^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I if 1^ IIIM ■^ 1^ 12.2 Hi ■;& 12.0 m L25 1.4 m ^ 6" — ► p^ /M vl ^7. '^ >> '/ M Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WESr MAIN STREET WEBSTER, H.r. i '.KJ (716)873-4503 '^N cF C\ • <^ ^ signiffie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signiffie "FIN". Les cartas, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre ffilmAs A des taux de reduction difffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grend pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est ffiimA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. u ■ r 2 3 4 5 6 1 - L\ * Vf, ' ."ima. ' l" ' ' , L. Hm i .iljg AN AUTHENTIC NARRATIVE O F A VOYAGE PER FORME D B V Captain COOK and Captain CLERKE, IN HIS majesty's SHIPS RESOLUTION and" DISCOVERY, During the Years 177(5, 1777, 1778, 1779, and i-8«. r--^. ! AN AUTHENTIC NAR RAT.IVE O F A VOYAGE PERFORMED BY Captain COOK and Captain CLERK E, IN HIS majesty's ships RESOLUTION and DISCOVERY, Duringthe Years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779 and 1780; IN SEARCH DFA N OR TH-WEST PASSAGE Between the Continents of Asia and America. Including A faithful Account of all their Discoveries, and the unfortunate Death of Captain CO OK. ILLUSTRATED WITH A CHART and a Variety of CUTS. By W. ELLIS, ASSISTANT SURGEON TO BOTH VESSELS. THE THIRD EDITION, . V O L. I. LONDON, Printed for G. Robinson, ?at«r nofter-row; J. Sewell, Cornhill; and J. Debrett," Piccadilly. WDCCLXXXIV. 17955 y / y-7 O C O N T E N T S* CHAP. I. crHE Jhipsput in commiffion -^fall down to Long . MJacJb — proceed to Plymouth — the Refolut'wn- failifor the Cape of Good Hope — the Difc&very fbl- Iffiios Jbme time after her arrival there — bothjbips levue the Cape, and proceed to the fouthward--^ difccfver Marions Ifles — and the ijland of Defota* tion '^proceedings there , and departure'-^fime ac' (ottHi (^ the yiand* I C H^A P. II. ^he Jhips proceed to P^an-Diemen^s Land — arrival in Adventure Say-'-meit with no good water— 'catch plenty offi/h-'—partieikfent to cut wood— -fame of the natives make their appearance— defcriptioa of them —''are frightened by the difcharge of a mufquet, and run into the woods—pay us another v'lftt — a far^ ' fher defcription of them, and of Adrjentnrti Bay^ CHAP. in. pepdrtute from Fdn-Diemen's Land—'-arrival at New Zealand— fome of the natives venture along-Jide—* appear fufpicious and dijirufiful'—the tents ereSfed onjhore — brew fpruce beer—filihinefs of the New Zealanders — Tiu-arrooa\\ attachment to Captain Cook and Omai—Kihoorah, t1^ chiefs who killed A 2 the CONTENTS. the unfortunate Mr A>o»..- •/• anchor in a faualF l7 Dtfiovery drags her PoHy Omai^the ZthTrofXfl ^^ ^'^ '' ^^^«- our departure. ' ^""''^-^ ^^' former mconfokble-^ ^ H A P. IV. ^afi through Cook*s Str^iu j-r fords a PleafingprZtZf7"' T '^''^f- '0 look for a iZilJ, ' """"-'I" boats fmt ifl'nd~kcoverZT„Je^:.:''T -'''"' "" 'omionboard-dlT,i~!r,^'''""'<>^ nMy a chief-he entenZ'^f *hem-.the arrhatof hats—are not aik to2Z i~i^' "J"^" °f '*' m for the night. '""'~">' Ms fiand off and C H A P. V. Small ljd„d-JZ[Ta'T f"'' f"""' '" >^' defcription of ThenaZ'/"''''"'''^'^''^'''''''- ioatsfem loJL",Z" ^''"" '^i^es-the J "J'— ^optom Cook determine: to proceed t» CONTENTS. to the Friendly IJles, by way of Palmerjlon*: Iftc — and bears away accordingly, 42 C H A P. VI. Hot fultry weather, with thunder and lightning — ar- rive at Palmerfton*s IJland — find no anchorage for the fhips--the boats fent onjhore — account of this jfland — inhabited by numerous flocks of birds— the reef affords excellent fijh— particularly large eels — defcriptioH of them - many fharks—find part of a , canoe, and it piece of plank upon the beach — pafs Savage Ifland — and defcry the Friendly Ifles — an- (horoffAnamooka, 50 CHAP. VII. Captain Cook^s order relative to trade — the tents ereSl- edy and markets heldonjhore — the Difcovety parts her Jmall bower cable — the arrival of Feehow-^ the Vifcovery parts her befi bower cable -^ Captain Cook accompanies Feenow to Happi with thefhips — receives great civilities there — is entertained with boxing andwreftling matches and dances — departs from Happi — the pajfage to Anameoka very danger- ous — arrival ofPowlahow — who proves to be the king'-'flriSfures on Feenow*s conduct — Powlahow vifits the fhips — Feenow arnves and pays him ho- mage, 58 CHAP VIII. The Jhips leave Anamooka — the pajfage to Jmjlerdam dangerous on account of the rocks — arrival there-- are CONTENTS. Mre informed that Mdk'Wagga is Kinr-^theCap' tains vifit him — but are (ii/appoifUed'-'MoIla depart for the northward-^fall inwith the north- weft coaft of America — trace the coqft as well as the zvind and weather permit — are put to an allow- flnce of water^^difiover king George's Somd--^ where we anchor — the natives vifit us — account of them, and of our tranfaSiions there — departure from King George's Sound, i8o CHAP. XIV. Account of King George's Sound— produce — animals — inhabitants — temper — drefs — houfes—-'food—^ cookery — manufaSiures-— canoes — fijhing-tackle — weapons — ^^Z^^^*- ^.^^^ 209 ft'sy; CHAP. XV. CI * *VK \' Departure from King George's Sound — the'Refolution jprings a leak-^experience much blowing weather-— continue to trace the coaft — Captain Cook goes on fhore — we difcover Sandwich Sound — and anchor there'" fome of the Americans make their appear- ance — dejcription oj them — weigh our anchors and Jlandon, but the weather proving bad, are at night obliged to let them go again — more of the natives vi/tt us^ but behave infolently-r-account of them — proceed through the Sound— fome account of it. 130 :'-'''' CHAP. XVI. Leave Sandwich Sound, and continue to trace the coafi -^difcover the rivir Turn-again^ tranfaSf ions dur- - ■* • * - " •' tni :W ;*N CONTENTS. ing our courfe up and down the river — occurrences during our run along the coajl tilt our arrival in Providence Bay, ^49 CHAP. XVII. TrahfaBions and occurrences at the ijland oj Una- lafchka — we depart from thence, and continue to trace the coaft. 281 CHAP. XVIII. Tran/affions till our departure from the Tfchutfchl Nofs» 310 CHAP. XIX. DireB our courfe to the Americanfhore — fall in with the ice — numerous herds of fea-horfes^ or morfe, upon it— fee land, which Captain Cook denominates Icy CapC'-^trace the ice — difcover the Afiatic conti" nenty which we continue to trace till we again ar- rive at the Ifchutfchi Nofs, 335 %^ .c- k \y ■I /li/t. 'T. -^^ t.| 'f:> ttV? A'v:' ■■■-HHW' ■^■■ ',»>«# t,iv«V. f't'ft'i%-'^l'/''C.*''^-'. :»y^- f « f I •.si-v'ii ', Jv '■•■• •^ .1 ^U '». «'^ \ M • ■ I j A Chart. ; S/tfuiftf/ /Ar Trnrht titu/ /it'/i'otrnrs \ in tlii- PA r rrir o c k an , .«'-•- ^> ' c . ;////> A- 'My ) ^ 3 I Iff A . fOf'A. ^tn) ff//t Y/r}/f / ^ J in Ilii >!ai'rftvii Sliiiii ./ ' J *- ' — > Mf:sH/.r7to,'\ •_ miffhtx rofKjif.->\ S IN I ! I i ' ^•■''*^'^ I T— r- 'ilOO lO i i- -Aid ap«» ^ ^HftlMl- 1 .IftlJ^ r«uif "f »«• 'i'^ .1 S'.li,tnm k' ./ .V y /a- a- .V _;>'• .1""*, vhtPr -kri^^-S--- ^5ft :) K T H F A c\l J^ S.'iii» In'TWvA 'V»' .t.yhmit.' /tntihr y -ti- A' (' r ./ r // AT I /i'lK / v>*. t«» I I /fmn/fyj \ ()t/trfm< *•'• S () r T (tiirlallril ' 'Uiilr. ^ .\,„,/„,,/l II r A c I r I Jf ..»/,«*.» o ex V7/ K 'l^r/ tt^t X tt.t I. .t .V It "-''/''■S-H^.r^ f, r^M rilppr (V I/O !»«> i|t)u a|uu aU«' jao -^••^ ; «/<«M«lM^ /l*d#/ ir.'lo /4^Mf aW*^«)I Ar SMith l^ulf' tioHl.t ■-ilafc'- 11 ( I ) CHAP. I. Tie Jhips put in commtffion'^fall Jowfi to Long Reacb'-^proceed to Flymouth-r'tht Refolution fails for the Cape of Good Hope *^tbe Difcovery folhtjos fome time after her arrival there — both Jhips leave the Cape and proceed to the fouth*ward — dif cover Marion's ifles-^and the Ifland of Defolation ^^proceedings there f and ; , de* partiire^ome account ^ the ifland* .^.. ON, February 14th, 1776, the Refolu- tion and Difcovery were put ia commiflion, and the pendants hoifled. Af-* ter undergoing a thorough repair, &c. ia the dry dock, they were moored along fide the hulk, and continued in thai; iltuationf taking in the necelTary ftores, till the 12th of May, when the.Pifcovcry fell down to Galleons. Som^ day^ after the Refolutioa followed, and anchored in Long Reach, ^ Vol. h 8 an4 ■•■« ( s ) and the Difcovery having received her gunner's ftores on board, proceeded to the fame place, and after a fhort flay, both vef-* fels fell down to the Nore, where the Re- folution remained. The Difcovery had or- ders to make the bed of her way to Ply- mouth, but contrary winds having obliged her to put into Portland, it was near a week before flie arrived there. About a fortnight after, the Refolution anchored in the Sound. From this time to July 1 2th, every body was afliduoufly employed in completing her flock, when, in the afternoon of the fame day, ihe weighed, and made fail for the Cape of G6od Hope. The Difcovery was equally prepared for fea j but Captain Clerke's af- fairs detained him in town a confiderable time after, and he did not arrive in Ply- mouth till the firft of Auguft. In the afternoon fhe got up her anchor, and made fail likewife for the Cape. On the 7 th in the morning, they faw Cape Finifterre, bearing S. S. E. ^ E. di- -^ ftant ( 3 ) ftant five or fix leagues, and in the after- noon of the 1 3th faw Porto San^o, and the next day Madeira, On the 26th and 27th, pafied the iflands Sal, St. Nicholas^ and Bonavida, and early the next morn- ing flood in for Porto Praya bay, as Cap- tain Gierke was not without hopes of finding the Refolution there. They now foon loft the N. E. trade wind, it (hifting to the S. W» but upon approaching the cquinodial, it gradually veered round to the S. £. September 24th, in the evening, the corporal of marines fell overboard and was drowned* OAober 31ft, about two in the afternoon, they faw the appearance of land, which from its bearings, &c. they ftrongly fut- pedled was the Table Hill, or fome of the high land near it; but the next day a heavy gale of wind arofe from the S. E. and continue^ to blow with great violence, till the 8th of November, when it became more modemte, and (hifted to the S. W, The next morning, to their great joy, B 2 they .tf t 4 ) they faw the Table Hill bearing E. by S, and at ! I at night, having very light airs, anchored, but immediately after a heavy fquall from the fouthward came on, and drove the Difcovery, in fpight of her anchor, towards P'^nguin Iflandi which circumftance obliged her to weigh it again and make fail. At one in the morning, having flood over to the S. E. fide of the bay, Ihe came to, and at fix weighed; and with the afUflance of her boats got fafe in about nine, when fhe faluted the fort with thirteen guns, which was re- turned with an equal number, and the Refolution, overjoyed at feeing her long expedited confort, faluted with nine guns. The daily occurrences at the Cape were {6 little intereiling and entertaining (being nothing more than refitting the ihips, repairing the rigging, receiving on board flores and provifions) as not to re- quire a relation of them ; it therefore will be only neceflary to fay, that by the 3Cth of November, both veffels were ready for fea. The ( 5 ) The next day (December ift) at five ift the afternoon, we weighed and made fail ; and having faluted the fort, ftoodout of Table Bay. When clear of the land, we fleered a S.S. E. and S. E. courfe, it be- ing Captain Cook*8 intention to afcertain the reality of fome land to the fouthward, which was faid to be difcovered by Mon- lieur Kerguelen, and which he had in vain fought for in his laft voyage. The French charts were unluckily incorredt, for the Refolution, in her tra, ( " ) through many extenfive fields (if I may be allowed the expreflion) of fea weed, (fucus gigartiniiSy Lin.) and as they generally indicate a rocky neighbourhood, we were fearful of meeting with fome of thofe dangerous obftr unions. The ihips were no fooner fecured than Captain Cook ordered out the pinnace, and went on fhore on the eaftern iide ; while the Pifcovery's fmall cutter, with the mailer, was fent to a fmall iOand to the weflward, to take the bearings and diflances of the different remarkable points of land. The feals and fea-bears were more numerous than at the laft place, and fome of them much larger. The next morning (the 30th) wc weighed, and made fail, and after coafting fome time, in order to afcertain the extent of the land, we flood to the eaftward, ihaping our courfe for Van-Diemen's Land. This ifland was firft difcovered by Moofieur Kerguelen. Chriftmas-harbour (which I (12 ) tf^liich was that part of it where We firft landed, and which was fo called in re- inembrance of Chriftmas-day) lies nearly in latitude 48 deg. 41 min. fouth, and in longitude 68 deg. 52 min. caft. It is cafily to be known by a remarkable pierced rock on its eaftern fide, which is -like the gateway of fome old caftle. The harbour is very fecure, and is furrounded by high land. If we may judge of the general produce of this place, from what ^we faw of it at Chriftmas Harbour, it is certainly as rocky, barren, and defo- late an ifland as can well be conceived, which induced Captain Cook to call it the Ifland of Defolation. It does not af- ford a fingle fhrub, and is covered, in ibme few fpots only, with mofs and four or five fpecies of plants, among which is one fomething refembling a cabbage in its appearance. Its inhabitants are feals, fea-bears, penguins falca cirrhata apte-' nodytes antarBica)^ gulls, Port Egmont hens (larm cattaraBesJ^ quaker birds ' (frocel" ie is le at ir, ' o- It kf- in ur is in Is, f^- int ■ds n ( 13 ) procellaria aquila), petrels (procellaria capenfis^ vittata), terns, fliags, ducks, and a white bird about the fize of a groufe, which we called a fnow bird. Itft beak is ftrong and black, with a hollow protuberance at the bafe, fomething like that of a petrel ; it has four toes ; its feet are of a flefh colour. At the bafe of the wing is a black, hard, round knob, which projects about a quarter of an inch ; ita eyes are furrounded with a kind of mem- brane which appears as if corrugated, and is alfo of a flefli-colour. We found this a well flavoured bird, which circumftance, with the great plenty of ducks and ihags, induced our fporti^ men to be out pretty often, but at laft they, became fhy, and almoll quitted the fpot. The eaftern part of this ifland affords the fame barren afpeft as Chriftmas Har- ^ hour, and in fhort the whole is an aiTem- blage of huge rocky matter, only calcu- lated for the refidence of fuch half-formed animal$ Lt'Jlihy. \ mmmmm if s ( H ) animals as feals and fea-bears. Ttd thermometer was from 34 to 36, add once 50 degrees. C H A P. 11. Tie Jhips proceed to Van^Diemeris land^-* arrival in Adventure Bay — meet with no good water — catch plenty of fijh-^ forties fent to cut wood-^fome of the natives make their appearance — who attended, made iigns for them to defift; but they difregarding him, he fired a mufquet over their heads, which Vo^' I' C fudden ;( «8 ) fudden and unexpected noife Co ^lafm^d them, that every foul, as well thofe who were with the wooders as waterers, clapped their hands upon their heada, and ran off with the greateft expedi- tion. Our fi(hermen were very lucky, and brought off a variety of fifli, amongft which were fome of the largeft rays we , ever faw, and a very uncommon looking fifli, which we called an elephant-fifli (f/;/- mara callorynchusy Lin.) The (hooting party were not fo fortunate : birds of aU kinds were very fhy, particularly the ihags and duck&. Early the next morning {29th) our parties were employed on Ihore, as be- fore; but the water proving very bad, upon trial, the Commodore thought it moft prudent to relinquifh Ids fcheme of Haying there any longer, and according- ly gave orders for every thing to be brought on board. Whilft our people were employed in getting off the aftro- nomers tents, and various other matters, the 1 ( »9 ) ihtf n^tive4 agaiA paid us a vifit. We now had a better opportunity of making our remarks than before. Their colour, as has been before obferv- ed, was dark brown : their hair (which was Ihort and woolly) and beard were formed into fmall diAin€fc lumps, with a mixture of reddifh bi-own earth, ^nd fome kind of liquid, which appeared to be of an oily nature : this mode of dreffing their ha(ir gave them an uncommon jippeafance. The man who feemed to be the principal ^mong them, had his face entirely painted with this compofition. Their teeth were iti general bad, their nofes Rat, lips thick, foreheads low, but their eyes were dark brown and lively. Their arms and breafts were marked with lines running id various directions, but totally diflPerent from any we had ever feen before, the flefh being ele- vated or raifed up as it were in little ridges. Round the necks of fome of them was a kind of cord, about the thicknefs of our whip-cord, very ftrong, and twifted in C 2 the ' l-\ \ii\ i tlie fame manner as our's, confifting pf three fmaller cords. They were rather averfe to partin-g with thefe. Their women v/ere very plain ; their heads fhaved quite clofe, except a very narrow circk of hair, which q/uite furrpunded i(. Some of them had the ikin of fome ani- mal thrown ovev the (houklers^ and faft- ened before, which {eemed to be merely for the convenience of carrying their chil- dren, two or three of which they had with them. Thofc who had no children^ were without this, or any other covering. They readily accepted of every thing that •was offered them, but fet xio particular value upon any thing. Thqir language was entirely new to us, and they feemed to fpeak very faft. When any thing pleafed them, they alwayo expreffed their fatisfadion by a (hout. Having got all our things to the boats, we took leave of our new friends, and departed for the fiiips. We weighed our anchors the next 4 " morning, ( 21 ) morning (30th) and ftood out of the Bay. At noon Penguin Ifle bore S. E. diftant a mile and half, and Cape Frederick Henry N. by W. Adventur« Bay (fo called laft Voyage by Captain Furneaux of the Adventure) lies in lat. 43 deg. 14 min. S. and long. 147 deg. 28 min. £. The land furrounding it is moderately high^ and covered with variety of trees to the very top. They are in general tall and ftraight ; fome afford an agreeable fpice, and others abound with gums. The under- wood is fo thick as alnioft to render travelling impradlcable in the valleys ; between the hills are fine lagoons, where are found fliags and ducks, but very fhy and not plentiful : this circumftance in- duced us to believe that the natives fre- quently moleft thera. In all our excur- fions, we faw not one tree that had the leaft appearance of fupplying the in- habitvints with food, fo that in all pro- bability they are reduced to the neceOity of principally living upon what Ihell-Hlh C3 they / > f H I- ( " ) they can colled from the rocks. We faw the vemains of two or three old huts, of rather ftieds, in and round which were Scattered mufclc and cockle ihells in a-f bundance, but not the leaft appearance of any thing clfe. Nor did we fee any thing like a boat or canoe ; fo that in fa£t they feem to be nearly upon a par with the wretched natives of Terra del Fuego. The only quadruped we faw diftindly was a fpecies of opoflum, which agrees in many rcfpeds with Mr. Pennant's defcrip- tion of the Surinam opoflum, and from the particular conformation of its h}nd feet, viz. the fir ft and fecond toes clofely united, it probably may be the fame fpecies. The birds are various, though not nu- merous, and fome of them very beautiful, particularly a fpecies of paroquet, and a fmall bird of the motacilla genus, with a bright blue head, which we, on that ac- count, called motacilla cyanea. Among a variety of filh, we obferved, the atberina bepfetus^ and a new fpecies of ( 23 ) of oftracion^ only one of which was caught. The foil is in gencraj good j we planted potatoes, kidney-beans, peach and apricot ftones, which pofljbly may fuccced very well. J.-* C4 CHAP. "mmfv ( 24 ) i I!' ' C H A iP. III. Departure from Van Diemen^s hnd-^ar-' rival at New Zealand-^-fome of the na-* tives venture alongfide'^appear fufpici' 0U5 and diftrujlful — the tents ereSicd on Jhore^^br^'w fpruce^beer — Jilthinefs of the New j nders — Tiu^arrooa's at" tachment to Captain Cook and Omai-^ Kilhoorah, the chief who killed tie un^ fortunate Mr, Rowe, vifts the JJoips ; is dijliked by his countrymen — the D if co- very drags her anchor in a fquall^-pre- parations for leaving New Zealand'^ Tiu-arrooa and another boy beg to accom- pany Omai — the mother of the former inconfolable — our departure^ FROM Adventure Bay we purfued an E. N, E, courfe. February 4th, Tuefday, early in the morning, one of the Difcovery'ss?^^ marines fell over board,, and was drowned. On Monday the joth, in the afternoon, we faw theCoaft of ( 25 ) of New Zealand, the extremes bearing from E. to S. by E. and on Wednefday the 1 2th, both ftiips anchored in Ship Cove, Charlotte Soui J. When moored, the N. point of the Cove bore N. 42 E. the S. E. point S. 35 E. and the N. part of Moutuara Ifland N. 6 1 E. The fliips were fcarcely fecured before we obferved feveral canoes of the natives croffing from the Hippa to the oppqfite fliore, along which they paddled, and flopped at fome diftance to reconnoitre us : but at length they caire nearer, and ex- pofed fomething white in their hands, which they waved backwards and for- wards. This we fuppofed to be in token of peace, and of courfe anfwered it im- mediately ; they then came along fide the fhips, though not without evident figns of fufpicion and diftrud. We pur- chafed a fifh or two, and a few other trifles, and they foon after departed. The head of one of thefe canoes was curioufly ornamented with carved open work. The ^ It'! ( 26 ) Th'» next day (Thurfday 13th) the tents were fent on (hore, with the cooper, and all the empty cafks, the aftrono* jners tents, and parties to wood and water. Coppers were alfo fixed up on fhore, to boil the blubber we had coUeifled at the Ifland of Defolation, while the re-» jnaii^ing hands on board repaired the rigging, and performed the neceflary duty of the ffiips. As we had now met with but little refrefhment fince our depart ture from the Cape, Capt. Cook, ever at^ tentive to the health of his ihips com^. panics, prqpofed brewing a kind of beer, from a tree which bore fome refem- tlance to the fpruce fir, the good eflFefts pf which he had experienced in his former voyage. Other coppers were therefore fixed for tu^^ purpofe. On Tuefday the 18th, the beer was fervedj out, and fonnd to be fo pleafant and falu- tary, and fo generally approved of by all partieSjthat the Commodore determined ta carry as much of it to fea as he could. The 3 oil ( 27 ) • oil party 6h fhbre were conftantly attended by many of the natives, who received the fcum and pieces of blubber that remained after boiling with the greateft thankful- nefs ; and indeed you could not oblige a New Zealander more than to give hini the oil out of the fhips lamps, which l^c would fwallow with all the greedinels imaginable. Of thofe who were the moll ^onftantly on board, a young lad called Tiu-arrooa was the principal; he was poffefled of good-nature, and had a great fhare of fenfe and difcernment. He was greatly attached to Captain Cook and Omai, and was conftantly with one or the other. His father was late chief of the diftridt in which our fhips lay, and was killed, with feveral others, about fix weeks before our arrival, by a ftrong party of another diftriiSt, who attacked them in the night. Tiu-arrooa and a few others efcaped with the greateft difficulty. A few days before our departure, JCjhoprah (the chief who heade4 the party that •f* ( 28 ) that cut off the unfortunate Mr. Rowc) paid us a vifit. At firft he was very fhy, and would not venture on board, fearful no doubt that we fliould revenge the death of our people upon him ; but when he found we took no notice of it, he laid afide that diffidence, and readily came to thefhips.— He was much difliked by hi* own people, who frequently defired us to ihoot him, at the fame time exprefling their difappiobation of him- in pretty fevere terms. On the 20th (Thurfday), we had very heavy fqualls of wind, in confequence of which the Difcovery drove, and wa« obliged to let go her iheet-anchor, and both veffels ftruck yards and top-mafts. The natives all this time fupplied us plentifully with filh, among which was the elephant-6ih, but one in particular, which they called a mogce, was not in- ferior to a falmon. We alfo frequently procured very excellent lobfters. "^ Captain (c*9 ) Captain Cook having given orders for ftriking the tents, &c. and preparing for fea, on the 23d every thing was put on board. Tiu-arrooa and another lad hav- ing expreffed a defire to continue with Omai, were permitted by the captain to accompany him. The mother of the for- mer came on board, and with tears rn- treated him to remain behind, telling him, among many other powerful arguments, that we ftiould kill and eat him ; but he was too refolute and firm to pay any at- tention to her perfuafions, and the poor woman went on fhore quite inconfolable. The next morning (Monday 24th), at nine, we weighed and made fail, but hav- ing very light winds, we were obliged at noon to anchor again in nine fathom, muddy bottom, Point Jackfoa bearing north. Cape Koamaroo E. t S. and the Hippah, S. by W. ^ W. At eight the next day (Tuefday 25th), we again got up our anchor, and made fail, ftaijding through Cook*8 Straits. At i At ( Jo ) Gape Tcrra-wittee bore si. noon, E. by S. Cape Koamaroo W. 4 S. , and fome rocks called the Broth^re, from W. by S. to N. W. by W. OHf ob- ferved latitude being 41 deg. 6 niin. fouth. Soimuch has already been faid of the ' natives, with their manners, cuftoms, . houfes, furniture, canoes, &c. &c. that, as we can make no improvement, a re- petition would be both tedious and uf6- kfs* w CHAP. ( 31 ) CHAP. IV. Pafs through Cook^s Straits — 'difcover aii ijland — affords a f leafing profpeB'-^ are feen by the natives — two of them come off in a canoe — the boats fent to look for a landing-place — but return without fuccefs — fome account of the natives^eave the ijland — difcover two more-^the natives very readily cojfie on board-^defcription of them^^the arrival of a chief ^^ he enters into a league of friendjhip with us — our boats fent on Jhore, attended by a number of canoes-^ the king of the ijland fends Captain Gierke a pig and fome cocoa-nuts — the return of the boats — are not able to land-^the fiiips ftand off and on for the night, ,( WE continued in Cook's Straits the beft part of Wednefday (Febru- ary 26th.) At noon. Cape Terra- wittee bore N. W. by W. and Cape Pallifer E. by N. diftant about four leagues.— From b t i )1 ( 30 From this time to the 17th of March (Monday), we continued nearly a N. E. coafl. At noon our obferved latitude was 33 deg. and 23 min. S. In the after- noon we pafTed the trunk of a tree, which appeared much weather-beaten, and was furrounded with barnacles. Early in the morning of the 29th (Saturday), being in lat. 22 deg. 11 min. fouth, and longitude 20 1 deg. 50 min. eaft, wc pafled feveral pieces of wood and rock- weed : feveral man of war birds were obferved ; and a bird, fomething like a cuckow, flew round the Ihips. Thefe being indications of the proximity of , land, we kept a good look-out, but upon examining our charts, we found none laid down nearer than the Society Ifles. At nine the next morning (Sunday 30th), we difcovered land bearing about N. E. The Difcovery being a-head, made the fignal, which v\as anfwered by the Refolution. The winds foon after prov- . ing lighf, and being fome diflance from the ( 33 ) the land, night came ^n before we could diftinguifli objects clearly ; fo got our tacks on board, and flood off and on till morning (Monday 3ift)f when we made all fall for the land. At four we were running along the fouth fide, at about the diftance of four miles, which as the fun was jufl rifing, afforded a moft pleafin^ profpedt. The interior parts rofe in mode-* ratcly high hills, upon the tops of which were trees of various kinds* The udes n^xt the fea were very woody, and we could plainly didinguifh cocoa-nut and plantain trees in abundance.-^Upon out nearer approach to the ihore, we faW many of the natives running along the beach, and, by the help of our glafTes, found that fome had large clubs upon their fhoulders, and that others were arm- ed with long fpears. As we proceeded^ the Indians followed us, (houting and hallooing, their number increaCing Very fafl. Soon after two of them put pfF in a canoe (the only one we faw), and Vol. I, J) came wm ( 34 ) came tf^ithm fifty or fixty yarda o£ tlxd fhipSi but would not venture nearer, though we made all the friendly figns we could thihk of, and ihewed tnem. beads, hatchets, looking-glailes, and many oiher articles of Lidian trade* Their complexioh appeared to be of lh«. dark olive caft, their hair was faftened oa the top of their heads fomething in the New Zealand fafliion : one of them had a large pearl oyfter-fhell fufpended from his neck, and fomething round his mid- dle ; the other was naked. — The canoe was neatly made, and furniflied with an out-rigger ; the llern was high for fo finall & boat, and terminated in a kind of fork. ^ Captain Cook finding the little proba- bility there was of opening an intercourfe with the natives in this manner, ordered the pinnace and fmall cuuer to be j^ot out, which, with the large cutter of the Difcovery, and proper officers on board each, with trade of various kinds, were fent ( 35 ) lent in fhore, to fee if there '^ats a poffi- bility of landing, and to endeavour to ^urchafe fom^thirig from the inhabitants. During their abfence, w<* founded feveral times, but got no grourid at forty fathom. About three hours after, they returned, knd the inforniatiori we received was, that the illahd (at leaft this part of it) Was Turroiinded with a reef of cofal rock, iipon which a heavy fUrf was continually bi-eaking ; iJo that it was totally imprac- ticable to land without deftroying the boats, and endangering the lives of ihofe who were in theni. About a quar- ter of a mile {roih the reef, they found 3;round at twenty-one fathom. During their cruife, they had an op- portunity of riiakirig a few remarks up- ' on the natives, many of wHom fwam to them from the fhore. T hey were flvjUt and well made, but all arnied ; fo that it ■ Was more than probable they would have bppofed iis, if we had fucceeded fo far as to have landed upon the reef. Some of D 2 '' them ■■■'' i' ■- i; i. 1'^ II ii ( 3^ ) t^iem were armed with patai-patewsrj like tlhofe of the New Zealanders ; and their knguage refembkd, in many refpefts, that of Otaheitee. They quite difregarde^ Eatcl^ets and nails, but were much pleafed with looking-glaflfes i- like all other Ind > ans they were given to thieving, and one ©f them very artfully ftole a bunch of beads out of one of the boats, with which lie fwam off. Ouf people could not procure a fingfe cocoa-^nut, nor would they part with any thing they had. The fliore appeared very delightful, the trees being lofty and ihady, and the air was al> folutely perfumed with the fcentaof vari- ous flowers. We wefe much chagrined at our^bad fuccefs for feveral reafbns, but more par- ticularly on account of our live ftock, which were aknoft in a ftarving condition. Finding that nothing more could be done, at noon we made fail, flanding to the northward, the extremes of the ifle bearing N. £. by £. and S. by £. 6 "F^ t^- (37 ) The next day (Tucfday, April ift), at noon, ^and was again difcovercd, bearing N. by E. The Difcovery, being acar three miles a-head of the Ref(^utioD, made the fignal. At four in the after- noon, it bore from N. E. r N. to N. E, i E. diftant aibout fcven leagues; we flood off and on for the night, and at day- break (VVednefday 2d) it bore N. E. about four leagues. It appeared to be an ifland nearly of the fame extent as the former. At five the Refolution hoiiled the Difcovery's fignal to make fail a-head to the N. £. and at feven we faw another fmall ifle bearing N. ^ E. At noon tacked, the fmall ifle bearing E. and the body of the large one S. E. by E. oui latitude being 19 deg. 47 min. fouth, and longitude 202 deg. 12 min. eafl. All the afternoon we were making the beft of our way for the large ifland, but being obliged to work to windward, night came -on before we could reach it, fo of courfe fkood off and on till morning. During D 3 the (• 3? ) the night we faw feveral fires on Ihorfe 5 and the next day, at five in the morniqg, the Difcovery made all fail for the iflan(i, in confequence of a fig nal* from the R^fq- lution. " As the fliips were ftanding in, rjiany of the natives put off, fome in fingle, others in double canoes ; the fingle havq feldom room enough to contain more thar^ one perfon, the double ones will hold eight or ten. They foon paddled along fide, and with very little perruafioh came on board, their fize was above the middle ftandard^ and they were ftout well-madq people, with fine open countenances ; their colour of the olive caft, with a mix- ture of brown. Their hair was black; in fome long, in others fhort, and wore in a variety of forms, juft as convenience or fancy diredled. None had more than a narrow piece of cloth round their mid- dle, which was painted or dyed of dif- ' ferent patterns, with red, black, and yeU low. Several were marked or tatowed mofi *3s;l.^ ( 39 ) TV mofj: curioufly from the middle down- wards, particularly upon their legs. They were very friendly and good-natured, and ran about the (hip with as little ceremony, and appeared as perfee moft welcome fight ; wc gave tli-m in return knives, red cloth9 ^nd iiails. At feven in the evening the boats returned, but without either hog^, bread-fruit, plantains, qr aiiy thing elfe. The account we received was, that they bad with great difficulty got on fhoce in the Indian canoes ; as foon as they were landed, the natives led th^m in great form to the I^ing, \yho behaved rather referved upon the occafion : upon inform- ing him that we were 'in great want of provifions, he faid that we fhpuld have hogs and other things, but as they were at a diftance up the country, it would be fome time before his people could get them. They waited a confiderable time, but non^ appearing, they again requefted that fome might be brought, or at leaft fome bread-fruit, plantains, or cocoa-nuts. They w^j^e defired tp ftop a little longer, which ^ ; ( 48 ) t^kh they did till it became rather lat«, atid they deemed it prudent to get oft fcoard as foOn as they could. The in- habitants would at firft fcarce permit fhem to go, but feeing them refolutely tent on departing, they at laft acquiefced, having taken from them almofl every thing they could find, and glad were our gentlemen to efcape fo cheap, as they were apprehenfive of being detained on fhore much againft their inclinations. One circumftance was very remarkable ; which was, Omai's finding five of his countrymen upon this ifland. The ac- count they gave was, that in palling from one ifland to another they were drove out to fea> and after beating up and down for feveral days and nights, and fufFering almoft the extremes of hunger, thirfl, and fatigue, they at laft fell in with this ifland ; the inhabitants of which not only very humanely aflbrded them pro- te^^ion, but likewife gave them wives; and, in ihort, that they were now looked upon ( 45> ) Upon as natives of the place. This afTair^ according to Oipai^ happened np^r (({i years i^go. Both the men and women were c!oth.« j^d much in the Otaheitee manner ; they were armed with fpears and cluhs, thp latter heing curioufly carved. The Indian name of this ifland is Watieu, that of the fmaller one Modu-ete. During the night we ftood off and on, and the next morn- ing (April 4th), fhaped our courfe for the fmall ifle, purpofing to t^y if we (hould be 'more fortunate in our attempts at th^t place than at the former. At ten, the boats from both (hips were difpatched on ihore* not for the purpofe of procuring provifions* for the ifland was uninhabited, but to cut gra& (&c. for our live dock, the povidix^ for which was the principal objeft. After 0iey had well loaded the boats> thay were to bring cocoa-nuts, breadrfruit, plaintains, &c. if the place produced them i in which cafe fuch a number of nailS) ( 46 ) 4; hails, hatchets, 6cq, were to be left, al tfrcre thought a fufHcienl recompence fbf them. Our obferved latitude to-day wak 1I9 deg. 47 min. S. At half pad fix in the evemng, thfe t)6ati5 r(:tUrheJ With a plentiful itock of gra(*8 arid many three old huts, which had poflibly beeii creeled there by thofe who came ftoni Watieu foi' the purpofe of fifliing; This illarid is alfo furrounded with a reef, whifch rendered landing rather dif- ficult. It is very fmall, beiiig nbt tnofe thaii a mile and lialf in length, and is iitiiated about ten miles from Watleii* At eight in the evening We hoifted iii the boaits, and bdre away for Harvey's Iflind, which Captain Codk 'difcbvered • ' during ( 47 ) during, ills laft voyage. The ncjtt i&f (April 5th) the flilps companies were put to two-thirds allowance of every fpecies of provJfion except grog. Soon after day-light the next morning (April 6th), we faw Harvey's Ifland, beaming W. S. W. At ten, we had Very light slifa, and tlic Dilcovery got too near the Refolu- tion, and was obliged to get out her large cutter to tow her clear. Soon after we faw feveral Indians putting off in their canoes ; at fifft they kept aloof, as If to reconnoitre, but at laft ventured along-i fide. Their appearance was altogether wretched, and Very different from the inhabitants of the tropical ifles in gene- ral. Their hair was black and fhaggy^ they 'Were Very dirty, and had brily a very fmall ftrip of cloth round their middle. -O They wanted every thing they faW, ahd one of them was handling the oars out df the Difcovery's cutter, which was along- fide. Thefe we were not willing to 4 part ( 48 ) part vritb, and of courfe cppofpd him» vhich enraged the fellovr fo much, that be caught up his paddle and ftruck onp of our people over the head vrith it. Some of thevpL finding a pie<:e of beef towing over board to freflien, very dexteroufly divided the rope, made off v^itli the beef^ and afterwards fold it on board the Refo- lution for fome nails. In the afternoon, the boats were fent in fhore, well manned and <^^ed, to try if a trade could be opened with the natives. They returned in about two hours, with only a few co« yoa'nu ts, the i nhabitants being more dii^ {>ofed to commit hoftilities then to traffic. This iiland, we found during our run along (hore, was two feparate ones j which circumftance, with its being inhabited, were unknown before. Captain Cook now finding it imprac- ticable to reach Otaheitee in any reafon- able time, as the wind continued fo far to the eaftward, and it being abfolutely necelTary to procure food for the cattle, gave \ (49 ) ga^re up all thoughts of it fbi* the preferit, efpecially as the feafon was too far ad- vanced to Hop any time at the Society Ifles, and then proceed to the northward; He therefore determined to make the b^ft of his way to the Friendly Ifles, and or- dered the Difcovery, which was the beft failing (hip, to keep two miles a -head, purfuing a W. S. W. courfe: and as Palmerfton's Ifland was in our way, he propofed flopping there a day or two, and taking in a frefh fupply of grafs and co- coa-nuts ; a fufficient quantity of which, cfpecially of the former, he hoped to pro- cure to laft to the Friendly Ifles. At five in the afternoon we bore away, and at fix the body of Hervey's Ifland bore £• by N. diftant about three leagues. Vol. L CHAP. (50 ) CHAP. VI/ Hotfuhry weather mtb thunder and light- ning'^arrive at Palmerfi$nU Ifiand--^ Jind no anchorage for the flnfi^^the boats fent onjhore — account of this IJland-^^tH' habited by numerous flocks of birds — the reef affords excellent fljh — particularly large eels — defer iption of them — many flsarks — flnd part of a canoe and a piece of plank upon the beach '•^pafs Savage Ifland — and defcry the Friendly Ifles^-' anchor off Anamooka, FROM the feventh to the twelfth, we had very light airs and calms : the weather was hot and fultry, the thermo- meter ftanding at 83, and 84. We had alfo much thunder and lightning, at- tended with frequent fqualls and heavy fhowers of rain. The latter proved very acceptable to us, as we colleded feveral iiogflieads, and though it was ftrongly impregnated ( 51 ) impregnated Xvith the flavour of the tar, which it had contraded from the rigging, ftill in our prefent fituation it was much too valuable to be loft. On Sunday, April 13th, at fix in the morning we faw Palmerfton*s Ifland bear- ing W. At noon our obferved latitude Was I?'* 6' S. and longitude 197^ 23' E. when it bore W. by N. diftant about five leagues. In the courfe of the day, we had light variable winds, and during the night ftood off and on. In the morn- ing (April 14th), at four, the' land bore W. between three and four leagues diftant. At eight, boats from both fhips were fent to found, but returned in the afternoon, ,having found no proper anchorage, but had difcovercd a kind of inlet or break in the reef, where the boats might land with fafety. Our firft care the next day (April r 5th) was to cut grafs for the ftock, which were in a moft piteous condition, nor did we think of engaging in any other bufmefs E2 till ( 52 ) till we had got a fufficient quantity t& maintain them till our arrival at the Friendly Ifles. After this the people were employed in gathering cocoa-nuts, ^which were diflributed to the ftiip's com- pany. The grafs and nuts being brought on board, we, on Friday evening (April 17th), bore away, fleering a wefterly courfe. Palmerfton's Ifland lies in latitude 18^ 4' S. and 196^ ^o' E. longitude ; it was difcovered and thus called by Captain Cook in hislaft voyage. It confifts of an extenfive reef, which is nearly feven leagues in circumference : upon different parts of this reef, rifes a fmall patch of land, of which there are in all nine. The largeft is not more than a mile and half in circumference ; fome of them not 150 yards. Within the reef is a lagoon, which, as far as we faw, had no connec- tion with the fca : it appeared to be in fome places between two and three fa- thom deep. The [ Si ) ' The produce of this place confifts prin- cipally of cocoa-nuts, and very fine fcur- vy grafs. The only inhabitants we faw were rats, lizards, man of war and tropic birds, boobies, noddies, and a few curlews. The tropic and man of war birds were fo numerous, that the trees were abfolute- ly loaded with them, and at the fame time fo tame as to fufFer themfelves to be taken off the boughs ; a convincing proof that they are never molefted by any human beings. The reef affords fhelter for variety of excellent fifh, particularly a large eel, which we found moft excellent eating. This fifli is very ugly in its appearance, which is fufficient to create horror ind difguft ; and had it not been for Omai, who told us it was very fine, it is more than probable that we fliould have re- mained ignorant of its goodnefs. The idea which it would firft ftrike one with, is that of a large fnake ; its length is be- tween four and five feet, and fpotted or H ^ variegated ( 54 ) variegated with brown and black ; in cir^ cumference it is about ten or twelve inches ; the head is fmall and rather fiat, with fmall fiery eyes ; the part immedi- ately behind the head is as it were fwelled or puffed up to a confiderable fize ; the mouth is wide and well armed with fmall but very (harp teeth. There are likewife an incredible number of (harks continually lurking about the reef, which, though fmall, are very ravenous. None of our boats could pafs or repafs to the fhips, without twelve or fourteen of thefe gentry after them, fo that if any of our people had been unfortunate enough to fall overboard, they xnuft inevitably have been devoured. Upon the beach we found the remains of a canoe, and a piece of plank, which appeared to have compofed part of an European veffel. Some diftance from thefe was another piece of wood, rudely carved, which, from the figures upon it, Omai faid had once belonged to a burying-place of fome iilands in thefe feas. We ( 5S ) We paffed Savage Ifland (fo denomi- nated laft voyage on account of the fero- city of its inhabitants) on the 23d in- flant at midnight, when it bore from W. by S. to N. W. by N. Our weather was in general cloudy and fqually, with thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. On Mondawl^ening (April 28th), being, ac- cording to our reckoning, not far from the eaftermoft of the Friendly Ifles, we pafled the night in Handing to the north- ward and fouthward. The next day (29th), at nine in the morning, we de- fcried the eaftern range of thofe iflands from the maft-head. At noon they bore from N. W. by N. to W. by N. our diftance from the neareft being about four miles. At four, we had no lefs than fifteen . iflands in fight, the largeft of which, called by the natives Anamooka, by us Rotterdam, bore N. W. 4- N. At fix the Refolution made the fignal for calling anchor, and half an hour after both (hips E 4 came ( 56 ) . came to ; Three Hill Ifland (a fmall ifle with three elevations upon it) bearing N. W. by N. The night was very fqually, with thunder and lightning. April 30th, in the morning, at fix, we weighed, and made fail, fhaping our courfe for Anamooka, as well 2^ variable winds would permit. At nine, many of the natives put off in their canoes, and came along fide, without any hefitation or appearance of fear, and totally unarmed. This confidence which they repofed in ys, was, we thought, a proof, and a con^ vincing one too, of a peaceable and friend- ly difpofition, and the name by which thefe iflands are diftinguifhed, viz. Friendly, is well applied. We pur- chafed of them (for all their canoes were freighted with fomc good thing or other) cocoa-nuts, fowls, bread-fruit, and yams, for which we paid beads, nails, knives, ?ind fmall pieces of red cloth. At noon the weather became fo thick and hazy with hard rain, that we were not (ible tp dif- tingui(h { 57 ) tinguifh the land, and all the afternoon and night we were employed in ftanding off and on, not heing able to find an aor- choring place. The next day (May i ft), at noon, Ana- mooka bore E. I S. about four miles di- ftant. At fix in the afternoon we an- chored in forty-feven fathom, fandy bot- tom, the north point of Anamooka bear^ ing E. N. E. diftant five miles. At day- light (Friday 2d) we got up our anchor, and made fail. Numbers of the natives came off to us, and we foon purchafed a fufficient quantity of hogs, yams, plan- tains, fowls, &c. &c. for the fhip's com- pany, and bid adieu to every fpecies of fhip's provifion except grog. At noon the extremes of Anamooka bore S. E, by S. and S. .^ W. diftant from the ne^reft fliore three miles. At four in the after- noon, both veflbls anchored, and foon after were moored a cable each way, the befl; bower of the Difcbvery being in feventeen fathom, the fmall bower in twenty-fevcn- fathom^ ( J8 ) fathom, her diftance from the reef about three cables length. CHAP. vir. Captain Cook's order relative to traBe'-- the tents ere^ed, and markets held on Jfjore^-^the Dif cover y parts her J mall bower cable^-^tbe arrival of Feenow — the Dijcovery parts her beft bower cable — ' Captain Cook accompanies Fee?iow to Hap- pi with thejhips — receives great ciuJities there — is entertained with boxing and nvrejlling matches and dances — departs from Hapfi — the pajjage to Anamooka very dangerous'-^arrival of '^owlabow^^- *vcho proves to be the king — flriBures on Feenow^ s conduSi — Powlahow vi/its the Jhips — Feenow arrives and pays him ho- mage. AS foon as the fhips were fecured. Captain Cook iifued an order to prohibit all trade, except for neceflaries, which was read to the ihips companies. The ( 59 ) ^ The fubftance of it was, that there (hould be a perfon appointed from both fhips to hold a market with the natives on fhore, for fuch provifions as the ifland proi^ duced. That two other perfons fhould likewife be appointed to trade on board ; and that none other ihould prefumc to purchafe or buy, without leave of the captain, or, in his abfence, that of the commanding officer. ' That no curiofities (hould be bought till the fhips had procured a fufficient flock of refrefhment ; after which a gene- ral trade would be opened, and every one at liberty to purchafe what he thought proper. Tne next day (May 3d) the aftrono- mers tents, inflruments, &c. were got on fhore, together with the coopers, the empty cafks, &.c. and the marines. The chief of the ifland furnilhsd us with a large hut for our reception on fhore, in the front of which the market was held j ^ a line ■ ( 60 ) a line was drawn between the natives and us, at fome diftance from the hut, to prevent their crowding too near, and none of them were permitted to come within it. We were abundantly fupplied with hogs, fowls, yams, plantains, bread- fruit, and cocoa-nuts, and in ihort fared fumptuoufly every day. On the fourth, a party of men were fent to cut wood, as the iiland apparently afforded plenty of that article : amongd other trees they unluckily cut down feve- ral of the manchineel, the juice of which getting into their eyes, rendered them blind for feveral days. In the afternoon, the Difcovery's fmall bower cable parted, having been divided by the rocks ; the dream-anchor was diredly carried out to fteady the (hip to the weftward, but the ebb tide run fo ftrongly to the eaftward, that they were obliged to poftpone it till . flack water, which was near twelve at night. Mod of the boats and people were employed the next morning ia fweeping ( 6i ) fweeping for the anchor, which was too valuable an article to be loft ; they did not fucceed however till the afternoon, when they purchafed it by the buoy-rope. The cable was cut about twenty- eight fathoms from the anchor. In the courfe of this day we were vi- fited by a chief, whofe name the natives told us was Feenow ; this man came from the ifland of Tonga- taboo or Am- ilerdam ; he had a numerous retinue, who paid him great refpedt. One of them, who appeared to be a principal man, made a long oration, in the courfe of which he gave us to under fland, that Feenow was Aghe-lahee, or king of Ana- mooka, and all the furrounding ifles, of which he enumerated near a hundred. There were likewife feven or eight fine handfome girls with him, which we were told were his wives. Having, before the arrival of his chief,, loft feveral things from the fliips, which we could impute to no one but the In- dians, i lii '■ Ik .'iil i^ t { 62 ) dians, the Captain complained to him of the thefts, and begged that he would ex- ert his authority, af^ get them reftored J Feenow promifed to do it, and in the courfe of the day they were returned. The bottom where the Difcovcry ky being very rocky and uneveil, Captain Gierke determined to fhift it farther td the weftward. The next day (May 7th) he gave orders to weigh the ftream-anchor,* and heave (hort upon the beft bower ; but the united force of the whole fhip*s com- pany was not able to purchafe it, the cable having got foul of a rock ; they waited till flacL water, when the ihip would tend to the ebb tide, and probably clear it, but at eleven the cable parted. Ths recovery of this anchor caufed an in- finite deal of trouble, as it had got in a nole between t:^z rocks, and could only be feen when the water was perfectly fmooth ; but at laft, after a number of unfuccefsful trials, they were lucky enough to weigh it. ' Feenow ) (63 Feenow had for fome days paft been very defirous that Captain Cook would accompany him to fome iflands, which he faid were about two days fail from Ana- mooka; thefe iflands he called Happi, which in the language cf th-^e people fignifies a clufler. As this bid fair for a new difcovery, the Captain very readily accepted his invitation. On Wednefday morning (May 14th) we weighed, and made fail, and after a troublefome and dangerous paflage, occa- fioned by the number of rocks and fhoals through which we were partly obliged to pafs, arrived at Happi on the 17 th. We here experienced a repetition of thofe ci- vilities from Feenow, which we found at Anamooka : every thing was conducted with the greateft regularity and decorum, and, in fhort, nothing was wanting to ren- der our ftay as agreeable as pofiible. He entertained us with boxirfg and wreftling matches, and variety of dances both by men and women ', which exceeded - # .: every IK ( 64 ) every thing of the kind that was ever ktn before. An idea cannot be conveyed by words, for their attitudes were fo various and different from any other dances, and ftt the fame time fo regular and exad, that the whole company, which confifted of thirty or forty people, feemed to be aduated by one foul. Feenow having given a fpecimen of what his countrymen could do, defired Captain Cook to entertain him with fome-^ thing in our way. The next day (May 30th) the marines from both ihips were fent on fliore to perform their exerclfe, which however did not appear to flrike him with any very great furprize. Pro- bably, he was confcious of his fuperlority over us in that particular ; at lead if he was not, moft of us were. However, left he fhould think us a parcel of poor creatures altogether, a number of fire- works were let off in the evening, which feemed to turn the balance in our fa- vour. On ( 65 ) Oh the 29tli, we weighed oiir anchors, and made fail. Sunday (June ift.) in the evening, it being very fqually, wet, and dark, the Refolution made the fignal of danger, having got too near the breakers, upon a reef of coral rock, which almoft furrounded us, but fortunately Ihe foon cleared them. On the 2d, at one in the afternoon, the weather became fo fqually, that Capt. Cook thought it pru- dent to caft anchor, for we were enclofed on every fide with rocks and (hoals, and the violence of the wind prevented us from feeing in what dire(flion to proceed : we accordingly dropped our beft bowers in forty-three fathom water, with a fandy bottom, and took in our top-gallant- yards. This difagreeable weather continued till the 4th, during which time we under- went a good deal of anxiety ; for our fitu- ation was truly alarming, as we muft un- avoidably have gone upon the rocks if our "ibles had parted. Having got up our anchors, we again made fail, and on Vol. I, f the ! i ..i h ) f^l { 66 ) the 6th, at three in the afternoon, an- chored off Anamooka, about three quar- ters of a mile frbm fhore. One of Captain Cook's reafons for flop- ping here a^ fecond time,] was to look at fome melons and cucumbers, the feeds of which he had planted foon after our ar- rival in May ; but to his great regret ^hey were in a very poor ftate, having been nearly dcftroyed by vermin. The day after our fecond arrival here, we were informed that another great .^nan from Tongo-Taboo, or Amfterdam, was arrived, whofe name was Fatafee-Powla- how. This gentleman foon. after came on board ; he was above the middle fize, exceeding fat, and appeared to be about forty. His attendants were numerous, and there was not one of them but told us that this man was the real king of Tonga-Taboo, Anamooka, Happi, and in fhort all the illands which we before fup- pofed Feenow king of. This ftrange ac- count furprifed us a good deal, as every body ( 67 ) body had taken it for granted that Fed- now was fovereign, every mark of re- fpeft and fubmiffion being paid him ; and how to account for the ufurpation (if fuch it wasy of this man. was a circumftance we could not readily fucceed in. Feenow had gone the day before ou? departure from Happi» to a neighbouring ifland called Va-vow, from which he was to return at the end of three days, with a large ftock of red feathers and various other things. The time ela^^fed, but no Feenow appeared. This circumftance, though it did not ftrike us then, appeared againft him now with double force, and gave us great reafon to fuppofe, that our old friend had really allumed a title to which he had no right, and that in fadt he was abfent for no other reafon, but to avoid an interview v^^ith Powlahow, m the courfe of which all his confequencc muft f?ll to the ground, Powlahowjduring his flay on board, paid great attention to thediiferent parts of the F 2 ft^^ip, m fM in if'. i f' mm ( 68 ) ihip, and, amongft other queftions, alked U8 what we came to thefe iflands for ? He faid, wc appeared to be in want o^ nothing, and that we all looked well and in health. A queftion of this kind came fo unfufpedted, that at firft the Captain was at a lofs what reply to make ; but recolleding himfelf, he told him he came there by the order of his King, who was a great and mighty prince, and was defirous of entering into a league of friendfhip with him ; that there was a large ftock of hatches, knives, beads, red cloth, &c. on board, which he would barter with him for hogs, and fuch articles as the ifland produced This anfwer fatisficd him very well ; and, at the defire of the Captain, he went down with him into the great cabin, where he received a prefent fuitable to his rank, and then went on board his canoe very much pleafed. The next morning Feenow arrived, and in the prefence of fome of our gentle- men, who by chance were with Powla- how i ( 69 ) how, acknowledged him as his fuperior, and paid him the homage of a fubjedt, but with a countenance Co exprcffive of ihame, that every one who faw him felt for and pitied him. Feenow's conduct was however natural enough ; for moft people are anxious to appear greater than they really are, efpecially if they are like- ly to gain any thing by it, which moft probably was the cafe with him ; and in this refpedt it anfwered his purpofe very well, for he received many prefents on that account, which otherwife would not have been given him. We found how- ever, that though he was not king, he was one of the principal men, and gene- raliffimo of the king's forces, and upon all occafions led them out to battle. F3 CHAP. ( 70 ) ll llll!!^ CHAP. VIII. The Jljips leave Anamooka — the paffage to Amjierdam dangerous^ on account af the rocks'^arrival there*^are informed that Malla-nvagga is King — the Captains vijit him, but are dif appointed — Malla-wagga pays homage to Pewlahow — the Captains accompany Poivhhow to Moa, to be pre" fent at the ceremmy called Anache — ac^ count of that ceremony — arrival at Mid-' dkburgh — -departure for Otaheitee, IN the afternoon we got up our anchors and mude fail, attended by Powla- how and Feenow, in their canoes, which went at a great rate, and a number of fmaller ones. The royal canoe was di- ftinguifhcd from the reft by a fmall bun- dle of grafs, of a red colour, faftened to the end of a pole, and fixed in the ftern of the canoe in the fame manner as our cnfign ftaffs. ill ! Hi ( 7' ) We found this paflage a moft trouble- fome and dari^crous one ; we could clearly perceive the bottom (which was one con- tinued bed of coral j, throughout the time, and here and there a rock towering its head above the reft. ' The Difcovery did fall foul of one, and had we not the ad- vantage of fmooth water and a fteady breeze, in all probability we might have run upon more of them. On the ninth, at eleven in the morn- ing, the Refolution let go her anchor, as did the Difcovery foon after, but ftill fur- rounded in a manner by rocks. Amfter- dam, or Tonga-Taboo, then bore S. y^ W. but at a good diftance. The boats were fooa after fent away to look for a more fecure place for the ihips, and having found one, we removed to it, and at five anchored for the night, in about eight fa- thom, fandy bottom. Tiie next morning (June icth) we weighed and ftood for Am- fterdam, and in the afternoon both {hips let go their anchors in a fine fecure harbour, F 4 our H li?> 't m\ ^'/ ( 72 ) <^%wx depth of water being ten fathom, if' * with a black fandy bottom ; our diftance > from the Ihore about half a mile. The next day (June i ith) the tents and obfervatorJes were got on fhore, and the gunner of each ftiip appointed to trade with the natives. The market was held in a pleafant fpot of ground, furrounded with trees, and in the front of one of Powlahow's houfes, adjoining to which the fhips tents were pitched. Every article of trade was in the greateft plenty except bread-fruit ; the feafon for which was then over ; but the want of this was amply fupplied by yams and tarrow. The cattle likewife were fent on fliore, as they had been at Anamooka, In the courfe of the day we were in- formed that a very old man, whofe name was Malla-wagga, was the real King of all thefe iflands, but being overwhelmed by the infirmities of age, he was un- able to hold the reins of government, which were theiefore turned over to '. " '' '-''' ' it Powlahow, V-: -■'>,* -?«?/ n lom, ance ; and I the trade held nded ne of /hich Lvery lenty irhich > was rrow. hore, •e in- name ng of Imed 1 un- nent, pr to ihow. \ ' . \v IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) {./ /- f/ % .6> 1.0 I.I 11.25 If 1^2 2.2 1^ iio 1.8 U ill 1.6 V] r . -v a The houfes are all very good, and in general large, fome of them being be- tween fifty and fixty feet in length, fix- teen or eighteen feet wide, and lofty enough to admit of an upper floor. The 5 wood- M; ( 71 ) wood-work is good, and laflied or tied together with line of different colours, fo difpofed as to form diamonds and va- rious other figures. They are all well thatched, and will not admit a drop of rain ; the bottoms or floor are covered with mats. ' ' - Upon fhe return of the Captains to the ■ Ihips, they found that no Malla-wagga had been there ; a piece of information which perplexed them a good deal, being totally unable to account for Powlahow's behaviour. The next morning Feenow came on board, and told us he was going for the old man ; they both returned the following day. As foon as his majefty came on board, he faw Powlahow, who chanced to be there, and, to the furprize of us all, paid him homage, by bowing and touching his feet. This extraordinary circumftance puz- zled us all, not a perlbn in either fliip being able to unravel the myftery. What could induce Powlahow hlmfclf to cany the ( 76 ) the Captains to fee the old man as king, when he mufl be confcious that he really was not, is certainly very ftrange. ' \ Malla-wagga is the father of Feenow andTubou (the latter a man of great power and confequence in the ifland), and Pow- lahow's father, whofe name was Fatafee Powlahow, is dead, and it is by no means clear that Malla-wagga could ever have been king. He has been generaliffimo, j. poft which his fon Feenow now poflefles, as has been mentioned before. Thefe miftakes however muft arife from our imperfe to whom he himfelf paid homage, as well as to a Ton and daughter of her's by a man of Fidgi (an ifland about five days fail from Amfl:erdam) ; and that during her life they alfo were / fuperior to him in point of rank, but , ' upon \ .• \ ( 77 ) upon her death all their confequeiice ceafes. Both fon and daughter are dif- ordered in their fenfes ; the name of the former is Latoo-labooloo. Malla-wagga is a very old man, apparently not Icfs than feventy, and is at times quite childifli : he was much better pleafed with a few beads than with hatchets or nails. Having exprefled a defire of feeing our method of fighting, an account of which he had probably heard from his fon Feenow, Captain Cook ordered all the marines on ihore for that purpofe. In return for this piece of complaifance, we were entertained with fome capital heivahs or entertainments, in which all the principal people afTifted, efpecially Tubovv, who w^as one of the firft rate per- formers. July 8th, the Captains and fome other gentlemen were invited by Powlahow to be prefent at a ceremony, which he called Anache, the meaning of which we could not clearly comprehend, but it feenis to • • • " be, /^' / > ( 78 ) be, the people fwearing allegiance to his fon, and poffibly is always obferved when the child arrives at a certain age. Before this ceremony he was never fufFered to eat with his father, but afterwards will always fit at table with him. The company arrived at Moa (the place mentioned before) about eight in the morning, and found Powlahow,with about' fifty of his nobles about him, drinking a'wa. Going a little farther, they ob- ferved a great number of people aflem- bled, and fitting on each fide the road of a fpacious green furrounded with lofty trees ; they immediately called out Ta- boo, and defired the Captains, &c, to fit down and pull off their hats. In one place fat fix or feven agees or chiefs finging, and by them were lying feveral flicks, with a fmall yam tied to each. After continuing their fong for fomc time, two of them took one of the above flicks with a yam, and carried it between them upon their fhoulders, fol- lowed { 79 ) lowed by five or fix others with cluhs and fpears : this was repeated by a like number of people feveral times. The yams were depofited under a large fpread- ing tree on a green, facing a burial-place ; after which all the agees, except three or four, went away. .,v.. They being gone alfo, a man came carrying a pigeon on a flick, but it was not left under the tree with the yams. Here a paufe enfued, and the gentlemen afking if the ceremony was over, were told no, but that Taboo would come pre- fently, during which time they could not be upon the fpot, but might retire behind the fence of a plantation not far off, through which they might look and fee the \vhole. Omai being of their own complexion^ and dreffing himfelf in their manner was readily admitted, and Captain Cook being defirous of feeing the whole, was with much difficulty, fuffered to be prefent, though not till he had dripped himfelf from his waift upwards. - . ,., ■ • At ' i'H ( 80 ) At four in the afternoon the othci' gentlemen were conducted to the fence of the plantation, and on looking through, faw a number of people affembled to- gether under the fame tree the yams were left in the morning. Soon after came the prince (a fine boy about twelve years old) attended by three agees, and followed by fifteen couple of women, each couple carrying a long flip of white cloth. The prince then feated himfelf on the green with his attendants, as did the women, who delivered the cloth, and then rofe up and feated themfelves at a dlflance. Immediately after this, feveral men came with each his cocoa-nut branch and large ftick, and in the fpace of three minutes made a commodious little houfe, to which the prince withdrew with the agees who attended him. After that came Powla- how attended by two men, and fat down at a fmall diftance from the houfe. A fhort paufe enfued, when upon fomething being faid by a man who appeared to be ^ ( V mafler ( 8i ) hiafler of the ceremonies, feveral of the people who were feated ran off, and after a fliort (lay returned. Then two men came, with each a green bough in his hand, made their obeifance to the prince, and for a few minutes fat before him. That done, the agees with the yams came in by pairs, laid them down at his feet, and feated thcmfelves round him ; whert the man, mentioned before as mafter of the ceremonies, made a fpeech, and was anfwered by different people, feemingly in the affirmative. The harangue con- tinued about a quarter of an hour, after which all the people difperfed, and thus ended the ceremony for the day. - The next day it was repeated withfome ^ little variation ; for they prefented him with fifli of different kinds and a'wa ; and befides the women's bringing cloth, fomc - of the men laid mats before him, which with the cloth were wrapped rouVid him, fo that by the time the whole was over, he had more things upon him than he Vol. I. . G , could ( S2 ) could move under. The whole concluded' with entertainments of boxing, wreftlingi dancing, &c. This ceremony feemed to be an allegori- cal or £gurative acknowledgement of the obedience of the people to their prince. The yams which were brought probably implied, that they would always lupply him with whatever was neceiTary for the fupport of life, as good fubjeds ought to do. The cloth brought by the women (which is their peculiar manufadure) might have nearly thc! fame meaning, and fo of the fifli and aV/a. The fubllance of the fpeech might be to inform the people, that the prince was arrived at fuch an age, and to know if they would acknowledge him as king after the death of his father, to which it is likely they gave an anfwer in the afhrmative. July loth. Captain Cook prefented Powlahow with a bull and cow, a fow and boar, and two ducks. To Feenow, he gave a horfe and mare, and to MaUa- w r-r. wagga ( 83 J Wagga a ram and two ewes j but the old gentleman paid fo little attention to them, that the captain ordered them to be brought on board again. On the morning of the i ith, both thd Ihips weighed, and made fail, and werd employed till fix at night in turning to the eaftward, between two reefs not more than a quarter of a mile afunder. At feven we anchored, but having frefh gales and fqually weather, the Difcovery drove off the bank, and was obliged to weigh her anchor, and make fail : (he continued working to windward till one the next morning, and then anchored a- gain. During the night we had frefh gales ; at nine in the morning (July 12th)' we got in the boats -, and at eleven weighed our anchors. We continued turning to the eaflward till the 13th, when we came to, off the weft fide of Middleburgh, and foon after we moored fliip ; when the N. W. part of Middleburgh bore N. 26 E ; a fmall ifland N. 13 W. the G 2 eaft -.«*' m £*,iH.^'.£ I I :■'.' ;ri, [[' fiii:rl^n iiilf^ ill m 1 ( «4 ) / call part of Amfterdam N. 30 W. and the S. part N. 78 W. our diftance from fhore three quarters of a mile. Soon after we had fecured the fhips, a double canoe arrived from Amfterdam, probably with inflrudions to the people at what rate to fell their various articles, and to inform them of the prices we had given. The following day the gunners were fent on fhore as ufual to trade, atyi founc abundance of every thing, particularly {haddocks, with which this i Hand abounds. The natives treated us with civility, but not in the fame degree as at the other iflands. We ftaid here till the 17th in- fiant, when the (hips being ready for fea, and every thing got on board, we weigh- ed our anchors, and made fail, fhaping our courfe for Otaheitee, having fome live hogs on board, a number of yams, and fome cafks of corned pork. CHAP. { 85 ) CHAP. IX. Account of the Friejtdly IJlaitds^^produce'^ animals — dcfcription of the natives — drefs ^■—houfes — food — cookery — amufements^^ manufaSiures — canoes^^burial places^-* funeral ceremofiies-^form of government-^ weapons, " ' MANY particulars have already been related of thefe iflands, in the courfe of the laft voyage ; but as our flay among them this time was of a much longer duration, of courfe we had a greater fcope for obfervations. But much re- mains* for future navigators ; the moft perfect account we can produce is at beft but a confufed piece of work, and what little we can relate is in general confined to a few common articles, fuch as thedrefs, food, and manufadures of the natives j every thing beyond being little rp.Oie than conje^.ure. It is from the form of govern- G 3 men; i 'I;. .1 ( S6 ) ^ xnent, laws, manners cuftoms, and reli- gion of' a people, that we are to derive amufement and inftrudion : and as the only road to obtain this, is by a know- ledge cf the language of the country, every account that can be given muft of courfe fall far fliort of the truth, till that knowledge is acquired, Anamooka, or Rotterdam, lies in lat, 20 deg. 14 min. S. it is almoft furround- ed by a reef of coral rock, and affords no good harbour. The foil is rich and fer- tile, except 's^'hen you approach the fhore, where it becomes fandy ; it is of a very moderate elevation, and is well clothed with trees of various kinds, but affords but little good water, on which account the natives are obliged to go inland for what they ufe in cooking. Our watering place was nearly a quar- ter of a mile from the beach, and was in fad nothing more than a {landing pool, in which the natives bathed themfelves ; the water was bgth thick and muddy, an4 not - : " ^ ^7 ) . •■ •not very palatable, but we foimd no bad efFedls from the ufe of it. ^"' ' *- ' The Happi iflands lay in about a S. W. diredion from Anamooka ; Lefoogo, which is the name of that, off which the -fhips anchored, 'is in latitude 19 deg. 46 min. S, and longitude 185 deg. 10 min. £. They are all (at leaft all we fa^v) low, flat iflands of fmall dimenfions, and afford but little water : mofl of them are well .cavered with trees, which prove the foil .to be good. ' "■ - Tonga-taboo, or Amflerdam, is in lat. 21 deg. 8 min. S. and 185 deg. 8 min. E. longitude. It is the largefl that we faw of the Friendly Ifles, and is low and •flat, without the leafl elevation. Water :here alfo is a fcarce article, fo much fo that we were obliged to dig a Well upon a fmall ifland about three miles from the fhips 3 but after all it proved brackifh and- unpalatable. Middleburg, or. Faoowe, Is to tl^e jiorthw^ar.d of Amfterdam, in lat. 21 deg. G 4 21 Wi 21 min. S. This ifland is by far the moft pleafant of the whole, and is interfperfed with lawns, hills, and dales, as beautiful as can be conceived. The foil upon the hills is nearly of the colour of red oker, that in the vallies black and rich. It af- fords fine water, but not convenient for the ufe of (hips, being too far inland, r The iflands of Va-vow and Fidgi we never faw; but by the account of the na- tives they are both high land, and plen- tifully fupplied with water, v' ' •• . The foundation of all thefe iflands, is a folid bed of coral rock, the points of ' "U'hlch proje£l even upon the tops of the hills in fome plaices. The inland parts are but thinly inhabited, the natives pre- ferring thofe which are neareft the fea for the convenience of launching their canoes. This however muft not be taken in a general fenfe, for fome of the chiefs have their houfes a confiderable diftance from the fliore. • ■ / ' The houfes do not form tow^ j or vil- lages, • ( 89 ) lages, but are built about five hundred vards or more from each other, and gene- rally in the midft of a plantation, the whole of which is frequently fenced in with a hedge of bamboo, or reeds with a door-way -, and fometimes a man's whole eilate is inclofed in this manner. • ' , Thefe iflands are populous, but we cannot pretend to afcertain the number of inhabitants. Their produce is bread- fruit, plantains, bananas, cocoa-nuts, yams, tarrow, a kind of fweet potatoe of a yellow colour, a fruit refembling an ap- ple, which we never faw ripe, fugar cane, a nut finocarpus edulis^ Forji. Nov. Spec* PlantJ which eats much like a chefnut, particularly when roafted, and very fine ihaddocks. The latter were very plenti- ful at Middleburgh ; at Anamooka they were fcarce, but at Amfterdam there were none. They have alfo many trees in common with the Society Ifles 5 fuch as the \.02i-\xtQ fcafuarina equifetifolia^ Forfi.) the Chinefe paper mulberry-tree, the candle- J I! r.& fl % \ I « I I ifai||rl l,!l ■ < 9° ) candle- tree [aleurites triloba, Forft.) tlie Barringtonia fpeciofa, the athrodaSiilisfpi^ nofa^ and fcveral others. Their tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry ; they have likewife rats, and a Very large fpecies of bat {yefperiilio vam^ fyrusy Linnal) Lizards are very nu- merous, particularly about the houfes, and a large green lizard fomethlng like a guano, but fmaller. The natives never deftroy either of thefe, but fufFer them to run about immolcfled ; and when any - of our people through wantonnefs killed any of them (which frequently was the cafe) they always exprefled their difap- probation, by telling us it was very bad. Their birds are ducks, herons both white and grey, kingsfifhers, rails, doves and pigeons, parroquets, cuckows, and a very fmall fpecies of martin. The fea affords ^ variety of fifli, but they did not appear to be a very great article of food, at leaft during our flay. Both the green and hawk's- bill turtle are found here, and xnufl: ( 9« ) - muft be rather plentiful, if we liiay judge from the quantity of tortoife-fliell ■which they expofed to fale. There are variety of fhell-fifh, and fome of the moft beautiful little crabs that can be con- ceived. ^ • ' The people of both fexes are tall, well made, and exadtly proportioned. We did not fee one inftance of deformity amongft them. The men are in general above the middle fize, but now and then you meet with one below that ftandard ; the women are tall in proportion, and rather mafculine. Their complexion is dark olive, but in thofe who are expofed to the effeds of the weather it is much darker, while thofe whofe fuperior ftation in life entitles them to a greater degree of indulgence, are confiderably lighter. The natives of Fidgi of both fexes are greatly darker than any of the other iflanders, their complexion nearly ap- proaching to black. Tijeir ill . , V ( 92 ) . !: Tliclr features are generally good • their eyes bright and lively, their nofe fomewhat flat, their mouth and lips well proportioned, the former not being too wide, nor the latter too thick, and their teeth as white as ivory. Their hair is originally black, but both men and women have a method of drefT- ing it with lime and other materials, •which render it of various colours, brown, yellow, white, &c. We once faw an 0I4 man \7h0fc hair was of the deepell car- rotty colour. - • - . . ' Long hair is a mark of diftindion, and none are permitted to wear it but the principal people. The agee girls and •women let it hang in ringlets down to their waifts, and the men likewife wear it in the fame form. This is the only place where we faw fhaving in fafhion, for .the men, particularly the agees, are very anxious to free thcmfelves from their beards. This is performed with twcfliell^ whofc ■^m . t' . . ( 93 ) tvhofe outward furface is rather rough, and by rubbing the edges together, at the fame time inclofing the beard between the fhells, they cut it tolerably clofe. This operation however is rather pain- ful and tedious, and obferving how ex- peditious and clean we performed it, they were defirous of trying it alfo ; and it fo far exceeded their expedlations that fcarcc a day pafTed without plenty of cuftomcrs. They have a cuftom of anointing their heads, necks, and bofoms, with an oil which they call monoi', it is fqueezed from the kernel of the cocoa-nut, and after- wards perfumed very highly with various fweet-fcentcd flowers and herbs. . Both men and women are marked or tattowed ; the form'er from the fhort ribs to the knee, and fometlmes low^er, the latter upon the infide of the hand. Some of thefe marks feem to be to diftinguifh the different tribes to which they belong, the other poffibly are for ornament. The inftru- I ( 94 ) Inflruments ufed upon this occafion are nearly the fame as at Otaheitee. ./. Their cloathing confifts of mats of different degrees of finenefs, and cloth made of the Chinefc paper mulberry- tree. Both men and women drefs much alike. The better fort always wear a great deal more than their inferiors : their drefs confifts of one large piece of cloth wrap- ped feveral times round their middle, and tied with a fafh or girdle of the fame kind ; the upper part is plaited or folded, fo that it may be pulled up to the fliould- crs if neceflary, the bottom part reaches below the calf. Over this they put a fine mat, fimilar to what the natives of Otaheitee call pooerou. They wear no covering upon their feet or legs. Round their necks they frequently put a kind of ruff or necklace of flowers, or leaves of various kinds which are generally chofen for their fragrance or colour ; thefe or- naments they call cau-colla* Rings of ' •* -^ . 6 . ' tortoife- * .^. • ■'. it- m iml i -J V .^ ^ 1^ .1 f 95 y t»rtoife-flicll are very generally worn botli ^ by men and women. • .. : • ^ .. » The houfes of thefe people are of va- rious fizes and dimenfions, according to the wealth and degred of the poflcflbr. The roof, which is elevated upon fix or eight pofts, is well thatched, either with the branches of the cocoa-nut tree, or with thofe of the palm-tree. Some are open all round, but the major part are inclofed on one fide. The richer kind of people build their houfes in the midft of their plantations, which are fometimes of confiderable extent, and furrounded with a fence of bamboo. To thefe you enter by a door tied to a poft with a cord made of the braided fibres of the cocoa- nut ; this opens and fhuts as if hung up- on hinges. The floor is always covered with mats, upon which they fit in the day, and fleep in the night. Their fur- niture is not confiderable; it confifts of a large wooden difh, in which they mix their a'wa ; balkets of different forts and K < •i .1 ■t iiflifc i ii i ( 96 ) fizes, in which they put their combs, fifh- hooks, and tools ; two or three ftools, which they ufe as pillows, a bundle or two of cloth, and frequently a tame pigeon upon a ftick. , As thefe iflands produce the fame ar- ticles of food as the Society Ifles, of courfe there can be no great variation in their manner of living. Bread-fruit, yams, plantains, and tarrow, generally coiiflitute their meals ; for though they have hogs and fowls, they are only eaten upon par- ticular occafions. Their method of cook- ing them is the fame as at Otaheitee. Sometimes they drefs a few fifh ; thefe they boil in the green leaves of the plan- tain-tree, which fcrvc as a bag to hold both fifh and water. Having tied them up, they wrap them again in three or four other leavesrand place them upon a num- ber of ftones made hot for that purpofe, till they are done fufficiently. They then take out the fifli, and pour the foup into little cups made of the green plantain 4 ■ 1^^^ ■ ( 97 ) leaf, of which every one in company has one, and as they eat the fiih, they drink a little of the foup, till both are expend- ed. They are not very nice in cleaning the fifh, but eat bones^ guts, and fcales all' together* • ' • *> ^^-'> Their drink is water or coco nut milk,, in general: but the better fort of people always take a draught of awa before they eat ; we never faw them ufe it at any other time, and, even then, they are far more moderate than the people of Ota- heitee, and make it in a much cleanlier manner. ^ ■ — ^-^ There is a law or cuftom here, which forbids, at particular times, aperfoii of in- ferior rank to^ eat in the prefence of his iuperiors, and even Powlahow is not ex- empt from it ; for upon the unexpedcd appearance of thoie two before men- tioned people, whilft he has been eating, hz has immediately defifted, and put the viduals on one fide, apparently a good deal confufed. H They : Di! ( 98 ) They rife as foon as it 18 light, and the firil thing they do, is to wafli them- feives in the fea, and afterwards in frefh water, which they colled in fmall wells or pits dug for that purpofe. After this they fit down to their breakfaft, which, as has been before obferved, generally confifts of bread-fruit, yams, or plantains: this ended, every one amufes himfelf as he thinks proper. If there is any bufinefs going forward, that of courfe becomes the objeiEl : if not, they fit and difcourfe of indifferent things. As the heat of the day comes on, they for the moll part fleep. Their firft meal being fo early, they generally eat again about elever and in the afternoon about four. At eight in the evening, or as foon as it becomes dark, they fup, and foon after retire to reft. Their amufements are dancing, wreft- ling, finging, and boxing, at all which they are very expert. The dances of the women are generally if not always in the evening. ( 99 ) evening, and by torch-light. Upon this occafion they are always well drefled : their heads are decorated with wreaths, compofed of a plant fomething like ivy ; round their waift they wear an elegant piece of cloth, and over it a broad fringe of plantain leaves. The whole of this drefs is very becoming, and fets off theiir perfons, which are naturally good, to the greateft advantage. Their movements are very regular, and they keep excellent time to their mufic, which confifts of pieces of bamboo of various lengths, cut off at one of the joints. Thefe the men, who perform the inflrumental part, hold in their hands, and ftrike one end againft the ground i this emits a hollow found, deep in proportion to its length. One man likewife holds in one hand a piece of bamboo about three feet long, and with the other ftrikes it t^nth a fmall piece of ftick, keeping time with the other men ; this mufic is far from being dif- agreeable. The muficians fit together, . H 2 forming 1:1 ( ioo ) forming a fmall circle, and the women dance round them, and their attitudes and motions are beyond defcription. ' "i The men very rarely intermix in the women's dances, though we once law Po- lahow in the midflof them, and, notwith- (landing his corpulency, he kept as good time as the beft of them. Ther dances of the men differ very little from thofe of the women.; but in their grand hei- "vahs they fometimcs perform together. ■■- The muficians in this cafe are more nu- merous, and mod of them Hng, but not all in the fame key, for they have diffe- rent parts, as we have of treble, bafe, tenor, &c. ; and the harmony which arifes when the mufic and fmging are joined is very pleafing. Befides the bam- boo they have a kind of drum, formed out of the hollowed trunk of a tree, upon which they ftrike with wooden drum- Hicks : this, ftrange as it may appear, adds much to the agreeablcnefs of the whole. , .. ;^,.„ vr ( . ' .r, - " ; t. ■ Their ( loi ) * - Their grand heivahs feem to be divided into different ads : they firft begin with a dance of the men, which continues near a quarter of an hour ; and when finifhed, another large party of perfor- ' mers come in, and divide themfelves in- to two companies, not forming a circle as in the dances, but a line, with the mufic in front, fomething hke this : V 'i(> ,-^. if » Performers, '« Performers. i:^- .t .i i i . «.«""••. ' .:: ■ ". c/ \\ • • t • t * \\ .t, . , , %♦....•• .• ' ■ ■ ■' ^ 'V,' /..,•-:. r ':; • Mufic. - ^ • ' ■ Every performer has a fmall wooden inftrument in his hand, about three feet long, fliaped fomething like a baker's peel. As foon as the mufic llrikes up, they alfo begin and perform an incredible number of motions with this inftrument, H 3 all i Km li ;i ^ f. 102 ) all moving as if only one man, with great quicknefs, and in exad time, to the mufic. After this has continued about feven or eight minutes, they all, by very gradual and indeed almoft imperceptible degrees, change places, fo that thofe who were behind are now in front, and thofe who were in front, are now in the mid- dle, obferving the different attitudes and motions with the inftruments throughout the time. This continues till they have all regained their proper places, when the two companies recede from each other ftill farther, and foon after two men make their appearance, dreffed in a very antic manner, with each a kind of club in his hand. The various motions, adtions, and attitudes, which thefe two harlequins put themfelves into, together with the regularity and exadtnefs they obferve, are fuch as cannot be defcribed, and even if they could, perhaps would not be credited. During their perfor- mance, the two companies remain in- adive, ' ( '03 ) adive, but as foon as the harlequins are retired, they begin again, but vary in their performances, defcribing circles and femi- circles in this manner, /^ • 'K*'^";*- -*'^* 51 > • ///•••••vN/: •-/A Performcrst , irerformers. ' f . ..••*.^ Performers. V *'•.,. Performer«t ) 3 in .Ajf- Muiic. -/ U'ii**^-' «^.f ■*' ^ufic. :av:^; and exchange their places as before ; in fhort, the whole of their performance is fuch as docs the greateft credit, not only to thofe who bear a part in it, but to the people in general. '^^ ' Their wreftling matches are much like thofe of Otaheitee, as is their mode of challenging, viz. by ftriking with the hollow of their right hand upon the bend- ed joint of their left elbow, which pro- duces a loud hollow found, fomething refembling that of a child's pop-gun ; it will be therefore unneceffary to fay more about it. H 4. When .('04 ) ' When a man gives a challenge to box, he throws out his arms, firft his right and then his left, feveral times, as if ftriking at fomebody, at the fame time dancing as it were round the circle (for a circle is moft commonly formed of the fpeda- tors.) If any one accepts it, he gets up and does the fame, after which they fall to, and generally give and receive very fevere blows, till one or other owns him- felf vanquifhed ; but if one chances to knock down the other, the conteft is im- mediately at an end. The vidtor, either in wreflling or box- ing, receives a kind of plaudit from the company. The women frequently en- gage in theTe boxing matches, and fome- times deal heavy blows. But this kind of diverfion amongfl: the female fex did pot altogether coincide with our ideas of delicacy, and we expreffed our difapprq- tation of it, which had fo good an effeO;, that \v'e never faw it a fecond time. Another (105 ) : : Another kind of divernon they have;,. fometh,ng finiilar to our cuH„ I , -'/■n,ie„offtict.the";e' f'"''^• ;;'hehotto.p„,„,//^^^'^^^^^^^^^ COCO nut fr/^o 1 • , ^^ t"e "uc tree, which is harr? o j ^-f • With thefe they 1 "^' -hotherforaconfiderabieteT '^^'^ great dexterity in w» ^ " '^ P-yingthebloJitL'"^'''^^"'' ''"^ they fo^eti^es get ^^irr'"'-' "bout the head and in K ^ '""^^'' g'eat good-nature that ' ^^''"^^'^ i"^nceofah,owLf;;;:;7^-- mentioned dance, are L ^'^"'' »-"-nt of the icing a^dh '""- «-y of whon. fi;;' '"^ "°Wity, then,, and fomet JeTpZ^ "''''' '" ^^Wafidefora^:^::';^'^^^'''-^ his women. ""'■ dances with ■^heir finging h^^ ,^ Pientioned before i„„ ,^ °ccafionaJ(y ^°"-.L«t.hwcomp,onfcngs are I V. n It' ii M' ^ . ( io6 ) are very different from thofe fung at tlieir heivahs. In thefe there are no feparate parts, but the whole is fung in one tuneV they have a greater variety of notes than the people of Otaheitee, and thofe who fing (generally two or three girls, and fometlines a man and a girlj fnap their fingers throughout the whole of the fong, which feems to be by way of keeping time. ^ ' ' -^ - ^ , Their mufical inftruments are drums, flutes, pieces of bamboo, as before ob- ferved, and a kind of pipe fimilar to the jyrinx\ or Jijiula agrejlis of the ahcients. The flutes are made of a joint of bamboo, about eighteen inches long, and clofed at both ends. They have four holes, one at each end, and on each fide, io that either end may be ufed: to three of thefe holes they apply the middle finger cf the left hand, and the thumb and middle finger of the right ; the other they apply to the right or left noftril, as at Otaheitee. The tunes which they play upon I >07 ) upon them, though not various (at leaft our ears were not nice enough to diftin- guilh any very material difFerence) are both pleafing and mufical. .. jqxj ojs The pipes arc compofed of feven or eight joints of reed of unequal lengths, and fecured together by the fibres of the coco nut. Though this inftrument was very common amongft them, we feldom faw them ufe it. Chaftity among thefe iflanders is not much regarded as a virtue ; for, except moft of the Agee girls, who were proof Againft every temptation that was offered them, there were very few that had the leaft obje£lion to a private interview. The manufadlures are clcth, mats, and balkets. The former is made of the Chi- nefe paper mulberry-tree, and undergoes the fame prccefs as at Otaheitee, only the inftrument ^lade ufe of in beating it out is not grooved but plain. They print it in various patterns, Vv'ith a kindof ftarap made of reed or cane ; the colours they make \ f i!M , ..V; make ufe of are brown and black, but both very indifferent. They have alfo a light yellow dye, but we never had an opportunity of learning its compo- fition. Their mats are of two or three different kinds ; one is made of a fpecies of fan Janus, the fame as that of Otahei- tee ; another of a fpecies of hibifcus, and a third either of the leaves of the coco nut or palm-tree. Thofe made of the hibif- cus are the flrongefl and by far thefinefl ; they are chiefly w^rn by the better fort of people, and are fringed all round. The people of the Society Ifles call thofe Poo- -erou ; the name at thefe illands is Naffe- naffe. Of their bafkets they have various kinds, which differ greatly in their fhape, ufe, andfize. Some jf them are made of the fame materials as their mats, but the beft and flrongefl are formed of the twiflcd or rather braided fibres of the coco nut, which they dye black and brown in dif- ferent fhades. Some of thefe they deco- rate 0t le d ( 109 ) rate with a kind of white bead, and rows > of red feathers, t/hich make them look elegant enough. Of the coco nut fibres they alfo make ropes and lines of different degrees of thicknefs. That of which they make their fifhing nets is as fine as fmall pack- thread, but this is the produdtiori of the bark of another tree. Some of thefe nets are of the fame form as our caftinfj nets, and ufed in the fame manner j in lieu of lead they faden ftones round the bottom: the needles with which they make them are alfo like our's. Their fifh-hooks are much like thofe of Otaheitee ; their fhank is compofed of mother of pearl, and the hook part is frequently tor toife- (hell. Their tools are hatchets of various fizes, made of a hard dark- coloured ftone ; files, made of fifh-fkin ; and a drill, made exact- ly upon the fame plan as thofe ufcd by our blackfmiths. ■ >' "■' '■ ' The IN II tl i !!' ; i» I ! ^ ( iio ) The canoes of thefe iflands are, without exception, the beft we ever faw : the double ones are made large enough to carry fifty or fixty people, and fail at a great rate. Upon them they generally fix or eredt a hut or (hed, which is f(Dr the leception of the mafter and hie wives and family. They are all made of the bread-fruit tree, which is an ex- ceeding light wood : the workmanfliip is very neat, and they appear on the outfide as if compofed of one fbfid piece ; but upon clofer infpedion, you find that they confift of a great number, which fit exadly one with the othf., and by xneans of a ledge on the infide are fea- tured together with coco nut line. The fingle ones are furnidied with an out- rigger. The large canoes are taken great care of, and generally put into a houfe built on purpofe. The burial places of thtie people are called AfEa-tooka, and every family of 5 difiiadion o )r le K- 18 ie lit at fit he it- :at ire of 3n { '» ) diftiii£lion has one belonging to It. Thefe repofitories of the dead are generally ere(fied in fome retired fpot, and furround- ed with trees of a particular kind, fuch as thocafuarifia and athrodaSiylis. The ground is elevated in the form of a mount, about three or four feet high, upon the top of which are built three or four clofe huts with a fmall door-way : in thefe they depofit the bodies, and leave them. The mount is fometimes enclofed with a wooden fence, and fometimes with ftones. Thefe places are in general about one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet in circumference, but fome are much larger, and very neatly finiflied. Of the ceremonies attending a funeral ,e can fay but very little, as only one, thri we know of, occurred during our flay, and of this only one of our people got an accidental view. He was defirous of feeing the whole, but they^ were quit^ averfe to an indulgence of that kind. •U]^.jii this occafion, he faid feveral of .them, both men and women, wore a wreath. i ii ■I] '1 ( ii« ) wreath, made of a twining kind of plant^- round their necks and waifls; and by their lamentations and gefturcs, he judged them to be relations of the deceafed. All the information we could get of the native relative to thefe affairs is, that upon the dcw )f a perfon, all the rela- tions aflemble together, and make a dif- mal howling, beating themfelves upon their cheek-bones with their fills till the blood runs. This is looked upon as a great mark of affedion, and the more they torture themfelves in this manner the greater efteem they are fuppofed to have entertained for the deceafed. They alfo cut off the firft joint of their little-finger ; the right-hand finger is dedicated to the father, the left to the mother. Cutting off the hair is alfo another of their mourn- ing ceremonies. Thefe people believe the exiftence of the foul in a feparate flate, and that after desth they go to a very pleafant place, much fuperior to that which they enjoy . i • during ' / , - ■. ( "3 ) during life ; for they fay it abounds with every good thing they can poffibly wiflll for : but thefe blifsful abodes are, accord- ing to them, entirely for the refidence of the agees, thofe of inferior rank not being fuflFered to have any fhare in them. '^, The form of government, with refpe and we remonftratcd with him as well as we could, on the cruelty of killing a man who had committed no fault ; his anfwer was, that he was only a flave, and fit for nothing elfe. Whilfl: we lay at Middleburgh, a man fitting very unconcerned, atid looking on Simidft the croud of people that fur- rounded our market-place on ihore, wai5 on a fudden attacked by three or four peo- ple armed with clubs, who broke one of his thighs, fradured his fkull in a ter- rible manner, and in Ihort di^atched him. •This affair Shocked us a good deal, as it -had the appearance of barbarity and crtt- eUy in the higheft degree ; but, upon en- quiry, we found that the man had carried ion an intrigue with the wife of an agee, i^ho, in confequcnce of (Ufcovering it, had ^k*jii.j» •■ . 'Kfc ' >':r " ... lent ( i'7 ) fent fome of his people with orders to difpatch him wherever they found him.'^' Thcfe people are feldom at war except with the natives of Fidgi (an ifland men- tioned before), whom they are much afraid of, and in general get terribly worfted. They told us thefe people were cannibals; an account which can fcarce be credited, confidering the amazing fertility of the ifland, which our friends told us abounded with every good thing. This report however was not confined to a few people, for every one, upon being afked, agreed in tlie ftory. The weapons ufed at the Friendly Ifles are clubs and fpears : the former made of the cafurina^ or toa-tree, which is an exceeding hard and heavy wood, and are in general curioufly carved j their length is from three to four feet. The fpears are of different lengths, and barbed in various directions with the bones of the fting- ray, which muft render them a moft de- ftru^ive weapon. They have likewife I 3 bows ( 1.8 ) bows and arrows, but never ufe tbem In war, confining them entirely to (hooting at a mark. The natives of Fidgi, on the contrary, make them a principal weapon, and it is to this alone that thefe people afcribe their fuperiority ; which circum- ftance one would think mig;ht induce them at leaft to try the experiment. The weather, during our ftay at Ana- mooka, was very unfettled, and part of the time it rained very hard ; the winds were variable. At Amfterdam it was in general fine, but at Middleburgh we had much rain, with frelh gales from the 1^. E. '*■ /'■ .•, U' ■:'.W/ r A' ' CHAP, 1 ( "9 ) CHAP. X. Leave the Friendly IJles — the Difcovery carries away her main-top-nwji in a^ fquall — difcover an ijland'—fome of the natives put off^-a Jhort dejcription of them and the ijland — continue our courfe to Ot^neitee — and anchor in Ohitapeab harbour^^receive intelligence of the Spa" niards having been there-^who had ereSi" ed a houfe and crofs m pore — leave three of their people there ^ and depart for Li" • ma — they return^ and after a fiortjiay take away thofe they had left — - and again depart for Lima — Orette^ the friend of Mr, Bougainville^ vijtts us""-' fome account of the place-^the Morai of Wyedtuah — ungenerous behaviour of the Spaniards refpeSiing us ^^ leave Ohita" peah^ and arrive at Matavai bay-^Otoo vifits the captains. i'.y^x ON July the 17th at noon, the ex- tremes of Middleburgh bore from N, N. E. to S. E. by S. our diftance from the neareft Ihore about three miles. Orx %^r>. y ' : I 4 • : . -■ the t 'I ■\r % ( 120 ) the 20th, the variation of the compafs was 8 dcg. 5 1 min. eafterly. From this time to the 28th, nothing material oc- curred ; but on the 29 th, at half pad Hx in the evening a violent and heavy fquall came on, which carried away the Difco- very's main-top-maft. This reduced them to the neceffity of putting up a jury-maft, which job was not completed till Auguft the 2d, in the afternoon. Auguft the 7th, we found the variation to be 7 min. eaft- erly, and on the 8th, at half paft eleven in the morning, being in latitude 23 deg. ^j S. and longitude 209 deg. 52 min. £. we faw land bearing N. N. E. of which the Difcovery made the fignal to the Re- folution. At noon, it was about ten or twelve leagues diftant ; but not being able to reach it, in any reafonable time, we flood upon our tacks for the night. The next day we ftood in for it, and at eight founded, and got ground from eighteen to thirty fathoms, the bottom fine fand, about a quarter of a mile from a break in the reef which furrounded the ifland. !,!./ " Some ( 121 ) Some of the natives put ofF In two of their canoes, and came within about a hundred yards of the (hips ; they made many figns to us, and their language fecmed to refcmble that of the Society Ifles. By their figns they Teemed to wifh us to depart ; one of them founded a conk fhell, and at the fame time the reft brandifhed their paddles, rather in a threatening and menacing manner. We endeavoured by every means to perfuade them to come on board, but vvrithout ef- fea. They were ftout well made people, of the dark olive complexion ; their hair was black and long, and fome few had it tied in a knot upon the top of their heads. Three or four had large pearl oyfter (hells fufpended from their necks by way of or- nament. The natives on ftiore appeared to be numerous, and fome of them were clothed in white ; one or two of thofe in the canoes had only a fmall ftrip of cloth round their waift. Their ) t.,; J. m ffi ( 122 ) Their canoes were neat; the gunwale was decorated with white fhells, which had a pretty efFedl : theii paddles were like thofe of the Friendly Ifles, only not terminating in a point, hut on the con- trary quite round. The ifland had a pleafr.nt appearance ; the interior parts rofe in moderately high hills, which were covered with verdure to the top. Along the fliores w^re borders of low land which were well clothed with trees, particularly the crco-nut tree. Off the weftern fide there was a break in the reef, apparently wide enough to ad- mit a fhip with fafety. The natives call this ifland Toobooi. At nine we made fail and bore away, keeping a N. E. courfe, our obfervcd latitude at noon being 23 deg. 9 min. S. On the 13th r.f Auguft, at half paft five in the morning, we faw the ifland Mai- tea, bearing N. by W. and at feven de- fcried Otaheitce, bearing W. by N. ^ N. At noon the extremesof Otaheitee-etc, or — •- ^' > . , . ~ , the ,1 V: ( ^23 ) the leffer iflj ad, bore \V. I S. and S. \V.- by W. diftant about fix leagues; our cbferved latitude being i 7 deg. 44 miu. S. At fix Ohirapeah harbour bore S. W. diftant two miles, As we approached the land, the winds became light and variable, being aiFeded by the furrounding moun- tains, Captain Cook therefore thought it • moft advifeable to ftand off and on for the night, and take the advantage of the morning to get in. At day-light, the entrance of Ohitapeah harbour bore S. by W. fix or feven miles diftant, and at tea we anchored, in thirty-two fathoms, and foon after moored fhip. The (hips were fcarcely anchored, be- fore numbers of the inhabitants came off to us, and prefenily recoUeded feme of their old acquaintance, at the fight of whom they expreffed great joy and fatif- fadion ; and it might be fuppofed, that they were equally happy in feeing their countryman Omai returned after fo long a voyage. — On the contrary, they fcarce took :j 1 I Ifl '••'' ;'J. '; i M It i;-' it •i I ( 124 ) took any notice of him, and had he not dealt out his prefents of red feathers, &c. pretty largely, it is pofTiblc they would not have fpokc to him. The next day, after fome general enquiries, we found that Oberea and Wycatuah (who was king of* Otaheitec-ete, orTiarraboo, when Captain Cook was laft here) were dead ; and that fome other (hips had been there fome time after the Refolution's departure. This information of courfe excited our cu- riofity a good deal, and we enquired more particularly into it. They told us, that about the latter end of the year 1774, there arrived two fhips from Remah (by which we fuppofcd they meant Lima^,) that the people who came in them flaid between three and four months, and had ereded a houfe on (hore. During their refidence, the commander, whofe name was Oridde, died, and was buried on fhore fome little diftance from the houfe. At the departure of the fliips, they took with them four of the natives, who voluntarily offered offered to go, and left behind them a young man called Marteemo, and two priefts. At the end of about two months they returned aud brought with them only one of the natives ; two having died at Lima, and the other choofing to remaia ihere. They appeared this fecond time to be in a great hurry, and after a fliort ftay (during which time they were employed in wooding and watering,) tot . back Marteemo and the two priefts, leaving ftri£t orders with Wyeatuah to take care of the houfe, &c. as th intended to re- turn in a fhort time ; buc however they never made their appearance again. . Thefe were the heads of our informa- tion, which, as Omai was our interpreter, might come fomething near the truth. J The houfe, which was a wooden one, was divided into two rooms, one behind the other ; the windows, or rather port- Jioles, opened aud (hut in the infide with Aiders. It is likely that the houfe was '. made m '^■■^i m i' i 1 1 11 1 ll li ll III 1 i yl 1 ( 126 ) made at the place from whence the (hips came, as every plank was numbered. The furniture was very inconfiderable, con- filling of a table, two or three ftools, an old tub, on old gold laced hat, and a few other trifling articles. At fome diftance, in the front of the houfe, upon the fpot ^here the commander was buried, was creded a large crofs with this carved in- fcription upon it, Chrtftus vincit, Carolus tertius imperat, Captaia Cook ordered it to be taken down, and the follow- ing words to be put upon it, Georgius ter^ tins annis 1767, 69, 74, 79. ^ Marteemo, as far as we could under- ftand, was a very fenfible clever young man, and held in much efteem by the na- tives. It feems probable, that he was left there with a view of learning the language, manners, and cuftoms of the country ; in the former he told us he was very intelligent. The two priefts no doubt were to endeavour to make conv^ ;ts, but they did not appear to be very fuccefsful, for ( 127 ) for we could dlfcover no traces of the good effed of their apoftolical miffion ; and it is not unlikely, but that the re- verend fathers might be fo far led aftray by the good things of the ifland, and the condefcenfion of its female inhabitants, as totally to forget the bufinefs they were fent upon. The man who had been at Lima, was frequently on board the fhips, and very readily anfwered any queftions we put to him relatiyiie to his treatment, &c. there. He appeared to like the Spaniards very well, but frequently expreffed his furprize at their not having red feathers (which are with thefe people the Jummum bonum and extent of all their wifties) as well as us. In this refpe(5t we were very fortunate, having -laid in a good ftock at the Friendly Ifles. Among many of our daily vifitors was a man called Orettee, who was an old taio of M. Bougainville's : feldom a day paffed without this man's dining on board of the Ihips, where he generally con- trived ififl i \ ' ( ia8 ) trived to get drunk. Of our female vi- fitors, a woman whofc name was Poorahi was the principal ; (he became captaia Gierke's taio, and exchanged names with him. She generally had a fine young girl with her, whofe name was Outopah, of a mod winning and engaging beh»< viour. As our flay at this place was not of any long continuence, getting out the Dif* covery's maft was poftponed till we ihould arrive at Matavai Bay. We were how- ever conftantly employed in getting in water, and flarting that which we took in at the Friendly ifles : our armourers too were continually employed at the forge, in making trade of various forts for the purchafing of provifiona. The face of the country here exhibits a very different appearance from that of the Friendly Ifles. Mountains and vafties, hills and dales, and in fhort every thing confpire to form the moft romantic views imaginable ; while at AmAerdam, &c. you . ,;-;t ft had f ' 61' h' ( 129 ^ ^ had only one continued tra£t of Iqw level land. At a little diftance from the fhips wa$ a remarkably pleafant valley, which ran winding between the mountains to a great diftance ; in the mid^ of it is a fine l>ream ' of water, which at the head of the valley takes its rife from a beautiful cafcade that appears to burfV out of the rocks. On each fide the flream are placed the houfes of the natives, interfperfed with plantations of bananas, coco-nuts, bread- fruit, and a kind of apple tree j the lofty hills on each fide, whofe tops reach be- yond the clouds, the variety of birds which are continually flying from place to {^ace, and the noife of the falling water^ re-echoed by the furrounding hills, afford a fcene ftriking beyond defcription. Ohitapeah is the principal place of Ota- heitee-ete, being the refidence of the king and moft of the principal people The prefent king is a minor, and fon to the late Wyeatuah ; be is about ten years pld, and is a fine lively fenfible boy. Vol. I. K, The m !.1 ■'i m (' '30 ) • Tlie mofai of the late king ftands up- on the banks of a rivulet not far from the Spanifti houfe ; it is very neatly fenced in with bamboo, and the corpfe is placed upon a kind of bier, and wrapped up in ^ a great quantity of cloth, over which are fptead feveral pieces of fcarlet woollen cloth, which had been given him by the Spaniards His houfe is at a little diftance from the morai, but almoft tumbled to pieces, for thefe people never repair or live in the hoiiife of any one that is dead ; that and every thing belonging to it being raa, as they call it ; which word has nearly the fame meaning as taboo at the Friendly Ifles, and means unlawful, or forbid. This word is ufed on many occafions ; for in- ftance, if you aik any of the women to eat while the men are prefent, they will Ihake their heads, and fay it is maa raa, or meat which they are forbid to eat. Thefe good people notwithftanding they fupplied us very largely with every produce of the place, yet, in feveral re- t^.u" A^ .« fpe6l$, r !:■ *• c J//yer.n7i//'. ^f y/f/m of ^^/^Tf/u'itfY //f r/o "y/otn/tfm/y^t^ ^ !!?■ Piiblilbed Decri4*i78i, l)v ORobinibn ■»:; ( U' ) fpw'ds bad loft that degree ot cordiality for us, vhich was experienced in the courfe of the former voyage. This we had great reafon to attribute to the infinuations and mal practices of the Spaniards, who (if the natives are to be relied on) took every method to leflen that frieridfliip and good opinion, which they faw thefe peo-* pie entertained of us, by reprefenting U3 as a fet of idle piratical people, who lived entirely by plunder ; that we had no place of abode, but were obliged to cruize about from place to place to procure a living, with many other circumftancea equally falfe and unjuft. • The behaviour of the Spaniards during their ftay was truly charaifteriftic ; fcarce any of the natives were permitted to en-* ter the great cabin, and not a womaii was fufFered to come on board ; the com-* mander never went on fhore without a guard to receive him, which, with the ad-* vantage they had over us in fine fcarlet cloths (for the people of Otaheitee, like f ^ K 2 moft \ l.z 'j./'-y: {• V ■s lahXfnr:-: ..;{-:■ •''!»>' •• ■ \ - ■ ir^ ^^" ;(;'»■ ;■. ■ ' ' .1 JT!*.;r: r'-' •..vu ■. ''y.:y '<: ".. ,,">i='f^ '■i-i.tto:ir . It ^ .■ : ' . V .• «- - if- V. ^-1 ■•^. (I .V 1'^-'% V::.!.i ') h i»i ^T ' ; • ■' ' ' CHAP, VVU; (135 ) C H A P. Xr. .-'i^^m-r Omai finds his fifter married-— her hujhandts hehaijiour — he is led into temptation, and turned out ofthejhip — the natives very in^ genious at fabricating ftories — an injlance of it — the people of Otaheitee engaged in a war with thofe of Imaio — the caufe of thai war — a human fa crifice is offered to the god of war by Tohaw-^fome de^ ' fcription of the place of fa crifice — Tohaw ^ and his friends Potatow and Tapaow^ fail for Imaio — Otoo's behavidur^^is threatened by Tohaw — we fail fr Imaio I ' • ;« m—the natives fieal two of our goats-^ « arrival at Huaheine — lofe one of our qua" * ■ ' drants — the thief taken — threatens Omai^ and his again confined — but makes his efcape— 'arrival at XJriatea — two of our people leave thejlnps — are at length taken- —leave XJriatea, andficerfor Bora-bora '-^fame account of the focieiy of Arreois, OMAI found his fifler married and fettled here, who received him very cordially and affedionately, but her huf- * band, who was quite of the inferior fet of K 4 people, ii^ W If m \ ( 136 ) people, would not condefcend or deign to fpeak to him. But he Ibon altered his be- haviour, for finding that Omai was pof- felfed of many valuables, he then received him with open arms, and was continually with him, both on board and on fhore. An unlucky circumftance however hap- pened, for being one day on board the Refolution in the great cabin, juft before dinner, a knife and fork attra^ed his no- tice (b much as to induce him to conceal them. It was foon difcovere-i that the ufual number was not there, and the Captain's fufpicion immediately refting upon him, he was fearched and the things found, for which he got a good flogging, and was turned out of the (hip. Captain Cook "wifhed much to have fettled Omai at this place, and put him under the protedion of Otoo i but he never would hear of it, and declared that he would remain no where but at Huaheine. His reafon for fixing upon this ifland in particular was, be- caufc its fituation he faid was very con- venient^for him, to chaflife the infolence of ( »37 ) of the Bora-bora men, for whom he has the moft inveterate hatred. Omai had been very lavifh of his things at Ohitapeah, and he alio dilhibuted them here in a manner that a good deal dif- pleafed Captain Cook, who often advifed -him to be more frugal, but without efFe<5t. The people at this place did not appear much to like him, and frequently turned up their nofes at him as he pafTed along : but at length Tohaw (the lord high admi- ral, as we ufed to call him), who was a man of a fine generous fpirit, took a great deal of notice of him, gave him two or three fervants, and was very de- firous of his living with him, but Omai would not liflen to reafon. • ^- '• / ' We were nowconftantly vifitedbyniany of the principal arees, among whom were Oammo (hufband to the late queen Obe- rea), Potatow, and Tohaw. On the z^th inftant, fome people from Ohitapeah came on board the Difcovery, and informed the Captain that two Spa- niih I. nil ■•:'\m ■< !l! •;! Pi fx ( '38 ) , tiilli Ihips had arrived at that place on the preceding evening. Ke immediately waited upon Captain Cook, and related the information he had received : whilft they were difcourling of the affair, one of the Indians introduced himfelf, and faid he had actually been on board one of the fhips, and that the clothing which he then had on, was given him by one of the commanders. Jt appeared to be perfed- ly new, which, with the" many protefta- tions and affurances the man made re- fpeding the truth of the report, induced Captain Cook to fend a boat, with an of- ficer, attended by this genius, who volun- . tarily offered to conduct them, to afcer- tain the truth : in the interim both veffels were cleared for action, in cafe the Dons fhould think proper to attack us. On the evening of the 29th the boat returned, having looked into Ohitapeah harbour, where there was not the leaft appearance of a {hip, confequently the whole was nothing more than a ftory which thefe ./ ingenious ^!).::: ( 139 ingenious people had contrived to hatch up. Indeed their conductor was fo fen- fible of this, that he took the fir ft oppor- tunito of making his efcape by jumping overboard, and by that means, in all pro- bability, efcaped a good kicking. We found our friends engaged in a war with a neighbouring ifland, called Imaio, or York Ifland, which, as far as we could learn, appeared to be an old af-< fair. When Captain Cook wa$ at Ota- heitee, in the courfe of his laft voyage, they were preparing a very formidable fleet to attack that ifland, which formerly was tributary to Otaheitee, but revolted fome years fmce. Soon after the depar- ture of the Refolution they failed, and upon landing their forces a briflc engagq- rnent enfued, and our friends entirely routed them, and obliged them to fly to the mountains. They foon after fued for peace, and very gladly accepted of it upon any terms ; when it was agreed ^hat one of Tohaw's family fhould refide therQ '■■if n) ■4 '<: 1 ii; i ( HO ) there as governor. This they readily aflented to, and for fome time appeared perfedly Satisfied ; but it did not con- tinue long, for by degrees they began to difpute the authority of their new gover- nor, and, at laft difpatched him. This was the caufe of the prefent war ; and in confequence of it, on the evening of the ift of September, Tohaw offered a human facrifice to their god of war, whom they call Oro. Thefe kinds of religious rites we find are cuftomary things amongll them upon any particular occafion. The perfon facrificed is always one of the low- eft and moft ufelefs perfon they can find : he is totally ignorant of the affair, till the perfons who are fent to difpatch him ar- rive, when they knock him on the head without any hefitation. The body is then conveyed to the place of facrifice with great form and ceremony. This place feems to be fet apart entirely for religious affairs of this nature : on one fide was a houfe for the rcfidence of the priefts. • ( 141 ) priefts, at ijbme diftance from which was a large piece of board elevated upon two polls rudely carved, upon which were placed feveral hogs and dogs that probably were killed upon this bccafion. Near this was a kind of flat fhed raifed upon four pods, and decorated all round near the top with garlands made of particular kind of trees, fuch as the emotoo, awa, and etee, and upon its top feveral bunches of plaintains and coco-nuts were placed. On one fide was a kind of altar formed of ftone, and raifed about two feet from the furface of the ground, upon various parts of which were fixed thofe rude kinds of carvings that are ufually to be diftinguifhed near morais, and in the midft of thefe were a number of human fkulls, which belonged to thofe who had former- ly been facrificed. Near the houfe were two large drums, upon which two men were almofl continually drumming during the ceremony. The prieft takes out one of the eyes, which he offers to the god, at the fame time making a long prayer, im- 2 ploring i^ WM H ^ '!i m vl;,*| m 'm II mmWi ii m 'ii :i'< ' Kl i ( H2 ) ploring his protedion during the war, and begging that vidory may crown their arms, after which the body is interred. As it was Tohaw's relation whom the people of Imaio had murdered, he of - courfe was the moft adlive man, and had made great preparations ; Otoo, Potatow, and another chief whofe name was Ta- paow, were alfo to aflift him. On the 19th, the two latter, with Tohaw, failed for Imaio, whilft Otoo was to mufter his forces and join him the next day. Ac- cordingly there was a review of his war canoes ; after which, inftead of going to the affifiance of Tohaw, as wa6 expeded, they all departed to the feveral diftrids to which they belong ; the confequence of which was, the admiral and his friends were very roughly handled, and oblig- ed to make off in the beft manner they could. This behaviour of Otoo enraged old Tohaw exceedingly, who declared ven- geance againft him, and even threatened to dethrone him, which he faid it was no ,/.., ,..-. j very f ig- |hey old ien- led no [cry ( '43 ) very difEcult matter to compafs, as Wye- atuah, the young king of Tiarraboo, is his nephew ; and their combined ibrces might eafily give him a fhock which he . would not readily get the better of. On the 29th of September, in the af- ternoon, /after taking leave of all our old friends at Matavai,both veffels weighed and made fail, accompanied by Omai in a large double canoe, which he had purchafed there. Soon after we bore away to get clear of the reef, and at fix, being a good diftance from it, we brought to for the night, with the main-top-fail to the maft. At day- light we made fail, fleering a due courfe for Imaio, which then bore about W.S. W. At eight we were pretty near it, and there being a fine bay a-head, the boats were got out to fee if there was a fufficient depth of water for the fhips. At ten they returned with an account of its affording excellent accommodations; we therefore ftood in for it, and at eleven both fhips anchored in about feven fathom water, n 1 ( -l 1% {■■ ^i 1 m * I! t (144) water, with a muddy bottom, the Refolu- tion being on the eaflern fhore, the Dif- covery on the weflern. It was till this time a matter of doubt, whether this ifland afforded any ftieher for veffels, but we TiOW found, that a little farther to the eaft- ward there was another {larbour equally as convenient as this. On Thurfday (Odober the 2d), in the morning the king the ifland, whofe name is Mahine, vifiied the captains ; he 4 was attended by feveral people, and two or three handfome women. He appeared to be above forty, was above the middle fize, and rather fat ; he had many fears upon his body, and has loft one eye, all which he fays are the conf :quences of the many wars he has been engaged in. He has a fon who he intends to fucceed him, pro- vided he can become independent J but the people of Otaheitee will probably always be too powerful fpr him, and of courfe put in a king of their own chooiing. « ' ••■ .;:.] 'w- , --■. . ■' . We m ( i4S ) Wc here heard of the death of OammOi hf fome people who had followed the fhips from Otaheitee, who had been ill feveral days before our departure. j On Monday evenifig (Sept. yth), the natives dole one of the Refolution's goats, which, with our other live ftock, had been fent on fhore to graze : the large cutter^ with an officer, in the morning was dif- patched to Mahine's refidence, to in- form him of the theft, and beg that he would exert his authority, and aiLft us to recover it. In the evening he returned with the goat, and the perfon who had ftolen it ; who, in order to ftrike him ^th fome degree- of terror, was, by order t)f Captain Cook, put into irons .• . But thefe ingenious people did not reft here, for during the abfence of the above boat, they ftole another. This proof of their dexterity greatly difpleafed Captain Cook, who, the next day, fent two ftrong parties on fhoie, well armed, with orders to deftroy fome of their canoesi &c. and Vol. I. L fm6« i ■ 1 i fin ,1 '•) in i V,l 11 ■ !|! I i (146 ) fince lenient mcafures proved inefFeduaT, he was determined to aft with fome de- gree of feverity. One or two of their houfes were burnt, and feveral hogs brought ofiF; which mode of conduct alarmed them fo much, that the day after the goat was returned. -'■■ Having completed our wood and water, and get every thin^ on board, we weighed our anchors, and ftood out of the harbour. - Imaio is, without exception, the moft pleafant of all the Society Tiles. Its ap- pearance is truly romantic, and it abounds with a variety of landlcapes that are de- lightful beyond defer iption : it is divided nearly in the centre by a range of moun- tains, that rife in a variety of forms, ap^ pearing like old ruined caftles or churches. At the bottom of them is a large tradt of moderately high land, interfperfed with groves of various trees ; on one fide of this the land makes a fudden break, and forms a moft delightful valley, beyond which • the fcene is beautifully contrafted, and i . ^ ' the wl \ i ■ ( H7 ) rtie view clofed by fevetall Irregilar moilri* tains. The next courfe wfc fleered was for Hu-* iiheinei which we foon reached, and an- chored in Owharte harbour. Here the aftrondtner's tents, as well sis thofe be- longing to the (hips, were again pitched 5 and, having the convenience of a large hoiife. Captain Cook ordered all the bread, which was in a very rotten and bad condition 4 to be got on ihore and dried. As this was the ifland which Omai fixed Upbn for his refidence, the carpenters were fet to work to ered him a houfe to contain his valuables, which would by no means have been fecure in one of his Own country, and in the courfe of -a few days it was completed. Our reception at this ifland was very friendly ; and one of the principal men, whofe name was Mahine, fupplied the Difcovery with abundance of hogs, fowls^ and very fine bread-fruit j the latter fuperior to any we had ever met with before* -^W- . ^ if ; L 2 One •I ■VJA I, 1 1 '1 :i till I II u I m '< ( H8 ) . ' One evdning we were alaf riied on board by the firing of a mufket from the fhore, and obferving moft of the natives running about in great confufion, we immediately fufpcded fome theft had been committed ; boats from both fhips were fent to en- quire into the caufe of this uproar, and upon their return we found our conjec- tures proved true, for fomebody had ftolen a quadrant from one of the aftronomers tents, which being enclofed in a box, and not put in fo fecure a place as it ought to have been, ibme of thofe ingenious peo- ple had contrived to carry off. This was a lofs which could not be put up with ; ftrid fearch therefore was made after the thief, and with much trouble and difficul- ty he at lafl: was caught, carried on board the fliip, and put in irons ; the quadrant was found, concealed amongft fome high grafs, about a quarter of a mile from the tents. The man, after undergoing fome hours confinement, receiving a fevere flogging, and having his head (haved *'■ 9 (which s ( H9 )' (■which is ail operation they are by no means fond cf), was difchargeci j but no fooner was he on fliore than he declared vengeance againft Omai, who had been very adive in fccuring him, and threaten- ed to burn his houfe 3nd deftroy him. In fa£t, feveral attempts of this kind were made durmg the night, and poor Omai was obliged to be very circuinfpe(fi, and careful in keeping watch. Not con- tent with this, the villain deftroyed feve- ral grape vines, which Omai had brought from the Cape of Good Hope, and which he was particularly ar^xious to preferve ; thefe were planted upon the fide of a hill, not far from his houfe, and in all probability would have fucceeded very well in their growth. Complaints were made to Captain Cook of thefe outrages, who, anxious for the fafety of Omai, and fearing that if this man remained upon the illand^ fome mifchief would enfue, determined to take an opportunity of fecuring and conveying L 3 him i ; I t ) f'l It i r ' I' ( HO ) , him on board, with an intent to leava him upon fome of the iflands we might fall in with, in our way to the northward, This plan was accordingly put in execu- . tion, and the gentleman confined in irons; but a day or two after, by fome means or other, which never could be Tound out, he contrived to make his efcape. Cap- tain Cook ftrongly fufpedled that fome- body on board the Ihip had fet him at liberty, which it is more than probable was the cafe. ' During our ftay, Omai gave feveral entertainments on fhore, to which mod of the gentlepien of the fhips were in- vited, and Captains Cook and Clerke al- ways made a point of being there, as it jnight in the end prove ferviceable to him : for the natives feeing their coun- tryman fo much refpedled by the Cap- tains, might, on that account, be induced to behave better to him after their de- parture. The ::riN ( '5' ) The time at length arrived for failing, and in the morning Omai, attended by his two New Zealand boys, vifited both fhips, ' and with many t«ars took a moft afFec- ' tionate leave of all his friends, who could not forbear fympathizing with him. Hav- ' jng got into his capoe, we again bid him farewell, got up our anchors, and foon after flood out of the harbour, making the beft of our way for Uriatea, with many paflengers on board, both male and fe- male. . . The next day we anchored in Oha- maneno, one of the harbours of that ifland; and in the afternoon moored both ihips clofe to the fhore, the Refolution being on one fide, and the Difcovery rn. the other. Many of our old friends came off in their canoes, and, am^ ngft the reft, Oreo, the chief of the iL..^.^, who eafily recognized Captain Cook : a brifk trade was foon opened on bofh fidcb, a/<4 we had as plentiful a fupply of every thing as wt could wifh for. i 4 As i ■■ ^a "l^ hi'l : •^ k i J ■m^ i Ih iU I ,cVt t- I'll if a { 15* ) As this was the laft of the Society Ifles we propofed (lopping at, every thin^ was got on fliore tTiat wanted the leaft repair. Our teats were pitched, the forge ere^fled, parties were fent to wood and water, an4 a proper place was fixed upon for making aftronomical obfervations. A day or two after our arrival, Boba, thechief of Otahaw, with his wife Teinjj-r mai, waited upon us,. and made the Cap- tains a prefcnt of feveral hogs, bread-fruiti coco-nuts, &c Mr. Fprfter mentions in his publication, that he was to be married to Miverua, the daughter of Opoone, king of Bora- bora ; however that might have been, he now lives with Teinamai. She by no means anfwers the defcription given of her in the laft voyage, having fince had feveral children; and is altered in every refped: much for the worfe, ex- cept in her temper and difpofition, which are equally as good and agreeable as be- fore. We C 153 ) We continued repairing our rigging, mending fails, wooding, and watering, &c. with all expedition, and were nearly upon the point of failing, when two of the Difcovcry's people were mifling. As this happened in the evening, it was con- cluded that they were carrying on an in- trigue with fome of the ladies, and no jnore was thought of it ; but the morn- ing came, and hearing nothing of them, we were rather alarmed, and made very ftri^t enquiry of the natives, who at firft declared they were perfedly ignorant of the matter ; but with much perfuafion one informed us, that they had the preceding uight embarked in a canoe with two or three of the inhabitants, and paddled out to fea. This at once difclofed the whole of their plan, and many circumftaixcs ot^ urred, which confirmed us in our fulpicion, viz. that they had made their efcape with a view of remaining with the natives, and ppe of them had gone fo far, a few days before. ;l If ; \ m ( '54 ) before, as to defjre Captain Cook's pcr- iniflionto ftay. No time was now to be Joft in the re^ covery of them : accordingly, boats welU manned and armed were fent to different parts of the ifland, but ajl returned with- out gaining any intelligence : the next day was fpent in the fame manner, ^n4 with as little fuccefs. We had now only one refource left, which was to fecure fome of the principal people, and keep them in cuftody till our jnen were delivered up, which was done the following day. - :: Captain Clerke having occafion to go on board the Refolution, found Oreo's fon and daughter with her hufljand there, and having informed Captain Cook of his intention, who readily agreed to the plan, he invited them on board the Difcovery, imder a pretence of giving them fome hatchets, knives, and beads. As the Captain had frequently made them pre- fents before, they accomjninied him with- out ( '55 ) " '. out the lead hefitation, but no fooner were they arrived in the great cabin, than a centinel was placed at the door, and the window fecured. This proceeding of courfe furprifed them a good deal, and Captain Gierke having explained the rea- fon of it, and the neceffity he was under of doing it, they bur ft into tears, and beg- ged he would not kill them. He aflured them he would not, and that the moment his people were brought back, they fhould be releafed : this however did not quiet their apprehenfions, and they continued ia a ftate of great defpondency all night. No fooner was it known amongft the na- tives, than Moedua (which was the name of Oreo's daughter), with her brother and hufband, were confined as prifoners, than a large party of women aflembled on ihore, and even in the water near the fhips, and fet up a moft difmal howling, ftriking their bofoms, and cutting their }ipads with iharks teeth, \yhich caufed a , plentiful , ■ 'I, ( ■ Si. M> .« i m a .. 1 •• ill "fpi n:|I „Ji! . % ( 'S6 ) . . plentiful effufion of blood, and gave them the appearance of furies rather than wo- men ; fome worked themfelves up to fuch a pitch as to become nearly frantic, whilft the royal prifoners bewailed their fituation in filent forrow. This continued near half an hour, when having entirely exhaufted themfelves with paflion, they retired. v •; ^t;^ In the evening, feveral of the chiefs had formed a dcfign of feizing Captains Cook and Gierke, as they took their even- ing walk, and would certainly have put it in execution, had he not received timely intelligence from a girl who came with us from Huaheine. She had been on fhore almoft the whole day, and towards evening came on board in a great fright, telling us that Tootee and Taatee (the names the Captains went by) would be killed. Captain Clerke was then on (hore. A ftrong armed party were diredly fent, who in their way overtook feveral of the natives armed with clubs and flicks. As i ^57 ) ' As foon as they fawour men they ap- peared much confufed, and made oflF, a few mulkets were difcharged after them, but without doing any mifchief. The cap- tain in his walk had met with one or two of the chiefs, and obferved feveral others lurking about, which, with their beha- viour, made him rather fufpicious, fo he vety wifely turned back, and went on board the Refolution, which rendered their fcheme abortive. In the morning, Oreo came on board the Difcovery, and with tears in his eyes begged permiffion to fpeak to his fons and daughter, which he was fufrered to do. Being informed, that unlefs he brought back our two men. Captain Gierke would carry the prifoners to England, be faid he would do all in his power to 6nd them, and after a fhort ftay departed. At length the runaways were brought on board, and put in irons, and Mocdua with her huiband and brother, fet at Uberty : after receiving feveral prefents from the captain. * m U i if II i lit.' ii! ( "S8 ) , , , captain, as a fmall recompence for th^if confinement, they went on fhore, and were received with great joy by their country- men and women, who had aiTembled for that purpofe. ' Our deferters we found had paddled all night, and the next morning arrived at Bora-bora; and having relied them- felves proceeded to a fmall ifland called Tubal, where they were taken. ^^ ^ »*-*-: ^ Having nothing now to detain us, w6 got up our anchors, but the wind not proving favourable, we were obliged once more to let them go. However, on the 9th of December (Sunday) we again weighed and made fail, accompanied by numbers of our old friends in their canoes, who attended the (hips a confiderable way beyond the harbour, and then very cordi- ally bid us adieu. Captain Cook at firft had fome idea of Hopping a day or two at Bora-bora ; but the harbour not proving a good one, he puifued his courfe to the northward. The ^n i '59 ) » The fociety of the areeois is efleemed the moft polite eftabliihment in thefe iflands; the members of which are al- ways people of rank and fortune, and are diflinguifhed by being tattowed in a pecu- liar manner, particularly thofe who are natives of Bora-bora. ,. , , , ,. It will here be neceflary to obferve, what it is that firft donftitutes a member, and fome of the rights and privileges an- nexed to this fociety. It is in confequence of a moft cruel and inhuman adlion : a man muft conned himfelf with a girl ; and the firft child i '^ has by her, muft be ftrangled the inftant it is born. At the next meeting they muft bring witneflTes to prove this horrid deed, after which they are admitted as members. They generally go in companies of tea or twelve fail of canoes ; and let them direct thevt 'irfe to whatever ifland they pleafe, the 7 re always certain of being weU received j nay, if they have even been at war but a few days before the vifit, all animofity I til' fv !^-''\ ft 'u 'i^il 1 •i. V% IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // c ^° /^ 1.0 I.I «S |40 2.5 2.2 1.8 11.25 111111.4 IIIIII.6 vi <^ /] 7 <>1 /^ '^ o / Photographic Sdences Corporation 13 WEST MAIN .TPsT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 % \ y l.i.l m ( i6o ) animofity is laid afide, and tfiey arc aa perfed friends as if nothing had ha^p- pened. One of their privileges is to keep two, three, or more women at once, who, how- ever, muft be members. They ways wear the beft cloth the iflands produce, and cat many peculiar things, which others, even if arees, are not permitted to do. They are generally diftinguiflied for their prowefs^ valour, and activity in battle ; and if any of them fliew the leaft figns of cowardice, he is excluded the fociety; which is efteemed fuch a dif- grace, that from that time he lofts all his confequence, and nobody will aflbciate with or fpeak to him. Their amufements during thefe meetings confift of boxing, wreilling) dancing, and making feails and entertainments, at which crowds of fe^ male fpcdtators attend, the faireft of whom are always made choice of by the conquerors. In general, they continue in this fociety to the age of thirty or thirty- five. ( I«I ) five, when by fulFering one df their chil* dren to furvive> they debar themfelves of the privileges of an atreoi. Many remain members all their lives, and die in a moJl emaciated (late, occafioned by their ytrf debauched way of living* yi-^i-i ^A 'ii't M Vout mm CKaP. 'im ' t> Ic- ( 162 ) CHAP. XII. Depart f torn the Society IJles-^dlfcover a low Jandy , IJland'^catch manyjijh and tur^ tk'^nearly lofe two of the Difcovery's men — leave the IJland^^-^deJcription ofit-^ amazing Jlocks of birds — proceed to the northward-^fee more land — anchor off A*toui^ one of the Sandwich IJles — proceed- ings there — the Refolution drags her an^ chor, and Jiands out tofea — the king and queen vifit Captain Gierke — the Difco- very fails — both fliips anchor offOnehow, another of the Sandwich IJles-^tranf- aBions there ^-^ fame account of thofe iflands. - , ( • '. " ■■' .' '-' OU R weather, after leaving the So- ciety Ifles, was pleafant, with a freih trade-wind. On the 22d, we ob- ferved a greater number of birds thaa ufual, which increafed as we continued our courfe^ and moll of them being fuch , as f •# ,:<. ( J63 ) : , as never fly very far from larid, we cori* eluded ourfclves to be in the neighbour- hood of fome. Orders were given to keep a good look out ; and We ftood on, the birds (which were boobies, tnen of war birds, egg birds and tropic birds) becoming more nume- rous till the 24th, when being in latitude 2 deg. 3 min. N. and longitude 202 deg. 22 min. E. we difcovered a low fandy ifle, with a few trees upon it, which had the appearance of being burnt or fcorched up by the heat of the fun. In the afternoon, we were well in with the land, and Captain Cook having taken a view of it, fignified his intention of flopping there for a day or two, as he ap- prehended it might prove a convenient place for catching turtle. About ati hour after, we anchored off the S. W. part of it, and the Refolution fent a boat to look for a convenient landing place ; but not meeting with one, we weighed and ftood on towards the N. W. part 6£ Ml k, / Bfi - < ^64 ) V it, when we anchored again about two miles from the (hore, oppofite to a fmall patch of coco-nut trees* which from that circumflance we called CocorNut Point, and near which there was a break in the reef, large enough to admit boats. Parties from both ihips were fent on fhore, and the firft night they turned upwards of thirty turtle ; we alfo fent our boats to catch fiOi, and had very good fuccefs fo that with fi{h and turtle we lived exceed- ingly well. This proved a welcome fup- ply, for our ftock of frefli provifions had been confumed a few days before our difcovery of this ifland. '■% We employed ourfelves in this manner till the ift of January, during which time we had collected a confiderable number of turtle for both ihips, bu^ had nearly loft two of the Difcovery*s men, who un- thinkingly ftrayed from their party, and proceeding in a directly oppofite direc- tion to what they ought, had well nigh -periihed with heat and tliirft. In the ,*. ■/"i- „ . t- n. H-^mfit ( '65 ) evening, captain Cook mad: the fignal for the boats to return, and the next morning (January 2d) we weighed our anchors, and proceeded to the northward. This place, which we called Chridmas Ifland (having fpent that anniverfary there), is one of thofe low lagoon iflands fo frequently to be met with between the tropics. It is furroun^^ed by a reef of coral rock, ilpon which a heavy furf con- tinually vents its fury. Its appearance is defolate and barren, being little more thaa a large land bank of a femicircular form, covered in fome places with a low brulh wood. The foil is compofed of fand, ftones, and the decayed Ihells of crabs, and other fhell-fi(h. Its inhabitants are innumerable flocks of boobies, man of war birds, egg birds, petrels, tropic birds, and two or three fpecies of plover, moft of 'which were fo tame as to be taken off the bufhes. In one or two places we found fmall patches of coco-nut trees, the fruit of which were fmalU and the milk M 3 poor * f hf ^t \ ( i66 ) .: poor and infipid, and the trees confidcr- ably ftinted in their growth. The reef abounds with various kinds of fifti, par- ticularly a fpecies of {hark about four feet in length, which conftantly attended our boats to and from the Ihips : there arc alfo very large cavallias, fnappers, and a fifli which they called a rock-cod. On ihore, we found numbers of a fpecies of crab, which from their bright red colour we called foldiers, and abundance of land crabs. We likewife faw feveral rats, which were fmaller than ours, and their colour more red. We tried in many places for frefli water, but could procure none but what was very brackifli, and totally unfit for ufe. Our courfe from hence was nearly north : we had a fine fteady breeze, and the weather was fine and pleafant. On the 17th, our latitude was 20 deg, 25 min» N. and longitude 200 ^t^, 45 min. E, The next day (Jan. i^), being in lati- tude 21 deg. 13 min. N. and longitude '*'i»- { i67 ) 200 deg. 49 mm. E. we faw land to the eaftward, and foon after defcried more to the N. W. for which wefliaped our coiirfe; but night coming on, we tacked and flood oflF till morning f Jan. 19th), wheh we proceeded to trace the coaft in a S. W. and W. direction. The land at firft prefented rather a barren appearance, but upon a clofer view it improved upon us, par- ticularly on the weftern fide, which con- fifted of a large tra£l of fine level plaiiis^ and beyond them a double range of hills, which were covered with trees. Upon the (hore we faw a few "clufters of coco-' nut trees, but by no means fo abundant as at the Society Ifles. As we drew nearer in (hore, fome of the inhabitants put off in their canoes, and very readily came along fide. Their colour was mote of the copper caft than that of the natives of Taheitee, and they wore their hair long, and of different hues, like the people of the Friendly Ifles. Their drets was nothing more than a narrow flip of cloth round '^^^>I M4 their \m i !' ! ( "68 ) their middle, and they were marked or tattowed in different parts of their body. _ Their cloth was (lamped or printed in va- rious patterns, not much unlike our printed linens ; their language nearly re- fembled that of Taheitee. They were eafily perfuaded to come on board, and* like all other Indians^foon began to thieve* but nothing of any confequence was loft. We faw no weapons among them, nor did they behave abruptly or difagreeably* but in their difpofition feemed friendly and good-natured. We purchafed a fe^ pigs and fweet potatoes of them, for ^hich we gave them a hatchet or two* and a few fmall nails, vrith vrhich they appeared very well fatisfied. In the event- ing we flood oflF* intending to examine the place more clofely the next day. ^.., .. In the morning (Jan. 20th) at fix, cap* tain Cook made a fignal for the Difco- very*8 fix-oared cutter, which* accom- panied with the Refolution*s pinnace and large cutteri was fent to look for a fafe .. t ' ., place I. , ^ i ^ ( 169 ) place for the (hips to anchor, and to ttj Vfhzi foundings were to be found nearer in fhore. During their abfence, we ftood off and on, being fearful of venturing too near. The natives came off as yefterday, and we bought a few hogs, tarrow, fweet potatoes, and fugar-cane, of all which they appeared to have plenty, and excellent of their kind. At three in the afternoon the boats returned, having found a toler- able birth, and at four both veflfels came to. Soon after Captain Cook went on ihore in the pinnace, attended by the Dif- covery's cutter, both well armed. He was received on Ihore very cordially by the natives, who treated him during his flay with great refpedt and attention, and brought many fmall hogs, potatoes, tar- row, or eddoes, and fugar-cane, all which were purchafed at a very eafy rate. The women were rather ordinary, and in gene- ral mafculine, and will fcarce bear a corn-* parifon with the fair dames of Taheitee. Their drefs is the fame as that of the men. h I 170 ) only the cloth is wider, and reacThea down to the knees. Their hair is cut (hort be- hind, and long before, but turned back like our toupees, which mode of wearing it does not fet them off to the greateft ad- vantage. Many, who were along-fidc ' in their canoes, pleaded hard to come on board, but captain Cook had given ftri(St orders, previous to his anchoring, not to fufFer a fingle woman to be admitted into the fhips, as there were feveral people in both, who Hill had the venereal difeafe. But, notwithftanding every precaution, many of out men contrived to have con-' nexions with them, in confequence of which we found this terrible diforder raging among them when we arrived there the fecond time. """ -*^*"' The next day (Jan. 21ft), the launches were fent to fill water, which could be procured without much difficulty, from a fine river at no great diftance from the fhips, and parties were difpatched to the {hore to trade with the natives, while others ^ 4 [e la le le -< 171 ) others were to fuperintend the market on board the fhips. They fupplied us witU abundance of every thing the ifland pro- duced, and in the evening our trading parties returned with abundance of fine hogs, potatoes, fugar-cane, &c. jj The 22d was very windy, with much rain, which prevented our boats from landing, as a heavy furf broke upon the ihore. Our friends however came off in the midft of it, and a brifk trade was car- ried on, on board. We alfo purcbafcd many of their on^ments, fuch as fans, necklaces, bracelets, cloaks and caps> compofed of red and yellow feathers, which were very curious, the latter be- ing made in form of helmets! 1 hey alfo brought off fome fpears, which were about ten feet long, admirably poliftied, and the end intended for execution was about eight or ten inches in length, had many barbs, and was pointed. During a heavy fquall, the Refolution dragged her anchor, and fwung near a ihoal. r n •^'- , { ^7^ ) ilioal. Her fituation being rather dan- gerous, captain Cook ordered the anchor to be weighed, and flood ofF fhore ; but the winds foon after becoming light, and a ftrong current fetting to the weft ward, ihe fell confiderably to leeward, and at lafi. was obi! ^^d to ftand out to fea. The Difcovery, being fecure, ftaid behind. The 23d was very rainy during the whole day, but as there was but little wind, captain Gierke fent the Difcovery *8 boats on fhore to trade as ufual, and many of the inhabitants came on board as before. Early the next morning (Jan. 24tb,) the Difcovery weighed and made fall ; but the wind proved fo light, that fhe fell to leeward, and was obliged foon after to come to. The Refolution at this time was out of fight. About nine, the king of the ifland came alongfide in a double canoe : cap- tain Gierke, underftanding who he was, rCvmefttd him much to come on board, which he appeared willing to do, but his attendants were fo fearful of his receiving fomc ( '73 ) fome hurt or other, that they intreated him not to do it. He ventured however as far as the gangway, where he fat down, and prefented the captain with a curious carved bowl; in return for which h^e re- ceived fome large nails, a cut-glafs bowl, and fome other trifles, whic*j j^leafed him • exceedingly. After a fliort ftay; his at- tendants bore him in their arms to his canoe, and he went afhore. His name was Tomahana ; he appeared to be about thirty years old, and was above the middle fize ; he was clothed in the fame manner as the meanef): of his fubje£i:s, and could only be diftinguiflied by the great refpedt they paid him. Soon after his departure, the queen arrived in another canoe, and in the fame manner was per- mitted to go no farther than the gang- way. She likewife made captain Gierke a prefent of fome elegant ruffs made of various coloured feathers, for which he gave her fome beads, looking glaifes, and a piece of fcarlet cloth ; after which (he was vi m M > i'.i'iJ'; !. Ill m : ^.?!l I'M mm /) V ( 1/4 ) was carried into her canoe, and proceeded to the Ihore. She was young, and had a pleafing countenance, but her drefs was not remarkable. At feven the next morning (Jan. 25), the Difcovery got up her anchor, and made fail, with a fine breeze. Soon after ihe faw the Refolution, and bore down to her. The three following days were fpent by both {hips in turning to windward, to regain their old fituations if poffible, but they could not even reach the weftern- moft point of the ifland. The next day (29th), therefore, they bore away for a fmall ifle, about feven leagues to leeward of this, and at ten in the morning were running akng (hore, when captain Cook fent the pinnace to ftrike foundings, and fee if we could anchor with fafety. Soon after ihe made the fignal of anchorage, and the Refolution came to ; but the Dif- covery, having thirty and forty fathoms with a rocky bottom, continued to ftand on ; about half an hour after ihe let go k [f her .IV' J I t.> 'iigfak ' 'mm i: ! ffS^Bn^ I Wm 1 'q^^sS i •f^^jk rll .%»*v • ■•* ^g«i^? ■p^ a- X ^ { ^7S ) her anchor in twenty-three fathoms of water, the bottom a fine white fand, and about two miles off fhore. This ifland was confiderably fmaller than the other, and had rather a wretched appearance ; the fouth point of it is ter- minated by a high bluff rock, the interior parts are low, with here and there a fmali elevation, and not a tree is to be feen. In the morning (30th), our new ac- quired friends came off with fweet pota- toes, yams, and fait ; in the two latter ar- ticles they feemed to abound. The yams were large, and the fait was equal to any we ever faw, both for colour and quality. The boats were fent on fhore to trade as ufual, but they found the landing far more difficult than at the laft place, on account of a vf,^ heavy furf, which,, when the wind varies in the leafl to the weflward, rolls in at fo terrible a rate, as totally to cut off all communication with the fhore. In the evening, they brought off what few articles they conveniently could, but lea r / ( 176 left two or three of the gentlcttien behind^ who fuperintended the marketi till the vfcather (hould be more moderate* • The next day (31ft) we again tried to land with our boats, but were obliged to delKl ; and in the evening had frefh gales with rain. The Refolution being too neai^ in fhore, weighed and anchored farther out. This morning (Feb. ift), t**e weather being more moderate, the boats were fent on fhore, and in the afternoon brought off the gentlemen, with fome yams and felt, but were obliged to leave the prin- dpal part of their purchafes behind. About five in the afternoon, the wind be- ing very high, and a heavy fwell runnings the Refolution drove, and foon after got under way, intending to anchor again, but by the time it was dark the current had fet her nearly out of fight. A number" of the natives came off tQ the Difcovery the next day (Feb. 2d), with their canoes laden with fait, yams, 2 fweet «f ( i?7 ) fweet potatoes, and Hfh dried and falted* Of the roots, a fufficient quantity were purchafed to fupply the fhip's company two months at lead. At ten (he got up her anchor, and made fail after the Refolution, who could juft be di(lingui(h- ed from the maft-head. At two in the afternoon (he joined her, and both dired^ ed their courfe to the northward. As we vifited thefe iflands a fecond time, and had an opportunity of making agi^eater number of remarks, relative to the mfanners and cuftoms, Ssc. of the in- habitants, than our ihort ftay this time would permit^ a fuller and more particular account will be given afterwards : • it .will: therefore fuffice for the prefent to exhibit a concife view of what appeared to us the . moft ftriking and remaTkabJernJi .^rvi^r . A'Cowi, whi(;h is the name^of the largeft ifland, is compofed, on the N. W.~ fide, of a large tra£t of level land, the in- terior parts, as has been obfervpd , before, con filling of a double range of hills; The , Voj.. I. ' ; N , ' houies i -i ( '78 ) houfcs of the natives arc in general fltu- tuated near the (hore, and placed in cluflers^ fo as to form fmall towns or Tillages. Their external appearance greatly refcm- blcs the top of a barn placed upon the ground, with a fmall entrance in the mid- dle. Some of them were elevated upon pofts about three feet high, particularly thofe neareft the fea ; from which we may conclude, that they are, during fome parts of the year, fubjedl to inundations. They are well thatched on the otitfide with dry gi'afs, fo as totally to prevelit the entrance of rain. The floor is alfo well flrewed with* dry grafs, upon ■ which mats of various (izes atid dimenfions ^e placed. Thefe mats are of a very clofe, compact textiire, and made of different patterns, fome of which are really elegant. They vary greatly in their degree of fine- nefs. Their canoes at boats are the neateft we ever faw, and compofed of two dif- ferent coloured wobds, the bottom being dark, the upper part light, and furnifhed \ ( m ) With an out-rigger. Befidcs tKefe, they have another mode of conveying them- felves in the water, upon very light flat pieces of board, which we called (hark- boards, from the (imilitude the anterior part bore to the head of that fifhv Upon thcfc they will venture into the heaviefl; furfs, and paddling with their hands and feet get on at a great rate. Indeed, we never faw people fo adive in the water, which almofl feems their natural element. O'neehow, which is the Wefiermoft ifland, is very fmall, and rather low* It produces fugar- cane, plaintains, fweet potatoes, yams, and fait ; in the two lat- ter 'articles it exceeds A*towi. The in- habitants are not numerous ; their houTes, &c. are exadly like thofe of the above mentioned ille. N2 CHAP. ( i8o ) CHAP XIII. We depart for the northward'^fall in with the N. W, coafi of America'^trace the coaft as ivell as the wind and weather fermit-^are put to an allowance of water ^^difcover King George* s Sound-^where we anchor'— ^the natives vijit US'— account ^of them ^ and of our tranfaSiions there'—' departure from King George* s Sound, IN the afternoon of the 2d of February, the Difcovery joined her confort, and proceeded in a N. N. E. and N. E. direc- tion for the coaft of America. On the 13th, our lat. was 31 deg. 21 min. N. and fong. 205 deg. 12 min. E. we had fmooth water, and open cloudy weather, with afwellfromtheN. E. On the i6th. we began to find it cold, the thermometer Handing at 56 deg. This is not fo much ^ to I Tl th( ( '8. ) to be wondered at, confidcring we had fpent near a twelvemonth between the tropics. From this time to the 23d, our weather was in general clear and pleafant, with fine breezes from the S. W. we had fome albatroiTes and petrels about us, and the fea was in general pretty fmooth. On the 24th, it became very hazy and foggy, which continued more or lefs till the I ft of March. Our courfe during this time was nearly N. E. On the 25th, at feven in the morning, we paiTed a log of wood with barnacles on it ; and on the 27th, being in latitude 43 deg. 47 min. N. and longitude 224 deg. 38 min. 30 feconds E. we pafled another. In the night we obferved the aurora borealis very ftrong, between the N. N. W. and N. F. and the nextdayfaw feveral whales about. The weather now became warmer ; the thermometer, which had been as low as 48 deg. rofe to 53 and 54 deg. and we had calms till the 3d of March, when a breeze fprung up, though not a very fa- N 3 YouraMe s ( «8i ) vourablc one, our courfe being little better than E. S. E. We faw to-day fome di- vers, which induced us thiuk 've wire not far from land. The 5th, was cloudy and hazy, with light winds inclinable to calms, with a fwell from the northward ; and on the 6th, we pafiTcd fevcral pieces of drift wood and fome rock-weed. The water being difcoloured, captain Cook ordered the lead to be hove, but got no ground. In the afternoon wc faw two feals, feveral whales, and fome porpuiTes. The next day (the 7th), at day-light, being nearly in latitude 44 deg. 33 min. N. and lon- gitude 235 deg. 36 min. £. we faw land (being prt of America) bearing N.^E. At eight, the extremes bore N, N. E. and S. E. by E ; they appeared the highcft part of the land, and made in feveral bluff capes and fmall bays or inlets, the whole forming a deep bay, the extremes of the land in fight being the two points of it. At nine, the water having the appearancQ ( i83 ) appearance of foundings, wc got a caft of the lead, and found bottom at ninety-five fathom. We faw a great number of birds of the gull k^nd. The next day we had a ftrong breeze from the weft ward. The air was much colder than yefterday, with open cloudy weather, but very unfcttled and fqually, with ihowers of hail. The wind not proving favourable for exploring the coaft, we flood :o the fouthward, to avoid getting too near the land. The 9th, -was equally as unfettled as the day before ; fometimes being calm, at others fqually. In the morning there was no land in fighl", but at two in the afternoon we faw it ex- lending from N. E. [ N. to N. E. by E. but at a good diftance. The weather on the loth was heavy, dark, and cloudy, with fljowers of hail, the air cold and piercing. In the courfe of the night we had a favourable fhift of will J, which we took the advantage of, and flood in for the land ; and in the N 4 morning h 1 1 ''I ,( '84 ) ^ morning at fix, were well in with it, the northern extreme making in a blufF point with white cliffs, and . which proved to be Cape Blanco, bearing N. ^ E. and the fouthern one making in a long low point S. ^. by E. our diftance from the fhore about feven miles. The land near the ihore was of a moderate height; the hills were covered with ftrait tall trees of the fir kind, and where they were but thinly fcattered, the ground was covered with fnow. There were a number of white fandy beaches, which at a di (lance appear- ed like chalk cliffs : this part of the coafl: runs nearly N. and S and in a ftrait di- redkion, without the leaft appearance of a bay or inlet. During the night, we had frequent fqualls with ftiowers of hail and fnow which continued more or lefs the beft part of the next day. The fqualls were generally fo heavy, as to oblige us to get down our top-gallant-yards, and clofe- reef our top-fails. As the wind continued fo long to the weftward, and fo frefli with- ^( l85 ) al, we could do nothing more than ftand ofF and on, which plan we continued till the 15th, but we fell to leeward confider- ably. Our weather was now dark and cloudy, with a nafty moift atmofphere : in the afternoon, the wind being more moderate, we wore fhip, and flood in for the land again. In the night, we had light airs and calms. On the 16th, we had moderate breezes with cloudy weather, and in tlie afternoon faw feveral ^lales. The 17th, and part of the i8th, were rainy and difagreeable ; but the 19th was fine, clear, and pleafant, with a fine little breeze from the S. S. E. which in the af- ternoon, almoft died away, and in the courfe of the night fliifted to the north- ward. We continued however to ftand in for the land, and the next day a haw^k was feen flying round the ftiips. - la the night the veflels loft fight of each other ; but the Difcovery firing a gun, the Reiblution anfwered it with a light, The next day we had the wind from ( , ''I'd \ k 5,^1 m ■mim ''-■■''': \\ ()+ |i. !f' % ,^ 18)5 ) ' f*om the fouthward, which in the after- noon freftiened up, but towards evening it became fqually and rainy, when it fhift- ed to its old corner, W. by N. our latitude to day at noon was 45 deg. 5© min. N. On the 2 2d, we had a fine breeze and open cloudy weather ; and at half paft feyen faw the land bearing N. by E. At eight, we were about twelve leagues from it: opr latitude at noon was 47 deg. 20 min. N. At four in the afternoon, the fouthern extreme bearing E. S. E. | E. terminated in a low point, and continued level as far to the northward as W. by N. it then became high, and mountainous, inland, while the fea-coaft was of a mode- rate height, forming feverai deep bays, and vallies, v ith broken land. The northern extreme bore N. by W. Y W. and was alfo level, but not fo low as the fouthern, and had two remarkable round hills inland ; our diftance from the neareft fhore was about five leagues. At / ( 18; ) At fix, the extremes bore N. by W. and £. S. £. the northern extreme about ten leagues diftant ; a high round hill, N.N.E. and a rock detached from the main Iand,N. i W. Within this rock the land was brok- en, and had much the appearance of a harbour. All thi$ part of the coaft was well flocked with wood, and afforded the mofl promifing appearance of any we had . yetfeen. At half paflfix we had a heavy fwell, fettilig in upon the land. As our water began to grow rather fhor t, we were this day put to an allowance of two quarts a" day per man. The next day was thick, heavy, rainy, and difagreeable, with fqualls, on which account, though the winds blew from the S. S. W. we flood off from the land. The 24th, was in general pleafant, but the 25th was thick and rainy, with lulls and fqualls alternately. At noon, our la- titude was 48 (leg. 28 min. N. and the next day v^ e had a very heavy fwell from the W. S. W. On the 2bth, we had open cloudy weather, but about ten it became ' Sfl^l 1 ■ ?^ ^l:■ i.u I i 1 jjHV^ l# H^ v4l I ■ ; . if 'i.:, *' ;i II ( l88 ) ; V foggy and the fhips loft fight of each other : fignals being made and anfwered, they foon afcertained their fituation with refpe(fl to diftance, and the fog clear- ing away, they refumed their courfe together. Early the next morning, having mode- rate breezes and fine weather, we thought we defcried land, fo tacked and flood in for it. We had a gre^t number of por- pufles about, which were variegated with black and w^hitc. At half paft nine, we plainly faw the land upon our weather- bow making very high, with fnow upon the tops of the hills, and at twelve had land all round us, our latitude being 49 deg. 28 min. N. We had a fine breeze, and as there was fome profped of finding a harbour. Captain Cook continued to ftand on. At three in the afternoon, we were about three leagues diltant from it ; it appeared very woody, and in one part we defcried an opening, which bid very fair to fuit our purpofe. Captain Cook therefore gave orders for bearing away, i, and ( >S9 ) and at four we were clofe in fhore, run- ning up what appeared to be a deep found, having twenty and thirty fathoms of water. Soon after, two or three canoes, with feveral of the natives on board, put off and came to the fhips, but at firft kept at fome diftance, and addreffed us in a very harfh and uncouth language, after which they by degrees came along-fide. They were painted red, and fome wore a kind of garment edged with fur, and faftened a- crofs the fhoulders like the New Zealand hahoos. One of them had feveral fkins fewed together, and thrown over his fhoulders. , ^ .. The captains gave them feveral things, fuch as hatchets and nails, but they did not feem to underfland their ufes, and af- terwards they returned to the fhore. This found appeared to be very extenfive, and contained many fmall illands. At feven, the Refolution let go her anchor in eighty- four fathom, muddy bottom, and at half part, the Difcovery anchored in feventy fathoni. Farly ^''mm i^' ]*\ tVfffS u\ ^ H . iff : 'i.m M I \i' ( 190 ) Early in the morning (Monday 30th) xnany of the Americans came off to the Ihips, of whom we purch?red a confider- able number of bear, wolf, lynx, and fea- beaver fkins, for which we gave them knives, looking-glaflfcs, red cloth, and fmall hatchets, They were to all appear- ance a miferable fet of beings : they were under the middle fize, and ill-made, their legs being fmall and ancles large, which is probably occafioned by their continually litting with their legs under them. Their colour was lighter than any we had yet met with, but rendered black by filth and dirt. . Moft of them were daubed over their arms, face, and indeed almoft their whole bodies, with red earth. Some of them had the lower part of their face, that is from the bottom of the nofe to the chin, of a darker colour. The hair was long andihaggy, and powdered as it were, with the down of birds, and daubed with the fame colour as their bodies. Their face was broad, with high cheek-bones, mouth I t ( - \ rt ill I h I! I l! i; f 1 K/ifnr t^ Pui&sAit DecCi4^ijSi fy (r.Ri^/'tnsi'n . ( '91 ) mouth wide, nofe rather flat;, and their teeth bad and uneven. Upon their heads they wore a kind of bonnet, Ihaped like a tin-cover, the top of it flat. Mofl: of them had a kind of cloak apparently made of the bark of a tree, the bottom was or- namented with a long fringe compofed of the fame materials as the cloak ; that pare which furrounded the neck being trim- med with the fur of the fea-beaver. - '= *: Some were clothed with the fl;:ins of bears and wolves fewed together. Their canoes were diff*erent from any we had feen before ; they were wide, with- out an out- rigger, and rather pointed at both ends ; when they paddle, they fit in the bottom. Their paddles were about five feet long, rather broad in the middle, and terminating in a long narrow point. In one or two of their canoes were feveral women, whom we at firfl: could fcarcely diftinguifli from the men, their drefs being the fame ; but upon a clofer examination, we found that their faces I- ■'■■'' ^ ^ were iiififi • "^H *' ¥ !«• \\ \ I ( ^92 ) I were not ornamented like thole of the men, and that with refped: to ftature, they were in general fhorter. • There was one article of trade which ibme of thcfe people expofed to fale to- day, that we never faw before in any country : this was feveral human fkulls and dried hands. Some of our feamen made figns of eating the flcHi, which figns they readily made too, probably becaufe they faw us do it; and from this circumftance they were pronounced to be cannibals, though it is not unlikely but that we were too hafty in forming our conjedtures. The matters of both fhips were fent this morning in fearch of a more fecure birth for them, this being too open and expofed ; and the launches were difpatch- ed to fill fome of our cafks at the firft convenient watering-place, of which there appeared to be plenty. One or two of the officers went on fhore in quefl of game, but met with nothing but a rac- .»w coon, ( 193 ) coon, which they faw fporting on the fide of a mofly rock, and which they brought on board. They found the Ihore fo en- ^ cumbered with rocks, and the fallen de- caying trunks of trees, which (as well as the living ones) were fo clofe to each other, as almoft to prevent a perfon from penetrating to any diftance. In the even- ing the mafters returned with an account of a convenient place, with a handy fpot for watering, but then the entrance was too narrow to rifque the fhips : they like- wife found another, at no great diftance from this, but there was no watering- place ; fo both were rejected, and it was agreed that the veflels fhould next day be removed to a cove, not far from the fpot where they then lay -, and as the fhore was fteep-to, and no danger could hap- pen in confequence of rocks or fhoal- water, they were to be fecured to the trees on fhore by hawfers. -^ Tucfday (31ft), the greateft part of this day was fpent in moving the fhips in- VoL. I. O to t ,^i iK0 n ■*v.| it 1 . vm k: I! ' h ( 194 ) to the before mentioned cove, and fecur- ing them. In the morning the natives came, as yefterday, to traffic with us, but they were not fo well fupplied. The new3 of our arrival in this place feemed to have fpread a good deal, for feveral canoes from more diftant parts vifited us to-day, and brought a large flock of furs, mofl: of which we bought at an eafy rate. They were very fond of brafs buttons, pieces of copper and brafs, particularly if bright, and p«-wter and tin, which they converted into bracelets, being very fond of {hew. Their hair was generally parted on the top of their heads, and when fprinkled or powdered with the down of birds, is deemed full dreffed. Thefe peo- ple make ufe of boj^.e pata-patows, nearly of the fame form ao thoTe of New Zea- land, but rather longer and narrower ; thefe they ornament with carved work. Their language proved very difficult for lis to learn, being rough and harfh, and abounded with confonants, particularly /, s, and k. . ■' Wednefday, / • (> IT ( '95 ) • ~ ' Wednefday, April ifl. This morning a wooding-party were fent on fhore, and the aftroiiomcrs obfcrvatories and inftru- ments were ereded upon a rock, not far from the (hip?, which was called the Af- tronomers Rock. In the afternoon boats were difpatehed for the purpofe of find- ing fpruce, to brew for the lliip's com- pany : they returned in the evening with feveral kinds, though none of them the right American fpruce. This afternoon there was a little difturbance amongft the Indians ; one of them had been guilty of fome oflFence, upon which the chief of the party ordered all the canoes on fhore ; the criminal was taken out, and fix of the people ftripped themfelves, and gave him a good beating ; his goods were handed to him, and he was defiied to come there no more. - ' We purchafed a few fifii and mufcles to-day, which proved very good. This being an article that we wifhcd to en- courage them to bring, we gave a good O 2 price (f -'^^ miu I ■1. ■ H \\ \ 'V m w * r \ f ' ) ( 196 ) price for, and afterwards fcarce ever wanted fifh. We found ourfelves not a little difappointcd at the very fcanty fup- ply of game this place afforded. Before our arrival, every one was employed in ^ettinj^ his fowling piece in order, and forming bullets, as we fully expeded to meet with plenty of hares and deer ; but, fo far from that, we fcarce faw afingle duck. Thurfday 2d. A new party of Indians, iu four canoes, arrived this morning, who before they began to trade, entertained us with one of their fongs and dances. One of them got up an^-! danced, at the fame time fmging, while feveral others beat time with their paddles againft the fide of their canoes, and at a particular inftant they all joined with him in a kind of chorus. ^' This continued for the fpace of fifteen or twenty minutes, aftv^r which they came alongfide, and we bought variety of {kins, particularly fome of the fpotted lynx, which were very beautiful, s- ',^ — - Friday % ( 197 ) Friday 3d. The brewers, wooders, anci waterers, were very bufily employed on fhore, in their feveral departments. The water was exceeding gooc. Several fhoot- jng parties were cut to-day, but returned without any kind of fuccefs, having feen only a (hag or two, a few gulls, and here and there a fmall flock of plovers upon the rocks, all which were fo (hy as not to come within reach of their guns. ^^ Saturday 4th. About ^^n this morning we were alarms. d by an unaccountable up- roar among the Indians, who were pad- dling about in ftrange confufion, and talk- ing with more than ordinary vehemence. After fome altercation they proceeded to the place where the Refolution's people were wooding and watering, and fome began to colled: ftones with great eager- nefs, whilft others ran into the woods and pulled down the branches of trees, which they formed into fpears. This appear- ance alarmed all our parties on Ihore, whq (oon after hailed the fhips for arms, which O 3 vyere i •r:r:i| ^ M' :^m ■■*J « W Im ^•Hltvf mi m t) ■ ,■ i.: t Ui V- fl I «98 ) were immediately fent, and they drew themfelves up in the beft order they could. The obfervatories were guarded by a party armed with mufquets and cutlaffes, and thofe on board were equally diligent in fecuring arms and pointing the great guns to the fpot where they were aflem- bled ; for we expeded that they intended tcTattack the Ihips, as well as our parties on fliore. They obferved us arming, and gave us to underftand that they did not mean to moleft us, but that a ftrong party of their enemies were coming to attack them. After a fhort confultation, they threw awav their ftones, hauled their canoes upon the fhore, and prepared themfelves for battle, getting their fpears in order, and wetting the handles, that they might grafp them the firmer. Soon after the enemy appeared, confiiHng of fourteen large canoes filled with people : at fight of the fluips they flopped, and appeared at a lofs in what manner to proceed. • .,f.-v .•,;;y,:vT -;;■■;- -''^ ' \ They ■ 'I ,'• i' -S : ( 199 ) They debated fome time, and at laft difpatched a canoe to our party, and a warm difjiute was carried on for fome time on both fides. It appeared evident, that nothing prevented their falling upon our friends but the fhips, which they appre- hended would interfere in the difpute. ^ Things continued in this ftate near two «t ; hours, when both parties, after a deal of menacing, agreed to piake up matters for the prefent, and thus the affair ended. Sunday 5th. About feven this morn- ing we expedted the two parties would engage : challenges were given on both fides, they threw ftones, brandifhed their fpears, and advanced with their canoes to- xviids each other, as if coming to imme- Im^? adion, when the chief of our party, ei rently in a paiFion, got up and made a fpeech. The enemy repeated the chal- lenge ^^which they gave in a rude finging manner,^ accompanied by all the people, who likewife beat time as it were againft the fides of their canots with their pad- O4 dies), ■i.i kw! M<; hIJi. m !!';. W'^'B r ft. ' . ! .; Ir ( 20O ) dies), fliook their fpears, and went ofF in triumph. ; We had a little buftle to-day alongfide the fhips; one of the natives ftole a bear's^ fkin out of a canoe, whilft the owner'^ back was turned, who foon after miiTed it, and barged the perfon who was in the next can. ith the theft, and who in fadt really did tal^e it. He denied the charge, however, and the other ftill perfifted in his accufation, and began to fearch for it: the thief upon this took up his paddle, and ftruck the other over the head, which made the blood run pretty freely : the other fnatched up a kind of knife (which they ufually carry with them), made a ftroke, and cut one of his fingers nearly , off ; upon this parties were formed on both fides, and after much altercation the affair ended. ~ -. *■ Monday 6ih. The natives to-day fup-^ plied us plentifully with fifh ; we alfo bought near twenty gallons of train-oil, and a quantity of blubber, and feveral baleq • K attLy- bales of fifli dried in fmoke, which cat much like our red-herrings. The Refo- lution's fore-maft, upon examination, proved fo bad, that captain Cook thought it neceflary to get it out to repair, Tuefday 7th. The weather which had hitherto been fine clear, and pleafant, was to-day cloudy and foggy, and appeared very inclinable to change ; we had like- wife but few canoes about us. The beft part of the day was employed in getting out the Refolution's maft, which, with the afliftance of moft of the Difcovery's hands, and a great deal of trouble, was at laft effeded. In the courfe of the night wc had feveral heavy fqualis from the eaft- ward, and the whole of the next day was very rainy, and the wind at times blew a perfect hurricane. Not a canoe came near us the whole day. In the evening the fqualis were fo violent and inceflant, that we were under fome apprehenfion left the Difcovery's cable and hawfers Ihould part: with much diihculty her fmall- ;-l nj ,.»■■ J ft ^;%l. m ( 202 ) fmall-bower-anchor was carried out, which fecured her efFciSually. Thurfday 9th. In the courfe of the fqualls laft night, the Refolution fprung her mizen-maft, which therefore was obliged to be got out, and a new one placed in its room. We were fortunate in being at a place where all fizes of them could be procured, and with very little trouble. Several ikuUs and hands were purchafed to-day as curiofities, and vre bought plenty of fifh, but Ikins of every kind were become fcarce. Friday loth. From this day to the 16th, nothing occurred worth mentioning. The weather was very unfettled, being fometimes rainy, at other times foggy, and always cloudy. Three new canoes ar- rived, laden with v^arious articles andfome good furs, which were purchafed much cheaper than any we had yet bought. . ^. Thurfday 16th. The weather now oe- gan to alter for the better. The Refo- lution's people were bufily employed ' -iup m 4 » ( 203 ) in getting out the mlzen-maft, forming the new one, and getting the fore-maft alongfide. We had many canoes, with/ Indians ahout U8, with whom we traf- ficked for fi(h and train-oil ; but fome- times they were cunning enough to cheat us, by filling up the bladders in which it was generally contained, with water, and now and then we found in Tome nothing but water. • . Several of their women were alongfide to-day, who varied in no one particular from the men in their drcfs. Thefe we were given to underftand, were quite at the fervice of any body who would pay them handfomely i but theyjiiet with few cuftomers, as the fair ones were both old and ugly. . ^ From,the 17th to the 2 ad, the weather was fine and pleal'ant, and all hands were bufy in their feveral departments. Captain Cook in his pinnace, attend- ed by the Difcovery's cutter, went up the found to make his obfervations up- '^ui. J. '" ' ;' ' " '" on !*ji !; ra MM I u ,:-rl -ffilf ■ ' ; lit <^' lit'',' lii h /, ( 204 ) on the different parts of it. Inthe courfe of his excurfion, he difcovered two of their towns (one at a good diftance from the other), at both of which he landed, and experienced very civil treatment from the natives. Their houfes were very in- different, built of wood, and flunk abo- minably of fi(h, vafl numbers of which ivere hung up to dry in every part of them. On Tuefday the 2ifl, the Refolution's new mizen-maft was got in, and the next morning a fleet of fourteen canoes ar- rived from the fouth point of the cove. They advanced with great order and re- gularity, finging to the time of their pad- dles, the flroke of which they accom^ panied with a fmall bundle of fcallop- fhells, the noife of which rendered the whol? not unpleafant. One of the ca- noes, which appeared to be the principal one, and was very large and painted, preceded the refl, and paraded backwards and forwards before the fhips in a curious I manner, ( 205 ) manner. After this piece of ceremony Was ended, they divided into two parties, one going to the Refolution, the other to the Difcovery, and a trade was opened on both fides, but they fet a high price upon their goods. Thefe people were very flout; fome of their heads were ornamented with feathers tied upon a fmall twig of a tree, and ftuck in their hair ; fome wore a kind of necklace, and others were decorated with the green boughs of trees. Moft of their faces were painted red, and fome all over their bodies; their clothing varied but little from what we had feen before, except one who wore a large Ikin, appa- ' rently that of the elk, with the hair off, and ornamented with various figures in black. At nine in the morning, the captains . again vifited the firft of the Indian towns, ' which lies near the entrance of the har- bour, where they were as well received as ' yefterday. It confifted of two rows of ^t'*-* •. — " houles. Il m ni ■'if illf lii ;■!■.. i!t| -1' .-'T m ( 206 ) houfcs, very ill built, and admitting both wind and rain ; the flench was very difagreeable, and might be fmelt at fome diftance. Their furniture confifted of a few bafkets and boxes, in which they put their fifliing-tackle, &c. the remaining part of the houfe being ornamented with rows of dried fifli. Upon the beach were ninety- four canoes, and the number of in- habitants were computed to be about four hundred. In the afternoon, one of the fervants of the Refolution's gun-room, from fome provocation received from one of the na- tives, wounded him in the upper part of his arm : the Indian was greatly enraged, quitted the (hip, and went into his canoe» where he made a long harangue, and threatened very hard. The affair was not enquired into, and the man, though pof- fibly verydeferving of it, wasnotpunifhed. Thurfday 23d. We were now employ- ed in bending our fails, and getting all ready for fea. The Indians for feveral 3 <^ay^ ( 207 ) days paCl brought very fine fpring onlona, which we very gladly bought, and they afterwards fupplied us fo well with them, that alinoft every one in the fhips fecured a fea (lock. Friday 24th. About feven in the even- ing, juft as it became dark, feven large canoes came round the north point of the cave. As the time of night was ra- ther unfeafonable, and we had fome little realbn, in confequence of the affair which happened on Wednefday, to fuppofe they intended fame foul play, we got under arms. We might however have faved ourfelves the trouble, for they offered not the leaft infult, and foon after came alongfide, and began to trade. They were well laden with ikins, particularly beaver, and. were well armed. Saturday 25th. At feven in the morn- ing, the Difcovery got up her ftream- anchor. The Indians who arrived laft night, departed about ten this morning, after entertaining us for fome time with feveral fii *i\ '^,4 ' rl n ( 268 ) fcreral of their fongs, which differed but little from thofe mentioned before, except that one of them danced in an antic man- ner, and wore a mafk, which he varied feveral times during the performance. The next day (26), the weather be- gan to affume its old appearance, and the hills were overhung with fogs. At two in the afternoon, the Refolutlon loofed her hawfers, got up her anchor, and with the afliftance of her boats was towed out of the cove; the Difcovery followed foon after, and captain Cook, as there was but little wind, began to doubt of clearing the harbour that night, and at firft feemed inclinable to ftand in for a bay which was fituated near the town, but a little after a fine breeze fprung up, which he was determined to make the moft of, fo both veiTels fpread all their fails, and made the bcft of their way out. CHAP, th^ ( 209 ) CHAP. XIV. m Account of King George* s Sound-^proJuce'-^ animals — inhabitants — temper — drefs-^ houfes — food — cookery — manufaBures^-^ canoes — Jijhing-tackle *- weapons -^tan^ KING George's Sound is fitu?ted on the N. W. coaft of America^ and is extenfive ; that part of it where the Ihips lay, and which we called Ship-CoVe, is in latitude 49 deg* 36 min. N. and lon-( gitude 233 deg. 28 min. E. The whole found is furrounded by high land, which in fome places appefars very broken and rugged, and is in general covered with ^ wood to the very top. It is well fupplied "with runs of watef^ . and wood may be procured \s^ithout ahy difficulty, as well as mafts of any fize, for' the trees grow remarkably tall and ftraitw The moft prevailing ones are fir of feveral * .Vol. L . P fpecie% i 'm\ I'm t if 11 ( 210 ) fpecies, yew, and arbor vita ; the others' are birch, maple, poplar, wiflow, and el- der. Of fhrubs there are cu/rani, goofe- berry, and rofe-trees, march eiftus, rafp- J)erriep, whortle-berries, and brambles* The pknts are much the feme as in our part of the world, fuch as pkntafn, dock, cudweed, fumitory, eye- bright, faxi- frage, netties> and vicJets. The foil is rich and loamy inland, but as you ap- proach the fhore it becomes more light atid fandy. The only living quadrupeds we faw, were fquirrcls and raccoons j thofe which we faw (kms of, were the bear, wolf, deer elk, \yti% or wild cat, fox, fea-beaver, and otter. The birds are eagles , hawks , ravens, crows, woodpeckers, creftcd j^tys, thrulh-. cs, a fmall beautiful fpecies of humming- bird, plovers,, duqks, (hags, and gulls. We faw no great variety of fifh -, what we purchafed, were chiefly of tl^e rp^ch and dace kind, an4 a fmall iiih very like an anchovy. Tl^e only H>ell-fi(h we ob- jiii ' ( "» ) M^tAf Were mtifclteSi Mikh Were v^fj/' plentiful among the rocks. The titles in the cove w'(^re regular in ftieir ebb and flow j at the flill and change of the moon it was high water at twenty- fix minutes after mid- day j its flow theil was eight feet and half. Befides this flow of the tided, we obferVed an irregular kind of outfet down the cove, which mufl have been occafioned cither by the nielt- irig of the fnow, or the rain which fell very fileritifully at tiiiles, and confequently cauf- ed a rtidre thanufual overflow. - The men, as has been before mentioned, Sfe in general below the rtiiddle fize, but freqi^ently we faw among therii fonfie fix feet high, and flout in proportion ; but they are alt badly made about the l6gs. Their colour has a fl:fortg tinge of ^he' Copper, but it is fo hid by dirt arid filth as not to be difcerned without fome diffi^^ culty. They have but little bUards, and th6 make of their face varies a good deal feme being as broad as they are long, P 2 , others ■<■■ I1 ■ .ill; • Mil Wmm '^ 'mm vi )fi»":.,\i.t;?. ■ itt-SM 1^1 u m ( 212 ) Others oval, but in all the cheek-bones are high and prominent. They were good-natured and friendly, unlefs provoked ; but when affronted their blood rifes immediately, ana their looks as well as adions plainly ihiew that they would immediately revenge them- felves, if it was in their power. Some- times they are in terrible paffions, which is very evident when they make a fpeech, or harangue each other; they foam at the mouth, and have the ftrangeft geftures imaginable, and, in fa£t, appear like per- fect madmen. Their hair is long and fhaggy, and naturally black, but fo bedaubed with red- earth, greafe, and dirt, and various other mixtures, that it is almoft impoflible to difcover its real colour. The men are very whimfical in ornamenting their faces, and every day Teems to produce a new face. When they have a mind to be particular, they make ufe of a kind of ftamp> compofed of the fmall twigs of trees, ( 2«3 ) trees, and formed according to fancy : thi* they dip into the prepared mixture of black, red or brown earth and oil, and then prefs it upon their face, which leaves the impreflion behind. Some Mack their faces entirely, and then fprinkle fmalJ particles of white or black talc (which they have here in abundance) upon it ; others make one half of their face black and the other red ; in (hort, their is no end to their fancy. One of their greateft beaux frequently was on board the (hips ; and in order to obferve the manner of painting their faces, a looking -glafs was fhewn him ; which he no fooner and the ufe of, than he fat down to dreis his face, which employed him full two hours ; for he no fooner put on one face than he difliked it, and demolifhed the whole, and continued rubbing out and painting, till he made one that pleafed him. " I ' i They frequently make a hole through the griftleofthenofe, in which they wear finall pieces of copper or brafs fufpended • ' ' P 3 by m m ' i H I II M i\ I !• : >y a thread, and fometimes they fill thQ orifice with fifties bones. Upon their, heads they wear a kitk^ o| bonnet of a very compadt texture* ff^n^ tijie top of which hanga a tailed ni<\de qf leather ; thefe bonnets are fojDp^etimes| made with a round globular top, but ux, general flat. They are frequently paint-, ed or ftained, in a rude through ingenious^ manner, with the form of fome large fiftv refembling a whahj purfued by. levprsl; canoes, and a man in one pf them in th^ adl of ftriking him. Round their (hpulder^ they wear a kind, of cloak, made of the interior bark of the. fir tree, and formed or wove in tlie fame manner as fome o£ the New Zlealand ha- boos : the bottom is generally fringed, and the neck part trimmed with the fur. of. the fea beaver. Some of them are. i;nade of the hair of an animal which re- fembles wool, but how or where they procured it we could never learn. They liiewife wear a kind of (hprt petticoat, f ompofi^d ( 4'S ) compbfed of the fame materials as the icloak, and both fometimes ornamented with an embroidered border. The men alfo frequently clothe them- felves in the ikins of beafts, particularly the bear, ivolf, and fea -beaver, and fortie have the fkin of a large animal, which we fuppofed to be that of the elk or moofe- deer, and exceedingly well tarmed and dreffed, fomething like our buckflcin, but much thicker, -•"' - • -,.,-^ ^■' Their ornaments are brac€;lets, made of horn, or copper ; necklaces, made of fiftt- bones, and lengths of platted hair and leather, which they wear upon their an- cles and wTifts, and fometimes upon both. They have alfo a method of marking or tattowing themfelve?, feveraj inftances of which wefaw; this w^s upon the arm, arid generally was the form of a large fiih, much refembliiig that upon their bon- nets. The women are clothed nearly the fame ^S th? men, but their faces are not daubed P 4 or IS . i; It M •I- 1 « /kti 'mi 'mm : > '11 vX ( 2i6 ) or painted of different colours, though pretty well befmeared with dirt, and they are not pofleffed of the fragrance of the rofe.' Notwithftanding thefe circum- (lances, fome few of oilr gentlemen got the better of their feelings, fo far as to admit them to their bed, in which cafe the poor creatures always underwent the ceremony of the mop and pail, and their hair was as well combed as time would \ permit ; for it is natural to fuppofe that fuch a load of filth muf^ har)}pur many very difagreeable comp?inion8» I It was a prevailing opinion, that the women brought on this occafjon, were not of theij: own tribe, but belonging to fome other, which they had overcome in bat- tle. What led us to fuppofe fo, was the different treatment which was obferved between thefe and thofe who were not expofed in this manner. The former were mute, did not dare to look up, apr peared quite dejeded, and were totally un- der the command of thofe who brought them ; ( 217 ) them: the latter on the contrary were as full of convcrfation as the men, behaved with eafe, and (comparatively fpeaking) evidently ware under no kind of con- troul. The houfes or habitations of thefc peo- ple, are built of wood, and are cold, fil- thy, and {linking. The roof is nearly flat, and covered with planks, which they can move as occafion requires. They are placed fo loofely, and at fuch a di- ftance from each other, as to admit the wind and rain with great freedom ; the fides are not much more compaftly put together, fo that they afford but little warmth. At a fmall diftance from the houfes a number of poles, with others tied acrofs, were created, which Teemed to be for the purpofe of drying fifli, and whale's flelh ; and in the front of mod of th** houfes was part of the trunk of a very large tree elevated upon pofts which mull have occafioned them immenfe la- bp^r and pains to raife up in this man- .:, . V ner; .:;:i lim .Si 'i>^a ;|:ij^l / I i ( 218 ) ncr ; this we could never learn the ufe of. Thdf furniture has been mcntiohed before ; but at the ?9pper end (if fuch a diftindlion can properly bp made] of Ibme houfes, were placed two large carVed pieces of wood, refembjing a monftrous face. Some were of opinion that thefe were what they pai4 fome degree of fu- perftitious refpedl to, but as we never iaw an inilance pf it, it can be but con* je^ure. ' Their food confifts of blubber, frelh and dried fifli, mufcles, which they have in great abundance, dried whale's fiettir the roes of fiih dried, and roots of de- ferent kinds, particularly of a fpecics of fern, which has a fWeetifh tafte. They boil their fifli in wooden troughs, into which they put a conftant fucceflion of red-hot ftones, and by that means keep the water fimmering till they are fuf^ ficiently done. Their drink is water and train-oil, and in the latter they , frequently 1.1a ( 2^^ ) frequently dip thei^p (}ry mufcle^ aii4 fifh. The interior bark of the fir-tree, is whj^t they manqfafture their cloaks of,, in p-f neral. After it is 4ry, they beat it v^;itha bone-inlh'umeqt, which has grooves in it on one fide, fomething like thofe of ^he Society Ifles, till the Ebres are fuf- ficiently feparatedf after which it is fit for The boxes and chefts which thefe peo- ple makcr are fometiipes very large, and ornamented with human teeth and carved *\York ; at the latter they are very clever and ingenious; we purchafed of them, variety of images in different attitudes, but they principally excel in their imi<^ tations of the heads of animals, and the human face, fome of which are by no means contemptible. Their canoes are of various fizes ; the largeft being capacious enough to contain fifty people, ^hc fmalleft three. The principal ones are ornamented at the head "v.,,^..'. ■ and *« «.j - ( 220 ) and ilern with human teeth placed in various forms, and their fides with the figures of hearts and large fifli, rudely painted in white. They are apparently made out of one tree, but the upper part of the head and ftern are feparate pieces, and tied on by cords, made of the twifted baf k of the fir-tree. They are very dex- terous in managing thefe canoes, and keep very exa<5l time with their paddles, which are about five feet long, the blade and' pointed extremity being near two thirds of the whole. We faw fcarce any tools amongft them except knives, which were of a femi- circular form, and badly made, but it is evident that they muft have others from the manner in which they carve. '" Thefe people are very ingenious in making calls to imitate the notes of dif- ferent birds and animals, by which means they take great numbers ; they likewife make ufe *of whalebone fprings, like thofe ufed with us to catch fnipes. Amongft * c:. ' other i-ll1 ■ « a ( 221 ) ; , other articles of trade they frequently brought birds of fevcral kinds for falc, particularly a beautiful fpecies of hum- ming bird, and a bird of the fnipe kind, and it is not improbable but fome of them were caught in this manner. '"''^• Their fifliing-tackle is of feveral kinds. • That which they ufe in killing the whale, is fometimes compofed of bone, and fome- times of (hell. That of bone is about fix inches in length, very (harp at the end, and furniftied with two barbs, one above the other * the upper end of this is io contrived, by means of a focket, as to fix upon a rod or pole about ten feet in length ; this rod is forked at the end, fo that two of the pieces of bone are to be fixed on at the fame time. To that ex- tremity of the bone, which is placed upon the pole, is tied a long and very ftrong rope, at the end of which is fixed a feal- fkin blown up. The animal is no fooner Aruck than the bone flips out of the fock- et, and remains fixed in its body, and the feaU I I T '.•L.A. L .1 'X»;hH 4-m 'I'M am m 1:* ,! i -in n§ S', ■" ( 222 ) ibd«{kin prevents it from keeping ioHg under water, when they purfue it, and foon pierce it to death with their fpears. The others are made of mufcle-ihells, ground Very (harp at the fide as well as point, and are exactly upon the fame plan as the others. Their fifh-hooks are made of bone^ tvith a very (harp and barbed point ; their ufual bate are mufcles. Their method of catching fmall fifh iS by means of a kind of grate, made of fmall pieces of wood tied together j this they place in the nar- row ftreams or inlets about the time of high water ; all the iiih which were be- tween this and the fea mull of courfe bcJ left behind at low water. The weapons ufed by theiA arc fpears^ pata-patoW8, and bows and arrows. The fpears are of different length*, and point- ed with bone ; the pata-patows arc niadcr fome of wood and others of flone, and- nearly of the fame form as thofe of Ne^-' Zealand* Their bows are about four feet and ijf' ( "3 ) and half in length, made of yew, and rather round in the middle, from whence they increafe in width and become flat, gradually tapering to a point ; the firing is made of twifted gut. The arrows are ne^r three feet in kngth, and feathered at one end, the other is Ibmetimes pointed with bone, fomctimes with co^pper, and frequently with mufcle-lhell, but always barbed. Thefe people wiere very fond of pieces of brafs, copper, tin, and pewter, par- ticularly if bright, and formed fo as to make bracelates : even buttons were good trade : thefe they tied with a piece of firing and put round their wrifts. Iron did not appear to be much valued, though they very readily took it : it is certain that they mufl have fome way of procuring it, and probably from the fouthward towards- California, for ihey bad a number of knives of different fizes, but all made very badly, and in a femicireular form, a i One -dV-^ V't ■'i;i I 1 I Sr.'i'it'f 1 ,3.":ii. :lt^ II 1^! (•f ( 224 ) One day when trade was going on along -fide the Refolution, the natives of- fered two filver fpoons to fale, which were immediately purchafed and given to Cap- tain Cook : they appeared to be of a very old make, and were fomewhat different from our's in form. We were not able to learn from whence they had them, but this circumflance favours our belief of their having connexions to the fouth- ward. Their language is harfh and difagree- able ; an idea may be formed of it from the following vocabulary : A. Aa^'taob AVhi-lik Acho-cho^mer AchoVk-luk \ AVk-amumpts A^haa Aha^-ahah / Bone of any kind. What does he fay ? {A kind of woo], of which fomc of their cloaks, were made. What is this ? Grafs, That. To breathe. AMlab Alle^-famdh AloQ-i^xfoop Ama^m-nultz A^n-ama Aow-co^omer Aow-watli^nni AVfoop Apuckofamii Ark.a^lcqua Afh-poVnet A^ih-lufe As^-luctz A*we^-amuj ( 225 ) (Look this way. Tliis ij made ufe of, when fpeak- ing to any one and they do not hear. Cold. To tie a kndt. A iiih of th6 herring kirid« The nipple. The image of a man* An eagle. The hair. The beard. To cut. The currant'bulh* The face. The lip. The cheek. .'m mri r! i ^ m C. CaWa Thrcycf. " Cau^ts-hock Cloathing. Cheche-anacoo^md The fingers. Cheche-c^heah The teeth. Che^cletz A baflcet. Chi^l-ahak The nails. Chim-i^nney A fifli-hoofc. Cheto^-eltZ r a weapon refembling a 1 Zealand patow* Cho^ap The tongue, ' Cla^h-afheet To get up. Vol. I. q, Clacblack. id ( 226 ) Clahclack-to^ma The foot. Cla^-umiz Train-oil. Cla^t-war To paddle. Cla^y-whamiz. The clouds. C^Jeclct* - To (hoot an arrow or fire 1 a gun. Clyo^rai Give me fomething more. Co-conix^o The hand. Co^-os A man. Cor Shew it me. Co-do^ A fword or knife. E. EMfcet E^mick £ni% or No £n-oo^me E^-oo-mer Etch-a^tow Etts-auk Etts-muVket Fifli of any kind. Fire. The Iky. To fuck. To eat, A fpear. j Wood. The root of the fern-pTant. n. H^ack-onek A box. H^aiyea A fnake. How-wbilk Friend. I. rfuck Jah-i^fimer Onions. A raccon. ( 227 ) Jfa^h-putt Jah-po^aks A canoe. Copper, or brafs Itah»a^nn6 ka^ts-kahmany Kle^choclc ICom-me^tcha Kom-mu-^ttle (beet Ko^os-hinne Ko^iha KoV-iltz £oV-weeb A crow. A butterfly. A bear«fkin. To hop. To run. A faven. Stnoak. "^^ To fteal. The elder- trer» LaMa-^Ieach Lu^k-iheet To look at. Freih water. Ma^ki.H^a Maak-o^ok Mora MooftaUte MuVn' - y i ( 233 ) f k • ■» » The 4th was 'fine and clear, with light freezes, which induced us to ftand nearer m for the land, ■ Our latitude was 58 deg. 21 min. N. and longitude 220 deg, 36 E. we faw a great number of feaU jitid fevfiral whales, with innunrierable flocks of gulls and brown petrels. ^ The 5th, 6th, and 7th, were fine and pleafant, with light winds, and fmooth wa- ter, which rendered our approach to Cape St. Ellas very flow. We had now num- bers bf whales about, and on the 6th, at three in the afternoon foifnded, and found ?i flifF muddy bottom at the depth of fixty iathom. ' From the 8th to the 1 cth, we had fcarce any wind. In the evening of the 9th, we fiw land to the weflward of cape St. Ellas, the extremes extending at eight from S. 84. deg. W. to N. 42 Oeg. Jj/. ,, .fill-,. .j\.:i: Jiii fiilvjA.; ,i '^.Our latitude on the icth, was 59 deg. 52 min. N. and at noon the land e?^- tended from N. 60 deg. \V. to E. by N, pur dillance from the fhore about three , f^.y,-p i;;r^' league^ . - ^H •IM m: ( 234 ) leagues* We had light airs and calms al- xnoft throughout the next day, till to- wards evening, when a fine breeze fprung up from the eaftward. During the calm, captaii Cook ordered out a boat, and went on Ihore at the neareft place, which was an ifland not above a league from us. He faw a red fox, which made off as foon as it faw him. "Vhilft he was abfent, we founded two or three times, and found a muddy bottom at thirty fathoms. In the evening we faw many feals in pairs. The 1 2th was heavy and cloudy, with a breeze from the eaftward. At five in the morning, we faw tliC appearance of an inlet bearing N. -f E. and at feven founded, and got " ground at fifty-three fathom, muddy bottom, about fix or feven leagues off fhore. At eight we hore away, keeping a S. W. courfc, when that point of it fet at five, bore N. by E. 4 E. At noon, we difcovered another open-^ ing, the eaftermoft part of which bore '. : " "■ ■ ■ due » ( HS ) due W. our latitude being 59 deg. 54 min. N. At half paft twelve we bore away for this opening : at three the weather became hazy and foggy, with fmall drizzling rain, and at four the Refolution hauled up to/N. N. E. for a deep bay on the eaftern fide of the opening, which formed a cape by the falling back of the laiid ; this cape was named Cape Hin- chinbrook. At five our foundings were from five to nine fathoms, and at fix we anchored in twelve fathom, muddv bot- tom. The harbour in which we lay, ap- peared to be furrounded in every dire(!tion by land, which was much higher than at King George's found, and more co^ vered with fnow. The (hore was com- pofed almoft entirely of rocks, nearly perpendicular, but of no very great height, with here and there a fmall Tandy beach. The trees were of the fame kind as at the laft place, but not fo large or nume- rous, nor did they grow up to the tops of the mountains. .' ' Soon I ill M .if I' ■ - .». If !! ( 236 ) Soon after we had anchored, a party were lent in the Refolution's pinnace to explore the oppofite fide of the bay, and our feamen on board got out their hooks and lines, and in a iliort time caught feveral fine cod fifli, which proved a per- fe Thefe people were fond of blue beads, for five or fix of which a beaver-fkin might be purchafed worth ninety or a hundred dollars. • • ,■ v • ..• The next day (May i6th), was rainy during the whole morning, but in the afternoon it became fine and pleafant, and we had many canoes alongfide trading. This place abounds with innumerable flocks of wild fowl, and ^many (hooting- parties were out, but they always returned with very little game, occafioned by the great fhynefs of the birds, which pro- bably are harraffed a good deal by the na- tives. . - , -.^ , , At half pail two the next morning, we weighed and made fail with a light breeze, our eourfe being about S. W- but wd found ourfelves fb furrounded with land, R 2 th*^ MjIfV i'lf Mi i (244 ) tliat we were at a lofs in fome theafure which way to proceed. At eight, our foundings were from fifty to fifteen fa- thoms at about one mile from (hore, and from fifteen to five off a cluder of rocks. At eleven, we fhoalcd from ten to five fathom, and foon after the winds became Very light, and the weather had an tin-> promifing appearance, in confequence of which captain G)ok gave orders to bring the ihips to an anchor, a^ foon as they could be got to a convenient fpot. At noon, our latitude was 60 deg. 51 min. N. and at half paft two we came-to in nineteen fathom^ a muddy bottom. The captain having received intelli- gence from fome of the natives of an opening at or near the bottom of the bay we now were in, thought it a good op-* portunity to afcertain the truth of it* Soon after, boats from both fhips were fent, well manned and armed, with orders to the officers to proceed in dif- ferent ( 245 ); ^ . fcrent diredlions, and penetrate as far as they thought prudent. 1 hey returned iiji the evening, but difcovered nothing of ^ny confequence. The next morning at half paft three we again weighed and niade fail, our courfe being nearly due fouth, but the wind was fo light that we made poor work of it. We were now (landing acrofs to the oppofite or weftern fide of this ex- tenfiye foupd. At noon, our latitude was 6o deg^ 31 min. N. and our longitude about 212 deg. 36 min. £. In the after* noon about four, a large canoe, with feven Americans, overtook us, and made figns for a boat to be got out, and go alongfide them, to trade. This requeft of their's was complied with, but nothing was purchafed except a cap, as they did not appear fond of out articles of trade, which confifted of knives, hatchets, and beads of different forts. They varied in no refpedt from thofe we faw on the 1 6th, f xcept haying more ornaments in the flit .r R3 of ■"■Jl ill M ■m ( 246 ) of their under lip. At five the wind fliifted, which obliged us to tack ; at half pall fix our foundings were fifty fathoms, -he bottom coarfe /and, and at ten they i^aried from twelve to twenty fathoms. We were obliged to tack frequently in he night, and proceeded with great care ind circumfpedion, there being many rocks fcattered ifi various parts of the channel we were now entering. . ]/ ■^ As we went on the next day (May 19th), we; faw an incredible number of whales and feals fporting round us, from whence we concluded that we were nearly out of the found, and not far from the fea. . Soon after the weather became thick and foggy, with fmall rain, ai^d at half paft ten our foundings were twenty-two fa- thom, muddy bottom. At five in the afternoon we founded again, and got from thirty-three to twenty-one fathom, and at nine let go our anchors for the pight, in twenty-feven fathom, about three miles from the eaftern fhore. ( 247 ) , ^ The next morning was thick and fog- gy. About ten, a fine little breeze fprung up from the N. N. E. which both ftiips took the advantage of, weighed their an- chors, and made all fail. The heft part of the afternoon we were {landing through the channel, and at five, being clear of it, and again in the open fea, we faw land as far to the fouthward as S. 53 deg. v W. which extreme at fix bore S, 7 deg. W. Sandwich Sound, fo called by captain Cdok in honour of his lordfliip, is very large and extenfive. It is formed on the weftern fide by along ifland, which was called Mo. 'ague Tfland, and is bounded on the ealtern fide, by the c(^n- tinent, at leaft what we fuppofed to be the continent, though it is not improbable but it maybe a chain of iflands. ' From what little we faw of it, the pro- du(5lion8 appear to be much the fame as at King C;tei;r;;e's Sound. The foil is deep and black, intermixed in fome places with ftreaks of blue clay. R4 It i III I ,.-pf 1' T* 1'. K IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) vQ vl ^r m /A W^'W '/ 1.0 |^|28 |50 "^ u h4 2.5 2.2 I.I Ui liO 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 \h -* 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WESTMAINSiMl^iT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^ i ( «48 ) • It affords expellent ihelter for all kinds pf wa^er fowl, but they arc fliy to a de- gree. The principal land-birds we faw yvprp eaglep, lhr>i(hes, growfp, owls^ fnipes, and ffgveral fmaller birds; W met with no quadrupeds, but frequently faw the tracks of bears in the fnow. The inhabitants of this place f^em to form the line of connexion between thofe pf Kiqg Geofge's Sound, and the natives of Unalafchka, and the other weftern part^ pf America. Like the former, they daub th*jir faces, have the fame ftrange gef- tures (though not in fo high a degree) when they make a fpeech, wear nearly the fame caps, and fome pf them are clothed in the ikins of beaft$. But they are much more fimijar to the latter 5 their hair is cut fliort : they have the fame blad- f3cr dfefs; their canoes are covered with fkin in the fame manner; they have s^ hole in tlie under lip, in which they fi:?? prnapaents, and many of their weapons are exa^ly the fame. CHAP. \ { «49 > V ' C H A p. XVi. u ^tf^w Sandwich Sound, and '^Continue /§ /r^r^ /A^ coafi'^diftf/uer the river Turn-^ '' agmri'^tranfa^i^m during 6ur ^wrfe up find dowtf the river^^^ecurrences during pur run akng the coqji tiU our arrival in Providence Bay, WE had a fine frefli breeze oq the- twenty-firft, from the N. W. which aflifted us greatly, and we c6n^ tinued to trace the coaft, which ran near- ly in a S. W. dire^ion. The land was not fo high as that of Sandwich Sound* but equally rugged and uneven, and al« moft entirely covered with fnow. Our latitude, at noon, was 59 deg. 30 min. ' N. and our longitude 208 deg. 44 min. E. We paflcd much rock- weed, flraw» pieces of Aicks, and feathers, which moft likely came from fome inlet or river. The next day (2 2d), our breeze changed fP ^ gale, which handled us very roughly, o - and ( 250 ) and made us clofe-re^f our top-fails, but we ftill kept nearly a S. S. W. courfe, though at a good diilance from the land. At eleven we faw more land, bearing S, W. and at ivoon were in latitude 58 degc 23 min. N. In the afternoon the wind became more mo|icrate, and at fix we tacked {^ip, and ftood to the northward. }\ The 3d was clear and pleafant, but\ ^rendered cold by the wind which blew off the ^ and. At half paftten, being well in with it, tacked j at noon, our latitude was 59 deg/9 min. N. The land here form- ed a coniiderable bay, and bid fair for fome difcovery, which induced Captain Cook to examine it. The whole of the next day was fpent in turning to wind- ward, and we faw numbers of fhags, gulls, and puffins. '^• The weather on the 25th, was pleafant, with a fine breeze from the N. N. E. our courfe being N. W. -At feven, our found- ings were from thirty -two to twenty fa- thom, wdth a rocky bottom. About nine, r wQ ( 25« ) wre faw the appearance of a wide inlet, - upon our larboard bow, which we hoped to derive fome advantage from, and foon- after obferved a large fuioke upon a part of the land, which had the appearance > of an ifland. At noon, the eaftern part of this fuppofed ifland bore S. 37 deg. E. about nine leagues diilant, and the inlet mentioned above N. N. W. -J W. for which we were now dired than we expe -.$ noes !;<• ; ill w:^!^ ( ^58 ) 110C8 too were the fame. At fix out foundings were from forty-two to thirteen fathom, and at eight we let go our an- chors in twenty, fathom, with a bottom of yellow clay and mud. This tide be- friended us greatly ; for notwithftanding we were turning to windward, and of courfe obliged to tack frequently, we made nearly twelve leagues. We were ^ now ;iibout two miles from the weftcrn fide of the river, which had a fine and ^ beautiful appearance, being every where * covered with trees. The (hores now tended to the N. W. j^% three quarters pafl one, thQ.next iTjiorning (31ft}, the ftreamfetting to the fouihward ended, and at three we got up o^r anchors^ made fail^ and purfued our courfe. At fix we had from thirty two to fifteeri fathoms i at half paft eight the tide ended, fetting to the northward, and at lialf paft nine we anchored again. Soon after, five canoes, viz. two large and three iiniill 'with feveral of the natives, who had fS'v Ci« ( *59 ) liad for fonie time been endeavourinor td overtake U8, came under our ftern; in eacH of the large canoes were fixteen or feven* teen people, in the fmall ones two, Wd pufchafed very little of them, as theii? vifit feemed to be the cfFedt of curiofity, and they were, not very willing to trade. Their drefs was made of the fkiiis of fmall animals fewed together, and fur-* ni(hed with fleeves. This animal is called by the Ruffians, yevrafhka. Their cheek bones were very high, and one of them had fome blue beads in the flit of the under-lip. At firft, the weather was very thick and hazy, which greatly ob- ftru^ed our vilion; but about noon it became more clear, and we faw a large inlet on the eaftern fhore, bearing N, y6 deg. E. which from its fituation may po{^ fibly have fome connexion with Sand- wich Sound : the reft of our view was terminated on all fides by land, fome of which was very low, and nearly on a -'—■f- '-".;.■ S 2 ;" level •■ i ' -iff'ii ! 'IS ^'-*- V) ( 269 ^ level with the water. Our latitude to- day by account was 6ideg. 12 min. N. At three, captain Cook fent his and the Difcovery's cutters to explore an open- ing behind the low land. At four we weighed and flood nearer in ihore, and at half paft fix came- to again. Some lit- tle time after, feveral Americans, in Isven canoes, put off from the weftern fhore, and came along-fide. We purchafed feveral articles in the curiofity-way, fuch as bows, arrows, fkin-jackets, darts, and martin fkins. They had a great number of blue beads, which they prized very highly : it is very , probable that the Ruflians from Ochotfzk and Kamtfchatka vifit thefe people frequently and regularly, on account of the fur8> &c. which no doubt turn to very good account. At one in the morning (June ift), the cutters returned, with an account of hav- ing foui^i an opening to the north-eaft- ward, behind the narrow ridge of land, n to a kind of river or lake ; the broadeft part &, { z6t ) -^ r f'^ '^-^ -. was between four and five leagues acrofs, the narroweft about Z.T- '^ ^PP-^-^" ^° extend a con fid«.able wa,. and they had foundin; from fifteen to twenty fe.hom,, ,u. bol torn fand and final! ftones ^ At four we weighed, and at eight the covery , large cutter, which with their own were fer.. to explore the inlet on the eaflernlhore. Our foundings were fronx feven to ffe.enteen fathoms. When Z got up our anchors this morning, we- found from the moft exaft „l,r» • we coiiM „, u I obfervations we could make, that the tide had fallen between twentv-thr^^ j feet At .1 ^""^ twenty-four hi f „i t '" ""^ ^"^'^^^ed. and at la'f Paft, the cutters returnoH . ,1. • . ;nd tide we.ero much aStLrn^:: prevent their entrance, but Z'yl^ enough to convince them that t waT fides. Havmg thus explored this river S3 as w 1. I'l! ^*i .1 !i. iir, ! r; ■*■' ( 26? ) as far as it was pofTible to cairy the flilps, nothing now remained, but for us to make , the beft of our way back again. Captain Cook called it the River Tqrnagain. At half part two, the cutters, with an officer, were fent to take pofTeffion of this part of America, and at four we weighed, but i at feven let go pur anchors agaiq. At half paft feven the boats returned : they had met with feveral of the natives, who at firft appeared afraid, and retired . among the trees, but afterwards, finding pijr people had no intention to hurt therp, they readily carpe forward. They had many dogs with them, one of which was bought, and carried on board as afrefh meal, ^nd two or three pieces of falmon, which were alfo purchafed. The foil was good, but only about ^i foot deep, under which • was a bed of cold fand with a fmall mix- ture of clay : there were abundance of trees, fuchas willows, birch, poplar, elder, lir, and many rafpberry, rofe, and currant- ^rees. At half pafl eleven, the tide ber tk^j ing favourable, we weighed, and at twelve the point where the cutters landed, which was called Point Pofleflion, bore S. E. \ •i-S. our diftance off (hore fix or feven miles. Our latitude to-day was 6i dcg. 6 min. N. ^ . ...^ ; : / ,. r.*,. We came-to at five the next morning, , in feventeen fathoms, fandy bottom, about four miles off fliore, when Point Poffeflion bore N. 6i deg. E. Several of the natives came off to us in their canoes, of whom we bought bows, ar- rows, quivers, and various other articles in the curiofity-way, as alio ermine, mar- tin, and fox (kins. At half paft ten the tide became fa- vourable and we weighed, but at two the Refolution ftruck on a bank with only two and two and half fathoms of water upon it, where fhe continued till flood-tide. The difcovery immediately anchored as per fignal from the Refolution. At fiTC, it being nearly high water, flie hoifted her fails and got off, ftanding out beyond 34 the m I: 8 '4 W ::y;| m n't n- I iii ( 264 ) , theflioal, when ihe anchored. Many of the natives now came to us, of whom wc bought fome excellent frefli falmon, and likewife fome large pieces of halibut. This afforded us a treat which we had not experienced before for a long time, and which we now ftood much in need ofl '^ ':^v '>o '' ' :■■•■' •'..'{■:,• The next morning (June 3d,) about fix, foon after we had anchored, a large canoe, entirely laden with frefli falmon, came along-fide ; the whole cargo was foon bought, and at a very moderate price, for half a falmon might be purchafed for a nail or button. We alfo bought ^ bafket full of fmall red berries, refembling currants, which made moft excellent pies.> We now for the firft time obferved, that fome of the Americans made ufe of double paddles, like thofe of thie Efquimaux. At eleven we got up our anchors and made fail, but the wind, which had now iliifted to the fouthward, impeded us in our progrefs greatly. About three the Dif- . covcry /'4^ ( 26s ) covcry was near being aground, having (hoaled her water ail at once from feven* teen to five fathoms, but with the aflift- ance of her fmall cutter ihe was towed into deeper water. .< .. We now went on, anchoring and weighing alternately every fix hours, and the nearer we approached the fea, the lefs we were affected by the tide. On the 5th, about eleven in the morning, being near the fpot where the Refolutioa loft her anchor and cable, ihe got out two of her boats, and endeavoured to recover them by fweeping, but they failed in their attempts, and were obliged to leave both behind. In the afternoon we obferved a fmoke upon the top of a high mountain, which , with the afliftance of our glafles, we plainly faw iffued out of a fmall fif- fure or opening near its fummit. At half paft feven we anchored, when Mount St. Auguftine bore S. 60 deg. W. the volcano, N. 65 deg. W. and the extreme* of the rocky ifles (which we paffed in coming -< t ; ;w 1 i ( 266 ) coming up, and which captain Cook de- nominated, Barren Ifles, from their defo- late appearance) S. 9 deg. E. to S. 30 cleg. E. our diftance from the eaflera ihore being feven miles. At twelve we weighed for the laft time in the river, and made fail with a fine breeze from the \V. S. W. our courfe being near S. S. E. and S. E. . At four the next morning (June jth). Mount St. Auguftine bore S. 78 deg. W. the volcano N. 34 deg. \V. and the weftern part of the Barren Ifles fouih, our diflance off fhore being about three leagues. At noon, 'our latitude was 58 deg. 38 min. N. and we faw many whales about, one of which had its head almoft covered with barnacles. About eight in the evening, during a calm interval, one of the Dif- covery's people faw a large fifh fwimming near the fhip's head ; he diredly got a liook and line, and foon after caught it ; while he was hauling it up the ihip's fide feveral others made their ap- ^J" - ■^' • pearance, :i 1 ( 267 ) pearance, which were no fooner leen than almoft every perfon en board pre- pared their hooks and lines, and in the fpace of a quarter of an hour, thirteen were taken, and many more made their efcape. They were of the halibut kind, and fome of them were above four feet in length, and weighed fixty pounds. This fortunate capture furnifhed us with another treat, and raifed the fpirits of every one on board. The Refolution was rather more lucky than the DifCo- very. — \ ,.'■ '■^■•■:,'-. The next day {June 7th), the weather became thick and hazy, with light airs and calms; which rendered our fituation irkfome and difagreeable, as we were ex- ceeding anxious to purfue our courfe with all expedition, as the feafon advanced very faft, and we had an immenfe track of land to explore. We faw many birds to-day, fuch as piifEns, guillemots, and petrels. Our M I '^i $i »«««»»»*«9»rw..- » ■" ( 268 ) I Our weather on the 8th was cloudy with a breeze from the S. S. £. our courfe £. At noon we tacked, and flood to the S. W. our latitude being 57 deg. 54 min. N. a high black hill which ap- peared to be an ifle, then bore S. 71 deg. W. and the fouthermoft land in fight, S. 2C deg. W. The 9th was thick and hazy, with finall drizzling rain, and the wind ftill kept in its old quarter. At half paft five we tacked fhip, being very near th€ landt which the hazinefsof the weather pre- vented our feeing before 5 the extremes of it then bore N. by W. and W. S. W. our diftance from a rocky point about two miles. . V t The icth and nth were thick and hazy, which rendered exploring a tedious bufinefs, and the wind ftill continued un- favourable. Our foundings thefe two days were from thirty to fifty- five fa- thoms, with a coarfe, black, fandy bottom. We ( 269 ) We faw feveral flocks of ducks, and fome curlews ; an indication that we were noC far from land. At five in the afternoon the fog became fo thick that the (hips loil fight of each other, but as they fired guns as fignals to each other, they were fortu- nate enough not to part company. At ten, the fog clearing away to the weft ward, we faw the land bearing W. by S. ^.n if^ The 1 2th and 13th were fpent in work- ing to windward : our latitude on the lat- ter day was 56 deg. 49 min. N. The fouthermoft land made in a gentle decline for a confiderable way, the northern on the contrary was very high, forming hills and mountains, but with very little fnow even upon the higheft; the whole prefented a moft barren appearance, with- out the leaft verdure. In the afternoon we faw fome iflands laying off to the eaft- ward. .^.fTrii V. , ;uV3' 3r^i brjj:.-;e3'yn:.:::> On the 14th we had open cloudy weather, with moderate breezes from the S. W. our courfe being S. S. E. At three ,7 -p > < in 'W '■*. Ha y-WM , -aJ l| m e „ ( 270 ) in the morning, our fdulidings were feven-* ty-five fathom. At half part nine, we were running along the eaftern fide of the iflands mentioned yeilerday as laying to the eaflward, at the diftance of about two miles. They appeared to be a mafs of foliJ rock, crufted' over in a few places with mofs, which was the only produce of them. Our latitude at noon was 56 deg. 23 min. N. when the extremes of the iflands bore S. 80 deg. W. and N. 43 deg. W. diftant about three leagues. At eight it became hazy, and we had a. great number of feals, whales, and birds about, and at ten the wind fhifted to S. E. by E. our courfe being W. by S. •': The next day (June 15th), we had fine fteady gales from the E. and E. S. E. with cloudy weather; we made all the advantage we could of this favourable change, and fet every fail the fhips could carry. About noon it became very thick and hazy, with a fmall continued rain. At half paft two we faw^ the land bearing iU N.W. ( 271 ) \ N. W. by W. about three leagues diftanf,-'* and at three we hauled our wind, keeping a foutherly courfe. We had a very ir- regular fea going, and at eight fcarce any wind. At nine it b»;gan to clear up, when we faw a high blufF ifland bearing W. S. W. and more land to the weft- ward, which appeared to be part of the continent ; the former captain Cook called Foggy Ifland, the latter Foggy Cape ; our foundings then were feventy-two fathom,- ^ with a bottom of fand and mud. At twelve we wore (hip. . . 17^ Our courfe the next day was S. S. W. with a fine breeze from the W. N. W.'^ At two in the morning our founding* were forty-five fathom, and at three w€ faw land, bearing S. E. by E. - E. At four Foggy Ifland bore S. W. I W. The Und in this part was very irregular, and made in many broken points, fome high and others low, with a good deal of fnow upon various parts of it. There were feveral fmall iflands of various fhapes and fizes at fome diflaace from it, one of which ' '^'1 k ■ 1 1 '^!1 ' '^ i ■•*i'i m bi.!ij ■il I' 1 ' "Vf ; • il m hm la'^'^l (^ was /' r S t.- ( 271 ) was fomething like a church with two fpires, and was called Pinnacle Point. At eight this point bore N. 67 de^. W. • The weather was fo hazy at noon that we could get no obfervation : our found- ings were (ixty-five fathoms. At three it became almoft calm, and at four the ex- tremes of the land bore N. 11 deg. W. and S. 71 deg. W. At eight Pinnacle Point bore N. 28 deg. W. our diftancc from the fhore about fix leagues. ■4 'June 17th, we had light airs and fine weather. At four the extremes of the land bore N. 3 deg. W. and S. 64 deg. W. and at eight we faw more land to the fouthward, bearing S. 23 deg. W. At n^on our latitude was ^^ deg. 30 min. N. and longitude 201 deg. 9 min. E. We faw many fmall ides in various parts, and in the afternoon obferved innumerable fiocks of birds of the diver kind, and many whales. The whole of the next day was plea- fant, with calm weather till towards the evening, when a little breeze fprung up 6 from { 2?3 ) from the E. S, E, which on the iQtli Irl- treafed to a fine gale, out courfe being W. S. W. At four in the morning d clufter of ifles, which in the Ruffiart Voyages are called Schumagin's Ifles, bore S. 47 deg. W. and the weft point 01 the main S. 'j'] deg. W* biir diftancc oflf fliore beiiig about five leagues. Thefe ifles were in fadt nothing but huge rocks, with- out the leaft appearaiice of verdure, and afforded a fine retreat for the water fowl : the main was almoft entirely (Covered with fndw. At noon our latitude was 55 -'^ On June 21ft, we had fine weather and cahns. At eight the high mountain bore ^ N. 1 2 deg. W. and at ten owr foundings were thirty-five fathom^ the bottom fand and finall ftones. At neon our latitude was 54 deg. 17 min. N. when the high mounrain bore N. 5 deg. W. and the wellermoftof two other very high-peaked mountains, which proved to be a volcano, N. 8 1 deg. W. During the afternoon we caught a vaft number of halibuts, fome of which meafured five feet ten inches in length, and weighed upwards of one hundred and twenty pounds. The next day was rather hazy and f()t?gy, with light airs and calms, till to- wards noon, when it cleared up a little, and we faw the volcano bearing N. 52 deg. W. our latitude being 53 deg. 51 min. N. In the evening it became hazy and rainy, and the wind (hiftcd to the fouth-eaftward. ( ^n ) '^ The 23d was much the fame as the pre- ceding day with refped to weather, and we faw nothing of the land till four in the afternoon, when it bore W. by N. diftant about fix leagues, and at fix the high mountain (not the volcano) N. 75 deg. W. twelve leagues diftant. ^-' The weather on the 24th was thick and cloudy, and we had frefh breezes from the weftward. At ten we tacked (hip, and ftood to the fouth ward, with the wind at W. S. W. We faw innumerable flocks of birds pafling by from the fouth- ward to the northward, and at noon the extremes of the main bore N. N. E. and N. W. by N. 'diftant eight leagues. At two in the afternoon we founded, and got ground at fifty-three fathom, with a black fandy bottom, and at four tacked and ftood to the W. N. W. the wind being S. W. ■ ■ c ' :■ ;---•- ' ■ ■} We had a fine little breeze from the caftward the next day, and we altered our courfe to W. S. W. At eight the vol- cano bore N. 9 deg. E. and at ten we faw T 3 • more 1!^ i| ;!l«| ::l ■M^^i /( *78 ) more land to the W. N. W. and hauled our wind. We faw a great number of birds a.nd whales. At half paft eight in the evening, we faw more land to the W. S. W. appearing as two iflands, the fouthermoft the higheft ; and at eleven, the weather becoming foggy, we haulpd pff ihore, our courfe being S. E. v, E. with the wind at N. E. by E. , ;-, J-., At half paft one the next morning (June 2 6th) we bore away, our courfe being , W. S. W. the wind E. by S. At half paft four, as we were running on, the weather being very thick and foggy, the Refolution hailed the Difcovery, and defired her to come-to immediately, as there was a noife at no great diftance from us, exadly refembling the furf breaking upon the fhore. Both fhips very foon after let go their anchors, and in the courfe of a few minutes the fog cleared away, and we found, to our great furprize, that we were in the mouth of a fmall bay, . not above a mile from ftiore, and furrounded in various diredions by fmall iflands and t .' V; rock? < 279 ) rocks. That our fituation may be the better afcertained, it fnay not be amifs to give the bearings and diftances of the va- rious rocks, &c. the extremes of the land off w^hich we lay, bore N. and S. 5 deg. E. An ifland lying off the northern part of it, N. -^ W. a fandy bay, S.VL diftant one mile ; a high rock S. li. by S. one mile diftant, and other rocks, above water, E. 7 N. diftant a mile and half. This was a moft providential efcape ; if we had ftood on five minutes longer, we muft in all probability hav^ been on (hore, or if we had varied our courfe either to the right or left, we lliould have run the rifk of being upon the rocks. . , - The land, which proved to be an ifland, had a very rocky appearance in almofl: every part, except the bay off which we had anchored, which was covered with verdure. There was but little fnow except upon the tops of the higheft hills, the other parts being free from it. About nine captain Gierke fent his joUy-boat to T 4 cut ^i! ■Vi, 1 h ff ( 280 ) V put grafs for the goats, as they were much in want of frefh food ; (he returned at four in the afternoon with a ^ood ftock. The men who went in her had feen the remains of an old hut, and fome pieces of drift wood, which had apparently been lately chopped, or cut with tools of the hatchet kind. They had alfo feeA feveral eagles, and two or three fmaller bird^, one of the nefts of which they had found, with fix eggs in it, and had brought it on board. The weather throughout the day wap very foggy, with a wet haze. Captain Cook called this bay Providence Bay, and the eaftern extreme of it Cape Providence. I' ^ ' m ;% ,Y ,'. J> .•■■}•. '5. •' f .■ 1 i. - - 'J -/I; >,-' ''' i': '^ . ' ■-.-,, ,'\-.^;^ I ^;^; i :La . ••.. , .. ■'' CHAP, { 28l ) .. . ■• . • . . . / '.i\ -'■'■■■' rf ■ •■ CHAP XVIL .vivvi / TranfaSfms and occurrences at the ijland of „. Vnalafchka— we depart from thence, and . continue to trace the coqft, ■,^.', ' . , . AT half pafl fix the nqxt morning (June 27), we weighed and made fail, and at eight were ftanding between the north point of the bay and a fmall illand to the northward of it, which together formed a channel about two miles wide : our fouiidings were from twenty-five to thirty fathom. At nine, having but little wind, and the tide carrying us in (hore, we dropped our anchors again, in thirty- dght fathom, fand and fhells. Soon after, boats were fent from both (hips to gut grafs, which returned at twelve. The productions of this part of the ifland were much the fame as the laft ; amongft other things, two fpecies of willow were found, but they were only twelve or four- teen iiKhes high : the foil was of a light, ■ Mm 111 tl^ ^' m iilii,, M ',l'i!l., m m Mi ( 282 ) loamy nature, except in the marines, where it was black and rich. Our people faw a hut on fhore, which, from its ftruc- tures, was evidently a temporary one ;. it was compofed of pieces of drift-wood, the ends of which were tied or faftened to- gether, and afforded but indifferent (Inci- ter j it flunk abominably, and, from the fiOi bones and (ea eggs, which were quite frefh, it was apparent thAt people had been there very lately, y . » r. / -> At one in the afternoon, we weighed and made fail, fliaping our courfe for ^ paffage, which, when at anchor, bore N.W. by W. J W. As we were (landing acrofs a very deep bay, we obferved a number of people in canoes, very bpfily employed in towing a whale on lliore, which they probably had jufl killed. When they fa\y ps, f ime of them immediately made for the fhips, and appeared glad to fefif'us. They were much like thofe of Sandwich Sound, but had a kind of bonnet upon their heads, very different from thofe people ; ( 283 ) people : their canoes were nearly the fame, ?ind they all uied double paddles ; their under-lips had a round perforation, but we faw no ornaments in them ; one of them had fome blue beads on his bonnet. "We purchafed fome of their darts, which were about four feet long, not feathered lat the end, and pointed viith a long piece of bone, vvhich was barbed ; fome were pointed with ftone, and one or two had four prongs. In return for thefe we gave them beads, which they appeared fond of, ?ind after flaying fome time with us, de- parted. At fix our foundings were twehty- feven fathoms, fhelly bottom, and at eight we anchored in thirty-eight fathom, fand and fhells : the extremes of the paflagc we were ftanding for, bore N. 45 deg. W, ?ind N. 62 deg. W. our diftance from the neareft Ihore being about three miles. The next morning we had light winds, and the weather was inclinable to be thick jind foggy. At three, we weighed and •' "^ • ' "■'' ' z ' made w »m m m ( *84 ) made fail. At five, having got to the mouth of the paflage, the ebb-tide from the weft ward was fo flrong as to fet us back fafter than we got there. At fix we intended to anchor, but the bottom proved rocky, and foon after the fhips were fet in a ftrong race, occafioned by the meeting of the tides round the different points of the furrounaing ifles. At nine we anchored, the paflage bearing N. 79 deg. W. At noon, the Refolution weighed, inade fail, and got out her boats to tow her into a fine harbour, which flie lay at fome little diftance from. The Difcovery was then three or four miles diftant9 but foon after (he alfo weighed, and, having the advantage of a little breezy, with the aififtance of her boats, got into the harr bour, and both fhips anchored about fix. We had many of the natives with us during the day, who were not fo much furprifed at feeing a fhip as might have been expe^ed. It is plain they took us for Ruffians, from their frequent repetition of ( 285 ) of the word Roojky : they alfo perfevStljf undcrftood the ufe of tobacco, which they aiked for by that name ; and when it was given them, immediately put it in their mouths ; fome likewife made figns of taking fnuff.— From all thefe circum- llances, we concluded that they mull have frequent intercourfe with the Ruffians. Early the next morning, all hands were called, the empty cafks got out of the hold, the boats hoifted out, and a large party of men fent on fhore to water j another party was difpatched to cut grafs, while thofe remaining on board were preparing for the reception of the water. We pur- chafed to-day feveral darts, and other ar- ticles of curiofity, of the natives, who were a very well behaved people : we gave them fnuflp, tobacco, beads, and nails in return. We faw neither bows nor arrows amongd them, and we obferved that fome had two, others three holes in their under- lip, and not a continued one as at Sand- wich Sound, Thefe people generally brought ( ag6 ) brought with them a vegetable, fomc'^^ thing refembling celery, which they eat a good deal of: this fcems to be nearly the fame plant as the morkovai of the Kamptfchadales, who are likewife fond of it. ^ , At feven in the evening, having com- pleted our water, and got a good ftock of grafs, we made ready for fea. The next morning (June 30th), th^ Refolution got up her anchor and made . fail, but wind and tide beinj^; both againft her, (he was obliged to come to again. Soon after, captain Cook fent two of hil boats on board the EHfcovery, to affift hef in carrying out hawfers, for the purpofe of warping out, and informed captain Gierke that he intended to do the fame. All hands were now enj ployed ; but the weather fhortly after became thick, and the fhips making but little progrefs, we anchored again at noon, and captain Cook fignified his intention of continuing here till to-morrow. . In ( 28; ) In the afternoon, all the people that could be fpared, were permitted to go on Ihore and gather herbs, or amufe them- felves in any other manner they thought proper ; and fome of the gentlemen hav- ing been informed that there was a fmall Indian village near the entrance of the harbour on the eaftern fliore, took this opportunity of walking there. The hills over which they were obliged to pafs, were high, but not very difficult to climb, on account of the length of grafs, which prevented their feet from flipping ; there were many fmall ponds of. water upon the top, occafioned probably by tl/e melt- ing of the fnow, very little of which was now to feen. Upon their arrival at the village, they were very civilly received by the inhabi- tants, who pulled off their bonnets, and made very low bows : there were not more than eighteen or twenty, including women and children. The town confid- ed of eight or ten.houfes, one of which .-;?«, ■■'•. -^ • was R^as large, the others much fmaller -, thrf largeft was about thirty feet in length, and eighteen feet wide, raifed nearly fix feet above the furface, and hollowed the fame depth below it : there were two o* pcnings on the top, one, which was in the middle, for the admiffion of light, the other as an entrance to the houfe, which was effedled by means of a long poft, with notches cut in it for the reception of the feet in defcending : the bottom was lined with dry grafs, and the roof fupported by ftakes fet upright, acrofs which were placed ball{s, and over the wbjle was thrown dry grafs and earth, which gave it the appearance at a diftance of a large hillock : it was divided into partitions, ia each of which the feveral families fleep : the fmell which iffued from it was very ftrong and difagreeable. At fome diftance from the houfes, were erected ftages for the purpofe of drying fifli, upon which were hung large pieces of halibut and whale's flelh, and in feveral places were great \ ( 2^9 ) |;reat numbers of the fliells of fca eggs^ which appear to make no fmall part Df their food. There were only two women, one very old and grey-headed j the other, who appeared to be about twenty,had a child in • her arms ; {he was dreffed in a feal-fkin jacket, and her cheeks were marked or tatowed in a particular manner ; (he had an ornament in her under-lip made of bone, and was, to all atppear^xice, tolerably neat and dean. The men were clothecj in bird-lkia jackets, the feathered Hie in- wards, and none were feen with the bladr der jacket on, which feems to be ufed only v^hen they are going upon the water* After having looked about is much as they thougJit neceflary, the gentlemen returned, the natives bowing very refpe6t- fully at their departure, which was a piece of good manners they could not help re- turning". The weather the next morning (July t{{)y was fine and pleafant, and the fhip^ Vol. J. U again .11 i: m ( 2^0 ) again endeavoured to get out, but found it impradlicable, on account of the wind and tide. The men from both ihlps were permitted to go on fhore as yefter- day, and feveral (hooting parties went out : fome of them brought on board a brace of fine groufe, aud three or four birds of the fnipe kind j and one of the gentlemen caught a young fox, which he brought off with him, and kept feve- ral days on board, but, by fome means or other, he broke his chain, and moft like- ly went overboard, for we faw nothing of him afterwards. •' ' ^ * At fix the next morning, taking the ad- vantage of a fine breeze from the S. E. we weighed and made fail, fi:anding through the opening mentioned on the 27th in- ftant, our courfe being N. W. by N. At noon our latitude was 54 deg. 19 min. N. At four in the afternoon, our courfe was N. the wind being E. N. E. and at ten, vre fleered N. E. the v/iad being S. E. by E. " ^ The ( 291 ) i:- The next day (July 3d), was cloudy, iv^ith a fiefh gale from the fouth-eaftward* At half pad: fix in the morning, we faw land bearing, E. S. E. our courfe being N. E. by E* At noon, it became more moderate, when the land bore from S. -[- E. to N. E. by E. our diftance off fhore about five leagues, our latitude being 55deg. 30 min N. At fix in the evening, we faw high land, appearing like an ifland bearing E. 2 N. our foundings then were forty- eight fathom, with a fine fandy bottom, and we had light airs and calms,, and faw feveral whales. ' - • - July the 4th, was thick and cloudy, in- dsDable to fogs, with light airs and calms, vxri a fwell from the W. Si W. At eight, t'hz e^vfremes of the land bore S. { E. and E. N. E. the nearefl part being about fe- ven leagues diftant. At half- pafl nine, the weather being very thick and foggy, we hauled off fhore, our courfe being N.N.E. and <>ur foundings thirty fathom. At ele- ven, it became calm, and both Ihipsbrought- U2 to, Jf « lii I v^ lii ( 292 ) to, main-top-fail to the mart, and our hooks and lines were put overboard : in the fpace of half an hour, we caught feve- ral fine cod. At noon, we had a breeze from the eaftward, when we made fail> and ftood t^ the northward." We faw fe- veral albatru \nd fome divers about, and a few puffins. In the afternoon we had hazy weather, with a light drizzling rain. The next day was heavy, cloudy, and difagreeable, with a breeze from the E. S. E. our courfe N. E. At five, we faw the land, bearing E. N. E. At feven, we had ground at thirty-eight fathom, and at noon our latitude was 56 deg. 30 min. N. when the north part of the land in fight bore N. 70 deg. E. and the neareft part E. S. E. four leagues diftant. In the af- ternoon, we caught more cod, atid at four the extremes of the land bore S. E. and * E. N. E. off fhore about fix leagues, our foundings being thirty- fix fathom, with a bottoitt tj ( 293 ) bottom of fine black fand. At eight, it became thick and fog^y. '■»)*. The next morning (July 6th), we had light breezs from the N. E. with open, cloudy weather, our courfe being N. N. W. At four, the extremes of the land bore E. and E. S. E. At nine, Captain Cook fent an order to Captain Gierke to put the (hip's company to two thirds al- lowance of beef, pork, bread, and flour, as we were now in a Ltitude where fi(h were very plentiful, arid he thought it prudent, to referve as much of the fliip's provifions as he could with propriety, left it might be wanted in future upon more prefling occafions : in confequence of this order, hooks and lines were diftributed to the ihips companies. At noon, our lati- tude was 56 deg. 54 min. N. and longi- tude 199 deg. 12 min. E. when the land bore from E, to E. N. E. nine leagues diftant. As we ftood on, we palTed a feal fleeping upon the furface of the water. At eight, our foundings were thirty-one U 3 fathom, ! :' 1 i '^J 1 ■i'i 1 i :l !• (' 'U'^j ii ( 294 ) fathom, the bottom black fand, when the extremes of the land bore S. 21 deg. E. ^nd N. 56 deg. E. ; a deep bay, which Captain Cook called Briilol Bay,S. 60 deg. fl. our diftance from the neareft part being about fix leagues. At half pafl eight, tacked fhip, and flood to the N. N. "\V. >vith the wind at N. E, - ' - The 7th y(SLS calm the beft part of the day with fine and pleafant \yeather. At eight the land bore from N. E. by E. to S. E. by E. and and foon after both fhip? I^rought to, and all hands employed them- felves in fiftiing, when they met with al| the fuccefs they could pofTjbly wifh for. About noon, a breeze fprurjg up frorri the N. E ; fo ma ^e fail and flood E. S. E. In the afternoon, we faw a flock of ducks, feyeral fmall birds of the fnipe kind, and a few brown fheerwaters and gulls. At half-paft eleven at night, we fliortened fail and tacked, our courfe being S. the wind • E. S. E. ; and at twelve, having fcventeen fathoms, we brought to, main-topfail to <"^ - ' , ■ I ^ ~ the f A ( 295 ) I the maft, about four leagues dlftant from the fliore. ,.1;.^ j*'..> i .^., ^if '«'' At one the next morning (July 8th), ■ wore fhip and made fail, ftanding to the northward, the wind at S. E. though very light. At four, it became calm, and hav- ing a good depth of water for fifhing, we put our hooks and lines over, and caught plenty of fine cod. At half paft ten, a light breeze fprung up from the N. E. our courfe N. N. W. At noon, the extremes of tne land bore N. 59 deg. E. and S. S. E. diftant from the neareft part about five leagues, our latitude being ^"j deg. 17 min. N. At four, the land bore from S. E. to S.S.E. and at eight our found- ings were twenty-fix fathom, a black fandy bottom. At ten, both veflels tacked. *^k^ '"''• *•:> \l! ■ The next morning at two, we had light breezes, and at fix faw a low point of land bearing N. E. our courfe being N. E. by N. with the wind at W. N. W. At eight, the Refolution being nearly a league ' ^'.\ ^^4 a-head \\i k ' ( «96 ) a-head of the Difcovery, fired a gun, as a fignal to make more fail, the wind now frefhening up. At ten, we altered our courfe to N. by B'. The land now trend- ed away to the eaftwar^, and had in many- places a remarkable appearance, refcm^ bling large broken columris or pillars ; the high land was very fnowy. At noon, •cuf latitude was S7 deg. 47 min. N. and ^t one, we faw more land bearing N. by E. At two, we had thirteen fathom, with a rocky bottom. At fix, oui founds ings were from thirteen to ten fathom, and at nine tacked and flood to the S. W. ^hewind W. N, W. ^^ -^ rf* At two the next mornipg (July icth), we faw a point of the low land mentioned yefterday morning, extending as far as W. N. W. which efFedually put a flop to our farther progrefs to the northward on this part of the coaft : at three, thereforci Captain Cook hailed the Difcoyery, and ordered her to go a-head, keeping a S. W, courfe, and to be particular in hei" foun(}- *;'4' iPgJ / ( 297 ) Ings. The weather was clear and plea (ant, with an eafterly breeze. At a quarter paft eleven, (lie fhoaled her water from fifteen to fiye fathom, and obfervlng patches of white or fhoal water in many places a- round us, fired a gun, as a fignal to the Refolution, and wore round, her courfe being N. E. The foundings now gradu- ally increafed to twelve fathom ; and the fhips being pretty near each other, Cap- tain Cook ordered the Difcovery to keep ftill a-head, but to go upon the other tack after dinner, and to hoift out her boats and fend them a-head to found. At noon our latitude was 58 deg. J5 min. N.;and at one, it being calm, and a tide felting us confiderably to leeward, the Refolution hoilled the fignal for anchoring, and foon after both (hips came-to ; we found the tide fetting to the fouthward. At four, we weighed and made fail, our courfe foutherly, and foundings from twelve to five fathom. At half pafl: feven, w^e let jgo our anchors again, and it became very hazy^ 'i tj i 1 1 f|i P ir 'I • ( =98 ) hazy ; no part of the land could be fecii except a high round hummock on the N. W. fhore, which bore N. 77 deg. W. and a mountain on the S. E. lliore, bearing S. 38 deg. E. At half paft one the next morning(July nth), we weighed and made fail, our courfe W. by N. the wind S. VV. by S. At four, we tacked and flood to the S. E. by S. our foundings being thirteen fathom. At fix, it became thick and foggy, and at eight, finding it impoflible to proceed any farther in fuch thick weather, without running great rifks, both veflels anchored, At one in the afternoon, the fog cleared up a little, when we weighed and flood S. S. E. and at half-pafl two, tacked and flood W. N. W. and W. by N. our founds ings being from fifteen to twenty- two fathom. We faw feveral arcflic gulls, and Jiad a fwell from the S. W. At half paft fix, we had fome thunder and lightning, but both very inconfiderable, and at fbven, faw high land bearing N. W. , W. At mne, III ( 299 ) r;jne, the winJ frefaencd, aiid blew rather hard at times, till ten, when we were taken aback, and at eleven it became more m.oderate. r;,J7 .?.• Our courfe the next day waft N. W. the wind S. W. but (o light as to carry us fcarce a mile au hour ; the weather clear and pleafant. At fix, we faw land bear- ing N. W. I W. and at noon the round hummock (which we now found to be an ifland, and which Captain Cook denorni^ nated Round Ifland\ bore N. W. dirtant four leagues. At four Round Ifland bore N. 45 deg. W. diUant four leagues, and the weftcrmofl land in fight N. 89 deg. W. At nine, being well in with the land, we tacked and ftood to the northward and at ten tacked again, our courfe S. W. the wind W. by N. and W. N. W. ^> At two the next morning (July 13th), our foundings were from eighteen to thir- teen fathom ; and at three, our courfe ftill being nearly S. W. we fhoaled from thir- ' |een to feven fathom. At this time Round •''MS Ifland '',( !■ V ■ u. ■ ^'-^ "WAW^nMiwas!; ( 300 ) Xfland bore N. 12 deg. W. four miles dU ftant. We diredlly hauled off the land, keeping an E. S. E. courfe, with our boats a-head founding, the Difcovery, as draw- ing leaft water, being ordered to take the lead. At ten, we refumed our former courfe, our foundings varying from eight to twelve, and foon after to nine fathom, the bottom fandy. At noon our obferv- ed latitude was 58 deg. 15 min. N. when Round Ifland bore N. 25 deg. E. difiant about ten leagues. The land here was very broken, having the appearance of iflands, with here and there a patch of fnow, but not a tree to be feen. At three in the afternoon, we had light airs, and at twelve it became calm, with hazy weather, the weftermoft land in fight bearing W, N. W. 4- W. ,. ,:^:,-: .. ■': .., ,::i" .... In the morning, we had light airs and calms, with fine pleafant weather. At fix, our foundings were twenty-fix fathom, and at eight Round Ifland bore N. 26 deg. E. Many of the fcajnen put . over ( 301 ) over their hooks and lines, and caught a fine fupply of cod, pollacks, fmall hali- but, and a fpecies of Hat fifli refembling a dab. About two in the afternoon, we faw two morfes, or fea-horfes, afleep in the water, and a boat fronx the Difcovery with three or four people were fent to at- tack them; but before they came near enough to do any execution, the animals difappeared ; thefe were the firfl we had feen. At half paft four the next morning (July 15th) it became exceeding thick and foggy, on which account we anchor- ed. At feven, it cleared up in fome de- gree, and we weighed our anchors, keep- ing nearly a weft courfe. At noon our latitude was 58 deg. 21 min. N. when we faw the weftern extreme bearing N. 61 deg. W. diftant eight leagues. In the afternoon, we faw a fea-bear : thefe ani- mals are faid to be found no farther to the northward than latitude 56 deg. but this is a proof to the contrary. At eight, the ., fog ( -'I ■f'l' mmfmmm. ^ ( 3®2 ) fog- again increafed, and at ten v(re let go' , our anchors in feventeen fathom, a fandy bottom. The fhips rode with their heads' W. hy N. during the whole tide. . . .. . The fog ckaring away about five! (July i6th)y we faw the land, the neareft part bearing N. 18 deg. W. about five miles diftant, which was much clofer thart we expeded. We weighed foon after^ our founding being from fixteen to twen^ ty one fathom. At nine captain Cook fent his large cutter on fhore. with direc- - tioiis to the gentlemen w^ho were in hei* to make what obfervations they could- At half paft eleven, the tide began to make from the w^eftward, on which ac- . count we anchored. We had feveral fea- bears about the fhips, one of which we Ihot at, but were not fortunate enough to kill him. Our latitude to-day was 58 deg. 36 min. N. At half paft five, the tide from the eaftward began to make, and at fix we weighed, having very light airs. The boat returned at eight in th. ( 309 ) . ... lip, and beyond that another in the cheeic,' in both which they had ornaments. Their faces were not painted, but were very dirty, and the ihape of it varied greatly ; being long and thin in fome, and round in others ; upon the whole, they were a fet of ill- looking people. Their canoes were covered with fkin, like thofe mentioned before, but they were wider, and the hole in which the perfon fits was larger. They in general ufe fingle paddles, but had double ones fecured upon the outfide of their canoes ; none had the bladder- drefs. They did not appear to be much accuftomed to fhips, nor were they very honeft, for they frequently made off with nails and other things that were handed down to them, as the price of their va- rious articles of trade, without returning an equivalent. We purchafed fome of their bov/s and arrows, the points of which were compofed of fea-horfe teeth, and barbed, and feveral other things in the curiofity-way, alfo a few dried X 3 falmon. 51 ( 310 ) falmon. After about half an hour's ftay they departed, 6 ) very light, and the fmall rain continuing, rendered every thing about us very un- comfortable. Our latitude to day at noon, by an imperfect obfervation, was 60 deg. 22 min. N. when Point Upr'ght bore N. 45 deg. W. At two in the afternoon, the fog which hung abont the land began to difperfe, and the clouds to fcparate, but at three it again became very thick. At four, Point Upright bore N. 44. deg. W. and a fmall high ifland laying oifthe weftern extreme S. 73 de^. W. our diflance off fiiore being two leagues. At half pafl fix we tacked, and flood to the S. E. and at twelve it became calm. ' ' The weather the next day (July 30th) was in general foggy, with fhort intervals of clearpefs, and the winds light and va- riable. At five in the morning, we faw the weflern extreme of the ifland bearing W. ; S, We had many guillemots, puf- fins, and gulls about to day. At four in the afternoon we wore (hip and flood W. N. W. 11 1 l" { 3^7 ) N. W. the wind being N. by E. and N. E. by E. and at twelve we had moderate breezes from the S. S. E. and S. E. July 3 1 ft, we had open cloudy weather, and were free from fogs. At eight we had a fine breeze from the S. E. our courfe being nearly N. E. throughout the day. We had no land in fight, and our foundings were thirty-four fathoms, a foft muddy bottom. Our latitude at noon w^as 6 1 deg, 1 6 min. N. and at fix in the af- ternoon, we pafTed a piece of drift wood. '■' The next day (Auguil ift), we had open cloudy weather. At four we paifed the body of a large tree, and at fix a good deal of drift-wood, moft of which ap- peared to have been long in the water. At eight the wind (hifted to E.N. E. and at nine to N. N. W. our courfe N. E. and foundings from twenty-four to twenty-one fathoms. We had many ardtic gulls about. At half paft eleven we had a ftiff breeze from the N. by E. our courfe N. W. by W. and our latitude was ii 13m C 3i8 ) was 6i deg. 58 min. N. In the afternoon we pafled more drift-wood, and a (hag, apparently quite exhaufted with fatigue, pitched upon one of the Difcorery's an* chors. At eight we tacked fhip, our courfe being E. 4 N. the wind N. by E. The weather on the fccond was thick, heavy, and rainy, with a warm difagreeable atmofphere, and a frefh. breeze from the E. N. E. our courfe S. E. We paflfed much drift-wood, and at eight we had little wind and rain, with a heavy irre- gular fea from the northward. Many gulls and large Bocks of iheer-waters about. At two in the afternoon it became calm, and our foundings were nineteen fathoms, with a fine fandy bottom. - The following day we had open cloudy weather, with intervals of funfliine, and a flight breeze from the W. by N. our courfe N. by W. Our foundings were eighteen fathom, and at noon our latitude by fome double altitudes was 62 deg. 33 min. N. In the afternoon we fleered N.N.E. ( 3^9 ) N. N. E. the wind being E. S. E. arid S- E. by E. At four, we had fourteen fa- thom, and at fix they deepened to twenty- Soon after, we faw land bearing W. 4 N. diftant about eight leagues. At eight, we had thirteen fathom, and the land bore S. 84 deg. W. On the fourth, we had a ftrong breeze from theE. by N. our courfe being N. N. E. At half paft three in the morning, captain Cook hailed the Difcovery, and or- dered her to keep a-head and found. At eight, we had thirteen fathom and a half, the bottom brown fand and fhells. At two in the afternoon, we faw land extending from N. to W. N. W. about fix leagues diftant. At three, we had ten fathom, and foon after hauled clofe to the wind, having fince one been about a point and half from the wind. As we proceeded, our foundings became irregular, from ten to feven fathom, and then deepening to thirteen. At four, the Difcovery, feeing a kind of ripling a-head, which had rather m ( 320 ) rather a fufpiclous appearance, tacked, and tlie Relblutlon foon after followed her example. At half paft four, the Dif- Govery came under the Refolution's ftern, as by fignal, and at feven both veflels let go their anchors, as it became very thick. When it cleared up, we faw a high bluff ifle, bearing W. by S. diftant about three league SXL« >.i ..• ■. » > .»»« , > <.ri\ . f!) .'-T The next day (Auguft 5th) was fog- gy, with fmall drizling rain. At four, we prepared for getting up our anchors, but as it foon after became very thick, V7e defifted. At nine, we weighed, and about ten, a boat was fent on board the Difcovery, with an account of the death of Mr. Anderfon, the furgeon, who had been in a declining ftate for near a twelvemonth paft : he was fucceeded by Mr. Law, the furgeon of the Difcovery. At noon, the extremes of the land, which proved to be the main, bore N. E. by E. and N. W. .;. W. At half paft one we anchored in eight fathom, about two miles ''A t •• \ 3" ) ; ' r r ' .*■.■ , - - t J -.-*.- f -i miles diftant from the ifland, the extre- mities of which bore S. and S. 36 deg. £. the land on the main to the weft- Wrd was high, and bore N. 48 deg. W« and the eaftefmoft land in fight N. 58 deg. E. We found the tide fetting ftrong from the E. by S. Soon after we were anchored, captain Cook fent boats from both Ihips to cut grafs for the Aock, of which there appeared to be plenty, and ^?vhlch was a repafi they flood much in need of : himfelf likewife, with fome of his officers, went on fhore to make what obfervations they could. ' ^ "" ' '" ' The ifland was very fmall, but covered inalmofl: every part with variety of herb- age, amongft which were many plants common in England, and two or three fpecies of willows, but very diminutive, not being above eighteen inches in height. Berries (fuch as cran-berries and whortle-berries) x^ere remarkably plentiful, but their time was too (hort to permit them to colled many. They a- VoL. I. Y fcended ( 322 ) fccpded the hill, but the weather was very unfavourable for a great extent of vifion : they faw much land in different direiftions, and upon the beach found a fledge, which induced captain Cook to call it Sledffe Ifland. , ^ At three the next morning, we weigh- ed and made fail, keeping a W. and W. S. W. courfe, with a light breeze from the fouthward. At feven, we faw rnore land bearing N. W. and at eight, Sledge Ifland bore S. 72 deg. E. two leagues diftant. At noon, our obferved latitude was 64 deg. 40 min. N. and at one, we faw an ifland bearing N. 85 deg. W. fe- ven leagues diflant. At four, it was calm and foggy, when the extremes of the main bore E. and N. by E. At fix, we had from ten to feven fathom, and at feven tacked and ftood S. S. E. the wind being S. W. when we faw more land to the weftward bearing N, W. ^ W. At eight, we anchored for the night, when Sledge Ifland bore S. 64 deg, E. the other ifland .i.".; . ( 3^3 ) S. 70 deg. W. fix leagues diftant, attd the weftern plrt of the main N. 52 deg. W. our diftance off fhorc being about fivei miles. iHtv} i^f/t?-tH In the morning (Auguft 7 th), we had cloudy weather, with light foutherly breezes. At eight, we weighed and inade fail, our courfe W. S. W. and W. At one in the afternooti, we tacked, and at eight the wind blew frefli from the N* by E. arid N* E. our courfe being N. W* 4.N. and our foundings from twelve to fifteen fathom. The weftermoft land in fight then bore N. 55 deg. W. our di- ilance off fliore about three leagues. At twelve we had hard rain, our foundings being eleven and twelve fathoms. ' ;. - > The next morning was thick and hazy, with light winds and hard rain. At three, having fhoaled to nine fathom, we bore away, the wind S* by E. and S* our courfe N. E. and N* At four, we faw the land bearing N. W. by N. and fooa after hauled up to £. S. £. At five . ( _ Y 2 having 1) :.J'1 ( 324 ) '■'-'.■ having light windsy and drifting faft on fhore, we let go our anchors, when the extremes of the land bore N. 80 deg. W. and N. 48 deg. [- E. the weftern extreme making in a high peaked hill, our diftance from Ihoretwo miles. At eight we took the advantage of a breeze which fprung up, and weighed and made fail. At ten, our foundings being feven fathom, we tack- ed and bore away to the W. N. W. the wind being N. N. E. At noon, we had frefh breezes-, and the extremes of the main bore N. 65 deg. W. and E. ^ S. our foundings being from eight to thir- teen fathoms. At four, we had rain, tacked and ftood to the E. N. E. the wind N. and foon after faw a long neck of low land, running out from the north- ermoft high land, bearing N. 2 deg. E. and a high fteep rock S. 88 deg. W. We faw many objeds upon the low land refembling trees. At half paft five, tack- ed fliip and ftood W. N. W. and at fe- ven wore, our courfe E. by N. the fteep 4 rock { 325 ) TOck bearing S. W. At nine, we faw the point of low land a-head, about three miles diftant, and foon after flioaled our water to five fathom, when we tacked and ftood to the weft ward, and foon after anchored. -'• ■•'^' V^?' '^ W r/:>Jjj'*o - Auguft 9th. The next ftibrnin^ we had thick, cloudy, rainy weather, with fquallsand hard gales from the N. by W. At eight we weighed and made fail, and at nine wore (hip and ftood \V.[ N. At noon, bur latitude was 65 deg. 45 min. N. wh6n the high rock bore S. \V. by S, and the ifland to the weftward W. S. W. V W. At two in the afternoon, we bore away for the weftern ifland, our courfe S. W. by W. ; but, ujjon our nearer ap- proach we found there were twp inflead of one. At four the extremes bore N. and W. by N., Ae e^aftermoft about a mile diftant. They were entirely com- pofed of rugged pointed rocks from the bottom to the fummit, and here and there we faw a fmall patch of grafs-. Captain 'idmai ^ y 3 Cook 1' ■u ( 3*6 ) Cook named them the Ifles of Difappoint* ment, At fev^i; we faw more land bear- ing W. by S. and at eight the extremes of the land from S, W. 4- W. to N. W, find a bluff head forming the north point: of a bay W. S. W. five or fix leagues di- ftant. At ten, we wore fhip, our courfc tcing N. E. by N,:^ ^ v: ^:;>-um i./., .' The next day was fine and clear, with tnoderate breezes from the N. W. At two, we wore fhip and ke^ c a W. i- S« courfe. At four, we had frefh gales, and ^t five faw land bearing N. At eight the iand fet ?»t five, bore N. i6 deg. E, ^nd the fouth point of a bay S. 85 deg, W. off fhore two or three miles. The land formed a deep bay, and was mode-; rately high, in fome parts rocky, with a flope of low land, which feemed well co^ vered with verdure. Upon one part of it we faw feveral houfes, about which ^ere placed upright, what appeared to be the jaw-bones of whales. By the ailifi:- §nce of our glaffes;, we difcovored many > , •: inhabit ( 327 ) inhabitants, who feemed to be rdnnlhg about in great confufion, and fome mak- ing off to the mountains. The fouther- moft part confifted of a double ridge of high mountains, the tops of which were covered with fnow. At ten, wc anchored in thirteen fathom, with a gravelly bot- tom, the two points of the bay bearing N. 16 deg. E. and S. 31 deg. W. the village N. 3 1 deg. W. and the ifles of Difappointment N. E. I E. .. , Soon after we had anchored, the Refo- lution's pinnace, in which was captain, Cook, attended by the large cutters of both (hips, all well manned and armed, proceeded to that part of the fhore where the village was fituated. As they ap- proached they faw between fifty and fixty people ftanding upon an eminence near the houfes, as if prepared to defend themfelves againfl any attack that might be made. Having reached the fhore, three of them came down j but upon captain Cook's approach (who lantlcd by him- ...... Y4 fclf). ( 3«8 ) felf ), they retired ; he however foHowccl them, and, by every fign of friendfhip, - endeavoured to perfiBrae them to lay a- ^ fide their fears, and at the fame timo fhewcd them beads and various other ar- ticles. Thefe feemed to engage their at- ' tention, and at laft one of them came near * enough to the captain to receive a bunch of beads, which he carried to hh two compar ' nions, and after fome conference they col- \ leded courage, and readily joined him. The others, fteing the reception their comrades had met with, came down to , meet them. Several of the officers who were in the boats now followed the cap- tain ; but the natives made figns that too, many fhould not come at once, and appear- ., ed very circumfpedl and upon their guard, i . for, as the others approached, they retired, till having arrived at their houfes, they . fixed a line, made of the (kin of the fea- horfe acrofs, and gave the gentlemen to underftand they were not to go beyond it. Having fettled matters thus far, they •^ ' brought " I :. ( 3^9 ) brought out various articles of trade, fucH as fca-horfe hides and teeth, feal fkins, rppea jnade of hides, gloves, ano half- boots* both curioufly ornamented with embroidery. Many different things were pufchafed, and, having come to a good underftaii^inS* }^^ ^^P9 ^^^ removed, and the captain, officers, &c. were per- mitted to take a nearer view of their houfes, Thpfe which were fuppofed to be their fummer habitations, were nearly of a cylindrical form, covered with the llvins of the morfe, or fea-horfe, and propped up or fupported by the bones of whales, as were likewife the roofs of their winter huts. The latter were a- bout five or fix feet below the furface of the earth, the bottonis covered with boards, and the tops, after being fecured \yith the bones of whales, as mentioned before, were covered with dried grafs and earth, much like thofe of the natives of Unalafchka, but the entrance was at the ^nt, and not on the top. In thefe 4» \\ »1H it|. u v ^ *»' ■ were ( 330 ) were obfcrvcd many fledges, and various utenfils in the fifliing way, . ^rr*- *^ The men (for they faw neither women rior children) were ftout and well made, and in general below the middle fize, though three or four were near fix feet high ; their colour jiearly bordering upon' the copper, their faces broatd, high cheek- bone^, fmall eyes, flat nofes, and thick lips : their teeth were bad,' ahd appeared as if worn down to the flumps ; they had no holes for the reception of ornaments either in the under-lip or cheek, but they had blue beads, and many others of dif- ferent kinds, in their ears; their hair v^as very fhort, and fome were fliaved clofe; in p:eneral, they had but little beard, llieir drefs confifted of jackets with fleeves, fome made of dog- fk ins with the hair on, others with the ikin ' tanned and drefled, and faftened round the middle with a belt ; their breeches, (lockings, and (lioes, were all of a piece, ' and made of the fame materials as the- iacketsi ^^ ( 33' ) jackets ; their fhoes were ornamented with embroidery, which does credit to their women, and fhews great ingenuity ^nd tafte. They were all armed with bows, quivers of arrows at their backs, 3nd fpears headed wirh iron exceeding fharp and bright, ana inlaid with white and yellow metal : their bows were by far the bell: we had feen, but they would not fell one, nor would they truft them out of their hands ; their arrows were much like thofe of America, but tjre iharp end was compofed of fea-hcrrfe tooth, and not barbed. They very rea- dily fhewed the goodnefs of their arms by Ihooting feveral arrows, which went to a great diftance, and with amazing velo- city. The perfon who appeared to be their chief, was quite an old man; he had a mark or line acrofs his nofe, and extending beyond his check-bones, at the termination of which were the forms of two fifti : this had the exad appearance pf tatowing, and in all probability was done m ' ' i ! ■ i,.. k .' i \ . CHAP. ( 32S ) 1 ■ t*.c 9 *'n'i'*5jfi(<*Lrt :A:^ 'V > '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIH *. .'EET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m \ :\ \ ^' ** 9) i^>;"^^^ A ^ MP 5? ..W > \ \ (342 ing onlg twelve fathom, we again tacked and flood to the N. W. the wind being W. by S. aiid W. S. W. We were now in rather a difagreeable fituatio being unable to proceed to the eaftward on ac- . count of the (hoalnefs of water, and the vf'md not permitting us to weather the ice on the other tack ; we befides found a ftrong current fetting to the eaftward. At eleven we faw the ice again, diftant about three miles, and at twelve were clofe in with it : it appeared higher than that of yefterday, and made in various odd forms, and was that kind of ice called packed ice. We foon after tacked, the thermometer ftanding at 32. 4^ deg. and our obferved latitude was 70 deg. 43 min. N. We faw four or five ardtic gulls and two whales. At half paft five in the afternoon, we defcried a low patch of barren land, almoft inclofed with ice, ex- tending from E. to S. E, by S. our di- ftance from the neareft part being about three miles, and our foundings thirteen c^- f ' fathom. V :n ' . , ( 343 ) fathom. Captain • Cook, called this Icy Cape. Our longitude to-day, at eight in the morning, was 198 deg, 34 min. E. At fix, the Difcovery, being to the eaft- ward oF her confort, flioaled her water almoft fuddenly to fix fathom and a quar- ter, when fhe diredly fired a gun and tacked, as did the Reiolution, whofe depth of water was nine fathom. At fe- ■ven our foundings varied from feven to thirteen fathoms, , but very irregularly; and at eight they were from eight to ten fathoms. We found that the current had carried us feveral miles further to the eafl- ward than we were yefterday. At half pafl eleven, we again tacked, flanding ta the S. W. with the wind N. W. : ^^^^ "•iThe next day (Augufl 19th), the weather was very variable ; fometimes the fky was totally obfcured by fhowers of fleet and fnow, and at other times fcarce a cloud was to be feen. At eight in the morning, we tacked and Hood to the N. YT. with the wind W. S. W. our found- Z 4 ing^ !Mi •oMb^SMNlVM \ ■ ( 344 ) ingf being thirteen fathom^ At eleven, pafled many pieces of lopfe ice> and a| twelve faw more ice a-head, our obferved latitude being 70 deg. 8 win. N* At twoj,. "vs^e tacked and ftpod to iur foutli-f vid^xdt and foon after, obferving many herds of morfes fleeping upon th? ice> captain Cook ordered our boat«. to attack andkill fome. In tbe courfe of th^ af- tjgrnoon, the Refolntion's people killed iiine, and the Difcpvery^s four. As foon as they were brought on board, the fea- men began to cut them up, and, a frefh meal being in our preient fituation a very djefirabl^ objed, feveral (leaks \v^re taken off and broiled, which were declared to be very tolerable eating by fom^, and much difliked by others: the flavour of the meat was fifliy, and ftrongly impregnat- ed with train-oil, and, in its appearance) very coarfe and black. Having fecured our boats, we purfued our courfe, and at eight our foundings were fourteen fa- thorn. " ^^ ' - \ ■ ■ ■ - It; ( 345 ) /[It was thick and foggy almoft. the whole of the next day (Auguft 20th), At three in the morning:, thought we faw the appearance of land, the extremes of which hore N. £. and S. £. by S. diflant about four or five miles. We had light airs, and our foi^ndings.w,ere fourteen fa- thom. The fog continued till half pad ten the following day, when it became tolerably clear, and we faw land extending from £. N. E. to Sw EL by E. At noon, our ob- ferved latitude was 69 deg. 33 min* N« our longitude, at eight in the morning, being 195 deg. 56 mia. E. ; our found- ings were thirteen fathom* and we had but little wind. At four in the after- noon, the extremes bore E. byN. and Si, by W. our diftance off (bore being fix or feven leagues. At eight, we found a fmall fet of the water from the N. N. E. and at twelve we had light airs and fair weather, "^ iy':.^ ivr -j .ir>- -t ^ ■;; :•' • ;..;■■-'••'■■ '' At ''it — 4 *-W i'..m , Y 346 ) At four the next morning (Augufl: 22d) the extremes of the land in fight bore from S. 10 deg. W. to N. 73 deg. E. our diftance from the ihore about eight or nine leagues. It foon after became thick and foggy, and continued fo the remain- ing part of the day. At^cight our found- ings were fevcnteen fathom and a half, with a fandy bottom, our courfe being W. the wind S. S. W. At noon, we had nineteen fathom, the bottom a hard mud, and at eight in the evening they increafed to twenty- one fathom. In the courfe of the day, we obferved many flocks pf fmall birds flying to the fouthward, and faw a great number of ducks. At twelve, we heard a noife refembling thet of a furf breaking over rocks : we immediately wore ihip and flood off to the E. S. E. our depth of water being twenty two fa- thom. The winds throughout the day were very light and variable. In the morning we had light breezes and thick foggy weather, and at half pafl: f : / ^ne r ( 347' ) qne paft fome drift ice. At eight we had twenty-two fathom, and at noon our - courfe was W. S. W. the wind N. At * four in the afternoon the fog cleared • away, but the weather was cloudy, and we ^ had feveral fliowers of fnow ; the ther- ■' mometer varying from 42 ^. deg. to 33^ ' deg. At twelve our foundings increafed to twenty-five fathom.:^4isuuijv -iUQ ^i^^..; We had open cloudy weather the next day (Aug. 24th), with frefli breezes from the N. W. our courfe as yefterday. At eight our depth of water was twenty fathom, with a fandy bottom, and our longitude about 190 deg. 25 min. E. At " noon our latitude was 69 deg. 30 min. N. and in the afternoon we had feveral fhowcrs of fnow, and obferved a fwell from the W. N. W. At eight we had thirty fathoms. Vv„..:,».v . ., ■; .riy,> At three in the morning, we tacked and flood S. by W. the wind W. by S. and at five faw the appearance of land to the S. E. whicU we immediately flood il- d for. 1 J ( 348 )) for, bufr foori after difcovercd it to be on- ly a fx3g-bank, fo refumed our former courfe. At fix the wind fjiifted to the S; W. our courfe being W. H» W. and at eight we got t-wenty^nine fathoms, with a muddy bottom. In the afternoon we had frefli galea from the W. S. W. and at fix pafled fome dri^wood. At eight our foundings were twenty-eight fathoms* yii^hd'^oi: iAsi ■&w''^' The wind fhifted in the courfe of the night to.N. N^ W. our courfe being W, and, W. by S. At fix (Aug. 26th), we had fome land birds about the fliip, and at eight faw the ice from the maft-head extending from N. by E. toN; W«i W, our longitude being 184 deg, 2 min, E. At nooo-our latitudawas69 deg. 38 i^in, N. the ice then bearing from N. E. by N. to N. by W. diftant about four or five miles ; and our courfe being W. by S. with-the^nd at N. N. W. At fix, the wind coming round to the fouth-eaftward, we hauled off the ice, being not more than' ,bl half - 4 '«" \ ( 349 ) half a mile diftant from it. At ei^ we tacked flijp, and ftood to the N. E. the extremes of the ice bearing N. N. E. and S. ^ Wp our foundings being twenty-fix fathoms, . .. .v. At four in the morning (Aug. ii^Tth), We tacked and ftood to the S. W. having fre(h gales from the S. S. £. attended with rain. At one in the afternoon, faw the ice from W. S. W. to N. W. our found- ings being twenty-fix fathom, with a muddy bottom. At half paft five it came on thick and foggy, and foon after we had rain. We alfo faw feveral morfea or fea- horfes, and many fmall birds, which we fuppofed to be the tringa lobata of Linns- liftj,, At feven, being near the ice, our boats were got out to make another at- tack upon the fea-horfes, which though not very palatable, were ftill preferable ta fait provifions, and they befides afForded;; us a good ftock of blubber, which wc af- terwards found of fingular fervice to us, as our ftoc)^ of oil mujl other wife have been ( 35<5 ) been all exhaufted, without the poffibiilty of renewing it. They returned at nine, but vere obliged to leave the major part of what they had killed behind, as it came on foggy, and they were apprehenfive of lofing the (hips, as well as being en- clofed by the ice. At twelve we tacked and flood to the weftward, the v/ind be- ing N. N- W. and the weather thick and- foggy. ^-.Y The next morning at five, we tacked fliip, and purfuedaN.iW. coiirfe, having light breezes from the W. by N. and much loofe ice about. From eight till noon it was nearly calm, during which time mod of our boats were employed in killing fea-horfes, which were in this part numerous beyond imagination. We ob- ferved many of their young, which they are remarkably careful of, and will defend to the utmoft : upon the leaft appearance of danger they embrace them with their fore feet, and plunge into the water. Our people killed feveral of them, but the old *>>■,>.» ones ( 3J> ) ones would not quit the boats till they were deftroyed alfo ; and once they were very near ftaving the Difcovery's fmall cutter with their enormous teeth. At four the ice extended from N. to S. S. W. , our courfe being S. with the windE. S. E. At half pad five we tacked, and flood to to the N. E. not being able to clear the ice upon the other tack, the eaftern exti-mity of which bore S. by W. diftant about one mile, and extended a confiderable diilance to the S. W. At feven it blew pretty frefh, and at eight we got down top-gal- lant-yards, and reefed our top-fails ; our foundings were twenty-fix fathom. At twelve our courfe was E. N. E. the ice, which we were very near, bearing N. W. The thermometer to-day was as low as 31 deg. - . ' J • s» . v: . . f The next day (Aug. 29th), w-^ had dark cloudy weather, with moderate gales from the W. N. W. and N. W. our courfe being S. W. At four the ice bore from N.toW. by S. and at eight there fell -»,.M *,. ( 35^ ) fell feveral (howere of fmall rain, attendeci with frequent thick fogs. At nine, our longitude being nearly i86 dcg. i8 min. E. we faw land, being part of the con- tinent of Afia, bearing from S. S. W. to S.W . our foundings at this time Were twenty-three fathoms, with a iandy bot- tom. At noon, our latitude by account was 68 deg. 46 min. N. when the ex-i^ tremes of the land bore from S. $§ deg. E. five miles diftant, to N. S5deg. W. three leagues diftant, the neareft part bearing S. by \V. about two miles, our ibundings being eight fathom. We fooit after tacked, and flood to the N. N. E. the wind N. W. The land to the caft- ward was low and level, that behind it moderately high, with little or no fnow, but the whole as barren as can well be conceived : we did not obferve the leaft ice upon or near the fhore. At two we tacked and flood W. S. W. | W. At four we had (bowers of fmall rain, our found* ings were fifteen, and at five twelve fa- thom. I ( 3i3 ) thorns. At fix tacked again, and pfoJ ceeded in a N. E. by N. diredtion, thd extremes of the land bearing S. E. and W. S. W. our diflance ofF fliorc about three miles. At ten we brought-td, inain* top-fail to the mail, for the night. At two the next morning (Aug. 30th), we bore away and made fail, oor courfe E. the wind N. N. W. the weather' dark and gloomy, with continued (howers of fnow. At eight, oUr foundings wer6 twenty fathom, and at ten faw the land bearing S. S. W. I W. At elevdtt, th6 weather being clearer, we faw the ex- tremes of it, which bore S. E. by E. and W. by N. our foundings regularly de- creaiing as we approached it, from twen- ty to ten fathoms, the neareft part being about three miles diftant. It was of a very moderate elevation, and almoft entirely covered with fnow, which had fallen in the courfe of the day. We foon after al- tered our courfe to S. E. and at noon the land extended from W. i N. to E. S. E. Vol. I. A a our ( 354 ) cur foundings fourteen fathoms. At orie in ttie afternoon our courfe was N. E. by E. the wind N. by W. At four our depth of water was fifteen fathom, and at (ix it {hoaled to ten, on which account we hauled off. At eight, the extremes bore W. S. W. i W. and S. S. E. i E. the neareil part being about fi^ milf^ diilrant. At half pad eleven we hauled the wind, and flood off for the night, our courfe be^ ing N. E. the wind N. N, W. We bore away again to E, N, E, at two in the morning and at four the land bore S. E. by E. and S- W. by W. our di- fiance from the nearefl part being four leagues. At fix we bore away to E. by 3. and at eight we had twenty-two fa- |hon\ ; the eaftern extreme appeared like an iQand, but we afterwards found that it; was connefted with the main by low land, f^nd projedled conliderably from it. Thi^ part captain Cook called Eafl C^pe. At noon |t was hazy and cloudy over the l^nd } our latitude obferved wa$ 67 de^, .:'■'■■;■ *:■■.;■;■ ; ^ -.../.^ ( SSI ) 3S xnin. N. At four the eaftefmoll: land iw fight bore S, 9 leagues diilant, and the Eaft Cape N. 80 deg* W. three leagues. At half paft five faw more land bearing $. 77 deg. E. fo. hauled farther off, out foupding^ being twelve f?ithom. At twelve it became fqually with (bowers of fleet, our depth of water being thirteea fathom. In the courfe of the day we faw great numbers of brown (heerwaters^ and fome puffins and fea parrots. / The next day (Sept. ift.J we had open cloudy weather, with flight ihowers of fleet. At half pail two in the morning, we tacked and ftood N, E. by E. At fix we obferved large flocks of birds flying paft us, and at eight our foundings were fixteen fathom, with a black fandy bot- tom, the extremes of the land bearing S. E. by E. and S. W. our diftance from fhore being between three and four leagues, At four in the afternoon we were withiA feven miles of the land, which was mo- derately high and level, and without thoft '-' A a 2 irregular \v. ■1*- ( 3J6 ) irregular fummits fo frequent on the Ame^ rican coaft : we did not however fee the ' leaft appearance of trees. Early the next morning we bore away to E. by N. the wind N. W. by N. and at four we had freih breezes, with fre- quent fliowers of fnow. At fix we faw fome di(lant land to the eaftward, ap- pearing like an ifland, which bore 8. £ 4- | E, We had many whales about, and variety of fea-birds, fuch as (heerwaters, fulmars, ardtic aud other gulls, and numbers of the fcalloped-toad fandpipers (tringa hbcta, Lin.) Our obferved la- titude was 66 deg. 40 min. N. and our foundings twenty-one fathom. At three in the afternoon, we faw more land, bear- ing S. 72 deg. E. and at ten were (land- ing round the eaftermoft part of the con- tinent, near the fpot we anchored oflF on the loth of Auguft, our courfe E. S. E. Part of the fore and the whole of the af- ternoon were very pleafant : the land, as we proceeded farther to the fouthward. • • \ ,1 became ( 357 ) became in general more lofty and elevat- ed, but ftill very regular, with many low and long extended plains, which were well clothed with herbs and plants of va* rious kinds. Our weather the next day was clear and pleafant, with a fine breeze from the N. W. our courfe being S. S. W. At eight we were abreaft of the place we flopped at on Auguft the loth, the north point of the road bearing S. 64 deg. W. four miles diftant. The wind being fair, captain Cook purfued his courfe, and con- tinued to trace the land, which now made a confiderable bend to the fouth- weft- ward. By the help of our glafles, we faw two or three towns as we paifed a- loi)g, but none of the inhabitants would venture out to us. We had many birds about, and a hawk flew by the ftiips. Our latitude to-day was 65 deg. 3 1 min. N. At two in the afternoon, we obferv- cd a fmall drain of the tide from the N. %» At fou|:, the two points of the road bore # ( 358 ) bore N. lo de^, E. and N. 40 deg. W< and the fouthermofl land in fight S. tz deg. W. At twelve, we hauled the wind, our courfe E. by N. In the morning early (September 4th) we bore away again as ufual, our courfe being N. W. by W. At eight we had no ground at twenty-five fathom -, but at eleven flioaled from twelve to feven fa- thom, and foon after to five : we diredly hauled off, and our foundings became gradually deeper. At noon we faw a fpit of low land, running off from the fouthern extreme, which bore S. by W. As we approached this, our depth of wa- ter became lefs. Our latitude was 64 deg. 39 min. N. At three in the after- noon, we bore away for the American continent, our courfe S. S. E. the wind N. by W. and N. N. W. At four, the fouthermoft land in fight bore S. 46 deg. "W. and at fix S. 5 1 deg. W. At nine, we hauled the wind, our courfe beiog E» byN. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME*- fa-