the Aurora Borealis ever seen upon ^the contincut.
It Avas observed as far south as Chirlostou, in South Carolina.

Sabattis is an active Methodisi> and at his request (their minister not
having arrived) Mr. Buckingham read the beautiful liturgy of the Church
of England on Sunday morning to a congregation of thirty or forty people,
in the school-house on our guide's farm. In the afternoon we attended
a prayer-meeting at the same place ; and early the next morning, while
a storm of wind and heavy mist was sweeping over the country, started
with our two guides, in a lumber waggon, for the Adirondack Mountains.
We now left our boats, in which and on foot we had travelled, from the

THE HUDSON.

lower Saranac to Hams' s Lake, more than seventy miles. It was a
tedious journey of twenty-six miles, most of the way over a "corduroy"
road — a causeway of logs. On the way wc passed the confluence of Lake
Delia with the Adirondack branch of the Hudson, reached M'Intyre's Inn
(Tahawus House, at the foot of Sandford Lake) toward noon, and at two
o'clock were at the little deserted village at the Adirondack Iron Works,
between Sandford and Henderson Lakes. We passed near the margin of
the former a large portion of the way. It is a beautiful body of water,
nine miles long, with several little islands. From the road along its

SANDFORD LAKE.

shores we had a tine view of the three great mountain peaks just
mentioned, and of the Wall-face Mountain at the Indian Puss. At the
house of Mr. Hunter, the only inhabitant of the deserted village, we
dined, and then prepared to ascend the Great Tahawus, or Sky-piercer.

The little deserted village of Adirondack, or M'Intyre, nestled in a
rocky valley upon the Upper Hudson, at the foot of the principal motm-
tain barrier which rises between its sources and those of the Au Sable,
and in the bosom of an almost unbroken forest, appeared cheerful to us
weary wanderers, although smoke was to be seen from only a solitary

THE HUDSON.

chimney. The hamlet — consisting of sixteen dwolling-houses, furnaces,
and other edifices, and a building with a cupola, used for a school and
public worship — was the offspring of enterprise and capital, which many
years before had combined to develop the mineral wealth of that region.
That wealth was still there, and almost untouched — for enterprise and
capital, compelled to contend with geographical and topographical
impediments, have abandoned their unprofitable application of labour,
and left the rich iron ores, apparently exhaustless in quantity, to bo
quarried and transformed in the not far-off future.

The ores of that vicinity had never been revealed to the eye of civilised
man until the year 1826, when David Henderson, a young Scotchman, of
Jersey City, opposite New York, while standing near the iron-works of
his fother-in-law, Archibald M'Intyrc, at North Elba, in Essex County,
was approached by a St. Francis Indian, known in all that region as a
brave and skilful liunter — honest, intelligent, and, like all his race,
taciturn. The Indian took from beneath his blanket a piece of iron ore,
and handed it to Henderson, saying, " You want to see 'um ore ? Me
fine plenty — all same." When asked where it came from, ho pointed
toward the south-west, and said, " Me hunt beaver all 'lone, and fine
'um where water run over iron-dam." An exploring party was
immediately formed, and followed the Indian into the deep forest. They
slept that night at the base of the towering cliff of the Indian Pass.
The next day they reached the head of a beautiful lake, -which they
named " Henderson," and followed its outlet to the site of Adirondack
village. There, in a deep-shaded valley, they beheld with wonder the
"iron dam," or dyke of iron ore, stretched across a stream, which was
afterward found to be one of the main branches of the Upper Hudson.
They at once explored the vicinity, and discovered that this dyke was
connected with vast deposits of ore, which formed rocky ledges on the
sides of the narrow valley, and presented beds of metal adequate, appa-
rently, to the supply of the world's demand for centuries. It is believed
that the revealer of this wealth was Peter Sabattis, the father of our
Indian guide.

The explorers perceived that all around that vast deposit of wealth in
the earth was an abundant supply of hard wood, and other necessary

THE HUDSON.

ingrpflicnts for the manufacture of iron ; and, not withstand in p; it was
thirty miles from any liighway on land or -water, ■with an uninterrupted
sweep of forest between, and more than a hundred miles from any market,
the entire mineral ref>ion — romprisins; more than a Avliole township — was
purchased, and imparations were soon made to develop its resources. A
partnership was formed between Archibald IM'Intyre, Archibald liobert-

adack
the

was

was
the

liev

our

Ith in
[ssary

TICK IRON DAM.

son, and David Hcnicrson, all related by marriage ; and_^witirslij;ht aid
fi'ora the State, they constructed a road through the wilderness, from the
Scarron [Schroonj Valley, near Lake Cliamplain, to the foot of Sandford
Lake, halfway between the head of which and the beautiful Henderson
Lake was the ** iron dam." There a settlement was commenced in 1834.
A timber dam was constructed upon the iron one, to increase the fall of
water, and an experiineutal furnace was built. Hare and most valuable

];

THE HUDSON.

iron was produced, equal to any from the best Swedish furnaces ; and it
was afterward found to be capable of being wrought into stocl equal to
the best imported from England,

The proprietors procured an act of incorporation, under tlic title of the
" Adirondack Iron and Steel Company," with a capital, at first, of
$1,000,000 (£200,000), afterward increased to l||;3,000,000 (£600,000),
and constiiicted another furnace, a forge, stamping-mill, saw and grisc
mill, macliine-shops, powder-house, dwellings, boarding-house, school-
house, baras, sheds, and kilns for the manufacture of charcoal. At the
foot of Sandford Lake, eleven miles south from Adirondack village, they
also commenced a settlement, and named it Tahawus, where they erected

ADIBOKi)ACK VILLAGK.

a dam seventeen luindrcd feet in length, a saw-mill, Avarehouses, dwell-
ings for workmen, &c. And in 1854 they completed a blast furaaco near
the upper village, at the head of Sandford Lake, at an expense of
$43,000 (£8, GOO), capable of producing fourteen tons of iron a-day.
They also built six heavy ; oats upon Sandford Lake, for the transportation
of freight, and roadb i.f an expense of $10,000 (£2,000). Altogether
the proprietors spent nearly half a million of dollars, or £100,000,

[Meanwhile the project of a railway from Saratoga to Sackett's Harbour,
on Lake Ontario, to bisect the gi'cat wilderness, was conceived, A
company was formed, and forty miles of the road were put under contract,
and actually graded. It would pass within a few miles of the Adirondack

THE HUDSON.

"Works, uucl it 'ivaa estimatucl that, with a connecting branch road, the
iron might be conveyed to Albany for two dollars a ton, and compete
profitably with other iron in the market. A plank road was also
projected from Adirondack village to Preston Ponds, and down the Cold
Eiver to the llaquette, at the foot of Long Lake.

But the labour on the road *va8 suspended, the iron interest of the
United States became depressed, the Adirondack Works were rendered
not only unprofitable, but the source of h^avy losses to the owners, and
for five years their fires had been extinguished. In August, I806, heavy
rains in the mountains sent roaring floods down the ravines, and the
Hudson, only a brook when we Avcre there, was swelled to a mighty
river. An upper dam at Adirondack gave way, and a ncAV channel for
the stream Avas cut, and the great dam at Tahawxis, with the saw-mill,
was demolished by the rushing waters. All was left a desolation. Over
scores of acres at the head and foot of Sandford Lake (ovcriicrccl when
the dam was constructed) we saw wliitc skeletons of trees which had been
killed by the flood, standing thickly, and heightening the dreary aspect
of the scene. The workmen had all departed from Adirondack, and only
llobert Hunter and his family, who Iiad charge of the property, remained.
The original proprietors were all dead, and the property, intiinsically
valuable but immediately unproductive, was in the possession of their
respective families. But the projected railway "will yet be constructed,
because it is needful for the development and use of that immense mineral
and timber region, and again that forest village will be vivified, and the
echoes of the deep breathings of its furnaces will be heard in the neigh-
bouring mountains.

At Mr. Hunter's we prepared for the rougher travel on *'oot through
the mountain forests to Tahawus. ten miles distant. Here we may
properly instnict the expectant tourist in this region in regard to such
preparation. Every arrangement should be as simple as possible. A
man needs only a stout flannel hunting shii't, coarse and trustworthy
trousers, woollen stockings, large heaAy boots well saturated with a com-
position of beeswax and tallow, a soft felt hat or a cap, and strong buck-
skin gloves. A woman needs a stout flannel dress, over shortened
crinoline, of short dimensions, with loops and buttons to adjust its length ;

THE HUDtiON.

a hood ami cape of the same materialsj, made so as to cu' elop the head
and bust, and leave the arms free, woollen stockings, stout calfskin boots
that cover the legs to the knee, well saturated with beeswax and tallow,
and an india-rubber satchel for necessary toilet materials. Provisions,
also, should be simple. The hunters live chiefly on bread or crackers.

I>£;-AUTl.'B£ I'OB TAUAWUS.

and maple sugar. The usiud preparation is a sufficient stock of Boston
crackers, pilot-bread, or couimou loaf-bread, butter, tea or coffee, pepper
i!nd salt, an ample (^Uiuititj' of maple sugar, ••• and some salted pork, to use
in frying or lioiling fish, birds, and game. The utensils for cooking are
.«, short-handled frying-pan, a broad and shallow tin pan, tin tea or coft'ee-

* The luii'd, or S':;;iu' Miiiilo (Acir snrrhiiriiiiiiit), ubuuii(l» in all imi'ls iif the Stute of Now Vork. It
i-< II b'Miiitiriit Ireo, ofioii foiiiul fruiu filtj to I'i^jhty tVot in height, uud the trunk from two to three feet
ill iliuiiieler. l-'rom the sup, vihich Hows iibiiiuluiitly i.. "he fprinff, ileliiioiis Bjiup and excellent Kii^fur
are made. In the Upiier Hudson ro>;ion, the sup i.i imunred by making a small incision witli an axe, or
n hole with an aupur, into the body of the tree, into wliieh a small tnbe or giiltcr is fastened. Imoiu
Ihence the sap Hows, and is caught in rough troughs, dngont of small logs. [See the i.iilial letter at the
head of Chapter III.] It is cullected into tubs, and boiled in ealdrou kettles. The syrup remains in
Iniekets from twelve to twenly-fonr hours, and settles before straining. To make sugar it is boiled
iiuefnlly over a sluw Are. To •.■leaii.se it, the white of one egg, and one gill of nii'li, are used for every
.'111 lbs. or 40 lbs. of sugav. Some settlers mauufattiire a considerable nuantity of sugar every year, us
uuich UB from UUO lbs, t j tiUU lbs.

THS", HUDSON.

pot, tin plates aud cups, knives, forks, and spoons. These, with shawls
or o'.'orcoats, and india-rnbber capes to keep off the rain, the guides will
carry, with gun, axe, and fishing-tackle. Sportsmen who expect to camp
oui, some time, sliould take with them a light tent. The guides will fish,
hunt, Avork, build " camps," and do all other necessary service, tor a
moderate compensation and theu- food. It is proper here to lemark that
the tourist should never enter this Avildeiiicss earlier than the middle of
August. Theu the files and mos<i[uitoes, the intolerable pests of the
I'orests, are rapidly disappearing, and fine weather may be expected. The
sportsman must go in June or July for trout, and in October for deer.

Well prepared Avith all necessaries excepting flannel over-shirts, we set
out from Adii-ondack on the afternoon of the 30th of August, our guides

FlltttT Uli'.UUK OVEU TUK UUUBOy.

with tlieir packs loading the way. The morniug had been misty, but the
atmosphere was then clear and cool. AVo crossed the Hudsi <n three-fourths
of a mile below llendorson Lake, upon a rude bridge, mu'^o our Avay
through a clearing tan,.,led with tall raspberry shrubs full of fruit, for
nearly half a mile, and th^ni entered the deep and solemn forest, composed
of birch, maple, cedar, hemlock, spruce, and tall pine trees. Our way
was over a Ic el for three-fourths of a mile, to the outlet of Calamity
Pond. AVc crossed it at a beautiful cascade, and then commenced ascend-

'•I
,u

*4l

30-

THE HUDSON.

ing by a sinuous mountain path, across which many a huge tree had been
cast by the wind. It was a -Nvcary journey of almost four miles (notwith-
standing it lay along the track of a lane cut through the forest a few
years ago for a special purpose, of which we shall presently speak), for in
many places the soil Avas hidden by boulders covered with thick moss,
over which we were compelled to climb. Towards sunset wu reached a
pleasant little lake, embosomed in the dense forest, its low wet margin
fringed with brilliant yellow Howers, beautiful in form but without
perfume. At the head of that little lake, where the inlet comes flowing

liJiBK CABIK AT CALAMITV VUM>.

sluggishly from a dark ravine scooped from the mountain slope, we built
a bark cabin, iiud encamped for the night.

That tiny lake is called Calamity Pond, in commemoration of a ^a(l
circumstance that occurred near the spot where we erected our cabin, in
September, 18-15. Mr. Heu'lerson, of the Adirondack Iron Company,
alieady mentioned, was thero with his son and other attendants. Near
tbo margin of the inlet is a flat rock. On this, as he landed from a scow,
Mr. Henderson attempted to lay his pistol, holding the muzzle in his
hand. It discharged, and the contents entering his body, wounded him
mortally : he lived only half-an-hour, A rude biet- was constructed of

THE HUDSON.

boughs, on which his l Aj was carried to Adirondack village. It was
takeu down Sandford Lake in a boat to Tahawus, and from thence again
carried on a bier through the wiUlerness, fifteen mik^s to the western
termination of the road from Scarron valley, then in process of construc-
tion. From thence it was conveyed to his home at Jersey City, and a few
years afterward his family erected an elegant monument upon the rock
whore he lost his life. It is of the light Xcw Jersey sandstone, eight feet
in height, and bears the following inscription : — " This monument was
erected by filial affection to the memory of Dwrn Hendkrsox, who lost

liis lift- on this spot, 3rd September, 18l.>." Beneath tlie ins-ription, in
liigh relief, is a clialice, book, and anchor.

The lane through the woods just mentioned was ciit for the p- rposo of
allowing the transportation of this monument upon a sledge in winter,
drawn by oxen. All the way the road was made passable by packing
the snow between the boulders, and in this labour several days were con-
sumed. The monument weighs a ton.

Wl\ilo I'reston and myself were building the bark cabin, iu u mininer
similar to the bush one already described, and Mrs. Lossiug was prepaiing
place upon the clean grass near the fire for our supper, Mr. Buckingham
and Sabnttis went out upon the lake on a rou{,\ i-aft, and caught over two

THE HUDSON.

dozen trout. Upon these we supped and breakfasted. The night was
cold, and at early dawn wc found the hoar-frost lying upon every leaf and
blade around us. Beautiful, indeed, was that daAvning of the last day of
summer. From the south-west came a gentle breeze, bearing upon its
wings light vapoui", that flecked the whole sky, and became roseate in line
when the sun touched with pui-ple light the summit of the hills westward
of us. These towered in grandeur more than a thousand feet above the
surface of the lake, from which, in the kindling morning light, went up,
in myriads of spiral t'ireads, a mi'-t, softly as a spirit, and melted in the
first sunbeam.

At eight o'clock we resumed our journey over a much rougher way than
we had yet travelled, for there was nothing but a dim and obstructed
hunter's trail to follow. This we pursued nearly two miles, when wo
struck the outlet of Lake Golden, at its confluence Avith tlie Opalescent
Eiver, that comes nishing down in continuous rapids and cascades from
the foot of Tahawus. The lake was only a few rods distant. Intending
to visit it on our return, we contented ourselves Avith brief glimpses of it
through the trees, and of tall Mount Colden, or Mount ^NE'Martin, that
rises in magnificence from its eastern shore.

The drought that stiU. prevailed over nortliern New York and Xew
England had so diminished the volume of the Opalescent llivcn-, that
we walked more than four miles in the bed of the stream upon boulders
which fill it. We crossed it a hundred times or more, picking ouv way,
and sometimes compelled to go into the woods in passing a cascade. The
stream is broken into falls and swift rapids the whole distance that we
followed it, and, when full, it must present a grand spectacle. At one
plp'^o the river had assumed tlie bed of a displaced trap dyke, by whicli
the rock has been intersected. The Avails arc perpendicular, and only a
few feet apart — so near that the branches of the trees on the summits
interlace. Through this the Avater rushes for several rods, and then
leaps into a dark chasm, full fifty feet perpendicular, and emerges
among a mass of immense boulders. The Indians called this ctiscado
She-ffwi-en-dawhce, or the Hanging Spear. A short distance above is a
Avild rapid, Avhich they called Kas-hng-shaiU, or Broken Water.

The stones in this river vary in size, from tiny pebbles to boulders

THE HUDSON.

3S 01 11

n, that

■

lI New

r, that

Duldcvs

V way,

Tho
hat Avc

At ono

'fl

which

'"^^^B

ouly a

iraniits

'^fH^B

I then

■■

ncrgcs

ascado

/c is a

''1b

uhlors

of a thousand tons ; the smaller ones made smooth by rolling, the larger

ones, yet angular and massive, persistently defying the rushing torrent

in its maddest career. They arc composed chiefly of tho beautiful

labradorite, or opalescent feldspar, which form the great mass of the

Aganus-ehion, or Black Mountain

range, as the Indians called this

Adirondack group, because of the

dark aspect which their sombre

cedars, and spruce, and cliffs present

at a distance. The bed of the stream

is full of that exquipitely beautiful

mineral. We saw it glittering in

splendour, in pebbles and large

boulders, when tho sunlight fell full

upon the shallow water. A rich blue

is the predominant colour, some-
times mingled with a brilliant
green. Gold and bronze-coloured
specimens have been discovered, and,
occasionally, a complet ly iridoscent
piece may bo found. It is to the
abundance of these stones that tho
river is indebted for its beautiful
name. It is one of the main sources
of the Hudson, and falls into Sand-
ford Lake, a few miles below
Adirondack village.

We followed the Opalescent Hiver
to the foot of tho Peak of Tahawus,
on the borders of tho high valley

which separates that mountain from Blount Golden, at an elevation nine
hundred feet above tho highest peaks of the Cattskill range on the Lower
Hudson. There tho water is very cold, the forest trees arc somewhat
stunted and thickly planted, and tho solitude complete. The silence was
almost oppressive. Game-birds and beasts of tho chase are there almost

F.U.I. IN THK OPALESCENT BIVEU.

THE HUDSON.

unknown. The wild cat and wolveiiue alone prowl over that lofty valley,
where rises one of the chief fountains of the Hudson, and we heard the
voice of no living creature excepting the hoarse croak of the raven.

It was noon when we reached this point of departure for the summit of
Tahawus. "We had hcen four hours travelling six miles, and yet in that
pure mountain air we felt very little fatigue. There we found an
excellent hark *'camp," and traces of recent occupation. Among them

CLTMDINO TAIIAWl S.

was part of a metropolitan newspaper, and light ashes. "We dined upon
bread and butter and maple sugar, in 'a sunny spot in front of the cabin,
and then commenced the ascent, leaving our provisions and other things
at the camp, where wo intended to repose for the night. The journey
upward was two miles, at an angle of forty-five degrees to the base of the
rocky pinnacle. Wc had no path to follow. The guides "blazed" the
larger trees (striking off chips with their axes), that they might with
more ease find their way back to the camp. Almost the entire surface

THE HUDSON.

was covered with boulders, shrouded in the most beautiful alpine mosses.
From among these shot up dwarfing pines and spruces, which diminished
in height at every step. Through their thick horizontal branches it was
difficult to pass. Here and there among the rocks was a free spot, where
the bright trifoliolate oxalis, or wood-sorrel, flouiished, and the shrub of
the wild currant, and gooseberry, and the tree-cranberry appeared. At
length wo reached the foot of the open rocky pinnacle, where only thick
mosses, lichens, a few alpine plants, and little groves of dwarfed balsam,
are seen. The latter trees, not more than five feet in height, aro^ most of
them, centenarians. Their stems, not larger than a strong man's wrist,
exhibited, when cut, over one hun-
dred concentric rings, each of which
indicates the growth of a year. Our
journey now became still more diffi-
cult, at the same time more interest-
ing, for, as we emerged from the
forest, thq magnificent panorama of
mountains that lay around us burst
upon the vision. Along steep rocky
slopes and ledges, and around and
beneath huge stones a thousand tons
in weight, some of them apparently
poised, as if ready for a sweep down
the mountain, we made our way
cautiously, having at times no other
support than the strong moss, and
occasionally a gnarled shrub that
sprung from the infrequent fissures.
where the dwarf balsams grow. Upon one of these, within a hundred
feet of the summit, »ve found a spring of very cold water, and near it
quite thick ice. This spring is one of the remote sources of the Hudson.
It bubbles from the base of a huge mass of loose rocks (which, like all
the other portions of the peak, are composed of the beautiful labrado-
rite), and sends down a little stream into the Opalescent llivcr, from
whose bed we had just ascended. Mr. Buckingham had now gained

SPBINO ON THE I'EAK OF TAHAWLS.

We rested upon small terraces.

3(5

THE HUDSON.

the summit, and waved his hat, in token of triumph, und a few minutes
later we were at his side, forgetful, in the exhilaration of the moment,
of every fatigue and danger that we had encountered. Indeed it was a
triumph for us all, for few persons have ever attempted the ascent of that
mountain, lying in a deep wilderness, hard to penetrate, the nearest point
of even a bridle path, on the side of om* approach, being ten miles from
the base of its peak. Especially difficult is it for the feet of woman to
reach the lofty summit of the Shj-piercer — almost six thousand feet
above the sea — for her skirts form gi'cat impediments. Mrs. Lossing, we
wcro afterwards informed by the oldest hunter and guide in all that

HOSPICE ON THE PEAK OF TAUAAVUB.

region (John Cheney), is only the third woman who has ever accomplished
the difficult feat.

The summit of Tahawus is bare rock, about four hundred feet in length
and one hundred in breadth, with an elevation of ten or twelve feet at
the south-western end, that may be compared to the heel of an upturned
boot, the remainder of the surface forming the sole. In a nook on the
southern side of this heel, was a small hut, made of loose stones gathered
fi'om the summit, and covered with moss. It was erected the previous
year by persons from New York, and had been occupied by others a fort-

THE HUDSON.

night before our visit. "Within the hut we found a piece of paper, on
which was written : — " This hospice, erected by a party from New Yoik,
August 19, 1858, is intended for the use and comfort of visitors to
Tahawus.— F. S. P.— M. C.—F. M. N." Under this was written :—
"This hospice was occupied over night of August 14, 1859, by A. G. C.
and T. K. D. Sun rose fourteen minutes to five." Under this : —
•* Tahawus House Registek, August 14, 1859, Alfred G. Compton, and
Theodore B.. Davis, New York. August 16, Charles Newman, Stamfoi-d,
Connecticut ; Charles Bedfield, Elizabeth Town, New York." To these
we added our own names, and those of the guides.

Our view from the summit of Tahawus will ever form one of the most
remarkable pictures in memory ; and yet it may not properly be called a
picture. It is a topographical map, exhibiting a surface diversified by
mountains, lakes, and valleys. The day was very pleasant, yet a cold
north-westerly wind was sweeping over the summit of the mountain. A
few clouds, sufficient to cast fine shadows upon the eartli, Avere floating
not far above us, and on the cast, when wc approached the summit at
three o'clock, an iridescent mist was slightly veiling .\ group of mountains,
from their tliick wooded bases in the valleys, to thci." bold rocky summits.
Our stand-point being the highest in all that region, Miere was nothing
to obstruct the view. To-tcar-loon-dah, or Hill ol Storms (Mount
Emmons), Ou-kor-lah, or Big Eye (Mount Seward), Wah-o-par-te-m'e, or
White-face Mountain, and the Giant of the Valley — all rose peerless above
the other hills around us, excepting Colden and M'Intyre, that stood
apparently within trumpet-call of Tahawus, as fitting companions, but
over whoso summits, likewise, we could look away to the dark forests of
Franklin and St. Lawrence Counties, in the far north-west. Northward
we could see the hills melting into the great St. Lawrence level, out of
which arose the Eoyal Mountain back of the city of Montreal. Eastward,
full sixty miles distant, lay the magnificent Green Mountains, that give
name to the state of Vermont, and through a depression of that range,
we saw distinctly the great Mount "Washington among the "White Hills
of New Hampshire, one huudied and fifty miles distant. Southward the
view was bounded by the higher peaks of the Cattskills, or Katzbergs,
and westwai-d by the mountain ranges in Hamilton and Herkimer

I ,,

I :■

THE HUDSON.

Counties. At our feet reposed the great wilderness of northern New
York, full a hundred miles in length, and eighty in breadth, lying in parts
of seven counties, and equal in area to several separate smaller States of
the Union. On every side bright lakes were gleaming, some nestling in
unbroken forests, and others with their shores sparsely dotted with clear-
ings, from which arose the smoke from the settler's cabin. "Wo couniud
twenty-seven lakes, including Champlain — the Indian Can-i-a-de-ri Gua-
run-te, or Door of the Country — which stretched along the eastern view
one hundred and forty miles, and at a distance of about fifty miles at the
nearest point. We could see the sails of water-craft like white specks
upon its bosom, and, with our telescope, could distinctly discern the
houses in Burlington, on the eastern shore of the lake.

From our point of view we could comprehend the emphatic significance
of the Indian idea of Lake Champlain — the Door of the Country. It fills
the bottom of an immense valley, that stretches southward between the
great mountain ranges of New York and New England, from the
St. Lawrence level toward the valley of the Hudson, from which it is
separated by a slightly elevated ridge.* To the fierce Huron of Canada,
who loved to make war upon the more southern Iroquois, this lake was a
wide open door for his passage. Through it many brave men, aborigines
and Europeans, have gone to the war-paths of New York and New
England, never to return.

Standing upon Tahawus, it required very little exercise of the imagi-
nation to behold the stately procession of historic men and events, passing
through that open door. First in dim shadows were the dusky warriors

* In the introduction to his published sermon, preached at Plymouth, in New England, in ths year
1621 (and the flrst ever preached there), the Rev. Bobert Cushman, speaking of tliat, country, saj-a :—
" So far as wc can find, it is an island, and near about the quantity of England, being cut out from the
mainland in America, us England is from the main of Euroiie, by a great arm of the sea [Hudson's
Biver], which entereth in forty degrees, and runneth up norih-west and by west, and goeth out, either
into the Soutli Sea [Pacific Ocean], or else into the Bay of Canada [the Gulf of St. Lawrence]." Tho
old divine waa nearly rij^ht in his conjecture that New England was an island. It is a peninsula,
connected to the main by a very narrow isthmus, the extremities of which are at the villages of
Whitehall, on Lake Champlain, and Fort Edward, on the Hudson, abtut twenty-flve miles apart, llie
lowest portion of that isthmus is not more tlian fifty feet above Lake <JhampIain, whose waters are only
ninety above the sea. This isthmus is made still narrower by the waters of Wood Creek, which flow
into Lake Champlain, and of Fort Edward Creek, which empty into the Hudson. These are navigable
for liglit canoes, at some seasons of the year, to within a mile and a-hnlf of each other. The canal,
wliich now connects the Hudson and Lake Champlain, really makes New England an island.

I the

! year

lys :—

)in the

idson's

either

The

insula,

Mies of

llie

only

hflow

igiible

canal,

THE HUDSON.

of tho uute-Coluiiibiau period, darting swiftly tlirough ia their bark
canoes, intent upon blood and plunder. Then came Clmmplain and his
men [1609], with guns and sabres, to aid tho Purons in contests with
the Adirondacks and other Iroquois at Crown Point and Ticonderoga.
Then came French and Indian allies, led by Marin [1745], passing
swiftly through that door, and sweeping with terrible force down the
Hudson valley to Saratoga, to smite the Dutch and English settlers there.
Again French and Indian warriors came, led by Montcalm, Dieskau, and
others [1755-1759], to drive the English from that door, and secure it
for the house of Bourbon. A little later came troops of several
nationalities, with Burgoyne at their head [1777], rushing through that
door with power, driving^ American republicans southward, like chaff
before the wind, and sweeping victoriously down the valley of tho Hudson
to Saratoga and beyond. And, lastly, came another British force, with
Sir George Prevost at their head [1814], to take possession of that door,
but were turned back at the northern threshold with discomfiture. In
the peaceful present that door stands wide open, and people of all nations
may pass through it unquestioned. But the Indian is seldom seen at tho
portal.

^A&&

^CHAPTER III.

I HE cold increased every moment as the sun declined,
and, after remaining on the summit of Tahawus
only an hour, we descended to the Opalescent
Eivcr, where we encamped for the night. To-
ward morning there was a rain-shower, and the
water came trickling upon us through the light
bark roof of our " camp." But the clouds broke
at Eunrisc, and, excepting a copious shower of
small hail, and one or two of light rain, wo had
pleasant weather the remainder of the day. We de-
scended the Opalescent in its rocky bed, as we went up,
and at noon dined on the margin of Lake ' Men, just
after a slight shower had passed by.

We wore now at an elevation of almost tnree thousand
feet above title water. In lakes Golden and Avalanche, which lie close
.to each other, there are no fishes. Only lizaixls and leeches occupy
their cold waters. All is silent and solitary there. The bald eagle
sweeps over them occasionally, or perches upon a lofty pine, but the
mournful voice of the Great Loon, or Diver ( Colymhis glacialis), heard
over all the waters of northern New York and Canada, never awakens
the echoes of these solitary lakes.* These waters lie in a high basin
between the Mount Golden and Mount M'Intyre ranges, and have
experienced great changes. Avalanche Lake, evidently once a part of
Lake Golden, is about eighty feet higher than the latter, and more than
two miles from it. They have been separated by, perhaps, a series of
avalanches, or mountain slides, which still occur in that region. From

* The wutor view iu the picture of the Loon is a scene ou Uurris'a Lake, with QooUenow Mountain
in the distance.

cir>

THE HUDSC:..

the top of Tahawus we saw the white glare of several, striping the sides
of mountain cones.

At three o'clock avo reached our camp at Calamity Pond, and just
before sunset emerged from the forest into the open fields near Adiron-
dack village, whei'e we regaled ourselves with the bountiful fruitage of
the raspberry shrub. At J>[r. Hunter's we found kind and generous
entertainment, and at an early hour the next morning we started for the
great Indian Pass, four miles distant.

Half a mile from Henderson Lake we crossed its outlet upon a pictu-
resque bridge, and following a causeway another half a mile through n

clearing, we penetrated the forest, and struck one of the chief branches
of the Upper Hudson, that comes from the rocky chasms of that Pass.
Our journey was much more difficult than to Tahawus. The under-
growth of the forest was more dense, and trees more frequently lay
athwart the dim trail. We crossed the stream several times, and, as we
ascended, the valley navroAved until we entered the rocky gorge between
the steep slopes of Mount M'Intyre and the cliffs of Wall-face Mountain.
There we encountered enormous masses of rocks, some worn by the
abrasion of the elements, some angular, some bare, and some covered
with moss, and many of them bearing large trees, whose roots, clasping

•I

THE HUDSON.

them on all sides, strike into the earth for isustenance. One of the
masses presented a singular appearance ; it is of cubic form, its summit
full thirty feet from its base, and upon it was quite a grove of hemlock
and cedar trees. Around and partly under this anu others lying loosely,
apparently kept from rolling by roots and vines, we were compelled to
clamber a long distance, wh^n we reached a point more than one hundred

.3Ss.-3=ii-rr-...

>_-i-t~4«a-- -.. ;

LAKE COJ-UEN.

feet above the bottom of the gorge, where wo could see the famous pass
in all its wild grandeur. Before us arose a pei-pendieular cliff, nearly
twelve hundred feet from base to summit, as raw in appearance as if cleft
only yesterday. Above us sloped M'Inryre, still more lofty than the
cliff of Wall-face, and in the gorge lay huge piles of rock, chaotic in
position, grand in dimensions, and awful in general aspect. They appear

THE HUDSON.

to have been ciist in there by some terrible convulsion not very remote.
Within the memory of Sabattis, this region has been shaken by an earth-
quake, and no doubt its power, and the lightning, and the frost, have
hurled these masses from that impending cliff. Through these the
waters of this branch of the Hudson, bubbling from a spring not far
distant (close by a fountain of the Au Sable), tind their way. Here the
head- waters of this river commingle in the Spring season, and when they
separate they find their way to the Atlantic Ocean, as we have observed,

Ol'TLKT OF IIENDEKSON LAKE.

at points a thoiusantl niik's apart. The margin of the Htroam is too rugged
and cavernous in tlio Pass for human footsteps to follow.

Just «it the lower entrance to the gorge, on the margin of the little
brook, wo dined, and tluii ntraced our stops to the village, stopping on
the way to view the dreary swamp at the head of Henderson Lake,
where tbe Hudson, flowing from the Pass, enters it. Water, and not fire,
has blasted the tn-os, and their erect stems and prostrate branches, white
and ghost-like in appearance, make a tangh-d ooveiing over many acres.

That night wo slept soundly again at Mr. Hunter's, and in the morn-
ing left in a waggon for the valley of the Scarron. During the past four
days we had travelled thirty miles on foot in the tangled forest, camped

ii
ft

;■ +

out two nights, and on some of nature's ■wildest and grandest lineaments.
These mountain ami lake districts, which form the wilderness of northern
New Yoi'k, give to the tourist most exquisite sensations, and the physical
system ajjpears to take in health at every pore. Invalids go in with
hardly strength enough to reach some quiet log-house in a clearing, and
come out with strong quick pulse and elastic muscles. Every year the
number of tourists and sportsmen who go there rapidly increases, and
women begin to find more pleasure and health in that wilderness than at
fashionable wateriug-places. No Avild country in the world can offer

\ii-

TBEKS ON BOVLUKHS.

more solid attractions to those who desiie to spend a few weeks of leisure
away from the haunts of men. Pure air and water, and game in
abundance, may there bo found, while in all that region not a A'enomous
reptile or poisonous plant msvybe seen, and the beasts of prey are too few
and shy to cause the least alarm to the most timid. The climate is
delightful, and there: are fertile valleys among those rugged hills that
will yet smile in beauty under the cultivator's hand. It has been called
by the uninformed the " Siberia of New York ;" it may 'uoro properly
be called the " Switzerland of the Tnitcd States."

Tho Avind came from among the mountains in fitful gusts, thick mists
were sweeping around the peaks and through the gorges, and there were
frequent dashes of rain, sometimes falling like showers of gold, in the
sunlight that gleamed through the broken clouds, on the morning when
we left Adirondack village. We had hired a strong waggon, with three
spring seats, and a team of experienced horses, to convey us from the
heart of the wilderness to the. Scarron valley, thirty miles distant, and
after breakfast we left the kind family of Mr. Hunter, accompanied by
Sabattis and Preston, who rode Avith us most of the way for ten miles, in

ADIUONDAC'K, OK INDIAN I'AbS.

the direction of their homes. Our driver was the oAVuer of the team — >i
careful, intelligent, good-natured man, who livc'l near Tahawus, at tho
foot of Santlford Lake. But in all our experience in travelling, we never
endured such u journey. The highway, for at least twenty-four of tho
thirty miles, is what is technically called cordnroi/—a sort of corrugated
f'tripe of logs ten feet Avide, laid through tho Avoods, and dignified Avith
the title of "The State road." It giA'cs to a waggon the jolting motion
of the " dyspeptic chair," and in that Avay Ave Avero ** exercised " all day
long, except Avhcn dining at tho Tahawus House, on some Avild pigeons

THE HUDSON.

shot by Sabattis on the way. That inn 'vras upon the road, near the site
of Tahawus village, at the foot of Sandfoid Lake, and was a half-way
house between Long Lake and Eoot's Inn in the Scarron valley, toward
which M'e were travelling. There we parted with our excellent guides,
after giving them a sincere assurance that we should recommend all
tourists and hunters, who may visit the head waters of the Hudson, to
procure their sen'ices, if possible.

About a mile on our way from the Tahawus House, we came to the
dwelling and farm of John Cheney, the oldest and most famous hunter

hendkrson's lakk.

and guide in all that region. He then seldom Avcnt far into the woods,
for he was beginning to feel the effects of age and u laborious life. We
called to pay our respects to one so widely known, and yet so isolated,
and were disappointed. He Avas away on a short hunting excursion, for
he loves the forest and the chr.se with all the enthusiasm of his young
manhood. He is a slightly-built man, about sixty years of age. He
was the guide for the scientific corps, who made a geological reconnoissance
of that region many years before, and for a (quarter of a century he had
there battled the elements and the beasts with a strong arm and unflinch-
ing will. Many of the tales of his experience are full of the wildest

1 ' '

1 ;
1

THE HUDSON.

romance, and we hoped to hear the narrative of sonic adventure from his
own lips.

Por many years John carried no other weapons than a huge jack-knife
and a pistol. One of the most stirring of his thousand adventures in the
woods is connected with the history of that pistol. It has been related
by an acquaintance of the wiiter, a man of rare genius, and who, for
many years, has been an inmate of an asylum for the insane, in a neigh-
bouring State. John Cheney was his guide more than twenty years
before our visit. The time of the adventure alluded to was winter, and
the snow lay four feet deep in the woods. John went out upon snow-
shoes, with his rifle and dogs. He wandered far from the settlement, and
made his bed at night in the deep snow. One morning ho arose to
examine his traps, near which he would lie encamped for weeks in
complete solitude. When hovering around one of them, he discovered a
fiimishcd wolf, who, unappalled by the hunter, retired only a few steps,
and then, turning round, stood watching his movements. "I ought, by
rights," said John, "to have Avaited for my two dogs, who could not have
been far off, but the cretur looked so sassy, standing tliere, that though I
had not a bullet to spare, I could nol help letting into him with my
rifle." John missed his aim, and the animal gave a spring, as he was in
the act of firing, ond turned instantly upon him before he could reload
his piece. So eff'ectivo was the unexpected attack of the wolf, that his
fore-paws were upon Cheney's snow-shoes before he could rally for the
fight. The forester became entangled in the deep drift, and sank upon
his back, keeping the wolf at bay only by striking at him with his
clubbed rifle. The stock of it was broken into piece?, in a few moments,
and it would have fared ill with the stark woodsman if the wolf, instead
of making at his enemy's throat when he had him thus at disadvantage,
had not, with blind fury, seized the barrel of the gun in his jaws. Still
the fight was unequal, as John, Jmlf buried in the snow, could make use
of but one of his hands- . He shouted to his dogs, but one of them only, a
young, untrained hound, made his appearance. Emerging from a thicket
he caught sight of his master, lying apparently at the mercy of the
ravenous beast, uttered a yell of fear, and fled howling to the woods
again. " Had I had one shot left," said Cheney, " I would have given

THK HUDSON.

it to that dog instead of dispatching the wolf with it." In the exaspe-
ration of the moment John might have extended his contempt to the
whole canine race, if a stauncher friend had not, at the moment, inter-
posed to vindicate their character for courage and fidelity. All this
had passed in a moment ; the wolf was still grinding the iron gun-barrel
in his teeth — he had even once wrenched it from the hand of the hunter
— when, dasliing like a thunderbolt between the combatants, the other
hound sprang over his master's body, and seized the wolf by the throat.
" There was no let go about that dog when he once took hold," said John.
" If the ban-el had been red hot the wolf couldn't have dropped it
quicker, and it would have done you good, I tell you, to see that old dog
drag the cretur's head down in the snow, while I, just at my leisure,
drove the ii'on into his skull. One good, fair blow, though, with a heavy
rifle barrel, on the back of the head, finished him. The fellow gave a
kind o' quiver, p+ietched out his hind legs, and then he was done for. I
had the rifle stocked afterwards, but she would never shoot straight since
that fight, so I got me this pistol, which, being light and handy, enables
me more conv<5nicntly to carry au axe upon m^ long tramps, and make
myself cemfortable in the woods."

Many a deer has John since killed with that pistol. "It is curious,"
said the narrator, " to see him draw it from the left pocket of his grey
shooting-jacket, and bring down a partridge. I have myself witnessed
several of his successful shots with this unpretending shooting-iron, and
once saw him knock the feathers from a wild duck at fifty yards."

Most of our journey toward the Scarron was quite easy for the horses,
for we wore descending the great Champlain slope. The roughr' ?s of the
road compelled us to allow the team to walk most of the ^ ly. The
country was exceedingly picturesque. For miles our track lay through
the solitary forest, its silence disturbed only by the sound of a mountain
brook, or the voices of the wind among the hills. The winding road was
clos;ely hemmed by trees and shrubs, and Bentinclcd by lofty pines, and
birches, and tamaracks, many of them dead, and ready to full at the touch
of the next strong wind. Miles apart were the rude cabins of the settlers,
until wo came out upon ahigli, rolling valley, surrounded by a magnificent
amphitheatre of hills. Through that valley, from a little lake toward

the sources of the Au Sable, flows the cold and rapid Boreas River, one
of the chief tributaries of the Upper Hudson. The view was now grand :
all around us stood the great hills, wooded to their summits, and over-
looking deep valleys, -whereiii the primeval forest had never been touched
by axe or fire ; and on the right, through tall trees, we had glimpses of
an irregular little lake, called Cheney Pond. For three or four miles
after passing the Boreas we went over a most dreary " clearing," dotted
with blackened stumps and boulders as thick as hail, a cold north-west
wind driving at our backs. In the midst of it is Wolf Pond, a dark

- •^s^m. ^^

(.IT or 'llli: MH.llKHNKSS.

water fringed with a tangled growth of alders, Bhrubs, and creepers, and
made doubly gloomy by lumdreds of dead trees, that shoot up from the
cliapparal.

This was the "darkness just before daylight," for wo soon struck a
branch of the Scarron, rushing in cascades through a rooky ravine, along
whose banks we found au excellent road. Tlie surrounding country was
verv rugged in appearance. The rocky hills liad been denuded by fire,
and everything in nature presented a strong contrast to the scene thai
burst upon the vision at sunset, when, from the brow of a hill, wo saw
the beautiful Scarron valley smiling before us. In n fow minutes -we

THE HUDSON.

crossed the Scarron River over a covered bridge, and found ourselves
fairly out of llie wilderness, at a new and spacious inn, kept hy Russell
Root, a small, active, and obliging man, well known all over that northern
country. His house was the point of departure and arrival for those who
take what may bo called the lower route to and from the hunting and
fishing grounds of the Tipper Hudson, and the group of lakes beyond.
Over his door a pair of enormous moose horns formed an appropriate sign-
board, for ho was both (luarter-master and commissary of sportsmen in

MOOSK IIORKS.

that region. At his house everything necessary for the woods and waters
might be obtained.

The Scarron, or Schroop River, is the eastern branch of the Hudson.
It rises in the heart of Essex County, and flowing southward into Warren
county, receiving in its course the waters of Paradox and Scarron, or
Schroon Lake, and a largo group of ponds, forms a confluence, near
Warrensburg, with the main waters of the Hudson, that come down from
the Adirondack region. The name of Schroon for this branch is fixed in
the popular mind, appears in books and on maps, and is heard upon every
lip. It is a corruption of Scarron, the name given to tlie lake by French
ofiicers, who were stationed at Fort St. Frederick, on Crown Point, at
the middle of the last century. In their rambles in the wilderness on the
western shore of Lake Champlaiu, they discovered a beautiful lake, and
named it in gallant homage to tlie memory of the widow of the poet
Scarron, who, as Madame de Maiiitenou, became the queen of Louis XIV.
of France. The nnme was afterwards appli(>d to the river, and the

THE HUDSON.

modern comipt orthography and pronunciation were unknown before the
present century, at the beginning of which settlements were first com-
menced in that region. In the face of legal documents, common speech,
and maps, we may rightfully call it Scarron ; for the antiquity and
respectability of an error are not valid excuses for perpetuating it.

From Root's we rode down the valley to the pleasant little village on
the western shore of Scarron Lake. AVe turned aside to visit the beautiful
Paradox Lake, nestled among Avooded hills a short distance from the river.
It is separated from Scarron Lake by a low alluvial drift, and is so nearly

OlU.liT 01' TAliAlJOX LAKK.

on a level with the river into which it cniptios, that when torrents from
tlie hills swell the waters of that stream, a current flows back into
Paradox Lake, making its outlet an /wkt for tlie time. From this circum-
stance it received its name. "We rode far up its high southern shore to
enjoy many fine views of the lake and its surroundings, and returning,
lunched in the shadows of trees at a rustic bridge that spans its outlet a
few rods below the lake.

Scarron Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, ten miles in length, and
about a mile in average M'idth. It is ninety miles north of Albany, and
lies partly in Essex and partly in Warren County. Its aspect is interest-

THE HUDSOy.

iug from uvery puiut of view. The gcutle slopes ou its westfra shore are
well cultiviiteil uml thickly inhabited, the result of sixty years' settlement,
but ou its eastern shore are precipitous aud rugged hills, which extend in
wild aud picturesque succession to Lake Champlaiu, iifteen or twenty
miles distant, la the bosom of these hills, and several hundred feet
iibove the Scarrou, lies Lake I'haraoh, a body of cold water surrounded
by dark mountains, and near it is a large cluster of ponds, all of which
iind a receiving reservoir iu »5carrou Lake, and make its outlet a large
stream.

In the lake directly iu fiont of Scarrou village is an elliptical island,

ISOLA Ii£I,L&.

containing about oue hundred acres. It was purchased a few yi'ur.s ago
by Colonel A. L. Ireland, a wealthy gentleman of iNew York, -who went
there in search of health, and who spent large gums of money in subduing
the savage features of the island, erecting a pleasant summer mansion
upon it, aud in changing the rough and forbidding aspect of the whole
domain into one of bi'auty and attractiveness. Ta^tj and labour hiul
Avrougbt wonderful changes there, and its appearance justified the title it
bore of Isula Delk; — the Indian Cuy-ua-noot. 'J he mansion was cruciform,

THE IIL'USON.

anil (Itlijjlitfully situatcil. In front of it were tustt-fully ornamontcil
grounds, with vistus tliroug;li the forest tree.-;, tliat atforded glimpses of
charming hdve, landscape, and distant mountain scenery. Within were
evidences of elegant refinement — a valuable librarj", statuary, bronzes,
and some rare paintings. Among other sketches was a picture of Hulo
Hall, in Lancashire, England — the ancestral dwelling of Colonel Ireland,
who is a lineal descendant of Sir John de Irehuul, a Norman baron who
accompanied William the Concjueror to England, was at the battle of
Hustings, and received from the monarch a largo domain, upon which he
built a castle. On the site of that casth , Hale Hall was erected by Sir
Gilbert Ireland, who was a member of parliament, and lord-lieutenant of
his county. Hale Hall remains in possession of the family.

We were conveyed to Isola Bella in a skiff, rt)\ved by two watermen,
in the face of a stiff breeze that ruffled the lake, and it was almost sunset
when wo returned to the village of iScarron Lake. It was Saturday
evening, and Ave remained at the village until Monday morning, and then
rode down the pleasant valley to Warrensburg, near the junction of the
Scarron and the west branch of the Hudson, a distance of almost thirty
miles. It was a very delightful ride, notwithstanding we were menaced
by a storm. Our road lay first along the cultivated western margin of
the lake, and tin Tice through a rolling valley, from Avhich we caught
occasional glimpses of the river, sometimes near and sometimes distant.
The journey occupied a greater portion of the day. We pass'xl two
quiet villages, named respectively Pottersvillo and Chcstci'. The latter,
the larger of the two, is at the outlet of Loon and Friendship Lakes —
good fishing places, a few miles distant. Both villages are points upon
the State road, from which sportsmen depart for the adjacent Avoods and
Avaters. An hour's ride from either place Avill put tliem Avithin the
borders of the great Avilderaess, and beyond the sounds of the settlements.

Warrensburg is situated partly upon a high plain and partly upon a
slope that stoops to a bend, of the Scavron, about two miles above its
confluence with the Avest branch of the Hudson. It Avas a vilhco of
about seven hundred inhabitants, in the midst of rugged mountain
scenery, the hills abounding with iron ore. As avo approached it Ave came
to a Avide plain, over a> hich lay — in greater perfection than any aa'c had

THE HUDSON.

yet seen — stump fences, -which arc peculiar to the Upper Huilson country.
They arc composed of the stumps of hirgc pine-trees, drawn from the soil
by machines made for the pui-pose, and they are so disposed in rows, their
roots interlocking, as to form an effectual barrier to the passage of any
animal on whose account fences are made. The stumps are full of sap
(turpentine), and wo were assured, with all the confidence of experience,
that these fences would last a tliousand years, the turpentine preserving
the woody fibre. One of the stump-macliines stood in a field near the
road. It was a simple derrick, with a large wooden screw hanging from
the apex, where its heavy matrix was fastened. In the lower end of the
screw was a large iron bolt, and at the upper end, or head, a strong lever

, K \r.<-3^'i

(j-ii

i'-jiAim>K.

was fastened. The derrick is placed over a stump, and heavy chains are
wound round and under the stump and over the iron bolt in the screw.
A horse attached to the lever work^ the screw in such a manner as to
draw the stump and its roots clean from the ground. The stump fences
formed quite a picturcs(juc feature in the landscape, and at a distance
have the appearance of masses of deer horns.

It was toward evening when we arrived at Warrensburg, but before
sunset we had strolled over the most interesti.^s; portions of the vilbge,
along the river and its immediate vicinity. Here, as elsewhere, the pre-
vailing drought had diminished the streams, and the Scarron, usually a

IT'T^T--"—'*'**-^

THE HUDSON.

wild, nishing river, from the village to its eonflucnco with the Hudson
proper, was a comparatively gentle creek, with many of the rocks in its
bed quite bare, and timber lodged among them. The buildings of a largT
manufactory of leather skirted one side of the rapids, and at their head
was a large dam and some mills. That region abounded with establish-
ments for making leather, the hemlock-tree, whose bark is used for
tanning, being very abundant upon the mountains.

We passed the night at Warrensburg, and early in the morning rode to
the confluence of the Scai'ron and Hudson rivers, in a charming little

VIKW AT WARBEXSnrRff.

valley which formed the Indian pass of Teo-ho-Kcn in the olden time,
between the Thunder's Nest and other higli hills. Tlic point where the
waters met was a lovely spot, shaded by elms and other spreading trees,
and forming a picture of beauty and repose in strong contrast with the
rugged hills around. On the north side of the valley rises the Thimder's
Nest (which appears in our little sketch), a lofty pile of rocks full eight
hundred feet in height ; and from the great bridge, three hundred feet
long, which spanned the Hudson just below the confluence, there was a
view of a fine amphitheatre of hills.

From Tahawup, at the foot of Sandforcl Lako, to tho confluence with
the ScaiTon, at "Warren sbuvg, a distance of about fifty miles by its course,
the Hudson flows most of tho way through an almost unbroken wilderness.
Tlirough that region an immense amount of timber is annually cast into
the stream, to be gathered by the owners at the great boom near Glen's
Falls. From Warnnsburg to Luzerne, at Jesup's Little Falls, the river
is equally iinintt resting, and these two sections we omitted in our explo-
rations, because thi'y promised very small returns for the time and labour
to be spent in visiting them. 80 at Warrensburg Ave loft tlie river again,

(■{)M'l.ri:NCK OF TIM': III Ii«OV AM) FOAItltOV.

and took a somewhat circuitous route to Luzerne, that we might travel n
good road. That route, by far the most interesting tor the tourist, leads
by the way of Caldwell, at the head of Lake (Jeorge, through a moun-
tainous and very picturesque countiy, sparsely dotted with neat farmhouses
in the intervals between the grand ohl hills. The road is planked, and
occasionally •. fountain by tho wayside sends out its clear stream from
rocks, or a mossy bank, into a rude reservoir, such as is seen delineated

in Vie picture at tho licail of Chapter II. While watering our horses at
ono of these, the ring of merry hiughter came up through the little valley
near, and a few moments afterward, we met a group of young people
enjoying the pleasures of a pic-nic.

At noon we reined up in front of tho Fort AVilliam Henry Hotel, at
tho head of l^ako George, where we dined, and then departed through thn
fuiest for Luzerne. That immense caravanscra for the entertain men*^ >><
summer visitors stands upon classic ground. It is upon tho site of id
Fort William Kenry, erected by General William Johnson in the autunvu

s. •skjte.tx ^^- ■'^a*'-

J-OUT WILLIAM IIK.NKV HOTEL.

of 1755, and named in honour of two of th'; Koyal Family of England.
At the same time tho general changed the name of the lake from that of
the Holy Sacrament, given it by Father Jogue, a French priest, who
reached the head of It on Corpus C/iri'-fi day, to George — not in simple
honour to his Majesty, then reigning mouiirch of England, but, as the
general said, "to assert his undoubted dominion lu-re." The Indians
called it, Cfiii-ai-de-ri-oif, or Tale of tlu; Lakt, it a])pearing as such
appendage to Lake Champlain.

From the broad colonnade of the hotel the eye takes in the lake and its
shores to the Narrov's, about fifteen miles, and includes a theatre of great
historic interest. Over those waters came the Hurons to fight the
^Mohawks, and during the Seven Years' war, when French dominion in
America was crushed by the united powers of England and her American
colonies, those hills often echoed the voice of the trumpet, the beat of the
drum, the roar of cannon, the crack of musketry, the savage yell, and the
shout of victorv. At the head of the lake, British and Gallic warriors
fought desperately, early in September, 1755; and history has recorded
the results of many battle-fields in that vicinity duriug the lust century,
before and after the colonists and the mother-country came to blows, after
a long and biltcr quarrel. At the head of Lake George, where another
fort had been erected near the ruins of VVilliam Henry, the republicans,
in the old War for Independence, had a military dep6t ; and until the
surrender of Sir John Jiurgoyno, at Saratoga, on the Hudson, in 1777,
that lake was a minor theatre of war, where the respective adherents of
the "Continental" and "Ministerial" parties came into frequent
collisions. Since then a profound peace has reigned over all that region,
and at the Fort William Henry House and its neighbours are gathered
every summer the wise and the wealthy, the noble, gay, and beautiful of
numy lands, seeking and finding health in recreation.

CH ATT Ell lY.

f-'^'^^^lKr'^ E started for Luzcnic after an early dinner,
crossing- on our -n-ay Iho " Frencli field,"
■\vlicrcon Dieskau disposed lii^ troops for
action. Wc tlien entered the woods, and
our route of eleven miles lay through a
highly picturesque country, partially cvdti-
vated, among the hills, and following the
old Indian war-path from the Sacandaga to
;■ , Lake George. As wc approached Luzerne,
the countiy spread into a high plain, as at
A\''arrenshurg, on the southern margin of
which, overlooked hy lofty hills, lies Luzerne
Lake. Wo passed it on our left, and then
went down quite a steep and winding way into the viUage, on the bank
of the Hudson, and found an excellent home at llockwell's spacious inn.
We have seldom seen a village more picturesquely situated than this. It
is about seventy miles from the Adirondack vilhige, and "on the borders of
the great wihl' mess, where game and fish abound, and for a quiet place
of summer resoil, can hardly be surpassed. It lies at the foot of a high
lilutf, down which ilows in cascades the outlet of Luzerne Lake, and leaps
i 'o the Ilmlson, which here nuikes a nuigniiicent sweep before rusliing,
in laiTOAV channel and foaming rapids between high rocky banks, to
rec ,c the equally turbulent waters of the Siicandagn, just below. That
place the Indians called Tio-sa-ron-da, the " erecting of the Waters."
Twenty years agf), there were several mills at the head of these falls ; a
flood swejit them away, and thc>y have never been rebtiilt.

The r(i])ids at Luzerne, which form a fall of about eighteen feet, bear
the name of Jesnp's Little Palis, to distinguish them from Jesup's Great

! i

THE HUDSON.

Fill b, five miles below, both being incliuled in patents granted to Ebenezer
Jesiip, who, with a family of Pairchilds, settled there before the Revolu-
tion, when Luzerne was called "NVestlield. These settlers espoused the
cause of the king, and because of their depredations upon their "Whig
neighbours, became very obnoxious. They held intercourse with the
loyal Scotch Highlanders, who were under the influence of the Johnsons
and other royalists in the Mohawk valley, and acted as spies and
informants for the enemies of republicanism. lu the summer of 1777,

lALLS AT 1,L'/.EH.SE.

while Ihirgoyne was making' his Avay toward Albany, Colonel St., Leger
p-'uetrated the upper Mohawk valley, and laid siege to Fort Schuyler.
On one occasion he sent Indian messengers to the Fairchilds, who took
t'.ie old trail through the Sacandaga valley, by way of the Fish House,
owned by Sir AVilliam Johnson. When they approacl.d Tio-sa-ron-da
(Luzerne), they were discovered und pursued by a party of republicans,
and one of them, close pressed, leaped the Hudson, at the foot of Jesup's
Little Falls, the high wooded banks then approaching within twenty-five
feet of each other. He escaped, took the trail to Lake George, and pushed
on toSkenesborough (now Whitehall), where he found Biirgoync. Soon after

tliis ti small party of republican troops, sent by General Gates, not succeed-
ing in capturing these royalists at Westfiekl, laid Avasto the settlement.

Luzerne Lake, lying many feet above the village, is a beautiful little
sheet of water, with a single small island upon its bosom. It is the
larger of a series of four lakes, extending back to within five miles of
Lake George. It abounds with fine fish, the largest and most delicious
being the Masque alonge, a species of pike or pickerel, Avliich is also found
in tlie Upper Hudson, and all over northern New York. One was caught

MAS.;l J-; ALOM.K.

in the lake, and brought to Rockwell's, on the morning of our departure,
which Aveighed between five and six pounds.*'

On the northern shore of Luzerne Lake, where the villas of Benjamin
C. llutler and J. Leati, Est^s. (seen in the picture), stood, was the ancient
gathering place of the Indians in council. Here Avas the fork of the great
Sacandaga and Oneida trail, one branch extending to Lake George and
the northern country, and the other to Fort Edward and the more
southern country. All around the lake and village are ranges of lofty
hills, filled with iron ore. On the west is the Kaj'aderossoros range,
extending from Ballston to the Adirondacks, and on the cast of the

* 'V\\a Miispir. iilonic (t\ior cstur) ileiivwl its nanio frmu tlio iioi'iiliiir t'ormation of its iiioulh (iiul
lu'iul. Tlie FiLMuU chIIcmI il Maxtjite nlnuijr, or liOiic-fin't'. It in tlie liiip'st of the piiktMcl spooirs.
Soiiu' have bocii omiKlit miiimjt llio Tlioiisiiml Inlun(irt in llic St. Liiwieiicp, in llio vicinity of Aloxandiia
Day, on its soulheiii «lioio, woigliing fifty ponmis, and niciuturiny Ave ioet in lonnlli. It is tlio moat
voracious of frenli-watcr fish.

THE HUDSON.

Luzerne range, stretching from Saratoga Springs to the western shores of
Lake George. Four miles north of the village is a hemispherical moun-

XrZERNE LAKE.

tain, eight hundred feet in height, rocky and hald, which the Indians
called Se-non-ffc-tvah, the Great Upturned Pot.

(.■O.M'lA'ENCJi Ol' 'illK lUDSO.N AXU SAtAM)AOA.

The Siicandtiga is the largest trilnitary of the Mohawk, and comes down
seventy-five miles from the north-west, out of lakes and ponds in the

THE HUDSON.

wilderness of Hamilton County. Its confluence with its receptacle is at
the head of a veiy beautiful valley, that terminates at Luzerne. It
comes sweeping around the bases of high hills with a rapid current, and
rushes swiftly into the Hudson, where the .atter has become deep and
sluggish after its commotion at the falls above. Down that valley wc •
rode, with the river in view all the way to the village of Corinth, at the
head of the long rapids above Jesup's Great Falls, the Kah-che-lon-cook of
the Indians. These were formerly known as the Hadlcy Falls. They
were afterward called Palmer's Falls, the land on each side of the river

KAU-CHK-DON-COOK, OR JESl'P'S GREAT FALLS.

being in possession of Beriah Palmer and others, who there constructed
extensive works for manufacturing purposes. The water-power there,
even at the very low stage of the river, as when wc visited it, has been
estimated to be equal to fifteen thousand horse-power. They had laid
out a village, with a public square and fountain, and were preparing for
industrial operations far greater than at any point so far up the Hudson.
It is only sixteen miles north of Saratoga Springs.

Wo followed a path down the margin of the roaring stream some
distance, and, returning, took a rough road which led to the foot of the

THE HUDSON.

Great Fall. From Jcsup's landing to this point, a distance of more than
a mile, the river descends about one hundred and twenty feet, in some
places rushing -svildly through rocky gorges from eighty to one hundred
feet in depth. The pei-pendicular fall is seventy-five feet. AVe did not
sec it in its grandeur, the river was so low. From its course back,
some distance, the stream was choked with thousands of logs that had
come down from the wilderness and lodged there. They lay in a
mass, in every conceivable position, to the depth of many feet, and
so filled the river as to form a safe, though rough bridge, for us to
cross. Between this point and Glen's Falls, thii'teen miles distant
by the nearest road, the Hudson makes a grand sweep among lofty
and rugged hills of the Lu/erne range, and flows into a sandy plain a
few miles above the latter village. "VVc did not follow its course, but
took that nearest road, for the day was waning. Over mountains and
through valleys, catching glimpses of the river here and there, we
travelled that bright afternoon in early autumn, our eyes resting only
upon near objects most of the time, until we reached the summit of a
lofty hill, nine miles from Glen's Falls. There a revelation of beauty,
not easily described, burst upon the vision. Looking over and beyond
the minor hills through an opening in the Luzerne range, wc saw the
Green Mountains of Yermont in the far distance, bathed in shadowy
splendour, and all the intervening country, with its villages and farm-
houses, lay beforo us. The spires and white houses of Glen's Falls
appeared so near, that we anticipated a speedy end to our day's jouniey.
That vision was enjoyed but for a few moments, for we were soon again
among the tangled hills. But another appeared to charm iis. We had
just commenced the descent of a mountain, along whose brow lies the
dividing line between the towns of Luzerne and Queensbury, when a
sudden turn in the road revealed a deep, narrow valley far below us, Avith
the Hudson sweeping through it witti rapid current. The sun's last rays
had loft that valley, and the shadows wore deepening along the waters as
wo descended to their margin. Twiliglit was drawing its delicate veil
over the face of nature when we reached the plain just mentioned, and
the nigh< had closed in when wo arrived at the village of Glon's Falls.
"NVe had hoped to reach there in time to visit the State Dam and the

THE HUDSON.

Great Boom, Avhich spun the Hudson at separate points, a few miles
above the falls, but wore compelled to forego that pleasure until morning.
We were now fairly out of the wilderness in which the Hudson rises,
and through which it flows for a hundred miles ; and here our little party
was broken by the departure of Mr. Buckingham for home. Mrs. Lossing
and myself lingered at Glen's Falls and at Fort Edward, five miles below,
a day or two longer, for the purpose of visiting objects of interest in their
vicinity, a description of which will be given as we proceed with our

THIC lIll'SO-N .NKAR TllK (;rKK\8Ul.'H Y LIXK.

notes. A briif notice of the State Dam and Groat liooni, just mentioned,
seems necessajy.

The dam was about two aud a-half miles above Glen's Falls, it had
been constructed about fifteen years before, to furnish water for the feeder
of the canal which connects the Hudson river and Lake Champlain. It
was sixteen hundred feet in length ; and the nulls near it have attracted
a population sufiicient to constitute (juite a village, named State Dam.
About two miles above this dyke was the Great Loom, thrown across the
river for the purpose of catching all the logs that come floating from
above. It was made of heavy, hewn timbers, four of them bolted together

raft-wisc. Th<; ends of the groups wore connecteu hy chains, vhich
■worked over friction rollers, to allow the boom to accommodate itself to
the motion of the water. Eaoh end of the boom was secured to a heavy
abutment by chains ; and above it were strong triangular structures to
break the ice, to serve as anchors for the boom, and to operate as shields
to prevent the logs striking the boom with the full spccil of the cuiTcnt.
At times, immense numbers of logs were collected above tliis boom, filling
the river for two or three miles. In the spring of 1859, at kiist half a
million of logs were collected there, ready to be taken into small side-

THE CiREAT I100^^

booms, assorted by the owners according to their private murks, and sent
down to Glen's Falls, Sandy Hill, or Fort Edward, to be sawed into
boards at the former places, or made into rafts at tlie latter, for a voyage
down the river. Heavy rains and melting snows filled the river to over-
flowing. The great boom snapped asunder, and the half million of logs
"went rushing down the stream, defying every barrier. The country
below was flooded by the swollen river ; and we saw thousands of the
logs scattered over the valley of the Hudson from Fort Edward to Troy,
a distance of about forty miles.

:«l

*|||PMI>««|^WHi|lljg ..I .i)im">

THE HUDSON.

We have taken leave of the ■wikloinr'sg. Henceforth our path •will be
where tho Hudson flows through cultivated plains, along the margins of
gentle slopes, of rocky headlands, and of lofty hills ; by the cottages of the
humble, and the mansions of the wealthy ; by pleasant hamlets, through
thriving villages, ambitious cities, and tht marts of trade and i ommerce.

Unlike the rivers of the elder world, famous in the history of men, the
Hudson presents no grey and crumbling moiuimcnts of tht laider civilisa-
tions of the past, or even of the barbaric life so recently dwelling upon its
borders. It can boast of no rude tower or mouldering wall, clustered
■with historical associations that have been gathering around them for
centuries. It has no fine old castles, in glory or in ruins, with visions of
romance pictured in their dim shadows; no splendid abbeys or cathedrals,
in grandeur or decay, from Avhich emanate an aura of religious memories.
Nor can it boast of mansions or ancestral halls wherein a line of heroes
have been bom, or illustrious families have lived and died, generation
after generation. Upon its banks not a vestige of feudal power may be
seen, because no citadel of great wrongs ever rested there. The dead
Past has left scarcely a record upon its shores. It is full of the living
I'rkskxt, illustrating by its general aspect the free thought and free action
which are giving strength and solidity to the young and vigorous nation
within whose bosom its bright waters flow.

Yet the Hudson is not without a history — a history brilliant in some
respects, and in all interesting, not only to the American, but to the whole
civilised world. i'rom the spot where we now stand — the turbulent
Glen's Falls — to the sea, the banks of the beautiful river have voices
innumerable for the ear of the patient listener ; telling of joy and woe, of
love and beauty, of noble heroism, and more noble fortitude, of gloiy, and
high renown, worthy of the sweetest cadence^ of the minstrel, the glowing
numbers of the poet, tlie deepest investigations of the philosopher, and the
gravest records of the historian. Let us listen to those voic'S.

(Hen's Falls consist of a series of rapids and Cii I'ades, along a descent of
about eighty feet, the water flowing o\cr ragged masses of black marble,
whieli here form the bed and banks of the river. Hawk-eye, in Cooper's
"Last of the Mohicans," has given an admirable description of these falls,
as they appeared before the Avorks of man changed their features. He is

standing in a oavorn, or irrcgulai- arched way, in the rock below the
bridge,* in the time of the old French war, with Fncas and Major Hey-
wood, and Cora and Alice Munro, the daughters of the commandant at
Fort "William Homy, on Lake George, when Montcalm with his motley
horde of French and Indians was approaching. '• Ay," he said, " there
are the falls on two sides of us, and the rive abo\ e and below. If you
had daylight, it would be worth the trouble to slop up on the height of
this rock, and look at the perversity of the water. It falls by no rule at
all : sometimes it leaps, sometimes it tumbles ; there it skips — here it
shoots ; in one place 'tis as white as snow, and in another 'tis as green as
gi'ass ; hereabouts, it pitches into deep hollows, that rumble and quake
the 'arth, and thereaway it ripples and sings like a brook, fashioning
whirlpools and gullies in the old stone, as if 'twere no harder than trodden
clay. The whole design of the river seems disconcei*^od. First, it runs
smoothly, as if meaning to go down the descent as things were ordered ;
then it angles about and faces the shores ; nor are there places wanting
where it looks backward, as if unwilling to leave the wilderness to mingle
with the salt ! "

The falls had few of these features when we visited them. The volume
of water was so small that the stream was almost hidden in the deep
channels in the rock worn by the current during the lapse of ccmturies.
2fo picture could then be made to give an adequate idea of the cascades
when the river is full, and I contented myself with making a sketch of
the scene below the bridge, at the foot of the falls, from the watr side
entrance to the cavern alluded to. A fine sepia drawing, by the late
IMr. Bartlett, which I found subsequently among some original sketches
in my possession, supplies the omission. The engraving from it gives a
perfect idea of the appearance of the falls when the river is at its usual
height.

The Indians gave this place the siirnificant name of Clie-pon-tuc —
meaning a tl'^cult place to get around. The white man first called the
cascades "Wing's Falls, in honour of Abraham "Wing, who, with others

* A view of this cnvein is seen at the head of this iliaiiter. The spcctntor is mpiw-iecl to be wiihiii
it, find looking out uiKni the river and tlie opirasite bank.

from Duchess County, New York, settled there under a grant from the
Crown, rbout the middle of the last century. Many years afterwards,
when "Wing was dead, and his son was in possession of the falls and the
adjacent lands, a convivial party assembled at table in the tavern there,
which formed the germ of the present village of nearly four thousand
inhabitants. Among them was Mr. Wing; also John Glen, a man of
fortune, who lived on the south side of the river. The wine circulated
freely, and it ruled the wit of the hour. Under its influence, Wing

OLEU'8 FALLS.

agreed to transfer to Glen the right of name to the fulls, on condition
that the latter should pay for the supper of the company. Glen imme-
diately posted handbills along the bridle-path from the Wing's to Schenec-
tada and Albany, announcing the change in the name of the falls ; and
ever since they have been knoAvu as Glen's Falls. For a "mess of
pottage " the young man sold his family birthright to immortality.

Glen's Falls village is beautifully situated upon a plain on the north
side of the river, and occupies a conspicuous place in the trade and travel

of that seciion of the State.* The ■water-power there is very great, and
is used extensively for flouring and lumhcr mills. The surplus water
supplies a navigable fc der to the C^haniplain Canal, that connects Lake
Champlain with the Hudson. There aro also several mills for slabbing
the fine black marble of that locality for the construction of chimney-
pieces, and for other u"'^s. These various mills mar the natural beauty of
the scene, but their uncouth and irregular forms give picturesqueness to
the view. The bridge crosses just at the foot of the fall:^. It rests upon
abutments of sti'ong masonry at each end, and a pier in the miildlo, jvhicli

IlEl.OW 'J'HS BItllXtK AT (ir,K>'a VALLS.

is seated upon the caverned rock, just nientioneil, which Avas once in the
bed of the stream. The channel on the southern side has been closed by
an abutment, and one cf the chambers of the cavern, made memorable by
Cooper, is completely shut. Whon we were there, huge logs nearly filled
the upper entrance to it. Below the bridge the shores are black marble,
beautifully stratitied, i)erpendicular, anil, in some places, seventy feet in

•' Not lonii nfler our visit hero Micntlc in'il, n jriTUtor p >iii(in of tlip villagv \vi\s tli elriyod by flro, li i'
it WHS Bdon R'biii'l. _

height, Between these walk the Avatef runs with u swift eurreiit fur
nearly a mile, and finally, at Sandy Hill, three miles below, is broken
into rapids.

At Ssmdy Hiil the Hudson makes a magnificent sweep, in a curve,
Avhen changing its course from an easterly to a southerly direction ; and a
little below that village it is bi'oken into wild caaoades, -wiiich have been
named Baker's Falls. Sandy Hill, like the borough of Glen's Falls,
stands npon a- high plain, and is a very beautiful village, of about thirteen
hundred inhabitants. In its centre is a shaded green, which tradition
points to as the f^sot where a tragedy "was enacted more than a century
ago, some incidents of v h remind us of the romantic but truthful
story of Captain Smith Pocahontas, in Virginia. The time of the

Liagody wa3 during the o^ci jf'rench war, and the chief aetor was a young
Albanian, son of Sybrant Quackenboss, one of the sturdy Dutch burghers
of that old city. The young man was betrothed to a maiden of the same
city; the marriage day Avas fixed, and preparalious for the nuptials were
nearly completed, Avhen he Avas impressed into the military service as a
Avaggoner, and recpiircd to convey a load of provisions from Albany to
Fort William Henry, at the head of Lake George. He had passed Fort
Edward Avith an escort of sixteen men, imder LJcuteuant McGinnis, of
K'ew Hampshire, and Avas making liis Avay tlpjugh the gloomy forest at
tlie bend ol the ][udson, Avhen they were attacked, overpowered, and dis-
armed by a party of I'rench Indians, uiuler the famous partizan Marin.
The prisoners Avere taken to i he t''uuk of a fallen tree, and seated upon it
in a row. The captors then sttirted toward Fort Edward, leaving the
helpless captives strongly bound Avith green Avithes, in charge of two or
three stahvart Avarriors, and their squaws, or Avives. In the course of an
hour the party returned. Young Quackeuboss Avas seated at one cud of
the log, and Lieutenant McGinnis next him. The savages held a brief
consultation, and then one of them, Avilh a glittering tomahawk, Avent to
the end of the log opposite Quackenboss, and deliberately sank Ids Aveapon
in the brain of the nearest soldit'r. He fell dead upon the ground. The
second shared a like fate, then a third, and so on until all Avere slain but
McGinnis and Quackenboss. The tomaluvAvk Avas raised to cleave the
skull of the former, Avhen he threw himself suddenly backward from the

i !

log, ami attempted to break his bontls. In an instant a dozen tomahawks
gleamed over his head. For a while he defended himseli" with his heels,
lying upon his back, but vifter being severely hewn with their hatchets,
he Wfis killed by a blow. Quackenboss alone remained of the seventeen.
As the fatal steel was about to fall upon his head, the arm of the savage
executioner was arrested by a s(juaw, who exclaimed, ** You shan't kill
him I He's no lighter I He's iiii/ dog !'^ He was spared and unbound,
and, staggering under a pack of plunder almost too heavy for him to
sustain, he was marched towards Canada, as a prisoner, the Indians bear-
ing the scalps of his laurdercd fellow captives as trophies. They went
do\, n Lake Champlain in canoes, and at the tirst Indian village, after
reaching its foot, he wns compelled to run the gauntlet between rows of
sa^-agc men aimed with clubs. In this terrible ordeal he was severely
wounded. His Indian mistress tlien took lum tj her wigwam, bound up
liis Avounds, and carefully nursed him until be was fully recovered. The
Governor of Canada ransomed him, took him to Montreal, and there he
was employed as a waver. He obtained !.]'<' governor's permission to
write to his i)!irents to inform then: of hi-s fate. The letter was carried
by an liulian as near Fort Edward as he dared to approach, when he
placed i': in a split ^tick, near a frequented path in the forest. It was
found, was conveyed to Albany, and {;a,e gnat joy to his friends. He
lemained in Canada three yeavs, when he ri'turncd, married his affianced,
and died in Washington Couiily, in the year IHi'O, at the age of eighty-
three years.

Baker's Falls are about half-way between Smdy Hill and Fort Edward.
The river is about four hundred leet in width, and the entire descent of
water, in the course of a mile, io between seventy and eighty feet. As
at Glen's Falls, the course of the r'ver is made irregular by huge masses
of rocks, and it rushes in foaming cascades to the chasm below. The
best vieA\' is from the foot of the falls, but as these could not be reached
from the eastern side, on which the paper-mills stand, without much
difliculiy and some danger, 1 sketched a less imposing view from the high
reeky bank on their eastern margin. This alfords a glimpse of the mill-
dam above the great fall, the village of Sandy Hill in the distance, and
the piers of a projected railway bridge in the stream at the great bend.

THE HUDSON.

The ilircction of the railway was changed after these piers were built at
a heavy expense, and they remain as monuments of caprice, or of some-
thing still less commendable.

Fort Edward, five miles below Glen's Falls, by the river's course, was
earliest known as the gi-eat carrying place, it being the point of overland
departure for Lake Chaniplain, across the i^.thmus of flve-and-twenly
miles. It has occupied an important position i.n the history of J^ew York

BAKLK'S 1 ALLij.

from an early period, and at the time we are considering was a veiy
thriving village of about two taousand inhabitants.

In the year 1096, the unsciupulous Governor Fletcher granted to one
of his faYouritep, whom he styled "our Loving Hubjcct, tlie Reverend
Godfridius l)elliu^', ^Minister of the Gospell att our city of Albany," ix
tract of land lying upon Iho east side of the Hudson, between the
northernmost bounds of tlie Saratoga ])aten(, and a point of Lake Cham-
phnn, u distance of geventy mileSj with an average width of twelve miles.
For this domain the worldly-minded clergyman w is required, in the lan-
guage of the grant, to pay, " on the feast-diiy of the Annunciation of our
blessed Virgin Mary, at our City of New Yorke, the Aiuiual llent of one

> ' i

;

Raccoon Skin, in Lieu and Steadc of all other Eents, Services, Dues,
Dutyes, and Demands whatsoever for the said Tract of Land, and Islands,
and Premises." Governor Bellomont soon succeeded Fletcher, and, tlirough
his influence, the legislature of the province annulled this and other
similar grants. That body, exercising ecclesiastical as well as civil
functions, also passed a resolution, Buspendiug Di.'llius from the ministry,
for " deluding the Maquaas (Mohawk) Indians, and illegal and surreptitious
obtaining of said grant." Dcllius denied the autliority of the legislature,
and, iifter contesting his claim for a while, he returned to Holland.
There he transferred his title to the domain to the llev. John Lydius,
who- became Dellius's successor in the ministry at Albany, in 1703.
Lydius soon afterward built a stone tradit g-hovise upon the site of Fort
Edward, Its door and windows were stro'jgly barred, and near the roof
the walls were pierced lor musketry. It was erected upon a high mound,
and palis.ided, as a defence against encmii-.«.

In 1709 an expedition was prepared for the conquest of Canada. The
commander of the division to attack Montreal wig Francis Nicholson,
who had been lieutenant-governor of the provi. - .■> I^Tew York. Under
his direction a military road, forty miles in length, was opened from
Saratoga, on the east side of the Hudson, to White Hall, on Lake Cham-
jtlaiu. Along this route three forts were erected. The upper one was
mimed Fort Anne, in honour of the Queen of England ; the middle one,
of which Lydius's house formed a part, vus called Fort JSricholson, in

honour of the corauiunder ; and the lower one, just
below the mouth of the I3atten-Kill, was named
Fort Saratoga. Almost fifty years later, when
a provincial army, under General Johnson, of
the Mohawk valley, and General Iivman, of
Connec'ticut, was moving forward to drive the
French from Lake Cliamplain, a strong irregular
(juadrtuiguliir fort was erected by tlie latter
ofllccr, upon the site of Fort I^icliolson, ';i)il the fortification was called
Fort Lyman, in his honour. It was not fairly completed wlicn n, 8uoc<'3sful
battle was fought with the French and Indians under the Uaron Dieskau,
at the head of Lake George, the honours of which wre more greatly

GROl'NH-1'LAN OF rOHT
KDWAKD,

KSrwnsrravTi

t'^-m-

duo to Lyman than Johnson. But the latter was chief commander. His
king, as we have seen, gave him the honours of knighthood and £4,000.
With a mean spirit of jealousy, Johnson not only omitted to mention General
Lyman in liis despatches, hut changed the name of the fort which he had
orected, to Edward, in honour of one of the royal family of England.

I'urt Edward was an important military post during the whole of the
French and Indian war, — that Seven Years' War which cost England
more than a hundred millions of pounds sterling, and laid one of the
broadest of the foundation-stones of her immense national debt. There,
on one occasion, Israel Putnam, a bold pro rincial partizan, and afterward
a major-general in the American revolutionary army, performed a most
daring exploit. It was winter, and the whole country was covered with
deep snow. Early in the morning of a mild day, one of the rows of
wooden barracks in the fort took fire ; the flames had progressed exten-
sively before they were discovered. The garrison was summoned to duty,
but all efforts to subdue the fire were in vain. Putnam, who was
stationed upon Pogcr's Island, opposite the fort, crossed the river upon
the ice with some of his men, to assist the garrison. The fire was then
rapidly approaching the building containing the powder-magazine. The
danger was becoming every moment more imminent and frightfvd, for an
explosion of the powder would destroy the whole fort and many lives.
The water-gate was thrown open, and soldiers were ordered to bring
filled buckets from the river. Putnam mounted to the roof of the
building next to the magazine, and, by means of a ladder, ho was supidied
with water. Still the fire raged, and the commandant of the fort,
perceiving Putnam's danger, ordered him down. The unflinching major
begged permission to remain a little longer. It was granted, and he did
not leave liis post until lie felt tlie roof beneath him giving way. It fell,
and only a few feet from the blazing nuiss Avas the magazine building, its
sides already charred with the heat. Unmindful of the peril, Putnam
placed himself between the fire and the sleeping power in the menaced
building, Avhich a spark might arouse to destructive activity. Tinder a
shower of cinders, he hurled bucket-full after bucket-full of water upon
the kindling magazine, witlv ultimate success. The flames were subdued,
the magazine and remainder of the fort were saved, and the intrepid

THE HUDSON.

Putnam retired from the terrible conflict amidst the huzzas of his com-
panions in arms. He was severely wounded in the contest. His mittens
were burned from his hands, and his legs, thighs, arms, and face were
dreadfully blistered. For a month he was a sufibring invalid in the hospital.

Fort Edward was strengthened by the republicans, and properly
garrisoned, when the revolution broke out in 1775. When General
Burgoyne, with his invading army of British regulars, hired Gennans,
French, Canadians, and Indians, appeared at the foot of Lake Champlain,
General Philip Schuyler was the coiamandcr-in-chicf of the republican
army in the Northern Department. His head-quarters were at Fort Anne,
and General St. Clair cojnmanded the impo?'tant post of Ticonderoga. In
July, Burgoyne came sweeping down the lake triumphantly. St. Clair
fled from Ticonderoga, and his army was scattered and sorely smitten in
the retreat. "When the Ikitish advanced to Skencsborough, at the head
of the lake, Schuyl'^r rctrr^ated to F*^ rt Edwanl, felling trees across the
old military road, deniolisuitg the canscvays over the groat Kingsbury
marshes, and destroying the bridges, to obstruct the invader's progress.
With great labour and perseverance Burgoyne moved forward, and on the
29th of July ho encamped upon the higli bank of the Hudson, at the
great bend where the village of Sandy Hill now stands.

At this time a tragedy occurred near Fort Edward, which produced a
great sensation throughout the country, and has been a theme for historj-,
poetry, romance, and song. It was the death of Jenny M'Crea, the
daughter of a Scotch Presbyterian clergyman, who is described as lovely
in disposition, graceful in manners, and io intelligent and winniug in all
her ways, that she was a favonritc of all who knew her. She was visiting
a Tory friend at Fort Edward at this time, and was betrothed to a young
man of the neighbourhood, who was a subaltern in Burgoyne's army.
On the approach of the invaders, her brother, who lived near, fled, with
his family, down the river, and desired Jenny to accompany them. She
preferred to stay under the protection of her Tory friend, who was a
widow, and a cousin of General Eraser, of Burgoyne's ai-my.

Burgoyne had found it difficult to restrain the cruelty of his Indians.
To secure their co-operation he had off'ercd them a bounty for prisoners
and scalps, at the same time forbidding them to kill any person not iu

ill-.

arms for the sake of scalps. The offer of bounties stimulated the savages
to seek captives other than those in the field, and they went out in small
parties for the purpose. One of these prowled around Fort Edward early
on the morning after Biirgoyne arrived at Sandy Hill, and, entering the
house where Jenny was staying, carried away the young lady and her

THK JF.XXV M> IIKA TltKi:,

friend. A nogi'o hoy alarmed the garrison, and a d( taihment was sent
after the Indians, who were fleeing with their pris^oners toward the camp.
They had caught two horses, and on one of them .Tenny was already
placed by them, when the detachment assailed them with a volley of

(

THE HUDSON.

musketry. The savages were unliarmecl, but one of the bullets mortally
wounded their fair captive. She fell and expired, as tradition relates,
near a pine-tree, which remained as a memorial of the tragedy until a
few years ago. Having lost their prisoner, they secured her scalp, and,
with her black tresses wet with her warm blood, they hastened to the
camp. Tlie friend of Jenny had just arrived, and the locks of the maiden,
which were of great lengtli and beauty, were recognised by her. She
charged the Indians with her murder, which they denied, and told the
story substantially as it is here related.

This appears, from corroborating circumstances, to be the simple truth
of a story which, as it went from lip to lip, became magnified into a tale
of darkest horror, and produced wide-spread indignation. General Gates,
who had just supLTscded General Schuyler in the command of the northern
iiriny, took advantage of the excitement which it produced, to increase
the hatrc(| of the Uritish in the Jieurts of the people, and lie charged
;|ilirgoyne wttli crimes tiiiclly foreign to tliat gentleman's nature. In a
puliiishcd letter, he iiccuseflhim of hiring savages to " scalp Europeans
and the descendants of Europeans;" spoke of ^ci^jif as having been
" itresscd to meet her promised husband, but met her murderers," em-
ployed by Burgoyne ; asserted that sjic, with .several wo^e/i a^d children,
had been tiiKli "ffoin t|ic liouse //i)[o tjie woods, ami Uiufc pctdptii :nii']
nuuigk'd in it tiiosj; sjioeking mnfijlf-'fi " and alleged that lie had x...../
the price of btood!" This letter, so untruthful and ungencrouf;, was
coiulomned by Gates's friends in the army. I5ut it had the desired effect ;
and the saii story of Jenny's death Avas used with power against the
ministry by the opposition in the British parliament.

The lover of Jenny left the cifjffy, and settled in Canada, where ho lived
to bo an old man. He was naturally gay and garrulous, but after that
event he was ever sad and taciturn. He never married, and avoided
society. When the anniversary of the tragedy approached, he would
shut himself in his room, and refuse to see his most intimate acquaint-
ances ; and at all times his friends avoided speaking of the American
revolution in his presence. The body of Jenny was buried on her brother's
land: it was re-interred at Fort Edward in 1826, with imposing cere-
monies; and again in 1852, her remains found u new resting-place in a

THE HUDSON.

beautiful ccmetciy, halt-way betvvoen Fort Edward and Sandy Hill.
Her grave is near the entrance ; and upon a plain white marble stone, six.
foot in height, standing at its head, is the following inscription : —

"Here rest the remains of Jane M'Crea, aged 17; made captive and
murdered by a band of Indians, while on a visit to a relative in the neigh-
bourhood, A. D. 1777. To commemorate one of the most thrilling incidents
in the annals of the American revolution, to do justice to the fame of the
gallant British officer to whom she was affianced, and as a simple tribute

BALM-Oi'-a^ ^i^AS TBKii.

to the memory of <} ' d. parted, this stone is erected by her niece, Sarah
Hanna Payne, a.d. 1862," ,

No relic of the olden time now remains at Port Edward, excepting a
few logs of the fort oii tlic edge of the river, some faint traces of the
embankments, and a magnificent Balm-of-Gilead tree, Avhich stood, a
sapling, at the water-gate, when Putnam saved the magazine. It has
three huge trunks, springing t'inm tlie rooti^. One of them is more than
half decayed, having been twice riven by lightning within a few jears.
Upon llogcrs's Island, in front of the town, where armies were encamped.

THE HUDSON.

and a large block -house stood, Indian arrow-heads, bulkls, and occasionally
a piece of " cob-niouey," *■' are sometiraes upturned by the plough.

A picture of the village of Foi-t Edward, in 1820, shows only six houses
and a church ; now, as we have observed, it was a busy town with two

VIEW AT FOBT EDM'AKD.

thousand inhabitants. Its chief industrial establishment was an extensive
l)last-fuinace for converting iron ore into the pure metal. Upon rising
ground, and overlooking the village and surrounding country, was a
colossal educational establishment, called the Fort Edward Institute.

* The old silver coins occasionally
found at Fort Edward are called " cob-
money" by the people. I could not
Hsiertain the derivation of the name.
The picture rcpn'sents both sides of two
pieces in my iMssession, the proper size.
The larger one is a cross-pislarcen, of
tlie value of about sixteen cents ; the
other is a cjuartir fraction of the same.
They are ii regular in fomi, and the
devices and dates, respectively 1741 and
174;!, are imperfect. These Spanish coins
formed the bulk of the specie circulated among the French in Canada a hundred years ago.

"tOU-MONKr."

THE HUDSON.

The building was erected, and its affairs Avcre controlled, by tlic Methodist
denomination, and it was widely known as one of the most flourishing
institutions of its kind in the country. The building was five stories in
height, and was surrounded by pleasant grounds. It is sceu in our view
at. Fort Edward, whicli was talan from the end of tlic bridge that con-
nects Eogcrs's Island with llie western shore of the Hudson. The blast-
furnace, and a portion of the Fort Edward dam, built by the State for
the use of the Champlaiu Canal, is also seen in the picture.

A carriage-ride from Fort Edward down the valh y of the Hudson,

lOHT MILLKR HAl'lUS.

especially on its western side, affords ex(juisitc enjoyment to the lover of
beautiful scenery and the displays of careful cultivation. TIk; public
road follows the river-bank nearly all the way to 'l?roy, a distance of forty
miles, and the traveller seldom loses sight of the noble stream, which is
frequently divided by islands, some cultivated, and others heavily wooded.
The most important of these, between Fort Edward and Schuylerville,
are Munro's, Bell's, Taylor's, Galusha's, and Payne's; the third one con-
taining seventy acres. The sIioils of the river are everywhere fringed

V^.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

??->

C ^»

.^I^^

'^fe

^/.

1.0

tt£ 1^ |2.2

1.1 i.-^i^

IL25 IEii.4

1-8
1.6

"^r/.^ a

Hiotographic

Sdences
Corporation

33 WIST MAIN STRUT

WIB!iTIR,N.Y. 145(0

(716) •72-4S03

L17

^o^

•«•

4?" i

■ w- *

THE HUDSON.

with beautiful sliaclo-trees and sluubbciy, and fertile lands spread out on
every side.

Seven miles below Fort Edward, on the western shore, is the s"tc of
Foii Miller, erected during the French and Indian war ; and opposite, at
the head of foaming rapids, which affoi'd fine water-power for mills, is
the village of Fort Miller, then containing between two and three hun-
dred inhabitants. Not a ve.tige of the fort remains. The river here
rushes over a rough rocky bed, and falls fifteen or twenty feet in the
course of eighty rods. Here was the scene of another of Putnam's adven-
tures during the old war. He was out with a scouting party, and was
lying alone in a batteau on the east side of the river, when ho was sur-
prised by some Indians ; he could not cross the river swiftly enough to
escape the balls of their rifles, and there was no alternative but to go
down the foaming rapids. He did not hesitate a moment. To tbe
astonishment of the savages, he steered directly down the current, amid
whirling eddies and over ragged and shelving rocks, and in a few moments
his vessel had cleared the rushing waters, and was gliding upor. the
tramiuil river below, far out of reach of their weapons The Indians
dared not make the perilous voyage : they regarded Putnam as God-
protecteu, and believed that it would bo an affront to the Great Spirit to
make further attempts to kill him with powder and ball.

CHAPTER V.

p)R the twofold purpose of affording water-poAver
for mills, and providin-^ still water for the boats
of the Charaplain Canal to cross, the Saratoga
Dam is constructed at Fort Miller, three miles
below the rapids. The dam forms an elbow
in the middle of the stream, and is about 1,400
feet in length. Below it are considerable
rapids ; just above it is a bridge, Avhich has a
carriage-way for the public use, and a narrower
passage for the horses that draw tlie canal boats.
These vessels flout safely on the usually still
water of the river, but sometimes, when the
stream is very full, the passage is attended with some difficulty, if not
danger, on p.ccount of the strong though sluggish current. When wc
visited the spot, a large-class boat lay wrecked in the rapids below,
having gone over the dam the day before.

The country in this vicinity is beautiful : the valley is narrow, and the
hills, on the eastern side especially, rise one above the other in the land-
scape, until the view is bounded by a broken mountain range beyond.
Here wo crossed the river upon the caual bridge, and rode down to the
mouth of the Batten-Kill, near wliere it enters the Hudson, to visit the
spot -on the plain just above its mouth— where the army of Burgoyne
lay encamped, before ho crossed the Hrulson to engage in those conflicts
at Bemis's Heights, which resulted in his discomiituro and captivity.
There he establishcl a slaughter-yard ; and it is said that the fertility
imparted to the soil by tlie blood and olfal left tliere was visible in its
effects upon the crops raised thereon for more than sixty years afterwards.
The Batten-Kill is u shallow and rapid stream, and one of the lai'gc^st
of the tributaries of tho Hudson, flowing in from tho eastward. It rises

iu the State of Vermont, anil, before leaving the borders of that common-
wealth, receives the Eoariug branch : its entire length is about fifty miles.
"Within two miles of its mouth arc remarkable rapids and falls, which
the tourist should ne\ er pass by unseen : the best point of view is from
the bottom of a steep precipice on the southern side of the stream. The
descent is fifty or sixty feet, very difficult, and somewhat dangerous. It
was raining copiously when we visited it, which made the descent still
more difficult, for the loose slate and the small sparse shrubbery were

CA.NAI. BlUDUE ACUOSS TllK IIIDSOX AllOVE Til': SARATOGA DAM.

verv insecure. Under a shelving black rock on the margin of the abyss
into which the waters pour, we found a good place for observation. The
spectacle Avas grand. For about three hundred feet above the great i'all,
the stream rushes through a narrow rocky chasm, roaring and foaming ;
and then, in a still narrower space, it leaps into the dark gulf which has
been named the Devil's Caldron, in a perpendicular fall of almost forty
feet. The Indians named these falls Di-on-oii-deh-o-iva, the signification
of which we could not learn. . .

From the Di-on-on-deh-o-iva we rode to Schuylervillc, crossing the

THE HUDSON.

Hudson upon a bridge eight hundred feet in length, just below the site of
old Fort Hardy, and the place where Burgoyne's army laid down their
arni3. From the vilh.ge wc went up the western side of the river about
a mile, and from a sliglit eminence obtained a fine view of the scene where
the Batten-Kill enters the Hudson in two channels, having a fairy-like
island between them. The river is there about six hundred feet in width,
and quite deep.

Upon the slope opposite the mouth of the Batten-Kill is the house of

''.';.>:■

■^^i'U

COSiXUENCE OF THE HUDSON AND BArfEX-KlU,.

Samuel Marshall, known as the lleidesel House. There, eleven years
before, the Avritci visited an old lady, ninety-two years of age, who gave
him many interesting details of the old war in that vicinity : she died at
the age of iiinety-six. This house was made famous in the annals of
Burgoyne's unfortunate tampaii-n by a graphic account of sufferings
therein, given by the Baroness lleidesel, wife of the Brunswick general
wlio commanded the German troops in the Britisli army. She, with her
children and domestics, and u Jew other women, and wounded officers,
took refuge in this liouse from the storm of irregular conflict. The
Americans, supposing tho Brititih generals were in that house, opened a

cannonade upon it, and all the inmates took refuge in the cellar. " The
ladies of the army ■who Avcre -with me," says the Baroness, " were
Mrs. Harnagc, a Mrs. Kennels, the widow of a lieutenant who Avas
killed, and the lady of the commissary. Major Harnage, his wife, and
Mrs. Kennels, made a little room in a corner, Avitlx curtains to it, and
Avishcd to do the same for mo, but I preferred being near the door, in case

Ul-OX-0.\-J)i;il-0-\VA, 01! (iliKAT lALLS Ol' THE DATTKN-KILL.

of fire. Not far off my women ykpt, and opposite to me three English
ofticors, who, though wounded, Avero determined not to be left behind :
one of them Avas Captain Green, an aide-de-camp to !Major-Geueral Phillips,
a A'cry valuable officer and iwost agreeable man. Thoy each made mo a
most sacred promise not to leaA-e me behind, and, in case of sudden retreat,
that they would each of them take one of my children on his horse ; and

THE HUDSON.

for myself one of my husband's was in constant readiness The

want of water distressed us much ; at length wo found a soldier's wife

THR HEIDliSEL IIOISK.

who had courage enough to fetch us some from the river — an office nobody
else would undertake, as the Americans sliot at every person who
approached it, but out of rfspect for her sex they never molested her."

1 1.1,1, AH tr i;i;iJ)i:biii, iioisi:.

Six days these ladies and their companions romained in that cellar, wlicn
hostilities ceased, and the British army surrendered to the Americans.

The village of Schuylerville is pleasantly situated upon a slope on the
western margin of the Upper Hudson valley, on the north bank of the
Fish Creek (the outlet of Saratoga Lake), which there leaps to the plain
in a series of beautiful cascades, after being released from the labour of
turning several mill-wheels. These cascades or rapids commence at the
bridge where the public road crosses the creek, and continue for many
rods, until a culvert under the Champlain Canal is passed. Viewed from
the 'grounds around the Schuyler mansion, at almost every point, they

IlAl'IDS OF THE FISH CREEK, AT SCIII'VLERVILI.E.

present very perfect specimens of a picturesque water-course, having
considerable strength and volume.

The village, containing about twelve hundred inhabitants, occupies the
site of General IJurgoyne's intrenched camp, at the time Avhen he sur-
rendered to General Gates, in the autumn of 1777. It was named in
honour of General Philip Schuyler, upon whose broad domain of Saratoga,
and in whoso presence, the last scenes in that memorable campaign were
pevformcd, and who, for forty years, was a conspicuous actor in civil and
military life in his native State of New York.

Upon one of the conical hills on the opposite side of the valley, just
below the Batten-Kill, was old Fort Saratoga, written Sarahtogue in tlie
old records. It was a stockade, weakly garrisoned, and, with the scattered
village of thirty families, of the same name, upon the plain below, was
destroyed in the autumn of 1745, by a horde of Frenchmen and Indians,
under the noted partisan Marin, whose followers, as we have seen, per-
formed a sanguinary tragedy at Sandy Hill ten years later. They had
left Montreal for the purpose of making a foray upon some English settle-
ments on the Connecticut river. It was late in the season, and at Crown
Point, on Lake Champlain, the Indians refmed to go eastward, because of
their lack of preparations for the rigour of winter. On the suggestion of
Father Piquet, the French Prefect Apostoliquc of Canada, who met the
expedition at Crown Point, Marin led his white and red savages south-
ward, towards Orange, as Albany was then called by the French, to cut
off the advancing English settlements, and bear away what plunder they
might obtain. Father Piquet accompanied them, and the invaders fell
upon the inhabitants when they were asleep. They burnt the fort and
most of the houses, murdered some who resisted, f.ad carried away captive
over one hundred men, women, and children.

Upon the south side of the Fish Creek, on the margin of the rapids,
stood a brick mansion, pierced near the roof for musketry, and owned and
occupied by a kinsman of General Schuyler, bearing the same name. His
house was attacked, and in an attempt to defend it he was shot. His
body was consumed, with other persons who had escaped to the cellar,
when, after plundering the house, the savages set it on five. That Saratoga
estate was bequeathed by the murdered owner to his nephew Philip (the
General), who built a country mansion, elegant for the times, near the
site of the old one, and occupied it when Burgoyne invaded the valley in
1777. During that invasion the general's house and mills were burned
by Burgoyne's orders. It was an act whicli the British general afterwards
lamerted, for he soon learned to honour Scliuylcr as one of the noblest
men he had ever met. The mansion was rebuilt immediately after the
campaign was over, a few rods from the site of the old one, but in a style
much inferior in beauty and expense. It was the general's country-seat
(his town residence being in Albany) until his death in 1804, and was

THE HUDSON.

still preserved in its original form at the time of our visit, and surrounded
by beautiful shady trees, many of which were planted by the master's
own hand. It was then the residence of George Strover, Esq., who took
pleasure in preserving it as General Schuyler left it. Even some ancient
lilac shrubs, now quite lofty trees, gnarled and unsightly, that were in
the garden of the old mansion, were cherished as precious mementoes of
tlie past.

An outline sketch of events to which allusion has just been made is

THE SCHUYLER MANSION.

necessary to a full comprehension of the isolated historical facta with
which this portion of our subject abounds. "Wo will trace it with
rapid pencil, c.nd leave the completion of the picture to the careful
historian.

The campaigns of 1775 and 1776, against the rebellious Americans,
were fruitless of any satisfactory results. The British cabinet, supported
by heavy majorities in both Houses of Parliament, resolved to open the
campaign of 1777 with such vigour, and to give to the service in America
such material, as should not fail to put down the rebellion by midsummer.

4«

THE HUDSON.

So long as the Republicans remained united, so long as there existed a
free communication between Massachusetts and Virijinia, or, in other
words, between the Eastern and the Middle and Southern States, permanent
success of the British arms in America seemed questionable. The rebellion
was hydra-headed, springing into new life and vigour suddenly and
powerfully, from the inherent energies of union, in places where it seemed
to be subdued or destroyed. To sever that union, and to paralyse the
vitality dependent thereon, was a paramount consideration of the British
Government when planning the campaign of 1777.

General Sir William Howe was then in quiet possession of the city of
New York, at the' mouth of the Hudson river. A strong British force
occupied Rhode Island, and kept watch over the whole eastern coast of
JS'ew England. Republicans who had invaded Canada had been driven
back by Governor Carleton ; and nothing remained to complete the separa-
tion of the two sections of , the American States, but to march an invading
army from Canada, secure the strongholds upon Lakes George and Cham-
plain, press forward to Albany, and there form a junction with Howe,
whose troops, meanwhile, should have taken possession of the Hudson
Highlands, and every place of importance upon that river.

The leadership of that invasion from the North was intrusted to
Lieutenant-General Sir John Burgoyne, who had won military laurels in
Portugal, had held a seat in the king's council, and was then a member
of Parliament. Ho arrived at Quebec in March, 1777, and in June had
collected a large force of English and German troops, Canadians, and
Indians, at the foot of Lake Champlain. At the beginning of July he
invested Ticonderoga with ten thousand men, drove the Americans from
that old fortress and its dependencies, and, as we have obscr-*ed, swept
victoriously up the lake to Skenesborough, and advanced to Fort Edward.
From that point ho sent a detachment to Bennington, in Vermont, to
seize cattlo and provisions for the use of the array. The expedition was
defeated by militia, under Stark, and thereby Burgoyne received a blow
from which he did not recover. Yet he moved forward, crossed the Hudson
a little above Schuylerville, and pitched his tents, and formed a fortified
camp upon the site of that village. He had stated at Fort Edward that
he should eat his Christmas dinner in Albany, a laurelled conqueror, with

the great objects of tlic campaign perfectly accomplished ; but now he
began to doubt.

General Schuyler had been the commander of the troops opposed to
Burgoyne until the 19th of August, when he surrendered his charge to
General Gates, a conceited officer, very much Lis inferior in every par-
ticular. This superscdurc had been accomplished by political intrigue.

"When Burgoyne crossed the Hudson, Gates, then at the mouth of the
Mohawk, advanced with his troops to Bemis's Height, about twelve miles
below the halting British army, and there established a fortitied camp.
Perceiving the necessity of immediate hostile action — because the Itepub-
lican army was hourly augmenting (volunteers tiocking in from all
(quarters, and particularly from New England^ — Burgoyne crossed the
Fish Creek, burned the mills and mancion of General Schuyler, and
advanced upon Gates.

A severe but indecisive battle was fought at Bemis's Heights on the
1 9th of September ; Burgoyne fell back a few miles toward his intrenched
camp, and resolved there to await the expected approach of Sir Hcniy
Clinton, with a large force, up the lower Hudson. Clinton was ta^-dy,
perils were thickening, and Burgoyne resolved to make another attack
upon Gates. After a severe battle fought on the 7th of October, upon
almost the same ground occupied in the engagement on the 19th of Sep-
tember, he was again compelled to fall back. He finally retreated to his
intrenched camp beyond the I'ish Creek.

Burgoyne's force was now hourly diminishiug, the Canadians and
Indians deserting him in great numbers, while volunteers were swelling
the ranks oi" Gates. The latter now advanced upon Burgoyne, and, on
the 17th of October, that general surrendered his army of almost six
thousand men, and all its appointments, into the hands of the Itepublicans.
The forts upon Lakes George and Champlain were immediately abandoned
by the British, and the llepublicans held an unobstructed passage from
the Hudson Highlands to St. John, on the Sorel, in Canada.

The spot where Burgoyne's army laid down their arms is upon the
plain in front of Schuylerville, near the site of old Fort Hardy, a little
north of the highway leading from the village across the Hudson, over
the long bridge already mentioned. Our view is taken from one of the

» :

THE HUDSON.

canal bridges, looking north-east. The Hudson is seen beyond the place
of surrender, and in the more remote distance may be observed the conical
hills which, on the previout^ day, had swarmed with American volunteers.
With the delicate courtesy of a gentleman. General Gates ordered all
his army within his camp, that the vanquished might not be submitted to
the mortification of their gaze at the moment of the great humiliation.
The two generals liad not yet seen each other. As soon as the troops had
laid down their arms, Burgoyuc and his officers proceeded towards Gates's

fiCEKE OF BUROOyNE'8 BUBKE^DEB.

camp, to be introduced. They crossed the Fish Creek at the head of the
rapids, and proceeded towards the republican general's quarters, about a
mile and a-half down the river. Burgoyne led the way, with Kingston
(his adjutant-general), and his aides-de-camp. Captain Lord Petersham
and Lieutenant Wilford, followed by Generals Phillips, lleidesel, and
Hamilton, and other officers, according to rank. General Gates, informed
of the approach of Burgoyne, went out with his staff to meet him at the
head of his '^imp. Burgoyne was dressed in a rich uniform of scarlet and
gold, and Gates in a plain blue frock coat. "When Avithin about a sword's

THE HUDSON.

length of each other, they reined up their horses, and halted. Colonel
"Wi kinson, Gates's aide-de-camp, then introduced the two generals. Both
dismounted, and Burgoyne, raising his hat gracefully, said — "The
fortune of war, General Gates, has made mo your prisoner." The victor
promptly replit'T — "I shall always he ready to bear testimony that it
has not been through any fault of your excellency." The other officers
were then introduced in turn, and the whole party repaired to Gates's
heaC-quarters, where the best dinner that could be procured was served.
The plain farmhouse in which that remarkable dinner-party was

OATES'S HEAD-liUAHTKBS.

assembled remained unaltered externally when ,y^o visited it, excepting
BUuh changes as have been effected by necessary repairs. It stood about
eighty rods from the Hudson, on the western margin of the plain ; and
between it and the river the tlhamplain Canal passed. Our oketch was
made from the highway, and includes glimses of the canal, the river, and
the hills on the eastern side of the plain.

The Baroness lleidesel, in her narrative of these events, says : "I was,
I confess, iJraid to go over to the enemy, as it wao quite a new situation

to me. When I drew near the tents, a handsome man approached and
met me, took my children from the caleche, and hugged and kissed them,
which affected me almost to tears. ' You tremble,' said he, addressing
himself to me ; * be not afraid.' * No,' I answered, ' you seem so kind
and tender to my children, it inspires me with courage.' He now led me
to the tent of General Gates, where I found Generals Burgoyne and Phillips,
who were on a friendly footing with the former.

"All the generals remained to dine with General Gates. The same
gentleman who received me so kindly, now came and said to me, * You
will be very much embarrassed to eat with all those gentlemen ; come
with your childi'en to my tent, where I will prepare for you a frugal
dinner, and give it with a free will.' I said, * You are certainly a husband
and a father, you have shown me so much kindness.' I now found that
he was General Schtjyleh. He treated me with excellent smoked tongue,
beef- steaks, potatoes, and good bread and butter. Never could I have
wished to eat a better dinner. I was content ; I saw all around me wero
so likewise. When we had dii d, he told me his residence was at Albany,
and that General Burgoyne intended to honour him as his guest, and
invited myself and children to do so likewise. I asked my husband how
I should act; ho told mo to accept the invitation." General Schuyler's
house at Albany yet remains, and there we shall hereafter meet the
Baroness and Burgoyne, as guest;} of that truly noble repubJican.

The Hudson, from SchuyleiTillc to Stillwater, a distance of about
thirteen miles, flows through a rich plain, and its course is unbroken by
island, rapid, or bridge. Between it and the western margin of the plain
is the Champlain Canal, bearing upon its quiet bosom the wealth of a
large internal commerce, exttnding from New York and Albany to Canada.
It was spanned, for the convenience of the farmers through whose land it
pasb-^s, with numerous bridges, stiff and ungraceful in appearance, and all
of the 3amo model. A picture of one of them is given at the head of this
chapter. The river was also crossed in several places by means oi rope
ferries. These, at times, presented quite picturesque scenes, when men
and women, teams, live stock, and merchandize, happen to conotitute the
freight at one time. The vehicle was a large scow ov baitcau, which was
pushed by means of long poles, that reached to tho bottom of the river ;

THE HUDSON.

and it was kept in its course, in defiance of the current, by ropes fore and
alt, attached by friction rollers to a stent cable stretched across the stream.
There were several of these ferries between Fort Edward and Stillwatei-,
the one most used being that at Bemis's Heights, of which we give a
drawing.

Three miles below Schuylerville, on the same side of the river, is the
bamlet of Coveville, formerly called Do-ve-gat, or Van Vechteu's Cove.
It is a pretty, quiet little place, and sheltered by hills in the rcor ; the

ROl'E FKBRY.

inhabitants are chiefly agriculturists, and the families of those employed
in canal navigation. HereBurgoyne halted, and encamped for two days,
after leaving his intrenched camp to confront Gates, while a working
party repaired the roads and bridges in advance to Wilbur's Basin, three
miles below. He then advanced, and pitched his tents at the latter place,
upon the narrow plain between the river and the hills, and upon the
slopes. Here ho also encamped on the morning after the first battle at
Bemis's Heights, the opening of a cloudy, dull, and cheerless day, that
harmonised ^ ith the feelings of the British commander. He felt con-

i*-i.

THE HUDSON.

vinccd that, without the aid of General Cliuton's co-opcratiou in drawing
off a part of the republican army to the defence of the country below, he
should not be able to advance. Yet he wrought diligently in strengthening
his position. He erected four redoubts, one upon cacli of four hills, two
above and two below Wilbur's Basin, and made lines of iatrcncbments
from them to the river, covering each with a battery. From this camp
he marched to battle on the 7tli of October, and in that engagement lost

bukooyke'S excampmem" (from a print ^vMlshel in London, in 1779).

his gallant friend. General Simon Frascr, who, at the head of five hundred
picked men, was the directing spirit of the British troops in action. This
was perceived by the American commanders, for Frascr's skill and courage
were everywhere conspicuous. "When the lines gave way, he brought
order out of confusion ; when regiments began to waver, ho infused
courage into them by voice and example. Ho was mounted upon a
splendid iron-grey gelding, and dressed in t^iC full uniform of a field
officer. Ho was thus made a conspicuous object for the mark of the
Americans.

It was evident that the fate of the battle depended upon General Fra^er,

THE HUDSON.

and this the keen eye and quick judgment of Colonel Morgan, commander
of a rifle corps from the south, perceived. A thought flashed through his
brain, and in an instant ho prepared to execute a deadly purpose. Calling
a file of his best men around him, he said, as he pointed toward the
British right wing, which was making its way victoriously, — ** That
gallant officer is General Praser; I admire and honour him, but it is
necessary he should die ; victory for the enemy depends upon him. Take
your stations in that clump of bushes, and do your duty." "Within five
mmutes after this order was given. General T/aser fell, and was carried

HOUSE IN WHICU QENEBAL FBASKR VIED.

from the field by two grenadiers. His aide-de-camp had just observed
that the general was a particular mark for the enemy, and said, — " Would
it not be prudent for you to retire from this place?" Fraser replied,
"My duty forbids me to fly from danger," and the next moment he fell.
About half way between Wilbur's Basin and Bemis's, stood, until
within twenty yoars, a rude building, the upper half somewhat projecting,
and every side of it battered and pierced by bullets. It was used by
Burgoyno as his quarters when ho first moved forward to attack Gates,

ill

THE HUDSON.

and tiiere the Baron Eeidesel had his quarters at the time of the battle of
the 7th of October. Thither the wounded Eraser was conveyed by his
grenadiers, and consigned to the care of the wife of the Brunswick
general.

"About four o'clock in the afternoon," says the baroness, "instead of
the guests [Burgoyne and Phillips] whom I expected to dinner. General
Fraser was brought on a litter mortally wounded. The table, which was
already set, was instantly removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the
wounded general. He said to the surgeon, * Tell me if my wound is

FnASEK'S DUBIAL-I'LACE.

mortal ; do not flatter me.' The ball had passed through his body, and,
unhappily for the general, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by which
the stomach was distended, and the ball, as the surgeon said, had passed
through it. I often heard him exclaim, with a sigh, * fatal ambition !
Poor General Burgoyne ! my dear wife ! ' He was asked if he had any
request to make, to which he replied, that, if General Burgoyne would
permit it, ho should like to be buried at six o'clock in the evening, on the
top of a mount, in a redoubt which had been built there."

100

THE HUDSON.

General Fraser died at eight o'clock the following morning, and was
buried in the redoubt upon the hill at six o'clock that evening, according
to his desire.* It was just at sunset, on a mild October evening, when
the funeral procession moved slowly up the hill, bearing the body of the
gallant dead. It was composed of only the members of his own military
family, the commanding generals, and Mr. Brudcnell, the chaplain ; yet
the eyes of hundreds of both armies gazed upon the scene. The Americanp,

NEILSOM'S HOUSE, BSMIB'S HEIGHTS.

ignorant of the true character of the procession, kept up a constant can-
nonade upon the redoubt, toward which it was moving. Undismayed,
the companions of Eraser buried him just as the evening shadows came
on. Before the impressive burial services of the Anglican Church were
ended, the irregular firing ceased, and the solemn voice of a single canon,
at measured intervals, boomed along the valley, and awakened responses
from the hills. It was a minute-gun, fired by the Americans in honour

• The redoubt was upon the middle one of the three billa seen in tlie picture of Burgoyne's
encampment.

TH'^ HUDSON.

101

of the accomplished soldier. When information reached the Republicans
that the gathering at the redoubt was a funeral company, fulfiUin- the
wishes of a brave officer, the cannonade with balls instantly ceased. °

Other gallant Bri'ish officers were severely wounded on that day one
of these was the accomplished Major Ackland, of the grenadiers, who was
accompanied in the campaign by his charming wife, the Lady Harriet
fifth daughter of Stephen, firet Earl of Ilchester, and gi-eat-grandmother
of the present Earl of Carnarvon. He was shot through both legs aud
conveyed to the house of Mr. Neilson, upon Semis's Heights, within the
American lines.

CHAPTER VI.

I HE heroic Lady Ackland had listened to the thunder of
the battle in which her husband was engaged, and
when, on the morning of the 8th, the British fell back
in confusion toward "Wilbur's Basin, she, with the
other women, was obliged to take refuge among the
dead and dying, for the tents were all sttuck, and hardly a shed
was left standing. Then she was informed that her husband was
wounded and a prisoner. She instantly sought the advice of her
•- friend, the Baroness Eeidesel, and resolved to visit the Amcrif an
camp, and implore the privilege of a personal attendance upon her husband.
She sent a mfsage by Lord Petersham to Burgoyne, asking his permission
to depart. The general was astonished that, after all she had endured
from exposure to cold, hunger, and heavy rain, she should be capable of
such an undertaking. " The assistance I was enabled to give," he said,
" was small indeed. I had not even a cup of wine to offer her; but I
was told she had found, from some kind and fortunate hand, a little rum
and dirty water. All I could furnish to her was an open boat, and a few
lines written upon dirty wet paper, to General Gates, recommending her
to his protection." *

Lady Harriet set out in an open boat on the Hudson, accompanied by
Chaplain Brudenell, her waiting-maid, and her husband's valet, who had

* Tlie following is a copy of BurRoyno's note to Gates : —

Sir, — liudy ITan-iet Acklmul, u lady of the first distinction of family, rank, and personal virtues, is
under such concern on account of Mnjor Ac.land, her husband, woinided and a prisoner in your hands,
that I caiuiot refuse her request to coininit her to your protection. Whatever general impropriety there
may be in persons of my situation and yours to solicit favours, I cannot see the uncommon perseverance
in eveiy female grace and exaltation of character of this lady, and her very hard fortune, without
testifying that your atteutiou to her will lay me under obligations.

I om, Sir, your obedient servant,

J. Burgoyne.
Tliis note is preserved among >.tatcs'8 manuscript papers, in the collection of tlie New York Historical
Society.

THE HUDSON.

103

been severely wounded while searching for his master on the battle-field.
They started at sunset, in the midst of a violent storm of wind and rain.
It was long after dai'k when they reached the American outposts, and
there they were detained, in a comfoi-table position, until orders should
be received from head-quarters. Early in the morning she received the
joyful tid'ngs that her husband was safe. At the same time she was
treated with paternal kindness by General Gates, who sent her to her
husband at Neilson's house, under a suitable escort. She found him
suffering, but well tr' on care of, in the portion of the house occupied as

BOOM OCCUPIED BY MAJOR ACKLAM).

quarters by General Poor, and there she remained until Major Ackland
was removed to Albany, and finally to New York.*

From the house of Mr. Neilson, whose descendants now occupy it, a
fine view of the surrounding countiy may be obtained. On the north and
west, beginning at its very doors, lies the entire battle-ground of the 19th
of September ; and bounding the horizon in the distance beyond, are the
Luzerne Mountains (already mentioned), through which flow the waters
of the Tipper Hudson. On the east rise Willard's Mountain, the heights
of Bennington, the Green Mountains, and the famous Mount Tom ; and
stretching away in the blue distances towards Albany, are seen the gentle
hills and beautiful valley of the Hudson. And there the visitor may see

* Major Ackland died in November, 1778. On her retuiii to England, a portrait of Lady Harriet,
standing in a boat, with a white hamlkerfhief in her hand as a flag of truce, was exliibited ut the Boyul
Aeatlemy (London), from which a iilato was afterwards engraved. The person of her ladyship was
spoken of aa " higlily graceful and delicate," and her manners " elegantly feminine."

104

THE HUDSON.

many relics from the battle-field, turned up by the plough, such as
cannon-balls, bullets, Indian tomahawks and knives, rusty musket barrels,
bayonets, halberds, military buttons, pieces of money, et csetera.

At the foot of Bemis's Heights, where the old tavern of Bemis —
famous for good wines and long pipes, a spacious ball-room and a rich
larder — once stood, a pleasant hamlet has grown up. It is one of the
numerous offsprings of the canal. Two miles below it, at the head of
long rapids, is Stillwater, the most pleasing in situation and appearance
of all the villages in the valley of the Upper Hudson. It is otherwise
remarkable only for a long, gloomy, and unsightly covered toll-bridge,
which, resting upon several huge piers, spans the Hudson ; and also as

BELICS FBOM THE BATTLE-FIELD.

the head-quarters of the republican army, for a short time, in the summer
of 1777, after they had retreated down the valley before victorious
Burgoyne. The house of Derrick Swart, where General Schuyler had
his quarters at that time, was yet standing in the upper part of the village,
and awakened in the mind of the historical student recollections of a scene
that occuiTed there at a most gloomy period of the campaign. The army,
wretchedly furnished and daily diminishing, had retreated before an
exultant foe; food, clothing, and artillery were all wanting. The
pecuniary resources and public credit of the continental congress were
failing, and all the future seemed dark. At that mtaient intelligence
came that Colonel St. Leger, who had been sent up the St. Lawrence by
Burgoyne, with instructions to cross Lake Ontario to Oswego, penetrate

THE HUDSON.

105

the Mohawk valley from that point, form an alliance with the Tories and
Indians, and press forward to Albany with destructive energy, had actually
appeared heforc Fort Schuyler, where the village of Kome now stands.
The people of the Mohawk valley were wild with consternation, and sent
swift messengers to General Schuyler, imploring immediate assistance.
The prudent foresight and far-reaching humanity of that officer at once
dictated his course. He called a council of officers at his quarters, and
proposed sending a detachment immediately to the relief of Fort Schuyler.

SKBBICK BWABl'S HOUSE AT STILLWATEB.

They opposed him with the argument that his whole force was insufficient
to stay the progress of Burgoyne Schuyler persisted in his opinion, and
earnestly besought them to second his views. His political enemies had
already sown the seeds of distrust concerning his intentions ; and as he
was pacing the floor in anxious solicitude, he heard from one of his
subordinate officers the half- whispered remark, ** He means to weaken
the army." Never was a thought more iinjust and ungenerous ! "Wheeling
suddenly toward the slanderer and those ai'ound him, and unconsciously
biting into several pieces a pipe that he was smoking, Schuyler indignantly

106

THE HUDSON.

excluimed, "Gentlemen, I shall take the responsibility upon myself;
where is the brigadier that will take command of the relief ? I shall
beat up for volunteers to-morrow."

The brave and impulsive Arnold, who afterwards became a traitor, at
once stepped forward. The next morning, when the drum beat for
volunteers, no less than eight hundred strong men offered their servif^es.
They were enrolled ; Fort Schuyler was saved, and the forces of St. Leger
scattered to the winds. In after years the recollection of those burning
words of calumny always stiiTcd the spirit of the veteran patriot with
violent emotions ; for if ever a bosom glowed with true devotion to his
country, it was that of Philip Schuyler.

From Stillwater to Troy at the Lead of free sloop navigation, a distance
of about sixteen miles, the Hudson flows in a rapid stream, sometimes
turbulent, but generally with a placid current. The valley, maintaining
the same average width and general aspect, becomes richer in numerous
farm-houses and more careful cultivation as we approach the cluster of
large towns whose church spires maybe seen soon after leaving Mcchanics-
villo iind Half-Moon, two pleasant little villages on the west bank of the
Hudson. These are in the township of Half-Moon, so called in memory
of H(ndrick Hudson's famous yacht, in which he discovered the river
that bears his name. They are a short distance below Stillwater. The
Champlain Canal and the Rensselaer and Saratoga Hallway pass through
them. On the site of the latter village stood "y" ftbrt of y" Half-Moon,
about y® house and barne of Harm"^ Lieves® " — a stockade for defence
against the Indians. It was removed in the year 1G89.

The summer drive upon the public road in this part of the valley is
delightful. The plain and slopes have the appearance of a garden ; while
the hills on both sides present sweet pictures of mingled forest and culti-
vated fields, enlivened by small flocks and herds, and dotted with the
homes of a thrifty people. But the river appears solitary. Not a boat
may be seen upon it, until Waterford is passed, for the current is too
swift for navigation. " The water in the river here," wrote Kalm, the
Swedish naturalist aad traveller, in his journal, more than one hvmdred
yeai's ago, "was very clear, and generally shallow, being only from two
to four feet deep, running very violently against us in most places."

THE HUDSON.

107

Between Mechanicsville and "Waterford, near the junction of two rail-
ways, the viaduct of the Vermont Central Kailroad, twelve hundred feet
in length, stretches across the Hudson. It is constructed of square
timber, and rests upon hcavj stone piers, besides the shore abutments.
From that point to Waterford, the river views from the highway are very
picturesque, and when within half a mile of that large village upon Half-
Moon Point, at a bend in the stream, the traveller obtains a sight of
Waterford and Lansingburgh, on opposite sides of the river, with the

VIADUCT OF THE VEBMONT CENTBAI, RAILWAY,

covered toll-bridge that connects them. The church spires of Troy are
also seen, and in dim blue outline, in the extreme southern horizon,
appear the higher spurs of the Katzbergs, or Catskill Mountains.

Waterford is a very pleasant town, at the confluence of the Mohawk
and Hudson rivers, and had then a little more than three thousand
inhabitants. It stands upon the level bank of the Hudson, Most of its
streets are fringed with the maple and elm, the favourite shade trees
in the northern and eastern villages and cities of the United States. It
is a young town, compared with Lansingburgh, its still more pleasant

■ IMflftnMCfhM

fii!mtismb;-,nfc. >ja

108

THE HUDSON.

neighbour across the river, which was dignified with the title of New
City as early as 1788, when its now stately rival, Troy, could not hoapfc
of half-a-dozen houses, and was known only as Vanderheyden, or Ashley's
Ferry. It has outstripped that older town in population, and equals it
in enterprise. Between them the current of the Hudson is strong, yet
vessels laden with merchandise ascend to the wharves of each, with the

WATERFORD AND IiANSINaBUBQB BRISQE.

aid of small steam- tugs, which tow them from the draw of the great
bridge at Troy, two miles below.

At Waterford the ear cntchcs the subdued roar of Cohoes Falls * in the
Mohawk river, three-fourths of a mile distant. That stream is the largest
tributary of the Hudson. It flows eastward, with a rapid current most
of the way, from Oneida County, in the interior of the State of New
York, through one of the richest agricultural regions in the world, for
about one hundred and thirty-five miles, and enters the Hudson in four

* Ciik-hoos, nn Iroquois wonl, according to Brant, (!io great Molmwk cliief, Bignifying a canoe
falling.

THE HUDSON.

109

channels, formed by three islands, named rf spectively, Van Hover's, Van
Schaick's, or Cohoes, and Green or Tibbett's Islands. Van Schaick's
alonQ, which is almost inaccessible at many points, because of i<^3 high
rocky shores, has escaped the transforming hand of improvement. There,
in the summer of 1777, General Schuyler cast up some fortifications, with
the determination to dispute with Burgoyne the passage of the Mohawk.
Faint traces of those intrenchments may yet be seen ; and, in the spring of
1860, a large zinc cai'tridge-box was found in that vicinity, supposed to
have been left when General Schuyler moved northward. The banks of
Van Schaick's are steep, a forest of evergreens clothes a large portion of its
surface, and only a solitary barn indicates its cognizance by man.

Green Island, the larger of the three, stretcjies along the upper part of
Troy, and is a theatre of industry for a busy population, engaged chiefly
in manufactures, or in emp^yments connected with railways. There
was the immense establishment of Messrs. Eaton, Gilbert, & Co. (after-
ward destroyed by fire), the most extensive manufacturers of railway
can-iagcs, omnibuses, and ctage coaches in the United States, if not in the
world.

The scenery about the mouth of the Mohawk, particularly in the
vicinity of Cohoes Falls, is exceedingly picturesque, and at some points
really grand. A highway bridge, nine hundred feet in length, and a
railway viaduct still longer, cross the river over the rapids a short distance
below the falls. From the former, a fine distant view of the cataract ainl
the rapids below may be obtained ; but the best places to observe them in
all their beauty and grandeur, arc at and near the Cataract House, in the
village of Cohoes, which stands upon the summit verge of a precipice one
hundred and seventy feet in height. Down a steep slope of that precipice,
for about fifty leet, the proprietor has constructed a flight of steps, and
upon the top of a broad terrace at their foot he has planted a flower garden,
for tbo enjoyment of visitors. Around its edge, from which may bo
obtained a view of the entire cataract, is a railing Avith scuts, and there
the visitor may contemplate at ease the wild scene on every hand. On
his left, as ho gazes up the river, rush large streams of water from the
top of the precipice above him, in almost perpendicular currents, from the
wapte-sluices of a canal, which, commencing at a dam almost two miles

110

THE HUDSON.

above the falls, conveys water to numerous mill-wheels in the village.
By this means immense hydraulic power is obtained and distributed.*

VIEW AT COHOES FALLS.

The width of the grand cataract of Cohoes is nine hundred feet, and
the fall seventy-eight feet, of whicJi about forty are perpendicular.

* Tlie watcr-iKiwcr nt Coliocs wns muler tho eoiitml f a stock compniiy, who rented it to the pro-
prictorg of iiiillH nnd factorioH. Tho entiio fall of water controlled by the conpany was one hundred and
twenty feel ; nml the minimnin supply of water was one thousand cubio feet each second. The estimated
value of the various articles niauufacturod tliere at tliot time, was newly tlireo millions of dollars
per annum.

! '>: \i

THE HUDSON.

Ill

Below the fall, the water rushes over a rocky bed, in foaming rapids,
between high banks, to the plain, where the islands divide it into
channels, and through these it flows gently into the Hudson. It was a
beautiful afternoon in early spring when we visited the falls. The water
was abundant, for the • snow upon the hills that border the charming
valley of the Mohawk was rapidly melting, and filled the river to the
brim. "We never saw the cataract in more attractive foiin, and left it
with reluctance when tne declining sun admonished us to ride back to
Waterford, for we intended to cross the long bridge there, pass through
Lansingburgh, and lodge that night in Troy. It was just at sunset when
we crossed the bridge and entered the beautiful avenue which leads
through Lanbingburgh, into the heart of Troy. Through the village it is
shaded with stately elms, and along the whole distance of two miles
between that " New City" of the past and modem Troas, it follows the
bank of the river in a straight line, and affords a most delightful diive in
summer.

In the upper suburb of Troy we came to a mass of rock rising a few
yards from the avenue to the height of fifty or sixty feet, with a tall,
crooked sapling shooting up from its summit, which had been placed
there for a flagstaff. The classical taste which gave the name of the city
built where the dappled heifer ot Ilus lay down, to this modem town,
when it was little more than a hamlet, and which dignified the irregular
hill that overlooks it with the title of Mount Ida (called Ida Hill by the
inhabitants), named this rocky peak Mount Olympus. "We saw nothing
upon its ** awful summit " to remind us of the Thcsalian dwelling-place
of the gods ; and the apparition nearest to that of '* Olympian Jove "
(whom the artists portrayed in human form) that we saw in the fadir g
twilight, was a ragged boy, with a cigar in his mouth, vainly endeavour-
ing to climb the sapling.

The peak of Olympus was once much higher. It has been carried
away from time to time to furnish materials for docks, and in strengthening
the dam, twelve hundred feet in length, which the State built across the
Hudson at this point to fumish a feeder to the Champluin Canal. The
water at the dam has a fall of about twelve feet, and at the east end is a
heavy lock, constructed of hewn sione, through which sloops and other

-J*g^Jj^ji«

112

THE HUDSON.

vessels are taken into the river above, and towed by steam- tugs, as we
have observed, up to Lansingburgh and "Waterford. Just above the dam,
and near ''Yaterford, there is a communication between the canal and the
river, and many loaded boats from the former there enter the latter, pass
through the lock, and arc towed, some to Troy and Albany, and others to
New York. The dam also furnishes water power to a number of mills
on the Troy shore below it, into which grain is taken from vessels lying
at the docks, by means of "elevators" worked by the water wheels.
These form a striking feature in the scene below the dam.

From the lock may be obtained an excellent view of the river below,

LOCK AT STAtE DAM, TROV,

with the last of the bridges that th„n spanned the Hudson. Since then
a railway-bridge has been thrown across it at Albany, six miles below.
Glimpses of Troy, and "Watervliet or "West Troy opposite, and of the
Katzbergs, thirty miles distant, were obtained from the same point of
view. The Tin Bridge was sixteen hundred feet in length, and
connected Green Island with the main, having a draw at the eastern end
for vessels to pass through. It was used as a public highway in crossing
the river, and also as a viaduct of the Eensselaer and Saratoga Railway.
It was built of timber, was closely covered, and rested upon heavy stone
piers. It crossed where formerly lay a group of beautiful little islands,
when Troy was in its infancy. They have almost disappeared, except

THE HUDSON.

113

the larger one, which is bisected by the bridge. Among these islands
shad and sturgeon, fish that abound in every part of the river below, were
caught in large quantities, but they are seldom seen there now.

Troy, the capital of llcnsselacr County, is six miles above Albany, at
the head of tide- water, one hundred and fifty-one miles from the city of
New York. It is a port cf entry, and its commerce is very extensive for
an inland town. It is seated upon a plain between the foot of Mount Ida
and the river. It ha3 crept up that hill in some places, but very
cautiously, because the earth is unstable, and serious avalanches have
from time to time occurred. Its site Avas originally known as FeiTy
Hook, then Ashley's Ferry,* and finally Vandorheyden, the name of the
first proprietor of the soil on which Troy stands, after it was conveyed in
fee from the Patroon o? Eensslaerwyck, in the year 1720. After the
Ilevolution the spot attracted some attention u'3 an eligible village site.
Town lots were laid out there in the summer of 1787, and two years
afterward the freeholders of the embryo city, at a meeting in Albany,
resolved that " in future it should be called and known by the name of
Troy." At the same time, with the prescience of observing men, they
said— * It may not be too sanguine to expect, at no very distant period,
to see Troy as famoua for her trade and navigation as many of our first
towns." It was incorporated a village in 1801, and a city in 1816.

From the beginning Troy was a rival of Lansingburgh. It was settled
chiefly by enterprising New England people. They perceived the
advantages of their location at the head of tide-water and sloop naviga-
tion, between two fine streams (Pocsten Kill and Wynant's Kill) that
flow in wild cascades from Mount Ida and its connections, aflPording

• Stephen Asliley ke rt the first tavern at the ferry, in tlio furm-houso of Matthiiui Viinderhoyden, on
the Bonth-eiist corner of Hiver and Division Streets. It is the oldest house in Troy, liaviiig been built
ns early ox 1752. On the front of the house, between the two
windows on the left, was a brick, on which was cut " a V H. A.I>.
17.52." The initials stood for Derick (Uichurd) Viuiderheyden.
Tlie D was reversed. Between the second window on the left and
t'.e door was another brick inscribed "M V H. 1752." These were
the initials of Mattliias Vandcihcyden. .South of thn window on
the risht, and a little above it, was uiu)ther brick inscril)ed "IV II
1752." These were the initials of Jacob Vanderhcydcn. Matthias
occupied this, and the oilier two built houses elsewhere on the
plot. Ashley afterward kept an iini at the comer of Kiver and Fon-j' Streets. On his sign was a por-
trait of Washington, and tlie words " Why here's Asliley'" "

VANDEBIIEVUKN HOUSE.

114

THE HUDSON.

extensive water power. After a hard struggle, Troy was made the county-
scat, and the court-house was erected there, and from that time the
growth of Lansingburgh was slow, whilst Troy increased with wonderful
rapidity. The former had 6,000 inhabitants in 1860, and the lattov
almost 50,000. It has always been conspicuous for well-directed and
associated public spirit, am its institutions of learning are among the
best in the land. The most noted of these are the Hensselaer Institute,
founded and endowed by the late Stephen Van Rensselaer of the Manor,

BEXSSKLAElt ANl) SAKATO'JA EAILWAV l)lUD(iK.

the Troy Female Scraiaary, and the Troy University. Tlie latter was
established under the auspices of the Methodist denomination, but the
funds for the building were liberally subscribed by men of various sects.
It stands upon Mount Ida, and is the most conspicuous object in a view
of the city seen from any point. In its immediate vicinity are beautiful
residences, which command extensive and interesting pictures of town
and country. In their chaste and modest style of architecture, they
present Btriking contrasts to the more meretricious « Byzantine stylo" of
the University.

THE HUDSON.

115

Opposite Troy is the bustling village of West Troy (formerly Water-
vliot), with a population of about 9,000 in 1860. At the south end of
the village, and occupying a front of a quarter of a mile along the
Avcst bank of the Hudson, is the United States Military establishment
called the Watervliet Arsenal. It was one of the largest of the six
principal establishments then belonging to the United States, where,
under the direction of the Ordnance Department, were manufactured the
arms and munitions of war required for the use of the army and the

VXJ:;W OJT XitUi' iWii. MuV.M il>A.

militia before the Civil War. About twelve acres of land were purchased
ut that point by the United States, in 1813, for arsenal purposes, and the
group of buildings seen in the sketch was erected. The grounds com-
prised about one hundred acres, part covered with necessary buildings and
a parade, and the remainder was under cultivation. About two hundred
yards west of the highway, the Eric Caual passed through the grounds,
and was spanned by a picturesque iron bridge near the ofticcrs' quarters.
Along the river front was a double row of stately elm trees, whose
branches form a leafy arch over the higlnvay in summer. From these the

116

THE HUDSON.

green-sward bank slopes gently toward the river, and affords a delightful
promenade on summer afternoons.*

The highway along the plain from West Albany is a fine macadamised

irSlTJiD STAlliS AlijL.N.LL AX \V.VIEiiVi.llil'.

road, with the Erie Canal, the Hudson, and the amphitheatre of the
Greenbush heights on the left. The hills on the right are" near, and

* I was imk'UleJ to Iho courtusy of Lieutenant George T. liulcli, then statioued there, for the
following facts: — "As the necessity for greater manufacturing facilities arose, additional lands were
purchased, and extensive shops, storehouses, tunlier-sheds, magazines, barracks and quarters, were
erected "■om time to time, until at the present (1860), the real estate and the improvements are valued
at 500,000 dollars, and the military stores and suijplios collected, in the vaiious huildings, at 1,500,000.
The principal operations carried on are the manufac'ure of heavy artillery carriages for the sea-coast
forts, with all the requisite implements and equipmentii ; carnages for siege trains and field batteries,
with their equipments and harness ; all machines used in transporting and repairing artillery ; ammu-
nition of all kinds for sea-coast, siege, and field guns, and for small anns, and the repair and preservation
of the large quantity of material of war in store. The shops comprise all requisite facilities for the
various mechanics employed, as well as a convenienlly arranged and roomy laboratory. The motive
power is water, furnished by the Erie Canal. Under oi-dinary circumstances from 110 to 150 workmen
are employed, but, when the exigencies of the service demand it, 500 to 600 can easily be accommodated.
The establishment i;* under the control of a field officer of the ordnance department, assisted by subalterns
of the same, a military storekeeper and paymaster, who is a civilian, and the requisite master, work-
men. &c. Forty enlisted Ordnance men are at present stationed at the post, who perfonn the necessary
guard duty and drills, and arc at other times variously engaged in out-of-door and mechanical employ-
ments. The United States have exclusive control of the grounds included within the arsenal enclosure,
the State exercising only concurrent jurisdiction in civil actions and criminal cases."

pleasant mansions and fertile acres are seen on every side. There is a
house a mile and a half below the arsenal, scarcely visible from the road
because of trees and shrubbery which conceal it, and, when seen, it would
not attract special attention, excepting for the extreme plainness and
antiquated style of its architecture. A pleasant lane leads to it from the
canal, and the margin of the sloping lawn on its river front, over which
stately elms cast their shadows, is swept by the Hudson's tide. It is
famous in colonial history as the residence of Colonel Peter Schuyler, of

SCULVLtlt UOtSii AX XUK iLA'lS.

the Flats, the first Mayor of Albany, and who, as Indian Commissioner,
in after years took four kings or sachems, of the Mohawks, to England,
and presented them at the court of Queen Anne. After his death his
son Philip, the well-beloved of the Mohawks, wlio married his sweet
cousin Katrina — the "Aunt Schuyler" immortalised by Mrs. Grant, of
Laggan, in her charming pictures of "Albany Society a Hundred Years
Ago" — resided there, and with ample resources dispensed hospitality
with a bounteous hand. And yet this is not the identical house in which
the mayor lived, and his son Philip entertained friends and strangers, but
the one built upon its ruins, in the same style, the summer days of which

are so charmingly portrayed by Mrs. Grant. The old one was consumed
by fire in the summer of 1759, when Philip had been dead eighteen
months, and " Aunt Schuyler," his widow, whoso waist he spanned with
his hands when they were married forty years before, had grown to such
enormous dimensions, that a chair was made for her special use. In
that chair she was seated, under the cherry-trees in the lane, one hot day
in August, when the eminent Colonel John Bradstreet, riding up, gave
her the first intimation tluit her house wa3 on fire. With calmness she
kept her seat, and gave directions to her servants and neighbours how to
check the flames, and to save her most valued articles. Before evening
the blackened brick walls were all that were left of that pleasant mansion.
Aunt Schuyler had a larger house in Albany, but she took shelter with
her husband's deaf brother Peter, who lived upon the hills near by.

Intelligence of the disaster brought ^he people from all quarters. They
testified their lo',e for " Aunt Schuyler " by offering their services. In a
few days materials for a new house were collected. Colonel Bradstreet
sent up some of the king's troops then stationed iu Albany to assist in
building, and the part of the house seen on the right in the picture, was
completed for use before the winter set in. Over the yawning cellars of
the late mansion a broad wooden bridge was built, furnished with seats
like a portico. "This," says Mrs. Grant, "with the high walls of the
ancient house, which were a kind of screen before the new one, gave the
whole the appearance of an ancient ruin."'"' Aunt Schuyler removed
to her house in Albany, and leased the homestead ; and, a few years
later, the present house was built. In it a part of the old walls may be
seen. It was owned when I visited it by Stephen E. Schuyler, Esq., a
descendant of the mayor. His brother, John C. Schuyler, living upon
the gentle hills near by, possessed a finely-executed portrait of that
earliest chief magistrate of the city of Albany.

As we approach Albany from the Flats, and reach the boimdai'ics of
"the Colonic,"! the river shores are seen covered with huge piles of
lumber, and lined with vessels of almost every kind. The ear catches
the distant hum of a large town and the jangle of steamboat bells, Avhilc

* '• Minmir? of r.n Anici'icaii L:'.'ly,'' by JIiv. Oiuii', i;f Lii:.piii.

t So iiuiued because it was the seat of tlio ancient colony of Uenuselacrwyck.

THE HUDSON.

119

the city itself, built upon hills and slopes, is more than half concealed by
the lofty trees which surround the manor house of the Van Rensselaer
family in the northern part of the city. This is one of the most
attractive town residences in the State. The mansion, erected in 1765,
and recently somewhat modified in external appearance, stands within a
park of many acres, beautified by the hand of taste. It is adorned with
llowers and shrubbery, and its pleasant Avalks are shaded by grand old
trees, some of which -were, doubtless, planted or were forest saplings, two

VAN BEN83ELAEK MAXOI! KOISE-

hundred years or more ago, when the first Patroonh mansion, -with its
reed-covered roof, was erected there. Through the grounds flows Mill
Creek, a clear stream that comes down from the hills on the west, through
the once sweet vale of Tivoli, where, until the construction of a railway
effaced it, the music of a romantic cascade — the Falls of Tivoli — was
heard.

The reader may inquire why the proprietor of this estate was called
the Patrootif and invested with manorial title and privileges, llistovy
furnishes an answer in this wise : — The Dutch West India Company,
having made all proper aiTangements for colonising Ifew Netherlands, as

120

THE HUDSON.

New York was then called, passed a charter of privileges and exemptions
in 1629, for the encouragement of Patroona, or patrons, to make settle-
ments. It was provided that every I'atroon, to whom privileges and
exemptions should bo granted, should, within four years after the
establishment of a colony, have there, as permanent residents, at least
fifty persons over fifteen years of age, one-fourth of whom should bo
located within the first year. Such privileges were granted to Killian
Van Rensselaer, a pearl merchant of Amsterdam, and one of the directors
of the West India Company, and by his direction the commissary and
under commissary of Fort Orange, around whose site the city of Albany
now stands, purchased of the Indians a tract of land in that vicinity.
Another district was afterwards purchased, and Killian Yan Rensselaer
and three others became the proprietors of a tract of land, twenty-four
miles long, upon each side of the Hudson, and forty-eight miles broad,
containing over 700,000 acres of land, and comprising the present
counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and a part of Columbia. Yan Rensselaer
held two shares, and the others one share each. They were his equals in
privileges and exemptions, except in the title of Patroon, which, with all
the feudal honours, was vested in him alone, the partners binding them-
selves to do fealty and homage for the fief on his demise, in the name and
on behalf of his son and heirs. The manor did not become the solo
property of the Yan Rensselaer family until 1685.

The Patroon -was invested with power to administer civil and criminal
justice, in person or by deputy, within his domain, and, to some extent,
he was a sort of autocrat. These powers were abolished when the English
took possession of the province in 1664, and with it fell many of the
special privileges, but, by the English law of primogeniture, that princely
domain, farmed out to r.vi ly tenants, remained in the family until the
Revolution in 1775, and 1 he title of Patroon was held by the late General
Stephen Yan Rensselaer, until his death, early in 1840, when it expired.
A great portion of the manor has passed out of the hands of the Yan
Rensselaer family.

CHAPTER VII.

II E grounds around Van Rensselaer Manor House extend
from Broadway to the river, and embrace a large
garden and conservatoiy. There in the midst vf
rural sccnciy, the sounds of a swift-running brook,
and almost the quietude of a sylvan retreat, the "lord
of the manor of Rensselacrwyck," the lineal descendant of
Killian, the pearl merchant, and first Patroon, was living when
our sketch was made in elegant but unostentatious style — a simple
Republican, without the feudal title of his pvop'^nitors, except
by courtesy. Within the mansion are collected some exquisite works of
Art, and family portraits extending in regular order back to the first
Patroon. At the head of the great staircase leading from the spacious
liall to the chambers was a portion of the
illuminated window which, for one hun-
dred and ninety years, occupied a place
in the old Dutch Church that stood in
the middle of State Street, at its inter-
section by Broadway. It bears the arms
of the Van Rensselaer family, which were
placed in the church by the son of
Killian.

That old church, a sketch of which,
with the appearance of the neighbourhood
at the time of Its demolition in 1805, is
seen in our picture, was a curiously
arranged place of worship. It was bulit
of stone, in 1715, over a smaller one
erected in 1656, in which the congrega-
tion continued to worship, until the new one was roofed. There was an
interruption in the stated worship for only three Sabbaths. It had a low

VAN REMSSELAER'S ARMS.

122

THE HUDSON.

galbry, and the huge stove used in heating the building was placed upon
a platform so high, that the sexton went upon it from th. gallery to
kindle the fire, implying a belief in those days that heated air descended,
instead of ascending, as we are now taught by the philosophers. The
pulpit was made of carved oak, octagonal in form, and in front of it was a
bracket, on which the minister placed his hour-glass, when he commenced
preaching. From the pulpit shone in succession those lights of the
Eefonned Dutch Church in America, Dominies Schaats, Deiius, the land
speculator, Lydius, Vandriesscn, Yan Schie, Frelinghuyscn, Westcrlo,

OLD DUTCH CBVBCH IN ALBANY.

and /ohnson. And from it the Gospel is still preached in Albany. "With
its bracket, it occupies a place in the North Dutch Church, in that city.

The bell-rope of the old church hung down in the centre of the building,
and upon that cord tradition has suspended many a tale of trouble for
ifynheer Brewer, one of its sextons, who lived in North Pearl Street.
He went to the church every night at eight o'clock, pursuant to orders,
to ring the '* suppawn bell." This was the signal for the in'aabitants to
cat their " suppawn," or hasty -pudding, and prepare for bed. It was

equivalent in its office to the old English curfev/ bell. On these occasions
the wicked boys would sometimes tease the old bell-ringer. They would
slip stealthily into the church while he was there with his dim lantern,
unlock the side door, hide in some dark corner, and when the old man
was fairly seated at home, and had his pipe lighted for a last smoke, they
would ring the bell furiously. Down to the old church the sexton would
hasten, the boys would slip out at the side door before his arrival, and tho
old man would return home thoughtfully, musing upon the probability
of invisible hands pulling at his bell-rope — those

" People— all, the people.
They that dwell up in the steeple

All alone ;
And who, tollinji, tolling, tolling,

In that muffled monotone,
Feel a glory in so rolling

On the human heart a stone ;

They are neither man nor woman,

They are neither brute nor human,

They are ghouls ! "

Albany wore a quaint aspect until the beginning of tho present century,
on account of the predominance of steep-roofed houses, with their terraced
gables to tho street. A fair specimen is given in our Street View in
Ancien J Albany, which shows the appearance of the town at tho intersec-
tion of North Pearl and State Streets, sixty years ago. The house at the
nearer corner was built as a parsonage for the Rev. Gideon Sohaats, who
arrived in Albany in 1652. The materials were imported from Holland,
— bricks, tiles, iron, and wood- work, — and were brought, with the churcli
bell and pulpit, in 1657. " When I was quite a lad," says a late writer,
" I visited the house r/ith my mother, who was acquainted with the
father of Balthazar Lydius, the last proprietor of the mansion. To my
eyes it appeared like a palace, and I thought the pewter plates in a corner
cupboard wore solid silver, they glittered so. xhe partitions were made
of mahogany, and the exposed beams were ornamv. itcd with carvings in
high relief, representing the vine and fruit of tho gi\»pe. To show the
relief more perfectly, tho beams were painted white. Balthazar was an
eccentric old bachelor, and was the terror of all the boys. Strange
storioir almost us dreadful as tlioso which cluster around tho nanio of
Bluebeai'd, were told of his fierceness on some occasions; and tho urchins,

124

THE HUDSON.

when tliey saw him in the streets, would give him the whole side-walk,
for he made theni think of the ogre, gi'owling out his

' Fee, fo, funi,
I smell the blood of an Gnglistinian.'

He was a tall, spare Dutchman, with a bullet head, spiinklcd with thin
white hair in his latter years. He was fond of his pipe and ui" bottle,
and gloried in his celibacy, until his life was ' in the sere and yellow leaf.'

HrUKll.T \it.\V i.V A.Nl-llll.M' ALUAAi.

Then he gave a pint of gin for a squaw (an Indian woman), and calling
her his wife, lived with her as such until his death.**

On the opposite corner was seen an elm-tree, yet standing in 1860, but
of statelier proportions, which was planted more than a hundred years
before by Philip Livingston, one of the signers of the Declaration of
Independence, whose dwelling v/as next to the corner. It was a monu-
ment to the planter, more truly valued of the Albanians in the heats of
summer, than would be the costliest pile of brass or marble.

Further up the street is seen a large building, with two gables, which
was known as the Yanderheyden Palace. It is a good specimen of the

external uppearat . of the better class of houses erected by the Dutch in
Albany. It was built in 1725, by Johannes Beekman, one of tho old
burghers of that city ; and was purchased, in 1778, by one of tho Vandcr-
hoydens of Troy, who, for many years, lived there in tho style of the old
Dutch aristocracy- On account of its size, it was dignified with the title
of palace. It figures in Washington Irving's story of Dolph Ileyliger, in
"Bracebridge Hall," as the residence of Hecr Anthony VandcrheyJcn ;

V.VNililUlll'.VDK.N J'AL.U'K.

and when Mr. Irving transformed the old farmhouse of Van Tassel into
his elegant Dutch cottage at " Sunny side," he made the southern gable
an exact imitation of that of the palace in Albany. And tho iron vane,
in tho form of a horse at full speed, that turned for a century upon one of
the gables of the Vanderhcyden Palace, now occupies tho peak of that
southern gable at delightful " Sunnysidc."

Kalm, the Swedish traveller, who visited Albany in 1748 and 1749,
says in his Journal, — " The houses in this town are very neat, and part.y
built with stones, covered with shingles of the white pine. Some arc
slated with tiles from Holland. Most '^f tho houses are built in the old

126

THE HUDSON.

way, with the gable-end toward the street ; a few excepted, whicli were

lately built in the manner now used The gutters on the roofs

reach almost to the middle of the street. This preserves the walls from
being damaged by the rain, but it is extremely disagreeable in rainy
weather for the people in the streets, there being hardly any means for
avoiding the water from the gutters. The street doors are generally in
the middle of the houses, and on both sides are seats, on which, during
fair weather, the people spend almost the whole day, especially on those
which arc in the shadow of the house^. In the evening these seats are
covered with people of both sexes ; but this is rather troublesome, as those
who pass by arc obliged to greet everybody, unless they will shock the
politeness of the inhabitants of the town."

Kalm appears to have had some unpleasant experiences in Albaily, and
in his Journal gave his opinion very freely concerning the inhabitants.
" The avarice and selfishness of the inhabitants of Albany," he says, " are
very avcII known throughout all North America. If a Jew, who under-
stands the art of getting forward perfectly well, should settle amongst
them, they would not fail to ruin him ; for this reason, no one comes to
this place without the most pressing necessity." He complains that ho
" was obliged to pay for everything twice, thrice, and four times as dear
as in any other part of North America" which he had passed through.
If he wanted any help, ho !.ad to pay "exorbitant prices for their
services," and yet he says he found some exceptions among them. After
due reflection, he came to the following conclusion respecting " the
origin of the inhabitants of Albany and its neighbourhood. Whilst the
Dutch possessed this country, and intended to people it, the government
took u^i a pack of vagabonds, of which they intended to clear the country,
and sent them, along with a number of other settlers, to this province.
The vagabonds were sent far from the other colonists, upon the borders
toward the Indians and other enemies ; and a few honest families were
persuaded to go with them, in order to ^'"cep tliem in bounds. I cannot
in any otlier way account for the difference between the inhabitants of
Albany and the other descendants of so respectable a nation as the
Dutch."

Albany was settled by the Dutch, and is the oldest of the permanent

THE HUDSON.

127

European settlements in the United States. Hudson passed its site in the
Half-Moon, in the early autumns of 1609 ; and the next year Dutch
navigators built trading-houses there, to traffic for furs with the Indians.
In 1614 they erected a stockade fort on an island near. It was swept
away by a spring freshet in 1617. Another was built on the main : it
was abandoned in 1623, and a stronger one erected in what is now
Broadway, below State Street. This was furnished with eight cannon
loaded with stones, and was named Fort Orange, in honour of the then
Stadtholdor of Holland. Down to the period of the intercolonial wars,
the settlement and the city were known as Fort Orange by the French in
Canada. Families settled there in 1630, an' for awhile the place was
called Beverwyck. When James, Duke of York and Albany (brother to

FORT VBEDERIOK.

Charles II.), came into possession of ITew Netherland, Xew Amsterdam
was named Now York, and Orange, or Beverwyck, was called Albany.

In 1647 a fort, named Williamstadt, was erected upon the hill at the
head of State Street, very near the site of the State Capitol, and the city
was enclosed by a line of defences in septangula^ form. In 1683 the
little trading post, having grown first to a hamlet and thou to a large
village, was incorporated a city, and Peter Schuyler, already mentioned
(son of the first of that name who came to America), was chosen its first
mayor. Out of the manor of Rensselacrwyck a strip of land, a mile wide,
extending from the Hudaon at the town, thirteen miles back, was granted
to the city, but the title to all the remainder of the soil of that broad
domain was confirmed to the Patroon. When, toward the middle of the
last century, the province was menaced by the French and Indians, a
strong quadrangular fort, built of stone, was erected upon the site of that

HmtTri

128

THE HUDSON.

of "WilHamstadt. "Within the heavj' walls, which had strong bastions at
the four corners, was a stone building for the officers and soldiers. It
was named Fort Frederick ; but its situation was so insecure, owing to
higher hills in the rear, from which an enemy might attack it, it was not
regarded as of much value by Abercrombie and others during the
campaigns.of the Seven Years' War. From that period until the present,
Albany has been growing more and more cosmopolitan in its population,
until now very little of the old Dutch clement is distinctly perceived.
The style of its architecture is changed, and very few of the buildings
erected in the last century and before, are remaining.

Among the most interesting of these relics of the past is the mansion
erected by General Philip Schuyler, at about the time when the Van
Rensselaer Manor House was built. It stands in the southern part of the
oity, at the head of Schuyler Street, and is a very fine specimen of the
domestic architecture of the countiy at that period. It is entered at the
front by an octagonal vestibule, richly ornamented within. The rooms
are sp icious, with high ceilings, and wainscoted. The chimney-pieces in
some of the rooms are finely wrought, and ornamented with carvings from
mantel to ceiling. The outhouoes were spacious, and the grounds around
the mansion, so late as 1860, occupied an entire square within the city.
Its site was well chosen, for even now, surrounded as it is by the city, it
commands a most remarkable prospect of the Hudson and the adjacent
country. Bolow it are the slopes and plain toward the river, which once
composed the magnificent lawn in front of the general's mansion ; further
on is a dense portion of the city ; but looking over all the mass of buildings
and shipping, l. \c eyes take in much of the fine county of Rensselaer, on
the opposite side of the river, and a \ic\v of the Hudson and its valley
many miles southward.

In that mansion General Schuyler and his family dispensed a princely
hospitality for almost forty years. Every stranger of distinction passing
between New York and Canada, public functionaries of the province and
state visiting Albany, and resident friends and relatives, always found a
hearty welcome to bed and board under its roof. And when the British
army had surrendered to the victorious republicans at Saratoga, in the
autumn cf 1777, Sir John Burgoyno, the accomplished commander of the

THE HUDSON.

129

royal troops, and many of his fellow-captives, were treated as friendly
guests at the general's table. To this circumstance wo have already
alluded.

"We were received by the good General Schuyler, his wife and
daughters," says the Baroness Reidcsel, "not as enemies, but as kind
friends ; and they treated us with the most marked attention and
politeness, as they diil General Burgoyne, who had caused General

OE.NERAI. SClIUYLEK'a MAXSIOX IX ALBANY.

Schuyler's bcautifully-fmished house to be burned. In fact, they behaved
like persona of exalted minds, who determined to bury all recollections of
their own injuries in the contemplation of our misfortunes. General
Burgoyne was struck with General Schuyler's generosity, and said to him,
* You show lue great kindness, though I have done you much injury.'
'That was the fate of war,' replied the brave man, * let us say no more
about it.' "

"The British commander Avas well received by Mrs. Schuyler," says
the Marquis De Chastellux, in his " Travels in America," " and lodged
in the best apartment in the house. An excellent supper was served him

igmUm

130

THE HUDSON.

in the evening, the honours of which were clone with so much grace that
he was affected even to tears, and said, with a deep sigh, ' Indeed, this is
doing too much for the man who has ravaged their lands and burned their
dwellings ! ' The next morning lie was reminded of his misfortunes by
an incident that would have amused any one else. lEis bed was prepared
in a large room, but as he had a numerous suite, or family, several
mattresses were spivad on the floor, for some officers to sleep near him.
Schuyler's second son, a little fellow, about seven years old, very arch and
forward, but very amiable, was running a'l the morning about the house.
Opening the door of the saloon, he burst out a laughing on seeing all the
English collected, and shut it after him, exclaiming, * You are all my
prisoners ! ' This innocent cruelty rendered them more melancholy than
before."

Schuyler's mansion was the theatre of a stirring event, in the summer
of 1781. The gcuevl was then engaged in the civil service of his country,
and was at home. The war was at its height, and the person of Schuyler
was regarded as a capital prize by his Tory enemies. A plan was
conceived to seize him, and carry him a prisoner into Canada. A Tory
of his neighbourhood, named Waltemeyer, a colleague of the more
notorious Joe Bettys, was employed for the purpose. With a party of his
associates, some Canadians and Indians, he prowled in the Avoods, near
Albany, for several days, awaiting a favourable opportunity. From a
Dutch labourer, whom he seized, he learned that the general was at homo,
and kept a body-guard of six men in the house, three of them, in
succession, being continually on duty. The Dutchman was compelled to
take an oath of secrecy, but appears to have made a mental reservation,
for, as soon as possible, he hastened to Schuyler's house, and warned him
of his peril.

At the close of a sultry day in August, the general and his family were
sitting in the large hall of the mansion ; the servants were dispersed
about the premises ; three of the guard were asleep in the basement, and
the other three were lying upon the grass in front of the house. The
night had fallen, when a servant announced that a stranger at the back
gate wished to speak with the general. His errand was immediately
apprehended. The doors and windows were closed and barred, the family

THE HUDSON.

131

"were hastily collected in an upper room, and the general ran to his bed-
chamber for his arms. From the window he saw the house surrounded
by aimied men. For the purpose of arousing tlic sentinels upon the grass,
and, perhaps, alarm the town, then half a mile distant, he fired a pistol
from the window. At that moment the assailants burst open the doors,
and, at the same time, Mrs. Schuyler perceived that, in tho confusion and
alarm, in their retreat from the hall, her infant child, a few months old,

BXAIKCASK IN SCIIUVLEB'S MANSION.

had been left in a cradle in the nursery below. She was flying to tlio
rescue of her child, Avhcn tho general interposed, and prevented her. But
her third daughter (who afterwards became tho wife of the last Patroon
of Ecnsselacrwyck) instantly rushed down stairs, snatched the still
sleeping infant fi'om the cradle, and bore it off in safety. One of the
Indians hurled a sharp tomahawk at her as she astciided the stairs. It
cut her dress within a few inches of the infant's head, and struck the

132

THE HUDSON.

stair rail at the lower turn, where the scar may ho still seen. At that
moment, Walteraeyer, supposing her to ho a servant, exclaimed, "Wench,
wench, where is your master ? " With great presence of mind, she
replied, "Gone to alarm the town." The general heard her, and,
throwing up the window, called -out, as if to a multitude, " Come on, mj
brave fellows ! surround the house, and secure the villains ! " The
marauders were then in the dining-room, plundering the general's plate.
With tliis, and the three guards that were in the house, and wore
disarmed, they made a precipitate retreat in the direction of Canada.

The infant daughter, who so narrowly escaped death, was the late
Mrs. Catherine Van Hcnssclaor Cochran, of Oswego, New York, who was
General Schuyler's youngest and last surviving child. Slie died toward
the close of August, 1857, at the age of seventy-six years.

Albany was made the political metropolis of the State of New York
early in the present century, when the Capitol, or State-House, was
erected. It stands upon a hill at the heat of broad, steep, busy State
Street, one hundred and thirty feet above the Hudson, and commands a
fine prospect of the whole surrounding country, especially the rich
agricultural district on the cast side of the river. In front of the Capitol
is a small well- shaded park, or enclosed public square, on the eastern side
of which are costly white marble buildings devoted to the official business
of the State and city. The Capitol is an unpretending structure, of brown
free-stone from the Nyack quarries, below the * Highlands. It is two
stories in height, and ornamented with a portico, whoso roof is supported
by four gi'ey marble columns of the Ionic order, tetrastyle. The building
is surfTiOunted by a dome supported by several small Ionic columns, and
bearing upon its crown a wooden statue of Themis, the goddess of justice
and law. Within it arc halls for the two branches of the State legislature
(Senate and General Assembly), an executive chamber for the official use
of the Governor, an apartment for the Adjutant-General, and rooms for
the use of the higher state courts.

Immediately in the rear of the Capitol is the building containing the
State library, which includes nearly forty thousand volumes, and some
valuable manuscripts. It is a free, but not a circulating, library.

Albany contained only about six thousand inhabitants when it was

THE HUDSON.

133

made the State capital, and its progress in business and population was
very slow until the successful establishment of steam-boat navigation on
the Hudson, and the completion of that stupendous work of iuternal
improvement, the Erie Canal, by which the greatest of the inland seas of
the United States (Lake Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior) were
connected by navigable waters with the Atlantic Ocean, th rough the

TlIK SrATt; CAI'llOL,

Hudson lliver. The idea of such connection had occupied the minds of
sagacious men for many years, foremost among whom were Elkanah
Watson, General Philip Schuyler, Christopher Colles, and Gouverneur
Morris; and thirty years before the great work was commenced, Joel
Barlow, one of the early American poets, wrote in his Fision of
Columbus —

" He saw as wiilely spreaua the (uithaniicUed plain,
Where inland realms for ages i 'loomed in vain,
Canals, long winding, ope a watery Higlit,
And distant streams, and seas, and lakes unite,

" From fair Albania tow'rd the fading sun,
Back tlu-ough the mitUand lengthening channels run ;
Meet the far lakes, their beauteous towns that lave,
And Hudson joined to broad Ohio's wave."

134

THE HUDSON.

The Erie Canal cntorp tho Hiulson at Albany. Its western terminus is
the city of liuffulo, at the cast end of Lake Erie. The length of tho canal
is 360 miles, and its original width was forty feet, with depth sufficient
to bear boats of eighty tons burden. It was completed in the year 1825,
at a cost to the State of nearly eight millions of dollars. The business
demands upon it warranting an enlargement to seventy feet in width,
work with that result in view has been in progress for several years. It
flows through tho entire length of the beautiful Mohawk valley, crosses

CANAL UASIX AT ALllAM'.

tiie Mohawk lliver several times, and enters Albany at the north end of
the city.

Near where the last aqueduct of the canal crosses the Mohawk River,
the rapids above Cohoes Falls commence. The Indians had a touching
legend connected with these rapids, that exhibits, in brief sentences, a
vivid picture of the workings of the savage mind.

Oceuna, a young Seneca warrior, and his affianced were carelessly
paddling along the river in a canoe, at the head of the rapids, when they
suddenly perceived themselves drawn irresistibly by the current to the

THE UUDSON.

135

middle of, and down, the stream towards the cataract. "VVhcu they found
deliverance to be impossible, the lovers prepared to meet the great Master
of Life with composure, and began the melancholy death-song, in
responsive sentences. Occuna began: " Daughter of a mighty warrior !
the Great Manitore [the Supreme God] calls mo hence; he bids me hasten
into his presence ; I hear his voice in the stream ; I perceive his Spirit
in the moving of the waters. The light of bis eyes danceth upon the swift
rapids."

The maiden replied: "Art thou not thyself a mighty warrior,
Occuna ? Hath not thy hatchet been often bathed in the red blood of
thine enemies ? Hath the fleet deer ever escaped thy arrow, or the
beaver eluded thy pursuit ? Why, then, shouldst thou fear to go into the
presence of Manitore ? "

Occuna responded : "Manitore regardeth the brave — ho respecteth the
prayer of the mighty ! When I selected thee from the daughters of thy
mother, I promised to live and die with thee. The Thunderer hath culled
us together.

" Welcome, shade of On'slca, great chief of the invincible Seuecas !
Lo, a warrior and the daughter of a warrior come to join you in the feast
of the blessed ! "

Occuna was dashed in pieces among the rocks, but his affianced maiden
was preserved to tell the story of her perils. Occuna, the Indian said,
" was raised high above the regions of the moon, from whence he views
with joy the prosperous hunting of the warriors ; ho gives pleasant
dreams to his friends, and terrifies their enemies with dreadful omens."
And when any of his tribe passed this fatal cataract, they halted, and
with brief solemn ceremonies commemorated the death of Occuna.

A capacious basin, comprising an area of thirty-two acres, was formed
for the reception of the vessels and commerce of the canal, and in safe
harbour for its boats and the river craft, in winter, by the erection of a
pier, a mile in length, upon a shoal in front of the city. It was constructed
by a stock company. The basin was originally closed at the upper and
lower ends by lock-gates. These were soon removed to allow the tide
and currents of the river to flow freely through the basin, for the
dispersion of obstructions. When the Western Railway from Boston to

Q— J

i '

136

THE HUDSON.

Albany was completed, a passage was made through this pier for ferry-
boats, the bridges not being sufficient for the accommciation of travellers
and freight. The pier was also soon covered with storehouses ; and when
the Harlem and Hudson Iliv(!r Hallways (the former skirting the western
borders of Connecticut, eighteen or twenty miles east of the Hudson, and the
latter following the river shore) were finished, and their termini were
fixed at the point of that of the "Westem Hallway, the opening in the pier
was widened, and ferry-boats made a passage through continually.

These roads, with the great Central Railway extending west from
Albany, and others penetrating the country northward, tog<)ther with the
Champlain Canal, have made that city the locus of an immense trade and
travel. The amount of property that reaches Albany by canal alone, is
between two and three millions of tons annually ; of which almost a
million of tons, chiefly in the various forms of timber, are the products of
the forest?. The timber trade of Albany is very extensive, amounting in
value to between six or seven millions of dollars annually. Manufacturing
is carried on there extensively; and the little town of six thousand
inhabitants, when it was made tlie State capital, about sixty years before,
comprised in 1860 almost seventy thousand souls.

It is not within the scope of our plan of illustrating the Hudson to do
more than offer a general outline of its various features, as exhibited
in the forms of nature and the works of man. We leave to the
statistician the task of giving in detail an account of the progress ri" towns
and villages, in tlieir industrial operations and the institutions of learning.
"We picture to the eye and mind only such promiuent features as would
naturally engage the obseivation of the tourist seeking recreation and
incidental knowledge. With this remark Ave leave the consideration of
Albany^ after saying a few words concerning the Dudley Observatory, an
establishment devoted to astronomical science, and ranking in its
appropriate appointments with the best of its class of aids to human
knowledge.

The Dudley Observatory was projected about eight years ago, and is
nearly completed. It is the result of a conference of several scientific
gentlemen, who resolved to establish at the State capital an astronomical
observatory, that, for completeness, should be second to uono in the world.

THE HUDSON.

137

General Van Rensselaer, the present proprietor of the Manor House, at
Albany, presented for the purpose eight acres of land upon an eminence
north of the city. This preliminary step was follow cd by Mrs. Blandina
Dudley, widow of a wealthy Albany merchant, who offered twelve
thousand dollars towards the cost of erecting a building. Those having
the matter in charge resolved to call it the Dudley Observatory, in honour
of the generous lady. She subsequently increased her gift for apparatus
and endowments to seventy-six thousand dollars. The chief spring of her

,*.:^B[J^

THE DUDLEY OOSEBVATORV.

generosity was a reverential respect for her husbaud. With wisdom she
chose this instrument of scientitic investigation to be his enduring
monument. Others made liberal donations, trustees were appointed, a
scientific council, to take charge of the establishment, was formed, and
the building was commenced in the spring of 1853. A groat heliometer,
named in honour of Mrs. Dudley, was constructed ; and Thomas W. Olcott,
of Albany, who took great interest in the enterprise from the beginning,
contributed sufficient money to purchase the splendid meridian circle by
Pistor and Martin, of Berlin, the finest instrument of the kind in the world.

138

THE HUDSON.

It is called the 01 itt Meridian Circle. The whole establishment was to
have been placed under tlie superintendence of the eminent Professor
Ormsby ISL Mitchcl, of Ohio. The Civil "War broke out, and Mr. Mitchel,
animated by patriotic zeal for the salvation of his country, entered the
militaiy service, for which he had been educated at "West Point, and was
made a general officer. "While in command of the "Department of the
South" at Beaufort, South Carolina, ho died from the effects of yellow
fever.

The Dudley Observatory is upon the highest summit of the grounds,
and commands an extensive view of the Hudson and the adjacent country.
It is cruciform, with a front of about eighty feet, and a depth of seventy-
five feet. Its massive walls arc of brick, faced with brown freestone.
All the arrangements within, for the use of instruments, are very perfect.
In a large niche opposite the entrance door is a marble bust of Mr. Dudley,
by Palmer, the eminent sculptor, on the pedestal of which is the following
inscription :—

CHARLES E. nUDLEY,

ny BLANDINA, niS WIFE.

DEDICATED TO THE ADVANCEMENT OP

ASXnoNOMY.

In the Clock-rooiu of the Observatory is the apparatus by which a "time-
ball" on the top of the State Capitol, a mile distant, is dropped at
precisely twelve o'clock each day, and bells are also rung at the same
instant in the senate and assembly chambers. The ball is seen in our
sketch of the Capitol. It is f ;ir and a half feet iu diameter, is mounted
on the flag-staff, and is raised eacli day at ten minutes before twelve.
The force of the fall is broken by spiral springs at the foot of the f big- staff.
Another but smaller time-ball is dropped at the same instant in
Broadwaj , in front of the telegraph-office, and hundreds of persons may
be seen daily holding their Avatches at the approach of the meridian
moment, to regulate them by this unerring indicator.

Immediately opposite Albany is tlie commencement of fine alluvial
" flats," almost on a level with the Hudson, and subject to overflow when
floods or high tides prevail. At the head of these " flats " lies the village
of Oreeubush {Ifd Greene Bosch, "the piue woods," in the Dutch

THE HUDSON.

139

language), which was laid out at the beginning of this century. It has
since crept up the slope, and now presents a beautiful rural village of
almost four thousand inhabitants. Many business men of Albany liavc
pleasant country residences there. About a mile from the ferry is the
site of extensive barracks erected by the United States government as a
place of rendezvous for troops at the opening of the war between Great
Britain and the United States in 1812. Provision was made for six

OREKKBUSH KAILWAY-BTATIOS.*

tliousand soldiers; and their General Dearborn, the cominander-in-chief
of the United States army, had his (quarters for some time. On this very
spot Abererombie and Amherst collected their troops above a hundred
years ago, preparatory to an invasion cf Canada, or, at least, the capture
of the French fortresses on Lake Champlaiu ; and from that same spot
went oonipanios and regiments to the northern frontiers in 1812 — 14, to
invade Canada, or to oppose an invasion from that province, as circumstances
might require. No traces now remain of warlike preparation. Tlie

140

THE HUDSON.

peaceful pursuits of agriculture have taken the place of the turmoil of the
camp, and instead of the music of the shrill fife and the sonorous drum
that came up from the river's brink, when battalions marched away for
the field, the scream of the steam-whistle, the jingle of bells, and the
hoarse breathings of the locomotive are heard — for at Greenbush are
concentrated the termini of four railways, that are almost hourly pouring
living freight and tons of merchandise upon the vessels of the Albany
ferries. Buildings of every description for the use of these railways are
there in a cluster, the most conspicuous of which is the immense many-
sided engine-house of the Western Road, whose great dome, covered witli
bright tin, is a conspicuous object on a sunny day for scores of miles
around.

The Hudson Eivcr Railway is on the east side of the stream, and follows
its tortuous banks all the way from Albany to New York, sometimes
leading through tunnels or deep rocky gorges at promontories, and at
others making tangents across bays and the mouths of tributary streams
by means of bridges, tyestlework, and causeways. Its length is 143 miles.
More than a dozen trains each way pass over portions of the road in the
course of twenty-four hours, affording the tourist an opportunity to visit
in a short space of time every village on both sides of the river, there
being good ferries at each. Tlie shores are hilly and generally well-
cultivated ; and the diversity of the landscape, whether seen from the cars
or a steamer, present to the eye, in rapid succession, ever-varying pictures
of life and beauty, comfort and thrift.

CHAPTER VIII.

^BE first village below Albany is the pretty one of
Castleton, on the Hudson Eivcr Railway, about
eight miles below Greenbush. Around it is a
pleasant agricultural country, and between it and
Albany, on the western shore, flows in the romantic
Norman's-KiU (the Indian Tawasentha, or Place of
many Dead), that comes down from the region of
the lofty Heldcrbergs. Upon the island in the
Hudson, at the mouth of this stream— a noted place
of encampment and trade for the Iroquois-the Dutch built their first
fort on the Hudson in 1614, and placed it in command of Captain
Chnstians. The island was named Ka^teel, or Castle, and from it the
httlo village just mentioned received its namo. The alluvial " flats " in
this neighbourhood are wide, and low islands, partly wooded and partly
cultivated; divide the river in. channels. They stretch parallel with the
shores, a considerable distance, and the immense passenger steamers
sometimes find it diflScult to traverse the sinuous main channel. These,
and the tall-masted sloops, have the appearance, from the Castleton
shore, of passing through vast meadows, the water that bears them not
being visible.

In this vicinity is the famous hidden sand-bar, called Overslagh by the
Dutch, so formidable to the navigators of this part of the river, not
because of any actual danger, but of tedious detentions caused by running
aground. Some improvements have been made. In former years the
sight of from twenty to fifty sail of river craft, fast aground on the
Overslagh ct low tide, was not rare, and the amount of profanity uttered
by the vexed sailors was sufficient to demoralise the whole district. .This
bar is formed by the sand brought in by the Norman's Kill and other
streams, and large sums have been expended in damming, dredging, and

142

THE HUDSON.

dyking, without entire success. As early as 1790, the State legislature
authorised the proprietors of Mills and Papskni Islands to erect a dam or
dyke between them, so as to throw all the water into the main channel,
apd thus increase its velocity sufficient to carry away the accumulating
sand. It abated, but did not c]ire the difficulty. This bar is a perpetual
contradiction to the frequent boast, that the navigation of the Hudson is
unobstructed along its entire tide-watercourse. The Overslagh is the
only exception, however. ...

About four miles below Castleton, is the village of Schodack, a deriva-

'■^'/•'''!^-^4r:v-^'''?:/j&!'i^''*:''/".C'y.^-"-«"v,....

VIEW NEAR THE OVERRLAdH.

tive from the Mohcgau word is-chc-da, "a meadow, or fire-plain." This
was anciently the seat of the council fire of the Mohegans upon the
Hudson. Tlioy extended their villages along the eastern bank of the
stream, as high as Lansingburgh, and their hunting grounds occupied the
entire counties of Columbia and Rensselaer. As the white settlements
crowded there, the Mohegans retired eastwardly to the valley of the
Housatonnuc, in Massachusetts, where their descendants, known as the
Stockbridge Indians, were for a long time religiously instructed by the

THE HUDSON.

143

eminent Jonathan Edwards. They embraced Christianity, abandoned
the chase as a means of procuring subsistence, and adopted the arts of
civilised life. A. small remnant of these once powerful Mohcgons is now
living, as thriving agriculturists, on the shores of AVinnebago Lake, in
the far north-west.

About seven miles below Schodack is Stuyvcsant Landing, the "port"
of Kinderhook {Kinders Iloeclc), the Dutch name for " children's point, or
comer." It is derived, as tradition asserts, frojn the fact that a Swede,
the first settler at the point at Upper " Kinderhook Landing, had a
immerous progeny. The village, which was settled by Dutch and
Swedes at an early ])eriod, is upoii a plain five miles from the river, with
most attractive rural surroundings. There, for more than twenty years
after his retirement from public life, the late Honoiirablo Martin Van
Buren, a descendant of one of the early settlers, and tlie eighth president
of the United 'States, resided. His pleasant seat, embowered in lindens,
is called " Lindenwold," and there, in delightful quietude, the retired
chief magistrate of the republic spent the evening of his days.

The country road from Kindciliook to the Coxsaklc station passes
through a rich and well-cultivated region, and leads the tourist to points
from Avhich the first extensive views of the magnificent range of the
Katzbcrgs may be obtained.

Coxsaki'! village is upon the west side of the river, partly along the
shore for a mile, in three clusters. The more ancient portion, called
Coxsakie Street, is upon a beautiful plain a mile from the river. Tlic
latter Avas originally built upon the post road, as most of the old villages
along the Hiulson were, the river traffic being at that time inconsiderable.
The name is the Iroquois Avord Ktwalccc, or the Cut Banks, Anglicised.
Its appropriateness may be understood by the foim of the shore, Avhose
banks have evidently been cut down by the rushing river currents that
sweep swiftly along between an island and the main, Avhen the spring
freshets occur. From a high rocky bluff at the ferry, on the east side of
the river, a fine view of Coxsakie, Avith the blue Katzbergs as a baek-
gfound, may be obtained. Turning soutlnvard, the eye takes in a broad
expanse of the riA'cr and country, Avith the city of Hudson in the distance,
and northward are seen the little villages of Coeymans and New Baltimore,

> 'I

144

THE HUDSON.

on the western shore. The site of the former bore the Indian name of
Sanago. It was settled by the Dutch, and received its present name
from one of its earlier inhabitants.

It was in blossoming May, in 1860, when the shad fishers were in
their glory, drawing full nets of treasure from the river ic quick
succession, when the " tide su'vcd," that I visited this portion of the
Hudson. On both sides of the river they were pursuing their vocation
with assiduity, for '* the season " lasts only about two months. The

■

COXSAKIE.

immense reels on which they stretch and dry their nets, the rough,
uncouth costume of the fishermen, appropriate to the water and the slime,
the groups of young people who gather upon the beach to see the
" catch," form interesting and sometimes picturesque foregrounds to
every view on these shores. The shad* is the most important fish of the
Hudson, being very delicious as food, and caught in such immense

• Alosa prastabilis. Hea»l and back dark bluish ; sides of the body greenish, with blue and yellowisli
cliiuigeable metaUio reflections ; belly neai'ly white ; length from one to two feet. It resides in the
northern seaa, but comes to us from the south to deposit its spawn. It appears at Charleston in January
or February ; early in March at Norfolk and Baltimore, and at New York at the latter end of March,

numbers, as to make tlicm cheap dishes for the poor man's table. They
enter the Hudson in immense numbers towards the close of March or
beginning of April, and ascend to the head of tide water to spawn. It is
while on their passage up that the greater number and best conditioned
are caught, several hundreds being sometimes taken in a s'ngle "citch."
They generally descend the river at the close of May, when they are

nsHixo sr..Tiox.— ariKtiEox, suav, bass.*

called Back Shad, and are so lean and almost worthless, that " thin as a
June Shad " is a common epithet applied to lean persons.

The Sturgeon f is also caught from the Hudson in largo numbers at
most of the fishing stations. The most important of these are in the
vicinity of Hyde Park, a few ir«iles above, and Low Point, a few miles
below, tho city of Poughkeepsie. These fish are sold in such quantities
in Albany, that they have been called, in derision, "Albany beef," and

* The largest fish in the picture is tho sturgeon, the smallest ihe striiieU bass, and the other a shad.
The relative sizes and proporlions are correct.

t The short-nosed Sturgeon (Acipenser breeinostris) is a large agile flsh without scales, the smooth
skin covered with small spinous asperites scattered equally over it. Its colour is dusky above, witli faint
traces of oblique bands ; belly white, and the flna tinged with reddish colour.

the inhabitants of that ancient town, ** Sturgeonites." They vary in size
from two to eight feet in length, and in weight from 100 to 450 lbs.
The "catch" commences in April, and continues until the latter end of
August. The flesh is used for food by some, and the oil that is extracted
is considered equal to the best sperm as an illuminator. The voyagers
upon the Hudson may frequently see them leap several feet out of water
when chasing their prey of smaller fish to the surface, and they have been
known to seriously injure small boats, either by striking their bottoms
with their snout in rising, or falling into them. Bass and herring are
also caught in abundance in almost every part of the river, and numerous
smaller fishes reward the angler's patience by their beauty of form, if he
be painter or poet, and their delicious flavour, if the table gives him
pleasure.

About thirty miles below Albany, lying upon a bold, rocky promontory
that juts out from the eastern shore at an elevation of fifty feet, with a
beautiful bay on each side, is the city of Hudson, the capital of Columbia
County, a port of cntr)', and one of the most dolightfuUy situated towns
on the river. It was founded in 1784 by thirty proprietors, chiefly
Quakers from New England. Never in the history of the rapid growth
of cities in America has there boon a more remarkable example than that
of Hudson. Within three years from the time when the farm on which
it stands was purchased, and only a solitary storehouse stood upon the
bank of the river at the foot of the bluff", one hundred and fifty dwellings,
with wharves, storehouses, woi-ishops, barns, &c., were erected, and a
population of over fifteen hundred souls had settled there, and become
possessed of a city charter.

The principal street of the city of Hudson extends from the slopes of a
lofty eminence called Prospect Kill, nearly a mile, to the brow of the
promontory fronting the river, where a pleasant public promenade was
laid out more than fifty years ago. It is adorned with trees and
shrubbery, and gravelled walks, and affords charming views up and down
the river of the beautiful country westward, and the entire range of the
Katzbergs, lying ten or twelve miles distant. In the north-wcRt, the
Helderberg range looms up beyond an agricultural district dotted with
villages and farmhouses. Southward the prospect is bounded by Mount

THE HUDSON.

147

Merino high and near, over the bay, which is cultivated to its summit,
and from whoso crown the Highlands in the south, the Luzerne
Mountains, near Lake George, in the north, the Katzbergs in the west,
and the Green Mountains eastward, may be scon, blue and shadowy, and
bounding the horizon with a grand and mysterious line, while at the feet
of the observer, the city of Hudson lies like a picture spread upon a table.
Directly opposite the city is Athens, a thriving little village, lying upon
the river slope, and having a connection with its more stately sister by

VIEW FBOM THE PBOMENADE, ULDSON.

means of a steam ferry-boat. It was first named Lunenberg, then
Esperanza, and finally was incorporated under its present title. Behind
it spreads out a beautiful country, inhabited by a population consisting
chiefly of descendants of the Dutch. All thi'ough that region, from
Coxsakie to Kingston, the Dutch language is still used in man^. families.

The country around Hudson is hilly and very picturesque, every turn
in the road aff'ording pleasant changes in landscape and agreeable
surprises. A little northward, Claverack {Ret Klauier Rack, the Clover
Eeach) Creek comes down from the hills in falls and cascades, and

148

THE HUDSON.

piT'sonts many lomautic little scenes. N'car its banks, a few miles rom
Hudson, are mineral springs, now rising into celebrity, and known as the
Columbia Sulphur Springs. The accommodations for invaV.ds and
pleasure-seekers are arranged iu the midst of a fine hickoiy grove, and
many persons spend tlie summer months there very delightfully, away
from the fashionable crowd. The tourist should not omit a visit to these
springs, nor to Lebanon Springs farther in the interior. The latter may

ATHE>S, JKOM THE mjDSO>' IRON WOHKS.»

be reached by railway and stage-coaches from Hudson, with small expen-
diture of time and money.

The Lebanon Springs are the resort of many people during the summer
months, but the chief attraction there to the tourist is a village two miles
distant, upon a mountain terrace, composed entirely of celibates of both
sexes, and of all ages, called Shakers. They number about five hundred.

• Tlie Hudson Iron Works are at the entrance of the South Bay, on a point of low land betv.een the
river and the railway, Tliey belong to a Stock Company. The chief business is the converaion of the
crude iron ore into "pigs" ready for the manufacturer's use. Two kinds of ore are used— hematite from
West Stockbridge, and magnetic from the Forest of Dean, Mines, in the Hudson Highlands. They pro-
duce about 10,000 tons of " pig-iron " annually.

THE HUDSON.

149

i ;i

I I

and own and occupy ten thousand acres of land, all of which susceptible
of tillage is in a state of highest cultivation. The sect or society of this
singular people originated in England a little more than one hundred
years ago. Ann Lee, the young wife of a blacksmith, who had borne
several children, conceived the idea that marriage was impure and sinful.
She found disciples, and after being persecuted as a fanatic for several
years, she professed to have had a direct revelation that she was the female
manifestation of the Christ upon earth, the male manifestation having been
Jesus, the Deity being considered a duality — a being composed of both

VIEW AT KATZ-KILL LANDING.

sexes. I She was, and still is, called " Mother Ann," and is revered by her
followers with a feeling akin to worship. With a few of them she came
to America, planted " the church " a few miles from Albany, at a place
called Niskayuna, and there died. There arc now eighteen distinct
communities of this singular people in the United States, the aggregate
membership numbering little more than four thousand. The community
at New Lebanon is the most perfect of all in its arrangements, .nd there
the hierarchy of the ** Millenuial Church" reside. Their strange forms

150

THE HUDSON.

!' I

of worship, consisting chiefly in singing and dancing; their quaint
costume, their simple manners, their industry and frugality, the perfection
of all their industrial op'^rations, their chaste and exemplary lives, and
the unsurpassed beauty and picturcsqucness of the country in Avhich they
aire seated, render a visit to the Shakers of Lebanon c long-to-be-
romembered event in one's life.

About six miles below Hudson is the Oak-Hill Station, opposite the
K!atz-Kill (Cuts-Kill) landing, at the mouth of the Katz-Kill, a clear and
beautiful stream that fiows down from the hill country of Schoharie
County for almost forty miles. It was near here that the IlaJf Moon
anchored on the 20th September, 1609, and was detained all the next day
on account of the great number of natives who came on board, and had a
merry time. Master Juct, one of Hudson's companions, says, in his
jcurual, — " Our master and his mate determined to trie some of the
chiefo men of the countrey, Avhether they had any treacherie in them.
So they tookc them downc into tlie ca'jbiu, and gave them so much wine
aTid aqua riice that they were all merrie, and one of them had his wife with
him, Mhich sate so modestly, as any of our countrey women would doe in
a strange place. In the end, one of them was drunke, which had been
aboord of our sliip all the time that wc had beene there : and that was
strange to them, for they could not tell how to take it. The canoes and
folke went all on shoare, but some of them came againe, and brought
stropes of bcales [wampum, made of the clam-shell] ; some had sixe,
seven, eight, nine, ten, :iti(1 gave him. So he slept all nijht quietly.''
The savages did not venture on board until noon the next day, when they
were glad to find their old companion that was so drunk quite well again.
They then brought on board tobacco, and more beads, which they gave to
Hudson, *' and made an Oration," and '■.ftcrward sent for venison, which
was brought on board.

At the Oak Hill station the touiist upon the railway will leave it for a
trip to the Kutzbergs before him, upon which may be seen, at the distance
of eight miles in an air line, the "Mountain House,'' the famous resort
for hundreds of people who escape fi'om the duat of cities during the heat
of summer. The river is crossed '^a a steam ferry-boat, and good
oiQuibuses convey travellers from it to the pleasant village of Katz-Kill,

THE HUDSON.

151

which lies upon a slope on the left bank of the stream bearing the same
name, less than half a mile from its mouth. At the village, conveyances
are ready at all times to take the tourist to the Mountain House, twelve
miles distant by the road, which passes through a picturesque and highly

cultivated country, to the foot of the mountain.

Before making this

ENTHANCK TO TIIK KAT/.lll'.IiUS,

tour, however, the traveller should linger awhile on tlic banks of the
Katz-Kill, from the Hudson a few miles into the country, for there may
bo seen, from difFi'rent points of view, some of ';he most charming scenery
in the world. Evciy turn in the road, every benil in the stream, presents

152

THE HUDSON.

new and attractive pictures, remarkable for beauty and diversity in
outline, colour, and aerial perspective. The solemn Katzbergs, sublime
in form, and mysterious in their dim, incomprehensible, and ever-changing
aspect, almost always form a prominent feature in the landscape. In the
midst of this scenery. Cole, the eminent painter, loved to linger when the
shadows of the early morning were projected towards the mountain, then
bathed in purple mists ; or at evening, when these lofty hills, then dark
and awful, cast their deep shadows over more than half the country
below, between their bases and the river. Charmed with this region,
Cole made it at first a summer retreat, and finally his permanent residence,
and there, in a fine old family mansion, delightfully situated to command
a full view of the Katzberg range and the intervening country, his spirit
passed from earth, while a sacred poem, created by his wealthy imagina-
tion and deep religious sentiment, was finding expression upon his easel
in a series of fine pictures, like those of ** The Course of Empire,"
and " The Voyage of Life." Hd entitlo(f the series, ** The Cross and the
World." Only one of the pictures was finished. One had found fonn in
a " study" only, and two others were partly finished on the largo canvas.
Another, making the fifth (the number in the scries), was about half
completed, with some figures sketched in with white chalk. So they
remain, just as the master left them, and so remains his studio. It is
regarded by his devoted widow as a place too sacred for the common gaze.
The stranger never enters it.

The range of the Katzbergs * rises abruptly from tlie plain on their
eastern side, where the road that leads to the Mountain House enters
them, and follows the margin of a deep, dark glen, through which flows
a clear mountain stream seldom seen by the traveller, but heard
continually for a mile and a hi^f, as, in swift rapids or in little cascades,
it hurries to the plain below. The road is sinuous, and in its ascent along
the side of that glen, or more properly magnificent gorge, it is so enclosed
by the towering hills on one side and the lofty trees that shoot up on the

• Tlio Inilinns called this rnngo of liill.) <)n-ti-U-rir, Bignifyinp, Mountiiins of llie Sky, for in some
conditions of llie atnuisiiliero llicy are said to appear lilio a lu'avy onmiilous dotid above tlie liorizon.
The Utitili called them Kutzber^s, or Cat Mountains, because of the prevalouco of panthers and wild-eats
upon tlicni. The word Cats-Kill is partly Kngllsh and partly Dutch : Ktitz-Kill, Dutch ; Cuts-Creek,
Knglish.

THE HUDSON.

153

oiher, that little can be seen beyond a few rods, except the sky above, or
glimpses of some distant summit, until the pleasant nook in the mountain
is reached, wherein the Cabin of Hip Van Wiukle is nestled. After that
the course of the road is more r:arly parallel with the river and tlio

-^^

nip VAN winkle's cabin.

plain, and through frequent vistas glimpses may be caught of the country
below, that charm the eye, excite tho fancy and the imagination, and
make the heart throb quicker and stronger with pleasurable emotions.

Hip's cabin was a decent frame-house, as the Americans cull dwellings
made of wood, with two rooms, standing by the side of tho road half-way

li.

164

THE HUDSON.

from the plain to the Mountain House, at the head of the gorge, along
whose margin the^ traveller has ascended. It was so called because it
stood within the " amphitheatre " reputed to be the place where the ghostly
nine-pin players of Irving' s charming story of Rip Van Winkle held their
revel, and where thirsty Rip lay down to his long repose by ** that wicked
flagon," watched by his faithful dog Wolf, and undisturbed by the tongue
of Dame Van Winkle. As one stands upon the rustic bridge, in front of
the cabin, and looks down the dark glen, up to the impending cliffs, or
around in that rugged amphitheatre, the scene comes up vividly in memory,
and the "company of odd-looking personages playing at nine-pins"
reappear. "Some wore short doublets, others jerkins, with long kuives
in their belts, and most of them had enormous breeches, of similar style
with that of the guides. Their visages, too, were peculiar : one had a
large head, broad face, and small piggish eyes ; the face of another seemed
to consist entirely of a nose, and was surmounted by a white sugar-loaf hat,
set off with a little red cock's tail. They all had beards, of various shapes
and colours. There was one who seemed to be the commander. He was
a stout old gentleman, with a weather-beaten countenance ; he wore a
laced doublet, broad belt and hanger, and high-crowned hat and feather,
red stockings, and high-heeled shoes with roses in them. What seemed
particularly odd to Hip was, that though these folks were evidently
amusing themselves, yet they maintained the gravest faces, the most
mysterious silence, and were withal the most melancholy party of pleasure
he had ever witnessed. Nothing interrupted the stillness of the scene but
the noise of the balls, which, whenever they were I'olled, echoed along the
mountains like rumbling peals of thunder."

Such was the company to whom hen-pecked Rip Van Winkle, wandering
upon the mountains on a squirrel hunt, was introduced by a mysterious
stranger carrying a keg of liquor, at autumnal twilight. And there it was
that thirsty Rip drank copiously, went to sleep, and only awoke when
twenty years had rolled away. His dog was gone, and his rusty gun-
barrel, bereft of its stock, lay by his side. He doubted his identity. He
sought the village tavern and its old frequenters ; his own house, and his
faithful Wolf. Alas! everything was changed, except the river and the
mountains. Only one thing gave him real joy — Dame Van Winkle's

THE HUDSON.

155

terrible tongue had been silenced for ever by death ! He was a mystery
to all, and more a mystery to himself than to others. Whom had he met
in the mountains ? those queer fellows that reminded him of "the figures
in an old Flemish painting, in the parlour of Dominic Van Schaick, the
village parson. Sage Peter Vonderdonck was called to explain the
mystery ; and Peter successfully responded. He asserted that it was a
fact, handed down from his ancestor, the historian, that the Kaats-Kill
Mountains had always been haunted by strange beings. That it was
affirmed that the great Hcudrick Hudson, the first discoverer of the river
and country, kept a kind of vigil there every twenty years, with his crew
of the Half-Moon, being permitted in this way to revisit the scenes of his
enterprise, and kept a guardian eye uj)on the river and the great city called
by his name. That his father had once seen them, in their old Dutch
dresses, playing at nine-pins in a hollow of the mountain ; and that himself
had heard, one summer afternoon, the sound of their balls, like distant
peals of thunder." Eip's veracity was vindicated; his daughter gave him
a comfortable home ; and the grave historian of the event assures us that
the Dutch inhabitants, "even to this day, never hear a thunder-storm
of a summer afternoon about the Kaats-Kill, but they say, Hendrick
Hudson and his crew are at their game of nine-pins."

The Van AVinkle of our day, who lived in the cottage by the mountain
road-side as long as a guest lingered at the great mansion above him, was
no kin to old Rip, and we strongly suspect that his name was borrowed ;
but ho kept refreshments that strengthened many a weary toiler up the
mountain — liquors equal, no doubt, to those in the "wicked flagons" tliat
the ancient one served to the ghostly company — and from a rude spout
poured cooling drauglits into his cabin from a mountain spring, more
delicious than ever came from the juice of the grape.

There are many delightful resting-places upon the road, soon after
leaving Hip's cabin, as we toil wearily up the mountain, where the eye
takes in a magnificent panorama of hill and valley, forest and river,
hamlet and village, and thousands of broad acres where herds graze and
the farmer gathers his crops, — much of it dimly refined because of distance
— a beautifully coloured map rather than a picture. These delight the
eye and quicken the pulse, as has been remarked ; but there is one place

156

THE HUDSON.

upon that road where the ascending weary ones enjoy more exquisite
pleasure for a moment than at any other point in all that mountain region.
It is at a turn in the road where the Mountain House stands suddenly
before and above the traveller, revealed in perfect distinctness — column,
capital, window, rock, people — all apparently only a few rods distant.
There, too, the road is level, and the traveller rejoices in the assurance
that the toilsome journey is at an end ; when, suddenly, he finds himself,
like the young pilgrim in Cole's " Voyage of Life," disappointed in his

MOUNTAIN HOUSE, VBOM TUF. ROAD.

course. The road that seemed to be leading directly to that beautiful
mansion, upon the crag just above him, turns away, like the stream that
appeared to be taking the ambitious young voyager directly to the shadowy
temple of Fame in the clouds ; and many a weary step must be taken,
over a crooked, hilly road, before the traveller can reach the object of his
journey.

The grand rock-platform, upon which the Mountain House stands, is
reached at last ; and then comes the full recompense for all weari-
ness. Bathed — immersed — in pure mountain air, almost three thousand

THE HUDSON.

157

feet above tide-water, full, positive, enduring rest is given to every
muscle after a half hour's respiration of that invigorating atmosphere ;
and soul and limb are ready for a longer, loftier, and more rugged
ascent.

There is something indescribable in the pleasure experienced during the
first hour passed upon the piazza of the Mountain House, gazing upon the
scene toward the east. That view has been described a thousand times.
I shall not attempt it. Much rhetoric, and rhyme, and sentimental
platitudes have been employed in the service of f^cscription, but none have
conveyed to my mind a picture so graphic, truthful, and satisfactory as
Natty Bumpo's reply to Edward's question, in one of Cooper's "Leather-
Stocking Tales," ** "What see you Avhen you get there? "

"^^Creation ! " said Natty, dropping the end of his rod into the water,
and sweeping one hand around him in a circle, '* all creation, lad. I was
on that hill when Vaughan burnt 'Sopus, in the last war, and I saw the
vessels come out of the Highlands as plainly as I can see that lime-scow
rowing into the Susquehanna, though one was twenty times further from
me than the other,* The river was in sight for seventy miles under my
feet, looking like a curled shaving, though it was eight long miles to its
banks. I saw the hills in the Hampshire Grants, the Highlands of the
river, and all that God had done, or man could do, as far as the eye could
reach — you know that the Indians named me for my sight, ladf — and from
the flat on the top of that mountain, I have often found the place where
Albany stands; and as for 'Sopus! the day the royal troops burnt the
town,thc smoke seemed so nigh that I thought I could hear the screeches
of the women."

*' It must have been worth the toil, to meet with such a glorious view."

*' If being the best part of a mile in the air, and having men's farms at
your feet, with rivers looking like ribands, and mountains bigger than the
* Vision,' seeming to be haystacks of gi-een grass under you, give any
satisfaction to a man, I can recommend the spot."

* Bfifcrcnce is here made to the burning of tlio villngo uf Kinpston (wliuso Imliim nanio of K-mi-ims
was retained until a recent period), by a British forte under General Vuughun, in the Autumn of 1777.
t "Hawk-Eje."

158

THE HUDSON.

The aerial pictures seen from the Mountain House arc sometimes
marvellous, especially during a shower in the plain, when all is sunshine
above, while the lightning plays and the thunder rolls far below the
dwellers upon the summits ; or after a storm, when mists are driving over
the mountains, struggling with the wind and sun, or dissolving into
invisibility, in the pure air. At rare intervals, an apparition, like the
spectre of the Brocken, may be seen. A late writer, who was once there
during a summer storm, was favoured with the sight. The guests were
in the parlour, when it was announced that "the house was going past
on the outside ! " All rushed to the piazza, and there, sure enough, upon
a moving cloud, more dense than the fog that enveloped the mountain, wa?
a perfect picture of the great building, in colossal proportions. The mass
of vapour was passing slowly from north to south, directly in front, at a
distance, apparently, of two hundred feet from the building, and reflected
the noble Corinthian columns which ornament the front of the building,
every wiudoAV, and all the spectators. The cloud moved on, and "ere
long," says the writer, " we saw one pillar disappear, and then another.
We, ourselves, who were expanded into Brobdignags in size, saw the gulf
into which we Avere to enter and be lost. I almost shuddered when my
turn came, but there was no eluding my fate ; one side of my face was
veiled, and in a moment the whole had passed like a dream. An instant
before, and we were the inhabitants of a * gorgeous palace,' but it was
the 'baseless fabric of a vision,' and now there was left 'not a wreck
behind.' "

As a summer shower passes over the plain below, the effect at the
Mountain House is sometimes truly grand, even when the lightning is not
seen or the thunder heard. A young woman sitting at the side of the
writer when this page was penned, and who had recently visited that
eyrie, recorded her vision and impressions on the spot. "The whole
scene before us," she says, " was a vast panorama, constantly varying and
changing. The blue of the depths and distances — clouds, mountains, and
shadows — was such that the perception entered into our very souls. How
shall I describe the colour ? It was not mazarine, because there was no
blackuess in it ; it was not sunlit atmosphere, because there was no white
brightness in it ; and yot there was a sort of hidden, beaming brilliancy.

THE HUDSON.

159

that completely absorbed our eyes and hearts. It was not the blue of water,
because it was not liquid or crystal-like ; it was something as the calm,

soft, lustre of a steady blue eye And how various were the forms

and motions of the vapour ! Hills, mountains, domes, pyramids, wreaths
and sprays of mist arose, mounted, hung, fell, curled, and almost leaped
before us, white with their own spotlessncss, but not bright with the sun's

rays, for the luminary was still obscured "We looked down to

behold what we might discover. A breath of heaven oloared the mist

VIEW FROM SOITII MOLKTAIS.

from below,— softly at first, but gradually more decisive. Larger and
darker became a spot in the magic depths, when, lo ! as in a vision, fields,
trees, fences, and the habitations of men were revealed before our eyes.
For the first time something real and refined lay before us, far down in
that wonderful gulf. Far beneath heaven and us slept a speck of creation,
unlighted by the evening rays that touched us, and colourless in the
twilight obscurity. Intently we watched the magic glass, but — did we
breathe upon its surface ? — a mist fell before us, and we looked wp as if
awakened from a dream."

i 'I

■II-

Althoagh the Mountain House is far below the higher summits of the
range, portions of four States of the Union, and an area of about ten
thousand square miles, are comprised in the scope of vision from its piazza.
From the top of the South Mountain near, and three hundred feet above
the Mountain House, and of the Korth Mountain more distant and higher,
a greater range of sight may be obtained, including a portion of a fifth
State. From tJie latter, a majestic view of mountain scenery, and ot the
lowlands southward, may be obtained at the price of a little fatigue, for
which full compensation is given. The Katers-Kill* lakes, lying in a
basin a short distance from the Mountain House, with all their grand
surroundings, the house itself, and the South Mountain, and the Round
Top or Liberty Cup, form the middle ground ; while in the dim distance
the winding Hudson, with the Esopus, Shawangunk, and Highla id ranges
are revealed, the borders of the river dotted with villas and towns
appearing mere white specks on the landscape.

CHAPTElt IX.

LITTLE more than two miles from tho Moimtuiu
House, by a rough road, is an immense gorge
scooped from the rugged hills, into which pours
the gentle outlet of the Httle Katers-KiU lakes, in
a fall first of one hundred and seventy-five feet,
and close to it another of eighty feet. The falls
have been so well described by the " Lcathcr-
' stuoldng" ("Natty Bumpo "), thai a better
picture cannot be drawn : —
'' There's a place," said I^atty, after describing the view from
the Platform Eock at the Mountain House, "that in late times I
relished better than the mountains, for it was more kivered by the
trees, and more nateral."

" And where was that?" inquired Edwards.
" Why, there's a fall in the hills, where the water of two little ponds,
that lie near each other, breaks out of their bounds, and runs over the
rocks into the valley. The stream is, may be, such a one as would turn
a mill, if so useless a thing was wanted in the wilderness. But the hand
that made that 'Leap' never made a mill! There the water comes
crooking and winding among the rocks, first so slow that a trout might
swim in it, and then starting and running, just like any creatur that
wanted to make a far spring, till it gets to where the mountain divides
like the cleft hoof of a deer, leaving a deep hollow for the brook to
tumble into. The first pitch is nigh two hundred feet, and the water
looks like flakes of driven snow afore it touches the bottom ; and then the
stream gathers itself together agaiu for a new start, and may be flutters
over fifty feet of flat rock, before it falls for another hundred, where it
jumps about from shelf to shelf, first turning this-a-way, and then turning
- r

! !

102

THE HUDSON.

that-a-way, striving to get out of the hollow, till it finally comes to the

plain The rock sweeps like mason-work in a half-round on both

siiles of the fall, and shelves over the bottom for fifty feet ; so that when
I've been sitting at the foot of the first pitch, and my hounds have run

KATBRS KILL FALLS.

into the caverns behind the sheet of water, they've looked no bigger than
so many rabbits. To my judgment, lad, it's the best piece of work I've
met with in the woods ; and none know how often the hand of God is seen
in the wilderness, but them that rove it for a man's life."
" Does the water run into the Delaware ? " asked Edwards.

THE HUDSON.

163

" No, no, it's a drop for the old Hudson : and a merry time it has until
it gets down off the mountain."

And if the visitor would enjoy one of the wildest and most romantic
rambles in the world, let him follow that little stream on its way "off tho
mountains." down the deep, dark, mysterious gorge, until it joins the
Katers-Kill proper, that rushes through the "Clove" from the neigh-
bourhood of Hunter, among tho hills above, and thence onward to the
plain.

It was just after a storm when we last visited these falls. The traces
of "delicate-footed May " were upon every shrub and tree. Tiny leaves
were just unfolding all over tho mountains, and the snowy dogwood
blossoms were bursting into beauty on every hand. Yet mementoes of
winter were at the falls. In the cavern at the back of them, heaps of ice
lay piled, and a chilling mist came sweeping up tho gorge, at quick
intervals, filling the whole amphitheatre with shadowy splendour when
sunlight fell upon it from between the dissolving clouds. While
sketching the cascades, memory recurred to other visits we had made there
in midsummer, when the wealth of foliage lay upon u.e and shrub; and
also to a description given us by a lady, of her visit to the falls in winter,
with Cole, the artist, when the frost had crystallised the spray into
gorgeous fret-work all over the rocks, and made a spendid cylinder of
milk-white ice from the base to the crown of the upper cascade. Of these
phases Bryant has sung : —

"Midst greens and shades the Katers-Kill leaps,
From cliffs where the wood-flower clings ;
All summer he moistens his verdant steeps.
With the sweet light spray of the mountain springs ;
And he shakes the woods on the mountain side,
When they drip with the rains of autumn tide.

"But when, in the forests bare and old,
The blast of December caUs,
He builds, in the star-light clear and cold,
A palace of ice, where his torrent falls,
With turret, and arch, and fret-work fair.
And pilhus blue as the summer air."

The tourist, if he fails to traverse the rugged gorge, should not omit
a ride from the Mountain House, down through the "Clove" to Palensville

164

THE HUDSON.

and th? plain, a distance of about eight miles. TJnpleasant as was the day
when we last visited the mountains, we returned to Katz-Kill by that
circuitous route. After leaving the falls, we rode about three miles before
reaching the " Clove." Huge masses of vapour came rolling up from its
lower depths, sometimes obscuring everything around us, and then,

'IIB i'AW.N'fl LKAl'.

drifting away, laving the lofty summits of the moiiutains that stretch far
southward, gleaming in tlie fitful sunlight, and presenting unsurpassed
exhibitions of ai-rial porspoctivc. Down, down, soiactimes with only a
narrow space between the base of a high mountain on. one side, and steep

THE HUDSON.

165

precipices upon the other, whose feet arc washed by the rushing Kater3-
Kill, our crooked road pursued its way, now passing a log-house, now a
pleasant cottage, and at length the ruins of a leather manufacturing village,
deserted because the bark upon the hills around, used for tanning, is
exhausted. Near this picturesq[ue scene, the Katers-Kill leaps into a

SCENn 0\ TlIK iiAXKRS-KILL, NKAll I'ALK.NSVILI.K.

seething gulf between cleft rocks, and Hows gently on to make still greater
plunges into darker depths a short distance below. This cleft in the rocks
is called the Fawn's Leap, n young deer having there escaped a liunter
and his dog, that pursued to the verge of the chasm. The fawn leaped it.

ir~1

166

THE HUDSON.

Ill ■
111

but tho dog, attempting to follow, fell into the gulf below and was
drowned- The foiled hunter went home, without dog or game. By some,
less poetical than other? tho place is called the Dog Hole.

A few rods below the Fawn's Leap, the road crosses a rustic bridge, at
tlio foot of a sheer precipice, and for half a mile traverses a shelf cut from
the mountain side, two hundred feet above the stream that has found its
way into depths so dark as to be hardly visible. Upon the opposite side
of the creek a perpendicular wall rises many hundred feet, and then in
slight inclination the raountain towers up at least a thousand feet higher,
and forms a portion of the range known as the South Mountain. At the
mouth of this cavernous gorge lies the pretty little village of Palensville,
where we again cross the stream, and in a few moments find ourselves
upon a beai'liful and highly cultivated plain. From this point, along the
base of the mountains to the road by which v/c enter them, or more directly
to Katz-Kill, the drive is a delightful one.

From the lower borders of Columbia County, opposite Katz-Kill village,
to Hyde Park, in Duchess County, a distance of thirty miles, the east
bank of the Hudson iS distinguished for olu ind elegant country seats,
most of them owned and occupied by the descendants of wealthy
proprietors who flourished in tho list century, and were connected by
blood and marriage with Robert Livingston, a Scotch gentleman, of
the family of the Earls of Linlitbt,jw, who came to America in 1672,
and married a member of the S huyler family, the widow of a Yan
Rensselaer. He lived at Albany, and was secretary to the Commissioners
of Indian Aff'airs for a long time. From 1084 to 1715 ho had, from
time to time, purchased of the Irdians, and secured by patents from the
English crown, large tracts of hmd in the present Columbia County.
This land was then mostly wild and unprofitable, but Lceamc tho basis
of great family wealth.

In the y(^ar 1710 Livingston's grants were consolidated, and Hunter,
the royal governor, gave him a patent for a tract of a little more than
one hundred and si.\ty-two thousand acres, for which he was to pay into
the king's treasury "an annual rent of twenty-eight shillings, lawful
money of New York," a trifle over fourteen shillings sterling! This
magnificent estate was constituted a manor, with political privileges.

I ..;«'

I I

THE HUDSON.

167

The freeholders upon it were allowed a reprcsentativo in the colonial
legislature, chosen by themselves, and in 1716 the lord of the manor, by
virtue of that privilege, took his seat as a legislator. He had already
built a manor-house, on a grassy point upon the banks of the Hudson, at

.^tJ^S^^^^!?^^^

OI.U Cl.KKMONT

the mouth of Rocleffe Jansen's Kill, or Ancram Creek, of which hardly a
vestige now remaius.^^ »

The lord of the manor gave, by his will, the lower portion of his
domain to his son Robert, who built a finer mansion than the old manor-
house, and named his beat Clermont. This was sometimes called the

• In thu yenr 1710 Goveriipr Huiiler, by oidcr of Queen Anne, bought of Mr. LivinKstoii a.OOO ncres
of Ills manor, for the onn of a lillJo more than iaoo, for tlie use of Protestant tierinans tlicii in En^bind,
who had been driven from llieir homes in the Lower TaUitinate of the Khine, then the dominions of a
cousin of llie Ilritiah (iu>.'en. About 1,800 of them settled upon the manor hinds, and at a place on the
opposite shore of the river, the respective locahties bein^j known as Eos' and West Camp. Tlicse
Oormaiis were called Palatines, aiul are represented as the most cMlightenod people of their native land.
Amonn them was the widow llaiiindi Zen^jer, whoso sou, .lohn Teler, apprenticed to William Bradfonl,
the printer, became, in after life, the iinpersoiuition of the stru^^tliiig democratic i<lea. He piiblisheil a
democratic new.^pnper, and because lu^ conunented freely npoi the conduct of the royal (rovernor, he
was imprisoned and pni-sccuted for a libel. A jiny acijuitted lorn, in the midst of great die 'ring by the
people. His counsel was presented with the freedom of the cily of New York iu a «!uld box. Hy that
verdict democratic ideas, and the freedom of the press, were nobly vindicated.

168

THE HUDSON.

Lower Manor-house. There Robert E. Livingston, the eminent Chan-
cellor of the State of New York, and associate of Eobert Tulton, in his
steamboat experiments, was born. After his marriage he built a
dwelling for himself, a little south of Old Clermont. His zeal in the
Republican cause, at the kindling of the revolution, made him an arch
rebel in the estimation of the British ministiy and the officers in the
service of the crown in America; and when, in the autumn of 1777,
General Vaughan, at the head of the royal troops, went up the Hudson,

CLBBMONa'.

on a marauding expedition, to produce a diversion in favour of Rui'goyne,
then environed by the American arrr^y at Saratogu, they proceeded as
high as Clevniout, burnt Living&tou'r! new house, and the old one, where
he was born, and where his widowed mother resided, and then retreated
to New York. Mrs, Livingston immediately built another mansion at
Old Clermont, on the site of the ruins, which was occupied by Mr, Cler-
mont Livingston when these sketches were prepared, and her "rebel"
son erected for himself a more elegant one than that wliich had be-^a
destroyed, a little distance from the ruins. This he named also Clermont.

ills

li!: ii

THE HUDSON.

169

It was well preserved in its original style by the Misses Olarkson, the
present proprietors. The mansion is beautifully situated, and, like all
the villas in this neighbourhood, commands a fine prospect of the Katz-
bergs. It was described, as long ago as 1812, as "one of the most
commodious houses in the State, having a river front of 104 feet, and a
depth of 91 feet, and consisting of a main body of two stories and four
pavilions," in one of which the chancellor had "a library of 4,000 well-
chosen volumes." There he died in the spring of 1813.

"Mr. Livingston," says a contemporary, "was a very useful and
benevolent man, a scholar of profound erudition, an ardent patriot, and a
prompt and decided promoter of all the essential interests of the country."
He took special interest in improvements in agriculture and mamifactures,
and on his return to the United States, from an embassy to France, at the
beginning of the present century, he introduced into this country some of
the finest specimens of the Merino sheep, from the celebrated flock of
llambouillct in France. As early as 1812, it was estimated that there
were in the United States at least 60,000 descendants of the Clermont
flock, of which about 1,000 were at Clermont.

Mr. Livingston's chief honour as a man of science, and promoter of
useful interests, is derived from his aid and encouragement in eff'orts
which resulted in the entire success of steam navigation. As early as
1797, he was engaged with an Englishman named Nesbit in experiments.
They built a steamboat on the Hudson river, at a place now known as
Do Koven's Cove, or Bay, about half a mile below Tivoli, or Upper Red
.Hook Landing. Brunei, the engineer of the Thames Tuniii.i, and father
of the originator and constructor of the Great Eastern steamship, was the
engineei*. The enterprise was not successful. Livingston entered upon
other experiments, when ho was interrupted by his appointment as
United States minister to the court of France. In Paris he became
ac(iuainted with llobcrt*Fulton's experiments there. "With his science
and money, Livingston joined him. They succeeded iu their undertaking,
as proved by demonstrations on the Seine, returned to America, and in
180(5 imported a steam-engiiu', made by Watt an^l Jiolton, iu England.
A boat was constructed at Brown's ship-yard, in New York, and was
completed in August, 1807, when it was propelled by its machinery to

■If

170

THE HUDSON.

Hoboken, on the Jersey shore, Avhcrc Jolin Stevens (Mr. Livingston's
brother-in-law) had been experimenting in the same direction for fifteen
years. That first successful steamboat was named Clermont, in compli-

MI'.W AT Uli Ku\i;NS liAi .

ment to Chancellor Livingston, and made her first voyage to Albany at
the beginning of September, 1807.*

At Tivoli is the mansion of John Swift Livingston, Esq., built before

* Tlio Cieniitint was KiO feet loiip, 12 feet wide, mid 7 feet deei).
uppeurcd in the AlOiiny Guzettc on the i of September, 18(t7 : —

The following advertiacineut

" The Aort/i Itivcr Stcainhont will leave Puulus's Hook
[Jcitoy City] on Friday, the 4lh of .September, aX 9 in the
nioniing, and arrivi- at Albany on Saturday, at 9 in the
afternoon. Provisions, good berth.", and atconiniodiuion are
provided. The diarge to each passenger is as follows :—

To Newburgh, Dollars, 3 Time, 14 hours.
„ Poiighkeepsie „ 1 ,, 17 „
„ Ksopus „ 6 „ 2U „
„ Hudson „ 6^ „ 30 „
„ Albany „ 7 „ 'M „

" Mr, Fulton's new steuniboat," said the same paper, on
the 5th of October, " left New York on the and, at 10 o'clock,
A.M., against a strong tide, veiy rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She ni.ide n hcadwaj',
against the most sanguine expectations, and without being rocked by the waves! "

TllK CI.i:)!.MO.M

TteBdr-,dWB'giagiaai aauafrrfr-a-' tt^jaattatgy .^a. i i» r <uiw wi<teJ.^/**oM ja.

THE HUDSON.

171

the Avar fox- independence. It is surrounded by a pleasant park and
gardens, and commands a view of the village of Saugertics, on the west
shore of the Hudson, and that portion of the Katzberga on which the
Mountain House stands. That building may be seen, as a white spot on
the distant hills, in our sketch. Mr. Livingston's house was occupied by
one of that name whon the British burnt Old Clermont and the residence
of the chancellor. They landed in De Koven's Cove, or Bay, just below,
and came up witli destructive intent, supposing this to be the residence

LIVINGSTON'S MANSION AT TIVOLI.

of the arch offender. The proprietor was a good-humoured, hospitable
man. He soon conviiicod the invaders of their error, supplied them
bountifully with wine and other refreslnnents, and made them so kindly
and cheery, that had ho been tlic "rebel" himself, they must have spared
his property. They passed on, performed their destructive errand, partook
of the good things of Mr. Livingston's larder and Avinc-cellar on their
return, and sailed down the river to apply the torch to Kingston, a few
miles below.

Opposite Tivoli, in Ulster County, is the pleasant village of Sanger-

till-
ill

172

THE HUDSON.

tics,* near the mouth of the Esopus Creek, which comes flowing from the
south through a heautiful valley, and enters the Hudson here. Iron,
paper, and white-lead are manufactured there extensively, and between
the river and the mountains are almost inexhaustible quarries of flagging
stone. A once picturesque fall or rapid, around which a portion of tlie
village is clustered, has been partially destroyed by a dam and unsightly

JIOtTlI Ol- luSOl'lS CRUICK, ,«.\l l. I.i; 11 1 s,

bridge above it, yet some features of gi-andeur and beauty remain. The
chief business part of the village lies upon a plain with the Katzbergs for
a background, and on the high right bank of the creek, where many of
the first-class residences are situated, an interesting view of the mouth of
Zaeger's Kill, or Esopus Creek, with the lighthouse, river, and the fertile
lands on the eastern shore, may be obtained. Near this village was the
West Camp of the Palatines, already mentioned.

About live miles below Tivoli is Anuandale, tlie seat of John

» Incorpomted lister in 1931. The name is (Iciiveil from tlie Diitcli woiil ^laeger, a sawyer. Peter
I'icterscii Imvintt liiiili a Biiw-mill at tlie Fiilla, wlioiv the villnge stand;', tlie stream was called Sowyer's
Creek, or Ziieger'* Kill, ginee, by comiiition, Saiigorties.

THE HUDSON.

173

i: S

ST. STKI'IIEK'S COLLEGE.

Bard, Esq. As we approached it from the north on a pleasant day in
June, along the picturesque road that links almost a score of beautiful
villas, the attention was suddenly arrested by the appearance of an elegant
little church, built of stone in the early Anglo-Gothic style, standing on
the verge of an open park. K"ear it was a long building, in similar style
of architecture, in course of erection. On inquiry, we found the church
to be that of the Holy Innocents, built by the proprietor of Annandale
upon his estate, for the use of the inhabitants of that region as a free
chapel. The ne,w building was for
St. Stephen's College, designed as a
training school for those who are pre-
paring to enter the General Thoological
Seminary of the Protestant Episcopal
Church, in New York city. Eor this
purpose Mr. Bard had appropriated,
as a gratuity, the munificent sum of
00,000 dollars. He had deeded eigh-
teen acres of land to the College, and pledged 1,000 dollars a year for the
support of a professor in it. The institution had been formally recognised
Its, tlio Diocesan Training College; the legislature of New York had
granted the trustees an act of incorporation, and liberal subscriptions had
been made to place it upon a stable foundation. In the midst of the
0()'yp of fine old trees seen in the direction of the river bank from the
road /n.i/' tlio College, stands the Yilla of Annandale, like all its
ji6ig}ibours commanding extensive river and mountain scenery.

AdjoJiiifig Annandale on the .south is Montgomery Place, the residence
of the family of the Jate Edward Livingston, brother of the Chancellor,
who is distinguished in tlio annals of his country as a leading United
States senator, the author of the penal code of the State of Louisiana, and
ambassador to tton(r\ The elegant mansion was built by the widow of
General Ki.liind Montgomery, a companion-in-arms of Wolfe when ho
fell at Quebec, and w)u, perisJicd under the walls of that city at the head
of a storming party of' iicpiiblicans on tlio 31st of December, 1775.
Montgomery was one of tlie noblest and bravest men of liis age. When
he gave his young wifo o paiting kiss at the house of General Schuyler,

!ii! I

I i

174

THE HUDSON.

at Saratoga, and hastened to join that officer at Ticondcroga, in the
eampnign that proved fatal to him, he said, " You shall never blush for
your Montgomery." Clalliintly did he vindicate that pledge. And when
his virtues weru extolled hy Barre, Burke, and others in the British
parliament, Lord North exclaimed, "Curse on his virtues; he has undone
his country."

The "wife of ^Montgomery was a sister of Chancellor Livingston. With
ample pecuniary means and good taste at command, she built this mansion,

MOM'GOMEBV I'LACK.

and there spent fifty yeai's of widowhood, childless, but cheerful. The
mansion and its 400 acres passed into the possession of her brother
Edward, '"nd there, as we have observed, members of his family now reside.
Of all the fine estates alon;^ this portion of the Hudson, this is said to be
the most perfect in its beauty and arrangements. AVaterfalls, picturesque
bridges, romantic glens, groves, a magnificent park, oue of the most
beautiful of the ornamental gardens in this country, and views of the river
and mountains, unsurpassed, render Montgomery Place a retreat to he
coveted, even by the most i'avoured of fortune, j

Four miles by tlio railway below Tivoli is the Ikirrytown Statiun, or
Lower lied Hook Landing. The ^ illages of Upper and Lower lied Hook,
like most of the early towns along the Hudson, lie back from the rivc^-.
Tivoli and Larrytown are their respective ports. A short distance lielow
the latter, connected by a winding avenue with the public road already
mentioned, is llokeby, the seat of William IJ. Astor, Esq., who is
distinguished as the wealthiest man in the United States. It was formerly
the I'csidence of his father-in-law, General John Armstrong, an officer iii

TllK KATZBEBUS FROM MOM'OOMKUV I'l.ACE.

the war for independence, and a member of General Gates's military
family. Armstrong was the author of the celebrated addresses which
were privately circulated among the officers of the Continental Army lying
at Ncwburgh, on the Hudson, at the close of the war, and calculated to
stir up a mutiny, and even a rebellion against the civil power. The feeble
Congress had been unable for a long time to provide for the pay of the
soldiers about to be disbanded and sent home in poverty and rags. There
was apathy in Congress and among the people on the subject ; and these
addresses were intended to stir up the latter and their representatives to

wsm

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0 V^'

I.I

■^ 1^ 12.2
1

IK Wmm

u llDl

2.0

1.8

1.25 IIIIII.4

1.6

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STRICT

WEBSTSR.N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

■^^

^^^ •=

176

THE HUDSON.

the performance of their duty iu moking some provision for their faithful
servants, rather than to excite the army to take affairs into their own
hand, as was charged. Through the wisdom and firmness of Washington,
the event was so overruled as to give honour to the army and benefit the
country. Washington afterwards acquitted Major Armstrong of all evil
intentions, and considered his injudicious movement (instigated, it is
supposed, by Gates) as a patriotic ;. ot.

Armstrong afterwards married a sister of Chancellor Livingston, and

BUKEBV.

was chosen successively to a seat in the United States senate, an
ambassador to France, a brigadier- general in the army, and secretary-of-
war. He held the latter office while England and the United States were
at war, in 1812-14. Ho was the author of a "Life of General Mont-
gomery," "Life of General Wayne," and "Historical Notices of the War
of 1812." Eokeby, where this eminent man lived and died, is delightfully
situaied, in the midst of an undulating park, farther from the river than
the other villas, but commanding some interesting glimpses of it, with
more distant landscapes and mountain scenery. Among the latter may
bo seen the range of the Shawangunk (pronounced shon-gum), in the far

THE HUDSON.

177

Here Mr. Astor's family reside about eight months of the

^^ B^i5r'^

-mi

JIKEKMAU'S HOUSE.

south-'west.
year.

A few miles below Bokeby, and lying upon an elevated plain two miles
from the river, is the beautiful village of Ehinebcck, containing little
more than 1,000 inhabitants. The first settler was William Beckman, or
Beckman, who came from the Ehine, in Germany, in 1647, purchased all
this region fiom the Indians, and gave homes to several poor families who
camo with him, The name of the river in
his fatherland, and his own, are commemo-
rated in the title of the town— -Bhine-Beck.
The house built by him is yet standing, upon
a high point near the Bhinebeck station.
It IS a stone building. The bricks of which
the chimney is constructed were imported
from Holland. In this house the first public
religious services in that regioa were held,
and it was used as a fortress in early times, against the Indians. It
now belongs to the Heermance family, descendants of early settlers
there. Beekman's son, Henry, afterwards procured a patent from the
English government for a very extensive tract of land in Duchess County,
including his Bhinebeck estate.

Just below the Bhinebeck Station is EUerslie, the seat of the Hon.
"William Kelly. IS^o point on tae Hudson commands a more interesting
view of the river and adjacent scenery, than the southern front of the
mansion at EUerslie. The house is at an elevation of two hundred feet
above the river, overlooking an extensive park. The river is in full view
for more than fourteen miles. At the distance of about thirty-five miles
are seen the Fish-Kill Mountains, and the Hudson Highlands, while on
the west, the horizon is bounded by the lofty Katzbergs.

EUerslie is ninety miles from New York city, and contains about seven
hundiod acres of laud, with a front on the river of a mile and a-half. Its
character is different from that of an ordinary villa residence, being
cultivated with much care as a farm, whilst great regard is had to
improving its beauty, and developing landscape effects. The lawn and
gardens occupy thirty acres; the greenhouse, graperies, &c., are among

A A

178

THE HUDSON.

the most complete in this country. The park contains three hundred
acres ; its surface is undulated, with masses of old trees scattered over it,
and upon it feeds a large herd of thorough-bred Durham cattle, which the
proprietor considers a more appropriate ornament than would be a herd
of deer.

A mile below Ellerslie is WildercliflF,* the seat of Miss Mary Garrettson.
daughter of tho eminent Methodist preacher, Freeborn Garrettson, who

married a sister of Chancellor Livingston,

Tho mansion is a very modest

KLLKItSLIE.

one, compared with some in its neighbourhood. It was built in accordance
with the simple tastes of tho original proprietor. Mr. Garrettson was a
leader among the plain Methodists in the latter part of the last century,
when that denomination was beginning to take fast hold upon the public
mind in America, and his devoted, blameless life did much to commend
his people to a public disposed to deride them.

» More properly Wilder Ktippc. Tliis la a Dutch woril, sigiiifyinpt wild man's, or wild Tiuliaii's,
cliffe. The first settlors found upon a smooth rock, on the river shoro, at this pliice, a rude delineation
of two Indians, one with a. tomithawk, and the other a culumet, or pipe of pcatc. This giive them tho
idea of tho nunie.

THE HUDSON.

179

The very beautiful view from this mansion, down the river, is
exceedingly charming for its simple beauty, so much in harmony with
the associations of the place. In the centre of the lawn stood a sun-dial.
On the left was a magnificent wide-spreading elm. Ou the right, through
the trees, might be seen the cultivated western shore of the Hudson, with
the mountains beyond, and in front was the river, stretching away south-
ward, at all times dotted with the white sails of water-craft. This
mansion has many associations connected with the early struggles of

viKW rnoj[ wii.Diir.ci.n r.

Methodism, very deai to the hearts of those who love that branch of the
Christian church.

When Mr. Garrcttsou left the Church of England, in which he had
been educated, the Methodists were despised in most places. Ko was a
native <3f Maryland. Eminently conscientious, he gave his slaves their
freedom, and entering upon his ministry, preached everywhere, on all
occasions and at all times, offending the wicked and delighting the good,
and fearless of all men, having full faitlx in a special Providence, and
oftentimes experiencing proofs of the truth of the idea to wliich he clung.
One example of his proofs may be cited. A mob had seized him on one

mmm

180

THE HUDSON.

occasion, and were taking him to prison by order of a magistrate, when
a flash of lightning dispersed them, and they left him unmolested. In
1788 he was appointed Presiding Elder over the churches in the district,
extending from Long Island Sound to Lake Champlain, more than two
hundred miles. One of his converts was the daughter of Judge Livingston,
of Clermont. Mr. Garrettson married her in 1793, and six years after-
\ ards they built the mansion at Wildercliff. Probably no house in the
world has ever held within it so many Methodist preachers as this, from
the most humble of "weak vessels" up to Bishop Asbury, and other
dignitaries of the church ; for, with ample means at command, the doors
of Mr. Garrettson and his wife were ever open to all, especially to their
brethren in the ministry. And that generous hospitality is yet dispensed
by the daughter, whose table is seldom without a guest.

CHAPTER X.

^ PPOSITE Ehinebeck Station is the old Kingston Landing,

where the three thousand ]{ritish troops under General

Vaughan disembarked, and marched to the village of

wr% Kingston, two miles in the interior, and laid it in

'^ ashes. That point was the port of Kingston until

within a few years, and the New York and Albany steamboats

stopped there, but the thi-iving village at the mouth of the Kondout

Creek, about a mile below, has caused it to be abandoned.

The village of Kingston (originally called Esopus)— situated
upon a broad plain on the banks of the Esopus Creek, with a
fine range of the southern Katzbergs in the reai- — is one of the oldest
settlements in the State of New York * As early as 1614, Dutch traders
built a redoubt at the mouth of Rondout (a corruption of Redoubt) Creek.
A few families settled soon afterwards upon or near the site of Kingston,
and called the place Wiltwyck, or Wild Indian Town. They were soon
dispersed by the savages. Another settlement then followed ; again the
savages dispersed them. FinaUy, in 1660, a treaty was concluded that
seemed to promise security to the settlers. But the wrath of the Indians
became fiercely kindled against the white people by Governor Stuyvesant,
who sent eleven Indian captives to Cuj'a9oa, and sold them for slaves.
In June, 1663, the Indians came into the open fort in great numbers
professedly to trade. At a concerted signal they fell upon the white
people, murdered eighteen of them, and carried away forty-two as
captives. The out settlements were all destroyed. A destructive war
ensued. The Indians were expelled from the fort, and nine days after-
wards a reinforcement came from New Amsterdam. The savages were
pursued and almost exterminated. In the autumn they returned all the
captives but three, and sued for peace.

» The Indiftns appropriately called this spot At-kan-karten, Smooth Land.

182

THE HUDSON.

' r

Many'of the persecuted Huguenot families who fled from France settled
at Kingston and in its vicinity, towards the close of the seventeenth
century; and when the war for independence broke out in 1775, their
descendants were found on the side of the republicans. Kingston was
called a "nest of rebels." There, in the spring of 1777, the representatives
of the people of the State formed a state constitution, and organised civil
government under it. The first session of the legislature was held there
in July following, but the members were obliged to flee in the autumn, on

KINGSTON.

the approach of Yaughan and his troops. These ascended the river from
the Highlands, where Sir Henry Clinton had gained a victory, taken
possession of Forts Clinton and Montgomery, and destroyed the obstructions
in the river which prevented vessels passing northward. The object of
Vaughan's expedition, as wo have said, was to draw the attention of Gates
and his army (then casting their meshes around Burgoyne) to the country
below, where devastation and ruin were threatened. After passing the
Highlands, they distressed the people along the shores of the river very
much by burnings and plunderings. They landed at the port of Esopus,

THE HUDSON.

183

or Kingston, on the 13th of October, and proceeded to the village in two
divisions. The town contained about 300 inhabitants, and the houses were
mostly of stone. The people fled with what property they could carry
away, and the soldiery burned every house but one.

It is related that when the British landed at Kingston Point, some
Dutchmen were at work just below it, and were not aware of the fact
until they saw the dreaded " red-coats " near them. It was low water,
and across the flats on the river shore they fled toward the place of the
present village of Eondout as fast as their legs could carry them, not
presuming to look behind them, lest, like Lot's wife, they might be detained.
The summer haymakers had loft a rake on the marsh meadow, and upon
this one of the fugitives trod. The handle flew up behind him, and gave
him a severe blow on the back of his head. Not doubting that a
"Britisher" was close upon his heels, he stopped short, and throwing up
his hands imploringly, exclaimed, "0 mcin Got! mein Got! I kivs up.
Hoorah for King Shorgo ! " The innocent rake was all the enemy that
was near, and the fugitive's sudden conversion was known only to a
companion in the race, who had outstripped him a few paces.

Hurley, a few miles from Kingston, became the place of refuge for the
sufi"erers from the conflagration of the latter town. There, while Esopus
was in flames, the republicans hanged a spy, who had been caught' in the
American camp near Newburgh, a few days before. He had been sent by
Sir Henry Clinton with a message to Burgoync. When apprehended on
suspicion, he was seen to cast something into his mouth and swallow it.
An emetic was administered, and a silver bullet, hollow and elliptical in
shape, was produced. In it, written upon tissue paper, was the following
note, dated Fort Montgomery, October 8, 1777 : —

*' Mus ij void, and nothing now between us and Gates. I sincerely
hope this little succour of ours may facilitate your operation. In answer
to your letter of the 28th, by C. C, I shall only say I cannot presume to
order, or even advise, for reasons obvious. I heartily wish you success.

«* Faithfully yours, " H. Cliitton."

The prisoner was tried : out of his own mouth he was condemned. He
was taken to Hurley, and there hanged upon au apple-tree. That silver

184

THE HUDSON.

bullet and the note arc preserved in the family of Governor George
Clinton.

Kingston village is a very pleasant one, and the country about it aflfords
d<>Hglitful drives. Its population in 1860 was about 4,000, and the space
between it and llondout, a mile and a half distant, was rapidly filling up
with dwellings. The two villages were already connected by gas-pipes,
and public conveyances ply between them continually.

Rondout (Hcdoubt), at the mouth of llondout Creek, is one of the
busiest places on the river between Albany and New York. It was
formerly called the Strand, then Kingston Landing, and finally Bolton,

iioMioLT ikl;;-i;,

in honour of the then president of the Delaware and Hudson Canal
Company. That canal, which penetrates the coal region of Pennsylvania,
has its eastern terminus at Eddyville, two and a half miles up the
Rondout Creek ; and the mouth of that stream is continually crowded
with vessels engaged in carrying coals and other commodities. Immense
piers have been erected in the middle of the stream for the reception and
forwarding of coal. Here, and in the vicinity, are manufactories of
cement, and also extensive quarries of flagstone — all of which, with the

agricultural products of the adjacent country, giving freights to twenty
steamboats and many sailing vessels. Lines of steamers run regularly
from Rondout to Albany and 'New York, and intermediate places, and a
steam ferry-boat connects the place with the Rhinebeck Station.

The population of Rondout was about 6,000 in 1860. The greater
proportion of the able-bodied men and boys were, in some way, connected
with the coal business. Another village, the offspring of the same trade,
and of very recent origin, stands just below the mouth of the Rondout
Creek. It was built entirely by the Pennsylvania Coal Company. From
that village, laid out in 1851, and containing a population of about
1,400 souls, a large portion of the coal brought to the Hudson on the
Ocinal was shipped in barges for the north and west. It is called Port
Ewen, in honour of John Ewen, then president of the company.

Placentia is the name of the beautifully situated country seat of the
late James Kirke Paulding, a mile above the village of Hyde Park, and
seven north from Poughkeepsie. It stands upon a gentle eminence, over-
looking a pleasant park of many acres, and commanding an extensive
prospect of a fertile farming country on both sides of the river. Almost
opposite Placentia is the model farm of Robert L. Pell, Esq., whose
apples, gathered from thousands of trees, are familiar to those who make
purchases in the American and English fruit markets. Placentia has no
history of special interest. It is a simple, beautiful retreat, now conse-
crated in memory as the residence of a venerable novelist and poet— the
friend and associate of Washington Irving in his early literary career.
They were associated in the conducting of an irregular periodical entitled
" Salmagundi," the principal object of which was to satirise the follies
and foibles of fashionable life. Contrary to their expectation, it obtained
a wide circulation, and they found many imitators throughout the
country. It was brought to an abrupt conclusion by the refusal of the
publisher to allow them any compensation. Paulding and Irving were
personal friends through a period of more than fifty years. Mr. Paulding
lived in elegant retirement, at his country scat, for many years, enjoying
his books, his pictures, and his friends. He passed away, at the
beginning of 1860, at the age of more than fourscore years.

Our last visit to Placentia was at the close of a most deHghtful afternoon

B B

186

THE HUDSON.

in early June. A sweet repose rested upon land and water. The golden
8un was delicately veiled in purple exhalations, and over all the scene
silence deepened the solemnity of the thought that we were treading
paths where a child of genius had daily walked, but who had lately
turned aside to be laid to rest in the cool shadows of the tomb.

The village of Hyde Park is upon a pleasant plain, high above the
river, and half a mile from it. It received its name from Peter Faulconier,
the private secretary of Sir Edward Hyde (afterwards Lord Combury),

riiACENTIA.

the governor of the province of New York at the beginning of the last
century. Faulconier purchased a large tract of land at this place, and
named it Hyde Park in honour of the governor. Here the aspect of the
western phores of the river changes from gently sloping banks and
cultivated fields to rocky and precipitous blufis ; and this character they
exhibit all the way to Hoboken, opposite New York, with few
inteiTuptions.

At Hyde Park the river makes a sudden bend between rocky bluffs,
and in a naiTower channel. On account of this the Dutch settlers called
the place Krom Ellehoge, or Crooked Elbow. As is frequently the caee

THE HUDSON.

18^

along the Hudson, the present name is a compound of Dutch and English,
and is called Crom Elbow.

Six miles below Hyde Park is the large rural city of Poughkecpsic,
containing about 17,000 inhabitants. The name is a modification of the
Mohegan word, Apo-heep-sinck,^ signifying " safe and pleasant harbour."
Between two rocky bluffs was a sheltered bay (now filled with wharves),

I'OUGHKEKPSIE, ?HOM LEWISDUnO.

into the upper part of which leaped, in rapids and cascades, the Winnakee,
called Fall Kill by the Dutch. The northerly bluff was called by the

Tlie name of tliis city, as found in records and on maps, exiiibils a most curious specimen of ortho-
graphic caprice, it being spelt in foity-two different waj-Si, as follows :-Pakeepsie. Pacapsey, Pakepscy
Paughkepsie, Pecapesy, Pecapsy, Pccapshe, Pocl.keepsinck, Poephkeepsing, Poeghkecksingk, Poegh-
kcepsink, Pochi-eepsey, Pochkeepsen, Poclikcopsy, Pochkepsen, Pocl.kyplisingh, Pockeepsy. Pockep-
se.ck Pockepsciig. Pokepsing, Poghkeop.sie, Poghkeepsinck, Poghkcepsing, Poglikepsc, Poglikepsen,
Poghkcepsink, Poghkeepson, Pogl.keop.e, Pokeepsigh, Pokeepsingh, Pokeepsink, Pokeepsy. Pokepsinck,
Pokkepscn, Pouglikeepsey, Poukeepsie, Poukeepsy, Pikipsi, Picipsi.Pokepsie.Pokeepjie.Poughkeepsie.

■M

188

THE HUDSON.

Dutch niange KlippOf or Snake or Adder Cliflf, because of the venomous
serpents which -vrere abundant there in the olden time. The southern
bluff bears the name of Call Kock, it having been a place from which the
settlers called to the captains of sloops or single-masted vessels, when
pa^8age in them was desired. With this bay, or ** safe harbour," is
associated an Indian legend, cf which the following is the substance : —
Oi'ce sone Delaware warriors came to this spot with Pequod captives.
Among the latter was a young chief, who was offered life and honour if
he would renounce his nation, receive the mark of the turtle upon his
breast, and become a Delaware brave. He rejected the degrading
proposition with disdain, and was bound to a tree for sacrifice, when a
shriek from o thicket startled the executioners. A young girl leaped
before them, and implored his life. She was a captive Pequod, with the
turtle on her bosom, and the young chief was her affianced. The
Delawares debated, when suddenly the \/ar-whoop cf some fierce Hurons
made them snatch their arms for defence. The maiden r^overed the
thongs that bound her lover, but in the deadly conflict that enfued, they
were separated, «'.ud a Huron chief carried off the captive as a trophy.
Her affianced conceived a bold design for her rescue, and proceeded
immediately to execute it. In the character of a wizard he entered the
Huron camp. The maiden was sick, and her captor etiployed the wizard
to prolcag her life, until he should satisfj his revenge upon Uncas, her
uncle, the great chief of the Mohegans. They eluded the vigilance of
the Huron, fled at nightfall, with swift feet, towards the Hudson, and in
the darkness, shot out upon its bosom, in a light canoe, followed by
blood-thirsty pursuers. The strong arm of the young Peiiuod paddled his
beloved one safely to a deep rocky nook near the moutL of the "Winnakee,
concealed her there, and with a few friendly Delawares whom he had
secured by a shout, he fought, conquered, and drove off the Huron
warriors. The sheltered nook whero the maiden lay was a safe harbour
for her, and the brave Pequod and his friends joyfully conflrmed its title
to Apo-keep-sinck.

Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch at the close of the seventeenth
century. The fiist substantial stone building was erected not far from
the Winnakee, by Baltua VanKlcek, in the year 1705, and remaiaod a

■Ijpil^HljIptMmijjjMirTl'i • I ir<;n>ni<jii;riiir

-.4.

THF. HUDSON.

189

THE VAN KL££K H0U8E

jiuodred and thirty years, when it made way for modem improvements.
Thib house, like many others built so early, was pierced with loop-
holes for musketry, near the roof, that being a necessary precaution
against attacks by the Indians. It was
the scene of stirring events, being for
many yeai's a tavern, and the gathering
place of the people. When the old
court-house was burned at the ouibroak
of the revolution, it became the meeting
place of the citizens for public purposes.
There Ann Lee, the founder of the
Shaker church in America, was con-
fined, in 1776, on a charge of com-
plicity with the enemies of republicanism. There the legislature of
New York, when driven by the torch from Kingston, in 1777, met, and
continued during two sessioLj ; and there many of the members of the
State Convention in 1788, to consider the Federal Constitution, found a
home during the session. The city is partly upon a hill-side, sloping to
the river, but chiefly upon an elevated plain, back of which is College
HiU, whoso summit is five hundred feet above the town. It is crowned
with an edifice modelled, externally, after the Temple of Minerva, at
Athen,., and devoted to the use of a popular institution of learning. The
views from this summit are extensive, and very interesting, and embrace
a region about twenty-five hundred square miles in extent of the most
diversified scenery. The city, appearing like a town in a forest, lies at
the foot of the spectator, and between the lofty Katzbergs on the north,
a.''d the Highlands on the south, the Hudson is_^seen at intervals, having
the '\ppearanc* of a chain of little lakes. Around, within an area of
twenty to thirty miles in diameter, spreads out a farming country, like; a
choiming picture, beautiful in every feature.

The general appearanco of Poughkeepsie from the hills above Lewis-
burg, on the western side of the Hudson, is given in our sketch. It is
one of the most delightful places for residence in the Lnited States. It
is centrally situated bolwoen New York the commercial, and Albany the
political, capital of the State. Its streets are shaded with maple, elm,

'%ii^t-^ W

190

THE HUDSON.

and acacia trees, and their cleanliness is proverbial. It is celebrated for
its numerous seminaries of learning for both sexes, the salubrity of its
climate, the fertility of the surrounding counti7, and the wealth and
general independence of its inhabitants. The eye and ear are rarely
offended by public exhibitions of squalor or vice, while evidences of thrift
are seen on every hand.

Fxom a high rocky bluff on the river front of Poughkeepsie, named the
Call Hock, exquisite views of the Hudson, north and south, may be
obtained. The scene southward, which includes a distant view of the

TUK HIGHLANDS, FROM POUGHKEEPSIE.

Highlands, is the most attractive. At all times the river is filled with
water-craft of almost every description. The most strikii^ objects on its
surface are fleets of barges from the northern and western canals, loaded
witli the products of the fields and forests, lashed or tethered together,
and towed by a steamboat. On these barges whole families sometimes
reside during the season of navigation; and upon lines stretched over
piles of lumber, newly- washed clothes may be frequently seen fluttering
in the brcczo. One of these fleets appears in our sketch.

Two inilcs h iw rouglikcepsic is Locust Grove, the seat of Professor

THE HUDSON.

191

Samuel F. B. Morse, an eminent artist and philosopher, the founder of
the American Academy of Design, but better known to the world as the
author of the system of telegraphing by electro-magnetism, new used in
almost eveiy' civilised country on the globe. For this wonderful contri-
bution to science and addition to the world's inventions for moral and
material advancement, he has been honoured by several royal testimonials,
honorary and substantial, and by the universal gratitude and admiration
of his countrymen. Locust Grove is his summer retreat, and from his
study he has electrographic communication with all parts of the United

Lot; 1ST aRovii.

States and the British provinces. The mansion is so embowered that it
is almost invisible to the traveller on the highway. But immediately
around it are gardens, conservatories, and a pleasant lawn, basking in the
sunshine, and through vistas between magnificent trees, glimpses may be
caught of the Hudson, the northern and southern ranges of mountains,
and villages tliat dot the western shore of the river. Here the master
dispenses a generous hospitality to fiicnds and strangers, and with the
winning graces of a modest, unobtrusive nature, he delights all who enter
the charmed circle of Locust Grove. For the man of taste and genius his

192

THE HUDSON.

home is one of the most charming retreats to be found on the banks of
the Hudson from the wilderness to the sea.

About four miles below Poughkeepsie is an ancient stone farm-house
and a mill, at the mouth of Spring Brook, at the eastern terminus of the
Milton Ferry. Here, during the old war for independence, lived Theophilus
Anthony, a blacksmith, farmer, miller, and staunch "Whig, who used his
forge for most rebellious purposes. He assisted in making a great chain
(of which I shall hereafter write), that was stretched across the Hudson
in the Highlands at Fort Montgomery, to prevent the British ships of war

MILTON FF.nnV AND 1I0R8K-IS0AT.

ascending the river and carrying invading troops into' the heart of the
"ountry. For this offence, when the chain and accompanying boom were
forced, and the vessels of Vaughan carried the firebrand to Esopus or
Kingston, the rebel blacksmith's mill was laid in ashes, and he was
confined in the loathsome Jersey prison-ship at New York, where he had
ample time for reflection and penitence for three weary years. Alas ! the
latter never came. He was a sinner against ministers, too hardened for
repentance, and he remained a rebel until the close of his life. Another
mill soon arose from the ashes of the old one, and there his grandsons, the

THE HUDSON.

193

[«

Messrs. Gill were giinding wheat when Te were there for the descendants
of both Whigs and Tories, and never inquired into the politics of the
passengers upon their boat at the Milton Ferry. That boat was keeping
alive the memory of times before steam was used for navigation. It was
one of only two vessels of the kind upon the Hudson in 1860, that were
propelled by horse-power. The other was at Coxsakie. The Milton
fevry-boat has since been withdrawn.

Opposite Spring Brook is the villtigc of Milton, remarkable, like its

NEW HAMDl'KG Tl'NNKL.

sister, Marlborough, a few miles below, for the picturesque beauty of the
surrounding country and the abundance of Antwerp raspberries produced
in its vicinity every year. There and at some places on the eastern shoi-o,
are the chief sources of the supply of that delicious fruit for the city of
New York ; and the quantity raised is so great, that a small steamboat is
employed for the sole purpose of carrying raspberries daily to the city.
These villages are upon high banks, and are scarcely visible from the
river. They have a background of rich fanning lands, terminating

c c

194

THE HUDSON.

beyond a sweet valley by a range of lofty hills that are covered with the
primeval forest. They are the resort of New Yorkers during the heat of
summer.

Eight miles below Pouj^hkeepsie is the little village of New Hamburg,
situated at the foot of a rocky promontory thickly covered with the Arbor
Vita), or white cedar, and near the mouth of the Wappingi's Creek.
Through this bluff the Hudson River Railway passes in a tunnol 800 feet
in length, and then crosses the mouth of the "Wappingi, upon a causeway

THE ARIIOB VIT^.

and drawbridge. All over this rocky bluff, including the roof of the
tunnel, the Arbor Vita) shrubs stand thickly; and present, according to
Loudon, the eminent English writer on horticulture and kindred subjects,
some of the finest specimens of that tree to be found in the world. Here
they may be seen of all sizes and most perfect forms, from the tiny shrub
to the tall tree that shows its stem for several feet from the ground. The
most beautiful are those of six to ten feet in height, ^vhose branches shoot
out close to the ground, fonning perfect cones, and exhibiting nothing to
the eye but delicate sprays and bright green leaves. "When quite small
these shrubs may be successfully transplanted ; but under cultivation they

THE HUDSON.

195

sometimes loso their perfect form, and become iiTcgular, like the common
cedar tree. They are beginning to be extensively used for hedges, and
the ornamentation of pleasure grounds.*

A pleasant glimpse of Marlborough, through a broad ravine, may be
obtained from the rough eminence abov(J the New Hamburg tunnel, and
also from the lirac-kilns at the foot of the bluff, ou the edge of the river,
Avhere a ferry connects the two villages. But one of the most interesting
views on the Hudson, in this vicinity, is from the gravelly promontory

MAUUiUUUUUlI, KUOM XU£ LDLK.KILNS.

near the town, at the mouth of the "Wappingi's Creek — a largo stream that
comes down from the hills in the north-eastern part of Duchess County,
dispensing fertility and extensive water-power along its whole course. It
is navigable for a mile and a half from its mouth, when it falls seventy-
five feet, and furnishes power used by quite a large manufacturing village.
It is usually incorrectly spelled AVaj^pingers. Its name is derived from

• The Arbor Vittc is (he IKiii/u OCcideiitnlis of Liuiuciw. It is not the genuine wliite cedar, uUhougU
it froiinentlybciiin that nimie. In Xew Enghnid it ia often called Huckmiitack. Its loaves lie in ttattencd
mosses along the stems, and each is filled with a vesicle containing a thin nroraatiu turpentine. It bears
yellowish brown cones, about five lines in length.

196

THE HUDSON.

the "Wappingi tribe of Indians, who, with the Matttiawans, inhabited this
beautiful region on the Hudson, just north of the Highlands. It should
bo written Wappingi's Creek.

From that gravelly height the Highlands, the village of Newburgh, and
u large portion of the lower part of the " Long Keach" from Newburgh
to Crom Elbow, are seen ; with the flat rock in the river, at the head of
Newburgh Bay and near its western shore, known as Ben DuyveVa Bans
Katncr, or the Devil's Dance Chamber. This rock has a level surface of
about half an acre (now covered with beautiful Arbor Vita) shrubs), and is

MOUTH or MAVPIKGI'S CKEEK.

separated from the main-land by a marsh. On this rock the Indians
performed their peculiar semi-religious rites, called puw-tcows, before going
.ipon hunting and fishing expeditions, or the war-path. They painted
themselves grotesquely, built a large fire upon this rock, and danced
around it with songs and yells, making strange contortions of face and
limbs, under the direction of their conjurors or "medicine men." They
would tumble, leap, rur, and yell, when, as they said, the Devil, or Evil
Spirit, would appear iu the shape of a beast of prey, or a harmless animal;
the former apparition betokened evil to their proposed undertaking, and

THE HUDSON.

197

the latter prophesied of good. For at least a century after the Europeans
discovered the river, these hideous rites were perfoiined upon this spot,
and the Dutch skippers who navigated the Hudson, called the rock Den
Duyvel's Dans Kamer. Here it was that Peter Stuyvesant's crew were
"most horribly frightened by roystering devils," according to the veracious
Knickerbocker.

Sixteen miles below Poughkeepsie, on the same side of the Hudson, is
the small village of ^'shkill Landing, having for a background, in a view
of it from the river, the lofty range of the Fishkill Mountains, which form
a portion of the Highlands proper, through which the Hudson flows a few
miles below. Here is the Fishkill and Newburgh railway-station, and a
long wharf that stretches over the shallow bed of the river to the deep
channel far in the direction of Newburgh. That large town lies upon the
steep slope on the western shore, and presents a beautiful appearance to
the traveller by railway or steamboat, especially when it is lighted up by
the morning sun. Around that old town, the site of the oldest permanent
settlement in Orange County, are clustered many associations of the war
for independence ; for near there the Continental Army was encamped ;
there it was disbanded ; and in a house yet standing, and well preserved,
Washington had his hcad-quai'ters for a long time, as we shall observe
presently.

The first European settlement at Newburgh was commenced in 1709,
by some Palatines, who went up from New York for the purpose, seated
themselves a little above Uuassaic (sometimes called Chambers') Creek,
where the Quassaic Indians resided, and laid the foundations of " New-
borough." They obtained a patent from Queen Anne in 1719, but
becoming dissatisfied, they Avent some to Pennsylvania, and some to the
Mohawk Valley. English, Irish, New England, and Huguenot settlers
supplied their places. New Windsor (two miles below), and other places,
were settled, and v. flourishing little commonwealth was commenced.
New Windsor, upon the shores of a sheltered bay near the mouth of the
Quassaic, was, for some time, the rival of Newburgh. They were
included in the "Highland Precinct" until 1763, when they were
divided into separate municipalities, and so remained until organised into
towns in 1788.

CHAPTEll XI.

HE house at Newburgh, Avliich was occupied by
"Washington, was built by Jonathan Hasbrouck,
^)%'^^£^M^y in 1 750, and is known by the respective names of
immMl..^^; "Hasbrouck House" and "Washington Head-
quarters " It has been the property of the State for
several years, and a sufficient annual appropriation
from the State treasury is made, to keep it, with the
grounds around, in good order. "VVithin it are
collected many relics of the revolution, the war of 1812-15, and the war
with Mexico.

In connection with this house, as the head-quarters of the army,
occuiTed one of the most interesting events in the life of "Washington, to
which allusion has already been made. It was in the spring of 1783.
Peace had been declared, a prcliminaiy treaty had been signed by Great
Britain and the United States, and the Continental Army was soon to be
disbanded. The civil confederacy was weak. For a long time the
Congress had been unable to pay the army, and officers and soldiers were
likely to be sent home pcnmless> large pecuniary creditors of the country
whose independence they had achieved. Secret consultations were held
among a few of the officers. They had lost fiiith in the Congress, and
began to doubt the feasibility of republican government, and some of
them indirectly offered the power and title of King to Washington. He
spurned the proposition with indignation. Then an appeal to the officers
of the army was written, and secretly disseminated, in which grievances
were set forth, and they were advised to take matters into their own
hands, and, in effect, form a military despotism if the Congress should
not speedily provide for their pay. Washington was informed of the
movement. He resolved to control, without seeming to oppose it. He
(.ailed a meeting of the-offlccrs, and the suspected ringleader of the move-
ment was asked to preside. When all were assembled, Washington

stepped forward and read to them a powerful appeal to their patriotism.
His first words, before unfolding the paper, touched every heart. " You
sec, gentlemen," ho said, as he placed his spectacles hoforc his eyes,
"that I have grown not only grey, but Hind, in your service," His
address, as usual, was short, pointed, convincing, and most persuasive.
All eyes were filled with tears. The spirit of mutiny and revolt shrank
abashed, and the assembly resolved unanimously, '* That the officers of
the American army view with abhorrence, and reject with disdain, the
infomous propositions contained in a late anonymous address to the officers

WASIIISGTOK'S IIEAD-QUAKTEIiS AT NEMBUROH.

of the army," This scene did not occur at head-quarters, but in a lar;i;e
temporary building a few miles in the interior, near whei-e the array lay
at that time.

In the centre of the Hasbrouck House, or Head-quarters, is a large
hall, having on one side an enormous fire-place, and containing seven
doors, but only one window. Here Washington received his friends ; here
large companies dined ; and here, from time to time, some "Df the most
distinguished characters of the revolution, civ-il and military, were
assembled. Colonel Nicholas Fish, of the Continental Array, used to

200

•THE HUDSON.

relate an interesting fact connected ■with this room. Ho was in Pans a
short time before the death of the Marquis do Lafayette, who had lodged
many nights beneath the roof of the " Hasbrouck House." Colonel Fisli
was invited, with the American minister, on one occasion, to sup at the
house of the distinguished Marbois, who was the French Secretary of
Legation in the United States during the revolution. Lafayette was one
of the guests. At the supper hour the company was shown into a room
which contrasted quite oddly with the Parisian elegance of the other
apartments, where they had spent the evening. A low, boarded, painted

INTERIOR OF WAPUINOTOS'S HEAD-QUARTERP.

ceiling, with largo Veam?, a single smaU, uncui-tained window, with
numerous small doors, as well as the general style of the whole, gave, at
first, the idea of the kitchen, or largest room, of a Dutch oi Belgian farm-
house. On a long rough table was a repast, just as little in keeping with
the refined cuisines of Paris, as the room was with its architecture. It
consisted of a large dis'i of meat, uncouth-looking pastry, and wine in
decanters and bottles, accompanied by glasses and silver mugs, such as
indicated other habits and tastes than those of modern Paris. " Do you
know where we now are ? " said Marbois to Lafayette and his American

THE HUDSON.

201

companions. They pauseil in surprise for a few minutes. They had t,een
something like it before, but when ? and where ? " Ah ! the seven doors
and one window," exclaimed Lafayette, "and the silver camp-goblets,
such as the IVIarshals of France used in my youth ! We are at Washington's
Head-quarters, on the Hudson, fifty years ago ! "

TJpon the lawn, a little eastward of the Head-quarters, is a tall flag-
staff, and near it a chaste monument, in the form of a mausoleum, made
of brown sandstone, and erected early in the summer of 1860, cor the
grave of the latest survivor of Washington's life-guard. The monument

I.IFK-U lAHU MO.N I'MENT

was dedicated on the 1 8th of June, with appropriate services in connection
with a large civic and military parade. It is about si.K feet in height,
and is surmounted by a large recumbent wreath. On the river-front are
the words : — " Tni: last ok tiik Life GtJAKns. TJzal Knapp, uorx, 1759;
DiKD, 185G. ^[oxMOUTTT, Valley FonoE, YoRKTOWN." On the opposite
side: — "Erected by the Newbueoh Guards, Company F., 19th Regiment,
N. Y. S. M., JxrsE, 1 860." It is surrounded by a chain supported by granite
posts, and is flanked by two pieces of heavy cannon. The monument was
designed by H. K. Brown, the sculptor.

n D

202 .

THE HUDSON.

Mr. Knnpp, the recipient of these honours, was, for a long time, the
only 'surviving [member of the body-guard of AVashington, which was
organised at Boston in the spring of i776, and continued throughout the
war. They were selected from all the regiments of the Continental Array,
and chosen for their peculiar fitness of person and moral character. Mr.
Knapp was a sergeant of the Guard, and was presented by "Washington
with a badge of TVIrlitary Merit — the American Ijegion of Honour. In the
autumn of 1855, the writer was at a public dinner where the old guardsman
was a guest. He was then almost ninety-six years of age. When he was

NEwuunau bay.

about to leave the table, the company arose. The veteran addressed a few
words to them, and concluded by inviting them all to his funeral ! Just
four months afterwards he died, and many who were at the feast were at
the burial. By permission of his family, the citizens of Newburgh, after
his body had lain in state for three days, buried him at the foot of the
flag-staflf, near the old laead-quarters of his chief, where he had watched
and sported thrce-quartcis of a century before. It was over that grave
the monument we have delineated was recently erected.

The natural scenery ai'ound Newburgh has an aspect of mingled

THE HUDSON.

203

grandeur and beauty, peculiar and unrivalled. Before the town is the
lofty range of the Fishkill Mountains, on which signal fires were lighted
during the revolution ; and the gi'oup of the Highlands, through which
the Hudson flows. These are reflected in a broad and beautiful bay, at
all times animated with a variety of water-craft and wild-fowl. Even in
winter, when the frost has bridged the entire river, Newburgh Bay
presents a lively scene almost every day, for ice-boats and skaters are
there in great abundance. Its broad surface is broken by only a solitary
rock island. One of the finest and most comprehensive views of Newburgh

rWlIKlLL LAXDIKO AND KKWBlllOH.

Buy may bo obtained from the hill, just below the Fishkill and Newburgh
railway-station, looking south-west. This view is given in our sketch.
It includes the lower part of Newburgh, the mouth of the Quassaic Creek,
the villages of New AVindsor, and Cornwall, the beautiful low peninsula
culled Denning' s roint on the left, and the higher one of Plum Point, on
the western shore, seen in the centre. Just beyond the latter is the
mouth of the Moodna, a fine clear stream that comes down from the hill-
country of Orange County. The view is bounded on the left by the lofty

204

THE HUDSON.

hills extdiding -westward from tlic Storm King, at whose base the Hudson
enters the Highlands.

At Nowhuvgh is the eastern terminus of a branch of the New York and
Lrie Railway, which passes through some of the most picturesque sonery
in the world, between the Hudson and Delaware rivers. In the vicinity
of the village are charming drives, but no one is more attractive towards
evening, than that along the river-bank, through New "Windsor io

IDLSWILD i'UOM TUli IIUOOK.

Idlewild, the residence of the well-known author, N. P. Willis, Esq. I
travelled that road on a hot afternoon in August. The shadows were
short ; a soft breeze came up the rive r from the open northern door of the
Highlands, whose rugged forms were bathed in golden light. On the
land not a leaf was stirred by a zephyr. I crossed the Moodna, in
whose shallow waters the cattle were seeking cool retreats, and I was
glad to take shelter from the hot sun in the shadows of the old trees on

\ «

THE HUDSON.

205

the margin of tLc brook thr.i; rushes from the Glen at Idlewild. There all
was cool, quiet, and delightful. The merry laugh of children came
ringing like the tones of silver bells through the open grove. I sat down

IN TUK GI.EX AT IDLKWILS.

upon the bank of the brook, to enjoy the sweet repose of the scene, when,
locking up, the cottage of Idlewild, half concealed by evergreens, stood in
full view on the brow of the glen, two hundred feet above mt. The whole

206

THE HUDfc'ON.

acclivity is covered with the primeval wood, which presents an apparently
impenetrable barrier to approach from below.

After sketching the attractive scene, I went leisurely up the deep, cool,
dark glen, to its narrowest point", where the brook occupies the whole
bottom of the gorge, and flows in picturesque rapids and cascades over
and. among rugged rocks and overhanging trees and shrubbery, with a
rustic foot-bridge, the solitary testimony that man had c.er penetrated
that wild retreat.

A winding pathway lead from the slender bridge in the glen up to the
cottage of Idlewild, which is at the north-eastern angle of the Highland
Terrace, on which the village of Cornwall stands. The views from it are
exceedingly beautiful. FroiU the southern porch a lawn rises gently,
beyond which nothing can be seen but the purple sides and summit of the
Storm King, rising nearly 1,600 feet above the river. A little way fiom
the cottage, a full view of Newburgh Bay and the river and country
above may be obtained ; and on the left, the placid estuary into which the
Moodna* flows, reflects all the glories of sunset.

The Highland Tei-race owes its name and fame to Mr. Willis, whose pen
has been as potent as the wand of a magician in peopling that delightful
spot with summer residents from New York. Ho has thoroughly
" written it up.' ' It is a fertile strip of land, quite elevated, lying at the
foot of the north-western slopes of the mountains. The grape is culti-
vated there with success ; and as its banks yield some of the finest brick-
clay in the country, it has become a celebrated brick-making place.
Cornwall Landing is at the base of the Ten'ace near the foot of the Storm
King, and is reached from the plateau by a steep, winding road. During
the summer months it exhibits gay scenes at the hours when the steam-
boats arrive. Many of the temporary residents of that vicinity have their
own carriages, and Liiese, filled with pleasure-seeking people, expecting

* tills was collijil Murderer's Creek, because, In early times, a family of white people, who lived
Upon its banks, wns murdered by the Indians, Mr. Willis, with a latidulilo desire to get rid of a name
so unpleasant, soii/^ht reasons for csfHblif'iiiig iho belief that it is u corruption of the sweet Indian word
Moodna. He hat. been sucjessful, and the Niroam is now generally called Moodna's Creek. .Such is
also the name of .he post-offlce there, established by tho government. It is to bo hoped that the old
name will be speedily lorgottcn.

THE HUDSON.

207

to meet friends, or only hoping to see new faces, quite cover the wharf at
times, especially at evening.

From the Cornwall Landing an interesting view of the upper entrance
to the Highlands, between the Storm King and Breakneck Hill, may bo
obtained. In our sketch, the former is seen on the right, the latter on
the left. The river is here deep and narrow. The rocky shores, composed
principally of granite and gneiss, embedding loose nodules and fixed veins

rPPEB ENTRANCE TO TUE lIIGIlLANDg.

of magnetic iron ore, rise from 1,000 to almost 1,600 feet above the river,
and arc scantily clothed with stunted trees. The range extends in u
nvHh-eastern and south-western direction across the Hudson, in tlic
counties of Duchess and Putnam, Orange and Eockland, and connects
with the Alleghanics. Geologists say that it is unequivocally a primitive
chain, and in the early ages of the world must have opposed a barrier to
the passage of the waters, and caused u vast lake which covered the

208

THE HUDSON.

present Valley of the Hudson, extending to, if not over, Lalcc Champlain,
eastward to the Taglilcanick !Btronntain, in Colnmbia County, and the
Highlands along the western borders of iJrassachnsctts, and \restward to
the Kayaderosseras Monntain, near Lake George, alluded to in ouv
description of the Upper Hudson. Such, they say, must have been in
former ages the "Ancient I ike of the Upper Valley of the Hudson,"
indicated by the levels and surveys of the present d.ay, and by an
examination of the geological structure and alluvial formations of this
valley. The Indians called the range eastward of the Hudson, including
the rishkill Mountains, Matteaican, or the Country of Good Fur. They
gave the same name to the stream that flows into the Hudson, on the
south side of Donning's Point, which the Dutch called Vis Kill, or Fish
Creek, and now known as the Fish Kill.

Toward the evening of the same hot day in August (1860), when I
rode from Newburgh to Idlewild and the Highland Terrace, I went in a
skiff around to the shaded nooks of the western shore below the Storm
King, and viewed the mountains in all their grandeur from their bases.
The Storm King, seen from the middle of the river abreast its eastern
centre, is almost semicircular in form, and gave to the minds of the
utilitarian Dutch skippers who navigated the Hudson early, the idea of a
huge lump of butter, and they named it lioter Berg, or Butter Hill. It
had borne that name until recently, when Mr. "^Villis successfully appealed
to the good taste of the public by giving it the more appropriate and
poetic title of Storm King. The appeal was met with a sensible response,
and the directors of the Hudson River llailway Company recognised its
fitness by naming a station at Breakneck Hill (when will a better name
for this be given?), opposite the Boter Berg, "Storm King Station." The
features of the mountain have been somewhat changed. For many years
past vast masses of stone have been quarried from its south-eastern face ;
until now the scene from its foot has the appearance given in the sketch.

Serrated Breakneck opposite has also been much (juarricd, and through
its narrow base, upon the brink of the river, a tunnel for the railway has
been pierced. Several years ago a powder blast, made by the quarriers
high up on the southern declivity of the mountain, destroyed an object
interesting to voyagers upon the river. From abreast the Storm King u

THE HUDSON.

209

huge mass of rock was seen projected against the eastern sky in the
perfect form of a human face, the branches of a tree fonning an excellent
representation of thick curly beard upon the chin. It was called the

AT JlIE l-OOT OF THE STOBM KI.NO.

Turk's Head. By many it was mistaken for "Anthony's Nose," the
huge promontory so called at the southern entrance to the Highlands a
few miles bolow. Its demolition caused many expressions of regret, for

■R K

210

THE HUDSON.

it was regarded as a great curiosity, and an interesting feature in the
Highland scenery on the river.

Just below the Storm King, at the foot of a magnificent valley composed
of wooded slopes that come down from the high hills two or three miles
westward, is the cottage of Mr. Lambertson, a resident of New York,
who has chosen that isolated spot for a summer retreat. He has only one
neighbour, who lives in another cottage beneath willow trees at the base
of the Cro' Nest. This group of hills forms the southern boundary of
their wild domain, and the Storm King the northern. In the slopes of

THE "I'OWELL" OFi- TUi: SI'ORJI KING VALLEIT.

the gi'and valley betweep these hills wild ravines are furrowed, and form
channels for clear mountain streams, and every rood of that wilderness of
several hundred acres is covered with timber. When in full foliage in
summer it has the appearance, in every light, of green velvet. I have
seen it in the morning and at evening, at meridian and in the light of
the full moon, and on all occasions it had the same soft aspect in contrast
with the rugged forms of Cro' Nest and the Storm King. That valley is
always a delightful object to the eye, and should bo sought for by the
tourist. The last time I passed it was at sunset. I was on the swift

THE HUDSON.

211

steamer Thomas Powell, and at that hour the deep green of the foreground
was fading higher up into a mingled colour of olive and pink, and
softening into delicate purple, while the rocky summit of the Storm King
cast over the whole the reflected effulgence of a brilliant evening sunlight.
In this isolated spot among the mountains, Joseph Rodman Drake, whilst
rambling alone many years ago, wrote con amore his beautiful poem,

^ii^w "^^^iis^mw^

SCKNIS OFF THE BIOKM KIKO VALLEV.

" The Culprit Fay," in which ho thus Eummoned the fairies to a
dance : —

" Ouphe and goblin ! imp and sprite !

Elf of eve and starry fay !
Ye that love the moon's soft light,

Hither, hither, wend your way.
Twine ye in a jocund ring ;

Sing and trii. it merrily ;
Hand to hand, and wing to win^,

Bound tlie wild witch-hazel tree,"

AVhilst at the landing-place at Mr. Lambertson's, one of those black

212

THE HUDSON.

electrical clouds, ■which frequently gather suddenly amon;* the Highlands
during the heats of July and August, came up from the west, obscured the
sun, hovered upon the summit of the Storm King a few minutes, and then
passed eastward, giving out only a few drops of rain where I stood, but
casting down torrents in Newhurgh Bay, accompanied by shafts of forked
lightning and heavy peals of thunder. There was a perfect calm while
the darkness brooded. Not a vessel was in sight, and no living thing
was visible, except the white sea-gulls, which seem to be always on the

lilGHLAJiD EKTBAXCK TO NKWUUBCill BAV.

wing in the van or in the wake of a tempest. The shower passed cast-
ward over the Mattcawan Hills, when suddenly there appeared

" That beautiful one,
Wliose arch is refraction, whose keystone tlie suii,
In the hues of its grandeur, sublimely it stood
O'er the river, the village, the field, and the wood,"

and cast a beautiful radiance over the great hills of the Shattemuc,*

* The Wappengi and Mattcawan tribes called the llucUon S/iuttcmuc, and the UiglUands below the
Matteawan, or Fishkill Mountains, the Hills of the Shattemuc.

THE HUDSON.

213

among which I stood, gazing upon a sublime scene with wonder and
delight.

After the shower had passed by, I rowed to the middle of the river, in
the direction of Cold Spring •village, on the eastern shore, and obtained a
fine view of the Highland entrance to Newburgh Uay. The evening sun
was pouring a flood of light upon the scene. On the left, in shadow,
stood the Storm King, on the right was rugged Breakneck, with its
neighbour, round Little Beacon Hill, and between was Pollopell's Island,
a solitary rocky eminence, rising from the river, a mile north of them.
Beyond these were seen the expanse of Newburgh Bay, the village, the
cultivated country beyond, and the dim pale blue peaks of the Katzbergs,
almost sixty miles distant. This view is always admired by travellers as
one of the most agreeable in the Avhole village from !N^ew York to Albany.

On cool, bright morning in August, I climbed to the bald summit of
the Storm King, accompanied by a few friends. We procured a competent
guide at Cornwall landing, and ascended the nearest and steepest part,
where a path was to be found. It was a rough and difficult one, made
originally by those who gathered hoop-poles upon the mountains. It
was gullied in some places, and filled with stones in others, because it
serves for the bed of a mountain torrent during showers and storms.
Nearly half-way up to the first summit we found a spring of delicious
■w iter, where we rested. Occasionally we obtained glimpses of the
country westward, where the horizon was bounded by the level summits
of the Shawangunk Mountains.

We reached the first summit, after a fatiguing ascent of a mile and a
half. It was not the highest, yet we had a very extensive prospect of
the country around, except on the east, which was hidden by the higher
points of the mountain. At last the greatest altitude was reached, after
making our way another mile over rocky ! 'dges, and through gorges filled
with shrub-oaks, and other bushes. There a glorious picture filled us
with exquisite pleasure. We felt amply rewarded for all our toil. The
sky was cloudless, and the atmosphere perfectly clear. The scenery, in
some features, was similar to, but in all others totally unlike, that of the
Adirondack region. Looking northward, the river was seen in its
slightly winding course to Crom Elbow, twenty-six miles distant, with

214

THE HUDSON.

the intermediato villages along ita banks. On each side of the river, and
sloping back to high ranges of hills (the shores of the ancient lake already
alluded to), was spread out one of the most fertile and wealthy regions on
the continent.

Our view included portions of seven counties in the State of New York,
and of three in Connecticut, with numerous little inland villages. In
the extreme north-west were the Katzbergs, and, in the north-east, the

NOBTHEB; >tEW FBOM THE BIOBU KIKO.

Tagi.kanick range, with the hills of western Massachusetts and Con-
necticut. Almost at our feet lay Cornwall, and a little beyond were Few
Windsor and Canterbury, and the whole country back of Newburgh,
made memorable by events of the war for independence. Before us lay
the old camp-grounds of the Continental Army, the spot where the
patriotism of the officers was tried to the utmost in the spring of 1783, as
already explained ; the quarters occupied by "Washington at New "Windsor

THE HUDSON.

215

and Newburgh ; of Lafayette, at the Square ; of Greene and Knox, at
Morton's; and of Steuben, at Verplanck's. There was Plum Point and
PoUopell's Island, between which a sort of chevaux-de-frise was constructed
in 1 776. PoUopell's Island lay beneath us. The solitary house of a fibucr-
man upon it appeared like a wren's cage in size, and the kingdom of his
insane wife, who imagines herself to be the Queen of England, and her
husband the Prince Consort, seemed not much larger than one of her
spouse's drag-nets. If he is not a Prince Consort, he is the sole ruler of
the little domain which he inhabits, and ho may say, as did Selkirk—

"I am monaivli of all I survey,

Aly right there is none to dispute,
From the centre all round to the sea,
I niii lord of the fowl and the brute."

The passing trains upon the Hudson River Ruil,vay, and large
steamers, and more than forty sail of vessels of all sizes, seen upon tlie
river at the same time, appeared almost like toys for children. Yet small
as they seemed, and diminutive as wc must have appeared from below,
signals with white handkerchiefs, given by some of our party, brought
responses in kind from the windows of the railway cars.

Tho view southward from the summit of the Storm King is not so
extensive as northward and westward, but includes an exceedingly
interesting region. In the distance, on the south-east, beyond the range
of wooded hills that bound the view from less elevated eminences of the
Highlands, tho fine cultivated hill country of Putnam County was seen.
Anthony's IS^osc, Bear Mountain, and the Dunderberg, at their southern
entrance, were too high to permit glimpses of Westchc:>er and Rockland
counties below. These may ho seen from the Great Ucacon Hill of tho
Fishkill range, on the opposite side of tlie river. With a good telescope
the city of New York may also be seen. But within the range of our
unaided vision, lay fields of action, the events of which occupy large
spaces in history. There was Philipsburg, where the Continental Arn^y
was encamped, and almost every soldier was inoculated with tho kine-pox,
to shield him from the ravages of the small-pox. The camp, for a whHc,'
became a vast lazar-house. There was Constitution Island, clustered with
associations connected with the fall of Forts Clinton and Montgomery,

216

THE HUDSON.

and the Great Chain, which wc shall presently consider ; an beyond,
among the shadows of old trees at the foot of the Sugar-Loaf Mountain,
was seen the hous^ occupied as head-quarters by Arnold, from which he
escaped to the Vulture sloop-of-war, when his treason was discovered.
Only a small portion of West Point could be seen, for the Cro' Nest group
loomed up between; but over these, more westward, the landscape
included the entire range of higher hills away toward Chester, the Clove,

SOU'lllEHN VIEW FBOM TllF BTOKM KINO.

and the Ilamapo Pi'ss, with the solid-looking mass of the Shunncmuuk
beyond Canterbury.

It was after meridian when wo had finished our observations from the
lofty head of the Storm King, and sat down to lunch in the broken
shadows of a stunted pine-tree. Wc descended the mountain by the path
that we went up, and at Cornv/all took n skiff and rowca to West Point,
making some sketches and observations by the way. When a little below

THE HUDSON.

217

'rfj?

the Storm King Valley, wc came to the high hluflf known as Kidd's Plug
Cliff, where the rocks rise almost perpendicularly several hundred feet
from debris near the water's edge, which is covered with shrubhery.

KIUU'S I'LIG ( Lll F.

High up on the smooth face of the rock, is a mass slightly projecting,
estimated to ho twelve feet iu diu'^acter, and by form and position
suggesting, even to the dullest imagiuation, the idea of an enormous plug

V V

218

THE HUDSON.

stopping an orifice. The fancy of some one has given it the name of
Captain Kidd's Plug, in deference to the common belief that that noted
pirate buried immense sums of money and other treasures somewhere in
the Highlands. "Within a few years ignorant and credulous persons,
misled by pretended seers in the clairvoyant condition, have dug in search
of those treasures in several places near West Point ; and some, it is said,
have been ignorant and credulous enough to believe that the almost

CliOW'a NEST.

mythical buccaneer had, by some supernatural power, mounted these rocks
to the point where the projection is seen, discovered there an excavation,
deposited vast treasures within it, and secured them by inserting the
enormous stone plug seen from the waters below. It is plainly visible
frori vessels passing near the western slioro.

Kidd's Plug Cliff is a part of the group of hills wh''ch form Cro' Nest
(the abbreviation of Crow's Nest), a name given to a huge hollow among

THE HUDSON.

219

the summits of these hills. They are rocky heights, covered with trees
and shrubbery, and, by their grouping, seen from particular points of view,
suggest the idea of an enormous crow's nest. By some the signal high
summit above the Plug Cliff is called Cro' Nest; and it is in allusion to
that lofty hill that Morris, its "neighbour over t^e way," wrote—

" Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sands
Winds througli the liills afar,
And Cro' Nest like a monarch stands,
Crowned with a single star."

CHAPTER XII,

^j^^S "we passed the foot of Cro' Nest, wo caught pleasant
glimpsrs of West T>oint, where the government of
the United States has a militfay school, and in a
few moments the whole outline of the promontory
and the grand ranges of hills around and heyond it,
was in full view. We landed in a sheltered cove a
little above Camp Town, the station of United
States troops and other residents at the Point, and climbed a very steep
hill to the Cemetery upon its broad and level summit, more than a
hundred feet above the river. It is a shaded, quiet, beautiful retreat,
consecrated to the repose of the dead, and having thoughtful visitors at
all hours on pleasant days.

" There, side by side, the dark gi-eeii cedars chister.
Like Bentries watching by that camp of deatli ;
There, like an army's tents, with snow-whit*) lustre,
The grave-stones gleuin beneath.

"Few are the graves, for here no popiiltus city
Feeds, with its mjTiad lives, tlie hungry Fate ;
Wliile hourly funerals, led by grief or pity.
Crowd through the open gate.

. . • •

" Here sleep brave men, who, in the deadly quarrel.
Fought for their coinitrj', and their life-blood poured j
Above whose du*'* xhe carves the deathless laurel,
Wreathing the victor's sword.

"And here the young cadet, in manly beuuty,

Borne from the tents which skirt thoso rocky banks,
Called from life's daily drill and peril'-'s duty
To these unbroken ranks "

The most conspicuous object in the Cemetery is the Cadet's Monument,
situated at the eastern angle. It is a short column, b{ castle form,
composed of light brown hewn stone, surmounted by military emblems

♦*

THE HUDSON.

991

and a foliated memorial urn, wrought from the same material. It was
erected in the autumn of 1818, to the memory of Vincent M. Lowe, of
New York, by his brother cadets. Ho was accidentally killed by the
discharge of a cannon, on the 1st of January, 1817. The names of several
other officers and cadets are irscribed upon the monument, it having been
adopted by the members of the institution as " sacred to the memory of
the deceased " whose names are there recorded.

I i:.

CADET'S MONUMENT.

From the brow of the hill, near the Cadet's Monument, is a compre-
hensive view of the picturesque village of Cold Spring, on the east side of
the river, occupying a spacious alluvial slope, bounded by rugged heights
on the north, and connected, behind a range of quite lofty mountains, with
the fertile valleys of Duchess and Putnam Counties. Wo shall visit it

222

THE HUDSON.

presently. Meanwhile let us turn our eyes southward, and from another
point on the margin of the Cemetery, where a lovely shaded walk invites
tlic strollers on warm afternoons, survey Camp Town at our feet, with
West Point and the adjacent hills. In tl.'S view we see the Old Landing-
place, the road up to the plateau, the Laboratory building?, the Siege
Battery, the Hotel, near the remains of old Fort Clinton, upon (he highest
ground on the plain, the blue dome of the Chapel, the turrets, of the great

COLU BFBINO, FBOM THE CKMETEBV.

Mess Hall, on the v ctreme right, the Cove, crossed by the Hudson River
Railway, and the range of hills on tho eastern side of the river.

Following this walk to the entrance gate, we traverse a delightful
■winding road along the river-bank, picturesque at every turn, to the
parting of the ways. One of these leads to the Point, the other up Mount
Independence, on whose summit repose the grey old ruins of Fort Putnam.
Wo had ascended that "winding mountain road many times before, and
listened to tho echoes of the sweet bugle, or the deeper voices of the
morning and evening gun at the Point. Now we were invited by a
shady path, and a desire for novelty, from the road between Forts "Webb
and Putnam, into the deep rocky gorge between Mount Independence and

THE HUDSON.

223

the more lofty Redoubt Hill, to the rear of the old fortress, where it wears
the appearance of a ruined castle upon a mountain crag. The afternoon
sun was falling full upon the mouldering ruin, a^d the chaotic mass of rocks
beneath it; while the clear blue sky and white clouds presented the
whole group, with accompanying evergreens, in the boldest relief.
Making our way back, by another but more difficult path, along the foot
of the steep acclivity, we soon stood upon the broken walls of Fort
Putnam, 500 feet above the river, with a scene before us of unsui'passed
interest and ber uty, viewed in the soft light of the evening sun. At our

WEST POINT, IBOM THE CEMETEHV.

feet lay the promontory of West Point, with its Military Academy, the
quarters of the officers and the cadets, and other buildings of the
institution. To the left lay Constitution Island, from a point of which,
where a ruined wall now stands, to the opposite shore of the main, a
massive iron chain was laid upon floating timbers by the Americans, at
the middle of the old war for independence. Pcyond the island arose the
smoke of the furnaces and forges, the spires, and the roofs of Cold Spring.
Toward the left loomed up the lofty Mount Taurus, vulgarly called Bull
Hill, at whoso base, in the shadow of a towering wall of rock, and in the

224

THE HUDSON.

midst of grand old trees, nestles Tinder CliflF, then the homo of Monis,
whose songs have delighted thousandb in hoth hemispheres. On. the
extreme loft arose old Qo' Nest; and over its right shoulder lay the
rugged range of Break Neck, dipping to the river sufficiently to reveal the
beautiful country beyond, on the borders of Newburgh Bay. This is one
of the most attractive points of view on the Hudson.

FORT I'l'i'NAM, FROM aifE WKSC.

Fort Putnam was erected by the Americans in 1778, for the purpose of
defending Fort Cliuton, on West Point below, and to more thoroughly
secure the river against the passage of liostib^ fleets. It was built under
the direction of Colonel llufus Putnam, and chiefly by the men of his
Massachusett's regiment. It commanded tlic river above and below the
Point, and was almost impregnable, owing to its position. In front, the

mountain is quite steep for many yards, and then slopes gently to the
plain ; while on its western side, a perpendicular wall of rock, fifty feet
in height, would have been presented to the enemy. Redoubts were also
built upon other eminences in the Ticinity. These being chiefly earth
works, have been almost obliterated by the action of storms ; and Fort
Putnam was speedily disappearing under the hands of industrious
neighbours, who were cari-ying off the stone for building purposes, when

VIEW FBOil lOBT PUTNAM.

the work of demolition was arrested by the Government. Its remains,
consisting of only broken walls and two or three arched casemates, all
overgrown with vines and shrubbery, are now carefully preserved. Even
the cool spring that bubbles from the rocks in its centre, is kept clear of
choking leaves ; and we may reasonably hope that the ruins of Fort
Putnam will remain, an object of interest to the passing traveller, for more
than a century to come.

226 •

THE HUDSON.

The •winding road from the fort to the plain is quite steep much of the
way, hut is so well wrought that carriages may safely traverse it ; and the
tourist is led hy it to one of the loveliest of river and mountain views
northward from the Point, in front of the residences of Mr, "Weir, the
eminent artist, and other professors employed in the Military Academy.
Passing along the shaded walk in front of theso mansions, on the margin
of a high bank, a white marhle obelisk is seen upon a grassy knoU on the
left, shooting up from a cluster of dark evergreen trees. It was erected
by Major-Gencral Jacob Brown, of the United States army, in memory of

lilEUTENANI-COLONEI, WOOD'S MONUMENT.

his youthful and Avell beloved companion-in-arms^ Lieutenant-Colonel E.
D. Wood, of the corps of Engineers, who fell while heading a charge, at
the sortie of Port Erie, in Upper Canada, on the 17th of September, 1814.
He had been a pupil of the Military Academy vt "West Point. "He
was," says one of the inscriptions, "exemplary as a Christian, and
distinguished as a soldier."

Passing a little farther on, a gravelled walk diverges riverward, and
leads down to the Siege Battery of six guns, erected by the cadets while
in the performance of their practical exercises in engineering. The

THE HUDSON.

cannon were housed, and no gunners were near, yet the works appeared
formidable. They were composed of gabions, covered with turf, soft and
even as fine velvet. The battery commands one of the most pleasing views
from the Point, comprising Constitution Island, Mount Taurus, and Break
Neck on the right ; Cro' Nest and the Storm King on the left ; and ten
miles of the river, with PoUopell's Island and the shores above Newburgh
in the centre. A similar view is obtained from the piazza of Koe's Hotel,
on the brow of the hill just above.
A little westward of the Siege Battery are the buildings of the

VIEW KBOM THE SIEGE BATTKRV.

Laboratory of the institution, in wliich are deposited some interesting
relics of the old war for independence. One of the most attractive groups
among these relics was composed of se-s'eral links of the great iron chain,
already mentioned, that spanned the river, enclosing a large brass mortar,
taken from the British at Stoney Point, by Wayne, and two smaller ones,
that were among the spoils of victory at Saratoga. There were a dozen
links of the chain, and two huge clevises. The links were made of iron
bars, 2J inches square. Their average length was a little over 2 feet,
and their weight about 140 pounds each. The chain was stretched across

228

THE HUDSON.

the river at the narrowest place, just above Gee's Point (the extreme
rocky end of "West Point) and Constitution Island. It was laid across a
boom of heavy logs, that floated near together. These were 16 feet long,
and pointed at each end, so as to offer little resistance to the tidal currents.
The chain was fastened to these logs by staples, and at each shore by huge
blocks of wood and stone. This chain and boom seemed to afford an
efficient bamcr to the passage of vessels ; but their strength was never
tested, as the keel of an enemy's ship never ploughed the Hudson aftrr

THK CiHKAT CHAIN.

the fleet of Vaughan passed up and down in the autumn of 1777, and
performed its destructive mission.

The views from Roe's Hotel, on the extreme northern verge of the
summit of the plain of West Point, are very pleasing in almost every
direction. The one northward, similar to that from the Siege Batteiy, is
the finest. Westward the eye takes in the Laboratory, Lieutenant-
Colonel Wood's Monument, a part of the shaded walk along the northern
margin of the plain, and Mount Independence, crowned with the ruins of
Fort Putnam. Southward the view comprehends the entire Parade, and
glimpses, through the trees, of the Academy, the Chapel, the Mess Hall,

THE HUDSON.

229

and other buildings of the institution, with some of the officcia' quarters
and professors' residences on the extreme right. The earthworks of Fort
Clinton have recently been restored, in their original form and general
proportions, exactly upon their ancient site, and present, with the
beautiful trees growing within their grtjn banks, a very pleasant object
from every point of view. The old fort was constructed in the spring
of 1778, under the direction of the bravo Polish soldier, Thaddeus
Kosciuszko, who was then a colonel in the Continental Army, and chief

Wi.Sl'KK.V VlbU', FKO.M KOK S IIOIEI..

■■ ■:#

of the Engineers' corps. The fort, when completed, was 600 yards
around, witliin the walls. The embankments were 21 feet at the base,
and 14 feet in height. Barracks and huts sufficient to accommodate six
hundred persons were erected within the fort. It stood upon a cliff, on
the margin of the plain, 180 feet above the river.

Kosciuszko was much beloved by the Revolutionary Army, and his
memory is held in reverence by the American people. He was only
twenty years of age when he joined that army. He had been educated
at the Military School of "Warsaw. He had not completed his studies,

230

THE HUDSON.

when he eloped with a beautiful girl of high rank. Thej were overtaken
by the maiden's father, who made a violent attempt to seize his daughter.
The young Pole was compelled either to slay the father or abandon
the daughter. Ho chose the latter, and obtaining the permission of his
sovereign, he went to France, uud there became a student in drawing
and military science. In Paris he Trns introduced to Dr. Franklin, and,
fired with a desire to aid a people fighting for independence, lie sailed for
America, bearing letters from that minister. He applied to Washington

THE PARAUE.

for employmeiii. ''What do you seek here?" asked the leader of the
armies of the revolted colonics. " I come to fight as a volunteer for
American independence," the young Pole replied. " What can you do?"
Washington asked. " Try me," was Kosciuszko's prompt reply. Pleased
with the young man, Washington took him into his military family.
The Congress soon afterwards appointed him engineer, with the rank of
colonel. He returned to Poland at the close of the Re'olution, and was
made a major-general under Poniatowski. He was at the head of the
military movements of the Revolution in Poland, in 1794, and was made

THE HUDSON.

231

a prisoner, and carried to St. Petersburg, This event caused Campbell
to -vmte —

"Hoiw for a season bade the earth farewell,
And freedom sliriekcd when Kosciiiazko fell."

After the Empress Catherine died, the Emperor Paul liberated him,
offered him command in the Eussian service, and presented him with his

K08CIUSZK0'8 MOSUMEST.

own sword. Ho declined it, saying, <' T no longer need a SAvord, since I
have no longer a country to defend." He revisited the United States in
1797, when the Congress granted him land in consideratim of his services.
Ho afterwards lived in Switzerland, and there ho died in 1817. A
public funeral was made for him at Warsaw. Twelve years afterwards,
the cadets of West Point, actuated by love for the man and rovcrenco for

232

THE HUDSON.

his deeds, erected a beautiful marble monument to his memory, within the
ruins of Old Fort Clinton, at a cost of about $5,000. It bears upon one
side the name of — " Kosciuszko," and on another, the simple inscription
— "Erected by ihe Cokps of Cadets, 1828." It is a conspicuous and
pleasing object to voyagers upon the river.

Passing along the verge of the cliff, southward from Kosciuszko's
monument, the visitor soon reaches another memorial stone. It is of
white marble, the chief member being a fluted column, entwined by a
laurel wreath, held in the beak of an engle, perched upon its top. The

DADE a COMMANDS MOSUMEKT.

pedestal is of temple form, square, with a row of encircling stars upon its
entablature, and a cannon, like a supporting column, at each corner. It
was erected to commemorate a battle fought between a detachment of
United States troops, under Major Francis L. Dade, and a party of
Seminole Indians, in the Everglades of Florida, on the 28th of December,
1835. The detachment consisted of one hundred and eight men, all of
whom, save three, were massacred by the savages on that occasion. The
troops nobly defended themselves, and made no attempt to retreat.
Their remains repose near St. Augustine, in Florida. This monument

THE HUDSON.

233

was erected by the three regiments and the medical staff, from which the
detachment was selected.

A. few feet from Dade's Command's Monument, a narrow path, through
a rocky passage, overhung with boughs and shrubbery, leads down to a
pleasant terrace in the steep bank of the river, which is called Kosciuszko's
Garden. At the back of the terrace the rock rises pci-pendicularly, and

kosciuszko's garden.

from its outer edge descends as perpendicularly to the river. This is said
to have been Kosciuszko's favourite place of resort for reading and
meditation, while he was at West Point. He found a living spring
bubbling from the rocks, in the middle of tho terrace, and there ho
constructed a pretty little fountain. Its ruins were discovered in 1802,
and repaired. The water now rises into a marble basin. Seats have

n II

234

THE HUDSON*

been provided for visitors, ornamental shrubs have been planted, and the
whole place wears an aspect of mingled romance and beauty. A deep
circular indentation in the rock back of the fountain was made, tradition
affirms, by a cannon-ball sent from a British ship, while the Polish
soldier was occupying his accustomed loitering place, reading Vauban,
and regaled by the perfume of roses. From this quiet, solitary retreat, a
pathway, appropriately called Flirtation "Walk, leads up to the plain.

A short distance from Kosciuszko's Garden, upon a higher terrace, is
Battery Knox, constructed by the cadets. It commands a fine view of

VIEW FKOM BATTERY KKOX.

the eastern shore of the Hudson, in the Iliglilauds, and down the river
to Anthony's Nose. Near by are seen the Cavalry Stables and the
Cavalry Exercise Hall, belonging to the Military School ; and below
there is seen the modern West Point Landing. A little higher up, on
the plain, are the groups of spacious edifices, used for the purposes of the
institution.

"West Point was indicated by AVashington, as early as 1783, as an
eligible place for a military academy. In his message to the Congress in

THE HUDSON.

235

1793, he recommended the estahlishment of one at "West Point. The
subject f^Efsted until 1802, when Congress made provision by law for such
an institution there. Very little progress was made in the matter until
the year 1812, when, by another act of Congress, a corps of engineers
and professors were organised, and the school was endowed with the most
attractive features of a literaiy institution, mingled with that of a
military character. From that time until the present, the academy has
been increasing in importance, as the nursery of army officers and skilful
practical engineers.

The buildings of the West Point Military Academy consisted, at the
time we arc considering, of cadets' barracks, cadets' guard-house,
academy, mess hall, hospital of cadets, chapel, observatory, and library,
artillery laboratory, hospital for troops, equipments shed, engineer troops'
barracks, post guard-house, dragoons' bari-acks, artillery barracks, cavalry
exercise hall, cavalry stables, powder magazine, the quarters of the
officers and professors of the Academy, workshops, commissary of cadets
and sutlers' store, shops and cottages for the accommodation of non-
commissioned officers and their families, laundresses of the cadets, &c.
The principal edifices are built of granite.

The post is under the general command of a superintendent, who bears
the rank of brevet-colonel. The average number of cadets was about two
liundrcd and fifty. Candidates for admission are selected by the "War
Department at AVashington city, and they are required to report
themselves for examination to the superintendent of the academy between
the first and twentieth day of June. None. are admitted who are less
than sixteen or more than twenty-one years of age, who are less than five
feet in height, or who arc deformed or otherwisa unfit for military duty.
Each cadet, on admission, is obliged to subscribe his name to an agreement
to serve in the army of the United States four years, in addition to his
four years of instruction, unless sooner discharged by competent
authority.

The course of instruction consists of infuntry tactics and military
policy, mathematics, the French language, natural philosophy, drawing,
chemistry, mineralogy, artillery tactics, the science of gunnery and the
duties of a military laboratory, engineering and the science of war.

236

THE HUDSON.

geography, history and ethics, the use of the sword, and cavalry exercise
and tactics. The rules and regulations of the academy are very strict and
salutary, and the instruction in all departments is thorough and complete.
The road from the plain to the landing at "West Point was cut from the
steep rocky bank of the river, at a heavy expense to the government.
The wharf is spacious, and there a sentinel was continually posted, with
a slate and pencil, to record the names of all persons who arrive and
depart. This was for the use of the Superintendent, by which means he

TlIK liKVKULV UUUS£.

is informed daily of the arrival of any persons to whom he might wish to
extend personal or professional courtesies.

A steam ferry-boat connects "West Point with the Garrison Station of
the Hudson Kiver Railway, opposite. Near the latter is the old ferry-
place of the Eevolution, where troops crossed to and from "West Point.
Here Washington crossed on the morning when General Arnold's treason

THE HUDSON.

237

was discovered, and here he held a most anxious consultation with
Colonel Hamilton when that event was suspected.

We crossed the feny to Garrison's, and from the road near the station
obtained a pleasant view of West Point, glimpses of the principal
buildings there, and the range of lofty hills beyond, which form the
group of the Cro' Nest and the Storm King. Following a winding road
up the east bank of the river from this point, we came to a mill, almost
hidden among the trees at the head of a dark ravine, through which flows
a clear mountain stream, caUed Kedron Brcok, wherefore, I could not
learn, for there is no resemblance to Jerusalem or the Valley of Jeho-
shaphat near. It is a portion of the beautiful estate of Ardenia, the
property of Richard Arden, Esq. His son, Lieutenant Thomas Arden, a
graduate of the West Point Military Academy, owns and occupies Beverly,
near by, the former residence of Colonel Beverly Robinson (an eminent
American loyalist during the war for independence), and the head-quarters
of General Benedict Arnold at the time of his treason. It is situated
upon a broad and fertile terrace, at the foot of Sugar- Loaf Mountain, one
of the eastern ranges of the Highlands, which rises eight hundred feet
above the plain.

CHAPTEK XIII.

jilT was mid-autumn when wo visited Beverly House, ard the
Sugar-Loaf Mountain, at the foot of which it stands,
exhibited those gorgeous hues which give such unequalled
splendour to American forests at that season of the year.
The beautiful hues of the foliage of the maple, hickory,
chestnut, birch, sassafras, and several other kinds of
deciduous trees in the Northern and Middle States, seen just
before the falling of the leaf in autumn, are almost unknown
in Europe. A picture by Cropsey, one of the most eminent
of living American landscape painters, in which this pecu-
liarity of foliage was represented, drew from one of the minor English
poets the following sonnet :—

CROPSEY'S "AUTUMN ON THE HUDSON."

[Addbessed to J. T. Field, of Boston.]

Forgot arc Summer and our English air ;

Here is your Ar umn with her wondrous dyes ;

Silent and vast your forests round us rise :

God, glorified in Nature, fronts us tliere,

In His transcendent works as heavenly fair

As when they flist seemed good unto His eyes.

See, what a hrighlness on the canvns lies !

Hues, seen not here, flash on us everywhere ;

Radiance that Nature here fi'om us conceals ;

Glory with which she beautifies decay

In your fai' world, this master's hand reveals,

Wafting our blest sight from dimmed streets away,—

With what rai'e power !— to where our awed soul kneels

To Hun who bade these splendours light the day.

W. C. Bkns^tt.

From the summit is a grand and extensive view of the surrounding
scenery, which Dr. Dwight (afterwards President of Yale College)
described, in 1778, as "majestic, solemn, wild, and melancholy." Dwight
was then chaplain of a Connecticut regiment stationed at "West Point,
and ascended the Sugar Loaf with the soldier-poet, Colonel Humphreys.

Tinder the inspiration of feeling awakened by the grandeur of the sight,
ho conceived and partly composed his prophetic hymn, beginning with
the words —

"Columbia! Columbia! to glorj- arise.
The queen of the world and tho cliild of the skies."

General Arnold was at the mansion of Colonel Eobiuson (Beverly
House) on the morning of the 24th of September, 1780, fully persuaded
that his treasonable plans for surrendering West Point and its dependencies
into the hands of Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander-in-chicf,-
then m possession of New Tork,-for the consideration of a brigadier's
commission in the British army, and £10,000 in gold, were working
prosperously. This subject we shaU consider more in detail hereafter.
We wiU only notice, in this connection, events that occurred at the Beveriv
House.

Major Andrg, Arnold's immediate accomplice in treasonable designs,
had, in a personal interview, arranged the details of the wicked bargain,
and left for New York. Arnold believed he had arrived there in safety,
with all requisite information for Sir Henry; and that before Washington's
return from Connecticut, whither he had gone to hold a conference with
Rochambeau and other French officers, Clinton would have sailed up the
Hudson and taken possession of the Highland fortresses. But Andre did
not reach New York. He was captui-ed on his way, by militia-men, as a
suspicxous-looking traveller. Evidences of his character as a spy were
found upon his person, and he was detained. Washington returned
sooner than Arnold expected him. To the surprise of the traitor,
Hamilton and Lafayette reached the Beverly House early on the momin^
of the 24th, and announced that Washington had turned down to .he
West Point Ferry, and would bo with them soon. At breakfast Arnold
^ceived a letter from an officer below, saying, ''Major Andre, of tho
UnU^hArmy, u a prisoner in my custody :> The traitor had reason to
expect that evidences of his own guilt might arrive at any moment. He
concealed his emotions. With perfect coolness he ordered a horse to be
made ready, alleging that his presence was needed "over the river"
immediately He then left the table, went into the great passage, and
humed up the broad staircase to his wife's chamber. In brief and hurried

240

THE HUDSON.

words he told her that they must instantly part, perhaps for ever, for
his life depended on his reaching the enemy's lines without detection.
Horror-stricken, the poor yoimg creature, but one year a mother, and not
two a wife, swooned and sank senseless upon the floor. Arnold dare not
call for assistance, but kissing, with lips blasted by words of guilt and
treason, his boy, then sleeping in angel innocence and purity, he rushed
from the room, mounted a horse, hastened to the river, flung himself into
his barge, and directing the six oarsmen to row swiftly down the Hudson,
escaped to the ViiKure, a Britisli sloop-of-wav, lying far below.

THE STAIKCASE OF THE BOItlNSOSS HOUSE.

Washington arrived at the Beverly House soon after Arnold left it. As
yet no suspicion of treason had entered his mind. After a hasty
breakfast, he crossed to "West Point, expecting to find Arnold there. " I
have heard nothing from him for two days," said Colonel Lamb, the
commanding officer. Washington's suspicions were awakened. He soon
re-crossed the river, where he was met by Hamilton with papers just
received revealing Arnold's guilt. He called in Knox and Lafayette for
counsel. " Whom can we trust now ? " he inquired with calmness, while

THE HUDSON.

^Al

deep sorrow evidently stirred his bosom. At the same time the condition
of Mrs, Arnold, who was frantic with grief and apprehension, awakened
his liveliest sympathies. " The general went up to sec her," wrote

THE IKDK.N FALLS.

Hamilton in describing the scene. " She upbraided him with being in a
plot to murder her child, for she was quite beside herself. One moment
she raved ; another she molted into tears. Sometimes she pressed her

I T

242

THE HUDSON.

infant to her bosom, and lamented its fate, occasioned by the imprud( nee
of its father, in a manner that would have moved insensibility itse.f."
Washington believed her innocent of all previous knowledge of bor hus-
band's guilt, and did all in his power to soothe her. " She is as good and
innocent as an angel, and as incapable of doing wrong," Arnold wrote to
"Washington, from the Vulture, imploring protection for his wife and
child. Ample protection was afforded, and Mrs. Arnold and her infant

VIEW SOUTH 1-ROM DUI ILH'P.

were conveyed in safety to her friends. She Avas the traitor's second wife,
and the daughter of Mr. Shippen, a loyalist of Philadelphia ; and she was
only eighteen years of age at the time of her marriage to Arnold, while
he was military governor of that city, ii? 1778. The child aLvve-
mentioncd was named James Robertson Arnold. He entered the British
army, and rose to the rank of Colonel of Engineers. He was at one time
the aide-de-camp of her Majesty. In 1841 he was transferred from the

THE HUDSON.

243

Engineers' corps, and in 1846 waa a major-general and a Knight of the
Royal Hanoverian Guelphic Order.

Mr. Arden kindly took us in his carriage from Beverly to Indian Brook,
a clear mountain stream that makes its way in rapids and cascades, through
a wild ravine, from the hills to the river. It falls into the deep marshy
hay between Garrison's and Cold Spring. We stopped on the way to

INDIAN BROOK.

v'iew the river and mountains below West Point, from the residence of
Eugene Dutihl, Esq. His mansion is upon a point of the plain, shaded
by a grove of pines, overlooking a deep dark dell, with a sparkling brook
in its bosom, on one side, and the river and grand mountain scenery on
the other. The view southward from his piazza is one of ^ne most
interesting and beautiful (though not the most extensive) among the

244

THE HUDSON.

Highlands, comprehending the site of Forts Clinton and Montgomery —
the theatre of stimng and most important events in the war for
independence. From thence we passed along the brow of the declivity-
next the river, to the mansion of Ardenia, from which one of the finest
views of West Point may be obtained ; and then rode to Indian Brook,
passing, on the way, the ancient Philipsburg Church — in which the officers
of the Continental Army had worshipped during the Revolution — and the
grounds and mansions of wealthy residents in that vicinity.

"Wo crossed Indian Brook on a rustic bridge, just below the Indian
Falls, whose murmur fell upon the ear before wc came in sight of the
stream. These falls have formed subjects for painting and poetry, and
are the delight of the neighbourhood in summer. In the small space
allotted for each of our illustrations and accompanying descriptions, we
can convey only faint ideas of the wild beauty of the scenes we are called
upon to depict in this mountain legion of the Hudson. "We were on the
Indian Brook on a bright October day, when the foliage was in its
greatest autumnal splendour, and the leaves were falling in gentle showers
among the trees, the rocks, and in the sparkling water, appearing like
fragments of rainbows cast, with lavish hand, into the lap of earth. At
every turn of the brook, from its springs to its ;inion with the Hudson, a
pleasant subject for the painter's pencil is presented. Just below the
bridge, where the highway crosses, is one of the most charming of these
" bits." There, in the narrow raviae, over which the tree tops intertwine,
huge rocks arc piled, Fomo of them covered with feather^ fern, others
with soft green mosses, and others us bare r.nd angular as if just broken
from some huge mass, and cast in there by Titan hands. In midsummer
this stream is still more attractive, for there, as Street liaa sung of the
Willcwemoc, —

"A fresli, damp sweetness ilUs the Bccnc,

From dripping 'eaf ond moistened earth,
Tlie odour of the winter green

Floats on the aira that now liuve birth (
Pliwlies and uir-bells all about
Froelaim the gambols of ilio trout,
And calling biish and answering tree
Echo with woodland melody."

In the neighbourhood of this mountain stream are delightful summer

•

THE HUDSON.

245

residences, fitted for occupation all the year round. Among the most
pleasing of these, in their relation to the surrounding scenery, are those
of Dr. Moore, late President of Columbia College, and Mr. Bo Eham, a
retired merchant. We passed through their grounds on our way to Cold
Spring village, and wished for space, among our sketches of the Highland
scenery, for pen and pencil pictures of charming spots, upon these and the
neighbouring estates.

Om road to Cold Spring lay through the region occupied by irti";-. . of

S^^SkI^^^^Pvv^' •*''''^- ^ ' ' '

VIICW 1 ROM UOSSITFH.S MANSItP'.

the American army at different times during the old war for independence.
There, in the spring' of 1781, the troops and others stationed there were
inoculated with the small-pox. "All the soldiers, with the women and
children," wrote Dr. Thachcr, ai. army surgeon, " who have not had the
small-pox, are now under inoculation." "Of five hundred who were
inoculated here," he wrote subsequently, " only four have died." This
was about fifteen years before Jenner mado successful experiments in
vaccination.

This portion of the Highlands is a charming region for the tourist on

246

THE HUDSON.

the Hudson ; and the lover of nature, in her aspects of romantic beauty
and quiet majesty, should never pass it by.

The first glimpse of Cold Spring village from the road is from the
northern slope of an eminence thickly sprinkled with boulders, which
commands a perfect view of the whole amphitheatre of hills, and the river
winding among them. We turned into a rude gate on the left, and
followed a newly-beaten track to the brow of this eminence, on the
southern verge of which Eossiter, the eminent painter (a copy of whoso
picture of * "Washington at Mount Vernon ' was presented to the Prince of
Wales at the National Capitol in 1860), is erecting an elegant villa. The
house was nearly completed, but the grounds around were in a state of
transition from the ruggedness of the wilderness to the mingled aspects of
All; and Nature, fonned by the direction of good taste. It is a delightful
place for an artist to reside, commanding one of the most extensive and
picturesque views to be found in all that Highland region. The river is
seen broken into lakes, in appearance ; and on all sides rise in majesty
the everlasting hills. Only at one point — a magnificent vista between
Mount Taurus and the Storm King — can the world without be seen.
Through it a glimpse may be had of the beautiful country around
Newburgh.

Below us we could hear the deep breathing of furnaces, and the sullen,
monotonous pulsations of trip-hammers, busily at work at the West Point
Foundry, the most extensive and complete of the iron- works of the United
States. Following a steep, stony raviue that forms the bed of a water-
course during rain-storms, we descended to these works, which lie at the
head of a marshy cove, and at the mouth of a deep gorge, through whicli
flows a clear mountain stream called Foundry Creek. We crossed the
marsh upon a causeway, and from a rocky point of Constitution Island
obtained a good panoramic view of the establishment. Returning to the
foundry, we followed a pleasant pathway near the bay, into a large grove
spared from the original forest, in which are situated the dwellings of a
former and the present proprietors of the works.* One of these, the

* The West Point Foundry was estublislied in 1817, by an nsnociation organized jr the cliicf imrposo
of niannfuctnrinjT ho«vy iron ordnnnce, uiulcr a contrnot with tin* ^rovcniment. Tliiit yet formed a largo
portion of its bufiness in 1800. Tlio works llien I'onsisted of ii nioulding liouse; i giin foundry; three

THE HUDSON.

247

honourable Gouvemeur Kemble, an intimate and life-long friend of Irving
and Paulding, and a former proprietor, withdrew from active participation
in the business of the establishment several years ago, and is now
enjoying life there in elegant retirement, and dispensing a generous
hospitality. He has a gallery of rare and excellent pictures, and a choice
libl-ary; and is surrounded by evidences of refined taste and thorough
cultivation.

Leaving the residence of Mr. Kemble at twilight, we made our way

WtST I'Ol.M' iULMJlU.

through tlie grove, and the village of Cold Spring beyond, to "Undercliff,"
the summer dwelling of America's best lyric poet, George P. Morris, who

■^ it

cupoliis null tlirco uir f iirmu^eii ; two boiiiifi luilU ; three blueksniitha' simps ; ii tiip-huinmer wein'iing
eight tons for heavy wroujiht iron-work ; ii turning shop ; a boiler shop ; anil several other builUings iiacd
for various purposes. The iiuiuitity of iron then used varied with the nature and demand of work. Upwards
of fifty tons of pig metal had been melted for u single easting. The annual consumption varied from
6,00u to 10,000 tons, with about 1,000 tons of boiler-plate and wrought-iron. The innnber of hands then
em))loyed was about 500. Sometimes 700 men were at work there. The eslablisthmeut is eonducted by
Robert P. I'arrott, Esq., formerly a captain of Ordnance in tlie United .States Army, and the inventor of
the celebv.ited " Parrott gini," so extensively used, ua among the best of the heavy ordnance, during the
late Civil War. These, with appropriate projectiles, were immufuctm-od in grea* ninubers at the West
Point Foundry, during the war, from 1801 to 1865.

248

THE HUDSON.

has since been numbered with the dead. Broad Morris Avenue leads to
a spacious iron gate, Avhich opens into the gi'ounds around " UnderclifF."
From this, through an avenue of stately trees, the house is approached.
It is a substantial edifice of Doric simplicity in style, perfectly embowered
when the trees are in full leaf, yet commanding, throtigh vistas, some
chaiining views of the river and the neighbouring mountains. Northward,
and near it, rises Mount Taurus, with its impending cliff that suggested
the name of the poet's country scat. It is the old "Bull Hill" which,
iu Irving's exquisite story of " Dolph Hcyliger," "bellowed back the

VSDEKCLIFF.

storm " whose thunders had "crashed on the Bonder Berg, and rolled up
the long defile of the Highlands, each headland making a new echo."

A late writer has justly said of " Undercliff " — '* It is a lovely spot —
beautiful in itself, beautiful in its surroundings, and inexpressibly
beautiful in the home afl:octiou3 which hallow it, and the graceful and
genial hospitality which, without pretence or ostentation, receives the
guest, and with heart in the grasp of the hand, and truth in the sparkle
of the eye, makes him feel that he is welcome." Over that liousehold, a

;d
le

I,
d

daughter, the "fair and gentle Ida," celebrated in the following beautiful
poem, presided for several years :—

" Wlicre Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands

Winds througli the hills afar,
Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands,

Crowned with a single star!
And there, amid tlie billowy swells

Of rook-ribbed, cloud-capped earth,
-My fair and gentle Ida dwells,

A nj-mph of mountain birth.

" The snow flake that the cliff receives,
Tlie diamond of the showers,
Spring's tender blossoms, buds, and leaves.

The sisterhood of flowers,
Jlorns early beam, c vo's balmy breeze

Her purity define ;
Vet Ida's dearer far than these
To this fond breast of mine.

" My heart is on the hills. The shatles

Of night are on my brow :
Ye pleasant haunts and quiet glades,

My soul is with you now !
I bless the star-crowned Higlilands, where

My Ida's foolsteiB roam :
Oh for a falcon's wing to bear

Me onwaid to my home ! "

~TX *""">" »"*^-'f»tat lies u huge reeky island, now

called by the Duteh nav.gaters Martelacr's Island, and the reaeh in the
SIl r°""\'""' "" «">™ ^'"g- M-'elaer's Eaek, er Martyr's
.nd t' „„ , ""T was nsed in this eenneetion to signify «fe„*„^

iZdSfh Tr- ■"""""'"'^'5' »"« P--« tU point of the
island into this reach, straggling with tho wind right ahead.

The Amorieans fertMed this island very early in tho old war for inde-
tr rai'dh *'•' "f °"^ '"* ™' °*^ ^-^ Constitution, td
TOT httle arable land, and i, chiefly composed of rugged rocky hciri.t,
ev-y one of which now bears the ruins of tho eld n,ilS,y w^l To ;
ho,, nearest approaching West Point the Great Chain'whieh we have
already eons.dcred, was fastened ; and upon a high bluff'near (doM ea ed

250

THE HUDSON.

in the sketch) are yet seen the remains of a heavy hattery — a part of Fort
Constitution — placed there to protect the river ohstructions.

At the time of my visit, ConsUtution Island belonged to Henry
Warner, Esq., the father of the gifted and popular writers, Susan and
Anna B. Warner.* They resided in a pleasant cottage, near the southern
border of the island. Its kitchen was one of the barracks of Fort Consti-
tution. It fronted upon a beautiful lawn that slopes to the river, and
was sheltered by evergreen and deciduous trees, and beautified by flowers

KLIXS OF DATIEUV OX CO.NSTITUTIOX ISLAND.

and shrubbery. Although within the sound of every paddle upon the
rivei', every beat of the drum or note of the bugle at West Point, every
roll and its echo of trains upon the railway, "Wood Crag," as their
secluded residence was called, was almost as retired from the bustling

* "Miss Susan AVarner," nays Duyckiiick, in the " Cyclopasdia of American Literature," " made a
sudden step into eniinenco as a writer, by tlio publication, in 18-19, of ' Tlie Wide, Wide World,' a novel
in two volumen." Her neconil novol was " (^iieochy.'' She is also the author of a theological work
entitled "The Law and the Tcutiiuony," Her sister is the author of " Dollars and Cents," a novel ; and
several very pleasuiK volumes for younn people, " The Hills of the Shatcmuc," a tale of the Highlands,
is the joint production of these gifted sisters.

i i

I !

THE HUDSON,

251

It is a

•world as if it was in the deep wilderness of the Upper Hudson,
charming home fr r a child of genius.

On a pleasant morning in Octoher, wh-'^e the trees were yet in full leaf
and hrilliant with the autumnal tints, we went from our homo to Garrison's
station on the Hudson Kiver Railway, and crossed to Cozzens's, a sumner
hotel in the Highlands, about a mile below "West Point. It was situated
neav the brow of a cliff on the western shore of the river, about 180 feet
above tide water, and afforded a most delightful home, during the heat of

VIKW AT (iARRlSO>'S.

summer, to numerous guests, varying in number from two hundred and
fifty to five hundred. There, ever since the houso Avas opened for guests
iu 1849, Lieutenant-General Scott, the General-in-Chief of the American
army, had made his head-qxiarters during the four or five warmer months
of the year. It was a place of fashionable resort from June until October,
and at times was overflowing with guests, who filled the mansion and the
several cottages attached to it. Among the latter was the studio of
Leutze, the historical painter. Only a few days before our visit, it had
been the scene of great festivity on the occasion of the reception of the

252

THK HUDSON.

Prince of "Wales and his suite, -who spent a day and a night there, and at
"West Point, enjoying the unrivalled mountain and river scenery that
surround them.

The pleasure-grounds around Cozzens's were extensive, and were
becoming more beautiful every year. They had been redeemed from the
wilderness state, by labour, within ten years. "We remember passing
through that region before the hand of man was put forth for its redemp-

COZZEXSS,

tion, and seeing the huge boulders — the ** wandering rocks" of the
geologist— strewn over the surface of the earth like apples beneath
fruitful trees after an autumn storm. The change that had been wrought
was marvellous. Another was about to take place. A few weeks after
the visit here mentioned, that fine building delineated in the picture was
destroyed by fire. The writer was passing by, in the evening, on the
railway on tlie eastern side of the river, with a copy of the London Art

THE HUDSON.

253

Journal in •which thesa sketches were first published, containing this
picture, while the building was in flames. Mr. Cozzens soon erected a
more spacious one on the high rocky bluff overlooking Buttermilk Palls,
a very short distance from the site of the other.

Between Cozzens's and the mountains is a small cruciform stone church,
erected years before the hotel was contemplated, chiefly by the contribu-
tion of Professor Robert W. Weir, of West Point, the eminent historical
painter, and one of the best of men in all the relations of life. It is really
a memorial church, built in commemoration of his two sainted children.

CHURCH OF THE HOLY INNOCENTS.

and called " The Church of the Holy Innocents." For this pious purposo
he devoted a portion of the money which ho received from the United
States Government for his picture of ' The Embarkation of the Pilgrims,'
now in the llotunda of the National Capitol. Divine service, according
to the modified ritual of the Church of England, is licld there regularly,
and the seats are free to all who choose to occupy them. We trust our
friend, whose modest nature shrinks from notoriety, will pardon us for
this revelation of his sacred doed. The world, which needs good
teachings, is entitled to the benefit of his noble example.

254

THE HUDSON,

All about the cliffs, on the river front of Cozzens's, are winding paths,
some leading through romantic dells and ravines, or along and across a
clear mountain stream that goes laughing in pretty cascades down the

>-%j:^ <• •

THK BOAD TO COZZENS'S DOCK.

steep shore to tho river. The main road, partly cut like a sloping terrace
in the rocks, is picturesque at every turn, but espcuiallynear the landing,
where pleasant glimpses of the river and its water craft in.'ty be seen.

Altogether Cozzcns's aud its surrouudings form one of the most attractive
places on the Hudson to those who seek healtli and pleasure.

At Cozzens's Dock we procured a waterman, who took us to several
places of interest in the vicinity. Tli first was Buttennillc "Falls, half a
mile below, on tli(> same side of the ii,\i'. JLre a small stream comes
rushing down the rocks in cascades and foaming rapids, falling more than
a hundred feet in the course of as many yards. The chief fall, where the

UL iTliUMILK lAi-l-S.

stream plunges into the river, ia over a slopin;;' granite rock. It spreads
out into a broad sheet of milk-white foam, wliich suggested its name to
the Dutch skippers, and they called it Boter Melck Val — Buttermilk Fall.
The stream affords water-power for flour-mills at the brink of the river.
The fall is so great, that by a series of overshot water-wheels, arranged at
diifcrent altitudes, a small quantity of water does marvellous execution.

25G

THE HUDSON.

Largo vessels como ulougsiile the elevator on the river front, and there
dischurgo cargoes of wheat and take in cargoes of flour.

Rude paths and bridges arc so constructed that visitors may view the
great fall and the cascades above from many points. The latter have a
grand and wild aspect Avhcn the stream is brimful, after heavy rains and
the melting of snows.

UPPER CASCADES, BUTTERMILK FALL.

On the rough plain above is the village of Buttermilk Fall, containing
over three hundred inhabitants. The country around is exceedingly
rough and picturesque, especially in the direction of Fort Montgomery,
three or four miles below ; while on the brow of the high river bank near,
there are some pleasant summer residences. Among these was the
dwelling of Mr. Bigclow, then the associate of Mr. Bryant, the poet, in

THE HUDSON.

257

tlio ownership ami conduct of Ihc New York Eiening Post, but since
appointed, first tlic Secretary of the American Legation at tlic French
Court, in 18GI, and afterwurd ^ifinister rknipotontiary at the same Court.
Here on tlic smooth faces of the rocks might be seen a desecration
which deserves the severest reprobation. All through the Highlands, on
the line of the Hudson River llailway, the same offence met the eye.
"We refer to the occupation of .smooth rocks by great staring letters,
announcing the fact that ouo shopkeeper in New York has " Old London

IltVJiKLV IJOCK.

Dock Gin" for sale, and that another sells "Puphian Lotion for beauti-
fying the Hair." We protest, in the name of every person of taste Avho
travels upon the river and the road, against any disfiguring of the
picturesque scenery of the Hudson Highlands, by making the out-cropping
rocks of the grand old hills play the part of those itinerants who walk the
streets of New York with enormous placards on their backs, advertising
wares for sale ; and the Legislature of the State of New York, which, in
1865, made such disfiguration a penal offence, deserves high praise.
We crossed the river from Buttermilk Full to the " Beverly Dock,"

L L

-I

258

THE HUDSON.

which is interesting only as the place where Arnold, the traitor, entered
his barge in which ho escaped to the Vulture sloop-of-war, on the morning
when ho fled from tlie "Beverly House," the cause of which we have
already considered. Here he kept his barge moored, and here he embarked
on that flight which severed him for ever from the sympathies of his
countrymen — ay, of the world — for those who "accepted the treason,
despised the traitor." His six oarsmen on that occasion, unconscious of
the nature of the general's errand in such hot haste down the river, had
their muscles strenj^'thcncd by a promised reward of two gallons of rum ;
and the barge glided with the speed of the wind. They were awakened
to a sense of their position only when they were detained on board the
Vulture as pi'isoners, and saw their chief greeted as a friend by the enemies
of their country. They were speedily set at liberty, in New York, by
Sir Henry Clinton, who scorned Araold for his meanness and treachery.

^^<^^^^

CIIArTER XIV.

]'] rov/ed to Garrison's, where we clisraissctl the
waterman, and took tlie cars for Peek's Kill, six
miles below, a pleasant village lying at the river
"cniug of a higli and beautiful valley, and upon
pes that overlook a broad bay and extensive
' ;untain ranges.* We passed the night at tlic
(v^J house of a friend (Owen T. Coffin, Esq.), and from the lawn in
'^^^ front of liis dwelling, M'hich commands the iincst view of the
river and mountains in that vicinity, made the sketcli of the
Lower Entrance to the Iliglihinds. On the left is seen the Bonder
Eerg, over and beliind which Sir Henry Clinton's army marched to attack
Forts Clinton and ^Montgomery. On the right is Anthony's Nose, with
the site of Fort Independence between it and Peck's Kill ; and in the
centre is Bear Mountain, at whoso base is the uoaiitifid Lake Sinnipink —
the "Bloody Pond" in revolutionary times. This view includes a
theatre of most important historical events. We may only glance at
tliem.

Peek's Kill, named from the "Kill of Jan Peck," that flows into the
Hudson just above the rocky promontory on the north-western side of the
town, was an American depot of military stores, during the earlier years
of the war for independence. These were destroyed and the post burnt
by the British in the spring of 1777. Thei'c, during most of the war,
was the head-quarters of import-uit divisions of the revolutionary army,
and tliere the British spy was lianged, concerning whom (jcneral Putnam

• Peek's Kill Village wns incnrimrated in IS17. Ii iH Iho most northerly iilace on the Hmlson (beinj?
forly-oiio miles frum New York), wlieio liUHiiicss niiMi in llunnelniixiliM reside. It is hii alielteri'il liy
the lliKl.limils, that it i.s an agivcable iilttce iif resilience in the whiter. It contuinJ ten chnrelies,
cxeellent sehuolit, and had a iM)i)iilutiuu of uhont 4,tH)U in ISiiU,

I a!

2C0

THR HUDSON.

wrote his famous laconic letter to Sir Henry Clinton. The latter claimed
the oflender as a British officer, when Putnam wrote in reply : —

. "JTead-fjuarters, 1th Jnffust, 1117.

" Sir, — Eclnund Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, was taken
as a spy, lurking within our lines. He has been tried as a spy, condemned
as a spy, and shall be executed as a spy ; and the flag is ordered to depart
immediately.

"P.S. — He has been accordingly executed."

"IsiuEL Putnam."

LOWKB ENTRANCE TO THE JTIQHLANDS, FKOM I'KEK'S KILL.

At Peek's Kill wc procured a waterman, avIioso father, then eighty-five
years of age, conveyed the writer across the King's Perry, four or five
miles below, twelve years before. The moruing was cool, and a stiff
breeze was blowing from the north. We crossed the bay, and entered
Fort ^[ontgomcry Creek (anciently Poplopen's Kill) between the two
rocky promontories on which stood Forts Clinton and ^fontgomery, within
riile-phot of each other. The banks of the creek are high and precipitous,

THE HUDSON.

261

the southein one covered with trees ; and less than half a mile from its
broad and deep moutli, in which large vessels may anchor, it is a wiUl
mountain stream, rushing into the placid tide-water through narrow
valleys and dark ravines. Here, at the foot of a wild cascade, we moored

1 A1,I,S IN rOUT .MOSTOOMURY CBKEK,

our little boat, and sliotched the acvw. A short d itn lias been constructed
there for sending water through a flume to a mill a few rods below.
This stream, like Indian Brook, presents n thousand charming pictures,
Avherc ntiturc woos her lovers in the pleasant summer-time..

ill'

262

THE HUDSON.

From the mill may be obtained a view of the promontories on each side
of the creek, and of the lofty Anthony's Nose on the eastern side of the
river, whicli appears in our sketch, dark and imposing, as we look toward
the east. Fort Montgomery was on the northern side of the creek, and
Fort Clinton on the southern eide. They were constructed at the
beginning of the war for independence, and became the theatre of a
desperate and bloody contest in the autumn of 1777. They were strong
fortresses, though feebly manned. From Fort Montgomery to Anthony's
Nose a heavy boom and massive iron chain were stretched over the river,

BCENK IN lOHT MONTOOMIiKV C'KKEK.

to obstruct British ships tluit might attempt a passage toAvard West Point.
Tlio two forts were respectively commanded by two brotheis, Generuls
George and James Clinton, the former at that time governor of the
newly organised State of IS\'W York.

Burgoyno, then surrounded by the Americans at Saratoga, was, as m'O
have observed in a former chapter, in daily expectation of a diversion in
his favour, on the Lower Hudson, by Sir Henry Clinton — in command of
the Briti^'h troops at New York. Karly in October, tlio latter titled out

THE HUDSON.

263

an expedition for the Highlands, and accompanied it in person. Ho
deceived General Putnam, then in command at Peek's Kill, by feints on
that side of the river, at the same time he sent detachments over the
Bonder Berg, under cover of a fog. They Avere piloted by a resident
Tory or loyalist, and in the afternoon of the Gth of October, and in two
divisions, fell upon the forts. The commanders of the forts had no
suspicions of the proximity of the enemy until their picket guards were

LAlwK KINMJ'INK.

assailed. These, and a detachment sent out ia that direction, had a
severe skirmish with the invaders on the borders of Luke Siuniplnk, a
beautiful sheet of water lying at the foot of the lofty Bear Mountain, on
the same general level as the foundations of the fort. Muny of the dead
were cast into that lake, near its outlet, and their blood so incarnadined
its waters, that it has ever since been vulgarly called "Bloody Pond."
The gai'risons at the two forts, meanwhile, prepared to resist the attack

with desperation. They -stcrc completely invested at four o'clock in the
afternoon, when a general contest commenced, in which British vessels in
the river participated. It continued until twilight. The Americans
then gave way, and a general flight ensued. The two commanders were
among those avIio escaped to the mountains. The Americans lost in
killed, M'ounded, and prisoners, about three hundred. The British loss
was about one hundred and forty.

The contest ended with a sublime spectacle. Above the boom and
chain the Americans had two frigates, two galleys, and an armed sloop.
On the fall of the forts, the crews of these vessels spread their sails, and,
slipping their cables, attempted to escape up the river. But the win-l
was adverse, and they were compelled to abandon them. They set them
on fire wlicn they left, to prevent their falling- into tlio hands of an
enemy. " The flames suddenly broke forth,*' wrote Stedman. a British
officer and author, "ar. '. as every sail was set, the vessels soon became
magnificent pyramids of hre. The reflection on tlio steep face of the
opposite mountain (Anthony's Nose), ani- the long train of ruddy light
which shone upon the water for a prodigious distance, had a wonderful
effect ; while ihc car was awfully filled with the continued or Incs from
the rocky shores, as the flames gradually reached the loaded cannons.
The whole was sublimely terminated by the explosions, Avhich left all
again in darkness."

Early on the folloAving morning, the obstructions in the river, which
luul cost the Americans a quarter of a million of dollars, continental
money, were destroyed by the British fleet. Fort Constitution, opposite
West Point, was abandonee. A free passage of the Hudson being opened,
Vaughan and Wallace sailed up the river on their destructive errand to
Kingston and Clermont, already mentioned.

A short distance bi'low Montgomery Creek, at the mouth of Lake
Sinnipink Brook, is one of the depots of the Knickerbocker Ice Company,
of New York. The spacious storehouses for the ice arc on the rocky
bank, thirty or forty feet above the river. The ice, cut in blocks from
the lake above in winter, is sent down upon Avooden " ways," that wind
through the forest with a gentle inclination, from tlic outlet of Sinnipink,
for nearly half a mile. A portion of the " ways," from the storehouses

THE HUDSON.

265

to the forwarding depot below, is seen in our sketch. From that depot
the ice is conveyed into vessels in warm Aveather, and carried to market.
More than thirty thousand tons of ice are annually shipped from this
single depot. Ice is an important article of the commerce of the Hudson,
from whose surface, also, immense quantities are gathered every winter.

From the high bank above the ice depot, a very fine view of Anthony's
Nose and the Sugar Loaf in the distance may be obtained. The latter name
the reader will remember as that of the lofty eminence in the rear of the

AMUONV'B NvSK AM) lllK bl UAH LOAf, FUOM THK ICE DEriiT.

i3cverly House. At West Point and its vicinity it forms a long range of
mountains, but looking up from the neighbourhood of the Nose, it is a
perfect pyramid in form. It is one of the first objects that attract the
eye of the voyager, when turning the point of the Nose on entering the
Highlands from belosv. Its form suggested to the practical minds of the
Butch a Siiijcker Bioodt — Sugar Loaf — and so they named it.

266

THE HUDSON.

We crossed the river from Lake Sinnipinlj to Anthony's Nose, through
the point of which the Hudson Eiver Railway passes, in a tunnel over
two hundred feet in length. This is a lofty rocky promontory, whose
summit is almost thirteen hundred feet above the river, and with the
jutting point of the Bonder Berg, a mile and a half below, gives the
Hudson there a double curve, and the appearance of an arm of the sea,
terminating at the mountains. Such was the opinion of Hendrick
Hudson, as he approached this point from below. The true origin of the

TUiNKL AT AKXIIOM a KOSK.

name of this promontory is unknown. Irving makes the veracious
historian, Diedrich Knickerbocker, throw light upon the subject : —

'* And now I am going to tell a fact, which I doubt much ray readers
will hesitate to believe, but if they do they are welcome not to believe a
word in this whole history — for nothing which it contains is more true.
It must be known then that the nose of Anthony the trumpeter was of a
very lusty size, strutting boldly from his countenance like a mountain of
Golconda, being sumptuously bedecked with rubies and other precious

TIlE HUDSON.

261

stones — tho true regalia of a king of good fellows, which jolly Eacchus
gi'ants to all who bouse it heartily at the flagon. Now thus it happened,
that bright and early in the morning, the good Anthony, having washed
his burly visage, was leaning over tho quarter railing of the galley,
contemplating it in the glassy wave below. Just at this moment the
illustrious sun, breaking in all his s[)lendour from behind a high bluff of
the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon tho
refulgent nose of the sounder of brass — the reflection of which shot
straightway down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty
sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. This huge monster, being
with infinite labour hoisted on board, furnished a luxurious repast to all
the crew, being accounted of excellent flavour excepting about the wound,
where it smacked a little of brimstone — and this, ou my voracity, Avas tlic
first time that ever sturgeon was eaten in these parts by Christian
people. "When this astonishing miracle became known to Peter Stuy-
vesant, and that he tasted of the unknown fish, he, as may well be
supposed, marvelled exceedingly; and as a monument thereof, he gave
tho name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neighbourhood,
and it has continued to be called Antliony's Xose ever since that time."

/)r,vvn the steep rocky valley between Anthony's Nose and a summit
almost as lofty half a mile below, one of the wildest streams of this
fjPgion flows in gentle cascades in dry weather, but as a rusliing torrent
fffxni:.:. mIm storms or the time of the melting of the snows in spring.
Tiio puir: * Jh'och'n Kill, ^v Broken Creek, it being seen in

*'Mts" as it jfinds its way among the rocks and slirubbery to tho river.
The name is ttoW c<^^iij;tcd to Brockcy Kill. It is extremely picturesque
from every point or View, / >^pc( iully when seen glittering in the evening
sun. It comes from a wild wet region among the hills, where the
llattlesnak'',*' tho roost venomous serpent of the American continent,

• Till! Crotalus (tuvissus, or cnnirrK/n nwdtorn Baillesii.iKc nl the United Stutcs, is of a yellowish or
recWisli brown, sometimes of a eliostniil 'J»<k, Willi irreguhir rhouilioidal black blutehes ; lieiul large,
tliitteiied, and triaiiKulnr; length from three tOHCvcii or eiglit feet. On the tail is a riitt/e, consisting of
several hor'iy eidiirgements, loosely aUai hi'd to each other, making a lond raltlinj? sound when shaken
and rniibed atrainst i-uch other. Tlir^e ;u-. li-ed by the ser|)ent to give warning of its presence. When
disturbed, it throws itself into a coil, vild.itis its rattles, and then springing:, sometimes fom' or five feet,
fixes it8 deadly fangs in its victim. It feeds on 1 irds, rabbits, squirrels, Sec.

abounds. They are found in nil parts of the Highlands, but in far less
abundance than formerly. Indeed they are now so seldom seen, that the
tourist need have no dread of them.

THE BUOCKEX KILL.

A little below the Brocken Kill, at Flat Point, is one of those tunnels
and deep rock cuttings 50 frequently passed along the entire line of tho
Hudson Iliver Ilailway ; and in the river opposite is a picturesi^ue island

THE HUDSON.

269

called lona, i oataining about 300 acres ^f land, iucluding a marsh meadow
of 200 acres. Only about forty acres of the island proper, besides, is
capable of tillage. It lies within the triangle fonned by the Bonder
Berg, Anthony's Nose, and 15' ar Mountain. There we spent an houi
pleasantly and profitably -w ith the proprietor, C. "NV. Grant, M.D., who
resided there, and was extensively engaged in the propagation of grape--
vines and choice fruit-trees. He had a vineyard of twenty acres, from
2,000 to 3,000 bearing pear-trees, and small fruit of evt ry kind. He had

BATILESXAKK.

eleven propagation houses, and produced more grape and other fruit-plants
than all other establishments in the United States combined.

lona is upon the dividing lino of temperature. The sea breeze stops^
here, and its cftects are visible upon vegetation. The season is two weeks
earlier than at Newburgh, only fourteen miles northward, above the
Highlands. It is at the lower entrance to this mountain range. The
width of the river between it and Anthony's Nose is only three-eighths of
a mile — less than at any other point below Albany. The water is deep,
and the tidal currents are so swilt, that this part of the river is called
" The Eace."

,.«^..

r^>/' ^^'l'

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

1^12^ |2.5
1^ E^ II 2.2

! -^ !III!M

l.b

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

<?^1<^

/^<=^
•^^

!^^ .% ^,<

t/.

[25 U_ 1.6

•4

_ 5/'

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SaO

(716) 872-4503

i
j

■■■I

Southward from lona, on the western shore of the river, rises the
rocky Bonder Berg, or Thunder Mountain, where, in summer, the tempest
is often seen brooding ** The captains of the river craft," says Irving,
in his legend of " The Storm-Ship," " talk of a little bulbous-bottomed
Dutch goblin, in trunk hose and sugar-loafed hat, with a speaking-trumpet
in his hand, which, they say, keeps the Bonder Berg. They declare that
they have heard him, in storm" weather, in the midst of the turmoil.

■It'NNEI, AT FLAT I'OINT.

giving orders in Low Dutch, for the piping up of a fresh gust of wind, or
the rattling off of anotlier thunder-clap. That sometimes he has been seen
BuiTOunded by a crew of little imps, in broad breeches and short dcirblets,
tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist, and playing a thousand
gambols in the lir, or buzzing like a swarm of flics about Anthony's Nose;
and that, at such times, the huvry-scurry of the storm was always greatest.
One time a sloop, in passing by the Bonder Berg, was overtaken by a

THE HUDSON.

271

thunder-gust, that came scouring round the mountain, and seemed to
burst just over the vessel. Though tight aud well ballasted, she laboured
dreadfully, and the water came over the gunwale. All the crsw wore
amazed, when it was discovered that there was a little white sugar-loaf
hat on the mast-head, known at once to be the hat of the Heer of the
Bonder Berg. N'obody, however, dared to climb to the mast-head, and
get rid of this ten-ible hat. The sloop continued labouring and rocking,

lONA, IKOM THE lUILWAV.

as if she would have rolled her mast overboard, and seemed in continual
danger, either of upsetting, or of running on shore. In this way she
drove quite through the Highlands, until she had passed Pollopel's Island,
where, it is said, the jurisdiction of the Bonder lierg potentate ceases.
No sooner had she passed this bourne, than the little hat spning up into
the air like a top, whirled up all the clouds into a vortex, and hunied
them back to the summit of tJie Bonder 13crg, while the sloop righted

272

THE HUDSON.

herself, and sailed on as quietly as if in a mill-pond. Nothing saved her
from utter wreck but the fortunate circumstance of having a horse-shoe
nailed against the mast — a wise precaution against evil spirits, since
adopted by all the Dutch captains that navigate this haunted river.

'* There is another stoiy told of this foul- weather urchin, by Skipper
.Daniel Ouslesticker, of Fish Kill, who was never known to tell a lie.
He declared that, in a severe squall, he saw hiro seated astride of his
bowsprit, riding the sloop ashore, full butt against Anthony's Nose, and
that ho was exorcised by Dominic Van Geisen, of Esopus, who happened
to be on board, and who sang the hymn of St. Nicholas, whereupon the
goblin threw himself up in the air like a ball, and went off in a whirlwind,
carrying away with him the nightcap of the Dominic's wife, which was
discovered the next Sunday morning hanging on the weather-cock of
Esopus church steeple, at least forty miles off. Several events of this
kind having taken place, the regular skippers of the river for a long time
did not venture to pass the Donder Berg without lowering their peaks,
out of homage to the Heer of the Mountains ; and it was observed that
all such as paid this tribute of respect were suffered to pass unmolested."

"Wo have observed that the tempest is often seen broodirg upon the
Donder Berg in summer. "Wo give a sketch of one of those scenes, drawn
by the writer several years ago, when the' steam-engine of an immense
pumping apparatus was in operation at Donder Berg Point. Concerning
that engine and its co-workers, there is a curious tale of mingled fraud,
superstition, credulity, and "gullibility," that vies with many a plot
born in the romancer's brain. It cannot bo told here. The simple out-
lines are, that some years ago an iron cannon was, by accident, brought
up from the river depths at this point. Some speculator, as the story
goes, at once conceived a scheme of fraud, for the success of which ho
relied on the average ignorance and credulity of mankind. It was boldly
proclaimed, in the face of recorded history, that Captain Kidd's piratical
vessel was sunken in a storm at this spot with untold treasures on board,
and that one of his cannons had been raised. Further, that the decl'. of
his vessel had been penetrated by a very long augur, hard substances
encountered by it, and pieces of silver brought up in its thread — the
evidence of coffers of specie below. This augur with its bits of silver was

THE HUDSON.

273

exhibited, and the story believed. A stock company was formed. Shares
were readily taken. The speculator was chief manager. A coffer dam
was made over the supposed resting-place of the Ir'^asure-ship. A steam-
engine and huge pumps, driven by it, were set in motion. Day after day,
and month after month, the work went on. One credulous New York
merchant invested 20,000 dollars in the scheme. The speculator took
large commissions. Hope failed, the work stopped, and nothing now

DOMIKU llEUU I'Ol.NT.

remains to tell the tale but the ruins of the coffer dam and the remains of
the pumps, which may be seen almost on a level with the surface of the
river, at high water.

The true history of the cannon found there is, probably, that it is one
of several captured by the Americans at Stony Point, just below, in 1779.
They attempted to carry the cannon on galleys (Hut boats) to West Toint.
According to the narrative of a British officer present, a shot from the

N N

"Yff

Vulture sloop-of-war sunk one of tho boats off Donder Berg Point. This
cannon, probably, "went to the bottom of the river at that time. And so
vanishes the right of any of Kidd's descendants to that ohl cannon.

A few weeks after my visit to the Donder Berg and its vicinity, I was
again at Peek's Kill, and upon its broad and beautiful bay. But a great
change had taken place in the aspect of the scene. The sober foliage of
late autumn had fallen, and where lately the most gorgeous colours clothed
the Lfty hills in indescribable beauty, nothing but bare stems and
branches, and grey rugged rocks, were seen, shrouded in the snow that
covered hill and valley, mountain and plain. The river presented a
smooth surface of strong ice, and winter, with all its rigours, was holding
supreme rule in the realm of nature without.

It was evening when I arrived at Peck's Kill — a cold, serene, moon-
light evening. Muffled in a thick cloak, and with hands covered by stout
woollen gloves, I sallied out to transfer to paper and fix in memory the
scene upon Peck's Kill (or Peek's Kill Creek, as it is erroneously written),
of which I had obtained a glimpse from the window of the railway- car.
The frost bit sharply, and cold keen gusts of wind came sweeping from
the Highlands, while I stood upon the causeway at the drawbridge at the
mouth of Peek's Kir, and made my evening sketch.* All was cold,
silent, glittering, and solitary, except a group of young skaters, gliding
spcctre-liko in the crisp night air, their merry laughter ringing out clear
and loud when one of tho party was made to "see stars" — not in the
black arch above — as his head took tb place of his heels upon the ice.
The form of an iron furnace, in deep shadow, on tho southern side of tho
creek, was the only token of human labour to be seen in the view, except
the cabin of the drawbridge keeper at my side.

A little north of Peek's Kill Hollow, as the valley is called by tho
inhabitants, is another, lying at tho bases of the rugged Highlands, called
the Canopus Hollow. It is a deep, rich, and interesting valley, through
which flows the Canopus Creek. In its bosom is pleasant little Continental

* This raihvny-bridge and cftiiseway is called CortUmdt Bridge. It is 1,196 feet in lenglli. At ita
nortli-western end is a gravelly hill, on which stood a battery, called Fort Independence, during the
Revolution. The Indians called Ihe Peck's Kill Mng-ri-fjn-rics, and its vicinity S:ick-hoes.

THE HUDSON.

275

Village, so named in the time of the Eevolr.tlon because the hamlet there
was made a depot for Continental or Government cattle and stores. These
were destroyed, three days after the capture of Forts Clinton and Mont-
gomery, by Governor Tyron, at the head of a band of German mer-
cenaries known as Hessians, because a larger portion of the German
troops, hired by the British Government to assist in crushing the rebellion
in America, were furnished by the Prince of Hesse Cassel. Tiyon, who

THE peek's kill.

had been governor of the colony of New York, and was now a brigadier
in the royal army, hated the Americans intensely. He really seemed to
delight in expeditions of this kind, having almost destroyed Danbury, in
Connecticut, and East Haven, Fairfield, and Norwalk, on the borders of
Long Island Sound, in the same State. Now, after destroying the public
stores and slaughtering many cattle, he set fire to almost every house in
the village. In allusion to this, and the devastations on the Hudson,

276

THE HUDSON.

above the Highlands, by General Vaughan, Trumbull, an American
contemporary poet, wrote indignantly : —

" Behold, like whelps of Britain's lion,
Our warriors, Clinton, Vaughan, and Trj'on,
March forth with patriotic joy
To ravisli, plunder, and destroy.
Great gen'rals! foremost in their nation,
The jouinej'jnen of desolation,
Like Samson's foxes, each assails.
Let loose with fire-brands in their tails.
And spreads destniction more forlorn
Than they among I'hilistine corn."

It is proper to observe that Tryon's marauding expeditions were con-

BKATERS ON PKEK'S KILL BAV.

demned by the British public, and the ministry -were censured by the
opposition in parliament for permitting such conduct to pass unrebuked.

On the following morning, when the sun had climbed high towards
meridian, I left Peek's Kill for a day's sketching and observation in the

THE HUDSON.

277

Winter air. Ihe bay was alive with people of all ages, soxes, and condi-
tions. It was the first day since a late snow-storm that the river had
offered good sport for skaters, and the navigators of ice-boats.* It was a
gay scene. Wrapped in furs and shawls, over-coats and cloaks, men and
women, boys and girls, w^re enjoying the rare exercise with the greatest
pleasure Fun, pure fun, ruled the hour. The air was vocal with shouts
and laughter; and when the swift ice-boat, with sails set, gay pennon
streaming, and freighted with a dozen boys and girls, came sweeping
gracetully towards the crowd,-after making a comet-like orbit of four or
five miles to the feet of the Bonder Berg, Bear Mountain, and Anthony's
iN08e,-there was a sudden shout, and scattering, and merry laughter
that would have made old Scrooge, even before his conversion, tremulous
with delight, and glowing with desires to be a boy again and singin-
Christmas Carols with a hearty good-will. I played the boy with the
rest for awhile, and then, with long strides upon skates, my satchel with
portfolio slung over my shoulder, I bore away towards the great lime-
kilns on the shores of Tomkins's Cove, on the western side of the river
four or five miles below. '

«p3'it;:e"Ll^^^^^^ usually a strong woolen .ria„gu.ar p.atform

■iff

I %

CHAPTER XV.

N my -way to Tomkins's Cove I encountered other groups

of people, who appeared in positive contrast with the

merry skaters on Peek's Kill Bay. They were soher,

thoughtful, winter fishermen, thickly scattered over

the surface, and drawing their long nets from narrow

fissures which they had cut in the ice. The tide was " serving,"

and many a striped bass, and white perch, and infant sturgeon

at times, were drawn out of their warmer element to be

instantly congealed in the keen wintry air.

These fishermen often find their calling almost as profitable
in winter as in April and May, when they draw *' schoold " of shad from
the deep. They generally have a ** catch" twice a day when the tide is
" slack," their nets being filled when it is ebbing or flowing. They cut
fissures in the ice, at right angles with the direction of the tidal currents,
eight or ten yards in length, and about two feet in width, into which
they drop their nets, sink them with weights, and stretching them to
their utmost length, suspend them by sticks that lie across the fissure.
Baskets, boxes on hand-sledges, and sometimes sledges drawn by a horse,
are used in carrying the " catch" to land. Lower down the river, in the
vicinity of the Palisades, when the strength of the ice will allow this
kind of fishing, bass weighing from thirty to forty pounds each are fre-
quently caught. These winter fisheries extend from the Donder Berg to
Piermont, a distance of about twenty-five miles.

I went on shore at the ruins of an old lime-kiln at the upper edge of
Tomkins's Cove, and sketched the fishermen in the distance toward Peek's
Kill. It was a tedious task, and, with benumbed fingers, I hastened to
the office and store of the Tomkins Lime Company to seek warmth and
information. With Mr. Scaring, one of the proprieters, I visited the
kilns. They are the most extensive works of the kind on the Hudson.

THE HUDSON.

279

They arc at the foot of an immense cliff of limestone, nearly 200 feet in
height, immediately behind the kilns, and extend more than half a mile
along the river.* The kilns were numerous, and in their management, and
the quarrying of the limestone, about 100 men were continually employed.
I saw them on the brow of the wooded cliff, loosening huge masses and
sending them below, while others were engaged in blasting, and others
again in wheeling the lime from the vents of the kilns to heaps in front.

■\VI.NTKB riSHISG.

where it is slaked before being placed in vessels for transportation to
market. This is a necessary precaution against spontaneous combustion.

♦ This doiwsit of limestone occuiiics a siiporficiiil men of nearly 600 acres, extending in tlie rear of
Stony and Grassy Points, where it disappears beiieatli th • red sandstone fornuvtion. It is traversed by
wliito veins of carbonate of lime. In 1837 Mr. Tomkins pnrchased 20 acres of land covering this lime-
s'one bed for 100 dollars an acre, then considered a very extravagant price. The stratmn where they
are now qnarrying is at least 500 feet in thickness. It is estimated that an acre of tliis limestone,
worked down to the water level, will yield (iOO,000 barrels of lime, upon which a mean profit of 2.5 cents
a barrel is the minimum Some of this limestone is black and variegated, and makes pleasing orna-
mental marbles. Most of it is blue.

■■

280

THE HUDSON.

Many vessels are employed in carrying away lime, limestone, and
"gravel" (pulverized limestone, not fit for the kiln) from Tomkins's
C"ve, for whose accommodation several smtrll wharves have been
constructed.

One million bushels of lime were produced at the kilns each year. From
the quarries, thousands of tons of the stone were scut annually to kilns
in New Jersey. From 20,000 to 25,000 tons of the ** gravel " were used
each year in the construction of macadamised roads. The quarry had

FISIIEBMEN, FBOM THE OLD LIME-KILXS.

been worked almost twenty-five years. From small beginnings the
establishment had grown to a veiy extensive one. The dwelling of the
chief proprietor was upon the hill above the kiln at the upper side of
the cove ; and near the water the houses of the workmen form a pleasant
little village. The country behind, for many miles, is very wild, and
almost uncultivated. ^ j^.- -^ — . ^. ;„ ; - ;^ I., - , v .l. . :_

I followed a narrow road along the bank of the river, to the extremo

THE HUDSON.

281

southern verge of the Hmostonc cliff, near Stony Point, and there
pketched that famous, bold, rocky peninsula from the best spot where a
view of its entire length may be obtained. The whole Point is a' mass of
granite rock, with patches of evergreen trees and shrubs, excepting ca its
northern side (at which we are looking in the sketch), where may be seen
a black cliff of magnetic iron ore. It is too limited in quantity to tempt
labour or capital to quarry it, and the granite is too much broken to be

TOMKINS'S I.1ME.KILXS AXU O.U.USRV.

very desirable for building pui-poscs. So that peninsula, clustered with
historic associations, will ever remain almost unchanged in form and
feature. A lighthouse, a keeper's lodge, and a fog-bell, occupy its summit.
These stand upon and within the mounds that mark the site of the old
fort which was built there at the beginning of the war for independence.
Stony Point was the theatre of stirring events in the summer of 1779.
The fort there, and Fort Fayette on Yerplanck's Point, on the opposite side

282

THE HUDSON.

of the river, were captured from the Amcioans by Sir Henry Clinton, on
the 1st of June of that year. Clinton commanded the troops in person.
These were conveyed by a small squadi'ou under the command of Admiral
Collier. The garrison at Stouy Point was very small, and retired towards
West Point on the approach of the British. The fort changed masters
without bloodshed. The victors pointed the guns of the captured fortress,
and cannon and bombs brought by themselves, upon Fort Fayette the next

•'

STONY rOINT.

moruing.

General Vaughan assailed it in the rear, and the little ^nrrison
soon surrendered themselves prisoners ef v ar.

These fortresses, commanding the lower entrance to the Highlands,
were very important. General Anthony Wiyne, known as "Mad
Anthon3'/' on account of his impetuosity and daring in the service, was
then in command oi the Americans in the neighbourhood. Burning with
a desire to retake the forts, ho applied to Washington for permission to
make the attempt, It would bo perilous in the extreme. The position of

THE HUDSON.

283

the foit was almost impregnable. Situated upon a high rocky peninsula,
an island at high water, and always inaccessible dry-shod, except across
a narrow causeway, it was strongly defended by outwork? and a double
row of ahattis. Upon tbreo sides of the rock were the waters of the
Hudson, and on the fourth was a morass, deep and dangerous. The
cautious "Washington considered ; -when the impetrous Wayne, scorning
all obstacles, said, "General, I'll storm hell if you will only plan it!"

BTONV VOINT LIGUTKOUSE AM) FOU-UKLL.

Permission to attack Stony Point was given, preparations were secretly
made, and at near midnight, on the 15th of July, Wayne led a strong
force of determined men towards the fortress. They were divided into
two columns, each led by a forlorn hoj; of twenty picked men. They
advannd undiscovered until within pistol-shot of thn picket guard on the
heights. The garrison were suddenly aroused from sleep, and the deep
silence of the night was broken by the roll of the drum, the loud cry "To
arras ! to arms ! " the rattle of musketry from the ramparts and behind the

284

THE HUDSON.

dbatlis, and the roar of cannon charged with deadly grape-shot. In the
face of this terrible storm the Americans made their way, by force of
bayonet, to the centre of the works. Wayne was struck upon the head
by a musket ball that brought him upon his knees. ** March on!" he
cried. " Carry me into the fort, for I will die at the head of my
column ! " The wound was not very severe, and in an hour he had
sufficiently recovered to write the following note to Washington : —

" Stony Point, IQth July, 1779, 2 o'clock, a.m.

"Deau Gknehal, — The fort and garrison, with Colonel Johnston, are

ours. Our officers and men behaved like men who are determined to bo

free.

** Yours most respectfully,

" Anthony 'Wayne."

At dawn the next morning the cannon of the captured fort were again
turned upon Fort Fayette ou Verplanck's Point, then occupied by the
British under Colonel Webster. A desultory cannonading was kept up
during the day. Sir Henry Clinton sent relief to Webster, and the
Americans ceased further attempts to recapture the fortress. They could
not even retain Stony Point, their numbers were so few. Washington
ordered them to remove the ordnance and stores, and destroy and abandon
the works. A large portion of the heavy ordnance was placed upon a
galley to be conveyed to AVest Point. It was sunk by a shot from the
Vulture, off Bonder Berg Point, and one of the cannon, as we have
observed, raised a few y3ars ago by accident, was supposed to have been
brought up from the wreck of the ship of the famous Captain Kidd.
Congress testified its gi'atitude to Wayne for his services by a vote of thanks
for his "brave, prudent, and soldierly conduct," and also ordered a gold
medal, emblematic of the event, to be struck and presented to him.
Copies of this medal, in silver, were given to two of the subordinate
officers engaged in the enterprise.

I climbed to the summit of Stony Point along a steep, narrow, winding
road from a deserted wharf, the snow almost knee-deep in some places.
The view was a most interesting one. As connected with the history and

traditions of the country, every spot upon which the eye rested was
classic ground, and the waters awakened memories of many legends.
Truthful chronicles and weird stories in abundance arc associated with the
scenes around. Arnold's treason and Andre's capture and death, the
"storm ship" and the "bulbous-bottomed Dutch goblin that keeps the
Bonder Berg," already mentioned, and a score of histories and tales
pressed upon the attention and claimed a passing thought. But the keen
wintry wind sweeping over the Point kept the mind prosaic. There was

vebplanck's point, from stosy point liguthousb.

no poetry in the attempts to sketch two or three of the most prominent
scenes ; and I resolved, when that task was accomplished, to abandon the
amusement until the warm sun of spring should release the waters from
their Boreal chains, clothe the earth in verdure, and invite the birds from
the balmy south to build their nests in the branches where the snow-heaps
then lay.

From the lighthouse is a comprehensive view of Verplanck's Point

286

THE HUDSON.

I'!

opposite, whereon no vestige of Fort Fayette now remains. A little
village, pleasant pastures and tilled fields in summer, and brick
manufactories the year round, now occupy the places of former structures
of war, around which the soil still yields an occasional ball, and bomb,
and musket shot. The Indians called this place Me-a-nagh. They sold
it to Stephen Van Cortlandt, in the year 1683, with land east of it called
Ap-pa-magh-pogh. The purchase was confirmed by patent from the
English government. On this point Colonel Livingston held command at

OBASaV FOIWT AND TORN MOUNTAIK.

the time of Arnold's treason, in 1780 ; and here were the head-quarters of
Washington for some time in 1782. It wcs off this point that Henry
Hudson first anchored the Salf-Moon after leaving Yonkers. The
Highland Indians flocked to the vessel in great numbers. One of them
was killed in an affi-ay, and this circumstance planted ^the seed of hatred
of the white man in the bosom of the Indians in that region.

From the southern slope of Stony Point, where the rocks lay in wild

confusion a fine view of Grassy Point, Brewster's Cove, HaVerstraw Bay,
the Torn Mountain, and the suirounding country may be obtained. The
little village of Grassy Point, wh.re brick-making is the staple industrial
pursuit, appeared like a dark tongue thrust out from the surrounding
whiteness. Haverstraw Bay, which swarms in summer with water-craft
of every kind, lay on the left, in glittering solitude beneath the Wintry
coudsthat gathered while I was there, and cast down a thick, fierce
blinding snow-shower, quite unlike that described by Bryant, when he

sung —

'• Here delicate snow-stars out of the cloud.
Come floating downward in airj- play,
tike spangles dropped from the glistening crowd

That whiten by night the milky way ;
There broader and burlier masses fall ;
The sullen \(ater buries them all:

Flake after flake,
All drowned in the dark and silent lake."

The snow-Shower soon passed by. The spires of Haverstraw appeared in
^e distance, at the foot of the mountain, and on the right was Treason
Hi 1 with the famous mansion of Joshua Hott Smith, who was involved
m the odium of Arnold's attempt to betray his country.

Here I will recall the memcries of a visit there at the close of a pleasant
summer day, several years ago. I had lingered upon Stony Point, until
near sunset, listening to the stories of an old waterman, then eightv-five
years of age, who assisted in building the fort, and then I started oifoot
for Haverstraw. I stopped frequently to view the beautiful prospect of
river and country on the east, while the outlines of the distant shores
were imperceptibly fading as the twilight came on. At dusk I passed an
acre of ground, lying by the road-side, which was given some years before
as a burial-place for the neigh])ourhood. It was already populous. The
lines of Longfellow were sugg(>sted and pondered. He says,—

"I like that ancient Saxon phrase wliich calls
Tlie burial-ground God's Acre I It is just ;
It consecrates each grave within its wails.
And breathes u benison o'er the sleeping dust.

" Ood't Acre! Yes, that blessed name imparls
Comfort to those who in the grave have sown
Tlie seed that th(^y had garner'd in their hearts,
Their bread of life, alas ! no more their own."

288

THE HUDSON.

Night had fallen when I reached Treason Hill, so I passed on to the
village near. Early on the following morning, before the dew had left
the grass, I sketched Smith's House, where Arnold and Andre completed
those negotiations concerning the delivery, by the former, of "West Point
and its defenders into the hands of the British, for a mercenary con-
sideration, which led to the death of one, and the eternal infamy of the
other.

The story of Arnold's treason may be briefly told. "We have had
occasion to allude to it several times already.

smith's house, on TRKASOX'HII.1..

Arnold was a brave soldier, but a bad man. He was wicked in boy-
hood, and in early manhood his conduct was marked by traits that pro-
mised ultimate disgrace. Impulsive, vindictive, and unscrupulous, he
was personally unpopular, and was seldom without a quarrel with some
of his companions in anus. This led to continual irritations, and his
ambitious aims were often thwarted. Ho fought nobly for freedom

THE HUDSON.

289

during the earlier years of the war, but at last his passions gained the
mastery over his judgment and conscience.

Arnold twice received honourable wounds during the war — one at
Quebec, the other almost two years later at Saratoga ; * both were in the
leg. The one last received, while gallantly fighting the troops of Bur-
goyne, was not yet healed when, in the spring of 1778, the British army,
under Sir Henry Clinton, evacuated Philadelphia, and the Americans,
under Washington, came from their huts at Valley Forge to take their
places. Arnold, not being able to do active duty in the field, was ap-
pointed military governor of Philadelphia. Fond of display, he there
entered upon a course of extravagant living that was instrumental in his
ruin. He made his head-quavtors at the fine old mansion built by William
?cnn, ktjpt a coach and four, gave splendid dinner parties, and charmed
the gayer portions of Philadelphia society with his princely display. His
station and the splendour of his equipage captivated the daughter of
Edward Shippen, a leading loyalist, and afterwards chief justice of Penn-
sylvania; she was then only eighteen years of age. Her beauty and
accomplishments won the heart of the widower of forty. They were-
married. Staunch Whigs shook their heads in doubt concerning the
alliance of an American general with a leading Tory family.

Arnold's extravagance soon brought numerous creditors to his door.
Bather than retrench his expenses he procured money by a system of
fraud and prostitution of his official power : the city being under martial
law, his will was supreme. The people became incensed, and official
inquiries into his conduct were instituted, first by the local state council,
and then by the Continental Congress. The latter body referred the
whole matter to Washington. The accused was tried by court-martial,
and he was found guilty of two of four charges. The court passed the
mildest sentence possible — a mere reprimand by the commander-in-chief.
This duty Washington performed in the most delicate manner. " Our

• Soon after Arnold joined the British Aiiny.he was sent with a considerable force upon a marauding
expedition np the James Eiver, in Virginia. In an action not fai- from Richmond, the capital, some
Americans were made prisoners. He asked one of them wliat his countrymen would do witli him
(Arnold) it they should catch him. The prisoner instantly replied, " Bury the leg that was wounded ".t
Quebec and Saratoga with military honom-s, and hang the remainder of you."

P P

290

THE HUDSON.

profession," he said, " is the chastest of all ; even the shadow of a fault
tarnishes the lustre of our finest achievements. The least inadvertence
may rob us of the public favour, so hard to be acquired. I reprimand
you for having forgotten that, in proportion as you had rendered yourself
formidable to our enemies, you should have been guarded and temperate
in your deportment towards your fellow citizens. Exhibit anew those
noble qualities which have placed you on the list of our most valued
commanders. I will myself furnish you, as far as it may be in my power,
with opportunities of regaining the esteem of your country."

What punishment could have been lighter ? yet Arnold was greatly
irritated. A year had elapsed since his accusation, and he expected a
full acquittal. But for nine months the rank weeds of treason had been
growing luxuriantly in his heart. He saw no way to extricate himself
from debt, and retain his position in the army. For nine months he had
been in secret correspondence with British officers in New York. His
pride was iiow wounded, his vindictive spirit was aroused, and he resolved
to sell his country for gold and military rank. He opened a correspon-
dence in a disguised hand, and in commercial phrase, with Major John
Andre, the young and highly accomplished adjutant-general of the
British army.

How far Mrs. Arnold (who had been quite intimate with Major Andre
in Philadelphia, and had kept up an epistolary correspondence with him
after the British army had left that city) was implicated in these treason-
able communications we shall never know. Justice compels us to say that
there is no evidence of her having had any knowledge of the transaction
until the explosion of the plot at Beverly already mentioned.

Arnold's deportment now suddenly changed. For a long time he had
been sullen and indifferent; now his patriotism glowed with all the
apparent ai'dour of his earlier career. Hitherto he had pleaded the bad
state of his wounds as an excuse for inaction ; now they healed rapidly.
He appeared anxious to join his old companions in arms ; and to General
Schuyler, and other influential men, then in Congress, he expressed an
ardent desire to be in the camp or in the field. They believed him to be
sincere, and rejoiced. They wrote cheering letters to Washington on the
subject ; and, pursuant to Arnold's intimation, they suggested the pro-

THE HUDSON.

291

priety of appointing him to the command of West Point, the most im-
portant post in the cp:^.ntry. Arnold visited "Washington's camp at the
same time, and, in a modest way, expressed a desire to have a command
like that of West Point, as his wounds would not permit him to perform
very active 8er^'ieo on horsehack.

The change surprised "Washington, yet he was unsuspicious of wrong.
He gave Arnold the command of " "West Point and its dependencies,"
and furnished him with written instructions on the 3rd of August, 1780.
Then it was that Arnold made his head-quarters at Beverly, and worked
vigorously for the consummation of his treasonable designs. There he
was joined by his wife and infant son. He at once communicated, in his
disguised writing and commercial phraseology, under the signature of
Gtistavus, his plan to Sir Henry Clinton, through Major Andre, whom he
addressed as "John Anderson." That plan we have already alluded to.
Sir Henry was delighted with it, and eagerly sought to carry it out. He
was not yet fully aware of the real character behind " Gustavus," although
for several months he had suspected it to be General Arnold. "Unwilling
to proceed further upon uncertainties, he proposed sending an officer to
some point near the America^ lines, who should have a personal interview
with his correspondent. ' austavus" consented, stipulating, however,
that the messenger from Clinton should be Major Andre, his adjutant-
general.

Arnold and Andre agreed to meet at Dobbs's Ferry, twenty-two miles
above New York, upon what was then known as neutral ground. The
British water-guard prevented the approach of Arnold. Sir Henry, anxious
to complete the arrangement, and to execute the plan, sent the Vulture
sloop of war up the river as far as Tarry Town, with Colonel P.obinson,
the owner of Beverly, who managed to communicate with Arnold. A
meeting of Arnold and Andro was arranged. On the morning of the
20th of August, the latter officer left New York, proceeded by land to
Dobbs's Ferry, and from thence to the Vulture, where it was expected the
traitor would meet him that night. The wily general avoided the great
danger. He repaired to the house of Joshua Hett Smith, a brother to the
Tory chief justice of New York, and employed him to go to the Vulture
at night, and bring a gentleman to the western shore of the Hudson.

292

THE HUDSON.

There was delay, and Smith did not make the voyage until the night of
the 2l8t, after the moon had gone behind the high hills in the west.
With muffled oars he paddled noiselessly out of Haverstraw Creek, and,
at little past midnight, reached the Vulture. It was a serene^ night, not
a ripple was upon the bosom of the river. Not a word was spoken. The

MEETIXO-l'LACJi OF AKDUK A>D AB\OI>I).

bout came alongside, with a concerted signal, and received Sir Henry's
representative. Andre was dressed in his scarlet uniform, but all was
concealed by a long blue surtout, buttoned to the chin. He was conveyed
to an estuary at tho foot of Long Clove Mountain, a little below the

THE HUDSON.

293

Village of Haverstraw. Smith led the officer to a thicket near the shore,
and then, in a low whisper, introduced "John Anderson " to "Gustavus,"
who acknowledged himself to be Mujor-General Arnold, of the Continental
Army. There, in the deep shadows of night, concealed from human cogni-
zance, Avith no witnesses but the stars above them, they discussed the
dark plans of treason, and plotted the utter ruin of the Kepublican cause.
The faint harbingers of day began to appear in the east, and yet the con-
ference was earnest and unfinished. Smith came and urged the necessity
of. haste to prevent discoveiy. Much was yet to be done. Arnold had
expected a protracted interview, and had brought two horses with him.
While the morning twilight was yet dim, they mounted and started for
Smith's house. They had not proceeded far when the voice of a sentinel
challenged them, and Andre found himself entering the American lines.
He paused, for within them he would be a spy. Arnold assured him by
promises of safety ; and before sunrise they were at Smith's house, on
what has since been known as Treason Hill. At that moment the sound
of a cannon came booming over Haverstraw Bay from the eastern shore ;
and within twenty minutes the Vulture was seen dropping down the river,
to avoid the shots of an American gun on Teller's Point. To the amaze-
ment of Andre, she disappeared. Deep inquietude stin-ed his spirit. He
was within the American lines, without flag or pass. If detected, 1 e
would be called a spy — a name which he despised as much as that of
traitor.

At noon the whole plan was arranged. Arnold placed in Andre's pos-
session several papers — fatal papers ! — exjdanatory of the condition of
West Point and its dependencies. Zealous for the interests of his king
and country, Andre, contrary to the explicit orders of Sir Henry Clinton,
received them. He placed Ihem in his stockings, under his feet, at the
suggestion of Arnold, received a pass from the traitor in the event of
his being compelled to return to New York by land, and waited with
great impatience for the approaching night, when he should be taken in
a boat to the Vulture. The remainder of the sad narrative will be re-
peated presently at a more appropriate point in our journey towards
the sea.

Returning from this historical digression, I will recur to the narrative

294

THE HUDSON.

of the events of a winter's day on the Hudson, only to say, that after
sketching the Lighthouse and Fog-hell structure upon Stony Point, I
hastened to the river, resumed my skates, and at twilight anived at
Peck's Kill, in time to take the railway-cur for home. I had experienced
a tedious but interesting day. The remembrance of it is far more
delightful than was its endurance.

CHAPTER XVI.

iKE winter -was mild and constant. No special severity

marked its dealings, yet it made no deviations in that

respect from the usual course of the season sufficient to

mark it as an innovator. Its breath chilled the waters

early, and for several weeks the Hudson was bridged

\M ' with strong ice, from the wilderness almost to the sea. Mean-

fHili while the whole country was covered with a thick mantle of

snow. Skaters, ice-boats, and sleighs traversed the smooth

surface of the river with perfect safety, as far down as Peek's

Kill Bay, and the counties upon its borders, separated by its flood in

summer, were joined by the solid ice, that offered a medium for pleasant

intercourse during the short and dreary days of winter.

Valentine's Day came — the day in England traditionally associated
with the wooing of birds and lovers, and when the crc sus and the daffodil
proclaim the approach of spring. But here the birds and the early
flowers were unseen ; the sceptre of the frost liing was yet all-potent.
The blue bird, the robin, and the swallow, our earliest feathered visitors
from the south, yet lingered in their southern homes. Soon the clouds
gathered and came down in warm and gentle rain ; the deep snows of
northern New York melted rapidly, and the Upper Hudson and the
Mohawk poured out a mighty flood that spread over the valleys, submerged
■ town wharves, and burst the ribs of ice yet thick and compact. Down
came the turbid waters whose attrition below, working with the wann
sun above, loosened the icy chains that for seventy days had held the
Hudson in bondage, and towards the close of February great masses of
the shivered fetters were moving with the ebb and flow of the tide. The
snow dibappeared, the buds swelled, and, to the delight of all, one
beautiful morning, when even the dew was tot congealed, the blue birds,
first harbingers of approaching summer, were heard gaily singing in the

296

THE HUDSON.

trees and hedges. It was a welcome and delightful invitation to the
fields and waters, and I hastened to the lower borders of the Highland
region to resume my pen and pencil sketches of the Hudson from the
wilderness to the sea.

The air was as balmy as May on the evening of my arrival at Sing
Sing, on the eastern bank of the Hudson, where the State of New York
has a large penitentiary for men and women. I strolled up the steep
and winding street to the heart of the village, and took lodgings for the

si.i icii iiiri::G on ti:e nrrsox.

night. The sun was yet two hours above the horizon. 1 went out
immediately upon a short tour of observation, and found ample compen-
sation for the toil occasioned by the hilly pathways traversed.

Sing Sing is a very pleasant village, of almost four thousand inhabitants.
It lies upon a rudely broken siope of hills, that rise about one hundred
and eighty feet above the river, and overlook Tappan Bay,* or Tappaanse
Zee, as the early Dutch settlers julled an expansion of the Hudson,

* Tap-pan was the name of a MoheRon tribe that inhabited the cnstcrn shores of the bay.

THE HUDSON.

297

extending from Teller's or Croton Point on the north, to the northern
bluff of the Palisades near Piermont. The origin of the name is to be
found in the word Sint-sinck, the title of a powerful clan of the Mohegan

CROTON AQUEDUCT AT SISO SINO.

c river Indians, who called this spot Os-sin-inff, from ossin, a stone, and
ing, a place — stony place. A very appropriate name. The land in this
vicinity, first parted •v^ith 1 y the Indians, was granted to Frederick

a Q

298

THE HUDSON,

Philipsc (who owned a large manorial estate along the Hudson),
in 1C85.

Passing through the upper portion of the village of Sing Sing is a
wild, picturesque lavinc, lined with evergioen trees, with sides so rugged
that the works of man have only here and there found lodgment. Through
it flows the Kill, as the Dutch called it, or Sint-sinck hrook, which rises
among the hills east of the village, and falls into the Hudson after a
succession of prettj apids and cascades. Ovei it the waters of the
Croton river pass on their way to supply the city of New York with a
healchful beverage. Their channel is of heavy masonry, here lying upon
an elliptical arch of hewn granite, of eighty-eight feet span, *ts keystone
more than seventy feet from the waters 'of the brook under it. This
great aqueduct will be more fully considered presently.

On the southern borders of the village of Sing Sing u a rough group
of small hills, called collectively Mount Pleasant. They are formed of
dolomitic, or white coarse-grained marble, of excellent quality and
almost inexhaustible quantity, cropping out from a thin soil in many
places. At the foot of Mount Pleasant, on the shore of the river, is a
large prison for men, with a number of workshops and other buildings,
belonging to the State of New York. A little way up the slope is the
prison for women, a very neat and substantial building, with a fine
colonnade on the ri.er front. These prisons were built by convicts about
thirty years ago, when there were two establishments of the kind in the
State, one in the city of New York, the other at AuLurn, in the interior.
A new system of prison discipline had been adopted. Instead of the old
system of indolent, solitary confinement, the workhouse feature was
combined with incarceration in separate cells at night. They were made
to work diligently all day, but in perfect silence, no recognition by word,
look, or gesture, being allo^\ed among them. The adoption of this
system, in 1823, rendered the prison accommodation insufficient, and a
new establishment was authorised in 1824. Mount Pleasant, near Sing
Sing, -^as purchased, and in May, 1826, Captain Lynds, a farm agent of
the Auburn prison, proceeded with one hundred felons from that estab-
lishment to erect the new penitentiary. Thoy quarried and wrought
diligently among the marble rocks at Mount Pleasant, and the prison for

\- I

THE HUDSON.

299

men was completed in 1829, when the convicts in the old State prisovi in
the city of New York were removed to it. It had eight hundred cells,
but these were found to be too few, and in 1831 another story was added
to the building, and with it two hundred more cells, making one
thousand in all, the present number. More are needed, for the number
of convicts in the men's prison, at the beginning of 1861, was a little
more thaii thirteen hundred. In the prison for women there were only

STATE PBISOS AT SINO SINO.

one hundred cells, while the number of convicts was one hundred and
fifty at that time.

The ground occupied by the prisons is about ten feet above high-water
mark. The main building, in which arc the cells, is four hundred and
eighty feet in length, forty-four feet in width, and five stories in height.
Between the r atside walls and the cells there is a space of about twelve
feet, open from floor to roof. A part of it is occupied by a scries of

300

THE HUDSON.

jjalleries, there being a row of one hundred cells to each story on both
fronts, and backing each other. Between the prison and the river are
the several workshops, in which various trades are carried on. In front
of the prison for women is the guard-house, where arms and instructions
arc given out to thirty-one guardsmen every morning. Between the
guard-house and the prison the Hudson Eiver Eailway passes, partly
through two tunnels and a deep trench. Upon the highest points of
Mount Pleasant are guard-houses, which overlook the quarries and other
places of industrial operations.

UTATK 1>BIS0K£B8.

It was just at sunset when I finished my tkotch of the prisons and
workshops. A large portion of Tappan Bay, and the range of high hills
upon its western shore, were then immersed in a thin purple mist, so
frequently seen in this region on balmy afternoons in the spring and
autumn. The prison bell rang as I was turning to leave the scene, and
Boon a troop of convicts, dressed in the felon's garb, and accompanied by
overseers, was marched towards the prison and taken to their cells, there
to bo fed and locked up for the night. Their costume consists of a short

THE HUDSON.

301

coat, vest, pantaloons, and cap, made of white kerseymere cloth, broadly
striped with hlack. The stripes pass diound the arms and legs, but are
perpendicular upon the body of the coat.

I visited the prisons early the following rooming, in company with one
of the officers. "We first went through that in which the women are
kept, and I was surprised at the absence of aspects of crime in the
appearance of most of the convicts. The jcells were all open, and many
of them displayed evidences of taste and sentiment, hardly to be
suspected in criminals. Pancy needlework, cheap pictures, and other
ornaments, gave some of the cells an appearance of comfort ; but the
wretchedly narrow spi ees into which, in several instances, two of the
convicts are placed together at night, because of a want of more cells,
dispelled tht temporary illusion that prison life was not so very uncomfort-
able after all. The household drudgery and cookery wera performed by
the convicts, chiefly by the coloured ones, and a large number were
employed in binding hats that are manufactured in the men's prison.
They sat in a series of rows, under the eyes of female overseers, silent,
yet not very sad. Most of them were young, many of them interesting
and innocent in their appearance, and two or three really beautiful. The
crime of a majority of them was grand larceny.

There was one woman there, six-and-thirty years of age, whose case
was a sad one. She seemed to have been, thiuugh life, the victim of
others' crimes, and doomed to suffer more for the sins of others than for
her own. Tears ago, a friend of the writer arrived at New York at an
early hour one morning, and was led by curiosity to the police office,
where persons arrested by watchmen during the niglit were disposed of
at dawn. Whilst there, a beautiful young girl, shrinking from public
gaze, and weeping as if her heart was breaking, was brought in. When
her turn for examination came, the justice, too accustomed to the sight of
vicious persons to exercise much compassion, accosted her rudely, she
having been picked up as a street wanderer, and accused of vagrancy.
She told a simple, touching story of her wrongs and misery. Only a
month before, she had been the innocent daughter of loving parents in
Connecticut. She came to the metropolis to visit an aunt, whose vicious
son invited her to attend him to the theatre. She went without

302

THE HUDSON.

suspicion, took some refreshments which he offered her at the play,
became oblivious withiu half an hour after partaking of the spiced wine
which the young villain had drugged, and before morning found herself
covered with shame in a strange house in a strange part of the city.
Utterly cast down, she avoided both aunt and parents. She was soon
cast away by her wicked cousin, and on the night of her arrest was
wandering alone, without shelter or hope. She was compelled to bow to
her fate, whilst the law, at that time, could not touch ■'he author of her
degradation, who further wronged her by foulest slander, to palliate his
own wickedness. Justice was not then so kindly disposed towards the
eiTing and unfortunate as now. There was no Magdalen refuge for her,
and the magistrate, with almost brutal roughness, reproached her, and
sent her to " the Island "* for six months as a vagrant. The gentleman
who witnessed this scene became possessed of her subsequent history.

Associated with the vile, her degradation was complete, while her
innate virtue struggled for existence. She was an outcast at the age of
seventeen. Parental affection, yielding o the stem demands of social
ethics, sought not to rescue or reform the child. She had " disgraced
her family," and that offence was sufficient to win for her an eternal
exile. When the law was satisfied, she went forth with virtuous resolve?,
and sought a livelihood through menial service. Twice she was pointed
at as a Magdalen and convict, and sought refuge from recognition in
other places. At length a gleam of hope beamed upon her. She was
wooed by a man who seemed honest and true, who had been charmed by
her beauty. They were married. She was again allied Trith human
sympathy, and was happy. Years passed by. A cloud appeared. She
suspected her husband to be in league with burglars and counterfeiters.
She accused him inquiringly, and he confessed his guilt. She pleaded
with him most tenderly, for the sake of herself and their three babes, to
abandon his course of life. Her words were ineffectual. His vile
associates became bold. His house became the receptacle of burglars'
plunder, and the head-quarters of counterfeiting. To her the world was
shut. She had sympathy only with her husband and children. She had

Blackwell's laland, iu the East Hiver, which will be noticed hereafter.

THE HUDSON.

303

not courage to leave the loathed atmosphere of crime that filled her
dwelling, and encounter again the blasts of a selfish world. She became
a passive participator in guilt. Detection soon followed transgression.
She was arraigned as an accomplice of her husband and his associates in
counterfeiting. The proof was clear, and conviction followed. Three
years before my visit she had been sent to the state prison for five years,
and her husband for ten years. They have never met since hearing their
sentence. Their babes were taken to the almshouse, and that crushed,
woman sat desolate within the prison walls. Meekly she performed her
daily duties. There was a sweet sadness in her pale face. She was not
a criminal in the eye of Divdne justice ; she was a victim to bo pitied —
the wreck of an innocent and beautiful girl. Surely there must be some-
thing radically wrong in the constitution of our society, that permits
tender flowers to be thus blasted and thus neglected, and become like
worthless weeds, to be trampled upon and forgotten.

In the prison for men, and in the woi'kshops, everything is carried on
with the most perfect order ; every kind of labour, the meals, the religious
exercises in the chapel, are aU conducted according to the most rigid
rules. The discipline is consequently quite perfect. Reformation, not
merely punishment, is the great aim, and the history of the prison attests
the success of the effort. Severe punishments are becoming more and more
rare, and the terrible Shower Bath, which has been so justly condemned by
the humane, is now seldom used, and then in the presence of the prison
physician. Only when all other means for forcing obedience have failed,
is this horrid punishment inflicted. It is admitted, I believe, that the
Mount Pleasant or Sing Sing prison is one of the best conducted
penitentiaries in the world.

Or. returning to the village across the fields northward of Mount
Pleasant, I obtained a full view of Teller's or Croton Point, which divides
Tappan from Haverstraw Bay. It is almost two miles in length, and was
called Se-nas-qtia by the Indians, and by the English, Sarah's Point, in
honour of Sarah, wife of William Teller, who purchased it of the Indians
for a barrel of rum and twelve blankets. It was called Teller's Point
until within a few years, when the name of Croton was given to it. Near
its extremity, within a pleasant, embowered lawn, stood the Italian villa

of E. T. TJnderhill, M.D., who was sixth in descent from the famous
Captain Underhill, a leader in the Indian wars of New England. The
Point was owned by himself and brother, both of whom had extensive
vineyards and luxuriant orchards. They had about eij^hty acres covered
with the Isabella and Catawba grape vine, sixty of which belonged to the
doctor. They also raised fine apples and melons in great abundance.
From our point of view, near Sing Sing landing, the village of Haverstraw
is seen in the vista between Croton Point and the High Torn Mountain on
the left.

CROTON POIMT, FBOM SING SING.

It was now the first day of March, and very warm ; the surface of the
river was unruffled by a breeze. Knowing how boisterous and blustering
this first spring month generally is, I took advantage of the fine weather,
and crossed Tappan Bay to Rockland Lake village (formerly Slaughter's
Landing), opposite Sing Sing, the most extensive ice-station on the river.
After considerable delay, I procured a boat and oarsman — the former very
leaky, and the latter very accommodating. The bay is here between two
and three miles wide. We passed a few masses of floating ice and some

THE HUDSON.

)05

sailing vessels, aud at little past noon landed at llockland,- where the
Knickerbocker Ice Company had a wharf and barges, and a largo inclined-
plane railway, down which ice, brought from the adjacent lake, was sent
to the vessels in the river.

ROCKLAND, OU SLAUGUTEKER"S LANDING.

It w»s a weary way up the steep shore to the village and the lake, on
the borders of a high and well-cultivated valley, half a mile from the river.
This is the famous llockland Lake, whose congealed waters have been so

n n

300

THE HUDSON.

long familiar to the thirsty dwellers in the mctropolig. It is a lovely
sheet of water, one hundred and fifty feet above the river. On its south-
eastern borders, excepting where the village and ice-houses skirt it, arc
steep, rugged shores, "Westward, a fertile country stretches away many
a mile to rough hills and blue mountains. The lake is an in-ogular ellipse
in form, half a mile in length, and three-fourths of a mile at its greatest
width, and covers about five hundred acros. It is supplied by springs in
its own bosom, and clear mountain brooks, and forms the head waters of
the Hackensack river, which flows through New Jersey, and reaches the

BOC'KLAM> LAKK.

salt water in Xewark Eay. Near its outlet, upon a grassy peninsula, is
the residence of Moses G. Leonard, Esq., seen in the picture ; and in the
distance, from our point of view, is seen the peak of the great Tom
Mountain, back of Haverstraw. Along the eastern margin of the lake
were extensive buildings for the storeage of ice in winter, at which time
a thousand men were sometimes employed. The crop averaged nearly
two hundred thousand tons a-year ; and during the warm season, one
hundred men were employed in conveying it to the river, and fifteen

THE UUDSON.

307

barges were used in transporting it to New York, for distribution there,
and exportation.

"We crossed the bay to Croton Point, visited the villa and vineyards of

Xf-:.

\ - , .H

MOUTH OF THE CROTOX.

Doctor Underbill, and then rowed up Croton Bay to the mouth of the
river, passing, on our way, under the drawbridge of the Hudson River
Railway. It was late in the afternoon. There was a remarkable

,1.

308

THE HUP=!ON.

stillness and dreamy repose in the atmosphere, and we glided almost
noiselessly up the bay, in company with two or three duck-hunters, in
their little cockles. The tide was ebbing, and as wo approached the
mouth of the Croton, the current became more and more rapid, until wo
found ourselves in a shallow rift abreast the Van Cortlandt Manor House,
unable to proceed, after vain efforts of our united strength to stem the
current, the boatman landed me on the Bouthera shore of the stream.
After satisfying his extortionate demand of about the price of three fares
for his services, I dismissed him, with a strong desire never again to fall
into his hands ; and then clambered up the rough bank by the margin of
a brook, and made my way to the " post road," a most picturesque highway
along the lofty banks of the Croton. "When near the ** High Bridge," at
the old head of boat navigation, I obtained a most interesting view of the
Mouth of the Croton, including Dover Kill Island near, the railway-
bridge in the distance, and the high hills on the western shore of the
Hudson in the extreme distance. The scenery thereabout is both
picturesque and beautiful, and such is its character to the very sources
of this famous stream eastward of the Pawling Mountains, whose clear
waters supply the city of New York with wholesome beverage.

The ancient name of the Croton was ITtich-a-tcan, signifying a large
and swift current. The Dutch called it Croton in memory of an Indian
Sachem of that name, whose habitation was on the northern border of the
bay, near the neck, a little below the mouth of the river. Its sources are
among the hills of Putnam and Duchess, and it has five considerable
tributaries, all of mountain birth. "When the authorities of the city of
New York were seeking sources of ample supply of pure water, their
attention was early called to this stream. Commissioners reported in
favour of its use, though far away ; and in May, 1837, the construction of
an aqueduct from a point six miles from its mouth to the metropolis was
begun. At the head of the aqueduct a dam was constructed, for the
purpose of forming a fountain reservoir. At the beginning of 1841 a
flood, produced by a protracted rain-storm and melting snows, swept
away the dam, and can-icd Avith it, riverward, a quantity of earth and
gravel, sufficient to half fill the beautiful Croton Bay. The dam was
immediately rebuilt, at greater altitude, and a lake was produced, almost

THE HUDSON.

309

six miles in length, containing about 500,000,000 gallons. It is 166 feet
above mean tide- water at New York, and pours into the aqueduct from
40,000,000 to 50,000,000 gallons every twenty-four hcurs. Not having
time to visit the fountain reservoir, I have availed myself of tho pencil
services of a friend, in giving a sketch of tho dam from a point just
below it.

The Croton aqueduct .•nn': parallel with the Hudson, at the mean
distance of half a mile from n lUroughout its entire length. Its course is

CROTOX DAM.

marked by culverts and arches of solid masonry, and its line may bo
observed at a distance by white stono towers, about fifteen feet in height,
placed at intervals of a mile. These arc ventilators of the aqueduct ;
some of them are quite ornamental, as in the case of the one at Sing Sing,
others are simple round towers, and every third one has a square base,
with a door by which a person may enter the aqueduct. At the top of
each is an iron screen, to prevent substances from being cast into the

310

THE HUDSON.

ventilators. (Jur little group shows the diflfcrcnt forms of these towers,
which present a feature in the landscape on the eastern shore of the river,
to voyagers on the Hudson. This great work was ccmpleted, and the
water opened to the use of the inhabitants of New York, in the autumn
of 1842. Its cost was about $12,000,000, We chall meet with it
frequently iu our future tour towards the city.

The " High Bridge " over the Croton, at the old head of the navigation,
was a wooden, rickety structure, destined soon to fall in disuse and
absolute decay, because of a substantial new bridge, then being

VENTILATOBS.

constructed across the head of the bay, almost a mile below, by which the
route from Croton to Sing Sing would be much shortened. Hero was the
" Cioton Bridge" of revolutionary times, frequently mentioned in
connection with mililary movements betA\een Now York and the High-
lands ; and here is now the scene of most important experiments in the
production of malleable iron from the ore, by a simple process, which, if
successful, would produce a marked change iu the iron manufacture. It
is a process of deoxidizing iron ore in a heated hollow screw, out of wlii a,
when the process is cortipleted, it drops into the furnace, avoids all fluxes,
and comes out "blooms" of the finest iron. Mr. llogers, the inventor,

claimed that by this process there would be a saving of from eight to
twelve dollars a ton in the production of iron — a matter of great
importance to such isolated districts as that of tlio Adirondack works at
the sources of the Hudson already mentioned. It was from Bayley's
rolling millj at the foot of the rapids in he Croton, just above the old
High Bridge, where these experiments were going on, that I made the
sketch of that dilapidated affidr, just at sunset.

Crossing the bridge, I strolled down the right bank of the Croton, along

UKill liKIUliU OYHH TlIU CUOTUiN.

the higl. margin of the stream, to the Van Cortlandt Manor House,
pu^-'ing the old Ferry House on the way, where a party of New York
levie.^ under Captain Daniel Williams, were surprised by some British
horsemei. in the winter of 1782. At the entrance gate to the mansion
grounds, at twilight, I met Colonel Pierre Van Cortlandt, the present
proprietor, and accepted his cordial invitation to partake of the hospitalities
of his house for the night.

The Van Cortlandt Manor House stands near the shore of Croton Bay.
It was erected r.t the beginning of tho last century, by John Van

Cortlandt, eldest son of the first lord of the manor, and is now more than
one hundred and fifty years old. Orloff Stevenson Van Cortlandt, father
of the first proprietor of this estate, was a lineal descendant of the Dukes
of Courland, :n Eussia. His ancestors emigrated to Holland, when
deprived of the Duchy of Courland. The family name was Stevens, or
Stevenson, van (or from) Courland. They adopted the latter as a
surname, the true orthography of which, in Dutch, is Korte (short), and

VAK COiiT;

itIANOB HOUSE.

landt (land), a term expressing the fotm of the ancient Duchy of Courland.
Orloff emigrated to America, and settled in New Amsterdam (New York),
and in 1697 his son Stephen purchased the large c&tatc on the Hudson,
afterwards known as the Van Cortlandt Manor. By intermarriages, the
Van Cortlandts are connected with nearly all of the leading families of
New York — the Schuylers, Beekraans, Van Renselacrs, Dc Peysters, De
Lancys, Bayards, &c. The Mnnor House was built of heavy stone ; and

the thick walls were pierced with loopholes for musketry to be used in
defence against the Indians. It has been somewhat changed in aspect,
by covering the round stone with stucco. Its front, graced by a pleasant
lawn, commands an extensive view of the bay, and of the Hudson beyond.
In that bay, under the shelter of Croton Point, Hendrick Hudson
anchored the Half -Moon, on the evening of the first of October, 1609;
and such a resort were these waters for canvas-back ducks, and other
water-fowl, that, as early as 1G83, Governor Dongan came there to enjoy
the sport of fowling. There, too, great quantities of shad were caught.
But its glory is departed. The flood of 1841, that swept away the Croton
Dam, almost filled the bay with earth ; it is accumulating there every
hour; and, in the course of a few years, the Van Cortlandt estate will
have many acres .f fine meadow land added to it, where once large vessels
might ride at anchor.

©\,-»

CHAPTER XVII.

HE Van Cortlandt mansion, of which a sketch appears
in the last Chapter, is clustered with historic associa-
tions. It was the summer home of the master, whose
town residence was a stately one for the colonial
times. There, at early, as well as at later, periods,
the wealthy and the high-born of the land frequently assembled
as guests. From its broad piazza the famous "Whitefield preached
to a large audience upon the lawn. There, in 1774, Governor
Tryon, and Edmund Fanning, his secretary, came on a mission
of bribery to General Van Cortlandt, who had espoused the cause of the
colonists. They offered him lands and titles for his allegiance to the
crown, but they were refused. Under that roof the illustrious Washington
was a frequent guest when the army Avas in that vicinity ; and the parlour
Avas once honoured by the presence of the immortal Franklin. There
may be seen many mementoes of the past : the horns of a stag killed on
the manor, when deer ran wild there ; the buttons from the yager coat
worn by one of the captors of Andre ; a box made of the wood of the
Mideavour, the ship in which Cook navigated the globe, et cetera.

On the morning after my arrival, accompanied by Mrs. Van Cortlandt,
I rode to the village of Croton, a mile distant, to visit one of twin sisters,
who were ninety years old in August, I860.''* On our way we turned
iuto the cemetery of the Van Cortlandt family, upon a beautiful point of
land, commanding an extensive view of the Hudson southward. A little
west of the cemetery, at the neck of land which connects Croton Point
with the main, stood the old fort or castle of Kitch-a-wan, caid to have
been one of the most ancient Indian fortresses south of the Highlands.
It was built by tlie Sachem Croton, when he assembled his parties for

* Tliese Bisters were living at the beginning of ISlii).

THE HUDSON.

315

hunting or war. In a beautiful nook, a little east of the site of the fort,
on the borders of Haunted Hollow, is the Kitch-a-tcan burying-ground.
Around this locality hovers the memory of many a weird story of the
early times, when the superstitious people believed that they often saw,
in the groves and glens there, the forms of the departed red men. They
called them the Walking Sachems of Teller's Point.

We visited one of the twin sisters at Croton, Mrs. Miriam Williams.
Her memory of long-past events seemed very faithful, but the mind of
her sister had almost perished with age. They had both lived in that
vicinity since their birth, having married and settled there in early life.
Mrs. Williams had a perfect recollection of Washington, when he was
quartered with the army near Verplanck's Point. On one occasion, she
said, he dismounted in front of her father's house, and asked for some
food. As he entered, the twins were standing near the door. Placing
his hands upon their heads, he said, "You are as alike as two eggs. May
you have long life." He entered with her father, and the chikhen peeped
curiously in at the door. A morsel of food and a cup of cold water was
placed upon the table, when Washington stepped forward, laid his hand
upon the oard, closed his eyes, and reverently asked a blessing, their
father having, meanwhile, raised his hat from his head. "And here,"
said Mrs. Williams, pointing to a small oval table near her, " is the very
table at which that good man asked a blessing."

From the little village of Croton, or Collaberg Landing, I rode to the
dwelling of a friend (James Cockrott, Esq.), about two miles northward,
passing on the way tho old house of Tellar (now Moodie), whore the
incident just related occurred. Accompanied by Mr. Cockroft and his
neighbour, J. W. Frost, Esq. , I climbed to the summit of Prickly Pear
Hill (so called from the fact that a species of cactus, called Prickly Pear,
grows there abundantly), almost five hundred feet above the river, from
which may be obtained the most extensive and interesting views in all
that region. From no point on the Hudson can be seen, at a glance, such
a cluster of historic loca^'ties, as from this eminence. Here Washington
was encamped in 1782, and made this pinnacle his chief observatory. At
one sweep of the vision may be seen the lofty ranges of the Highlands,
and the Fish Kill Mountains, with all the intervening con vy adjacent

316

THE HUDSON.

to Peek's Kill, Verplanck's and Stony Points, the theatres of important
military events during the war for independence; Haverstraw, where
Arnold and Andre had their conference ; Teller's Point, off which the
Vulture lay, and from which she receiyed a cannonading that drove her
down the river ; King's Ferry, where Andre crossed the Hudson ; the
place of Pine's Bridge on the Croton, where he was suspected ; Tarrytown,
where he was captured, and the long wharf of Piermont, near Tappan,
where he was executed. All of these, with the villages on the eastern

VIKW I'liOM JHICKLV I'tAU JilLi-.

shore of the Hudson, from Cruger's to York Island, may be seen from
this hill. Before it lies Haverstraw Bay, the widest expanse of the
Hudson, with all its historic and legendary associations, which limited
space forbids us to portray. Here the fresh and salt water usually con-
tend most equally for the mastery; and Lcre the porpoise,* a sea- water

• Porpoise communis; ppiiiia Phocccna, supposed to bo tlio Turs.o of Pliny. It is from four to eight
feet in leiKttli, nearly of a black colour above, and whitish beneath. Tlicy aie found in all our northern
Beas and bays. They swim in shoals, and pursue other fishes up bays and rivers, with the avidity of
hounds after pame. In fine weather they leap, roll, and tumble, in great glee, especially in lato spring
time. They yield a very fine oil.

THE HUDSON.

31:

fish, is often seen in large numbers, sporting in the summer sun. Hero,
in the spring, vast numbers of shad arc caught while on their way to
spawning places in fresh-wptcr coves ; and here, at all seasons, most
delicious fisli may be taken in great abundance. All things considered,
this is one of the most interesting points for a summer residence to be
found on the Hudson.

The highways, on land and water, from the Croton to the Spuyten
Duyvil Creek, at the head of York Island, pass through exceedingly
beautiful and picturesque scenery, made classical to the Ameiican mind

iiiK I'oiii'oisi;,

because of most interesting historical associations. On the west side of
the Hudson, seen by the traveller on road, railway, or river, is a bold
mountain shore, having a few cultivated slopes and pleasant villages as
fur down as the lower extremity of Tappan I3ay. From that point there
are presented, for about twenty miles southward, perpendicular walls of
rock, with bases in buttress form, called the Palisades, fronting imme-
diately on, and rising several hundred feet above, the river. On the east
the voyager sees a beautiful, high, undulating coiiutry, well cultivated,
and sprinkled with villages and hamlets.

The drive from Sing Sing to King's Bridge at Spuyten Duyvil Creek,
along the old post-road, is attractive at all seasons of the year, but more
especially in spring and early summer, when the trees are in leaf, because
of the ever-varying aspects of the landscape. Fine mansions and villa
residences are seen on every side, where, only a few years ago, good taste
was continually offended by uncouth farmhouses, built for utility only.

CiKAEEAL WAKU'S MA.NS1U>.

without a single thouglit of harmony or beauty. Now all is changed,
and the eye is as continually pleased.

One of the finest of the older country seats in this region was the
mansion of General Aaron Ward, overlooking the village of Sing Sing,
and commanding a very extensive view of the Hudson and its distant
shores. General Ward is one of the most distinguished men in Westchester

THE HUDSON.

319

County, and is desccncled from an early settler in that region. He was
an officer in the American army during tlic war with Great Britain in
1812 — 15, and at its close conducted the first detachment of the British
prisoners from the States to Canada. LaAv was his chosen profession,
and in 1825 he became a law-maker, by election to the Lower House of
the National Congress. He was an active and efficient worker, and the
satisfaction of his constituency was certified by their retaining him as
their representative, by re-election, twelve out of eigliteen consecutive
years. He assisted in framing the present constitution of the State of
New York, in 1846, and since then has declined invitations to public
service. During the years 1859 and 1860, he visited Egypt and the
Holy Land. His narrative of his journey, published under the title of
" Around the Pyramids," is considered one of the most truthful produc-
tions of its kind from the pen of an American. Sing Sing owes much to
General "Ward's enterprise and public spirit, and he is sincerely honoured
and beloved in the community where he resides.

Pleasant residences — some embowered, others standing out in the
bright sunlight near groves and woods — delight the eye more and more as
w. approach the large village of Tarrytown, twenty-seven miles from
New York. Of these the most conspicuous between the little hamlet of
Scarborough, below Sing Sing and Tarrytown, is that of Mr. Aspinwall,
a wealthy New York merchant. Near it was the residence of General
James Watson Webb, then the veteran editor and proprietor of the New
York Courier and Inquirer, and well known, personally, and by reputation,
in both hemispheres as a gentleman of rare abilities as a journalist. A'
the beginning of the Civil "War, General "Webb was appointed resident
minister at the court of Pedro II., emperor of Brazil, in which position
he continued during the entire struggle.

Approaching Tarrytown, we observe upon the left of the highway an
already populous cemetery, covering the crown and slopes of a gentle hill.
Near its base is an ancient church, and a little beyond it flows a clear
stream of water, which the Indians called Po-can-te-co, signifying a "run
between two hills." It makes its way in a swift current from the back
country, between a hundred hills, presenting a thousand scenes of
singular beauty in its course. The Dutch, named it Slaeperigh Haven

320

THE HUDSON.

Kill, or Sleepy Haven Creek, and the valley in the vicinity of the old
church, through which it flowed, Slaeperigh IIol, or Sleepy Hollow, the
scene of Washington Irving's famous legend of that name.

The little old church is a curiosity. It was huilt, says an inscription
upon a small marble tablet on its front, by "Frederic Philips and
Catharine Van Cortland, his wife, in 1G99," and is the oldest church
edifice existing in the State of New York. It was built of brick and
stone, the former imported from Holland for the purpose. Over its little

AKCIEKI DUTCH C'UUKCU.

spire still turns the flag-shaped vane of iron, in which is cut the monogram
of its founder (VF in combination, his name being spelt in Dutch,
Vediyck Flypsen) ; and in the little tower hangs tho ancient bell,
bearing the inscription in Latin, "7/" God le for tis, tvlio can he against us?
1685." The pulpit and communion table were also imported from
Holland. The former was long since destroyed by the ic(»noclastic hand
of "improvement."

At this quiet old church is the opening of Sleepy Hollow, upon the
shores of tho Hudson, and near it is a rustic bridge that crosses the

THE HUDSON.

321

Po-can-te-co, a little below the one made famous in Irving's legend by an
amusing incident.* In this vicinity, according to the legend, Ichabod

SLEEl'V UOI.I-OW liKIIHrE.

Crane, a Connecticut schoolmaster, instructed "tough, wrong-headed,

* " Over a rteep, black part of tlic stream, not fat- fimn the church," says ^Ir. Irvintr, in his " Lepenrt
of .Sleepy Hollow," "was funnerly thrown a wooden bridge ; the road that led to it, and the bridge
itself, were thickly shaded by overhanging trees, which cast a gloom about it even in the daytime, but
occasioned a fearful dai'kness ut night."

T T

322

THE HUDSON.

broad-skirted, Dutch urchins" in the rudiments of learning. He was
also the singing-master of the neighbourhood. Not far off lived old
Baltus Van Tassel, a well-to-do farmer, whoso house was called WolferVa
Roost. He had a blooming and only daughter named Katrina, and
Ichabod was her tutor in psalmody, training her voice to mingle sweetly
with those of the choir which ho led at Sabbath-day worship in the
Sleepy Hollow Church. Ichabod " had a soft and foolish heart toward
the sex." He fell in love with Katrina. He found a rival in his suit in
stalwart, bony Brom Van Brunt, commonly known as Brom Bones.
Jealousies arose, and the Dutchman resolved to drive the Yankee school-
master from the country.

Strange stories of ghosts in Sleepy Hollow were believed by all, and by
none more implicitly than Ichabod. The chief goblin seen there was
that of a Hessian trooper, whose head had been carried away by a cannon
ball. This spectre was known all over the country as ** The Headless
Horseman of F iy Hollow."

Ichabod w itcd to a social evening party at the house of Van

Tassel. Ho went with alacrity, and borrowed a lean horse called Gun-
powder for tlie jouniey. Brom Bones was also there. "When the
company broke up, Ichabod lingered to have a few words with Katrina.
He then bestrode Gunpowder, and started for home. "When within half
a mile of the old church, a horse and rider, huge, black, and mysterious,
suddenly appeared by his side. The rider was headless, and to the
horror of the pedagogue it was discovered that he carried his head in his
hand, on the pommel of his saddle. Ichabod was half dead with fear.
He urged Gunpowder forward to escape the demon, but in vain. The
headless horseman followed. The walls of the old church appeared in
the dim starlight of the midnight hour. The log bridge, in the deep
sliadows of the trees, was near. " If I can but reach that bridge,"
thought Ichabod, " I shall be safe." Just then he heard the black steed
panting and blowing close behind him ; ho even fancied that he felt his
hot breath. Another convulsive kick in the ribs and old Gunpowder
sprang upon the bridge : ho thundered over the resounding planks ; he
gained the opposite side ; and now Ichabod cast a look beiiind to see if
his pursuer would vanish, according to rule, in a flash of fire and brim-

THE HUDSON.

323

stone. Just then he saw the goblin rising in his stirrups, and in the very
act of huiiing his head at him. Ichabod endeavoured to dodge thr
horrible missile, but too late ; it encountered his cranium with a terril lo
crash ; he was tumbled headlong into the dubt, and Gunpowder, the black
steed, and the goblin rider, passed like a whirlwind. A shattered
pumpkin was found in the road the next day, and Brom Jones not
long afterwards led Katrina Van Tassel to the altar as his bride.
Ichabod was never heard of afterwards. The people always believed he
had been spirited away by the Headless Horseman of Sleepy Hollow",
who, on that occasion, some knowing ones supposed to have been a beiug
no more ghostly than Brom Bones himself.

Let us climb over this stile by the corner of the old church, into the
yard where so many of the pilgrims of earth are sleeping. Here arc
mossy stones with half obliterated epitaphs, marking the graves of many
early settlers, among whom is one, upon whose monumental slab it is
recorded, that Lo lived until he was *' one hundred and three years old,"
and had one hundred and twenty-four children and grandchildren at the
time of his death ! Let us pass on up this narrow winding path, and
cross the almost invisible boundary between the old "graveyard" ami
the new " cemetery." Here, well up towards the summit of the hill near
the " receiving vault," upon a beautiful sunny slope, is an enclosure
made of iron bars and privet hedge, with open gate, inviting entrance.
There in line stand several slabs of white marble, only two feet in height,
at the head of as many oblong hillocks, covered with turf and budding
spring flowers. Upon one of these, near the centre, we read : —

WASHINGTON,

SON OF

WILLIAM AND

SARAH 8. IKVING,

DIED

NOV. 23, 1S59,

AGED 7(5 YEARS 7 MO.

AND 25 DAYS.

This is the grave of the immortal Geoffrey Crayon!* Upon it Ho

* In tile EiiUcoiml C'liurch at Tanylowii, in v.hicli Mr. Irving \vu3 a comiuuiiicaiit for many years, u
small marble tablet has I'ucn placed by the vestry, with an aiiiu-oiiriate inscriiition to his memory.

324

THE HUDSON.

■wreaths of withered flowers, which have been killed by frosts, and buried
by drifts of lately departed snow. These will not long remain, for all
summer long fresh and fragrant ones are laid upon that honoured grave

fM^ni<

lUVINO'S OBAVE.

by fair hands that pluck them from many n neighbouring garden. Here,
at all times, these sweet tributes of affection may be seen, when the trees
are in leaf.

THE HUDSON.

325

This lovely burial spot, from which may be seeu Sleepy Hollo w^ the
anciRut church, the sparkling Avaters of the Po-can-te-co, spreading out
into a little lake above the picturesque old dam at the mill of Castle
Philipse, Sleepy Hollow Haven, Tappan Bay and all its beautiful
surroundings, was chosen long ago by the illustrious author of the
** Sketch-Book," as his final resting-place. Forty years ago, in Birming-
ham, three thousand miles away from the spot where his remains now
repose, and long before he even dreamed of converting "NVolfert's Roost
into Sunnyside, he wrote thus concerning Sleepy Hollow, in his introduc-
tion to the legend : —

"Not far from this village [Tarry town], perhaps about two miles,
there is a little valley, or rather a lap of land, among high hills, which is
one of the quietest places in the whole world. A small brook glides
through it, with just murmur enough to lull one to repose ; and the
occasional whistle of a quaii, or tapping of a woodpecker, is almost the

only sound that ever breaks in upon the uniform tranquillity If

ever I should wish for a retreat, whither I might steal from the world
and its distractions, and dream .quietly away the remuanc of a troubled
life, I know of none more promising than this little valley."

When, more than a dozen years ngo, the Tarry town Cemetery was laid
out, Mr. Irving chose the plot of ground where his remains now lie, for
his family burial place. A few years later, wbnn the contents of the
grave and vaults in the burial-ground of the "Brick Church" in New
York, were removed, the remains of his family were taken to this spot
and interred. A gentleman who accompanied mc to the grave, super-
intended the removal. Mr. Irving had directed the remains to be so
disposed as to allow himself to lie by the side of liis motlier. And when
the burial was performed, tlio good old man stood thoughtfully for awhile,
leaning against a tree, and looldng into his mother's grave, as it was
slowly filled with the earth. Then covering his face with his hands he
wept as tenderly as a young child. According to his desire ho now rests
by the side of that mother, whom he loved dearly ; and at his own left
liand is reserved a space for his only surviving brother. General Ebenezer
Irving, ten years his senior, who yet (18GG) resides at Sunnyside at the
age of about ninety-four years.

326

THE HUDSON.

The remains of Mr. Irving's old Scotch nurse were, at his request,
buried in the same grave with his mother. Of this fiiitliful woman Mr.
Irving once said, — " I remember General Washington perfectly. There
was some occasion when he appeared in a public procession ; my nurse,
a good old Scotch woman, was very anxious for me to see him, and held
me up in her arms as he rode past. This, however, did not satisfy her ;
so the next day, when walking with me in Broadway, she espied him in
a shop ; she seized my hand, and darting in, exclaimed in her bland
Scotch, — ' Please your excellency, here's a bairn that's called after ye ! '
General AVashington then turned his benevolent face full upon me, smiled,
laid his hand upon my head, and gave me his blessing, which," added
Mr. Irving, "I have reason to believe has attended me through life. I
was but five years old, yet I can feel that hand upon my head even now."
Mr. Irviug's last and greatest literary work Avas an elaborate life of
Washington, in five octavo volumes.

W"c have observed that the Po-can-te-co, flowing through Sleepy
Hollow, spreads out into a pretty little lake above an ancient and
picturesque dam, near the almost as ancient church. This little lake
extends back almost to the bridge in the dark weird glen, and furnishes
motive power to a very ancient mill that stands close by I'hilipse Castle,
as the more ancient manor-house of the family was called. The first lord
of an extensive domain in this vicinity, purchased from the Sachem
Goharius, in 1680, and which was confirmed by royal patent the same
year, was a descendant of the ancient Yiscounts Felyps, of Bohemia, who
took an active part in favour of ZAm Huss and Jerome of Prague. Here,
at the mouth of the JPo-can-te-co, he erected a strong stone house, with
port and loop holes for cannon and musketry, and also a mill, about the
year 1683. Because of its heavy ordnance, it was called Castle Philipsc.
At that time the extensive marsh and meadow land between it and the
present railway was a fine bay, and quite large vessels bore freight to
and from the mill. Here, and at the lower manor-house at Yonkers, the
lords of Pliilipse's Manor lived in a sort of feudal state for almost a
century, enjoying exclusive social and political privileges. The proprietor
iu possession when the war for iudcpcndencc broke out, espoused the cause
of the crown. His estates were confiscated, and a relative of the family,

Gerardus Beekman, became the purchaser of the castle and many broad
acres adjoining it. In that family it remained until the spring of 1860
(about three quarters of a century), -when Mr. Storm, the present
proprietor, purchased it. Beekman made a large addition to the Castle.
In our little picture it is seen as it appeared in the time of the Philipses.
In the basement wall, near the rear of the building, may be seen a port-
hole in which the muzzle of a cannon was seen for full half a century, as

I'lIILIPSK'S MILL-DAM.

a menace to any hostile intruders who might come up Po-can-tc-co Bay,
which is now filled with earth, and is a fine marsh meadow.

Upon an eminence eastward of riiilipso Castle and the ancient church,
whoso base is washed by the Po-ran-te-co, is Irving Turk, a domain of
about one hundred acres, which was laid out by Charles H. Lyon, Esq.,
for the purpose of villa sites, that should have all the advantages of highly

328

THE HUDSON.

ornamented grounds, pleasant neighbourhood, retirement, and extensive
and varied views of a beautiful country, at a moderate expense. From
this hill, and its river slopes, comprehensive views may be had of some of
the most charming scenery of the lower Hudson. From its summit,
overlooking Sleepy Hollow, the eye commands a sweep of the Hudson
from New York to the Highlands, a distance of fifty miles, and views in
five or six counties in the States of New York and New Jersey. From the
veranda of one of the cottages in the park, most charming glimpses may

I'llILlI'SE CA8TLK.

be obtained of portions of the village of Tan'ytown,'^' near, with its wharf
and railway station ; and of the Palisades below Picrmont, the village of
riermont and its pier jutting into the Hudson a mile from the shore, the
village of Rockland (formerly Snedcn's Landing), and the intervening

• The iiutivi'8 ciillocl lliis iiUii'i> A-Hp-conck, or I'liue iif Elma, thut tipc Imviiis Iiecii nbtindnnt there
in earl^ times, and still Honrislio:*. Tlio Uutch oalleil it Terteen Dorp, or Wliciit Town, bociiiiao tluit
cereal ^rew Inxuriantly upon llio (Ireenlmruli Hills and valleys around. As iisnul, the Knjjlish retained
a part of the Dnleli name, and calli'd it Terwe Town, from whiih is derived the modern pronuiieiution,
Turrytown. In the legend of " Sleepy Hollow," Jlr. Irvinji; says,—" The name was given, we are tolil,
in former days liy the good lionsewives of the adjaeeni eianitry, from the inveterate propensity of their
Iiusbands to linger about the village taverns on market days." So they called it Tarrytown.

THE HUDSON.

329

river with its nifmerous -water-craft. Our little picture of that scene
gives some idea of the delights of a residence within Irving Park, afforded
hy broad views of nature in its lovely aspects, and the teeming commerce
of u great river. Besides these attractions there are pleasant views of the
Po-can-tc-co, as it dashes through Sleepy Hollow in swift rapids and
sparkling cascades, from various portions of the park. And all of these,

1 k^lA.M' MfcW AT TAHHYl'OW.N.

with the pleasant roads and paths, belong to the owners of dwellings
within the park. The proprietor of an acre of ground and his family may
take their morning walk or evening drive through miles of varied scenery,
without going into the public road, and with the agreeable consciousness
of being on their own premises.

Soon after leaving the Fo-can-ta-co, on the way towards Tarrytown, a

u V

fine monumciit of white "Westchester marble, about twenty-five feet in
height, is seen at the side of the highway, and on the margin of a little
stream called Andre's Brook. It is surrounded by an iron railing, and
upon a tablet next to the road is the following inscription, which explains
the object of the monument : — ''

" On this spot, the 22nd day of September, 1780, the spy, Major John

VIEW OX THE 1'0-CAN-TE-CO FliOM IRVING PABK.

Andre, Adjutant-general of the British army, was captured by John
Paulding, ])avid Williams, and Isaac Van Wart, all natives of this county.
History has told the rest.

"The people of Westchester County have erected this Monument, as
well to commemorate a great event as to testify thoir high estimation of
that integrity and patriotism wliich, rejecting every temptation, rescued

THE HUDSON.

331

the United States from most imminent peril, by baffling the arts of a Spy
and the plots of a Traitor. Dedicated October 7, 1853."

The land on which this monument stands was given for the purpose, by
William Taylor, a coloured man, who lives in a neat cottage close by,
surrounded by ornamented grounds, through which flows Andre's Brook.
Hon. llcnry J. Eaymond, editor of the iVew York Lailj Times, addi'cssed

MONr.MKNT AT lARBYTOWN.

the multitude on the occasion of the dedication. Monuments of white
marble have been erected to the memory of two of the captors of Andre,
over their respective remains. That to Paulding is in the burial-ground
of St. Peter's Church, near Peek's Kill. It was erected by the corporation
of the city of New York, as " a memorial sacred to I'L'blic okatixude."
William Paulding, then mayor of New York, addressed the assembled

332

.HE HUDSON.

citizens on the occasion of its dedication, November 22, 1827. The
monument to the memory of Van "Wart is over his remains in the
Greenburgh Presbyterian Chiirch, near the lovely Neperan river, a few
miles from Tarrytown. It was dedicated on the 11th of June, 1829, when
the assembled citizens were addressed by General Aaron Ward, of Sing
Sing. The monument was erected by the citizens of Westchester County.
The remains of Williams are at Livingstonvillc, Schoharie County ; no
monument has yet been erected over them.

"History lias told the rest," says the insenption upon the monument.
In the next Chapter wc will observe what history says.

CHAPTEE XVIII.

|E have already observed the progress of Arnold's
treason, from its inception to his conference with
Andre at the house of Joshua Hett Smith. There
'^\ we left them, Andre being in possession of sundry
valuable papers, revealing the condition of the post
to be surrendered, and a pass. He remained alone with his
troubled thoughts all day. The Vulture, as we have seen, had
dropped down the river, out of sight, in consequence of a
cannonade from a small piece of ordnance upon the extremity of
Teller's Point, sent there for the purpose by Colonel Henry
Livingston, who was in command at Vei-planck's Point, a few miles
above.

In the afternoon Andre solicited Smith to take him back to the Vulture.
Smith refused, with the false plea of illness— but he offered to travel half
the night with the adjutant-general if he would take the land route.
There was no alternative, and Andre Avas compelled to yield to the force
of circumstances. He consented to cross the King's Ferry (from Stony to
Verplanck's Point), and make his way back to Xew York by land. He
exchanged his military coat for a citizen's dress, placed the papers re-
ceived from Arnold in his stockings under his feet, and at a little
before sunset on the evening of the 22nd of September, accompanied by
Smith and a negro servant, all mounted, made his way towards King's
Ferry, bearing the following pass, in the event of his being challenged
within the American lines : —

^'Head-quarters, liobinson^s Rouse, Sept. 22, 1780.

" Permit Mr. John Anderson to pass the Guards to the "White Plains,
or below, if he choo&es, he being on public business by my direction.

"]{. Aknold, Major- General."

334

THE HUDSON.

At twilight they passed through the works at Verplam k's Point, unsus-
pected, and then turned their faces towards the White Plains, the interior
route to New York. Andre was moody and silent. He had disobeyed
the orders of his commander by rccei\4ng papers, and was involuntarily
a spy, in every sense of the word, within the enemy's lines. Eight miles
from A'erplanck's they were hailed by a sentinel. Arnold's pass was
presented, and the travellers were about to pass on, when the officer on
duty advised them to remain until morning, because of dangers on the
road. After much persuasion, Andre consented to remain, but passed a
sleepless night. At an early hour the party were in the saddle, and at
Pine's njridgc over the Croton, Andre, with a lighter heart, parted com-
pany with Smith and his servant, having been assured that ho was then
upon tlie neutral ground, beyond the roach of the American patrolling
parties.

Andre had been warned to avoid the Cow Boys. These were bands of
Tory marauders who infested the neutral ground. He was told that they
were more numerous upon the Tarrytown road than that whi( h led to the
White Plains. As these were friends of the British, he resolved to travel
the Tarrytown or river road. He felt assured that if he should fall into
the hamb of t^ ^ Cow Boys, he would be taken by them to New York, hi
destination. This change of route was his fatal mistake.

On the morning when Andre crossed Pine's Bridge, a little band of
seven volunteers \yent out near Tarrytown to prevent the Cow Boys
driving the cattle to New York, and to arrest any suspicious travellers
upon the highway. Three of these — Paulding, Van Wart, and Williams —
Avere under the shade of a clump of trees, near a spring on the borders of
the stream just mentioned, and now known by the name of Andre's
Brook, playing cards, when a stranger appeared on horseback, n short
distance up the road. His dress and manner were different from ordinary
travellers seen in that vicinity, and they determined to step out and
question him. Paulding had lately escaped from captivity in New York,
in the dress of a Uerman Yager, *hc mercenaries in the employment of
the British ; and on seeing him, Andre, thereby deceived, exclaimed,
" Thank God ! I am once more among friends." But Paulding presented
his musket, and ordered him to stop. "Gentlemen," said Andre, "I

THE HUDSON.

335

hope you belong to our party?" "What party?" asked rauklinp.
"The Lower Party" (meaning the British), Andre replied. *' I do,"
said Paulding; when Andre said, " I am a British officer, out in tho
country on particular business, and I hope you will not detain mc a
minute." Paulding told him to dismount, when Andre, conscious of his
mistake, exclaimed, "My God! I must do anything to get along;" and
with a forced good-humour, pulled out General Arnold's pass. Still they
insisted upon his dismounting, when ho warned them not to detain him,
OS he was on public business for tho (Jencral. They were inflexible.
They said there were many bad people on tho road, and they did not
know but he might bo one of thira. He dismounted, when they took
him into a thicket, and searched him. They found nothing to confirm
their suspicions that he was not what he represented himself to be. They
then ordered him to pull off his boots, which he did without hesitation,
and they were about to allow him to dress himself, whtu they observed
something: in his stockings under his feet. "NVhcn these wire removed
they discovered tho papers which Arnold had put in his possession.
Finding himself detected, he offered them bribes to let him go. They
refused ; and he was conducted to tho nearest American post, and delivered
to a commanding ofiicer. That officer, with strange obtuseuess of percep-
tion, was about to send the prisoner to General Arnold with a letter
detailing the circumstances of his arrest, when Major Tallmadgo, a briglit
and vigilant officer, protested against the measure, and expressed his
suspicions of Arnold's fidelity. But Jamicson, the commander, only half
yielded. He detained the; prisoner, but sent the Ictfer to Arnold. That
was the one which the traitor received while at breakfast at ]5everly
(Robinson's House), and which caused his precipitate flight to the VuUurc.
Tho circumstances of that flight have already been narrated.

Andre wrote a letter to Washington, briefly but frankly detailing the
events of his miss'on, and concluded, after relating how he was conducted
to Smith's House, and changed his clothes, by saying, "Thus, as I have
had the honour to relate, was I betrayed (being adjutant-gcncrid of the
British army) into tho vile condition of an enemy in disguise within
your posts."

Washington ordered Andre to be sent first to West Point, and then to

Tappan, an inland li imlet on tl c west side of the Hudson opposite Tarry-
town, then the head-quarters of the American army. There, at his own
quarters, he summoned a board of general officers on the 29th of Septem-
ber, and ordered them to examine into the case of Major Andre, and
report the result. He also directed them to give their opinion as to the
light in which the prisoner ought to be regarded, and the punishment
that should be inflicted. Andre was arraigned before them, on the same
day, in the church not far from Washington's quarters. He made to

WASm.NUTO>S HKAU-yUARTEKS AT TAPPAX.

them the same truthful statement of facts which he gaA-e in his letter to
"Washington, and remarked, "I leave them to operate with the board,
persuaded that you will do me justice." He was remanded to prison ;
and after long and careful deliberation, the board reported " That Major
Andre, adjutant-g'jneral of the British army, ought to be considered as a
spy from the enemy, and that agreeably to the law and usage of nations,
it is their opinion he o'lght to suffer death."

"Washington approved the sentence on the 30th, and ordered his execu-
tion the next day at five o'clock in the afternoon. The youth, candour,

THE HUDSON.

337

gentleness, and honourable bearing of the prisoner made a deep impression
on the court and the commander-in-chief. Had their decision bton in
consonance with their feelings instead of their judgments and the steru
necessities of war, he would never have sufiercd death. There was a
general desire on the part of the Americans to save him. The only mode
was to exchange him for Arnold, and hold the traitor responsible for all
the acts of his victim. Sir Henry Clinton was a man of nice honour, and
would not be likely to exhibit such bad faith towards Arnold, oven to
save his beloved adjutant- general. Nor would Washington make such a
proposition. He, however, respited the prisoner for a day, and gave others
an opportunity to lay an informal proposition of that kind before Clinton.
A subaltern went to the nearest liritish outpost with u letter from "Wash-
ington to Clinton, containing the official proceedings of the court-martial,
and Andre's letter to the American cDramander. That subaltern, as in-
structed, informed the messenger who was to bear the packet to Sir Henry,
that he believed Andre might be exchanged for Aniold. This was com-
municated to Sir Henry. He refused compliance, but sent a general
officer up to the borders of the neutral ground, to confer with one from
the American camp on the subject of the innocence of Major Andre.
General Greene, the president of the court, met General Kobertson, the
commissioner from Clinton, at Dobbs' Ferry. The conference Avas fruitless
of results favourable to Andre.

The unfortunate young man w is not disturbed by the fear of d"ath, but
the manner ^vas a subject of great solicitude to him. He wrote a touching
letter to "Washington, asking to die the death of a soldier, and not that of
a spi/. Again the stem rules of war interposed. The manner of death
must be according to the character given him by the sentence. All hearts
were powerfully stirred by sympathy for him. The equiti/ of that sentence
was not questioned by military men ; and yet, only inexorable expediency
at that hour when the llepublican cause seemed in the greatest peril,
caused the execution of the sentence in his case. The sacrifice had to be
made for the public good, and the prisoner was hung as a spy at Tappan
at noon on the 2nd of October, 1780.

It is said that "Washington never saw Major Andre, having avoiv?ed
a personal interview with him froux the beginning. "Unwilling fj give

I'i

him unnecessary pain, Washington did not reply to his letter asking for
the death of a soldier, and the unhappy prisoner was not certain what
was to be the manner of his execution, until he was led to the gallows.
The lines of Miss Anne Seward, Andre's friend, commencing,

" O Wasliiiigtoii 1 I thought lliee great und good,
Nor knew thy Xero-thirst for guiltless blood,
Severe to use tlic power that fortune gave,
Tlioii cool, determined murderer of the brave 1"

were unjust, for he sincerely commiserated the fate of the prisoner, and
would have made every proper sacrifice to save him.

ANWiJi'S I'EN AND IS'K BliETCll.

Mtijor Andre was an accomplished young man, and a clever amateur
artist. He was perfectly composed from the time tliat his fate was made
known to him. On the day fixed for his execution, he sketched with pen
and ink a likeness of himself sitting at a table, and gave it to the officer
of his guard, who had been kind to him. It is preserved in the Trumbull
Gallery of pictures, at Yale College, in Connecticut.

Major Andre was buried at the place of his execution. In 1832, his
remains were removed, under instructions of hisHoyal Highness the Duke

a HE HUDSON.

339

of York, by James Buchanan, the British consul at New York, and de-
posited in a grave near a mcinument in Westminster Abbey, erected by
his king not long after his death. It is a mural monument, in the form
of a sarcophagus, standing on a pedestal. It is surmounted by Britannia
and her lion. On i\w front of the sarcopliagus is a basso-relievo, in whicli
is represented General ^V'.ishirgton and his officers in a tent at the moment

AM)»K'S MOM.MK.N'l'.

when lie received the report of the court of inquiry. At the same time a
messenger is seen with a flag, bearing a letter from Andre to Wasliington.
On the opposite side is a guard of Continental soldiers, and the tree on
which Andre was lung. Two men are preparing the prisoner for execu-
tion, iu the centre of this design. At the foot of the tree sit Mercy and

340

THE HUDSON.

Innocence bewailing his fate. Upon a panel of the pedestal is the fol.
lowing inscription : — " Sacred to the memory of Major John Andkk,
who, raised by his merit at an early period of his life to the rank of
Adjutant-General of the British forces in America, and employed in an
important but hazardous enterprise, fell a sacrifice to his zeal for his king
and country, on the 2nd of October, A.n. 1780, universally beloved and
esteemed by the army in which he served, and lamented even by his foes.
His gracious sovereign, Kixu Gkorgk thk Tiitkt), has caused this monu-
ment to be erected." On the base is a record of the removal of his
remains from the banks of the Hudson to their final resting-place near
the banks of the Thames. Such is che sad story, in brief outline, of the
closing days of the accomplished Andre's life. Arnold, tlio traitor, was
despised even by those who accepted his treason for purposes of state ; and
his hand never afterwards touched the palm of an honourable Englishman.
In his own country, he had ever occupied the " bad eminence " of arch
traitor, until tlie beginning of the year 1861 ; others now hoar the
palm.

Upon a high and fertile promontory below Tarrytown, may be seen one
of the finest and purest specimens of the Pointed Tudor style of domestic
architecture in the United States, the residence of Philip E. Paulding, Esq.,
and called Paulding Manor. It was built in 18-10. Its walls are of the
Mount Pleasant or Sing Sing marble. The whole outline, ground and
sky, is exceedingly picturesque, there being gables, towers, turrets, and
pinnacles. There is also a great variety of windows decoiated Avith
mullions and tracery ; and at one wing is a Port Cochere, or C' ered
entrance for carriages. It has a broad arcaded piazza, affording shade
and shelter for promenading. The interior is adm ubly arranged for
convenience and artistic effect. The drawing-room i i spacious apart-
ment, occupying the whole of the south wing. It hii n high ceiling,
richly groin-arched, with fan tracery or diverging ribs, springing from
and supported by columnar shafts. The ceilings of all the apartments of
the first story are highly elegant in decoration. " That of the dining-
room," says !Mr. Downing, "is concavo-convex in shape, with diverging
ribs and ramified tracery springing from corbels in the angles, the centre
being occupied by a pendant. In the; saloon the ribbed ceiling forms two

THE HUDSON.

341

inclined planes. The floor of the second story has a much larger area
than that of the first, as the rooms in the former project over the open
portals of the latter. The spacious library, over the western portal,
lighted by a lofty window, is the finest apartment of this story, with its
carved foliated timber roof rising in the centre to twenty-five feet." The
dimensions of this room are thirty-seven by eighteen feet, including an
organ gallery. Ever since its erection, Paulding Manor has been the
most conspicuous dwelling to be seen by the eye of the voyager on the
Lower Hudson.

I'AIT.DISO MANOR.

About three miles below Tarryto^,'n is Sunnysido, the rosldfuoc of the
late Washington Irving. It is reached from the public road by a winding
carriage-way that passes here through rich pastures and pleasant wood-
lands, and then along the margin of a dell through which runs a pleasant
brook, reminding one of the merry laughter of children as it dances away
riverward, and leaps, in beautiful cascades and rapids, into a little bay a
few yards from the cottage of Sunnyside. Tiiere, more than iifteen years
ago, I visited the dear old man whom the world loved so avcH, and who

342

THE HUDSON.

SO lately was laid beneath the greensward on the margin of Sleepy Hollow,
made classic by his genius. Then I made the sketch of Sunnyside here
presented to the reader. It was a soft, delicious day in June, when the
trees were in full leaf and the birds in full song. I had left the railway-
cars a fourth of a mile below where the germ of a village had just ap-
peared, and strolled along the iron road to a stile, over which I climbed,

M N.WSIlli:.

and ascended the bank by a pleasant path to the shadow of a fine old
cedar, not far from the entrance gate. There I rested, and sketched the
(juaiut cottage half shrouded in English ivy. Its master soon appeared
in the porch, with a little fair-haired boy whom he led to the river bank
in search of daisies and buttercups. It was a pleasant picture, and yet
there was a cloud-shadow resting upon it. His best earthly afiections

THE HUDSON.

343

had been buried, long yours before, in the grave with a sweet young lady
who had promised to become his bride. Death interposed between the
betrothal and the appointed nuptials. He remained faithful to that first
love. Throughout all the vicissitudes of a long life, in society and in
solitude, in his native land and in foreign countries, on the stonny ocean
and in the repose of quiet homes, he had borne her miniature in his
bosom in a plain golden case, and upon his table, for daily use, always
lay a small Bible, with the name of his lost one, in the delicate hand-
writing of a female, upon the title-page. As I looked upon that good
man of gentle, loving nature, a bachelor of sixty-five, I thought of his
exquisite picture of a true woman, in his charming little story of " The
Wife," and wondered whether his own experience had not been in
accordance with the following beautiful passage in his " Newstead
Abbey," in which he says : — " An early, innocent, and unfortunate
passion, however fruitful of pain it may be to the man, is a lasting
advantage to the poet. It is a well of sweet and bitter fancies, of
refined and gentle sentiments, of elevated and ennobling thoughts, shut
up in the deep recesses of the heart, keeping it green amidst the withering
blights of the world, and by its casual gushings and overfiowings,
recalling at times all the freshnes3, and innocence, and enthusiasm of
youthful days."

I visited Sunnyside again only a fortnight before the death of
Mr. Irving. I found him in his study, a small, quiet room, lighted by
two delicately curtained windows, one of which is seen nearest the porch,
in our little sketch of the mansion. From that window he could see far
down the river ; from the other, overhung with ivy, he looked out upon
the lawn and the carriago-way from the lane. In a curtained recess was
a lounge with cushions, and books on every side. A large easy-chair,
and two or three others, a writing-table with many drawers, shelves
filled with books, three small pictures, and two neat bronze candelabra,
completed the furniture of the room. It was warmed by an open grate
of coals in a black variegated marble chimney-piece. Over this were the
throe small pictures. The larger represents "A literary party at Sir
Joshua Reynolds's." The other two wore spirited little pen-and-ink
sketches, with a little colour — illustrative of scenes in one of the earlier

: I

344

THE HUDSON.

of Mr. Irving's works — ''Knickerbocker's History of New York" —
which he picked up ia London many years ago. One represented
Stuyvesant confronting Risingh, the Swedish governor; the other,
IStuyvesant's wrath in council.

Mr. Irving was in feeble health, but hopeful of speedy convalescence.
He expressed his gratitude because his strength and life had bc(>n spared

IHVING'S STUUV.

until he completed the greatest of all his works, his " Life of
Washington." "I have laid aside my pen for ever," he said; "my
work is finished, and now I intend to rest." He was then seven years
past the allotted age of man, yet his mental energy seemed unimpaired,
and his genial good-humour was continually apparent. I took the first
course of dinner with him, when I was compelled to leave to be in time

THE HUDSON.

345

for the next train of cars that would convey me home. He arose from
the table, and passed into the little drawing-room with me. At the door
ho took my hand in both of his, and with a pleasant smile said, ** 1 wish
you success in all your undertakings. God bless you."

It was the last day of the ''Indian summer," in 1859, a soft, balmy,
glorious day in the middle of iNovember. The sotting sun was sending a
blaze of rod light across the bosom of Tappan Bay, when I left the porch
aud followed the winding path down the bank to the railway. There
was peacefuluess in the aspect of all nature at that hour, and I left
Sunuyside, feeling sensibly the inlluencc of a good man's blessing. Only
a fortnight afterwards, on a dark, stormj- evening, I took up a newspaper
at an inn in a small village of the Yalley of the Upper Hudson, and read
the startling announcement, '■^ Death of IVashingtoH Irving.''^ I felt as if
a near aud dear friend had been suatched away for ever. I was too fur
from home to be at the funeral, but one of my family, very dear to me,
was in the crowd of sincere mourners at his ^rt.ve, on the borders of
Sleepy Hollow. The day was a lovely one on the verge of winter, and
thousands stood reverently around, on that sunny slope, while the earth
was cast upon the coffin and the preacher uttered the solemn Avords,
" Earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust." Tew men over went to
the tomb lamented by more sincere friends. From many a pulpit his
name was spoken with reverence. Literary aud other societies through-
out the land expressed their sorrow aud respect. A thousand pens wrote
eulogies for the press, and Bryant, the poet, his life-long friend, pro-
nounced an impressive funeral oration not long afterwards, at the request
of the New York Historical Society, of which Jlr. Irving was a member.

I visited Sunuyside again in May, 18 GO, and after drinking at the
mysterious spring,* strolled along the brook at the mouth of the glen,
where it comes down in cascades before entering the once beautiful little
bay, now cut off from free union with the river by the railway. The

* This spring ia at the foe', of the bank on tlio vory brink cf tlio river. "Tradition "leclaros," Hays
Mr. Irving in liis lulrairable story of " Wolfort's Koost," " Unit it was Mnuiggleil over from Holland in
u c'liinn by Femniolio Van lilarcom, wife of tJoosen Uarretl Van lilarconi, oJie of the first settlori*, anil
that she lonk it tip by night, tniknown to her husband, from lioside their farm-house near Kottcrdam;
being sure she should find no water ecinal to it in the new country— and she was right."

346

THE HUDSON.

chaniK.'l was fuirof crystal water. The toiidcr foliage was casting delicate
shadows wliere, at this time, there is half twilight under the umbrageous
branches, and the trees are full of waibkrs. It is a charming spot, and is

i^i^0

TU£ BBOOK AT SVKIiVSIUE.

consecrated by many memories of Irving and his friends who frequented
this romantic little dell when the summer sun was at meridian.

After sketching the brook at the cascades, I climbed its banks, crossed

THE HUDSON.

347

the lune, and wandered along a shaded path hy a gardener's cottage to a
hollow in the liills, filled with water, in which a hevy of ducks were
sporting. This pond, which Mr. Irving playfully culled his " ^Feditcr-

»^V4 ■-' -
THF. POND, OU "MEDIlKaii/vKKAX SKA."

rancan Sea," was made hy damming the stream, and thus a pretty
cascade at its outlet was formed. It is in the shape of the " palm leaf"
that comes from the loom. On one side a wooded hill stretches down to

it abruptly, leaving only space enough for a path, and on others it
washes the feet of gentle grassy slopes. This is one of the many
charming pictures to be found in the landscape of Sunnyide. After
strollinfT along the pathways in various directions, sometimes finding
myself upon the domains of tlic neighbours of Sunnyside (for no fence or
hedge barriers exist bciween them), I made my way back to the cottage,
where the eldest and cinly surviving brother of Mr. Irving, and his
daughters, reside. These daughters Avere always as children to the late
occupant, and by their affection and domestic skill they made his home a
delightful one to himself and friends. But the chief light of that
dwelling is removed, and there are shadows at Sunnyside that fall darkly
upon the visitor who remembers the sunshine of its former days, for, as
his friend Tuckerman wrote on the day after the funeral, —

" ITo whoso fancy wove a siiell
As lastiiij; as llie scene is fail',
And made the mouatain, strenni, and dell,
His own dreuui-life for ever share ;

"He who with England's household's grace.
And with the brave romance of Spain.
Tradition's lore and Xatnie's face,
Imbued his visionary brain :

"Mnsed in Gianada's old arcade

As gush'il the Moi)ri,-»li fount at noon.

With the last minstrel thciujrlitful stray'd,

To ruin'd shrines beneath the moon :

" And breathed the tenderness and wit
Thus panier'd, in expression pure.
As now his thoughts with humour Hit,
And now to pathos wisely lure;

" Who traced with sympathetic hand
Our lu'crlcss chieftain's high career,
His life that gladden'd all the land,
And hlest a home— is endcil here I"

There was a fascination about Mr. Irving that drew every living
creature towards him. His personal character, like his writings, was
distinguished by extreme modesty, sweetness, and simplicity. "Ho was
never willing to set forth his own pretensions," wrote a friend, after his
death ; '* he was willing to leave to the public the care of his literary

THE HUDSON.

349

reputation. Ho had no taste for controversy of any sort ; his manners
were mild, and his con crsation, in the society of those with whom ho
was intimate, was most genial and p.ayful." James Russell Lowell has
{»iven the following admirable outline of his character : —

■• Hut allow me to siicak wliat 1 liumbly feel,—
To a true i>n.'t-lit'iirt adtl the fun of Diik Steele
Tlirow iutiU 'i'Adilison, Hi(/ii(.s- till- chill ;
Willi tlie whule of that i>iutuershi|)'s stwk ami trnoil-will,
Alix well, ami while sliniti;.', hum o'er as a spell,
The fine old Kiifrlish Oenllemaii ; simmer it well.
Sweeten just to your own jiriviih' likinu, llu'u [.train,
That only the fini'st and purest remain ;
TjCt it slHU'l out of doors till a soul it receives
From the warm, lazy sun loitering dnwn through preen leaves,
And you'll find a choice natun*, not wholly deserving
A name either English or Yank.'C— jusl Ihvixg."

I must remember that I am not writing an eulogy of l^^r. Irving, but
only giving a few outlines with pen and pencil of his late homo on the
banks of the Hudson, Around that home sweetest memories will ever
cluster, and the pilgrim to Sunnysidi' will rejuieo to honour those who
made that homo so delightful to their idol, and who justly find a place
in the sunny recollections of the departed.

Around that cottage, and tlie adjacent lands aud waters, living's genius
has cast an atmosphere of romance. The old Dut h house — one of the
oldest in all that region — out of which grew that quaint cottage, was a
part of the veritable "NVolfert's Eoost — the vei-y dwelling wherein occurred
Katrina Van Tassel's memorable quilting frolic, that terminated so
disastrously to Ichabod Crane, in his midnight race with the Headlcf^s
Horseman of Sleepy Hollow. There, too, the veracious Duti 1\ historinn,
Diedrich Knickerbocker, domiciled while he was dociphoring ' he precious
documents found there, " which, like the lost books of Livy, had baffled
the research of former historians." But its appearance had sadly i luiuged
Avhen it was purchased by Mr. Irving, about thirty years ago, and was
by him restored to the original form of the Roost, which ho describes s
" a little, old-fashioned stone mansion, ail made up of gable ends, and as
full of angles and corners as an old cocked hat. It is said, in fact,"
continues ^Ir. Irving, " to have been modelletl after the cocked hat of
Peter the Headstrong, as the Escurial was modelled after the griiliron of

\ 'V

350

THE HUDSON.

tho blessed St. Lawrence." It was built, the chronicler tills us, by
Wolfert Acker, a privy councillor of Peter Stuyvesant, "a worthy, but
ill-starred man, whose aim through life had hv.cjx to live in peace and
quiet," He sadly failed. "It was his doom, in fact, to meet a head
wind at every turn, and be kept in a constant fume and fret by the
pervcrseness of mankind. Had he served on a modern jury, he would
have been sure to have eleven unreasonable men oppt>sed to him." He
retired in disgust to this then wilderness, built the gabled house, and

WOLFEKT'S ROOSr WIIKX lHV]N<i I'lHCirASKl) IT.

"inscribed over the door (his teeth clenched at the time) his favourite
Dutch motto, 'Lust in Rust' (pleasure in quiet). The mansion was
thence called Wolfert's Rust (Wolfort's Rest), but by the uneducatetl,
who did not understand Dutch, Wolfert's Roost." It passed into the
hands of Jacob Van Tassel, a valiant Dutchman, who espoused the cause
of the Republicans. The hostile ships of the British were often seen in
Tappan Bay, in front of the Roost, and Cow Boys infested the land
thereabout. Van Tassel had much trouble : his house was finally
plundered and burnt, and he was carried a prisoner to New York. When

THE HUDSON.

351

the war was over, lie rebuilt the lloost, but in more modest style, as seen
in our sketcli. " Tbc Indian spring" — the one brouglit from Kotterdum
— " still welled up at the bottom of the green bunk ; and the wild
brook, wild as ever, came babbling down the ravine, and threw itself
into the little cove where of yore the water-guard harboured their
whale-boats."

The "water-guard" was an aquatic corps, in the pay of the revolu-
tionary government, organised lo range the waters of the Hudson, and
keep watch upon the movements of the British. The lloost, according
to the chronicler, was one of tlie lurking-places of this band, and Van
Tassel was one of their best friends. He was, moreover, fond of warring
upon his "own hook." He possessed a famous " goose-gun," that would
send its shot half-way across Tappan Bay. "When the belligerent
feeling was strong upon Jacob," says the chronicler of the lloost, "he
would take down his gun, sally forth alone, and prowl along shore,
dodging behind rocks and trees, watching for hours together any ship or
galley o^ anchor or becalmed. So sure as a boat approached the shore,
bang ! went the great goose-gun, sending on board a sbowcr of slugs and
buck shot."

On one occasion, Jacob and some fellow bush-fighters peppered u
liritish transport tint had run aground. "This," says the chronicler,
" was the last of Jacob's triumphs ; he fared like some heroic spider that
has unwittingly ensnared a hornet, to the utter ruin of its web. It was
not long after the above exploit that he fell into tlie hands of the enemy,
in the course of one of his forays, and was carried away prisoner to New
York. The lloost itself, as a pestilent rebel nest, was marked out for
signal punishment. The cock of the lloost being captive, there was none
to garrison it but his stout-hearted spouse, his redoubtable sister, Notchie
Van Wurmer, and Dinah, a strapping negro wench. An armed vessel
came to anchor in front ; a boat full of men pulled to shore. The
garrison flew to arms, that is to say, to mops, broomsticks, shovels,
tongs, and all kinds of domestic weapons, for, unluckily, the great piece
of ordnance, the goose-gun, was absent with its owner. Above all, a
vigorous defence was made with that most potent of female weapons, the
tongue ; never did invaded hen-roost make a more vociferous outcry. It

— ■

352

THE HUDSON.

was all ill vain ! The liouse was sacked and plundered, fire was set to
each room, and in a few moments its blaze shed a baleful light over the
Tappan Sea. The invaders then pounced upon the blooming Lanoy Yan
Tassel, the beauty of the lloost, and endeavoured to bear her oi'f to the
boat. Uut here was the real tug of war. The mother, the aunt, and the
strapping negro Avencli, all Hew to the rescue. The struggle continued
down to the very Avater's edge, when a voice from the armed vessel at
anchor ordered the spoilers to desist; they relimpiished their prize,
jumped into their bouts, and puUed of!', and the heroine of the lloost
escaped with a mere; ruinidiug of the feathers."

i' ^

^r >;-

> . <

CHAPTER XIX.

LOSE by Sunnysidc is one of those marvellous villages
with Avhich America abounds : it has sprung up like a
mushroom, and bears the name of Irvington, in com-
pliment to the late master of Sunnysidc. A dozen
years ago not a solitary house was there, excepting
that of Mr. Dearman, the farmer who owned the land. Pier-
mont, directly opposite, was then the sole eastern terminus of
the great New York and Eric Eailway, and here seemed to be
an eligible place for a village, as the Hudson Eiver Raihvay
was then almost completed. Mr. Dearman had one surveyed
upon his lands ; streets were marked out, village lots were measured and
defined ; sales at enormous prices, which enriched the owner, were made,
and now upon that farm, in pleasant cottages, surrounded by neat
gardens, several hundred inhabitants are dwelling. One of the most
'^jicturesquo of the station-houses upon the Hudson lUver Hallway is
there, and a ferry connects the village with Piermont. Morning and
evening, when the trains depart for and arrive from New York, many
handsome vehicles may be seen there. This all seems like the work of
magic. Over this beautiful slope, where so lew years ago the voyager
upon the Hudson saw only woodlands and cultivated fields, is now a
populous town. Tlie owners are cliiefly business men of New York,
whose counting rooms and pai'lours are within less than an hour of each
other.

Less than a mile below Irvington, and about half wa"j lu'twcfn that
village and Dobbs's Ferry, is the beautitiil estate of Xevis, the homo and
property of the Honourable James A. Hamilto.i, eldest surviving son of
the celebrated General Alexander llamilion, one of the ibunders of the
republic of the United States.'' It stands on the brow of the river slope,

_; * Nevis is the imrao of one of a groiii) of the Amilk's, wliore feneriil }fiimittoii wiis born.

354

THE HUDSON.

in the midst of a charming lawn, that extends from the highway to the
Hudson, a distance of half a mile, and louiraands some of the finest and
most extensive views of that portion of the river. The mansion is large,
and its interior elegant. It presents many attractions to the lover of
literature mnd art, aside from the delightful social atmosphere with
which it is filled. There may be seen the library of General Hamilton,
one of the choicest and most extensive in the country at the time of his
death. There, too, may be setn a portrait of "Washington, by Stuart,

am?*.

:m '

! I-

VIEW AT IBVlXaTOW.*

painted for General Hamilton, in 1798, when, in expectation of a war
with France, the United States organised a provisional government, and
appointed him acting commanding general unu^r the ex-president
(Washington), who consented to be the chief.

On the river bank of the ITevis estate is a charming little cottage,
completely embowered, wliere Mr. Irving was a frefjucnt and delighted

* From this point tlio truvoUer Boutliword Amt ubtoins a good view of tlio PuUsodcs on tlio west Bide
of t!ie river.

THE HUDSON.

355

visitor. It is the summer residence of Mr. Schuyler (a grandson of
General Schuyler), Mr. Hamilton's son-in-law. Near it is a more
pretentious residence belonging to Mr. 33latchford, another son-in-law of
the proprietor of " Nevis." "Within call of these pleasant retreats is the
superb residence of Mr. Cottinet, a wealthy New York merchant, built in
French style, of Caen stone. This, in point of complete elegance,

rar

>nt

Ited

BlJc

NEVI3.

externally and internally, is doubtless superiur to tiny other dwelling on
the banks of the Hudson. The grounds about it are laid out -with much
taste, and exhibit many delightful landscape effects.

Dobbs's Ferry, a considerablo village, twenty-two miles from Now
York, was a place of some note a century ago ; but the town has been
mostly built witliin the last fifteen yeara. The Indian name was JFeec-

'"gemser

I i

> !l

( '

i ! 'S

■ S!

> : 1

!.. ifi!

I! :

nil

) !

356

THE HUDSON.

qnes-ffiick, siguit'yiug the place of the Eaik Kettle. Its present name is
from Dobbs, a Swede from the Delaware, one of the earliest settlers on
Philipse's Manor. The village is seated pleasantly on the river front of
the Greonbui'gh Hills, and is the place of summer residence for many New
York families. Here active and important military operations occurred
during the war fov independence. There was no fighting here, but in the
movement of armies it was an important point. Upon the high bank, a
little south-east from the railway station, a redoubt was built by the

t7B*t- *!»«*;■:

\ l..\V Al lIulli.S o I'l.ltUV.

Americans at an early ptniod of the war. Fi'om near that spot our little
sketc)i was taken, wliieh included the long pier at rierinont, tlic village
of iS'yack, and the range of hills just below Haversti-aw, otf wliich the
Vulture lay, and at the foot of which Arnold and Andre met. Several
other redoubts were cast up in this vicinity ; these commanded the feiTy
to Pararaus, afterwards Sncden's Landing, and now llocklund.

Near Bobbs's Ferry tlie Britisli rendezvoued, after the battle at "White
Phiins, in October, 177(5; and at Hastings, a mile below, a British force
of six t^ovnnd men, under Lord Coruwallis, ojosscd the river to Paramus.

THE HUDSON.

357

marched to the attack at Fort Lee, and then pursued the flying Americans
under Washington across New Jersey to the Delaware river. Here, in
1777, a division of the American army, under General Lincoln, was
encamped ; and hero was the spot first appointed as the meeting-place of
Andre and Arnold. Circumstances prevented the meeting, and it was
postponed, as we have already observed. Here, in the mansion of Van
Brugli Livingston, (Jeneral Greene met the chief of three commissioners
from General Sir Henry Clinton, in conference concerning Major Andre.

VIKW NKAU lIAtillMiS.

General llohortson was the chief, and he had strong hopes, by imparting
information from General Clinton, to save the life of his young friend.
Beverly llobiuson accompanied them as a witness. They went up in the
Greyhound schooner, with a flag of truce, but only General Robertson was
permitted to land. Greene met llobertson as a private gentleman, by
permission of Washington, and not as an oftioer. He was willing to listen,
but the case of an acknowledged spy admitted of no discussion. The
subject was freely talked over, and Greene bore from llobertson a verbal
message to AVashington, and a long explanatory and threatening letter

!■

i I

from Arnold. No new facts bearing upon the case were presented, and
nothing was offered that changed the mind ;s of the court or the command-
ing general. So the conference was fruitless.

The Livingston mansion, owned by Stephen Archer, a Quaker, is
preserved in its original form ; under its roof, in past times, many
distinguished men have been sheltered. Washington had his head-

LIVINGSTON MANSION.

quarters there towards the close of the revolution ; and there, in November,
1783, Washington, George Clinton, "the civil governor of the State of
New York," and Sir Guy Carleton, the British commander, met to confer
on the subject of itrisoncrs, tlie loyalists, and the evacuation of the city of
New Yoilv by the British forces. The former came down the river from
Newburg, with their suites, in barges ; the latter, with liis suite, came

•r

THE HUDSON.

359

up from Now York in a frigate. Four companies of American light
infantry performed the duties of a guard of honour on that occasion.
Opposite Dobbs's Ferry and Hastings is the most picturesque portion of

'lllK I'ALISADtS.

the *' Palisades," to which allusion has several times been made. These
are portions of a ridge of trap-rocks extending along the western shore of

360

THE HUDSON.

the Hudson from near Haverstraw almost to Hoboken, a distance of about
thirty-five miles. Between Piermont and Hoboken, these rocks present,
for a considerable distance, an uninterrupted, rude, columnar front, from
300 to 500 feet in height. They form a mural escarpment, columnar in ap-
pearance, yet not actually so in form. They liave a steep slope of debris,
wliich has been crumbling from the cliffs above, during long centuries, by
the action of frost and the elements. The ridge is narrow, being in some
places not more tiian three-fourths of a mile in width. It is really an
enormous projecting trap-dyke. On the top and among the debris, in
many places, is a thin growth of trees. On the western and southern
sides of the range, the slope is gentle, and composed generally of rich soil
covered with trees. Below Tappan it descends to a rich valley, through
whicli a railway now passes.

Viewed from the river this range presents a forbidding aspect ; and little
does the traveller dream of a fertile, smiling country at the back of this
savage front. Several little valleys break through the range, and give
glimpses of the liidden landscape beauties behind the great wall. In the
bottoms of these the trap-dyke appears; so the valleys are only depressions
in the range, /tot fractures.

Several b]^iff^ w ' ■ mge exceed 400 feet in height. The most
elevated of all is one ji^.w^ opposite Sing-Sing, )vhich juts into the river
like an enormous buttress, and in n prominent object f/vrn evrry point on
the Hudson between New York and the i/ighlands J> '^'tO feet

above tide-water. The Dutch named it Verdriel////i-//iH't/: /jrrievous
Vexations Point or Angle — because in navigating the river they \v i apt
to meet suddenly, off this point, adverse and sometimes cross winds, thu<
gave them much vexation. The Palisades present a most remarkable
feature in the scenery of the Lower Hudson.

Yonkers is the name of a large and rapidly-growing village alout fotii*
miles below Hastings, and seventeen from Kow York. Its recent growth
and prosperity are almost wholly due to the Hudson Eiver Hallway, which
furnishes such travelling facilities and accommodations, that hundreds of
buiness men in the city of New York have chosen it for their summer
residences, and many of them for their permanent dwelling-places. Like
Sing-Sing, Tarrytown, Irvington, and Dobbs's Perry, it has a hilly and

THE HUDSON.

361

exceedingly picturesque country around; and through it tho dashing
Neperah, or Saw-Mill lUver, after flowing many miles among the
Greenburgh hills, finds its way into the Hudson in a series of rapids and
cascades. It forms a merry feature in the scenery of the village.

Yonkers derives its name from Yonlcheer — Young Master or Lord — tho
common appellation for the heir of a Dutch family. It is an old
settlement, lands having been purchased here from the sachems by some
of the Dutch West India Company as early as the beginning of Peter
Stuyvesant's administration of the aflFairs of New Netherland.* Here was
the Indian village of Nap-pe-cha-malc, a name signifying "tho rapid water
settlement." This was the name of the stream, afterwards corrupted to
Neperah, and changed by the Dutch and English to Saw-Mill Iliver.
Those utilitarian fathers have much to answer for, because they expelled
from our geographical vocabulary so many of the beautiful and significant
Indian names.

To the resident, the visitor, and tho tourist, the scenery about Yonkers
is most attractive; and the delightful roads in all directions invite
equestrian and carriage excursionists to real pleasure. Those fond of
boating and bathing, fishing and fowling, may here find gratification
at proper seasons, within a half-hour's ride, by railway, from the
metropolis.

The chief attraction at Yonkers for the antiquary is the Philipse Manor
Hall, a spacious stone edifice, that once belonged to the lords of Philipse
Manor. The older portion was built in 1682. The present front, forming
an addition, was erected in 1745, when old "Castle Philipse," at Sleepy
Hollow, was abandoned, and the Manor Hull became the favourite
dwelling of the family. Its interior construction (preserved by the present
owner, the Hon. AV. W. Woodworth, with scrupulous care) attests the
wealth and taste of tho lordly proprietor. The great Hall, or passage, is

* Tlie iloraain included in tlie towns of Yonkers, West Fai'ms, and Momsunia was purcltascd of the
Indians by Adiiaen Vnn dor Donek, the "firiit liiwyer in New XethiMland," and confirmed to liiin in
1616 by grant from tlie Dutch West India C'liniiiany, with the title and privi'ege of Patroon. It con-
tained 24,000 acres. He called it Colen Donck, or Doiick's Colony, ^'an der IJonck. who died in 1655,
was an active man in New Amsterdam (now New York), and took part with the people against the
governor when disputes arose. Ho wrote an interesting dc.srriplion of tho country. After the English
conquest of New Netheriand, Frederick Philipse and others purchased a greater portion of his estate on
the Hudson and Harlem rivers, —

3 A

HI 1

362

THE HUDSON.

broad, and tho staircase capacious and massive. The rooms are largo,
and the ceilings are lofty ; all the rooms arc wainscotid, and the chief
apartment has beautiful ornamental work upon the ceiling, in high relief,
composed of arabesque forms, the figures of bi/ds, dogs, and men, and
two medallion portraits. Two of tho rooms have carved chimney-pieces
of grey Irish marble. The guest-chamber, over th( drawing-room, is

Plai.lrSK M.'.NOl! UM I,

handsomely decorated with ornamental architcc lure, and some of the fire-
places are surrounded with borders of ancient Dutch tiles. The well has
a subterranean passage leading from "t, nobody knows to where ; and the
present ice-house, seen on the righ! of the picture, composed of huge
walls and massive arch, was a powdvf-magazine in the ** olden time."
Altogether, this old hall — one of the antiquities of the Hudson — is an

attractive curiosity, which the obliging proprietor is pleased to show to
those who visit it because of their reverence for things of the past. It
possesses a bit of romance, too ; for here was born, and hero lived, Mary
Philipse, whose charms captivated the heart of young Washington, but
whose hand was given to anotlier, as we shall observe hereafter.

In the river, in front of Yonkers, the Half-Moon, Henry Hudson's

THK " UALF.MOOS.

irc-
las
the

ugo

exploring vessel, made her second anchorage after leaving New York Bay.
It was toward the evening of the 12th of September, 1609 ; the explorer
had then been several days in \hG yicinitj oi Man-na-hat-ta, as the Indians
called the island on which New "Xork stands, and had had some inter-
course with the natives. '* The twelfth," says " Master Ivet (Juet) of
the Lime House," \^ho wrote Hudson's journal, " faire and hot. In the

IMAGE EVAi.UATiON
TFST TARGET (MT-3)

,.^.

sJ- ■{

1.0 ^B^ 1^

I.I

11.25

>^ 1^ i?2

auuu

JA III 1.6

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STRUT

WEBSTEX.N.Y. 14580

(716) S73-4S03

4^ ^>

364

THE HUDSON.

afternoon, at two of the clocke, wee weighed, the winde being variable,
betweene the north and the north-west. So we turned into the Eiuer
two leagues, and- anchored. This morning, at ovr first rode in the Eluer,
there came eight-and-twentie Conoes full of men, women, and children, to
betray ys ; but we saw their intent, and suffered none of them to come
abord of vf . At tweluo of the clocke they departed ; they brought with
them Oystors and Beanes, whereof ■wee bought some. They have great
tobacco-pipes of Yellow Copper, and Pots of Earth to dresse their raeate
in." That night a strong tidal cvrrent placed the stern of the IIal/-Moo7t
up stream. That event, and the assurance of the natives that the waters
northward, upon w.^ch he had gazed with wonder and delight, came
from far beyond the mountains, inspired Hudson with great hope, for it
aiust be remembered that his errand was the discovery of a northern
passage to India. He now doubted not that the greaf; river upon which
he was floating flowed from ocean to ocean, and that his search was nearly
over, and would be speedily crowned with success.

A mile and a half below Yonkers, on the bank of the Hudson, is Font
Hill, formerly the residence of Edwin Forrest, the eminent American
tragedian The mansion io built of blue granite, in the English castel-
lated I'orm, a style not wholly in keeping with the scenery around it. It
would have been peculii\rly appropriate and imposing among the rugged
hills of the Highlands thirty or forty miles above. The building has six
towers, from which very extensive views of the Hudson and the sur-
rounding country may be obtained. The flag, or stai. tower, is seventy-
one feet in height,

To this delightful residence Mr. Forrest brought his bride. Miss
Catherine Sinclair, daughter of the celebrated Srotch vocalist, in 1838,
and for six years they enjoyed domestic and professional life in an eminent
degree. Unfortunately for his future peace, Mr. Forrest was induced to
visit England in 1844. He was accompanied by his wife. There he
soon became involved in a bitter dispute with the dramatic critic of the
London Examiner, and Macready the actor. This qiiarrel led to the
most sej'ious results. Out of it were developed the mob and th'^ bloodshed
of what is known, in the social history of the city of New York, as the
"Astor Place lliot," and with it commenced Mr. Forrest's domestic

THE HUDSON.

365

troubles, which ended, as all the world knows, in the pennanent separa-
tion of himself and wife. Font Hill, where he had enjoyed so much
happiness, lost its charms, and he sold it to the Roman Catholic Sisters of

-^"^--^--r^-^-

-- . .-^S-

vir—

^^^ttwl

lOM' Illl.L.

Charity, of the Convent and Academy of Mount St. Vincent. This insti-
tution was founded in 1847, and the academy was in 105th Street, between
the Fifth and Sixth Avenues, Now York. It is devoted to the instruction

360

THE HUDSON.

of youDg ladies. The community, numbering about two hundred Sisters
at the time of my visit, was scattered. Some were at Font Hill, and
others were at different places in the city and neighbourhood. The whole
were under the gcueral direction of Mother Superior Mary Angela Hughes.
At Font Hill they erected an extensive and elegant pile of buildings, of
which they took possession, and wherein they opened a school, on the

i!
t?!

^'r^^'^''::p<:^

1 ^.

MOUNT ST. VINCENT ACABliMY.

Ist of September, 1859. It was much enlarged in 1865. They had, in
1860, about one hursdrcd and fifty pupils, all boarders, to whom was
offered the opportunity of acquiring a thorough education. The chaplain
of the institution occupies the "castle." ,• '■ '

Two miles and a-half below Font Hill, or Mount St. Vincent, is Spyt
den Buy vol Creek, at the head of York or Manhattan Island. This is a

THE HUDSON.

367

narrow streara, winding through a little tortuous valley for a mile or
more, and connecting, at Kingsbridge, with the Harlem River, the
first formed by the inflowing of the tide waters of the Hudson, and
the last by the waters of the East River. At ebb-tide the currents
part at Kingsbridge. The view from the mouth of the Spyt den
Duyvel, over which the Hudson River Railway passes, looking either

tl'VT DI:N DL'iVEL CUI.KK.

across the river to the Palisades, as given in our sketch, or iiilunc'.,
embracing bold Bcrrian's Neck on the left, and the wooded llfcad of
Manhattan Island on the right, with the winding err 3k, tlic cultivated
ridge on the borders of Harlem River, and the Jieights of Fordhnm
beyond, present pleasant scenes for the artist's pencil. To these
natural scenes, history and romaDce lend the churra of their associations.

368

THE HUDSON.

Here, on the 2nd of October, 1608, Henry Hudson had a severe fight
with the Indians, who attacked the Half -Moon with arrows from canoes
and the points of land, as she lay at anchor in the sheltering mouth of
the creek. Here, too, while Governor Stuyvesant was absent on the
Delaware, nine hundred of the river Indians encamped, and menaced the
little town of New Amsterdam, at the lower extremity of the island, with
destruction. Here, according to Diedrick Knickerbocker's "History of
New York," Anthony Van Corlear, the trumpeter of Governor Stuyvesant,
lost his life in attempting to swim across the creek during a violent storm.
"The wind was high,'" says the chronicler, "the elements were in an
uproar, and no Charon could be found to ferry the adventurous sounder
of brass across the water. For a short time he vapoured like an impatient
ghost upon the brink, and then bethinking himself of the urgency of his
errand (to arouse the people to arms), he took a hearty embrace of his
stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across in spite of
the devil [en spyt den duyvel), and daringly plunged into the stream.
Luckless Anthony ! Scarcely had he buffeted half way over, when he
was observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the Spirit of the
waters. Instinctively ho put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a
vehement blast, sank for ever to the bottom ! The clangour of hia trumpet,
like that of the ivory horn of the renowned Paladin Orlando, when ex-
piring in the glorious field of Boncesvalles, rang far and wide through
the country, alarming the neighbours round, who hurried in amazement
to the spot. Here an old Dutch burgher, famed for his veracity, and
who had been a witness of the fact, related to them the melancholy
affair ; with the fearful addition (to which I am slow in giving belief),
that he saw the Duyvel, in the shape of a huge moss-bonker (a species
of inferior fish) seize the sturdy Anthony by the leg, and drag him
beneath the waves. Certain it is, the place, with the adjoining pro-
montory, which projects into Hudson, has been called Spyt den
Duyvel ever since."

During the war for independence, stirring events occurred in the
vicinity of the Spyt den Duyvel Creek. Batteries were erected on pro-
montories on each side of it, at its junction with the Hudson ; and in
Westchester County, in its immediate neighbourhood, many skirmishes

THE HUDSON.

369

took place between Cow Boys and Skinners, Whigs and Tories, British,
Hessians, and Indians.

A picturesque road passes along the foot of the "Westchester hills that
skirt the Spyt den Duyvel Valley, to the mouth of Tippett's Creek, which
comes flowing down from the north through a delightful valley, at the
back of Yonkcrs and the neighbouring settlements. This creek ■^as called
Mosh-u-la by the Indians, and the valley was the favourite residence of a
warlike Mohegan tribe. Its lower portion was the scene of almost con-
tinual skirmishing during a portion of the war for independence.

THE CENTURY HOfSE.

Tippett's Creek is crossed by a low bridge. A few yards beyond it is
Kingsbridge, at the head of the Harlem River, which here suddenly ex-
pands into lake-like proportions. The shores on both sides are beautiful,
and the view that opens towards Long Island, beyond the East River, is
charming.

Kingsbridge has always been a conspicuous point. Land was granted
there, in 1693, to Frederick Philipse, with power to erect a toll-bridge,
it being specified that it should be called The King's Bridge. This was

3 n

the only bridge that connected Manhattan Island with the Main, and
hence all travellers and troops were compelled to cross it, unless they had
boats for ferrying. Here, during the war for independence, hostile forced
were frequently confronted ; and from its northern end to tlie Croton
river, was the famous "Neutral Ground" during the struggle, whereon
neither Whig nor Tory could live in peace or safety. Upon the heights
each side of the bridge redoubts were thrown up ; and here, in January,
1777, a bloody conflict occurred between the Americans, under General
Heath, and a largo body of Hessian mercenaries, under Genera) Knyphausen.
The place was held alternately by the Americans and British ; and little
more than half a mile below the bridge an ancient story-and-a-half house
is yet standing, one hundred and twenty-five years 'old, which served as
head-quarters at different times for the officers of the two armies : it is
now a house of public entertainment, and is known as " PoLt's Century
House,"

CHAPTEK XX.

I HE Harlem River (called Mus-coo-ta hy the Indians),
which extends from Kingsbridge to the strait between
Long Island Sound and New York Bay, known as the
East River, has an average width of nine hundred
feet. In most places it is bordered by narrow marshy
flats, with high hills immediately behind. The scenery along its
whole length, to the villages of Harlem and M'ott Haven, is
picturesque. The roads on both shores aflPord pleasant drives,
and fine country seats and ornamental plec sure-grounds, add to
the landscape beauties of the river. A line of small steamboats, connect-
ing with the city, traverse its waters, the head of navigation being a few
yards above Post's Century Ixouse. The tourist will find much pleasure
in a voyage from the city through the East and Harlem Rivers.

The " High Bridge," or aqueduct over which the waters of the Croton
flow from the main land to Manhattan Island, crosses the Island at One
Hundred and Seventy-Third Street. It is built of granite. The aqueduct
is fourteen hundred and fifty feet in length, and rests upon arches supported
by fourteen piers of heavy masonry. Eight of these arches arc eighty
feet span, and six of theiu fifty feet. The height of the bridge, above
tide water, is one hundred and fourteen feet. The structure originally
cost about a million of dollars. Pleasant roads on both sides of the
Harlem lead to the High Bridge, where full entertainment for man and
horse maybe had. The "High Bridge" is a place of great resort in
pleasant weather for those who love the road and rural scenery.

Abroad, macadamized avenue, called the "Kingsbridge Road," leads
from the upper end of York Island to Manhattanville, where it connects
with and is continued by the " Blooniingdale Road," in the direction of
the city. The drive over this road is very agreeable. The winding

372

THE HUDSON.

avenue passes through a narrow valley, part of the way between rugged
hills, only partially divestctl of the forest, and ascends to the south-eastern
slope of Mount "Washington (the highest land on the island), on which
stands the village of Carmfinsvillc. At the upper end of this village, on
the high rocky bank of the Harlcra River, is a fine old mansion, known

THE HIGH BBIDOE.*

as the "Morris House," the residence, until her death in 1865, of the
widow of Aaron Burr, vice-president of the United States, but better
known as Madame Jumel, the name of her first husband. The mansion is

* This view is from tlie grounds in front of llio dwelling of Kicliard Carman, Esq., former proprietor
of nil fho land whereon the village of Carmansville stanils. lie is still owner of a very large estate in
that vicinilj'.

at One Hundred and Sixty-ninth Street. It is surrounded by highly
ornamented grounds, and its situation is one of the most desirable on the
island. It commands a fine view of the Harlem Eiver at the High
Bridge, to the village of Harlem and beyond ; * also of Long Island Sound,
the villages of Astoria and Flushing, and the green fields of Long Island.
Nearer are seen Harlem Plains, and the fine new bridge at Macomb's Dam.
This house was built before the old war for independence, by Koger
Morris, a fellow- soldier with Washington on the field of Monongohela,

THE HARLEM BITEB, FKOM THE MORBIS HOUSE.

where Braddock fell, in the summer of 1755. Morris was also "Washing-
ton's rival in a suit for the heart and hand of Mary, the heir of the lord
of Philipse's Manor. The biographer says that in February, 1756,
Colonel "Washington went to Boston to confer with Governor Shirley about
military aff'airs in Virginia. He stopped in Now York on his return, and

• Harlem, situated on the Harlem River, between the Eighth Avenue and East River, was an early
settlement on the island of Manhattan, by tlie Dutch. It was a flourishing village, chiefly bordering
t'le Third Avenue, but is now a part of tlie great metropolis.

THE HUDSON.

was then the guest of Beverly Robinson. !^[rs. Robinson's sister, Mary
Philipsc, was also a guest there, in the summer-time. Her bright eyes,
blooming cheeks, great vivacity, perfection of person, aristocratic
connexions, and prospective wealth, captivated the young Virginia
soldier. He lingered in her presence as long as duty would permit, and
would gladly have carried her with him to Virginia as his bride ; but his
extreme diffidence kept the momentous question unspoken, and Roger
Morris, his follow aide-de-camp in Braddock's military family, bore off the

THE MORRIS MAKSIOK.

prize. Morris, like his brother-in-law, Beverly Robinson, adhered to the
crown after the \merican colonies declared themselves independent
in 1776. "When, in the autumn of that year, the American army under
Washington encamped upon Harlem Heights, and occupied Fort Washing-
ton near, Morris fled for safety to Robinson's house in the Highlands, and
Washington occupied his elegant mansion as his head-quarters for awhile.
The house is preserved in its original form and materials, excepting where
external repairs have been necessary.

THE HUDSON.

375

At the lower extiemity of Carmansviilo, ami about a mile above
Manhattan ville, is a most beautiful domaiu, as 5 et almost untouched by
the hand of change. It is about eight miles from the heart of the city,
completely embowered, and presenting a pleasing picture at every point
of view. This was the homo of General Alexander Hamilton, one of the
founders of the llepublic, and is one of the few " uudesccrated " dAvelUng-

THE GKANGE.

places of the men of the last century, to be found on York Island. Near
the centre of the ground stands the house Hamilton built for his home,
and which he named " The Grange," from the residence of his grand-
father, in Ayrshire, Scotland. Then it was completely in the country —
now it is surrounded by the suburban residences of tho great city. It is

376

THE HUDSON.

situated about half- way between the Hudson and Harlem Eivcrs, and is
reached from the Kingsbridge road by a gravelled Jind shaded walk. Near
the house is a group of thirteen trees, planted by Hamilton himself, the
yecr before he was killed in a duel by Aaron Burr, and named,
respectively, after tho original thirteen States of the TJnion. All of them
are straight, vigorous trees, but one, and that, tradition says, ho chanced
to name South Carolina. It is crooked in trunk and branches, and
materially disfigures the group. It well typifies tho state of South
Carolina in its past history as? represented by its ruling class, which
was composed, to a great extent, of professional politicians, who were
arrogant, narrow, opposed to simple republican institutions, and longing
for an alteration in the fundamental principles of their government so as to
have political power centred in few great land and slave holders. This
class was always crooked, always discontented and turbulent, and finally,
in the year 1860, disgraced their State and made its name a by- word for
all time, by an attempt to overthrow the Bepublic, and establish upon its
ruins the dcopo*ism of an irresponsible oligarchy, whose basis shoulc" be
HUMAN SLAVERY ! They kindled a civil war which cost the nation the
lives of almost half a million of men, and nearly three thousand millions
of dollars.

The "Grange" is upon an elevation of nearly 200 feet above the
livers, and commands, through vistas, delightful views of Harlem Eiver and
Plains, the East Eiver and Long Island, and the fertile fields of Lower
"Westchester. It is just within tho outer lines of the entrenchments
thrown up by the Americans in 1776, and is in tho midst of the theatre of
the stirring events of that year.

Wc have now fairly entered upon Manhattan Island, in our joumeyings
from the Wilderness to the Sea, and are rapidly approaching tho
commercial metropolis of the -'ountiy, seated upon its southern portion,
where the waters of the Hudson, the East, and the Passaic Eivers
commingle in the magnificent harbour of New York.

This island — purchased by the Butch of the paintod savages, only two
centuries and a half ago, for the paltry sum of twenty-four dollars, paid
in traffic at a hundred per cont. profit — coiitains tenfold more wealth,
in proportion to its size, than any other on the face of the felobe. It is

THE HUDSON.

877

tliirifjen and a-half miles long, and two and a-half miles wide at its
greatest breadth. It was originally very roup;h and rocky, abounding in
swamps and conical bills, alternating with fertile spots.

Over the upper part of the island are many pleasant roads not yet
straightened into rectangular streets, and these afford fine recreative drives
for the citizens^ and stir:ing scenes when the lovers of fast horses, who
abound in the city, are abroad. The latter are seen in great numbers in
these thoroughfares every pleasant afternoon, when "Young America"
takes an airing.

Before making excursions over these ways, and observing their sur-
roundings, let us turn asitTe from the Kingsbridgo Eoad, in the direction
of the Hudson, and, following a winding avenue, note some of the private
rural residences that cover the crown and slopes of old Mount "Washington,
now called Washington Heights. The villas are remarkable for the taste
displayed in their architecture, their commanding locations, and the beauty
of the surrounding grounds derived from the mingled labour of art and
nature. As we approach the river the hills become steeper, the road
■•nore sinuous, the grounds more wooded, and the general scenery on land
and water more picturesque. One of the most charming of these
landscapes, looking in any direction, may be found upon the road just
above the Washington Heights railway station, near the delightful
residence of Thomas Ingraham, Esq. It our little sketch we are looking
up the road, and the slopes of the beautiful lawn in front of his house.
Turning hulf lound, we have glimpses of the Hudson, and quite
extended views of the bold scenery about Fort Lee, on the opposite
shore.

Following this road a few rods farther down the heights, we reach the
station-i.ouse of the Hudson River Railway, which stands at the southern
entrance to a deep rock excavation through a point of Mount Washington,
known for a hundred years or more as Jeffrey's Hook. This point has an
interesting revolutionary histjry in connection with Mount Washington.
At the beginning of the war, the great value, in a strategic j )intof view,
of Manhattan Island, and of the river itself — in its entire length to Fort
Edward — as a dividing line between New England and the remainder of
the colonies, was fully appreciated by the contending parties. The

3 c

378

THE HUDSON.

Americans adopted measures early to secure these, by erecting fortifications.
Mount Washington (so named at that time) was the most elevated land
upon tho island, and formidable military -works of earth and stone were

VIEW ON WASHIKGTON IIKIGHTS.

soon erected upon its crown and upon tho heights in tho vicinity from
Manhatta' \ille to Kingsbridge. The principal work was Fort "Washington.
The citai 1 was on the crown of Mount Washington, overlooking tho

iiiUttilifMtfiii

THE HUDSON.

379

country in every direction, and comprising within the scope of vision the
Hudson from the Highlands to the xiarbour of New York. The citadel,
with the outworks, covered several acres between One Hundred and
Eighty-first and One Hundred and Eighty-sixth Streets.

On the point of the chief promontory of Mount "Washington jutting
into the Hudson, known as Jeflfery's Hook, a strong redoubt was

I
■III

JKFFKRY'S HOOK.

constructed, as a cover to chevaux-de-frise and other obstructions placed in
the river between that point and Eort Lcc, to prevent the British ships
going up the Hudson. The remains of this redoubt, in the form of gi'assy
mounds covered with small cedars, are prominent upon the point, as seen
in the engraving above. The ruins of Fort Washington, in similar form,
were also very conspicuous until within a few years, and a flag staff

II 1

380

THE HUDSON.

marked the place of the citadel. But the ruthless hand of pride, forgetful
of the past, and of all patriotic allegiance to the most cherished traditions
of American citizens, has levelled the mounds, and removed the flag-staff;
and that spot, consecrated to the memory of valorous deeds and courageous
suffering, must now be sought for in the kitchen-garden or ornamental
grounds of some wealthy citizen, whose choice celery or bed of verbenas
has greater charms than the green sward f^f a hillock beneath which
reposes the dust of a soldier of the old war for independence !

A8VLUM FOR THK DEAP AND DUMB.

"Soldiers buried here?" inquires the startled resident. Yes; your
villa, your garden, your beautiful lawn, are all spread out over the dust
of soldiers, for all over these heights the blood of Americans, English-
men, and Germans flowed freely in the autumn of 1 776, when the fort
was taken by the British after one of the hardest struggles of the war.
More than two thousand Americans were captured, and soon filled the
loathsome prisons and prison-ships of New York.

Near the river-bank, on the south-western slope of Mount Washington,
is iho New York Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, one of several

retreats for the unfortunate, situated upon tke Hudson sliore of Manhattan
Island. It is one of the oldest institutions of the kind in the United
States, the act of the Legislature of New York incorporating it being dated
on the day (April 15, 1817) when the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb
at Hartford, Connecticut, was opened. The illustrious Dc Witt Clinton
was the first president of the association. Its progress was slow for
several years, when, in 1831, Mr. Harvey P. Peet was installed executive
head of the asylum, as principal : he infused life into the institution
immediately. Its affairs were administered by his skilful and energetic
hand during more than thirty years, and his services were marked by the
most gratifying results. In 1845, the title of President was conferred
upon Mr, Peet, and three or four years later he received the honorary
degree of Doctor of Laws. He was at the head of instruction and of the
family in the institution. Under his guidance many of both sexes, shut
out from participation in the intellectual blessings which are vouchsafed
to well-developed humanity, were newly created, as it were, and made to
experience, in a degree, the sensations of Adam, as described by
Milton : — •

" straight towards heaven my wondering eyes I turned,
And gazed awliile the ample slcy, till raised
By quick instinctive motion, up I sprung,
As thitherward endeavouring, and upright
Stood on my feet ; about me round I saw
Hill, dale, and shady woods, and sunny plains.
And liquid lapse of murmuring streams ; by these.
Creatures that lived, and moved, and walked, or )le\v ;
Birds on the branches warbling ; all things smiled ;
With fragrance and with jt)y my heart o'ertowed.
IMyself I then perused, and limb by limb
Surveyed, and sometimes went, and sometimes ran,
W^ith supple joints, as lively vigour led ;
But who I was, or where, or from what cause.
Knew not J to upcak I tried, nnd forthuith spoke :
My tongue obeyed, and readily could name
Whato'cr I saw."

The situation of the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb is a delightful
one. The lot comprises thirty-seven acres of land, between the Kings-
bridge Road and the river, about nine miles from the New York City
Hall. The buildings, five in number, form a quadrangle of two hundred

382

THE HUDSON.

and forty feet front, and more than three hundred feet in depth ; they
are upon a terrace one hundred and twenty-seven feet above the river,
and are surrounded hy fine old trees, and shrubbery. The buildings are
capable of accommo(Tating four hundred and fifty pupils, with their
teachers and superintendents, and the necessary domestics.

In the midst of a delightful grove of forest trees, a short distance bolow

AUDUBON'S BESIDENCE.

the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, is the dwelling of the late
J. J. Audubon, the eminent naturalist, where some of his family still
reside. Only a few years ago it was as secluded as any rural scene fifty
miles from the city ; now, other dwellings arc in the grove, streets have
been cut through it, the suburban village of Carmansville has covered the

THE HUDSON.

383

adjacent eminence, and a station of the Hudson River Eailway is almost
in front of the dwelling.

Audubon was one of the most remarkable men of his age, and his work
oa the " Birds of America " forms one of the noblest monuments ever
made in commemoration of true genius. In that great work, pictures of
birds, the natural size, are given in four hundred and eighty-eight plates.
It was completed in 1814, and at once commanded the highest admiration
of scientific men. Baron Cuvier said of it, — ** It is the most gigantic and
most magnificent monument that has ever been erected to Nature."
Audubon was the son of a French admiral, who settled in Louisiana, and
his whole life was devoted to his favourite pursuit. The story of that
life is a record of acts of highest heroism, and presents a most remarkable
illustration of the triumphs of perseverance.

A writer, who visited Mr. Audubon not long before his death, in ISol,
has left the following pleasant account of him and his residence near
Mount Washington : — , .

'* My walk soon brought a secluded countiy house into view, — a house
not entirely adapted to the nature of the scenery, yet simple and unpre-
tending in its architecture, and beautifully embowered amid elms and
oaks. Several graceful fawns, and a noble elk, were stalking in tho
shade of the trees, apparently unconscious of the presence of a few dogp,
and not caring for the numerous turkeys, geese, and other domestic
animals that gobbled and screamed around them. Nor did my own
approach startle the wild, beautiful creatures that seemed as docile as
any of their tame companions.

. "'Is the master at home?' I asked of a pretty maid-servant who
answered my tap at the door, and who, after informing me that he was,
led mo into a room on the west side of the broad hall. It was not, how-
ever, a parlour, or an ordinary reception room that I entered, but
evidently a room for work. In one corner stood a painter's easel, with a
half-finished sketch of a beaver on the paper ; on the other lay the skin
of an American panther. The antlers of elks hung upon the walls,
stuffed birds of every description of gay plumage ornamented the mantel-
piece, and exquisite drawings of field-mice, orioles, and woodpeckers,
■were scattered promiscuously in other parts of the room, across one end

1!
|i

1'' 'I]
" M

384

THE HUDSON.

of which a long rude table was stretched, to hold artist's materials, scraps
of drawing-paper, and immense folio volumes, filled with delicious
paintings of birds taken in their native haunts.

" * This,' said I to myself, * is the studio of the naturalist,' but hardly-
had the thought escaped me when the master himself made his appear-
ance. He was a tall, thin man, with a high, arched, and serene forehead,
and a bright, penetrating, grey eye ; his white locks fell in clusters upon
his sliouldcrs, but they were the only signs of age, for his form was
erect, and his step as light as that of a deer. The expression cf his face
was sharp, but noble and commanding, and there was something in it,
jjartly derived from the aquiline nose, and partly from the shutting of
the mouth, which made you think of the imperial eagle.

"His greeting, as he entered, was at once frank and cordial, and
showed you the sincere, true man. ' How kind it is,' he said, with a
slight French accent, and in a pensive tone, 'to come to see me, and how
wise, too, to leave that crazy city !' He then shook mo warmly by the
hand. *Do you know,' he continued, 'how I wonder that men can
consent to swelter and fret their lives away amid those hot bricks and
pestilent vapours, when the woods and fields are all so near ? It would
kill mo soon to be confined in such a prison-house, and when I am forced
to make an occasional visit there, it fills mc with loathing and sadness.
Ah I how often, when I have been abroad on the mountains, has my heart
risen in grateful praise to God that it was not my destiny to waste and
pine among those noisome congregations of the city!'"*

Audubon died at the beginning of 1851, at the age of seventy-one
years. His body was laid in a modest tomb in the beautiful Trinity
Cemetery, near his dwelling. This burial-place, deeply shaded by
original forest trees and varieties that have been planted, affords a most
delightful retreat on a warm summer's day. It lies upon the slopes of
the river bank. Foot-paths and carriage-roads wind through it in all
directions, and pleasant glimpses of the Hudson may be caught through
vistas at many point;!. In the south-western extremity of the giounds.

* " Hoiuca of American Authors."

THE HUDSON.

385

upon a plain granite doorway to a vault, may be seen, in raised letters,
the name of AtrDunoN.

The drive from Trinity Cemetery to Manhattanvillo is a delightful one.
The road is hard and smooth at all seasons of the year, and is shaded in
summer by many ancient trees that graced the forest. From it frequent
pleasant views of the river may bo obtained. There are some fine

VIEW IN TRINITY CEMETERY.

residences on both sides of the way, and evidences of the sure but stealthy
approach of the great city are perceptible.

Manhattanville, situated in the chief of the four valleys that cleave the
island from the Hudson to the East River, now a pleasant suburban
village, is destined to be soon swallowed by the approaching and rapacious
town. Its site on the Hudson was originally called Harlem Cove. It

3 D

386

THE HUDSON.

V I

was considered a place of strategic importance in the war for independence
and the war of 1812, and at both periods fortifications were erected there
to command the pass from the Hudson to Harlem Plains, to whose verge

i^^K,

MANUATTANVILLE FBOM CLAREMOXT.

the little village extends. Upon the heights near, the lloman Catholics
have two flourishing literary institutions, namely, the Convent of the
Sacred Heart, for girls, and the Academy of the Holy Infant, for boys.

ttnn

THE HUDSON.

387

Upon the high promontory overlooking the Hudson, on the south side
of Manhattanville, is Jones's Clareraont Hotel, a fashionable place of
resort for the pleasure-seekers who frequent the Bloon'ingdalc and Kings-
bridge roads on pleasant afternoons. At such times it is often thronged
■with visitors, and presents a lively appearance. The main, or older
portion of the building, was erected, I believe, by the elder Dr. Post,

CLAKE.VIONT.

:;s
le

early in the present century, as a summer residence, and named by him
Claremont. It still belongs to the Post family. It was an elegant
country mansion, upon a most desirable spot, overlooking many leagues
of the Hudson. There, more than fifty years ago, lived Viscount
Courtenay, afterwards Earl of Devon. He left England, it was reported,
because of political troubles. When the war of 1812 broke out, he

M'h

388

THE HUDSON.

returned thither, leaving his furniture and plate, which were sold at
auction. The latter is preserved with care by the family of the
purchaser. Courtcnay was a great "lion" in New York, for he was a
handsome bachelor, with title, fortune, and reputation — a combination
of excellences calculated to captivate the heart-desires of the opposite sex.

Clarcmont was the residence, for awhile, of Joseph Buonaparte, ex-king
of Spain, when he first took refuge in the United States, after the battle
of "Waterloo and the downfall of the Napoleon dynasty. Here, too,
Francis James Jackson, the successor of Mr. Erskine, the British minister
at "Washington at the opening of the war of 1812, resided a short time.*
He was familiarly known as '* Copenhagen Jackson," because of his then
recent participation in measures for the seizure of the Banish fleet by the
British at Copenhagen. Ho was politically and socially unpopular, and
presented a strong contrast to the polished Courtcnay.

Manhattanville is tho northern termination of the celebrated Blooming-
dale Road, which crosses the island diagonally from Union Stjuaro at
Sixteenth Street, to the high bank of tho Hudson ai One Hundred and
Fifteenth Street. It is a continuation of Broadway (the chief retail
business street of tho city), from Union Square to Harsonville, at Sixty-
Eighth Street. In that section it is called Broadway, and is compactly
built upon. Beyond Seventieth Street it is still called Bloomingdale
Iload — a hard, smooth, macadamised highway, broad, devious, and
undulating, shaded the greater portion of its length, made attractive by
many elegant residences and ornamental grounds, and thronged every fine
day with fast horses and light vehicles, bearing the young and the gay of
both sexes. The stranger in New York will have the pleasure of his
visit greatly enhanced by a drive over this road toward the close of a
pleasant day. Its nearest approach to the river is at One Hundred and
Fifteenth Street, at which point our little sketch was taken.

Among the places of note on the Bloomingdale Road is the New York
Asylum for the Insane, Elm Park, and the New York Orphan Asylum,
The former is situated on the cast side of the roar* where it approaches
nearest the Hudson, the grounds, containing forty acres, occupying the
entire square between Tenth and Eleventh Avenues, and One Hundred
and Fifteenth and One Hundred and Twentieth Streets. The institution

■ta

THE HUDSON.

389

was opened in the year 1821, for the reception of patients. It may bo
considered a development of the Lunatic Asylum founded in 1810. Its
establishment upon more rational principles is duo to the benevolent
Thomas Eddy, a Quaker, who proposed to the governors of the old
institution a course of maral treatment more thorough and extensive than
had yet been tried.

The place selected for the asylum, near the village of Bloomingdalr is

VIEW ON BLOOMINODALE ROAD.

unequalled. The ground is elevated and dry, and affords extensive and
delightful views of the Hudson and the adjacent city and country. The
buildings are spacious, the grounds beautifully laid out, and ornamented
with shrubbery and flowers, and every arrangement is maae with a view
to soothe and heal the distempers of the mind. The patients are allowed

390

THE HUDSON.

to busy themselves "with -vrork or chosen amusements, to walk in the
garden or pleasure-grounds, ..nd to ride out on pleasant days, proper
discrimination being always observed.

A short distance below the Asylum for the Insane, on the east side of
the Bloomingdale Road, is the fine old country seat of the Apthorpe
family, called Elm Park. It is now given to the uses of mere devotees
of pleasure. Here the Germans of the city congregate in great numbers

ASYLUM FOB THE INSANE.

during hours of leisure, to drink beer, tell stories, smoke, sing, and enjoy
themselves in their peculiar way with a zeal that seems to be inspired by
Moore's idea that —

' Pleasure's the only noble end,
To which all humr>n powers should tend."'

Elm Park was the head-quarters of Sir William Howe, at the time of the
battle on Hrrlem Plains, in the autumn of 1776, Washington had
occupied it only the day before, and. had there waited anxiously and

wMiiiiiiiipaMiii

impatiently for the arrival of the fugitive Americana under General
Putnam, who narrowly escaped capture when the British took possession
of the city. The Bloomingdale Roau, along which they moved, then
passed through almost continuous woods in this vicinity. Washington
himself had a very narrow escape here, for he left the house only a few
minutes before the advanced British column took possession of it

Elm Park, when the accompanying sketch was made (June, 1861),

KLM PAUK IN li*«l

' *'"^- ^a-swy^^

was a sort ot camp oi instruction for volunteers for the army of the
Repuolic, then engaged in crushing the great lebellion, in favour of
human slavery and political and social despotism. "NVhen I visited it,
companies were actively drilling, and the sounds of the fife and drum
were mingled with the voices of mirth and conviviality. It was an hour

392

TRE HUDSON.

after a tempest had passed by which had prostrated one or two of the
old majestic trees which shade the ground and the broad entrance lane.
These trees, composed chiefly of elms and locusts, attest the antiquity of
the place, and constitute the lingering dignity of a mansion where wealth
and social refinement once dispensed the most generous hospitality.
Strong are the contrasts in its earlier and later history.

CHAPTER XXI.

^'\ ETWEEN the Bloomingdaie Road and the Hudson, and
Seventy-third and Seventy-fourth Streets, is the New
York Orphan Asylum, one of the noblest charities iu
the land. It is de8ig:^ed for the care and culture of
little children without parents or other protectors.
Here a homo and refuge are found for little ones who have
been cast upon the cold charities of the world. From one
hundred and fifty to Lvvo hundred of these children of misfor-
tune are there continually, with their physical, moral, intel-
lectual, and spiritual wants supplied. Their home i& a beautiful one.
The building is of stone, and the grounds around it, sloping to the river,
comprise about fifteen aero j. This institution is the child of the " Society
for the Relief of Poor Widows with Small Children," founded in 1806 by
several benevolent ladies, among whom were the sainted Isabella Graham,
Mrs. Hamilton, wife of the eminent General Alexander Hamilton, and
Mrs. Joanna Bethunc, daughter of Mrs. Graham. It is supported by
private bequests and annual subscriptions.

There is a similar establishment, called the Lcuke and Watts Orphan
House, situated above the New York Asylum, on One Hundred and
Eleventh and One Hundred and Twelftli Streets, between the Ninth and
Tenth Avenues. It is surrounded by twenty-six acres of land, owned by
the institution. The building, which was first opened for the reception
of orphans in 1842, is capable of accommodating about two hundred and
fifty children. It was founded by John George Leake, who bequeathed
a large sum for the purpose. His executor, .iohn Watts, also made a
liberal donation for the same object, and in iionour of these benefactors
the institution was named.

These comprise the chief public establishments for the unfor^^anate in
the city of New York, near the Hudson river. There are many others

3 E

394

THE HUDSON.

in the metropolis, but they do not properly claim a place in these
sketches.

Let us here turn towards the interior of the island, drive to the verge
of Harlem Plains, and then make a brief tour through the finished portions
of the Central Park. Our road will be a little unpleasant a part of the
way, for this portion of the island is yet in a state ''f transition from
original roughness to the symmetry produced by art and labour.

Here, on the southern verge of the Plains, we will leave our waggon,
and climb to the summit of the rocky bluff, by a winding path up a steep

ORPHAN Asyi.rM.

hill covered with bushes, and take our stand by the side of an old square
tower of bri' k, built for a redoubt during the war of 1812, and now used
as a powder-liouse. The view northward, over Harlem Plains, is de-
lightful. From the road at our feet stretch away numerous "truck"
gardens, from which the city draws vegetable supplies. On the left is
seen Manhattanville and a glimpse of the Palisades beyond the Hudson.
In the centre, upon the highest visible point, is the Convent of the Sacred
Heart ; and towards the right is the Croton Aqueduct, or High Bridge,
over the Harlem river. The trees on the extreme right mark the line of

lese

tons
the
rem

;on,
tecp

iiaie
used
de-
ck"
ft is
son.
crcd

le of

THE HUDSON.

395

the race-course, a mile in length, beginning at Luflfs, the great resort for
sportsmen. On this course, tlie trotting abilities of fast horses are tried
by matches every fine day.

In our little view of the Plains and the high ground beyond, is included
the theatre of stirring and very important events of the revolution, in the
autumn of 1776. Here was fought the battle of Harlem Plains, that
saved the American army on Harlem Heights ; and yonder, in the dis-
tance, was the entrenched camp of the Americans between Manhattanville

HARLEM PLAINS.

and Mount "Washington, within which occurred most of the sanguinary
scenes in the capture of Fort "Washington by the British and Hessians.

Our rocky observatory, more than a hundred feet above tide-water,
overlooking Harlem Plains, is included in the Central Park. Let us
descend from it, ride along the verge of tlio Plain, and go up cast of
McGowan's Pass at about One Hundred and Ninth Street, where the
remains of Forts Fish and Clinton are yet ""cry prominent. These were
built on the site of the fortifications of the revolution, during the war of

';J

1812. Here wo enter among the hundreds of men employed in fashioning
the Central Park. "What a chaos is presented ! Men, teams, harrows,
Wasting, trenching, tunnelling, hridging, and every variety of lohoui^j
needful in the transfoi-ming process. Wo pick our way over an almost
impassahlo road among l -ulders and hlasted rocks, to the great artificial
basin of one hundred acres, now nearly completed, which is to he called

VIEW IN CENTRAL PARK,'

the Lake of Man-a-hat-ta. It will really he only an immense tank of
Croton water, for the use of the city. We soon reach the finished portions
of tho park, and are delighted with the promises of future grandeur and
beauty.

• Tliis is a view of u portion of tlie Skating-rond from a high point of tlic Kanible.

THE HUDSON.

397

It is impossible, in the brief space allotted to these sketches, to give
even a faint appreciative idea of the ultimate appearance of this park,
according to the designs of Messrs. Olmstcad and Vaux. We may only
convey a few hints. The park was suggested by the late A. J. Downing,
in 1851, when Kingsland, mayor of the city, gave it his official recom-
mendation. Within a hundred days the Legislature of the State of New
York granted the city permission to lay out a park ; and in February,
1856, 733 acres of land, iu the centre of the island, was in possession of
the civic authorities for the purpose. Other purchases for the same end
were made, and, finally, the area of the park was extended iu the direc-
tion of Harlem Plains, so as to include 843 acres. It is more than two
and a-half miles long, and half a mile v, ide, between the Fifth and Eighth
Avenues, and Fifty- ninth and One Hundred and Tenth Streets. A great
portion of this space was little better than rocky hills and marshy hollows,
much of it covered with tangled shrubs and vines. The rocks are chiefly
upheavals of gneiss, and the soil is composed mostly of alluvial deposits
filled with boulders. Already a wonderful change has been wrought.
Many acres have been beautified, and the visitor now has a clear idea of
the general character of the park, Avhen completed.

The primary purpose of the park is to provide the best practicable means
of healthful recreation for the inhabitants of the citj-, of all classes. Its
chief feature will be a 'Sh^\\^ cr bread walk of gravel and grass, 208 feet
wide, and a fourth of a mile long, planted with four rows of the magnifi-
cent American elm trees, with seats and other requisites for resting and
lounging. This, as has been suggested, will be New York's great out-of-
doors Hall of Ee-union. There will be a carriage-way more than nine
miles iu length, a bridle-path or equestrian road more than five miles
long, and walks for pedestrians full twenty-one miles iu length. These
will never cross each other. There will also be traffic roads, ciossing the
park in straight lines from cast to west, which will pass through trenches
and tunnels, and be seldom seen by the pleasure-seekers in the park.
The whole length of roads and walks will be almost forty miles.

The Croton water tanks already there, and the new one to bo made,
will jointly cover 150 acres. There are several other smaller bodies of
water, in their natural basins. The principal of these is a beautiful,

398

THE 3UDS0N.

irregular lake, known as the Skating-Pond. Pleasure-boats glide over it
in summer, and in winter ;'t is thronged with skaters.* One portion of
the Skating-Pond is devoted exclusively to the gentler sex. I'hesc, of
nearly all ages and conditions, throng the ice whenever the skating is
good.

Open spaces arc to be left for military parados, and large plats of turf
for games, such as ball and cricket, will bo laid down — about twenty
acres for the former, and ten for the latter ; and it is intended to have a
beautiful meadow in the centre of the park.

There will be arches of cut stone, and numerous bridges of iron and
stone (the latter handsomely ornamented and fashioned in the most costly
style), spanning the traffic-roads, ravines, and ponds. One of the most
remarkable of these, forming a central architectural feature, is the Terrace
Bridge, at the north end of the Mull, already approaching completion.
This bridge covers a broad arcade, where, in alternate niches, will bo
statues and fountains. Below will be a platform, 170 feet wide, ex-
tending to the border of the Skating-Pond. It will embrace a spacious
basin, with a fine fountain jet in its centre. This structure will be
composed of exquisitely wrought light brc"vn freestone, and granite.

Such is a general idea of the park, the construction of which was begun
at the beginning of 1858; it is expected to be completed in 1864 — a
period of only about six years. Tlie entire cost will not fall much short
of 12,000,000 dollars. As many as four thousand men and several
hundred horses have been at work upon it at one time.f

From the Central Park — -where beauty and symmetry in the hands of
Nature and Art already perfoimed noble assthctic service for the citizens
of New York — let us ride to "Jones's Woods," on the eastern borders of
the island, where, until recently, the silence of the country forest might
have been enjoyed almost within sound of the hum of the busy town.

» Tlie Xew Yoik S/iirif «/ the Times, referring to this lake, said:— "From the commencement of
skuting to tlic 21th day of February (1861) was fixty-tliree days; there was skating on forty-flve days,
and no skating on eighteen days. Of visitors to the inind, the least number on any one day was one
hundred; tlie largest number on one day (Christmas) estimated at 100,000; aggregate number during
the season, 510,000; average number on skating days, 12,000."

t This brief description was written, anil the accompanying sketches were made, in 1S61. Tlio
great work of fu^hioniug this Paik, leaving Nature, in the growth of trees and shrubbery, to enrich and
beautify it, is now (1866) nearly completed.

THE HUDSON.

399

But here, as everywhere else, on the upper part of Manhattan Island, the
early footprints in the march of improvement are seen. As we leave the
beautiful arrangement of the park, the eye immediately encounters scenes
of perfect chaos, where animated and inanimated nature combine in
making pictures upon memory, never to be forgotten. The opening and
grading of new streets produce many rugged bluffs of earth and rock ;
and upon these, whole \-illagcs of squatters, who are chiefly Irish, may

THK TKRRACE BRIDGE AND MALL.

be seen. These inhabitants have the most supreme disregard for law or
custom in planting their dwellings. To them the land seems to " lie out
of doors," without visible owners, bare and unproductive. "Without
inquiry they take full possession, erect cheap cabins upon the "public
domains," and exercise "squatter sovereignty" in an eminent dogree,
until some innovating owner disturbs their repose and their title, by

undermining their castles — for in New York, as in England, "every
man's house is his casthy These form the advanced guard of the growing
metropolis ; and so eccentric is Fortune in the distribution of her favours
in this land of general equality, that a dweller in these ** suburban
cottages," where swine and goats are seen instead of deer and blood-cattle,
may, not many yeai's in the future, occupy a palace upon Central Park —
perhaps, upon the very spot where he now uses a pig for a pillow, and
breakfasts upon the milk of she-goats. In a superb mansion of liis own,

?i>^

.^JS^^.

"=tfN;':

A SQUATTER VILLAGE.

within an arrow's flight of Madison Park, lived a middle-aged man in
1861, whose childhood was thus spent among the former squatters in that
quarter.

" Jones's "Woods," formerly occupying the space between the Third
Avenue and the East River, and Sixtieth and Eightieth Streets, arc
rapidly disappearing. Streets have been cut through them, clearings for
buildings have been made, and that splendid grove of old forest trees a
few years ago, has been changed to clumps, giving shade to large numbers

THE HUDSON.

401

of pleasure-seekers during the hot months of summer, and the deliglitful
weeks of early autumn. There, in profound retirement, in an elegant
mansion on the bank of the East River, lived David Provoost, better

*■*

PROVOOST S TOMB— JONES'S WOODS.

known to the inhabitants of New York — more than a hundred years ago —
as "Eeady-money Provoost." This title he acquired because of the
sudden increase of his wealth by the illicit trade in which some of the

a T

402

THE HUDSON.

colonists were then engaged, in spite of the vigilance of the mother
country. He murricd tlie widow of Jumcs Alexander, and mother of
Lord Stirling, an eminent American officer in the old war for indepen-
dence. In a family vault, cut in a rocky knoll at the request of his first
wife, he was buried, and his remains were removed only when it was
evident that they would no longer be respected by the Commifsioner of
Streets. It is now a dilapidated ruin near the foot of Seventy-first Street.
The marble slab that he placed over the vault in memory of his wife (and
which commemorates him also) lies neglected, over the broken walls.*
The fingers of deatruction are busy there.

The old Provoost mansion is gone, and with it has departed the quiet
of the scene. Near its site, large assemblages of people listen to music,
hold festivals, dance, partake of refreshments of almost every kind, and
fill the ail* with the voices of mirth. The Gennans, who love the open
air, go thither in large numbers ; vjxd tents wherein laffer bier is sold, form
conspicuous objects in that still half sylvan retreat. There Blondiu
walked his rope at fearful heights, among the tall tulip trees ; and there,
in autumn, the young people may yet gather nuts from the hickory trees,
and gorgeous leaves from the birch, the chestnut, and the maple. But
half a decade will not pass, before "Jones's Woods" will be among the
things that have passed away.

A little beyond this, at Eighty- sixth Street, a road leads down to
Astoria Ferry, on the East River, a short distance below the mouth of
the Harlem River. This is a great thoroughfare, as it leads to many
pleasant residences on Long Island, and the delightful roads in that
vicinity. From this ferry may be obtained a fine view of Mill Rock in
the East River, Halkti 's Point, the village of Astoria, and other places
of interest in the Viciuity of a dangerous whirlpool, named by the Dutch
Ilelle-gat (Hell-hole), now called Hell-gate. It is no longer dangerous
to navigators, the sunken rocks which formed the whirlpool having been
removed in 1852, by submarine blasting, in which electricity was em-

* Tlie slab bears (lie folloviiit; iiucriptiuu : •' Joan'Nau Rvkdebs, who was tlie inont loving wife of
Uaviil Provoost. It was lier will to be interred in lliia hill. Obitus 8 Xembcr, 1740, aged 43 yeais."
'•Sutred to the memo y of David Pbovoost, who died Oct. 19tli, 1781, aged 90 years."

ployed. This is an irteresting historic locality. Here the town records
of Newport, Rhode Island, carried away by Sir Henry Clinton, were
submerged in 1779, when the British vessel that bore them was wrecked
near the vortex. They were recovered. Here, during the revoluti n,
the British frigate Jfuzzar was wrecked, and sunk in deep water, having
on Ijoard, it was believed, a large amount of specie, destined for the use

VIKW NEAR IIELL-OATE.

of the British troops in America. On Mill Rock, a strong block-house
was erected during the war of 1812; and on Hallett's Point, a military
work called Fort Stevens was constructed at the same time.

Near Hell-gate the Harlem River enters the East River, and not far
distant are Ward's and Randall's Islands. These belong to the corpora-
tion of New York. The former contains a spacious emigrants' hospital,

THE HUDSON.

and the latter nursery schools for poor children, and a ^^)enal house of
refuge for juvenile delinquents. This is a delightful portion of the East
Kiver, and hore the lover of sport may find good rishing at proper seasons.

Ward's Island contains about 200 acres, and lies in the East Kiver,
from One Hundred and First to One Hundred and Fifteenth Streets
inclusive. The Indians called it Ten-hn-as, It was purchased from
them by First Director Van Twilles, in 1637. A portion of the island is ^
a potter's field, where about 2,500 of the poor and strangers are buried
annually. 'J'he island is supplied with Croton water. A ferry connects
it with the city at One Hundred and Sixth Street. Randall's Island,
nearly north from Ward's, close by the Westchester shore, was the resi-
dence of Jonathan Kandall for almost fifty years ; he purchased it in 1754.
It has been called, at different times. Little Bam Island, Belle Isle,
Talbot's Island, and Montressor's Island. The city purchased it, in 1835,
for 50,000 dollars. The House of Bcfuge is on the southern part of the
island, opposite One Hundred and Seventeenth Street. There youthful
criminals are kept free from the contaminating influence of old offenders,
arc taught useful trades, and are oontinually subjected to r'^forming
influences. Good homes are furnished them when they leave the institu-
tion, and in this way the children of depraved parents who have entered
upon a career of crime, have their feet set in the paths of virtue, usefulness,
and honour.

N^ar the southern border of "Jones's Woods" is "The Coloured
Home," where the indigent, sick, and ii.firm of African blood have their
physical, moral, and religious wants supplied. It is managed by an
association of women, and is sustained by the willing hands of the
tenevolent.

A little farther south, on the high bank o*^ the East River, at Fif.j •
first Street, is the ancient family mansion of a branch of the Beekman
family, whoso ancestor accompanied Governor Stuy vcsant to New
Amsterdam, now New York. There General Howe made his head-
quarters after the battle on Long Island and his invasion of New York,
in 1776; and there he was made (Sir William Howe, b';cause of those
events, by knightly ceremonies performed by brother officers, at the com-
mand of the king. Captain Nathan Hale, the spy,' whose case and Major

Andre's have been compared, was brought before General Howe at this
place soon after his arrest. He was confined during the night in the
conservatory, and the next morning, without even the form of a trial,
was handed over to Cunningham, the inhuman provost marshal, who
hanged him upon an apple-tree, under circumstances of peculiar crueliy.
The act was intended to strike the minds of the Americans with terror ;
it only served to exasperate and strengthen them.*

The old Beekman mansion, with its rural surroundings, remained' unin-
vaded by the Oommissioner of Streets until about ten years ago. I re-
member with pleasure a part of the day that I spent there with the
hospitable owner. Then there were fine lawns, with grand old trees,
blooming gardens, the spacious conservatory in which Hale was confined,
and an ancient sun-dial that had marked the hours for a century. Over
the elaborately-wrought chimney-pieces in the drawing-room were the
arms of the Beekman family ; and in an outhouse was a coach bearing
the same arms, that belonged to the first proprietor of the mansion. It
was a fine old relic of New York aristocracy a hundred years ago, and
one of only three or four coaches owned in the city at that time. Such
was the prejudice against the name of coach — a sure sign of aristocracy —
that Robert Murray, a wealthy Quaker merchant, called his "a leathern
conveniency." But the beauty of the Beekman homestead has departed ;
the ground is reticulated by streets and avenues, and the mansion is left
alone in its glory.

Directly opposite to the Beekman mansion is the lower end of Blackwell's
Island, a narrow strip of land in the East Iliver, extending to Eighty-
eighth Street, and contai;iing 120 acres. Beyond it is seen the pretty
village of Ravenswood, on the Long Island shore. The Indians called
Blackwell's Island Min-na-han-nock. It was also na: aed Manning Island,
having been owned by Captain John Manning, who, in 1G72, betrayed

• Nathan !Iale was an exeniiilary young men, of a go«l Connecticut family. Washington was
anxious to ascertain tlie cxi ct position and comiition of tho Britisli anny on Long laland, and Hale
volunteered t obtain it. He •was arrested, and consigned to Cunningham for execution. He was
refused the sei'vices of a clergyman and the use of a BiL.e, and letters tl'.at he wrote during the night
to his mother and sisters were destroyed by the inhuman marshal. His lost words were,— "I only
regret that I have but one life to give to my country."

406

THE HUDSON.

the fort at New York into the hands of the Dutch.* In 182£ it was
purchased by the city of New York, of Joseph Blackwell, and appropriated
to public uses. Upon it are situated the almshouse, almshouse hospital,
penitentiary hospital, New York city small-pox hospital, workhouse, city
penitentiary, and New York lunatic asylum. These are under the super-

TITE DKKKMAN MANSION.

vision of a board of ten r,ovornors. There is a free ferry to the island, at
the foot of Sixty-first Street.

Turtle Bay, at Forty-seventh Street — from the southern border of

» Mnmiinff wiia bribed to commit tliotroRson. lie cscnpod piinislimcnt tliroiiBli tbe intervention of
Ilia k'mfc, Clmrlea IF., wlio, it wo? belioveil, Bhiircd in the bribe.

',vhich our sketch of Ulackwell's Island was taken — was a theatre of some
Stirling scenes during the revolution. Until within a few years it re-
mained in its primitive condition — a sheltered cove with a gravelly beach,
and high rocky shores covered with trees and shrubbery. Here the
British government had a magazine of military stores, and these the Sons
of Liberty, as the corl} Eepublicans were called, determined to seize, in

TLIULK UAV AND BLACKWiiliL'S I8LANU.

i's-

July, 1775. A puity, under the direction of active members of that
association, proceeded stealthily by water, in the evening, from Greenwich,
Connecticut, passed the dangerous vortex of Hell-gate at twilight, and at
midnight surprised and captured the guard, and seized tlie stores. The
old storehouse in which they were deposited was yet standing, in 1861,
a venerable relic of the past among the busy scenes of the present.

!•!!

408

THE HUDBON.

At Turtle Bay wc fairly meet the city in its gradual movement along
the shores of the East River, Below this point almost every relic of the
past, in Future and Art, has been swept away by pick and powder ; and
whaiTes, store-houses, manufactories, and dwellings, arc occupying places
where, only a few years ago, were pleasant country seats, far away from
the noise of the town. Our ride in this direction will, therefore, havo no
special attractions, so let us turn towards the Hudson again, and visit
some points of inter ost in the c .'ntral and lower portions of the island
within the limits of the regulated streets. The allotted space allows us
to take only glimpses at some of the most prcminent points and objects.

?5£^.:';JiS*fciaftar^i

THE BESKRVOIR, FIFTH AVENUE.

The great distributing reservoir of the Croton water, upon Murray
Hill, between Fortieth and Forty-second Streets, and Fifth and Sixth
Avenues, challenges our attention and admiration. Up to and beyond
this point the Fifth Avenue— the street of magnificent palatial residences
— is completed, scarcely a vacant lot remaining upon its borders. The
reservoir stands in solemn and marked contrast to these ornamental struc-

THE HUDSON.

409

turos, and rich and gay accompaniments. Its walls, in Egyptian style,
are of dark granite, and average forty-four feet in height above the
adjacent streets. Upon the top of the wall, which is reached by massive
steps, is a broad promenade, from which may be obtained very extensive
views of the city and the surrounding country. This is made secure by a

FIt'TU AVENUE UOTKL, MADISON PABK.

strong battlement of granite on the outside, and next to the water by an
iron fence.

The reservoir covers an area of two acres, and its tank capacity is over
twenty millions of gallons. The water was first let into it on the 4th of
July, 1842. On the 14th of October following it was distributed over
the town, and the event was celebrated on that day by an immense

■ p' I PR

military and civic procession. Such a display had never been seen in
New York since the mingling of the waters of the Great Lake and the
Hudson River, through the Erie Canal, was celebrated in 1825.

At the request of the Corporation of the City of New York, George P.
Morris wrote the following Ode, which was sung near the fountain then
playing in the City Hall Park, by the members of the New York Sacred
Music Society : —

THE CBOTON ODE.

Gushing from this living fountain,

Music pours a falling strain.
As the goddess of the mountain

Comes rith all her sparkling train.
From her grotto springs advancing,

Glittering in her feathery spray,
Woodland fays beside her dancing.

She pursues her winding way.

II.

Gently o'er tlie rippling water.

In her coral shallop bright.
Glides tlie rock-kings dove-eyed daughter.

Decked in robes of virgin white.
Nymphs and Naiads sweetly smiling,

Urge her bark with pearly hand,
Merrily the sylph beguiling

From the nooks cf fairy-land.

III.

Swimming on the snow-cui-led billow,

See the river spirits fair
Lay their cheeks, as on a pillow.

With the foam-beads in their hair.
Tlius attended, hither wending,

Floats the lovely Oread now,
Eden's arch of promise bending

Over her translucent brow.

ir.

Hail the wanderer from a far land 1

Bind her flowing tresses up !
Crown her with a fadeless garland.

And with crystal brim the cup ;
From her haunts of deep seclusion,

Let Intemperance greet her too.
And the heat of his delusion

Sprinkle with this mountain-dew.

THE HUDSON.

411

Water leaps as if delighted,

Wliile her conquered foes retire !
Pale Contagion Hies affriglited

With the baffled demon Fire !
Safety dwells in her dominions,

Hcullh and Beauty with her move,
And entwine their circling ptnions

In a sisterhood of love.

VI.

Water shouts a glad hosar.na !

Bubbles up the earth to bless !
Cheers it like the precious manna

In the barren wilderness.
Here we wondering gaze, assembled

Like the grateful Hebrew band.
When the hidden fountain trembled,

And obeyed the prophet's wand.

vn.
Bound the aqueducts of storj'.

As the mists of Lethe tlirong,
Crofon's waves in all their glory

Troop in melody along.
Ever sparkling, bright, and single.

Will this ruek-ribbed stream appear,
When posterity shall mingle

Like the gathered waters here.

''i

The waters of the Croton flow from the dam to the distributing reser-
voir, forty miles and a half, through a covered canal, made of stone and
brick, at an average depth of 2| feet. The usual flow is about 30,000 000
of gallons a day; ita capacity is 60,000,000. It passes through sixteen
tunnels m rock, varying from 160 to 1,263 feet. In Westchester county
It crosses twenty-five streams, from 12 to 70 feet below the line of grade
besides numerous small brooks furnished with culverts. After crossing
the Harlem River over the high bridge already described, it passes the
Manhattan valloy by an inverted siphon of iron pipes, 4, 1 80 feet in length
and the Clendening valley on an aqueduct 1,900 feet. It then enters
the first receiving reservoir now in the Central Park, which has a capacity
of 150,000,000 gallons. In a hygienic and economic view, the importance
of this great work cannot be estimated; in insurance alone it caused the
reduction of 40 cents on every 100 dollars in the annual rates. It is
estimated that the capacity of the Croton River is sufficient to supply the

412

THE HUDSON.

city with a population of 5,000,000. The ridge line, or water-shed, en-
closing the Croton valley ahove the dam, is 101 miles ia length. The
stream is 39 miles in length, and its tributaries 136 miles.* The total
area of the valley is 352 square miles ; within it are thirty-one natural
lakes and ponds.

From the reservoir wc ride down Fifth A.venuc, the chief fashionable

worth's mokvment.

quarter of the metropolis. For two miles we may pass between houses
of the most costly description, built chiefly of brown freestone, some of it

* The principal one of llie remote sources of the Croton River is a spring near the road side, not far
from tlie liouse of William Hoog, on Quaker Hill, in the town of Pawling. The spring is by the side of
a stone fence, with a barrel-curb, and is 1,300 feet above tide water.

mmm

THE HUDSON.

413

elaborately rarved. Travellers agree that in no city in the world can be
found an equal number of really splendid mansions in a siugle street ;
they are furnished, also, in princely style. The side-walks are flagged
with heavy blue stone, or granite, and the street is paved with blocks of
the latter material. At Madison Square, between Twenty-third and
Twenty-sixth Streets, it is crossed diagonally by Broadway, and there, as
an exception, are a few business establishments. At the intersection, and
fronting Madison Park, is the magnificent Fifth Avenue Hotel, built of
white marble, and said to be the largest and most elegant in the world.
As we look up from near the St. Germain, this immense house, six stories
in height, is seen on the left, and the trees of Madison Park on the right.
In the middle distance is the "Worth House, a large private boarding
establishment, and near it the granite monument erected by the city of
New York to the memory of the late Gene/al William J. Worth, of the
United States army.

This is the only public monument in the city of New "Sork, except a
mural one to the memory of General Montgomery, in the front wall of
St. Paul's Church. It is of Quincy granite ; i;he apex is fifty-one feet
from the ground, and the smooth surface of the shaft is broken by raised
bands, on which are the names of the battles ii which General Worth
had been engaged. On the lower section of the shaft are representations
of military trophies in relief. General Worth was an aide-de-camp of
General Scott in the battles of Chippewa and Niagara, in the summer of
1814, and went through the war with Mexic3 with distinction. His
name holds an honourable place among the military heroes of his country.
The monument was erected in 1858.

CHAPTER XXII.

K OWN Broadway, a few streets below the Fifth Avenue
Hotel, is Union Park, whoso form is an ellipse. It
is at the head of Old Broadway, at Fourteenth Street,
and is at such an elevation that the Hudson and East
Rivers may both be seen by a spectator on its
Fourteenth Street front. It is a small enclosure, with a large
fountain, and pleasantly shaded with young trees. Only a ft .r
years ago this vicinity was an open common, and where Union
Park is was a high hill. On its northern side is the Everett
House, a large, first-class hotel, named in honour of Edward
Everett, the American scholar and statesman, who represented his country
at the Court of St. James's a few years ago. On it,5 southern side is the
Union Park Hotel, and around it aro houses that were first-class a dozen
years ago. In one of the four triangles outside the square is a bronze
equestrian statue of Washington, by H. K. Brown, an American sculptor,
standing upon a high granite pedestal, surrounded by heavy iron railings.
This is the only public statue in the city of New York, if we except a small
sandstone one in the City Hall Park, and a marble one of William Pitt,
at the corner of Franklin Street and West Broadway, which stood at the
junction of Wall and William Streets, when the old war for independence
broke out. The latter is only a torso, the head and arms having been
broken off by the British soldiery after Sir William Howe took possession
of the city in the autumn of 177G.* In our little picture we look up the
Fourth Avenue, which extends to Harlem, and from which proceed two
great railways, namely, the Harlem, leading to Albany, and the New
Haven, that connects with all the railways in New England. On the
left, by the side of Union Park, is seen a marquee, the head-quarters of

THE HUDSON.

415

u regiment of Zouave volunteers for the United States army. These
signs of war might then be seen in all parts of the city.

Let us turn here and ride through broad Fourteenth Street, towards
the East Hirer, passing the Opera House on the way. Wo arc going to
visit the oldest living thing in the city of New York, — an ancient pear-
tree, at the corner of Thirteenth Street and Third Avenue. It was

i . n

UNION PARK.

brought from Holland by Peter Stuyvesant, the last and most renowned
of the governors of New Netherland (New York) while it belonged to the
Dutch. Stuyvesant brought the tree from Holland, and planted it in his
garden in the year 1G17. I believe it was never known to fail in bear-
ing fruit. Many of the pears have been preserved in liijuor as curiosities,

and many a twig has left the parent stem for transplantation in far distant
soil. The tree sccras to have vigour enough to last another century.

Stuyvesant's dwelling, upon his "Bowerie estate," was near the present
St. Mark's Church, Tenth Street, and Second Avenue. It was huilt of
small yellow brick, imported from Holland. To this secluded spot ho
retired when he was compelled to surrender the city and province to tho

STUVVESAKT FSAB TBE£.

English, in 1664. There he lived with his family for eighteen years,
employed in agricultural pursuits. He built a chapel, at his own cost, on
the site of St. Mark's, and in a vault within it he was buried. The slab
of brown freestone that covered it, and which now occupies a place in
the rear wall of St. Mark's, bears the following inscription : — " In this
vault lies Petrus Stuyvesant, late Captain-General and Commander-in-

i j<v^^.^jv-g;:j^

THE HIjUSON.

417

chief of Amsterdam, in New Netherliinds, now called Now York, and the
Dutch West India Islands. Died, August, a.d. 1682, aged eighty
years."*

St. Mark's Church, seen on the left in our little sketch, now ranks
among the older church edifices in the city. It was built in 1799, and
several of the descendants of Peter Stuyvesant have been, and still are,
members of the congregation. When erected, it was more than a mile
from the city, in the midst of pleasant

country seats. The old Stuyvesant ' _ :__i: ^^ _ - ,

mansion was yet standing, and the
" Bowery Lane " (now the broad
stieet called the Bowery), and the old
Boston Port road, were the nearest
highways. Near it, on the Second
Avenue, is seen a Gothic edifice — the
Baptist Tabernacle- by the side of
which is a square building of drab
freestone, belonging to the New York
Historical Society. The latter is one
of the most flourishing and important

associations in New York, and numbers among its membership — resident,
corresponding, and honorary — many of the best minds in America and
Europe. It has a very large and valuable library, and an immense
collection of manuscripts and rare things ; also the entire collection of
Egyptian antiquities brought to the United States by the late Dr. Abbott,
several marbles from Nineveh, and a choice gallery of pictures, chiefly by
American artists. |

STUYVESANT'S HOUSE.

iH 1

• Peter Stuyvesant was a native of Holland : he was bred to the art of war, and had been in publio
life, as Governor of Cura9oa, before he assumed the povernment of New Netherlands. He was a man
of dignity, honest and true. He was energetic, aristocratic, and overbenrinfj. His deportment made
him unpopular with the people, yet hia services were of vastly more value to them and the province tlian
those of any of his predecessors. He was " Peter the Headstrong " in Knickerbocker's burlesque historj'
of New York, written by Irving, who describes him as a man " of such immense activity and decision
of mind, that he never sought nor accepted the advice of others." . ..." A tough, sturdy, vali:int,
weather-beaten, mettlesome, obstinate, leather-sided, lion-hearted, generous-spirited old governor."

t The New York Historical Society was organised in December, 1>''04. Its flre-proof building, in
r-hich its collections are deposited, was completed in tlie autumn of 18.i7.

3 H

,j II

11 i'i

till I

418

THE HUDSON.

In cluster, a short distance from St. Mark's, are the 33ible House,
Cooper Institute, Clinton Hall, and^.stor Library,* places which intel-
ligent strangers in the city should not pass by. The first three are seeja

ST. MARKS CHUnCIt AN» HISroniCAI, SOCIETY HOUSE.

in our sketch, the Bible House on the right, the Cooper Institute on

• The Xew York Soi'iety Library, in iriiivor.'<i(y I'lacp, is the cUliot iniWic library in the Tiiited
States. It was incoixporatetl in the year 1700, under llie title of " The Public Library of New York."
Its name was changed to its present one in 17S4. It oontains almost 50,000 volumes.

THE HUDSON.

419

the loft, and Clinton Hall in the clistuncc. The open area is Astor
Place.

The Bible House occupic': a whole block or square. It belongs to the
American Bible Society. A large portion of the building is devoted to
the business of the association. Blank paper is delivered to the presses
in the sixth story, and proceeds downwards through regular stages of

'^'-?'

•■^- '-*'-TB! f t r r.P,

n^i.-»C-

BIBLE UOVSK, COOPER INSTITUTE, AND CLINTON HALL.

iitod
ik."

manufacture, until it reaches the depository for distribution on the ground
floor, in the form of finished books. A large nuiiiber of religious and
kindred societies have offices in this building.

The Cooper Institute is the pride of New York, for it is the creation of
a single New York merchant, Peter Cooper, Esq. The building, of
brown freestone, occupies an entire block or s(][uarc, and cost over

420

THE HUDSON.

300,000 dollars. The primary object of the founder is the advancement
of science, and knowledge of the useful arts, and to this end all the
interior arrangements of the edifice were made. When it Avas completed,
Mr. Cooper formally conveyed the whole property to trustees, to be
de/oted to the public good.* By his munificence, benevolence, and
wisdom displayed in this gift to his countrymen, Mr. Cooper takes rank
among the great benefactors of mankind.

Clinton Hall belongs to the Mercantile Library Association, which is
composed chiefly of merchants and merchants' clerks. It has a member-
ship of between four and five thousand persons, and a library of nearly
seventy thousand volumes. The building was formerly the Astor Place
Opera House, and iu the open space around it occurred the memorable
riot occasioned by the quarrel between Forrest and Macready, to which
allusion has been made.

Near Astor Place, on Lafayette Place, is the Astor Library, created by
the munificence of the American Croesus, John Jacob Astor, who
bequeathed for the purpose 400,000 dollars. The building (made larger
than at first designed, by the liberality of the son of the founder, and
chief inheritor of his property) is capable of holding 200,000 volumes.
More than half that number are there now. The building occupies a
portion of the once celebrated Vauxhall Gardens, a place of amusement
thirty years ago.

Let us now ride down the Bowery, the broadest street in the city, and
lined almost wholly with small retail shops. It leads us to Franklin
Square, a small triangular space at the junction of Pearl and Cherry
Streets. This, in the " olden time," was the fashionable quarter of the
city, and was remarkable first for the great "Walton House, and a little
later as the vicinity of the residence of Wf^shington during the first year
of his administration as first President of the United States. That
building was No. 10, Cherry Street. By the demolition of some houses

♦ The thief operations of the Institute (whidi Mr. Coniierculla "The Union") nrc free instruction
of clusses in BiiL-nce ami tlie useful iirts, nnil free lectures. The first iuk' »':.ond stories are rented, tlio
proceeds of which arc devoted to dofrnyinK the expenses of the establishment. In the basement is a
lecture-room 12'i feet by 82 feet, and 21 feet in height. The three upper stories are arranged for
purposes of instruction. Tliere is a large hall, with a gallery, designed for a free I'ublic Exchange.

fV.

THE HUDSON.

421

between it and Franklin Sijuare, it formed a front on that open space.
In 1856, the Bowery was continued from Chatham Square to Franklin
Square, when this and adjacent buildings were demolished, and larger
edifices erected on their sites. There Washington held his first levess,
and there Mr. Hammond, the fiist resident minister from England sent to
the new llepublic, was received by the chief magistrate of the Eepublic.

WASHINGTON'S RESIDENCE AS IT APPEAKED IN 1850.

The chief attraction to the stranger at Franklin Scjuarc at the present
time, is the extensive printing and publisliing house of Hakpek and
Bkotueus.

The Walton House, now essentially changed in appearance, was by far
the finest specimen of domestic architecture in the city or its suburbs.

• !

••iji-i

■■. :

1 i

if'

422

THE HUDSON.

It stood alone, in the midst of trees and shrubbery, with a beautiful
garden covering the slope between it and the East river. It was built
by a wealthy shipowner, a brother of Admiral "Walton, of the British
navy, in pure English style. It attracted great attention. A lately-
deceased resident of Xcw York once informed me, that when he was a
schoolboy and lived in Wall Street, he was frequently rewarded for good
behaviour, by permission to "go out on Saturday afternoon to see Master
Walton's grand house." The family arms, carved in wood, remained
over the street door until 1850. It was a place of great resort for the
British officers during the war for independence ; and there William IV.,
then a midshipman under Admiral Digby, was entertained with the
courtesy due to a prince.

On the site of the residence of Walter Franklin, a Quaker and wealthy
merchant, whose name the locality commemorates, stand the Harpers'
magnificent structures of brick and iron (the front all iron), which soon
arose from the ashes of their old establishment, consumed near the close
of 1853. There are two buildings, the rear one fronting on Cliff Street,
The latter is seven stories in height, and the one on Franklin Square six
stories, exclusive of the basements and sub-cellars. Between them is a
court, in which is a lofty brick tower, with an interior spiral staircase.
From this iron bridges extend to the different stories. The buildings are
almost perfectly fire-proof. It is the largest establishment of its kind in
the United States. Over six hundred persons are usually employed in it.
It was founded nearly fifty years ago, by two of the four brothers who
compose the firm. They arc all yet (1866) actively engaged in the
management of the affairs of the house, with several of their sons, and
may be found during business hours, ever ready to extend the hand of
cordial welcome to strangers, and to give them the opportunity to see the
operation of book-making in all its departments, and in the greatest
perfection.

On our way from Franklin Square to the Hudson, by the most direct
route, we cross the City Hall Park, which was known a century ago as
" The Fields." It was then an open common on the northern border of
the city, at "the Forks of the Broadway." It is triangular in form.
The great thoroughfare of Broadway is on its western side, and the City

, l,J.liHi!'.")lli

mmm

THE HUDSON.

423

Hall, a spacious edifice of white marble, stands in its centre. Near its
southern end is a large fountain of Croton water. On its eastern side
was a declivity overlooking " Beekman's Swamp." That section of the
city is still known as "The Swamp" — the great leather mart of the
metropolis. On the brow of that declivity, where Tammany Hall now
stands, Jacob Leisler, "the people's governor," when James II. left the

■ .

FKANKLIN SQUAIiK.

English throne and "William of Orange ascended it, was hanged, having
been convicted on the false accusation of being a disloyal usurper. He was
the victim of a jealous and corrupt aristocracy, and was the first and last
man ever put to death for treason alono within tlie domain of the United
Stat's down to the close of the Civil War in \9(w.

424

THE HUDSON.

When the war for independence was kindling, the Field became the
theatre of many stirring scenes. There the inhabitants assembled to hear
the harangues of political leaders and pass resolves: there "liberty poles"
were erected and prostrated ; and there soldiers and people had collisions.
There obnoxious men were hung in effigy ; and there at six o'clock in the

BROADWAY AT ST. PAUL'S.

evening of a sultry day in July, 177G, the Declaration of Independence
was read to one of the brigades of the Continental Array, then in the city
under the command of "Washington.

The vicinity of the lower or southern end of the park has ever been a

THE HUDSON.

425

i"
ts.
tie

aco
ity

point of much interest. On the site of Earnum's Museum,* the " Sons of
Liberty" in New York — the ultra-republicans before the revolution — had
a meeting-place, called ' Hampden Hall." Opposite was St. Paul's
Church, a chapel of Trinity Church ; where, in after years, when the
objects for which the "Sons of Liberty" had been organised were
accomplished, namely, the independence of the colonies, the Te Detim
Laudatntis was sung by a vast multitude, on the occasion of the inaugura-
tion of Washington (who was present), as the first chief magistrate of the
United States. There it yet stands, on the most crowded portion of
Broadway (where various omnibus lines meet), a venerable relic of the
past, clustered with important and interesting associations. Around it
are the graves of the dead of several generations. Under its great front
window is a mural monument erected to the memory of General
Montgomery, who fell at the siege of Quebec, in 1775 : and a few feet
fiom its venerable walls is a marble obelisk, standing at the grave of
Thomas Addis Emmet, brother of, and co-worker with the eminent Ilobert
Emmet, who perished on the scaflfold during the uprising of the Irish
people against the British government, in 1798.

Passing down Broadway, we soon reach Trinity Church, founded at
the close of the seventeenth century. The present is the fourth edifice,
on the same site. Soon after the British army took possession of New
York, in September, 1776, a fire broke out in the lower part of the town.
Five hundred edifices were consumed — an eighth of all that were in the
city. Trinity Church (the second edifice) was among the number
destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1788, and taken down in 1839. The
present fine building was then commenced, and was completed in 1843.
Within the burial-ground around the church, and the most conspicuous
object there, is the magnificent brown freestone monument, erected by
order of the vestry, in 1852, and dedicated as "Sacred to the Memory,"
as an inscription upon it says, " of those' brave and good men who died,
whilst imprisoned in the city, for their devotion to the cause of American
Independence." Hereby is indicated a great change, wrought by tirao.

• Tlie Museum building (seen opposite St. Paul's in the picture), with all its contents, ^
by fire in 1805.

3 I

) destrovcd

f •

426

THE HUDSON.

"When these " brave and good men " were in prison, one of their most
unrelenting foes was Dr. Inglis, the Rector of Trinity, because they were
"devoted to the cause of American Independence."* The church fronts
"Wall Street, the site of the wooden palisades or wall that extended from
the Hudson to the East Ri^ yr, across the island, when it belonged to the

S0LDIEB8' M0:4UM£NT IN TBINITr CHUBCHVARD.

Dutch. Here we enter the ancient domain of New Amsterdam, a city
around which the mayor was required to walk every morning at sunrise,

• When Washington anived in New York with troops from Boston, in the spring of 1776, he occnpied
a house in Pearl Street, near Liberty, not far from Trinity Churclt. Being a communicant of tlie
Church of England, he attended Divine ser%'ice there. On Su.iday morning, one of Washington's
generals called on Dr. Inglis, and requested him to omit the violent prayer for the king and royal family.
He paid no regard to it. He afterwards said to that officer, " It is in your power to shut up the churches,
but you cannot make the clergy depart from their duty." The prisoners alluded to in the inscription on
the monument, were those who died in the old Sugar-houses of the city, which were used for hospitals.
Many of them were buried in the north part of Trinity Churchyard.

THE HUDSON.

427

unlock all the gates, and give the key to the commander of the fort.
Such was New York two hundred years ago.*

According to early accounts, New Amsterdam must have heen a quaint
old town in Stuyvesant'p time, at ahout the middle of the seventeenth
century. It was, in style, a reproduction of a Dutch village of tl;at
period, when modest brick mansions, with terraced gables fronting the
street, were mingled with steep-roofed cottages with dormer windows in
sides and gables. It was then compactly built. The area within the
palisades was not large ; settlers in abundance came ; and for several years
few ventured to dwell remote from the town, because of the hostile
Indians, who swarmed in the surrounding forests. The toleration that
had made Holland an asylum for the oppressed, was practised here to its
fullest extent. **Do you wish to buy a lot, build a house, and become a
citizen?" was the usual 'question put to a stranger. His affirmative
answer, with proofs of its sincerity, was a sufficient passport. They
pryed not into private opinion or belief ; and bigotry could not take root
and flourish in a soil so inimical to its growth. The inhabitants were
industrious, thrifty, simple in manners and living, hospitable, neigh-
bourly, and honest ; and all enjoyed as full a share of human happiness
as a mild despotism would allow, until th. interloping "Yankees " from
the Puritan settlements, and the conquering, overbeaiing English,

* The harbour of New York was discovered by Hudson in September, 1609. It is supposed to have
been entered twenfy-flve years earlier, by Verrazani, a Florentine. Traders speedily came after the
discovery was proclaimed, and estabhslied a trading-house at Albany, In 1613, Captain Block buill a
ship near the Bowling Green, to replace the one in
wliich he sailed from Holland, and which was acci-
dentally butnt. A Dutch West India Company was
formed in 1621, with all the elementary powers of
government. Their charter gave them territorial
dominion, and the country, called New Netherland,
was made a county of Holland. The seal bore the
representation of a beaver rampant— an animal very
valuable for its fur, and then abundant. The seal of
tlie city of New York (seen in the engraving) has
the beaver in one of its quarterings. New Amster-
dam remained in the possession of the Dutch until
1664, when it was surrendered into the hands of the
English, on demand being made, in the presence of

numerous ships of war, laden with land troops. Then the name was changed from New Amsterda.n to
New York, in honour of James, Duke of York, afterwards James II., to whom the whole domain hud
been granted by his profligate brother, King Charles.

SEALS OK KEW AMSTERDAM AM) NEW YURK.

i!.j:::i

428

THE HUDSON.

distuibed their repose, and made society alarmingly cosmopolitan. This
feature increased with the lapse of time ; and now that little Dutch
trading village two hundred years ago — grown into a vast commercial
metropolis, and ranking among the most populous cities of the Avorld —
contains representatives of almost every nation on the face of the earth.
Broadway, the famous street of commercial palaces, terminates at a

DUTCH MANSION AND COXXAOK IN NEW AMSIEEDAM,

shaded mall and green, called "The Battery," a name derived from
fortifications that once existed there. The first fort erected on Manhattan
Island, by the Dutch, was on the banks of the Hudson, at its mouth, in
the rear of Trinity Church. The next was built upon the site of the
Bowling Green, at the foot of Broadway. These were on eminences over-

r^TTE HUDSON.

42'J

looking the bay. The latter was a stronger work, and became permanent.
It was called Fort Amsterdam. Tlie palisades on the line of "Wall Street
(and which suggested its name) wore of cedar, and were planted in 1G53,
when an English invading force was expected. In 1G92, the English,
apprehensive of a French invasion, built a strong battery on a rocky point
at the eastern end of the present Battery, at the foot of White Ilall Street.
Finally a stone fort, with four bastions, was erected. It covered a portion
of the ground occupied by tlio Battery of to-day. It was called Fort

TUE BOWLING QBEES AHD POBT GEOEOE IN 1780.*

George, in honour of the then reigning sovereign of England. "Within its
walls were the governor's house and most of the government offices.

In the vicinity of the fort many stirring scenes were enacted when the
old war lor independence was kindling. Hostile demonstrations of the
opponents of the famous Stamp Act of 17G6 Avere made there. In front

• This little pictiiro showa the aiiiniiniiict' of the Bowling (Iroi'ii and its vicinity, soon after the close
of the war for indepeinlcncc. Wiiliiii llic enclosure is seen the iiedestal on which stcod the statue of
the king. Near it, the Kennedy House, mentioned in the text, and beyond it, Fort George, the Buy ( f
New York, Governor's Island, and the Narrows, on the left, and Staten Island bounding most of the
horizon, in the distance.

430

THE HUDSON.

of the fort, Lieutenant-Governor Colden's fine coach, his effigy, md the
wooden railing around the Bowling Green, were made materials for a great
bonfire by the mob.

At the beginning of the war for independence, Fort George and its
dependencies had three batteries, — one of four guns, near the "Bowling
Green ; another (the Grand Battery) of twenty guns, where the flag-staff
on the Battery now stands ; and a third of two heavy guns at the foot of
White Hall Street, called the White Hull Battery. Here the boldness of
the Sons of Liberty was displayed at the opening of the revolution, by the
removal of guns from the battery in the face of a cannonade from a British
ship of war in the harbour. From here was witnessed, by a vast and
jubilant crowd, the final departure of the British army, after the peace of
1783, and the unfurling of the banner of the Republic from the flag-staff
of Fort George, over which the British ensign had floated more than six
years. The anniversary of that day — " Evacuation Day " — (the 25th of
November) is always celebrated in the city of New York by a military
parade amlfeu dejoie.

Fort George and its dependencies have long ago disappeared, but the
ancient Bowling Green remains. An equestrian statue of George the
Third, made of lead, and gilded, was placed upon a high pedestal, in the
centre of it, in 1770. It was ordered by the Assembly of the province in
1766, in token of gratitude for the repeal of the odious Stamp Act. The
Green was then enclosed wi an iron paling.* Only six years later, on
the evening when the Declaration of Independence was read to Washing-
ton's army in New York, soldiers and citizens joined in pulling down the
statue of the king. The round heads of the iron fence-posts were
knocked off for the use of the artillery, and the leaden statue of his
Majesty was made into bullets for the use of the republican army. " His
troops," said a writer of the day, refemng to the king, "will probably
have melted majesty fired at them." The pedestal of the statue, seen in
the engraving, remained in the Bowling Green some time after ta« war;

♦ This work of art was by Wilton, of London, and was the first equestriim stutue of his Majesty
ever erected, Wilton made a curious omission— stirrups were wantinfj;. It was a common remark of
the Continental soldiers, that It was proper for " the tyrant " to ride a hard trotting horse without
Blirrups.

THE HUDSON.

431

and tho old iron railing, with its decapitated posts, is still there. A
fountain of Croton water occupies tho site of the statue; and tho
surrounding disc of green sward, where the citizens amused themselves
with bowling, is now shaded by magnificent trees.
K'ear the Bowling Green, across Broadway (No, 1), is the Kennedy

III!

TIIR BOWLIKO OREEN IS 1861.

Housj, where "Wkishington and General Lee, and afterwards Sir Henry
Clinton, Generals Eobertson and Carleton, and other British officers, had
their head-quarters. It has been recently altered by an addition to its
height.'*''

» This house was built by Cnptaiii Kennedy, of the Royal Navy, at about tlie time of his m niage
witli the duugliter of Peter Schuyler, c' New Jersey, in 1705.

432

THE HUDSON.

The present Battery or park, looking out upon the bay of New York,
was formed early in the present century ; and a castle, pierced for heavy
guns, was erected near its western extremity. For many years, the
Battery was the chief and fashionable promenade for the citizens in summer
weather; and State Street, along its town border, was a very desirable
place of residence. The castle was dismantleil, and became a place of

THE BATTKKV AND CASTLE GAKDES.

public amusement. For a long time it was known as Castle Garden ; but
both are now deserted by fashion nnd the Muses. All of old New York
has been converted into one vast business mart, and there are very few
respectable rcbi'^- nces within a mile of the Battery. At the present time
(September, 18G1), it exhibits a martial display. Its green sward is

line

THE HUDSON.

covered with tents and barracks for the recruits of the Grand National
Army of Yoluntcers, and its fine okl trees give grateful shade to the
newly-fledged soldiers preparing for the war for the Union.

At "White Hall, on the eastern border of the Battery, there was a great
civic and military display, at the-close of April, 1789, when Washington,

OI,i) FEDERAL HALr..

coming to the seat of government to be inaugurated first President of the
United States, landed there. He was received by officers and people with
shouts of welcome, the strains of martial music, and the roar of canron.
He was then conducted to his residence on Franklin Squire, and
afterwards to the Old Federal Hall in "Wall Street, where Congress held
its sessions. It waa at the corner of Wall and Nassau Streets, the site on

3 K

ill

434

THE HUDSON.

which fine marble building was erected for a Custom House, and which
is now iiscd for the purposes of a branch Mint. In the j^allery, in front
of the hall, the President took the oath of office, administered by
Chancellor Livingston, in the presence of a great assemblage of people who
filled the street.

The Hudson from the Battery, northward, is lined with continuous
piers and slips, and exhibits the most animated scenes of commercial life.
The same may be said of the East lliver for about an equal distance from

HUDSON II.KR STEAMERS I.KAVING Vr.W YOllK.

the Eattery. Huge steam ferry-boats, magnificent passenger etoamers,
and freight barges, ocean steamships, and every variety of sailing vessel
and other water craft may be seen in the Hudson lliver slips, or out upon
the bosom of the stream, fa'rly jostling each other near the wharves
because of a lack of room. Upon every deck is seen busy men ; and the
yo-heave-o ! is heard at the capstan on all sides. But the most animated
scene of all is the departure of steamboats for places on the Hudson, from
four to six ovlock each afternoon. The piers arc filled with coa'^hes.

THE HUDSON.

435

drays, carts, barrows, every kind of vehic'a for passengers and light freight.
Orange- women and news-boys assail you at every stop with the cries of
" Five nice oranges for a shilling ! " — ** 'Ere's the Hvenhig Post and
Express, third edition ! " whilst the hoarse voices of escaping Avaste-steam,
and the discordant tintinnabulation of a score of bells, hurry on the
laggards by warnings of the near approach of the hour of departure.
Several bells suddenly cease, when from different slips, steamboats covered
with passengers will shoot out like race-horses from their grooms, and
turning their prows northward, begin the voyage with wonderful speed,
some for "the head of tide-water at Troy, others for intermediate towns,
and others still for places so near that the vessels may be ranked as ferry-
boats. The latter are usually of inferior size, but well appointed ; and at
several stated hours of the day carry excursionists or country residents to
tiie neighbouring villages. Let us consider a few of these places, on the
western shore of the Hudson, which the stranger would find pleasant to
visit because of the beauty or grandeur of the natural scenery, and historic
associations.

The most remote of the villages to which excursionists go is Nyack,
opposite Tarrytown, nearly thirty iriles from New York. It lies on the
bank of the Hudson at the foot of the Nyack Hills, Avhich arc broken
ridgcS; extending several miles northward from the Palisades. Hack of
the village, and along the river shore, are fertile and well-cultivated
i-lopes, where fruit is raised in abundance. On account of the salubrity
of the climate, beautiful and romantic scenery, and good society, it is a
very deli.. Iitful place for a summer residence. From every point of view
interesting landscapes meet the eye. The broad Tappan Sea is before it,
and stretching along its shores for several miles arc seen the towns, and
villas, and rich farms of Westchester County. In its immediate vicinity
the huntsman and li^sherman may enjoy his favourite sport. In its
southern suburbs is the spacious building of the Ilockland Female
Institute, seen in our sketch, in the midst of ten acres of land, and
affording accommodation for one hundred pupils. During the ten weeks'
summer vacation, it is used as _ a first- class boarding-house, under the
title of the Tappan Zee House.

About four miles below Nyack is riennont, at which is the terminus of

the middle branch of the New York and Eric Railway. The village is
the child of that road, und its life depends mainly upon the sustenance it
receives from it. The company has an iron foundry and extensive
repairing shops there ; and it is tlie chief freight dep6t of the road. Its
name is derived from a pier which juts a mile into the river. From it

VIEM' NEAR NVACK.

freight is transferred to curs and barges. Tappci^own, where Major
Andre Avas executed, is about two miles from Picrmont.

A short distance below Piermont is Eockland, a post village of about
three hundred inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the river, and flanked
by high hills. Here the Palisades proper have their northern termination ;
and from here to Fort Lee the columnar range is almost unbroken. This
place is better known as Sneedon's Landing. Here Cornwallis and six

l !H I )k!«m i lL.I-ilUL-J-4Jmi!i

THE HUDSON.

437

thousand British troops landed, and marched upon Fort Lcc, on the top of
the Palisades, a few miles below, after the fall of Fort Washington, in the
autumn of 1776.

One of the most interesting points on the west shore of the Hudson,
near Kcw York, and most resorted to, except Hoboken and its vicinity, is
Fort Lee. It is within the domain of Wew Jersey. The dividing line
between that State and New York is a short distance below Kockland or
Sneeden's Landing ; and it is only the distance between there and its
mouth (about twenty miles) that the Hudson washes any soil but that of
the State of New York.

The village of Fort Lee is situated at the foot of the Palisades. A
winding road passes from it to the top of the declivity, through a deep,
wooded ravine. The site of the fort is on the left of the head of the
ravine, in the ascent, and is now marked by only a few mounds and a
venerable pine-tree just south of them, which tradition avers once
sheltered the tent of Washington. As the great patriot never pitched his
tent there, tradition is in error. Washington was at the fort a short time
at the middle of November, 1776, while the combined British and Hessian
forces were attacking Fort Washington on the opposite shore. He saw
the struggle of the garrison and its assailants, without ability to aid his
friends'. When the combat had continued a long time, he sent word to
the commandant of the fort, that if he could hold out until night, he
could bring the garrison off. The assailants were too powerful ; and
Washington, with Generals Greene, Mercer, and Putnam, and Thomas
Paine, the influential political pamphleteer of the day, was a witness of
the slaughter, and saw the red cross of St. George floating over the lost
fortress, instead of the Union stripes which had been unfurled there a few
months before. The title of Fort Washington was changed to that of Fort
Knyphauseu, in honour of the Hessian general who was engaged in its
capture. Fort Lee Avas speedily approached by the British under
Cornwallis, and as speedily abandoned by the Americans. The latter fled
to the Republican camp at Hackensack, when Washington commenced his
famous retreat through New Jersey, from the Hudson to the Delaware,
for the purpose of saving the menaced federal capital, Philadelphia.

The view from the high point north of Fort Lee is extensive and

■; I

il::;'!!

438

THE HUDSON.

interesting, up and clown the river. Across arc seen the villages of
Carmansville and Mauhattanville, and fine country seats near ; while
southward, on the left, the city of New York stretches into the dim

VIEW FKOM FORT LEK.

distance, with Statcn Island and the Narrows still beyond. On the
right are the wooded cliffs extending to Ilobokcn, with the little villages
of Pleasant Valley, Bull's Ferry, 'VVcchawk, and Hoboken, along the
shore.

ILlillUUil.llJlil

CHAPTER XXIII.

^ BOUT three miles below Fort Lee is Bull's Ferry
a village of a few houses, and a great resort for
the working-people of x\ew York, when spending
a leisure day. The steep, wooded bank rises
abruptly in the rear, to an altitude of about two
hundred feet. There, as at Weehawk, are many
pleasant paths through the woods leading to vistas
through whxehghmpses of the eity and adjacent waters are
obtained Hither pie-nie parties eome to spend warm summer
days, where —

The .randios arcli, n„,l ^hapo n pleasm.t bower
I!.c«kn,g white do,Kl. bh,o sky. and M.nshine biiohf
Into i.iiie ivoiy ami f-apiJiire spot.-, '

And Hocks of ROM ; a soft, lool emerald tint
Colonrs tlie air, as tlioufrh Uio dchVate ieaves
Kniilted se!f-l)(,rii lii;Iit."

0,,,. littlo Aetch of mvs Ferry is f„k™ from Aroc.I,«k Wharf an.l

o„ ho po,„t on ,vhich was a Mook-house .,„ri,„ the revolution /fZ

hat eircnmstanco ,t has always leen ealled Weok-houso Point. It,

..story has a melancholy interest, as it is connected wilh that of the

unfortunate Major Andre. In tUo s„„,„er of ,780, a fc. week, bef o

he d.,eovery of Arnold', treason, that hloek-ho„.so was „ce,.pied hy a

f: '; 'r'°'' "" '"■°'""°" "f ■'»'- ™''™«-. ->1 "0 neigh
mng New Je..ey loyalists. On liergen Keek below was a ,a go

number of eat le and horses, belonging to the Americans, within reach of

the forager, who might go out from the British post at I'aulu,', Hook

now Jersey City. W.ashington's head-quarter, were then inland, nea,'

E mapo. He ,ent General Wayne, with some Tennsylvanian and M.;

land troops, horse and foot, to storm the block-honse, and to drive tho

■m

ill
it

440

THE HUDSON.

cattle within the American lines. "Wayne sent the cavalry, under Major
Henry Lee, to perform the latter duty, whilst he and three Pennsylvanian
regiments marched against the block-house with four pieces of cannon.
They made a spirited attack, but their cannon were too light to bo
effective, and, after a skirmish, the Americans were repulsed with a loss
of sixty men, kill and wounded. After burning some wood-boats near,

BULL'S FERRY.

and capturing those who had them in charge, Wayne returned to camp
vvith a large number of cattle driven by the dragoons.

This event was the theme of a satirical poem, in three cantos, in the
ballad style, written by Major Andre, and published in Eivington's i?oyrt/
Gazette, in the city of New York. The following is a correct copy, made

jor
an
m.
bo

)SS

ir.

by the writer for his PicTonrAT Wrrr^ u

upoB^all folio pap.r. Th. poem is ontitM "' " ™' ™''™

THE COW CHASE.
> Canto I.

To drive the kine one summer's morn

Tlie tanner* took his way;
Tlie calf sliall rue, llwt is unborn,

The yumbling of that day.

And Wayne descending steers shaU know

And tauntingly deride,
And call to mind, in every low.

The tanning of his hide.

Vet Bergen cows still ruminate

Unconscious in the stall
What mighty means were'used to get

Andlose them after all.

For many heroes bold and brave

From New Bridge and Tapaan.
And those that drink Passaic's wave

And those that eat soupaan;t

And sons of distant Delaware,
And still remoter . Shannon,'
And Major Lee with hoises rare

And Proctor with his cannon ;i

All wondrous proud in arms they canie-

vvhat hero could refuse.
To tread the rugged path to fame

who had a pair of elioes ?

At six the host, with sweating buff
Arrived at Freedoms Pole

When Wayne, who thought h'e'd time enough
Thus speecliifled the whole : '"'""g".

' ye whom glory dolli unite.

Who Freedom's cause espouse
Whether the wing that's doomed to fight
Or that to drive ihe cows ; '

* This is in allusion to the supposed business of Oonomi xv .

tanner. He was a surveyor. °^ °'"*"" ^^">'"«' '" early life, who, it was said, was a

t A common name for liasty-pudding, made of tliP mo„i „r •
X Major Hany Lee was commai.der o His of mZ, """'" '"' ^"'-"«" ^°'"-

of a corps of artillery. " '"'"^ "^ "«'" '«'"'"««'•. and Colonel Proctor was at the head

" Ere yot you tempt your further way,

Or into nctiuii come,
J tear, soldiers, what I liave to say,

And take a pint of rum,

",Intenii)'rate valour Ihen will strinpr
Each ner\ous nrm the better,

So all the laud shall lO ! siiiR,
And read the geu'nil's letter.

" Know that some paltry refugees'.
Whom I've aminil to flKlif,

Are playing U— 1 among the trees
Thai glow on yonder height.

h I

" Their fort and blix'k-houso we'll level,
And deal a hon'id !<laiiglitcr ;

We'll drive the sconndrcls to the devil.
And ravish wife and daiigliier.

" I under cover of th' attack,

Whilitt you are all at jjlows,
From English Neighb'rlKKHl and Tinack

Will drive n\' the cows.

" For well you kuhw the latter is

Theserid .s operation,
And fighting with the refugees

Is only dcuKinstration.''

Ilis daring words from all the crowd

Such great applause did gain,
Tliat every man declared aloud

For serious work with Wayne.

Then from the cask of lum once more

They took a heady gill.
When one and all tlicy loudly swore

They'd fight upon the hill.

But here — the muse has not a strain

Befitting swell great deeds,
" HuiTa," they cried, " hurra for Wayne I "

And, shouting — did their needs.

Oanto it.

Near his meridian pomp, the sun
Had journey'd from the hoi-izon.

When fierce the dusky tribe moved on.
Of heroes drunk as poison.

The sounds coufused of boasting oaths,

Re-echood through the wood.
Some vow'd to sleep in dead men's clothes,

And some to swim in blood.

THE HUDSON.

At IivineVs i,o(l,» 'tw.ia fine to see

Tlic left prcimicil to fiKlit,
The while the ,lro,v,.,. W«j„e aiul Lee

i»iew off iiiion tlie riglit.

Wl.i. h In'ine 'twas Fan ■• .lon't rchite,
Ai'i-cnn IlloMfHCHssi-' lirr

Whctli,T-(wn»Iiollmt(,,K„aliif,
Or he that gives 11 j;lisier.

For Rrently one was signalised,
That fought at Clie.sdint Hill,

And Canada i)nnii,i!alised <■

The vendor of the i,ill.

Vet (he iifteiidarii'e npon Procloi-

Thoybollin,io|,f iiavetolKi.i.tof-
For ti.eiv Wius b>...i„i..s,s for n.e doctor
AlidlnKstcil.,. (liaj„,.,,|„f_

let none iincandidly infer
Tliat Stilling wanted siMnilc,

The self-made peer had .sine been ll.ao
■lint lluit the peer was drtiii;..t

But fnrn wc to the Hudson's banks,
■\\ hero stood the modest train

With puqwse tlrni, tliougl, slender ran'c^
Aor cared ii pin for Wayne.

For then the unrelenting Imnd

Of rebel fury drove.
And tore from ev'ry genial band

Of friendship and of love.

And some within a dungeon's gloom,

By mock tribunals laid.
Had waited long a cruel doom.

Impending o'er their lieads.

Here one bewails a brother's fate,

'I here one a sire demands.
Cut off, alas! before their date,

Uy ignominious hands.

And silver'd grandsires Iierc ;i:.peai''a

In deep distress serene.
Of reverend manners that declared

The better days they'd seen.

Oh I cursed rebellion, these arc thino,

Thine are these talcs of Woe ;
Shall at thy dire iinatnUe shrine

Blood never cejise to flow ?

443

l w ?,"'" "'""""' ^'''"'' °f I'^^»"~-3lva.,ia.

II was

444

THE HUDSON,

And now tlic f<>o began to lead

His forces to Ih' attack ;
Halls wliisllinK un'o l>""-^ smcecd,

And make the block-lioiiso crai'k,

No shot i'oul<l pass, if you will take

Tlie gen'ral's word for true ;
But 'tis a d— ble mistuke,

For ev'ry shot went through.

The firmer as the rebels i.resscd,

The loyal heroes stand ;
Virtue had nerved each honest brcus?,

And Industry' each hand.

In valour's frenzy, Hamilton

Rode like a soldier big,
And secretary Harrison,

With pen stuck in his wig.»

But, lest chieftain Washington
Should mourn them in the niumps.t

The fate of Withrington to shun,
They fought behind the stumps.

But ah ! Thaddeus Posset, why

Should thy poor soul elope ?
And why should Titus Hooper die,

Ah! die— without a rope?

Apostate Murphy, thou to whom

Fair Shela ne'er was cruel ;
til death sktilt hear her mourn thy doom,

Och ! would ye die, my jewel ?

Thee, Nathan Pumpkin, I lament,

Of melancholy fate.
The gray goose, stolen as he went.

In his heai-t's blooil was wet.

Now as the fight was further fought,

And balls began to thicken.
The fray aesuraed, the gen'rals tliought,

The colour of a licking.

Yet undismay'l the chiefs command,

And, to redee.'n the day,
Ciy, " Soldiers, c'large ! " they hear, they stand,

They turn and run away.

Canto III.

Not all delights the bloody spear,

Or horrid din of battle,
There are, I'm sure, who'd like to hear

A word about the rattle.

* Colonels Hamilton and Harrison, of Washington's staff.

t A painful swelling of the glands, then prevalent in the Bepublican anny.

THE HUDSON.

445

The chief whom we liohoM of hi(o,
Ni'iir SclinilcnbcrK haniiicuiii),'.

At Yaii Van I'.M.p'.s iincoiiMiioiis sut
Of Ininc'H hfuity biiiigiiijf.

H'liilp valiaiK too, wiiJi courafie wild,

Most liruvfly (lid opposo
Till- tears of wom.'ii ami of cliilil.

Who bepg'd ho'd leave ihc cows.

But Wayne, of symputhising heart,

I{ei)iiiieau relief,
Not all the blessings could impart

Of battle or of beef.

For now a prey to female charms,

His soul took more deliKht in
A lovely Hamadryad's arms

Than cow driving or fighting.

A nymph, the refugees had drove

Far from her native tree,
Just hapiwn'd to be on the move,

When up came Wayne and Lee.

She in mad Anthony's fierce eye

Tlic hero saw portray'd.
And, all in tears, she took him by

—The bridle of liis jade.

"Hear," said the nj-mph, " o great commun lei'.

No human lamentations,
Tlie trees yon see them cutting yonder

Are all my new relations.

"And r, forlorn, implore thine aid

To free the sacred grove :
So shall thy prowess be repaid

Witli an immortal's love."

Now some, to prove she was a goddess!

Said this enchanting fair
Hud late retired from the Bodies*

In all the pomp of war.

That drums and merry fifes had play'd

To honour her retreat.
And Cunningham himself convey'd

The lady tlirough the street.

Great Wayne, by soft compassion sway'd.

To no inquiry stoops.
But takes the fair, affiicteJ maid

liiijlit info Yan Van Poop's.

.i;

person

A cant appellation given among the soldiery to the corps that had the honour to guard his majesty.

}4. <::\

446

THE HUDSON.

So Roman Anthony, they say,

■■

Uisfrraced th' imi'orial banner,

And for a gipsy lost a day.

Like Anthony the tanner.

Tlie Hamadryad had but half

Received redress from Wayne,

When dnnns and colours, cow and calf.

■ *■ "

Came down the road amain.

All in a cloud of dust were seen,
Tlie bheep, the hor.se, the goaf.

The penile heifer, ass obscene.
The yearling and the shoat.

And pack-horsej with fowls came by,
Uefeadiered on each side,

Like I'egasus, the horse that I
And other iwets ride.

Sublime Hjion ( e slirrnps rose

The niiglity Lee behind.
And drove the lerror-sniillen cowci,

like chaff before llio wind.

i3ut sudden see the woods nbovo

Potu' down another corps,
All heller skcller in a drove.

Like that I snug before.

Irvine and terror in llie van,

Came flying all abroad,
And cannon, coloms, horse, and man,

Riin tmnliling to the road.

Still as lie Hed, 'Iwas Irvine's cry.

And his example loo,
" Run on, my nien-y nn-n all— for \\ by ? "'

The shot will not go through.*

/ s when two kennels in the street,

SwellM wilh a recent rain.
In gushing streams togclher meet,

And seek the neighbouring drain ;

So meat these dung-born tribes in one,

As swifl in their career.
And so to New liridgc they ran on —

But all the cows got clear.

■

■= i- n.Ml..* .^-»n-*.«_-,

* I'ive refugees ('tis true) were fcuind

^tiff on the block-house floor,

But then 'lis thought the shot went rouild,

And iri at the back door. ,

THE HUDSON.

Poor Parson Caldwell,* all in \v.,n(ler,

Saw (he returning (rain,
Ami monrn'd (o Wayne (h'o lack of plunder

For (hem (o s(eal iigain.

For -twis his right to seize the spoil, and
lo share with each cuinmandtr,

As he had done at Staten Island
With frost-bit Alexander.!

In his dismay, the fi-antie priest

Began to grow iirophetic,
Vou l;ad swore, (o see liis lab'ring breast,

Hod taken an emelic.

"I view a future day," said he,
"r.;,>htcr than this day dark is.

An-. - shall see what yon shall see,
■■•;.■ . i! one pretty mariiuis;t

" -• .a. ,ie shall come to Pa-ilus' Jlook, {
And great achievemcnls think on, '

And make a bow and take a look
Like Satan over lincoln.

" And all the land arotnid shall glory

To see the Frenchman caper.
And pretty Susan tell the story' .

In tlie next Chatham paper."

This solemn prophecy, of course,

Gave all much consolation.
Except to Wayne, who lost his horee.

Upon the great occasion :

His horse tl-^t carried all his prog,
His military speeches,

His corn-stalk whisky for his grog-
Blue stockings and brown breeches.

And now I ve closed my epic strain,

I tremble as i iiiow it,
lest this same warrio-drover, Wayne,

Should ever catc the poet."

447

It has been remarked as a curious coincidence, that on the day whon

las canto of the above poen. was publi.shed in Wt ^ ^I .

Major Andre was arrested; and tht.t General Wayne, so Hdiculed t '

an who js so peculiarly alluded t.in the last stanL, ;as the co.l:^;

of the ..htary force fro. which was dettnled the guard that acco.p la

• A pat -iotic preacher of the Oiisnol, at Eli/abelhtown v^m t„

t William Alexander. Lool Stirli.'.g.' itfZX!:^!:;^;:!'" "''^f ^^-'^ "-'.e-ed.

$ New Jersey city.

448

THE HUDSON.

the gifted young officer to the scaffold. On the autograph copy from
which I copied the poem, and which Andre dated " Elizabeth town [New
Jersey], August 1, 1780," were the following lines: —

" WHien lliis epic Btrain was siiiifr.
The poet by the neck wns hung ;
Ami to Ilia cost he fiiitU too hito,
The ' dung-born trihc ' decides his fate."

The next villago below Bull's Ferry is Wcehawl.-,*>' a place of great

DUKI.LINO GKOUND— WEKHAWK.

resort in summer by pleasure seekers from the metropolis. It is made

• This is an Iiidiiiri Wdivl, iiiid is lhi;.s lipolt in its puiily. The Dutch spelt it Wiehiuhiui, nud it ii
now c.'iuuionly written Weeliawlien; 1 liiivo adopted the ortliogniphy lliat expi esses the pure Indian
pr iMuiic'iiticn.

THE HUDSON.

449

lado

lit it

Idiiin

famous by its connection with the duolliiig ground wliero General
Alexander Hamilton, one of the founders of the Republic, was mortally
wounded in single combat, by Aaron Burr, then Vice-President of the
United States. They were bitter political foes. Without just provoca-
tion, in the summer preceding an important election, Burr, anxious to
have Hamilton out of his way, challenged bim to fight. The letter, out
of unnecessary respect for a barbarous public opinion, accepted the chal-
lenge ; and early in the morning of the llth of July, 1804, they and
friends crossed the Hudson to Wcehawk, and stood as foi-s upon tho
duelling ground. Hamilton was opposed to duelling ; and, pursuant to
his previous resolution, did not fire his pistol. The malignant Burr took
deliberate aim, and fired with fatal precision. Hamilton lived little more
than thirty hours. His death produced tho most profound grief through-
out the nation. Burr lived more than thirty years, a fugitive, like Cain,
and suffering the bitter scorn of his countrymen. This crime, added to
his known vices, made him thorougbly detested, and few men had the
courage to avow themselves his fricu 1. A monument was erected to the
memory of Hamiibu, on tho spot where he fell. It was afterwards
destroyed by some marauder. The place is now a rough one, on the
margin of the river, and is marked by a rude arm-chair or sofa (seen in
our sketch, in which wo are looking up the river) made of stones. On
one of them the half-effaced names of Hamilton and Burr may be seen.

The next place of interest below Weehawk is that known in former
times as the Elysian Fields. I remember it as a delightful retreat at
*' high noon," or by moonlight, for those who loved Nature ir her quiet
and simple forms. Then there were stately trees near the bank of the
river, and from their shades the eye rested upon the busy surface of tho
stream, or the busier city beyond. There, on a warm summer afternoon,
or a moonlit evening, miglit bo seen scores of both sexes strolling iipon
the soft grass, or sitting upon the green sward, recalling to memory many
beautiful sketches of life in tho early periods of tho world, given in tho
volumes of the old poets. All is now changed ; the trips of Charon to
the Elysian Fields are suspended, and the groun Is, stripped of many of
the noble trees, have become "private," and subjected to the manipula-

Even the Sibyl's Cave, under Castle

tions of tho '*real estate agent."

Ill

I
i

■I
III

:iir

450

THE HUDSON.

Point, at the southern boundary of the Elysian Fields — a cool, rocky

cavern containing a spring — has been spoiled by the clumsy hand of Art.

The low promontory below Castle Point was the site of the large

Vn;W AT jIJIK KLV61AN VIKLPS.

Indian vilhige of IloUclc. There the pleasant little city of Hoboken now
stands, and few of its quiet denizens are awai'c of the dreadful tragedy
performed in that vicinity more than two hundred years ago. The story

THE HUDSON.

451

may be related in few words. A fierce feud had existed for some time
between the New Jersey Indians and the Butch on Manhattan. Several
of the latter had been murdered by the former, and the Hollanders had
resolved on vengeance. At length the fierce Mohawk?, bent on procuring
tribute from the weaker tribes westward of the Hudson, came sweeping
down like a gale from the north, driving great numbers of fugitives upon
the Hackensacks at Hobock. Now was the opportunity for the Dutch.
A strong body of thom, with some Mohawks, crossed the lEudson at mid-
night, in February. 164.3, fell upon the unsuspecting Indians, and before
morning murdered almost one hundred men, women, and children. Many
were driven from the clift's of Castle Point, and perished in the freezing

^i.i.^-.riSP

SrKVK.NSS ILOATINO UATTEUV.

low
edy
lory

flood. At sunrise the murderers returned to New Amsterdam, Avitli
prisoners and the heads of several Indians.

A large proportion of the land at lloboken is owned by the Stevens
family, who have been identified with steam navigation from its earliest
triumphs. The head of the family laid out a village on Hoboken Point,
in 180-1. It has become a considerable city. Members of the same
family had large manufacturing establishments there ; and for several
years before the Civil "War had been constructing, upon a novel plan, a
huge floating battery for harbour defences, for the government of the
United States, and more than a million of dollars had already been spent
in its construction, when the war broke out. It had been utterly shut in
from the public eye, until a very short time before that event. Our space
will allow nothing more than an outline description of it. It is a vessel

452

THE HUDSON.

seven hundretl feet loug (length of the Great Eastern), covered with
plates of iron so as to be absolutely bomb and round shot proof. It is to
be moved by steam engines of sufficient power to give it a momentum
that ■will cause it to cut a man-of-war in two, when it strikes it at the
waists. It will mount a battery of sixteen heavy rifled cannon in bomb-
proof casemates, and two heavy columbiads for throwing shells will be
on deck, one forward and one aft. The smoke-pipe is constructed in
sliding sections, like a telescope, for obvious purposes; and the hu^'o
vessel may be sunk so that its decks alone will be above the water. It
is to be rated at six thousand tons. The war was productive of a variety
of iron-clad vessels far more effective than this promises to be, and it is
probable that it will never be completed.

Opposite the lower part of the city of I^ew York, and separated from
Hoboken by a bay and marsh, is Jersey City, on a point at the mouth of
the Hudson, known in ' uiy times as Paulus's or Pauw's Hook, it having
been originally obtained from the Indians by Michael Pauw. This was
an important strategic point in the; revolution. Here the British esta-
blished a military post after taking pos¥;ession of the city of ]S"ew York in
177G, and held it until August, 1779, when the active Major Henry Lee,
mentioned in Andre's satire of "The Cow Chase," with his legion, sur-
prised the garrison, killed a number, and captured the fort, just before
the dawn. Kow a flourishing city — a suburb of New York — covers that
point. Immense numbers of travellers pass through it daily, it being the
terminus of several important railways that connect with New York by
powerful steam ferry-br^ats. Here, too, are the wharves of the Cunard
line of ocean steamers. Before it is the broad and animated bay of New
York, forming its harbour, and, stretching away to the south-west, nine
miles or more, is Newark Bay, that receives the Passaic River.

Here we leave the Hudson proper, and after visiting some prominent
places in the vicinity of the metropolis, will accompany the reader to
the sea.

Adjacent to Manhattan Island, and separated from it by the narrow
East Piver, is Long Island, which stretches along the coast from West
to East, about one hundred and forty miles. It is rich in Iruditional,
legendary, and historical reminiscences. Near its western extremity, and

< V™^i *4 " ■ ft WTrtW " irnMVWKMi

THE HUDSON.

453

opposite tlio city of New York, is the large r.nd beautiful city of Brooklyn,*
whose intimate social and business relations with the metropolis, and
connection by numerous ferries, render it a sort of suburban town. Its
growth has been wonderful. Less tlian sixty years ago, it contained
only a ferry-house, a few scattered dwellings, and a cliurch. Now it
comprises an area of 1G,000 acres, with an exterior line of twenty-two
miles. Like New York, it has absorbed several villages. It was incor-
porated a village in 1816, and a city in 1831. Its central portion is

DUt

low

lest
Lai,
Ind

JERSEY CllV AM) CI .NaKI) DUCK.

upon a range of irregular hills, fortified during the revolution. The
bluff on whidi Fort Stirling stood — now known as "The Heights" — is
covered with fine edifices, and aflords extensive views of New York and
its harbour. Williamsburgh, which had become quite a large city, was
annexed to Brooklyn in 1851. Iktween the two cities is Wallabout Bay,
the scene of great suftering among the American prisoners, in British
prison-ships, during the revolution. Eleven thousand men perished

• I'ruiu tlic Dutch Hreih-k-ljmll—hviikcn liuid.

.1 11

454

THE HUDSON.

there, and their remains ■\v(>re buried in shallow graves on the shore.
Near its banks was born Surah llapolje, the first child of European
parents that drew its earliest breath within the limits of the State of New
York.* Upon that accldama of the old war for independence in the
vicinity of the Hudson, is now a dockyard of the United States Govern-
ment, which covers about forty-five acres of land. "NVithin the enclosure
is a depository of curious things, brought home by officers and seamen of
the navy, and is called the Naval Lyceum. It contains a fine geological

liHUUKLVN FEBBV AND UEIGHIS.

cabinet, and a library of several thousand volumes. Upon a gentle hill
back of the Navy Yard is a United States Marine Hospital, seen in our
sketch.

The southern portion of Brooklyn lies upon low ground, with an
extensive water front. There, immense commercial works have been

* In April, ltj2:i, tliirty families, chiolly Wulloons (Freiuli I'mtestants win.) Imd taken refupo in
Mollaiul), aiTiveil at Manhattan, in ihar^re <il' tlio first Go'eiiior ot NewJS'etheiland. Eight of tliese
families went np ilie Hmlson, and seltli'il at Alliany; llie remainder ehose their place of abode across
the channel of the East Hivcr, upon Umds now covered by a portion of Uie city of Brooklyn and the
I'nited States Navy Yai-d. .

THE HUDSON.

455

constructed, known as the Atlantic Docks, covering forty acres, and
aftbrding within the "slips" water of sufficient depth for vessels of
largest size. There is an outside pier, three thousand feet in length, and
on the wharves are extensive warehouses of granite. These wharves
afford perfect security from depredators to vessels loading and unloading.
A little below Brooklyn, and occupying a portion of the ground
whereon the conflict between the British and American armies, known as
the battle of Long Island, was fought, at the close of the summer of

hill
our

an
seen

Ipo in
1 these
liL-ross
Ll the

>A\ i VAUl), mOOKLV.N.

1776, is Greenwood Ceino^ory, one of the most noted burial-places in the
country. A greater portion of it is within the limits of the city of
Brooklyn. It comprises four hundred acres of finely diversified land.
The present population of ihni " city of the dead" is probably not less
than 70,000. One of Ibo most delightful places within its borders is
Sylvan Water, near the shores of which may Ik tcu a monument, over
the grave of an Indian princess, of the tribe of Min-ne-ha-ha, the bride of
Longfellow's ITi-a-wat-ha, who died in BTow York a few years ago. Also

'II

the grave of ^M'Donalcl Clarke, known in New York, twenty years ago,
as the "Mad Poet." His monument is seen npon a little hilloek in our
sketch of Sylvan "Water. Clarke was an cccentrii' eliild of genius. He

SYLVAN 'WATER, GREENWOOD.

became, in his latter years, an unhappy wanderer, with reason half
dethi'oned, a companion of want, and the victim of the world's neglect.
His proud spirit disdained to ask food, and ho famished. Society, of

THE HUDSON.

457

whom his necessities asked bread, ' j^avc him a stone " — a monument of
white marble, with liis profile in b((s-relief. lie died in March, 1842.
" He was a poet," says his biograplicr, "of the order of Xat Lee ; one of
those wits, in whose heads, according to Dryden, genius is divided from
madness by a thin partition." *

From two or three prominent points in Greenwood Cemetery fine
views of New York city and bay may be obtained, but a bt tter compre-
hension of the scenery of the harbour, and adjacent shores, may be had
in a voyage down the Bay to Statcn IslamLf This may be accomplished

governor's AM) UEDL'Jt'S ISLANJiS.

many times a day, on steam ferry-boats, from the foot of "Whitehall
Street, near "The Eattery." As we go out from the "slip," we soon
obtain a general view of the harbour. On the left is Governor's Island,
with Castle "Williams upon its western extremity, and Fort Columbus

half

;lect.

hy, of

* Diiyckiiuk's Cydoiiicdiii of Anienonu Litcrntui'o."

t Tliis i^Uiml was piircliasoil from the Ii-iHiiiis in Iti'JO, liy tlie proprietor of the I.iiid on wliioli Jersey
city now stands, anU all of that vicinity. ] reverted to the Dutch We.-tt Iiiilia C'Dnipaiiy, when it was
called rilatns Kylaudt, or the State's Island. A cunsideralile innnber of French Protestants (Huguenots),
who ded to America after the revocation uf the Edict of .Vuites, soltled on Statin Island. The British
troops took possession of tlio island in 1770, and liold it initil the autumn of 17^;!.

3 N

EMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

l^|28 |2.5

■50 "^^ Him

2.0

11-25 i 1.4

6" -

1.8

1.6

^
Z

^^'

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

«c

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. M580

(716) 872-4^03

%'^

■^^

lying upon its crown, shaded with old Lombardy poplars. On the right
is Bcdloe's Island,* mostly occupied by Eort Wood, a heavy fortification,
erected in 1841, Near io is Ellis's Island, with a small military work,
called Fort Gibson. This was formerly named Gibbet Island, it being
then, as now, tlie place for the execution of pirates. These islands
belong to the United States. The forts upon them were used as prisons
for captured soldiers of the armies in rebellion during the Civil War.

Before the voyager down the bay lies Staten Island, which, with the
western end of Long Island, presents a great barrier to the ocean winds

•niK NARROWS, FKOM (J'ABAI'TINE.

and waves, and affords a shelter to vessels in the harbour of New York
from the tempest outside. It is nearly oval-shaned, fourteen miles in
length, and eight in breadth. It was heavily wooded, and sparsely
settled, when the British army occupied it, in the summer of 1770.
Now, the hand of cultivation is everywhere visible. Its shores bordering
on New York Bay are dotted with lively villages, and all over the broad
range of hills that extend from the Narrows, across the island, are superb

THE HUDSON.

459

country-seats, and neat farmhouses. It is a favourite place of summer
residence for the wealthy and business men of New York — easy of access,
and salubrious. These country-seats usually overlook the bay. The
tourist will find an excursion over this island a deliglitful one.

On the northern extremity of Staten Island, the State of New York
established a quarantine as early as 1799, and maintained it until the
beginning of September, 1858, when the inhabitants of the village that
had grown up there, and of the adjacent country, ■who hud long petitioned
for its removal as a dangerous nuisance, destroyed all the buildings by
fire. There had been more than five hundred cases of ycUow fevor there

roUT LAFAVKTIK.

Irk
I in
lly

two years before, and the distress and alarm created oy that contagion
made the people determine to rid themselves of the cause. Since the
destruction of the establishment, a hospital-ship, to serve quarantine
purposes, has been anchored in the lower bay, preparatory to some
permanent arrangement.

From tho Quarantine Dock may be obtained an excellent view of the
Narrows, the siiip channel between Long and Staten Islands through
which vessels pass to and from the sea. Our little sketch gives a
comprehensive view of that broad gate to the harbour of Now York. On
the right is seen Staten Island, with tho new and substantiul buttery on

i:l|

4G0

THE HUDSON.

the water's edge, just below the unfinished Fort Wadsworth (formerly
Fort Richmond). On the loft is the Long Island shore, with Fort
Hamilton on its high bank, and Fort Lafayette, formerly Fort Diamond,
in the stream below. The latter fort is upon Hendrick's lleef, two
hundred yart's from the Long Island shore. It was commenced in 1812,
but had not been thoroughly completed when the Civil War commenced,
although 350,000 dollars had been spent upon it. It was then capable
of having mounted seventy-five heavy guns. It soon became famous as a

VOBT 1IAMILT0>'.

political state prison in which many citizens, charged with disloyal,
seditious, and treasonable acts toward the Government, were confined.
Among them was Mr. Faulkner, of Virginia, who was the United States
minister to the French Court during Mr. Buchanan's administration ; the
mayor and chief of police of Baltimore ; members of the Maryland legis-
lature, and the mayor of Washington city. The latter was released after
a short confinement, on taking the oath of allegiance.

On the eastciu border of the Isarrows stands Fort Hamilton, a strong

THE HUDSON.

461

fortification completed in 1832, when a war with France seemed to be
impendinf^. It was enlarged and ptrengthcned during the CiN"il War.
At the beginning of the rebellion it mounted sixty heavy guns (a portion
of them en barbette), forty-eight of which bore npon the ship channel.
The fort is elevated, and commands the Lower Bay from the Narrows
towai'ds Sandy Hook. This work, with the fortifications on the opposite
shore of Staten Island, and the water battery of Fort Lafayette in the
channel, render the position, at the entrance to iXew York Bay, almost
impregnable.

A delightful voyage of fifteen minutes in a steamer, or half an hour

}1,
d.

SllU- BATHING, CONEY ISLAND.

in a sail-boat, will take us to Coney Island, once a peninsula of Long
Island at the lower end of Gravcpond Bi It is now con-aectod with
the main, by a good road, a causeway, and a bridge. The island is about
five miles in length, and one in width, and contains about sixty acres of
arable land. The remainder is made up of sand dunes, formed by the

!ii

4C2

THE HUDSON.

action of the winds. Tlxcse resemble snow-drifts, and arc from five to
thirty feet in height. It is a favourite summer resort for bathers, its
beach being unsurpassed. Near the Pavilion, at its western end, the
scene of our little sketch, the beach is very flat, and surf bathing is
perfectly safe. There crowds of bathers of both sexes, in their sometimes
grotesque dresses, may be seen every pleasant day in summer, especially
at evening, enjoying the water. Refreshments are served at the Pavilion
near, and a day may be spent there pleasantly and profitably. There are
two or three summer boarding-houses at the other end of the island,
which may be reached from Brooklyn in the space of forty-five minutes,
by railways.

Between Coney Island and Sandy Hook, is an expanse of vati r, several

BANDY HOOK, FBOM TU£ SUI1> CUA>-K£,L.

miles across, in which is the sinuous channel followed by large vessels
in their entrance to and exit from the harbour of Kew York in charge of
the pilots. To the right, beyond Raritan Bay, is seen -the New Jersey
shore; wLile southward, in the blue distance, loom up the Navesink
Highlands, on which stand the lighthouses first seen by the voyager from
Europe, when approaching the port of Now York.

Sandy Hook is a long, low, narrow strip of sandy land, much of it

THE HUDSON.

463

covered with shrubs and dwarf trees. It is about five miles in length,
from the Navesink Lights to its northern extremity, whereon aro two
lighthouses. It is the southern cape of Raritan Bay, and has twice been
an island, within less than a century. An inlet was cut through by the
sea during a gale in 1778, but closed again in the year 1800, Another

Bsels
to of
rsey
sink
from

If it

SANDV HOOK, FROM THK LIOIITirol'SES.

inlet was cut in 1330, and for several years it was so deep and broad that
steamboats passed through it That is now closed.

At the northern extremity of Saudy Hook, the United States arc now
erecting strong fortifications. These will materially strengthen the
defences of the harbour of New York, as this fort will command the ship

464

THE HUDSON.

channel. About a mile below the pier, near the lighthouse, on the inner
shore of the Hook, once stood an elcgaut monument, erected to the
memory of a son of the Earl of Morton, and thirteen others, who were
cast away near there, in a snow-storm, during the revolution, -and
perished. All but one were officers of a British man-of-wai', wrecked
there. They were discovered, and buried in one grave. The mother of
the young nobleman erected the monument, and it remained, respected
even by the roughest men of the coast, until 1808, when some vandals,
from a French vessel-of-war, landed there, and destroyed that beautiful
memorial of a mother's love.

Here, reader, on the borders of the great sea, we will part company for
a season. "VVe have had a pleasant and memorable journey from the
Wilderness, three hundred miles away to the northward, where the forest
shadows eternally brood, and the wild beasts yet dispute for dominion
with man. We have looked upon almost every prominent object of
Nature and Art along the borders of the Hudson, and have communed
profitably, I hope, with History and Tradition on the way. W^e have
seen every phase of material progress, from Nature in her wildest forms,
to Civilisation in its highest development. Our journey is finished — our
observations have ceased — and here, with the yielding sand beneath our
feet, a clouclless sky bending over us, and the heaving ocean before us —

"The sea! the sen! the open sea!
The blue, the ficsh, the ever free 1 "-

we will say Farewell !

THE END.

I'HIXTKU UV VIUTL'K AND CO., C'lTV KOAD, LO.NDOX.

A CATALOGUE OP BOOKS

PURLISHED BY

VIRTUE AND CO.,

20, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTEK ROW, LONDON.

ILLUSTRATED BOOKS.

w.'f^f^ .^^^^^^ ^^ ^^- GEORGE AND THE DRAGON
WithlllustrationabyJoiiv FiiAvvrr., ,, ■^■^-L' ^^^AUUJN.

Zr. \ I?' i:°f?''^^'cl Ijy James D. Coopjik. SmaU

4to. elegantly bound in cloth.

THE HUDSON FROM THE WILDERNESS TO THE SEA
,,, , , ^ ^ BY BENSON J. LOSSING.

KSel stef ^Sr^to'??' fr- designs by the Author, and a
elegantly bound in morocco S'^ '^''^ '^•'*^' ^''^ ^Ut edges, price 21s. ; or

THE THAMES, FROM ITS RISE TO ITS FALL

Foolscap S"-JS ^teS?'^!?,h"'",ff ""«• ""'^ ^^'^ Engravings on Wood,
morocco, 31s. 6d ' ^ '"^'^^ ^''^* '^'^&'«' P"<=° 21s. ; or elegantly bound in

THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA MINOR
T,, , , , . BY '^^HE EEV. J. M. BELLEW.

Illustrated .th -^-^^^ngs on .eel ^ I.in^ ta.e. on the spot by

THE VERNON GALLERY OF BRITISH ART

. EDITED BY S. C. HALL. Esq., F.S.A.

En.a.ng. . t.^.., ,,j_^ Vernon. E«,

THE PICTURES BY THE OLD MASTERS IN THE
NATIONAL GALLERY.

^.ntS£^l\'/iT- Jf^S^- ^;::^^-?^^-« historical, Biographical.
Gallery. Now publishhig n parh rov 4 ^ ', • ^of """^ Secretary-, Nationa
tains Twelve large Photograph?.' ^ ^°- ^'"'^ ^'^^ "''^- ^very part con-

■^ :

VIBTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

GEMS OF EUROPEAN ART.

EDITED BY SIRS. S. C. HALL.

Ninety Steol Engravings of tho hcst ritturos of the best Schools. Two vols.,

folio, eloth gilt and gilt edges, £5.

ROYAL GEMS FROM THE GALLERIES OF EUROPE.

Ninety largo Stoel Engravings of Pictures of the Grtuit Jlasters, with Notices
Biographical, Historical, and Descriptive, by S. C. Hall, F.S.A. Two vols.,
elephant folio, cloth, gilt edges, £6.

THE SCULPTURE GALLERY.

A Scries of Eighty-one Steel Engravings, with Descriptions by James Dapfornf,
T. K. Hervey, &c. Folio, cloth gilt, 'J3 3s.

THE WILKIE GALLERY.

A Collection of 67 Engravings from the best Pictures of the late Sir David
VViLKiE, R.A., including his Spanish and Oriental Sketches, with Notices
Biographical and Critical. Folio, cloth gilt edges, £3 10s.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY.

EDITED BY S. C. HALL, F.S.A.

Containing about 151 Engravings from tho "Vernon Collection." With 63
Illustrations of tho best works of Modem Sculptors. Three vols., royal 4to.
cloth, gilt edges, £8 Ss.

AMERICAN LAND, LAIvE, AND RIVER SCENERY.

120 Steel Engravings, after Sketches by W. H. Bartlett. With Descriptions
by N. P. Willis, Author ot " i'eiicillings by tho Way," &c. Two vols., 4to.
cloth, gilt edges, 3as.

IRELAND: ITS SCENERY AND ANTIQUITIES.

120 Engravings by W. H. Baktlett. With Descriptive Text by J. Stirling
CovNE, N. P. Willis, and others. Two vols., 4to. cloth, gilt edges, 3os.

IRELAND: ITS SCENERY, CHARACTER, ETC.

BY MR. & MRS. S. C. HALL.

With 48 Illustrations on Steel, and 600 Woodcuts. Three vols., royal 8vo.
, . cloth, £3 3s.

CALEDONIA ILLUSTRATED.

171 Steel Engravings, from Drawings by W. H. Bartlett, T. Allom, and
others. With Descriptions by William Beattie, M.D. Two vols, 4to. cloth,
gilt edges, 60s.

VIRTUE AND CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.

x«vAMioN TO TUK Close of thk jAcomTP
Rebellion (a.d. 79—1740). •'acob'te

A • ,, ^^ JAMES TAYT nn r» t»

Assisted by Profossnro T, , ^-^^^''K, D.D.,

THE CASTLES AND :^YS OF ENGLAND
I, 1'™ HISTORY OF WALES

liNGLAND.
Librarian to Her M,ve<,iv f},« n ^';;'^^>'AJ{U,

,o„o, ,r . CANADIAN SCExNERY.

1^0 hteel EngraviriRS, after Drawing's bv AV H n

lo« « 1 „ . ^"'"ZEBLAND ILLUSIRATED

n, T T ™^ LIBERATORS OF ITALY-
0», T„. L,v.» 0, G,.,,„,, , ,_ V,i™rEM».„.., Co„„

,„ , , , . , tAvoun, AKD Napolkon m.

THE CHRISTIAN IN PALESTINE ;

Or, Scenes of Sacred History, HiSTORicAXi and Descriptive.

EY HENRY STEBBING, D.D., F.R.S.

80 Steel Engravings, from Drawings taken on tho spot by W. H. Bautlett.

4to. cloth, gilt edges, 258.

WALKS AliOUT THE CITY AND ENVIRONS OF

JERUSALEM.

BY W. H. BARTLETT.

With 56 Engravings on Steel and "Wood. Royal 8vo. cloth extra, gilt edges,

lOs. 6d.

THE ART- JOURNAL,

PnWishod Monthly, contains Three Steel Engravings of Ficturea by the best
INlHsters; also rumeroiis A'v'ood Engravings. Monthly Parts, 28. 6d. ; Yearly
Volumes, 31s. 6d.

THE ART-JOURNAL ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE
GREAT INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITIONS.

Royal 4to. cloth, gilt edges.

THE LONDON EXHIBITION, 1851
THE DUBLIN EXHIBITION, 1853.
THE PARIS EXHIBITION, 1855 .
THE LONDON EXHIBITION, 1862
THE PARIS EXHIBITION, 1867 .

Price 21s.
Price 10s. 6d.
Price lOs. Od.
Price 21s.
Pvice 21s.

THE PICTORIAL EDITION OF THE WORKS OF WILLIAM

SHAKSPERE.

EDITED BY CHARLES KNIGHT.

Containing upwards of 1,2J0 Illustrations. New and carefully Revised Edition.
Eight vols., royal 8vo. cloth, £4 4s.

THE COMPLETE WORKS OF ROBERT BURNS.

With Notes and Life by Allan Cunnixoiiam, and a copious Glossary. Illus-
trated by 60 Engravings, from Designs by Bautlett and others. Royal 8vo.
cloth, 24 s.

THE POETICAL WORKS OF LORD BYRON.

With Notes, Memoir, and 28 Steel Engravings. Royal 8vo. cloth, 18s.

VIRTUE AND CO.'s PUBLICATIONS.

THE SELF-INTEIIPIIETING BIBLE
^^'J^^UN BROWN, of Haddington
With additiopal Notes from Scott, Henrv lliiwcis tv x.„ v c ,

Engravings, lioyal 4to. bevel'lat cUh/rtd cdtos. Lr"""' ^'''^

A GUIDE TO FAMILY DEVOTION.

BY ALEXANDEll FLKTCllElt, D.D.
With numerous EngraVngs on Stool. Edited by Dr. Eau:.. Royal 4to. cloth

gilt edges, 288. ^ ''"'

ILLUSTRATED BOOKS FOR THE YOUl^Q.

NAOMI;
Ob, the Last Days of Jerusalem.
With View of Jerusalem and numerous Illustrations on Wood and Sf«„l k
(.ii.BBUTandBAKTi.ETT. Foolscap 8vo. cloth. Ts Cd. ^''^ ^^

THE PILLAR OF FIR^r, ..r^el in Bondage.
. BY J. H. INGPAIIAM, LL.D.

With Eight lUustrations. Foolscap Svo. cloth, 5s.

THE THRONE OF DAVID
Fbom the Consecration of the Shepherd of'bethlehem to the
Rebellion of Prince Absalom.
BY J. H. INGRAHAM, LL.D.

With Eight Illustrations. Foolscap 8vo. cloth, Ss.

THE PRINCE OF THE HOUSE OF DAVID;
Ob, Three Years IN THE Holy City.
BY J. H. INGRAHAM, LL.D.

With Eight Illustrations. Foolscap 8vo. cloth, Ss. 6d.

' THE HOLY LAND, PAST AND PRESENT:

Sketches of Travel in Palestine.
BY HENRY S. OSBORN, M.A.
With Fifty Engravings on Steel and Wood. Small crown 8 vo. cloth extra, Ss. 6d.

'' Hll

III

i m

THE FLOWER OF CHRISTIAN CHIVALRY.

BY MRS. W. R, LLOYD,

Author of " Pictures of Hevoes, and Lessons from their Lives." Nfiw Edition,
with' Thirty-four Illustrations by J. D. Watson and others.

CoNTKNTE : — 1. Bernard of Menthon, the Apostle of the Alps — 2. Saint Bernard
of Clairvanx — .3. Savonarola : his Friends and his Enemies — 4. Philippe Pinel —
5. The Abb*5 de I'Epee and the Abbo Sicard — 6. Patrick Hamilton and his Times
— 7. Andrew Melville and his Contemporaries — 8. The Good Bishop Bedell —
9. Granville Sharp — 10. Henry Marcyn and Henry Kirke White.

Small crown 8vo. cloth extra, 38. 6d.

THE SEASIDE NATURALIST:

Out-Door Studies in Marine Zoology and Botany, and Maritime

Geology.
BY a. W. ERASER, M.A.,

Author of " Curiosities of the Sea Shore," «&c. New Edition, with a Chapter on
the Marino Viva'-y. With 37 Illustrations by H. Noel Humpuueys, J. Wolf,
&c. &c. Small oi'own 8vo. cloth extra, Be. 6d.

' A MANUAL OF THE MOLLUSCA:
A Treatise of Recent and Fossil Shells.
BY DR. S. P. WOODWARD, A.L.S.

Second Edition, with an Appenlix of Recent and Fossil Archfcological Dis-
coveries to the Present Time, \y Ralph Tate, A.L.S., F.G.S. With numerous
Illustrations on Steel and "Vlood by A. N. Watekhouse and J. W. LowRif.
r2mo. cloth exira, gilt top, 78. 6d.

GAME AND WATER BIRDS.

An Anecdotal and Descriptive / ■ count of the Feather Game and V7ild 7owl
found in Great Brftaiu. With a Practical Chapter on Doves and Pigeons.

BY H. G. ADAMS.

New Edition, with upwards of 60 Illustrations by Haiihipon Weir, Willi .m
Harvi.^, F. W. Keyl, and others. Small crown 8vo. cloth, Ss. 6d.

Contents : — Pheasants — Partridges and Quails — Grouse — Water Birds, Cranes,
and Bustards- —Probers — Sandpipers, etc. — Tattlers, etc. — Snipes and Woodcocks
— Stalkers, Bitterns, and Heron. — Storks, etc. — Rails, Craiks, &c. Swimming
Birds : Geese — Swans — Ducks and their Relatives — Scaup Ducks — Goosanders —
Divers — Auk8,Guillemot8, etc. — Cormorants, etc. — Plungers, Petrels, etc. — Gulls
— Sea Swallows. Appendix : Doves and Pigeons.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

THE BIRDS OF PREY.

An Anecdotal and Descriptive Account of tha Rapacious Birds of Britain. \Vith
a Chapter on Ancient and Modern Hawking.

BY H. G. ADAMS.

Now Edition, with about CO Illustrations by F. W Keyl, Hauvey, and others.
Small crown 8vo. cloth, Ss. 6d.

Contents : — Vultures and Eagles — Falcona — Buzzards, Kites, Hawks, and
Hitrrieri — Owls — Crows and Rooks — Ravens and Jackdaws — Magpies, Jayb, luid
NutcrHjkers — Starlings and Dippers — Cuckoos and Wrynecks — Swallows and
Swi'ls — Woodpeckers — Kingflsheis and Bee-Eaters — Flycatchers, Chatterers,
and Rollers — Tits and Chrikes — Ancient and Modern Hawking.

WINTER EVENINGS;

Ob, Tales of Travellers.

BY MARIA HACK.

With Eight Illustrations by Gilmeut and Hauvey. New Edition, Tcap. 8vo.
: cloth extra, 38. 6d.

:.TORIES FROM GRECIAN HISTORY.

BY MARIA HACK.

With Eight Illustrations. New Edition, foolscap 8vo. cloth, Ss. 6d.

STORIES FROM GRECIAN HISTORY.

BY MARIA HACK.

Small Edition, with Illustrations by J. Gilueiit. 12mo. cloth, 28. Gd.

ROMANTIC TALES FROM ENGLISH HISTORY.

BY MAY BEVERLEY,

Author of " Moor Cottage: a Tale," &c. New Edition, with 23 Illustrations.
Small crown 3vo. cloth, 3s. Cd.

Contents : — 1. Light in Dark Times : How Prioi' Rahere founded the Hospital
of St. Bartholomew — 2. The Patrio'. Earl ; or, how the Battle of Evesham was
fought — 3. The Royal Bride ; or, how Queen Anno loved her People — 4. Ludlow
Custle and what befel there- 5. The Last of the Lords High Constable.

THE PERILS AND ADVENTURES OY HARRY SKIPWITH.

BY W. H. G. KINGSTON,

Author of " True Blue," " Three Midshipmen," " Foxholme Hall," &c. With
numerous Illustrations. Foolscap 8vo. cloth extra, 3s. 6d.

VIKTUR AND CO. S PUBLtcATIONS.

FOXHOLME HALL:

A Legend of Chbistmas, and other amusing Tales fob Boys.

BY W. H. a. KINGSTON.

With Thirty Illustrations. Foolscap 8vo. cloth extra, 3s. 6d.

THE PIRATE'S TREASURE :

A Legend of Panama, and other Tat^jis fob Boys.

BY W. H. G. KINGSTON.

With numerous Illustrations. Foolscap Svo. cloth extra, 3s. 6d.

THE CANADIAN CRUSOES :

A Tale of the Rice Lake Plains.

BY MRS. TRAILL.

Edited by Miss Strickland, illustrated by Hakvby. Foolscap 8vo. cloth

extra, 38. 6d.

TALES OF MANY LANDS.

BY M. FRASER TYTLER,

Author of "The Wonder Seeker," "Tales of the Great and Bravo," "Wooden
Walls of Old England," &c. With Illustrations by Anelay. Foolscap S'-o.
cloth extra, Ss. 6d.

NOW OR NEVER;

Or, the Trials and Perilous Adventures of Frederick Lonsdale.

BY CHARLES A. BEACH,

Author of " Lost Leonore." With numerous Illustrations. Foolscap 8vo. cloth

extra, 3s. 6d.

TALES OF CHIVALRY AND ROMANCE.

BY DAYID SMITH,

Author of " Karl of the Locket, and his Three Wishes." V» ith numerous Illus-
trations. Foolscap Svo. cloth extra, 3a. 6d.

FRIENDLY HANDS AND KINDLY WORDS.

Stories illustrative of the Law of Kindness, the Power of Perseverance, and the
Advantages of Little Helps. With many Illustrations. Small crown Svo. cloth
extra, 3s. 6d.

VIBTUE AND CO.'s PUBLICATIONS.

FAJVIOUS SHIPS OF THE BRITISH NAVY-
Showing the Enterprise and Dabino of British Seamen.
K VAu- . ^^ ^- ^- DAVENPORT ADAMS.
Now Ed.t.on. wxth Portraits and liluatrations. S.all crown 8vo. cloth extra, 3s. 6d.

THE WAVE AND THE BATTLE-FIELD:

Stories of Adventure by Sea and Land.

^^'S^.^^l^'^'^J^i^^^^^ n. On the Coast, or
Gifts; IV. Lily Melville, the malert DauK'''"^^^^ "' '^"" Maroquita's

BY LOUISA STEWART,
Author o.<Athelino,ortheC^.^^Se..^. in.t.ated. S.all crown

Bv .. A .. ^E^OINES OF THE HOUSEHOLD.

in France-CaroTne CW«; wf^^^^^^ ""l^ ^'''""^'^ «^' the Poor

(Mrs.Schimmelpenninck)-SoKaLrwe^^^^^ Perthes-Mary Anno Galton

among the Navvies. ^ i^aistrwerth Doaconesses-Miss Marsh's Labours

ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF ABYSSLNIA;

Or, The Tiger Prince.

BY WILLIAM DALTON,

THE DOCTOR'S LITTLE DAUGHTER

BY ELIZA METEYARD («SiMEUi.EN").
Iho Story of a Child's Life amidst the Woods and Hills With n„rr,«

trations by Hauvz.. Eoolscap Svo.'cblh, ght edg^s^ ^°"' "^"'^-

EECOLLECIIONS OF MM. ANDEESOxN'S SCHOOL

BY MBS. IIOOPKE.

ABookforOirh. Ne.v EOitioo, witt IW II,„,t.,U„n. Fo„l.,ap 8v„. d„.l,,

i i

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

THE LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF ROBINSON CRUSOE,

Who lived Twenty-eight Years on an Uninhabited Island ; and an Account of
his Deliverance. With many Steel Engravings. l8mo. cloth, 28.

SANDFORD AND MERTON.

A Story for Children. Now Edition, with Illustrations. 18mo. cloth, 2s.

RHYMES FOR THE NURSERY.

By the Author of " Original Poems." With Sixteen lUustrations by Gilbert.
Square 16mo. cloth, gilt edges, 2s, 6d.

ORIGINAL POEMS FOR INFANT MINDS.

By the Author of " llhymes for tlie Nursery." Illustrated hy H. Anelay. Fools-
cap 8vo., cloth extra, gilt edges, 5s.

THE BASKET OF FLOWERS ;

Ob, Piety and Truth Triumphant.

BY G. T. BEDELL, D.D.

A Tale for the Young. 32mo. cloth, gilt edges, Is.

NOVELS.

HE KNEW HE WAS RIGHT.

BY ANTHONY TROLLOPE.

Illustrated by Maucus Stone. Now publishing in Weekly Numbers, price 6J.

each.

PHINEAS FINN, THE IRISH MEMBER.

BY ANTHONY TROLLOPE.

Illustrated by J. E. Millais, R.A. Now publishing Monthly in " St. Pauls."

THE SACRISTAN'S HOUSEHOLD.

By the Author of "Mabel's Progress," "Aunt Margaret's Trouble," &c., &c.
Now publishing Monthly in " St. Pauls."

VIRTUE AND CO.'s PUBLICATIONS.

AIL FOR GREED.
BY THE BARONESS BLAZE DE BURY
^W.th Illustrations by G. H. Thomas. Two Vols., crown 8m cloth 2ls

di«t.„gmsh it from E„„li8h provindal fe a e',m Zd b ^ e I an H;""'**^'"^ ♦"" f^'"'" ^^'^"^

.... The two pnestsare well-consideied portrays ^ ti,^^m°^ "1^ '''"" nc'-'us'omed to both,
vZT "?•'." 1"''" "."" «"^-''"<''' ""^■•e«t inVvll pirtlire^ r i.Tn'^n",*'; i^.a-fanRe creation.
Frenci, i„8,i,„t,„n». the tone of thought, the l"ibits of Ufe fh« m^n """".4 '''•■' '" "'e wrkinR of
real pleasure in reading this book."-£iamt„Vr ' "*""ers of the people, wiU find much

PROSY JANE : A Novel.

BY GEORGE GRAVES, MA.

Two Vols., post 8vo. cloth, 2l8.

TIL£ SECRET DISPATCH ;

Ob, The Adventures op Captain bIlgonie

BY JAMES GRANT,

Author of « The Roma.co of War," « The Scottish Cavaliers." &c.. &c.

HUGH TRAFFORD : A Novel.

BY JfARTHA LEE.

Two Vols., post Svo.

PAUL GOSSLETT'S CONFESSIONS IN LOVE, LAW, AND THE

CIVIL SERVICE.

Illustrated by Marcus Stone. Post Svo. cloth, 2$. 6d. '/

TRUE OF HEART.

BY KAY SPEN.
Crown Svo. cloth, 5s.

~;^i:sss:';^'}^i'S-n;;^^::^;s:;^^ f"-"-" the

dred hght pa«es of plea.ant and pure K. gli^. p^si ts .« wi h LVfl"'' *''"• "' J"'* ""-^^ J'"""
.*aractcrs, .-s m„ny pa.hetic scenes, and two ove st ie" K^^T'l"''^" agreeable and life-like

« slight, but some of the portraitures are bo.h viyorou 'and delicl.te -ir^^l,*^^^^^ °' "" "''""^'^^

FRANK FAIRLEGH;

Or, Scenes from the Life of a Private Pupil

BY FRANK E. SMEDLEY.

With 30 Illustrations by George Cruikshank. Svo. cloth, 10s 6d

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

HARRY COVERD ALE'S COURTSHIP, AND WHAT CAME OF IT.

By the Author of " FrankFairleph." With lUustrationa by Hablox K. Bhownb
("Phiz"). 8vo. cloth, 10s. 6d.

LEWIS ARUNDEL ;
Ob, The Railroad of Life.

By the Author of " Frank Fairlcgh." "With Illustrations by Hablot K, Brownb
(" Phiz '•). 8vo. cloth, I2s. 6d.

THE FORTUNES OF THE COLVILLE FAMILY.

By the Author of " Frank Fairlegh." With Seven Tales by Seven Authors

tF. E. Smedley, M. F. Tuppeu, Mrs. S. C. Hall, Miss M. B. Smedley, Miss
Jurbury]. Edited by the Author of " Frank Fairlegh. With Frontispiece
and Vignette Title by " Phiz." Crown 8vo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

CHEAP EDITIONS OF THE FRANK FAIRLEGH SERIES.

Crown 8vo.
FRANK FAIRLEGH. Boards, 2s. 6d. ; cloth, 3s. 6d.
HARRY COVERDALE. Boards, 2s. 6d. ; cloth, 3s. 6d.
LEWIS ARUNDEL. Boards, 3s. ; cloth, 4s.
COLVILLE FAMILY. Boards, 2s. 6d.

DICTIONARIES AND BOOKS OF BEFERENCE.

A CYCLOPEDIA OF THE USEFUL ARTS, MECHANICAL AND
CHEMICAL, MANUFACTURES, MINING, AND ENGINEER-
ING.

BY CHARLES TOMLINSON, F.R.S.

Illustrated by more than 3,000 Engravings on Steel and Wood. New Edition.
Three vols., royal 8vo. cloth, £3 15s.

BARCLAY'S UNIVERSAL ENGLISH DICTIONARY.

Now Edition, adapted to the Present State of Science.

BY B. B. WOODWARD,

Librarian to Her Majesty the Quoen. With numerous Engravings and Maps.

4to. cioth, 32s.

^ A DICTIONARY OF TERMS UBED IN ART

A TECHNICAL DICTIONARY OF TERMS USED IN
ARCHITECTURE,

SS^:5'^rfZ^£^Sir'^"'-^Tl ^r^^S'^n; Early and
various subjects connected wfthXpliedArSsSe^^^^^^ Observations on

BY JOHN WEALE.
12mo. cloth, rod edges, 5s.

A DICTIONARY OF THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE

BY HYDE CLARKE, D.C.L.

Containing more than 100,000 Wcrds. 12mo. cloth, red edges, Ss.

A FRENCH AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY.

BY ALFRED ELWES

In Two Pa:.s:-L ^-h-En^J;^; ^ l, ,.,,., .^,,,,. ^,^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^

A SPANISH AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY.
BY ALFRED ELWES

In Two Parts :-L Spanish-English; II English-Spanish. 12mo. cloth, red

edges, 08.

AN ITALIAN, FxlENCH, AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY

BY A. ELWES.

In Three Parts. 12mo. cloth, red edges, Ts. 6d.

A GERMAN, FRENCH, AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY
BY N. E. S. A. HAMILTON.
12mo. cloth, red edges, 4s. -

A HEBREW AND ENGLISH LEXICON.

BY DR. BRESSLAU.

In Two Parts. Two vols., 12mo. cloth, red edges, 12s.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

A GREEK AND ENGLISH LEXICON.
BY H. R. HAMILTON.
In Two Pttrta: — I. Greek-English ; II. English-Greek. 12mo. cloth, red edges, Ss.

A LATIN AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY.

BY REV. T. GOODWIN, M.A.

In Two Parts: — I. Latin-English; II. English-Latin. 12mo. cloth, rod edges,

4s. 6d.

GRAMMARS AND ELEMENTARY BOOKS ON

LANGUAGE.

ENGLISH GRAMMAR. By Hyde Clauke, D.C.L. Is.

HANDBOOK of COMPARATIVE PHILOLOGY. By Hyde Clauke, D.C.L.
Is.

FRENCH GRAMMAR. By G. L. Sthavss. Is.

FRENCH and ENGLISH PHRASE BOOK. Is.

L'ECHO de PARIS : Phrases used in Daily Conversation. By M. Le Page.
3s. 6d.

FLUENCY in FRENCH CONVERSATION. By M. Le Page. 2s. Cd.

FRENCH MASTER for BEGINNERS. By M. Le Page. 28. 6d.

GERMAN GRAMMAR. By G. L. Strauss. Is.

GERMAN READER. By G. L. Stkauss. Is.

SPANISH GRAMMAR. By A. Elwes. Is.

SPANISH GRAMMAR. By McHenuy. 6s.

EXERCISES in SPANISH. By McHenuy. 3s.

ITALIAN GRAMMAR. By A. Elwes. Is.

LATIN GRAMMAR. By Rov. T. Goodwin. Is.

GREEK GRAMMAR. By H. C. Hamilton. Is.

HEBREW GRAMMAR. By Dr. Buesslau. Is.

HISTORICAL WORKS.

HUME AND SMOLLETT'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND,

With a Continuation to the Year 1859.

BY E. FARR AND DR. E. H, NOLAN.

With 109 Plates and Maps, engraved on Steel. Three vols., imperial 8vo. cloth,

£3 3d.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND,

Uore especially with Reference to the Origin and Prugress of the Engliuh

Constitution.

BY WILLIAM DOUGLAS HAMILTON,

Of tlio OfHcc of Public Records. 12mo. cloth, with red edges, «5s.

HISTORY OF ENGLAND DURING THE REIGN OF

GEORGE III.

BY J. G. PIIILLIMORE.

Vol. I., 8vo. cloth, 188.

DOMESTIC MANNERS AND SENTIMENTS IN ENGLAND

DURING THE MIDDLE AGES.

BY THOMAS WRIGHT, M.A., F.S.A.

With Illustrations by F. W. Faikuolt, F.S.A. Foolscap 4to. cloth, red edges,

218.

THE HISTORY OF WALES,
From the Earliest Times to its Final Incorporation ^VITII England.

BY B. B. WOODWARD,

Librarian to her Majesty the Quoon. Illustrated with 75 Steel Plates, repre-
senting views of remarkable places, antiquiti !s, and scenery. Two vols., super-
royal 8vo., cloth gilt, 28s.

THE PICTORIAL HISTORY OF SCOTLAND,

From the Roman Invasion to the Close of the Jacobite Rebellion,

A.D. 79—1746.

BY JAMES TAYLOR, D.D.,

Assisted by Professors Lindsay and EAniE, Dr. John Anderson, G. MacDonald,
kc. With numerous Engravings on Steel. Two vols., royal 8vo. cloth, 4«s.

A HISTORY OF CARICATURE AND GROTESQUE IN

LITERATURE AND ART.

BY THOMAS WRIGHT, M.A., F.S.A.

With Illustrations by F. W. Faiuhoi.t. F.S.A. Foolscap 4to. cloth, red edges,

21s.

HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,

With a Continuation by Charles Mackay, Esq., LL.D,

Illustrated with Steel Engravings and Colouied Maps. Two vols., imperial 8vo.

cloth, 4ds.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

HISTORY OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE IN INDIA AND

THE EAST,

From the Earliest Times to the Suppression of the Sepoy Mutiny in 1859.

BY E. H. NOLAN, rn.D., LL.D.

With numerous Steel Engravings and INIaps. Two vols., royal 8vo. cloth, 468.

HISTORY OF THE WAR AGAINST RUSSIA.
BY E. H. NOLAN, Ph.D., LL.D.
With numerous Steel Engravings and Maps. Two vols., royal 8vo. cloth, 46s.

THE DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE.

BY E. GIBBON.

With numerous and additional Notes from the French of M. Guizor. With Five
Engravings and Maps. Two vols., super-royal 8vo. cloth, 368.

OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF ROME,

From the Earliest Period to the Christian Era and the Commencement of the

Decline of the Empire.

BY EDWARD LEVIEN, M.A.,

Of Balliol College, Oxford. With Map of Roman Italy. 12mo. cloth, red edges,

3s. 6d.

OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF GREECE,

In connection with the Rise of the Arts and Civilisation in Europe.

BY WILLIAM DOUGLAS HAMILTON AND EDWARD LEVIEN, M.A.

12mo. cloth, red edges, 3s. 6d.

THE WORKS OF JOSEPHUS.

WITH AN ESSAY BY REV. H. STEBBINQ.

With 92 Woodcuts and 4G Steel Engravings. Royal 8vo. cloth, 25a.

ANALYSIS AND SUMMARY OF BIBLE HISTORY.
BY J. TALBOYS WHEELEI, F.R.G.S.,

Assistant-Secretary to the Government of India.

The Old Testament. Post 8vo. cloth, red edges, os. 6d.
The New Testament. Post 8vo. cloth, red edges, 5s. 6d.

VIRTUE AND CO.'s PirnLICATIONS.

PHYSICAL AND NATURAL SCIENCE, &c

A TBEATISE OX FRICTIONAL ELECTKICITY, IN THEORY

AND PRACTICE ^tit^OHY

F,lif.l -.u ,r ^^ ^"* ^^- ^^'^'''^ HARRIS, F.R.S
Kditod. mth Bremoir, by Caulks Tcmlivsov F R S w?»,

tioHH. 8vo cloth, I4s ^^'^^ ""'"''^°"« ^"'^tra-

THE ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH
«Y ROBERT SABINE, F.S.A.

With many Illustrations. 8vo oh.th, 12s. 6d.

Jir SIR W. SNOW HARRIS, P.R s

Illustrated throughout. 12mo. cloth, 7s. 6d.

Iho Treatises may be had separatolv
ELECTRICITY . /' ,

GALVANISM . ." ; ' H' ^f
MAGNETISM . . . [ ^ '^^^

A TREATISE ON THE METALLURGY OF IRON

Containing Outlines of the Hisfnrv «f T n. ^^^^^* ^* IKON,

, . ^Y H. BAUERMAN, F G S

Associate of the Royal School of Minnu tii * ^ / .''

THE METALLURGY OF COPPER •

An L,troduction to the Methods of Sookin.. Mining nil I ' • r,

Manufacturing ft; AIlcl^s^' '''^^''"^ ^"l^P^'"' ""'J

BY ROBERT H. LAMBORN, P„ D
^ew Edition, with Index. Jlhistrated. 12mo. limp cloth. 2s.

THE METALLURGY OF SILVER AND LEAD

|:i&^rt^^:,^-i^-nd Phimbi.^^^^ MiLrals, the

World t.r treating the Oi^ ^ SHver and^SS ICrXi^^Si^ S.l^{^

Bi R. H. LAMBORN, Ph.D.

Illustrated. 12mo. limp cloth. 2s.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

THE RUDIMENTS OF GEOI.OaY, FOR THE USE OF

BEGINNERS.

BY MAJOR-OENERAL PORTLOCK, F.R.S., F.O.S., &c.

With Illustrations and Index. 12mo. limp cloth, Is. 6d.

THE RUDIMENTS OF MINERALOGY:

A CoNcisK View of the General Pioperties of Minerals.

BY ALEXANDER RAJISAY, Jvn.

rinio. cloth, 38.

A TREATISE ON COAL AND COAL MINING.

BY WARINGTON W. SMYTH, M.A., F.R.S.

lUustrtttod. Post 8vo, cloth, 78. 6d.

A MANUAL OF THE MOLLUSCA : Recent and Fossil Shells.

BY S. P. WOODWARD, A.L.S.

Second Edition. With Appendix of Recent and Fossil ConcholoRical Discoveries
to the Present Time, by Ralph Tate, A.L.S., F.G.S., &c. With Illustrations
on Steel and Wood by A. N. Watekhovse and G. W. Lowuy. I'imo. cloth,
extra with gilt top, Ts. 6d.

RUDIMENTARY CHEMISTRY.

BY PROFESSOR FOWNES.

With Appendix on Agiicultural Chemistry. Now Edition, with Index. 12mo.

limp cloth, Is.

INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF NATURAL PHILOSOPHY.

For the Use of Beginners.

BY CHARLES TOMLINSON, F.R.S.

Sixth Edition, with Index. 12mo. cloth. Is.

A POPULAR TREATISE ON PHOTOGRAPHY.

Also, a Description of, and Remarks on, the Ster'^oscope and Photographic

Optics, &c., &c.

BY VAN MONCKHOVEN.

Translated by W. H. Thoknthwaite, Ph.D. 12mo. limp cloth. Is. 6d.

EXPERIMENTAL ESSAYS ON THE MOTION OF CAMPHOR,

AND ON THE MODERN THEORY OF DEW.

BY CHARLES TOMLINSON, F.R.S.

r2mo. limp cloth. Is.

VIRTtTK AND CO.'s I'lIHLICATIONS.

rxEnMAi7(<s FOR THK Use of i^eginners.

Thud Ldition, enlarged. 12mo. limp cloth. Is. fid.

HISTORY AND PROGRESS OP^ ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH

^^ ith Do«eription of some of the Apparatus. '^''''"^™'
BV ROBERT 8ABINE, C.E.
12mo. limp eloth, 38.

THE HANDBOOK OF THE TFTFrPAPw

BY R. BOND.
12mo. limp cloth, Is.

New Edition, with conside^ble additional^ J.ttor. ' 12.0; limp cloth. 2s.

A TREATISE ON OPTICS •
Or Light and Sight Theoretically and PRlcTrrAiTv T

WITH THE Application to Fivf Art.v^ t ^ Treated,

10 riNE Art and Industrial Pursuits
BY E. NUGENT, C.E.
With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo. cloth, os.

AGRICULTURE^ARMING, &c.

AGRICULTURE, ANCffiNT AND MODERN •
A Historical Account of its PRTNrTnr,.u . ^^^^"^ •

FIED IN THEIR RiSE Ppn, «. tT P«^«"«^. EXEMPLI-

IHEIR ItiSE, IROGRESS, AND DEVELOPMENT

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

THE FARM STUDENT;
Ob, Outlines of Modern Farming.

Containing: — \. Soils, Manures, and Crops ; 2. Farming Economy ; 3. Stock —
Cattle, Sheop, and Horses ; 4. Management of the Dairy — Pigs, Poultry ; 5. Utili-
zation of Town Sewage, Irrigation, Reclamation of Waste Land, &c.
BY EGBERT SCOTT BURN.
Uludtrated. Two vob, 12mo. cloth, 148.
The Divisions may be had separately as foUowc : —

1. Soils, Manures, and Crops. 28.

2. Fanning and Farming Economy.

33.

3. Cattle, Sheep, and Horses. 28. 6d.

4. Management of the Dairy — Pigs
and Poultry. 2s.

6. Utilization of Town Sewage, Irriga-
tion, &c. 2s. 6d.

CLAY LANDS AND LOAMY SOILS,

Showing the Origin and Chemical Qualities of each variety of Land, Natural
Properties of the Soils, and Mode of Cultivation, Cropping, and Value of the
Lands, &c., &c.

BY PROFESSOR DONALDSON.

12mo. limp cloth, Is.

EGGS AND POULTRY AS A SOURCE OF WEALTH. Is.

PROFITABLE PIGS: How to Breed, Feed, and Make them
Pay. Is.

TURKEYS, GEESE, AND DUCKS, FOR PLEASURE AND
PROFIT. Is.

THE MANAGEMENT OF CATTLE AND THE DAIRY. By

Thompson Towxsend. Is.

MODERN FARRIERY:

A Manual of Veterinary Science.

Instructions for the Cure of all Diseases incidental to Horses, Cattle, Sheep,

Swine, and Dogs.

BY T. brown.

With Steel Engravings. 8vo. cloth, 13b. 6d.

THE DRAINAGE OF DISTRICTS AND LANDS.

BY G. DRYSDALE DEMPSEY, C.E.

12mo. limp cloth, la.

AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING.

A Treatise on Agricultural Buildings and Agricultural Mi.^ldnes and

Implements.

BY G. H. ANDREWS, C.E.

Numerous Illustrations. 12mo. limp cloth, 38.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

COMMERCIAL LITERATURE.

TABLES OF SEVIPLE INTEREST,

At 5, i^, 4, 3^, 3, and 2^ per Cent, per Annum.

From 1 Day to 365 Days, from 1 Month to 12 Months, and from 1 Year to 12
Years, advancing successively by single pounds from £1 to £100, by hundreds to
i.'1.000, and by thousands to £20,000. Also, Tables o*' Compound Interest, and
Interest on large sums for a single day at the above *ates ; with copious Tables
of Commission and Brokerage, fiom J to 10 per cent. With a New Time Table.

BY JAMES LAL'RIE.

Thirtieth Edition. 8vo. cloth, 20s.

" In counting-houses, Interest Tabbs ure vesy frequently made use of. Such publications have,
in consequenco, become very numerou!!. Most of tliem liave some peculiar recommendations, but
in the great requisites of simplicity of arrangement and comprehensiveness, we have seen ni^ne
better adapted fur general use thun those published by Mr. Laurie." — McCuUuc/t'i: Cuinmercial Vic-
tiunary.

LAURIE'S HIGH RATE TABLES.
Tables of Simple Interest, at 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, anl \(^ per Cent.

PER Annum.

From 1 Day to 100 Days, and from 1 Month to 12 jMonths, each rate advancing
successively by single pounds from £1 to £100, by hundreds to £1,000, and by
thousands to 20,000. Also, copious Tables of Connniasion or Brokerage, from
i to ?.0 per cent.

BY JAMES LAURIE.
Ninth Edition. 8vo. cloth, 78.

" Mr, Laurie was well known as one of the most correct and induf irious authorities in Commer-
cial Calculations, ivnd the practical value of his various Tables has long been recvigniaed." — Times,
Sept. 20, 1854.

UNIVERSAL EXCHANGE TABLES,

Showing the Value of the Coins of every Country, interchanged with each other
at all rates of Exchange, from one coin to one million coins. Also, Discounts,
Profits, Stocks, Investments, &c., at every rate jier cent.

BY JAMES LAURIE.
Second Edition. 8vo. cloth, 20s.

TABLES OF EXCHANGE BETWEEN FRANCE AND

ENGLAND.

Tables of Exchange between Paris, Bordeaux, Marseilles, Havre, Lyons, Brus-
sels, Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, Genoa, and London ; being French money reduced
into English, and English money reduced into Freiii'h, from 23 francs to 26J
francs per pound sterling, in rates, each advancing by 2\ centimes : showing the
value 'rom one franc to one million of francs in English money, and from one
pound to any niuuber of millions of pounds in Frencli money. Also, Tables of
Commission in French and English moneys, from J to 5 per cent.

BY JAMES LAURIE.
8vo. bound in calf, 208.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

TABLES OF EXCHANGE BETWEEN MADEIRA AND

LONDON;

Or, Portuguese Money reduced to English, and English Money reduced to Poi-tu-
giiese, at the par of exchange, and from 19 to 40 per cent, premium ; with a
Table of Premiums at par, and from 1 to 40 per cent. Also, Tahles of the Coxirso
of Exchange between London, the Brazils, Oporto, and Lisbon, &c.

BY JAMES LAURIE.
8vo. cloth, 6s.

EXPOSITOR OF FOREIGN EXCHANGES :

Being British Coins reduced into the IMoneys of Tv ty-four of the Principal

Countries of the World.

BY JAMES LAURIE.

On one sheet royal, mounted on linen, and folded in book form, 3s.

MANUAL OF FOREIGN EXCHANGES :

Being British Coins reduced into the Moneys of the Principal Coimtries of fie
World ; also, from one to one million coins of these countries in decimals of the
pound, and a list of coins of each country, with their intrinsic value in sterling ;
also, Tables showing the approximate difiference on £100 between each rate ;
French and Turkish Exchange, &c., &c.

BY JAMES LAURIE.

Fifth Edition. Royal 32mo. 9d.

BRITISH AND FOREIGN SHARE TABLES,

Adapted to Railroads and other Public Companies, in rates showing the value
from one share to one thousand shares ; each rate advancing by one-sixth of a
pound to £12 lOs. per share, and by eighths to £100 per share, and so in propor-
tion to all foreign moneys.

BY JAMES LAURIi:.
12mo. cloth, 12s.

THE GOLDEN READY RECKONER,

Calculated in British Money and Dollars, showing the value from one ounce to
100,000 ounces : Gold, Platina, Silver, Goods and Merchandise of every descrip-
tion. Shares in Public Companies, &c., from one-sixteenth of a pound to £100,
and from one-sixteenth of a dollar to 100 dollars ; also calculated to show Profits,
Discounts, and Commissions at every rate per cent.

BY JAMES LAURIE.
12mo. cloth, 12s.

COMMERCLAIi ARITHMETIC. By W. Tate, Author of " The
Modem Cambist." 12mo. cloth, 28. 6d.

N.B. — A Key to the above, 3s. 6d.

SSSSHS*

VIRTUE AND CO. a PUBLICATIONS.

COMMERCIAL BOOKKEEPING. By James Haddon. 12mo. limp

cloth. Is.

READY RECKONER for MILLERS, FARMERS, and MER-
CHANTS ; showing the Value of any Quantity of Com, with the approxi-
mate value of Millstones and Mill Work. 12mo. limp cloth, Is.

WEIGHTS and MEASURES of ALL NATIONS ; Weights of Coins,
and Divisions of Time, with the Principles which determine the Rate of
Exchange. By W. S. B. Woolhovsb. 12mo. limp cloth, Is. 6d.

PRACTICAL HINTS for INVESTING MONEY ; with an Explana-
tion of the Mode of Transacting Business on the Stock Exchange. By
i'KANCis Pi/AYFOiiD, Swom Brokor. 12nio. limp cloth, Is.

CLASSICAL LITERATURE.

JUVENAL'S SATIRES. The Latin Text. With English Notes
Critical and Jxplanatory, and Piolegomena containing a Survey of Roman
Satire and Satirists, by Thomas Hay S. Esgott, M A., of Queen's College,
Oxford, Lecturer on Logic at King's College. 12mo. cloth, 4s.

HOMERI CARMINA: The Iliad, the Odyssey, and the Hymns.
The Greek Text. With Life of Homer, and English Notes Critical and
Explanatory, by T. H. L. Leaky, D.C.L., late Scholar of Brasenoso Col-
lege, Uxford. Four vols., Timo. vellum cloth, 16s.

iESCHYLUS. With English Notes by Rev. James Davies, M.A., of
Moor Court, Hereford, late Scholar of Lincoln College, Oxford.
PROMETHEUS VINCTUS. 12mo. limp cloth. Is.
SEPTEM CONTRA THEBAS. 12mo. limp cloth, Is.

EURIPIDES. With English Notes.

ALCESTIS. ]Jy J. Milneu, B.A., late Scholar of Queen's College, Oxford.

12mo. limp. Is.
HECUBA AND 51EDEA. By W. Bkownuigo Smith, M.A. 12mo.

limp. Is. Gd.

SOPHOCLES. With English Notes.

ANTIGONE. By J. Milneu, B.A. 12mo limp, 28.
(EDIPUS TYRANNUS. By Henry Youno. 12mo. limp. Is.

ARISTOPHANES. The Acharnians. With English Notes, by
C. S. D. Townshend. 12mo. limp. Is. 6d.

HERODOTUS. The Greek Text. With Life, Prolegomena, and
English Notes, by T. H. L. Lbaby, D C.L. Two vols., I2mo. vellum cloth, Ss.

VIRTUE AND CO. S PUBLICATIONS.

XENOPHON'S ANABASIS. The Greek Text. With English Notes
by Henhy Youno. 12mo. vellum cloth, 3s.

XENOPHON'S AGESILAUS. The Greek Text. With English
Notes by LI. F. W. Jewitt. 12mo. limp cloth, Is. Gd.

PLATO. The Apologia, Crito, and Ph^do. With English Notes
by Eev. Jahes Davies, M.A. 12mo. limp cloth, 28.

LUCIAN'S SELECT DIALOGUES. With English Notes by
HENiiy Young. 12mo. limp cloth, Is.

VIRGIL. The Latin Text. With English Notes by William Rush-
ton, M.A., and Henhy Youno. I2mo. vellmn cloth, 48. 6d.

HORACE. The Latin Text. With English Notes by W. Brownrigg
Smith, M.A. 12mo. vellum cloth, 3s. fid.

TERENCE. With English Notes by Rev. James Davies, M.A.

ANDRIA AND HEAUTONTIMORTJMENOS. 12mo. limp cloth, Is. 6d
ADELPHI, HECYRA AND PH0R3II0. 12mo. limp cloth, 2e.
EUNUCH US. 12mo. limp cloth.

CATULLUS, TIBULLU8, PROPERTIUS, AND OVID. Selections
from their Works. With linglish Notes by William Boduam Donne,
12mo. limp cloth, 2s.

CICERO'S ESSAYS ON OLD AGE, FRIENDSHIP, AND
FAMOUS ORATORS. The Latin Text. With English Notes by
W. BaowNRiQO Smith, M.A. l'",mo limp cloth, 2s.

C^SAR. DE BELLO GALLICO. With EngUsh Notes by Henry
Young. 12mo. limp cloth, 2s.

CORNELIUS NEPOS. With English Notes by Henry Young.
12mo. limp cloth. Is.

SALLUST. With English Notes by W. Mowbray Donne, B.A. 12mo.
limp cloth. Is fid.

LIVY. Books i. ii. iii. iv. v. xxi. and xxii. With EngHsh Notes by
H. Young and W. Buowniuoo Smith, M.A. Three vols., 12mo. limp
cloth, 4s. fid. Separately, Is. fid. each.

SELECTIONS FROM LATIN PROSE WRITERS.

M. Terentius Varro, L. Junius Columella, M. Vitruvius Pollio, M. Annaeus
Seneca, M. Fabius Quintilian, M. Annaeus Florus, C. Velleius Patorculus,
Valerius Maximus, C. Suetonius Tranquillus, L. Apuloius, and others.
Edited, with English Notes, by William Bosham Donne, H.M.H. Ex-
aminer of Plays, &c. 12mo. limp cloth, 2s.

VIBIUE AKD CO.'S PBUUtATIOllS.

MISCELLANEOtrS.

BRITISH SPORTS AND PASTIMES mpa
EDITED BY ANTHONY TKoSi *"•

3, Oa 8H00TINO ITT '^i"'''-'"'-

7. On ALPINE CLIMBING ^^7 e

8. On CEICKPT i^ ^ ^ ^^^^^^ Stephen.

^^iJ^KET. By Chakles Mekewetheu
in one vox., post 8vo. cloth, 10s. 6d.

ANOTHER ENGLAND. VICTORIA

BY E. CARTON BOOTH.

Post 8vo. cloth.

STUDIOUS WOMFiNT

presoat tims. 8 no ana Wale., f.mjfully prepared and cot4)led to the

A PLAIN GUIDE FOE SUIMrTin THE COUNTY COURT

BY A BARRISTER. ^^UUIU.

Small crown 8vo. cloth, 2s. 6d.

THE -BACKWOOdTpreACHER

AUTOBIOGBAPHY OP Peteb CartWEWHT.
Small crown Svo. cloth, 2s.

WithNoticesoT^W^rand'^tl^STf ^^^^^^^OOD.

and other Families ; andtSr^ of tStrt'K^iteSjst^y^^ ^^^^^
BY LLEWELLYNN JEwS p S i '^^°^'^^«-
Wxth Portrait and numer^uslllustrations.' 8vo tioth, 18s.

THE LIFE OF DR. THOMAS~ARNOLD, OF RUGBY
BY EMMA J. WORBOISE. ^*^^BY.

Foolscap Svo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

CATALOGXTE OF W0BK8

ART-JOUBNAL (The), Published Monthly, contains information
on every topic connected with the Fine Art*, and is nf value alike to the
Artist, the Amateur, the Student, the Manufacturer, and the Artisan,
Every Monthly Part contains, in addition to numeniut choice Wood En-
gravings scattered thrtingh the text, two beautiful Steel Bngravlugs of
Plqtures by the best Master*.

Montlily Parts, price 2s. 6d. each.

Yearly Volumes „ 31s, 6d. each.

Cases for Binding Yearly Volumes, 3s. each.

Reading Covers fur Monthly Parts, 3s. 6d. each.
N.B. — A new Series wm commenced In January, 1863.

Al.r-JOURNAL. The Series from 1849 to 1854, containing Tub
ViRNOil GiLLRkT. 6 Vols., 31s. 6d. each.

ART-JOURNAL. The Series from 1855 to 1861, containing The
ROTAL Gallert. 1 Vols., 31s. 6d. each.

ART- JOURNAL. The Series from 1862 to 1865, containing The
TUHMBR OALLtBT. 4 Vols., 31s. 6d. each.

ART- JOURNAL. The Volumes for 1866, 1867, and 1868. 31s. 6d.
each.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE

GREAT INDUSTRIAL EXHIBITION OK IhSl, containing upwards of
1,400 Engravings onWood, and Frontispiece on Steel. 4to. ol. gilt edges, 21s. ;
with additional Plates of Sculpture, 26s.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE

EXHIBITION OF ART INDUSTRY IN DUBLIN, 1853. Royal 4to.
cloth, gilt edges, 10s. 6d.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE

EXHIBITION OF ART INDUSTRY IN PARIS, 186». Royal 4to.
cloth, gilt edges, 10s. 6d.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF THE

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF 1862. Illustrated with nearly
1,600 Engravings on Wood, and 12 on Steel. Royal 4tu. cloth gilt, gilt
edges, 21s.

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OP THE

PARIS UNIVERSAL EXHIBIllON OF 1861, with Froutispieoe on Steel.
Royal 4to., cloth gilt, gilt edges, 21*.

ACKWORTH VOCABULARY, or English Spelling-Book 5 with
the Meaning atta'^hed to each Word. Compiled for the use of Ackworth
School. Mew Eallion. 18mo. cloth, is. 6d.

ADAMS (H. G.) GAME AND WATER BIRDS. Numerous
lUu&tiatlons. Small crown 8vo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

BIRDS OF PREY. With numerous Illustrations.

Crown 8vo. cloth, 3s. 6d.
ADAMS (W. H. Davenport) FAMOUS SHIPS OF THE

BRITISH NAVY; or, Stories of the Enterprise and Daring of BritUh
Seamen. With 9 Illustrations. Small crown 8vo., extra cloth, 3*. 6d.

ALL FOR GREED. A Novel. By the Baroness Blazk de Burt.

With Illustrations by G. H. Thomas. 2 Vols, post 8vo. cloth, 21s.

ARCHITECTURE. ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE. Gwilt

(J.), Architecture of &!. Vltruvius Pollio. Translated from the Latin. To
which Is prefixed, an Inquiry Into the Principles of Beauty in Qreolan
Architecture. By Gkobo i Earl or Abkrdben. 12mo. cloth, 7s.

ARCHITECTURE. MODERN ARCHITECTURE. The Orders,
by W. H. Leeds. The Styles of Various Countries, by T. Talbot Bort.
The Principles of Design In Architecture, by E. Lact Garbbtt. In 1 Vol.
12mo. cloth, 6*. 6d.

PUBLISHED BY TIKTITB AND CO.

ARNOLD (Dr. Thomas, of Rugby) LIFE. By E. J. Wobboibb.
Fo*p. Kvo. cloth, 3i. 6(1.

BAIRD (James, b.a.) THE MANAGEMENT OF HEALTH.
12mu. limp oloth, la.

GUIDE TO AUSTRALIA. 12mo. limp cloth, 28.

GUIDE TO TASMANIA AND NEW ZEALAND.

13mo. limp oloth.

BARBAULD'S LEMONS POUR DES ENFANTS, de I'Age de
Ueuz All* Jusqu'ii Cinq. Tnwluites de I'Anirlalse de Mme. Birriclo, par
M. PiHoniKm, et suivi«s d'un petit Uictionnalre Fraii$als-Anglati. Nou-
Telle Edition, revue, oorrig6e, et augments. ISmo. oloth, 3a.

HYMNES EN PROSE, pour les Enfante. Traduites

de I'AnglaUe par M. Clemenoe. Iftmo. limp oloth, U.

BARCLAY'S UNIVERSAL ENGLISK DICTIONARY. New

Edition, adapted to the prenent ktate of 8i:!ence. By B. U. Woodward.
Numeroiii EngraTlnga and Maps, 4to. oloth, 32s.

BARNES' NOTES ON THE NEW TESTAMENT, Explanatory
and Practical. Edited by Ingram Cobbih and Da. Hkmdbbson. With In-
troduotion by the Rev. U. Stebbwo. Steel Engravings. 3 Vols., 4to.
oloth, £2 8s.

BARTLETTS (W. H.) WALKS ABOUT THE CITY AND
ENVIRONS OF JERUSALEM. With 25 Steel Engravings and numerous
Woodcut Illustrations. Royal 8vo. cloth gilt, with gilt edges, 10s. (id.

BASKET OF FLOWERS ; or, Piety and Truth Triumphant. A
Tale for the Young. By O. T. Ukdkll, D.U. 32mo. oloth, gilt edges. Is.

BAUERMAN (H., f.o.s.) A TREATISE ON THE METAL-
LURGY OF IKON. Post 8vo. cloth, 12s.

BEACH (Chables, Author of "Lost Leonore") NOW OR
NEVER ; or, the Trials and Perilous Adventures of Frederick Lonsdale.
Fcap. 8vo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

BEATTIE'S (W., m.d.) THE CASTLES AND ABBEYS OF
ENGLAND. Illustrated with upwards of 200 Engravings ou Steel and
Wood. Imperial 8vo. oloth, 26s.

BELLENGER'S ONE HUNDRED CHOICE FABLES, in
French, Imitated firom La Fohtaihb. With Dictiorabt of Words and
Idiomatic Phrases, Qrammatlcally Explained. New Edition, revised by
C. J. Delillb. 12mo.cloth, Is. 6d.

BELLEW (Rev. J. M.) THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA
MINOR. With seven large Sleel Eagravings and several Woodcut«.
Royal 4lo. cloth, gilt edges.

BEVERLEY (Mat) ROMANTIC TALES FROM ENGLISH
HISTORY. New Edition, with 21 Illustrations. Small crown 8vo. oloth,
38. 6d.

BIBLE. THE SELF-INTERPRETING BIBLE. By John

Brown, of Haddington. With additional notes from Scott, Hbnrt.
UAWKid, Ac. Ac. Numerous Steel Engravings. Royal 4to. bevelled oloth,
red edgei, £2 2s.

. MATTHEW HENRYS COMMENTARY ON THE

HOLY BIBLB. Edited and Abridged by Rev. E. BLOMniiJi. With 62
Steel Engravings. 2 Vols, royal 4to. oloth, with gilt edges, £2 16s.

. THE DOUAY (Roman Catholic) TRANSLATION.

With Notes by Q. L. Uatoouc. Edited by the Very Rev. F. C. Hobrm-
beth, D.U. 62 Plates. 2 Vols. 4to. oloth, £3.

BOOTH (E. Carton) ANOTHER ENGLAND. VICTORIA.
Post 8V0. oloth.

CATALOGUE OF 'WORKS

BRENAN'S (Justin) COMPOSITION AND PUNCTUATION,

flkmiltarly explained for those who have neglected the Study of Grammar.
Fourteenth Edition, 12mo. limp cloth, Is.

BRITISH SPORTS AND PASTIMES. Edited by Anthony
Vkollopi. Post 8T0. cloth, 10s. 6d.

BROWN'S (J.) DICTIONARY OF TRE BIBLE. 2 Vols.
8to. cloth, 22s.

BROWN'S (T.) MODERN FARRIERY. A Manual of Veteri-
nary Science. Instructions for the Cure of all Diseases incidental to
Horses, Cattle, Sheep, Swine, and L*ogs. With Steel Engravings. 8vo.
cloth, 13s. 6d.

With Instructions in Hunting, Fishing,

and Field Sports. 8vo. cloth, 20s.

BUNYAN'S PILGRIM'S PROGRESS, Pictorial Edition. Illus-
trated by 86 fine Engravings on Wood. Also 23 Engravings on Steel,
with a Portrait and Facsimile of Juhii Bunyan's Will. Koyal avo. cl., 188.

HOLY WAR. Uniform with the above. Numerous

Illustrations. Royal bvo. cloth, 12s.

ENTIRE WORKS. Edited, with Original Intro-
ductions, Notes, and Memoir, by the Ilev. H. Stsbbwo. Illustrations on
Steel and Wood. 4 Vols, large 8vo. cloth, £2 12s.

BURN'S (Robert Scott) FARM-STUDENT ; or, OUTLINES
OF MODERN FARMING: Soils, Manures, and Crops; Farming Economy,
Historical and Practical ; Stock— Cattle, Sliecp, and Horses; Managemunt
of the Dairy— PIks— Poultry ; Utilization of Town Sewage— Irrigation-
Reclamation of Waste Land, Ac. Illustrated. 2 vols. l2mo., bound in
cloth, 14s.

BURNS' COMPLETE WORKS. Poems, Songs, and Letters.
With Notes and Life, by Allan Cunninquam; and a copious Glossary.
Illustrated by 33 Engravings from designs by Bartlktt, Aliom, and others,
and Portrait. Royal Svo. cloth, gilt edges, 18s.; or with Supplement,
containing 27 additional Plates, £1 4s.

BUTLER'S (Alban) LIVES OF THE SAINTS. Edited by
the Very Kev. F. C. <iU8endictb, D.D. With numerous Steel Engravings.
2 Vols, royal bvo. cloth, £2 Ss.

BYRON'S POETICAL WORKS. With Notes, Memoir, and 28
steel Engravings. Royal 8vo. cloth, 18s. ; or with Supplement, coDtaining
2S additional Engravings, £1 3s.

CAMPIN (F. W.) A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE LAW
OF PATENTS FOR INVENTIONS. 12mo.

CARLILE (Rev. J., d.d.),— MANUAL OF THE ANATOMY
AND PMYSIOLOOY OF THE HUMAN MIND. ^Second Edition,
revised. Crown 8vo. cloth, 4b.

CARTWRIGHT (Peter, The Backwoods Preachkr), AUTO-

BIOi-IlAPHY OF. Edited by W. P. Stbicilamd. Post 8vo. cloth, 2s.

CHRISTIE'S CONSTRUCTIVE ETYMOLOGICAL SPELLING-
BOOK. New Edition, 12mo. cloth. Is. 6d.

CONSTRUCTIVE ARITHMETIC. A new Method

of Teaching, with Eight Thousand Examples. 12mo. cloth, 4s. 6d.

ANSWERS TO THE EXAMPLES in the CON-

STBUCTIVE ARITHMETIC. 12mo. cloth. Is. 6d.

CLARKE (Hyde, d.c.l.) ENGLISH DICTIONARY, containing
more than 700,000 Words. l2mo. cloth boards, 4s. ed.

COLA (P. R.) MILLS AND FACTORIES for Ginning, Spin-
ning, and Weaving Cotton ; Jute, Sillc, Sugar, Paper, Oil Manufactures,
&c. bvo. cloth, 2l9.

PUBLISHED BY VIRTUE AND CO.

COPLAND (Samuel, The " Old Norfolk Farmer," of the
Mirk Lank txPHK88),—A0RICULTUKG, ANCIENT AND MODERN:
a IlUtnrical Aocount of its Principles and Practice, exem|>lified In their
KiHe, Progresi, and Development. WItli 45 Steel Engravings and name-
rous Woodcut Illustrations. 3 Vols, royal itvo. cloth, £3 Si.

COUNTY COURT. A Plain Guide for Suitors in the County
Court. By a Uarrhter. Small orown xvo. cloth, 2*. 6d.

D ALTON'S (Wm.) ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS OF

ABYSSINIA; or, the Tiger Prince. With 8 Illustrations. Post 8vo.
oloth, 3s. «d.

DENISON (E. B., ll.d., q.c, f.r.a.s., &c.) CLOCKS AND
WATCHES AND BELLS. Fifth Edition, revised. 12mo. limp cluth,
3s. 6d.

DICKSEE'S (J. R.) SCHOOL PERSPECTIVE. A Progressive

Course of Instruction in Linear Persi)ectlve. 8vo. cloth, 68.

DRESSER'S (C.) RUDIMENTS OF BOTANY, Structural and
Physiological. Being an Introduction to the Study of the Vegetable
Kingdom. With numerous Engravings. 8v>>. cloth, IBs.

DRESSER'S (C.) UNITY IN VARIETY, hs Deduced from the
Vegetable Kingdom. Illustrated. 8vo. cloth, lUs. 6d.

DUPANLOUP (MoR., Bp. of Orleans) STUDIOUS WOMEN.
Translated by R. M. Philuhokb. Cruwn ttvo. cloth, 48.

EGGS AND POULTRY, as a Source of Wealth. Illustrated.
Foap., Is.

Uniform with the above.

TURKEYS, GEESE, AND DUCKS, both for Pleasure

and Profit. By tlie Author of" Eggs and Poultry." Illustrated. Fcap., Is.

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CATTLE AND THE
DAIRY. By Tuohpsi n Townskhd. Illustrated. Is.

PROFITABLE PIGS. How to Breed, Feed, and Make them
Pay. Illustrated. Is.

FAIRHOLT'S (F. W.) DICTIONARY 01 TERMS IN ART.

Numerous Woodcuts. Post 8vo. cloth, lOs. 6d.

FIELD (George) THE RUDIMENTS OF COLOURS AND
COLOURiNO. Revised and in part re-writteu by Roseht Millbt, A M.,
F.A.S.,&o. With Illustrations. Post tivo.

FLEETWOOD'S (Rev. J., d.d.) LIFE OF CHRIST. With an

Essay by Rev. H. Stkbbinu. To which are added Bishop Hall's Meditation
on tiie Love of Christ, and Bishop Jeremy Taylor's Qoiden Grove and
Worthy Communicant. With Stt Steel Engravings. 4lo. oloth, with gilt
edges, £1 98.

FLETCHER'S (Rev. Alexander, d.d.) GUIDE TO FAMILY
DEVOTION. Portrait, and '^4 Engravings. 4to. cloth, gilt edges, £1 6s.

NEW EDITION, with Portrait

'and 2S Plates. Royal 4to. cloth, gilt edges, £1 Ss.

CLOSET DEVOTIONAL EXERC'SES FOR

THE YOU NO, from Ten Years Old and upward?. Post 8vo. cloth, 6s.

SCRIPTURE HISTORY. For the Improvement

of Youth. With 241 Engravings on Steel. 3 Vols. 16mo. oloth gilt, ISs.

SCRIPTURE NATURAL HISTORY. 256 En-
gravings on Steel. 3 Vols., 16mo. cloth, 30*.

ASSEMBLY'S CATECHISM. Divided into 52

Lessons. 12mo. sewed, 8d.

FRANKLIN (John) ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE BALLAD

OF hT. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON. Small 4to. cioth. gilt edges.

CATALOGUE OF WORKS

FRASER (Rev. R. W., m.a ) THE SEASIDE NATURALIST:

Out-door Stutlie* In Murine Zoolo);y and Hntany, and Maritime Oeulugy.
With 37 Illustrationa. Small cnrin Mvo., eitra olcitli, 38. 6d.

FRIENDLY HANDS AND KINDLY WORDS. Stories illus-
trative oftlie Law of Kludiieis, the I'ower of Perseverance, and the Advan-
tagei of Little Helpi. Small crown hvo., cloth extra, 3i. 6d..

GEMS OF EUROPEAN ART. Edited by Mrs. S. C. Hall.
80 Steel EiiKravlnga nf the hest Pictures of the best Schools. 3 Vols, folio
cloth gilt, and kH' edtces, £5.

GIBBON'S DECLINE AND FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE.

with Memoir, and Additional Notes, from the French of M. OuizoT.
With 5 ^iiigravlngs and Maps. 2 Vols, super-royal 8vo. cloth, XI Its.

GILES'S ENGLISH PARSING. Improved Edition. 12mo.
cloth, as.

GRAHAM (Walter) THE BRASS FOUNDER'S MANUAL.
12mo. limp oioth, 'it, 6d.

GRANT (James, Author of " The Romance of War," &c.) THE
SBt'RUT DESPATCH ; or. The Adventures of CapUin Ualgonle. Post
hvo. cloth.

GRANTHAM (John, c.e.) IRON SHIP-BUILDING. New

Edition, with imp irtant Additions. 12mo. limp cloth, 4s.

ATLAS of 40 Plates, to Illustrate the preceding.

FdIIo clolii, 38S.

HACK'S (Maria) WINTER EVENINGS ; or, Tales of TravellerB.
With 8 Iliustrationa by Gilbkkt and HAhvar. New Edition. Fcap. cloth,
3s. 6d.

(Maria) GRECIAN STORIES. With Illustrations.

New Edition. Foap. oi< th, 3<. 6d.

Smaller Edition, with Illustrations by J. Gil-
dirt. Feap. cloth, 2s. 6d.

HALL'S (Mr. and Mrs. S. C.) IRELAND ; its Scenery, Cha-
racter, Ac. 48 Steel Plates and fiOO Woodcuts. 3 Vols, royal 8vo. ul., £3 3s.

WEEK AT KILLARNEY. With Descriptions of tie

Routes thither from Dublin, Cork, Ac. Illu>'trated with Steel Plates and
Woodonts. New Edition. Small 4to. cloth, 8s.

BOOK OF THE THAMES, FKOM ITS RISE TO

ITS fall. With UPhotofrraphto I llustraiioiis and 140 Wood Engravings.
Fcap. 4to., elegantly bound in cloth extra, with glit edges, 21s.

HAMILTON (W. D.) HISTORY OF ENGLAND. 12mo. cloth,
red edges, Si.

HARRIS (Sir W. Snow, f.r.8.) A TREATISE ON FRIC-
TION al ELECTRICITY, in Theory and Practice. Edited, with Memoir,
by Charles Tomlirson, F.R.''. 8vo. cloth, 14s.

ELECTRICITY, MAGNETISM, AND GALVANISM :

their General Principles and Uses, and the Purposes to which they have
been Applied. With Illustrations. 12mo. cloth, 7s. 6d.

HENRY'S (Matthew) COMMENTARY ON THE HOLY
BIBLE. Abridged by the Rev. E. Blomfiklo. With S2 Steel Engravings.
2 Vols, royal 4to. cloth, gilt edges, £2 16s.

HERODOTUS. With English Notes by T. H. L. Leart, D.C.L.

2 V>>ls. 12mo. vellum cloth, 8!.

HEROINES OF THE HOUSEHOLD. By the Author of " The
Heavenward Path," dCc. With 38 Illui>trations. Small crown 8vo. cloth,
3s. fid

HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
With a continuation by Cbarlbs Mackat, l!i»q., LL.U lIluHtrated with
Steel Engravings and Coloured Maps. 2 Vola. imperial 8vo. cloth, £2 6s.

PUBLISHED BY VIHTTTK AND CO.

HOMERI OPERA. The ILIAD and ODYSSEY. With English
Notes by T. 11. 1... Li«Kr, U.V.L. * Vols. fimo. vellum eioUi, I6i.

HOOPER'S (Mrs.) RECOLLECTIONS OF MRS. ANDER-
HON'S SCHOOL. A Uook for Ulrli. New Edition, with 4 IllustraUou.
Fcap. olutii, 3t. 6d.

HORATII OPERA OMNIA. With English Notes by W.
Bh< wNKioo Bmitb, M.A. 12mu. Tellum oluth, 3i. 6d.

HUME AND SMOLLETTS HISTORY OF ENGLAND.
v\ Ith a Continuation to tlie Year 1869, by E. Fi*R and Or. E. H. Nolan.
in9 Plates and Maps, engraved on Steel. 3 Vols, imperial 8to., cloth
gilt, £3 3s.

INGRAIIAM (Rkv. J. H., ll.d.),-THE PILLAR OF FIRE ;

or, Israel in Bondage. With 8 lUostrations. Foap. 8vo. oloth, 6s.

THE THRONE OF DAVID, from the Conse-
cration of the Shepherd of Bethlehem to the RelMlilon of Prlnoe Alualom.
W ith 8 Illustrations. Ffiap. 8vo. oloth, 6s.

THE PRINCE OF THE HOUSE OF DAVID ;

or. Three Yean in the Holy City. With 8 Illustrations. New Edition.
Fmp. 8to. cloth, 3s. 6d.

JOSEPHUS (Thb Works of). With Essay by Rev. H. Stebbino.
92 Woodcuts, and 46 Steel Engravings. Boyal 8vo. oloth gilt, £1 &s.

JUVENAL'S SATIRES. The Latin Text, with English Notes,
Critical and Explanatory, and Prolegomena, containing a Survey of
Roman Satire and Satirists. By Tbomas Hat S. E>tooTT, M.A., of Queen's
College, Oxford. 12mo. oloth.

KINGSTON'S (W. H. G.) FOXHOLME HALL, and other
Amusing Tale* for Boys. With Illustrations. Foap. oloth, 3s. 6d.

THE PIRATE'S TREASURE, and other Amusing

Tales for Boys. With Illustrations. Foap. oloth, 3s. «d.

HARRY SKIPWITH,

Illustrations. Fcap. oloth, 3s. ed.

A Tale for Boys. With

KNOLLY'S (Cattazh W.) RUDIMENTS OF FIELD FORTI-
FICATION, for the use of Military Colleges, the Army, and Volunteers.
12mo. oluth.

LAURIE (James),— TABLES OF SIMPLE INTEREST FOR
EVERY DAY IN THE YEAR, at 6, 4i, 4, 3^ 3, and 2\ per cent, per
annum, f^om 11 to £20.n(iO, from one day to 3)16 day«, A(s. Thirtieth
Edition, 8vo. oloth, strongly bound, £1 Is. ; or In calf, £l 6s.

TABLES OF SIMPLE INTEREST, at 6, 6, 7, 8, 9,

and I per cent, per annum, from 1 day to 100 days. Eighth Fditlon, 8vo.

EXCHANGE TABLES, showing

oloth, 7s.

UNIVERSAL

the value of the coins of every country Interchanged with each other, at
all rate« of exchange, from One Coin to One Million Coins. 8vo. oloth, £1.

TABLES OF EXCHANGE between Paris, Bordeaux,

Marseilles, Havre, hy ns. Brussels, Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, Genoa, and
London. 8vo. bound In ralf, i.1.

MADEIRA EXCHANGE TABLES. Being Portu-
guese and British Money reduced into each other. 8vo. oloth, 6s.

MANUAL OF FOREIGN EXCHANGES. Being

British Coins reduced into the Momya of Twenty-eight of the Principal
Countries of the World, fcc; also from One to One Million Coins ot these
countries in decimals of the pound, with French and Turkish exchanges.
Fifth Edition, 32mo. 9d.

CATALOGUE OF W0BK8

LAURIE'S EXPOSITOR OF FOREIGN EXCHANGES. Bein,

nritiih Colin reduced Into Twenty-four of the Principal C'mtitrlei of the
World; In parallel columni, Ac. Ac. On aiiheet royal, folded In a hook, 38.

BRITISH AND FOREIGN SHARE TABLES, from

ti. 3d. to £100 iier ihare, In nrltUh and Decimal Moneys, Ac. I2mo. cl.. IS*.

GOLDEN READY RECKONER, calculated in British

Money and Dollar*, ahowing the value from Une Ounce to One Hundred
Thou!<and Ounces Gold, Platina, Silver, Ooods and Morcharidlse of every
description. Shares In Public Companies, &o. Ac. I2mo. cloth, 12s.

DECIMAL COINAGE. A Practical Analysis of the

Comparative Merits of £1 and lOd. as the Ruling Integer of a Decimal
Currency for tb j United Kingdom. 8vo sewed, 2r . 6d.

LE PAGE'S FRENCH COURSE.

** The sale of many thousands, and the almost universal adoption of these clever
tittle book* by M, Lk Paok, sufiiolently prove the public approbation of his plan of
teaching French, which Is In accordance with the natural operation of a child
learning its native language."

FRENCH SCHOOL. Part I. L'ECHO DE PARIS. A

Selection of FamiliaL' Phrases which a person would hear daily If living
In France. Thirty-seventh Edition. 12(iio. cloth, 3*. 6d.

N.B.— A Key to the above, being Finishing Exercises In French Con-
versation. Third Edition. Isnio., Is,

THE GIFT OF FLUENCY

Nineteenth Edition. I'imo. cloth,

FRENCH SCHOOL. Part II.
IN FRENCH CONVEU8ATION.
2s. 6d.

N.B.— A Key to the above ; " Petit Causeur ; or. First Chattering* in
French." NioUi Edition. 12mo., Is. 6d.

FRENCH SCHOOL. Part th. THE LAST STEP TO
FKENCH. With the Ver!>l6catlon. Eighth Edition. I2mo. cloth, 2s. tid.

PETIT LECTEUR DES COLLEGES; or, the French
Reader for Beginn.^rs and Elder Classes. A Sequel to " L'Echo de Paris."
12mo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

FRENCH MASTi;U FOR BEGINNERS; or, Easy Lessons
in French. Sixth Edition. l2mo. cloth, 2s. 6d.

JUVENILE TREASURY OF FRENCH CONVERSATION.

With the English before the Frer.ch. 12mo. cloth, 3s.

READY GUIDE TO FRENCH COMPOSITION. French

Qranimar by Example^i, gi< log Models as l.eadlng-slrlngs throughout
Accidence and Syntax, lliird Edition. 12m'>. cloth, 39. ttd.

ETRENNES AUX DAMES ANGLAISES. A Key to
French Pronunciation in all its niceties. Sewed, price 6d.

LLOYD (Mus. W. R.) THE FLOWER OF CHRISTIAN
CHIVALRY. W Ith 34 Illustrations by J. D. Watbos and others, small
crown 8vo. cloth, 3s. 6d.

LOSSING (Benson J.) THE HUDSON, FROM THE WIL-
DERNESS TO THE SEA. Illustrated by 304 Engravings on Wood.
Small 4to. clotb, gilt edges, 21s.

M'HENRT'S SPANISH COURSE.

AN ENTIRELY NEW AND IMPROVED GRAMMAR.
Designed for every class of learners Containing iho Elements of the
Language and the Rules of Etymology and Syntax Ezempli6ed ; with
NoTKB and Apfrnoix, consisting oi Dialogues, 8. Ice: Poetry, Commercial
Corresixjmlence, Ac. New Edition, revised atd jorn.'C'ed by Al>rbd
Elweb. 12mo. bound, 6s.

t'a ' jij.'niia

PUBLIS0ED BT VIBTUE AND CO. 38

m'henry's SPANISH coVRS^— Continued,

EXERCISES ON THE ETYMOLOGY, SYNTAX, IDIOMS,

&c., (>r the HFANISil ;^AN(ilIAOB. New Edition, revlaed and our-
reotcd by AtrsKU Llwks. I2m<i. bound, 3«.

KEY TO THE EXERCISES. New Edition, revised and
corrected by Ai.rBCD Elwks. I'iiuo, bound, 4s.

SYNONYMES OF THE SPANISH LANGJAGE EX-
FLAINUO. lamo. 4a. ; and 8vo. 6j.

MACKAY'S (Charles) STUDIES FROM THE ANTIQUE,
tiKETCIIEa FKOM NATURE, and otlier I'oems. tivo-juil Edmon, fosp.
cloth, 3i. ed.

MANN (Dr. R. J.) THE EMIGRANT'S GUIDE TO Na t>;.T*
l2mo. limp cloth, ui.

MANUAL OF HERALDRY, being a concise Description of the
levernl Terms used, and containing a Dictionary ol' every Deniguatlon In
the Science. Illustiatad by 400 Engrav<,n|$i on Wood. 8eventh Edition,
feap. cloth, 3s.

METEYARD'S(Eliza)THE DOCTOR'S LITTLE DAUGHTER,

The Story of a Child's Life amidst the Woods and illlls. With nume*
rons Illustrations by IIabvkt. Fcap. cloth, ft\K niK*", &!>•

MURRAY (Robeht) MARINE ENGINES AND STEAM

VI':s.-'ELi8. Mew Edition, with numerous Aildltluns by E. Ncoent, C.E.
12mo. limp cloth., 3s.

NATIONAL GALLERY. Comprising about 154 Engravings
from ihe " Vernon Collection." With 60 Illustrations of the b«st Works of
Ur.dern Sculptors. Edited by S. C. Hiu.. 3 Vols, royal 4t<j. cloth, gilt
edges, £8 fs.

NICHOLSON'S (Petek) CARPENTER'S GUIDE ; being a Com-

plete Booli of Lines for Ci.rpentert>, Joiners, Cabinet-Maliers, and Workmen
in (general. Improved Edition. Edited by JouM Hat. With more than
I'^O Illustrations. 4to. cloth, £1 lis. 6d.

PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MENSURA-
TION, for the Use of Surveyor?, Carpeniers, Builders, and Artificers in
Qeneial. A sequel to the " Carpenter's Guide." Witti 22 Plates. 4to.
cloth, 188.

NOLAN'S (E.H.,ph.d., ll.d.) HISTORY OF THE BRITISH

EMPIRE IN INDIA AND TiiE EAST, from the Ealiest Tinios to ths
Suppression of the Sepoy MuMny in imS9. With tiumeroui Sietl Engra-
vings aiid Maps. 2 Vols, royal tsvo. clolti, £2 Ss.

HISTORY OF THE WAR AGAINST RUSSIA.

With numerous Steel Engravings and Maps. 2 Vols, royal 8vo. cl., £2 6s.

THE LIBERATORS OF ITALY ; or, the Lives of

Qeneral G >ribaldl, Victor Emanuel, King of Italy, Coun' Cavour, and
Napoleon III. Illustrated with 26 Eug. tvings on Steel. 4to. cloth, gilt
edges, £1 10s.

NUGEN'r (E., C.E.) OPTICS ; or, Sight and Li(,'ht Theoretically
and Practically Treaten. Numerous Woodcuts. Post tivo. cloth, &3.

NURSERY RHYJIES. By the Authors of " Original Poems."
iOth Thousand. 18mo. cloth, Is. 6d.

ORACLES FROM THE BRITISH POETS. A Pleasant
Companii^n for a Round Party. By James SuiTri. Fourth Edition, fcap.
cloth, gilt edges, price 2s. 6d. ; or in antique, morocco gilt, 6s.

ORIGINAL POEMS FOR INFANT MINDS. By the Authors
of " Rhymes for the Nursery." Illustrated by H. AHKLitT, and engraved
by J. and G. Nioiiot-Ls. Fcap. cloth gilt, 6s.

. I

CATALOOtTR OP W0BK8

ORIGINAL POEMS

cloth. Is. 6cl. each.

FOR INFANT MINDS. 2 Vols., ISmo.

OSBORN (Rev. H. S., m.a.) THE H' LY LAND, PAST AND
PKE3ENT. Sketches of Travel In Palestine. With 60 Illustration* on
Wood and Steel. Small crown 8to., extra cloth, 38. 6d.

By the Author of "OTIR HEAVENLY HOME."

1. COMFORTER (Thic) ; or, the Holy Spirit in His Glorious
Person and Qraclous Work. Fo&p. cloth, Ss.; gilt edges, 58. 6d.

2. DYING COMMAND OF CHRIST; or, the Duty of
Believers to Ce'ebrato Weekly the Lord'^ Supper. Fcap. cloth, as. 6d.

3. GRACE AND GLORY; cr, the Believer's Bliss in Both
Worlds. Fcap. cloth, 6s., (,'ilt edges, 6a. 6d.

4. GOD IS LOVE; or, Glimpses of the Fathers Infinite Affec-
tion for His People. Seventh Edition. Fcap. cloth, Es.

6. GOD'S UNSPEAKABLE GIFT; or. Views ot the Person

and Work of Jesus Christ. Fcap. cloth, Ss.; gilt edges, 6s. 6d.

6. GLEAMS OF GLORY FROM THE CELESTIAL
WORLD. 32mo. cloth. Is.

7. OUR HEAVENLY HOME ; or, GUmpses of the Glory
and Bliss nf the Better World. Seventh Edition. Fcap. cloth, 6s.

8. SOURCES OF JOY IN SEASONS OF SORROW.
32mo. cloth. Is.

9. STEPS AND STAGES ON THE ROAD TO GLORY.

Second Edition. Fcap. cloth, 6s.

10. THE GLORIOUS GOSPEL OF CHRIST; considered in
Its Relations to the Present Life. Fcap. cloth, 5s, ; gilt edges, 5s. 6d.

11. THE FOES OF OUR FAITH, AND HOW TO DEFEAT
THEM. Fcap. cloth, Ss. ; gilt edges, 68. 6d.

12. TRUTHS FOR THE DAY OF LIFE AND THE HOUR
OF DEATH. Third Edition. Fcap. cloth, 8s.

18. THE END OF ALL THINGS; or, the Coming an! King-
dom of Christ. First Series. Fcap. cloth, 5s.

14. THE END OF ALL THINGS. Second Series. Fcap.
clo'h, 5s.

PATTIE DURANT : a Tale of 1662. By Cycla, Author of
" Passing Clouds," &o. Fcap. cloth, 2s. 6d.

PAUL GOSSLETT'S CONFESSIONS IN LOVE, LAW, AND
THE CIVIL SERVICB;. Illustrated by Marcos btonk. Post 8vo. cloth,
V«. 6d.

PAYNE'S (Joseph) SELECT POETRY FOR CHILDREN ;

with brief Explanatory Nuius, arranged for the use of Schools and Families.
Fourteenth Edition. ISmo. cloth, 2s. 6d.

STUDIES IN ENGLISH POETRY; with short

Biographical bketches, a .d Notes Explanatory and Critic ... intended as a
Text-Book for the higher Classes In Schools. Fifth Edition, enlarged.
Piist 8vo. cloth, red edges, 68.

STUi>:ES IN ENGLISH PROSE. Specimens of the

Language in Its various stages, with Notes Explanatory and Critical.
Together with a Sketch of the History of the English Language, and a
concise Anglo-Saxon Grammar. Post 8vo. cloth, red edges es.

PEOPLE'S MUSIC BOOK, with Accompaniment for Organ and
Pianoforte. By E. Tatlor and J. Tdblr ? Vols., roy&l 8vo. cloth, 36s. ;
or siiparately, as Psalm Tunea, Secular PIuslo,and Sacred Music, Va. each.

PUHLISHED BY VIUTVE AND CO.

™^.a?'^.H(J--,g--^).-HI^ OF ENGLAND

«vo. cloth, l«8. "■•^'^^ Ob GEOIUJK THE TIUKD. Vol. |.

PICTORIAL SPELLING ROOT?- .

O..Jeo,.. With ,30 lil^sTrations N^; Kdft'ion T"" ?" ^^"^^^ «°d
PICTlJIiFS nv 'Pirn «T^ oe* hdition. I2mo. cloth. Is. Bd.

'^7A'SlH?^pSi?.«^e?h;^3AS^^ IN THE NATIONAL

trated with E-ghtEngrar/,. Fclp'oToX'' """"' '' ^""^•" '""■
^^"^SuZS^y 5eT^. S^ ^^^I« ^ -. Three Years in

™Ety r^' ' "- *.« ^^^< ^-cl. and .„Ue the. Pa,.
™Stit^S,.,t Novel. B,GKOKOEGnAVKs,M.A. 2 Vols

""^""i^i^nit^iiH.™^ KUDIMENTS OF MINERALOGY.
""""^S'oio^h^S. e?^^ N^^«S^«^- I""-ated by G.BKn.
""'"^^E^i^Aufe^RfttlSS OF HYMNS FROM THE

Append., to D;."tt»i'''r .rytr,^ "n^^Toi;?;.:,'"""'''' ^ -

ROBINSON CRUSOE. With IHu. Jons^rStee..- ^;„o
^"^S?^truSi.Stti. ^^^IVATIVE SPELLING.

VERSATION: consisting .f M P^^P^ TO FRENCH CON-
3iOWP"<S /r> r. * , ' "' ""''^ *o»«- l*mo. bound, 2s. ed.
^"%^%JC.G Author of MVhat Put my Pipe out") GOINP

?«nteel bringing up brought 'him to? Fcap^'boards"2,''"'i>:t'r\ '"-^'"y
ROYAL GEMS FROM THE GALIf" V n^tU^ '

90 large steel Engravings of plo. ^es of !h» .^., ^^ EUROPE;

^'''^j;^Kurov?6teSo\SA^2sr^^^^^^ ^^^ ^uf.

With Introduction by the vtry K^v p r V.ny^'^" JESUSCIUUST.
with 60 Steel Engravings! 4t^f oiot^h.^giu'edgerfTHf' ''•"• '""''"""'

'^^'ISlJ^fuS.'--;) cS^.s^^d^^'™^ TELEGRAPH.

CATALOGUE OF W0KK8

SAINT PATJLS. A Monthly Matrazine of Fiction, Art, Litera-
ture, and Pnlltlos. EJited by Awtuhnt Troliopb and Illuitrated by
J. E. Mil LAi.», K.A. Vols. I. and 11., 8vo. oloth, 7i. dd. eaoh.

Monthly Tarts, price Is. each.

(^aaes for Ijiiiding Half-yearly Volumes, Is. 6d, each.

Reading Covers for Monthly Parts, Is. 6d. eaoh,

SANDFORD AND MERTON. With Illustrations. 18mo.

cloth, 2s.

SAYER'S (Thos. A.) AIDS TO MEMORY, A Practical System
ot Mnemoiilos. 12mo., Is.

SCOTLAND (Thb Pictorial Histoky op). Edited by the Rev.
J. T«vLOR, D.n. Illustrated with 79 Engravings on Steel, from Drawings
by W. H. Bartlrtt, and other Artists, -l Vols., Imperial 8vo., £2 6s.

SCULPTURE GALLERY: a Series of 80 Steel Engravings.
With Uesoriptions by James Daffornk, T. K. Hkbvkt,&o. Fullo, oloth
gilt, £3 3s.

SHAKSPERE (The Pictorial).. Edited by Charles Knight,
and illustrated throuehiiut. New and carefully Reviiied Elitiun. 8 Vols.,
imperial "vo. cloth, £i 4a,

SHAKSPERE'S COMPLETE WORKS. With Notes and
Intriductlon by H. Stkbbinq, and Inquiry into the Authenticity of the
Shaicspere Portraits. With 61 Steel Engravings. Royal 8vo. cloth, 258.

SHELMERDINE'S (W.) SELECTION OF ^^'TE PSALMS and
oth>'r Portions of Scripture, arranged and mnr)i< Chanting. Foap.

cloth, Is.

ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY CHANTS,

Ancient and Modern. Selected from the most famous composers, arranged
for Four Voices, with Organ and Pia'. jfurte Aooompaniment. Crown 8to.
cloth, 2a. 6(1.

SHOWELL'S HOUSEKEEPER'S ACCOUNT BOOK. 4to.,

Interleaved with blotting paper, 2s.

By FRAN£ E. SMEDLET.

GATHERED LEAVES. A Collection of the Poetical Writings
of the late Frank E. Smbolit, Author of " Franii Falrlegh." With a
Memorial Preface by Gomund Yatks. Portrait, and numerous humorous
designs, Printed on superior paper, with Borders. Imperial l6mo.
Imitation half- morocco, gilt edges, 8s. 6d.

FRANK FAIRLEGH ; or, Scenes from the Life of a Private

PupU. ('row:i Hvo. hoards, 2s. 6d. ; cloth, Hs. *>d. : or with 30 Illustrations
by Gkokok C'KuiKBniNK, 8vo. cloth, 10s. 6d.

HARRY COVERDALE'S COURTSHIP, and What Came

<f it. Crown 8vo. buards, 2s. 6d.; cloth, 3s. 6d. ; or, with ; > trxt'ons
by H. K. Browmr, 8vo. cloth, 10s, 6d.

LEWIS ARUNDEL ; or, the Railroad of Life. , vo.

boards, 3s. ; cloth. 4s. ; or with Illustrationi by H. K. ~Ik.- ' 'a;"),
8ro. oloth, 128. 6d.

THE FORTUNES OF THE COLVILLE FAMILY, Uh

8I5VEN TALKS BY SKVEN AUTHOK8 (F. E. SjiKni.ET, G. P. A.
Jami<a, MIhs Pahdop, M. F. TrppKH, Mrs. S, C. Hall, Miss M. B. 8mi'DLIT.
Bid MUs Bdhbory). Edited by the Author of >* Franic Falrlegh.
Crown Hvo. bard^, 2s. 6d. ; or with Frontispiece and Vignette Title by
Pniz, oloth, 3s. 6d.

SMITH (David) TALES OF CHIVALRY AND ROMANCE.

With many Illustrations. Fcap, 8to. oloth, 3s. 6d.

SMYTH'S (Warinqton W., m.a., p.r.8.) TREATISE ON COAL
and COAL-MININU. Illustrated, .''ost Hvo. cloth, 7b. «d.

PUBLISHED BY VIBTUE AND CO. 37

^^^?/^S^?'S(R«v.C.H.) THE SAINT AND HIS SAVIOUfi •

^^"^LiS?'"^ (HowAKD) THE GREAT SCHOOLS OF ENO

T^^.^ (Mrs.) THE WAVE AND THE BATTLE FFPrn

Illustrations. SmaU crowusyJ!' cloth ^ M I'^ughtw." With 21

12. CHRONOLOGY. Chronology of Civil and Ecclesiastical
Hl.lory, Art«. Literature. *o., from the F rlle,t Per?^. Price ?sJd

13. STUDIES IN ENGLISH POETRY WiH. nin„r..K- 'i
Sketches a„d Notes. By Joskph flr.Z Prle 6s ^^'Og^Pll^^al

14. STUDIES IN ENGLISH PROSE. Specimens of the

CATAL06T7B OF WOBKS

18.

19.

students' series of handbooks — continued.

17. A TECHNICAL DICTIONARY OF TERMS used in
ArchiteotHre, Buildiug, and Engineering, Mioing, Fine Art, *o. Price Ss.

STUDIES IN FRENCH PROSE, Specimens of the Lan-
guage from the SeventernMi Century to the Present Time. Wltli Cliro-
nological and Critical Notices, Explanatory Notes, fto. Price 3s. 6d.

STUDIES IN FRENCH POETRY. Specimens of ihe
Language from the Seventeenth Century to the Present Time. A\'lth
Chronological and Critical Notices, Explanatory Notes, &o. Price 3s. 6d.

SWAIN'S (Charles, Author of "English Melodies," &c.) ART
AND FASHION ; with other Songs, and Poems. Pobt Svo. cloth, 78. 6d.

TATE'S (W., Author of " The Modern Cambist ") ELEMENTS
OF COMMHIRCIAL ARITHMETIC. New Edition. 12mo. cloth. 2s. 6d.
N.B. -A Key to the above, price 3s. 6d.

TAYLOR'S (James) PICTORIAL HISTORY OF SCOTLAND,

from the Roman Invasion to the Close of the Jacobite Rebellion, a.d. 79—
1746. By Jahrs Tatlor. D.D., assisted by Professors LiNDstrand E^D r,
Dr. John Ander8(i:«, c). Maodon&ld, &o. With bO Engravings on Steel.
a Vols, royal Svo. cloth, £% 6s.

TERENTII COMOSDI^. With English Notes by Rev. James
Uavies, M a. 12mo, cloth.

TOMLINSON'S (Chas.,p.r.s., Lecturer at King's College) CYCLO-
VMOiA OF USEFUL ARTS, Mechanical and Chemical, Manufactures,
Mining, and Engineering. Illustrated by more than 3,00U Engravings on
Steel and Wood. New Edition. 3 Vols Royal Svo. cloth, £3 If s.

N.B.— The Third Volume of this Work, forming an Appendix to previous
Editions, is sold separately, price 21s.

TRAILL'S (Mps.) CANADIAN CRUSOES; a Tale of the Rice
Lake Plains. Edited by Agnrs Strickland. With numerous Illustrations
by Habvbt. Fcap. cloth, Ss. 6d.

TREDGOLD ON THE STEAM ENGINE. In Tv?o Sections :
1. Marini Enoineb. 2. Locomotive and Stationabt Enoinks. 1000 pages
of Text, and upwards of 220 Engravings. Also 160 Woodcuts and Diagrams.
3 Vols, royal 4to. cloth, £4 14s. 6d.

TROLLOPE (Anthony) HE KNEW HE WAS RIGHT.

Illustrated by Marcds Stone. Now publishing in Weelil/ Parts, price
6d. each.

PHINEAS FINN. Illustrated bv J. E. Millais,

R.A. Now Publishing In " St. Pauls."

TRUE OF HEART. By Kay Spen. Crown Svo. cloth, 5s.

GEESE, AND DUCKS, both for Pleasure and
■ Eggs and Poultry." Fcap., Is.

TYTLER'S (M. Fraser) TALES OF MANY LANDS. With
Eight Illustrations by Anelat. New Editiuo. Fcap. cloth, 3s. 6d.

VERNON GALLERY OF BRITISH ART. Edited by S. C.
Hall, Esq., F.S.A. Comprising 162 Bngravingi of the choicest Pictures
in the Collection of Robert Vernon, E^q. 4 Vols, folio, cloth extra, with

TURKEYS,

Profit. By the Author of '

gilt edges, £8 Ss.
VIRGILII OPERA OMNIA.
TON, M.A., and Henrt Youno.

With English Notes by W. Rush-
12mo. vellum cloth, 48. 6d.

VIRTUE'S ILLUSTRATED WORKS-Demy 4to. cloth gUt

and gilt edges.

AMERICAN LAND, LAKE, AND RIVER SCENERY.
120 Steel Engravings, after Sketches by W. H. Bartlett. With De-
scriptions by N. P. WiLLW, Author of "Penoiillngs by the Way."
3 Vols., £1 15s.

PXTBLISHED BY VIBTUE AND CO.

riRTDu's ILLUSTRATED wonKa— Continued,

THE BOSPHORUS AND THE DANUBE. The Bos-
PRnRtra by Hiss Pardob. The Dandbb by W. Bkattib, M.D. With
16s EntrraTings, from Orawlngsby W. H. BiKTLKTT. 3 Vols., £1 6s. each.

CALEDONIA ILLUSTRATED. 171 Steel Engravings,
from Drawings by W. H. Bastlbtt, T. Alloh, fto. With Descriptions
by Wii.uiM Beattib, M.D. 3 Vols., £2 10s,

CANADIAN SCENERY. 118 Steel Engravings, after
Drawings by W. H. Bartlbtt. With Descriptions by N. P. Willis,
Auchor of" PenoiUlngs by the Way." 3 Vols., £1 I6s.

IRELAND, ITS SCENERY AND ANTIQUITIES. 120
Engravings by W. H. Babtlbtt. With Descriptive Text by J. Stui-
UNO COTNB, N. P. WaLis, Ac. 2 Vols., £1 ISs.

PALESTINE (The Christian in) : Scenes of Sacred Histoiy,
Historical and Deaoriptive, by H. Stbbbino, D.D., F.R.S. 80 Engrav-
ings, from Drawings taken on the spot by W. II. Baktlbtt. £1 6s.

PIEDMONT AND ITALY, from the Alps to the Tiber.
With 138 Illustrations ..«r Designs by Dodlet Costbllo, Uahoino,
Pthb, BARTLR'rr, Brockedon, &o. 2 Vols., £2 2s.

PORTS, HARBOURS, WATERING PLACES, AND
COAST 8CENEKY OF GREAT BRITAIN. A Series of 12ft Steel
Engravings, from Drawings by Hardinq, Grkswick, Cookb, Barii,btt,
Ao. Edited by W. Beattib, M.D. 2 Vols., £2.

SCOTLAND. By W. Beattib, M.D. A Series of 120 Steel
Engravings, after Drawings by Allou, Bartlett, and M'Cdlloch.
2 Vols., £2.

SWITZERLAND, Illustrated in 108 Steel Engravings, after
Drawings by Bahtlbtt. Deicriptlons by W. Beattib, M.D. 2 Vols., £2.

VIETUE'S ILLUSTRATED JTTVENILE SERIES, fcap.
Bvo. extra cloth, price 3s. 6d. per volume.

1. WINTER EVENINGS ; or, Tales of Travellers. By
Mabia Hack. With Eight lllustraUons bv Gilbert and Harvbt.

2. FOXHOLME HALL: a L«»genu uf Christmas ; and other
Amusing Tales for Boys. By W. H. O. Kimqbtoh. Illustrated.

3. THE PIRATE'S TREASURE : a Legend of Panama ; and
other Tales for Buys. By W. H. G. Kinqston. Illustrated.

4. GRECIAN STORIES. By Maria Hack. New Edition.

5. TALES OF MANY LANDS. By M. Fkaseu TyiLEB.

6. THE CANADIAN CRUSOES : a Tale of the Rice Lake
Plains. By Mrs. Tbaili., Edited by Miss Strickland. Illustrated.

7. THE PERILS AND ADVENTURES OF HARRY

SKIPWITH. By W. H. G. KiKjaioN. Illustrated.

o. NOW OR NEVER ; or, the Trials and Perils of Frederick
Lonsdale. By Charles A. BstcH Author of ''Lost Lconore."

9. TALES OF CHIVALRY AND ROMANCE. By David

Smitb, Author of " Karl o<" the Luckct and his Throe Wishes."

WATTS' AND RIPPON'S HYMNS. Bound in One Volume,
32mo. roan, embossed, sprinkled edges, 38., gilt edges, 3s. 6d.

WEBB'S (Mrs. J. B.) NAOMI; or, the Lust Days of Jerusalem.
With view, &o. of Jerusallem, and nuinei-ous Illustrations liy Gilbert and
Bartlett. Nineteenth Ediliou. Fcap. cloth, Is. 6d.

WEDGWOODS (The) : being a Life of Josiau Wedgwood,
with Notices of his Works and their Productions, Memoirs of the Wedg*
wod and other Families, and a History of the Early Potteries of Htatford-
shire. By Llbwki.lynn Jewitt, F.S.A., &o. With a Portrait and numerous
illustratious. Printed on toned paper. 8vo. extra oloth, 18s.

CATALOaUE OF •VfOBKS

WHEELERS (J. Talbots, f.r.o.s.) HISTORICAL GEO-
ORAPHY OF THE ULU AND N£W TESTAMlilNTt). Second Edition.
Folio, cloth, 18. 6d.

ANALYSIS AND SUMMARY OF OLD TES-
TAMENT HI8TURY AND THE LAWS OF MOSES. Tencli Edition.
Puit 8V0. cloth, red edge*, 6$. 6d.

ANALYSIS AND SUMMARY OF NEW TES-
TAMENT HISTORY. Pott 8vo. cloth, red edges, Ss. 6d.

POPULAR ABRIDGMENT OF OLD AND

NEW TESTAMENT HISTORY. 3 Volt. 18mo. olotb, 2«. each.

WILKIE GALLERY. A Oolloclion of 67 Engravings from
the best Pioturet of the late Sir D^vm Wilcib, R.A., including his Sfamisb
and Ohikntal Skktobks, with Notices Biographical and Critical. Folio,
cinth, gilt edges, £3 10s.

WILLEMENT (E. E.),— FAMILIAR THINGS: their History,
fto. Thiid Edition. Foap. cloth, 3s. 6d.

WOODWARD'S (B. B.) THE HISTORY OF WALES, from
the Earliest Times to its Final Inourporatinn with England. Illustrated
with 76 Steel Plates, representing Views of Remariiable Places, Antiquities,
and Scenery. 2 Vols., super-royal 870. cloth gilt, £1 8s.

WOODWARD (S. P.) AND TATE (Ralph) A MANUAL OF
THE MOi'LUSCA. An Account of Recent and Fossil Shells. With
jumerous Illustrations, 13mo. cloth, with gilt top, 7s. 6d.

WORBOISE'S (E. J.) SIR JULIAN'S WIFE. A Talc. Fcap.
es, ; with gilt edges, 68. ed.

THE WIFE'S TRIALS. A Tale. Fourth Edition.

Fcap, cloth, 3s. 6d. ; with gilt edges, 4s.

THE LIFE OF THOMAS ARNOLD, D.D.

Second Edition. Fcap. cloth, 3s. 6d. ; with gilt edges, *».

CAMPION COURT. A Tale of the Days of the

E^Jeotment Two Hundred Years Ago. Fcap. cloth, &s. ; with gilt edges, 6s. 6d,

THE LILLINGSTONES OF LILLINGSTONe]

Foap. cloth, es. ; with gilt edges, 6s, 6d.

LOTTIE LONSDALE; or, the Chain and its

Links. Second Edition. Fcap. cloth, 68. ; with gilt edges, Ss. 6d.

EVELYN'S STORY ; or, Labour and Wait. Fcap.

cloth, 68. i with gilt edges, Ss. 6d,

WRIGHT'S (Thomas, Esq., m.a., f.s.a.) A HISTORY OF
CARICATURE AND GROTESQUE IN LITERATURE AND ART,
With Illustrations by F. W. Fairbolt, F.S.A. 4to. cloth, red edges. Sis.

DOMESTIC) MANNERS AND SENTIMENTS

IK ENGLAND DURING THE MIDDLE AGES. With numerous
Illustrations by F. W. Fairholt, F.S.A. Foap. 4to. doth, red edges, 21s,

XENOPHON'S ANABASIS. With English Notes by Henry
YoDNO. l2mo. vellum oiotb, 3s.

XENOPHON'S AGESILAUS. With English Notes by Ll. F. W.
Jbwitt. 12mo. limp olotli, Is. 6d.

YOUNG MAN'S COMPANION. A Compendium of Useful
Knowledge, Including Geography. Astronomy, History, Biography, Na-
tural Philosophy, Commercial Affairs, &o. By J. Mavoh, F.A.S. New
Edition, brought down to the Present Day. 9 Engravings. 8vo. cloth, 16s.

YOUNG WOMAN'S COMPANION; or, Female Instructor.
A Summary of Useful Knowledge, calculated to fonn tlie Intellectual, the
Moral, and the Domestic Character. Including Hlogra^'liies of Illustrious
Women, Hints on Education, Domestic Management, Receipts, dso.,Ac,
By MuB. Heman.s, 9 Engravings on Steel, Svo. cluth, 16s.

PEI2E MEDAL, INTEBKATIONAL EXHIBITION, 1862. wa.
awarded to MoMn. VIRTUE for the " pubUcation of
^sS'**^^ Weale'e Series."

See JURORS' REPORTS,

CLASS XXIX.

CATALOGUE

RUDIMENTARY, SCIENTIFIC, EDUCATIONAL AND
CLASSICAL WORKS,

FOR COLLEGES, HIGH AND ORDINARY SCHOOLS
AND SELF-INSTRUCTION; '"'^^''^^

MECHANICS' INSTITUTIONS, FREE LIBRARIES, &c. &c.,

PUBLISHED BY

VIRTUE & CO., 26, IVY LANE,

PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON.

••• THE ENTIRE SERIES IS FREELY ILLUSTRATED ON WOOD
AND STON E WHERE REQUISITE.

Mr wtf^yi'^Z^'-'V''^-^""^ in/annedthat the 7vhole'^tke late
Mb WE4LE 8 Pubbcatiom coniatned in the follmdng Catalogue
haoe been purchased by Virtue & Co., and that aU future
Orders w tU he supplied by them at 26, Ivy Lane. "^

*.» Additional Volttmeg. by Popular Anthora. are in Pre paration.
AGRICULTURE.

142. CATTLE, SHEEP, AND HORSES, by R Scott Bni-n o, RJ
145. MANAGEMENT OP THE DAIRY-TlGS-ioULTk^^^

by R Scott Burn. With Notes on the Diseases of Stock/b;

a Veterinary Surgeon. 2s. '

^^^- ^1^}H'^^^^ ^P TOWN SEWAGE-IRRIGATION-
£ S ™^ ^^ ^^^'^^ ^^^' by R. S^t B^~

No*. 140, 141, 142, 145, and 146 bound in 2 vols., cloth boarda. 148.

ARCHITECTURE AND BUILDING.

16. ARCHITECTURE. Orders of, by W. H. Leeds. \s.

„B Ti,.n..H -Styles of, by T.Talbot Bury. \s.Qd.

N.B. The Orders and Styles of Architecture in 1 vol., price 2s. 6d.

17.

SCIENTIFIC A.,D MECHANICAL WORKS.

18. ARCHITECTURE, Principles of Design, by E. L. Garbett 2».
N.B. Nos. 16, 17, and 18 in 1 vol. clotb boards, price 5s. 6d.

22, BUILDING, the Art of, by B. Dobson. Is. 6d.

23. BBICE AND TILE MAKING, by E. Dobson. With Additions

by C. Tomlinson and B. Mallet. Ss.

26. MASONBY AND STONE-CUTTING, by E. Dobson. New
Edition, with Appendix on the Preservation of Stone. 2». Gd.

30. DBAINAGE AND SEWAGE OP TOWNS AND BUILD-
INGS, by O. D. Dempsey. 2«.

36. BLASTING AND QUARBYING OF STONE, &c., by Field-
Marshal Sir J. F. Burgoyne. U. Qd.

86. DICTIONARY OF TECHNICAL TEBMS used by Architects,
Builders, Engineers, Surveyors, &c. 4a.

In cloth boards, 5t. ; bail morocco, 6«.

42. COTTAGE BUILDING, by C. B. Allen. 1».

44. FOUNDATIONS AND CONCRETE WORKS, by E. Dobson.
1<. 6d.

46. LIMES, CEMENTS, MORTARS, CONCRETE, MASTICS,
&o., by G. R. Burnell, C.E. 1«. Gd.

57. WARMING AND VENTILATION, by O.Tomlin«)n,F.R.S. 3».

83»*. DOOR LOCKS AND IRON SAFES, by C. Tomlinson,
F.R.S., and Robert Mallet, C.E., F.R.S. 2s. Gd.

111. ARCHES, PIERS, AND BUTTRESSES, by W.Bland. Is.Gd.

1 16. ACOUSTICS OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS, by T.R. Smith. 1«. Gd.

123. CARPENTRY AND JOINERY, founded on Robison and

Tredgold. Is. Gd.

123*. ILLUSTRATIVE PLATES to the preceding.

4to. 4s. Gd.

124. ROOFS FOR PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS,

founded on Robison, Price, and Tredgold. la. Gd.

1?4«. IRON ROOFSofKecentConstruction— Descriptive Plates. 4to.

127. ARCHITECTURAL MODELLING IN PAPER, Practical

Instructions, by T. A. Richardson, Architect. Is. Gd.

128. VITRUVIUS'S ARCHITECTURE, translated by J. Gwilt,

with Plates. 8s.

130. GRECIAN ARCHITECTURE, Principles of Beauty in, by
the Earl of Aberdeen. Is.

No8. 128 and 130 in 1 vol. cloth boards, price 78.

132. ERECTION OP DWELLING-HOUSES, with Specifications,
Quantities of Materials, &c., by S. H. Brooks, 27 Plates. 2s. Gd.

160. QUANTITIES AND MEASUREMENTS; How to Calculate
and Take them in Bricklayers', Masons', Plasterers', Plumbers',
Painters', Paper-hangers', Gilders', Smiths', Carpenters', and
Joiners' Work. With Rules for Abstracting, &fl. By A. 0.
Beaton. It.

SCIENTIFIC AND MECHANICAL WORKS.

ARITHMETIC AND MATHEMATICS.

32. MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENTS, THEIB CONSTEUC-
TION, USE, Ac., by J. P. Heather. 1». 6rf.

60. LAND AND ENGINEERING SURVEYING, by T.Baker. 2b.

61». READY RECKONER for the Admeaflurement and Valuation
of Land, by A. Arman. \s. Qd.

76. GEOMETRY, DESCRIPTIVE, with a Theory of Shadows and
Perspective, and a Description of the Principles and Practice
of Isometrical Projection, by J. P. Heather. 2t.

83. COMMERCIAL BOOK-KEEPING, by James Haddon. U.

84. ARITHMETIC, with numerous Examples, by J. R. Young. 1«. Qd.

84». KEY TO THE ABOVE, by J. R. Young. Is. 6d.

86. EQUATIONAL ARITHMETIC : including Tables for the
Calculation of Simple Interest, with Logarithms for Compound
Interest, and Annuities, by W. Hipsley. In Two Parts,
price Is. each.

86. ALGEBRA, by J. Haddon. &.

86*. KEY AND COMPANION TO THE ABOVE, by J.R. Young.
\s.6d.

88. THE ELEMENTS OP EUCLID, with Additional Propositions,
and Essay on Logic, by H. law. 2s.

90. ANALYTICAL GEOMETRY AND CONIC SECTIONS, by

J. Hann. Is.

91. PLANE TRIGONOMETRY, by J. Hann. Is.

92. SPHERICAL TRIGONOMETRY, by J. Hann. 1».

Nos. 91 ail '2 in 1 vol., price is.

93. MENSURATION, by T. . iker. \s. 6d.

94. MATHEMATICAL TABLES, LOGARITHMS, with Tables of

Natural Sines, Cosines, and Tangents, by H. Law, C.E. 2s. 6(2.

96. ASTRONOMY, by the Rev. R. Main. Is.

101. DIPPERENTIAL CALCULUS, by W. S. B. Woolhouse. Is.

101*. WEIGHTS, MEASJRES, AND MONEYS OP ALL
NATIONS ; with the Principles which determine the Rate of
Exchange, by W. S. B. Woolhouse. Is. 6d.

102. INTEGRAL CALCULUS, RUDIMENTS, by H. Cox, B. A. Is.

103. INTEGRAL CALCULUS, Examples on, by J. Hann. 1«.

104. DIPPERENTIAL CALCULUS, Examples, by J. Haddon. 1».

105. ALGEBRA, GEOMETRY, and TRIGONOMETRY, in Easy

Mnemonical Lessons, by the Rev. T. P. Kirkman. Is. 6d.

117. SUBTERRANEOUS SURVEYING, AND THE MAG-
NETIC VARIATION OF THE NEEDLE, by T. Penwick,
with Additions by T. Baker. 2s. 6d.

131. READY-RECKONER POR MILLERS, PARMERS, AND
MERCHANTS, showing the Value of any Quantity of Corn,
with the Approximate Values of Mill-stones & Mill Work. Is.

SCIENTIFIC AND MECHANICAL WORKS.

136. BUDIMENTARY ARITHMETIC, by J. Haddon, edited by

A. Arman. Is. 6d.

137. KEY TO THE ABOVE, by A. Arman. la. 6d.

147. STEPPING STONE TO ARITHMETIC, by A. Arman. Is.

148. KEY TO THE ABOVE, by A. Arman. U.

158. THE SLIDE RULE, AND HOW TO USE IT. With
Slide Rule in a pocket of cover. Us.

CIVIL ENGINEERING.

13. CIVIL ENGINEERING, by H. Law and G. R. Bumell. 4a. 6d.

29. DRAINING DISTRICTS AND LANDS, by G. D. Dempwy. U.

(With No. 30, Drainage and Sewage of Towns, 2 vols, in 1, 3«.)
31. WELL-SINKING, BORING, AND PUMP WORK, by J. G.

Swindell, revised by G. R. Burnell. la.
43. TUBULAR AND IRON GIRDER BRIDGES, including the

Britannia and Conway Bridges, by G. D. Dempsey. Is. Qd.

46. ROAD-MAKING AND MAINTENANCE OP MACADA-

MISED ROADS, by Field-Marshal Sir J. P. Burgoy ne. Is. 6d.

47. LIGHTHOUSES, their Construction & Illumination, by Ahin

Stevenson. 3s.

02. RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION, by Sir M. Stephenson. With
Additions by E. Nugent, C.E.

62». RAILWAY CAPITAL AND DIVIDENDS, with Statistics of

Working, by E. D. Chattaway. Is.
78. STEAM AND LOCOMOTION, on the Principle of connecting

Science with Practice, by J. 3ewell. 2s.
80*. EMBANKING LANDS FROM THE SEA, by J.Wiggins. 2s.
82»». A TREATISE ON GAS WORKS, AND THE PRACTICE

OP MANUFACTURING AND DISTRIBUTING COAL

GAS, by S. Hughes, C.E. 3s.
82»*». WATER-WORKS FOR THE SUPPLY OP CITIES AND

TOWNS, by S. Hughes, C.E. 3s.
118. CIVIL ENGINEERING OP NORTH AMERICA, by D.

Stevenson. 3s. *

120. HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING, by G. R. BurneU. 3s.

121. RIVERS AND TORRENTS, with the Method of Regulating

their COURSE AND CHANNELS, NAVIGABLE CANALS,
&c., from tlie Italian of Paid Frisi. 2s. Qd.

EMIGRATION.

GENERAL HINTS TO EMIGRANTS. 2a.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE TO NATAL, by R. J. Mann, M.D. 2s.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE TO NEW SOUTH WALES,
WESTERN AUSTRALIA, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, VIC-
TORIA, AND QUEENSLAND, by James Baird, B.A. 2s.

160. EMIGRANT'S GUIDE TO TASMANIA AND NEW ZEA-
LAND, by James Baird, B.A.

154,

157
159

SCIENTIFIC AND MECHANICAL WORKS.

FINE ARTS.

20. PERSPECTIVE, by George Pyne. 2«.

27. PAINTING; or, A GRAMMAR OP COLOURING, by O.
Field, 23. I J •<"

40. GLASS STAINING, by Dr. M. A. Ge»»ert, with an Appendix

on tlie Art of Enamel Painting, &c. U. ^

41. PAINTING ON GLASS, from the German of Fromberg. ],.
69. MUSIC, Treatise on, by C. C. Spencer. 2s.

71. THE ART OF PLAYING THE PIAJfOFORTB by C C
Spencer, la. > J • ■"•

LEGAL TREATISES.

50. LAW OF CONTRACTS FOR WORKS AND SERVICES
by David Gibbons. Is. Qd. '

108. METROPOLIS LOCAL MANAGEMENT ACTS la 6d
108». METROPOLIS LOCAL MANAGEMENT AMENDMENT

ACT, 1862; with Notes and Index, la.

. N.B. Nns. 108 and 108* in 1 vol., price 2s. 6d

109. NUISANCES REMOVAL AND DISEASES PREVENTION

AMENDMENT ACT. la. "-^iwii

110. BECEJ/T LEGISLATIVE ACTS applying to Contractor.,

Merchants, and Tradesmen, la.
161. THE LA;V of FRIENDLY, PROVIDENT, BUILDING
AND LOAN SOCIETIES, by N. White, la '

THE LAW OF PATENTS FOR INVENTIONS, by P W
Oampin, Barrister.

MECHANICS & MECHANICAL ENGINEERING.

6. MECHANICS, by Charles Tomlinson. la. Gd.
12. PNEUMATICS, by Charles Tomlinson. New Edition, la. Gd

33. CRANES AND MACHINERY FOR RAISING HEAVY

BODIES, the Art of Constructing, by J. Glvnn. I*.

34. STEAM ENGINE, by Dr. Lardner. la.

59. STEAM BOILERS, their Construction and Management, by
R. Armstrong. With Additions by R. Mallet. Is. Gd.

63. AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING, BUILDINGS, MOTIVE
POWERS, FIELD MACHINES, MACHINERY AND
IMPLEMENTS, by G. H. Andrews, C.E. 3a.

67. CLOCKS, WATCHES, AND BELLS, by E. B. Denison. New
Edition, with Appendix. 3a. Gd.

„_ „ N.B.— Appendix (to the 4tli and 5th Editions) sold separately, price Is

77*. ECONOMY OF FUEL, by T. 8. Prideaux. la! Gd.

78*. THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE, by G. D. Dempsey. la. Gd.

79*. ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE ABOVE. 4to. 4a. Gd.

80. MARINE ENGINES, AND STEAM VESSELS, AND THE
SCREW, by R. Murray. With Additions by E. Nugent, C.E.,
and Glossary of Technical Terms, with their equivalents in
French, German, and Spanish. 3«.

SCIENTIFIC AND MECHANICAL WORKS.

82. WATER POWER, as applied to Mills, &c., by J. Glynn, i*.

97. STATICS AND DYNAMICS, by T. Baker. 1».

98. MECHANISM AND MACHINE TOOLS, by T. Baker; and

TOOLS AND MACHINERY, by J. Nasmyth. 2.*. 6d.
113». MEMOIR ON SWORDS, by Col. Marey, translated by Lieut.-
Col. H. H. Maxwell. 1*.

114. MACHINERY, Construction and Working, by 0. D. Abel.

115. PLATES TO THE ABOVE. 4to. 7«. 6d.

126. COMBUSTION OP COAL, AND THE PREVENTION OF
SMOKE, by C. Wye Williams, M.I.C.E. 3s.

139. STEAM ENGINE, Mathematical Theory of, by T.Baker. 1«.

165. ENGINEER'S GUIDE TO THE ROYAL AND MER-
CANTILE NAVIES, by a Practical Engineer. Revised by
D. F. McCarthy. 3a.

NAVIGATION AND SHIP-BUILOINQ.
51. NAVAL ARCHITECTURE, by J. Peake. 3s.
53». SHIPS FOR OCEAN AND RIVER SERVICE, Construction

of, by Captain H. A. Sommerfeldt. Is.
63»». ATLAS OP 16 PLATES TO THE ABOVE, Drawn for

Practice. 4to. 7s. 6d.

64. MASTING, MAST-MAKING, and RIGGING OP SHIPS,

by R. Kipping. 1«. 6d.

54*. IRON SniP-BUILDING, by J. '' tham. Fifth Edition,
with Supplement. 4*.

64»*. ATLAS OF 40 PLATES to illub aie preceding, includ-
ing numerous Modern Examples — " The Warrior," " Her-
cules," " Bellerophon," &c. S8s.

65. NAVIGATION ; the Sailor's Sea Book : How to Keep the Loe

and Work it off, &c. ; Law of Storms, and Explanation of
Terms, by J. Greenwood. 2s.

83 Ins. SHIPS AND BOATS, Form of, by W. Bland. 1«. 6d,
99. NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY AND NAVIGATION, by J. R.

Young. 2s.
100*. NAVIGATION TABLES, for Use with the above. Is. 6d.
106. SHIPS' ANCHORS for all SERVICES, by G. CotseU. Is. 6d.
149. SAILS AND SAIL-MAKING, by R. Kipping, N.A. 2s. 6d.

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL SCIENCE.

1. CHEMISTRY, by Prof. Fownes. With Appendix on Agri-

cultural Chemistry. New Edition, with Index. Is.

2. NATURAL PHILOSOPHY, by Charles Tomlinson. 1«.

3. GEOLOGY, by Major-G«n. Portlook. New^ Edition, with

Index. Is. 6d.

4. MINERALOGY, by A. Ramsay, Jun. 3s.

7. ELECTRICITY, by Sir W. S. Harris. Is. 6d.

.lilNTIFIC AND MECHANICAL WORKS.

8. MAGNETISM, by 8ir W. 8. Harris. 3*. ".d.

72. «'',7J'-'/™ BX.3SIL S.IELLli/£L,''„'f U» Moll„«.,.
Dy a. p. Woodward. With Appendix by Ralph Tate P O S
♦Mbrf.;,n cloth boards. 7s. o/Hn half m^occo:8,

.3a. M^^FI' iStli'-rrn-""

MISCELLANEOUS TREATISES

IL^^TKYN^ASe^OP^^^A^^^^^^^ ,

113. USB OP FIELD AfiTILLESf 0™E'ivt"E:%Xbe f"
i«. t™JI****^ "^y Lieut.-Col. H. H. Maxwell. 1, ei ^*"'^'^^'

152. PRACTICAL HINTS FOR INVESTING MONET- with

an Explanation of the Mode of Transacting BusbeBs on the

IM Tn^J'/^t*^,??'> ^»"°'« ^''''yfo'-d. Sworn Brok-r U

153. I-OCKE ON THE CONDUCT OP THE HUmSJ UnJ)ER.

STANDING, Selections from, by S. H. Emmens. 2a.

NEW SEEIES OF ED UCATIONAL WORKS.

[77fis Series is kept in three styles of binding— the prices of each
are given in columns at the end of the lines.] ^ ^

1. ENGLAND. History of. by W. D.Hamilton
c «T%-n,T,^^'"ll." ■* P"""*^' P"ce 18. each.

6. GREECE History of. by W. D. Hamilton

and E. Levien, M.A.

7. ROME, History of, by E. Levien," M.a]

t Iff
3 I 5^

8. d.
4

s. d.
50

36
36

■as

X g

s.d.
6 6

4
4

NEW SERTES OF EDUCATIONAL WORKS.

11.
11*

12.

14.
15.

17.

19.
20

22.

24.
2d.

26.

27.
28,

30.
32.

34.
35.

39.
40.
41.

42.
43.

CHRONOLOGY OP HISTORY, LITE-

rature, Art, and Progress, from the earliest

period to the present tic^e
ENGLISH GRAMMAR, by Hyde Clarke,

D.C.L,

. HANDBOOK OP COMPARATIVE PHI-

ioloijy, by Hyde Clarke, D.C.L.
ENGLISH DICTIONARY, above 100,000

words, or 50,000 more than in any existing

work. By Hyde Clarke, D.C.L. .

, with Grammar

GREEK GRAMMAR, by H. C. Hamilton
DICT ONARY, by H. R. HamU-

ton. Vol. 1. Greek— English
Vol. 2. English — Greek

Complete in 1 vol.

with Grammar
LATIN GRAMMAR, by T. Goodwin, M.A.

DICTIONARY, by T. Goodwin,

M.A. Vol. 1. Latin— English
Vol. 2. English— Latin

Complete in 1 vol.

with Grammar
FRENCH GRAMMAR, by G. L. Strauss .
FRENCH DICTIONARY, by A. Elwes.
Vol. 1. Freach— English

Vol.2. English— French

Complete in 1 vol.

, with Grammar

ITALIAN GRAMMAR, by A. Ehves .

TRIGLOT DICTIONARY, by

A. Eiwes. Vol. 1. Italian — Englisli —

French

■ Vol. 2. English — French— Italian

Vol. 3. French — Italian — English
Complete in 1 vol.

with Grammar

SPANISH GRAMMAR, bv A. Elwes
ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-
SPANISH DICTIONARY, by A. Elwes

with Grammar

GERMAN GRAMMAR, by G. L. Strauss

READER, from best Authors .

TRIGLOT DICTIONARY, by

N. E. 3. A. Hamilton. Vol. 1. English-
German — French

Vol. 2. German — French — English

Vol. 3. French — German — English

Complete in 1 vol. .

, with Grammar

§•

5-E

o •>

s.d.

2 6

4 6

5 6

1 6

3 6

5 6

1 6

2 6

i 2

7 6

8 6

1 1 ^

« 5

s. d.

5
60

5 6

6 6

6
6

8 6

9 6

5 6

6 6

4 6

5 6

NEW SERIES OF EDUCATIONAL WORKS.

44. HEBREW DICTIONARY, by Dr. Breselau.
Vol. I. Hebrew— English

jia ~~~ ~~Z~ > with Grammar

^- ■ — - Vol. 2. English— Hebrew

-Complete, with Grammar, in 2 vols
.- \^« ~ GRAMMAR, by Dr. Bresslau
f- ^RPCHAJVD ENGLISH raRASE BOOK
48. COMPOSITION AND PUNCTUATION
by J. Brenan . . '

DERIVATIVE SPELLING B6oK,by S.

Rowbotham . . ^

DATES AND EVENTS. A TabularView
of English History, with Tabular Geo-
graphy, by Edgar H. Rand.

46*.

49
50,

*. d.

7
3

I
1

1 6

> o

8. d. ; 3. d.

12 J14

GREEK AND LATIN CLASSICS,

With Explanatory Notes in English.

LATIN SERIES.

A NEW LM^IN DELECTUS, with Vocabularies and '
Notes, by H. Young . . ,

2. CyESAR. De Belle Gallico ; Notes by H. Young ' " -C

3. CORNELIUS NEPOS; Notes by H.Young .' " 7^'
^' ^^S?/\ The Georgies Bucolics, and Doubtful Poems;

Notes by W. Bushton, M.A., and H. Young i „ «,/

fi. VIRGIL. Jilneid; Notes by H.Young . . ' o,

Nos. i and r> in 1 vol. vellum clotli, 4s. f.d ' • ^^-

t' 2n?f^S" ^f^^!^P°'i««''^"dCarmen8eculare,byH.Young U.

7. HORACE. Satires and Epistles, by W. B. Smith, M. A. Is 6d

^os. 7 and 8 in 1 vol. vellum tlolh, ys. (id.

8. SALLUST Catiline and Jugurthino War; Notes by

vV. M. Donne, B.A Is Gd

9. TERENCE. Andria and Hoautontimorumenos ; Notes bv

the Rev. J. Davies, M.A. . . up,?

10. TERENCE Adelphi. Hecyra, and Phormio;' Notes by'

the Rov. J. Davies, M.A. . ^ o

11. TERENCE. Eunuchus, by Re^. J. Davies, M.A. " ' *^"

No3. 9, 10, and U in 1 vol. clclh boards.
14. CICERO. Do Amicitia, de Spiicetute, and Brutus ; Notes

by the Rev. W. B. Smith, M.A. . ";*>"• -""f^s ^

16. LIVY. Books i., ii., by H. Young . . . ' i', 6rf'
16*. LIVY. Books iii., iv., v., by H. Young . . . U Gd

17. LIVY. Books xxi., xxii., by W. B. SmiUi, M.A. '. U. Gd

GREEK AND LATIN CLASSICS.

19. CATULLUS, TIBULLUS, OVID, and PROPERTIUS,

Selections from, by W. Bodham Donne . . . . 2«.

20. SUETONIUS and the later Latin Writers, Selections from,

by W. Bodham Donne 2s.

21. THE SATIRES OF JUVENAL, by T. H. S. Escott, M.A.,

of Queen's College, Oxford.

2.
3.

9.
10.
11.
12.

13.
14.
15.
16.
17.

18.
20.
23.
26.
30.
32.
40.

41.
42.

LUCIAN.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.
HOMER.

•

It.

•

Is.

\s.

Is.

6d.

Is.

6rf.

GREEK SERIES.

A NEW GREEK DELECTUS, by H. Young .

XENOPHON. Anabasis, i. ii. iii., by H. Young

XENOPHON. Anabasis, iv. v. vi. vii., by H. Young
Nos. 2 and 3 in 1 vol. vellum cloth, 3s.

Select Dialogues, by H. Young

Iliad, i. to yi., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. .

Iliad, vii. to xii., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A.

Iliad, xiii. to xviii., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. Is. 6d.

Iliad, xix. to xxiv., by T. II. L. Leary, M.A. Is. &d.

Odyssey, i. to vi., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. Is. M.

Odyssey, vii. toxii., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. Is. 6rf.

Odyssey, xiii. to xviii., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. Is. Gd.

Odyssey, xix. to xxiv. ; and Hymns, by T. H. L.

Leary, M.A 2s.

Nos. 6 to 12 in 4 vols, vellum cloth, 168.

PLATO. Apologia, Crito, and Pha?do, by J. Davies, M.A. 2s.
HERODOTUS, Books i. ii., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A. Is. Gd.
HERODOTUS, Books iii. iv., by T. H. L. Leary, M.A.
HERODOTUS, Books v. vi. vii., by T. H. L. Leary.M.A.
HERODOTUS, Books viii. ix., and Index, by T. H.

Leary, M.A

Nos. 14 to 17 in 2 vols, vellum cloth, 's.

SOPHOCLES. Oldipus Tyrannus, by H. Young .
SOPHOCLES. Antigone, by J. Milner, B.A. .
EURIPIDES. Hecuba and Medea, by W. B. Smitli, M.A
EURIPIDES. Alcestis, by J. Milner, B.A. .
.ffiSCHYLUS. Prometheus Vinctus, by J. Davies, M.A. .
iESCHYLUS. Septem contra Thebas, by J. Davies, M.A.

Is. Gd.
Is. Gd.
L.
Is. Gd.

. Is.
. 2s.
' ' Gd.
. U.
. Is.
Is.

ARISTOPHANES. Acharnenses, by C. S. D. Townshend,

M.A Is.Gd.

TIIUCYDIDES, Book i., by H. Young . . . .Is.
XENOPHON. Agesilaus, by LI. F. W. Jowitt. . Is. Gd.

LONDON: VIRTUE & CO., 20, IVY LANE.