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 1 2 3 
 
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 4 5 6 
 
HITHER AND THITHER. 
 
\. 
 
 w 
 
HITHER AND THITHER ; 
 
 OR, 
 
 SKETCHES OF TRAVELS ON BOTH SIDES 
 
 OF THE ATLANTIC: 
 
 BY REGINALD FOWLER, ESQ., 
 
 BARRISTER-AT-LAW. 
 
 LONDON : 
 FREDERICK R. DALDY, 10, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 18 5 4. 
 

 K 
 
 
 Printed by 
 
 WaLTRI! MoNCKlON, 
 
 Maidstone. 
 
 p1 M 
 
 107609 
 
•V 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Tm: foll(^\vhig sketches explain tliemsolves — a 
 long- preface is needless. It will be seen that 
 the Author has not ruslicd recklessly into print, 
 but has taken some time to consider whether 
 his Travels have taught him anything not 
 generally known to the world. The book is 
 the result of some experience ; the places 
 described have been frequently visited by him, 
 and he has endeavoured to condense, as much 
 as possible, any information which it may con- 
 tain. All little matters of detail, which usually 
 occupy so much space in works of this nature 
 and convey a very disproportionate amount of 
 useful information, have been studiously omit- 
 ted, and the style, it is hoped, is conversational 
 and easy. 
 
IV. 
 
 Ill explanation of the title, it may be as well 
 to say, that when the sketehea were lirst coin- 
 iiienccd, tlie writer intended to extend them to 
 nuiiiy other countries, but he has now decided 
 uixjii appearin*^ before tlie public in an unam- 
 bitious manner, and to be jiiiided by the result, 
 as to whetlier lie may venture to intriuh^ u])on 
 them again. 
 
 Temple, 
 
 April, 185-4. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 ClIArTER I. 
 
 Madeiua. — Difference in Climate. — Funghal. — Hotels and 
 Boarding Houses. — Religious Differences. — Society. — 
 Portuguese Estimate of English Favours. — Trade of the 
 Island. — Population. — Emigration, — Potatoe Disease — 
 Famine and its Consequences. — Roads. — Palanciuins. — 
 Sledges. — Horses. — Costume of the People. — Excursions. 
 — Scenery. — Climate. 
 
 M 
 
 k 
 
 Chapter H. 
 
 VoyactE to Lisbon. — Appearance of the City. — Public Build- 
 ings. — Custom House. — Amusements. — Belem. — Convent 
 and Church of St. Jerome. — Ecclesiastical Bigging. — 
 Political and Moral State. — Union with Spain. — Appear- 
 ance of Portuguese Ladies. — Dress. — Jewellery. — Vehicles. 
 Internal Communicatiou. — Railways. — Climate. — Earth- 
 quakes. — Cintra. 
 
VI. 
 
 1 ! 
 
 Chapter III. 
 
 GiBiiALTAR. — Entrance of tho Straits. — View over the Bay. — 
 Sunset. — Description of the Town. — Scenery without the 
 Walls. — Alaineila. — Convict Estublishinciit. — South Uar- 
 rucks. — Hosia Ray. — luirnpa Toint.— Wind-mill Ihll 
 Piison. — Public Buildings. — Elders. — Mixed Popidalion — 
 Conunercial S([uaro nnd its Auctions. — Signal Station. 
 — Galleries. — Caves. — Neutral Ground. — Race Course.-^ 
 Burial Ground. — Spanish Lines. — Cainpo. — St. Ko([uc. — 
 Cork-wood. — Algeciras. — Climate. — Society. 
 
 ClIAl'TEU IV. 
 
 Cadiz. — Situation of the City. — External nnd Internal Ap- 
 pearance. — Custom House. — Sipiarcs. — Public Gardens. — 
 Dress. — Peculiar Hats worn by the Clergy. — Teatro Princi- 
 pale. — Bolero. — Discomfort of Spanish Houses in bad 
 Weather. — Xercz. — Sherry Wines. — Port St. Mary's. — 
 San f.uear. — Bonanza. — Steamer to Seville. — Approach to 
 that City.— The " Giralda," and Cathedral.— Holy Week 
 and Ceremonies. — The Alcazar. — Tobacco Factory. — Ex- 
 change. — Cemetery. — Easter Sunday. — Bull Fiuht and 
 Opera. — Museum. — (!aridad. — Appearance of the City and 
 People. — Climate. — Mode of Spending the Day in Andal- 
 usia. — lieligion, — Gambling. — Character of the People. 
 
 Chapter V. 
 
 Malta — Quarantine — Strada Reale — Its Appearance — Val- 
 etta — General Description of the City and Adjacent Country 
 — Church of St. John — History of the Order of St. John — 
 " The Auberges " — The Palace — Sf[uare of San Georgio — 
 The Club—The Carnival— St. Paul's Bay— Island of Gozo 
 ■ — Phoenician Remains — Crops — Trade of Malta — A Few 
 Words on Climate. 
 
 ^ 
 
vrr. 
 
 CrtAPTri! VI. 
 
 FiioM T?()MK TO New Youk — Sundy Hook— The "Narrows" 
 Buy of New York— Description of the City — Cuetle 
 CJnidens and Battery— Broadway — The Park — Union 
 Sqnarc — Bowery — The " Tombs " — Law Courts — Theatres 
 — nowliug Saloons — Oyster SuIooiih — Hotels— Food — Evils 
 of Hotel Lile — Society — Education — Maimers and Appear- 
 unco of the People — Public Buildings — Architecture of 
 Private Dwellings — Servants — Ueligion and Churches — 
 Charitable Institutions — Couuuerco — View from the 
 Battery. 
 
 CiiArTEu VH. 
 
 FiiOM New Youk to Canada — Hudson River — West Point 
 Academy — The Highlands — Kuatskill Mountains — Pine 
 Orchard — Albany - Troy — Eric Itailroad — Negro Cars — 
 Valley of the Mohawk — Little Falls — HeiUimer — Gernum 
 Emigrants — Utica — Homo — Syracuse — Salina — Salj 
 Works — anal to Oswego — Lakes in the State of New 
 York — Lake George — Warlike Events — Drunkenness — 
 Lake Ontario — Entrance of St. Lawrence — .Kingston — 
 Bay of Quints. 
 
 Chapter VHI. 
 Ki.VGSTON TO Niagara — Coburg — Port Hope — Toronto — 
 Appearance of the Town — Yonge Street — Lake Simcoe — 
 Prospects of Farming — Niagara River — Queenstown and 
 Lewistovvn — Brock's Monument — Railroad to the Falls — 
 Clifton Hotel — Ferry — Termination Rock — A few Words 
 on the Falls — Whirlpool — Hot Springs at Cliippewa — The 
 Rapids — Manchester — Buffalo — Lake Erie — High Pressure 
 Steamer — Port Rowan — Deer Shooting — Pine Barrens — 
 Ague — Maple Sugar — Religious Ranting — Victoria — 
 Simcoe — Brantford — Hamilton — Hcturu to Kingston. 
 
: \ 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Bay of Quinte 
 Climate. 
 
 Chapter IX. 
 
 ■ Life in Canada — Society — Scenery — 
 
 Chapter X. 
 
 From Kingston to Montreal — Lake of the Thousand 
 Islands — Scenery of the St. Lawrence — Rapids — Montreal 
 — Society and Manners in that City — Politics — Climate — 
 La Prairie to St. John's — Lake Champlain — Saratoga 
 Springs — Hotels in the States — Concentration of Travel — 
 New York — Its Propperity, and that of the Union. 
 
\\\ 
 
 \l 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MADEIRA. — DIFFERENCE IN CLIMATE. — FUNCJHAL. 
 
 HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES. RELIGIOUS 
 
 "''^^^•WTnPEEENCES. — SOCIETY. PORTUGUESE ESTIMATE 
 
 — »TBsi. TRADE OP THE ISLAND. 
 
 '^'VTATOE DIS- 
 
 EHRATA. 
 
 " iO, 
 
 » 149, 
 •> 176, 
 
 " ^'' „ too 
 
 ^<»-(Uifal rear? t> 
 ' » Provices 
 
 " 40. 
 
 " *P«rsenest. 
 
 18, 
 6, 
 
 " ^Parencss 
 
 \X.\ji^^~ 
 
 therefore seem ««^ .- 
 mere book of travels, unless the places 
 occupy at the moment an unusually prominent 
 position in the public mind. This is so keenly 
 felt by the author of the following desultory 
 sketches, that he at once disavows all idea of 
 the schoolmaster, he can scarcely hope, simul 
 t jucunda et idonea discere vitoe, and will be 
 uite satisfied should he not be considered tire- 
 iome by those whom he fails to instruct. 
 
 A 
 

 \ . 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Chapter IX. 
 
 Bay of Quinte — Life in Canada — Society — Scenery — 
 Climate. 
 
 Chapter X. 
 
 From Kingston to Montreal — Lake of the Thousand 
 Islands — Scenery of the St. Lawrence — Rapids — Montreal 
 — Society and Manners in that City— Politics — Climate — 
 La Prairie to St. John's — Lake Champlain — Saratoga 
 SpriuffS — Hnfoi>» 5- *i- ■ '^' 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 MADEIRA. — DIFFERENCE IN CLIMATE. — FUN9HAL. 
 
 — HOTELS AND BOARDING HOUSES. RELIGIOUS 
 
 DIFFERENCES. SOCIETY. PORTUGUESE ESTIMATE 
 
 OF ENGLISH FAVOURS. TRADE OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 — POPULATION. EMIGRATION. POTATOE DIS- 
 EASE. FAMINE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. ROADS. 
 
 — PALANQUINS. SLEDGES. HORSES. COSTUME 
 
 OF THE PEOPLE. EXCURSIONS. SCENERY. CLI- 
 MATE. 
 
 T^JOW a days almost every one is a cosmopolite; 
 Railways and Steamers have annihilated dis- 
 tance, and Pekin or the Rocky mountains will 
 soon be within the compass of a long vacation 
 tour. Something more than an apology would 
 therefore seem to be due from the writer of a 
 mere book of travels, unless the places described 
 occupy at the moment an unusually prominent 
 position in the public mind. This is so keenly 
 felt by the author of the following desultory 
 sketches, that he at once disavows all idea of 
 the schoolmaster, he can scarcely hope, simul 
 it jucunda et idonea discere vitoe, and will be 
 luite satisfied should he not be considered tire- 
 )me by those whom ho fails to instruct. 
 
mm' 
 
 2 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 I 
 
 
 ',' I 
 
 Like many others the writer sought relief 
 from serious illness by change of scene and 
 climate, and a passage being offered him to 
 Madeira decided upon going thither. 
 
 To an invalid how great a boon is a railway I 
 How sincerely did I congratulate myself as I 
 glided without fatigue over the Great Western 
 line, that stage coaches were things of the past, 
 and like Ancient Britons driven to take refuge 
 in the mountains, for a few hours took me to 
 Plymouth ; and on the 26th day after a very 
 rough and tedious passage, a cloud capped ridge 
 of mountains rose gloomily and abruptly from 
 the blue expanse around. This was the island 
 of Madeira ; the anchor was soon let go in the 
 roadstead off Fun9hal. The change was ma- 
 gical ; no very perceptible alteration in climate 
 had been felt until we left *' Porto Santo" and 
 the rugged abrupt north shore of Madeira behind 
 us, and passing between the rocky islands, called 
 appropriately the " Desertas," and the long point 
 of '* San Lorenzo," which at this part of the 
 island stretches far out to sea, sailed along the 
 famed south side of Madeira, and passing ^'Capo 
 Garajao," vulgarly called the ^' Brazen Head;" 
 saw before us the beautiful cup-shaped hollow 
 in which the town of Fun^hal is built. It was 
 the 7th of December, but the air was soft and 
 mild to a degree utterly unknown, even in the 
 
 on 
 
 usi 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 d 
 
 .» 
 
 [est day of summer in England ; to say that 
 
 jcember was changed into June, would most 
 
 idequately describe it — rather as sour Cape 
 
 ine is to Malmsey Madeira, so was the air of 
 
 iie British Channel to that of Fun9hal. The 
 
 iene was so enchanting that I could not make 
 
 my mind to go below even for the time 
 
 jcessary to lock a portmanteau, but lingered on 
 
 3ck watching the gradually fading landscape, 
 
 the shadows of the setting sun rose slowly up 
 
 le mountain sides, and left the world of Fim- 
 
 lal in darkness. 
 
 A number of gaudily painted flat bottomed 
 boats soon came alongside, and after the usual 
 formalities had been complied with, we were 
 allowed to transfer our persons and baggage to 
 one of them and make for the shore. The 
 usual landing is upon the open and steep beach, 
 id is very cleverly managed — ^the boatmen, 
 lowing from experience that every thii'd or 
 th wave breaks with a heavier swell than its 
 \o or three immediate predecessors and suc- 
 isors, keep the boat poised on the curl of the 
 ^t wave, and when the proper time arrives 
 ip into the water, and heave the boat high 
 dry on the beach ; an accident very rarely 
 purs. The other landing place, at a sort of natu- 
 er called the '* Pontinha," is at times the 
 rse of the two, as there is often a heavy 
 
 A 2 
 
\ 
 
 4 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 1 I 
 
 rolling swell, and the rocks on which you must 
 step are slippery and rough. 
 
 We proceeded at once to the custom-house, 
 where every courtesy was shown, though some 
 articles, such as tobacco, gunpowder, soap, are 
 rigidly excluded being government monopolies, 
 farmed out to private individuals. 
 
 How inimitably has Judge Haliburton, in the 
 "Gentleman at Large," described the keen sensa- 
 tion of pleasure and uncontrollable spirits 
 experienced on landing after a voyage of any 
 length — no felon from a jail, no bird from a cage, 
 no invalid fi'om a sick bed, no liberated imn, 
 can enjoy a greater sense of unaccustomed 
 liberty and freedom. — It is a re-entry into the 
 world, a kind of new birth, a sudden change 
 from bilious listlessness to active enjojrment; 
 the torpid senses are stimulated and aroused to 
 a more than usual activity ; it is no longer mere 
 vegetation, — ^vitality returns, you live. 
 
 The hotels at Fun9hal are not good, the best 
 is near the custom-house ; few, except the pass- 
 ing stranger, stay more than a few hours at 
 either ; those who contemplate a long residence, 
 either take a house if the family is large enough 
 to make it necessary to do so, or else go to one 
 of the many boarding houses with which the 
 place abounds, where for the moderate monthly 
 charge of 45 or 50 dollars, every comfort and 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 you must 
 
 om-houso, 
 
 ugh some 
 
 soap, are 
 
 onopolics, 
 
 on, in the 
 een sensa- 
 le spirits 
 •e of any 
 •m a cage, 
 ited imn, 
 customed 
 into the 
 n change 
 oyment ; 
 oused to 
 ger mere 
 
 he best 
 le pass- 
 lours at 
 sidence, 
 enough 
 to one 
 ich the 
 lonthly 
 3rt and 
 
 many luxuries will be found. Their arrange- 
 ments are generally good, and few complaints 
 are made, even by the most querulous invalid. 
 The great comfort indeed of these houses is one 
 of the strongest recommendations of Fun9hal. 
 To find an English home in such a delightful 
 climate is rare, but it is to be found here in per- 
 fection. Those visitors who come early in the 
 season are usually required to enter into an 
 engagement, to remain in the same house for 
 five months, before they are admitted ; but this 
 rather unpleasant custom is not invariably 
 insisted upon ; I objected to it, and was received 
 without any such condition. The largest board- 
 ing house (HoUway's) is some little distance 
 from the town, and is admirably managed, 
 [liberality and kindheartedness are the charac- 
 teristics of its owners], but the situation is a 
 little trying to those who are great invalids, 
 md a refuge fi:om the discomfort of the hotel, 
 [>ne of the boarding houses in the Town, 
 \re a friend was already domiciled, 
 ^here is but little to attract the eye of a 
 ^nger, within the town of Fun^hal, though in 
 outskirts it is lovely ; an air of sober quiet 
 Iness prevades it : people move about slowly, 
 pongregate in groups to gossip, which are 
 now and then disturbed for a moment by 
 ismg equestrian, or a wuie sledge, drawn 
 

 I 
 
 I I ( 
 
 
 6 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 along the slippery little stones, with which the 
 streets are paved, by small sleek-looking oxen. 
 You look in vain for the life and movement of 
 a large town, and a traveller of any experience 
 takes in at a glance what little there is to observe. 
 The town is straggling, and does not contain a 
 single building worth a moment's attention ; 
 the streets are generally narrow, but clean and 
 well kept ; and the houses stuccoed, with often 
 a little enclosed garden at the side or back ; the 
 best houses invariably possess a tall turret over- 
 looking the sea; and many an hour have I 
 lounged, even in January or February, with all 
 the windows open, in one of them, either reading, 
 or watching through a capital telescope the 
 arrival or departm'c of vessels in the bay. Fun- 
 9}ial possesses three public gardens or alameda's, 
 but only one is at all pretty, and even that 
 derives its charm as a lounge, more from the 
 beautiful peeps of the surrounding amphitheatre 
 of hills, and the roadstead, than from its own 
 intrinsic merits, — such at least was my first 
 impression, while strolling through the town to 
 deliver my letters, and a more intimate know- 
 ledge induced no change. 
 
 Madeira has long been celebrated for the hos- 
 pitality of its merchants ; and although its trade 
 has of late years greatly diminished, they seem 
 still determined to perpetuate their reputation. 
 
MADEIRA. 7 
 
 Indeed nothing can exceed their kindness to those 
 who come in any way authenticated to them, 
 and their residences are, from their size and 
 accommodaton, admirably adapted for the pur- 
 pose of hospitality. 
 
 I am perhaps anticipating, but I may as well 
 here record the feeling of sorrow, with which I 
 found that a religious dispute had cut up into 
 two sections, a small community, previously 
 living together in harmony. Its virulence had 
 a little subsided before I reached the island, 
 but it was still a war cry, and indeed is so at 
 the present moment. No one, not resident in 
 the island, could believe the extent to which 
 this tractarian movement broke up the society 
 of the place, which collapsed and withered like a 
 leaf exposed to an African Simoom. It must be 
 borne in mind, that in all Protestant communities 
 resident abroad, there will always be a consider- 
 able latitude of religious belief, — you are 
 certain to find the presbyterian, the mcthodist, 
 the baptist, and a host of other dissenters. 
 When, therefore, these men unite, and at a very 
 large expense, build for themselves a handsome 
 church, and subscribe a considerable income for 
 the clergyman, sink minor differences, and rally 
 round the common altar of their faith ; come to 
 a church where perhaps they may not hear 
 doctrine to which they can all implicitly sub- 
 
li 
 
 S I I 
 
 8 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 scribo, but which is still a protcstant church, 
 and the only place of worship, except the Roman 
 Catholic, open to them; it would surely seem 
 incumbent upon a clergyman, placed among 
 such a congregation, to yield a little, rather 
 than exalt liis own judgment over that of many 
 of his superiors, even in his own church ; be- 
 come himself the disciple of a schism, and by 
 rigidly carrying out those changes, many of 
 which were mere forms, cause much hatred and 
 ill feeling, and finally drive from his church more 
 than half his congregation. The result is well 
 known, — a controversy between the reverend 
 gentleman, the Bishop of London and Lord Pal- 
 merston, ended in his being removed and a suc- 
 cessor appointed; he then transferred himself 
 and those of his congregation who supported him, 
 to a room fitted-uj) for the puqDose of divine 
 service. The visitors to the island espoused 
 different sides, entering into a dispute with 
 which they had nothing whatever to do. In 
 fact, the wars of the Roses were nothing to this 
 war of Tweedle-dum and Tweedle-dee. 
 
 It may be thought that I here express myself 
 in rather strong language, but I would defy any 
 man who has not learnt to sacrifice the substance 
 for a shadow, not to feel strongly when 
 he contemplated the utter ruin of all that 
 was neighbourly and good, caused by this 
 
MADKIRA. 
 
 
 
 moliiiidioly fitrugglc. It should also bo bomo 
 ill nimd tliat thin very clergyman had, for 
 several years before, officiated in harmony 
 with his congregation; it was not until after 
 a long absence in England, that these miser- 
 able novelties were introduced. The church 
 is a very commodious handsome buikling, 
 capable of holding about 400 people, but possess- 
 ing, by the express stipulation of the Portuguese 
 authorities, neither tower nor bell, nor any other 
 external symbol of an ecclesiastical building; 
 it is situated in a channing garden, filled with 
 the luxuriant and lovely flowers, and plants of 
 this jn'olific clime, and is approached by a 
 delicately-paved avcime, whose walls are over- 
 shadowed by ever-blooming roses and daturas. 
 The feelings too, arc not shocked by approaching 
 the house of God through a melancholy file of 
 the records of death, — the cemetery being at 
 some little distance from the church. 
 
 Yet, in spite of this dispute, and the usual 
 matdmuiking and scandal, consequent on 500 
 po()i)lc being idle together, Fun^hal society was 
 amusing ; excursions up the hills to the Paliero, 
 Capo Garajaii, the Coral, the Serras, across the 
 island to St. Anne's, and by water to the petrified 
 forest ; and a host of lesser trips, to the ''Monte," 
 and the various beautiful Quintas scattered over 
 the sides of the mountains ; varied by a game 
 
V. 
 
 T I 
 
 ! I 
 
 10 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 of bilHardH, cither at the Eiij^HhIi or Portup^al 
 clubH, niako tlie days pasH rapidly. Tlio finoiieHS 
 of tho climate enables nearly every one to enter 
 into society, — you may always leave a crowded 
 room, and without overcoat, stroll with impunity 
 home. The nights are generally lovely, and 
 not gTcatly cooler than the day, while very little 
 rain falls in the town of Fun9hal, though among 
 the hills it constantly rains, while the sun is 
 shining brilliantly on the sea shore. — When the 
 clouds hide the towers of the '* Monte" church, 
 it is certain to rain in the town ; but while they 
 hang (as they often do for days) a little above 
 them, not a drop of moisture will be felt in the val- 
 ley below. To see delicate equestrians, of both 
 sexes, cantering home in every direction, when 
 nature shrouds in mist those pillars of safety, is 
 by no means one of tho least amusing scenes of 
 Fun^hal life. 
 
 Tl' re is but little social intercourse between 
 the visitors and the resident l*ortugcse, — the 
 habits of life and the very usually restricted 
 means of the latter, precluding them from it. 
 The salary of the Governor, and inac^d of all 
 the officials, is miserably small; tl - } i<. »u/i/, 
 therefore, as in other places, throw open 
 their houses. It always seemed to me that 
 Grangers, particidarly the English, were simply 
 rated. The Portuguese cannot but acknow- 
 
 ji.^; 
 
 ■^■' 
 
 'C 
 
 1-1. 
 
MADKIRA . 
 
 11 
 
 >ty, 
 
 18 
 
 , — the 
 ictcd 
 
 om it. 
 of all 
 
 hilfTC tho groat benefits th> ioland 'lorivcs from 
 their stay, and are quite willinp^ to increase their 
 incomes by lettinjr tlieir houses and other moans ; 
 but there is little community of feelin|^ between 
 them and tho floatinp^ pojmltttion of tho Island. 
 \X(>( a^ well as at Lisbon, I was often annoyed 
 by heiii^.; told that England treated Portugal as a 
 d.^{»ondent province, not as an independent 
 kingdom ; every benefit conferred upon tho 
 country, is attributed, whether rightly or 
 wrongly, to a selfisli motive ; — the Portuguese 
 assert that we are compelled to assist them, 
 to maintain the balance of power in the Penin- 
 sula, and because the Port of tho Tagus is 
 necessary for om* fleet ; that wo have no other 
 between tho English channel and Gibraltar. — 
 This is undoubtedly true : tho feeling therefore 
 towards the English nation, is not what wo 
 think it ought to be — no gratitude is felt. Wo 
 have, undoubtedly, at times afforded more than 
 a moral assistance to the government, when tho 
 feelings of tho mass of the Portuguese have been 
 adverse to it, aitd though this can most probably 
 be justified on sound political grounds, it i» 
 not surprising that the Portuguese should chafe a 
 little under the coercion. 
 
 The Foreign merchants and the Portuguese 
 pull tolerably well together ; but by far the 
 largest amount of trade is in the hands of the 
 
 
 1 -f 
 
 '. ■ 
 
^O^SKlXtZ 
 
 1,^1 
 
 I i 
 
 
 12 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 former. America and the West Indies, are at 
 present, the greatest consumers of the better 
 kinds of Madeira wines. I was informed (but do 
 not vouch for the fact) that a considerable trade 
 has sprung up between the Germans and Fun- 
 ^hal ; the very inferior wine being sent to Ger- 
 many, and after receiving some ''doctering," 
 exi)orted thence to England, where it is palmed 
 off, upon the very guUable English palate, as 
 sparkling Hock or Moselle. Were it not for this 
 latter practice, the supi)ly of wine would, I under- 
 stood, be nmch greater than the demand; as it is, 
 the notion is very prevalent that there is more 
 acidity in the ordinary Madeira wine than the 
 ►Spanish wines, and consequently it is but little 
 drank in England ; and the exj^ort from Madeira 
 has now fallen to little more than 8,000 to 9,000 
 pipes per annum. ''Sercial" is the best dry 
 wine; and when fairly treated, and 15 years 
 old, is worth in the island from £60 to £80 a 
 pipe. *'Tinta" is a red wine, and but little 
 exported. "Vertiglio" and "Bual" are good 
 wines, and "Malmsey" is the pride of the Madeira 
 cellar. — This wine is the produce of a few small 
 patches of soil on the south side, — the vine pro- 
 ducing the grape for this wine will only grow 
 ill certain spots. For my own part I nmch 
 prefer the " Sercial," but "Malmsey" I believe 
 conmiands a liigher price in the market ; it is too 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 13 
 
 sweet to drink in any quantity. The wines are 
 ripened artificially by carefully lieatcd cellars, 
 and places called " estufas ;" but I do not profess 
 to be initiated into the worse than Elcusinian 
 mysteries of this trade. 
 
 The island does not grow sufficient com for 
 its own consumption, but imports wheat and rice 
 in large quantities, as well as salted cod-fish (or 
 baccalao) jfrom Newfoundland. A few persons 
 are supported by making feather flowers and 
 pretty baskets; Guava jelly and other sweets 
 are also exported in small quantities ; and the 
 place has of late years become a large dep6t for 
 coals, many steamers calling at FunQlial for the 
 purpose of coaling, — this and the few supplies 
 taken on board by passing vessels, add consider- 
 ably to the trade. The population is much too 
 numerous ; a large emigration has consequently 
 taken place at times ; chiefly to the island of St. 
 Vincent, but the Portuguese government have 
 done all in their power to stop it, by making 
 each emigrant pay a sum of 12 or 15 dollars, 
 (I forget which), before they will allow him to 
 depart. 
 
 The peasants in the mountains often suffer 
 much from want of food, and in the year of tlie 
 potatoe failure, died by hundreds, of starvation, 
 after living for weeks on grass and herbs ; lean 
 and emaciated they crawled to the door-steps of 
 
 
14 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 FunQlial, and fainted for want of food. A sub- 
 scription was after some time raised for the poor 
 wretches, and a large quantity of rice distributed, 
 but the misery was on too extensive a scale to 
 be entirely relieved. The stoical apathy, with 
 which the Portuguese government and inhabi- 
 tants of Fun^hal, saw their poorer countrymen 
 endure the horrors of famine, gives a very 
 unfavourable notion of their character ; the sole 
 effort made for their relief, originated with, and 
 was almost entirely supported by, the foreign 
 merchants and strangers. 
 
 The failure of the potatoe, at the same time, 
 and from the same disease, on this little island, 
 hundreds of miles from any other land, and 
 where the root is comparatively of recent intro- 
 duction, has always appeared to me conclusive 
 in favour of the theory that the disease, be it 
 what it may, was caused by atmospheric blight, 
 and has nothing to do with the supposed ex- 
 haustion, by long cropping, of the healthy 
 reproducing power of this vegetable. 
 
 The peasantry of both sexes are swarthy and 
 strong, but are subject to a disease of the skin 
 arising doubtless from poverty of blood. They 
 are very hard working and industrious, and 
 stagger down from the mountains bearing tre- 
 mendous loads of wood, and other heavy supplies 
 for the more luxurious inhabitants of Fun^hal. 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 15 
 
 The fatigue of moving about in Madeira is 
 very great, for there is hardly an inch of level 
 ground (except the large tracts called the Serras) 
 in the whole island. The roads are all very 
 narrow, generally between high stones walls, 
 over-grown with flowering creepers and gera- 
 niums, are fearfully hot when the sun is high, 
 and present but few peeps of the charming 
 scenery which a step or two on either side into 
 the Vineyards will always afford. These roads 
 are paved with little thin stones, and become 
 from constant friction exceedingly slippery : — 
 they are at all times steep, and in some places 
 so much so, as to make it wonderful that any 
 animal carrying a load can either ascend or 
 descend them in safety. The tugging jerking 
 motion of the poor beasts in ascending is most 
 unpleasant, and some experience of the extreme 
 sure footedness of the horses (if allowed to have 
 their head) is requisite before the rider can con- 
 quer a feeling of dread, while riding down these 
 mountain paths. These roads are indeed 
 marvels of perseverance and labour, but at the 
 same time striking illustrations of an entire 
 j ignorance of road engineering. They cannot 
 of com-se be traversed by any kind of vehicle 
 [on wheels, there are therefore no carriages, — 
 [little sledges and palanquins are the substitute, 
 'he palannuins are of two kinds, one a sort of 
 
 
 
I 
 
 
 i! 
 
 5 I I 
 
 u\ 
 
 \. 
 
 16 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 long chair or cradle, in which tliore is room for ^ 
 a person to sit without cramping the legs, slung 
 on a pole by strong wires, (there are curtains 
 attached which may be drawn if required,) two 
 men carry this, one at each end of the pole ; 
 the motion is unpleasant, and will often cause 
 the same nausea as sea sickness. The other 
 and pleasanter kind is simply a hammock slung 
 likewise from the same kind of pole, and borne 
 on the shoulders of two men ; in this the travel- 
 ler lies at full length, and at first is not insen- 
 sible to the very awkward probability of a 
 broken head or back, should a false step on the 
 part of the bearers drop him to the ground. In 
 one of those machines you are quite helpless, 
 but they are a lazy luxurious kind of convey- 
 ance, suited to the habits of the people and the 
 climate. The ladies appear to enjoy them 
 greatly. 
 
 The sledges are almost always drawn by very 
 small, but docile oxen. Every body at Madeira 
 rides, and numerous livery stable-keepers supply 
 strangers with horses, good enough for the 
 country, at prices varying from 20 to 30 dollars 
 a month. A boy or man (unless forbidden) al- 
 ways accompanies the horse, and is on terms 
 of such intimate good fellowship with the animal, 
 that he always clings to the tail in mounting 
 the steep parts of the road. 
 
 Uil^ 
 
\ 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 17 
 
 Tlio activity, good humour, and apparent 
 [insensibility to all fatigue of these <* buroqueros" 
 is one of the marvels of the island, and their 
 powers are often severely tried by a party of 
 ! boisterous high-spirited midshipmen, off for a 
 gallop to the " Corral." These lads have usually 
 no notion that a horse has any other pace than 
 a gallop ; and no matter what the nature of the 
 ground, a gallop they must have ; on such roads 
 as, those of Madeira, it is little short of a miracle 
 that any such party ever returns without many 
 broken bones or heads. 
 
 A little cap worn by the men, tapering to a 
 long stiff point, standing rigidly erect from it, 
 is almost the only great peculiarity in the 
 costume of the peasantry ; I do not know what 
 to compare it to, unless it be an old-fashioned 
 wine strainer. The cap covers but a small part of 
 the head, and, except the little straw hats worn at 
 Spezzia and its neighbourhood, is the most sin- 
 gular and at the same time inefficient head-dress 
 I have ever seen. 
 
 There is a good deal of crime in Madeira, and 
 its perpetrators constantly manage to evade 
 I punishment, by taking refuge in the wild dis- 
 : tricts of the mountains. The military are the 
 I police, and are worse than inefficient. The gaol 
 [is in the heart of the town, with windows almost 
 level with the ground, looking into tlie streets, 
 
 I I 
 
 B 
 
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 I 
 
 II 
 
 I I ' 
 
 I in 
 
 ■r- ■y./' 
 
 K 
 
 18 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 protected simply by iron bars ; — the prisoners 
 beg very persevcringly from the passers-by. It 
 is said that they often remain incarcerated for 
 years, without its being thought necessary to 
 go through the empty form of a trial, — ^their 
 guilt is, I suppose, considered as established by 
 the prima facie case against them. To an 
 Englishman this seems rather unjust, but the 
 Portuguese probably see no harm in it ; people 
 differ. 
 
 The religion of the island is what the Roman 
 Catholic creed usually is, where the people are 
 grossly ignorant ; but the clergy are in very bad 
 odour, and have a most indifferent reputation 
 for morality. I saw here, what I have never 
 seen elsewhere, carried to the same extent, — 
 the events of our Saviour's life travestied by 
 costumed processions through the streets. 
 Many persevering, and perhaps injudicious 
 attempts have been made, on the part of the 
 Protestants, to proselytize, but I believe they 
 have not been very successful. 
 
 There were no public amusements at Fun9hal 
 during my stay, — no concerts, no theatre or 
 opera ; yet the Madeiranese are musical, and few i 
 are the hours, either of the day or night, in 
 which the pleasing sound of a peculiarly small 
 guitar, does not salute the ears of the passers by 
 in the streets. The skill with which it is played 
 
 •'■*« 
 
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 yi^ 
 
 lit 
 
 AlflH 
 
 V 
 
 ''^S^ 
 
 Ip*^ 
 
 '-'''(vH 
 
 lla 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 19 
 
 is surprising; and although the body of the 
 I instrument is not more than twice the size of the 
 IpaLn of the hand, it fills most completely the 
 I largest reception room in Fun9lial. The absence 
 of all the usual resources of idle men, is severely 
 felt by most, after a lengthened stay. To make 
 excursions to the higher parts of the island, is 
 [not prudent during the winter months, — the 
 change in the climate is too great ; about the 
 [month of May they may be undertaken with 
 [safety. ^' Porto Santo" must be visited in an 
 [open native boat, and will not repay either the 
 trouble or the risk. The population are half 
 naked barbarians ; the governor is a shoe- 
 maker. The island lies about twenty miles 
 [north of Madeira. The other islands, which 
 [form the group, are mere rocky deserts. 
 Parties sometimes visit them for the purpose of 
 [shooting the rabbits, with which they abound. 
 Nothing is more difficult to describe than 
 [scenery, but this island has such marked gene- 
 [ral characteristics, that it will be perhaps more 
 jasy to give an idea of it, than is generally the 
 3ase. In shape it is like a lozenge, and about 
 1:5 miles long and about 15 wide at the broadest 
 )art ; at either end it tapers almost to a point. 
 [ts volcanic origin is quite apparent, even to the 
 mscientific observer. The whole of the north 
 
 f shore and a large part of the south is very ab- 
 " B 2 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 'W 
 
 Lt 
 
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 in 
 
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 ml i\ 
 
 m 
 
 111 
 
 '•ill 
 
 'I I 
 
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 20 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 rupt und mountaiiious, seamed with deep cliasms 
 and gorges, up which the eye travels until lost 
 in the curling clouds and mists which almost 
 always envelope its highest peaks. " Pico 
 Ruivo," attains a height of nearly 6,000 feet, 
 and there are several other peaks of almost equal 
 altitude. When therefore the small size of the 
 island is conyidered, it will be at once seen that 
 its surface must bo most broken and irregular ; 
 it is in fact one largo mountain with a group of 
 lesser satellites, sometimes meeting the sea in 
 gigantic perpendicular cliffs 1,500 or 2,000 feet 
 high, and at others as at Fun^hal, extending 
 tlicir less rugged spurs in gradually descending- 
 slopes. Torrents without number descend the 
 ravines, which radiate from the centre to the sea 
 in all directions; these, arc at times from the 
 nature of their sources much swollen, but in 
 general tumble noisily but harmlessly over theii' 
 stony beds, and serve to supply the washer- 
 women, who may be seen in crowds kneeling 
 at their sides, beating most unmercifully on the 
 polished stones, the linen entrusted to their 
 charge. No shirt is proof against a six months' 
 washing campaign in Madeira ; the first fight 
 invariably kills every button, and a few more 
 literally batter it to pieces. 
 
 The scenery is Swiss in its wildneas without 
 the snow and glaciers. Some of the gorges are 
 
 i 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 21 
 
 not inferior in cliaractor to the Tetc Noir, equally 
 abrupt, black, forbidding and savage ; indeed I 
 doubt whotlier there be anywhere a chasm of 
 such startling sublimity as the '^ Corral." This 
 [chasm is not more than half-a-mile wide, but 
 4,000 feet deep, and enclosed on all sides by a 
 i range of stupendous mountain precipices. 
 
 With the excei)tion of the two rather exten- 
 sive *'Serras," which lie at a great elevation from 
 the sea, and are covered with tangled under- 
 wood, ferns, and chesnut trees, there is no level 
 ground ; all is mountain ridge and ravine. The 
 most hardy tropical plants, the date, the banana, 
 Indian corn, coffee, sugar cane, the pomegranate, 
 the olive, and fig, flourish near the sea level, the 
 vine stretches rather higher ; next is the region 
 of the grain and fruits of Europe ; and above, 
 Imgo forests of chesnut trees cover the sides of 
 the mountains almost to their summits. The 
 vines are trained on open trellis-work supported 
 by poles about 6 feet liigh, and stretch in long 
 ledges or tiers one above the other in every part 
 where it is possible to plant them. The amphi- 
 theatre of Fun9hal is an exception in cliaracter 
 to the rest of the island, but even here the land 
 irises almost immediately from the sea level. 
 ,^' During the four months of December, Jan- 
 |uary, February, and March, the average tem- 
 1 perature in the shade will be from 58 to 65, but 
 
I ! 
 
 f^! 
 
 ! "HI 
 
 22 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 ill 
 
 '! ■ 
 
 ilii I 
 
 I 
 
 this will bo higher or lower according to tho 
 situation of the house — if exposed to the cold 
 currents of air from the ravines, the thermom- 
 eter will vary as much as 20 degrees ; some care 
 is therefore necessary in selecting a residence. 
 There is one infallibl^^' test )jy which an invalid 
 may know, whether the usual climate here is 
 suited to his complaint. If the wind called 
 *'L'Este" agrees with him, the sooner hn leaves 
 the better; those who are really derivii'^^ bene- 
 fit from the climate, feel utterly miserable while 
 this wind prevails. The resident medical men 
 will not admit that it is possible to be injured 
 by the mild, unchangeable climate of Fun9hal ; 
 but all experience proves the contrary. No gene- 
 ral rule can be laid down ; but if the invalid 
 feels conscious that in his case it is so, let me 
 caution him against being induced to remain by 
 any representation whatever ; should the climate 
 really agree with him, it is advisable to remain 
 over one summer, which is passed in the moun- 
 tains, where at night the air is pleasantly cool. 
 The softness of the air in this island is really 
 surprising, where therefore all that is required 
 is to keep the patient free from any irritating 
 cause ; where the delicacy is simply local, and 
 not accompanied by much physical weakness, 
 this climate will be beneficial ; but I am firmly 
 impressed with the opinion, that when the whole 
 
 il 
 
 11 "ij 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 28 
 
 some caro 
 
 ratom is debilitated : where want of tone gives 
 II o2)portunity for this dreadful disease, to 
 isten its fangs on the lungs, where many of the 
 mal symptoms of the disease are apparent, but 
 rhich arise chiefly, if not entirely from a 
 folaxod system and feeble vis vitoe ; this place 
 411 be deadly in its consequences. The wea- 
 ther in the summer months, is not so distress- 
 ingly hot, as the mildness of the winter would 
 |cad you to expect j on the liill« it is quite 
 jndurable. 
 
24 
 
 LIHHON. 
 
 
 i 
 
 d 
 
 n 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 VOYAGE TO LIS150N.— ArrEARANCK of tiik 
 CITY. — rimijc nuiLDiNos. — custom IIOUHE. — 
 
 AMUSEMENTS. BELEM. CONVENT AND CHURCH 
 
 OF ST. JEROME. ECCLESIASTICAL BEGGING. — 
 
 POLITICAL AND MORAL STATE. — UNION WITH 
 
 SPAIN. APPILVRANCE OF PORTUGUESE LADIES. — 
 
 DRESS. JEWELLERY. VEHICLES. INTERNAL 
 
 COMMMUNICATION. — RAILWAYS. — CLIMATE. — 
 EARTHQUAKES. CINTRA. 
 
 T ITERALLY wearied with everlasting sun- 
 shine, and an unchanging climate, I took my 
 passage, with about twenty others, in a Lisbon 
 schooner, called the "Zargo;" she was about 
 120 tons burthen, and her accommodation in- 
 different ; but her little captain was all mirth 
 and liberality, always humming, night and day, 
 the same monotonous tune. No fault could be 
 found with our treatment, for not only coffee, but 
 '* Cura9oa " or '* Maraschino " were forthcoming 
 for those who rose early enough to welcome the 
 sun, after his evening dive, and meal after 
 meal, well (looked, and various, followed each 
 other in rapid succession during the day. My 
 cabin was in the round house on deck, and dry 
 
 w; ;w> « n MM wfuwi 
 
LISBON. 
 
 25 
 
 und cnol, but tlic pfiHWiu^crH btslow, nmiiy of 
 whom never ujipeared until we were olF the bur 
 at the mouth (»t the I'uffUH, must hiive Huffered 
 Hoverely. I recollect one rather Htriking 
 arrangement ; the men and women occupied 
 the name cabin, and this for six days and niglits : 
 conunont is unneccHsary. 
 
 It was evening as we entered the Tagus ; the 
 bold sharp peaks of Cintra pierced the sky to 
 the left, the river swarmed with craft of all sizes ; 
 most singular looking boats, a sort of cross 
 between an old Roman galley and a New Zea- 
 land canoe, slid quickly through the water under 
 the influence of the breeze. To the right, rose 
 the lofty and picturesque bank of the river, 
 studded with villages glowing in the rays of the 
 setting sun ; and to the left, stretched far away, 
 the long line ofwhite houses, rising tier above tier, 
 here and there overtopped by some huge palace 
 or towering dome. The little white tower of 
 *'Belem," a perfect gem in its way, stands ob- 
 trusively in the stream ; proud of its beauty, it 
 courts observation* : near it is the convent and 
 chapel of St. Jerome, the most interesting build- 
 ing in Lisbon. 
 
 Few cities look so imjjosing as the capital 
 of Portugal, which is situated, like old Rome, 
 
 * This tower has been restored in the most costly manner, 
 by the present King, who possesses a strong architectural 
 
 taste. 
 
 U.-A-i'i 
 
H 
 
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 J". ! ll'l 
 
 HI 
 
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 5 I ' II 
 
 iMiil! 
 
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 ilfl 
 
 Ml!' 
 
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 |i:l':':l 
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 'liii^ 
 
 ll" !i ' 
 
 26 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 on seven gently swelling hills, and varies in 
 width, from a mere lino of houses to a mile and 
 a half; its length is about seven miles, but in 
 this large area is contained a scanty population, 
 not more, according to the prevailing opinion, 
 than 230,000 people. No census has been taken, 
 though several attempts have been made to do so. 
 From the river, which is a splendid stream, 
 the city looks its best, offering to the eye of the 
 traveller, handsome wide streets and colonnaded 
 squares; yet is it an architectui'al '' Pecksniff," 
 a whitened sepulchre. If Washington be well 
 described as a city of " magnificent distances," 
 Lisbon may, with equal truth, be called one of 
 magnificent '* conceptions." The finest streets 
 and squares were designed by the Marquis de 
 Pombal, whose ambitious taste outstripped the 
 resources of his country, even in his own time. 
 Like the proprietor of many an Irish estate, he 
 omitted to calculate his revenue, when he con- 
 sulted his architect, and has in consequence 
 hampered the Lisbonese with so large and costly 
 a home, that they have never been able, either 
 to complete it or occupy it ; and the result is 
 but too apparent, in mere shells of houses, 
 unfinished gateways, public buildings half un- 
 roofed, and deserted thougli striking *' plazas." 
 As however, a century ago, Portugal was 
 thriving and wealthy, and held a comjiarativcly 
 
 ii:'^ 
 
LISBON. 
 
 27 
 
 high position among European nations, that 
 which to-day soema to have been reckless 
 extravagance, might then have appeared justifi- 
 able. Formerly much wealth came to Lisbon 
 from the " Brazils," but since the separation of 
 that Empire from Portugal, that source of 
 revenue has much diminished; and the slave 
 trade is almost annihilated since the invention 
 of steamers, though a few vessels are still built 
 in the villages on the banks of the Tagus, for 
 that infamous traffic. Crippled therefore in two 
 of the most profitable branches of its trade, and 
 the country in a continual state of political fer- 
 ment, what hope is there that the conceptions 
 of the Marquis de Pombal will be fiilly realized, 
 — ^that his bleaching skeletons will ever be in- 
 stinct with life ? 
 
 We anchored off the custom-house, and close 
 to the still unfinished *' black horse" square, 
 which is undoubtedly the finest in Lisbon, and 
 where are situated, the municipal chamber, the 
 treasury, the offices of the minister of justice, 
 finance, and foreign affairs, the war and marine 
 departments, and the tribunal of commerce. 
 The exchange is a very commodious building, 
 and the custom-house one of the largest and 
 finest in Europe, calculated in fact for a trade 
 ten times as large as the present commerce of 
 Lisbon, and quite as troublesome as it is gigantic. 
 
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 il ;' 
 
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 28 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 The traveller must be meek and long suffering 
 indeed, if his temper be not ruffled for a week, 
 by the solemn, tedious, vexatious, and harassing 
 formalities through which he is made to pass. 
 Long experience has familiarized the writer 
 with almost every custom-house in Europe, and 
 he has no hesitation in saying, that few, if any, 
 equal that of Lisbon, for slow torture, and utter 
 disregard for the self-respect of those who pass 
 through it. Wliy should a man's body be stroked 
 down, like that of a convict entering a hulk ? 
 Wliy should his welcome be heralded by any 
 such personal indignity ? Open a trunk or car- 
 pet bag if you like, but do not treat a stranger 
 as a felon, because it is jast possible, he may 
 have more than four cigars, or a cake of soap in 
 his pocket. A poor invalid was brought ashore, 
 from the ship, on a couch ; still these " Harpies " 
 crowded round his bed, thrust their hands under 
 the blankets, hunting for cigars ! an act, it must 
 be admitted, of almost unparalelled cruelty. 
 Being a high-spirited man, the indignity, the 
 noise and confusion, brought his disease to an 
 early termination ; the next morning he died, 
 and we buried him in the Protestant cemetery, 
 near the tomb of " Fielding." My bed-room, 
 at the Braganza, was exactly opposite his, and 
 it wHl be difficult for me to forget my horror 
 at being suddenly awoke, by tlic screams and 
 
 ''nL 
 
\ 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 2f) 
 
 lioart-rcnding woo, of his young and pretty wife. 
 On board she had been the admiration of all ; 
 never for a moment, day or^niglit, did she leave 
 his cabin ; a chair at the door was her sole 
 resting-place ; patient, uncomplaining, but sad. 
 The Braganza hotel is withoiit doubt the best 
 in Lisbon, and either from the roof which is flat, 
 or from the balconies in front, the view is 
 most extensive. The best part of the City as 
 far as Belem lies before you ; the river expand- 
 ing almost to a lake and thickly studded with 
 merchantmen and men of war, the imposing- 
 banks and the high hills in the interior, the 
 constantly varying effects of light and shade 
 over the immense space on which the eye rests, 
 all combine to produce a scene rarely equal- 
 led ; and were a travellers opinion of this city to 
 be based on this view alone, it would be most 
 erroneous ; let him go to the top of the aque- 
 duct, Nossa Senora do Monte, or the "Estrella," 
 and in every direction evident signs will ap- 
 pear of a city wli^cli has outgrown its resources, 
 and whose palmy days are gone by. Long 
 straggling suburbs half fill up the valleys, and 
 crooked, narrow, and filthy streets, cover the 
 sides of the hills, while brown-looking decaying 
 convents often crown their summits ; ruins and 
 rubbish alternate with lovely gardens, and build- 
 ings, which would have done credit to the age 
 
mmmmmmm 
 
 ^ 
 
 30 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 of Augustus, rise obstrusivcly prominent from 
 the midst of dirt and debris of all kinds. It is 
 indeed a city of contrasts, a very fair represent- 
 ation of the character of its inhabitants. 
 
 Lisbon is a dull city, and contains but little 
 which will detain a traveller long. The aque- 
 duct, the Queen's Palace of the "Necessidades," 
 and the "Ajuda" half finished and almost entirely 
 unfurnished, the chapel and crnvent of "St. 
 Jerome," at Belem, the excellent mosaics in 
 the church of "St. Roque," a stroll or two through 
 the best parts of the town, not omitting the 
 public gardens, and the very excellent and amus- 
 ing markets, will suffice. The public amusements 
 are few, the opera is cheap but very indifferent, 
 and on the rising of the curtain, an odour per- 
 vaded the whole house which to a sense not yet 
 drilled into accordance with the Lusitanian 
 taste, was most unpleasant. The royal family 
 were on several occasions present, but the loyal 
 demonstrations were very feeble ; there was no 
 enthusiasm, no spirit evinced; conventional 
 duty and respect, but that was all. The theatre 
 is handsome, but very badly lighted. The fair 
 frequenters of our theatres in England, would 
 rebel most heartily against such a shroud to 
 their toilettes. 
 
 A lovely afternoon, and a favorable tide, 
 tempted mc to take a boat from the '^^ Caes 
 
 lit 
 
LISBON. 
 
 31 
 
 Sodre," for Bolcm; we drifted quickly down 
 the stream, passing numerous gaily painted 
 floating baths, and a good many small craft, 
 anchored in the stream ; while, lower down, a 
 small squadron of British men of war, were 
 'beating' out to sea. The great number of 
 English names on the wharves, and inscriptions 
 in the same language, nearly all of which had 
 reference to shipping and its various require- 
 ments, showed conclusively how large a pro- 
 portion of the commerce was in English hands ; 
 and long lines of stores, shut up and rapidly 
 hastening to decay, told the same lesson of 
 former prosperity, and present stagnation, 
 everywhere to be read in Lisbon. 
 
 We landed at a good stone pier, not far from 
 the convent and church of St. Jerome, which 
 merit a rather detailed description ; they were 
 commenced by Emmanuel the Great, in 1499, 
 and completed by his son. From the spot m 
 which they stand, Vasco di Gama embarked on 
 his memorable voyage of discovery, round the 
 Cape of Good Hope ; and here ho offered up 
 prayer to the Almighty, for success and a blessing 
 on his enterprise. 
 
 The architecture is partly Moorish, partly 
 Norman Gothic; the entrance is magnificent, 
 and the interior charmingly beautiful. The 
 pillafs supporting the roof arc of white marble 
 
.^ -mmnm 
 
 ' I \§ 
 
 II 
 
 'I 
 
 II 
 
 
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 ' 11:1 
 
 i!!l ,1 
 
 i I i rii :!!i 
 
 ^^ 
 
 !,•; i' I ! 
 
 m% 
 
 irM 
 
 m 
 
 K 
 
 32 
 
 LISllON. 
 
 vory Hglit and elegant, and in the afternoon 
 the sun-shine effects in various parts of the buil- 
 ding are exquisite. Let the visitor not forget 
 to examine the pulpits which are most elaborate, 
 and to bribe the verger to shew the embalmed 
 bodies of the king and his wife which 
 are behind the grand altar. The faces are still 
 perfect though 200 years have elapsed since the 
 day of their death. The cloisters are very fine, 
 surrounding a court adorned with fountains and 
 grass plots. Along each side of this square runs 
 a light and spacious colonnade, paved with 
 marble and teeming with beautiful tracery, 
 surrounded by ornamented windows. Unhap- 
 pily decay is here at work, and ere long much 
 of this beautiful building will be destroyed, 
 unless both money and care are expended upon 
 it, — things scarcely to be looked for in the pre- 
 sent state of affairs here. The convent is now 
 used as an asylum for deaf, dumb, and blind 
 children, and is pretty well attended to. 
 
 In my walk home from Belem, I followed for 
 some distance the strains of a bag pipe, and on 
 overtaking the player, found that he was atten- 
 ded by a bare-headed man in a red cloak, who 
 carried a scarlet flag, with a dove engraved upon 
 it. This flag was thrust by him into every open 
 doorway or shop, whose occupants immediately 
 uncovered, kissed the dove, and at the same 
 
 i "':it 
 
 
LISBON. 
 
 33 
 
 time put into the bag carried by the standard 
 bearer, one or more pieces of money, chiefly 
 copper. No **gallego" or other poor person 
 met by the insatiable ecclesiastical beggar could 
 escape; a small part of his hardly-earned re- 
 ceipts was sure to be demanded and given. Let 
 us hope that the money thus extorted, was at 
 least expended well. 1* iny persons closed their 
 doors before the bagpipe reached their dwellings, 
 and thus avoided a demand,which otherwise they 
 would probably not have been able to refuse. 
 Politics have of late years run very high in 
 Lisbon, but it seemed to me that they took a 
 decidedly personal turn, that the quarrel was 
 more with men than measures, though since the 
 time of Don Pedro, they have had half-a-dozen 
 constitutions. Circumstances took me a good 
 deal into the society of several members of tlie 
 Portuguese legislature, and the opinion I formed 
 of them was, that they were too impulsive to be 
 practical, and mcde better speeches than acts of 
 parliament. It is a matter of notoriety that the 
 present constitution does not work well. Per- 
 liaps it would not be uncharitable or untrue to 
 say, that a l-ttle more personal honesty and a 
 better education among the people would make 
 it work better. Under the present constitution 
 both chambers, are elective. The Queen* was 
 
 * It is scarcely necessary to observe, that the Queen of 
 Portugal died in 1853. q 
 
- '"^" 
 
 ! I'':;i 
 
 .'U 
 
 LISHOX. 
 
 \t 
 
 ! 
 
 MM' I 
 
 M I in 
 
 pcrsoiifilly luipopular, aiul tliis is almost the iio- 
 ccssary consequence of tlic state of those over 
 wlioni she reigns; she being blamed for their 
 faults; though probably her Brazilian education 
 was not calculated to train her well in the 
 science of governing a nation, with some aspi- 
 rations after freedom, though not y(?t sufficiently 
 alive to the proper meaning of the word : — as it 
 is, a semi-revolutionary state seems a chronic 
 disease in Portugal. The Government is com- 
 pletely impoverished, and as the salaries of all 
 official persons are miserably small and always 
 in arrear, they numage, by taking a toll out of 
 the mone}' which passes through their hands, to 
 solve that very difficult arithmetical problem, of 
 "how to si)end half-a-crown out of a shilling 
 a day," — and as custom that arbiter morum 
 sanctions this, there is no disgrace attached to 
 it. Every department of the public service of 
 course suffers ; the ships of war lie rotting in the 
 bay, and the very soldiers bog of the passing 
 stranger, while dressed in the uniform of their 
 corps ; at least they have done so of me on many 
 occasions. Who could help sighing over a coun- 
 try which by nature is so higlily favoured in 
 soil, clinuite, and geographical position, but 
 which so utterly neglects the advantages bes- 
 towed upon it by providence '? Though perhaps 
 it is wrong, as some witty person lias said, to 
 
 !i':i!j ' 
 
 •i-i' 
 
 ■Mli 
 
LIHIJON. 
 
 35 
 
 cxpoct much {j^ood fnnn a i' »imtry, wlioro the 
 (^iioou lives in tlic Palace of Noces.sity (Necessi- 
 (ladcs), the prime minister in the Travessa de 
 Ladrones, or tlieives lane, and the height of Joys, 
 belon^'H exclusively to the dead.* 
 
 There is a strong feeling- among the people, 
 tliat a union with Spain would politically be 
 desirable, and they imagine should this ever 
 take place, that Lisbon would then become the 
 Cai)ital of the United Kingdom, instead of 
 ]\fadrid, which is known to have no advantage, 
 except a central position. The Spaniards and 
 Portuguese it is true hate each otlun* most cor- 
 dially, but feelings generally give way to inter- 
 est, and several works have lately been j)ublished 
 in Lisbon advocating the union, which have been 
 extensively read and approved. In a financial 
 point of view the gain would be enornious. The 
 Lisbonese inuigine that England would throw 
 obstacles in the way, but Ihave no doubt they are 
 mistaken ; for unless Portugal modifies her j^re- 
 scnt tariff, it would not be worth while for Eng- 
 land to interfere, and this there is no sign of it at 
 present. 
 
 1 am really sorry that I cannot compliment 
 tlie ladies of Lisbon, on so sensitive a subject as 
 tlieir personal appearance, but in truth they arc 
 
 *The principal cemetery of the Town is CiiUed the Alto dos 
 PJazercs or "Height of Joys." 
 
 V 2 
 
N 
 
 I ' 
 
 'illli 
 
 i'lli 
 
 ! i"i 
 
 I; 1,1 'ih- 
 
 I! I iHi I 
 
 !! i 
 
 i 
 
 ! P! 
 
 III 
 
 ' l! ill: 
 
 l!il 
 
 i ! ! 
 
 
 111 
 
 
 
 liC) 
 
 UHHON. 
 
 far from good-looking ; tlunr com])lcxion8 arc 
 sallow, the features coarse, and the figure short 
 and often deformed ; they have (I am half afraid 
 to say it, but it is true) the features of the negro 
 without the woolly hair. The ugliness is so 
 general that no difference of opinion can exist 
 about it ; the stranger may walk from one end 
 of Lisbon to the other without seeing one pretty 
 face, and should there be in a ball room or theatre, 
 an exception, enquiry will show her to be no 
 Portuguese. They do not walk so well as the 
 Spaniards; often have I smiled at a little 
 humpty dumpty Portuguese lady covered with 
 lace, and bedizened with jewels, walking to 
 church on a " Festa," attended by her maid, — 
 every action indicating a conciousness that she 
 isengrande tenue, that the slatternly negligence 
 of home, is exchanged for the elaborate display, 
 without which she would scorn to appear in 
 public. Almost all classes are in possessson of 
 valuable ornaments, and great must be the per- 
 sonal privation before they can be induced to 
 part with them. Whole streets called ''gold 
 street" and ''silver street," are almost entirely 
 occupied by jewellers' shops. The men arc 
 equally fond of massive rings, chains, and studs. 
 The dress is modelled after the latest Paris 
 fashion ; none but the lowest orders wear a 
 national costume, which consists among the 
 
LisnoN. 
 
 ii7 
 
 woiucMi of ii largo cloak of cloth (generally brown) 
 and a white handkerchief thrown over the head 
 and pinned under the chin, — clean-looking and 
 appropriate. The men wear a broad high peaked 
 hat, or flat *' Hombrero," a waistcoat of gaudy 
 colours, knee breeches or trousers, bound round 
 tlie waist by a scarlet sash, with a jacket richly 
 ornamented with buttons and filagree work. 
 One of the chief characteristics of the population 
 is its decidedly African character ; this is visi- 
 ble, not only in the features, but in the whole 
 formation of the body. The first glance at the 
 boatmen, who crowd around the vessel, as 
 soon as she drops her anchor, will satisfy the 
 traveller of this; and the more intimate his 
 knowledge of the people, the more will his first 
 impression be confirmed ; he will meet too, more 
 " black" faces in the streets, than are to be seen 
 in any capital of Europe, except Constantinople. 
 For this there are very sufficient reasons ; — a 
 century or two ago, the intercourse of the 
 Portuguese, with the coast of Africa, was 
 greater than that of any other nation; the 
 possession of the Brazils brought them into con- 
 stant contact with a large negro population, and 
 it is not libelling them to say that they have 
 been the most inveterate slave dealers in the 
 world. How could they hope ander such cir- 
 cumstances, to preserve their purity of race ? 
 
ns 
 
 MsnoN. 
 
 
 I I 
 
 iliil 
 
 >' i Mill !l I 
 
 ti 
 
 Tho (iiK^st pnrtof'tlic i)o|)tiliiti()ii ofLislum, 
 nro not Portu^iK'sc, l)ut Northcn Spiniianls — 
 Hcveml tliousands of wlioin nro tlie liowors of 
 wood and dniwt'r.s of water in tluH city. Kvory 
 oni' has lunird of tlu; " ^allc^^'o," and ]iv \vlio 
 Hko tlio writer lias travc^lled nuieli l)y tlie ])enin- 
 Hidar steanKMs will luive been brouj^ht into 
 contact with them, nuich more often than is 
 a<4T<Mnil)l(». TUo rottu'ii of thest; people to their 
 native country at Vi^'o, with lni<»e chests of 
 clothes, and the saA'in^^s of many years toil 
 in a forei<in hind, is an interesting' sight. 
 Ihit it nnist be admitted that t!u y are not 
 pleasant companions at sea in rough weather, 
 '^i'ho snmoth water of the bay of Vigo, suits 
 them better. 
 
 The vehicles of all classes in Lisbon are very 
 old-fashoncd and admirably adapted to stinmlate 
 peristaltic action. A few onniibuscs have of late 
 been introduced, and as they are cheaper than 
 the "Calessc" are tolerably well tilled, but that 
 medi;rval affair the old " calesse" jolting along 
 and almost rcfpiirlng a laddc r to numnt into it, 
 is still the favourite; the carts arc quite curiosi- 
 ties; the wheels are solid circles of wood without 
 sj)okes, precisely similar to those used by the 
 Kgyptians. The wheel is iix(^d tight to the 
 jixle and turns with it. not (m it, making a most 
 horrilde grating noise. I*eoj)le are in most 
 
 oM 
 
LISBON. 
 
 HO 
 
 coiiiitrics slow to adopt now (nistoms mid notions, 
 l)iit it is really siii;;ulai' that ho inconvcuicMit, 
 old and j)riniitIvo ti nuichinc shoidd liuvc so lon^ 
 stood its nn)und. 1 ivcollcot l)(>in<;- told by a 
 o-cntltMnan, lon<i: rcsidcMit at CJihialtur, that ho 
 I'ound it inip«)ssiblo to induce nis ^-ardonorH to 
 thin his fruit at " (*ani])()," their reason bein;^', 
 that "(iod \V(mld not have allowed the trees to 
 1)0 so full of fruit, unless it woro best for them 
 to be so;" neitluT would they adopt the lij^ht 
 Knj^lish iron jdou^jj-h, admirably a(hi])tcd for tho 
 soil, but continued to use the S})unish wooden 
 ])lou<;h tii)ped with iron. '' Thus has it boon, so 
 let it ever l)e," appears the ereed of a Spaniard 
 or Portuguese;. 
 
 The general eharaetcr of the country is hilly 
 or indeed nu)untainou8, and the means of in- 
 ternal conniuuiicatirtu arc as inditl'eroit as they 
 were two centuries ago. There nuiy be said to 
 be literally no it^ads, except one (and that in a 
 wretched stati < betweiMi the cai)ital and ( )porto, 
 and on this road the traflic Ijetween the i>vo 
 most ini])ortant cities of the kingdom, is not 
 sullicient t(j support one ])ublic conveyance. An 
 occasional connnunication is \w\)t u]) by water 
 by nutans of a snudl Portuguese steamer, but 
 the usual nu^de adopted of reaching ( )j)orto from 
 Tiisi)on, is actually to take tho chance (jf the 
 Kuglish mail steamer, being able to land pas- 
 
 
'l'-«sf^ 
 
 law 
 
 .J 
 
 
 Hilii 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 I?! 
 i 
 
 ij 
 
 40 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 sciigers at the bar off the mouth of the Doiiro, 
 (which for 6 months in the year it is rarely 
 possible for her to do,) in which case the unfor- 
 tunate traveller is carried on to Vigo, 90 miles 
 north of his destination, and must retrace his 
 steps on horseback for 3 or 4 days over ranges 
 of mountains crossed by mere bridal paths. 
 Those who know how foreigners always suffer 
 at sea will be able to appreciate at once the 
 state of the accommodation on land, when a 
 voyage of 36 hours is chosen as the less dis- 
 agreeable alternative; — again between Lisbon 
 and Madrid, a steamer conveys you a few miles 
 up the Tagua, whence there is nothing for 
 it but a journey of 6 or 7 days on horseback. 
 And through the southern provices, nothing but 
 the direst necessity ever induces locomotion. 
 The "Algarves" are as little visited as Timbuc- 
 too. It really seems hardly credible that such 
 should be a correct description of a country 
 situated in the heart of Em'opean civilization, 
 in the middle of the 19th century, yet it is as 
 those who know it will testify. I have visited 
 Portugal repeatedly during the last 10 years, 
 and so lately as the year 1853, the state of 
 tilings was as I here describe it. Railways have 
 been talked about, and ''concessions" made, 
 but no real work done. The Portuguese like 
 to feast tlieir imagination and gratify their 
 
■A' l' 
 
 LISBON, 
 
 41 
 
 vanity, by talking about such things ; no people 
 in the world are more fond of high-sounding 
 names, and great designs on paper, but luifortu- 
 nately for the material progress of the country, 
 they have not sufficient sense of shame to blush 
 for the state in which they allow one of the 
 finest countries of Europe to languish. 
 
 I should not imagine that the climate is a 
 good one for an invalid, though it is fine and 
 dry ; it very rarely freezes, and there is but 
 little rain ; the sunshine is most beautifiil : but 
 guard against the keen air whistling through 
 the streets. In the hot weather of summer, 
 those who can aiford it, either go to Cintra, 
 or to their country houses, at the mouth of the 
 river, where the sea bathing is excellent, and 
 the air pure. The habits of the people are 
 inconceivably dirty; there is not a sewer in 
 tlie city, and the houses are almost without 
 exception, unprovided with the necessary ap- 
 pendage, to even the meanest cottage in England; 
 tlie resiilt may be conceived. Can anything 
 more clearly indicate an innate coarseness of 
 fooling ? 
 
 Some traces of the great earthquake still 
 remain ; here and there a huge windowless, 
 roofless, and roomless mass, picturesque by 
 moonlight, but saddening by day ; fearful me. 
 mcnto of wriith stands to tell the tale of that 
 
42 
 
 LI.S150N. 
 
 I 
 
 iiil! 
 
 il 
 
 ■m 
 
 ■m 
 
 I i 
 
 :f Will! 
 
 1 1 m 
 
 iiiii 
 
 I III' 
 "11 
 
 nm 
 
 terrible convulsion. Slight shocks are con- 
 tinually felt, and when I was in Lisbon, about 
 five years ago, were so unusually powerful, that 
 some fear was excited lest a recurrence of tliis 
 calamity were imminent. The Portuguese have 
 a theory, that nature takes a hundred years to 
 produce an earthquake on a grand scale, and as 
 that period had nearly elapsed, they were 
 frightened in proportion. At Naples, one cannot 
 but be conscious, that the city is built over 
 "hidden fires;" on one side is the ever-active 
 Vesuvius, and on the other the " Solfatara," 
 and an evident communication exists between 
 them . Hot springs and steaming sulplnu' poison 
 the air everywhere : but at Lisbon no such signs 
 exist ; here is nothing but a soil jirolific beyond 
 measure, — no streams of lava, — no hills of cal- 
 cined stones, thrown up 1,500 feet in one night, 
 (as the Monte Nuovo,near Na2)les), — no smoking 
 craters, — no boiling water struggling into day. 
 Still the belief, that Liwbon Avill again be des- 
 troyed by a similar throe of nature, is prevalent, 
 and i:>eriietuated, year after year, by the recur- 
 rence of slight shocks. 
 
 Let no one leave Ijisbon without paying a 
 visit to Cintra. This ridge of abrupt and rugged 
 rocks, rising from a level plain, capj^ed by most 
 beautiful and interesting edifices, and com- 
 manding, on all sides, varied views of land and 
 
LISBON. 
 
 43 
 
 Avator, it would bo almost a sin to leave unvisited. 
 Til J remembrance of the intense pleasure, I 
 derived from this excursion, will always remain 
 a bright sj)ot in my memory. To attempt 
 doscrijition, would simply be to tell an oft-told 
 talc, and as the eye more than the mind is 
 gratified, would probably fail to do it justice. 
 Those who do not mind a little fatigue, and 
 nicjre garlic, may pass two or three days, agree- 
 ably, in a trip round the lines of '' Torres Vedras.'' 
 
 c^^r^^a 
 
44 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 I iiill 
 
 RlilliDI 
 
 iiiiii 
 
 '■:ii I 
 
 li > 
 
 
 L 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 GIBRALTAR. — entrance of the straits. — 
 
 VIEW over the bay. SUNSET. DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE TOWN. SCENERY WITHOUT THE WALLS. 
 
 ALAMEDA. CONVICT ESTABLISHMENT. SOUTH 
 
 BARRACKS. ROSIA BAY. EUROPA POINT. ^WIND- 
 MILL HILL PRISON. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. ELDERS. 
 
 MIXED POPULATION. COMMERCIAL SQUARE AND 
 
 ITS AUCTIONS. — SIGNAL STATION. — GALLERIES. — 
 
 CAVES. NEUTRAL GROUND. RACE COURSE. 
 
 BURIAL GROUND. SPANISH LINES. CAMPO. 
 
 ST. ROQUE. — CORK- WOOD. — ALGECIRAS. — CLI- 
 MATE. SOCIETY. 
 
 X^ROM Lisbon to Gibraltar by steamer,^— the 
 run down the coast was fine. The shore 
 (except at Cadiz bay) is rocky and bold, and 
 in the straits the outline of the African Coast 
 from Cape Spartel to Mons Abyla, particularly 
 rugged. 
 
 There are few grander or more interesting 
 scenes than this entrance to the iediterranean ; 
 nature has been profusely lavish of her charms, 
 and history is her twin sister. 
 
 The weather was perfect ; one of those quiet 
 sunshiny windless days when natnrc is at ros\, 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 45 
 
 basking in its own indolence. Nothing ap- 
 peared to move but ourselves ; not a sound was 
 heard save the stroke of the paddles on the 
 glassy sea, and the panting breath of the engine j 
 all else was still ; when suddenly the evening 
 gun flashed a startling welcome from the signal 
 station at the top of the rock of Gibraltar, 
 passing like a spasm over the repose of the 
 scene, and reverberating loudly among the 
 Spanish hills, died away at last in a feeble 
 tremor. 
 
 Few are unacquainted either vsith the situa- 
 tion or external appearance of Gibraltar. It is 
 hardly necessary to say that it is a ridge of 
 rock about 3 miles longj connected with Spain 
 by a narrow flat isthmus of low sand, and al- 
 most wholly surrounded by the waters of the 
 Mediterranean sea. From the water its aspect 
 is barren and forbidding ; it appears a mere 
 mass of natural rock, with long lines of white 
 fortifications at the waters' edge, enclosing a 
 neat looking little town. Yet are there here 
 and there on this apparently naked lump of stone, 
 spots of unspeakable fertility and loveliness, 
 while ahnost every element of natural scenic 
 beauty on all sides surrounds it. Charms pre- 
 viously latent will day by day be revealed, 
 " He who knows it best will like it most." 
 
 We anchored among a crowd of shipping 
 
 >•*■"* 
 
•46 
 
 GIRRALTAK. 
 
 tM 
 
 i::igii' 
 
 i'll 
 
 fi 
 
 ■! 1 
 
 I ;i:Mi 
 
 :ilil 
 
 'ijl 
 iilli 
 
 lying off the '' old Molo," and had not a little 
 indulgence been extended to us, could not have 
 entered the fortress that evening. — Happily 
 that very important functionary the " key ser- 
 geant," had either received his instructions* 
 or was not disposed that evening to execute his 
 duties with unnecessary harshness, for the 
 " Waterport" gates were kept open a few 
 minutes after the proper time for closing them 
 had arrived, and we were 2)ermitted to land. 
 A rush took place to secure rooms at the '' Club 
 House" hotel, where being an old acquaintance 
 I was fortunate enough to obtain a couple of 
 rooms overlooking the bay. Here telescope in 
 hand have I passed day after day, never weary 
 of the scene. At all hours it varies ; in the 
 morning the o[)posite shore and the beetling 
 grim cliffs of Africa arc lit up by tlie sun, while 
 the rock of Gibraltar is all darkness and gloom ; 
 in the afternoon the Rock is all light and glad- 
 ness, while the barren brown hills of Spain hide 
 behind their envious shade the brilliant orb of 
 day. Sunset here is magnificent ; nowhere, not 
 even in the tropics have I seen the tints more 
 glowing, or the clouds more beautifully piled. 
 " Slow sinks more lovely ere his race be run, 
 " Behind Ilispania's shores the setting sun ; 
 " Not as in Northern climes obscurely bright, 
 " But one unclouded blaze of living light." 
 
 — BVRON. 
 
 * A Member of tlic CJovernoi'o family was on board<«i 
 
■: 1 
 
 (ilHRAT/lAR. 
 
 47 
 
 The bay is always full oflifb and motion, 
 but as trofxclicrouH as it is beautiful ; in a strong 
 East wind or " Lcvanto" the gusts sweep across 
 its waters, dri^^ng the scud in silvery clouds be - 
 fore its blast, or whirling the waters round and 
 round in eddying circles of foam.* From every 
 pohit of view within the town, the bay of 
 Gibraltar seems to be a lake, for though the 
 width of the straits is no where less than 14 
 miles, the African shore appears to meet the 
 S])rinish coast at " Cabrita" point, from whence 
 a range of hills about 2500 feet high, sloping 
 gradually to the water, bound the view ; at the 
 foot of V iii'^h lies the town of Algeciras. Further 
 on, round the wliolo sweep of the bay, the shore 
 is low and unbroken except by a few slight 
 traces of ancient ''Carteia," the little white vil- 
 lage of " Campo," and the town (^" St. Roque, 
 situated on a liill about 3 miles from the shore. 
 Inland rises the mountain chain about '^ Ronda," 
 Ijrown and bleak. A little to the right is the nar- 
 row strip of flat sandy ground on which are the 
 Spanish and British lines with the luirrow space 
 ciiUed the neutral ground between them. From 
 this sandy plan the Rock of Gibraltar rises, in 
 
 * While this wind blows no boat belonging to English men 
 of Wiir is allowed to hoist a sail ; there is a standing order in 
 the service against doing so; and the boats belonging to the 
 l)lace exercise the same caution as much as possible, for ac- 
 cidents freqnently occur. 
 
■^ 
 
 48 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 p. Ijjiljlj 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 'fl! 
 
 1 
 
 <'{ 1 
 
 11 1 
 
 .'iiti 
 
 ■ill 
 
 
 
 „ ,ii;ll 
 
 •ill!*' 
 its fe, 
 
 m 
 
 complete and startling inolation, a natural wall 
 of perpendicular stone 1450 high. Its length 
 is about 3 miles, and there are three peaks or 
 rather summits of almost equal altitude. On 
 the nearest to Spain is the celebrated Rock gun, 
 the next a little lower is capped by the signal 
 station, and on the third, lower still is O'Hara's 
 tower. The highest part of the rock is about 
 halfway between O'Hflva's tower and the signal 
 station. The whole face of the rock looking 
 towards the neutral ground, is seamed and cut 
 up both within and without into a perfect maze 
 of fortifications. Battery after battery, ditch 
 glacis and counterscarp line the approach to the 
 town from this quarter, and zig-zag walls stretch 
 tortuously halfway up the side of the hill, while 
 powerful batteries jut far out into the bay. 
 Added to which, an artificial lake has been 
 formed which prevents all access from this side 
 except by a narrow road a few yards wide, upon 
 which so terrific a fire can be kept up, that I 
 was assured even so small an object as a grass- 
 hopper could not survive the first discharge. 
 Along the sea line from hence to the new mole 
 or dock yard, white stone walls and formidable 
 projecting bastions defend the town; while 
 every here and there among the houses, which 
 cling to the steep side of the hill, new batteries 
 have been constructed. Every spot is com- 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 49 
 
 manded by the works, and almost every level 
 spot on which 100 men could stand has been 
 cut away or scarped. Towards the south the 
 town is defended by a line of fortifications car- 
 ried up the side of the rock until they meet a 
 natural cliff some 200 or 300 feet high. These 
 works were constructed by the Emperor Charles 
 the 5th, and over the south gateway are still 
 to be seen the united arms of Austria and Spain. 
 Sentinels and guard rooms meet the eye every- 
 where. Bugles, fifes, and drums are scarcely 
 one moment silent ; daylight is heralded by the 
 loud boom of a gun, and a fitful flash from the 
 same source quivers through the darkness of 
 gathering night. All is military pomp, noise and 
 restraint. The town within the walls is about a 
 mile long, and consists of narrow streets, some- 
 times very steep (then called ** Ramps,") large 
 barracks, commissariat ai 1 ordnance stores, 
 and officers quarters; with one or two small 
 open squares. The public buildings are none 
 of them worth comment; the private houses are 
 usually small, and not very well calculated for 
 the heat of the climate. The roofs are flat; 
 and are not unfrequently adorned by the week's 
 wash of linen, hanging to dry ; while within, 
 as the horses often occupy the ground floor, 
 a decidedly stable smell is apparent. The 
 English residents furnish their houses during the 
 
 iri 
 
50 
 
 GIUIIALTAR. 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 ' i. 
 
 ill 
 
 , ..■Hi! 
 
 winter, after the English fashion; but in the 
 hot months of summer, the rooms are as much 
 denuded of crirpets and furniture as possible. 
 Every house is provided with a tank, which is 
 supplied by the rain water from the roof, carried 
 into it by gutters and pipes; the drainage is 
 worse than indifferent. The best parts of the 
 town are clean, but where the Barbary Jews and 
 Moors congregate, the state of things is horrid. 
 In former days, when the smuggling trade into 
 Spain was prosperous, land was so valuable 
 that every foot was economized ; rents were 
 enormous, and are still comparatively high, 
 though the legitimate trade of the place is very 
 small ; and since the residence of General 
 Narvaez at Gibraltar, the illegitimate or smug- 
 gling trade has been made too expensive to leave 
 much profit. There are now too many officers to 
 bribe. That General Narvaez did not waste 
 his time while on the Rock in profitless idleness 
 is tolerably notorious, and therefore on his re- 
 turn to power in Spain he had acquired infor- 
 mation which was not allowed to remain unpro- 
 ductive. There is a homely proverb known to 
 English policemen which might not inaptly be 
 applied in his case. On the subject of the trade 
 of the place its inhabitants are peculiarly sensi- 
 tive, and probably all the more so, as it really 
 is not easy to defend it. The trade in tobacco 
 
OIDRALTAR. 
 
 61 
 
 and cigar making is extensive, and I believe 
 blameless ; and of course a great number of peo- 
 ple are supported by business connected with 
 shipping. At times through a prevalence of 
 west and north westerly winds vessels cannot 
 beat through the straits and are compelled to 
 anchor off Gibraltar or Algcciras, where I 
 have known them to be detained two months. 
 Last winter an enormous fleet were thus de- 
 tained, at one time nearly 400 vessels. This 
 is of course a source of groat profit to all on the 
 rock. The revenue benefits largely, and the 
 shopkeepers are not heard to complain. 
 
 Let us however pass on now to a description 
 of the scenery, outside the walls of the town, 
 towards the south. A few yards takes us into 
 the parade ground, public garden or alameda, 
 prettily laid out, with winding paths and sum- 
 mer houses, but defaced by most grotesque 
 statues. Even here, in this lovely garden, 
 sunken batteries mar the beauties of nature, 
 lafent angues in herba. In the sprin ^' months, 
 when the almond and orange trees are in blos- 
 som, and the flowers in their prime, when the 
 dust is washed by the winter showers, from the 
 leaves of the geranium, the myrtle, the showy 
 Barbadoes aloe, the flora pasqual, and the endless 
 tribe of flowering creeping plants; when an 
 
 almost tropical vegetation, fresh from the bath, 
 
 d2 
 
62 
 
 OinnALTAR. 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 i-.i !t 
 
 mingles its luxuriant bonutica with the dark 
 rockfl abovo, and tlio Hmiling water below, a 
 stroll through tluH spot is most enticing. The 
 mode in which the garden is laid out, forms a 
 striking contrast to the long straight rows of 
 trees and duaty promenade of a true Spanish 
 Alameda. Hero the ground is uneven, full 
 of little mounds crowned with white pagodas 
 and summer houses with little glens or dells beau- 
 tifully laid out in irregular cottage gardens ; — 
 footpaths and bridle paths twine and twist 
 about in every direction. The profusion of 
 orange blossoms growing near the latter, has 
 given rise to a bad Gibraltar pun, viz. that it 
 is quite right that the bridal path should bo 
 strewed with orange flowers. The regimental 
 bands play on the parade ground two or three 
 times a week in the afternoon, when almost 
 every one halts for a moment in their drive or 
 ride, and pedestrians stroll idly up and down 
 under the agreeable shade of the wide spread- 
 ing ' ' bella sombra trees. ' ' Above this garden an 
 ascending and then descending road, offering 
 tlirough the branches of dark pine trees most 
 lovely views of the blue bay, and Spanish hills, 
 leads to the extreme south of the rock ; while 
 below the Alameda along the line wall a level 
 road brings you to the south barracks and the 
 dockyard, and a group of cottages and houses 
 
OIDIIALTAH. 
 
 63 
 
 which almost form a Hocond town. From honr5o 
 to Europa point, perched on bold rocky 
 oininonceH, courtin*:!; tlio Seabreeze from tho 
 straits or nostlinp^ in deep rocky chasins, are 
 tho houses oftho chief resident officials, some of 
 whicli are beautifully situated.* Nearly all 
 have small gardens ; the windows arc always 
 open to tho refreshing Seabreeze, and h. re the 
 air is not only 6 or 7 degrees cooler than in the 
 town, but it is also free from the exceedingly 
 nasty and unhealthy smell which arises from 
 the drains at low water. These drains are at 
 present a disgrace to the governnumt. Since 
 tho new fortifications have been built, and the 
 breakwater thrown out, the refuse from the 
 town is not freely carried away by the sea, but 
 remains to pollute the air and generate disease. 
 This neglect of common precaution is in a cli- 
 mate like this, quite inexcusable. The remedy 
 k easy ; nothing more would be required than 
 to carry the sewers a few feet further into the sea. 
 I understood that before this breakwi-t^ • was 
 finished, the resident medical men called upon 
 the then commanding engineer and represented 
 the great danger to the health of the town, 
 
 * The house at present occupied by the Captcain of the 
 Port would be considered a good one even in England while 
 no one will ever forgot the view from the drawing-room at 
 *' Glen Kooky" or from the house of Mr. A — y, G — 1, C — . 
 
 ■nil 
 
 I 
 
ll^ 
 
 4 
 
 • ! 
 
 I 1' 
 
 i : i 
 
 r:f;;t| 
 
 54 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 which would ensue, if the works were proceeded 
 with; the answer was '*I am here to take care 
 of the STRENGTH not the health of Gibraltar ;" 
 pitliy but unsatisfactory.* Within the dock- 
 yard gates is the large convict establishment 
 amounting at times to nearly 1000 men, who 
 are employed upon the new fortifications. I 
 attended divine service on one occasion at their 
 chapel, and was pleased with the manner in 
 which the Psalms were sung, and the quiet 
 orderly demeanour of the prisoners. On enter- 
 ing they take off their shoes which are carried 
 in the hand. The chaplain told me that he had 
 some faint hope his labours were not entirely 
 lost ; that in those rare cases where a long course 
 of good conduct during their stay in the hulks 
 had induced the Home Secretary to remit part 
 of the original punishment, the men had left 
 
 * During my stay at Gibraltar I suffered greatly from 
 headache, and other bodily derangements from this cause ; 
 and so offensive is the smell that I was assured by residents in 
 Irish town and the neighbourhood of the commercial square, 
 that plate cleaned the previous day was constantly during 
 one night only greatly tarnished by it. The engineer mess is 
 close to the worst part of it, and at times in their ante-room 
 the smell was insupportable. I may as well say that the 
 quarters of the Colonel commanding the engineers are not 
 within its influence. I presume after the troops have been 
 decimated by intermittent fever this will be altered, and not 
 till then. 
 
 . ^.-.iTirilirMlirT w 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 55 
 
 with a sense of their former guilt, and a wish to 
 lead for the ftiture a life free from crime. But 
 that amongst the convicts as a body, the pre- 
 vailing opinion was, that they were most un- 
 justly treated; that their punishment was far 
 too great for their crime, and that this feeling 
 prevented all remorse or reformation. His 
 manner amongst them was kind and persuasive, 
 and they appeared to entertain some respect 
 for him. I fear, however, it is next to impos- 
 sible to do much permanent good where so 
 many men are packed so closely together as 
 they are in these hulks. They must contaminate 
 each other. At times the convicts escape into 
 Spain, where as there is no extradition treaty 
 between Spain and England they are free. To 
 me it has always been a matter of surprise that 
 this does not happen more frequently, for boats 
 containing 30 or 40 men are constantly in the 
 bay guarded by only one armed man, who 
 might be easily overpowered ; and by rowing 
 at once amongst the shipping no guns from the 
 fort could be brought to bear upon the boat, 
 before it would reach the Spanish shore at the 
 head of the bay. 
 
 While I was at Gibraltar last winter (1853), 
 one convict did manage to effect his escape. 
 The feat was so cleverly executed, that the 
 poor fellow really deserved success. A gang 
 
56 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 M\i 
 
 ? 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 if 
 
 of convicts of whom he was one, were employed 
 on some new casemate barracks mider the line 
 wall. All apparent possibility of escape is cut 
 off by the conspicuous prison dress in which the 
 convicts work, and by sentinels and watchmen 
 being placed at the end of every passage, lane 
 or street ; it would therefore seem that escape 
 by land was impossible. In this case, however, 
 the man was missed, the alarm instantly given, 
 flags were hoisted, muskets fired, and the in- 
 telligence flashed along the whole line of forti- 
 fications in a moment ; the most rigorous search 
 was made while daylight lasted, but in vain. 
 The next morning it was known that a poor 
 half drowned wretch had knocked at the door 
 of a cottage in the village of '* Campo" about 
 midnight, and was fi:ee. He had crawled be- 
 tween the rafters of some unfinislicd flooring, 
 then being laid down, remained m that 
 position till dark, thence by means of a sewer 
 obtained access to the sea, and made his 
 way sometimes wading, sometimes swimming, 
 for more than three miles along the bay shore, 
 to the Spanish lines. 
 
 A little beyond the convict establishment, is 
 a chaimiiig nook, called '* Rosia bay," from 
 whence the bold rocks jut out into the sea, in 
 perpendicular masses 100 feet high, bidding 
 defiance, alike to the assaults of nature or of 
 
 .jllf! 
 
 •i 
 
 Ik 
 
 L 
 
.. :,.^.... 
 
 OIBRALTAR. 
 
 67 
 
 man. Here the scenery is most picturesque; 
 huge boulders of rock lie in every direction, 
 and deep chasms and caves tell plainly, that 
 nature has, some time or other, been powerfully 
 convulsed. Winding paths, at times actually 
 overhanging the water, at others deep in the 
 bosom of a huge fissure or rent, where sun-light 
 rarely enters, present at each moment varied 
 and lovely views, while the eye is literally tor- 
 tured by the perfect maze of fortifications, 
 engrafted by art on a spot, where nature had 
 already, one would have supposed rendered 
 such precautions imnecessary. 
 
 At Europa point, the extreme end of the rock, 
 is a light-house, '' placed (as the inscription 
 informs us) by Adelaide Queen Dowager of 
 Great Britain and Ireland, in the year 1836." 
 From hence Ceuta is plainly visible, and far 
 beyond, little white fleecy specs, high up in the 
 sky, indicate the position of the highest peaks 
 of the Atlas chain, where, even in summer, the 
 snow never melts. These mountains rise to a 
 height of 13,000 feet, and are about 200 miles 
 from Gibraltar, 
 
 On rounding the point, the view along the 
 south-side of the rock is very fine ; the smooth 
 sea stretches far away in a gentle curve, its 
 shore line dotted with little Spanish towns, and 
 its surface freckled with many a sail ; while the 
 
 p 
 
 !, 
 
 
 ■f 
 
58 
 
 GinRALTAU. 
 
 I 
 
 .■Sit: 
 
 
 little village of Catalan Bay, nestling timidly 
 under tlie fr(>^vTling rock, is now for the first 
 time scon. It is garrisoned by a company of 
 soldiers, frcni Gibraltar, and is a mere fishing 
 village. Excei)t this little sandy cove, all is 
 precipitous rock on this side. Catalan bay is 
 inaccessible from Europa point, but when the 
 wind blows strongly from the east, the walk 
 round the north end of the rock, to this se- 
 questered nook, is most striking. Above, is a 
 natural wall of rock, a quarter-of-a-mile high, and 
 almost perpendicular ; and at your feet a raging 
 roaring surf, breaking furiously on the shore, 
 while the pathway is scarcely more than a yard 
 in width. 
 
 The flat ground, near Europa point, is now 
 the scene of great engineering activity; new 
 barracks and works of all kinds, are being con- 
 structed. It is said that, a boast of the Prince 
 de JoinWlle, that he could land, at this part of 
 the rock, from the yard-arm of a line-of-battlo 
 ship, sufficient men to take the place, has been 
 tlie cause of this ; but most probably this part 
 of the rock is the least defended by nature; while 
 the increased means of attack, given by the in- 
 vention of steamers,*and the improvement in 
 guns and naval [^gunnery, have made some 
 additional works necessary. At Europa point 
 three or four guns are always kept loaded, as 
 
 «MW-.^.^^ _.. 
 
I I 
 
 OIBRALTAR. 
 
 69 
 
 cvciy vo?scl coming within range, is obliged to 
 hoiat h«^r colours, under the penalty, on neg- 
 lecting to do so, of being at first fired at, and 
 after two ar three wide shots, f.i'od into. 
 
 The country house of the governor of the 
 fortress, faces the Mediterranean near this spot, 
 but the residence usually occupied by him, is 
 within the walls of the town, — was formerly a 
 convent, and is called so still. The house is 
 poorly fumiHhed, and the reception rooms, 
 except the dining room, and ball room, arc 
 small. Attached is a well-kept and pretty 
 garden. 
 
 On Windmill-hill, close to this spot, is the 
 military prison, having cells for forty prisoners. 
 The prison is clean, admirably arranged, and 
 tlie discipline very strict ; the punishments aro 
 severe. Flogging, solitary confinement, drill, 
 shot exercise (which consists in lifting, without 
 intermission, for three hours, a 321b. ball from 
 one spot, and putting it down on another), at 
 the word of command, are the chief ; the minor 
 punishments consist in breaking stones, sleejv ng 
 every third night < n the bare floor, without bed 
 or bedding, and the withdrawal of some few 
 indulgences. Every man works 11 J hours a day ; 
 no occupation, with any variety or into oat in it, 
 is allowed. The prisoners appeared wretched 
 and gloomy in the extreme. On the outside of 
 
I* I 
 
 60 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 
 y-'i 
 
 i 
 
 
 * 
 
 
 li 1 
 
 ill: 
 
 li / 
 
 •i'iii 
 
 ■ 
 
 4 
 
 B: 
 
 iHtli- 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 ■■SH!i 
 
 tiie door of each coll a little card is fixed, stating 
 the term of impiisonment, and the crhao conf- 
 milled by tht' occupant ; drunkonmws?, striking; 
 non-conmiissioned officers, and a few cajoa of 
 theft, wrro tl'o sole crimes. The pvison wm 
 nearl}- full; tlio term of impriHonmo>i/ ranged 
 from six weekrt to two j >ars; thu dietary is 
 liberal and substantial. 1 camo away with tho 
 convii^tion, that two years of suoh purashniont, 
 and such IncosHant controul, mi!>".t utterly pro.:*- 
 trsite any man's niiiid and feelings, — he must 
 leiv^ it. '• nroro machine, without sense, eiiher 
 of ph^asnre or pain. To understand fully, the 
 oxteivt ci puiiijhment in this prison, it must bo 
 Ij-ornc in mind, that the most rigoroua military 
 discipline, is superadded to tho controul usually 
 exercised in a jail. The prisoners uiidergo a 
 course of instruction, while in prison. 
 
 Tho air here is invigorating and pure, a 
 marked contrast to the stifling atmospliere of tho 
 town. From hence an agrceabh^ walk along the 
 upper road, carries you into the city. I have 
 before said, that the public buildings, inside 
 the walls of the fortress, scarcely deserve any 
 connnent, — I will, however just allude to them : 
 — First in order comes the Protestant cathedral, 
 a hideous heavy building, of Moorish archi- 
 tecture, built by the engineers ; outside it looks 
 like a large ilut-roofed shapeless nuiust ; .u, and 
 
OIHRALTER. 
 
 61 
 
 within, tho echo is so great and continuous, 
 tliat not a word can bo heard. Nc sutor ultra crepi- 
 dam ; a military engineer, with his mind fiill of 
 barracks, bastions, and redoubts, is pretty sure 
 to fail, if allowed scope for his genius, as an 
 architect, in civil matters. It is not strong 
 enough to bear the weight and jar of a peal of 
 bells, there are therefore none. This should bo 
 a subject of congratulation to the inhabitants, 
 for the bell attached to tho Roman Catholic Cathe- 
 dral is rarely silent, and dismally harsh in t(mo; a 
 second similar infliction would bo scarcely 
 endurable. 
 
 Tho bishop is rarely here, as Malta is tho 
 most central point of his large diocese. The 
 archdeacon is tho resident civil chaplain, and 
 some poor fellow, whose health will not allow 
 him to live in England, is usually tempted, by 
 the dignity of an honorary canonry, to be his 
 coadjutor, without salary. Tho exchange, in 
 which is a very good library and reading room, 
 is I think tht most creditable building in Gib- 
 raltar, and tho law courts are also convenient 
 and well arranged. In front of the latter is a 
 small garden, where some pepper trees, planted 
 by the registrar of the court only five years ago, 
 are no" . 'ncvn into fine shady trees, probably 
 25 i :.)i> high: ari 'nstance of rapid growth, 
 raioly to be rfcon in a climo^ ) not tropical. 
 
 
 ■fii 
 
 i 
 
 
 ^.. 
 
 
62 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 j 
 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 -.? 
 
 1 
 
 
 !'■■ ii 
 
 i'l 
 
 ::j 
 
 ■it 
 ■■I 
 
 ■■) 
 
 ■'■■■::) 
 
 ' ■■ i; 
 .J 
 ': 
 
 The Roman Catholic Cathedral (except that 
 it possesses a tower and a bell), makes no exter- 
 nal pretensions whatever ; and within, the lover 
 of the fine arts would not find much to gratify 
 his taste. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Bishop, or rather 
 *' Vicar Apostolic" was for some time in hot 
 water with his flock. There exists in Gibraltar 
 a body of men called ** Elders'' who are elected 
 each year by the congregation, and have entire 
 control over the revenues of the chuj'ch. This 
 very presbyterian institution is quite foreign to 
 the discipline of the Roman Catholic Church. I 
 believe it exists nowhere else amongst that body, 
 and it has existed fi:om time immemorial here. 
 It is not of British growth. The *' fungus" is 
 indigenous. It was perhaps only natural that 
 the present vicar apostolic should not approve of 
 it, and decline to recognise the authority of the 
 elders. But they, much to their credit, insisted 
 upon his surrendering into their charge, the fees 
 arising fi-om the church; and on his refusal, 
 the court of chancery was applied to, that the 
 matter might be decided. It decreed compliance 
 with the established custom, and Dr — was for 
 some time imprisoned for contempt of court, in 
 not obeying its decree. 
 
 The Roman worship is much toned down and 
 simplified by its contact with Protestantism j 
 
 hei 
 Tl 
 tioi 
 but 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 03 
 
 here are no holy toe-nails and other absurdities. 
 The Church (there is but one with the excep- 
 tion of a little Chapel at the South) is decorated, 
 but not so much as greatly to offend the eye. 
 
 The Jews in Gibraltar are a very numerous 
 body and possess four rather handsome syna- 
 gogues. Many of them are wealthy, but by 
 far the greater part of the Jewish population 
 are dirty in their persons and habits, and possess 
 to an almost exaggerated degree, the features 
 and cunning twinkle of the eye, characteristic 
 of their race. They may be seen in filthy 
 brown striped '* bernouse" or long gown, lean- 
 ing against the door posts, or seated on the 
 step, eagerly trafficking; their faces almost 
 touching in the eagerness of their pursuit. They 
 appear to converse more with the face and hands 
 than with the lips ; some of their customs are 
 said to be most peculiar. Previous to marriage 
 the intended wife sits on the side of a bed, for 
 a week, in full dress, with painted eyebrows, 
 hands covered with jewels, and the nails also 
 stained, to receive visitors. Every Jewish woman 
 in this part of the world on marriage, shaves the 
 head and wears a wig ; and so rigidly is this 
 adhered to, that an English Jewess of the better 
 class who refused to comply with this custom, 
 was on that account not visited by the ladies of 
 her own r orsuasion. They never allow any 
 
 'Ja 
 
 
 
 
 w. 
 
64 
 
 OinUALTAR. 
 
 ± n\ 
 
 one to die in bed, but put them on the floor 
 when they flpi'tor to be "in a dying Mtate;" a 
 ready wjiv, it vn: y bo sup;>08ed of extinguish- 
 ing tho little life that remains. All the water 
 in the house is also emptied at once, as the Jews 
 of the lowest class believe, that Death (whom 
 they personify) clear" Ir!^ 'Atiody sword after 
 the stroke, in tho water. Their houses are dirty 
 and wretched, and the food upon which they 
 live, of the poorest kind. They are chiefly 
 T3arbary Jews, and I believe are as low in the 
 mental and physical scale as possible. I make 
 these statements on the authority of one of the 
 mosi respectable natives of the rock, and have no 
 reason to doubt their truth. 
 
 Moors from Barbary also crowd the streets and 
 walk most majestically ; their tall, upright, manly 
 figures, loosely envelopped in a white or brown 
 robe, their legs generally stockingless, and their 
 feet encased in brij.i;ht yellow slippers; — the 
 massive turban twisted t ightly round the open 
 and high ibre-head, n ake an impression not 
 readily effaced. They are not much darker 
 in comple'^ion than the Southern Spaniards, 
 exhibiting in their faces indisputable marks of 
 the purity of their ra'^e, i d in their slow and 
 dignified walk, the t rn liich every true mus- 
 sulman feels for the unbeliever. They frequent 
 the theatre when it is opened for performance, 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 e5 
 
 
 and seem to enter very fully into whatever'may 
 bo represented, but their feelings with regard 
 to the fair sex must bo dreadfully shocked by the 
 appearance of ladies on the stage. 
 
 The scene in the Commercial Square on an 
 auction morning, is also most curious and enter- 
 taining. First of all, a few huge casks of leaf 
 tobacco are disposed of; then probably the 
 auctioneer mounts 'a little stool, with a desk 
 about the size of an ordinary octavo volume 
 attached to it, and offers to public competition, 
 a most miscellaneous assortment of goods. — say 
 a case of champagne, half a-dozen old sails, Dutch 
 cheeses, left off uniforms, odd volumes of books, 
 a chain (able, a few spars, an iron bedstead or 
 a chest of drawers, old nails, a few prints of 
 sacred --abjects, most grotesquely coloured to 
 sir't the Spanish peasants' taste, some soap, 
 knives, needles and pins, and a bale or two of 
 tmmpe cotton prints ; finishing probably with 
 the sale of a horse, "warranted sound," and 
 only parted with because the owner is leaving 
 the garrison." — While this is going on, tho 
 ground is being strewed with the usual contents 
 of a ''marine store" in England, aronnd which 
 people gather, and traffic, nothing being appa- 
 rently too old or valueless to find a purchaser. 
 In about two hours all is gone, and the open 
 space resumes its quiet half-deserted aspect 
 
 •'i 
 
 -'■:■ !#i 
 
 ^W-t^i 
 
 
I » 
 
 00 
 
 flinUALTAR. 
 
 until t]i(5 band appoarfl for ovoninff «^un firo. 
 
 Had I been an early riHor I whould have found 
 the fruit and vo«(ctabh) market amusing ; })ut 
 the Bun docH not appear over the rock until it 
 has been Hhininjj;' an hour or two on the level 
 country around ; and mesa dinners and whist i)ar- 
 ties in rather too ra])id successicm do not induce 
 early hours in the morning. In Gibraltar, as 
 in the United States, the gentlemen go early to 
 market ; the ladies are spared that trouble. 
 
 No where can a greater variety of people 
 language and dress be heard or seen than in the 
 part of Gibraltar near the port, and particularly 
 in Waterport-strcct ; almost every country in 
 the world is more or less represented. In other 
 places a similar variety probably exists, but 
 scattered thinly over a much larger space ; 
 here, it is concentrated as it were into one 
 focus, a thick slowly moving mass ; three 
 minutes will take you from one end of it to the 
 other. 
 
 Except the singularity and beauty of its 
 situation, with the charming little spots scattered 
 over the " Rock," there is not much to be seen 
 in Gibraltar. The great lions are the lower and 
 upper galleries, the "rock gun" signal station, 
 O'Hara's tower, and St. Martin's and St. 
 Michaels caves; all which can be comfortably 
 visited in two days. The lower lines are far 
 
 ,4.- A 
 
 m 
 
GIHIULTKR. 
 
 07 
 
 more useful aa dofeucos than the upper, but the 
 latter are much more interesting to the non- 
 military man, and the view from them is 
 more beautiful. The panorama from the signal 
 station is I should think scarcely equalled in 
 Europe. The ascent is by a tolerable pathway, 
 and is not very fatiguing. It takes about an 
 hour of gentle walking, which gives time for 
 an occasional halt to admire the scone below 
 you. The town with its intricate fortifications, 
 and little dots of parade grounds, looks like a 
 white paper model, the vessels floating on the 
 sluggish water, like little black flies ; the lovely 
 alameda is radiant with flowers of all colours, 
 and orange trees in fiiU fruit, while just above 
 them, gaunt and sombre looking pine trees, 
 relieved by rod almond trees, in full blossom, 
 crown the rocks. The eye travels over an 
 immense tract of Spain, studded with white 
 little towns, hamlets and castles, picturesquely 
 perched on the tops of gently rising hills, with 
 green fields of fresh barley waving at their feet. 
 Behind this, rises the '' Sierra Nevada," white 
 with pure and seldom trodden snow. To the 
 south, lies the town of Tangiers, and the horrid 
 crags of Mens Abyla, 5,000 feet high, rising in 
 an apparently perpendicular mass, from the 
 water : beyond this, again, three distinct ranges 
 
 of snow-capped mountains, forming the greater 
 
 E 2 
 
 
68 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 Atlas chain tower in the sky. At your feet 
 therefore, is a perfect garden of Eden, washed 
 by the clear blue limpid, almost motionless, sea ; 
 while all around, a belt of Nature's giants iso- 
 late it, as it were, from the rest of the world. 
 Who could think of the inconvenience or hard- 
 ships of travel, with such a scene around him ? 
 I left the garrison, one morning, with the in- 
 tention of passing a week at the town of St. 
 Roque, about six miles inland. Passing through 
 the Waterport gate, and the adjacent fortifica- 
 tions, a rapid turn brought me to the level plain, 
 which separates the bay of Gibraltar from the 
 Mediterranean; on this plain are scattered, 
 here and there, a few guard-houses, a kennel 
 for the Calp^ fox hounds, an enclosed burial 
 ground for the troops ; close to which, but un- 
 protected in any way, are a few flat stones, 
 indicating that here, in former days, the race of 
 Israel were buried ; and in singular and rather 
 mis-placed juxtaposition with these records cf 
 mortality, is the circular race-course ; while, a 
 little fiirther on, are the sheds and slaughter- 
 houses, in v/hich the cattle are fatted and killed, 
 for the supply of the garrison. About 500 Bar- 
 bary oxen are always kept here. There is also 
 a little cultivated patch of garden ground, 
 enclosed by a prickly poar hedge, in which 
 vegetables are grown for the garrison, which 
 
 fl' 
 

 OIBBALTAB. 
 
 69 
 
 derives, however, its chief supply of these 
 necessaries from Spain ; this garden is irrigated 
 by means of a Persian wheel, turned by a poor 
 blindfolded ox. 
 
 From this spot, the rock rises before you, in 
 all its majesty ; 1,450 feet of perpendicular stone j 
 no view of it is so good as this. From the bay 
 shore, or Algeciras, the isolation of the rock is 
 perhaps better appreciated, but^distance lessens 
 its height and grandeur. 
 
 Let us pause here awhile, and think over the 
 memorable events, which have given undying 
 fame to the scene ! There is not a mile of wa- 
 ter or land, on which the eye now rests, where 
 deadly strife has not raged. The first settlement 
 made on the rock, appears to have been by the 
 Moors, under " Tarik," in the year 708. The 
 Carthaginians and Romans, although in pos- 
 session of the adjacent country, neglected this 
 barren spot. The Moors, however, immediately 
 erected fortifications upon it ; and it was hence 
 that their predatory expeditions into Spain, 
 generally started. From 708 until 1309, the 
 Moors held the rock ; in that year, the Spaniards, 
 under Fernando the Fourth, laid siege to, and 
 took it ; six years afterwards, the Moors endea- 
 voured, unsuccessfully, to recapture it ; but after 
 a two years' struggle, the Mooiisli colours again 
 floated from the walls, in 1381. 
 
\ 
 
 to 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 The next struggle, to wrest the rock from the 
 infidels, lasted four years, and was unsuccessful. 
 Up to 1462, the history of this stronghold, is a 
 continual succession of bloody contests, between 
 the Crescent and the Cross, for its possession. 
 In that year it finally fell, after tremendous 
 efforts, into the hands of the combined Christian 
 forces, and was held in peace by the Spaniards, 
 until taken by the English fleet, under Admiral 
 Rooke, in 1703. The next siege lasted ten 
 years, but the small English garrison, of 3,000 
 men, successfully defended it, and by the treaty 
 of Utrecht, the rock was finally ceded to Great 
 Britain. In 1729, 17,000 men were fruitlessly 
 marched into the Campimento of St. Roque, to 
 besiege Gibraltar for the thirteenth time. In 
 1779, 14,000 men sat down before the place, 
 which was then defended by the gallant Elliott. 
 After four years, disheartened and discomfited, 
 the besieging army retired. Since then (as the 
 Handbook says), " pestilence alone has attacked 
 Gibraltar ;" the smuggler's gun, or the harmless 
 salute, have been borne on its waters, and echoed 
 amongst tlie neighbouring mountains, the mock 
 battle has succeeded the real ; the gay review, 
 to the mangled limbs and distorted features of 
 the slain. Al)out a mile from the rock, stands 
 the little cluster of houses, forming the village 
 at the Si)aiiish lines. The only house with two 
 
 I'rri: 
 
OIBPALTAK. 
 
 71 
 
 stories, in the place, is the dwelling of the colo. 
 nel commandant ; all the rest are, to the last 
 degree, poverty stricken. The uniform of the 
 Spanish soldier, is made of grey frieze, and is 
 mean looking; the men are under-sized, and 
 by no means soldierlike in their walk or appear- 
 ance, though their long stride enables them to 
 march quicker than any other troops in Europe. 
 The mounted police are fine picked men, who, 
 in their large jaunty cocked hat, yellow glit- 
 tering belt, and other showy accoutrements, both 
 of rider and horse, look more like field marshals 
 than simple policemen. Passing this spot, the 
 road skirts the bay shore, and is a mere sand 
 track ; when the tide is out the road is good, and 
 the favourite ride of the Gibraltar people. A 
 few reeds grow out of the sand, other vegetation 
 there is none ; and after following the course of 
 the bay, for about two miles, and turning in- 
 land to the right, we soon reach the little village, 
 of Campo, one of the smumer retreats of tlie 
 merchants, and officers of the garrison ; which is a 
 mean-looking little place, but undoubtedly a 
 beneficial change of residence, for the Gibraltar 
 people. The climate is (particularly in the 
 oarly summer months) very invigorating, after 
 til at of the rock ; and it is not therefore sur- 
 prising, that those who have derived benefit from 
 it. should always speak of the place with affection. 
 
 IP 
 
 '' -^^ ..■■'. /'It 
 
 ' i-M 
 
!il 
 
 
 72 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 Beyond this is a " Quinta" and farm, of several 
 hundred acres, on whose rather trying soil, Mr. 
 F — . exercises his patience, as a farmer. The 
 road thence turns inland, and rising, and falling, 
 over undulating ground, mounts the hill, on 
 which the town of St. Roque stands, about six 
 miles from Gibraltar. — ^Nothing whatever is to be 
 seen here ; its only attraction is a capital hotel. 
 Macrae's " fonda " is unexceptionably c^^ean, and 
 moderate in its charges ; I do not know what 
 the Gibraltar people would do without this hotel, 
 for it fulfils a most important and interesting des- 
 tiny. Here the newly-wedded, of all grades of 
 society, sacrifice to the cold etiquette of the 
 world, their first week or two of married life. 
 They should bo all in all to each other, for in 
 this solitude they will find little to interfere with 
 the proper concentration of their thoughts. 
 
 From St. Roque, it is an easy ride to the cork- 
 wood, and convent of Almoraima. Those who 
 have been long in Gibraltar, talk of the cork- 
 wood most enthusiastically ; to them it is the 
 perfection of Sylvan scenery ; the simple truth 
 is, that there is notliing remarkable about it. 
 The timber is nearly all small, and dead or 
 dying under-brush, gives an air of desolation to 
 many parts of it. Here and there, where the 
 timber is thin, a few peeps of green grass, and 
 sunshiny glades are visible, — that is all. 
 
OIBRALTAR. 
 
 73 
 
 The goal to be reached, is the convent of 
 Almoraima, now deserted, except by a solitary 
 Priest, exiled thither, it is said for his sins ; and 
 an amazing colony of little boys and girls. 
 The question of paternity might be a curious 
 subject of enquiry, but there, at any rate, they 
 are. The Priest officiates, occasionally, to a 
 small congregation, of about thirty or forty pea- 
 sants, from the neighbouring forest ; he is not 
 allowed to preach, but simply to perform mass. 
 In a small room, used as a granary, are a few 
 old books, the home of myriads of insects, and 
 literally crumbling into dust, which have been 
 well thumbed by the old monks of former days, 
 but are not rare enough to be valuable to the book 
 collector. Dogs, cats, and innumerable vermin 
 overrun the whole place, which is a pitiable 
 scene of desolation. An old tower, also a ruin, 
 about a hundred yards from the convent, is the 
 only other object within sight. The train of 
 thought, which such buildings, in such a situa- 
 tion su^^gest, is most painful. 
 
 The streets of St. Roque are clean, the houses 
 white, and every window in the place is defended 
 by strong iron bars, or gratings, painted a bright 
 green. The view over the country is extensive, 
 but barrenness is its chief characteristic ; long 
 lines of stony hills, whose sides are partially 
 covered with dark woods, stretch in every 
 
■ I 
 
 74 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 I 
 
 ,! r 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 ■.»'■■ 
 
 ;. 
 
 ill 
 
 direction, as is nature, so are the people, wild, 
 rugged, and torpid. 
 
 Andalusia is however acknowledged to be by 
 those who know it best, the China of Europe. 
 All without it are, in the estimation of its people 
 "barbarians;" j^rejudice, ignorance, and self- 
 conceit, are the component parts of their '* great 
 wall." This singular self-conceit has prevented 
 any material influence being exercised over 
 them by the immediate propinquity of Cxibraltar; 
 though it must be confessed that propagandism 
 of any kind, either political or religious, is .stu- 
 diously discountenanced by the Gibraltar autho- 
 rities. This censorship is carried to the very 
 verge of tyranny. No public meeting to discuss 
 a local grievance is allowed, and the Gibraltar 
 Chronicle, the only newspaper published on the 
 rock, is subject to the most rigid examination on 
 tlie part of two octogenarian officials. Nj origi- 
 nal matter is allowed to appear in it, except it 
 be the different " garrison orders," which are at 
 times orginal enough ; all else is mere scissors 
 work. It is in consequence, a poor shrivelled 
 anatomy, the sort of thing an Englishman ex- 
 pects to find in a caf^ in Rome or Naples, or 
 possibly Vienna. In Gibraltar, liberty does not 
 exist ; cedant arma togce^ is reversed. The senti. 
 nels warn you off this place, and that ; at night 
 after 12 o'clock, a ''pass" and a lamp arencces- 
 
GIBRALTAR. 
 
 75 
 
 sary, as you walk along the streets, under pen- 
 alty of an hour or two in one of the guard houses, 
 unless an officer in uniform be with yoa, or you 
 are bold enough to shout out " Officer" in gruff 
 and disciplinarian tones. The officials in the civil 
 departments have ^'passes" issued to them, 
 which saves them from this nuisance, but a 
 mere visitor is sadly annoyed by it. 
 
 It is not therefore a matter of suprise, that Pro- 
 testantism has not gained many converts, edu- 
 cation much advanced, or that the Spaniards 
 cling as tenaciously as ever to every national 
 habit. 
 
 At Algeciras on the Spanish shore of the bay, 
 the same laisez alter state of things exists. The 
 population of the Town is large, (at least 10,000 
 people), and the trade considerable for Spain ; 
 yet there is no harbour, and only a few stones 
 carelessly thrown together as a landhig place 
 for passengers, although a toll of a *' quarto" has 
 been for some years paid by each person for the 
 express purpose of building a good pier. This 
 toll has doubtless shared the fate of most others 
 in this country, that is, been embezzled in its 
 transit from the payers to the treasury. 
 
 Algeciras is well worth a visit, and those who 
 have not seen the more inland townsof Andalusia, 
 will be struck with the semi-oriental character 
 of the place and people. The streets are badly 
 
 % 
 

 76 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 I'll 
 
 paved and very dirty, but the houses are clean, 
 immaculately stuccoed and adorned with elabo- 
 rately worked iron balconies and lattices. This 
 is the great peculiarity of the Andalusian towns ; 
 every window is barred like a prison, but so 
 brilliant is the green paint, with which the iron 
 tracery is covered, that the eifect is by no 
 means sombre. The Andalusians delight in 
 gaudy colours ; red, blue, green, and every shade 
 of yellow adorn their " plazas ;" even the sentry 
 boxes are often striped with these colours, and 
 glitter like a Harlequin's coat in the sunshine. 
 
 The Alameda is pretty, the fruit markets 
 worth a glance, the bull ring, or plaza de toros 
 very good, and the Aqueduct, which spans a 
 little valley close to the town, is light and grace- 
 ful. 
 
 A very tiny steamer plys between Algeciras 
 and Gibraltar This little cockle shell is really 
 quite a curiosity. The crew consist of a man to 
 steer, and two little boys. 
 
 Gibraltar has of late years become a rather 
 fashionable place of resort during the winter 
 months ; but the climate dm'ing the early spring 
 months is variable, while its isolated situation 
 makes it subject to high winds, and particularly 
 to a damp depressing east wind which is very 
 unhealthy to many persons. At the south end 
 of the rock this " Levanto" is much less scnsi- 
 
 
 ill! 
 
\ 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 77 
 
 
 bly folt than within the walla of the town. The 
 range of the thermometer is generally slight, 
 for the temperature ; ;:^es not change so much as 
 the character of the weather. Nothing can be 
 more different than the muggy Levante and the 
 pure northerly breeze. And again the air at 
 the south wheVe a new hotel has lately been 
 established, (by Robert, late head waiter at the 
 Club house), differs essentially from that at the 
 north end of the rock, and I mu^t say I consider 
 it much nore healthy. Those who through ill 
 health a*e alive to atmospheric changes, will 
 not find the climate so good as that of Madeira, 
 but certainly inferior to none in equality of 
 temperature in Europe. Others who are merely 
 delicate, without being positive invalids, will 
 find much to amuse the mind, and nothing 
 (which is after all of some consequence) to re- 
 mind them that they are travelling for their 
 health. The life and excitement • " Gibraltar 
 is anything but valetudinarian. Hunting with 
 the Calpfe fox hounds,* pic-nics in the corkwood, 
 
 « 
 
 * The Calpe fox hounds are the great "resource" of Gib- 
 raltar idleness. They meet twice a week in th -• district round 
 St. Roque and the cork wood. There is very Tfvely a blank 
 day, the fault generally is that the foxes are two numerous, 
 and the scent becomes crossed. At times when the " meet" 
 is at the " first venta" and the fox takes across t' open ground 
 near St. R'^ue, the field is quite exciting; but if the_ fox 
 
78 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 or at the '^".torfall behind Algesiras, billiards 
 and the racket court, with an hour or t v< » spent 
 in leading the papers and books in the udmirablo 
 garrison library, pass the day pleasantly away. 
 The funds of this library are in a very flourishing 
 condition, and there is scarcely a book, news- 
 paper, or review, which is not bought or taken in. 
 Strangers are allowed (upon introduction by a 
 member) free access to it as long as they Si ay, 
 even for 4 or 5 months. 
 
 No one can leave Gibraltar without paying 
 a just tribute to the kindness and hospitality 
 which he is certain to receive there from all 
 classes. In my case it would be most unpardon- 
 able to do so ; and should these pages meet the 
 eye of any of my kind friends in Gibraltar, let 
 them Lf- ansured that it will be long before they 
 are fbrgo^ton by one, who during several long 
 visits to the rock, has uniformily been welcomed 
 as a friend. 
 
 makes for the corkwood, it requires an enthusiast in the sport, 
 fP derive pleasure from it. A good many men mount Pink, 
 and turn out in other respects very creditably. The Spanish 
 farmers send in a good bill every year for alleged damage,-— 
 and think the English mad. 
 
 ■ li 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 79 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 CADIZ. — SITUATION OF THI ErTERNAL 
 
 AND INTERNAL APPEARANCE.— HOI .SE. 
 
 SQUARES. PUBLIC GARDENS. DRI "ECULIAB 
 
 HATS WORN BY THE CLERGY. — TEATRO PKl NCI- 
 PALE. BOLERO. DISCOMFORT OF SPANISH 
 
 HOUSES IN BAD WEATHER. XEREZ. SHERRY 
 
 WINES. PORT ST. MARY's. SAN LUCAR. BO- 
 NANZA. STEAMIER TO SEVILLE. ^APPROACH TO 
 
 THAT CITY. THE '' GIRALDA," AND CATHE- 
 DRAL. HOLY WEEK AND CEREMONIES. THE 
 
 ALCAZAR. — TOBACCO FACTORY. EXCHANGE. 
 
 CEMETERY. EASTER SUNDAY. BULL FIGHT AND 
 
 OPERA. MUSEUM. CAEIDAD. APPEARANCE OF 
 
 THE CITY AND PEOPLE. CLIMATE. MODE OF 
 
 SPENDING THE DAY IN ANDALUSIA. — RELIGION. 
 
 GAMBLING. — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 T^ROM Gibraltar to Cadiz the passage was fine, 
 and about six in the morning we were at an- 
 chor off the white walls of the latter place. The 
 sun rose beautifully, gilding the houses and towers 
 of this water washed city, pure to the eye as the 
 rolling breakers which were foaming around its 
 walls. The bay was crowded with shipping, 
 and as the morning advanced, boat after boat 
 spread their sails and careered over its placid 
 
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 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 
 
 (716) 873-4503 
 
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 CADIZ. 
 
 surface. Except a distant range of hills to the 
 east, the shores of the bay are flat ; the city it- 
 self is therefore the spot cu which the eye rests 
 instinctively. Nothing can exceed the beauty 
 of its position. A long narrow spit of land juts 
 out into the sea, and widens at the extreme point ; 
 on this bulb (as it were) stands the city, sur- 
 rounded by massive walls against which the sea 
 breaks with great fory. The approach on the 
 land side is exceedingly narrow and is very 
 strongly defended. From these outworks, to the 
 light-house, the city is about ' a mile-and-a-half 
 long, and adorned throughout with massive glit- 
 tering domes and towers, many of which are sur- 
 roimded by streaming Consular flags. The 
 houses are flat-roofed, high, and beautifully 
 clean. Towards the bay, Cadiz, although a 
 small city, looks very metropolitan ; on the side 
 towards the Atlantic, and facing the light-house, 
 all is depopulated and ruinous ; masses of stone 
 lie in confused heaps, around 'rapidly decaying 
 buildings ; there is no sign of life or animation, 
 except a solitary sentry, or a few mules lazily 
 cropping the grass, which here and there grows 
 out of the sandy soil. 
 
 The city id fortified, but the fortifications axe, 
 in many places, crumbling to pieces with neglect, 
 and, on the south side, are so undermined, that, 
 had they not originally been constructed of 
 
 '■ ! : . J 
 
 "•^SWirSffiSlBSasa* 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 m 
 
 rs 
 
 immense thickness, would long ago have been 
 destroyed by so encroaching and persevering an 
 enemy, as the sea. Few of the cannon are 
 mounted, nor are the walls protected by any 
 parapet. What a contrast is this, to a traveller, 
 from Gibraltar, where everything connected 
 with the defences is in the most perfect order, 
 and the condition of every gun is inspected 
 twice during each day. 
 
 On landing at the Custom-house a rather 
 vigorous search was made, as people from 
 Gibraltar are always suspected of smuggling. 
 This operation took some time and would have 
 been annoying had it not been for the amuse- 
 ment derived from watching a queer looking 
 old feshioned mongrel dog, who squatted down 
 close to each parcel of luggage, peered into 
 every portmanteau that was opened, smelt 
 everything, and wandered on from package to 
 package with the examining officer as metho- 
 dically as though he were really a sentient being, 
 and performing an important duty. At length 
 about ten o'clock we were able to sit down to 
 a richly earned breakfast at the Europa hotel. 
 Cadiz is strictly a commercial city, and has 
 little to recommend it to the sight seer, — ^the 
 streets are straight, narrow and indijfferently 
 paved, but look remarkably well, when the 
 sun shines on the upper story of the houses, 
 
 F 
 
82 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 casting every here and there through an opening 
 a brilliant flood of light, while the lower stories 
 and the pavement are in deep shadow. The 
 profusion of green yellow and red paint then 
 produces a very fine effect. 
 
 The houses are high and richly adorned both 
 within and without. Those of the better kind 
 are usually constructed with a handsome en- 
 trance, at one end of which is an elaborately 
 worked iron gate, giving access to the " Patio" 
 or court, generally ornamented by a fountain 
 in the centre, and orange trees or evergreens 
 ranged around it. It is always paved with 
 variegated marble, and frequently enriched with 
 Arabesque work and paintings hanging on the 
 walls. In houses of any pretension, marble 
 galleries surround the quadrangle on each floor. 
 The top of the ^' Patio" is open, there being no 
 sky lights or roof of any kind to it. When it 
 rains therefore it falls into the court below, and 
 into the galleries, making the house in rainy 
 weather very damp and wretched. Sometimes 
 the galleries are protected from this discomfort 
 by a screen of glass windows running round 
 them, but even then the wet " Patio" throws 
 a chill over the whole house. If you desire 
 warmth you must go out of doors, for^ within 
 all is damp and cold. 
 
 In Southern Spain the houses are built with 
 
 
^r 
 
 id 
 
 pe 
 in 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 83 
 
 the sole object of making them cool. A pro- 
 fussion of marble and stone is therefore used, 
 while every part of the house is very substan- 
 tially constructed j indeed the walls are of enor- 
 mous thickness, and the floors supported on 
 beams, more like trees then mere planks. The 
 ceilings are not usually white- washed. There are 
 no fire places, and in the winter months I know 
 few places more comfortless than a Spanish 
 house, which however is always scrupulously 
 clean ; no slight merit. In the winter the family 
 occupy the upper rooms, and during the sum- 
 mer heats descend to the ground floor for cool- 
 ness. 
 
 The shops are good, but little or nothing m 
 done by the shopkeeper to gain custom by out- 
 ward show. Plate glass, gaudy paint, eccentric 
 sign boards and the various expensive trickeries 
 of pushing tradesmen are here unknown. The 
 Spaniards are careful of their goods and hope 
 little from the passing wayfarer ; the best shops 
 are known to all. 
 
 Donkeys laden with all sorts of rubbish and 
 covered with tinkling bells are almost always 
 to be seen and heard, crawling along in single 
 file over the rough pavement. The Spaniards 
 carry everything in plaited rush baskets, either 
 on their own heads, or the backs of their 
 donkeys or mules. A wheelbarrow is not to be 
 
i n 
 
 M I 
 
 84 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 found in Spain, and carts are comparatively 
 few ; all agricultural labourers in Andalusia use 
 these little baskets, and the bricklayers and 
 stone masons carry about in the same receptacles 
 the various materials of their trade. I saw 
 about 100 of these men at work upon a new 
 ** Plaza de Toros" or biUl ring, and was much 
 amused at the small amount of labour performed 
 by them. 
 
 Water is carried about in immense earthen- 
 ware jars ; Agu-a-a-a ! Agu-a-a-a ! resounds 
 through the streets at all hours. The jar is 
 placed on a leather pad on the left shoulder ; 
 the right hand is held in an upright position, 
 and grasps a handle near the top ; the left arm 
 hangs downward at the side. A more painful 
 mode of carrying a heavy dead weight for a 
 lengthened period can scarcely be imagined ; 
 the whole body is placed in a constrained posi- 
 tion. Two or three tin measures are sus- 
 pended to a belt round the waist, and hang on 
 the left hip. 
 
 The streets are lit with gas, and the watch- 
 men make a more than usual noise. " Ave 
 Maria purissima" together with the hour of the 
 night, and whether fine or the reverse, breaks 
 the silence almost without intermission.* 
 
 * The best proof of the fineness of the climate is that the 
 watchmen are called " serenos" from their almost always cal- 
 ling out this word instead of " nobJado" which means rainy. 
 
 ^.^fellH!:.! 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 85 
 
 The city abounds in public squares, and by- 
 far the most handsome is that of San Antonio. 
 One of them, I forget which, is beautifully paved 
 with variegated marble, laid down according 
 to a regular design. In some of the squares, 
 vines are trained to trees and lamp-posts, while 
 an arched frame work covered with the same 
 plant, affords relief to the eye, and forms a 
 cool and agreeable walk. Benches for the weary 
 also abound, while good Caf^s and restaurants 
 offer refreshment to those who desire it. Much 
 therefore is done to render an open air life in a 
 torrid clime agreeable to the inhabitants of 
 Cadiz. 
 
 The public gardens are by no means exten- 
 sive, or well laid out, but a stroll through the 
 most frequented places of resort, in all large 
 cities, is always entertaining to a traveller. 
 There is little or no peculiarity in the dress of 
 the Spanish gentleman, were it hot for the 
 cloak, his costume would pass unnoticed, in the 
 " Champs Elysees." But as much has been 
 said about the beauty of the ladies of Cadiz, 
 they must not be dismissed so cavalierly. — Do 
 they deserve the excessive praise so lavishly be- 
 stowed ? I think not. Dark and carefully 
 arranged hair, and bright piercing eyes, are 
 their chief beauty. The features are not very 
 regular, nor is their complexion good. Their 
 
I 
 
 se 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 walk is unrivalled in grace, and the costume of 
 black silk, with lace mantilla, and veil thrown 
 over the head, sets off their figures, and accords 
 well with their sallow complexion. Dress a 
 Spanish lady in any other colour than black, 
 and want of harmony is instantly perceptible. 
 What too, are you to do with the fan? and 
 what is a Spanish lady without it ? with French 
 fashions it is out of place, it both requires and 
 forms a pleasing adjunct to the national costume. 
 It is notorious, that the Spanish ladies, make 
 their fan do the duty of conversation ; it is made 
 to speak, when the language of signs is more 
 prudent than that of the lips ; but at the same 
 time, I cannot help thinking, that the incessant 
 motion of these pretty but noisy adjuncts to the 
 n'ational costume, is meaningless, the effect of 
 habit and nervousness, rather than design. ; 
 The clergy wear most peculiar beaver hats, 
 rolled up like wafer biscuits ; these hats are 
 about two feet six inches long, and give the 
 wearer the head of a pelican. Cadiz was for- 
 merly a very gay city, but is not so noW' 
 Those who are fond of pictures or sculpture 
 will not linger long here. There are very few 
 good pictures, the best is the last work of 
 Murillo, in the Capuchin convent, not as Mr. 
 Ford says, in his guide book, in the " Francis- 
 can ;" a rare instance of error in tliat valuable 
 
 ! 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 87 
 
 work, where errors however trifling, are 
 few. 
 
 The Teatro Principale is large, and capitally 
 arranged ; the pit is divided into rows of arm 
 chairs, showily covered with red plush or velvet, 
 and easily accessible, by means of three ap- 
 proaches, cutting them transversely, — each seat 
 has a number. What a contrast is this, to the 
 dirty benches of a pit, in an English theatre ! 
 Why is it necessary to surrender, to the drinkers 
 of lemonade and ginger-beer, the best part of 
 the house? Is it not possible, nay probable, 
 that by improving the accommodation, you 
 would raise the character of those who occupy 
 it ? As it was the last week in Lent, the theatre 
 was nearly deserted ; not more than three or 
 four ladies were in the house ; the performance 
 was far from good, and the performers, both 
 men and women, spit in every direction on the 
 stage ; a dirty habit which I have neven seen 
 practised in any other theatre in Europe. A 
 *' Bolero" followed the first piece, and was suc- 
 ceeded by a farce. — The " Bolero " is thus 
 described by Ford, whose bright flowing lan- 
 guage, needs no apology for its insertion. ' ' This 
 is la salsa de la comedia,^^ the essence, the cream, 
 the sauce piquante of the night's entertainment, 
 it is attempted to be described in every book of 
 travels, but who can describe sound or motion ? 
 
88 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 ! II 
 
 it must be seen. However languid the house, 
 laughable the tragedy, or serious the comedy, 
 the soimd of the castanet awakens the most 
 listless ; the sharp spirit-stirring click, is heard 
 behind the scenes, the effect is instantaneous, it 
 creates life under the ribs of death, it silences 
 the tongues of countless women, on n*ecoute que 
 le balht. Tlie curtain draws up, the bounding 
 pair dart forward from the opposite scenes, like 
 two separated lovers, who after long search, have 
 found each other again. The glitter of the gos- 
 samer costume of the Majo and Maja, invented 
 for the dance, the sparkle of gold lace and silver 
 filagree, adds to the lightness of their motions ; 
 the transparent form — designing " saya, " 
 heightens the charms of a faultless symmetry, 
 which it would fain conceal. No cruel stays 
 fetter a serpentine flexibility. They pause, bend 
 forward an instant, prove their supple limbs and 
 arms; the band strikes up, they turn fondly 
 towards each other, and start into life. The 
 accompaniment of the castanets gives employ- 
 ment to their upraised arms. C^est le pantomime 
 (f Amour. The enamoured youth, fiie coy, co- 
 quettish woman, who shall describe the advance, 
 the timid retreat, his eager pursuit ? Now they 
 gaze at each other, now on the ground, — ^now 
 all is life, love, and action ; now there is a pause, 
 — they stop motionless in a moment, and grow 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 80 
 
 into the earth ; it carries all before it. There 
 is a truth which overpowers the fastidious judg- 
 ment. There is nothing indecent in the dance ; 
 one is never the worse for having seen it. 
 
 During my stay at Cadiz it rained incessantly, 
 what more can be said against a Spanish city ? 
 Every imaginable discomfort crowds upon you ; 
 the spirits are depressed, the air is heavy as lead, 
 clouds of hot vaporous steam, rise from the 
 streets ; there is nothing to be done, and still 
 less to be seen. No woman leaves her house, 
 and the men cower, cloak-covered and wretched, 
 under huge red, blue, and yellow umbrellas. 
 London, on a wet day, is triste enough ; but a 
 city of Southern Spain, is worse. 
 
 Not to pay a visit to Xerez, would be unpar- 
 donable, the height of ingratitude ; he who 
 could neglect this almost filial duty, would 
 deserve to be put upon a course of Marsala and 
 Cape for the rest of his life. You cross, by 
 steamer, to Puerto Santa Maria, and thence by 
 " Diligence," to the town of Xerez. 
 
 ** The " bodegas" or stores, (cellars they can 
 hardly be called as they are above ground) are 
 very well worth a visit. The wines of the dif- 
 ferent vintages are mixed up together, some 
 correcting the others until the proper flavour 
 is procured. In the " bodega" a tolerable wine 
 is worth about £25 or £30 a butt to the trade, 
 
no 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 Ill: 
 
 but the same wine would not be wold to a private 
 person under £40 or £50 ; then there is the 
 duty and freight, the bottling and two or three 
 different profits to be made out of it, before it 
 roaches the English consumer ; it is therefore 
 quite impossible that really genuine wine can 
 ever bo sold in England under 40s. or 50s. a 
 dozen. 
 
 I was detained at Cadiz four days expecting 
 the boat from Seville ; but no boat came. I 
 then decided upon going by way of Port St. 
 Mary's, and the diligence or *' Gondola" to 
 San Lucar, and thence embark in the steamer 
 for Seville ; but in this plan also was disap- 
 pointed, as the bay was shrouded for two days 
 in a heavy fog, and no boat would in conse- 
 quence start fertile '' Puerto." The Spaniards 
 are in those matters exceedingly timid, punctu- 
 ality is never to be expected from them. It is 
 characteristic too, to call their Diligences 
 ** Gondolas," for these vehicles are so uneasy 
 that women are sometimes on bad roads (and 
 few are good in Spain) made literally sick in 
 them, vomiting as wretchedly as though they 
 were stowed away in the dark close ladies cabin 
 of a steamer in a gale of wind. 
 
 The boat at length started, and at eleven 
 o'clock reached the Puerto. The entrance to the 
 river is dangerous, as tlie Ijar at tlio mouth has 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 01 
 
 n heavy surf rollinf^ over it. The town of Port 
 St. Mary's is prottily situated on tlio riglit bank 
 of tlio rivor Guadaira, has a capital hotel, and 
 I should think almost the only suspension bridge 
 in Spain. It is the chief })laco of export for 
 sherry wines. I visited the '* bodega" of the 
 English Vice Consul, and there tasted wines of 
 all prices from £25 to £150 the butt. 
 
 The Gondola (built exactly on the plan of a 
 French diligence) started at two o'clock for 
 " San Lucar." Eight small horses were at- 
 tached, driven by one man with the assistance 
 of a postilion riding on the off leader, and a 
 boy to run by the side of the horses to stimulate 
 them with a short st^'^k when lazy. The har- 
 ness is very old fashioned and a strange jumble 
 of leather, iron and rope. Horses are not 
 bitted in Spain, but instead of this a very 
 severe bar of iron is passed over the front bone 
 of the head a little above the nostrils. Severe 
 gashes, which are scarcely ever healed, are the 
 consequence. Spanish horses shy a good deal 
 and are very fidgetty. The pace of the Gon- 
 dola on this road is about four miles an hour. 
 The road is over a level uninteresting plain, and 
 is a good one for Spain. The distance is eleven 
 miles. St. Lucar is situated at the mouth of the 
 
 Guadalquiver, 
 offensive open 
 
 has some 
 drains in 
 
 good houses, most 
 the middle of the 
 
il 
 
 HI 
 
 1 I;. 
 :l5V 
 
 i 
 I 
 
 
 92 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 streets, two or three handsome churches, and a 
 decent " Fonda." That is all that can be said 
 of it. Here another day was lost as no boax 
 left for Seville. During the morning I strolled 
 along the bank of the river to Bonanza ; the 
 shores are flat and tame, and little is to be seen 
 but sand and a few pine trees. The weather 
 was exceedingly hot. 
 
 The village of Bonanza, consists of a large 
 custom-house, a pier, a posada, and a few one- 
 storied houses, rien deplus. The place however, 
 may be said to be, in some measure, the port of 
 Seville. One or two English vessels, and a good 
 many feluccas, and other small craft, were lying 
 off the pier. Bonanza lies about two miles above 
 San Lucar, on the same side of the river. No 
 one can see the shores of this stream, and the 
 paltry villages along its banks, without some 
 interest ; barren and wretched, as it now is, it 
 is yet historic ground, and this, without going 
 back to times, where history is the mere reflex 
 of tradition, where fable and truth are so inter- 
 mingled, that the mind knows not what to 
 receive, and what to reject. To me, the know- 
 ledge that the land on which my foot now rested, 
 had often been pressed by the feet of Columbus 
 and his daring followers, invested the scene, 
 dreary though it was, with intense interest. 
 The world owes those men much, and no En- 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 93 
 
 glishman can bo insensible to the fact, that his 
 nation has profited most from them. 
 
 At length the long expected steamer made 
 her appearance, and at eleven in the morning I 
 embarked for Seville, where we arrived at half- 
 past three, having made a very rapid passage, 
 in a good comfortable boat. The shores of the 
 river are flat, and inhabited solely by a few 
 people engaged in the salt monopoly; huge 
 pyramidal glittering piles of which useftd con- 
 diment line the banks of the stream ; wild fowl 
 rose in flocks, as the boat approached them, and 
 an eagle or two soared in slow, but majestic 
 flight, over the dreary waste. 
 
 The stream soon divides into two channels, 
 forming islands, called " Isola Mayor," and 
 "Menor;" here, immense herds of cattle and 
 and horses grazed on the purple marshes, and 
 a few trees and cultivated spots enlivened the 
 scene. 
 
 About five miles fi'om Seville, the left bank 
 of the river rises, as usual convent-crowned, and 
 covered with orange and olive trees, resembling, 
 on a rather smaller scale, the bank of the Saone, 
 near Lyons. At this spot, the tall glittering 
 " Giralda," the marvel of Seville comes in sight, 
 and turning sharply to the right the boat slowly 
 passes under a tree covered bank, (one of the 
 Alamedas of Seville), and stops at a rather 
 
11 i 
 
 i 
 
 94 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 handsome tower called the Torre del Oro, near 
 which is tlie custom house ; — on the opposite 
 shore is the suburb of Triana, and a few small 
 craft were at anchor in the stream. The ap- 
 proach to Seville is not at all striking, the only- 
 commanding object being the Cathedral with 
 its tower ; all the rest is flat and tame. 
 
 A peseta or two again appeased the custom- 
 house officials, and in a few minutes we reached 
 the Europa hotel which merits some description. 
 Entering from the " Calle de Sierpes" or street 
 of serpents, you pass through a diligence office 
 and dirty passage, (with a by no means tempt- 
 ing view of kitchens and sculleries,) which leads 
 to a handsome court or '' patio" in which orange 
 and lemon trees flourish luxmiantly, and a 
 cool playing fountain delights the ear. The 
 " Patio" is entirely laid out as a garden, in one 
 compartment of which live a small colony of 
 hawks and bustards. This garden is surrounded 
 by a colonnade, supporting the story above ; 
 under this colonnade is the entrance to the 
 coffee-room or '* comedor," and several bed- 
 rooms also open out of it. Here too are benches 
 on which people recline, talking sociably or 
 lounging, while tables covered with wine, 
 oranges, and other light food, attract the hungry 
 or thirsty sight seer. The scene is gay and 
 amusing to v degree j no one can be dull in the 
 
CADIZ. 
 
 95 
 
 patio of the hotel Europa, provided it does not 
 rain. 
 
 Here also, a little dog played a rather im- 
 portant part in the domestic service of the hotel* 
 His office was that of turnspit, and two or three 
 hours of each day were spent by him inside a 
 broad wheel attached to the kitchen wall. He 
 did his duty methodically and apparently with 
 as much pleasure as squirrels or white mice 
 turn their wire cages. The forelegs of our 
 breed of dogs called " turnspit" are always very 
 much turned outwards, but this little animal 
 had no such peculiarity of formation. 
 
 The first visit of every stranger is to the 
 cathedral, and the tower of the '* Giralda" 
 attached to it. After passing through an old 
 Moorish arch, which although mutilated, has 
 still survived the many modem restorers who 
 have exercised their individual tastes upon it, 
 you enter a paved court planted as usual with 
 rows of orange trees, while a fountain throws 
 its white column of water among the green 
 leaves, and patters musically on the surrounding 
 stones ; above, the dark mass of the cathedral 
 rises in grandeur, with the moorish tower of 
 the ' Giralda' to the left, rearing its tall grace- 
 ful form in marked contrast to the heavy gloomy 
 mass, to which it is now adjacent. This tower 
 was built in 1196, and was then attached to a 
 
r*i^'#^ 
 
 96 
 
 CADIZ. 
 
 ! i 
 
 I iiMlW 
 
 mosque. It is a square of forty-four feet, each 
 side embellished with intersecting arches and 
 elaborate tracery, rising to a height of 250 feet; 
 to which has subsequently been added, in the 
 purest taste, a characteristic belfry, 100 feet 
 higher. The pinnacle of the belfry is crowned 
 with a figure of '' Faith," in bronze, fourteen 
 feet high, to which is attached a huge and very 
 ugly vane. It would not be easy to over-praise 
 this entrancing work, which is confessedly a 
 model of true proportion and grace, and he must 
 be bold indeed who would venture even to 
 criticize it. I will only say, that long wander- 
 ings in many lands, abounding in aU that is 
 most beautiful in architecture, have shewn me 
 nothing more characteristically lovely, than this 
 Moorish tower. 
 
 The ascent is peculiarly easy ; a gradually 
 sloping path winding round the interior, 
 leads to the top of the square part of the 
 tower. The ascent above this in the belfry is 
 by a crooked winding staircase. The view is 
 surprisingly beautiful. The whole city lies 
 around you, — glittering in the level green 
 pastoral plain in which it stands like a huge 
 pearl set in emeralds. The river flows between 
 it, and the suburb of '' Triana," and Moorish 
 walls hem it in on the land side. The city has 
 no long stragpi-ling suburbs ; few are the houses 
 
 I 
 
 "•v-vHfwqtwin 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 97 
 
 even at the present time without the walls. On 
 all sides it terminates abruptly, and is met by 
 the open fields. The little narrow streets turn, 
 twist, and writhe about in all directions : regu- 
 larity or xmiformity of design are nowhere 
 apparent. Open squares and public gardens — 
 domes and little towers, shining in all the glory 
 of blue, red, and yellow tiles, and fancifully 
 adorned patios — meet the eye everywhere. 
 The spectator is at a loss to say whether the 
 city below him is Oriental or European. In 
 truth, it is a compound of French, Italian, 
 Spanish, and Moorish — all strangely blended 
 together. 
 
 On the side of Triana, a tolerably high range 
 of hills, three or four miles from the river, bound 
 the view, and, to the north, the range of the 
 Sierra Morena rears its brown crest to the sky. 
 To the south the most prominent building is a 
 new palace for the Duke de Montpensier and 
 the Infanta. In taste, this building is utterly 
 barbarous ; but, nevertheless, the general effect, 
 placed where it is, amidst green trees, is pleas- 
 ing. Near it lies the huge square tobacco 
 manufactory, where, according to the guide, 
 books, 3,500 daughters of Seville roll cigars, and 
 send forth piercing glances from their eyes, and 
 stinging words from their lips. Happy is he who 
 can pass the ordeal of their criticism unmoved. 
 
 G 
 
^1 
 
 
 il 
 
 l-.!i 
 
 i \ 
 
 I 
 
 98 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 Close to the cathedral are the Lonja, or Ex- 
 change — a building without merit or trade — 
 and the Cardinal Archbishop's palace; while the 
 eye dwells with delight upon the ** Alcazar" 
 and its lovely gardens. 
 
 Descending and entering the cathedral by 
 the door near the " Giralda," and gradually 
 becoming accustomed to the subdued light, not 
 to say gloom, pervading the whole edifice, the 
 traveller finds himself in a huge, oblong, massive 
 pile — impressive from its grandeur, but neither 
 elegant nor complete. Beautifully painted win- 
 dows cast their varied tints over the pillars and 
 aisles ; dark figures flit across the gloomy space, 
 or kneel by some shadowy column, or glitter- 
 ing shrine : the voices of the choir, and the 
 swelling tones of the gigantic organs, come in 
 solemn cadences to his ear, make him tread 
 the marble pavement with a feeling of awe, and 
 be conscious that, Protestant or Catholic, he is, 
 indeed, in the house of God. 
 
 The edifice stands on the exact site of the old 
 Mosque, and is quadlilateral in form — 396 feet 
 long, 291 wide. The Mosque was pulled down 
 in 1401, and this cathedralwas opened for divine 
 service in 1519. The height of the transepts is 
 160 feet. Except in the centre, around the high 
 altar, the church is plain. There, all that art 
 can do, is done, to embellish and enrich. The 
 
 
 •f y ^ v-nif ■3s<s* m 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 99 
 
 large organs, forming a side of the choir, rise a 
 mass of marble and mahogany carving almost 
 to the roof. The light is skilfully brought down 
 to the altar ; w^hilo all around is a perpetual 
 twilight, except wliero, here and there, a pink or 
 purple light struggles feebly through the gloom. 
 
 During the holy week, the paintings, except 
 some old ones (valueless, or nearly so), in the 
 side chapels, are closely covered up; but I believe 
 it is not rich in this respect. The side chapels 
 are so dark, that it is almost impossible to see 
 what they contain. There are five aisles ; the 
 centre aisle and the transept being much more 
 lofty than the others. Each side has the usual 
 row of little chapels branching off from the main 
 building. The style is Gothic. None can 
 visit this building without a feeling of admira- 
 tion. Every one must admit, that neither a 
 niggard purse, nor barbarous taste, erected it. 
 All is grand, harmonious, solemn. The exterior 
 is altogether without interest, and deformed on 
 one side by a heavy, ugly pile, attached to the 
 main building, and used as a parish church. 
 
 The next day was Palm Sunday. The cere- 
 monies commenced early in the morning by the 
 Archbishop blessing the Palms. All day, fune- 
 ral services were performed in the cathedral 
 and various churches, and in the afternoon, at 
 five o'clock, the jyrand procession of the day 
 
 u2 
 
l\ 
 
 ICO 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 began to move. In tho moantimo, the balconies 
 in the Calle de Sierpes^ and the various plazas 
 and streets through which it was to pass, were 
 thronged with gaily dressed ladies; while below, 
 rows of chairs were placed along the sides of 
 the pavement — all prettily filled with the 
 charming Sevillanas. At the same time, crowds 
 of people, of both sexes, strolled up and down — 
 a dense moving mass — such as is the " Corso," 
 at Rome, during the Carnival. The scene was 
 exciting and gay. Nearly all the ladies wore 
 the national costume, and looked marvellously 
 well J while hero and there a few bonnets, did all 
 they could, to render their wearers as ugly as 
 l)0ssible. 
 
 The procession was heralded by a file of sol- 
 diers ; lifter whom came, two abreast, holding 
 aloft, huge lighted candles, some twenty men, 
 (penitents), dressed in towering conical black 
 hats, with masks over the face, and black gar- 
 ments bound round the waist by a yellow sash. 
 These were succeeded by about the same num- 
 ber of persons dressed in a similar costume, 
 (except that it was white), with here and there 
 a few men carrying small unlighted candles, 
 dressed simply in black clothes, and bareheaded. 
 After this came a huge car, with a figure 
 representing our Saviour riding on an ass, and 
 other full-length figures grouped around him ; 
 
 .•,ipemiSS»tfm*» '^ v. it^ ^v>'e 0r ^ mK a mmm 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 101 
 
 tawdry looking and mean : like tho second hand 
 fancy drosses at a costume shop in London. 
 Then tho same repetition of candles and black 
 and white clothed persons, and another car borne 
 on tho slioulders of twenty or thirty men, repre- 
 senting our Saviour being led away bound, by 
 soldiers, from the presence of Pilate. After this a 
 band of bad music, followed by another car, with 
 the crucified Saviour hanging to the cross — a hor- 
 rible and heartrending figure — which could not 
 bo regarded without a shudder. During the 
 progress of the procession, I watched eagerly for 
 any symptom of devotional feeling on the part 
 of the spectators, but could not detect the 
 slightest indication of it. All seemed to think 
 they were como there to assist in a show, and to 
 admire, and be admired : nothing more. 
 
 The next part of the procession consisted of 
 candles, and black and white costumed figures, 
 with two fiddles and a clarionet, and a few men 
 and boys chanting some sacred music very ill ; 
 worse than a village band in a village church, 
 where there is no organ : then came another 
 car, with a canopy, under which was the 
 Virgin gorgeously arrayed in crimson and 
 jewels, with a long black robe hanging from 
 her slioulders, and by her side another figure ; 
 but whom it was intended to represent I could 
 not Icaru. This was succeeded by a few. 
 
'' ' ""J 
 
 102 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 soldiers, followed by a canopied car, on which 
 flowers had been thrown from the balconies. 
 This car was ornamented with a great number 
 of lighted candles in silver candlesticks, behind 
 which was a covered tomb. A few more soldiers 
 closed the procession, which occupied, in pass- 
 ing, about an hour and a half To mo, the whole 
 affair was a tawdry burlesque of a most sacred 
 subject, tending to cast ridicule on those hal- 
 lowed persons, whose history we are taught to 
 consider, with humble, unaffected piety, and 
 complete respect. 
 
 It is possible that the very lowest orders of 
 Spaniards may be affected proj)erly by such an 
 exhibition ; but I cannot believe it could have 
 any such effect on the well-educated ; and no 
 such feeling was apparent to the eye. Should 
 this be the case, how great is the sin of those 
 who parade through the streets, and make a 
 mere spectacle, of such passages in the life of 
 our Redeemer. 
 
 The next morning I attended at the cathedral, 
 to hear the service performed, during which, the 
 white curtain, before the high altar, is rent ; and 
 a discharge of artillery, from the roof of the 
 cathedral, takes place, emblematic of the ac- 
 count in the gospel of the day. The cathedral 
 was crowded with thousands of people, and the 
 voices of the officiating priests were good. The 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 103 
 
 music was solemn and simple ; while the group- 
 ing of the congregation, and their attitudes, 
 more than half Oriental, were picturesque in 
 the extreme. As soon as the pealing guns had 
 ceased to resound through the edifice, a flood of 
 light, from windows and opened doors, rushed 
 through the darkness, producing a ttartling 
 cff'ect. How well the Roman Catholics, of all 
 countries, comprehend how to afifect the mind, 
 by the medium of the senses and the imagina- 
 tion ! 
 
 From the cathedral I went to the Alcazar, the 
 most interesting sight in Seville — not excepting 
 Pilate's House — which is said to be an exact 
 copy of that in which Pilate dwelt, at Jerusalem. 
 It is the property of the Duke de Medina Coeli, 
 and is peculiarly rich in Azull^o tiles. 
 
 The Alcazar is entered through an open arch- 
 way, with a lion in frescoo, over the doorway, 
 and the inscription, ab utrumque, over it. Pass- 
 ing through a courtyard, a heavy mass of gild- 
 ing and fretwork, with a colonnade of Moorish 
 arches, and fine fragile-looking tracery, through 
 which the blue and yellow ornamented tiles 
 shine like precious stones, arrests the gaze. This 
 is the first intimation of the highly-wrought 
 decorations within. Tapping at a door, the 
 visitor passes at once into a scene of surpassing 
 interest. All around are roomS; corridors, and 
 

 104 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 J 
 
 I •', 
 
 patios, halls, and intersecting^ arches, covered 
 with the finest net-work, in stone and stucco : 
 varying shades of blue, purple, and green ; 
 gilding without end, and beautifully carved 
 doors, shutters, and ceilings. 
 
 All that the mind has conceived of Oriental 
 scenery and splendour, now takes a definite 
 shape : enough is around, to give reality to that 
 which was before mere abstraction or conjecture. 
 
 The Alcazar (which signifies a royal palace) 
 was built in the tenth and eleventh centuries^ 
 for Abderahman Anassir Liddin Allah. What 
 a name ! Subsequent sovereigns have greatly 
 altered it, and portions are still used (particu- 
 larly those fronting the gardens) by the present 
 royal family of Spain. These have beca laodeni- 
 ized, to suit the mode of life of the present day ; 
 but this alteration does not, however, much 
 interfere with the character of the greater part 
 of the building — particularly that portion of it 
 first seen. There, little strikes the eye, which 
 militates against the pm'ely Oriental character 
 of the place. An attempt to describe minutely 
 would utterly fail, nor does it come within the 
 scope of these sketches : besides, hath not Mur- 
 ray, and a shoal of others, rendered this quite 
 
 unnecessary. 
 
 The gardens ore ^ retty, but perfectly Italian 
 incharacter; laid v .< ^ n tut trcjs and box hedges, 
 
SEVnXE. 
 
 105 
 
 enclosing formal flowor bods, statu(>N, fountuinu, 
 fish-ponds, and raised terraces. The smell from 
 the orange blossoms, and other trees in flower^ 
 was most fragrant, and the balmy air, and warm 
 sunshine, r . \' an hour's stroll tlirough the 
 walks, li%iiA^ a^ieoable. 
 
 Oii r< tnri>ing, a barber surgeon's sign-board 
 iti'u<;k mo : on one side, was an extended arm, 
 IViJiii which a copious stream of blood was flow- 
 ing, into a basin full of the same liquid, and 
 painted a startling crimson ; on the other, a foot, 
 with a stream flowing from an open vein, by the 
 instep, into another basin below. The wholo 
 board looked very disgusting, and was so far 
 now to me, that I was not aware that the Spa- 
 nish barber surgeons bled in the foot as well as 
 the arm. 
 
 In the evening, the Lamentations of Jeremiah 
 were chaunted in the cathedral, beginning at 
 five o'clock. The service continued until nine, 
 when a miserere was played, and sung until ten ; 
 the doors were then clf):icd, and the large mul- 
 titude, who had thronj^«>d the building, slowly 
 di I'ursed. The sexes are not allowed to mingle 
 within its walls, but enter by separate doors, 
 and are kept apart, whon within, by strong iron 
 railings, and by vergors patrolling about. 
 During the service, from five until nine, the 
 chui'ch is quite darkened, and, it is alleged, that 
 
 %•■>■ 
 
I 
 
 i 
 
 106 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 Is 
 
 advantage was formerly taken of this, to enact 
 the most scandalous irregularities: so scandalous 
 as not to admit description upon paper ; and it 
 has, therefore, been found necessary to keep the 
 men and women apart. Had this statement not 
 been confirmed to me, on good Spanish authority, 
 I should have hesitated to believe, that any peo- 
 ple could, on such an occasion, be guilty of what 
 is alleged to have taken place ; at any rate, the 
 precautions now taken to prevent it, go far to 
 prove its having occurred. No signs of devotion, 
 among the people, were apparent ; they talked, 
 laughed, and moved about, as in the pit of a 
 theatre. An English pervert or convert (which- 
 ever is the right word), who, missal in hand, 
 knelt in evident devotion, was stared at by all 
 passers-by, as a singular and eccentric anomaly : 
 they had come to be excited and amused — not to 
 pray. The music and voiceswere both feeble and 
 indifferent ; and, notwithstanding the height of 
 the building, the state of the atmosphere was 
 oppressive, as well as offensive. I thought of — 
 and most cordially concurred ii — ^lorace's de- 
 nunciation of garlic, who thought it better 
 poison than henbane for a parricite — 
 
 " Parentis olim si quis impisl manu, 
 Senile guttur fregerit, 
 Edit cicutis allium nocentius." 
 
 At some of the churches, in the evening. 
 
 I 11 1 III II ^ W BMW^^W^ 
 
SEVIT.LE. 
 
 107 
 
 crowds of eager devotees flocked around an 
 image of the bleeding Saviour ; and taking off 
 necklaces, or rosaries, handed them to the priest, 
 who rubbed them quickly over the knees and 
 legs of the image, and then passed them back 
 again. This was done in the most business-like 
 manner ; the " quartos" were deposited in the 
 dish, and away went the poor deluded crea- 
 tures, poorer by a few pence, but doubtless satis- 
 fied that they had bought some t?^e, though 
 hidden, virtue. 
 
 The next morning, at nine o'clock, the cere- 
 mony of blessing and consecrating the holy oil 
 was performed by the Cardinal Archbishop, 
 assisted by four bishops, and an amazing con- 
 course of clergy. Tho ceremony was imposing. 
 At a later period of the day, the host (sur- 
 rounded by silver candlesticks, and amidst a 
 blaze of light), was placed in a huge shrine at 
 the west-end of the building. Crowds of people 
 knelt in evident devotion around this shrine. It 
 was, indeed, by far the most beautiful and 
 solemn sight of the holy week, and the only one 
 which appeared to affect, in the right direction, 
 the minds of the spectators. 
 
 Washing the feet of twelve men, seated on a 
 raised dais, between the high altar and the 
 choir, took place at eleven o'clock, and was 
 simply an affectation of humility, combined 
 with much pomp on the part of the Cardinal, 
 
1 
 
 !! 
 
 108 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 From the cathedral, I walked past the tobacco 
 factory, to the plains without the walls, where 
 the fair is held during the latter part of April, 
 preparations for which event were already in 
 progress. Here, about a mile from the walls, 
 is the site of the old *' Auto daF^s," during the 
 power of the misnamed Holy Inquisition. The 
 form of the quadrangular walls may still be 
 traced, as the foundations remain ; and the brick 
 work, on which the blazing pile rested, is still 
 partly visible also. The last murder, in the 
 name of religion, took place in 1782. Manymay, 
 therefore, be still alive who can remember it. 
 The Spaniards, to this hour, avoid, with a kind 
 of dismal horror, any allusion to the Inquisition. 
 They seem still to dread its possible re-establish- 
 ment. As has been well said, " Sons of burnt 
 fathers, they dread the fire." From this spot 
 to the cemetery is about half a mile. The 
 mode of sepulture appears to me good : far 
 preferable to our dismal vaults in England. 
 The plan is this : — A large quadrangular wall, 
 about twenty feet high, and eight or nine deep, 
 surrounds a level space. This wall is pierced 
 with rows of holes one above another, like little 
 chests, just long enough and high enough to 
 hold a coffin. There are in this cemetery nine 
 rows of these receptacles, one above another. 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 109 
 
 all around the walls ; which resemble exactly 
 a section of honeycomb placed upright, or 
 reversed. The body is brought to the ground, 
 and the lid of the coffin opened, when the grave 
 clothes are sprinkled with aqua fortis, or some 
 other burning liquid ; the lid is then closed, and 
 the coffin slid into its hole; which is then 
 bricked up, and opened again, after a lapse of 
 five years, for the reception of another body. 
 By that time, all that remains in the cell, is a 
 heap of bones and ashes. 
 
 An inscription is placed on the entrance tew 
 each tomb, and, before some few, lamps were 
 burning. One inscription struck me much : it 
 was, "MadreMia," lODeciembre. How simple, 
 yet how affijctionate ! How much is expressed 
 in these two words. No laudatory epitaph — no 
 chronicle of virtues ; no loud expression of grief 
 could tell its tale so well. Peace be, with the 
 dead, and living ! The cemetery was nearly 
 full. On the outside were a few small spaces 
 entered through a gate, with about twenty 
 tombs in each — intended, doubtless, as places 
 of family burial. With one exception, no out- 
 ward trace, of what must be going on within, 
 was apparent. There must, therefore, be little 
 danger to the living from this mode of bmial of 
 the dead. Pursuing the walk, I entered the city 
 by the cannon fouL Iry and cavalry stables. 
 
 
no 
 
 SEVILT.E. 
 
 In the afternoon the same ** pasos," or cos- 
 tumed figures, were carried through the streets, 
 in the presence of all Seville ; and, in the even- 
 ing, the ^' Teniebres" were celebrated in the 
 cathedral, followed by the miserere, from ten to 
 eleven. On Good Friday, at the service in the 
 morning, the host was taken from the shrine 
 in which it had been placed, by the Cardinal 
 Archbishop, attended by four suffragan bishops, 
 and carried by him to the high altar : when the 
 lights on the magnificent shrine were at once 
 extinguished, and the west front of the cathe- 
 dral reduced, at one moment, from a blaze of 
 light to utter darkness. The windows, at that 
 part of the building, had been artificially dark- 
 ened by black curtains. 
 
 Throughout Good Friday, interminable pro- 
 cessions paraded slowly through the streets. The 
 only alteration was the introduction of penitents 
 in a pretty white dress, with blue masks and 
 conical hats, and a few little girls dressed as 
 peculiarly gaudy angels, covered with spangles 
 and trumpery. White wings were attached to 
 their shoulders, and their hats were adorned 
 with ostrich feathers. The poor little things 
 sang dismal songs, and seemed terribly fright- 
 ened. The procession lasted until late in the 
 evening : and, when seen slowly approaching 
 through the dark street, thronged with a dense 
 
 °f " ■ &) »'■«»* mf» a %* 
 
SEVILLE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 crowd, the effect is much finer than by day. 
 Still, did the amusements (for that is really the 
 proper term) of the holy week consist merely 
 in these processions, they would present but 
 few attractions. The traveller gladly turns 
 from the tawdry, uninteresting show, to the 
 people, who, in full dress, crowd the streets ; 
 and consoles himself for the meagerness of the 
 ecclesiastical ceremonies, by the capital oppor- 
 tunity afforded by the concourse, of obtaining, 
 in a few days, as good an idea of the inhabi- 
 tants of Seville, and the adjacent country, as, 
 under most circumstances he could hope to do, 
 in many months. 
 
 On Saturday morning, the black veil was rent 
 before the high altar, with the same solemnities 
 as the rending of the white veil, three days 
 before. . On the morning of Easter Sunday, a 
 " Te Deum" was exceedingly well sung, and a 
 voluntary played on the organs, which, though 
 powerful, are not considered good instruments. 
 Thus terminated the solemnities (or, what were 
 meant for such), of the holy week at Seville ; 
 which, when compared with the same season at 
 Rome, appear almost contemptible. A bull 
 fight in the afternoon, and the opera in the 
 evening, occupy the remainder of Easter Sunday. 
 The transition, even to one not a novice in these 
 matters, seems rather abrupt. The afternoon 
 
 1 
 
I i' il^ 
 
 * \-l 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 112 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 II 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 I ..ii! 
 ' i ! 
 
 il^iimi 
 
 ii'i 
 
 i<^^< 
 
 was wet ; but the bull fight was held, neverthe- 
 less — though the entire pleasure is lost, unless 
 the weather be fine. The bulls never fight cou- 
 rageously in bad weather ; sunshine appears to 
 stimulate them ; while a wet, cloudy afternoon, 
 turns the savage, ferocious brute, into the merest 
 craven. Those Englishmen who forgot the 
 lessons of their youth, and were not ashamed 
 thus to spend the latter part of so peculiarly 
 holy a day, returned to the hotel, drenched, 
 disappointed, and disgusted : ** the bulls were 
 tame, the horses the merest screws — ^not worth 
 a pound a piece; and fireworks and barbed 
 darts were necessary to goad the bulls to the 
 charge." There was not sufficient spirit evinced, 
 to throw anything like a decent veil over the 
 cruelty of the sport. In fine weather, it may be 
 otherwise ; but, whether it be or not, an English- 
 man can have but one opinion : that it is an 
 amusement of the most degrading character, fit 
 for a Heathen — not a Christian land. 
 
 The museum, at Seville, contains many good 
 paintings, by Murillo, by Zurbaran, Roelas, and 
 other artists of lesser merit. Those, by Murillo, 
 hang in the room called the " Sala de Murillo." 
 The most celebrated is a small painting of the 
 Virgin, with the Saviour in her arms: it is 
 called the '' Servilleta." Most extravagant 
 praise has been lavished on this work by some ; 
 
\ 
 
 m 
 
 SEVILLE. 
 
 113 
 
 and on the other hand, there are a good many 
 artists who say, it is only a beautiful piece of 
 colouring, admirably executed; and that the 
 artist has simply succeeded in painting, a very 
 world-like human being, with a good humoured 
 laughing sprightly child, nothing more; no 
 beauty of feature or heavenly expression, either 
 in the mother, or the child. The subject cer- 
 tainly requires something more than this ; and 
 that it can be given is proved by another pic- 
 ture, in the same room (St. Anthony with the 
 Infant Saviour sitting on an open Bible). There 
 the artist has caught the inspiration of his sub- 
 ject. Another picture is St. Francis embracing 
 the Saviour on the Cross. This is admirable, 
 but is open to the criticism that the right arm 
 of the Saviour torn from the Cross, does not sim- 
 ply rest a dead weight on St. Francis' shoulder, 
 but is so painted as to convey the appearance 
 of life and power. 
 
 From the Museum I started with a party to 
 the suburb of Triana, for the purpose of seeing 
 a gipsy dance. All I can say is this, that it is 
 no fit exhibition for man, woman, or child, and 
 that its only charm may be equally well seen in 
 Paris, for a franc, at some of the evening dan- 
 cing saloons ; yet strange to say, English ladies 
 of high rank, young and old, married and un- 
 married, sat out a performance of the grossest 
 
 H 
 
 
 £1%., 
 
 h ^'^ 
 
 1 .'V. 
 
 [ 0^ 
 
■i- ! 
 
 V ^i ! 
 
 ;' -I 
 
 
 lU 
 
 SEVIIJ.K. 
 
 indecency, and not only did so, but paid very 
 heavily for the pleasure. This suburb is a 
 miserable place ; even in the day, it is a subject 
 of congratulation, that the 
 
 " Empty traveller may whistle, 
 Before the robber and his pistol." 
 
 A rather handsome new iron bridge, has re- 
 placed the old bridge of boats, which however 
 still spans the stream, a couple of hundred yards 
 lower down. The Guadalquiver is a very muddy 
 stream, and is here perhaps 150 yards wide. 
 On the bridge, is a capital view of the Cathedral, 
 and the Giralda; which seems to increase, in 
 height and beauty, as you recede from it. Its 
 light graceful outlines, shooting up into the 
 heavens, are rarely absent from the eye, at any 
 part of Seville, so great is its height; to a 
 stranger it acts as a guiding star, in his wander- 
 ings, through the narrow crooked lanes of the 
 city. 
 
 In the University, there are some good paint- 
 ings and monuments ; the latter are too ornate, 
 and in bad taste. A little panel painting, by 
 Roelas, of '' the Infant Saviour," is beautifully 
 executed ; but the head and face, are those of 
 *' Bacchus," rather than of the Saviour. From 
 the University I went to the Church of the 
 ''Caridad," which is peculiarly rich in paintings. 
 The "Descent from the Cross," over the high 
 
^ 
 
 8KVII.L1-:. 
 
 li:> 
 
 altar, is a nio.st improssivc woik of art. Tliero 
 is a dim ^randour about the sky, and tlio mound, 
 on which the three crosses stand, exceedingly 
 affecting ; but the dead body of the Saviour, at 
 the bottom of the picture, surrounded by eight 
 or nine figures, in coloured carved wood, is in 
 very bad taste. There are several other most 
 beautiful pictures, particularly the masterpiece 
 of Murillo, ** Moses striking the Rock." 
 
 Returning from the Caridad, among some 
 most picturesque-looking persons in charge of 
 the bulls, for the approaching bull-fight, the next 
 day, was a boy ; riding on a small, but ap- 
 parently full grown ox. The ox had acquired 
 the same swinging pace as the horses, and was 
 saddled and bitted exactly like them. The 
 scene appeared greatly to anmse the people, 
 who were taking their daily saunter, along the 
 bank of the river. The chief promenades and 
 alamedas, of Seville, are close to the river, and 
 are exceedingly beautiful. By the name given 
 to the prettiest of them, it is quite evident, that 
 the Sevillians are not at all insensible to its 
 merit; it is called "Las Delicias." These 
 gardens were now in the first budding Spring, 
 fresh and lovely ; nightingales in great numbers, 
 contributed their music to the ear, and long 
 rows of "Judas" trees, with their trunks and 
 
 branches most beautifully encircled and tufted, 
 
 H 2 
 
110 
 
 8EVILLF,. 
 
 i 
 
 
 >! 1 
 
 \n 
 
 »6 I! 
 
 I I' 
 
 1 ii 
 
 'i 
 
 ili I: 
 
 by eccentric though charming pink blossonia, 
 gratified the eye ; while the softness of the air, 
 and the absence of all oppressive heat, made 
 these gardens one of the most agreeable lounges 
 in the world. 
 
 The climate of Seville is very hot, for the 
 greater part of the year. This, combined with 
 the descent of the people, gives a very oriental 
 tiiige to their habits and mode of life. The 
 women sit on the ground, in public places, after 
 the Eastern fashion. Hundreds may be seen in 
 this position, at church, instead of kneeling; 
 with the white pocket-handkerchief, and gilded 
 prayer book, resting on the outspread folds of 
 their garments. The streets too, look Oriental, 
 for they are constantly covered with awnings, 
 which gives the little shops, on either side, the ap- 
 pearance of an Eastern bazaar. In many cases, the 
 different trades have their shops together, and 
 sit behind their counters, with true Oriental 
 indifference. You may buy if you like, they seem 
 to say ; if you do not wish to do so, pass on ; 
 we will do nothing to tempt you. 
 
 In the heat of the day, the streets are deserted ; 
 it is in the evening and night, that they present 
 their most attractive appearance. Then every- 
 body strolls idly up and down, the various 
 alamedas and best streets ; gossiping, shopping, 
 and smoking. 
 
 I 
 

 8KVILLK. 
 
 117 
 
 The personal a])poaruuco of u Soutlioru 
 Spaniard, is propoHsosHing; his dress good,thougli 
 showy, and his address courteous and polished. 
 Even the very lowest class, have the manners of 
 good society, a natural good breeding ; nor do 
 their tastes appear so gross, as those of the 
 same class at home. They are very fond of 
 gambling, and games of chance, which they 
 practise even for so low a stake, as an orange ; 
 entering apparently, as keenly into the sport, 
 as though it were for dollars. Everybody knows 
 that tliey revel in intrigue, that it is indeed the 
 business of their life ; this makes them sly and in 
 some respects cowardly. Revenge is a cherished 
 passion, a bounden duty, as in Heathen times, 
 a virtue. Their religion it is difficult to charac- 
 terize, without using the harsh term, '' Pagan- 
 ism." The Virgin Mary is undoubtedly reveren- 
 ced, one may almost say worshipped, with more 
 than the usual Romanist fervour; and the various 
 Saints, occupy a very prominent position in 
 the religious thoughts, of the Spaniard of the 
 lowest class. 
 
 No religion except the Roman Catholic is 
 tolerated in Spain for state reasons. This is by 
 no means because the people are more rigid 
 Romanists than elsewhere, but simply a measure 
 of political economy. Even in the time of 
 Espartcro and his co-ministers, (whom no one 
 
h 
 
 11H 
 
 HKVII.LK. 
 
 will Huspoct of p'cut pioty to say tli(3 Iciust), no 
 doviatio!! from tluH policy was allowed, and 
 contbrtHcdly on this ground — **not, that the Uo- 
 nian Catholic was the only true religion," but 
 that religious feuds and religious wars were the 
 most bitter of all c^Mitests, and could not on any 
 account be permitted to exist in Spain. They in 
 fact, like the ancient Ileatliens, considered reli- 
 gion entii*ely as an afl'air of state; as nmch under 
 the care of the civil nmgistrate as any other 
 part of the civil polity. The effect of this chain 
 ii})on all freedom of thought, has been to create 
 more infidelity than exists in most countries. To 
 compel anumundtn'painofsevorecivildisabilities, 
 to conform to a creed which in his heart he des- 
 pises, is to nudve an infidel ; give him some 
 latitude and he would simply become a dissen- 
 ter. No one can bo naturalized in Spain, or 
 hold real estate, except ho be a Roman Catholic. 
 The Andalusian day is generally thus spent. 
 The family rise early, take a cup of coffee or 
 chocolate, and a mouthful of bread ; then, until 
 ten or eleven pursue their various occupations. 
 They then take a substantial breakfast, and dur- 
 ing the middle of the day their "siesta." If 
 you love peace, O stranger, do not disturb a 
 Spaniard at this hour; nothing makes him more 
 savage. At niglit you may do what you like with 
 hiiu, but during the afternoon niip, beware the 
 
NF-VII.LK. 
 
 119 
 
 sleopinj^ tij^or, roum^ l»i»n, and ho hmkIh. JJiii- 
 iior Ih not vvitli tlio Hout' icru Spaniards a protrac- 
 tod nioal aH with uh ; it is taken uncomfortably, 
 at different times, and witliout any family re- 
 uni(m. About ei^ht or nine in the oveninj^ 
 comes the really social meal, supper ; then the 
 family meet, friends drop in, the girls bring out 
 the guitars, and nmsic and dancing are kept up 
 till midnight. This is the time to see a Spanish 
 family in good humour, and to the greatest ad- 
 vantage, for these fouror five hours are the enjoy- 
 ment of the day. When oncio admitted into a 
 Spanish family, on terms of intimacy, you may 
 run about their houses at all hours like a pet 
 dog. Even the women will not run away from 
 you, although they be in morningdeshabille ; and 
 no servant (when your face is known) will ever 
 trouble himself to announce you; he simply 
 admits you, and loaves you to wander over the 
 house, when, where, and how you like. 
 
 p-e^r^^^ 
 
120 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 :-v 
 
 ^i I 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 MALTA. QUARANTINE. — STRADA REALE. ITS 
 
 APPEARANCE. ^VALETTA. GENERAL DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE CITY AND ADJACENT COUNTRY. CHURCH 
 
 OF ST. JOHN. — HISTORY OF THE ORDER OF ST. 
 
 JOHN. ^' THE AUBERGES". THE PALACE. 
 
 SQUARE OF SAN OEORGIO. THE CLUB. THE 
 
 CARNIVAL. ST. PAUl's BAY. ISLAND OF GOZO. 
 
 PHOENICIAN REMAINS. CROPS. TRADE OF 
 
 MALTA. — A FEW WORDS ON CLIMATE. 
 
 nnHE yellow flag was flying at our mast-head 
 as we entered the harbour, of Malta having 
 only a few days previously left Alexandria; 
 consequently the quarantine regulations com- 
 pelled those passengers who remained, to pro- 
 ceed at once into Marsamuscetto harbour, and 
 shut us out for three weary weeks from all com- 
 munion with the city of Valetta ; whose mag- 
 nificent fortresses, brilliantly white houses, rising 
 in terraces one above the other, lovely placid 
 harbours, and the busy hum of life and pleasure 
 wafted across the waters to the Lazaretto, were 
 so enticing as to render it almost impossible, to 
 endure our imprisonment with anything like 
 philosophy. 
 
v 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 121 
 
 There Is probably no subject on wliicli peo- 
 ple differ more than on quarantine, and its 
 efficacy as a preventive. All, admit it to be a 
 most unmitigated nuisance; and the opinion 
 seems gaining ground that its restrictions may 
 be less rigidly enforced ; if not entirely with- 
 drawn. I will not venture to give an opinion 
 on a subject which has been so much discussed ; 
 but every now and then facts of undisputed 
 truth happen, which almost justify those who 
 are in favour of maintaining the old system 
 without any relaxation ; such for instance, as the 
 manner in which the yellow fever was a few 
 months ago introduced into Bermuda, with such 
 painfully fatal results. In this case, a woman 
 died on board a vessel, of yellow fever. Instead 
 of destroying her clothes by fire, they were 
 thrown overboard, and some of them drifted 
 ashore on one of the Bermuda Islands ; were 
 there picked up, by a soldier's wife, who took 
 them home, and washed them. She died the 
 next day. How fearfully the disease spread 
 from this slight cause is known to all, and too 
 recently to render particulars necessary. 
 
 At length much to my joy, the doctor gave 
 us '' pratique" and long before sun-rise, a boat 
 conveyed me across the water to Valetta, when 
 a short walk up a very steep street, took me 
 into the '' Strada Reale." I shall not readily 
 
122 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 I 
 
 forget how imich and how iavonrably this street 
 impressed me. It is wide, straight, well paved, 
 level, and amazingly clean; the houses are 
 white, many of them exceedingly handsome, 
 chiefly flat roofed, and adorned with substantial 
 projecting windows and balconies ; its style and 
 appearance is partly Italian, and partly Oriental. 
 The sho[)s are not good, externally. I remain- • 
 ed in Malta three months, and established my 
 self in a suite of rooms, built on the flat roof of 
 a house. The charming view over the city, and 
 its harbours, the island, and far out to sea, in- 
 duced me to select this rather elevated abode ; 
 from whence I will endeavour to present to the 
 mind of the reader, the main features and pecu- 
 liarities of the surrounding scene. The city of 
 Valetta is built on a tongue of land, jutting out 
 between the grand harbom', and the sheet of 
 water in which the quarantine ground is situ- 
 ated, and it is joined to the main land by a 
 comparatively narrow space. At least four 
 fifths of the city is surrounded by water. In 
 the distance at sun-rise the dark outline of 
 Etna is occasionally, though rarely visible over 
 the sea. To the left is the quarantine harbour, 
 in shape like the coils of a snake ; full in front 
 is the entrance to th'^ port, through which the 
 swell of the sea rolls, break'ng at times heavily 
 against the rocks and massive walls of Fort St. 
 
M.VLTA. 
 
 123 
 
 3r 
 
 Elmo. To tljo ri<^'lit the water is again divided 
 into two bays, by two projecting spurs of land, 
 on which are built the two suburbs of '' Citta 
 vittoriosa," and *' Senglea," beliind which are 
 fortifications without end. Further on a long 
 green tract of land, a pleasing contrast to the 
 painful glare of the white city, and the rocky 
 country which surrounds it, meets the eye, 
 bounded by a range of hills on which Citta 
 vecchia, the former capital of the island stands 
 conspicuous ; though in a state of great decay. 
 Tlie city is protected on the land side by two 
 extensive ranges of fortifications, between which 
 is the suburb of '' Florian." In every direction 
 without the walls " casals" or villages, indicate 
 that the population of the island is dense. Few 
 trees are to be seen, and dazzling white roads, 
 walls, and aqueducts, stretch in every direction. 
 The surface is far from flat, and the shores are 
 in most places jagged ? nd abrupt. A superfi- 
 cial view would therefore tend to a most erro- 
 neous estimate of its want of fertility ; at first 
 all seems to be rock and sand, but on a closer 
 inspection, little patches of vegetation are ob- 
 servable nestling as it were, between the large 
 slabs of rock ; and yielding by means of the 
 heavy dews, and artificial irrigation, abundant 
 crops. The industry of the Maltese is confess- 
 edly sur[)rising ; nothing is neglected, and no 
 
Ill- 
 
 8!l|: 
 
 &! 
 
 ■ ^i 
 
 
 124 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 labour spared, to change the natural barrenness 
 of their little island, into fertility. Still, on the 
 whole, the island looks, and is, dreary and 
 wild ; its beauty is confined to the marvellous 
 combination of nature and art, in the city of 
 Valetta, and its blue sheets of water. 
 
 The town is most regularly built, and is full 
 of curious and handsome edifices, among which 
 the various "Aubergcs'' of the old Knights of 
 St. John, stand conspicuous. In Italian cities, 
 the churches are generally objects of attraction; 
 but in those of Valetta, there is but little archi- 
 tectural beauty ; and with the sole exception of 
 the Church of St. John, not much to interest or 
 admire. This building is completely identified 
 with the history of the order of chivalry, whose 
 name it bears. 
 
 There are few who do not know, that a few 
 merchants of Amalfi, in the eleventh century, 
 obtained from the Turkish Sovereign, permission 
 to establish, at the Church of the Holy Sepul- 
 chre, at Jerusalem, a place of refuge for pilgrims. 
 Two hospitals were there erected, one of which 
 was dedicated to St. John. The cruel outrages 
 committed on the hospitallers, by tlie followers of 
 Mahomet, gave rise to the Crusades ; and after 
 the fall of Jerusalem, for the second time, into 
 tlie hands of the Moslems, the Knights of St. 
 John, first took refuge in Cyprus, then at Rhodes, 
 
\"rf. 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 125 
 
 t. 
 
 and finally at Malta. So interesting to every 
 
 Christian, is their origin, and the misfortunes 
 
 which subsequently befel them, that no one can 
 
 visit the church, which bears their name, and 
 
 was erected by them, without emotion. They 
 
 have passed away, with the state of things, 
 
 wliich gave birth to them ; but the admirer of 
 
 heroism will, for ages to come, dwell fondly on 
 
 their history. Their sufferings and their deeds 
 
 are indelibly impressed on the history of the 
 
 world ; and though, happily for mankind, few 
 
 such struggles as those, in which the " Knights" 
 
 of this order, were for centuries engaged, are 
 
 likely again to occur ; such is the weakness of 
 
 human nature, so largely is the organ of com- 
 
 bativeness developed in mankind, non obstante , 
 
 the Peace Society and Mr. Cobden, that it is 
 
 impossible not to feel, while treading over the 
 
 ashes of the chief actors in those scenes, a strong 
 
 sense of admiration ; the step becomes elastic, 
 
 the head erect, and L'Isle Adam, and La Valette, 
 
 for the moment, quite overshadow the glory of 
 
 such names, as the Philanthrophic Howard, or 
 
 Elizabeth Fry. 
 
 The shape of the church is oblong, and on 
 each side are aisles, with chapels for the different 
 nations, forming the " Order," richly adorned 
 with paintings and sculpture. The pavement 
 is emblazoned with the armorial bearings of the 
 
 Ik'' \ 
 
 \ - 
 
 
 f: 
 
 if. IiK- 
 
i 
 
 I i 
 
 I 1 
 
 120 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 Kiiighta, In inosaic, and the ''Arms" of tlio 
 various lodges, frescoes, paintings, tapestry, and 
 sculpture, with relics of all kinds, appertaining 
 to the Order, meet the eye everywhere. I 
 know few edifices more full of liistorical interest ; 
 gallant deeds, done too since the times of llo- 
 mance, not " mysteries surrounded with a halo," 
 crowd upon the mind, while slowly walking 
 over the ashes of the dead. Tlie subdued light 
 in which the church is kept, harmonizes well 
 with the train of thought ; we walk in twilight, 
 and for the moment live in the past. Unfortu- 
 nately, luxury and illness emasculated the 
 successors of the early Knights ; and when the 
 island was attacked by Admiral " Brueyes," at 
 the close of the last century, no resistance was 
 offered. The people were inclined to resist, 
 but the Knights remained passive : 
 " Here all were noble, save nobility, 
 
 None hugged a conqueror's chain, save fallen chivalry." 
 The French utterly disregarded the terms under 
 which the island was ceded to them ; they intro- 
 duced radical changes, and at the same time pro- 
 claimed liberty and equality ; heavy fines were 
 imposed on the chief iiihabitants, and such gene- 
 rally arbitrary measures resorted to, that the 
 poor Maltese were soon made jiainfully aware, 
 that they had exchanged an enfeebled despotism, 
 for the lively tyranny of a newly born republic. 
 
MALTA. 
 
 127 
 
 The English therefore met with little resistance 
 from the Maltese, in their blockade of Valett.'i, 
 under General Pigot and Commodore Martin. 
 There is no doubt that the Maltese were of 
 great use to the besieging forces, on this 
 occasion ; and it is, on this very just ground, 
 that they claim from us at thv^ present day, the 
 free exercise of their religion and laws. And 
 although a good deal of grumbling is heard, 
 they are, on the whole, tolerably well satisfied 
 with their present masters ; at any rate, they 
 know that their weakness must prevent inde- 
 pendence, and are quite aware they miglit be in 
 worse hands. An immense amount of English 
 money is yearly circulated through the island. 
 This, with the large development of the steam 
 traffic, gives much employment, and keeps the 
 population, except in the distant " Casals" or 
 villages, in comfort and content. Prosperity is 
 so general, that there is really little room for 
 discontent. 
 
 In a stroll through Valetta, the buildings 
 which most strike the eye, are the " Auberges" 
 That of " Castile" is decidedly the finest, both 
 intrinsically, and from its commanding position. 
 They are almost without exception occupied as 
 military qusrters ; one of them (I forget which) 
 is the '' Club," to which admission is freely ac- 
 corded to travellers, (on introduction) for a 
 
 I'M 
 
! 
 
 I ^1 
 
 128 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 week. This is a rather scanty measure of in- 
 dulgence ; and the conimitteo of management, 
 might copy with advantage, the much greater 
 liberality, of the library and club, at Gibraltar. 
 The Palace, formerly the residence of the 
 Grand Master of the Order, but now the Govern- 
 ment House, is a very large building, and stands 
 in the Strada Reale. In shape it is quadrangular ; 
 it contains some old armour, which is very val- 
 uable and interesting, in the eyes of those who 
 know something about, and care for such things ; 
 and some really good paintings, representing 
 the victories of the order ; there is also some 
 tapestry. The finest room by far is the ball room, 
 which I was fortunate enough to see lighted for 
 a fancy ball, and filled with a varied throng of 
 "characters" ably and carefully sustained. This 
 ball was the "event" of the season. In front 
 of the Palace is the Square of San Georgio. 
 On the opposite side of this small open space is 
 the main guard house, and the merchants' read- 
 ing room and library. Here too the troops 
 occasionally parade, and the military bands 
 play, though the main scene of such matters is 
 outside the first line of fortifications, in the 
 suburb of Florian. Of course so large a gar- 
 rison must make some noise and parade ; and to 
 the eye of a civilian, naval, and military imi- 
 forms, are rather obtrusively prominent. 
 
MALTA. 
 
 129 
 
 Near the end of the Strada Ruaie, is the 
 great fort of St. Elmo, where General Aber- 
 crombie lies buried. In this fort are bomb proof 
 quarters for 2,000 men. Most fortifications ad- 
 mit of but little description, and are very unin- 
 teresting to the general reader, but the walk 
 along the bastions of this fort is one of the most 
 striking in Valetta ; the sea breaks against the 
 rocks on which it is built, at times with great 
 fury, sending up clouds of sjjray ; and no vessel 
 can enter or leave, either harbour of Valetta, 
 without passing close under the walls. On the 
 opposite shore is fort St. Angelo ; and indeed 
 wherever the eye rests, fortifications of more or 
 less solidity and grandeur are seen. The works 
 on the Valetta side of the harboui', tower in 
 great majesty, battery over battery : while on 
 the opposite shore, fortifications of less imposing 
 external aspect, but of more actual power, 
 (from the guns being more a fleur cfeau) appear. 
 On this side are the dock yard and arsenal. The 
 streets are narrow and dirty, and appear d(;sti- 
 tute of population, except of the very lowest 
 kind. The sound of the saw, the hammer, and 
 the axe mingles as you stroll through the streets 
 with the roar of some drunkard's song; and 
 sailors with their slip-slop dishevelled " Cyn- 
 thias," seem almost the only inhabitants. Still, 
 although dirt and vice are now painfully con- 
 
 I 
 
li 
 
 I i 
 
 l.'iO 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 spiciiou8 in tliC80 suburbn, thoy are intore«tliig 
 from their iissociatioiKs ; for hero stood the for- 
 tifications wliicli resiHted the onslaught of the 
 Turks, in the memorable neigo under Mustaplia 
 Pasha. The ride hither from Valetta is very 
 h)ng and circuitous, and parts of the road are 
 execrable. By far tlie best way is to cross the 
 water from the *' Nix Mangiaro" stairs. There 
 are but two "good roads on the island ; all the 
 rest are very rocky and rough. The best, is a 
 fine level broad road leading to Citta Vecchia : 
 the other runs through the suburb of Pieta, 
 and skirting tlie quarantine harbour, crosses 
 rather ab^'uptly a little hill, and thence follows 
 the shore line to St. Julians. Part of this road 
 is the race course, and is certainly one of the 
 most singular places in the world for such a 
 purpose: a rough stone wall bounds it one side, 
 and the harbour on the other. Its length is 
 less than half a mile, and its width in places so 
 contracted, that two carriages have some dif- 
 ficulty in passing. This road is the chief after- 
 noon lounge of the residents in Valetta, who 
 ride or drive over its monotonous surface with 
 most praiseworthy punctuality. After all, this 
 afternoon occupation is considered a melancholy 
 necessity. Health exacts the sacrifice — plea- 
 sure is out of the question. You cannot do the 
 same thing day after day, at the same hour. 
 
MALTA. 
 
 131 
 
 and SCO the sumo faccH and Htonos, utter tlio 
 samo unmeaning coniplinicntH, and make tlio 
 same number of bows, without bein^^ bored to 
 death — of course all the serious business of life, 
 suchas your dinnerormakinjr money isexcepted. 
 
 The Carnival took place during my stay : at 
 which time the Strada Realo is a peculiarly gay 
 scene. The Maltese enjoy their carnival and 
 keep it up with spirit ; and the Corso at Rome 
 is scarcely a finer street for that purpose than 
 the Strada Reale. Both are of great length, 
 (juite straight and abundantly furnished with 
 large balconies for participators and spectators. 
 At Malta the merriment is rather boisterous, 
 as the English " Tars" avail themselves of tliis 
 opportunity, for the exercise of their notions of 
 fun and frolic. Consequently, the higher 
 classes of Maltese take but little active part in 
 the Carnival ; the lower orders have for the 
 time almost undisputed possession of the streets. 
 So much has been written about the folly and 
 childishness of a "Carnival," that I do not 
 intend to defend it here. Yet surelythe Moderns 
 may follow the example of the Old Romans, and 
 
 " Misce stultitiara consiliis brevera" 
 The masked balls which succeed each day of 
 the Carnival, are fair points of attack for they 
 cause much evil. 
 
 I visited botli by land and by water the cele- 
 
 1 2 
 
 tV\ 
 
 -v- 
 
I ,! 
 
 I, I Ml 
 
 Hi 
 
 V\2 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 l)nit(>(l St. I'liurs bay. Tlicre Ih no rojiHoimljlo 
 doubt but that Maltu is tlu^ " Mclita" dt'scribcMl 
 by St. Paul as tlio hclmu* of liis Hliipwrock ; and 
 to liint evon a doul)t of this would bo luu-o ^tbo 
 (•on(!ontrato(l (\ss('n<io of trcMiHon. Thoro Ih por- 
 baps rather nu)r« uiu'tu'tainty as to tbo oxact 
 spot : but tlioro is a bay witb an island at its 
 mouth, Avhich answiTs tluj doscription p:ivon 
 of the scriu! of his shipwreck by St. Paul in tho 
 last I'hapter of tho Acts of the Apostlos; and 
 thcroforo it is fixed upon reasonably enough as 
 the })laee, and nanunl accordinf^ly. On the island 
 is u colossal statue of St. Paul. Of course too, 
 there is a chai)el dedicated to him, aiul the very 
 spot is pointed out, at which the vessel touched 
 the j>Tound. Here, us elsewhere, scepticism is 
 invited to step in, by an attempt to prove too 
 nmch. This is an error almost universal at 
 places of traditional interest. Tho day, thoufj^h 
 early in spring was very hot ; and I think 1 
 have rarely seen so may lizards racing over tho 
 rocks. As the weather wiis calm, 1 could not 
 form much idea of what the place would be in a 
 strong oast wind or *' Grogale"; doubtless dan- 
 gerous enough. The immediate country round 
 tho bay is desolate, and almost, if not the only 
 building visible, except the chapel, is a fort gar- 
 risoned by a snuill detachment of the Malta 
 Fencibles. These forts are scattered here and 
 
 III 
 
MAMA. 
 
 \:V.] 
 
 tlici'u ull nxiiid the isiitiid, nnd tli<M»l)i(;(;r in coin- 
 tiiuiid must hnid it Hudly dull lifo. Tliu road to 
 the bay by luiid is nxjky and bad ; and oft'orH 
 uo induconumt ox(!(4)t an oxtonnivo viow ovor a 
 gT(»at part of tlio isliind at ** Cawal NaHciar." 
 
 Antuiuiirians would do well to viHittlio noij^li- 
 bouriiijL^ inland of *' Oozo" which j)ohsohhch por- 
 luipH tho boHt IMioMiician romainn extant. Tho 
 cropH on this island are lM3ttor than on tho lar^o 
 island, as tho land lies hi«^hor and is not cpiito 
 so j)archod by tho heat and drouf^ht. Tho chief 
 crops on both, are corn, clover and cotton. Tho 
 last is manufactured into a gnnit variety of 
 articles, some of which are much and justly 
 esteemed. The stockings, gloves, mittens, and 
 a peculiar kind of lace, are very beautiftil and 
 strong. Hesidcs those bni' ' s of trade, great 
 nund)(?rs of peopl(> are employed upon gold and 
 silver filagree work ; but the gold is too pure 
 and consec^uently soft and brittle, for general 
 use. Tho workmanship is however very beauti- 
 ful. There is also a soft porous, light kind of 
 atone, in working which the Maltese masons (we 
 may almost dignify them with the name of 
 sculptors) arc very skilful. Excellent copies of 
 the most celebrated antique designs are to bo 
 
 had. The stone will not 
 kind, or bad usajre, but it is 
 
 n^i 
 
 oear exj)08ure 
 nevertlieless 
 
 of 
 
 any 
 
 jless highly 
 })rizcd. It is, as comiiared with marlde, cheap, 
 
 7.' 
 
 ■if ' ' • 
 
 
 ; k'y^!- 
 
 V. 
 
 4 ■■* 
 
 mm. 
 
l! 
 
 U '\ 
 
 
 n\ 
 
 lU 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 but one may easily spend a large sum of money 
 in any of the shops devoted to the art. A great 
 deal of this work is imported to England ; and 
 is so well and carefully packed that it rarely 
 experiences injury. The freight and other 
 expenses generally double the original cost. 
 The Maltese are also expert carpenters and fur- 
 niture brokers, and ship building is carried on 
 to a great extent. The dockyard is on a very 
 large scale, and in general there is much activity 
 in its various departments. Indeed the naval 
 service here, is a great support to the trade and 
 population. The grumbling of the people of 
 Valetta when the fleet is at sea, or much re- 
 duced in strength is so strenuous as to be almost 
 amusing ; they appear to consider a line of battle 
 ship as a vested interest, and resent a depar- 
 ture as a robbery ; the 6th rates may come and 
 go as they please. A smart frigate with a dash- 
 ing, expensive, hospitable ward room mess, is 
 also a Maltese pet. 
 
 It would not do to leave Malta T»;ithout pay- 
 ing a tribute to the excellence of the little red 
 (or as they are called Tangerine oranges) ; they 
 are very small, peel readily, and are delicious. 
 The orange is produced by grafting an orange 
 bud, upon a pomegranate stock. The market is 
 well supplied with fruits of all kinds, but I con- 
 fess I always thought the various kinds of meat, 
 
MALTA. 
 
 135 
 
 the " pieces de resistance" badly cooked, and in 
 other respects indifferent. The fish, especially 
 the red mullet, is excellent. The prices of most 
 things are moderate ; and an income of three 
 or four hundred a year, places a family quite at 
 thei ease, if resident during the whole year. 
 I cannot speak in high terms of the Opera, or 
 any other public amusement. Though, still, 
 Malta is a gay place of residence for a month or 
 two, from its excellent society, and the movement 
 and bustle, the constant ebb and flow of travel- 
 lers creates. An Englishman feels at home, and 
 what is of more consequence to an invalid, the 
 comforts of home, if desired are procurable. 
 Except Catania which is an out of the way 
 place, and very dull, and where by the bye, 
 the prejudice against consumptive invalids is 
 great, Malta is perhaps the best climate in 
 Italy. There is, however, a dry irritating dust, 
 which in some cases ot advanced bronchitis or 
 consumption is very prejudicial. The climate 
 is dry, and not too warm in the winter months 
 for a small fire. It is not therefore relaxing. 
 The spirits of an invalid are generally greatly 
 cheered by sunshine, and here it will be rare 
 for a day to pass without it. The summer 
 months from June to October are very hot and 
 stifling. The sea breeze is at times rather too 
 cold and searching when the sun is too hot, but 
 
 >m 
 
' I! |i 
 
 nil 
 
 iiliiiil 
 
 
 
 136 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 this is an evil from which no Mediterranean cli- 
 mate is exempt. At Madeira it is not so, but 
 even there you must guard against the cold 
 blasts which descend the ravines from the 
 mountains, sometimes in mid winter covered 
 with snow. The climate of Madeira undoubtedly 
 possesses a softness unknown in Europe, but it 
 is relaxing and by no means suited to all classes 
 of chest complaints. Many of them are known 
 to be much aggravated by a residence there. 
 I should however, place the climate of FunQhal 
 first among all the comfortable and readily 
 accessible places of refuge for invalids. Up to 
 Christmas, Nice is a fine climate, but in the 
 spring months very trying from the cold winds 
 Most of the other climates of Italy, are but little 
 better than some places in our own island, 
 except that they are less subject to rain. Rome 
 is damp, though mild. Still I have seen rain 
 and snow for several successive days in the 
 Piazza di Spagna and the high-streets above it. 
 But I should be disposed to place it high in 
 the list of Italian winter residences. Naples, 
 unless you could by some magic, chain an 
 invalid to the Chiaja is entirely beyond the 
 pale. Pisa is wet, Florence is both cold and 
 wet, and besides variable. The climate of 
 Palermo is unknown to me, but experience of 
 other places generally spoken of favorably by 
 
 : i 
 
MALTA. 
 
 137 
 
 J 
 
 an 
 the 
 md 
 of 
 of 
 
 those wl«o know little or nothing about them 
 practically, would lead me to distrust it. In 
 the south of Spain, Malaga and Gibraltar are 
 the best climates ; but Gibraltar is subject to 
 moist easterly winds very prejudicial to many, 
 and affecting the spirits in a most depressing 
 manner at the same time. Yet to counterbalance 
 this, there is from the peculiar situation and 
 form of the rock, a climate entirely distinct from 
 any other in Europe. The advanced stage of 
 vegetation there proves this. In the month of 
 ^''ebruary tho f r«^f»s (at least some of them), will 
 be out in Ir i md the Alameda or public 
 garden be a mass of brilliant flowers, while a 
 few miles inland not a leaf or a flower will be 
 seen. A mile or two from the " Rock" at St. 
 Roque or at the little village of Campo, only 
 3 miles from Gibraltar, there is an entire 
 change, both in the temperature and the char- 
 acter of the air. At Seville during mid winter 
 there is a good deal of rain, and it is not suf- 
 ficiently near the sea to be under its mild in- 
 fluence ; besides which cold blasts of air often 
 sweep down from the Sierra Morena, and the 
 high mountains about " Ronda." 
 
 Many years unbiassed experience of Miditer- 
 ranean climates has in my case led to this result, 
 that neither in Italy, France or Spain, is any 
 climate to be found which during the whole of 
 

 III! 
 
 138 
 
 MALTA. 
 
 the Winter and spring months will save an in- 
 valid from trying weather ; and if this be neces- 
 sary, he should i1 ible to bear some fatigue and 
 roughing go farther south, to Egypt, Madeira, 
 Tondriffe or the West Indies. In many parts 
 of Italy and in Spain he will find a thinner air, 
 clearer sky, and perhaps loi^ rain, than at 
 home ; but he will have a hot sun, a keen air, 
 and considerable alternations of temperature ; 
 while the effect of these will be increased by 
 the want of the comforts and nursing of his 
 own home : and very often, indifferent greasy 
 food. 
 
 I do not consider it " ultra crepidam'^ for one 
 who has practical experience, though no medi- 
 cal knowledge to offer an opinion on this sub- 
 ject. At any rate, I have too often witnessed the 
 injury inflicted by advice given injudiciously, 
 that I must express a hopo that my presumption, 
 if it be so, may be pardoned. 
 
 *'^5F«i^^ 
 
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NKAV YOUK. 
 
 141 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TO NEW YORK.— SANDY 
 
 -THE " NAlUtOWH." DAY OF NKW YORK.- 
 
 FROM ROME 
 
 KOOK.- 
 
 DKHCIIIPTION OF THIO (IITY. — CAHTLE OAUDENS 
 
 AND HATTEllY. — HKOADWAY. THE I'AUK. UNION 
 
 SQUARE. IJOWEItY. THE '* TOMHH." LAW 
 
 COUKTH. THEATUES. — iiOWMNG HAEOONH. OYH- 
 
 TEIiSALOONH. — MOTELS. FOOD. EVILHOFllOTKL 
 
 LIFE. SOCIETY.— EDUCATION. MANNERS AND 
 
 APPEARANCE OF THE PEOPLE. PUHLIC liVUA)- 
 
 INOH. — ARcnri'wrruRE of private dwellinc^s. — 
 
 SERVANTS. RELIOION AND CHURCHES. CHARI- 
 
 TAHLE institutions. — COMM I:RCE. VIEW FROM 
 
 THE BATTERY. 
 
 TTALY ! How many pleasant images ! liow 
 many days of the most refined enjo^, .iicnt 
 does this word invoke ! vf hatevcr is most beau- 
 tiful in Nature, or perfect in Art, lies before the 
 traveller in this land. The mere lover of Na- 
 ture may luxuriate in the sunny environs of 
 Naples, Baite, or Sorrento, or among the blue 
 heights of Albano or Tivoli ; the contemplative 
 and studious may wander with delight among 
 the storied and massive ruins of ancient Rome ; 
 and the lover of the Fine Arts will gratify his 
 imagination and purify his taste in the artistic 
 wealth of aeres. 
 
11 
 1^ 
 
 ! i 
 
 ! ! 
 
 M 1 1 ii'ii I 
 
 m 
 
 U2 
 
 NKW YOUK. 
 
 A passing tribute, a lingering sigh of regret, 
 may, therefore, be pardoned in one, long fami- 
 liar with the manifold charms of this interesting 
 land. 
 
 I was in Rome when a letter summoned me 
 in great haste to Canada. A week took me to 
 England, and in ten days I was crossing the 
 Atlantic in a " Liner" for New York. 
 
 Being unfortunate in my fellow-passengers, I 
 felt not only literally, but metaphorically, at 
 sea. My mind wandered back to the glorious 
 scenes and associations of the past winter, and 
 felt acutely the rude shock by which they were 
 at one blow shivered. 
 
 A gale of wind off the Western Islands, and 
 a warm thick fog on the banks of Newfound- 
 land, which dripped from the sails, penetrated 
 the cabins, and made every part of the ship 
 wretchedly uncomfortable, are all I have to 
 clironicle of this passage. 
 
 The twenty-fourth day we made Block Island 
 and Montauck lighthouse; and from hence were 
 obliged to beat down the low sandy shore of 
 Long Island. Crowds of vessels, outward and 
 homeward bound, indicated that we were slowly 
 approacliing a large commercial city: in all 
 of r respects the scenery was tame. The only 
 hts visible are those of Neversink, on the 
 iSe\, Jersey shore ; elsewhere all is flat, sandy. 
 
NKW VOllK. 
 
 Ui\ 
 
 to 
 
 and uninteresting. We anchored in the outer 
 bay (but inside Sandy Hook), as the wind 8wc|)t 
 violently through " The Narrows." Hero, 
 within sight of the shore, a poor girl, about 
 eighteen years old (a steerage passenger), sud- 
 denly died. She caught cold from exposure on 
 the wet deck, and, being treated homoeopathi* 
 cally, inflammation carried her oiF in thirty-six 
 hours. Her body was sent ashore at the qua- 
 rantine ground. 
 
 At early dawn the next morning a huge 
 straggling-looking monster worked its way 
 alongside, grappled us firmly in its claws, and 
 proceeded to tow us through '' The Narrows," 
 and up the inner harbour, to New York. The 
 American river steamboats are curious-looking 
 specimens of naval architecture ; but a little 
 experience showed me that, under a rather un- 
 wieldy, grotesque form, every quality, except 
 the power of contending againt't a heavy sea, is 
 found in perfection ; comfort, speed, luxury of 
 all kinds, cheapness in the fare, and Derfect in- 
 dependence. Let no man smile at a Transat- 
 lantic river steamboat. 
 
 The *' Narrows," a channel about three- 
 quarters of a mile broad, fortified on each side, 
 separate the outer from the inner harbour, and 
 are the gates, as it v/ere, of New York. The 
 ground rises to a moderate height, and is covered 
 
 
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 HI 
 
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 NF.W YOliK. 
 
 with showy-looking villas and gardens. Every- 
 thing is clean, appropriate, and, above all, 
 green ; — no slight pleasure to the sea-wearied 
 eye — for a country must, indeed, be desolate 
 which appears so after a long sea voyage. 
 
 The quarantine ground, sailors' hospital, and 
 retreat, lie a little to the left after passing the 
 " Narrows" — from hence the river opens out 
 into a broad expanse of water. Full in front, is 
 the brick-built city of New York, standing be- 
 tween the Hudson and the East River, and 
 almost hidden by a forest of masts ; to the left 
 is the shore of New Jersey and the beautiful 
 North River, whose banks are covered with 
 charming residences nestling among the trees ; 
 to the right the heights and town of Brooklyn, 
 having the East River (alive with countless 
 craft) between it, and the parent city from 
 whom tliis immense suburb has sprung. 
 
 Much has been said and written about the bay 
 of New York, and, in truth, its beauty can 
 scarcely be exaggerated. The only fault is a 
 want of elevation in the surrounding country, 
 which, although undulating, is too flat for the 
 large surface on which the eye rests. Other- 
 wise, there is a combination of land and water, 
 island and mainland, farm and forest ; all the 
 life and bustle of a large commercial city, and 
 the sleepy, sunny indolence of the haunts of 
 pleasure, rarely to be met with. 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 145 
 
 As a commercial position, it is unrivalled. 
 The North River pours into its bosom the riches 
 of the West ; through the Sound and Hell-gate 
 comes the commerce of the North ; and, looking 
 seaward, rare is the moment of the day when 
 some tall ship, freighted, perhaps, with shawls 
 from Cashmere, or cotton goods from Manches- 
 ter, figs from the Levant, or tea from China, is 
 not to be seen working its way slowly up the 
 bay past the heights of Now Brigliton ; where, 
 by-the-bye, let the stranger repair for one of the 
 finest views of this delightful and interesting 
 scene. A glance at any good map will show at 
 once how admirably most of the beauties of Na- 
 ture are here grouped together. Tho New York 
 people are proud of their bay and city, and with 
 reason. 
 
 Let us, however, now land, after paying a 
 I)assing tribute to the courtesy of the Custom- 
 house officer who examined our luggage on 
 board; and having found our way to an hot- 1, 
 and recruited both the outer and the inner man 
 by a warm bath and a glorious sherry cobbler 
 (that prince of beverages), lonk around us. The 
 city, we have before said, is built on a long nar- 
 row strip of land, tapering to a point ; and it 
 may be said to have three great arteries — 
 Greenwich-street, running along the shore of 
 the North River ; Broadway, which may be 
 
 
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 NKW VOUK. 
 
 called the bufkboue ; and the Howery. Fn)m 
 Jirottdway radiate on both Hidefl to each river 
 numerous streets at riglit aiij^les to it. Straiten 
 the ribs of tlie skeleton of a whale, and you have 
 the j)lan of the city of New York. At the apex 
 of the triangle are the Castle Gardens and Bat- 
 tery, the favourite lounge of the New York 
 peojile. Let us begin our stroll from this spot, 
 and traverse the city from one end to the other. 
 Every traveller is at once struck with the pecu- 
 liarly Dutch appearance of this, the oldest part 
 of the city of NowY^ork. The red brick houses, 
 liaving trees planted before them — the style of 
 architecture, and the cleanliness, bear very 
 strongly the impress of the first founder and his 
 followers. A people whose love of everything 
 national was so strong as to induce them to carry 
 over with them from Holland the bricks of which 
 their houses arc built, though the forests around 
 them abounded with timber, and the adjacent 
 land of Now Jersey was a mass of clay, were 
 not likely to construct their buildings in so un- 
 substantial a manner as to permit even the lapse 
 of two centuries to make much impression upon 
 them. 
 
 Passing through this comparatively sombre, 
 quiet, and yet attractive little section of the 
 city, we soon enter the long, handsome street 
 called '' Broadway." Here all is life : we 
 
 !i;;i 
 
NKW YORK. 
 
 H7 
 
 |)lunj^o at onco among a crowd of boings who 
 know full well that tinio is money: — active 
 rcatlossness, tho quick eye, and the hasty nod, 
 indicate plainly that wo are near Wall-street, 
 the Lombard-street of New Y'^ork. 
 
 A little further on, opposite the Astor House, 
 ia a triangular garden called the Park ; near thia 
 the street called the Howery begins. In thia 
 Park stands the City Hall, the Court-house, and 
 Poat-oftico — not forgetting the celebrated Mr. 
 JJarnum's Museum, which is adjacent. 
 
 Pursuing our course up Broadway, the cha- 
 racter of the street soon changes ; the shops are 
 loss numerous and smaller ; the blocks of good 
 private houses more unbroken ; handsome 
 squares are seen on casting the eye down tho 
 streets to the left of Broadway ; the churchea 
 become hondsomcr, and are more numerous ; 
 tho population is thinner ; and, at a short dis- 
 tance above Union-square, a decidedly suburban 
 cliaracter is assumed. From the Castle Gardei? 
 to this square is about three miles. A row of 
 trees on either side line the footpath at the upper 
 end of Broadway. 
 
 No person can traverse this street without 
 
 being favourably impressed by it. Its length is 
 
 great, the width good; the houses, shops, 
 
 hotels, and public buildings, are substantial, 
 
 strong, and, in many cases, imposing. A gau- 
 
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 148 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 diness in the paint, and a profusion of sign- 
 boards, names, and advertisements (in many 
 cases cut into and painted on the pavement from 
 a desire, through eccentricity, to attract the eye 
 of the passer-by), deface the street. The pave- 
 ment is good, and crowded with people at all 
 hours ; but the carrirges, except the omnibuses, 
 are far inferior to those generally seen in the 
 leading streets of London. 
 
 There is not much variety in the costume. 
 The ladies follow the French fashions, and their 
 toilette is generally so elaborate and expensive 
 as to be better calculated for a drawing-room 
 than a walk in the streets of a large city. Black 
 faces meet you at e\ery turn, and really form 
 almost the only variety in the outward appear- 
 ance of the genus homo. I very soon per- 
 ceived that there was a want of nationality in 
 the appearance of the people. Had I been 
 asked to what section of the human family those 
 I saw around me belonged, I could not have 
 given a good ethnological reply. The truth is, 
 that there is no race which in this city can 
 fairly be said to preponderate. In other large 
 places the national dress, language, and personal 
 appearance, are enlivened rather than neutra- 
 lized by the foreign element. Here all is cos- 
 mopolitan. New York is neither English, 
 Yankee, Dutch, German, Italian, or French : 
 
 ■ '-^1 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 149 
 
 but, like a Spanish " 011a," is a compound of all. 
 No ingredient is obtrusively prominent ; each 
 component part of the whole is reckoned by- 
 thousands, not units. The result is, that every 
 man, be his country what it may, will here 
 lind a section of his home. Its popularity is 
 therefore great : no capital city, except Paris or 
 Vienna, is an equal favourite with the world at 
 large. Amusements of all kinds abound; for 
 the mere lounger, the oyster saloon, bowling 
 alleys, and a host of similar places, will find 
 entertainment. The lover of the stage or music 
 will be able to gratify his taste ; and the literary, 
 scientific, or credulous man, will rarely be at a 
 loss for a lecture upon any subject. 
 
 The fondness of this people for lectures has 
 been often remarked ; and it is perfectly true, 
 that the dryest and most obstruse, aswell as the 
 most ridiculous subject, will always command 
 an audience. No European charlatan will ever 
 appeal in vain; the greater the novelty the 
 better ; the more startling the theory advanced, 
 the more likely it is to find disciples. Politics, 
 religion, homoeopathy, hydropathy, mesme- 
 rism, and clairvoyance, are each and all nightly 
 descanted upon to interested, and, what is more, 
 believing crowds. 
 
 Let us, however, prolong our walk a short 
 distance from Union-square, in order that we 
 
 ^ 
 
EhuSS 
 
 150 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
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 may see the first gi'eat reservoir of the Croton 
 aqueduct. The reader would learn but little 
 were I to describe it minutely. The water is 
 brought forty miles in sufficient quantity to 
 supply abundantly a population four times as 
 numerous as that of New York at the present 
 time. The Americans consider it a far finer 
 thing than any Roman aqueduct ; be that as it 
 may, it is highly creditable to their energy and 
 engineering skill. Returning home through the 
 Bowery, we visit the city prison, called the 
 ^' Tombs." This curious sombre looking build- 
 ing is of Egyptian architecture, and perfectly 
 imlike any prison to be found elsewhere. An 
 uninformed stranger would take it to be a 
 public library or literary institution of some 
 kind. Like our Old Bailey, there are courts 
 in the building for the trial of prisoners, nearly 
 all of whom, when I visited the prison, were 
 negroes or coloured people. The cells are 
 wretched places. Executions take place within 
 the walls in the presence only of the sheriff and 
 a few of the city authorities; a practice which I 
 cannot help thinking it v/ould be well were we 
 to adopt at home. A pass is obtained at the 
 keeper's office, and with this you are allowed 
 to range over the whole building entirely un- 
 attended, and apparently unwatched. While I 
 was inside the walls, an Irish woman was 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 151 
 
 brought ill almost wholly naked, and intoxicated 
 to the last degree of stupor ; she was a most 
 pitiable sight. The policemen who carried her 
 appeared to be fully alive to the degraded 
 nature of their burden ; and for myself I can 
 truly say, that neither in Drury-lane, nor Tot- 
 tenham Court-road, have I ever seen, so degraded 
 a specimen of the bloated sot. Another func- 
 tionary followed, carrying her dirty ragged 
 garments. All visits to such places are painful, 
 and I was glad to be once more outside. 
 
 Not far from this prison are the law courts. 
 The chancellor was not sitting ; in the Circuit 
 Court a son of the well known Judge Kent was 
 on the bench. There was no attempt at judicial 
 pomp or ceremony; neither judge nor counsel 
 wore any professional costume, and the court 
 was without carpet, curtain, or decoration of any 
 sort ; simply a raised seat for the judge, and a 
 few deal benches for the bar, jury, witnesses, 
 and spectators. The only judges in the United 
 States who wear silk gowns are the judges of 
 the Supreme Court. In the Circuit Court of 
 Appeal ' wo judges were sitting in banco. The 
 hall was neatly fitted up and carpeted. 
 
 Law is cheap and speedy in its action in the 
 *' States;" the Americans are satisfied with it, 
 and a foreigner lias no right to find fault with 
 the mere forms of a court, because they differ 
 
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 152 
 
 NKW YORK. 
 
 from those of his own country. As in Scotland, 
 however, the cheapness with which a legal war 
 can be waged, is productive of a very litigious 
 spirit. Perhaps it is as well that law should bo 
 like all luxuries, dear, Hie new civil code of 
 this state, adopted on the report of a commission 
 appointed threo or four years ago, is almost a 
 model of good practical common sense, com- 
 bined with a thorough knowledge of the main 
 principles, as well as the practice of law. It 
 works well, and has been largely drawn upon 
 by the framers of our own Common Law Fro- 
 cedure Act. There is one part of tlie consti- 
 tution of the State of New York lately intro- 
 duced to which an Englishman cannot reconcile 
 himself. The judges are elected by the suf- 
 frages of the electors of the districts, great or 
 small, over which the judge is to preside. They 
 are chosen for eight years, and have no retiring 
 pension, but may be re-elected. Still there is 
 always the possibility, if not probability, of a judge 
 being sent back to practice at the bar. Wlien 
 the judges in England were freed from the in- 
 fluence of the court and political parties, by 
 making their tenure of office for life, it was 
 C'jiisidered a great triumph of public opinion, 
 and it has undoubtedly led to the necessary 
 consequence ; the best lawyers seek a seat on 
 the bench, and adorn it. The puisne judges 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 153 
 
 are invariably tlie best men. A seat in Par- 
 liament may, and sometimes does, it '*s true, 
 promote an indiftercnt lawyer to preside over 
 one of the Courts of Common Law, or Equity, 
 though this is rare, and is a far less evil than 
 the periodical election lately adopted by the 
 state of New York, which must render the 
 judge subordinate to those who have elected 
 him. The salary, too, is small, 2,500 dollars 
 or £500 a year. Certainly not enough to in- 
 duce an able man to relinquish a large practice. 
 Republics always pay those who serve them in 
 a public capacity in a very niggardly spirit ; 
 and the United States are no exception to the 
 rule. From the President, to the lowest cus- 
 tom-house officer, the salaries are too small. 
 
 After dinner I went to the Olympic Theatre, 
 but found the pieces so very flat, that I was 
 soon induced to leave ; and one of the nume- 
 rous bowling saloons, with which the city 
 abounds, attracted my attention on my return. 
 A long room, with an arched Gothic roof elabo- 
 rately decorated, having at the upper end a 
 raised dais, carpeted and fitted up wdth tables, 
 sofas, and chairs, refreshments of a^' Ivinds, and 
 cigars, gave the plebeian game of nine-pins 
 quite an aiistocratic appearance. Being invited 
 to *' exorcise," I declined. The greater part 
 of the tfpace is, of course, occupied by the 
 
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 alleys : — these are floored witli a Inghly-poliHlied 
 hard wood, are about four fec^t wide, and per- 
 haps sixty long. At the up[)er end are the 
 pins, and a thickly padded leather screen to stop 
 the ball. At tlie end of each alloy stands >i boy, 
 to roll back, on a raised slide, the balls ju-^/ de- 
 livered i)y tlie player. 
 
 The -/ajuo is fatiguing, and a gr(\d favounte 
 here, liii PhiJad* Iphia a law was passed to put 
 down tliis gurnt— for what reason is not very 
 readily a}>[)arciit. In >A\o act it was called 
 " nine-pins ;' but tho number of the pins were 
 cpiickiy chan;:;'ed into ten iiii-^tcad of nine, by 
 which simple means the law was evaded. Find- 
 ing that this stitf-nocked attempt to interfere 
 with this realK iiuiocent amusement would not 
 be obeyed, the act has been repealed. 
 
 Otiser great lounges are the oyster saloons. 
 These are generally long, narrow, handsome 
 rooms, elegantly furnished, and divided into 
 snug little boxes, separated by curtains. At 
 tlie entrance is a semicircular bar, at which 
 beverages of all kinds are served out : most of 
 these are excellent, and liave been often des- 
 cribed. Around these bars congregate the New 
 Yorh " loafer and rowdy" — two terms unknown 
 in the Old World. Their prototypes at home 
 would be the idle, restless, dissipated, vulgar 
 frequenters of cider ccii rs, cigar divans, Ui J 
 other haunts of low vi^-.. .vud dissipation. 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 155 
 
 The back of these bars is usually adorned 
 with some pamting of a very stimulating cha- 
 i Lf'ter, after the French school. In these saloons, 
 oysters, cooked in every conceivable manner, 
 are served up. When stewed, they are deli- 
 cious, but too large to be eaten uncooked, with- 
 out some previous training. The Americans 
 manage, somehow or other — and without masti- 
 cation — to dispose of an oyster as large as the 
 top of an ordinary tumbler — a feat which to me 
 always appeared as difficult as any performed 
 by the '* Wizard of the North," or Monsieur 
 Houdin. Stewed terrapins and pickled clams 
 are also peculiar to this country, and much eaten. 
 Neither the one nor the other were to me pala- 
 table food. In every country taste varies ; for 
 it required some time to induce the native Ame- 
 ricans to eat shrimps, although they are caught 
 in the neighbourhood of New York. 
 
 While on the subject of food, I may as well 
 say, that m every part of the United States 
 through which I travelled, except parts of Vir- 
 ginia and the Western States, I found it excel- 
 lent. The hotels are well managed and reason- 
 able in their charges, vhich vary from three 
 dollars to one . .iiar a day, including the Eng- 
 lish iuharg ior attendance. If the traveller re- 
 quire either wine or beer of any kiu 1, it will be 
 an extra charge. A bad custom of giving a 
 
 
 
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 156 
 
 NEW TOKK. 
 
 
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 fee to the waiter at the dinner-table has lately- 
 become prevalent, and should, for many reasons, 
 be discouraged. It arises from selfishness and 
 a desire to be better attended to than your 
 neighbour, and makes the waiter uncivil and 
 inattentive to those who give nothing. The 
 usual liours for breakfast are from half-past 
 seven to ten ; dinner, at half-past one and four 
 o'clock ; at which latter hour I would advise all 
 strangers to dine, as ladies then form part of the 
 company, and the dinner is better served, and 
 eaten more deliberately ; tea is on the table at 
 six ; and, in general, a capital supper is served 
 at nine or ten, and remains until midnight. 
 Lobster salad, admirably made, is a very favou- 
 rite dish at this meal. 
 
 At the hotels out of the large cities the hours 
 are more regular, and usually there is but one 
 table (Vhote at one or two o'clock. On the whole, 
 there is not much fault to be found with the 
 arrangements of the hotels. A little more fur- 
 niture in the bed-rooms would be desirable ; and 
 the Continental custom adopted by the Ameri- 
 cans, of attaching newspapers in files to an iron 
 frame, is very inconvenient to the mere reader 
 for pleasure, though the reverse for the mercan- 
 tile man. Sitting rooms are found in all the 
 hotels, some of which are appropriated to ladies 
 alone and their friends. Gentlemen who may 
 
 ■< 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 157 
 
 der 
 
 [lay 
 
 be staying in the house have not access to them, 
 unless in some way connected, or at least inti- 
 mate witli one or more of the ladies who occupy 
 them. It is quite unnecessary to make any re- 
 marks upon the evils attending the practice of 
 resigning the privacy of home for the less ex- 
 pensive maintenance of a family at an hotel. 
 The custom is very general — is, in my opinion, 
 most injurious, and I sincerely hope will, ere 
 long, be almost entirely abandoned. Indifferent 
 servants, early marriages, and economy, are the 
 reasons assigned ; but do not, I must say, jus- 
 tify the very general prevalence of the custom. 
 That it must lead, in very many cases, to dis- 
 astrous consequences, appears to me inevitable ; 
 though I should be sorry to give currency to 
 half the statements made to me on this subject. 
 English wives will judge for themselves. 
 
 The table at the large hotels is always well 
 and plentifully supplied. In out-of-the-way 
 places pork and eggs form too much the staple 
 entertainment. The cookery is more French 
 than English. Fruit and sweets of all kinds 
 abound at every meal, and the quantity of straw- 
 berries eaten is really wonderful : plate after 
 plate disappears with marvellous rapidity. 
 
 Pickled beef, clams, and other kindred stimu-^ 
 lating dishes, ai< ch eaten at tea. Wheaten 
 bread and corn ^ Indian) are brought to table 
 
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 NKW YOIJK. 
 
 in ondlesH variety. Tliin ' •, 'nkcH, eaten with 
 treacle or inolaases, nio ni- 'nvonrites. The 
 Americans are not dfdicate eaters, and occa- 
 sionally shock a traveller, accustomed to good 
 Hociety, by niixinj^ (to him) incongruous food, 
 and by rather hasty and abrupt lu.' u.„a-i at 
 table. At the same time, he must bear in mind 
 that the persons usually met with at hotels arc 
 of the class . f connucrcial travellers and lesser 
 merchants ufc home. In criticising their man- 
 ners this should not be forgotten. 
 
 To seize upon any peculiarity, and exagge- 
 rate it, is easy. To represent, as characteristic 
 of a whole people, maimers whicli are to be 
 found in a mere section of it — to dress them up 
 and prcdtnt them to the reader in amusing lan- 
 guage — may flatter national vanity ; but it is 
 highly unfair. The caricature is not the best 
 likeness. I mixed, during sever d months, in 
 every class of Amcricin society. The highly- 
 bred English or French gentleman, aocustoniod 
 to the best and most refined society, is not to be 
 found in America: there is no school for such. 
 ]3ut you will find, with this exception, most 
 native Americans (I use this tei n auvisedly, 
 because the States are deluged ^'' pe< pie from 
 other countries, who are the loudest talkers and 
 most obtrusively ill-mannered) superior in intel- 
 ligence and manners to persons filling the same 
 position elsewhere. 
 
NEW TORK. 
 
 159 
 
 TliiH is peculiarly the (Mise with the lower 
 order of agriculturists. Place the small yeoman 
 or farm-labourer of England by the side of the 
 same class in America, and the contrast is great. 
 The coarne, heavy clothes, slouching, lumbering 
 walk, rough speech, and lifeless stolidity of the 
 one, do not appear in a favourable light by the 
 side of the slim, active, light-clothed, intelli- 
 gent, inquisitive, and somewhat restless Ameri- 
 can. I have often sighed to think tliat the figure 
 before me, clad in fustian shooting-coat, plush 
 waistcoat, knee-breeches, gaiters, and half- 
 boots, with a hundred-weight of iron on the 
 solves, was a fair H[)ecimen of the English " raw 
 mato'ial." Those who have been in America 
 v/ill, . am 8ur«', agree with mo in this. 
 
 Asce;:'^ing a little higher in the social scale, 
 there is less to reform, and, therefore, less 
 superiority. Still the manners of the retail 
 dealer, easy and self-reliant, are a great im- 
 provement upon the cringing, humble servility 
 often found in the shopkeeper at home. 
 
 Amongst professional men there is not much 
 difference. Education rubs down the salient 
 angles everywhere ; but I almost incline to think 
 that in this cla^s the scale would turn the other 
 way. 
 
 Really good society is not easy of access to a 
 traveller in the United States ; he must not only 
 
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 conio well rccommcndod, but must linger long 
 upon his road. 
 
 The hotel, the steamboat, or the rail, are not 
 fair places to judge of national manners, parti- 
 cularly in a nation composed of such hetero- 
 geneous materials as this. Quiet, educated 
 people, in a republic, keep rather in the back- 
 ground ; and such are to be found in all parts of 
 the Union. 
 
 Society in New York has been much laughed 
 at and abused. I do not feel that my experience 
 would warrant me in doing so. Many a delight- 
 ful day have I spent wandering on the banks of 
 the Hudson, with kind, intelligent, and hospi- 
 table friends; whose homes were surrounded 
 with every comfort and luxury, and whose doors 
 were never closed against those who had a fair 
 claim to enter them. They were, it is true, 
 branded as "Aristocrats," which, in America, 
 means simply, that they did not interfere in 
 politics or municipal elections — were not at 
 home either on the platform or the stump — 
 used some little discretion in the choice of so- 
 ciety, and were content to live quietly and un- 
 seen amid the turmoil of the world around them. 
 To differ, or to affect to differ, with the tastes 
 and habits of the majority, is, in America, a 
 crying sin : it is considered an assumption of 
 superiority, as conveying an indirect reproof, 
 
NKW YolfK. 
 
 ii;i 
 
 and as iii(ri(;atiii«^ tliat tli(iir conduct and opi- 
 iiioiiH am open to exception. 
 
 All society, in a city like New York, cannot 
 bo good ; ncitlicr have I found it ho el8e\vlier(\ 
 Take clas.s for class, and it need not bluslj by 
 the side of its European competitors. 
 
 The north-eastern, or purely Yankee Stat(\s, 
 dirt'er widely from the hot-tcMupered, {generous, 
 hospitable man of the South. The far West 
 has a character of its own : all is wild, new, 
 rough, and rude. As is the life, so are the 
 j)eople. 
 
 To know the xVmcricans you must visit them. 
 No written description will be just. Like aruhi 
 relating to the gender of French nouns, the 
 exceptions will be so numerous, that in the end 
 the rule itself will be forgotten. 
 
 Every climate, from tropical heat to Sibe- 
 rian cold ; pursuits the most various ; the 
 wealthy, luxurious city, and the ncAvly-planted 
 log-hut, whose inhabitants ace but the beasts of 
 the field and the birds of the air, must and do 
 present striking contrasts. 
 
 Women in the United States generally marry 
 when mere girls. They are delicate, fragile, 
 and beautiful. In roundness of form they are 
 deficient, and almost always have bad teeth. 
 An A mcrican lady is rarely seen on horsel)ack ; 
 while a natural delicacy of constitution is not 
 
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 often couiite'racted by living nnicli In the open 
 air, and by healtliy, if ratlier imfominine, 
 amasements. I believe that this is acknow- 
 ledged and felt to bo an evil, and that it will 
 gradually give way to the good common sense 
 for which the American people are so remark- 
 able. 
 
 One peculiarity of American society deserves 
 mention : }'oung ladies, until they are married, 
 enjoy great social freedom ; they are permitted 
 to go ^,'' ore they like, and do and say what they 
 like. Wiien married, however, all is changed ; 
 restraint — nay, even denmreness of manner — is 
 exacted. The English rule is reversed, and 
 that most completely. 
 
 It may appear rash to say that I consider 
 American women in general badly educated. 
 Such, however, is my opinion, and it was not 
 adopted hastily, or without some means of 
 knowledge. Too much is attempted — too wide 
 a scope embraced : it is tlie discursive system of 
 the Scotch Universities applied to women, who 
 are taught, and profess to know, not only those 
 branches of knowledge which nie properly 
 within their sphere, but also tliose wh\ch, inthe 
 Old World, are studied by the stronger sex 
 alone. 
 
 The public buildings in New York are gene- 
 rally well adapted for the purpose to which they 
 
NFAV YORK. 
 
 lO:^ 
 
 are devoted, but are neither grand nor in very- 
 good taste. The Custom-house is an exception : 
 it is constructed solely of marble, roof as well as 
 walls, and is fireproof ; uhe centre is a rotunda, 
 well fitted up and handsome, but kept, I thought, 
 much too hot. Nothing mean or paltry will 
 meet the eye in New York, except sought in 
 such parts as the "Five Points," corresponding 
 to our 8t. Giles', where negroes, Irish, and the 
 vagabonds and scoundrels always abounding in 
 large cities, fix their abodes, and find a refuge. 
 Tall, red brick houses, many-windowed, and 
 plastered all over with signboards and names, 
 occasionally diversified by an ambitious build- 
 ing of stone, form the streets. Wooden houses 
 are fast disappearing ; jalousie blinds abound, 
 and long rows of canvass awnings stretch their 
 protecting shield over the panting pedestrian. 
 These are a good substitute for the heavy 
 arcades of Italian towns, and possess one great 
 advantage — they can be removed when not 
 wanted. ]\Iany a time have I shivered under a 
 damp, cold arcade in Italy, and longed to be 
 able to roll it up like an American canvass 
 
 awnmg. 
 
 In general, the private houses are too large 
 for the number of servants kept, which leads to 
 the uncomfortable practice of living almost en- 
 tirely in the 1.>asement, and using the rest of the 
 
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 house for rccoption rooms on grand occnsioiis. 
 
 Servants are here a gTcat ])lngiie. Most ladies* 
 consider them so, I believe, everywhere ; but 
 here the native-born Americans rarley conde- 
 scend to this employment ; and, when they do 
 so, insist on treatment utterly at variance with 
 those ndos necessary in all well-r(?gulated estab- 
 lishments. The servants are, therefore, cliiefly 
 Irish, or "Blacks." May, is the great month 
 for house-moving, both in the sense in which 
 the word is generally used, and literally ; for, 
 as is well known, it is no uncommon practice 
 } v: cO move an entire house from one situation, 
 and place it in another. 
 
 Simplicity and neatness within the city give 
 place to a good deal of pretension and bad taste 
 in the architecture of the private residences in 
 the surrounding country, especially on the banks 
 of the North River. Here wooden porticoes and 
 colonnades meet you at every step, and of every 
 variety of architecture — generally deviating 
 slightly, to suit the taste of the owner or builder, 
 from the pure models of antiquity. Pericles 
 would sigh, and scarcely fancy himself again at 
 Athens. In a new and extremely commercial 
 country, it would be absurd to look for build- 
 ings which should rival those on the ''Aero 
 polis," or houses like Italian palaces; but it 
 would have been well if the aspiring and ewcv- 
 
NKW YOKK. 
 
 l();j 
 
 getic inhabitant.^ of this country hud not, by an 
 attempt to soar too high, fallen so low. Bad 
 and meretricious as these buildings are when 
 seen too close, at a distance the effect is good ; 
 and this is Jonathan's answer — so that it be a 
 portico, no matter though it be a wooden oni; — 
 '' Distance lends deception to the view !" If the 
 wood would not crack, and the paint rub off, or 
 tlic columns stand upright, and not become 
 ricketty, it would certainlj^ be all the better. 
 
 On the churclios no expense is spared. They 
 are the ladies' pets, and decorated accordingly. 
 St. Luke's (Episcopalian), Broadway, is ex- 
 ceedingly handsome outside ; and within, dur- 
 ing the evening service, was a perfect blaze of 
 wax lights and chandeliers. This church is 
 nearly the oldest in New York. A new Gothic 
 CJhurch, in Brooklyn, was also exciting groat 
 interest, and would have delighted the Rev. 
 Mr. Bennett, of St. Barnabas, and his private 
 theatrical "coadjutors." Much attention is paid 
 to the singing. 
 
 In the Episcopalian Churches there are some 
 few verbal alterations in the service, in which 
 vigour of expression is sacrificed to a false sense 
 of delicacy. The Episcopalian Cliurch through- 
 out the States is not the favourite form of wor- 
 sliip. Every kind of dissent is rife. At Boston, 
 and some other parts of the north-eastern States, 
 
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 166 
 
 NEW YOKK, 
 
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 t I 'MP 
 
 Unitarianism predominates. The incomes of 
 the clergy'arise entirely from pow rents and 
 voluntary subscriptions. Where the preacher 
 is popular, the pew rents are extravagantly 
 high. Churches are constantly built by share- 
 holders as speculations. An eloquent minister 
 is obtained — a liberal salary given ; the church 
 is crowded ; seats are let at a high — in many 
 cases almost a fabulous price — and a large inte- 
 rest is secured on the money expended. Con- 
 gregations, too, pride themselves on being se- 
 lect ; and as much canvassing often takes place 
 to procure a pew in a particular church as in 
 England to gain an invitation to a select ball at 
 Court or elsewhere. In my opinion, the whole 
 system is rotten at the core ; but, at the same 
 time, I am (piite aware that at home, where the 
 clergynian is not appointed by, and is inde- 
 pendent of, his congregation, many evils often 
 arise. In this, as in many otlier cases, there are 
 arguments pro and con. 
 
 I was much pleased with a little floating 
 church for seamen, suppoitod on two boats of 
 thirty tons each, moored in the East River ; the 
 church was neatly fitted up, and capable of 
 holding about i,00 persons. "WHiile I was in 
 New York, a concert was given at^ the Broad- 
 way Tabernacle for the benefit of another 
 church. A great concourse of people assem- 
 
Ni:\V VOKIC. 
 
 107 
 
 are 
 
 ting 
 of 
 the 
 of 
 in 
 )ad- 
 her 
 em- 
 
 bled : tlie sing-ing was good. The concert began 
 with an anthem, sung by about fifty voices, fol- 
 lowed by a most dolefully delivered prayer ; 
 after whicli some sacred and profane music was 
 strangely jumbled together. The amusements 
 
 terminated with a recitation, by Professor , 
 
 of a speech delivered during the struggle for 
 independence. The propriety of introducing 
 such a subject on such an occasion may be ques- 
 tioned. 
 
 Education is on an excellent footing. Besides 
 the colleges and private schools, where a high 
 course of instruction prevails, there are in eacli 
 district public schools for the poor, suj)ported by 
 a tax levied on all real estate in the district. It 
 follows, then, that tlic cliildren of the really 
 poor are educated gratuitously, as the tax falls 
 upon tliose who are rich, or com])aratively so, 
 and wlio do not send their cliildren to these 
 schools. The scliolars bring their own books. 
 In the school at Brooklyn, visited by me, there 
 were about 500 children of all ages (boys and 
 girls), from four to fifteen. ■ The system of in- 
 struction seemed kind and effective — the man- 
 ner of the teachers affectionate and agreeable. 
 The children held dialogues, and recited ; even 
 the youngest acquitted themselves credita]>ly. 
 Religious information was evidently much at- 
 tended to ; but it was general and practical — 
 
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 1(18 
 
 i\KW YORK. 
 
 not doctrinal. The whole school received, dur- 
 ing my visit, a lesson in nnisic on '' Hullah's" 
 princijile. It was delightful to see the little 
 things — many almost infants — keej) time with 
 precision, and to hear their feeble voices ming- 
 ling harmoniously with those of their seniors. 
 The tea(,*hers were very capable, superior per- 
 sons. My visit i)leased me greatly ; and I canio 
 away impressed with the idea, that the school 
 was a credit to its district, to its teachers and 
 - liolars, and every one connected with it. 
 
 In ■'■ e present state of New York, the tax for 
 the connnon school education is more heavy 
 tlum our income tax : it amounts, I believe, to 
 nearly, if not quite, five per cent, on the rate- 
 able pro])erty. When, as, in America, the 
 whole power of the State centres in the nuisses, 
 it is not oidy a duty, but an act of self-j)reser- 
 vation on the part of those who have anything 
 to lose, to place instruction so generally within 
 the reach of the jjoor as to fit them for the 
 })roper e.^ercise of the rights and privileges of 
 freemen. 13y this means alone can t)ie selfish 
 demagogue be prevented from exercising such 
 control as must inevitably lead to the utter ex- 
 tinction of all real freedom. This truth, 1 am 
 happy to say, is fully recognised in the State of 
 New York. 
 
 Charitable institutions abound, but, witli the 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 ]69 
 
 exception of u large casualty hospital in Broad- 
 way, are situated some distance from the city on 
 the road to Haarlem, and also on the banks of 
 the North River. 
 
 No one can stroll along the vast blocks of 
 stores, lining each river on either side of this 
 city, without being greatly struck by the extent 
 of the business which must be transacted. 
 Everything in the connnercial world moves with 
 startling rapidity. A crisis arrives ; its effects 
 are severely felt ; credit (an American's money) 
 is gone : for a time all is prostrate. People then 
 begin to look about them. Those who have 
 saved something do business quietly, pay well, 
 and credit again rises ; with it larger specuhi. 
 tions are undertaken — until at last all again get 
 beyond their depth, and another check is the 
 consequence. In England a commercial crisis 
 is felt only by the few. Here, as all are en- 
 gaged, all suffer. Few are the idlers in New 
 York : such a life is far from being esteemed, 
 and is almost sure to lead to vice. Station in 
 society is lost rather than gained by it. I do 
 not mean to imply that property will not here, 
 as well as in other countries, raise its possessor 
 in the social scale ; but merely that a man is 
 expected to strive to increase in some career or 
 otlier even that whicli he hath. In tliis active 
 and busy hive, drones are out of place, and gene- 
 
 I-' ':^' 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 

 m 
 
 , r^h 
 
 n 
 
 l!i!|r 
 
 
 170 
 
 Ni:\v Y(ii:k'. 
 
 rally sock an asylum in the gay abaudou of 
 Paris or Vioniia. 
 
 h(>forc I leave New York, lot me take the 
 reader to the terrace of the Castle (Jardens, 
 which, I have before said, is the most charming 
 promenade in the city. The building- stands ou 
 a little island jutting' out into the bay, and is 
 joined to the rest of the city by a slight wooden 
 bridge. It forms the apex of the triangular pro- 
 montory on which the cit}' of New York is built. 
 In front are " llie Narrows" and high lands 
 adjoining : hundreds of white sails iiit about iu 
 every direction ; steamers without end advance 
 like giants, tracing their progress through the 
 water by forming waves, spreading- wider and 
 wider as the huge machines apj)roach. On the 
 right baidc is a line of blue hills, called Staten 
 Island, and Iloboken, the resort of the citizens 
 on pleasure parties and pic-nics. Carrying the 
 eye further on, and passing the town of AVee- 
 hawken, the fine bold ridge of granite rocks 
 called the " Palisades" bound the river for 
 some n\des. Full in front is Governor's Island, 
 crowned with a fortress commanding the en- 
 trance to both ports, and Bcdloe's Island, which 
 is used as a convict establislmunit. On the other 
 side of tliC East River stands the town of Brook- 
 lyn, picturesquely built on rising ground, and 
 separated from the main city of New York by 
 
NKW VUUK. 
 
 in 
 
 en- 
 licli 
 
 by 
 
 a crowd of shij)ping-. The Hcene is most lovely. 
 God, in his wisdom, has bvU bountiful, and the 
 genius of this industrious people has made a 
 good use of the " talent" confided to them. 
 
 e^^'^v^ 
 
 
 '•I 
 
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 .;. ^ 
 
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172 
 
 TAX A DA. 
 
 CIIAPTEK VJI. 
 
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 V\nm NEW YOIIK TO CANADA.— Hudson 
 
 inVER. WEST I'OINT ACADEMY. THE HKiH - 
 
 LAND.'. — KAATSKH.L MOUNTAINS. PINE OUCH- 
 
 AKr. AI-HA\Y. TKOY. EIUE KAILKOAD. 
 
 NEliKO CAJfS. — VALLEY OF THE MOHAWK. — LIT- 
 TLE FALLS. 1 1 EliK I M ER. GERMAN EMIGRANTS. 
 
 UTICA. ROME. SYRACl^SE. SALINA. SALT 
 
 WORKS. — CANAL TO OSWEGO. — LAKES IN THE 
 
 STATE OF NEW YORK. LAKE GEORGE. WARLIKE 
 
 EVENTS. I)R I N K ENN i:ss. La .:E ONTARIO. EN- 
 TRANCE OF ST. LAWJiENCE. KINGSTON. BAY OF 
 
 CiUINTE. 
 
 T left New Yi. > k i\.v Albany by the steamer, 
 and travelled i l-> miles with great comfort, 
 in nine hom'S, for a dollar and a half (6s.) 
 
 The Hudson is a noble stream. One bank, 
 for some miles after leaving New York, is covered 
 with country houses and their pleasure grounds; 
 the other is bounded by a flat ridge of rocks, 
 rising to a height of about 500 feet, forming a 
 strong contrast to the gently sloping shore of 
 the opposite baid-c. Above this the river ex- 
 pands into a br<jad sheet of water, called tlie 
 TM])])aan Zee. Next, the boat rapidly gli(h>s 
 through a succession of ap[)arentl}' snudl lakes. 
 
CANAIt\. 
 
 17:i 
 
 ; a 
 
 lox- 
 
 Itlic 
 
 (Ics 
 
 tos, 
 
 twistiiiM- and tuniiiijilliruu;j;li iilniipt prccijiitou.H 
 rocky IuHm, but covoivd with Hinall tlmhcu" totlio 
 wntcr'n cd^c. Tliis is tlio most bountiful jiart 
 of the Htrcam. Likti thu Rhino ibrfin^' its way 
 tlirougli tho Taunus ranji'o of liills, th( ^ m 
 
 is horo compoHod to yiohl to the lU'^nr .le 
 
 ground .Hoautiful, indeed, are the , e- 
 
 like expansions, whicli here form the r. 
 
 West Point, situated on the shore of one of tliese, 
 is a little Eden; and some care has been judi- 
 ciously exercised in not defacing this retired 
 nook, more than is absolutely necessary, by the 
 buildings of the well-known Military Academy. 
 West Point has been so often described, that it 
 is uimecessary for me to dwell upon it here. It 
 is the only military training school the United 
 States possess, and is regarded by the mass of 
 the people with great jealousy — some difficulty 
 being generally experienced in passing the an- 
 nual vote for its support through Congress. The 
 discipline maintained is very strict. Very many 
 of the students leave before their course of study 
 expires. Most young men are, in all countries, 
 impatient of restraint, and are particularly so in 
 America ; added to which, the military profes- 
 sion does not hold the same rank in society as 
 in other countries : it is simply tolerated as a 
 necessary nuisance. The army is very small 
 (about 9,000 men), and is chieily employed in 
 
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 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 
 
 (716) 873-4503 
 

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174 
 
 CAN.VDA. 
 
 
 ill 
 
 
 Illii 
 
 small dotaclnnents in the thankless, dull, inglo- 
 rious duty of guarding- the extended frontier of 
 tlie Union against the Indians. The irregular 
 force looks down upon the regular ; the colonel 
 of militia is a greater man than the colonel of 
 the regular army. The soldiers are almost all 
 Irish and Dutch, with some few deserters from 
 English regiments quartered in Canada. Few 
 native Americans will enlist — and they are 
 right ; no career offers so little inducement. 
 The officers are so scattered, that they have no 
 *' mess," which, in most services, promotes 
 esprit dii corps, and gives a higher tone both of 
 manners and feeling. 
 
 Above this the stream flows through a level 
 country, abounding in clean, snug little towns, 
 and here and there a residence of the better 
 class perched on some knoll, or on the shore of 
 a green little bay. These houses have inva- 
 riably some attempt at architectural beauty, and 
 none are without wide sweeping verandahs. At 
 Kingston the Kaatskill mountains, the scene of 
 Rip Van Winkle's twenty years' nap, come into 
 sight. This range is thickly timbered through- 
 out, and is some distance from the river ; the 
 intervening space being a level plain of about 
 ten or twelve miles broad, only partially cleared, 
 and thinly inhabited. The banks gradually 
 become more tame, the stream narrower, the 
 
 ill 
 
 ami 
 
CANADA. 
 
 17 
 
 At 
 
 me of 
 into 
 
 , the 
 
 (•uvrent more rapid ; and iiavij^atioii for vessels 
 of any burthen ceases at Troy, about five miles 
 above Albany. As far as Albany the average 
 width of the almost currentless stream is about 
 a mile ; and I myself saw a square-rigged ship 
 of about 400 tons burden lying off a wharf more 
 than 100 miles from New York. Its capabili- 
 ties for navigation may, therefore, be imagined. 
 On my return from Canada I landed at this 
 part of the river to pay a visit of a few days to 
 the far-famed Pine Orchard Hotel, situated on 
 this range of mountains, 3,000 feet above the 
 level of the sea. The ascent of the mountain 
 offers most lovely views over an immense ex- 
 tent of country ; and the spot on which the hotel 
 stands is one of the most striking in the world. 
 A small space, at the very brink of a precipice 
 1,500 feet deep, has been cleared ; on this, 
 within a fewyards of the edge, stands the hotel. 
 The view is magnificent. An immense tract of 
 country lies below } ou, through which the white 
 stream of the Hudson flows like a silken thread. 
 The dark foliage of the trees, and the little 
 towns on the margins of the stream, enable the 
 eye to trace its course mile after mile — until to 
 the south it is lost among the high lands about 
 West Point, and to the north among the hills 
 of Connecticut. The view extends at least 100 
 miles in every direction, prcscnthig a most ex- 
 
170 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 \H 
 
 I 
 
 ([uisite panorama of a large part of the States of 
 New York, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and 
 Vermont. One cannot help being struck with 
 the immense quantity of forest still standing, 
 the small part of the country which is under 
 arable cultivation, and the apparent spareness 
 of the population, in so old settled a district, 
 and so near a city which may be said to be, not 
 only the capital of the State of New York, but 
 of the whole Union. The scenery of the sur- 
 rounding mountain range is very beautiful, 
 though it scarcely rises into grandeur: dark 
 forests cover the surface, and deep ravines, with 
 small streamlets of water, intersect the range 
 eve**ywhere. The change in climate, too, is 
 great. I left Saratoga Springs in the month of 
 August, reduced, by the extreme heat, to a state 
 of almost tota^ blindness. In three or four days 
 the tonic ai the " Mountain House" com- 
 pletely restored my sight. The difference in 
 temperature was about thirty degrees (after sun- 
 set) ; though, during the day, not quite so much. 
 The banks of the river at Albany were 
 crowded with steamers of all sizes — one in par- 
 ticular, the " Empire City," being of 1,000 
 horse-power, and exactly the sixteenth of a mile 
 in length. In these river boats the machinery 
 is all on deck ; nothing, therefore, interferes 
 with the saloon below, which, in this boat, ran 
 
CANADA. 
 
 177 
 
 the whole length of the vessel, was elaborately- 
 decorated, and adorned from one end to the 
 other with carefully-painted marine and fancy 
 subjects- The deck was supported by graceful 
 Corinthian columns, showily gilded. This boat 
 was the crack vessel on the river, and had ac- 
 complished a speed of twenty-two miles an hour. 
 In the Hudson there is scarcely any current, 
 and the tide is but slightly felt ; the water is 
 smooth, the river wide, and not crowded with 
 vessels : nothing, therefore, interferes with the 
 management or great speed of these boats. The 
 wheel is forward on a raised deck, a few feet 
 from the bows ; the rudder chains are of iron, 
 and conducted along either side of the upper or 
 hurricane-deck on grooves and rollers. The 
 position of the wheel is very advantageous for 
 the man at the helm, as he has a perfect com- 
 mand of every object around him, andean steer 
 the vessel alongside the various wharves at 
 the stopping places with precision. Nothing, 
 indeed, can be more admirable than the way in 
 which this is managed; no time is lost, and 
 there is no noise or bustle. The Americans 
 take great pride in these boats, and spare no 
 expense upon them ; every possible comfort is 
 to be had on board ; and, from their peculiar 
 construction, there is good shelter from the 
 weather, without going below into a close cabin. 
 
m 
 m 
 
 
 178 
 
 N'F.W YOKK 
 
 Tho meals are well served; the "Bar" pro- 
 duces every kind of beveraj^e, from gin-slings 
 and brandy cock-tails to soda-water and mine- 
 ral water from the Saratoga and Balston 
 Springs. Tho barber's shop is never absent) 
 and always filled with candidates — for the razor. 
 Those Americans who travel much rarely shave 
 themselves. In English steam-boats the ladies 
 are generally worse accommodated than travel- 
 lers of the stronger sex. In America this is not 
 the case : the best part of the boat is reserved 
 for their accommodation. All must give way 
 to them. No man is admitted into the dining 
 saloon until all the ladies are seated at the 
 table, when they rush in pell-mell. After that, 
 should a lady require either, the chair is, with- 
 out ceremony, taken from under you, and the 
 plate from before you. No male epicure will 
 here be able to gratify his appetite with tit-bits. 
 Should he make an attempt to do so, it will bo 
 futile. ** A lady, sir !" is considered sufficient. 
 Away goes his plate, which can only be fol- 
 lowed by a sigh : remonstrance would be vain. 
 The Americans pride themselves upon this cour- 
 tesy to women, and consider it a sign of high 
 civilization ; and they are, no doubt, right ; but 
 it seemed to me to be carried to an extreme, 
 that women were treated like petted children, 
 and that they must often feel rather annoyed 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 179 
 
 " prn- 
 -sling-s 
 mine- 
 Jalston 
 ibsent, 
 5 razor. 
 Y shave 
 ) ladies 
 travel- 
 is is not 
 eserved 
 Lve way 
 I dining 
 at the 
 ter that, 
 with- 
 ind the 
 lure will 
 tit-bits, 
 will bo 
 fficient. 
 be fol- 
 e vain, 
 is cour- 
 of high 
 ht ; but 
 treme, 
 ildren, 
 nnoyed 
 
 than pleased by the excessive politeness and 
 consideration shown them. At the^same" time, 
 it is an honour to this country that an unpro- 
 tected woman of any age may travel through its 
 length and breadth, from Boston to New Or- 
 leans, from New York to the farthest West, 
 without an insult, or the slightest attempt to 
 take advantage of her youth or inexperience. 
 
 Let us, however, find our way through lines 
 of huge stores to Delavan's Hotel, and after tea 
 look around. This town, it is almost needless 
 to say, is one of the oldest in the States, was 
 founded by the early Dutch settlers, and is the 
 capital of the State of New York. Here the 
 Senate and House of Representatives for that 
 State hold their sittings. As Europeans are 
 often not well versed in the American consti- 
 tution, I may as well say that each State has 
 its own ^Senate and Representatives, its own 
 Governor, and its own courts of law and judges. 
 Besides this, it returns, according to its popu- 
 lation, a certain number of Senators and Repre- 
 sentatives to the federal government at Wash- 
 ington ; but within its own borders it is entirely 
 independent of the federal power; except in 
 certain cases, and on certain subjects, of suf- 
 ficient importance to concern the Union at large. 
 On all purely local matters it is practically an 
 
 independent power. 
 
 M 2 
 
: ' l| 
 
 180 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 II! 
 
 fii [' 
 
 The town is built on ground rising rather 
 abruptly from the river, and partakes largely 
 of the Dutch character. The main street, called 
 State-street, is broad and well built, but badly 
 paved, and full of rubbish and dirt; it ter- 
 minates in a garden or square, in which stands 
 the City Hall, State House, Academy, and 
 Shire Hall. The State House is in pure taste 
 and massive, the City Hall less so. The 
 Baptist Chapel of Ionic architecture is one of 
 the most imposing buildings in the town. Trees 
 abound in the streets, and the whole of the 
 upper part of the City is well laid out in good 
 streets and squares, devoted entirely to private 
 residences. A sombre, grave, old-fashioned 
 solidity and gravity reigns throughout this'part 
 of the town. Near the river, all is new, staring, 
 bustling and thriving, a thing of to-day, whereas 
 above we are carried back to the past, the era 
 of Hendrick Hudson and his immediate com- 
 panions. 
 
 Five miles above Albany on the other bank'of 
 the river, stands the rival town of Troy.' This 
 place is of far more recent origin, but has risen 
 rapidly, and bids fair to outstrip as a commer- 
 cial entrepot its older neighbour. The Erie 
 canal and the Mohawk river enter the Hudson 
 almost opposite Troy, which gives it an ad- 
 vantage over Albany. These towns, like Sparta 
 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 181 
 
 rather 
 
 argely 
 
 called 
 
 badly 
 
 it ter- 
 
 standa 
 
 y, and 
 
 re taste 
 
 The 
 
 one of 
 . Trees 
 
 of the 
 in good 
 
 private 
 shioned 
 his'part 
 staring, 
 whereas 
 
 the era 
 te com- 
 
 bank'of 
 This 
 
 as risen 
 
 lommer- 
 e Erie 
 
 Hudson 
 an ad- 
 Sparta 
 
 and Athens, have an undying feud and hatred 
 of each other. 
 
 A railroad of a rather indifferent kind, with 
 steep inclined planes, carried me through Sche- 
 nectady and Utica to Syracuse. There is but 
 one fare on American railroads, not as with us, 
 various classes. The carriages are all alike ; 
 they are long, have a passage through the centre, 
 from end to end, and rows of benches on either 
 side ; each holding two persons. In cold wea* 
 ther a stove is fixed in the passage of each car- 
 riage. On the outside at either end is a small 
 platform, partly surrounded by an iron railing ; 
 on this you can stand without danger, while 
 the train is in motion, and by means of it pass 
 from one carriage to another along the w^hole 
 train. This is a very great convenience. 
 
 Each train has a separate carriage for negroes 
 and coloured peoplr.\ who are not permitted to 
 ride in the same veiucle with their white bre- 
 thren. This is an anomaly in a Republic where 
 all profess to be equal ; but it has been so often 
 alluded to that I may be pardoned for not en- 
 larging much upon it here. 
 
 It does not of course touch the question of 
 slavery, New York being a non-slaveholding 
 State ; it is simply one, out of the many galling 
 ways, in which a free negro, in a free state, is 
 made conscious of his social inferiority. Indeed 
 
182 
 
 NEW YOKE 
 
 (although the readers and admirers of Uncle 
 Tom, and other similar tales, may not readily 
 believe it), the negro, when free in the eye of > 
 the law, is much less considerately or kindly 
 treated by his white follow citizens, than as a 
 slave, by his master. The reason probably is 
 this — a slave caniiot and dare not presume ; 
 kindness, nay even affection, may be shown to 
 him with impunity, ** whereas that free nigger 
 must be taught his place," and kept in it. 
 
 Those who have lived long among a large 
 negro population must and do know that social 
 equality is outof the question. Ask any European 
 *' whether he would like his sister to marry a 
 black man, though it were even Soulouque, J]m- 
 peror of Hayti." Wliat would be the answer ? 
 In the affirmative ? I trow not. A natural and 
 universal instinct says, Nay. The Americans 
 consider this a fair touchstone, and it is one in 
 common use among them when pressed upon the 
 point. They endeavour to palliate unnecessary 
 harshness by putting an extreme case, and 
 attack the judgment by an appeal to the feel- 
 ings. Circumstances, only known to the 
 initiated, partly excuse, but cannot justify,, the 
 extreme contumely with which free blacks are 
 treated in the non-slaveholding States. On this 
 subject, and that of slavery, the Americans are 
 very sensitive. Few defend slavery in the ab- 
 
 n|: 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 IS.! 
 
 nericaiis 
 
 stract ; it Is adinittod to be a gross wrong, and 
 unjustifiable; but those who, from residence in 
 the Southern States, are competent to give an 
 opinion, state emphatically, that the few cases 
 which have, during the last few years, been so 
 ably, painfully, but dramatically brought before 
 the public, are most unfair representations of 
 the practical working of the system, as a whole, 
 and with reference to the negro character. There 
 are many sober-thinking people in the free 
 states who are of opinion that the excessive zeal 
 of the Abolitionists has done more harm than 
 good ; that the high-spirited planters and slave- 
 holders in the south have been more irritated 
 than convinced by their agitation ; and that 
 what would have been gradually given up under 
 a more gentle pressure from without, will be 
 adhered to pertinaciously, when coercion and 
 abuse are the weapons of attack. I am by no 
 means sure that there is not a good deal of force 
 in this opinion, from my own observation of the 
 character and temperament of the southern 
 planters. 
 
 Until the railway enters the valley of the 
 Mohawk, the country is barren and desolate. 
 This stream runs through a well-settled and fer- 
 tile country. Village succeeds village in rapid 
 succession — the district being thickly peo]3led. 
 In many places, as at the " Little Falls of the 
 
I 
 
 (! 
 
 184 
 
 NKW YOUK 
 
 ^lolmwk," the country assumes a rocky, iii^ged 
 but highly-picturesque character. At this spot 
 there are several large woollen mills, and the 
 district has, in consequence, every api)earance 
 of prosperity. At the railway station crowds 
 of people attend, offering sparkling little stones, 
 something like the Brighton diamonds, for sale. 
 Between this place and Herkimer there are large 
 colonies of Germans, who, when they emigrate, 
 usually do so in large numbers. Not only 
 whole families, but frequently the entire popu- 
 lation of a considerable district, leave their 
 home together, cross the Atlantic in the same 
 ship, and occupy the same tract of their adopted 
 country. In many parts of the United States, 
 and particularly so in Pennsylvania and >^ew 
 York, a traveller might imagine himself in 
 Germany. The dress, the language, and the 
 habits of their fatherland, are so religiously ad- 
 hered to by these sober, industrious, but rather 
 ignorant colonists, that the Anglo-Saxon ele- 
 ment modifies hardly perceptibly their distinc- 
 tive nationality. I think that at Harrisburg, 
 in Pennsylvania, I noticed this more than in 
 any other part of the States visited by me — 
 though about German flats and Herkimer it is 
 also very marked. At Harrisburgh, even the 
 newspaper offered to me was written in the 
 German language. They arc considered in the 
 
 Uil 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 185 
 
 States to be what CharleB Dickens calls tlio 
 Hudson Bay Company — viz., " Stop-the • Way" 
 people — and the repudiating Pennsylvanians lay 
 the entire blame of the non-payment some years 
 ago of the interest on their State debt to the 
 German influence in the local legislature. The 
 debt was incurred by the construction of 
 canals and railways ; which, crossing the Alle- 
 ghany mountains, opened up the Western States. 
 The facility, therefore, with which emigrants 
 could obtain access to the fertile, cheap land of 
 Ohio, induced them to pass by the already settled 
 districts in Pennsylvania, where land was com- 
 paratively dear ; and consequently it was found 
 that the farms occupied by the Pennsylvanian 
 settlers did not increase in value, as it was anti- 
 cipated they would do, by those who first re- 
 claimed them from the forest. The Germans, 
 therefore, said — ^* We have been injm'ed instead 
 of benefitted by your internal improvements, 
 and consequently wo will not tax ourselves to 
 pay for the outlay incurred." 
 
 The trains stop frequently for refreshments, 
 which consist chiefly of pastry and other 
 kindred eatables. Amazing cups of tea are 
 swallowed in an almost scalding state. The 
 hotels in this part of the State of New York 
 are chiefly conducted on the temperance prin- 
 ciple. The feeling against drinking is ge- 
 
I ' n l> ' ! 
 
 im\ 
 
 ' ' iiiiii 
 
 'ill 
 
 ,ii 
 
 
 IP! 
 mi 
 
 Wm 
 
 !l!l 
 
 186 
 
 NKVV YORK 
 
 neral. Active measures are taken to sup- 
 press it, and, it appeared to me, with success. 
 The newspapers are full of articles against this 
 vice, and the walls of the hotels covered with 
 highly-coloured prints, professing to show the 
 state of the interaal economy of those who drink 
 spirits to any extent — from the mere occasional 
 sipper of a glass, to the confirmed sot. The 
 gradations of inflammatory action were too care- 
 fully regulated to be strictly true to nature. 
 Where the worst stage was depicted, the eye 
 could scarcely rest on the subject for a moment, 
 so horribly disgusting did it appear! As a 
 warning, these prints, doubtless, do good. At 
 Baggs's Hotel, in Utica (where I dined and 
 slept), about forty people were at table, and not 
 one drank anything but tea and water. Very 
 few afterwards went to the bar to drink, which, 
 in the more Southern States, is the usual prac- 
 tice. Wines are exceedingly dear throughout 
 the Union. No decent Madeira, which is the 
 favourite wine, is anywhere to be had for less 
 than one-and-a-half or two dollars the bottle : 
 other wines are about the same price. There 
 is a Madeira (Governor Kirby's) in the Astor 
 House wine list at fifteen dollars a bottle. I 
 wonder who drinks it. In New York a great 
 quantity of Champagne (real and fictitious) is 
 consumed. It is said that much of it is manu- 
 fac^tured froiri Ncu' .ler.suy turnips. 
 
 -.-v..-*f«"<^^jrrT 
 
TO CANADA, 
 
 187 
 
 The evenings hang heavily on a traveller's 
 hands in most of the towns in the States. The 
 bar, with the commercial tone of its conversa- 
 tion, and the other public rooms, are but indif- 
 ferent lounges. One's own bed-room is not a 
 tempting place for any other purpose than sleep. 
 Public amusements worth going to, are rarely 
 found ; nor are there any of those cheap, agree- 
 able caf^s and other lounges which abound in 
 Continental towns. Utica is, in this respect, 
 quite en regie; and, indeed, I found it so 
 throughout the States, except at the large cities 
 on the seacoast. 
 
 The distinctive characteristics of pure, un- 
 adulterated Yankeeism, are largely developed 
 in Utica: even the passings traveller will at 
 once detect this. It is a manufacturing town, 
 and highly flourishing, and will doubtless, as 
 they say for themselves, still go-ahead. 
 
 Exceedingly unfavourable weather prevented 
 my visiting the Trenton Falls, which lie a few 
 miles from this place ; and I was obliged to con- 
 tent myself with a stroll through the Museum, 
 in which were exhibited, as a curiosity, a pair 
 of ordinary half- boots worn by labouring men 
 at home. Under them was this inscription — 
 " Shoes such as are worn by the peasantry in 
 England !" Even the ploughman in the States 
 does his work in Wellington boots, and would 
 scorn to be shod in iinv other nuuiner. Some 
 
 ■(I 
 h 
 
188 
 
 KEW TOKK 
 
 Rlih-ill 
 
 of the streets are very pretty and neat. Little 
 white porticoed and pillared dwellings, snugly 
 placed each in its small garden, a light-painted 
 fence dividing it from the pavements — every 
 window being", as usual, provided with green 
 Venetian blinds — line each side. The pave- 
 ment is shaded by a row of trees planted on the 
 outside of the path. These cottages must please 
 an English eye, being pictures of order, clean- 
 liness, and comfort. It would be unfair to cri- 
 ticise the taste of the architecture of these little 
 pill-boxes. They are beneath criticism, and yet 
 immeasurably above it. 
 
 As usual, the place abounds with gigantic red 
 brick stores — hideous, but useful. An auc- 
 tioneer, standing on a barrel in the street sell- 
 ing goods, amused me infinitely. Clever 
 roguery, amazing quickness, perseverance, low 
 wit, and apparently instinctive knowledge of 
 character, were disi)layed by this man. 
 
 No one but a Yankee could have done it in 
 the same style. Those who have read — and 
 who has not? — Halliburton's *' Sam Slick," 
 may have some notion of this man's soft sawder, 
 and mode of doing business ; but he appeared 
 to me to distance liis prototype hollow. 
 
 The country between this place and Syracuse 
 is flat and uninteresting, and very thinly set- 
 tled. Even the City of Uonie consists of a few 
 
To CANADA. 
 
 189 
 
 Little 
 snugly- 
 painted 
 —every 
 h green 
 B pave- 
 L on the 
 t please 
 ■, clean- 
 r to cri- 
 se little 
 and yet 
 
 ntic red 
 in auc- 
 Bet sell- 
 Clever 
 low 
 )dge of 
 
 le it in 
 1 — and 
 Slick," 
 awder, 
 peared 
 
 racuse 
 ly set- 
 :' a few 
 
 ce. 
 
 ambitious taverns, and a log hut or two. Tho 
 City of Syracuse, on the contrary, has advanced 
 with giant strides, and is a place of large popu- 
 lation and commercial importance. It is built 
 in a most excellent commercial position. The 
 Buffalo Railroad and the Erie Canal run through 
 it, and the Oswego Canal brings down to this 
 point the commerce of Lake Ontario. 
 
 This canal conveyed me next day to Oswego. 
 The boat was good, but very full of passengers 
 and baggage. The speed attained is great ; at 
 times six miles an hour. Everything as usual 
 was well managed and arranged ; done on the 
 go a-head principle and well — nationally cha- 
 racteristic. A functionary, who performed the 
 arduous and double duty of barber and steward, 
 after some time came on deck, and while ring- 
 ing a bell, chaunted in good nasal tones — 
 
 " All you who have not paid your fare, 
 Step down* you'll find the Captain there/' 
 
 which poetical command was immediately 
 obeyed by all ; for nothing can exceed the im- 
 plicit obedience always yielded at once by the 
 Americans when travelling to those in authority 
 on railroads, steamers, or stages, or the good 
 temper with which any mishap is borne. This 
 struck me as being a curious trait in the 
 American character, for no people on other oc- 
 casions like to feel the curb of authority less. 
 
190 
 
 NEW YOKK 
 
 i ! 
 
 f'l jli 
 
 It is so, liowcver, as I have repeatedly wit- 
 nessed. When an Englishman will fume, and 
 fret, and perhaps swear, the American says it 
 cannot be helped, and quietly goes to work to 
 mend matters as soon as possible. 
 
 The number of bridges is a great nuisance, 
 as many of these scarcely clear the deck by 
 more than two feet. When this is the case, the 
 scramble and crushing which takes place when 
 the deck is thickly covered with people may 
 be imagined. A warning voice continually 
 exclaims **high bridge," or '* low bridge," ac- 
 cording to circumstances ; and the rule of polite 
 life is reversed ; the lower the object, the more 
 abject the bow. 
 
 The locks are numerous and the boat is drawn 
 into them at full speed. At first, I supposed 
 it would be seriously injured ; but the mode 
 adopted to prevent this is simple and effectual. 
 A coil of rope attached to the boat is always 
 ready. When the bow enters the lock, a man 
 instantly jumps ashore, passes the rope three 
 or four times round a strong post, driven for 
 the purpose, and gently eases the boat in. The 
 rope becomes, by the constant and excessive 
 friction, quite limp, although strong, and does 
 its work admirably. Those who know how 
 much care is usually required in stopping a 
 heavy boat with a momentum acquired by a five 
 
 \ 
 
lly tvit- 
 ne, and 
 1 says it 
 work to 
 
 uisance 
 
 deck by 
 iasO) the 
 ce when 
 )le may 
 tinually 
 ge," ao- 
 :>{ polite 
 he more 
 
 s drawn 
 
 upposed 
 
 le mode 
 
 Tectual. 
 
 always 
 
 a man 
 
 e three 
 
 ven for 
 
 n. The 
 
 tcessive 
 
 ad does 
 
 w how 
 
 »ping a 
 
 y a five 
 
 TO CANADA. 
 
 19t 
 
 or SIX miles speed through water, will imagine 
 that it must require some skill and practice to 
 do this well, in so small a space as an ordinary 
 lock. 
 
 The canal sometimes enters and merges in 
 the Onondaga river, and at others is cut 
 parallel to it, but never leaves its banks far. 
 For the first few miles after leaving Syracuse, 
 the Onondaga lake is close to the canal on the 
 loft, and very large salt works are carried on, 
 at a place called Salina. The borings from 
 whence the salt is obtained are sunk in the 
 marshy ground which borders the lake. The 
 springs are excessively saline ; as much as six- 
 teen or eighteen pounds of pure salt are obtained 
 from one hundred pounds weight of water. The 
 manufacture is carried on in three different 
 modes. By solar evaporation in large wooden 
 vats, about a foot deep ; by evaporation also in 
 large iron pans; and thirdly by boiling the 
 water in what are termed ** blocks" of deep 
 kettles, ranged in parallel rows. The last is 
 the most expeditious mode, but the salt yielded 
 is not so pure. In this last process, quicklime 
 is used, which precipitates whatever impurities 
 there may be in the water. An immense space 
 is covered by the evaporating vats, and the 
 surface of the ground for several miles is more 
 or less encrusted with chrystallized salt. The 
 
i * 
 
 IS-i 
 
 192 
 
 NFAV YORK 
 
 if III! 
 
 'i 
 
 i i 
 
 I i!' 
 
 annual produce amounts to nearly 5,000,000 
 bushels. I state this on the authority of the 
 most recent returns, which (as these saltworks are 
 the property of the State of New York, and not 
 of private individuals), I presume, are correct. 
 
 The falls in the river near Oswego are very 
 beautiful. In some directions the country is 
 rather pretty, which, indeed, is almost univer- 
 sally the case, wherever there is water not in 
 the nature of a swamp. The number of small 
 lakes is one of the leading features of this State. 
 
 In the Genessee country, and still further to 
 the south, they literally abound. Generally, 
 tlieir length is far greater than their width ; the 
 former sometimes reaching twenty-five or thirty 
 miles ; the latter rarely more than five or six. 
 They add to the beauty, but interfere with the 
 resources, of the country, and intercept commu- 
 nication, as they are seldom navigable, except 
 for small boats. Like overgrown schoolboys, 
 they are large enough to be troublesome and in 
 the way, and not big enough to be useful. Lake 
 Champlain, to the north, is, of course, an excep- 
 tion; and its neighbour, Lake George, is so 
 lovely, that it would be almost a pity to furrow 
 its tranquil bosom with mere merchantmen. 
 Let the gliding canoe, or the gay pleasure boat, 
 be borne on its surface ; but save it, oh ! ye 
 race of traders, from the barge or the scow. 
 
 i!N!i 
 
V 
 
 TO CANADA. 
 
 193 
 
 )00,000 
 T of the 
 orks are 
 and not 
 correct, 
 ire very 
 intry is 
 ; univer- 
 r not in 
 of small 
 lis State, 
 irther to 
 3nerally, 
 dth ; the 
 or thirty 
 or six. 
 with the 
 cominu- 
 I, except 
 lolboys, 
 |e and in 
 Lake 
 excep- 
 |e, is so 
 fiirrow 
 mtmen^ 
 Ire boat, 
 oh ! ye 
 tow. 
 
 On my return from Canada, by the way of 
 Lake Champlain, I passed by this lake. Almost 
 every one is familiar with the exceeding beauty 
 of this little gem of Transatlantic scenery, and 
 has shuddered over the pages of history which 
 record the fearful tragedies enacted on its banks. 
 For four years, from 1755 to 1759, the sweet 
 repose of this lovely lake, was disturbed by the 
 din, tumult, and complicated horrors, of a san- 
 guinary and savage war. And again, during 
 the protracted struggle which ended in the 
 severance of the connection between this coun- 
 try and England, many passages of arms took 
 place here between the belligerent forces, though 
 none equalling in savage atrocity, those of Mont- 
 calm and his Indian allies. 
 
 Places of real historical interest are rare in this 
 comparatively new country ; and, as I gazed on 
 the scene around me, I could not help thinking 
 how great is the privilege enjoyed by a people, 
 who can point out few such tranquil spots as 
 this, rendered famous, or infamous, by the fierce 
 passions and strife of man. 
 
 The best land, and the most improved in the 
 State of New York for farming purposes, lies 
 between Auburn and Buffalo. This Genesee 
 country is celebrated throughout the Union. 
 Land, therefore, is dear. An improved farm is 
 nowhere to be had under forty dollars an acre, 
 
 N 
 
I I 
 
 !i1 
 
 
 ;■■''■';! 
 
 IIP 
 
 m\\ 
 
 'Pili 
 iii'ji 
 
 Cil! 
 
 104 
 
 NKW YOKK 
 
 niitl, in many j)lnces, double this sum. Tlie 
 price of everything, all over the world, is regu- 
 lated by the advantages to bo derived from the 
 purchase, except in those things which are mere 
 luxuries. 
 
 Land at a dollar an acre, uncleared, will often 
 bo dearer to the purchaser, than improved land 
 at fifty times that sum. The poor man must go 
 farther, buy cheap, labour, and take his chance ; 
 but the farmer with good capital would do well 
 to give this district a look before proceeding be- 
 yond it. Yet let him take care that he does not 
 buy a *' used-up" farm ; for land, even in the 
 favoured Genesee country, may be run out by 
 twelve successive grain crops without manure* 
 The fruit grown in this part of the State is most 
 excellent ; and the hot sun of summer gives a 
 flavour to wall fruits unknown in England. 
 
 This is, however, a digression. We have no 
 business now in the Genesee country, but are 
 supposed to be at the United States Hotel at 
 Oswego. 
 
 The town is built on the banks of the river 
 Oswego, over which has been constructed a 
 long, rough wooden bridge. Limestone being 
 largely used in the buildings, gives it a less 
 crude and staring appearance than most other 
 towns in this part of the world. From its posi- 
 tion, as the nearest port on^Lake Ontario to New 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 195 
 
 n. 
 
 The 
 
 , 18 regu- 
 from the 
 are mere 
 
 wiW often 
 )ved land 
 1 must go 
 s chance ; 
 d do well 
 jedingbc- 
 3 does not 
 en in the 
 in out by 
 t manure* 
 ite is most 
 sr gives a 
 .and. 
 
 e have no 
 , but are 
 Hotel at 
 
 the river 
 itructed a 
 )ne being 
 
 it a less 
 lost other 
 
 its posi- 
 io to New 
 
 York and the Eastern States, it should become 
 a place of great trade. It lias, nevertheless, 
 been long stationary, if not retrograding. A 
 few lake craft were lying in the harbour. The 
 Erie Canal and the St. liawreiice are its rivals 
 for the carrying trade from the Western country ; 
 but I was informed that, notwithstanding these 
 are formidable competitors, this place should be 
 able, not only to compete with them, but to do 
 so successfully. Somehow or other it docs not, 
 and, therefore, I cannot help thinking it ought 
 not ; for mercantile men rarely err in those 
 matters. 
 
 A trip of four hours in the Oneida steamer 
 took me across Lake Ontario to Kingston. The 
 day was hazy, and we, therefore, soon lost sight 
 of land. The appearance of these large fresh- 
 water lakes, differs but slightly from that of the 
 sea ; and, as the motion was considerable, many 
 persons were sick. The distance from Oswego 
 to Kingston is between fifty and sixty miles. 
 The entrance to the St. Lawrence river at Kings- 
 ton is very beautiful ; the shores are wooded to 
 the water's edge ; and, although rather low, are 
 prettily cut up into little bays ; while smooth 
 channels of clear, pellucid water, separate from 
 each other the charming little islands which 
 here abound. 
 
 Kingston is built entirely of limestone : there 
 
 N 
 
 o 
 
Miif 
 
 \f i 
 
 HMi 
 
 NKW YOHK 
 
 '•il 
 
 : ii^ 
 
 I I ' 'in 
 
 ;';i!i:''i' 
 
 is not a bri<!k Imildiiiji; in the |)1ji<m\ Dsily'rt 
 llotol looked dirty and mean, aftt^r tlio lar^o, 
 wi'll-conducted OHtahliHlnncnts found ovory- 
 wlioro in tlio United StatoH. I found that tliin 
 was the case all over Canada, except Montreal. 
 They are far behind their neighbours in every- 
 tliinfi^ but the glass used in their establishments. 
 In Caiuida it is pure and white ; in the States 
 green-coloured, and dirty -looking. Every one 
 nuist aihnit that a good tumbler is a luxury ; 
 and most ladies prefer that their looking-glass 
 should not cast a pea-green shade over their 
 complexion. 
 
 While the seat of government was at Kings- 
 ton (in the time of Sir C, Metcalfe), great im- 
 provements were made to meet the immediate 
 wants of the Government officials ; but it has 
 not increased much, either in population or 
 commerce, since that time. 
 
 The same evening I proceeded to my desti- 
 nation, on the bay of Quint(5, by steamer. This 
 bay begins about seven miles from Kingston, 
 and varies in width from three and a half miles 
 to a mile. A long, low island, first divides it 
 from the main lake of Ontario. The bay thence 
 turns in winding bends between Princo Ed- 
 ward's peninsula and the main land for about 
 forty more ; the shores are limestone, and well 
 wooded, in most places to the water's edge — 
 
 i"^-.. 
 
TO CANADA. 
 
 107 
 
 1 1 
 
 Ihily'rt 
 le largo, 
 
 evory- 
 that tluH 
 lontroul. 
 n ovory- 
 nhmontH. 
 10 States 
 very one 
 L luxury ; 
 :iiig-glas8 
 vor their 
 
 at Kings- 
 great im- 
 nmediate 
 ut it has 
 ation or 
 
 my desti- 
 ler. This 
 Kingston, 
 alf miles 
 livides it 
 a-y thence 
 inco Ed- 
 br about 
 and well 
 s cdffo — 
 
 groat (juantitioH of ct'dar trees and iirs dipping 
 their brunches into the water, its natural beau- 
 ties are very great : it abounds in iish ; some 
 of the best shooting in Canada is within a short 
 distance of its shores, and the land, for fanning 
 purposes, is not much inferior to that in the most 
 favoured districts. The climate is less severe at 
 Kingston than it is lower down the St. Law- 
 'renco, at Montreal or Quebec, but more so than 
 at the other end of Lake Ontario and the re- 
 mainder of the Province of Canada West (or, as 
 it is usually called), lJpi)er Canada. It is not, 
 therefore, surprising that this district should bo 
 well settled ; though it does not deserve, in my 
 o})inion, the very high character which some 
 person writing from Picton, in Prince PMward's 
 peninsula, has lately given it. When I read his 
 letters in a leading morning paper in England, 
 I could not but hope that there would be few, 
 who would act upon them. The following ex- 
 tract from a settlor in this district, of some years' 
 experience, may not be thought out of place 
 here : — 
 
 ** The letters to which you allude, which were 
 published in England, I saw copied into our 
 local papers. I do not, at this moment, recol- 
 lect their precise tenor ; but, if they were 
 founded on fact at all, they were not only a 
 striking exception to the general rule, but also 
 
 '!..*. 
 
 ■m 
 
V.)S 
 
 Ni;\V Vt>UK 
 
 !'; li!i!i 
 
 •■i:ii 
 
 
 lii^lily coloured l>y tlu? Hiin«'irinoox|)OotatIoiiRof 
 a recent Hettlor, but little experienced in the 
 country. Anything like |)roH[)erity amon^ the 
 ItirnierB \h very far from the cry, and e(|ually ho 
 from the fact, 1 can assure you. The Canadian 
 farmer is independent, becau^o Ik* hns no rent 
 to pay, and no taxoH of any i onaKjui r.oo ; but lie 
 18 a thorouj^hly hard- work i^u.; in:in from Hunriso 
 to sunset in all wcj.ther >ind in all seasons. I'ho 
 same is the case with his wife nnd daug-htcrs in 
 their own sphere. We are, in fact, peasants on 
 one side of the picture, and, on the other, in a 
 condition infinitely sn[)erior. The great draw- 
 back upon farming hero is the high — indeed the 
 inordinately high — rate of wages paid to all 
 labourers or domestic servants. 
 
 *' To talk of farming at a profit, or almost at 
 all, while the prices of produce are so inconsis- 
 tent with the price of labour, is a farce. I can 
 only say that on my property I have found it 
 for the last few years more prudent and advan- 
 tageous to banish, except at long intervals and 
 indispensable occasions, all hired labourers. 
 \V and T <io the entire vv I'k; and the de- 
 gree t vli'-h abour Oil a farm can, under these 
 circumstances, be restricted, and the amount 
 which we can ourselves perform, would jsurprise 
 you. I do not deny that we sometimes rebel, 
 and that the word ' drudgery' comes upper- 
 
 i'l! 
 
TO CANAI»A. 
 
 \m 
 
 tatioiiflof 
 id in the 
 TioTijjf tho 
 
 [MllUllly HO 
 
 Camulittii 
 H no rent 
 .0 ; but he 
 m Hunriso 
 »ona. Tlio 
 ij^btcrs in 
 casants on 
 ther, in a 
 •eat draw- 
 ndeod tho 
 ^d to all 
 
 almost at 
 > inconsis- 
 e. I can 
 found it 
 id advan- 
 rvals and 
 abourcrs. 
 Id the de- 
 dcr these 
 amount 
 surprise 
 es rc\)el, 
 s ujjper- 
 
 most W'*b an u«^ly houikI but you must make 
 Bumo allowance tor our antecedents. We get on 
 pretty well; but all thouj/ht of profit from farm- 
 ing has been abandoned by me for uiy years 
 past. I agrf>e with you, therefore, in linking, 
 that it is very wrong to place b(ifore tht public 
 a statement, which experience wou/d not con- 
 firm." 
 
 Before I describe this part of Canadfi ind my 
 mode of life during many monthn, I will {twkt. e 
 reader to accompany me to Niagara Fall and 
 their neighboui'h* od. 
 
 e oo ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 •.:l'J1 
 
 \W 
 
i ■ 
 
 r 
 
 ,! ; 1 
 
 ! ■, 
 't 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 iU'i ' ',1 li'l'i||i 
 
 li 
 
 III I 
 
 
 !i!'|!!i|l!!!!!l 
 
 .M\ 
 
 m 
 
 a: I 
 
 I'll 
 'I'll 
 
 200 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 CHAPTER VIIT. 
 KINGSTON TO NIAGARA.— coburg.— port 
 
 HOPE. ^TORONTO. APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN. 
 
 YONGE STREET. LAKE SIMCOE. PROSPECTS OP 
 
 FARMING. NIAGARA RIVER. QUEENSTOWN AND 
 
 LEWISTOWN. brock's MONUMENT. RAILROAD 
 
 TO THE FALLS. CLIFTON HOTEL. ^FERRY. TER- 
 MINATION ROCK. — ^A FEW WORDS ON THE FALLS. — 
 
 WHIRLPOOL. HOT SPRINGS AT CHIPPEWA. THE 
 
 RAPIDS. MANCHESTER. BUFFALO. LAKE ERIE. 
 
 HIGH PRESSURE STEAMER. PORT ROWAN. 
 
 DEER SHOOTING. PINE BARRENS. ^AGUE. 
 
 MAPLE SUGAR. RELIGIOUS RANTING. ^VICTORIA. 
 
 SIMCOE. BRANTFORD. HAMILTON. RETURN 
 
 TO KINGSTON. 
 
 l^f Y two companions in this excursion, were 
 desirous of seeing some of the Western 
 part of the Province, before they determined 
 upon purchasing land, on the shores of the Bay 
 of Quints ; although much pleased with that 
 part of the country. We left, therefore, for 
 Kingston, early in the morning, and wandered 
 about that peculiarly uninteresting place, until 
 eight in the evening, when the steamer left for 
 Toronto. The distance is about 160 miles. 
 The fare was five dollars, and every comfort 
 
 ■|i"! 
 
 'H'l ^ 
 
•- M, 
 
 r;*/*'^ 
 
 .-■'■f/; 
 
 \. — PORT 
 
 TOWN. 
 
 ECTS OF 
 
 >WN AND 
 
 ;ailroad 
 
 y. ^TER- 
 
 PALLS. 
 
 TA. THE 
 
 KE ERIE. 
 
 OWAN. 
 
 AGUE. 
 
 ICTORLA. 
 [-RETURN 
 
 n, were 
 Western 
 Brmined 
 the Bay 
 til that 
 
 ore, 
 
 an 
 
 for 
 dered 
 
 e 
 
 until 
 
 left for 
 
 miles. 
 
 omfort 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 201 
 
 provided for the passengers. An accident to 
 the machinery, compelled us to perform the 
 greater part of the distance, with only one 
 wheel ; which, of course, delayed us some hours. 
 We touched at Coburg and at Port Hope. The 
 former is a flourishing place, with a fine hilly- 
 back country ; the latter, particularly beautiful 
 in situation, with also a good fertile district 
 lying behind it. The banks of the Lake are 
 not very low, neither is there any headland or 
 range of country of any height ; flatness is the 
 great characteristic of the whole upper province. 
 There is but one range of hills, reaching a 
 height of 300 or 400 feet. This ridge begins in 
 the neighbourhood of the Falls, and runs through 
 the whole province to the eastward ; being 
 called its backbone. The appearance of Toronto 
 from the water is by no means imposing, and, 
 unlike Kingston, nearly every house is of red 
 brick, and peculiarly English-looking. 
 
 A long spit, or tongue of land, juts far out 
 into the lake, on the Kingston side, forming 
 the harbour; vessels, therefore, coming from 
 the eastward, must make a long detour before 
 they can enter. 
 
 We took up oiu* quarters at the American 
 Hotel. The streets are regular and wide, and 
 the shops excellent ; but, even at this season of 
 the year (June), muddy ruts, four or five inches 
 
ii 
 
 11 
 
 ililliP! 
 
 -1 1 
 
 'P 'II 
 
 ! Ii lli 
 
 i^:piil!jil!iii 
 
 iiiji 
 
 iliiiiii 
 
 
 Wm 
 
 202 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 in depth, cut up the roads in every direction. 
 Out of the main streets the houses are generally 
 detached, and have very pretty little gardens. 
 Many nursery and seedmen's shops show that 
 a taste for flowers and gardening is general. 
 Being the oldest place in Upper Canada, and 
 long the seat of government, it has possessed 
 many advantages ; and the result is apparent, 
 in an air of refinement, and prosperity. The 
 Law Courts are still here ; the College is well- 
 managed, and beautifully situated. The popu- 
 lation is about 20,000. We made an excursion 
 up Yonge Street, for about twenty miles, on the 
 road to Lake Simcoe; the ground undulates. 
 This road is macadamized, with here and there 
 a patch of *' corduroy ;" the most villainous style 
 of road-making in existence; logs, split into 
 two pieces, are laid across the road, and the 
 interstices filled with mud. When quite new 
 and sound, this mode of roadmaking is bearable, 
 but it very soon, in all cases, gets out of order ; 
 huge gaps form between the logs, into which 
 the wheels plunge, at almost every turn. The 
 jolting is horrible : no other pace than a walk is 
 at all bearable, and even that, in a Canada 
 waggon without springs, often induces a novice 
 to prefer walking, to the constant bumping of 
 these miserable vehicles. Custom in this, as in 
 other things, gradually reconciles you, and 
 
irection. 
 enerally 
 wardens, 
 ow that 
 general, 
 da, and 
 ossessed 
 pparent, 
 jr. The 
 is well- 
 le popu- 
 xcursion 
 3, on the 
 idulates. 
 id there 
 )U8 style 
 ►lit into 
 and the 
 ite new 
 earable, 
 order ; 
 which 
 The 
 walk is 
 Canada 
 novice 
 pmg of 
 ixa in 
 and 
 
 u 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 203 
 
 practice teaches, that all parts of the waggon arc 
 not equally uneasy, " as in life, the middle place 
 is best." The country was cheerless, the farm- 
 buildings unfinished, and few crops growing in 
 the fields ; like an old Rou^, it was withering 
 under hard usage. We looked over several 
 farms: some were good, others bad, but all high- 
 priced relatively. Many large tracts were 
 covered with pine trees, and, therefore, other- 
 wise barren. 
 
 About ten miles from Toronto the land im- 
 proves. Nearly every farmer appeared to be 
 not only willing but desirous of parting with his 
 land — if a purchaser could be found — denoting 
 either that farming is unremunerative, or the 
 farmer extravagant, and, therefore, involved. 
 The truth is, that people come to the colony 
 with small resources and old-oountry habits, 
 and soon dissipate whatever capital they bring 
 with them. Discontent, neglect of their busi- 
 ness, and reckless improvidence, follow. Too 
 much is expected from a small capital ; and it 
 is only when too late, that emigrants find out the 
 real truth, that none but hard-working, careful 
 people, can succeed here — unless backed by an 
 income, drawn from other sources than their 
 farms. 
 
 The Queen Victoria steamer carried us from 
 Toronto to Niagara in three and a half hours. 
 
 ^:^ 
 

 
 1 
 
 iii 
 
 i. : ' 
 
 HI 
 
 ! 
 
 1 i; 
 ' ! 
 11 
 
 i| 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ ii! 
 
 
 
 i ■■ i; 
 Ii \\ 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 Illli 
 
 i !!i 
 
 I! P 
 
 ^'''ili'iili 
 
 I- 
 $ 
 
 "lis. 
 
 iH 
 
 Ii:!' 
 
 lips 
 nil 
 
 ;^}m 
 
 204 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 This little town is at the mouth of the Niagara 
 river. Opposite is an American fort, which 
 seemed much neglected. The river is not 
 broad ; but, as all the water from the upper 
 lakes is carried off by this stream, the current 
 is strong. 
 
 The Hon. Mr. H. has a beautifully situ- 
 ated seat on the Canada shore, where green- 
 drooping branches dip into the water most 
 charmingly. At Queenstown the bank rises 
 abruptly to a considerable height, and all navi- 
 gation ceases, as the stream from hence to the 
 Falls is a continued rapid. 
 
 Queenstown and Lewistown are visa-vis: 
 the one on the Canada ; the other on the Ame- 
 rican shore. A monument to General Brock 
 still stands on a height above Queenstown — a 
 melancholy witness of what spite and malice 
 will strive to eflfcct. The attempt to blow it up 
 is attributed to the Americans ; but they assert 
 it was made by a disaffected Canadian. Be this 
 as it may, the column is only cracked, not shat- 
 tered. It has not been repaired. A very indif- 
 ferent railroad, leads from the heights of Queens- 
 town along the level ground, to the Falls. The 
 ride is pretty. This being frontier country, it 
 has been the scene of many battles and skir- 
 mishes, with varying success. 
 
 Our first view of tlie Falls was from the Clif- 
 
 i^. 
 
 4 
 
CANAT>A. 
 
 205 
 
 leens- 
 The 
 
 skir- 
 
 Clif- 
 
 ton Hotel, near the bank of the river ; though a 
 low, heavy, subdued, but all-pervading sound, 
 had long before told us of our propinquity to 
 them. It was evening: clouds were passing 
 over the moon ; we walked down to the ferry, 
 opposite the American Fall : and, returning, 
 strolled along the road at the edge of the beach, 
 catching at each step view after view, each in 
 succession, more entrancing than the last. At 
 length we reached the Great British, or Horse- 
 Slioe Fall, and stood within two or three yards 
 of the mass of water curling over the ledge. 
 When a transient gleam swept over the rapids, 
 and glanced on the crest of the Falls, what a 
 scene was before us ! Every one must admit 
 that language cannot be made to rise to such 
 extreme majesty. Niagara utterly defies all 
 description : it is without a parallel in Nature ; 
 tlie mind can only grasp it through the external 
 senses; it must be seen and heard — not frit- 
 tered away and toned down through the cold 
 medium of a string of expletives and superla- 
 tives. There is, besides, something almost sacred 
 in the thoughts and feelings to which such a 
 scene gives rise : he who feels it most, will say 
 the least. You cannot prattle in the face of 
 such sublimity. 
 
 The next morning, having determined upon 
 going behind the Fall, we, for that pui'posc, 
 
 
 1 
 
 k 
 
 . f 
 
 
11 
 hi: 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 1. ■ i'hi! 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 <. 
 
 s 
 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 ,f,.| 
 
 
 200 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 (Mitered the little cottage on the bank, undressed 
 ('<)mi)letely, and put on an oilskin suit, covering 
 the head, as well as the body. Even this dress 
 will not keep out the wot, owing to the immense 
 force with which it falls, and is blown in clouds 
 of spray against you. 
 
 A flight of wooden stairs lead down to the 
 lodge of stone, level with the entrance behind 
 the curtain of water. The footing is good for 
 some little distance ; but, at the edge of the 
 Fall, the gusts of wind and spray are suffi- 
 ciently strong to take away the breath. To 
 face them is quite impossible : the only plan is 
 to stoop down, and back in. The first attempt 
 in our case was not successful. We were obliged 
 to return ; but afterwards succeeded in reaching 
 Termination Rock, S.'iO feet behind the Fall. 
 All difficulty ceases as soon as you are fairly 
 between the rock and the falling water. You 
 can, then, stand upright. AVithout the rope to 
 hold on by, it would scarcely be possible to 
 enter ; and even with its assistance, I can as- 
 sure the reader, it seems sufficiently frightful. 
 llcsj)iration is rather painfully affected. You 
 are drenched to the skin, made temporarily 
 deaf, and, on your return, are entitled, on pay- 
 ment of a dollar, to a diploma ; with a few 
 doggrel vc-ses upon it, certifying that you have 
 succeeded in reaching Termination Rock. 
 
 k 
 
CANADA. 
 
 207 
 
 dressed 
 overing 
 is dress 
 nnicnse 
 1 clouds 
 
 to the 
 behind 
 ood for 
 of the 
 •e suffi- 
 h. To 
 plan is 
 ittcmpt 
 obliged 
 caching 
 Fall, 
 fairly 
 You 
 rope to 
 jle to 
 
 B 
 
 can as- 
 ghtful. 
 You 
 Drarily 
 
 a few 
 have 
 
 Descending again to the ferry, we embarked 
 in the little boat, which here crosses the stream 
 for the American shore. This passage is per- 
 fectly safe — although at all times the boat is 
 whirled about, rather frightfidly by the eddies. 
 A few yards nearer the Great Fall, the boat 
 would be swamped in an instant ; and a little 
 lower down, the stream contracts, rushing fear- 
 fully and upheaved, through the gorge. The 
 comparatively smooth water found at this spot 
 is one of the most singular j^henomena about it, 
 and is accounted for in various ways. The 
 most generally received opinion is this — that 
 the immense weight of water tumbling over the 
 Fall, drives the water down into a hole formed 
 by this constant action ; the water then gradu- 
 ally rises at an angle from this, to the surface, 
 and, meeting with a check from the narrowing 
 banks of the stream, sends back a compara- 
 tively smooth body of water towards the Great 
 Fall. Even here, a foot or two below the sur- 
 face, there is a downward current of frightful 
 velocity : it is simply at the surface that the 
 water is smooth. You land at a ridge of rocks 
 at the foot of the American Fall, and walk 
 through clouds of spray, up a wooden staircase, 
 to the level ground above. Two or three hun- 
 dred yards from the brink stands the manufac- 
 turing village of Manchester — pretty, and, at 
 
 
 ';n:i 
 
 I 
 
 
 If? 
 
Ik 
 
 p 
 
 
 11 li 1)111 llilii^l 
 
 iillliii 
 
 ^ i 
 
 ;i:.i Ti? iilliilii:' 
 
 '4\ 
 
 ii ! 
 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 Mm 
 
 M 
 
 'mm 
 
 ml 
 
 ^.iiiii'fi; 
 4niliij||i!i: 
 
 Miiliii': 
 
 tiwm 
 
 208 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 the same time, practical; for the Americans 
 have not merely recognised the beauty and won- 
 ders of the spot, but have also considered that it 
 would be a pity to allow so good a water privi- 
 lege to be neglected. Perhaps they are right. 
 A poet and a dreamer may long to wander 
 around this stupendous work of nature in soli- 
 tary and undisturbed musing. The sound of 
 the wheel, jars on his excited senses ; the plain, 
 utilitarian factory, is an unsightly scar; but, 
 were the world peopled alone with poets and 
 dreamers, we should be, in the nineteenth cen- 
 tury, as we were in the ninth. 
 
 To describe the form of the Falls is, at the 
 present moment, almost needless. Let the 
 reader, however, stand with me, on the green 
 turf, a little below the Falls, on the American 
 shore ; on the left, the straight American Fall 
 rushes tumultuously over the ledge, 200 yards in 
 width, and 150 feet high; divided from this, by 
 a few yards of rock, is the second silvery stream 
 of water, scarcely seen or heeded by the side of 
 its monstrous neighbours ; beyond is " Goat 
 Island," thickly covered with timber and shrubs, 
 intersected, in every direction, by winding 
 paths ; passing this, and stretching over in horse- 
 shoe shape, to the Canada side, is the British 
 Fall. This Fall is 600 yards wide. At the 
 edge of this Fall the water passes through and 
 
a AN AD A. 
 
 209 
 
 mericans 
 md won- 
 jd that it 
 er prlvi- 
 ,re right, 
 wander 
 3 in soli- 
 sound of 
 he plain, 
 lar; but, 
 oets and 
 )nth cen- 
 
 s, at the 
 Let the 
 he green 
 merican 
 can Fall 
 yards in 
 this, by 
 stream 
 side of 
 " Goat 
 shrubs, 
 vinding 
 ti horse- 
 British 
 At the 
 gli and 
 
 over a rocky bed, and is deficient in volume ; 
 but towards the centre of the Shoe, it rolls its 
 dark-green stream, slowly and massively over 
 tlio ridge, in grandeur indescribable. Here, the 
 waters meet in direful strife : the eye cannot 
 penetrate the depth. All is chaos — dread, mys- 
 terious, awful — and yet how beautiful. The 
 sunbeams shine over its surface ; the iris plays 
 with the glittering spray, strong in its impalpa- 
 bility ; but, were twenty line of battle-ships, in 
 all their solid grandeur, to roll at once over the 
 brink, they would be crushed into dust and 
 powder in one second, by the contending power 
 around them. 
 
 No spectacle can be more sublime than the 
 Great Fall, with the rapids above it. The latter, 
 come sweeping down in a curved line of glitter- 
 ing foam, a mile in width. For about three 
 miles above the Fall, no boat can live ; nothing 
 can cross the stream — destruction would be in- 
 evitable. 
 
 Wlien it is considered, that the whole water 
 of the huge American Lakes (except Ontario), 
 and fully one-half of the whole North American 
 Continent, pours over this spot, it needs no 
 effort of imagination, to picture what it must be ; 
 its grandeur and sublimity are utterly beyond 
 description ; live, in the neighbourhood, for 
 weeks and months, and day by day it grows 
 
 hm 
 
 o 
 
 
210 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 m 
 
 
 M 
 
 :!t 
 
 11:^ 
 
 upon you; its power and its majesty, enter slowly 
 into the mind, but, when once grasped, can 
 nc^ver be forgotten. 
 
 The country, immediately about the Falls, is 
 pretty. Near them, on the Canada side, a large 
 city, to be called the ** Oity of the Falls," was 
 laid out on paper, but it never got beyond that, 
 ('attle graze, quietly in its streets ; corn waves 
 in its squares. The village of Drummondvillo 
 atlvanced rapidly while large bodies of troops 
 wore quarter'^io' there. Rural little cottages 
 s})rung up everywhere : now, they are fast drop- 
 ping into a state of decay. The soil is light and 
 sandy ; the climate mild, for Canada. The inse- 
 curity of property, in case of war with the 
 United States in this frontier district, is said to 
 have prevented its progress. But the Ameri- 
 cans, on the other side, who are equally exposed, 
 show no such timidity : there, all is advancing 
 rapidly. The contrast, indeed, between the 
 sluggish inaction and langour of the Canadians, 
 everywhere, and the stirring industry of their 
 neighbours, often less favoured in soil and cli- 
 mate, is sad. To account for it is not easy : it 
 cannot be, that taxes weigh the Canadiansdown ; 
 for they pay none, or next to none ; neither can 
 Government be responsible for it ; for entire free- 
 dom prevails. Good roads and canals have been 
 made, and large sums are yearly expended in 
 
 
 rV. 
 
 [.■<.n fc -TftH ii rr' . WffHT ' -i^"»ijS ' r -^ .'' ! -v s i- 
 
CANADA. 
 
 211 
 
 r slowly 
 od, can 
 
 Falls, is 
 
 a large 
 
 8," was 
 
 nd that. 
 
 n waves 
 
 ondville 
 
 f troops 
 
 3ottages 
 
 st drop- 
 
 ght and 
 
 lie inse- 
 
 i^ith the 
 
 said to 
 
 Ameri- 
 
 xposed, 
 
 vancing 
 
 en the 
 
 adians, 
 
 3f their 
 
 nd cli- 
 
 isy : it 
 
 down ; 
 
 ler can 
 
 re free- 
 
 e been 
 
 ded in 
 
 tlie colony by the largo body ol troops quar- 
 tered there. No problem was ever more diffi- 
 cult of solution, to mo. After a long residence, 
 I was as far from understanding it as ever. One 
 cause, undoubtedly, is this-*a good deal of land 
 is in the hands of people, wlio have insufficient 
 capital to work it properly, by the labour of 
 others, and are too proud to labour on it them- 
 selves ; while in some places the large blocks of 
 land, called " Clergy Reserves," have hitherto 
 prevented the development of the colony ; still, 
 these causes are partial, and quite insufficient to 
 account for the general depression. This fine 
 upper province exports nothing but a little 
 lumber, and a few thousand barrels of flour, and 
 its harbours are nearly empty ; while those on 
 the American side of the lakes, are crowded with 
 sailing craft, and steamers. 
 
 Four miles below the Fall, is a circular basin, 
 hollowed out by the stream, called the *' Wliirl- 
 pool." The walk to it along the margin of the 
 gorge, through which the river runs, is lovely. 
 Evergreen shrubs, cedars, and pines, overhang 
 the banks, and open, oak-covered plains, spread 
 around you. The glittering humming-bird, the 
 gay butterfly, and myriads of noisy insects, 
 make this warm, sunshiny, genial country, their 
 home — mingling their incessant, twittering, chir- 
 ruping noise with the loud rush of the heaving, 
 
 o 2 
 
 l imml 
 
 i.l 
 
 ■(•'; 
 
 r 
 
 
 ! !■ 
 
 f 
 
 "« 
 
 
2\2 
 
 (CANADA. 
 
 'If,;.";' 
 
 tumbling wntoi'H bolow. Sit down on the <Mlp^o 
 of tlio pool, and watcli the watcra eddying 
 round. Every flouting tliinj^wliicli finds ^tHv^ iiy 
 into the whirlpool rcinii ins there for many days. 
 Human bodies have been watched turning 
 slowly romid in ^^radually increasing circles for 
 numy days — until at last they have disappeared. 
 Large (pumtities of drift wood are always float- 
 ing in it: indeed, almost everything carried 
 down by the falls and rapids finds its way 
 hitlier. The water runs out nearly at right 
 angles to the spot at which it enters. Its depth 
 is supposed to be great ; but no lead-line would 
 sink in it. Awe, and a sickening sense of the 
 grave, steals upon the mind while contemplating 
 it. How many crushed and mangled bodies — 
 liow much treasure are C(mcealed in its dreary 
 de})th. Many a deserter, in a suicidal attempt 
 to swim across the stream above, has been 
 brought down here. At one time no less than 
 seven corpses of these deluded men were seen at 
 once, twirling round and round in this spot. 
 About half-way between the Falls and the whirl- 
 pool, is the light suspension bridge, lately 
 erected ; and above the Falls, on the road to 
 Chipi)ewa, arc some hot springs. The land in 
 this district is chiefly unenclosed meadows : 
 orcliards, well stocked with fruit trees, also 
 abound ; and the useful, cheap, but ugly r.nake 
 
CANADA. 
 
 !^i;i 
 
 t])0 (hI^o 
 
 .8 itH M iiy 
 ,ny days, 
 turning 
 Ircles for 
 ppottrod. 
 lys float- 
 <; carried 
 its way 
 at riglit 
 [ts deptli 
 10 would 
 10 of the 
 inpluting 
 bodies — 
 8 dreary 
 attempt 
 las boon 
 ess than 
 seen at 
 lis spot, 
 10 whirl- 
 lately 
 road to 
 land in 
 3adows : 
 es, also 
 y riiako 
 
 '} 
 
 fencoH, give place to niorr HubHtantial posts and 
 rails. 'i^lu5 traveller will he reminded of the 
 light soil and eonnuoiis of 'I'onhridge Wells. 
 Wo crossed the stream again to Manchester, 
 on our way to Huffalo. Curiosity shops, and 
 j)laco8 where *' Memorandums" of the Falls aro 
 sold (as a man persisted in calling them,) as 
 well as shops for the sale of aboriginal industry, 
 in the shaj)e of Moccasins, poucrhes and retic^dc^s 
 of untanned leather, resplendent with beads, 
 abound hero. The mode of conveyance to 
 Ihdfalo was by railroad, distan(!e about twenty- 
 one miles. The line, is merely a slip of iron 
 nailed along a stout wooden rail, and was in 
 many places broken and uneven. It would bo 
 perfectly unable to bear the weight and friction 
 of an English locomotive, but answers tolerably 
 well, where neither the speed nor weight of the 
 engines or carriages is great ; at any rate it is 
 an improvement on the heavy ** stage," plunging 
 at every yard into a mud hole. A slightly open 
 fence alone separated it for a considerable dis- 
 tance from the high road : there was nothing 
 else. 
 
 The railways in this country are often carried 
 through the main streets of the towns and 
 cities, regardless of passengers, or frightened 
 horses: with no fence whatever to prevent other 
 vehicles from crossing the line. This careless- 
 
 III 
 
 
 hi 
 
 1 ;■ 
 
 " 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 

 j; ;;«';■ -^i-.-f^'"-' 
 
 I ; 
 
 1 -■ 
 
 t 1' 
 
 
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 214 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 
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 ^i.'li,f 
 
 
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 m 
 
 ■11 
 
 ^':^il 
 
 *', 
 
 
 ^1, 
 
 noss of human life is quite common tliougliout 
 the whole country. Time, labour and cost are 
 here more regarded than possible loss of life. 
 The country through which we passed is flat 
 and uninteresting. Buffalo itself, is a red 
 staring new looking town, with an excellent 
 commercial position at the lower end of Lake 
 Erie. The harbour is always full of high pres- 
 sure puffing steam boats. Nearly all the trade 
 of the Upper Western district passes through 
 this place, and is sent on by the Erie canal 
 and the railroad to Albany or Troy, and thence 
 to New York. It is remarkable solely for its 
 very rapid rise into importance, twenty years 
 having sufficed to raise an insignificant village 
 into a town of 30,000 inhabitants. An ignor- 
 ance of American manners, here led us to sup- 
 pose that a person at the table was impertinent. 
 Arriving late, we dined by ourselves at the same 
 table, and at the same time, with those who were 
 taking their usual six o'clock tea. Fifty people 
 were perhaps at the table, and one of them 
 sent his plate for some beef steak. Captain 
 
 R was indignant at this, as our dinner was 
 
 undoubtedly private, but the plate was supplied, 
 and nothing said ; the second time, however, 
 that the same person sent it, an intimation was 
 given that ours was a private party, whereupon 
 the American immediately apologized, and 
 
CANADA. 
 
 215 
 
 lioughout 
 
 i cost are 
 
 S8 of life. 
 
 )ed is flat 
 
 is a red 
 
 excellent 
 
 of Lake 
 
 igh pres- 
 
 the trade 
 
 through 
 
 'ie canal 
 
 d thence 
 
 y for its 
 
 ty years 
 
 it village 
 
 Q ignor- 
 
 s to sup- 
 
 ertinent. 
 
 the same 
 
 ho were 
 
 Y people 
 
 of them 
 
 Captain 
 
 ner was 
 
 upplied, 
 
 owever, 
 
 ion was 
 
 Greupon 
 
 d, and 
 
 nothing more passed. At hotels, in the western 
 country, everything served at the public table 
 is considered to be there for all who require it. 
 A steamboat took me to Port Rowan, where I 
 intended to remain a few days. This boat 
 being high pressure, panted and puffed through 
 the water, making sufficient noise to prevent all 
 sleep. One peculiarity of these boats, where 
 the fuel for the fire is wood, is the great quantity 
 of sparks and flakes of fire constantly thrown 
 over the boat in all directions. The fiery 
 shower gleaming in the air at night, and re- 
 flected by the water, is a pretty sight, but des- 
 tructive to ones clothes, unless care be taken to 
 knock off the sparks as they fall. The shore of 
 the lake is very low, and the water throughout 
 shallow, when compared with the great lakes 
 above it, or Lake Ontario below. The depth 
 of water varies, however — not only, during 
 successive years, but at different periods of the 
 same year. It decreases gradually during 
 the winter and early spring months, and in- 
 creases on the melting of the snow and ice dur- 
 ing the hot summer. The decrease of the water 
 is clearly shown by the subsidence of the ice on 
 the lake shores. I noticed this particularly on 
 the bay of Quints, which is every winter frozen 
 over completely, for several months. The fall 
 there was at least three or foui* feet. This is 
 
 K. 
 
216 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 
 lii:iH't;i:||i 
 
 4[| , i;ii I' H 'I 
 
 ;fti:;:-:::ii 
 
 iiiti 
 
 partly the cause of the huge rents in the ice, 
 which are so dangerous to those who drive over 
 the frozen surface of the lake, both at night and 
 iu a snow storm. Horses are constantly en- 
 gulphed in these fissures; and occasionally, 
 though not frequently, the occupants of the 
 sledge, share the same fate. The ice, even in 
 the most severe Canadian winter, never extends 
 over the whole surface of the large lakes. Eight 
 or ton miles from the shore is usually the ex- 
 treme limit ; but all the lesser bays and inlets 
 are completely frozen over, and traversed in every 
 direction by sledges and ice-boats. The sense 
 of insecurity, in sitting behind a pair of horses 
 trotting at the rate of tenor twelve miles an hour, 
 over an apparently insecure support, is rather 
 painful at first, but soon vanishes. At Port 
 Rowan a long spit of low land, full of swampy 
 marshes, stretches far out in the Lake. Between 
 this and the main land, there is a channel of suf- 
 ficient depth to admit a vessel of light draft of 
 water to pass, but it is daily filling up and will 
 soon be quite impassable. Port Rowan is a 
 wretched little collection of half ruinous log 
 houses, woe-begone to a degree. The people at 
 the post office, whither I went to inquire for 
 my friend, directed me to walk about three 
 miles into the "Concessions," to a farm-house, 
 \rherc he was then residing. Here I found him, 
 
the ice, 
 
 Lve over 
 
 gilt and 
 
 titly en- 
 
 lionally, 
 
 I of the 
 
 even in 
 
 extends 
 
 . Eight 
 
 the ex- 
 
 d inlets 
 
 in every 
 
 e sense 
 
 f horses 
 
 m hour, 
 
 rather 
 
 Port 
 
 wampy 
 
 etween 
 
 ofsuf- 
 
 raft of 
 
 id will 
 
 n is a 
 
 us log 
 
 )ple at 
 
 •e for 
 
 three 
 
 louse. 
 
 I 
 
 iim, 
 
 *^< 
 
 .■^ 
 
 ."«,■ 
 
 : 
 
 \ 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 217 
 
 just returned, laden with wild fowl from the 
 marshes, which abound in this district. Inter- 
 mittent fever and " shaking" ague is here ex- 
 tremely general ; few escape an attack in the 
 second or third year of residence. Although not 
 dangerous, this is a dreadful complaint; and 
 clings to the enfeebled constitution with horrible 
 tenacity. Year after year often passes before it 
 is finally expelled by '* Quinine." " Down 
 with the shakes" is the form of expression used 
 to denote the bad days of the disease. Ague 
 more or less prevails throughout Canada, but in 
 many parts it is very unfrequent. Where the 
 land lies low, and marshy spots abound, there 
 is its home. To the hard-working farm labourer 
 its lengthened attacks are a great trial; for 
 it entirely prostrates all strength, both of mind 
 and body. Miserable, indeed, is the pale, en- 
 feebled attenuated sufferer, when the '' Shakes" 
 are upon him. Let the settler weigh well 
 before choosing his location, whether or not, the 
 nature of the country is such as to induce this 
 disease. >51iould it be so, let him on no account 
 be swayed by assurances from local residents, 
 that the complaint is unknown. The reason of 
 this is obvious, as the value of land and other 
 property is considerably affected by the pre- 
 sence or absence of this disease. 
 
 The day after my arrival we went into the 
 
 II 
 
 ill 
 
 m 
 
1 / 
 
 'iM 
 
 iiilfi 
 
 , 
 
 i 
 
 ':Mi!; 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 ;• 
 
 
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 1 
 
 ■ il 
 
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 - « 
 
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 218 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 woods to look for deer, but tlie mosquitoes were so 
 incessantly troublesome, that our clianco of sport 
 was entirely destroyed. To keep quiet, even for 
 a moment, was impossible. The fiery sun had 
 parched the ground, and the dead twigs, leaves, 
 and shrivelled grass, crackled under the feet. 
 Although, therefore, wo saw several deer, wo 
 were unable to approach near enough for a shot. 
 Great numbers of deer had been killed by the 
 excessive severity of the previous winter ; for 
 their small feet and thin legs break through the 
 slight crisp frozen surface of the snow, and sink 
 deep below it. Under these circumstances they 
 soon knock up ; are, without difficulty, tracked 
 on foot, and become an easy prey to the per- 
 severing hunter, both white and aboriginal. 
 Large " pine barrens" covered with trees, whose 
 straight naked trunks rose to a height utterly 
 unknown in England, abound in this district ; 
 and as these trees do not admit of any under- 
 growth, the eye rests on all sides, on bare 
 straight spars with tufted crowns : casting a 
 sombre and deep gloom below. My spirits 
 were always much depressed by a few hours 
 passed in a Canadian pine forest. There is no 
 variety, no joyousness, in this phase of nature; 
 all is solemn, sad-looking, and still. 
 
 In other places the timber consisted of maple, 
 black walnut, butter-nut, and oak. Wooden 
 
CANADA. 
 
 219 
 
 swore so 
 ! of sport 
 oven for 
 siui had 
 I, leaves, 
 the feet, 
 deer, wo 
 )r a shot. 
 I by the 
 iter; for 
 ough the 
 and sink 
 ices they 
 , tracked 
 the per- 
 )original. 
 38, whose 
 utterly 
 district ; 
 y under- 
 on bare 
 asting a 
 y spirits 
 iw hours 
 ere is no 
 f nature; 
 
 if maple, 
 Wooden 
 
 troughs, placed under the pierced maple trees, 
 show that the lucrative trade of sugar making is 
 in proper season much attended to. The trees 
 were not yielding sap, as the summer was too 
 much advanced. 
 
 The first sap usually flows when the frost 
 breaks up, and increases in strength and thick- 
 ness as it flows, being for the first few days 
 colourless, and almost without taste, and de- 
 generating at last into a thick inferior stuff", 
 hardly eatable. The importance of this trade 
 to the Canadas, may be estimated from the fol- 
 lowing figures. In 1848 as much as 4,000,000 
 pounds of this sugar were made in Canada West ; 
 and in Lower Canada the quantity was 2,250,000 
 pounds. The sugar makers often live entirely 
 during the proper season in the forests abound- 
 ing with maple trees; where they erect a shanty, 
 and car 'y with them a proper supply of food, and 
 the few lots and pans necessary for their trade. 
 The mode of tapping the trees is simple. A 
 hole is bored through the bark of the tree ; into 
 which a spout or funnel is placed, through 
 which the sap flows; generally very slowly, but 
 sometimes in a stream. Six gallons of the sap 
 are usually required to make one pound of 
 sugar. The flavour of the sugar is coarse, but 
 very sweet. 
 
 A good deal of ground was also planted with 
 
 V, 
 
 [i 
 
i 
 
 ^■iu..m 
 
 ld» ! 
 
 
 Ui\B, 
 
 220 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 Indian corn, which tlirives well hero ; whereas, 
 on the shores of Lake Ontario, it scarcely ever 
 ripens. 
 
 The two or three succeeding days, were de- 
 voted to shooting in the marshes ; but I shall 
 describe this sport, hereafter. 
 
 On Sunday, all the neighbourhood either rode 
 or drove to " meeting." The men were generally 
 clothed in home-spun Canadian cloth, similar to 
 the grey frieze of Ireland. The ladies, affected 
 more fashion, but would have been thought sad 
 caricatures, in the " Champs Elysdes," or the 
 " Boulevard des Italiens." The vehicles, were 
 of various descriptions ; but the Canadian wag- 
 gon seemed to me more in keeping, with the 
 dress and appearance of the people, than the 
 more ambitious phaeton or gig. It does not ap- 
 pear to be the fashion, to clean these latter vehi- 
 cles ; for they are brought out, covered with the 
 dust and mud, of repeated journeys. 
 
 All the ladies whoso acquaintance I had the 
 honour of making, were more than a little 
 '' devote." The morning sermon was highly 
 spiced, ultra Calvinistic ; and, as it condemned 
 to eternal miser}', all, who did not agree vdth the 
 preacher and his flock, it was keenly relished. 
 A very slight knowledge of the prevailing tone 
 of thought on religious matters in this colony, is 
 sufficient to convince a traveller, that clergymen 
 
 : 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 ;P' 1 
 
 '•>^.,.-:i.l:. 
 
 
CANADA. 
 
 221 
 
 ^liereas, 
 )ly ever 
 
 '■ere de- 
 1 1 shall 
 
 lier rode 
 
 enerally 
 
 milar to 
 
 affected 
 
 iglit sad 
 
 ' or the 
 
 08, were 
 
 an wag- 
 
 itli the 
 
 han the 
 
 not ap- 
 
 er velii- 
 
 ith the 
 
 lad the 
 la little 
 
 highly 
 Idemned 
 
 ith the 
 [elished. 
 
 [g tone 
 [lony, is 
 
 •gynien 
 
 of sound mind and liberal education, are sadly 
 wanted, to correct the insane fanaticism and 
 extravagance of the self-sufficient, but almost 
 necessarily ignorant, dwellers in these back- 
 woods. Yet, strange to say, where such men 
 are found in this country, it is rare that they 
 possess much influence over those who live 
 around them. Their churches are deserted ; 
 while the chapel, or camp meeting, attract 
 crowded audiences. Religion is the exciting 
 amusement of these remote districts ; and sup- 
 plies the place of the ball, the concert, or the 
 theatre. The Liturgy of the Church of England 
 is too tame : its language too pure. The extem- 
 poraneous effusions of an eye-rolling, arm- 
 extending ranter, gradually lashing both him- 
 self and his congregation by loud denunciations, 
 and fearful pictures of torture and damnation, 
 into a perfect frenzy, is the popular preacher of 
 the backwoods. 
 
 A good deal of property in this district is in 
 the hands of settlers from the United States ; 
 and a sturdy independence of mind, not much 
 leavened with loyalty, prevails. I do not think 
 tliey could be trusted, to fight very hard for the 
 blessing of being governed by a Queen and 
 Legislature, 5,000 miles away. My impression 
 of the people and the country in this part of the 
 Province, was far from favourable. 
 
222 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 ! I 
 
 m : ! 
 
 ^1 I 
 
 ii '' 
 
 From Port Rowan a waggon conveyed me to 
 8imcoo. The dust was horrible, the sun scorch- 
 ing ; and the vehicle had no springs, either iron, 
 or wood. Fortunately, the road traversed fine 
 oak plains, and was, therefore, good. The light, 
 sandy soil of these plains, produces good crops; 
 and the woods were full of wild flowers — many 
 very beautiful. The country about Victoria, six 
 miles from Simcoe, is well settled. Simcoe 
 itself, may be passed, without a word. 
 
 The next day, I travelled by the mail to 
 Brandtford, (twenty-five miles.) The same pair 
 of horses did the whole journey ; and my only 
 fellow-passenger was a lady, who pestered me 
 terribly with long tirades about temperance — 
 varied by invitations to join her in singing 
 praises to the Lord. At length— tired, I sup- 
 pose, by my unsociability — she solaced herself 
 with a cigar. My astonishment may be ima- 
 gined. 
 
 The town of Brantdford is built on rising 
 ground, overlooking the Grand river, and the 
 plain it waters : the river is a most beautiful 
 one. A settlement of half-civilized Mohawk In- 
 dians, with a resident missionary clergyman, 
 are domiciled here ; but are not considered in- 
 dustrious, or sober. Nominally, they are Chris- 
 tians ; though, from what I could learn, it is 
 more profession, than faith, or knowledge of the 
 subject. 
 
 !fi!M!: 
 
 m. 
 
CANADA. 
 
 223 
 
 cd me to 
 n Bcorcli- 
 her iron, 
 irsed fine 
 ?he light, 
 od crops; 
 •s — many 
 jtoria, six 
 Simcoe 
 
 mail to 
 
 ame pair 
 
 my only 
 
 itered me 
 
 erance — 
 
 singing 
 
 , I sup- 
 id herself 
 
 be ima- 
 
 m rising 
 and the 
 
 Ibeautifiil 
 lawk In- 
 
 [rgyman, 
 Lered in- 
 •e Chris- 
 
 irn, it is 
 re of the 
 
 This district, and through Oxford to London, 
 is, perhaps, the best agricultural part of Canada, 
 and is peculiarly well inhabited by settlers from 
 the old country. Wliero the title to land is un- 
 impeachable, the price is high. From this place 
 to Hamilton, is about twenty-five miles. The 
 road is, for some miles, execrable ; but the re- 
 mainder is macadamized, and an unspeakable 
 luxury. I was much charmed by a little place 
 called Andover. From hence to Hamilton, the 
 road descends a high ridge called *' The Moun- 
 tain," through woods of thick foliage, affording 
 pretty peeps of the level country below. 
 
 At Hamilton the heat was truly terrific ; and 
 as I have, during the last few pages, rather fre- 
 quently alluded to this inconvenience, take this 
 opportunity of stating, that I have rarely (even 
 in a dead calm, with an almost vertical sun, near 
 the Equator) suffered more from this cause, 
 than 1 did for a month or two in a Canadian 
 summer. The town of Hamilton improved 
 rapidly at first, and it boasts the residence of 
 Sir Allan Mac Nab, the Canadian loyalist 
 loader, about whom, by-the-bye, this story is 
 told : that seeing in the visiting book at 
 Government House, that a well known Scotch 
 chief of the same name had inscribed himself 
 there as '' The Mc Nab," Sir Allan wrote his 
 name underneath as " the other Islo, Nab." 
 
ii'ji 
 
 2-24 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 In the overling T went totlio Tlioatre, and, as 
 I very reasonably anticipated, tlie Tragedy 
 was so truly comical, that I enjoyed it greatly. 
 It was as good, in its way, as an Adelphi bur- 
 lesque. 
 
 My companions, who had left me at Port 
 Rowan, to continue their journey farther west 
 through the London district, here joined me, 
 and we returned together to Kingston. 
 
 %k 
 
 €OQsa 
 
 ■BTiSijii ' i wm i iv ' ^'S^i) 
 
CANADA. 
 
 225 
 
 n, and, as 
 Tragedy 
 ; greatly. 
 Iphi bur- 
 
 at Port 
 lier west 
 ined me, 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 BAY OF QUINTE. — life in Canada. — 
 
 SOCIETY. — SCENEUY. — CLIMATE. 
 
 T do not intend here, to doacribe the life of a 
 hard-working Canadian farmer; for the 
 circumstances under which I passed nearly a 
 year, on the shores of the Bay of Quints, were, 
 in many respects, peculiar ; but I hope, never- 
 theless, that this chapter will give the reader 
 some general idea of Canadian life. Almost 
 the whole of this district is the property of an 
 Irish nobleman, whose local interests are looked 
 after, by a resident agent. But along the bay 
 shore, there are some few farms, whicli are the 
 property of different individuals ; and have, 
 from the cause alluded to above, fallen into the 
 hands of well-bred settlers from the old coun- 
 try — ^who, emigrating at a mature period of life, 
 brought with them a refinement of manners 
 and tastes, which formed a striking contrast to 
 the rough mode of life of most of their neigh- 
 bours. Unfortunately, they were scarcely the 
 class of persons to succeed well in a country like 
 
i 
 
 III 
 
 W' 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 1- 
 
 \m 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 226 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 this ; and, since I left Cunacltt, I have roceivetl 
 rather bad accounts of those amongst whom 1 
 passed so many gay and agreeable months. Our 
 life was a continued series of amusements. 
 During the sununer, the day was spent in H.sh- 
 ing or shooting; and the sleighing club and 
 billiards (wo had a private table), v/ith a ru])ber 
 of whist in the evening, killed most pleasantly 
 the dreary months of winter, when all nature is 
 torpid; when no bird hovers in the air — no 
 beast is seen in the fields ; but all around is a 
 dismal "vaste, of snow and ice. Fanning, as may 
 be iuip-gined, sped ill under such treatment ; for 
 nothing but the most constant, undivided atten- 
 tion, will render the Canadian soil productive, 
 or agricidtural operations, remunerative. To 
 me — a mere passing stranger, with no pecu- 
 niary interests involved — this sort of gaiety was, 
 of course, agreeable and harmless; but for those 
 who emigrated to this district, with a view to 
 improving their pecuniary position, or at Kast 
 husbanding carefully the little property still left 
 to them, it was undoubtedly an act of folly, to 
 endeavour to sustain, in such a country as Ca- 
 nada, the life of pleasui'e to which most of them 
 had been accustomed at home. Still, only 
 those who have been put to the test, know how 
 difficult a thing it is to abandon at once deeply- 
 rootedhabitsandfoelings: to work instead of play. 
 
 I 
 
CANADA. 
 
 227 
 
 received 
 whom I 
 tliH. Our 
 sonientH. 
 t in fi«li- 
 tlub and 
 a rubber 
 Icasantly 
 nature is 
 air — no 
 und is a 
 r, aa may 
 iicnt ; for 
 ed atten- 
 oductive, 
 ive. To 
 no pecu- 
 ety was, 
 for those 
 view to 
 r at Kast 
 f still left 
 folly, to 
 y as Ca- 
 t of them 
 ill, only 
 now how 
 e deeply- 
 d of play. 
 
 J 
 
 Our circle was ahnost always increased by 
 some of the officers quartered at Kingston, and 
 those of the Government employ«5s, who were 
 either young enough to enjoy, or could find time 
 for, field sports. The lake offered fishing at 
 all seasons. When not frozen over, inexhaus- 
 tible were the stores of bass, herrings, pike, and 
 salmon ; and even when the surface of the bay 
 was fast bound in ice, two feet thick, the eager 
 and weather-defying sportsman might erect his 
 little shelter of reeds, or a blanket, drill a hole 
 through the ice, drop his lino into the water, 
 and be sure to have both his suff'erings and his 
 perseverance rewarded. Shooting lasts but four 
 months in tlie year. The game consists of 
 partridges (red-legged), woodcocks, snipe — in 
 some places, turkeys; large flocks of golden 
 plover (a bird by no means to be despised), 
 and, perhaps, the best wild-fowl shooting in the 
 world ; for which latter sport, no district of 
 North America is superior to this part of the 
 shores of Luki? Ontario. The whole of the large 
 Peninsula, called Prince Edward's District, 
 which here juts out into the lake, abounds in 
 marshy rice beds and small lakes, plentifully 
 supplied with wild fowl. 
 
 Bear in mind, too, ye shivering pea-coated 
 
 sportsmen in England, that here this sport is at 
 
 its prime during the warm, genial months of 
 
 p 2 
 
228 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 B LI. 
 
 ; V 
 
 August and September. Then it is, that you 
 gently glide in a boat down the creeks, per- 
 meating the marshes ; or paddle your way 
 through the waving rice beds, out of which 
 myriads of birds rise heavily on the wing, at 
 your approach. This sport has, in a lesser de- 
 gree, the excitement of d» i*-stalking ; it is the 
 sportsman, and not his dog, who finds the game ; 
 and so keenly sensible of approaching danger 
 are the birds, that a novice stands little chance 
 of getting within shot. 
 
 Every kind of stratagem is practised, and 
 necessary: the boat is not painted, and is usu- 
 ally covered with whatever vegetation is around 
 it ; which is either suffered to trail in the water, 
 or is stuck upright in the bow, and round the 
 gunwale ; and the costume of the sportsman is 
 also studiously disguised by the same means. 
 All noise must be carefully avoided. The boat 
 is always paddled — never pulled. If the shooter 
 paddle himself, the paddle is attached, by a lan- 
 yard, to the button of his shooting-jacket, in 
 order that it may be let go, at once, without 
 loss. The gun lies ready cocked on a thwart, 
 before him. A practised hand may bag thirty 
 or forty couple of wild fowl in a day ; and I 
 have known more than this accomplished by 
 men who pursue this sport for profit. Quite 
 early in the morning, and a little before sunset. 
 
that you 
 eks, per- * 
 our way 
 of which 
 wing, at 
 esser de- 
 it is the 
 be game ; 
 r danger 
 ie chance 
 
 sed, and 
 
 id is usu- 
 
 is around 
 
 le water, 
 
 ound the 
 
 tsman is 
 
 means. 
 
 The boat 
 
 shooter 
 
 Dy a Ian- 
 
 cket, in 
 
 without 
 
 thwart, 
 
 thirty 
 
 ; and I 
 
 hed by 
 
 Quite 
 
 sunset. 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 229 
 
 g 
 
 are the most productive j)arts of the day. At 
 those times the birds are continually on the 
 wing, flying from one part of the feeding ground 
 to another. A good shot will then cover the 
 ground around him with slain, without once 
 changing his position. The only drawback to 
 this sport is the difficulty of getting a good dog. 
 A water spaniel is invaluable ; and none are to 
 be found worth anything in Canada. The only 
 thorough-bred dogs we had, were a couple of 
 red Irish setters ; and one of these was wild, and 
 tlie other almost deaf. Many a time have I 
 waded up to the waist through a slimy lagoon 
 (wliose horribly offensive mud bottom had not 
 been stirred probably for centuries) in search of 
 game : which, had I possessed a good dog, would 
 have been unnecessary. The foul nature of 
 tliese lagoons may be conceived when I state, 
 that no process known to our washerwoman 
 ever succeeded in cleaning the garments en- 
 trusted to her care. Ever after, they were un- 
 wearable. Our party usually consisted of five 
 or six ; and great was the consumption of cold 
 puncli (which we carried ready-made in Macin- 
 tosh bags), and provender of all kinds. Whiskey 
 is the universal beverage, and may be bought 
 for eighteenpence or two shillings the gallon ; 
 and, at this price, it is really very good : not so 
 fiery as Irish or Scotch whiskey, but very 
 
 
■!• :-iii''' 
 
 ill!'' » :■. 
 
 : 
 
 til; 
 
 230 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 palateable stuff. Wine is so dear and bad, that 
 very little is drank of it anywiiere. The con- 
 sumption of whiskey during the six months of 
 winter, in the house of a bachelor friend of mine 
 (three men living together), was more than 120 
 gallons ; and this without anything approaching 
 insobriety. The climate in the winter is so 
 cold, that amazing quantities of spirits are drank 
 with impunity ; but, at the same time, it must 
 be confessed that a tendency to habits of intem- 
 perance is a prevalent vice throughout the 
 province of Canada. Rapid is the descent of 
 the disappointed gentleman emigran*- -particu- 
 larly if unmarried. Whiskey drov : ire for 
 the time ; but temporary happiness is pur- 
 chased, at the price of ruined health, and early 
 death. 
 
 The next best sport is woodcock shooting, 
 which in some places is exceedingly good ; and 
 snipe abound in all parts ; the latter birds are 
 scarcely wild enough ; instead of the long cir- 
 cular flight of the English bird, they drop 
 almost immediately; and consequently the 
 sport is tame. I do not wish to write a disser- 
 tation upon shooting in Canada ; but as my pen 
 slips over the paper, recollection upon recol- 
 lection of happy days, and glorious sport, crowd 
 fast upon the mind, and I really find it difficult 
 to confine myself to a mere general statement of 
 
 $k 
 
CANADA. 
 
 231 
 
 I,' 
 
 bad, that 
 The con- 
 lonths of 
 i of mine 
 than 120 
 roaching 
 ;er is so 
 tre drank 
 it must 
 ^fintem- 
 lout the 
 iscent of 
 -^articu- 
 ; ire for 
 is pur- 
 id early 
 
 looting, 
 )d; and 
 irds are 
 ong cir- 
 y drop 
 ly the 
 disser- 
 mypen 
 recol- 
 , crowd 
 difficult 
 nieiit of 
 
 
 its advantages. Of this I am sure, that no one 
 who follows my advice, and takes a run across 
 the Atlantic for a couple of months of summer, 
 for the purpose of shooting over this part, and 
 many others, of Canada, will regret it. During 
 the winter the only sport is deer hunting, with 
 an occasional '* chasse" after a black bear. The 
 first of those sports is very fatiguing, and needs 
 a strong, almost Herculean constitution, and the 
 latter has a little too much danger in it, to please 
 most people. 
 
 While I am upon this subject, I must devote a 
 few lines to the capital fishing along the lake 
 shores. Our mode was this ; we usually left in 
 J), boat about nine in the morning, with all the 
 accompaniments for ^'trolling." Two, pulled 
 the boat gently along, while the rest of the 
 party handled the rods. Our bait was a piece 
 of tin or brass (called a " brazen serpent") about 
 three inches long, shaped like a little fish, with 
 a slight curve, and each fin of the tail bent dif- 
 ferent ways ; this bait, of course, worked on a 
 double swivel and twisted round a few inches 
 under the water, with the ''way" of the boat; 
 sometimes a piece of red rag answers the same 
 purpose. Usually we had out about thirty yards 
 of line, or perhaps forty. "Bass," a fine heavy 
 fish, ranging from two to six pounds weight, and 
 greedy, gluttonous pike, from five to twenty, 
 
IM' 
 
 i(- 
 
 ?A ■ 
 
 hi 
 
 p.- 
 
 1 
 
 232 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 were the chief sport. The fly fisher will pro- 
 bably say, how could any one find amusement 
 in anything so tame ; let him try it, and I shall 
 be much mistaken if the sneer do not change to 
 a smile of pleasure, as the boat slowly makes 
 its way over the limpid waters, under the shade 
 of sweet-smelling cedars, dipping their pendant 
 boughs in the lake ; when the brillant sun is re- 
 flected from the waters, and the air is balmy 
 and soft ; when each little bay yields up its 
 treasures to the rod, and each headland offers 
 to the eye, an ever-changing and lovely scene. 
 Let me assure him also, that some skill is re- 
 quired to land safely in the boat, by means of a 
 *'gaff," a fish like a pike of twenty pounds weight, 
 which reserves its strength for a final struggle, 
 and plunge, as the line is reeled up, and the 
 fish is near the boat. The " bass," too, al- 
 though by nature a sluggish fish, at times shows 
 good play. Salmon fishing takes place during 
 tlie cold months of the }'ear, and is chiefly fol- 
 lowed by those who seek a livelihood fi:om it. 
 Tlie fish is salted, packed in barrels, and sold 
 at about nine dollars the barrel. 
 
 \t times, in the dusk of evening, a bright 
 liglit, moving slowly over the water close to the 
 banks, with a diuk-iooking object, spear in hand, 
 behind it, marks the course of one who is seeking 
 tospourtheunsuspectiii<j,.salnian, as its dark body 
 
 •, 
 
 
 .<. 
 
CANADA. 
 
 233 
 
 nil pro- 
 isement 
 1 1 shall 
 ange to 
 makes 
 e shade 
 )eiidaiit 
 n is re- 
 balmy 
 1 up its 
 d offers 
 r scene. 
 1 is re- 
 ins of a 
 jveight, 
 •uggle, 
 nd the 
 00, al- 
 shows 
 luring 
 ly fol- 
 om it. 
 d sold 
 
 bright 
 to the 
 hand, 
 uking 
 body 
 
 is revealed, by the light, thrown over the water 
 from the blazing tripod stuck in the bow of the 
 boat. This is a pretty sight from afar. Few 
 beginners ever strike the fish ; the eye is de- 
 ceived, and the water turns the spear, — ^practice 
 is necessary. Occasionally, we made amazing 
 hauls with a '' sein" net ; throwing away bushel 
 after bushel of fish, as a useless encumbrance ; 
 and on one occasion caught a huge fish (very 
 scarce in those lakes) called a " Muskelongi ;" 
 its weight was a little under forty-six pounds. 
 The fish was sent as a present to the Governor- 
 General. The quantity of fish to be at any 
 time obtained (except during the depth of the 
 winter) makes no contemptible addition to the 
 rather restricted commissariat of a Canadian 
 farm house. During the winter, no fresh meat 
 is be had. In the early spring ''staggering 
 bob," or the vapid flesh of a calf, two or three 
 days, (or as it always seemed to me two or three 
 hours) old, is the first fresh meat tasted for 
 months. Salted and spiced beef, forms the 
 stai)le winter food, and certainly a well spiced 
 round, is provender not to be despised. Vege- 
 tables are unprocurable during the winter sea- 
 son, except potatoes ; and even this hardy ve- 
 getable requires great care: but during the 
 summer, cabbages, lettuces, onions, radishes, 
 nmstard and cress, will thrive well, if much 
 
 
 :■$ 
 ■Ml 
 
 
 • 1. 
 
 rv. 
 
234 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 ill 
 
 attention be paid to them : otherwise, they will 
 not. Gardening of any kind is a rather 
 hazardous experiment, owing to unseasonable, 
 and very severe night frosts, and great drought. 
 Melons thrive, as the heat of the sun is gi'eat ; 
 and flowers blow, with exceeding brilliancy of 
 colour, from the same cause. 
 
 The year can scarcely be said to be divided 
 into four seasons in Canada. Winter melts at 
 once into summer, which, in its turn, as rapidly 
 gives place to ice and snow. The climate of 
 this part of Canada has one merit : it is regular 
 and positive in character ; not as in England — 
 a scries of alternations. The heat of summer is 
 great ; indeed, almost tropical ; and for three 
 months, or rather more, continuous. The cold 
 of winter is that of Siberia, and as constant as 
 the brilliant sun of summer. There are people 
 who like a Canada climate. I am not one of 
 these. Eighty degrees difference between tL. 
 temperature in the house, and that of the open 
 air, is far too trying, both to the temper and 
 ccmstitution. The air may be pure, and the sun 
 may shine, for a few hours every day ; but it 
 would take more than this to delude me into a 
 belief, that such a climate is agreeable. Yet I 
 scarcely expect to be believed when I state, 
 that our Irish maids used to go out bareheaded 
 and bare-footed, into the ice and snow, to bring 
 
 i 
 
 'it!' 
 
 1 
 
 BL.. M 
 
( / 
 
 \ 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 235 
 
 :liey will 
 a rather 
 tsonablO) 
 drought. 
 is gi'eat ; 
 iiancy of 
 
 divided 
 
 melts at 
 
 J rapidly 
 
 iniate of 
 
 } regular 
 
 igland — 
 
 mmer is 
 
 [or three 
 
 rhe cold 
 
 Lstant as 
 
 B people 
 
 one of 
 
 rcen tL> 
 
 he open 
 
 per and 
 
 the sun 
 
 i but it 
 
 into a 
 
 Yet I 
 
 state, 
 
 headed 
 
 bring 
 
 in firewood for the stoves, when the thermo- 
 meter was at seventy, within doors, and fifteen 
 or sixteen below zero, without : so little is the 
 cold felt by some persons. I have seen the ice 
 over the bay of Quints unbroken, on the 1 8th of 
 April, much snow on the ground at the same 
 time, and the frost still in the earth. In most 
 countries the quantity of snow on the ground 
 during the winter is considered a guage of sum- 
 mer fertility ; and, in the North of England, 
 there is a proverb to this effect (it is there called 
 the earth's blanket). Here, it cherishes an 
 enemy, which, although a small one, does infi- 
 nite mischief. Immense numbers of field mice 
 (white) burrow under the warm snow, breed in 
 it ; and, when the snow thaws, you are horror- 
 struck at finding, that they have barked the 
 young trees by hundreds. Should you have an 
 orchard, it will be half destroyed ; and your 
 flower garden will present sad evidence of these 
 little creatures, in the shape of nests in the 'roots 
 of the plants, which they have also fed on dur- 
 ing the whole winter. Every climate has its 
 drawbacks, no doubt : some are too hot, some 
 too cold ; none are perfect throughout the year. 
 That of England, much abused as it is, is the 
 best, as far as my experience goes, in the world, 
 for a tolerably healthy person. That of Canada, 
 although very severe in tlic winter, and hot in 
 
 i^'H. 
 
 if- 
 
 i 
 
m 
 
 
 f ' 
 
 230 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 tho sunimor, with abrupt transitions between the 
 seaaonH, is, in most parts of tlio country, healthy, 
 and conducive to longevity. The summer is 
 generally delightful, and, therefore, it would be 
 out of all rule, were it to last long. But those 
 who have not been long resident suffer much 
 from mos(iuitoes ; which are as venomous, and 
 as peraovoringly harassing, as in tropical cli- 
 mates. Some constitutions are affected, to a 
 grievous extent, by their attacks. As an in- 
 stance, I will mention, that I slept in a tent, for 
 one night only, with a friend, who joined me in 
 a wild-fowl shooting excursion. The tent was 
 pitched on a sandy beach, within a yard or two 
 of tlic lake, and separated from an extensive 
 tract of marshy ground, by a slight belt of trees. 
 In such a situation, it was hopeless to escape 
 those tormentors : but we did what we could. 
 Tobacco .«moke was useless, and the smoke from 
 a wood fire only served to irritate the eyes. 
 We, therefore, covered our faces with handker- 
 chiefs, and slept in gloves. Yet, even then, 
 after taking these precautions, these venomous 
 little wretches bit my companion so severely, 
 tliat, on his return home, he was confined to his 
 bed for three weeks. Need I say, he was a very 
 fat man. For five months the earth is every 
 year covered with snow ; and, during this 
 I)eriod, it is necessary to keep all stock within 
 
 II! !: 
 
 ii:; 
 
CANADA. 
 
 2.M7 
 
 woon the 
 healthy, 
 inimer is 
 v^ould be 
 ^ut those 
 er much 
 ous, and 
 )ical di- 
 ed, to a 
 8 an in- 
 tent, for 
 3d me in 
 ;ent was 
 d or two 
 xtensive 
 of trees, 
 escape 
 could, 
 ce from 
 eyes, 
 mdker- 
 then, 
 lonious 
 vorely, 
 i to his 
 a very 
 every 
 ■ this 
 within 
 
 well -protected Htock-yards, and to stall-feed 
 tlicm. This is a great drawback upon Canadian 
 farming ; and in many cases, where the winter 
 is unusually prolonged, the cattle die in num- 
 bers, and those which live through it, become 
 mere spectres : the skin collapses on the gaunt 
 sides and huge prominent bones ; while, as they 
 grow thinner and thinner every day, you at last 
 expect to be able to see through these miserable 
 anatomical specimens of three-quarter starved 
 life. Feeding this stock, attending to the 
 horses, chopping wood, and drawing it in 
 sleighs from tlie back part of the farm, are the 
 chief labours of the winter. There is no other 
 out-door work to do : consequently, when con- 
 trasted with the busy, hot, short summer, it is 
 comparatively idle time. Much visiting takes 
 place : sleighs, with their fur-enveloped occu 
 pants, glide musically over the snow; the 
 whiskey goes round as well as the waltz ; match- 
 making mammas atford plenty of opportunities 
 for their daughters ; etiquette goes out, when 
 the frost comes in. Almost every district has 
 its sleighing club ; of course, so gay a party as 
 we were, could not be without ours. Twice a 
 week we met at each others houses in succes- 
 sion. At half-past one or two o'clock, a hot 
 lunclieon, with whiskey punch, put all, not ex- 
 cepting oui- fair companions (who, to do them 
 
 ' -i:'. 
 
 m 
 
1 
 
 p 
 
 2;m 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 justice, rarely complained of tlio stronf^th of the 
 beverage), into capital humour for the drive. 
 The party, being arranged and well tucked up 
 in a mass of buffalo robes, and other more 
 costly furs, started, one after another, at slight 
 intervals, intent upon enjoyment. The bells on 
 the horses ring cheerily; the pace, perhaps, 
 twelve miles an hour ; the motion, smooth and 
 agreeable, and the country over which you 
 glide offering much to interest in the long, 
 straight lines of trees, beautifully covered with 
 glittering snow, and pendant icicles. After the 
 drive, as evening closed in, a dance or two 
 ended the amusement for that day, and, at a 
 very early hour, all were snugly housed by 
 their own firesides. One great charm of these 
 sleighing parties is this : young ladies willingly 
 trust themselves, and the mammas as willingly 
 confide their daughters (unaccompanied by any 
 one to play propriety), to the charioteering 
 skill of the young bachelor candidates for this 
 honour ! The records of every regiment will 
 tell tho havock made on these occasions. No 
 *' sub" is safe, and there is scarcely a captain, 
 who is not caught; while sour *' senior majors" 
 are heard to complain, that the " mess" is sadly 
 broken up, and that men become *' dead" to the 
 service, in Canadian winter quarters. 
 
 Society costs but little in Canada, for the 
 
 
th of the 
 le drive, 
 icked up 
 3r more 
 at sliglit 
 bolls on 
 perhaps, 
 oth and 
 ich you 
 le long, 
 red with 
 Vfter the 
 
 or two 
 id, at a 
 iised by 
 of these 
 illingly 
 illingly 
 
 by any 
 
 ecring 
 for this 
 nt will 
 No 
 
 aptain. 
 
 IS. 
 
 >j 
 
 najors 
 18 sadly 
 to the 
 
 br the 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 sao 
 
 necessaries of life are cheap, and luxuries are 
 neither looked for, nor to be had. Friends are 
 contented with a kind welcome, and feel all the 
 more at their ease, when conscious that the hont 
 (rarely a rich man) will suffer little at their 
 hands. I know few countries where grwitcr 
 hospitality prevails, or where people feel leas 
 degraded by being often obliged to perform 
 menial offices for themselves. A lady in Canada, 
 in the strict sense of the term, is none the less 
 so, because she has spent her morning in salt- 
 ing beef, making tallow candles, and other 
 kindred household duties. At homo, she would 
 infallibly lose *' caste" — that dire bugbear. 
 Here she does not. Servants are a great 
 plague — expensive, whimsical, and idle. On 
 one occasion a servant, who came to bo hired 
 by a lady friend of mine, entered the room, and 
 immediately seated herself on the sofa by the 
 lady of the house; scrutinized her *^oroughly ; 
 asked the nature of the duties she was expected 
 to perform, and her salary; and then said ab- 
 ruptly — " Well, I likes the looks of you, and I 
 guess I'll come." This was all that passed. 
 How long she stayed I should be sorry to say : 
 probably three days. I recollect reading some- 
 where, in a book on life and manners in the 
 Western States, that a servant, believing that 
 her mistress had called to her, but, not being 
 
 'TU 
 
iil 
 ill 
 
 240 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 If J 
 
 
 >^ 
 
 
 
 & 
 
 
 
 i3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ••S 
 
 ( 
 
 
 ■7^ ^ 
 
 
 
 "%| 
 
 ! 
 
 
 fpilto Huro of tlio fact, iisccrtalnod it by the fol- 
 lowing question — '* 1 Huy, mam, did you holler ? 
 I thought I heard a yell." Most of the women 
 servants are Irish ; and the men, who hire them- 
 selves as farm servants, always expect to bo 
 boarded in the house : which is really an almoHt 
 intolerable nuisance ; and if the lady should, 
 unfortunately, from any cause, be without ser- 
 vants, these people will be offended if their din- 
 ner is not cooked, and their rooms attended to, 
 by her. Indeed, I am not sure that the conti- 
 nual series of petty annoyances a lady has to en- 
 dure in this country are not more hard to bear, 
 than the more laborious duties of her husband. 
 Unfortunately, too, no gentleman farmer can 
 make anything by his farm. All he can hope 
 to do, is to save the little money derived from 
 other sources ; make his farm supply his table ; 
 pay the wages of his servants, and save his house- 
 rent. An emigrant accustomed to daily labour 
 may do more than this ; but a gentleman can- 
 not. His case is poor, indeed, unless backed by 
 an income, independent of his farm and its pro- 
 duce. Without this he can have none of the 
 little luxuries and pleasures of life; and it is 
 surprising how small a sum will be sufficient for 
 this purpose. A man with a family of four or 
 five children is quite at his ease with a farm of 
 150 acres and 500 dollars a year, or £100. 
 
; 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 241 
 
 the fol- 
 holler ? 
 wonicii 
 
 thcm- 
 t to bo 
 
 1 alniOHt 
 should, 
 Dut ser- 
 cir din- 
 ided to, 
 coiiti- 
 is to en- 
 o bear, 
 usband. 
 ler can 
 n hope 
 d from 
 
 table ; 
 house- 
 labour 
 in can- 
 kedby 
 its pro- 
 of the 
 d it is 
 ont for 
 "our or 
 arm of 
 £100. 
 
 This is not a brilliant account : but the truth. 
 To become rich, or even to make money slowly, 
 is impossible. A dollar, is nearly equal to a 
 ptvund ; but then the dollar is more difficult to 
 obtain, than the pound elsewhere. Specie of 
 all kinds is scarce in the country districts, and 
 a system of barter supplies its place with the 
 storekeepers ; who give you, at an exorbitant 
 profit to themselves, tea, sugar, and other neces- 
 saries, in return for wheat, wool, or any other 
 produce ot your f -m you may have to sell. Go 
 into a store iii >. anada, with ready money in 
 your hani^^ nnd you ca- make almost any bar- 
 gain you like. Barter, or exchange commodi- 
 ties, and you are sure to be imposed upon — 
 more or less. 
 
 Before I leave the bay of Quints, I must add 
 a few words about the farm-houses, and the gene- 
 ral scenery, of the colony of Upper Canada. A 
 good farm-house is rare. They are generally 
 constructed of wood, either in the shape of the 
 pi 'mitive log-hut, or the more ambitious frame- 
 house ; which, although more finished looking 
 and expensive, is, by no means, so warm or 
 comfortable, in many respects, as the simple 
 log-hut. Stone houses are occasionally put up 
 on farms ; but I have never seen one of brick. 
 In most cases, the barn, is a much larger build- 
 ing, than the house. Everything connected 
 
 Q 
 
 sis' 
 
 f 
 
 
m 
 
 III 
 
 il 
 
 242 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 with the house, buildings, and farming, in the 
 country districts of Canada, is dirty, slovenly, 
 and patchy. Neither time nor money is ever 
 spent on mere decorations. A dollar must pro- 
 duce a dollar, or it is never parted with. You 
 may travel for miles, without seeing a flower 
 garden : and even kitchen gardens are compa- 
 ratively rare. I am not now, of course, speak- 
 ing of the wealthy gentleman farmer or his pro- 
 perty ; but of the working farmer, who has 
 nothing to depend on but his land and his 
 labour. It always struck me, that few, if any, 
 Canadian agriculturists, have any attachment 
 to the soil they cultivate. In other countries, 
 men like a thing, because it is their own, and 
 for the improvements they have made upon it. 
 Here, it is not so : every man will sell, if he 
 can. Indeed, he has, in most cases, improved 
 his property, for that purpose alone. 
 
 Canadian scenery is, on the whole, unattrac- 
 tive. There are some pretty districts near the 
 lakes, and on the banks of the St. Lawrence ; 
 but, generally speaking, the interior is formal 
 and ugly. The mode of laying out farms has 
 much contributed to this. The land has been 
 cut up into parallelograms of the same length, 
 but varying in width, according to the size of 
 the farm, whether 100, 150, 200 acres, or more. 
 This mode has been adopted, in order that each 
 
 
 !,.!-' 
 4':-' 
 
 I ..■!.■! 
 
 ^I't H 
 
 ^■gjSi WT>J'^Ht^W8!n .1g^^B^gN W«J l^ >^^ f w« ^■^!w»*^^'> 
 
CANADA. 
 
 243 
 
 , in the 
 lovenly, 
 Y is ever 
 mst pro- 
 h. You 
 a flower 
 s compa- 
 E5, speak- 
 r his pro- 
 who has 
 
 and his 
 r, if any, 
 achment 
 ountries, 
 wn, and 
 
 upon it. 
 ell, if he 
 mproved 
 
 inattrac- 
 near the 
 wrence ; 
 s formal 
 rms has 
 as been 
 length, 
 e size of 
 or more, 
 liat each 
 
 farm, may have some frontage to a good road. 
 The distance between the roads, is the length 
 of two farms. Anybody, therefore, may con- 
 ceive, how this way of laying out a country, 
 must destroy all hope of beauty. 
 
 Wherever Nature has compelled a departure 
 from this utilitarian fashion, of dividing her fea- 
 tures into sections or blocks, there, you may look 
 for beauty. This is the case around the bay of 
 Quints, and in some other parts of the country. 
 The distance between the roads, is generally 
 three miles : therefore, each farm is a mile and 
 a half long, and, consequently, very narrow in 
 proportion to its length : which, for many pur- 
 poses of farming, is highly inconvenient. At 
 the back of each lot, a space is left uncleared, to 
 supply firewood for the house, which is almost 
 always built, close to the road. The trees 
 generally stand too close together, to admit of 
 branches growing near the ground. When, 
 therefore, the timber is cut down, nothing can 
 be more hideous than the appearance of the 
 clearing — a belt of straight, branchless trees 
 (except a tuft or two at the top), bounding it on 
 all sides ; and, from the same cause, it is rare 
 that any attempt at leaving small clumps of trees 
 for the sake of beauty, or variety, is made. The 
 axe is wielded by reckless, and rather barbarian, 
 
 hands : it clears by the acre, and is soldoni ar- 
 
 y2 
 
 ■M 
 
 !it; 
 
2U 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 rested in its stroke. The stumps, too, remain, 
 for many years, in the ground. A pine stump 
 will take forty or fifty years, to decay. A Cana- 
 dian farm, therefore, is not generally a very 
 attractive spot, to an eye, fresh from the green 
 fields and glades of the Old World. Time will 
 probably modify, in a great measure, the crude 
 harshness of external nature ; while increase of 
 population, and the development of the re- 
 sources of the province, by the railways now 
 being made, will operate quite as beneficially 
 in softening the character, and polishing the 
 manners, of the rather primitive inhabitants cf 
 Canada West. 
 
 e€^&« 
 
 IL 
 
 .fCWViBnBHnS^Sn 
 
KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 
 
 245 
 
 'emain, 
 stump 
 L Cana- 
 a very 
 ) green 
 me will 
 e crude 
 rease of 
 the re- 
 ya now 
 jficially 
 ing the 
 tants of 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 FROM KINaSTON TO MONTREAL.— lake 
 
 OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. SCENERY OF THE 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE. RAPIDS. MONTREAL. SOCIETY 
 
 AND MANNERS IN THAT CITY. POLITICS. CLI- 
 MATE. LA PRAIRIE TO ST. JOHN's. — LAKE 
 
 champlain. — saratoga springs. — hotels in 
 
 the states. concentration of travel. 
 
 new york. its prosperity, and that of the 
 
 Union. 
 
 T left Kingston, for Montreal, by a small 
 steamer. For the first fifty or sixty miles, 
 the river slowly glides between hundreds of 
 islands, varying in size from a few miles, to the 
 mere rock of a few feet in diameter : all, are 
 beautifully wooded with cedar or pine ; and the 
 stream, flows tranquilly past them, without 
 noise, or even a ripple. No one can fail to be 
 much struck, with the beanty and singularity, 
 this part of the scenery of the St. Lawrence. An 
 unpoetical traveller may not possibly be quite 
 prepared to agree with " Moore," that here 
 
 —^ ' *' The first sinful pair 
 
 For consolation might have, weeping, trod, 
 When banished from the garden of their God." 
 
 But insensibility to the many charms, of thig 
 
 i 
 
 w 
 
246 
 
 KINGSTON TO 
 
 maze of water and land, is impossiljle. The 
 etream, opposite Prescott or Ogdensburgh, con- 
 tracts considerably, and flows more rapidly, 
 between higher banks, until it opens out again, 
 into one of those large expansions of water, for 
 which this, and other, of the gigantic streams 
 of North America, are so remarkable. Between 
 Lake St. Francis, and the junction of the Ottawa 
 River with the St. Lawrence, there are several 
 considerable rapids ; but, though the boat 
 descends them with amazing speed, they ofior 
 no danger whatever, to a steamer. The only 
 rapid, between Kingston and Montreal, which 
 is really dangerous, is the " La Chine." A few 
 miles above this rapid, we stopped to take on 
 board an Indian, from a native village, on the 
 right bank of the stream. He was our pilot ; 
 and I never shall forget the expression of the 
 man's eyes, as he grasped the helm of the 
 steamer, while she was shooting through the 
 twisting, zig-zag channels, between the rocks ; 
 nor the dignity, with which (having proved 
 himself equal to the task assigned him) he 
 abruptly resigned the tiller, and appeared to 
 scorn any further connection with the vessel, 
 or her management. 
 
 I may as well observe, that no vessels ever ven- 
 ture to descend these rapids except passengers' 
 steamers. Those which are merely engaged in 
 
 I 
 I I 
 
 1 •,! 
 
 ;:^^B? 
 
I. The 
 
 ^li, con- 
 
 -apidly, 
 
 b again, 
 
 ter, for 
 
 streams 
 
 letween 
 
 Ottawa 
 
 several 
 
 e boat 
 
 ey offer 
 
 le only 
 
 , which 
 
 A few 
 
 ;ake on 
 
 on the 
 
 pilot ; 
 
 of the 
 
 of the 
 
 gh the 
 
 rocks ; 
 
 proved 
 
 im) he 
 
 ired to 
 
 vessel, 
 
 cr ven- 
 engers' 
 Rged in 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 247 
 
 trade, avail themselves of the numerous canals 
 which have been constructed ; in order that the 
 rapids may be avoided. To ascend the rapids, 
 is impossible. All vessels must, then, make use 
 of the canals. 
 
 After passing " La Chine," the river bends 
 abruptly to the left ; and the city of Montreal, 
 with its fine quays — large, square-rigged, sea- 
 going ships, and the rising ground of Mont 
 Royal, behind the white houses, and glittering 
 zinc roofs and spires — strikes the eye of one, 
 who, for twelve months, has seen nothing but 
 the comparative stagnation and poverty of 
 Upper Canada, as something peculiarly magni- 
 ficent. It transports him to the Old World. 
 There is a solidity and sober gravity about 
 Montreal, which form a striking contrast to the 
 fragile, but showy, appearance of the villages, 
 towns, and cities further AVest. 
 
 The city lines the curved bank of the river, for 
 about two miles, and possesses a population of 
 sixty or sixty -five thousand people. By far the 
 majoriij , are Roman Catholics : and the Cathe- 
 dral, is decidedly the largest and most ecclesias- 
 tical looking building in Canada ; or, indeed, in 
 any part of North America. Its architectus ^ is 
 C /ihic, and it pc v sses six very lofty tow 0.6: 
 one of which I shout a advise a ' ••avellor to ascend, 
 as the view is both exten' '- e, and beauUliiL 
 
 ( ' 
 
« ^ 
 
 ^i' 
 
 I; 
 
 
 ; r • ■■■■... 
 
 Ml isi. 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 248 
 
 KINGSTON TO 
 
 Paul-street is the chief commercial thorough- 
 fare, and Notiv? Dmne-street the most fashion- 
 able. M jtitreal is at the head of the navigation 
 of tlic St. Lawrpnco U v sea-going ships ; and 
 the harbour reaiaini> iiee from ice, from the end 
 of May antil November. 
 
 The society is most excellent, and the hospi- 
 tality^ and kinducbs of the resident French Ca- 
 nadians unboT/«^ded. All who have visited the 
 city, will bear willing testimony to this, and to 
 the mild, lady-like, winning manners of its fair 
 inhabitants. The change, from the abrupt rus- 
 ticity, of the greater part of the Upper Province, 
 strikes a traveller forcibly. He passes, at a 
 bound, as it were, into an entirely new social 
 atmogiphere, which recalls to his mind the never- 
 to-be-forgotten charms of a French drawing- 
 room. The French Canadian, has retained the 
 suavity, and, in a great measure, the ideas, both 
 social and political, of the ancestors from whom 
 he sprung ; and who quitted their native land, 
 about the time of Louis Quator^o. 
 
 Republicanism has made but little way among 
 this people ; and tliey remain as attached as 
 ever to their religion, and the old feudal system 
 imported from France. The French Canadian 
 differs, in short, widely, from the h-^ul of ^he 
 presf ' ^iay, in the land oi liis f /Lors. 
 
 Uiii unately, since the junction of the two 
 
 
orough- 
 fashion- 
 igation 
 IS ; and 
 the end 
 
 3 hospi- 
 ich Ga- 
 ted the 
 
 and to 
 ' its fair 
 ipt rus- 
 ovince, 
 s, at a 
 7 social 
 
 never- 
 
 awing- 
 aed the 
 IS, both 
 
 whom 
 land, 
 
 among 
 led as 
 ystem 
 
 nadian 
 of ^\g 
 
 le two 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 549 
 
 provinces into one colony, and the removal of 
 the seat of Government to Montreal, two anta- 
 gonistic races, with really nothing in common, 
 have been brought into close and immediate 
 contact ; and the result has been, that almost 
 all questions — social, political, and religious- 
 have been discussed in a very rancorous spirit. 
 Debates of a rather warm nature, in the Legis- 
 lative Council, and House of Representatives, 
 have acquired additional virulence when trans- 
 planted to the meetings of the lower order 
 of hahitans: who are certainly ignorant, and 
 bigoted, and, consequently, easily Vd astray, by 
 their Priests, or any political adventurer, who 
 thinks it worth while, to play upon their sim- 
 plicity. Most people know the result : good 
 government has become almost impossible ; riot 
 has succeeded riot ; and blood has flowed freely 
 (even within the last few months) in the streets 
 of a city, once, one of the gayest, and most 
 peaceable, in the world. I have always been 
 of opinion, that the Provinces should have been 
 allowed to remain, politically, disconnected ; 
 and recent events have fully confirmed me in 
 that opinion — though reams of Despatches and 
 Reports have been circulated to the contrary. 
 You cannot make the ultra French Lower Cana- 
 dian, fraternize with the ultra Saxon inhabi- 
 tant of the Upper Province ; and I cannot help 
 
 ,■ 
 
 1/ 
 
 I' 
 
 w 
 
a 
 
 ^ 
 
 '.■ii 
 
 250 
 
 KINGSTON TO 
 
 thinking that it was a sad mistake to endeavour 
 to do so : though, doubtless, it was anticipated, 
 that success would follow the attempt, and a 
 gradual amalgamation between the races, be the 
 result. 
 
 In every colony visited by me — and they are 
 not a few — I have always thought that the posi- 
 tion of the Governor, was peculiarly trying. It 
 is almost impossible for him either to give satis- 
 faction, or even, to govern well. In almost 
 every case, he must be entirely unacquainted 
 eitiier with the people, or tlieir wants, over 
 whom he is appointed to rule. Books will teach 
 him nothing, but abstract principles. Political 
 Economy, as a science, may be learned from 
 them ; but experience alone, can make him a 
 successful ruler. This inexperience, on his 
 part, it is sought to correct, by a functionary, 
 'who is supposed to be the '' nurse," of each 
 succeeding Governor. This person, however, 
 has, in most cases, been long enough confined 
 to a comparatively small sphere, to have become 
 more or less involved in the personal quarrels 
 which generally rage fiercely around him. From 
 the first, therefore, the unfortunate Governor's 
 mind is jaundiced. 
 
 Everything is presented to him through a 
 more or less distorted medium. Had he visited 
 the seat of his Governmentj as a pr;' te and 
 
^ > 
 
 MONTREAL. 
 
 251 
 
 unknown person, ho might have formed a cool, 
 dispassionate opinion, for himself; but hemmed 
 in by the circumstances of his position, this is 
 impossible. Whnt, therefore, can he do ? If 
 he delay, or hesitate for any time, his term of 
 office expires ; while, if he makes up his mind 
 to act, he must do so, ( ither at hap-hazard, or 
 throw himself upon some person, on whom he 
 imagines he can best rely : and at once brings 
 down on his devoted head the hatred and malice 
 of all the personal enemies of the individual 
 selected. Be chary, therefore, of censure on 
 the conduct of an individual so placed ; and, at 
 least, as the criminal lawyers say, " give the 
 prisoner the benefit of the doubt." It is noto- 
 rious, that llie state of political feeling has 
 been, for man^^ rs past, so bad in Canada, 
 thai I have beeu anable to refrain from these 
 remarks. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Priests possess -at 
 power in Lower Canada. Indeed, wherever the 
 standard of education is low, among a people, 
 the clergy are invariably powerful, in propor- 
 tion to the V^f^rance around them. When peo- 
 ple think for themselves, they are very apt to 
 throw themselves more upon their God, and less 
 upon the ministers, of his Church. 
 
 The old law of tithe (though not our English 
 tithe, but the comparatively merciful twenty 
 
 " 3 
 
 m 
 
 I. 
 
 ■■M^' 
 
■" I 
 
 lt< 
 
 ' ,.1'. 
 
 Rf.-l 
 
 252 
 
 KINGSTON TO 
 
 sixth part of the produce of the old French 
 law), still Bubsista here ; though, so far modi- 
 fied, that it ia only from the members of his own 
 flock, that the Priest can claim it. A Protestant 
 farmer, is exemj)t. The poor habitan, also, has 
 another master, and tax-gatherer, in the person 
 of the *' seigneur," who still exercises, undeif 
 the cold sky of Canada, the same privileges and 
 right over his vassal, as did his father in Lau- 
 guedoc, or Provence. Those facts are pretty 
 generally known in this travelling and reading 
 age ; but their results, nevertheless, strike forci- 
 bly when on the spot : for all that one hears and 
 sees, at Montreal, is in marked contract to the 
 language, habits, manners, religion, and laws, 
 of the Stc.tes and [»ooplt' who form their imme- 
 diate neighbours. 
 
 The climate is very sovore, and subject to 
 rapid alternations. The cold of winter, is 
 intense, and the heat of the h^ Tt summer, 
 equally extreme. The surroundmg country 
 looks bleak and cold, and the large vegetation, 
 speaks of a bitter northern clime. I believe, 
 however, that the land produces good crops of 
 wheat. 
 
 The great change which takes place in cli- 
 mate, in a comparatively small distance, either 
 north or south, east or west, is one of the peculi- 
 arities of North America. I observed it, between 
 
 if-:,' 
 
 ! ' 1 
 ■ t 
 
 !■!; 
 
MONTREAL. 
 
 253 
 
 French 
 ir modi- 
 
 his own 
 otestant 
 iIho, has 
 ) person 
 I, under 
 »gos and 
 in Lau- 
 
 pretty 
 reading 
 ce forei* 
 3ars and 
 
 to the 
 d laws, 
 
 imme- 
 
 )ject to 
 iter, is 
 immor, 
 jountry 
 station, 
 )elieve, 
 rops of 
 
 in cli- 
 
 either 
 
 peculi- 
 
 3tween 
 
 Montreal and the southern extremity of Lake 
 Chaniplain ; and, also, between the eafitom and 
 western ends of Lake Ontario. It is, I believe, 
 admitted, that a degree of west'ng, is, in the 
 north part of this Continent, equivalent to a 
 degree of southing, in its effect on climate : 
 besides which, the greater or less exposure of 
 different dintricts to the cold winds, which 
 sweep down from the gulf of St. Lawrence, 
 produces an important i/iodification in tem- 
 perature. For instance, there is little more 
 than a degree of latitude, between Boston and 
 New York : yet, because the harbour of the 
 former city is exposed to these winds, and that 
 of New York is sheltered from them, the har- 
 bour of Boston is closed by ice, for a consider- 
 able period, during the winter ; whereas, that 
 of New York, is open all the year round, from 
 the sea ; though both the North and the East 
 Rivers are occasionally rendered unnavigable, 
 from masses of floating ice. There is, in fact, 
 nothing more difficult, than to form an accurate 
 idea of climate from the mere latitude of the 
 place, or district under investigation. The tem- 
 perature, and the nature of the air, will be mo- 
 dified by so many extraneous causes, that an 
 approximation is all that can be hoped for : and 
 in America, even this, is impossible. Nothing 
 but a practical knowledge of the country will 
 
254 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 :? ' 
 
 .11, 
 
 enable any one to form a correct opinion upon 
 the subject. 
 
 I crossed tlio St. Lawrence, for about seven 
 miles, to La Prairie; and from thence took the 
 railroad to St. John's. The country between 
 the St. I^awrenoo, and the head of Lake Cham- 
 plain, is level and uninteresting; and I embarked 
 for Whitehall, in one of the cleanest, and best 
 managed steamers possi])le. The boat, was the 
 property of the gentleman who commanded her, 
 and whoso courteous and kind manner, has 
 made him desei'vedly pojmlar with all who have 
 travelled by his vessel. Ilis excessive attention 
 to the cleanliness of his steamer, and the com- 
 fort of his passengers, may be illustrated by this. 
 No cigar end, or trace of tobacco in any shape, 
 was ever allowed, by him, to tarnish, for a 
 moment, the purity of his deck. As soon as it 
 appeared, the avenging swab, was certain to 
 remove it. In a country like America, where 
 everybody either smokes, or uses tobacco, in 
 a more unpleasant manner, I confess I was both 
 surprised and gratified, to see so unusual an 
 exemplification of regard, for the feeling of those, 
 who look upon both practices, with anything 
 but favour. The passengers were numerous ; 
 and among them was a person, who gained a 
 living by travelling continually in the steamers 
 and railroads of his o'^untry, with a box of boots, 
 
 
 &»■ 
 
 ^jj* - ,^,',.-^^?t;;.: 
 
. ) 
 
 KFAV YOUR. 
 
 255 
 
 an upon 
 
 it Hoven 
 ook the 
 between 
 ) Cham- 
 nbiirked 
 ind best 
 was tlie 
 led her, 
 ler, has 
 ho liave 
 ttcntion 
 ic com- 
 by this. 
 
 shape, 
 
 for a 
 
 on as it 
 
 tain to 
 
 where 
 ceo, in 
 as both 
 sual an 
 f those, 
 ything 
 icrous ; 
 inod a 
 Darners 
 
 boots. 
 
 shaving soap, books, or, perhaps, an infalli})lo 
 cake, lor removino^, at once, all sttiins of grease, 
 from cloth ; or something else, which was in 
 pretty general demand ; and neither cumbrous 
 nor costly. Tliis syntem of peddling is, indeed, 
 very common in the United States ; and as but 
 little expense is incurred (for the fares, by public 
 conveyances, are cheap), it is found highlyremu- 
 norative. It so happened, that the conversation 
 on board, had been rather more general and 
 discursive than usual ; and, in the course of it, 
 some remarks were illustrated by me, by refe- 
 rences to places, and countries, lying rather 
 remote from one another. I observed this man, 
 looking for some time, rather intently ; and evi- 
 dently taking an unusual interest in what was 
 going on. At lengt^ '"^ made up his mind to 
 solve the enigma 'vhi< as, at the moment, 
 occupying his mi\^ Ti. he did, by rather 
 abruptly asking m - i : sir, do you ped- 
 
 dle?" Had Ian- 
 
 •e&," he would then 
 
 have been satisfied ; for few Americans, of the 
 lower class, have any idea that a man may be 
 induced, for any cause (except for the purposes 
 of trade), to speni?, both time and money, in 
 wandering about the world. 
 
 We touched at several places — Plattsburg, 
 Bm-lington, Ticondcroga, and Crown Point. 
 The upper part of the lake contains some large 
 
 I / 
 
 n 
 
lii 
 
 J* I 
 
 ft. 
 
 1 
 \\ 
 
 I' J 
 
 I Ft" 
 
 
 •1 ;:;i!i 
 
 ■i i 
 
 256 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 islands, and was formerly the scene of several 
 naval combats, between the small vessels of 
 war, which then floated on its waters. Now, I 
 believe, there is not even a gun-boat maintained 
 on it, either by the Americans or the English. 
 Tant mieux. At Crown Point, the lake narrows 
 to the width of a mere stream ; and, at White- 
 hall, the width is so slight, that there is not 
 room for the steamer to tu-:n. A warp is thrown 
 out, and the vessel made fast. 
 
 I have before alluded to the charming sce- 
 nery of Lake George and its surrounding hills : 
 therefore, it is not necessary to say more on that 
 subject — though pages of praise would not be 
 misapplied. 
 
 The water communication between Whitehall, 
 and the navigable part of the Hudson River, is 
 kept up by a good canal, which passes through 
 a beautiful, though rather bleak, country. Hav- 
 ing entered the Hudson River, we descended its 
 waters, as far as Troy : whence, I rather sud- 
 denly determined upon retracing my steps, by 
 way of Schenectady, to Saratoga, for the pur- 
 pose of passing a short time at those much- 
 frequented Springs: having a not unnatural wish 
 to see how so business-occupied a people, as the 
 Americans, could possibly pass their time agree- 
 ably in a sort of Neapolitan dolcefar niente. 
 
 It was rather early in the season : yet the 
 
 
 ill. 
 
 L^! 
 
M 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 257 
 
 several 
 isels of 
 Now, I 
 ntained 
 Inglish. 
 larrows 
 White- 
 is not 
 thrown 
 
 ng sce- 
 g hills : 
 on that 
 not be 
 
 itehall, 
 ver, is 
 hrough 
 
 Hav- 
 ded its 
 r sud- 
 ps, by 
 le pur- 
 much- 
 al wish 
 
 as the 
 agree- 
 ite. 
 et the 
 
 ■^j9?" 
 
 
 Hotels were completely full ; and I was com- 
 pelled to procure a bed, in a jmvate house. The 
 Hotels are on the gigantic scale, so customary 
 in the States, and are very numerous. There 
 must, therefore, have been an immense con- 
 course of visitors to fill them so completely, 
 — probably two or three thousand — or possibly 
 more. The greater part of these, were from the 
 Southern States — attracted hither, by the medi- 
 cinal virtues of the Springs, and also to escape 
 the scorch hig summer heats of their own home. 
 If I may judge, however, from the excessive 
 heat which prevailed, during the time I was at 
 Saratoga, they would, this year, not benefit 
 much, from the change of climate, for it was 
 most oppressive. The sandy plain of Wiesbaden 
 is not, in the month of July or August, very 
 cool ; but the heat there, is nothing, to that 
 which I experienced, at Saratoga. 
 
 Most of the large hotels, have well laid-out 
 gardens attached to them ; and the panting 
 visitors to this torrid place, may also enjoy, the 
 inviting shade of rows of well-grown trees, with 
 which the main street of the town is adorned. 
 In the evenings, I was much struck by the free- 
 dom with which ladies, without- bonnets or 
 shawls — in fact, quite in ball-room costume — 
 strolled, up and down, these shady w^alks. There 
 
 appeared to be no restraint — greater freedom, 
 
 li 
 
;!i 
 
 :!;i 
 
 '' I '}'■ 
 
 li'-' 
 
 
 u 
 
 258 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 indeed, tlian I have seen at any Continental 
 Baths, or watering place. Balls, and evening 
 parties, take place almost nightly at the hotels, 
 and the day is, as usual at such places, spent in 
 visiting the many interesting and beautiful 
 spots, which are within a moderate distance of 
 the Springs. There is also a very fair reading- 
 room and library. The table d'hote, at the 
 Congress Hall, was admirably managed, and 
 several hundred persons sat down daily to dis- 
 cuss its merits. It is, of course, impossible that 
 so many people could be congregated, without 
 some few being eccentric and odd ; but, in ge- 
 neral, there was little to challenge criticism : 
 except a rather lounging, sluggish, effete man- 
 ner, induced by the southern habits of most of 
 the visitors to those Springs ; and an occasional 
 attempt at dandyism, with its usual concomi- 
 tant, insipidity of manner, on the j^art of some 
 young man, away from his " store." Consi- 
 dering that, in this miscellaneous concourse, 
 there must have been many who, in other coun- 
 tries, would have possessed few social advan- 
 tages, and could ill spare, both the time and 
 money nocessaiy, for a visit of any length to 
 such a place as Saratoga. I must say, that it is to 
 the credit of the nation, that so little was appa- 
 rent, which could, in any way, offend. I can 
 say, with trutli, tliat I have been much more 
 
itineiital 
 evening 
 e hotels, 
 spent in 
 beautiful 
 stance of 
 reading- 
 at the 
 ^ed, and 
 f to dis- 
 able that 
 without 
 it, in ge- 
 riticism : 
 ete man- 
 most of 
 ccasional 
 concomi- 
 of some 
 Consi- 
 )ncourse,, 
 ler coun- 
 il advan- 
 imc and 
 ength ta 
 at it is to 
 ^as appa- 
 I can 
 ch more 
 
 1 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 259 
 
 annoyed by my own countrymen at the baths 
 in Belgium and Germany, during the months of 
 August and September, than I was at Saratoga. 
 
 The mineral waters arise from various springs; 
 but the *' Congress" spring is the most in re- 
 quest. I thought it refreshing, though nasty. 
 I cannot give an analysis of it ; but there is 
 soda, lime, magnesia, carbonate of iron, and 
 carbonic acid gas, in its composition. It has a 
 tonic effect , and large quantities of it, are sent 
 to many parts of the Union. The bathing houses 
 are also numerous. 
 
 The excessive heat prostrated mo so much, 
 that, in a couple of weeks, I found it necessary 
 to seek a more moderate climate ; and for that 
 purpose, as I have before stated, descended the 
 Hudson river, for the purpose of passing a short 
 time at the '' Mountain House," on the Kaats- 
 kill range of hills : from whence, I proceeded 
 to New York, and took up my quarters for 
 some weeks at the American Hotel, in Broad- 
 way. This hotel, tliougli comparatively small, 
 is as comfortable and well-managed an estab- 
 lishment as any in this city, where gigantic 
 hotels flourish most abundantly. The far-famed 
 *^ Astor House," which, a few years ago, was 
 the largest hotel in the world, except the St. 
 Charles, at New Orleans, is now Quite a dwarf 
 
 by the side of two or three, of its monstrous 
 
 K 2 
 
 li 
 
 r 
 
HI 
 
 
 
 W'\ 
 
 260 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 rivals. The immense size of tlie hotels in tlie 
 cities, and the large towns of Nortli America, is 
 the natur?! consequence of the state of society, 
 and the great difficulty experienced in travelling^ 
 except in certain given directions; for, though 
 the area of the United States is enoraious, Na- 
 ture and man have combined, to throw into a 
 few leading channels, the chief traffic of the coun- 
 try. The enomious rivers and lakes of the in- 
 terior, have been connected by a few railroads 
 and canals, with the populous and highly com- 
 mercial cities, which line the sea-coast. Along 
 these, crowds of people are ever on the move ; 
 but in the intervening districts — often as large 
 as the whole of Great Britain — travelling is so 
 tedious and harassing, that it is cheaper, more 
 expeditious, and far preferable, in every re- 
 spect, to make use of a good circuitous route, 
 though it may add, a hundred, or even a thou- 
 sand miles, to the journey, tl.»an to labour pain- 
 fully along the cross roads, iiv, a direct line, to 
 the destination sought. 
 
 This, therefore, concentrates, as it were, the 
 stream of travel, which flows, in a '' Mississippi" 
 or '^ Missouri" flood, through a few districts, 
 and not in little streamlets, throughout this 
 vast continent. To accommodate this moving 
 mass of beings, large hotels, like soldiers' bar- 
 racks, necessarily spring up. This concentra- 
 
\ ) 
 
 V 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 201 
 
 ; ill tlie 
 rica, is 
 ociety, 
 
 though 
 IS, Na- 
 
 into a 
 e coun- 
 
 the in- 
 lih'oads 
 ly com- 
 
 Aloiig 
 
 move ; 
 vs large 
 ig is so 
 
 , more 
 cry re- 
 I route, 
 ii thou- 
 ir pain- 
 iinc, to 
 
 re, tlie 
 issippi" 
 Lstricts, 
 ut this 
 moving 
 rs' bar- 
 iccntra- 
 
 tion, too, affords an opportunity for thousands 
 of men to travel continually, for the purposes of 
 trade ; (not as with us, as agents for others, and 
 in a given district), but on their own account. 
 They are, as far as my observation goes, a class 
 of traders almost peculiar to the United States. 
 Experience, teaches them the price of everything 
 all over the Union ; and so tliat tlioy can make 
 a profit by the transaction, it is perfectly imma- 
 terial to them what the article purchased may 
 be, or in what direction they must take it, to sell. 
 These persons swarm at the hotels, and pick up 
 most of their bargains, in the '' bar" and 
 smoking rooms, of those establislrnents, which 
 they favour with their residence. They have 
 no settled, fixed abode ; no house of business, 
 or '' store;" but carry with them either credit 
 or capital, and do business as they go — revers- 
 ing, in one sense, most completely, the Old 
 World proverb, '' Of rolling stones not gather- 
 ing moss." Their portmanteaus, or " valises," 
 studded with as many projecting brass or iron 
 knobs, as the door of a jail, in other countries, 
 are scarcely ever out of sight in the leading tho- 
 roughfares. 
 
 In the hot summer months, the citizens of New 
 York have many resorts in the vicinity of the 
 city, to which pleasant excursions can be made ; 
 but it has always appeared to me that dcscrip- 
 
Ml 
 
 2G2 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 tions of such places, on paper, are uninteresting 
 to the general reader, and convey but little 
 positive information. The most frequented, are 
 the Elysian fields, at Hoboken ; Rockaway 
 beach, which is the fashionable watering place ; 
 Staten Island, and the vicinity of '* The Nar- 
 rows," on the opposite shore, at Fort Hamilton, 
 Besides these, Astoria, Flatbush, Flushing, 
 Coney Island, and a host of other places, will 
 call up in the mind of one, familiar with the 
 locality, many agreeable associations. In New 
 York; there are so many persons who have been 
 accustomed to the gaiety and lightheartedness 
 of a Continental life, that this city is, undoubt- 
 edly, the most agreeable in America, with the 
 exception, perhaps, of St. Louis or New Orleans, 
 during the proper season. At Boston, one ac- 
 quires a decided dislike to Puritanism, andlearns 
 to consider a ''blue" lady, a bore; at Phila- 
 delphia, the primness and propriety of the 
 Quakers, and the rectangular construction of 
 their city, are almost painful. Baltimore is a 
 little more South, and, therefore, less straight- 
 laced ; and Washington is, of course, interesting 
 to a traveller, from its being the seat of Govern- 
 ment : though, in itself, a melancholy skeleton. 
 All these cities, except Washington, (which is, 
 as it were, common property), have a decided 
 rivalry ; and this is carried so far, that a Bosto- 
 
 
 
 
NEW YORK. 
 
 2(33 
 
 nian requires some pressing, to induce liim to 
 drink Champagne, simply because it is in uni- 
 versal demand, as a beverage, in New York. 
 These little rivalries are, however, harmless ; 
 because the moment any really national inte- 
 rest is attacked, the Americans, of every State, 
 rally at once round the Flag of their common 
 country. The inhabitant of one State, will 
 abuse the citizen of another ; but let a stranger 
 interfere in their quarrel, and he is certain to 
 share the proverbial fate of a meddler in any 
 dispute between two parties so closely con- 
 nected, as husband and wife. Those who are 
 only superficially acquainted with the state of 
 feeling in the United States, do not sufficiently 
 estimate this national instinct, when a dissolu- 
 tion of the Union, from any cause, is so confi- 
 dently predicted by them. 
 
 I visited, during my stay in New York, on 
 this occasion, the navy yard at Wallabout Bay, 
 between Brooklyn and Williamsburg. It is ex- 
 tensive, but there were no signs of activity. All 
 seemed to stagnate. This is the case with most 
 of the Government Departments in this coun- 
 try, which strike the eye rf an European as 
 very meagre. With us, in England, the dooh- 
 yards are national concerns : whereas, in Ame- 
 rica, almost all the States, bordering the Atlan- 
 tic, have each their navy yard ; and the cons^K 
 
 ii 
 
^ 
 
 I 
 
 U 1 
 ^ i 
 
 i : . 
 
 L 
 
 i ■ 
 
 
 264 
 
 MONTREAL TO 
 
 quence is, that nowhere, either at Boston, New 
 York, Philadelphia, Washington, or Norfolk, m 
 Virginia, will you find an establishment at all 
 commensurate with an Englishman's idea, of 
 what a national dockyard ought to be. The 
 traveller will find no Portsmouth or Devonport 
 on this side of the Atlantic. I have no doubt, 
 however, that, if necessity required it, a very 
 formidable fleet, might soon bo acquired by 
 this energetic people ; for, unlike ^he army, the 
 navy, is held in high esteem. 
 
 While on this subject, I may as well state, 
 that there is one part of the management of the 
 various public departments, in the United 
 States, which we, in England, might copy with 
 advantage. In none of them will you meet 
 with incivility, supercilious hauteur, or the non- 
 chalant affectation, of being above their busi- 
 ness, so common among the staff of public 
 employes, in England. Then, again, you are 
 not kept waiting in an ante-room, until patience 
 is nearly exhausted, before the interview sought, 
 is condescendingly granted. During my stay 
 at Washington, I had occasion to visit several of 
 the public offices in that city ; and I can testify, 
 therefore, from personal experience, to the rea- 
 diness with which each '' Chief Secretary" ad- 
 mitted me to his presence, and the ntter absence 
 of all official pedantry of manner, or s^Deech. It 
 
\ 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 205 
 
 New 
 
 is, perhaps, scarcely neccsbary to say, that I had 
 not the least claim to any special attention. I 
 went, simply as one of the public, seeking infor- 
 mation. 
 
 I do not intend, in this volume, to take the 
 reader through the rather extensive tour made 
 by me in the Southern and Western States ; but 
 before I close the present sketch, I cannot re- 
 frain from a few remarks on the material pros- 
 perity of this country, everywhere apparent. 
 Differences of opinion may exist as to the com- 
 parative advantages of this, or other forms of 
 government, and also, upon the social and moral 
 condition of the people, of the United States ; 
 but there can be none, as to the prosperity in 
 money matters. Through the whole district in 
 which I travelled, I can most truly say, that, 
 except in the north-eastern part of Virginia, no 
 sign ofretrogression was apparent. Everywhere 
 else, rapid progress was evident. It would, 
 indeed, be inexcusable, were it not so ; but the 
 Americans have a right to say, that they have 
 largely and energetically availed themselves of 
 those circumstances, which have combined to 
 make them what they, undoubtedly, are. 
 It is needless, in the present day, to recapitulate 
 these. Deep-thinking and practical, were the 
 early settlers on this virgin soil. Self-reliant 
 and self-depeudent : men whose ideas, on most 
 
 
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 I" n 
 
 l™l 
 
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 II 
 
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 206 
 
 MONTRKAL TO 
 
 su^^jects, were, (notwitlistandiii}^ their preju- 
 dices) far In advance ol' the age in which they 
 lived. Such were the Pilgrim Fathers. The 
 sons of such sires were not likely to degenerate. 
 The experience of ages ( >f civilization guided 
 them in their early career: the Old, did not 
 hamper the New. They started free ; and, 
 thougl) the ad vantages Avliich surrounded them 
 were great, they neglected none. A natural 
 instinct taught them to labour: idleness, was 
 with them, and still is, among their descend- 
 ants, considered a vice ; while, even in the pre- 
 sent day, the compulsory distribution nmong 
 all the children, of the property of their 
 parents, renders the /ruffes consumere nati few. 
 All, therefore, must produce, as well as con- 
 sume. I was much struck everywhere by the 
 large expenditure incurred by all classes of 
 the community. Among the artizans, shop- 
 keepers, and merchants, this is peculiarly the 
 case ; and clearly proves that they must gain 
 largely, to be able to spend so freely. In the 
 Southern States, copper, as a circulating me- 
 dium, is almost, if not entirely, unknown. 
 
 Speaking generall;y , a constitutional irritabi- 
 lity of temperament, prevents the Americans 
 from remaining long contented, in any given 
 position. They must strive to be richer than 
 they are: the highest step of their ladder is 
 
 » 
 
NEW YOnK. 
 
 207 
 
 gam 
 
 
 nevt r gained. Ho who is most in esteem, is he 
 who has amassed most wealth. There is no 
 disgrace in trade, and consoquently no chock 
 imposed by society, on its rapid development. 
 Happily, we, in England, an fast acquiring the 
 same sensible feeling ; the < 5' li-ieand there, in 
 the country districts, tlu, c ■ rKshioned preju- 
 dice still lingers, among the landed proprietors ; 
 but, when that last strong; old has been carried, 
 it will be a thing of the past, even with us. As, 
 however, there is no good, without some accom- 
 panying drawback, this universal pursuit of 
 gain, does undoubtedly bring into undue promi- 
 nence certain qualities of the mind w hich might, 
 with advantage, be kept more und( r restraint. 
 Still, in a country, which, though'not new in 
 the race of life, is still more or less in a ti nsi- 
 tion state, where the collective, as well as each 
 individual mind, can at once find scope, acti- 
 vity, (even if it be, rather restless and obtrusive,) 
 is more calculated to develope its resources, than 
 a steady, plodding, matter-of-fact temperament. 
 In America, but little time is spent, on educa- 
 tion, or apprenticeship. The boy of fifteen, 
 thinks he ought, and generally does, earn 
 money ; and a couple of years, passed in preli- 
 minary study, qualifies for any of the learned 
 professions. If, therefore, a young man finds, 
 upon experience, that he has mistaken his career 
 
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 MONTREAL TO 
 
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 in life, there are few checks to prevent his quit- 
 ting it for another, for which he either is, or 
 imagines himself to be, more adapted. In Eng- 
 land, it may be said that when once a profession 
 is embraced, to adopt another is next to impos- 
 sible. Years must pass, and much money be 
 spent, before the result desired, can be attained. 
 It is possible that in America, the standard of 
 qualification in each profession, may suifer from 
 this laxity ; but I am not aware that, as a class, 
 professional men are found not to be pares 
 negotiis. At any rate, the path of life is ren- 
 dered much less difficult. Few, therefore, fail, 
 in some career, at present, because there is 
 room, and freedom for all ; though, doi:btless, 
 when the whole of this vast continent becomes 
 as thickly inhabited as Europe, ahigher standard 
 will be required to ensure success, as the per- 
 sonal competition, will be greater. 
 
 To me, this universal prosperity, was, I must 
 confess, most gratifying ; and I envy not the 
 man who could pass many months among a 
 community so situated, without a keen sensation 
 of pleasure. Faults they possess, no doubt — 
 some of which, are patent enough ; and the 
 generality of travellers have not forgotten to 
 point them out ; but have apparently taken a 
 malicious pleasure in holding up to the ridicule 
 of their readers, every little eccentricity, sole- 
 
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NEW YORK. 
 
 269 
 
 lis quit- 
 p is, or 
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 jfession 
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 ►ney be 
 tained. 
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 3r from 
 a class, 
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 is ren- 
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 :btless, 
 3comes 
 mdard 
 le per- 
 
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 cism, and social, or political, failing. The can- 
 did, impartial, unprejudiced man, on the con- 
 trary, must admit, that, in this country and its 
 inhabitants, there is much, both to praise and 
 admire. He, will say, that a fertile soil has not 
 engendered sloth ; immense rivers have not been 
 allowed to flow in vain; abundance, has not 
 made them reckless of opportunity; material 
 resources of unbounded extent have been deve- 
 loped ; and the utmost personal freedom, has 
 rarely been allowed to degenerate into license. 
 There may be evil days in store for this coun- 
 try, and its inhabitants. Diverse interests, or a 
 too extensive territor}^, may sever the Union ; 
 the freedom of a Republic, may be supplanted 
 by the iron rule of a Despot. These, and other 
 changes, have often been predicted by those, 
 whose prejudices are shocked, by the spectacle 
 of a great Republic, prosperous and contented, 
 and gradually, but surely, gaining for itself, the 
 respect — if not the admiration — of the world. 
 Happily, the time has not yet come when the 
 truth of these predictions has been verified ; and 
 I cannot close this sketch, without expressing a 
 fervent hope, that the biting poverty, and 
 wretchedness — the shocking contrasts — tlie revo- 
 lutions and proscriptions, and the curse of irre- 
 sjionsible power — only too common, in some 
 parts of Europe — may long be averted from a 
 
 I 
 
270 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 nation, in whom every Englishman must recog- 
 nize, the chief characteristics of his own race. 
 
 :ti 
 
 :*ii 
 
 There are so many different modes of reach- 
 ing Boston from New York : each offering some 
 peculiar attractions, that the traveller finds 
 some difficulty in selecting by which he will 
 proceed. All are good,' speedy, and cheap. 
 The capital of Massachusetts is, like most large 
 cities on the Atlantis coast of America, almost 
 surrounded by water. It stands on a peninsula 
 about three miles long, and is connected with 
 the main land by a very narrow strip. Bridges 
 connect the city with some of its various suburbs, 
 and steam ferry boats ply constantly across the 
 water to East Boston. The various railways 
 are (as is usual in America) brought into the 
 very heart of the town : and there ar i less 
 than six of these, carried across the Charles 
 River, and South Boston Bay. Boston is a neat 
 city ; and, in some parts, looks quite venerable. 
 The inhabitants think it faultless ; but a stranger 
 will, perhaps, hesitate a little before giving in 
 his adherence to that opinion. The associations 
 connected with the city and its vicinity invest 
 it with an interest. The Bunker Hill Monu- 
 ment ib situated in Charlestown, and is, by no 
 means, elegant : in fact, it is merely a tall, 
 
} ■ 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 271 
 
 iiust recog- 
 wn race. 
 
 3 of reach- 
 jringsome 
 ller finds 
 h he will 
 id cheap, 
 nost large 
 ia, almost 
 peninsula 
 cted with 
 
 Bridges 
 
 i suburbs, 
 
 cross the 
 
 railways 
 
 into the 
 
 i less 
 
 Charles 
 is a neat 
 3nerable. 
 stranger 
 iving in 
 Dciations 
 y invest 
 11 Monu- 
 3, by no 
 
 a tall, 
 
 ]■ 
 
 ( 
 
 s 
 
 square tower, without grace or beauty, of any 
 kind. Few places differ more than do New 
 York and Boston — not only externally, but in 
 the tone of society. In the former place, it is 
 rather the fashion to affect a dissipated manner 
 and tone: whereas, in Boston, there is still 
 cherished a rather stern, unyielding character ; 
 the natural result of the immediate descent from 
 the Non- conformist ancestors, who founded the 
 city. The Anglo-Saxon element is peculiarly 
 strong in Boston : the original English type, is 
 less modified there, than in other parts of the 
 Union. An Englishmaii, therefore, ought to 
 speak of Boston with respect. It is not a gay 
 city, but solid, substantial, sober, and grave. 
 
 I left America, for Liverpool, in the early 
 part of August ; and, after a rapid and agree- 
 able passage, made the entrance to the Mersey 
 on the eleventh day. On passing the Welsh 
 mountains, tlie view was magnificent; but, 
 during the night, a dense fog came on ; and, 
 though it was the height of summer, we ran up 
 the Mersey without seeing a single object. It 
 was an inhospitable welcome to one's native 
 land, after an absence of two years. We made 
 the best of our way to an hotel, in Dale-street. 
 The contrast it presented to similar buildings, 
 in America, was not at all gratifying. Every 
 thing was small, dingy, and mean. Then, 
 
 1 1 
 
If 
 
 !' II 
 
 w 
 
 272 
 
 t^ 
 
 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 again, the people in the streets, looked poverty- 
 stricken and wretched. I cannot help saying, 
 that I saw, in Liverpool, more miserable-looking 
 objects than during the two years, I had spent in 
 America. I am quite aware, of course, that 
 a large seaport, like Liverpool, is not a fair 
 representation of my own country ; but I can 
 assure the reader, that the remarks made upon 
 the place and its inhabitants, by my American 
 fellow -passengers, were far from complimen- 
 tary ; and they were all the more painful to me, 
 as I could not help acknowledging their cor- 
 rectness. The place is not calculated to make a 
 favourable impression upon a traveller ; and I 
 was very glad to find myself gliding along the 
 North- Western Railway, at the rate of thirty 
 miles, an hour, past the green meadows, the 
 trim hedges, and clean farm-houses of the rural 
 districts. There, I could point out objects, with 
 pride ; and listen to the commendation of my 
 fellow-travellers, with pleasure. 
 
 n.^<r<^^<$^(Syt)^S>o^ 
 
 Printed by '\Vnllcr Mouckton, 11, King-street, Maidstone. 
 
poverty- 
 saying, 
 i-looking 
 spent in 
 se, that 
 t a fair 
 ut I can 
 ,de upon 
 merican 
 iplimen- 
 l1 to me, 
 leir cor- 
 make a 
 ; and I 
 ong the 
 f thirty 
 ws, the 
 he rural 
 is, with 
 of my 
 
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