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32X

Have, on their intrinsic merits^ obtained and held the

position they now occupy as the standard weighing

machines of the country. They are manufactured

under the personal supervision of the original
inventor, and are receiving constant improve-

tnentS, Every scale is warranted durably accurate,

and each one is thoroughly tested by the United States

Standard,

^^ Illustrated and descriptive circulars will be forwarded
upon application to

FAIRBANKS & CO.,

252 Broadway, New York.

FAIRBANKS, BROWN & CO.,

118 Milk St., Boston.

FAIRBANKS, GREENLEAF & CO.,

172 Lake St., Chicago.

FAIRBANKS & EWING,

Masonic Hall, Philadelphia.
(See page 183.)

THE ORIGINAL

Travelers Insurance Company,

OF HARTFORD, CONN.,

Makes all kinds of

LIFE AND ACCIDENT INSDRANCE

}

either separately or combined,
AT LOWEST RATES OF PREMIUM.

Net Cash Assets, Jan. 1, 1867, $741,337.02.

ACCIDENT DEPARTMENT.

General Accident Policies written for any term from one month to one year, in
suring against all forms of UODILY INJ UUiT 15Y ACCIDENT, whether fatal
or non-fatal. These policies guaranty the payment of a fixed sum, from ff500 to
SlOjOOO, in case of fatal accident ; or a stipulated sum per week, from $3 to ^ou as
indemnity for loss of time by totally DiaxBLiNO injury by accident, at an annual cost
of $5 to $20 per lj?l,000, according to occupation and degree of hazard.

The TiiiVELEiis op IIaetford— the pioneer Accident Insurance Company of the
country— had, up to June 1, 18G7, issued over Ninety-Five Thousand Policies, and
paid upwards of Half a Million Dollars in losses, including more than six thousand
five hundred losses for non-fatal injury, and eighty-one total losses (by death), in
which the sum of $!i!i4,000 was realized for $1413 received in premiums,

LIFE DEPARTMENT.

The Travelers op IIaetford also insures agiiinst loss of life from ant cause,
whether disease or accident, with Weekly Indemnity for totally disetbHng accident, at
rates of premium lower tlian any other company. All approved forms of ordinary
Life Policies written, whether Term, Annual Life, Ten Year Non-Korfeitable or
Endowment Policies, either with or without indemnity for totally disabling bodily in-
juries, as the applicant may prefer.

Oldest Accident Insurance Co. in America.

J. G. BATTERSON, Pres't. RODNEY DENNIS, Sec'y.

Elizur Wright, Consulting Actuary.

Chas. E. Wilson, Ass't Sec'y.

(CT^Agencies In all principal towns and cities of the United States and Canadas.

tJOUQlAS
1-ifeRARy

queeN's UNlveRsiry

AT kiNQSrON
"resenfed by

ANOiJYfvUJUS

KiNQSTON ONTARIO CANA&A

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MAP OF THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY.

V JL

r-r-JB^-^-W—- w»

BURT'S

ILLUSTRATED GUIDE

OF THE

COHECTICUT YALLEI

CONTAINING DESCIIIPTIONS OF

[OUNT HOLYOKE, MOUNT MANSFIELD, WHITE MOUNTAINS,
LAKE MEMPIIREMAGOG, LAKE WILLOUGHBY,
MONTREAL, QUEBEC, &c.

By henry M. BURT.

NORTHAMPTON;

NEW ENGLAND PUBLISHING COMPANY.
1867.

V w-. Ct'B

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by

HENRY M. BURT,

In the Olerk's office of the District Court of the United States, for the

District of Massachusetts.

CASE, LOCKWOOD A CO.,
PRINTERS AND BOOKBINDERS,
HARTFORD, CONN.

LOOKWOOB ft KANDETILU,

Electrotypers,
BABTroBP, oonv.

» i

TnE EDITOE^S APOLOGY.

In presenting this book to the public, it has been the nim of the Editor
to awaken an increased interest in Now England's fairest and loveliest
regions, and to assist the seeker after pleasure to obtain a more perfect
knowledge of the grandeur anu beauty of Connecticut Valley scenery
and that bordering on it. He has aimed to discard glittering generalities
for solid substance, stopping by the way only long enough to point out
the piquant condiments that each may flavor to his own taste. lie haa
also endeavored to present briefly and tersely each object of interest
from its own standpoint, so that the traveler, whether in pursuit of
business or pleasure, can find something suited to his wants.

Every town and mountain of. importance on the entire route, from the
Ocean to the St. Lawrence, has been visited, and the statements made
concerning them in this volume are from original and reliable sources,
and not from hasty glances and antiquated gazetteers, as is too frequently
the case with many of the guide books that have been published.

In preparing the Guide the Editor has kept in view the wants of the
public, and has bestowed commendation only upon such places and per-
sons as he conscientiously believed to be worthy, avoiding in every in-
stance that which might tend to vex and mislead.

An occasional anecdote and reminiscence, many of them never before
in print, have been culled from the Avay-side and are here presented, to
enliven and relieve the monotony of description, as too much of a good
thing is apt to weary the best of tastes.

The Guide is at your service, Reader, and it is hoped you will find in it
a hefp to your enjoyment of a tour through the Connecticut Valley,
whore it is confidently believed you can find increased health and a
pleasant life-long remembrance.

1C67426

CONTENTS

Alburph Sulphur Springs,
Allyn HouKc, Hartford,
Amherst and its Colleges,
Ane'jdote of Dr. Lathrop,

Arsenal at Springfield,

Aarutney Mountain,

B." rnett.

Barton,

Barton Landing, .

Battle of Bloody Brook,

Bellows Falls,

Berlin Junction, .

Bernardston,

Bethel,

Bolton Falls,

Bradford,

Braintree,

Brattlcboro,

Brattleboro House,

Bridgeport,

Burlington,

Camel's Hump,

Capturt' of Mrs. Howe,

Central Park,

Charlestown,

Chicopee,

Claremont,

Coventry,

Dartmouth College,

Dartmouth Student and the Chelsea Clerk

Deerfield,
Deerfield Bridge,
Digging for Gold,
East Rock,
Easthampton,
Elephant's Tusk, .
'Essex Junction,
Fairbanks' Scales,
Fairlee and Orford,
First Blood of the Revolution,
First Settlement in Vermont,
Florence Sewing Machine Works,
General Stark,
Georgia, .
Governor Fairbanks,
Great Bend in the Connecticut,
Great Iron Bridge at Warehouse Point,
Great Ox-Bow at Newbury,
Greenfield,
Greenwich,
Hadley,
Hanging Hills,
Hartford, .

Page.

Iti8

101

\3^

188

18!)

107

131

45
115
141
149
177
141
118
121

32
151
149
116

25
135

75
135
190
171
174
i08
112
182

97
123
150
183
177
124
117

90
123
153
183
103

(>0
181
IIH

CONTENTS.

Page.

108
65

101
72
67

Hartford Carpet Co.

Hiirtlund,

Hattield,

Haverhill,

Hazard Powder Works, .

Heroism of Jolm Kilburn,

Hif^h Hridge,

Hif^li Gate Sulphur Springs,

Holyoko,

Inland House, Bellows Falls,

Isl.inds in the Connecticut,

Jay Peak,

Jonesville,

Lake Memphrcraagog,

Lyndon,

MansHeld House, .

Mansion House, Northampton,

Massasoit House, Springfield,

MeDonough House,

Mclndoe's Falls,

Memphremagog, .

Meriden,

Middletown,

Middlesex,

Milford,

Milton,

Montpelier,

Montreal,

Moose Hillock,

Mount Holyoke Female Seminary

Mount Holyoke,

Mount Kilburn,

Mount Lamentation,

Mount Mansfield, .

Mount Monadnock,

Mount Orford,

Mount Tom,

Mrs. Partington on the Cars,

Newbury, .

New Britain,

New Haven,

New Haven Hotel,

New Rochelle,

Northampton,

Northfield, Mass.,

Nortlifiold, Vt., .

North Thetford, . .

Norwalk, .

Norwich & Hanover,

Norwich University,

Old Put Riding Down the Rocks,

Origin of the Silk Fever,

Otta Quechee River,

Ottawa, Canada West,

Owl's Head,

83,

Pag«
(34
137
104
178
61
127
26
163
77
132
182
188
150
191-209
157
145
89
71
47
181
192
44
46
143
34
153
142
164
178
81

217—236
130
45
146
116
206
85
133
178
46
86
40
26
86
116
142
177
81
171
176
28
94
138
169
207

CONTENTS.

Passumpsic Rivor,

PoinpuiiooHuc, • . . !

Portland Qiuirriof*,

Prospect lloii.He, Mf. Ilolvokc, '. '.

R(wi(l(.'uc(! of Dr. Holland,

Richmond, • . . '.

Round Hill, Northampton,

Rouse's Point, ... *

Koyalton, ...'.'

Runaway Pond, ....

Smith Charities, Northampton, .

Sharon,

South Decrfiold, .

South Barton, . . '. '

South Koyalton, ... *

South Vernon, . . . ."

South Windsor, . . .* ]

Springfield, • • ! !

Stamford, > . . . ]

State Line, • . .' '

St. Albans, . ]

St. Albana Raid, .

St. Johnnbury, ... *

St. Johnsbury Center,

Sugar Loaf Mountain, . ] [

Sugar River Bridge,

Summit of Green Momitains, ! ]

Temple Street, New Haven, ] [

Thanksgiving postponed for want "of Molasso,^

Thetford, . , . _ '

To White Mountains, Lake Mcmpliremagoo- and

Turner's Falls, . » o o

Victoria Bridge, .

Wallingford Community,

Walpole, .

Warehouse Point,

Warner House, Northampton,

Watcrbury,

Welden House, St. Albans

Wells River,

West Burke,

West Hartford, .

West Randolph, .

West Rock,

Westminster,

White River,

White River Junction,

Williston,

Willoughby Lake,

Windsop, .

Windsor Locks, .

Windsor, .

Woodstock,

Quebec,

187, 210-

17«
48

87
1(>3
Mo

188

y;5

140

lii7

188

I4i>

115

3(1

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18;]

186
104
136
141
37
180
176

1.71
114
166

42
125

90
144
1S8
181
187
140
141

124

139

138

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136

140

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SUMMER TIME TABLES FOR 1867, COMMENCING

JULY 2nd.

CONDENSED TIME TADLE
FnoM New York to Montukal, White MouNiAiNi^, and Lakb

Mkmi'iiremaooo.

{Arrive,
Leave,

OOINO NORTU

UATI

New York,

Bri(lgoj)ort, - - -
New ila.on,

Ilartford,

Spriugfielil,

Northampton,
Greenticlil,
South Vornon,
UrattU'horo,
Ijellowa Falla,

Windsor, ...

White River Junction,

Wells River,
Lttleton,

" Profile House "
♦'Crawford House,"

St. Johnsbury, -

Newport and Lake Memphre
niagog,

White River Junction, ■

Montpelier,
Waterbury, -

Leave Waterbury by Stage for
Stowc and Mansfield House,

Essex Junction,
Burlington, - - -
St. Albans, ...
St. Johns, . . -
Montreal, ...

Montreal

Stoamb't

Expreaa.

Express.

from

ExprvM.

P.M

Peck Slip.

A. M.

P. M.

p. M.

8.00

12.16

3.(0*

3.16

10.15

2.:m

5.14

11.00

3.20

6.00

8.16

P. M.

12.23

4.47

7.15

9.42

1.10

A. coo

A. 8.10

10.46

A. M.

A. H.

2.00

L 6.30

L, 7.45

L 7.45

2.5;?

7.20

8.35

8.43

8.04

9.23

4.17

8.33

10.00

4.45

8.57

10.30

5.40.

10.00

11.40

p. M.

8.00

11.10

12.45

9.00

11.47

A. 1.15

A. H.

8.20

L. 1.45

10.15

3.38

11.15

'1.15

4.40

P.M.

l.dO

1.00

6.30

4.00

9.30

A. M.

11.10

4.34

P. M.

1.00

' 6.30

11.47

1.20

A. M.

8.00

3.45

3.22

4.03

A.U.

p. M.

9.U0

4.00

5.30

4.80

6.00

5.05

5.35

5.40

6.00

8.00

9.80

10.55

ExpreM.

p. H.

8.O0
10.33
11.20

A. M.

12.4(1
A. 1.40

A. M.

L 7.46

R. A. Deming, Agent at Crawford House.

CONDENSED TIME TABLE

From Montreal, White Mountains, and Lake MtMruREMAOOO xo

New York. *

GOING SOUTH.

Morning

Night

Morning

Steamb't

LXATB

Express.

Train.

Montreal,

P.H.

4.00

St. Jolma,

A. K.

5.05

St. Albans,

6.40

7.20

Huflii);^toii, ....

7.15

8.00

E-!sox Junction, . - .• .

7.60

8.46

Miin.stit'ld House, (Stowe,) -

6.30

2.00

Wiitorhury, - . . - .

8.50

9.48

1 ^

Montpolior, ....

9.05

10.05

til 1>

A. M.

White River Junction, . - -

A 12.00

1.25

A. H.

P.M.

-ZiA

Newport, Lake Mcmphremagog,

7.15

7.00

St. Joluisbury, ....

9.18

9.00

<-•

" Cnuvfoiil House," -

4.30

12.30

" PioHlo House," ....

7.00

8.00

Littleton,

9.00

6.00

Wells lliver,

10.13

10.00

(

All. 55

All. 34

A. U.

White River Junction, - • <

P H.

L12.25

A. U.

L 1.25

4.00

Windsor,

1.05

2.05

5.05

Bellows Falls, - - . .

2.25

3.32

7.50

Brattlehoro,

3.15

4.27

8.50

South Vernon, ....

3.45

4.46

9.23

Greenfield,

4.14

6.15

9.59

Northampton, - - . -

(

6.08

6.54
A 6.30

10.54
A 11. 30

P. tf.

7.30

Springfield, . . . . i

6.00

L 7.00

L 12.00

8.20

Hartford,

6.50

8.10

p. u.

12.50

9.30

Now Haven, . - - - -

8.00

9.45

2.05

11. UO

Bridgeport, ....

8.35

lU.22

p. M.

2.40

A. U.

New York,

10.45 1

12.30

4.45

5.;m

•tp J. C. Stevens, Agent at Profile House.

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10.55
10.22

M§^»

12.43
12.35
1228
12.16
12.06
12.01

A. M.

11.53

si"*"*

3.12
2.40

j^ laui ■«(<•«»< T»( .i»i ■>i< ^ eoeo rowcoeo

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P.M.

7.20
7.14

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P.M.

8.10
804

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9.07
8.35

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Vermont Central, Vt. & Canada, Sullivan, and Montreal &
Vermont Junction Railroads.

OOIIVO IVORTH.

Miles.

4
8
13
18
26
30
34

43
47
53
58
60
65
72
78
86
93

103
104
1()8
120
123
120
132
130
'141
144
140
147
150
100

STATIONS.

Montreal
Night Express.

Bellows Falls,
South Charlestown,
Charlestown,
North Charlestown,
Chremont,
Windsor,
Hartland,
North Hartland,

White River Junct'n,

White River Village,

Woodstock,

West Ilartl'ord,

Sharon,

South Royalton,

Rovalton,

Bethel,

Randolph,

Braintree,

Roxbury,

Northfield,

Montpelier Junction,

Montpelier,

Middlesex,

Waterbury,

Bolton,

Jonesville,

Richmond,

Williston,

Essex Junction,

Winooski,

Burlington,

Colchester,

Milton,

Georgia,

St. Albans,

Alburgh Spring?,

Rouse's Point,

Ilighgate Springs,

St. John's,

GOIIVG HOUTH.

Fares.

.40

.65

.85

1.30

1.00
1.15
1.35
1.50
1.60
1.90
2.10
2.35

2.75
8.00
8.35
8.55
8.85
4.05
4.15
4.35
4.55
4.75
4.80

4.85

4.90
6.05
6.20
5.30

5.45

6.60

100

102

107

112

117

118

120

125
129
134
142
146
152
156
IftO

STATIONS.

St. Johns,
Highgate,

Rouse's Point,
Alburgh Springs,

St, Albans,

Georgia,

Milton,

Colchester,

Burlington,

Winoo.'iki,

Essex Junction,

Willi.ston,

Richmond,

Jonesvillc,

Bolton,

Wuterbury,

Middlesex,

Montpelier,

Moutpelier Junction,

Northfield,

Roxbury,

Braintree,

Randolph,

Bethel,

Royalton,

South Royalton,

Sharon,

We.st Hartford,

Woodstock,

White River Village,

White River Junction,

North Hartland,

Ilartland,

Windsor,

Clareniont,

North Charlestown,

Charlestown,

South Charlestown,

Bellows Falls,

Express.

Day

Express.

Night
Express,

. A. M.

A. .M.

P, .M,

10. 00

4.40

11.12

6.05

4.30

10,45

5.40

4.58

11.05

6,08

Mall.

6.30

12.00

7,25

6.55

12.22

7.50

7.05

12.32

7.59

7.25

12., 50

8.20

7.00

1.35

8.00

7.08

1.27

8.16

7.40

1.10

8.40

7.50

1.20

8.50

8.05

1.33

9.05

8.13

1.41

9.14

8.22

1.49

9.23

8.42

2.10

9.48

8.57

2.25

10.03

9.20

2.50

10.05

9.10

2.42

10,17

9.30

3.15

10,37

9.50

3.30

11,00

10.14

y.60

11,25

10.30

4,02

11.40

10.48

4.19

12,00

11.00

4.27

12,13

11,10

4.31

12.30

11.22

4.41

12.35

11.36

4.52

12.50

11.48

5.00

1.00

11. 52'

6.05

1,05

Arr. 11.55

5,10 (

Ar. 1.10

Lv. 12.25

Lv. 1.25

12.40

1.40

12.54

1.53

1.05

2.05

1.25

2.35

1.40

2.45

1.58

3.00

2.10

3.10

2.20

8.20

)

Vermont Central Railroad Line

CONNECTINO AT BkLLOWS FaIXS, WITH

Connecticut River Railroad Line, for Springfield, New York, &c., forming
THE DIRECT RAILROAD LL\E,

BETWEEN

New York, New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, &c., and the Wiiite and
Franconia Mountains. Mount Mansfield, Montreal and Ogdeusburg.

CONNECTIONS SURE, AND NO CHANGE OF CARS

BETWEEN

Springfield and St. Albans, and Springfield and Wells River.
SZEEPIXG CABS are run on all night JPaaaenger Train*

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RAILROAD CONXECTIOXS.

At Wells Rivkr with White Mountuiu.s Railroad for Littleton, and Bos-
ton, Concord and Montreal Railroad lor Concord; at Wuitk Rivkh Junc-
tion with Northern Railroad lor Concord, Manchester, Nashua, Lowell
Worcester, Boston; also with Vermont Central Railroad for Waterbury,
Montpelier, Burlington, Saratoga, via Lake Chaniplain, Ogdensburgh and
Montreal; also with Connecticut River Line for Bellows Falls, Saratoga,'
via Rutland, Brattleboro, Springfield, Hartford, New Ilaven, New York,
and southern cities ; also for New London Northern R, R., Amherst,
Palmer, Willimantic, Norwich, New London and New York.

STAGE CONNECTIONS.

Stages leave Norwich for Hanover. Pompanoosuc for TJnion Villago
and Strafford, Thetford for West Fairlee, Vershire and Chelsea. Brad-
ford for Corinth, Topsham, Washington, Orange, Montpelier and Barre.
Wells River for Groton. Barnet for Peachani, St. Johnsbury for Dan-
ville, Walden, Ilardwick, Cabot, Montpelier, West Concord, Lunenburg,
Guildh'til, Lancaster and Littleton. Lyndon for Wheelock, Sheffield and
Island Poid. West Burke for Willoughby Lake. Barton for Glover and
Craftsbury. Barton Landing for Irasburg. Newport for Troy, Derby
for Deriiy Line, Stanstead, and eastern townships of Canada.

IRON STEAMER ORFORD.

Steamer Orford leaves Newport daily at V.SO A. M., connecting
with coaches for Sherbrooke — Grand Trunk Railroad — arriving at Mon-
treal or Quebec the same evening. Returning, loaves Magog at 2.00 P.
M., arriving at Newport to connect with 7.00 P. M. train for New York,
Boston, and Burlington.

C^SMOKING CARS ON ALL TRAINS.,^

LuxnniotisLT furnished "Ladies Cars" run daily between Springfield
and Lake MemphremaKOg.

NO CHANGE OF CARS
between Boston (Lowell Depot) and Lake Memphremagog, or Springfield

and Lake Memphremagog.

THROUGH TICKETS
sold at all the principal railroad stations for Profile House, (Franconia
iriountains,) Crawford House, ("White Mountains,) and Newport, (Lake
Memphremagog.) Also at Profile IIocse and Crawford Hoisk for Bos-
ton, New York, Saratoga, Montreal, Quebec, and intermediate stations.

t^ASK FOR TICKETS VIA PASSUMPSIC RATLROA; ,^

A. H. PEKRY, Superintc xdent.

TUB

miM Wxk mi %tdAmt

INSURES AGAINST

LOSS OF LIFE

FROM ANY CAUSE,

With Wd^IiUj 0ump:a»8atian; fait BisabiUtij;^

CAUSED BY ACCIDENT.

Cash Capital,

$300,000.

TH09. J. VAIL, Pres't. 0. 0. KIMBALL, Vice-Pres't.

JAMES P. TAYLOR, Sec'y.

NEW AND ADVANTAGEOUS FEATURES!

LIFE AND ACCIDENT INSURANCE IN SEPARATE DEPARTMENTS,

NON-FORf EITING llf E AND ENDOWMENT INSURANCE POLICIES ISSUED,

on the most favorable terms ; with contracts for WEEKLY
COMPENSATION, which may be renewed or discontinued
without changing the Life Pohcy.

D;^ Procure one of the Company's Circulars and see for yourself.

GUIDE BOOK.

INTRODUCTORY.

The fertility and beauty of the Connecticut Valley have
long been known to the favored few, and poets and artists have
given the world glimpses of its salient points, but it was not
until quite a recent period that its charming and matchless
characteristics became known to the many. The extension of
more rapid and comfortable modes of travel has opened the
doors to this elysian field, and thousands come with the recur-
ring period of foliage and flowers, to worship at the shruie of
beauty found in lofty mountains, broad meadows and a majestic
river. While the noble Connecticut is the Rhine of New Eng-
land, the region of its source is the Switzerland of America,
and year by year the pilgrims to this favored land journey
thither in search of rest and inspiration.

There is hardly a town, mountain, or lake, along the entire
route, that is not of interest to the tourist, but those which
have attrapted the most attention within the last few years, are
New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, Northampton, Mt. Holyoke,
Sugar Loaf Mountain, Greenfield, Brattleboro', Bellows Falls,
White Mountains, Lake Willoughby, Lake Momphremagog,
Quebec, Montreal, St. Albans, Burlington, and Mt. Mansfield.

From New York to Springfield there is a double track rail-
road, and the express trains stop only at Stamford, Norwalk,
Bridgeport, New Haven, Meriden, Berlin Junction, and Hart-
ford, running 136 miles in five hours. At Springfield the
tourist will have 50 minutes for dinner. The Massasoit House

22 TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

is situated within a hundred feet of the eastern end, (south
side) of the depot. A porter is always in attendance to take
your baggage to the hotel.

In i)roceeding to the AVhite Mountains, lake Memphrema-
gog, Quebec, Montreal, Mt. Mansfield, or intermediate points,
you will take the cars of the Connecticut River Kailro.ul, in
Springfield, on the north side of the depot. If you are unac-
quainted with the route, you will do well to remember that the
cars going either north or south, enter and leave the Springfield
depot at its western end.

Between Springfield and Lake Memphromagog there is no
change of cars. An elegantly furnished ladies' car runs through
both ways on the morning trains. Going north on the train |

which leaves Springfit lu at 7.50 A. m., you stop about 20
minutes at Bellows Falls, where you can take dinner at the
refreshment room, or wait until the arrival of the train at
White River Junction at 1.15 r. m. At this place you have
half an hour for dinner, either in going or returning from the
White Mountains. Adjoining the refreshment room there is a
dining hall, where you will find a neatly spread table and a
good dinner. At Wells River, 40 miles from White River
Junction, you change cars in going to the White IMountains.
From there to Littleton the distance by the White Mountains
Railroad is 20 miles. From Littleton you proceed by stage
to Profile House, 12 miles, and to Crawford House, 22 miles.

The tourist should bear in nrind that the Crawford House is
in the White Mountains, and the Profile House in the Franc(3^
nia Mountains. If you call for a ticket for the White IVIoun-,
tains, the agent will give you one to the Crawford House.
You will find it to your advantage to purchase one to the Pro-
file House, as this wnll save you 13 miles of staging the same
day. If you leave White River Junction at 8.20 a. m., you
reach the Profile House at 1, and the Crawford House at 4,
r. M. If you leave at 1.45 p. m., (the morning train from

INTRODUCTORY.

ige
Is.
is

|C(X

ise,

'O-

le
|ou
4,

SprinpffieUl,) yon arrive at the Profile House at 6.30, and at
Crawford House at 9.30.

At Lake Memphrcmagog, 105 miles from White River Junc-
tion and 229 from Springfield, the cars stop at the door of the
IMcmphremagog House, on the shore of the lake. Leaving
Springfield at 7.45, a. m., you arrive there at G.30, p. m. The
next morning you can leave with Capt. Fogg on the steamer
Mountain Maid, for a trip through the lake, which is 30 miles
in length. You can stop at the Mountain House, 12 miles from
the Memphremagog House, and ascend Owl's Head, which is
nearly 3,000 feet above the lake, or proceed to Magog, at the
outlet. From Magog you can stage it 16 miles to the Grand
Trunk Railway, at Sherbrook, and proceed thence to Quebec
or IMontrcal.

While the route from New York to the Wliite Mountains and
Quebec, through the Connecticut Valley, is flir the most in-
teresting, it is seventy miles shorter than any other.

In leaving New York, the tourist, if he prefers, ran take ♦ho
night boat to New Haven, ?pend a few hours the next morning
in the city, and then proceed north.

In going to Mount Mansfield, you proceed to Watcrbnry, on
the Vermont Central Railroad, where you take the stage for
Stowe, 10 miles further north. At Stowe there is. a first class
hotel, capable of holding 300 guests. This is 8 miles from the
summit, where there is another hotel, which will accommodate
about 100 persons. Coaches run from Stowe to the Half-way
House, 3 miles from the Summit House. The remainder of
the distance is accomplished on horse back.

Li going to Montreal, business men, especially, will find the
route through the Connecticut Valley a desirable one. Tiie
train leaves New York at 12.15, p. m., arriving at Springfield
at 6 o'clock. Here you have half an hour for supper. From
Springfield to St. Albans, sleeping cars are run on all night
trains, going through without change. You take breakfast at

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

St. Albans at 6, a. m., and arrive at Montroal at 9.30, a. m.
lieturning, you leave Montreal at 3.30, v. m., take supper at
St. Albana, breakfast at Springfield, and dinner in New York,
making this a pleasant and expeditious route between Canada
and New York.

Having given tliis brief summary of the facilities for a tour
through the heart of New England, a land not only overflowing
with goodness and beauty, but rich in historical incident, the
care-worn toiler is invited to green fields and shady nooks,
where he will not only find rest, but leascms in the stones and
ruiuung brooks.

THE ROUTE.

The ride over the Now York and New Haven Railroad, a
distance of 74 miles, is one of the most agreeable that can bo
taken by rail. Elegant private residences crown the hill-top3
on every hand, evidences of wealth and refinement, while the
views of the Sound at various points, dotted with the sails of busy
ooinnKirce, and of the shores of Long Island in the distance, give
pleasing variety to the scene. Many places along the route are
of iiistoric interest, where were enacted in the Revolution deeds
tliat will be ever memorable. These villages have been built, or
greatly improved, by persons doing business in New York, who
have sought liomes in (luict and rural places near the great city.
The beautiful groves and lawns that are passed are in refresh-
ing contrast with the paved and dirty streets just left behind.

Leaving the station at 27th Street, which is reached from the
Asfor House by horse car? and the public carriages, the train,
drawn by horses, passes through the tunnel, and thence to' 42d
Street, where the engine is attaclied.

CENTRAL PARK.

As you proceed northward the eastern boundary of Central
Park will be iioticed on the left, a ((uartcr of a mile from the
railroad. It embraces nearly a thousand acres and in time
will be one of the best parks in the world. Its lawns,
walks, drives, lakes and fountains make it very attraciive.
At four o'clock every Saturday afternoon during the summer
public concerts are given at the expense of the city, free
to all, and thousands are attracted thitlier to listen to the
2

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

music and stroll about the Park. Xn autumn, after the return of
city tourists from the cmmtry the gathering is immense, and the
display of elegant carriages and spirited horses has no equal at
any other tune or place in this country.

HIGH BRIDGE.

Five miles north of 42d Street is Harlem, once a suburban
villi'.ge, but now part of tlie Great Metropolis. Before crossing
Harlem River,the northern limits of Manhattan Island, the west-
ern end of High Bridge is visible. This is one of the greatest
triumphs ever made in the art of bridge building. It was built
across Harlem River for the purpose of conveying the water
flowing into Croton Aqueduct, to the receiving reservoir in New
York. It is 1450 feet in length, 114 feet above tide and was built
of cut stone. It has fifteen arches, eight of which are 80 feet span,
and the whole cost of the bridge exceeded a million of dollars.
A little steamer makes hourly trips during the summer from
Harlem to the bridge, affording an excellent opportunity for
strangers to visit it.

Crossing Harlem River the villages of Morrissania, Mott
Haven, Mount Vernon and Fordham arc i)assed before reach-
ing Williams' Bridge, where the Harlem Railroad branches to
the left and pursues a northerly route through the country, par-
allel with the Hudson River.

NEW ROCHELLE,

Nearly eighteen miles from New York, was "settled by
Huguenots iVom Rochelle, in France. Fo" several years it was
the residence of Thomas Paine, who died in 1809. He was
buried here upon what was formerly a part of his own estate.
The monument erected to his memory, bears the following inscrip-
tion, in accordance with his own request: "Thomas Paine,
author of Common Sense, died Jime 8, 1809, aged 72 years."
Paine was the son of an English Quaker, and coming to this

THE STATE LINE.

eturn of
and the
qual at

lUburban
crossing
the west-
greatest
was built
he water
ir in New
was built
feet span,
f dollars,
jner from
unity for

ma, Mott
reach-
[inches to
ntry, par-

ittled by
ars it was

He was

n estate.

ig inscrip-

Paine,

lycars."

ig to this

country in 1774«he settled in Philadelphia. In 177G he wrote
a pamphlet entitled Common Sense, in which he urged the sep-
aration of the colonies from the mother country. It met with
universal favor and more than any one thing, brought the peo-
ple to the point of resisting British tyranny. The pamphlet won
him the friendship of Washington, Frankhn, Dr. Rush and
other distinguished American leaders, and Congress acknowl-
edged his services by appointing him Secretary to the Commit-
tee on Foreign Affairs. He was the author of the often quoted
line, " These are the times that try men's souls," which appeared
in the Crisis, another Revolutionary pamphlet published by
him. In 1787 he visited France, went from there to England,
and returned to the United States in 1802, settling in New
York. Tiie Quakers refusing him a place of interment in their
gi*ounds, which favor he requested before his death, he was
buried on his farm in New Rochelle. William Cobbett, the
English reformer, who visited this country and wrote a biogra-
phy of Paine, disinterred his remains and took them to England.
Tlic monument erected to his memory, stands within a few feet
of where he was first buried.

'■ THE STATE LINE.

The stations of Mamaroneck, Rye and Port Chester, are
A passed before reaching the boundary line between New York
^ and Connecticut. The latter place is situated at the mouth of

Bryam River where the tourist after crossing it enters the

Nutmeg State.

GIIEENWICH. THE SCENE OF GEN. PUTNAM's DARING EX-

I PLOIT.

Soon after passing Port Chester, and 31 miles from New

M York, will be seen the village of Greenwich, situated on a hill,

I about a mile north of the railroad. It contains some elegant

t residences and two large churches, Congregational and Episco-

THE CONNECTICUT V.VLLEY GUIDE.

pal, built of stone. The Congregational churcR stands in a con-
spicuous place and its spire can be seen for several miles on
either side of the village. The Episcopal church stands almost
on the brow of the hill further to the east. The view of the
Sound and Long Island from the village is extensive and pictur-
esque.

OLD PUT RIDING DOWN THE ROCKS.

This place was made famous by one of those daring exploits
of Gen. Israel Putnam in the Revolution, which so distinguished
him for bravery. Putnam was stationed here with 150 men
and two cannon, which were without drag ropes or horses, to
check the advance of the British, under Tryon, who was making
nn incursion into Connecticut with laOO men. Tryon sent a
party of dragoons, 'supported by infantry, to charge up the hill
and dislodge Putnam's little band. A spirited fn-ing was kept
up until Putnam, seeing it would be useless to make further resist-
ance, ordered his men to retreat into the swamp on the east
beyond the reach of the cavalry. He kept his position until
his men were safely away, and then, just as the British troopers
were riding down upon him from the west, sure of their coveted
prize, Putnam ])ut spurs to his fleet horse and rode at break -neck
speed to the east, down the stone steps that had been con-
structed for the use of the people who ascended the hill to attend
church. When the British came to the spot Putnam had just
left, their horses stopi>ed with fright and tlrc intrepid hero made
good his escape. A volley was fired at him and one bullet passed
through his hat. The General, still unharmed, kept on to
Stamford where he raised a larger force and returned and fell
u[)on Tryon's rear, then on retreat, and captured 38 prisoners
and considerable anmnitfon. The next day he made an ex-
change of pi'isonei-s wifii Tryon, who sent him a new suit of
clothes, including a hat, to tnke the place of the one that had
been pierced with bullets, a compliment for his bravery and hu-

OLD PUT RIDING DOWN THE liOCKS.

n a con*
liles on
s almost
of the
cl pictur-

exploits
ngui;^hcd
[50 men
orses, to
,s making
a sent a
, the hill .
was kept
her resist-
the east
tion until
h troopers
'ir coveted
)reak-neck
been con-
11 to attend
had just
hero made
diet passed
opt on to
1 and fell
prisoners
ide an ex-
lew suit of
that had
•ry and hu-

mm '■" '■

manity. A man who stood near Putnam, says the historian,
when he made the fearful plunge down the rocks, said
he was " cursing the British terribly." The hill at this
plac(i is a hundred feet high and quite steep. A public road
has been cut through the rocks just north o'' where this daring
exploit occurred, leading to Coscob. A little way east of the

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Greenwich depot the railroad passes through the same ledge
and the locahty can be seen from the cars. A few rods east of
the Episcopal church, on the brow of the hill will be noticed a
large, square white house. This stands about ten rods north of
where the stone stops were located. They have been removed
but the place still bears the name of " Put's Hill."

Soon after leaving Greenwich the road crosses Mianus River
upon a draw bridge, forty feet above the water, where the
trains stop in compliance with a la\\ of the State. The village
of Coscob will be noticed a mile north of the railroad.

STAMFORD.

Distance from New York, 35 miles ; Montreal, 411 ; White Mountains, 297;
Lake Memphremagog, 330 ; Quebec, 503. «

Crossing Stamford River the express trains make their first
stop out of New York, at the beautiful town of Stamford, one of
the neatest on the whole line. This place is noted for its wide
and shady streets, elegant private residences and great wealth.
Over 150 people live here who do business in New York, going
and returning by railroad. In summer from 1,000 t6 1,500
New York people come here to spend the warm season. There
are four public parks in the town, and the drives over the sum-
illits north and east of the village, from which an extensive view
is had, are unsurpassed. There are eight churches in the town
—one Congregational, Presbyterian, two Episcopal, Baptist,
Universalist, Methodist, and one Catholic. Considerable busi-
ness is done in manufacturing woolen goods, Olmstead's patent
oiler, friction pulleys, well curbs, extracts of logwood, machinery,
&C. There are three boarding schools for young ladies, and
four for boys in the town. Among the residents are Brown
Brothers, brokers in New York, Iloyt Brothers, leather mer-
chants in New York, Thomas G. Rich, lawyer in New York,
James H. Iloyt, Superintendent of the New York and New
Haven Railroad, Geo. A. Iloyt, Treasurer Pennsylvania Coal
Company, Rev. E. B. Huntington, author of the Huntington Me-

I 1

'iB

NORW\LK.

e ledge
east of
jticed a
north of
removed

us River
lere the
3 village

ntains, 297;

«
heir first
rd, one of

its wide

t wealth.

prk, going

t6 1,500

There

the sum-

isive view

the town
Baptist,
able busi-
d's patent
nachinery,
idies, and
re Brown
ther mer-
esv York,

and New
t'ania Coal
ington Me-

morial, and History of Stamford, and Capt. Wm. Skiddy, an
extensive ship builder. The population of the town is 8,000
and that of the village about 4,000.
|| The next way station is Darien, a small and quiet village,

situated upon a stream that falls into the Sound.

NORWALK.

Distance from New York, 43 miles; Montreal, 403: White Mountains, 289;
Lake Mcmphreuiagog, 322; Quebec, 495.

ilP Norwalk, the second stopping place for express trains leaving

New York, and eight miles from Stamford, is celebrated for its
oysters and hats. Some three to five hundred hands are em-
j)loyed in the oyster business and it is estimated that nearly
$500,000 annually are received for the sale of oysters that are
sent to other parts of the country. There is no other town on
the Sound so extensively engaged in this business. Fair Haven
standing next. The manufacture of hats is quite extensive and
a large number of hands are employed. The straw hat factory
emj)loys about 2000, but not all of them reside in the town.
The shirt factory, employing 400 hands, is the next most ex-
tensive manufacturing establishment. The village at the depot is
known as South Norw.ilk, and has been built since the completion
of the railroad ; the old village, or Norwalk proper, is located
about ". mile and a half north of the railroad and is connected
with the south village by a horse railroad built by LeGrand
Lockwood, a wealthy broker doing business in New York
but residing in Norwalk, of which town he is a native. Mr.
?; Lockwood is building a magnificent residence of stone be-
tween the two villages, which can be seen from the cars. The
streets are wide and the large shade trees and elegant residences
give the appearance of neatness and comfort. There are nine
churches in the two villages. The hills on the west, north and
east, afford excellent sites for dwellings, and on many of them
are extensive and costly edifices. Norwalk was almost totally
destroyed by the British and Tories, who burnt it July 11th

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

1779. The loss, estimated by a committee appointed by (he
General Assembly, exceeded $11 G,000. The population of the
town is upward of 8,000. The Danbury and Norwalk Kailioad
extends from the south village to Danbury, a distance of 24
miles.

Leaving Norwalk the railroad crosses the draw bridge
forty feet above the water, where that sad disaster occurred to
the express train, which run into the open draw, several years
since, killing a large number of passengers. Great precaution
has since been taken to prevent a repetition of such accidents.

Before reaching the next station for express trains, the beau-
tiful towns of Westport, Southport and Fairfield are passed.
North of Southport station is the Pequot swamp, where that
once great and powerful tribe of Indians, in 1G37, made their
last stand against Connecticut and Massachusetts troops. Fair-
field, was burnt July 7, 1779 by Gov. Tryon, who sailed the
previous day from New Haven. This was one of the most de-
structive conflagrations occasioned by the British, during the
Revolution. Two hundred houses were burnt just at night,
by ihe order of Tryon. A thunder storm overspread the
heavens soon after the village was set on fire, and the whole
scene was oneof terrible grandeur.

BRIDGEPORT.

Distance from New York, 59 miles; Montreal, 387; White Mountains, 273;
Lake Memphremagog, 306; Quebec, 479.

Bridgeport, the third town at which express trains stop, and

14 miles from Norwalk, is a thriving city of 17,000 inhabitants.

At the close of the Revolution there were less than a dozen

houses where the city now stands. A horse railroad has been

built from Division Street to Pembroke Lake, east of "Wheeler &

Wilson's sewing machine factory. An extensive business is done

in manufacturing by Wheeler & Wilson and the Howe Sewing

Machine Companies, the New Haven Arms Company, and by

Hotchkiss & Sons, the latter manufacturers of hardware, &c.

BRIDGEPORT.

by tlie
n of the
Railroad
3 of 24

bridge
urrcd to
ral years
•ecaution
iccidtnts.
le bcau-

passc'd.
lere that
ide their
3. Fair-
ailed the
most de-
ring the
at night,
•ead the
le whole

itains, 273;

stop, and
habitants,
a dozen
has been
Vheeler &
ess is done
e Sewing
jy, and by
ware, &c.

There are 15 churches in the city. The South church, which
was built in 18G1, will seat 1,000 persons, and its spire is 209
feet high.

Washington Park in East Bridgeport, contains several acres
and has a grove of native trees. Sea Side Park, situated on
the beach south of the city, which has just been laid out at a
cost of $20,000 and containing IG acres of land, will be one of
the finest pleasure resorts in the country. The beach is claimed
to be the finest on the Sound and ample accommodations for
bathing have been fitted up.

Elias Howe, the inventor of Howe's sewing machine, and the
sewing machine needle, purchased P. T. Barnum's grounds at
Iranistan, after his dwelling burnt, several years since, and is
about to build a magnificent residence. Mr. Barnum's home-
stead, Lindencroft, is situated a short distance west of Bridge-
port, in the town of Fairfield.

Clia*. S. Stratton, better known as Gen. Tom Thumb, was
born in Bridgeport Jan. 4, 1832. He weighed nine pounds at
birth, and continued to grow until seven months old, when, from
some unexplained cause, he ceased to increase in size and
weight. His hight is 28 inches. In 1844 he visited P^urope
and has had the honor of appearing before nearly all the
crowned heads of the old world. In 18G3 he was married to
Miss Lavinia Warren, a dwarf of about his own stature. The
parents of the General have had two other children who have
reached the usual hight. ^^ • " •'

The Naugatuck Railroad extending to Winsted, G2 miles, and
the Housatonic, extending to Pittsfield, 110 miles, intersect the
New York and New Haven Railroad, the former at this place,
and the latter at Naugatuck Junction, east of Housatonic River.
The trains on this road run into Bridgeport.

Stratford, about four miles from Bridgeport, is a pleasant,
rural village. The principal street, about one mile in length, i-^
ornamented with line shade trees. Gen. Wooster, killed at
Ridgefield in the Revolution, was a native of this town.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

MILFORD. SOLDIEUS' MONUMENT.

Mllford, 05 miles from New York and 8 from Bridgeport, is a
quiet but beautiful town. It contains some elegant private resi-
dences, and the large elms which line the principal streets give
the place a pleasant and ancient appearance. In Jan. 1777 two
hundred American soldiers in a sick and dying condition, were
brought from a British j)rison ship at New York, and suddenly cast
on shore near this place. They were cared for by the inhabitants
of the village, but in less than a month 46 of them died and
were buried in one common grave. NTpir the railroad, in the
old cemetery, east of the depot, a freestone monument, 30 feet
high, has been erected to their memovy. It can be seen from
the cars, north of the track.

r ■

WEST ROCK. THE JUDGES* CAVE.

As the traveler approaches New Haven from New York, he
will notice West Rock, to the north, which is from three to four
hundred feet high. The village of Westville is situated at its
base and the church spires are seen from the cars. This is

ol
a|

it
fj

EAST ROCK.

ort, is a
itc resi-
3ts give
(77 two
>n, were
;nly cast
labitants '
lied and
[, in the
30 feet
sen from

}V York, he
irec to four
lated at its
s. This is

little more than two miles from the city of Now Haven. On
the summit of West Rock is the celebrated Judges' Cave, where
the regicides, Ooffe and Whalley, two of the judges who con-
demned King Charles T, concealed themselves ^Yhen pursued by
the King's officers. It is not a cave, strictly speaking, but an
aperture in the rocks, which afforded shelter to the nigicides.
Ui)on the rocks are engraved these words, " Opposition to tyrants
is obedience to God." Goffe and Whalley, previous to their
coneealmcmt on West Rock, resided in New Haven, but their
arrest being ordered, they were obliged to flee from the city.

EAST ROCK.

East Rock, two miles east of West Rock, and a mile north east
of New Haven, is frequently visited. It is about the same hight
as West Rock and the view of New Haven and the Sound from
its summit is grand and beautiful. A better view of East Rock
from the cars is had after the train leaves New Haven for Hai't
ford and Springfield, a short distance out of the city.

■ I

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

NEW HAVEN.

Distance from New York, 74 miles; Montrcnl, 372; White Mountains, 2.J8;
Lake Menij)iii(!n]ii«og, 21)1; Qucbee, 401.

On ftpproaching New IliivcMi tht) tourist will observe the
church spires on the Public Scjuare, the City Hall and other
public builrlings on the left. To the ri<ijht is Long "Wharf, and
the Light House in the distance. Ciiapel Street, on which a
larger part of the mercantile business is done, passes over the
railroad at the north end of the depot. To reach the Public
Square and the College buildings, take Chapel Street and a
walk of five minutes, to the Avest, will bring you to them,
located in the best part of the city. The magnirtcent elms, over-
arching the walks, and the general neatness of the city, at
once attract the attention of the visitor, leaving an agreeable
impression of the place upon his mind.

New Haven was settled in 1G38, by a company of exiled
Englishmen from London and vicinity, who had been merchants,
and it is said that this was the most wealthy colony that had
come to this country. The city was originally laid out in a plot
half a mile square. It is beautifully situated on an extensive
plain at the head of the bay which extends four miles in front
the Sound. North of the city are high lands overlooking it and
the Sound, the most prominent of which are East and Wt. t
Rocks. Its public squares and ancient elms add greatly to
the beauty of the city, giving it an appearance unlike any other
place in this country, and as one walks underneath those living
arches of green it is suggested that New Haven is truly entitled
to the name of " Elm City," hy which it is familiarly known.

The view in Temple Street, which extends through the
Public Square, north and south, is particularly striking. For a
long distance the broad elms ibrra a magnificent arch, more per-
fect and beautiful than could be made by the hand of man.
The view selected for illustration by the artist is from the center
of the Green, looking north.

NEW IIAVTiN".

ins. 238;

ve the

I other

irf, atul

diich a

ver the
PubUc

t and a •

) them,

as, over-
city, at

greeable

)f exiled
erchants,
that iiad
in a plot
ixtensive
s in froirt
ing it and
nd We:.t
greatly to
any other
ose living
ly entitled
known,
rough the
For a
more per-
i of man.
. the center

kg-

TEMPLE STREET, NEW HAVEN, CONN.

The Public Square, or Green, as it is frequently called,
situated between Chapel and Elm Streets on the south and
north, and College and Church Stre(>ts on the west and east,
contains 16 acres. Temple Street extends through it from north
to south, and the elms are so large that a complete arch is formed
in the center. In this Square on the west side of Temple Street
are Trinity, Center and North churches. Farther west is the
State House, built in the Grecian Doric style. TImb basement is
cased witli Sing Sing marble and the walls above are stuccoed.
The Legislature holds sessions here in the even years. Its

} T

TIIK CONNKCTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

■I

tllli'

'if J

iliiiii

other sessions arc held at Hartford, where nil of the State
archives are kept.

Yale College, fronting this square ^n the west and occupying
fourteen buildings, iu one of the leading, if not the best, educa-
tional institutions in this country. It was founded in 1700, and
in 1702 it held its first commencement at Say brook. It was
removed to New Haven in 1716, and received its name from
Elihu Yale, one of its most liberal patrons, who was born in
New Haven, and afterwards emigrating to the East Indies*
became Governor of Fort George. Alumni Hall, built of Port-
land freestone, at a cost of $27,000, is a fine structure. The
first floor is occupied by. meeting* of graduates and around this
room are hung portraits of distinguished men, educated in the
College, and others who have contributed to its endowment.
The upper story is used by the two College societies. But the
most magnificent building connected with the College is the one
built by Mr. Augustus R. Street of New Haven, at a cost of
not less than $150,000, which is to be used as a depository and
school of fine arts. The historical paintings of the great battles
in the Revolution, by Col. John Trumbull, son of the Governor
of Connecticut during the war for Independence and an aid to
Gen. Washington, which for many years have been kept in
Trumbull Gallery, are to be removed to this building. These
are the original paintings, and copies of them are now in the
rotunda of the National Capitol. Trumbull Gallery was erect-
ed over the spot where Col. Trumbull was buried.
V Of the public buildings of which New Haven may feel proud
is the City Hall, situated on Church Street, fronting the Square
on the east. It was completed in 1862, at a cost of $100,000.
Henry Austin of New Haven was its architect, and the contract-
ors for building it were Perkins & Chatfield of the same city.
The building is of the Continental Gothic style, 91 feet front by
137 feet deepi It was built of Portland and Nova Scotia stone,
laid alternately in courses. The tower is built of stone, 84 feet
from the ground, surmounted by a spire 66 feet, making the

NEW IIAVEX.

wliolr lii<i;lit 150 fcot. Tlio spirn is slatfd and contai: a firo
alarrr* od! wi'igliiii<; 0,117 pouiuls, four illuraiimted clock dials*
facli ncven ijct in diameter, and an observatory or watch tower.
The building is occupied by oiriccfl, city court, common council
chamber, &c. Mr. Austin's plans were adopted after several
others had been examined, and the building is creditable to his
taste and skill as an architect.

There are nearly 40 churches in the city and the population
is about 50,000. In 1800 the population was only a little ovef
5,000. A larn;e variety of manufacturing is done in the city,
but the most imjwrtant is that of carriages. There are between
40 and 50 firms engaged in the business.

Here have lived and died some of our country's most eminent
men. In the cemetery on Grove Street are the graves of Roger
Sherman, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
Noah Webster, author of Webster's Dictionary and other books,
Ezra Stiles and Timothy Dwight, Presidents of Yale College,
Pierpont Edwai'ds, Chief Justice of Connecticut, James Ilih-
house, fifty years treasurer of Yale College and sixteen years
United States Senator from Connecticut, Timothy Pitkin, the
historian and United States Senator, Chauncey A. Goodrich —
" Peter Parley," Margaret Arnold, wife of the traitor, Benedict
Arnold, Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin and many
others more or less distinguished in various walks of life. Col.
John Dixwell, one of the judges who condemned King Charles
I, lived in New Haven, assuming the name of James Davids.
He died at the age of 82 and was buried in the rear of Center
church, on the Public Square, where a monument has recently
been erected to his memory by his descendants.

James Hillhouse, who for so long a time was treasurer of Yale
College and to whom New Haven is indebted for its noble elms,
was very tall and striking in personal appearance. His com-
plexion was so swarthy that some thought he had Indian bl(X)d
in )iis veins. He frequently favored in a humorous way this
idea. While a member of the United States Senate, a southern

! f

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

«:■

fl!

• It

ill

111

man challenged him for remarks made in debate. He accepted
it, but said as the choice of weapons fell to hhn he should select
tomahawks / The duel was not fought. One day while stand-
ing on the steps of the Capitol, a drove of donkeys were passing,
on their way from Connecticut, where they were raised, to the
South. Randolph, who was with him said, " there are some of
your constituents." " Yes," replied Hillhouse, " they are go-
irtg to be schoolmasters in Virginia."

New Haven formerly had considerable direct trade with for-
eign countries, and long wharf, commencing at the foot of Fleet
Street and extending into the harbor to the channel, 3,943 feet,
is thf longest wharf in this country.

THE NEW HAVEN nO-^jPL, NEW HAVEN, CONN.

The New Haven Hotel, Mr S. W. Allis, Proprietor, is situ-
ated on the corner of Chapel and Church Streets, within five
minutes walk of the depot. It fronts on the Public Square, and
as it is provided with all the modern conveniences, bath rooms,
&c., vih^itors find it a pleasant place of resort. During the sum-
mer, stages run from the Hotel to Double Beach and Branford
Point, 7 miles distant, and to Savin Hock, 4 miles west of tlie
city

THE SHORE HOUSES.

Within a short distance of New Haven are several spacious
and well kept Hotels, pleasantly situated along the beach, that
liave become favorite places of resort during the summer months
with those who are fond of fishing, sailing and bathing.

The nearest one to New Haven is Savin Rock, four miles
south west of the city, and a mile from West Haven depot, on
the New York and New Haven Railroad. Onmibuses durinj;
the summer run hourly fi-om New Haven to the Rock House.
It is a delightful spot, atfording a magnificent viev/ of the Sound,
and the beach is among the best bathing places found on the
Connecticut shore. The Hotel will accommodate one hundred

select
stand-
issing,
to the
me of
ire go-

th for-
f Fleet
43 feet,

is situ-
hin five
are, and
I rooms,
he sum-
iranford
t of the

spacious
;ach, that
months

)ur miles
ilt'pot, on
^s during
House,
le So\uid,
id on the
hundred

o
h

ifli

THE COXNECTICITT VALLEY GUIDE.

I'll

:ili

»;:!

and thirty guests, and communication can bo had with all parts
of the country by telegraph, the lines having been extended to
it from New Haven. The proprietors are Burgess &, Ren-
shaw, well known in 'leir profession.

The Branford Point House, kept by D. M. King, is seven
miles from New Haven, east of the city, and is reached by cars
on the New London and New Haven Railroad, which runs
within a mile of the Hotel, or by 8t![;ges from New Haven in the
summer. It will accommodate two h mdred guests and has long
been a favorite resort with persons residing in all parts of the
country, from the interior of New England to the far West.

The Double Beach House, and several others of less capacity,
have their peculiar attractions and many friends, and nowliere
can be found better facilities for recreation tlian along the shore
of Long Island Sound. ^^ . . ,, ,

H'lll '

GOING NORTH.

Leaving the " City of Elms," the train passes under Chapel
Street, across the stone bridge over Mill River, past East Rock
to the left and the broad salt meadows to the right, through the
village of North Haven, immediately beyond which the scenery
is of no particular interest, the surface of the country being level
and the soil light and sandy.

WALLING FORD. THE AVALLINGFORD COMMUNITY.

Twelve miles from New Haven, east of the railroad, will be
noticed the village of Wallingf|rd, situated on a commanding
eminence. Express trains do not stop lere. Quite an exten-
sive business is done in manufacturing, and among some of the
more important establishments are : Hall, Elton <fc Co., manu-
facturers of German Silver ware ; Simpson & Co., German
Silver spoons ; Hall, Miller & Co., buttons ; Albata Plate Co., &c.

Lyman Hall, one of the signers of the Declaration of Inde*
pendence, was a native of Wallingford. After graduating at
Yale he went to Georgia, where he established himself as a

WALLINGFORD. — THE WALLINGF'OED COMMUNITY. 43

11 parts
Tided to
fc Ren-

s seven
by cars
d\ runs
in in the
has long
s of the
^est.

opacity,
nowhere
he shore

Chapel
1st Rock
ough the

scenery
nig level

TY.

1, will be
imanding
in exten-
ne of the
o., manu-

German
e Co., &c.

of Inde-
hiating at

self as a

physician. Taking an active part in colonial affairs he was
chosen to the General Congress in 1775, and afterwards Gover-
nor of Georgia. He died in 1790 and was buried in his adopted
State. Just previous to the rebellion Georgia made Connecti-
cut a present of his tombstones and they were taken to Wulling-
ford and deposited in the cemetery south of the depot.

Situated on the slope of " Mount T«m," an eminence three-
fourths of a mile west of Walhngford Station, is a branch of
Oneida Commtmitv in Central New York, with which it holds a
common interest. The Wallingford Society was organized in
1851 with a capital of $5,500. Its present capital is $30,625.
The resident members average in number 45.

The primary object of the Community, it is claimed, is the
religious culture of its members in accordance with what they
conceive to be the spirit and doctrines of the New Testament.
They believe in the power of Christianity to save individuals
from all sin, from whence they are called Perfectionists. Their
social system includes full Communion of property, or holding
" all things in common," like that of the day of Pentecost.

The domain comprises 228 acres, of which 30 are in orchards,
vineyards and small fruits. The strawberry crop of 1865, on
live and two-fiflhs acres amounted tq 850 bushels, worth $5,300.
The income of this Community, like that at Oneida, was formerly
chiefly derived from manufactures, but the last two years its
mechanical industry has been limited to printing. A weekly
paper called " The Circular,'' devoted to Christian Socialism
and general intelligence, is published here, the type setting, fold-
ing, mailing, book-keeping, and in part the editing being done by
women. Term^ free ; or to those who choose to pay for it $1,00
per year.

A new building for publishing and educational purposes was
erected in 1865, at a cost of $3,500. Three young men of the
Community have been maintained as students in the legal and
medical departments of Yale College.

I f im^i

TUE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

pill

ii; ii
ii

m I

This Community, being especially devoted to educational and
publishing interests, is not at present self-supporting, but depends
in part lor its maintenance on d subsidy from Oneida Commu-
nity, and on such contributions as are made by outside friends
for the support of a free paper.

The cost of food and clothing during 1865, per individual,
was $2.40 per week, or thirty-four cents per day, not including
the ordinary household labor in preparing the articles consumed.

THE HANGING HILLS.

The tourist, while near Wallingford, will observe the Hang-
ing Hills, or Sentinels of the Valley, west of Meriden. These
peaks, which seem to rise abruptly to considerable hight, are the
most elevated points of land in the State, and are the first objects
seen by sailors coming in to Sandy Hook, below New York.
A road has been constructed through a narrow glen in these
hills, from Meriden to Berlin, known as Cat Hole Pass, which
is much frequented by summer tourists and neighboring residents.

MERIDEN.

Distance from New York, 92 miles; Montreal, 354; White Mountains, 240 ;
* . Lake Memphremagog, 2C2; Quebec, 446.

Meriden, where all express trains stop, is midway between

New Haven and Hartford, it being just 18 miles to either place.

It has a population of 10,000 and is one of the most active and

prosperous .towns in the State. From 1850 to 1860 it showed

a greater proportionate increase in population than any other

town in Connecticut. There is little or no inherited wealth in

the town although the assessments now amount to between four

and five millions. Twenty years ago there was no one residing

in the town who was worth over $40,000. At the present time

there are more than a dozen residents whose property is valued

at from $100,000 to half a million each, while there are others

who have accumula^d large estates by their foresight and

industry. Manufacturing is the principal business of the town,

,.1

„*)

.Jf.

•iL

-'■?■

MOUNT LAMEirrATION.

nal and

lepends

^Jommu-

frieiids

lividual,
iicluding
nsumed.

e Hang-
, These
t, are the
St objects
2W York,
in these
ss, which
residents.

ntain3, 240 ;

' between
Iher place,
ctive and
it showed
any other
wealth in
ween four
le residing
■esent time
r is valued
are others
Bsight and
the town,

there being fifty different establishments, and a large variety of
goods are made there and sent to all parts of the country. The
most extensive concern is that of the Meriden Britannia Com-
pany, whose factory stands east of the railroad and near the
depot. The building is 46G feet long, 40 feet wide and three
stories high. In addition are three buildings in the rear, each
one hundred feet long.^ The company employ 400 hands and
iiii'Uide in their manufactures a large variety of plated table
ware. A large business is done in the town in manufacturing
ivory piano keys, ivory combs, cutlery, door knobs, lamp trim-
mings, balinoral skirts, hardware, castings, &c. The old town,
where the first settlement was made, i^ delightfully situated
( M on the hill, east of the depot and the large square brick building,
standing at the head of the street is the Town Hall. That
part of the village on the hill is known as Meriden and that at

% the depot and west of it, as West Meriden. Each village has a
separate post office. There are nine churches in the town —
three Congregational, two Baptist, ah Episcopal, Methodist,
Universalist, and Catholic. The State Reform School, a large
brick building, will be noticed west of the railroad, and about a

% mile north of the depot.

MOUNT LAMENTATION.

East of Meriden is a range of mountains similar to the Hang-
ing Hills on the west of the town, known as Mount Lamenta-
tion, a not very poetical name, but having its origin, it is said,
in some sad local tradition. Continuing north the next stopping
place for express trains is,

BERLIN JUNCTION.

The village of Berlin is situated on a hill east of the railroad,
a little way south of the depot. From this place are two branch
railroads, one cxtending^ north-west to New Britain two and a
half miles distant, and the other south-east, ten miles, to Middle-
town on the Connecticut. ,.

[f 7

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

ililii'ili!!

rill,,.

NEW BRITAIN.

The church spires of the town can be seen from Berlin Junc-
tion. This is a thriving and enterprising place, with a popula-
tion of 6,000 and is pleasantly situated. The principal business
is that of manufacturing, and among the most prominent are
Russell & Erwin Manufacturing Company — locks and builders'
hardware ; Stanley Rule and Level Company — rules, levels,
&c. ; Stanley works — bolts, hinges, &c.; New Britain Knitting
Company — shirts and drawers ; P. & F. Corbin — cabinet hard-
ware ; North & Judd Manufacturing Company — harness and
saddlery hardware ; Landers, Frary & Clark — builders' hard-
ware, &c. ; New Britain Lock C«mpany ; North, Stanley &
Co. — hooks and eyes ; Churchill, Dana & Co. — jewelry ; Butler
& Gross — saddlery hardware ; Judd & Blakeslee — sash fastener
and curtain fixtures ; Malleable Iron Works, &c. The manu-
facturing is all done by steam power and has been thus far suc-
cessfully conducted.

The village is supplied with water brought two and a half
miles, from Shuttle Meadow Lake. The fountain on the Green
is said to be the largest in the country and will throw a stream
to the hightof 140 feet.

The State Normal School is located in New Britain and has
from eighty to a hundred pupils.

MIDDLETOWN.

Middletown, although ten miles from the main line of travel,
is one of the most desirable places for a summer residence in
Connecticut. The streets are broad, and the private residences
are large and elegant. The city is situated on a considerable
eminence, sloping eastward to the river, and from High Street
which extends north and south, a fine view is had of the river
and the region lying beyond. On this street is located Wcs-
leyan University, a Methodist institution, founded in 1831.
The buildings are finely situated on the west side of the street,
in front of which is a large shaded lawn. The eminence on

TUB MCDONOUGH HOUSE.

1 Junc-
popula-
»usines3
ent are
milders'
, levels,
knitting
et hard-
ess and
rs' hard-
tanley &
; Butler
fastener
e manu-
5 far suc-

d a half
he Green
a stream

a and has

of travel,
isidence in
residences
nsiderable
igh Street

the river
;ated Wes-

in 1831.

the street,
minence on

which the University stands is 160 feet above the river. The
College buildings were originally bulk for and occupied by a
military school, under Capt. Alden Partridge, who afterwards
established a similar institution at Norwich, Vt.

Main Street lies below High Street, ruiming parallel with it,
and is a short distance from the river. The street is broad and
lias quite an ancient appearance. The Berkley Divinity School,
an Episcopal institution, is located on tHi comer of Main and
Washington Streets. Middletown is 34 miles from the Sound,
at the head of ship navigation, and 15 miles from Hartford.
During the summer many New York people have resided in the
town, and as the drives and scenery are good, and the place easy
of access, either by steamboat or railroad, \t will continue to
have many admirers. The population is about 10,000.

There are also several large manufacturing establishments in
the town and among them are : The Russell Manufacturing
Company — rubber goods, webbings, &c. ; The Hubbard Hard-
ware Company ; Savage Fire Anns Manufacturing Company ;
two sewing machine manufactories, &c. Britannia ware, Doug-
las pumps, files, &c., are also extensively made.

THE MC DONOUGH HOUSE.

This house, kept by Dickinson & Craig, is four stories high
and will accommodate 150 guests. It is situated at the comer

Hf T"

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

of Main and Court Streets. Tlie rooms are large and pleasant
and it is a favorite place with summer tourists.

THE PORTLAND QUARRIES.

Opposite Middletovvn are the famous Portland freestone quar-
ries — the most extensive in the world. They are operated by
the Middlesex Company, Brainard & Co., and Shaler & Hall.
They employ from GOO to 800 hands, 100 horses and 200 oxen, in
gQtting out tiie stone, and 40 schooners in freighting it to various
coast cities from East})ort to New Orleans. In addition large
quantities are sent to the interior by railroad. The quality of this
stone is much superior to that found at any other quarry. It
covers a circuit of ^alf a mile and is suppgsed to be 500 feet in
thickness. It is claimed by ge< ^ists that underneath the stone
is a strata of coal, but this statement has not yet been verified,
although excavations have been made 150 feet below the bed of the
river where some of the best stone for building material is found.

!i^!

HARTFORD.

Distance from New York, 110 miles; Montreal, 336; White Mountain8,222; Lake
Mctni)hreraagog, 2;")5 ; Quebec, 428.

A ride of a few miles from Berlin Junction brings you within
sight of the tall spires of Hartford. East of the railroad, in the
suburbs of the <?ity, will be noticed the Sharps Rifle Factory,
where are employed from GOO to 700 hands. Still further north
and on the same side of the railroad is Trinity College, standing
on an eminence and fronting the east. Adjoining the College
grounds on Hie north, and south of the depot and Asylum Street,
is the Park, w'liich was purchased and laid out by the city a few
years since at a cost of over $270,000. It contains- 30 acres
and in addition to this are 15 acres on the south belonging to
the College, wliich are open in connection with the Park, to the
public. Park River forms the northern boundary of the Park I
and is crossed by several stone bridges, and that at the junction
of Ford and Pearl Streets, in sight of the depot, built of Port'

i "

m ''

1 ^'

1 ''

m fe

HARTFORD.

land freestone, is a beautiful structure. The River affords an
excellent place for skating in winter. A speaker's stand, built
of atone, will be seen to the right and south of the bridge, from
which public addresses are sometimes delivered. Out-door
concerts are also given here at stated periods in summer. The
grounds are neatly and tastefully laid out, and the whole is alike
creditable to the wisdom and liberality of the people of the city.

Hartford has a population of 40,000. In 1800 it was only a
little piore than 5,000 and up to 1840 it had reached only a
little over 12,000. Within the last ten or fifteen years
new enterprises have sprung up and its growth has been quite
rapid, and at the present time there are few places of its size
tliiit have so much real and lasting prosperity. Statistics ehow
that it has more wealth in jjroportion to its inhabitants than any
other city in this country. It has a large mercantile and manu-
facturing business, but it is chiefly known abroad on account of its
numerous insurance companies. In this respect it is the lead-
ing city in the country. There are no less than eighteen
insurance companies in operation, with a capital of $18,000,000,
and all of them are doing a large and successful business. Of
this number eleven are devoted to fire, six to life and one to
accident insurance. The latter is the first of its kind in the
country. Its moneyed institutions stand equally high in public
estimation although confined to a more limited sphere of action.
There are twelve banks of issue with a capital of $8,000,000,
and four savings institutions.

In Colonial times, Hartford todk a leading position, and then
as w(;ll as now Avas a placf of no small consequence. There
are still many things in existence in the city that are of histori-
cal interest, especially to those having a taste for the rare and
curious belonging to other days. No one passing through the
city, with time at his command, should fail of spending a
few days in visiting its many interesting localities. He could not
go away without feeling doubly paid for his time and trouble.
3

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Although a severe gale in IS/iO blew down the famous Charter
Oak, pieces of it are preserved, and at the State House in the
office of the Secretary of State, is tlie identical charter, framed
in the wood of the tree that once concealed it ihmi Sir Edmund
Andros, the first Governor-general of New England, who in
1686 attempted to wrest it from the people of Connecticul.
The demand for building lots has greatly changed the old Wyl-
lys place, where the Charter Oak stood, situated east of Main
Street, in the southern part of the city, but a marble slab at the
side of the walk in Charter Oak Place, hvs been placed over
the spot where the old tree took root and spread its noble
branches.

The State House, which in point of beauty is hardly worthy
of Connecticut, was built in 1794. A new one would have
taken its place some years since if the Legislature held all its
sessions here. In the State Library are preserved many letters
from the kings of England during Colonial times to the Gov-
ernors in Connecticut. The oldest one was written in 1666
and bears upon it the autograph of Ch.'»rles H. In the Senate
Chamber is the Governor's chair that was made of wood
from the Charter Oak. It is handsomely carved and inlaid, and
upon it is the State Coat of Arms. Here is a full length, origi-
nal painting of Washington by Stewart. Here also hang the
portraits of twenty-four governors, from the John Winthrop of
Colonial days to Gen. Hawley. Oliver "VVolcott, Sr., whose
portrait is among the number, was one of the signers of the Dec-
laration of Independence, and afterward Secretary of the
Treasury during Washington's and John Adairs' administrations.
In this chamber was held the famous Hartford Convention.

In the Historical Rooms in Wadsworth Athenajum, will be
found some rare relics of olden times. Among them, Elder
Wm. Brewster's chest, that came over with him in the May-
flower; Miles Standish's dinner pot; Benedict Arnold's watch;
Gen. Israel Putnam's tavern sign and the sword carried by him
at Bunker Hill ; a link of the chain stretched across the Hudson

HARTFORD.

Charter
• in the
framed
^Ldmund
who in
nectieut.
•Id Wyl-
)f Main
ib at the

•

iced over
its noble

y worthy
lid have
;ld all its
tny letters
the Cov-
in 1666
le Senate
of wood
nlaid, and
th, origi-
hang the
throp of
., whose
the Dec-
f of the
istrations.
ntion.
will be
|era, Elder
the May-
tl's watch;
d by him
le Hudson

at West Point, in the Revolution ; bomb-shells that were thrown
into Stonington during the last war ; an arm chair made in the
13th century ; the vest and shirt of Col. Ledyard, commander of
Fort Griswold when surrendered to tlie British Sept. G, 1781,
and who waa massacred after the surrender ; Nathan Hale's
powder horn, made by him during his college vacations ; a mor-
tar captured at the city of Mexico ; the first telegraph message
sent in this country, between Washington and Baltimore; an old
drum used at Fannington to call the people to church ; Dr. Rob-
bins' collection of bibles, one of them printed in 1478.

But of all the rare and curious things found here none are
of more interest by way of showing the rapid development of
the country, than the Httle six by nine mail bag used in 1775,
to carry the mail between Hartford, Middletown and New
Haven.

The first settlement made in Hartford was by the Dutch in
1633, who landed on the point of land at the junction of Park
River with the Connecticut, where they built a Fort. One of
the bricks used in its construction is now in the Historical
Rooms. This ^lace is still known as Dutch Point. The first
Enghsh settlement was made in 1635, the settlers coming from
Cambridge, Mass. The first meeting house in Connecticut was
built at Hartford in 1638, and some of its timbers are said to
have been used in the construction of the present Center Con-
gregational Church. Thomas Green established the Connecti-
cut Courant in October, 1764, the first paper and printing office
in Hartford, and John I. Wells received in 1819 a patent for the
first lever printing press. Dr. A. Kinsley, invented the first
steam-engine ever made, in 1797-9, and set it running in Main
Street. He also invented the first brick pressing machine.
The "Mansion House" on Kinsley Street, built in 1796 ia
probably the oldest house in this country, built of pressed bricks
that were made here.

Main Street, one of the finest in any New England city
extending from north to south, is two miles in length. The

TIIK CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

retail tnide is principally done Iktp. State Street, extending
cast I'rom ]\Iain Street to the River is occupied by these doing
a wholesale businei*< iu groceries, dye Btufl's, wool, tobacco,
leather and iron. Hartford is one of the largest markets for
wool and tobacco of any city in New England. An extensive
wholesale trade is done on Asylum Street in dry goods.

The factory built by Col. Samuel Colt, for the manufacture
of his celebrated revolvers was one of the largest enterprises
ever undertaken. Since Colonel Colt's diath it has been con-
ducted by a eom]>any, of which Brig. Gen. Franklin is new
President. Eniploynient is given to eight hundred hands;
The front buililing was bumt in 18G4, but it was rebuilt in
180G. The establishment is situated in the south-east part of
the city, near the Connecticut, and is inclosed by a dyke, fifty
feet broad at the top and 8,G98 feet in length. It incloses 23
acres of land, and cost over $80,000. Col. Colt assumed the
res])onsibility and built the dyke at liis own expense, but the
city afterward i)aid part of the cost.

Few men had so determined a purpose, and were so hard to
be swerved from their line of policy as Col. CoK. Starting as
a j)oor boy, he worked his way to fame and wealth, and when
he died he left an immense fortune to his wife and young son.
His dwelling, grounds and extensive green house on Wethers-
field Avenue, Avhich overlook the Armory, built by himself,
surpass anything in the city. Within the dyke enclosure is a
colony of Swiss, brought to this country by Col. Colt to manu-
facture willow ware, the material for which is grown along the
dyke.

Of the public institutions may be mentioned the Wadsworth
Athenieum, Trinity College, The Connecticut Theological In-
stitute, Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Retreat for the Insane and
Hartford Hospital. The Athenaeum, was erected by contribu-
tions from citizens of Hartford, at a cost of $52,000. It was
constructed of granite and is 80 by 100 feet In this building

HARTFORD.

ftre tlio Connecticut Historical Room?, Young Men's Institute,
uud the Watkinson Library. Also rooms cUnoted to imintiupja
and statu."..". The Watkinson Library is oiu; of rclirencc and
no book can be taken from it <'xc<|)t on tiic! written couHcnt of
the trustees. It was founded by David Watkinson, who died
Dec. IS, lHr)7, aged 80 years, h-avin;; $10(1,000 for the pur-
pose of establish inj^f the library. Kare wcuks were purchased
in Europe, and the library was first opened to the j)ublic in the
early part of 18GG. The Young Men's Institute contains
13,000 volumes which can be taken from the rooms. The
Statuary Room on the first floor contains the nuirbles and casts
made by Edward S. Bartholomew, a native of Hartford, who
died abroad in 18i>8, aged 3G years, after having gained an
enviable reputation as a sculptor. The Picture Gallery con-
tains about 150 elegant paintings, includin*^ Trumbull's famous
battle pieces, illustrating scenes in the Revolution. An admis-
sion fee is charged to the Statuary Room and Picture Gallery.
The Historical Rooms are open each day, free to the j)ublic and
the janitor m attendance will point out to the visitor the more
rare and curious specimens of antiquity. The Deaf and Dumb
Asylum, located on Asylum Street, west of the depot is the
oldest institution of its kind in this country, bavin^ been incor-
porated in 1816. The late Rev. T. IL Gallaudet, LL.D. vis-
ited Europe for the purpose of ascertaining the best method of
imparting instruction to the deaf and dumb, and brought with
him on his return M. Laurent Clerc, a deaf mute who had been
a successful teacher in Paris, and who acted as an assistant to
Mr. Gallaudet. It was opened with seven deaf mutes as
pupils, and the number has since been increased to 275. The
main building was erected in 1820 and is 130 by 50 feet, four
stories high. The Retreat for the Insane was opened in 1824.
It is situated in the southern part of the city, on Washington
Street, on a gentle elevation commanding an extensive view of
the city, the river and the valley beyond. The grounds con-

TUB CONNECTICUT YXLijU^V GUIDE.

IIIMiji.

:A ; I:

tain 17 acres and are tiistefully ornamented with walks and
shade trees. During the 40 years of its existence there have
been admitted to it some 4,000 patients, more than half of whom
were discharged as cured. Tlie average number of patients is
about 150. Tho Hartford Hospital was dedicated in 1859.
The main building is 72 by 48 i'eet, three stories high, with
a wing 113 by 30 feet. It is built of Portland stone, and cost,
including grounds, over $48,000. Any person paying $1,000
at one time will be entitled to a free bed.

There are 24 churches in the city — seven Congregational,
four Episcopal, three Methodist, two Presbyterian, two Baptist,
two Catholics, and one each of Unitarian and Universalist,
Second Advents and Tsraehte.

The Hartford aifd Wethcrsfield Horse Railroad Company's

tracks extend from Spring Grove Cemetery through Main

Street, to Wethcrsfield, a distance of seven miles, and from the

Connecticut River west two miles, through State and Asylum

Streets.

Hartford has a paid fire department with four steam fire

engines. It is a significant fact that since the paid system went
into operation there has not been as many fires as formerly.
The city is supplied with water from the Connecticut River,
the reservoir being located on Garden Street, west of the depot.
"Within ten years the daily consumption of water has increased
from less than half a million gallons to about two millions.
Owing to the great increased demand the commissioners are
procuring a supply from Trout Brook, five miles west of
the city. Th'e fall from Trout Brook to foot of State Street is
210 feet.

Of the persons who have gained distinction in various pur-
suits, who reside in Hartford, may be mentioned Mrs. Harriet
Beecher Stowe, Prof. Stowe, Rev. Dr. Bushnell, Rev. Dr.
Hawes, Rev. Dr. Burton, Hon. Cideon Welles, U. S. Senator
James Dixon, Hon. Isaac Toucey, Ex-Gov. Thos. H. Seymour,
Hon. Henry C. Demming, Brevet Major Gen. Joseph R.

HARTFORD.

Hawley, now Governor of the State, and Rose Terry, contribu-
tor to the periodical hterature of the country. Gail H?\milton
was formerly a teacher in the public schools in this city.

Mrs. Sigouniey, whose death occurred in 18G5, resided for
many years in the dwelling on the south side of Asylum Street,
and next to the railroad. It will be observed a few rods south
of the depot. It is now owned by Hon. Julius Cathn. She
resided several years before her death in a cottage on High
Street. Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe resides on Sigourney
Street in the west part of the city.

The repair shops of the New Haven, Hartford and Spring-
field Railroad, are located at this place, a short distance south
of the depot. The passenger depot, occupied jointly by the
>«'ew Haven, Hartford and Springfield and the Providence,
Hartford and Fishkill Railroads at this place is one of the
finest in the country. It was built of Portland freestone, and
is a large and substantial building.

THE ALLYN HOUSE.

Hartford has several hotels, the largest and most elegant of
which is the Allyn House, situated at the corner of Asylum and

r ■"

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Trumbull Streets. It wps erected in 1857 at a cost of $125,-
000. It is four stories higii, with a front of 155 feet on Asylum
Street, and 105 on Trumbull. The front is built of Portland
stone and altogether is not surpassed by any hotel in New Eng-
land. The first floor of the building is occupied by stores, and
the remainder is used for hotel purposes. There are accommo-
dations for nearly 300 guests. Everything connected with it is
neatly and conveniently arranged, and no pains have been
spared to make this a first class hotel in eveiy respect. The
proprietor, Mr. R. J. Allyn, is courteous and obhging, and
makes the stranger at once ^el at home.

Adjoining the Allyn House, on the west, and connected with
it by a private entrance, is Allyn Hall, one of the largest and
finest in Connecticut. It will seat 1,500 people.

The streets of the city are McAdamized, and the drives
through and about it are unsurpasst Among them may be
mentioned, — to Tumble Down Brook, eight miles west by Al-
bany road ; to Talcott Mountain, nine miles west ; to West
Hartford, three and a half miles ; to Wethersfiold, four miles ;
to Glastenbury, four miles ; over Newington Mountain, three
and one half miles ; to Prospect Hill ; to Bloomfield, and last to
Sliipman's at Rocky Hill, some seven miles, which by city
people is considered an " institution."

"WINDSOR.

The first English settlement in Connecticut was made at
"Windsor in 1633. William Holmes and others erected a house
on the Farmington River near its mouth, and the land in its
vicinity is still known as Plymouth Meadow. The Dutch Gov-
ernor at New York sent a force to assault the house erected by
Holmes and drive the English away, but it was so well for-
tified that the expedition returned without doing it, after
making friends with the English. Roger AVolcott, Governor of
Connecticut from 1751 to 1754, and Oliver Ellsworth, Senator

SOUTH WINDSOR.

and Chief Justice of the United States, were bom in this town.
Windsor is a pleasant country village, but is not a place of
much business.

SOUTH WINDSOR.

South Windsor, situated on the east side of the Connecticut,
and six miles north of Hartford, is ^distinguished as being
the birthplace of Jonathan Edwards, the great American
divine, John Fitch, the inventor of the steamboat, and Oliver
Wolcott, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
and Governor of Connecticut in 1796. During the Revolution-
ary war many prisoners were sent here for safe keeping, and
among them were William Franklin, the royal governor of New
Jersey, and son of Dr Franklin, Gen. Hamilton and Gen. Pres-
cott. Gov Franklin was quartered at the house of Lieut. Dig-
gin, about a mile south of the Congregational church, where
with his servants, he lived in princely style. He was extremely
fond of sour punch, and in a bower situated in a retired spot, back
of the sti^et near Podunk Brook, he prepared and served his
favorite beverage to the French visitors, who styled it " one
grand contradiction." South Windsor was the headquarters
of Gen. LaFayette, in 1788, after the project of invading Can-
ada had been abandoned, and he remained at the house of INIr.
Porter during his stay in town, about three-quarters of a mile
south of the Congregational church, which was provided for
defense by port-holes for muskets. Many of the elm trees now
standing were set out by the British and Hessian prisoners at
the suggestion of Gen. LaFayette, who held one end of the line
while Mr. Porter held the other. The trees ^wore planted in
r©ws parallel with the street. While LaFayette resided here
he was visited by Washington and in order to do honor to the
occasion he requested Lieut. King to appear with a company
of mounted men. Forty-two men were mustered, equipped
somewhat ludicrously with sheep skiijs for saddles and canes for
3*

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

flwords, and LaFayette introduced them as follows: "Gen.
Washington, I presume you are acquainted with this troop."
The General replied, " I do not remember that I ever before
had the honor of seeing them." Much to Washington's amuse-
ment, LaFayette expressed his surprise, remarking, that they
had seen much service and were known as the " Old Testament
Guard."

THE STONE BRIDGE, NEAR WINDSOR.

North of Windsor station the railroad company are building
across Farmington Jliver a substantial stone bridge, 450 feet in
length, with seven arches, at a cost of $40,000.

WINDSOR LOCKS.

A few miles further north, on the banks of the Connecticut is
tLe manufacturing village of Windsor Locks. The water power
is furnished from a canal on the west side of the river, five
miles in length, that was built many years ago around Enfield
Falls, for the purpose of improving the navigation of the Con-
necticut. Sloops and small steamboats laden with merchandise
going to towns higher up the Connecticut, used to pass through
the canal and thence around the rapids in the river. Since the
construction of the railroad this canal has become of no use so
far as its original purpose is concerned, but the ingenuity of man
has seized upon it and compelled it to contribute to his material
wants.

Here are located the Seymour Paper Company, manufac-
turers of Printing and Envelope paper; J. Francis & Co.'s
Rolling Mills ; the Foundry of H. A. Converse, the Spool Cot-
ton manufactory of L. M. Pinkham, the Chuck mills of Horton
& Son Jid the Manilla paper mill of C. H. Dexter.

'Gen.
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THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

THE GREAT IRON BRIDGE ACROSS THE CONNECTICUT AT

WAREHOUSE POINT.

Passing "Windsor Locks you come to one of the finest bridges
in this country — the great Iron Truss Bridge across the Con-
necticut at Warehouse Point, midway between Hartford and
Springfield. It is 1,525 feet long, weighs including track and
floor beams upon which the track rests, about 800 tons, and cost
$265,000. The chief engineer of this noble structure was Mr.
James Laurie, a Scotchman by birth, who, for several years
was President of the board of Civil Engineers in this country,
and for a time at the head of the Government engineers in
Nova Scotia. He was assisted by Theo. G. EHis, Engineer of
the Hartford Dyke. The plans were made in 1862 and sub-
mitted to a Philadelphia firm, but owing to the great demands
upon American iron workers, for Government work, for war
purposes, it could not be built in this country as soon as
required. After some delay it was decided to have the bridge
built in England, and in January, 1864, Mr. Laurie sailed lor
Europe to give out the contracts. On arriving in England he
proceeded to Manchester where he contracted with William
Fairbairn & Sons, they agreeing to make the iron for the bridge
by the first of December. Subsequently it appearing that they
would not be able to finish the work as soon as specified, part
of it was given to the London Engineering and Iron Ship
Building Company. In about a year the bridge was shipped
from Liverpool and London, and in June, 1865, work upon its
erection was begun. About one hundred workmen, many of
whom came specially from England, were employed and in
Feb. 1866 it was completed.

There are seventeen spans in the bridge, the longest of which,
the channel span, in the center of the river, is 177^ faet. Eight
of the other spans are 88^ feet each, another is 140 feet, anothtn*
76| feet, another 43 feet and another 25^ feet, making the
exact total length of the bridge 1,524^ feet.

GREAT IRON BRIDGE.

•idges
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Each span consists of % wrought iron truss, composed of hori-
zontal plates, angle and T iron. The width of the deck of the
bridge upon which the truck rests is 17^ feet. Of the iron truss,
canal span, IG feet, of the channel span 12f feet, and of the
others, 10|J^ feet. The hight of the truss — channel span, IG^
feet, canal span 12]^^ feet, and of the others 11 feet.

The horizontal plates in the four chords are from 15 to 25
feet in length, from one-fourth to three-fourths of an inch in
thickness, and about eight inches in width. At the joints a
short plate is riveted to each side of the main plate, and is so
arranged that no two joints meet in the same place. The plates
and angle iron, whicl% are riveted together, give each chord a
trough like shape. From the upper to the lower chord on each
side of the bridge, are iron posts, made or plate, angle and T iron.
Across the posts on an angle of 45 degrees, extending from the
bottom to the top chord on each side of the bridge, are bars of a
few inches in width. In the short span these bars cross but one
post to which it is firmly riveted, in the next longer two posts,
and in the channel span three. The posts being several feet
apart, from five to five and three-fourths feet, they give a lattice
like appearance to the bridge. Extending through the truss
are lateral and vertical tie bars which help support it.

The spans are securely fastened to the piers beloiv. One
end of each span rests upon four iron rollers which lurn upon
an iron bed-plate, and between the ends of the spans is a
sj)ace of an inch and a half, allowed for expansion. These rollers
are upon every other pier — the ends of the spans upon the inter-
vening ones ji e firmly secured to the masonry, so there can be
no possibility of the bridge getting out of place.

The frame of the bridge was all put together in England
before shipping and then part of it taken down. This was
done to detect any mistake that might have occurred.

Tliere are 175,000 rivets, from three-fourths to one and one-
eighth inches in diameter, in the bridge. Part of tbem were

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

put in by machinery in England and the remainder by hand
while the bridge was being erected.

The piers of the old bridge, which are of Monson granite, were
used, after raising them to a greater hight, and new ones were
built between the old, doubling the number. To build the
bridge and maintain,the old one so as not to delay the trains,
while the work was in progress was an undertaking of no small
magnitude. It was however accomplished and of the 22 to 28
trains that crossed the bridge daily not a detention of a single
minute was caused to thorn. The lower chords of the iron
bridge were placed upon blocking two feet in thickness, which
rested upon the piers, and during Sunday when there was no
train to pass the completed span was Awered to its place by
means of hydraulic jacl^.

The weight of the bridge, not including track and floor beams,
is 624 tons and its cost in England in gold was $85.58 per
ton. In New York in currency, its cost was $241.54 per ton.
The freight from London and Liverpool to New York was
$3.75 per ton. Some of the other items of cost are as follows :
Freight from London and Liverpool to New York, $2,342.10 ;
duty, $30.12 per ton; making a total of $18,796.40 ; paid pre-
mium on gold, $73,120.08 ; cost of bridge in England, $53,-
400.22 ; cost of iron work, erected, $173,109.02 ; cost of labor
for erection, including tools, $10,985.34; cost of masonry, $15,-
744.07. It will be seen by this that the premium on gold which

was then in the vicinity of 100, amounted to $19,720.46 more
than the cost of the bridge in England, when ready for

shipment.

The track passes over the top of the bridge, excepting the
span over the canal, and the view up and down the river is very
fine. The distance from the top of the rails to low water mark
below is 47 feet.

This is the most extensive^ iron bridge in the United States,
but for several years, the New York Central, Baltimore and
Ohio, and Pennsylvania Central Railroads have tested them on

WARF.nOUSE POINT.

fli

a smaller scale and have become satisfied of their durability.
It li thought that this bridge will last a century. The strength
of the bridge must l)e very great, and it is estimated that a con-
tinuous line of locomotives, from one shore to the other, would
not exceed more than one-seventli of the weight that it is
capable of sustaining. • '

Two wooden bridges have been built in this place — the first
one in 1844, when the road was opened. It was blown down
in 0(!tober, 1846, and rebuilt in forty-five days.

The iron has all been painted red and the appearance of the
bridge in the distance is very fine. A good view of it can be
had soon after the train passes Windsor Locks, going north,
or before it reaches "Warehouse Polm going south. To get
a correct estimate of its great magnitude one wants to leave the
train and pass through its entire length, underneath the railroad
track. There is a narrow plank on either side, extending
through the bridge, but unless one has good nerves the rushing
waters below might disturb his equilibrium.

During the construction of the bridge no serious accident
occurred. One workman fell through a thirteen inch hole into
the river, a distance of forty feet and struck in water that was
only nine inches deep. He was disabled only for a few days
and then continued work until the bridge was completed.

WAREHOUSE POINT.

Crossing the Connecticut on the iron bridge you come to
Warehouse Point, a way station at the east end of the bridge on
the bank of the river. Formerly this was a place of some note,
it being the head of sloop navigation. The place received its
name from the fact that warehouses for the storage of merchan-
dise were located here. The boats unloaded at this place and
their cargoes were transferred to wagons and carried to the
several towns farther up the Comiecticut.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY OUIDE.

ENFIELD. — COL. HAZARD'S POWDKK W0KK9. — TIIR SHAKERS.

Pnasing Warehouse Point, the village of Endeld will bo
noticed on the hill to the east. This la i\ quiet, rural town,
overlooking the Connecticut and the valley for many mrles.
The northern limits of the town extend to the boundary line
between Connecticut and Massachusetts. Four miles east of
the river is Hazardville where are located part of the powder
mills of Col. A. G. Hazard. He also owns mills at Scitico,
(in Enfield,) at East Hartford, and Canton. During the Rebel-
lion he furnished a large quantity of powder for the Govern-
ment, and England, during the Crimean war, purchased a
million and a quarter dollars worth of him. There are no
powder works in Englana so large as those owned by the Colo-
nel, and himself and Dupont make one-half of the powder that
is manufactured in this country. The jx)wder is taken to the
magazine, near Enfield station and from there sent down the
river in small boats. He has been thirty years in the business
and has acquired a large property. His acquaintance with the
public men of the country is extensive, and when Webster was
at the zenith of his fame he was among his personal friends.
Gov. A. il. Bullock of Massachusetts married one of his
daughters.

The Shakers have one of their largest communities in this
town, six miles east of the river. They number several hun-
dred members, and are a very industrious and thriving people.

THOMPSONVTLLE — THE HARTFORD CARPET WORKS.

Two mile north of Enfield bridge, and in the town of En-
field, is the manufacturing village of Thompsonville, named in
honor of Col. Orrin Thompson, the founder of the Hartford
Carpet Works located at this place. The manufacture of car-
pets was begun here in 1828 and this establishment is now one
of the largest of its kind in the country. The varieties made
are Ingrain and Venetian, and the quality is said to be superior
to anything found in the American market, so much so that

anc
citA

VRCR3.

nil bo

town,
m'rles.
iry line
east of
powder
Scitico,
5 Rebel-
Glovern-
[lased a
are no
lie Colo-
rder that
m to the
lown the
business
with the
ster was

friends,
e of his

3 in this
ral hun-
g people.

RlvS.

n of En-
amed in
Hartford
ire of ear-
now one
Iies made
J superior

LONGMKADOW — SPRINGFIELD.

foreign Ingrain carpets liave been superseded by them. The
machinery at these mills is driven entirely by steam, three
f'n<nnes, one of them 500 horse power, being used for that i)ur-

)^e. The consumption of coal in a single year amounts
000 tons. Tlujre are in the mills 127 Ingrain and 14 Ve-
1 n ])0wer looms, and there are mauJifMctured daily (>000
V!i of Ingrain carpeting. The wotd consumed is all im-
ported, as there are no breeds of slieej) in this country produc-
ing a quality sufficiently coarse to be used in manufacturing
carpets. It requires GOOO pounds of wool per day to keep the
mills in full operation. The capital of the Company is $1,500,-
000 ; President and Treasurer, Geo. Roberts, Hartibrd ; Super-
intendent at Thompsonville, J. L. Houston. The Company
also have mills at Taritfville, where they manufacture IJrussels
carpeting.

The ICnfield Manufiicturing Company, with a capital of
$250,000 employ 300 hands, and manufacture shirts, hosiery, &c.

LONGMEADOW.

Within four miles of Springfield, on the plateau, east of tlie
railroad, will be noticed the village of Longmeadow. The
Ixiundary line between Massachusetts crosses the Connecticut
between this place and Thompsonville. Longmeadow was set-
tled in 1 644, eight years after the settlement of Springfield.

SPRINGFIELD.

Diatanco from New York, 134 miles; Montreal, 310; White Mountains, 184;
Lako Mcmphrcniagopt, 229; Quebec, 402,

In approaching Springfield from the south, as the train
passes around the bend in the river, the city will be noticed on
the left, and then again on the right, spread out over the hill-
side, more than a mile distant. The most prominent buildings
to be seen are the United States Arsenal on Armory Square,
and St.. Michael's (Catholic) Church, west and below it. The
city contains 25,000 inhabitants and is rapidly increasing in

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

■wealth and imporUince. It is compactly built for a provincial
city and numbers amon^ its inlial)itants souk; of the most
enterprising people in New Knj;land.

In a eompunitive smse S|>rin<^(ield has not been so much
divStin;^uished for its njunulaetoiies as for being a great natural
connnereial center. A few years ago, with few exceptions,
very little numufaeturing was done within what are now the
limits of the city; but more recently the manufacturing inter-
ests have been greatly increased. Here center long lines of
railways, from north, south, east and west, with direct commu-
nication with all the large cities of the country, while for nearly
fifty miles on either line, out of Springfield, and contributory to
its trade and business, are large and thriving towns.

The United States Armory, which was established here in
1795, has probably been the chief source of prosperity to
the town, although the number of hands employed previous
to the Rebellion seldom exceeded 400. After the destruc-
tion of the Harper's Ferry Armory, early in the war, a larg"
force, at one time 3,200 men, were kept at work divided into
two sets — one party working at night, and another during
the day. There were manufactured during tlie four years
of the Rebellion, from April, 18G1, to June 30, 1865, 791,134
guns of various patterns, nearly all of which were borne over
many a bloody battle field in defense of free institutions. This
is a larger number of muskets than was manufactured durmg
the first G5 years of the existence of the Armory, up to the
commencement of the Rebellion. The amount of disburse-
ments in 18G5 that passed through the paymaster's hands, Mr.
Edward Ingersoll, including money and material used at the
Armory, was $4,677,422, and for the whole time during the
war it was over $12,000,000. The two squares on the hill,
owned by the Government comprise more than 72 acres.
The Arsenal and the shops in which the muskets are made, ex-
cepting the welding of the barrels, are located on the western

TUB ARSENAL.

square overlooking the city and the valley beyond. It is
iMcloscJ by an iron fence nearly nine feet high, and the grounds
iin* neatly and tastefully laid out. The view from the top
of tin*. Arsenal is particularly fine, exceeding in some respects
that obtain«'d from any other point in the city. The Arsenal,
which is three stories high, will hold three hundred thousand
muskets, and they are so regularly and neatly arranged in
colunms that they make a striking display. Some years ago
Longfellow, after visiting the place previous to the Rebellion,
and when such a thing seemed impossible, wrote the following
lines, which were so prophetic and so expressive in the por-
trayal of the evils of war and bloodshed that they will be read
with renewed interest by cv|ry one who has been at the
Arsenal: . .

THE ARSENAL AT SPRINGFIELD.

This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceiling,
Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ;

But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing
(Startles the villages with strange alarms.

Ah ! what a sound will rise— how wild and dreary —
When the death-angel touches those swift keys I

Wliat loud lament and dismal Miserere
Will mingle with their awful symphonies !

I hear even now tlie infinite, fierce chonis —

The cries of agony, the endless groan,
Which, through the ages that have gone before us,

In long reverberations reach our owti.

On helm and harness ring3*the Saxon hammer,
Through Cimbric forest roars the Norseman's song ;

And loud, nmid the universal clamor,
O'er distant deserts sounds the Tartar gong.

I hear the Florentine, who from his palace
Wheels out his battle-bell with dreadful din ,

And Aztec priests upon their teocallis
Beat the wild war-drums made of serpent's skin ,

J '

68 THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

The tumult of each sacked and burnhig village ;

The shout that every prayer for mercy drowns ;
The soldiers' revels in the midst of pillage ,

The wail of famine in beleaguered towns ;

The bursting shell, the gateway wrenched asunder,
The rattling musketry, the clashing blade —

And ever and anon, in tones of tlmnder,
The diapasou of the cannonade.

Is it, O man, with such discordant noises,
With such a ;cursed instruments as these,

Thou drownest Nature's sweet and kindly voices,
And jarrest the celestial harmonies?

Were half the power that fills the world with terror.
Were half the wealth bestowed on camps and courts

Given to redeem the human mind from error,
There were no need of arsenals nor forts ;

The warrior's name would be a name abhorred ;

And every nation that should lift again
Its hand against a brother, on its forehead

Would wear forevermore the curse of Cain I

Down the dark future, through long generations,
The echomg sounds grow fainter and then cease ;

And like a bell, with solemn, sweet vibrations,
I hear once more the voice of Christ say, " Peace ! "

Peace ! — and no longer from its brazen portals.
The blast of war's great organ shakes the skies ;

But beautiful as songs of the immortals,
The holy ihelodics of love arise.

The Water-SIiops, located about a mild south east of the Ar-
senal, are parti'ulf rly well adapted to the purposes for which I
they were constructed. Here all the barrels are made and
tested.

Spnngfield cannot boast of so many pleasant drives as some!
of the other towns 'n its vicinity, bu% it has a few charming I

MANUFACTURERS.

views. That from Long Hill, in the south part of the city is as
grand as it is extensive. The city on the right, the winding
river on the left, the broad valley, checkered with a thousand
fields, and the towering mountain peaks skirting the western hor-
izon, present a beautiful and picturesque scene.

Tlie cemetery, the principal entrance to which is from Maple
Street, has few equals in natural beauty, or artificial adornment,
when Mount Auburn and Greenwood are excepted. Inroads
have been made upon Puritanical ideas even here in the heart
of New England, and tlie last resting places of the dead
aie now adorned by loving hands, stripping them of the more
forbidding aspects that once distinguished thera. No one
should fail «f spending a few hours in this secluded and beauti-
ful spot.

Hampden Park, in the north part of the city, lying between
the Connecticut River Railroad and the river, is conveniently
situated and comprises a large number of acres. Here have
been held several National Horse Shows and the Coufity Agri-
cultural Fairs. There are no better show grounds in New
England.

S[)ringfield is the oldest town in ISIassachusetts on the Con-
necticut River, having been settled in 1G3G by a colony from
lloxbury, and many of the descendants still live in the vicinity.

The two principal business streets are Main and State—
' e former running parallel with the river, and the latter cross-
ing it at right angles, extending from the Connecticut eastward
past the United States Armory. Many large and magnificent
brick blocks have been erected on Main Street within the last
few years. During the war, owing to the large number
oC workmen employed at the armory, few towns were eo
prosperous.

'The railroads terminating here are the New Haven, Hartford
and Springfield, and the Connecticut River — the former f>2
miles iii length, extending from New Haven to Springfield, and
the other north from Springfield to South Vernon, at the State

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

line, between Massachusetts and Vermont, a distance of 50
miles. The Western Raih'oad, connecting at Worcester witii
the Boston and Worcester, passes through Springfield and
terminates at Albany. The distance to Boston and Albany
from Springfield is about the same, it being about 100 miles
to either place. Here are located the repair shops of tlio
Western and Connecticut liiver Railroads, giving employment
to a large number of hands.

Of the several manufacturing establishments, the largest and
most important are the Wason Manufacturing Company, and
the Smith & Wesson. Tlie former manufacture railroad cars of
all descriptions, including passenger, sleeping, freight, coal and
horse railway cais. They employ 350 hands, and in 1865
their business amounted to $700,000,— $300,000 of which was
for cars furnished to the New Jersey Central.

The cars used by the Western, Central and Union Pacific
Railroads, divisions of the great line across the continent, were
made by them. The royal car, made several years since
for the Pasha of Egypt, one of the most elegant ever made in
this country, was turned out at their establishment. The prin-
cipal officers of the Company are, T. W. Wason, President ; G.
C. Fisk, Treasurer and General Agent ; H. S. Hyde, Secretary.

Smith & Wesson manufacture five, six and seven shot
revolvers, employing 350 I.ands. They turn out 350 revolvers
a day, amounting to a million of dollars per year. Their
revolver is so well known and so much of a favorite that up to
1866 they were tAvo years behind their orders, and now they
are more than a year behind.

The manufacture and sale, . at wholesale and retail, of
harnesses, saddles, trunks, &c., has become a large business
in Springfield within the last {ew years, and one of the most ex-
tensive concerns is that of W. H. Wilkinson, who, during
the Rebellion was largely engaged u|X)n government work.
He employed at one time as many as 400 hands, and made for
the Government during the war $1,500,000 worth of harnesses

MASSASOIT HOUSE.

and saddles. He delivered to the Government, $75,000 worth
of work after the fall of RichmoiKl. The teams of the first ten
regiments that left Connecticut were equipped by him, and
he also made tfce model Artillery harnesses for the Govern-
ment, a complete '^et of which were presented to each of the
Governments of Switzerland and Italy. Mr. Wilkinson em-
ploys one hundred hands at the present time, and his work
is sold in New England, in the West and South. Commencing
at twenty-one without any capital, he has by perseverance
accumulated a handsome property.

Josiah Cummings, formerly a partner wijh Mr. Wilkinson,
was also larguly engaged upon Government contracts du-
ring the Rebellion, employing 300 to 400 hands and making
a million of dollars worth of work. He now employs about a
hundred hands, and manufactures harnesses, saddles and trunks.
His trade extends all through the United States, and his har-
nesses are bought by the most wealthy gentlemen in the large
cities. He is now manufacturing as elegant and durable work
in either branch of his business, as can be purchased in New
York or Boston.

The manufacture of paper collars, envelopes and paper
boxes, has become an important business, and at the present
time a large number of hands are employed upon this laud of
work in Springfield.

5-^s=?---'^i;

THE MASSASOIT HOUSE, SPBINGFIETP, MASS.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

No hotel in New England has acquired so extensive and
deservedly good reputation as the Massasoit House, and very
few in the country are better known, and none are better kept.
It is the pride of its proprietors, the boast of every Massachu-
setts man abroad, and the haven of rest to the weary and
dusty traveler. The experience of hotel life is incomplete to
all who have not past its portiils. It is located close to the
depot, and ample time is given the tourist for meals. The pro-
prietors, M. & E. S. Ciiapin, have long been engaged in the
hotel business, — landlords of the Massasoit.

THE WEST SPRINGFIELD CHURCH — ANECDOTE OP DR.
LATHUOP A REMARKABLE AVAGER.

Leaving Springfield for the north, the West Springfield
Church, standing on a high bluff, on the west bank of the
river, will be noticed. This church is seen for many miles up
and down the valley. Here have preached more Doctors
of Divinity than at any other country church in New England,
and sonic of them liave been quite distinguished. Among
them were Rev. Dr. Joseph Lathrop, Rev. Dr. \Vm. B. Sprague,
of Albany, and Rev. Dr. Thomas E. Vermilye, of New York.
Rev. Henry M. Field, of New York, editor of the Evangelist,
son of Rev. Dr. Field of Stockbridge, preached here several
years. Dr. Lathrop, it is said, wjis one of the most remarka-
ble divines that ever lived in the Connecticut Valley, and
during his ministry of 65 years he wrote five thousand sermons,
seven octavo volumes of which have been published. An
anecdote is related of liim which is said to be a good illustra-
tion of his character. A parishioner, for some trivial reason
had become very angry with him. JMeeting him one day, he
said, " Doctor, have you any religion ? " " None to boast of"
was the laconic reply.

Another anecdote, concerning the erection of the church
is told by some of the old residents, which illustrates some
of the habits incident to earlier days : Many years ago, when

ve and
od very
IT kopt.
issachu-
ary and
plete to
e to the
["he pro-
i in the

P DR.

►ringfield
i of the
miles up

Doctors
Enghiud,

Among
Sprague,
!W York,
vangelist)
e several
remarka-
lley, and

sermons,
ed. An
I illustra-
al rejison
le day, he
toast of"

e church
ites some
ago, >Yhen

II rmiSm

riVll
G.
be J

half

W'.'irl

fniil

and

iiUf)!

the

richd

madi

Grai

roacj

recei

after

a siU

takir

DR. J. a. HOLLAND,

Q
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p
o
o

the church was built, the whole town turned out on "raising "
(lay to put up the frame. That bejng accomplished the "boys"
resolved upon having some fun. Going to the village tavern
where liquor was sold, one of the party informed the landlord
that he had just "bet the drinks" for all with another of their
number and as soon as a decision could be made the losing
side would pay for what was drank. The liquor was brought
out and many a glass was emptied. Then the landlord in-
quired the nature of the wager, and received the following
explanation : " Why," says the leader of the party, " I have
ju.^t bet Jones that when that steeple falls it will go to the
south, and he bets that it will fall to the north. When it goes
over let me know and you shall have your pay." As the
steeple still stands, it is presumed the bet of fifty years ago
is yet unpaid.

THE RESIDENCE OP DR. HOLLAND.

Passing Hampden Park on the left, and Round Hill on the
ri;jfht, in leaving Springfield, Brightwood, the home of Dr. J.
G. Holland, known in literature as Timothy Titcomb, can
be seen some distance east of the railroad upon an eminence,
half hidden among stately trees. The Doctor is a genial,
warm hearted gentleman, now, after years of toil in full
fruition of his fondest hopes, dwelling beneath his own vine
and fig fi*ee, and yet on the sunny side of life, not having past
into tlie fifties. He was born in Belchertown, Mass., and was
the son of a mechanic who was more noted for piety than
riches. Moving from town to town as demand for his labor
made it necessary, his father resided in Belchertown, Heath,
Granby, South Hadley and Northampton, before the Boctor
reached manhood. In the High School at Northampton he
roeeived the greater part of his scholastic acquirement?, and
after trying his hand at various employments, working in
a silk factory, teaching penmanship and the English branches,
taking daguereotype?^, <fcc., he finally settled down upon the con-
4*

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

X',

'i!

1!
! <

III:

viction that hia splicrc was to be that of a coimtiy doctor — a
vender of pills and powders. Studying mcdicitje at Northamp-
ton and attending medical tectures in Pittsfield, he took his
"flheep-skin" and went out into tlie world with the vague
impression that fame and fortune were at the top of a not very
long ladder. Ah, well it is, that in the conflict of life the
future is hidden from human eyes. lie settled finally in
Springfield, where the stern realities of every day life widened
kis knowledge of human nature and modified some of his
enthusiasm. Meeting with little encouragement in the practice
of his profession, or in the publication of a weekly paper,
he turned his steps southward, somewhat discouraged. He
went to Richmond, Va., where he taught school and afterward
to Vicksburg, Miss. In the latter place he received a salary
of $1000 per annum, as Superintendent of public schools.
While here the sickness of a near relative called his wife north.
After her departure he became disheartened, and giving up his
place left for Springfield. On the day of his arrival in that
city, less than twenty years ago, the associate editor of the
Springfield Republican, a son of Rev. Dr. Davis of Westfield,
was buried. On the way from the depot to the home of a
iriend the argus eyes of the editor-in-chief, who scenteth
smartness afar off, fell upon him and then came. the thought
" Here's my man." A proposition was made and accepted, the
Doctor commencing on a salary of Jive fnmdred dollars —
half the amount he had received in Mississippi. " There is a
tide in the affairs of men," says Shakespeare, '• which taken at
the fk)od leads on to fortune." This was true of the Doctor.
In earlier years he had shown fondness for rl yming, and here
in his jjew field he found ample scope for his brilliant imagina-
tion. He soon won success as a writer and author, and the
dark ||^lo that had dimmed his horizon gave place* to the broad,
glorious sun-light. His first book was a l*istory of Western
Massachusetts, written for the colunms of the Springfield
Republican, as have been a larger part of his publications.

DR. J. G. HOLLAND.

Following this, appeared from his pen, Bay Path, Letters to the
Young, Bitter Sweet, Gold Foil, Miss Gilbert's Career, Les-
sons in Life, Letters to the Joneses, Plain Talk on Familiar
Subjects, and Life of Abraham Lincoln. His reputation as an
author was established on Letters to the Young, which has had
a very extensive circulation, although not as great as his
Life of Lincoln, which has gone above one hundred thousand
copies. This is an octavo volume of some 700 pages, and
every line of it, and in fact all the labor bestowed upon it, com-
mencing with the first collection of material, was done inside of
four moiths. When his publisher made application to have
the work written a difference of opinion rose in regard to com-
pensation. The Doctor demanded $5000 and the publisher
would give only $3000. A compromise was finally made by
fixing the price at 20 cents per copy. As over a hundred
thousand copies have been sold it will be seen that this was a
compromise productive of good to the deserving party, unlike
most of those made -in higher places. In the early part of
lbG6 he sold his interest in the Springfield Republican—
twenty-six shares, a little over a quarter of the whole concern—
for S2G,000, and he now retires to green fields^ poetry and
books, with a fortune sufficientl}'^ ample to supply the wants of
station and reasonable desire, and all made, too, since his con-
nection with the Springfield Republican.

CHICOPEE.

Nearly four miles north of Springfield is the manufacturing
town of Chicopee, situated on the south Jaank of Chicopee River.
The Dwight Manufacturing Company's mills, seven in number
will be seen on the Chicopee River, nearest the railroad.
This corporation has a capital of $1,700,000, employs, when
I in full operation, 2,000 hands and manufactures $20,000,000
worth of goods annually. There are 70,000 spindles in the
mills and the goods manufactured consist of sheetings, shirt-
ings, drills and print cloths. Sylvanus Adams is Agent and
S. H. Br^ham, Superintendent.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

H'-

The Amea Manufacturing Company, wliose buildings can bo
seen east of the tall chimney, employs 41)0 hands in manufac-
turing gun-stocking machinery, water wheels, bronze cannon
swords, bronze statuary, silver and plated ware, &c. They are
the kirgest manufacturers of bronze cannon in the country and
during the war they made over a thousand cannon for the Gov-
ernment, besides a large quantity of shot and shell, running their
works night and day, for throe years and emj)l()ying 600 to 700
hands. In every gunboat and on every battlefield their cannon
played a prominent part in overcoming treason. The capital
of this corporation is $250,000. James T. Ames is Agent and
Geo. Arms, Superintendent.

The Gaylord Manufaeturing Company employ alwut 100
hands in making mail-bags, military accoutrements, locks, steel
pens, &c

At Chicope© Falls, two miles east of Chicopee, are several
large manufacturing establishments. The Chicopee Manufac-
turing Company employ 1,000 hands and manufacture sheet-
ings, shirtings, print flannels, drills and counterpanes. Their
capital is $420,000. E. Bh.ke, Agent ; Cliarles Green, Super-
intendent.

The Belcher & .Taylor Manufacturing Company employ
about 50 hands in manufacturing agricultural implements.
Capital, $50,000 ; B. B. Belcher, Agent.

Whittemore & Belcher also manufacture a large variety of
agricultural implements. This is one of the oldost and lai'gest
concerns of its kind in this country. '

■'•• :•>■ ' »' " ' WILLIMANSETT. , ■;.. y^ ■

This station is four miles from Chicopee. Passengers for
South Hadley Falls, opposite Holyoke, leave the railroad at
this place. A few rods north of the station the Conriecticut
River is crossed on a bridge 700 feet in length.

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HOLTOKK.

HOLTOKE.

Distance from New York, 144 miles; Montreal, 302: White Mountains, 176 ;
Lake Memphremagog, 228; Quebec, 374.

Shortly before reaching Willimansett the factories, public and
private buildings of Holyoke are seen in the north-west. Here,
eight miles from Springfield, is the greatest water power in
New ICngland, and here at some future day will be one of the
largest manufacturing cities in America. Just north of the
town, a dam, 30 feet high and 1,017 feet in length, is built
across the Connecticut. The river at this point falls 60 feet in
a mile and a half, and furnishes power sufficient to drive more
than a million of cotton spindles, three times greater than there
are at Lowell. There are three canals, (along which are situated
the factories,) so arranged that the water is used three times
over, the mills on the upper canal discharging the water from
their wheels into the canal of the second level, from the second
into the third, and from the third into the river below the rapids.
The upper canal is 140 feet wide, 20 feet deep and lined on
both sides by heavy stone walls. The upper canal is now 3,000
feet in length, the middle 7,000 feet, and the lower 3,600 feet.
They are tp be extended when there is demand for more power
and their united length, when completed will be nearly six
miles. The dam, canals, and some 1,100 acres of land are
owned by the Holyoke Water Power Company, who lease the
power for a term of years, or in perpetuity to parties wishing to
erect manufacturing establishments. There is never a deficiency
of water, even in the driest seasons, nor can the mills on the
two upper canals be obstructed by back water, as in some
localities. - - - ■•' ^'''t'-^

•t rib ,.

The project of a dam across the Connecticut at this place
was first suggested in 1847, and in the following year it was
completed, but was so poorly built that it was carried away
a few hours after the gates were closed— just before the water
Imd reached the top of the dam. In 1849 another one was
built which has withstood the greatest freshets ever known in

'78

THK CONNECnOUT VALLEY GUIDE.

the Connecticut. It is built of wood and contains more than
four millions feet of lumber, all of which being under water is
protected from decay. The top of the dam is covered with
sheets of boiler plate iron, from one shore to the other. The dam
is spiked to the solid rock in the bottom of the river by three
thousand one and one-quarter inch iron bolts, thus preventing
any possibility of its ever giving way. During the construction
of the dam the water passed through 46 gates, 16 by 18 feet
each, and when completed at twenty-two minutes before one, in
the afternoon of Oct. 22, 1849, the engineer gave the signal,
and half of them (alternate ones) were closed. Another signal
was given and the remaining gates were shut. The river
ceased its flow until its waters gradually collecting, rose upon
the face of the dam and finally fell in an unbroken sheet over
its crest. This water fall, considering its length, is the most
beautiful in New England, and the traveler can obtain a good
view of it soon after leaving the depot, by taking a seat on the
east side of the car. -

The village is pleasantly situated on a hfll-side facing the
east, which affords delightful sites for elegant residences. At
the present time there are some 6,000 inhabitants in the town,
and as manufacturing interests are improving it will be
largely increased. The Water Power Company supply
the town with gas and water. The reservoir, which will
hold 2,000,000 gallons, is filled from the Connecticut by force
pumps, and as it is 72 feet above the dam there is sufficient
head to throw the water over the highest mill in the town.

Among the corporations and manufacturing companies doing
business in the town are the following :

Holyoke Water Power Company owns dam, canals, and 1,100
acres of land. Leases power for manufacturing purposes.
Capital, $350,000. George M. Bartholomew of Hartford,
President; S Stewart Chase, Agent and Engineer.

The Lyman Mills employ l,2l)0 hands in manufacturing
sheetings, shirtings, lawns and print cloths. The capital of thia

HOLTOKE.

corporation is $1,500,000, and the capacity of the mills is 50,-
000 spindles. The aggregate yearly product amounts to three
uiid a half millions yardtf, which is all sold in Boston and New
York. The Agent is J. S. Davis.

The Parsons Paper Company manufacture writing papers
of every description. They have nineteen engines for grinding
rags, and turn out 800 tons of paper yearly, valued at $500,000.
Their capital (nominal) is $GO,000. The number of hands
employed is 150. Aaron Bagg is President, J. C. Parsons,
Agent and Treasurer.

The Holyoke Paper Company manufacture writing papers.
When their additions are completed they will employ 300
hands and turn out four tons of paper daily. President, Daniel
Ashley ; Agent, O. H. Greenleaf ; Treasurer, C. H . Haywood.

The Whiting Paper Company manufacture collar paper,
turning out three and a half tons daily. They have a capital
of $100,000 and employ 100 hands. President, L. L. Brown ;
Agent, Wm. Whiting.

The Hampden Paper Company employ 75 hands and manu-
facture one and a half tons of collar paper daily. Their capital
is $60,000.

The Franklin Paper Company have a capital of $60,000,
employ 75 hands and turn out one and a half tons of collar
paper. The Agent is J. H. Newton.

The Bemis Paper Company manufacture Manilla paper.
Their capital is $50,000. President, Stephen C. Bemis ;
Agent, R. P. Crafts.

The Holyoke Manilla Paper Company have a capital of $30,-
000, employ 15 hands and manufacture one and a half tons of
paper daily, amounting in value per year, to $125,000. Presi-
dent, J. C. Parsons ; Agent and Treasurer, Henry S. Adams ;
Clerk, James G. Smith.

C. L. Frink employs 14 hands in manufacturing envelopes,
paper shirt bosoms, collars, «&c.

The Holyoke Machine Company manufacture castings, all

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

t : !

lii;

i Hi';

kinds of machinery, water wheels, &c. Number of hands em-
ployed, 80 ; capital $40,000. T. B. Flanders, Agent.

The Hampden Mills, with a capital of $270,000, employ
700 hands in manufacturing ginghams, cottonades and tickings.
The capacity of the mills is 10,000 spindles and the yearly pro-
duct is two millions yards, valued at $400,000. The goods are
sold in Boston and New York. The Agent is John E. Chase.

The Hadley Company manufacture a superior article of fine
yarns and threads. They have a capital of $800,000, employ
450 hands, and turn out one thousand pounds of yarns and
threads daily. Number of spindles in this establishment,
16,000. J. S. Davis, is the Agent. . ic.iiiiiLi, ii >:ii iK..ii jfi
<*•- The Merrick Thread Company, successors of Merrick Broth-
ers & Co., whose goods have been favorably known for quite si
number of years, employ 300 hands in manufacturing spool
cotton and fine yam. They have a capital of $200,000. The
company have an office at 28 Warren Street, New York. ^; jc

The Holyoke Warp Mills employ 50 hands, have,^ capital
of $75,000, and manufacture cotton warps and balmoral skirts.
H. M. Tinkham, Treasurer; A. L. Maxfield, Agent. ,(^«i^vm.

Geo. W. Prentisi? manufactures pia«o, broom and other wires.

The Germania Mills, with a capital of $250,000, employ
150 hands and manufacture about 200,000 yards of fine beevers.

The J. Beebe Woolen Mill employs 150 hands and manu-
factures 500,000 yards of doeskins per annum.

The New York V/^oolen Mill employs 125 hands and manu-
factures from 300.000 to 400,000 yards of fancy cassimeres per
annum.

E. Chase & Sons are extensively engaged in the lumber
business, and probably have a larger trade than any other lumber
firm in the valley. ut^-i.-

SOUTH HADLEY FALLS.

Opposite Holyoke is the village of South Hadley Falls. The
large brick factory on the bank of the river is the Glasgow

smith's ferby.

Gingham Works, and north of it a paper mill owned by the
same corporation, and the Carew Paper Company.

Leaving Holyoke the tourist passes the dam and around the
great bend in the Connecticut, continuing along the bank of the
river. The scenery for several miles is particularly line. •

smith's FERRT. MT. HOLYOKE FEMALE, SEMINARY IN THE

DISTANCE.

This Station is nearly five miles from Holyoke and four from
Northampton. Here passengers for South Hadley cross the
Connecticut. The village is in full view, situated on a com-
manding elevation, about a mile from the river. In South
Hadley is located the celebrated Mt. Holyoke Female Semi-
nary, established through the untiring efforts of Mary Lyon,
in 1837, who became its first preceptress. The main building
is 50 by 94 feet, five stories high, including basement, and has
two wings, one at each end. This is strictly a family school
on a large scale, to which no day pupils are admitted and no
domestics are employed. The labor is divided among the
whole number, each youHg lady having a particular portion
of work assigned her for a given time. The principal object
of the institution is to furnish a supply of well qualified female
teachers. Soon after leaving Smith's Ferry going north, a
good view of the Seminary is had, which is situated a short
distance south of the village church. ^.

SCENERY OP UNUSUAL INTEREST.

From Smith's Ferry to Northampton, a distance of four
miles, the varied objects which can be seen are of more than
usual interest. Nowhere along the whole route, crowded into
so small a ♦'pace is there so much to attract the attention of the
tourist. North and on the right, rises Mount Holyoke, on the
summit of which is seen the Prospect House. The train is
Boon passing between Mounts Tom and Holyoke, both of wliich
approach close to the river. Here the Connecticut, or the
4*

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

vast borly of water that once made this region a great lake,
gradually wore through the harrier of rock, leaving a magnifi-
cent valley, one of the most fertile upon the face of the globe.
On the east side of the river, at the western ead of Mount
Hol^^oke, are columnar rocks, rising perpendicularly from the
water to the hight of near a hundred feet, which resemble
those on the coast of Ireland, forming Finga^s Cave and the
Giant's Causeway. President Hitchcock, in his Geology of
Massachusetts has given them the name of Titan's Pier.

Looking up the Connecticut, on the right, will be noticed
Amherst College, eight miles distant. A little to the left and
farther north is Mount Toby, apparently extending towards the
east. A little to the left and still farther north is Sugar Loaf
Mountain, on the west bank of the Connecticut, and twelve
miles from Northampton. After passing over the railroad
bridge to what is known as Ox-Bow Island, the former course
of the Connecticut will be seen. Here the river, which for-
merly made a circuit of three and a half miles to gain a
distance of thirty rods, received the name of Ox-Bow. It
curved to the west and thence to the east, coming back to what
is now the main channel, east of the bridge. In 1840 a freshet
washed through the " neck " east of the railroad, making an
island of the land lying in the Bow. While crossing the
island, which contains 400 acres, and now connected to the
main land on the north by the railroad embankment, can be
seen in the west the factories and church spires of Easthamp-
ton. South of the Ox-Bow and under Mount Tom is Pascom-
muck, where in 1704 nineteen or twenty persons were slain by
Indians, and the village burnt. The highest elevation seen
west of Easthampton is Pomci-oy's Mountain, and at its eastern
base are several lead mines that were opened during the Revo-
lution, but owing to the great depth of the ore in the rock, they
were abaadoned. They have recently been re-opened and
worked. The meadows north of the Island are very broad, and

MOUXT IIOLYOKK — THE PROSPECT HOUSE.

including those extending to the right, they contain 8000 acres,
valued at $150 to $250 per acre. On approaching Northamp-
ton a good view of the State Lunatic Hospital is had, which is
located a mile west of the town. In the center will be noticed
the High School building, the Town Hall, the First Church,
and also Round Hill beyond with its Water-Cure buildings. ,,.,

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MOUNT IIOLYOKE — THE PROSPECT HOXJSE. ,t

In going north, the first distinct view of Mount Holyoke,
which is situated on the east side of the Connecticut, within
two miles of Northampton, is had soon after leaving Holyoke.
On the summit will be noticed the Prospect House, one thou-
sand feet above the Connecticut. Coming from the north, the

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

m i

mountain is seen at South Deerfield, and most of the way to
Northampton the Prospect House is prominently outlined on
the sky beyond. Here in 1821 was built the first house
erected on any mountain in New England. It is a favorite
place of resort and during a single season from fifteen to twenty
thousand people visit its summit, coming from nearly every
northern and western State in the Union. The view is beauti-
ful and •picturesque, and is pronounced by distinguished trav-
elers to be the finest in America. N. P. Willis, and Presi-
dent Hitchcock, the latter distinguished as a geologist, have
written glowing detcriptions of its unrivaled beauty, while
Jenny Lind, during a visit to it when on her concert tour
through this country, spoke of it in terms of unqualified praise.
So great a diversity of scenery is rarely met with. Mountain,
meadow, river and valley are harmoniously blended, while
here and there the tall spires of hundreds of churches are
seen pointing heavenward. The view is much more exten-
sive than one would suppose, reaching from the Green Mount-
ains in Vermont and Monadnock in New Hampshire on the
north, to East and West Rocks on the Sound in the south, a
distance of moresthan a hundred miles. On the west. Grey-
lock rears its stately peak, while in the east the rounded form
of Wachusetts meets the eye. The view embraces no less
than ten mountains in four States,* and about forty vil-
lages. But on the whole, the most pleasing scene is that of
the river and meadow beneath. The latter diversified by the
different crops under cultivation, resembles a magnificent car-
pet, the beauty and richness of coloring transcending anything
produced in art. In looking at this scene, one is reminded more
of a great painting than an actual landscape. The proprietor
of the Prospect House, J. W. French, has resided on the
mountain nearly twenty years, and half of that time both sum-
mer and winter. The present house is 55 by 70 feet, two sto-
ries high. Visitors are taken to the summit by steam power,

MOUNT TOM.

Qore
etor
the
Kum-
sto-
wer,

an inclined railway having been constructed in 1854, extend-
ing 600 feet down the mountain to the carriage road, where it
is to connect with a horse railway to the Connecticut River. A
steamboat was built in the spring of 1866, by Mr. French, of
the Prospect House, and makes trips on the Connecticut, car-
rying passengers to and from the terminus of the mountain
railway. . ^ . .

The summit is less than three miles from Northampton, from
which place it la easily reached by carriages or otherwise.

MOUNT TOM. «

Mount Tom, on the west side of the Connecticut, will be
noticed first, soon after leaving Springfield, in the north-west.
The point seen, which is the southern end, is 1,200 feet high,
the greatest elevation of any part of the mountain range. The
south-eastern face is comparatively gradual in ascent, and
reaches nearly down to the Connecticut. The north-western
side is more precipitous, and in some places is nearly perpen-
dicular. It is some three or four miles in length, and its north-
ern end terminates within a few rods of the Connecticut,
opposite Mount Holyoke. .■; r ^ v^ -; -,- ^^ • • % »■

■ -'-i . i . ■ . -■ . - ^

NORTHAMPTON.

Distance from New York, 153 miles; from Montreal, 293; White Mountains,
167; Lake Memphremagog, 212; Quebec, 385.

Northampton, which is 17 miles from Springfield, is among
the oldest towns in the Connecticut Valley, having been settled
in 1654 by 21 planters from Hartford and Windsor, who pur-
chased it of the Indians for " one hundred fathoms of wampum,
ten coats and some small gifts." The Indian name of the town
is Nonotuck. The whites gave it the name of Northampton
after a town of the same name in England. There are few
villages in New England which present so many attractions to
the summer tourist, and few are so widely and favorably known.
A traveler writing of it, very appropriately remarks : " We

•*

THE CONNKCTICUT VALLEY GUIDR*

must peep at Northampton with loving leisure. It is the front-
ispiece of the book of beauty, which nature opens wide in the
valley of the Connecticut, and one of the most winsome pic-
tures in the volume." ,h ,V Mff.if '»*/ t..wfr.,i.,,

Its broad and extensive meadows, its river and mountain
scenery, its ancient elms and shaded streets, distinguish it from
all the other towns on the banks of the noble Connecticut. It
has always been noted for its culture and refinement, as well as
for its great natural beauty, and many distinguished men have
been among its residents, including Maj. Joseph Hawley, a dis-
tinguished lawyer tnd statesman, who died in 1788; Rev.
Jonathan Edwards, the third minister of the town, who
preached here 23 years, from 1727 to 1753; Gov. Caleb
Strong, who was a member of the provincial Congress in 1774,
of the Convention for drafting the Constitution of the United
States, and one of the committee to draft a Constitution to be
submitted to the people ; a member of the United States Sen-
ate in the first Congress, and for eleven years Grovernor of
Massachusetts, commencing in 1800. ■»

In the cemetery are buried four persons who were once Uni-
ted States Senators from Massachusetts, Gov. Caleb Strong,
Eli P. Ashmun, Elijah H. Mills and Isaac C. Bates. David
Brainard, tlie missionary to the Stockbridge Indians, and Dr.
Sylvester Graham, one of the first lecturers on health in this
country, are also buried in the same cemetery. ^^ ,^

The Edwards Elm on King Street, the top of which can be
seen west of the railroad, shortly after crossing Main Street, is
among the oldest and mo.st beautiful trees in Northampton. It
was set out by President Edwards, in front of his dwelling,
during his ministry in the town. ,.,,, .rj, r^. r^

DR. DEJJNISTON's HOME FOR INVALIDS, ^^'f ^ ,cvvir

Dr. Denniston's Water Cure and Home for Invalids, is at
Spring Dale, just west of the village. It is pleasantly situ-
ated, and will accommodate fifty patients. The Doctor, who
devotes his time to the interest of his patients, has been quite
successful in the treatment of disease.

buildi

length

wings

floors

Was

Clev.

"WATER CURE nOTEL,

•7

' H!T-

ROUXD HILL WATER CURE AND HOTEL. ' '

Round Hill, a beautiful eminence overlooking the town,
with its water-cure buildings, and its grove of native forest
trees, will be noticed in the north-west, and about a quarter of
a mile west of the railroad.

Here George Bancroft, the historian, and J. G. Coggswell,
fbr some years Librarian of (lie Astor Library, had a famous
classical school — one of the most noted in this country. Dr. H.
Halsted now occupies the buildings for a water-cure. Jenny
Lind spent seveTal months there just after her marriage, previ-
ous to returning to Europe. The view from the piazza of the
water-cure is extensive and beautiful, and is nowhere surpassed.
The State Lunatic Hospital, located one mile west of the
village, is a large and elegant structure. The erection of the
building was commenced in 1856, and completed in 1858. The
length of the two wings and main building is 512 feet. The
wings are three stories high, and the main building four. The
floors cover an area of four acres. The first Superintendent
was Dr. William Henry Prince, of Salem, now residing in
Cleveland, Ohio. Resigning in 1864, Dr. Pliny Earle, formerly

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Superintendent of the Bloomingdale Hospital, -was appointed
Superintendent, which position he now holds. Its average num-
ber of patients is about 350. . ' ■

Northampton has always been celebrated for its beautiful
drives, which, with the many other pleasing features of the
town, attract hundreds from the cities to spend the summer
months. It has also taken great interest in educational matters,
and within the last few years there has been erected a High
School building, at a cost of about $40,000. *

Florence, a village within the limits of the town, and about
two miles and a half west of the center, in point of business
has perhaps shown the greatest enterprise. Here are located
the shops of the Florence Sewing Macliine Company, the Non-
otuck Silk Company, a Button and Daguerreotype Case fac-
tory. Cotton factory, &c. Dr. Charles Munde, a participator in
the German revolutions, and a refugee, for many years had a
water-cure establishment there, but it was burnt in 1865, and
he has since returned to Europe to educate his children, having
received a pardon from the King, and an appointment under
our government.

Some years ago there was an industrial association in Flor-
ence, called the Community, similar to those advocated by
Fourier, the distinguished French philanthropist. Considerable
land was purchased and held by the association. Here were
gathered some of the brightest intellects of the country, who
joined the association to achieve an ideal life. Failing to make
it pecuniarily self-sustaining, the project was abandoned, but
some of its members still reside in the town, and are among
its best and most worthy citizens. There has recently been
erected in Florence a school house, costing rJ)out $30,000;
nearly all of it a free gift from one of its most teemed resi-
dents, Mr. S. L. Hill.

Of the other manufacturing establishments in the town, the
most important are the Bay State Works, where hoes, rakes,

THE MANSION HOUSE.

(Jfc, are made; the Paper Mill of Wra. Clark & Co., L. B.
Williams & Co 's Basket Factory, ami Arms, Bardvvell & Go's
Skirt Factory. The International Screw Company are about
to erect shops in the town, and will give employment to a large
number of hands.

The construction of a Horse Railway through the streets of
Northampton to the village of Florence, was commenced in
the spring of 1866. This, now completed, is the only street
railway in Massachusetts west of Worcester. ^ « <■ '

The Northampton Indelible Pencil Company are doing con-
siderable business in the manufacture of Indelible Pencils for
marking fine linen. This is an article designed to take the
place of indelible ink.

;/*;•.'•! i '• -:

THE MANSION %I0USE AT NOKTHAMPTON.

This popular and well known hotel, kept by William Hill, is
centrally located, within five minutes walk of the depot. Under

<^in»MHw«»'

THE CONNECTICUT VAXLEY GUIDE.

ii'

Mr. Ilill's management it has come to be regarded by sum-
mer tourists with ^reai favor. A good Hvery stable is connected
with the house, and carriages are furnished to parties wishing
to visit Mt. llolyoke and the neighboring villages.

THE WARNER HOUSE

On Main Street, Northampton, kept by Roswell Hunt, is one
of the oldest hotels in the valley. For many years it was kept
by the late Hon. Oliver Warner, and under his management it
became widely known. It has been for many years a favorite
stopping place with business men, and has alvrays received a
large patronage.

THE FLORENCE SEWING MACHINE.

The manufactory of the Florence Sewing Machine at Flor-
the town of Northampton, is quite extensive, as will be

ence,

seen by the birds-eye view given of it by the artist. Here are
employed a large number of hands in manufacturing what is
acknowledged to be the best Sewing Machine now in use in this
country. This machine makes /bwr distinct stitches, lock, knot,
double lock and double knot ; either of which is stronger and more
elastic than that made by many other machines, and it has
become so popular that it has been almost impossible, much of
the time, to fill the orders for it. Some of the more important
features of this machine were invented by L. W. Langdon, then
of Rochester, N. Y. Pkicing his invention on exhibition at
Crystal Palace, New York city, it came under the observation
of Mr. S. L. Hill, of Florence, who made arrangements to have
its manufacture begun in the place of his residence. A company
• was formed, and after experimenting four years, they commen-
ced to build some of the machines. In a year and a half, after
surmounting many obstacles, they completed ten machines, at a
cost of $10,000. Since that time there has been no difficulty,
and the machine has risen rapidly into popular favor.

' ' 1

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

The usual number of machines manufactured is from 1,000
to 1,200 monthly.
I The advantages of this machine over all others is stated as follows :

"/if makes four different stitches, the IHk^, hiot, double
lock, and double knot, on one and the same 'machine. E«ich
stitch being alike on both sides of the fabric.

Every MachiHe has the reversible feed motion, wiiicK ena-
bles tbe operator, by simply turning a thumb screw, to have the
work run either to the right or left, to stay any part of the seam,
or fasten the ends of seams, without turning the fabric.

The only machine having a self-adjusting shuttle tension —
the amount of tension always being in exact proportion to the
size of the bobbin. ^

Changing the length of stitch, and from one kind of stitch to
another, can readily be done while the machine is in motion.

The needle is easily adjusted.

It is almost noiseless and can be used where quiet is necessary.

Its motions are sAl positive', there are no springs to get out
of order, and its simplicity enables the most inexperienced to
operate it.

. It does not require finer thread on the under than for the
upper side, and will sew across the heaviest seams, or from one
to more thicknesses of cloth, without change of needle, tension,
or breaking thread.

The Hemmer is easily adjusted, and will turn any width of
hem desired.

No other machine will do so great a range of work as, the
Florence. '-'

It will hem, fell, bind, gather, braid, quilt, and gather and
sew on a I'uffle at the same time."

To use a poor and worthless tool of any kind is poor econo-
my, and to nothing is this inile more applicable than to a sec-
ond rate sewing machine.

, The Company have offices in New York, Boston, Philadel-
phia, Cincinnati, Chicago, St. Louis, San Francisco, and in all

>»T.\ '«4'.=:.-, •". •,-*■■

THE SMITH CHARITIES.

9ir

the important places in the country, while a considerable num-
ber of machines have been sold in Europe.

The manufactory is only about two and a half miles from
Northampton, and is worthy a visit *

THE SMITH CHARITIES. "

Oliver Smith, of Hatfield, a bachelor, died in 1845 worth
$370,000, which he left by will to be devoted principally to
charitable objects. Among the provisions of the will was the
establishment of Smith's Agricultural School at Northampton,
60 years after his decease, and to asftist poor and worthy young
men and women and widow ladies. The will provides that
young men and women, taken from families residing in North-
ampton, Williamsburg, Hatfield, Hadley and Amherst, in
Hampshire County, and in Whately, Deerfield and Greenfield,
in Franklin County, and bound out to persons residing in those
towns, shall receive : girls, when married, as a marriage portion,
the sum of $300 ; boys, when of age, a loan of $500 for five
years — interest to be paid annually. At the end of the five
years, if they prove themselves worthy, then they shall have
the $500 outright, as a present, to assist them in commencing
business. Under certain conditions, the will also provides that
indigent young women, about to be married, can have $50 as a
marriage portion, and that indigent widows, who have children
dependent upon them, can receive $50 annually, to assist them
in supporting their families.

When the Annual Report was made in May, 1867, the aggre-
gate amount of the several funds was $853,776, divided as fol-
lows: Joint and Miscellaneous Fund, $451,168; Contingent
Fund, $341,627 ; Agricultural Fund, $54,907.

These funds are managed by a Board of three Trustees, all
of whom are chosen annually by electors — one from each of the
eight towns receiving benefits of the will. The electors are
chosen at the annual town meetings. The President of the

iT'^'T^

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Board is Hon. Osmyn Baker, of Northampton. In 1866 tho
Trustees completed the erection of an olHce and hanking build-
ing, at Northampton, of Portland freestone, at a cost of about
$30,000.

i|.'

THE SILK FEVER — REMARKABLE PERSEVERANCE OF ITS

ORIGINATOR. . .

The speculative mania which swept over this country some
30 or 40 years ago, concerning the production of raw silk, had
its origin in Northampton. The motive however of the one
who suggested it, was not of a speculative nature, but had its
foundation in a desire to do a great pubUc good. The origina-
tor of it has had remarkable experience, and his history is of
more than ordinary interest. Few men have ever labored so
perseveringly against so many discouragements, without being
disheartened and turned from their purpose. From the
attempt to introduce the production of raw silk into this
country he turned his attention to invention, but from a variety
of causes, when, seemingly on the point of realizing an im-
mense fortune, his expectations and years of anxious labor
have come to naught. Few have had the capacity to bring
their inventions so successfully before the public, or have
secured so large su.as to have them tested. In several in-
stances large companies have been formed, and altogether, him-
self and those concerned with him have expended not less than
half a million of dollars in his various enterprises. Yet,
nearly every one of his inventions have failed in securing to
him, or those interested, a remuneration. Not, it is claimed,
because they possessed no real worth, but from other causes
over which he had no control. He has at last, however, per-
fected an invention, after six years of most constant labor, that
promises to be one of great usefulness. It is an indelible pen-
cil for writing on paper — a substitution in many cases for ink.

UR. WHITMARSH.

Mr. Samuel Whitmarsh, the gentleman referred to, was for-
merly a dry goods merchant in New York. In 1830 he went
to Northampton to reside. It occurring to him that the pro-
duction of raw silk might be successfully don*? in this country,
he traveled through the silk regions of the Old World to make
investigations. He returned home with full belief in its prac-
ticability and at once made arrangements to commence the
business in Northampton. Mulberry trees were planted and
cocooneries established. The subjewl, was then discussed in the
public prints and thousands rushed into the budness without
any knowledge of it. Speculators seized upon it and fanned
the flame, and it soon become a mania, running through the
country like wild-fire. As a natural result the whole thing
proved a failure. . . •

A company ^vas formed in Northampton and a factory was
established in the village of Florence for the manufacture of
silk. In that factory was woven cloth for a silk vest which
Mr. "Whitmarsh presented to Henry Clay. In Northampton a
smaller factory was also built and in it ribbons of various qual-
ities were woven.

After making a series of experiments, Mr. Whitmarsh
became satisfied that a warmer climate would be more favora-
ble to the production of raw silk. He went to the island of
Jamaica to make investigations, and was convinced that the
business could be successfully carried on there. He formed a
company with a capital of $200,000, and in 1848 erected
extensive buildings.

Through the various discouragements that have been passed,
Mr. Whitmarsh has been unwavering. He visited England to
interest the people in the enterprise, and while at London sold
$50,000 worth of stock in the Company. The samples of silk
he had with him were pronounced to be the best in the London
market. Lord Metcalf, just appointed Governor of Jamaica,
took great interest in the enterprise, and declared to Mr. Whit*

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

°f!ni!

mVi

marsh that he was deservinpj of the highest monument that
could be erected, for what he had already accomplished. Re-
turning to Jamaica, to his great chagrin and disappointment, he
found that one of the directors in the Company, a lawyer by
profession, had had some difficulty with the owners of an ice-
house in which the worms had been placed, and had removed
them to a cellar, the dampness of which killed them. As
they had long been undergoing the process of acclimation, this
put the enterprise back five years. Following this began a
long and unprofitable litigation, and finally the project was
abandoned altogether. In 1846 he loaded a small vessel with
tropical plants, orange trees, century plants, &c., and accompa-
nied with his family and some 30 American workmen, sailed
for Boston, with a view of opening a botanical garden, under
the patronage of the city, the ship and cargo being all that
was left of a large property, and what at one time prom-
ised a great enterprise. In Boston the proposition to establis^h
a conservatory and garden did not meet with success, and it
was abandoned. Before leaving Jamaica he took up a century
plant and sailed for London, where he sold it for a hundred
guineas, and returned home by the same steamer.

Since the silk enterprise he has devoted himself to developing
several inventions. Among them, after spending some six or
eight years in experimenting, was a steam furnace for
warming buildings. A company was formed of New York
capitalists, and their manufacture commenced at Northampton.
Some difficulty arose in the company and this was abandoned,
Mr. Whitmarsh alone losing $30,000.

He next invented a kind of belting, and some New York
men began its manufacture at Northampton. This company
too got into difficulty, and after losing from $00,000 to $80,000
gave up the business.

In December, 1859, Mr. Whitmarsh commenced experiment-
ing with a view of inventing an Indelible Pencil for writing on

EASTHAMPTON.

paper, and after six years of the most patient labor, he has at
last succeeded. The patent is in the hands of Mr. A. G. Day,,
of Seymour, Conn., and Mr. Whitmarsh, and it will soon ue
brougnt before the public. .- > • . - ■ .. >

EASTHAMPTON.

Four miles south-west of Northampton, is the town of East-
liampton, noted for its schools and factories. It presents a very
neat appearance, much more so than is usual in a manufactu-
ring village, and its rapid growth is due to the enterprise of
Hon. Samuel Williston, son of Rev. Payson Williston, the first
minister of the town, who was settled in 1789. WiUiston
Seminary, which, as a classical school, to prepare young men
for college, has few equals, was established by Mr. Williston,
who has given $225,000 for that purpose.

He first commenced the manufacture of buttons in a small
way by hand, his wife assisting him. Meeting with great suc-
cess, he enlarged his business, and finally, in 1847, began the
erection of a factory at Easthampton. Previously he had man-
ufactured suspenders as well as buttons, and when his factory
was completed his business was transferred to it and greatly
enlarged. In later years other kinds of manufacturing have
been entered upon, and all of his enterprises have proved
immensely profitable. He is probably the richest manufactu-
rer in the western part of the State, and in 1864 he returned
an income of over $200,000. His gifts for religious and edu-
cational purposes in this vicinity amount to $318,000. Of this
amount he has given $225,000 to Williston Seminary, $50,000
to Amherst College, and $43,000 to Payson church in East-
hampton. AVTien the Canal Railroad was built, he subscribed
$35,000 to its capital stock, and as that enterprise, owing to bad
management, did not pay as an investtnent, that sum can be
regarded as a gift, which will make the aggregate of his public
donations $353,000.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

There are now in the town Bome half a dozen factoriee, with
a total capital of $1,600,000. The different corporations are:

Nashawannuck Manufacturing Company, capital $300,000,
employs 300 hands in manufacturing suspenders and frills.

Glendale Vulcanized Rubber Company, capital $250,000,
employs 300 hands, and manufactures elastic shoe webbing.

National Button Company, capital $150,000, employs 125
hands, and manufactures 1200 gross of buttons per day.

Easthampton Rubber Thread Com{)any, capital $100,000,
manufactures rubber thread used in webbing.

Williston IMills, capital $800,000, has two mills, and manu-
facture cotton yam for v/arps.

. ■■" .1

1' .

HADLEY.

Both above and below Northampton the church spires of Old
Hadley can be seen, about three miles east of the railroad, the
streets of which extend from the Connecticut on the north, to
the same river on the south, a distance of about a mile, the
town lying in the neck or base of the peninsula. The Con-
necticut here makes a curve to the west, and thence to the east
in its southerly course of seven miles. The town was settled
in 1650, by a colony from Hartford, Windsor and Wethersfield,
Conn. There are three streets running north and south, parallel
with each other. West street was laid out before the colony came
to the town, with " home lots " of several acres each on either
side of the street, which was originally twenty rods wide and
one mile in length. In 1773 the original width was reduced to
eighteen rods. Since that time still further reductions have
been made which have cut it down to seventeen and one-half
rods at the South, and fifteen and one-half rods at the North.
Various causes, including the encroachments of the river at the
north end, have reducecT its length to 300 rods, consequently it
contains not far from twenty-one acres. On each side of the
street are two rows of ancient elms, nearly 1,000 in number;

HADLET.

and the quiet, rural aspect of the town, with its broad and grass-
covered street, give it a peculiar appearance, unlike any other
village in the valley.

Middle Street was laid out in 1683, and was originally twenty
rods in width. It has however been reduced to about eleven
rods. East Street was laid out in 1825.

In 1657, Edward Hopkins of Hartford, left a donation of
fl^out £400, which was appropriated to establish a school. In
1667, the town granted to the trustees of this fund a meadow
in North Hadley, which now contains about 140 acres. Vari-
ous other accessions have been made, the Legislature in 1816
granted an act of incorporation, and gave them a quarter of a
township of land situated in what is now the State of Maine.
A building was erected in 1814, on the middle lane which runs
between East and West streets. From that time Hopkins*
Academy became one of the notable institutions in this valley.
The old building was burned in 1860, and the school held its
sessions in rooms fitted up in the basement of the Congrega-
tional Church until 1865, when the fund was incorporated with
that raised by the town, and a building erected ibr a High
School. She can reckon many of the most distinguished men
in New England among her graduates. * •

This town is celebrated as being the place of refuge of " the
regicides," William Goffe and Edward Whalley, two of the
judges who condemned Charles I. They had both occupied
positions in Cromwell's army, the former being a major-general
and the latter a lieutenant-general. After the restoration of
the monarchy, an order for their apprehension as traitors was
issued. They made their escape and reached Boston in 1660.
They resided in New Haven, Conn., for three years and a half
after their arrival, obliged all the while to use their utmost vig-
ilance, frequently being compelled to resort to the woods and
caves to elude their pursuers. At one time they secreted them-
selves under a bridge near New Haven, while the King's
officers rode over on horseback.

100

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

'ill

In October, IGfii, they came to Iladley and took up their
abode witli Rev. Mr. Russell, whose house yvm situated on the
east side of West street, directly north of what is now the
main road between Northampton and Amherst. Here they
remained concealed fifteen or sixteen years. The dangerous
secret was known to Peter Tilton and to a Mr. Smith, who
lived at the north end of the village. Through Mr. Tilton, who
was frequently a member of the general court, Goffe corres-
ponded with his friends. By one of his letters, dated April J,
1679, it appears that Whalley died some time previous at Mr.
Russell's. He was buried in a tomb formed of mason work
and covered with hewn stone, just without the cellar wall of
the dwelling, where his remains were found by Mr. Gaylord in
1794, when he built a house on the '^ite where Mr. Russell's
stood. There is also a tradition that Goffe died in Hadley
and was buried in the garden or near the house of Mr. Tilton.

On the 1st of September, 1075, while the people were
assembled, on a fast c]ay, at the churcli, the town was attacked
by the Indians and thrown into the greatest confusion. A
man of venerable aspect and commanding mien suddenly
appeared among them, assumed command, arrayed the men
in the best posture for defense, and by his example inspired
them with new vigor. As soon as the enemy were repelled the
stranger withdrew. Speculation concerning their deliverer was
rife, but it only ended in the conjecture that the town had been
saved by its guardian angel. The supposed angel was none
other than General Goffe, who, seeing the danger of the town,
rushed out to assist in the defense, and by his thorough knowl-
edge of military tactics, enabled the town's people to withstand
the assault. There seems to have been a suspicion in the minds
of the cotemporaneous local historians that this officer was an
important personage whom it was for the Interest of the colony
to .conceal.

Hadley is also the birth place of Maj.-Gen. Joseph Hooker,
for a time commander of the Army of the Potomac.

AMIIKUST.

101

Here was manufactured, the first broom, of broom com that
was made in this country. About 171)0 broom corn was intro-
duced into the town and grown as an ornamental phmt. At
that time brooms were made of birch. A negro named Ebar
commenced to manufacture the brush into brooms, and Levi
Dickinson sold them. This was (he origin of the broom busi-
ness, which has now become one of the most important in this
vicinity. At first Mr. Dickinson met with much opjwsition,
there being great prejudice against what was regarded as an
innovatioa. lie predicted that it would become the leading
business of the county, and if it has not been fully realized,
the time has been when it was the most important in quite
a number of tiie towns in this region. In Hadley alone
there are manufactured nearly S200,000 worth of brooms and
brushes annually. Formerly all the brush consumed in the
town was raised in the valley ; now much of it is grown in the
West.

AMHERST AND ITS COLLEGES.

Seven miles east of Northampton is Amherst and its colleges.
About a mile below, and about the same distance above, North-
ampton, the town is in full view, lying beyond Hadley and
apparently at the base of the eastern range of hills, but really
about two miles from them. Amherst College, though one of
the youngest in New England, is already in the first rank of
educational institutions. The college edifices are nine in num-
ber, grouped on the surnmit of a gentle eminence and command-
ing an unsurpassed view of the surrounding country, for miles
on every side. Part of the buildings, .dating back to the foun-
dation of the college, are old and cannot boast much in the way
of architectural beauty ; but the most of them are of compara-
tively recent construction, and besides sustaining that great test
of every building, adaptation to the use intended, are really fine
edifices in themselves, and ornaments to the town. Among
them may be mentioned the Library building, Williston Hall —

■ mi

102

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY OUIDB.

erected by the munificence of Hon. Samuel Williston, of East-
hampton, who has been a libera] patron of the college — the
Appleton Cabinet, the Observatory and Octagonal Cabinet, the
Gymnasium, and the new Dormitory. . r.

But the greatest pride of Amherst College is the cabinets ;
and any one who examines them even cursorily, will acknowl-
edge that the pride is a legitimate and just one. On entering
the college grounds, the first building that attracts the attention
is the Observatory and the Octagonal Cabinet, so-called. The
upper room of this building is entirely devoted to Prof. Charles
U. Shepard's Mineralogical Cabinet, which comprises 6000
specimens of minei-als of tlie rarest and choicest character, and
fully arranged and labeled for study. Here is aho the largest
collection of meteorites in the world, gathered by untiring indus-
try and at great expense by Prof. Shepard. The casual observ-
er, and the man of science will ahke love to hnger long in this
room ; the uneducated attracted by the beautiful colors and
unusual forms of the minerals, and their beautiful arrangement,
and the educated to study the rare and costly specimens here
exhibited. To those of a practical turn of mind, it may be
interesting to know that the value of the whole collection is
almost fabulous, and that single specimens cost thousands of
dollars. In the lower room of the same building is the Wood's
Geological Cabinet, containing 20,000 specimens of American
and foreign rocks and fossils, offering unrivaled facilities for the
students of this branch of science. Joined to the Octagonal
Cabinet and opening from it, is the Nineveh Gallery, lontainirg
relics from Nineveh, and large sculptured slabs, arranged as
they stood in the palace of Sardanapalus at Nimroud. Here,
also is a collection of coins and medals, and a quantity of Indian
relics. On the other side of the cabinet is the observatory,
containing all the necessary instruments for taking observations
of the celestial bodies.

Beyond the chapel, and on a lower terrace, is the Appleton
Cabinet, in tlie upper room of which is the Adams Zoological

tHE GREAT BEND IN THE CONNECTICUT.

103

Cabinet, containing specimens of 5,900 species of animals, and
8,000 species of shells. Here also is an Herbarium containing
more than 4,000 species of dried plants, with the seeds and
cuttings of tropical plants and trees, besides a private collection
o'f Lichens, consisting of 800 species. The lower room, one
hundred and ten feet long, and forty-five feet wide is devoted
entirely to the Ichnological Cabinet, presenting some 9000 ex-
amples of tracks in stone. This cabinet peculiarly belongs to
Amherst, and more than any other one thing, perhaps has
given a reputation to the College. There is no other cabinet
like it in the world, in extent, and very few in kind. The
science of Ichnology had its birth at Amherstr; here lived its
founder. Dr. Hitchcock, and here are gathered its richest speci-
mens, " foot-prints on the sands of time," stone histories of the
past. These tracks on the sand-stone of the Connecticut Val-
ley tell queer legends of the animal life of long ago, and
nothing can be more interesting than to spend an hour or a
day in viewing these relics, now scientifically arranged and
classified.

The Massachusetts State Agricultural College was located in
Amherst in 1863, about a mile north of the village, and some
400 acres purchased as an experimental farm. The erection
of the College buildings were commenced in 18G6, and when in
operation it is expected tht!t this will be one of the best institu-
tions of the kind in the country.

THE GREAT BEND IN THE CONNECTICUT.

■*'^' Heaving Northampton, a mile north of the town the tourist
conies to the great bend in the Connecticut — the river running
fievyn miles to gain one. The broad meadows and the village
of Hadley, extending across the peninsula from one bank of
the Connecticut to the other, are in full view. It was at fhis
place that the Farmington Canal from New Haven to North-
ampton terminated, when in operation. The patronage being
insuffic'ient it was abandoned about twenty years ago.

104

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

i!9

i7f 3! pi!

If;
fill

' i

This is the last view had of the Connecticut until the tour-
ist approaches South Vernon, nearly 30 miles distant. The river
takes a more circuitous route, bearing further to the east.

, \ ., . HATFIELD. •

Hatfield, four miles from Northampton, is a pleasant town,
on the west bank of the Connecticut. Its inhabitants are
chiefly engaged in- agriculture, fattening cattle, and raising
crops of tobacco and broom corn. The village is about two
miles east of the depot. This, like many other towns in this
region, suffered from attacks from Indians in its early days.
May 30, 1676 some six or seven hundred Indians invaded the
town, burnt twelve houses and killed a number of the inhab-
itants. A company of 25 men from Hadley crossed the river,
attacked the Indians and succeeded in killing 25. Another
attack was made Sept. 19, 1677 by 800 Indians, who killed 11
whites and carried 17 into captivity. Oliver Smith, the founder
of the Smith Charities, lived in this town. ' ,

WHATELY,

Four miles from Hatfield, is a small agricultural town. . The
village will be noticed on the hill west of the railroad.

, ■ 1. , •

' . * ' SUGAR LOAF MOUNTAIN." ' » ■

Soon after leaving Whately, Sugar Loaf Mountain will be
observed on the right. It is a conical peak of red sand-stone,
500 feet above the plain. It stands on the west bank of the
Connecticut, within two hundred yards of the river, and rises
almost perpendicularly from the meadows below. North of it
is another peak somewhat higher, but seldom visited, as the
view is less interesting. Sugar loaf stands as it were at the
head of the valley, and the southern view is remarkable for its
beauty. On the left, cast of the river, and almost underneath
the mountain, is the village of Sunderland, accessible from the
the west side by a covered toll bridge. South, and on the

.■■u^./nT1-nir1H""'-7iBS3

•'•nauBi irai,iir,Biiniiiii am imfVWilt^'^^lfUMWSl''^'^""""' ' ! ■ I . iT 1. I

106

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

same side of the river, are the villages of North Amherst, Am--
herst, Belchertown, North Hadley and Hadley. On the west
side are South Deerfield, Whately, Hatfield, Northampton and
Easthampton. Skirting the southern horizon are the lofty
peaks of Mounts Holyoke and Tom, and between them, through
the gateway to the ocean, glimmering in the sun-light, are the
church spires in Holyoke and Chicopee.

Here lies before you a great basin, divided through its center
by the Connecticut, and on either side the numerous villages
and well cultivated fields, add beauty to the scene. At no other
point is one more strongly impressed with the great wealth of
the valley. Before you, on either side of the river, are thou-
sands of dwellings and workshops, seemingly almost a continu-
ous village. On this plain in years gone by, where peace and
happiness now dwell, were enacted some terrible and bloody
scenes. Here on this very mountain peak, it is supposed that
King Philip, the terror of the early settlers, had his head-quar-
ters and from which he kept watch over the movements of the
whites below. At the southern face of the mountain was
fought a great battle, and at the right, north of the village of
South Deerfield, was one of the most terrible and heart-rending
massacres ever perpetrated by Indians. The monument erected
to commemorate the event, can be seen in front of the North
Church.

Table Rock, on the eastern side, is a feature of great interest.
It projects from the mountain side, and at a single leap one
could strike the plain hundi'eds of feet below. By way of in-
formation it might be well to state that visitors are not expected
to try that way of descending the mountain, as a source of
amusement. It is feared that stopping so suddenly, would
create an unpleasant sensation. Underneath Table Rock is
King Philip's Chair, cut from the solid rock. Three excava-
tions were made by the Indians, as is supposed, and one of
them is a good seat Some imaginative white man gave

iJiki

•^w^'wm^-' ^'if

INDIAN MASSACRES.

107

it the name, years ago, of King Philip's Chair, by which it is
now known.

East of Sugar Loaf, on the opposite side of the Connecticut,
is Mount Toby, twelve hundred feet above the river. In the
north west can be seen Shelburne Mountain, and Haystack —
the latter in Vermont.

The Mountain house, kept by Granville Wardwell, was built
by him in 1864. It stands on the summit, near the southern
point. Persons wishing to visit the mountain can leave the
cars at South Deerfield, a mile and a half from the summit.
A road has been constructed to the house.

SOUTH DEERFIELD — ^THB BATTLE OP BLOODY BROOK.

South Deerfield, a village in the town of Deerfield, at the
base of Sugar Loaf Mountain, is chiefly noted for having been
the scene of some of the most terrible Indian massacres re-
corded on the pages of history. Here was fought the battle of
Bloody Brook, the history of which is familiar to every school-
boy in the land.

The first conflict between the whites and Indians took place
in August, 1675, at the south end of Sugar Loaf, where Cap-
tains Lathrop and Beers, who had left Hadley in pursuit of
some Indians who were attempting to join King Philip, over-
took them. In this engagement 26 Indians and ten whites
were killed.

On the 18th of the following September a force of 80 soldiers,
under command of Capt. Lathrop, who had been stationed at
Hadley, was returning from Deerfield, acting as a guard to
some teams that were transporting grain to Hadley, and while
halting at a small stream north of where the village now stands,
an attack was made. The stream was then bordered by trees
on which the native grape clustered; andnvhile the men were
gathering them 700 Indians, probably under command of
Philip fell upon them and most cruelly butchered almost the

108

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUID2.

entire force. Only seven or eight escaped to tell the sad tale.
Including Capt. Lathrop and the teamsters the .number killed
was about 90. Capt. Moseley, then at Deerfield, hearing the
firing hurried to the spot, attacked the Indians, and after a
most deadly strife put them to flight. Their loss was about
96 warriors.

Nearly all of the whites who were slain were buried in one
common grave, a short distance south of where the massacre
took place. A few years ago a monument 26 feet high was
erected to commemorate the sad event. Edward Everett
delivered an eloquent address, when the corner stone was laid.

DEERFIELD — INDIAN MASSACRES.

• Passing Sugar Loaf Mountain, and the Bloody Brook Mon-
ument you soon come to Old Deei*field. Few towns in New
England suffered so much in its earlier days from Indian
depredations as did this. Within its borders, from King
Philip's war to that waged by the French and Indians nearly
150 white settlers were killed, and many others carried
into captivity. About 30 years after' the massacre of Captain
Lathrop and men at Bloody Brook, another, and if possible
more heart-rending deed was transacted at the village of Deer-
field. On the 29th of February, 1704, Maj. Hertel de Rouville,
with upwards of 340 French and Indians, arrived at Petty's
Plain, north of Deerfield meadoAvs, which the traveler will
notice towards the north-west previous to crossing the bridge
over Deerfield river. Here he halted until the next morning,
when he moved upon the village of Deerfield. The snow hav-
ing drifted to the top of the palisades which had been construc-
ted as a defense, the entire force entered the fortifications undis-
covered, the settlers being in profound sleep. The houses were
broken open, the frightened and defenseless inhabitants dragged
from their beds, and such as offered resistance were killed and
the others taken prisoners. Only a few escaped. Rev. John
Williams, the minister of the town, was awakened from his

INDIAN MASSACRES.

109

"-»

sleep and rushed to the door and found the enemy entering.
Calling to two soldiers who lodged in the house he sprang
back and seized a pistol and attempted to fire at an Indian. It
missing fire, he was seized and bound. Two of his children
and a negro woman were taken to the door and butchered.
Mr. Williams was kept standing in the cold for an hour before
being permitted to dress. His savage captors meantime
amused themselves by threatening his life and swinging their
hatchets over his head. Mrs. Williams had recently given
birth to a child, and still in a feeble condition was compelled to
dress, and herself and five children taken captives. '

An attack was made on the house of John Sheldon, which they
found hard to enter. An attempt was made by the Indians to
split the door down with their hatchets. Finally it was partly
opened and a musket was thrust in and fired. Mrs. Sheldon,
who had risen and was dressing, was hit and killed. The
house was used as a place of confinement for the prisoners
until all were gathered in from the other parts of the village.
One house was defended by seven men, for whom the women
cn^t bullets while the fight was in progress. When the sun
was about an hour high, after the houses had been plundered
and many of them set on fire, Rouville and his men started for
Canada, halting at Petty's Plain, where they had left their
packs and snow-shoes a few hours before.

Capt. Stoddard escaped from Mr. Williams' house during the
attack, by leaping from the window. He tore up a cloak, which
lie had hurriedly seized, and bound about his feet, and ran to
Hatfield. A son of Capt. Sheldon escaped the same way, and
also went to Hatfield. A force left Hatfield in pursuit of the
Indians, and they were overtaken north of Deerfield, where a
skirmish ensued, but the pursuers being much the smaller party,
were obliged to retreat — not, however, until they had lost nine
of their number. The captives taken by Rouville numbered
180, and the killed 47. The enemy's loss exceeded 40.

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Mrs. "Williams, who had become weak and exhausted on the
second day's march, was thrown down by the water while cross-
ing a rapid stream, and her savage captor, thinking it impossible
for her to continue the march, buried his tomahawk in her fore-
head, which soon caused her death. Mr. Williams was much
of the time separated from his wife, and was in advance when
she was cruelly butchered. She was the daughter of Rev.
Eleazer Mather, the first minister of Northampton, and was an
educated, refined, and noble woman.

At White River, Rouville divided his forces — one party going
up that river to Canada and another up the Connecticut. Mr.
Williams' party followed the White River route and most of his
children the other, and they barely escaped death from famine*

After arriving in Canada the French treated Mr. Williams
with great kindness, and finally he was redeemed by Gov. Vau-
dreuil. In 1706 Mr. Williams and four of his children, with
other captives to thi number of 57, embarked on board of a
ship at Quebec, sent there by Gov. Dudley, and sailed for Bos-
ton. His daughter, Eunice, seven years old when captured, he
was unable to procure, and sh< remained with the Indians.
Arriving at womanhood she married an Indian, and by him had
a family of children. From her descended ReV. Eleazer Wil-
liams, late missionary to the Indians at Green Bay, Wisconsin,
the pretended Dauphin of France. A few years after the war
she visited Deerfield with her husband and a number of other
Indians. She was dressed in Indian costume, and all induce-
ments offered her to remain were unavailing. A brother, who
was taken to Canada with her, became the first pastor in Long-
meadow. She subsequently twice visited him, but she could
not be prevailed upon to remain, on the ground that it would
endanger her soul, having become a convert to Romanism.

Mr. Williams, after his release from captivity, resumed his
ministerial labors at Deerfield. His wife, who was killed on
the way to Canada, was brought back to Deerfield, and her
remains now lie interred by the side of her husband.

w
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112

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Lossinjj states that one of^the motives which led to the
attack on Deerfleld, was to recover a bell that had been sent
from France to a Catholic Church in St. Regis, on the St.
Lawrence, and which was captured by an English vessel while
on the way, and sent to Salem and thence to Mr. Williams'
church at Deerfield. The bell was carried off by the Indians
and buried near where the village of Burlington is now situ-
ated, receiving the benedictions of the Catholic priest, who
accompanied the expedition. In the spring it was taken to St.
Regis and is still in use at the Catholic Cathedral at that place.

The " Old Indian House," known to former visitors and resi-
dents of Deerfield, showing the marks of the tomahawks upon
the door, and perfomtions made by the balls inside, was the one
in wliicu Mrs. Sheldon was killed, and where the captives were
temporarily confined. It was taken down a few years ago, but
the door has been preserved, and is now in the possession of the
Boston Museum.

Quite a number of distinguished men have been natives of
Deerfield ; among whom may be mentioned Gen. Epaphras
Hoyt, author of Antiquarian Researches, the late President
Edward Hitchcock, of Amherst College, and Maj. Gen Rufus
Saxton.

The Deerfield Academy, still in existence, was formerly one
of the most noted educational institutions in the country.

The meadows along the banks of Deerfield river arc broad
and fertile. Within a few years past Deerfield has had quite a
number of summer visitors, where there is a good hotel.

Pocumtuc Rock, on the range of mountains east of the
depot, is frequently visited. From it there is a fine view of the
valley.

DEERFIELD BRIDGE.

Leaving Deerfield you soon come to the bridge over the

Deerfield River.

It is 750 feet in length and from 48 to 90

^"- '^''"-

GREENFIELD.

113

feet above the water. It was burnt on the morning of July 17,
1864, and before night half a dozen saw mills were employed
sawing out lumber to be used in rebuilding it. AVithin three
weeks the lumber was all on the ground and within six weeks
trains were able to cross the bridge.

GREENFIELD THE ROUTE TO IIOOSIC TUNNEL.

After crossing the Deerfield River bridge the track of the
Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad, will be seen on the right.
At this place it curves to the east and follows the valley of the
Deerfield River to the Connecticut, and then to Fitchburg,
where it connects with the road to Boston. On approaching
Greenfield, in the valley of Green River, west and below the
railroad, the tourist will notice the various buildings of the.
Green River works, the first table cutlery manufactory estab-
lished in this country, J. Russell & Co., proprietors. Mr. John
Russell, the senior partner, commenced life as a blacksmilb '>ut
as all of our table cutlery was then made in England he con-
ceived the plan of opening a shop in this country. In 1834,
having sent to England for workmen who had been employed
in the great establishments at Sheffield, he began operations,
and from a small beginning he has built up a large and flourish-
ing business, now giving employment, to over 400 hands*
There is no better cutlery made, and it is found on the tables of
almost every dwelling, from the magnificent dining rooms of
Fifth Avenue, to the rude hovel of the hardy pioneer on
the Pacific slope.

Greenfield hiis a population of about 3,600 and is one of the
many thriving towns in the valley. The streets are wide, and
lined on either side by old and magnificent elms. It has long
been a favorite stopping place for summer visitors, and in and
about the town are some charming views of natural scenery.
Its drives are numerous and pleasant, adding greatly to the
interest of the town. Among the drives may be mentioned

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

that to Leyden Glen, the Gorge Road, up Green River, to Still
Water, in Deerfleld, coming back by the Old Indian House, to
Turner's Falls, to Shelburne Falls, and Hoosic Tunnel. On
Rocky Mountain, about a mile east of the town are two other ^
interesting localities — the Poet's Seat, and Bears Den, from
the former there are views of the Connecticut and the valley in
the east, the locality of Turner's Falls, the town of Montague,
and the valley lying to the west. From Bear's Den a view is
had of Deerfield and the meadows around that town.

Greenfield is the shire town of Franklin County, and is the
<ientral point of a large agricultural community. Besides
the Green River Works there are several manufacturing estab-
lishments, — the Greenfield Tool Company, just north of the
town, and west of the railroad, where are manufactured car-
penters* tools ; the Greenfield Manufacturing Company, manu-
facturers of woolen goods, and several other smaller establish-
menM.

Visitors to the Hoosic Tunnel, leave 'the cars at Greenfield
and proceed by stage through the village of Shelburne Falls,
and thence along the Deerfield River to the western end of the
tunnel.

-t^The principal hotel in Greenfield is the Mansion House,
where visitora will find good accommodations. ,ij

'« ■ , ■ H-M'f

TURNERS FALLS.

Some three or four miles east of Greenfield are Tumer^s
Falls in the Connecticut. Here the river makes a descent of
70 feet in two and one half miles, and a company have
purchased 700 acres of land in the vicinity with a view of
building a manufacturing village. A dam 1,300 feet in length
is to be built across the river, and several canals are to be
constructed.

During King Philip's war a force, headed by Capt. Turner,
marched to this place and attacked the Indians, who had gath-
ered at. the falls for the purpose of fishing. Three hundred

/ if> NORTIIPIELD. r /

*A\^X

115

were killed and drowned, but unfortunately Capt Turner was
himself shot in the latter part of the day. •

The bird tracks of the Connecticut Valley which we of so
much interest to scientiiic men were first found here. ...f,, /„^{i

« amhh^.,-K BERNARDSTON. ^ _. 7 , ,

Bernardston, seven miles fiom Greenfield, is a small village
of several hundred inhabitants. Here is located Powers' Insti-
tute, an educational institution of some note. Soon afler leav-
ing the station, going north, the qjiiurch spire in Gill can be seen
several miles eastward. The railroad curves to the east, coming
out upon the plateau above the Connecticut, where the first view
of the river is had since leaving Northampton.

NORTHFIELD.

Before reaching South Vernon, the village of Northfield will
be seen on the opposite side of the Connecticut. A branch of
the Vermont and Massachusetts Railroad passes through the
town, and the bridge over the Connecticut will be noticed north-
west of the village. In the early part of September, 1675, the
town was attacked by Indians, nine or ten persons killed, and
the other settlers driven to the fort. Shortly after the pursuit
and attack on the Indians south of Sugar Loaf Mountain, Capt.
Beers was dispatched from Hadley — the headquarters of the
English forces — to take provisions to the settlers at Northfield.
Within two miles of the fort they were surprised, and Capt.
Beers mortally wounded. The men saved themselves the best
way they could, but out of a force of 37 men only 16 returned
to Hadley.

*-rr-v -*-«^*^*v»» .<«>«JW«

SOUTH VERNON — ^THE STATE LINE.

At this place the traveler leaves Massachusetts and enters
Vermont. The boundary line between the two States passes
through the southern end of the passenger station house.
Here the Vermont and Massachusetts Eailroad, which inter-

/ i

116

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

sects the eastern and vestem line at Grout's Corner, forms a
juncti'jti with the other roads and extends to Brattleboro. The
Ashuelot Railroad, extending to Keene, N. H., 23 miles dis-
tant, also comes into this place> crossing the Connecticut on a
bridge just north of the station.

Leaving South Vernon the tourist is soon riding along upon
the banks of the Connecticut, cliarmcd with the beautiful
scenery before him, — the extended view up the valley, with
the mountain range opposite Brattleboro in the distance, and the
beautiful island covered with forest trees, in the Connecticut, in
the foreground. • -'•'■'' ' •

MONADNOCK MOUNTAIN.

Just as the train approaches Vernon station, the summit of
Monadnock, thirty miles eastward, in Jaff rey, N. H., can be seen
through the valley of the Ashuelot. It is 3,450 feet above the
sea, and is the first land seen by sailors entering Boston harbor
from European ports. In clear weather Bunker Hill Monu-
ment can be seen with the aid of the glass. From the summit
forty lakes and a large number of villages are in full view, and
the scenery around the mountain is ^rand and beautiful. A
large hotel has been erected half way to »the summit, and is
under the management of George D. Rice. To reach it from
the Connecticut Valley, the tourist should leave the train at
South Vernon, proceed to Keene by the Ashuelot Railroad, and
thence to Troy on the Cheshire Railroad, from which plaice a
stage runs to the hotel, r ve miles distant. Boston people can
leave the city by the early morning train, visit the mountain
and return home the same da". .

'.»!■<

VERNON — THE CAPTURE OF MRS. HOWE BY INDIANS.

In the early settlement of Vernon, Forts Bridgman and
Sartwell, built to protect the inhabitants from Indians, were the
scenes of bloody massacres. The former was attacked and
destroyed June 24, 174G, and on July 27, 1755, the latter was

P'r^i' 'Mf'^Fr*

VERNON.

li;

cntefed and its occupants carried into captivity. These forts
stood west of the raihoad, nearly a mile north of the depot.
Among those captured were Mrs. Jemima Howe and her seven
children. Her husband, Caleb Howe, had been previously
killed in the field while returning from work. Mrs. Howe's
upon youngest child was torn from her breast, and it perished with

hunger. Hyrself and other childr^, after a long march, reached
Canada. She spent a number of years there, but by her own
. heroism she procured her release, and with five children returned
to Vernon. Her oldest daughter was taken to France, and
marrying a Frenchman, never returned to America. Mrs.
Howe had been twice married, and both husbands had been
killed by Indians. After her return she married a third time,
Amos Tute. A son by this husband, Jonathan Tute, died from
the effects of inoculation, and was buried in the cemetery
in Vernon. Rev. Bunker Gay of Hinsdale, N. H., more noted
for eccentricity than education, wrote an epitaph, which is still
legible upon the tombstone, that has caused many a stranger to
pause before Jonathan's grave and contemplate his unfortunate
end. A few of the more remarkable lines are copied below :

"Here lies cut down, like unripe fruit,

A son of Mr. Amos Tute.
* * * * «

To death he fell a helpless prey,

On April V and Twentieth Day,

In Seventeen Hundred Seventy-Seven,

Quitting this world, we hope, for Heaven.

, Behold U|e amazing alteration,

Effected by inoculation ;
The means empowered his life to save,
Hurried him headlong to the grave." - '

FORT DUMMER — THE FIRST SETTLEMENT IN VERMONT.

Leaving Vernon you soon come to Fort Dummer, a mile
south of the village of Brattleboro, where the first settlement

118

THB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

in Vennont was made, and here was bom the first white child
in the State, John Sargent, whose descendants still reside in
Brattleboro. Fort Dummer was built in 1724 by the Colonial
authorities of Massachusetts, and named in honor of Sir Wil-
liam Dummer, then Lieut. Governor. The site of the fort
was near the river, where a dwelling house now stands directly-
east of the large farm house which can be seen near the
wooded hills west of the railroad. When the fort was built it
was supposed to be within the limits of Massachusetts, and at
that time was the northern outpost of civilization.

■^•>

' '■ ■ •• • . ' BRATTLEBORO.

Distance from New York, 194 miles; Montreal. 250; White Mountains, 125;
Lake Mempbremagog, 168; Quebec, 330.

Of the many beautiful towns on the banks of the Connecti-
cut, none present more attractions to the summer tourist than
Brattleboro. Situated on an uneven surface, and surrounded
by hills and mountains, the scenery is grand and picturesque,
and it is said, bears a striking resemblance to that of Swit-
zerland. The view from Cemetery Hill, a high point just south
of the town, is particularly fine. From it is seen the Connec-
ticut on the right, sweeping around the base of Wantastiquet
Mountain in a graceful curve, while the mountain itself, rises
abruptly from the east bank of the river to the hight of nearly
1,100 feet. To the north and west lies the village, nestling
among the shade trees, while further in the distance are
numberless hill-tops, outlined on the deep blue sky beyond.
Main Street extends north and south, parallel with the river,
and is one hundred feet above it, Furthef west are terraces
upon which are situated many of the private dwellings. The
highest point in the village is nearly three hundred feet above
the river. A mile north of the vi'lage is West River which
rises among the Green Mountains, and flows into the Connecti-
cut. In the southern part of the village is Whetstone E i-ook,

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120

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Vrhich furnishes power for the* various manufactories along its
banks. riereinBrattleboro,in 1845,wasest&blishedby Dr Robert
"Wesselhoeft, a distinguished German, the third Water-Cure in
this country, and which for a long time received extensive pat-
ronage, some of the most emment men in the country coming
here for treatment* Late years Brattleboro has been a favorite
resort for summer visitors and frequently there are from 600 to
800 strangers in the town. The drives in and around the
village are remarkabln, winding along the banks of impetuous
little streamlets, through beautiful groves, and over high hills.
A new drive ^an be taken every day for nearly a month, with-
out going outside of a radius of four miles, and all of them
have peculiar features of interest. ' '

The Vermont Asylum for the Insane is located in the north
part of the town, and is said to be one of the best conducted in-
stitutions of the kind in the country. It was founded in 1834
by Mrs. Anna Marsh of Hinsdale, N. H., who died leaving by
will, $10,000 for that purpose. The Asylum was incorporated
and is managed by a board of trustees in accordance with the
provisions of the will. The State of Vermont has contributed
at various times $23,000 to assist in establishing the institution,
and rebuilding the main edifice which was destroyed by fire in
1862. The Asylum owns 600 acres of land in one body,
adjoining the grounds on which the buildings are located, and
about as many more of woodland. The labor on the farm is
mostly done, voluntarily, by the patients, who are greatly bene-
fitted by it. The property of the Asylum is now valued at
$150,000, all but $33,000 of which has been accumulated by the
good management of the institution. Dr. Wm. H. Rockwell,
the present Superintendent, has served ki that position since the
Asylum was first opened, coming here from the Insane Retreat
at Hartford, Connecticut, where he was assistant physician*

The village is the residence of Ex-Gov. Frederick IIoI-
brook, who was Governor of Vermont during the first two
years of the Rebellion, and to whom much is due for the quick

BRATTLEBORO.

> iTT

121

response Vermont made to the call for troops ; Gen. J. W.
Phelps, a graduate of West Point, a participator in the Florida,
Mexican and Utah wars and also in the Great Rebellion, serv-
ing with Gen. Butler in the Department of the Gulf; and
Cliarles C. Frost, the Scientific Shoemaker, who, besides con-
ducting his usual business, has acquired several languages
and become one of the most noted botanists in the country.
Brattleboro is also the home of Larkin G. Mead, Jr., the Ver-
mont Sculptor, who, for several years, has resided in Italy. Mr.
Mead, when a lad, modeled a statue in sn^ in the last night
of the year, at the head of Main street, and when the villagers
went forth to their labor New Year's morning, they beheld the
"Recording Angel," with tablet in hand, apparently in the act
of recording the events of the opening year. This first attempt
at sculpture gained him notoriety at once, and his first patron
was the late Nicholas Longworth, the Cincinnati millionaire.
Subsequently the State gave him a commission to execute in
marble a full length statue of Ethan Allen, which has been
placed in the vestibule of the State House at Montpelier. It
was eminently fitting, as well as quite poetical, that Vermont
should give a commission to a gifted son to perpetuate the out-
ward semblance of her greatest hero, in her greatest product —
marble. '

Many distinguished people have made Brattleboro a summer
resort. Daniel Webster, when United States Senator, from
Massachusetts, used frequently to visit the place, and it is said
that the policy to be pursued in Congress, which led to his great
debate with Hayne, was originated here, while stopping with
the late Hon. Jonathan Hunt, then member of Congress.

The population of Brattleboro is not far from 4,000.

THE BRATTLEBORO HOUSE.

The hotels at Brattleboro furnish good accommodations for
the tourist. The Brattleboro Hoiise on Main Street lias long
6 V

•,iT'«p'»™*rnns'T',wT"

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122

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

been known as one of the best kept houses in Vermont, and its
proprietor, Chas. G. Lawrence, has no superior as a caterer to
public taste.

The "Wesselhoeft House, by P. B. Francis & Co., is one of
the oldest and best summer houses in the Connecticut Yallej,

"■,X-

and none have had so many patrons. It was formerly the
Wesselhoeft Water-cure, but of late years it has been opened
for the accommodation of summer mip«^*«'.

i..iM

THE BRATTLEBORO HOUSE.

123

' DISCOVERY OF AN ELEPHANT's TUSK. • >

In 1865 a workman, while digging muck on a farm in Brat-
tleboro, found, about five feet below the surface, a part of the
tusk of an elephant, forty-four inches in length, eighteen in cir-
cumference at the largest, and eleven at the smallest end. It
was in a fair state of preservation, and was taken to Montpelier
and placed in the historical rooms at the State House. It be-
longed to a species of elephant long since extinct, that inhabited
the northern part of North America, having w^andered -across
the Siberian plains to the Arctic Ocean and Behrings Strait, and
beyond, to this country, south, to about the parallel of 40
degrees. Their bones show them to have been about twice the
weight and one-third taller than the modem species. The tusk
teeth and some bones of one of these elephants were found in a
muck bed at the summit of the Green Mountains, in Mount
Holly, in 1848, by workmen who were building the railroad from
Bellows Falls to Rutland.

: wantastiquet akd mine mountains.

Opposite Brattleboro, on the east side of the Connecticut, are
Wantastiquet and Mine Mountains, the former rising from the
river to the hight of 1,061 feet. The latter extends east-
ward from Wantastiquet, and is only separated from it by a
narrow gorge. During the latter part of the last century, a
party sunk a shaft many feet into the solid rock on Mine
Mountain, in search of silver, which they had incredulously
been led to believe existed there, but after the expenditure of
large sum of money the enterprise was abandoned.

- WEST RIVER. — GEN. STARK.

Leaving Brattleboro, the railroad continues along the bank of
the Connecticut, and for some distance the mountain scenery on
the opposite side is exceedingly beautiful. About a mile north
of the village you cross West River on a bridge at its mouth.

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124

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUDE.

Its Indian name is "Wantastiquet, signifying straight, or arrowy.
It rises among the Green Mountains, and is a very rapid stream.
A little way north of West River, near the dwelling seen on
the opposite side, Gen. Stark crossed the Connecticut with an
Aid, on his way from Manchester, to fight the battle of Ben-
nington. The gallant General was taken across the river by the
ferryman, in a little old canoe, and soon afterwards achieved a
great victory over the invaders of our country.

DmiMERSTON, PUTNEY, AND EAST PUTNEY. •'""''*'' "'^

Continuing north, the small stations of Dummerston, Putney,
and East Putney are passed. Just north of Putney, the vil-
lage will be seen west o/.' the railroad. Opposite East Putney
is the village of Westmoreland, in New Hampshire, one of tlie
churches standing upon the hill north-west of the village. Above
the church can bfc seen the track of the Cheshire railroad,
curving eastward. - . r. r.^ ' . -

■(}

"WESTMINSTER — THE FIRST BLOOD OP THE REVOLUTION.

About twenty miles from Brattleboro and four from Bellows
Falls, is Westminster. This is a place of great historic inter-
est, as here begun the opening scenes of the American Revo-
lution. A bitter quarrel had sprung up between the royal
authorities in New York and the people who had purchased
land in Vermont under the New Hampshire grants — the latter
not wishing to acknowledge the illegitimacy of the authority
imder which they held their titles. It was finally determined
that the New York royal court should not hold its approaching
session at Westminster, and after tryii«g to dissuade the judge
from holding the court, who gave some equivocal promises, the
people, unarmed, seized the court house on the afternoon of the
day that the court was to be held. The royal authorities, nut
liking to be put down by what they considered a mob, attempted
to enforce their rights by arms. At eleven o'clock at night,
while the people of Westminster had possession of the court

■i||v I ■■ uf ij|i«HP>Vf( mw'^*

.XOinV) Y5fJ WALPOLE. >;<> MHT

125

house, the royal authorities fired into it, mortally wounding
"William French and Daniel Houghton. This occurred March
13th, 1775. French was only 22 years of age, and was a resi-
dent of Brattleboro. Previous to the attack on the court
house, he went from Brattleboro to Dumraerston, where he
joined the Dummerston Rangers. He was buried in Westmin-
ster, and the grave is still seen in the village cemetery. The
original grave stone is in existence, and is kept in the okl
church. The court house stood at the top of the hill in
the highway, about a mile south of the depot. The principal
men of the royalist party were seized and carried under
escort of Col. Benjamin Bellows, the founder of Walpole, to
Northampton, Mass., and lodged in jail. The New York
authorities however, afterw^ards procured their release. ii/v-»*f'*
'** It is claimed that the Westminster massacre so enraged Gen.
Gage, at Boston, the British commander, showing as he thought
the determined spirit of the people to resist British authority,
that he was induced to march to Lexington and inflict the blow
which opened the Revolution. If so, Westminster is entitled
to the honor of being the birth place of American liberty. (.<

The oldest church now in Vermont is still stfuiding in West-
Aiinster, and can be seen from the cars — the only one in the
village having a spire. It was erected in 1770. It is now used
as a shop and town hall.

The legislature of Vermont held some of its first sessions in
the town, and the first printing office in the State was estab-
lished here in 1778, and the first paper, the Vermont Gazette,
inl781.

The village lies about a mile south of the depot, upon broad
table land, and is very pleasantly situated.

WALPOLE THE HOME OF THE BELLOWS FAMILY.

Opposite Westminster, lying above the river, is the pleasant
village of Walpole, one of the prettiest and ueatest in the val-

' !'■' i^

126

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

ley of the Connecticut. The streets are wide, and the dwellings
large and elegant. There is little business in the town, and, it
is chiefly noted as the home of the Bellows family, descendants
of Col. Benjamin Bellows, the founder of the town, who came
here from Lunenburg, Mass., more than a hundred years ago.
The members of the family who iiave been abroad and secured
wealth, have usually come back to the old home to spend the
remainder of their days. Among those who have summer resi-
dences here is Rev. Dr. Henry W. Bellows, of New York, a
great grandson of the founder of the town. His cottage can be
seen just south of the village, near a large brick dwelling.

The descendants who wished to honor their distinguished
ancestor, gathered from all parts of the country in 1854 and
erected a marble monument in the village cemetery to his mem-
ory. An address was delivered by Rev. Dr. Bellows, giving an
account of the early settlement of the place. ,

Col. Bellows received a grant of the township of Gov.
Wentworth, and came to Walpole in 1752, where he built a
fort upon an impregnable point, overlooking the Connecticut, a
mile north of the village, near the house now owned by Thomas
Bellows. He organized a town government, and seems to have
been moderator, town clerk, and selectman — all in one. He
was a marked man, and rendered great service in enlisting and
equipping men for the Revolution.

Before Col. Bellows built his mill, he was obliged to carry
his com to Northampton, Mass., to have it ground, going down
in boats in the Spring, and returning with meal and other
stores.

Within the last few years Walpole has become quite a place
of resort during the summer, and there is a large boarding
house on the hill, and a hotel in the village, where good accom-
modations are provided.

Two miles north of the village is a mineral spring, where
bathing houses have been built. It has been named Abenaquis,
after the Indian tribe who inhabited this region.

JOHN KILBURN.

127

Travelers who have been abroad state that the scenery
around Walpole bears a striking resemblance to that around
Berne, in Switzerland. P>om Derry Hill can be seen Saddle"
back, Monadnock, Ascutney, and the whole Green Mountain
range. Blanchard and Ravine Falls, near the village, have
many admirers among those stopping in the town. - ,

AN INDIAN ATTACK THE HEROISM OF JOHN KILBURN.

John Kilburn was another of the early settlers of Walpole.
When Col. Bellows came to the town he found Kilburn in
a garrisoned house, near Cold liivei', about two miles north of
Walpole. In the summer of 1755 two men were shot by
Indians. "Shortly before this," says Dr. Bellows in his
address, " an Indian by the name of Philip had visited Kil-
burn's house in a friendly way, pretending to be in want of pro-
visions. He was supplied with flints and flour and dismissed.
It was ascertained that this same Indian had visited all the
settlements on the river, doubtless to procure information of the
state of their defenses. Word came from Governor Shirly
that 500 Indians were collecting in Canada whose aim was the
butchery and extinction of the whole white population on
the river. ? .

Col. Benj. Bellows had at this time about 30 men at his fort,
about half a mile south of Kilburn's, but too distant to afford
him any aid. About noon on the 17th day of August, 1755,
Kilburn and his son John, in his eighteenth year, a man by the
name of Peak and his son, were returning home to dinner {vm.
the field, when one of them discovered the red legs of the
Indians among the alders, 'as thick as grasshoppers.' They in-
stantly made for the house, fastened the doors and prepared for
an obstinate defense. Kilburn's wife Ruth, and his daughter
Hetty, were already in the house. In about fifteen minutes,
the savages were seen crawling up the bank east of the house,
and as they crossed a foot path, one by one, 197 were counted;

128

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

tirtiS ::

I i

about the same number it afterward proved had remained
in ambush, near the mouth of Cold River, but joined the
attacking party soon. ... ...... .,,,..>, .•!>.

The savages appeared to have learned that Col. Bellows and
his men were at work at his mill, about a mile east, on what is
now called the Blanchard Brook, near wliere it was crossed by
the Drewsville road, and they intended to waylay and murder
them before attacking Kilburn's house. Col. Bellows and his
men were now returning home, each with a bag of meal on liis
back, when the dogs began to growl and betray the neighbor-
hood of an enemy. The Colonel, knowing the language of the
dogs and the wiles of the Indians, instantly adopted his policy.
He directed his men, throwing off the meal, to crawl carefully
to the rise of the land, and on reaching the top of the bank
to spring together to their feet, give one whoop and instantly
drop into the sweet fern. The movement had the desired effect
to draw the Indians from their ambush. At the sound of the
whoop, fancying themselves discovered, the* whole body of
the savages rose from the bushes in a semi-circle round the
path Col. Bellows was to have followed. His men, fired upon
the Indians, and they were so disconcerted that they darted
into the bushes and disappeared. The Colonel, sensible of his
unequal force, hurried his men off by the shortest cut to the
fort, and prepared for its defense. . . .. , ... .-•. .

'' The Indians then determined to take vengeance upoti a
weaker party, and soon appeared on the eminence east of Kil-
burn's house. Here the same treacherous Philip, who had
visited him and partaken of his hospitality so short a time
before, came forward under the shelter of a tree, and summon-
ed th ^ little garrison to surrender. * Old John, Young John,'
was his cry, ' I know ye, come out here. We give you good
quarter.' * Quarter ! ' vocifbrated old Kilbum, in a voice of
thunder, ' You black rascals, begone, or we'll quarter you.'
It was a brave reply for four men to make to four hundred !

JOHN KILBURN.

129

Philip returned, and after a short consultation, the war-whoop
rang out, as if, to use the langir "tj of an car-witness, "all the
devils in hell had been let loose. Kilburn was lucky and pru-
dent enough to get the first fire, before the smoke of the battle
perplexed his aim, and was confident he s.iw Philip fiiU. The
fire from the little garrison was rciumed by a pliower of balls
from the savages, who rushed forward to the attack. The roof
next to the eminence from which the attack was made, was a
perfect "riddle-sieve." Some of the Indians fell at once to
butchering the cattle ; others to a wanton destruction of the
grain, while the larger part kept up an incessant fire at the
house. Meanwhile Kilburn and his men — aye, his women—-
were all busily at work. Their powder they poured into their
hats for greater convenience ; the women loaded the guns, of
which they had several spare ones — all of them being kept hot
by incessant use. As their stock of lead grew short, they sus-
pended blankets over their heads to catch the balls of the ene-
my, which penetrated one side of the roof and fell short of the
other. These were immediately run 1 ; these Spartan women
into bullets, and before they had time to cool, were sent back to
the enemy from whom they came. Several attempts were made
to force the door, but the unerring aim of the marksmen within
sent such certain death to their assaliants, that they soon desis-
ted from their efforts. Most of the time the Indians kept
behind logs and stumps, and avoided as they best could, the fire
of the little Gibraltar. The whole afternoon, even till sun-
down, the battle continued, until, as the sun set, the savages
unable to conquer so small a fortress, discouraged and baffled*
forsook the ground, and as was supposed, returned to Canada,
abandoning the expedition on which they had set out. It is not
unreasonable to suppose that their fatal experience here, through
the matchless defense of those Walpole heroes and heroines,
was instrumental in saving hundreds of the dwellers on the
frontier from the horrors of an Indian massacre.
6*

130

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Seldom did it fall to the lot of the early settlers to win a
more brilliant crown than John Kilburn earned in this glorious
exploit. Peek got the only wound of his party, receiving a
ball in the hips, from exposure at a port-hole, which unhappily,
for lack of surgical care, caused his death on the fifth day. The
Indians never again appeared in Walpole, although the war did
not teiminate until eight years afterward. John Kilburn lived
to see his fourth generation on the stage and enjoying the ben-
efits of a high civilization on the spot he had rescued from the
savages. A plain stone in Walpole burying ground commemo-
rates his departure, and speaks his eulogy in a brief, expressive
phrase. - . - ^

His son John last visited the scenes of his youthful exploits
in 1814, and died at Shrewsbury, Vt., in 1822.

What amount of destruction Kilburn made among the sava-
ges it was impossible to tell, as they carefully carried off and
concealed their dead." x. '^ ^ .,

MOUNT KILBURN — THE GOVERNOR'S CALF PASTURE.

Opposite Bellows Falls village, in New Hampshire, is Mount
Kilburn, formerly known as Fall Mountain. It is little over
800 feet high, and from the summit a fine view of the village
and the distant mountain peaks, is had. The early settlers
gave it the name of Fall Mountain from the fact that at its
tasi are the Great Falls in the Connecticut. In 1856 Presi-
dent Hitchcock and the Students of Amherst and Middlebury
Colleges met at Bellows Falls and christened it Mount Kilburn,
in honor of the hero who fought the Indians so gallantly from
his little fort, just below the south end of the mountain. This
mountain is situated in Walpole, and was included in the
grant to Col. Benj. Bellows, the founder of the town. • Quite
an amusing anecdote is related concerning it, which is given
below :

" Grov. Wentworth, in his grants of land reserved 500 acres
in each township, and in makmg his selection in Walpole, con-

BELLOWS PALLS.

131

suited Colonel Bellows, as to what was the mOst favorable
portion to lay ^laim to,— expressing his own decided preference
for five hundred acres in the immediate neighborhood of the
Great Falls as the probable site of the future settlement. The
Colonel very honestly told him that the land thereabout would
make a very good calf pasture, but nothing better. The Gov-
ernor, perhaps imagining that the Colonel wished to appropri-
ate these lands to himself, and so discouraged his own selection
of them, at once resolved to lay his claim there, and his 500
acres on the rocky sides of Fall Mountain were for some time
jocosely called ' the Governor's calf pasture.' "

Almost worthless when selected, portions of the 500 acres
have become exceedingly valuable, owing to the superior pine
timber found there. , .

' ' ■ BELLOWS FALLS.

DietaQce from New Tork, 220 miles; Montreal, 225; White Mountains, 101;
•► Lake Momphrcmagog, 171; Quebec, 311.

In approaching Bellows Falls the attention of the tourist will
be called to the river and the many objects of interest in the
vicinity. For a considerable distance below the falls, the river
is very rapid, and presents a beautiful appearance, and at no
place along its whole course is there so much wild gnmdeur.
Above the village the river curves to the eastward and passes
close to the base of Mount Kilburn, which rises precipitously
to the hight of 828 feet. It then curves slightly towards the
west and rushes wildly over the rocky bed, down through a
narrow gorge, and out into a broader channel below. A large
rofk divides the stream into two channels, each about 90 feet
wide. In low water, the river flows into the western channel
and is contracted to about 1 6 feet in width. The river in pass-
ing over the several rapids makes a descent of 42 feet. The
toll and railroad bridges cross the river over the falls, and
from the former a good view of them is had. Below the
bridge numberless pot-boles will be observed of various dimeo,-

132

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

^1,

sions, wOm in the solid rock. West of the station rises a high
hill, and beyond it is a valley, only a few feet above the river
bank. It is supposed by geologists that this was once the bed
of the Connecticut, and the many terraces in the vicinity
strengthen this opinion. It is also claimed that the region
above the falls was once a vast lake, and that its outlet flowed
eastward into the Merrimac, from a point further north.

Bellows Falls received its name from Col. Bellows, the
founder of Walpole, and it was fonnerly a great fishing place
with the Indians, v.'ho came here to catch shad and salmon.
The latter were so n^imerous, even after the whites settled in
this region that workmen in making yearly contracts for their
labor stipulated that they should not be obliged to eat salmon
oftener than twice a week — a condition, which at the present
time they would hardly be so particular to require.

The first bridge across the Connecticut was built at this
place in 1785, and was 365 feet in length. For eleven years it
was the only bridge across this river. ' '

A canal, nearly half a mile in length, was constructed many
years ago around the fiills on the western side, and it was
thought that a large manufacturing village would at some
future day be built here. Its growth, however, has been quite
slow, although there are now a number of firms extensively
engaged in manufacturing. , ^ - .

Summer tourists have, of late years, spent considerable time
here. The drives in the vicinity are extensive and very pleas-
ant. A favorite one with old residents is to Warner's Pond, in
Alstead, N. H., where picnics are held.

THE ISLAND HOUSE. .

This hotel, kept by Mr. Charles Towns, is one of the best in
the State, and has long been a favorite with tourists. It is
pleasantly situated on the eminence east of the station and
overlooks the river and valley. The rooms are large and con-

REFRESHMENT ROOMS.

'■v > .»

133

^ ■ . •!

' .*/i.

. I'.-

" " THE ISLAND HOUSE.

veniently arranged. A livery stable is kept in connection with
the hotel.

. ..3 . ..\. .u , REFRESHMENT ROOMS.

Tourists who do not remain over can get warm meals at the
extensive refreshment rooms in the station, very neatly kept
by Mr. F. A. George. The trains going north stop here long
enough to give passengers time for dinner.

The Rutland and Burlington, and the Cheshire Railroads in-
tersect the Valley line at this place.

A MRS. PARTINGTON ON THE CARS.

One of those ridiculous incidents, which are sufficient to pro-
duce a smile at a funeral, occurred on the Cheshire Railroad,
early in the winter of 1865. A lady of venerable aspect
appeared on the platform at the depot in Bellows Falls, with
the inevitable band box and bundle. She paced up and down
the platform in a very happy frame of mind, beguiling herself
in humming a cradle song, and to all appearance was at peace
with herself and the " rest of mankind." In due season Con-
ductor H. H. Stone appeared and sliouted " all aboard." The
old lady not heeding the admonition, he inquired her proposed

II If?:

M «

1 •

■.Mki

134

THE COKNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

destination. " Going to Fitchburg, sir," was her reply. " "Well,
madam, you had better get into those cars if you want to go to
Fitchburg." " What ! doesn't this whole consam go ? " allud-
ing to the depot. " Not to-day, madam ; you had better get
into that car." " Wall, now. Mister, is that so ? Jist carry this
bundle — I never rid a rod on the railroad in my life." The old
lady was escorted on board and the train departed. Passing
the summit and descending into the Ashuelot Valley, near
Keene, the passenger train overtook the freight, out of steam
and " stalled " in the deep snow. It moved up to the freight
train and was about to give it aid, when down came an engine
under full headway. A severe snow storm was raging, and so
completely obscured the track that the signal man who had
been sent back was not seen. It thundered on at a fearful
rate down the grade, and in an instant had run its whole length
completely inside of the rear passenger car. Several persons
were instantly killed, and others were groaning horribly from
injury and fright. The passengers leaped out of doors and
windows, and for a while great consternation prevailed. The
conductor as he saw nothing of the old lady, thought it more
than probable that she had been killed. He entered the car in
search of her, and to his great astonishment found * her sitting
quietly alone. Notwithstanding she had made a complete som-
ersault over the seat in front, and her bundle had gone uncere-
moniously down the aisle, she maintained a wonderfully placid
expression upon her countenance, exhibiting neither fear nor
astonishment. " Are you hurt ? " inquired the conductor.
" Hurt, why ? " said the old lady. " We have just been run
into by an engine, two or three passengers have been killed and
several othera severely injured," replied the conductor. " La
me ; I didn't know but that was the way you always stopped"

GOING NORTH.

Leaving Bellows Falls, you cross the Connecticut River into
New Hampshire, and continue on the east side of the river
until you reach the bridge at Windsor, 26 miles distant.

hiiy

.•f<fji,> •« CHARLE8T0WN. >?«>(> JITTT

135

^t* CHARLE8T0WN. i. .

Passing the small station at South Charlestown, yon come to
Charlestown, eight miles from Bellows Falls. The village,
which will be seen east of the railroad, is one of the oldest in
western New Hampshire. It was formerly known as Number
Four, and in 1747 a garrison of 30 men, commanded by Capt.
Phineas Stevens, was attacked by 400 French and Indians,
who, after making three days siege were obliged to abandon the
project and return to Canada. When commanded to surrender
by the French General, who boasted of his superior numbers
and of the probable massacre that would take place when the
fort was captured, Capt. Stevens very coolly replied : " I can
assure you my men are not afraid to die." Sir Charles
Knowles, a British naval officer at Boston, when he learned of
Capt. Stevens bravery presented him an elegant sword, and
from this circumstance, when the township was incorporated it
was named Charlestown. The village is very pleasant, and
for several years quite a number of city people have spent the
summer here.

Passengers for Springfield, Vermont, which is six miles
west, leave the railroad at this place. Springfield is a large
manufacturing town, and is one of the most picturesque places
in Vermont. The scenery along Black River, in and around
the town, is remarkable for its beauty and wildness.

NORTH CHARLESTOWN.

At this station, five miles from 4!5harlestown, a fine view
of Ascutney Mountain is had, west of the Connecticut. Tho
scenery, on the west, in the valley is exceedingly picturer ^ue. ,

' .. CLAREMONT.

Twelve miles from Windsor, and fourteen from Bellows Falls
is Claremont Station. The village is two miles east of the
railroad. It contains some four or five thousand inhabitants,
and there ir a large manufacturing interest in the place.

136

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

SUGAB RITEB BRIDGE.

Soon after leaving Claremont Station, you come to he
bridge over Sugar River. This stream furnishes water power
for the manufactories at Claremont. The bridge is 600 feet
long and 105 above the river. On the west bank of the Con-
necticut, from this place, will be seen Ascutneyville, a small vil-
lage in Wethersfield.

ASCUTNEY MOUIiTAIN.

This mountain which is seen on the west side of the Con-
necticut is 3,320 feet high and is situated in Windsor and
"Wethersfield. It is an isolated peak, and its bold and rocky
summit forms a prominent feature in the landscape for many
miles around. Three deep valleys course their way down the
western side of the mountain, and from this fact it is stated that
the Indians called it Ascutney, signifying, " Three Brothers."
The view from the summit is the most grand and extensive of
any in Eastern Vermont. Below is the beautiful Connecticut,
winding itself among the hills and forests, v^hile hundreds
of farm houses and villages are scattered seemingly over a
vast plain. A road has been constructed from Windsor to the
summit, a distance of five miles, and horses and guides can be
obtained of Mr. Cushing of the Windsor House at Windsor.
There is a rude house on the mountain, to protect the tourist
in -case of storm.

WINDSOB.

Distance from N«w York, 246%iilcs ; Montreal, 199 ; White Mountains, 75;
Lake Memphremagog, 145; Quebec, 285.

i From Sugar River Bridge to Windsor the scenery is grand
and beautiful. Below, on the west, is the Connecticut, while
still beyond rises the lofty sumnut of Ascutney, the grim
sentinel of the valley. Crossing the bridge over the Connecti-
cut, which was carried away by ice in the spring of 1866>
you again enter Vermont. Here nestling among the shade

•

.cr<:fr;i;.i •y

HAUTLAND*' ''.''''^'' SfHi*

137

Av rvt 1^

ti ^♦?;,

trees upon the hillside is the ancient and beairtiful town of
Windsor. West of the depot, fronting on Main Street, which
extends north and south, is seen the United States Court
House, built several years ago by the Government at great ex-
pense. It is also occupied as a Post Office. The Vermont
State Prison is located at this place, on a street west of Main.
The average number of convicts is about 80, and they are em-
ployed in manufacturing scythe snaths. Is not Vermont set-
ting a bad example by teaching her " crooked sticks," who are
sent to prison to b^ made straight, to make straight sticks
crooked? ; " ^'' "'""'' "''" ^^'^'^ '^ ^•^^'•^^'

The constitution of Vermont was formed and adopted in
this town, and the building in which the convention was held is
still standing on Main Street, occupied as a shop, '"'"i^n'nrt'i"? •

Hon. Wm. M. Evarts and E. W. Stoughton, distinguished
members of the New York bar, have summer residences here.
Mr. Evarts owns a large farm north of the village, the exten-
sive buildings on which are seen just after leaving the depot,

west of the railroad, r .j^^,,„,m ...,/^ ^ -u.-r.-r. ^ ,
Formerly there was considerable manufactuhrig in the town,

and during the rebellion Lamson & Goodnow were employed

to make guns for the Government. This firm is now engaged

on other work.
Cornish hills in New Hampshire, opposite Windsor, rise

to cbnsiderable hight, and the view from them is very extensive.

K»>»*fc**l '

Ot*b^l f VktV -t r^A^^f.^^^..^^.

HARTLAND.

•vnnjitiji0jii_

Four miles north of Windsor is Hartland. Before reaching
the depot you cross Lull's Brook, which is seen coursing its
way down a narrow valley, and from the cars can be seen a
beautiful waterfall. This stream received its name from Tim-
othy LuH, of Dammerston, the firfet settler of the town, who,
whh his wife and children, came up the Connecticut in a canoe,
in 1763, and landed at the mouth of the brook. Taking out a

ri '

138

THE CONNECTICUT VALLBT GUIDE.

bottle and iM^eaking it in presence of his little family, he gave
his own name to the little stream, by which it has since been
known. The valley in this vicinity is rich in alluvial deposits,
but after passing the depot the aspect of the country is soon
changed, the soil now being light and sandy.

NORTH HARTLAND.

This station is four miles from Hartland, and six from White
River Junction. Passing North Hartland you come to the
valley of Otta Quechee River. Here the railroad crosses that
stream on a bridge 650 feet long and about 80 feet above the
water. As you pass over the bridge you will notice the beau-
tiful waterfall west of the railroad, where the Quechee makes a
perpendicular descent of about fifteen feet. This river is of
Indian origin, and was formerly called Ottageechee, taking its
name from the aanner in which the water tumbles and whirls
down the rocks at the falls. •

- » r .^j

WHITE RIVER JUNCTION.

Distance from New York, 260 miles; Montreal, 185; White Mountains, 61 ;
Lake Memphremagog, 105 ; Quebec, 271.

Before reaching the station the village of Lebanon, in New
Hampshire, on the east bank of the Connecticut, will be seen
in full view. The most prominent building is Tilden Female
Seminary, a flourishing institution, under the management of
Hiram Orcutt, Esq., of the Glenwood Semmary, at West
Brattleboro.

White River Junction is one of the most important railroad
stations on the line. From this point trains from the North,
South, East, and West, meet. The Vermont Central Railroad
here passes into the valley of White River, and pursues a more
westerly course, while the Northern New Hampshire Road,
forming a junction with it, crosses the Connecticut and connects
at Concord, N. H., with other roads leading into Boston. The
Connecticut and Fassumpsic Rivers Railroad extends from this

THE EATING HOUSE AND HOTEL.

139

place in a northerly course, crossing White River at its mouth,
just north of the station, to Newport, on Lake Memphremagog,
passing through the rich and fertile valleys of the Ck)nnecticut
and Passumpsic Rivers. Travelers to the White Mountains
take this railroad to Wells River where they connect with the
railroad to Littleton and thence by stage to the various points
in the mountains.

In going either to the White Mountains, or Mount Mansfield
there is no change of cars at White River Junction. If the
tourist is going to the White Mountains he should take
a seat in the forward car before reaching the Junction, and if
to Mount Mansfield, in the rear, or one of the Vermont
Central cars.

For a description of the route from White River Junction to
White Mountains, Lake Memphremagog and Quebec, see
page 171.

THE EATING HOUSE AND HOTEL.

The trains stop at White River Junction for dinner, and
in the depot can be procured good meals. A table is spread in
the dining hall adjoining the refreshment rooms, and here
the wants of the inner man are abundantly supplied. Early
fruits and vegetables are furnished in their season, and at
few places on the line can so good a dinner be obtained.

The proprietors, the Messrs. Barrens, also keep the Junction
House, a few rods west of the depot, where the tourist can
remain over night and take the morning train for the White
Mountains, if he prefers.

WHITE RIVER.

Toul . is for Mount Mansfield and points on the Vermont
Central Railroad, on leaving White River Junction enter the
valley of White River, keeping close upon the bank of that
stream. The Indian name of the river is Kaskadnac, signify-
ing white pebbles, with which the bottom is strown. This i3

140

THB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

''■11

the largest river in Vermont, on the east side of the mountains.
At its mouth it is quite broad, but very shallow.

,,,:, M ..,;of. -V; WOODSTOCK.^ ^\^^ ^^^"*'^^» ^ft"'^"?

''•''••'•'tit.. ' . ( • I I V' • . I . .... -

This is a small station, three miles from White River Junc-
tion. Passengers for 'Woodstock, the shire town of Windsor
County, leave the cars at this place. The scenery continues
picturesque and beautiful and a short distance west of the sta-
tion, White lliver is crossed on a bridge 650 feet in length.

S^AJ: bk/orfa ttrf ffrt ^., ^„;^ .; 4^..

•J WEST nARTFORD.

Eight miles from White River Junction is the station of
West Hartford. The village is small and lies between the
railroad and the river. The high, steep hills, and green pas-
tures give a pleasant aspect to the surrounding scenery. The
river is more narrow than at its mouth, and assumes ^ torrent
like character.

T I -^ •. » SHARON.

liefore reaching ttus station White River is crossed on a
bridge 400 feet long. The depot is on the south side of the
river and the village on the north. The town was settled in
1765 by emigrants from Connecticut. , ,

J^^.UUuo .M 1 g^^^^ ROYALTON.^'^ «^<^ '^'' ^'^^i'y --^

Here is a quiet, pretty village, situated in a valley of consid-
erable extent. A large hotel fronts the village green upon the
south, a short distance from the railroad. This station is 18
miles from White River Junction, and is the first stopping place
for express trains | oing west. Soon after leaving the station
the river is crossed uu a bridge 600 feet long, built in 1865.

^ . i;. ao.|ii,. SOYALTON. ^^.^.,^ ^^^.^^^^^ ^ ^,^ ;_

•V The village is south of the depot, and contains several stores.
In 1780 this town was attacked by Iiniians, who burnt twenty
houses, killed two whites, and took twenty-five prisoners. The

'i)it:

.JTm-rn TV J BETHEL.

.»y»«-*»^»« •^•KiK

141

Indians were on their way to make an attack on Newbury and
capture Lieut. Whiteomb, who had wantonly shot Gen. Gordon,
a British oflScer, between Chambly and St. Johns, and robbed
him of his watch and sword. Meeting some whites in the
woods, they misled the Indians by stating that there was a large
force at Newbury, which had the effect to turn their attention
to Royalton. ^. '

M^i *]l»> ihutiA rt'.f'-w «*in A'%,1 BETHEL. ^ f,^._..»> 4 . _il vjr ..-«t

North of the village, and directly in rear of it, the hills rise
abruptly to the hight of nearly 500 feet. There is a bank and
several stores in the town. This township was the first one in
the State, granted by the government of Vermont. All express
trains stop at this station, rf^f ^i ,|j^^| /,jf|

WEST RANDOLPH.

This is one of the largest and most thriving places on the
route east of the summit. The buildings, many of which have
recently been erected, are tastefully built, and the whole place
his the appearance of prosperity. Passengers for Chelsea, the
shire town of Orange County, l^ave the railroad at this station.
The old village of Randolph is three miles north of here, where
is located the Baudolph Grammar School.

•"' BRAINTREE. t ror^sci^rf

Upon reaching Braintree, the general aspect of the country
is changed from beautifully rounded hills and luxuriant vegeta-
tion to a rocky and mountainous region. The narrow valley
and general wildness of the view give beauty and grandeur to
the scene. «fj*lmf

mok 'v*.K ji/iH T

ROXBURY — THE SUMMIT OP THE GREEN MOUNTAINS.

Passing on through the deep, narrow gorge, you at last come
to Roxbury station, at the summit of the Green Mountains.
Here in the same swamp, and only a few feet apart, are the

142

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

head waters of White and Dog Rivers — the former flowing east
into the Connecticut, and the latter west into Lake Champlain.
Near the summit is a quarry of American verd antique marble.
West of the station a bridge 400 feet long is crossed.

NOETHFIELD.

Sixty-four miles from White River Junction, and ten miles
from Montpelier is Northfield. Here were located the shops
of the Vermont Central Railroad, which are seen south of the
depot. They are quite extensive, but since the removal of the
principal business formerly done in them, to St. Albans, they
are occupied only for making repairs. Gov. Charles Paine
who was the projector of this railroad, and whose father made
the first clearing in the town, is buried in the cemetery at this
place. There are some eight or ten slate quarries in this town,
some of which will be noticed upon the hillside north of the
railroad. ' ' '■^ > ?

MONTPELIER JUNCTION.

From this place a branch railroad extends easterly a mile
and a half to the village of Montpelier, the capital of the State.

MONTPELIER.

Distance from New York, 324 miles; Montreal, 122; Quebec, 302; White Moan-
tains, 12.^ ; Lake Memphremagog, 169.

Leaving the Junction by the train on the branch road, in a
few minutes you are landed at Montpelier, the capital of Ver-
mont. The village, which contains some three or four thousand
inhabitants, is situated in the valley of the Winooski, on the
north bank of the river. Fine views are had of the village
from the hills which overlook it.

The capitol, which is the pride of the town, stands in rear of
the square, at the west end of the village, fronting on State
Street. The building is of granite, of the Grecian Doric
order, and in point of beauty has no superior in the New Eng-

MIDDLESEX.

148

I Moun-

village

rear of
State
Doric

w Eng-

land States. In the portico stands a life size statue of Ver-
mont's greatest hero, Ethan Allen, carved in Vermont marble
by a Vermont Sculptor, Larkin G. Mead, Jr., of Brattleboro.
The old hero stands with uplifted hand, and as you look upon
his massive brow and stern features, fancy runs back to the
command of surrender in the name of the Great Jehovah
and Continental Congress. In the State House can be seen
the regimental flags, which were triumphantly borne over the
battlefields of the Rebellion by stalwart hands, fresh from their
Green Mountain homes. The visitor after looking upon these
sacred relics should not fail ot visiting the geological and his-
torical rooms, where are deposited many rare and curious
specimens.

There are two banks of issue, two fire and one life insurance
company in the town. Of manufacturing establishments there
are several doing an extensive business. James R. Langdon,
the wealthiest man in the place is largely engaged in manufac-
turing flour. He is said to be worth three quarters of a
million dollars.

There are six churches, Congregational, Baptist, Indepen-
dent, Episcopal and Catholic. Within a few years several new
edifices have been erected, and no town in the State has more
neat and commodious places of worship.

,•"..>,.,■:■ '>sT.,^ ■' MIDDLESEX. •• '- -

Leaving Montpelier Junction, the tourist enters the valley
of the Winooski, and the views along the banks of the river
are grand and beautiful. Before the train reaches the station,
the rapids, over which the water flows with great rapidity, will
attract attention. Middlesex Narrows, a channel through the
solid rock, made by the Winooski river, is an object of interest.
For about 80 rods the river has worn a channel in the rock GO
feet wide and 30 feet deep. Passing westerly, Camel's Hump,
the second highest peak in the State, is seen towering far above
the neighboring summits.

;

144

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE,

WATEBBURY.

At this Station, 73 miles from White River Junction and 31
miles from Burlington, the tourist leaves the railroad to visit
Mount Mansfield, going ten miles north by stage to Stowe, where
there is the largest and most complete summer hotel in the
State. This village is situated in quite an extensive valley,
'surrounded by beautiful hills and lofty mountain peaks, and for
•a quiet summer resort it has few equals. The Waterbury
Hotel, kept by Mr. N. P. Keeler, capable of accommodating
100 guests, was recently built, and has no superior for the
accommodation of tourists. It is situated in a pleasant locality,
a short distance from the railroad, and the rooms are large and
airy. The drives to Bolton Falls, three miles west, where there
is a natural bridge over the river, and eight miles to Camel's
Hump, as well as the many others, are pleasant and charming.
Gov. Paul Dilhngham is a resident of this town. i*.,.-.* v -h

THE ROUTE TO STOWE AND MOUNT MANSFIELD.

The tourist should not fail to visit Mount Mansfield, from
which is had the most extensive view in New England, except
from the White Mountains. To do so you will leave the rail-
road at Waterbury and take the stage to Stowe, ten miles
northward. The ride is charmuig indeed, with Mr. Durkee on
the box. Take a seat with him, and he will point out to you
the many places of interest along the route. Before reaching
Stowe, Old Mansfield looms up in the distance, the Nose and
Chin rising above the neighboring peaks. 4 .t>on

Stowe is a quiet, pretty country village, lying in the valley
between Mansfield and Worcester mountains, and no loveHer
spot can bo found for a summer residence, if one wishes to be
in close proximity to extensive mountain scenery. The summit
of Mansfield is eight miles from Stowe, but this is the head-
quarters of mountain visitors, as here is the spacious Mansfield
House, and here horses, and carmges axe provided for those
going to the lountain. .a^imciOi; jjunoc*.;.

ii hm

Til

those

Hill,

seen t

north

'*^outh,

grand(

'^ip^TBWPI* U^W'V*'*

THE MANSFIELD HOUSE.

145

e valley
lovelier
|os to be
' ssummit
le lieml-
lansfield
lor those

THE MANSFIELD HOUSE — THE WALKS AND DRIVES.

9 This spacious and elegant hotel, in the village of Stowe, was
built by a stock company, and opened to visitors in 1865. It is
200 feet long, three stories high, and has a wing in rear 45 by
90 feet. It will accommodate 300 guests. In the rear wing,
on the first floor, is the dining room, and on the second there is
a dancing hall, each 45 by 60 feet. Mr. W. H. H. Bingham is
President of the Hotel Company, and Mr. Leonard Love is
principal manager. There are billiard tables and a bowling
alley connected with the house. A livery stable, with nearly
!i hundred horses, is also owned by the company.

The walks and drives in the vicinity are unsurpassed by
those of any other summer resort in New England. Sunset
Hill, east of the hotel, is a favorite with all. From here is
seen the village at your fvet, and the valley for many miles
north and south. East is the Worcester mountain range.
South, Camei'8 Ilumpy and West Old Mansfield in all its
grandeur.

MkM

146

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

^ I *

The principal ^drives are, to Mt. Mansfield, eight miles;
Smugglers' Notch, eight miles— one of the most wild and
romautic places in the country ; Bingham's Falls, five miles ;
Moss Glen Falls, three and a half miles ; Gold Brook, three
miles ; West Hill, two miles ; Morrisville Falls, eight miles j
Johnson Falls, 12 miles ; Nebraska, six miles. *

During the summer the stages from Stowe to Waterbury con-
nect with all the principal trains.

MOUNT MANSFIELD.

Before reaching the village of Stowe, or from the observatory
of the Mansfield House, the tourist can get a good view of
Mount Mansfield. The outline of the summit resembles the
human features. Old Mansfield, as is imagined, is in a reclin-
ing posture, his face turned upward. The north peak represents
the chin, the middle the nose, and the southern the forehead.
This mountain is the highest in Vermont, and from it can be
seen elevations i^ 3very county in the State. The Chin is 4,348
feet above the sea, 3,800 feet above the village of Stowe, and*
340 above the Nose. The Nose is 160 feet above the Forehead.

Having surveyed the outline of this grand old mountain, the
tourist will take a seat in the Mountain Coach, or upon the back
of a trusty pony, and set out for the summit. For several
miles the road extends along the valley by the side of a small
river. Coming to the base of the mountam you turn to the left
and commence the ascent. The road soon winds along through
the forest, and you are finally brought to tho door of the Half-
Way House. Here is a clearing of a few acres, and to the left
of the house, which is somewhat primitive in appearance, is a
magnificent spring, gushing in great volume from the mountain
side. You will want to stop here a few minutes and (Irink of
its pure and refreshing waters, and gaze upon the extensive and
lovely landscape in the valley below. As the coaches do not
go beyond this point, you who have come hither in them will

MOUNT MANSFIELD.

147

mount one of the sure footed ponies in waiting at the door, and
continue the trip to the summit. Entering the forest again,
your faithful animal walks slowly up the mountain, seemingly
conscious of the task before him. From the Half- Way House
to the summit the distance is two miles ; but if this is your
first trip you will be ready to affirm that it is at least six. As
you approach the summit, the trees are of the more hardy kinds,
stinted in growth and quite unlike those in the valley. Reach-
ing the eastern face of the Nose, you halt here for a few min-
utes to take a view of the valley in the east. Turning west-
ward to your right, you look down into Smugglers' Notch, which
seems near enough to reach at a single bound over the tree tops.
It is a deep gorge, winding between the mountains, and received
its name from the fact that in former years a contraband trade
was carried on by early settlers with Canada, the participators
in it going and coming by this unfrequented route. The scene
is wild and beautiful in the extreme, and you are inclined to
linger here in contemplating its sublimity. As you leave the
spot you proceed towards the Summit House, which is only a
siiort distance off. On your left rises the Nose some two or
three hundred feet, like a massive wall. Looking upward and
towards the summit, farther west, you catch the first view of
the "Old Man of the Mountain." His features are quite well
formed, and are decidedly Websterian in appearance. Pro-
ceeding forward you at last reach the Summit House, a large
and commodious hotel, capable of holding a hundred guests.
Resting a few minutes, and then leaving your ponies at the
stable, you walk to the western face of the Nose, a few rods dis-
tant, which you ascend. Reaching the summit, you involunta-
rily exclaim, — Eureka ! what a view I Neither the pencil of
the artist, nor words of the poet, have adequately described it.
Its grandeur and eublim^^y surpass description. Here you
are, nearly 4,000 feet above the valley, which lies at youf feet.
The Wiuooski is hardly seen, except here and there, resembling

Irl'

148

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY OViDE.

the smallest possible rivulet. On either hand, as far as you can
see, the eye rests upon hundreds of mountain peaks, stretching
away into the thick, dark haze which surrounds them.

West hes the great valley of the Champlain, and still beyond,
16 miles distant, is the lake itself, the whole length of which
comes under the eye. A few miles from its western shore rises
the lofty peaks of the famous Adirondacks.

North is the wide spread valley of the St. Lawrence, and in
favorable weather, with the aid of the glass, steamers can be
seen upon its waters. Montreal Mountain, with the city at its
base. Jay Peak, and Owl's Head, the latter rising from the
west bank of Lake Memphremagog, form prominent features in
the landscape. ^ ,, >t. t^^.^ ..^. ^ >. , i .

In the east the Franconia range and the White Mountains,
sixty miles distant, limit the vision, while the intervening space
is covered with numberless hills and mountains.-! h nn,

South can be seen Camel's Hump, Killington Peak and

Ascutney. ' frr*-' >^ -.'vimn ji?'.'*n/f»r<"35;o"

Indeed, as one contemplates this sublime landscape he is in-
spircd with reverence for the. Great First Cause, who has
shaped all so beautifully and so majestically.

On leaving the Nose, you will want to visit the Chin if the
day is not too far advanced. You will think it is only a short
distance to it, and will be surprised to learn that it is two miles.
About one-third of the way from the Nose to the Chin you
will notice the " drift scratches " upon the rock, and the identical
bowlder which made them. These reveal to man the fact that
even this lofty summit was once beneath the oceaii, and that
icebergs sailed over it.

Having visited all the interesting localities, and feasted upon
the wonders found in this great book of nature, you will retrace
your steps to the Mansfield House at Stowe, with a more per-
fect idea of the immensity and grandeur of Green Mountain
scenery.

ri'ii

-wn

<tSbJ': BOLTON FALLS* '*♦''- '''^•* *'-'''

BOLTON FALLS.

Leaving Waterbury, going west, you cross a bridge over
Wiuooski River, 425 feet in length. Tlie scenery along the
river increases in.interest as you approach the mountain range.
A few miles below Waterbury you come to Bolton Falls, seen
north of the railroad. The high bluffs on either side of the
river were evidently once united, forming a natural bridge.
Through it the river has finally worn a deep and narrow chan-
nel. Perpendicular and overhanging rocks form the gorge,
while huge bowlders, piled together, nearly bridge the river at
low water. Just after passing the falls the tourist can get a good
view of them from the car window, where he will notice the
foaming stream and the projecting rocks above. The highest
peaks of the Green Mountains are nearly in line with these
falls, and but a few mUes distant.;^ ^;' ^.v.ruf ,..c«/k ^^a "«^ x^9k

0^^ S%d:fn^ \t KIDLET*S STATION. ju* iv i'^ii . . SHO^

At this place, where the tourist is less than 350 feet above
the ocean, he is passing through a gap 4,000 feet below the sum-
mit of Mount Mansfield. Visitors to Camel's Hump leave the
cars at this station. - . «i - . : . ,

camel's hump. • '^

Leaving the railroad at Ridley's and going south, you can
reach the summit of Camel's Hump, six miles distant, by pri-
vate teams. A good carriage road has been constructed three
miles up the mountain, and the remainder of the way is accom-
plished on horseback. Not far from the summit is a spring of
excellent water, and also a house for the accommodation of .
visiiors. The view from the summit is similar to that from
Mount Mansfield. The hight above the sea is 4,083 feet, and
some over 3,800 above Winooski River. The peculiar outline
of its summit, which suggests its name, and its comparatively
isolated position, make it a conspicuous object for many miles

/ !

around.

"ik

*'U7f*l* l^*** ■ f*'*'^' '* 'V*^ *^»« ^J»«.»f ^--^^Vw

.•iilft.

'•t • M

HMliBt \*

■ ™"ll

150

THE CONNBCTiCUT VALLEY QUIDS.

JONESVILLE.

Three miles west of Bolton is Jonesville. East of the sta-
tion the valley is narrow, and in full view from the cars is a
beautiful cascade with a lofty rock near it. This, with the wild
scenery, gives the place an unusually picturesque appearance.

RICHMOND.

Before reaching Richmond the valley becomes broader and
more fertile. The village lies principally north of the station.
Passing westward you cross Clark Bridge over the Winooski,
600 feet long.

WILLISTON.

f.^ Passing through Williston, which is an excellent agricultural
region, you get good views of Mansfield and Camel's Hump.
Here is seen the profile of old Mansfield, outlined on the sky
beyond. West of the station you cross Bradley Bridge, 400
feet long. , .. ^

ESSEX JUNCTION.

Here passengers for Burlington change cars, taking the train
which runs to that place, eight miles distant.

PROM ESSEX JUNCTION TO BURLINGTON.

Soon after leaving Essex Junction, the view of Mansfield and
Camel's Hump is exceedingly beautiful, and one is greatly
impressed with their magnitude and grandeur. Passing from
the sandy table lands you enter the more fertile valley of the
Winooski River. The scenery along this stream is highly inter-
esting. The river has made deep gorges through the limestone
rock, and as one passes over the two railroad bridges he will
behold the perpendicular and overhanging walls of rock, which
rise on either side to the hight of nearly one hundred feet.
North of the railroad, in the river, a rocky island, with high,
perpendicular walls, will be noticed, crowned with fir trees.

wmwf

THE TUNNEL.

f'C

151

Continuing towards Burlington, you soon come to Winooski
Falls, where is situated the manufacturing village of Winooski.
South of this place, upon the bluff beyond, can be seen the
granite column, 42 feet high, erected by the State of Vermont,
at the grave of Ethan Allen, in the Burlington cemetery.

THE TUNNEL.

Leaving Winooski, you soon come to the tunnel, which
extends through a high sand bluff, a distance of 350 feet.
Passing through it you come out upon the shore of Lake Cham-
plain, within the limits of the city of Burlington.

The mode of constructing this tunnel was unlike that of any
other in this country. Sharpened stakes were driven into the
sand in the form of an arch, when an excavation was made
below them. In this space was built an arch of masonry, and
when completed the stakes were driven further into the bank
and another section of masonry constructed. This process was
repeated until the whole work was finished. 1^ the lower por-
tions of the tunnel there were occasionally alternations of clay
and sand, and beneath a thin stratum of clay, at the depth of
80 feet from the surface a live toad was found, occupying a
small cavity in the sand. When first taken out he was in a
torpid state, but upon exposure to the air soon showed signs of
life, and became as active as others of his species that are found
in localities supposed to be more favorable to longevity. He
lived six months, and his skin is now in the possession of a
Burlington gentleman.

BURLINGTON.

Distance from New York, Sdi miles; Montreal, 97; Qaebeo. 277; White Moun-
tains, 165; Lake Memphremagog, 209.

Situated upon an eminence, sloping westward do t lo Lake
Champlain, which it overlooks, Burlington is trnl) . of the
most beautiful places in Vermont. The tourist will ^cend Col-
lege Street to the University, and from the v, irvatory of the

\
'*

152

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

main building look out upon the grand panorama of nature
spread before him. From here, beyond the lake is seen the
wild mountain region of Northern New York — numberless
peaks rising far above the lake and forming a landscape of
remarkable beauty. Close to the beholder lies the city of Bur-
lington, covering the hillside with its dwellings, stores and work-
shops. Beyond is Champlain . itself, with its islands and bays.
At this point the lake is ten miles wide, but one unaccustomed
to measure distance upon water with the e)»e, would hardly
think it was more than five or six. Junipef Island, with its
light-house, and comprising some eleven acres of land, is a con-
spicuous object in the foreground, while at the left the dark
mass seen peering above the water is Rock Dunder. Further
towards the middle of the lake are the Four Brothers — little
gems of islands arrayed in green. North and south the %rk
waters of Champlain extend beyond your vision.

Rock Dunder is a black mass of naked slate rock, nearly
three miles from* shore, a little south of the city. It rises twenty
feet above the water, and one might easily suppose it to be a
fort. It is stated that when the British fleet apprpached Bur-
lington in the war of 1812, the commander, imagining it to be
some infernal Yankee invention to blow his ships to atoms,
opened fire upon it, and after an ineffectual attempt to sink it
in the lake, he concluded that it was a useless undertaking, and
gave it up.

Opposite Burlington, in New York, is the village of Port
Kent, and near it, on the road to Keeseville, is some remarka-
ble scenery on the Ausable River — places where that stream
has worn a deep and narrow channel through the solid rock.
Still further west are the Adirondack mountains, whose peaks
tower majestically heavenward ; and conspicuous among them
are Mt Mclntyre, White Face, and Mt Marcy — the latter
5,467 feet above the sea, and the highest point between the
White Mountains and the AUeghanies.

»v ^, ••

BURLINGTON.

153

Plattsburg, on the west side of the lake, north of Port Kent,
can be seen in favorable weather. During the summer steam-
ers run between that place and Burlington.

Turning eastward you will behold a view of unusual interest,
although not equal to that just surveyed. In the distance are
the lofty summits of Mansfield and Camel's Hump, while the
space between you and them resembles a vast plain dotted with
patches .of forest and cultivated fields.

The Vermont University, from the observatory of which the
tourist has looked upon the surrounding scenery, is the oldest
educational institution in the State, it having been chartered in
1791. It received from the State a grant of land containing
29,000 acres. In the war of 1812 the United States Govern-
ment occupied the University aa a depository of arms. In 1824
the buildings were destroyed by fire, and in 1825 the erection
of new ones was begun. The north-west comer stone, which
bears an inscription, was laid by Gen. Lafayette. There is a
medical department connected with the University, and in 1865
the Vermont State Agricultural College, endowed by grants of
land from the general government, was also united with it.
Both institutions now have a joint fund of $300,000, mostly in
real estate. Before leaving the University the tourist will find
it worth while to examine the specimens of natural history
belonging to the institution. He will also notice with interest,
near the entrance to the grounds, the huge bowlder, about three
feet in diameter, worn perfectly smooth and as round as a can-
non ball while in a pot-hole at Northfield, where it was found
several years ago.

The Vermont Episcopal Institute, under the patronage of the
Episcopal Church, is located north of the city, fronting upon
Lake Champlain. It is an elegant structure, and can be seen
from the University buildings

There are some elegant private residences in the city, a num-
ber of which are occupied by gentlemen who have retired or
are stiU doing business in Ne^ YorL

lii*-

JUi

yyjjlj:,;,.

^^^H

y §■

lii

154

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

East of the Univarsity is Burlington Cemetery, where are
the graves of £than Allen and others distinguished in the his-
tory of Vermont. The Tuscan column of granite, 42 feet high,
four and one-half feet in diameter at se, standing upon a

pedestal six feet square, which was ereci the State in 1857

to the memory of the hero of Ticonderoga, object of inter-

est, and is in keeping with the character of li hose memory
it is intended to perpetuate. On the sides ol pedestal are

inserted four marble tablets, suitably inscribed.

Burlington has a population of 8,000, and is still increasing.
The mercantile business of the place has for many years been
large, a number of firms being engaged in the wholesale trade.
Its lumber interest, however, is the most extensive, the annual
sales amounting to sixty million feet. Burlington is the fourth
lumber mart in this country — only Chicago, Albany and Bangor
doing a larger business. The lumber companies are, L. Barnes
& Co., the Hunterstown Lumber Company, and C. Blodgett &
Son. The Hunterstown Company own large tracts of timber
land, and saw mills on the Ottawa River, in Canada.

Among the business enterprises, are the Burlington Manu-
facturing Company, who have rolling mills and a nail factory,
and are about to engage in manufacturing railroad iron of Bes-
semer steel ; flouring mills, a sash and blind factory, a pottery,
woolen mills, the Mechanic Pioneer Shops, a chair factory, and
coffee and spice mills.

In the war of 1812 some 4,000 American troops were stationed
here, under Gens. Macomb and Wade Hampton. Fortifications
were thrown up in the north part of the city, the outlines of
which are still visible.

GOING NORTH.

Leaving Burlington the tourist will return to Essex Junction
and proceed northward. The surface of the country is gener-
ally level, and void of interest.

COLCHESTEB.

a55

COLCHESTER.

Just before reaching the station you come in sight of Lake
Champlain, but taking a more northerly course you leave it oa
the left

I MILTON.

The village, which lies west of the station, contains several
mills, situated on Lamoille River. South-east of the village
and not far from the railroad, are the Great Falls in the La-
moille, which, in running fifly rods, makes a descent of 150 feet.
Near the middle of the cataract is a small island, upon each side
of which the water* rushes down with great force, tossing the
epray into the air, and making an incessant roar.

GEORGIA. »

Before reaching Georgia you cross a high bridge, 450 feet in
length, over Lamoille River. You are now ten miles from St.
Albans, and are descending towards the lake, which comes in
view several miles^north of the station. Here the country is
level and has the appearance of a good agricultural region.

ST. ALBANS.

Distance firom New York, 881 miles; Montreal, 65; Quebec, 245; White Moan-
tains, 181; Lake Memphromagog, 225.

Approaching St. Albans from the south the village is seen
spread out before you upon a broad plain and a gently sloping
bill which faces the west. East of the viHage, and about a mile
from the depot, there is quite an elevation, upon which are some
extensive and neat dwellings. A little to the north-east of the
village is Aldis Hill, and to the south-west, Bellevue. From
either the scenery is grand and beautifuL Almost at the feet
of the tourist is the village. To the west and beyond are broad,
green fields, reaching down to Lake Champlain, two and a half
miles distant North and south, as far as can be seen, is Cham-
plain with its innumerable islands, and beyond are the lofty

156

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY OUIDB.

Bummita of the Adirondack range. Almost directly north is
Montreal, seen with the aid of a glass, and east are the Green
Mountains, clothed with their summer verdure. It ie stated
that some years ago four Americans met in Italy, three of whom
agreed that from no point, with the same altitude, was there so
fine a view to be had as from Aldis Hill. The fourth had not
ascendid its summit, but on returning to this country he went
to St. Albans for that purpose, and was so charmed with the
scenery that he settled and finally died in the town. There is
something so magnificent and enchanting in the scenery from
the hights about St. Albans — so broad and so beautiful — that one
feels, as he gazes off upon the distant lake and the dark moun-
tain range beyond, himself lifted far above the low and sordid
in life — an inward yearning towards the good and the true.

South of the village is an elevation known by the very unpo-
etical name of Johnny Cake Hill. It received this appellation
from a stranger, who, many years ago, chanced to pass that way
just at night, in the early settlement of the pla^e. Applying at
a farm house for supper, Johnny Cake was tflfered as the prin-
cipal dish. Not choosing to partake of it, he declined and went
to another house in search of supper. Here he m^t with no
better success. Traveling on, from house to house, wherever
he applied the inevitable Johnny Cake was sure to turn up.
Prom this circumstance he gave to the locality the name of
Johnny Cake Hill, by which it has since been known.

Jesse Welden was tiie first white man to reside within the
limits of the town. He went from Bennington to St. Albans
before the Revolution, and on the breaking out of the war he
retired to a locality in closer proximity to civilization. In 1784
he returned and erected a log house near the southern end of
Main Street. Here he remained for quite a number of years,
but as others began to come in and make settlements, he plunged
again into the wilderness, to become the pioneer of other local-
ities. At one time he owned all the land upon which the vil-

.'t«n".>

ST. ALBANS.

157

lage of St. Albans' is situated. The first framed house in the
town was built by Eldiid Butler.

The principal business of the town was formerly done at St
Albans Bay, at the lake, two and a half miles distant. Since
the opening of the railroad the Bay has become a mere hamlet,
while the village at the center of the township has grown to
stately proportions.

Main Street, running north and south, and upon which the
stores are mostly located, is one of the finest streets in New
England. It is unusually broad and very straight for a mile.
On either side are rows of shade trees, mostly maple. North
of the stores, at various points on Main Street, are some elegant
and spacious dwellings — as fine as any seen in much larger
places. East of the business part of the village, and fronting
on Main Street, is a large and handsome pari;, containing four
acres. It is covered with shade trees, and in a few years will
be a very beautiful and inviting spot. Above the park, and
facing it on the east side, are the Congregational, Episcopal and
Methodist Churches, the Court House and the High School
building. At the north end is the Welden House.

Franklin County, of which St. Albans is the shire town, is
one of the most productive in the State. It is especially adap-
ted to butter and cheese making. A butter market is held at
St. Albans every Tuesday, and thousand of dollars are paid to
the farmers by the agents of Boston merchants — frequently as
high as $30,000 in a single day, and in one day in 1865 $G0,-
OOO were paid out. No other town in Vermont has a otated
market day. Ice cars, loaded with butter, are sent every Tues-
day night in the summer from St. Albans to Boston. In 1865
3,035,257 pounds of butter were shipped from St. Albans, which,
at an average of 40 cents per pound, the market price that year,
was worth $1, 214,102.80. In the same year were shipped
1,174,261 pounds of cheese, valued at 15^ cents per pound,
making a total of $182,010.48. In the last fifteen years thero .

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158

THE CONNECTICUT VALLET GUIDE.

were shipped 33,603,044 pounds of butter, valued a* 33 cents
per pound, and wlych sold for $10,091,093.20. For the same
period there were shipped 16,628,097 pounds of cheese, which,
valued at 9 cents per pound, would biing $1,496,527.73.

St. Albans is the headquarters of the Vermont Central Rail-
road. Here live its principal officers, and here are located its
various shops for the manufacture and repair of locomotives,
passenger and freight cars. Nearly all the locomotives and
cars used on the road are made by the company, and they are
fully equal to the best running upon the New England roads.
Tlie shops, which arc all new and are provided with the best
machinery, are the most extensive of any in the eastern States.
The machine and car shops are each 600 fe^t long and from 60
to 75 feet wide. The engine houses, one oi' which has recently
been erected, are also very extensive. A new passenger house
three hundred feet long, and sufficiently wide for four tracks,
was built in 1866. The upper stories are used for offices by

the company.

i\.tt> -t, rci? r . .t, .. ) •• . -

THE WELDEN HOUSE AT ST. ALBANS.

St Albans was for a long time deficient in hotel accommoda-
tions. In 1865 the Welden House, built by a corporation at a
cost of $118,000, and named in honor of the first settler of the
town, was opened to the public, and it is acknowledged to be
one of the finest hotels in the country. Pleasantly situated at
the north end of the park, and overlooking the village and the
lake, it is one of the most desirable stopping p ■'s to be found.
The proprietors are Cool & McDonald, and under their man-
agement the WeMen will ever be a favorite with summer
tourists.

A sulphur spring has been discovered in the town, which has
been secured for the guests of the Welden House. Water
from the Alburgh and Highgate sulphui springs, and from the
mineral spring in Shddon, will also be kept at the hotel. Tho
Sheldon spring has been purchased by a New York gentleman,

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THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

and some remarkable cures have been made by using its waters.

St. Albans is the residence of Ex-Governor Smith, one of the
ablest men in the State. His residence and grounds, on the
eminence east of the village, which it overlooks, are very fine.
There are between 4,000 and 5,000 inhabitants in the town, and
no place of its size has better churches or high school build-
ing. They have all been built within a few years — the Con-
gregational Church at a cost of $27,000, the Catholic at
$25,000, the Episcopal at $15,000, and the High School
building at $18,000.

Ten passenger trains arrive and depart from St. Albans daily,
thus affording excellent opportunities to visit the place. The
distances from it to the large cities and prominent places of
interest are : To New York, 332 miles ; Boston, 260 ; Sarato-
ga, 149; Burlington, 32 ; Ogdensburg, 142 ; Montreal, 65.

(■■ ■

THE ST. ALBANS RAID. • '?

Not even a thunder storm from a cloudless sky could have
astonished the people of St. Albans more than did the famous
rebel raid on Wednesday afternoon, Oct. 19th, 1864, under the
leadership of the so-called Confederate, Lieut. Bennett H.
Young. Nothing unusual had happened to excite suspicion,
and the people of the town were quietly pursuing their accus-
tomed vocations, when soon after three o'clock the sqund of ruf-
fian robbers, calling themselves Confederate soldiers, left their
hiding places and went forth with the deliberate purpose of
committing great crimes — robbery at all events, and murder if
necessary. All at once the town was in great commotion. A
band of armed men appeared in the streets, maddened to des-
peration with liquor. The banks were entered and robbed, shots
were fired at unoffending citizens, horses seized e id ridden off,
and all without meeting hardly a shadow of opposition, so com-
plete the surprise and so illy prepared were the people to resist.
There were twenty-one raiders in the town, five of whom
entered the St. Albuna Bank, four the Franklin County, and

THE ST. ALBANS RAID.

\'> J'

'..'(

three the First National Bank. The others remained in the
street to prevent a capture. About $200,000 in all were taken ;
$75,000 from the St. Albans Bank, $50,000 from the First
National, and the balance from the Franklin County Bank.
Less than half of this amount, about $90,000, is all that was
afterward recovered.

When the raiders entered the St. Albans Bank, the teller,
Mr. C. N. Bishop, stepped to the coimter to wait upon them,
supposing that they had some ordinary business to transact.
Instantly they presented their revolvers at him, and taking them
to be robbers he sprang into the rear room, where the acting
cashier, Mr. M. A. Seymour, was engaged. The robbers fol-
lowed and seized both by their collars, at the same time threat-
ening to shoot them if resistance was made. They then
announced that they were Confederate soldiers, come to retali-
ate for the doings of Sheriden in the Shenandoah Valley. Mr.
Seymour requested the privilege of taking an inventory of the
property about to be carried away, so that a claim might be
made upon the government. "D — n your government," was
tlie reply. "Hold up your hands and take the Confederate
oath." To save their lives Mr. Seymour and Mr. Bisihop com-
plied, and they are the only ones who had the Confederate oath
administered to them in New England. u ] ji>;..i«,{v *>i-j^h ^

At the Franklin County Bank the raiders found the cashier,
Mr. Marcus W. Beardsley, and a wood sawyer. Both were
seized and locked up in the vault, where they remained until
released by the citizens of the town after the raiders had left.
They came out nearly exhausted and pale as ghosts.

Several of the raiders were stationed near the comer of
Lake and Main Streets, and as fast as any came up either
street they were ordered upon the park at the peril of their
lives. Here some 25 or 30 citizens, unarmed, were herded
together, and kept there until the raiders departed.

Further up Main Street the Confederates were busy in sccur-

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162

THB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUir)E.

ing horses. Those in the streets and livery stables were seized.
Mr. Fuller, seeing his led out by his hostler, at the command
of one of the raiders, demanded him to return them to the
stable. Young, the leader, drew his pistol and fired. Mr. Ful-
ler stepping behind a tree, the ball passed him and hit Iklr. E.
J. Morrison, the contractor of the Welden House, who was
standing on the steps of the store north of the Messenger
newspaper office. He was taken home, pnd died on the 21st,
two days after. Other shots were fired and two persons were
wounded, but both recovered.

In a short time the raiders had seized their plunder and were
galloping up Main Street, on their way to Canada. As soon as
possible they were pursued by some forty citizens of St, Albans,
and followed so closely that they gave up the plan of robbing
the Sheldon Bank. Still pursued they were driven into Can-
ada. The local authorities there assisted in arresting all that
could be found, fourteen of them, and took them to St. Johns.
From here they were transferred to Montreal under die plea
of a want of suitable accommodations for conducting the trial.
They were taken before Judge Coursol, and about $90,000 of
the stolen money found in their possession was placed in the
hands of Lamothe, the Chief of Police. The Judge, after
some delay, decided that he had no jurisdiction in the case, as
the writ had not been issued by the Governor General, and
ordered the raiders to be discharged and the money found in
their possession restored to them. Another writ was obtained,
and finally four of the party were arrested at Point Levi, near
Quebec. They were brought before Judge Smith, and he deci-
ded that the case did not come under the Ashburton treaty, and
80 here ended Canadian justice.

A claim was made upon the Canadian Government for the
return of the $90,000 given up to the raiders by Judge Cour-
sol, and Parliament passed an act for that purpose ; $>o0,000
in gold, equal then to $90,000 in currency, was given, pro rata,
to the Banks.

yny.

.t:\ V

rouse's point.

163

•,"♦■

rouse's point.

Rouse's Point, named in honor of an early settlor on the
adjoining lands, is twenty-four miles from St. Albans. Here a
bridge one mile long has been constructed across Lake Cham-
plain by the Vermont Central and the Ogdensburg Railroads.
It has a draw or boat-bridge, 300 feet in length, which is
opened by a steam engine for the purpose of permitting vessels
to go up and down the lake. The scenery here is quite inter-
esting. Fort Montgomery, a work for national defenpe, some
200 rods above the bridge, will be seen jutting into the lake
from the New York shore. The site of the old fort was some
20 or 30 rods south of the present one. After work on the
new fort had progressed for some time, it was ascertained that
it had been located north of the 45th parallel, and the British
authorities notified our Government that it was within the
limits of their territory. When the line was subsequently run
under the Ashburton and Webster treaty, concessions were
made in the State of Maine by our Government, as a proper
compensation.

HIGHGATE AND ALBURGH SULPHUR SPRINGS.

These springs have long been resorted to for the cure of
cutaneous and scrofulous diseases, and in many cases have
proved efficacious. The Highgate Spring is in the western
part of Highgate, twelve miles from St. Albans. The railroad
from St. Albans to Montreal, passes between the hotel and the
spring house. The Franklin House, large and commodious,
is a delightful summer retreat. In rear of the hotel on a
gentle eminence is a grove of native trees, wliich add greatly
to the beauty of the place.

The Alburgh Spring;? are seventeen miles from St. Albans,
on the railroad to Rouse's Point. These springs have been a
place of resort since 1816, and the number of visitors is grad-

p I'

4 ' *

164

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

ually increasing. Here are two hotels for the accommodation
of visitors — the Missisquoi and the Mansion House. Each will
accommodate a hundred guests. Pleasure seekers come here
to enjoy fishing, hunting and rowing on the bay. Here the
railroad crosses the bay on a bridge 4,200 feet long. ^ „^

' . f . FROM ST. ALBANS TO MONTKEAL.

The scenery from St. Albans to Montreal, a distance of 65
miles is without special interest. The country is generally
level and the villages are small. The stations are : Junction,
East Swanton, Highgate Springs, Provmce Line, St. Armand,
Moore's, Stanbridge, Des Riveires, St. Alexandre, Stanstead,
ShefFord, and Chambly Junction, St. Johns, Lacadie, Bros-
seau's, St. Lambert, and Montreal. At the Stanstead, Shef-
ford and Chambly Junction you connect with that road, and the
Montreal and Champlain Railway, operated by the Grand
Trunk. At St. Johns you cross the outlet of Lake Cham-
plain, which flows into the St. Lawrence. St. Lambert is
opposite Montreal, at the entrance to Victoria Bridge. The
country for some distance, in Canada, before reaching Montreal
is mostly inhabited by the French.

MONTREAL.

f. wrj.Mt'.'^'.

The tourist before reaching the Victoria Bridge, when
approaching Montreal, will notice Lachine on the north side of
the St. Lawrence, and further east the city of Montreal,
with the Mountain in the rear. On reaching the Victoria
Bridge across the St. Lawrence, the train pass'es under the
Grand Trunk Railway and thence eastward until it reaches the
grade of that road, when it proceeds toward the bridge. Six
or eight minutes are occupied in crossing it, and you then pass
the offices and shops of the Grand Trunk, curve to the right,
cross the Welland Canal, and thence to the depot in Montreal,
having made a circuit of four miles since leaving the bridge.
Here your trunks are examined by the Custom House officers,
and you then proceed to your hotel.

Ik,

>»t

MONTREAL.

165

The Canadians are not a fast people, and if, in your pursuit
of pleasure, you should encounter, occasionally, a vexatious
delay, you will do well to remember the maxim of one who has
lived long among them, and haa the happy faculty of maintain-
ing his good nature under all circumstances: "Keep your
patience — remember you are in Canada ! " Forgetting for the
time the prompt,, direct, and off-hand way of doing business
in the States, practice this maxim and your happiness will be
complete. ''«■

In your perambulations about the city, should you jRnd it
desirable to ask some simple question of a plain, laboring man,
and he should answer in your mother tongue as distinctly as
words ever fell from the lips of man, that he " can't speak Eng-
lish," do not threaten to flog him for lying. This, beyond the
gibberish imbibed with his mother's milk, is all he has had
ambition to master.

Should gold be above par, you will do well to provide your-
self with specie, which you can obtain of any broker, before
leaving the hotel to visit the objects of interest in the city. It
will save you much trouble in making change with those not
acquainted with the state of the money market. The Cana-
dian's stand point in financial matters seems a little singular to
you at first, although you may not be able to controvert it. He
will tell you, perhaps, that greenbacks have gone down, while
you feel that he is mistaken. With you greenbacks are all
right, but the mischief is in gold — that has gone up f *

Montreal has a population of 110,000, and its age dates back
more than three hundred years, to 1542, when a European set-
tlement was begun here. Jacques Cartier, however, looked upon
the spot with delight in 1535, when an Indian village existed
under the name of Hochelaga. He gave it the name of Mont
Koyal, and a century after its first settlement it was christened
Villie-Marie. In 1760 the British took possession of it, ant'
it has since continued to inci-ease in importance, until it is now

TFT

166

THE CONNECTlCtJT VALLET OUIDE.

ifwa?!

■t*IWIHU'''i^

the metropolis of British North America. The city is situated
on Montreal Island, which is thirty miles long by ten in the
extreme breadth. This island is formed by a branch of the
Ottawa on the north and the St. Lawrence on the south.
North-west of the city is a mountain of considerable hight,
from which there is an extensive prospect. The view from it
is exceedingly picturesque. The roofs and domes of the build-
ings in the city are covered with tin, which, glittering in the
sun-light, present a peculiar contrast with the grey limestone
walls and towers.

The many elegant buildings of cut limestone give Montreal
that substantial and permanent appearance which no city in the
States possesses. The streets, however, are generally narrow,
and less attractive than they would have been had they been
made wider when laid out, and in this respect they do not bear
comparison with the streets of other important American cities.

The city has a frontage on the St. Lawrence of about three
miles, and no where are there such splendid wharves as are
found here. They are made of cut limestone, and show a
greater extent of masonry than can be found elsewhere upon

this continent.

, ■ . - ;.v .--••' ■ ,■,,,

THE VICTORIA BRIDGE. ;;

One of the principal objects of interest to strangers visiting
Montreal is the Victoria Bridge, which spans the St. Lawrence
and is used only by the Grand Trunk Railway, giving Mon-
treal an unbroken railway communication of 1,100 miles in
one road, from Portland to Detroit. The bridge which is built
of iron on the tubular principle, is 9,194 feet in length — nearly
two miles, and cost $6,300,000. There are two long abut-
ments and 24 piers of solid stone masonry. The water in pass-
ing under the bridge, runs at the rate of seven to ten miles an
hour, and it is calculated that each pier will stand a pressure of
seventy thousand tons of ice, which at the opening of the river
comes sweeping down the current with great force. The

wMfmfi'mn'^m '< •

OTHER OBJECTS OF INTEREST. .

167

blocks of stone in the piers are bound together with cement and
iron rivets, and the face towards the current is beveled off to a
sharp pointed edge so as to present as little resistance as is
possible. The bridge rises from the shores to the center, at
the rate of one foot in every 112, or nearly 48 feet to the mile.
The object of this is to give sutficient hight in the center so that
steamers and vessels can pass under the bridge without difficulty.
The distance from the water, in summer, to the bridge is 60
feet. The engineers of this noble structure were Robert Ste-
phenson and A. M. Ross. Trains cross it in about six minutes.
The tourist can visit the interior of the bridge by applying at
the office of the Grand Trunk Railway for a pass, near their
shops, a short distance west of the bridge.

The tourist will notice, in visiting or crossing Victoria Bridge,
north of the railroad, on the Montreal side of the river, at Point
St. Charles, near the abutment, a massive stone resting on a
huge rock, the whole about eighteen feet high, and enclosed with
a white railing. This was erected by the workmen of the
bridge to commemorate the spot where 6,500 Irish emigrants
were buried in 1847, who died of ship fever.

OTHER OBJECTS OP INTEREST.

The public buildings of Montreal, built of cut limestone,
have no equals in this country, and are worthy a visit. The
Cathedral of Notre Dame is said to be the largest building in
this country. It is 255 feet long, 135 wide, and its two towers
each 220 feet high. In the north-west tower is a bell which
weighs 29,400 pounds, and is named " Gros Bourdon," from its
deep bass tone. In the other tower is a chime of bells. The
view from these towers, one of which is always open to the pub-
lic, is magnificent ; the city and country man/ miles around can
be seen. Ten thousand people can be seated in this cathedral—
8,000 on the first floor and 2,000 in the galleries. Its cost was
£100,000.

The Ck>urt House, on Notre Dame Street, opposite Nelson's

168

THE CONNECTICUT VAM^EY GUIDE.

monument, is of cut limestone, in the Grecian Ionic style, and
id one of the most elegant buildings in the city.

The Bank of Montreal, at Place d'Armies, of the Corinthian
style of architecture, built of cut stone, is an elegant building.
(Among the other bank buildings worthy of note may be men-
tioned Molson's Bank, corner of Great St. James Street ; City
Bank, near Bank of Montreal ; Bank of British North Amer-
ica, and Ontario Bank.

The Post Office, on Great St. James Street, is of beautiful
cut stone, and one of the finest buildings in that locality.

The Bonsecours Market, on St. Paul and Water Streets, is
a magnificent edifice in the Grecian and Doric style. It cost
about $300,000, and has a front of three stories on Water
Street and two stories on St Paul. The city occupy the upper
part of the building for offices. In the east wing is Concert
Hall, capable of seating 4,000 persons.

Mount Royal Cemetery, two miles from the city, on the east
side of the mountain, and the water works which tap the
St. Lawrence at the Lachine Rapids, west of Montreal, are
objects of interest, 'and no one should fail to visit them.

The various churches and convents will claim the attention
of the tourist, and he will find them worth visiting.

" Shooting the Rapids," to those fond of daring adventure,
would round off a visit to Montreal, and pleasantly increa^ft
one's recollections of his summer's tour. Take the early
morning train from Montreal to Lachine, a few miles west of
the city and there wait the coming of the steamer. About
eight o'clock you go on board, and at Caughnawaga she will lie
to for a few minutes for the Indian pilot. The steamer
will then start to make the run down the Lachine Rapids. As
soon as they are reached steam is shut off, and you are carried
down by the force of the current alone. Presently you are
running at lightning speed through the breakers, over the
whirling, bubbling waters. The waves are lashed into spray,

THE UOTELS.

169

and the scene becomes one of wild and fearful grandeur. The
ihithful Indian is still at his iiO.><t, and the steamer is taken safely
through the danger. At times you pass within a short distance
of huge rocks, and to touch one would crush the steamer into
an utter wreck. After passing the rapids the steamer proceeds *
t) Montreal, going under Victoria Bridge before arriving at the
wharf.

Before leaving Montreal the tourist should visit Notman's
photographic rooms, on Bleury Street. Here you will find
some rare specimens of the photographic art. Mr. Notman
is one of the best photographers in the world, and was awarded
u gold medal at the International Exhibition in London in 1862,
over all other European and American competitors. His views
uf obj(;cts of interest in Montreal and Canadian scenery ^^e
exceedingly beautiful.

THE HOTELS.

IMontreal is well supplied with first-class hotels. Among
them may be mentioned St. Lawrence Hall, Donegana Hotel,
and the Ottawa House. The Donegana Hotel is situated on
Notre Dame Street, the Broadway of the city, and is elegantly
furnished. The rooms are large and airy, and from them are
good views of the city. The landlord, Daniel Gale, is an Amer-
ican, and will direct strangers to places of interest about the
city. The cars of the street railway pass the hotel every ten
minutes.

The St. Lawrence and Ottawa are on Great St. James Street.

;

OTTAWA, CANADA WEST. *

Ottawa, the seat of the Canadian government, 164 miles by

railroad from Montreal, is situated on Ottawa River, 90 miles

above the confluence with the St. Lawrence. It was formerly

called Bytown, from its founder, Cyl. John By, who assisted in

constructing Rideau Canal between Kingston, on Lake Ontario,

and the Ottawa River. This work was commenced in 1826,
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THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

and opened for navigation in 1832, at a cost to Great Britain of
£803,774 sterling. The city of Ottawa is well laid out, and
the scenery in the vicinity is not surpassed by any in America.
In addition to railroad facilities for travel a line of steamers run
up and down the lake during the summer months.

, * HOTELS. " > -.^

The Russell House, James A. Gouin, proprietor, is situated
in Center Town, near the Parliament Buildings, Post Office,
Custom House, etc. Within five minutes' walk from this hotel
is the Suspension Bridge, where views may be obtained of the
celebrated Chaudiere Falls, second only to those of Niagara in
imposing grandeur. This hotel is large and commodious, and
the tourist will find it a pleasant stopping place. i

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TO WHITE MOUNTAINS, LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG,
' ■ ^ ; . AND QUEBEC. ,

At White River Junction the tourist, going to the White
Mountains, Lake Memphremagog, or Quebec, continues up the
Connecticut River, crossing White River at its mouth. The
scenery along the river is rich and beautiful.

NORWICH AND HANOVER.

Five miles from the junction you come to Norwich and Han-
over, the former in Vermont and the latter in New Hampshire.
The villages are about three-fourths of a mile from the station.

The bridge at this place is the only free bridge across the
Connecticut

' . DARTMOUTH COLLEGE.

In the beautiful village of Hanover, N. H., a short distance
from the depot, on a plain considerably elevated above the
Connecticut, is Dartmouth College. This is one of the oldest
colleges in New England, only Harvard, Yale and Brown pre-
ceding it chronologically. Founded in 1769, it is nearing its
centennial. The only college in New Hampshire, it has trained
most of the eminent men in the State, and from its liigh repu-
tation has drawn students from all parts of the country. It has
been well said that it is on the intellectual landscape of the
State, what Mount Washington is on the physical. In every
section of the land, and in every walk of life, its sons have
attained distinction. Thirteen of them have been Governors of
six different States, thirty-one have been Judges of the Supreme
Court in vafious States, or of the Federal Courts ; four have

lie;

■1i i]

172

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

been members of the Cabinet at Washington ; and five have
occupied diplomatic stations abroad. The contributions of the
college to the cause of education have been especially large.
Twenty-two of its alumni have been Presidents of twenty-one
different colleges ; seventy-eight hav e been College Professors,
twelve of them in various Medical chairs ; and thirteen have
been Professors of twelve different Theological Seminaries. It
has educated more than 800 men for the pulpit. On the roll of
its alumni, among other honored names, we note those of Daniel
Webster, Rufus Choate, George P. Marsh, and Salmon P.
Chase. In addition to the Classical, it has a Scientific and a
Medical Department. It has, besides the President, Rev. Asa
D. Smith, D. D., L. L. D., twenty Professors, and, for the
l^resent year, 298 students. The war drew heavily upon the
classes — a large number of the students serving in every capac-
ty, from that of a private to that of a Major-General. The
Freshman Cla^s numbers 50, which, with the present large
attendance, shows the College to be in a flourishing condition.
Tiiere are four halls for the Classical department, a Scientific
building, a Medical college, and an observatory. The latter
commands a delightful view down the valley of the Connecti-
cut, the vista ending Avith Mt. Ascutiiey. A gymnasium, 47 by
90 feet, luis been erected at a cost of $24,000, the gill of Geo.
H. Bissell, Esq., of the city of New York, a graduate of the
college ; and measures are in progress for the erection of an
imposing Alumni Hall. The tourist would greatly enjoy a few
days in Hanover and vicinity. The rides, in every direction,
are pleasant, and during the summer season there is a great
influx of agreeable company from the cities.

Among the students there have always been some dependent,
mainly, for the means of prosecuting their studies on their own
i.'xertions. Such men have usually spent a portion of the win-
ter in school-teaching. In Whittier's last beautiful poem, —
"■ Snow-Bound," there is a picture of the Dartmouth School-
master, which will awaken pleasant memories in many minds :

"^■"- ^-

DAETMOUTH COLLEGE.

173

i ,*

*' Brisk wielder of the birch and imle,
The master of the district school,
Held at the fire, his favored place.
Its warm glow lit a laughing face,
Fresh-hued and fair, where scarce appeared
The uncertain prc^phecy of beard.
He played the old and simple games
Our modern boyhood scarcely names,
Sang songs, and told us what befalls
In classic Dartmouth's college halls.
Bom the wild nortliern hills among,
From whence his yeoman father wrung
By patient toil, subsistence scant,
Not competence, and yet not want,
lie early gained the power to pay
His cheerful, self-reliant way; ■;

Could doff at ease his scholar's gown
To peddle wares from town to town ;
Or, through the long vacations reach,
In lonely lowland districts teach,
"Where all the droll experience found
At stranger hearths in boarding round ;
The moonlit skater's keen delight,
The sleigh-drive through the frosty night,
The rustic party, with its rough
Accompaniment of blind man's buff.
And whirling plate, and forfeits paid.
His winter task a pastime made.
Happy the snow-locked homes, wherein

. He tuned his merry violin, . i.
Or played the athlete in the bam, . ■

Or held the good dame's winding yam,
Or mirth provoking versions told
Of classic legends, rare and old,
Wherein the Bcenes of Greece and Rome
Had all the commonplace of home,
And little seemed at best the odds
'Twixt Yankee peddlers and old gods •
Where Piudus-born Araxes took,
The guise of any grist-mill brook,

\m\ \t\ \i\,\M nnm

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDI^

And dread Olympus, at his will,
Became a huckleberry hill.

A careless boy that night he seemed;

Put at his desk he liad the look , '
, . And air of one who wisely schemed. ■

And hostage from the future took " ,

In trained thought and love of book. '

Large-brained, clear-eyed, — of such as he

Shall Freedom's young apostles be,

Who, following in War's bloody trail,

Shall every lingering wrong assail ;

All chains from limb and spirit strike, "

Uplift the black and white alike ;

Scatter before their swift advance ■'

The darkness and the ignorance.

The pride, the lust, the squalid sloth,

Which nurtured Treason's monstrous growth,

Made murder pastime, and the hell

Of prison torture possible.
. The cruel lie of caste refute, -

Old forms remould, and substitute

For Slaveiy's lash the Freeman's will,

For blind routine, wise-handed skill ; ' >

A school house plant on every hill,

Stretching in radiate nerve lines thence

The quick wires of intelligence,

Till North and South together brought, ^ '

Shall own the same electric thought,

In peace a common flag salute,
'? And, side by side, in labor's free , • ,

; :i :\ And unrcsentftd rivalry, ., ;

Harvest tlie fields wherein they fought"

THE DARTMOUTH STUDENT AND THE CHELSEA CLERK.

Several years since one of those students at Dartmouth, who,

as Whittier says in the above lines,

" Could doff at ease his scholar's gown
To peddle wares from town to town,'*

entered the village store at Chelsea, Vt., in search of a customer

NOnwICH UNIVERSITY.

175

for some of the bodes that he wa<» selling. Inquiring of the
clerk;, one of tliose over-smart, self-sufficient young men some-
times met with, who resembled an Indian in complexion, if he
would like to purchase, the following colloquy took place, in the
presence of the usual number of country store loungers:
Clerk — ^^ Well, yes, I should like to trade with you if you have
a particular work that I am desirous of obtaining." Student —
" I do not know that I have it, but I presume I can get it for
you — what is it?" Clerk — "It is Davis' treatise on the
Androscoggin River." Student — " I am sorry to say, sir, that
I haven't it ; but I have here a work which I think is of some
importance to you. It is an elaborate treatise on the North
American Indians, and I am authorized by the publishers to sell
it to any remnant of the several tribes at half price I "

NORWICH UNIVERSITY.

Thi'i institution is located about three-fourths of a mile from
the Norwich and Hanover depot, and about a mile and a half
from Dartmouth College. It was established in 1820 by Capt
Alden Partridge, under the name of the American Literary,
Scientific and Military Academy, and continued in a flourishing
condition until Capt. Partridge removed the school to Middle-
town, Conn. The Middletown school at length was discontin-
ued, and the principal returned to Norwich. In 1834 a charter
was obtained for the Norwich University, and among those who
have graduated at this institution, are, Hon. Thomas H. Sey-
mour, Ex-Governor of Connecticut; Rev. Theophilus Fisk ; the
late Hon. Henry W. Cushman ; Hon. Mr. Morse, of Louisiana,
formerly member of Congress; Hon. Horatio Seymour, Ex-
Governor of New York ; Hon. William L. Lee, late Chief
Justice of the Sandwich Islands ; Hon. Caleb Lyons, L. L. D.,
Governor of Idaho ; Rev. C. H. Fary ; Rev. D. S. C. M. Pot-
ter; Rev. Josiah Swett, D. D., Professor in the Episcopal
Theological Institute, at Burlington ; Robert Frazer, Esq. ;

1
fl

170

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Professor Alonzo Jackman, L. L. D. ; Gt,n. Robert Millroy .
Gen. T. G. Ransom ; Gen. Dodge ; Col. Clark, of New Hamp-
shire ; Col. Jesse A. Gove ; Col. F. Farrar ; Col. Thomas H.
Whipple ; Col. Simon Preston ; Col. Burton ; Col. G. A.
Brearex ; and Col. T. B. Ransom, who fell at Chepultopec,
Mexico, and who succeeded Capt. Partridge as President of
Norwich University, after Capt. Partridge's resignation. Capt.
Partridge, who was a native of Norwich, died and was buried
in the town.

The main building was burned in 1866, and efforts were
then made to rebuild il, but Avithout success. The school has
since been removed to Northfield, Vt. Norwich is a beautiful
place, surrounded with high hills and romantic scenery.
Among those who have lived in the town was Hon. Paul
Brigham, for twenty-four years Lieut. Governor of Vermont.

• J • POMPANOOSUC. ' ' *'

Following close upon the bank of the Connecticut you come
to Pompanoosuc station. This was formerly called Ompompa-
noosuc, an Indian name given to the little stream that you cross
before reaching the station, and signifying a river where onions
are found. From this station is sliipped large quantities of
copperas ore, taken from a mine several miles west in the town
of Strafford. It is sent to Philadelphia and England, and from
it is made sulphuric acid.

A few miles north of the station the first view of the summit

of Moose Hillock is had, opposite Newbury, in New Hampshire.
Eastward will be seen the rounded form of Bald Mountain.

THETFORD AND LYME.

This station, fifteen miles from White River Junction, accom-
modates the residents of the two towns — Thetford Jying on the
west side of the river, and Lyme on the east side, in New
Hampshire. The village of Thetford is about a mile west of
the station.

NOETH THETFOED.

177

NORTH TIIETFORD.

The scenery along the Connecticut continues picturcs(][ue and
beautiful. From this station is shipped ,opper ore from Ver-
shire. The Corinth Copper Company, now working mines at
Vershire and Corinth, are getting out 250 tons of ore per
month. It is shipped to Portsmouth and thence to Baltimore
by water, where it is smelted. A considerable quantity of the
ore is loaded upon the cars at Bradford.

;> •>v- • FAIRLEE AND ORFORD. ., ».,. ,.

Approaching the station the village of Orford will be seen on
the opposite side of the river, in New Hampshire. Here is
located a female seminary, seen a short distance east of the
river. Passing the station a ledge of rocks, rising to the hight
of two or three hundred feet, will be noticed on the left, resem-
bhng a massive wall. Still further north, about five miles from
the station, is another, equally as interesting. To the right is a
beautiful view of the valley.

\^-y-

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>',-*

..ih

BRADFORD.

This is the second most important town on the route from
White River Junction to Newport. St. Johnsbury alone
exceeding it in point of business. There is considerable man-
ufacturing done here — Waite's River, which is crossed before
reaching the station, furnishing the water power. Three thou-
sand fish kits are manufactured weekly by a single firm, and are
sent to Boston. Passengers for Topsham, Corinth, Orange,
Washington and Piermont stop at this station.

In the north-west part of the town, in Wright's Mountain, 13
a cave with several apartments, called Devil's Den. It is
thouiiht to have once been the abode of human beings.

In this town, in 1812, was manufactured, by James Wilson,
the first artificial globe made in the United States.
8*

178

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

HAVERHILL MOOSE HILLOCK.

After leaving Bradford you come in sight of Haverhill, N.
H., situated upon a hill overlooking the valley. Formerly this
was the headquarters of the stage lines extending through
Northern New Hampshire, and in those days was a place of
considerable note. As you proceed north from Haverhill the
valley is wide in extent, and the meadows broad and fertile.

In New Hampshire, east of Haverhill, you will notice Moose
Hillock, rising to the hight of 4,636 feet, the summit of which
is the first point seen from this region to indicate the approach
of winter. Sugar Loaf and Black Mountain are nearer to you,
further up the river.

« <

NEWBURY.

Distance from New York, 295 miles; from White Mountains, 25 ; Lake Mem-
phremagog, 70; Montreal, 184; Quebec, 235.

Before arriving at Newbury you will notice the village on
the left, standing on a terrace nearly a hundred feet above
the meadows. The railroad passes through a tunnel, made in
the narrow terrace, extending eastward from the village. New-
bury is one of the oldest towns on the upper Connecticut, and
few places present greater attractions for a quiet summer resi-
dence. The village, which lies upon high table land, overlook-
ing the broad meadows, contains several stores, two hotels, and
the Wesleyan Academy, a Methodist institution. Here are the
celebrated Newbury Sulphur Springs, long known to invahds
in New England. They are in the valley, east of the depot,
where a bath house has been fitted up. An analysis of the
water has been made, and it is highly recommended by able
physicians.

The scenery in and around Newbury combines the grand and
the beautiful. Hero you have broad meadows, lofty mountain
peaks, and a majestic river, and the view from the adjacent
mountains resembles that from Meruit Holyoke, in Massachu-

iktL

NBWBUET.

179

ind and
mountain
idjacent
sachu-

setts, more than any other point in the G)nnecticut Valley.

Directly in rear of Newbury is Mount Pulaski, an elevation
easy of access, and from it can be seen a wide extent of coun-
try. The tourist should ascend its summit, and look upon the
almost matchless scenery spread before him. To the right is
the valley of Haverhill, with its long street, and directly east is
Moose Hillock. To the left of it are Sugar Loaf and Black
Mountains. Further beyond, in the north-east, are the Franco-
nia Mountains, and in a pleasant day Franconia Notch can be
seen, through which tourists pass to the White Mountains. The
Profile House is only about 25 miles from Newbury.

Below, and almost underneath you, is the village of Newbury,
the green fields resembling a beautiful carpet. Abce the town
is the Great Ox-Bow, and the magnificent meadows lying along
the river. _

Among the distinguished residents of Newbury in earlier days
were Gen. Jacob Bayley and Col. Thomas Johnson, both of
whom took active part in the French and Revolutionary wars.
Col. Johnson was in the British service at Crown Point, where,
for want of provisions, horse-beef was dealt out to the men. At
the opening of the Revolution he entered the army and was
finally taken prisoner and sent to Canada. He was paroled
and permitted to return home on condition that he would not
again take up arms, and would return when called upon.

Gen. Bayley was an important man to the inhabitants of this
region, and the British determined upon his capture. June 17,
1782, Capt. Pritchard and a force of British troops came to
Newbury to take him prisoner. Reaching the bights west
of the Ox Bow, they signaled Col. Johnson, and he went
to them. He learned the object of the expedition, and on
giving them some trifling information returned home. Gen.
Bayley and two sons were in the meadows plowing, near the Ox
Bow. Johnson wrote a message and directed his wife's brother
to leave it in the field where the General would find it. Dud-
ley Carlton, the bearer of the message, di'opped it in the furrow,

if ■

180

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

;:F

and on coining to it Gen. Baylcy took it up and read, " The
Philistines be upon thee, Samson." That was enough for him.
He turned out liis team and escaped. That night an attack was
made on his house, but he was not there to be captured as his
enemies had expected. . . .

There is now a house standing in the Joljnson village, south
of the Ox Bow and east of the railroad, that was built in 1775
by Col. Johnson. The frame was raised on the day that news
reached Newbury of the battle of Lexington. Three of tlie
men who were at the " raising " enlisted and were at the battle
of Bunker Hill. One of the number, Peter Johnson, a brother
of the Colonel's, was wounded in the arm. .

' ft

THANKSGIVING POSTPONED FOR WANT OF MOLASSES.

As ludicrous as it may seem at the present time, in the early
settlement of the town Thanksgiving Day was actually post-
poned two weeks in Newbury, for want of molasses. Commu-
nication Avith the larger towns was then difficult. Thanksgiving
was appointed by the Colonial authorities Vaving jurisdic-
tion over this region, and as it happened the proclamation did
not reach Newbury until after the appointed day had passed.
The minister, on the following Sabbath, read the proclamation
and said that, inasmuch as the day had gone by, be would sug-
gest that the following Thursday be observed by the people of
the town as a day of Thanksgiving and prayer. A worthy
deacon, who enjoyed the good things of life as well as things
spiritual, rose and said that as there was no molasses in town^
and his boys had gone to Number Four (Charlestown, N. H.)
to get some, he would move that Thanksgiving be postponed
one week. The "boys" not returning, the day was again post-
poned, and, finally, the good people of Newbury were obliged
to go without their molasses altogether.. As it is inferred from
this that there was no " sweetning " in the place, a thoughtful
housewife wonders what they did for pumpkin pies.

jRjfet

TUB GEEAT OX BOW.

181

THE GREAT OX BOW.

The Great Ox Bow, just north of the villnge of Newbury,
is an object of interest to tourists. In its southern course the
Connectfcut boars off to the east and tlience back to tlie west,
making a circuit of four and a half miles, while aci-oss the neck
it is only a hundred rods.

■' v. WELLS RIVER. . '

Leaving Newbury and jiassing the Great Ox Bow you soon
come to the pleasant village of Wells River, in the town of
Newbury, 40 miles from White River Junction. Here White
Mountain tourists change cars for Littleton, it being the junc-
tion of the Boston and Montreal and White INIountains Railroads.
It is 20 miles to Littleton, from which travelers go by stage 11
miles to the Profile House and 22 to the Crawford House. The
view at this point is magnificent. Tiie Franconia range skirts
the eastern horizon. Leaving the station you cross Wells
River, a small stream which furnishes power for the mills along
its banks. For full description of White Mountains, see page
237.

■• .. ' mcindoe's falls. ' -

The Connecticut is narrower and more rapid as you approach
its source. Several miles below Mcindoe's you pass Dodge's
Falls, where the river makes a considerable descent. At
Mclndoe'3 the falls are still higher, and furnish excellent water
power. The two saw mills at this place, and the one at Dodge'9
Falls, are owned by Mr. Stephen Barker, who manufactures two
million feet of lumber annually. The logs are put into the
Connecticut many miles further north, and are floated down in
rafts in high water. After passing the station you will notice a
cove in the river, formed by a huge rock extending from the
bank. The river is only about 75 feet wide, and so rapid that
an iron bar thrown into it would not sink. Mr. Barker keeps

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oh: -

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■ 1.

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162

TUB CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

his logs in this cove until they are wanfisd at the mills. The
fall in the Connecticut from Hartford to this place is 449 feet,
and from here to Lake Connecticut, 100 miles, 1,140 feet.

♦ . BARNET. ' '

Passing Mclndoe's you soon come to Barnet. The village is
west of the railroad, mostly upon the hill. The four story wool-
en mill, owned by the Caledonia Manufacturing Company,
occupies a conspicuous position. The members of the firm are
Ex-Governor Buckingham, Amos King, Edward Chappell,
Charles King, and Edward C'arew, all of Norwich, Conn. They
contemplate erecting another factory, nearer the railroad.
Heavy fancy woolen goods are made by the company. This
town was granted to two sons of Phineas Stevens, who so gal-
lantly defended the fort at Charlestown against the French and
Indians. It was settled principally by Scotch.

* PASSUMPSIC RIVER.

Soon after leaving Barnet you come to the mouth of the
Passumpsic River, which empties into the Connecticut. The
Indian name is Bassoomsuc, signifying a stream where there is
much medicine. It is so tortuous that Dix says it resembles a
gigantic cork-screw, liqufied. Indeed it is so crooked that it is
a very smart bird that can fly from one side of the river to the
other. In a distance of 25 miles the railroad crosses the river
twenty-three times. :

ISLANDS IN THE CONNECTICUT — DIGGING FOR GOLD.

In the Connecticut River, just below the mouth of the Pas-
sumpsic, there are no less than fifteen islands. The most prom-
inent one is Gold Island, covered with spruce and cedar. Many
years ago some persons, wl had been led to believe that the
Indians had buried gold there, dug the island over in search of
it, but their efforts were rkOt rewarded with a yield of the pre-
cious metal excelling a California placer. Between this place

MCLEBAJf'S AND PASSUMPSIC.

ids

and Lunenburg, Vt., are the famous fifteen miles falls in the
Connecticut.

MCLERAN's and PASSUMPSIC.

A short distance above the mouth of the Passsumpsic you
come to McLeran's. Before the railroad was built from Wells
River to Littleton, this was the starting point for stages to the
White Mountains. The falls in the Passumpsic will be noticed
on the right. Four miles from here you pass Passumpsic
station. '- ^■ ..i.-' » '- '.'^ <:■'■'■' ■■''^^■

Many

lat the

Irch of

|ie pre-

place

,,,,.-,„.?....',.-. :,. ST. JOHNSBURT. .. ,,,■.,. -,, .■,>; !_..,. -..■

Distance from Now York, 311 miles; White Mountains, 44; Lake Memphre-
magog, 44; Montreal, 148; Quebec, ill.

Leaving Passumpsic you soon come to St. Johnsbury, the
most important station on the line. Here are the offices of the
Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroads. Main Street,
where most of the business is done, is upon the hill west of the
railroad. This is the shire town of Caledonia County, and the
large and neat Court House, built of brick, will be noticed upon
the eminence west of the depot. The view from Main Street
is extensive and pleasing. The towering hills, covered with a
luxuriant vegetation, the distant eastern mountain range, and
the valley of the Passumpsic, form a beautiful landscape. The
village has an unusually neat and thrifty appearance, and the
elegant and costly school houses, which have been erected within
the last- Yew years, speak well for the industry and intelligence
of the people. There are about 4,000 inhabitants in the town.

THE FAIRBANKS SCALES — GOVERNOR FAIRBANKS.

The life of St. Johnsbury is the Fairbanks Scale Manufac-
tory, where are employed nearly 400 hands. It is situated on
Sleeper's River, west of Main Street. With a small beginning
this establishment has grown to mammoth proportions, and at
the present time the Fairbanks Scales are used almost through-
out the civilized world. Indeed, they have become so general

THE CONNECTICUT VALf.EY GUIDE.

that it is much easier to tell where they are not used than
where they are. They are the invention of Mr. Thaddeus
Fairbanks, the only surviving member of the original firm com-
posed of three brothers, Erastus, Thaddeus and Joseph P.
Fairbanks. Like most great inventions, this had its origin in
almost a trifling circumstance, and has far surpassed even the
intention and expectation of the inventor. In 1829 there was
an excitement among the farmers in Vennont and New York
concerning the cultivation of hemp. Erastus and Thaddeus
Fairbanks were then engaged in manufacturing plows, stoves,
etc., and a company in Lamoille County applied to them to
build a hemp dressing machine. After completing it they built
one fov' themselves, having determined to carry on the business
of hemp dressing, in addition to that which they were already
doing. When the farmers began to bring in their hemp, there
was at once a want of some arrangemen^^^ to determine its weight
while upon the wagon, so as to save time and labor. The active
brain of Thaddeus was called in requisition, and he finally suc-
ceeded in perfecting a rude contrivance for weighing the hemp,
but containing essentially the principles now used in the scales.
At that time transactions by weight were confined essentially to the
use of the Even Balance, the Dearborn Beam, and the Roman
Steelyards. Erastus, who, with his quick discerning eye. saw
its importance, advised his brother to obtain a patent. Ap-
plication was made, and a patent granted, bearing date of
the year 1830. At this time it was not intended to apply the
principle to scales only for weighing hemp, hay and other agri-
cultural products ; but there being a demand for them in other
branches of business, their modifications have been multiplied
until they now number 125 — from the neat letter balance of a
fractional ounce to the ponderous weighlock scale of 500 tons.
This was the origin of the Fairbanks Scale, and, although the
hemp excitement was of short duration, it produced one of the
most important inventions to the business world that has ever
been perfected. A patent was taken out by thcro in England,

a
b

i = FAIRBANKS' SCALES.

185

and a Liverpool firm engaged in the manufacture of the scales,
but subsequent improvements and great accuracy have made
tliose of American manufacture the most popular, even in
England and tlu'oughout all Europe.

Before the opening of the railroad to St. Johnsbury, all tlieir
freight was carried by teams to Portland and Burlington. Since
the construction of the road, of whioh Governor Erastus Fair-
banks was one of the principal movers, and for several years
its President, the business has greatly increased. In 1865 tJieir
in-coming and out-going freight amounted to 5,228 tons. They
use about twelve tons of iron daily in their foundry, and in a
single year they consume about a million feet of lumber in pack-
ing boxes. Their freight bills amount annually to about $50,-
000, and their monthly pay-roll $15,000 to $17,000. Their
business, for a single year, amounts to a million of dollars.
The members of the firm are now Thaddeua, Horace and Frank-
lin, the two latter sons of Erastus. Joseph P., the youngest
brother, died in 1855, and Erastus in 1864. Charles Fairbanks,
another son of the Governor's, who was for a time a member of
the firm, retired from it several years ago, on account of ill
health.

Ex-Governor Erastus Fairbanks, the senior partner, was a
man of more than ordinary ability, although his advantages for
an early education were quite limited. lie was born at Brim-
field, Mass., 0(!t. 28, 1792, and was a son of a poor farmer.
His father being unable to give him an education, he attended
only the district school, from which he "graduated" at the age
of 17. In May, 1812, he left the parental home and went to
St. Johnsbury to reside with Judge Ephraim Paddock, a mater-
nal uncle, and in whose office it was his intention to study law.
His eyes being too weak to admit of his pursuing a course of
study, he abandoned the plan, and the two subsequent winters
taught the district school on the plain in St. Johnsl)ury. In
the summer of 1813 he was clerk in a store at Windsor. In

'I' !

186

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Ill

W!l

1814 he opened a store at Wheelock, two towns north of St.
Johnsbury, in connection with Mr. Frederick Plielps, of St.
Johnsbury, who furnished the goods — Mr. Fairbanks' only cap-
ital at this time being a horse and wagon which his father had
given him, and which he subsequently sold to a hatter for $75,
taking his pay in bats. He finally purchased the goods of Mr.
Phelps for $800, giving a note for them, to be paid the following
winter in ashes. In 1818 he sold his store in Wheelock and
removed to East St. Johnf^bury, where he opened another. In
the autumn of that year he went to Barnet, where he remained
in the mercantile business until 1824, when he removed to St.
Johnsbury and commenced business with his brothers, who, with
their parents, had removed from Brimfield to St. Johnsbury in
1815. They commenced the manufacture of stoves and plowsi
It was, however, with great difficulty that they found a sale for
the plows, as the farmers considered cast iron as too brittle a
material to successfully take the place of the rude ones made of
wrought iron and wood. They were obliged to take them to
the farmers, where they were left on trial. Finally these plows
became quite popular and had a large sale.

Governor Fairbanks represented St. Johnsbury in the Leg-
islature in 1836-7-8. In 1844 and 1848 he was chosen Presi-
dential elector on the Clay and Taylor tickets. In 1852 he
was elected Governor of Vermont, and in 1864 he died, lamented
and loved by all who knew him. ^ ^ . ,

The Messrs. Fairbanks have done much to beautify and adorn
St. Johnsbury, and their residences are models of neatness and
good taste. .<' . . -k. . i o

ST. JOHNSBURY CENTER.

Three miles, north of St. Johnsbury you come to St. Johns-
bury Center. The Passumpsic River lies between the village
and the railroad. Here is a paper mill and several manufac-
turing establishments. Above the depot is a pretty fall in the
river.

LYNDON.

«'V

187

LYNDON.

At Lyndon there is considerable business, and in the village
is a large flouring mill. West of the depot is Minister Hill,
receiving its name from the fact that it was donated to the first
minister of the town. Before reaching the village you pass,
on your right, another of those charming httle waterfalls in the
Passumpsi(;. The southern village is Lyndon Comers, and that
seen further north is Lyndon Center.

«,?■;

plows

WEST BURKE — LAKE WILLOUGHBY. ...

Passing Folsom's, where the Stage route from Lyndon
to Island Pond crosses the railroad, you come to West Burke,
16 miles from St. Johnsbury. Before reaching the station you
pass Burke Mountain on your right, 2,000 feet high, and from
which there is a magnificent view.

Here passengers leave the railroad for Lake Willoughby, six
miles distant. Mr. David Trull, proprietor of the Weet Burke
Hotel, near the station, will furnish the tourist conveyance to
that place on the arrival of the trains. Willoughby is one of the
most remarkable lakes in this country. . It lies between two
mountains, which rise abruptly from its shores to the hight of
nearly 2,000 feet. The lake is from half a mile to two miles
wide, and is six miles long. The water is so deep, in places,
that no bottom has been found. Mr. Alonzo Bemis has erected
a large hotel at the south end of the lake, where tourists can
get good accommodations. It is a wild and romantic spot,
and to the lover of nature it presents many attractions. Mr.
Robert Van Arsdale, of Newark, N. J., has built a summer
residence at the south end of the lake, and spends the summer
months here. A good view of Willoughby Mountain, rising
from the east shore of the lake, is had before you reach West
Burke Station. For a fuller description of Lake Willoughby
see page 210.

I ^

188

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

SOUTH BARTON THE SUMMIT — ^JAY PEAK. '

Leaving West Burke you soon reach the summit dividing the
valleys of the Connecticut and 8t. Lawrence. You will nolict?
the httle rivulet as you proceed north, running Houlliwanl, jvad
presently you come to another running north into Crysttd Lake,
Barton River, Lake Memphreinagog, St. Francis Kiver, and
thence into the St. Lawrence. ^ :

Jay Peak, 4,018 feet high, and one of the most lofty summits
of the Green Mountain range, will be seen in the north-west.
A carriage road has been constructed from the base to the sum-
mit, and it can be easily reached from Newport, 14 miles distant.
All the villages near its base, and the mountain peaks for nearly
a hundred miles around it, can be seen. See Page 236.

BARTON.

Continuing north you pass along upon the western shore of
Ciy^stal Lake, a small but beautiful sheet of water, and finally
come to Barton, at the outlet of the lake, where there is excel-
lent water power. The lake is about a mile wide and two miles
long. Barton was named in honor of its first proprietor, Gen.
William Barton, who will be remembered as the intrepid Lieut.
Col. Barton of Revolutionary fame. When Lieutenant-Colonel
of Rhode Island militia, he, with forty soldiers and a negro,
surprised and captured the British Maj.-Gen. Proctor while in
bed at his headquarters at Newport, R. L The town was
granted to Gen. Barton Oct. 28, 1781, under the name of
Providence, as a reward for this daring exploit. In 1789 its

name was changed to Barton.

■r.-n-

RUNAVTAY POND. . " *

About seven miles south-west of Barton depot, in the town
of Glover, is the old bed of Runaway Pond, through which the
stage road from 15arton to Montpelier now passes. It was for-
merly known as Long Pond, and was the source of the La-

BARTON LANDING.

189

moille River, which flows into Lake Chtimplain. It was about a
mile in length, three-fourths of a mile wide, and 150 feet deep,
with an outlet at the southern end. About lOU rods north of
it wiis Mud Pond, the outlet of which flowed in<o Barton l\iver,
and thence north into Lake Memphremagog. In dry se?^ons
Barton River being insufficient to supply the mills along its
banks with water, is was determined to change the outlet of
Long Pond by digging a channel from it to Mud Pond. In
June, 1810, the inhabitants of Glover and adjacent towns
assembled in great numbers for that purpose. It was com-
menced within a short distance of Long Pond and completed
to Mud Pond. The small barrier at the head of the Pond was
then removed, and instead of following the channel the water
descended into the sand beneath. The stream continued to in-
crease and finally the whole body of water rushed with great
force towards Mud Pond, carrying every thing before it. Pass-
ing through Mud Pond and into the Barton River, it gathered
force as it went. A path thirty or forty rods wide and from
twenty to sixty feet deep was hollowed out by the water.
Trees, mills, and even rocks of many tons weight were carried
away. So powerful was the current that after having gone
seventeen miles, a rock weighing a hundred tons was moved
several rods. It kept on its course until it finally passed into
Lake Memphremagog. No lives were lost, but the workmen
barely escaped. It seems that beneath the surface at the head
of the pond was a bed of quick-sand and once opened there
was nothing to prevent the water from wearing a channel deep
enough to drain the whole pond. A similar occurrence took
place in Switzerland in 1818.

BARTON LANDING.

Here are several stores and a saw mill.

The vilhiiie

received its name from the fact that smujrjrled jruods were brought

fro"

np the river from Canada and landed here. A daily stage

lifT

190

THE CONNECTICDT VALLKT GUIDE

"■' f.

runs from this place to Trasburg, three and a halif miles
westward, and which is one of the prettiest villages :n North-
em Vermont. The Irasburg House, kept by Rufus B. Rich-
ardson, will accommodate about a hundred guests.

■^. .,.-^ •■._,... COVENTRY. '..:. ,:.',..:m>,,' ,^;.: ,

Leaving Barton Landing you soon reach Coventry Station.
The village lies several miles west of the railroad. Continuing
northward you come to a bay connected with Lake MemphrS-
magog. Passing along its eastern bank you cross it on a spile
bridge, and in a few minutes are landed in front o£ the Mem-
phremagog House at «

. «iVi- ■ V'-

;v^,:,<:f4; v-^i-

v.^ NEWPORT, ^ .-',' . " V ■■ ^' \ \:^j.^'.-: ,r., ':k-"

upon the southern end of Lake Memphremagog. For several
years this was the terminus of the Connecticut and Passump-
sic Rivers Railroad. In May, 1867, the road having been
extended, was opened to v' " -';'>•

DERBY, • -

at the Canada line, five miles further north, where it connects
with coaches for steamboat and the Grand Trunk Railway,
passengers going through the same evening to Qt:ebec.

■ IV

",■■ ■^'^ V ''!■■

LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG.

.T ,(

,- , ^ .'■ '■ '■ "

_/?'

■•.',> ;?;

NEWPORT.

Distance- from New Tork, 365 miles; Springfield, 229; White Mountains, 85;

Montreal, 104; Quebec, 167.

Newport, not Newport down by the sea, but Newport, Vt.,
on the shore of Lake Memphremagog, close to the Canada
line, where years gone by smuggling was counted among
the virtues — it doesn't pay as well now — is a thriving, pleasant
country village, destined to be a place of considerable impor-
tance in the future. The scenery around it is grand and
inspiring, and the breezes from the lake are cool and refreshing.

South of the village, rising to the hight of two or three
hundred feet is Prospect Hill, overlooking the lake and the
country for miles around. From it is seen Owl's Head, Mt.
Elephantis, Mt. Orford, Jay Peak and Willoughby Mountain.
The view of the lake, with its islands and bays is remarkably
fine, especially at sunset, when all nature is tinged with a
golden hue.

The attractions around Newport are many. The tourist of
course will first want to take a sail down the lake to Magog, 30
miles distant, with Capt. Handyside, on the new iron steamer Or-
ford. It leaves at 7.30 a. m., and returns about 6 p. m. At Ma-
gog you can dine at the Parks House, visit Mount Orford, five
miles from the village, the highest mountain in Lower Canada,
and return the next day, stopping, if you choose, at the Moun-
tain House, at the base of Owl's Head, 12 miles from Newport,

11 *

»!:i

192

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

on tlic return trip. From here you can ascend to the summit
of Owl's Head, which is nearly 3,000 feet above the lake, and
from which you can get a magnificent view — the valley of the
St. Lawrence and Montreal conspicuous among the objects seen.
Fourteen miles west of Newport is Jay Peak. This mountain
lis 4,018 feet high, and from it can be seen the whole range of
the Green Mountains, including Mount Mansfield, Camel's
Hump, and Killlngton Peak. The other objects of interest to
be seen are Ascutney Mountain, near Windsor, White and
Franconia Mountains, Kearsarge, Moose Hillock, Lake Cham-
plain, the Adirondacks and Montreal.

About 25 miles south of Newport, and six from West Burke
station, is Lake Willoughby, a most remarkable and charming
place. East, about ten miles distant, is Stanstead Plain, in
Canada. The country in that region is rich and fertile, and the
drive is one of much interest. ■ ,. ■ . ,m ,

,.>' MEMPHREMAGOG HOUSE.

The Memphremagog House, at Newport, is on the shore of
Lake Memphremagog, at its southern end. ' The iron steamer,

u«M ii I in I VI

T ■" r
■S!M'

.iC

THE LAKE.

193

Orford, Capt. D. W. Handyside, commander, will be seen
lying at the dock, steam up, and ready for a trip to Magog, at
the outlet of the lake. The hotel is pleasantly situated, and
from its balconies there is a splendid view of the lake and Owl's
Head. It will accommodate 300 guests. The landlords, Buck
& Pindar, are well known to tourisis.

THE LAKE.

Over-shadowed by lofty mountain peaks which rise to the
bight of nearly 3,000 feet, and boi*dered by dense forests and
grassy slopes, in Northern Vermont and Lower Canada, is Lake
Memphremagog — the Beautiful Water. In general appearance
it resembles Lake George, in Northern New York. It is 30
miles long and two miles wide, and lies in a deep and narrow
basin. About one third of the lake is in *Vermont and the
remainder is in Canada. There are no marshes or ponds of
stagnant water along its banks, and its rock bound shores and
wooded islands give it a picturesque appearance. '" -

.. ^^ /""«. i,v

^::i\>>. in,.

THE LAKE TROUT.

Fed by mountain streams, pure and cold, it is the home of
the prince of the finny tribe, the speckled trout, which here
attain unusual proportions. It is no uncommon thing to catch
those thai; weigh from ten to fifteen pounds, while old fishermen,
who are posted on favorite localities, will occasionally show you
one weighing from 30 to 40. Ask him how it was done, and
he will tell you, with a twinkle in his eye, that he " spit on his
hook." The best fishing places are near the Mountain House,
at the base of Owl's Head, where the water is the coldest and
deepest Mr. Jennings will furnish you with boats should you
like to try your hand at it.

These trout are served, fresh from the lake, at the Memphre-
magog and Mountain Houses.

A.
I'

194

TUB CONNKOTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Sl'Hf

DOWN THE LAKE.

'' .'T *.l.l*'> J "^'»^

Refreshed with a night's sleep in this cool and bracing moun-
tain region, the tourist will prepare for a trip on the steamer
Orford, with Capt. llandyside, formerly of Lake Superior,
where he has seen long service. He will point out to you
many of the interesting places on the lake, now familiar to
him.

The plank is in, and you have waved your last " good-bye "
to friends on shore, and the httle steamer, like a thing of life,
is walking the wa^er. To your right is Indian Point extending
into the lake, and long since the abode of the red man.
Directly ahead is Bear Mountain, rnd beyond, further up the
lake, is Owl's Head, twelve miles from the Memphremagog
House. It tower^far above its neighbors, and its peculiarly
rounded summit, riven seemingly into immense fisures, will

attract your attention, -i p >i j , - > ' ', . * y ,1 •:, > ou

Leaving Newport you pass Adams' Bay on the west, and
soon afterward Potton Bay on the same side of the lake, named
after the township in which it is situated.

^'> -J^"*!:^.-? -MUnl' THE TWIN SISTERS. - 'S'i ' " - •-

Gliding smoothly over the water past Indian Point, you come
in sight of the " Twin Sisters "' — two beautiful islands covered
with evergreens, and standing near the eastern shore. Looking
between these islands, as the steamer comes abreast of them,
you will notice the village of Stanstead, in Canada, ten miles
distant.

PROVINCE ISLAND.

Straight ahead is Province Island, containing about 100 acres,
most of which was formerly cultivated by a Frenchman, who,
with his family, lived here in seclusion. Mr. Carlos Pierce, a

"'Mii^

■ liVUIIII ■■ IRim^ll 1^ Hlf «p •■•■ ■^■W*^i«^^F^pWV**TfaV

■*■« ntm pfsv I in

^ :f r

THE CANADA LINE.

195

Boston dry goods merchant, and who has a summer residence
and an extensive farm at Stanstcad, is now its proprietor. Here
he intends to raise blooded stock.

THE CANADA LINE.

The new steamer is making good headway, and you begin
to feel the exhilarating influence of the pure air and the grand
mountain and lake scenery. You are now approaching the
Canada linn and presently will pass into British waters. In
Vermont the farms and farm houses indicate thrift and enter-
prise, but beyond, in Canada, the country is wild and poorly
cultivated. Near the lake shore you will notice a clearing
extending westward up the mountains. An iron post mo'^ks the
dividing line, and it will be pointed out to you by Capt. Fogg.
Eastward, extending across the southern end of Province
Island, on the crest of the hill, you will observe a gap in the
woods which shows the course of the line on that side of the
lake. The steamer's bell is tolled and soon you will pass from
the United States to the dominions of Queen Victoria.

TEA TABLE ISLAND.

East of Province Island, and close in shore, is Tea Table
Island. It is a charming little spot, covered with cedar, and is
just the place for a rural pic-nic.

CEDARVILLE.

Beyond, on the eastern shore, is Cedarville, in the town of
Stanstead. A cedar grove comes down to the lake, and the
place has a quiet, rural aspect. The bay extends north of the
landing, and terminates in a sharp point.

fitch's iJAY.

Steaming along you are soon off Fitch's Bay, which extends
north-east about seven miles inland.

196

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

WHETSTONE ISLAND.

Near the entrance to Fitch's Bay is Whetstone Island, which
is remarkable for a quarry of Novalculite or Magog oil stone,
as it has been called. This quarry of Novalculite, which made
capital whetstones, was worked some years ago by a company
from Burke, but the British government finally put a stop to it.

J ' ' , ' " magoon's point.

On the east side of the lake you soon pass Magoon's Point,
the grassy slope of which reaches down to the water. Excel-
lent lime is burnt here, said to be the best in the country.

An unexplored cavern exists in this locality, and it has been
believed that a large amount of treasure stolen from a Roman
Catholic Cathedral was secreted there. Indeed, there are per-
sons who claim to have seen two massive gold candlesticks
which were found buried in the road near the cave.

ROUND ISLAND.

A.8 the steamer nears the base of Owl's Head, you pass
Round Island on your right. It is only half a mile from the
Mountaiu House, and is frequently visited by tourists, who hire

-TT

THE MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

197

Mr. Jennings' boats for the purpose. It is covered with cedars
and its rounded form, and rock bound shore give it an interest-
ing appearance.

THE MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

Headinnj in shore, the Orford glides swiftly up to tho
wharf of the Mountain House, which is situated at the base of
Owl's Head, in a sheltered nook, is completely shut out from
the outside world, except by lake communication. This is
twelve miles from Newport, although you can hardly believe
it, the time has passed so pleasantly. A. C. Jennings, a
veteran hotel keeper, is proprietor of the Mountain House.
North of the house is a little bay, and from it rises almost
abruptly the mountain to a great hignt. Tourists ascending
Owl's Head leave the steamer at this place, but before viewing
the scenery from so elevated a position you will continue the
trip with Capt. Handyside.

The lake and the Islands in this-T^'icinity present a pictur-
esque appearance, and you never tire in beholding the view.

MINNOAV ISLAND. ' " " - -^^ r

■ East of the Mountain House and nearer the eastern shore is
Minnow Island, named from its diminutive size. It is a favor-
ite fishing place in that region, and some of the famous lake
trout are caught there.

skinner's cave.

East of the Mountain House will be noticed Skinner's
Island, close to the water. On the north-western siue, near tho
endj is Skinner's Cave. It is an interesting locality, and
is frequently visited by the guests of the Mountain House. It
is about ten feet wide a.t the entrance, twelve to fourteen feet
high, and extends into the rocb a distan-.-e of some thirty feet,
narrowing from the entrance until the two walls meet.

198

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

■i:, V\f ,,'!

wsozr ■

•.;!^l.i. V-.

••'1 ••).;•;,(»;■ .

t' :?1.: f- ]-VM- t'V^ Vji'iU' ('

. '/

M ,m\

.•:■»

skinner's cave.
There is a legend connected witli it wlilcli Dix lias told in
verse, but before giving you his story we will state that it con-
cerns one Uriah Skinner, the bold smuggler of Magog. In
the war of 1812 smuggling was extensively carried on between
persons residing in Canada and Vermont, and Uriah was the
most successful of them all. He, however, was caught at last,
as will be seen :

JU'

WHAT BECAME OP THE BOLD SMUGGLER OP MAGOG.

•' Fancy a fellow, brawny and brown,

With very black hair that hangs shaggily down,

With whiskers remarkably bushy and black,

With fists which might give a most terri])le thwack ;

With very fierce eyes under dark heavy brows,

That flashed like a cat's when it springs on a mouse,

.'■*'■ J' ' '>

SKINNER'S CAVE.

199

Or like coals in a cavern that gleam fiery red, ' ' "''•' "'

With a great Roman nose, so uncommonly red, ' ' ' ' '^

That whenever he washed it ('twas seldom) I wis, ^

The water would certainly bubble and hiss ! •'' '•

With a mouth, firm, compressed, and much prone to a sneer,

With a purple scar stretching from chin unto ear ;

With a huge dagger stuck in the belt round his waist, • ^

And five or six pistols beside it placed ; ' '^'*

With a heavy cutlass not long nor pliant, *'*'*' '-'''" '''^'

Buch as little " Jack " used when he slaughtered the " Giant,"

With great heavy boots — and as heavy a purse,

With a tongue that scarce wagged but it uttered a curse !

Fierce as a tiger — as cruel as Nero —

Fancy all these, and you'll picture my hero ;

Whose name, for fame Las preserved the same, . ,

Was Uriah Skinner, who'd always on hand

Plenty of articles contraband.

'i^/fi

/f-i.'

Of all the smugglers who plied on the lake, ■'■" '
Uriah Skinner was hardest to take ; •; •* M

The officers hunted him often, and yet '^ •♦''♦''' '
Uriah Skinner they never could get ! '» - * " * '■ "
For if his boat they e'er chanced to have sight of,
He vanislied, as 'twere, and was speedily right off",
Like tlie Flying Dutclunan, he seemed to melt
Into mist ; so tliat some who pursued him, felt
Inclined to believe he had something to do
With a certain dark gentleman — you know who 1

ii ■ *

- 1

■ ' V .'

.i-U

The pitcher may often go to the well
Yet at last be broken . so it befell
In the case of Uriah — for that bold chap
Was caught at last like a rat in a trap 1

o>4 hsiA

Night on the lake, so clear and calm,

The night breeze sings in the pines its psalm ;

Stars shine bright in the dark blue sky.

h ill

200 THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

And tlie crescent moon sails in her glory on high :

Above and below, it is all serene,

Who, as he gazed on the peaceful scene .; .,|.>, v < ^j ;

At that moment, would fancy that nine or ten »,,

Very keen sighted, and well armed men, , .

Motionless, and still as the dead, ^n

Were ambushed under the great Owl's Head ?

And their ears were open as well as their .eyes, ^ •, ,,

Listening and looking alike for a prize ;

There they watched to catch the first glimpse or note

Of Skinner, expected that night in his boat.

&■ f-

•'Look — don't you see ! \'j,'

That, Skinner must be 1 "
Oh, Skinner ! bold smuggler 1 tliere's peril for thee !
For down to the shore with leap and bound,
The officers rush — as goes a blood-hound
On a fugitive's track when the scent is found !
The boat is manned, and tliey're off the next minut^
They see Skinner's boat, and Uriah S. in it;
Now the chase gi'ows eager and hot, ■■■■;;;.■ :y i' •

And Skinner himself thinks so too, I wot, i; < - y
For n'lS boat speeds over the waters blue,
Swiftly as flieth an Indian's canoe,
And he has an Indian's craftiness too;
Now they near him — now they are on
His heels as it were — and now — He is gone I

,.-/:(

<i-,f

But where ?

How they stare ,,i;v

And rave and swear 1
And how — here, there, and everywhere.
The island they search — for they think, like the deer
Who leaves the forest and takes to the floods,
The smuggler has quitted the lake for the woods !
But all they find is the empty boat,
Which one of the officers pushes afloat :
The fruitless search they at length give o'er,

."1 m

LONG ISLAND — BALANCE ROCK.

And Uriah; Skinner was never seen more !
'Tis said, that one of the officers swore,
A strong brimstone odor pervaded the shore !
And another averred that he saw Skinner go
In the clutch of old Nick, to the regions below.

Nearly six years had passed away, • ■; •

When a fisherman out'in a storm one day,
Was very near making an awful plunge
To become a meal for the pickerel or longe ;
But through the mist, gazing eager-eyed,
In the side of an island, a cave he spied,
And in less than a minute, was safe inside.

201*

Very soon passed the storm, and then.

Ere he prepared to go fishing again,

He looked above, beneath, and around,

And what do you think the fisherman found ?

Neither a golden nor a silver prize,

But a skull with sockets where once were eyes ; ',

Also some bones of arms and thighs, ,

And a vertebral column of giant size : .

How they got there, he could' t de\1se.

For he'd only been used to common place graves,

And knew nought of " organic remains " in caves ;

On matters like those, his wits were dull, ■ -. •:

So he dropped the subject as well as the skull.

• ' 'Tis needless to say

In this later day, ' '' ' '^

'Twas the smuggler's bones in the cave, that lay :
All I've to add is — the bones in a grave
Were placed, and the cavern was called ' Skinner's Cave.' "

LONG ISLAND — BALANCE ROCK.

North of Skinner's Cave is Long Island. It is about a mile
and a half long, and half a mile wide. It has a bold and rocky
9*

202

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

^'i

BALANCE ROCK.

•

shore, and near its northern end, on the western aide, are some
perpendicular rocks, named the Palisades.

On the southern shore of the island is the lamous Balance
Rock, so frequently visited by tourists. Capt. H. will point
it out to you, but you would do well to row over to it in a skiff
while at the Mountain House. It is a huge granite rock of
many tons weight, resting upon another close to the water's
edge and poised upon a single point, as seen in the illustration.
How it got into its present position is a matter of speculation.

li
t

' : 1 ■

I ' 9

MOLSON S ISLAND.

Further north is Molson's Island, on the eastern side of the
lake. It is owned by Mr. Molson, a Montreal broker, whose
summer residence will be noticed eastward upon the hillside,
from which there is indeed a picturesque view.

THE SCENEKY CANADIAN RESIDENCES.

At this point there is some of the best scenery on the lake.
From the west shore. Owl's Head rises abruptly to a great
hight and its cone-like shape will attract your attention. Fur-

■ Ill" iiMii . I I MVi

MOUNT ELKPHANTIS.

203

ther north is Mount Elephantis, and in the distance, between
the two mountains is Jay Peak.

The eastern shore which rises to the hight of several hun-
dred feet above the lake, is adorned with the summer residences
of the wealthy business men of Montreal. Among thera are
Judge Day's, IVIr. Molson's and Mr. Chapman's.

>. •>'"'- MOUNT ELEPHANTIS. :'t ' •' >

You are now past Mount Elephantis or Sugar Loaf, as it is
sometimes called. The upper point bears resemblance to an
elephant's head and back. As ' you proceed north, you will
observe that this mountain is in the shape of a horse shoe.
Within the curve is some excellent farming lands, situated upon
an elevated plain above the lake. Capt. Fogg has given this
locality the name of " Sebastopol," from its impregnable
position.

CONCERT POND.

West of the most elevated point of Mount Elephantis, lying
between that and Ridge Mountain, is Concert Pond. It is sev-
eral hundred feet above Lake Memphremagog, and abounds in

■|!|« I

TTT

204

THE C0NNEC5TICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

^^mt

'^^H

;

If^M

'luj^H

brook trout. It is a favorite fishing place for tourists. The
Pond is two miles long and half a mile wide, and the view
of it from Mount Elephantis is exceedingly beautiful.

GEORGEVILLB.

Upon the eastern shore of the lake, about twenty miles from
Newport, and seven and a half from the Mountain House, is
Georgeville. It contains two hotels and several stores, and is
the most important place along the lake. Capt. Fogg resides
here, and in the bay south of the village the Mountain Maid
wa^ built.

knowlton's landing.

At Georgeville Capt. Fogg takes in the mail and heads
towards Knowlton's Landing, on the w^est side of the lake.
This is the crossing place for the inhabitants in the eastern
townships when going to Montreal. For nearly thirty years
Capt. Fogg has carried the mail across the lake at this place,
commencing firbc with a canoe. The lake is three miles wide,
and will average 300 feet in depth, from one shore to the other.
Stages run rej^ularly from Knowlton's to Waterloo, 20 miles
distant, where they connect with the Stanstead, Shefford and
Chambly Railroad, for St. John's and Montreal.

Sergeant's Bay extends some five miles inland, northeast
from Knowlton's. •

GIBRALTAR POINT.

Leaving Knowlton's you pass Gibraltar Point on your left.
The rocks rise perpendicularly from the lake, presenting
a magnificent appearance. On the summit, near the southern
point, is the boundary corner of four towns — Potten, Bolton,
Stanstead and Magog. ii

lord's island.
Turning Gibraltar Point and coming into the lake again,
you get an extensive view. In the distance you will notice

■yTTf

• MOUNT ORFORD.

205

Lord's Island, the last one of any importance before reaching

MOUNT ORFORD.

For .some time, in looking north your eye has rested upon an
elevation, peering above the distant hills. As you approach
tlie northern end of the lake its elevated summit is more
distinctly seen. This is Mount Orford, 3,300 feet high, and
the most extensive mountain in Lower Canada. It is five
miles from Magog, and a carriage road has been constructed to
its summit. :\

MAGOG.

The whistle of the Mountain Maid is blown and you will
notice that she is heading in shore. Ahead is the village of
Magog, at the outlet of the lake. Coming up to the wharf, the
steamer is made fast and you go on shore. A few minutes
walk will take you to the Parks House, kept in true Cana-
dian style. The village is somewhat antidiluvian in appear-
ance and you wonder if some of the early settlers did not come
over in the ark. Here the water in the outlet makes a great
descent, furnishing excellent power for the many saw mills.
Beyond the town, towards the base of Mount Orford is a wide

IM.

206

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY. GUIDE.

belt of forest, and for many miles around there is an unlimited
supply of the best of timber, principally spruce.

A stage runs from Magog to Sherbrook, on arrival of the
steamer, 16 miles distant, where the tourist can proceed by
the Grand Trunk Railway to Quebec or to Montreal. The
distance from Sherbrook to Quebec is 121 miles. Another
stage runs to Waterloo, 21 miles distant, where you can
connect with the Stanstead, Sheflford & Chambly Railroad.
By this route to Montreal it is 84 miles.

% {'

\ ■

THE RETURN TRIP.

Hsving spent a few hours at Magog, the steamer's whistle is
blown and you go on board to make the return trip. The
view up the lake, towards the south is exceedingly beautiful.
In the dim distance, lying between Owl's Head and Mount
Elephantis, is Jay Peak, and the Green Mountain range.
The Mountain Maid steams on through the water, making here
and there an occasional stop until you finally reach the Moun-
tain House. Leaving the steamer to spend the night with Mr.
Jennings, you wave a "good-bye" to Capt. H., and pass up
the steps to the hotel. '■- < v^^<'^ ^ w^^^! '

^.i^rti.'>

^f!*

■i'i^,-\

'^P

owl's head as SEEN FROM THE NORTH.

»-T-vJ-y-f^-W-.,^ -p.. ,-.^«:.

OWL S HEAD

207

■.^<

« • ,r't^*«t

owl's head as seen from the north.

Up with the sun, after a night's sleep, you step out upon the
high point of rocks soutli of the house to enjoy the view.
Here you watch sunb'ght and shadow until summoned to break-
fast. The morning meal over, you commence to fit out ixTr a
trip to the summit of Owl's Head. Staff in hand you leave
the hotel. For a little way the course is tolerably level, but
after about ten minutes walking, the ascent commences in
earnest. On either side the path is bounded by woods, where
the wild bird sings and the squirrel gambols undisturbed.
Before long, you perceive before and above you, a singular
rock of very large size, projecting over the path from the right
hand side. This is called Shelter Rock ; a name not altogether
inappropriate, as a large party might find refuge from a shower
beneath its overhanging portion. Not far beyond " Shelter," is
High Rock — a huge mass of stone crowned with plumy ferns,
and half clad with the greenest moss. . little brook of the
purest water is soon reached — it is this stream which supplies
the fish pond below. The rivulet crossed, after a rather steep
" grade," you hear the tinkle of cow-bells, and suddenly enter a
large open space, almost circular in shape and nearly level.
After the brisk climbing, the pathway through the Old Field,
as it is termed, is a pleasant change enough. You may, if you
choose, loiter and pick berries and wild flowers, which are very
abundant. A maple gi'ove is next passed, and then you arrive
at a circular sort of basin named Fern Hollow. Still ascend-
ing, you reach Fern Rock, where a botanist might long luxu-
riate. The way now becomes pretty steep, but if you halt
occasionally to recover breath, you may use your eyes as well
as rest your lungs, for there are plenty of objects worthy atten-
tion. For here is Birch Rock. On the steep hill-side above
you are two large, oblong granite rocks — their ends being
placed so close together that there does not appear room to
place a finger's point between them. Yet in that fissure is suf-

fl '

-f

208

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

ficient cartli to nourish a fine birch tree, which seems to rise
from, and grow out of the lower stone. Onward and upward
we go, until we are brought to a stand at the Toll-Gate, where
it is by no means an unusual tiling to find a toll-keeper also.
This Toll-Gate is formed by two large rocks, from whose upper
surface trees spring upwards, and between which, there is just
room for one very stout, or two very slim persons to walk
abreast. Hoops have no chance here, unless the circles are
changed into ovals, or elipses. Occasionally a lady has been
compelled to retire to a leafy bower, hard by, called Crinoline
Chamber, and divest herself of all "hindrances," for a Camel
may as well attempt to go through the eye of a needle
as a fashionably dressed lady to get through the Toil-Gate.
This perilous "pass" having been accomplished, the next
object of attraction is Chair Rock, from whose summit the first
view of the lake during the ascent, is obtained.

Passing along you come to Breakneck Stairs. Next come
Jennings' and Winding Staircase, and then Refreshment Hol-
low, where your little tin can will be found useful in conveying
water from the spring to your lips. Somewhat refreshed, you
press forward and soon stand on the summit of Owl's Head —
nearly 3,000 feet above the waters of Memphremagog.

The prospect is magnificent beyond description. Looking
south you see Clyde, Barton and Black Rivers, Newport, all
the islands on the lake, and the lake itself from end to end.
To the north, Durham's Point, Dewey's Point, Knowlton Bay,
the Outlet, Orford Mountain, and countless other objects. To
the eastj Seymour Lake, Stanstead Plain, Rock Island, Sa-
lem Pond, Charleston Pond, Derby Center, Derby Line, Wil-
loughby Lake, White Mountains, Little Magog, Massawip-
pee Lake, Georgeville, &c. To the west, the continuation
of the Green Mountain Range. To the north-west, the Sugar
Loaf and Ridge Mountain, Broome Lake and North and South
Troy. In a clear day Montreal can be distinctly seen in the
north-west.

owl's head.

209

The summit itself, as might be expected from its appearance
from below, is all split up or riven into gorges and ravines,
from which four distinct peaks ascend. In one of these ravines
is the Freemason's Lodge, so named from the fact that the
Golden Rule Lodge of Stanstegd, hold a lodge there once a
year, on the 24th of June. It is a spot well calculated for ex-
ercising the mysteries of the craft. On a triangular rock are
painted the compass and square, and below that masonic
emblem, other inscriptions. . -, —

poking
^rt, all
end.
Bay,
To
, Sa-
Wil-
^awip-
lation
)Ugar
south
the

THE NEW mON STEAMER ORFORD.

Montreal and Boston capitalists purchased in 18C7, the
steamer Mountain Maid, so long commanded by Capt. Fogg,
aixl the interests of the company. The Lake Memphremagog
Steam Navigation Company, with Mr. Allen, of Montreal, as
President, was then organized. The hull of an iron steamer,
built on the Clyde at Glasgow, Scotland, was purchased and
taken to Magog, where it was completed and placed upon the
Lake. The steamer is 170 feet long, 45 wide on mam deck,
and is divided into four water-tight compartments. It has
two boilers and a beam engine, (36-inch cyhnder) that were
made at Montreal. It is neatly and conveniently fitted up,
with dining saloon and ladies* cabin, and everything that is
possible has been done to make it a first-class pleasure boat.
It has been named the " Orford," and is commanded by Capt.
Wm. D. Handyside, late of Lake Superior, with George C.
Merrill, formerly of the Mountain Miaid, as Purser. The
speed of the steamer is 17 miles per hour, and will make close
connections with stages and trains for Montreal, Quebec, and
Lake Champlain.

r''i -I

WILLOUGHBY lAKE. .,

WHERE SITUATED — GENERAL APPEARANCE.

In Northern Vermont, in the town of Westmore, little more
than 20 miles from the Canada line and 350 from New York,
is Willoughby Lake, bordering which there is some of the most
wonderful and sublime scenery found in New England. The
Lake is six miles long, the northern end curving a little to the
east, and from half a mile to two mdes wide. Its depth is so
great that no reliable measurement of it ha.^ been made. Be-
tween the mountains, in the narrowest place, where the water
is the deepest, it has been sounded to the depth of 600 feet, and
no bottom was found. ' ' ;. '. .»

On e'*^b.er side rises a huge mountain to more than 2,000 feet
— Mount Willoughby, on the east side, according to a brirome-
trical measurement made in 1860 by the Vermont State Geolo-
gist, to 2,638 feet above the lake and 3,800 feet above the sea.

SINGULAR APPEARANCE OP MOUNT WILLOUGHBY FROM THE

CARRIAGE ROAD.

A carria ~e road was constructed several years ago along the
eastern shore of the lake, from which you get a better view of
the mighty grandeur of Mount Willoughby than from any other
point near its base. For nearly two miles a perpendicular wall
of granite rock, intermingled with silicious limestone, rises to
the bight of 600 feet, while below, between it and the lake, tlie
Bide of the ^lountam for more than a thousand feet in hight,
which is covered with huge rocks, is little less than perpen-
dicular.

Iiki^

ttle more

[iw York,

the most

iid. The

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ide. Be-

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the water
feet, and

2,000 feet

LAKE

bnrome-

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, lake, the

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in hight,

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i './.,> J , ... ii...

212

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

f ! !

A VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.

Leaving the hotel just south of the lake, you enter the woods,
and after a walk of two miles through the forest of maple, heech
and spruce, passing two springs of the purest and coldest of
water, you reach the summit very littls fatigued. From here
you get a ma^^nificent view. East are the Franconia and White
Mountains — th^ summit houses of Mount Washington beins
easily seen with a glass in a clear day. West you have before
you the entire range of the Green Mountains, among which can
be seen the summits of Killington Peak, Camel's Hump, Mount
Mansfield and Jay Peak. Between these two great mountain
ranges, and within your vision, are ponds, wide forests, culti-
vated fields, farm houses and villages, formmg a magnificent
scene.

Having beheld the distant view, you walk further to the west
and approach close to the mighty precipice, where you look
down upon the lake, 2,500 feet below. At first your nerves may
betray signs of weakness, but shortly overcoming all fear you
are absorbed in the grandeur of the scene. The purity and
transparency of the water of the lake is here observed. Alms;
its shores for several miles, every rock and sunken log, and al-
most the little fishes, can be seen. From hsre you have a view
of the entire length of the lake, the eastern shore of which
seems almost in a straight line. Mo\mt Hor, on the west side,
and Mount Willoughby on the east, have the appearance of once
having been united, and you wonder what mighty agency in
years long past were employed to rend them asunder. Some
geologists are of the opinion that during the drift period a
northern current rushed through here and wore away the calca-
reous rock, which had become partially decomposed. However
this deep and narrow gorge was formed, it is a place of rare
interest to the student of nature and the lover of the sublime.

WILLOUGHBY LAKE.

213

The tourist will now descend to the valley below, well paid
for the time it has taken to ascend the summit.

ic.

1:^

. THE WILLOUGHBY LAKE HOUSE.

To reach this most charming plat^e, the tourist will leave the
cars at West Burke, 77 miles from Wliite River Junction, and
28 miles south of Lake Memphremagog. At the depot you
will find a carriage in readiness to take you to the Lake House,
six miles distant. The Hotel is kept by Mr. Alonzo Bemis,
and is situated in a delightful place, south of the lake, which
it overlooks. There is always a good breeze through the
valley, and even in the warmest of weather you will fiiid
this a co<j1 and delightful resort. The Hotel will accommodate
about a hundred guests, and under the management of Mr.
Bemis it has become widely known. Horses and carriages are
kept for guests who may wish to visit the neighboring placea
of interest, and on the lake you will find row-boats for tliose

Jl' !• ■ J

214

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

who may desire to fish for lake trout, or sail along the shores.
There is also good trout fishing m the streams in the immediate
vicinity of the Hotel.

Excepting the farm-house and other buildings connected with
the Hotel, and the summer residence owned by Mr. Robert Van
Arsdale of Newark, N. J., there are no other buildings in the
vicinity. The quietness of the place and the beautiful scenery,
are in refreshing contrast with the stirring, bustling scenes of
city life which the tourist has just left behind.

The accompanying engraving of the lake and mountains is
from a photograph by Mr. B. F. Gage, of St. Johnsbury, and
it will give the tourist a good idea of the place, but no picture
can give you a correct representation of its sublimity and
grandeur.

Looking down the lake towards the north from the Hotel,
you will observe the summit of Owl's Head in Canada, thirty
miles distant.

The Hotel is supplied with pure, cold spring water, brought
in pipe? from the hillside. From the Hotel it runs north into
the lake, and thence into Lake INIemphremagog and the St.
Lawrence. About twenty rods in rear of the Hotel is a little
lakelet, which discharges into a small stream running south uito
the Passumpsic and thence into the Connecticut. It is situated
so near the water-shed between Long Island Sound and the
St. Lawrence, that a few hours work would change its outlet
from the Connecticut to the St. Lawrence.

f I

THE WALKS AND DRIVES.

The walks and drives around Willoughby are numerous and
pleasant. That do\vn the lake shore, under the frowning walls
of Mount Willoughby will first claim your attention. You enter
the forest which overhangs the road and pass along under tlie
grateful shade. Presently you come to a huge granite rock, at
least twelve feet high, which at some time came from the moun-
tain above. Passing along you come to another granite rock

WILLOUGHBY LAKE.

215 *

lying in the lake. You climb down the bank and walk out upon
it, and from which you have a magnificent view. Don't be
alarmed — but below you is the " Devil's Den." The rock con-
tains a cavern, and in it the "old fellow" is supposed to have,
held court in times past. Above you, at the foot of the perpen-
dicular wall, is the " Flower Garden," where many rare plants .
are found. It is visited by botanists who have discovered vari-
eties of plants ft>und in no other place north of southern Penn-
sylvania. Continuing north you come to the '' Silver Cascade,"
where a little stream leaps down the rocks from the mountain.
A short distance north is " Point of Rocks," where the mountain
approaches close to the lake, and once filled the road at this
place.

The scenery dbwn the entire length of the lake is grand and
beautiful, although not so rugged as it is before reaching " Point
of Rocks." On the opposite side is Mount Hor, Sugar Loaf
and Bear Mountain, covered with a maple and spruce forest.

The distances from the hotel to other places of interest are :
Island Porifl, where there is a good hotel, 20 miles ; Newport
by team, 20; Derby Line, 22; Stanstead Plain, 23; St. Jolms-
bury, 22; Barton, 11; West Charleston, 10; Burke Mountain,
10 ; West Burke, 6 ; Newark, 6.

In going to Barton, about a mile and a half east of the depot,
you come to the " Flume." The stream from May's Pond passes
through it, descending into Crystal Lake, In the solid granite
rock is a passage way for the water 140 feet long, 10 feet wide,
and from 20 to 30 feet in depth. The walls rise almost perpen-
dicularly, and are as smooth as if cut by the hand of man-
Some utilitarian has constructed a saw-mill over it and turned
it to practical account, thus greatly marring its beauty. It is,
however, in its present state well worth vnsiting.

Plunket Falls, in Clyde River, in Charleston, twelve miles
from Willoughby Lake House, are exceedingly beautiful. Here
the river makes a descent of a hundred feet in half a mile, and

'. I

216

THE CONNECTICtTT VALLEY GUIDE.

at one point below the saw-miJl it makes almost a perpendicular
fall of thirty feet.

Another favorite ride from the hotel is to Newark Hill, from
which can be seen the White and Green Mountain ranges.

There are other drives in this vicinity none the less interesting
than these, and the tourist will find Willoughby one of the most
charming and home-like resorts found in this interesting region.
Should he stop only for a single day he will have^o occasion to
regret the visit.

■•- ■".":•. "-.n^

c ' .;•■,•■ ■ ■ ,j-; f,

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MOUNT IIOLYOKE.

;.-i!<v

■ ..•I- n'.

WHERE SITUATED.

»(ji> ,#■.

Mount Holtoke, which is situated two miles from North-
ampton, Mass., is part of a mountain ridge of greenstone, com-
mencing with West Rock, near New Haven, and extending
northerly across the State of Connecticut, and finally terminating
in Belcliertown, Mass. It is on the east side of the Connecti-
cut River, and its summit forms the boundary line between the
towns of Hadley and South Hadley. Its hight is 1,175 feet
above the sea, and about 1,000 above the river.

J - THE VIEW.

It is probable that there is no other mountain of the same
hight in this country, from which the view is so extensive and
beautiful. Thousands visit it annually and are enraptured with
the magnificent landscape spread before them. N. P. Wilhs
has written enthusiastically of it, and " in point of cultivation
and f(;rtile beauty," he truly remarks, " it is probably the richest
in America." The late Edward Hitchcock, formerly President
of Amherst College, in his work on the Geology of Massachu-
setts says :

" In the view from Mount Holyoke we have the Grand and
the Beautiful united, the latter, however, greatly predominating.
The observer finds himself lifted up nearly a thousand feet
from the midst of a plain, which northerly and southerly, can
scarcely be less than one hundred and fifty miles ; and so com-
paratively narrow is the naked rock on which he stands, that
he wonders why the winds and storms of centuries have not
10

- F"

218

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

'^l$VUM;

broken it down. He soon, howevei', forgets the mountain be-
neath him, in the absorbing beauties before him ; for his eye
rests on a rich alluvial valley, geometrically diversified in the
summer with grass, corn, grain and whatever else laborious in-
dustry has there reared. Mount Tom is higher than Holyoke,
yet most of the interesting group of objects around the base of
Holyoke, is w^anting .around that of Tom. Hence Tom is not
much frequented, while during the summer months Holyoke is
a place of great resort. The "^ Prospect House " is situated,
undoubtedly, on the most commanding spot on the mountain."

o .

O .
H

ft "'■'■

%-■

H
O

oa
H

i;Ui4:i;irftiii'i;ii!i iiiiiJ,ii:iii:lii'llilliitiliiillilii!'|l

The above view shows Mounts Holyoke and Tom, as seen
from the north-east — Holyoke on the left and Tom on the right

MOUNT HOLYOKE.

219

WHAT CAN BE SEEN FROM THE SUMMIT.

The view from Mount Holyoke extends more than a hundred
miles up and down the valley of the Connecticut, and mountains
in four States can be seen, viz : Monadnock, N. H., Green, Vt.,
East and West Rock, New Haven, Conn., Greylock, Wachu-
sett. Sugar Loaf, Norwottuck, Toby, Tom, and Nonotuck, Mass.

Thirty-eight towns and villages can be seen with the aid of
the telescope, nearly all of whicli are visible to the naked eye,
thirty-one in Massachusetts, and seven in Connecticut, as fol-
lows: — Northampton, Haydenville, Williamsburgh, Goshen,
Hadley, Hatfield, Whately, South Deerfield, Greenfield, Shel-
bume, Sunderland, North Hadley, North Amherst, Amherst,
Pelham, Belchertown, Granby, South Hadley, Wilbraham,
North Wilbraham, Springfield, Chicopee, Holyoke, Longmeadow,
West Springfield, Agawam, Southampton, Easthampton, Mont-
gomery, Blanford, Ludlow, in Massachusetts; Thompsonville,
Windsor, East Windsor, Enfield, Hartford, Sufiield and Somers,
in Connecticut.

Among the objects of special interest that can be seen are :
State Lunatic Hospital and Pound Hill, at Northampton ; Wil-
liston Seminary, Easthampton ; Amherst College and Massa-
chusetts State Agricultural College, Amherst ; Mount Holyoke
Female Seminary, South Hadley ; Wesleyan Academy, Wil-
braham ; United States Armory, at Springfield ; Manufacturing
Town of Holyoke ; Old Hadley, with her beautiful streets ;
Ox-Bow Island ; Shepherd's Island in the Connecticut River &c.

m-r

220

THE CONNECTICUT VALLET GUIDE.

JHi>i\ \S'ii

MOUNT HOLYOKE FROM SOUTH-WEST.

^- LookiujT at INIount Ilolyoke from a point north of Smith's
' Ferry, you have the view, sketched by the artist, as shown in
the above illustration.

WHO NAMED IT.

Mount Ilolyoke was named in 1654 after Capt. Elizur Ilol-
yoke, one of tlio first proprietors of Northampton, and it is stated
that Mount Tom, on the opposite (west) side of the Connecticut
River, received its name from one Rowland Thomas. There
are various traditions concerning this matter, but the following,
as stated by Dr. Holland in his History of "Western Massachu-
setts, is the most probable, as well as quite poetical : " A com-
pany of the first settlers of Springfield went northward to
explore the country. The party headed by Elizur Holyoke
went up on the east side of the river, and another headed by
Rowland Thomas went up on the west side. The parties ar-
riving abreast, at the narrow place in the river below Hock-*
anum, at what is now called Rock Ferry, Holyoke and Thomas
held a conversation with one another across the river, and each,
tlien and there, gave his name to the mountain at whose feet
ho stood. The name of Holyoke remains uncorrupted and

^HiKS|dL^^^|i^r/^

BIOUNT IIOLYOKE.

221

without abbreviation, wliilo INIoiint Thomas has been curtailed
to simple and lioniely ' Tom.' "

THE DIFFICULTY OP VISITINO MOUNT IIOLYOKE IN FOUMER

DAYS.

It i^ probable that Mount Ilolyoke has been frequently visited
since the first settlement of Northampton, more than two hun-
dred years ago, but its summit, on which the Prospect House
is situated, and the most sightly place on the mountain, has not
been easy of access until within the last eight or ten years. A
number of old people have visited the Prospect House within
a few years, who used to make pilgrimages to the spot on which
the house now stands, upwards of three-quarters of a century
ago, when there was scarcely a foot-path to that locality. •• In
those days and at subsequent periods, it was customary for
parties who visited the mountain, to take with them an ample
supply of provisions for an all-day trip. A wood-road led up
the mountain, near the place where the north road was locat-
ed ; but instead of running southerly to where the stable now
stands, it bore off easterly to the gorge in the mountain east
of the Prospect House, known then as " Taylor's Notch," from
which place a foot path led to the summit.

THE FIRST HOUSE AND HOW IT WAS BUILT.

The mountain becoming so much of a place of resort, it was
deemed desirable to have a house erected on the summit, where
shelter and refreshments could be provided wl en needed. In
the early part of 1821, a public meeting was held in Northamp-
ton for the purpose of devising a plan for the erection of a
suitable building. A committee of five was appointed to solicit
subscriptions, of whom Samuel F. Lyman, Nathaniel Fowle,
• Robert H. Tliayer, were members. Mr. Lyman, who was a
law student in Northampton at that time, now Judge of Pro-
bate, was the leading spirit in the enterprise. He was appointed
chairman of the committee, and succeeded in procuring sub-
scriptions in materials to the amount of $120, besides a con-

222

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

i :

siderable amount in labor. The 17th day of June, the anni-
versary of the Battle of Bunker Hill, was the time fixed to
ereet the building. The church bells in Northampton and
Hadley were rung at six o'clock in the morning, and a large
number of people in those towns, turned out and started moun-
tainward with tools, lumber and provisions. Before noon there
were nearly three hundred people present on the mountain, to
assist in the erection of the house. The lumber was taken up
the wood-road to Taylor's Notch, and thence carried by hand
to the summit. The timber for the frame of the building
was cut on the mountain, and the work was laid out and con-
ducted by Thomas Pratt and ^benezer Eatoin, who were the
" boss " carpenters. The building was fifteen by twenty-two
feet, and was covered with rough boards. /-. ;, ' ■

(".

I ■:

A NIGHT ON THE MOUNTAIN.

The house not being completed, quite a large number of the
young men, some of whom had volunteered in the enterprise,
more for the sake of having a "jolly time " than from any par-
ticular love of mountain scenery, or the benefit the house would
be to the public, remained on the mountain over night, sleeping
in buffalo robes carried there for that purpose. As water was
scarce and liquor abundant, some of the " manifestations " of
that night would bear the interpretation that the party had con-
sumed during the day a little water with a good deal of brandy
in it. Among those who remained on the mountain during the
night, were Samuel F. Lyman, Nathaniel Fowle, Robert H.
Thayer, Josiah Dickinson, Thaddeus Russell and "William
Tower — ^all of Northampton.

THE HOUSE COMPLETEI — ORATION BY HON. ELIJAH II. MILLS.

The building was completed on Saturday, the following day'
after it was commenced. Then came the dedication. A large
number of people from the adjoining towns participated, includ-
ing the venerable Dr. Woodbridge, of Hadley. An eloquent

MOUNT HOLYORE.

228

WILLS.

|g day'

large

Includ-

pquent

oration was clcHvered by Elijah H. Mills, of Northampton, in
which he portrayed the beauties of mountain scenery described
in sacred and profane history, and then instituted a comparison
with the grandeur of Holyolce. The address produced a great
sensation, and a Iladley man, who was one of Dr. Woodbridgo's
parishioners, declared quite emphatically that there was a good
deal more Bible in it than in any of the Doctor's sermons.

This being before the days of temperance societies, there
were no pledges to break, and as they had drawn inspiration
from something more powerful than romantic scenery and elo-
quent words, all were jubilant in the highest degree over what
had been accomplished, and it is presumable that a more "jolly **
party has never left the mountain since, than did on that Satur-
day. Among those present, either on the first or last day, in-
cluding those previously mentioned, were Samuel F. Lyman,
Nathaniel Fowle, Robert H. Thayer, Elijah H. Mills, Dr. Da-
vid Hunt, Josiah Dickinson, Ansel Wright, Sylvester Bridgman,
Thomas Pratt, Thaddeus Russell, Ebenezer Eaton, William
Tower, George Parsons, all of Northampton, and Dr. Wood-
bridge, and Cotton White, of Iladley, besides many others from
those and neighboring towns. It is a memorable fact that thig
was the first house built on any mountain in New England.

. • t THE HOUSE LEASED.

During that summer the house was visited by a very large
number of people, and from the time the house was built to the
first of October, upwards of 6,000 names were entered in the
register kept on the mountain for that purpose. In a single day
that season there were visitors at the Mountain House who re-
corded their names from no less than twenty-three towns. Wil-
lis Pease, of Florence, then residing at the foot of the mountain,
was the first person who kept refreshments in the new house.
Mr. Pease states that an agreement was made with him in Au-
gust to lease the house for three years by paying $21, the

■WrJ
m '

224

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

\ M

I I

amount then due on the house, for matorlal, &c. He was to
meet the persons who then had charj^e of it at the "Warner
House on the foUowuig morning, when he was to pay over the
money and take the lease. But when the individuals who had
made the verbal agreement to lease tlie house to Mr. Pease
were going home from the mountain, they stopped at the hotel
kept by Zadok Lyman, at Ilockanum, and mentioned to Mr.
Lyman that Mr. Pease was to take the lease of the house. He
objected, on the ground that it would injure his hotel, and urged
them to lease the house to him. Thoy finally consented to, and
gave him the lease. The next day Mr. Pease went to North-
ampton, but to find that he was too late.

.( THE PREMISES SOLD AND A NEAV HOUSE BUILT.

^ The Mountain House stood on land owned by Thomas Moody,
of Granby, and Mr. Pease having determined to get possession
of it, purchased nine acres of land, including that part on which
the house stood, for which he gave twenty-seven dollars. The
purchase was made on the 28th day of August. The deed
states " that it was common and undivided land, in South Ilad-
ley, situated in Thomas Hovey's second choice in the two thou-
sand acre division, conveyed to Willis Pease by Thomas Moody."
Mr. Pease, after he had purchased the land, finding that he was
unable to get possession of the house without resorting to legal
measures, concluded to build another, and about thanksgiving
time went to Erving's Grant, now the town of Erving, and bar-
gained for the necessary lumber. During the winter he hauled
it home, and in IVIarch following took it to the top of the moun-
tain and erected a house, twenty-four by twenty-eight feet, three
rods north-east of the one previously built. There were two
rooms on the south side of the building that were plastered and
papered. It was completed and opened on the 5th of Septem-'
ber, 1822. Mr. Pease occupied the house he erected that and
the following year, for the sale of refreshments, when he sold,

EL.

^?.(^f•^■^ :VIOUNT HOLYOKE.

ilV:

225

sgiving
ikI bar-
hauled
moun-
t, three
(re two
eel a»<3
eptern-'
lat and
le sold,

February 21st, 1824, to Joel W. Smith, of Iladley, for $600.
The original house was kept till that time by Mr. Smith and
Samuel W. Lyman, son of Zadok Lyman, and they were the
first ones to make a foot-path up the mountain on the west side. •
Mrc Smith moved the house built bv Mr. Pease close to the one
previously occupied by himself and Mr Lyman, but in conse-
quence of the insecurity of the foundation it finally fell down.
February 29th, 1826, Mr. Smith sold to Isaac C. Bates, Thomas
Shepherd, Isaac Damon, of Nor hampton, and Joseph Strong,
of vSouth Hadley, for $1,500. November 1st, 1828, Thomas
Shepherd sold his fourth to WilUam Swan, and in consequeuce
of financial difficulties, Isaac Damon's interest passed into the
hands of Eliphalet AVilliams, J. D. Whitney, and Lewis Strong,
on the 10th of the same month. On the 9th of [May, 1832,
Daniel Stebbins purchased the fourth held by ]Mr. Williams,
Mr. Whitney and Mr. Strong. August 4th, 1836, William
Swan sold the fourth held by him to Daniel Stebbins, and on
the 15th of the following November, Thomas Shepherd sold his
interest to Daniel Stebbins. After the death of Isaac C. Bates,
his widow, on the 17th of September, 1847, sold the fourth pur-
chased by her husband to Daniel Stebbins. The origiiml nine
acres purchased by Willis Pease were now owned by Dr. Steb-
bins, who kept it till 1849, when it passed into the hands of
John W. French and William P. Cooper.

A BOOK-BINDER AND PRINTER ENGAGE IN THE "nOTEL**

BUSINESS.

That some one would ultimately build a house as a permanent
establishment for the entertainment and accommodation of pleas-
ure-seekers, was an idea long entertained by Mr. French ; but
that he should become the proprietor of it was not contemplated
by him, and the ownership of it is the result of unforeseen and
accidental eir«umstances. For some time he had been at work
ftt his usual vocation — book-binding — in the eastern part of tho

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226

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

8IM

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state; but returning home in the spring of 1849, out of employ-
ment, in company with Mr. Cooper, a printer friend, the two
happened to meet Dr. Stebbins in the street in Northampton.
The Doctor, who had always taken much interest in the view
from Mount Holyoke and the prosperity of the Mountain House,
proposed to Mr. French that he should hire it. It appearing
to be a feasible project, Mr. French declared his willingness to
accede to Dr. Stebbins' request ; but Mr. Cooper was adverse to
the enterprise. He was, however, induced to visit the moun-
tain, having never been there. "When about half way up the
mountain he was blindfolded and led to the summit by Mr.
French. The summit reached, the covering was removed from
his eyes, and such a prospect Avas there spread before him as he
had httle thought of. He was so pleased that he consented to
enter into a business partnership with Mr. French, and they
immediately made arrangements to occupy the premises. They
found the house in a dilapidated condition, and then in posses-
sion of David Morse, who had leased it. His "refreshments"
consisted of dried herrings, crackers, cigars, lemons, water, and
a " toddy-stick." His stock in trade was purchased for ten dol-
lars, and in about two weeks, after visiting the eastern part of
the state, they returned and commenced to repair the house.

A NEW ROAD OPENED AND THE OLD ONE IMPROVED.

The road, which had only been a rough foot-path, was made
wider and greatly improved, rendering the summit much easier
of access. The number of visitors to the mountain rapidly in-
creased, in consequence of the improved facilities for getting to
and from it, and as there was no open road, except that ov<'r
private land, the county commirsiouers were petitioned to lay
out a public highway from Hockanum to within one-eighth of
a mile or more of the summit. A bitter contest ensued, and a
writer in one of. the papers said that a certain portion of the
opponents could see no use in any road, except that which was
made to cart broom-corn and tobacco over. The cominissionei*s,

TIT

MOUNT HOLYOKE.

227

however, viewed the road and located it, and in 1850 it was
built. A somewhat laughable incident occurred at the time the
commissioners viewed the locality. An opponent, who was with
the commissioners, set forth his reasons for not having the road
located; and among others, said that the mountain was some-
times visited on Sunday, and the road ought not to be built.
One of the commissioners turned to Deacon Cumming:^, of
Ware, who was one of the commissioners at that time, and said,
" Deacon, I am of the s^me opinion too. Therc's the town of
Holyoke ; it's a terrible wicked place, and I think all the roads
leading to it ought to be discontinued." The deacon smiled
complacently and proceeded with the work, while the aforesaid
opponent thereafter held his peace.

5. ,.r-.» = "-^

;!..4,.. ,

THE PROSPECT HOUSE. — THE OLD RAILWAY.

228

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

On the summit of Mount Holyoke is a. large and commodious
hotel, 55 by 70 feet, known as the Prospect House, arranged
with special reference. to viewing the scenery around the moun-
tain. Its history is told in the following paragraph: ' ' '

Mr. Cooper sold his interest to Mr. f'rench in the early part
of 1851, and on the 25th of the following February, Edward
H. Graves, of Northampton, son of Elisha Graves, became a
joint owner with IVIr. French. The old house being insufficient
to meet the wants of visitors, it was decided to build a new one.
The necessary lumber was provided, and on the 2 2d day of
May, 1851, the frame was erected. Its size was 25 by 30 feet,
two stories high, with an observatory in the center. It was lo-
cated just north of the old one, which stood till June 5th, when
it was demolished. The new house was completed and dedicated
July 5th, and has since been known as the Prospect House.

The demand for sleeping accommodations and for permanent
board during the summer season rendered it necessary to en-
large the Prospect House to meet the demand of pleasure-seek-
ers, and in 1861 an addition, two stories high, was constructed,
making the present size of the house 55 by 70 feet. There are
sleeping accommodations for 20 or 30 person?, besides a hall in
the second story, 20 by 55, that is well adapted for cotillion
parties or prospect purposes. The first floor, which is occupied
mainly as a prospect room, is remarkably pleasant, and well
suited to the wants of visitors.

THE SEVERAL PROPRIETORS OP THE OLD MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

Among those who have sold refreshments on the mountain
previous to Mr. French, in the original house, are, Willis Pease,
Samuel W. Lyman, Joel W. Smith, Paul Strong, Alonzo Day,
Almon Lyman, a Mr. Preston, Henry W. Prior, Thomas E.
Elliott and David Morse. Paul Strong kept the house seven
years. In an advertisement, dated Northampton, May 1, 1839,
Henry W. Prior said : " A new and convenient avenue to the

.7AWJ1AJI a.iQ 3HT---«a8Uon Toa'^aosn »"i*

,S«ir'_! MOUNT HOLTOKE.'-" O 3)rr

229

summit of Mount Holyoke will be opened this season, com-
mencing near the housf of Loren Pease, north of Mr. Lyman's
hotel, in Hockanum. The subscriber yrill be in attendance
from Monday morning till Saturday night, with such refresh,
ments and personal attention as he hopes may be acceptable to
the wants of the public. No contraband articles will be kept,
and the house will be closed on the Sabbath."

A NEW SYSTEM ADOPTED.

Previous to 1853, it had been customary with those who
kept the house, to charge a stipulated " sum for the water that
visitors drank, as it had to be earned to the top of the moun-
tain by hand, and for refreshments, what would be exorbitant
prices in other places. At the suggestion of those who were
experienced, the proprietor concluded to furnish visitors gra-
tuitously with all the water they wished, and give them the
conveniences of the house, for which he would receive an ad-
mission fee ; at the same time selling refreshments at prices
usual in all public houses. This plan has produced good re-
sults in several ways. In the first place it has excluded that
class who used to visit the mountain for no other purpose than
to have a " spree," while the visitor does not now feel under
the necessity of gorging himself with " refreshments " for the
sake of compensating the proprietor of the house for the trou'
ble he may make him. The fir^ t visitor to the Prospect Housej
after the new system was established, was Rev. E. Y. Swift,
then of South Hadley. . '

THE STAIR CASE AND Ri 'WAT. •

The rough and narrow foot-path, together with the steepness
of the ascent, had deterred many, especially elderly people and
invalids, from visiting the summit of the mountain. This diffi-
fulty, however, was in a measure obviated by the construction
of a narrow and somewhat circuitous road from the old carriage

; t

fff, ,.

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1 ■ ^^■■■'"

230

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

road to the summit. A small horse cart and a Canadian pony
were used for some time to convey to the top > f the mountain,
from the barn, or half-way house, such visitors as were unable
to walk. But the great expense attending the repair of the
road, and the increased travel, induced the proprietor to abandon
the road and construct a stair case and railway to the summit,
which were commenced and finished in 1854. The stair case
contained 491 steps. To draw the car to the top of the moun-
tain, a stationary horse-power at the sumn, was used till 1856,
when a steam engine, procured for the purpose, was substituted,
and found to work to greater satisfaction.

Mr. Graves and Mr. French continued together in the busi-
ness till Feb. 5, 1856, when they dissolved partnership and Mr.
French purchased Mr. Graves' interest. Since that time the
property has remained in the hands of the present proprietor,
who has done much to make Mount Holyoke a pleasant place
of resort for tourists and the lovers of nature.

In 1857 a new road going north from the mountain, leading
to Hadley, was opened, but it is not now used, another and
more direct road having been opened to the river.

In 1860, a new and improved railway, 600 feet long, with
double track, was built north of the old one and directly in front
of the Prospect House. The old track was then given up to
the use of foot passengers.

Mr. French, having purchased land and opened an avenue to
the river in front of the Prospect House, a new covered railway
and stair case was built in 1866 from the summit to the bai-n
below, to connect with the horse railway to the river.

•
! !

1U|

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lit

THE NEW TELESCOPE.

In 1866 a new and powerful telescope, made by J. B. Allen,
of Springfield, was purchased for the house, and many objects
that could not be seen with ordinary glasses previously used,,
are now discemable, which adds much to the interest of visitoi- .

MOUNT HOLYOKE.

231

WHERE THE WATER COMES FROM.

As there are no springs near the top of the mountain, the
water used for drinking and cooking purposes has to be carried
in kegs from the foot of the railway, 365 feet below the summit,
to the Prospect House. Before the railway was constructed
visitors were charged from three to five cents a glass for water,
but tho improved facilities afforded by the railway not only
enables the proprietor to furnish water free, but to add to it,
that desirable luxury in a warm day — ice. The spring water
is remarkable for its purity and coldness, and there are but few
springs in this region equal to it.

THE NEW BARN.

A new and commodious barn, 36 by 80 feet, was erected
during the latter part of 1861, and is well adapted to the pur-
pose for which it was built. It has been fitted up with stalls
for the safe keeping of the horses of those who visit the moun-
tain. i(d^

"' A PERMANENT RESIDENCE ON THE MOUNTAIN.

Previous to the time when Mr. French took possession of
the mountain house, it had not been customary for the one who
kept it to remain on the mountain over night, as the accommo-
dations for that purpose were insufficient. Since the Prospect
House was built, in 1851, Mr. French and family have remain-
ed there during the summer and autumn, and for ten years they
resided on the summit the year round, and any one who has
not, can form but a faint idea of the many beautiful scenes that
have been witnessed, caused by the changes of season and the
weather. Violent storms, terrific peals of thunder, vivid light-
ning, beautiful sun-sets, fogs, and rainbows ; the glittering
crystallizations of winter, the deep green foliage of mid-sum-
mer, and the golden tinted forest of autumn, have all formed
scenes in which poet and artist wouId*find abundant themes for
song and picture.

232

THE CONNECTICUT VALLET GUIDE.

i ; -^

THE MOUNTAIN GROVK.

Tlie Grove, a short distance north-east of the Prospect House,
where seats and tables have been provided for pic-nic parties,
is a charming spot, and has become a popular place of resort
for those who wish to enjoy out door aniur-ements. It is only a
few rods from the House, much secluded, while at the same
tim<j a beautiful view is obtained of the river, and old Hadley,
with its broad streets, and waving elms. -^nfitTo 'nil «i{^tt;»;i^

f THE MEADOWS.

~-uui tad lyi: .
The meadows which are so extensive on the West and North

of the Mountain, remind the visitor of the Prairies of the
West. It is supposed that the Valley was once a vast lake, and
i '^ doubtful whether it was ever covered with forest trees.
At the time of the purchase from the Indians, more than two
hundred years ago, there were large patches of land that were
free from trees, which the Indians used for cultivation, and were
then called "meadows." In 1G53, Nonotuck, a territory west
of the Connecticut River, embracing the present towns of North-
ampton, Easthampton, Southampton, Westhampton, and part of
Hatfield and Montgomery, was purchased of the Indians, for
which was paid one hundred fathom of Wampum, (strings of
beads, made of shells,) ten coats, some small gifts, and plowing
up sixteen acres of land on the east side of the Quonnecticut
River the ensuing summer." There are about 8000 acres in
the Northampton Meadows, including Ox-Bow Island.

"4te

'***" THE OX-BOW.

3 serpentine course of the Connecticut river, forms a very
attractive feature of the view from the mountain ; but one of
the greatest objects of interest is the old Ox-Bow, which re-
ceives its name fi'om the peculiar course of the river, a mile
below Hockanum Ferry. Jt formerly ran more westerly around

i i;

MOUNT nOLYOKE. '- ^''

233

a narrow strip of land, coming back directly opposite the place
where the angle was made, and thence southerly, between
Mounts Holyoke and Tom. The distance across the neck,
from bank to bank, was only thirty rods, while the river in
making the circuit, ran three and a half miles. The boatmen
on the river had frequently endeavored to get permission to '
cut a channel through and change the course of the river ; but
the owners objected, as it would greatly discommode ♦hem.
High water, however, accomplished what the boatmen failed to
secure. On the 24th of February, 1840, the ice broke up and
gorged in the river at the end of the "Bow," which caused the
water to set back. It continued to rise till it run over the
"neck." A few furrows had been plowed on the "neck" during
the previous autumn, and as the frost was out of the ground a
channel was soon cut through to the river below. A large
number of acres were washed away, and the whole course of
the river was changed. This made an island of the Ox-Bow,
and it so remained till it was connected to the main land by the
railroad embankment. There are 400 acres in Ox-Bow Island,
as it is now called, although viewing it from the mountain with
the naked eye, it does not have the appearance of containing
upward of 100. Before the new channel was formed the Ox-
Bow Meadows were within the limits of the town of Hadley,
but by an act of the Legislature it became part of Northampton,

SHEPHERD S ISLAND.

In the Connecticut River, northerly from the Prospect House,
is a beautiful island covered with green grass, known to the old
inhabitants as Shepherd's Island; but its peculiar shape, with
the beautiful elm in the center, suggests to the mind of the vis-
itor Captain Ericsson's famous Monitor, which so successfully
fought the rebel ram, Merrimac. Strangers will be surj)rised
to learn that there are twenty acres of the best of land on the
island. It is never cultivated, but kept covered with grass to

234

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

i'5

. \< •?!

5i . li .■■I

11^

prevent it being washed away in freshet times. It is owned by
L. N. Granger, of North Hadley. The large elm in the center
of the island measures sixteen lieet in circumference.

THE BIG ELM.

Half a mile west of the Hockanum Ferry is the Big Elm
tliat Oliver Wendell Holmes alludes to in his "Autocrat oi' the
Breakfast Table." It is thirty-one feet in circumference, and is
one of the largest trees in New England. It is frequently vis-
ited by strangers, and can be seen from the Prospect House.

A NIGHT VIEW OF THE VALLEY.

It is thought by many that the view from the mountain by
daylight is unsurpassed, but that obtained at night is, in some
respects, much more beautiful. As the sun sinks behind the
western hills and night comes softly on, the distant objects fade
slowly from sight till nothing but the dim outline of the winding
river remains, stretching far away, up and down the valley, like
a silvery cord. The stillness of the night is only broken by the
gentle rustling of the wind through the tree-tops and the plain-
tive notes of the whippowil as they come up from the valley
below. In the morning, at the first approach of day, the visitor
is awakened by the sweet music of the many birds that remain
undisturbed in their native wilds.

THE GREAT FRESHET IN 18G2.

The great freshet in the Connecticut valley, which reached
its high'^st point on Sunday, April 20th — two feet higher at
Northam^jton than any freshet since the settlement of the town
— presented a beautiful appearance from Mount Holyoke. The
Ox-Bow Island meadows, south and north Meadows in North-
ampton, and the Hadley meadows, were covered with water.
It is estimated that nearly 10,000 acres were completely sub-
merged. At the bridge over the Connecticut, between Hadley

MOUNT HOLTOKE.

235

1 I

and Northampton, tlie vrater was within three or four feet of
the floor-planks, and was much visited by Northampton people,
where a good view of the vast body of water was obtained.

WHAT EVERY VISITOU DESIRES TO KNOW.

Distance from the Prospect House to

Northampton, - - -

Springfield, - - •

Worcester, - - '■ - -

Boston, - - - -

Albany, - - - -

** Hartford, - . -

New Haven, - - '" ' • * •

New York, - - -

Greenfield, - - - -

Brattleboro, - - -

Bellows Falls, -

White River Junction,
Perpendicular elevation of Mount Holyoke, 1,000 feet.
Carriage road from base to feeding-stable, f of a mile.
Railway from stable to summit, 600 feet.
Perpendicular ascent from stable, 365 feet.
First house built in 1821. ; >. ♦ ■ ,

Second house built in 1851. , . . ,.. .. -

Enlarged to present size in 1861. •'^

First railway in 1854.
Second railway in 1860.
Present track laid in 1866.

Number of passengers carried over its track to 1866, 1 25^,000.
Number of acres in Ox-Bow Island, 400.
Number of acres in Shepherd li>land, 20.
Number of acres in Northampton Meadows, 8,000.
( Number of acres in Hadley Meadows, 2,700.
Number of trees in West S ei, Hadley, 811.
Length of West Street, Hau.ey, one mile.

3 miles.

((

120

((

122

158

((

109

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' J-,

JAY PE AK. '-.-• .rf(.TrM^.

Fourteen miles west of Newport, at the head of Lake Mem-
phremagog, is Jay Peak. It is 4,018 feet in height, and from
its summit is a magnificent view, said to be one of the finest in
New England. From it can be seen Lake Champlain, the
Adirondacks in Northern New York, St. Lawrence River,
Montreal, Lakes Memphremagog and Willoughby, the "White
Mountains, &c., while the valley of Champlain and the country
lying near, makes a beautiful and pleasing scene. A good
carriage road leads from Newport to the. cabin near the summit,

Mr. H. W. Baker, the mountain pioneer, has erected a
spacious log cabin on the mountain, just below the summit,
where 'guests are provided for. His " latch string" is always
out, and as the streams abound with trout, old fishermen find
this a pleasant stopping place. .»^.,^ ^^ «,.*►

":' ..*.'• C' A

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THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. . mS' ..L

A PRELIMINARY VIEW.

V ,.,,j

'<■'■ ^?C'

On the northern boundary of New Hampshire are the moat
elevated mountain summits of New England, the rocky bold-
ness and grandeur of which justly entitle that region to the
appellation of " the Switzerland of America." The lofty peaks,
the deep and narrow passes, and sublime scenery, touches the
poetic nature of man, and he wonders at the mighty power that
has shaped such vastness and beauty. The fame of the White
Mountains is almost world-wide, although hardly a half century
has passed since . they were looked upon only by neighboring
primitive settlers, or the more daring lover of the sublime in
nature. A period of about thirty years will cover the time
since the Mountains were first visited by any considerable
number. Small the number at first, the tide of sight-seekers
has gradually increased, until now not less than ten thousand
people annually visit all or some portions of the various moun-
tains. [Y J!>rii»J

Darby Field of Pascataquack, accompanied by two Indians,
ascended the highest peak of the White Mountains, in 1642,
but the first mention of the mountains in print did not occur
until 1672. The first rude public house for occasional visitors
was erected upon the Giant's Grave, in 1803, by Eleazer
Rosebrook, five mfles west of the present Crawford House. In
1819 Abel Crawford and his son Ethan Allen Crawford were

28?

THE CONNECTICUUT VALLEY GUIDE.

the first to clear a path through the woods to the rocky ridge,
and in 1840 Abel Crawford, at the age of 75, rode the first
horse that climbed the cone of Mt. Washington. The first
house on that mouutain was built by his son Ethan.

No conception of the grandeur of the view from the summit
of Mt. Washington can be formed without a visit to the moun-
tain itself. The most faithful description when placed upoa
paper is spiritless in comparison with the mighty scene spread
before you from an altitude of more than six thousand feet !
While the tide of travel to this wonderful land is increasing year
by year, there are thousands who have no realizing sense o^
the pleasure that they are depriving themselves of by remain-
ing at home — toiling, perhaps, day after day in the never ceas-
ing round of business, that a little more may be hoarded for a
coming generation to squander. Oh ! you man of toil ! what
will it profit you to wear your very life out in acquiring mere
wealth while the finer instincts of your nature are blotted out
or allowed to run to waste? The White Hills should be
cherished by us all as the Mecca of America, to which it should
be a religious duty to make at least one pilgrimage in our life
time 1 1

• •..f

HOW TO REACH THE MOUNTAINS.

There are four routes to the White Mountains, but for
tourists coming from New York and points farther south the
nearest and most interesting is that through the Connecticut
Valley. This is more than seventy miles shorter than any other.
Many who have never visited the mountains and whose atten-
tion has not previously been called to them, set out to make
their first trip with very little knowledge concerning them. To
fiuch a few words of explanation will not come amiss.

Littleton is the nearest point on the west side of the moun-
*ain8 that tourists can go to by railroad. From thai place six-
horse coaches are run in connection with all the trains to the

THB WHITE MO»;NTAIICfl.

239

Profile and Crawford Houses. The former is situated 12 miles
iicm Littleton in the Frenconia Mountains, and the latter £2
miles distant, at the western entrance of the "White Mountain
Notch. In the vicinity of the Profile House are the Old Man
of the Mountain, the Poole, the Flume, and various other
points of interest. In the vicinity of the Crawford House are
the "White Mountain Kotch, the "Willey House, Mount "Willard)
Aromonoosuc J'alls,the railroad to the summit of Mount "Wash-
ington, &c. The bridle path to the summit of Mt. "Washing-
ton commences near the Crawford House. The Glen House
is on the cast side of Mt. "Washington, 8 miles from Gorham
and the Grand Trunk Railroad. The carriage road to the
summit of Mt. Washington commences at the Glen House.

In purchasing tickets for the mountains the tourist should
call for one to the Profile House, if he wishes to go to that
place first. If he goes to the Crawford House call for one to
the White Mountains. •

The Mt. Washington Railway, which is now in process of con-
struction, is about 8 miles north of the Crawford House, on
the west side of the mountain. A large hotel is to be erected
near the Giant's Grave, (at the old Fabyan stand,) a few miles
from the railway. "With these brief explanations the reader is
introduced to the details of the various routes :

ROUTE FIRST.

From New York by cars to New Haven, Hartford, Spring-
field, Northampton, Greenfield, Brattleboro, Bellows Falls,
Windsor, White River Junction, Wells River and Littleton.
Thence by stage direct to the Crawford House, 22 miles, or 12
miles to Profile House in the Franconia Mountains and thence
to Crawford House, 27 miles. The tourist leaving New York
by the 8 A. M. Morning Express can stop at any point between
Springfield and Bellows Falls over night, and proceed to the
White Mountain region the next day, arriving there in the

240

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEr GUIDE.

evening, — the Profile House at 7^, and the Crawford House at
10^. Distance from New York to Crawford House, 324 miles,
to Profile House, 314 miles. , *?

-■itS^*"^'

ROUTE SECOND.

..#i»^ i'^

■" From New York to New London by steamer, and thence by
cars to Worcester, Nashua, Manchester, Concord and Weirs,
on Lake Winnipisseogee. From this point the tourist can
continue by cars through Plymouth and Wells River to Little-
ton, and thence by stage to the Crawford or Profile House ; or
he can take the steamer 10 miles across the Lake to Center
Harbor, and the<ice by stage 30 miles to Profile House through
the Pemigewasset valley ; or 35 miles to North Conway and
thence 28 miles to Crawford House, through the*Saco valley.
By this route the tourist leaves New York in the afternoon, and,
by traveling all night, reaches the White Mountains in the
evf ing of the next day, providing he goes by cars to Littleton.
If he goes by steamer to Center Harbor and thence by stage
via North Conway to the Crawford House, he reaches there on
the evening of the third day, having remained one night at
North Conway. Distance from New York to Crawford House
via New London, Nashua and Wells River, 424 miles ; to
Profile House, 414. To Crawford House via Weirs, Center
Harbor and North Conway, 395 ; to Profile House via Plym-
outh and Pemigewasset valley, 370.

ROUTE THIRD.

From New York to Boston, either by steamboat or railroad ;
from Boston to Weirs and Plymouth, and thence continue to
Littleton by railroad, or by steamer to Center Harbor from
Weirs, and thence by stage to North Conway and Crawford
House; or by stage from Plymouth to Profile House. Dist-
ance from New York by railroad to Boston, Concord, Wells
River and Littleton to Profile House, 432 miles ; to Crawford

THE WHITE MOUNTAINS — LITTLETON.

241

House, 442 miles ; by stage from Plymouth to Profile House,
388 miles ; by steamboat and stage from Weirs to Crawford
House, 413 miles. ... - . ,

ROUTE FOURTH.

From New York via Boston, Portland and Gorham to
Glen House. Distance, 441 miles. The Glen House is on the
East side of the White Mountains, and by this route there is
only eight miles of stage travel before reaching the mountains
— from Gorham to the Glen. To reach the Crawford House
the tourist must either take the stage around the mountains or
ascend Mt. Washington by the carriage road to the Tip Top
House, and thence by ponies down the mountain to the Craw-
ford House. Distance from Glen to Crawford House, over Mt.
Washington, 17 miles, around it by stage, 36 miles.

LITTLETON — ENTRANCE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIN REGION.

Having come through the Connecticut valley and enjoyed its
delightful scenery, the tourist changes cars at Wells River and
enters the valley of the Ammonoosuc, a stream which finds its
source in the deep ravines of the White Mountains. A ride
of twenty miles along the banks of the river and through small
villages brings you to Littleton, a village of considerable trade
and enterprise, where, from the neighboring bights, can be seen
the distant summit of Mt. Washington. The village is situated
principally on the north bank of the Ammonoosuc, and the
river itself furnishes power for the various mills which give
employment to the inhabitants. North of the village and upon
a commanding spot is the building now being erected by the
town at a cost of $25,000 for the graded schools.

THAYER's HOTEL.

The tourist has the choice of proceeding immediately by
Btage, on the artlval of the cars, to the Profile House in the
11

242

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Franconia Notch, or to the Crawford House at the White
Mountain Notch, or remain over night at Littleton. If he
remains he will find good meals and good rooms and a genial
host at Thayer's Hotel. It is kept by Mr. H. L. Thayer, a
veteran in the business and, withal, a gentleman. Summer
guests find this an agreeable stopping place. Horses and car-
riages ar.e furnished to those who desire them. The rides
about Littleton are delightful, and a considerable number remain
here during the summer.

"Hi

•.!Y,»

k i.

FROM LITTLETON TO THE CRAWPOHD HOtTSE.

If the tourist proceeds to the Crawford House, which is 22
miles distant, immediately on his arrival at Littleton, and has
come by the afternoon train, he will take supper at Sinclair's
Hotel at Bethlehem, five miles from Littleton. Soon after
leaving Littleton the various peaks of the White Mountains
are first seen and are constantly in view until the darkness of
night limits the vision. The ride is a pleasant one though
taken at a late hour. The tourist will reach the Crawford
House between ten and eleven o'clock. , „ , .

PROM LITTLETON TO THE PROFILE HOUSE.

The six horse coaches will be in readiness on the arrival of
the train at Littleton to convey the tourist to the Profile House,
12 miles distant. On leaving the village a southerly route i»
pursued and shortly you commence to ascend high table land.
Within half an hour and after the ascent is made, you behold
on your left the lofty White Mountain range, Mt. Washington
standing sentinel over all the rest. Ahead of you is Mt. La-
fayette, its deep furrowed aides in full view. Descending
slowly you enter the village of Franconia, the name of which
has become familiar to you if you have been an observer of the
.telegraphic weather reports 'n winter. This is one of the
coldest places in the mounta'.ns and the thermometer sometimes

■np

ENTRANCE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAIN BEGION.

243

registers in winter as low as 34 degrees below zero. The
south branch of the Ammonoosuc, which rises in the Franconia
JMountains, passes through the village. As you leave the valley
of the Ammonoosuc and commence the mountain ascent the
sun is nearing the western horizon. The golden shadows upon
the darlt forest trees which skirt the mountain side are singu-
larly beautiful. Such a sunset as is sometimes witnessed here
is rarely seen elsewhere. The long lines of light and shade
give that brilliant coloring of purple and gold which is seen in
perfection only in a Northern clime.

Soon after leaving Franconia a " slide," a long white line,
will be noticed on the side of Mt. Lafayette extending down-
ward. This is just to the right of the Profile House, and
seems only a short distance to it ; but an hour will be consumed
before the hotel is reached. Slowly the coach ascends to the
Notch, passing Bald Mountain on your left. As you reach
the summit and commence to descend into the Notch the base
o^ Mt. Lafayette and its great wall of green impresses you
with its vastness and grandeur, fn a few minutes you reach
the border of Echo Lake, a clear and beautiful sheet, a half
mile north of the Profile House. A few minutes later the
coach is stopped in front of the hotel itself, as the evening twi-
light begins to deepen. ,M. », t. ii,/. i, I .. <>.i » •

i»k» vj't'jvaviin '•

THE PROFILE HOUSE.

. fK,*!^ -J I

i*'i 'Say

OsfSOTS OP 1nt«rest.— The "Old Man of the Mountain)" 100 rods south of the hotel
— seen to best advantage early in the morning, or late in the afternoon ; Echo Lake,
half mile north ; Mount Cannon — foot-path in rear of the hotel, one and a half miles
to summit ; Bald Mountain, 2 miles north ; Mount Lafayette, carriage road north to
base two miles, and bridle path to sunmiit three and a half miles ; Basin, 4 miles ;
Flume, 6 mlics ; Pool, five and a half miles. The Basin, Pool and Flume can be ,
Tisifcod by taking the carriages from th£ hotel, at 8:30 a. m. and 3 p. m.

A welcome sight indeed is the Profile House to the weary
traveler, as it greets his vision at the twiligiithour. Fatigued by
an all -day *s ride he leaves the coach and enters this magnificent /

iiir'

244

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

hotel, surprised at its extent and the strange wildness of the
scene around it. Having satisfied the wants of an appetite
that had been sharpened by the ride, he strolls down the car-
riage road, which is overshadowed by the dark walls above.
All nature seems hushed in repose, and naught but the sighing
of the wind in the tree tops far above disturbs his meditation.
How vast and how mighty seem the everlasting mountains,
whose summits are lost to him in the darkness of night !
Retracing his steps he enters the hotel and joins, perhaps, in
the merry-making in the parlor, where a gay and bewitching
scene presents itself. Merry voices mingle with sweet music
and joy seems unconfined. - - f v - / " ; > ', '

The Profile House stands upon the highest ground in the
Notch, and is nearly 2,000 feet above the sea. It is completely
shut in by the mountains which rise almost from its doors to a
great hight. Cannon Mountain on the West and Eagle Cliff on
the East. Such wildness and grandeur the tourist has seldom
if ever before seen, and he never tires in gazing upon the vari(fl:l
forms of beauty which on every hand fill his eye. The hotel,
which is a model of neatness and comfort, Is kept by Taft,
Tyler & Greenleaf, long known to mountain tourists. It has
several times been enlarged to meet the growing popularity of
the place, until it will now accommodate 450 guests. The
parlor is 84 by 50 feet, and 460 yards of carpeting are required
to cover its floor. A band of music is always in attendance for
the pleasure of guests, and dancing forms one of the attractions
of the place during the evening hours. There is a telegraph
office in the hotel, and the daily mails are received and made
up there, so that guests, though away from the lai j,^er places,
are not altogether outside of the comforts and luxuries of home.

Ponies and carriages are furnished on call at the office by
Mr. K. M, Bishop for those who desire them.

There are several objects of interest near the hotel that can

THE OLD MAN OP THE MOUNTAIN.

245

be reached on foot. First of all, and the great lion of the
Notch, is

THE " OLD MAN OF THE MOUNTAIN."

There is no single object of so much general interest around
the whole mountains, and thousands have looked upon the
Titanic features of The " Old Man " in wonder and astonish-
ment. If the tourist came by the evening coach he should rise
the next morning at an early hour and walk down the carriage
road towards the south a hundred rods from the hotel. Just
as he reaches the path leading to the boat house on Profile
Lake he should look upward, to the right, and there will greet his
vision the unmistakable outlines of the human face projecting
from the rugged side of Mt. Cannon, at leas 000 feet above
him. So perfect and so wonderful he feels a i.aill of half sur-
prise and half fear creep over him. He starts back and
exclaims, can it be possible that the great forces of nature by
mere chance have carved such an exact image of the human
features upon this great rocky mountain side ? Thousands have
been here to look upon this. Nature's greatest curiosity, and its
fame is told in many a song and legend. The incredulous,
however, before looking upon the " Great Stone Face," fancy
it must require a wide stretch of imagination to witness that
which is claimed, but a single glance sweeps away all unbelief.
The profile is made up of three separate masses of rock seme
distance apart, and the whole length from forehead to chin is
80 feet. One piece forms the forehead, another the upper lip,
and the third the chin. Passing farther down the road until
coming in front the profile is entirely t to view. The most
favorable time for seeing it is eith 'ore the sun shines upon

it, or late in the afternoon, a^'^er it has passed behind Mt.
Cannon.

246

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

''til ''ti^ ').<;.■ iU'r,

I Vi ; I J V

>«»''jL'n

PROFILE LAKE.

While here upon the banks of this small, but beautiful lake,
the tourist will notice something of its loveliness. It is here
that the Pemigewasset takes its rise. Starr King in describing
it very properly remarks : " How much joy it has fed in human
hearts ! Something of its bounty expended upon the infant
Pemigewasset is borne down into the Merrimack and con-
tributes to the power that moves the wheels of Nashua and
Lowell, and supplies a thousand operatives with bread." The
lake is filled with the best of trout and affords sport for old
fishermen. . . . :. . n^i,,.^ k.^^,,; u>,,:

.tar

::\ti>» ■ti\ JH.,:

ECHO LAKE.

iv.

A half mile north of the Profile House, and a fitting com-
panion of Profile Lake, is another beautiful sheet of water —
Echo Lake. It is a quiet and beautiful spot and a ride upon
its placid bosom is indeed refreshing after the fatigue of an all-
day ramble upon the adjacent mountains. But its great charm
is in the wonderful echoes that reverberate among the mountain-
fastnesses, on loud shouting, blowing of a horn, or firing of a
cannon.

BALD MOUNTAIN.

Two miles north of the Profile House is Bald Mountain. A
carriage road has been constructed to its summit and is now
eisy of access. From it is a fine view of the Ammonoosuc
valley to the north, and to the south you look down upon
Echo Lake and the Notch, while beyond rises Mt. Lafayette.
Carriages run regularly from the hotel to the summit.

EAGLE CLIFF.

On the east side of the road leading through the Notch,
opposite the Profile House and completely overshadowing it, is

CANNON MOUNTAIN — MT. LAFAYETTE,

247

Eagle Cliff. It rises 1,200 feet perpendicularly and its peculiar
formation makes it an object of interest to all. It derives its
name from the fact that some years since a pair of eagles
selected this for a home and there reared their young.

f ><

•vj ".•!'

CANNON MOUNTAIN.

In rear and west of the Profile House, rising to the hight
of 1,500 feet above the Notch, is Cannon Mountain. It re-
ceived its name from a rock upon the summit resembling a
cannon, which can be seen from the grounds in front of the
hotel. A foot-path to the summit from the hotel renders it
comparatively easy of access. The view down the valley of
the Pemigewasset is beautiful and well repays the effort reces-
sary to reach the summit. The view in other respects is fine,
but not equal to that obtained from more elevated positions.

i/(s7

MT. LAFAYETTE.

Having visited the objects of general interest in the immedi-
ate vicinity of the Profile House, the tourist will now prepare
to ascend Mt. Lafayette, which is 5,000 feet in hight, the view
from which is hardly inferior and in some respects surpasses
that from Mt. Washington. The distance to the summit from
the hotel is five and a half miles. Careful guides and good
ponies can be engaged at the hotel. On setting out for the trip
you proceed down the road past the Old Man of the Mountain,
and for two miles follow the Pemigewasset. Coming to the
old stand of the Lafayette House, which was burnt some years
since, you turn to the left and enter the forest. Winding
through it you finally come out upon the bare rock from which
you overlook the Profile House, down in the deep narrow glen.
Further north is the valley of the Ammonoosuc. South, for
twenty miles, you have full view of the lovely valley of the
Pemigewasset and the river itself. After enjoying the view
and resting your pony a few minutes you continue the ascent.

248

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Finally coming out of the woods altogether the bare and still dist-
ant peak of Lafayette lies bef'^' vou. The summit seems so far
above you wonder how it is j reached. Plodding on, zig-

zagging to right and left, th- f" is finally gained. Such
grandeur as is spread before } ore than repays the toil

necessary to reach the summit. L( mountain peaks without
number lie before you on every han^ West, in the hazy dist-
ance, is the Green Mountain range- it. Mansfield, Camel's
Hump and Jay Peak towering above their neighbors. Inter-
vening are the valleys of the Ammonoosuc and Connecticut.
North is the glorious and grand old peak, M$. Washington —
the Tip Top House, if not cloud-covered, in fall view. Lying
between are the summits of smaller mountains, while a track-
less widerness stretches far away towards the ';ast, where peak
upon peak rises skyward. A little to the left i& old Kearsearge,
and to the right the sharp spur of Chocorua seems to pierce
the very sky. South you look down upon the lovely valley of
the Pemigew asset which has seemingly widened into broad
meadows, and forty miles distant the eye rests upon Plymouth
and the beautiful Lake Winnipiseogee, with its innumerable
islands. You linger long in contemplating the scene, and
wonder how it is possible that so much sublimity should remain
so comparatively unknown to the great world of humanity
within a day's ride, and yet so accessible.

The summit of Mt. Lafayette is void of vegetation, and
formerly a rude house stood upon it for the protection of
visitors. Time and the elements, however, have destroyed it.
Ready to return you look carefully to your saddle girths and
Bet out for the hotel, where you arrive in season for dinner,
having accomplished the whole trip in five hours.

DOWN THE PEMIGEWASSET.

Having rested from the fatigue occasioned by the ascent of
ML Lafayette, the tourist is prepared to take a trip down the

THE PEMIGEWASSET.

249

Pemigewasset to see some of the objects of interest that are
found along this impetuous little stream, among which are the
Basin, the Pool, the Flume, and Walker's and Georgianna
Falls. The public carriages leave the hotel twice a day, at
8i A. M. and 3 P. M.

•»■<".

THE BASIN.

Four miles south of the Profile House, and on the west side
of the road, is the Basin. The Pemigewasset in its downward
course, flowing over a rocky ledge, has worn a complete basin
out of the solid granite, sixty feet in circumference and about
twenty feet in depth. In the outer edge, nearest the road, is a
peculiar formation of granite, worn by the water and resem-
bling the human foot and leg. _ . .

THE TOOL.

'.■\*T*-

Further south and about five and a half miles from the Pro-
file House, is the Pool. You leave the carriage road just
north of the old Flume House, and turn towards the east. A
walk of half a mile through the forest will bring you to the
Pool, which lies in the deep gorge between the mountains. The
Pool is about 40 feet deep and 150 in width, and the Pemige-
wasset, entering at the upper side, has worn this huge cavern
in the solid rock. Its grandeur is not so fully realized until
the tourist has passed down the rude stairway to the bottom,
where, on either hand, the rocky sides rise above him, while
the Pemigewasset itself rolls impetuously down from above
and thence out over the broken bed below. Here, too, in years
past has been found the "Philosopher," who is ready with his
boat to take you, for a small stipend, around the pool, and give
you his theory of its creation. Returning, you soon come to
the

OlA) FLUME HOUSE,

once a favorite place of resort, but now deserted. It is owned
11*

250

TUE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

by the proprietors of the Profile House, and was closed several
years since. From its piazzas are beautiful views of the moun-
tains and the valley below.

THE FLUME.

Like the "Old Man of the Mountains," the Flume is one of
the most important objects of interest, and no tourist should
fail to visit it. The carriage leaves the road leading down the
valley, just below the old Flume Mouse, and turns to the east.
It crosses the Pemigewasset and halts a short distance below
the Flume. "Leaving the wagon," says Starr King, "we
mount by a foot path that leads nearer and nearer to the sweet
melody that gives a promise to the ear, which is not to be
broken to the hope. Soon we reach the clean and sloping
granite floors, over which the water slips in thin, wide, even
sheets of crystal colorlessness. Above this, we meet those
gentle ripples over rougher ledges that are embossed with
green. Then, still higher up, where the rocks grow more un-
even, we are held by the profuse beauty of the hues shown up-
on the bright stones at the bottom of the little translucent
basins and pools. Still above, we come to the remarkable fis-
sure in the mountain, more than fifty feet high and several
hundred feet long, which narrows too, towards the upper end,
till it becomes only twelve feet wide, and which doubtless an
earthquake made for the passage of the stream which the visi-
tors are now to ascend. We go up, stepping from rock to
rock, now walking along a little plank pathway, now mounting
by some rude steps, here and there crossing from side to side
of the ravine by primitive little bridges, that bend under the
feet and that are railed by birch poles, and then climbing the
rocks again, while the spray breaks upon us from the dashing
and roaring streana, until we arrive at a little bridge which
spans the narrowest part of the ravirfe. How wild the spot is !
which shall we admire most, — the glee of the little torrent that

THE RETURN.

251

rushes beneath our feet, or the regularity and smoothness of
the frowning walls through which it goes foaming out into the
sunshine ; or the splendor of the dripping emerald mosses ; or
the trees that overhang their edges ; or the huge boulder, egg-
shaped, that is lodged between the walls just over the bridge
where we stand, — as unpleasant to look at, if the nerves are
irresolute, as the sword of Damocles, and yet held by a grasp
out of which it will not slip for centuries." • : - - r

Leaving the Flume and following the foot-path above, along
the northern side, you come to the rustic bridge which spans
the chasm over the boulder. Here can be had an excellent
view of the Flume from one end to the other. It is a pleasant
spot for meditation, and all nature around you seems in harmo-
ny. You are lost in wonderment over the cause which pro-
duced such a remarkable scene. Whence came the power that
rent these rocks asunder ? and how long has this great granite
boulder been suspended in its singular position ? .

......

THE RETURN.

The tourist has now seen the more important objects of in-
terest in the Franconia Notch, but if he has time he will find
pleasure in taking other rambles among the mountains. On
leaving the Flume and reaching the old Flume House, he can
proceed down the road for about two miles and then turn to the
right, follow up a little stream into the mountains where he
will come to Georgianna Falls, a series of beautiful cascades.
Or, he can retrace his steps and when within about three miles
of the Profile House, push into the woods to the right and
come to Walker's Falls, where theMttle mountain stream makes
a rapid descent over an irregularly rocky bed. ,;,.

FOR THE CRAWFORD HOUSE.

At 8^ A. M. the coach is in readiness for the Crawford
House, which is situated at the western entrance to the White

252

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Mountain Notch. You go back nearly to Franconia village by
the same route you reached the Profile House from Littleton,
and then turn to the right and proceed to

.'■') ■'■"'•. ' , -• ' ■ - ■■■'.,' • ' ■ '

BETHLEHEM.

At this place is the Sinclair Hotel, kept by E. R. Abbott,
formerly connected with the Pemigewasset House at Plymouth.
The scenery around Bethlehem is charming and beautiful. A
distinct view can be had of Mt. Washington and other peaks
farther to the north.

LOWER AMMONOOSUC FALLS.

Leaving Bethlehem, where the coach stops for a few minutes,
a ride of about two miles brings you to Ammonoosuc Bridge.
Here Capt. Rosebrook built a bridge in the early settlement of
Bethlehem. It was afterward carried away by high water, and,
in 1800, the town of Bethlehem voted to build another at a
cost of $390. Provisions were so scarce that year, that the
workmen were compelled to live on milk porridge while build-
ing it. ^ ^ . » T '/^ •• r

A short ride from this place brings you to Lower Ammo-
noosuc Falls, on the south side of the road. The Ammonoosuc
is one of ^he wildest rivers in the State, and it makes a fall of
about one mile in a distance of 30 miles, from the White Moun-
tains to the Connecticut. > ■ -. f;

WHITE MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

Within five mil^s of Crawford's you come to the White
Mountain House, kept by Lindsey and Abbott, situated within
full view of Mt. Washington. . ,

THE GIANTS GRAVE.

A half mile east of the White Mountain House you come
to the Giant'fl Grave, a peculiar earth formation, sixty feet in

THE GIANT S GRAVE.

253

hight, and from which there is a fine view of the valley and
the mountains. In 1803 was erected on Giant's Grave .he
first public house built in the mountain region for the accom-
modation of visitors. In 1819, Ethan Allen Crawford, who
lived at this place, marked and cleared a path, in connection
with his father, Abel Crawford, who was then living 8 miles
below the White Mountain Notch, to the side of Mt. Washing-
ton.

At the foot of Giant's Grave stood the old Fabyan House,
which was burnt several years since, and here is to be erected
a new Hotel, capable of accommodating 500 guests, by the pro-
prietors of the railway to the summit of Mt. Washington.

No less than three public houses have been burnt at thi?

place, while the meadows have been ravaged by freshets.

There is a tradition that an Indian maniac once stood on

Giant's Grav^, and carrying a blazing pitch-pine torch, which

he had kindled at a tree struck by lightnir ', shouted in the

storm the prophecy —

The Great Spirit whispered in my ear,
No pale-face shall take deep root here.

ARRIVAL AT CRAWFOiID's.

An hour's ride from the Giant's Grave takes the tourist to
the Crawford House. You are now in the heart of the White
Mountains, close to the entrance of the White Mountain Notch,
a sight of which alone is sufliciently interesting to well repay
the cost of the whole trip. From here you can go to the sum-
mit of Mt. Washington by ponies, or make the complete cir-
cuit of the mountains by stage. But before introducing you to
the wild scenery of this locality, we will give you some pre-
li'Tilnaries concerning the mountains themselves.

^. ; . WHO NAMED THE MOUNTAINS.

The several peal.s of the White Mountain range were named

254

THE CONNECTICUT VALLE? GUIDE.

by a party from Lancaster, N. H., in 1820. Starr King, in
his excellent book on the White Hills, who by the way, did
much in his life-time, to make the public familiar with the
beauty of the mountain region, very justly criticises the pro-
priety of naming the mountains after the public men of the
day. He says : " How absurd the order is ! Beginning at
'The Notch,' at the Crawford House, and passing around to
Gorham, there are the titles of the summits which are all seen
from the village of Lancaster : Webster, Clinton, Pleasant,
Franklin, Monroe, Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and
Madison. What a wretched jumble! These are what we
have taken in exchange for such Indian words as Agiochook,
which is the baptismal title of Mt. Washington, Ammomoosuc,
Moosehillock, Cantoocook, Pennocook and Pentucket. Think
of putting Mount Monroe, or Peabody River, or Berlin Falls,
or Israel's River, into poetry ! The White Mountains have
lost the privilege of being enshrined in such sonorous rythm and
Buch melody as Longfellow has given to the Indian names in
Hiawatha." . - . . ,

THE HIGHT OP THE DIFFERENT PEAKS.

Below is the hight, above the sea, of the several peaks of the
White Mountain range, of which Mt. Washington is the
highest: ^ . . ., ;

Mt. Washington, 6,285 ft.

« Clay, 5,400 «

« Jefferson, 5,700 "

«. Adams, 5,800 «

« MaJison, 5,400 «

Mt.

Webster,

4,000 ft.

Jackson,

4,100 «

Clinton,

4,200 «

Pleasant,,

4,800 «

Franklin,

4,900 «

Monroe,

5,400 «

■ ■'::.n

"l'

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE.

255

THE CRAWFORD HOUSE.

Places of Intebkst.— Mt. Washington, 9 miles to the saonnit ; Mt. Willard, 2 miles ;
Willey House in White Mountain Notch, Smiles; Ammonoosuc Falls, 5^ miles;
Beccher's Cascade, ^ mile ; Flume and Silver Cascades, ^ mile.

The Crawford House is situated on a broad plateau, 2,000
feet above the sea, at the western entrance to the "White Moun-
tain Notch, 22 miles from Littleton and 35 miles by stage
route from the Glen House, on the eastern side of the moun-
tains. The Hotel stands on the water-shed between the Saco
and Connecticut — the water at the barn, just west of the Hotel,
running west into the Ammonoosuc, and then into the Con-
necticut, while that, a little east of the Hotel, runs into the
Saco. ' •

The Hotel is spacious and is pleasantly furnished, and its
proprietors, Messrs. Hartshorne, Wolcott & Doyle, spare no
pains to provide for the wants of their guests. A band of mu-
sic is kept at the Hotel during the season, and at night, after
the return of visitors from their day's tramp among the moun-
tains, the elegantly furnished parlor is the center of a gay
scene. Fatigued though the tourist may be, a new life and
vigor is at once infused, as the inspiring music falls upon the
ear.

MT. WILLARD.

If the tourist came by the morning coach, after dinner he
will have ample time to visit Mt. Willard and the Notch. The
former is only two miles from the Hotel, and a good carriage
road has been constructed to its summit. Frequently tourists
who were never before here, thinking this to be of no especial
interest, neglect to visit it. No where in the whole mountains
is a finer and more striking view had, and no one should fail of
seeing it. The Hotel carriage will be in readiness after dinner
to make the trio. Leaving the Crawford House you go a short

256

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

distance cast, down the road towards the Notch, when you
turn to the right and enter the woods. The road is generally
good, and with few exceptions is not steep. Making a some-
what circuitous ascent you finally come out upon a plateau,
where a most sublime scene bursts upon you. Two thousand
feet below lies the famous White Mountain Notch, s > narrow
that there is only little more 'han room enough for the Saco
river and the carriage road. The forest of spruce seem like
low shrubs, while the famous Willey House half way down the
Notch, is only discernable. On the right is Mt. Willard, and
on the left Mt. Webster, their deep furrowed walls showing
plainly the many slides that have taken place here in times
past. You approach the edge of the precipice and sit down
upon the bare rock and contemplate the scene. You look down
the deep gorge and beyond to the distant mountain peaks, or
note by the growth of the shrubbery the spot where the great
avalanche swept down Mt. Willey and buried the Willeys be-
neath it. A visit to this place in the afternoon is preferable.
The west side is covered with a deep shadow, while the golden
sun-light, still clinging to Mt. Webster on the opposite side,
gives the scene a picturesque appearance. , i ... i,i j

Leaving the place reluctantly you resume your seat in the
coach, and return to the Hotel.

DOWN THE NOTCH.

There is still time left for a visit to the famous Willey house,
3 miles distant, in the White Mountain Notch. Leaving the
Hotel and traveling eastward, you come to

I ■■> n

THE SOURCE OF THE SACO, '

a little pond just to the left of the road, and in view of the
Crawford House. Here, this river which becomes a stream of
considerable importance before reaching the ocean, is only a

• ill'

ELEPHANTS HEAD.

257

little trickling rivulet. Passing on and just before you rfeach
the entrance to the Notch, you will notice on the left hand, -

elephant's hkad,

a huge rock, so named from the fact that it resembles the head
and trunk of a mammoth elephant. While viewing this as we
pass, we are "reminded of a little story." Some time since, a
very devout gentleman who had come to the mountains with
the Good Book in one pocket and a Guide Book in the other,
and like a good man, as he was, having that morning read both,
names and places were a "little mixed." He accosted our
jolly driver with : " Can you tell me, driver, where is Eph-
raim's Head ?" " Ephraim's Head ? You have the start of me
now, sir. Guess there's no such place about these mountains."
"Yes, there must be, I read about it this morning." "Don't
you mean ElephanVs Head ?" The good man drew forth his
guide book to make sure that he was right, and was afterwards
seen quietly replacing it in his pocket, remarking as he did so,
something about poor "specs" and bad eyesight.

THE gateway.

Passing on you enter the Gateway to the Notch. The Saco
finds its way through the rocks at your side, while almost i)cr-
pendicularly rise above you, in curious forms, great masses of
rocks in almost every conceivable shape. The driver, who is
not deficient in imagination, will point out various profiles, from
the little infant to the old maid. A little further on you come to

FLUME AND SILVER CASCADES,

both of which come dashing down over the irregular and rocky
surface of Mt. Webster, on your left. The Flume Cascade,
which you first reach, is more regular and less interesting than
Silver Cascade. The latter makes a descent of more than four

258

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

hunflred feet, and as it leaps from rock to rock, it presents an
extremely enchanting appearance. It seems like a silver cord
stretching up towards the very clouds.

THE devil's DEN.

As you pass down the Notch the driver will point out to your
view the summit of Mt. Willard, and on its broken face an ap-
erture in the rock. This is the Devil's Den, though we have
some doubts concerning its occupancy by his satanic majesty.
This cavern is only accessible by means of ropes from the sum-
mit of Mt. Willard. Dr. Ball of Boston explored it in 185G,
and found it to be 20 feet wide, 15 high and 20 feet deep. A
better view can be had of it as you come up the Notch.

THE WILLEY HOUSE, — SCENE OP THE TERRIBLE DISASTER.

Continuing down the Notch, you at last come to the Willey
House, made famous by that terrible calamity that happened
here more than 40 years ago. It stands on the west side of
the road, Mt. Willey rising from its rear to the hight of 2000
feet. The original house (an addition has since been erected,
adjoining it on the south) was built for a public house by a Mr.
Hill, about the year 1820, who occupied it for one year. Before
it was built there was no house for 13 miles, from the old
Crawford place, south of the Willey House, to Rosebrook's
near the Giant's Grave. In the Autumn of 1825, Mr. James
Willey, Jr., moved into the house, and on the night of August
28, 1826, a terrible storm raged in the Notch, masses of rocks,
trees and earth, covering a space of nearly a mile in length,
were precipitated from the side of Mt. Willey into the valley
below, burying the whole family, consisting of nine persons,
Mr. Willey and wife, five children and two hired men. Mr.
Willey apprehending that a slide might take place had con-
structed a rude hut below the house to which he thought his
family might retreat with safety, in case of necessity. It ap-

■DMaaesemcpsaai

THE WILLEY HOUSE.

259

pears that some time during the night his family set out to
reach the hut, and were overtaken and buried in the advancing
avalanche. A huge rock 30 feet high, stood in rear of the
house, which parted the sliding mass and saved the building
from destruction. Had the family remained in it, their lives
would have been saved. ; .'^

Starr King has told the story of this terrible tragedy so ad-
mirably in his White Hills, that we transfer it to these.pages.
He says: . . .-. . ., . ,

"In the Spring of 1826, Mr. Willey began to enlarge the
conveniences of the little inn for»entertaining guests. And in
the early summer the spot looked very attractive. There
was a beautiful meadow in front, stretching to the foot of the
frowning wall of Mount Webster, and garrisoned with tall
rock maples. To be sure, Mount Willey rose at a rather
threatening angle some two thousand feet behind the house
but it was not so savage in appearance as Mount Webster op-
posite, and pretty much the whole of its broad steep wall was
draped in gre«n. In a bright June morning the little meadow
farm, flecked with the nibbling sheep, and cooled by the patches
of shadow flung far out over the grass from the thick maple
foliage, must have seemed to a traveler passing there, and
hearing the pleasant murmur of the Saco and ihe shrill sweet-
ness of the Canada whistler, as romantic a spot as one could
fly to, to escape the fever and the perils of the world."

Late in June Mr. Willey and his wife, looking from the back
windows of their house in the afternoon of a misty day, saw a
large mass of the mountain above them sliding through the
fog towards their meadows, and almost in a line of the house
itself. Rocks and earth came plunging down, sweeping whole
trees before them that would stand erect in the swift slide for
rods before they fell. The slide moved under their eye to the
very foot of the mountain and hurled its frightful burden across
the road. At first they were greatly terrified and resolved t«

260

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

move from tlie Notch. But Mr. Willey, on reflection, felt con-
fident that such an event was not likely to occur again ; and
was satisfied with building a strong hut or cave a little below
the house in the Notc^h, which would certainly be secure, and to
which the family might fly for shelter.

Later in the summer there was a long hot drought. By the
middle of August, the earth, to a great depth in the mountain
region, was dried to powder. There came several days of
south wind, betokening copious rain. On Sunday, the 27th of
August, the rain began to fall. On Monday, the 28th, the
storm was very severe, and the rain was a deluge. Towards
evening the clouds around the White Mountain range and over
the Notch, to those who saw them from a distance, were very
heavy, black and awful. Later in the night they poured their
burden in streams. Between nine o'clock in the evening and
the dawn of Tuesday, the Saco rose twenty-five feet, and swept
the whole interval between the Notch and Conway. »^

On the morning of Tuesday the sun rose into a cloudless
sky and the air was remarkably transparent. The North Con-
way farmers, busy in saving what they could from the raging
flood of the Saco, saw clearly how terrible the storm had been
upon the Mount Washington range. The whole line was
devastated by land-slides. Great grooves could be distinctly
seen where the torrents had torn all the loose earth and stones
and left the solid ledge of the mountain bare.

What had been the fate of the little house in the Notch and
• of the Willey family during the deluge? All communication
with them on Tuesday morning was cut off by the flood of the
Saco. But at four o'clock Tuesday afternoon, a traveler pass-
ing Ethan Crawford's, seven miles west of the Willey House,
desired if possible to get through the Notch that night. By
swimming his horse across the wildest part of the flood, he was
put on the track. In the narrowest part of the road within the
Notch, the water had torn out huge rocks and left holes twenty

TERRIBLE DISASTER,

261

nng

and
tion
the
ass-

lUSC,

was

the

jnty

feet deep, and had opened trenches also ten feet deep and
twenty feet long. But the traveler, while daylight lasted, could
make his way on foot over the torn and obstructed road, and
he managed to reach the lower part of the Notch just before
dark. The little house was standing, but there were no human
inmates to greet him. And what desolation around ! The
mountain behind it once robed in beautiful green, was striped
for two or three miles with ravines, deep and freshly torn. The
lovely little meadow in front was covered with wet sand and
rocks, intermingled with branches of green treef, with shivered
trunks whose splintered ends looked similar to an old peeled
birchbroom, and with dead logs, which had evidenly long been
buried beneath the mountain soil. Not even any of the bushes
that grew up on the meadow in front of the house were to be
seen. The slide from the mountain had evidently divided, not
many rods above the house, against a sharp ledge of rock. It
had then joined the frightful mass in front of the house, and
pushed along to the bed of the Saco, covering the meadow, in
some places thirty feet, with the frightful debris and mire.

The traveler entered the house and went through it. The
doors were all open ; the beds and their clothing showed that
they had been hurriedly left ; a Bible was lying open on a table,
as if it had been read just before the family had departed.
The traveler consoled himself, at last, with the feeling that the
inmates had escaped to Abel Crawford's below, and then tried
to sleep in one of the deserted beds. But in the night he heard
moanings which frightened him so much ihat he lay sleepless
till dawn. Then he found that they were the groans of an ox in
the stable, that was partly crushed under broken timbers which
had fallen in. The two horses were killed. He released the
ox and went on his way towards Bartlett.

Before any news of the disaster had reached Conway, the
faithful dog came down to Mr. Lovejoy's, and, by moanings,
tried to make the family understand what had taken place*

■TTT"

262

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

Not succeeding, he left, and after being seen frequently on
the road, sometimes heading north and then south, running
almost at the top of his speed, as though bent on some absorb-
ing errand, he soon disappeared from the region, and has never
since been seen.

On Wednesday evening suspicions of the safety of the
family were carrietl down to Bartlett and North Conway, where
Mr. Willey's father and brothers lived. But they were not
credited. The terrible certainty was to be communicated to
the father in the most thrilling way. At midnight on Wednes-
day a messenger reached the bank of the river opposite his
house in Lower Bartlett, but could not cross. He blew a
trumpet, blast after blast. The noise and the mountain echoes
startled the family and the neighborhood from their- repose.
They soon gathered on the river bank and heard the sad
message shouted to them through the darkness.

On Thursday, the 31st of August, the family and many
neighbors were able to reach the Notch. Search was com-
menced at once for the buried bodies. The first that was
exhumed was one of the hired men, David Allen, a man of
powerful frame and remarkable strength. He was but slightly
disfigured. He was found near the top of a pile of earth and
shuttered timbers, with hands clenched and full of broken sticks
and small limbs of trees. Soon the bodies of Mrs. Willey and
her husband were discovered — the latter not so crushed that it
could not be recognized.

No more could be found that day. Rude coffins were pre-
pared, and the next day, Friday, about sunset, the simple burial
service was offered. Elder Samuel Hasaltine, standing amidst
the company of strong, manly forms, where faces were wet with
tears, commenced the service with the words of Isaiah : " Who
hath measured the waters in the hollow of his hand, and meted
out heaven with a span, and comprehended the dust of the
earth in a measure, and weighed the mountains in scales, and

THE TEUniBLE DISASTEH.

263

the hills in a balance ? " IIow fitting this languajfe In that sol-
emn pass, and how unspeakably more impressive must the
words have seemed, when the mountains themselves took them
up, and literally responded them, joining as mourners in the
burial liturgy 1 For the minister stood so that each one of these
sublime words was given back by the echo, in a tone as clear
and reverent as that in which they were uttered.

The next day the body of the youngest child, about three
years old, was found, and also that of the other hired man.
On Sunday, the eldest daughter was discovered, at a distance
from the others, across the river. A bed was found on the
ruins near her body. It was supposed that she was drowned,
as no bruise or mark was found upon her. She was twelve
years old, and Ethan Crawford tells us she had acquired a good
education, and seemed more like a gentleman's daughter of
fashion and afiluence, than a daughter of one who had located
himself in the midst of the mountains. Thes« were buried with-
out any religious service. Three children— a daughter and
two sons— were never found.

The relatives who studied the ground closely after the disas-
ter, were unable to conjecture why the family could not have
outrun the landslide, or crossed its track, if they left the house
as soon as they heard its descent up the mountain. Some of
them, at least, they thought, should thus have been able to
escape its devastation. Mr. James Willey informs us that the
tpint of his brother appeared to him in a dream, and told him
that the family left the house sometime before the avalanche,
fearing to be drowned, or floated off by the Saco, which had
risen to the door. They fled back, he said, further up the
mountain to be safe against the peril of water, and thus, when
the landslide^ move* towards them, were compelled to run a
greater di^^tance to escape it than would have been required if
they had stayed in their home ; while they would have been
swept off by the flood, if they had kept the line of the road

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264

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

which could have conducted them out of the Notch. It is a
singular fact, Mr. Benjamin Willey tells us, that this explana-
tion accounts for more known features of the catastrophe than
any other which has been found. It explains why the eldest
daughter was found without a bruise as though she had been
drowned ; and also the fact that a bed was found near her
body, with which certainly the family would not have encum-
bered themselves, if they had rushed from the house with the
single hope of escaping destruction when the avalanche was
hear. It accounts for the appearance of the body of the hired
man, who was first discovered. And by connecting the terror
of a sudden flood with the other horrors of the night, it brings
the picture into harmony with w^hat we know of the ravage
and disaster along the Saco below.

The Bible was open on the table in the Willey House when
it was entered the next day. The family were then secure
from the wrath of elements that desolate the earth. At what
place could the book have been found open more fitting than
the sixteenth Psalm, to express the horrors of the tempest
and the deliverance which the spirit finds ? " The Lord also
thundered in the heavens, and the Highest gave his voice ;
hailstones and coals of fire. Then the channels of waters were
seen, and the foundations of the world were discovered at thy
rebuke, O Lord, at the blast of *lie breath of thy nostrils. He
sent from above, he took me, he drew me out of many waters.
He brought me forth also into a large place ; he delivered me,
because he delighted in me."

South of the Willey House, upon the spot where a portion
of the family were buried by the avalanche, it was a custom
during several years for each visitor to cast a stone, and thus a
large monument was reared out of the ruins of the slide.

■■■

TOE NOTCn IN FOBMEB DAYS.

265

RETURN TO THE CRAWFORD HOUSE, — THE NOTCH IN FORMER

DAYS.

After the carriage has taken the tourist to the monument
south of the Willey House, it returns to the Hotel. The view
as you pass up the Notch is more interesting than the one you
get while going down. The bare and broken rocks on the side
of Mt. Willard stand before you like a great wall.

In the early settlement of New Hampshire a turnpike was
constructed through the Notch at a cost of $40,000, and until
the railroads were built, there was a great deal of travel through
it, to and from Portsmouth. The Notch was discovered in
1772, by a hunter named Nash, who climbed a tree on Cherry
Mountain, west of the Crawford House. It was, however, with
great difficulty that teams could pass through it. Horses were
pulled up the narrowest portions between Mt. Willey and Mt.
Webster, and let down by ropes. " The primitive method,'*
says Starr King, " of transporting any commodities, was to cut
two poles some fifteen feet in length, nail a couple of bars across
the middle, on which a bag or barrel could be fastened, then
harness the horse into the smaller ends, which served as thills,
and let the larger ends, which had no wheels under them, drag
on the ground. The first article of commerce that was carried
in this way from the sea-shore, through the solemn walls and
over the splintered outlet of the Notch, was a barrel of rum.
It was taxed heavily in its own substance, however, to ensure
its passage, and reached the Ammonoosuc Meadows, west of
the Notch, in a very reduced condition."

BEECHERS CASCADE.

In rear of the Crawford House is Beecher's Cascade. For-
merly this was known as Gibbs' Falls, named after a former
12 ■

266

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

proprietor of the Hotel. Mr. Gibbs' name has been attached
to another, in the woods on the opposite side of tlie road.
Leaving the Hotel you turn to the right and enter the foot-
path along side of the small mountain stream. In a few min-
utes you come to the first cascade. Here Henry Ward Beecher
took an involuntary bath, and since his name has been given
to the pretty little water-fall. For nearly half a mile up the
mountain you will find a series of cascades quite pretty to look
upon. Cross the stream and follow the foot-path near it until
you come at last to the guide-board pointing north. Here up-
on this rock a beautiful view is to be had. Looking out
through the opening in the forest, you have a good view of Mt.
Washington and the Tip Top House on its summit. This is the
only place near the Crawford House, accessible by foot-path,
where a view of Mt. Washington can be had. It is a quiet,
charming place, and all will enjoy the walk to it as well as the

view.

r .;

THE MT. WILLEY CASCADES.

There are several cascades on Mt. Willey, seldom visited by
tourists, that are said to be quite equal to any in the mountain
region. They were first discovered in 1858. To reach them
you go down the Notch until you come to Cow Brook, the sec-
ond Si earn below the Willey House. Following this for nearly
two miles into the mountains you come to Sylvan Glade Cata-
ract. Here the little stream leaps down a rocky stairway and
then glides down a solid bed of granite, 150 feet at an angle of
45 degrees. A mile higher is Sparkling Cascade, quite equal
in beauty to the first. Some labor is necessary to reach these
water-falls, but if one has the leisure ho will find himself well
repaid.

AMM0N008UC FALLS.

267

I by

AMMONOOSUC FALLS.

Five and a half miles north of the Crawford House are
Ammonoosuc Falls. The Hotel carriage makes regular trips
to them, and you should by no means neglect to avail yourself
of the opportunity jf seeing one of the most remarkable sights
of the mountain region. The river itself is one of the wildest
in New England. Rising in the ravines of Mt. "Washington, it
makes a fall of not less than 5000 feet before it reaches the
Connecticut. The ride to it from the CraMford House is very
pleasant. You keep along the road leading to Littleton, for
several miles, when you turn to the right and soon enter the
forest. On coming to the river you leave the carriage and ,
walk up and down the bank for several rods, from which a bet-
ter view is had. A deep and narrow channel has been worn
in the gray granite, and the appearance of the rock is singular
in the extreme. Great pot-holes, worn out by the water, and
some of them more than ten feet above its usual summer hight,
suggest the long ages that must have past since it commenced
to drain this region. The tourist should pass down the river
after viewing it at the rustic bridge.

THE MT. WASHINGTON RAILWAY AND NEW FABTAN HOTEL.

Sylvester Marsh, Esq., of Littleton, New Hampshire, having
invented an engine for ascending and descending steep grades,
a railroad was commenced to be built in 18G6, from the base
to the summit of Mt. Washington. It is located on the west
side of the mountain, commencing at a point above Ammonoo-
suc Falls, and 6| miles from the Littleton road. The distance
from the commencement of the railroad to the Tip Top House
is nearly three miles. Nearly a mile of the track was laid in
1866, and the engine and car ascended and descended a grade
of 1700 feet to the mile, with perfect ease and safety. The*

r-*f r^'VVPViia .11 f.

268 THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

remainder of the road will be completed during 18G7-8. Pas-
sengers will be carried this year over the road as far as com-
pleted, and horses will be kept at the terminus to convey them
to the Tip Top House.

This invention was suggested to Mr. Marsh several years
since, and when he applied for a charter in the New Hamp-
shire Legislature for a road to the summit of Mt. Washington,
a member suggested that the bill be so amended that the road
extend to the moon. Mr. Marsh thanked the gentleman for
his suggestion, but for the present he only contemplated ascend-
ing to the cone of Mt. Washington. The idea was scouted at
first, and it was some time before he could get his invention
tested. A third rail is laid between the two upon which the
outside wheels rest, consisting of a series of cogs. In this
runs a cog-wheel, and at each revolution the engine is propelled
up the mountain at a slow but regular speed. The boiler is so
arranged that it keps a perpendicular position whatever the
grade. It is calculated that the ascent will be made in an hour,
and those who have examined it, claim with entire safety.

A new Hotel, capable of accommodating five hundred guests,
is to be built near where tne old Fabyan House stood, by the
Railroad Company, who also have contracted for the building
of a turnpike from the Hotel to the Railroad. The Hotel will
be completed in season for the summer travel of 1868.

Visitors at the Crawford House can go to the railroad by
taking the road leading to Ammonoosuc Falls. The distance
is about eight miles.

ASCENT OB* MOUNT WASHINGTON FROM THE CRAWFORD

HOUSE.

The tourist having seen the places of note near the Crawford
House, he will now prepare to ascend Mount Washington, the
crowning glory of the visit to the mountains. It is said of the
dwellers in our modern Athens that when they die they expect

ASCENT OP MOrNT WASHINGTON.

269

brd
the
the
lect

to go to Paris. If Mount Wasliington was substituted we
should be inclined to regard the arrangement as complete. It
is evident that they would receive a heavenly experience at
the summit. There is nothing more grand and elevating than
the view from Mount Washington, and if it is possible to get a
foretaste of heaven in the material world, one is sure of it
there. The mighty space that comes within the vision, im-
presses one with his own insignificance, and the greatness of
the Cause of all this vastness and sublimity.

There is usually from twenty to thirty degrees difference in
the temperature at the summit of Mount Washington, in com-
parison with that at the Crawford House. If possible select a
clear day just following a storm, but if your time is limited take
the best you can get, if not too cold, for you should by no
means fail to make the trip. The cone is quite frequently
cloud-capped. This in a great measure detracts from the view,
but don't stop for that. Your experience will be worth the
effort, and it will be an event that you will always treasure.
Dress warmly at all events. Thick gloves, an overcoat or
shawl will not come amiss before you have reached the summit.
The sharp winds are no where more searching.

The ponies are brought out and stand in a group in front of
the Crawford House. The names of the party who have
registered themselves for the trip are called, and each steps
forward and mounts the trusty animal which is to bear him
upon his back to the regions above. Passing across the road
he waits until all are ready. The band appear and strike up
a familiar air, and the word "go" is given, the guide, who has
the party in charge, falling in rear at first and then following
closely up to urge the animals forward. You enter the forest
and press on, the sweet strains of music falling pleasantly upon
the ear, until you pass beyond its sound. i

The bridle path follows closely the summit of the White
Mountain range, which you travel in a northerly direction until

f^p^iM, mmtflngmt

270 THE CONNECTICUT VALLET GUIDE.

you reach Mount Washington. Each peak of the range has a
separate name, and that which you commence to ascend at the
Crawford House is Mount Clinton ; then comes Mount Pleas-
ant, Mount Franklin, Mount Monroe, and Mount Washington.

As soon as you are out of the forest you are on the summit
of Mount Clinton, 4,200 feet above the sea. Following the
ridge you descend a little, and soon mount the rounded summit
of Mount Pleasant, 600 feet above Mount Clinton. Descend-
ing to the narrow ridge you come to Mount Franklin, which is
only a little more than a hundred feet above Mount Pleasant.
Still beyond and 500 feet higher, are the double peaks of Mount
Monroe. Winding down and to the east of Monroe, you come
in full view of Mount Washington, which is more than a thou-
sand feet above you. Here on your left is the Lake of the
Clouds, from which the Ammonoosuc takes its rise. If not
cloud-capped the Tip-Top House is in full view. It seems only
a short distance to it, but your path is exceedingly circuitous,
and it will take nearly an hour before the summit is gained.

The view all the way has been full of interest, and from each
peak you have had a new grandeur unfolded. The horizon,
at the Crawford House close around you, recedes at every step
towards the summit, and at last it seems hardly defined, so wide
the extent over which the eye wanders. ' > ;

Onward and upward being the motto, you strike for the
summit. After passing the Lake of the Clouds, all around
you there is nothing but a broken mass of rocks, through which
a narrow path has with great difficulty been made. Bearing
around to the north-westerly side, you finally come to the en-
closure of rocks, where you dismount. Leaving your ponies
here, you pick your way over the loose rocks to the Tip-Top
House, which is only a few rods distant. If the wind is blow-
ing a gale from the north-west, as it frequently does, you are
glad to enter the House before stopping to get a realizing sense
of the scene before you. The cheerful fire within has too many
attractiois.

SUMMIT OF MT. WASHINGTON.

271

THE SUMMIT OF MT. WASHINGTON — THE VIEW.

The goal is reached. You stand on the summit of Mt.
Washington. Sixty-three hundred feet above old ocearf!
The grandeur and sublimity of all New England at your feet !
Oh ! Heavens ! is there another such a view ? You have read,
you have dreamed of grand old mountains, buL not even the
rose-coloring of boyhood ever pictured to your imagination such
vastness and sublimity. Words fail to give adequate expression
to the feeling that has come over you and you stand in mute
silence before this awe-inspiring scene. If there be one place
more holy than another you are sure that it has at last been
reached, for here is a grand temple not reared with hands, and
it seems too sacred a place to be profaned by the coarse and
vulgar, who never read sermons in towering mou'.tains, track-
less forests and mighty rocks.

The scene is so vast that the effect of first standing upon the
summit is bewildering. Below you are huge mountain peaks,
the earth's surface seemingly having been tossed into a tempest,
and you are sure that this must be chaos itself. A great white
cloud, perhaps, sweeps by, enveloping you in its mist. Then
again it is sunlight above, while below only here and there a
moufttain peak protrudes through the thick clouds, resembling
islands in a vast lake.

The summit upon which you stand, cavering about an acre
and a half, is comparatively level, and is made up of a broken
mass of dark mica slate, so rough that it is with great difficulty
that you walk over it. Here are the Tip Top and Summit
Houses, buiit of the loose rocks, the roofs of which are made
secure by long chain cables passing over them and then fastened
to the rocks below. They are owned by Mr. John R. Hitch-
cock of the Alpine House at Gorham. Lodging accommoda-
tions are provided, so that those who wish may remain over
night and witness the setting and rising of the sun. Just east

272

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

of the house is the stable, where the horses are kept that come
to the summit by the carriage road from the Glen House.

North of the Tip Top House, and a part of the White
Mountain range, are Mts. Clay, Jefferson, Adams and Madison.

Easterly, seemingly not far from the base of Mt. Washing-
ton, is the Androscoggin valley, while in the distance, rising
from the central forests of Maine, is Mt. Katahdin.

South-east, and directly below you, are Carter and Pinkham
Notches. Further beyond are ponds in Maine and the harbor
at Portland, the latter 7 6 miles distant. Lovewell's pond, where
an Indian tragedy once occured, can also be seen. Mt. Kear-
Barge also stands prominently before you.

South the sharp peak of Chocorua is seen, touching the very
sky, while a little to the right of it is Lake Winnipisoegee.
Still beyond the dim outlines of Monadnock are seen.

South-west are Mts. Carrigan and Lafayette.

West lies the beautiful valley of the Ammonoosuc. Beyond
are the Green Mountains, Camel's Hump, Mount Mansfield
and Jay Peak, standing prominently in the distant view.
With favorable light it is claimed that one of the highest peaks
of the Adirondacks can be seen.

These are only some of the more prominent objects that can
be seen from thn summit of Mt. Washington. The minor
details that fill the eye on every hand have a thousand beauties
peculiar to themselves, and you want time to carefully study
them. Light and shade as they alternate reveal the hidden
loveliness of this great expanse, and so great and so many are
the changes you never grow weary in tracing the deep valleys
or long mountain ranges. , : , : , • .

THE MISS BOURNE MONUMENT,

A few rods northerly of the Tip Top House, and just below
it, is the rude pile of stones thrown up in memory of Miss
Bourne, of Kennel nk, Maine, who perished here in a Sep-

BOURNE MONUMENT — TUCKERMAN's RAVINE. 273

tember night in 1855. She, together with an uncle and cousin,
left the Glen House in the afternoon of a lovely September
day to walk on the carriage road, and tempted by the favorable
weather they concluded to make the ascent of the mountain.
Sunset and a deep fog settled over them, and the wind became
fierce and cutting, and finally Miss Bourne sank exhausted,
about ten o'clock, within hailing distance of the summit. A
wall of stone was thrown up to protect her against the wind,
but she soon expired. They remained by her until morning,
which revealed to them the nearness of the Tip Top House.

Not far from this place Mr. Benjamin Chandler, of Dela-
ware, was lost, and his remains were not found for more than
a year. Still farther below Dr. Hall, of Boston, passed two
nights in an October snow storm, without food or covering.
His feet were frozen, but he was saved from death.

'< i

TUCKERMAN's RAVINE.

East of the Tip Top House is Tuckerman's Ravine, named
after Prof. Edward Tuckerman, of Amherst College, who used
,to explore it years ago to complete his knowledge of the lichens
and flora of the "White Mountain region. The distance from
the Tip Top House to the bottom is about a mile. Here,
sheltered from the sun, the snow remains nearly through the
year, only disappearing in August, a few weeks before it falls
again. By the melting of the snpw underneath, a beautiful
arch is formed, which can be seen usually as late as August.
It is a wild and interesting place, and if time will permit it
should be visi'ted.

THE RETURN.

Having enjoyed the beautiful view at the summit, and
refreshed by an excellent dinner at the Tip Top House, you
are now ready to return. If you prefer you can go down by
12*

• pi9« ••»• ^

274 THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

carriage to the Glen House, which usually reaches the summit
at noon. If you go back to the Crawford House you will find
your pony in the enclosure where left, and a ride of about
three hours will take you back to the hotel.

FROM Crawford's to the glen house.

From Crawford's to the Glen House you have the choice of
two routes, over Cherry Mountain, to the Waumbeek House,
and thence to the Glen ; or south through the White Mountain
Notch, down the valley of the Saco, and thence through Pink-
ham Notch. The distance either way is about the same, 35
miles, and involves an all day ride.

THE C6ERRT mountain ROUTE.

The coach leaves the hotel about 8 o'clock, soon after break-
fast, and follows the Littleton route until it reaches the White
Mountain House. Here it turns to the right and passes over
Cherry Mountain. The ride over the mountain is very unin-
teresting, but you no sooner emerge from the forest than a
lovely view greets the vision. Beyond is the Waumbeek House,
at the foot of the Jefferson Hills, and to the left are mountains
in Vermont. Reaching the Waumbeek at noon you stop for
dinner. The hotel is kept by Mr. B. H. Plaisted. In rear of
the hotel is Starr King Mountain, from which a good view is
had. The view of Mt. Washington and the entire range from
the Waumbeek House adds much to the interest of the place.
From the Waumbeek to the Glen House the ride is exceed-
ingly interesting, and from no where around the base do you
get so good a view of the mountains.

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH ROUTE.

In going to the Glen House from Crawford's by this route,
you enter the Notch east of the Crawford House and pass the

nancy's brook — sawyer's rock.

275

"Willey House. A half mile below is where lived old Abel
Crawford, the pioneer of this mountain region. Continuing
down the vallej you come to

nancy's brook.

A poor girl who lived with a family at Jefferson, was found
frozen to death here in 1778. She was engaged to be married
to a man who lived in the same family, and to whom she had
entrusted all her earnings. They were to leave for Ports-
mouth in a few days, to be married, and while she was absent
in Lancaster, the faithless lover started for Portsmouth with
his employer, without leaving any explanation for her. She
learned the fact the day he left, and at once walked nine miles
to Jefferson, where she tied up a small bundle, and started in
pursuit. Snow had fallen, and only a hunter's path, marked by
spotted trees, indicated the way through the wilderness. It was
thirty miles to the Notch, but nothing daunted she set out at
nightfall, hoping to overtake her lover in camp at the Notch,
before the party left the next morning. When she reached the
spot, they had left, though the ashes of the camp fire were still
warm. Continuing down through the Notch, where only one
woman had passed before her, cold, wet and hungry, she sank
exhausted by the side of a tree near " Nancy's Brook."
Alarmed for her safety, a party left Jefferson in pursuit, and
they found her chilled and stiff in the snow, her head resting
upon her staff, not a long time after she had ceased to breathe.
The lover of the poor girl, on hearing the story of her faithful-
ness, her suffering and death, became insane and died a raving
maniac.

sawyer's rock.

Below Nancy's Brook you come to Sawyer's Rock, which
the driver will point out to you. The discovery of the Notch
by a hunter n£j.med Nash, who climbe4 ^ tree pn Cherrjr MoiJO-

276 THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

tain, was made known to Governor Wentworth. The Governor
promised Nash a large tract of land if he would demonstrate
the feasibility of the pass by bringing a horse through it to
Portsmouth. Aided by a fellow hunter named Sawyer, the
horse was let down the rocks at various places until they had
passed over all. Draining^is rum bottle and dashing it on the
r6ck, Sawyer exclaimed, " This shall hereafter be called Saw-
yer's Rock !"

Just below the Rock you come to Upper Bartlett House,
kept by Mr. N. F. Stillings. Passengers from the Glen
House, stop here for dinner, and a good one they are always
sure of. From here to Ellis River, the Saco valley is more
broad and fertile. On reaching Ellis River you turn to the
left and pursue a more northerly route. At Jackson you stop
for dinner. From Jackson to the Glen House, you pass
through Pinkhara Notch. The scenery is quite interesting, the
mountains rising to great height. Glen Ellis Falls, Crystal
Cascade, and other places of note, a short distance from the
road, are passed before leaching the Glen House, at the close
of the day.

GLEN HOUSE.

Odjects op Intbrbst. — Thompson's Falls, two miles ; Crystal Cascade, three miles ;
Qlea Ellis Falls, four miles ; Emerald and Garnet Pools, and Tuckennan's Kaviue.

Down in the narrow valley, which lies between Mount
Washington and Mount Carter, is the Glen House, of which
Mr. J. M. Thompson is landlord and proprietor. It is a
charming spot indeed. Back and east of the Hotel is the
Mount Carter range, 3,000 feet high, while before it on the
west are Mounts Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, ^nd
Madison. The Hotel is only eight miles from Gorham, c he
Grand Trunk Railroad, which makes it easy of access. It is
414 feet in length, a very large addition having been made to
it in 1866 ; and it will now accommodate between foui and five

THE MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE ROAD.

277

hundred people. Its nearness to the Railroad, and the ease
with which the ascent of Mount "Washington can be made from
the Glen House, has always made this a place of great resort.
While no where about the mountains are the water falls so
grand and beautiful, the mountain scenery is in no respect
inferior. - -

THE MOUNT WASHINGTON CARRIAGE ROAD.

One of the greatest triumphs of engineering skill, was the
construction of the carriage road to the summit of Mount
Washington. Commencing in front of the Glen House, it was
made over a circuitous route to the Tip-Top House, on the
cone of Mount Washington. Its entire length is eight miles,
and no where does its grade exceed sixteen feet in one hundred,
while its average is only twelve. It is broad and well built,
and no where is there a better road in New England. A char-
ter was procured, and in 1855 its construction was commenced,
under the management of Mr. D. O. Macomber. In the fol-
lowing year it was finished to the Ledge, four miles from the
Glen House. Five years afterward, in 1861, it was completed
to the summit, and opened for travel. The surveys were made
and the road laid out by Mr. Charles H. V. Cavis, who con-
tinued to be Superintendent of construction until 1857, when
work was suspended on account of financial difficulties.

For half the way up the mountain the road windi; through
tlie forest, coming out at the Ledge. From here it continues
along the edge of the deep ravine, which separate Mount Wash-
ington from Jefierson and Adams. Then it curves to the east-
ern side of the mountain, where it overlooks Peabody and Ellis
Rivers. The scenery here is perhaps superior to that on any
part of the road. Above and below you can see the carriages
moving slowly along the road, while the distant view is grand
in the extreme. Just before reaching the summit you will no-

U^IPI^IIIUIM^

ijJ4PMiM!,J(i^qn^iPV^i|nrr"ll^UI| l^lNPfli^Uf^^

278

THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

tice, on your left, the rude monument which marks the spot
where Miss Bourne died of exhaustion, in September, 1855.

The ascent is made in four hours, by the carriages, from the
Glen House.

Below are the rates of toll charged for passing over the road:

Foot passenger, ...

On horseback, . . . .

In carriage, ....

Sulky, with one horse, . - -

Carriage with four wheels, each person,
Carriage with two horses,
Carriage with four horses,

82 cents.
80 «

80
. 64

64
- 94

$1.28

The charge for riding each way, up or down the mountain,
is $4 for each person, which includes toll.

GARNET POOL.

A half mile north of the Glen House is Garnet Pool. The
Peabody River in its descent over the granite rocks, has worn
out singular looking places, some fifteen or twenty feet in cir-
cumference.

The most interesting cascades and water falls are south of
the Glen House. First you come to ^

EMERALD POOL,

about two miles below the Glen House. The water in Ellis
River passes over broken rocks, and then flows into a quiet
stream.

Thompson's falls,

are also about two miles from the Hotel, near the road leading
to Jackson. You turn to the left and enter the woods at the
guide board. A walk of a few minutes takes you to a series of
beautiful cascades in a small brook coming down the mountain
side, which extend more than half a mile. From the upper
cascade you get a fine view of Tuckerman's Ravine and Mount
Washington.

CRYSTAL CASCADE — GLEN ELLIS F^LLS.

279

CRYSTAL CASCADE.

Continuing down the Glen till you come to the guide board
on your right, three miles from the hotel, you leave the carriage
and follow the foot path for nearly half an hour, when you
come to Crystal Cascade. Part of its water comes from the
summit of Mt. Washington, through Tuckerman's Ravine.
Stopping for a moment at the bottom to view the cascade, you
climb to the top of the high bank opposite, that overhangs it,
where a better view is had. Is there anything more beautiful ?
At the top the water issues from among the rocks in a single
narrow stream, and its descent broadens until it reaches the
pool below. Eastman very happily compares it " to an inverted
liquid plume — the rill above, where the water is one stream,
being the stem, and the widening, fleecy flow its nodding,
graceful, feathery spray."

GLEN ELLIS FALLS.

Four miles south of the Glen House is Glen Ellis Falls.
You leave the carriage and enter the woods on the left, and a
walk of a few minutes brings you to the grandest cataract in
the White Mountain region. The Ellis River in its southward
course is here compressed into a narrow channel, and at this
point makes almost a perpendicular descent of GO feet at a
single bound. You should pass down the stair -way to the bot-
tom of the fall to get its greatest beauty. An hour spent here
in studying the wildness of the scenery will always be a pleas-
ing recollection of your visit to the White Mountains.

280

'^E CONNECTICUT VALLEY GUIDE.

HOTEL AND STAGE FARES.

Board at all of the first class hotels in the White Mountains
this year will be from $4.00 to $4.50 per day.

Stage fares between the different points will be as follows :

Littleton to Profile TIoubc, . - - - -

Littleton to Crawford House, . - - - •

Proflle House to Crawford House, .. . - -

Crawford House to Glen House, by Cherry Mountain, or White
( Mountain Notch, . . - - -

'. Glen House to Gorham, ------

Glen House to Tip Top House, - - " -

Pony ftom Crawford House to Tip Top Houso and return, -
Pony from Profile House to Summit of Mt. Lafayette, -

®2 00

3 50

4 00

4 '0
1 00
4 00
400
3 50

y-'f'

BRANDON, VERMONT.

281

BRANDON, VERMONT.

Brandon is situated on the Rutland and Bulington Railroad,
17 miles north of Rutland, and 50 south of Burlington. It is
noted for being the birth-place of Stephen A. Douglas, its ex-
tensive marble quarries, most of which have just been dis-
covered, and for the manufacture of

howe's scales,

which are extensively carried on. The Howe Scale Company
commenced manufacturing in 1857. Almost every variety is
made, from the capacity of 100 tons, to the small post-office
balance, and they are getting a wide celebrity for their neat-
ness, accuracy and durability. The proprietors have never
shrunk from exhibiting at all important State fairs, in the face
of veteran performers, and have never failed to obtain first
class premiums. The proprietors have several patents which
secure to them advantages not possessed by other scale makers.
By introducing Chilled Iron Balls between the platforms and
the knife edges, and by making all the bearings self-adjusting,
they take nearly all the wear from the pivots, upon the sharp-
ness of which the accuracy and durability of ail scales very
largely depends. . All the large scales which are designed
mainly ibr out door use, have their bearings so protected from
the snow and ice, as to render them very easily kept in order dur-
ing the winter. They require but little and often no Pit, and
although the most simple scales ever made, are so constructed
as to secure the greatest strength at all points where strength
is needed. These, as well as the Hopper Scales, for Elevators
and Grain Depots, Rolling Mill Scales, for weighing Iron in
its various forms. Dormant Scales, for large stores and ware-
houses, and the large variety of Portable Scales, are made in
the mc jt thorough manner by the best mechanics and most ex-
perienced scale makers that can be obtained. None but the
best materials are used. All the pivots are made of the best
refined steel.

Tourists who may stop 'at Brandon will find the Scale works
well worth visiting.

INSURE AGAINST

ACCIDZSNTS!

WITH THE

RAILWAY PASSENGERS ASSURANCE COMPANY,

OF HARTFORD. CONN.
Capital, - - - - $304,800.

JAMES G. BATTERSON, President.

GEORGE B. WRIGHT, Vice-President.
HENRY T. SPERRY, Secretary.

JUSTIN SNOW, General Ticket Agent.

PLATES. '

REGISTERED GENERAL ACCIDENT TICKETS.

Reiristered General Accident Tickets or Policies require no application,
are fully registered at the Home Office^ and insure against all accidents travel-
ing or otherwise, for $6,000 in case of fatal accident, or $25 weekly indem-
nity for loss of time during total disability for a period not exceeding twenty-
six weeks.

These Tickfta are issued at 25 Cents per Day, or $3.00 for 30
Days' Insurance.

THE GENERAL ACCIDENT TICKETS OF TRAVEL
cover all Accidents happening to the insured during the prosecution of his
journey, and entitle him to $25 per week compensation during total disability
from nou-fatal injuries, or $5,000 the event of death.

For t day, fiOc. For 5 days, $1.00 For 20 days, $3.00
For 3 days, 60c. J<or lOdays, 2.00 For 30 days, 4.00

THE TRAVELERS RISK TICKETS
cover such Accidents ONLY as may happen TO THE CONVEYANCE by
which the insured may be at the time traveling, and which result iu Loss of
Life or Personal Injury.

Rates for Travelers Risk Tickets, insuring $15 per week compensation dur-
ing total disability from non-fatal injuries, or $3,000 in the event of death.

For 1 day, 10c. For 5 days, ^ 50c. For 20 days, $1.50

For 3 days, 30c. For 10 days, $l.uO For 30 days, 2.00

U^ No better or more satisfactory investment can be made of so small
a sum; therefore, buy the "General At^ciDENx" and "Passengers
Assurance Tickets."

During the year ending May 31st, 1867, this Company has paid mor«
than $33,000 losses on Tickets which cost the holders $147.70.

lew ¥opi H

flAKlE

RAILROAD ANB STEAMBOAT CONNECTION.

Through Tickets to New York,

For sale at all the principal Railroad Stations. These new,
first-class Steamers, each 1500 tons burden, leave New Haven
for New York at 10.15 A. M., and 11.00 P. M.

Passengers from the North arriving in Springfield at 6.00
P. M., can stop there leisurely for supper and rest, and take
the- Steamboat Train which leaves Springfield at 8.20 P. M.,
and after a good night's rest, arrive in New York at daylight
next morping. |^ State-rooms can be secured at the ticket
office in the Depot at Springfield.

Passengers from New York by this route, take the steamer
Continental at Pier 25 East River, at 3.|5 P. M., lodge in
Springfield and reach the White Mountains, Canada, dec, the
next afternoon with ease. > >1

■■TF»-wf«"BiF'i|P(i™'* «iv "I'll. ■■uiii.Hi iifijiia .■JA,14'(,pPI',>*r**?M"

WliilUilPf lilil

BRATTT.EBORO, VT.

Since the last season, we hare made extensire improTements, in the reconttrnotion
of rooms and halls, and also in the bathing rooms, in which we have an abundant and
never failing supply of the purest spring water to be found in the Unit'^d States.

For the general use of boarders, there are parlors, saloons for conversation, mosio
and dancing, a large dining hall, seating upwards of 176 persons, a wide piazza 800 feet
in length, affording a welcome shade in warm and a retreat for exercise in stormy
weather, bowling alleys, croquet ground, etc., all in fine order.

Our table will be furnisheJ with the best the market affords, and will compare favor.
»bly with that of any flrst-class Hotel.

The following extract is from the New York " Citizen," edited by Miles O'Riley :

"As a watering place, Brattleboro is to us far more attractive than many of the
more notable resorts. Its prevailing atmosphere is more quiet and subdued, its strcetA
are regularly laid out, apd adorned with chaste and elegant residences. The numerous
drives that lead from the place in almost every direction, afford a pleasant variety of
Bcene to travellers by the road. With its four thousand inhabitants, it is not so pop-
ulous^ as to have lost its rural aspect. After Niagara and West Point, we prefer Brat-
tleboro to Saratoga, Newport and Long Branch. The Wesselhoeft House is the most
retired and fashionable hotel of the town."

P. B. FRANCIS,
JOHN KNOWLTON,

Proprietors.

WASON M'F'C CO.,

Esilway i^r lillieri

SPRINGFIELD, MASS., U. S. A.

Geo. C. Fiske, Treaa.
H. S. Hyde, Sec.

T. W. WASON, President.
L. O. Hanson, Sup't.

J. BUMSTEAD, Asst. Supt.

BUBLINGTON, VERMONT.

ITe l5«

[^ W'm^i^MtQ>tt

Tourists to and from the "White Mountains or Lake George,
will find Burlington a pleasant stopping-place, the city lying
upon elevated ground, and overlooking the Lake and the Adi-
rondack range in Northern New York,

Passengers leaving the White Mountains in the morning,
dine at White River Junction, pass through the magnificent
scenery of the Green Mountains, lodge at Burlington, and
proceed the next morning, if they prefer, by steamer at 10.15,
dine on board, land at Ticonderoga at 2.30, and then take the
steamer Minnehaha, on Lake George, reaching Fort William
Henry in season for early tea. • v

Establishod 1846.

^^/V^^S^i^o^

J. ESTEY & CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF THE

EBWM mTTAm m^MB,

BRATTLEBORO, VT.

THE INVENTORS OF THE OBIOIML AND GENUINE

coTT^aE ougtA^n,

AND PROPRIETORS OF THE

Patent "Earmonic Attachment," "Manual Sub-bass,"

'Knee Swell," and the beautiful "Vox Ilumnna Tremolo."

Also of many other valuable improvements found only in the Estey Organ .

T7ie leading Organists and Musicians of the United States
endorse them as superior to all others.

WHOLESALE WAREROOMS :

417 Broome Street, New York,
395 Washington Street, Boston.

- ^"W"

3 fl

■g S"

F-i

•

each
from

.a a

NONOTUCK SILK COMPANY

FLORENCE, HAMPSHIRE GO., MASS.

S. L. HILL, Treas.

MANUFACTURERS OP

Ba@Mi® Twisty

Especially designed for Tailors and Boot and Shoe Manufac-
turers' use. Also, every variety in Black and Colors, of 50
and 100 yards.

A superior Skein Silk is manufactured and put up to suit
the demands of the trade.

Manufactory at Florence with branch at Leeds.

Salesroom, 28 Warren St, New York.

E. W. EATON, Agt.

WILLIAMS MANUFACTDRING COMPANY,

NORTHAMPTON, MASS.

MANUFACTURERS OP

Corn, Clothes, Laundry, Market, Mice,
Cotton anU Fruit Baskets,

Also, Sole Manufacturers of Priest's Patent Fruit Picking Basket.

L. B. Williams, Pres't. H. F. Williams, Treas.

" ii|»f i*»«>HM*jJPW(p«;;f{HW

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so constructed as to avoid intricate and mysterious complica-
tions, one requiring no more mechanical skill and ingenuity to
comprehend and adjust than do the thousand duties of every
day life, yet possessing a great range of effective working — is
the desideratum of the day, and will be appreciated by every
lady, and bring joy to many a house.

A great number of testimonials prove, and personal exami-
nation will only confirm such evidence, that on these tests the
crown of excellence must be awarded to

THE WEED,

MANUFAOTUBED AT HAETFOED, CONN.

GENERAL OFFICE AND SALESROOM :

240 MAIN ST., HARTFORD, CT.

New York Office, 613 Broadway.

Boston Office, 349 Washington Street.

North Western Office, 102 Washington Street,

Chigago, 111.

And for sale in most of the principal towns and cities of the

world.