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Les cartss, pisnches, tsbleeux, etc., peuvent Atre fllmAs A des teux de riduction dif Mrents. Lorsque le document est trop grend pour Atre reprodult en un seul clichA, 11 est filmA A pertir de I'engle supArieur geuche, de geuche i droite, et de heut en bes, sn prsnsnt le nombre d'imsgss nAcssseire. Les diegremmes suivsnts illustrent la mAthode. ata elure. 3 )2X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 8 6 54 [Jan./>/<>88«/yM'« Raretitt. from CONCORD TO MONTREAL. I FEAR that I have not got much to say about Canada, not having seen much ; what I got by going to Canada was a cold. I left Concord, Massachu- setts, Wednesday morning, Sept. 25th, , for Quebec. Fare seven dollars there and back; distance from Boston, five hundred and ten miles ; being obliged to leave Montreal on the return as soon as Friday, Oct. 4th, or within ten days. I will not stop to tell the reader the names of my fellow-travellers; there were said to be fifteen hundred of them. I wished only to be set down in Canada, and take one honest walk there as I might in Con- cord woods of an afternoon. The coimtry was new to me beyond Fitchbiu'g. In Ashbumham and mer- ward, as we were whirled rapidly along, I noticed the woodbine (ampelopsis quin- quefolia), its leaves now changed, for the most part on dead trees, draping them like a red scarf. It was a little exciting, sug- gesting bloodshed, or at least a military life, like an epaulet or sash, as if it were dyed with the blood of the trees whose wounds it was inadequUte to stanch. For now the bloody autumn was come, and an Indian warfare was waged through the forest. These military trees appeared very numerous, for our rapid progress connected those that were even some miles apart. Does the woodbine prefer the elm? The first view of Monadnoc was obtain- ed five or six miles this side of Fitz- williara, but nearest and best at Troy and beyond. Then there were the Troy cuts and embankments. Keen-street strikes the traveller favorably, it is so wide, level, straight and long. I have heard one of ray relatives who was born and bred there, say. that you could see a cliioken run across it a mile oif. I have also l)een told that when this town was settled they laid out a street four rods wide, but at a subsequent meeting of the proprietors one rose and remarked. '' We liavc plent}^ of land, why not make the street oifiht rods wide?" and so they voted that it should be eight rods wide, and the town is known far and near for its handsome street. It was a che.ap way of swMiriii!; comfort, as well as fame, and I wisli that all now towns would take pat- ti'rn from tliis. It is best to Iii}' our plans widely in youth, for then land is cheap, and it is but too easy to contract our views afterward. Youths so laid out, with broad avenues and parks, that they may make handsome and liberal old men ! Show me a youth whose mind is like some Washington city of magnificent distances, prepared for the most remotely successful and glorious life after all, when those spaces shall be built over, and the idea of the founder be reaUzed. I trust that every New England boy will begin by laying out a Keen-street through his head, eight rods wide. I know one such Washington city of a man, whose lots as yet are only surveyed and staked out, and except a cluster of shanties here and there, onl}' the capital stands there for all structures, and any day you may see from afar his princely idea borne coachwise along the spacious but yet empty avenues. Keen is built on a remarkably large and level in- terval, like the bed of a lake, and the sur- rounding hills, which are remote from its street, must afford some good walks. The scenery of mountain towns is commonly too much crowded. A town which is built on a plain of some extent, with an open horizon, and surrounded by lulls at a distance, affords the best walks and views. As we travel north-west up the coun- try, sugar-maples, beeches, birches, hem- locks, spruce, butternuts and ash tree.s, prevail more and more. To the rapid traveller the number of elms in a town is the measure of its civility. One man in the cars has a bottle full of some liquor. The whole company smile whenever it is exhibited. I find no difficulty in con- taining myself. The Westmoreland coun- try looked attractive. I heard a passen- ger giving the very obvious derivation of this name. West-more-land, as if it were purely American, and he had made a discovery ; but I thought of " my cousin Westmoreland " in England. Every one will remeniber the approach to Bel- lows' Falls, under a high cliff which rises from the Connecticut. I was disappoint- ed in the size of the river hero ; it ap- peared shrunk to a mere mountain stream. 'J'he water was evidently very low. The rivers which we had crossed this forenoon I)ossessed more of the character of nioun- tiiin streams than those in the vicinity of Concord, and I was surpri.sed to see every- where truces of recent freshets, which had ciirried away bridges smd injured the rail- 1853.] French Almanacs for 1863. 63 Count de Thuche-bceff Claremont, ono of the most eminent and honorable sol- diers of France, relates that when he was with the army in the Peninsular, it was his duty, on the night of the 5th April (1815), to be upon the main guard, during a bi- vouac directly in front of the English troops. It was in Madrid near the Escu- rial. He made several rounds of observa- tion during the night, and having returned from these, he got down from his horse, it being after midnight, and threw him- self, enveloped in his cloak, upon a bimdle of chopped straw. But he had no sooner fal- len asleep than a vision of his mother, then in France, in a dying condition, appeared to him. He awoke under the excitement of the emotions caused by the event, but fell asleep again very soon. The apparition was repeated, though at no time was a sign made or a word spoken. lie was very much impressed by the circumstance, but as the French army soon after made a forced retreat across the mountains, the tumult of camplifo quite erased it from his mind. The bat- tle of Vittoria, on the 21st June, in which he was engaged, and the flight that fol- lowed, would have served to have dispelled all traces of it, if any had remained. But at length, when the fugitive troops had suc- ceeded in reaching the frontiers of France, he wrote a letter to his mother announc- ing his safety and return. It was a long while before he received an answer, ownng to the various movements of the soldiers, and when he did, it informed him that his " dear good mother had died during the night of the 5th and 6th of April." As to the graver instruction vouchsafed these poor destitute French readers, — de- pendent upon the Almanac, remember, for their intellectual pap, — we take the following statement, which is meant to illustrate the primitive condition of Ameri- can journalism. The writer begins by saying tliat every body knows the gigan- tic proportions of American newspapers. "These great sheets are such provinces of paper, their conductors, to fill them up, are obliged to receive and print articles re- lating to the most trivial domestic matters. Thus, it happens that the fourth page is always devoted to the private correspon- dence of diflerent citizens of the Union, who thereby effect notable economies in postage. For example : " Mr. Crawford, tailor, warns !Mr. Ed- ward Burns that he will be compelled to send the sheriff after him, if he does not call and settle his httle bill, of which a duplicate is hereunto annexed. For one cloak called a mackintosh," &c., &c. Or, "Mr. John Davis requests his friend Seathan to come and breakfast with him to-morrow morning, at, &c. Note. — He has ju,st recieved some excellent alligator from Florida." The journal fell into an error of the press, and printed Seethan for Seathan. The next day a gentleman prc^nted him- self to Mr. John Davis. " What is your Avish ?" " You have been so kind as to invite me to breakfast !" "There must be some mistake; you are not ray friend Seathan !" " I regret that ; bui. read the newspa- per, sir ; there is my name, every letter of it, — I thought perhaps that you had heard of me by chance, and desired to make my acquaintance. As I have also always professed great philanthropy, I am the friend of all the world, and conse- quently yours. It would have been con- trary to my principles to refuse your kind invitation. I dare to flatter myself, too, that my appetite is as gof)d as Mr. Sea- than's any time." Thereupon he sat down at the table and devoured the alUgator. The next day the newspaper had this paragraph. "5lr. John Davis conceives it to be his duty to put his fellow-citizens on their guard in respect to the gluttony of an individual, calling himself Mr. See- than, who introduced himself to me imder the pretext of a mistake, and eat up all my game !" A third example, " Mr. Edgar Mortimer, clerk in a store, to Miss Pamela, milliner, \vith whom he fell in love by looking at her through his glass windows. Young miss ! pardon me the liberty I take in addressing you this letter. Why strive to hide your ardent passion," &c. To which the yoimg lady replies, in the next number, " I shall be angry, sir, if you continue to trouble the peace of a sensible milliner, with your inflamed accents. You wish to compromise me ; but," &c., &c., &c. The next day a gentleman enters the store of Mr. Mortimer, reproaches him with his letters, and thrashes him with a cane. Then there is a silence for eight days. The subscribers to the news* pajKir wait impatiently for the sequel of the correspondence, conjecture a thousand things as to the cau.ses of its interruption, and renew their subscriptions." •w f I The boat. 1863.] An Excursion to Canada, 65 in the •■-!- road, though I had heard nothing of it. In Ludlow, Mount Holly, and heyond, there is intercsti. ;, mountain scenery, not rugged and stupendous, but such as you could easily ramble over — long narrow mountain vales through which to see the horizon. You are in the midst of the Green Mountains. A few more elevated blue peaks are seen from the neighborhood of Mount Holly, perhaps KilUngton Peak is one. Sometimes, as on the Western railroad, you are whirled over mountainous embankinents, from which the scared horses in the valleys appear diminished to hounds. All the hills blush ; I think that autumn must be the best season to journey over even the Green Mountains. You frequently exclaim to yourself, what red maples ! The sugar-maple is not so red. You see some of the latter with rosy spots or cheeks only, blushing on one side like fruit, while all the rest of the tree is green, proving either some partiality in the light or frosts, or some prematurity in particular branches. Tall and slender ash trees, whose foliage is turned to a dark mulberry color, are frequent. The butternut, which is a remarkably spread- ing tree, is turned completely yellow, thus proving its relation to the hickories. I was also struck by the bright yellow tints of the yellow-birch. The sugar-maple is remarkable for its clean ankle. The s;roves of these trees looked like vast ibrest sheds, their branches stopping short at a uniform height, four or five feet from the ground, like eves, as if they had been trimmed by art, so that you could look under and through the whole grove with its leafy canopy, as under a tent whoso curtain is raised. As you approach Lake CI amplain you begin to see the New-York mountains. The first view of the Lake at Vergennes is impressive, but rather from association than from any peculiarity in the scenery. It lies there so small (not appearing in that proportion to the width of the State that it docs on the map), but beautifully quiet, like a picture of the Lake of Lucerne on a music box, whore you trace the name Lucerne among the foliage ; far more ideal than ever it looked on the map. It does not say, " Here I am. Lake Champlaiu," as the conductor might for it, but having studied the geography thirty years, you crossed over a hill one afternoon and be- held it. But it is only a glimpse that you get here. At Burlington you ru.sh to a wharf and go on board a steam- boat, two hundred and thirty-two miles from Boston. We left Concord at twenty minutes before eight in the morning, and reached Biu-lington about six at night, but too late to sec the Lake. We got our first fair view of the Lake at dawn, just before reaching Plattsburg^ and saw blue ranges of mountains on either hand, in New- York, and in Vermont, the former especially grand. A few white schooners, like gulls, were seen in the distance, for it is not waste and solitary like a lake in Tartary ; but it was such a view as leaves not much to be said ; uideed I have post- poned Lake Champlain to another day. The oldest reference to these waters that I have yet seen, is in the account of Cartier's discovery and exploration of the St. Lawrence in 1535. Samuel Champlain actually discovered and paddled up the Lake in July, 1G09, eleven years before the settlement of Plymouth, accompany- mg a war-party of the Canadian Indians against the Iroquois. Ho describes the islands in it as not inliabited, although they are pleasant, on account of the con- tinual wars of the Indians, in consequence of which they withdrew from the rivers and lakes into the depths of the land, that they may not be surprised. " Con- tinuing our course," says he, "in this Lake, on the western side, viewing the country, I saw on the eastern side very high mountains, where there was more on the summit. I inquired of the savages if those places were inhabited. They replied that they were, and that they were Iroquois, and that in those places there were beauti- ful valleys and plains fertile in com, such as I have eaten in this country, with an infinity of other fruits." This is the earliest accoimt of what is now Vermont. The number of French Canadian gen- tlemen and ladies among the passengers, and the sound of the French language, advertised us by this time, that we were being whirled towards some foreign vor- tex. And now we have left House's Point, and entered the Sorel river, and passed the invisible barrier between the States and Canada. The shores of the Sorel, Richelieu or St. John's river, are flat and reedy, where I had expected something more rough and mountainoiis for a natural boundary between two nations. Yet I saw a dillerence at once, in the few huts, m the pirogues on the shore, and as it were, in the shore itself. This was an in- teresting scenery to me, and the very reeds or rushes in the shallow water, and the tree-tops in the swamps, have left a pleas- ing impression. A\"e had still a distant view behind us of two or three blue moun- tains in Vermont and New-York. About nine o'clock in the forenoon we reached St. John's, an old frontier post three hundred and six miles from Boston and twenty- four from Montreal. We now discovered that we were in a foreign coimtry, in a station-house of another nation. This M An Exeuraion to Canada. [Jan. building was a barn-liko stmcturc, looking as if it were the work of the villagers combined, like a log-house in a new set- tlcment. My attention was caught by the double advertisements in French and Eng- lish fastened to its posts, by the formality of the English, and tlie covert or open reference to their queen a' d the British lion. No gcntlemaiily conduct 'V appeared, none whom you would know to be the conductor by his dress and demeanor; but, ere long we began to see hero and there a solid, red- faced, burly-looking Eng- lishman, a little pursy perhaps, who made us ashamed of ourselves and our thin and nervous countr)rmen — a grandfatherly per- .=ionage, at home in his great-coat, who look- ed as if he might be a stage proprietor, cer- tainly a railroad director, and knew, or had a right to know when the cars did start. Then there were two or three pale-faced, black-eyed, loquacious Canadian French f^entlemen there, shrugging their shoul- ilcrs ; pitted as if they had all had the small-pox. In the meanwhile some sol- diers, red-coats, belonging to the barracks near by, were turned out to be drilled. At every important point in our route the soldiers showed themselves ready for us ; though they were evidently rather raw recruits here, they manoeuvred far better than our soldiers ; yet, as usual, I heard some Yankees speak as if they were as p;reat shakes, and they had seen the Acton IJhies manoeuvTe as well. The oilicers s{x)ke sharply to them, and appeared to bo doing their part thoroughly. I heard one, >pped ashore, with a single companion. ■fi I tllC" t;i;\-( the gon(, iiiipr phon in t tJie a stalai mom and ajid liand wortl ore eau)uc 1853.] An Excursion to Canada. 51 Iraw- five iGulf; I miles Issem- [n llie Ivgs of Vessels gun in and laleohe lin the scpa- , hur- Idcloth, len wc lonioii' I soon found my way to the church of Notro Dame. I saw that it was of great size and signified something. It is said to Iw tlie largest ecclesiastical structure in North America, and can seat ten thousand. It is two hundred and llfty-five and a half foet long, and the groined ceiling is eighty foct above your head. The Catholic arc the only churches which I have seen worth remembering, which are not almost wholly jirofanc. I do not speak only of the rich and splendid like this, but of the hum- blest of them as well. Coming from the hurrahing mob and the rattling carriages, we pushed aside the listed door of this (jhurch, and found ourselves instantly in am atmosphere which might be sacred to thought and religion, if one had any. There siat one or two women who had stolen a moment from the concerns of the day, as they were passing ; but, if there had been fifty people there, it would still have been tlie most solitary place imaginable. They did not look up at us, nor did one regard another. We walked softly down the broad-aisle with our hats in our hands. Presently came in a troop of Canadians, in their homespun, who had come to the dty in the boat with us, and one and all kneeled down in the aisle before the high fidtar to their devotions, somewhat awk- wardly, as cattle prepare to lie down, and tlicrc we left them. As if yon were to catch some farmer's sons from Marlboro', come to cattle-show, silently kneeling in Concord meeting-house some Wednesday ! AVould there not soon be a mob peeping in at the windows ? It is true, these Ro- man Catholics, priests and all, impress me as a people who have fallen far behind the signilioance of their symbols. It is as if an ox had straytd into a church and were trj'ing to bethink himself. Nevertheless, . Uiey arc capable of reverence ; but we Yankees .ire a people in whom this senti- ment has nearly died out, and in this rc- sjx'ct wc cannot bethink ourselves even as oxen. I diate, nor did the} us, and what under the sun they were placed there ibr. unless to hinder a free circulation of the air. was not appar- ent. There we saw .sohliers catinji; their breakfasts in tlieir mess room, from bare wooden tables in camp fashion. We were continually meetini: with soldiers in the streets, carryin^j; funny little tin pails of all shapes, even .semicircular, as if made to pacK convenientlv. I supposed that they contained their dinners, .so many slices ,f brciid and butter to each, per- chance. Sometimes they were carrying .some kind of military chest on a .sort of bier or hand-barrow, with a sprinsry, un- dnlatiiit!;. military step, all ])a>sengers giv- ini;' way to them, even the charette drivers stoppiuii; for them to j)ass — as if the bat- tle were being lost from an inadecpuite sujiply of ])owder. There was a regiment of Highlanders, and. a^^ I understoixl, of Koyal Irish, in the city ; and by this time tliere wjis a regiment of N'ankees also. I liad already ob.served, looking up even from tbt^ watei', the head and shoulders of .some General Poniatowsky, with an enormous cocked liat antl gim, pirriug over the roof of a house, away up where the chimney caps connnonly'are with >i.', as it were a caricature of war and military awfulne.ss ; but I had not gone far n|i Si. Louis street before my riddle was solved. by the apparition of a real live Highlander under a cocked '.lat, and with his knees out, standing and marching .sentinel on the ramparts, between St. Louis and St. John's (jlate. (It must l)e a lu)ly war that is waged there.) We stood close by without fear and looked at him. His legs were somewhat tanned, and the hair had begun to grow on them, as .some of our wi.se men predict that it will in such cases, Ijut I did not think they were renuukaltlo in any respect. Notwithstanding all liis warlike gear, when I incpiired of him the way to the Plains of Abraham, he could not answer mo without betraying .somu bashfulness through his broad Sc«>tch. Soon after, we pa.ssed another of ihese creatures standing sentry at the St. L»>uis Gate, who let us go by without shooting u.s, or even demanding the countersign. We then began to go through the gate, wliich was .so thick and tunnel-like, as to remind me of those lines in t'laudian'.s Old Man of Venma. about the getting out of the gate being the greater pait of u journey ; — as you might imagine yourself crawling through an architect lu'al vig- nette (U till' end of a black-letter volume. We were then reminded that we had been in a fortress, from which we emerged by numerous zig-zags in a ditch-like road, going a considerable distance to advance ti few rods, where they could have shot u.s two or three times over, if their minds had been dispo.sed as their guns were. The greatest, or rather the most promi- nent, part of this city was constructed • itli the design to otl'er the deadliest resist- ance to leaden and iron missiles, that might be cast against it. Hut it is a re- markable meteorological ami psychologi- cal fact, that it is raiely known to rain lead with nuich violence, e.xcejit on places .so constructed. Keeping on about a mile we came to the Plains of Abiaham, — Ibr having got through with the Saints, we come next to the Patriarchs. Here the Highland regiment was being reviewed, while the band stood on one side and jilayed. — methinks it was " La Claire Fon- taine," the national air of the Canadian French. This is the site where a real battle once took place, to connncmorale which they have had a sham light here almost every day since. The Highlanders mana'uvied veiy well, and if the pri'ci- sion of their movements was less remark- able, they did not appear so stilUy erect 182 An Excursion to Canada. [Feb. as the Enjrlish or Eoyal Irish, hut had a more elastic and graceful fiait. hke a lierd of their own red deer, or as if accustomed to steppinfr down the sides of mountains. Ihit they made a sad impression on the wliole. for it was ohvious tliat all true manhood was in the process of heinp; drill- ed out of them. I have no douht that soldiers well drilled are. as a class, pecu- liarly destitute of originality and in(lej)en- dence. The otticers appeared like men dressed ahove their condition. It is im- possiltle to give the soldier a good educa- tion, without making him a deserter. His natural foe is the government that drills him. What would any philanthrojjist, who felt an interest in these men's wel- fare, naturally do. Vmt first of all teach them so to respect themselves, that they could not he hired for this work, whatever might be the consequences to this govei'n- ment or that; — not drill a few. hut edu- cate all. I ol)served one older man among them, gray as a wharf-rat. and sujiple as an eel. marching lock-step with the rest who would have to pay for that elastic gait. AVe returned to the citadel along the heights, iilucking such llowers as grew there. There was an ahimdance of suc- cory still in hlossom. hroad-leaved golden- rod, hutter-cups, thorn-lmshes. Canada thistles, and ivy, on the very summit of Cape Diamond. 1 also found the hlad went to the Thing in Kngland, where, by the way, he won his bride. As we stood by Iho thirty-t\vo-]"oiiiider on the siiumiil ofCaiH) Diamond, which is tired three times a day, the commandant told me that it wou'Ul carrv to the Isle of Orleans, four miles distant, and that no hostile vessel could come round the island. I now saw the subterranean or. rather, "casemated bar- racks" of the soldiers, which I had not noticed before, though 1 might havo walked over them. They hail very nar- row winilow.s. serviii!; as loop-holes for mu.'^ketry. and small ii-on ••himueys ri,iiiziiig. no reason for the bare knees of the High- landers, other thau oddity. 'I'he rock within the citadel is a little comes, ,>;o that shells falling on it would roil toward the circuniference. whero the bjinaeks of the soldiers imd oflicers are ; it has l>een proposed, therefore, to make it slightly concave, so that they may roll into the centre, where they would lie comparatively harmless; and it is estimated that to do this would cost twenty thousand pounds sterling. It may be well to remember this when I build my next house, and have the roof "all correct" loi- bomb- shells. .At mid-afternoon \\t maile liasle down Sanlt (III M(ilit(it-!!iw and horse, cutting the planks into s(niiires for paving the street.s. This lodked very shil'tless. es|»ecially in a c(Hintty abound- ing in water-power, and ri'iiiiiided me that T w.'is no longer iii \ aiiKee land. I found, on in(|uiiy. that the e.vcu.se for this wa.s, that labor was so cheap; and I thought, with .some pain, how clieaji men are here ! 1 have since learned that tho I 1; ■^amimS:ii?9»'t Hi* 1 -mf^iv-tita [Feb. 1«5 ^'] An Exairsion to Canada. 183 down Kalla (Iiiwn K-av- till oil in iuid iiiid •s for vt>ry iiiiiil- nn> I. i tliia ii.l I llllOI) tho Kii"i'). and found ourselves on an excellent macadnniized road, called Le C/wmhi de Hraiipiirl. We had left Concord AVednes- day uioniing, and we endeavored to re- alize tliiiL now. I'riday morning, we were taking a walk in Canada, in tlie Seigniory ol rxiiiiport. a foreign country, which a few da\s hclore had seemeil almost as far otf as Kngland and France. Instead of ranihlMii;- t> Fiinl's Pond or the Sud- bury .Mi'iidow-;. we found our.selves. after heing a liltle detained in cars and steam- l)oats — after .-^jiending half anight at Mnr- liuglon. iiiid half a day at ^^lntreal — taking a w;ilk ilown the hank of the St, l-awreiu'c to the Falls of Montniorenci and elsewhere. Well. I thitught to my- self, here 1 am m a foreign country ; let me have mv eyes ahout me. and take it all in. It alrea)ly cheap, as well as thin, brown linen sacks" of the (»ak Hall pattern, which every summer appear all over New England, thick as the leaves upon the trees. It was a thoroughly Yan- kee costume, which .some of my lellow- travellers wore in the cars to save their coats a dusting. I wore mine, at iirst. he- cause it looked better than the coat it covered, and last, because two coats were warmer than one, though one was thin and dirt}'. I never wear my best coat on a journey, tliongh percliance I citnld show a ccrtilicate to prove that I have a more costly one. at least, at home, if that were fill that a gentleman required. It is not wise for a traveller to go dressed. I .shoidd no more think of H than of putting on a clean dicky and blacking my shoes to go a fishing ; as if yon were going out to dine, when, in fact, the genuine travel- ler is going out to work hard, and fare harder — to eat a crust I)y the? way -side whenever he can get it. Ibjiiot travel- ling is abotit as dirty work as yon can do, and a man needs a pair of overalls for it. As for blacking my .shoes in such a ca.se. I should as soon think of blacking my face. I carry a piece of tallow to ])reserve the leathei-. and keep out the water; that's all; and many an ollicious .shoe-black, who carried otf my shoes when 1 was shunbering, mistaking nic for a gentleman, has had occasion to re- pent it before he produced a glo.ss on them. I\Iy pack, in fact, was home-made, for T keep a short list of tho.se articles which, from frei|uent experience, I have founcl indisjiensable to the foot traveller ; and when I am about to start, I have only to consult that, to be sure that nothing is omitted, and. what is more important, nothing su]ierHuons inserted. Most of my fellow-travellers carried carpc t-bag.s, or valises. Sometimes one had two or three jionderous yellow valises in his clutch, at each pitch of the cars, as if we were going to have another rush for seats ; and when there was a rush in earnest, and there were not a few, 1 would see my man in the crowd, with two or three all'eL'tion- ate lusty fellows along each side of hi.s arm. between his shoulder and his vali.se.s, which last held them tight to iiis back, like the nut on the enil of a screw. I could not help asking in my mind — what so great cause for showing Canada to tho.sc vali.ses. when perhaps your very nieces had to stay at home for want of an escort .' 1 .should liave liked to hi' prc-i'iit when the custom-house oflicer came aboard of him. and asked him to declare upon his honor if he had any thing but wearing apparel in them. Even the elephant car- J. -j?i^p»'-de-Mars. to the Town Major's or the IJishop's I'alace. to the Citaik'l. witii a bare-lejified llijihland- cr for our escort, or to the IMaius of Abra- ham, to iliuiier or to lied, the (unbrella and the bundle went with us ; for we wish- ed to be ready to dip-ess at any moment. We made it our home nowhere in particu- lar, but everywhere where our umbrella aned ([uantity of hair, to protect tiiem from ilie cold. If this be true, some of our horses would make you think winter were approacliiiig. even in mid-sununer. We soon began to ,«ee women and girl>at work in tiie fields, digging )M)tatoe> alone, uilmmlliiig n)i the grain which the men cut. Tluy apjieared in rude health, with a great deal of color in their cbeek.s. and. if their occii|iation had niaile them cunrsi'. it impressed me as better in its ellects than making shirts at fniirpence a piece, or doing nothing at all ; unless it be chewing slate pencils, with still smaller results. They were much more agreeable objects, with their \Ji) be great broad-briiu«K>(l liats and flowing diesses, than tlio men and boys. We afteiward .saw tliem doing various other kinds of work ; intk'ed, I thought that we saw more women at work out of doors tiian men. On our return. weol»served in this town a girl with Indian hoot.s, nearly two leet liigli, taking the harness olf a dog. Tlie purity and Iranspurency of the atmosphere weiv wonderful. When wc ; iuid been walking an hour, we weiv sur- l)rised, on turning ronml, to ,see iiow near the city, witli its glittering tin roofs, still ' looked. A village ten miles ojf did not ,' apjuar to be more tlian three or tour. I was convinced that yt>u «'ouId .see objects distinctly iliere nuieh fartlier than iiere. It is true, tlio villages are of a dazzling' white, but the tlazzle is to be referred,- I»erhaps, to tlie Iranspari'iicy of the at- mosphere, as much as to the whitewash. . We weie now fairly in tiie vilhige of Jieauport. though there was still but one road, tiie luaise ■ stood close ui)on this, without any front-yards, and at any angle with it. as if they had dropped down, being set with nune reference to the road wliich the sun travel.s. It being about sun- down, and the Falls not (ar oil", we began to look round for a lodging, for we prefer- red to put nj) at a private house, that we might .see more »if tlie inhabitants. We iiKpiired liist at the most promising look- ing hou.ses, if indeed any were promising. A\ hen we knocked, they shouted .some French word for come in. perhaps eiilrcz, and we asked for a lodging in Knglish ; but we fount], unexpectedly, that they spoke French only. Then we went along and tried anotiier hou.se. being gene- rally saluted l)y a rusli of two or tliive little cur.s. which reailily distinguisl'.cd a foreigner, and which we were picpared now to liear Imrk in French. 'Hir first (|nestion would be. /^//7('i-|•(H/v Aiivhiifi ? but the invariable answer wan. Si»k nion- sienr ; and we soon found that the inha- bitants were e.schisively French Cana- dians, and nobody spoke F.nglish at all, any more than in France; that, in fact, we were in a foreign country, where the inha- bitants uttered not one familiar sound to us. 'J'hen we tried by turns to talk French with them, in which we succeeded some- times jiietty well, but for the most part, )iretty ill. /'(nim-roiitt nous t/oiiiier nil lit cttlr unit i we would ask. and then they would answer with French volubi- lity, .r four. I ee objects than liere. A dazzling L' referred, of the at- hitewash. vilhifre of ill but one upon this, any angle ped down, lo the road about siui- ', we begun we preler- >e. that Ave lants. We (ising look- promising, uted some :»ps oilriz, Kuglish ; that they went along 'Mig geiie- or tliive iiiiuislu'd a prepared '.»ur lirst Aiivlois? A"». niDU- Ihe iiiha- lu'li Canu- h at all, ill fact, we tlie iiilia- r Miiinil to 11% French t'd some- iiiosl part. tliiinicr nil and then ich voliibi- y a word iiiderstand dly bellcr and thus, that they 'd. his charge for busts was only from one to two hundred dollars, which is about half of what is charged by Sculptors of the present day, and of what he himself re- ceived for his late busts. The two large works for the Capitol at Washington, cost the Government, the one :it;2U,UU0, the other l(j;21,UUt). On these, to Avhich he gave his best energies during many years, he expended more money than he received. Wlien his friends complained of this, he would say. that a money-making artist could never be a great one ; and that having been honored by his countrymen with national works, ho would do his best for them. AN EXCURSION TO CANADA. Continued from page 184. SO we were compelled to inquire : Ya-fil UHi' mdison })i/.hli({ur ici ? (anhi'rgr. we .should have .said pcrliaps, for they .seemed never to liave heard of the other.) and they answered at length that there was no tavern, unless we could get lodgings at the mill, le mouliu. which we had pa.ss- ed ; or tlioy would direct us to a grocery, and almost every house had a small gro- cery at one end of it. A\'e called on the public notary or village lawyer, but he had no more beds nor Kuglish than tlie rest. At one luMise, the .; was .so good a misun- derstanding at once established through the pi>liteness of all parties, tiiat we were encouraged to walk in and sit down, and ask for a glass of water; and having (irauk their water, we thought it was as good as to l.iive tasted their .salt. When our host and his wife spoke of their ])oor accommodations, meaning for themselves, we assured them that they were good enough, for we thought that they were only apologizing for the poorness of the accommodations they were about to otl'er us, and ^ve did not discover our mistake till tho\ took us up a ladiier into a Inft. and showed to our t'yvA what they had iR'en labciriiig in vain to communicate to our brains through our ear.s. tliat they had but that one a[)arliii(.'iit with its few- beds for the whole family. We made our a-ilicus forthwith, and with gravity, perceiving the literal signification of that word. We were finally taken in at a .sort of puldic-liouse, whose master worked for Patterson, the proiivietor of the e.vtensive saw-mills driven by a portion of the Mont- morenci stolen fidiu the fall, whose roar we now heard. We here talked, or mur- dered rreiicji all tic evening, with the master <<\' die house and his family, ami probably hud a more amusing time than if we hail eompletel}- understood one another. At length they showed us to a bed in their l>est chamber, very high to get into, with a low wooden rail to it. It had no cottiMi sheets, but coar.se honie- VOL. I.— 21 made, dark colored linen ones. Aftei- waT'd. we had to do with sheets still coai' ser than these, and nearly the color of our blankets. There was a large open buffet loaded with crockery, m one corner of the room, as if to display their wealth to travellers, and pictures of scripture scenes. French. Italian, and Spanish, hung around. Our hostess came back directly to iiKpiire if we would have brandy for breakfast. The next morning, when I asked their names, she took down the tinnperance pledges of herself and hus- band, and children, which were hanging against the wall. They were Jean liap- tiste Binet. and his wife, Genevieve Binct. Jean liaptiste is the sobriquet of the Fi'ench Canadians. After breakfast we proceeded to the fall, which was within half a mile, and at this distance its rustling sound, like the wind among the leaves, filled all the air. We were disappointed to find that wl were in some measure shut out from the west side of the fall by the private grounds and fences of Patterson, who appropriates not only a part of the water for liis mill, but a still larger part of the prospect, so that we were obliged to trespass. This geiitlemaivs mansion-house iuid gi"ounds \\ere furmerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, father to Queen Victoria. It ap- peared to me in bad taste for .an indivi- dual, though. he were the father of Queen A'ictoria, to obtrude himself with his land titles, or at least his fences, on so I'emark- able a natural jihenomenon. which should, in every .sense, belong to mankind. Some falls should even lie kept sacred from the intrusion of mills and factories, as water- privileges in another than the millwright's sen.se. This small river falls |H'rpendicti- larly nearly two lumdred and fifty feet at one pitch. The St. IvawTcnce fiills only 104 feet at Niagara. It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired ; but the most that 1 coiihl say of it would only have the force of one other r 322 An Excursion to Canada. [Marcli testimony to assure tho reader that it is there. We looked directly down on it from the point of a projecting rc'ck, and saw far below us, on a low promontory, the {irass kept fresh and preen by tl)e per- (letual drizzle, looking like moss. The rock is a kind of slate, in the crevices of which giew ferns and golden-rods. Tho prevailing trees on the shores were spruce :uul arbor-vitiu, the latter very large and now full of fruit, also aspens, alders, and tho mountain ash with its l)errics. Every em- igrant who arrives in this coimtrj' by way of the St. LawTcnce, as he opens a point of the Isle of Orleans, sees the Montmo- renci tmnbling into the Great River thus magnificently in a vast white sheet, making its contribution with emphasis. Kober- val's pilot. Jean Alphonse, saw this fall thus, and described it in 1542. It is a splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in its .square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its harbor. Within the mouth of the chasm below, which can be entered only at ebb ^ tide, we had a grand view at once of Que- bec and of the fall. Kalm says that the noise of the fall is sometimes heard at Quebec, about eight miles distant, and is a sign of a north-east wind. Tho side of this chasm of soft and crumbling slate too steep to climb, was among the memorable features of the scene. In the winter of 1><29 the frozen spray of the fall descend- ing on the ice of the St. Lawrence, made a liill one hundred and twenty-six feet high. It is an annual phenomenon which some think may help explain tho forma- tion of glaciers. In the vicinity of the fall we began to notice what looked like our red-fi-uited thorn bushes, grown to the size of or- dinary api)!o-trees, very common, and full of large red or yellow fruit, which the inhabitants called pommettes, but I did not learn that they were put to any use. III. ST. ANNE. By the middle of the forenoon, though it was a rainy day, we were once more on our way down the north bank of the St. Lawrence, in a north-easterly direction, toward the Falls of St. Anne, which .are about thirty miles from Quebec. The set- tled, more level, and fertile portion of Canada East, may be described rudely as a triangle, with its apex slanting toward the north-east, about one hundred miles wide at its base, and from two to three, or even four hundred miles long, if you reckon its narrow north-eastern extreniity; it being the immediate valley of the St. Law- rence and its tributaries, rising by a single or by successive terraces toward the moun- tains on either hand. Though the words C'anauil(lin!,' on land less than one and a half ariK'nts front by thirty or forty deep, under a certain penalty, in order to com- pel emigration, and bring the seigneurs' estatos all under cultivation ; and it is thought that they have now less reluc- tance to leave the paternal roof than for- merly. " removing beyond the sight of the parish spire, or tlie sound of the parish boll." IJiit I find tliat in the previous or ITlli cont\iry, the complaint, often re- nowod, was of a totally opjKxsite character, naiiioiy, that tho inhabitants dispi'rsed and oxpotiod themselves to the Iroquois. Accordingly, about IGG4, the king was obliged to order that " they should make no more clearings except one next to another, and that they should reduce theii parishes to tho form of tho parishes in France as much as possible. The Cana- dians of tho.se days at least, possessed a roving spirit of adventure which carried them further, in exposure to hardship and danger, than ever tlie New England colo- nist went, and led them, though not to clear and colonize the wilderness, yet to range over it as couretira de boia, or runners of the woods, or as Iloutan pre- fers to call them, coureura de riaques^ runners of risks ; to say nothing of their enterprising priesthood ; and Charlevoix thinks that if the authorities had takeu the right steps to prevent the youth from ranging the woods {de courir lea boia) they would have had an excellent mili- tia to fight the Indians and English. The road, in this clayey looking soil, was exceedingly muddy in consequence of the night's rain. We met an old woman ] diivcting her dog. which was harnessed to : a little cart, to the least muddy part of the road. It was a beggarly sight. But harnessed to tho cart as he was, we heard him barking after we had pas.sed, though we looked any whore l)ut to the cart to see where the dog was that barked. The houses commonly fronted the south, what- ever angle they might make with the road ', and frequently thoy had no door nor cheerful window on the roadside. Half : the time, they stood fifteen to forty rods from the road, and there was no very ob- vious passage to them, so that you would suppose that there must be another road running by them ; they were of stone, rather coarsely mortared, but neatly white- washed, almost invariably one story high, and long in proportion to their height, with a shingled roof, the shingles being pointed, for ornaukcnt. at the eaves, like the pickets of a ionco, and also, one row half way up the roof. Tho gables sometimes project- ed a foot or two at the ridge-pole only. Yet tho}'^ wore very humble and unpre- tending dwellings. They commonly had the date of their erection on them. The windows ojK'iied in the middle, like blinds, and wore fiviiuently provided with solid shutters. Sometimes, when we walked along the back side of a hou.se, which stoml near the road, we observed stout stakes leaning against it, by which the shutters, now pushed half open, were fastened at night ; within, the houses were neatly ceiled with wood not painted. The oven was commonly out of doors, built of stone and mortar, frequently on a raised platform of planks. The cellar was often on the opposite side of the road, in front of or behind the houses, looking like an ice- house with us, with a lattice door for sum- mer. The very few mechanics whom we .,..;**• r»'i»:^;#' 324 An Excursion to Canada. [March met had an old-Hottyish look, in their aprons iind bomieta roiipes, liko fools' caps. Tlie men wore coinnionly tlie sanio bonnet rouge, or red woollen, or worsted cap. or sometinjes blue or gray, lookinj: to us as if they liud pot up with tiieir nijjht- caps on, and in fact. 1 afterwanls foinid that tliey had. Their clothes were of the cloth of the country, etojj'e du imi/if. gray or some other plain color. '1 he women looked stont, with gowns that stood out stiilly, also, for the most part, apjmrently of some home-made stulf. We also saw some specimens of the more characteristic winter dress of the Canadian, and I have since frequently detected him in New England by his coarse gray home-spun capote and picturesque red .sa.sh. and his well furred cap. made to protwt his ears against the severity of his clinnite. It drizzled all day. .so that the roads did not nnprove. We Iwgan now to meet with wooden crosses fre(iuently. by the road-side, about a dozen feet liigh. often old and toppling down, .'Sometimes stand- ing in a square wooden platfonn, .von\e- tin»f.'s in a jnle of stones, with u little niche containing a picture of tlie virgin and child, or of Christ alone, sos ^times with a string of beads, and covered with a piin^e of glass io keep out the ruin, with the words, pour la rierfi;, or Inri, on them. Freijuently, on the cros.s-bar, there would be (juile a collection of knick-knacks, looking like an Italian's l>i ;ird ; the representation in wood of !i hiimi. a hammer, .spike.s, pincers, a llask of vinegar, a ladder, &c.. the wljole IKTchance surmounted by a weatherccR-k ; but I could not look at an honest weather- (»ck in this walk, without mistrtisting that there was some covert referencv in it to St. I'eter. From time to time we pa.^sed a little o\w story chai)el-like biiilding. with a tin-roofed spire, a shrine, perhaps it would be called, close to the path-side, with a lattice door, through which we could sec an altar, and pictures al>out the walls; ecpially open, llirough rain and shine, though there was no getting into it. At these i)l!ices the inhabitants kneeled and perhaps breathed a sliort prayer. We saw one scliool-housc in our walk, and listened to the sounds which issued from it; but it appeared like a place where the jjroces.s, not of enlightening, but of obfus<'ating the mind was going on. and the pupils rtreiv- ed only so much light as could j)enetrate the shadow of the Catholic church. The churches were very picturesque, and theii- interior much more showy than the dwell- ing houses promised. They were of stone. for it was ordered in 1()'J!>, that that should be their material. They had tinned spires, and quaint ornaments. That of I'Angc Gardien had a dial on it, with the middle ago Roman numerals on \tn face, and ,somo images in niches on the outside. Probably its counterpart has existed in Normandy for a thousand years. At the church of Chateau Jlicher, which is tlie next pari.sh to I'Angc (iardien, we rtad. looking over the wall, the inscriptions in the adjacent church-yard, which began with, " Ici git " or '• 7T/wse," and one over a boy contained, •• Priez pour luV This answered a.s m'cII as Pere la t'haisc. We knocked at the door of the cure's house here, when a sleek friar-like personage, in his sacerdotal robe appeared to our Parlez- vous Anglais? Even he answered, ^- Non^ Monsieur ;" but at last we made him un- derstand what we wanted. It was to find the ruins of the old chateau. "Ah ! oui! oui!^^ he exclaimed, and donning his coat, hastened forth, and conductecl us to a .small heap of rubbish which we had al- ready examined. He said that fifteen years befon;, it was plus considerable. JSwing at that moment three little red binls riy out of a crevice in the ruins, up into an arbor-vitaj tree, which grew out of them, I asked him their names, in such French as I could nnister, but he neither understood me, nor ornithology ; he only inquired where we had appvis a parler J'Vanfais; we told him, aans Us Ktats- Unis ; and so we bowed him into his house again. I was suri)rised t«) tind a man wearing a black coat, and with ap- parently no work to do, even in that part of the world. The universal salutation from the in- habitants whom we met was bon jour, at the same time touching the hat; with bon jour, and touching your liat, you niay go smoothly through all Canada East. A little boy, meeting us woidd re- mark. '• Bon joui; Monsieur; le chemin est manrais : " Good morning, sir ; it is bad walking. Sir Francis llead says that the immigrant is forward to " appre- ciate the happiness of living in a land in which the old country's servile custom of touching the hat does not exist," but he was thinking of Canada West, of course. It woulil, indeed, be a .serious bore to be obliged to touch your hat several times a day. A Yankee has not leisure for it. We saw peas, and even beans, collected into heajis in the lields. The former are an important crop here, and. I suppose, are not so much infested by the weevil as with us. There were plenty of apples, very fair and sound, by the road-side, but they were sosnuill as "to suggest the origin ol the apple in the crab. There was also a small red fruit which they called snells, and another, also red and very acid, whose name a little boy wrote for me " pinbena." It is pi-obably the same with, or similar [March 1853.] An Excursion to Canada 325 to tlio pembina of the voyageiirs, a species of vibiirninn, which, iiccordiii^ to Ilichiinl- son, has given its name to nmny of the rivers of RuiK-rt's Land. Tlie forest trees were spruce, arbor-vita?, firs, birches, beeches, two or tliree kinds of maple, liass-vvood, wiltl-cherry, aspens, &c., but 110 pitch pines (pinus rif;ida). I saw very few, if any, trees which had been set out for shade or ornament. The water was commonly running streams or springs in the bank by the road-side, and was ex- cellent. The parishes are commonly sepa- rated by a stream, and frequently the farms. I noticed that the fields were fur- rowed or thrown into beds seven or eight feet wide to dry the soil. At the Riviere du Sault a la Puce, which, 1 suppose, means the River of the Fall of the Flea, was advertised in English, as the sportsmen are English, " the best snipe-shooting grounds," over the door of a small public-house. These words be- ing English allected me as if I had been absent now ten years from my country, and for so long had not heard the sound of my native language, and ever}' one of them was as interesting to me as if I had been a snipe-shooter, and thej' had been snipes. The prunella or self-heal, in the grass here, was an old ac(|uaintance. We fre([U('ntly saw the inhabitants washing, or cooking for their pigs, and in one [)lace hackling llax by the road-side. It was pleasant to see these usually domestic operations carried on out of doors, even in that cold country. A t twilight we reached a bridge over a little river, the boundary between Chateau Richer and St. Anne, le premier font de St. Anne, and at dark the church of La Bonne St. Anne. Formerly vessels from France, when they came in sight of this church, gave "a general discharge of their artillery," as a sign of joy that they had f'scaped all the dangers of the river. Though all the while we had grand views of the adjiicent country far up and down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec in the hori- zon behind us. and we never Ijeheld it without new surprise and aranch of it, at our discretion, through a forest consisting of large whitu pines. — the first we iiad seen in otn- walk, — wo at length heard the roar of falling wa- ter, and came out at the head of the Falls of St. Anne. AVe had descended into a ravine or cleft in the mountain, who.so walls rose still a hun)iit far as good t matters r tM-o, or it was a I cross- over the >ntiactcd y a dead ross and rock, and ', which dge was T, being liged to e falling lid-way, , I look- iiindrcd -. This of i)re- d as by 3sed of Iclicato, colors, oistiiri', e front, lere the ) a re- 1 in the to jar )o ever Ti was ill the )ttOTu : but a sudden angle in this gorge prevent- ed my seeing through to the bottom of the fall. Returning to the shore, 1 made my way down stream tlu-ough the forest to see how far the fall e.\tended, aiul how the river came out of that adventure. It was to clamljer along the side of a precii*- ilous mountain of loose mossy rocks, cov- ered with a damp primitive forest, and terminating at the bottom in an abrupt jjrecipice over the stream. This was the east side of the fall. At length, after a quarter of a mile, I got down to still wa- ter, and on looking up through the wind- ing gorge, I could just see to the foot of the fall which I had before examined; while from the opposite side of the stream, here much contracted, rose u perjKjn- dicular wall, I will not venture to say how many liundrcd feet, but only that it was the highest perpendicular wall of bare rock that I ever saw. In front of me tumbles in from the sunmiit of the dill" a tributary stream, making a beautiful cascade, which was a remarka- ble full in itself, and there was a cleft in this precipice, apparently four or live feet wi'le, perfectly straight up and down from to]) to bottom, whiclx from its cavernous dejitli and darkness, appeared merely as a liliirk sln'iik. This precij)ice is not slopi'd, nor is the material soft and crumb- ling slate as at Montmorenci, but it rises perfectly perpendicular, like the side of a mountain fortioss, and is cracked into vast cubical masses of gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were the ruin of an ancient wall built by Ti- tans. IJirches, sjh'Ucos, mountain-ashes with their bright red berries, arbor-vitavs, white j)ines, alders, ic, overhung this chasm on the very verge of the dill" and in the crevices, and here and there were biittresscN of rock siifijiortiiig trees i)art way down, yet so as to enhance, not in- jure, tlie etlect of the bare rock. Take it altogether, it was a most wild and rugged and stupendous chasm, so ileep and nar- row where a river had worn itself a pas- sage through a mountain of rock, and all around was the comparatively untrodden wildei'uess. Tills was the limit of our walk down the St. Lawrence. Early in the afternoon we began to retrace om- steps, not being al»le to cross the north channel and retmn l^y tiie Isle of Orleans, on account of the Irop frrand ivnt, or too great wind. Though the waves did run pretty high, it was evident that the inhabitants of Mont- morenci County were no sailors, and made but little use of the river. When we reached the bridge, between St. Anne and (Jhateau Richer. I ran back a little way to aijk a man in the iield the name of the river which wo were cro.ssinp, but for a long time I could not make out what he said, for he was one of the more unin- telligilde .Jacques Cartier men. At last it fla.shed u|)on me that it was La Jiicicrc an Chien, or tlie Dog Itiver, which my eyes beheld, which brought to my mind the life of tlie Canadian royui^tur and coiireur de bois, a more westirn and wilder Arcadia, methinks, than the world has ever seen; for the (J reeks, with all their wood and river god.s, were not so qualilied to name the natural features of a country, as the ancestors of these French Canadians ; and if any ])eop1e had a right to substitute their own for the Indian names, it was they. They have preceded the jjioncer on our own frontiers, and named the prairie for us. La Jiivicre an Chien cannot, by any licen.se of language, be translated into Dog River, for tliat is not such a giving it to the dogs, and re- cognizing their place in creation as the French implies. One of the tributaries of the St. Anne is named, Zect aided or abetted his at- tempts to .sjH'ak English. We had a long and merry chat witli the family this Sun- day evening in their spacious kitchen. While my companion smoked a pi|H' and parlez-vous'd with one party. I parleyed and gesticulated to anotlier. 'F'he whole family was enlisted, and F kept a little girl writing what was otherwise unintel- ligible. The geography getting obscure, we called for chalk, and the greasy oiled table-cloth having been wiiK'd, — for it needed no French, but only a soutt-nce from tho universal language of looks on my part, to indicate that it needed it, — wedrew the St. Lawrence with its parishes thereon, antl thencofoi ward went on swimmingly, by turns handling the chalk and c(mimitting to the table-<'loth what would otherwise have Ir'oii left in a limbo of unintolligibility. Tins was greatly to tho entertainment of all parties. F was amiisel to hear how much use they made of the word oiii in conversation with one another. After rejieated single insertions of it one wi-wld suddenly tliiuw back his liead at the sane time with his chair, and e.xclaim rapidly, oiti ! oiii ! imi .' out! like a Yankee driving pigs. Our host told us that tho f.ii-ms thenabouts were ge- ncially two acies. or thiee hundred and .sixty FiH'nch feet wide, liy one and a half leagues (?) or a little more than four and a half of our miles deep. This use of tho word acre as long measure, arises from the fact that the French acre or arf)ent, the arjtent of F'aris, makes a .stjuare of ten Iierches of eighteen feet each on a side, a F'aris foot being ecjual to 1.0(5575 Englisli feet. He said that the wood was cut off about one mile from the river. 'J"hc rest was ••bu.sh."and beycmd that the •'(Queen's bush." Old as the country is. each land- holder bounds on tho primitive forest, and fuel bears no price. As 1 had foigotten the French for sickle, they went out in the evening to the barn and got one, an;ot inn some, hey were oxcee(hn):ly fair and filossy, and it was evident that there was no wonn in them, hut thoy were as hard al- most as a stone, as if tho season was too Hliort to mellow them. W'v had seen no S«)ft and yellow apples hy the ruiid-side. I declined i-atiiif; one. inurh as I admire*! it, ohservinj; that it would he p)od tlans le printcinpn, in tlicspriny. In the morn- inp; wlien tho mistivss had set the ojikh a fryinu', she nodded to a thii-k-sot jolly- looking; fellow, who ntlled up his sleevoN, seized the h»nj.'-handled ^'riddle. an