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"/ -J" ^•.■c'-l ■"•>^) i.i;'" .1. *~^^ . ^_ , :":;::^y ..■•'■;v:;i-'::;;::.^^^ ^ ;? ■ r'K!";2S?;:^--:;r:^,....;;;;.^i.- «i ...OU«^ IS LAN I, / '%. '-., \ ^ i? ,'v K N 1 N' s r I. •''^ N. ,■ /'.V''"" lyiii''}' '^^^x-r ^/ SVii/iiiy,' /'/i ^pi»* /<.ii- ■" rwiir " ^ii'i'wwn, "^^■' JMT West llAUrKK \ nHOTIIKKS NFAVYOUK ,.'. Bri'i??" N. X H ^ .^' »•' ^}^^ »■ ^\^'V»',.<^ ,,-»' ^VV ..(\- I'" N /'.inis /'■'"'''' ( o.^-";^^ '^^^ ^J'^/' >' \ I jVnvv ,^H. IMMI www i ( I n n436 •|<> IIIK |- passai;!; FKo.M ■ii|[.; A'J'LANTIC To TJJE l'A( IFIC, AN-D KOU T-IK ADVAN-Ci^M KN r ny s,,':i:NVE ANU OEuviKAi'lI v. AMI WHO, RV TiiKIR l.KVOTKI. ZKAI., .OIKA,.,:, \M, l.-nilTITII.i;, Hash .SL'J-I'(tl;||;|) TIIK lUiill IHAKACTKU Of THIS KKCOKO C.. TKnnon. I>U'har(l Ci-uziri, Captain. Kil. Littir, ^ ','',"• !'■ "•"''■'•-on, U,i,.ut,-nant.s. Fi-filrrir Udi-niiv, ) ., JuihiTt Tlioiiia-' I Mates, 'nunnas lilatik.v, I,v .Master ''.A. .Maeh.aii, .S'etind .Master i';'"' ■"■, •' , Hu.-e„„. Alex.M-.„nal,l,A,..-ist.S,u-.^eon. •'■ "• ••I'liniiMii, Clrrk in Charire. U AVarraiit ami I'eftv ()llicef.s •>7_fcoanien and Muriiies. (id Total. H. 1'. Collins. Second Mn-ter. ^tejihen S. Stanley, Suruvi.n. ^1. n. (.uodsir. Assistant .^iirL'eon. _JMiiiea Read, Jcc Master. 1^ Warrant and J'etty Otlicerg. oH_>eiuijiu and Marines. 70 Total. In rocordin.^ the nam.s of the above menti.me.l officer, thoso ^ I'REFACE, .li.sposition, he has made hhnsdf a universal favorite i„ the naw an.l I a,u iuost haj.py to a.M that, in his ah.sonce, the lioard of A. m.ra ty have promoted hi,„ to the rank of Caj.tain. Lieutc^l- ant (,rahan. Gore served in the last fearful voyage of the Ter^o • CONTENTS. Preface . . . I'as" V CHArTER I. ''Z.nuJ^tI::PZA:' ^^^'--^^^""N^rthwest Passage Irorn tho CIJAPTKR If. COMMANDER JOHN ROSS «wO CHAPTER IIJ. CAPTAIN DAVID DUCIIAN 41) CHAPTER IV. riEUTEVANT PARRV'S FIRST VOYAGE CHAPTER V. CLAVERING AND SABINE, tojuni the Llhpucity ol the EartJi, by Hwind,,,^ tLc Pendulum . "j4 CHAPTER VI. COMMANDER PARHY's SECOND VOYAGE u^^ Ji;;;ii':;ui iS;;;.;^:!':''':"""' "^' ':"'^ ':"'^":'^'? '"■"'T"ri07 CHAPTER VII. CAPTAIN GEORGE LYON, fn tho Gripor— Procordcl up Hudson's Strait Fox's rinnjicl tl.o \V«i '"m.-t-nabl.,- to reach Kqn.l.. Pay-R^turu!.,! ' ' ''." Mr^ xu CONTENTS. f'TTAI'TKll Vni. CAPTAIN rAllRYS TIIIUD VOYAGE, In thn 'llrc\n nnd Fury — rrorcodnl up Davie'H Stniit nnd TUiUin's I'.ny into Liiiiciisti r Sound luid I'rince liff;fnt'd Inlet, wlicre tlic I'ury wim wri'i'kL'iJ, and ho rctuna'ii I'ago l(i(J CHAPTER IX. CAPTAIN PAIUIV'S FOrRTH VOYAGE, In tlip TIpcIji — Aa i'lir as SjiitzhiTircn — Tlicnco in tlii^ Ronts townrd tlio Nortli I'olii — llciK.'licd niMirly tliu ti'M d('i,Tt'o of liitituilf, and rr- tunied l'J7 CHAPTER X. FllANKLIN AND RICUAnDSOV. Joumny through North Anirrica to th(! Polar Sen, and along the const I'roui Copper Mine River to Point Tuni-iiguin SW.) CHAPTER XI. FRANKLIN AND RICHARDSON. Second .Tourney to the I'olar >^i'n, to the Mackenzie River, thence west- ward to tiie Ui'turn CUtl', and eastward to the Copper Mine Jiiver 5i7'J CHAPTER XII. back's JOURNEY Thnnicli Nortli America — Down a ISiver not before naviunted hy Euro- pcanH to itri J'lstuai'y on tlu; I'olar .Sea — lioth now known hy the name of Back ;u;{ CHAPTER XIII. back's voyage Townrd Repulse Rny — Shut up in the Ice, and floated on the Ice in the midst of the Ocean off the east coast of Southampton Island nearly n whole your fiiiU CHAPTER XIV. MISCELLANEOUS. 1. Cnpt. .Tohn ]{oss'g Second Voyage, in a Merchant Vessel. 2. Select ('omniittef- of th(> H()US(> of (Commons on that Voyaffe. 'J. Discoveries on the South (Joast of the Polar Sea. Hy Mr. Thoma.s Simpson LfM DIRECTIONS FOR PLAC1N3 TIIE MAPS. Chart of Simpson's Strait, t(j fact; paijc '358, tieneral Polur Cliart and the Arctic Reijions, at the end. f .;^ — »- ARUTIC VOYAGES. * h ^" « r < - i'; W Sir u T. S^.* .> CHAPTKIl I. IiNTRODLCTIUN. So niiich lias lu-cii siiid on tlio subject nf a norlliwivsf piissa;j,o tVom tlin Atliiiitic to tlio Pacific, aixl so many ciTontMiu.s notions Imvo been afloat concerninf^ it, that I (IfciM it projx'i-, hy way of introdtictioii, to account for tlio recent revival of the iifteinpts to discover if. "Ainoiii; the chanjies ami vicissitudes to which the jiiiysical constitution of our ^lobo is pjM'petually subject, out? of the most extraonlinary, and fnun whidi the most iiitei stiiii^ and important results may be aiiticiputcMl, ap- j)eais to hav(f taken place in the coursci of the lust two or three years, and is still in proi,'ressiv(< operation. Tlie convulsion of an eurtli(piake, and the eruption of ii volca- no, forci* themselves into notice by the tlismay and dev- astation with which, in a greater or less (l»'i;ree, they are almost always attended ; but the ('veiit to which we al- Iiidt^ has biM'ii so (juietly accomplished, that it inii,dit have remained unknown but t'or an extra(»rdinary chiin,i;e which a few intelligent nuvijL^ators remarkcsd in the stato of tli<5 Arctic ice, and the rcjptnts of the unusual quantities of this ice observed in tht^ Atlantic." The extract here quoted must, 1 beliovo, bo laid at my door. Tim ovent alludcul to was the disappearance of the whole, or f^reatcM' j)art, of th(^ vast barrier of ice which for a lonjf j)eriod of tinus perhaps for centuries, was supposed to have maintained its lirm-rooted position on the eastern coast of Old (iretMiIand ; and its reappear- ance in a mor(? southei-nly latitude, where it was met with, as was attested by various persons worthy of credit, in the years 1H1.')-1() and 17 ; liy ships comin^f from tJie Kiisi Indies and America; by others jjoiiiii to Halifax and Xevvfuimdhmd ; and in dilferetit parts of" the Atlantic, us far down as the lOtli i)ar.s ot' iccltinil, and tillini; all tlio bayfl and n'(M-ks of that island ; and that this atlhrtini; vi>itation \vas repeated in I^IT — <;ircnnistanfes liitherto unknown to the oldest inhaiiitant. .\lM)Ut tho saitu) tiino, tho whalo sliips that tVf'(|nented the tisherv in J)avis's Straits, and the I ludson's l»ay trad- ers, experienced an unnsnul tnunljer of icel»er;;s ami JariTo lloes of ico driftiiii,' to tin' southward down tho straits atid alons^ thn roast of Lahrador, and past New- foundland ; yot as to a rertaiti extent those nuisses of ice w»!re of fre(|uent occuirenco in these (juartei's, and occasioindly met with in tin; Atlantic, it was those from the eastward tiiat attracted particular notice. Whatever tlu' cause niny have heen for the disruption of this iniMU'iise harrier of ice from the eastern c()ast of (li'eeiiland, whether by its own w«.'ii;lit after centuries of accumulation, or tVom the partial disi-up'.on of the coast itstdf, tiu! fact is mupn-stionahle ; and iln5 notorit!- ty of it iiivon in tlio several journals of Kiirope, and moro especially in tiioso of England, corroborated by various ])rivate communications, was anion;:; tiie circumstaiu-es which, combined with others. j;ave rise to tlie revival (»f thos(5 voyages of discovery for attemptinj^ a ))asMai; the inidertakiuir were l)r()ut.dit to llnt^'land by oiu* whale sliips; and as it has jzeiu'rally bajipetu-d in this couiitiy that sonio inilividaal, more saii^'uiiie tlian the rest of the coiiiimuiity, has, by his sui)erior knowledue, ^'reater exi'rtidiis, or more (•(iMstaiit [terseveiaiici', succcfMlcd in briiii/ini,' a project to bear, wliicli, ill less vigdroiis or pertinacious hands, wdiild have been siift'ered to die away, this t'a\(irablr <-lianL'e was turned to so iiDud an aci-ount by an intliicntial ineriiber of the l'<"V- '■nimcnt, and whu.Sv? uuiiio is inseparable from northern dis- Hi INTRODUCTION. c'overy, that, in the lollowijij:; year, hi.s MajoHty Georpo IV., then I'riucc! Ki'L'fJil, was pli-ant'd to ((jiiuiiaiKl lliat atteiiiptrt bhoiilil be mado to n-acli the J'acilic, huth hy the westei-a route through Bafliu's Bay, and by a northern ujurbe acrosn the J'ole."* It would ho ridiculously scjueaniisl) to allect ignorauro to wliom tlio couipJiiiHMit in tlio nhovo j)a.s.sajfo is meant to iipply, and llii'. more so as, on the vvliole, it is truu. J am fully prepared lo admit that part which relates to thk', " Hauf^uini^ individual"' who succc^eded hy " exer- ticnis" and " persmeraiiee" in hrinifiui;; tin^ project to bear — u project which, like most oth«;rs tlnit are lunv and not well understood, could not, and thereloro did not, . ^ood fortune to meet with every encoura^enu-nt from an ahio coadjutor, one ever I'eady to hold out a helpiuti hand wluui the promotion oi' scienc*^ and jfeneriil knowledgo was the object. This patron was .Sir Joseph JJaid^s. 15ei'ore. thereibro, 1 submitted any proposal to Ijord 31elville, which I knew would bo referred to tlu! Presi- dent and Council of tiie Jloyal Society, as a'ivoyajfes ot* discovery connecttul with science were, I tliouiiht it riiiht to take tln^ |)r(^sident's opinion as to tin; effei't of the changes rt>|)orte(l to have occurred in the northern reiiions, in whicli I was awarc> he tctok a particular inter- est, havinjj; himself, in early life, visited Iceland and climbed to the top of Mount Hechi ; uud as he knew ■^ Bi'(>c!i«\v's Voynt'o toward tho North I'olf. t CLu'uuuioijiciil History ol' VujUg'ea uilo tho Arctic liegiuu3, iVc. INTUODUCTIOX. 17 lorpo IV., . ulleiMiitrt 3 VVUrtUTU guonuH-o is nieaiil it is tiiio. rt-lates to y " oxcr- |)r()j«H;t t(i [) Ill'W U«»<1 J (lid not, ill-iiiiUVed , iiiodit Hill liil, iauda- >\vt'v» r, lo •in Irotittul r iiil'i)naii- ot' our old dsou's Uiiy 'd riMiiiiiks us H«'iiriio itiiiu'd wiis th«-' recent llic trood till an al)to lll)iiiii luind ll^llo\vlo(lJ;t^ pli IJanUs. Ill to Lord tho Prt'si- voya^es of thouiilit it |o ollect ol' It"! iiortlioni ular intcr- ct'land and Is \w know liuus, A;c. tliat i liad also, in rarly lif«\ i)aid a visit to tlio Spit/.lu'r- i;('ii sciLS. as lii^di as llakluyt's llcnidiand, near tli»^ HOtli piirallt'l, I was sure of encauinji; liis atttMition on the snl)- jcct, and was not (lisapj)oint<'d, \\f cntirriy a|)prov«Ml ot'tlic ronrwal ot"att«Mnpts to acconi])lisli a }irand object wliicli tor tliroo centuries had, at dilterent times, occu- pied the attention of our soven'iuns, pliiiosopliers, men of '^^(•ieiice, and merdiatits ; and ho |)roiiiis(>d to look over and jj;ive ine any int'ormation that his own correspondcnco niij^lit furnisli : " 1 may he able," he said, " to niimo those from whom you may receive, and btxtks from which you may derive thc^ information you are in ; yet not rvia \\ hioLTiiijliical i-ki'trh tliiit I know of hiiH htyii putiUshi-d. I.ci Sir lldwitrd Kniitchbull tmd tho person to whom hi- gave tho mulcrialri look io this. 18 I.VTKODULTIUN. of liny iMilnuico iitlo tlio Polnr Scu from this side of Amoricii. All tliiit ^\as known on tlio lir.st uftcinpt, ^\ liicli liiirohiini;'s Strait, and that llcarno and .Mao kon/ir, two North Aniei'ican travrlors, had arrived at, llie northeiii shore of North America, at ditrerenf |)(»ints and at dili'eien; times, and rei)orted, sonunvhat donbting, that they liad se«Mi the sea. Krom these circumstanci's, and, more pailiculai'iy, from the undoidded anthorities I luid sncceeded in col- lectinii, it was (|nile clear that a current was constantly I'onnd setting i!s ((f the i'acil.c and the northei'n Atlantic; that the water bu|)|)lied through the Stiait of Hehring (a Avell-established fact) into tli(> Polar Sea was dischai'ged, J»y sv'tne ((pening oi* other yet to he discovered, into tlui Atlantic. The " Kdinhurgli Kciview." however, tnivned into ridicuk^ the idea of a Polar Hasin : and otluM's en- deavored to show t!iat, if these currents existed, they must he very temporary or occasional, as they would othorwis(> drain tiiis Polar IJasin of its water. It may be wortli the whiltN now that tlie shoics of lliis Polar Sea liave been visited and surveyed, one part of tliem by our own navigator's, and tlio Asiatic })art by the indel"atigai)le Haron Wrangel and others, to show to these would-be-wise gentlemen wiiat that sea really is — what are its inpourings, its outpourings, and its di- mensions. In thi^ lirst place, it is an imnu'iise basin of water, included by th(> shores of Asia, of Kurope, and of Aim^vica. Of Asia, from Nova Zembla, in .'}U° K, long"., to Kast Cape in iUdiring's Strait, in 170" A\''. long". ; tliat is. 111) extent of coast. In Europe, from Nova Zembla, in .')0 ^ K.. to JJaditi's l>ay, about 7U^ W., an extent of coast etpial to I'JO ' ; and in America, from the last point, 70^ W., to Cape Prince of Wales, Ifib'^ W., in Behriiig's Strait, an extent of coast equal to 100°. '^riiese, including the o])ening of IJehring's Strait ajid that between (Jroenlaiid and t^pitzbergen, comprise tho I.V'I'KOIJLH I'loN. 10 in HUU' of t attempt, INiIiir Scii looked lit and Miio iirrived at rent points ; doubting, irticiiliirly, led ill eol- coiisiiiiitly lit of llnd- heriieii, all reintiiii on liratioii lie- w Atlantic ; nelirini; (a liscliar^ed, mI, into tlio vov, turned otlicM's en- listed, tliey ley would slioi'es of one j)art ic part lr lialf .' The answer is easy ene:;^rli — . they failed by des(M"ting thi^ direct path, tiiat gave them half the passage toward J}»diring's Strait, and tried vii- rioiis new ways in search of openings intotln^ l*olarSea, and found but one other on the whole eastern coast of America, and that one not navigable. Tim old routt; of Parry through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, as far as to the last land on its southern shore, and tlnuice, ill a direct line, to IJehring's Strait, is tlio routo ordered to be pursued by Franklin. Hut it may also be asked, as it lias been asked by some of that class known by the name of Utilitarians, rui hmio are those northern voyages undtMtaken ? If tliey w«Me nieroly to bo prosecuted for tlio sake of inakiiiLj, a passago 20 IN'TIIODUCTIOX. from Engliuid to C'liiiia, and for no otlier purpose, their utility Jiiiylit fjiirly ha (jiu'stioned. JJut when the actjui- sitioii ot knowlediio is the ^roiiiidwork of all tin; iustnio tioiiH uiidtM" wliich tlioy lire soiit forth: when iho coiii- maiidiiiii offu'er is dinicfed to cause constant obsei'vatioiis to 1)0 niado ior the adviMiceiiient ot" every branch ot" sci- (!nce — astronomy, navijj;ation, hydrography, meteoi-(jlo- 'fiy, including electricity and mafinetism, and to make col- lections of subjects in natural history — in short, to lose no opportunity of ac(|uiriny new and important informa- tion and discovery ; and when it is considered that these voyajr(^s give employment to olficfM's and men in time uf pejice, and product; officers and men not to be sur- j:;issed, |)erhaps not equalled, in any other branch of iho tcrvice, the question nd buno is (easily answered in the ^■. ords of the minister of Queen Elizabeth, " Knowledc;o IS Power," tluj truth of wliich was practically demon- strated to the grumblers cif that day by the fdlowing re- sults. Sir Humphrey Gilbert, in consequence of his grant of the Island of Newfoundland, made a voyage; thither, on his return from which he nobly perished ; but his knowl- edge did not perish with him: it laid tin? foundation of that valuat)le cod-fishery which still exists. Davis, by the discovery of the strait tiifit bears his nanus opivied the way to tin; whah;-tisheiy, which still continues to f^-,x nsh ; and Frobisher pointed oui the strait which con- ducted Hudson to the bay that bears his name, and which gave rise to the establishment of a company of mer- chants, whose concerns are of such an extensive nature as to bo earned on across the whole continent of Amer- ica, and to the very shores of the Polar Sea ; and al- ready, in our time, the opening of Lancaster Sound by Parry has extended vhe whale-fishery into that sound. But the knowledge that has resulted from these later voyages is not loss valuable, less durable, or more evan- escent, nor can it be too highly appreciated. Let any one cast an eye only over the best charts of the north- ern regions, previous to the recent Arctic expeditions, und compare them wiiii what they now are. Let him inquire what was then known or described of that Po- lar sea, or indeed of tho whole northern shore of the INTRODUCTIOIV. 21 )sp, their K* a('(jui- > iii.struo tlie com- (irvatioiis :li of sci- otcorolo- iiako col- t, to lose iiitoniiii- ;iiit tlie.so I in time I) be sur- ch of tlio ed in tlio lowlediio y^ (li'inoii- jwing ro- s jjrunt of iiithcr, oil lis knowl- liitioii of Davis, by ', opened tiiivies to liicli ron- id wliich of nier- o nature f Anier- und al- ound by sound. lese later re evan- Let any e north- ditions, et hiui hut Po- of the Americiiii confinont, and the answer will be, a blank; wliich, howj'ver, \w will now tiiid tilled up. lift liim ask what was the value or amount of the peogiaphiral and physical knowlcnlfio then possessed of the rejiions of the filobe within the Arctic circle, and the reply would be, little or nothina;; wlu-reas the objects of Nature which the late voyages have furnished to the JJritish iMuseuin and other depositories are numerous and nov- el. Let any one turn over that extraordinary collection of eniiraviiiffs and descriptions of subjects in every de- ])artment of natural history, iilling up no less than four large quarto volumes, whose general titles are as under: 1. The Fdinui Borcali-Aincricana. — Quadrupeds; 2. Thf Fduna lioretili-Amcricand. — liinls; 3. The Fftuna lioreali-Anwricdna. — Fishes; 4. The Fauna Boreali- Americana. — Insects; containing from three to five hundred jiages each, and all brought forw^ard by, and under the superintendenco of, J)r. Kichardson, the fellow -traveler of Sir John Franklin, and the man to whose energy, courage, and skill Sir John has declared that he and the whole ])arty owe their safety and their lives. Let these accession.^ to general knowledge have only their due weight, unci they will then bo duly appreciated. '^riie value of the scijuitific observations and discover- ies niadc^ in these Arctic voyages, independent of all nu- tiotial and selfish considerations, is duly appreciated on the continent of Europe and in Am(>rica. It is, perhaps, not generally known that the late voyage toward tho South Pole, under the command of Captain (now Sir James) Ross, had no other object but the advRn<'e- meiit of science and general information regarding the Antarctic regions of tlie globe ; and that among the first .subjects to be attended to was that of making a series of observations on terrestrial magnetism, a subject which has of late years assumed so important a character, by its inlluence on the globe, that tlie government of Great Britain, ever ready to take the lead in matters connected with science, has been induced to establisli magnetic ob- servatories in several of its colonies, distant from each orher ; and, by influence and example, has prevailed on other powers to do tlie same, the object being to conduct '}»> IXTUODUCTION. siiTinltiMK'Dns (thscrviilioiis. nl i^iviMi stiiU'd tiiii('><, in nil (if tlifiti. Tliosc ot (Irt'iit I'nlaiii !ii"t« sent to lii»'iit«'ii!iiil- cnloiit'l Siil)liu'. who liiis UiMilly nmlcrliiUcii to rc;orvico .' Mis rc|)ly was, "• That ho has no hos- itation in sayinu that tlio iitt«Mii|)t to inaUc tho iiorthwost, jiassaiio would rondor tho most important service that, now remains to he perlonned toward the conipletion of the niaanelic snrv(\v ol" the ylohe." I shall only add her«> that tht^ President and ( 'ouncil of the Ivoyal Society, Sir Kdward I'arry. and Captain Heanl'ort siroiiiily ap- ])rov»< of the! (»\istiiiu. and perhaps the last, attem|)t t(» maUe the passaiic fhroiiiih tho Polar Sea into the Pa- eitie. IJiil what says Sir John Ih'isclud, when speak- iiiij of the atmospheric pressun? in cold climates .' '* 'I'his, with the niai:iu>li(" survey ottlu^ Arctic seas, and tin* not, iniproliahle solution ot" the jxreat f;eoi;raphical prohh'iii w Inch t'oniis the chief ohject of the expedition, will fur- nish a sufficiiMit answer to those, if any tli<'r(» ho, who n^- puil such voyaut's as useless. Jjot us hope and pray that it may please Providence to shield him (Kranklin) and his l»rav(» companions from tho many danuers of their enterprise, and restore them in healtii and honor to their country."' To those who are disposed to donht tho expediency, "if any ther»» be." of tho jjresent voyage under Sir John l-'ranUlin. I shall stale onc! additional motive for Imviiii; adopted it. which is this: that t;) have ahundoutMl any farther attempt to fulfill an object which has iievi'r ceased to occupy the uttontion of tho liritish govornment since the days of our Kli/.abeth, and more especially, at this particular time, to have let"t it to be completed by a for- t'iiiii navy, at'ter tho doors of tho two extremities of tho passage had been thrown open by tho ships of our own, would have been little short of an act of national suicide* ; or, to say tin* least of it. an ci^reiiiiuis \nvvo of national folly. In personal courage the British navy has long held * 'l"hc (iliHt'vviitidiis iii!i(t(' nt Tornnto liiwo already l)orn n^hiccil unj piintiil \\i\h im HiliiiiiJ.uK ami wrllwrittcn pri'l'iiCL' by the (.'oloiu'l. IVTUODI'CTIOX. O.T i, in nil of Mll»'ll!lllt- I) rrdiict* lition WHS • miiyiH't- c^istcrcd I'S. Wdlllll IS Il(» lics- Kirtliwcst [•vicr I hilt, )l('ti»tii ot 11(1(1 lien) Society. Dii^ly iip- tt('iii|)t t(» > tlic I'll- I'li spciik- f -Tliis, 1(1 the not I proliltMii , will tiir- », wilt) rc- HM(1 pray ''raiiUliii) s ot" thoir honor to '(liciicy. Sir John tinviiii; lied any r coasod ■nt sinco , at tliis )y a tor- 's ot" iho iiir own, suicide ; national oni^ held ■ilnci'il and loiU'l. n iiroiid pre (Mninertce in time of war, and nnnihers of lier iillicers have no less distiiiynished themselves, in tniies of" peace, tor moral courage and mental t"i»rtitnde. It would, thei-eti>re, have lieen an nnpardonaltle omission f I have snlleriMl any paltry tlnancial considerations t<» li;i\e iiilerl'ere(l with the employment ot" a conple ot" Miiall harks tor the attainment ot' an ohjecM of snch im- portance. Let those, then, who may he disposed to (|U»rrel with the existini; expeilitioii on tln^ score of expense, he as- sm'( had hoij;nn hut shrnnk from complot- iiii;. This is no chimera. M^lnt shortest passant? foi* any of the iKMnewai-d-honnd ships of these two powers now in tli»' I'acilic is thron^h tim Polar Scmi. I'ranklin is now on his v()yat!;e, and wliothor lio snc- <'eeds in nntkinu ijood the pHssajji;e or not, nothing, I inn most oei'tain, will l)e wantiiii; on his part, or on that of his gallant oonn'ades, to accom|)lisli all that human means and human intellect can connmmd. In the sentiments with which this hrave, veteran seannm closes the luu'ra- live ot" his second Polar voyai;*^ 1 most cordially concur, ;is I am inclined to think most of those who read it will likewise^ do : •• Arctic (iiscovciy has hcca fostered |)rii)cipally hy Hreat Uiit.iiii; iiiiti it is :i siilijcct of just pride that it has heen pros- ecuted hv her from motives as disinterested as tliey are en- hL'htened ; not from any prospect of inunediate Iteiielif to lierselt, hilt from a steady view to tlie ac(|(iirenieiit of iisehil Iviiowlcdi,'!'. and the extension ot" tlu? hounds of science. I'.acli succeeding' attenipt has added a stej) toward the com- pletinn of niu'tiu.'ni i,'eo^'raphy ; and tiie ciitions to nat- ural histoi-\- and science have excited a i.'eneral interest thr()Ui:lioii1 the civili/.i'd world. It is, moreover, plea.-itii]^ tu I'cilcct that the loss ol life wiiich has ociurred in tlie prose- cution of thes(> discM)veries does not exceeage of future history will undoubtedly record them as eveiy way worthy of a |X)werful, a virtuous, and an enlightened nation." — V. 186. f COMMANDER JOHN ROSS ii5 t vent, or, fit of Aiiicric'i iiiMjis, and tlit> Asiatic ily iiitrrvals and AiiK.'ri- n, wliich 1 A' whfitev- in^' honest r Edward ;o into tlio solving this matter of 2 if any la- 1 neccssaiy lliO KUCCl'H.S ^y should I It still fall id may sho led to con- note, with nterpritics, o honor to they fail: t of evpiy re histoiy )rthv of H -P/18G\ CIIAPTKR II. C03IMAADER JOHN ROSS. 1818. A Voyncrc of Discovery in his Majrsfy's ships Isahdla and A/exonJerjor the purpose of exploring Buffin's Bay and mqninng into the probability of a Northwest Passage By John Ro.«h, K.S., Commander. Tmk t'vo ships appropriated to this service were the Isal)ella, [\H'„ tons, and tlio Aiexanch'r, -Jo-j tons, coin- jnanded, officered, and manned as under : ISABKLLA. Joliii I?(),s.a, ("oiiiinanrlcr, com niaiidinsr the Expedition. Willitim JJobcrtsoii, Lifnik'iiant. VVilliaiii Tlioiii, Pur.siT. .lohn Ildwards, .Suriicon. C J. Ui.'verlcy, Aaaist. Surceon. J. M. Skene, Adm. MidF}ii])aian. J. C. Ros.-, do. do. J. Riishnun, Midshipman and Clerk. Bcnj. Lewis, Master and Green land Pilot. ThoH. Wilcox, Mate and Green- limd I'ilot. 10 Officers. Ale.vaxder. W. E. Parry, Lieutenant com- mandin:.'. H. V. floppner. Lieutenant. >> . IL lloojier, Punier. Alexander Fisher, Assistant Fur- ireon. Ph. liiKson, Adm. Midshipman John Nia.s, do. do. John Allison, (Jreenland Mast«T. Joseph Phillij)?, do. Mate _Jume8lIulse, Clerk, i) Officers. 3 Carpenter, Cook, Suilmaker. 3 Leading Men. 17 Abl(! Seamen. 5 Murines, 37 Whole complement 3 Carpenter, Sailmaker, Cook. 4 Leading; Men. 31 Able Seamen. 6 Marines. M Whole complement. Siipern umeror/es. 1 Captain .Sabine, Royal Artillery. 1 .'^erseant. do. 1 Esquimaux, Saccheous, or Sack- house, 57 Total on board. AVhen looking out for proper persons to coinmand tlie intended expedition. Sir George Hope, wlio had been tlag-captain to Sir James Saumarez, and tiien a Lord of the Admiralty, recommended Commander Ross nn an ac- tive and zealous officer, and well practised in the ortlitm- J so arctk; voyage.-^. ry (liitM's ol tlic st'iniian s prou'ssioti )r(>IV Til H' onliimrv tlii- tii'M of 11 i^dod sciitiiiiii arc well known ; tlisit Im- cnii liaml, rrt't", >tt'('r, Jiiid liciivi! tin- Irud, keep tli<' tlciid it'ckuiiini;, and tiikr and work an olisrrvation lor the liilitudc; liow iinicli l(»'Vond this Sir (Icor^*' docs not appeal- to have plcdjffd hiiiisclt'. Indcc(l, Hoss states sotncwliat mod- estly, ill Ills introdnrtuin, '* My nautical ctlucation has tan<;lit nic to act, and not to (jucstion ; to olicy orders as tar as possible, not to iliscuss probabilities, or cxainino philosophical or unphilosophical s|)(>culations. I havo here attempted nothing beyond tiie journal ot" a seaman ; it" 1 had done Mior>', I mij;ht have done worse.*' Now sr)methin}; beyond tho g(Mmi'''i 'diaractor ^^iven by Sir (Jeoi'trc! JJope was re(ju:rcd tVo.ii an otTicer who ventured to accept the conmiand ot" an expedition tor tho pui'poses of enlar^inj; tiie wide field of science and dis- covery, Jind inor<'over for that of a pecidiar discovery ; one that had baftlpd tho skill of tlio most able and j)erse- verinn\ RHjiii. •J7 niiniiry dii- t' cnii liaml, tilde ; how ■ar to ImvM iVhllt IIKi.'i- ICMtioil llllS V (trdcrs as »r examine i liavo u st'uinuii ; •I icfor j,Mv«'n nicer n lio ion for tlio •e and dis- discovery ; mid perse- ttioro than ■rved, tiiat 'vor bravo laliliod ; it Mvsevering resfiiiir, a daniped lis to this >po, and, y tor tiio of all, as iscovei'v. ho i-oyal tlie nier- iiipany's ; acting Went n acting anfii-nu'd ill tlireo 1 ~, and ;ht havo n of Com. added, iu'vor siM'ved out of the lialtic ami the White Sni. except (Mice, (ill the Mu>-»h c(»H>taiii Sir C'ii'ori:r l!i'|i(-, mid \\w ."^hipV (.'aptarn l)imiare.-(| — tlic three dcsiiniati^d as iip-riuht, lUiiniriirht. ajid iicrer-rieht. t Mr. I'lanvnv, who was .-o much iili-a.^cd hy the letter, and the littlo tn atise which accomjianied it, tliat he at once (iuliinitted to Lord MelvLlIo lii-' (t]/inlon, tlidt hv was jii^t the nnm tor such an ajipointmcnt, J ',>S Ml» lit |\ \»;r^. or Ini itp)ili|i<-ii)i'lv Im* miiti, titil nnl ili nPptMnt l)l«> i>\pi>rllll litlCJ li lllito' \\l\\s t I'l niMIMiMlili'il Inni ; Init l\o x\ im Imimui'H i'idmuh^Ix iIi •ii|t|«)iMliMl m (lii« iniini\ri \\\ \\\\\> \\ I lit' < i>\ if <• m <|nt''il imi w w^ • otnlni li IiMmI \\ MIX lit till ilitiO' rM\)'M tm rnlli'ii iii)' '^mli n I'OiK !<♦ I'li-i'M iiliiMi- on iiiiimiM Niiliit'i |m nt 't i;i>ivtM ii|i)tii III niliMiiiMt mil. innl, nlnni' nil. ill lli«' riinOi'sM lunniu'i ni >\ Imli i\i'i\ iillcin|i(. m . iiHlin. M mil nl nttit, \> II < >^liiiii>i| nM'i In liilhll llii< nmtiiir 1ii>im i>( j^ii\ (>i niiit'iil 0\\ III)' lit lln'<. imHimhI nl Immiijj nMi<. on lliiMi iiMiini lo I niliiiiil. In | i)>mmI|'i «iMlli\ nl t!\i» lil>iMiilil\ \>\lli wliirli llii< i>\|ii'i|il mil liMil l>«'on titloil out. thcii' \\>\i not iin odii m in nllii'i n|ii|» ihnt iIkI not o\)>io><^ nim titiiiilion innl ili>Mi|i|ioint nioni I ,n I » I N v N I l\ oiii II I 'lO \\ iiM in I 111 In o mill inlrlli t<^nt olhi (M . II i'.ooil oI>mm*oi mill -iniixm ; mul l.iir ri-v\Nv niMTNiu, -on ol till' mli'.l. mi i>m cllonl iln»nii'<''-iii;in t hio nl llin niiil'^lii|>iniMi. .1 t" Kn-.j. n > onnu innn nl tho inosi sulnn miil willni!'. ili'<|inmtiun. \\n-* siihsi«nniMitl_\ Ix'iMl nni|iln\nil m n\ni\ Victic n\|io liitiiMi. I'oininnnili'ii iho lonont Vntmrlu' \n\iii'n ol llnno V*. mill 1-^ nnw t ii|M!nn Sn .Iniiii". ('IniUo Ko^^i. mm MOil, mill oninv in.i: llm tinit ol 1ii>j miIiihIiIo ninl Iid'IiIv pvm-Hi'w 01 lli\ lulinis Ills nmrn will lini|nniill\ nrriii. t ' \r V M N S \ m \ I . nl llm Kn\ nl \ 1 1 illnr\ . \\ nil Uno\\ ' Inv lux s,ii>nlilir iii'i|nn nnmnls. ;niil Ini llm Uiiow ImliM nml u-*!* ol niiUhoiniiliiiil mul ii^li nnnniii nl in-iniinniils, hiMUi: ilosirou>* ol tlio o|>porliinil\ ol |miIIiii!^ liis >.l,ill inin pnuMuiil j'xpniinni-o. \>:i>^ rni|nn.|nil In )nin llio nxpnili 1i»>n !is ;i \olnuloor. mul. liUo tlin lost. Iiml hnt too iniicli «'iui<<» to Im» ili^mipoinlfil mill luu^rnnod. \n jicconnt ol lus sul^s»»tpnMit mill mi1\i:iI'Io IjiI'ov^. linwnxnr. will linro iitlov tiuil !i |>l;h~i' in llu> pic-^onl nmriilnn. \\ woulii li!n<> biNMi nioit> Mcrnonliln. 111 flio ont^ot nl" tlu^ ]M<»s;;ion^. tlimi to Iw oI>1i;mmI In notirc it uuilor :i loolim; ot liisMUpnmlnuMit. wliuh llio ptM'u>«:»l ot 1I sn nnu\ i rhmn ol" llio ii)!iM-ostiii^ jnililioatioiis \\\ iiuosiion. it roujil not with I I • M \l \ Milll li 111 \ IIIIO-4, w |''«<|»(|i:m,. Ctr I. 'Il'l Mill ill •'• "imnrii,!,.,! 'OMili-il ,11 il,,, •■^ • Ktnliii Icil. •IIi'iImI)' >^Mi II "• •'• H'lilHic iili.Mc nil „| '*. "I . iMlliri. ill!' IM'jIi Ml' • Mill III |i,i|||,, iin\ ii«'4||||m |"''lllinii htiij •'"lIliM .j|,,|, OlMl MliMll 'HI. I iMlrlJi. IHIil l,|||<. I' ''Vri'llflil * lill'J'J, II 'Il •'ll'.'' <»r iiiti'ii IvK^^J, llltil "iiil liirhlv ll\ ix ( in, vrl! Knuwp I. now l(>i|,., •fl IIIIICIIJM, • "^ ' r\|)i•• Iiiiicli H'l'iMint III' "ill lllMO t>iiNi<( ,,r liisl \iiv - l>l' i)li|l;','-,| »vliicli Iho i'ri>!iti>s ; ill <•!' llii> not will, |i|ii|ini't\ liiHi' lii'i'ii niiiil It'll. lliiHii'li il I Mil iiMiiiil IiIiIm |i|i'il4nii' III I'll PI ii'ii'iiiti- \\lii'li' (lli'li- M i'\i'i\ ili>-i|li' III piiiiii' III liilllli'l '4 III liiil, liiiw i'< i>i . |il,i< ||||. iiir I'lii llli' tinlll Mill il III' ' |inl.i'M . Mini ll ll|il\ III- li|ii|ii>| Mini i«iil\ ijiii' jiiiliii" III 'iliili- fil mill- lliiil MM liliiiMi' I nil 1,1,,, .||l|\ MMIIiIi III llll\ ll|l|l\ nllllll III |lll> h\|l mI|||II III) ,|,,y iiiH iliili'iiii'iil-j. iiiM'lii'i'iii I', III hill, III mini iiiiitiiiii ^^ liii II niii\ nil III III llii< niMiiiiil imii i iil i \ i ' , llml nil ii|i|it'in In IllHi' iii'i-n imMiilM 111 rdii 1 \\ liiiliM I'l I iHllil lii> III < 1,111 jiliJii'il III iiii'i'l ||ii> \ii.\\.i III )>■•( i>i iiiiiii nliiii mimii. im u im Mi Itn.^ Iimi'^i'll , < 'll III" I' III "I \|'hI llm m|ii|ii Ii-Ii ||,|. mvim, mmivkiI III 1,1'IUirlv III! llln KHll, mill nil llm I il n| .Iniif wmn Mimi'wlii'ro nil llm iMHii'i II siiln III Miivm'm Simile; nin I' I 'I'll I'll sinw ly Iml W I'i'ii I III' II I < Mini till' wi'sln 11 ■:!;nii. nj I il I'l'iilimil, jiiMsini- II iininiii't n| wlmln 'iln|i Immlv fin |>lii\i'il, mill III! llii' I ,||i III .Inim jnil mlit W'livjrnt Simil, m wliirli Will' Inily Inn wliiili'm i|i>liiini ,|,,,.|; ,,( (|,„ |m,|„.||,^ with llm smlniM ; nml Knss hiis\s : •• Siii'MiiiiiMi'''* mil III llllll jiiv I'M i'r,l.-il iill liMiiiiih, niiil willi /•iiiiil-iiiimiiii'il iilli.iniiKiirHM III' |ii'rl..rmi'i| ||,,. nUi,',. ,,l miM- liTiil llii' < rii'iniMiii'M. \ii i;ii|iiiiii;iiix miinl.T III ll,,. r.-r,.,,,!,. """< In (1 llllll UN llm ili'ili III III.; mii|.'4iv''4 sliin-i m l||.. i, y ( • J :k) AR( rit. \ (>v.\ (;!;:■'. S( US (if (irpf'iil;\ii(l w.'is nri .11 ICC soiiirw li;it new. hut NfLsli liiiiiscit ('i)ul(l iKit li.iM- (iiil'oiMH'il liis limitidii-' ill a niiimirr iiioif ii|>|)rii|in.itr It liiil not Ix'loii:,' t'M'ii to Na>li liiiiisi'll' 1() «'(iiiil>iiif ill liisdwti |ii'is()ii, lil\t' ,lii(l\, the tliscoitlaiit (|u;il- ilicatiitis (it scaiiiati. iiitcriirclci'. (iiaiiu'li'siiiaii, and iiiastrr ul" ('(•rciiionifs lo a liall. vsitli lliosc nl •ti\t' lislicr (if seals iiid a liiiiitcr of wliitc hears ■I' ").")-(;. '^riiis iiitelliirent iiiid iiminl)l»> Ksruiiinaux, .Itick Siic- (•htM)Hs (or SiicUhouse). altoi'ds a stfoiiy t'XiiinpI*! ol what ii littlt^ kiiidiM'ss iiiid iittciitioii will eU'ect on liiiiiiiiii lieiiii;s, j'veii in tli(> lowt'st scidc of existence. Of tli(< history of tliis yoiinu nntn there will he occiision to speak lereatter On th(» fittitiii out of the present expedition. Captain liasil Hall, lindinii that Sacelieous liad ii wish to join it, made his desire known at the Adniirnlty, and he was iiccordinaly appointed interpieter, in whit h capacity lio proved exceedin<:ly useliil in the very limited opportu- nity tliat occurred of lioldinii any commmiit-ation with his iiatixe comitryn.en. Amon^ the mirthfid <^rouj) he- forci mentioned, Koss ells us : " A dau;,']iter of the Danish n>,-ideiit, ahoiit eighteen years of age, and hy fjir the hesl looking of tije group, was the oh- ject of .lack's partictilar attentions; which being ohser\t'd hv one of oin- otlic-'r... he gave lilin a lady's sliawl, ornamented Avith sj)aiigles, as an otVering for her acceptance. He present- ed it in a most respectful and not ungraceful maimer to the tlainscl. who hashfully took a ])cwtcr ring from her lingt^r and presented it to him in relnni ; rewarding him, al the same time, with an ehxpieut smile, which could leave no possible doubt on our Ks(piiinau.\'s mind that he had made an impres- sion on her heart." — 1'. f)!). After some d«diiy the wind chancod, nnd the ico be- gan to separate, leaving; an opening along the coast ; but Jack, who Inul gone on shore with his country men, )nid not returned. A boat was tiuMefore sent to bring liini •ill"; but the jioor fellow was fomid in one of the huts with his collar-bone broken, having, und»u* tJio idea, as (expressed by himself, of " /'h nli/ /loicdt r, plctiti/ kill,'''' Dverloaded his gun, and the violence of the recoil hud caused the accident. Ju proceeding norlhernly, the expeditiuu came up witli ( U.M.MAM)I:R .lUlIN KOrfri. m > ill !l llllllllllT Na.^li liiiii.si'll" iscindiiiit (|ii;il- ;ni(l iiiiistcr of lislirr of Wills X, .lack Sjic- cxiiiriplt! ()| ct on liiiiiiHii ICC. Of lll(5 sion to spciik rioii, Ciiptiiiii sh to join it, and ho was capacily lio trd oppoHu- lit-ation witli 111 group bc- i;,'lit('cii yoars [, was flj(« ol). ol)S«'l-\T(l !)V oniainiMitt'd 11«' pivsciit,- inner to tlio II lifi' fui^uir , al tile saino no jiossililo e an iinpic.^- tiio ice he- oojist ; hut •ynicn, liail hriny him if th«> hnts lo idoa, as lr/lf>/ kilt:' recoil had tnc up witli several ui'onps of wlialers tliat had passed thronuii tho tines ot' ice, ill one ot" wliich it was also shortly after heset, in latitude 7')^ 'Xy' , "tho Dexterity whaler now alone continniiiii in sii,dit." ^'et, in tho same pa;i;e, Ixoss savs, *• We arc^ now arrived at a point betwcM'ii wlii(!h and Cape Dudley Dijiges land had not been seon by for- mer navigators ;" as if whale-tishers were* excluded from the class of navigators, llo then goes on to say, that •'between latitude 7")-' 1"J' and HP tho shonj foi-nuMl ii capacious bay, in the midst of which rose u ronuirkablo s|)iral rock; this I nauuMl Melvillo's Momiment, in grate- ful renieuibranci^ of liui lato viscount, from whom 1 received my first commission. '^Po tins bay its(df I gavo the name ot" Mehille's Hay, from r<'!sp»'ct to tlu? pr»>sent Kirst Lord of tho Admii'alty. It is situated botweiMi 7') I-'' and 7()^, and abounds with wiiales, many of which wore taken by the ships that were persevering iMiough to follow us,'' And no doid)t niMubers of whalcirs, for ages before this, liad persevered in their search of whales far be- yond the latitude of 7(i'^ ; but the t^xpedition being one for the purpose of discovery, sometiiing new, it would seem, was to be struck out at this early period, whil(» on the (rrpj'idand side of IJafthrs iiay — a coast which could afford nothing connected with tln^ Polar Soa or witii the northwest passage. In point of fact, Ivoss, on the outset of the voyagts even in the title-page, mis- srat«'s (he coidd not mistake) the objc^ct of his instruc- tions. II(^ says tht^ voyage was made ''for the purpose of exploring liaffm's JJay.*' Now there is not a woi'd in the instructions about exploring liaffm's May; In^ was to stand well to the northward before crossing over to the westwai'd, but not to sto}) on either coast : " »he first and most important object of tliis voyage is to be the discovery of a passage through Jhiris's SlrvlnM'o lln» slii|)s wcrt' 111 iinclior, mid ^iicrlu'oiis wiisdis- piilidird Willi a whili^ lliii; mid scmih* pi'i'smls lo liold a piirii'V willi llu'in, iIh'V ln'iini pliif<'d at nii«* sidr <»!' u cii- iial or rhasiii in Iho in', and lit* on llio other sidi^ All (T loud shouts, Avords, mid iit'stun's, Sarclu'oiis soon per- coivi'd tliat tlioir laiimmno was tlni sunii' as his, hut ol" a ditlcrtMil dialoct. and, holdinj; up his prt's»Mits, ho callod out, "('oint> on;" hut tlio I'oply was, " No, no; f;o away." And ono of thcni, approiichinii tin* rdiio of \\ui canal, ropoatiMl. " (Jo away ; I can kill you," holding; up iiiitt Sacclu'oiis throw over an Kniilish Unito, siiv- MIU, Take that. Tl ilhJ f/i> lis they picked up, shouted, and •h It j)iiiii(f lUtir nofcs. .>accueous, in return, called oi J {< ii^li-i/ttir .' puliiuix his nose \\\*\\ the same iiestiire. This jjulliiiii of noses, which is re|)reseiited to he tlieir mode of a iViendly salutation, is a ti'ite matter of litthi moment, and would not ht^ mentioned here hut tor the sinmilar circumstance, which has heeii told hy sevtM'aJ of the ollicers, and in jiriiit, that they never saw nor heard of it till it was meiitione(l hy Commander Koss, for the first time, at Shetland, on their return hitme. It is scarc(^- ly possihl(» that such a foolish ci'remony, if tVeijuently and solemnly repeattMJ, could have escaped the notice t)f all the ollicers »>\cept that of tho commaiKh'r; yet tliere luiisl he somethinjj; in it, for JJack, in his Arctic. journey, mentions rubbing; of noses as an Ksijuimaux .salutation. The following!; is somewhat curious, consid(>riim; the numher anil frecpiency of whalers visitinji tliis part of the coast, ere no doiiht much intercourse, must have taken phu < 'jetAveiMi them and the innocent nativ«vs : Koss says uiey soon hecmne more familiar, and, point- iiiii to the ships, eafjeriy asked, " What yreat creatures these were 1 Do they come fromtlio snnor the moon ? do they give ns liyht hy niulitor hy day .'" repeating tho (piestion, " What were they .'" to wliich Saccheous re- plied, " They were houses mad(> of wood." They re- .«;ponded " No : they are alive ; we have seen them movo their wings." M ore enlisihtened than tliese Arctic iligli- hmders (for so Ixoss calls them) did the messengers of INlontezuma, on the ani»alof the ships of Cortez, in like nuumer eagerly imiuire, (•oMM.wnrri joiin ro^js. :]3 IS Wiisdis- ■■ to llold H lie otu ca- l«*. Alicr soon por- s, hut tif a , 111' culled <), no : }r{) dye of lli(^ loldill^r )||) viiil't', Miy- iiitt'd, and culled ont [esturc. (> !)(> tlioir M- of little, lit for tlio s»>ver;d of nor heard •*s, {'{)]• the is sraree- Ve(|nently ihe notice er; yet Arcri«-. uiinaux •injj; the part of ust have latives : point- eatures moon ? iting tho ous re- H>y re- M move c High- i^ers of , in like " Wlwit (liviiif iiii)ir-tir-i. oli yi- l'vhich. cdiisidrrcd under all circn nistinires, wonM he aimisiiii; <'n' — M- jiiiir, in sonn' points, to he ih'ficlivi,, hut will he so |)ro- noiuiced in all : in |)oint of fact, he lu'ver set his foot lai shore, and could not. liy any possihijitv, liiive Uiiown any thiiii: ol' the stnll' he has set down, which is of that kind el inaniiliictnre not worth the paper (ai which it is print- ed. .Most readei's will a^ree with the writer in a pop- iiliM' journal, who calls it "a hill of lai-e like that of the liuidlord in the play —all th.' ^ood things are stnlfed into the hill, while nothini; is foimd in the lariler." Koss may certainly |)lciid examples without numher, in the hooks of modern trnv elers. wherein ini!ii:inalioii lias vej-y niiiterially assisted in supply iiii: the details ; hut, somethiiiii ap|)roachiny; to /^/c/ is expected in a voyage like the present, as any de\iation, even in a triMinj; siih- ject. is apt to throw a doiiht on those of greater moment. iSo doiiht, how'ver, can he eutertaine(| of the discovery of a physic;il oiiject (not new, however) t'ound on the diifs ot' this part ol" the coast of I»iit1in"s Hay, not far iVoin Capo Dudley Diimes. '» W'e now discovered,"' ;5 * ]):"yil<'n'ti Ilinjicror of Mexico, -1 ;> t MM M< V ' ' \ \<; I ►<. en \ - 1 \ i» 1 li'il ( 1 1.' '.unw 1 Ml ) 111- liii f 111 I 111 ' I lill I |>l r '.iiili'.l ;1ll t'l'l'i 'H'lm !• I'iMIi tiiM iI nitil mil li' (nii' In iim )i)i| "ii 1 nl I \ I :i mill I'l i . m n ■ 1 1 I ' \ ■ .mm. • ■ \ 1 1 1 I 'im i • \\ In. Ii }VM 1' I' '\ il. I'p I \ mi . 'M 1 . ill >l I 111 ■ llnw 111' llilil , ' ■ \\ 1 )>i 111 1 1 :»l I'll ii 1 n .lii\\ M 1 1> I 111 ' 1 111 l> . Ill ni'in \ pliii i"! 1 ii •! it.'fil li nt 1 1'M iii I \\ I'll (• I , '1 '1 li\ t 111' I nlm mil 1111)1 1 I 1 Ml liliii ii\ ll.-\\iMili\.i|iimi.iil,(||.|llliiiii|, mm. iii:iI|im1'iiiI wli'il itlil'i\.liii''lli'l jiiin'liilli'liiii|i> lliim rin mill i>i tw.i li.iii-'illi llii' niliiii' nl tlii' iinw \ I ■ I n \ I . m ) I ' I ( I n I > : , 111 1 1 M 11 1 ■ > \ 1 M 1 ' ' 1 1 1 1 1 ' 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 1 I ' 1 1 1 ywy .111' I !ii 1 1" I >l ■ ii linn nil 'in ii | '| >i mi in i. n . I ml 1 1 1 1 i •i'tX'. n \\n: 'U mill" ili'ii'iiimu'.l ii imiM nul In' lln- iluiii 1 >< 1mi .1 . " vi\ liiM :i li:i t \ rmii III 'inn Im \| i 1 1 i !tnili« lliii I li.mn I in wli.mi n \\ ■» : tii jI iiliimlli.l nn llm in 1 1ll i\ iil I 111' n\ ni iln i.m . ( m I lli ' | \ I . llm ..m. i;il ii|iiiiiii|i nl llm iiiiii iM'<, \\ li.i I' \ inmii'.l il Willi llm iim i .> . npn, 1 1 ml It imti-l l»n > I'.-.'l iMn , ;ln.l in llii-; iipilllnn I *i \\ nlltl^ilnu ronnn Vi'il. Mtini :i ninmin n\:»nimiil mn I'nili l'\ llm mi i'vo<.( i>)>o !\n.l I Immii :il t n^l ■< \ nl '■< i'\ nn liMil In : liniilil j Mi Im nw n, llm , .-InKi il n.l I'lH ;»iii ,( . i nni . d n i ni 1 il nm 111 1-n 1 iiM i< ivl I riMt\ >..Mnn nl i Im nl> r, iimiI i 'i \ n. ni 1 1 1 iimll n I /',>>>..',' .■>,,•?'.' ^ . llm mm n |Mnl':ililn. n ■; llm i nnl •- nl llm nii'>>.'; y\ '^y>'i m^ nl /*..),/',■. >i'\. i nmninii nn llin^n rli(i->. :ii n ilnnp s, mini ilnnjv niiln.'.l, nm I llm\ lin In •SMiiiM iMi llm nnMiionnti -1\ n\;»i'ini .iin.l )m ml nl llm n i inn siMi rl.iK. Hi. «n!n\"n.i m llm > ninmn I'lmi n I'J nnlliim' nn\\ . ImNx I'x iM, m llm iii>.x vifnrs i>l lu'. luni» iwniiunn ii . Smi-'-mn Inuuil il m >!Uu^ii>. P'lvii^ iM llm Vlp'^ . ^Iiiilm Inuuil ii m .'^|iii l^,M•^;■^■>n. ;>u,l \m I'nulM i1 n^ (n bn nml \\ u h m nin.l ;il|inm V Imlo i.n-lliov (Ml. ihn slup"; >v«mo ^i^^ilnil li\ llnni» OlIuM )'" •>(^\"inn;ui\. Irnni >\ Imin intovmtiliou >\ m- ininnml llim llio iron ]Vir1 nl tlmu Knn ."- \> iw fnnnil nn ;i mminl Sin m s:^■«v^1 in!»vK,><. nn.i i]\:il n \> ;>< ;« |vnl nl thn nmnnl- Rin : ihnl m oiliov pin. n-J il \> m-- rnnn.l m snli.i pmi-"'. i;»il puN <\ IvMn,'". o\;»nnnnil ni I'm;'. l!V,-!.'., \x '^v iniui/. 5.> roni.nri lh«» iisu;il prnpni lion ot nulvol • ' I M \l V W Ml II li HI M IK I !vi :m It" I lill 1 |i| ,< I ■ :| Mli' . Iii'illll I'llli f \\ llli ll l\ .'• I.. ,..|,| . ni!Hl\ |I|( I I II "> ; I'll! Ii n-,'.| n.'l I'.' til,. Ml Id. III. I,. i| lUI ( ll,. I ,. II" llll!l|\ •■I'll, I ..II, ,. (,, I,,. ll iipiin.in ,i| "■^1 i'|"\ llmi \\ I'llii-M.iii I l'\ ll|i> nil I In . il.Mil.i j 1 1'. I It nil. Ill IM 1 1 illli'll f llii' I ...ll ■, nl Ml oil (h,.,,, lli.\ I..' t.> I 111' l< I lull ' I-' iiKiliinc I'llMV Mill! Ill' 1,11111,1 ll n III Spit in"-1 ;il|»nn« '.I In (111 .'!» .1^ I I'l iM\ i>,| '11 ;i in. Mint llii' in.iiini - i I'll'. .', ,>n h;ir.t -.tiMii'. iM:; ;niv of 1^1 Ml l'n,.< i'u nt m. ImI I I 'IV mo iiin\ |iii ■imI I Mill. I III, II, •, I Im,m(.i). u Im- Ii |; ,,..'c( ' ' '■' '"' •' •'■'\ ""•' ''• '•'■ ' MMll,:,, .,,,1 ,,l ll,,. . , I, Mil, ,11, 111 v\Ih' ll liMlIni Imi hiiil ll ,|,M-, 11, \\ I.I :ti.Mli..|ini. Mini'l I Mini. Ill ll.lll III I III. Ill.l Ihw ,|MJ ; .,M,|, „., ^V(. Wl'l I. .;(,.,., Ml I,. I ll IV llll ,1 lilM. 1,1,...,,.. ,mmI ll,,. ,.„ „h,,,„,| , ,, ,,, ,,| }• >• w <• ;'it\<' n|» nil III, !i <.| • iiiiiniiiiiii .,|,,,„ ^^ ,(|, ij,,, /^ ,,,,, "' ''■ ' ■'" '/" ''!■'>'■/' ' ■ 111.- Iii,|..-. ,,| „i;,nhn,i, d,,, I"'""' "'l' ' ' "• III' ' nil I |i,i ,. „.,,,. lunv I, ,,...,., I I,, .,,,1 I, " I" '"lit 'I ■ I" "I'll " (I'lll. W 111, I, VV'l ! , Mil. nil ,,.i| , ,, ,|, ""''''" '"'• " '"^^ '""" ■ I" I'lll-. Ill, .,I.|. 1 I 1,1 ,|,, , ,,, '''""'■"' ' '• '"' ■■ ii"l' ' -I, '(iiili. I,, III. ll, ||,n,| ,,| ll,,, " !■"""' "I'r " '." iniil I.. .111. I.I I,,,,, I ||,„| .: ..,,, ,|,,.,,,„|,|,, """' ''"• ''""' "• " III! "11. III.' ImI... ,,| I,.,,,,,,,,,,,,, I),,. \ . 'M liiM nil. inlnnii i.i| |,. i|,i. | . ||, ,,| \ ,,,,,, , ,,,,,| ,,^^ ,, ^^^ '"'I'" '•" I"" Iinlli.l ihImmh , ,| ||,,,i, (,, ll,,, v^.,. I, Ml '"" ' "' '•"""I I '"1 VN ll" I. , Mil t I,., ,„, ,„,. ,|.,|,,.^ , ,,,,,,, " I'll' 'I."" I"" l"'in.| ,; ,.||,,,,,i ,,, I, ,i\v. •<..,, ll,,,,, •'"■ """"\ ' '"II'Im , V\ llll 1, I'.MlIni „l I,.,., „(|i,,,|,>i| " • ^^'•"''1. "" 'l""li(, liini. |„ ,.,, ,|,.,,,„|,|,. , ^, „ ,,,^ ,,||^ ;l III < i, ,.i 11 liiip I "'• '■"= '" •''" \^'"' '"I .':..nM.I UM... .nn.|,|..h- '^ '■'"•' '"' "I- ^^"l I I inis |,ni|, ,; ,|,,,. ,,, |,,^ "^^"' '"'"■ ' ' l'">'" I'li'^.'-I ll ..I ll,,.,|,.| ,,,,1 (,„,y ""'"•'"' ''■"-■' • ■'•'" I." ll" 'MN^i, '■ .,,.„.", I I., |„. '"""" '" '^\""'S I" ^ M, ,1, ,ii|, ;•• I ,( ,,, ,,^. ,,,_, '"'" '" '"' •""••' '"'^ II III- li-.l I ,1 ||,,„,„|, ''"" '"" " I'"" '"'" '•"". ll... .|,,|. „| |.„,, „ |,,,„,|,,.,| ""'•'^ • '"' '""' l""^ "I\ |'l"|.l I ll,.. ,, ,„|,., : (,„ •' '"""■ ■■'•"'"• I'l'*'"." II "IIIIMJ ll,,.,,, ||,„,_ ,,, ,1,,^,, ^^^ 1^^ V""'""'- '''"' '"' •'"'Mllil.' (..^rn I |,„ .,„ unn.r.M.o """""•"'• •""'• •' • """ " "" ImIM ,,M|.,„, ,,|i.,.| ,|,„, III" I-.un, nl M.iiin u,,, ..Mi.,„|,m| |„.v.„„| ,,nn ln„,.l,,,| "'"'""^ ""'"^'" "'• " ■ I '''1111.1,.. ..,.v...W,.|„„,„| ""; """ '" ""^ '"'-•■■ 0\'"M.'i.li.:ln..., nlnn l-Miy ""'•;^ ""^ " '""' •'"• .' "ll l"i I ii|.|..'.,nM,<",,| ih„ '•■""';""''' M'-.i..|\ u.'ll vMll, III" , I, ..,.,,,„,„„ „„„„ "' " ''.^ ''■■ '•" ^l<''i..'.'r iMinn.-li, „ iniKi |„. , ,,|,|, ■^„,,| '■''"""''•""■'"' ^"' " ^^<'HMl.'.,nnn^ vrrvt-,,.,,, .,,„„(; •;' "•llli'l'Mi.-" In Imlirvn ||,„l nilV jiiill .,l I '. „| | n.'-; I.n,.| '';';''"i"""> '""M '"> .M-i. Ill ii.m I ,, ,h,,„,„,. -,,,,, "'"".'""■'1'" '" '^ ""^^'•" '^ "" I'll.-niUMl. llMVIII- M„ '''"'"' '" "' "'^•'- "imKii.,", Inn.M.iniiM..-:. (n.vui- nmny A :u\ AllcriC XiiVAMS. iiiNM'^ or siniilliT '^(lllnll'< williin it, mid i'^ ii lil plin'i' lur tln< Ivilliii;: III \N li;ilt'->." Twn liiMIl-. illlci- pil'-MII;', \\ nl .Iclliiolllic. I Ili'V |i(i'.il !• \\ li;ili' Soiiiul. Jiinl |'ii^s(<(| il ill II ^rciilcr ills- (Miicf lliiiii lli(< toiiiKM' : l>ill lli<*\ riiiilil iii>| :i|i|ii njirli it, III ;i I lire I I Inn- nil :i( rniliit ol t lii> lir. 'I'lir s:iiiii< i-M'ii III:; it !•> >l;it«i| lli;it, iit-iii ( ',in'\ 's Isliimls. "tlii-'-i'ii \\ ;is 1 IcaiiM ol tliM'^ iinti Idu^c ICC tliiiii \\ r liiiil r\iT seen it. " 'I'lii'v li;i(l ;iil\iiin«'(l mIhiiiI iniiliiiutil <'l tin- l!itli to the iioillii'iii (tuiicr ut r.jitiiirs r.jiy. wlinr Sir riiniiiiis Sinilir-> Siiiiiid opens (Mil, and w Inch llti'.s sii\ s " \\ ih ill-.! nil 1 1\ siMMi," and lie iiaiiicd llii> two capi-s turiiillii; It-- cntiaiicc iil'tiM tli<> two sliip^. Isaludla and \ IcxaiidtT. • ' I coilshiiMt'd," sji\ s K OSS. '• llio hoUnni (it tills sound lu lu» alioiit ciLililccii lca:Mii's distant, liiit its ciitiaiicc was coiiipIclcU i'lockcd lip l>v ICC." lie rori^cls that. I>\ hi.s t'wn show nu:, lii> was ih-mt lienor than m\I\ I'.iii^lisli nnlcs troni iho (nfriiiarkali|\ clear and line lill niidniL;h', he coiiM not see an\ such jiinelioii. '* II. »s pidliahle.'" he adds. " that iheehasin or open -..pare to the iioithw ard, \\ liere not any land could he traced In/ 71) I , miulil he ihal which r>alhn calU Sir 'riioiiias Siiiltirs Sound, -lid ^\llll■h he desciihes ;is ihc deepest and lar- i:e-.i soniiil III all this hay : and it is not likely,"" sa\ s l'"lsh- er, •' that we should Iia\e seen the hoitoni ot it at such ••) dist;ince, ;is we estimale that we are twciilN leagues iVoiu the northern extreme of the west land visihle." .\s (his sound is slated i>\ rdilliii to he the laiiiesl of Jill lh<' sounds he discovered, iiiid coiisiderini: its positinii :Mid Its niai:nil iide. it appears hy no jiieans iinprohahle that it i> a w iiie sirait di\ idini: (ireenland Ironi Americii, i>r the west land as Mr. I'isher calls it. thus \erit\iiiij; the dii'tiiiii uivcn hy I'Mirlei^h more than two eeiitiiries ;ii:o. Anions; the papers ot'this extraordiniiry inaii in jlii^ i)rilisli Museum is oiu' on the siihject ol' a iiorth- Vt'cui ji.Ls^iiii^e ti) C"iithuia, in his loid!«hip"s own Imiui- (iMM \Mil K .r< i||\ Un.-^.i. •ly :i il |'liici> Inr lln'V nimo i|i|ii i>ii< Il il ■.iinii" <'\ rii ■ lir -.('il \\ ;r-i fv ^rcii II . " I 'illi III lli(> ^ir 'riiniiias >-il\ s •• WilS |H>s 1(111111111; \ IcMiiitlcr. Ills Sllllllll III iliiiiirr \\ ii^ 1 1 1)1 1. Ii\ Ins \l\ l'',iii:lisii llOllCsl It'S- Iriiil |ml»- I' llir \lr\- I sil\ s lIlJll. Iirr (irrni- rr\\ iill iliiy ; ir Mini lini' el iitii. '* Il irii ■-|iiirr to Iriimi III/ \\:\^ Smitli's •>^l iiiiil liir- sil\ S i''lsll - t' it Ml such it\ IrMiiiics |\ i--il>lr."' huiii'sl III lis |nisilinii llll|ll'llilMi)Ii^ 11 AiiuTicii, s \rril\ iiii; ) criitiirirs |iiy iiiMii in li M norlh- twii Imuil- wnlmu. wliiili lii'iiiiis lliii4 : " ( 'mi .hIi riii" ( tni\ iifliinili' H W I'll KlIoVV II !•• Ill' III! I 'Im|I. Mll'l lIlMl ll 1. Iliil l'(i|l |,i\ iiimI III Vnii'lliM III IIIIN |iMll. IMIil lll.ll llli'ir 1'^ lli> ( ;iii.r III iliiulili- lull lluil ll|iiill llir IHHlll III liMrrilllKis till' s(';is Mil- ii|irii " ■ A 1. r>iil jl.illiii's m riiiiiil III Sir rimiiiMs Siiiilli'-; SihiihI, liiii'l ;is ll is, iiii^'IiI III liMvi' iinlnrril llii^. In luiik iiilu il ; iiiiiir r.{ii'i'iMll\ IIS lie \ i ilillll M l ll \ MIIIIdiiim rs |||r i'\|ir illtliill In 111' •■ |n| llic |(lll |ln,i' ii| i • \ | l|n| 1 1|;; r.ildlll's \',:{\ ." riMllill iilil\ sM\s. •• ll riiiiiirlll III till' linilll III / - , Mini I-, M.ltiill mIiIi' III nlH' li'--|ii'rl , Imtmiisc III ll IS llii' :.;irMli' I \;ili;illiill III llli' cnllllUlssr ul' llliy |ilirl III till' Klinwii Wnllil: Inr li\ lIlMTs ^iiilij I ilisi 'IS M I Kills I Inllll'l ll In lir mIhi\ I' U\^' 1 11 Ml I Is, I u I'll ty SI \ (Ic'^rrrs, \ MIH'il In I lir Wr -I WMlil." IhiI IIm' s| |(i|lL'r-.| ICMsiMI llllll slimilil llJIM- n|l il.lli'l nil lln-.". Illlinl W II . llic |ins .iliilil y ul lllis snllinl Imiiil; ',[ \\ nil' •llllll, opriiiii^ (lirrrlly iiitii llir ruliii' Sc;i. ami ;iIIi>I(Iiiil; llir slimlfsl |)M-.sM^^• I liimiiili il In {'.rliniii^'M "sliiiil ;i illsciiM'iy lIlMl Wlllllll llMM' III 11 III III illl/,rl I llllll. Ill' WMs III lull lilii'ity In use Ins ilisri cl mil. S|ti'Mkiiii; i\\' Ihivis's SliMit, Ins iiisl nicl ions say : "III till' |ili' .rill stair nl lliirrltaillts' Willi ir;M|i| In llic iiin\ riiu'iils 111 till' ill', aiiil Willi llir \i'i\ i iii| in |i 'il Kimwl- <(l::i' wr lia\i' nl' llii-, strait, and still ninic sn nj llif sea lir- \nllil ll. lin -lirrilic I ll >.l rilcl |i il l-< i.'lll 111' :.'r>i'l| Inr \nlir I'IIkI- aai 1' : till' liini' ami iiiaiiin'r nl |irnri'i'(l ihl; In In Mil I llir iiltrri 1 If nii|i'i t III \ iiiir ili'--l I iia t mil, in |ilai r -i w lir i c iiii|iri| nnrnN llia\ nrciir. Illll^l lir Irll rllt'ri'ls In \nlir 1 1 i -irr I Inn, in llir r\- rii i-r 111 wlili ll \\r rrl\ nil \nlir /ral ami skill in yniir |i|n- |r-,i(iii Inr ihr ari'ii|ll|ilis|iiiiriil, a> lar im il ran 111- arcniii- |ill-liri|. nl ihr srr\lir nil wlllill \ni| arr r III | iln\ i ■( I . "t < Ml i(iiiii(liiii; llin imrllii'rn Mini t niniii^ iluwii t lir wrsl- rrii riiMst, iillcr pMssiiii; llm nil i'miici' nl' Sir 'rimniMs Siiiiili's ."^ninnl. Mr. l-'islicr iisscrls, mihI M|t|)raU In tlm ln^ 111 till' \ lc\MI|i|«>r In |irii\r il, lIlMl " im |;iiii| was srrii In tlir imrliiwMiil ill thai ilii rctinii."' ( )iit' nl' the nKirns ilrclai'i's ihiif hi' saw the sun at inii|iiit;hl lhrnu;^h lln- (i|ii'iiiii^ nl" the sniiiiil in (|U('s| ion, just skiniiniii^ mImho till' hnri/nii. 'riirsi- iiri' iinwi'ilnl lirmiiiils I'lir Imlirviiii; thai I'liirli'iuli iliij imt iiuikr ihr ;i-si'rtinii at raiiilmn, " that ( irrrnliniil was wi-ll Ivimwii tn he mii isliiml." * I.;!a''.li)\vii>. ( 'ullii'tiiin. I) I .\iliiiira!ty Iiiitnictiorn i :rs A lie lie \(iv,\(;r,s. ( >r llit> rriii.'iiniii^ sniirnl ol l>;iHiii, wliirli lii> iimdic^ \Mriiiiiiii .loiics's SuiiikI. nil wr Iciiiii liinii K uss is, t liill "It ;ilis\\ i iliscov imimI il ." "W'rwrm Ill-Mr the riiliiiiM'c ol .lniirv's Stiimd," S!i\ s ( '!i|iliilll Sii- Ihih'. " lull iidl s(» iiciir ;h ItMHiii. who s(>iil liis JHint mi sliinc." So llli^llt ( 'oiiiiii;iii(|i>r lvns'4 liiivc (luiic. who rrmiiiiirtl llicrc 110111 tlio 'Jlsl to llio t.'.'.d. wln-ii, " to- w .nil t'Nciiiii^." lie s;i\ s. "wo sii(fi"-^i\ oly iiiiiilo out tlio north iiiiil soiitli |ioiiils ol' till' laiiil iici'oss tlio Itnthuii ot \\\\^ liny or inlet ; iit iiiitliiiulil n ri'li:*' of vory hii^li iiiiiiiiil.iiii'^ Wii-^ '-COM to oxtoiiil iiojirly .'icross ay. I liMVo d(>n\od i^rcat additional ploasuro Ironi tlio roljoclioii that I ha\o placed in a fair liiiht hct'orc tins j>uMic the merits oi' u worthy and ahle navii:;Mtor, whoso tMti'. like that of many others, it lias not only hccii to liM\c lost, by a coinliinatioii ttf untoward circumsianccs, the opportunity of accpiirim; dui'iiii; his lifetime the faiiH> lie dcscr\ed. hut, could ln< liavi> livcil |o this period, to lia\e sctMi his discoveries e\|)uimed troni the records of ueocraphy. and the hay with which his name is so fairly associated treated as a phantom of the ima;;iiia- 1 1011." l-".\i'ry person al all acijUMinti^l with voyages of dis- covery knows thai liallin was not only a skilfull iiaviua- tor, hut so well \ersed in nautical astronomy as to he ahle to deduce the loiiiiitude from lunar ohsei'vatioiis. Whether, as pilot lUily to IJoherl Uylot.tliis last voya^o was iiel »>\aclly to his mind, and was therelore more >ai;iiely and unsatisfactorily recorded than any id' hi.s i'rul>alily iViiii t!i;'ir i'.tlorilai;: i-iiuii,liP;;-< I'ur sliijw tci aiicliur in. toMMAMiKK .M)|l\ KOS.i. :vj II Knss IS, mil .luiirs's ' We wrio ";i|)liiiii Su- ns lllllll Mil (lollf, \vli(» \ In-ii. " to- iilt' out tllM • hnlltilil III vt'iv lni:h (Iii> liiitliiiii HI llir -Jllli lilt .hitirs'M (til iinv ol" l;il \V!iiit ol" I hy liiiniii, Is. (IS lie lias tilt' ItllldW- oss's liitro- llll Willll 1)1 \Uii I'.iillin's iVoill lln'« »('ttirt« tlio lor, wliosis V hooii to iinsiauccs, tin- ruiiio |)(Mio(l. to it'conls ol aiiir is so iiiiaiiiiia- i^cs of »lis- iill iiaviya- \,- as lo ho isorvatioiis. ast voyaiio ■t'oro iiioro any of liis alirho!' in otlh'i's, liH iircoiint III' it is nii(li)iilitcill_\ iinliKo tlio pio- (lMllll^ iMiii ill i\ t's (il liis Miyiii^cs. rmHin is •>() iiniill iiwaic "I tins, lliat. in liis h'tlrr to \]y. .Iulm \\'o!->ti'ii- Iiii|ini>, ho ohsiTMs. '• S(iiii»> may iphjrci nml iisKr why \\r '-iiii:;h( that (•oa--l no ln-tlt'r !" In wliuli lie iijlc'^c-, m an ■^w or. I III' liailnrss n| I lii« woat hor, I ho loss nl anchnrs, llir wcaUiioss nl' llio rrou, aiiil tllo (iilviincod st-iisoii of till- \tar. r>nl as to tlio oxpnnijini:, liis discovoiioM I'lniii iho locoiils III' i;o()i:ia|»liy, llio liioiiinlloss iissoi'lioii is iIni'Ii no iiiuro than "a |)hantoni ol llio illumination." rnirhas rvcnsos Iniiiscir t'ur not pnlilislnii^ his chiii't, :iiiil lalilos on acfinint of iho oxpoiisc ; lait i rjuni <' i n !<; Ins ilisciiv orios is a disitinni ol' ( 'oMimandrr Moss, anil ijii'ir III il I'oniain.'' 1 1 illiorto Koss hail laiot'nlly avoiili'd a|i|>i ariin's |!iiy. Ilowovor, in )im- rorilin;; down tlio wosloni coasl, and tlio woatlior honi'^ louiZN . ho lonnd liiiiisoll' nnawaios noari-r to iho slioio than was .siipposod, and |)orlia|»s wished; in I'lni. ho was jnsi at tlio iiioiitli ol' ihn nnly roniainiiiL:. ami hy I'lir llio laii:ost and niosi roiimrUalilo, as well as, iVoiii its |iosilioii, tli(4 most im|iorlaiit sound or o|ionin^ of any llial had liooii soon on oithor coast : this was what, r>aHiii has called Sir James I jancastor's Sound. Thoro was liore. at least, no ice to (diolxo it up; mmo in tlio \icinily ol' it : the sonndiin;s willionl il are miiked JOiK) lallionis ; Avithin il, fiiin to (i? I I'alhonis : no a|)pe!iranco III' any hdllnm was hero pretended to lia\o lieeii seen, and alto<;etliei' it was nllerly iiiipossihie, on any pretence, to a\oid enteriny it ; and the ships tlKM'et'urt' stood in. As this sound or hay has aH'ordod the means of pretty well settling ( 'onniiandei' Koss's repiitalioii as a discuv- erer or explorer, il is lair to ,i;ivo liim the I'nII heiielit nl' liis own account of il : " DmiiiL' this ihiv (^iOthef \ii'.'iisl) ncicli iiilerest w;is r.v- « itril nil hnjird i)v the ap[)r;iraiice nl this strait; the Lieiii'ral ' I'llluiiLitdii li.id till' iiii|Mrliiiriii'i' til ('nil Hatriii .'ui iiiipii>tiir, but nil thut wiis I'Vrr known ainl {iiitilisiirtl ol I'l.itlin'M iii-i-i)ViTit.'.-j Irnvr liren \>Vo- I I \0 Mil lit \ it\ \<.r opinion. lioWiVi I WM tliit it w .1 . ii|il\ 111) mil I < .i|il;iiii S,.l II no \\ 111' |M . i .■.;i>',o.' ' nn (l>l>o;n :mi MM ,1 1 III 1 1 III . no il iill \\ oi'd . ;mi| 'no liw o Ironi llio noi iliw . i r 1,1 I n llio 111 '.I |'l;ii o. il in;i\ lio oli'.oi \ Oil. I li;il I tiillm no\ of I'lllOIO.l l.lllh ;is|01 Souilil. Illhl. ll IIIMV llli'lololo lio |i|o suiuoil, iio\o) !'.;n o ;in\ m oouiil ol il . I'ho ii'.i nin^i l>o iiltoi^ollioi . mill I !1M iiol |io ollioiwi.o lliiiii !i iiii'-'>l ;ilo lUiMit. <"!>|M:nn Siihiiio innilil oli'-ono, iiioi(>l\ w^ m ImiI. tli;\i no nil UMil oi .lull \\ ooil ;i|i|io;ii oil. \\ In. Ii Ko.'-. Ii\ :\ '•tiMUiio misiiiKo. t;iiii icil lio >\ !i ; i;,;r ,., In i-osmli for. Miiil coH'-lMnlU Ki'pt liilUiiU', :il'oiil ; Iml llio-.o \\ Im Know t'liplMin S;il>iiu>. iiinl mo in (|ii;iinIoil willt Iii-j I'loiit liilonls. In-- lo\o loi --1 iiMit o. mill tin- , o;il ni |iiii'-iMt o( il. will ho slow to lu'liox' mi\ tliiii", ol ilio Kiiiil In Iiiim* proo(>otlo.l Iroiu limi. Iliil o\oii woio il possililo ln> slioul.l limo ,'ii\(Mi ulloimtro lo mi opinnni loi wlmli lio h;i.i no );iouii(is. us no liuiumi Immii;; ol ;iii\ ciniiilrN. iUit'ionl or moi| » oiiinimiil ol mi ovpoilil ion nl ili^^rnv «M \ . sllOUlil (|UOlo. Ms ll \\ (>rO. Ill ills own jllslltlCilllOll. mill bo i^niiioil l'\ llio opinion ol nn mlillorv nlliooi. w Im porli;ips w;is at soa lor lln> liisi iniio ' W liiil. in liict. ronlil (":»piam Sabnio llion Know ol oitlior Lancasior Soiiiiil or ( "unibiMiaiul Slrail. oxi'opl, as In lli(> latloi. lliMt iI w Ms w oil Uiiow n lo loaii niil\ tn a parool ol islaiiils. aihi thai l'"o\'s ("hamu'l. Sinilliaiii|iloii IsI.hkI. llio \\ ol oonu\ all iiiusi 1m' pass(<(i liolnro liio roast nl \moiio!i roiilil ho ajipioat lioii l'\ that roiilo .' \ ImioI aoconnl ot llit» o\pt>tiit ion. b\ an oliioor (Mi!;auoil in it. was pnli lisiioii in a luonlhlx innrnal. ami is pi nnniiiiooil h\ ( 'ap lain Salnno li> bo "a well wiiltoii ami. wiiicli is iiinrn iiup(>rlanl. a taillilul acttnmt ol' llio prncooiliii;;s nl" lii(> «^\pi>ihliou." In tins aoiounl. so praismi. il is slaltMl, ainonc i^iIum" iiiatU'is folalim: 1<' l-anoasWM- Soiiml, tlial. "«wt>r_\ otihor ami man. on llio instant, as it wtMc. nia(l«» \i]'> lus miml that ,''/..< ?'. .'/.v,' />< fhr iii |I| (. I <'-t IMII ^1 l(i> <'l nil'>'.|;||i> 'l\ IH !| 1,1, (. nil IJit'.«. Ii\ ' to '•I'ill I ll lhn-.i> \\ In, III) Ills I'.ri'iif MIIMIlt III |(. "Ill III hiiM. |>IISS||||(. ll,, " W III* ll |||> "> riuiiil r\ . ■lltlMl'.l tliM I III.- Iliiw. II <>t ilivii ii\ ll^llllr.llliili. 'I>iy ( '.'ij)- II i-^i iiinii* liys III' |||i< is siiilt>il, "iiiiil. iliiil. "Ml', lll.'lilj^ k Clout iiro "11 I'.'MI.I Mlllh l|i,ll,.,| ll,,. |.|,. ,,,,,.,• Ml vv lill.i- III) i.mmIimiiI '•'•I""' '' '" '•'' llH'Mih. rllhri |,,.ni I I .1,.,,! ,,| u,.^) I'l II sihii r J III llii< I'm ill, " •'"I' '" I'ini n 1,1 ( mmmmihmI.'I |;,i..^'.4 niiiitilivi. : "''^""" ■'"'■' nilJln. Ill ll„. V, Ml, I I HI In ..I, ,11 , I ih, ,,,,(,„,, "'^"'" •'" '^"l' ^""' I'" •!'■• \l'v M„l. , ..„,.,„I,.,„|,U „ ,. ,„ ^' •■' ''"'" '"'""• '"'" "''I'"!' V M >l" li.nl VMM.,,.,, .,, ,|„. 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Ih' In,,,,. ,, ,,| ,,',,,■ '";'','"' "-•/^'■";:m-" m,.i|...,„,| I ,„„,„|,,| ,,,,,,,,, .^,,„,,,, *'"' ''"","■' '•"'' llllrix;,!, 1,1,1 I |..„,„| ,|„, .,,„,|„ :,., ,„.,| ,,. . •" ' ' 7; "■■-'I. -"I ' lull U..IS., ,,,:„, ,1,,, „ ,:,, mi|'i:l' In ,ilii,., r I ; ' I , I I'! .IMlj '" I'K'lll.'- III! run V's |>IHIl(|. |llll||,;,| ll '"'■',' " " ^ '• ''"• '"HI iiiu r.i. , 1.1,1, „,... (iin.r; ■; ^,.,'„',',' M.n(lnM..||,,„.),,,|„|,.,„„„„„,,,„^,„^„,, ,,„,,,„„,,„^,,, ' I' ...i|H.vs,i,ii. ll, ,.,|,|„,K ,i,„ ,,i,, I, „.„„„... ,,„i ; ''•"''"'- " '"'1'' lI'Ml ll m,n, 1.1. r,„....,| 1,^ ,|„,. ,„|„, |.„,„„ " i;"'^''"!^'" """'I ...;, Ill llii. un.luiinl 1,1 ,!.•• \ I,,,,,,,:' ••''"' """;"^'' '"'I"" iii"i.uiiii„,iurivi. ,1 i,„ |v„,. i;,„| "'" ^ ll'Hiiii,.. In n.i,|,/,,.. |:„| ,,. ,.,„„|„„„ I,,,,,,,,. fMiii.'ls liiiiii Kiis^ ,,ii (1||,. ,„|,| ,,| ,1,,, ^,,^.| M ii:.ll |'.'.<1 lu.iCtl-l \„..-,Ml,, u|„.„ I ,,,,„, ,,„ ,1,,,, „. ""Urr, Il,i.,i. u,.,.. s,.,,,.. I,,.,.,.. .,, ,,.,1,.,,,,,,, ,,„, , |,|,',„ "■'V" '"','^'""'' "" ''"■ .■'|'I"''H-.IM... ,,| I,,,,. I ,„ „„ ;,|„ „| ' ""■';'• ";• "'""■■■'■"I 'I- -.I..I,, ul„. v,;m ,..|„.,,,.,| ,„ ,,„ ':Til ' l'-^'<.''-|'M.-'l...nl,M ..,„.„. I,,.,. :,|„„ ;•;,";'■" ";'^'^ ;:.|.i'-Mn.MM.i,i„,,i, ,„ „„. i.,.,„.„; 1^ ( : i 1 .) n' I Ml > i • \ \ I »•» nl\lM it i.'n()'l.<.U il.'ll.il )ii| '(IliU (.11 tllUlMt, . Mllll I ili.l t">. (U M 1 1 1 I t I . I I 1 1 I I 1 1 'I 1 1 1 .' 1 1 1 1 I I I 1 1 Kill) ill... I I I I I I 1 1 I . < 1 1 1 1 1 I , , I II '. n till 111 n ill (iiil . Ill |i 'i|. \ 1 till 111. 111. Ill I .|l 111 ii\i i.iil.ninH .'(i,. It'll. ,|iliii.,i( .iiiiiiiil. r^ 1. n.lin. til 111 I'll, -iilf >'\ til. I.n t.. ill.. ..ill. I I., till . II til,. ^1. II . I I ip, 1.1 til. ii.'i til »i III. I| I II nil. ,( ill I '' II •;...),.,. ^\ 1 I . M,i, I in. 4 ill |t III til.' ...■Ill 1 1 u 111. li HI' II ml. .1 iOm) ^ , >iiii I 1 ll. I . I • li III. iii.iiiiii nil \> 111. Ii . . . .|i... .1 ill,. I , •• ii 1 I M ■» II. 'I 1 ll 'III. I 1 ml 1 1 ll 1 1 1 . 1i. .11 II . 1 I nun. .1 I i , .|. . i u iM .111 1111 . 'it'll I til, S, . I (I'll 1 1. . til,' \ .Inn I ill I I III mil \\ , 1 , -I n. I n 1 HI ll t. '1 III. .1 1 I ' n I. '11 I ■ i v i . 'iii| I, 1 . 1 1 i 1. , ,i In . , Ml 11 ,111, .) I' ni.'ii 1 |l .1 III. I I I. iiM.I, ,1 ,,|| 111, .,.iii)i In I 1)1, ■ ( I i). ivr ll (inil mi til. n.'iili In t 'iiin ti 1 nn.iii.i \\ In, ii 1 ■! ll. 1.1 • ni.l I li ll |i' ni. i ' ' n i In ii il (i . .in til, 111' ll ! in.i ill ilin 1 f nil 1 111.' n.'i ' ll . ."I ii. i n Im li n i! ll.. 1 1 ..I I 111 I i in 1 1 i,' .'lit \i 1 I ,1, , II III', t 1 11, 1 '1' It 111 n , I I'll r\ I' i|\ In llii' 1 ititii,!,' , .1 . n In )' illm . ( | ni. i I. i 'niiinl \ 1. !>,' 11,1 i),iiilil tliu it \^ 1 ill. nn ni,l , 'H nli i it 'i iiinif ^•i n. II K ililn ni^i nil >■ ii( i li. ii i in -i. \ ..( 1 1. ii il il. ■ ini i i. .itm r ; I 1 •< )l >x •»<; iiii|i-i>.l n tnii'.t 1 ninn 1, il'ln in tuiiin n) in ill \-i, \ in Iviliin. >\ .III \\ I 'in Iin n \ |i|.«iniil niih 1>» 'ill j i| in '11111 \\>u\ ti' li:U 1' t>i-iMi 1 il'i nil I'\ V 1 1 t II \ < iiiii I i mm 1 111 Hill ml :)i ,1 iiTix mill's, NxnliiMit >> Ini 1\ In- himim i niilil limn vn) '■li.ll iM l\i''-'-\ \ ' »" ", (liMll ill.' •;i'l Inl III' III li'l i'\nii' Ml")! r\ iM| 1 111' ' . ■ ■ , I't I , 'i"i M-^l i"> '> nil 111! I III' I n 1','nir ■ sr(> >. \ht<. 11I1I nilil !lMl> 1l!l\ ll lint ' ' !l li'ilnn ii( ll |i l'rt\Xi-i-n 1I10 <.|i,>ni Mil,! \;». ■■ Ml llin: 11 ilnplni ilMn ^Mll^U!_'^. rtMii 1I ni:i\ l-i' 1 iiii--ii1iM n.l m iml x^niili llin >>'iilr 1.' .",>> nil l.nii'.i ,iii tills | ru invi1ii x in>\ nl Hniiin -^ \^\\ iin.) llin «.]\v !'i' 1 ln»r1 ii( l^-n I'inil" lln' )Minn\i> nl-nui llin 'liip. fi >,s'«. I ,',1 )-\ :\ wliiln tislii'i. ilm .mi1\ mlii m nn iliil, llir volo ^i^iS'i 'iiiM ^ nt •i-'Kim's ^I nnni miiis ;in,| ilmiiMt Nsn;i''. iiJ tri\ v,-,'n oniv l-x \]\ \ nw i- nuil liiinns llni.', lb(' livi.lm.i.: ni.'in. wliilo nil llii' imIiim imIiiims \>i'in mi ;.'N iMs. ilu'ii liinniM . wwA u'."iM;tMi ol \\ l\;ii \\ m-w .v.i''ni', nn, »ln. 1, IV nol llir li-^ntil 1 usIimu in .1 in:>n nl \\ 11 \\ linii ll;.^ v'iup IV s^iViM).; !»Nn\ii r.1.1 t.ii,i ii> v_,-i ni;i ,\i \ 'inirv-iiM "-^iiiiiiil. " ll ln'i !iiui> p.Ntv«^*i\' v)\ V |\.ivs. • i.> v.miil iMii nl 1I11S il.'iin'.iM niM 1-i',^' , w ' , \\ ,' \\ ,' ■,- r;-iilii\ nJ, I'l'Mn- \> illnii it mI'iM •» • ' I'M ■>» \ • ' nt (• M ii» 'f I I ' ' M I") til III M 11 '•' I' •" tl mJ,.,| >n,.in. I.I I ,1 .,, ' ' 'I III! I. , , I't I 'I . , II Him t ''m « ;. ..i ,.,. ' nun. .1 iH..| "I . Mp.. .1 tll.< MM. ,1 ( I ..I. , , ,, I I., . .,,,,1, "I '' '' '* .'. . II I II. 1.1. ,1 MM ■ I ill I,, t ,,l,,, ' ' " >l . I It . .Ill ' l< 1.1. Il u I! ' '1 .11 ... I . ,1 ' 1 I. 1 >.l||l|.| ..ll t II .) Ill, I. if 1.' II'M I/. •(till II r ii| III I'll l'\ 'Jtllipil •Mil. I'M.' Ill) M.ll I'.l nl.| Inn r . ..i I. 'I 111' n.M It 'Mil. I I lli'l ,. I. 'I I >( ll i< I . Ii'i il.ii III. 1. 1 >> .'I I ll ill,- I ilM IV .VI In !IM.| til,. III til,. In|i_ i>n ll.'. I, in, I ill,. I .i.,.( iini,''< I li»i.'. "J \\ I'l i< I'll i>i L'.i'inj^ lilt. W III W lirii I I 1',', :lllli> ■ ImiI''i'I iillvi liMI It ;il>,M )< Ul , / .. '. '1/ "nil ■; " I 'll|it'llli I' '.I I ■, till I > '.|.)f|ilt ' '•idiM" lid) |» "in /'m I / 1/ nnl I ' ' III! I I l|. |i, I ii.'l 1,1 I III ' .1 ,1 II II , , ,,ii'i • ■ill lii'iltfi IHH t(.iil I .1 ll i I .11 I , |iii( |( • 1 1 III 1 1 Imim ( IMic I, .1 li'i I.. I It I I llc'l iihiiU'iII , I,-, ll lie I i|, \v I' If 1 1| I ' I ilii' i i •III I \\ itlliilll (lliiji 'till lull Im Ml" I' '• 'i'l I , f'l • 1 liMii . \\ li.l'l llli' •.illliD'i' I 'III it I." 'l lii'il'iil »'ii|f.|l'(' ' III till 1 1 ii.mr \ I .1 1 •! Ill I I'l ' .. I . I I III . 1 1 Ml I |l. I' I (.'.( Ill f| 111. . I ill. I II.. I l.( llll. lilll ll I. Ill .ll (III , , I,, II I I .\ ,, I I 11 I ll p.. ll iiln'il I .1 . iiiM I i.|i I .. . i . II III I M I III' ll llll I III Ml I I I I III' llll I I . 1 I ll ll| 1 .|l ill' III ,1 I III I I ,,| I ' , IM.fil , I nil I , mill M ll ll (,i I'll I'll ii. i|, II 1 1' I flidn nil , I'll, / |.,..|,.(( III .'I'll III.. I.'i. I 1 1. I 111. 'I III ' :,iiii|,|, iiirt I IT I I I,. I" I' I' I I I I 1 I 111 III- I 1 1 1 I I . I I I I 1 Ml llll' ,1 ll I, I, , , , .11 I 1,1 , I ) I y , , H li'ili I llll' \ II \ I'll III II III I 'llll I III ' III' 1 1 1 1', mil I. I 'iifi n III 1. 1. I I I" '". 'll. I 1. till \ iit.iiiiti'i ill ■• III, ll I,, I,., I, .(,,.. I ,,,,f "I 11 ' I 'III' 'I 111'! ''iiiiti'l III,. I t.in |,', I ll,, \ I, ,. "Ill' I. n illi'iiil ill. I. I I , ..iiiiiMii.ii 'ili'iii |l|| I ,ir nil mini l''iiM ■I'liii' I'l I.'I . .li'i II li'ini hiiM .) ill. Ill, I,. '1,1 ,,| •I'Mi.lliin lli'il ll. |.i '.li'ilil , 11,11, II ).i| I', I,,. ,, |i, III,,,, I ll .11 . .| III I n I II i.i 1 1 III.. • • ^ I In '• • I . II 'I f.'.i I" .il',. il.'iil ,,| ll,, 1,.,^- ,,, ,,,),( " ll" ll " I ' ' ■•■ I'l H In "Mil ,,| \ I, '.,1 'I,,, I 1 1,, |,,f "' '■ I'll Mill' I, ll. ill' ' 'I" 'III I'l' I IM, . "iiiini'i'l, ■'ii't •(., lIl'li' Mill ll' I. ...I., I .11 ill.. |,, , , , ,|,,,,, ,,.,.,, , ,,,,,,,., ,,| I),,. MM 'I lil"M 'll I "I III- I ■ '. . I.r|. I," I, , ,,. ,:,,(,|,|,, ,| ■II"' '' ' I' ''" I' . 'll" 1'1|'Im , '.( tin ■.'ll,,',.,|l :, ),,,„, ''" "11" "ll 'I I' ll" ll "I'l" I'.'l.., ,| Ml 1,1 . I,\h,, ,,t, '' 'I 'll "• III' ' ll'l' 'I Mill I I" ,,.,.,,, (,,, ,,,,. ,,,,,, ' l|>lllllll'' III'- I'l. I ■ ' III' ll I I,-. , . ill, -,,!,. .,|.,l,.,|^ .,._ (,_, ,,. ' I I" I I" 'ill' Mil. ,1. .1 ,1 ,,,, ,,| ^ I),,..,, . ,11 I,,. .,.,,, ''\ 111 |., . I|.,ll l!.|l ,1 ,,,.,., ,,,,1 I,,, .,,,,,.,. I,, |,,,,,,| ,,,,1 ,||,, I'll'' IM Ml', l.lli. "ll Ml- I,. I,,, I, .,,, ,,,,,,(,,) I,, ,1,,. |„, ■ " I" "I ll"- " ■■' I- . •• 111' I. '11 I 'MM llll' ' ', 'I h, f, , / (, ,,l,/ ,, ' " iH. nil,,,, I,, ll,, , ,,,,, ,,,,. ,,,,,| ,., I,, ,,,,,,1, ,( 1,^ ,,,, ,^^ , ^^^,| ■'' " '" ''" fll ' •-' ll" ll I' ' Ml. 11. I 11,'- (,, I', '.I- ),,, II,,. ,,,,, Ij, •''•■'I"""'"' V Mill I' -1, ,11 , I I,., |, ill, I,.,, ll, .. ,-^t |,,',.M. '• ■'■ l' ' 'III' "•'. ' Ml-, ,' ',,,,! ,1, ,.,,,. ,,| |.,l,|,,,|,. \^ ,1 ,.^„^ '""^ I ' ■! 'Ill' I M " 111 , V |. I, ,1 M, ll,l I nil- I, '//I,,/ i, ,.,.,. •'■"' Pl-I "^|il""'L "I I" llll' ii'iill. - ,,.| ,,l ,1^ ,1 ,,',(.,,:,|i / (,,| '"^^"' 'I'l' I I I'l I I'l I Ml, ' II -',11 1,1 tl,,. „',,.>, ^^ '"I "' 'll" ■ Ml" Ml. ". ill' I, I, ,, I I,, ,,,.:,, ,-,,,(■,,), .,l|.^ „^., ,„ ,1 '" •">! ■' I III I', llll I' I"" . ll'l : 11,1' I • 1 ,,',' 'I,,- pi ,,,. I,, I'l'l " S'li' IM I'lli IM / .1 |i , :m;" , l,,|| ||,.,l II,. ,,, •,,.,., fi -,t, as iVoiii tlif ' l»c>t aiitlioiiiir^' we liad reason to Ixlii'vc was tlif tiict, it could in- mosnIu'ic Imt to llic soiitliward of till- lalitiidt'. \s, ill iiiv iii>1ni(lioiis, I am also dirrctrd 'to l<'a\<' the ict' alioiit tlic l.dli or -Jdili of So|)tfiiil)ci'. or. at lat- ot. tilt' 1st oi' ( ((toiler, " 1 had oiilv one inoiith left 'or in\- op- er.'tion-. in which inoiidi the niu'lits are Ioult, and. accordiiiLT to a fair caliiilatioii. not more than two days' clear wealher ont ol'.-e'-eii could lie expected. It mav, therefore, with pio- jirielN he staled that I had onlv eiuht da\s reinainiiiu' to ex- plore the remainder of I'-atlin's liax . a distance of aliove four linndred miles. Of this sjiace iiearlv two hniidred miles had ne\ei- I n examined ; a rani:e inchidiiiL.' the >iipposed place • if the di-coiitinnitv of the coiitiiient. and that lo which my attention had lieen particularly called, and where the iniairi- jiars' current, which was to he my Lrnide. was to he expell- ed. It is, pi'ihaps, uiiiieces>ary to add thai, under these cir- • •iimslaiues. i was anxious to proceed lo the spot where it. mii>t he e\i(h'iit I had the lii'>| chance of >ucce-s. \i'\ niv nnxietv. on thi.' other hand, tl un- explored, even alter all lio|ies of a jiassaue were uiveii up, delerniined me to pei>evere a> I did. notwithstanding' there was no ciirreiit. a material de-r('a>e in the temperalure ot the sea. and no drill-wnod, or oilier indic.alion of ji pas-n-,., iiMtil 1 actiiallv s,iw the harrier of liii;h mounlains, ;ii;d the coiitiiiuilv of ice, which put the (jue>!ion at re>l. 'i'hat ! did so per>e\ere hecaiiie atlerwaiij a xmrce of i.'reat >ati>ta(iioii, as I w as tlirlunat*' eiioiiLdi to succeed also in explorim: e\crv part of the c(i;ist to llie xiiithward lo which ni\ alleniioii was to he directed. :tnA where I was li'd to expect thai the cur- rent was to he iiiiind. This was a much more es>eiilial part w ilhoiil Micie>s. or, al anv nle. wiihoiil altainiiii.' anv adeipiale n-^ulls. .\I\ opinions were mentioned to several ot' the ollicers after I had ,leler- uiined to proceed to the >outliward, and al>;i to Captain Sa- liine. who repeated on e\erv occasion that there was no /n- fiirt//in„ i)\' n pas^aje."" — !'. i;iv)-lii]. Tliis can only lir lookeij upon as ii jiitiiihle cxciist' lor )'iniiiiiii; iiway liitine. and is a iimsf cluiiisy pcrvci'- sinii ot" liis ilistl'Uctiolis. tlie ohviuiis iiieaiiiDif ot" wliicll hv liiis not only iiiiscoiiceiveil. hul misiiuoled. A spe- f ■r.^. ' In >l;iiul \i'('it- ry llit'so cir- lot wiicrc it -<. \('t mv lit' coast U!i- •(• L'ivfll l|[). iiidiii:.' llif|-(^ l|ICI'llllll'C ol t' a |pa--ii:^c, lis, aiiil till! 'I'hat ! ilu\ sati.-laclioii, oriiiu' r\crv ti'iilimi \\ as lat till' ciii'- -M'lilial |iait li-fivat ions, to liiiL:!'!' ill liccii \sa-t- s. or, at any s ojiinioiis liail ,lrlrr- aptaiii Sa- was no ni- 'xciisc lor y i»rrv('f- {)[' which . A spc- COMMANDKR JOHN Ho.-S. J-) rics of iiit'iitiiatinii. with regard to ciiiTt'tifs. njipciirs to hiivt" st'i/.('(i oil hi*; miml : ho is t'orcvcr hniitiiii: foi-. luit never <:ets scent ol", a current. The liords of the Ad- niiralt\- liad iiiertlv siiii^'csted tliat if he should ineet with a ciirfeiit. which. •• t'roiii the l)e>.t intoriiiiitioir" (not i! ufl/cri/ii >^. iis he (juotes) •• we lia\e lieen iihje to oli- tiiiii. runs tVoni the northward toward the npijer part ot" ()avis's Strait." And a'^aiii. •• In passin-j tip the strait" ("f' /)(/,■•/>). "it" slirll 1/ riirriiif shnlllil 1)1 i//sriiri ri i/, it will lie ot' the i;reatesi iin|)ortaiice to yon, as leadiiii: yoii direct to the opening hy which it may he supposed to pa^s frotri the Arctic Sea into I>a\is's Strait." .\i:ain, >• ir it shoiihl come tfom the northwest or west, it will prove tilt' Ix'st i^niile yon can follow to lead yon to tin' di-co\ery of which you are in search."' His failure in the discovery of tlii-^ mn/ hi 'ui ri/ rurrrnf is so far a re- tlectioii on his sagacity, as e\ery naviiiator. hotli hefort^ and alter his time, who has enlereil |)avis"s Strait luis expciielK'ed ;i cui'rtMit ot" coiisiderahle force vetting do\\ n that >trait : and it is now known that the water of the Polar Sea |)asses throimh several channels, and down the Sea <»f Spit/liei'::en into the Atlantic. (Ml takiim leave of Lancaster Sound on the .".Nt of Aiii:n-1, and procetMliiiq; liomcwiird alone the same coast, the following hore, in a >nial[ liav near ("ape IJyani Martin, with orders "to take pos- Ncs^-ioii of the ciMintry. in the name and on hehalf of" his liritannic majesty." with the nsiial silly ceremonv — tilt' more silly when the oliject is worthless, as in the present case — a harren. nninhaiiited country, covereil Avith ice and snow, ihe only suhjects of his inaje|)eciinens. and the officers of hoi h ships were e(|iially acti\e ami /eiilon«.." The whole of this coast, that is to >ay . from latit iide T,".' :!T ' to latitude (l-J ' .')] . down to ( ■|iiiilierland Strait, is peopled ahuiidaiitiv oil tho chart with ^reat hut iiiiproliiic names, chieily ■ Ailiuiniltv Iiir'truitiuii- \ i I u\ Al!« lit \ 0\ \».I,S. iVoin ,' '.'(iIImiuI ; mill, iinioii!^ lln> rr^l. tln' Icinlni v i*^
  • III Send li rniiiilicM. I'IimI In- iIhI liol nlil.iiil " ;i |)i'llcrl ;',ci i^i Jiphn ;i| '.|||\<'\ nl tlil'-i < nil .1 \\;is " (if. lie ^ax ■•) " nl tlic It-'.-^ iiiipiti I iiih r. Iioiii lis iint hciiiv. lln' in:im nhici I o| lhi< i'\|ti>ilit inii." \ Imai. linu <'\rr. \\ iis iMu i> 111. Ill' siMil Iti talvi- |ti>'. .(". inn nl n Miiall i^laml. \\ III. li was nanii'.l \i;iins"> Mniniiiiciil ; Mini :i lail^c iiclii'ii; lii'ini; seen almnl |li(< ili-lainn nl srvnii Ira^iU's liiuii tln> said island, I .ii'iilnnaiil raii\. Mi. K OS s. a I 111 Ml. r>irdinaii. \\ il li a pai I \ . w m <> dis|)al< lii'd In iiialvt' nli'-iMx at iniis nl il and ii|inii it. Ila\in.'; landnd ^il il nia\ !>(> so < allnd) \\ Il li sniiin dillii nil \ , I lii'\ asi nnl «'d lliis iccImtc Iniind till' ln|i llal. and a lai^n wliiln I'l ai 111 5|innl |ins-,(>ss|nll. \\ lin. nnl d. Minns In I'lli^^ll^c llin in\ad('l>J. i|iii<'ll\ \\ alUi'd nli In |li<- n|i|)nsili> sidn. mid j;a\ I' II I'IiiiIjM- inln llm sn:i n\ i r a inci i|M( n tills tret lll;:h. I'ailN '.('liiMti'd that lir Iniiiid this iinlinii; In lie tniii tliniisand lUU' liiiiidifd and si\l\ nine \ aids IniiL',. tlin't' llinusaii.i (■ii;lil liimdrcd and si\|\ mnn \aids lil'nad. and lillx mii' li'ft lii;di. a:;rniiiid in sinI\ niin tatlinins, and llial it had iiinn niii<(|iial snlrs. « >n I hi- ! vt nl Oct ohm. w linii in latilndi' (I .' ' .M '. iin land to till' wrsiward hniiiL; m si^lii. ( 'niiiiiiandrr IJnss lia.l nn dnnitt that tin' npi'iiiiii; was ( 'iimhcrliind Sliail that sliail \\ hii II almir. nl all nlliri > nn this inast, allnnl (>d lii>|>rs nl a pa'-'-aui'. " IliiwrMM." tlii' cnuiiiiaiidiM sax s. "We I iii'^s,-.! thi" «Mit raiin' nl ( 'iniihni land St i ail, mid sIi'tMfd snlilli snutlmilst ;" llial Is. wn I 111 lli'd mil hai !\s upmi It. Irll it iiiiinnli'>l ml, and stni'ind diinrt Im l-.n^land : and ( apt.iii! Sahmn ^a\i' nn s|^||. no mdira linn iihmit mirinnts and diitt wond. ttiid sw idl Irnm the Ui'i tliw .ird ;* l)i:t l\.>ss dm-s .jxc a masnii. and a siilli- <'imil mil', had hi> nnl spmlml it h\ a tntal luisi unsi rm - tion. as usual, nl Ins instinct inns, jlc s;i\s. " Vs the 1 si, (^t C >l>i'r \\ as till' Latest |»fiind w hu h. h\ iii\ iiisIiik tioiis, I \N as nllnw I'll to coutniiio on this service. I ua.s not ;mllioii/.ed to |)roceed up this slr.ait to e\|i|o|-e it." riu' leal ilril't. intention, and meaning' ol" the insiriic- .' \\ iilunil ;:'.\ .JU '1 .iirci't rmilra.lii'ti.'n t.> ("oiniiiMiiiIt r luiss'-i f-tiitr- nii'tit ri CMr.i.ii.; r.ii'tiiii SiSaio's i>iinii.iii iM' I.ui. :i--li'r Suiiml. it w ;h tl'.Michl l>rtt)T to l.-.iM- ihiit t.i ('..iit.uii S.iS.au' \\\u\-*f li, In dcisl w itll u.s lui I)r,,;ii1 Itiillk I'l-ci'.'V. (oMM W'lUlI Ktiiv llM 1-1. 17 iiildi V \< ill riuit ho iImI <>l tlii'^ < (iii'.i li oni Its Mill \ liiilll, IliiW in III II Miiall niMil ; Mini ;i III' ol sr\ (Ml I'llMV. Ml t' lll>l>lll( lll-ll l;i\ in;; Inii'li'il llii'N ;isi I'lnl liiim' \\ lull' 1^ In I'li^iiM' |»|iii'^i1(' sjili', lit 1' tlllN tr<( ici'lii'i ^ In Im< ' \ ;inU lniii_'. liilin \ iinl-i 111 M\l_\ oiii< > (i'.' " .M . Mil IIMMilcr IJnss liiMil Si liiit i'n:|s;|, allni il (-nuiiniiniliM 'iliiml SliMit, tiiiiiril mil i| liiift t Im I, Ml) IImIk !( I'll linni lli(« anil a siilli- niscoii'^l iiH- •' \s iln> Ui, ni\ iiisiriK l\ ICC. I w JIS c\|)|nrc il.*' till' lllsllllc i( I !;..•.-.•< ..ti.f.'- SlUIMci. it W.H ilr.il With iia lio t(i)M-« inc. lliiit, iillcr i'.i^Hi;', n|i nil imtlicf ■^cai-cli fur ii lllM•^:l^c, IC< lie llll'l niiW iliini>. lie W ICi llMt In trnilllM III Unix's >'//(/// '-n liinu II' In lie r illli'lll in il;-' Ire, iiIkI nlillL^cil In UIMlei' nil llll\ |ia(t n| the ci^tciil culisl iil \mciica ni I he w c4lciM cmimI III (»|i| < 1 1 cen'anil, Iml In j,,H,. till' ICC nil the 'Hill n| Sc| il ell lh. I nl the Nl ii| ( t, ll.l.CI .' \\ llllnlll CIlliMIII", inlii llll\ ilelail 111 M iclllllli (ili^civa- tliilM inailc nil lIlM \n\li:',e, llllil ciijlci linii'i |ii| as was |ii°niiinl c(| In llie rank nl ( ii|itaiii III I )cceiMhci-, I "^ I H, nil |iiiyiiiL; nil I he ships ; and, Niic^iilar ciiniiL^h, tin nihcr nlliccr ii|i|icars to have Ihcii )i|nlMntci|, Mill even I'ari'V, wlln cniMMiail'Icil the scciitid nIii|i. ami w hn was tint niily siillcrcil tn rcMiaiii a lieii- Icnaiil. hill was sciil mil the rnllnwini; year, with twn sliijis iiMilcr his cniiiiiiami, mi a siiiiilar c\|icilil imi, stijl as licMtcMaiil. Willi iiist riiclimis a, as Irnin .Inhli l!nss, nijihnn nl' the Uiilicllii. Ills prniiintinii tnthat raiiU mi Iih return was easily an|liircil. heiiit; nhlailicil li\- a lew liinnths' vnv- fi^c nl' picasiirc rniMiil ihe shores nl" Mavis's Strait ami Ualliii's Hay, which had hecii pcrrnriHcd i eiitiirics iiL-n, and sniiicwhal lielicr, in liltle ships nl' thirty In litly tni)s. jr IS II vnya^e which any two nfllin \(i(;lil ( '|u!i ■ A.liniinHv lii,«tiiMtiiiii-' \\ ■r J ■iH AIUTIC VOYAfii:;<. (•lull, iiciitlt'iiicii siidiciciitly liiiili-spinttMl t(i iMiucrtakc! to solvr tliiit iiiiti(»ii!il (|ii('stiuii, Jiiid |)r(i\(' the jiccmucv of (lid IJiirlriiili, sind llliis rciiiovc n /i/n! iVdiii tlir i:cntr|-;i- ])hy (it .Ndrtlicni Kiirdpc, liir ii pint (if tluit divisidii ol" the iiliilic ( i rci'iilitiid is now iisriTtiiiiicd to lie. 'riicctf is niithiiii: to Ix- npprcliciidcd tVorn the severity of the tcniperiil lire. Diiriiiu the th^e^^ or tone iiioiiths that the ships ot'the |)resent voviu^e weie in the Aictic sens, the tliernionieter never fell iielow 'Jii', ': the iicneraj iivei'ai:*' \V!is l)et\ve«Mi .'i')" and .'57 : no deaths took pla('( , and scarcely a day's illne-.s. I*arry. Iiy anticipation, donlits not that a ship, provided nitli sufficient food, \\arni clothinir. iitid fuel. •• niiirht winter in the hiiihesf liititiideswe hav(> heeti in without snlferin^ niaterially eilUi-r from cold or disease."' He very soon proved it, lo lie so. In faUiiiu leave of IJo-;s, it may he stated that the oli- ser\atioMs uaide on his sti'aniie conduct have relation only to his untitness for c(indnctinij the voyii<^fe of dis- coverv. wluMC science and acciu'acy were indispeiisahh*. In practical seamanship it is understood and admitted that he is sufficiently W(dl skilled, as may lie infern'd from Sir (ieori;e 1 lope's recomuu-ndation, as well as from th(> natui'(» of his early and various services in ships ol' war in the IJaltic. in merchant sliips, an(.l in ships traditic to tlie Mast lndi(>s. 11(1 (luring tlint Hiiiiiis Smitii's Mwisc, (,t" Old I'llx'i-s (»f that f<> iiiHlcrtfikc! tlic iicciiiucv III tlir ir('(»;rra- !it division of " !>('. Tlicro !'Vority of fla^ ■ iiionflis tliar, (' Aictic sens, : tlici general tlis took placf , ' »iifici|)ation, ifficioMf food, n the highest iiig I liar e rial ly t)(Hi proved it, 1 tliaf the of»- have relation )yage of dis- ii'iispensahle. find admitted ' Ix' inferred i< ii^ well as •* servic(>s in ■s. and in CAPTAIN' DAVID ni'CIIAV. CllArTKIl ill. TMPTAIN DAVID BICJIAN. JHIH. 49 A V, [,•'/, tor oj Ihsrnrrrii fnirfir,] fh,: North Poir, prrformr,! in /as Maj,sfii\s ships Dnrntkra ami Tnnf, itmlrr Ihr f\„n- n,>ia,l of Cpfain David Jir. has. ];il;;. y,, „./,„./, ,., „,/,/. '•'/ „ Sinnm,ir;i o( ull thr cnrln ,ill,mpls to rrarh thr P„r,/ir I'll f t/ir Lni/fi'/it/ii/s of thr K.rprditioii . 'Vnv. two ships appropriated to this service were tlio J)<»iothea and tlie 'rr.Mit, commanded, oflicered, and manned as undei- : lldlUnilKA. It.A ill I'.iichiiii, ( 'iiptain. Artiiiir .Moi-rll, Lirutriiimr. .Idiiii |)iikr, Sur_"'iiii. John JmiiMiii, Purser. (ii ur^c l'i>lii'r, A.'lruiKiiui'r. ('li:irlrs I'aliiicr. A(liiiir;iltv Miitr. Will. .1. Di'mIv, (Ii). ■ ,i,,. Will. (i. iiorliuiii, A.-.-i.ririnr.s. 5.» 'I'otal coiiijiliiui rit. TnKNT. •lolii; Franklin, l.ir'Utcnaiit nil, I ( 'oiiliiiauili r. I'li'ilcrii' lii ccliry. I.ii'Ut.iiailt. William IJarntt. riirstr. AiiJnw li,i,|, Admiralty Mat.'. \. (Jiliili.in, .\s-ir-t. Surir. \N'iiliam ('a.-tcll, Cl.rk. (icor-r Fitr, (MTclllanil Ma.'lfT. I 'iror..:!' Kiriiy, d.,. .Mate .lamr.< liijwdrn. Carin ntrr. 10 OtHi-.rs. *JH Sfaiinii aiiil MariiK;.-!. '■it* 'i'otal fuiiij]!riiii'nt. (, Ai'TAiN David J!i( m.vn was an active and enternri- .sing olticer. who for .several years had heen accustomed to the naviirafion of the icy seas in the neighhorhood of i>ewloiin,ilaii.i. and r..ceived his promotion to tlie rank ol coininaniler in 1,-1(1, for hi.s /.eal and g.md conduct on that station. ll,> also made a land journey over ice and snow iiearly across the island, in order to procure tm in- terview with tiie native island.'rs, lu^ I.eing the lirst Eu- r«P''xp..,litio„, 1„. was appointe.j in I--0 fo tJie (,ras. hopper, in which ship he refuriK-d to .Ni'U|.Min,|la:i.l.iind. served on that station till : -';: xvheu h • ^^;l> p-wniMled to th,' rank of captain. In .■omm.r 1 |.; '-> Ii no .\l;t III \ M\ \(;i;s. IVom liiiliii III' \v;i-. Ids! Ill the rplitn ('a^llc. ii ship fli;it \v;is iM'Vcc I It •nil I ul ;iriiT I In* -ill ot I )rrc nil iri', I ^•.l-'. I ill r II >i \ N I' l'"u\Nl\i.l\ cMlrrcil llic iiiiv v m r.iilv till- IIS miil->lii|>iiinii uT I III- l'(ii|Mii->('. iiiii' rt I III- sliips nil |>Io\im1 Ii\ ( ';i|il;nii I'limlcis mi llir s|||-\(«\ nl' llic rniis|si ul \ nsiriiliji. Mini \Mis wiccUcd III liiT. \r\l iiillit' I'oj y|t|iriiiiis lis iiiiiUlii|)iii:iii Mini inaslrr's iiiiilr, iVimi I -Hi l.t lS(l~;, iiiiil \\ iis III till' llcfl Willi Nelson III llir luiltlo of ( '(>|HMiliM^(Mi. Ilt> WMs ncNl ji|i|)<)inl<'il jiitnii: linili n Mnl III tilt' iM-illnnl : iiml wms iiiMitriiMiit nl' liir r><-llrii) plinii in tlu> IimIIIc ot Tnirnl^iir in I mi.'), nini iiUu in tlii> r>tMllniil III .:,i' iilIiicU un New ( >iI<';iiin in |s|.'>. \\ll(•l■(^ lie rtMinn;iii(li'il in llir ImimIs, \\ ms WiMiiuli'ii. ^M/,('IIt"(l, mikI lin:lil\ spnlxiMi nl. 1 Ic WMS prniiiiilt'd tii llic imiiU nl' inp luin III l'-".''.'. on riMiirnuiLl I'mni Ins lir^l ImihI Aiclif r\pc- ililKMi. Ill" was cnnsitlfri'd a iiniMJ nantical siirvrvor. well MMsfil III lln' ii^e nl insi ninifiils, ami a llinnin^li stMinun. In l"-.'! lie was iniiilc cniiiinaiKli'i". Lii I iTN \Nr Mmm i.i. was pioniotcd in the ranlv nl' (•(innnaniliT ni l.'^J>, and Mppnintrd ctniiinandfi' nt" lln- 'rnriniNt' inrt>-slnp al A'-criisinn in 1-^1 I, wlitTf lu> now is. LniTiNWT I'l; 1 ni r.ir I'ikimiv. i1u> son of l',> • •nniiiMit ailisl. wciil llii(Mii:h Ins pinliatinn in tlit> naval scr\ii"(> Willi i^rt'al crrdit. In ISOd. at Ini years nT ai:*'. lie (MiIiMt'd Lord Si. \ iiifiMit's lla^ ship, and served in \aiions ^hips ; was en^a^ed as mate in several actions; and was m the N'cn^eiir. ami employed in the lioats at the at I at k nl New t Mieaiis in 1-1 ."). and inadt' lienteiianl in that \ car. As iiiiuht he expected, he was skillt'iil as a draiiuliNman. wliic h he practiced on the present voy- age with i;reat sncce--s. as the prints in his hook testit'v. We next tind him as lietiteiiant ot the llecla.in I'arrv's tirst voyage, in w liicli he w as t'lilly (Miiployeil as dranj^hts- niiMi and >nr\eyoi-: also in assistim: in all lh«' I'ecpiisitt^ ohs(>rvatioii>. lu-iiii: "t Ji/i active and eiiterpri>>inLl mind, lie was next eniplo\ ed. in th(> years 1 -'.M and !>'JJ. to snr\ey and examine, m company with his hrother. the ii(>rth (-oast ot" Atiica. I'rom Tripoli eastwaid. (itmpre- liiMidiiii: the (ireater Syrtisand ("yrenaica and the an- cient citie-^ com posit m th(> I'entapo'is. In .1 aiiraiy. I -•.'•">. he WMs aiM'omted commander ot' the InMNsom. d.'st.ncd ( M-r \i\ n.w II) i!i • ii.\ \. r.i « '". II slii|i lli;il iilicr. I r'.IH, iiMvy III ('.irly I 111' sllips fill III llir ciiiisN \l ill llir Tiil- ti', rnnii I -(i| lit llii> liiiltin iitiiii: In-iilrii llir l>rllriii- lil illsn ill tilr I HI .">. will MM i;il/,rltri|. miiiI r liililv dl nip A ictic t'\|)«'- r;il siirvi'VMr, il !i llmiiiii^h ri". » flic riiii!\ 111 liiiiilcr <>r I III' I, wlirii- lir ^' SUM uf ll ,' ill tilt' ii:i\,'il \ rsirs (tl niii'. 11(1 scrvt'ii III i'I'm! actions ; the liiiiits III Ir liciitciiiilil k ;is sivillt'ul as picscnl \i>y- liiiiik IfslilV. I. in l'ai-|-y"s as (lrai!i;lits- lic n'(|iiisitt> risiiio iiiiiid. I I III I>-JJ. t(» irotliiT. the III. ( (UlljMi" a:ii! the an- :! ai \-. 1 >"J."i. !M. (l,'st'.!l,"i III!- a \(i\aL;r to tin- l*arilir ami UrIiiiiiLi's Strait, with iii- siiiirtKHi-^, aiimin; ntliri' lliiiii:-;, In en ii[»ciali' with llm I'lilai lainl rxin'ihliiiii-^ ; In k«'i'|t the r»|iissiiiii. Imiwcv rr, III ip|irii waliT, and nut tu i i d\ her lirini: hcsrl in tin- nc. I'liiiliii^: ill Kiit/.rhiii' Siiiiiid till' M-a clear id nc, nil IimimU Mil liuaid were inn->| aii\iciiis tu lr\ inra imrt Iicii>,t |iii-^ ;i"t'. iint Ins instruct mi is did nut adiii't nl' it. I le did nil lie cunld. which was, to sniil Ins masirr, I'dsdii, m the decked laiicli, ill which he pmceede^^ aluiii; tlio cDii-l III Ainerica. nnlil iin|)edeil liy a neck nl himl inn- nni:: to the nint liward. and eiiciiinliei ed wilh ice. In 1 ■-•.'? r>eecliey was made captain, \vhile mi this service, 111 which he reniaineil tu the year l-'.'~, anil pnhlished n \ery clevei- hunk nli the sliures and i->laiids nl' the I'ii- cilic. lie lias since In 'en enipluynl in variniis siir\ e\ iii^ lintie--, in winch he has :;reatly ili-.tiiiL:inshed hiin-eH, and has heeii tnr '^nnie \ears |iii>t. and • was pru Hinted at the same time ; went w ilh I'arry mi his lirst and secniid vnyaizes, and still i»'- mains mi the list uf lieiiteiiants. (iiniuJi; I) \( K inllnwed lip the service rrniii his lirst entry, liiit lias heeii mtistly employed mi land expeditiniis, and has highly distiniiiiished liimseH' hy his active, /eal- nus. and \iwurniis cuiidiict. on \aiinns occasiuns ot' i:reat. dill lenity and |)eril. haviiii; coiitrihiited mainly, and at the. risk nl his own hie. to savi^ those of his I'ellow-f liivelers, (•'lankliii and Kichardson. h'or these ami other services, vhiidi will he pointed out. he was advanced to the rank ol' captain, ami received the honor oi' kiiii: lit hood. ( "nm- jiare the prniiress thus made, hy adh(M'iiiii In the service, with the statimiury position of his superior cmiii'ade in this present vnyai;e, and llie coiudnsimi to he drawn is i'\ ideiit. (iioniii; I'isiii.it was employerj on Parry's second MiyaLie as chajilaiii and astronomer, and proved himself a \alii,ili!e and Useful ol'licer : he is now chaplain and head iiia-ter of the (!reciiwieli Hospital .\a\al Schools. 11 »/'^ Auciu vnv \<;r,M. Tin' iKiniitivi" (if flii-i Miyiii:'' •■•••IK"' Iki'IIi iiiiilrr |)i'imi- liiii' I'li'i-iiiiivlniirf--. mill \\ lis mil jiiili||s||)>i| mil il I lie \ imt I • I.!. I \\ ("111 \ li\i' \ ciil s iillrr II \\ IIS |M'rlniiiiiMl rolilrlii |iiii :iiiciiiis|\ \\ Il II I li.'il iiikIci' ( 'iiiiilii!iii(lri' 1 1 1 isn, \\ liu |>i i>- fiM'ilcil to llic iiuilliwfsl. wliilr lllf (lr-.|iiiiil mil nt lliis >\ lis III I lie lldllltCIIsl. lis |MiMiriil mil. lis iilrciiil\ sluicd. ciiiiir oiil iiihIci' iIiI- tiMlMll <-|| I'lllllsllllll'I's lllHII llllll III Itliss. ( 'lltllMlilllillT (•iicliiiii. iVoiii ill liriillli It is siiiil, (irrliiKMl In lining mil iiiiN iirriiiiiil iif till' Mi\ii::i> iiillici' iVniii iiiiiiiim lull <■ iiml lii'l i\ 1' i'in|>lii\ iiiriit. Il 1 1 III \ lie siis|icr|i'i| ; I in I I liri r \\ lis iiimllirr iciisnn. ns we li'iiiii liuiii ( 'ii|iliiiii rn-i'dirx . " ( 'iijil ;iiii i'liirliiiii iilisliiiiifil rroiii |iiililis|iiii^ Ills own iiHiriiiil. 1111111 II t'l-i'lini: tliiit tilt' iiiiitl*'!' Il I'lHiliiiiiril wiis iml 111 siiiliiiiMil inli'ii'sl Id ^'ll^ll^l• lli«' iilli-iilmii nt' tln« tii'tirriil ii'imIit ;" iiiul I iitcIicn liirllifr siiys. " j ichicI iiUii llllll iii\ iiiiiiii'iliiili' (-iiiiiiiiiiinli'i'. Sir .liiliii I'l'iinlvliii, liiis mil llllll ii'isiirc to mIIi'ihI tu llii' |iiililii'iitiiiii nl' n vii\- ii^c HI wliicli lie liiHc so (•iiiis|ii('miiis a piiil." ///. too, il IIIIIV III" MisjU'cli'il. ilccliiifil t'niiii II li'i'lili^ nl' ilrllf!l(\ . sn Imiil; IIS till' fiiiiiimiiiili'r ul tlii' r\|it'ilili(iii \mis living, nihl llll^hl ciuisiilcr llif liiiu' i.',iim' liy iillrr liis ilrii!',. Lit'iilt'iiiiiil lii'i'dii'v lia\ iii^ |)n's(«rvt'il iiiali'rials t'nr ar- iiiiiiliin: iiiln lilt' sli!i|u' til' a joiirmil ill st»iiu> I'litiirc tiiiif, ami liiniiii: piil tliriii in tuilfi'. suluiiiltfil it Id ('aptaiii |{iii'haii. wliii rt'liinii'il il willi tlii'< iiltst'r\atii)ii : Tlial "all till' iiitisl |iii)iniiit'iit tt'iiliiii's dt' lllf fxpi'dilmii well* lirniifjil tniwiinl ill pt'ilffl at't'itrilaiii'i' w illi his vit-ws :*' llllll lit" luliis. " .My tiiily I'f^rt't in iinl liasini; |Mil»lis|it>c| the |iriici't'iliiii:s (irmir iitifiiipi lo rt-iifli tlif I'nlt'. is tlif ]Mi\iilii)n til' niiiUiiii: llif pnlilif aft|iiiiiiiliMl wiili my t'li- liii' ii|i|ii"iil>iit inn ol lilt' I'omliift nt' llit« iinirci's ami scu- iiii'ii I liiid till' liniinr li> fnnmiaml." What ilt'liiN I'll tilt' iippt'araiift' til' tlii> iianativf ol' ii vn\ nm' iiiaili' in 1 -^ 1 " to tlif y fiii" 1 >!.'?. ( 'iipfaiii lif frhf \ (lot's not say : it conlil not l»f ililViilf iicf ol' his talfiit I'm Nvi'itiiii:. as hf hail loiiu hf ton' pnhlishfil a voyaiif m lh«' I'lii'itic ami to r>flirini:'s Strait, a w t'll-wiittf n volmiif ot'TitO paiifs. It appi'iirs. imlffil. that thf |)nl>lic wmiM not liavf liail thf jiifsf nt worU at all hut lor thf pfrsiia- sioii ot' a trit'iid. who casnally saw and rt^ad the iiianii- script whfii taUin;i a littUt tri|> in the vfssfl hf com- iiikIci' |ircil- iit il I lir \ t'lM' IIimI I'liiiti'lii ISM, \\ III) |l| II- llll Kill III \\\\H lit lltlillT llll' ( 'iiliiiiiMinlri' III liniii: Hill MlKMliiilr ami III lliiir \\ as nil I'liTi lir\ . lilt: Ills own luilaiiiril was ■litliMi III tlir s. " I riM.|r| •llll riaiikliii, mil ul" a vii\ //'. Ion. l: III' ilrlliaiN , III \\ as luiiii:, i'V his lira*',. • •rials I'lir ar riituiT liiin>. t to ( 'a|itaiii atioM : That I '(lit mil wciH lis views :"' lU |hi1)Iis||(mI r.ili-, is tllr with my I'li- rs and sca- inativc ot' a am rirriht'N lis tali'iit I'lir lyaiit' 111 llie It I'll viilimii' iiililic Nvuiilil the piTsiia- tlir iiiaim- M'l llt> I'OMl- ( MT.MN |).\\ IK IMCII \\. ,').'< piillliiril III ill'- lll-ll < haillirl. Tills lllrllil' IoMIkI it tii lir lllli'l I'sl llli;, ailii. as lllc InmllK i- ul a \ii\,|;.'r set lullll |i\ '^lAi'iiiiiiiiil. Ill- aiKisnl him, ami ali-v that |iiii' pll-i' tiMiJv It Willi tinil In Lnmliill. ll IS a Wril WIltli'M ami Hill Ti'-t iiiLi iiaiialiM', ilisriicimilififil ul ihr lrf(|iiciil, jTcmi ••MCI- III naiilKal ii'iiiaiks ami uIi-^itv at mii ., ulmh HIT ii'ii alwa\s iimltMsluuil im- filishnl l>\ tin- umirnil ii )i.|cr ; ami it runiaiiis Ii\r|\ drsiiijil mns ui llir maii- iii'i- ami InliiK ul llu- \ariiiiis living errat ilii > thai, iiliniiml llll ill.' shuirs 111' S|>il/,lirim'ii, lis sra^, ami i-l jiMils III' III' ; ami tlii'\ air ^ivrii iii sii rlrar ami Incnl a liiaiiiirr, Wilhiiill till' Irrlmiralltii'S prcillia ll y i'lii|ilu\ ml III llll' ili'-ri'i|it lull III iiliji'i'ts dl' iialiiral hi~^lui'\, that lli<- liiiuk Is Miiti'il \iu' all rla->s('s, ami may lir ircuiiiim'inli'i| as a iiiuilil lur tntmi'" \ ly a^jris. 'riiuiii.'li this r\|ii'iii, ;iiii, likr that ul' fills'^, was a fail nil' 111 lis main uhji'd, \cl, iiiilikr lliu othi'i', il was imt uwini,' tu any waul ul rxcitiun, /.ral, ur iiililli;:i'iici' in llir I \\ u cuinmamli'is ur uliici'is ; un thr cuufiaiv, thn twu -lii|is wi'if sii|i|)|ii'il with siiiiii' ul' thusr w llll, in liitiirt' \uv:iiii's, su ^rratl\ (li-tin;:nislirfl tln'in-^rhi's as tu iilitaiii till' lii^hcst sii'ps ul |irumulinn, iiiiil tu I'ci'ciM* Imimrarv irwanls. .Nrcd tin' nuiiirs ul l''raiiklin ami I'lark III' mriitiuiiml .' riir inslnirl lulls ilin'ctrd that thi-y wnr tu maki' thu hi'st uj' thi'ir wav ilitu I lii> Spit/.liri^i'ii seas, w hcii' tliry slmiild t'lidfaviir tu pa-s tu the nuiihward, lirlwci'ii Spil/.lii'i'i;t'ii mid ( iiffiilaml, wilhunt stuppiiii; un rithiM' ol tlirir cuasts, and nsn thrir hrst niduavui's lu rrarh till' North Pull'", with a siii.'i:""^tiuii, thai wdirrr llir sou Is di't'pc-.: and least (■uimecled with the land, it will Ik> luiiml mu'^t "lear ul' ice. Their instnicl mns un uhjecis III sriciit llir impiiry nn the \ii\ai:e. and jiait ieiilarlv un tliiisi' tu lie iiuticed un and ahuiil the i'ule. are caieriillv drawn up and in ;:ieat detiiil, the latter pari ul' w huh were nnlurl niiately imt called intu practice. The utlier piiiliuiis ul" ;i i^eiieral iiatiiie appear tu ha\(' ln-en care- tuily attended tu anil well descrihed liv I .ieiiteiiaiit. l>ei'( hey, w llll i lit rud lie es his reader intu the ( Ireeiiland ►S«'ii ill unlii'iny tjie inierest taken hy ihusi- wliu. lin" tho ' Mr. .Iiiliii llidMjw, J'. -2 « ;{ ?»., I n n 51 ARCTIC VOVA(;Eri. fir-t time, wlliicssnl llir sliip wdiKiiiL' its uiiy iimniii; lluiitiiii: iiiii>si's of i<-(<. iiml wild NicWfd the linulit sun iiiMuii^ tliriii ;it iiii. tilt' !i|»|)c;irillicr ol" *' nrcllitcct II- rid cditiccs. ;.M"Mttucs, ;iiid ciiMx, \\^^\•{'■ and tlirit' i:lillrr- iii^ !is ilwitli |)ifciuiis iiictids;" so tliiit, lie Miys. "it >Viis iiMiiil to dcviiitf t'roiii ii;inti('id |)lii-iis(M»|oj:y, iiiid sli;i|)t' ii coiirx' lor ji cliurcli. a tower, or liridi;i', or soiiif Miiiilar strin'tiiif. in the liiiiips ol' ice.'' So ciirly IIS the •,'ltii ol" May tlif cNix'diticni liinl rcarlifd (lii'i'ic Island, in latitude 7 1 '.'>'■'>', so callrd liy Stcplim Ui'MiH'I. in Idd.l. on ov near wliicli lli<' wal- iiiscs wen- so iiiiincions. that not trwcr than niiif hiiii- drt'd or a tlnMisand of tho^c jarm- aiiiinals wrrr captiirrd, in till' slioi't s|tact' orst'Vfii hours, hy the crew ol" a sin- ;:lo M'ssrl. ( )r the liahits and charadrr ot" the walrus, Lieutenant rx'echey ^ives. alter iVeijiient inlercoiirse Avith them, a very inteiestiiii; iiccoiint. Their alTeclion tor their yoniiir, and tlieir iiiiirinchiii;j: courage in de- Jeiidiiiii them, are I'emarUahle ; lait more so tlieir eom- passioiiiite condiirt Inward a vvoiimled eiaiipaninii. whom they will ne\er leave till carried oil to a place of satety ; :ind even the yoimi: ones on sindi occasi(uis will turn fiercely iiiiaiiisl llie hoals of the pursuers. Althouiih one ol' tlie>e animals was hroiiuht ali\t' to Mnirlaiid in Hill-, as we learn fi-om i'liiclias. yei it was hut the other day tliat the Tiritish Aliiseiim could hoast even ol" a stlllied speciineil. W'llv should liol the Zooloi^ical Society offer a price for a living one to keep the while hear company .' They coiilil i'asily yet one. A single instance will suffice to show the cai'ts and alfectioii hi'- slowed on their yoiiii^. •' WC were L'reatly amused hy the siii:,'iilar and atVectioriate fnii(hic1 of a walrus toward it-- yoaiii:. In the va>l sheet uf ice that siirroiniiled the >liips lliere were ocra-innallv iiiaiiv pools; and when tia' wcatliei' \Na-> clear and warm, aiiinials ol'\;n'ious liiinU would licipu'iitK' ri>e and sport aliout in ihi'in. ol' ci-a ,\ 1 I'i'oiij till 'lice i!|»ou tin' ice to liM-k in llie w ai'iiilh of the sun. \ walrus re,-e in uni' of thoe |>oo!s ckoe to the hill p. and. IliKlini,' everv tli!n_r <]niet. dived down and hrou;'lil up its \oiiiiL.'. \sliit liv |>ri's-iiiL,' it with its jlijijirr, la tin- miiin:/:' it movinl ulioiit llje j)oul, keejiin:; l.U'iAl.N b.WlU IJLCII.W. .>•> s wiiy Jiinuii:; ic liriiilit sun liiliii^lit. coii- iitioii, tiiid liv •' iiicliifi'cl II- tlii'ic i:litt»'r- lic sfiys. *' if isrold^y, iilni "iil^c, oi- .SltlllC |)iMlitii)li )i;ii| s(i ciillnl liy icll till' Will- ill! liilK- lillli- ere ciilitlirt'd, rcw ut' ii sill- r llic Wiilnis, ' inlcl'cniiisf lirir iilicctiini iirii;:(' ill (Ic- ■ n tlirii- coiii- liiiiiiiii, wlmiii (••' of siit'fty ; lUis will turn (. Altliuiii:li I Kii;:liiii(l III Wiis lint tin- (liist »'\rii ol' ' Zodld^icjil [) till" wliitr t'. A single ill'ccfion 1)1'- (I iit]'t'(t!()llil!l' \;i>l .-hrct nt' iniiiilly iiiaiiv ;ii'iii, .niiiii.'ils xirt iil)i)Ut in n llii' \\ ;ii-iiitli - cImx' to till- illlil l)l'()il''llt --itiL' it with )oul, kcrjiiii:: ill i.«t'l. ()|1 till' ^li_llll■^| |IJm\ t ■|||i 'lit ll!t li/i.n-.l, till' DiMilirr rfltM»'(l Ini' tli|i|n'r :iiiil jiii>iiiMl tlir ynllll^ nil'' iiinliT uiilcr; Imi. ulnii (•\fi-y lliiiii: was iii.'Jiiii i|int't, Iti'iiii^lii il ii|) ;i> lii'liii'i', ;niil till' It li'iiL;tli nt tiiii*- i'iiiitiiiii*-il to JililV ,il»i)i|l ill llir |Mii)l, to lilt' ^'I'ciil illiill.>i'lili'lll lit' lilt' st'il- iiifii. \\lii» l:im' lii'i' I'lt'ilil I'lir iiiiilitics ill tiiitimi wliirli. iIiii'IlIi |in>>r>>iil III iciii^itli'r.il>li' s.iijitcitv, >lii' li.ii'dlv iiii ril- til."— r. :;(», ;;i. ( >n the '.'-til of Miiy, the Wciitlifi' Iti'iii^ l'iii:i:y iiinl M'Vfn'. with lifiivy tiills ol" simw. the ships srpiinitt'il, niiil tilt' 'I'n'iit vtiHiii tn till' nurthwiinl tnwiinl .Minidii- Ifiiii I'iiy, tin- pIiK f III' rmdr/Anus. iiluni; the cdi,'*' ot' iho iiiiiin liDily (if ice : th-y nut here, iind serine it impns- silili' ti) pcnrtiMti' thr iniiruiniil lint' nt' tlir ic**, and tlit^ sfii-ii bfiii^ \fiy liirly. tin- fiinmiiindfr dt'ttTniiiicd nii j),i^>iiiU il tr\v ilii\^ ill th.il hiiy. in which tiit-y iiiichni-cd (111 lilt' .';d nt. Illlil'. 'I'lit' iff wiis in tlh' ciuf iilid upper jiiiit nt" i)n' hiiilinr. lull Wiis ill il rii|»idly dcciiyini; stiitc, iiiid. nn ri'\isitiii^ their iinclinriii;e here in tlie lie^innin^ «>(" Aiiiiiist. it hiid entirely disiippciire 1. .^lilu:dlllenil liny i- rendered coiispicuniis hy lijiir i:liiciers, the sniiillesl twn hundred I'eet iiliitvi' the sen, nn the sinpe ol" >l jiKiiiiiliiiii. Il is ciilled the niuliiiliL' leelieri:. ill'd seems, Ml IJeechey siiys, iis il" ji very slight iniitter would de- t.'ii'h it rroiM the ntoiiiitiiiii liiid precipiliite it into the son. The liir^jest ot" the four extends two or three miles in- liiiid : owiii^ to tlie :j:re;if rents in the snrfi.ce. ii hiis lieeii niiined the W'ii^uii-Wiiy . fmiii the reseinliliince of th»! ti-.>iirr> tn riit>; iiiiide liy wheels. Sevei'id ^liicievs sim- lliir to tliii^e were oliser\ ed lieiir Dime's ( iiit, the liir^est nliiMit ten ihoiisitnd feel in len::th hy two or three luin- tlred feet in |)eipendiculiir liei<:ht. In tln^ vicinity of jhe>e i.'eherus it strict iiliM'rvii nee of >ilence is necessiii'v ; the explosion of ii ^1111 sciircely ever fails to lirin^ down «)iii' III these mii>ses. Ali-. Heeclu'V siivs that on two iM lii-iniis thev wiinessed avaliiiiches on tho must iiui;:- liilici'iil scale. " 'I'lie first "vv.'is (iccii^inned liv the discharire of ?i musket at .^ll■|||t liiilt' 11 mill's di.-^t.iiiti- t'lmu the i:l;icier. lniiiicdi;itf|y nttrr till' iipml nt the '_'iiii. ;i iini-e reseiiililiiiL' tiiniidcr was licard ill Uk' dirt-'clinu uf liic icchtr^ (^Ldacicr}, uud in a few ,0(> AiicTir \ nv.\(;r..-<. M'cniids iiincc Mil iiiMiiciis)" pircc lini^c :i\v:iy, iiliil li-ll Iii'.id- liill_' illtn till' >t;i. 'I'lir rirw nl'tlH' l.illcll, »ii|)|h i-Iml.' llifiii- M'l\c> Im'VuikI llif l<';n li (if il> iiilluiiifr. (|l|iitlv luuki'il il|iM|i llir scriif, wlii'ii |iii'-i'iilK a M'ii iini".!' atiil rollfd towanl ilic hlinn- witli SIM li ra|>iililv, lliaf lln- nrw liail iini timi- to takf niiy priMaiiti'iii"*, ami llir Imal wa- in (•(iii>.i'(|iiiii( c ua^litd ll|i(iii till' ImmcIi, ami cnmiilctrly fillcil liy tin- .>ii<'(i'r(liii^r wave. As SMuii as tlii-ir auli>iilcil, tliry cx- a 111 inn I tin- I ma I, ami liiuml Iht mi Kadly >tii\ c that it iK-caiiir iircr.ssary to rr|iair Iht in mdrr tu nlnni fn tlif ^lli|l. 'I'lirv iiad al.'it tlir ciiriiKily In iiii'a>iiic tlic dislaiicf tlir lioat liad lifcn carried liv tin- \va\c, and I'liind it In In- ninrlv— ix Irrt." — I*. I.).-.. I. "id." [ii virwiii^ tlic •^a'lic ::la(irr iVnin a Imal at a di'^tiincc, II sccfiiid avalaii(ln' ! mk pliirc. which aUnrdt'd thciii the j:ratilicMtiMii ut" w itiicNsiiiu the cinitioii. as it wcir. nl" ;i sea icrhciir. an n|ip(titiiiiily which has dcciin-cd to lew, thniiuh it is ^rin-rally iiiidci'stnud that ^llcll iiioiisttTs can (uily l)»^ mMH'fiiti'd (III shdic. '• This (icciiiTi'd (111 a rcmaiUalily line day. wlicii tlw (|iilct- lics> di' the hay was lii'>l iiitciii||it('(l hy the noise nl' llie tiill- iiii.' hoily. I.iriitenaiit Krankliii and nivselt' had aiipniaclied «tiie of these stn|ieiid< ms walls df ice. and were eiideaNorin:; 1(1 search iiitn the inneriiKist rece>s ot a (leep cavein that was Hear the i\u)t ol' the irlacier. when we heard a re|i(a-t as il (»t'a can 111 HI. and, turning' to tlie (jnarter \\ hence it | >ii mi •cded. we perceived :in iniinen-e piece ot the trout ot the her;,' >lid- iiii: down Iroiii the hei'_'ht ol' two linndred teet at lea.-t into the sea. and dlsper.-iiii: the water in evers direi tioii. accoiii- ]>aiiied hv ;i loud, ;.'iindiim iioi>e. and liillowcd hv a (|iiantity ol water, which, heiliLr pre\ioii-|y Iodised in llic llssiires, now made its cscaiie in niiniherlos >iiiall lataracts over the tmnt of the L'lai'ier." — I'. !.")(;. 1,')7. .MU'f (l«'sciil)iiiii tlic distiirlmiuc (leeasioiied hv the phiiiiio ofthis «'iuMiiu>iis tViiLLiiieiit, and tin- rollers which swept ()v«>r the sni-facc of the iiay, and ohliued tlie Dur- (ithea. th«Mi careeniiiL; at the distance ol" lour iiiiU's, tu ariiilit, hy releasing th(< tacUK's, h(» thus proceeds: "The piece that had heeii d isenL'aL'ed at lit>t wholly dis- a])peared under w.iter, and iiothin;: was seen hut a violent lioilin;,' of the se;i. and a shoolini.' up of clouds of sprav. lilst* that which occurs at ilje foot of ;i trn-at cataract. Alter a shiiit lime it reappeared, r.iisiiii: its head fnll a linndred feet ub'JV(.' the smface, with water poiuiii^ iluwn Irum all [lurts of CAPTAIN I>AVM) IJLCIIAN. 57 • ikI t.'ll li.'.'i.l- >|MI>iM_' llll'lll- ' liiitUi-il ii|iiiii (I filWill'tl fllf liriK' til tJtUt' (• >iiC(('r(liiiL; (ll'. 'I'lii-y till' lii>;it li:iil ii-ty-six H-it." \t a ilistiKicc, • mI tlictli tlir t wcir. of" !i ni'il to lew. liii>ii>trl"s Ciin nil tin- i|iiii't- sr (»!' I lie 111 li- lt ,'i|i|i|°n.'ii'lii'il • niilrav nriiiic IMTM tint \V!IS icpiirt ;is it |il'iirrci|i'il , I' liiTu,' -liiU ;il li'a>t iiitii lioii, acciim- V a i|iiaiitity issiii'i'^. now vrr till- trout III rd hy tlio illt'is which il thi' l)(ir- iir iiiilfs, ti» ('('(Is : wlmlly (iis- iiit a vinli'iit it s|iniv, lilsH nl. Al'trr ;i luiiilifil I'ct't u all |iai-tsot" if; ami tlii'ii lal'iirin.' II-. it'tliiiilill'iil uliiih way it .hIhmiIiI fall, it nilloi (iMT, ami. altiT tut k mil; almiit mhih' iniiiiiti's, at l<'tii.'tli iici ariD' «t'tlli il . '• We li'iw a|i|>niarlii'il il, ami iMiiml it m ally a ijiiarti'i' <>l";i mill- in rirciimti'ri'lii !■. anil -i\ty Int mit ut thr ualrr. Kimw - in»' il> >|i<'< ill'' L'lavity, ami maUiiiu' .1 lair allnuanri' Inr its im i|nalitir">. uf r"iii|iiili'il it- wriL^lif at Jjl.tiiiO fmis. A hfi'iarii i>r >alt \\:i!it \\a-> -till |iiiuiiiil' iIhwm it-* sii|i'<. anil tliiTi' wa'^ M cniitimial 1 lackiiiL' imi'i'. a* Imiil a- that ul'a «art- \\ l|i|i. Ill I a-i" nil 'I I, I r.|||i|pn->r. liS tlir r-i a | n ' i>! Ii\i'il ( ri >|i til it'll ) nil." — I'. I"i~. I'l'!. >Ir. IIi'I'cIm'j- (•iiiilinii-i wlinf ha-. t"i('i|iiriii|y hrt'ti I'lniiiil nipl iiiiliri'ij - the Mii|ilin'«.«< ni' tin- triii|icratiin' on tlio w»'>t»'rn coiioi of S|iit/,lM'ri:('ii, tlu'i*' ln-in:: liltlf or no srnsafioti of coM. tlioiii:li t In- iht'itiioiiii'ti'i' iiiii:ht Im- only a Irw il»'L:it'i'< aliiiM' tin- triM'/iii:_' |iiiiiit. The Inilliant and livfly t'lfnt ot a cli-ar ila\ , wIhmi tlif -iiiii shinrs fiulli. with a |init' sky. wlmsi' a/iiic hiii' is so iiifnisi' as to tiii'l till paialli'l t'\('M ill ihc Imastcil Italian sky. alfonls, ill Ml". Iift'chcy's o|iiiiioii. a lull (•iiiii|i('iisatiiiii lor tint rlmiily nnd misty weathrr, wlini tlir hills an- clnthrd with iH'W-lalli'ii snow, and all a|i|irais iln-aiy and ilrso- latr. Tho I'lnliatioii of the sun. he olKorscs. in soiiio shi'lti'ri'd >itiiatioii, is so |iow('it"iil during' two hours on nthrf side of nooti, that tliry t"r('f|iii'iit ly olisfM'Vcd the ihrriniiiiu'ti'r ii|)iiii till' icr in tim olhii;; at .")-i .(;•,> . 1:7 ; and once at innl n'l ahl it rose to 7.'. , altlioi|i;h ill the sliaili' at till- sMiiir tiiiii- it was only .Ki . Ilcncc an- found varii'tics of Al|iiiii' olaiits, i;rassi's. imd lii'hcns. such as in the iiioit sonthi'in a-pccts tloiirisli in i;i»'at Inxiiri- aiici' : they arc line tmind ascciidiiii: to a con-idcralilo lii'ii:ht. "so that," says I'ccchcy. "wc liavc l"r»'(|iu'ntly .seen the reindeer lirow>ini: at an ele\ation of lil'teen hnn- dl-ed feet." ( >n accrnnit of the mildness of the tem|ieratiire. the shores ot" S|iit/.lieii.'eii lire l're(|iieiil ed liy multitudes of animals of \aiiiiii«; descriptifnis. •• rrom nn earl\- hour in the moniinj until tlie iieriud of rest returned the shores around ii-> leveilu'iated with the merr\' crv ot the little auk. willock^. di\ers. cormorants, yiills, Miid oth- er agnatic hirds ; and wherever we w eiit. L'foiips of wal- rnsses, l.askiiiL' in tiie sun. minified their playful roar with tlio husky iiark of llu; seal."' Tho little auks or retue^i \ t -2K1SJ»ES>;.: 58 AIICTIC ViA'AGErf. (lllf Aid' irlli) iirc Miltcil to he so liilliHToils. tllilt "WO liiivt« lVc(|ii('iilly •'I'cii uii iiiilijlfnii|>l('(| line o|' iIkmii »'\- tt'iiiliiiu lull liair Wiiy n\cr llii' liiiy. n|- to ;i distance of more tllllli !lll"et' miles, iinil so clove tooetliec tllilt lllilty lliiNe t'iilleii 111 one .shot. Tiiis livin;^ c()|uiiiii iiii::lit he alioiit six yiirds Itroad and as many deep: so lliat.allow- iii{^ sixteen l)irds to a cnliic yani, tlieie would lie four millioiis ol tliesi- cicatiires on the wiiii; at, one time." — This nimiher, lie adds. a|i|)ears very Iai';:e ; yet, when it is told that the little roti:('s risn in siadi multitudes as lo darken the air. and that their chorii-> is distinctly aii- dil'le at a di^-tance of t'oiir miles, the estimate will not u\>- ])ear to he exnuiU'rateil. In I'act, their niimhers dwiinilo into a small figure when com pa led with A i id nhon's piiss- «'iii;er-pi;;eoii. on the hanUs of the ( )hio. which, estimii- te(l oil the Willi: "' »•"(' time, he makes 1 , 1 l.'j.fldli.dUO :ind upward. Too much coiilidence on^ht not to ho ])lac"d oil ciilculali(»iis such a> these. At \'oi:el Sa.iu and ('|o\eii ( 'lil'f. hetweeii which is I'^iir Haven, wherein the ships aii(iiorei|. the surroimd- iiiil islands are descrihed as clothed with lichees and otli- rr ri( h pasturaije for reindeer, which creat nres are hero so al)undaiit (upon N'o^el Siiiiij; in particular), that this i.siaiid alone supplied the expedition with forty carcasses ill lii^li condition, the fat on the loins heinu from tour to isix iiadies thick, and a carcass prepared for dressiuj^ >veiuliiiii; two liiuidred and eii:hly-live pounds. Tlieso fine creatures showed e\ ideiit marks of ali'ection for each other, " They were at this time in pairs, and when one was shot the other would liiui^ o\er it. and occa- sionally lick It, apparently hemoanini: its fate; and. if not, immediately killed, wtdild stand three or four shots rath- er than desert its I'lillen companion.'" "This compas- sioiiati"! condiut." continues l>ee( hey, " it is needless to say, doiihled our ( liance of success, thoiiuli I must c(ai- fess it was ohtained in violation ol' our hetler feeliu;Ls." These animals aiw said to take to the water freely, and swim from one island to another. Tin- hoats of tho Trent took four, wlfadi they wished to retain alive; hut tliev were so wild that thev hroke their slender liiuhs, and intlicted other .-erious wounds, so that ii liccame ne- rcssury to put an cud to llieir sulleiin^s hy Ki'iiiiL iheui. CM'TAIV DWIl) r.r( IIW. 59 s, lliat " wo dt" tlicrli «'X- dislaiicc (»!" r tlial thirty III iiiii:lit l)(> tllilt. ullitw- )lll(l l)(> I'dUl' lie tiiiif." — : yet. wln'ii iiiltitiiiirs as istiiictly aii- • will not a|t- tcrs iii<; ids. Tht'so lion loi' cai li ', and wlii'ii t , am! occa- : and. if not r sliots I'atli- is (diiipas- ni'cdio>s to I must con- r tt'cJiiitis." iVfrly, and imhIs ot tlio II alive ; Imt ndiT linilis, In canif nt'- \i'!iKi: tht'iu. At uiir ol' tin- i^lrts iirar \'oi;td Saiii: Wfrt- also tim Kinu liidcr duck-;, in >i!cli niiiiilifi-s that il wa^ ini|ios>i- lilc. aliiio-t. to walk without trfadiiiu on 1 1 n-ir iii'-«t-'. which thi'V dct'i'iidcd w ith di'trfiiiiiu'd i-t'>o|utioM. Jl'diivfii oil' li\ l'n\cv or other larue aiiiiiial-.. tlioy ha'o (ilTensiv (• ;i imtiire. the lo\es would liof tipiicli the ('u:i:s tainted with il. I''o\es and hears are e\ervwhere loiind on the shiH'e and on the ice ; and tin* >e;i aliiiiit .'>|)il/.lier:^en i-> as much alive a> the lainl. Iroiii the III il lilt III le (il'liiii ::er me ->ler-.. stroll t jauL""''- nialmoiik--, kiiliwake^. and the re>-t of the i^iil! Irili' , while the ain- jihifiiiiiis ;iiiiiii;i|s and the ll-h eiili\en hmli the ice and the w aler. Iron I the liiiije w hale to 'lie minute i lio on w liicli il t'reds. swallowing |»erha|)-> a million at a meiithl'iil. In tiii> re--|iecl ot'animal hie. the Arctic regions oi'the i:lolpe e>seiiliall\ ditler timn those within the .\ntarlillnes-. silence, and xilitiide. < Ml the 7th of .lime the ships lel't Alaudaleiia Hay, and were ham|)eied with rraL'meiits of ice. Usually call- ed lii-ii.^li-iri , whi(di. as they proceeded, hecami» thicker and inure solid, and. indeed, impeiietrahle : hut a hr^e/.e opeiii'd and dispers'-d it. id ( ai'rie*! the shi|)s into clear \\aler. In ^joinir wc'-terly they tell in with several Aviiale ships, hy which they learned that the ice in that, ((iiarter was cpiite compac!. and that til'teeii vessels wern liesct III it. IJnchaii, therefore, stood t«» the northward. 'I'hi'V passed ( loveii ('Mil' — a remarkiihle. isolateil rock, whuli marks the iioi lliwestern iiuiindary ol' Spit/.lier^'eii -—and also Ked Ihiy. when they were stepped hy the ice clo^iii:: the channel hetVNeeii it and the shore, and he- caiiie lirmly li\ed. Hy :;rcat exertions. howe\i'r. they 'j.i>l into the lloe ot' ice. where they remained thirteen da\ s. w hen the lield he^aii to separate, and to set to iIk^ southward, at the rati' of three miles sm hour, and the ships Pill into an open Sea. where, however. lhe\ wero not loim perimtled to remain, and took shflter iii Tair J laveii. I'iiidiiiL'. from the \iew' afforded hy thi- hills, that the ice w as driving,' to tlie iiorihw aid. they a::aiii put to sea on the 'Jth of July, uijil sailed a^ I'ur us cU lo' M., wliero 1^ 60 AKCTIC \ ()V.\(;i:.-:. tlic siiMH' iiripciictriiMc li;:ri-ii!' rihvtruclrd ilicir .iiitlicr proirrrss. < )n the I'mHowiiil; (Ii_\. Iiu\vr\ ••!•. sn i;i|ii(| liinl hi'cii tlif iiKitiiiii (iT llic ice (iiinii'j: llif iii^lit. lli;it clinii- lifls it[ water wrn- dlKt-rvcd in (•\ri_\ (|iiarlcr. iiiid the wind Wiis f"a\()i!dilc I'.ir ixncc'djiii; idniiL' ts wonld hear, and was ciioci-ruily lol- ](»wrd hy liis rntri'prisini: <'onsoit. to the ifrciit joy ol" all on hoai'd. In ilio fvrninu. liow fvor. tin- (diMiituds Ix'j^ini to dost' ai^ain. and tiio vessels wt •(• soon hesef and press- ed close liy the paeKed ice. This was the end t>[ their V(»yai:e northward, and the latitude Liainerj was so .'!r IS. In sain they lahored two days in dra'^udii!,' the ves- sels with ropi's and iee-Jiiichors ; I'or, thoni:h they liad left the ice hehind them, the cnrrenf had carried them hack to the sonthwanl three miles, and it was clear that all iiltenipis to uet one nnle farther to the northward wonld be \ain. ('a|)tain Uncliini heiiiii nt»w satisfied that he hud i^iven the ice a fair Jrial in the viciifity ol Spit/heriien, resolved on standing: (»ver toward the coast of (Jreenland. Ilav- ini: sncceeded in uettinii the ships to the ed^e ot' the ])!icl\, and sailiiiii aloiiij; it. a violent uale ot" wind came on so suddenly tliat they wer(> at once redncetl to stoi'm- staysails. 'I'ho ice was setting fast npon them, and the .l)orotliea heiiii:; nearest to it, in order to escape innne- (hate shi|)wrecl\. it was deemed necessiiry to take retniio jmniiiii it. The Trent follow ed her example, and dashed into the •• nnhroken line (d fniious hreakei's. in wliicli innnense |)ieces ot' ice wer<' heavini; and sMltsidinii with the waves, and dashiiiy: toiretlier wit h a violence which jiotlmni. a|)parently. lait a solid body cnnid with^-tand. occasioninii siicli ii noise that u was with the ;:reatest dilficnlty we <-oiild miike onr orders lieanl hy the crew." " No laiiynai;*',"' he says. •• I am convinced, can convev an adeipiate idea of the teriitic iii'inidenr ot llie elfect, now piodiiced hy the collision of the ice and the ten.pest- Uous ocean." Iiiit when tile mrtmenr arrived tliat the streni,fth o( the little hark was io he placed in competition with that (if thfi ^reat icy continent, and donhls miyht rea^onahly liiive arisen of iicr siir\iviiiir (h,. iint'(|,ii.il conlhct. iho IM'T.\I\ 1)A\ lit IJUCII AN. ()1 l!ii'ii- .iiirlin- . sii Ciiidd IiikI ht. th.'it rliaii- iitf'C. iiiid the L! <>||(> ot' fl|(> !l IMUIIICIlt ill \!is. s|)i'c!i(liii(i; ■lif't'rt'iilly tul- ifiit jny of iill iMiirit'ls hc^iin set ;iii(i prcss- ' fiid i»f their I \v;is Kd ;;r [ilh\ii tlif vrs- I tlu'v hfid left I'd them li;iclv clciir thiit all liward would he iiad ;;iv('ii "iii'ii. rcsctKed iiliiiid. Ila\- cilil*^ <>l tin- viiid ciimc (»ii 0(1 t(» stoi'in- Ik'III. Mild tllM s(!t|H' iiniiif- I) take r<'l'ii^e 1'. and dashed 'IS. ill which ilisiditii; with tieiicc which d with^taiid, the !:i'eatest V the crew." , call coiivev )i the eHei'l, the teii.|>est- stionutli of >ii with that If reasonnhly cotidiet. U'O rrew |ire>ei-veil the iireatest calmness and res(»hiti()n. ( 'a|tlam IJeechey says : •• ll'rMT the liiililiide et .-eaiiii'ii w a > DiiiU tried, it was as- >iuic(ll\ iini |i'«s Ml mi Miis ncca>iiiii ; and I will iint ((iiicral till' niiil"' I ti'lt ill w iliies>iiii.' llie hold and dr(i>i\e tunc in vslncli the orders were i»ued hy llie coiMiiiander 't diir little M--el \ i'raiiklin >. and the iiroiii|ititiide and >Ie,idiiie.-.s willi wiliih tllev were exerilled iiv tile (lew. jlacll |ier.".o|l iii- slimiively ^-'ciired hi> nwii hold, and, with his eye> lixr I iijiMii the III i>ts. awaited in l)realhle.~> anxiety the nioiiii'iil, ot' ( niicii^sioii. It M.dii :in-i\cd ; the liriir. cutting,' lier way iliriMiL'h the lii:lit i( e. caiiie in violent contact wilii the main l)ni|\-. In an ■ii-tant we all ln>t our titutini:. the iiia>ts heni; with the ini|ietns, and the crackin.' tinihers trom helow |i •- s|tnke a pre^-nre which was cali'ulated to awaken onr senon.s a|)|.relieii>ion.>."— I'. )-':{. l-.'l. ''aptaiii IJeeihey jiroceeds to f;ive a most formidaldn account ot'the state ot" the ship, accompanied hy a ter- rilic and w fli-execnted print, descriptive of" her situation, 'ller motion." he says, "was so i:reat that \\io, ship's hell, which in (he heaviest uale ot" wind had never struik ol' itse't". now tolled so eonliimally that it was ordered to hi' mnllleil lor the purpose of escaping the iinpleasani, a^siiciation it was calcidated to produce," Alter a lew hours the yale ceased, and the pack hroke up siiHicientlv' to release the ships, wliicli were so disahled that the. |)oriitliea was in a roiinderin^ condition. They mad(i the hesi lit' their Wiiy to Kair lla\eti in a r^inkini; state, \vliere they repaii'eil their damages as woll as they could ; it was ol)vioii>, however, there was an end to any !"artlier attempt as re^ai'ded the main ohject ol" ili<^ expedition. The Trent heini,^ the less damaued id" the two. [iieiilenaiit l''riiiikliii reipiested that he mii;ht la^ alliiweij to proceed alone in the execution of the service. This coiilil not he acceded to, as, in the event wliieli had occurred, ('aptaiii r.iichan was directed hy his insti'iie- tioiis to take (■onimand of the Trent, provided her (;oii- sort was itMido-ed imserviceahle : had he done so, \\l^^ Dorothea, unaccompanied in her way home. miLdit have risked the lives of her crew in a ship so shattered and misafe. It was therefore decided that hotli shoiilil re- turn home; and on the .".Ofh (d".\iii:nst tliey put to seu, tuid on the ',»-.'d of Uctoher arrived at Depiford. J'" I 02 ARCTIC VOYACLS. ('llAFTf'.fl IV. PARRY'S FIRST VIIVAIiE. Jim rnnl iif It I'oi/i/'ji: for //n' P/sruriri/ nf n S'^rlhirrxf Piix.s~ !/•!!• fnnii thr Alliinlic l<> tlir I'lirifir. /{>/ W . I'.. i'-Vnuv, (Jiiiilliiilni/i' r iij Ikr J\.r jnilil mn . 'Vnv. two ships jippoiiitiM! for tins sf-rvirc wprc tlin IFfclii. ii liiiiiil) ()l '.',','> tons, and tlic (irip«'r. a larizo ynti- \)r\\l of l-'O tons, raised npo;i ; and tlicy wf.'rc comiuand- »'d, oKiccrcd, and manned as under : Tin: llKd.A. A\'iii. VAw. I';irry, l.iiiit. CoimiK I'Mjit. I',. Hiiliiiic. A^n'uiioiiirr. ]•■. W. licccliiy, l.iciitcnaiit. •loliii llihv.ird.-, ."^iir_'( nil. W. II. Hn(i|)('!', I'lir-rr. .AlcMiiKJrr I'l.-hci-, .\ssi.-rt, r^m-j. .J(iM |ih .Niii-. Win. .1. Krilv, riKirli'.- I'.il.ii.T, .liis. Cliirkr i;c» .iiiiiii r>ii>iiii'iii. .liiiiifH llul.-^i', rirrk 'I'm: rjRiPFR. .M;ittlii\v I. id. 1(111, r.j.iif. r'nitiiii". II. i'lrkyii.'' liM|)|)Mir. l.i»Miti'iiiiiit. t 'liji.-^. ,lii.-<. Iliv- lit y, A^r-i.-it. ^nm. .Aii.iiN'w i;. id, "),.,,,■ A. .M'. Sk.n... rM>'l>lHp- \V. Nrl^(,ii(inmtli^. i ""■"• t Cyru.H W'iikttliitiii, ('l^■rk. ' I'J .Mill' .•^(•iiini'n. t'l Mariiii'jj. it) Tutal on board. v-1 otriciT.". (iuiiiicr, liiiatswain, ( 'arpi ntrr, ( Jn iiiliiiid Ma.-ti r, ( iriciJiilid .^^ltl', Cook, t I.cadiiiir .Mi-ii, ](I I Hirii-ti'f .MasttT, (iiiniH r'.-i Miifr, llnaL^Wajn'.-i Miiti', ( 'ai|i('litt'r'.-i .Nlatc, .\riiiiirrr'.- Mati', .-^ai''iiak'- rr. !.'•,' .A'lU' .'Si'a'iiiii. H Mariiii's, iiicltidiiu "-' ."^1 rji'aiit.-:. 08 'i'otal oil iiuald. The most remarkable teatnre in this ex|)editioii is, that LfKi rKNANr I'aiuiv. havitiij; heen selected to the eonnnand of it tor the |)nrpose of carryini:; into elieet tiie instructions whicli Koss. from misiipprehension. in(htler- (Mice. or incapacity, had tailed to do, shonid have heen sent out as a lieutenant only, in wiiic h )ank he contin- ued lor iieafly two years h.-fore lie obtained ihat of I'Aiiiu rf rius'i- V()Y \(.i:. ()3 \ E. 'ttr/h/rrsf P^/.s-s'- \V. i:. I'auuv, ico WfVP tlio ■n"! c(»iiiiuaii(l- II. 1.1' i|f. ColliMl • ipriir. Lifutfiiiiiit. rltv, A.->ist. ."^urL'. litl.s.il ""•" m, (lirk. otty OffirerH. '\|)('(litl(>H W, fctod to lllti lit(» ctrt'ct tliH si(»ii. iiidiHt'i- |l| llMVC l»)'fll ik lit' cuiitiii- iK'il that of (•(iiiiiiKiiiiIrr: \vliil»; flu" latl«>r, fen* nn iiii|)rnfitiil)lf vdVMiiM n|' >r\rti »iiiiiirit'r liKHitlis. Wiis Milvaiict'd at (Hicr In tlio IMlik nl'ca|ilaili wliy, is hrst kiiiiwii tu tliusf \vli(i cidi- Irri (I It. ALiiiiti: l/initi'iiaiit I'any pniciwdnl mi tlii.s srciiiid Mivanf utdixcuvcry witli tin- laiiU or I'llc (inly ol" /if III/ iifiiit rn/iiiiii/)i(//iia\ i\U(\ (\\i\ not (ilitaii'Mlir next strp till tlic Hfh dt" NmvciiiIm'I'. 1 Jii. hcinu tlicii alistMit. On tlic same day, and wliilf in the service \' naval ul'licfis. Liii iKv wr i»K.i:rni:v"s sr/vicrs liav«» idiN-ady hpon i.iii'iitidiH'd : and llni'i'Mii continnrd to srrvc as lirn- tt'iiant in tin- llrcla on I'arry's srcdnd vnyatii'. and nn the lliiid was appoiiitt'd (•niiiniandci- nl'tlu' sccnnd ship, the I"' my. NiAsand |{ iin wrrc prn;nnt«'d tn thf rank nl" lit'iitt-n- aiits nn tht^ second vnya^f. and scrvnl in I'iiny's ship. Skt'iM'. Knss, and tinslinan were in the tirst vnyauf, and so were Alrxaiidcr I'isiicr, iissistant sni^cnii, and! Jaint's I Inlsn, clerk. 'I'liere (;aii lie luit nlie npiliimi as to the view in wlii(di the report nrc'ajjtaiii Koss was cnii>idered liy the iinanl ot' Admiralty, were it tn he inl'eireil nnly t'roni the in- sfrnciions ^isentoliis snccessor, Lieut. \Villiain lidward J'arry. in which the examination oi' the ^reat and open hav. Sir .iaines Lancaster's Somid, was ordered tn he considered a-; the fi rsl and iiios/ jxirliciihi r oliji ft ol' his voyam* : and. moreover, not sncceedinu in that direction, to examine Aldernian .lones's Scniiid and that ol" Sir Thomas .Smith, neither of wITadi had been exam ned, nor ev»'n entered, 'ly the coimnaiider ol" the lat»; expti- dition. The two ships or- (litiuii: live iiii(l>ln|)i)ifii to ilic lijiiiior sliip, Niiis, Doaly, I'liliin'f, ( hiikc Kuss. IJiisliiiHii : iiiid to llic liilttr, iJircf, Kfid, Ski'iio. iiml .\olsoii (irillillis. ('iiptiiiii Siibiiu;, ol' tlio l\()\ ill Aitillcrv. joiiiod tlio oxpj'ditioii as u>tanl surutMMi !,iiid a clt'ik. Tilt' uarrali\t' «»l this voyuL;*' lius supijliod, lor the interests ol" science and i:ettiiiapliy, ninnerons and iinpoitant liicls and oliservatiuns, and, ul)o\e all, has opened the door to the discovoiy ol the main ohject, the Northwest Passable. "In this work,'' it has been said. •• we lind no display ot' self-iinpoi'tance. no attempt to deceive, or to throw dnst in the eyes (»!' the |)nlilic ; no niiir\ clous sKtries to dis^nst or conlound. and make tlio iiiiioi-aiit stare ; no liunies set down al I'andom ; no chart-lines drawn (/ ice, and between it and tho WJ'storn coast of (Ireenland, and on tins M of July crossed tho Arctic. ( "ir( le, ha\ inii; on that day passed at least lifty iceberizs of lariio dimensions; and on the follow i nil day ii more ex- tended chain of a lai'iiei" size, auninst whi(di a lioavv southerly swell was violently agitated, •'dashinu; the lo{»se ice Willi tremendous force, s(»MU>tiines I'aised ;i \\ hito spray over tlioiii to tlit^ lieinht of more tiian one liundred feet, mid, bein:; accompanied with a loud noise exactly resemblinii the roar of distant thunder, presenle(l a scene at once sublime and terrilii'." Uotwoeii one ol these iceber:;s and a detached (loo. ilriftiiiij; witii a south- erly curiHMit, the llecla had nearly, as the whalers call it, been '• nipped," that is to say, s(piee/,e(| llat. The heru was about one hundreil and forty feet hiidi. mid iiiironnd in oiu^ hundred and twenty I'athonis, so that its whole hei'Jlt prob.iblv (\t ceded el, lit hundred tool. (» Into «'X|)()- Niiis. I)»'iily, liitttr, tJiiTf, ti Siil)iiit\ (it' (isti'onoiiu'i', viitioiis to lio sur^roii, ail ' an assist nut s voyaut! lias i^ciim apliy, nations, and. ovny (»r tlif this work,'' -iinportaiic*'. tht' ryos ot iir conrouiKl, st't down al I, : no re I )!•«■- L? i)rain ; 'rcs('nled kv»M>n one ol jvitii a south Iwhalers call Hat. 'I'll.- •t hiidi, and ;. so that its iiidrcd teel. PARRY .S riR.-T VoYAi.i:. 05 On the ,'lst tlie land calltMl, hy Davis. '• Hope Sander- fsdii." and also the "Woman's rslaiiil," were seen; and '•we I'oiind oin-s«dves," says I'arry, "in the midst of a vfiiit MiMiilier ol' very liiiih iceheriis. (tf which I coiintetl, t'liiiii the crow's ne>t, ei,i;hty-»Mi;ht, besides many smaller <»lie«>." pfiieiice ol IMC lormer voya'j^e niuiiceo mm lo iieiie\«) lie fact of our having: now reached the entrance of Sir .fames Laiicns- ter's Sound just one month earlier than we had done in I - 1 -. altlioiiL:h we had then sailed above a fm'tniuht soon- er, with the same iieiieral object in view, namely, to peii- etiate to the western coast of IhitTni's Ihiy. where alone the northwest passaize was now siipjiosed to be sought, liir and liuiiid." He omits, however, one impoi-tant, ( aii-e of his «'aily a|)])roach to i.ancaster Sound — that of taking the shortest I'oiile. instead of cii"climHavii;atilii; Jiallin's lliiy. ( >n the .''.1st a pai1y landed at tlie spot they lia.iiow had I'allen since Ids foi-mer visit. \ II . ll: 60 ARC'jrC VOVAfiKd. Oil tin- 1st (if AiiLMist lli(> sliips ciitrrcd upon tlinf por- tion of llic vuviit:)' which Wiis to (Ictrriniiic thi' success or liiilinf of the cxpfdilioii - thiil iim^iiilict'iit piece ot ^\ilt^'|• culled Sir .lumes ljiuiciist«'r's SoiiikI. An cjisterly hree/e iiiiii the iiioniiiii; ot' Uk' Jd. it heiiii; caliii. soiiiidiii;;s were tiiUeii with th»» dei-p sea ('iaiiis, and one thousand and lillv I'aliionis liy the lin«i w»Te lound ; hut the diilt heiii^ considerahle oil account ot* the swell, I'ai- ry helieves that the depth ot" water did not exceed eii.dit or nine hundred latluuns. The sea was open heloic them, iVee I'roiii ice and land. Lieutenant I'arry says, " It is iiKire easy tn iiii!e,'iiie lliaii to de-crihe the almost hit'iillileihle in eve|-\' couiitf- liaiice, while, a.«. the hree/f^ increased to a tresh trale, we nm »|uicklv lip tile >oiiiid, 'I'he mast lic.-ids were crowded hv till' iil1iri'i'> and iiii'ii iliiriiiL' the whole atteriiooii ; and an iiiicom I rin'd oli~ei\er, it ;iiiy ciiiild li,i\e heeii luicoiK'eriinl on .-•iich iiii octMsion, would li;i\e hern amii>t'd hv the eaL'ef- Hess w itii \\ liich till- v;iriiiiis leports from the crow "s nest wen' meived, all however liillnTto tavorahle to our ino>t sanuu- ilir l|o|ieS." — I'. :i I . They were soon relieved I'roin their tinxiety rospect- iiiy tlu' supposed continuity of land, which had heen stal- ed in the most peremptory manner to extend across tlir hoMoiii ol'this mai:nilii-ent inlet in which they were sail- in li ; liavinii reached the longitude ot" .'-^.'! 1"J', tlu^ twn shores here, the north and south, were still thirteen leaL;ues apart, willnnit tlie slightest appearance of aiiv land to the wi'stward ot" them. They had now advanced to what I'ariy has calleil Harrow's Strait, previous In which, how»'\er, he had named a lari:e o|)eniini <"' the northern shore ( 'roUer's Inlet, *• l.'einy anxious to seize. " says a wauuisli critic, •• as it wcudd seem, the earliest op- portunity ot' makiiiii some (•(Miipensation ti)r liavini: tniiis- ioriiieil, as with a touch ot I larleipiin's waiid, the nia_'- nilicent and insiiperahle raim(> ot" mountains which a t"oi- liier expedition had assiiiiied to one .'^"ecretary ot" tlie Ad- niiralty. into a hroad and uninterrupted passage, heaiiiii; liie name ot" the other Secretaiv." ' We now heijan to /latter (Mirselves," says I'arry . ••that we had fairly en- tt'fod the l*i»lai" Sea, and .so/no ot" the tnost .sanuuiiiv '1 iipnii flint |»f)r- Ih' till' silccrssi lic«'lil piece (»r 1. An ciisterly hips riipidly Ik I. it heilii: ciillri, (-laiiis. ami niic ■re toiiiid ; lint the swell, Tiir- »t exceed eiulit IS open hettiif It l*any says, rilte till- Jilniii-t II evci-\- cnuiiti'. 'sii i;;ile, we ran •re ctdwdi'd liv 'riinitii ; :iiid au I'M iiiicoMi enicd •d l»y the eai.'er- row's liesl were iiur niiKst s;iiiuu- ixi«'ty res|)e(l- had heeii stat- eiid iicruss the hey were sail- i-J'. the two ' still thirteen araiice nl" iiiiv now advanced it, previous t(i ipeiiini: on the ions to sei/.e. " he earliest np- r having tratis- and, the nia'4- is which a |or- ary of" tin' Ad- issai^e, heaiiii:,' now hei^an tn lad laii'ly eii- II lost sanguiii'J I'AUIIV S riKST VOVAt.i:. 67 ainiiiiL' ii-' liad even calculated the 'learin:: ""id distamo nt lev < 'ape. as a matter ot no \t'\\ diiticiiit or iniproba- l»lo ac(oinpli>hiiient." |»ut in an icy sea, and iiaue especially in narrow passa- f:es interrupted hy inlands, ureal uncertainty must al- WJivs |)re\ail. ilasinu pas>ed liaridw's Strait, a small island occurrt'd, hetweeii which and the shore to the noithward a tloe of ice was t'ound to extend. As this line hlocUed up the passa;^,. to the wi-stward, and they here notice(| a lar::e opening' that appeared on the south- ern coa>t. I'arrv thoui:lit 11 hetter to proceed to the ex- amination of It tliaii to remain lor an indeli:iile period idl<) III the western pa>>ai;e. It wa> Imnid to he ten leagues wide at the iiioulh, and no land M>iiile in the line ol its southern -->ai;e to IJidirinu's Strait. And as the in- let increased in width as they proceeded to the south- ward, it was calculated to raise their hopes uii this score ; liiit. to their i:reat disappointment, the disappearance of land to the southwest, and its place supplied Iin' a harrier of ice lieyond which no water was in si^ht, delerniiiied Tarry to return to Harrow's Strait. To the inlet he left he i:a\t' the name ot" I'liiice Ke^ent, haviiiu entered it on his royal hi^ihiiess's hirthday, the I'Jth of Anirnst. To a liay on its eastern shore he i:a\e the name of Port ihtweii. The latitude of the soulhernniost jioint lo which he had |)roceeiled was 71 .').';' ."Id", lon^'itude, I'd O.'i' 1') . and the distance ironi its entrance about TJI) miles. It had lieen observed that, from tli(> moment tliev eiiter- eil liancaster Sound, the motion of the coiiipass-needb^ was very slu;,f;:ish, and both this and its deviation incrtvis- rd as they |)idceeded to the westward, and continued to do so in descciidiiiir this inlet. llaviiiLi; i-eacdied latitii
  • 7.'i .•• they witnessed t"or the lirst time the curious phe- nonienon ot" the directive power of the nee(l!e becoiiiiii;.; So weals as to be coiii|)Ietely overcome by the attraction of the ship, so that the needli* iiii>:lit now bu said to puijit to the imrtli jioje of the shij)." \ I ■I ! > ■1 \ OS Aiurn; vi.v\(;r-!. It WHS tlic I'ttli ul" .\iii;iist lii'lur'c flu'V ir.'iiin rciiclicil tlir iinitlii'iii slinic nl' I >iii row's Sliiiit. ainl tumid the ici- still iciiiiiinin.; iiriMiinl Lcnpnirs UIhihIs. yrt iml iiiipiissa- l)lc ; liiit Mil tliiil iiml llic tolNiwiiiu diiy the wciitlicr \V!i> tliick. jiimI iiiiirli siiow had jnlli'ii. TlifV imw. nn the lilst. had tlic salisliictinii ol' tiiKhiii' iiothiir^ tu inti'mipl thric prn^ifss tu the wotw aid. Thi- msi was cntiifK rice tiniii Hc. and "so pcrtrrt Iv rlcar, that it was al iiKtst iiMpiis'^ihli' to hdifvc it tn In- tlir saiiii- part mI' the st-a winch. Idit a day or two Im'Iiiit. had Imtii cninplcti'- |\ CDVcrrd with (lues to tilt' lltliiost cslfiit ol'oiir Njcw." Oil the cvrniii^ ot' tin- '^Jil. after pa->- an e\iiil tiir \\ hi( li we liiid Ion:.' Iiirii Iciiikiii^' with iinich aii\iet\- and iinpi- tieiiie; lor llie ( mil iiiuits o|' l.iiid to the iioriliw a I'd had al- \\a\> lieeii a xmrce of inieaMiie>- to n». priiicipallv Irom IIh' jio>slhilitv llial it iniu'lit lake a turn In the suiitliuard, ami unite with the r oa^t nt Vnieiica. 'i"he appearance of tlii^ hriiad opeiiiiiL'. tree Iroin ice. and ot the land on each >idc el it. nmic e^pecialK thai on the ue>t, lea\ iic_; -carcclv a dmilii on oin minds ot llie lalter hciiiL.' an inland rclie\'ed us liom all anxieiv on liial -core; and c\ei\ one lilt that we \\cii' iio\% tiiialK di-ciitaiii.'led t)'(nn the land wliich fuiiii- the \se-i- rru side of liallin'.-- I^ay ; and that, in fict. we had actnallv «'iilcrcd tlie I'ulai- Sea. I'nllv impi'e--ed with llii> idea. I \eiilnieil to (li.■^tinu'ni-ll tiie niau'iiiliceiit opening', ihron.Ji \\hli h onr pas^ajo Ji'id hi-en cllected fioin 'lalliii's Ha\ In \VeHinL'ton ('haniiol, hy the name ot' lliirrow'^ Strait, alter my friend .\lr. Harrow , secretarv of llie \diniiahv, holii a.> a private testininiiy ol my esteem for that ijenllenian and a-- a jmhlic acknowledu'ineiil dm- to iiini for Id.-, zeal and e.\ertioii> in the promotion of norllnrn d:--t o\ er\ ." — 1'. ."» I , .V.'. lie then ptiys the c(mipliiiieiit of assii;nin'_f to the rajies. inlets, and uron|)s ot" islands the names of I iotham. iiarluw, and ( 'oi nwallis ; and u'tcs mi l(» say : " TljeiiL'h two thinl-s vt' thi' inonlli of Auu'i;-! had now elnpv- i lUiiiii rciirlicil I'tdiiul till- ici! t IHll illlllil'-SU- WCIlllltT NV1I> IIMNV. (til tilt- .; lo llit«'nil|)t , WHS nitin'ly lilt it \\!IS lll- if piirt (it till' 'CM ii»lll|-l<'tr- nl" uiir \ it'W." [ scvt'iiil liiiys ^ CIIIIK' Ih'IiiIi- lilt iciimit's III clciir i'Ncninu. lie iii;i>l lifiiil. >s,[\{- tin' iiiiiiii' ■ lirili'lill nt tilt' rvrlil I'lir U lli< ll ii'tv mill impi- ihwunl Ii;hI :iI- ■i|»;illv tVtilll till' Miulliuiird, itiiil r;ii:iliir "i| tlli^ nil clicll >ul<' >'l .(■;n(fK ;i (liHilii ■(•ricNrcl ll-< tl'ilii t|i;il \\ (■ SMT.- nin- tin- \m'-I- r lill.l lli'tllMlly til llii> i Siniit. fit'ltr ■iillv, l)nlli ;i> I ( 111:111 ;illil il- :i mil rxcrt'mii^ iiiiiiiit: to tln> >s of i lothiiiii. ;iy : i;id now t'liii»- I' \\IU\ rf FIRST VOVACF. (59 (■(I. 1 liftil cvtrN ifMxiii I" Ik ■'.'iti^liid with tin' iumlti'— . \\«« l|;iil hitiiiTlii lliiiil''. I li till- -< ;i lii'ilii; -.Iill liiiv- ij.ililr liir >i\ Nsi'ilx" I" iin', mill |>riili.il>l\ iii<'lllill Mr. tii riLc ilVN;iS In lln' -i ml li W :inl III mil |iiii_'ii'» v\r>i«'ii\ : I'lir |iri»|iri N. iiiilfiil. wiir iniK ix- Ihl.if.itiii:: ; Mil- >lii|i> li.nl Mitli'ii'il iiii iiijuix ; ur liiiil |il« nty III' iHiiv ioimi- ; ( ri'u ■< in IiIl'Ii IiciIiIi aini >|iiiit-<; a x-.i. it imt. • <|ii'ii. Mt 1i"i>t ii:i\ i.;ilili' ; iiinl ;i /•'.'iliiii> .'iinl iiiiiiiiiiii)>ii> ili'tci-- iiiiiiiit: III in liiitli iillii IT- iinil iinii In in^t'(| in tilt' Icilllx nl till- piiNxau'". !iliil III tin' ciiiiix' o| il \n\!iL;t' ol so iiovrl, M) pt'i'ilniis. anil '«o pii'rai'ions a iiatiirt' as this. It ix a pi»t ami wi'll-(li'-i-i-\t'il ('niiipliiiii'iit pa:)l liy a wiiliT in 11 pfi'ioilical jniii'iiiil, who says that, " alter ii most atteii- liM' pi'ni>al. we ran roiilidenf ly say. that ti'W lionUs siiiee the rniiiiiienreiiient ol° oni° lahoi'N Ii!i\e allnnleil ns iiioit^ tn praise nf less to eeiisiiie. ami that imt one has iii- -piieil lis With liiol'e respect for the ehaiaeter of its au- thnr." The e\pei|itioil coiitililied to proceed Westerh', hilt made only s|nw |)id'_'ress on iiccoimt ol" the detached lines III lie and lni:i:y Weather. To the nort h\\ aid. as lar a» could he seen. llie land was appaieiilK coniposrd ol' cl I liters ol' islands. To the West \\ aid the sea, I'or the mn-^t pari. wascn\ered With a compact hod\' of ice, \ el a channel was npen Inr the shi|)s hetWeeii it and tim shore, Hn leachin;: Sir ilyaiii Martin's Island, thn nearest to .N|el\il|e Island, ( "aptaiii Saluiie and Mr. .lames lloss, acciimpaiiied hy Messrs. Kdwards ami l''isher. were di-|)al(lii'il on shore tu iiiaUe the neces- siiry ohseiA ill ions, and It examine and cnlleii specimens ol' the natural prndiictioiis ol" the coimtr\'. Tliese oili- cers repnrted. on their return, that they landed nn n sandy heach near the east point ol' the island, which they loimd to iie more prodiictise and alto;:etlier morn interesting than any other part of the shori's of the I'olar ie:.'ioiis that had yet heeii \ isited. Kemaiiis id' l"".s(|ui- miinx haliitalioiis were rniind in t'mir diHerriit places ; smile ol them consisted ot' stones riidel\ planned in 11 circular lorm, and were from seven to ten feet in diaiu- il .1 1 ^aj ..* ^% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) m A 4is _> A^ % M ^ ^i*^ & ^ % ^ 1.0 fM IIIIIM I.I 1.25 I ^ IS I itf IIIIIM 1.6 1.4 vQ c^l °% '> c% .'>/' ^ ^^ o 7 Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WESr MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 4!j i^.. 70 ARCTIC VOYAGErf. eter; trncfs of rcliidt'er and nmsk-nxon wero soen in ii.fiiiy sitiiiitioiis ; tlio raviiics wcvc: covered wilh liixu- I'lfiiit moss imd otlior voiictiitioii, flio cliiirfictcr ot" which dilffi-od very little iVoiii that at the hottoiii ot" I*osso.ssioii JJay- MMie basis of tlie isliiiid consisted chiefly of sand- stone, Ix'sides Nvhich were souk^ rich granite and red feldspar. Tlio latitude of tin; place of observation was 7o" 09' 23 ", and tlie lon<;itnd(5 HJ'.P 44' 'iT"; thi; dip of tii(> HiaiitKjtic needle Hri '^o ori" ; and the variation was now lonnd to have chanifed I'roni l'2fi^ o8' IV., in tlio longitude: of iJi^ 4H' (wIku'o the last oi)hen'ntions on shore had been made?), to 1()5 ' ot)' 09" E., at their ])resent station; "so that W(5 iiad," says Pany, "in sailing ovm* the space iiu;lu(ted btftween those two me- ridians, crossed innnediately to the northward of. tho Magnetic; J*ole, and had undoubtedly passed over out; of tiiose spots upon tlu; ^dobe where the needle would have l)eon found to vary IHO^, or, in other words, where tho Noilh Pole would have pointetd to the south." In point of fact, though from the weakness and slugyish jierform- nnc(! of the nee(lles observations that, re(|uired great nicety could not be deixiiided on, yet Parry thinks that one of tlujse spots he alludes to would at that time havo been somewiierc^ not far iVom tlu^ meridian of 100' \V. of (ireenwi(di. The "spot alluded to"' was, of course, the Magnetic Pole, discovered eleven years afttM- this by Commander .Tames Koss, and which is only about two or three degrees "from the meridian of 100^ W. of Gi'eenwich." "It would undoubtedly have been extroniely inti^'-estinir to obtain such an oljserviition, and in any other tliau the veiy ])recMrious uiivi<.ratiou in which we were now euiraged, I KliDuld liave felt it niy duty to di'vote a certain time to this particiilav purpose; but, under pri'sent circumstances, it was impossible for nie to rci^ret the cause which alone had pn;- veiited iv, (vspeciiilly as the ini]iortance to science of this ol)- servatiou was not sutlicieiit to conipeusjito the delay which the search after such a spot would necessarily have occasioned, and which could hardly be justilied at a moment wIkmi wo were n;akinir, and lor two or three days continued to make, a rapid and unobstructed pro^M'css toward the acconij>lisli- ment of our princijial object." — I', (iv!. It may now be said it was well ho did not, as the spot, ero seen in Willi lllMl- w of which f I'osscssioii 'dy of saiid- \U' and red ■rviition wiis ; th(! dip of ariiiti(Jii was ir., in tiio I'rv'itJons on E., at their Parry, " in ISO two nie- Aiird of tlio over one, of ', wonld havo ■!, where; tlio I." In point ;isli jierforin- (juiri'd great y thinks lliat |at time havo of lOU^ \V. , of course, ifter this l)y V about two 100^ W. of inlo'-estinp; than the veiy a- eiiL'iiircd, I 11 time to this UlCCS, it Willi lint' h:id pre- i> of this oh- (h'liiy which vc occasioned, lent when wo led to uiiikc, e acconii»hsli- , as the spot, PARRY ri FIRST VOYAGE. 71 since discovered hy ConiniaiKhM" llos?, was then, as it i)nil)al)iy still is, iiiiapproacliai)le hy such ships as thoso (it anv On the 1st of Septeniher I'airy inseits in his naira- tive a tal)le showiiii: a daily abstract of tliC! monthly meteoi-olo^ical jonriials. c(tiisistiiiii of cohmuis indicatini; tin' tcnipcratnre of the air and the sea, state of the liiiidnietcr. pi'evi'iliiiiz winds, and jirevailini^ weather; and in this form ;i talnilar series is repeated on the lirst 1)1' «'veiy month. Krom the one in (piestion. it appeal's that the mean teni])eratni'e in An^nist was. in the shade, :>;; liT' ; on sea water, -'ll ' H.r. It wonld be desii-ai)!o that such u fonn should be kept uid made imperiiti\ e, iif all times and in all places, on board every ship of war. Tiie e\pediti(Mi continued its conrse westerly, anionj; patches (if ice and in a ioiiuy atmosphere, {giving names to sniiill islands, bays, and headlands as they occurred ; and on the Itli of September. I*arry ol)serv(>s : '• We li;id tlie s;iti.--racti()ir oi' K"-(is.-.inL' the nieridi,iu of J 10^ W. trnni (ii'eeiiwicli. in the latitude (ifr l- M "JO '. bv uliich liis iiiiiiestv's >liiiis inidec inv orders beciinie entitled tn tli(t siiMi of live tbnusand pninids, beini.' llie reward ollered by the kiiii:'s order ia (.'(iini\n\i of his ni;iie>ly's sniijects as ini:,dit Micceed in ]ii'iien'atini.' thus liir to the westward ^vithill the Arctic Cir- cle."—!'. 70. To tilt? blnff liead. where the observation was mach', the men <:ave the name of lioimf!/ Capi, a very appro- priate name, aftm* the iiallant eomma.ider had annonnced to them ofl';<'ially that their exertions had so far been crowned with success as to entitle them to this reward. ( )n the otli of September, after haviiiii worked their wiiy aloiii: the southern coast (d'tlu! largest island of tlu^ ^loup they had recently passed, the boats landed, for the second time, in a bay wlfudi, for its solllldill^s and shelter, appeared the most safe and convenient that had occurred to aiKdan" in: and. aecordinuly. the Jhiy (d'tlu^ Uirhi and (I'r/jxr. so nam.d by Parry, becaiia* the first spot where the expediiion had dropped aiadior since leaving the coast of Xorliilk. ( "onsiderinij; the advanced jterioil ot' the year, it occurred to tlii^ commander that this place ajipeared to mark, ui a vciy d(>cided manner, j i I I*' i 12 ARCTIC V0VAf;i;3. tlic coinplftioii of one stuiic of thcii" voyfmo. '• Tlio on- siuiis and pt'iidiiuts wrir iioistcd, and it crcalcd iti .js no oi'diiiary foclinus of plcasun' to sco tlii^ Uritisli lla^ suviiii;, for till' first tiiiic, in those rciiions wliudi had Jiithci'to hfCM considcrt'd Ix'vond tlic fnnits of \\\i-. hal)i- tahic world." I'ariy uavo to this lai'^i' island the nana? oiWIdrillr, being thai of tho I'irst Lord of the Adini- laltv. Parry d(^torinined, lu)W('V(>r, to extend tiieir opera- tions lor pi'osecutinu discoveiy in thes(^ rcviiions, tlionjili it heeanie necessaiy to secure the shi|)s every niu;lit from ten till two o'clock, when it was too dark to keej) under Avay, more especially as no trust whale\»'r could ho j)laced in the com|)asses. Jiut his hopes were damped Avhen. from the crow's nest, he perceived a compact body of ice exti'ndinar the point whicii formed tiu" western extreme of the isl- and : the ship^ ran, liowever, sutliciently cIos<> to be as- sured that no passai;(' to the westwaid could then be eflected, the tloes being literally uj)cai the beach, and not a di'op of clear water visible beyond them. Tho sliori^ was covered neaily with large masses of ico aground in four or live fatlioms of wat<'r, of which they would liave (h'awn at least ten if sot alloat ; tlu>se masses the people wovo in the liabit of calling ljer<>\s, but they wei'<» vei'v dil'fei'ent to those met with in IJaflin's J>ay, none of whicli kind weri' seen to the westward of Har- row's Strait. 'J^he hMigth of the night, when dai-kness prevailed in seas such as this, was little suited foi- j)ros- ecuting discoveries; yet as September is considiM'f i •) most valuable month in the year, on account of tl.i a being then more free from ice than at any othei- time, r*arry states his strong conviction that tlu^ ultimate ac- complishment of the object must depend, in a gieat measure, on the farther progress to be made this sea- son, and tlierefore he determined to extend their oj)era- tions to the latest possible pcM'iod. He soon, liowever, j)ei'ceived that the season was at an end. On the 9tli of September tlie does of ice were o!)serve(l to be sensibly aj)i)r()aching the shore, and mat- ters grew worsen till the x'Jth, wIkmi the ships were uc- tuuUy beset and in a perilous situation. Tlieie was no PARRV rf FIR:>T VOYAGR. 73 " Tlio on- rcalcd iti iis I' Uritisli (liiL^ IS wliuli liiid ; ol' llic! lialii- 111(1 the luMiio i)t' till! Admi- fiicir «)[)Ciu- liioiis, thoii^li rv iiiyht t'ntiii () kct'p iiiid(M' KT could l)H ivi'i't' diimpcti •d a coiiipai't ' sliorc, near lie of the isl- los»> to he as- ould tluMi l)o (' l)cacli, and them. The lasscs of ice f which they these masses us, hut they Jaffiii'M i?ay, ^vard of liar- u'u dai'kuess ted for j)ros- )nsideiv i ') it of tl.i . a othiT time, ultiiiiati' ac- iii a yreat jde this sea- their opera- ason was at ■1 of ict^ were ri', and mat- ij)s were uc- lere was no pns ^Mhility of moviii- liitNU ; a party, tluTefore, was .«;eut (111 shiH'^-' to collect coal, which had heeu discovered iiol far nlf. Anotliei- partv. rousistin^ of .Mr. File, ( u-eeiilaud mate, and >i\ men of the (iriper, havinu heeu sent on shoi-e. a hravv snow-storm came on, in wiiiidi they lost their wav ; not ap|)earin^ when iiiiiht approache(l, other par- ties were sent out ill search ol'theii! — no less than four; and it was not till three cold days and more severe niuhts had passed away that tln-y all ijot on hoard, most of them exhaiistei hv cold and fatigue, and severely t'rost-bitteii in tlieii )es and liuiiers. A tempestuous iiiulit ol six or sev(>ii hours of darUness, acc(»mpanie(l with stormy weather, without any shelter on tlu^ shore, iiiade it e\|)edient for tiuMii to (Mideavor to retrace their steps t-) the eastward. Other parties were sent out, and several days were passed in jJjreat anxiety heforo tlie whole of tln-m r(^turned. About tliis time, the; 1 Ith of Septemher, tlio chanij;(< ill the teinpei-ature was a very striUinji one, thc^ mercury iiaviii:: descended as low as to !)- ; and from tliis day tho coinnienceinent of winter mii^ht fairly he dated. Tlie iHth was a day of seviM'o trial for the ships. Knd(!avor- iiis: to return aloiiii th(^ land, tho hay ice iiad hcicome so thickened that, witli tiie pressure of tho Hoes without, the ships were arrested in their proi^ress, and unahk; t(J move a single foot ahead, and there was hut too mucli reason to appr(diend that they would Ix; (h'iven on shore, or forced by the lloes against the lieavy ice on the beach. From tliis time! till the "JOth of the month the perilous situation of th(5 ships is minutely (h'scrilxid, when on that day a larii(3 (lo(^ forced the (irip(^r (Ui shore, wlnn'o silt! lay aground on the IxNieh. At this tiiiK^ Lieut(m- uiit Liiidon, who had nu-eiitly recovered from a rheu- matic complaint, caused by the harassiiii; circumstances of the last fortnight and the iiicreas«id cold, which n^- diiced thi^ mercury down to lo', was hroujfht to a very debilitated state. Parry, therefore, proposed to liini to allow liiins(>lf to la^ removed to the llecla till the (iriper Avas aiiain alloat. To this proposal he would by no means listen, saying; he should be tlie last man, instead of the lirst, to leave the (Tri[)(>r; and resolute in his G i;' M 74 AUCTIG VOYAdES. ])nr|)i)sp, like a trno l»iitisli siiilor. Im^ r«Mii!iiii(Ml sojifcd iiUMiiist llui i('('-si(l»i of tlio (It'cU, jj;i\iii|L; tlm iiccossaiy (iidi'fs. 'IMin tiiiio wiis now moro fluin iirrivod Avlioti flio sliips, if possiMr, should Itt* i^ot into wiiitcf (|iiartors. A liiir- l)or lu'iiiii pitclitMl u|)oii, mikI, on tlio •jllli, tlio (Jripcr liaviiii:; ^ol afloat and ioiiiod. tlio two ships wcro socurcd ill tlio |)ro|)or position lor roimiionciiii; opiM'ations. A sailor is iicncr iit a loss lor contriviiii:; and cxccntin^i tlm moans of ovcM'comiiii:; siudi dinicultios as low landsiiini would voiitiir(i to (Miconntor. ( )ii flio |)rosonf occasion tlioy cut a c;inal thi'oiiiih tlio solid ic(> of tlio avonim) thiclviioss of seven inches, and coiii|)letod if in tliitM* days, llu^ whole length of which is stated to have heeii four thousand and oijilify-two yards, or two miles and one third nearly. In the afternoon of the '.Mith the ships were hauled into iheir wiiil(>r cpiiirters, with threo loud and hearty tdieers from both ships' compaiiii^s. '' l!:iviiiir now reiudied the station wli(>re, ia ;ill proh;il)ili- ty, W(^ were destined to rem;iiii for at. !; ;ist ei^'lit or iiiiii) nioiillis, diiriiii,' llii-(H' of whicli we wen» not to see the fiicn of the SUM, my ntleiitioii was iriini(>diatelv and imperiously called to vaiioas and important duties, maiiv of tlieni of a siiiuMilar iia1un\ such as had for the first, time devolved on any oHic(>r ill his majesty's navy, and lui^lit, indeed, he consid- ered of rare occnrrenci' in the whole liistory of iiavi^'aliini. Tlie security of tli(> ships and the pri'servation of llie various st(M"(>s were ohjccts of iimnediale concern. A regular system to he adopted for the maintenance of jjood order and cleanli- ness, as most conducive to tli(> health of the s wore the next important mat- ters to be secured, the thermometer havinjf now fallen h(dow zero. An ii'oii box, or air-vessel, with threo tubes of two iiudies dianuMer communieatiiiii from be- low with the extei'tial air, and unitiiifi abov(^ with a met- al box, was so contrived us to convey tlie heated air to ^ I'ARiiv H riKsT vov.\(;i:. 75 uniiiiiod soat«'(l tlin iiccrssMiy vluM) tlio sliips, liters. A liiir- Ith, tlio (Jrii)cr s were scciiiimI n|)«M'iiti(His. \ I cxcculini: fill* low laiiilsMicii resent ((cciisioii of tlie nveriiij;n led it ill tliici! il to liiiv(* heen two miles ami ;' 'JiJtli tli(^ shi|N ^vith three loud lauies. , ia all |irol)aliill- ist ei^dit or iiiin) »t to SIM' the (iire and iniiterioMsly ^liV ol' them of ;i devolved on niiy deed, he eonsiil- ry of iiMvi^atiiia. OH of the vai'ieiis \ regular system nler and cleanli- le crews, dui'iiii:; emanded my at- if the first con- to th(^ eoiiifort pi't^serviition nf ■h had hitherto and dryness of important mat- iviiiii "ow talliMi qd, with three ■atiiiif from hi;- i»v(^ witli a met- 10 heated air to the inen''^ hertlis ; and this apparatus, I'iirry says, witli ;i inndeiate lire, prodiie •(! a enrreiil of air of the teiiiper- jitiiie of -7 at the distance of s<'venteeii feet from tho liie-place. The (piantity and ipialily ol" provisions weio ti> lie l■e^ulated, havin;; re;iaiil to the preserviition of licjillli. An anii-x'orhntic heor had heen issiiiMJ in lieu of a proportion of spirits ; hnt; wlieii the weathe, heraino e\tieni(dv seven;, the heer would not ferment so as to make it palatidile. 10 very attention was paid to the is- suing of fnej, to the article of proper clothini:, and to tho iiiilure ol" the |)rovisions and little Inxnries to he distrihn- lid. In shiirl, the ahle and carefid manner in which ev- eiv article of sliijis" stores appears to have heen dealt out to the men. and while jndicions in (pialily, ahmidant in (inaiitilv. and, at the same time, ecicioniically administer- ed, i:a\e satisfaction to all. I'oth men and ollicers wern fidiv aware ol" the neces-^ity there was to serni'e a sup- plv \'n\- the winter, and tor the tollowini: season. I>nt Parrv, with ri^lif feidiiii; and judiiiiient, and, it may ho iiddeil. with a knowledge of liimian nature, in order to iil)\iate any approaidi to mnrnmrinii; or despondency, adnpled a measure admiraldy (alculaled lor |)reveiitms; and hliMitcMaiif i^ecciiev haviiii,' heen duly elected as sfaLfe-mail- nui'V. our first jirrtormaiice was fixed tiu' the "ith of .Nuvern- hci', to the ^'reat deliirht of the siiiiis' conipaiiies. In these aiaiHi'iiiciits I L';.'idlv took a ]iai"t luvself, consideriiu.' that an exai!i|ile of cheerfulness, hy trivim,' a, direct couuteiiauct! to eveiy ihint.' that could couliihiite to it, was not the least es- sential ])art of my duty, under the peculiar circuiuslances ia which we were |i]aced. ■• In order still farther to pnuiiote irood humor anion:: our- selves, as well as to fni-iiish amusini: occupation, duriiu,' tho liours of constant darkness, we set on foot a weeklv iiewspa- pei-, which was to he called the Sortk UcvrVA(:KH. ]]'infrr ('hr,)inrh\ ••iinl ul' uliicli ('ii|>l.'i'm SiiltiiM" nmliMMonK 1(1 lie tllc cdllcH, llllili'i llic |)ii>lili^i' lllilt il w.H III Ih" -III! |iiirliil \\\ ii|i:;iii;il fi Mil I : I nit h Mi-, lidiii llic i )llii c 'is 1 1| llic I \\ , i sliiji.s: mill tJii>ii;;li snrm" iilijccl inp iiiii\ , |M'iiiii|is. lie iJii^iil ii'.'.'iiiiNl ;i I'.ipcr nf lliis l^iiul Iti'JiL' ;:i'iii'i;ill\ n-sdilcd In m sllijis ol \\:\\\ I \v.l> liid well ;iri|i|.iillli'i| Willi 1 1 |i' 1 1 1 ^ci'i 'I K IM, ;i'> well M-^ llir ("Mi'llcill (I ls|iii-ili(iii III iiu (illirri-*, tu ;i|>|iii - liciici ;iii\ iiii|>li';i^;iiil (•(iii Iniin .1 iiM'.'i'^iin' <>| tln-i kind; iii^tf.icl (it Wliicli I ciiii N.ili'lv s;i\ lli;il llii' w crUlv ci'ii- IriliMlinii'^ li.'iil till' li:i|)|i\ t'llcci ti| ciiiiiliiN III:; lln' Insiirt" liiMii-j nl lliiiM' will) t'iii'ni>lii'i| tlii'iii. jiikI III iIim'I'Iiiil: iIi<> iiiiihI Ii'ihii llir l:Iiii'III\ |tnw]irrl wliuli wniilil m iiiicl lllirs nlil luilr iImII (HI llic siiiiiliv>i liMii." — r. Kiii. Id/-. N(»thm^ iiiorc Wiis w ;lIltin^ I liiiii siicli ili'\ ices ;is (lu'^;i', n'siirltMl to ill ;i iiioint'iit nl |i\tr;ioi'iiiiiiii°\ (lillicuity, to csliihlisji llic ( liiiriictcr ot' I'liny lor rcmly ami luippy t'xpcdicnts, ncconipMiiicd hy 11 sound jiid.; incut. \\ liicli tinis Ucpl idnc tlic ;ictl\o powers oi" llic iini'd, ;nid p' -vented it iVoni r;illii'i^ into m liiihil ol' mac tivity iind lisllessness, ;nid troin sinking into lliiit worst, of !ill conditions, 11 stiilc ol" niorliid toi'pt»r. I lis pkin was, as it could not well he otlieiw'sc, coniplcttdy sncccsslnl. Kcsides liis editorship. ( 'iipiaiii Saliine had ahnndancc of employ ineiit ol" a very di''/:cnlt and more iiiiportaiit kind, the rt>sults ot" which are i:ivcn in detail in the Ap- pendix, under lht> head ol" Mtiaiiilir ( )lisi rriiliniis. \\\- p»'rini(Mits on the Pi in/ uhnii, and in llio description of (thjects ol' Natural llislory. His lirst atlcnlion, on the ari'ival ot" the ships in theii" winter (|iiartci-s. was the selection ol a proper place tor thi' ohstM'valory, which was (M'c'chHl on a convenitMit spot for (•oiMiinmicalioii witli the ships, and also with a house built on the beach (or ihc rt>ception ot' the clocks and other inst •unients. Tlie walls ot" this wert> ol" double plank, with moss between, so thai a hiyh tenipeialuri' could be kept up in it with- out ditlicnlly by a single stove. Unulinu parlies occasionally went out and procureil a few reindecM' : but a iniuratioii of these animals took place bet'oi't* the close ol" ()ctob(M'. leaviui:; behind them only wolvivs and l"o\es to keep the party c()in])any duriii:::; the lon^ winter months. Kven th(> l^olar hare, so com- inen in tlu> Ai'ctic rci'jioiis, n»'\ei- once showed itself on Melville Island in the course of the winter. The TARRY rf I'lUH'l' VOYAcr!. 77 lillic' lllnlrrlc>iiU W.H III III" .-'U|i- irriH <>t I 111" I sv II Ii;i|i-, III' r.li'iil ^ It 'SI I I'll 'I I In III I tlif (lis( rcliiiii, lliii'1-4. til ;i|'|>ii- iiini'-inr III lliM llir wci'lvK rmi- llir leisure liiiur-4 ■J, llir llllllil linin 'H tildiiiili' ilM'll cvici's its ll\('>k o\ ( /)'"s' )nn\rlHiliis), iiho very coiiimoii, (hiring its iii'iipi't' si'iisoii, iirrivi'd on Melville Island in the middle 111' \|a\ , liv crossiii^ the ice IVotii the sunt liw jii'd. and (MiiMfd it li\ the same way on its retiiin toward the end III Sepli'iiilier. < Ml the l.'itli the lii-t io>cy ol' ptarmi- i_Mii \s aN met with; and on the same day were seen lit- tt'iMi ileer, all lyiii'j down, except oik lari:*' one, proha- |il\ a sta'^; ihr-. alter the ri>iiiii of the rest, seemed to • Miard the animals in their (]ii:lit. lVe(|neiitly uoiiiL' n jiid the herd, sometimes strikinu them with Ins imrns to make them iio on, which they appeared not much in- clincil 111 do. I'!ven seals were not loimd in this neii/li- liiirhood ; hut whaler ot' dillereiit Kinds were commonly met With: ;:iilK and diicUs, however, so iinmeroiis in havis's Strait and the (ieoruiaii Islands, con lescended Mill to M-it .\I(d\ille Island, hilt '■ t wo or three specimens ol' a caicrpillar were ohtained, ftiM' ol" \\ hicli was hroi;:^ht, til M 1 1 l; land"- (if course as an Arctic curiosity. One Iari:eai', ha \ in^ pursued ( 'apt a in Sa hi lie's servant to tin' ship, was shot at and womideriod. The method hit upon hy (iienteiiant I'arry liarl ])induce(l, to a ^reat decree, an admirai)le el'lect. \'et sniiielhiiiL; more was still reipiired than the actin<: of ))lays and the writing and readiuii ol" i:a/('ttes. l>oth Miiiid and Itody deiii'inded ex«n'cise, as the only means dl' protection aizainsf disease, wiiich a larjr*' share ol" leis- ure and a coiitiiiiicd state of mental inacti\ity wcio hut i I'i .i I 78 auctk; vuva(;eh. too sniu' to inddiicc. 'I'lic totiil privaf ioti of cmiiio ofimy kind iiliordtvl tew fMiiisiuiis for' tlif soiiicr of cxcicimi niid iiiniisfinriil wliicli lniiitiii<: is Uiiowii to coiitrr. i'ai'- tics. Iiowfvrr, liiid occasiotiiilly Item sent out shortly ul- t«'r tlif takiiii; up oi" tlirii- w inter (|iiiirt('rs. < hir of I lit 's,. did not ri'turn on hoard hi fore sunset, as strictly ordered, and the eoiisivjueiice is stated to lia\e heen as follows : ".lolni reiusdii, u iiiiiiMne helonu'iiii,' to the (iri[ier. wIid was the last that I'elanied on hoai'd. had his hands seven-iv fVosI-hitlen. havini,' iiii|)nideiidy L'one away without mitten^, and witli a iniiskel in his hand. A party of our people niii.>t pni\ identiiilly loiind hiiii, allhniiuh llu" ni^dit was \ery dark. Just as he had tiillen down a haidi of siiow. and was he^in- Jiini,' to li-el that de^iree (if torpor and di'ow«iiiiess which, il indid::ed. inevitahlv |>ro\es lata!. \\'heii he was hnnii^ht on l>oard his linirers were (|iiite stitV, and hent int(» the shape o| that part of the ninsUet which he had hecii carrvini,' ; and tln' fro>l h.id so l;ir deslrovcd the animation in his timbers nn one hand that it was necessary to anipntat*- ihti-e of them a shon time alter. notwilhstandiiiL' all the care and attention paid tn hini hy the medical j^enllenien. The etlect wliii'h e.vposiuc to -I'vere tiosi has in hennmhim; the mental as well as the «(>rpo:eal (acnllies was very sti'ikinL; in this m;in. as well ;is in I\\ o of the youn^; ^'entlemen, w ho retin-ned niter dark, aini ot ".'. hom we \\ ere anxions to make iiajnirii-s I'espiM'tin;.' I'e.ir. Poll. When 1 sent liir them iiit< Tiiy cai):n they looked wild, ^poki' thick and indistincllv, ;ind it was im|)ossil»le to draw from lliein a rational answer to any of our (pieslions. Mii r hi'iiiu' on hoard t(>r a short time the meiit.al faculties a|)|)eared praduallv to return with the retiirnim,' circulation ; and il w.is not till then iIkiI il looker-on could easily |)ersiiadt! hiiiisei'' that they had uol been ilrinkin;,' too freely."' — 1'. 1U!J. This wns fully stdlicietit fitr the alfeutive and kiiid- liearted eomuiauder to tidopt olleclivc measures against n r(!('urivii(!e of so pifinful a nvsult. So early as the •JlMli of ( )ctol)erthe tlieniionu'ter was down to 12 I helovy zero. It Avas MOW distressiiiii, to toiicli luiy nuMiillic suhstancc Avilh the naked hand in tho ojien air; it prothiced a feelinu of intense heat, luid took olf tho skin. Jf tlie (»ye|)i»H'o of a tolescojie touched tli(> liK'(>, it occasione'd an intense bin-nin;: pain; tlie remedy was to covei' tliem and otlier instruments with soft leather. T\u^ ollicers, notwilh- 8tandin«) tt» roiilcr. I'm - It out sliurtlv lit- \. ( >11C (i| tlli'sr sliictly ordrifil, •fii ii-i lollows : ilic (iri[M'c. wlio is li;iii(ls srvri'i'lv willniiil miltrii^, I" (1M|- |M'n|i|c |||n>t lit \\;iH scry ilai k, ,, Mild wiis liCL'iii- w-iiitrss which, it c \v;vs l)nMiL;ht nn into the shiipc nt ■iUTvinu ; aiul tlic his fiicjcrs on one •V of ihciii ii slidrt. 1 attention piiid to t whlcli c\|i(PMirf tal as well as the s man, as well as ed alter ilarU, ami s i'(>s|)(M'tiiii.' I'ear- thev looked wil(1. ii|)ossil(le to di'aw (|nestioiis. Atl< r "acuities appeared lation ; and it \\a>i persiiadt! hinisci'' "— r. io;{. Mitive aiul kind- iKMisures asaiiist (Miiy as the-JiUh ) L' 4 below zero, etallic siihstanoo roduced a teelini,' It" tho <'yepi»H(t ioiH'd ail iuttMise tlioiii and otlier niccrs, iioUvith- (; l"or un hour or iepth of \YUUev, f\cri wlien tlie theniioriiefer was down to 10" or even .■)(i helow /eio, without ex perieiicihi; iii.jdi iiicotive- niciice iVoMi this intense dej;n.'e of cold, provided always that there was no wind; hut the least l>ree/,e made tlie exposure to it intolerahle when the mercury was even several dei;rees ahove zero. The I'ollowitiy passable is so naturally and so wcdl expressed, that thes very suddenly, siioiild prevent our leturii, added cniisiderahly to tin- dull and tedious nKuiotoiiy wliicli day alter day |ii'eseiited itself. 'I'u the southward was the NM, covered with one unhrokeii surlace of ice, iinilnrm in its da//lin;f whiteness, except that, in some parts, a few honi- iimcs were seen thrown up poinewhat ahove the ^'eneral level. .Nor did the land offer much ;:reater viiriety, hein;^ aliiinst entirely covered with snow, except iiere and there a hniwn patch of liare ^'roiind, in Home «'xposed situations, where the wind had not alktvveil tin; snow to remain. \\ hen viewed Ironi the summit ol the neij^hhorin;,' hills, on one of tliiisc cahn i.iiil clear chiys which not unfre(|uently occurred diiriiii,' the winter, the scene was such as to induce contein- j)]atiniis which had, perhaps, more of melancholy than of any other feehii::. -Not an ohject was to h(> seen on which tiio eye could loim rest with pli-asiire, unless when directed to tli(> spot where the shi|is lay, and wlierf; our little colonv was planted. The smoke which there issued trom tin; .several tires, iitl'ordinu: a certain indication of the j)resenc(; of man, ^'av(! a partial cheerfulne.ss to this part of the prospect; anil the sound of voices, which, during the cold weather, could lie heard at a much greater ilistance than usual, served now and tlien to hreak the silence whidi reigned around us — a silence far ditVerent from that peaceahle cianposure which chancteri/.es the landscape of a cultivated couiitrv; it was the deathlike stillness ol' the most dreary desr)latioii, and the tot.'d aliseiice of animated «\xis1'MK:c.'. yiich, indeed, was the want of ohjects to atloril reli«d' to the eye or aniu.sement to the mind, tliat a stoiu> of more than usual size api>earin" ahove the snow, in the direction to which we wt-re iroiiiu, immediately became a mark, on which our eyes were im- cuasciously lixcd, and toward which wc mechauically ad- vanced. I .( ["• m' til ft 80 AIM TIC voYA(;i:^». " hrtMcv ii'^ snrli ;i s<'i'in' iiiii''t iii'ci'ss.iiily l»t', it ffiuiil cut, liiiwcMi. Ill- >,ii(l til In- wlmllv u. lilt in;: in iiilrrrsl. cspi'ci.illv wlii'ii :i~siii'i:ili'il ill till' iniiiil willi llir |)ci'iiH!ii'its mI iiiii' Mt. n.'itiiiii. llir uliji'i'i w hull liiiil lii'diiplit us liilhcr', :iii(l llii- liii|ii'. \s Ini li llii- liii^t sinL.'Miiic iKiiitii'.' IIS HMiiifliiiics iMiti-r'tainnl i>i ^|•^ll(llll:,• a |iai t ul tiiir iir\l \\ inter in I lie nmi'c ^'fuial cliniiitr III llic Siiiiiii-Sra l>laii(U. I'l'iliajis lud. tlj(iiii;li inmf nt ii- tinii \ ciiliiicil III ciPiilc-N it, niir tli(>u:.'lit.s would sniiictiinc - iii\ iiliiiit;inlv waiiili'f lidini'wanl, ami in-^lltiitr a nimiiaii^iiii lii'Iw ('I'll till' iiiL'i-'i'il tiici' tif' natiirr in tlii-* <|r^nla-lf iil'Iuh ami till' iivrlicr a>|ii'('t n^ the lia|i|iv laml wliicji we liatl Icli lifliiiid IIS."— I'. IJI, IJ.'i. Notliiui: could 1)1' iiioff judicious than tli(> arfaii;;!'- iiii'Uts made t'oi' the (Mii|)lnyiiicnl ol' the men each dnv in the week: and till Sundays disiiie sefvice was iii\a- rialily |ieri"oiiiied. and a sefinoii fead. on hoard hoth shi|is. '• 'The atleiitiou," says i'arry, " |)aid hy the men to llir (ihser\aiice of their feliuicnis (hilies was sn<'li as to ic- llect U|>oii tlieni the hiuhest credit, lllid it teiuh'd in im small de::ree to llie |)reser\alion ol" that regularity and i:ood ciiiahict lor ahich, with \eiy lew except ions, they were iii\arialily disfiiiiiuished." 'Tlu' iidnor arranye- iin'iits made hy I'arry to liiid employnn'rit, ttnd to vary the occupations of hoth men and otiicers, diiriiii;; the Ion::. mihroUeii niiiht of tlnve months, appear t(» liave heeii very judicious, 'j'he t'ornu'r, alter atteiidinji divis- ions nnirninu and evening, cleared up the decks, attend- ed tin' ollicers round the shi|)s, examined tluMr hertlis iind hed-places. and in the eveiun*; went to llieir su|)per. wliile the ott'u'ers took their tea. After this the meti were permitted to aimise themselves as they pleased, and iiauu's ot' various kinds, jis well as dain;ini: mid siii:;- ini:. occasionally went on upon the; lower deck till nine o'clock, wlien thev retired to rest, and their liiihts were t'\tini:uished. '• it is .sciircoly necessaiy to add." l*ariy ohserves. "that th(» eveliiny: occupations of the (dlicers were of ii mcnc I'ational kind than those which eiiijayed the attention of the men-. Of the former, reading and writing were the principal empIoymiMits. to which were occasionidly added a uiimo of chess, or a time on the (lute or violin, till lialf j)ast ten, about which time We all retii ed to rest." On Chris^tmas-day, which hud now arrived, the Nveath- rvRiiv rf FiHHT vov.\(;n. 81 he •It i;if I", ; s r (• J. "r (III Ic *|)i'ri;ill\ its ol' our Mt- mil ill)' liii|i)'^ llll'ltililHMl 111' .'fiiiiil iliiii;ili' li innii" III iH 111 sitmi'tiiii'> ;i cninpariMiii •Milirtr frL'inh li \vr liiiil l.ll M tli(« iirriiii'.:i'- nii'M racli ilay rvici' Wiis iii\a- iiiiid l)i»tli sln|is. the iiifii til till' surll il"* tn ir- it tfiiili'il ill iiii regularity mul xccptiiMis, lliry miiinr iiiriiti^f- •iit, iitiil to viiry rs. ilurini: tln' iippriii" to hiivi' iittnidinii ii- licrtlis II thoii" suppiT. tliis the iiirti tlicy i)lt'as('(i. iiciiiii and siiit:- • deck till niiH^ I'ir liu;htH were to add," I'iiny of tlic olTlClTS which (Mii!:a'^r(l r. rcadiiiii and to which wt'ir a tniu> on tlin ch tiiut; wo all led, iho weuth- «>r wiis rnw nnd coif,, witli snow : Imt to niai-lv t1ii> day in the Ih".I niiHUicr tliiit rii( iiiii'^taiirr,; w mild pniiill, di- MiM- -civin' was prrloniird on l»oiii(i tlir twi ships; •■iind I diici'lcd a smn'l ituTcasf in the iiirn's tiMiiil pro- piii'tiiiii ot'tii'sh niriit. as a ('Inislnias dinin'r. as well as an addilioiiiil iillowniicc! of uroi:. to drink the hrnllli of tlicir iViiMids in Kniiland. Tlii' odicrrs also irrt at a so- «'iiil and frii-ndly dinner, and llie day pasx-d with niinh ot' till' ^aiiii" kind of Icslivity l»y whi(di it is usually ds- tinjiii^lii'd at lionii' ; and." he adds, "to the cfedit of jli,. irien l»e it spoken, without aii\ of that diMuder hy which i' is ttio often ohsrrseil hy scaiiieii." The iiDod order. rcLinlaiity. and discipline of the two sliip<. in this most trying ol" situations, is a hove all praisr ; wliollv depiiverl as they were ottlie si;;ht oftliesini tor ei 'htv-foiir da\s. \\hi(di nia\' he reckoned, as it reallv was. one ciiiitinned ni^lit. lighted np only, and that par- fialU. \t\ the moon, and occasionally hy tin; lleeiint; An- idia lliiiealis. Their extraordinary ^ooij conduct, uii- di'i" such circnnistances, iniisf, in a iireat decree, he as- ciihcd to the example set them hy their excellent conj- niaiider, cordially seconded hy Ijieiifenant liiddoii and the other offi(;ers. It is wtdl understood in the navy that iihcdieiit and uood conduct on the piirt of seamen, ami a hi^h state of discipline in u man-of-war, are tlio sine lesiilts of ahle and intelliireiit oflicers, kind and Jit- tetitive to those under their command, yet, at the saiim time, strictly reipiiriiiij; from them a ready and willing ohedienco to the orders of their superiors, and to iho lilies and reiiulatioiis of tho service. Such were tho men. and such tin; commanders, on tiie present service ; and the coiisc(|uence was, that every man (witli the ex- ception of one |)oor fellow, who carried out with him an incurable disease) was hrouyht home in as hi^^h a stale ot health as that in whicli lie left iMifiland. OiK^ case of scurvy was reportetf on tlio 2d of .Tami- nry. Mr. Scallon, ^unncM* of tlie llecla, complained of ))aiiis in liis le^s, and the appearance of his ^Mims left no doiiht of the symptoms heinrity of the winter, ho C(juld ei5 wliicli kept IdIui Sir.idi, of it, siiid who, to- ill the house at enough to suf- o save the dip- stove, Jind tif V r;in r)ut vvitli gl(»\('s, ]i;mI \i\'i le iinimiitioii so Ml on IxtJird by into a biisiii nt' icdiately I'l'dzcii ati'd to it ; iiml. littiiiu atteiitinu i'liuud ueces.>a- rv, snine time ath-r. to resort to llie aiiiputatiou of a part of \'n\ir lluirers on one liuad anil three on the utinT." — I'. 1 l;;, Jl;i. " The appearance," snys Parry, " wliich our faces pr<^- seiited at tbe lire was it curious one, almost every nosn and clieek havini: become (piite white with fiost-bites in fivi' minutes after beiim exposed to the weather, so that it was deemed necessary for the medical iientleineii, tu::ether with some others appointed to a- sist them, to fro constantly lound while tlio men wen; workinx|)eri»!iiced, the thermometer liavinji descend- ed to — ."jo"^, and I'emained for fifteen lioui's at — 51 , tho li'>«i to have iieeii expected as the old year had closed Avith mild weather. On the followiui:; day Parry snys, '• Notwithstandiiiii tlu^ low temperatiu'e ol the- external atmosphere, the oificers contrived to act, as visual, tho |i|ay announced for this evening; but it must be con- i'rs>ed that it was almost too cokl for either the actors or the audieiic" to enjoy it, especially those of the loi-- nierv.dio undertook to ap[)ear in female dresses."' It is some consolation, however, to be told that tiiere was no wiii'I. and the severest cold lias been stated to be foler- alile in a cidm. in March the snow b«»<:an tv, melt, witii a tem|)erature of LM) \o :5(P in the sun, but with — 'J'J ^ to — 'J.V in the shade. Luminous arches, i)arhelia, and tlie Aurora wei'e fre(pient, but not particularly remark- a!ile. Toward tho end of A])ril tluj thermometer con- tinued abov(> tho freezing j)oint in the shade for tho greater part of two days, and about tlie middle of May the --hiiis w(M'e once again afloat, the operation of cut- ting the ice round them being completed. I'arry, however, observes that it was sufficiently dis- cenniging to his hopes of a fartlier progress to the west- ward, to ))erceive tluit, on the last day of May, " tho sea still })resented tt;e same unbroken and continuous surface of solid and im[)enetrable ice, and ice that could not Ik* less than from six to seven feet in thickness, as we ktii'w it to be al»out the shij)s. When to this cir- cumstance was added the consideration that scarcely ilj 1[^ if I:' r 84 ARCTIC VOYAOKS. tlio slii^lifosf syniptonis of lluiwiiii: lind y<'t ii|)|)C!H'(mI, and flint in tlircr wccUs tVom tliis ixM'iod the sun wjuld ntiain l)r«i;in to (l('clin(> to tlic sontliwiiid. it must \w coii- Irsscd tliat the Mn)st sauiruino and (Mitliusiaslic ani(»n^ us liad sonic reason to Ix' staiXijci'cd 'n the ('X])crtatioii tlicy liati loniicd oi" tlio compltMt' acconiplisluiiont of our cu- torpriso." It may licro bo remarked that tlio wliole of tlio navi- j;atioii hitherto perfornuMl had been from the 1st of Aiiiiiist. wlien IjancastcM' Sound was enltMed, to tlie 'Jdth of Sept(Miiber, wlien the ships were antdioi'ed on the coast of Midvillc Island. fjiciitcnaiit I'arry lias else- \vliei-(^ observed that the month of Septcmbci' is one of the most favoiable for navijiation amoiiiSi masses of ice, hut the slu)r(^s of Melville Island, at least, appear to \w an exception — to be, in fact, the I'ecipitMits of the ^real- est part of the ice driven to the eastward by the west- orly winds about that j)arallel, this island beiiifi; the out- ermost of the (Jeoruian chain, and considered by Parry ns by far the worst he evt'r met with. Previous, li()wparturo from this (li'oary. dismal, and detestable^ aboile, Parry determiiitMl to make a journ(\y across Mcdville Island to tlu^ north- ward, and to return by a ditferenl route. lie was ac- companied by Captain Sabine, Messrs. Fisher, Nias, and Keid, a s(>ri;eaiit of marines, and a serijeant of artillery, together with thi'(Hi stamen and two marines, makiii;:, in the wlu)le, u party of twelve. They took with thciu tents, ])rovisions, and a cookinji apparatus. It was found tliat those parts of the island whi(di were clear of snow produced the dwarf willow, sorrel, and poppy, and that the moss was very luxuriant. On the s(>cond day they saw a pair of ducks (yl;/^/,s sjjcctahiiin), and killed seven ]itarmii;an : sorrel and saxifrajie were abundant. They iound pieces of coal embedded in sandstone ; passed a very extensivi, dreary, and uninteresting level i)laiii covered with snow ; and tliis kind of ground, '.vith occa- sional ravines and fogey weather, continued for threo days, during which they saw not a living animal, except one or two llocks of geese {Anas hernlcla). PaiTy, being desirous of obtaining a view of the sea on the northern shore, took with him the two midship- yd iippcarnl, tlu' sun wjuld t must l)i> cou- iistic nnioui; us ipcrtiition tlwy leut of our cii- )lo of tlio navi- )m tli«^ 1st of red. to tlM' '2C>\\i icliort'd oil tilt' •any lias elsp- •inhtT is one of ; masses of ice, ■;t, appeal- to Im its of the jireiit- nl l)y tlie wesl- l iKMiifi; the out- ilered l)y Puny ture from this iriy determined id to the nortli- Ile Avas ao- isher, Nias, and ant of artillery, liarines, makiiiLN took with them Is. It was found ■e clear of snow poppy, and that I'cond day they uid kilhul seven Imndant. They touo ; passed a Itiiig level i)laiii und, '.v'ith oecu- nued for three animal, except a). iew of tho sen le two niidship- r-VKRY ri FIRST VOYAGE. 85 men Xiiis and Keid, with a (piarf er-masler of th*^ (Jriper. Alii'i' II l<»"^ '""' disai:reea!>ie march tlu^v cana^ to what tliev consiiiered to ho tho soa. Anxious, howovei', to leave nothinii lua'ortain, they walkeil a few hundred yards u|)on the ice, and endeavored, hy means of a l)()ai(liu;i-|tike and their knives, to makc^ a hole through il ni order to taste the water; hut alter tw(j hours' la- lior they only sncceeiled in ffettiiiir through two fo<'t of verv hard, brittle, and transpart^it ice, morir so than that of salt water usually is. This did not satisfy I'urry, who returned to the party left behind and carried thiMii back with him to llu^ spot. The (Iocs was penetrated, anil proved to bo fourteen foot and four inches in thim of a better country — a worse, perhaps, it would be diflicidt to tind ; it re- minded them of home, this darling littbi bird be inaiitest and most habitable spots we had yet si^en in the Vrctic reyions, the vegetation bein^ more abundant and forward than in any other place, and the situation sludlered and favorable for f^ame." 'I'hey found liei'o a lioiid deal of moss, ijrass, dwarf-willow, and saxifrage, and Captain Sabine met with a ranunculus in full llower. Tims we see that even in this, the most desolate region ol" the earth, the superiority of tlie wi^storn coast pre- dominates. Tlui hunters saw and lired at a nuisk-ox, but did not kill him ; they saw tilso several golden plov- ers, and one or two boatswains {Lcalris). ( )u tho 1.0th they reached the ships, and were complimented by tlu^ir shipmates on their };oo(l looks, and as appearing in inurti j'obiist healtli than when liiey departed. * ."ffo Cuptiiin Lyon'rf \'()vuij.j ri':,'!iriUng tliia bird. li ;,f' \n\ ;|V A . :mm "^■■•w-i 8G ARCTIC VOYAGES. Townrfl tlio pihI f)f h\no. 'A\o ic(> n(\:;iin to iiinvp in tlio orfiiij:, witli ii loud, firiiidiiii; noise, and on llio 5th of .In- ly the tlicnuonM'tcr rostj tVoni ';0 to o'J , iind on the tAVo iollowiiifi; tliiys to oo^. The ic(^ in tlio Iruhor mIso Ijc- ^iin to dissolve, and was there covci'cmI with pools ot' water. On the ITtli the teiM))eratnre i'ose to (JO^, the liit,diest point it ever reached at Meivilhi Islanih On tlie 'J4th every thini^ was complete for proc(MMhn,; to sea; " tlu^ sails wert^ bent in readiness for stai'tini: at a mo- ment's notice, thouj^h it must he confessed that the mo- tive tor doinif so was to make some show of n.oving, rath- er than any expectation J dared to entei'tain of soon os- rapinij; tVom our lonj^ and tedious continement ; lor it Avas impossibh^ to conceal from tlm men the painful fact, that in eiiiht or nine weeks from this period the naviyahk; season must \mavoidal)ly conm to a conclusion.'' Anoth- er paintul fact was, that, hefort^ the expiiation of July, the appr(»acli of winter ainiounced itself in tin? (hminu- tion of temperature, wiiicli seldom i-eached 4(P by day, and also by the falls of sleet and snow, us well as by the })(jols of water frozen over in th«> night. On the last day of July the whole body of the ice in the liarbor was perceived to be slowly moving out, break- ing away for thi^ first time at the points which form the entrance of the harbor. The latitude and longitude of Winter Harbor is thus stated : LMliliid(> hy 3f) ineridiiui ahitudes . 7P 47' 19" N. Loiiizitutle by (iit-J sets of observations, C(msisting'of ()!j()x! liuiar disUiuces . 110^ 48' 29" IT'. Dip of niaguetic needle . . , 81)^4:}' VariatitMi "^ 127^ 47' 50" i?. On the 1st of August, the day on whicli Lancaster Sound had been ent«'red, the two ships stood out of Winter liarbor, after liaving passed ten whob; months and a part of Septembei- and August in that dreary plac(3 of imprisomnent. They stood along the shore of Mel- ville Island to the westward, occasionally running in near to the beach to avoid the masses of ice in motion; in one place, the Ifecla being within twenty yards of the beach, a })oint of land, which was liiied all round with lurge huiamucs of ico, rendered it a most dangerous sit- ^ V moro so as tho body of tho ico romiii;; in from the westward, beim:; distant from the ship less tliiin half a mile, was composed of lloes infinitely mor(> heavy than any they iiafi (dsewliero met with diirinu tho \(i\;i\:e. Lieutenant Liddon sent word that the (iriper Wiis also in a situation exactly similar to that of tho I lec- la. where " nipping" nppeiired unavoidable if the (Iocs sliiMilil come in. Parry desired Liddon not to join him, as there wa-< not room for two ships. " and the chance^^ of siuiii;; oik' of them from the catastrophe^ we had reas- on to apprehend were greater by their lieiiiii; separate." J>y chance, and it wms by diaiico entirely, they os- c!i|)ed; but had the apparent catastro|)lm taken place, which they had reason to a])pr(dieiid, not a single beiiii; could have survived the melancholy fate that must inev- itiilily have awjiited them; all must liavc^ jierished from fiiinnie tind the intense cold of tho^approaching winter. This state of things, and, indeed, every circuiiistaiico cniiiiected with this abmniiiablo island, must servo as !i lieacdii to warn ol'f any future navigator from coming even within siiilit of it, but to avoid it as the ancients did Scyl- la or ('harybdis. It is to be hoped, and tluM'c^ is reason to l)elieve. that Sir .lohn Fnmklin's attention has been ])aificulaily drawn to this part of Sir Edward Parry's nai'iative. The ships remained, however, at or near tlio sniiio place, and a mass of abo it an acre in extent drove in and gave the Hecia a considei-able "nip," and then 'rra/ed p.ast her to the westward. 'J'he following day another doo came in, "and gave tho ship a heavy rub." I'arry, howev- e;-. still peist>vered in creejiing along the .'■hore of Alelvilb isJaiHl. the shi])s sustaining such tretp'.ent .uid " severo rubs" thfit nothing short of tlio stoutest timber, the most sound and dexible iron, and tho most judicious construc- tion of the fabrics, could possibly have withstood these ire(|nent rubs to wliich they were exposed. P(!rsever- iiig. liowe\er. in this beach-sailing, generally within lialf a mile of it, till they arrived very nearly to the western- uiost ])()int of the island, tli«» commander, believing thero was little hope of making farther progress to the west- ward, and having experienced during tho first half of tho Jjuvigublo season such a continued series of vexations, ll I !. iH ii f «• kI''' /, 88 ARCTIC VOYAGES. rlisa])p<»'mtinonts, and delays, acroinpaniiMl by f^ucli a con- vlaiit statti ol tliiiiu'T to llif sliips, tell it ii7th ill Jill open (Is lu'iirlily \Vc II ni iritm tlieii' I'll! llir I'ol- weiity-t'oiir niiu' (lucks, iiiiiouiitiiij:; and sixty- [1 to each uf f meat ptu' led to ex- tcr Sound, iiloiiii iho air in l^).'^- said sound. Ir^lH, and \v tlie pres- helore the ve months ^ust, 1^-JO, )o noticed : \v;is — ')'P ; the 11th and in's and Da- r.VRRV ri riRriT VOYAGE. 89 vis's Strait tliey called only at one pla<"e. Clyde's River, ill latitude 70 ">!■-''. Here they rccrivcd visits iVoiii u tribe of Ksquiinaux, whose appearance and conduct pli'iise(l them all very much — lively, j;ood natured, and clie.'rt'ul. with a preat inclination to jump uhout when iniicli pleased, '• reiideriiif; it," says I'airy, " a penalty of no tridinj; natui'o for them to sit still for half an hour t(im'th(!r." They were decently clothtMl, male and fe- male, and their children e(pially so, in well-dressed and neatly-sewn seal skins. Tiiey were, in fact, in all re- spects, iiitinittdy superior to Ross's Arctic lliiililaiiders, who pulled or ruhhed noses jls a siilutation. and asked if ships were not living creatures. lUit Parry sluill hiinselt" jiiark th(^ contrast : '• r|i(iii the wlinle, these people may lie considered in pos- si'>si(iii of e\ery necessary ot lite, as well as nt' most of tlie (■niiili)rts and CDUveniences which can he .•iijoyed in so nido a r-tale of society. In the situation ioid < ircumstaiiccs ia wliicii \\n'. I'.stpiimaux of N. (ireeiilaiid [Ross's lli^dilaiideis] are pliicrd, there is much to excite compas>ion li'"" the low state to wiiich hniiian nature appears to be there reduced — a st.itr in few respects superi(»r to that of the hear or the seal, which they kill i()r tlieir suhsisti'uce. ]iut with these il was iii)|)iissil)le rot to experience a f«'eliiicj ol' a more [ileasiiii^ kind: th is, tlio j)erfect lioiiestv which clirtr- acterized all their dealings with us. During the two hours tliaf the men were on board, and f.>r four or live hours that wo were sul)se(|uenlly anioiiir them on .xhore, on both which occasions the temptation to steal trom us was, perliaps, stron- ge;' t!i;iii wc cuii well imagine, and the opportiinitv of doing fo l)y no means wantiiiiz, not a single instance occui'rcd, to my knowledge, of their piiferiiiL: tlu; most triiliim artich'. It is j)leasing to record a fact no less singular in itself than honor- able to those simple people." — 1'. "J157. Xotliing material occurred in their way across tlio Atlantic, till the afternoon of the "Jtlth !■ r!, »! ( fl l^^i 4m ,'j ' il ! ,' 'I H «i /' »t^ «'• .*. 90 ARCTIC VOYAGE.^. fullowJiiji; (liiy lh(i coiniiiandcr landtMl at Pctorlicad, ac- compiiiiiod liy Cii|)tiiiii Siibiiic and Mr. Hoopci', who pro- ceodcfl without dcliiy to London, wlicni they arrived uu the luorniiig ot'tho ',k\ of Sowmlnn; Id'JU. "Such wiis the cxcclk'nt state of ht'iilth wliich wo at thi;< tiuK.' coatiuuod to enjoy on hoard thi' Ilfcla, tliut (hiring iho whoh; Heasou of our l.itc navigation from \V'inIlse- tliis work iction that ai-e of tho lied to his his mind fertile in er ditilicult, this, Par- and spirit id uprii^ht ; I a love of iei)3, been to serve in r, when he eding voy- o Koss. PARRY d FIRST VOVAGn. ni Oil the present voyaLje lie was most rlioerfiilly and riieri^^eticiilly obeyed ami assisted by all liis orCicers in hdtli slii[)s; and, in addition to the ordinary services which navii^ation and nautical astronomy reciuire, he li;id till' beiielit otCaptain S.ibiiK.-'s valuable and cordial co-op- eration in carryini:; out a series of experiments in a branch of science unconnected with any that rei^ards navigation — the swiii^iiii^ a pendulum for ascertainiiiL'the eilipticify of the eai'tli. Captain Sabine, beiiijj; a comu'ctifUi ot" Mr. Jleiiry IJrowne, of Portland l*lace, liad unrestricted ac- cess to that jLjentleman's observatory and valuable collec- tion of astronomical instruiiKMits, some of which wero supplied to the |)resent expedition ; and the practical uso (it'tliein was well known to Captain Sabine. In the i.p- pciidix to Commander Parry's narrative we find the cap- tain joined with other officers in makiiiir oi)servations on tbo dip, the variation and declinaticjii of the niiiynetio needle; in ascertainiiii; the latitudes and loiiifitmU^s by thermomoters jointly with Parry, Ueechcy, and Hoop- er; and lunar ol)S(U'vations taken at Winter Harbor and at sea with Parry, IJeecher, H()o|)er, and Ross, amount- in}^ to the extraordinary number of six thousand eight hundred and sixty-two. Sabine, in addition to all those, describes (in tho ap- pendix) tho subjects of natural history collected in tho three classes of mammalia, birds, and fishes. Jiut th(3 most important will probably la; considered that of No. ^', " An accourt, of the expcu'iments to determine tho accehu'ation of the pendulum in din'erent latitudes," which would appear to have been the joint labor of Parry and Sabiiu^ " Tlui acciihuital discovery," it is said, "that a pendulum, t)n being removed from Paris to the neighborhood of the equator, incrtuised its tiino ot" vibration, gavc^ tlu! first step to our present knowledgo that the polar axis of the globe is loss than thi^ e(piat()- rial, and that the force of gravity at the surfac(! of tho earth increases progressively from tin) ecpnitor toward the polos." In the j)resent instance two clocks wero used in these exp(u-iments, being the ])roperty of the Royal Society, and the smne which accompanied Ca[)- tain Cook round the world ; and the result is stated to bo, that tJio mean daily acceleration of tho two clocks I.! jv; It: { * <\ ll li r ;,vi i 'it '0 I ,rr 02 ARCTIC VOYAGES. was scviMity-foiir tliousaml seven liiiiidred and tliirty- fonr vihiiitions, wliieli is cnnsidei-ed us tluj true iicceluiu- tiDii of u penduinni between the liitiliides ol ' .'Jl' llrt ' (r.onddii) and 7 1 17' 1 J" {.Melville Uland) ; and the dediution, wliicli was obtained iVoni the result of the arcidoration Ixjlween London and Moivillo island, ^uves the iliniinuliou of ^^ravity from the polt^ to the eipiator to ho -OOOo-Jort ; and this decimal gives for the cllipticity of tlio earth, ^j-pTTTr- J{ut as Captain Sal)in(! in the year 18'21 (the next fol- lowinjr that of his arrival in Kn;:land) eiul)arked on a most ar(lu(»us undertaUinjf to investiyatt; the last-nuMi- lioned subject in hijih latitudes, an account of his voya- ges and operations will l)e j-esumed hereaft»M*. it may perhaps Ins deemed presmnptuous in a lands- man viMituring to differ iVom so expert and complete u seaman as Connuander l*arry ; hut it is undei- a C(»n- viction that he will not l>e displeased at, but take in good part, a few desultory remarks, though not I'xactly cor- res|)ondent with his own opinion. "Our experience," he says, •• 1 think has clearly siiown that the navigation of the l*oIar seas can never las perfornu>d with any de- gree of certainty, without a continuity of land. It was only by watcdiing tins occasioiud openings betwjM'U tin* ice and the shoris that our late pi-ogi-ess to the west waid was ell'ectcMl ; and had tins land continued in tins desired direction, tln-re can be no (piestion that we shoidd have continued to advance, however slowly, toward the com- pletion of our (Miterprise."' 'Vlw ol)jection about to be olfered is not to the ''slow advance,'' l)Ut to the chance of no advani ts at all, and to the extreme ha/.ard of tins loss of the ship and crew, which liad lusarly happened in the present instance, and did actually liappen to tlie ship on a future occasion, by a nip, or rub, or i)ressuro between the ice and the shore ; to say nothing of the constant appr(shension, the anxiety, and incessant threat- ening of momentaiy destruction, which occurred along the whole coast of Melville Island, and tins fre(|ueiit " rubs" and " nips" which both ships experienced be- tween the sea ice and the shorts ice, when nothing but extreme watchtulness and good management could p s- sibly luivo saved them from being crusiied. Instead, 1 PARRY rf FIRST VOYAGE. 93 11(1 tliirly- ' ucct'luru- L ' 'Al' 06" : and tlio lilt of tlm liiiid, f;ivt's in (■(|ii!it(ir >. e Hi pt icily If! next fol- i-k(Ml oil il liisr-inoii- ' his voyii- in a lunds- •oiiiplt'tn il iUt il coii- ikr in iiood xiictly cor- LIXM-it'lH'C," niivi^atiou itli any (h;- d. It was 'tWJM'll tllP • westward K^ dosirt'd )uld have tho com- )0".lt to l)o al (diaiico rd ot" tlio lia[)i)(MUMl )t'ii to tho pressuro 111; ot" tho ant threat- iToil aloiit; c tr('(|ueiit (•need 1)0- thiiii; l)iit ould |J H- Instead, flioi'eforo, of ImviriL' fo " watrli the orrasioinl nponinp;^ liriweeii the ice and tlie slntre." wonlil it not lie nioi-(^ (lesirahlt! to avoid iilacini; thi' ship het'veeii the ice and the shore ! to keep iis far as possible iVoni the shore, ami trust to an open sea, free from land of any kind, even with th(^ usual (piantity of loose ice, lioininocs, (»r llocs ? A ship, it is pr«'sniiHMJ, may always make her wav thi'oiiyh such a sea with little or no danjier. as is well known to tiie wliale-lishiiij; ships, whicli carefully avoid coininu near an ice-bound coast. Ayainst winterinti; in tlu; ice tliere are iinnierons ob- jections, thonjih tile detention can not always be avoich'd. ( )iie of them, but ix'thaps the least serious, is the ;,':".'at, inconvenience and discomfort which the officers and crew imist unavoidably be subject to, without any chanco of coinpeiisatioii by carryinj; out the objects of the expe- ditinn — without hope of thereby advancins; (Hscovery or i^eof^raphical knowledge. And althoufj;h tiio liardships of winterini; in the ice have been shown, on the present occasion, to admit of mitigation, when thc^y hapjxMi uu- (li-r so able and discreet an officer as Commander I'ar- ry, whose resources are inexhaustible, it may fall to tho lot of another, whose mind is l<>ss fertih; in ex|)(Mlierits to soften them. Auotlier objection may, perhaps, bo raised against the danger that is likely to be incurred ; but this by caution and attention may generally be pro- vided ajjauist. A third, and one of the first import- ance in most cases, is tho utter inutility of wintering in the Arctic seas; for no harbors are known that are not filled with ice for eight or nine months in the year. and the ship must be secui-ed in ice that is already thick and firm by the close of the season, generally mak- ing it necessary to cut a canal, at an immense labor, so as to be floated to a place of safety ; and it is most likely to happen that, before she can be got out again, the following season is so far expired, that all the ser- vic(> she can then undertake is to get home, with tho loss of a year. After all, it is but a choice of evils, to winter or return when the first obstruction commences. In tliat pcn'tion of the globe in question, a short passage home is next to certain, whether beset in the ice or in an open sea, as the I .1 i V t I ill ly ;'i; 't • I tV 11 01 ARCTIC VOVAfiLS. Aviiid is gt'iicDilIy fuvonililc for n sontlicni voyn^»\ nml llm current almost nlwiiys so; l)iif it may liiipix-ii that nn rhoirr is Id't, and tlicii to winter lias liecoim' a matter of necessity; and Parry lias laid down an admiraltle rod(i ol instructions for any oik! reduced to tliat emeri^ency. C II AFTER V. tfl)DI\\DER CLAVERIM; AND CAPTAIN SABINE, R.A. lH0-2-lfi23. 1. Jniirnnl of a Voyose to l^pifzhrrsfn fJnd the Kasf Const of Gri'i'iihinil, in IHx Majrsfijs Ship Cirijur, I). C. C'r.A- vr.iuNCi, Ks(|., ('(niiiiiaiiilcr. 2. An Arrotiiit of ll.riirrinu'nls fo (hfrrminr. the Fipvre of the Karlh III! mcdiis of thi' I'lnihil inn rihrtitixi! srromfs in lif- frrrnf hitilndra ; an veil ax on sonic olhrr siilijvrfx of Phil- oso/ihirril Iiii/iiiri/. J5y Kuwakd .Saium;, Cai)tiiiu in tlio Uoyal Artillfiy. It was considered oxjiedient to introduce n, brief no- tice^ of tliis voyage aiiioiiii; those? sj)ecially sent into tla^ Arctic reu;ions for tlio purpose of discovery, and for two reasons: fust, that ('oinmander Claverinir was to he oi'der«Ml to proceed to Spit/,l)er}j;en, and thence to the oast coast of (Ireeiiland. and tlnit on the latter In; suc- ceeded in reachins:; a higher deo;ree of latitude than any former or suhsetpient naviifator had elfected ; and, sec- ondly, that he cai'ried out, lii-st in the Pheasant, and tli(>n in the Giij)er, Captain (now Lieutenant-colonel) Sabine, who, very shortly after his return from the first voyage of Parry to the Arctic Sea, recommenced that series of observations on the leniith of the seconds' pendulum which were made in the Ileda. Captain Sabixk, impelled by tlie zeal and lovo of science for which he is distina;uished, hastened to pro- ceed, in the first instance, to Sierra Leone, in the Iphi- jienia, on the 21.M of February, 18'22, and completed his ])en(lulum exj)erinients theio in April. Sir Kobcu-t blends there assigned the Pheasant to convey him to 1 v CI.AVKUING AMJ riAUIM;. 05 ;o, nml tho •II tliiit no lllllltl'l' of nililr <'(m1(< IINE, R.A. K,/sf Coast I). (.'. Cl.A- ''iij^iirr (if the 'oiiils ill ilif- rrfs of Phil- [)tiiiu in tho a brirf no- iMit into tlii^ y, niul tor 'mil ^vas to (Mico to tho or li(! siu'- Ic! thuii any ; and, scc- 3asant, and int-('f>1onol) IVoni tho •oninioiicod 10 soconds' nd love of led to pro- 11 the ]|)lii- nplotod his >ir Kobort vey hiiu to lli(^ several Atlantic, stations whoro in- was dosirous to swiiiu liis prndulnin. mostly in tho W'rsI Indies and to tlh> .sdiiliiwnrd ol'tho lim', as far as Ax-onsiciii. ('oMMWPKii ('i,.\VKuiN(i, of tho IMioasant. was an (tlVicer well vrrsed in the scicntilic dntio.s of a navigator, Hiid a iViondship was sprodily formed hi-tweeii the two nlficers that ceased only with tln^ death of tho snijor, wliich iia|)peiied. when, in the year 1H-J7, he (•(amnand- ed tlie Kedwin;:, whicli ship sailed from the c(, 'st of Atrica. and. Iteinii never after heard <»!", is snpposed to have fonndereil, and all on hoard to have perished. It is >tiited hy Mr. .lames Smith, the editcn* of the voyain', that such was the aide and zealons matnier in which ('onanaiider ('laverin;^ co-opei"ite(l with ("aptain Sa- l)ine, that the latter was n(»t only enahied t(» make tlio ohservations at eveiy station in the most satisfactory iiiMniicr, hilt without tlie sliijhtest accident ever havinu; tiikeii placid in movin|irtli(; niinuM'oiis and delicate instrii- iiieiils to and from tlu^ sliip. The observations beiiij; c.piiipleted at Sierra Leone, the places next to b«' visited were tlu! Island of St. 'J'homa.s, Ascension, Haliia, iMaraiiham, Trinidad, .lamaica, and N»'W York ; to all of whi(d> i)laces Captain Sabino whs conveyed in Miccession by tlie Pheasant, and made his |)enduliim ohservalions at each of them in a manner satist'actory to liiinself ; and those observatioiis were published by tho Hoard of Longitude, and will briefly be noticed hero. The two officers, it is said, executed a valnabk; and ex- tensive series of observations on the direction and force of the (Mpiatorial current. Iininediately alter the arrival of the Pheasant in Kni;- lund, on the 5th of t'ebriiary, 1.-<"J."5, Captain Sal)ine su^irestod, through Sir lliimphrey Davy, that the ex- tension of similar experimcMits would be desirable if carried on in high latitudes, iiiid that lu^ was ready (as lie ever is when the calls of science recpiii-(; it) to under- tak(! this service. The (iriper, fjun-brig, was appropri- ated forthwith for that purpose, and on the 'Jfitli of Feb- ruary Clavering was ap|)ointed to command her. Tho plan of tho voyaye proposed by Captain Sahine was, to proceed in the first instance to llammerfest, near the North Capo of Norway, about the 70lii tlegree of lati- 1.* \\ If ',' if I Vi ii i 9G ARCTIC VOYAGES. tilde : tliPiicc to a scroiid stntioii, in or iicnr the POth ])iinillel, on the iioitlu'in const of Spit/boijicii ; al'ter- •\Viir(i to iiiiikc! tlie ojj.st cftiist of ( Jrcciilio:;!, in as hifjli n latitude as tlie hari'icr of ice, whicli lenders tliat coast difficult of access, v>-onld periiiit, and havinji j^ut within the barrier, to ascend the c(»ast to the northward as far as niif^ht be compatible the same year, in order to ob- tain a third pendulum station for Captain Sabine's expcM- iments at the highest degree of latitude that might be there attained. He was then to return to the southward, and if Ca])- tani Siibine should wish for a fourth station on the coa.st of FceliUid, he was to use his discretion, accoi'ding to tlie states of tlie weather and th(^ time of the 3('ar, to stop at that island ; if not, a fourth station might be sought else- where, in or about the same parallel, and after that to return to England. The equipment of the (Jriper being conij)leted, and the magnetical pendulmn, with the va- rious instniments for astronomical and other scientific puiposes, being embarked by the second week in May, she sailed from the Nore on tlie 11th of that month for lliimmeifest, where she arrived on the 4th of .June. This place, built on a small island named Qualoen, or "Whale Island, is said to consist of about a dozen iiouses. The bay is small, but tlie anchorage good and safe ; the only provisions to be got liere were reindeer, which were dieap ; the trade is entirely in fish and oil. The iii'.tives are described as kind and hospitable, and were pleased at the idea of a visit from even such a smnll man-ofwar as the (i riper. The women are fair and pretty, and dress much like our own ; remote from the civilized world, tlu>y are untainted bv either its vices or its wants. Morality and religi* strictly predomi'.ite, and deviations from either are rare. Mr. Crowe, an English merchant, wlio acts as consul, resides here, and paid the visitors much attention. The latitude, 70° 40' ; the dip of the needle, 77° 40'. On the 123d of .Tune, Captain Sabine having finished his observations, the Griper pui to sea the same even- ing ; on the 27th, fell in with the first ice off Cheiry Island, in latitude 75° 5'. a gale of wind then blowing ; saw Spitzbergen in the evening, and fell in with a great T' ir the Pnth ij(Mi ; }il"t(! I'- ll as lii^li ii that coHsi ; jjot witliiii w.ird MS far ii'dci" to ol)- iiif's ex|)(M- iit might bo nnd if Cap- in the const rditifi; to tlie r, to stoj) at ■^ou<;lit elsc- ifter that In iiiper beiiii; \itli the va- er scientific. 3ek in May, It month for of .Iniie. Qual(H'n, or /,en houses. 1(1 safe ; tlic leer, wliicli d oil. The ', and were iich a small e fair and »te from the its vices or edomi'.ite, Crowe, an s here, and e, 70° 40' ; ing finished ame even- off Cheny n blowing ; vith a great CLAVERIXG AND SABINK. 07 nmiihcr of walruses. On the .']Oth rounded 1 laUluyt'.s JIfadlaiid, anchored aoreast of a small island, one of the inner Nuiweys, and the same on which ('a|)taiii I'liipps iii;i(ic his observations in 177.'!; dist'iiibarkcd the tiN.ts .-Mid iiistiniiicnts, and sent jiartics on shore to erect theiii. Two icindci.'r and a walrus were killed on the iieigh- boilnu' island of \'og(d iSung. l''rom hence Commander Cliivfiiiii: determined to push as far to the northward as lie tould, while Captain .Sabiiu^ was carrying on his pciidiibim observations, leaving jicre tor his assistance a. party of six men under the command of Mr. J"'oster Mild .Mr. Ho'.vland, assistant siii'geoii, together with his la;i(li. and six months' provisions and fuel, to carry them to llainmerfest, should any accident hap|)eii \o tlie C»ri- pcr ill her abstuice. lie sailed (in the .")th of July, and lau diKi north twenty-live miles from ('loveii (.'lilf; joiiiid himself embayed amoiiij; the ice ; and on the (ith the ship struck against something, whi(di turned out to be ice. This was discovered on the tog disptu'siiig, when a (ield of pfu'ked ice jirescnted its(df to view, ex- tending east and west as far as the eye could reach; the latitiuie observed was HO^ -JO', wliicli was the most north- ern obtained, for, iiaving skirted the margin in a line jiearly west for al>out sixty miles, and finding it trending Jo the southward, and (Mcrywlierc^ closely packed, and perceiving no ajipearance of an opening or of clear water, it was deemed us(dess to proceed farther, and the (iri- jier retnrned to the station, whi( h she rea(died on tiie ilth of .Inly. Captain Sabint^ having completed his operations — a parly having killed about fifty reindeer, as a supply of fresh provisions, and every thing b(Mng re-(!nibarked on the -^-^d of .J Illy — on the "JJth they put to sea. and ste(M'ed .■^.W. for tin* eastern coast of (ireenlaiid, a course that would bring them to (iat of wa- ti'i'. (Mavering thiid\S it the same which was discovei-ed 1)V (ia(d Hamkes in 1(!.")4, an . which benrs his nanu'. Ill an inlet from this bay, tin monntains oji botli sides wei'e of a great height, ending in immense glacier.., at Ifjist .')()(M) feet high. ( )ii the -Jiith of August they reach- etl the slii|)s, after a fatiguing absenct^ of thii'teen days. ( »ii the tollowing day ('ai)lain Sabine concluded liis ob- servations, the tents and instrnnuMits wei-e re-embarUed, and on the ;Ust of August the (iriper got under way. The latitude of the observatoiy on Pendulum ' -iland is 71- .".-J' lf»" N., longitude L- '■ .',()' \V. The shores to th(> southward contimu'd about .TOOO feet high, along wliicdi the shij) ))roceeded in a chamiel of clear water, the ice being live or six miles from the shore. Aijoiit Cape Pai'ry, howcn'er, latitude 7'2t,^, in a nai'row lane of water, two lloes suddenly closed to- gether, and th.- tongues projecting beneath (calns they are usually called), pressed the ('i-ipei- between them and lifted h«M* abaft considerably out of the water. She got clear without much damage : !)ut the ice was hang- ini: about Cape Pai'ry so close to the shoie. that the commander wisely stood out to sea. and (»n tlie l.'Uh of Se|)teml)er the- (Jripei' (ina.lly quitted the const of (Ireen- liuid. th(> whole lin that height. A violent gale came on. and the shij) was secured to a mass of ice ; received seveial severe shocks ; the hawsei's and sti'cani cables giive way : alsf) two chain cablt>s and two large hawsers; the gale increased; largo nnisses continually rolled in; the pressure becanie so violent that the whole of them ])art('d before daylight. '• ( )ui- situaticm." says the com- mander, "was now a most anxious one: the gale cou- tiiiiied with unabnted violem e. and the ship di'ove to 'he .-iiiithwai'd among loose ice and heavy lloes, whic-h, fnuu till' darkness ol' t'..> night, we coidd neither sec; nor avoid." 'j'he admirable manner, he says, in wlfich tho I'll lie (Iriper hud been streugtlieued, uUuwed her to beiu" if! •X ' 'I < 1^ I 'I i y. 'j « ■/ f I -» 100 ARCTIC VOVAGKS. tliP Rpvcro slidcks without l)t'iii2; iiijunMl; tlici licnviost shocks sho r«!C(!i'('(l oiiist have knocked ii ( iri'i'iiliiii(hiiiiti to pieces. '^i'h(! <:iil(^ coiitimi'iiif, (h'ove tliem to tlu' soiitliward, niid on the "Jiid of SroteiulxT tliey niiide the coiist of Norway in latitii(h' (i:V^ hW. On th(^ Ist of ()ctol)er tlie (ij'iper struck hard on a sunken rock, inid f^ot off undiun- niied : on the Itii entered J)ronth(>iui J-'iord, and on the (ith an(dioi-ed in the harl)or ; and "we were I'eceived,'' sfivs ('lavei'iiiii;, " witli the greatest kindness and hospi- taiitv." Captain Sid)in«^ having completed liis experi- ments here, tlie (Jriper procee(h'd down the tiord on the l.'>th of October, was detciinecl iti the naj'iows till the l!>th, and uiiain windl)ound till the l)d of Deceiuher, wlien she Wiis lihernted. and reacdu-d Dejjtford on the llUh of fliat month, l&2'.\. Wf now prarciuj to ^/re a britf account of Ctipta'ui, ^(ihinc's h/hors. The volume of Ciiptain Sabine, from whicdi the follow- iiii: notii'e is taken, idfords an extraoidinary instance of personal and nieiitfd Jipplication on distant voyayes and VMrions clinuites within the H^'opics and tlu; Arctic re- iiions. and (»f inttdlectual exertion and inchistry not eiisiiy to be paralleled. It consists of uu)re than li\e luuKh'ed ])ai:es of o!)serv;iti(>ns, carefully arriuiyed under various heads, made with tiimsit instruments, chronoirieters. clocks, and jXMididums; containinti, besides, numerous experiuuMits at the several stiitions touched iit by Com- luander (.'laveriuij;. iisidi-eiidy noticed, auKumtiuij to eiiiht in inimber on the two sides of tlu; Athmtic, at each ot' which the (diief authorities manifestiid the utmost reiid- iness to nll'ord every assistanc(\ both in our own colonies and It places beloniiinjj; to foi'ei hnndfiMl lulcr viirions irononicVcrs, ;, imnu'vous iit !)>■ C'oni- itinsi to ciiilit •, iit each of utmost r(>ii(l- own colonics iiivc bnt lit- liuplislu'd !)>' Jvcrul kinds of |to uppvcc'iate •ulations ncc- lUisions wliicli lions may I't) Ir at each sta- tion: So. 1. Times nf transit of stars, to nsrortain the )'atc of the cl.tck ; No. 'J. Adjiisimcnt of tclcx'oix' to tlm same vertical plane; No. '.]. J)aily ratt^ of chronometers tioiii precedini; transits ; No. 4. ( "omparison of cliroiiom- t'lei'and clock at exact intervals; Nos.o and (i compiise an acninnt ol the coincidences in the donMe series of each priidulnm. Kacli table, of course, occupied sev(>ral days. Tlir^ Pheasant left Sierra 1 .eone early in April, and nirived at New Vork o!i the Kith of Decemlx'i'; com- niniced ohserviitions on tiie "J'Jd, and coiichid<'(l on tho •M of Jan., \t^-2'A, in tin's last two of which Sal)in(' had ii co-()|)efator. 'I^he ohsei'vations were carried on at Co- liiiiiliia ( 'olleije ; and Captain Sabine says. "• 1 nmst ever ilccm myself to have been most hiiihiy foilmiate in tlu^ a<-ii){'iation whicli it procui'e(l m«» of the I'rolessoi- of Natnial and KxperiuuMital Philosophy and of (,'hemisti-y, .\lr. .lames lienwick, whose interest in tin; exi)eriin<'nts \v!is so stronuly excited as to induce^ him o t^ivc! me his iHni'iiiittinfi co-ope)*ation, a circumstance! peculiaily (h^- siniMe and satisfactory on an occasion in which the re- sults may liere^after come in question, in the; compai'ison (it tlie standai'd measurements of the two countries." Oil the otli of Febi'uary, IH-J.*}, the Pheasant ari'ived !it j'ortsmouth, and Captain Sabine liad tlie saiisfactiou nt' tiiidiiii; that a letter whicii he had written to Sir Hum- phrey J)avy from Maranham, proposinji; tiie extension of thf e\p(M"iments to the liiyh latitudes, had met the ap- |)r()l)ation of the Commissioners of Ijoiiiiituch; ; that J jord Melville's consent had been obtained for the employment nf one of his majesty's ships in its prosecution ; and that the (xripei" sloo|) of war, which had been en■■ t i "J > .ili f I" ' u i V i ■ I ( I I i J 102 ARCTIC VOYAGES. ?«r(Mvil](^ Tsliuid, hiul tiniiil:t C'irj)tuin Siil'ino to ho noros- anvy, Wfic Hiiiiiiltjincoiisly coiiiplcti'd \\\[\\ \\\i\ ('(mip- iiMMit of tli(! (iripcr. Tlifil vi'sscl left tlui Nor(! on tlio 11 til ot" Mfiy, 1111(1 aiTiv(Ml jit lliuiiincrfcst, tlio placo dcs- iflMiitcil l)y him jih liis first station, on tiio 4tli of .lune. A spot was sclcctcMl for tlu; oliscrvalioiis at Fiif^Uiiu'ss, wlioro Mr. Crowe, u ^enth-nian at tho head of a lari^o coniinercial establislinioiit, resides, and who ju;avo every j)ossil)lo assisluiico and attention to tlie jiaily. Hero Captain Sabine rejieated th(5 same routine of observa- tions — \\w transits of the sun and stars — tlie determiiia- lion of the rate of clironometers by zenith (hstauces — tlie coincidences observed with two pt'iidukmis. These were all completed by the 23d of June : the iiistniments embarked, and the (J riper arrived at I'air Haven, on the coast of Spitzberfjen, on tlu^ 1st of July. The (i riper anchored at one of the; Norw'eys, wliicli forms, with the coast of SpitzberyiMi, the harbor of Fair ITaven. Here the experiments proceeded without interruption, beiiiij; tho same series as that practiced at Hammcrfest, and were concluded on the 19th of July. From hence Captain Sabine, beinjf desirous of preserv- ing unbroken the continuity of the account of the pendu- lum experiments, proposed that no tinu; should be lost in proceeding to a ])roper station on the east coast of Greenland, which the (jriper successfully accomjjlishcd in a higher latitude than is recorded to have been pre- viously traversed, namely, between tlu; 74th and 7")th degrees, in the second week of August. Being stopped, however, soon after he had passed the 75th parallel, and tho season fidvancing, he returned along the coast to a harbor of safe anchorage in latitude 74° 30', Avhich ho had noticed in passing to tho northward. Hero tho (J riper was anchored, and became the station for con- ducting the pendulum experiments. This harbor is formed by the channel which separates the main land from an island, on which the experiments vere made, and which is secured from tlie access of heavy ice from the ocean by a smaller island in the mid- channel of the entrance. The group, of which these islands form a part, consists of two nearly of the same size, and two others much smaller, being rather rocks 1 CLAVEUING AND SAIJINK. 103 M 11 ) 1)(3 IKiCOS- tlio «'(|uii)- Joro oil tlio ^ place (1«'S- th of June. Fuffloiiess, I of a larj;© iTfivc every Lity. Ueio of oljservu- 1 (letenniiiii- (listances — lus. These instnmients • Haven, on ►vey^ , which e harbor of 3(leil without practiced at 9th of July. s of preserv- >f llie penchi- liould be lost ;ast coast of acc()ni])lished ve been pre- 4th and 7;')th eing stopped, 1 parallel, and le coast to a 50', which he Here the itiou for con- lich separates } experiments the access ot id in tlie iiiid- which these of the same r rather rocUg tliaii islands : they exttMid from llu; latitud*? of 7 1^ OO' to that nf 7 4 •!•,*', and were distiiiiiuished hy the ollictM-s and .sfiUiK'H of t!u! (tri|)er by the appellation of the Pendulum UIiukIs. If had been the intention of ('a|)taiii Subine to iiiake l\eikiavik, in Iceland, the concludiiii!; station of the pciidiilum »^x|)eriments in tlie iiiu;h bititudi's; but when the 17tli of September liad arrived, before they found tJH'Mist'lves tiiially disenn between London and Melville Island was .{,'.,.,• Thus, says Captain Saliine, "the attempt to deter- mine the lij^ure of the earth, by the variations of ^ravit}- at its surface, lias heeii carried into full execution on an arc oftlie meriilian of the greatest accessible extent, and tlii^ results which it has prodnccMl arc* seen to be con- sistent with each other, in coml»iiiatioiis too vai'ied to ad- mit a pi'obability of the correspondence Ixmiij; accidental." '^riiey arcs in fact, the combinations ctf C.'a|)taiu Sabine's 1.'5 stations; of the I''rcMich savaiis' H stations: of the JJritish survey, 7 stations : makiiifi. in all. 'J;^ stations. This rcssult, however, of tlie ellii)ticity " ditfers,' says Sabine, " more considerably than couid have been ex- pected from ., .! _-- wliich liad been ])i-eviously received on the authority of the most eminent iieometrician of the ajie, as the concurrcMit indication of tlie measure- ments of terrestrial deirrees. of peiuhilum experiments, and of the lunar inetiualities de})endent on the oblateness of the earth." The success that lias attended the experiment of in- vestigatinii the tii;urc> of the earth by means of thc» pcMi- dulum, encourages, as C"a[)tain Sabine^ thinks, the Ijelief that an ecjually satisfactory conclusion, and one highly interesting in thi> comparison, might be obtained by tin* measiu'ement of terrestrial degrees ; that is to say. by an actual measurement of a degree of the meridian. This has, in fact, been donc^ in various j)arts of the \vorld, l)ut centuries ago, when the instruments were inferior, and the mode of their most advantageous em- l)l()yraent less understood than at present. In India an arc has recently been measured, and one of an old date at the Cape of Good Hope remeasured ; but Captain ]\ calciiliitioiis of tlu' sco fJi'lU'lill llt'- I'ity (»t" the viuioiis rul- v'^i' volmiif. •liiitll of tllP firiHvitutittn )1icity v,|-;y. DM l)t>t\V(M'U )t lo (Ictcr- is of ^I'liviry tiitioM oil ail t'Xtoiit, iiiid to !)(' coii- iii'umI to ad- accidi'iitiil." liii Saliiiio's ons : of tlio ■> stations, lillors,' says vo Ikmmi ox- sly locL'ivi'd lotrician of nu'iisuro- HiorinuMits, oblatoiH'ss iHMit of in- )f \\w ptMi- tho liofiff Olio hiijlily lU'd l)y tlio s to say. l)y nioriiliati. irts of tilt' icnts woro li^t'ous eiii- lii India an au old dato jut Captain CLAVERIXG AND SAIUNE. lOi ;j Siihino ])oints out S|)it/.l)('ri:tMi. hniiiix near to the Polar cxtrt'inity ot" the iiioiidiiiii. *' as tlif hiiid of most (•(n;vi'ii- u'lit accrss in j'ithcr lH'niis|»l>«'ro."' He says : '• 'I'lic iiccrsH to :ill iiiirls of the iiitri-i al a\ail : it extends in a due north and >oiiih direction flir ;ihipvt> 1-JO inih's, with a hreatllh vai yiiiL' from 10 to :{() miles, and communicates at its northern extrendly, l»v a short pa^s- ;!:,'(■ aciiis> the land, with tin- head of another iiord, proceed- iiii,' to meet it from tlie northern shores of the i>Iaiid. and af- finliiii,' similar tiicilities tiir cai'ryini,' on eilher a li'iaiiu'ula- tinn. Ill- a direct measuri-ment on tin- suiliice of the ice iit tho le\rl of the ocean." — 1'. 3(r-.\ lie adds, what is \ov\ tnio. tliat tlio iiicasiiriMiiont of II lunlion of tho moridian is one of the many oxperiiiient- al iiKjuiries bt-yond tho roach of individual iiioans to accomplish. This officer, iiidcfatiiiahlo in tlio pursuit of practical science, writes, in Fohniary. Is^'Jli, lo Mr. Davios (lil- ht'i't on tho suhjoct, onforcinji tho plan hy additional proofs of its practicability, and olforiiiij; his services : '•Should th(> (.'ouncil of tho Koyal Society tiiiiik that I could he advanta|L;eously imiployed in conduct iiiii such an i!i\estij^ation, my services, us you vvtdl know, are at tlieir command." He lias, however, been reserved for a more laborious and not a less important task. The iieoiiraphical deter- mination of the direction and intensity of the magnetic forces at dilferent points of the earth's surface has been reiiarded as an object wortiiy of especial reseai(di. To cNamine, in (hlferent parts of the iilobe, the declination, inclination, and intensity of the maiinetic torce. and their pei'iodical tuid secular variations, and mu*^iial rida- tioiis and dependencies, could only be duly \w Ui^ated in lixed mai^netical ohservatori<'s. ( )n the ( oiitinent some such observatoi'ies were eslablished, to wliicdi. in the year It^oCi, tlie uttentiun of JJhtish philosophers was iili K v.* hi '^fe f 1 lOG ARCTIC VOYAGES. Bpf'cifically (Irnwn by ii lott(M' from tho Baron voii Iltiiii- holdt to tlio Duk«5 of SusHi'X, then I'rc.suhMit of tlio Koyal Society. In consccjucnrc! tlicn'of, ohscrvatorics for this special purpose} wero established at (ireeiiwich, Diiltliti, Canada, llobart Town, St. Helena, Cape of (Jood IIop(\ and other jilaces. Th(< observations niado at Toi'onto have been leceived, examined, and jirinted, under tho supcM'intendence of Jjientenant-colonel Sabino — a work of extraordinary car«^ and labor.* He has uniitMtaken, besidi^s, to examine and arran^je tlio I'est as they come in, wiiicli it is expected will be in the course of tlm present year, 1H15. The volume now printed is inti'oduc<'d by an able and well-written preface by Col- onel Sabine. * See note in Introduction, p. 17. 1 CAPTAIN rAURv'd SECOND VOYAGE. 107 von IIuiii- It'llt of tlio )s('rviif()ric3 ireiMiwicli, a, Cape of itioiis nimlo lul ))i'iiito(|, DiH'l Sal)iiio * I Jo hius tlio rest as t\ui ronrso V printed is ICO by Col- CIIAPTER VT. CAPTAIN PARRY'S SECOND VOYAGE. 18-J 1-32-23. Joiirnrtl of a ficrond Voyage for the Disron'rj/ of a Norfk- ,rrsfJ>(jssa>r,'^fro,n the AtlniUic to the Pacific, la hu< Ma}. csfi/ n ships Fury and Ihrla. '\\\Y. nvo vpsscls np|)()iiirn(l for this voyago wore stnm.r nnd wcil-l)iiilr Ijomhs: the V\\y\, of .-r?? tons, juifl tlio JI.'clii. ;57o tons; ooninuindcd, olHciTud, and niannrd as iiiidcr : F'-UY. \y. Kdwiini 1 .rry, romninndcr. Cii'or-'c I''i,-li('r, (/hapluin aiul A.-^- troiioniiT. Joscjili N'iiiH, ) T • ^ AiKiivu- i.,,i,|. ^^T.ioutonant.^. .Iciiiii K(hvai-(ls, SurijiMiii. W. Harviy Hooix-r. I'lirsfr. Jimirs Skc(jch, Asriist. .Surircun. .Iiiliii llt'iiilci-.soii, J I'r. li. M. Cnizicr, > Midshiijinrn. .1,1-. Clarke Jioss, > Jdlin llii.-liiian, Assistant vryor ajiil Miiisliijiiiiali. Jaiiifs IJulsL', Cl(.rk. hJ ( )llicfTS, 5 Warrant Otlicrrs. ]1 i'rtty Ollii-.'rs. x!4 Alilr Seamen. _t< .Marines (including 1 Sergeant). tJO Tutal on board. Hkcla. Geo. Francis I, yon, Comninndor. Jlen. I'erkyns Uoppner, \, . , Cliaries I'almer, J Licuts. Alexander Fisher, Surijeon. •lolin .lennain, I'nrser. Allan M'l.aren, Assist. .Sun^i.'OU. Joseph ."^lierer, 1 (.'harles Jtichard,'), [ Midship- W. Nelson (H-Uliths, f nien Fldward liird, J I William Mou:,', Clerk. ^"■',11 (Jflicers. Josej)h Macklin, Cunner. .losej.h Lilly, Ji'oatswain. (Miarles I'nrl'nr, Car])enter. (Jeorire Fife, (Jnvnland .^[aster. _ Al(>xan(ler Flder, do. Muto. .") Warrant Ollicers. 11 I'etty Ollicer-'. 24 Atile St.'ameu i 7 Marines. iiJc! Total ou hoiird, George Francis Lyo.v was a smart, clever lieuten- imt, at first ajipointed as actinji in the Berwick hy Sir K.lward 1 ellew; ho was wounded in an attack niado on that ship s boats, and liad his coninii.ssion coniinned to Jior HI 1814. He was then appointed to the Albion, und was ni the battle of Alijiers in 181(5. liein- „f an adventurous turn, while he was servinj; in the sfniadron under fen- Charles Penrose, he asked and obtained per- K'\ wi i>#4 If f lOH AUC'I'IC VOYACKr?. inissiuii iViiiii Sir (liiiilrs In join Mr. Kitcliic, ti i;i'iillr iiiaii ;i|)|)ii|iil<'il nil ii iiiisshmi to 'I'l'lpoli. .Moiir/nllU, ami oilier parts ^)\' Norlli Mrira, \\li«» was must (U'siroiis dl' liaviii;: a nasal nlliriM* to ac('niii|iaiiy him. Kitrliit- ilioij short I \ alter, ami I i\ on siueeeileil hnii ; who rone 1 1 a lei I, rea>onalily enough, that aiiioni; the Aral) trihes tiie /// n- h iKinf nnillit adsantaiieonsiy take upon him the title n|' captain a rank which, it appears, he iKaninally carrieil into the present voyage of discovery. < hi his appoint- ment to the llecia he receiveii the rank of commamler. ami on the ret urn ol ilie ships in 1 -*•.'.'! was raised to that ot captain. .Many otthe ollicers \vlio had sersed on the (irsi voy- Hije wer»' employed on this: i loi>i'.\ i:u, as lieutenant ol the llecia; K i»\v \ki>s, as sm'i;eon ; M idshipiuan I'm.m- i.ii, as lieutenant of the llecia. The midshipmen NiAS and Kkiii were promoted as lieutenants ol' the I'ury, and Koss, I'xishnan, and (irillith^ remained to serve lis midshipmen. Hooper, the |)urser, and lliilse, the clerk, each conliniied. as did Allison and ( 'rawl'ord, the (Jreen- liml master and mate, in the service, and ahoard the I'liry. She had also tour midshipmen : two new ones, ■loiiN I li.Mii'.KSoN and v. K. .M. ( 'iio/,ii:K, hesides Itoss and l> rsii N \N, who had served in the pri'ceiliiifi voya^ie. ('ommander INirry ohservini; on the late expedition ii liii'Ut' inlet, not less than ten leagues wide at its mouth, tfpeiiiiii: •'"' «"i 'li«' soiithei'ii coast ol' ihurow's Strait, a:id extending southernly, with an iiuruiation to the westward, ran the ships into it, and continued to the. southward ahout one hundred and twenty miles. I'lie soundings were foimd to he two hundred tatlioms and upward. The closeness (»!' the ice. however, to tlie southwest induced him to i-eturn to th(> northward ; luil liis impres>ioii was, that this strait miulit lead to the coast ol' America, iiud that the east and west lands whicli I'liclose it were jjrohahly islands ; and he says, '•l)n an insp»'ction ot" tiie charts, I think it will also a|)- pear pi-oiiable that a commuiiicatioii will one day lie i'ound to exist between this inlet and lludson's Uay, «'ither thi'ou<:h the broad and unex|)lored channel called Sir Thomas Koe's Welcome, or tln'oiii:h Ilepulst^ Hay, whicli has not yot been salisi'aclorily examined. It is < vl /iiiiU. mill •>iltilis ot' tcliic (lifil (iiiclinli'il, i tiir //' // • W lillr nl' lly ciinitMl >> iippuilil- iiiiiiiiii(lfi', -it'd to tliiit • first V(iy- iitfiiatit 111' lilll I' \I,M- iiiit-n NiAs till' I'liiy, () srr\»' in , tlw clfiU. ihf ( irmi- aliiiai'il the IH'W (»Ut'S, sides Koss iiij^ voyiiiif. \|)c(litioii 11 its IMOIltll, w's Strait , til to tlio .•(1 to tlio .•s. 'riic I01IIS aiitl \\ to tilt' wai'd ; liiit ad to tilt' wi'st lands I lu' says, ill idso ap- lo day III' son's r»ay. iiiii'l rallt'd lulso Hay, it'd. It is rATTAIN' TAUKY ri .SKCOM) VOVAiil'. lOJ) iilxii priil)nl)1i< tliat n cliMiiiirl will lio rnntiil to exist ho- twirii tlio wt'stcrii laud and the norllirrn vmisi ot' Ainrrica." Ill ilir passii'jo mIiovi) (pioti'd a roiiiidatioii appears to |i;i\f lieeii laid lor a voya::e. il not two, in tintlier seaiili (i| !i nurtliwesi passage. That searcli was not liUely lo III* tilitiiidoned when so e\perieiii'ed and talented a man 111 ( 'onnnander I'ar'i'y pointed ont what appeared to lie a i-liaiinel liy wliieh a passa^e nni;hl ho jonnd through ihe wesirrii land to the northern eoast of Ann-rira. At ' iM'dinnly, in a lew inonths alter his retnrn iVoiii ihn lii-^l soya^e, on the .'IHih ol" Meeeniher. IHJO, a eoinniis- >iiiti was si;j^ned appointing him eommander of the I'nry, and (III the llli ol° January liieiilenant Lyon was ap- piiinted rouMuander of the llerla. Mis majesty having, on the representation of Lord Mi'lMJje, ordeieil another attempt to lie made to diM'owr a passage hy sea lielweeii the Allantie and Tacilic ( h'tMiis, and to ascertain the ^eo^raphy of the northern liiiiuidaries of the Auu'rican rontinent, Parry's in>tru(- tmiis were to proceed toward or into lluilson's Strait. I Ic was tlien to |)enetrate to the westw urd throui:h thill; sliait mitil he should reach, either in Kepiilse ISay or on SI line other part of the shore of 1 1 ndson's Hay, to tho iiiiilh of Wauer Kiver, some portion of the coiist which lie slioidd feed convinced to he a portion of the continent. Ill' America, l-'ailiny of this, he was then to keej) alon^ the line of this coast to the northward, always examiniiii; e\i'iy liend or inlet wdiicdi should appear likely to afford a piiicticalile passau*' 'o H"' westward, in which diieo tidii il was the principal ohject of the voyage to endeavor Id find a way from the Atlantic to the I'acilic.' Theso instructions were sufficiently explicit, and accorded with the view taken hy ("ommandtM' Parry in his iiarralivo of the former voya<;i'. On the i-l, the Fury and Ilecia, ac- roinpiuiied by the Niutilus transport (treij^hted with stores and pi'ovisiiins to he transhipped on arriving at the ice), sailed fiom the \ore, aiid, owiiiir to Imd wcalher, it was not till the 11th of .June that they tniuid them- st'lvi's iij latitude (iO 4s', and saw the tii'st iceberg. At * AilJiii.'Mltv lii-trucliuiis K »{1 '1 1 n :(i /' ■J I no ARCTIC VOYAGES. tlic (It'ptli oT t(i(l rntlioiiis lli<> fcinptTUliirf^ of flio st^a >vii>( 10 , that ol" tilt' smiiicc, lO',' i Jiiwl lliiit ol" tli(^ Jiir. •II', . ( )ii ilic "Jij ot' .Inly lli(\v were cldst* to Kcsolniidii Islinni. the viilU'vs of whicli were lillrd with snow, and, with the io^ that linn<2; over it, " rmiU'i-ed tln^ scctii* hflurc ns itidcscrihahly dreary and disaurccahlc" " It r(M|uir«'s," says ( 'omniandcr I'iMry, "a lew days to he ])ass d amid scenes ol" this natnre to erase, in a certain desiree, the impressions left hy nior(< aiiiniatj'd land- scapes; and not till then, perhaps, does the eye lieconie I'aniiliari/ed, and the mind i-econciled, to pi-ospects ol' utter l)arrenness and desolation such as these rn<:^t d shoi'es present." The numerous icehei-^s, ol" which ( 'onimander Ijyon counted tirty-loui' in si^dit at one time, some of them not less than two hundrecl feel above the sea, were not calculated to enliven th(~ scene < )n th(> *Jd the ships wei'(> closcdy beset, though drilt- ini; I'apidjy aliout by tlm tides dui'iiii:; tlu* niiiht. 'I'he ice consisted ol" loose masses of bntken lloes, auiony; which tlie ships continned to b(> driven, sometimes in one di- rection and tlien in an opposite oiie ; and amouif these masses wei'e counted thirty icelieri.'s in sii:ht at a time, many oltlnMU whirleil about by tl:<' tides with ixreat ra- |)idity. Sev(U"il ot" these immense boiTu^s were from tit- ty tt) ninety I'eet above the suri"ac<> ot" th<- sea, each piob- ai)ly almost as many fathoms below it. The connnand- «'r, how(>ver, statt>s that the ber^s which thus driv<5 about are less dansierous to appi-oach than those aiironnd, aiiaiiist which a ship is liablt> to bo carried witii the whole force ol' the tide. On tiio Sth they wei'e still drilVmc; about aujotii; the ice, close to Kesoliition Island, without knowii'ij, durin;; the nii^ht. in wluit direction they wer(> carried ; rint when it clear(Ml up. they were surprised to find the Ifecia v\v.\- iMi or twelve miles to \\ivi westward, thoui!;h still beset in iiw ice. ( )n the IHh tho ice closed round them, and they remaine(l immoval)ly beset for a week, though carried by It daily from one to t'our miles. This is precisely whiit was alluded to at the conclusion of tht> last expe- dition ; anil it ap|)ears that the two .ships wtue in loss danger (in t"act. there was non(>) tlian those on the sho?'e of Melville Isliiuil. They were still, however, in the eu- )!' iIk^ son »»r tlic an-. Kcsoliitiiiii ^iiuw, mill. I>1.'." " It liiys to l>i' II a certain ati'il lainl- vr Ix'coiiu' osprcts (it 'St' niiii^t il , of Nvliicli <:lit lit one iiidrod It't'l \\\v scout' u)\\is}i (Irit't- t. 'IMlo \rr iioiiii wliich s in Olio (11- moiijj; tliosc t at a tiiiio. th yroal rn- To from lif- , each prol)- > roniiuaiid- i (lriv(^ al)(H)t ;t> aurtHimi, h1 Avith the. miotiii till' vii'ii, (luviii;; out when llocia oUn- still l)Osot ill n, and tlicy wilh can-i.-d is |)rocis»'!y last ox|>''- voit' in loss )n tli(» shon; r, iM tho oii- CAPTAIN TARRY S SECOND VOVAGK. Ill fraiict; only of llndson's Sti'ait, whitli, ladnif exposed to till' swell oftlie main ocean, iind completely open to tlit^ innncnce of llio whole Atlantic, lias always heen consid- end. \>y tlie ships of the lln'lson's l>ay Company, a most daiiiierous and difficult position: three of these were seen here in a similar predicament with tiie discov- eiy ships, in |)r()ceedin^ up tho strait, several Kstpii- inaiix canoes, or laijuks, made tlieir appearance, oller- iiiir seal and whalt; oil, spears, skins of th»^ seal, hear, fox, \'c., for salt*. After them came a lar^e onin'utk, or woinaii's hoat ; their tilthy customs, lir):vever, disgusted the seamen who i!;ave tluMii no sort of encouragement. "()ii till* whole," says l*ai'ry, "it was impossible toi* us not to receive a very unfavorable impression of tho yeiieial behavior and nion ' character of tlui natives ol" this pait of llndson's Strait, who seem to liuve ac(|uired, by an annuaJ intercourse with our ships for nearly a hun- dred years, many of the vices wlfudi unhappily attend a lirst intercourse witli the civilized world, without having imbibed any of tlici virtues or reliiuunents wliich a(l(»rii and render it happy." Ilaviiiir I'caclied Soutliampton Island, near its nortliern extremity, whert* tlu* continuity oftlie land appeared to be dissolved, l*arry concluded they were not far from the eastern entrance! of tlu^ Frozrn S/raif, which had occasioned so much unij;ry discussion, a huiiihed years iii;o, as to wh(*tli(jr any sucli strait existed, or whether it was not a chimera hiveiittMJ by ("aptain Middleton. As this f^e()^ra])hical point had iievtu* been (h'cith'd, Par- ry liad some difticulty in determininj: thc! (|iiestioii of tryiiij; it or not, as, in iiis jiresent position with I'e^ard to .Kepulso Bay, which he was ordered to examine, the distance was not more by jiassiuii; that strait tlian fifty leagues, whereas, if compidled to pursue a routt* round llie south end of Southani|)ton Island, it would make the distance from om^ hundred and seventy to two Imndreii leamu^s. " After thtunost anxious consideration, I caiiio ti» the resolution of attempting tln^ direct passage of the J'rozen Strait, thouyh, I contess, not without some ap- ])reh(!nsion of the risk I was incurriiiii;, and of the seri- ous loss of time wliich — in case of failure eittier from the non-oxisteiice of the strait, or from the iiisuperublo V 1 I! ; , '« I.) I; II ! 112 ARCTIC VOYAGKt*. ()l)sfa('l('>4 wliicli its iijiiiu^ implies — would llnis be iiu'vi- taldy occiisidiu'd to the (>\|»('(liti()ii." Ills decision wiis rii;lil ; mid, tlioiii!;li uiucli liiim])(M('(l ')y does, and homniocs, and packs of ice, lie was still less ^o than in tln^ nci^lihorliood of Kcsohitioii Islaml ; and lie was rewai'iled l)V the discovery, not tar from its entrance, of what lie calls "a maiiniticent hay," which the otlicers honored with tlu* name of tht^ " Duke of ^ Ork's IJay," havinij; heeu tii'st entei-ed on Jiis hirthday. It is situated on the iiortheasrerp extremity of South- am|)lon Island. 'J'he hay, however, on the western sidn was shut in hy a low shore, whicdi it was concluded could he no other than " the low, shini^ly heacli, liko l)un<:;en- ess," ot" .Middleton. He found it necessary, therefor(\ to r<>ti'ace his stops, and to encounter -nice more the Frozen Strait, with its rocks and islets, its irreuulnr tides and honuiu)cs of lloat- iuii ice ; and what was, perhaps, worse than all, dark, foiliry weal her, w ith compasses that had almost lost their action, lie soon, however, i^ot into water neaily tre(^ iVom ice. which allowed him to proceed west(M-|y, hut entiridy by the lead for live or six houis, when, on the weatluM- cleariui; up, he iound himself almost entirely surrounded by laud, " havinji uncons(;iously entered Ke- j)ulse Hay. in wlfudi not a jiit c(> of ice was to be seen that could ohsti'uct us in its thorough exanfniatiou." This full examination was certainly liiven to it: and whatever doubts uii<;ht liitherto have been entertained I'espectiiiii its coiuuumication with th(» Polar Sea, ( 'om- niander l*arry and his party, by their complete^ investi- jjation of the whole of its slu)res, have set that (piestion entirely at rest. The boats entered evei-y little creek and corner, " and thus Avas the (piestion settltMl as to the continuity of knid round Hepulse l>ay, and ti'.e doubts aud coujectures wlfudi had so loiii; been eiittu'taiued re- spectiiiii it set at I'est forever." Parry takes the oppor- tunity, luoi'eover, of doiiiix ample justice to that injm-ed and persecuted navigator. Captain .Middleton. "The whole account. ■■ he says, " that he has ijiven of this bay, with the ex(!eptioii of its ijeoirraphical position, is in jien- eral very accurate, particularly in the appearance of tin* hiinU, tlu'ir relative situation, mid in the nature and depth 1 CAPTAIN PAKRV S SF.CONn VOYAcn. lir? i 1)0 iiicvi- liimn)(M his steps, it, with its cs of" lldiU- 1 all, diiiU, t lost their icai'ly tVtM^ ■storiy, iMit It'll, on tlio [st '.Mitir«'ly itci-t'd Kc- 1)0 seen ion." to it : anil ntcrtaiiu'd M'a. (*oni- lo iiivosti- it (jnostion ttlo crook as to tho i.o doubts •taiiiod ro- tho opjior- lat iiijurod n. ''Tho )t" this hay, . is in jzon- nco ot" tho and doptli nf tho soundincs." And with rospect to tho l-'rozon StiMir. tlit'i'c can 1)0 liltlo doulit, ho ^ays, that tho accoiiut winch .Middlotoii has iiivoii of its appraranco. as soon troin Capo h'rii^id, is in tho main a taitht'ul oiio : "• \l)ov(^ all. tho accuracy ot" Captain Aliddlotoii is iiianit'ost upon tho point most stroniioiisly ariiuod against him l>y Sh-. ])(tl)lis; for oui' sui)so(pioiii oxpoi-iouco has not loft the siiiiillost (loul)t ()t"l\opnlso liay. and tho northoni part of tJic Wolcoiiio. hoiiif; fdlod with a rapid tide, (lowiiii; into it from tho eastward, tliroiiidi tho l-'ro/on Sti-ait." Tho appoaranco of tho snores of |Jopuls(> Bay was far from uninviting. '• 'J'ho sm'roiindiiiu land rose from six or sovon hmidrod to a thousand foot, and there was no want of vouotatioii usually found in tiiis part ol" the Arctic roL'ions, and in many jiarts it was oxtreiiMdy lux- uriant." Koindoor and hares \V(!ro pUuitiful ; so were (lucks, dovokios, and siioAy - l)mitiim;s. Several Mack A\ hides also wore ohsorved in the huV. In one s|)ot the remains ol" no less than sixty Mscpiimaux hahilatious were found, consisting; of stomas laici oiu^ over the other, in very rounlar circles, ( i^ht or nine feet in diameter; be- sides about a hundred artificial strn(;^turos, liroplaci's, storo-hous(^s, and other walk'd enclosures tour or tive feet high, used for keopiiij; their skin canoes from being i:i)ii\vod by the doi;s. jii various parts ot" the shore wore found numbers of circles of stones, wliicli wore suppos(>d to have been biiryinu-places, a human skull boiui: t()und near one of them. Among tlu!S(^ stones the Hudson mouse was very abundant. '* I do not know," says I'ar- rv. "whether tho seals' flesh romaiuiiiij; on som<» of liio bones was any attraction to these creatures, but it is cor- tiiin that, when two of them were put togetlier into a Cairo, the larjier killed tho other, and ate a part of it." Commander J*arry having now satisfactorily dotor- iniiied the iion-exist(Mioe of a passage to the westward tliroii^li JU'pulse Hay, he was next, in compliance with bis iii;>li ..inioiis, "to keep along tln^ line of this coast to the iiorthwaril, always examining every bend or inlet which might appear likely toal"t"or(l a practicable passage to IJio westward;" and he congratulates himstdf on hav- ing reacdied this point so early, and ♦■spiu;ially ''at hav- nv^ passed, uliuost without impediiiiont, the strait to 8 Jv -J III, ; I I ! I'- ll 114 AKCTIC \OYAGE.-?. wliicli, on noai-ly the smiio day sfvotity-niiiP years ho- fi)i'o, so rorbiddiiif^ a name had been applied." lie had not yet, liowever, got rid of that forniidahic strait, witli its obnoxious name. In coasting down the nortiiern shore ot" Repulse JJay, it was necessary again to cross tlie nortli«>rn part ot" the Frozen Strait, and pass througli llurd's Channel, which was nearly blocked up by Bushnan Island, leaving only a narrow passage; at each exti'emity to get to the eastward ; and, when pass- ed, otlier islands and narrow channels occur, among Avhirh were found such j-apid tides, hurling large masses of ice about, as to carry tlui sliips every moment into innninent danger. And when they Inid in some meas- ure got through this labyrinth, after loiiir, anxious, ami toilsonu; labor, a frcvsh gale from the northward, on tlic 3(1 of September, di'ifted the large Hoe of ice to whi'li the ships wcM'e attached to a greater distance than '• I ever remcml)er," says l*arry, " to liave hapjiened before m the same time under any circumstances." JJut the most mortifying f)f all was the discoveiy tliat, .ifter all their toil, they had been driven back ])ast l)af(ni Island toward the two )"enjarkal)le hills on Southampton Island, from which they were at noon not more than seven or eight leagues distant. " IMnas," says Pariy, " after a Viborious investigation, which occpied one month, we hii'i, by a concurrence oi unavoidable circumstances, re- turned to nearly the same spot ns that on which we hail been on the Gth of August. This untowani event may serve to show the value of ever the snrallest geographi- cal information, in seas where not an hour must be thrown away or ur profitably employed." The wliole of tli.s voyage, froM the first entrance of Hudson's Strait to the point now reached, has proved so harassing, so unproductive, and so dangerous withal, as to have required from him who liad the conducting of it a more than ordinary share of patience, persever- ance, and equanimity, possessing a t(;mper not easily to bo ruflled : and such an ofticer was Parry. His great object, when in extrenn? difficulty, he tells us. was to cheer up the s})irits of his people, and to k(>ep them constantly on the alert and moving whenever such diiriculty occuired, even when there was no prosj)ect of It V. years bo- I forinidahlc ig down tilt' 3ssary i\y the loth of .Sej)tember, how«ner. they had exainined numerous inlets and openings on the Ameri- can coast, and among others, a very extensiv(» and deep one, to which Parry gave the name of Lyon's Tnlet- A'arious creeks and coves were also examined by the boats ; but tlie continuity of the land was <>very where determined, and no passage found to tlii' westward. Tliey fell in with a small tribe of Esquimaux, whosn habitations were visited, and the inmates found to be " a good-humored and decent sort of j)eople." One lad, in particular, is described as " uncommonly quick and clever in comprehending our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree^ of good-humor and docility whi( h, on our short acquaintance, made him a great favoiito among us. In some of the bays and inlets the ice reiuained fixed and unbroken, and, as far as could be seen, grounded along the coast. Still they proceeded, passing by no creek or inlet without landing or boating to examine it thoroughly. On the 1st of October some rain fell, which, immediately freezing, made the decks and ropes as smooth and slippery as glass. For several da^'s be- fore, the thermometer had permanently fallen below the freezing point ; and the rapid formation of young ice near the shores gave pretty evident notice of the ap- jjroach of winter. On the Gth of October, Pariy says, " There beuig now only an hour's daylight remaining, \"h \\ n ! ) ^' V i m It 'I, I i i, ! 'I' itl( I: 1 :!'. .J* t IIG AUCTIC voya(;es \]\o younji ico fiisl 'mrvpiisiii};, and n strong tide riimiiii<;; ill tlic olfiliii. I ^viis (»h|in;('(l to rcliiKiiiisli the idcii of iiioviiii; till tilt' iiioniiiii:;."' ( )ii the J^tli the tlirniioiiic- tt'f \vas down to /.cro, iiiid th(^ scii was covcnMl with yoiiiiii ico, of which wo hnMt th(! I'olhjwiiii; description : " 'riic rfiniiiilioii (it'voiiui: ice npnii tlir siirliicc ol" the water is the ciiTu: "Stance wliicli iiiest (lecidediy l)ei:iiis to ])iit a stop to the iiavii.'atioii of these seas, and warns the seaman that his season of active o])erations is nearly at an end. It is indeed scarcely possible to cdiKM'ive the degree of liinderance occa- sioned by this iiiipediiiieiit, trilhug as it always ap|)ears be- fore it is (Miconntered. When the sheet has ac(|uired a thick- ness of abont half an inch, and is of coiisideralde extent, a ship is liable to i)e stopjji'd bv it nnless fiivored i)y a stron;^ and fr»>e wind ; and I'veii when still retainiiii: her way throni.'h the water, at the rat«^ of a mile an hour, lier conrse is not always under the control of the helmsman. tlioiiLdi assisted l)y the nicest attention to the action of the sails, but depends npoii some accidental iiicri'ase or decrease in the thickness of the sheet of ice, with which oiio how or the other comes in contact. Nor is it |)ossible in this situation titr llie boats to ri'nder their usual assistance, by runniiii; out lines or other- wise ; for, havinir once entered the yoniiL' ice, they can only he ])roj)elled slowly through it by digging the oars and boat- hooks hito it, at the same time breaking it across the bows, and bv rolling the boat from side to side. Alter continuing this laborious work for some time with little good etVect. and considerable damage to the planks and oars, a boat is often obliged to return the same way that she (Nime, backing out: in the canal thus formed to no |)urpose. A ship in this hel[t- less state, her sails hi vaiu ex])auded to a favorable breeze, her ordinary resources failing, and suddenly arrested in her course u[)on the I'lement through which slie has been accus- tomed to move without restraint, has often remindt'd me of (lulliver tied down bv the f(>ebl(> hands of Lilliputians; nor are the strug^rles she makes to etfect a release, and the apj)a- rtMit insignihcance of the means by which her etforts are op- posed, tliv^ least just or the least vexatious part of the re.s(uii- blance."— r. lit!, 117. The expediency of fixin2; upon some eligible place for the security of the shij)s for the winter could no Ioniser be douhtetl nor delayed. A small island lyiny o(f the northern point of tiie enti-iuice into Lj^on's Inlet was n^'eed upon by the two commanders, beino; found to all'ord good anchoi'age on its southern coast. '' Wo '. ^' \ I'liiiiuiiij; idt'Si nl' cniioiiit'- Tcd with icr'iptioii : ■the \v;i1<'r put a stop :iii that. Ills ; is incUM'd •aiK'L' (ici-a- ppeai"s hc- •cd a thick- • I'xtcnt, a ly a sti-oii,^^ ay tliniULdi iiisr is 111 it i:h assisted lit dcpriids hicUiii'ss of •V coiiu's in lie hoatri to .'S or otlii'f- •y ran only •s and hoat- s the hows, continuing ctVcrt, and oat is often )ackinL.' out n this lii'lp- )k' hrct •/.(', sti'd in her )een accus- i(h>d me ot lUtians; nor I the a]ipa- )rts are op- the reseni- plfico for no louijer \\ir Olf rho inh't was found to It. '^ Wo CAPTAIN TARRY d SECOND VOYAGE. 117 now." s!>ys Pany, "for the first time inilkx] on hoard tiie >hips., and before nii^ht we had thtMu niovtMl into their p''ir -s Uy sawin;,' a canal for tW(( or thi'ec hundred yards tin'ouiih \\\v ice." Jle adds: " ill reviewing' the events of this our fii'st season of na\ ii.';i- tiidi, unit considering: what proirress we had made towan ' (■ attainment ot'our main ohject, it was iin|io»il»le, iiowcver •.i: . .1... :. I.. ...'. 1 1 . I nil' aiiaimiK 111 <'i oui iiiimi i>i(|ii i, u >>■!> jiii|>i i^miih , iiw\\i-\i-i- tiililiiu' lli'tt progress miuiit appear upon the I'liart, not to ex- 1)1 rieiice considerahle siiti>laction. Small as oiU' actual ad- \,iiiri' h;id heen toward Uehriim's Strait, the extent of coast iiewlv discovered and minutely ex|>!ored in |>m'suit of our [ihjrcts, in the course of the last eiirhl weeks, amounted to iiiiiie than "-ItX) leagues, nearly half of which heloni^cd to tlio iniilinent of North America. This sei\ ice, not^vithstanilitu: ...L< . 11 >l i^Im It t <. V I tf k^l I I'.l lil till. 1M^lr.i \\-llti>ll II I t IMJ "I t > t ^-{....il •klt.l I ini iMir CI iiiikiM instant exposure to the risks which intricate, shoal, and )\vn channels, a sea loaded with ice, and a rapid tide I ;.. .......,....;..,, I.... I ,,...-.;. L.I, ii.. 11.. i. ...... ..(V........i \ II l^ilfliiui:!.^, fl .'^Itl lllilllllt \>llll M<. .111 (iinciirrcd in pre.seiitiiiLr, had providentially witlmiit injury to the shi|)s, or sutfei imr to the olliccrs and iiirii ; and we had now once more met with toleral)le securitv till' the ensiiinj,' wintei-, when ohli^'ed to relimpiisli farther iiperations for the season. Above all, however, 1 derived the iiiMst sincere satisfaction tioni a, conviction of havitiLT h't't no l>;irt of the coast from Repulse P)ay »>astward in a stale of t as lo its connection with the conlineiit. * ■■ ' ■ ■ * loiihi as lo lis connection wnii iiie coiniiienr. And as the iiaiii-laiid, now in siirhl from tin' hills, extended no iiirther to III' eastward than about a N..N.I;. beariiiir, we ventured to iiiiliiL'e a saiiiruine liopi- of our bein:: very near tli<> north- eastern boundary of .Vmerica, and that the early part of the next sea.son would Wnd us em|)loyinir our bt.'st etVorts in push- '■■■,' alon;: it.s northern shores." — 1'. 1 1!{. reiiiir now llxed in their winter quarters, it is .scarccdy necessary to say tliat tlie first and earliest attention of tiie ])ro\i(h.Mit commander was ilireel(Ml to tlie security ..,' .1... .1.:... *i , ,.., r I... .: V I — "^ ^ ; • .\ 111 tlie slfips, the arranijjenuMits for tlu^ preservation of rleanliness, lioalth, and cmufort duriiiii a lon;j; prospect- ive winter, as widi as t"oi' tlie economical e.xpenditure of |)ii)visioiis, fiud, and all otiu^r stores. At first, anil for some time, apprehension was entertainspectin^ tlio security of the .ships in tm open I'uadstead facini; tho smith, !is th(^ ji^romided masses on tlu; sliores of the hay lii'uan to sliow syin|)toiiis of instability, oiu? or two hav- iiiu fallen over, and others turned round, so that, instead iif heiiiti a protection, these masses iiii^ht lj(! looked iipua lather as dangerous neighbors ; other circumstaucua \'\ 1 1 \ V. m ' '!i"'" I'l /i lis AKCTIO VOYACF,!^. >vt'i«» calculiiltMl to fxcilc !i|)|)i rlit'iisiotis of (l;mLjt'r, l)iif. ii;i|t|)ily. tlicy (••. iTiiKiiiird liiiii ii'^ rcicUs. It iiiiiy Im' (jiiilc ciM'tiiiii tliiit iidtliiiiL: \\!i^ dimttrd liy I'iirry that cnuld IimkI to the licallh iiiul citmroi"! ul' Ills <'i«'\v. iis line alt»Milioii lo I'lcaiiliiicss, superior wanulli, (Iryiiiii; ol" clollirs, airiiiij, tli(» hoddiii^. and slccpiiiu: in IniiniMocs, l)\ whitli \t>ntiIatioii is nial»Miallv nioniolrd. lie sa\ s : '• \\ lull' cure w:i-< tlius tiiUcii to adnpt all plivsical nn>;ni^ widiiii our rcacli liir the niaiiilciianco nf inaldi and coinloii anioii:^ llic crews, recourse \\;is also liad to some t>\ a moral nature, wliicli experieni'c lias .sjidwii lo lie nsclul auxiliaries ill till' promotion ot these desirable uhjects. It would, per- haps, indeed lie dilliciill to iniai:iiie a situation in wliicli clieer- fuliiess is iuor<> to lie desired, or less likelv to lie inaiiitailied. tliui) anion,' a set ol persons (^and those persons seanii'ii toiO hecliided lor an uncertain and indefinite period t'roni the rest of the world; lia\ in^ little or no eiiiplovment Imt that which is in a inannei- created to prevent idleness, and suliject to a decree of tedious inonotony ill accordin:: w illi their usual liahits. It was not, liowevt>r, simply as a irinieral principle. Jipjilicalile in a ureatt-r or less deL'reo to all situations and societies, that the preservation of cheerfulness and i,'oiid hu- mor was in our cas(> ]>articularlv desirable, hut as iiiinie- «liatelv connected with the preventieii of that disease to w liicli «Mir irews w en^ must liable, and w hich indeed, in all hnniaii jirobabilitv, we had aloin^ any cause to dread. The astonish- im,' eHcts piddiu'i'd bv the p.assions of the mind, ill induciiiu' or renio\ liii: scorbutic svmptoms, are too well known to need eontirmation or to admit of doubt ; those calculated to ex the mind haviii:,' lieeii invariably found to aid in a surprising,' manner the cure «)f this extraordinary disease, and those of an opposite nature to a^irravate its fatal maliL'iiity. As a source, tliin-efore, nt rational amusemiMit to the men, 1 proposed to ("oinmauder l.\-oii and the otHcers of both ships once more to set on Hiot a .•-eriesi of theatrical entertainments, from xvliicli so much bene- fit in this way had on a fin-mer occasion betni (l(>rived. This proposal was immediately and unanimously aci[uiesced in. Lyon obliLMiiL'ly undertook to b.« dur mana:,'er, and some pre]>araliou liavin^ been math' for tliis |)urpose ])r<>\iou.s to leaviiiii V'.n^lind, every fhiiiii was soon arrani:ed liir ]ierforiii- i ini: a I'lay on board the Fuiy once a fortnii:ht. In this, as in jjjure imiiortuut matters, our fLirmei experience gave many ' r npT, ImiI, lips, (»ii('i> \ !is rticKs. uiiillffl liy loll i>r Ills r wiinnlli, iltM'|)inu ill pittlUOti'll. SICMI nif:)iir4 liul cniiitorl (if ;i tiiiinil I iiiixili.irir-* would, piM- Aliiili cliriM- iii;iiiit;iinctl. SCIIIlU'll toiO Vom llii' ''t">t t thai wliith sul)i<'«M It' :i I tlii'ir usual r.il |iriiici|>li'. itUMliniis iiiul 11(1 ^odil Im- it as iinini'- Msc to wliifli II all lumiiui 'lie astonish- in intlui-inu' KWIl to Ut-l'll led to ox- M-ivcd. This •([uiosct'd 111. ■ 1-. and suini' jiroxious to I'oi- porii>iiii- lii this, as In •'ave niaiiv rATTAIN TAURY tA SKCOXn Vt)VA(;K. 110 n>iofiil liints. Our llioa1(>r was now l.iid out on a lafiror amf iiKirc coniinodions scale ; its do(i>r;itiiiiiH iiMuli ini|irovc(l ; .111(1. what was nioi'o o>->riili.il Itnlli tn actors and aiidirnco, ii iiinrc olliciont plan ad(i|ilcd liir w.irniini,' it. l>v wliicli u(» .>iii cccdod in Ucr|iiiiu' iIk" Icmpoiatiiro .several dei.'rees .'iIidvo ;,/,/ III! each nif^ht ol' jx-i roiniance thron^Jioiil the winter." — I'. !•.'■:. ]■-':!- And ln' iidd.s, in ii iiohs •• I can not omit, to .neiition tliat., jiist lieforo we left llni;- 1:111(1, a lai'LT'" and iiandsoiiie /ifninfasmdi^onn, or inai^ic laii- tcni, li id Iteeii presented to me, tiw the nse ot the e\|)editioii, li\ a lad\, who persisted in Ueepiiij,' her name a secret iVoiu tJiiiNC whiiin she was .!nis servini,'. This ap|)araliis, whicli x\;is excellent ot' its kind, was tVe(|iientlv resorted to diirini^ TJii- and the succeeding,' winter; and 1 am iiappv to avail nivscirof this mode — the imly oii(> in mv powci' — ol" thankini^ our lieiiet;ictress. .and assiirinir her that iier present aHin-ded a tiiiid (iramnsemenl, i'ully answering' tier kind intentions." No iiiaii ^v)ls hcttcf !ic(piaiiilt'd with tlii' clinraclcr mid Iccliiiiis ol" scamt'ii lliaii l*aiTv. Ho kiirw lliut mirlli, ;inil oilier oxcitt'iiuMits to (•liocrridiicss, if too often ro- p(iited with little or IK) vaii;iti(Mi, ar(> iipt lo lose their ell'iMt. I''ull_v aware of this, tiiul with a view to hii;her olijiM'ts, it (VkI not escape his rellectioii that, (hirini; tho 1(111^ winter ni^ht.s, when for ii certaiii period the whohi day was in fact a ni^lit, an oi)portiinity miiiht he iilford- >'il for iiistnictini; the men of hoth ships in at letist tlui ."It'ineiitary parts of education. To this end he says, "To furnish rational and useful orcn|)atioii to the men on ilic other eveiiiiiiis, a .school was also estai)lislied. nndei- the vdlmitarv sn|ii rinteiidenco of Mr. Iliilse, for the instruction of such of th(> men as were willinir to take advantage of this (i|>|>(irtiiiiitv of leainin^ to read and write, oi- of iniprovini,' in lliDse actpiirenients. The same |)laii was a(h>pted on lioard the Hecla, Henjamin White, one of the .seamen, wlio had he(Mi C(liu'ati>d at ("hrisl-chnrch school, volnnteerin^r to olViciate as N(li(Milmaster. 'I'.ahles were set np fir the jinipose in the fiiitlsliip part of the lower deck; some of the men, already tliiis(|u;ditied, nndertook the task of a.ssistinir in the iiistrnctioii 'it' their .shipmates; and thus were alioiil twenty individuals hcjiitiijini,' to each .slii|) occupied (>very evenitiir, froni si.x t<» eiulit o'clock. 1 made a point of visitimr the school occasion- ally during the winter, hy wav of eiiconrai^ing the men in tLis pruLst'wortby occupation., and 1 can safely say that I liavo \i V . ' I. \ I'JO AIUTU' VOYAC.r.H. Hrldtun r\|i(>i'ii'H(C(l j'rcliims of liiulirr ^irnlilK almii tliaii on tins I'iMc .'iiiii iiil.K .-liii- M-hl." — 1'. l-j:t. I-JI. Ami well iiiii:lil Ik' he ^nitilinl ; lnr we ill'«< ilsHiirt'iI li\ liini. on llir rcliini nrilic ships to I'lii^liiiid, tliiit "cNcrv in:iii oil l)(i;inl cuiilil ri'iid Ins liililc." •Nor writ" the iiitcrrsis {\'( sciriii't' iic^lcctrd \vlrili' ttit'sf dtimi'slic iiniiiii;ciiitMits wcri' in prouicss. A poit lihlc (iliscrviitoiT \v;is citcUmI lor iiiii^iictinil olistTvu t ions. Mild II I MM ISO I II I ill lor the rocoprMin oT tlit> r(<(|iiisiio iiistinnuMits lor M-iroiioiniciil oliscrMilions, mi id lor \m nous cNpcriiiioiits rccoiiiiiKMidod hy \\ cimiiii ' 'o oI'iIic I\o\ - nl Sociotv. Ill short, nothing w ms iic^jrclcd or oinillcd thill could contrihiili' to tho riillilliiionl of the iiistriutioiis rort'i\»'d li_v tlit> j'oiniiiMiidrr of tho oxpoditioii titiiii tho Lords of the Adiiiiriiliy . Am ol)S('r\Mli(tii of Pnirv shows thiit tlio Arctic cli- liiMtt'. ('(pKilly with our own. is intlin'iicoil hy a chaiim- of the wind. 'Vhiis. on the 'JiUli of ( )ctol)('r, when tin- ■wind WMS N.N.W'.. tlio thcrinoiiiclcr It'll to —10'; hui Vl'('rill^ to till' S.M. on the -jith mikI ■,'')th. it rose lo -f'J.'>'. " I iiKiy |)ossil)ly," lie says. " incur tho ch;ir;:c <»r allt'ct itioii ill slMtiiiii tluit this ti'inpcrMtiirc wms iiiik h too liiiih •(• l)o iiurot'Miilo to us: liiit it is. novorthclcss. tlic ImcI. ihiit o\orv liodv toll and coiiiplMinod of llic clianiii'. This is explained hy their «'lothiin:. hcddiii;:. tiros, and other precautious aiiainst the sevi'rily ol" the cliiiiMte. haviiii; Ihmmi once adapted to a low deiiree ot" cold, an increase of teni|»eratiire lenders them ojipress- i\ (' and inconv(Miieut." Another circumstance is iiumi- tioiied. which may st'rve to contirm a conjecture which has loiiii heen maintained hy soiii»>. that an open sea. l'ret> ol" ice, exists iit or lUNir tlu' Pole. " On tlie 'Jd ol" Noveiiiliei' " says Parry, "the wind, rresheued up to a jial»' trom N. hy W'., lowered tlu> ihermoiueter ln'Tore iMithiiiihr to — ;") , whei-(>as a rise ol" wind at Melvilh* Island was iicuerally aceouipanitMl hy a sinuiltiineous riso ill the thetuionuMer at low tein[)eratur«>s. May not this," he aslvs. "\\\> occasioiu^d hy the wind hlowiiiy; over an open st>a in tht> (piarter rrom which the wind hlows. and ttMids to conlirm the opinion tliat at or near tiie Pole an ojien sea I'riu* ot' ice exists .'"' If the ice wlTudi a siii- jile niiiht ('^'^ six miMiths" continuous (hiralioii must pro- duce were not d;spi>rsod hy tho current tliut is kiiowu 1 inn iIkiii nil IlSSlll-t'll |l\ lint " CMM \ clfd while ;s. A poit- •nl (»lis('r\ii !(• l"l'(|llisitl' I ['{)]• Mll'ioil'^ III" llic K(t\ - I or oiiiillcil iiislriutitiiis 111 ti'dlll llio ' Arctic I'li- tv ii «liiiiim' r, wlii'ii tlic — 10 ; lull I. it rose Id • the cliaru'' I' \v;is iniK li (>\ (M'tlirlc^^. illi'tl tit' tile li dt" 111 (ipprt'ss- ICC is IlKMl- tiirc which I open sc;i, II tilt' 'Jtl dt" iit'd up td !l c\rv l)t'itin< at Melville taiU'Diis list) May iidl Idwinii ttvcr wiiitl liidw-;. ar tlid Ttilc wliitdi a siii- 1 must pi'd- l is kUdWU CAPTAIN TAUKY H SKCOM) VOVACJH. 1^1 to exist, mill which the I'tile iisell" nmy pnilnilily Ih> iht< taiise til" prtiihiciiii:, the iiditli w ii id. Mislead til lieiii it iiiipditaiice. Nnw the case was \i'\\ tliil'ereiil ; their wintering wjls no Iniiuei" an e\periiiieiit ; their ctiinltirts were greatly iii- citiisetl. and the |iriispect til" an early I'clease as lavdr- iilile as cdiild he ilesireil." ( )n ( "liristinas-diiy divin(> service was pertdriiieil on Imard tlie l''nry.iiml attemled liy the (illicers niiil crews til" htith shifts; an ailditional alldwance ol' prdvisiiuis was issued, "and the day was iiiarKed hy the nitist cheerliil hilarity, acctnnpanieil hy the utiudst i»'i:ularity and ^timl di'tler." Aiiioiii:; the lii\- iiiies was a juint dl" ^ddtl Miij^lish roast lieet", preserved liy the diitsitle heinp; iiilihetl w ith salt. The last diiv til' llie year lirdii<;ht with it tlic hii;h liiatilicatioii of ohserv- iiii;lhe excellent health and spirits enjoyed hy aliiitisf c\cry titlicer and iiiaii in Itotli ships. The diie iii\aliti was so much imprdved that sanguine liupes were enter- tained of his continiietl aniemlment. Ilavini; pittvided t'tir the emplttymeiit ami recreation (lithe men. Parry still seemed to think that it iniij,lit ho iiiiad. as, iiideetl. had Ixmmi anticipated, that want dl' iid\elty was a disadvantage likely to render the cdiiliiie- iiit'iit ol'tho ol'licers more tedious than he ("ore at .Melvillo Isliiiul ; hut this, he says, was nt»t the case ; the nieu hail always eiuploymcnt i'liou^li to prevent their hciiiff idle, thtiUjiih iitit, perhaps, sutlicient to prevent unpleasant tlitiuiihts tVdm dccasitinally ohti'iidinj; themselves ; luit the (itlicers alsd had mostly resources within themselves. \Vi\\\ rej^ard to tliem, he ohserves, that " what with reading;, writiiiix. makiiiii and calculating (ihservalituis. tih- scrxiiiii the varitius natural pheiidiiieiia, and takiiijLj tln^ exercise necessaiv to |)reserve our health, uohndy, I he- lieve, ever t"ell any symptoms of (iiniii duriuif our coil- tiiiuKiico in winter 1 V w AlU TIC Vov.^^J^'^^ " \min):; llic it'criviliniis \n lii< !■ ilVunli'd lln- lii-lic-if irniild- (Vllioti lo srvi'Kil .'IIIMMI;; W*. I IIIMV iiici liuii tlii> iiiii'^ii ;il p.nlKM we wiM'r i'ii.'ili|)<(l to liiilstiT, tliid ului li ii?«srinlil(> sUilltiil iiiii;il<'iirs III iiiiisjc- inifillt VM'II li;iM> sinili'il iit llii-si', our liiiiiil>li< rniiiTrls ; Iml it will not iiii liiii< tliciii to think I ox ot I lie xinu-o llicv aiiiniio to he ,i>siin'il ijiiit, 111 ttifsc iciiiotc jiiiil di'soliilo regions of llio fjlolto. it li.is ol'ti'ii riirni-hcd iH \\ itii till' iiio-it |>Ii':isiii ;il)lo sciisii- lioiis wlucli oiil' sitii.itHMi w.is r;n>;il(lc of iilVoidiii;; ; lor. iiido- piMidoutiv ortlic iniMT ninlilicMlion iilllirdod to tlio i-.iiltv ttiiHic, till ri« i«i, n(». si'Mrci-iy ii person in tlio world. ri>!illv Hmd of It, in \vliosi> niiiid its sound is not more or loss ronnrilid witli 'his liir-ilist.ini Innni'.' 'rhorc .iro .ilwiivs Honio roiiioin- Immiu'os \vliulirniidant. and the prospect to seaward so enli\ eiiiii;:, it wonid indeed hive Iteeii onr own tiinlts had w (< t'elt anv tliiiu; Imt eiijoN inent in our present st.ite, and the most lively ho|tes and e\peita- tions lor tlie I'ntiire."' — l'. 1 t;'.. Tlio liist (lay ol'llie new ytoiii>; ji viM'V seviMc owi" it) till" o|i(Mi air, tli«> tlieiiinniKMef down to — 00 ■. and the wind hlowiiii:; sfronj; tVoni tln> N.W'., on winch it mtiy he obstM'ViMl. tliaf the eHect of n slfon^ M>*>\.t-7il i\1\ tlllk tilMMtllVC <«\'Jtt1 111 f i1 II 1l\l 11'M f «\ clllimfitiJ I.J tiT ol an hour Avillioiit iiicotivtMii(Mic(> : wliilo. with ii iVi'sli bri'e/.i\ and tho tluMMiioinotof tioaiiy jis Itij^h as •/t>ro. I'twv people »'aii k»'ep their hands exposed so h»ii;; willunit coiisideiahlt* pain." Hv nu>ans ol' Svlvi'ster's stove. how'evt>r. mid ii jiuheious iirfanuenieiit of the lines, no inconvenience was tell in the siiips. even at the teiii- ll.Wlt 111-il .>♦' \;> \ pel ainre oi — .>:' . Oniiii;; th<" eold month of .lunimrv tVcM^iuMit oppoilii- nities occnvfoil o{' luaUinu a variety ot" ineteofoloiiieal obstM'vations on th(> Aurora l'(»rt>alis. on parludia, and ]i;iniselena\ and. at the same time, Mr. I'isluM- wtis l"ully i * CMTAIN r.MtKV H JT.roMl \i»VA(;i;. l^:\ t ' •. :;lnwf lynilin. lsi( .ll |1,||||ylv('stt'r's t' the lines, 1 lll(> tlMU- it ojipovtii- coroloixical rlicliii, mid r was fuHv oinployiMl ill ohsrrviii^ tlio dip, viiriiilioii, and iiiiliiwitiiiM nrilif iiia.Mirlic li Ho. Tlio olcit I oiiiolor wiis iVoipioiil- |\ iip|iliod to till' mast lioiid cliaiti. and llio miiiuiii-Iio iiii'ilif roiistaiill_\ VMilcliod dining all llio appoiiniiicri oi llic \iiioiii; lint iioillici' of t lioso was on liny on • 1 ;i-niM siMisilily alloctrd. I'laiiKlin, it may lio olisoivt'd, nil llii' slioros of llio I'olar Soa, loiiiid it olliorw iso. I III llio Is! ol I'olniiarN a now sonioo ol' noM-Jty miil iiiiiiisfiiionl most mioNpoctodly pio.oiitod ifsolf m tlio iinpi'oiii'li oT somo si ran^o poopio toward llio ships. lint, j'liirv imisl dosciilio tlic inlciviow. •• I III llio iiioiiiiii^ ol'llio I si of I 't'hiii.irv it \\ ;is ropoili d to 111,' ih.il ii iiiiiiihor III sIi;iiil:o poopio woro sorn lo llio \sosl- wMiil. rniiiiiii; lowiird llio >liip-. o\oi- llio iio. ( )ii diitcliiii; ;i ^liiss lowiiid llioni wo liMiiiil llioiii III ho l'.sipiini;iii\, iiiiil ;il>ii ili.-rovoiod soiiio iippo;ir;iiiio ol huts on slioio iil llio ;iiiio il iioci ion. | iiiiiiii'iiiiili'jv sol mil. III roiiip.'llliod h\ ( 'oiiiiii:iiii' I' l,\oii, iiii ollircr Iroiii o;i( h ship, ;ind two ol llio inoii. to moot iho iia- liM'-. w lio, III I III- iHinihor of liv o-;inil-l w only , woro duiw ii up ill ,1 liiir ;ihio;isl, ,'iiid still ;iil\ aiiioil slowly toward lis. \.h \\c appioai'liod iioaror lliov sloml slill, loiiiainiii;,' as holoro, ill il naiipaci lino, Irom wliicli llioy did no! nio\o liir soino tiiiio aflor wr ro.iiliod llioin. iNolliiiiL; coiild oxcood ihoir (iiiii'l iiiid oidorlv holiavioioii this occasion, which pn -oiiloil a MTV sliikiii^ coiilrasi with the noisy donioaiior of tho nalivos of lliulsoii's Strait. Tlioy ap|ioaroil at :i disliinco to Imvo iiniiws ill tlioir hands, hut what wc had lakon for hows or s|icais proNod to ho only a low hl.ados of whalohoiio, which llic\ had hioiiL;lil oillior as a poaco-olVoriiiL: or for h.iitoi. and which w(> ininicdialoly |)iircliMsod lor a low small nails and heads. Soiiio of the woiiion, of whom tlioi • woro ihroo or fiiii-. ,is woll as two childron, in this party, having' haiidsoino (lollies on, which attractod our attoiilion. llioy ho:;aii, to our iillcr astoiiishmoiil and constcrn.ition, to strip, ihoiiLdi tho liiciiiiomotor stood at ".'i holow /oro. Wo soon found, how- ever, tli.it lliero w.is nolhiiii,' so droadhil in this as wo at lirsf iiuauiiied, ovorv iiuliv idiial amom; them haviiii,' on a coniploto (louhlc suit. The wliolo woro of (h-or skin, and looked Imlli clean and conilhrtalilo."— I'. 1.^!). Tliis party ('(nKhictod ihomsidvc.'* with jj;i'»Mif dororum, and witlioiit any appichonsioii visihio on thiMr coiint**- nancos or iiiannor ; thcrolore, as soon as all tliat thoy hud lu sell luul been purcliased, ii >Yisii nyiis expressed by ' »a 1.: 'il 'I ■ r ■^ 124 ARCTIC VOYA'JES. sisiiis to a. fompaiiy tliciii to their liuts. The description wliicli I'oilow s is ciirioiis and idiiMcstiiiy : "When it is irmcmhcri'd thiit tlirsc liahitatioiis were tullv ^vililill siylit (il the >hi|).>. iiiid liinv iiiaiiy eves were cniitiiiUMliy ou tlu' look-out uiiioiiic lis liir any thing thai iMtiild atllnd variety or intcn'st in our present sitnation, <»ur snrpi-isc may in sonn' dei:i'ee Ije iniai.'ined at llndini: an estahli>hnient ot" live iiiils, with canoes, sleiL'es. (hti,'s, and aixAc sixty men, women, and <'hii(h'en, as rej^nlariy, and to aU a|)pearance as j)ei'manentlv lixed, as if they liad occupied the same spot ila- ihe whole waiter. 11 tlie first view of tiie exterior of lliis htlh' villas."' was such as to creiite astoni.->hment. tliat teehiii.' was in no BinaU deu'ree heiirhtent'd on acce|)linu' the invit; tion sodu jriveu ns to enter thi-se extraoichnary hnuses. iii llic construc- tion of which we observi-d diat notasinu'le material was nsed but snow and ice. After cree])iiii: thiini_di two lo>v u i. sai:<'s. liavini/ each it.s arched (htor-\Na\', we came to a sniaU circular apartment, of wliich the roof was a perfect arched tlDine. Fi'oiii tlii.s thn'e door-ways, al:;o arched and of lari^er diitieii- siiins than the outer ones, led into as man\ idiahited apar!- nients, one on I'acli side, and the otiii'r facin:: ns as we en- tered, 'i'he interior of diese presenteil a scene no less novid than interesting. 'Ihe women wi-re seated on the l»eds at. the sides of the huts, each liaving her little tireplace, or lamp, with all lier (h)mesti(t utensils ahout her; the children ci'ept behind tiieir motliers, and the dogs, except the female ones, which were induli:ed with a part of the beds, slunk out past. ns ill dismay. Tiie construction of this inhabited part ot the huts was similar to that of the outei- apartment, being a dome lormed by sepaiati- blocks of s^now, laid with great regularity iiiid net small art, each iieing cut into the slia|)e re(|uisite to form a .substantial arch, from seven to eight feet lii^di in tin; eenter. and having no support whatever but what this princi- ])le of i)uilding supi'lied. I shall not here farther describe the peculiarities of tla'se viirious edilices, remarkini: only that a cheerful and sutVicieiit light was admitted to them by a cii- ciilar wimlow of ice, neatly titled into the roof of each apart- ment." — 1'. 1()(). When we itdlect bow niaiiv volmiies have been writ- ten. Innv inneh discussion has taken place, b(nv mncdi learned coiijcM'tni'e on ibe iiivetition and oriirii) of tlie jircli, even in this liiter ag«'. wlial merit are we prepared to bestow on one of the most imh'. the most simple. hikI most isolute<'i lace ot' Immaii beings that exist .' Nature, assisted perhaps by observation, has taught this people tlie Irne priuci[)lo iind con.structiun ot"tli».< lu'eli. escriptiuii were I'lillv ■niitiiiiiiilly 11(1 vuriitv ly ill sdiiii' live liiu>. nincii. ;m(i riiiiiin'iitlv tilt' whole llr vill;i-c ^viis ill ii(( tidii soon • (•(itl>tiur- Wiis used ■ n I ■>;i::('s. 11 circular (■(1 (liiiiir. cr (liiiicii- tcd apar!- !|S \\C Cll- Icss novel <• Iteds nt ', or lam|i, !i"eii crept iiale ones, k ciiit [la.-t irt ot the :.' a dome .Milarity uisite to h in llio [irinci- descriho only that liy a ('it- ch apai't- Mi wrif- imiclx of tlio irt'pari'd i|)lt\ Hiid N)if lire, poopio CAPTAIN rAIlRY ri SECOND VOYAGE. li>5 '•Wo foniid," siiys Pni-i-v, "our new nccpiaiiitiinre ns dfsiro.is ot" pli'iisiiii: lis as nc wci-o rciidy to he ph-ascd," A faviirahlc impression was iiiado on the tlrst inti'rvitMV, which was not (liiiiinishcd diiriiiii a constant iiitt>rcoiii'so t\\ three (»r tour inoiitlis. 'I'liese poor creatui'es, wlu), wifli all tlieir iintortutiate iwe, have heen thrown by late into tlie least iiahitahle portions (tf the ijl(»be, amid cteiiiiil ice iiiid snow, possess many valuable aixi amiahh; (liiidilies. aniontf some others that are less so. and are (■(iinnioii to all savage or uneducated people. Those of the tribe here mi't with are desci-ibed in tlieir behavior as heiiiii in the iiiyhest de'^n't^ respectful, orderly, and "(ind humored. 'J'hev i^nvc the vovayers every reas- (III to believe that they j)ossesse(l, in no ordiiia»'y de- ::ree. the quality of honesty — !i (piality not usually timiid amouij; an uncivilized jxMiple ; "but !i (piality," I'aiiy observes, "the more desirable to us, as we had 1)11 shore, besides the linuse and observatory, all our lioats and other arti(des, which, had they Iieen disposed Id pilfer, it would have recpiired all our viijilance to jxiiaid. If we (h'op])ed a ylove or a handUendiief witli- (iiit knowing it, they would immediately direct (»ur att voyajz^M's that dishonesty is not a i)romineiit vice aiiioiig tliese poor people. .Iiidiling from the sample wlio visited ihe ships at Winter Island, they exhibit none of those traits of stu- pidity by which they liave generally been distinguished, liiit v,ould rather appear to be lively and cheerful than to show any signs of dullness, (^iiiet and ordHily, how- ever, ns they were disposed to be on their tirst visit, they betrayed n strong inclination to merriment : for I'arry observes, thai on Cumnmiider Lvon's oiderinj^ J. J '' ■( i Kt i V ! (^ l'^>0 AliCTlC VOYAGE; liis ruliilfV to t'xliihit upon the llccln's dccU, llioy (liinrt'd ^vith tlii^ sciiUKMi I'or iin hour, aiiil llicii rtMtiriM'il in liin|i j;lt'i' iiiul iiO(»il liimior to thcii' Imls. Aiiotln'r paily took yrrat (IfHiilil in rLshMiinji to tlio oriiini, and to any tliin;; in the sliapt' of nnisic, sini^int:;, or dancing, of all which they appoari'd to ho iiMnaiUahly fond. ^rh(> sanio party woro asked It) <;o through the ])ro- oess of huiidinii a snow-hiit for tlu* anuiscMnont and in- formation of the Kni'opeans. " l-'rom thci (jnicknoss," says Parry, " with which thcv C()ni|)l«'t(nl this, our sur- prise at tlu* sudden appearance of the villaye ceased, iis Ave now saw that two or thive hours would he more than sulticient to have cornph>t»'d the whoh^ estahlisli- nient just as we at first found it." 'Vhv followiiiij; diiy a luimher of natives came on hoard, accordiiiii to pi»»ni- ist>, to rehuild the hut in a more substantial maimer, and to put a plate of ice in the roof as a window, which they did with jireat (piickness as well as care, several of tlm women ciieerfullv assistini; in Uie lahor. The men sjMMued to take no small pride in sliowing in how expe- ditious and workmanliki' a manner tlu'y cordd perform this ; and the hut, with its v)uter passaue, was soon coni- l)li^teil. JJut they extiMid tlie us«i of this transparent material, applyinu that of iVo/.en honimocs to other ])urposes. A shMl^e was ivquired to carry u youth lo some distance, and none at hantl : " We touii'' however, that a num. wlioni we had (»l)sen'c(l for sonie tii at work jin'.oni: the lioinniocs of ice n]>oii tin- heacli, liad .-a eniployi'tl in cuttin;,' out of that ahundiiat niiiterial a ncnt and servici'al)le little slcdjze, hoUowetl like a howl or tray oat of a solid hlock, and smciothlv roumli-d iit the bottom. Tlu> thouir to which the doi:.s wore attachi-d was secured lo a i.noov(> cut round its upper edge; and the youMi: s(\d-catclier. sented in this siunile vfliicle. w;is drairtjed aloiii: • 1'.. ro O wuh greiit convenuMU'c ;nid conilort.' — 1*. -JOf). (^iptain Parry heiuix desirous of tryini:; liow far they iniiiht he disposed to j)arl with their chiklren, ])roposed to luiy !i fine lad. named I'oolooak, for the valuable con- sideration of a liandsome butcher's knife. His fathei-. appaiently understandiuii the meaninii, joyfully accepted tlie knife, and tin' boy set off in hi^h spirits, and at lirst iUssisled hi drawing a sledge ; but beginiihig, by some oy (Imiccd «mI ill hi;;li pally took any tiling all which 1 tlio i)ro- Mit aiul iii- juic'Unoss,"' s, our sur- ceased, as 1 ho. uioro I <»stal)lish- lowinii (liiy ii to |)r(»ni- lainuM', ami vvliuh they (•ml of tlio 'riu^ uit'ii liow j'xpc- ild jxM'lorm 1 soon coni- transpart'iit ■s to otht-r u youth to ad obsrn'cd ICO ni>oii tlic at ahuiidiint )wcil like a roundfd iit ttailuMl w;is tlic youiu' 1.1,'yod along \v fur thoy ])ropos«Hl uahle co!i- lis liitiuT. y accepted und at first H, by some cAi'TAiv I'ARUv ri sr:co\D VOVACi:. 127 aililiiioiial simis, moic ( iearly to e(»nipreheiid the tnui iiieaniiiij; of iiis situation, took the opportunit} to slink oil ainoiij: some homniocs of ice, so that, when iho party arrived on lioaid, '^Tooltmak was missing. 'ItKtiooak, liowever, was a constant visitor to I*arry, and considered himself fully j)rivileffed to find his way into the cahin. " lie sat with me," says I'ariy, "one day lor u oouph^ of hours, (piietly diawinj; liices and animals, an occu|)atiou to which he took a j^real fancy , and we often wen* reminded liy this circumstance of u similar propensity displayed hy his amiahle countryman, our lamented IricMid, John Sackhoust?."' Ih* ^oes on to s.iv : " We soon loiind that 'l\»o!ooak possessed ii cajiacity etpial to any lliin riud of time: 1 was, therefore, llu' fioni desirinii to receive from Toolo(tak an answer in the afVirmative, when 1 to-day plainly put the (juestioii to bim, wlu-tber be would 1:0 with nil' to KdhlooiKt Xitonn (Kuropi'an couiitiy) ? Never was a more decisivt^ ne^rative uiveii ibaii Toolooak -.'avc' to ibis ])ro- l)osal. He eairertv repeated the word, Na-o (No), half a d(»/- eii limi's. and then toM ine that ii" be went away bis fiitber would crv. This simple but irresistible appeal to pati-riial af- fi'cfion. bis dt>cisive manner of making' it, and the f(;('!iiii:s by which his reply was evidently dictated, were ju.>l whul could ) 1 I Hi' v! t 1,1 i'l ' fl fy\ /' ■ m i » i M Wi*. - 128 ARCTIC VOYAOKS. h:\\r l)i>rii wlslicd. No ninr(> cmilil Ix' iiccr-isiirv to coMvinct' those who wiliir-scd it tli.it thc^o |ii'o|iK' iiiav jiisiK l;iv (>(|iiiil «'l;iim. with oursclvos. t.o ihrso ;iti>li('il iii\ sell" ot" this. I ih'liTiiiiiitMl iicmt ii^'iiiii to rxcit<> ill Tooiooiik's iiiiiid .'iiiotlicr dis.'iu'ivi'Mlilc sni- Kjitioii l)v tidkiui; to liiiii on lliis snhject."" — I'. 17:5, 17 I. Oil ail early visit to \\\o liuts, which was mado hy I'arrv, ho I'ouiid mily womumi and cliildreii. tlio iiicii haviiii: iioiie on a scalinij cxcMrsioii ; mi»» of the totiiier. iiained Ih^liuK, ihe iiiothtM- ot" the lad ToolooaK. favored liim with 11 soui:. nhiidi. he says, i^ave prool's ot" her " haviiit:, a reinaiUaltly sott voice, an <>\celleiit ear, and n <:reat toiidness t'or siimiiii:. We had, on tlieir tiisf visit to tho ships, remarked this ti-ait in Miuiink's dispo- sition when slit» was hsteniiii:, t"or llie tirst time, to the sound ot" tht' oruan. ot' wliich she seemed never to liave tMiouuli, and ahnost every (hiy sh(> now l)e<;an to display some symptom ot" that superiority ot" understandiiii:; tor whi(di sho was so remarkahly distin2;nisht>d." MMiis Ksiptimanx t'emalc* was indeed a most i-xtraor- dinary (■reatiir(\ and oin^ thiit would have distinunisheii lierselt' in any soci«'ty, not meiudy hy her musical cra- viiiiis. tor her whole soul appears to have heeii music, hilt more hy lier unlaniilit intellectual jiowers. In her exhihition ot" the former (piulity, on various occasions. slu« is charijeahle only witii one of the two vice's wliich lloraco hriiiiis against the whole tribe of siii of tlu'iii, cspeoisilly lliiilink, would lia\e ijone into tits with rapture wlten we introduced iuTo our sonii soiiu> of their names miiiiiled with our own." It was enouij;h. wo arc told, l"or this intorostiiii; creature just to make tlu' motion of tiuMiiiii: the handlt^ of the orjian. wliich, couveyiny to her mind the itiea of music, was always sure to put her iminediutely into high spirits. Ifr Ill ('Olivine** y l;iy f(|tiii| )iii" iitilmi" ; illl'll IH'MT I'c'ililr fii'ii- 17 I. iiindc l)y the men i(> loniitT. U, r!ivui-('(l >l"s ol" her t our. Mild tlit'ir lirst il\'s (lis|)()- IIC. t(» tll(> IT to llMVC to flisplMV iiiidiiii: lor t oxtnior- liiimiislicd isical (Tfi- t'li music. 1. Ill lltT occiisioiis, ITS wliirli [crs in his •inj; to 1)0 l)nt Piinv '11 she had wtTo one ;i himd of no soii^s, d," Pan y ik, would iitro(hicod with our uterj'stiiii; lio haiidlo 10 idoa of utoly into CAI'TAIV I'AKKV S SKCOM) VoVAiJC. I2i) \ trait oftho superior characlor and proud loidin:: ">!' tins riMiiaiUalilo Inn. do iiiain»';-slod ilsoH' at an emlv |)i'- 11(1(1. wliadi. ainoni!, many othors. ajipoars to lie (nulo siiHicicnt to provo that such persons as lli^liuk. her son 'rodlooak. and .loliu Sackhoiise, re(piire hut i jerale (!, Uioc ol" ediicalioii to ^i\e them u i\[if place in civiji/.ed .'(-ciely. I'arry says : ••( III ilic -JIMli (.r l'cl.rii;n-\. l )kp.is;ii,,|i iit'ijic r.-(|niin;iii \ . ami r.|i(( i;illy el el I'tla> |ili)>l ill!. '1 1 i-eill .111(1 illU T. ■>! in;,' iimnMl^ lliciii, I may here relale. Seme lime lieliuc. Il-linik. \\\\n, lldlll tlli< sliperier licalness ;iii(l cleaillillc-s uilll uliicli >||,> jMrtiilllied her werk, \\;i-; liy llii-, tiinc in L,'|-c;it |-c.|nc--t ;is a MMiii-lies^. had pi(Pini«.ed lo coxcr liir me a lilile n.Hidel ol a. < lii'ie. and had in liict sent it to me hy the >er-emil i<\' mariiie<. 'li"'i-h I had not riuhlly iiiider>l(i()d li-.);ii ihe lallcr li-i.m which ol' the \V(aMea il came. r>elle\im; thai she had Tailed ill her |)romis(>. 1 now (;i\ed her w illi it. when >lie immedi- .•ilcl\ deleialcd herx'll' with c( )i i>i( lera I lie warmth and seri- el-iie», IpIII WiHloill makill- me comMI-elieild her llieailillLr. 1 lailinu that she was wasliiiL: lier word-. n|i(in me. she >,ii(| 'I'l niei-e till an hoar aherward. when the sei-ireaiit accideiit- .■i!i\ ci.mini: into the ( aiiin, she, with the iitmo>t c(anpo>ni'e. l>al with a deci>ioii of nianner peciili;ir Im liersclf, took Imid I't li:s man to eicM-e liis alleiili.ai. and then lodkiii- him >te,id- /:i>llv in tlie lace, accir-ed him <<( not ha\iii- raithliiHv execii- 'ill hia- conimi»ioii to me. The mistake was thus instaiitlv e\|il;iiiied, and I tlianked Hi-liiik tin' her caaoe ; hut ii i> ini- P'i>-ihle lor me to (h-M rilie the (|iiie|, \et proud sati>racti(ai ili-|il:iye(l in her comit.aiaiice at havini: llins cleared herself tiiiiii liie imi)iitati(>n of a hrcach ol' premi-M'." — P. 171), pio. Hut the superim- intelligence of this oxtram-dinarv AVoman was. perhaps, most ap|);,reiil in th(« readines:-; AMili whi(di she was made to coinprcdiend the mode of cimiiniinieiitiiii: a kiiowdedi:(' of the uoomaphic a! outline el' the sea-coast of the country, and of the islands that Avere near it. The lirst attempt of tliis kind was hy jilacim: several sheets (d" paper heUn-i" Hi-liiik. and draw"- iiiU roimhiy on a larui' scale an ontliiio of the laud ahoiit Kcpiilso Ihiy and liyon Inlet, and (•(nitinnin^ it ikumIi- «'rly lo the present winter stalimi ol" the ships. The scale heiiii: lariic it was necessary, when she came to ihc eiid (d' one piece of p.aper, to tjick on iniotlier, till ;;t !H, * " 'ill i *>*: , mo ARCTIC VOYAGES. Iciiutli ^hi' lia!iiii(l at liic oilier end ot" llic tiililf. 'Insd cliiiits, (tiic iiiiide l»v lli}:liuk I'or ( '(im- iiijiiidcr Lyon, uru i:i\fii (in tlir voliiiiic) on a rciliiccd scale ; and very extraordinary tln'V aic. containinL'. tlioniili with nincl'. eiror, a general correct view ol' tlic const, and ol" its coiiinnniication with thu western coa>l ottlie I'olar Sea. I'arry says : '■ I'eliit: extrenielv de.-iioiis of (iI)taiiiinL' more cei'taiii inliir- matioii (III this pai't n\' tlic >iil)je(t. it occuired to nie to alteiii[»l the lliiiiL.' witii lliudiiik OH a sniallei- >cale, Mich as iiiiLdit eii:i- lile lifi' to keep ill \ie\\, at the ^iiiiie time, e\t'iv part ot till' coa>t to lie delineated. 'I'liis attempt was also much iiivored li\ oiir lia\iiii: lalelv oltlaiiied the llscjiiiniaiix wni'ds tlir tin' iiiiir cardinal poiiiis of the iioi i/.on. which were, theiTliiii'. ])rev;ou.>lv laid down liy line-, on the chart, llavin^r, in addi- tion to lhi>, delineated the n.-uiil pni-iimi of the coast, and ina(h' ]|i:_dink ' liox tiie coin|ias>' repeatedly, mi as to render her ipiite familiar witii the exact relative po^itilm of the land> We had laid down, we doired her to complete the re>t, and to do it iiiihhir (>mall), w hen, w ith a coinilenance of the niost ^'ia\e attention and |ie( uliar intellii.'ence, she (h'ew the coa-t ot the continent lie\ oiid her own country, as 1\ ini: nearly iioiili I'roni Winter l>laiid. 'J'he mo>t ini[iortaiit ]iart still remained. and it would ha\e amused an nncoiiceriied |ooker-on to haxe oli>erved the an\iet\ and >uspeii,-e depicted on the couiile- liances of (/rr part of the uroiip till tli;> was acconipli>lied, lor i[e\er were the tiacini:- ol a pencil watihed with more eai'er solicitude. ( )iir sur|irise and .-ali.-factiou mav theretiire. in some deu'ree. he imauiiied when, without takini: it fioni the paper, lli^link lir. \V., sn as to cenie within three or foin* days' joii rue v ol l{epul>e l'>av. 'I' he coun- try thus situated upon the chores of the \\ C.-.tern or I'olar S< a is called J/,/,-nt//i'i% and is inhiiliited li\' numerous |]s(|iiiniaux ; and iialf way lielwceii tliat coast and lii"[iulso i5av lli;dink dirw a lake of coii-ideralile .-i/e, havini.' smaU streams rii::- uiiiL: from it to llie mm on each >'n\v. To 'his lake lier coiiii- tryinen are annually in the liahi. of resortiiiir duriuir the >iini- iiier, and catch there hirire iish of tlie salmon kind, w hile en the iianks ai'e tiiiind .li'undaiice of ri^iinh'cr. To the westwaiti of Akkoolee. as tiir as they can see from the hills, w liicli .-he de-( rihed as hi^di ones, nothim,' can he di>tini:ni>lied hut one w ide-extended sea. iieiiiLT de>iinus of seeiim \s hetlier IliLd'- Ilk would interfere willi \\ aj-'er Kiver^ us we know it lu e\i-l, liiid ('(tiii- i'V cud ol' I'or ( "oiM- ii rcfliiccd [•oiitiiiiiiii;:. cw oi" till' stern coa.->l •riaiii iiif'nr- ■ to ;itt<'iii|)l iniLdit cn.i- ]);ii't III' llii' Ucll iilVOITll ii'ds tiif till' ■, llirri'lniv, iui:, ill iidili- CllJISt, Mild IS ti) ri'iidcr ul' llic liiiuU he rot, iiiid • of lllf Uio-I \v llir collet iii'iirly iiorili i-('iii;iiiii'd. r-oii to h;iM: die coiilltf- ■(iiii|ili.-lii'd, \\ idi inori' ■ llicrcrnic, iiLf it I'miii hurt roiiuil ;is to cniiii' 'Jilt' c'oiiii- 1- I'dhir Si'.i s(|iiiiii;iii.\ ; tav lli:diii!v trciiiis nii:- ■ her cnllli- iir till" >iiiii- I, \\liilo on ' westward wITk ll >\\r H'd llllt one (Mlifi- Uii:!'" V it lu rNi-l, CAPTI.W TAURV's SKCOM) V()VA(;K. l.'H i ■(|llcstrd. her to colli illUi' die coiHt-lilic to tlic xilldiw ai il oi' Akkooli'c, wlirli >lir iliiliic'dialcly dro|i[ird llir |iiU(i|, and .-aid bhr kin'W no muro alioiit il." — 1'. i:»r, 1!);;. W'ril inii;lit I'liny cniisidcr tliis new inrnniiiition, tints li!i('\|)('ctt'i||y (ipciioil Id liiin. as a sal isliictory |»io-<|){'ct, (if liis soon rounding the iioitlirastorii point of Aiiiri'ica, wlfuli, ill point (d' I'act. lie s(il)st'(|iifntly di-covciTd to he. the merit due ol' the disrov- ('i'\ ol' the extreme iiorthein lioimdiiiy ol Amei'iea. ^ir. wlfu 11 is the same tliiiiir. the iioitheastern extremity of that continent, whiidi Captain I'arry is told, in his iii- sli'iictioiis. to he the ohject next to the fiiidiii^ a passage til nil the Atlantic to the l*ac;lie. It is true t hai he miuht, i>i his progress aloiiy the coast on whi(di he was ahoiit to proceed, liave made the discovery, hut the coiilidence he placed in the indication he had acijuired from the |-',s(pii- iiiaiix lady was snllicient to induce a more than common alleiition to the spot where it received I'ull coiilirmatioii. Nor were the powers of mind in this superior woman ci 111 fined to the love of music, or draw inu. or needle -work ; evel'V thilii; she nh.>erved the |)eople of the ships to he employed U|)oii canuin her attention. ( )iie day, accom- paiiiefl hy lier Imshaiid and son, they paid a visit to the shi|)s, and the season for departure approaching, hciiii;' desirous, says I'arry, of entertainiii^ them widl, alter providin^i aliinidance to eat, we showed them every lliin;^ aliout the slii[) that w f thoii::lit likely to amuse them : "Of all the wonders tliev had ever witncs-ed on hoard, llicic was notliiii;.^ that seenicd io impress tliciii so stroiiLdv witli a M-iise of oiir superiority as the foiLre, and the work wlrrli the armorer pei-tiirimil with it. 'I'Ih' wcldiiiLr ot' iwo jiii'crs of iron es|iecially excited their admiration, and I mvcr .-:i\v Uiulink expre>s so imich a-toni-hmeiit at any ihiiiLr lie. i'lrc l'.\en in this her snpia'ior l'oo'I scn-e was oli-ei'\;ili|e, till" it was evident that the ulilit\' of what she >aw uoIiilt on was what forced itselt' upon her inind ; and she wa1iiy or Jn- !cre-l ill the opcialioll. except 1)\ de-iraiu' to iiave some .-pear l"'ad> t;i.-hi| worn out witli liitiuiic iiiid iiiixirty. licr liii>l»;iii(i took }\ (lose of physic loi- the first time in his life, iiml not Avitlioiit iiiciit (JrciMl ; •* hcfoi'c he put the cii|) to his lips with one lisind. lie held on hy his wife with the otiicr. jnid she by him with hoth hers, iis thoiii.di llicy expcctcij ill! explosion. Hii:liiik li;id one s:de of her hair loose iiml jiow loosened the o'hei" iilso. I'inicyiiii: ( )kotook to he Averse: for even in this scipicstcrcd corner ot' the iilolic dishevidcd locks liespcnk mouniiii!.:."' Hers. Ii()we\('r. I'lirry s:iys. was not the mere senihlance ot' uricf. for siic was really niiich distressed throiiidieiit the e amialile traits of cliar- Jictcr in one whom the W(»rld at larm' would set down. Iieiiii'^ an Ksipiimanx. as little, if it all. removed from the oi'dinaiy race ofsa\ai:('s; a'ld it rs only trom such a man }is l*ai'r\ and his a^^ociates lliat her virtues, and her im- iiccoi lilt ill lie st re ! I t:th and clearness of iinderstandin'i. could liave heeii hroimht out and duly appreciated. Would that, by makiii'i pnlilicly known to the woiid this (U-- s|)ised and persecuted race (for nothiiiij: short of pcr- secnlioii coiiid have driven them to take up tlieii' abode in these extreme parts of the iilobe. amid ice and ^iiow. >vhere worse than ('immerian dtu'kness dwells for hall the year) — would that they iiiii:ht be looked upon more not lilind to hei- ladings, tlie rhiel" of w hieh appears ]n he vanity (to \vhi(di he lias himself not a lillle conli'ih- lited). sidlishiM'ss, iiiid in^'ratitiide. •• I am eonipidled to ;iikiio\vledi';e.'" lie says, "that in proportion as the sn- pevior uiider.>taiidini: ol'tiiis e\i ra ordinary \s oin iii hecana^ more and moi'e de\eloped. her head {\'i>y what female liciiil is inditi'ereiit 1(» praiso ?) lieL;aii to he turned with ihc ::eneial iitteiition and niiiiiheriess presents ^||.• re- ceived." Slie I'td'llsed. it seems, on the e\c ol" partiiii:. ( 'oniniaiider Lyon's reipiest to lier to make for him n lew little models of their (dothiiiL: : " whitdi." I'arry oh- serves. " shows in a stroiii: li^ht that deep-rooted se lish- nexs tlijit, ill liiimherless instances, detiacted from tlio aniiahiiity of her disposition." It is not (piite clear, from wliat occurred on the ila\' that ( )kotook and llii;liuk came on hoard to pay their la-- 1 visit, that I'arry did not unintentionally olteiid the pride of the latter. I le says :" As t lie.se ^ood j'olks foimd ihein- sehes perlectly at home in my cahin. I was ii>ually in the hahit of conlinuini: my occupations when they wer(f there without feint: distmhed hy them. I'eini: tiow eii- i;a::ed in ^vritilu, my attention was unexpectedly direct- ed toward them hy l!i'.:liuk's suddenly startin;: I'rom her seat, iiioviiii: (piickly toward the door, and, without sav- in:: a W(jrd eitliev to me or any ot" the ollicers present, liasieiiiii<: directly on deck. ()kotook. indeed, as lie tol- lowed her out id" the cahin, turned round and said ' (xood- hy ;" and. without i:ivin'_: us time .o return the compli- ineiit. tliey hoth hurried out of the ship, leaviiii: us in some astoiiishmeiil at this siii<:ular leave-taking." It is not iiniiatiiral to suppose tliat. afler so lon^^ and friendly an intercourse, tiiey should, on this particular visit, feel tliemseKcs somewlmt iie::lected; it could hardly he ex- pected tliat they should not feed, on siadi an occasion, an ajipareiit indill'erence so contrary to the uiiilorm atten- tion and kindness tiiey liad receiveih Hut l*arry foiiiid i! change liad taken jilace in lli::rutk's comluct, and e\- ))laiiis the causes which yave rise to it. •• I am, however, conii>elled 1o ackiiowled'jfc that the siipe- rioi' dercncv" and even modrst\ ot her heliavioi- li:id cum- biiiej, with her intellectual (jnalities, to rai>e her in our e.-li- 31 I . V) i ! i 11 : I ' ' I'rv iU^ i i:u ARCTIC VOVA<;i:<:. Ilfltioil I'll' ;i1iipVi> licr rnin|i:nils. \\ li.il I cniilil Mill liiit ic'iri' ill. lliiil till- liiL;liill\ ;ilii;ic'. Ill ;i|l llic I ;>(|l|ilii:il|\ NSdlllcil. lli;il killil lv ill il tilll.'llr lirvcr lulls In (•(Hii- )ii;iiiil ill our -.I'V. 'i'liiis ri'L.iiilrd. ^-Iic IkmI ;iI\\;i\s Imtu Iitc- Iv iiiliiiitlrd iiilci llii- >lii|i-. ;lif i|ii;irtrr-m.i>ti'is :il llic :;;iil i.'\\ ,■lV llt■\l•|■ lliiiiUiliu 111 II ^ll-ill^ tilt i;i 111 r til llir ' \\ i>i' WnK^ail,' IH llicv ("illi'd lirr. \\ iii'iii'v cr ;iiiv cxiil.iiiHlinii \\;is iic(('>>;ny lictw fi'ii llir r>i|niiii;ni\ iiiid lis. liiLiliiilx w.is sent tin-. i|iilii> ;is ;iii iiiti'rprflcr ; iiiriwtii;iliiiii w.is cliirlly nlitiiiiicd tliiniiJi lici". iiiid >\\<' tliiis rniiiid liriM'it' risiiii,' iiitn ;i d»':.'rt'(' lA fou-i'- (|ili'iicc III \\lii(li. Iiiil tiir lis. >|ic ciiuld iirvif li:i\c iiltiiiiHil. It iii.iv iml, tlirii'tdi'f. lie \\ lUidt'rcd ill if slir litTiiinc u'iddv w illi iicr cMillMlitiii. ;i>>iimiii^' iiirs w liicli, iIuhil-Ii iiiHiiilcIv d'- \( r>iii(d ill llirir ii|icr.itiHii, ;ni mdiii^' to i!lii\ ci'Milly iillciid :i tmi Mlildcii il((r»iii|i (ifj^imd |i>i- lUlu' ill t'MTV ( Ilild 111' AiLllll tVdlll till' r.(|li;iliir to liic I'nlr--. 'rill' riiii>i'i|iii'iirr \\;is. Ili-liuk \\ .is miihi >|iiiili'd; ciHL^idrii d lu'i" iiiliiii->iiiii iiilii till- ships, iiiid iimst nt' llu' raliiiis, im Inii- i:iM' as ail iiidiil::rnrr. imt a riulit ; n'asrd tn rrliini lln' >li;,li;- rst ac'UiiiiwiciL'iiiriit liir imy kiiidiir>s nr |)i'r.>i'iits ; iiriMum listless and iii;i1triiti\i' in iiiira\ rliiii: llir inraiiiiiu' nlniir ijiii- lidns. and can-li'ss whrllirr lirr answrrs riiii\r\i'd tin' inlin- iiiatioii \vi' di'>iri'il. In >inii't. Ili;:liuk in r'riniiary and Mi- i;liuk in April wi-ri' ciiiitr>M'illy vrry dilli'ii-nt |)cisiiiis ; and it. was at last ainn>ini,' In rrcnllrrt, tliiiiii:li mil vrry ra>\ tn prr- Miaili' line's M'lt". liiat tin- wuinan who nnw sat drnnircK in a «liair. Ml runlidi'iilU rxpci'tiiiLr llir nnliri' iil'tlinsi' arniiiid lirr. and sill' will) had at lli>t. with raLirr and wild drliuht. av-.i>t- I'd in cnttin;,' snnw lor lln- luiildiiiu' of a lint, and with tlio liopo of' ohtaininL: a siin^lr noodli', wrio aitiuilly one and tlu^ sanii- indlvidnal."— r. -Jilt. -J-JO. Iliuliiik was uiKpu'stiuiialily iiltrfcd and sjioilcd. and to Captain I'aiTV and liis associatos was owiin; llif iiirta- iiiorpliosis : liiit it was a iiatiii'al ('(tiiscipiciicc. and ciitild not 1)1' otlu'fwisi' ; nor docs tlu> (diaiiu.' in lici- ('(Midiirt detract in any dcLircc t'loiii tliiit (|ni('t, ofdiMJy. and (dicci-- liil heliasior wliii'li prevailed almost niiivcrsally aiiioiii^ tJie trihe to wliicli she heloiiiicd. ( )l'llie ])eculiar liahils. the dis|)ositioii. the i;«Mi(>ral char- iU'tcr. the resources and einployineiits. and the state ot" .<;ociety iuiioiii: lliese poor creatures, doonied to consiiiiKi llieir lives in this coiintry. tlie most dreary and disniai, IMTJiiips. in tlie whole world. Tarry has j^iveii a tull ac- count in hi.'^ coni'linling chaph'r. Here, huwevor, the ii'il uti.i |•^ ink :ilii;ii'. w mild 111- •i 111 cnlil- lircll llti'- j^;inj;\\ iiy ii|;^;ili.' ;n lic(f»;iiy liii'. i|iiilt> I tlinniJi III' COIIsi'. iill;iiui'il. iiif L;iil(lv iiiilcly il- IICO, |M1- ;^uii(l liii- lli.- r.il.'^. nli-^ulrii il l<. Mil li'll- ihr >li:,li:- ; lirciiiiii' dill' (|I1C:.- llll' illtill-- V 1111(1 Mi- lls ; iiiiii it, s\- til |irl'- ircU ill 11 iiiiiul licr, lit. ;i^>;^t- willi the (' Mini till' (I. illli! to W liirta- 11(1 ('(iiilil foiiiliict ill clicrr- V iUMoiig fill c'laf- StiltC lit" •OIISlllllO I disniiil, I tiill ac- 'ver, the (MTAiv rAuiiv'rf sixoM) \()V.\(;i:. 1,*{5 iMciifrriuN'^ only will Itc iiiciilioiinl. As it, i^ciicrjil (iiio, It iiiav III' si a I I'll I lial. iliiiliiu I lit' iiioiillis nf Manli, ,\|»iil, mill ,N|a_\, wlii'ii llii'V tli'priiil niii->lly mi lli.' caiitiiii' of till' M'al anil tin- wiilnis. wliic li is iillfiiilcd with tli«> ;:iTat- csl (lillinilly and w alchriilncss on tlif ice, ihc wlmlo tnlii' may lie said In lir literally in a sti»ic n\' slar\ali(>ii. Mail llicy not. iiidrrd, on many occasiuiis, I n Mipiilird rrnin till' ships, iiumlicrs uj' tlicm miisi midoiihtrdlv liavi' pciishi'd nl" limi::<'r. Ml llif lncad diisl was »•(»!- Ii'clfd and pifsci'vcd lor tlioir use; yet, in thr li('ii.dit of tlit'ir dislfcss. they iippcaird iicnci' to Itc deprived of that liajipy and cheerriil tempei- of mind, and thai <:ood hii- iiiiir whieli ihey iialiifally possessed, aiid preserved, eveu wlieii severely pinched hy liiiic:er and cold, and wholly deprived, loi' days louelher. ol' jood, and liL;ht, and I'liel, prnatioiis to which they were constantly lirihle. liiil ixi calamity of this kind, iVeipienlly as it occurs, lias lim::lit, tlicm to he |)rovideiit. 'Ihey live hiit tVom day l(» diiN' : vvilli them it is always a i'east or a lamine ; ihey will eat. Ml any period of the day when \icliials are to he had, fiiiiii live to eii^lil pounds of animid tood. l'"rom .May to ( »(lolier. wlieii the minatory animals have arrived from till- southward— llie miisk-o\, the reindeer, the hares, I lie N\vaii<, and vr ions other lit wis and (piadriipeds ihey ;!fe alile to procure a ^ooil supply of fitud ; and those fcYV who add friiualily lo their industry, <'oiitrive to pound till' llesh with the fat of the animal, and make a little of what they call jk niiii'nuni, for preservation a compoiinil well known lo (tnr Arctic voyaiiers. In the earl\' part lit' April, some of the Irilic that freipieiited the XViiiter Isla'id he^ati to miiirate from the seashore to the west- Avaid ill (piesf of food ; and the (diaii^ie of scene in their oiice happy village, and more especially in their clean and comfortahle snow huts while new, is thus descrilied : ■• ( III L'liliu: out lo the vIlliiL'c, we Iniiiiil one li;ilt ol tlie pco- ]i|" liiid i|iiined llicir late liaiiitatimis, takiiiL' willi tliem ev- ( TV article of their piit|ici'tv. and had iioiie over the ice, wo l;!ii'\v nut where, in ipic-l of niore ahiiiidaiit food. 'I'hcj wii'trlieil appearance which the interior of the lints now pre- ~i'ii1ed hatlles all description. In each i\{ the laru'er ones Miiiic (if ilic ;i|)ariiiiciit> were either w holly or in jtart de-ert- cd. the very .--uow wiiich cunipo.sed tlie hods and tirephicea .1 ■'! I I :li , I « » M ( :'* 1 / • .-- i^ ino ARCTIC VOYA(; ?:.■=«. liiiviiii: l)f titi- laiii|il(la('U, MdihI, ami ntlifi' lillli, wen* unt left |it riccl, iiiiL'i' liolfs liaviiiL' Immmi iiiadf in the biili-s ami nmls ilii" till' cmiviMiiciicr lit liauiliiiu' "nt tin- ^.mmhIs and cliatttj-. Tilt' siulit fit' a (Ifscilfil lialiitaliini is at all tiiin's calriilalrtl lo rxiitc ill tlir iiiiml a snisatinii ol (lirariiirss ami »lt'sriMi it tilled with tliccrtid iiilialiitaiits ; liiit the Ifcliii;.' is even lit'i;,'lilrm'd latlirr than (iiiiiiiiisli(Ml wlicii a small |i)ii'tiiiii dl iIicm' iiilialiitauls I'l'inuin hrliiiid tu ciidiiri' llif wiftclirdmv-s wliicli siicli a scfiir ex- liil)its. 'I'liis was now tin- ca^i' at tin- village, wlicit', iIhmiliIi tlic iTiiiaiiiiiii.' tenants tit cai'li lint had cninliiiicd to oci njiy (iiir lit' till- apartinriils, a iircat |iait nl' tin- lird-jilacis wrn* still liari', and tin- wind and diltl lilnwinu' in thrnnLih tlii' hull's which thry had imt yrt laUi'ii llir tiimMi' to stup n|(. Till' iild man 11 iUUi'iira and his w iti- nccniiii'd a lint 1> . tinnn- hi'lvrs, w ilhiiiil an\ laiii|> iir a sinL'Ii' uniiri' nt iiU'at lirlniiL'iiii; to tla'iii ; wirilr tlnri' small skin>, mi wliirh tin- tin'mrr was lyiiii:, wiTc all that tliry |iii»('ssrd in ihr way ut' lilanki'ts. I jinii till' wlidlr, I nr\rr liclirld a liiiiri' misfl'alilr ^ prclailc, and it st'i'iiird a I'liarity \n hupi' that a viulriit and riiii.--tant, <'iiiit.di with wliiili till' old man was atHIrtrd wimld spmlily coiiihinr with his a^'i' and inliiiuitirs tu irlrasi- him rnnii his jtii'sciit siiU'i'rinirs. Yrt in tlir midst of all this hr was I'vrii cliriM't'iil, iKir was thi'i'i- a t;liH>mv ciinntriiam.'i' to lie smi at Ihr village."— 1*. -JOi, '^U:}." TlifM-0 is soiMctliiiiji very oxtraordinaiy, as it would appear, in tlu) j)liysi(iil ('(iiistitiitioii otthese jjt'ople. At tliis inomeiit, wlicii in vvaiit ot" every kiiid of siiljsisteuce, and kept alivi' by tlu! distrihntion of liread-tliist. on a liiiit t'loni till! conunaiider that in; wished the females to let liinMvitnoss some of their jiames, the proposal was scarcely mado hefoi'e I'very female that was h-ft in tho villai^e. not exceptiiiij; even the oldest of them, joined in the perfoi-mance of siliiiinu and in never-ceasiiiii ni'-rri- nieiit and lain,diter. " Neithei- the want of foo(i and fu- el, nor the inicertain |)r()spect of ohtainiiii; any tliat iiii.dit. were sufficient to deprive tliese ])oor creatures of that clieerfulness tind jrood Imnior which it scmmiis at all times their j)(>cnliar happiness to enjoy." 'I'lieir hilarity was not disturbed tliis niulit. for |)ositi\e intellii:ence arrived irom the ice that two walruses had been taken. " If,'' says Pariy, " the women were only cheerful Ijofore, they were now ubselut*;Iy frantic.'' •t'l lu'liiutj, iici'ly |Mr- VI' iiul Itft > iinii I'iMil's I cllJlltfls. C.-lll'lilKll'il li'siiliitiuii, \i clircit'iil tlhiT tliiiii Ills n-iiiiiiu , SCt'llf I'X- rv, tlii)iij.'U to UC(I1|I\' llCfS S\<|r foriu'li the (I stop lljl. it 1> ,• tllt'Ml- llf|Olll.'illL,' if.'iirr was lilimki'ts. ^ Itfi'tacic, (I collslJIIlt, I s| let '(lily II iVniM Ins • was even !)(> scf'ii at it wouM iiple. At isistt'iii'c, 1st, on ii t'l'iiialt's )osill WilS ft ill tlio joined ill lii iii'Tri- 1 and t'li- iiit iiiiilit, s ot" tllilt all tinu's rity was aiiivinl " IIV liolore, CAI'TAIN I'AIlUv'd SJiCU.VU V()VA(;i:. I.*i7 Till" otid of May liavinii ai'iivcd. and tlir Ms(|niiManX liriii^ ready to dep.irt to the nttit li\\ ai d. tin' connnaniler liiaile tiieni w liat they considered a llHist \alind)le pres- ent, wliieli prodined in liie women sneli innnoderate fits nl' Ian jliter as to anionnt almost to hysterics, w Inch w ero MIfceeded Ity a llood of tears. The men seemed tliank- I'ld. tlioiiiih less noisy in their ii(knowled:;nM'nts. •• ( »n 1;il\iiiii their departnre," says j'arry, "these ^ood-lin- liiori'd and e\ er-cheerlid people ^|-eete(l lis with threo cheers in tin* true Kahloona (ilniilish) style." Little (leservinlied when a viMV lieavvand extensive tloe took the sliip on her hroa(l>iile. and, lii'iu;,' backed bv another larire body of ice. gradually lil'led her .-lern as if by the action (»fa wedLre. The weiirht, every inoment increasini:, oblii:<'d us to veer on the liaw>ers. w hn.-o fricliuju wud no threat as nearly to cul ihruui^di the blu-heud.s, U 2 \\\ n! ) iti I "'"I lit' tlii|) to (li'i\(', and tin' mily uay liy w.ii'l. she (Kid i xicld t(t till' (•iiMiiiiniis wc'iLilit wliicli (iiiproscd lirr was Itv lea II ill LT (ivrr tlir land -ice, wliilc licr .-tciii. at the >aiiii' lime, w.ts ciitiif'lv lilted nunc than live I'eet (inl ol' tlie watir. 'I'lie Ikwi'I' deck lieains iimw ci piii|>lained very iiiMcli, and tl .• wlmle t'raine ol'tlie sii:|) underwent a trial wliicli wmdd lia\e jiroM'd fatal tn aiiv less streiiLMlieiied vessel. At tliis inrce. Ill this state 1 made kiiuwii our sitiiatinii l>y telei:ra|>li, as f elearlv s;ivv that, in the event iif ainither tine liackini: the one \viii( h lifted us, the .-hiii inn.-t inev iialilv turn over, or part in 7iii([-lii|i>. '1 lie ]>r('ssiire which had heeii mi daiiLrerons at leiiL'th proved oiir I'l ieiid. for hv its increa-iiiLf weight the lloe on which we were Ikm-iic liiir>t upward, iiiiahle to resi>t its force. The ship ri;dited, and. a .-mall slack opeiiiiiL' in the water, di ov (• several miles to the southward he fore she con Id lie a.'aiii si^ciired to i:('t the rndder liniiL' ; (•ircnmslances niiicli to lie rcLMctted at the moment, as oiir |ieople had lieeii einploved with Itnl little intermission for three davs and iii_'l:l-. atleiidini; to the .-al'etv of the slii[» in this daiiL'erons tideway." — r. ■::>:). Tile l-'iirv liad almost as iinrfow an (\sea])(' as tlie llecla. The iie\t day the I'' iiry tof an hour nr two was cDiitiiiiially L;ra/,eil. and sometimes heeled over, hv a de- cree of pre-siire wliicli. under other (.•ilX'iliii.stalices, ^\es. peiliap- many tons in weii;lit. to the liei-ht ot' lit'tv or ."-ixtv teet. Iroiii whence tliev aL'iiii rolled down on the inner or land side, and were ipiicklv -in'ceeded liv a fre-li snpplv. While we were ohlii^ed to lie (piiel spectators of this i^raiid hut teiTilic sii;ht, beiiiir williiu live or .si.\ huudrt.'tl yards of 'y%'^ li ' l'CI|ll!^l1i' • |)ic~-iiri' .-ti'c.iMi ' :i t llic >aiJiM I MS tin I lull liv \\ .li'!, rc>scil lii'i- t tin- saiiH' llir wain-. Ii. aii.l tL- ■ nulil lia\i' i> iDMiiiiiit I I>i-.ik<- ii|) li'cal 1(1 ire. rrapli, as f 111,' tlir iilir , or pai't ill llt.'CI'()!IS Ml, 'lit thftliH- II resist its liiii; ill the ' >llC COIlIll •iiiiistaiicfs • liad hfcii (lays and (laiiL'f'niiH (' as tli<^ two was liy ii I|01C, lis reason we iiad ict. at tlio laiid-i(t> \IIil: it ii|t iimiH'ii-'^ 111' I'lj'tv or llir iiiiiiT 1 sii|)|ily. lis L'raiid \ ards (jf CAl'TAIX TAIIRV rf SECOXD VOYA(.n. 131) iir' |in'ut. tlic danirrr to oju'm'Ivi's was twniiilil ; llist. Ir-t tlio tl.H' ^liiiiild iinw suiii:: ill. and .-ri'vi- iis murli ia tin- .>a'iii) iiiMiiiH'r; and. si'ciiiidly. Ii>t its |iri-s>iiri; slimild drtarli l!io ] iMil-ii'i' to \\ liicli wi' wi'i'i' srciii'i'd, and thus M't us adritt to l!lf nirrcv ut'tln' tidrs. Ila|i[iil\. Imwrx rr. Ilritiirr nl t!|i'-i) i.-carird, tin- tine iTiiiainiiiL,' st.itinnarv liir tlii' rest nt' t!io 1 'le. and sftliiiLT oll'uitli the ebb which math- soon alter." — r. •j up ;iliiiM' hiu'li-w ater iiiaik'. we lanibled np llie bank.- ot the ^iieaiii. which are juw next the water, but rise alinii>t iiii- iiii'ilialelv to the iiei_'ht nt' abniit Iwii hundred feet. A- Wil pi'iii'eiileil we i:radiiall\ lieaiil the iiiii.-.e of a tall nf water; and bciii'.,' prc-eiilly nbrii:ei[ tn >trikc niore inland. a» the hank became ni'ire |ireiipiliius, >;iiiiii nbiaineil a tVe-h sievv III the stream, rimniic: mi ;i inmli iii:.'iier le\el than belnre, Mid ila.-hinur wiili L'reat impetii'i.Mty down two ^inall cata- rnt.-". ,lii>i below thi.>. hnwever, where the ii\er turns al- lii'i.-T at a riuilit aii_le, we perceived a iiiifcli LUeater >[iiav, a.T. well iLS a limilcr sound ; and iui\ lii^' walked a short di:*- ^ \ % i I ill i "(I! |: .'); ( !' Ii. (I 4- I i i m IV V ■ I I • / •* U ' 110 ARCTIC vovA(;i;s. 1;il)cc down liir 1 );i lik , -llildi'iiK ("iiiu' U|iiiu llir [il'iiiri |i;il l.ili. (tt \\llii>c iiiaL;liirui'lli'i' I .1111 III a ln.-s In ^; i \ ( llll\ ;ii li'i |ii;ii,> (l('.^ci"i|iticin. Vl till' Iliad nl'llic fail, or wlirii- it coiiiiiiciir, ~ il> prilirijial di'xrut, till- iImt is cnliliarli'il tn aliiiiil mn' liiiiidrrd and lill\ Iri't ill lircadtii. tlir tlianiii'l liriii^ iiul- luwi'd mil tlin)iiL:li a snlid I'lifU nt i;iir;-->. VIliT talliM_' aliMiit tit I mi li'i't. at an air^lf ol' :!() w idi a \ iTlual linr. tli.' widlli lit till- ^Irraiii is still uaiTiiwi'd tu alunit tiirty vanU. and tlii'ii. a> it niii>li'i'iim its wlmli' tiin r |)i'i'\ inns in its tiiip di'sc-'iit, i.> |i.''''!i|>itali'd in mii' \;isl cnnlinnniis >lii'i't nt' walir aliiiiisl |iri|)rndicnlaily tnr ninety tn-t inmr. Sn m-arlv. in- di'i'd, i> llic inck |)i'i|)iMidiciilai', that wi- wrir riiaMrd tn In dnwn a sniindiii.' Irad and liiu' liir tlir |iiir|in.-r nt nii'a>nrin_' it> actual li('i:jlit. wliili' a man drxi'iidnl li'nin rra_' tn i r.i.; witli a M'cniid linr atlarlii'd to Inin. tn .-I'r wIhmi the l"Mii liiiiclird till' walrr lirjnw. Tin' da-liiiiLr n|' tlir wali'i' trni;, snrji a lii'iL;lit jirndnrrd till' ii~iial arinni|ianiiiii'nt nt a rimi I nt' >]n"a\', lirnad rnliiinn^ nt whicli wn'r rnn^iaiilK' tnrn'd ii[i. liki' till' MUii'>sivt' in^lii's nt' siimki' timn a \a-t lurnai'n, and on this, nrai' tin' tn|i. a \i\id iris nr rainlmw was (»(ra-ini|- allv I'nnni'd liv tlir hriulit ra\>nt'a!i iiinlniiilrd sun. ' 'I'hr rnaiiiiu' III till" nmnntaiii-cataiait.' \\liirli cniistitiilrs a [ii'in- cipal Iralnir nt tlir >iilprniir in Mrnri\' nt thi> niauiiillrriit natiii'r, was linr ahnn.-i dralrnin,' ; and as \\ r wrrr alilr in apprnarli thr lirad nt' tlir tall cM-ii sn clnM- as a >iiiL;lr \ rii. till' vr|-\ rnck ^rrninl tn -nll'rr a <'nni'n~--inn lllldrr nilf tn :. Thr liasin that rriri\rs thr watrr at thr j'nnt nt' thr t.dl i- nraiiv III' a rircnlai' Inrni, and almiit tnnr Imndi'rd safds m dianirtrr, liriiiu' rathri' widri- than thr ri\rr ininird ialr|\ hrlnw it. 'i'hr la H is alimit tlirrr i|naitrrs nt' a iiiilr aini\' (Mir land iiiL'-plarr, nr 1 \\ n inilrs and a i|uailrr Irmii thr iii leaner nl thr ri\ri-. Altrr rrniainuiL: nraiiv an hniir. li,\ri| us it wrrr. In ihr >|inl li\ tin' nnvrllv ami in:: jnilirrnrr nt llh sii'iir lirliiir lis, wr cnmiiiiird niir walk n|i\\ard alnii_^ \\i< hanks, and. altrr passin:: thr two sin illrr ralaracts. tiniiid ;h' rivrr aijain inrrra^rd mi width tn alin\r iwn hiindrrd \aiil- wiiidiiii,' in thr iiin>t iniiiantic iiiannrr iinauiiiaiilr aiiinn_' liii liill>. and |Ui'--rr\ in:: a siimnlli and iinriillird snit'arr tnr a d'- taiirr nt' ihl'rr nr tiiur inilrs that wr tl'arrd it tn ihr >niitli\\ ol alin\r IJir lldl. What addrd rMrniirU In thr hrailtS' nt'lh- ]ru'tiirrs(|iir ri'> rr. whiiii ( 'nniniandri' L\ nil and inv.-rir iianird at'lrr niir inntnal t'liriid, Mr. Iiarinw. snrrtarv In thr \diir- I'alty, was thr riiiinr^s nl' thr \ri:rtatinii nn its hanks, thr la- livriiiiiu' hrilliaiirv nt ,i rlnii llrss skv. ami thr aniniatinii _'r> r\i tn thr -irnr liv .-rvrral iriiidrrr that were gra/iiiL.' l»r>idr llie .stivau).." — 1'. -Jfj i. -..Mj.j. iiiri|Ml I. ill. S ,'lili'i|ll;iti- ■IPIIIIIli'lK'i - almilt ii||,' liciiii: liul- I'li-r iiilliiiLr III lilir. lllr' iii'tv yaiiU. ; 1(1 il> liii.il ct III' water ui-arK. iii- llilfil tn In iinMsiiiiiii; raiC t(t era:: ii the h'ad \\ all']- tniiii III' a I'liiiiij • lipi-ci'd ii|). ii-nacc, all. I IS ncca^iii'i- MUtll\\r-t nilv lit th'' M'lt' iiaiiii'ii \\\i' \iliii'- iiks. till- I'li- iiiatiiiii -'i\- /.iiil: l)i'>i.li' CAPTAIV PAURV'.S SP.COVD VOYAJiK. Ml K I'tiirtiiiis: on lioard. tliry foiiiid n sti-oni: soiitlierly liirr/i' to lliivf dl'ivrii tlir ICC ottlViiiii tlic sliurc. ati'ord- ill.; all i)|)cM clnimud licfwccii tlic ice and the liiiid c imt |i v^ than nine miles in width. l'|) tliis tiiey |n-nceede(|, iiiid pii'-sed seveiid headlands, ti) ca(di of whicdi they ■.;;i\e a n;iiiie. Such \va< the adviiiitii'ic <»l" ii tiiir wind and (ipeii wiiter. thiil, lis I'an says. •• we had lieeii lU- Miicd with iiii iiiiiihstrncled run of lilty miles; an event iif III) trilling ini|)oi't!iiice in this tedimis and uncertain n:i\i'.:iition.'' '^I'he ;;reat increa>e in the nnniher tif sea- liiij-ses conliniied the iiiiviiiators in the litdiet" tlnit they were now approiKdiint: Aniitioke. the coiintiy of MiLirnik, III the iiei^hhorhoiid of which slie and her companions had I'leipieiitly represcnled them as ahiindant. As they prnc'cdcd. these walruses hecame more iind more ini- nicrons every hour, lyiii^; in Jai'Lie herds upon the loose pieces ot' drift-ice. iiiiddled close |o anil lyiuLT upon eacli ntlier. in sepanite dro\es of I'rom twehc to thirty, the ulmlc niimher near llie boats heinii proh.ihly iilioiit two iiiliidi'ed. (Ill the Kith il iireat deal of liii:h land was hroimht in sl'jht to tli(> northward and eastward, which, on the lirst inspection of the Ksipiimiinx (diarts. was decided to he tti;i! hir^'o portion lietween wlii(di iiiid the continent lay till' promised strait, that was to lead the ships to the wi'-twaid into the i'olar Sea. So liir all was satisiac- tiiiv : "hilt, iilter sailing a few miles farther, it isimpos- siMe to descril)e oiir disappoint iiieiit and mortitii ation on ))crceivini!; an iinhroUeii sheet of ice e\tendin;; coinplete- l\ across the siip|)iised |>as^ai:e. troiii one land to the nllier." Here they Were joined by several Ivstpiinia ii\. lint none of their old t'riends, who had not yet arri\ei| at any of their stations. 'I'liey uhtaiiied Irom the new ones, lii'Wever. one very inlei'estiiiu piece ot' iiitormation. name- Is. that it was lirlooliU on which they were now almiit to land, and whie ot' Winter Uland, Init apparently somewhat less intellectual. I*a;ry now . how- cM)'. ha'l I.Mit one j.M'e;il ohjeci at heart. \\liic|i was to ;it- i, ( I »'.Vi — ^ ., 'I llilV Ct Accoidmiily, on tlic J itli ot Aiic'ist lio set our. on tlio Mil cro^scil the iJoiivt'rit! Isliiiids. and (»n the lullowiii;: ly iirrivcd ul n pcnnisniii. which hf oxinnnitMl, and |)ri(- 't'dt'tl to its cxtrrnio iiorthfin point, wliich was tound overlook tl.i' niiiTowcst pai't ot" the dfsired strait, ot' liicli ho iiivos tho Ibllowin^n hriot" acconnt : " 'l"iif strait lay innuodialL-ly lu-low us, in alMiiit an ra>t ami M'fsl diici'lioii. Iiciiitr two inili'> in widdi, a|>|iamitlv very (li'cp. .•111(1 w itli a tide or CMn'ciit of at li'a>t two knots, scttiiiu' tlic joosi' ici> thrniiL:li to tin' ca-tward. iJcyond us, to tin- Wi'st. the shores airaiii separated to the distaiiee ot' sevei;il leaLMU's, !ind I'oi' more than three ))oints otthe coinpa.-s iu thai dlrectioa no land conld he seen to tlie utmost limits of a ch'ar hori/oii. except one i>land six or se\cu miles distant. (Jvcr tiiis we could enterliiin no denht oi' li;ivim: discovered tin i'olai' Sea; and, loaded as il was with ice, we ali'eadv tell a- if we were on the point ot' tia'cinu' our way throiii.h it aloui' the northern shiM'es ot' America. •' After di>pa1<'hin^ one of oiii' partv to the foot ot' iht^ point fo»' some of tlie sea water, which was liiund extrenn-lv salt to the ta>le, wi> hailed tin' iuterestiiiL' I'veut of thi' moiaiiuLT hy thi'ee heai'tv cheers, and liy a small extra allowiince of iri'o:. to our people, to drink a >afe and >peedv pa>saL'e lin"oui!li thw tlianui-'l Just eiiscovered, whicli 1 ventured to name, by tuitu; iiiadc siM- itniiict', ii|i olil ice lint liaviiiii ar- ud as to its lur's delay and "stdp- •ry tlirc'sli- iiir wt't'ls.s. Wfstwaid. CSS paint'ii! LTlilul't' dl'- itward, ni- iiiii ill tli;il r, at li'iii;ih It IKtt, prr- aiid " tliii>. 10 rt".i|)i'(:t- oilt. (Ill tile (• t'ulldwill^' d, and ))ri»- was I'miiid A strait, ot" ;iii ('a>t and •I'lilly vciy (Kits, ^fltiiiL; u-i, In till' ot' srvrriil i|)a.-s in tliiit Is lit' a cli'ar laiit. Unit ■ovrrcd tin •ady I'rit -d- Ji it ainiii; nt' the piiiiit iiifly salt til iniirniiii: liy lirr (if lll'iii; liiniuirli thir II ■, Itv aiitii; CATTAIX PARRY'ri SI-COND VOYAiJE. 1 !,*{ i[)ili(iii, /hi' Si mil of the Fun/ nii'l Hrrln. Ifiiviiiu Iiuilt a. iiilf (it >t(iii»'s (111 tlic |>r(iiii(iiitury. \\lii(|i, ("nuii ii> >iiii;irntii \ iili n'-pi'cf 1(1 the (•(iiitiiiciil dt' America. 1 ciilU'd (',ij„ Sor'h- i-iist. we walked liiick to our tent and luL'U'aL'e. tlicM' li.i\ iiiu'. I'or the sake (if" ^n-eater exjieilitimi. lt(ea. Tuit lis the northeast point tVoiii wliieii he saw it tdriiis the Oiistern entrance only from the south side ot" tlie strait, niid he deenKMl it e.\pe(lit'iit that soiiiethiii:^ more of it sliiiiild l)e known, he took measures accorihnuly. In the (•nurse of a week following', a lii^ht iiorthea>terly liree/c allowed the ships to he steti'ed under all possihle sail up the strait. I>y keepinij; on the soiilh or coiitiiu'iital shore, ;iii(l pa-y I'arry ( )rmoiid and Liddoii lslan('>; the soulheiii point on the i'oi'mer of whicdi, heiiiii; directly opposite to (*;ipe Northeast, forms the iiortiiern point of the iiiirrow etitriince. to whicdi i'ari'y assiijMed the name ol" (ape ( >N-.oiy. The ships, howe\er, Wei'e soon stopped hy iipparently permanent ice diimin::: to the shores (»f the iiiiove-meiitioned islands and of' the contiiieiil ; •• and tinis." says I'arry. "after a vexations delay tdsix weeks 111 till' eastern eiitrariee of the strait, and at a time when we held every reason to hope that Nature, though hith- erto tardy in her animal disruption of the ice, had at: leiiL'lh made an effort to complete it. did we lind our pro:^'- ress once more opposed hy a harrier of tile same coii- limious. inipeiiet ralile, and hopeless nature as at >ir>t.'' Hopeless ;is it was that iiMK h more could lie done, as coiiceiiied the movements of the expedition, now tliit the month ot" Aiii^ust was just e\|)iriiii:. Parry \{'y\ pmp- crK determined that all donhts should he sati-'fii-'h a-j f 111 ^M ''it i, '1 s f Ml ARCTIC V0YA(;K;<. Avcll !is tliiit every iiilnnii;it ion slieiiM he trniiied. !is fo the leii;.'th of the sliMit. ;iii(l the extent el" the fixed ice theii-- in. l-'or this purpose, thi'ee ex|)!oriin: parties were seiit out ill (liH'ei-eiit direetioiis : that tor deciiliii^ the point in (|nestion consisted of \] r. JJnshnan with three men. nn- (h-r the orders o|" I/ieiiteiiant Keid. who was instrncfed to |)r(iceeil aloiii: the nortliern coast ol the strait to th ■ \vest\\ard. to i^ain as niiKdi inlorniation as possilile le- s|)e(tin^ the terinination of the strait, and to I'etnrn td the ships in tone days. |5y liis i-eport it appears tlial, hy an ol)servat i(»n on the secoml (hiy ot' liis jonrney, llic latitude he I'eacdied was 7(1 dH' i>") . and that from thi^ point he conid percei\f that tlie opposite or main-lainl (that is, the south shore ol' the strait) i;ra(hially Ireiideil to the s(»iithward. lea', iiii: a hrnad entrance into the we>t- ern sea. lie says: The weather hein^f clear, ali()r(lei| us an extensive |)rospect to the westward, and we conld now perceive that a hliilf near the iioilh shore, wliich had hefoi'e iippear<'(| insular, foriiieil. in reality, the north- ern point of the ent ranee, and I named it ('ajx Ihtlli'ir. W/. on! ol" respect to \ ice admiral Sir ISenjamin 1 1 a How- ell." To a line hay on the ( "ockhiirn- Island shore (the Moi'tii) he i:a\(' the naiiH' of Antrid::e. and t(» an inlet in the same land that of White ; and he concludes tiiis pari of his report hy saying that "the o|)eniny, of the strait into the I'olar ."^^ea was now s(t decided, that I c(»nsider- ed the principal ohject ol" my journey accomplished." It would have been more satisfactory if Mr. Keid had lieeii a little more circiiinstaiitial in his oliservatioii on tlir tW(» west(M'ii points of the strait; that wliicdi is named MiiLllerield on the (diart. hut hy whose authority doe- not appear, is not mentioned as a cape, iii'adually trend- ing to the southward, and leaviiii: a hroad entrance iiitn the Western Sea. It may hardly he necessary to oli- ser\(' that a |)oiiit (d'laiid seen ohlKpiely l"rom a distance of twenty or thirty miles must he \ery unsatisfactorily laiil down on paper. The \\ idtli hetweeii the two shore-> opeiiinu into the sen appears to ht ahoitt six or seven Hides. whi(di. compared with its length of sixty miles, can >^carcidy he called a •• tuaLiiiiliceiit passage."" Its ca- pacity, however, not withstandiiii: the ohstructiiiii islaiid>^, iii!iy he ainply suflicieiit tt; admit u passage into the i\>- 1, IIS to tile ifC tlnTc- WflC SCIil M* |)«)ltlt III ' lllt'll. Ull- iiislniclf(i I'iiit to ill ■ ossil)lt' I'r- ) return tn )fiirs tliiit. iinit-y, tin- 1 iVoiii tliis Miiiiii-liinil lly liTinlfil » the wt'st- ii\ iitloi'dt'il il we coiilil ore, wliicli , tilt' Mortli- jli llitllnir- liii I ImIIow- .-liorc (ilii- I ill! inlet III es this jiail the striiit considei'- plislied." Kei.l h;id ion on the is niiniiMl iiity iluiH illy trenil- I'lince intu iry to oli- .1 distiince tisfiietocily wo slloi'r> x or se\ ell \ty niile^. ■■ " Its Cli- iiii island-, to tlie i'u- iini t 1 ,1' II f V CAPTAIN rAIlllV ri SECOND VuVArJE. 115 l;ir Sell ioi- sliips ot u nioderiite si/e. tlioiirh it is pretty (irtiiin tiiiit no ship w ill e\er iiltempt it. not ineicly on iiccoiint ot" the iee willi which it iippenr.s to he periiiji- iieiilly l)lo(d\ed up. hut iilso ol'tlje perpetiliil cuneiit ■^et- tiiiL' down it. oee!isionin<: sueli ii tiiinull iioiis sxsell mid distnih.iiice ir.fioiiii the ice lis must render ,\ still more daiiuei'ous lor sliijis to ancdior in iiiiy j)!irt neiir the eust- eiii inoiith ot' the striiit. The •Jtth of Septemher haviiii; now mrived. Parry ceiisidereil it no Ioniser siit'e to venture the ships to re- main in this sen. their situiition heini; one otiiliiiost coii- stiiiit iiiid miiivoidahle danm'r. lie (h'termined. tliere- toie.to run over to luloolik in search ol' winter 'piarters, w liii h was accomplished, though not wiliiont imminent daii::('r to hoth sliips. 'Pile situation was not very lavoi-- ahle lor |)assini: the winter in, hut, iiy cuttinif ii canal in the ice as usual, tliey were placed in security. TIm^ whole leni;tli of" tliis canal was l.il.'J teet : the thickness lit' the ice in tlie level and reiriilar parts from I J to It inches, hut ill many places where a separation had (te- nured it amounled to several feet. •' I can not," says I'arry, '* surticiently do justice to the lioiild h(» pursued, and what e\|)edieiit iu' should hav(^ recourse to on their liberation rr(an the ice some ten or eleven months hence. His resolute and enterprisiufj charactei" was not likely to he satislie(l witli the litth! progress tliat had heeii made in the discovery of a noi'tli- west passage, wlii(di was tlie main oiiject of the voyafjc!. The measure in^ (•oiiteiii[)iate(l appeals to have been u IhiM one, and one whi(di, situated as the siiips wer«*, could not possibly liave been attended with any advim- tiii;e to that object, and would, to a certainty, have been productive of fatal I'esiilts to himself and tlu^ whole crew ; but let iiim speak for hims«df : •■ FlatteriiiLT as our prospects apjieareil at the connneiice- meut (if the past summer, our etfurls had certainly net been 'J' 1 r:* !f, , 1' t I i .# f i I • /I MG ARCTIC VOYAGE:?. i . ;itlfii(lt'(l with :i ])i'o|)(iiliiin;itc il('_r!T(> orsiicccss. innl litlln mii- isi'actioil I'dlClilird tn ils ;it tlic cIom- nt tlir M';i>i>ll hill the cnii- N'ioiisiios (if liiiviiiu' Icl'l 11(1 iiH'iiiis williiii iMir ic;icli iiiiti-iril lliiit ciiiild ill iiiiy \v,iv pi'oiiKitc iiiir (ilijcct. It ic<|iiiiril. in- (Ircd. l)iit 11 ."inu'lc i:liiiicf ;it lli<- cliitrt to |ii'rcrivi> tlial \vli;il- fvcr llic h>I >iiiiiiiicr"s iiavi^iUinii liad addi'd In mif i.'i'oi:ra|ih- ical kiinw IcdiTc nt' tlic rasti'i'ii cua^t ol America and its adil- ccat lands, very littif liad in reality l)eeii ellected in fiirtiier- Jince i)t' the Nmlliwest I'assaLre. liven tlie actual discovery (it'tlie desired njii-iiinu into tile I'olar Sea had heeu ol'iio prac- tical henelit in the |ir(isecuti(iii ol" onr en1er|irise ; llir we had only discovered this channel to liiid it iiiiiiassal»l(>. and to srr the harriers of" nature ini|>eiieti'ahly closed a;.'ainst us, to tln" iitiiiost limit (if the nayiirahle season. " Viewin;,' the matter in this liirlit. it appeared to I'esolv itself into the siijL'le (|ue>tion, hy what nwaiis the resoiirc of the expedition could possihly he extended heyoiid the pc- liod to which they were at present calculated to last, namely, the close of the year \'.V2\. Only one expedient siiuu'ested itself hy which that ohject could he attained, and this 1 deter- mined to adopt, should no iinfoieseeii occin're'.ice ai'ise to |>re- veiit it. It was, to send the llecia to lliiirlund in the follow- inu' season, takiiii: from her a 1welvemoiith"s provisions ninl fuel to complete the Kiuy's resoiil'c<'s to llie i'lid of the vea|- lIl'J.'), and then continnin;,'' onr etlorts in that ship singly a^ loiiir MS ;i reasonahle hope remained of oui" ultimate Miccess. One or two collateral advanlaues occurred to me as likely to he derived from this plan, the iir>t of which was the o|)pi)r- tniiity thus atVoi-diul of tran^miitiiiLr to the Lords Commission- ers of the A(lmir:ilty a full account of our past procee and present situation and intentions, wherehy, ])erlia|)s, mucli iieedltvss anxiety on our account iniLfht he preventeil. Ii ^vould also, as 1 hoped, allow their lordships the option ol luakiii!,' any alteration which they miLrht now deem re(piisitc in the arraiiLTtMuents pointed out in my instructions i-espectiii.' the ship to he sent to meet us near Uelirinir's Strait, for wliidi tlie orders miLrht not, perhaps, leave Kuizland heliu'e the airi- val of the llecia tln^re in the autumn of l"-j:]. These were. lioweviM", minor and less important considerations; inv prin- cipal oh)(>ct and determination heim,' to persevere, to the ut- most extent of our rt\sources, in the prosecution of the :il- llli till' rnn- icll llllllli'il iM|iiii-('(l. iii- tllMt Wllil'- i- (.'cuirrii I ill- Ill I its iidiri- iii I'lirtliiT- il tlix'dVi'lA I di' 11(1 |)i';i( - I'ur \vi' li.iil . mill tit M-f .t IH, to till- I to r»'solv(> i(> rt'soiircrs (•ml till." Ill- list, iiaiiirly, t SllL'U'i'>li'il this 1 (Iclrr- ;irisr to |iri'- l till" t'nlliiw- )visiiiiis innl of llic yr:ii' lip siiiLily !i- i;il«' silfccss. IS likely l'> -. till- i)|i|Mir- iiuiiiiissinn- riicrr(liiii:~ laps, iinicli VCIltlMJ. Il option ot 11 |-('(|llis!t(' ri'spt'cliii.' t. liir wiiicli n-c till' iini- 'lu'so were. ; my jirin- , to the iil- tlic (Mitri'- l. Hiiviiii: luuch siitis- lli my own, indivitlnals Viilt loi,'otlii'r lio arraugo- niriits it woiilil 111' r('i|iiI^Ito to mako for coinmciiciiiLr tlio rv- niilii'ii of our plan in tin- roiirsc of the fnllowini.' .-priiiir."— • r. :C-J-:t7 1. ( )iio ol'tii(> first (ipcrntioif was to hiiild m wall ofsiiow iwt'ho li'ct liiyh round tlic Kiiiy, iiiid at tlio distaiicr of twenty yards from lior. " t"oriiiiii«^ u jarye sipiaro. like that ot' a liirin-yard," liy wiiifli not oiily was tlio snow- drill kept out. Imt ii jjood slicltcrcd walk was ail'ordod ii!;aiiist every wind. Tlie l-'iiry and the llecla Aero si'pafiited oil iiccoiint of the lari:e hoiniiioes ot" ice. " Till' di-tance hetween the two >li!p~i, thouL'li iiit such as )ii [ircveiil constant intercourse, was iii'\ citheless too ^.o'eat tn ;illiiw of our continiiini: the theatrical eiitertaiiimeiits. hv which our liiriiier winters liac lieeii considrrahly enlivened. This was, however, the less re(|ni>ite, and. indeed, eiitirelv iiiiiieces.-ary, on account of our iieiuhhorh I to the ilsijui- iiiau.x. whose daily visits to the >liips throiii,'lioiit the winter iitlipideil holli to ollicers and men a fund of nnistant variety .iiiil never-liiiliiiLr aiiiiiseiiieiit, which no resoin'i'cs of our own niiiM |)i)ssil)ly have furnished. Our people were, however, tiMi well aware of the advantaLre they derived from the scliDols not to he desirous of their re-estaiilishment, which ac- ciirdiiiizlv took |>lace soon after our arrival at iLrloolik, and tlii'v were j,dad to continue this as their cM-niiiL,' occupation iliiriiii.' tho six siicceediim months." — 1'. :!?7-:!7;;. In llio mention of tiie l-'s(|uimanx. some of whom, it appears, htid come from Amitioke, and amon<.' whom were many of the old Mc(ptiiintiiiiees ol" Winter Island, it ini^ht liavo heeii expected that iliiilink would liave heeii iiinoiii; tlic lirst and foreni<)-.t : hut, strange' ii>* if may appcNir. the iia.'ie even of this extraordinary person, from whom .so ii.nch valuahh^ tmd correct information had l)0(Mi received, is only oiico mentioned, and then rather rc^proaclifidly, iis ii name in tlie iienertd account ot thes(> peoi)le ; tm iiccoiint that extends tf) iit least ii liuiidred pajies, descriptiv** ot" tlieir character, manniM's, and customs, and detiiiliiiiii; the various transactions that took place duriuii the coidinemeiit of the sliips, .Xmotii^ the visitors from Amitiokt' was that distinuuished youth Toolooak, th(> son of Hiiiliuk, who is repeatedly nieii- tioiicd aiul eomineiided. " I counted to-day." says Parry, ' on a ijirdie worn round the waist liy Toolooak's mother, twenty-nine deer's ears, ))ro(;ured hy tliis youtig man'a i •J ' I II" i ill- -0 '(Ii ii f 118 ARCTIC VOYACi: own rxcrtiDiis : ;i i;ir(ll«' which shf cuiistiiiilly wnirs, n-; M pntiid trn|t|.y nt her m»I|'s r\|i|nl|s : iiiiil,"" hi' !lil(l>. '• thci'f lire lew iiiuthcrs. imlcnl, who iniiiht not K.' ])ron(| of sui'h ii son its Toolooiik. \\ ho, on lon;:('i' in <|n;untiinct>, ([uilo niiiiula'nHMl his I'oi-nirr fhiii'iu-tci-. ol posscssini; ncniy fxrcllfnl (jii.ilitifs hoih ol hr;i(| nml hfjirt." I'ooc lli::liiilvl it n;inic iippciirin^ to lie no Ion- izer rcnii-nilirri'il hut iis 'I'onlooiiU's niotlicr; hut I'.iiiy MO (lonl)l MUini! to siiy thut Tooloonk wore the ^ndlf, '• whiili \V!is worn [usiuiUij) round the waist of his inoihiT." J)Ut t'lioniih l"or llio present ol" iho Ms(|ni- lllilllX. The !ippt';ii'iinc(' ot'scui'vy in sonit' slight l)nl un('(|iii\- (Miil symptoms cDnld scarcely he a snliject ot wonder. eon>iderinu the length of" time the ships' crews had no other dependence than upon their own I'esoinces, mias- ^.sted a'; tliey had lieen hy any supply of fn sh anti- xiirlmtic plants or other ve^etahles. a case nnpai'al- lejed in the annals ol" nasiualion. 'Die month of An;zii-«l liad commenced, when, as I'arry ohserves, " incredilile ii.s it may appear, the ships were as securely ciaiiineil in the ice as in the middle ot' winter, except that a poel of watei' ahotii twice tlieii' own length in diameter \va> Jiow open around them. I deteiniined. thei-efore," he ndds, •• not willistatidin;^ the apparent hopelessness ot" Nawinu our way throui;h l"our or live miles of ict\ to lie- iiin that lahorions pr(»cess." Jly tlu^ (ith of Auiiust ulioiit toiu' hundred yards ot' ice were sawn tlii'oujj,h and floated out. leaving now a hroad caiiid elescn Imndred yards in len<:lh. 'i'hrouiih this, and hy the disruption of the (h)e, the l''urv was liherated and Moated into open Avater on tlie Htli of Auyust, and on the rjtli was fol- lowed hy the IltM'la. Parry, now that the ships were once uKtre alloat, hei;au to itdlect on what ho had pro- j)osed to do on tlio return of summer. " ^Vll(•n the latiMie.-.s of the season to which the ships had now heeii detaiai'd in the ice is considered, with I'et'ereiice to the piohahility of thf Fuiy's etVectini,' any ihini: <>f iniportanoc diUMMi,' the short remainder of tlie picseat surnniei'. it will nut |)e woiidercMl at that, coii|)linu this coMsideration with that nt tilt health ot iiiy olhcers and men, I liei:ini to entertain doahf.s whether it would still be priulenl to adopt the intended nieais- '' .V » \ wciirs, ii-i he iiild-, lit not l>.' loii^ci" lit iiiiclrr. (il lifiid iiml In- no Inii- liiit I'aiiv [lie iiirdlt'. list ot" lii^ \u' l'-s(|ni- il un('(|ni\- i)t' woiitlcr. \\ s liiid iiii |C»>S, llllll-- I'n sh Hiili- i' uiiparid- • iiicn-dilili' Iv iMililillt'd tiiat a |)<)i>l Illt'tlT Wil- rctoi'c," lif t'ssiios 111 H'^\ to lif- ol" Aiii;u>t roii^li aiiil iiiiiidi'i'd ilisi-uptmu into open 1 was I'ol- lii|)s wcio e hud pi'o- sliips li.iil I'l'tl'fCIll'l' t<> iiii|)or1;nicv' it will not vitli thai lit itaiii dniiiit-i iidi'il UR':i>- cAiTAiv parry's SKCOVD VOVAHE. 1 ID uiv of rt'MiaialiiL' out in tin- I'lirv as a siiiL'Ir >lii|i; wlicllirr. ill -liort. iiiiil'T <'\i-.iiii\: (■iifiuM>l.iaci'-t, llic |iiiili.ili|i' f\il did lint till" iiiitwiiuli liii- piissildf L'oiid. Ill indiT to a>-i-t my iiw n jiid-nii'iit (Ml till-' o< ra.^ioii ii|iiiii (i| ilii- mu^l inati'iiid liiiiils, I n'i|iu'>t«'d llic ini'diral ulliicr-; ot iIh' l'ar\ lo liirni^h iiic wiili tlit'if (ipiiiidMs lis to tin- |)nili;il)lc ill't'cf tliat a lliiid ulllirr [la^^rd ill llirx' rcL'iolis Uuilld pmducr on lllr llriiltU III' the nlliciTs. sf.iiiirii. and inarinfx of iliiit -"hip, lakinir into rniisidcnitioii I'vrvy circnm^taiici- cfinnfclfd with dur >itiia- II..II."— I'. 17(1. Tho r('|)ly ot" Mr. Mdwards. tlic sin't:('on, \va^. as niiirlit 111- fxpcctcd, dccisivt'. I ndt'i' any circinMstancos. im staiod that an incrca^o ol' u'onrral dchilitN'. with a fia' I't'spuiidniL; d("4rt't' of sicknrss. mi^hi he cxpt'cItMl ; ImiI, i:i»iisi(h'i'iii^ tlif inattoi' as in a sini:lo ship, it assnnir> u iiiiiidi nioio important sha|i('. In that view, the incrraso (if lahor and o\posii|-c. fruiii the separation ol"lht« vessels, the privation of many salntary oeeiipaticais, mental iiml nirporeal. attending their ntiion, inid, at this late perioil nt' the season, the hepelessiiess of the snceess of tho rusniiiii navii;ation, wonid he swell as to e\cite feelini^s Mittieiently lively to counteract tlios(< depressiiiii causes. The siihstaiice of the answer heini; sent lo ( 'oiiimatider L\on. after noticing the ^reat (lianiic he had oh^erved in llie eoiislitlitioii of the uflicers and men of the lleel;i tVdiii the eoiitiimanre of one |)artieiilar diet. aliiio>I tola! ilepi'ivalion of fresh animal and ve^etalile food fur ahoxn two ; I'ars. and tin* necessary and close eonfniemenl ti.r sr\erid months o|' eacli severe winter. " I conceive." ho sa\ s. ••that a continued esposnie to the same depriva- tions and conliiieinents. tin* solitude of a simple ship, and iiie painful moiiotiaiy of a third winter to men wlioso lirallh is precarious, would in all |)rol)al'ility he attended willi verv serittns c(aise(piences."' lint ho uoes tarther. and notices the inutility (d' the ineasnre. l''rom the circumstance of heiiii,' detaineil in the ice until tin* present time, tho Idlli id" Aminst. •• I ;iin (d" opinion," he says, "that the season in which it is ]ios>il)le to navii:ate has now so far parsed tliid nothin'.-; material can Ix* (dfecti'd either hy one or huih >.liips. We UiKiw. from the experienct* ot" last year, that it is not litd"ore the end cd" .\n::ust or the heiiinniici ot" S>'[)- toinlier that the ice hreak-^ nj) in tin* Strait f u •^** i I I f,l l.'iO AUCTKJ \()V.\(;i; liii'l I Ici'lii. liiid tliiit it is lint iMilil tliitt pci'ioil lliiit \(m Wil tf riialiifil tu it'-f\imiiiir lis wrslcrii I'liti iiiicc Ami lie \\i>t'l\ (•(iiiclinli's liy iidvisinu tli.it the Kiiiy iiiiil lli'clii iTtiini lit l!ti^liiiiil In^t'tlicr. wliitli I'iiiiy jis \viNrly llr(r|it>. I inlcr siicll riifiiiii>liiiic('«;, lie siivs, I III! loiiui'i' •'••iisidtTi'd it |iniil('iil or iii<.tirnili|f, iijiun tll»' slciiili-r cliiilici! Ill' r\('iitiiiil siii'Ci'>s iKiw Im'Ioit h>. tit I'islv tlif Milfty iA' lilt' ((Hici'is iiiid Micii cuiiiiniltnil ti) mv (diiii;;!'. iiiid wlmiii it was now iiiv lirst wish tu iv'CdiidiK't ill ^nud IumIiIi tu tlirir cDiintiT and tlicir lririid>."' Il;uiii:_^ (■(iiiH' ti) tlii-i dt'cisioii. and lia\iii^ rxtl'icatfd tilt' ships litHii tlit'ir conrnH'iiit'iil, nil tin- 1 Jlh ol' Aiijiist it'V stiMid t»iit t(» lilt' I'iistward, iiiid li'i!ill\ tnnk their t) dt'|)iirt lire tuiiii liiltiiilil lit^ ciiirciil rapidly hiinit'd tht'iii In the stdithward, llii'ir drill lifini:; twi'iily-nii mill's ill |\\ ciity-rdiir hours, ihoiiuh cloNfly i)t ..ct, and >Mtlioiit a sinult' po(»l ol watt'r in siiilil thf wholf liiiif. At niic place lilt' ships wt-if whiili'd idiiiid ti headland at tilt' rate ol" two or ilin'c knots an lioiii A lit r pa.> inu tilt' harrow Kivt-r. they wi-it' ilriltfd out nine or t<'ii miles Iroiii the land, llit^ iiilhieiife ttt' this ii\er liaviii,; prtilialih thus set them out. ( )ii the .'jdtli tliev wi'it> fliise to Winter Island. "'i'liiis had we." says Parry, "in n most sinirnlar maiiiier, oine iiinre ari'i'. rd at mir old winter (|iiailers, w iiii scarcrlv a siii^ile >iiiie»rid exertion nil our jmits toward I'lrectiiii.' that iihject. 'I lie di-itaiice rroiiH )ni;rn to oiir pie>riit station was aliniit line Imniheil and >i.\ty luiles aliniu' the coast. Ot" this v.e had i)e\ ei- si/i/r,/ aimve t'liily, the rest of the distanco haviii:: heeii accoinpli-hed, while we were iiniiio\ahlv he.-ct. hv iiiere dritliuL'. The interval thus einplo\rtl having' heeii haieiy eiLdil days. i:\\f< an aveiai:e drift to the suuthward ol' jdiove fillei 11 niiles per day." — 1'. 171!. Jit'iii<; set last in the ice in proceeding: to tlu» soiitli- >vard. a slrony westerly hree/e on the 17th of Septem- l;fr allowed iheni to sliapt* their course for the Trinilv Islands in a perfectly open sea. From hence they ran down lliidsoii's Strait without luet'tini^ with any oh- -.1 ruction, and on tlie 1 oth of ( )ctoher entered the liarhor ol'J'ressay Sound in Lerwick, where they ('ii)oyi'(l tho " lirsl tract' t.if civilized man that tliev iunl seen lor I ir\ WiTo r.M'TAlN I'AUUV.S SKCOND VOYAtiE. l.'il s('vrri-iiiii«i wliicli tlicy )')'rri\<'(| I'liMii llir^c jiuor lull li(i>|»ilalilf j)(.'nj»li' i.s llms Iri'liimly (li'M rihi'fl : •• i li r| ll iitliily iiii|iii.«»ilili' !i(l('i|ii;iti'Iv to cxinos tin- kliid- III-—. .'Hill llllflllinii we ifri'iM'il liii' till' lllli'c or linil" (lil\> liiut \\i' ui'ii' (li'tiiiiird ill llrt'fisay Soiiiul Ity u toiitiiiiiiiinf ttt nu- t.iMijiililf uiiiils. ( )ii tin- I'iiM iiilliiMi;itinii (if (Hir jiriiviil tin* IiriU ril' LiTuirk writ" M'f riiiuiii^', tlic iiiliiiliiiaiits llnckfd finiii rvriv piilt i»t tin' ('(lUlitry to r.\|ir»'>s llirir jov lit our llll- r\|M I'tt'il irliii II, !iinl llif tow II \v;i.s iit iiL'lit illuiiiiriMlfil. as if t' I'll iiidiv iilniil liiiil :i lirutlirr or m .-mm iiiimiiil' ih. On llit) Ijtli, liriiiu' Siiiiil;iv, tli'* oII'k cis iiiid im-ii ul Imlli slji|is nt- t' iiili'd diviiif M'r\ ill' oil slioir, wlirii llic wiiimIiv iiiiiii.-.lfr, till' Ki'M'Irlld Mr. Mrll/ii'S. who \s;i> Itrtiilf Wt'll klluWIl to iiriiiv .•iiiiiiiiL' a-', oiri'ird II 1 1, ill till- iiiii^I Mill Ml II and iiii|irr-vi\ o iii.iiiix'r, a lliJiiiksL'is iiiL.' I'lr (jur >iiri' iftinn, ;il tlir >aiiii' tiino cilliiii.' ii|iiiii n>, willi iii'i'iit raiii''.>tiir^s. iirvcr to liir-i't uliiit wi' iiuril to lliiii wild liiid liirii 'iilioiit oiir piitli mid alioiit <■ u' lii'il. iiiid who >|ilrlli out all oiir wiivs.' Th" |if( iili.irily of tin- t;iii(i's niidcr which wi- li.id joiiinl ihr ciuii.'if. ;.';itIoii. till- WMiiiitii of li'rliiiLT r.Nhiliiti'd liy every |H'rsoii ns- Maiilil-i'd within tin- sacii'd w;dN, toirclliir with tin" atli-ction- ati' riii'r::\' of the prriicht'r. < oiiiliiacd to |iroda(<' an rtltcf (tf which wiads ciiii convey Iml linlc idi'.'i, hut which will not (;a>ily he clJiiccd fioni the minds of iho.si' who swiv piocut na this Jilli.'ctini,' occasion." — I'. UK!. ( )ii the 1-tli Captain Parry arrived at tlin Admiralty, iL'id tile ships were paid oil' on tlie Kltli of Noveiiiher. ( >ii lookinsj hack al the liorrihle iiaviiration iVoiii tlio etitianr-e of lliidsiui's Strait to Wintfr Islaiai, tliroiiyh Middlelun's l''ro/eii Strait, akaiij; the coast of the land which separates I'rince l\e;:eiit's Inkt from l''o\'s ( 'lian- iiel. and the same villanons kind of navigation alony tla* -iiiiie coast from Winter Island to l^loolik. near tho month ol" tile l''mv and llecia Strait, there does not appear to he the Hli^htest enconraueiiient ever to s(MI(1 Miiother ship to that (pnirter, even had the navigation of that strait heeii always open, sate, and conxenient, for in thai case it conld Jiot a(li)rd any advantage. It opens uito a strait, anions,' islands of" the I'olar Sea, callefl I'rince lve,'_'enrs Inlet, otthe lower part of which mith- iiiil was at this lime knoNvn heyiaid Uitiliiik's infoi-ination (correct in all other parts), that it terminates at Akk(»o- if.'o, nearly ( in that ror- lUM' air so clustered ;in.l crowded til^ellle|• as to a'I'inii ot' no |)i'(ili;il)ilil y o|' a iiavii;ali|e pas^au*' tlirrc lor hirt;o hlnps to the west wai'tl, and no man in his senses wonid take that hne (»l route to ports ot" KranUrni, Kichardson. Uack. and siili- se(|iienlly hy Simpson, that the coast of North America, which is tli(^ southern shore olllie INilar Sea. is navi^a- hle thronjihont hut hy canoes oi" hoats only, and tint, larue ships (Mmid not attempl it nnless at a very cons'd- erahle distance from the shore on flu* sea. and outside the mimerons (diaiiis of small islands that, on iIk* eastern ])ui'tio!i in particular, nm parallel to the coast. CATTAIV G. F. LYON. 153 niltsiilo (MIAI'TKIl VII. (;APTA1\ liKOKllE F. LV(L\. 18:24. K'liT/ifirr of /i (iri/n r, (iml //n wr to the Volttr L'odst I'l Siirth Ami'rirn urcr In ikI . Vwv. ( ii'iprr was (•i»iiiiiiaii(lt'(l, otl'iccifil. mid iiiiiiiiUMl us iiiMit'f : GcoriTf F. [.V'lii, r;i|ifiiil. I'l'tiT Miii.ifu, / , , , ;. ■ II r I l.iiiitcnniit-*. Mr. Kiiiiliil, As-ir-tiiiit Hiirvc yur. 'I'liiiriiii-- Mviiii?!. I'lirscr. John 'r .Mill' .<('.iiiiiii. 41 'I'lital oil liOHI'iI. This 'mr()m|)lt'((' vi»\ iiizr lias fnily an imliiTrf iclafiori III the discovery ot' a iiu|-tli\Vf»l |)a>'s;i^i>. it-< -.oIi- dhjccl, liMMii^ IxMMi t(» comiilt'lt' tilt' land survey nl" flie casierit pdilioii o|' tile iiurtli co'ist di" .North .\iiierica, iVimi iho western shore of .^lelvllle I'eiiiiisiila as tar as to ("a|)(» Tiirii-aiiain, where ('aplaiii Kraiikrin's late join'tiey ter- iiiiiiated. IJeiiii;. tlieret'ore. (•oiiiiect<'(| with Aretie dis- ('ii\ery, and under the orders ol an olli- "r who ((uii- iiiaiided the second ship in Parry's second voyaiie. and ilirectiMl to )»roce»'d to the same ixalion ot the Arctic Seas where he had already heen with i'arry. it is deeni- cl riirht and projier to i^ive to this expedition a place in till' |iresent narrative: and the more so, ii> it riiriii>lies a lieaiitil'iil and striking example ot'ihat ohedieni'e to or- ilcrs. that calm and nncomplainini: siihinissioii. incoiii- piiiiied with pious •esiyiiation to the I )iviiie will in iLo lioiir ot' extreme dandier, and wlieti the Jiwliil iiMimnit; 01 death i.s approaching, \Niiu.'li, ull i^o cuiispicueus Ht thu n t h 1 ^ V I R I : / 5 ' I IT)! ARCTIC VOYAGE:^. cliiiiactrr of JJiitisli sciiiiit'ii. arc fXt'inplifH'Ll in this voy- Ill ol'dt'l' to cnect tlic nhjcct in view, it Wiis dfcidcil, as hriiii: ^A^^' i'rail;('>^l and most siniplo mode ol iiidccfd- inii, to sriid a small vrssri to \\'au<'i" lii\t'r or Ivrpiilso J5a\ . Milder tin' orders of an iiittdlii:riit olficcr. who. willi a small party, should he instrnctt'd [•> cross the Mrlvillo I'ciiiiisiila from one or oilier ol' the a. ove - mentioned places, and traverse, hy land, the wotein shore ol thai peninsula, and the norihern shore of North Amei'ica, to I'oint 'I'nrn-au'ain. ('aptisin Lyon, having lieeii promot- ed lor his services, was selected hy liord ISatlmrst for this duty; and the liords ( 'oinmissioners oi' the Ailiiii- I'alty iia\ i Hi: appointed the ( Jriper. a !iiin-hrii,' of 1 >(» tons, to rt'ceive liim, L'uve him directions to leave the ship, dniini; his land journey, in charge of llie senior lieuten- ant. Iiii:rTr\.\NT Fkanc is lT\Ki»iN(i, after pnyint: oflilio ( I riper, serveil three years as lieutenant of the Ivspoir, then ill the Ile(la, and was made coinmandei' in Ir-.'IH; he served in that rank in scni-ral ships till the year I -.■;!». and was |)romot«!d lo thi> rank of captain in the general promotion of 1 -H . I*KTKK M.\M« <» was made lieutenant in 1-11, seived in the jireseiit voyage, and is still on the list of lieiiteii- aints. .loiiN 'Pom was promoted lo the rank of lieutenant ui 1^'Jli. where he still lemaiiis. The (iriper was considered a very useful vessel of lier class ; her strength was pro\ed helween the ice and the sina'e of .Melville Island, and ( 'apliiin ( 'lave ring hail hut arrived in Knuland in her, at the ^'iu\ of the preceil- ing year. iVom a voyaue to Spit/heryen and (Ireeiiland. She was now, for Inr present \oyage, examineii and wtdl titreiiiithened ; lint, on heiiig stored and amply pro- visioned, was I'ound to he too deeply laden to cross the Atlantic almie. and thfiefore Ins maieslv's sui'veving vessel the Snap, commanded liy Lieutenant llullock, was ordered to receive a piatioii of them, and to accoiii- |iaii> the (iriper uulil -he irutlu'd the ice, or lUTiveil olf Lap"' < hidley, Thoy suilt'il iVoiii iunijoiitli KuuUs on llu' luili ff Ins vny- Iccidt'il, irnccfd- Kr|)lll>n ll(t, Nvitll M.'Uillo rlitliMifd • of tliai icricii. 1o liroiiml - lurst ttu' V Atlmi- 1 ,-() lOIIS, lln' ship. • lu'lltlMI- Ml nfV \\\>i o Kspnii-. ill lr:;(i; vav 1 -••;''. iC gt'iu'ial 1. scrvcil t" lit'iittn- itnmiit in Vt'SScI tit (• icf mill riii;i liiiil ■ j)l-t'C»'ll- I't't'lllilinl. liiii'd iitnl ii|)ly pi"- (TOSS till' siirvcvini; r.iili.MK, 111 jircdiu- iirri\nl 'I'l iJlll I'l' V'\'' CAI'TAIX (i. r. LVO\. l.-.n )0 .liiiit'. ami arrivcil jit StroiiiiH'ss on tlif .".Utli. '• ( )n tlio ;',i\ nt .Inly." ( 'aplain Lyon s;iys, •• wf lioistcil in two \('ry piiwcii'iil lilllr ponies, procnrrd at Ivirkwiill. the (iiily two on the island, and \vhi(di had hren sent iVoiii Slii'lland to an ( Mknoy laiid ; oim> was I'oily inches, tin* utlier lhirty-ei::lil in iiei;:lil." They also leceived ii I'iil; ( uw and eiiilit sheep I'oi" the ciew. The poor cow, it; ".reins, refused to eat. and was therefore killed for pres- ent use; hn! the ponies pro\ed hotter sailors, walked alidut the ship as familiarly as lame do^s, and improved la their appearanct* daily. ( )n e\aiiiiniiiii the bays of |n'iiiniicaii, to their i^reat inorlificaiion i^ was foniid 'lat liic ■ I had melted, and that the water-proof rum/tc/ionc \\a< ;Mi;';inu; in a clannny state throiiLih the canvas. The Worst ot'all was, that the slii:;;;ish (iriper ret, however, the two ships made the ice. coiisistinii of her^s ainoiii; the tloes ; when, accdrdin^ to the instructions, they heiian to remove tht> St lies and provisions out of the ."^iiap. by wlfudi the decks III the (iriper were completely crowded. L\oii says tile Lianiiw a \s. forecastle, and ahaf't the mi//en-ma>l wern lillcd with casks, hawsers, whaledines, and streain-ca- lili's : the lower deck crowded with casks and other xinr: s; not a place jell \acant except the mess-ialiles of llie men. Thus Ininf 'red and hron^hl down deep, her sailing ipialities. had enonuh lu'foie, were now expectpj to lie mnch worse. ll was foniid. al>o, hy ohseixatiojj, that lor two da\s they had been e\i)ose(l to tin- unittul in'ce of the strony currents from |)a\is"s and J I ndsou'H Miaits. toward ihe latter of wliich they were approacll- iMi:. ( hi the Itli of An::n!*t tin* Snap parted comjiany, l»» pincMi'd in the tarther e\eriitioii of h'T seinices. On ihc Utli thu Lini>c"r Imd i4ii»ioucliod Kfsulntiua li'r \i iH ir)0 ARCTfC V0YAGn?5. ; 'i fsliiml. tlif son rovcnMl with lodsc liciivv ice. I)ii1 tlif d;iy (Ifscnhcd as Invt-ly, and llic skv l>ii!li;iiil : yer tli" iii'ill- iaticy iiiid lov rliiicss wliirli siirnmiidrd ( 'aplain Ly(»ii wcic not siirCicifrit tti ixrvnit hiiJi lV<»iii *• y irldiiiii tu a sfiisalKtli of l(»iM'liiM'>«s lit' liad iicvfi' »'\|)«'nfii<'('d on ill loiiiicr V(t\ nijc I Idt most torcil !% ." lit* sa\ s. '• tli want ot" an ai'fom|iany niu sliip. il' not to lii'l|) us. at li'ast to liii-ak till' doatli-likt' stilJiH'ss of tlio sfon \ o Woil- (liT at tins tffrini:, wIuti all tlio lircuiiisluiKcs ol" liis po- sii ion arc foiisiil«'rc-; friendly terms." Twti days after lliis the ship slriHK on a rock, and the heavy and continued shocks herji I her so mncli that the commander •* im!ii:iiied she was turning ovt-r."' She mii:ht hint' ^iiiie down, in which case Lyoirs "ample compen^alitin"' wonkl have heen ei little use in this miiiihabited and tlesolate part id" ili ijflnlie. The cfiiistant >-hippinL: of sens and the continued \s > ' wcfirher had rendered every ihini: within the slii|) •• veiv (lani|i." The two |»onies. therefore, with the ducks, jji'ese. find fowls, were handed out upon the ice. where, the ijiplaiii say.s, •• they presontcd a mo>t novel appeiir- nnce.'' To eiilivni ihe scenf. alioiit sixtv l!stjiiimaii\. men HM(1 women, in kayaks «nd uomiaks. \isited tlM> stnumers. matle ii lond, screamini; noise, and hronjlit with them some tridiii'j articled of l.arfer. chiedv weap- oti<» find skin clol Ih'S ; and our captain s.ivs. ■• I hlnsli vlnlfi r reliiti' if. t\\r)ut t*i.> I'u • se\ actiiallv liispoM'il ot' lh«'ir nether i,iu'meiits — ii j»ioco oi tmloiMjmm 1 hud ii" ■ tlif (lav I.-- l.nli- III Lynn liii^ til ;i (i nil llii> vs. " tlif . at li-asl No Wnll- it' his ji'i lOl'l' lllllll ;in(l sIiil: had Im'i'ii ririilr aii'l iir in tliH It is rnu", n-iij:tli 1" 'US llliilll', iMiinpaiiN . iply ciiiii- •• liy liii\ - s and iiK'ii tlu' ni<»^; lip Sl fill K ^ hr.'l.-t >\w VVII-. II VvliU'l' llCfll I't 1 of till- III km] \Sct |) •• very (• diicKs, , wllfir. iippi'iir- |iiiiiiaii\. ilcd t.ln> Itl'niiullt K' wciip- I Mii^h >pti^('il ivt hud II'" - C.M'TAIN C. r. I.Vo.V. 157 ( r lit'loif witiu'sx'd." TIh'it was no iici'd. iKtwcviT. (if l)lii->liiiiU. :.ti" ill ill"' same iii'i'^hltorhuod I'any was uHit- ri| ilir same thin:;, hiii his lilii>hes were >piiied on liiirl- iiii: tlial the lady Wore a dniilile set. I^yuii must havt* liii'ii present when I'arry's l!|iishe> were spared. Net withstainhiiu the (Jriper's ihili saihn;:. they cnii- tii\ed ti» jiet her past ("harles's Islamh l)ii:m's's Island, a:Ml ("ape Wolsleiiheim hy the 'JOtli of ,\ii^nst. aiii. two di\s alter saw the hi;:ii land ol' Si>'ii!;ampti>n Isiaml, <»H ('iipe I'eliihroKe their eoliipasses Were I'liUlid to lie (jiiile useless with the ship's liead to the soiithw ard. and Ml powerless that the north point stood wherever it \v;is I'liii-ed liy the linuer, hiit with the ship's head to the noith- w.iid they all tiiuersed a^aiii. This has heeii always a ((instant eoiiiplaint within the .\r( tic ( 'ir( le. and paiticn- liiiiy near to and lietween the two northern iiia;:nelie pules. It is a snhject oi" such ixreat importance, and has excited so much interest, and lor the last live years has lirt'ii so extensively iiKjuirecl into experimentally, that flii're i- every reason to hope the principles ol'ierrestri- :il iiiauiietism will receive a satislacterN elucidation, as- sisted hy the oliserv atioiis conducted under the direction ol' Captain Sir .lames Uoss in the southern aiitaK tic scMs, Hiid also hy those; which Sir .lohn l-'ranUlin haa lii'cii instrui'ted lo maUe on his |.>r<'sent voyage. Ciiptnin Lyon siij:^ests whether this wildiiess in tho ciiinpiisses m;iy not In- caused hy the nhsi ini ol'tlie snr) or tlu' presence of" the aurora. .Mr. Kendall, li<' say>), oliserved tliat, diiriiit; the prevalence ot' a lirilliant miroru, the liirlioard liiniiacle (•(inipa--s w oiild remain stationary' at no particular |)oint. w hile the siarlioard one, hy ;i heur- iii:: ot" tho polo star, hail Jesseiicd its usual ej ror two points. As Taptain \,yr>r\ wn«i takin/ his \v«ll\s on sIioib, ho fill III with a little incKJeiit which ^ave expression to a ^cn'inii'iit of' thiii Uiiidly feelinii he was known to po«- sc--. Hiid which \\\< own words will he^f <'onvey, T?h ^Vll•, crossiiiii an l-isipiimaiix biiniil place : *■ Neiir ihi hn'irr' t.'rave \va8 a third pil" of iifniirn, covoviug till' hoilv of a cliild. wliicli w:is coiled up in (lie canic Miiiuiicr [ I- the utile rj. .\ ■i|^h Uic l()0«e stom s whit it fou»|'oi*c»i ihid \\\.\\' loiui), and it.s luivv I .i, \ 111 i; i l.-.H ARCTIC VoVA«;i;S'. fc>r>;ikcii. tit"'ntK--liuili nc^t w.is tiniuii |il.ic('il on llu^ wik nl llii' cliilil. \> llir >.iic'\\ -liiiutiiii,' li:i>* ,'ill till- ili>tni-.lic \iilii<'. Ill iiuf I'.iiu'lili ri'illir(',i--t, il li.is ,ilv\;ivs Ihtii nin^idcml 1(\ in ;i-i till- rcilnii nt tlii'sc (lir;ir\ \\ iliU. miiiI its li\t'l\ cliiip .iiul ti'iii li'-,>, cinitiili'iHi' li;i\r ii'iiili'|-('c| il ii'-|ii'(ii'(l li\- llir iii(i-.t limiu'iA s|)iirl>iii:iii. I « itiilil iml, on this occ'isiiui, \ icw il> lilllr iii'st. |)l;i(C(l nil llii> IdiMsl (if iiit;iuiv, witliiiiit \\ i-liliii,' t!i;it I |iiwsf>^ril till- |iii\\fr (it |iiicll(:ills cxinf^iiiL,' tlir Iccl- inu- it fxclif.l."' — I'. t;;;-(;'i. Tln' liiitlii'i' tlicv |tr(i('iM'(lt'(l to tlic ii(»rlh\v;ii"(l ii|i tin- Wt'lcKiiit'. tile iimiT slii^^isli iiiid irr»'milMf llu> coiiipiiss- rs :;(»| ; iimi Lyon (jiiolfs ,-i piissjiiic nut ot Kills, in In-, nccoiiiit of |)ol»l)s"s t'\|nMlitiitii ill til" vciir 1 7 I'i, to sluiw lii!il tlifv wore tlio sMiMc ;il that tiiiic. A tliicU I'o^ iind a lii'avy sea. ami no Iniiil to hi- scfii nor iiiiy ttaist to In- plact'd in llio coiiipasst's, ami wiliial tlit* waltT siiiillow- iiiii ; llic ship not al»li> to lace the sea or Ut-cp stftTauf way on hiM'. ('aiMain Lyon says: "I most rohictantly lironuht lnM- up with tiirfo howcrs ami a siroani anchor in succession, luil not hcloro \vc had sliojiicd to live and a hall" lalhonis, the sliip |iitcliin^ l)o\\s under, and a Ire- iiieiidiMis sea ruiiniiii:." In this perilous condition, i^- iioi;'nt in what direction and liow distant the land iniulit he. and nmler the dread, moreover, that the railing tide (I'roin twehe to litteeii I'eet) would most prohahly occa- sion the total d"struction ol" the >hip in order to pro- \ide fur such an unl'ortunate event, the loni;l)oat was ])r«*|iared to he hoisted out witli tiie tour small ones, jiiid ordered to he stored with arms, ammunition, and pro- visions ; the ol'licers drew lots lor tlleir respective ho;its. * Oil ri'Miliiu' tlii'< (i;i>.-;i;:c Id nil aci'diiiiili-lud Imly, r-lw t<:iicl Au- till .i i1i'>;ri' f(i try wint s'u- (•(HiM dd witli sci intin •^till-: m sutvjrct in tlii' \\:iy WinliivJ lur liy ('ii'Iiiili Lvdii. aiiil iiruilucrd tlic liillowiiiu liiic-i ; TO Tin; SNOW lUMINC. " 5»'.-i f Iiirii 1 the I'Ti'iist ot" iniiocriu'o ll;ilil lailili'-s charilis tor line ; Altliniull till' ^|li^iI loiu lliis lied, And lit'i'li'-is clay it lie : llion dr.'iiili'st not to dw.ll with .(o.itli, Sociiro t'loMi liariii or ill, Vvr on all intaiit'.s In art tliy nost U wroiu'lit witli r(iU'lf''.< !ik\\\. And. like our o\\ n I'nniiliar liir.l 'J'hai si'i'k-i tl;r hum m tVand. Tti"n <-\>r, r'-t III.' \» 111(1. riij -rritiv.n'< dh.M-r^tfl Witii buuie, lua luiii luul i tic)."~-Ci£ujioiA>A. (' ii"('k liiii^ - till' I'cfl- rd \l|> till- (■iiiii|t;i--< \\\<; 111 111-- I. to show •k I'o;: mill ni>t In 111' !• sllilllllW- > stt't'lM'."' fluct;itill\ III) ;ini'lii)i' (t live iiiiil and it t II'- iditinn. iii- Miid luiulit I'idlinu tidi- Illy uccii- '|- lo jlflt- )ii;it was (iiii'<. and and l»i'i>- iv(> lmal>. ill till' \\,iy ( \n\i\ «;. r. i,\()n. 1.')}) mid till' •'hip's ciMMpaiiy nci'f stafiniicd tn tlinii. '* Kv- f\\ idlicfr and man." says llic caiitain. "drew his lot with tin- i^iralfst (•(»in|)osiir»'. allhoiiL:li two of ihr lioals would ''.ivr Iti'i'ii s\\ain|M'd llio inslanl tlirs wrro |o\v- cird." Ill tho iiioaii tiiiio. iho heavy soiis roiit iinird to s\vi'i'|t oviM* till' ciowdcd ili'ckN. ( )ii the wcallirr cli-ar- iiil: a litllf, a low licarli was d;sco\ci od all I'onnd astrni nl' till' ship, on wiiirh the Mill was niniiiiiL:, to an awful liri::ht. and ** it appcaird hnt too )>\iilfiit that no jinniaii |ioufi' could savt- lis if diivoii upon it." At this inonii-nt till' sihp. hciii'^ liflfd liy a ticiiiriidoiis sea, struck with '^rcat violence the whole ieiii^th ol' her keel. This was iiatnially conceived to he the I'oreriiniier of her total wreck. The decl^s \s ere coiiliniially and ileeply llood- cd . for IweniN tour hours, it is slated, most of the men had iici left these decks, and the ( aplaiii had not heeii m lied for three ni::hts. In siudi a hopeless case, ('aptaiii Lyon did that which ;: riuhl-minded liiitisli naval olficer never fails to do on the a|>par«>nl approach ot' the ^isi extremity. Iiiit it is due to him and his hrave seamen to descrihe their sitiifi- tioii and conduct on this trying occasion in his own words : ■• \llhiiiii,di fi'w or iiitiir nf 111 liad aiiv idi'a that wi- siiiiiild survive the L'ale. we did imt tiiiiik llial oiii" <'niMti)rl^ slinuld 111' elltiri'ly lieulected, :illd :in eider vva> llnietliif Lliveii Id the men to |iiit lai their hest and warnie'^t cluihiiiL'. tn eii.ili|i> iIk'Iii to siipperl life as Inji:' a-- piis>ilt|c. l',vei-\ man, tin re- tine, liroiiL'hl his liaL; on deck, and ilre-M'd him>ell'; and in the liiii' athletic Ihrnis which si I e\|>iised het'die me, I did net s >iii' mnxle t|ni\er, inir tlii' sji-litest sii'ii ot alaiin. rile ulVicers each secnred >iime iisi'|-\ atinii, allliiiu_'li it w as aekiidW leiLjcd, hv all that not til' sliL'lile>i liii|ie ii'iiiaiiied. \nd imw tl;at evcrv tliiim ill iiiir |)ci\ver hai_;nii| to llieir fate. We then all sat dewii in ^iiiii|i>. and. sl.rliri eil frem the wrish of the ».e i li\- whilevi-i- we cnuld liiiil, manv til iH eiideavered to ohlaiii JV liltle Hlei'[>. N-Aer^ peih ips, V as witnessed a IhnT scene than «m tin* deck f>t mv liltle f>lii|i, wiicii all hope ol hi- had lett iis. Nubie iw tin- tharucier of 'i: ': -i 1/ Ill 100 ARCTIC VOYAGKH. tiic I5riti ;il\\;i\s uiluuni to Im- in cjim'^ ut (l;iii:;fr. yi'I I ilid mil litlicvf it til l»r |iits>ilil«' tliiit. iiiiiniiL; lnrly-uiir |iCI>(lll>. IKit line li|HllillU' NVciIll >lniul(l ll.lVf lircll lltl.tlCil. 'I'Ijc ollicfi's s.it Jiliiiiil w licrcM-r liii'\ iniihl iind .^lullcf Iroiu ll' -c.i. .'iiiil liic ini'ii la\ (Idwii ciiiiN t'r>iim willi fiich otln r \villi llic iiiii,-t |irrli(t ciiliiim^s. r,,i(li \v;i.> iit |ir,irr w itli li:^ ii''ij|||)iii- iiiui all the Will Id ; and I am liiiidy |iiT>uad('d that llir irrlv, Icll an Dwcr, !), ;;u. '^i'lit'V wi'i'o .savrd: iiinI tlic pliico of tlicif cxlfciiit' diiiiiicr was, jis spcfdily as |)(issil)l«\ tist'citaiiu'd hy oh- scrvatioii to he in lat. (i:{ :{.')' IH", Ioiilj. H(i- .'}•,»' U'", and it was very pioporly named tlio Jiiii/ of doil's J\fi ra/. On the t'(»u clcaiin^ away it was loniid to he iinnu'diatcly in tlio ctMiter of thf AV'rIcnnic. Tln'v now discovert d that their iVesh water, on the 1th of Septeniher, was sn jLjreiitly rethuod, thai, in tlieir present condition and the situation of tin- sliip, \u)\u' coidd he alfnrded for the piior little ponies which had snrvi\ed the storm; they were ihereforo ol)li:;(Ml to he sacrificed ; their hay, besides, hud been all thrown overlioard in the storm. ( )n till' IJth of Sepleinlier, when they had arrived opposite till! month of the Wa^er Kiver, and between it and Southampton Island, a iiale of wind arose, ami Avith it also the sea; the diilMIriper now made no pro_'- ress, but " remained actually pit(drini: forecastle under, with scarc(dy steerajie way." C)ne alternalive alone re- mained, HU(\ that was to briny tlie ship np. " We found thai the unchors held, altlioui;h the ship was dipping: bovNsprir and forecastle under, and taUiiiy >,fi'eeii seas over nil. Thick-fallinii sleet covtM'ed tiie decks to some inches in depth, and, withal, tho spray froze us it ftdl." To iidd to their aii\i(!ty, two or three; streams of ice, with <1eep. solid pieces Hinoiiii them, wore seen in tho eveii- iiiij to bo driviiiii down upon the ship. '^Fhe nitiht was piercinyly cold, tlm sea washed the; decks fore Hiid afi, constant snow lell, the lower decdv was alloat. the men'.-' liammocs tliorongiily soaked, and the poor fellows could g«'t no I'est. ** Stiver sliall I fiir^'i't tbf> diof\rine*3 uf ihia Umy-t eiiTinu.'i niglit. Our ship piiched dt sutli u rute tliul it Wiie nut iju.-ci- ir till ^ n if titl i' il;iiii;fr. t'nl 1 V-tilir I UlUTCll. ■llcr iVnlil ;i(li (illn r !• with li> lllih'd tli:it of tli«> Al- (i()(l ir'is ly, IfU 11" cxtrfiiit' (>(! l)y t)l)- ■j' ', and '•,s Ml rrii. iiii«'»liiitcly Jlscovcird cr, NViis s(i i)U nml till' ir the ixtdf tlicy wcif I'sidos, hint liid iirrivi'd \ bctwccii iii'ttsf, itiid (' no proii- silc uiidfv. • ult'iit' rc- \\'(> rouiul !is dipjtiii:! II St'ilS tlVt'T OIUC ilicllf:* tVll." T" f ict', with I till? rvcii- » iiiiilit AViis f Hiid fill, tlic tiit'ir.-' loNVs cuuld jdsf Biixiiins at nut ^>i)^ci- r\PT.\i\ (J. F. 7. vox. 1(11 Me 111 stnnd rvrii Itcluw, wliili^ nil dfck wc wcro im;dilt> to Ili.i\»' withullt llii|(hlli: 1>\' rii|ii-s. whirh Wflr ^llrtchrd lioiil s|./'i' tu .-Idr. I lie (hill-.-iiM\\ tlcw ill >iiiiiii'|>, hi'iivs ll.iUfs lii.il \M- ( iiiild Mill \nit\i til wiiidwioil, :ind it liu/r mi ih rk Ut .•i',Mi\r :i jii'it ill di'l'lh. The si'.i iiiiidi' iiici'>>;iiit liirachcs (| I'll' I'lii'i- Jiiid .ill till" -hill, iiiid thi' triii|iiii-;iry \\ aiinlh it L,'a\ i- wliilr it wa-hril over ii^ was iiin^t |iiiii!iilly ihrckt'd liv it.-* al|ii'i>t imiiirdialclv IV<'<'/iir_' on (iiir clntlir*. To tlif^r dis- iiiiiiliii'ts WfTc added tin- hurrililf micn-taiiitv a> to wlirtlicr till' cahlrs wuidd hold iiMtil diivli^'lit. and th<' convictidii also iiiit il thi'V tailed us we sliniild iii-lied tii pieees, liii' wind Idowiiiu' (iiii'i lU t'l the {|iiailei' in w hii li we knew )i;e >lii)re liiu^t lie. AiiailJ. >llinld tln'y eiMlliime to Imld lis, we leared. \>\ t.he >l/i|>"> (•iiiii|»laiiiiiiu' mi iiim Ii rurwai'd. that the hit-- Wfiiild lie tiM'ii n|i, nr that ^lie \SM,ild settle down at l;i r anchors, ii\ iT|iiiw eicd hv -ome nl the Ireiiieiiduij,-. seas wllicll liMI-st nver.'"— I'. Illl), IDI. The liiifi'icjiiio foiitimiiii::. it I'Jiii hctter he iiiiiii:iiM'd tliaii told wliiit kind ot" ni'^lit lliey were dduiiied to pa^-^. '•I never htdield." says ( "ii plain Lyon, ••a ilaiker lli^llt."' \t dciwii on the l.ltli the liest huwer iinehor purted, iind llie '^iilc hlew with siieil terrilii- vidleiiee as to leave littln rea-«oii to expect tliiit the otiicr iitudiors woiild hold lon^:. Ill short, tho prospect w;is now most perilous and pit- lal.le. •• \1 (i \..M. all tinliier duiilii^ mi this p ii liciilaf pdlnr \\('ro III an end. Inr. haviiiL' ri'ceiveil twd d\ eiw lielniin:: seas. Iidtli Illl' III her cii lies we I t at the same itidnieiit. and we w ere left li'l|ili'ss, willidiji am hiirs dr ;my iiieaii> nl' ■~a\in_' mi7>r|\es, >!i iilld the >lii)ie. as we had e\i'rv I'ea-mi ti> expecr. he cldso ..'>'eni. \lld hei'e aLrniil 1 IkhI the liapp;iie-> nf w itne^-^iiijT lii • same i/eiieral t ram |M ill its a^ w a> -h'lwn mi the Is' nf Sep. tiiiihei'. Tln-re was nn diitcrv thai llie (•aliIi-> Wi're ^/mie; hit mv (Viend Mr. .Maniro, witli .Mr. (';irr. the L'tiiine?*. (•;iiiie ,l!l as -iimi a'- thev renivered their 1 'L's. and in the lowest 'v.ii'-pcr intdfiiii'd ine that the cahli's had all pai'led. Tlii'! ^il:|l. ill trendiiiLT to the wind. Ia\ (juile duwii dii her iiiu;iil- -i'l:': and as it iI.m'h Iiecaine e\iilen1 ilia! nnlliiii'j lieli] her, .11! 1 lliat .'•he was(|ii!le h.'lple.-s, einii man iit-tin(ti\ i'l\ tmik ii - -1 ill. 111. while the .-ramen at til" h'a.l-, havid:; -enned t!iriii-el\i's a< well i>. w.is in their puwer. repealed their s 1 -.rl 'liL."*. ei| wli'il dip' pi'e-;i'iTat;mi di'peliileil. willl aS M nil (• iiirr- Ciiujly nie>fn«'(l I i.~, ff ranted n- Ins protection."— i*. 10,'. I0:{. ■ a U2 I M '\ « I >.H I Nl h T' i ,1 I .; ' '/ Kl'i AKCTIC VOVACJKH. Tlu'V Wi'Vf slill, liuwrNtT, ill II \<'|-y iiH'IfilM'linly run- lliliMli, rxiircliii'^ r\ r|-\ iiiniiiciil I o -.1 rikf. Iitnl nut liitviiij tlir It'iist iilnt wlicn- lIli'N liml iiliclii'ird (i|' wliric tlif\ imw wriT ; r\riy inpi' win iiiciilslnl witli a thick ciimi illi: nt icr. llic ilt'cks so (Ircply coNcml witll iVn/.rii sihpw ami tVcr/.iii^ i'l'ii watt'ia^ to iiiiikf il Nciircrly piosililc Im sIiiikI: ami nil liiimU hi-in^ wi-t and liiiH' tVu/rii, withuii' Iiiiuiil; liii'l liny n-lii >liiiM«iit luc si» many liuiirs, "uiii hitiiatinii." >iiy> tlir caiitaiii, " was ihiiiIciimI iiiisi'iiildc m llic «'\tit'iin'." •• III tlif at'tiTinKiM. liaviiiLT well wciLrlirtl in mv niiiid n'i till' (•ircuiii'laiiir'i 1)1' Mill- di-ilri'»rd -iliialinii. | liinii'd t||. hands ii|), and inioi-nird iliriii diat, ha\ini.' imw liwt all hi hiiwrr aiM'hnrs ami , and hrniL.', in ruiis('i|iirrMf. aii.ili i t'l hiln:,' n|i in anv pai't ul' dii' Wricfanc ; hriii;,' cxjinscd i" llir -it.- fit a iiiinnidiiit- tidi'\\a\ ;ind cnnslant ht'iivy LiaJi-, now ia|pidlv >\M'i|iiiii.' ii- hack In tlir mhi" ward, and hrin:.' yrt ahnM" rlulity iniirs tinin Ifi'iml-i' I'.iv w ilh till- -hnrc- IradliiL' tn w hiili \m' wcit iinac<|naintrd ; n .■ riiiii|)i--t n-i'li'--. ami it hciiiL' ini|>i>ssihli' tn nintinm' niul^ i fiail with aii\ dc'jirr nf -ali'ty in ihrsr dark twclvc-hniir iulIi'-. with the tun iil'li-ll r \ |ii'rii lici'd llip cnllM Tin' heat nlV a |ri'--llnrf even ill iniiili i-dfr Wi'lltlirr, I ll.n! ilrtcriniiii'd. in inaUiiiL' .-niithim.'. tn clear tin- iiarrnwM nf tin \\ I Icniuc, alicr V\ llicjl I -hnllld dicidr nil .-iiliif plan Inlnn luTUl'' npiM alinn-." — 1'. iD'i. 7'ln'ir >itiiatinn. imlml. was u liopclt's.tt diic : withmi! Jlhthnis. and with 'i rripplnl ship— (•oiiipasscs which, m stfiid uf i^iiidiiij. niily tMi'-liMl tlimii- wiiat plan cniild li • di'^i-id tn piir-iii- ? 'I'n apprnacli the slinii- was tli> lirst -ifp !n till' (ii'>lriictinii nl'ihr ship, ami in thai f\i'ii'. to land ill a >iinw-('n\ri'i'd. ll'n/iMi, and drsnlatf cnihit i \ . pindiiciii]^ iinlhiiiu i)[ Iniid I'm- man, and di'stitiili' nl hu itiitii hciii'^s, wtiiild hi- fipially and iii)>\itahlv drstnaliofi tn rvi'iy li\inu crfaturn that nii'^ht ha\(' cscaiird I'lncj tin* ship. Twn attcniati\«'s. thnffrnrr. nliK wrrr Idi : t^ithrr tn I tn Im ifniu', they indi\ idiiall} aii>wt'i'c(l that, deprived us Im' ship wa> III" amluus and miicii nf her slnie-, with lli' litlU^ rt'liitiico tu b(5 ijliico(l(«iithe(i)iii|nthses, liu'V iliou^l'i \1 Y 1 \" I CAl'T.MN' lll A', |l(l>sill|l' t" II, witliinit (IMS. " (iiir IsiTuldi' III IV iiiiiiil ;<" tlll-IM'll til' |u-l illl nip licr, llliiili I i'X|Kisril Im IfilVV Llitli- 11 1 1 If XillH. l'|ll|ls(' I'lilV iiiiiilrii ; mil tiiiiH- mill' I -liiMir iiL'li'-, • -liii) (iMilil ithrr. I lii'l lows (it till ail tof (iiii \VI tllMllI wliicli. in- iti cdiild li'- I- WilS till' tllill CM'll'. If Cdlhltl V . Ililti: nf liii- Itlcslriifliixi ajifil iVniu \\f Vf It'll : f SDiitlir lliliU 'I ■ iL^tilllM hot 1(1 li'- |\f(l iis 111" with ill'- tlif l>t' t(» n'tnrii to I'lirjliiiid witli- (iiii liuilicr r|i'lii\ : ;i ((iiii^f \mi> sliiipfti iiccfd (liii;:l\ . 'I'Ih' VdVirjc Mldiiu this rii-tcni citjist ot Ndrlli Aiiicii- r;i li. WHS teased mid haiii|)eied with ilif tidafiii^ III', the Id^'s, mid the ciineiits. which the state dt' his (■■piii|iiissf s :ilsii iiiiide siill iinn'e f inhaniissiiii^. |!iit dt tills liiinissiiii; iiuvi^iit idii, ill the presfnt iiistanre. nulhiii^ iiiMjf need he said, as iidtirnii: tail her dccnrred en the return passa.e that re(|iiires any iidtiee. iinlfss it hf ihi* iiitercMurse they lanl in the lower part dt the \\ flcdnio V. itli a party el l']s(|iiiiiiiiii\. whosf rharaeter. so dillir- f lit t'ldiii that L'eiieially dt" this milil and (|met race, is no iliMihl truly esplaiiied. •• I cdidd lint hut cuiii|iaie t!if hni-,|riiiiis. iiiii->v.lat till'iw(4 \sliM were almiLrsidf , in f X'fllfiit caiiuf-., willi Wf ll-lunii.-liiil ii'iii-lii-ailfd Wfapiiii> and liaiiilMHii'' < lutliliii;. vsilli the [mhiV |)r(p|ilf Wf had -ffii at Siiiitliaiii|it"M l-laiid; llif lattii wi»h ilaii' spf ar-lif ad-, ainisss. and f\fii kiii\fs nl clnpiifd thiit, williniit caiiiif-i. wiMPil. or irnii. and with llnir tfiit-< ami c 'I'llii'S tnll ft' lid|f». \ f t dt' mild maiitifr-. (|iiii'l in >|iifi fi^ ami a< L'ratfl'nl tur kiiiiinf-'< a- thfV Wfif an.xinus tn ifluni it. while lhd IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) /. // ii^. ii -^A K ^ 7a ' 1.0 I.I 1.25 !;:itt IIM I ^i Ilia u U iill.6 '^^ 0%^^ \ ^W '/ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i^ C^r ./: lot ARCTIC vov.\(;i:s. hiMic ; ;iii(l ii!l]i()iiuli nut iiincli iilmvc ail iiicii in IciiL'ld. til:- aiiiiniil"-- ui'IicimI cxprc-'^iiin \va> ailninalilr."" ■ Mr atlds lliat liicy pi'uiiircd a I'l-w IimIi- //•'//•'/ ixdrs wril {^\- rciitc'l. '\"\\r |)a>;sa'^c to llnulaml |)r(i(iiHT(| niittiiiiLl n'lnai'ka- It'c : the (iiipci' arnvcd at I'drtsiiKuitli on the Intli oi' Nov fiiibcr. I'»'i- crew nincli •'viiaustcd liytln' sc\ cnt y ol' the \\<'ai li('i- aiul wa^li of tlw sea oxer the slii|): and tlircc wi'i't' sent to the h(),s|)ital. ('a|)tani liyon tlin^ r.oncduflfs his narrative : •• 'I'llll- riKi- till' jiiurnal of our lIll^iK'crS'.ild rxprdilinn, I'lclnri' I t;iki' li':i\i' cil' iiiv ri':idi'r>. I lio|ii' I iiiaN lie ;i||ii\\ cd tip iiKd\c a li'\v' iil)-ri'\ a'ioM- rc-iiccliiiL' niv ^lli|Mllat(•s, -imiiumi a> widl ii- nliim-.-.. wliu^c condact on all occoidiis wa- mkii a^ to t'lnilli- ihciii to the \\ai'ii.c'>t |irai>i' I can lll•^to\\. I Jii;i\ will] tnilli a--r|-t llml tliiTc iirMT wa- a lia|i|)!i'r linii' coajiiiiniilN tliau that a--i'mlil''d on hoai'd llio (li'i|iri'. \'.;\v\\ Slice liiiLT (lav. and cich escape I'l-oni ilidicuitie-, seenieil to liiiid n- nmre .-li-iaiL'lv 1o::edier; ;ind 1 am prond to ,-.;i\ , tliii diirin.: the wlnli' mI' mo' \o\-ai:e iieillier imin-liinent. enni- filaiie, inir e\eji a di-pnte ol'ans' kind ocenrred aiiioni: ii.-."' — r. 111. Tlic narrative id' this imsiicccssru! voya::(' disphiys a line rxaiiiplf of iiiaiilv rcsohitioii under the inost d;>- fressma diKiciiltit's, and ot' pious resiiinatioi: to the l)i- viiie will, on the ])art (d lioth oMicers and ineii. at a time ■when a fatal crisis appeareil to lie incv itahlc. It is one of the many c ises in whiidi the devoutly ndiL'ions cdiar- aclcr ol" our I'ritish seamen is eiiiinently conspiciKMiv. and wliich ne\('r fails to unard them against despmiden- v\ , ihoiii^h snrroiindeil with dangers and dd'hcnities sncii ;is. to men imacensloiiicd to them, would he apt to cre- ate de-pair. W'lielher. in t he present instance, the cril- iciil ey(» of a thoroiiLihdjrcd scamaM miulil <»f iiiiulit not discover something:; approacdiin^i to indiscretion in con- dnctiiiL: lli*' navii^ation of the slii|) dnriiiL: a dense to::, with comjiasses inactive, or actinu only to deceive, nii- knowini: in what direction the land lay; wliether it was judicious to let u'<» Jill tlie am hors at once — -these are j)oiiits that are to lie decided only l»y nautical men and * 'rill- spirilnl oi-ijiiiil l.llli' ("unirr w;is urr-i'tii'ii !>y ( '.iiit'iiii J. Villi Id till' writ T III tlii- iiMiTiitivi'. iiiid is truly an iii.'riiidiis |iii'ci' I'l i'ar\ iiJ^'. tliuiii;li tlic vvouil (.'iij,Tiiviii^ i.-- I'ar iVuiii iluin:: il ju.-rticL', -^ llr well t.'\- (•niiii'k;i- Idtli III' ■vcnty nl :u|) : :iiiil villi lliii> <])r(l'itiii||. (• ;illnwti| •S, -rallli'll u;i> >urll lr^t^\V. I i|)irl- lin'if „•!■. r,:i<-ii SCi'lin'll tn It ,-il\ . lllll li'lll. cnlil- (Vispliiys ii ItlllSl i- . ill ii t liiii' It is dlH' i(tiis c'liai'- ;|)i('U(>l|v. «j)()llllt'!i- tu's siirii )t to crr- tlir ci'il- mi^lil iiiH 111 ill c'oii- I'llSC toLi. •rive. Uli- lluT it \v;i< tht'si^ ill'' iiifii ainl ,1 !,y ('i.!it:.:tl loils (liccr I'l -tirc, CAi'TAlV C. r. LVOV. 1(5 )0 1)V !i (lirt'cf Uiin\vlc(li.'c ot' all ilic circMiiii'-tiiiifos existing III the tiiiit". 'riiiit which is licrt' to l;c iii>-ci'\cil ii|ii(ii, r>|)fcially hy a l;iii(Uiiiaii. i'^ tin' ciidI. tin- uiilliiirhiii::, llir (tlii'dn'iit (Ifiuraiior ot" tlic iiicii. ami ihc >It'a(ly. iiii- (ll-Illl licil <'nli(llict ut' the nliiccis : tlirx' aiT the .s||l)|r( Is iiiiilci' (•uiisi(i(.'i'ati(»n, and wliicli aii' (Icscrv iiiu ol' tlir 'lii^hfst (lt'L;ifc oi aihiiinit imi anil |»raisc. 'The iliawm^ III lii!> !(>r the chiiicc (if boats. '• two nl" which must iii- culiilily havo swamped tht moment tlirv wcic Icl diiwii into the sea." and thi' cool and orderly manner in wliidi every mail l)roiiL,dit up liis hai; and dressed hiniselt" in his iiest clothes, to take leave ot" this world, are traits prcii- liar in the (diaracter ot J>ritisli seamen, not to he i'oimd in any other class ot" men. and are worthy ot" all admiration. The shi|) is con I mend ei I hy the cajitain lor lierslreiiL;lli, Init condemned tor lier sliii:i,'isli and had sailing.' ipiaiities. She appears, indeeil. to have been utterly unlit to cnii- teiid with this worst ot" aH pnssihle iia\ illations. tlmiiLih she had on imtre than one occasion to contend with the ny seas of the Ai'ctic roiiions, both in the Polar and the Spit/,beri:en seas. But however tit a ship may be to encounter those seas, it certainly is not tittiir.:, when employed oil |)eculiar service, tlnit any ship si oiild b{^ sent into them alone. The smallness ot' her size Is no iibjection. ( )iir old navii^atois were content wi'li barks 1)1 tell, lit'teeii, up to titty tons' burden; but then, as be- liire stated, they wore rai'.'dy, it" ever, sent alone; two or three, and t're(|uently iiiore. t'oniied their e\|)editioiis ii'.' discovery, and the reason is oi)\ioiis ; a sinMJc >hip wrecked in those seas, whose coasts are tiniulaibited bv liiimaii beiiii^s, must entail certain destruction onthelitc! ol' ev( ry creature on board. There yet remains to be Inlil, in the course ot'this narrative, another instance ol" the miraculous escajie ot" a single sliip. sent nearly into the same (p.arter. and tor a similar piirjiose — an over- si::lit wliicli, it is to be earnestly Imped, may ne\e'" ai:aiii be repeaied. The people (»t' Mnnland know the. value ol" their seamen, and never ;L',rud;:e the expeiiso vvhiidi is tiiirly and honestly iiestowcd on her navy, tin; soul of whiidi IS Ih'I" seamen, whose lives, were it only oiii of mere policy, onulit not lieedlessly, or i'rom u inis- takea I'ruuiiliiv, to be endan::ered. t I mT: I I ' I T J: IGG ARCTIC VOYAfJES. f ! I. I'ntv. H. P. rrii]iiitiir, ("(iiiiiiiaiiilir. Jlor.'l'lios. Au^tlll. t I.ifUti.naiit.-'. ClfAPTHIl viir. PARRY'S THIRD VOYAGE, for /hi' T)i<:rorrni of n Xor/li ii-fsf J's of ih,'. i u.v I hav .I.tummI it riirl,, j„ ,.„„., „„„.,. j^^,^^ ^^ _ '■"".■^"''■',■'"7."". ""■ """• I'.Hi.h that 111,. |n..> u\ on.. ,.t Ins aia.lr.tv > .^ilips IS oi rvrnt too .MM-inus tn I„. |i:..h!lv ,liM,o„..l "'■ "'"' ••" .""; ""'"■'•• 'i>'" I '■-Mill 11, „. alon,. ,l,;i„.t',o to li- ''"^^•••^-no,! /,.,,|,, ,1,1 oxi.rtinn. of (■:,,,, ,1,1 [(•,,,;, niaiHlrr] ""I'l"'"''- "".'■. "thrrt-s an! i„r„, on i|,;,t o,ra>i,,„. "_/„/,,/. ihirl/mi, [), .\iii. ('oMMANOKK If p. ir.„.PN,:R sorvo,] as liontot.atit with 1^ rrv n. tho Ah-xatHh't-. a,„| al^o as li.Mit.-.ia.it in I ari-y > vo prcc.Mlnii: voya-os. i,, ;i|| of which lio was roiisaloivd an ahhs artivo. and /oaloiis niXwov. 1 1,, had liH-ndoro workr.l his way to iho rank of .■o.n.nandrr '• lo ( oninian(h-r Hoppnor. wlio,*' savs |>ar''v -has ■"•'•n my constant companion from the u-rv connncnc<«- ""■nt(.t those cntcrprisos. | t\-cl .-v.-rv pos-.ihl.> ohfi-a- """ rvicc "I'd 1(M- Ins a.Kico and assi.stanco on ov.-rv occasion." ' Ln:rTi;,v.\.NT Fostkk is lii^rhly spok.ni of hv Captain I 'in-y - tor th.> various and multiplied hianches of use- In! .sci.'iice to whi.di his attention was at all times di- n'ctvd:" and h,. adds, -our oI)servations upon atmos- Pli'-nc ndractions m liioji latitudes, and on the diurnal variation, and cliani:e of intensitv of tlie ma-Mietic needle iH-ether with Lientenant roster's experiuients with a,! mvarm,,),, prudnliim. have |„.,m communicated t.. and '■''■"I '"•'•."•e the Koyal So,-iety. ||,> was als., lirst lieu- ''■"''"1 "» tlH" ll.-cla. which carried I'arry to Spit/hei-en ;•:; '"^ '<"<"'. q.t to reach the |>ole. Ife accompained luvernii: an.l .Sahinc; in the (Iriper to Spit/I,,., -en and .■'•'•enland in ]s>;;. ,md proved a most useful ami intel- liiicnt assistant in the p.nidiilum ohservations. Hi^ |„.t service was tiiat (.f co-operatiiur with .Mr. IJovd in lev- •■liii- across the Isthmus of Panama, when he wa. 1111- l"rtuniit(dy (h-owned in the Piver ("lia-res. P,v his 'l'':ith the service wiis deprived of one of its most .rs.'fiil, ii''i''. itnd scMMitific naviirafors. and his loss was felt and d*'.-ply lamented l,y all who had the pleasure of his ac- 'l"""itance. His (diaracler. in fact, was estal.lished as iinioiii; the first sci(Mitilic ofticers of his time. Ln:rTi:v\NT .Iamks ('i,\iiM: Poss.— To,, m„,.|i can not be said 111 prai.se of this youii- olficer, who worked 1 ' i d ■■ 1 \ * Nil < if I !< i I I (ImI 4 lf i^ 1 108 AliCTIC VOVAGE.'J. liiiiisrlt'. ciitii-cly liv his own fxrrtioiis. I(» the rriiik of lit'iitciiiiiit. ;iiiil l»y Ills own sclt-limirlit iic(|iiii'(Miit'iits, wliicli rxtriiilfd lo t'vcry (icpiirtmciit iil sciciici', lic^ !iiTi\('(l !it lilt- liii^lit'sl s1c|) ill tlic service (short ut' tlie (liii:) : hilt iiiiirr 1)1' hull hciTJirirr. Lir.rii;\.\.\i' IIokaiio T. Aistin. iifter (listiimuiKKKi.i:v Wi:s'iHopF, midsliipmaii, was iiiado a li«Mi- tcnaiit in 1 ^'^ •,'•'), and rtill continues so, liaviiii; let't tho navy lor a civil employment in the Humane Society. Kowvao Jlian appears on tlu^ list as a captain of 1H4I}, but ho is nut to bo i'uuiiJ uiuuiig tho Arctic voy- agers. PAKRV ri TlllUlJ \()VA(;i:. ll'.i) rnnU of rciiiciitN, I'IKH', lit.' •t t)i' ihi- tinuui-ii- ^iMid iiiid ' ill 1-:;-, aclit. st'ivicc. , .111(1 I'C- iii(lt>l)tt'(l s prtilrs- k; collfc- t'liniislKMl (1 he rc- t lvt»SS lis paid liy ['iciict', ill »us v(jiiiiir [Tiiy, liiis the scr- v's I'ohir (»ss to fio lie fclirl' ill x-ll, ■s lvoss"s :oiiuiiaiid this voy- utciiaiit, inidshi|)- Ic a licu- Ict't tho (cit'ly. iptaiii i»l" •die voy- Ai,t,A.\ .M'Lakkn was a|)i)(tiiilt'il Mii-gfon ol" a >liii) ul" lilC lilU!. W'iM-iAM HviivKV llt»()i'i.K, purser, was the iViciid iiiid a>s()ciatf ()t'('aptaiii I'ari'y, iiiid st'r\('d with iiiiii in till- Alexander in Knss's voyaL^e. and in all tlie three ot' I'liiry. ii iiKist I'aitht'iil and t rii>t Wdil liy tillicer. lie was rewar(hMl tor liis services liy a civil iippointiiieiit in (iiceiiwicli Hospital, where he died, and his widow is now matron oi the ( i reeiiwitdi S(diools. The ships sailed I'roin the Nore on the llMli of May, l^-.'l. the William Harris. ti'an>|)oit. acconipanyiiii^ them. 'Their instiMictions were to make the he^i ol" llieir way to Davis's Strait and cio^s over to Lancaster Sound, and. proceedini; throuuh iJarrow's Siiait. eii- deiuor to maUe, throiiiih Pi'ince Keneiit's Inlei. a pass- ;i::e into the sea wliicdi hounds the continent (of America) (111 its northern coa>t. and thence westward to the I'a- cific. The i-eason assiiined tor this route in the inslriic- ti(jiis is, '• 'j'lie str(»iiji opinion whi(di yon liiive conveNed to IIS in favor ol' the attempt thi'oiii:li Prince Kei:eiit's Inlet ; the conlident liojte which yoii I'xpress that the ice. which, at the period of the year when yon visited die inlet, ohstructed your pas>ai;e. was likely to he re- moved hy circumstances ol' sea>oii and weather within the iiaviiiablc! ])art of the year:" and. it is added, "the CdulideiuM^ whi(di wo are jiistilied in placiiii,^ in your iiiduMneiit and experience (h'termine us to anth(jri/,o and direct you to piirsiu' tlu; coiiise wliii'h yon considi-r the imj.st promising, iiamelv , thronuh J'riiice Keiicnt's Inlet." < )n the IHth of . I line, having reacheil the latit'ide ot" (ill',' , they saw the first iceheru, and I'rcnii that ti r' fell ill with those bodies of ii'e almost daily. At a i)anish hctMement in l)avis'> Strait, calleil l/ievely. they t'oiind LieuttMiant (Iraat, wiio liad been I'lnployed on a survey of the (Ireeiiluiid coast, and reci-ived much civility from him and otlier gentlemen ladonging to the settlement. As soon as the stores and provisions were transhipped, the W^illiam Harris was release(| imd ordertMl to return lionie. (hi leaving tht> harbor the llecia struck on a sunken roc!;. ( )n tho 17th of .Inly tin' ice be^an to close ruuiid the ships. " From this time," I'uny says, •> I !' I ' ! * i I , ,< I I t.i. i 1 ill i H .11 '! ■lili'l I I r 170 ARCi'IC VOYA(;^;^^. " ilic 11I. tlioy had roasoii to rxprcl thoro would scafcolv liavo liocii aii\ ico at this season. 'I'he ohstnictions. however, con- tiiined till tlx' -ill ot" Sepleiiiher. then in latitude 7 1 ' 7 and lonuiliule (ill .'> I . iieiiii; ahont ill) miles to tlu^ N.N.W. ot' the situation in whi(di they cleared the *' |iack" in the year l-l!i. I'^orty miles I'rom hence they pa-seij tliron::li the harrier ol' ice. al'ler an unwea- ried r\erlioii ot' eiL;lit tedious weeks hy the ollicers and men to o\ ercoiiie it . The oMiaordiiiary weallier wdiicli accompanied tlio low tempeiature of Anuiisl is noticed as somethini; re- mai-kal)|e. Il is staled hy I'arry that, of the thirty-one days in that monlh. there was i. ■lually hut one in which they had not a (h'|)osit of snow, sleet, rain, oi" t'oij, diirini:; sinne part of the t weiity-t'oiir ('oiisecutiv(> hours: and the northerly wind. wlTudi is the usual harhinuer ol" a clear, di'y. wholt^some atmosphere. Avas just as thick as any other. And he adds. " tor ttMi weeks in .Inly. Au- gust, and SephMiiher. tlionuh we were constantly walcdi- inu for an opportunity ot' airini; the ships" comi)anies' he(ldiiii; on dei'k. we could only ventui'e to do so once." In their sini^iile throuiih the ice (tt' Davis's Strait and l>artin"s Uay. I'arry latticed the set ot" the cui'rents hy Nvliicdi tJie whole ijodv ot' the ice miuht be actuated. \' \ r ARitv s THiKi) \(iv.\(;i:. 171 w Itlldc, Mini iiir priiplr iirpiiiii. ( llicli lilllst streiiiilli." ' we > 1 1 (• - tliMii iinli- liiy." sli t(t the iiuiist tllllt le (;:; to . |sl|). they hiivt* heeii ^■('Ver. ('Mti- tituih' 7 1 iles to tht^ eiired th(> oin heti('(> an miweu- tl'ieei's iiiid Jiiiied the ■thiiiii; re- hliMy-eiie ill whirh \)iZ dtii'iii^ Diirs ; and iiii:ci' (il ii IS thick as .Inly. Au- tly \val(di- 'oinpaiiies' SI) Diice."' Strait and irreiits l)y actuutt-'d. •• It was niisidiis." he says. " that a dally set tn the sdntli- wai'd iihtaliieij when the wind was noil hei l\ . ditiiTiii^ liniii two or three to ei^ht or ten inili-s per day. accord- iai: to the sti'enuth ol' the hree/e ; hut a northerly eiir- reiit was e(pially apparent when the wind hiew lioni ilie southward." IhiI he ohser\es, as a reiiiarkahle cir- (■iiiii>tance, that a ir( sii rl // set was rre(piently apparent, even against a iVesli hree/(^ hlowinj; iVoiii 'hat (piarter. ( )li tile Idth ol Septeiiiher they e'lteifd that ■' iiia'j- iiiliceiit inlet." Sir .lames Laiicaster's Sound. ;ind timiid ll entirely . as nsiial, tree I'roiii ice, except here and tlierts ;i lieri:. " lloiltln^ alioiit in that solitary uiaiideiir," ot' which these eiioriiions masses are said tocoiivev so siih- liiiie an idea. I'roceedin'i " vexat ioiisly slow" on tlin l.;tli. they had tin' iiiortilication to perceive the sea alieail cDM'ied with yoiinij ice, on entering which r(!coiiise was had to ''sallying." hreakiiii; it with ho;its ahead, and \a- ridiis other eNpe(lieiits. all alike iiielt'ectiial, without ii tVesh and tree hree/.e liirnishiiiL; a constant impetus; ••so that, alter seven or eij^ht hours ot" unsnccessliil la- li(ir in this way, we were oldii^ed to remain as we were, I'airlv and iiiiiiK) ahlv la-set." Thiis tor three da\s they (■iiiitinned stniuiilitiii with the yoiiii<^ ice to little or in* purpose, now and then ^ainiiiii halt" a mile ot' j;ro;iiid to windward in a little "hole" ot" open water, and alter all rathi-r losing izroiind than otherwise, w hile the youni'; ic(5 was every iioiir iiicreasinu in tliicUness. ( )n the 17ih tliey t'oiind themselves driven hack to the c.istward of Admiralty Inlet, the yoniii: ici' ^liH increas- ing in thickness. This was certainly fi most severe trial (if the patience and jierseveraiice ot"('aptaiii i*arry, of ;i (lilt'ereiit kind, hut ('(pially annnyiii'j, as that of •• l'"o\'s ( 'lianiud" and the •• I'ro/.eii Strait." It (Uice occurred to him that as, in crossinii Datlin's j>ay, lie had expended unexpectedly nearly the wliole of tlu^ seas(»ii, and as, under particular circnmstanc'. s, his iiist rnctioiis antlior- 1/i'd him to return to Knuland. it was lii^li time to matve lip his mind, wliich was to him a point speedily decided. •• I could not," he says, '• have a moment's hesitation as to the propriety ot" jmshin^i on as tiir as the jireseiit sea- son would permit, and then yiviiii^ a t'air ti'ial, dnriiii; tho whole of next suuinier, to tho route 1 was directed hy t I f, I 11 "I!! '■iii< i; ! • / 1, ) ' \ T 1T2 akci'k; \(n \t.i;s. 1 1 my iiistnirliuiis tu |miisiu'; iiihI in tliis\ii'\v ( 'niiiiiiiiinlii' I lii|t|iiit'r I 'III I rely cniiciiri't'il. 'Tlir l;ifl i-^. lliiit the sum- Ilirr nr scilsnii \\ lis i|||rilctn her wi' had !iccniii|)lished eiinii^h I'nr niir piiipnse. and llie ships were warped into their winter slatiniis. whicli we had the satislact inn In ihinU Wfie extreiiudy t'avnra- h!e tor an early release in the s|)rini;." Nnlhiii^ reiiiarkali!e was nhserved in the |)as>aLie lhrnni:li Lancaster Sound. A hnat was sent nii slinre in a hay near ('ape W arreiider. I)r. Neill reports, '• The heacli was ci \ereil with iVaunients of tlesh-colnred I'eld- spar, closely studded with red uarnets, i'roin the si/e nt' a pea to Uiii; of a Nvalnut ; the rocU was of gneiss forma- ' ii r \i;kv ri TiiiiM) V(jva(;i:. 17.7 tpiii. iIm' U'rciifiT |);irl 111" It coiiilMisru of l!ii'i:(> |iliitr-i lliick- I;, set with '^iiflifl-.. 'riic -.iiirucr u|' llic ::iuiitli| Wiisjil- llinsl clltlirly (iiM'lfil c'ltlliT Willi sllOW. nr. Ill Illisriiri' nl il. Willi liixiinaiil iciiMlm- iiinss. 'Tlic |);irt\ ^iicrcril- nl III klllllii: lllli'c rcilKJr.'r oill nt" il >lii,i|| licid. Ill^lr I I ii|i ill"' >liiiil 1)11 Ihf si,!,. (ii'ii liilj. III ihirc in- 'Mill liiiit- ill"i| I'lTl ;ih(.\c llir lr\.'| (if ihr vr;i. Lirii I ciiaiil K'n^s |..iiii'l srvrriil |»i('ci'- <.r ciial. wliicii IhiiikmI with ;i clear, h.i-lil llaiiic ; III- saw Iwn liaivs. aiirl killrd uiic i,\' llinii ; a'".! a |ii\, il jiiiir oi liunis. sonir \viii'^li">s ducks, imd s(.\ - ci.il sMciw lniiiliiins. I'ai-iy >ays tlicy uKscivrd a iiiiin- Imt ((I' wliiili s III cNcry |>iiil nj' Lanca-lcr Sound, 'riicy M ivrrvcd. iilso, ti ^icai mauy iiaiw li;i!s and ji Icvv wal- iii-rs III jSanow's Sirail. and thinks they iiiii;|it lia\r seen I'Miiy iiHiif uT I Mil 1 1 I lilt Inr the colli II ma I |)rcs,.ncr of the N nllM^ ice. This hciir; \]\i' f.uir/h winter which I'any was dooni- I'll Ml pass III the I'ld/eii re-ions of the North, he knows imi. he siiys. how he can do heller than iiursiie a nielli- irl similar to lliiil hfiTtofore praciici'd. hy coiiliiiin^ liim- ■^I'll riilher lo ihr |ioiniiii:; out i>\' nwy (/i/i't n m-i ohservcd iMiw iiiid foriiieily. than hy enlerin^ on ii fresh descrip- liiiM e w lio lead, a- well a- to those who (h-<(i-l!ie. the :mcoiiiiI of a w inter passi'd In i|,ese reLdniis can no loiiL"-r he i\iiecte(l to all'.ird the iijIiM-Csl uj' lio\eltv il once Jlos, cs^ed, Mhiiv e>|.ecially ill a station ahvadv dejinealed with tojeralile Li'i;:i-;i|)|iic;i| jnecisioii on oiir niaps, and thus, as it \scre, lyoimh! l|e;n' to (Mil- fn-esiiles ill home, lllile|ii>ndellll\ . ill- i\rfi\, ol till, circunisiaiice, it is ||;o-d to conceixe aiiv one !liiii_' mure like aiioiher than two winters passed in the lii_'h- cr latitudes of the I'liiar re-ions. e\cep| when \ariets- |i;i|,. \^<'w^ lo hi' atl'oi-ded hv iiiterconrs,. uiii, s.niie oiher liraiich of • !lie whole faniils- of man." Winter alter winter, nature liciv assumes an ;ispect, so much Jilike. that ciirsorv ('hserva- l".u ('an scarcely delect ;i .sin-le feature of variety. ' The u iu- ii r i.t more lempei.iie I'liniati's. and even in soinr of no sli-ht ^.•^.•ril\ , is occasion.illy di\ersilied hy a thaw, which at once -i\es \anety and comparative cheerliilness to tjie prospect, r.al here, w hen once the earth is covered. ;dl is drearv ino- iinlonc.us whiteiii'ss — not lliiuely I'or daVs or weeks, hut for lUMiv than half a year to-cther." WhiclieN er way the eve is '"'■'I'''', i' meets a picture «'alculated \n impress iijion the ' an ideji of inanimate stilhies.-. ,jf tlmt inntioiiless tonioi.- 1' -l ^ > f t I i i i f '1 ''!i i 1 )'i -»wr-™^^ 171 Ancrn; voY.\(;r.3. with wliicli iiiir rcdiiiirrt linvr iiutliiiii.' cnnL'f'iiiiil — nl' iiiiy tliiii:/. ill sliMit, liiit lilf. Ill llii- very Mh'iicf tlicjc i.-. :i (li'iidiu'-. willi wliirli a liuiiiiiM spcctiitur a|i|irai> mif of In i i/iiia. 'I'li. |iic>rii«'<' ot' man sfciiis an inlnisinu on iIh- tln-arv hnlitmlr nl this wiiili'iy ilrscit, which cvrii its niitivi; aiiiiiials liavf litia uhil.' Iur.,a"krii. '•—!•. 1(1, 11. Anion:,' tlir winter nrfimiif incuts, ( 'iiptain I'lii'i'y spciiks ill the lii;;h('st trniis of S \ l\ ester's •• wariiiiti^ iippaiii- tiis," to wliicli he uscrilius the coiiiroiMs iinil conveiiien- (•«»s, ami witii them the i:«!neriil heiillh (if tlie seainen. ■whieh exceeded those of any fonner experii'iice : "a <'i)iitri\inice." he says, " ol" \sliich I scarcely know llow to express my a(hnii'ation in ade(|Uiite terms." " 'I'lie aheralinii adopted on this voyai.'e. of placlliir this sto\e ill the verv hotlom nl' the iiold, produced not only th'' etl'cct iiatnrallv to lie rxpcctrd tVom it. ot' iiicreasiiiLr the r;i- pidity ot' the curii lit of warm air, and thus carryiiiir it to all the olVicers' < ahins with less loss nf heat in its passai/e, hut was al>o ai-conipanied hy an advaiifaire scarcely less import- ant. w hi
  • ' coiii|);iiiies, during' seven er eiirlit months of the year. the iiiih'scrihahle conif ii't of nearly twice the space fir their heds, and twice the volume ol' air to lireathe in. It \\vr{[ hcarci'lv lie added how coiiduci\e to whol 'some ventilation, and to the prevention of moi>ture lielow, such an arraimc- iiiciit proved ; suilice it to say that we have never hefore hecn so \\-i't' from moisture, and that 1 can not Imt chielly iittrilmti: to this apparatus the uii|)recedeiited ^'ood state of health wo enjoved during this winter." — V. 11, 1.".*. It is iireatly to he lamented tliat tliis testimony of the irood effeets of ji vorv simple contrivance' had not licci- iittendetl to hefore tlu' inetlicienf, tronhlesome, and e\- petisive (piiK'kerv tipfMirtUus liad been permitted in cer- tiiiii of liei' majesty's ships. 'I'lie prepai'atioiis and iirectuitioniiry iiioasnres ncccs- siiry for seciiriiiif the sliijis occupied ail hands for some time, Jind tliey were not linally settled till ahont the mid- dlo of ( )ctoher. Parry omits no opportnnity of rccoru- iii^Li whiitever may iippcai* to he condiicivo to tlio beiielil of tfctdo or navigation. Thus he slates : mm I'AUUY ri THIRD VOYAUK. 115 fiiiy tliMi.', I ll<';i(||ir-. 'lili:- 'i in Mllltlldf ci| llIlVC tnr ,, n-y speak l^ iippaiii •((iivrnini- ' Srailicti, (Mice : •• a \IIO\V luiw 'laciliL' lli:- tt (inly iIp in;.' ihr ra- in,:/ it to all iissiiL'r, Iml I'ss iiii|inrt. the pcili ( • trr in linii tofcs, L'avi nt" tliird (i! \uii to tla- r tlir \ cat . •(' liif ttirll I. It nrrd vfiitilatiiiii in aiTaiiL,!'- )el(ti'(' \)vr\\ ly attriliiiti ' health \M' liny of the 1 not heel. H, and ex- cel in cei- I'es iiofcs- -; for souit! It the iiiid- of recoiii- thc heiielii •• Latenswi liail thi.'^year heen in reachiiiLT Sir.Tanies J,an- (•;istel'',"» Sili;a(|, lliele umilil sliU have hern tinif inV a "-hill enL'aL'ed in the whair li«hei-\ to have reapiil a tnlrialili' hai-- ^eHt. as we iru't with a nunihir nt' u halc^ in every part nt it. iiiid even MS tar- as thi' entiance nt' I'nrt Hnwen. The ninii- h'r re;,'i>tered alln^'ethfr in nnr /inni'iials is hetween Iwi'iilv and tliirty, hut 1 liave no dnuht tlial nianv nmie than lh>'>e were M'eii, and that a ship <'.\|ires>ly on the |noU-ont tor them would have I'niind tull ncrnpalion lor \trv hoats. Several \\hi( h catue near n-. v.ere ot larire and • pavaide' dinnn- r;oii>."— r. :i(i. AT. 'I'hd ()c(Mipati()ii iiiid diversit n of the seamen's minds. as well lis till' i-emilariiV of their hodily exercise, were not liUely to he itiiatteiided to hy so prudent and e\[M'- lieiiced ii eommaialec as ("aplaiii I'an-y; hut he was (•(.jiially iitteiilivc to what had heeii done on I'oniier voy- ai;es ; iind us tlie same oriieers iind men were anion;; the present ones, n little variety, therefore, was ihoiiuhl to he (lesirahle. '• ( )iir former umiisenieiits."" he su\s. •• heinii; almost worn tlireadl)are. it ri'(|iiired some iii<.'e- iniity to devise any plan that siionld possess the clianii of novelty to recommend it."' '^rii;s purpose was ('(mii- pletely iinswered, however, hy a proposal of ( 'oiiimand- er lloppner to attemjit a viirit and i,'eiiuine humor which would not have disLrraced a more retiiied assenihly ; while the latter iniL'ht not have disdained, and wotdd not have ht>en disu'iaeed Ity, copviii^ the ^ood order, decorum, and inotl'ensive cheei-l'ulne» whicjj our hinnhle nias(|uera(les presented. It does e>pecial cirdit to the dispositions and u'oikI sense of our iwn. that, tlio iL'h all the nnicers entered fully into the s|)irit of tlic>(> aniiiM'- luetits, which took ])laco once a month, alternately en iioard eai'h ship, no instai'.ci> occurred of any thiiiL,' that could in- tertere with the rt.'uMilar discipline, or at all weaken the re- spect ot th(> men toward their .-iiperinrs. Ours were luas- <|ueraly |)iirsiic(|. mikI ot" iiititiitclv morn t'vciitiiiii liciirtit, was tiirnislicd l)y the I't'-fstiiblisliiiiciit ot Scljools, lllldl'l- till' \()llilltill_> .SII|)t'iMI)t»Ml(l('ll(M' ot' Mr. Jlooprr ill till- llrclii, iiiid ol'.NIr. Mo^u in tlii^ i''iiy. '• i'>y till' jiidicioiis /.cil nt' All-. lloo|>cr. tiic Ili-clii's scIkioI u.i> iiiJidc siilis ■rvifiii, iKit iiicrciv lo llic iiiiprovt-mi'iil of tlic nii'ii Ml ic,idiii_' iiiid wriliiii.' (in wiiicli. Ikiwcv cr, tlu'ir |in)_'- ri'ss \\a^ siir|)risjiiL:ly izrratj. Iiat also to ijic rulli\atioii oftlmt iTliu'ioiis ti'i'liiiL' wliicli Mifsx'iitially iiiij troves tin- cliiii-arlcnir a M'aiirin, liy liirni>liiiii: the iiiirlic>t I'lotivcs tor increased ;ii- ti'ii'io'; to ex i-ry otiicr duly. .Nor was tin- i)t'iiclit ( oiitiiicd to till' ciL'lil.'i'ii or t wciily individuals wlioM' want of ^(•||olar-lli|l liriMiL'lit llioni to tlio >rli(iol-lali|('. Imi cxlriidcd ilM'lf to tiic rot ol tijc >lii|i"> coiiipany, niakiiiLr the wliolo lowrr {{nk >H(li a xriii' ot c|n!cl rational oc('n|iation as I nc\cr lict'oi-i- wilno-rd oil hoard a .-lii|i. \nd I do not spoak li^litlv wlirn I cxpros my tlioroiiLrli prrsnasion that to the moral clVfcis tiiii- |irodii(('d iii> Ml the minds of tiic ni.'ii were owin^', in a \rr\ liii:li di'L.'ri ', lln' nuistanl, vet sohrr (■iirciiiilnc.-s. iIm- nniii' Ti'iipird l; I order, iind oven, in xuiii' im'a>ar(', the i'.\- Iraoidoiary .-talr ol hcaltli \\li:i-|i prf\ail(.'d anion:,' u.-> (hiring tli!.> \s iiili'r." — 1'. ."ill. :>\ . TIk^ several ol'liceis had full cmployiucnt diiniio; their winter coiilineiinMit in the \arioiis ohservations to which their attention was to he directed. .^I;,iilletisnl was one of the earliest snhjects alter the erection iind inTani:('- nieiit of the ohsei'viitory oil shore. 'Vht' iiitt!resriii;j; (act. was disco\-ered ol" an iiici'eiise in the variation ot" the iiiairnetic needle, since their Ion lie r visit in 1^1!), Miiioiiiit- in^ to ahoiit niiK' dcLrrees. iianieh-. t'roin 111 ' to I'J.'P'. .V regular series of hourly e\periiiieiits on the inaunetic. intensity was insritiited. hy which was I'oiind a diurnal clianiic of inteiisiiy. exhihitiiii; a rei;nlav inereas(» iVoin the niornin.: to the alteriiooii. and as rejiiilar a decfetise I'roin the al'lernoon to the nKnnin;^:. '• it also iippoafed," says I'any. •■ that the* sun. and, as we had I'eason to h(>- he\(^ the relati\t^ position id" the sun and moon with ref- erence to the magnetic sjihere, had a eonsiderahle in- (hieiice both on the intensity and diurnal variation, al- ihoii'^di the exact laws ((l'lhi> influence may still remain to he d.scuvered." It is to he hoped that tlie result of the ohsei'Mitions that have heeii earryiiiii on for tliree 5''iirs \t\ J-^iiyland and its colonies, and uls:' i;i \:i-ioii:. o, : t ''i liips. hut 'ly morn )||.stllllClit r ..f Mr. i'liry. il's sciidol rut (pf tlic li'ir |M'i);,'- iiii (it'tli.it ;ii';ir1ci-i)|' rented ;il- Hitiiii'd M ■|Mil;ir.-iii|i I'll' In tlic AiT (Irciv IT li('tM|-i' Itiv wllcu •ill .-tlrcls )\viim, iu lllC.-S, til'' v. the ex- US iluriu'' iii(r tlu'ir () which was ()!!(> Ufl'UlliiC- Uiii;j; (act. I of thn aiiioiiiit- to l-J.T'. uaiiiu'lic I (hiiniiil ISC tVnui It'cri'iisc [)oarc(l," m to l)(v vitli rcf- •al)li' iu- itioii. al- I rciiiaui ■(■suit of II' three \ a'";oi,:-, PARRY S THIRD VOVACi:. 177 ii,iri> ot l*;uro]M' Mud as somethiii"^ remark- able. "\Vhlle Lieiiteiiaiits Slierer. Ifoss. and invself were ;id- nill'n.u' the extreme lieinity n\' this plieiH.lnelinn frnlil Ihe ol). ^^'r\atoi-v, we jdl simnll:nie(,ii>ly uttered ;ui e\c|,iiii,-uinn (.(' vii-|ii-i>e at >e<-iiii.' a Id-iudit ray nt' the aiinira sliool suddenly (iiuMiward from the i.'enerai mass i>[ U'jli], t/n,/ /jc/ir,> „ us aii,l 'iir ////'-/. w-hi(h wa> ihere di>lant only three tlioii.suid vards. !i;nl i \\;tiie»ed lhi> pheiiunienon \)y invselt', 1 .-hould ha\<- l"'|'il di>p()>ed t(» receive with cailtioii the exidenee e\eli uf (ay own seti>e> a< to this la-t fact : lint the appearance cmi- \cyiii_r pi-eci.-ely 'lie same idea to three nid i\ idiiaU at once, ■ iN int(Mitly en;,'aLred in looUiiiLT toward the -put. I have no doiii.t that the ray of li^dit actnallv pa>M-d witliin that dis- I:ilice of us.'' — P. (i-J. It is uauecessary to euuiiHM-ate tlie nuuii)er of lunar oI)S(.rvatioiis for the huiuitude. and those i'(n- the latitmh! hy the sun and various stars, hy all the olfieers ; the ae- 'oiiiit of the rates of the chroiioiiK^lers. all of which arn ui\en iu the A ppeiidix, with an account of the IJorealiati ^hiadrupeds and l?irds hy Dr. Kichardsoii. of Hotauy hy I'rolessor Hooker, and of Zoo|)hytes hy Dr. l''l iiiiiiuiiKMl with wli;it nn\it*(y, iti tli(^ oiirly part nt'llu* year, the iTiipprarancf (li'tlii.' sun wji i(Hils»'(l ti>r, Mtiiic. I)V ascfiu'.iiiuu hiuli lull. v.o\ a ^Imip'-i dl' him oil the 'Jd nl' l''('l)ni!iiy : on the i.'jtli he was vi il)!t> at the ohsrrvatory. and at tin? ships on tlio -.'-Jd. ••af- Irr an al)s('ii'M' of out- hiindri'd and t wciity-onc^ days." I'mt it is a loni; timi- allfr tlif sun's rcappt-araiict' thai llic fli'crl ot" ins i-ays, as ti) waniilh. hccniiu's pncepti- hlc ; wfJ'U utter week passes over witli scarcely any rise in the thernioiiieler, except for iin liour or two dnrui^ the (1 av 111 this vj'ar I'arry says the tl leniiomele, did not rise al)i)V(^ till the 1 Itli oT A|)ril, havinji; remained htdow that point ol'the scale for oiii' hundred and thirty- sive (lavs; but he mentions this us the only one. succes instance oftlu^ Uind he had ever known. J' arlies wt re sent from Port Ihtweii to travel hv land on the. sea-coast on each sidi' of the p(»rt. T\ le lirst, liowever, was directed to proceed inland to the eastward under Commander lloi)pner. 'i'liis party returned ni- ter a very fatii;iiiii.u; journey, having with diliiculty trav- eled a deirree and three (piartc 's eastei'ly, in the lat. 7.'! l!)'; hut no appearance ol' sea was ohservcMl in that di- rection: th(^ country consisted of ravines, many of them four or live hundred feet deep, and very i)recipitons. j)urinij; the whole fortniiiiit's excursion scu-i-cidy u patch of vegetation could he seen; u few snow-huntiiiiis and some ivory nulls were all tlu' animals tlu'y met with to enliven this most l)arren and desolate couiitiy. Hares, loxi's, and hears werc^ siJiiriuyly met with; and lh(^ last unimal is not disposed to have any alVection fur mankind. Instances, however, did occur to show th; matt'rnal alfection is not wantniii m this am nial. II hut wa.s us uppureiit in it as in thai of llio walrus described by IJeeclu A sin -\)v;n\ killed in tlu> open water, on our first arrival It I'ort J^oweu, itf iiilfd a strikmi,' instance oi niatern;i[ atli'c- tioii in her an.viely to save her two cubs. Siie niiiibt lierM'lt' iped the bniit, but, would not tbr.-ake her liave easily vouiii:. w bicli he wa- tiiallv ' towiim' olf, bv ailowiui,' llirni to lest on liiM liack, wlien the boat came nenr them. sec- ond similar inslance occiirri'il in the spriiiir, wiicn two cuh> lia\ iiiLT i-'o1 down into a laiu'e crack in the ice. their inollici Uacei I lier>elf before them, so as to secure them from the at- \ . ': \ y, it) lli(^ sun wiis a ^liiiip~.(' was vis- ■-'•J(l. -af- w days." met' tliai I)ric<'|)li- ,■ any ns(( •() (liirni^ «u'l«', dill remained id tliiity- lliL' only •1 1)V land riu' liisl, oast wan I iirncd at- tdty Irav- o laf. ?;; II that di- y of tliciii L'('i|)it(>us. y ii patch itiniis and t with to vitli; and .'{•tioii till' iliow thai I, iiiit wa.s L;riln*(l hy ii-st arrival •rn;tl atVcc- Ldit hiM-M'lt' )i'.>ak<' iii'i' wiiii,' thi'iii u. A scc- i two cuh^ 'ii- nidllicr tini thf at- PAIiRV rf TIIIIM) v<)VA(;f:. 179 1;i(ks nf(.ur ]...,,,, I,., which ^.lic i„i:.rht cnsilv have avuid.'d iicr.-rir; —I'. 7:». Thn two other pai-ties, consisting; of lour men each, nnih'rjhe resjiective cnnimands of Lientenants Sherer a!id Koss. were directi^l i(, travtd. tlie former 1(» the siMithwai'(L and the latter to the northwarth aloni,r tho coast of Prince K.v-ent's Inlet, for thi^ purpose ot'sur- \eynii: it accurattdy. Parry was anxious, also, to as- certain tii(^ stale ol" lh(^ ice to the northward, to .>nal)lo him to form somo jnd'j;iiu>nt as to the prohahle lime of their liheration. 'I'hese parties found the trav.din^ aionu^ sln)re so uood as to enahle them to extend their journeys far heyond tin; points intendi'd. Lieutenant Koss l)i-i)M^dit the wtdcome intelli::ence of ihe sea lieiu"- jHM-feclly open and free; tVom ice at ihe distanceoti wen- ty-two nnles to the northwani of Port P.owep. •• 1)^ whl(di," says I'arry, '• I cttncluded -^ what, naleed, ha'd I'm^ Ixdore heen a matt(u- of prohahle conjeciurt — that. Harrow's Strait was n(»t permanently fro/.eii durini,^ tho winter." I'^rom tin; tops of tho hills ahout Cape York, lieyond whitdi promontory Lieutenant Koss travided, nd iip|)earance of ice could he distinuuished. Lieutenanl Sherer returned to the ships ahout tho sauHi time, havinij; performed a rapid journev as far as 7 J J \ and maUin;^ an accurate surv(>y of the whoK' coast til that distance; and Parry re^rets'that he was not fur- nished with more provisions and a laruer party, to havf? cnahled him to travel round Cape Kater, which is proh- :ilily not far distant from oik; of the nortlKM'u Ls(|uimaux stations, meiitionod in his journal of tin? preccdm-; voy- age. On the PJth of July tlio ico he^an to break up in tho iieiiihhoi-hood, and ahout tho same time the ice whiidi crossed th(» mouth of the harbor detacluMl its(df at an olfl crack, and drifted olf, hjavinir oidy about one mile and a quarter between the ships and the sea. The www w^ere now employed, with the, ^n-eatest (dieerful- ness and alacrity, from seven in tiie morninn till seven in the eveninjr, daily, wluui, on the l!)th, a very wtdcomo slo|) was put to their o|)erations by the entire" separation ol' the (lo(' across the harbor. P>y a renewal of their l:ibor the whole night they succeeded in iM'tting tho \ 1 ' W I \\\\ ?H 11 * 'AM I II ISO ARCTIC VOVA(;r,.'^. ships clri)!', jiiiil iilso. '11 two lioiil's" lowitii:, out to sr;i. jillcr iiii iiiiprisoiiiiiciit of liclnccn iiiiH' mid ten iiioutlis. " ( )ii st;iiiiliiii: 1»» >^«'!i. ^vc siiilfil," siiys I'lirry, "witli .•I li::lit soiitlicily \v!ii(l. towiird tlu' western slioic o|' I'riiice Ke^tMit's Inlet, wliicli it w;is my lirst wish to ^Jiiii, on jiceoiinl of the evident iidviintJiue to be (|(M'i\<'d iVoni coiistinu the sonthecri piii't of that |)ortion of liind I'alied in the eliart ' N'oi-tli Soinei-set.' as t'ai- as it niiuht lead to the ^\estwal■d; wITudi, iVoni our tornier Uiiowl- I'd^e we iiad I'eason to suppose it would do. as tar. al least, as tiie longitude of !•.'> . in ahout tin* |)arallel of 7'J,' , that is. !it ('ape (Jarty."' Hut on his lirst voyage he had been below 7<> (('ape Kater). on tlu^ east eoa>t. :i;id the two shores were nearly parallel to each other: ;nid there the crossitiij; uiiuht not have been ditlicult ; be- sides the eertaintv ol' iieiuii down an eastern coast, in eoniparisoii of takiuii a western on(\ accordinti to ('ap- lain Parry's own showiuir. makes it the more i-emarka- iile he did not (dioose the formei'. It uiiiiht also hiivc heen sup|)oscd that a desire t(» extend the knowledge o|' the easlorn coast uhuht have been a stroui: inducement, even if only to examine the openinij; ot" the Kui-y and liecda Strait into the IJeuenl's Inlet, which Mi'. I\eid's rejxu'l leaves in ratliei' an unsatislactory state, and also to have looked into the (iulf ot' Akkoole(\ whicdi is de- scribed by the hlscpiimaiix lady. i'arry, however, had d(»ubtless jTood I'casoiis Tor his idioice. oiu' of which was the appai'ent lendencv to the Avestward of the shore ot" Xoi'th Somerset. M'hat he had W(dl wei<;lied the case appears by his own showini:: •• 1 shall liist mention (be ,-ays) ;i cirtunislinicc wlilcb li:.-- ]iarlicularlv forced itself upon mv iii>tice ni llie course ot oni- various allenipts to pcMieli'ate thmuLdi die ice in these reLjion^, which is, lliat the eastern coast ot any portion of land. nv. what is the same tliiuL:, the western sides ot seas oi' inlets, haviuir a tcndeiicv at all a|ipi'o;icliiiiLr to north and south, are, at a L'iMMi season of the vear, i^cnerally more enciunhered with ice than the shores with an opposite asjiect. The lour followini: instances (be continues) niav he adduced in illus- Iratiiin of this fact, and can nut hut appear soniew hat strikliiir when considered in viewiui: a :uap wliicii exhibits the rela- tive position ol the shores in lj;;..•^^tinn." — V. 17l). The four instances he r (it (Mir ■I- li'i,M. :' l;iii(l, (11', or inlets, siiiilli, arc, I'Uinliereil '{"lie liiur (I ill illiis- at striking' - the rela- OWIl, Miul r.Miiiv rf TUii!!) \()VA(;i:. 181 ailiiiitteil to he as he says. |'"iist. in th,. .Vorih.-Mi Sea, tl"l'i hit. Cil to ,-(! . hiiliiMled on thr ravt hv LaplaiKl iimi S|»it/,hfr,ueii, and on the west hy ( i rre'iiland. the, whole of the latter coast is hloekcd iij) hy i,-,- tliio'iiufi- (iiit the siiniiner. so as to make it at least a matter uHio easy enterprise to approach it. wiiile tiie navigation of the eastern portion of that sea is aiiniialK and without (lilticulty performed hy whalers and others. The second instance is eijiially w ell known in tin- nav- igation of Davis's Strait, whicdi, tr.,iu ahoiit Kesolution Maud in (il,] , to the parallel of 7u , is inaccessihl,. as late as the month of Aui:iist, while the sea is op,.|i im the eastern side of the strait (the //v.v/, /•// ciast of (iiccii- laiid) many weeks lielnre that time. 'I"h<' third he mentions is his own case, when coustiiK. llie east.'ru shore of .Mtdville Peninsula, on his lii'si vo\" ii;:e. so loaded with ice as to make tho naviizatiun dilficult and datiiicroiis. 'I'he toiirtli instance mentioned hv Parrv is the easf- eiii side of l-'nx's ( 'liaiinel. where. tVoin thiif navii;at«\r*s acc.Miiit in l(i:;i, and that of r.allin in Kii:,. •• us linni our own ohscrvation," tht>re is little or no ice diiriim the sum- mer season ; hut he miiilit also have added tlnn the east- • •rn coast ot' Southamptoi. Uhmd appears to he alwavs choked with ice. 'i'he foiirt!) and last instance of the same kind. •• wliich." says I'arry, "I sjiull mention, is that of I'rince Keo,.,,t\s Inler. and of which the events of this and a former voy- ;i::e fui'nish too striking a proof, the ice appearinj; alwavs to cliiiii to the western shore in a wyy remarkahle man- ner, wliile the opposite coast is '•oiiip natively f.vo tVoiu it."' And a iiftli, on account of tlie accumuhitiou of ico, may he ad(h'd t.) the Hst, hy mentioiiiiiu the southeril imd eastern coast of Mtdville Island, whose sliores ap- J''-arto he the receptacle of all tlu" ice tlint is di'iven east- ward from the western sea. of which it is supposed to iic tlie outermost harrier island ; at least Sir.lohn I'lank- lin. from tlie view h,. hud on the southern coast, thinks it to he so. ( 'aptain I'any is not a man to act hastily or indiscreet- ly, and it would appear that the prefereii"ce iiiven to tliu r: :' i 'I' > I t ■ ',* 'h !1 i ^ ^rmi ill 182 AUf'TIC VOYAGK:^. w«>st('ni roiist WHS iiillii('iicc(l. piirily iit 'cfist. hy ati nv- fl(Mit dt'sift' nt' iicijirriiiu iui Jicccssioti 1(» the t(t'(»iii-ii|)lii- c;il l\ii(»\vlc(|'_M' of ;i sirait or iiiirt wliicli lii' liiid rrasoii to l»('lic\«' woiilil ciMKliict him into tiic I'olar Sra, tliroimli whicli liti coiiccivcil till- soiii:lit-l'oi' piissjiuf to tilt' Pacif- ic, coiiM best !)(' iiiailc : for lie says: " It was tli;- m-n- «iral ffcliini !i' tl'i^ |)('ri(Ml (-JHli of July) aiuoii':; lis, that; the voyaiio had hut now coiMiiHMKM'd. Tho lahors ol' a had siimiiici', and the ti'(hiiin ot' a Ioii upon the beach. The llecla and Fury continued both aground, the latter, by lloppner's report, so severe- ly " nii)ped" and strained as to leak a good deal, and "^hat she was heavily pressed l)oth upon the ground and against: t(i(! huge mass of ice. IJoth ships, however, got otf at high water: but on the night of the second of August }h(! ice once more forced the Fury on shore, and the iiecia Jiarrowly escaped. "1 rowed on board tho Fury," says Parry, "and !'/i . :| t ' 'i;- • 1 IN I AK( Tii; \nYA(;r:r^. fiiiiml I'diii' |miiii|is cnii^laiilly L'liir^ tn lscc|i llic sli |) t'l Cf', icid ( 'uiiiiiiiiiiilci' I l(ip|MiiT. lii> (illicci^ iiiiii iiirii, iiliiiKs;, rxliiiiisliMl with the iiici ssinil liilmi' of llic hisl ciiilll-iiiiil- Incly Ikmii's." 'I'lir two coiniiiiiiKlris set oiil in a Itoa; tn siii'\cy till' slioir to tlic soul liw ai'd, in x'iiicl) ol' a place ^^ll»•|•(' lilt' l-'iiiy, nnal)!t' to iirocfcd an_\' tai'tlicr witlioht rt'|)airs. inij^lit lie hove down, iiiinons as sncli a nrccsslty most l»('. At aliont a mile rarllin- down tlicy IcMUid a place wliri'c tlnco ^roiimlril masses ol' ice liail thlt'c to loin" latlionis \\ ati'i' \\ itliin tlicni. and wliicli, \\ it li the as- sistance (daft, niiulit aliord soinetliinu like >hellei'. (hi I'nlurniii^. the ice had closed in, so as not only to pi-eveiit tlii'ir moving, hut that the smallest external pre>snre nnisf, ine\ital)ly lofce them a>liore. neither ship having moro than two teet ol" water to s|)ai'e. They wcic, howi'ver, soon relieved, and lioth slii|)s enabled to proceed to tho place o|"th(> three her^s. where the tormation ot a hasin was commenced, and completed hy the Idth ol' Aii^nsl ; all the l'"nry"s stores. pro\isions, and other articles were landed, and she was ho\c down on the l^th. A uale of A\ ind, Ine.sever. destroyed the lieriis. and made it necf -- sary lor hoth ships to he towed out into the sea, tir. ralli- tl, this mdortiniate ship was auain ^vu opiiiion." says i*arry, •• l)einr\in!j, tht< IJecIa mduirt, it was Avitli exti'i'ine pain and regret that I made the siiiiial for the Kury's ol'ficers and men to he sent for their clothes, most ol" which ha I i)een put on slatre with the stores." The incessiMit la'tor. the constant state of anxiety, and tin; tVe(|uent luid imminent danger into wlu'jli tin.; rAUItV ri THIRD V()VAi;i: 183 lit 11 >]\.\} t"i('f?, II, itlniiivL i.:iil-;ii:(l- a Itiiiii III il' a |i!;ii'(' !• \\ itliui.t lirct'ss.!y ,' tiiuiid a I tlirt'c 111 h till- iis- ll.T. Oil I) |)i('vc;it <\\rv iiiKst, lllU IlKH'O liowt'vrr, ni to tl:u «it" a liasin Aiiiiusl ; cU's well' A uiiN' lit" it in'cfs- 1, or. ratli- iiic -n-^i slate ot" lirr till- m't 1h'!- )!aci' ol -it'll', and lip."' A iiiiaiidcr )ii •• tlia! l-'iirv :"' (iitiniitMl 1 tVcliii;; liicli Jil- r, it was siiiiial i'or clotlics, Nlt)r('s."" anxiety, iii'jli tti<.; siii'viviiiii sliip was tlu'own. in tli.' atteiiipts to save lier (iiiiiraile, wliicii wert^ coiil iiiiied l'ui- li\e-aiid-t went y (la\s, dotroyeil every reasoliaMe e\|iectalloii liitlieilo clierislied (if the iilliiiiate aecoiiiplislniieiit ol'tliis olijeet. '• I was tlieiHlore,"' says I'arry, " fednced to tlie only reiiiaiiniiu conclusion that il was my iliity, under all the ciicnnistances of the ciise, to return to i'lniiland, in com- pliance with the plain tenor of my instructions. A.-t siMiii as tile lioats were hoi>led up, therelore. and the iiiichor stowed, the ship's iiead was put to the norlh- ca>t\vard, with ii liyht aii' oil' the IhikI, in order to <:iiin an olliiiii lielore the ice should a^aiii set iii-shore." A hree/e spriiijiinu U|) on llit^ •J7th I'ldiii the north- ward, imiiieiliate advantai^e was taken o'' il to stretch (i\er to the eastern siiore ol' I'l'ince Kei^eiil's Inlet, \sliich was done with scarcely any oll^tl■llctioll from ice, iilid the lle(da eiiti'red Neill's llai'lior (a little to the sniitliward ol' Port l>owen) in order to prepare lier (iiiiiplelely lor crossiiiii; the Athntic. Ilerif one man, .liihn I'aiies, seaman of th(! l''iiry, departed this life, liavinu heeii for several months affected with a scrotu- liiiis disorder, tiie only case wiiich proved fatal in either slii|). All heiii^^ I'eady. and the water clear of ice, the ( fechi weiuhed, and stood out to sea on the last day ol' Aiii:nst. On the first of Sejitemher she entered Harrow's Strait, tiie sea tln-re perfectly open, hy which they wt-re ena- bled to hear away t(» iIk.' eastward. In crossini: Liin- caster Sound they ohserved a iintre than usual rpiantily (if icebergs, heiiij:; in pro|)orlion of at least four to one lliat they liad ever before observey mad(> Mould I lead, near tlio northwest end of the ( )rkiiey l>!aiids. ("aptaiii I'arry landed at Peterhead on the I'Jth. jind arriveil at the Admir.dtv on the Kith ; the lietda a.t Sheerness (Mi the /^ \ t I i> ' ! ! II 18G AIK.'TrC VOYA(.r,??. *00lli <»r OctoIxT. iiml WHS paid oil" ill A\'nnl\vic1i on tin, iJl >I ol* Novciiilicr. 'I'liis |ii>t iitlrmitl lor llic (lix'dv cry ol" n iioi tliwcsi ])nssj|^o, it miisl he ;i(lMiitIt'il. is llio Iciist siicccssriil dj' tlio tlii'oo thai ('aptaiii I'any has now iiiadr, not inoirlv ns !(» any inlorniiition iTuardinij; tlio passam', Imt as to liiiy rxtcnsion of <^t'o^iaplii( a! kiiowlrduf or ol" natnral hist oiv ()rall iho Arctic conntrics visited hy hiin. tl lo two shores ot" Princt' l\c<;cnt's Irdct are the most naked nnd liarren, tlie most dreary and desolate, that ha\if heeti seen, n(»t excepting even iMelville Island — not: merely desolat(^ ot" human hj'in^s, hnt almost de|>rive(l, also, of all animal and venetahle life: a ulouniv, sad, and niidancholv land. We have scarcelv saNs r arrv " ever visited a coast on whi(di so littlt* of animal lite <»ccnrs. I'oi" days touether only one or two seals, a sin- gle sea-ln)rse, and now and then ii llock of ducks, vvero seeti." An exception, however, occm'red in the nnin- herless KittiwuKes tlyiiiii ahont, and some hiindieds of Avliiie whales sporting ahont the |)lac(^ where the Fnry >\ as aliandoiied. The transient view which was taken of Prince lle- i:ent\s sh(»res on the tirst voyaije was f'avorahle l^noniiil to im|)ress on the mind of I'arry, on the failnre of liis s(>cond voyage, that to get lairly into the Polar Sea, " tln-ro is no knoioi openinii whiidi seems te ])resent itself so tavorahly t"or this jinrpose as I'rince Ke^ent's Jidet. And ho I'l'ix'ats, in. the voyage now under con- si(hMiitioii, ''to that point, therefore, I can, in the pre ont slate of our kno\vl(Mlge, have no hesitation in si ill n'conimending that any fntni'e attempt should he di- ri'ctiMJ." His advic(> was followed, and a second ship was hd't hehind. A third, it is to he hoped, will never again attempt this vile inlet, even althougli it has ; >\:-r) heen ascertained, trom another (piart(M", that its waters do communicjite with the western portion of the i'olar Sea ; su(di communication, however, gives no encour- ftgement for ships of any si/.e to make tlie trial of a ])assai:e into tlii> Polar Sea hy this route ; hut more of this lu'reat'ter. An in(htt"ereut jierson, who has hut cartdessiv alnticed ovor the tlireo ex[)cditioiis, or unuther who has s;iidi<'d rAUiiv s riiiRn voyack. 187 v^ ^ '^ i:' (iml tiilscii tin iiifriTst ill ilir siilijt'ct. wiiild iiiiKt |)nil)ii- My niliir toil (liKciciit u|)iiiin)i JVoiii ('iiptiiiii I 'iiiTV. aiiif 111' (ii>|)(is('(| In think tliiit. ill iiiiy I'iirtlicr scuicli fur ji miltliwcst l:H>*siim', tlio Slniit ol' the l''liry iind llrr|;i iiiiil till- I'liiMr Kt'i^cnt's Inlet slidiild rijuiilly In' iivftidcd. Inc. Iciidiii:,' into oiic anutlier, tliry iiiii>' In- (■(nisidcrcrl n> (iiic mill till' siiinc tiling, and aliUi^ uiitiivonildc fu sain ii;i\ i^'iitiiin. 'Tin' addiliunal rncoiirauniirnf wliicli Puny siiys lias hct'ii airordcd liy tln^ liivoralilc a|)|)i'Hiaiicrs ol" ;i iui\ iLiahli' sea iicai' the soiitliwi'sttTii cxlrcniitv of rniicr l\CL,'riit's Inlet, ii' it had any existence he. oiiil ;i|i|)eari!nces, iiiiiilif ceilainly lead to the coiicliisio;! that tile iiorthein coast of America could he approached hy thiit route ; but neither l*ariy at this time, nor indeed iiiiy one, heini; at all a\vare ol" what the \meri;;an coast cnii.sisted ol", with its sea encumltered with ice and isi- iimls, ami navigable only hy hoats or canoes, could havo liieii of )i Very dilfereiit opinion. l-'ianUrin and Kich- iijiison, Dease and Simpson, liiive now fully aci|iiainte(l ii< with llie nature* of tliiit const. It is true it is ii cu/i- tniudi/s coast from tlie bottom of IJ event's Inlet, and llierefore falls ill with the settled opinion of ('a|)laiii i'arry, who says "lie. is \nnn) than ever impr(>ssed with the belief that tin* only way in whi(di n ship can, with tdlerable certuiiify, succeed in peiietrutinj; any coiisider- ;ilile distance, is by watching the o|)eiiin^s occasionally piiidiiced by winds and tides between a body of ico when detaclied and movable, and somo land rotilluuo'is ill th{^ same direction." This passage was writton on tlie second voyaue, and remains, lii> says, wholly imaltei-ed in the present, which is the more remarUabbs after the constant and imminent dimmer lo the two ships, and the total loss of oik* of tluiin, w'hilo struizi^liiiii; to make way iilon.y; continuous land, b(*twcon which and masses of ic(\ always in mo- tion, they woro to makt* their pro<;ress. It is din'icult lo iina^ine liow* ii ship at aii'.dior, or loos(.s j)lacod neai' the shore on which lur.uo masses of ico aro thrown, ca- pi'iciously it may be said, for it is never known to what point they may bo directt.'d, can ))ossib|y escape destruc- tion, especially anioii,:jj straits and narrow i)assai;es be- tween isluuds. Supposu u person of ordinary ii tcllcct ' I ! H W ■.•II ';?'■ I , I 1 MS AlUJ'p' vov.\(;i:h. sliMiild III' tdlil, MS ( '.'iptiiiti I'.-in-v will It'll liiiii, tli;it (liiiii!. tilt' tiiiir his .s|ii|)> wfi't' iiiiuli' \n>\ till tin' il iiiL:t'ii>.-, cmist >vlii(;li liiis licni spoken ol. "llir icf was M'itiii_ tn ill)' MMi'hwui'd, iiiiil sdiiirtiiiit's at it nipid I'Utc, lull hrvfii (lays iiiit (il every ten," Wctiild ii(»t siicli )l |)er>.iii iiatinallv ask, why \\a> ail\iintaL;e not taken ol snch an jinxilimy wln-n uoin^ in the n^ht dnection .' < 'u|)taiii Tany has replied to siirh a (pn'stion. " On MlllMd'ollS nccil^jnns llie >lli|)S Mlil'llt ei|in iiti\i , it nut ahsolule .-.ecin'il'.', uhrie ll;e liuldin,' tlii-ni on ii;i- iici'n prelericd, tlionL'li attendi'd with iioin'l\ imd innninrnt penl. 'I'llis was |HC(i>elv llie tii>e on the |iir>enl oi cii-ii ill ; tlic hliips ini^'lit certainly iiasr hfi'n |Hi-lifd inin llie ik of heiim' forcrd on >lioie; but \shcir tliey wmtld lia\i l)een drifted, and wlim- tlicv wonid have lieni ;i:.'ain di^iMi j.':iL.'cd from the ice, or at liherty to liiko iidvantaL'o of die nc «'a>ion;il o|ir!iiiiL.'s in-shoi-c (l>v which alone the naviu'ation u\ tllcM' se;is is to l»e |ierl'olliicd with anv deirrer of certainty), J helieve il ini|to.»il)le lor aiis one to Imiiii the nio.>t di>t;iM'. i(le:i. '•—!'. I i:;. It will, perhaps, he eonsid"red indisei-eet in a land>- man to cpiestion the opinion of tnie of such ureal nauti- cal skill, and so well e\|)erieneeil in the navigation of seas hampered with iee. whose e\ei'|i(»ns have heen so honorahle to himself and sali>i"ar'tory to his emploxers; hnt he is of too liheral a nature to take amiss, on a mai- ler of fact, what is well na'aiit. however it. may ddli'r iVom his own opinion. I'idly persuaded tliat lutne can rise from the perusal (d' his "Northern \'oyai:<'s" with- onl heiny impressed with u decided eonviftion that his merits as an ollicer ami scientific iiaviuator are of the highest onUn- ; that his talents ai'e not eoiilined to his ))rofessi(nial duties, hnt that the I'esoiirces of his mind are e(pial to the most ardiKUis situations, and fertile in I'xpedieiits under every cireuiiistaiice. however dillienlt, (laiiiieroiis, or unexpected — sindi a man may safely ven- ture, not merely to t(»lerale. hut even to iii\ ite ci-itieism, when candidly, ll.ule^tly. and faithl'iilly ol'fered. Tai' ry"s lieart still continues to clin^ to the aeeonii)lishiiieiit of a northwest passage, ami most nnd(>uhtedly would put in practice smdi measures as, in his opiifuni and expert- a I'M'.uv ri Tiiiitn vovacf;. ISO •f. Mm , iii'i<. lit' cotisiili-rs iiiMst likely to iiftiiiii tliiif uli|<'c >;i\ ■> : •• I I. I I (1 mill lent thill liir iiiiilci tukiiiL'. if it lir ilrrinril ad- •,,«,il.lc at aiiv tiitinf tiiiir In |iiir>iir it, uill iiiif day or ntlicr !„■ ariniiiiili-iii'd ; |li|-. M-tliiiu: a>idr tin- aci'ldciit- to uliicli. tiniii tlifir \rrv iiatiirc, >inli altcmpN iiiiiii.'lit ,111 iirsfi' i.'nai'il ajaiiist imr liiiiiiaii |Mi\vfi- cnii, nil, I can Mnt li ii l)clif\<' it III In- ail fiit<'r|>i-iM' well williiii tin' icasdiiahltf mii> III' |)ra( licaiiility. It may lir tried oltni. and dltcii liiil, \,Iaiu'cs iiiiist In- ( iiiiiiiiiM'd liii' its a(coiii|tli>lniii'iil : Imt 1 Uriirvf. iir\ crtlic- ,. -.. llial it ;r^// iiltimali'ly Wr ai((iiii|ili-lH'd." — I'. I:! I. Ili."). Ill' tjiics nil t(» siiy. " I titii tiiiicli inistiiUt'ii iiidrcd it' till' Hurt llW ••>l |)a>>iiut' rvcf licroiiio tlie lillsillcsH ui il >iiij:lf ^mllllll■|•: iiuy. I ladirvc that iiiitlniiu Imt si cuiiciii-- M'liei' III" \('|-y t'ii\ofiil)|r ciffiliiistaiici'S is liUrly r\('\\ to iiiakr II siiiulf ivi'ihr in tlif icf siit'licifiit for its accoiii- |,ri-|iiiiciil. lint this is no iifiiMiiifiit aL'iiiiist the possi- 'i,lit\ of liiiiil siicccns ; loi- we now know ihnt ii wiiitcf in ill.' KM' iii;iv lit' |iu>st'd not only in sal'i'ty, Imt in hfiiltli ;iiid coinfoft." This is \ry\ tnif, iit loiist in his own pailicnliif ciist'. who liiid so many rt'soiifccs at his coni- iiiaiid : iiiid lit) iilijcction liiii lit' niist'tl cm the fitliritioniil '■S|i('iisi' in woar and tcai'. in |)ro\i-.ioiis and stttrcs. iiiid in tilt' doulilt' pay ttf tillict'fs uiid iiii'ii, cxft'iit hy that jiaiticniiif '-'ass ot" pcfstms known hy tlif iianic ofiitilita- nniis; the lilx'iiil-niitidcd would not considci-tht' inn-eased expense thrown away when the honor of the iiatit)ii. tlit^ interests of seienee. the impro\ t'lneiit of niivii;atioii, iind till' eiii|)loyiiient of tmr rising otlieers and liest seamen, are the objects eont empliited. While on this point, it is too reiiifirkiilile ti circiiinsttmee to lie omitteil, that none tif onr early iiiiviiiators in the I'olar re, 10, .".o. ;mil down to l')tons. Parry lakes ticctisioii to liestow a well- di'sei'ved teslimoiiy to the valiiiihle, iierseverinjj;, and ex- traordinary laliors of these men. •• I >liniilil lie diilliLT liilt illljifiti'ct justice to the IllellMrv of tlir-e e.xtra nidi nary men, as well as to my own seii>e ot their merits, if I pei-iiiitted llie present o[i[iortuiiity to pass witlioiiL , I I M ■ # Ml lliO MICTIC VOYAGES. ofTcriii!! a still more oxplicit niul decided t(^stiiiinny to tlic vul- lie (it their lalxirs. 'I'lie ;ic;((iiiut.-> iit il iuImiii. ISalliii, and Di- vis (and lif>t of all, I' r()l)i>|jer) ai'c llic jirodiictidus (irmni nf liM coiiiiiinii stamp, 'i'liev evidently relate lliiiiL's jii-it as they haw llieni. dv.fllin;; on such iia'itical and liydi-nLriapliieal nn- tices •,\:., even at tliis dav. aie valuable to any seaman i/ninir over the same •rrniind, and deseribinir every appeai'ance nt nature, whether ou the land, the sea, or tlii' ice, with a t\i-- ^Mce ot iiiilhruhiess which run alone, pcrlia[»s, lie didy apjiif- cialed hy those who succeed them in the same re;,Moiis and under similar circum>tances. The ^'eneral outline of the lands they discovered was laid down l)y themselves with sue li •'xti'aordinary ]irecisioii, even in lon;,'itude, as scarcely to n-- <)uire correction in modern times; of winch jiict the olde>l maps now extant of liatlin's J5ay and the Straits of JIudsna and Davis, constructed from the ori:,'inal materials, will alliird .siitlicient ])ro(»f. The same accuracy is observable in their accctunts of the tides, sonndinirs, antl bearintrs, phenomena in which the la[)se of "JOU years can have \vi-ou:;ht but little fhaiiue. It is, indeed, impossible for any one personally ac- (|nainted with the plienoiuenii of the icy seas lo penise the l)lain and impretendin^ narratives of Uiese navigators 'Aitli- »)Ut recoL'iiizinu in almost every event they relate some cir- cumstance familiar to liisown recollt.'clionand experience, and ineelin:,' widi jnnnl»erless remarks which bear most nnecpiiv- ocally aI)out them the im])ress of truth. " \\'hile thus doimr justice to the faithfulness and accuracy with which they recorded their discovi'ries, one can not le^s admire the intre|>id!ty, perseveraiu . , and skill with which. inade(|uately furnished as they \ver(>, those discoveries w.'re ellected, and every dilHcidty anil dani,a'r braved, 'i'hat any man, in a single frail vess(d of live-and-twenty tons, ill iimiid in mitst respeets, and wholly improvided for wintering, hav- ing to contend with a thousand real diUlcullies, as well as with inimberless imaginary ones, which the superstitions then existing among sailor woidd not fail to (cajure u|i — that anv man, mider such i ircmnstances, .should, two hun- dred years ago, iiave ])ersevere[ of iliidxiu , will ;iImm(1 )li' ill tlicir I'lioiiiciia ill t ])Ht littli; rsonally ac- jiiTU.-r tlir :ator.s wiih- ' sonic cir- ■rifucc, and st iinc(|iiiv- 1(1 acciiracv 'aii not Ic-^s .itli wliicli, ■('(•il\S \\,T(J 'J'liat any IS, ill t()iiiiil (•rin,u% Iia\- as Well as ij)('rsti!iiii!s ajurt! up — , two hiiii- ,' what our out 1(J cic- )U llie Olio 3 other; of I who ])cr- isidcr how II ill goiii^' [ the navi- • Ht(juaiiit- ancp witli all its diHicnllifs nnd all its ]iivrario!isnf'>s, tlio lii:.';irr lia\t> oiir adniii-atiou and rcspoct liccii raised for those who wi'iil hrfiii-f us in IIh'sc ciitcriiriscs. rcrsov oriiiL: ill (i'tlicultv, iinappallcd by daimi-r, and palicnt undci- ili>tri'ss, tiii'V scaicclv ever u.-o "the laiii_'iiai:i' of coniiilainl, much Irs.s tliai of despair; and sonietinn-s. when all human hope seems at its lowe.-t elil), they furni.-h ihe iiio>t lieaulihd examples of that ilrm reliaiic(' on a merciful and superintendinir I'rovi- (Icneo wiiich is the only rational source of true fortitude in man. (Jl'teii. with tlieii- narratives impressed upon my mind, and surrounded hy the very diilicultii's which they in their frail and inellici(Mit biirks undauntedly encountered and over- came, have I been tempted to exclaim, with all the enthusi- asm of I'urchas, *IIow shall I admin* your heroicke couraire, ve niai-ine worthies, beyond names of worthinessl' " — 1'. ll'A, This is tho thifd and hist attcniiit of Cuiitiiin Parry to discover a iiorthwivst passage from th(^ Atlautie to tho I'acific, but it is by no means his last attempt at I'olar discovery; it has, in fart, been f()llo\ve(l up with an en- terprise not mort^ novel than perilous — an attempt to ap- proiich the? North Pole, in which ho will atraiu appear, in the jiresent narrative, in that bold and fearless charac- ter, whi(;ii, if 't fail -A' coniplet(^ success, will at least most luiquestionably have deserved it. it may not be iiniiss, in closini^ thv, narrative of this voyaue, to insert a few desultory remarks cliielly lVoi'» tlie Appendix. Duriiiij; tlie winter months inwhiclitho ships wen^ shut up in JJowen's Harbor, tlio respectivo ollicers employed tluMiiselves in collecting and arraiiiiing the oliservatioiis that were made in tiie com-se of tho voyaue,* down to thi^ period of ' their release, a very hriid" extract from which must hero serve. It is almost luuiecessary to say that al] astronomical ohsorvatioiis connected with naviiiiition were strictly attended to by the comieander of the expedition and his colleaiziie Ilopj)- iier, by Lier tenants Foster, Sherer, Rnss. and by Mr. Hooper, as observations for determining the longitnde: l')y occultations of fixed stars. iVy lixed stars o.nd the Moon — Fester. * Then' i.^ mi A]ipPTi(li\' in tlm HiH'oml VciyM^c : tlio f'(>i',.('ti(iiH of nat- unil hi^■tury, laid ccrlaiu ul' Ihc ub.-crvatiuui, iirc included in the jirus.. iit ' I 'I ' n ! i i-:rrm ill 102 /.UCTIC VOYAGErJ. n ,; Tiy transit (iftlic Mrio,) — I'osfcr. i^v .hi|iitri-'s siitcllitcs — l'"(i>tci-. M;iLrncli(' (lip oriiccdli — l';irry um] Kostor. \ ni'iiilioii — I 'iii'iy 1111(1 vnrioiis (illiccrs. 'V\\r IJoanl of Loiiiiitiidc luiviiiif siiiii^t'stcd tliii! oik- (if lii(' objects ot" the present voyiiiii^ siioiild he tlie d,'- teriiiiiiiitioii of tht^ liuure of tlie'eiirlh, by nieaiis of th(! vibration of a peiidiibiiii, the apparatus of Captain Hen- ry Katei'"s ooiistrnetion was sn|)plie(l to the e\pe(hrion, and placed in char<;(' of lieutenant IJenry Foster. As it was necessary tliat tin' nunil)er of vilirations of tl.(; sanu! pendiiluin should be known at dilfei'ent ))laces. .Mr. I'ond, the Astronomer iloyal, allowed the trial to Im- )na(le at (Jreenwich. Tln^ results of the experiments, as stated by Jiieiitenant Fostei", ^i\o brielly — N'luiibcr ei' vibrations at (treenwicli . . lU\,\'i9,4:il Ditto at i'orl iiowea . . !;()VJ:30,-J 1-J lAMi^'tli of seconds' i)en(lulnni in the latitude (if (irecnwich .... :]n-]:5f»l 1 inches. I>ilt() at Tort J'xiweii :].'*-2();! }(>!! do. WhiMic(% Mr. Foster says, the fraction ex})ressini^ the diminution of gravity from the pole to tlio eciuator is ()05n.j'>, and The eliinticily of tli(^ "arlli, ' 'i'liat of the Frencli i:e(ini(,'tri('jaiis, — L__, Sal)in(> from tiie north. L_. LM It-l 8abnie, .^h•lville Island. ' From Lieut(>nant .fames Clai'ke T\oss the Apponchx eontiiins a l)rief account of the (piadi'iipeds, birds, tishes, and insects, and invertebrate animals. There is also an Hccoiuit by Sir William Hooker of the plants found in th(f course of this voyaue. Tliese maybe bi-itMly stated !is inider, embracing both east and west coast of this j)or- tion of America. Q>i'rJru;>r,/s.—T\ii' Polar P,car— Arctic Fox— Lennnin" — Tolar 1 1 an — Reindeer— Uou-h Seal— Black Wliah — Nur. wiial. ^ li/n/s. — Iceland Falcon— Snowy Owl — RavcMi— Lapland Finch— Snow-IJuntinf:—l'tannij.'an— Rock (Iroiis*^ — Willow Fartrid-e— Cioklcu J'kjver— FhakiroiMs 'J species— Gulls. H > I ' 1 PARRY ri THIRD VOYAGE. 193 s)v-rirs — Kidcr Ducks, nml vjtrions oflnM-s — Liftlo Aiik, and 2 ..lIliTS. fishrs. — ()|)lii(liiitn. i sjxH'it's — Cnttiis, 'J spiM'ios — riciiro- lii'ctrs, iKil vt'i-y uiiiiicrnus. Iiisrrfs. — 1-J s|)f(ifs, .J of tln'iu Spiders, 1 Bci', 1 Ant, I (liiat. 1 Piutlci-lly; llif other fi'.ir ;ire ISiiuuliiiin, Clendphone, J'xiiiiliiis, Mild Boinhvx. Tln^ litvi rlrhrnlr iinim. Is, whicli juv iniiiuM'ous, iuid not of very fiimiliiirized iiinin>s in fjiitiii, iiiiiy 1h; imssod over. Tlip ]5ot}iny of tho last two voyao;os, hy Sir William Iloolxcr, «Mni)nirps •,>! famiru's u\ tlic iialural order, hut, as he ohsorves, "a siiiall mmilx'r of s])(>eit's, owiiifj; tu the. fiw opportunities that were afforded I'oi- the ofticers to CO on shore, as w
    sent voyage, hy Professor Jaineson. who also ^ives a i'ew^ concludinij remarks on the iieoloixy of the i'our Arctic Expeditions, a brief ah- .xtiact is as follows : 1. ''I'hat the regions explored ahomid in primitive, transition, and secondary rocKs ; partial alluvial deposits; iii'Jern volcanic rocks not met with ; f(>w traces of ter- tiary strata. •J. That primitive and transition islands at one time ])rol)al)ly connected, and formeil a mass with the conti- nent of America, in the ))lains and hollows of wlfudi wei(; 'ieposited tin? secondary limestones, sandstones. ■• ■11191 194 ARCTIC VOYAGES. i I : t ]0. Tlnit llio rod sjuiflstono of Possossior. V>\.\, cVc. r('ii(l(n'.s il prchahic tluil rock salt may occur iii tluit (jUiir- ter. 1 1. That \\u rc^Noiis explored by f'aptain I*arry liavc un'orded varioib: iiiterestiii<; and lli,^ldy ustd'ul ores, siicli as octahedral, or Mia. ^J'hat tlu'se countries exhibit the same fieneral i;c- oiiuostical ari'anuements as occur in other countries c\- jiuiined l)y tht^ naturalist; "a fact," says the jjrofessor, " which streuiithens that opinion, which maintains tliat the <2;reat featirres of nature in the miiUM'al kin of tlie most beautiful and in- terestiiiif departments of natural science to its true rank, and prove tliat its relations connect, as it were, in the scale of itiairnitude, the phenomena of the earlli witli those more e.v- t 1 \ , hH TARRY S THIRD VOYAGE. 195 V,vy, cVc. 1 tllilt (jUill- Parrv Innc I oi'cs, .such idiil, or ltd chroiiiiitf copper j)v- uiiiuiM. aiifl •tic rcii'iDUs net, Avhicli. ili\(^ rocks, itit'itl colors iiiucli aii- .', tilso been ^eiKM'iil ;:('- untrics c\- ' j)rotVss()r. iiitii'ms tliat iii^doni iiic ; tluj Scuiic •ally duriiii; rcinai'ks in n, so Ix'iiu- suhstaiicc, li(^ modern out oi'Jii /■'/ iniitato the t first sii,'!it lid iirraiii:!'- of oui' own cii the [ilii'- is tlieii, la- nd suhlinie i)>:y, reward itit'ul and iii- le rank, and he scale of se more e\- f('n>ive arraiiircnicnts presented to oar iiitcljiircncc in tla^ pliaetary >ysteiM. and in the grand I'raiueuork nt the universu it-ilt." — App., [). 101. ('a()taiii l*any, in ohservinj; on tlie extreme facility with which sounds are heard at considerahle distances in severely cold weather, relates a circumstance that occnr- rnl at Port Uowen in conlirniation of the tiu-t. '• Ideu- ti'nant Koster hiivin<; occasion to send a niiui from tlus ahservatory to the opposite; shore of the harbor, a meas- invd (listanc<^ of (WIlHi teet (about a mile and two tenths), in order to lix a nu-ridian mai-k, had placed a second per- i^nn iialf way between, to repeat his directions; but ho t'unnd, (»n trial, that this jirecaution was unnecessary, as he coidd without dilficully keep up a conversation with tliemanut the distant station, 'j'he tli(!rnH)nieter at the tinu" waslH^; tlu^ barometer, ;j()-14 inches; weather (aim, clear, and sei-one." The Aurora is stated to liave app -ared forty-seven nitdits from October to March, fifteen times in .lanuarv, five in March, and two in October. Xothiuii particular is said of its appearance, and no oiu^ ever iieard any soiuid produced. 'JMie Aurora had no elfect on the va- riation needles, which were susptiuled (not supporUd) ill th(3 mo.st delicate manner. The atmosj)here durin-i the winter montlis is stated to liave been fivorable to the excitement of (dectricity ; but none could be made apparent, though I'arrv says the electrometer with ^mld Icuf w;,s applied to "the 'clmin, which was attached to the; mast head by irlass rods, the upper link, abov*; the mast head, beiiiy 11"; feet al)ov(3 the level of the sea ; but it was without the slightest jierceptible effect. A word on the difference of temperature, and of tho different quantities of ice on the east and west shores of continents, islands, or straits : a well-known fact, but wlpch does not appear to have been satisfactorily ex- jiliiined— why tiie Avestern coasts of (continents an'd isl- ands, of straits and inlets, should be l-ss subject to bo liainpered Avith ice than the eastern ones ? The fact is decidedly so, as many instances, in ad(htion to th<»so mentioned by Captain Parry, miyht be given. If tho cii^terly winds wero tho must pruvulent and powerful, ^ I'! rv I t I 1 !^ mm. mm \l 190 aucth; voyages. ■ I '\ the fl()»'s iiiid iii;i>^s('s ol" ic(! wouM no dotilit lie driven hv tlicni to till" ca-iciiy const ; Ijnl it would riitlioi" iipprin- llint witliiii tlio Arctic ( 'ii'clc tlio nortlicrly iiiid wrstciiv \viiids mostly pifvnil. Tlic sjiiiic; tliinjj; ohtiiins with rc- .ijiird to t(!iii|)('i!iliirc. whether on the coasts ol" continents or islands, or even in the hroad streets ol" towns, lyiny in a north and south diriiction. 'i'luis, on the western coa>t of AuM-rica, up as lar as ( "ook's l\iv»'r. between the latitude of .')■') and (id , the little certhias an(] the huniMiiii;.'-i)ir(ls are, said tf> Ik^ (diir|)inif and suiuinL\ when t'roiii New- loundland in aO , down to I'hiladclpliiii in 10 ', t'lost and snow cover the wat(!r and th«i liround. At home, the dil'lerencei ot" temperature hetwcHii tlio wosteni coast or islands ot" Scotland and tiie eastern coast is so {^reat, that the !at(^ Lady llute found tile Isle (»1 JJute more coll^e- nial with her constitution tlian even Kniihnid. 'I'he coast, of J )evonshire is ot' a nnudi milder temj)erattu'e than ihe coast of Norfolk. ( )n the same j)rmciple, the east sidr of Iveiient-street, faciiii: the west, will always he found more dry and Wrc from moisture than the o])posite side, facing the east: and so will the east side of lleiicnt's Park he moi'e (h'v, di()'erenc(> is not so fjreat as to explain the cause of the |.erm!inently-lixed ice, f"or instance, on the east coast of ( ir<'enland, or of Suutliamjiton Jslaiid, Oijd iiiiuiy other coasts running; north and south. " Tlie5?o facts, when tiikeu together," I'arry snys. I'ARRV ■< roLAu vov.\(;r.. 107 -liavc Ion;; ii^o iinprfss.'d inc with an idra that tlirro iiiii>t exist ill tilt- Polar region soiiir ;;t'iicijil motion of t!:i' scfi toward the west, cansinu tlic ice to set in tiiat ilirt'ction when not inipt'llnl \)y conti'ary winds, or local liiid occasional currents, nntil it hntts a^a'inst those shores which are actiiallv found to he most encnmhered hv it;"' and he ^Mves instances ot" ships heini: set to the westViird 111 ojiposition to a stronj^wind hlowinu tVom that (piarter; and, liiivin^ stated the tacts, he coiicindi'S hy su^iiotin^, I'lir tlie considei'atioii of othei's, whether siiidi a tenden- cy (it tile sea as that noticed may not have some con- nection with tlu? motion of the earth on its axis. Such an idea, it is appndiended, is not tenahle. as it is <,a'iier- aliy understood that tlie motion of the earth carries witii il liotii tlie sea and the atinosj)lu're. •I 1 1 ' )\ CHAPTER IX. PARRY'S rOLAR VOYAliE. 1^*•J7. /hr } ( (ir N'irra'/rr of aji Aflvmpf tn rrarh fhr X,>rfh I>„h' in ]!i-,'7. l',y Captain W . K. rAuuv. WuKN it is considered th,d Captain Parry, since tiio yeiir islS, has made four voyages into the Ai-ciic Seas, iind lias passed four winters in tlu^ ice, and that we now liiid hmi airam comiti<: forwai-tl in the year 1S-J7 (haviier l.ut Just returned from his last voya^v), and proposini^ In liord .\J(dville a |)lan of an attempt to reach the Noith I'nle by means of traveliim with sled-,,.|„„i,^ over the in;.- or throui-h any spaces of wat(>r that miuht occur, tins darui-r attempt hriims back to our recollection the .xtreme sullenti^s of Franklin and Richardson on their lirst j.)urney to the shores of the l>o]ar Sea, which dul not deter them from immediat(dy settin- out a scc(.n(l tune— wlien it is farther considered tliat ri'ankliii is now on a voyage in search of u northwest passage, and / llj; adds in h ii«r,>. "This plan. ,i.« (,ridu:illv i)roiK.srd Iv ('.i.tun (i -2 \ : I ! i mm \ f IM mm IDS ARCTIC vov.vcr.s. • I 11(1(1 to tJH'sc tlic iii(lffiiti'iiili!(' liihors of Sic .Tiiiucs f'liii'ko Koss, Ntlio liiis passed seven or eiiilit Winters of liis lifo in the ice, li.ivin^ recently iclnrned from u three years' ijxpedition into the Anlarctic ( )cean — when these se\er- id cases are |irominently l)rouj:ht before ns, the only con- clusion to he arrived at is tiiis, tliat tluMlesire for disliiic- tioii, and the confident liopn of nieritiiiii it hy sonu' new discovery, overpower (3very apprehension of danger or difliculty, licini^ satislied tluit they possess resources within themselves, and u sidlicient stock of moral cour- iiii(^ to strnii;«,d(! aiiiiinst and to coiKpier both dilticnlty and danger. 'I'her(* is also something inviting to u si'aman's mind in exphjrin^ new countries, which is not the less I'elished by tiie access to them beiii^ beset ^vith obsiu- cles which to overcouK! must sometimes re(jniro e.\- trem(> sutferinii, and even the sacritice of life. The enterpris(^ about to be described had plenty of iiovidty, dilticnlty, and danger to recommend it ; but I'arry was not a man to rush lieadlonu into a novel ami perilous scheme without makiuii incpiiry into its nature. ( )n consultinu I'hipps's voyaij,(; of 177:5, Im finds Cap- tain liUtwidiie describing thi! ice for ten oi" tw(dv(. leagues as "■ one continued j)lain of smooth, unbroken ice, bouml- ed only by the lujrizoii." Mi'. Scoresby's account w;n stron:L!,('r still. " I onc(> saw," he says, '* u field that was so free from either fissure or liommoc, that 1 imai^ine, liad it been fi'ee from snow, a coach mij^ht iiave been driven nnuiy l(!ai;ues over it in a direct line, without oli- st ruction or dan;.u'r." tireat encouram'mi'nt these ic- ports cei'tainly affoi'ded for the {)ror resources Drill fdiir- iiMilly iiiiil Sl'lllllilll's t the less itll ohstii- (jiiirc cx- pltMity (if 1 it ; hut novel iUid ts iiiiturc. luls ('llj)- vt Ieii;i;iics ■e, hoiiml- couut \v;h 1 tllilt WilS iniii^uie, liive liecii illiout oli- the.se re- ii sledne- a lartlu'r )i'iiu'i]);il!y idc \)\ ills wliu iiiid tliis pur- Dored, iiud mil, and so leiils, l);iij;s viiriely of uboi) niiisL :ig also ihu PARRY ri POLAR VOVA(iE. 199 p nposo of an iiwninjj;, a spreiit, one hoat-liooU, fonileeti pi. (lilies, and a stecM'-oiir, completed each hoat's conijile- iiiciit.'' Two officers and twelve men (ten of them seii- iiifti and two niiirines) wcre^ selecleil for ciich hoiit's ( ifw. Kach hoiit, wit'i all her furnitiu-e, tools, insii-u- iiieiits, cl(»tliin^. imd provisions of cNcry kind, weiuhecl iw').'! j)ounds, hein;: -Jli-^ pounds in wjiii^ht foi- eiK-h mim, exclusive! of lour sledges, weiyhiiiii "Jfi pounds each. ".My own iinpiirtial conviction." says I'iirry, "at tho time of setting out on this enterprise, coincided (with u siiiuie exce|)lion) with tin; opinion expres>;e(l hy tho (.'ommissioners of LonifitucU^ in their memorial to tho kiiij:, that "the jiroyrivss (tf discovery had not iirri\ed northward, ac(,'or(Hnij; to any W(dl-iiutheiiticiited accounts, so far iis ^^1 of north latitude."' The exception lu; iil- liides t(j is in favor of Mi". Scoreshy, who states liis liav- iiii:, in the year ISiKi, j-eached tlm latitude of HI 1 -J' ■IJ ' l)V actual observation, iind HI .'io' hv dejid ivckon- iiiii. "1 therefor(> consider." saj's Parry, "the hitter piu-iillel as, in all probiihility, the highest which hjid ever been iittained jjrior to the uttiMiipt recoided in tiirn coiists of S|)it/,beri,M'n in liis absenco. Tlie officers iittiiched to the liechi were Lieutenants J'ostei- and Cio/iei', the former ii most distiui^uished sci- entific niivi'rator, who, iis alroiidy siiid, lost his life on the Isthmus of I'iuiiimii; the hitter now (-iiptiiin of the '^Fer- I'or, on the existing!; voyage ol" Sir .lolni F' inklin, liaving been tlit> second in coimiiand to ("iiptain nies Koss in the South Pole Kxpedition. Lieutetifint .lames lioss, on the present voyii^e, commanded tlie second boiit. Ou tlio 4th of AjH-ii, ld:-'7, thu lleclu weighed anchor ( , ' ( K ' ' I < /i ! i i ■n^^ 200 AKCTIC VOVAfiLrf. » 1111(1 iiifidt' siiil Irimi the Noro, and on tlu; IDtli iinivcfl nt Hiiiiiiiit'itt'sl. wlitii- tlicy wciT tn I'cci'ivc on Itoiiid ci^lit r('iiisiai.' hrtwrcn his h-^'s, and nm- rein ta.-»trncil liki' a lialtci' inniid his iii-ck, thi> intt-lhu'i'nt and docile aninnd is perfectly nu(hT conunand n|' an experienced driser, ;ind jiei'|iii-nis a>tiinisliinix jnnrneys (>\er tiie Mii'le>t simw . \\ hi-n the rein is thrown n\er on the ntr->id" of tiie animal, lie im- mediately s<'ts ofl" al tiill ti'ot, and >tvitiiout provender, and witlioni snllerinii materially. Snow is to tlieni the host kind ol" Wiiter, and iec a c im- fortahlo hed. It mny well he imagined how vahiahio MH'li iniimals were likely to he to file party ; iind I'lirry observes, that *'the more we became iicciistonied, and, I may say, attached to them, the more paint'nl becanm the idea of the net'essity which was likely to exist, ot" ultimately havin;;; recoiirsi' to tlieni as provisions for om- solves," On the 1 Ith of .May tin; I lecla rounded llakliiyt's 1 leadland, and met with such n feiiieiidous j^ale of wiml iuu\ ^nsts from the hiuli land as almost to lay the ship on her beam ends, and oblige tln-m to i'e(hice the canvas to tho main-topsail ami stormsails, and let her drive to ItM'ward. I'arry suuucsts it miulit liave been such a storm as this that i;a\t' the name ot" this lu-adland. in an old Dutch cliart. the Dui/nl's Jlot/r. l-'rom this tinni till till' embarcatioii in boats, which did not take place till cilter "a close and tedious • besetinent" of twenty-tour duys,'" that is, from tlie 1 1th of May till tlie .-^ih of June, niJiy be looked (»n as so much lost time. Indeed, after l)einjL!; rtdeased, it riMpiireil a loni^, anxious, and tedious Boarcli fur a properly secure harbor in which to leave tho Hecla, where t;iiit it is r liis Inrlv icll (Iccf, six (lays utcriiilly. t' ii t: iiii- v:ilii!ilil)i llfi I'illTV mmI, ami, I hfciuriii exist, u'i ■i lof oiir- liikliiyt's of wind slii|) oil ' canvas di'ivt' to such a id. in an lis tiini'i |)laci' till iity-t'oiir ol" .Iniif, cd, after tedious ea\i^ tlio I on tlio retiu'ii of tli(^ boats fidiii the northward. Sii(di a spot was at i('n;:th disco\ered. " ( )ii the e\e!iinir <•! the 1-th of .liuie. \vhile standin<; PI for the liiuh land to the eastward ot' \ orle:;eii lloek, which, with due attention to the land, may he approach- ed with salety, we perceivi-d from the crow's-nest what iiupeared a low point. |)o>silily aljordaii; some sludter for liie ship, and which seemed to an>wer to an iiith'iitatioit I'f the coast laid down in an old |)nited hy tlu! I)iit(di at a very early period, ol' w hieh cir- (■ istiince records were furnished at almost (nery spot, whei'e the i)artv landed, hv the numerous iiraves they met with. Thirty of the>e were fiaiml on a p(»int of liiid on the north side of the hay. The hotlies had been umerally (leposite(l in oblonu wooden cot'l'iiis. not burii-il, lint merely covered with larye stones; a board near the bead records the name of the deceased, the ship, her inmniander. and her date ; one was so far hack as l(i!n). I'arry is riuht in supposing: the name of the bay to \ni fidin In iir( II, to lanu-nt, on ai'count of tlie mortality that liiis occuri'ed there. llavinj; now made liis linal arrantiements, and jiiven proper dii'ections to Lieutenants Koster and Cro/.ier, ( 'aptain I'arry Itd't tlie ship with his two boats, whicdi he liiimed the Knterprisi^ and the Kndeavor. Mi". ISeverley bein;^ attached to his own. and liieiitenaiit Koss. accom- panie(| by Mr. IJird. in the other. As the season had so far advaiKM'd. lie took only seventy-one days' j)rovisions ; :iiiil as it appeared liiiihly improbable, from what had liceii seen of the very riiimed nature of the ice they W(Hild first liave to encounter, that " either the reindeer, tile snow-shoes, or tlie wheels would prove of any ser- vice for sotne tinuf to come, I iiavi' up the idea ot takiii!^ tliem. We, liowever. constructed out of the snow- sliiu's four exctdlent sUmI^cs for ilraimini; a |)art ul" i»ur biigguijo over the ice, which proved of invaluable serN icu « t ! is ■' 20t> ARCTIC V()V.\(;i:rf, , I to ns, wliild tliP rest (ifflH' tliinys just moiitiom'il would ((Illy liiivr ht'i'ii nil riiciiiijIdiiiH'f." W'lial lirciiiiu' <»l' those iiilfrfstiiii: lilll«* crt-iil hits, tho »'ii;lit r»'iii(|('('r, wliicli were spoken (»l" with u kiiiil of nl- I'cctioMiito i'«*uui'(|, wliilc it was liintrd that the iiainliil iifcrssity iniyht arise olliaviiiif recoiiise to them as pru- visioii, is not stated. It was soon evident, indeed, rnnn tht.' appearance of the ice, that they could not he ol'ihe slightest use, hut a yreat encnnihiance in the hoiits: ot" their ultiinati^ l'at<^ no mention is made in tli(> nai'iative. Lieutenant Ci'ozier accoinpaniefj the hoats as tarns W'aldeii Island, where a deposit ol" provisions was lel'i, whence they proceeded to Little Talile Island to exam- ine and rivsecure tlie provisions that had heen lell there l<)i' their I'c^turn. The prosp»M't to the northward was ravoral)l(< enouyh, only a small (jiianlity of loose ice he- iiiif in sijfjit, the w<'athei' calm and clear, with the sea as smooth as a mirror; th.-s "we set off without delay, at lialf past t". At noon the n«»xt diiy, Uitvv n run of two hours in open water, with a wt^sterly wind, wr. werc^ stopped hy close ice, and ohliiied to haul the boats upon a small llotvjjiece, the latitude by observation beinj^ f^P As tills voyaso is of so bold and (lai'inp a character, and in all its circumstances so novel and perfectly unicpie, no description of it, except in tlu; wcjrds of the conmiander of the Knterprise hinis sen MS ilcliiy, ill riic \v!.i- iipoii tlio we piiss- II l)»'ll()\V- ith llifir ikf tlu'iii IMR'lllit'S ;, our hit- it. l>t'iii<^ II of two Its iipoii LCter, and iiiijiic, no niiiiiiuli'r (>iul«'r iui iiiii«Miu'nt party on irouglnjut Uiis t'xcnrsioii. jiftrr wi- liisl •■iifrml ii|i(iii tlii- ]rr, T iii;iv ;it i(llr, (•(iii-.t;iiit (l.'iyliL'lif ill tln'M- |•|•L'i<'ll.^ (lillilil,' tlif silimmT srii-iiiM. 'Tlic iiil\:ilitiii.'i-« nt llii^. pliii, wliiili WHS (M(;i-«i(iii,illy tlri';iiiL'«'il l»V circiiliistiilii-cs. rnii^i-tnl, t'n-l, ill "iiii" JiMiidini.' tin- iiitni.sr ami n|iprc.ssiv(' ^'hiif liniii till' snow tliiiiiiL' till- liiiif III' iIh' sun's i,'n';itr--l nltitiuji'. -^u ;iH to pi-('V*>iit, ill r^Miiif ili';.'riiii\v iiriii'.: liardiM" at iiijlit ihr travrliiiL'. 'I'lif rmlv disad%rintai.'(> (it'tliis plan was, that tlic fuirs wfrc sonirwliat mmr trnpirnt and more thick liy iiiLdit than l»y day, tliiiiii.'li even in this ro- >-|irct tliciT was Irss ditli'i't'iicc than iiii^'lit liavr lirni >iip- jiiisrd, thf tciiipcratnn' diiriiiLr tin- twriity-timr hours iiiidfr- uiiiiii.' I»iit little variation. This travclini.' liy iiiL'lit and slct-p- iiiLT liy diiv so ciiiniili'trly iiivcrtfd tin' natural urdcr of thing's, that it was diiliiult to pfisnado oiirsclvrs nf the roality. |]vcu llii- oHiccrs and niyscit', who wcro all fnriii>hi'd with fiockct clintiioiiirtcrs, could not always licar in mind at what part of till" twfiitv-foiir hours we had arrived ; and thcrr wm- sev- eral of the men who declared, and I lielieve trnlv, that they never knew iiiirht from day dnrinir the whole exciirsidii." •• When we I'ose in the eveniiii:, we commenced our day Iiv |)ravi'rs, after which we took otl" our fur sleepintr-dres,-es, and put on those liir traveling'; the fnrnier lieimr made of lainlet, lined with racoon skin, and the latter nf stmnir hlno lidx-cloth. We made a ])oiiit of always puttiiii,' mi the sanio stockiiiL's and lioots for travelinir in, whether they had dried (hirimr the day or not ; and 1 helievo it was only in li\e or six instances, at tlie most, that they were not either still wet 111' hard ii'o/.en. 'i'liis. indeed, was of no conseipience hi nuikI the discomfort of first ])uttiiiL' them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroni:hly wet in a ipiarter of an hdiir after cdinmenciiiLT our journey, while, on the other haiiil, it was of vital iiii[)ortaiice to keep diy thiuLfs for sleejiinu in. I'.eing ■ " {fail w • Huccccdi'fl in nucliin.: the liiL'licr hiHtmlrH, ^\ill■n' tin; cliiiiiLri' (if till' -an'- iiltitiiili' dui'liiir thr twiiity-l'oiir hours is .-till Irss prr- rcjilililc, it Wdiilii liavi' licfii i .-.-ciitiiilly iii'ci'ssary to ]i(),-,-i'-s fiir ('crtaiii iiicaii- ot' knowing' this, siiicf an error of twclvi- hours of tinir would have carrii'l us, win n wr intcndi'd to rrturii. on a iiuriiliaii o|i|io-iri' to, or 1~(1' fi-oMi, the riu'lit one. 'I'd oliviati' the ini-^siliihly of this, wc hail Miiui' chroiioiiiiti r-, coii-tructi'd by Mi'ssr-. l'arl.-ili|c, t'loiii \scl, uf si'l i>\\' (111 u\u- day's Joiinifv, and usually Iravclrd t'loni 11\(^ til live and if. lialt lidurs, then stnji|ifd an Imur tn dine, and ML'iiiu traveled liiur, live, (u- even six lidurs, accdrdini,' to cii'ciimslances. Al'ler this wr lialtcd tor the niu'lit, as \vt; tailed it, tlioiii:h it was usually early in the niorniim. seleet- iim tilt." lariiest sui'liice (if ici; we lia|i|)ened to ho near tor hauling' the hoats on, in order to avoid the danner of it> lireak- iiiLr u|i by coniinir in eoiitact with other masses, and also to jireveiit dril't as much as nossihle. The ixiats were placed close aloiiL'side each other, with their sterns to the \viud, the Miow or wet cleared out ot tli(;i.i. and the sails, su|i|i irted \>v llie hamlioo masts iind tlirei* paddles, placed oNcr them as awninizs, an entraiici^ieinf,' left at the liow. livery man then imniedialely put on diy stockinirs and fur liools, after whicli we set alKiiit tli(^ necessary repairs ot hoats, sUnliies, or clothes; and, after servini^ tin.' provision.^ for the siuceedin:,' day, we went to supper. Most of the otlicers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the hoats and awii- in L's very much, and usually raised thi' temi)era1ure ot ( lur loiL'ini^s 10 or 1') . 'f his part of tlie tweiitv-t'our lioni's wa.» often a time, and the oiilv one, of real eiijo\'meiit to us; ilir men told their stories, and ' lliuudit idl their battles o'er ai:aiii,' and the labors of the day. unsuccessful as they loo (jtten were, were fori:otteii. A rei,'ular watch was s(,'t duriiiir our restiiii;- time, to look out for bears, or for the ice breakimr up round us, as well as to attend to the dryini: of the clothes, each man alternately takiiiu' this diitv tor one hour. We then con- cluded our day with pravers. and haviu,:: put on our fur dress es. lay down to sleep with ;i (h'l/ree of comtort which per- liaps few pers(»ns would iinai:ine |iossible under such circum- stances ; our clii«>f inconvenience lieiim. tliat we were some- what pinched for room, and tlieretbr(> obli^'ed to stow rather closer than was (piite aL'reeable. The te aperatiire. while we sle[>l, was u>uidly from ',](> to 1.")-, accordini: to the state of the externiil atmosphere; but on one or l\\(i occasions, in calm iwtd warm weather, it njse as hii,di as fiO to (i(i , obli- ^'im: us to thi'ow otV a jiart of our hir dress. After wo had slept seven hours, the man a]i]ioiii1ed to boil the cocoa i"ous( it I us. wnen it was I'lady, liy tlie soim,! ot a liuirle, wtieu wo commenced our day in the manner betore di'scribed. •'Our allowauc'.' of pruvisions tor each man per day was us follows : Biscuit . . . .10 ounces. remmlcan . . . . U " « i IWRRY S rOLAR VOYAGE. 205 11'' Swi'ctciicd C'oco.'i I'owdi-r . 1 oi.ucc to make one i)ijit. Iiiini . . . . I irill. 'I'ohacco . . . . :} ounces per week. Our furl consisted eiiliicly of sjiirits of wine, of wliicli rwo pints loniied our daily alloweiice, the cocoa heiii:,' cooked in Jill iron boiler, over a shallow ii-on lamp, with seven wicks. \\ c ij>ually found one pint of the spirit.- of wine sullicient for ji-rpariiiLT our Itreakfast, that is. tlir heatini: i2!l pints of water, tlioiii,'li it always commenced from the temperature of ;{•,'. If tlie weatlier was calm and fair, this (piantitv of fu(d hrouirht it to tiie hoiliiiir point in aliout an hour and a (|uarter, luit, more i:enerally the wicks l)e;.'an to ^'o out licfore it had rc.iched 'JDO . This, iiowever, mad" a very comtiirtahle meal til ptM-sons situated as we were. Such, with verv little vari- ation, was our re^'ular routine durim: the whole ot' this ex- cursion." — 1'. o.j-.jI*. Tlio ))iii-fy iinist liave heeii iirievoiisly disiippoiiif ed on riiidit) ice was so mmdi in mo- tion as to miike it daiiiierons to cross with loaded boats, the masses bein^^ so small. Another day they landed on a small floe, bnt " it proved so riiirixed that we wei-e nhlitred to miik(> fhre(» imd s(Miietimes lonr jotn-nevs with the botits iind provisions, iind this by a very ciirnitoiis J'oiile, so that tlie road by which we madi" a mile ol' noithin<: was fi lull mile iuid a half in length, and over ihi- we had to travel at least live, and soinetinu's seven times." In short, from the •J.')th. the day they started, to the .Soth, it W'iis found, by an observation lit midniyht, that they lijid rpiiched ii(»"hiuhir tliaii 81° 23', " so thut ii 20G ARCTIC V0YAGE3. f J M 1} wo liart mjide only oijiht iniN's of northing siiicn our last ohsci'Viition iit noon on tin; •J.')tli."' Cnptain I'jiiTy observes, that iis thf; teniper.itnre liy iiiglit and day was liable to little variation, soini^ incon- venience Avas exjXM'ienced with re<:ard to noticing tin- tini(!. To obviate any mistake which at or near the J*ole might lead them, by taking the wrong twelve Jjours, to a mei'idian l-^O^ from the intended one, the\ had some chi'onometers ot" whicl; the hour-hai.ul minlc only one icvolntion in the day, the twenty-lour h()ur> l)einii marked round the dial-})lato. (See I'age '2{)'.j and iS'ot( e on this sui)|e( ■^-) The 1st oiMulv brouirht them to no bettor ICO a tew small does occui'red, with pools ol" water between them, the ic»; less broken up, and sometimes tolei'al)ly level : but six to v'ighteen inches ot" soft snow lying on the sur- lace made tht^ travelling very t'atiguing. and obliged tbe ])arty to ui.dei'go at least two, and somt^times three, jour- neys with theii" loads. On the boats Idndlna: on a lloe- pic^ce, l*ai'iy and Koss generally walked on aiiead to select the easiest road tor the boats to follow : the sledges canu' alter them, by which the snow was trod- den down, and nnide easier' tor thc^ boats. What follows is too interesting to b(^ omitted. " As SDOU MS we arriv<'(l at the otlier i^\\i\. of tlie lloo, or came to aiiv ditlicult [ilace, \vc mounted one of tlie lushest lionunocs of ice mar at hand (many of wliicli were fiipni llfteen to twenty-live feet above the sea), in orcU-r to obtain a hetter view around us; and nofliinir could well exceed the dreariness wliicli such a view ])resente(l. The eye wearied itself in vain to lind an ol)ieft but ice and sky to I'est upoii ; and even the latter was often hidden from our view hy the dense and dismal li)gs which so f,'enerally prevailed. For want of variety, the most trilling circumstance engaged a more than ordinary share of our attention; ii pussing gull, a mass of ice of unusual form, hecani(> objects which oiu" situation anil circumstances magnified into ridiculoas importance'; and we have sinci- often sniih'd to remember the eager interest, with which we reirai'as tt) tiu'u from this scene of inanimate desolation to our two litde boats in till' distance, to see the moviu',: tiLTures of oiu' men winding with their sledi^'cs amoiiix the lionunocs. and to hear oncti ijiorc the sound of human voices breaking the stilhiess ot this I a 1 PARRY 3 POLAR VOYAGE. 207 icy wililciTK-ss. In snino cnsos Lioutcnant Ross and mvsclf lunk s('|)!ir;it(' routes to tiy the ltoiiikI, which Ivt-pt us ahuost CDiitinually tiouiKh-riug aiuoni,' do('|) snow mid water. 'J'iin sl('. When they liad tlio good fortiiiu! to icacli a small Hoc, tli(^ snow on its siirlacc was so decj,. and tlie pools of waf(M- so friMpieiit, that after a lahorioiis day's work the distance traversed was perha|)s two miles, and riiiely exceeded five. Tlw snow, nn)reovei-, was so soft as to take them u[) to the kiu'e at almost every other stt^p, juid fj-e(jiiently still d(!eper, so that they were sometinu'S live minntcs tof^efher in moving a singh^ empty boat with all their miited strength. The rain ])n)dncod a greiiter effect on the snow than the snn. Party savs lliid Koss jind himself, in their pioneering dnty, were so frequently beset, that sometimes, after trying in vain to extriciitc^ tlieir legs, they were obliged to sit down to rest themselves; and the men, in di-agging the sledges, were often under the necessity of cniwliiig on tdl fours to make any progress tit all. In one })lace they were more than two hours in pi-oceeding one hundred and lifty yards. Vet the men worked with cheerfidness and good will, hoping to reacii tin; sj)ot (though they had long passed it) where Captain Lntwidge found '■one contiimed |)l;dn of smooth, unbroken ice, bounded only l)V the liorizon.'' One day of great fjitigne, after sto|)ping to empty their boots and wring their stockings, is thus spoken of : " We halted for tlie night at half an hour li'-fore midnight, the iXMiple being almost exhausted with a laliorious day's woi'k, and our distance made good to tlie northward not ex- ceeding two miles and a (juarte!-. We allowed ourselves this iiiLrht a iiot supper, consisting of a ))iiil of sou]) per man. maiie ol an ounce of penauicuu each, and eii-dit or ten birdrf which ! - 1} mm. 208 ARCTIC VOYAGES. h \\ <■ li;i(l killed ill tin- ciiiirsc fiflln- l;ist week; ami tliis w I-; ;i • • (llllv ;i(l sri-s(m> thus sitiiMtfd could pi-rliiips iiloii ;i|i|iicci;itc. \\ very siiml (IdM'kic. !i loitiii, u iiKillniiiick, and two or tlirc il>."— I'. 70. Oil the 1-,'tli (itMiily tlioy luid reached tlie latitude of HJ^^ M' -J.s" : a hriiTiaiit duv and clear skv overhead, ••jni nlisoliite luxiii'v to us." Tlie pools and strinims on 1 1n- dites increased, and caused the men to make a veiy cic- ciiitons routt;. '• It'aiiy thiiijj; could haxc compensated for the d(day theses occasioned ns, it woidd have heeii the heautiliil hlue color peculiar to these supt>r-i:Iacial lakes. ^vhi(dl is certainly one ol" the most pleasiiiij; tints in iiii- ftire." The next day they were i.i latitude ri-^- 17' In ; no holtom with )(•() tathoms ol" line ; tem|)eratui-e of water hroui^dit, up, .')] Ol surlaci! water, •{•)' ice iltl a; air, ( )n this diiv we sa \v ol the ," sa\-s I'arry, "duiiiiii this last journey, a mollemuck, iitid u second Koss mill; and a couple ol" smtiU jVn s (to us an event ol" ridiculous importance) were ronii;' upon the ice," hut whether living or dead is not recorded. No improvement on ihe lUli, alter five liours' im- ceasinjj; lahor ; tlu^ progress was a mile and .; halt' duo north. tlioii;i;h from three to four miles had heeii trav- ersed, and ten at least walked, havinii; made three jour- neys a Ljreat part v'i llie way, lauched and hauK-d up the hoals foui" times, and dra^zi:!;'''! tliom over tweiity-five separate pieces of ice ; no imj)rovemeiit in the tiaveling. '•After more than (deven hours of actual lahor on the l-'th, reipiirinji" for tlie most part our whole streiiy;tli to Ave had traveled over a sj)ace not exceediiu he e\ei led. four miles, of \\ liich (Uily two were made: i^ood." IJiil this suail-like progress was not tlu^ worst that befeil them ; it was vei'y small, hut still it iras progress. Now, liowe\er, the LMlth of .Inly, Fari'V says. Wc halted at 7 A.M. Iiaviii^' I IV our reckoiuuir accoin- pli>lie(| .--ix iiiiles ,'111(1 a Halt 111 a N.X.W. d iicctioii. the (II- laiice tra\ersed lieiiii: ten miles and a halt'. It jiiav iherefiire lie iiiiairiiied |i(i\\ irreal xvas oiir Hnirtificatiiin in liiuiiii:: that 'i' miles to the northward (if (Hir jilace at imoii on the 17ih,siiice wliicli time we Jjad certainly traveled twelve m thai dircclioi;,"' — 1'. d\. PAIIRV d POLAR VOYAGE. 209 liiflor tlioso (lisconrnLMiiii riiriuiisffuu-cs. it was (|,..>m- 0(1 pni.NMlt to llVoi.l IMilkitlir fhf, tiler known t.. the 1,1. '11 • at the sjnilo tiiiip, a v.. and tli,> htier wcrn nearly lost (hn.ii,-li tlu- ire : sonu^ of tlio uwn, too went t}n-oun;li, hut worn ,,rovid(MiIiallv saved. On tliJ 'JJ.i. howev.T, tliH ic. liad <-onsid,.rahlv inipn.Vfd ; tlio fiof's h,.rain.> lar-n and toleraMv levek aiiij some .mkuI liines ot walor occurring, it was calculated fliey had Hiado l,etW(!en ton and eleven miles, and traverM>,l a distance ot about stnenteen. alter uum^ than tw.dvo li..ur.s' actufil traveling, by which tho people were ex- tremely fatigued ; - but whil.^ the work," says Parry -.seemed to bo repaid by any tiling lik.; prouMvss, the UK'ii labored witli groat chiM-rfulness to the utmost of fiieir streiigfji." Jt may readily be imaiiined that tho .!.i|.roveniont of tile ico, and with it the increased pro-. less, gave much satisfaction, thou-h the encounudncr prospect was but of short duration. " *' ." I" I'n.porti.Mi, then, to the hopes W(; had l)e-un to enf.-r- t.iiii, was our disappoiiitiueul la fiudiii- at iiora lliat we wero m latitude H-J- 4^ '>", or not (piite fbur miies to the north- wanl ot yesterday's observation, instead of tin- ten or eleven winch we had tmv.de.l! Howt-ver, wo detennined to con- tame to the last our utmost exertions, thoiiirh wo coid.l never "nee oncoura-o the men by assuring them of our makin- |,'nn.l progress ; and setting out at seven in th." ovenii.Lr. soon tnuii.l that our hope of havin- pormanently reacln-d better ico was not to bo reali/od, fo. the tloo on wluoh wo slept was so l-ill "t lionun<.cs that it took usjnst six hours to cross it. tho kdf'^r",^ "l!;''^^'^ ^'"^ '"'^ excooding two miles an.l a Such a result was disheartening enough to the offi- cers, who kn(nv to what little effect tlu^ struggles wero made, ot which, however, tho men !i[)pearfHT to have iH. suspicion, though Parry says " tlu^y often laughin.dy r'.""'';' riM -'"^ ''''*' ''■*''■*' '' '""- >'""'^' .yetting 'to this '■' • J l"« was merely tho point assumed, as they certainly had no suspicion that on their arrival at that l)ou)t they would have been entithnl to om^ thousand pounds.* lUit, had they known it, they could not have * By ordpr in council. 14 S * < > ; ( I i * -; hJ Il *) 10 ARCTJC VOYAGKr i^'' h liihorcd i7U»i'c cai'iicstly lliiiii ihey (iid. Tn tlicir slow (Kill ICC 1u tlu^ iiortlnv.ird, tliC! ire hcciiiiic so siiiiill llmt ii siiiirh! |)it'C(! only could bo iouod to pluco tlio b(jiit,s upon. On tlio "Jiitli I'arry siiys, " Tli(5 \v«'iith<'r improviiii: lownrd iiodii on tlio 2(itli, we ()l)f!iiii('(l llic iiicridiiui Jiltitiidc ol the snii, l)y wliicli wo I'oiiiid ours'-'vcs ill lalilndc iJ-JJ 'lO'U;}"; so tli;it, since our lust oh- MTViition (ill, inidini.'lit on ihc '■1'2(\), we luid lost by drift less tliJiii tbirteeu miles ;iii< I a bait'; tor wc; wi're now n no lore ibau three miles to the soufhicard. of that observation. thoiiL:ii we had certainly traveled between ten and eleven dm; nnrtli in this int<"rvid I Airain, we were but one mile to the north (if our |)la(e at noon on tin,' 'Jlsl, thonirh we had estimated orir ( list; d tl nice niaOc lal tor :oo(l at tweiity-tiiree mile ast live davs we had b J hus it ap- ,.^,..,,1 ...... ..,, ,,.. .,..,. live days we had been striiq-irliii^ against a southerly ilrift exceeding four miles a day." — 1'. Id,'. It in)W becaiiH' ohviotis that the sea in this latitiido had assiiiiied a chaiiictcr utterly iiriiit tor th(^ kind of navij^ation, or, rather, of lloe-traveliiiu, which had hither- to been pnrsned— in short, that it had become hopeless to pin'suc^ the jonriiey any farther. " It had. for some time past, been too evident that the ]iatnr(! of the ice with which we bad to contend was such, and its drift to the southward, es|)ecially with a northerly wind, so irreat, as to pnl beyond our I'eacli any thini: but a very )noderate share of success in travelinj/ to the northward. Still, however, we had been anxious to reach the hii^hesl latitude which our means would allow, and with this \ iew, althoujjrh our whole object liad loiii^ become unattainable, had pushed on to the northward for thirty-five days, or until half our resources wer(> expended, and \\io middle of our s(\ison ai-rived. For tla^ last lew days the eii:hty-tliird paral- lel was the limit to which we bad vcMitured to extend our hopes; but even this exj)ectation had becomt? c(msiderablv wi'akencd since the settimr in of the last northerly wind, whicli continued to drive us to the southward duriuii; tlu! Kecessaiy hours of rest nearly as much as we could gain by »'leven or twelve hours of daily labor. Had our success 1)een at all proiiortionate to our exertions, it was my full in- tention to have ])roceeded a few days beyond the middle ot the piU'iod for which we wen; jtrovided. trusting to the re- sources we ex])ected to iind at 'P;ibl(> Island. But this was so till' from beuig tlu^ case, that T could not l)ut consider it as incurring usele; s iiitigiu' to the oilicers and men, and umn>ces- baiy wear and tear for the boats, to persevere any longer iu parry's polar voya(;e. 211 tlH^ nit, mpt I ,l.-trrnn,>,.,l. tluT.-lon-. on dvi,,.' il... proplo ;"'- .■..tin. .I.ys ,v.s, ^vhuli thrv v.rv unuU ur.drll ,- .d """l'.»-^' • •• 'S. , and ion«. UP 2;V east. The ,Iav was (,ne of the warmest and most pleasant tliev vet had ..xpcri- ;;iK'ed upon tlie ice; the thennometer (h.Iv from ;]1 to -no r",i ; ■•'' ""'^ "' ' '" ^*'^' ^^""5 '^^ l^'^tto", with oUO liithoms ol Inie. -At the cxtrrnir point of our jonniey our distance f,n,a U,.. Ilerlu was only one hundred and seventv-tuo ndl..s in a ■ ■ - U. direction. lo accoinpli>h this .fistance we ha.l Mv,,-sed..y our reckon.u.^ two biUMhed and ninetv-two ii>il.-N of which about one hun.l.rd were peid.nned bv water l.rcvously to our enterin.r the ice. As we traveled bv far th^ ,:-'.eater part ot our distance on the ice three, an.i not untV, - «|"';ntly hve tujies over, we may safely multiply the len-tli "1 'iH- road by two and a half; s.fthat our whn'le-dis^.ncerou • i Ncry moderate calculation, amounted to live huiidivd an.l n.^hty geograj.hical, or six hundivd and sixtv-,.ij,t statute i-nles being nearly sullici.u.t to have nviehed' tlie i>„Ie in a ; :nvt hue Lp to this perio.l we had been particularlv for- tuiiate 1,1 the preservation ot our health ; neither si<'kne.;s nor <:isualt,es having <.ccurred among us. with the exception of 'i|<". tr.thng accKh-nts alrea.ly mentioned, a few bowel com- plaints, which were soon removed bv care, an.l som,- rather t.-oubles.,me eases ot chilblains, arising from our cou.stant ex- posure to wet and cohl.""— I'. K)}, lo:,. Uu this day of re^t from thi!ii- iubors, Parry soys, n^ .{ n ' i ; 1 mm 212 ARCTIC VOVACKrf. "1 "Our ciisiirns mikI |icii(liiiits wen" (lili \\,\'j ill llir liiulirst liititiidc tn wliicil wc Irnl iis|iii'fil, \vc sli.iil |)rili,i|)s l)c (wciiscd ill linviiii,' l«'lt sdhh.' l.ttic |)|-i(lr ill lii'iiiLT till' lii'iiri'i's nf it to m |t;ii-,illcl consider;!. I>ly Im'NoikI tllllt lliclitiiiiicd ill any ntluT \\ i'li-;illtllc|iticiilrd irccird,"' ( )ii the v.'7tii tlit'v set (lilt (111 their return to the Noiitli- Wiird, iiikI. siiys I'lirry, '• I cmi siitcly siiy tliiif, drciiry iiiid clKM'rlfss as wcrt^ \]ui scenes we were iihont to leiivi', we never turned lioinewiird with so little siitisluc- tioii as on this occiisioii." No niiui nor body of men iire rh!ir,i;e!il»lt^ with hianie lor not iiccoin|)lishiiii!; iiupossiliil- jties : the piirty in (|uestioii have tloiie more than liad ever lieen done at any time, or more j)i'ol)al)ly tjian will ever be (loiie aiiain (»n the same plan ; it is mncii to sav iliat they succeeded, in advanciiii; toward the Poli; of the eartli, to a point whi(di no liiiiiian Ix'in^ liefore tliein liad ever reached, and after a cheertiil and patient en- durance^ of laborious driidiiery, which, it is to be lioped. jio human beiii^ will ever lienafter be indiiceij to rejieat. It will not be necessary to follow our vovairei's on theii" retui'ii; the permaneiicy of the soutluM'n current, for so it would seem, alforded them tiie satisfaction of feidiiii:; that whatever leni^th of joiii'iiey they made to tin; northward would be so niuidi yaiii, and no bacU-slidiiii; ; every mile would t(dl ; they had, moi'eover, tin* advan- tage wlii(di is noticed by I?arry, of jiettiin; rid of tlu^ ijlarc! from th«> snow, on account of the lownt!ss of tlit^ sun at iiiiiht, as also tlu^ comtiirtablo change wIumi looU- iiiij out for the road ; and had the sun behind them, in- stead of facing; it, as on the outward journey. JNothiiiij very remarkable occuiTed on th 'ir r(!turn. A quantity of snow was met with, tiiiiiiMl to the depth of several inches with sonu^ re(l coloriiif:; matter: this red snow occurred in two or three* spots, some* of which they hot,- tieil, and found, on examination in Kn^lund by Sir Will- iimi Hooker, as former specimens were, to be the P(//- melld nirniis, oiu^ of the Ali^a', and which, lonjf befor(», JJauer had |)ron()unred to be Undo fiivalis. " A fat she-hear crossed o*-er :i l-iiio of wat(>r to visit w*, and approaching the boats within twenty yanls, was killed by Liout. iloss. The ecene which foUowetl was laughablL', iiniiL,' Ilio Ml illlli' 111 ll we Inil li'lf Sdllll- (•iiiisi(lcr;i- ji'iilicali'd lie suiilli- t, (Ircury ill)()llt to ' Siltisl'llC- IDCIl ill'll upossihil- tliiiii liiiil tliiiii will ■ii to siiv Pole of ore tlit'iii ticllt (Ml- )(' liojx'd, () vcpciil. iii^t'r.s on I current, "iiction of idc to the k-slidiiii;; 1(3 adviui- id of tlu^ ss ot" the luMi look- theni. iu- iS'otliini; qujintity )f seveiiil red SHOW they l)ot;- Sir Will- tlie Pal- ijr bofoi'(% :o visit us, was killed lautrhable, r A R U Y ri I' u I, A R V O Y A (. i: . 213 even to MS who partjcipiitrd in it. J5«dore the aiilnial had • inn.' hituii: the snow, on.- of the nwu uas alon--ide of hrr with an ojicn knife, and hcin- a>krd wliat hr w;l> ai.oni t<. iIm. iv|.lird, that he was \nn\v^ to cut out the iieart and liv.-r, to |)iil into the pot which happened to he then hoilin^' {\>r oui' supper. In short, hcti.iT the hoar liad he.ui doa.l an hom-, all hands fif us were einjdoyed, to our ^'rcat satisliictioii. iu dixiissini,' the inorits not onlv of the said heart and liver, i)ut a pound per man of thr lles'h ; hrsides which, soiiii' (.r o'tli.T of the men were eonstantiv frviie,^ steaks during' the whole day. ovi'r a la.u'e fire made of the hluhhoi."— 1*. HI. The eotisecpuiiice of thus ^Mn-niaiidi/iiiii; ou fut hoar's (le.-h was ohvioiis. JJevoured a.s it was witli such avid- ity hy th(( ,.;!'u, some of them couiplaiiied for sevoral days of pains such as usually arise froui iudion(iuhi Aniica, on which liumerous hirds wero foedin,<;. Tiiis was tho 1 Ith of Aui^ust, on the morning of wliich the Hrst sound of the swell was hvnvd undi-r tho hollow iMari,'ins of tho ice. and in a quarter of tin h(»ur we reached the open sea, which was dashiiiir Avith heavy surges against tho outer masses. " We lauded our boats/' says Parry, ^' iq)on Olio of these, to eat our last m(>al upotl the ice'." Thoy were now fifty miles distant from Table Island, wiiicli thoy reached about noun, aud found that the beara 'I ^ ' i ' i\ > \ I ! I • ' . i \ 1r\- ?^ ii>i 211 AKcrrc vf)VA<;r,s. liiul (Icvoiii'cd all tlif hrcinl, wliicli ((CciisioiuMl u rciiiink Jiiiiniii,' tli(> iiMMi tli;it •• IJiiiiii \\!is only s(|iiiirr witli iis." < iipliiiii I'iii ry's oliscrviilioii (tii liiiiilly (|iiiltiiii; tin- ice, nl'lrr liiUiiii; lip Ills iiIhkIc ii|H)Ii it Tor lull y-»'iylif diiys, \Vii.s. >• I ciiii iiol (l(iscril)o llu- cniiirort \vc cxpcriciict'il in once iiioic lii'tfliiii: ii n\\i\ 1(101111^." ()rtli«' litr- ty-('ii;lit (liiys, lliiily-l luce wcic piisscd nii llir uiitwjinl, iiiiil litlrcM nil tlir icliini vuyiiu*' ; such is the (lilicit'iirn iM'twrcii uoiiii: with the strcaiii iiml iiiiaiiisf it, 'I'ahlr Isliiiid, however, airoided ii(» place Tor the men \i) rest. Sn ni^y;ed and iiiliuspitalil" is this iioithein rock, liiat not ii siii;;le spot was t'oiiii . where tli»! I»(iats (■(iiild lie hauled up. 'To the i^let lyiiijf oIl'Table island, \vhi(di, J*aiiy says, "is iiilerestiiiu, as heiiiu the iiurth- ernnuist known land upon tiu; <;|()|),>, | lijive applied the name ol" LieuhMianf Koss in ihe ciiait ; addinsz, "tor I l»eliev(^ no individual can have e\<'rted hiirisell" mon^ stieiiuously lo rob it oflhis distinction.'' Any ihin^r that, conrers a disliiictioii on the nfime of James IJoss is wor- thy of recordiiiii, and such is the lollowini:; passaj^e tVoni Sir William I looker on the "■ IJolany :" "Those spe- cies that were gathered in lioss's Islet are pe(Miliarly in- terest iijf, i'rom th(! circninstanc(5 ot" that island conslitu- tiiiii lilt most northern known land in lh- liiirly iii- [•otistilw- " T\h^ •ics) — (Jyro- loiiiycf^ pllilTO- tiU •ivi'd on (iiiys, inn and descrili- id \wr\\- not ac- it may ivo : \v;is fivt) nviiiir for :r duriiit; 'stiiniitrd iylit ut'O- ('( jT'^iphicMl, or tli'vrii liiiiidn-d iiiid twciity-scvcn stalutr inili-y. ('iill'idi'rill',' our (•oii>|;illt cxIkoUIi' In wrt. imM, ;ind tilti_'i|r, our .-torkiii:,'s liiiviiit,' ^'I'limdlv in-ni drriielird in ^imw -\\ ;ilr|' liir IvM'lvt' hours oiil ut' cNrry t'uur-iiiid-tu oiity, I had Lrrfnt, rriisdii to hr lhaid\hd lor the rvcrjii'iit lirallh ill which, iipotJ. thi' \\ Imir, wo roiichcd llir shi|). 'j'lirro is mm dnuhl lliat w m i^atl all hrcoiiio, in a crrtaiii dcLrrre, L;r:idually wrakor lor sunn' tiiiio past; Imt only thn'o men ol' our parly now rr- (jiiifcd nii'diral care, two of thom with liadly swollcd U"j::f ;i!id u'oiirrid doliility, and tho othor from a hrnix-; hut even t'lrsr three; rctiinird to thtir duty in a short tiiiii'. " 1 can not conchidr the a(.'Connt of our p roc red iuL's without cndcavoriim to do justice to the cheerful alacrity uikI unwea- ri'd zeal displayed l»y my e«Jinpanioiis, Itotli otHcers and men, ill the course of this excursion; and if steady j»erseverancti ;)iid active exertion on their parts could have accomplished (lur oliject, success would uiidoiilitedlv have crowiH'd our la- i)iirs. r must also mention, to the creilit of the olK(;ers of Woolwich Dockyard, who took so much pains in tlu; con- slruction of our lioats, that notwithstandiiiLr the constant and severe trial t<» which their strenu'th had heen put — and a nioru vvne trial could not well !«> devised — not a. timher wan Mu-unu', a plank split, or the smallest injury sustained in" them ; lliev wi-re, indeed, j'.s ti^dit and as lit tor service when wti paclied the ship, as when ihey were first received un board, .'uid in every I'espect. answered the intended jinrpose admiru- l.ly. "*—!'. V,\'!, 1-JI». Ciiptaiii Parry gives all duo credit for tlio diligoiit mid nctive manner in which Lieutenants Foster imd Crozier f'lillilled tlieir instrtu'tioiis duriiii; his iihsence, and for tho coiu]>let(>. state in wliich \w, found th(5 Hecla on iiis r(;- tiirii — tin; various obscM'vations interesting to science sedulously |)erformed, specimens of natural histoi'y care- liilly collected and presiM'ved, and all tlui duties of tho sliip carried on to his perl'ect satisfaction. Many inter- esting observations were madc! on tlu^ incliinition, dip, and intensity of the magiu'tic needle. " Anmng other tnagnetical observations," siiys Ptu'iy, " an interestin/^ series of hourly (wperiiuents hiui been iiuide on the di- urnal changes of variation and intensity, iind contiuuetl lor several days without interruiition, by the two lieu- tenants," From these it ap|)ears that a diurnal oscilla- tion of the inagtietic needle takes j)lac(!, usually amomit- A wcll-di'siTviil coiniiliiiifiit to the iirtiticors of that yanl, and to t:."ii ijlili.' iiia.~t()'-.-liiuwriulit, .^]r. Uliver Laiiu;, ' l\ I I v '. i Jf -f i>i(; AKc'Cic v^vAcr^q. iiiL' t(» Ji'iMiii !i (|»«m'c(' II, .1 a liiiir, a III ill sonic iiistaiiPiN to •,*,'', till' iiiaMiiiiiiM \arial.oii \u>\\\.\ altoiit 1'' 'Jj' l'.\I. TIh' cliaiini' (»t' iiitciisily ;:i\iiii: ail iticirascd artioii \va~ iiliniit in'' 'JD' A.M., and ininiinnni intfn>ity alioiit ninl- ni-lit. Till' aninials met with un the shores of 'Preinenhni:; lias and ol \\'a\^at .*^!rait wen- ol" the sanii' kind, Imi less |)lentil"iil than those on I lie \\ est coast ol' .'*«|)it/,l»eryeii : they consisted cliielly of srii-liorses. naiwlials, and white \\ hales, hilt no hiack ones; the more common aninials were principally reindeer, hears, foxes, ulaiicons ;ipd ivfwy iinlls, tern, eider ducks, and pos(>d that the lloatiii^r trees of lir that art^ to he found so abundantly on tlie shores and to the northward of Spit/herjien mij;ht pos- sihly he the means hy Nvhich this insect has heen trans- portt'd to tlie northern rejiions.'' Perhaps so; hut it may he askj'd, By what possihie means were tlu^ jirs thus transported .' Sir Kdward l*arry. at the conclusion of his narrative, nfter ohserviiiii that the ohject is of inoi'(> dillicnlt attaiii- inent than was heforc supjiosed, even hy those pei'sons 1. J 'I I I'AUltV H iMtl.AR VoYACi:. 217 istiitirr-i J' l*..\l. i(Ui wu^ tut iiinl- rciiltiir'j; /nid. Iiiii 111 wllilc iniiiiiiils (»U< ill"l St'vciity (^ miililli' t witli ill ll's were , diliirli- ||l> SllUllt li rciiiiril ind tlic^i- f icr. mill If ill 111.- iii(l«>l)ti'il will" di'- iiri 'h- ill callrd J. idis Ir.n- oliir St'ii, St known lore tliiiii I'Sftiiblt's lloatiiiif y on iho liiilit |)os- cn traiis- o : l)ut it 13 tlu^ jir-'i iiiirrativc, nit attain- ' persons wlin wrro tilt' Itfst (|iialilird to judiii' (»!' it, is still ot' opinion tliat. al'toi* inncli ronsidi'iatioii, iintj soinr t'\|io- liriico of" tlif \arioiis dilticiillioN which lioloiiy to it. Im (an not rccoininciid any niatrrial iiiipt'ovcinont in tho plan lately adopted. With all deference to the opininii nf' so distinguished a sea-ojlicer. in jiossession of xi nnich rxperieiico as Sir Mdward l*airy, there ar(^ others w ho express dislike of such a plan : and it is not iinproliahio that many of his I'eaders will he dispused to come to the ciiiicliision that, so Ion}; as the (ireeiiland Seas are ham- jicied with ice — so loiiio loiin will aiiv at- t('!ii])t to cany ont the plan in (piestion in like maniier fail. \() lahorions driidj^ery will ever he ahle to coinpier the opposing progress (»f the current and the ice. JJe- siiles, it can hardly he donltted that this j^allanf ollicer will admit, on farther consideration, that this nimsnal kind of" disgusting and unseKimin-like 'ihoi- is not pre- cisely such as would he relished hy the men. ami it may he said, is not exactly fitted fur a Uritish inan-of'-war's man; moi'eover, that it I'erpiired liis own all-powerlnl e\ainple to make it even tolerahk^ The nai'iative having thus far advam rd, a ronversa- tioii witli Sii' Kdwani I'arry prepared the writer in some dt'gree for the followiiiii letter : " Ailmirallif, '■2r>/h N<>r., \[\ l.".. " Mv PKAii Sir .Idiin, — rnderstaiidiuL' that ymi arc picp.ir- iiiLT an account of the proceed ini,'s of all the exiieditieus hy .►•ra and land wliicli have hreii eni:a::ed in Arctic diMctveiy ill our own times, 1 venture to tnnihlc yon with niv present views as to till! practicjihility of reachiii;,' the .Xorlli I'ole over tlie ice, to which you may p(is.>ihly make alln.-ion in the course (if the interestinj^' narratives which you hove undertaken. " It is evident that tin; causes of failure in our former at- tein])t in tlit; year l!{'27 were ]iriii(ipally two: thsf and cliief- Iv, the hriikeii, riiLrired. and sn/y state i,\' the suriiiee of the i((> ovei- wliich we traveled; and. secondly, the dnttiiiLr of tho whole hoily of ice in a southerly directiun. On mature ro- coiisideration of all the cii'cumstaiices attendim: this eiiter- ]>rise. I am induced to alter the opinion I :.'a\c as Tn its prac hial)ilitv in niy .hiurnal. p. I If. hecause 1 lieliese it to lie an (iliject of no veiy dithcult atiainineiit, if set ahout in a ditfer- cut manner. My plan is, th out supjjbes ill advai •(» to the distance of one luuidred mih's, to be taken np on tlie way, so as to connnence the journey coin|)aratively light; and us the intention would be to coni- ])l(;te till' enti'rprise in the course of the mouth (jf ^Nbiy, before any disruption of the ice or any material softeuiu'r of the sur- face had taken j)lace, similar supplies might be sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on their return. " If might, farther, l)e wortli while to take reindiMn" from Ibinnnei'fest in passing, with the chance of ki'ejting them alive during the winter on such fiiriuaceous food as the provisinu of llu> ship could furnish. "T will only add, that this plan might be accomplished without the ship iucurnng any material risk, since the naviga- tion both out and home need only be perfbniied at a seaxm when the sea is very little encumbered with ice; and, more- over, an o))portuuitv woidd be afforded durinI))octioii!il)If. Jr would consist of two sMiiill ships siiiiilur to tlicjs*^ wliicli. uTtcr tlirt'c yoiirs' s(!rvico in tlui AiitJirctic Seas, aro now cii- jTiiUcd ill till! ico of the Xortli Polar Soas : tlicy should Ijc scut ill tlie <;arly spriiiir aloni: the wcsrcrii "coast of S|)it/I)criicn, where usualiy uo iiiipcdiiiiciit exists, as fill' up as HO' ; take every opj)ortuiiity of proceediiiir directly to the nortli, wliere, about f^-J-* Parry has told uri. the lai-f^e Hoes had disapp^'ared, and tlu^ seu tliero was found to be loaded only with loos(% disconnected, mips!! masses of i(;e, throuyli which ships would (iiid no (lilliculty in sailins:, thouijh totally unlit for boats (lra<2;- uinii ; and as this loose ice was driftiiiij; to tlu^ soutji- Wiird, he farther says, that befoi-«» the middle of Au<;'ust; ;i ship mi^rhf have sailed up to the latitude of HJ^ almost without touching a piece of ic(^ It is not, then, unn^as- oiiablf* to expect, that beyond that parallel, even as far ii< the Pole itself, tlu^ sea would be free of ice during; the six summer months of j)erpetual sun throu^di each (»t' the twenty-four hours, which, with the aid of tho current, w^ould in all probability destroy and dissipate the l*olar ict3. If, then, on tho return of Sir John Frankliirs ships, the screw-projieller supplied to each should liave been found to answer, a fair opportunity would be atforded of (Iccidinp; tiio (pjostion. The trial" would soon be made, iuid. from the experience of Parry, would be mado without danirer of loss to ships or men, for it is probable they would not have any ice-bound shores to contend with, n^he distance from llakluyt's Headland to tho Pole is tiOO ^M'oirraphical miles, (irantinii tho shij)s to make only twenty miles in twenty-four hours (on tlie supi)()sition of mucli sailing-ice to ^o thr()uar(Jod never int(Hided, wliil(» th(^ conversion ol" the Jews was iin ev(Mit which we all know was to lie )rouL;lit al)out som(> time or otl ler, '^riiis may l.e looked upon, as doubtless Sir Jos('])h I'an' looked upon it, as sheer nonsenso. Every in- t(d' . -nt mind must be satisfuMl that, the more closely W(^ nv(>stigate the works of creation, the more, as ra- tional beings, we must be convinced that nothing tln'reiii has been miide in viiin, nor a\ ithout a pr« wdulil recollect his having I'oimd ihcrriii thfit (Jod gave to man " dominioii over till the earth,"' and made no exception of the North Pole. '^riie Ivoyid Society, howev(>r. and the ("ommissiotiers of Longitude, were less scrupulous on the subject. To % PARRY S POLAR VOYAGE. 221 fMiiinir;i,ut' 'i\ visit tf) tlif Nortli Pole, they rnconnnondiid f(i his iMiijt'sty ill council to pass nn onir;- m'iuitiii'- tlm j);i\ iiiniit ot" 11 reward ot" livt^ tiiousinid pounds * < tlio titst sliip that shall approacli within om^ drirrcc of tho Ndrth l*olc. 'J'his order is not to he considered as !iii'i-(dy an inducement lor niakiiii: the attempt, i)Ut chirtly to Pianifest their opinion ot' tln^ value ot' the sclienie. It is pretty well understood that I'ritisli naval ollicers, who, like l*arrv, J-'ranUlin, and others, emhark oil arduous and ha/.ardous enterprises ot' this nature, arc inlluenced not so much hy motives ot' pecuniary rewards as hy the hope ot' contril)Utin , 222 ARCTIC VOYAGES'. rivato tlio (rrofitcvst (lifficiiltios in tlio way of arfitiirinir iiilui-iiiiitiou .' Ill iill i-('S|)('cts an open sea would iippcjir to ho tlio most disadvantauoons. in tlio first placo. it would, in all protiability, l)o so t\f('\) that tlio shi|) coiiM not anclntr, or do(>|) enouiih not to admit ot' lior kocpin^r stoadily Ikt place tor makiiiii; accurate oi)seiTations : in tlic! next, hy her niovina; ahont, her commander would very speedily find out tliat, as every meridian niu'^t In- in the dire(;tion ot" soutii. he liad lost that on which he laid approached the l*ol(j, and, consefpiently, would iit^ at a loss to shape his coni'sc; jiomeward. 'J'he settling' of this point will natm'ally sui:u;est itstdt" as first amoa:; the many novel plienomena which will aiTest his atten- tion, and the t'ollowing observations will probably occur to him. Jn th«! first place, it will be obvious that tlie time (if day — or, rather, of tln^ twenty-four hours — would no Ioniser lie marked by any apjiarent chansfo in the altitude of the sun above the hori/on, because, to an observer at tlm J*ole, no such cliany his gallant companion, .lames Ivoss, of actually planting tin; Britisli flag on tin; magnet- ic Pole, could now be accom|)lished. as it was already known tliat tin* point upon tin; oartlTs suH'aco which is so designated lay in a nmch iowei- latitude. T\w other method of insuring the return of our trav- elers upon the right meridian, nanjely, by means of chronometers, was ono whicii rocjuired some considera- tion. It is obvious that, to an ol)server standing upon tho Pole, the sun would, at tho precise monnMit of appai-ent noon at any given i)lace, appear to tlu; observer exactly ill tho direction of that place, and that cons(H|uently this, us ascertained by chronometers, would prove an uner- ring guide as to the right direction. Hut in the; ordina- ry mode of marking the; dial-plates of watclios, fiom ono hour to twelve only, there was reason to appr»'hend that tlie u-ronii: twel-. o o'clock might be taken, under circum- stances of constant sunshine, and without any change in the altitude of that lumiiiary to distinguish day from night. To avoid the jio.-^sibility of this mistake, tlu^ pro- f . 1' 221 ARCTIC VOYAGEri. I,(.i !i!.ll '\ 1 . i i t li,i rfiiition wiH tukcMi of coiistructirii; chrotioiiH'tors (cucli oll'uH'V ciinyiiii; one in liis pockcjt) having tlii^ diiil-pliUcs marked willi iwfnfy-toiir iioiirs, and tlio liour-liand nmk- iny only one rnvolutiou in that jHiriod. Tluis, Avhcncvcr tlio clirononioters indicat«Ml apparent noon at (ireenwich, the sun would he exactly owv the meridian of that place, and so of any other |)hicu of known loui^itudo ; for iii- stanco, the harbor wluuv* our truvt^hn-s had left their ship, and to which th»'y desired to return. In visitiiiff a part of the gloix! on wliicli the foot of man has never befoi'e troddtui, it is impossihU; to say what l)(Mietils may accrut! to scienc«! ; hut in the enter- prise to which we- are now alluding, there is one object of the very highest scientitic; interest which might be at- tained by traveling to tlu^ Pole, nauudy, the measure- ment of a (iegre(! of tlu; nuM'idiaii counnencing from the. Pole itself. Many readers of tiiis narrative are aware tliat the form of the globe has long since been siscertain- od to bo that of an oblate s{)heroid, having its ecpiatoriiti diameter considerably long(n' than the polar; in moi(? popular language, that the earth is llattened at the poles ; hut it still remains a mattJU' of doubt in ivhat dei>r(r, this (lattening exists ; and as no method of ascertaining this is so conclusive as the actual measureuient of a me- ridian at the l*ole and at the Kcpiator, this objc ct alone would well repay any efliirt that might be made to effect it; even if a sutfu;ient length of lino could be measured in one of tin; meridians that are clustered on the Pole, the difficulty of preserving it W(nild require the most rigid attention. Tile swinging of a pendulum is perhaps a less accu- i'at(i iiH^thod of obtaining the tdlipticity of the earth, but it is th(i operation of a single j)erson, whereas the actual measurement of the meriihan linc^ recpiires several ; and as an increase of gravitation takes place from the Equa- tor to the J'ole, the latter mak«'S it most desirable that the reipiisite observations should be made there, or as near to it as possible ; but a ship on an open or icy sea would not answer.* The tides at tlio Pole would be an interesting subject * Till" rciuiiT i." rcfrn'rcd to X\\o pinTnil ])orti()ns of this voluintjfortlii; pouduluin oljservutious tlutt havu been niude und hcvciii givou. PARUY'rf POLAK VOVAGH. 1.) oxnn.ino ; bnf ir .Iops not npprnv fl.i.t any ronfrivunro <"' "" ''pen sra. („• a s.-a of ice, <.„„1,1 ho made use, of t., jisccrtam the n.s(^ and lall. .Mf.^netisM, atinospherical eleeM-icitv, and the A.ironi i olaris, and all otlier i.ioteerolu^ic-al ..iVservatiu.is, would allord s(;oi)(! etiouirh on hoard shi|). Sliould land however sn.all tho portion, ho iomu\ al, nr near the Pole, all tlie various ohsr-rvations would he n.nducted t« a suecesslul issue. It n.av be pn-sunn-d liMt any surh land will not he niounlai.ious. as .10 i.-e- l).T-s are ever sent down from that cp.arter, tlu'se n.ass- rs havn.ir he.Mi ascertained as produ.-ts of i^hieiers on the sides and valleys ot li.^h nio.u.tains, as iu SpitzheP'en jind (.reenland. On a piece of land t!u> pend.dun, n.i.v hr sw.ui.ir, and the rise, fall, an.j direction of the tides observed. Jt would also he interesting to (>xan.ine into the natun, ot the soil, and its ve-etahle pro.luctions ; tlu, •l.spos.t.on ot the strata, and the nun.M-al prod.u-,ts, if any ; ;ii.d d the la.id he ot a tolerable extcM.t, a meridional rlis^ tiuice may he measured. Other matt.Ts of interest ard ii;.v.'lty would occur to a scientific and skillful observer, ihese are mere speculations, tin-own out at random, hut iiiity serve, among other suggestions, as objects of atten- tion. •' Captain 8h- Edward Pany havi.ig now concluded his fiith voyng,, „,to the Arctic regions, in four of wliich ho fonmianded, and was second in the otln-r, a.id there be- lli- no tarthor attempt iu contemplation at the conclusion ot the last voyage to continue the s.-airh, he deemed it expedient to close his honorable and useful naval career iif l.-;ist m sea-gomg ships. It may, th.-refore, not b.. out ot place here to put on record u memorandum of the vaiuiible services rendered to his countrv in various sit- •'iitions, and to tin, navy in particular, with whose hitor- ests \w IS still connected. It has been stated, in the first Arctic voya-e, in what "'■inner he was introduced iiilo that line of service, by •"■lug selected to command one of the discovery ships. l:]l;j. The Alexander, a. lieafenMut commaii.lin-. beia- sec- Olid to ( oiiuiKiiidcr Koss. l.'SH). The [kM'la.-Appniutcd ms lirutenant to conimnnd her, 'ind as cuiuiuauder of the expedition : two \vtirs 1) •' ' 1 ; ir; h "..i ni /^ ^w VJ ARCTIC VOYAfiHS. lV,-20, 'I'll.- I'nrv piMim Ir.l lis rain III mil li,l (•ii[)t;iiii ill .NtivfiiilM r, l.'l'Jl. //'/•, !lll(l to til Iviiucfcl to tlif r ink i>[ .1!V:;;J. Acting,' liydrou'i-iipli.T to tlir Admiralty, 102:3, in ih ni( nil ol' (';i|il;iiii I liii'd, dcccMsi-d. l!!-Jl. Ilrcl;!. — \|)|>oiii1rd iis ciiptiUll (tlioili,dl only U hln(i|ij iiiid :is coiiiliiiilidcr oltlif* rxpcditioii. Acting' hyilroLTiiplifr, sfcond iippointiiit'iit, tlx; vu- ciiiicy not liM\ iiii,' Iicimi lillcd ii|). }Pr2i\. Ajipointrd to the coiiiniiind ul' tiio Ilecla, and of th" <'\|)('dilioii toward tli(> North Pole. ll')27 . Tliii'd a|)|)oiiitmciif as iiydroirra|thci', and roiitiniird tu art until May. Ill','!>: and in tlio same yaw rcccivid tiif lioiior ol kni;,ditliood. l{csii:ii(Ml the silualion (it liydroi:ra|)lii'r, and Captain Ik'aulinl uppuiutt'd, wlio still holds it. IfJO!'. Went out to N<'w South Wales as roinmissioucr to the \ustialian .\i:firiiltm'al Compajiy, hy pt'i-iiiis>iiiii of the Admiralty, and rt'tiinii'd in Novcniltrr, iiril. Ji^li.'i. Assistant i'oor-liiw ('oinmissi(»ii('r in Norliilk; hut lii> health lailiiii:, laid liy tor one year. 18;}?. Appointed to or;:aiii/,e the I'ackct Sen'ice, then tnuis- I'erred to the •■dmiralty. lVil\7. Aitpoinled ('ontniller of .St(^am Macliiiiory, in wliii h important situation he still remains; a nituafion th.it re<|uires all that talent and assiduous attention whii h he is kiioun to possess, and which it is to lie hii]ii(i he may loni,' continue to hold, to his own .satistaction, •And for the lienelit of the piililic service. The charac-tcr and ('(nidiict of Sir Edward Piii'iy as a captain in coniMiund of a ship ol" war inis hcon fully <'\- liihited ill the present narrative, ahriducd as it is : i)roiiipt in ditlic'ulty, cool in daiiuor, iertile in cxpediiMits, and rich iu resources, \w was never unpi'epared in the lioiir of need; to the people undtn' liis charii;<'. lie Avas kind. considerate, and attentive, and while rigidly exactiiii,^ the ])erfonnance oftlieir duties, was ever studious to adiniii- isler to their conilorts and tlieir welfare, instructing!: them that these heiielits could only ho iiccpiircMl and pi'cserved })V a strict ohe(lienc<> to coiniiiand, steady ,i:ooil coutluct. and due reuard to tlu^ duties t)f religion. If an ol'licer who has accompanied Captain I'arry in all his Arctic, and Polar voyaues were j)assed over ill si- lence, it would |)roperly \h' considered as a dei-elK tir»ii ol' justice and of duty in the writer of this muTutive. Th.o .■(■ PAKUY rf I'ULAR V()V.\(if:. o.>7 tullnwiiiir nu'inoriiiidiim of ( 'iipliilii SirJanics FJoss's scr- \i(<'s will put the reader in possession ul' jiii aljstruct of \\ liiit lie lias performed : III \pril, li;|-,', li(> eiitei'cd the Tiavv. j'^' r Volunteer lirst class, iiiidshipniaii, and mate with Cm- ,,, .> I iiiandf-r itoss. i;:i:!. Admn-alty niid^liipiiiaii in the Isal.rlJi, m Cotmnaiider Ross's veyai.'e of discovery to the \ relic Seas, l;:il>, > Admiralty iiiidshi|)maa in the llecla in Captain I'ar- );;-.'l). ( ry's (ir.-t voy.i-e of discoverv to the Arctic Se;is. S Admiralty midshipman in the Vnrv in Ciiptain rarrv's second voy;i;.'e of.liscovery to the \rctic.Seas; was imide lienteniint, -Jiiih Dei'emiin-, | ;;■,>•,'. |,,.,, C Lieatenant in the Fury, Captain Hoppn. .. .'..ird voy- i;i'.-)!) '^r'' ".* ^'"1"'''" l':ii-|-y. 'J"o tlraw charts and m.ako l"0 17. I'lrst heutenant in the Hecla, Captain i'airy; accom- Itanied him ie. command of the second luiat in jjis attempt to reach the North I'ole. rromoled uu his return, f!lh Novenilter, l;!-:»7. 2!> Hn private steam-vessel Victory. > VUu tlu! 1st of .)(me, I!;:n. planted the rnion-jack (.ii i:J. ) the .North .Mai:netic Pole. ( )n his return, presented by the Colle;,^,. ,,f Arms with an addition lo the anus of Ko.ss, representini,' the Hair tlvin,:,^ on the Ma:,'- iietic rolt>, with additional cre>t, "on a rock, "i ll;i::-slatV erect, thereon hoi>ted the rnion-jack. in- scrihed with the date, 1st .June, i;):il." li;:il. IVomoted to the rank of ca[)t:iiii, ■2r,\\i Octolier, K!;i }. I ;;;!.'). Kmployed makini: m;ii,'netic oliservatiftns preparatory _ to commenciiii.' the ni;i;/:.etic survev of I'.n-l.iiid. " I'V-iC). Ca|)taiii in thi> ship comiriissioned hv the \dmiraltv, sent in seio-ch of the missinj,' wlrders, in the dejttli of wintei-." \'!.''n' U'"'P'"y<'d, at the desire of the Lords Commissioners Jo;io. 5 ol the Admiralty, in determiuinL' the \ariati(ui of the compass on all parts of the coast (.f (Jreat lirit- ■ On a rci)n's..|itatioii from Hull tliat clrvni wIimIc sliij.s i.n.l six- hun- iliv.l 111. u wvrc 1, II 111 thr icr Mri.l ill ,i„ii-..r of ]M.ri^liiii-. and nTiui-tia" Il.r A.lminilry r... s.n.l out ivlicf, ('Mptain .laiurs Ross voliii.tcrrr,! to "i> uut in tlip (i.'ptli ol winrn-, „ii(l the three heutriiNiit-, Crozier, iniiiiin ami Umiiiaimey with thr three mates, .lesse, liuehan, ai„l .iojm .t ot l)erei.i'ner, and after a storiiiv vovaire arriveil in Da- VI- s .-trait when lie loiind nine of the lui.-sin- ships were livfhat time ii» l-.llu'land. that tlie tenth wa> released ,.„d on lier |ia.-sa-e.'aiid the elev. ciilh wa^ probably lust, as sojne of 1i,t <-asks had lii.'.ai lucRed up m ^eu /! ;i f f li: I. M ( i' I ' Auc'i'ic v«»v\i;i;h. ;ilii, Mini llii- "I'lii'iiil iirc'iii'lic siii'\'<'V lur (li'tiTiirfi- ill:: 1 1 II I III n III III I he tiiiii' nt r(|ii;il v ;ii'i:iliiiii, ili|i. iiiid iiilcii-il\ . ill iniijiiiiclioii Willi rinli'SMir IJmmI, ('ii|. unci S.ilillic. ;ili(l l'lnrc'--.(ir rililli|»s, ill till' li'i|iir,| ol llir I'l il i-ll \<>iiri;il|i>n. Ami ImmIv, riuiii i:;:i:Mo I;: |:{, Ciiptiiiii II. M.S. i;n.. Iiii-. ill ( i>iiiiii:iimI 111' the \ iil.'irct ic i;\|H'ililiiiii. |:tlll M.'in ll, I :; I I, I'l'criM'il ihc liniinr nl' kllijllllnnil. '.•mil .hiiir. I:; I I. linn. I). C. 1... Ovliinl. I{i'(ri\ril ;.'n!i| li|i'il;ils i 'I' ( ici il;i;i[i|| icill Si iiii ■! ii •> iit KiiLil.'iiiil mill III I' laiK I'. It will lie seen tliiil .M f. .1 iiiin's (iiuw Sir. limit's) Kh^s liiis risen liy rc^iiliif ui'iiiiiiliiMi iVnm tin' Inwcsl in ||ii> Iniilicst liink in his pntt'cssiini. iiiid tu tin* linnurs In- imw vs. I»v liis iiiildiit i'.:;il)lt' /.ciil. scll-liiii^lit iiliililifs, ainl (lili^iMici*. It is dill' to liiiii. tlit'Cft'iin', in tiilxiii^ l(>;i\n ol' Ills Arctic hilini's. ill tilt' siiiiif tiiiif with his rrit'ml iiirl I'tmiiiiiiiitliiii; iillicfr Sir I'iilwiinl I'lirry.tt) fxpit'ss ;i cmi- victitHi. in cttiiiiiitni with ihiit nl' his hrnthfr itllici'rs umI jissdciiitt's, t hilt few iiicn ptisscss, in ii nmrt' t'liiinciit ili ■ urcf. tilt' t|iiiilitit's ri'ijuiri'il in iimst iiriliimis iiltcMipl-. 'I'll il slrti'i^ iiml \ ii^Kitiiis coiisiitiit UMI. iiihI linilily pnw- fis III' ntitirilinin y kiml. .Iiiint's Kuss luiitcs iin iinli'iil Imn (•!' t'litcrprisc. ii (ii'tt'nniiu'd pcrsfvcriinct' in thf iiliiim- niiMit tif his iilijrt t, iiinl ii i liinl iiniliiiintt'il hy ii>lliciill\ tir iliini^t'r. Tu these i|iiiirnies iniist lie inMeil lh;il ml- \iiiici'ineiit in iiii\ i':,;it inn. iistniiiiiiiiy. iiiitin'iil histnry. iii,(| iillier liiiiiiches III' science which lew iiiiviil t»riict'is ciin liiiiisl el', lint which were such ;is litled him pecnliiirly tnr selection ti» the ciimiiiiiiid nt' the recent Antiirctic l-lNpe- ditinii. I'tir the results el' which, t'l'tmi his |)en, piiliFK' e\- peetijtion is mure than iisiuilly ulive. i I CAPTAIV JOIIV FKANKUV. en A I 'Ti: II X, lHi:»_>j()_>ji_:;j.j. S'.irra/lrr of >r Jounn ,, I,, Ihr Slnn-r^ of H,r 1>nl„r Srn ]W I \lll-(lltl()ll. TiiM cxprdiii,,!!, iitnl.T flip (oMimiuKl (.(■ CnrMriiiiiulcr (now (';i|)liiiii Sir . I., 111.) |."n,„|J,M, |,„s ih,| .„,!v iiddcl ^HMlly lo tlui iir(»-rii|)liy, ucolnnv, 1,11(1 iiiitiiiar liish.ry '•I lliiil ix.iliuii (,f tlii^ Murthcni cunsf of Nc.rtli Aincricii witliii) tln' Arctic rriiiuiis, lint inorc cs|.("ci;illv to tliaf, mIiicIi Noidns on the suiitlicni slinccs nf ih,. rohir Sc;i ; ■r.\A liiis ills., cuiitriliiitt'd iiir-cly tu, idid (inuly rstfil.lisli- 'd. tliiit cstmi!il(^ of the plivsicMl. iiicntal, and moral ' !i;iiactci- of I'.ritisli scanu-ii --c(|iially ^ood when scrv- M)U on shore as allnat — wlii(di we Ki'i-lishuKui had loiii,^ l"iin.'d, and of whi'Uliips attendin- it. onr only tell, and that one hy th(^ ui'iiderous hand oi an assassin. A li-lit. bnovunt heart u ; i ViMO AiMTtt; vovA«a:H. ti riillllilriii'i' III tlli'ir own iiiiwrl'^, sii |>| iiil'lrt I li\ ;i Mini I'rli.it oil .'I IIH'lI'lll I I' II l\ llll'IMC, IH'\ (■{■ U||( I' lull k tl lire H'lll. Mill' .|||. Iiiril llir ;i|i|i|'u;irll iil ili->|)iiiii|i'iir\ , litit hmilu'llt lili'lll >;tli ly lllliMI:;l| Mlrll ||ii>c|-\ ill .1 .ll>l lOS ilH lilH Iv.il t'St'V, lliivr I Ml! Ill' Mill Nil. )i I II Till* li\(* |) tlisciivny of ii muiIIiw isl pilSMi^i', lilil tl) sii|i|)|y till' iiiriiiis III' rilrilitiililli: iilir. simI to I'Mi'Mil til)' <:rii^i'ii|iliy III II |)iil't III the I'oliir i'r;;liiiis M'l \ littli' known; l>iir/(ir liiilni iilsnii, ii iiii\;il siii::ritii, now Mriliriil liis|ii'rloi' of tlio Ivoyiil NjisjiI I los|iiliil iii " To Ihiiliir liiihiifil^i'ii, in |)iii'tiriiliii'," Sir II isliir lolMi snvs. tl II' r\ilnsi\i' ini'iit is iliii' ol w linli'Vi'i' cul- Icrlions mill oltscrviilions jiiivi' Ihtii niinli' in tlio ilr|iiiit- inriit of iiiitiifiil liistoi'x ; iiiiii I iiiM indolitrii t i liiin in im sniiill (Irurrr lor liis iVii'mily ndviri' iiiiii iissis!)inc»< in llii- pii'piiiiitioM ol till' |iirscMl imrnitivi'. T'lo \|>|ii'miIi\ (ii|iwiiiil oltwo liiiiiiliTil ;iMil I'i^lity payrs) is iiioslly Ins own." |)o(tor Kiclianlson vojiinli'cn'd l'» ncroinpiiny (aplain h'tanklin on Ins socond oxpi'dition to tlio slmn's .Illii- Polar Si'a : also :Mr. d Ihirk and Mr. Rnl,- II- ( rt lldi'i/, Adiniralty inidsliipnii'n, to make ohsrrvalioi ilrawin^s ol' tlio land, ol' llio nativi's, and ohjocts ol" mil ral liisU>ry. tlu« Ioiimit of w lioni is now ('aplain Sir (Ji'orm' IJack, and iho lattoi' was thr victim (aliovi' allinl- «'d to) of an assassin. TIm' lil'lli was Jolni lli jilmrn. n \v\u\ i'ailliriil. and altiTtionato Kni;lisli seaman, and tlii-ir UN, only iitlondant, who. on tlio (■onclusion ol tho cxpiMlitii was dosi'ivcdiy r 'wardi-d with a pi'inianont situation in out' 1)1" the dockvards, ()|"lhis seaman, tho testiiiionv ol Sir .Id hn I- raiiklm is too valnahle to he omi tted. .\iid heie." he says, '• I nuist lie permitted to pay the triliiiti (lite to the tidelitv, exertion, and umlorm yood eoiiiliii'l, in the most tiyiiiu situations, ol' .lohii ilephnrt;, an lliiu- lish seaman, and our only attendant, to whom, in the latter part ot our journey, we owe, muler Divine I rovideiwe, the preservation ol" the lives of some ol' the party."' The iustruetions whieh Krankliu received I'rom Miiil >athurst, hy whom he was appoin ite4l. on tl M' recoiii meiidaliou ol tlie Loids ( 'ommissiouers of the Aihnir lulrodiic'lioii. niAVKr.iN A\t) nnFi audhon'h jmi unky. ii.ll t\, inrnniinl liilii tltiit llic MiliitI (ilijrrl ul' tlir )'\|iri|itit)t) WHS In «>\|iliii'f iIm- nni'thiMii const nl \in*'n(-ii, rrniii tlio iiiiiiilh (il tlu^ ( 'u|)|iri- NliiH' Kivrr ti) till' riistWiiol ; to la\ (Imwii tlir liiH'. or tiriiillfii:, ol tliiit roust, iis I'jir lis In till' I'll sir III r\ I in inly ol lliiil. rout iiiriit ; in slmi I, lo In Km nil nii'iiiis lor ollttlllllll^ iii'ciiriitt* inroriniition n'spri-linir tl>->( lllil. Iiii\l-Il IIIKi iki i'liliwl \liil it ItJ til lllii t> fi *i\ it ikt ' \ f^W: n^ M ll •( M I 232 ARCTIC VOYAGES. Fnuikliii culled it at tlic tiino, allnidfd n sample of liis eii^ei'iiess aini eiieriry. and ;iave to I5acl\ himself a ifeii- lle speciiiHMi of wliat Ik^ was doomed theieafl«u' to un- ver. they arrived in safety at Vork l''actory, in Hud- son's I>ay, on the ."((Mil of Ansxnst. Here ihey were cor- dially I'eceived Ity the i;overn(»r and sei'vants of th«( \\iu\- .son's P)ay ('onii)any, and wer(^ ftii'iiished hy them with u boat of tile larj:;est size, well stored with j)rovisi((ns and annnmiition. 'is imich as sIk^ conid carry. They were also fmnished with letteis to all their agents in the sev- eral factories in the conntry, directinji them to miv(^ ev- ery possible assistance towai'd fm'therim; thi^ object of th«» expedition. Herc^ also they had the iictod fortnne to iiKM^t with several ot the partners of the Northwest ( 'oni- pany, from whom they also received thi^ most frietidly and full assurance of the cordial endeavors of the winter- ind lualer a salute of eiyht uuns and three cheers, whicdi they |[jratet"ully returned, and made all sail. The route was settled to be by ( 'umberland I louse, and thi'ouiih the chain of I'osts to the (Jri'at Slave F^ake. It is not deemed necessary to notice \\w nuiltitude of ,11 FR.WKLIX AND RICHARDSOn's JOURNEY. 233 lakos, rivors, pnitn^cs. juid tlic iiiiiiicrcms diniciiltics aiul iiri|)t'iits wliicli lirsrl llic liiuclcr tliroiiyhoiit liis ur- (luous joiiiiicy ill the iioitlieiii rt'yioii.s ot' Aiiirricii, thos*) liaviiiii l)(MMi so fiT(|ii(Mitly dcscrilxMl by various travrltM'S siiici' tlic tiiiic ol" I learnt! and Maclxcii/ic. Suriice it to say tlmt, iVom tlic tiiii»! of tlu'ir Icaviiii: York Factory on tilt' !ltli of St'|)tt'nil)fr, to tlitur arrival at ( 'iiiiilx-ilaiid lloiisi) on \\w "JJd ot" October, tlu'V hail traveled over ii distance of very nearly seven iinndred miles, with and against tlie streams of some ten dil'ferent rivers and niiio lakes, to say nothing of rocks, ra|)ids. and portages. The charts and views, fi'om the ohservatior;s and pencils ot Messrs. Hood and liack, atfoi'd a more clear description than any written accoimt could convey. Tlie services of iheso two officers in tiiese ami other respects were (»f iiicalculaltle benefit, and hiuhly sp(»ken ot' by the coin- jntinder of the exprihtioti. Nothinj; could exceed the Uitwhiess of the jiOveriHtr of Fort Ciimbeiiand: he foi-thwi:h set about enlar^iiiii the pii'inises, to make this their intended winter (|uarteis as convenient and aureeable as possible. IJut I*' raiiklin, af- ter many coiivtM'sations witli ( Jovernor \\'iHiams, and oth- er iicntlemeii in chaii^e ot' noi'thern posts, was convinced <»f tlie necessity of proceedliii:. diiriiii,' the winter, into the Athobasca department, to the northward of tlie (Ireat Slave ljak(s from whence, only. I'uides. hunters, and iii- teipreters were to be j)rocured. I le therefore re(|uested (ioveinor Williams that he mi;iht be furnished, by the nilildle of .lanuary. w'-;'' the means of conveyance for tiiree persons, havin<: jnevionsly arranged tliat Messrs. iJack and Ilepbiu-n should accompany him, wliib I )r. Richardson and Mv. Jlood should remain till the spring at ( 'umberland House. This arrangement was qi!i,f. consistent with tlie truM character of Franklin ; whenever an arduous, se 're, or inconvenient si'rvice was to be performed, he was always ready to relieve the [)arty he comniande(l from the bur- den, aiul to undertake it himself. With this view, on the IHth of January. l-'Jii. Frank- lin, with Ihick as his companion, and the faithful Hep- burn, took leave of Dr. Kicliard> >u and Mr. Hood, who were tu follow with their bau;:ai:e in the spring. iJut, n '1 ill i ii ! :«T^ 1) ' 231 ARCTIC VOYAGErf. hoforo laUint^ n hi-H'T view of flio oxpoditioii of the first tlircif to ( "iiilton House, iiiid thciKM! to Fort Chipewyiiii, it iiiJiy he expccht-iit to {ilaiicc! over the pntreediiiiis of th(! two latter at ('iimberlaiid I louse, to wliich a cliaplcr is separately appropriated iu tlie iiarrativt\ 'Plie (hstrict of ( "uiulierlaiiil is stilted by Dr. Kicliardson to coiitnin upward ol" 'JO, 0(10 sipiare miles, is peopled hy ahout Ijo Indian hunters, most of them married, with an average ot livtt to each family, or the^ whole Indian population may \n'. estimated at "J.'jOO. 'j'hrir mode of lite sulijrcis them to yreat privations ; the hoopinii-couu;h and mca- sli's at this tune were spreadiiiij throuiih the whole trihe : niany died, and most of the survivors wei'e so enl'eelijed as to l)(^ unahle. to j)ursue tlie necessary avocations of hunliiiii and fishing: the scenes of misery were; lieart- rendiny, and the lew who liad escaped ilist.'ase were not ul)l(* to all'ord rtdief to tlie sullerers. '• ( )iie «'V('iiiiii:. in the month of Jamuuy (says Dr. Richanl- poii). a piKir Indian entered the .Northwest ('onipany's House, carrvin-,' liis oiiK child in liis arms, juid followed I»y his stai'v- ini: wile. 'J'liey had been liuntinii apart from the other l)aiiil:<, had heeii unsnccesstid, and while in want were seized wiili the epidemical disease. An Indian is accustomed to star\e, and it is not eiisy to elicit iVom him an accoinil of his.lv reduced to teed ou tbe bits ot sUia and olVal wliicli remained iiltout tlieir encampment. l",\eii this miserable tio'e was exhausted, and lliev walked several davs w ithout eiitini:. vet exerliui.' them>elves iiir beyond their stie!ii,'tli. that tlii'V mil/lit save the life of the intinit. It I'jed almost within sii,'lit of the liou>e. .Mr. Connelly, then iu charire of the post, n'celved them with the utmost iiumanllv, and iu>taullv placed fond before tln-m ; but no luminaL'e c;ni describe the maimer in which the miserable futher dashed the morsel liom bis lips, and de|ilored the loss of his child. Mi>ei-v mav haideii a disposition naturally bad. hut it never fails to sohi'u the heart of a i.'ood man." — I'. (iO, (!l. ,'\ iireal part of the chapter is employeij in a minute account of the Crees, or, as nanuvl by the French ( a- iiadians. Knist»Mieau\. .Al uidi ciu'ious iidormatiou reyard- iiiii their manuei's. customs, and characti'r is developed, and a|)parontly on correct authority, hut the detail woulil "W" FRANKLIN AND RICH ARDSON'.S JOLRNEV. 2.'i5 lie out of pliirc in tlic |)i'('s('nt naiTntivc. Tt miiy snfFico, tlicrt'torc, to iiivc tlic (loctor's (-(tii. hi.ioii, wIhm'c he siiys, '• We iiiJiy stiitc tlici Crccs to Ix? ii viiiii, tickle. im])rovi- ilciit. imd'i.idolrnt inct«, mid not very strict in tlicir iid- licrtMicc to truth, hciiisx ^rcat houstt i> ; .it, on tlio oth- er hiiiid. they strictly rc^u'iird the risilits ot' property, lire) siisce|)til)I<' of the kinder idlections. ciipiil)le of Irieiidshi]), verv hospital)le. tolerably kind to their women, and with- al inclined to peace." He then ijives an instance of their kind feelinu; toward the softer sex. "An Indian visited tlie fort in the winter. Tho i)Of»r man's wife had lost lier feet hv th<^ frost : this com|)elled him not only to iiiiiit. hut to do all the menial oflices himself, and in the winter, to dras; liis wife, with their stock of fui-nitur<', fidiii one encampment to another. In the performanco of this duty, as he could not keep ])ace with the rest of the trilte.he more than once nearly perished of huii<;er." In such a mode of life, in such a country, and in such society, it would he too mucli to expect a state of refuie- nient. Or of UKual |)urity. even in females of the better part of the commmiity, es[)ecially when the male pur- lion of it is so debast'd. " 'I'lie j:irls at the forts, ])Miticuliirly the dau^lifers of Cana- tliiuis, nrc iriveii in iii:iri-iime very yoiiiiL' ; tliey are very fre- (lilfiitlv wives at twelve yeais of aire, and iiiolhcrs at fourteen. .N;iv, more than one instance came under our observiition of tlie master of a post liavinir pei'mitted a voyairiM- to lid\e to wife ;i poor cliild that had scarci'iy attaineil the ai:e of ten vr;irs. 'fill- masters of posts iind winterini,' partners of com- panics deemed this criminal iiidnlueiice to the vices of their M'rv;ints neiirv to stimulate them to exertion for the in- terest of their re.-pe(tive concerns. Another pnictice m.iy iil>o be ii. It has been states! thf.t on the l^^tli of .Tanuary. 1 HJi). Sir John Franklin, .Mr. Ihick, and .lohn Hepburn lell (Juniberlaiid llous(^ for Carlton 1 louse, to proceed iVoin thence to K(»rt Chipewyan, tluMui to make preparation lor pniceediny; to the nortlierii coast. A circumstantial ac- count is tfiveii ot" the mod(^ of traveling:, of the rivers, lakes, and |)ortaiies. of the posts of the two comiiaiiies, of the snows that fell, and the numerous hardships tli;it the traveler in winter must necessarily undergo, daily and nijihtly, till lie arrives at liis destination, and the close of the spring initigates the severity of the temper- W "■»■ ^m 1 ( nous wil- : ('riiii\ ,1 Uil ; one, A'l)«.'rri<'s, ■rs, plcti- i(l.s. ( H' (.' 1I1(IIIS(( Cil (leer, llllti'lopc. IIS kiliiis. /wt ; tlid lie ottri-, t' lu'iii'ly CO is tlio le sliorcs , itnd (liitf jreatuic. iK'cdotus "(Isoii ro- ly. <>s[)ii'il iqxia tint il: ii tliMii- Icr ci)\(i- lilli.' Clf,!- i a simili- ses ot iii- lltlclll.'lIIH )iild liavo •y, Ir'-Jl), i)uni l«'l'i •ed tVoiii •afi(»ii lor iiitial Hc- •' rivers, iiipanies, hips that ^^o. daily and tlu^ tfiiii)cr- IRAXKLIN AND llICHAIlDSON'ri JOUllXEV. 237 fitnre. Wluif the stato of tliat toinpoi'atiiro liad heeri lidiii tlie iHth of .lamiiiry to the -Jiith of Marcli. wlieii tlie party reacheil ( 'hipewyaii, thero is no riu'oni, I'or a reason explained by FranUlni. wlio says that "lliiseven- iii:i (I'^th of .laniiary ) W(i fouml iho inercwry of onrtlier- iiKMneter had sunk into th(^ bulb, and was tVo/eii. It ni>e ai;ain into the tube on beiuij; helfl to tin* lire, l)ut ([uicUly reih^.scended into the l>ulb on beiiii; I'enioved info the ail' ; we eoidd not, therefore, ascertain by it the Iimm- peraturo of the atmosphere, eithi-r then or (hirinj; our JDurney. Mr. Hood, however, who nia(h* a journey iVmn (Cumberland House to the I5as(piiiin Hill, not far finni the former, states in his journal, that on the '2-')\h (if March the thermonu'ter fi'll in the open air to 1')^ hi'low zero, although it I'ose the followinii day to (iO^ above it. Tha sudden clian^es that take places in the !ii)rlhei-n parts of Xorth Anu-rica are very reinarkalile. On the l.'jth of Apttil Mv. Hood records that "the lirst sljower of rain tell w»; had seen for six montiis, and on the 17th the thermometer rose to 77^ in the shade." lie also observes that, "on th(^ lOtli or I'Jth of April, the return of the swans, }j;eese, and ducks gave certain iudi- calions of tht< advance of spring. " '.rile warm w«'allier, by the sudden meltiuii of the snow and ice, deluded the face of the country, and gave rise to a remark of .Mr. Hood, the truth (»f which has liccii j)roved by many we||-atteste(l facts. He says, " tli(! noise made by the fi-ogs .vliich this inundation pi'o- iliiced is almost incredible. Theie is strouj^ i-eas(»n to liflieve that they outlive the severity of winter. They have often been found fro/.cMi. and I'evived by Wiirmth; nor is it possible^ that the multitude which incessantly lilliMl our ears w'ith their disciu'dant notes c(udd havi" been matured in two or three days." Stroni;; doulits had lonif Itefore this been entertained of the correctness of the fact liei'e stated, but experiments made by compet(Mit per- sons [)roved that not only tVttgs, but leeches, suiiils, i:rubs, fishes, and other animals, could be frozen by artilicial cold, and revived, h was farther ascertained that fro^s woidd rtjvive if the heart even was iVo/.eii, but that il tile brain was concealed, lite became so irrecoverably e.\- liiK.'t that Jiot only could no degree (if warnitli produce i ) t hi . ♦'i' 1 238 ARCTIC VOYAtiEri. I! symptoms of rorovrry, but tlio aiiinial was rondorcd in- fapat.lo ot liciiiif aUcctcd l)y tlic f^alvanic action. " I have fV('(|ii('ntly," says llcanie, '* scmmi iVo^s dujf up with tin' moss, iVo/iMi as liard as ico, in which stato t\u'. lo^s aid as easily hiokcu oil' as a pipesteiii : but," lie adds, "if they Iwi pormitted to iVeezo again, they aro past all rc- covcM'y." Captain Franklin also notices the resuscitation ol" fish- es alter being frozen : " It may ])c worthy of notice here, that the fish froze us they were taken out of tin; nets, and in a short tiua; hecaiiK! a solid mass of ic(>, and ])y a blow or two of the hatchet wen; easily s|)lit open, wIkmi the intestines miiiht bo removed in «)iif; lump, li' in this com|>letely fro/j-n state they wen- thawed before the fire, they recovered their aMimiitioii, This was [tarticularly the ciise with the carp, and we hml occasion to observe it i'e[teMtedly,;iS i)i'. Hichaivlson occupied himself in ex" nininir the slnicturo of the ditVerent spj'cifs nt iish, and was always, in the winter, nndi-r the^ ne(;essitv of tliawiii>,' them bct'ori' hi' could cut iIkmu. \Ve have seen a carp recover so far as to leaj) about with much vigor after il had been frozen for thirty-six hours." — V. 'J lU. Nay, it may bo stated that the same etlect is produced on tli(^ insect ti'ibe. It is reported by Mr. KIlis, that at the Hudson's l»ay faetoiy, a black, tVo/en mass of a ])eat- like substance being brought before the fire and thawed, there came from it a cloud of living musquetoes. Cap tain liuchan observed myriads oi" insects frozen on X\ui surface of a lake in Newfoundland, and imbodied in the solid ic«^ ; the next day, by the powerful rays of the sun, they wei'e loosened from durance, became reanimated, and took their llight into the air. Mr. Hood, in his journey, also makes an observation of a dillerent kind regarding this most annoying animal. " We had sometimes before ])r()cured a little rest by clo.v- im,' the tent and burnitii,' wood or llashiiig giuipowder witli- iii, the smoke driving the muscjuetoes into the crannies of thi! ground. Hut tliis remedy was now inelfectual, though wo employed it so persevei'iiigly as to hazard sut^itcation ; they swiiiined tnider our blankets, goring us with their enveu- onied trunks, and stcn-ping our clothes in blood. We rose at daylight in a lever, and our misery was uuiuitiguted duriuij our whole stiiv. .r}-i-,' FRANKLIX ANU UlCllAUDriON'ri JUURNEV. 'SM) " The food of the iimsrineloo is Mood, which it can rxtnict by jiciK'tialiiii: thf hide of a IjutlUlo; and if it is not disturl>- cil, it goi-f^t's itself so as to swell its body into a tran-parent ■'Injje. Tlie wound does not swell like tliat of the African miis(inotoe, hut it is inhnitely more painful ; and when mul- tiplied a liundred fold, and continued for so many successiv(? (lav-*, it becomes an evil of such mairnituth-, that cold, fam- ine, and eveiy other concomitant of ar. inhospitable climate Tiiust yield \\w ])re-emiiu'nce to it. It chases the butfalo t(» the plains, irritating him to madness; and the reindeer to the sea-shore, from which tliey du not return till the scourge has ceased."— P. !«», VM. To return to Captain Franklin and his coinpaniun l»ack. A description is ffiven of the sli'diies, the coracles, the snow-shoes, and tlio clothing of a winter-traveler in this cold aiid dreary climate, a repetition of which wcmld af- ford but littlo entertainment to tho general reader. Dr. Jvichardson, in his account of the Crees, says that tat- tooing is as common among them as in tin; Oriental Isl- ands, notwithstanding it is a most ])ainful o])eration : " a half-breed, whose arm I amputated, declared that tattoo- ing w^as not only the most paiid'ul operation of the two, but iidinitely more difficult to hear, i)y its tedionsness, having, in his case, lasted three days." Captain Frank- lin has also some notices of the Crees, but is more par- ticular resj)ecting the Stone Indians, residing near the ( 'ompany's post of Carlton House ; " they are nun-e i)re- poss(!ssing," he says, "in their looks, l)ut aildicted to tiiieving. smd grossly and habitmilly trea( herons, '{"heir countenances are affable and pleasing, tiieir eyes largei and exjH-essive, nose aiiuiliin', teeth white and regular, the forehead hold, the cheek-bones rather high. Their tigure is usually good, above the middle size, with slench'r hut well-})roportioned limbs. Tlu^ir color is a light cop- ])er, atidthey hav«! a prolusion of very black hair."' I Jack has supplied a very striking portrait. Tluiy steal w hat- ever they can, partictdarly horses, maintaining that tliey are common property sent by the Almighty for the gen- eral use of man, and thei'ei'oi-e may be taken wherever met with. This avow«'d dis])osilion calls for tlu? strict- «'st vigilance tit the several posts. •• In the alternoon of tin- -Jfilli of March we had the l)leasure of arriving." says Captain Franklin, "at Fort II' >. i }i !' VK 111 I t \.^l H ■^ yio AU( Tit: VOVACJC.-^. ( 'lii])i'wyiin, niid iIiih IcnuiiiMlJ'd a wintci-'s jtninicy nl' ri'ilit liiiiidrcil iimi litty-scvfii miles, iti tin* proLTcss of' ANliicli tlu'ic WHS ii uroiil iiilri-iiii\tiirt5 ol" iiiiitH'iildc imd disairicciiblc circumstaiiccs. hal llU'tMl, won I.I I )r('i)i»ii( If-nit Tlie latter, ho tliiiiks, if (!, and tliat walUiii;; in snuw- shoes was anmni; llie most pniminent. ^J'o tlie inexpcri- t.Miced, indeeil, tht^ snlleiiiii^ occasiuned hy wall^iM^ in snow-shoes appears to lit' dr«'adl'nl, "and can he hut iaintly imairined hy a pers(ai who thinks upon the iticon- veiiience of marcliiiii; with a w«'ii:;ht ot hetween two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet and swell- «•( lanki es. r>ut Mr. Hood will hest descrihe. it. " The miseries ( iidured dnriiiLr llie (ir-^t joui'uey of fin's aa- lurc are so i,'i'e;it, ihiit nnthiii;^ cduld induce tiie sulliwer fn nndcrlaUe ii second wliile under the inlliience of pnsciil p;iin. lie feels his fianie ( ru^hi d hy un;ic((iuntai)le |>ir.s- Ufc, he (h'ML's a L'alllni: and sluhlinrn w.'i^'lil at his ii'ct, iuid his li'ai'li is marked witii !)li)ii(l. 'I'lii! da/./.Tnij,' scene an ;i:iil him :itlitrds no n->\ 1o his eye, ntt oi»jecl to divert lii> atteniinn from his own aL.'oni/iii,L' sensniions. ^^'hen h" ri.-es iVoni slrrjt. Irilf iiis lioilv >('eiir-< dead, till (Hiicketied into tcclinu' l)v the irritalion of his sores. But. fortunately li>r lii..i, no evil makes iin impression so evanescent as pain. It can not he wholly hiinished, nor recalled with the lla'ce of realilv, by any act of the mind, eitliei' to atleet our determinations, or to sympaliiize \v ilh another. The traveler soon for''ets his sutK-riiiL's. and at every lutin'e journey their reeinTence is attended with diminished acuteness." — !'. 17;5, 17 1. I'l'eparations were foithwith to ho made at Chipewy- an tor prosecutiiiii the main ohject of the ex])edit ion, and in the consnltation Avith the |)riiaipals (tf tlio two irreat rontendinu companies, Fi'anklin, hy his persiiasivi' and conciliatini!; manneis, hj'ouuht about a cordial desire on th(^ part (d" both to render mutual assistance to the lor- wardini; of that objert. lle'"e. too, in the earl}' part of .Inly, Im had the, sinc(M"e ;^ratilication of W(dcominii his lon'j,-separate(l friends. Dr. Kiidiaidson find Mr. Hood, wlio uri-iv(>d in perfect liealth : and h«» records tlio zetil and talents displayed by thes(« two i!;eiitlemen. aial sjxMiks in thi> hij^hest terms of approbation of the manner in 's\hich theii- several duties had boeii discharged since their seftaration. Tiu) C'hipewyii'is are the iieighhoritig tribe of tJ 10 FUANKLIV AND lUCHARDSOx'.S JOl.'RNEY. ii 1 1 nnicy nt »"_'l'rss lit 'iiltlc iiinl Ihiiiks. il" ill slKiw- iiu'xpcri- 'iilUiiiL:: III III l)r l)iit lie iiHiin- II two iiiid Mill SWL'll- ir. (if lllis ii;i- SlltVi't'cr tn of pifsciil ililc |iri'.s-- is tfct, aihl •IM" ;ii'< ;i!iil i.-. llttClllillll r'lM's iVdiii iitn trclliii; or lii..i, ii'i It Ciltl lint ot' n'iilily, rmiiiiiliniis, ton t'or^fts cuiTL'iK't,' is 1. Chipcwv- (litioii, mill \\\() irrt'iit liisivc iiiid (losirc^ on to tho i'or- ly piirt of nMrmn his Ir. Hood, S tllP ZCill 111(1 spcaiss iijiiiiKM' in iTcd Hiiico lljc of iho Sroiin Itiflimis, with I«»s.s promisiiii; fciifuroM. Init iiioio lioiK'st, null' ill their nifiimcis, niiil extremely supersti- tious. 'I'heir lent iircs hIso are iiiziiiiist them: they hii\() liroad faces, project iiii; cheeU-l»oiies. and wide nostrils, liut ^iencrally j^ood teetli and line eyes; theyaro r<*serv- ed and S(dtish ; they Ite^ with miceasinji iniportniiity CM y thiiii; they see. •• I never saw men," says Fiank- liii. "who either reciVived or liestowed a yiit with siaii had ^race ; they ulniost snatch the thiiij.' from you in ono instance, and throw it at you in tlie()ther." ()nr travel- ers tell in with a party of these people in the most I'or- lorii condition, havini: destroyed every thinjc; they pos- sessed in token of i^rief for the severe loss they had sus- tained Ity the prevailiiif^ sickness of measles, hoopiiiir- (•oiis,'h, and dysentery. " It appears," says Franklin, '•that no article is .jiai'ed by those- unhappy men when a near ndative dies; tlniir clothes and tents ar«^ cut to jiieces. their liuns broken, and every other wea|)on ren- dered useless, if some person do not lemove tlios(! ar- ticles from tluur sifjht." As some relief, liowever, to the darker shailes of their character, instances of tlndt are stated to la^ extremely rare amony them ; they also possess stronju; utfecrtion for their children. A curious example of tliis was mentioned to tln^ piirty, " »ind so well authenticated," says Franklin, " that 1 slmli venturo to jzive it in the words of Dr. Richardson's .Journal." " A youiii,' Chipewyaii hud separated from the rest of his hand l()r th(^ purpose of trenchiiiji heaver, when his who, wliii wiis his sole conipanioii, and in her llrst jire^Miaiicy, whs ^ri/ed with the pains of lahor. She died on the third day .itliT she liiid ^'iveii hirtli to a hoy. The liiishaiid was iu- ( niisdlalf'e, and vowed in his aiiizuisli never to take another weiiian to wife, hut his f,'rief was soon in S(jnu' de^rree; ah- hister of Lilo tu assist his endeavors. The force of the powerful jiassicai iiv which he was actuated produced tlit* same eft'ect in his case as it has done in some others which arc recorded : a ♦liiw of milk actually took place from his breast. He sue- LL'L'ded in rearing his child, taught him to be a hunter, and 16 X I ' ( \.\ ■# ) / M ; ^ " ^^ tr *M2 AKC'J'ic vova«;es. I m I . ( 'vvlicii lir aft.'iiiii'd the ni/f nf iiuiiilinod, (•liusr> him n wit'c IriMn llif triltc. 'I'lir old iiiuii krpt liis vow in iifvcr taking' a nc. Olid wile liiiiiM'lt', l)iil iif di'li;.'lit»'d in Iriidiiii,' his son's tliil- di'cii, und wlii'ii lii> d!iui.dilcr-iii-l!i\v ii>ed to iiilciicrt', saviiiii that it \\iis Mot the occupalioii of a man, lie was wont to it- |»ly, that hi' hud prouilsrd to thi- ;-'i-fal Master of Lit'i-, if lii, <"hihl was s|i;in'd, never to he proiid, hke the other Indian*. Jle used to ineniioii, ton, as a certain proof of the approhatioii of I'rovideiice, thiit althoiu'h he was alwa\s ohli^red to caiiv liis eliihl on his hiick wiiiie hiiiitini:. yet it never rou-ifd a moose l)y its e limes. Our inforniant (Mr. Went/.el) added, tliat he had ott- eii .seen this Indian in his old aiie, and that his lelt hreasl. even then, retained the imnsnal size it hud uciiuin^il in his occupa- tion of iinise." — 1*. l.")7, l.Jlj. Siiiiiidar as thi.s cnsc jiifiy nppt^'ii", Dr. Kicliardsuii is qiiito correct iii .sliititiy tliat tlmrc iiro otlier.s on record in W'hicli the siiiiu; ellerts precisely won; produced. iukI Hiiionii; wliicli is tliat recorded by the Hiiroii von Hiiin- holdt ill his Soiitli .\meri(;!Ui travels, and whicli some of th(^ physiolo<;ists of that day proiiotiiiced to la; impossi- ble, wliile they were achiiiiciiii; iiiid (Udendiiii; other sto- ries not less miractdous. It is not stife, in this aue of wonderful discoveries, to prononnco <,Mnatically what is inid what is not ])ossil)le. IMiysiolof^ists, ami physi- cians, and snri;eons may say, as soin(< have said, that man has not been ^dfted, as woman is. with lacteons nu- triment ; but common sense may leatl to the presumption thiit both, beinir constituted of llie same materials, and supplied with similar ylands, may, by some «'xtraor(hn}n"y circiuiistance — " th(» force of powerful passion," Jis Dr. Kichardson observes — produce like ellects. Tlit^ opiii ions of two of the mo!>t emiiHMit physiolou;ists may lure, be giv(ui. Masiendic^ says, " Tiiouifh the secretion of milk seem.s proper to women after })arturition, it ha;? been sometimes seen in virt;ins, luid even in man." — (Magendie's l*l/i/s/o!o<>i/.) And Kicherand says, "There have been known men in wliom a loni::-contimied titilla tion of the bretisls had determined so considenible an ai- fhix of the humors, that there oozed from them a whit ish, milky, saccharine fluid, not imlike tlu; milk of a woman." — (HiclnN-iind's l*/ti/s/oli)ui/.) To say that a thing is impossible is ti very easy, but not a convin- ■'i rUANK.I-I\ AM) KlLIIAKDSnv'.S J(>LKNI::V. 243 ciiiii ^V}ly of s«'ftliiic a (lispulcd question. AVlini Sic- plifiisoii coiistriictiMl the lirst railroiid liftwrcii lii\('i|)oo| iMiil ■^lilll('ln'st('|•, in'iir twi'iity yt'iirs n^o. iniil asx-itfil tliiit its spcrd would cxct'cd .sixfccn miles mm hour, it wiis Iiiiii;Ii(m| at l)y a f^rciit liiwyer (ii senior wnmuler), employed iiufimst the lull, who asserted d(»L:matic!illy that siieh )i speed was im|)o>sil)|«« ; hut Stephenson, somewhat nettled, called out, *• Instead ot" sixteen, I can very ini|)ediment was make it sixty, it necessary I-: thrown in tlie way of" estal)li>irm^ a di«i|ant electrical tel- egraph : hut the c(mlidenc(^ wliich a tew had in I'rol'e nr \V Intatstone carrierl the pomt, and a conununicatiou can now ho held with l*ortsmouth troiu Ijondon (with their two distant // ninni, even) in a very tew minutes — ■ a sin;^le signal in halt" a second: in tact, electricity re- ;:ards neither time nor space 11 ow many fiii/ios.si hili- would orrlinary people meet with in tin* agencies of In electricity, ualvi inism, and inaiiiietism, one or all o wliich may almost he looked on as tin; lite and soul of the material of our world, daily manifesting the truth that *• we ani yet only on the threshold of discovery Si lirf"or(> liis death. r llimii)hrey Davy's words, uttered but a short tinirt '^Po return, after this (hyrossion, to our vovaixers. As soon as the timnher of people to l)(» employed was com- ])leted, consistiii<^ of sixteen Canadian voyagers, their KM<,dish attendant. .Fohn Hephurn, two interpreters, to lie icceived at tlie (ireat Slave l^akiNand one* Chipewv- aii woman, and their ])i-ovisions shipped, they all em- liarked on the ISth of .July, in high glee, and the cre.WH nftho tliree canoes comnuMiced a lively paddling song on leaving the .shore, which was continued till out of sitiht nf the house. On tlu^ 'Jlth they reached Moose-deer Island, n post of the Northwest (.'ompany, and eiiiraged I'ierre St. Germain as interpreter for the Copper In- dians. On the L'Hth they arrived at Fort Providence, situated on the nortiieastern side of (rreat Slave Lake. They found hert^ Mr. WiMit/el and the second interpret- er. Jean Haj)tiste Adam. Tlie duties allotted to the former wert?. the; inanagtmient of the Indians, the siiper- intendiMicti of th(! Canadian voyagers, the ohtaining and distributing provisions and other stores, all of which ho r r Ml 211 AIICTIC VUV AG Krt. II < I was \v«!ll (|niiliti<'i| to pcrfonn, linvin^ horn twenty ycnrs in llif (•(luiiirv. HiMt;, too, lln-y wcrii wjtitrd on In ilm cliift 1)1 the Indiiiiis, niinirti Aktiilrlm. lie niidli' k NprtMrli, puipnriiiin ilia! lie rcjuici'd to sw. .such ^n-at rliict's on liiri laml ; that his trilx; was poor, hnt tht-v loved white men, who had iieen their hentM'actors ; sanl he would attend them to the end of their jonriu'V, and would do all he could to provide them with the means ol'suhsistence. l-'rankliii, ot" eourse, made a Huitahh; ac- Kno\v|ed;;ment in retui-n. ( )n the -Jd ol" August ihey left Kort Providence, on their way to tln^ ('o|)|)er Miu<< Kiver, the party consi>t- iny; of six Kn^lislimen, six Canatjiaii voyauers. and three interpreters, to which were added Akaitcho and his In- d.aiis. 'Die details of the journey as I'ar as l''(M"t Knter- priso, on the hanks of Winter Lake, the difficulties thai occurred in the navi<^ation of the numerous rivers and lakes, and the crossiiiii of portaiies, could yive little or iki informati(Mi of inti'rest. to the j;eneral reader, and nIuiII tliereforo he omitted. Sullice it to say, thai after nu- merous dil'ticnlties, expt!rienc<'d from scarcity of provi- sions for the party that attended them, impeiliments of Muvination, and the s»>vere lahor of the frecpu-nt porta^^es, thoy were ylad to arrive, on the "JOtli of August, after a ^slow and tedious |)rojfress. at tlie spot where it was de- cided to winter, and wliich was distant ahout ').')() miles from (v'hi|)t^wyaii. Captain Franklin stales their journey hri«!lly thus : '■ The counted length of th(» poitajres we had crossed since leaviuj^ Fort I'mvidenct^ is twenty-one stJitute miles aiitl a half; aad as our men had to traverse each portajje lour tiim- with a load of ]!>0 ixMnuls, and return three times lij^litjiirs walked la the whole upward of tnie hundred and lifty miles. Tin* total leiiL'th of lair voyage hum Chipeuyan is five liuii- dred and lifty-lhiee miles. In the afteniiMni (he says) we rejid rlivine service, and otlered our ihanksLMvinLT tf> lla; Al- mii.dity for his froodin'ss in havinir hmu^dit us thus far on our journey; a duty which we never neglected, when stationary, on theSiihhath." IJeforo the termination of the last journey, however, the Canadian voyagers hecame discontented, and threat- ened not to procei'd ftUAvard unless mort; food was giv»'n to tliein ; and Franklin, after addressing tliein in the i-i" i V 1 M I ' 1 FRANKLIN AM) RICH ARDS()\\s JolRNHV. '^1") stroimcst iniimHT on the (liniircr nf iii«.iiliitr'iiiiiiti(ni. mid his (It'lrniiiimtiiiii to iiilhrt the hriivirst |MiinshniiMit (Hi iuiy who should rt'l'iisc to procrod, admits that thrir hnidsliips wet'c ot' II kind timt t't>NV would Hiipport with- out iiiunniiriii^', mid iioiit* coiiid witiioss without a siii- ct'ii' pity lor thoir sull'oriiiiis. Krhcf", howcvor, was at hiuid hy fho arrival of some hiiiitrrs with tho (.•aiTass«'s ot' roitidoi'r. ( >ii arriving; at their dostiiiatioii. the ('miadians set (iii'ilially about tlic m^ctioti ol' a house lor their winter (jiiarlers. to which was yiveii tiie name of /'»/•/ llnln' jirisi, a name that, in relereiice to tut ore events, miiiJil with nrrn\ and deplorahh- propiiety he changed to that of the '• House of Misery, liameiitation, and Woe." The anxiety felt by {"'ninkliii ol i;ettiii^ on to the north- ward, notwithstanding the opinion ot' all tiiat the late- ness of the season mid the prohahle want ot' provisions would make such an attempt inexpedient, and Akaitcho liiivini; positively refused to let his Indians proceed, Franklin remonstrated with this chief; and. continuing to press the matter, \n>. answered with some warmth : " Well. I liHve M.iid every tliiiii.' I can ur;,'e to dissiiiulo voa fi'oiii ^'oiiiLT on this service, mi which it seems vou wish til siicrilice your own lives, as well as the Indians who iiii;.'lit iillcnil you: however, it', alter all I have saiil, voa are de- tcriniiied to ;,'(>, sonic of my yonnu' men .shall join the partv, lirc'Hise it shall not he said that we peniiilted voa to die iiliinc alter liavinu hroii;.'ht you hither; hut, Iroin the inoinent fhev eiril)ark in the canoes. I and mv relatives shall lami'iit llicin asdcid."— I*. -J-J."). This speocli of tho chief did not fail to make an im- pression on l''ranklin, wlio, after communicafini: to his officers what had passed, it was agreed hy all that n party should he sent forward only for the pur|)os(* of iiscertainiiiii the distance and si/e of the ( "opper .Mine Kiver; and tho two youin:sters, Mack and Hood, were dispatched on that service in a lifjht canoe, havinj; witli them the interpreter. St. (iermain, oi^lit Canadians, and (Mie Indian. Franklin, however, ut all times unwilling to impose a task on otliers of which he did not take ,i siian^ liimself, says that J)r. Ixichardsoii and he deter- mined on inakini; a pec/isfrian excursion to th(» Copper Mine River, leiiviiia; Mr. Went/el to suiierinteud tlio X .' , >r 1' W^^HSPIP mmmmm'mmfmmmm > I I • I (-1 . \ »':,ff ^ ( i>n; AKc'iic NOV \(;i;s. hiilldiii^s. Accnr(liiiL;l> . tlii\\ set uiit on lln- I'lli nt Sc|i- t4'iiilM>r, and hiiviii;j; .snUi-rcil nnicli tVoiii snow iiml cnlil. rciichrd tilt' ( 'n|»|)cr .Mnif llivcrnn l\\^^ \:U\\. nnd wtin iriiiil ln tlir sanif day liacU ami Hood n'iniiifd troni their iiis|)c(tion. " 1 \\.iN uiiK'li |i|i'aM'(| (>ays iiaiiUliii) u illi iIm- alili- inan- IliT la wliirll tlior n|li(i r-. rxcillli '( I tlh' M'lvlcr l||c\ ]\:\i\ liri'ii (li-^iiiih'lit'd iijion. and \\a> L'latilii'd to learn tVorii tlirm tliat tlirir innijiaiiion^ li.id cundnrlt'd llieni-eKes exin ni> K well, ;nid liiiriie llir liiliu'nes nt' tlic jiiiirnev most i'Ih'i'I liilK . 't"lie\ sraireK had e\er nmie than >nllieicMl luel to Imil tii" keide, and were L'earrallv nhl'iLred to lie down in di.ir wet clothes, and, eonseijneiiils, Mitleri'd nnieh from cold." — I'. -,':):. Soon, lioueNcr, alter tlie parties had retin'ned to the lort, it was stated hy the winterini: party at l""ort En- terprise that they had heen apprised that the provisions tln'y hiid, and were likely to ohtain. woulil not sntlice for their joiirney to the sea uiu\ alon<: the coast, and that the aniniiinit loii and clolhini: had not ccnne up tVoni the southward : Mr. Hack, t hi-relore. with that /.t al and actnity hy wha h he had particularly distiuunished hini- seir. \ohniIeered to set out. on the l-lh of < >ctol)er. with Mr. Went/el. two ( 'auiidians, two Indians anil tlu'ir wi\t's. and i-etiirn to I'ort I'rovideiice. and, it" nec- essary, to ( 'hipewyan, to ohtain and hasten the •.•e(|uiriM| su|)plies. This joiu'iM'y was pertoiaiu'd on foot, in the midst of wintei". and was successlul. \\'eiit/el returned from l'ro\idi'nce in the nmnth o|" |)ec(Muher, aceoui|)a- ined hy two Ksipiiuiaux interpreters, whom they found ill l'"oi"l l'ro\ ideiice, where they had arrived from the neiuhhorhood of ( 'hestertield inlet; theii" lonu. unpro- iiounceahle uaiues were now con .-rted into those of ,\ui:ustus and .Imiiiis; the foiaiu'r luiderstood a little ot' the Knulish lanyuaut'. Hack, always aleit when duty re(piire(l his exertion, pidceeded t(» ('hipewyan. Some tiaits of tin- Indian character are uiveii in tin* report of his lou<: aiai perilous journey, and of the ciai- duct (d" the ludauis. whi( h deserve to he here noticed. A siujile instance may he sullicient to ^tiim|» tlu'ir (diar- ijcter. " ( >ne ot' tin- women caught a line pike hy i.'iuking ii hole in ihi- ici'. which she gave lo us: the In- VR.WKMN AM) UUII AKI)S0n':-J Jot.UNKY. 217 111' Sf|i- iikI niM, ml Were 'ist'd nil ii(-i\ ;iii(| ill' IIDIII- llliv li;i<| 'urn tln'iii Mniinls ii'itImIK . huil III" ill tli.ir .uM.- — ■(I to till- ■'ult I'JI- fn\ isidiis t siiriicr liist. iiml lip tViiiii /« .11 iiml kmI liiiii- < U'tohrr. iaiis iiiiil 1, it" iitM- ','f(|uinM| it, ill till* rctiiniril icotnii|iii- cy I'm 1 1 id fniiii till' L'. iiiipio- tluisc (if I litllc nl' luMi duly I. I'll ill tlin the cdii- lioticcd. icir (diiir- piku liy : llif lii- diniis positively rt'liiNcd to |»iiiliiki' ol it, liom ||h> idf.'i (lis \\i' iil'tiTWllld Iriinifd) tllilt \vr slioiild not lilivo siitricioiif for oiirsc|\»'s : '\s»' ."iit iicciistoiiH-d to ,st;ii-\ii- lioii,' said tliry, ' liiit you jut not.' '" TIk* Indians and tlit'ir wives roniplaiiied of illness and want of rest, wliicii induced liack to serve out to tlieiii ii lla;:on ol iiii.xeil sjiirils, " It was a siitistiictioii to iiie." lie says, "to lie- liold these poor creatures eiijoyiiiii themselves, tor they liad hehaved in the most eNemplary and active manner lowii.d the party, and with a li, w liiiii, w llli the a>si>taiici' i>\ some wei'd scniped tVom llie roi ks {fn/ir i/r rorhi), l|i;it .'itliirds a ^dnliiioii> siii)slaiici', made iir< a tnler.-dile supper; il was iinl of tlie nio>t cjjoice kind, yet ^'itod eiMiii;.'!] for llllliurv men. While ue were (iitintr it 1 perceived one iif ihe woiiini liiisilv eiiiplii\ed MiapiiiL' an old skin, willi tlm rniiteiits (if wliiili lirr lin^liaiid preMiiteii IIS. 'I'liey coTisi>t- 1(1 III pniinded ini'.il. tat, and a i:if.'i'ii' pinpoilioii ot Indiiiirs .Hid (leer's JKiir tliiiii either; iind tlinii-li .-iich a mixliiie m.iy nut ;i|ipeMr \eiv iilliiiiiiLr 1o an I'.iiL'li^ii sloinacli, it Wiis lhnu^;|it a i.M-e;il hiMirv atli'r ihrei- dii\s' jirivjitiiiii in these I ln'erless rei/ions ol \nieric;i. Indeed, had it not heeii lor liii' preciiiitiiiii ami L'enerositv ot the Indi.uis, ue must liavo •_'iiiie without siisleiiiiiice until we reniind the torts." — I'. •.'?:!, 'i: I. Ihick. ill this dreadtiil journey, was not only exix)sed to starvation and the extremity of cold, hut also to \\u\ 'laiim-r of perishiiii:; in some of the lakes whiidi they had to cross (III foot. < >n a iii'irow hranch ol' the Slav(» Lake he t"ell tliro)iL:Ji tile ice. Init escapeil without in- jury : on another occasion the ice hent so that it re- (^iiired the utmost sjieed to avoid ("allins: tliroii:;!! whero ii i;a\ • way. as it .seeiirs to have done lit every step ho I I ' Mti mm * I iilB Ai;('iir V(»VA<;Hr«. lonlw III siiurl. it w;is little less flum IllinifllloilS. rui;- siili-riii^ the sc.isdii iiinl tin* severity nl'llie winter, tliii!. lie ever retiiriieil sate, which, hiiwever. he Inn! the ^immI rrlectlv iinth'rstood hy tiiem. We have had maii\ learned dis(|iiisitions on the origin •'! the arch, whicli some say was copied from natnre; the poor isolated Ks(piiman\, evidently an ori*:inal people, nnlike to any other in physical apptMiraiice. had natun* only to con- sult, in which, with their own inueimify. as \ve have leiuvied from I'ariy. they are hy no means delicieiit. In |)ecemher. I'^ranklin has i^iven a stalemeiil ot iho SPveritN of the cold, which is not Mion< intens(! than I'liclv «'\p(>rieneed ; FRWKr.IN AM) KICIIARDHONrf JorUN'I'Y. 219 " TIlc wcithrr (Imiiitr lliis liiniitli Wiis tlic cdldest \\r rx- [iniciicid (liiriiif/ our rcsidcncr in Aiiitii(;i. 'I'lir llifiitmtii- clrr siiiiU nil (iiic (i((;i.si(iii in .')7 Iwlnw /en). hikI iirvcr ri>-.c lii'\(iii(l i> ' iiltovc ;; ; till' /ii»';iii liir tlic iniiiitli was — -^'J 7. Dnriiiu' tlicsr iiilnisr cuM-.. liDwcvrr, tlic ;ilm(i>|(liirr w.t.s j.'<'iii'ially atiniis witlioiif iisiiiL' any cxirani-diiiarv |iir( aiiliuiis, yet witlioiit rccliiii,' aiiv liad ctlrcls. Tlicv liad tlii'ir rriiidrcr shirt- (ni, liatlimi niittcii-; litn-d w ifli Iilatikifn, and lurrcd caps; liiit imrir of them iisi'd anv drf.nsi" \\>i tlic l:iii', iirir ilid tlifv need to do so. Iiidiid \vr liavr alnadv iiH'iitiiiiirtl lliat tin- lirat is alistraclcd iiinst ra|»idl\ I'rnin tlii« ImkIv diiriiii: stroll;^' hrcc/.cs ; and must nf iliosc wlin liavi« [irrislird hfini culd in this (••iiiiitry havr tidh-ii a sa< titic c lo thi'ir [(('in:,' ovi-r'takfii un a laki-, or olhrr ini>-lirltj-n'd [ilacc, liy a storm of wind. 'I'lir intnisi' colds were, however, drtrinnnlal to ns in another way. 'I'lic trees I'ro/.e to their very centers, tiiid liecanie as hard as stones, and more ditlic ulf tn (lit. Some of the a\es \ver<' liroUeii daily, and l>y the end of the month \ye had only one left that was lit i'or felling trees. \\\ intrustiiiL' it on'y to one ol' the [)arty who had hc'-ii hred a car|ti'nter, and who conid use it with dexterity, it was rortiinately prcseryed until tin- arriyal of our men v.ith others from Fort l'ro\ idencc. " A thermometer. hniiLr in our liednKim af the distance of Hixtceii feet from flie fire, hut exposed f{» its direct radiatioti, stood, eyeti in the daytime, occasionally at !.'> helow /ero. anil was ohserved more than once, previous to the kindlini., ol the lire in the moriiiiii:, to he its low as 10 helow zero. On twti of these occasions, tlie chfoiiometi-rs (\os. -.'I ll» and !21.')| ), which during the iii::ht lay under .Mr. Mood's and Or Ificliardson's pillows, stopped while they were dressing' thein- .Kelves."— I'. ^.'.Vl, «,»,-,,-,. Ill Olio of the fmiiilit's lliat tVcipie.ifed tlie house was a uood-lookiii;; <<;ii'l, eoiiceriiin^ wiioiii Ciiptaiii Fraitkliii fiiVi'H tlio t'ollowinu iim^cdote : "1 may remark, that the daiit:hter, whom w<* desicrtiafed (ireeii-stockini:s. from her dress, is considered l»v her trilie to he a i,Meat lieanty. Mr. Hood drew an accurate portrait ol her, althoiiu'h her mother was nyerse from hi'i" Hitlinir lor it. She was afraid, she saiil. that her dauL'hter's likeness would itjdny ('iiplniii l*iiir\ m his winlt'r's iiIhmIc in the Arctic rr^itms, {'< ;■ the tiiniisi-- liiriil iiliil (»C(U|iiilinii nl' liis priiplc, were not Unnwn In <';i|>tiini l-'ninklin ; hnt In* r(|inilly innnil i! nrcrssiirv, • tni'in^ tilt' (liciirv nmntlis they were sinit np in l-'dil I inlri'pris*', to Iniriisli stinn* l\s meiii ihaii niiiilit at lir.st In- supposed. I recalculated tile oiisi r\ atioiis made on oin route; Mr. Mood pioiiacted the (hurts, and made iIhim' draw iiiL's ol' liirds. |ilaiils, and lislies, uIik ii can not appear in tiii-i work, Itiii which lia\e lieeii the adnnralioii of e\f|-\ one who lias seen them. I'.acii ot tiie party sediilousl\ and .-^ipaialely retfuded iheir oh^erv alioiis on liie aniiifa. and Dr. Kichaid- son contrived to olilain liom miil" i- the >iiiiw sperimeiis hC niii-l of the lichens ill 1 he iieiL;hlioihciod. and In ma lie hi nisi 11 acipi.iinled with the niiner.iloLiv of ihe >uiioinidinu' < tunitrv "The Sahhatli was alw avs a day ol rest with n.s; tlie wnnd- men were r.Mpiiied to provide foi' the e\ iLieiicies of thai day on S.iliirdav. and the party \yere dressed in theii' liest atliii'. Diyine service was reLiiihiily perlocnied, and the Canadians attended, and hehaved vyitli i,'reat decoi-inn. aillioiiL'h tin-) W(>reall |{H; ami I Ii'|iIhii-ii !iri|iiii')'i| ruiisidi-ralilr skill ill till' iM.iiiiit'iK tmr i>\ sna|), fi-niii tin- wnuil-aslirs, lilt, ami t-ill Till' liiniialioii nt'sita|> was cniisidcrfd a-^ latlicr' a iiivs- li liniiH u|iciatinii liy our Caiiadiatis, ami in tlirii- hands wa.s iilwavs sii|)|i(isrd to liiil it" a wniiiaii a|i|»riia( lud llir ki'itjc in uhirli the Irv was iMiiliii^'. Sncii aif our siiiijilc dniiirstic (Irl.iiU."— i'.-J.'i:!, 'j;.!». 'I'lio aiironi lioindis made its (ipix'araiicc IVr(|ii(Mitly, Willi iiiiii(< ni- less l)iilliaiir\ . hiit was nut part ciilarly r»'- iiiaikaltlc ; in tlu^ iimiitli ol DccfiiilaT if was visiMr Iwrii- tv t'iiilit ol'tlm limy nii^lits. Mr. I'acU ^ivcs. in llir iiiir- liilivc of his JMnnicy. the rnllowin^ «'\tia()i(hiiaiv ac- (iHint, whii'li he received fVuin one ol" the partners ol' tlio Niiilhwest ( 'oMipaiiy, hut lie does not voiirli lor the Iriitli , and the people had their ration «>f spirits served out to them 'Poward the end of March two Indians arrivecl from The I look, a chief next to Akaitcho in authority anion:; tlie ('upper Indians: his band wiM'e statioiu'd luMweeu the Marten and (Ji'i'iit Ih'ar Lakes: they brouffht olftis from him to supply dried meat on the hanks of the ('tip- per M inei Kiver, in return for ^oods and ammunition. The oiler was declined, but they were desired to tell liim that notes on the Noi-thwest ( 'ompaiiy 's jiost woiiM he yiveM for either provisions or leather when they met. Kveu at this [leriod, l"'rankliii says, "the hunt<-rs sent is no supplies; oirr net prodiuM'd very few lish, and tint pounded meat int»mded to keep for summer use wa.s nearly expended. Our meals at this p(>riod were al- ways scanty, and we were occai>ionally restricted to one in the day." r>ut the Indian families which conjrrei;nted about the hmise, consist injf principally of women and chililreii, snt- fered the most. '■ I bad oflcii re(|Ufstfd tlicm to move to Akjiitclio's buL'''. where tin'V were nmie (eitJiiii of recei\iim .^iipplirs ; but ,i- inoHt of tlnni were >i(k oi' iidirni, tbey llov\in,u the move. iJient*' of a liunliiitr-cain|» They cleared away the snow on of hciiiir. a-j i llic rt';:iii!i six or seven Dies sei'ii." ill^ iicniss ;i 1(1 : a (|ui('k- of sixty 111- LM'll USCl'iheil ivitij'sot'tlie x'ople coiilil es ; hut the r'liolc IMOIlth I it WHS tile r, llo\vev«!|-, (I tll(* Ilieitii ►ii tije l.'jih vidcnco. and out to tliein irriveil iVom ority auHMi^ ih\ ht'twreu •ouj;lit olVeis lot" tiu» ( 'itp- UMUtunition. \-r(\ lo tell )Ost would thry 11 let. Miters sent di, and tlh' •r use W!i>. were al- •teil to one al)OUt tlie lildreu, sut- Iki's lodL''". lies ; hilt 11- lilve to i|Mil •s Inini |)i'. U tlie nievc . le snow Oil rilANKI.IV AM) 1:1(IIAIIU.SOn\s J(jURNKV. *2o'3 liie site oftlie iintinini eiu-iMipiiients to look lor l)oiies, deer's lei't, hits (if hide, iind other nllld. \\ lien we lieheld tlieni .'liuwiug tlie pieces of huie, imd ixiiindini; the hnnes fiir tlnj purpose of extnictiiiir .-nnie noiirislinient from tlieiii liv huil- ini:. we legretted our iii;ihility to I'elieve them. Iiiif htllo tliiMiL'ht tli;it we slioiild ninselves he rit'terwnrd (h'iven to the necessity of ejiu'erly coljeef iiii,' tliese same holies a second timo tinrii the diinirhilh'"— r. v!!»!{. 'Vho, weather in May l)erain»> warm, and the approach of spritjjn was aj^reeahly rontirnipd hy tlie liraihial ap- pearanre of various kinds of hirds and cd" reindeer. Tho .iveidiie temperature for tlio month was ahout .'{"J", the i^ieatest h»'at hH''. and tlie lowest \f* : at th«^ end of tho month tlie sun (hd not set. Preparations were now iiiiide for the loim journey down the Copper Miiu* Riv- er to tilt; coast of the i*(dar Sea, and alon\' (hildren. .Xmony them were lifteen Canaihaii v. yagers. .\ jiromise was iiiiKh? hy .\kaitcho, in presence of Mr. Wentzel and the In- dians, that a deposit of jirovisious should be made nt lliis place, Fort Knterprise, previous to next Seplemher, ;is a resource should the i)arty return hy this way; and W'ent/el undertook to see this done. On tin; l-lth of .lune. all hein^ completed, Captain I'riinklin set olf with three canoes, drajiued hy tour men each, and two doiis. The stores, the instTuments, and the small stock of dried meat, amountinu only to ei^dity pounds, were distributed erpialiy anionij Mephurn, threo Ciinadians, and the two Ks(piimaux, .lunius and .\ui.mis- liis. .\ll the party st't out on foot. On crossing; a small hike, Frnnklin i'ell in throuijli tlu^ ice, and soon alter IJack did the sann-, and .Junius also, with a lieavy bur- den on his buck, hut none (d' them were hurt. It Wii.s not till tlie i>lst that Franklin's party Joined Dr. Rich- ardson at Point Tjiike. To ease the iihmi who had car- ried the canoes, the third canoe was hdt here, as by do- iii;: this three men were gained to ussi.st those who had become liinio. It were tedious, and not very interesting, to rejieat tlie details of tlu^ journey over lakes, down rapids and ciitaracts, over p(»rta^es, and across a hilly country. i ) ' ,*r iif)! ARcrrc voYA(;i: il I I droiulfiilly fatiguinsi to tlm iiicti, or to rolato tlio nltnrnjitt* sncccssos uiiil (lisa|)|)oiiitiM(Mits of llio hunters. It !•, oiioiii,'!) to say lliat on tin* .'.Otli ot' .luiic tliry (Miiharknl on the (.'oppcr Mnio Klvcr, wliicli, at a point callril Ivock-nost, is statod to bo about two hundred yards widci, ten t'oft (b'('|), and to ll(»w wvy rapidly over a i-ocky hoi- toni ; its banks pict nrosipn', tho hills .sht'lvini;; to the wa- ter side, well covrred with wood, and tho suri'aco of the rocks richly clothed with lichens. Musk-oxen weie here very plentiful near the river, and in all this part of the country; and, like the buffalo, hi'nl together iti bands, so that out* day the hunters killed ei^ht cows. It is said that when tw(t or three men ^(^t so near a herd ns to fn"e at them iVoni different points, instead of sepu- ratiny; or riunfin^ away, these animals iinddle closer to- gether, and several ar(^ yeiuM'ally killed ; but if tlu^ wound 1)0 not nntrtal, they bc^come enraiied, and dart in the most lurious nnuuM'r at tht^ linnters, who nuist be vi-ry dexterous to evade them. ( >n the 7th ol' .Inly they ai'rived at Tlir HooJc'.s en- campment, the Indian chief before mentione(l, who was ]iarticulai'ly civil, and said 'I'l u^ amount ol niea t I 1 lave is very small, but I will cheerfully uive yon wliat I have; we are too much indebted to tlu! whit(! people to allow them to want t'ood on our lands while we lia\e any to v.'\\r ihem;" and lie promised to remain on the side of the Hear Ijake, which is near to tho (.'opper Mine Jliver, til' the month of Novinnbei'. and to fui'iiish the |»ai'ty with sup|/!ies on their return, lie too, as well as all the In- dians, earnestly eiiti'eated the trav»'lers to be constantly on their jiuurd against the frcfachery <>t tlu^ Esfpiimaux. They w»M"e now approachiii", and dip of the needle, i^7 - ."U ' Ir^ ". l''rom henc<^ they visit- ed tile ( '(>j)p(M" !\rouiitains in search of specimens of tlm ere, aiireeablv. as I'ranklin savs. wi ith I us instructions tl •I' ^tiiii; of l> It' lie p'TSons, voya^eis and IndiaiiH, incliidiiii; the ollicers, " We triveji'd tor iiinc boms over a considi'rable space of firotiiid, but touiid only a few small pieces of native copper. J'lie inounfains varied in li<'i:,'lit from 1 "J 00 to l.jOOfeet; their rt rUANKLlN A.VU KICII \K1).S(J\ ri JuLK.NKV. \i,)i> o nltorniitH TS. It is (Miil)iirk('(l oint citlltMl ards wide, rocky l)ni- to tlic Wii- [\icv of tl'r »X(MI Wl'lf liis part nl" i::«'tlirr ill (•(»\VS. It I'ai" a liriil (I of S('|)ll- ' closer to- llic woiiikI lart iti tint 1st l)t' very Jl'iolc's v\\- l, who was icat I liavt! luf I have ; lo to allow my to i:iu: >i(le of tht! iiK* liivcr, party with all tii<^ lii- coiistaiilly ^quiiiiaiix. loiiiitaiiis, Ollir. 1 1 (i i:;", and thi'V visit - t'tis of thti triictioiis ; voya^tTs f spa( <* ot |\(' <'((pprr. IfcL't; llifir nniformity is iiitcrruptfd hy iiaiTow valleys fravcrscrl Ity hiiKiil sirciiiiis. 'I'lic hr.si spcciiiinis of niclal we luociircd wnc aiiioiii: the stones la llicsc valleys, and it was in sncli •.ilintiotis that oiir L'uides desii'rd us to search most carefnliv. It would apjiear, tli;il when the Indians see imy sparry >nli- stance [Ji-ojertini: ahove the snrliice, thev di;,' then', l»nt lla-y have no other rule to direct them, and have never Umiid thi« metal in its nrii:inal repository. (Jar ;,'iiides reported that thev had tomid copper in liirtre pieces in everv pai't of this riinire fia* two day>' walk to the northwest, and that the jls- (|aimimx come hither to search for it. 'I'he animal visits whi( li the Cojiper Indians were acca.-.tonied to make to theses imiimtains, when most of their weujioiis and utensils wi^'e made of copper, have lieen disconliimeil since they liave heeii eiiahled to olitain a >apply ot ice-chisels and otlu'r in- strmni'iits of iron. Iiy the e.^talilishmeiit of trading-posts near their lmntintr-i:romids.'"' — 1*. WW). 'IMu'v now descended to that part of the fiv(>f named ]iy Hearne tlie IJIoody Kail. This rapid is desciila'd as a sort of slndvinii; cascad»?, ahont three hundred yards in letiijth. having a dc'scent of from ten to fifteen feet, and lioiinded on eatdi side hy hii,di walls of red sandstone, upon Avliich r<'sts a series (d" lofty un-en liills. Hero thev caiiiiht forty excellcMit salmon and white lisli. in a simple net, helow the rapid. No trees hail been seen in this day's journey : l)nt the ui'onnd is w(dl clothed with irass, and nourishes most of the shrubs and beiry-bear- im: plants that wcm'c^ met with north their (diief's promise, and shown themstdves on tho hills. It was at this place where I learn*' de- scribes the dreadl'iil massacre of the Ks(piimau\ by tho ^ Anions: l)r. Kicliarilsoii'-) 'icoLniostii'iil Oliscrvutioiir', a circnnistun tii 1 accuunt ol' tlic ('(>i>[M'r Mouataiii.! will ho t'ouinl. — Ai'innilir, AVy. 1. >,A :;>50 ARCTIC VUYAGKH. II i }u \ \ I ', fliipowyuii Tiiiliiins, unil tln'r«>fi»r(' nimn'il it tlic " niooilv l''all." < )ii l-'raiiUlin and tlu* party apprttachiiiy it iiiil ('li(-aiiipiii'_'. nine l%s(piitnaii\ app(*ai'r(l mi tli«> oppusjii* liniik oi" the river, carryiiiy tlirir caiKtcs on tlu'ir liacU ; liuf tlicy llt'd oil sci'iiii,' the teiifs. Nut only Wert tlit-s,. people ularnied, hut tlie hidiaiis also \v»'re .so teirilinl that they insisted on returning; tlie next day; nor could I'raiiklin prevail on two hiinteis to remain >vith liiui. The rediice(| party, however, proceeded, and oiitlie l->tli of. Inly reacdied the sea-coast at the nuMith ot the ( "op- per -Mine Kiv(M",it hein<^ only nintMuiles iVoiii tlii' Hloody l''all. The Canadian voyagers were aninsed with their first view (»f the sea. aii(l the seals swiniiniiiu ahoiit. Imt soon i^ave way to desjxdideiicy ; lln'y were terrilied at the idea - tance from l*'ort Knteiprise to the mouth of the river is said to he aliout three hundred and thirty-tour mile>. The canoes and hagyafio were dragued over snow and lee for one hundred and seventeen mih's of this distance. They encamped af ten on the western hank, at its juiic- lioii with the sea. Tl le river is lu'ro a ihout a mile wide hut very shallow. JJiiih and numerous islands to s<>a- Nvard fill the liori/.ou in several points of the compass ; the water was decidedly salt, and Franklin thinks thai. Jlearne could have tasted it only at the mouth of the river, as he pronounciMl it merely brackisii. Tlie emhurcatiou in two hircli-hark canoes for a navi- gation along the southern coast of the Polar Sea to \\h-. i'astward, and tlio conunencoment of the voyage, took ])lace oi' the -Jlst of July, their dried nu'at and other pj-o- visions amounting only to liftt^Mi days' consumption. They paddltMl all day along tln^ coast, within a crowded range of islaiuis, with very little ice; the coast covered with vegi'tation ; tlie islands rocky and barren; abund- ance of drilt-wood ; and as none comes down tln^ Cop- per Mine River, nor down any t)ther, except .Miu^keu- //le's Kiver, it was inferred that an easterly current pre- vailed. The least depth of >v'ater, after two days' sail- ,» I rUA\KI-I\ AND RlCir \RDPON H JOJ.RVF.Y. 257 iim, wns six rnflmms. ami any sliip iiii^lit pass safely !)••- twfcii fill' isliiiids and tlu' inalii. Aft • T a run (il tlui'fv- s.'M'ii MliN'H, tliry fMicampnl ; the const Well covj'n'il wifli \t ^ftatiun (if inndt'i'iifr liciylif. and easy of a|)pr> '/ >r^ 0>i Photographic Sciences Corporation ^v ^^ S^ ,\ :\ \ "% V 6^ «> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (7;6) 872-4503 ,% 6^ •', I ( " f I, 258 ARCTIC VOYAGES. eliore of a vory wido rmd doep gulf, with nnmerous inlets Issuing ill various (lir»'ctioiis, witli crooks and riv«!rs brandling out from and otliors running info tlioiu. In tlio present situation of the pnrly, living from hand to inoutli, and without any rertainty of a supply, noil ini^ more than an outline could bo taken of tiiese inlets, fiom twenty to sixty miles deep; but pains appear to li!i\f been btjstowed by Frankfiii, ]Jack, and Hood to make them as correct as time would allow. One of these nu- merous branches was named Melville, and is stated to Im thirty mihis from east to west, and twenty from nortli tn Boutli; and Jhilhurst's Inlet is not less tlian seventy miles long. Those, however, as occasional receptacles of ice, are not to bo considered as refuge harbors tnr ships. Having surrounded this gulf, called Coroiiation (tuU' on the chart, Franklin, Richardson, and -Jack walked along the southern coast of the Polar Sea ten miles, and finding its trending to ')e still to the east, they named the spot Point Turn-again, being well satisfied that it was more than pj'obable this point would prove the ter- mination of the voyage. " It was evident," says Frank- lin, " that the tinu; spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds, and jiathurst's inlet (all branching out. of and a portion of the great gulf), had j)rocluded tll(^ ho|)o of reaching Repulse ihiy, which at the outset of tlui voyage w(> had fondly cherished ; and it was equally ob- vious that, as our distance from any of the trading estab- lishments would increase as we proceeded, the hazard- ous traverse across the barren grounds which we should have to make, if comp(dled to abandon the canoes upon any i)ait of tlu^ coast, would become greater." But the greatest hazard of all, and it was wofully experienced, ■was the miserable pittance of provisions remaining. Many circumstances concurred to convince the party that farther exploration would be vain, one of the canoes being already rendered useless, and the second nearly as bad ; tho quantity of j)ommican was reduced to three days' consumption, and apprehensions for their safety had seriously posstissed the minds of the vtjyagers and interpreters. A violent storm and its effect on tho sou did not increase their desire of remaining longer. i '^ nerous inlets i and rivers > tlieiti. Ill roiii hi'iiiil t(( )|)ly, notl iiii^ '. inlots, tVdin n^av to have Dod to make ot" tlnvso II u- 5 staled to he roiu no)lli til lian seventy 1 receptacles ) harbors tnr )iiation (Juir ■Jack walked I'll miles, ami tliey named istied tliat it rove the ter- says Frank- e Arctic and •rancliinif out. rechided the outset of the IS equally oh- radinii; estub- , the hazard- ch we should canoes ujx)!! r." But the experienced, laining. ico the party of the caii.>es Jiid nearly as ced to thre(3 their safety •((yagers and •t on the seu )iiger. FRANKLIN AND RICHARDSOn's JOURNEY. 25{> "Tliough it will appear from the chart," says Frank- lin, "that the position of I'oint Turn-again is only six degr<'es an(] a half to tin; east of tht^ mouth of the'Cop- per Muui River, we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indent- ed coast, five hundred and tifty-live geographical miles, Avhich is littl(! less than tin; direct distance between the ('(>|)per Miia^ '{iver and Repulse P>ay, supposing the lat- ter to be in the longitude assigned to it by Middleton.'' ('a|)tain Franklin mentions tiiat Arctic Sound ajjpear- ed the most convenient, and, perhaps, the best place for sliips to anch(»r that he had seen along the coast, at this season especially, Nvh(>n they miuht increasif their slock itf |)iovision if supplied with good marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity; iimsk-oxen also may be found up Hood's River, and the fine, sandy bott(nn of tin; bavs promises favorably for fishing with the sein. The hills on the western side are even in their outline, and slope gradually to the water's edge. Franklin farther says that the [)ortion of the sea over wiiich he had passed is navigable for vessels of any size. The ice he met, particularly after leaving Detention Harbor, would not have arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands allords shelter from all heavy seas, an 1 there are good harbors at convenient distances. It k U» he hoped, howv(>re ulled ahleil the party to ste<'r for i lood's River, from the mouth of which they nscended as hiiih as the first raj)id, and encamped, 'i'liis was on tln^ •Jdth of August ; "and liere," siiys FrjinKlin, " termiiiiited our voya!i(> '>') the Arc tic Sea, duriiiij; which we had iione over six hundred and (ifty <:eo miles in a stiaiuht line iVom where iheywere. 1 hiving' proceeded twelve miles, a snow-.storm (»l)lijie(i them to encamp, and ,m the 'M tlu! last piece ol- jiemmican and a little arrow- root were; distril)uted tor sii])per. The violen(;e ot" the storm continued till the 7th: and tor several days, hav- ing; nothinii to eat, and no m 'ans ot" makinu a lire, they i-emained whole di' .s in bed. The wind contimu'd so strong and the w» ''un' so severe, that there was no cliance. ot" gettinji on. A temperatnre ot" 'JO , without tire, the party weak from fastin::. their garments stilf- eiied i)y frost, and the ground covered with ice and snow, reiidei-ed their condition veiy unlit for tiaveling in sncii H conntry. On trying to proceed, Franklin was sei/ed with a fainting-tit. in cons(?qiience of exhanstion and sud- den exposure to the wind, but on eating a morsel <»f port- iible sf)up h(! recovered. "1 was unwilling." says this brave fellow, "at tirsr to take this mors(d of soup, wlfudi was diminishing the small and only remaining meal for the pai'ty, but several of the men urged me to it with much kindness." The canoe-carrim-s wvvo fie(piently blown down, and one; of these machines was broken to |}ieces, whi(di, hoWev(>r, was turned to the best account, liv making a liri^ of it to cook tlu^ I'enmant of portal)Io soup and arrow-root : a scanty meal affer three days' lasting, but it serveil to allay the pauL-^s of hunger. The next two days the surface of the barren ;j[rounds was covered with large stones, bearing a lichen which th(! Canadians call tripe dr rwhr, or rock-tripe, a sub- stance! to wliich the i)res(Mit travelers may be said to owo their safety and existence; without it they must have died of starvation. JJy botanists this plant is called G*//- rnjtltoi-d, t"rom its circular form, and tlu^ surface of tho leaf being marked with curved lines, and of which Dr. Kichardson lias described and engraved four species, with this observation : " We used all four as articles of food; but, not having the means of extracting the bitter princi[)le from them, they proved nauseous to all, and iidxious to several of the party, producing severe bowel complaints." Tins, with half a partridge to each, fur- nished their supper. On tho dth tlie passage of u river ^S'as efl'ected by >^ r^ 202 ARCTIC VOYAGES. 1! '!. '^ 1 ^ll nioniis of n ranijo of liirj^o rocks at tho foot of a rapiil. '^riio people who carried lioavy bni-dons mostly .slipped into llic stream, and weie dreiiclied from head to iodt ; and all beini; w«;t to tiie middle, and the thermometer at 17°, their clotlies became stiff with the frost, disaliling them from walkinj; without mucli pain. On the lotli they came upon a herd of imisk-oxeii, of which tlif^ hunters killed one of the lar<;est, a cow, wdiicli infused spirit into the starving j)arty. " '^Phis," savs Franklin, "was the sixth day since we had enjfiyed a ^ood meal ; tlie tripe de roclic, even where we cot enouirh, only serving to allay the jjungs of hunger for a short time." On tlie 12th the severity of the weatlier abated, so as to allow them to go forward, but the whole party coiu- l)lained of faintness, and of more weakness than tiiey liad ever before done. Their supper consisted of a sin- gle; i)artridge, accompanied with some rock-ti'ipe, whicii urfoi'd(!d little relief, and the lattei- had becoiuii cpiito nauseous to all, and in several pro(hiced bowel complaints, to Mr. Hood in particular. It was now obvious that the whole party were getting weakf r every day. It was (hscovered also that some of them had tlirown away the iisliing-nets and burned the floats, depriving them, by this thoughtless act, of the means of ebtaining a supply of fish, which miglit be expected whih; coasting tlie mar- gins of the several lakes they would have to ])ass. On the morning of the 14th, while the officers wero assembled round a small fire, Perrault, one of the voya- gers, presented each of them with a small piece of meat, which hc! had saved from his allowance. " It was re- ceived,*' says Franklin, "with gi'eat thankfulness, and such an act of s(df-denial and kindness, being totally un- expected in a Canadian voyager, filled our eyes with tears." On the same day, Franklin, St. Germain, and Ji(danger embarked in the remaining canoe to cross a river, and when in the midst of it, the current and a strong breeze drove the canoe to the veiy brink of a tr«!- mendous rapid, of which a most frightful account is given : Belanger, unluckily, applied his paddle to avert the danger of being forced down the rapid ; he lost his balance, the cunoe o/erset hi the midst of the rapid, but 'i .i ? FRANKLIN AND RICIIARDSON's JOURNEY. 2G3 of a rapid. )stly slipped (Mid to i'ont ; •inonif'ter at ist, disabling isk-oxcn, of cow, which This," sfiys 1 onjoycd a cot oiiouirh, for a sliort ihatpd, so as party coiii- > than they led of a siii- TJpe, wiiich icoine qtiito complaints, ous that tho iiy. It Wiis rn away tho g them, by ing a supply nil the mar- pass. fficers woro of the voya- >ce of meat, ' It was r(^- fuhiess, ill id X, totally iin- • eyes with ermain, and B to cross a rrent and a ink of a ti(!- ! account is die to avert ; he lost his le rapid, hut the party kept liolil of it till it came in contact with a rock, on which die wator was lajt liigher than their waists. IJelauKer rcMuaiiied on the rock ; tho other two, on the thii'd attempt, jiot to the short;. After many fruitless attempts, a sundl line was thrown to Uel- aiiuer, and he was drajiyed throuifh tlie rapid in a per- fectly sred. J5y tliis accident Franklin lost his portfolio, containing his journal and observations from Fort Enterj)rise ; but the loss, h(j says, was well supplied by his compan-ons, Richardson, JJack, and Hood. On the Kith and 17th, by passing over a nigged country, their toil and sulf(U'ing were greatly increased; on the latter day they had no breakfast, and but a scanty supper, yet Franklin says they alliiyed the pangs of hung(;r by pieces of singed hid«5 and a little tripe de rnrhe. " These would have satisfunl us in ordinaiy times, but we were now almost exhausted by slench'r fnre and travel, and our aj)petites had become ravenous. We looked, however, with humble confidence to tho Great Author and Giver of all good, for a continuance of the support which had hitherto been always supplied to us at our greatest need." On the 18th, Franklin says, "the want of tripe de rnrhe caused us to go supperless to l)ed." The next day they came to a sj)ot where there was some of that weed, which they collected, and breakfasted on. Mr. Hood was now so feeble that Dr. Richardson walked with him at a gentle pace in the rear of thci party. " In the evening," says Franklin, "we had a small cjuantity of the tripe, and the rest of our supper was nuide u} of scrjips of roasted leather ;" and he adds, " previous to setting out, the whole i)arty ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs for the fatigue of the day's journey." The 10th supplied them only with Icehmd moss, boiled for their supper, which, not being soaked, proved too bittiu- to be taken in more tlum a few spoonfuls ; no I'ock-tripe was to be found. On this day one of tho renewed canoes was broken by the fall of the person I ) fTl 201 ARCTIC \OVAGLS. I! ; « who liJul it ill clifii'iic. Vol' stfvcral diivs jiftcr rliis ih |) !•()<; M'CSS WHS S low, I'lr over ii hillv I'oiiiilrv, iiiid \\^^' imii liccimui iiiipiiticiil, luid mu iiidillcmit, lliut the two who Imd tli<» cliiiriic of tli»^ oii'y rcMiminin^f ciiiioi^ Iclt it he- hind, iiryiii^ itii rxciisc that it liad n lall, was rom|)lrtclv hi'oUcii, and usch'ss. They rid'uscd to rrtuni and luinjj it up, i)roi\('ii as it was ; tlicy rcl'iiscd to make any ex- ertion, and acted as it' they liad givou up ull liope ol preservation. On the 'Jlst th(5 men took it into their lieads tliat llio party liad lost their way, and a ^dooin was spicad over every countenance Ivicliardson had snllei'ed s(» unich IVoni cold, t'atiilue, and huniref as to he t»l)!ii:e(t lo deposit his specimens ot" plants and minerals, collected on \\u) seii-coast, l)»'ing unahlo to carry thorn any taither. Thinys continu(!d in this deplorahU^ state till the "Jltli, when the kiHin River and now, for \\\c> first time, tin' people were; convinced of their folly in hreakinjf th'i two canoes. liack, the most active and viirorous of the party, was sent forward with some of \\u) hunters to apprise the l)eoplei at Fort Knterprisi^ of tiie a])proach of tlie rest. Cri'dit and Jiuiius followiMJ them also to hunt, ('redlt retnriuMl, hut Junius was missiiiii;, and was never after lieai'd of. Sev»>ral days wer«^ hei't^ losi in making a ratt of willows, which was linished by the "JDth, hut all at- tempts to convey thc^ raft across tiu? stream failed, and the sduMue was considered hopelfvss : tlie raft, moi'eo- ver, was of ifr<'eli wood, and tlu^ want of poles or i)ad- dli's rendered th«' moving of it on the water impractica- ble. Vet it was of the utmost importance to cross tiio river, as any attcMupt to go round the hikes would be sure destriu:tion to the whole party, in their famished and worn down state : two of them, having been utterly iniable to proceed, were left behind. " In this liopeluris couditiou with certain starvation staring ,1 ! FR.WKI-IV A\D RICIIARDSOn'.S JOUUNEV. 205 llinn ill till' tiicc, Dr. Kic liindxni, ricliuilcil liv iIh' iiiildc dc- hiiv <>r niakinj.' ii last t'tluit tor llic siti-ty of the partv, and of rt'lit'viii^' liis .siitloriiiir ite shore, when Inn Iei.'s also hecaiiie powerless, and, to our inlinite alarm, we he- held him sink. We instantly hauled upon the line, and he c line ai:ain on tlu' surface, and was L'faduallv drawn ashoro in an almost lifeless state. IJeim,' rolled up"in hlankets. hct was placj'd hefore a good fh-e of willow,', and, fortunatelv, was just ahle to speak siilliciently to ^rive .some .sjitrht direc- tion.s respecting' the maimer of treatiiiL: him. lie recovered streii^Mh irradiially. iind, throiiudi tlie hlessin^' of (hid, was ena- hled in the course of a lew hours to conviu-se, and hy tlu; eveiiini,' was siilhcii-ntly recuvc-red to i-emov(! into the tent. We then re^M-etted to learn that the skin of his whole left sale was deprived of feelini:, in coiiscMpieiice of expo>ure to loo trreat heat, lie did not perfectly i-ecover tin; sensation of that si(h> until the following' summer. 1 can not describe what every om^ ielt at heholdiiiLT the skeleton which the doc- tor's dehilitated frame exhihited. When he stripped, tlai Canadians simiiltanoously exclaimed, 'Ah ! qiir voim sonnrirs vuiifrrrs!' I shall i)est explain his state and that of the party hy the lollowini: extract hoiu his journal ; * it mav he wor- thy of remark, that I ihould have had little liesitation in any iormer period of my life at pluni:in,',' into water even helow ;i!; ' Fahrenheit, but at this time 1 was reduced almost to skin and Imne. and, like the rest of the party, siiU'ered from (IcLTfees of cvild that would have I)eeii <1isrepn-iler.' " Franklin adds, '- In followin-r the detail of »)ur friend's narrow escape, I have omitted to men- tion, that wluMi lie was alioiit to step into ihc' water he ])ut lii.s foot on a day^'er, which cut him to the bone; but this mislortime could not stop him from attempting the execution of his generous undertaking." — J'. I-Jl. 4-2'). Eight large fugots of dry willows were now prepared, ih-^ I. ^ '•= I, '1 206 ARCTIC VOYAGKH. h 'i if. ' I find found to l»f> biioyinit. niid ii (diccrful supper of nwK. fripo ;;tiVH (;oiili(l('ii(;o to the (Icspondino; pcopio l\w n time; hut riothiiiji; ciimt; in from the Imntrrs, cxcfpL tliut ono of them hroiij^lit in the iintlei's and hiick-lidiio of a deer, whicdi the wolv.w and birds of prey harl picked clt'un, a small (piuntity of the s|)inal marrow only leniain- iny. This, though putrid, was esteemed n valnaldo j)ri/e, and was dislrihiited in etpud portions, hut fonml to he so acrid as to excoriate the lips ; th(* hom-s. inmle friiil)l(^ by hiu'iiini;, were also eaten. An^ustus and I'acU returned, havini; traced the shore of the laUi^ (if- teen miles, and. despaii-in-: of continuiiii; the tour of it, thou;;hl it best to attempt to cross tliu river at this place. They were now r(Mluced to the last (h'uv of wading throujzh tln! deej) snow, and L ri'tuiiird (juitc exhausted juid much hhaken by the numerous falls 1 had ^ot. My associati's were all in the same debilitiited state ; and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect sli;'.dow, h'om thi^ severe bowel complaints which tilt; /ri/ic (If rocke never faili'd to give him. Back was so feeble as to retjuire the su[)port of ji stick in walking; and Dr. Richardson had hnneness su[)eradded to weakness. Tho voyagers were somewhat stronger than oursi-lves, but more indisposed to exertion, on account of their desjK)ndency. Tho sensatitai of hummer was no longer felt by any of us, yet wo W(;re scarcely able to converse nptai any other subject than the pleasiu'cs of eating. We were much indebted to Hep- burn at this crisis. Tin- oflicers were unable, from weakness, to giitiier //-//^c di' rorlir. themselves, and Sam;nidre, who liad acted MS our cook on the journey from the coast, shnring in the despair of the rest of the Canadians, refused to make tho slightest exertion. Hepburn, on the contrary, anunuted by a I, I . T (if rof k . )l)ln fur ii •H, •'XCfpt l)ii('k-li()im iiifl picked y rciiiiiin- i valiiiihio l)iit I'oiiikI U'S. IllMlltS ISfllS (111(1 o liiko lif- N)ur of It, T ut this of stiirvii- II scttlcil '.H;t rock- itiy t'xcr- e willow- froin tlio : fiiiisluMl. 3 at hand, ion : rerniiiia to lUJU'tcrs of >t to n'iif.h ig tliroii^^h iuid much iatrs were IS reduced iiits which L'k wiLs so khm; and u's.s. Tho but inoro luy. Tho IS, yet wo bject tliiin d to Ilep- weakiiess, , wlio liad sharing m make th-o lated by a FK\\K!,I\ AM) ItUMIAUnSON'ri JOmNKV. 207 finil reliance f)n the beneficence of the Sii, .eine lleiiiL'. tern pcred with resiiriiiition to His wi'l, was iiKh'tiitiirable in hirj fxertiuiis to serve us. and (hiHv collected ail the //•//;(• dc rocke that was used in the ollicers' mess." — 1'. I'J?, Ivlli. < )ii tho 1th of Octohof thoy nil safely laiidod on tlio southern bank of the river, oiio at a time, tlie c tioe lieiiiii; drawn back aj^aiii ni succession till all were yot over, without any serions iiccideiit. ^'et several (»f tho men wert» wholly unahh^ to proceed a day's journey, and three or four Inid fallen or lay dowti, and were left liehiiid. Dr. liicbardson and Mr. Hood, with tlieii* usual fetdinss (jf humanity, proposed to remain to lako care of, and to briuLt "P' ^''*' 'lisahleil to a spot where* tlwrci was a thicket of willows and a supply of rock- tripe, .lolm lle|)bin'n, tho kindest of mortals, volun- teered to remain with them ; but, though his assistanc«j was too nnich net>ded elsewhercN Franklin, with lii.s characteristic feeliiii:, snilered him to remaii;, as beinj; tho best assistant Dr. Ivichardson could have in takinjj; care of those who were disabbMl. Franklin was most nnwilliiiif to jxirt with any of his comrades, but saw tlin necessity of doins; so. "And after,"' he says, "we had united in thatdvsiiivinij; and prayers to Almiij;hty (tod, I se|>arated from my companions, deeply afHicte), only iini\cil; tlu* otlirr tlum Avnt' III) iiinr«> liraid of; nml loitiiiiiilr iiidrrd would it liiivr hrcii it' till' survivor liiid pi-rislu'd with tin- rrst. I'^niiiUliii's piirty Wiis now irdurrd to livr ; the Inst tlliit piirtrd trolii liiiii wiis our of tlii> most fiiitlifiil, iiiid tor whom ho luid ji silicon' ro^iJird; his uiiiiio Wiis Anto- nio l<'oiit)iiio, Mil Itidiiiii, who hiid scrvrd miiiiy ynirs in Oo iMiMiron's irjiimciit. TIm^ |)oor follow, on tiil-iiii; liMivo, liiid I'litroiitod {''niiikliii, should hr survive, to tiiko him to l'liii:liuid, to jiut him in the w iiimselt" in a few days, with IJeiioit and Aui;ustus, ' to Fort Providence. In the mean time, it was ahsohUely lu'cessary to look out for soinethin^f to subsist upon, and "we were ^M'atitied," ]w says, ''to lind several deer skins which had het'u thi'own uway diiriiiij; our former residenct^ ; the hones weri' j^atli- ei"ed from the heap ot" ashes; these, with the skins, and tlie addition oi' tri/tc dc rorin,, v,o, considered would suj)- port us tolerahly well for a time." In a lew days Frank- lin set out on his journey, hut found himself so weak as to have ^ono only lour miles in six hours ; the next niorn- iiiii he fell hetwoen two rocks, and broke* his snow-shoes; liiuiin}:; himself so exhausted, he let his two companions * Aui,'iistii.s WM^ not on*' of tlif tiv(> wliu jjrocccdi'd to this |)liict'. On their il('pi\rt\iri' i'Vimidin siiyr^, " A\ii.ni.-tus did not nnikc his iippciiriincf, liiit Wf tt'lt no idiirin at liis iitisciici'.'' No doiilit he had I'ollowid iilono to thu I'urt, and I'riiukliu umittcd to notice his tui'ival. .* 1 s- \\ FRANKMX AM) UKIIARDSOn's JOURN'KY. 2('»0 |iinr(M'(l ill scarcli of the Iiidiniis, iiiid rcfiirncil fo liis iiiisfnililt' liitiiic. M isfiiililt' iii(lct'(l It uiis : two ul' ilm linen left liclniid were uniiblt' tn(|uil their beds. uikI tln-y sciirctdy censed tVoin slieddiiit; teiiis flie wlinle day. *' I WiH t(Mi weak l(» |i(iiiiid the hones, and I'ehier (the third) ii^reed to do thiit in addition to his more t'atii^iiini,^ ta>k nt' netting \Vood. We perceived (tiir streiii:th to decliiK* every day, and every e\e;'tion Iteizan to he irksiaiie ; when once seated, the <:reatest ellort was necessary in order to rise, find we had l"re(|ueiitly to lill eacli other tVom our SlMllS." Kiizhteeii days were passerl in this iniseratile condition, wliich had iiicrease(| troiii day to day, with the prospect, lioW(n'er, of a speedy termination, tor the weather liad set ill so severely that the Iri/n t/i mrln' was ('iitirely iVo/eii, the thermometer Ijeiiiy t'rom l'> ' to 'JO' helow zero. .Inst then, l-'ianklin says, " While we were seated i-(iniid the fire this evenini:, dis- (■nin'siaLT iiiioat the aiiticiiiated I'eliet', the ciMiversatioii was mddeiilv iiiteri'iipted hy I'eltier's exclaiiiii «l'. with Joy, ' All! Ir iiKiade !' iiiiaL;iniii<^ tiiat he heard the hidians in the other idnia ; iiiunriliiitely afterward Dr. l{irlianlsori and Ih'phin'n entei-rd, each carrvinL' his handle. When 1 saw them alone, ia\ own mind was instantly tilled with a|)prehensions respect- ini.' my friend llnod and our other companions, which were inmiediutcly <'onlirmed hy the doct(M'"s meliniclioly •■onnnn- nicatiori that y\v. Hood and .Michel were dead. I'errault and Fontano Iral neither I'eached the tent nor heen heard of hv them. This intelli^'ence produced a melancholy de- spondency in lla- minds of my party, and on that accoimt the particulars wen." deferrt^d until another opjtortimitv.'' — V. 1 KJ. 'V\u^ einaciatpd conntenHiires of tho doctor and Ilep- hurn uave evich'iice of tlieir dehilitated state. " 'V\ut doctor partiriilai'ly remarked the .sejjiilclirtd tones of our voices, wliicli he recpiested of us to make more cheer- ful, if possihie, unconscious that liis own ptirtook of tim saiiK^ key." A jxirtridiit! whicdi llephiirn had shot was held to tli(^ tire, iind then divided into six portions. " I imd mv three companions," sa\ s Franklin, '• raveiionsly devoured our shares, as it was the tirst inors(d of ih'sh iiny of us liad tasted for fhirfi/'iinr (/(/jis, uiih^ss, indeed, the siiuil). grisjlly i)articles which wu found occasioually Z -2 '',l:il i>70 AJJCTIC VOVAlJC?!. adlit'i-iiig fo tlio iH)ini(l('(l IxHics mny ho tn'ss thr lirart- ffll sorrow with whii h T was ovcrwlichnrd at tin- Inss of so many cotnpaiiioiis ; t's[)('('ial]y of my tiicnd ]Sh\ Ihtod, 1o \vlnisf /cmIoiis and ahir <-o-op('ralion I had hron indi-htrd tot- so iniicli iiivaluahlf assistaiR'o dwrinj,' the cxix-dilion, whil(» till' rxct'llfiit (jnalitics ot his heart. <'ni,'aLrt'd niv wannest rr- ^'anl. I lis sciiMititic observations, toiretiier with liis maps and drawiniis (,. small ]>art of wliieh only appeal' in this svork), evince a variety of talent, which, had his litl.> iieeii H|)ared, must have rendered him a dislin^nislied ornanieiit to his pro- fession, and which will cause liis (h'ath to he fell as a loss to tlie servici"."— 1*. -lUi. The intdancholy tale of disasters thnt had hefallen tlie ])arty l''i'ankiin left heliind is most lieart-rendiiiii, and is l"eelnii;ly iiiven in tlie narrative of Dr. Kicliardson, which is thus inti'odnced : " Thi'nuL'h the extreme kindness and foretlioupht oi a ladv, the party, jirevious to leaviuLT rction of reliixious books, of which we still retained tv o oi- three of the most portable, and thev ])rove(i (if incalculable benetit to us. We read portions of them to each other as wt> lay in bed in aal with so slroni,' a senx' of the omnipresence of a beneji- c'-nt (lod, ihatoiu' .situation, even in these wilds, ajtiieared no ",'n;:"r destitute ; and we conversed, ]iot oidy with cahnness, .tut with eheerl'ulness. di'tailiiii: with utu'estrained confidence the past events of our lixcs, and dwellinir with hope on our future prospects. Had mv poor trieiid been s|)ared to n-visit }iis native land, I shoidd look back to this period with unab loved deliuht."— P. 4 1!). The sunie kind of distress and sullering which aflUct- , I \ FIIANKLIX AND UICHARDriON rf JOURNnV. 271 110(1 dfsii."' iriiclcristics itccasidii ot' iMjylil. with •i'iiy«!r.s iiii'l I to our sit- Fniiikliu l)()n<^ soup. '\UiZ circuiii- .Miclicl. ;iii(l liirtun- ti'diii ill liis iiua s the licart- tlic loss of \v. I Inod, 1() ill(li-l)t"'(i t'oi ritioii, \vhil(» wannest n- lis iiiii|is and this work), ifcii spared, it to his |)ni- . as u loss to jefalh^M tlio liiiil, Hiiil is Isuii, whicli ht of ii lady, ■u f'tiniisli!'d liich we still they j)r()ved < of tiieiii to uoriiiM: and on each pe- ot' a heneli- iip[>eai"ed no fh cahnness, 1 confidence ho|)e on our od to n "visit [1 with una!' liicli aflUct- f'd llio i)arty »if Fort l']iif(M-|>riso, worci (lf'0|)ly a^'p;r}iva- tcd hy will' of fins <'l wood, and of ahility to provido snst(Mianc(\ hy llio coidncss of llu) wcatlicr, atid l)y llio extn-mc! dol)ility of j)oor Hood. On th(^ fiisf two -lay.s lliey liad nothiiii^ to cat c^xcfj)! an infusion of tli(» coun- try toa-plant, which was^M-atilyinj:; from its warnitli, hut aliorded no snstciiancti ; the second day was so sforniy, and tin? snow fell so heavy, tlnd they kept their heds. *if a lew niiserahlo skins and their clothing deserv(Ml th(» lunne. On the tliird day, Miclnd, the Irocpiois, hrouyht them a har(^ anil parlrid^i^: •• 'J'his unexpected supply.'' says Kichardson, " was received hy us with a deep seliso of jiratitndo to the AIini<:hty, and we looked upon AFicheJ as the instrument he liad chosen to preserve all our lives." ll(^ complaini'd of cold, and Mr. Hood offered to sharo liis hulfalo rohe v.'itli him at ni^dit ; the doctor j^ave him a shirt, and Hephiu-n, in the warmth of his heart, v\- claimed, " How I shtdl love this man, if I firid he does not tell lies, lik(* the others !" Hephurn had studied the man, and found cause to suspect him. The party this day, after iv iding the eveniiiij service!, retired to hed full of hope. Nothiiifjj, it may ho ohserved, like desponden- cy, not (nen a murmur, ever escaped from their lips. With ^-eat fatifj;ue, Kichardson and Hephurn, with Hood, removed to a wood of piiu's, to onahle th^-'m to Kee)) up a fire. The Iroquois was ahsent. Uc had, in- deed, refused for some days to doanythiiifr, hecnme sid- ky, and still continued so powerful, that it was :.tvu\]^\y suspected he had u hidden supply of nu-at for his own use. .Seeing flit; enduriiii,^ ohstinacy and rid'racfory spirit of this man, and his positivt; refusal eviui to collect frnie ilc roclic, now their sole dep(Mid(Mice, or to get firewood, tin^ doctor told him, that if iif) relief came from Foi-t Kn- terprise hefore the l20th, Hephurn and he should he dis- patched thither with a compass to enahle them to lind the house. J Jut at last a grave suspicion arose against this man. On the evening of his arrival at flu* pines, he pretended he had heen in chase of some deer, hut could not conuj up with tliem; yet hi* found a wolf, which had heen killed hy the stroke of a deer's liurn, and lie had hrought tliein a part ol it. I 1 1! ff '■ .i 11 il.V, I ^ ARCTIC VOYAGES. " We itiiplicifly liclii'vi'd tins sfoiy then, Imf nftcrw.ird lu^. rjimr ('(iiiviiitM-d, tVoiii circuiiistiiiicfs tlir dctiiil of which mav he s|)!irc(l, ihut it iiiiisl htivc liccti i portion of the IhhIv oI' H<'l.iiii:<'r (»r IN-ri-Jiult. \ t|iit'st.ioi, of inomrnt hi-if presents itscll', iiiiiticly. wlicthir li(> ;ictii;illv iiiufdrrcd llicsc iiii'ii. oi- rithcr of tliciii, or whether lie found tlit> lioilies iit the strnw. Krinikliii, who is the best ;ihlc to jiuij^e of the iiiiitter, Iroiii kiiowiiii,' their sitintiou in the snow ;it piirtinu'. w;is stroiii:l\ of o|)inion that hotli Hel;ini,'er :ind I'ei'rnult had been sacii- liced ; tliat Michel, havini,' already destroyed iieliini:»M', coiii- ])letrd his crime by I'erraiilt's death in ttrder to screen him- self from detection. With this idea np(!n our minds, aiid tifiiie to assist us. Hepburn and myself, in iiatherinjz as mm li /ri/ir lie rorhr as sutliced to prolong,' a miser;;blc CAisteiicc, and poor Hood irelliui,' weaker ev(>ry day, and ovidently sinkini; fast, our situation (.in better be (.•onceived than ex- Jtressed. " At this |)erIod we avoided as inucli as possible convei's- iuLf upon the hoiielessness of our situation, and {.'enerally en- deavori>d to lead the conversation toward our future pros- pects in lite. The fact is. that, with the (b-i-ay of oui titrenu'th. our minds decaved, and w'e were no Ioniser abh.' to l»eai- the contemplation of the Inu'rors that surrounded us. \'.\w\\ of us, if 1 may be allowed to judi:e from my own caM", excused himself from so doiiu: bv a desire of not slujckiii^ till" feeliuirs of the otlnu-s, for we were sensible* of one anoth- er's weakness of intellect, thouLrh blind to our own. Vet wc ^vere calm and resiLrned to our fate; not a murmur escaped lis. and we wen* punctual and fervent in our aildresses to the Supreme BeinLT." — I'- l")l- 'rile whole conduct of this man .Micliel, hy Dr. Ric-h- nvdsotj's accotiiit, eviiiccMl ii diaboliciil state of iniiid. He Nveiit out ii!oiit\ refusiiiij; to let tiny ()!i«> jjo with him; re- iiiaiin'd out tiie whole day, refiisitii; to sleep in tlie tent ; reliinn^d contradictory iind evasive answers to any (jues- tioiis put to liim; rei;retted lie had (jiiitted Fiaiikliirs ))arty, and rei'iised to cut wood; spoko in a very surly manner, tmd threatened to leaver tlii' party. ( )n tlie tiHU'iiiiiii of the "JOth IJr. Ivic.iiiu'dson says ho left .Mr. Hood siltinii by the tire and ariiuinij witii Mi- cliel, "Soon after uoitiij, out,"' says Richardson, "to ij;al,her some rock-tripe. I heard the rc^portof a jiuu ; and about ten minutes afterward Hepbiu'ii callcMl to me in a voice of iireat alariu to come directly. When 1 arrived, I Ibuuii poor Hood lying lit'eloss ut the fireside, a bull huv- 1 1 niANKLIN WD RICFIAllDSON'ri JOURMCY. SIH nftt-rwunl !)(>. )t" wliicli iiiiiv tllf l>il(iv 111' llCl'C })l'<"SIMlts llicsc iiK'ii. or < ill till- SMilW. mutter, tidiii w!is St roil;:! y (1 hci'ii siicii- lt'liiili.'rf, ('(Mii- () screen liiiii- r iiiiinls, ;iiiu •i'iii;z iis iiiiii h tie e.\isleiicc, 11(1 e\iileii!ly ivi'd tliau tx- \vii. Yet \vc |rniiir esraped ilresst's to tin.' y Dr. Rich- t iniiid. i in [itli him; re- in tlio tent; ^o any (pics- |(l FmiiUliirs very surly Iso'i says ho liil with 3Ii- ]ir(lsoii, " to a ffiiM ; and to nio in a jn 1 arrived, I, a ball hav- '"S ajij^arontly (Mifercd his forrlicad. T was at th'st hor- i'(ir-stiiick with tlic idea that, in a lit of despondency. Iio liail hurried hiii'seM" into the ])resenee of Ids Alnni,dity •t of h hand : l>ut th iliict of ,lii(ii,'e ny an act oi ins own liariu; iiur tiie eoniliicl oi Micliel soon j^ave I'ise to otlnu" thoii<^hts, and excited sus- picions whi(di were conlirnuMl when, upon exaniiniiiii the Ijdily, I (hMcov(>red that flio sliot liad entered the back part of Xhd head, and passed out iit the foreliead, and that tlie muzzle of the ijun had been applied so close as ti) set tire to the! night-ciip behind. The whole conduct of this man into considera- tion, no otlun' coiKdusion could \)^'■ drawn than that ho woidd attemj)t to destroy Ricluu'dson and H(>pburn the lirst op[)ortunity that oifered. The two wer(^ in no <-ondition to resist even an opeu atttick, nor could tliey, hy any device, esctipe from him ; liis strength was pow- erful, and, besides his gun, he was armed with two pis- tols, an Indian bayonet, imd a knite. In th(^ afternoon he went to a rock under pretence of collecting frijtr. dr. /■orlic, and said he would soon be witii us, this being tho first time sIikm) Mr. Hood's death that lu^ had left tlio two officers together. Hepburn was not easily to bo imposed upon. He gave such an account of the mati, that Dr. Richardson was satisfied tiiere, could b(^ no safety for theiu except in liis death, and Hepburn pro- pijstid to be the instrunuMit of it. 1- ll im AKCTIC VUV AGIOS'. li (mi ' 1 I Ml < ' " 1 »l('lciiiiiiu'(l, liDwrvcr (savs Hirli;irilsoi;\ ms I was lln,;-- ou;;lilv <'iin\ iiicrd of iIk- ticc -ssily ul" siicli :< tlrrMdl'iil ad, td tiiUr till" wlidlr ri'>|i(iiisil)iliiy upon iiiyscH"; ;ni. I pnl an viui to hi^ lilr l)y sIkmiI- iiii; liiiii llirniii:li (he head willi a pistol. Had mv own lifi- jiloiio Itrrii lliicatt'iicd, I would not liav<» piircliasi'd it hy Hiicli a incasuro ; Imt I coiisidf-ird iiivsolt' as iiitiiistid alsi» \villi till' pnttoctioii ot' llcitlMini. a man v»lnj. hy his lniniMti(« Mtli'iitioii and di'votcdncss. had ho (Mid'-arcd himsrlt to nir, that 1 t'oh more aiixirty ior his sal'cly than ilir my iwii. Mi- tliol had L;alliiT('d no /ri/ir dr rocZ/cand it was cvidciit to us that he had lialtcd I'or the pur]>osi< ot" jinttin;,' his ^\m in or- diT. with till' intention ol atlackinL; ns, p('rh!'.[)s, while we were in th(> a( t ol' encamping,'." — i'. I.)!!. The loss ol'ixtor Hood was a severe hlow, mid IJich- jmlsoii and I li'phtirii had llic last luounitwl oirico lo per- forni over his r<'mains hy interring tlii> hody in a chunp t»r willows, and fcudiiii; the t'luuMiil siM'vitH^ in addition to \\\o vwuMXix piayiMs. " The loss of a yonn^ olVicfM' of sncli distinirnished and va- ried tali'nt-i and api)lication may he felt and duly appreciati d liv ilie eminent tharactiTs under whose mnnnand he had K(>rved ; hut the ralnmess with which li<» fontemplaled the prohaMe termination of a life of nnconnnon promise, and the patience and tortitud<> with which he sustained, 1 may ven- ture to say. unparalleled bodily sutl'erin^s. t'an only he known to the companions of his distresses, /iickrrsfr/f/'s Srr//>/iirf //(/;) was Ivinu opiMi heside the hody. as if it had fallen from his hand, and it is prol)al)le that he was readini^ it at the iii- Ktant of his death."' — V. [mk l.")?. Dr. Kii'hardsoii says that in thr ])roc(»diiij; ptirt of llm narrative ho lias dwelt upon many circinnstaiit'es of iMiohel's iH>iiduct, " nnt for the purpose of UimravatinL: liis eriine. hut to put the reader iii jiossessioii of tlit^ vi>asons that iiilUienced nic in depriving u follow-crea- ture of life." Six days had the two remaiiiiii^'; desolate and inihappy travelers to ^h•a^ tlieinst>lves through deep snow, with- out food, and almost without any fii'o. existing on li- chens and serapings of tlic skin cloak of {)oor Mr. Ilootl. On till' fifth day .Dr. Richardson fell down among largo .vtones uiidtM- the snow more than twenty times, and says, at liMigth he hecaine so exhausted as to he uiiahle to stand. " If llephurn had not e.xerted himsi'lf bi-yond •J ' l'RA\KT (h-cw niLrli «iiu' oMcn ( licfirnl residence, \vc h;i(l \)i-('n ai^ilatcd liy niatiy nidan- clinly lorrliodiiif^'s. Upiiii cMtcriiii,' the now dfsuliiti- iaiildiiiL', wi- li;id tlif satisliiction ot ciMliniciiiL,' ('apl;iin Franklin; hnt. 11.1 words can cmivcv an idi-a of two of his most laithlnl Canadians, Pidtier and Saniandre, who dieil two days alter tho arrival of liich- ardson and Hephnrn, when, had lln^y not, lortnnatidy conn', I'^ranklin would havo heen left, with ono solitary coni|)anion, sick luid hclphiss as himself, and hotli so nttnrly uiiahle to assist lh(Miiselv(;s, that. eij;ht,-and-forty lioni's, nay, half thiit, tnie, would probably havo put an (Mid to their misery. Tho whole labor, therefore, of procurinjj; tin^wooil, of scrapinfj; toy;(^tlu!r old pieces of skins and fraifinents of bone, (l(!volved on lliciiardson and Hepburn, whoso strcMij^th had rapidly >een decliii- in;;, and was ntuirly ('xhausted; whon, providentially, on the 7lli of Novtnnber, the loiiif-(^x|)e(;ted relief ar- rived by three Indians, forwanUid by Jia(;k. Captain Franklin, at this time, thus describes their condition : " I may Inn-e remark, that, owuij^ to oin' loss of fl(!sh, tho liardiiess of the lloor, troni which wi> wen; <>aly prottjctcui by a blanket, prodnced soren(!Ss over the body, and ospi-cially llio.s(> parts on which the weight rested in lyiiii,' ; yet to turn ourselves for relief was a matter of toil and dilliculty. How- ever, during this period, and, indeed, all aloiii,' after the acnto piins of liinigiM', which lasted but thret; or four days, bad i^f M 270 Aucru; voYAGi:?*. I! I I 'I i ,. 1 Buhsidt'd. wp i:l<'!isiiut. cliiinictci'. liriiiir very (il'trii !ili(iiit llic fiijuviiH'iils nl ^t•;ls^illf,^ In tlic (l;i\ tiiiif we It'll into llir |>c;i(ti(T ol' coii- vcrsiui: on connnon iind liu'lit snliji'iMs, ;iltlionu'h we soinr- tinii's (liscnsscd with scrionsncss .-nid fiirncstncss topics (d;;- ucctcd willi rcliLrion. We f:i'ncr;dly iivros|)cf( ot'rr. lict". I oliscrvcd th;it. iu |iro|)oi'f ion ;is onr stft-njitli drc.ivi'd, oin" minds cxhiltitt'd symplonis ot' wcMUiifss, cvincfd \i\ n kind of iinrcisonnMo pcttislincss with each other, liacli of us thontzht the othrr wcakrr in iutrllect than himself, ami mitre in need of advice and a>sistance. So tritlinu a circ urn- stance as a ( liani,'e ol' place, I'ecommended Ity one as lieiiii; warmer and more coiid'ortal>le, and refnsed by the other from a dread of motion, frecpiently called llirtti fretfnl e.\|)ressions, \'. hich were no sooner nttered than atoned for, to lie repeat- ed, periia|)s, in the course of a few nnuutes. The .same thinL,^ often occurred when we endeavored to assist each othei- in carrvinir wood to tlu' lire; none of us were williiii,' to I'eceivc assistance, allhonLrh the task was dis|)roportioned lo our strenutli. On one of these occasion' lle|tliurn was so con- vinced of this waywardness, that he < xclaimed, ' Dear me I if we are s|) ired lo rctnrii to laiirland, 1 wonder if we shall recover our uMderstandinirs I' " — I'. K!."). hid. 'Vhv su|)i)li('s sent hy llnck set all to riylits, hut not without tho uretitest caution ai;ainst I'cph'tion. On tlie 1 -Mil. 11 nolo from I'ack, iidonnin<; tlioni of Ills intention lo proceed to Kort I'j'ovidcnce, ])repare(l them idl, with- out delay, to liastoii thithcf; hut Dr. liichafdson could Uct no iarthiT llian ahoul thi'ce miles, he hidiiii hy much ihe weakest of the party. Franklin says (to tiie lionor of tlu> Indians), it was tliey "who j)repared our eu- camj)ment, cooked for us, and fed us ijs if we liad been idiildren. eviucini> liumanity that would have done lionur to the most civili/ed peoi)I(>." Mv. IJack's narra'ive is hut ti coidimiation of the same kind of su'l'erin^s by fainiiu^ and cold which pursued his footsteps. For days 1h^ tind his party had iu)thinii; to eat ; even fripr e\vvaa on the .jth of .lune, we arrived on the '1th of .July at Norway House, rindini,' at this pla(<> that canoes were ahoiit to go down to M .Ureal, T discharj,'ed all our Canadian voya^'ers, and sent them liv these vessels, fiirnishiiiLT thein with orders on the ai:»Mit of the Hudson's Hay Company for the amount of their waires. We cairied .\ui.nistiis down ti York Fac- tory, where we aiTiv/ ■i ; to, |t 278 auctk; voyahkh. m>r ill its most iippiilliiii:; cliiirnctifr, want of fuel, Wiint of clotirni*^, wiiiit ol" ('((vrriiii; iVoiii tlio iiicl(MiH!iicy ii{' t\u* wcatluM", 'lrii:;yiiiu; tlicir weiiiicil Ixnlif's tor ii pio- tnictiMl period over a l)arr»Mi coiiiitry hiiricd in (Iccp •snow, and hcariiii; all their iiii.s(M*i«!S without a iiinrinnr, and, above all, with a devout resiu;iiatioii to the iJivino will, and a confident hope, in the v(My last ((Xtreinity, of the goodness and mercy of their heavenly l"'atlier, wiiicli, ill His own ijood time, thoy wero fully coiitideiit would l)(! extended to them. Siadi conduct, under siicli su(r('!rin,c;s, supportcMl hy su(di feelinjis, must ever cause the names and nuMiiory of Sir John Franklin, Sir (refirjie! IJack, Mr. Hood, and Dr. Kichanisoii to \m held in liii^h re;:;ardand estimation, in wlTudi we may \w well assurcMl every on Amerii'an coast which lior- ders tlie INtlar Sea on its southern side. L'icntvnduf Bus]\naik^ who had served with Koss and I*arry in tlieir Arctic voyaveral ladies fearlessly enibarhed in it, aud were paddled ucross tii« Thames in a fresh bree/e. In the preparati(»us uothiuii; a|)p(!urs to have been omitted. Scieutitic iustrumouts of all kinds, fowliuj;- j)iec,es aud amnumition, mai-(|uees and tents, lieddin;;, clothinu;, and water-proof di-esses, ihjur, arrow-root, luac- raroni, portable soup, clu)colate, essence of colfeo, sunur and tea, not omittiuij; an adetpuite supply of that essen- tial article for all North Amei"icau ti'avelers, pnniulcdn. In short, whatever of use or luxury could be suiiyested, was provided, to obviate, as Fi'auklin said, "any appre- lieusion of similar daubers to those exptu-ienced on tim former exj)edition." When all was completed, on the IGth of February, 18"^'>, Captain Kraukliu, Lieutenant iJack, Dr. ilicharll- son, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, with four marines, embarked at l^iverpool on l)oard tin* Amtuican j)acket; Columbia for New Y'ork. It would be thouy;ht a waste of the reader's tiim^ to wade through a dcstail of their reception in Anuirica, aud of their |)rot:^-(\ss alony the rivers, over the lakes and porta}j[es, with the luunerous obstructions and difficulties tliey encountered, but rath- er to })roceed at once to larid them in safety at Fort Chipewyan on the L'ith of .luly, 18-J5. ''J'heu- early ar- rival, it seems, caused ^i-eat sui'prise to its inmates, b(^- iuij only two days later than the time wheu Kicduu'dson and Hood had arrivtul in IHIIJ, thou^di they came only fr(im Cumberland House, where they had win^crtMl. It will bo sutiicieut. to say that the wliole j.irty us^ A'a 'i I I ' ' t ') i! Iri' I \ , I, f M t ' ; i ' 282 ARCTIC V(>VAr.r,.«=i. r«mmI)I«!(1 on \\\i\ blinks of tlici (irriit l»«'ar r^iiko I\i\tM", wliicli (lows out ol" tliaf liikn on tli«i western .side im,) the ,Miick»Mi/,ir Kiv»n", flown which thry wcro to di-- srcnd to the sea. ( )n their arrival at its mouth, th*' (>\. plurcrs wcro to divido thoinselvj's, a^rroahly with tluOr ollicial instructions, into two parties; the one, under ('aptiiin h'riinklin, to proceed wjisterly, alonj; the north- ern coast ot" America as liir as ley ('ape, or to tlu» en- triince of nehriny's Strait, where he was told he miulil expect to find II. INI. ship lilossojn, under the orders of ('aptidn |{oechey. 'J'lu^ other party, under Dr. Ivicli- ardson, was to depart at the same time from the mouth ot" tlu^ same riv«^r, and proceeding easterly alony the Hiuiw^ roast, continuo till he reached the mouth of the ('opp«'r Mine Kiver. l*revious, however, to the com- mencement of those expeditions alon^ the coast, Frank- lin uuidr^ the followiiif? arran^ fort, was lent to them for the jmrpose of intro- ducing the party to the Louclumx chief. Lower down, a party of theses j)eopl(» stood ga/ing at the sti angers with much distrust, and refused to accept their invita- tions, till at length a youth, gayly dressed, paddled elf in his bout, and discovering Augustus, whom he recog- nized as an Esquimaux, rose up in his canoe, threw up his hands for joy, and desired eveiy one to come olf at: once. "They caressed Augustus, danced and played around hiin, to testify their joy at his appearance amo»ig tliem ; and we could not lu^lp admiring the demeanor of our excellent little companion under such unusual and extravagant nuuks of attention." ^J"'he river was now divided by islands into several I , :l, i! ' ft ) i m ■ ) ^^ 5 M •284 ARCTIC VOYAGES. cliiiiiiu'ls. '^rijiM was till* sixtlnliiy after tlicir dcpni't me ; and litM'ii they passed tlui last ot'tlici •'•i-trrcs, in latitiKio iiH" 40', tli(^s(i hcinysiiccct'dcd hy stuiittMl willows, wliirh becaiiHi iiioi'c dwurtisli us they iipproac'luHJ th«» sea. Af- ter th«* dissipation of a thick foji, the expanse ol' water to the northward was soijreat, that Franklin was inclined to think they had n'ached the st^i ; and in this he was almost contirnied on reaciiiiii; the sliorti of Fllice Jwland, wlnT(^ they " wtM"(^ rejoiced at tilt! sea-likt< appearand) to the northward."' "This point was observed to In* in lat. (i!)^ 14', lon of the main chnnnt^l of the iMa(d\(Mi'/ie. Kiver, which from Slaves Lake to this point is one tliousand a?id forty-tive mih^s. according; to our survey." On reacliinj^ Whale Island. In* was satisfied that, lik«' Mackenzie, hi* had reached the sea ; but, on tastiiiij; the water, found it; to be pertV'ctly fresh; still lu* was persuad«'d he hail reached the sea, and observiiii^ an island to the north- ward lookinj; bliK* by its distance, tho boat was directed toward it. Abcuit midway tliey wt^rt^ caujiht by a stroiif"; contrary wind, against which the crew contend- ed for five hours, tite waves brcNikiiii; into tho boat; the sails were set, whiidi, with a change in tiu^ wind, ena- bled th(MU in the course of anotlun- hour to fiMch into smoother watei", under the ]vi'' of the island. "We tluMi ])ulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the termination of the fresh water, that on the seaward sid(> beinji brackish, and in the farther proiiress of tlire(> miles to the island we liad the indescribable ])leasure of linditii: the water decidedly salt." This is p(>rhaps no- ticed in allusion to Macken'>''"> havinj; been blamed tur jiot ascertainiuii that the ^^ t(>r was salt by UiStinij it. Franklin .says, that with his littU* frail craft ho could not: liave ventured beyond Whale Island, or three miles, to prove its saltness; but the boundless liorizon. tin* tide, and tiu> sij2;ht of porpoises antl whales, were miou^di to induce him to say that lu* had arrived at the ocean. F'rankliu says they had often occasion to admire tho ^(Mieral correctness of Mackenzie's surv(»y. " in justice to liis memoiy, \ hope tlu* custom of calliuii this tlui Great Kivcu. which is iii i;eiieral use amonfi the trad(M-s, will be discontinued, and that the name of its emineut discoverer may be uuiversuHv adoi)ttM|," rUANKLlX 6c UM'llAIM)HO\'rf SCCOM) JOUUNIiV. 285 [Icpni'tiirr : in latiliido l)\VS, wliicli i StMl. A 1- t' (>r water ,iis inclined lii.s lie, \v!is lice, Iwliiml, ippcinuMco ed to \n\ in irtheasterii r/ie. Kiver, ousand and 'n reaching; i\on/,ie, ho T, found it; •d he liad tho nort Il- ls directed llfiht hy u V conteiid- l)oat ; tlu^ wind, ena- fetcli into id. -W(. di marked le seawaid •*s of llirec^ )lousure of 'rha|)s iio- >hniie(l fur \;.stini); it. J could not; I? miles, to , tlu^ tide, euou^di to ho ocean, dmiro the ' In just !('<■> il thi.s tho lio traders, s eniinont On (!arrv Tslaixl werf found several layers of wood- coal and hituininous rKpior. KranUfin had put a piece of the former in his pocket, w!ii(d» had ignited s|)ontan(^- niislv , and s(or(died the metal powder-horn by its side. I'rom the summit of this island "the sea a|)peared in all its majesty, entirely free iVom ice, and without any vis- ible ol)stru(;tion to its navigation, and nevvas a pros- pect mon^ i^ratifyiiif]; than that whiidi lay (tpcn to us.'' lint on landing, an incident occurred, tin; occasion of whi(di, on leavin<; J^nj^land, had created in his mind a severer struuuh' Ijolweeii the feedings of alfection and a sense of duty, and thos(^ fetdings were powerfully awa- kened (Ml th(^ present occasion. Just as he was about to leave England, his beloved wife, then lying at the point (if death, with heroic fortitude urged his departun^ at the very day appointed, entreating him, as he valued her peace of mind and his own gkny. not to delay a moment on her account; that slu^ was fully awarc^ that her days were numbered, and that his delay, even if she wMshed it, coidd only be to close her eyes. Sh(» diird the day after he hd't Ikm'. Jt was to this circumstance that allu- sion is made in the following passage, " wdfudi," it was AV(dl observed by a friend of iiis, " will speak to the heart of every one wdio is ca|)al)le of understanding tin* grace that doiiK^stic tenderness lends to the gallant fortit«-.ao of jiubfu; enterpris(\" " During our al»seiice the men bad pitched the tent fni llio liciicti, and I caitscd the silk unioii-ilag to be hoisted, wbicli my deeplv-hiiiKMited wife bad made and jiresenb'd to me, na it i)Mrtiiig"gift, under the express iajiuiction tiiat it was not to Im- uiifiirled before tlie exj>e(lition readied th(! t-ea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions us it expanded to tin; ])ree/e; however natural, and, tor the moment, irn-sistible, I felt that it was my duty to suppress them, and tliat I bad no ii::lit, by an in(l(di,'eiice of my own sorrows, to cloud the aiii- inat(>d countenances of my compaiiioiis. .loiniiig, therefore, with the best grace tliat I conid command, in the general ex- (iti'meut, I endeavored to return, with correspondiiii: clu'cr- I'ulness. their warm congratulations on having thus planted tho Kriti.ili ilag on this remote island of the J'olar Sea." — 1'. •'^(i. ('ircuinstiinced as he was with a party many of whom liad never seen the sea, and others in constant appre- hension of being attacked by tlio Ks(piimaux (an api)re- i } k if : ( mmmam i •Ml :!t ■( '. < %^r h I ; I r 28G ARCTIC VOYAGEri. lionsion tlint was nMili/od on tlio sorond visit to tlio spot), it W!is expedient, liowcivrr j)iiiiit'ully di.stnj.s.sin^f, lo ]u\\i iti iho tj;('iirnd (ixcitc'iiicnl, uiid not to suHjir it to lliii; hy niiy ii|)j)riii'iiMco ot" sorrow or despondency. In doing so, li(! says : " Some spirits, wliicii had Ix'tMi saved for tho occasion, wt>ro issued to the men; and with three fervent cheers tliey drank to the healtii of our beloved monarch, antl to the continiK i] Hiuces.s of our enterprise. Mr. Keiuhdl and I had also ir- served ii little of onr brandy, in ftrder to celebrate this iuter- estini,' event ; bnl na])tiste, in liis delijlit of beholdinir t|,y Hi-a, had set before us some salt water, which havinir befri tiii.xed with the. brandy btifore the mist.:k(^ was discovered, W(> were reluctantly oblii,'ed to fore^'o the int(Mul(>d drauf,'lit, and to use it in the more classical form of a libation poured on the irround." — 1'. 'Mi, U7. (.'aptain FranUlin wiis now desirous of procecnlinii; westwiird, to niak(^ sonic* farther (examination in aid of tho future operations of the exj)e(htion, and of reachiiiij, if possible, tlu^ foot (tf the Rocky Mountains ; hut a i;ale of wind, violent s(pialls, and a threateniiiii; appearance, induced hiui to giv(i up tlui attempt and to regain tho river, in )](ler to make tlu^ best of their way i)ack to the fort, which they readied on the 5th of .S«'ptoniher, wlu're Dr. Richardson and all tlio other members of tho expe- dition were jussembled. Tho buildings for their winter (piartiM's were! in a state of great forwardness. Tho dwelling of \ho ollicers measured 44 feet by 'J4, and con- tained a hall and four apartments, besides a kitchen; that of tho men was 3C! bv 2'.i feet, and divided into tlireo rooms. 'JV) this comfortable residence for eight or nine months, " the otFicers," says Franklin, " had done nm the honor, pri«vious to my airival, of giving the name of I'^anAiin, which 1 felt a grateful pleasure in retaining at llicMr desire, though I had intended to name it Fort Re- liance." To pass the winter in a much higher degree of lati- tude, as Parry did on board ship, was thought nothing of; it recpjired only eni{)loyment for othcers and men, in or- der to short(Mi tlu^ time of confinement. Franklin was well aware of, and seems to have taken a lesson from, the regulations of Piu-ry. The Canadians and tho In- dians had j)lenty of employment for the first four or live v FRANKLIN &, RKIlAUDriON'ri SECOND JOURNKV. 2b7 tlio .spot), ri^, to join to lliiij; Ity I doiiijf so, isioii, w(>n) tlicy ilraiik ' <'oiitiiiiic(l •id iilso I'c- ' this intrr- loldiuLT tliu living' licf-rl liscovcrcd, ■d (Iniiiiilit. ion poured n'occMidiiis; in iiid of : reaching, but a i:al(i )p('araiicM', rcj^aiu tlio tack to tlio jcr, wlu'io the oxi)e- oir winter ess. Tho I, and con- chon; that, into tliveo dit or nino done nio e name of etaininsT at ; Fort Re- po of lati- lotliing of; lien, in or- iinklin \vas sson from, nd tho In- "our or live ninnths, in hunlinj:; and fishini; for the support of tho whole iiarty. 'V\nt rcinih'fr were scarce in the autumn, and in tho winter desei'ted them altoj^ethiM'. The fish- iui; was more .successful, and durinjj; the. autumn the net.s yitihjed daily iVom three, to eij^ht hundred lish, of tho Ivintl called " herring siUni' n ;" also some trout, tittameg, and carp. Tlu^ otlicers employei' themscdves in making and reg- istei'ing th<^ various meteorological ol)servations, in copy- ing tluiir journals and remarks, in fmishing tlu! (diarts, diawings, and sketciies, and in assisting Dr. Richardson to examine^ and arrange thc! numerous objects of luitural history that had Ixmmi collect(!d. JJut it was "(pially neo essary to lind emj)loyment for the, seam»'n and tlu; vari- ous residents of the house, whose want Oi education r«Mi- dc^'ed it more dillicult to provide for. The plan adopted by Franklin is thus described ; " As the days shortened, it was necessary to find einjdoy- ineut, duriuf,' the loiieablyas possible to each other, until Uie return of spring should enable them to resume tho great object of the expedition." — V. 51, 55. Matters went on pretty well till tho conclusion of tho year ; but, owing to the extreme severity of the weath- er in January and February, the sources from which (T-f *ll 1-/ - ! ( I i I y 28S ARCTIC VOYAl^Krf. tlioy liatl li'tlicM'tr, (lorivj'd subsistoiiro fiiilod tlioiii. ''I'lio llicrmoiiK'It'v It'll to — l!)"" on tho 1st of .liiiiunry, hciug tilt' lowest poii't to wliifh it (lesceiidtMl ; hut this scvt'ii! wciithcr WHS ot slioft (liii'iition. tor on tlic! .'M a siiow- sfonn ciiiTictl it u|. to — !)^ : tho liiiihost tVotn tlu^ 1st to the loth W!is H^ H', iuid tlic nifiiii —2\V^ 7'. All tho aii- iiimls liiul inigrjitotl to the southwiird oxco|)t tlit^ wolf and th(^ tox. All tlio! dried meat was expended, and no ficsii llesh could ho procured ; tho lisli cauyht did not allow juori* than three or foiu' snuill herriniis to oiich man, which, beiny on* of season, uHbrdt^d little nourishnuMit, and caustnl indisposition. They wtMUi therefore oi)li(;ed to havt^ recourse to their provision of peminican, arrow- rt)()t, and portable soup, which had boon set ni)art for the voyages aloiiij; the sea-coast. By the middle of Ajn'il a lar<;o supply of mort was l)rouii' departiu'o ; besides, tho animals were bejfiiniing to jwur in from tho southward. Of those and other " pluMiomena connected with tho progress of tho seasons kept at l''oit Franklin,"* Dr. Richardson records, that on the 11th of September tho musqu^toos ccMised to b(^ troiibl(!somo ; on tho "Jd of October, swans in lli^lit to tlie southward ; on tho oth the last swans wore soon. On tho shortest day tho sun was above tho horizon 2h. ■^i-!m. lOth of Ajjril, a house-fly seen in tho open air. On th(> ()th of May the first swans were seen; on tlio 7th tlu' jj;eese ap})eared ; on t^he 8th tho ducks ; on tlie lull tho j,Mills ; on the 11th the first rain fell ; on tho 17th various sinyini; birds made their appearance ; on tho '2'i\\i the first lauiihing-seoso were soon; and on tho .31st tho goatsuckers brought up tho roar : and many others, as ■well as various plants, are reiristered. In the course of tho month of May the preparations >vere nearly comi)lete, and an additional new boat finish- etl, after th(> model of the Lion, named tho Reliance. In June the boats were all afloat and maimed. Fourteen men, including Augustus and two Canadian voyagers, were to accompany Franklin and Back in the Lit)n and Reliance ; and ten, including Ooligbuck (another Esqui- ■ Appciulix, J). 71, tublo 75. \-' 'U\. I no ii-y, being his scvtTtj I !l SllOW- tlio 1st to ill lllO !111- wolf and (1 no iVt'sh not allow 'acli man, irishnuuit, )r(! ohli^iMl an, arrow- art tor tlio iiiprt was l?av Com- [ food miti! imals wcro ■ thesti and •ess of tlio 1)11 records, )0S c(!ased ns ill lli^ht ,vere seen. ori/on '2li. 1 open air. n ; on the s ; on tlie In the 17th 1 the -2; I h e 31st the others, as >paratioiis loat finish- I Reliance. Fourteen [voyagers, Lion and ler Esqiii- FRANKLIN &l UUiIARDriO\'ri SECOND JOURNEY. 289 niiuix), to go with Richardson and Konuall in the Dol- phin and I nion. The position of Fort Frmklin was deterinined ; its latitude 55^ 11' 5(i", longiiude 123^ 12' 44" W., varia- tion -.v.)" 9' E., dip 82'^ od' 1')". The whole i)arty embarked on 15ear Luke River on the 24th of June, the 23d being a sultry day ; the thermom- eter in the shade at noon 71°. and at 3 P..M. 74^ : tlie ice drifting down in large masses, and with such ra{)idity as to HMider eml)arcation unsafe. It ceased, how«'ver, at eight th(? following morning, and allowed tluMii to pro- ceed : in the evening they entei'cd tlici Mackenzie River. On h'aving Fort (iood Hope on the 2d of .Inly, being on the border of tiie Esquimaux territory, it was deemed expedient to arm tlie men, and a gun, dairger, and ani- inunition were issued to each person. On tlie 3d tiiey reached tlie broad part of the river, where dill"erent cliannels branch olf; and here the reparation of the par- ties was to take place. The \vest(!rn branch was the roule to be ))ursuedby the boats of Franklin's party, and the eastern branch by those of Richardson ; the former to proceed along tiie northern coast westerly as far as ley Cape, where it was expected to fa!! i:i witli the Blos- som ; the latter 1o examine the coast-line l)etween the nnnith of the Mackenzie and that of the C\,pper Mine River, and having reached tht^ latttM', he was directed to proceed by land to tlie northeast arm of tin; (Ireat Bear Lake, where a Imat would meet and convey him to Fort Franklin. The Lion, under the command of Captain Franklin, had a crew of six men, with Augustus the in- terprettu*. Tin; Reliance, under tlie orders of Lieuten- ant Back, was manned with seven men, consisting of four seamen, a marine, and two Canadian voyagers. Franklin's Voi/a^e to the Westward. To follow Franklin first, on his voyage to the west- ward, after ])assing through several shallow channels be- tween islands and the main, trending westerly. On the 7th of July th(5 i)arty reached tlie mouth of the river, and Franklin, walking toward th(> shore, disiovered on an island a crowd of tents, with many Estpiimaux stroll- ing among them. He tlu'refore haiitened back to the 1:■ I boat to proparo for a roiniminicalion with thcin, and to srit'ct certain articles for presents and trade. \lo }^av(5 orders, in ciisc^ these j)eopl(» should sliow intenti(»ns of liostility, to forbid tiring till ho should set the exain])le, or till oi'dercd to do so by Lieutentuit Jiack. The boats st(u?i'ed toward tlio tents under easy sail, witii the ensij^iis llyiniLj ; unfortuimtely, tliey grounded wlien about a mile from tlui beach. Signs wer(> made to the Ksfpiimaux to como otf. l^hreo canoes instantly put olf, but before they couli^ reach the boats, others were lanched in such (piick succession, that tlu^ whole spac1 for larui' elicial tiado tossed up g shout of liappeneil ioats, whieli ving consu- oii's oiu's, its in the niiid. We instantly id look him u out of his with cold, he was ex- lis situation; iiv l)ale^^ and IRAXKlilN & KlCIIARDriUN'ri SECOND JOl.UNEY. '2i)l dtlu"'' articles in tlic hoal. which had hci-n cniiccalcd ti'oiii tho jicople in tin- kaiyacks i)y the covcrinL's iicini,' cai'ctidiN >|)ica(l over idl. lie soon hcL'an t(» ask foi' cmts' thinL( he saw, and (■.\|ii'c.- demands ; lie also, we al'tei-ward Ifai'nrd, excited the cii- |iidity of othiTs hy his accouul of the int>xhanstil)le riches in llie l^ion, and several of the youmziT men endeavored to ^'et into lioth our boats, but wo resisted all their altem[)ts." — 1*. lUl, lo-J. Tlu'y coiitiiHied. however, to ])ress. and made many ell'orts to get into tln^ boats, while the water had ebbed so far that it was not knee-deep at the |)Iac(> w here they lay ; mid tlio younger men. wtiifing in crowds ar(tinid them, tried to steal i^very tiling they conld reach. Thei JUdituice being iitloat, was driigi:eil by the crowd toward the shore, when Franklin directed the crew of the Lion (which Wiis aground and innno\al)le) to endeavor to fol- low lu'r ; hot she renniined fast until tli(> Kscjuimaux lent their tiid luid dragsio.l iu'r after the Ktdiance. One of the Lion's men perceived that the man who was \\\)sel liad ii pistol under his shirt, whicdi it was discov- vvod had been stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief, seeing it to be noticed, leaped (uit of the botd and joined his countrynuMi, carrying witli him tli(^ great-coat which Augustus iiiid lent him. " Two of the most powerful men, jumping on l)oard at the same fimi', sei/<"d me bv the wrists and forced me to sit be- t\ve(Mi tlii^m ; and as i shook them loose two or three times, a tliii'd ivscjuimaux took his station in front to catch mv arm whenever I attempted to lift luy ^nni, oi- the broad daL'uer which hung bv my side. 'I'he whole way to the sliore they kept repeating the word ^ fei/nui,' beating i,'ently on mv left lii'easl with their hands, and ])ressiu.ir mine against their breasts. As we neared the beach, two oomiaks hill of wom- en arrived, and ihc 'fci/mas^ aiul vociferation w(>re redoubled. TIk? Reliance was first brought to the slior(>, and tlie Lion «lnse to her a few six^onds afterward. The three men who held mo now leaped ashore, and those who had remained in their canoi^s, taking them out of the water, carried tiiem to u littl(> distance. A numerous ])arty then drawing their knives, and stripping th(>mselv(,*s to the waist, ran to the Reliance, and, having lirst hauled her as far up as they criuld, beirau a regular j)illage, hamliiig the articles to the womi'U, wh(t, rammed in a row behind, (puckly conveyed them out of si^ht," —P. 101. 4 m AIICTIC VOYAGES. II . i' li ( " 111 sliort, jiCicr ii I'lirious conicsi, wIumi knives wcin hrandislH'd in a most tlu'ciifoiiinsi; nimnicr. scxcnil nl'tlu! men's (rlotlies cut tlifoii^li, iind the hiittidis ni" others toiii fVt)ni their coats. Ijientenant IJack oi"(h're(l liis j)eo|)le to seize and hnci their niwsUets. hut not to lire till the Avurd was i:i\en. This liad the desired eU'ect, the whole crowd takinii to their lieels and liidinji themselves he- hind tl'c dril't-timher on the heach. Captain l-'ianklin still thoniiht it best, to tempoi'i/c^ so lon^ as the l)oiit> were lyinj^ aiironnd ; tor, armed as tlie Kscpiimanx were witli lotiy knives, hows, arrows, and spears, lirc^-arnis conid not have been used witli advantage against so nn- iiierous 11 host. Fianklin, inileed, states liis conviction, " consideriiiii the state ot" excitement to wliich they had worked themselves, that the fnst blood which his j)arty iiii,i;ht imfortonately have siied would instantly ha\(j been revenf^ed by the sacrifice of all their lives."' As soon as the boats were alloat and makiiii; to a se- cure anchoraiie, seven or eif^ht of the niitives walktd aloiii; the beach, enter(Ml into conv(!rsation with Aii;;us- tiis, and invited him to a coiderenco on shore. " I was unwillitiii to let him ^o," says l-'ranklin, "but ili«» biii\e littk^ fellow entreated so earnestly tiiat 1 would sull'ei' him to land and i"ej)rove tht^ Ks(|uimaux for their con- iliict, that I at U'ntjth conscMited.'' On his return, bein^ desiied to tell what he had said to them, " hi; hud told them," he said, " Vour conduct has been very bad, and inihke that of all otiier KMi(|niinau.\. Soiiu; of you even stolt; from nie, your coinilrvnian ; but tiiat 1 do not niiiid ; I only regret that vou HJiould have trealed in tills violent inauiier the white j)eo]»lt', who came solely to do you kindness. JMy tribe \ver(! in the same iniliii|)|iy stale in wliich you now are before tlio white people came to (.'hiir'-liill, but at present they are sup- plied with every tliiiiir they need, ami you see that I am well dollied ; I tret all that 1 want, and am very comfortahli'. Yon can not exixu'l, after tie trausacti(»ns of this day, tli;il these peoph> will ever bring poods to your countiy again, unless you show your contrition bv restoring the stolen floods. The white j)eople love the Jlscpiiinaux, and wish to show them the same kindness that they bestow upon the Indians. Do uot deceive yourselves, and supposi> they arc afrtiid of you ; 1 tell you they are uot ; and that it is entirely :.'.i( lives were I'nil lit" tliu itlicrs torn i people to re till tlie , the whole isj'lves he- ll rrmikliii tlie l)oat> naiix were ;, lire-iiriiis liiist so mi- coMvietioii, ■h they hiiil h his piirty tiiiitly hiiNt! es. iiiiji; to a se- ivi's walkcil vith Au^us- •o, " 1 was It iho hrave Aould sutler r their con- 'tiirii, heinu \o hud lolil ie that of all nu me, your •ixrel that you liile jieople, •ilie were in •e heiore the ht^y are siiji- lat'l am well coml'ortahli', lis (lay, lliiit ounliy af-'aiu. If the stolen and wish lo i)W ujjou tln' lose they art- it is ciilii'fly rilANKLtV & RICIIARDflOx'd SECOND JOURXFA'. 20.'] (iwlii^ to ilieir humanity' that iiiaiiv of you ^vere not killed to-day ; tor they lia\e all l'Uiis. with which thoy can destroy \ou either when near or at a distance. 1 also have a l'uii, and can assurt! you that, it' a white nian had liilleii, [ would have heeii the first to have revenuod his death." — I'. Kill. 1()1>. Thi^ Ifiiiifuuiie, of course, is that ot" Franklin, who, however, j.Mves it as tlie pnrpiu't of .Xnyustns's speech, and adds, " liis veracity is heyoiid all (juestion witli tiio party." " AVe could perc«Mve,".says Kraiiklin, '* hy tlui shouts of appiiiuso with which they tilled th(< |)atises iu hi;; laiii^mi^e, that they assented to his ar<,Munents ; and he told us they liad expressed jLjreat sorrow for liaviti'^ iliveii so much causes of oHejist!." He said, moreover, that they plench'd ii;noratiee, liavinii inner Ixd'oro seen white men ; that they liad seen so uiany fine thinjL;s entirely new to them, that tlu'y could not rt'sist tho temptation of stoidin^ ; they jjromised never to (ht tho like ai;aiii, and j;av(^ a |)roof of their sincerity hy restorin;^ the articles that had Inu'ii stolen ; and thus, iu an amicu- lile maiUHT, was the utlVay concluded. These people, iu poss(>ssiou of tiui country hord(5rin<; on tlu^ coast hetwetMi tln^ Mackenzie Hiver JUid tho Ixocky iMomituins, tippear to liave assunu'd n more war- like (diaracter. from tVe(|U(Uit collisions with their neij^li- hors the Dojf-rih Indians, tliau their countrymen fjeuer- ally possess. It was also ohserved, tliat the farther tho party advanced to the wt'stward, the more tlu'y found the Ks(piimaux features takinti; the reseiid)lauce of those of the Tartar race, distiuiinished hy hi^h cheek-hones, and small, ohiiquely elongated eyes, not unlike thos(i of the Cliinese. " Kvery man had jiicces of hono or shells thnist through the septum of his nose ; and holes w(>re ])iei'ced on each side nl' the mider lip, in which were placed circular ])ieces of ivory, with a larjre hlue head in tho center, .similar to those ii'|)re.s(Mited iu the drawiii^fs of the natives on the N.\V. (oast of America, in Ktttzehue's Voyage. The.se ornaments were .so much valued, that tiiey declined sel' \g them; Jiud wlu'u not rich enouirh to procure heads or iv<,.y, sUnjes and [lieces of hone were sid)slitaled. These ])erforatious are made at the age of puherty ; and one of the party, who a]i[ieared to he a])ont fourteen years old, was pointed out with deliuht hy liis parents as having to iuideri:o the oper- H 15 '.> 'l > k o !M AKrrir \ WiMllil 1)1' llllli ll nil. |irn\<'ll lt\ till' lll-'I'llilMI >l\ till' IllllirS OV n|ii||("<. wIihIi ||;|' ,. llic rllri t III ili>|iii'.H.siti:; the iiiiiii'i' li|i, iliiii U<'i'|Mii;; llic iiiniiili .-|..'ii." -r. !l;t. 'riii< ilrt'Ns MJ* till' AVumcii (lillcrnl 1111111 tliiif nl' ||ii> iMcii (iiilv III tlinir wciinin; wnlo trow.scrs. iiihI l)ii:'i< IioimIs- »(\«>r tlii'ir Ik'ihIs ; sttmc of llic yitiiiim'r Iciiiiijcs liiiil |tl»Mism!j; (•itmilit'liiiiil III tlic li>|i ul lli(> lii'iiil, iiMil tii'il liv sliiiiu"^ I'l wliiii' .'till I Mill' l>i',iil-<, nr ('uriJN nl' \\ iiitc (iri'i- mIuii. ll IS ill \ ill I'd III IliHll. si< U- 111 liinil nil I'.'li'll siili' M tllli'U lull, til W llicll lllr ;i|> I'l '111 I I'll stniii's lit' Ik '111 l> 1 1 1, It ii'iiili til till' w ;ii'-t. 'I'lii' \\ uiin 11 w err rinin Iniir ;nul ,1 li.iIT tu Iniir ;iiiil tin re (iiiiirti'is Ici'l lii:li, iiliil ,';riii'i;illv till. Sniiii' ul tlic MiiiM;;i'r Iriiiiili'-', iiiiil tlii« • liililn'ii, wiTc |ir('tlv. Till' linlv wlnwi' |iiirlr!iit fiilnriis iIih wnrU WM-* liii;:litilv pli'.'isi'il iit lii'iii;; sclcrtril lis I .iriilrii.inl l^irlv liir \w* ski'lfli, iiiul li'stilii'ii lii'f jnv li\ smiles ;iiiil iii:ni\ juiii|i>. 'I'hi' nn'il. w liril silliii:; fur tlirir |iiiitriiit,-«, wrii' iiim m sciliitc, lluuiuli mil less |ilr;isi'i|, tliiiii tlii> ti'iiijili's ; sunn' ni tliriii it'iiiMi Ui'il that llii'N wiTi' imt liMiulsnmi' ciiiiiii'li In li.« laUi'M til iiiir I'liimtrx ." — I'. I 111. ll;i\iiiU liiktMi nil iiiiii('nlil(> Ii'mvi' ul' these people, mi the l.'lh ol .liih they put to sen, iiiiil soon liiseiuereil n jiiojet'llnti point of Iniid. to whieh wns joiiieil a eoiiipacl hoiU o|" lee. A ileiise I'oii set in. willi n stion^ i;nle ami henw fiiin. With coiisiihTnlile dniiiier to tlie hnat-, ntliM" I'ue hotirs* pnHiiii; lietwetMi masses of ice, tlie\ stiiM'eeileil in ut'l'mu loiiiul ('apt* Saltlne. nml Iniuleij a little 111 llie west of it. I lere iht'v ohserveil much woimI coal on the haiiU. On the l.'ilh thev proceeileil. hnviiii; MotiC(>il the ice loi seneil tVom th(> lamj. nml ndvanceii to a fivei' which thev nnmed l>alil)a;zc. the width near its month hi'iiiii about two miles. Mere it was olisei\eil that the KocUy Mountnlus run in detached riin«:es, at imeipial distances tVoiii tlu^ coast. 'I'hiMr latitude was {!;! " r.» . loiiiiitndt* l;>S ' 10', '. ()n the ITth, lindiin; a chamuM of water h(^tween an island they named llerschel and tin* main. th»\v entcfcd it. and tliis strait is reportt>d to he " tin* only place that we liad seen sinc(< (piittiiiii tlie MacKen/.ie Ixiver in whi«'h a sltip could timl slieltef." Its latitnd«> was (i'.i ' ;>:>',•. lonuitiide l-"';^' ;' \V. 'I'h*' ice and the shallow- .1 1 inK III" liii\ , »' iiiinli nil. \v liK li li:n ■• ;; IIh' iiiniiil, lliiit ul' l)i.< mill liMi'i' ^<>r rt'iiiiili'4 I'd ii|i riiiiii ;,'rt nl' \\ lull- i.s i\\\ iilril III liirli ;iir :i|i rill' \\ iijiii II T'i trrt llij'li, \i'>, illld tlic I Miliini'^ llii-4 ,' l.ii'iili'iiiiMl rs .'iilil iii:in\ I, were iiim h 's ; sniiH' III iiini:',li III li.> piMtplc. nil isi'iu (M't'il :i I a roMipat'! 11^ ^lilc Mini lllC l)(lllls. • I" icr. tlir\ III hiiiilcil :i micli Wdiiil- iI(mI. Il!l\ill^ MilviiiictMl Id llh iifiir iN IS oIlSflM'll I fiiiiiirs, at atitU(l«> was l)<'t\V(HMl !UI icy t'littTt'il s- pliici' tliaf ic Jxivt-r ill (U« WHS (i:! lie sliiillow- ni.WKI.IN A. KirilAllDHON M HI'.COM* JOI It \ F. V . !J!),"| li("-s III' ||m> wnirr liryuinl it si-iiwiuij suincw Iml clicrKnl llh'ii' |t|•lt^|■^'ss, iiijil iiii\r liiiii' liir i''raiiKiiii Id \i-.iI AlDiinf, ( 'DiiyltDiiiD, DiiD dI iIid iDcky iiiliyrs lii> liiiij si» ihiimi'iI, IrDiii nlinicD lir lijiij an cxlriisuf \n'\v d|' iIid siiccdssidii d| laii^rs, Id all wliicli lie assigns iiaiiu's, tliat |»iDliaMv air iidI ilDDiiit'tl to Mu liryiiinl llif pa'^i' thai CDiilaiiH lliDiii, and iTi'tainly mil In |iDstfiily. < >ii tlii- '.';;d u naiiDW D|)('nm" ni tin- ice alinwrd tlii'iii Id lUDcrrd as lar as a sniall sliraiii, wliirli tlwy niiiiiril Sn' I'liltcncy .Mali'Dliii, and which had i^iscii thcni an advance d| ten miles. Itiiwldcrs dI" mccnslDiic, sandslDiic, and liiiic- sIdiic wcic rDiind near the niDiilh dI' this river, deeply sealed in I he ^lavcl iil the licfich. < Ml the '.Mh DJ .Inly I hey can le Id the ninntli dI' a widn river, which, pniceedini; liDni tl Iiiilish runye nl" ni(»inilains," "and lieini:," says {''ranUlin, "the niDsf, wes|erl\ iver in the Urilish dinniniDiis ini ihis cdiisI, and near the line dI deiiiarcatiDii lielwcen (Ileal j>nlaiii and Kiissiii, I naiiied it iIk^ ( 'Ifltence, in Iidiidi- dI' his rnval highness the Inrd liii;h-adiniral." ["i'diii hence I'd^^'s and liin^-cDiiliniicd iiales, rain, and heavy pieces dI' dril'l-ico cDiilinneil Id interrnpl their |»rDi;iess till the llh dI" ,\n- Uiisl, when they jell in with a parly dI" trading; and peaceahle Msipiinianx, tVoni whom they learned that tln> cnast herDie them was similar to that (iIdiih which they had heen travelini^. They were nnw in lal. 71) ' .'>', Iiaii;. 1 I.'! ' .').")'. h'nr sdiiic lime past ihey had [inlled the liiials outside, or to seaward dI' the cDiilinned reef DJ' rocks and gravid, iihoiil two miles, and a little laither on I'onnd the water \A'vy shallow and perreclly I'resh. 'I'd anolher lar^e river they i^ave the name ol" ( 'amiiinjj, opposite to Avhich, al three miles iVom the shore, tin* water was slill IVesli. This river was of course ruiiniiig thronuh the Kiissiai) dominions. The farther they advanced westerly the more denso the loiis hecMine ; not a day elapsed in which they did not occur; the tempei'iiliire descended to :','y\ and tlu> ji^alcs of wind hecanie more cmistant ; at nii,dit tln^ watcir lro/,(> : and the middle^ of Aii • 'f Tbo Minn liad sunVrcd iniirli finni tlio liiird labor 'if |iiill- iiil.' hikI ilraiiiiiiiii: llif heavy lioals. and tVom <(»ld as well as ratiiiiic. It will readily l>«' ludievcd, IV<»mi tiie clnwac- fcr (if tlif iiiaii. that it was with no ordinaiy (U'tirec of pain tliat Franklin coidd brin^i liiniself even to think of reliii(|nisliin<; the yreat oliject <»f his aniliition, or of di>. appoinlini; the (latterin;^ confidence that had heeii repos- ed on his exertions. " lint," he says, " I had liiyher dnties to pertorni than the {jratificatiiai of iny own feej- inus : and the inature j-onsideration ol" all the aliove nait- ters force(| me to the conclusion that we had reachcfl that point beyond whicdi perseverance Avould he rash- ness, and onr best efforts innst be fruitless." He there- fore, with lull a|)prol)ati()n of his coinpanions, set out, (Hi the iHth. of Au^Mist, oil Ills return to the Mackenzie, from the extreiiu* point liaiiied, named by him the Retiirn Keef. in lat. 70 ' -Ji' N., Ion-.'. 1 lit' :\7'' \V. About tliis time, as it at erwai'd appeared, the Hlos- soin's boat, sent by IJeechey from Helirinu's .^trait, ar- rived on the coast, on wliich Franklin obsei-ves : " Could I have known, or bv possibility iiii;i;.'ined, that a party frnin tlie lilnssoiii bad been at the distance of only 1(11) miles from nie, nodillicidtics, diui^xers, ordiscouraj^iiip circnju- ptaaces should have prevailed «»n ine to return ; but taking into accttuat tlii> uncertainty of all voyaj,'es in a sea obstnut- ed by ice, I liad no rt<,dit to expect that the Blossom had ad- vanced beyond Kot/.ebue Inlet, ca* that any j)aity from her had doubled the ley Cape." — 1'. 1 ().'>. Captain Franklin states the distance traced westerly from the mouth of tin; Mackenzie lliver io have been .'5T 1 miles, aloujL; one of the most dreary, miserable, and uninterestiufi portions of sea-coast that can perhaps be f(juial in any part of tlu' world ; and in all that space, not a hai'bor exists in which a ship could find shelter. The return voyai^e was equally luirassinfj; to the one just completed. Near Ilerschel Island, however, they had a narrow escape from the elfects of a violent storm on the ocean : " As the afternoon wore away, gloomy clouds gathered in the northwest ; and at six a violent scpiall came from that quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale increased with rapidity : in less than ten minutes the sea was white with foam, and such waves were raised as I had never beibro FRA\KI-IN' & UK.'HARDSON'rf snrONn JOIJRNIIV. Q07 )or of piiIN iild as well ic cliiinic- (IciiriM' <»|' () tliinU of , or of (lis- ('»'ii n'|)os- iikI liiyluT own iVcl- ihoVC IIKlt- (1 n-Uflic'l 1 l)f msli- llr tlicre- si4 out, on *la('k('n/.i<', ho Koturn lli«' nios- S trait, ar- 's : iiifil, timt ;i of o!ily HiO ;itig circiiiri- Imt takiii;^ i>ii ohstnicT- oiii had ad- )in her had d Avcstcrly liave \tvvn rahh;, and x'rhaps ho liat spaco, shelter, to tbo Olio over, they )luut storm gathered in from tliat e increased was Avhite ever before 111 Til ('\|tii>ril til ill .1 lidiit. Tlie spriiy atid >i';i hiulvc tiNcr ii.^ iuccssinitly, and it wjih witli dilliciihy tlial \\r t-tmld keep \\-ri' liv h;iirni;r. Our hitir Vf-srls wrnt thrmiirh thr w.ili-r wilii ^reat velocity, iiiidfr ii close-r'-rfcd Miil, Imisti-d iihuiit tlwee teet up tht> niaiiiniiisl, and |irovi'd thiiiisclvrs to lie \cry himyant. 'llicir sniidl >i/e, hnwe\cr, :nid the natino III' their constna'tioii, iiecr>siirily iidiiptrd fur the iiavi^'aticiii of siiiilldv.' rivers, niililtfd them fer w itii>tjiii(nii^' the .-en then rimniuL', ami we were in imminent dim^'er of liinnderiin,'. I thereflire resolved on maUinu f<^v the shnre, as the only meiins of siiviim the p;ivty. !ihli(»iiL.'li I \v,is jiwiire that in so dnimr I incurred the h.i/iird of stavin;.' the lioats. there liein^ tew places on this part »tf the coast where there was sutlicient lieach under the liroki n ciills. The wind liiuwini,' aloiiir llie land, we could not venture on expo-iu;: th(> lioal's side t(» tlit; sea hy liaidiu;,' directly in, hut, ed^duir away with the wind in that i|u,'irter, we must providentially tndk the ^'idimd ill a faviiraiile >[i(it. The Imats were instantly lilled with tlie siirl. hut they were iinlnadetl and dra^fjed up withmit liaviu;,' sustained aiiv material diini;e_'e. Impressed with a sense of gratitude for the si;,'iial deliverance we had experi- enced III! this and other fKTasions. we assembled in the even- iiii.' to oH"er up praise and thanks^ivin-; to the Alinij,dity," — r. 17-J. 17:}. ( )ii tbo '21st of Septeiiiher tb(> party reached I'ort F^rniiklin, where they liad tbo bappinoss ot" iiu'etiiiii all their friends in safety : tin? eastern detaclniioiit btid ar- rived on tbi^ 1st of Sej)t(Mnher, after ji most siiccessftd voyage. Franklin says that the distiince trtivehMl, in tbo throe niontiis of their ahsenco from i''ort Ki'tinkliii, amounted to two thousand and forty-»>igbt statute mik's, of wbicli six liundred and ten were through parts not j)reviously discovered. " I can not (dose this acctamt of onr sea voyaire without ex- pressiiiif the deep ohlii:ation I feel to Lieutenant liack for liiK cordial co-operation, and tor his zealous and unwearied assi- duity during its la-oi^ress. * ^ * * ;\Iy warmest thanks are likewise due to the men of my party, who met eveiy obstacle with lUi ardent desire to surmount it, and cheeriiu- ly exerted thenis(dves to the utmost of their power. Tlitdr cool, steady conduct is the more connneiidahle as the sea nav- iijatirm \vas entirely novel to the whol(> exce]>t to the seamen Duncan aial Spinks. and Hallom. cor|)or!il of mariiK^s. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivii'i-, first saw the ocean on this occasion." ■•■i^ - ■■■ k i 1 ' " I ■ 4.1 h i'lil 1 •I98 ARCTIC VOYAGES. Vr. Rlchardsoii's Voyage to the Edsfivard. Tin* iiarnitive of I)i'. Ivicliardson is briffly and lucidly toM. Accordiiii:; to his iiistructiniis, lie lind to tntr«^ tli(< rojist brtwccii tlio Mackctizic jiiid Coppor Mine Ivivcrs, mid to rctiini tVom tiic liittcr ovci-liind to Fort h'l-jmkl'ii. ITis party consisted ot'liinisnil", \ho intcrpiX'tr-rOoliyljnck, and i'onr men, in tlio Dolpliin ; and Mr. KokIjiJL in tli(^ I'nion. On leaving Point; Separation, in one ot" the ))ran('iies of tlie .Maei^en/ie, on the 4tii of .lulv, he made fr)r Middle ( 'hainnd, out of whieh he entered a brunch Jlowiiiij; to the (^astwai'd. tlie land i>(;iinf low and niais'iv, and tlie sunnnits of the banks loaded with di'ifr-tinil cr. 'IMiese ilats were? enlivened hy the busy tliiiht and cheerful twitteriuii; of the sandniaitins, which had S('Of)ped out thousands of nests in the banks ; '' we wit- nessed with pleasure their activity in thinnin<; the ranks <»f our most tormentinij; foes, tlie nmsquetoes." At for- ty-two miles tlie paity canu; to the comnujiicement of Hoindeer Hills on the main-iiind, clothed with trees; to their tops. On tJH^ 5th. liavinjT made above forty miles, th(*y en- (•ami)ed ; and here a s[)ruce-tree was seen of the unu- sual circumferences of seven feet at four feet tVom the jj;round. On the following day, in bit. ri9°. the Eastern Channel made a turn round this point of the Jxeindeer Hills, whi(di here terminatcMl; and liere also Wiis a small island, })oss(!ssinif, according to Mackenzie, a " saci'cd character," being still a l)urial-j)lace of the Kscjuinuiux : it was called by Kichardson the! " Sacr»>d Island." Here also the channel terminated, by several islands dividnig it into as many branches. On some of the. .i, and on va- rious i)arts of the coast, tlie bituminous shale was no- ticed to be on tire ; and in some parts of the clilfs ap- j)eare(l as if they had fallen down, owing to the con- sumption of the combustible strata, and terminating in a green and sloj)ing bank. The attraction of oxygen by tlie sulphur causes th«^ combustion, whi(di, as the doc- tor observes, is made more lively by the presence of bit- umen. They now steered along tlie main shore, and speedily h'. i Richardson's voya(;c to tfie eastward. 299 '.rd. kI lucidly triic(^ tlio le Rivers, Fi'iinklin. )()li^l)iick. mi ill tlin le ot" tli(^ , ho lllfKh; fi hi'iuicli 1 nijus'iv, it'r-tinil LT. Iliiilit and liicli hiid '' we wit- tho rutiks ' At for- ;(MiUMit ol" li trees to , tlioy eii- ■ the umi- : from tlie 10 Eastern J\eindoor ,'as a small a " sacred <(|uimaiix : 1." Hero ds dividmii; and on va- 1»^ was no- ) dill's ap- [) the con- iiating in a oxygon by IS the doe- nico of bit- id speedily foil ill witli n tribe of Ksfpiimaiix, who used throat oiiiii!^ iaii'Mia'^o and yosliiros. wIkmi ()()liirl)n('ii said tliov woro bad people, '' ontvoatoil me to embark, took mo on his back, and carried me on boai'd." As the conduct of lliese people was v(>ry similar to that which Franklin mot with, and not dilforiiiii nuUorially from those* iiiliab- itiiii!; the eastern coast of Mellville Peninsula, it will not be Tn'cossary to notice the numerous parties ot these ])e(;ple mot with on this voyagi^. It may be oi)sorved, that on this occasion, by judif;ious manafiemcMit on the ))art of liichardson, th(5 necessity of firino; upon them was avoided. Those poor creatures had no doubt the sani' excuse as those wlio attacked I ranklin ; they had never soon white men, and never prolMibly heard of thcj only one that their i:roat-2;ran(lfathers mii,dit liavo scmmi. 1 lavin>j; ji^ot rid of tl ^ Ksquimanx, suddenly a violent gale arose, that, by sottin!)" 'J!>', which they left the folloNving day ; but. from the badness of the weather, and the ice oxtiMiding on the sea to the northward, they made little jirogress. At their halting-place on the 13th, the doctor says : " .Mvviads ot" Hins(|n(^tocs. wbicli n^posed amoii!! the irrnss, rose ill clonds when (listurl)e(l. and ^^^ve i; ■» much aiiiioyaiiio. M;inv Kiiow-binls were liatcliiiig on the point, and we saw swans, Ciuiada iii'esi'. eider, kiiii:, arctic, and siiif docks; sev- • Tiil irlaucous, silvei-y, bliick-hradcd, and ivory fjiills, together with terns and nortlieni divers. vSoiiif lauidiiiiir-ireese p;issed to liie northward in the eveninir, which may !)e considered as a snre indication oi' land in that direction." — 1'. "J 17. On the 1 1th they took shelter fnnn the fog and a lieavy gal«> in a cove called ]>row(d Cove, in latitude 70 \ longitude 130^ 1!)'. It was supposed, the water being brackish, that it proceeded from an immense lake not far from the beach, known by the name of the Ks(|ninmux Lake. Of this largi^ sheet of water Dr. Richardson gives tlu! following account : " Taking for granted that the accounts we receivt ;! from the natives were (as oar own observations led us to believe) correct, Ks(|iiiinaux Lake is a ^vry extensive and cnrionrt pit'ct^ ot" watiM-. The Indians s.iy that it reaches 1o within fonr (lavs' march ot" Fort (iood Hope; und the F.sqniniJMix iutlirrn'Ml ns ihat it rxti-iids troni Tcint l"ncount<'r to (';iii<' Ba- '\ Si 4 300 ARCTIC VOYAGES. i! I. -i 1 ■ ' Mj- I I ; thiirst, lliiifl nsrribiiip to it an extent ffom north to Hoiitli of more thiiii one linndred uikI forty milerf. juid tr(»in east to \ve>t (»t" one liiniilred iuid lit'ty. * ** ** If a eonjeeture iiuiy Im- Imz- nrdcd aljout the orij-'iiiiil foniiatioji of a lake wliieli we Jiail Ko few f>[)])ortiMiifies of examining, it st^enis pro])al)le that tlio alhivial matters hroiiirht (h)\\ii hy the Mackenzie and other rivers have <,'ra(hially formed a l)arrier of islands and shoals, which, hy ])r.'veiitinf: the fn^' access of tin; tide, enables llio fresh water to niaintHin the ])redomiiiance liehiiid it. Tlio action of the waves of the wea lias a tenthMicy to increase tlio hei^djt of the harrier, while the cnneuts of the rivers and ehh tide ]>res(?rve the depth of the lake. A great formation of wood-coal will, 1' douht not, Ik; ultimately formed l)y tiio innnense (juanlities of ilrift-tlmher annually deposited on tho borders of llsipiimau-K bake." — 1'. 22''). On the loth tliey inado a traverse often miles across an itdi^t, tlie water of wliicli, runniny out in a stroni:; curnMit, and ncnirly fresh, was supposed to he anotlier coinniunicatlon of tlie Ks(juinianx Lake with the sea. They nannd it llussell lidf^t. The latittuh; was 70"' rj, and the h)n^itude I'i!)- -21' ; and hoi-e tlu' main-land trended, as they wished, to tlu> soutlieasl ; foi", liavini; passed the low coasts and shoals wliich extend as far as the lake contiinies, it was expiK-ted that the ohstrnction to their proi^ress would ceas*?, as in the whole of this distance tln\y had to cross channels of shallow water, encunihered with hanks of shingle, and the water nioro fresh than salt. On Mie IWth, sailint iiiay bt; liiiz- licli \vc hiid .l»le that tlio e iiiul otlii'i' i nnd slinals. cnalilos tlio lul it. 'Ilio incroaso tlio -i rivern and at f'oniiatioii •iiu'd l)y tho )sitL'd on tho nilcs across iii a sti'oiii^ be anotb«M' rh tho sea. 1(5 was 7(P (> iiiaiii-laiid for, havitiff nd as far as obstruction lolo of this How water, .vator iiioro Is and tlio out to tho litoniuii ('\- t on Kich- aceful in a sscssod on ions trcat- is, bad much YJ. woman of in Kuro])!'. liii|)|)y, and [>at.s as to in- L't. A l)nii- Iniak. it was Lsure to luT breast with the stronL'fst pxprcssidii of rapture, while another I'ldcrly (hiuif, wlio had strctchnl out licr arms in vain, b ■- tame the v«'ry picture of despair. On my explaining', how- ever, that the pn-scnt was fur the whole, an amicaldc division instantly took place; and to show their i^ratitude, tln-y sang a soni^ to a ])leasiiii,' air, krrpiiii; time with their oars. I'li^y gave us many pressiiiir invitations to |«a.-is the ni^'ht at tln-ir tents, in which they wi*re joined l)y the men; and to excite our liberality, the mothers drew the childrt-n out of their wi(b' boots, wliere they an; accustomed to carry them naked, and holdiuLT them \\y, bejrged beads for them. Their entreat- ies were, tor a time, successful ; but, being desirous of getting clear of our visitors before breakfast-time, we at length told them that our stock was exhausted, and they took leave." — At on(^ of their halting-placo.s, tho interesting little anecdote of tho .snow-hunting's lu'st, mentioned by Cap- tain Lyon, could not fail to be brought to their recollec- tion by the following iiu-i(h'nt : " In taking wood to make a fire from a large {)ilo of drift- tind)er which had been collected by the Ks(|uimaux, the nest of a snow-bird, containing four young, was discovered. Tlie parent-bird was at first scared away, but affection tor its otf- spriiig at length gave it courage to approach them with food; and, as it was not molested, it soon became (piile fearless, and fed tin ni with the larva; of in.-^ects, while the party were seated at breaktiist close by the nest." — W 'j:}.">. Through a small opening in tho land, which with the main formed llarrowby J>ay, tiie boat.s passed with great difficulty, being nearly barred up; tmd liu; mo- ment they had crossed the bar, th<^ Wiiter wa.s greenish and perfectly salt. The <'astern point of the passage lies in latitudt^ 70- ■'}()', longitude 107^ 3o' ; and Point J')athurst proved to be tho most northerly part of the main they approached during the voyage. From ihis ])oint the coast trended southeast into Franklin's IJay, in latitude Gi)^^ '.20' ; rose on the east to Cape Ptu'ry, in latitude 70^ o' ; descended again to Daridey iJay, hi latitude 09^ 35', the eastern cape of which is in latitude (i!)^ 4')', front whence the main shore gi-adually trjMids to the south\^ard of east, sU (ft to, and hold, with hert* and there a small bay .md projecting point, till it reaches Cape Krusenstern, previous to which the party passed tliruugh a bruud chuimol, named tlie Uuion and Dolnhiu Cc ?>>'? mrmmemm HIiPIII 1^ :■:,{ !|^, 1 ' 1 k 'fill! ii ao2 ARCTIU VOYAfiLH. Strnit, iiiid fonnod hctwpfn n loiiq; tract of elevated larul to the iiortlnvfiid and tln^ iriaiii shore, to which was fliveii the name of Wollaston fjand. In this strait fln-y wer(! impeded, and the Dolpliin was nearly crushed, by two masses of ice. As soon as she was rendtn'ed sea-worthy lliey j)ro- ce»Ml«>d, hut the flood tid(! sot with such velocity round a rocky point, and brouj^ht with it so iruich ic(?, that it was th()U<:lit ))rudent to ))ut asliore. The violent (tidies in the currents tiiere, tluj doctor says, "reminded us forcibly of the poet's description of Scylla and Char>b- dis." The naviyation of the Dolj)hin and Union Strait, he says, would be dauiierous to ships, from the many sunken rocks wliicli we observed near the southern shore. A little beyond the strait is a rocky promontory, to which Dr. Richardson uave the name of Cape Krilsen- stern, in honor of the distinyuisluHl Russian hydro^rra- l)her; its latitude was 68° 23' N., lon^ntudo 113=^ 4.y W., and it is tlu; most eastern i)art of the 'and which th(\y coasted. J^'rom this point the coast trends to tho southwest, and ap))ears as if foi'mine; the western side of what is called in the charts (leorge the Fourth's Coronation (iidf, a mistake occasioned by brin; as an tho mouth announced g thojii to elligenco," ^vas totally iced found the Divine not bo ox- l^he vegota- • for tlieir IS up what iversed by ed miles : "We noticed on the <-onst about one buncb-ed ntid seventy fhiiiiosrainoiis, orllowei-iiiir ]>l!iMfs. bcinir one fifth oCtbe niinii- ber of !S])ecies wliicii t^vist iifteen de'.'rees of lutitude faitber to the soiitiiward. The ^^-asses, hents, and rusbe.s ccmstitiito only one fiftb of the number of s[)('cies on tbe coast, hnf tbo twf) Ibnner trilx-s actually cover more f^yround than all tbe rest of the ve<,'etation. the cruciti.'rous or cross-lik(« tribe atford on<» seventh of the species, and tbe conii)ouiid flowers are nearly as numerous. Tb<> shnihln/ p/aufs that reach the sea-coast an^ tho connnon juniper, two .species of willow, the dwarf birch, the conmion alder, tbe hij)])ophir', a froosebeirv, the red bearberry (Arh/tfi/.s nva iirsi), tbe J.abrador tea-i)lan't[ ih'j Lapland rose, the hog whortleberry, and the crowheny. The kidney-leaved oxyria j,'rows in f,'r(>at luxuriance there, and occasiouahy hn-nished us with an agreeable addition to our meals, as it resembles tho garden-sorrel in ilavor, hut is more juicy and tender. It is eaten by the natives, and must, as well as niany of the cress-like plants, i)rove an excellent corrective of the gross, oily, rancid, and frecpiently putnd nieat on which they suhsist. The small bulbs of the Alpine bistort, and die long, succulent, and sweet roots of many of tho Astragalea', which grow on the sandy shores, are eatable, hut we did not learn tliat the Jlstpiimaux were acipiainted with their use. A few chnnps of white sprucMir, \vith some straggling black spruces and canoe-birche.^, grow at the dis- tance of twenty or thirty miles from the sea, in sheltered sit- uations on the hanks of rivers." — P. '2(M, 265. In concluding his siccount of tho sea voyage, Dr. Rich- ardson adds the h)llowing ])uragrapli, which is highly creditable to iMr. Kendall, the iissistant surveyor : " The completion of our s(^a voyage so early in the season vyas a subject of nuitual congratulation to us aU ; and to Ah*. Kendall and myself it was highly gratifying to behold our men still fresh and vigorous, and ready to connnence the la- borious march across the barren groun(is, with the same spirit that they had shown in ovtnroming the obstacles which pre- sented tliemselves to tlieii- progress by sea. We all felt that the comfort and ease with whic-h the voyage had been jjcr- forined were greatly owing to the judicious and j)lentihil |)ro- yisi(m of stores and food which Captain Franklin had made for us ; and gratitutle for lis care mingling with thi' pleasin-o (wcited hy our success, and directing oin- thoughts more strongly to his party, the most ardent wishi^s were expressed that they might prove e(pially fortiniate. The cdrrei'tiiess of Mr. Kendall's nx-koning was another soiu-ce of pl(>asure. Having been deprived "of the aid of chronometers bv tho 1 i ■ \ 1 \ • 1 li . ^ It I > I 1' yoi ARCTIC voya(;k.s. brciikiiiLT of till' two iiitctiilid I'nr llic cJisttTM (Ii'tacliiiit'iil of llic fspi'diiinii (liiriii:^ tlir iiitt'iisc v\ iiilri' coltl, niir milv rr- Hniircc till- ((irrrctiii;^ tlif di'ail ci-cktiiiiii^' Wiis liiiiiir rilist'i\,i. tiiiiis, iii.kIi- ;is rirt|iiriitly as M|i|i(niimitit'w (illrii-d ; yet wlicn \\(' ii|i|irii;ulicd tin- ('n|i|)iT Miiif Iti'cr, Mr. Kriididl's n-ik- oiiiiii,' diHrifd Iroiii lln- |Misili(iii of lliat |tla((', iim asccrtaiiii'd nil ('aplaiii I'lardtliii's rnriiicr rx|MMlili(iii. only twrntv seconds ot time, 11° ahont two miles and a liall ot distanc*', wliieli is a \eiv tiitliiii; diireiciiee when the leiit,'tli of the voyaije and the oilier ( irciinistanees are taken into eonsideiatioii. 'i'he dis- laiice lielween I'oiiit Separation and the month of the Coppei* Mine h'i\er, l»y the I'oiite we pin'sned, is nine hniith'ed and two statute nnles." — I'. 'Jdl. 'J(l-J. Iliivinu; tims cniiipJi'ltMl llicir V(>yiii;»> l>y iirriviiiij at the moiilli ottlie Coppci" .M iiu' Kivci', imd iiiiain noticed till' ciipt's Mild islands seen iVoni tlienct' joiiilly hy Kicli- iiidson and I'^ranklin on a tornier occasion, and now hav- in^ cerlilied to he land what was then only conici'Iiire, lliey pidit'edi'd up the river as lar as IJu^ IJIoixly Falls, jihe.\e which, for about iorty miles, the rivor was lunnd lo he so lull ol rapids, and to flow owv such an iincNeii and rocky hcd, and its current so precipitous, as to \n> wholly inipracticahle to ascend it in hoats of ii iireiiter (Irauuht tlian a lew inches. They therrtore lel'l the I nioii and the Dolphin hoats at the iJloody l''all, stow- iiij; in them a miniher oi" small articles for the use of the Ks(piimaux who tVetpient this spot ; and havin<,f distrib- uted amoijo the |)aiMy a certain (piantity ttl" p»Miiiiiican, jxMtable soup, and other articles ol" provision, the wiiole jimountiiiir to about si'xcntv iiomids to each man. tlu'V set out on loot lor Hivise's Miver, on (»r«'at l^ear Lake. A boat had been appointed to convey them across the lake to I'\ti1 h raidxiin. Hy this plan a journey would lu> savtMl of three hundred miles, and et" thre«» wei'ks, Avhicli a walk round the liiki^ woulil have re(|uired ; be- side>, it spared them, in addition to much tatii:ue and Hutlerinii. the wear and tear ol" tiiiMr small stock ot" shoes, almost already «>xhansted, and of their clothim:, Avhich was but ill adajJted Tor thi» frosty niyhts of Sep- tembt>r. Som(» little (h'lay occuritMl in tht^ arrival of the bont on DeaisiA's Ixi'ci but they reached Fort Franklin on lije l^ej)teniber, " luid received ii warm welcome KlCllAUDf^O.N'.S V0VAt;K Ti) TllK KAriTWAKi). iiUS I'llllirnl III' ir iiiily ic- II' iilisriMi- ycl uliiii bill's Ir.U- is('ri't;iiii('i| ity sfi-niids wliicli is :i !,'(' iiiul iIm- Tlir .li>- llC ("opplT iiidn'tl iiiid irrivini}; iil ill iHitictMl l)y Kicli- iiow iiiiv- uiijccliirt', (xiy l'';ills, WHS loll IK I an uiic\tMi s, lis to l)(^ II iirciittT (• left thi^ ''all, stow- I1S(> Ol' till' 111:; (listrib- iiimiciiii, lie whole Hill. tllfV ir IjaUc. icross the cy would o Wt'i'Us, iriMJ ; b»'- itiijuo and stock of clothini;, s ot" St>|)- tho boat iiiiklin on J welcoiiH"! Ol Iroiii .Mr. Doast', iiflor iiii iibst'iico of scvonty-oiio ilays, ti'iiiiiii wliicli poriod wo liiid tiii\o|od by liinil mid wiilor olio llioiisiiiid sovoii iimidi'od and iiiiio ijt'oi;rapliical, or iiiiit'trrii liiiiidrod and «M{i;lity sliitiilo miles.'' |)r. Kicli- ardsoii adds : " iiasiii',' now liroimlil tlir iiiiriiilivo of the prococdiiiL:^ of till- oMstiTii dolMcliiiM'iit to 11 roiicbisioii, tlio ploiisiii^ di'tv lo- iiiiiiiis of o.\piTs.HiML' my firiititiido to liic parlv fiic tlicir <-li<'cr- tiil and uix-dii'iit coiidiic). .Not a iiiiii-miir of discoiitoiit wan beard tliroii^di(tiiI tbe \oyat,'e, lint eveiy individual eiii;M^'ed w illi alacrity in tbe lalmiioiis tasks be was called upon to per- Innii. Wbeie all bebaved witli tbe ^'reatesl /.eal, it wonlil bo inxidioiis to ])articnlari/e any; and I am liappv to base it lit inv power to add, tliat since onr return to I'lit'laiid, (iillot (coxswain), Tucker (carpenter), and Tysoe (marine), wlio were in II..M."s service previoiiH to tlieir beiii^' employed on iIm' e.\|)editioii, bave been rewarded bv |)roinotioii. Oiu* i^ood-nalnred and tititlifnl Msipiimaiix Irieiid, Ooli^dinck, car- ried witb bim to bis native land tlie wannest wislies and es- leriii of tbe wliole parly. II is attai'bmeiit to lis was never doubtful, even wbeu we were .'^nrroiinded by a Iribe of bi« own nation. "'fill' L'eneral abilities and itroCessional skill of mv comj)an- ioii, .Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, are dnly ajtpreciated in liif,dier (piarters, and can derive bnt little In.sler troin any en- loL:iimi from me; bnt I can not deiiv invself tbe ^oatilicatioii m! record i 111,' mv deep sense ot tbe L'ood tortiine and liap|)iiies(4 I I'xpeiieiiced in beiiii,' as>ociated witb a ^'entleman of such j'leasiiii: manners, and one upon w bo>e Irieiidly sn|)pt»il and suiind indirmeiit 1 could, witb confidence, rely on occasions of diilicnlty and doubt iu.separable from siicli a voyage." — I'. '2lV.i. n'his kind-hoartod and tuost amiable man, Dr. Kieli- ardson. could not pass ov»m' tin? incident of bostowinji on a bay the name of Franklin without rticordinij; a kind and well-dcservcd complinuMit to that liigiily meritorious oificer. " It would not be i)roj)er, nor is it my intention, to descant on the j)rofe.ssional merits of my superior ollicer; but, after liavin'z served under Captain I'"raiikliu f(M' nearly seven yeai'H, in two successive" voyages of di.scoveiy, 1 trust I may be al- lowed to .sav, that however high bis l)rotber ollicers may rato iiis courage and talents, either in the ordinary line of his jao- fessioiial duty or in the field of discovery, the hold he acquires upon the atVectioiis of those nnch-r his conimaml, by a contin- ued series of the most cjuciliating atteutioas to tlioir feelings, 'l-v, ll » , T yo^i AKfTIC VoVA(iKr». 'I ' iiiitl ii imifdrin mnl iiurrmillinLr rfjnnl t<» llirir l)(»st iiilcrcsN, is iiiit Ifss ciiiisiticiiniis. I I't't'l tli;il lln' srntimi'iits of niv fViriuls .-iiiil niiiiininioiis, (';i|»l!iiti Hack !iii(l l^ii'iilrriiiiit Ki-ti- ihill. ;irc ill imisdii willi iii\- own wlici I ;illinii lli.it irnililiiilf iiiid Mttiiclimnif til ittir l.ilc cuiiimiiiidiiiu' iiHici-r will MiiiiiiiiU' of the best feelings of his benevolent nature. \'et, by some unaccountable accident or oversight, tliis excc^lleiit olticer was not honored witli that distinc- tion w'liicli was conferred on his companions. Sir .)(t!in Franklin iuul Sir (leorge Hack, nut, whatever the cause of the omission nuiy have been, it lias at length been I'ectilied by an a[)|)lication of Lord IJaddington to Sir .lames (iraham. to solicit her majesty to confer on liiin the honor of knight liooil, wiiich has been graciously iirantcMJ. To return to tlw general narrative, of which little now^ remains to be said : The end of September having arrived, it w^as deemed expedient to pass a great part of another winter at Fort Kranklin. Jt jiroved a severe one. By a record in Franklin's ,ournal, the thermom- eter on th(> morning of the 7th of F(^bruary descended to — 5H'' ; it had been — i)7^'r> and — FyT^'',] thrice in the coiu'se of tiiis and the ])receding day ; between the r)th and Hth its general state was from — 48^ to — o"J-, though it occasionally rose to — 13°. No time, liowever, was lost in the commencement of breaking up the party. Dr. Ricb.ardsoti was the lirst to depart: lie left in December, for the purpose of joining ]N[r. Dnunmond, the assistant botanist, in the Saskai chawau River, tliat he miglit have the benefit of an ear .t I IKANULIN & Kl( IIAKUS(jN'ri SKCuM) JoCKN'KV. 'JOl <\ iiilcrcsfs, •iits (»r iMV I'liiml Ki'ii- i1 t,'i';itiliiilc /ill Miiiinati.' .';!(;, v::i7. ss(m1 were ot only liy idiml i'lii- itivcs witii is unirunii 1. Fl'lUlk- ■ clmiiiftcr I ho siit'cty, rty of llic risked Ills lings ol' his ov»'rsii;hf, lilt (listiiic- 4, Sir .loliii iltCVtM' lllt> s iit hMiuth Idiiiiitoii to coiilVr on iiniciouslv hich little I)(M" haviiii: cat part of 1 a scvorc tlicnnom- ll0SC»Mld(Ml irico in the on tho r)th to — -rJ-, icement of tho first to ^^ of joiniiiiT he tSaskat t of an ear li(M" sprini"; than at Kort l''ninklin ti» collect plants. On the Kith of l"\'ltniarv Anu'iisliis and two hoy-ril) In- dians \ver(^ sent ioiward. ( )n the -JOth ('aptain h'rank- lin loft the lort, accompanied liy five of his men and two Indians: and ('(Miiniander Ihick was directocl to proceed to \ ork l''actory, thence hy the lindson's May ship to I'liiiiland, takinj; with him the llritish party, and sendinjj; the ( 'anadians » > .M(tntro;d. "On (|uittini,' Norway I1(mis(\" says I'^rankliii, " w(* took leav(s of onr worthy companion Autinstns. Tho tears which he shod at onr pai'tini,', so ininsind in thoso nnciiltivatoil tribes, showed tlu^ strontjth of his tVudiiiiis, and I have ua (:)iil)t they proceeded iVom a siiKN're af- fection; an alloction which 1 can venture to say was mntnally iolt hy every individual.'' This most excellent youiiii """1 ""'I Ooliiihuck were t(» ho conveycMl tf» Churchill to rejoin their fiimilies, and b'ranklin took can^ that tlu^ ])ay due to them was iiundod over to the direct- ors of the niidson's JJay Company, to bo distributed to tluMii annually in tho way suited to their wants. It may be proper liere to introduce a few words in fa- vor of a nejilocted and unwarrantably (lespis(Ml race of men, tho Ks(piiniaux. A few samples may suffici% and better luted not bo souulit for than those of Aufjustus, .lunius, Ooliiibuck, and Sackhouse; and anionu; tho fe- males, Jlii>liuk. Of th(!se, Ooliybuck Avas tlie only nialo tliat survivcid tho period of the expeditions luM-ein dr«)iight to Ijeith in a whalinif-ship, the owners. ])leased witli his maimers, paid hii»; every attention, had liim tan<:ht a little Kn^lish, and si ,>\ him hack the t'ol- lowiiiii season, to renuiin or not, accordinji to his own de- sire. I lis sister had died in iiis ahsence, and Imvinj; im» iiiher relative livinj:;, he determined to abandon his conn- ti'v and t(» I'etnrn. ( )n arriving at Leith he was met hy Mr. Nasmyth. the artist, who, lindins:; he liad a taste for drawing, kindly ollered him liis instructions. On the reconnniMidation of Captain Hall, liei was enyaiied as iii- terpi'cter on tiu> lirst Arctic voyajje, and proved so use- ful tiiat lie was a|)pointed for the second voyujio. In tlu! mean time Im visited his kind friends in Kdinhur^h. In pursuit of his studies, and in the midst of happiness, he was s 'i/.ed with an inllummiitory com[)laiut, which car- ried liiiii off in a few^ days. 1 hi is descrihcid as possessing]; a ))leasin{i; simj)licity of iiumners, a countenanco expressive of ^'ood humor, to liuve IxMMi fond of society, and always desirous of learn- ing something. His kindness to children was very strik- ina; : two of tliese In^ fell in with on a snowy day at somo distance from Leith, shiverinff with cold. Sackhouse took off his jacket, and carefully wnippinR them in it, brouffht them safely home. Wlien sensible of his ap- l)roachinji end, he thanked his friends around him for all their kindness, hut said it was of no avail, for his sister had api)eared to him and called him away. '^riie writer says ho was unafU'ectedly ])ious, and when death was approaching, he held in his hand an Icelandic Catechism till his streufrth and sight failed him, when the book dropi)ed from his grasp, and he shortly afterward expired. But if any doubt could be entertained as to the supe- * See Backs account of tlic late of tliis excellent man. 2* i f • i;. nl»l(* f'lid of Uiiid-linii'tt'd id iiilfllij:ciil (' tVit'iids li(( () is ail inter- 's .Miiuu/jiif, ['ii])taiii Pfiisil tilt' (tWIH'IS, tttt'iitidii, iiiid hiicU tiic lol- () his own i\r- iiid lmvin, and, amoiijH other thinys. that (»f tlu! compass, as heiny the means ol' ffuidinj; her hand to |)encil out on paper the lines of two extensive (;oasts, on two opposite si(h's of the samo land, united hy a loufj; strait, with islands and other particulars, all of which were t'oimd to l»o sulliciently correct to jiuidt^ I'ariy to tlu^ object of his research. The ea^eriH^ss with whi(;h her scrutini/iiiff eye was directed to tho forijcs and tho operation of weldinii iron, jjave a stronjj; j)roof of her intpiisitive and saj^acimis mind. Jler son was little* interior to horscdf in mental capacity. Indeed, the order, <;o()d conduct, and skill* of the peo- ple, from whom Parry receiv(Ml so much useful infor- mation, and tiuMr superiority over tlie j;;eneral class of huniaii beiin;s, can not b<^ (hniied; nor that the means of instruction alone are wanting to brin of the party that now remains to be noticed. From Cunberland House ho ac-. * Dis])liiyo(l in their consmu'tiuii ol'siiowluiilt housos. >hi aio AUCTK* VOV.-.tiKrt. Il il.i \ I J )! t n I c(im|)!ini(Ml tlm Coiiipiiny's 'oats with u hrifiadc of tind- (M's tor tlui ( 'oluMll)ill, rlt'tci'liiilicil to prorcnl with thrill as I'ar as thr Kocky .Mountains. To ( 'arltoii lloiisr is two hnndrrd and sixty iiiilt's. Lcaviii<; this on th*- 1st ol" ScptomlxT, thry proctMMh'd to Kdmonton, which is uliout t'oiii' liniidrcd miles, and i-tMicht'il it on th(^ 'JiMh of that nioiith. Ono hiiiKh'cd iiiiies I'arther brought tiu'in to Assinahoiii on thn J{«Ml-(hM;r Kiver. From thiMico they pro(;(M'(h'd up this riv«M* to thn mountains; hut tho canoo hciny much hjinhrrt'd, it was lu-crssary tliat soiiio ol" tln^ party sliould travel hy land; "and of that iiiiiii- her," says ^1 r. Drummond, " 1 voluntecrod to be one."' A heavy lall of snow rendered the march very fatiiiuiii", and what with the woods and swam|)s, tlie horsl^s hecaiiio useless before they yot halfway. About tiu^ end of De- cember he took up iiis winter (juarters on tin's JJajitiste, a stream which tlows into the Ked-deer Kiver. On the journey he says he ol)tain«'d a tew mosses, and on Christ- mas day had the pleasure of linding a very minute tiijm- nostomum, hitherto undescribed : " In tlie wiiitor I felt the inconvoiiience of thn want of my tf^nt.tlie only shelter I bad {'vt)\n tbe iiicleiiieiicy of the wcntli- er being a bat built of the bi-aiicbes of trees. Soon after reacbiiifr our wintering ground provisions became very scarce, and the biiiiter and bis tamily went (»tf in (piest of animal, taking with tbein tla; man who bad charge of my horses, t bring iin^ a sapj)ly as soon as they could procure it. J re- mnitii'd (tlottr for the rmf vf Ihc ir'nttcr, i.rrcjif when tin/ tiuiib ocrasioiia/li/ visiird vie iri/h went ; find T found the thne hnitj^ rei-i/ hrarif, as I hod no hitnks, and nothlnfc rntild he done in the waif of colleclbiff speeintens of natural histori/. I took, however, a walk every day in tbe woods, to give me S(ane practice in the use of saow-sboes. Tin; winter was very se- vere, and much snow fell until tbe end of Ahircb, when it averaged six feet in depth ; in conse([Uence of this I lost ono of my horses, and tlu' two remaining ones became exceed- ingly poor. The hunter was still more unfortunate, ten of Iiis young colts having died." — 1'. 310. In the heginnini; of Aj)ril, 18'2G, a fatimiing march brought him to the Columbia portage iu six days, and here lie received letters from Dr. Richardson, accom- panied with iiis tent, a little tea and sugar, and some more paper for his plants. About this time liis hunter sent »• I'll FRWKliiX A: Ull.'n.\UI)H ot" tnnl- Witll thrill in I loiisi' is oit tlic Ist, II, wliicli is I he 'JUth (d" lUflht tlifiii 'Olll tllCIICO IS ; Imf- tlio V that soiiio tliiit iniiii- tO l)«1 OIK'.'' y I'litinuiim, si!S l)('caiim I t'licl ot" Dc- w. JJiiptisit', ■r. On tlio (Ion Clirist- iniito Ciijtu- ■ Willlt ol' JIIV >t' till' WCfltll- Sooii iif'tfi' ■ very sciint'. of uniinixl: y horses, I it. J rr- c)i 1)11/ nil/ lb ■ time }ifiiim|iiiiiy him into the iiioimtaiiis. His pliins wern thus (h'nin^ed, yt^t he had no alternative hni to remain with th<' man, who had charge ol' the horses used on thu ('oliiml)ia portaize, " iiimI to hotani/.e in that m>ighl)or- liood." lie resolved, iiowever, to pro<'eeil. " ()m tlio IDlli ot" Aiiuust I set r)iit with another liiiiiter, upon whom 1 Ijiid pievuiled to coiidiict lue to the Siiiokiiin Hiver, altlioilf.'li. heiii;.' ilisiippoiiited in ii supply iit' aiiiiiiiiiu- tioii, we were h.idly provided. We traveled lor .several (layn willioiit meeting' with niiy Jiiiiiiiiils, and I shared the littlo dried provision which 1 had with the liimter's tiiiuilv. Ori the l.")tli we killed a iiioiiiitaiM sheep, which was tpiicklv de- voured, there not heiiii,' the smallest appiehensioii at the tiiiit) that I'aiiiiiie witiild overtake us. Day alter (hiy, however, passed away without a siuL'le head of j.'aiue ol any descriji- tioii heiiiLT s<'<'ii, and the children hei.'au to coniplaiu loudly ; but the hunter's wili',a youiii,' hall-hred we laii, hore the ali- stineiice with iiidilt'ereiice, allliiiu;.'h she had two iiiliint twiiiH a* the breast. (Jii the 'Jlsl we louiid two youn , porciqiiiie.s, which wer(? shan-d aiiioiij^ the piirty ; and two or three days atterward a lew tine trout were caiiirht. Wt; arrived in tlio Suiokiiiii River on tin; f^th ot' September, where the hunt- er killed two sheep, and a period was put to lair abstinence, tor before the sheep were eaten he shot .several I utl'aloes." — V. :tll. Ho next proceeded along tlie momitains, and liail reached th til2 ARCTIC VOYAGES. lirty orforest-fi'oos pivntly inrroasos. Tlio few ninsscc! tluit 1 if|(Vi!H'(l in \\\i' excursion were so thw, tliat [ cdiiM not hill (looply regret tluit I was iiiml)lo to pass a srasoii or two ill that iiittu't'stiiiLi; iviiioii." Another dispalch was reci^ivrd from T)r. liiohanlson, r('(|iiostiiims only to regret tliat ho had done so littlt!. >'ot this mod- est naturalist says, " My collections on tlio mountains Hmoiinted o ahont fitU'JMi hundred speci'vs of plants, one hundred aiid tifty birds, fifty quadrupj'ds, iUkl u consid- erable numlier of insects." Captain Kianklin and his ])arty, having embarked in the pack(4 from Now Tork, arrived -M Liverpool on tho 2 Ith of September, aftoi an absonsei ol two yeai's. seven months and a half. ('ommand(M' iJack, Lieutcmaiit Ken- dall, and Mr. Drummond, with the rest of tho party, ar- rived at Portsmouth on the 10th of October. Franklin and Kiciiardsou arrived in London on the 'JDtli of Sep- tember, when tho charts and surveys were laid lioforo his royal higlmess tho lord-high-admiral. rnder the guidance of such men as those einplctyed on tlie last two expeditions, it is not n(>cessary to say ii word on the manner in which tlu^y have been conduct- ed. Information has been obtained in every depai'tment of science, and (juite sutficient as to the luain point on which they wer«^ undertaken, namely, iu general t(M'ms. " to amend the dtdective geograpliy of the northern coast of America." TIm^ Arctic vovaixes having com- iiienced. and as it was not unlikely that I^arry, on liis second voyage, would make an attempt to proc(H^d along that coast, it was decMued advisable that an examination sliould be undertaken from the uioiith of the Copper Mine River to the eastern part of the coast. The (pies- tion lias now been settled. The whole coast-lino is oiio continued series of rocky islets, with channels biMweiMi them mostly choked with ice. the sea beyond them also covered with ice. in \\\('. shape of lloes and homniocs ; i I I.' back's journey to the polar sea. 313 reofs of rocks pai'allt'l with the hoiich, their iiit(M'ni(Mh- ate chaiini'ls shallow, and in many plarrs not naviiiaMo oven by boats; the weatln'i* fou;;y and stormy, with vio- lent yalos ot" wind, so that Franklin says, attor dra^i^ing his boats .'}74 miles to the w«vstward of iNlackenzie's Kiv- er, " in all tliat space not a harbor exists in which a sliip could find shelter." Dr. Richardson notices but one spot in the course of HOO miles — the strait of the Dol- pliii' and Union — in which there is water for larj^c? ves- sels ; but lie says, " the navigation of it would i)e dan- fjerous to ships, from the many sunktMi rocks which wo oltserved near the southern shore." J)ease and Simpson held out no encouragement for sliip navi$i;ation near the coast, and they found the west- ern portion of it, beyond th«^ point to whici» Franklin ad- vanced, rocky, sliallow, and muddy on and near the beach, and the sea fienerally loaded with heavy ice. (Jeoifrajjhy and natural history liavn j^ained very larj^ely by these expeditions ; and to these may be added mete- orology in all its aspects, including magn»'tism and elec- tricity. CHAPTER XTL rOMMANDER BACK. 1833-34-35. Journal of a Land Ejpcditioih to (he. Kastrrn Part of the po- lar tSea, through North America to the Month of Back's River. To those readers who luivo mrule tliemselves familiar with the extraordinary and painfully-interesting adven- tures of Franklin and Richardson within the Arctic re- gions of North AnuM'ica, and along thf* sliores of the Po- lar Sea, the name of Back, the associate and sharer of nil th«^ir privations and sulferings, must also be iumiliar. In voluntarily undertaking tlie present expedition, Ik^ was fully awar(* of whiit he would prol)al)ly, nay, most ciM-taiuiy have again to encounter — similar harclslii[)s iu J) n / ,i >M ^(i; I ■I ail ARCTIC VOYAGES. -! i I t * ^ j,, j, 1 it 1 ? his pro}j;ross tlirnujih tlio same cmnitry. Tlio iiioh « was no Ipss honoraljlo li» liis licarl than tlio act itsciU' wan to liis uiiiliiicliiii^ coiira^o. [{riiiii in Italy, a rumor, he says, reached liim from lOiiiilaiKJ tliat a|)|)reli»'ii.sioiis were «Mitertaiiie(i for tluj safely of the two Koss's, the uncle and nephew, on the lieariiiff of which (with a true chivalrous spirit) h«^ lias> ti'iied iionie, for the purpose of olferinji his services to jioveniuient for the conduct of an ex|)editioii in seardi of them; and his olfer was accepted. He received a letter from Lord (JocUnich, acquainting him that the Lords of the Admiralty iiad been ; 'eased to transfer liis sei'vices to the Colonial DepartnuMit, to conduct the ex- pedition in (piestion, and h»^ was directed to undertake it, and als(» to place himself at tlni disposition of the govern- ors and committee of tiie Hudson's Hay Company, who would he desired to furnish him with the retjuisito i«^- soui'ces and su|)i)lies. A nu'dical pei'son IxMng required to take car«i of the health of tlu^ ptirty, Mr. Richard King, in the tirst in- stance, volunteen'd his services, and was subsequently tMigaged, at a salary, as surgeon and naturalist to the ex- pt^dition. Three men oidy (two of whom wore a car- j)enter and a shipwright) were taken from England, ^j^hese five persojis left on the 17tii of February, JH;5;5, for Liver|)ool, to proceed from tlu'iuHi in the packet to New York, and thence to Albaiiy antl MontitMil. As the rout»> usually followed by the ('ompany's servants to tlu^ (ireat ^lave liake is the same as that of Sii- A. Mackenzie, v)mmander iiack ol)s«'rves that a detail of his progress ,< far setMUs to he uimecessary, that being the point from which, ho adds, tiie discovery properly b(»gins. Jlt^ had, however, a long journey before him from Nor- way House, where i)reparations of men, and boats, and sledges were made under the direction of CJovernor Simp- son, to Slave Lakt>; and it would be unjust to slur over altogether a fatiguing jouriu'y through one of the most dangerous and detestable countries on the face of the earth — the numerous sulfei-ings from cold and famine, and otluM* hardships of various descriptions, which he knew from former experience he would have to encoim- riio inoti ^^ ct it.sell' WHS \ liim from itMi tor tlio WW, oil fho rit) lie liiis^ sorviccs to II ill s.'aicli rtMM'ivod u n thill tlio transH'r his ucl th(^ cx- ndcitiiko it, tho fiovcni- iipjiny, who Hjuisito ro- cani of tho lio first iii- ibsoquently t to tlio ex- veio a car- 1 Eii; y i)ioperiy from Nor- boats, and nor Simp- ) slur over tho most lee of tlui 1(1 famine, which hrt toeiicouii- nACK'rf JOURNEY TO TIIK POLAR SEA. 315 ter, and all of which he bore with a dejiree of cheorfn'- iiess and jj;oo(l humor peculiar to iiimself. (iuide<' by tJio iiobb^ example of his foriiuM* colleajiiuvs, Franklin and Jvichardson, he never shrunk from dilficulties, never murmured, never desponded. Like a true IJritish sea- man, the ji;reater the danger, tlu^ more lirinly he stuck to the bark, dcMeriiiiiHMl to hold on, sink or swim. The praiseworthy object alone which he luul in view took full possession of his mind ; and when he found at Nor- way House that no less than twenty men, composed of steersmen, carpenters, artillerymen, tVc., had been al- ready collected to accompany liim, he giv(;s vent to this ;,'enerous burst of <'xultation : " This was a happy day for me ; and as tlm caii<»<' pnshotl otV fioui the bank, my iieart swelled with liopt' and joy. Now, lor the first lini«', I saw myself in a conditif)!? to verity the kind anticipations of my fri(.'nds. The j)re I i miliary ditli- culties iiiid l)«'en overcoint* ; I was fairly on the way to tho acconiplislinient of the benevokMit errand on wliicli I had been coiniuissioned ; and the conteini)lation of an object so worfliy of all exertion, in wlfah I lliou^bt myself at leiiirth free to indulge, raised my spirits to more than an ordinary pitch of excitement." — 1'. 57, 58. Tho only disappointment lie felt, but, nt tho Bamo time, one that amused liim, was the loss of two Cana- dians, former acquaintances, who presented tliemselvtvs, jilmost breathless with haste, ns candidates for the ser- vic<\ were accepted, and tlu>ir aii;reenieiit.s direct«Ml to bo made out. ^Pheir wives, liowever, took different but equally effectual methods to imneiit their completion, and to keep their husbands at home : " The one, a pood strapping dame, cuffed licr husband's ears willi such «lexttn-ity ami good will, that be was fain to cry pcrcari, and seek shelter in a friendly tent ; the other, an interesting girl of seventeen, burst into tears, and with pite- ous sobs clung to the husband of her love, as if slit^ wuiiKl liold liim prisoner in her arms, I had, therefore, to look elso- wli<-re."— P. 55. lie describes the odd assemblage of articles that we ro liuddled together in his tent; "nor was my crew," he says, " less motley than the furniture. It consisted of Hii Englishman, a man from Stornoway, two Canadians, two uietifs, Hud three Iroquois Indians. IJabel itself i ■'cl / ^ 1:: 81 G ARCTIC VOYAGEg. CfMild not havo prodncrd n worse; confusion of iinlmnno- uious sounds tliiin was rlir convcM'satiou tlicy kept up." A whole dcot of ludiiii' cjinocs was met with, wliosc* chief, an inteUiijent -looking old jnan, nnnied by the trad- ers " Le Caniarade d(! MandeviHe." was stated to hav(^ an extensive knowledge of th(; countiy to tlie northward of the (ireat Slave; Jjake. He was hronjfjit witli liis Indians to JJack's encanipment, for the purpose; of <;iving him some intoiMiiatietn of the* rive;r he; was about to de- sceMul to the sea-(M)ast. AV^ith all be^tittinji; ce'reMuony, j)reliminarie's were^ ojjene'el by the custoniary pipe ; for, ns Jiack observes. " a soe-ial putf is to an Indian what a hetttle^ of wine^ is te) an Kniilishnian — apfvit prcecord'ui — it unlocks the- he'art and dissipate's reserve'." He thus sketche's the inmates of one; of thei chief's cnnoes : " The tonl cnxoiihlf of this ' j)c()j)lc,' as they with sonio vanity style tli('nis('lvt!.s, was wild and f:i'()tcs(|iie in the! cx- trt'uie. One cauoo, in particular, fixed iny attention; it was Binall even for u canoe ; and how ei^dit men, women, and children contrived to stow away tlirir le<,'s in a sj)ace' nut more than lar^'e enouuli for three 1 Itn-npi'Miis, would liuvo been a pu/./liujj; |)robl('m to one unac(|uaint('il with the sup- j)leness of an Indian's UMbandaijed liinl)s. There, however, tli(>y were, in a temperature of ()()^, packed heads and tails, like^ Yarmouth lierrinirs — half naked — their hair in elf-locks. lo7i;r and matted — liltliy beyond description — and all seiuall- imr toirethe'r. 'J'o com])lete the picture\ tlieir dops. scarce one decree below them, formed a sort of body-guard on each siele e)f the river; and as llu? canoe glided away with tli(> curi-ent, all tlie animals t«»gellier, hinnan and canine, set up a shrill and horrible yell." — I'. 7ii, ( )ne of the half-breM'ds, named Do Cliarloit, is describ- ed as be'ing; ii de'xte're)us cane)e-nmn in j)assinsj; raj)ids : ]{ae'k"s e-anoe, thouuh frail, and te)e) we-ak to eue-onnter rude' she)e'ks, " was neve'rthe;less tlireade'd throuyli the boiling; rapids and sunken I'oe-ks with fearful elegance: the' coe)i dexte'rity with which she was manage'd was truly admirable'." As tlie'y preKieeded. the chie'f, "Le Camarade," gave the'iti soun; infoi'mation re'gai'efing tiie' rive'r, but it was dillicult te) make out the- be'arings e)f the' plan he; sketch- ed ; and whe'u Hack attempte;d te) questie)ii anel assist l)im. he' tit last peevishly exclaimed "that we did not BACKS JOURNEY TO Till: lOLAR S1:A. 317 f 'iiilmnno- v\\\\, wlioso )y tlio fnul- fed to liavH northward It Avith liis se of ;i;iviiio bout to d('- ccrcniony, pipe; fur, iaii wliut a reerordia — He thus noes : with snino ' ill tln! ex- ion; it was ^oincn, and I ispai'f iii)t .vould havo ith tlio suj)- ', howcvff, Is ai:d tails, in elf-locks, I all s<|ual!- lops, s(;aret> ii'd on eacli y witli the R', set up a is dfvscrib- ),ii ra])ids : encounter rouyli the eiofiance : tiiji'd wu.« ide," gave ut it was le nketch- luid assist c did not placo the world as it wms, whorens ht kept steadily to the risiuii '"id settinji snn." The river, however, is stated to have been jiraphirally portrayed by him, as oriiiiiiating in rapids: narrow, shoal, and dunfrerous ; destitute of wood, even for fuel: full of ])erilous cascades and tails; and that, after a course luore tortuous than ihat of any river known to the eldest and most experi- enced of th»Mr tribe, it tumbled o.er its northern barrier in a foaininji; cataract into the soa The party was now approachini' the hifj;ldands, from whicii the waters take an opposite course, and from whetice the labors wliich Back says had hitherto been so cheerfully underfjone (bein^^ little more than those to which roi/(ii4('urs are accustomed) were now to be chaii^^ed into extraordinary efforts and patient perseverance. Cas- cades and rapids followed each other in quick suc- cession. To avoid them, it was necessary, with inlinito labor, to force their way throujt^li woods of stunted swamp-fir, clamberino; over thcs fallen trees through riv- ulets juid across swamps, gcttini; on as well as the bur- dens tliey were obliged to carry would permit; and when they emerged, all was barren and desolate. On jiaining, however, the summit of tlie i)ass, which divides tlu^ waters, and is of great height, sucli was the beauty of tlie varied outfun^ on the northern side, " that we Avere captivated into a momentary forgetfulness of our fatigue." But fatigue alone was not the main cause of their suflfering: "The laborious duty which liad heeti thus satisfactorily l)erf()nned w'as reiulered (hinhly severe by the combined !it- tack ()t myriads of sandtiies and musquetoes, which made our faces stream with blood. There is certainly no form of wrctchc.lness, amoui,' those to whicli tli(> checkered life of a vnyafreur is exposed, at once so great and so Immiliating as the tortiire inflicted by these pimy l)lood-suckers. To avoid them is impossible ; and as for defending himself, though for a time he may go on cnisliing them by thousands, he can not long maintain the nne(|ual confhct ; so 'that at last, subdued by pain and fatigue, he throws himself in despair with his face to the earth, and, half suffocated in his blanket, groans away a few hours in sleepless rest." — V. 117. Again he says, " After a haril day's work, my weary crew were happy to D L> J 318 AU( TIC VOYAtJKri. M •i\ f I ( I -H •( » I;-" i r )1 "i " ( t r lave Lake, Mr. M'Leod was diivcted to prepare a building lor their winter i-eception, after JJack's return Irom the discovery of the som-ce of the river which was to convey him to the sea-coast. He set out for this purpose arid alter crossing numerous lakes, rapids, riv- ers, and Inghttnl cataracts, mrived at a lofty hill, and rom It saw- a lake, out of which lie was told one of the f)ranches of tlui sought-for river issued. He here saw only a te^y geese, one gull, and many terns, and mus- quetoes like the foimh plague — innumerable. "No other iving thing was seen or heard ; the air was calm, the lake unrultled ; it seemed as if Natur.? had fallen into a trance, tor all was silent and motionless as death.'» ilie si)Iendid lake was named Aylmer. The river which ]Jack had now to descend was callcul by the natives Thlew-ee-choh, or the Fish Kiver, and since has very properly been described by the (leo- gi-aphical Society, and in the charts, by tJie name of ISacks HiV€r,he having been the first European who had descended it. AVhen he was fully satisfied, by one ot the guides, that he had reached one of its feeders he says, " yielding to that pleasing emotion which discov- erers, in the first bound of their transport, may be par- doned for indulging, I threw myself down on the bank and drank a hearty draught of the limpid water." The main stream was speedily approached, and, as the month oi August had expired, it became expedient, nav. mm ' I» , ■! 1 .1 '|5 P ' 'i I- i ' ! ! S 4'l I t t 3'J() ARCTIC VuVAGEri. f * }. Those scenes of misery amon^ the ))oor nutives, lor want of food and fuel, were more distressing to the feeling heart of iiack than any privation that could hap- l)eu to iiimself. The old, the sick, and tlie miserahle had heard of hiui, ai d were not long in finding their way to the house of the white man, to ohtain that relief from starvation wliich, iu seasons of distress, it would he hopeless to seek for among their own countrymen. 'J^he suflerings of the poor Indians at this period are not to he descrihed. " Famine, with her gant and l)ony arm," says Back, " pursued them at every turn, witliered their energies, and strewed them hfeless on the cold hosom of the snow." Nine had fallen victims, and oth(!rs were on the eve of perishing, when tlie old chief Akaitch(» came to their rehef. To add to the distress of Back, he re^ceived informa- tion that his friend Augustus, the former alfectionate Es(iuinraux interpreter, hearing of his heing again in the country, set out from Hudson's Bay in company with a Caiiadijui and an Iroquois ; they lost their waj% were separated, and poor Augustus fell a sacrifice to famine. His remains were fountl on the haiTens not far from the Riviere a Jean. It ajjpeared that the gallant little fel- low was retracing his steps to the estahlishment. when, eitlier exhausted by sulfering and privation, or caught in the midst of an open travei'se in one of tlioso terrible 1 V *'l back's journey to the I'OLAR SEA. 321 return to e up Ills ruiiH'Work ns.sistiuico acl ass(Mii- niid otluT lire, occii- all hits of ire, atViinl- ii tt!iiijH*rii- l(i\v zcrr)). ill ii hollow > tho iiifjiiit \cd and ex- ly around : i."— I'.^ia. mtivcs, for m^ to tho could hiip- iiiiseriihlo iding their tliat relief i, it would itlTliieii. period are gaut and very turn, lifeless on in victims, en the old d informa- lectionate ain in the ny with a vay, were to famine. r from the little fei- nt, when, or caught so terrible snow-storms, wliicli may ho almost said to hlow through the frame, he had sunk to rise no more. " Such," siiys ]5ack, "was tho miserable end of poor Augustus! a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, wlio had won the regard, not of myself only, but, I may add, of kSir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in the highest forms of social life, are tho ornament and charm of hu- manity" — qualities, it must bo said, that wen? found in full vigor in the kind-hearted iiack. "Often," said he, on another occasion, " did I share my own plate with the children, whose hel[)less state and piteous cries were peculiarly distressing. Compassion or the full- grown may or may not be felt, but that iieart must bo cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for food." His own party had a full share of the general distress ; their rations were deplorably reduced ; but this, how- ever, produced no complaining, no sullen or sulky looks in the brave fellows he had engaged in England and in Canada. They had none of those means so skillfidly employed by Parry on board ship to keep up the spirits of the men ; but no objection was raised to the forma- tion of an evening school ; on the contrary, it was con- sidered as an anmsement, that tended to the mainte- nance of their cheerful and general good spirits. About the middle of April active preparations were begun for their intended journey to the sea-coast ; and while so employed, a me'jenger on the 25th of that \nonth brought a packet for ]?ack, which contained the lUiexpected and welcome intelligence of the safety of Ross and his party. The hurry and excitement of his feelings on the occasion he thus describes : " 111 the fullness of our hearts wc assembled together, and "lunibly offered up our thanks to that merciful I'rovidenco which, in the beautiful languafre of Scripture, hath said. ' Mine awn will I l)ring again, as I did sometime from the deeps of the sea.' The thought of so womlerful a preservation over- nowt^red for a time the common occurrences of life. We had just sat down to In-eakfast; but our aj-petlto was gone, and llie day was passed in a feverish state of excitement. Seldom, indeed, did my friend Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but ou tliis joyful occasion economy was forgotten ; a treat 21 mm ,1' 322 AUCTIC VOYAOEH. Ml' r.. ) \ I I ■ * I I wjiH f,'ivcii to tlip men, and for oiirsflvt's tho wkihI synipiitiiiiH Wfic (luickc'iieil by a gfiicrous l)o\vl (»t puncli." — 1'. 'Jl.>. On tljo 7th of Jmie, Jiuck, accoinpiiuiod by Mr. Kinj,', Jeft Fort Reliaiici!, eucli delighted, us may well ho imu- j!;inod, in escapiiif; from sconos of suHoring and death, froni heart-rending caro and vexatious disappoinlmcnt. " Jieforo me," ho says, " were novelty and enterpiiso ; hope, curiosity, and tlie love of adventure were my coni- ])anions ; and oven the prosp»;ct of dilFiculties and dan- gers to he encountered, with the responsibility insepara- ble from command, instead of damping, rather hui^dit- ened tho enjoyment of the moment." On the L'Btii of June the boat wjis earned over the last portage which divides the northern streams from the southern ones, into the latter of which she was to bo lunched, it being the river which ho had discovt^red, the ThLcw-ce-choli, or, as appropriately now named, Jiack's River, and which Was to convey them into the Polar Sea. A singular remark is hero made regarding the tem- perature. About tho end of May, just before they sot out, the weather was sultry, the temperature in the sun being 10(i^ ; an extraordinaiy contrast, ho observes, to tliat of tho 17th of January, when it was 70° below zero ! extremes so much in excess from any recorded, that the correctness of the instrument may be doubted. Tlusy now experienced the weather to be cold, thick, and foggy. On clearing up, they were overjoyed to dis- cover the branching antlers of twenty reindeer on tho sununit of the adjacent hills. To see and pursue was tho work of a moment. " It was a beautiful and interesting Right, for the sun shono out, and, lighting up some parts, cast others into deeper ehade : the white ice rt-flectod millions of dazzling rays ; the rti[)id leaped and chafed in little ripples, which melted away into the uurulflod surface of tho slumbering lake ; abnipt ancl crag- gy rocks frowned on the right; tuul ou the left, the brown landscape receded until it was lost in the distant blue mounl- ahis. The foreground was filled iip with the ochre-colored lodges of the Indians, contrasting with our own pale tents ; and to tho whole scene animation was given by the graceful motions of the unstartled deer, and the treacherous crawling of the wary hunters." — P. 307. Mr. M'Leod had assembled some hunters, to return I M -M V \ «ynip(itliic8 -1\ 'J i:>. Mr. Kiiifi, ell he iinii- iiiul (Ictitli, i|)()inlm(Mit. jntcrpiiso ; •e my com- »s and (imi- y insej)iirii- ler hei^lil- ho L>8tli (.f tiige which hern ones, ad, it beiiii; eiv-ee-cli(ili, , and which g the tem- vo tliey set I in the sun )bserves, to 70<^ below Y recorded, )e doubted, cold, thick, )yed to dis- leer on the jursue was le sun shnno jeper ehado : r, the rapid d away into iptand craj^- t, the browu blue mounl- chre-colorc'd 1 pale tents ; the graceful JU3 crawling s, to return BACKS JOURNEY TO THE I'OLAU HEA. 323 to tlie fort by tlio best way to meet witli musk-oxen, tlm scarcity of animals increasing as Hack proceeded to the north. Amon^ tlu^ ^roupof Indians Ih) met with an old acfjuaintance, formed when wifli Franklin, who went by the name of (ireen Stockings, whoso mother was afraid that if the portrait he drew of her went to Kngland, tho kin^r would send for the original. "Though stirroundcd by a I'anuly, wifli one nrcldn in Iut cloak cliugiiig to her back, and siuidry othrr niatt'nial accoin- j)aniui<'ntH, 1 inujiediatrly recogui/.t'd her, and called lirr by her name; at which she laughed, and said 'she was an old wouian now;' begging, at the same time, that she mi^'ht bo relieved by the ' medicine man, t!>r she was very much out of health.' Ilowever, notw ithstandiuir all this, she was still the beauty of the tribe; and witli that consciousness which ln>- longs to all belles, savage or polite, seemed by no means dis- I)lcased when I sketched her portrait." — 1'. 'M7. From this time till their ajiproach to the sea, a con- stant succession of falls, and ra])ids, and cataracts more or Ic^ss obstructed their progress, and, as Hack says, " nuido liim hold his breath, expecting to see the boat dashed to shivers against some protruding rocks amid tlie foam and fury at the foot of a rajud." In passing down one of th(>se, wluM'e the river was full of large rocks tuid bowl- (mil -Ml it in I I In" i flni inii" icMv A lout III I'lllii'i il 1 1 ■'■ liDii WKiilil liiixi* lii'iMl Intnl. Init wiili llii> iiiiwt |ii ilfii I'iMi', mill. I iii.'i\ mill, I'li'K'int miil >'i;iii'liil III I i>>ii. Iii'< Ui'i'ii i'> i"« Il VI il ii|t I II 'I 1 1 III' til Ini I iHii SI' llniiii::ii nil il^inpiil \\ iiiiliiif;M." — I'. Iii.i. ■\l liMifMh. liM\v««\i«i . iIh'V H'lnlicil )||(> \i\h\ Mini imunI (hi iiinlnliii' kI in|niiN ; tiini liiMi< tlii<\ It'll iti with ii |inily • i| tl\iisi> t> I, I, hi I, 'lis |'',M|iiiniiiii\ iijMiiii'^t ulmm llii« In iliMM I liiiM liMil NO iirt;iMitly riintitUHi| sjirnf^, iiiiii v»'lls, iniil \vilil i^i'^lii iilnlinn'^. unlKi'il iip In liitMii, tiilliiir, oiii t, ipiiii )»t'ni'i>. In .111 111 .Iniit iIhmi s|n'nrM wi'it" lliiii;^ nn the >;itiniiil; iiiiil. |>Imi 111!^ llicii liiiiiih mi llifii Int'iisH. ihiM iilsit iniiiic tliiMii iiinlt'i siniiil tlii>\ \Vi>rt> l\iihliu>)h>s l'',iii'i)|)i'iiii>4, mill lint linliiiiis; hihI ln> sn\M. "US tli<>\ iliil nut. IiIm> llifir lUM^Iilnf s to tlio NiMtli. i;o till oui;li tlii> fon'iiioiiN ty\' nihhi>i>: (lu't pnlliii;') fhwi .<> I)\ \vii\ til s:iliilnt ion, I iiilo|i|t>il tlii< .loin l>nll In.li »i>n ol" "ihaUiii^ I'm li ol llii'iii lii'iiitiU liv tlio liiiini." \ low j>n'son|>< wore i;iM>n to tlioiii; iiinl Hn K wont to llioir toiil-^, inlioiiiiii'il linii'«t'li to llioir wnnii'ii iimi » liil tlii'ii. mill liml i'\oi\ rt'.ison to Ih'Iu'M' lie liml oltlinnoil llioir I'onliiloiifo. I'ln'ir iuihiImmn, Iio lliniUs, w t'ro iillo Cotlior iilioni llmtx liv o. riu'so i;ot>il nut in I'll niiil iVionillv |>oo|)Io woio ol' tlll^ ^nosl I'ssontinl >iorvico to("!i|>lMin l»mK; lor inronnittion Ix'ihl: broiiLlliI lo linn lioni llio loiiilinj', niiin ol tlio luiiil ih.Ml, Ml ponloiis w !is the liitiiiiuM now to lu' jiassoil, no bii.it coniil tlt'scoiitl it, mill llmt tlio t'low won* nllorl\ nni>(|n!il tii the I;i"«K ol tonxoviii:; it omt tlio loni; jitnl slcop povlHii«> - " TiiUiin: iiil\initiii;o.'" lie sii\s. " ol" llio Cooil Inmiororonr now !H(pi:iint;in('o><. I foipiostod tln'iii to cwo lis i) lii'lpiiiL: limul. Tlio ictpii"-! wns fln'orrnllv ronipiioii Willi, iiiiil. Willi tluMi' .•isviisliincc, wo siifcooilod 111 cMirv ill;; tlio lioMl liolow the Inll, so tli;it. in roiility. I » us iiiii«'!)I(Ml lo tlioni tor coltiiic lo llio sou til all." lluMiii; ]>;ivtoil iViMii tlit> l'.s(]iiiniiin\ on tlio 'JHtli ol" .lnl\. on llu' lollow nii; il.iN tliov t:ol si«;lii ol" n lolly lioml- l.iiul at a ^i(»at ilistMiicti to tin' north, iipparoiitly on tlio «\asi(>ni siili' ol tin* iM\or. wliu-li iliov conit'i'lnroil to ho «M\»» siilo ivt tho opi'iiii;': into tho soa. and it provod to ho 60. Ti) this proiuoiUoiy l>a«-k j^avo ihe uaiuo ot' \'ii't(>- r.'i IIACKH Inruivrv TO 'IMir, I'or.AK Ml A, .•{•»r» IIHI" 1(1. Iv ; liiit Willi lltl f'i;i<)'liil Ikm Ii iii> 1.) iiml innMi illi II |iiirly Ml lll)> III |(> lllllilril, lllul > fll'l, I iilliiir, oiil <« (llllli; nil II InriisN, llllIlM stilllil ilitiii'4 : mill ii">< !•• tlio it plllllll!'.) Hull liisli iiiinl." \ Iv WiMll III II mill dill il uhtmiK'il Wt'lr llllit (M(> til llio lilnnMllllDIi III lll«» llUil) ItliSSCtl, llll MO iiII I'slcil lliriii chi'tMliillv siir(»M'il(>il I rnility. I I all." it« 'JSth til" lol'ly linui- illv oil lilt' lUltMi tt» III' niviMJ 111 lii> < ol" \" iito I III, III litiiinr 1)1 |Im< |iiiiiri"4M rMlt, IiIhK IIiIH MIIMIM II|) 11 I'l'Mfllll V|l>\V <>l iJlht IMIpl'llMMm IIVIM' III III|IIi|m, l'l|MrM(lfM, lllnl llllll llirl'i : " 'I'lli'l, IIk'II, III.'IV I"' •itllMiili'liil 111 l||i< MliHllll III till' 'I'llll'W- <•■ I'lliill, VnIiIiIi, llltlT M VtiiliMll llllll llll lilnil-i iiiUI'ii' 1 1| I'lsn IiiiiiiIk'iI llllll lliiilv ;'<'i>"i ii|i|iit III iMili-J, iiiiiiiiii" lliiiiii.i'li llll null lililiril riilMltlV, Ulllliilll tl Hlll."li> tlCi' Mil llll' wliull' llllll III iIm IiiiiiKm, i'X |iiiiiiIiii!; iiilii line liHi'x liilu'-i Willi < li'ni liuii- mix, iiiiwl cMiliiii iii>4'4iii;^ III till' Mil V I'Miliii , llllll liiiiKi'M mill I.iIIm, t ,'l>i ilM VMlli'M ilili) ill'' I'lilill Si II III lilll- IihIi' (I; 11 III) N., llllll |iiii;;iliiil<< !> I llll I) W ; lli;il i-^ In i:;lV, itillllll lllil ly Hl<\ I'M Mlill'-* IMMI'I' HIMllll lIlltM IIh' MIIIIIIIi III till' <'ii|(|iii- Mini' Uivrr, iiml iiiiu'ti'i'ii miiIi'm mmmi' wimiIIi iIium llllll III UiuK'k Wivit, lit llll' luwiT I'xtrciiiil V ol I •iilliiM'^rM Ill- Ill "—I'. :i!MI. " SiiMitioiil I'lM* lln< liny h IIh' «'vil llu'rotiC;" ImiI. uilli tllt> ll|)|llllliM!^ I'l'llt'l'lllll) III' hllVIMI' III I'kIMI'II II|I, IIIhI Ml li|l- |iiisilM»M III, till li'M'^ tliiiM I'l^lily lliri'i' IiiIIm, ciisriiili'M, immI riipiils, iii'tliMiil III" •lii'^liiiin (ItiwM llii'iii iH liitliiMtii, it n*- t|iiirt'il nil iMiMltMiilt* sliiin* «•! rirniiM'WM iinil I'l^^iiliitiiiM In pIMUfVlTI' ill lllt» lllltMllpl III IIMM'W llll' millM" Iftlllc, III Ki> III I Ml III' I -! till' llllllltll III A ll^llsl. A I ill ill pi II lit llll till' I'lisli'iii siili< III' lilt' I'sliiiiiy, wliirli Im' ciiIIi'iI ( 'iipn lliiv. Ill' iiiM'^iili'n'fl III lie llll' iiiii'tlii'i'ii I'xIii'iiM', liril, |)i'iisi« nnti Siiiip'^iiM NMlisi'ipii'iillv ilisi'iivi'i't'd ii rtirisiili'i'- iililt' li'ii^lli iirniiiMl lit'yiiiiil it. Kill' It'll iliiyH tlit' wi'iilli- I'l I'liiitiiiiii'tl fliilly, wi't.mitj l"ti^i;y, llllll tlit' i"rica, to the N.E. ; and off ley Cape, near which the ships renuiined four days, due east, at the rate of 25 and 'M) miles a day." The extreme point seen to the northward, on tho western side of the estuary, Back named Cape Richard- M\ n back's journey to the polar sea. 327 ited by the 11, broke out li«irs was a itate of pri- jiii canyiiig ^n his inteii- Point Turn- by Franklin, vard to trace 3 ; but they fifteen miles most severe id midh;g at id of vefjc^ta- es of drift- . nine inches " a piece of Lt the fact of a establishes of the iMac- d alone have lie southern iver to Point >een brouf^ht he Macken- )\vn the nu- antains ; the trait carries end of the 1823, in re- ct regarding oast of Asia sj)ect to the iserved con- S\\V. ; near ley Cape, luc east, at ard, on the pe llichard- son. which, he says, is in lat. (58° 4G', long. OG^ 20' W. Another point a little to the westward of this he named Maconociiie, and thinks there is reason to believe that between them and Point James Ross a passage exists — a conjecture fully verified by Deaso and Simpson hav- ing sailed through it in the year 18:30. But of the dis- coveries of these gentlemen hereafter. Captain iJack is also correct in describing an open sea to the eastward as far as the spacious eastern extremity of Simpson's Strait, and also beyond it to the Gulf of Akkoolee. As a farther proof of an open sea, free of land, ho says that a gale of wind from the eastward swept a whole field of ice from that gulf past Back's Estuary, which, how- ever, a westerly gale brought back again, and it disap- peared. Pinned down as he was to this miserable spot, when nothing more could be done, '* 1 felt," he says, " 1 had no choice ; and, assembling the men, 1 informed tlnun that th(i period fixed by his majesty's government for my return had arrived, and it now only remained to unfurl the British Hag, and salute it with three cheers, in hon- or of his most gracious majesty, giving his royal name of William the Fourth's Land to this part of Atnerica.'* On the l^th of August the ice in the estuary had suf- ficiently parted to allow the boat to proceed, and with open water and a fair wind, they made aliout twenty miles to the southward, in commencing their return, " where, for a second time in nine days," liack says, " we partook of a warm meal." The many didicultios they had experienced in falling down the river were at least doubled in the lal)or of going against the stream ; rocks and rapids, and sand-banks, with numerous Porta- ges, were all again to be encountered. "One t. iy," Back says, "wo ascended between sixteen and twenty rapids." It would bo a waste of the reader's time, and a trial of his patience, to repeat what has already been said regarding this river. Having ascended the high grounds which divide tho northern from the southern stre, ,ns. the Aylnier, the Artillery, and the Clinton (^olden Lakes embellish the landscape, and discharge their waters into the (treat Slave Lake. Hero Back describes, and gives a print of, ^ .1 "\ ■ 328 ARCTIC VOYAGED. : H .,!• •"> \u- 1 I'h s f :) '.i . I!.,: rr ..I I ( 'a ' !i splendid riiscjid«>, wliirli ho mimos Parry's l^'alLs, jiud says it is oiio ot" tlie firaiulest objects in iiulnre. " The color of ihe wat»«r varied tioin a very li^'lit to a very dark Ljreeii ; and the spray, which spread a diiuiifSH altov*', was thrown np in clouds (if lijj;ht gray. Niaji;ara, \\ illicr- f'orcc's Falls in Hood's llivcr, tlio Hills of KakabiUka near Laki> Superior, the Swiss or Italian falls, altlnMifrh they may each ' charm th<» eye with dr«*a»l,' are not to he com|)ared to this tor spliMidor ot etVect. It w:'s the most imposin;,' specta- ele I had ever witnessed ; and as its J»erg-lik«> appearanco br.tuijht to mind associations of another scene, 1 bestowed upon it th«> name of our ct'h^brated navif^afor, Sir Kdwai'd I'arry, and called it I'arry's Falls."— P. !.''):{. As they proceeded, the Indians brought tliem provi- sions from time t«) time ; and the jjood old chief Akiiitelio, with his foll(»wers, tiioujih not very successful, was not wantinjT in his contributions. This old friend to Sir .lohn Franklin was underiioing the usual course which old ago and woiikness inthct on all tlio Indian chiefs. " }Ie is no longer the same aclivi^ and imi)ortanf person that h(^ was in those davs ; for, bt>sides the intinnities that have crept upon him, h<» has grown |)eevish ant<.s ;ii»(»V(', ra, WillxT- i)ikk!i near I llii'y iiiiiy •inpaivd Jo liii^' spt'cfa- ippramiico brstdwcd ir Kdwai'd am provi- Akiiitclio, I, was not u\ to Sir rso wliiili ^liiols. int person nitifs that •kld Norway House, and haviiiii arran^M-d the ( 'onijiany's ace. ,;;:;!;•. set out Cor IMontrt'al, where, in liis passaj^'e tliron^^h the I'liittMl Stales, he received the kiiah'st attentions ] lo left New ^ ork on th(^ 17th of An^ust, and aiTived ai Liverpool on the Hth of Septeniher, alUM' an absence* of two years and nearly scneii months. Mr. Khv^, with «'iuht (d" tho IIHM1, reached Kn^dand in tin* Hudson's Hay ( 'ojnpany'n ship in October. His .najesty luMiored Hack with an au- dience, and expresm'd his apjirobation of liis efforts, first ill the cause of humanity, and m'xt in that of geographi- cal and scientific res«iarch. In glancinj; over the subjects of natural liistory men- tiotied in the Apjiendix— the cjuadriipeds, birds, and fish- es described in Kn^iland by Hr. Kichardson, the insects by Mr. Children, and the plants by Sir William Hooker — it is impossible not to bestow tho hif;hest de<;r«Mf of praise on Mr. King, who, with great exertion and dili- gence iti collecting, and careful attention in preserving them, must liave undergone tmich labor and constant anxiety. Dr. Richardson says, "■ Those* specimtMis wero all candully prepared by Mr. Ricliard King, surgeon to tho expediticm, who des«M-ves tin* thanks of zoologists for devoting so much time and labor to tho promotion of tho ficienee, E K '.' / >l N 330 ARCTIC VOYAGES. -. t i •'I • ^ ) ♦I nrH t u ' A'''r\ •V ' 4 - 'A if v i I J 't CHAPTER XIII. CAPTAIN GEORGE BACK. 1836-37. Narrative of an Exprdition iti H. M. S. Terror, undertak- en with a view to Gccgraphical Discovery on the Arctic Shores. Tins voyage wns rocominondod by the Royal Goo- jirKi)lncal Sotiety to thn colonial secretary, and by him to the Lords of the Admiralty. The olycct of the so- ciety was nearly the same as that on which Captain Ly- on had been emj)loyed ; and the Admiralty having sup- plied a ship, the Tenor, fmniishod him also with instruc- tions, the jjeneral import of which was, that he should proceed in the first instance to Wajijer River or Repulse JJay, as he should find most expedient; observing, how- ever, that, at Salisbury Island, "you will liave to choose between the direct and obvious course up Frozen Strait, which was performed with a|)parent ease by the Fury and ilecla in 18'J1, or the more circuitous route by the Welconu', whicli was unsuccessfully attempted by tlio (Jriper in 1KJ4." Ciiptain Back, having this choice, from such high authority — success on the one hand, and failure on the other — could scarcely venture to hesitate in his decision ; he unfortunately, though naturally enough, made choice of flie former, or easy route. Whichsoctvtn' of the two bays, Repulse or Wager, ho should be able to reach (and neither of them did ho reach), the Terror was to be left with an oflicer, to take charge of Ihm*, and to (Muploy himself in making surv«^ys and observations, while \\w captain, with a large l)arty, should cross the int-irvening land to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, sending one party to the north as far as the Fuiy and Ilecla Strait, and the other to pur- sue the continental coast-line to the mouth or estuary of Back's River, and its continuation as far as the Point Turn-again of Franklin. These were the objects of the voyage, as poiuted out by the Geographical Society. \ • ^ back's attempt to reach REl'ULSE RAY. 331 vndertalc- 'hc Arctic yal Gno- J by him f the so- )tuin Ly- ving sup- i iiistruo e should Ropulso ng, how- o chooso an .Strait, he Fury te by the d by tho i dioice, uuid. nud > liosiliito niiturully y routes, iigor, ho II did he r, to take ; survt^ys 'ro party, shoni of north as r to pur- • estuary he Point iitsof the :iety. Tho details of tho instructions aro not nocossaiy to bo staffed, as tho object of thoni failed; but one remark is Uiiuh^ in them, wiiich can not always, however advisable, be ccmiplied with : it is their lordships' full belief that aL" the service detailed may be fully and faithfully perform- ed in th(^ course of the present season, and " that this Arctic oxpjidition may l)e distinguished from all others by tlie promptitude of its execution, and by escaping tVoiu the gloomy and unprolitable waste of eight jnontlis' de- tention : it is therefore our distinct orders that eviMy ef- fort shall be made to return to England in the fall of this year." The old proverb may here bo applied : " Man proposes, but CJod disposes." JJack and his associates not only wintered, but were w«Mlged up by massive ico in the wid(5 ocean for niiui whole months, from October to .luly, four of wh'ch were spent on "an icy cradle," as Captain liack graphically calls it; many scenes aro also graphically atid beautifully expressed, in nutnoroua exquisite j)rints by Lieutenant (now Captain) Smyth. Yet the Terror has survived it all, was throe or four years in the Antarctic Ocean, and is now with Sir John Franklin in tho Polar Seas. On tho present occasion she was commanded, ofiTicer- cd, and manned as follows : ficoriic I?ark, Caj)taln. William Hjnyth, f Owen Stanley, > L^jutcnaiita. Arch. M'Miinlo, ) (Jriihain (ioro, 1 Kt)lH'rt MCliiro, > Mates. TrUr FisliiT, ) Cliarlrs Marcuant, Extra Matr*. Jami's Oonovan, Suriri'on. J. A. iMimlti, Assistant Sur;(ron. Williaiii I,a\Vfs, ("jerk in (iiara;o. Jamos Sauuilers, Acting Master. ia OffictTS. 4 Warrant Officers. 13 I'ftty Officers. 44 Seamen and Marines. 73 Total. It may as well bt) at once stated, that Smyth and Stan- ley aro now captains ; Fisher and M'Murdo, command- ers ; (tore, M'Cluro, and Marcuard, lieutenants; ,T. A. Mould, surgeon ; Wni. Lawes, paymaster and purser ; J as. Saunders, master. 1 V !; .1 'V .-■ > 'f. J' 332 ARCTIC VOYAGES. 1 i ' l 'I ''V' « ^i rr 1. (I; '1'^?. On tlio 14th of June, 18:50, llic^ Tt^rror loft Cliathnm, and on the 'Jrith of July crossed Davis's .Strait. On that evening, when the weather cleared up, JJack says, " We obs(!rved an enormous iceherji, the j)er|)(;ndicular face of which was not h'ss than 300 feet high." Enormous in- deed : in what depth of water could it l)e, or had it been floating ? The next morning is describ(ul as bt^autifully fine, " the tall ship, with all her sails set, threading her graceful way through the masses of ice, upon a sea as smooth as an inland lake." A veiy difl'erent scene quickly succeeded on approaching that universally-detested Res- olution Island, with its dense fogs and its whirlpools, toss- ing iibout masses of ice, sweeping the ship among them, and rendering her utterly unuumageable. Having got clear of all the imj)ediments, they procetnled as far as the Savage Island.., where an iceberg either to|)pled over or part(^d with a larg(^ mass from its summit ; " and the splash in the water, the foam which succeeded, and the fearful rocking of the berg b(^fore it again settled upon its base, gave us som(? notion of danger." Near these islands a fleet of kaiyacks and oomiaks hailed theiu, as usual, with vociferous cries of tcj/iiKi. Back gives them the same bad character they had re- ceived from Lyon and others : " The women, in partic- ular, were mon* outrageous than I had ever observed be- fore ; for, besides disposing of their garments, which they never hesitated to do, more than one actually ofl'ered to barter their children for afew nec^dles." A young wom- an, observing that one of the officers had not nuicli hair oji his head, ofl'ered to su|)ply him with her own at the price of a curtain-ring. Tlu'se are the same Hudson's Strait Ks(piimaux which Lyon describes, and from whom he obtained carved tigures of a dog and bear: and it is remarkable enough to lind liaffin, in the year Ifil 5, re- cording that, near the Savage Islands, " Among the tents I found a little bagge, in which was a compnny of little images of num ; one the image of a woman with a child at her backe, all the which I brfiught away."* On the 14th of August they fell in with Nottingham Island, which is close by Salisbuiy Island, the jjlace where Back's instructions pointed out the two routes for his * BniTow'i? Chronological History of Arctic Voyngos. Ah I BACKd ATTEMPT TO REACH REPULSE HAY. 333 choiro ; nnd unluckily, ns has been suid, ho pitchod upon that whidi was to lend him "with enso" through the Frozen Strait. Their coiu'se was now northwest; and th»iy proceedi'd without much difficulty past the Trinity Islands, and beyond them as far north as lat. G5^ 2.3', and opposite to, but some distance from, ho opening of Fro- zen Strait. The ship was forced toward it throuj3;h floes of ice, " boring" as they went along, their object being to get near to Southampton Island, sometimes bos(ft, and occasionally getting into a lake of water. On the, 5th of St^|)temb('r they were tirmly fixed in the ice ; and the whole of the oftictM's, "with axes, ice- cliisels, hands|)ikes, and long poles, began the laborious process of cutting away the sludge that bound the pieces together." The weather was thick, and though they knew themselves to be near the coast, they could not tell pr(.'cisely wheniabout they were, for tluiir compasses were not to be trusted. On the evening of the llUh of September the Cape Comfort of liaffin bore nortli-north- cast, and they were not more than live miles from the nearest rocks. Thumped about among hommocs of ice, and "severely nipped," J5dck says : " At this time we appeared to be not more tba-ii four miles from the land, wliich was broken into exposed bays, utterly witlioiit shelter from the north, and blocked up with close- packed ice. Not a pool of water was visible in any direction : to llio mercy of ProvicbMice alone could we look for rescue from our perilous situation. None but those who have expe- rienced it can judire of the weariness of liearf, the blank of feeliutr, the feverish sickliness of taste, which pets the btMler of tlif whole man under circumstances such as these. Not an hicident occurred to relieve for a moment the dull monotony of our unprolital»le detention." — 1*. 98. Half the month of September had now slipped away, " and we were held still within sight of tlu^ same land, as if it were in the grasp of a giant :" a grasp which, from this time for eight or ten months to come, was as obsti- nately and firmly fixed as that of the Old Man of the Sea on the shoulders of Sindbad tht^ Sailor. That sam(* land was Cape Comfort, which Hack had but too much reason to call " a most inappropriate iiann^ ;" ior, helpless as the BJiip was, wedged in betwj'en blocks of ice, and driv(>n Olio day on one side uud the next on tho other of tho ,■ !f 331 ARCTIC VOYAGEd. U' !. .Ill .1 r 1 • ■■'f ' / ;» y I t f,|i; > If , . ;, I 1 iil Cfipo of this ol)noxi()US name, nnd somotimes within tlireo or four miles of it, ho hud roason to apprehend the worst cons(ujuences. For tlie whole of September, in fact, he was whirled about from Cape Comfort to Capo Bylof and Baftin's Island, and back nj^ain ; and during all this whirling backward and forward, just as the wind, or the current, or the tide directed, his case was almost hopeless. Seeing the growing peril of his situation. Captain Back took the o))inion of his olTicers as to the probability of any farther progi'ess being niado that season to Repulse Bay : their unanimous convic- tion, from the expe7ience of the tiiirty-four days in which the ship had been beset, was, that any thing moro with that view was utterly impracticable ; and they suggc^sted the adoption of certain precautions in tho event of their being obliged to have recourse to tho boats for safety. It was now pretty obvious that there was but small chance for any escape from the " giant" for nine or ten months to come, and Back therefore made up his u»'.id to cut a dock in a favorable large Hoo, which the ice- mato told him was the only one sufficiently strong for tho purpose, and that the ship would be protected as long as it held together. Fortunately, however, the very next day a general commotion took ])lace, when t\w whole body of ice separated into single masses, tossed into lieaps, or ground into powder, and crushed every thing that opposed them, rushing violently to tho westward, directly up the Froztm Strait ; and tlius ended for a time the projected lloating dock, the (loo having wholly disappeared ; but others soon supplied its })lace, and the Terror was as fast as ever, without tho labor of digging a dock. " Thus," says Back, " ended a month of vexation, disappointment, and anxiety, to mo personally more distressing and intolerable than the worst pressure of tho worst evils which had befallen me in any other expedition." The month of November having commenced, it be- came necessary to sot about a warming apparatus for the ship ; but the experiment woefully failed. They were still off Ca|)e Comfort, and so near the shore that the people strolled over the ice to it; and liieutenunt Stuu- !. I BACK S ATTEMPT TO REACH REPULSE BAY. 335 mes within > nppreliond .Se|)ttMnl)er, Coiulort to n^uin ; and iird, just as id, his cfiso peril of his his olTicors being niado nus convio- ur (lays in thing nioro and th(^y ons in tho jrso to tho I but small nine or ton p his ip.id ii the ice- strong for otected as vever, the ace, when e masses, d crushed itly to tho and tlius tho floo pplied its thout tlm ended a y, to mo than the befallen ed, it be- us for the loy were that the uit iS tail- ley went to survey a harbor, which ho found a mile and a half long, by half a mile broad, and to which was giv- en the name of Smyth's Harbor. On tho 14th, tho pack which had hurried them about liad taken them, accord- ing to Lieutenant Stanley's measurement, within 3()50 yards of the inaccessible cliffs of Tape Comfort, on which there was refison to apprehend that the ice might strike, break up, and wreck the ship ; but she rest«>d se- cure on her icy cradle, where she lay passively boforo tho Cojnfortable Cape. On tho '^Ist of November, in order to fix the minds of the crew on some obji^ct for omployment. Back ordered them to build up snow walls and galleries on the (loe ; and these being for the com- fort of all, the work was cheorfully undertaken, and the exercise had a beneficial effect on their liealth. They may now bo considered to have taken up tlieir long winter quarters, of nine months at least, cm a float- ing floe of ice ; and Back, wisely recollecting the exam- ple of Parry, with tho same view induced the officers to assist him in contriving some amusement for the men. They cheerfully assisted, and the farce of Monsieur Ton- son was got up. It was ushered in with an appropriate prologue by Lieutenant Smyth, and set off with scen- oiy by the brush of that accomplished artist ; and tho piece is stated to have gone off with hearty laughter, plentiful plaudits, and at the conclusion with three hearty cheers. This is as it ought to be ; and so is the even- ing school instituted under the superintendence of Lieu- tenant Smyth, and »)CcasionalIy visited by Back. About two months before this, say about the middle of Ocvober, Captain Back gave his ship's company a veiy unfavorable character, which cheerfulness and occupa- tion would seem to have had the effect of reforming : in point of fact, they were mostly undisciplined colliers, and almost equally undisciplined whale fishermen ; he liad only a few " men-of-war men," '' who were worth the whole together." " The want of discipline and attention to personal comfort wore most conapicuous ; and though tho wholesomr n-irula- lions practiced in his miijesty's service were most ritridly at- tended to in tho Terror, yo£ such was the imsociiibility, tliough without any ill will, that it was only by a steady aud i 330 ARCTIC VOYAGE3. *i I I !'! "11 ■• I , Hi' ■uiidi'vintinir RVHtrm piirsnod by tlic first lioutonant tliat tlicy were hnm^ht, iil nil toi^etlicr with tli(* freliiigrt (if iiiessin;ili's. .... KecipnK'ity of kindness, a generous iiud sclf-dciiv- iii'{ disposition, n, spirit of frankness, a hearty and above- board manner — these are the true characteristics of the lirit- ish seamen; and the want of these is seldom compensated by other (jualities. In our case — and I mention this merely to f«how the ditference of olden and modern times — then; •were only three or four in the ship who could not write ; all read ; some recited whole pages of poetry ; others sang French songs ; yet with all this, had they been h'ff to them- Belves, I verily believe a more unsociable, 8usj)icious, and un- comfortiible set of people could not have been found. Oh ! if the two an.' incompatibl(>, givt* me the old .hick Tiir, who wouhl stand up for ids ship, and give his life fur his mess- mate."— I'. I2li, 1^9. Tho Wi'ather and their situntion were such now as to bring; even these rei)n»biites to their senses : tiie ther- mometer WHS at — .5.'}'^, making the ra])id extraction of heat beyond endtirance, and causing the fnces to be frost- bitten ; and the fireplaces were so ill contrived as to af- ford no salutary heat; they created, mor(H)ver, " a fetid and impure atmosphere, that lurked in the lower parts of the deck :" all the while tho 'Perror was tossing about on a tield of ice, twelve or fourteen miles to tho east- ward of that detestable Cape C^omfort. Under such comforts, the want of cheerfulness ainoiig such persons is not to be wonde:red at ; but it may also have arisen, as IJack suggests, from tludr never having been suhject to tho salutary inlluenco of naval discipline. " It was in vain," ho says, " we endeavored to lead them into the wholesome habit of amusing themselves with games or dancing, to cheer their spirits, and while away the long hours of our winter evenings." Oil the 11th of Jamiary they found tho Terror had been carried upon her ice-wagon to within throe miles of Hidge Clilf, which would appear to bo at the entrance of Stanley Harbor, about thirty miles to the southward of the interminabh^ Capo Comfort. In Februarj- tho cold was intense; the thermometer descended to — .')4^ ; sevoral wore on the sick-list, and Mr. Donaldson, a gun- ner, who had served with Parry, died. Well might Back begin to feel uncomfortable : " tho eight months Mi J\'\i BACK'd ATTEMl'T To KEACll REl'LLriii UAV. ^37 that tln-y <'ssin;itcs. i*<'If-(li'nv- 1(1 Ill)f»V(!- tlic HriN ipt'iisiiti'd is niiTcly t's — then! vriu- ; all lers 8!ing f to tlu'in- H, and tni- ml. Oh ! Tar, who hid luess- 10 w as to tho tlior- ictioii of bo trost- as to nf- " 11 fotid vor parts ing about ho oast- lor such . porsous iriseu, ns iibjoct to was in into tho amos or tho long rror had 36 niilos pntrancB ithward arj' the —54^ ; , a ^nn- 1 niisiht months sinco wo left Mniiland sconiod lonycM" than any thrco yoars of my formor not nnadv«»ntnroiis hfo ; days wt-ro WfokiiJ, weoks month;*, m(»nths ahnost y»'ar.s." Hot tho worst was yet to como, and hut just conunoncinji : an oponinj]; in tho floo was obsorvod within forty paciis of tin' slhp ; "Ji most unpromisinj,' si^lil, foliowtnl by iniui- morablo cracl^s." wliicli loft no doubt " that tho bulwark of our sociu'ity had \wen shattorod." It still hold toiii'thor for throe or four days, and, cra/y as it was, carried them within si^ht of S«'a-horse Point, the southern extromo of Southampton Island, when, on tho IHth »)f February, tin; crashinuof tlu; ice at the east- ern odgo of tho floo was alarmingly loud, followed by a hoarse rushing sound, and several severe shocks against tho shi|) ; and it is added, "the rent in tho ico now formed one contiimous lino of reparation, directly through tlio contor on which tho ship was mounted." " Th iiei- crack fore and aft with hideous rr«'akin^, tliat for some seconds held us in suspet)se for the result." It would appear, however, from the continued cnick- ini; of the ship when the ice was still, and (Voni lier he- inj; lifted hodilvi in nno of tlicse commotions, einliteen inches, that she had still the hase of tho floe to rest upon ; and thounh frecpuMitly "squeezed" and repeatedly " nipped," she was at intervals jerked up " from the ])ressuro underneath, with a ^roan each time from tho Woodwork." 'riu^ endurinj; Terror continiu'd day after day to receive this kind of treatment without any in- croasinj; |eaknff, imd (•r<'nkiiiu', n n'sult." «mI cnick- II licr hr- j'iizhtJM'ii 'st upon ; •jifatcdly tVoiii the iVoin \\w day alt or 1 any in- wus still JO 1st of I i<'(? un- tlxT side, tho sliij) ction :" ii o Cireen- und onii- vas bonio ^s whore, lilinc; logs 1, when u the day, iselves by men and Women Irom blockH ofMiiow, with little boys in huts and trowsers, and de|i(»sitin>i them on a sniootli pieci' ot' solid ici' clin^in^ to the slii|» tor exhibition : thus the b::ht- iieartfd crew, in tlie tiist moment that the ti'an(|nillity ot' the ice and tln^ retnrnin<; warmlh of tht; Htin permitted, nronsed themselves to iiiilnliie in a little ;.'ayety, and at once to l'or;iet past danners. This state ot" tran(|nillity, however, WHS but ol" short duration: other concussions, and ^M"oanini:s and tremblings, some of them more se- vere and threatening than before, were renewed and lonn continued : the ship's condition will be best de- Hcribed in Captai.i ISacUVs own words : " ( )ii the null >>( .March aiiotliiT riisli drove irrcHistibly oii till- JMrbuanl (jiiiutrr and sli-ra, aiiiJ I'urcin^' tiic siilp alitud, raisi'd iit-r np on the ice. A ( liaiitic ruin lullMwcd : oiu' |i(ior and cbcrisbi'd cmirtyaid, its wall and irclied doors, ^'allcry, and wcll-trnddi'ii patJM, were rent, ami, in hoi/h- jiarts, plon^'hcd up like dii->t. The slii[t was careened fully lour Htreaks, and spnint,' aleak as before. Scarcely were ten min- utes left us for the expressiuii of our astonisliiiient that any tbiiii^' of biiiuan biiiltl could outlive sncli assaults, when anoth- er e(|iially violent rush succeeded ; anil in it.s way to the star- board tpiarter, threw up a rollinLf wave thirty feet biu'li, i-ntwned by a blue stjiiare mass ctf many tons, resemldin^ tlio entire siiU; of a house, which, after lian^'ini,' ti)r some time iti donbttiil poise on the ridi,'e, at lenirfh tell with a crash into the hollow, in which, as in a cavern, the alter |)art of the slii[» Heenied embedded. 'J'he poor ship cracketl and trembled violently ; and lat one cnuld say that the next minute wonhl not be her last, aial, indeed, bis own too, for with her oiu* means of safety would probably perish." — 1'. '2110. On consultinj; hi.s officers, they aj^reod that n liinlit I)oat, with provisions, should, if possible, be landed [on the ice], to .starve us a last r«'sourct? to connnunicate with the Hudson's Hay Company's factory in the event of the loss ot" tho ship, un ovent that might happen ut any moment. *' We were in nioinontary expectation of seeinj? the two re- mainiug tloe-pieces, (>n which we were partly poised, separate, so as to allow the ship to settle int<» the water, especially ^vhen the fiuter portion of the cracked Hoe, on the starboard hide, suddenly parted Irom its better half, and glided mysteri- ously away amonLT the still ruiri-'ed but looser fra^micnts near. JJut when our favmule lookout, which wc hatl jestinj:ly de- «. *i a '!' /§ !i ' ¥ I 310 ARCTIC VOYACJliS. iiumiiiJitrd Mount ririisaiit. tlic tiiltlil'iil i-oriipaiiiou of mir \\ .'iimIi'i iiiL's ri'iiiii ( 'ii|>c IJyIiit to tliis >\»)t, slam li arid iiii>liakiri .'iiiiiil tilt' ciasli and ruin wliicli liad .--uironudi'd it — wlicu this too di'|iart(Ml. and hfcauK- lust anlinL:i<;>lial>l(' anum^ oilier |>i'aUs and lnunuincs, what citnld we look for hut iiii nt- h'V drsolatidii III' all the parts ol' our sysfrni /" — J*. 'M)\. Still tiicy miiaiiit'd tiriri iis ii locU : tli<> sides of llin icy cradlo hud dcparti-d, hut tli«'. foundation rcnmiiird jiiid ciirrit'd its hiirdcn aloiii; with it iit phsisiirij. ( )n ihf lotli of April, hcinjf nciir Sir .lames (iordon'H I>iiy, Avhich is dose to Sea-iiorse Point, they were met hy rising waves of ice rolliiiu: their hurdens toward the sliip. '•()iie liad reared itself thiily feet on onr inner (loe- pece, which, stron:; as it was, yave way under tli«^ ac- <:!mMlate.d weij^ht ; and a mass of several tons heiui; I ins upturned and added to tin; oriji^iiuil hulk, the wholu Ijore down slowly upon om* (juart«'r." '•The ship heiscll" was liii^'h out of the water, on tlie ice, but (his overto|t|><-d her like a tower. Me.-m lime wt- wci») {.'ctliiig nearer au!iy, >!•(• mt't by I'd tlu' sliij). illlHT llof- htv tlir ac- tons hriii^ , llio wholo , on the ice, inu wr wem ' r'.'iits wt'i'o cjirli sidr of I •It", l)Ct.'ilIl to (trc diuk and I piini|)s; tlio I and, tlioiiult ilitiM, tin- ilt- }[' the Itoats t have hern had not an isis, hy siid- irresUny llio l*oint, hilt teen miles iill Islands. *' it was ir as rouid iiad lor SI) Ir, the sliip licles wero |r»'stow(!d. hnjj;ering Iniai'ino. lo tlio ico back's attempt to reach repilse ray. 311 reninined eompaet, and not a drop of wafer to ho setily ou deck, and joined in the ciieers of the officjMs and men, who, dispersed on dill'erent pieces of ice, took this si^- niticant method of expressing tlieir feelinjis : it whs ii sii^ht not to be forgotten." For three or t"our ol the acim)ri)jcctiiig IVum Uic muUl buily iitiijvf it, r V ■ik 312 ARCTIC VOYAGES. r ■ M ii^ • ! 1 > I .1 • of ico, nftnr a prnvio'is month's sinore oxortions on llio part of iImj oirici-rs and men to cxtricat** hor, so loiiij as sails and warps wen; of any avail — surh a caso, it may confuloiitly bo repcatod, has no ijarallcl. To pass a winter auioni; ico in a ship firmly fixed in a hnrlior or clos(? to the shore, quiiitly and without hard labor on tho part of tho men, and with all thoir comforts about them, iiiis not beoii found disaj^rocsibU? ; but to winter in a ship which for ton lonj; months was tossed about amid inter- minable ico in liie widcj octMin, alwuys in motion, and unctiasinjily threatened to bo crushed to atoms, when every soul on boaid must inevitably have j)erished — such a ciLse can not Ijo conKunplatiul without th»^ stroniiest feelin/jfs of compassion for the helpless sufferers. And it is highly credit !il)I(! and most praiseworthy to olFicers and nuMi, and more particularly to the former, that by tlnur st(!ady and unj-epinin^ conduct they prevtMited de- spondency from seiy,in;ood humor, not to say cheerfulness, of Captain Back, and tin unretnittaij; <'x- eitions oi' Lieutenant (now Captain) Smyth, are abovo }jJl praise. Nothina; now was left but to f^et home as speedily as tliey could with tin; '' cni/y, broken, and leaky" Terror, which they suc(;oeded in brin^iii^ safely to Lou,i!;h S willy. " Thus ended," says Captain JJack, " an expe- «lition from which, hud it been permitted to n^ach its j)ort of disemburcation, it was reasonable^ to expect tho full accomplishment of its objcnits. Unconti'ollable cir- cumstan(;«'S prevented it. The problem itself wiiich it was intended to solve remains unaltered." Not (juite so. Jn the two years following;, the principal part of it was solved by two ollicers (»f the Hudson's Hay Com- j)any. Captain Back says that the sejuson was so l>ad that tlie Hudson's I'ay sliip of that year was obliged to return without (Mimpletiiii: her voya<;e. It is t(» bo ln)ped, liowever, that after the inu'assin^ dilhcultii'.s ex- perienced by Sir Kdwaivl I'arry, and the failure of Caj)- fain :ar6 \.\VM\-\V.). My Thomas Simisun, Ksq. TIavino put on record tlu^ titln of'llu' narrative^ of th'iM sccoixl voyum', tonetluT with tho multifarious personal •lisliiK'tiotis, iVc, Juiy furtlu^r notice of the " Narrativo" of ( 'aptain John Koss (as lie is simply described in th« Report of rh«' Se|e<'l C'onnnittee) will he dispensod with, mainly for tho reason that the " second voyage" was w private specidati(»n, not authorized l»y any branch iif the government, and that the report of a committee of the House of Commons prec«'ded its publication : it may therefore bci supposed to contain the* substance of the most material points in tlui " Nairative," and on tliat ac- count the only notice of it will bo conlinod to the pro- ceediuj^s of this committee. lit'sides, the title-|)ai^e of th(i I)ook ^iv(>s no encouraf a northwest passage, which Captaiti John Iloss repu- diates, thoujih, with his usual consistency, lie announces his book to be th(^ " Narrativ<( of a \' oyni^e in Snirrli of a North w<'st Passage." And this he still aiuiounces (iff(r the followinji (pi(>stions and his answers, on examination before the conmiittee, had been published : " Do you conceive tliat any fartlier ntlenipl to discover the Northwest I'iLssage would i»e attended with t,'i'eat daager?" Captain Uuss says, " 1 ilo." '. b f\ \o r/Ii jrrst e'oiiK (hi- I.SS,C.li., ivy. on to thu >ss, R.S. i. '^fUli of /)/ Amrr- »SON, Vm\. ,'{' of" tlii^* personal anativo" i>(l in tho sod with, e" WHS )i ell of tho •0 of rho ; it may 'C of tlio I that ac- tlio \)YU- lio si'urch i»ss ivpu- iinoniircs uircJt of II |cos after lUiitiation ■r tlio |i('(IV( MISCELLANEOUS. 3t5 " And if puccpssful, would it bo utteudrd with any pubUo bonclit ? '• I li(.'lii'v«^ it would 1k' ntfrrh/ usrlcus.''' A fai'tiuM* question niiiiht lioro proporly onouj^h havo, boon put, but was not : '* Thou why did you },'o in soarcli of a tliinj^ so utterly usolcss, and attended with so iiuu-h daiiiior .'" And now (havinji assitiuod r for tho out lit of tlm said vessel. It may jXMhaps, at first, hav(» worn tho aj)- pearancn, from the profoimd secrecy with which it wha (lesir(ul by tlui contributor to bc^ conduct«'d, of havin<; ori<;iiiate hoped that tho expcM-tations of both have Ixmmi satisfied; r>or will they bo considercid by ar)y one as mis- phced, the one l)eing a remuneration for his long suller- ings and aiixieties, the other for liis disinterested and numiticont giMKO'osity. '^riie history of tho undertaking i.s a short one, and told by tlu^ parties tlKMUselves to tho committee mov«id for by Mr. ('utier Fergusson, a Scotch Uiomber of Parlia- ment, tim obj(>ct Iw'ieg to ol)tain for (.'aptaiu lloss tluj sum of £5000 as a compensation for tho expenses in- curred f)y him, aniounting to betwei^n C'JOOO and C.';000, anil in consideration, it may bo suppo>od, of hiv, sulfer- ings : a sum wliich would at once ha^o been awarded by tlie Houses of Commons, an*! thus liavo spared a great deid of nonsense in the ccMumilleo, as will bo seen in tho few extracts that will Ijero bo produced. Wo have, f (. 31G AACTIC VOYAGES. »l ' ' ' M I ( !■' '■ i 1, ■ >f ) first, tlin liistory of tlio ex|K)(litJon, which is doubtless th«! true (»ii«5. Ciiptuiii Koss cxninirif'd : " Wliaf w.'w tho iiiduconient to you to imdortako this last t'X])«'(liti()ii 7 " Wlif'ii his niiij«'Hty lK'(%iin(> lord-lii^'h-adiiiiral I Sf.-nt in my propositions, and afterward apiiii to Lord Mclviilf, wlicti ho l»c(ain(> ayain first lord of tht; Admiralty: 1 n-ceived an uiiHvvcr that they did not inti'nd to pursuo -t any luoro. " What was tho cos* of th»^ expedition? " Tlio cost of tho expedition was £17,000 to Mr. Booth and .£:H)()0 to mo. " Did your men express themselves satisfied with what had been done to them i>y the Admiralty ? " Kvery ono of them; they all rejoiced that tho Admiralty liad heliaved so well to them." [The Admiralty f^'avo thein iloidde fidl-})ay till they abandoned tho ship, and full pay af- terward, in all £45IJ0.] Mr. Felix Booth oxainined : " I'erhaps you will have no objeetion to state the circum- stances wliieh induced you first to undertake tho charge of the enterjiris(! which Cai)tain Ross commanded .' " Not in the li-ast. 1 had known Captain Ross for Romo years, and I luidertook it for tho credit of the country and to s"rve Captain Ross, thinkini:; that ho wiis slif.'ht<;d in his for- mer expedition ; thut there was a cloud hanpng over him, ami tliat ho was anxious of an opportunity of going out again. I felt interested that all discovt^ries should be made by our countrymen. He said ho should very much like to go out again, and thought he could do it at a small expense. 1 said, ' Well, then, put Jown, and let me see what you call a small expense.' He afterward brought me a [taper, making it about £10,000. I said, 'Well, I should have no object'on to ad- vance £10,000, if that would b»> tho utmost sum rerjuired ;' Init I said, ' I will not engag<* in it, because there is £~0,0!H) reward for any person who shall discover the jjossago, and it would look very much as though I had an object in view.' " About a twelvemonth alter he camo to me, and said, ' Now it is all over; tho rewanl is don" tho other. Jf, as Mr. iiooth states, (.'a|)taiii Hoss lelt a cloud was hang;infi; over him on account of ill-na- tured reports, and, nioreovor, felt liiinself slighted, lio certainly took the most proper metliod of silencing them, hy going out once more to the same spot where he hud nti(h)ijbledly failed on the former expedition ; hut tho slight ho received must b»< imaginary, for ho was pro- nu)»ed to the rank of captain immediately after his re- turn irom a low months' voyaj;o of pleasure, for so it may \m called. Captain Ross has since endeavored to expiate the fault imputed to him by a second expedition, though a private one, in which, however, he has com- mitted some grave g^ographical errors, and made somo other very absurd observations, into which ho was incau- tiously led by injudicious and not very appropriate (|ues- tions ofthe committee. The money being j)romptly finllicoming, a ship called th(! Victory was jjurchased, and fitted out with steam-en- gine and paddle-wlu'ols, which turned out, as Koss, pro- fessing to be a good nu'chanic, ought to have fon'seen, a piM'petual and harassing encumbrance. 'rh(> manning of this Vi!ssel consisted of himself. Commander Janu's Ross, Mr. M'Diarmid, surgeon, Mr. '^i'hom, piuser, and a crew of nineteen men, niaking in all twenty-three persons. They left Kngland in Tune, 1*^09, reached Davis's Strait in .lidy, and Lancaster Sound in August; found no im- pediment in proceeding to the western side of Prince Regent's InU^t, and from that side t(» tho beach whero the Fuiy was wn^ckecl, but no appearance of tlu^ vessel, having either gone tti pieces «»r gom^ to the bottom. 'JMie tent-poles, however, were still standing, and vast heaps of casks, cases, and canisters Avere observed to l)e piled uj) : and, on landing, all found to l)«^ entire, 'i'lie \'ic- toiy was therefore moored, in order to put on board h(?r /IS much bread, (lour, wine, spirits, sugar, cocoa. &c., ( I i I 1 \ ■) f n !ll! M ■» i I 11. U" i 318 ARCTIC VOYAGES. as slio could stow, Jiftor wliicli tlio lionp is said to linvo htii'u scjircj^y diminislKMl. 'I'lioro is soiim roiison to hc- liovo that this precious deposit of stores was one parent causo ot" Moss liaviiij; tal\on this route, thouj^li he told thc^ coinniittee it was in seanii of what had been af^itated tho \..st "JOO years, and also that the object was to decido whether th»!re was that j)assji<;o, to which (Japtains Par- ry and Franklin iiad devoted their attention. IJut Ikj ineorover told the conimittee, " I should not have hecMi justifii'd in ^oiuji; if I had not known tliat tlio stores of the Fuiy woro in Prince Ret^ ri^ht to point out that the committee, in their report, have been j^rossly misled in statinj:, amonj^ \ho ^I'eat public services which Ross has pci'lbi'med, "tlie demonstration that one |)assage, which had been consid- ere(l by preceding navigators to be one of the most like- ly to k'ad from the Atlantic to the Pacilic ( )cean, dix^s not twist. "^ Now what was this demonstration ? They liad asked him if he conceived he had asciM'tained the fact tJuit no practical)l(> conujiunication existed between the Atlantic and Pacilic Ocean, and he replies, "Posi- tively to the soutliward of the 74th degn^o :" and he far- ther takes occasion to tell them, " \V^) established L(*ct>rtained that; in two years, in June, 1D30, and the end of May, l!i:3l. " The observations made at two ditfereut times both led you to the .same result? " Yes. " Have you any doubt ujmn that? " Mot at all ; I measured it with the theodolite in tho usual way; the process becomes v«'ry simple, and incapable uf er- ror t(» thosi' who nndcrsldiul it. "There is a ditference, is there not, in the altitude of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans on the east and west sides of tho Isthmus of Darieii? " 1 have heard there is, find the Red St^a and the Mediter- ranean alst); there is eight feet rise and fall of tide on those ist/iiinisis, and only fourteen inches on the west side; I tried that at the time; 1 broke a hole in the ice for the purpose." Captain Ross nuist hero have been sadly bewildered, wliich caused him to talk unintelligible nonsense. Tlio imnnber who put tlio question did not ask for explana- tion, but for a simple fact, lie appeared, indeed, to bo Jiimsolf somewhat in tho dark. Had ho considtod hi.s Arrowsmitli, he. would liavo foutid tliat tho istlunus of JJarion has neither cant nor ttxst sides — they an? north ,1^ i f il it fl i i iU :,'^'i, ..M 'I I S5() ARCTIC VUYAGKrf. and sfiutli. Tliosf istliniusfs in t1i(^ Ixrd S(>h nrid iNTj'il- itrrniiicait nr the I'olar Sea, and are, of course, on the Bumo lovel. ? I 'h'J ^ IVIIHCKLLAXEUUs!. 351 and MimI- of litHttll- tid of llid I Jstliitiiis n* is thir- u'lirs very Daririi." n Hutislit'd )l<' ill tliii lilt (it'tiu^ ul, throw tor ] rij;lit mid ■ coiitiricnl aiiiiiig tlio no nioiitlis ion would U this mo- .si'ertiiint'd liirh liavo iiiv»' niiido who may i" of the 11 ]}()()tii- to North )j)(Mirs hy 1CS not ex- sntistiod, vi no such by a nuvi- diii^ j)}ist le propter % that tiio [jaucustor so. on the Next iiftor this hu'id (h'monstration, if ronmiiis to ho rxpIniiH'd hy what process he utterly deMiolisiies the Northwest i'assaiie. It has already heen noticed that ('a|>lain Koss conceivt'il any farther atttniipts to discover the N(»rthw»'sf j*assai:c would he very daiigt'n)us, and, if successful, would ht; utterly useless. Ivoss was asked : "The indications that were rchcd upon in tlu; l»e^iruiin{» of tlicso voya,i.'e.s of dis(!overy, as t<» leailiiii,' to tlie cunclusiou that a passage mi^'ht he fotnid, have f(tt;illv iiiilud \ " Tliey hav(( heen totally disproved." Coniinaii(hu" James Koss : " What was your expi-ritjiice in former voyages? " 1 had h»M'n in (ive former expeditions, aiul had heen en- gn^'ed ahont tt.-n yi-ars in those seas. " Did you, in fact, accompany all the preceding .\rctic ox- 2>oditions hciit to those seas on discovery ? " I accompanied all tlio rocent expeilitions sent to those seas on disc(n<;ry. " On how many of them had CapUiin Ross lioen? " Only on the first. " How many summers have you j)assod on those seas? '' Fourte»Mi Hiunmerrt, and eiiiht winters. " You do not think tin; voyage has furnished any conclusion against the existence of a northwest pjissage \ *' No; it has injule it still inort» certain than it was heforo that a northwest passage must exist. *' Upon what ohservations made in the last voyage do you ground that o[»inion ? " From the additional portion of the outline of the ciMiti- nent of America (explored on this occasion, on the eastern coast of Am '^^ ^ A ^ 1.0 If 1° iiii i.l la IM ;j]!I2.2 1^ IIHO 2.0 1.8 1-25 1.4 1 1.6 1 ■« 6" »• if ll s w '^ ^l e". e:. o / /A Photographic Sciences Corporation # ^ V :\ \ % .V <^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 IP t % ■ ih :> % > • , . • r 352 ARCTIC VOYAGES. n I f: " Do yoii consider that tlio clof»ijif]j up of rriuce Ri'ircnt'.s Inlf'l iiJirrows tlic raiigo within wiiich a uortliwest jia-ssayo may he IduikI within a short compass / " It only narrows it l)y one of the openings. " Docs it iijirrow tlie opening to something above 74 de- grees nortli latitu(l<^ ? " There are several opcniings from tht^ end of Lancaster kSoiiud. rrinc(> Regent's Inlet was one of them: ])y closing that, h(? has removed one (jf tiie prol.>:.l)I<' means of getting to the westward ; but there are three still open. " Will you specify their njinies ? " One is going out l)y the Wellington Channel to the north- wesf ; another ])roeeeding by Melville Island; and tin- tliiid would be by getting to tin; southwest after ])assing tlie c;ipe, which Cajitain Ross supposes [asserts] to I)e the noi'thern ex- treme of America, toward the shore laid down by Franklin and Ricliardson. ** Do you consider tbat the closing of the most southerly outlet closes that supposed to be most likely to be jiracticable? "No; for that is not the route I should have taken if em- ploy(id on that service." Nothinj^ farther need be said on Captain Ross's opin- ions regarding a northwest passage ; but as Connnand«'r James Koss is tlio officer who did all thiit was done, or <'()uld l)(5 done, and appears not to have been treated on this committee as he ought to have been, it may bo proper to state, briefly, an outline of what he did on this voyage, in addition to wliat has been said of him at tlio conclusion of J*arry's " Polar Voyage." The first year after reaching Felix Harbor, Com- mander Ross made five or six journeys from tho ship, of ahout a month to ten days or a fortnight each. On tho first lio discovered and crossed the Isthmus of ]Jo()thia, which joins it to a peninsula. On a future journey he ascertained it to bo fifteen miles in width, wiili a lake in the center, and five miles of land. To a question of the committee as to what part he took in tho g(H)graphical discoveries made, his reply was, " Tho wholes extent of geographical discovery is perhaps be- tween GOO and 700 miles of new land; out of that prob- ably ahout 2G0 miles wefe discovered in the ship as she ])roceeded down the coast ; the remaining 400 or 500 were discovered by myself, witii parties of three or lour men deluched IVom tho ship — expeditious that it ice R(>i:('iif'rf jovc 74 de- f Lanca^tor ; by rldsiri^ )t' getting to (t the iinrtli- 1(1 the third ig tlie CMpe, loi'theni e.\- jy Franklin it pontherly iractical)le? ikeu il" eui- oss's opin- oniinainl«'r IS done, or treated on it may bo did on this lim at tlio 3or, Coni- tlio ship, each. On thnms of ; a future I in widtli, nd. To a ook in the as, "The •rhaps bo- that proh- liip as she 00 or 500 threo or tiuus that >Hf;CLLLA\E0i;t5. 353 wore severally jilanned and conducted by nivseif." IJo also states, in rei)ly to farther questions, that observa- tions HI geology, natural history, and botanv, with the collecting of specimens, wer^^ miide by liimself, he bein. liy Tlioniiis triinp-on, Ksq. ■^F ^ii f! hi. i:*: .'irW) ARPTIC VOYAr.Efl. Gulf f»r Akkodlco : to tliis latter ])orti()n tlio notice lioro tak(!ii must he* coiilitx'd. Ill July, 1h;{!>, tiu'v ontcrcd the Coronation (iulf for t}u> second tiuK! wllh their two boats, jiassod Capo 'rurn-aifain. and, tVoni a ])oint on the continent ot" Amer- ica to tlie eastwaid of 'l'urn-ai:ain. tliey thence observed to tlie northward a larj;*! tract of land, to which they p;av(! tho nanu* of \'ictoria. either joinini^ with, or sepa- rated by a strait from, Wollaston Land. On their rc- turn they ti'aced thc^ coast of Victoria for al)ont eleven deay, into which l^llice l\iver pourinl its waters — a sti-eani descrilx'd as much larger than Copper Mine lliver; tho bordei'ini; country consistinj^ of p-ee'i tlats, little lakes, and knotty knolls. This coast still descended to the southward, Oiiden liay beiny the lowest, in latitude 07*^ 30', lon-ritude 101" 1'/. ( )n the Klih of Auyust they found tho vXmorican coast trending to tin? northeastward, and " j)i-oceede(l all day anKMig islands, so that some of the |)arty beifan to ap- pi'chend we had lost tho continent altogether." In the <'V(>ninji, however, tln^ rajjid rush of the tide and the position of Hack's River '"left no longer any room to doubt tho neighborhood of an open sea." lint Mi'. Simpson says, "I candidly acknowledge that we wen; not prei)ared to find so southerly a strait leading to tho i'stuary of tho Cr(>at Fish River (Back's), but rather expcH'ted Jb\st to double Cape Felix of Commander James Ross, toward which the coast had been latterly trending." Their ol)ject iiad been to ])roceed northerly as far as Cape Felix, and they continued in a direction along the coast which would have led them to it ; but, on finding a separation by their newly-discovered strait leading to the eastward, they entered by doubling the southern point of it, w^hieh they call Geddes ; they pro- ceeded along that coast, on a point of which Simpson landed, and found that to be Rack's Point Off/r. ^'hey entered the estuary. |)ass(Ml Point Pechell, atid ascended T li i •I'-i Mf.SCELLANROUS. 357 )tice hero I Gulf for sed Ciipo of Amer- ' oljserv(!d liirli they , or sepii- their re- nt eleven he south- to a liii'ijjo Lahyriiith Lower 'ani|)l)eir.s -!i sti'eam Liver ; tho :tle lakes, :'(! to the itude G7" iean eoast m1 all diiy ;an to a})- " In tho ^ and the room to ]Jut Mr. we W(M'(j iig to the [\t rather inniaiid(?r n latterly uoi'therly direction ) it ; hut, red strait hliui^ the hey pro- Simpson '. They nsrorided soutiiernly to Montreal rsland. on wliich they landrd near the spot where Ihick hiid eurnmped ; and under the j^uidance of iM'Kuy (one of JJack's men), they dis- covered amonii; the rocks a deposit of haijs of pemmican, chocolate, canisters of ,iiunj)o\vder. and ])ercussion caps. Tlui pennnican is said to have been " litendly (///tr," and the chocolate rotten. Some minor articles were taken possession of by the two leaders, " as memorials of our hayinu breakhisted on the identical spot where the tent of our ^^allant, thoui!;h less successful, i)recursor stood that very day five; years before." They haa thus det(M-mined the nortlun-n limits of America to the ivcst- u-anl. as far as iiack's Estuary ; it still remained a ques- tion whether some part of J5oothia might not be united to the contiiKMit on the eastf.rn side of the estuary. Doublinji, therefore, its eastern j)romont()ry. they passed a point of tin; continent which they nanuMi C!i])e IJritan- nia, and another called Cape Selkirk; and proceedintr toward some islands in the (4idf of Akkoolee, so far as to satisfy themselves that they were to the (eastward of any part of iJoothia, they beo;iui to consider that the time of the year made their return expedient. Whereupon they connnenced pr(!j)aring their boats at this tlieir farthrk advance, and took tin' same route back, with this diller- ence, that in passina; Simpson's new strait they nov, coasted it on tho northern side, and desi<,niated the W(>st- ern enti'ance cape, on that side, by the name of Ilerschel, where they erected a cairn, with the date 'J'Jth of Au- gust, 1839. The strait was tln^re ten miles in width, and much more at the entrance near to IJack's Estuary ; at one place, about the middle, it was only thn ; miles! and its depth from thirteen to sixteen fathoms. Mr. Simpson gives some observations on the dip of the magnetic needle. He says, when the Magnetic Pole bore from them N. 7^ E. 105 miles, the dip was 89^ 29' 33" ; when N.N.E. 90 miles, it was 89^ 28' 4o"; and when olf Cape IJritaimia, it had decreased to 89^' IC 40", " as might have been expected from our in- creasing distance from the Magnetic Pole." On theij- return along the coast of America, they crossed over to near Point Back — on the land of Victo- ria, and traced that shore as fai- as Point l^arrv a spiue %v 358 ARCTIC VOYAGES. 11 I! • I I .1^ of one hundred and fifty-six googrnpliical miles ; but tills land extended both to tiie east and to the west beyond these two points ; and they supposed, as before men- tioned, that a wide channel might divide the latter from Wollaston Land. Their next object was the mouth of the Copper Mine River, which they reached on the IGth of September, "after by far the longest voyage ever performed in boots on the Polar Sens, the distance we had gone not being less than 1408 geographical miles." Their account of the whole lino of the Polar Sea roast of North America, from Icy Cape to the Gulf of Akkoolee, is well worth perusing ; but it is time that th(! {)resent volume should draw to its close. The an- nexed ^mall chart contains the combined discoveries of Koss, Simpson, and Back, on that portion of the North Coast of Ame/ica opposite to, but divided from, tho southern part of the Island of Boothia (itself a portion only of North Somerset), which united must now take their place among the rrumerous clusters that crowd tho eastern part of the Polar Sea, some of them to a dis- tance northerly y et unknown. It wiU be seen by the chart that Sir James Ross thinks it not improbable, since the discovery of the land seen by Simpson, and marked on the chart " Captain James Ross's Point," that the vacant dotted space be- tween Point Scott and Cleft Mountain may be land, as he has marked it ; and also that the space between Cape Smyth and Point Scott may be a wide channel, opening into the lower part of Prince Regent's Inlet : should this be so, it will form the continuation of his rnvn strait, through which not only a single ship and boats, but whole fleets, may pass. At the same time, it must be admitted that conjectural geography is never safe : tho direction of a coast-line, or the course of a river, can only be known, and then imperfectly, to the distance of the farthest point of sight ; to aiTive at correctness, they must be traced. The object of this miscellaneous chapter, with the small chart, is to point out distinctly, and to correct, the erroneous impression which the Report of a Select Committee of the House of Commons is calculated to . 1 !<* \ M'»- Mir^CELLANEOUd. es; buttliis i^est beyond tefore inon- latter from mouth of bed on tlio ^est voyage he distance eographical Polar Sea he Gulf of 3 time that . The an- coveries of ' the North 1 from, the f a portion It now take ; crowd the m to a dis- ames Ross of the land t " Captain space be- be land, as e between le channel, (nt's Inlet : of his mvn and boats, lie, it must ever safe : a river, can iistance of tness, they , with the orrect, the a Select Iculated to 359 c.>..vey, foumlcl on the most absu.-d nonsense, given in evidence before the committee, especially that part ( t' . fro.n w nd, a conclusion is drawn that a passage d s not ..r/.Mx.tween the bottom of Prince Regent's iX and the Polar Sea, whicli has since been proved to bo >vholly mcorroct. 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Scenes, Incidents, and .Adventures in the I'acilk Ocean, or the Islands of the Australasian Seas, during the Cruise of the (Clipper Margaret Oakley, under Captain Benjamin Morrell. liy Thomas Jetlerson .lacohs. l^ino. Muslin gilt. $1 25. XXIII. ROBERTS'S EMBASSY TO SIAM, COCHIN-CHINA, &C. Embassy to tlie Eastern (Courts of Siam, Cochin-Clima, and Muscat. By E. Roberts. 8vo. .Muslin. $1 75. XXXIV. TASISTRO'S RANDOM SHOTS AND SOUTHERN BREEZES. Random Shots and Southern Breezes. By i>ouis Fitz- gerald Tasistro. 2 vols. 12mo. Muslin, f 1 50. XXXV. MACKENZIE'S YEAR IN SPAIN. A Year in Spain. By Alexander Slidell Mackenzie. 3 vols. 12mo. Muslin gilt. S2 25. XXXVI. MACKENZIE'S SPAIN REVISITED. Spain Revisited. By Alexander Slidell Mackenzie. 2 vols. 12mo. Muslin gilt. Si 75. XXXVII. MACKENZIE'S AMERICAN IN ENGLAND. The American in England. By Alexander Slidell Mac- kenzie. 2 vols. 12mo. Muslin gilt. $1.50. K\ .fl V\\ OBE. Lion of the Ih! Pa(!iti(! Ii of Cook. son. 8vo. CEAN. ifui Ocean, tlie Cruiso Benjamin ). Muslin NA, &C. liin-China, $1 75. BREEZES. .ouis Fitz- )0. ^. kenzie. 3 kenzie. 2 LAND, lidell Mac.