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32 X
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4 5 6
T}
i/tV/,*" /^ I^-hr>x '^/l-^-^-<yt> ,..
THE
INNOCE_XTS ABROAD,
oil
THE NEW PILGRIMS' PROGRESS;
BEING SOME ACCOUNT OK THE 8TKAMER QUAKER CITY'S PLEASURE
EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND; WITH
DESCRTPTIONS OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS,
INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES,
AS THEY iPPEARED
TO THE
A TJ T H O PI .
AV I T H I L T^ TJ S T R
A. T I O X S .
BY
(.■<AMlKr. r.. CM-MKXS.)
TORONTO:
1870.
Psi3/;p
riUNTKn AT THE HAILY TKLKGIiAVil PrilMSIlI.'Ui IKirsi:, ISAY STIiEET,
fOllXKIl OF KING.
ROBERTSON & COOK, PROPRIETORS.
•;9
.;#
PREFACE.
ItEET,
This lM.„k is a roconl of a i.toasure-trip. W it were a record
<.f n solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that
gravity.fthat jaofundity, and that inii.re.ssiva incomi.rehensibility
MlMch are so proper to ^-orks of that kind, and withal so attrac-
tive. Vet, notwithstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has
'I purp.xs.., ^vhich is. to suggest to the reader how he would be
hkely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them with his
OM-n eyes instead of tbe eyes of those who travelled in those
countries before hin.. I juake small pretence of shoAving any one
how he ouijJd to look at objects of interest beyond tlie sea-other
I'ooks ,lo t: at, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it,
there is no need.
I otter no apologies for any departures from the usual style of
travel-writing that may be charged against me-for I think I
have seen with impartial eyes, an.l I am sure I liave written at
least honestly, Avhether wisely or not.
In this volume I have used portions of letters* which I wrote
for the I)u.d>; Alfa California, of San Francisco, the proprietors
of that journal having waived their rights and given me the
neces.sary permission. I have also inserted portions of several
Mters written for the New York Trlhunc and the New York
Herald.
San FiJANxisco, 1870.
THE AUTHOR.
Tc
Till
♦Sun
•Solit
CONTENTS.
■i
eUAl'TKU I.
ropular Talk of tlu, E.xeursiou-rrogrannne of tlu- T,i,,-I)ulv Tiokote.l U tlu-
P..\cnr.siou-Dcfeotioii of the Cclcl.iitic.s ."
CHAPTKR II.
Crancl Preparntions-Au Imposing Dignita.y-Tl.u European K.o.Iu.- Mr Hlu-
.•.er.sOp„„o„_Stateroom No. 10-Tho Assembling of ti.e Claus-At S.a
I'ACK
17
at last
"Averaging" tlit; Passe
ai(
52
CHAPTER III.
^^ng tne l'assengers-'<Far, n.r at Sca--Tribnlation an.ong ti.e ^^.tri-
hs-Se..k.ng Amusement under Dillieulties-Five Captains in the Shi,.... 25
CHAPTRR IV.
The !J;;g^q^eo,ni„g Domesth^ated-Pilgnn, LiA^.tSea-- Horso.Billia.Is"-
Club -1 he Mag,c Lantern-State Ball on Deek-Mock Tria!,s-Chara,le«-
lUgnmSolennnty-Slow JIusie-The Executive Offi... Delivers an O.n .
Opinion 28
CHAPTKU V.
i^ununer in SIi,l-Atlantie-An Eecentric 31oon-Mr. P.lucner Loses Confulenee-
JJV Landing on a Foreign Shore- ensation Among the Xatives-
CHAPTER XL
Solid Informatiou-A Fossil Comn.unity-Curious v,ays and Custon.s-Jesuit
Humbuggery-Fantastie Pilgrimi.ing-Origin of the Kuss 1^" ni t-
S-inanng Accounts with the Fossils-At Sea Again
33
33
vin
CONTKNTs.
CHArTKI! VII.
i'A(ii;
A Tfii.].r.st I't Ki^lit-Si-iiin iiiHl Afncii on Kxliilition— (iiwtiiig a MiiMi''
Stniiigci— 'J"iif I'illars oC Hi-reulrs— TIk^ Ho.k of (Jibriilta^-Tircsomt) ]le\M'-
titioh— "Tlie t.iiiP(ii',H Cimir"— Scmiity Cnii,,,icrc,l-fnrio.sitic.s of tin;
Soci'.t r'averiis— l'(.i>;oiiii(!l of (Jilirnltm—Sonie Odd C'lmrnctcrs— A I'rivatti
Finli,; in Allien -licnidinj,' a Jfooiish (Innison (witliout loss of life)—
Viiiiit;- lifl.ukfi]— I)i.spiiilriikiii<r ill tin- Kniiiiic of Morocco
• 'HArTKi! VIII.
Tlif Aiiri.'iit City of T.iiiKior, Jioiocco-Stiim^c Sirrjils— A Cradle of Antiquity
-Vm. l„...oinc AVc-ltliy-ilov they \loh tin- Mail in Africn-Thn Danger of
k-iiig ()])iil(.nt in Morocco
(IIAl'TKU IX.
A rilgriiu in Deadly I'cril-llow tlioy Men.le.l the CIock-Moori..li runishments
for Crime -JIarriago Custoni.s— Looking Several way.s for Sunday— Shrewd
I'rnntice of Wohnniniodiin Pilgrims- Iteverence for Cats— lili.ss of being a
Consul-Gcnei al
CHAPTKR X.
Fourth of July at Sea-Mediterrimean SMn..et-The "Orade" i.s Delivered of an
Oi.inion-Celebration Ceremonies— The Caiitain'.s Speech -France in Sir^ht
—TLo Ignorant Xativo-Iu Marseilles— Another IJlunder-Lo.st in the
Cirent City— Found Again— A Frenchy Scene
43
5(5
61
CHAPTER XI.
Gettin
lean
'Itmg "T'sodtoit"~NoHo;ip-15ill of Fare, Table d'hote-" An Amerii
Sir !"-^A Curious Discovery-The "Pilgrim" Pird-Strange Companion-
»hil)-A Grave of the Living-A Long Captivity -Some of Duma.s' Heroes--
Dungeon of the Famous "Iron Mask." ^5-
CHAPTKK XII.
A Holiday Flight through France-Summer Oarb of the Landscape-Al.rond on
iheCJieat Plains— Peculiarities of French Cars -French Politeness— Ameri-
can L'aihvay Ollicials-" Twenty Minutes to Dinner ! "-Why there are no
Ac,;idents-The "Old Travellers"-Still on the Wing-Paris at Last-
Fieiuh Order and Quiet -Place of the Pastile-Seeing the Sights-A liar-
barious Atrocity— Absurd Milliards gq,
CHAPTFU XIII.
More Trouble-^Ionsieur Billfinger-Re-Christening the Freuchman-In the
Clothes of a Paris Ouide-The International Exposition-Fine Military
Leviow— Glimpse of the Emperor ISapoleon nnd the Sultan of Turkey 7G.
^U~
t ONTK.VTS,
i'A(ii;
n Aliifestic
esoino ]{epo-
tics of th(!
-A I'liviitH
I of life)—
f Anti<(uity
Danger of
unisliment.i
ly— Shrewd
of being a
43
5(1
61
vered of nn
e in Sight
)st in tlie
American
onijianion-
' Heroes- -
Aliroatl on
s — Anieri-
ere are no
at Last —
s— A Bar-
i — In the
Jlilitary
fkey 7S'
I
< HAl'TKIi .XIV.
The Venemlilc (.'athi'drnl of Notn-i>i
and Sacred IMu's
IX
I'Ao i;
iiic-Jcan Siuispeiu's Ad.lition— Treasures
rn r ni .• l'^" ^''«^'"'^ °'' »'"' <'''^"«-'i'lit' Morgue -The {)utrugeu«.s
Can.(,m-\\\ouAxn Aflanu— The Louvre I'ahie -The Creat I'arlv-Showv
rageantry--rroicrvation of Xotc.l Things
83
CHAITEl! W.
FrencJ. Nnt.mml Iturying Cn.und- Among the (in.it Dead -The Sinine of
.sa,.iM.iM.,.d I.ove-The Story of Abelard and Ileloise-" KugUsh Si.ok.u
H.a- - Amernan Drink.^ (.un.i.oumlcd Jieie'-Impcrial Honors to „.
Amen,.,n-The Over-estimated (irisette- Departure from I'aris- V Ddil,...
i-ate Oimuon ("ouccrning the ('omrlincss .,f Am,rir;,n Women ss
CllAI'Ti:i! XVI.
Versailles-l'ara.lisc ]!egnined--A Wonderful I'ark-l'aradise L^
Strategy.
lOst — Xaiiuleonii'
CHAl'TKK XVI L
War-The American Forces Victorious-" Home Agaiu"-It„Iy in Si-lit-The
C ity of l-alaces'-IJeauty of tlie (Jenoesu Women-Tlie " Stub-Hunters"-
Among the Paiaees-difted Gui.le-Church Magnifu.eMce-"AVon,en not
Admitted -How the Gonoese Live-.Massive Architecture
AncnMit History— Graves for 60,000
90
-A Scrap of
100
CHAl'TEII XVII L
^'''';:!,:y;'.""«!.' 't^'^-Marengo-First Glimpse of the Fan.ous Cathedral-De-
Pt on o, ,ou.e of its NVondors-A Horror Carved in Stone-An Unple -
I stlt s" Ar '"!, V"'-'' '^■"""" '•'■°- ^''^- Ton.b-Tons of GoTd
and S.lver-Some Jlore Holy Rclies-Solo.non's Ten.ple Uivallcd 106
CHAPTER XIX.
*'^''^l!!^J'^ '^""';/"" ^"•■"-'- S-la-IVtrarch and Laura-Lucre.ia
lo.g,a- ngen.ous Frescoes-Ancient Kon>an An,phitheatre-A Ch.ver De
Jath -A\«n ed: Soap-(r.p],]ed French-Mutilated English-The Most
-^^e ■; w' ^' /^IV?^^''--^"-^"- lW.tures-l^.inspired Ci S
Antcdote^A A\onderful Echo-A Ki.ss for a Franc ' ^j.
CHAPTER XX.
K«n.l Italy by Rail-Fumigated. According to La.-The Son-owing English-
Ina„-^ gh by the Lake of Como-The Fanmus Lake-Its Scenery-Como
eomi)ared with T,.1mo_Ai..„+; o, .• . , •<.» occuei} Lomo
comi)ared with Tahoe-Mcetin" a Sli
ip'nato ji,,
122.
* t'ONTKNTN,
< II VITKI: \.\|. ,,,„^.
Tlu! I'lvtty I ii-,'o lii |,.TCM--A CaninKi' Drive in tli.- Couiitrv— AMoiuMiIiik Sori-
nMlily ina Cohhiimn-A Slcpy Imh.I itlo.Mly Sliiin,.H-Tlm H.art an.l
H.,n.(. ol l'iicst.r..rt~A Tlirillin- .Me.liauval l.'oiuai.LV-TJH- lliitl.i.lu-'.' of
Hailciniiii— Aiijpronuliiiijf Vniiiiu! J27
rHAITKII XXII.
Xife'lit in Wiii..,.- The "<;i,y C,,,.,!,,!!,.,-" Tlio (Inni.l IVt,- l,v .M.M,nli«ht~TIic
Xoti.l,!.. Si-litsuf V.'iii.,.— TlieMotli.T,.rilu. liq.nlilir.s l')..,s..lnt.' 133
•HAITKI; XXIir.
Till' Famous (liMi.lola— TIiu (ioinioia in an Unromnntic Aspci't-Tlie (Irwit
S,|naiv.ilSt. Mark an.l tin' Win-.d i.ion -Sn..l,M, nt Hume in,.l Abroad—
Siiaiiclnvsof thc.drci.t iVad- A Tilt at tin 1,1 .Mastm"- A Contra-
liiuitl (iiiiilc 'I'lif Conspiracy .M(i\ing Virain -iin
CIIAITKK XWV.
Down Tlironjrh Italy l.y h'ail— Idlin- in I'lorciic,. -Dante iin.l Calilco-An Un-
grateful City-l)a/<lin;; (ieneiosity— Wonderful .Mosaics— Tlio Historical
Arno—Lost Again— Found Aj^ain, Imt no Fatted Calf Heady -The Leaning
Tower of l>isa-TIn- Aneient Duonio--TI.e Ol.l Original First I'.Mulnlinu
that Kver Swung— An Hnd'anting Kelio— A N.'W Holy .Seiailelirc— A lielic
of Auti(iuity— A Fallen ]{ei.uljli.'— At Legliorn— At llonie Again, and Sat-
isfied, on Board tlift Slii[i— Our Vessel an Ol.jeet of Cnive Suspicion— (!eu.
(larilialdi Visited— Tlirciits of (.Miarantine I49
CHAl'TKl}, XXV.
The "Works of Hankruptcy— liailway (irandenr— How to Fill an Empty Tren.siiry
—The Sumptuousnoss of Mother *'hnreli— Kcclcsinsticnl Sidendor-Sragni-
lieenceand -Misery— tieneral Execration- lAlore iMagnilicenee-A (iood Word
for the Priests— Civita A'ccehia the Dismal— Olf for Rome 15(J
CHAl'TEll XXX].
Tlie ilodern Ronniu on His Travels- The Grandeur of St. Peter's-Holy Relics
—Grand View from tlie Dome— The Holy Inquisition— Interesting Old
-Afonkish Frauds— The T.'nined Coliseum— The Coliseum in the Days of its
Prime— Ancient I'lay-hill of a Colliseum IVrfonnaiice- A Roman Newspaper
Criticism 1700 Years Old j
63
CHAPTER XXVII.
IJutehered to Make a Ronniu Holiday"— Tlie Man who Never Complained— An
Exasperating Sul)ject--Asinine (iuides— Tlie Roman Catacomhs— The Saint
wliose Fen-or P.urst liis Rihs— Tlie Miracle of the RleeJing Heart— The
Ljgend of Am Oeli j^
I'AtltJ
liiii^ Stii'i-
llciii't mill
tll|lllll'|> oC
127
«lit-Tlio
133
III' (Irwit
Aliro.iil —
A <'ipiitra-
HO
-All Til-
fistoiieiil
Viidnluni
-A l!elic
II ml Sat-
in— (!eii.
149
Trensury
— Jragiii-
loil Word
ISO
ly Ifelics
ting Old
y.s of its
L'wspnper
163
nud — An
'lie Saint
lit— The
17
I
I
I
(■OXTKXTN.
CHAl'TKIt XXVIII,
xi
I'.VdK
riffMr."..|ii.- Huir..is-TIM' L.'g.ml of HioHkt Tli..inin ■ Sorrow Sri,.|itifi.'nlly
Aiiiilyz-d-A F.'.stivL'Corni.aiiyor tli<. Dim.!- TIi,. (iivnt Vatirau Museum—
Artist SiiiH of OmisHioii— Tli.' i;;ii.i. nf tli.' Sal.in.w-l'aiul rr.)tccfi,)ii of Art
-lligli IViicdf "Old MaMti.iV.-Iiiiprov.MlScrii.turc -Snil..of Uaiik of tlio
Holy J't'i-soimgcs 111 l.'oriir-Sriilo of Honors Acord.'-l tln-m— Fossilizing—
Away for Xni.|cn jg-
< IIAITKK .NX IX.
>Xi.lris-!n(.Miaraiitiii,M,t Last— Aiiniiii,i,.tion-ANanK of Mnunt Vesuvius- A
Two-CVnt (.■omiui.iiity--T!ic Hlack Sidu of Xeapolitan ('liiUMctcr -Monkish
Miiarles— As.rnt of Mount Vesuvius Contimi.Ml The SHang-r an.l tlio
Hiifkiiian- Night Vit'w of Xaplcs from tii,. Muuntain-sid.'-Asivnt of V.-
suviiis Contiiiucd. ,_«
lo"
<IIAlTi;H xxx.
Asc.>nt of Vesuvius Continu.Ml-Il,.autiful Vi.w at Dawn-Less Itcautilul View
in the I'.aek Streets -Aseent of Vesuvius Coutinued- -Dwellings a Ilnndred
lej-tlligh-A .Motley I'n sioii -Hill of Fare for a IVdler's Hivakfast-
I'rineely Salarios-Aseeiit of Vc.suviu.s C'ontimu-d— An Avera-'e of I'ii.m s—
The W.mlerful " l!lne(;i„tto" -Vi.it to (Vlel,rat..d I alitles in the Hav
ol Naides-riie I'oi.soned " (;,otto of tiif Dog "-A IVtiilied Sea of I.ava-
llu' Aseent Continued- Tlie Sun.niit Ueaehe.l-Deserii.tion of the Crater-
Desrent of Vesuvius
<'ilAI'TKl! X\XI.
T.ie Tluri.d City of l>o„i,,eii-lIow Dwellings Appear that have l.een Unoccupied
lor highteen Hundred Years -The Judgment Seat-Desoh.tiou-Tlie Foot-
pnnt.sof the Departed-" No Women Admitted "-Theatres, l!akeslioi.s.
.Vhoolv, ete. -Skeh.tons Preserved I, v tiie Ashes and Cinders-The Hrave
Martyr to Duty-liip A'an Winkk-Tlie IVrishaMe Nature of Fame 200
fi'Al'TKH XWIl.
At Sea Once More-The Pilgrims all Well -Superb Stromholi-Sieily hy Moon-
l.ght-beylla and Charylalis-Tlie " O.aele" at Fault-Skirting the Lsles
o_t (..vece-Aneient Athens-Iiloekade^l.y (,>uarantinfi and liefused Pern.is-
siou to Lnter-liunning the Hloeka,le-A liloodless Afhlnight Adventure-
rurmngliol.hersfrom Neeessity-Attenipt to Cany the Aeropolis l.y Storm
, '/.'"'t:^'""""' *'"■ ^■^"'^"' »'*''« J'"«t-A World of Ituined S.ulptnre-
A J:ury \ i.sion-Fa,no,.,s Loealitie.s-lfetreating in (Joo I Order-Captured
U the t.uards-Travelling in Military State-Safe on lioard Again 206
CHAl'TFU XXXHl.
Modern Oreoce-Fallen Greatness-Sailing Through the Archipelago and the
Dnrdanelle.s-I.ootpii„t« of History-The First Shod.lv Contractor of whom
Xll
CONTENTS.
I'AOE
History gives niiy .\ccouiit— AixlKpred Hefoio C'oii.stiiiitiiioiilo— Fantastic
Fasliioiis— The Ingenious Ooosc-liiinilicr— Maivellms Cnpiilcs— Tl>e Creat
Mosque— Tiie TIr sand anil One Coluiuns— Tlie (.iraml IJazaar of Staniboul 216
(.'HArTEltXXXiV.
Scarcity of Jlorals and Whiskey— Slave-Girl JIurkct l!ei ort— Commercial Moral-
ity at a Discount— The Slandered I)o<;s of ronstantinople— guestionable
Delights of Xewspa iienlom in Turkey- Ingenious Italian Journalism— No
More Turkish hunches Desired— The Turkisli ISntli Fraud— The Narghileh
Fraud— Jaekplaned liy a Xativi — The Turkish Collce Fraud 22»
CHAPTKl! XXXV.
Sailing through the Bosj 'lorus and the I'.ack Sea—" I'ar-Away Moses"— Melan-
choly Sebitstopol— Hosiiitaiity 1! 'ceived in llussia -rieasaut English
People— Desperate Fighting-ltelie Hunting— How Travelers Form " Tahi-
iiets" 231
f
.4
5
i
CHAFTKlt XXXVI.
Nine Thousand l^IilcpFast-Imitatiou American Town in Russia— Gratitude that
Came too Late— To Visit the Autocrat of All the Kussias 235
CHAPTEH XXXVII.
Summer Homy of Pioyalty— Practising for the Dread Ordeal— Committee on Im-
perial Address— Reception by the Emperor and Family— Dresses of the
Imperial Party— Concentrated Power— Counting the Spoons— At the Grand
Duke's— A Charming Villa— A Kniglnly Figure— The Grand JXuhess— A
Grand Ducal Breakfast— I iaker's IJoy, the Famine-Ih'cedcr— Theatriciil
Monarchs a Fraud— Saved as by Fire- The Governor (Jeneral's Visit to the
Ship— Otfieial "Style"— Aristocratic Visitors—" Munclmusenizing" with
Them— Closing Ceremonies .jg-
CHAPTEl! XXXVIII.
Keturn to Constantinople— We sail for Asia— The Sailors Burles(iue the Imjierial
Visitors— Amient Smyrna— The " Oriental Splendor" Fraud— The " Pili-
lieal Crown of Life"— Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans— Sociable Armenian Girls—
A Sweet Reminiscence- -"The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha!" 23.>
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Smyrna's Lions- The 'Martyr Polycarp— The "Seven Churches"— Remains of
the Six Smyrnas— Jlysteriims Oyster Mim — t)ysters Seeking Si'cnerv— A
Millerite Tradition— A Railroad Out of its Sphei
251
CHAPTER XL.
Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus— Ancient Aya^salook- Tlie Villainous
Donkey— A Fantastic Procession— Bygone Maguificen(;e— Fragments of
History— The Legend of the Seven Sleeiiers
I'AOE
uitnstic
e (Ireaf
amlioul 216
Moral-
ionable
in — No
i-gliilcli
Mflaii-
'liigli.sli
'■' CM-
231
le that
rj
< ONTEXTS,
CHAl'TKH XI A.
XIU
I'ACK
Vandalism I'rohibite.l-Au-iy rilgiiins-Ai.pioacl.ing Holy J.aiul !-.Tl,o shrill
Note of I'rq.aratiou-l)istrc.ss AUmt Dragomans aii.l Traiisi,„rtatioii-The
'• Long Koute" AdoiitcJ— In Syria— Something al.oiit lloiroiit— A Vhnva
Spcdmi-ii of aCnM.k " F.'rgnson " -Outlit.s-Hhleou.s Horseflo.sh-l'ilirrim
" Stylo"— What of Aladdin's Lamii !
'1'
261
CJIArTKIl XL] I.
"Jack.s,>nvilh-," in tl.o Mountains of Lcbanon-Hrcakfasting ahovv a (Ir.nd
Panoramu-TIic Vanished (.'ity-Th.' IVniliar Stml, ".r,.rirl„."_The
I'llgiim's Progress -IJilde Scenes-Mount Hermon, Josliua's IJattle-Fiokls
ete.— The Tomb of Noah— A .Most Unlortunate IVojde '
CHAPTKll XLl ;
ratriarclial Customs-Magnificent Uualbc— Desc'rijitiou of the Kuins-Scribblin-
Smithsan.l Joneses-Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter of the Law- The Itev^
268
trend Fountain of Baalam's Ass.
2/0
311 Ini-
ot the
Grand
■ss— A
atrical
to the
' with
237
i]ierial
"liib-
iirls —
235
:n3 of
•y-A
251
unous
ts of
CHAPTEl! XLIV.
Extracts From Note-Book-Mahomofs Paradise and the Bilde's-lieautiful Di
mascus, the Oldest City on Earth-Oriental Scenes within tiie Curious 01,1
ill
iaere-
rs
City-Damascus Street Car-The Story of St. Paul-The " Street ('allea
Straiglif-Mahomet's Tomb and St. ( !eorge's-The Christian Massacre-
Mohammedan Dread of Pollution-The House of Naamau-Tho Horro..
ol Leprosy
276
CHAPTER XL\'.
The Cholerr.by way of Viriety-Hot-.\nother Outlandish Procession-lVn-and-
nk hotograph of " Jonesborough," Syria-Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty
Huner-lhe Stateliest liuin of All-Stepping Over the Ik^rders of Soil
Land-Ba hing m the Sources of Jordan-More "Specimen" Hunting-
Lu-ns of Cesarea.Philippi_"On this Kock Will I Build n.y Church"-The
eople the D.scples Knew-The Noble Steed " 15aalbec"-Sentimental
Horse Idolatry of the Arabs ""-"i.u
283
CHAPTEK XLVI.
Dan- Bashan— (Jenessaret— A Notable Pan
Scraps of History
orama— Smallness of Palestine
Sempsot History -Character of the country-Bedouin Shepherds-Glininses
o tie Hoary Past-Mr. Grimes's Bedouins-A Battle-GrJund of Joshua-
Ihat Soldiers Alanm-r of Fighting-Bar.k's Bnttle-The Necessity of Un-
learnnr,' Some Things— Desolation..
291
'' I
I I
I' i
XIV
CO>fTENT,S.
CHAPTER XLVII.
Jack s AJvon uro-Josoph-s Tit-TLe Story of Jo-soph-Joseph's Maguaninntv
^V].y A\ e did not Sail o., Oalilee-About C'ai.ernaun.-Conn.n.ing the Savi-
our.s IJrotliew and .Si.stm-,Iounu.yin- toward Magdala 05-
CHAPTKK XLVIII.
Curious Si,e..i,.,..ns of Art and Archit.cture-rul.lic Reooptiou of tlu- Pilgi-in^s
-^^■y Magdal™ s House Tih.ias and it. Queer l„.,al.itant.-The ^^crod
bea ot Galilee— Galilee by Night
CHAI'TKIJ XLIX.
'"'"'^tlrT'cr-^: Appirition-A Distinguished Panoran.a-Thc Last
Battle 01 the Crusades-Tlu- Story of tlu- Lord of Kerak-Mouut Tahor-
A\hat one Sees roui its Top-A Memory of a Wonderful Garden-The
House of Deborah the Prophetess
0I3
CHAPTKl! I,.
To.v-a.-a Xazareth-Bitten by a Canud-Grotto of the Annunciation. Xazaretli-
^oted (.rottoes in General-Joseph's Workshop-A saered Bowlder-The
Fountain of tlu- \ irgin-Questionabie Female Beauty- Literary Curiosities 320
CHAPTER LL
Tlie IBoyhood of the Saviour-Unseemly Ant ios of Sober Pilgrims-Home of the
^'^IJ^t^'T^T-''^'^:^^'}-^-^ ^""P"^- Oriental Pieture-Hibli-
cal Meta],ho.s Becoming steadily More Intelligil.le-The Shunem Mirade-
IJie I'ree Son of the Desert "—Ancient .lezreel-
Samaria and its Famous Sier'o
-Jehu's Achievemonts-
327
CHAPTER LIL
''''t2''''^Z\AT ^'''^^«^-^-"~'^''« Oldest « First Fam.Iv - o„
Earti-llu Okies Manus.;npt Extant-The (Jenuine Tond. of Joseph-
JacobsUell_Shiloh-Camping.ith the Arabs-Jaed,'s Ladde.-Aore
Desdation-Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, the Fountain of Re' „"
Impatieuce-Appv. aching Jenisalem-The Holy City in Sight-Xotin^ its
Prominent Features-Domiciled Within the Saered Walls ! _
CHAPTER LIIL
"The Joy of the Whole Earth "-Description of Jerusulem-Chureh of the
Hol> Sepulchre The Stone of rnction-The Grave of Jesus-Graves of
Nieodenius and Joseph of Arimathea-Plaees of the Apparition-The Ih.d
orch.t..-..Thecent;:^i;e'i::^:c:^;rr;--^^^^^^^
336
i*#
I'AGK
gniiuiiiiity
^'ilgrinis—
the Savi-
297
Pilgrims
he Sacred
.30G
riie Last
Tabor—
Icii-The
513
.zarptli —
ler— Tlio
iriosities 320
ic of the
— liibli-
iracle —
uents—
ly on
iseph —
— llore
CHAP T E R I .
Foil moutlis tlie great Pleasure Excursion to Europe ami tlie Holy
Liuul was chatted about in the newspapers everv where in Auierio'i
mi.l (hscnssecl at countk^ss tiresides. It was a novelty in the way of
Ji,xcursions_its like had not been tliou-lit of befoi-e, and it coni,.elle.l
that interest which attractive novelties always command. It was to be
a pic-nic on a gigantic scale. The i)articipants in it, instead of frei-htin-^
an ungainly steam ferry-boat with youth and beauty and ..ies and doucd,'
nuts, and paddling up some obs(7ure creek to disembaVk upon a <'rassy hnvn
and wear themselves out with a long summer day's laborious frolickin-
under the impression that it was fun, were to' sail away in a -rea't
steamship with flags flying and cannon pealing, and take a royal ]io?iday
beyond the broa.l ocean, in many a strange clime and in many a land
.•enowned in history I They were to sail for months over th^ breezy
Atlantic and the sunny Mediterranean ; they were to scamper about tli'e
decks by day, hlhng the ship with shouts and laughter-oV read novels
and poetry m the shade of the smoke-stacks, or watch for the ielly-fisli
and the nautilus, over the side, and the shark, the whale, and other
.strange monsters of the deep ; and at night they were to dance in the
opsn air, on the upper deck, in the midst of a ball-room that stretched
from horizon to horizon, and was domed by the bending heavens and
lighted l,y no meaner lamps than the stars and the magidficent moon^
dance, and promenade, an.I smoke, and sing, and make love, and search
the skies for coiuitellations that ne\er associate with the " Bi.r Dinner "
they were so tired of : and they were to see the ships of twenty navies-
the custonis aiul costumes of twenty curious peoples-the grelit cities of
half a world-they were to hobnob with nobility and hohl friend 1 ton
::^tyt^ *"^' ^•""^^^' ^'™"^ ^^°-"^«' '""' ^'- --"'*-' 'oi-rof
Itwas^abrave conception; it was the ofisining of a most iiK'enioM^
).rain. It was well advertised, but it hardly ^'needed t t^fe ,o
originality, he extraordinary character, the seductive nature md he
yastness of the enteiin- se provoked comment every wliore an ad ertis d
in every household m the land. Who could i-ead the ..ro^ramme of
the excursion without longing to make one of the pai-ty ? ^ I w^ SLrt
it Jiere. It is amo.Bt u^ ^-i^-i .... « » * •; . . ^ "i" insert
could be better :
good as a map. A,s a text for this book, notl
iinj:
18
A SKDl (TIVK I'liCHiKAMMK.
KXCURSION To THE ]iOLV LAXJ). KdYl'T, TJIK (-lil.MK.v, «.;i!l':i':
AND IXTKILMEDIATK POINTS oF INTMIJKST.
CK,
V,
iKl.VN, /■'■/,,
■■>; /.v.', /.w:
he innliTsigiiC'il will ninkp nn cxmrsioii us aljovc diiriiiu; tl.c coiiiin.r simsoii. iiiitl
iinj;;rainiii('
lii-.gs tci stilunit to yn\i tin' i'dllowin
A lii'st-i'l;i,s-i sti'iiiiipr, ti)li(t uinlcr liisowii coiiiiu.'i;ii
it li'iist oiii' hunilrt'd and lil'tv c:\h
tiik
] lilt. sell '41 ■)■.-
Th
u'u a SL'lcct coiiiiiniiy, iiuniln'i-iiiir not ni(.!'c lliiin tlir;
>•!■■
i|.i
1.!,
of aci'oinnii) latii)}!
cro is <'(i()il riMscin to 1
m wliii'ii
'tl
will
u'licvc that this
comiiaiiy tail
('■hiiliths nt thi'shiji s caiKUity.
imtMliatc vicinity, nl' niiUiial tViciiils ■>.iul aci|iiaintaii
easily iiiaili; n]i in
th
i';l With every neei'ssary (■oint'cnt, iiii'linliii'^' liinarv ami
The steamer will lie proviil
iiiiisieal iiistrnnienis.
All exiicrii'iieed ]ihysieian will lie on lioard.
i.eaviiii,' Xi'w York about .hiiie 1st, 11 iniddh; and iileasant route will he take
aeross tlie Atiantie, iind ]iassiii,if tl)rnne,!i the ,;,n-ouii of A/.ores, St. .Mii'hael will 1
reaehed in about ten days. A day or two will lie spent liere, eiijovin',' tl
)e
wild
seeiiery ol
tl
islaml
le irint am
Uiive or lour dav.-
tlie voyage e(Hilimied, and Cibrallar reaelicd i
u
A day or two will lie s)>eiit liere in loo!<in,'j; over the wonderrul .suhterraii
l.eations, perinissioii to visit tliese .i;al!eries bein^ readilv olitained.
eons t(
)rti
From (iibraltar, 1
ie:!ehe(
1 in tl
ininiii,!:,' .don;' tin' eoasts of Spain and Fraiii
-Marseille
iree days. Here ample time will be f,dv-ii not only to look over tl
u-iaeii was founded six linndred years before the Christian er
ill
leeitv,
i(!
tlie iinest of the kiml in the .\lediter
1, and its artilicial port,
ibit:
on
d til.
intifnl city of 1
wlii(di, oil a elear day,
wlio may wisli to extend tlie time at IV,!'
Swifzeriand, rejoin tlie steamer at (leiioa.
ranean, but to visit Paris dnriiii,' tlu' i^'reat
yons, lyin;,' intermediate, from tlie hei,i,'lits of
'11. I'assenirer.s
t IJhim.' and the Aljis ean be distimtl
IS ean uo so, ai,
.1,
Kissiii'' dnwii tiirouiili
V
M
rirseilles to (
'portnnity to look over tliis
teima is a run
it.
I he exeursionists
ill 1
m
igiiilieent eily of iial
lave an
ol Coluinbns, twelve miles oli', over a beautiful n.a
this jioint, exenrsions may be nnnle to Milan, l/ikesL'i
laces," and visit the birthphtee
built by Na])ole(m 1. Kroin
. . lit", 1/ilvesL'oaio and ,Mai,'uion', (U'to .Milan,
\evoiia, (lamons for its extraordinary fortilications,) I'adna, and Venice. ( tr, if
liassen^eis desire to visit I'arnia (famous for Conviiirio's frescoes,) and liohK'na, they
can by rail go on to I'lorenee, and rejoin the steamer at I.e;diorn, tlrasTnendini'
about tlivee weeks amid tlie cities most famous for art in Italy." ' "
_ From (Iciini tlie run to Leglmni will be nia.le along the coast in one ni-lit, and
time. appriiU'iatcd to this iioint in which to visit Florence, its iialaces and galle'ries ;
Pisa, its Cathedral and "Leaning Tower," and Lucca and its baths, and Itoniaii
amphillieatre ; Floreii.ie, the most remote, bi ing disiant livrail about sixty miles.
Frmu Leghorn to Na|ile.s, (.■ailing at Civiia A'eccuia to' land any wlio "inav invfer
to go to IJome fro;n that point,) the distance will lie made in about thiitv-si.x' lioura ■
the route will lay along the coast of Italy, elo.se by Cajirera, Fiba, and Corsiea.'
.Arrangements have been made to take on hoard at Leghorn a pilot for (lanrera, and
it iiraetieable, a (-all will be n^ade there to visit tlu' home of (l.iribaldi. '
IJonie, [by rail] llereulanenm, I'ompcii, Vesuvius, Virt^Ml's tomb, and possililv,
the ruins of I'a'stnin, can be visited, as well as the beautiful siirronndin
and its charming bav.
,'s of Xa))ies
Tl
Uie next point of interest will be ralermo, the most laautiCul citv of Sieilv
liiidi will
real
bed
m one night fr,)m
Xi
A da
eaviiig in the evening, the . /lurse will be taken towards Ath
the north coast of Sicily, passing thnnigh th
It le
and
ikU-tllin-
Ion;
in si.ght of Stroniboli and Vuh'ini, both a<'tiv(^ volciina.s, tlirundi t
}>l
essina, wi
th
•Vila ■ on the oin
hand and " Ch
east eoa.st of Sicily, and in siglit of ]\limnt .t
U'V
th.
•,tiia, a
long tl:e .sontli coast of Ita
.Lolian l.'-Ies,
'traits of
along the
west nml simth coast ol' (;rce(!e, in sight of ancient (.'ivte, u 1 Athens (
tlio
■ nil, and into
Y
A SKDCCTIV; VI(i)(;i!AJ!MK.
.MK.S (■Ilil'.KCK,
T.
■Ht'r>i /.v.', /,sv;;".
iMi'lii; .sciisoii. iilul
il' rti'riiiiniio luting
II whii'Ii will Ik-
licsliiji's caiiai-ity.
iiiiiilt; u|i in tliis
iiiliu'' liiiiiii'v iMul
Itf will lie t:ikcn
.Mii'liacl will be
w'A the iVuit and
iraltar reached in
litriranoous I'orti-
MarsciHcs will Ik;
iiok o^■('l• the city,
its artilji-ial jiort,
lurini,' the gi-fiit
ini tlic hci,i,']it.s of
ecu. Passengers
<j^ diiwn tlirongli
.sts will have an
-;it tlie birthplace
pojeiju 1. Frt.ni
lore, or to Milan,
A'eniee. < »r, it"
id l!olo;,'na, they
1, thus siieniling
' one iii;;!it, and
es and /.jalleries ;
iths, and b'onian
it sixty miles,
who may jirefer
hirty-six hoiira ;
la, and Corsica,
or Caprcra, and,
di.
), aul |ii>ssibly,
riiiigs ol' Xapics
1 I'ity of l^icily,
.s;)e:it liere, and
of .llolian If-les,
h the >S traits of
other, along the
ast of Italy, the
IS Old I', an<l into
i»
..., arriving in about foi-ty-eight hours from At!,;,!' ' ■"'''"" "'"'"'
.Alter leaving C•.Ml^tantinol,|e, ihe way will be taken out tliroirdi the b..".,-r.,i
tions, and batllc-lields of tl e ( 'r ,m^ X' e^i 'ahro. ? ? t '" If ' "''"■'"
.t Consta„tiiu,,de to take in any who m "l ,,v^ . S^ ^\ :„; 1 1 "^^^
hroughthe_SeaofMarn.oraandti.el)ardane!les,al,,ngt .^°t ™
l.yduin Asia, to Sinynia, which willlaMvached in two or tu'> "h /, i i V '^
<;onst:n.tinoi,le. A sniiicient stay will be niade he e^^^^. ) ' "li , ^'^: '?! ii^'^
I'-l'lK'-'iiS iiltv miles distant bv nil ' pii-uiiu, ot >.'i-.:i.^
J'roni Smyrna twards t!,e Holy Land tlie co.use wilMav trron-h t',.> <;, .-in.
.\.ch pelago, clo^: by th. Isle of l>atmos, along the coast, of A^ia, " ^ n^ I'-n, h,' i^
.ii;d the sle ol ( y,,rns. iieirout will i,e reached in three dav^ At U^',.; t '?'
wi 1 be given to visit l)a,naseus ; alter which tile steamer will^^em t J^ , '"'"
1 101, .Jop.,a, ,I..nis:dc!n, tlie Uivcr dorian, the Sea of TiiM-iias, \-vareth JJ ■ ' h.- v
ss n^ t ""-y I'^V" IM-clerred to make til., journey f,J,n Iieirout ',W-.-.,/, fl t- c • -^^
and tlie .Va ol I iberias, can rejoin tiie steamer ' '"•'i-io..iu
J-eavmg.loppa, the next point of interest to visitwill be Alexandria, whi. ', -vi'l bo
P
th
I'rom Alexandria the route will be taken homcu-anl cillo,...,t \l,lt, <■ .r • •
N.nhnia,, and l-arnia ,in Majorica,) all maguilicent h H : M:; L ^ U^ !:;,W!:'
and alioundiiig 111 Iruits. "O coainung -■ eneiy,
A day or two will be sp/nt at each i.laee, and lea-iu- i'lnna i,. fl„. »--, •
-jf^^dn^'^ISitc,:;:;;™;;;-;:::;^^^
-lislant, and (iil,.iltar readied in about tw'ntvS lll^l'J"' ^""" ' ''"' "' '■"^'' "^' ^^^'^
Asiay „1 one day will l,e made here, and tiie vca...;.. c„:, tinned h. M.'e..,-, „ ^i ,,,
Xvill be reached 111 about tiireu da vs. CanMin .Vairv tt wr^te- • I 1 , "i I
spa on te globe which .. innci, astonishes .J'^ilil^l! il^^ ,J i;.;:; ';':--
««.„ti,.„,,, „,„,,i,v:,,i;;.Li;;;','„i ■ '"■" '" "■■•' '''"'-="" "•■""'"■■ '■■•' «
;! „|
20
EXROIiLKD AMO\(; THK
.SELK(T.
ciigiigcil, nml no passage considi-red ungagi'il until ten per cent, of tliu pnssago money
is deposited with tlie troasurer.
rasseiigei's can remain on board of tlie steamer, at all ports, if they desire, without
additional expense, mid all boating at tlie expense of the ship.
All passages must be paid for when taken, in order that the most perfect
nrrangenu-nts be made for starting at the appointed time.
A]iplieations lor passage must be apjiroved by the committee before tickets are
issued, and can 1)c made to the undersigned.
Articles of interest or curiosity, procured by the passengers during the voyage, may
}m brought home iii the steamer free of charge.
Five dollars jier day, in gokl, it is believed, will lie a fair calculation to make for
«// travelling cxi'enscs on shore, and at the various points wlicre passengers may wish
to leave the steamer for daj-s at a time.
The trip can be extended, ami the route (.'hanged, by idiaiiimous vote of the pas-
Kcni'crs.
l;. K. G''*»»*, Treasurer.
CHAS. C. DUNCAN,
117 W.vi.i. SriiKKT, Ni:w Youk.
C'd.MMITTEl'. oX Al'I'I.KJ.VriONs.
,1. T. H*'*^^*'. K.S,,,. It. 1{. (;«♦••♦, Esy., c. C. DUNCAN.
C(>.mmitti:e u.v sklkctin(i STKAirici!,
('Arr. W. W. S****, Sun-cijor for Board of ('ndmrriliirs.
C. \\\ (;"*'*«***, Coiimlliwi Emjiiwr for I'. S. and Cirnadn.
J. T. H.«*'-*, Es(,.
C. C. DUNCAN.
r. S. — Tiie very beautiful and substantial side wlieel steamship " (^aokcr Uift/"
lias been chartered for thi' occasion, and will leave New York, -hine Sth. Letters
bavo been issued l)v the governmi'iit commemliiig the party to courtesies ul)road.
I M
What was there Lickinj^ about that j)i'ogi-ainiiie, to make it perfectly
irresistible ? Notliing, t])at any finite miml could di.scov(>r. Pari.s,
Euglauil, Scotland, Switzerland, Italy — Claribahli ! Tlie Grecian archi-
pelago ! Vesuvius I Constantinople I Smyrna 1 The Holy Laud !
.Egypt and " our friends tlie Bevmudians I" People in Europe desirin"'
to join the Excursion — contagious sickness to be avoided — boating at the
expense of tlie ship — i)hysician on board — the circuit of the globe to be
made if the [lasseugers unanimously desire it— the com[)any to be rigidly
selected by a pitiless " Committee on Applications " — the vessel to be as
j-igidly selected by a pitiless " Conmiittee on Selecting Steamer." Human
nature could not withstand these bewildering temptations. I hurried to
the Treasurer's otHce and deposited my ten per cent. I rejoiced to know
that a few vacant state-rooms were still left. I did avoid a critical
pei-sonal examination into my character, by that bowelless conmiittee,
but I referred to all the people of liigli standing I could think of in the
-community who would be least likely to know anytliing about me.
Shoi-tly a sup])lementary ])rogrannne was i.ssued which set forth that
the Plymouth Collection of Hymns would be used on board the ship.
1 tlieu 2)aid the balance of m}' passage money.
EXHOLLKD AMDXC THK '• SELECT.'*
It
the passrtgo money
ley desire, without
tlie most perfect
befoiv tickets nve
g the voyage, may
lation to make for
sseiigcrs may wish
lit vote of tile pis-
:v, Xkw YoiiK.
. V. DUNCAN,
> "(Jinikrr di/i/"
uiifi «tl(. F.etters
tesies abroad.
ake it perfectly
icov(!r. Paris,
i Grecian arclii-
Holy Laud !
Europe desiring
—boating at the
the globe to be
ay to be rigidly
vessel to be as
nior.'* Human
1. I hurried to
yoiced to know
Lvoid a ciitical
ess committee,
;hiidc of in the
ibout lue.
I set forth that
board the ship.
I Mus |.rovided with a receipt, and duly and otKeialiv acce|)ted a.s an
excursionist. There was happiness in that, l)ut it was tame compared
to tlie novelty of being " .select."
Tills supiileinentary programme also in.structed the excursionists to
provide them.selves with ligiit musical in.struinents foi- amu.sement in tlie
shij) ; with saddles for Syrian travel ; green sp.'ctacles and iimbrclias •
veils for Egypt ; and substantial clothing to use in rough pilLrrimiziii" iii
the Ploly Land. Furthermore, it was suggested that although the slm.'s
hbi'ary would aii'ord a fair amount of reading matter, it would still bo
well if each pa.ssenger would provide himself with a few guide-books n
Bible and some standard works of travel. A list was apj.ended, which
consisted clnetly of books relating to the Holv Laud siiic.> tlh^ If.jly
was part of the excui>iion and seemed to be its main f.^atuiv.
Rev. Henry Waul Beecher was to have accompanied the ev.Hvlition
but urgent duties obliged him to give up the id.M. Tiu.TO wei- otlan-
pass-ngers who could have been spared better, and v.'„v.ld liav." been
span'.l nion; willingly. Lieut. Gen. Sherman was to have bcsMi of tho
parly, also, l)ut the Indian war compelled his presence on the plaiin V
pojiular actress ha<l entered her name on the .ship's books, but .sometluii"
interfered, and .s/w couldn't go. Tlie "Drummer Bov of the Potomac"
deserted, and lo, we had never a celebrity left '.
However, we were to have a " l)atterv of -ui;:s " from th,., Vavy
Department, (as ])er advertisement,) to be u.sed in ;uis\n.., in-' loval s^bites •
and the document furnished by the St^cretarv of the Navy ' wjiieli v.s
to make -Gen Sherman and party " welconie gue.sts i„ the courts and
camps ot t le ( hi U orld was still left to us, though both .loeument a'ml
batte ,; I think, were shorn of som(,what of their original aug;i.,t i.ro-
lK.rtmns, Ho^yever, ha.l not we the seductive programme, still, with
Its iaris. Its (.onstantuioj.Ie. Smyrna, Jerusalem. Jericho, and - .„n-
friends the Bermudians >" What did we care '
I'
4
(• n
i: T
n
1 1
(.v'A^^l()^■Al,i<^^ dui-in-' th- M
>\'!(Il-StlCct t
iowin^' liidiit!!. I (lix)i)].c(l in at 11
() iii(;i;ivi' Ikav the ivi.airinn; niid ivn!nii;-iiiiiii.M>f t!
vesHcl -.vas colli hignii ; huv,- a.dditiins to the pa>iscii;;fr list \\
liuv.'
4\!lli
iiiaiiv
1
1
ti
t' ii'ir.iiiitt'.'c
erf <]('(r('Hii'
t-rc avtMatrui'
JIOC
M'hct.
vvvvy (lav
Vv-f'n- ti) J
tni^])lll■; ill suiT(-xv and triliulatioii. 1 wan -Ird to know tl'iat ^^
oi;;' (I'.VH.
i:\V'' a liuh: ]>rintin,'4' l'i<>:« on lioai'd and i^
to k'ari) that our j;iano, our i^arlor oi;
■au' a dan\- lunv.sMant'i
ui and oui
of
la^lod.vu v-cic toi- rh- l-rst instruments '(,f tlio kind that could in- had
uiioi)';' oi'.r (weursionists
Ml tac inark'.t. J Ava.^ |>roud to observe tliat
voro TJaci
iinistt-T^ of IJ!
kdii-.'
ainnii; ii-,,-) ui' '• Pn I;
('■os);c
.^ovi'rai n\i!i(.;iv
(nyht doctor
s. hixtccn or cvihtccii
Mid uaNal chieftains v,-itli soiindin;:- title:
' CV'.M.X
rissjoMOi! <;r t:
AND AkIMC
caroiuiiv
of t!
j.rei.
ihnndi
cd niv;
son
■niL
Oi
vartor.s Kind
an
d
'•ntl
MTK]) fv
aftei' hi
■ATKS
Amk
IMCA TO
•If to take rutJier a luick
Ma.iae in one ;'A\fiil
ieac m tiia
einau wlio
'A uo
l)las
ail
I had
•K, Asia.
t : 1 had
tlu'uudi tl
,e uncoininoniy select n'.at( rial tliat vouhl alone 1
,sh
ip, iHcanse
jiernntted to p
luvs'.'it to ex]
10 eaiiK'isey. of tiiat ccnimittee on credentials; I had scliuolcd
nr
'laA
t<
:-t tl
■m naposni,:;- array of iiiiiitarv and Jiaval heroes, and tc
l)t
at iKWK seat sli
p; luit I sttite iVanklv that I
turther hack in ci;iise(juenc(
til
I f'U unde
that
was'
of it.
1 unprcjiarod for f/iis crushe
uiav
ir, II
hnr ; ituhir iwalandie a torn and a hlidited tliint:. I said
|Kj!:ei:i:irc v/r/.',s/ y;o over in our slii
must— hut tiiat to my thinkintc,
necessary to slmuI a dis^'nitai-v of t-ia.t toiii
Avluii the r
nice
I. \\ Jiy
•'•ta
I su)
iposeii
1,
Jie
AS considered it
}
•L-
trer t.istt
■.ut
1 safer, u
Ki;j-e acr()>;s tlio ooeau. it
would
Kectieiw. in several s]
uKe Iniii a]:art
cait him o\er ii
Ull!
JUi. if 1 liad only known. 1]
li' ins mission had aothu
and
colk
jiecuJi
the ;•
D
K'li, l/iat lie v>-as oidv a cei
i:;aoii narrta!
't::i.;- of
ig more overpowerin;,' ahoul it than the
Indlf:
S'^eos, and uncor.mion vams rani i xtr;
•Oi.
-laitiisoniaii in.^iit
fur that
ordinar\' ca
hliaii
,es and
T
poor, useli-'ss, iunoc^mc. mihlewed old fossil.
:i'.
tha-.
A\ouid ha\e
riU'
radilo mouth l 1
once in }nv
IJISKC
felt S'l much ndieved
the !
ni
'.-er
tiody Wi.s >j;ouig to Lurojie — I, too, was
E
l>od
Paris £.\j'ositio!
!je drjiLUi:
iX v.'i
:h tl
ha]ipiuess of being for
.a tide of a great ])Opul:ir movement.
y v;as ^oni
,i,oing to Eu.ro];e
.vl,\ei'\-
o the fa.moe.s I>aris Exj csition— I, too, was going to the
The ,st
ea.utsini)
IKS we)'{> cavi'TU-g Americans or;t
Mil. nr.rciiKH's oimxkjn.
I'ol>]ir(l ill iit 117
J!Mlisiliu,ir of till'
were ii\Triii,'iiij:;' ;
1( ct," t'Vt'fy (liiy,
to know tlKit Avc
tliiily na\v»j)iiper
or oi'}!;;!u nnd our
liat i.'(,!il(I ))(' liad
iM- ('.\cuvsiouists
('('11 or ('iu'litccii
iidin;;- titles, an
itlcman wlioliad
) Kiiio;'!:, Asia.
\\ blast : 1 liad
la.t .ship, hfcansf
)ei'n\itt(^d to jir.ss
; I had sclioolfd
id heroes, and to
leiice of it. may
.s- eiiisliev.
d tiling. J said
I Kn{<j;<j:i(-d he
.t!i c'oiisiileied it
(;cea!i, it would
irt him o\ir in
'(.liiiiiun nioi'tal,
luul it than the
I'y cabbages and
cwed old fossil,
ieved.
LOSS of being for
alar luoveuient.
Liurope. Every
kvas going to tlu-
ri'.orioaiiH or.t o!'
the \anoiisiMa't:. of the e^auitry at (he rate of four orii'.e ,huii,ui'i ,
week- in the aggregate. If | „„.t a dozen individuals, diiriii ' that
month, who were not going to Knro;,e shortly. 1 have no distinct reaiei,,.
bran... of It now. I walked about tho city a good .h'al with a V(M,n..
Mr. Jducher, who was booked for the excu.-sion. He was eoniidin'."
good-natured, unsophisticated, eoiiipauioiiabh' ; lait he was notHi nan, U,
set the river on tire. H- had the nio.st ( .vtr;ua-dinarv u..ri,M.s about this
huro|.can e.xodn.s, and came at h.st to consider the vsliole nation as imck
g up tor emigration to France. We stepp, d into a store in liroadwav
hief. i',n,l \\h,.j| (I,.
'i^an ('(add n. >.
n.atiun ur-
m
one day, where he bought a haud'ce-'c
make cliange, .Mr. .15. su'ul :
"Never mind, I'll hand it to y,.., in iViis."
" ibit 1 am n(;t goin-- to Par's."
" How is -wha;; did I under.itand vou to aar f
" 1 s lid I Mm noi g(jiiig- to Paris."
"Not going to /Vm/ Not.^-w..ll t'a'u, wher
you g ling r
" iVowiiere at ail."
'• Xot any v,-]u:r(- whatsoever ?— not any place on earth but this '"
' ^ot any plaeo at all but just tliis-stay here all summer."
J^y c(jnirade t(,ok hi>. purchase .md wallced out ..f the store wiiiiout a
^: ;i '■';^' (Hit with an inp.red hu.k ui.on Ids (.-antcmamv. C,. ,h,
•street apiece ho broke sdenee and said impres.sivelv , '• it wis a li • ' th- t
IS my opinion of it .'" .' - '- »— <i lu rn. t
1 J';/;;V''l'"^rf *V"^' '' ■ ^^h> --■•-ady to recdve her pa.s. n.vrs
1 vas intro uce.| to lie young gentleman who was to b. mv room nmte
am i(;un hm. to b. intelligent, cheerful of spirit, :Jm^yTli
N:.' ';,;.• :^;.!;ir' !'f"^'*'.r^f!'-'''f^'' "»'l ^^--'-derfuny goodmatured.
^o. an., passenger dait sailed m the Qmd-cr ('it,, u l! witldmld hi-
it !m^ '] I ''" • ^i^;'""'"-'' ^r'^'- " -'!"^v .bcks." It had two berths
m.t,a(.,sual .h^add.ght, a sink with a wash-bowl in it and a 'on,..
^.mpt,u..dy eushmned locker, whicli was to do ser^ ice as a sc^l , J .' ly'
and partly as a hnhng-phice f\.r our things. Notwithstandiie. ■, 1 fl^i:
lai , foi a ship s state-room, and was in everv wav satis.actory
Jhe vessel M-as appointed to sail on a cnlaiu i^kurdav earlV in dune
A little aft-^r noon, on that distingidslied Saturdav, iVeache^l L hio
and .vent on board. All was bu.stk^ and confusion 111,. ve -ei t t
J-mirk before, somewhere.] The pier was crowd<^d w i c Ha^^s ni
^un ; passengers Moi^ arriving and hurrying on b(=ard • e C ?
drizzliui
e traveling costuTn(>s, M-cre moj.in-; abcnt lu ■<
lam and lookmg as droopy and wo.sbegone as ;so many moltinu'
cmekens. The o-allant flmr tiou ,,
-i-iii- r,<oi,un nag AWIS ll|,. 1,111 II was 1111,1'... (1.^ ^-..,n j. ,. , ,
hnn, hmp and disheartened by thi mast. Alf^Jher.'!; .^i: ti^ Mu;!"!
!t it was n?id"!' tli^- s'-e'l" *■(
L If
If
li'
'J4
'* (AST OKK.
n ;i|l1
l)lufKt siioctadc 1 1 1 was n iilt-usiiiv excursion -tlu-re wu.s no guinsiiying
that, luscauHt^ tlio pro^'ranniie Haiti ho — it was so iiouiinattnl in tliw bond —
Imt it surely liiidu't tlii! ^'cneral aNpect (,f one.
Finally, aUove the lian;,'in;,', auil runihlini,', laid slioutinjL,', and iiisHing
of Ht«ani','ran;,' the ordei- to "east oH" I" a HinUlen runh to the gangways
-a seaiMjiering usliore of visitors — a revolution of tla* wheels, and w«
were oil" the [lie-nie was Ix'gnn 1 Two very mild cheers went up from
the drii)i)ing crowd on the pier ; we answei-ed them gently from the
slijiliery (h'cks ; the Hag made an etl'ort to wave, and failed ; the " hattery
<if guns" spake not ---the annnunition was out.
We steamed down to the foot of tlie Jiarinn- and came, to anchor. It
was still raining. An<l not only iviining, but storming'. '• Outside" we
c(ndd see, ourselves, that there was a ti'enienchais sea on. We must Ha
still, in the calm harboi', till the storm should aliale. Our passengers
hailed from fifteen States; only a few of them had evei- lieen to sea
before ; manife„tly it would not do to ]iit them against a full-blown
tempest until the'y had got their seadegs on. Toward evening the two
steam-tugs that had accompanied us with a rolicking champagne-party of
voung New Vorkm'H on board who wished to bid fai'owoll to one of our
number in due and a-iclent foi-m, dejiarted, and we were alone on the
deei). On deep live fathoms, and anclioi'cd fast to tlie bottom. And out
in the solemn rain, at that. This was pleasuring with a vcngnance.
It was ana)ipropriale relief when the gong sounded for prayer meeting.
The lirst Saturday uighv o'i any otlai' pleasiu'e excursion might have
been devoted to \vhist and dancing : I'ut I subndt it to the unprejudicea
mind if it would have been in good ta.ste for I's to engage in such frivoli-
vies, considering what we Iiad gone tlu'ough and the frame of mind we
were in. We would have sjioiie at a v.ake. but not iit any thing more
festive.
However, there- is idways a cheering influence about the sea ; and in
my berth, tliat night, locked by the measured swell of the Avaves, and
lulled l)y the min-mur of the distant sui-f, I soon jiassed tranipiilly out of
idl cons'eiousness of the dreary I'Xperieiiccs of tlie day and damaging
premo!iir!( r.s <,f tin' future.
J-
■'A
i«s no gainsiiynig
ml ill tliH liuiid —
tin;,', and lii-wiug
to the ;^iin;,'\vayH
%vli('(Os, iiiiil wo
rs wt'ut tij) from
;,'i'iitly iVtJiu tho
il : tilt" " l)att(!ry
»', to niK'lior. It
'• Oiitsidt;" wo
11. \Vc must lie
Our passengers
>ver lieeii to sea
nst a full-hlown
evening tiie two
ani)iagne-i)arty of
rell to ono of our
'ere alone on the
ottoni. And (nit
Il vong(!ance.
)r]irayer meeting,
■sion might hav€»,
the niiiirejudiceu
,'e in such frivoli-
Vauie of mind wo
t any tiling more
t the sea ; and in
f the waves, and
traminilly out of
IV ami
(>' H A P 'J^ E II ill.
A
i.i. day tSnndav at anchor. TIk" storm had
gone down a irrout
leal, hut the sea had not. It was still |>iling its frothv hills
liigh in air " initside," as we eon Id plainly see with the ghi.ssos.' Wo
emild not pioperly iie.gin a jdeasure e.xeur.siun on Sunday ; we could not
ollVr untried stomachs to so [litih'ss a sea as that. W(i iiuist lie still till
Monday. And we did. I5ut we had repetitions of church and prayer-
meetings ; and so. of course, we were Just as eligihly situated as'
c:jiild have iieen anv where.
we
1 was up early llmt Sahliath morning, and
felt a perfectly natuial desire to have a irood. 1
Mas earlv to Incakfast.
the jia.ssenger.-;, at a time v.lien the\- shouhlhe free f
ong. unjirejudiced look at
-which is at hrcaUfj
human lieiugs at all.
rom self-consciousness
IS., wlien such a iiionieTit occtns in the lives of
I v.iis greatly sui'prised to sec so many cdderly jieople— I mi-ht almost
sav, so manv veuerahh
peo])l(>
A trl
ipt to make one think it was all •'v,
nice a
ttl
toicral)ly fair ;;prinkliiig of young folks, and another f
gentlemen and ladies wlio were noi
actually old or ahsolutelv vouiii,'.
le long lines ot heads was
lei-o Mas il
y. I'.ut it was not. Tl
i-committal as ti
lir sprinkling of
heiii
th
neitlier
Tl
iieat ha])pim.',ss to get aM'ay. aftei- this dr
le next morning, mv weighed anchor and M-ent to sea. It
Mas a
thdiight there never was such uhid
igging, disjiiritiug delav
tl
le sun. such heautv in tho sea. I
Milh ail its helongiugs. All my mal
Mie : and as America faded out of sitrht , I thinl
ness iiitlie air Ix fore, such hrightne.s.s in
M as satislied M-ith the pic-nic,'then, and
'icious instincts Mere dead M-itliin
ip in their place that Mas as lioun
ocean tliat was heaving its liilloMs about
a sjiirit of charity rose
ss, for tlie time lieing, as tlu/broiul
feelings— I M'ishcd to lift mv
voice and sing : but I did
I wished to express mv
thing to .sing, and so I Mas obliged to give ui» the id
to the .shiit though, perhaps
not know any
Tt wi
s no loss
Tt wa:i breezy and jtleasant. Imt the .sc
1 was s
til
could not promenade without risking 1
sprit was taking a deadly aim at tlii- sun in mid-1
It Mas trying to Jiarpoon a shaik in the bottom oft]
^•eird sensation it i.s to fuel th
1 ^ely vougli. One
ns neck ; at one moment the bow-
lieaven, and at the jiext
a
10 ocean. ^VIlat
luuler
you and see the boM- climbin • hi<di
tern of a sJiip sinking .SM'iftlv f
.v,-av amo]
ig the clouds '. O
roni
ne's
•^11 ..
«■ Vimil |,M |()\ AMu.Ni. TIfK P^rttlAI'l 11^.
Httlipst . MI-M-, tl II-. (lav. N. to i;tiis|. ,i riiliii^. ,,11,1 h-.nvx uu : WiilkiiK' wnis
§llt» yvecunom a |mstiinc.
ih ^')f)H- liapi-v fui-tiiu',- I Wi.s iiol m;^ -i.-k. Tii.it was ,1 tl.iliu ll. I,c
|»rmul./f ^ Im.l (lot always fsnti.cl )m-„ ••. If tluT- i.s ni„. tliiii;{ in
tlM- world tl.ait will iMiiki'iiiiiiui iKruIiai-lyainl iiisulItriiMv Hclt'-coiia.Ttc.l
It r-. t.) hnvi- Iiis ..;t()iaucl. l..'Imv,. it.-u'lf. tlic tiirt .lav at wa, wlicii iirarlv
all_ Ins comrades a:v .s..a;sirk. Soon, a vrumil.i,. fossil, sjaiwlcl to t!a'
'•Inn an>l luiala-vj like a iiMiiamy. a|.!!«mir,l at fli.' door <.f tli.- after
(i.rk lions,., and ili- m-xt imr), of i!,. ;d,ij, sl,„, 1,;,,, i„t„ i,iv anus, 1
hiiid :
'•(iuod iiioniiiij^', Sir. It is a tine day."
ire put liis liaiid on Idis stouiaidi and "said, •• ()/,, u\v '." mv.[ tlini sta'.--
gcred away and I'cll ovci- the ei)o[> of a skydi^lil.
IVes!Mit!y another ,)!,I o;,.,^];,,,,,.,, mms '|.ioi«'^'t<'d (V,.ni the saiiu^ .h,or.
with yreat violem-e. I ••mid :
" Cnhu yoni> 'If, Sir--Tiiere i.^ no hurr\. It is a iin.. ,1,-iv. Sir."
He. ntsn, put ills hand on his stomaeh and said " (j/i, niv':'' and reeled
uw'.iy.
In a little while another vet, ran was di:sdiar;,'ed ahiuptiv from the
same (hior, elawiu;.; at tlifi air for a savin;,' supjjort.' J said :
"(.ioud murniny. Sir. It is a lino davN'oi- pleasuring. You were
about to .sa\' — "
" o/i, iiiv ;"
I thounlit SO. I .inticipated ///„/, any how. I staid there and was
bombanled witli oM ^'ontlem.-n for an liour jrrhaps ; r.nd all f -'ot .ait of
Huy of tliem wax " O/i, my :" ''
I M-eut away, thon, in a tliou-htfui moixl. I said, this is a ;;'ood plea-
sure excursion. ! like it. The passen-ers are not purulous, hut still
tJioy are soi-iable. I like tliose old ..•■opie. hut s-.meliov,- thcv all s.vm to
linve tlio "Oil, my" rather had.
I knew what was tlie matter ^nth tJiem. Thev were seai;ick V nd 1
was -Ia:l of it. We all like lo .see people seasick wlien we are not. oui-
selvc.;. Playin- whist l,y tlie cahlu lamps when it is storming' outside.
iH pleasant ; wa'.kui;,' tlie .juarter-deck in th.; iaoo!i!i',']it, is plea.siuit ■
smokmy m t!ie breezy fur.>top is pleasant, wlien one U not afiv.i.l to •;o
up there ; but tlu^sf. are all feeble and cr.'monplaci; compared wih I-
,.W of s-t'in;,' peaple snirorinj,' the miseries of .seasickness,
_ I iiicked u[) a ;,'ood .leal of infoi'inat'on diirim,' th" afternoon. At oi'-
time T was climlan..^ up the .p!avter-de>-k wh.Mi the ve-ud's stern was in
the sky; I v.'ifs smokin- a ci-ar and fec^Iin- passaldv comfortable.
Somobod;, eiacnlated :
"Come, ..w, t/!nf v.ou't answ. r. Kead the si-n ui. there— -No sMo-
It was Ca
>'iuei.., chief of tlie exijodition. I went forward, .jf
course. I .ji,\r n .on.;, .^jn'-i'la.ss lyinf on a d
state-rooms '>
sb
• iji 111 the uintanct.
he j)iloNh
.uid ivached aft
-: in one ..f the \i{>per-deck
'V It — tilere w
;is a
..'I
; wiilkiiijuf was
I fiiin.;' In lir
one tllill;;- i!l
.S('ll'-tM)lR'(»it('il,
1, wlicu iH'iirlv
liiiwlcd to the
or of tin' lifter
) iiiv jiniis. I
mill tlit'ii stiiL;-
H' SillllC (Iniir.
IV, Sir."
":" iin.l r<rlc.l
]>tly from tin-
You wci'f
tlliTC iilld VMS
1! r <.(t)t out of
s :i ;;'oo(l ))loa-
iloUH, hut still
cy iill s:(vm to
iiick. ,\.uil 1
' iire not, oui'-
inini,' outside,
is ]i](^:isjuit ;
it afiMiil to pfo
iirt'd •vv! ^ 7''
ooa. Al Olio
stern •wns in
comfortiilile.
^
TJi.vx.s(im.:,ssi.N(. lui: !,aw>. .>-
" All, all- liaiid.^ off ; ( 'ome out ttf tliut '."
I eaiue oul of timt. I said to a ded<-s\vee|.-- l.ut in a low voiee •
;• Who is tliiit ov. 1-rown pirate u ill, the whisU. rs and the .;i...r,M'dant
Volee (
'• It's ('a|.t. r.ursley • e\eeutive ollieer sailini,' master "
I h.itm-d about awhile, and then, for v,.nt of:, thin- h, ti.r (.. do
t.;ll to oarsn.;;- a railm- with aiy knife. Snuie'.udv said, in an insinra-
tni!.. iKliMom'n:"- void' :
••Xou ,y.f//.-niy friend don't ynii hno.v anv h.tt.r iImm to l,e uhii
tlin^tla' .iiil'.'dl lo pares that wa. / )■„„ nn-hr to jcuow l.ett.r tiiau
I went Imik and fomifl the d-uK-swi , p.
dotlal'r ''^ ^""' ""'•""*''''■''"''''' "'ii"i.ind outra-c yonder in tin' line
'•That's ('apt, L*^***. ,h,. invner of ilHship he's .n.e „r the uwdn
Douses,
In the eours<. of time I l„,.„;;!it „|, ou the stari.oard side of the ,,1|,,:
house, and ound a ^-xtant lyi,.;,. „„ „ i.,,,,],. x„„, j ,,,;,, f,,.,^. ..' ,
the sun tinouy,. this thin-; 1 should think \ .ni.rht see that vessel
hrou,h ,t I ha, h.rdly ,ot it to n.y eye Mheu some one toiu-hed ,,: '•
on tlie slaailder and said, deprec'iitin;i;lv :
•• I'll h; vu to -«.t yon to -ive tTiat to n,e. Sir. If there's anv thin.-
you. i.- to a,ow ahont takin, the sun. I'd as soon tell vou" '^
M t d.m t ,ke to nust any l.ody ^vith that instnunent. If you v,-.a,l
Jtny li-urin,!,' doiu- Avo-ave Sir'"
ac^'wei;!^™'' '" """"■ '" ^"" ''■"" '•'" ^'''"■'' ^''^"' ^ «-''^'^^ ^1-
coinuJ^itnir'"' ^•''''"^-^^-^■^' "'"■"■'' y'--- -i^^' the sanetin.onio.,.
i {{X!'"^VV.,'^""*'^' 'Sir— tlie ehief mate."
lo Do jou-now I ask you as a man and a i-rothei--,/,, von thinl- 1
tl.e'^^lu'!; ^ii L'Y'' ""T'^^ ''"'"i' ••'^'~'>' ^■'*"'"' ^'-•'' *''^ ^''^I't^"'^ <'f
I \w' "^ ' ''';!"■■' '"■■^ "-^t"i"n"i; ri;^ht yonder in the wiv."
fivec ,f ^'^l^'^^^^^l-'atm^. and a licle downd.earted. I thomd-l if
fiu^ ook ean spoil a I.nnh. .hat may not rive captains do with a pl^i^.v
re — No SM<
it forward, of
e up[)er-deek
iiillH
■iji
'■'!
■;■'
111
•'*
c; ] I A P T E U I V .
7"''' liluwcd iilon;;- ln'avcly inv :\ wct-k or nuji'c, :nul witlioiit any
(.•uiitHct of jurisdiutioii aniou'^ tlic eiqitaiiis worth tucntiouing.
'I'hf [);is,-,en;;'i'rs soon liMrucd to a.cruiiiiiioilatc tlicinschcs to tljc'ii' new
circuiii.staii'jes, and liff in tlip sJiiji becaiiic nearly as s^'.stenuitically
iiiouotonouN ii« till' roi'.tinc of a b^irraL'k. I do not mean tliat it xN'as dull,
for it w,iH not (>ntiro!y so by any meanrs — br.t tlici'c wa.s a good deal of
saiAonoss ubunt it. As is tdway.s the fa.sliion at sea, tlie {lussengers
sliortlv b?gin to i.ick nn, sailor terms — a sign that thev were beginning
to feel at hoinc!. Half-j.ast six was no longei' half-jiast six to these
jiilgrinis from Xow !']ug!and, the South, and the IMississippi Valley, it
wa-; •' s.'ve'.i bells ;" eigjit, tvrelve and four o'clock were " eight Indls ;"
the ea;)i:iiii did not take tl'.e longitude at nine o'clock, but at " two bells."
^hey S'loke glibely of the '' ei'ter cabin." the " for'rard cal)!n," ''Port
'^iuid stiirbo.ird" and the " fo'castlc."
At seven bells the first gong rani; ; at eight thei'e was breakfast, for
.such as were not too seasick to e.\t it. After that all tlie well people walked
ar!ii-in-arin u[i and down the long ]irouK nade deck, enjoying the tiuo
s.tjuiiier UK)i-uings, a.nd th.> seasick onc^s crawled o;it and juvrpjKMl them-
selves \i[) in iho lee of tlic |)a>ld!e-buxeH and ate their dismal tea and toast,
and looked Avi-etched. Ki-o".u elevtii o'clock u.ntil luncheon, and fi'om
Ikincheou until dinner .•vl six in the evening, the enuiloymeuts and
amusenients were v.-ivious. Some reading was done ; raid much smoking
and s(\wing, though not by (he same ]Kirties : th;,'i-e wer(> the monsters of
the de;;p to lie looked afier and v.'ondei-ed at ; stra.ngi; ships had to Ih^
s?rntini/:;!d through ojiera-glasses, and sage decisions arrived at concerning
them ; and moi'e than that, every body tooic a personal interest in s.?eiug
that tliv' flag Y/as run up and politely dipped three times in respon.se to
tlie s dut(;.-i of those str.uig-.'rs : in tin,' smoking-room thei'e were always
].avties of gx'ntlemen playing euelire, draughts and dominoes, (^specially
do;iiino.'s. that delightfe.lly liai'ndess game ; and down on the main deck,
" for'rard'' --for'rard of the chiclTi^.i-coons a.nd the cattle — we had what
was ca, lied. " horse-bil!iai\i,s." Ilor.-; '-liilliard.s is a line gan.o. Tt .all'ords
good, active exercijie, hilarity, and e('nsuming excitement. Tt is a mix-
ture of " hoj)-scotch" a.nd a shuiHe board }>layed with a crutdi. .\ large
ho'p-scotch diagram is marked out on the deck with chalk, and each
You .-tand. oil' tliree or foui' stens. with some
compartment nmnl
lereii
THE " SYKAfiOdlK."
25)
(1 witliout any
til ruciitiouing.
(>s to tlioii' new
s^'.steiuiitically
liiit it \\;i,s (lull,
s a goml (leal of
the iiiissengers
wciv bp-nnnini;
>t six io tliosd
sijijji A'allpv. it
" oio-lit l,.ofls ;"
at "tv.-()l)i-lls."
ciiliin," " Port
;r; lireakfast, for
II jioo[)le walked
loving the fine
jiro'jjjicul them-
iil tea and toast,
looii, ami fi'oni
nlovr.KMit;; and
nnicli sjiiuking
the monsters of
shins had to l)e
i.
id at eoue;n'nin<(
tt(M('st in s.?eing
s in I'esjionse to
re Nvcn-e always
iioos, espeeially
tlie. initin deck,
i — we. liad what
,n.o. Tt alibrds
Tt is a luix-
'•iit"h. A large
lialk. and ea.eh
s'ls, with some
broad wooden disks before yon on the ileek. and these von S(>nd forward
with a vigorons thrust of a long ointch. If a disk stops on a chalk line.
it does not count any thing. Tf it stops in division Xo. 7, it counts 7 ■
in "), it coiuits n, and so on. The game is 100, and four can ])lav at a'
time. The game would be very simple, played on a stationary Hoor, but
with lis. to play it well reijuired science. We had to allow for the
reeling of the ship to the right or the left. Very often one made calcu-
lations for a heel to the right and the slap did not go that wav. The
conse<iuence was that that disk missed the whole hoj^scotch plan a yard
or two, and then there was humiliation on one side and la-ighter on the
other. "
AVhcn it rained the jiassengers had to stay in the house, of coui-se— or
at least the cabins -and amuse thems(dAes with gaines, reailing, lookin"
ont^of J:he windows at the very familiar billows, and talking gossii). "
By 7 o'clock in the evening, dinnei' was a))out over ; an hour's ])rome-
uade on the upper deck followed ; then the gong sounded and a lar.re
majority of the party repaired to the after cabin (npper) a hand.some
.saloon of fifty or sixty feet long, for prayers. The unregenerated called
this saloon the '' .synagogutj." The devotions consi.sted only of two
hymns from the '• Plymouth (,'oll(M;tion," and a short prayer, ai'id seldom
occupie.l more than fifteen minutes. The liynms were accompanied by
parlor organ music when the sea was smooth enough to allow a performer
to sit at the instrument without being lashed to the chair.
After prayers the Synagogue shorfly took the semblance of a writin<^-
school. T]ie like of that picture was never seen in a ship before Behind
tlie long dining-tables on either side of the saloon, and scattered from
one end to the other of the latter, some twenty or thirty gentlemen and
adies sat them down under the swaying lamps, and for two or three
hours wrote diligently in their journals. Alas: that journals so
vohujunonsly begun should come to so lame and impotent a conclusion hs
most of them did ! 1 doubt if there is a single pilgrim of all that host
but can show a hundred fair pages of journal concerning the first twenty
days voyage in the QnaUr VH,, .• and I am morally certain that not ten
of the party can show twenty pages of joui-nal for tlie succee<ling twenty
thousand miles of voyaging \ At certain periods it becomes the .learest
ambition of a man to keep a faithful record of his performances ina
book ; and he <la>ilies at this work with an enthusia.sm that imposes on
hini the notion that keeping a journal is the veriest pa.sfime in the worM
and the pleasante.st. J'.ut if he <.nly lives twenty-one days, he will Hn.l
out t^iat only those rare natures that are made up of pluck, endurance
devotion to duty for duty s sake, and invincible determination, may ho„;
to venture upon so tremendous an enterprise as the keeping of a journ d
and not su.stain a shameful defeat. ''
head ful of good sense, and a pair of legs that were a wonder to look
uiK)n m the way of length, and straightness, and slimness, u.sed to rei-ort
progress every mormng ui the most glowing and spirited way, and say •
:u)
.JACK S '• JOIKXAI,,
'•01,, I'm
bavipioi' inooc
know [ w)'i)t<
k)-I
niu"
Wliv it's or.lv fun
uloii.;' bully :" (ho v.as a littl(^ given to .slang, in liis
wi'ot;' ton jiagc; in uiy Journal last night — and you
:li;) .night Icfoiv, ami twolv the niglit liffore that.
What do you tiud to put in it. Jack
Oh, pvorvthing. Latitude
au'
longitudo, noon overv day
dl
UHl JlOW
iii-my iiiilos w(! iu;>il« la.st tv/cnty-fnur hours ; and all tlu^ doiuino-"'ame.s
1 b^at
tlio to,
iind t
and hoi'.s.L'-bitliard.s
: of tho Honnon, Suudav:
Hi Vila
dl
lllDS WO
UtO!
and .sharks, and. jioipoi.sos ; and
that'll tell at homo, you know,)
wu
1 what n.ition thov w
no wuKt \Vi
iUl
1 whothor tlio
UKl v»-lncii V.'
■0 wa^
heavy sea, and what s;iil ->
'ly
vo oai'-
od, tho.igli we don't ever carry on//, principally, going agr.inst a lie;ul
wind alv.'a",
-wonder what is the reason vi that ?
am
?d()uli has told — Oil, every thing
lather tuld me to keep that joui'ii
dollar,* for it when I .wt it done.''
Uow^ man'
les
1
My
Father wouldn't take a thousand
T\e got every tl
ang down
Xo, Jack ; it Mdll bo woi't'i more than a tliousojid dollars — wl
leu
vou "'ot it done
D
vou
?
lo, but do vou think it will.
liiouii'n !
.&
It v,-i
!! 1
)0 V.'O
rth at
vou
•fc it d(
)ne.
M.iV b
Vrdl, T ab;)ut think
'. mor
so, m\
ist
a.
\s mucii as a thousand dollars — wJieu
I
t am c ill/
But it shoi'cly 1
jiiglit in Paris, afi
of a jourird
leoame a most laiupiitaiilo
ilOUC
aicn oi a lounial
I )lU'
a Ju
■d d'
IV s toil in sight-seeinu'. I said
^ (;w
I'll -o r.nd stroll
u'(ain
th(
cat
av.ii
I,
Ji
and
nve VOU a
Cll 1.11'.
to v.-rirci up your journal, old
His countrnanco lost its iire. Ifi
'• W
fell
ov.-
mor.
1!, no, vera iioodn't mind. I think I won't run that jou-;ud any
It
a\i
•fu! t.v.l
lOU
four thousand
First I thought I'd lea/.
do, iroii.lJ it I '\
tl
Do vou know — I reckon I':
iS mucJi a,s
hind hand. I haven't got anv France in it at all.
F
ranee on
an
1 start fresh, i
He ''ovornor won
Id
)Ut tiiat Avouldi
I't
sav,
Helh
nng ill i'ranc
('
n
'Id', oat won
hlu't ii .lit, vou k
noAV.
['1
(I CO
.y 1'
rauco ou!:
th
— umn t soe any
First I tlumdit
lidedjook, like old B.idgev in the for'ranl
nni w
h.o's vrriting n book, but tliere's more tliau three hundred pages
fit. Oh, / don't think a journars a;iv use — do von? Tliev're only a
liotlier, aiiL 1 tiiey
Yes, a journal that is iucomidete isn't of mu.eli use, but a jonriwl
propcirly kejit, is worth a. tliou.';and dollars, — when vou've got it d
one,
lill
A thousand I — well J sliould think so. / wouldn't tinisli it for a
nuiion.
H
.school
])uiushment ujurn a young per.son, pledge ium to keep a journal a j-
lerieuco was oiily the cxperionce tif the majority of that night-
the eal)in. If you v.i;-:h to inflict a heartle.ss and iiiali!j:naut
ear.
1 good lumy expedients were resorted to to keep tlie excursionists
niised and satistieci. .\. club was formed, of ail tlie ]i;issen"vi's, which
iiioi'^ in tlie writin-'-ficl
lOOi
tries we were iipproaehin
ifter prayeis and re.ul aloud about tl
le coiin-
snd disci
issed tlie information so obta.iued.
?{*.
^/S*'
i>a;n( ix(i rxKKi: DiKi'i' li/riK;-
;n
(> sliUlLf, ill Ills
iglit — iind you
it before that.
(lay ; and liow
(loiiiiiKj-games
i()!})()i;SPS ; iiiul
ic, yon know,)
ind wlik-h v.-ay
mt sail -ivc car-
a'^r.inst a lietul
liow many lies
ig down. Zsly
ko a thousand
<lollai's — wheit
dollars — when
a jouvinl."
oiu'iial." One
ml give you a
it joii-'iial any
'ni as ;uuc]) as
ce in it at all.
that M'ouldu't
didn't s^e any
irst I thought
in the for'i-anl
ir.ndred pages
riiey're only a
but a journal
••ot it done."
iiiish it for a
of that night-
iud malignant
rnal a year.
excursionists
engi»rs, -svliicli
)out the c')un-
) obtiiined.
N'vend tunes the {.horognipher of the expe.litiun l.Touvht ui-t his
jmu..i;areut jaetures an.! gav<. us a ],andsome magic lantern\:xhii;iUon'
His v,eu-s were nearly ail of l^nvign scenes, but the.v uere on,- or ulo
honw pictures among rhem. He advertised (hat he Nv<add ••....nhis
l"'Wormance ni the after eabiu at 'two bells.' (!),..„...) eud s],ow the
passengc-i^ were thev shall eventually .rrive-'-.-vhich w.:, all . erv wel^
but by a Aumy acadeutthe li,>,t pieiure ihat Ihunedout upon the Vanvas
was a view ol Ureenwood t'emeterv .'
On several starlight nights we \\,uvrd „„ th- ui>p,-r -l.c-k under the
:'^vnin;^S and nrule s.muahiug of a ball-n«,m .lisplsy of brilliancy by
Ijangiug a. numb;',-
if ship'rt hinterns to the staiiel
aneiuons.
c-onsisted of th<- well-mixe,] strains of a mehXon'wIdch
asthmatic ami „pr to catch its breath where it ou-ht to eonu
Our music
wa.s a little
cannetwhud. was a htcle unreliable on the Jngh kevs .n,l rath^^
Meancholyon the low one..; and a disreputable accordion th.t had a
eak somewhere and breathed lou.ler than it s.,awked- a more eh...,nt
.■nu does notocu-tomejnstiiow. HoM-ever, the.Unieiug was intinilely
.»-se tlain the music. When the ship rolled to starbo^-d tin. S
platomi of dancers came charuiug down the starboard with it, and lu-ou d t
•;i' HI mass at the rad : and when ic rolled to port, thev went lo „' H.^
down o port with the same unanimity of Jentiment. WaKV „
ni'ound precariously for a matter of ^iifteen s.>conds and tl^n ;S
sKuriwing down to the rail as if they meant to ,,o overboe, T^
\irgima reel as p<.rformed on board the Q.nhr T/.., 'ni nmre
. c Uto the speccatoras it was f.l! of desperate chances and hZ
l...Mdth esca,,cs o tlie participant. We ga^•e „;. daneiu:,, iinall
^\ e celebrated a lady's birthday ain,ivr.a-v' with tcr 't- S,i.h.
stealing an overcoat iVom state-room Xo. iO. i J,,,., ,,,, ::^,;JJI
also clerks, a crier of the court, consteib'es ■h.r'ri'— ,.,,;,-, :e 'A ^. " '
^:.i.„„„.„tulh<, ,m,l vi,„li,.tiv,.|v „^, -dv ;,f ,1, a.*,i«i.t,
iiiiished by
>v ti:e young
(lie iiute and the c!
^^■as of it. but
le clarinet
together, and made
P'layed the sure ol
'Oil music, too, what the
re
;\!3:e
It was a \-ery pretty
1
nil III
■!:llili!;
n
32
GHIMBLERS.
time — how well 1 reineinher it — I wonder when 1 shall over get rid of it.
We never played either the nielodeon or the organ, except at devotions
— but I am too fast ; young Albeit did know part of a tune— something
about "() Homething'-Or-Other How Sweet it Is to Know that he's his
What's-His-Naiiie," (I do not remend)er the exact title of it, but it was
very plaintive, and full of sentiment ;) Albert, played that pretty much
all the time, until we contracted with him to restrain himself TJut no-
bmly ever sang by moonlight on the upper deck, and the congregational
singing at church'aud prayers was not of a superior oi'der of architecture.
I put up with it as long as I could, and then joined in and tried to im-
prove it, lr)ut this encom-aged young George to join in too, and that made
a failure of it ; because George's voice was just " turning," and when he
was singing a dismal sort of base, it was apt to fly oti' the handle and
startle every body with a most discordant cackle on the ui)per notes.
George didn't kuo'w the tunes, either, which was also a di-awback to his
I)erformances. I said :
<' Come, now, George, dont improvise. It looks t(jo egotistical. It
will provoke i-emark. Just stick to ' Coronation,' like the others. It is
a good tune — i/o>' can't improve it any, just ott-hand in this way."
" Why I'm not trying to improve it — and I tnn singing like the othei-s
— just as it is in the notes."
And he honestly thought he was, too ; and so he had no one to blame
but himself when' his voice caught on the centre occasionally, and gave
him the lockjaw.
Tliere were those among the unregonerated who attributed the un-
ceasing liead-winds to our distressing choir music. There were .those
who said openly that it was taking chances enough to have such gliastly
music going on] even when it was at its best : and that to exaggerate the
crime by letting George helj), was simply Hying in the face of Providence.
The.se said that the choir would keep up their lacerating attemi)ts at
melody mitil they would bring down a stoi-m some day that woidd siuk
the shij).
Tliere were even grumblers at tlie prayers. The executi^e oiiicer sai'l
the Pilgrims had no charity.
" There thev are, down there every night at eight bells, praying for
fair winds — when they know as well as I do that this is the only ship
going east this time of the year, but there's a thousand coming west—
what's a fair wind for us is a hrad wind to them— the Almighty's l)low-
ing a fair wind for a thousand vessels, and this tribe wants him to turn
it 'clear around so lus to accommodate one, — and she a steam-ship at that :
It ain't good sense, it ain't good reason, it ain't good Christianity, it ain't
common human charity. Avast with such nonsense :"'
C H A P T i: K y
[•utive uiiiffi- sai'l
TAKIM, It " l,y nml la.-n-r.," as tlio sailors say. mo luul a pJoasaut ten
days run from ^cnv York to the Azores islands- not a fast run
for the distance is only twenty-four Innidred niilcs-l.ut a. ri-jit pleasuii
one. ni the main. True, we liad head winds all the time, "and several
stormy .>x]ieriences wliieh sent fifty per cent, of tlie passeno-ers to h -d
sick, and made the .sliip look dismal and deserte.l-stormv "cxperir-u-es
that all will remember who weathere.l tliem on the tumhlin-' deck 'muI
eaught the vast sheets of spray tliat every now and then .spran-- hi-h' iu
air from tlie weather how and swept tlie ship like a thunder-shower" hut
tor themost i)art v,e liad haluiy stnnmer weather, and ni-hts that'vMv
even liner than the days. We ha<l the phenomenon of a full mooii
locate<l.,nst ni the same spot in tlie heavens at the same hour every
nigiit. J],e reason of this sin-ular conduct on the i,art of the moon did
not occur to us at lirst, but it <lid afterward when we rejected that we
M-ere yauun- al)ont twenty minutes every dav, because wo were -oil/,
east so fast.-we game.] just about enouo-h every dav to keep alon.-.ith
the moon. It was l.ecoming an ol.l moon to tlH> friends we laid left
iHdund lis, but to us Joshuas it stood still in the san.e place, ai.d remained
always the same.
Young Mr. Binder who is from the Far West, an<l is on hi.-; first
voyage, was a good deal worried by tlie constantly changing "shin-time"
wher-'rri if ^t t "'^'^-''^ "* ^^■"*' '""^ "««it<,dr4. it out,, om tV
Avhen eight bells struck at noon, but he c.une to look .dter a while \Jf
he were losing confichmce in it. Seven days out from Xe^^• York he c'uVe
on deck, and said with great derision •
" Tiiis tiling's a swindle 1"
" What's a swndle 1"
" Vr\\ *'''", T''\'^'- ^ ''''"-''*^ '^"' ^"* "^ Illiiiois-yave >'1.5(» for her
-and I bought she .™s good. And, by George, she'/.v good on s Jo
but somehow she <lont keep up her lick here on the water-.vets seasl^:!k
.mty be. She skips ; she runs along vegidar enough till half>st e '-en
und hen all of a sudden, she lets .lown. I've set that old re,mlato '>
fusterand faster, till I've shoved it clear around, but it dmrt o 'u v
good: she just distances every watch in the ship, m.d clatters Ion ? in ^
way that's astonishing till it is noon, but then lUt bil" .|n.; >'."V^
about ten minutes ahead of her any way. I don't know what'tiTck; wi;i;
34
her
" LAND, HO
now. She's doing :ill slits can — she's going her best gait, but it
"vvou't Siive lier. Now, don't yon know, tliere ain't a watch in the ship
that's making })etter time than slie is : but what does it signify ( Wlieu
you lieai- tliem <!glit brjlls you'll tind her just about ten minutes short of
her score, sur(i."
The ship was gaining a full hour every three days, and this fellow was
trying to make his watch go fast enough to keep up to her. But, as he
had snid, he h 'il jaished the regulator uj) as far as it woidd go, and the
watch was '"on its best gait," and so nothing was left him but to fold
his liands and see the ship beat the race. Wo sent him to the captain,
Hud lie «'X[ilain{vl to him the mystery of " .ship-time," and .set his troubled
mind at i"est. This y(jung man asked a great man tpiestions about sea-
Hickness before we left, and wanted to know whnt its characteristics
were, and how he was to tell wlien lie had it. He found out.
We saw tlie usual sharks, blackfish, jjorpoises i^'c, of course, and by
itnd Jiy large schools of Portuguese men-of-war were added to the regidar
list of sea wonders. Honw, of them were white and some of a brilliant
carmine color. The nautilus is nothing but a transparent web of jelly, that
spreads itself to catch the >vind, and has flesliy-looking strings a foot or two
long dangling from it to keei) it steady in the water. It is an accom-
jdislied sailor, and has good sailor judgment. It reefs its sail when a
storm threatens or the wind blows pretty hard, and furls it entirely and
goe,s down when a gale blows. Ordinarily it keeps its sail wet and in
good sailing order, by turning over and dijiping it in the wnter for a mo-
ment. Seamen say the nautilus is only found in these waters between
the 2r)th and 4.'3th parallels of latitude.
At three o'clock on the morning of the 21st of J\iue, we were awakened
and notified that the Azores ishuids were in sight. I snid I did
not take any interest in islands at three o'clock in the morning. But
ajiother persecutor came, and then another and anotjier, an<l finally be-
lieving that the gcaieral enthusiasm would ])ermit no one to slumber in
peace, I got up and went sleepily on deck. It was live and a lialf o'clock
now, and a raw, blustering morning. The passengers were huddled
about the smoke-stacks and fortifieil behind ventilators, and all were
\ ra])ped in '.vintry costumes, and looking sleei)y and unhapp}' in the
])itiles:s gale ami drenching .spray.
The island in sight was Flores. It seemed only a mountain of mud
standing n}) out of the dull mists of the sea. But as we bora down njion
it, the sun came out and made it a beautiful iiicture — a mass of green
farms and meadows that swelled up to a lieiglit of fifteen hundred feet,
and mingled its ui)per outlines with the clouds. It Mas ribbed Avitli
sharp, steep ridges, and cloven with narrow canons, and here and there
on the heights, rocky upheavements shaped themselves into mimic liat-
tlements and castles ; and out of riftec clouds came broad shafts of sun-
light, that painted summit, and slojie, and glen, with bands of fire, and
left belts of sombre .shad«,' between. It was the aurora borealis of the
frozen pole exileil to sinnmer land !
' ON HHOKK.
■st gait, but it
tell in the ship
ignify / When
liiiutp.s short of
tliis fellow \vi(s
er. But, as he
ulil '^o, aud the
iiii hut to fold
to the captaiu,
Sethis troubled
:ious about sea-
characteristics
out.
course, and by
[I to the rej^ular
e of a brilliant
eb of jelly, that
iH a foot oi' two
It is an acconi-
its sail when a
it entii'ely and
vil wet aud in
rvater for a nio-
ivaters between
were awakened
I said I did
morning. But
md finally be-
) to slumber in
I a half o'clock
were huddled
i, and all were
diajipy in the
auitain of nnul
L)re down upon
mass of green
hundred feet,
s riltbed with
here and there
to mimic bat-
shafts of san-
ds of fire, and
borcali.s of the
an
VV.- »k,H«l a,„u„.l tw,>ll„,-,ls „f ,|„. i,,l,„„|, f„„, ,„i|j., ,. ,
ff^ov,., „f »-eeJ», „,. ,vl„,,l„.,. ,|„. „.l,!t,. 'vill„,,.» ,l„wn In- I," J *vor^
really vi l„ges or „„ly tl„. ol.,,t,.,i„j. l„,„l,»to,„.; „f „,„rt,.ri,r F„ I?
«... ».o„, ,„ »e„ ,„„l l« .-vay for «„„ Miguel ,f„r;,,„^'
«.on«a,„I inl,al,i,a„,». „» »„„„...,,;„. l!: J'' ;, t'''^^;™; " '™
mmmpssMm
<ler the walls of a 1 ttle fb t" n r">r^ ","^' '"""''■•^'- ^^^^' ^'""''^*' ""■
sion, be-gars Thev trooop, ft. ' "'stmct, education, mid profes-
in Fayaf did we %e Xf Sem "' W "'r !''"'^\"'"''' ^^''^ ^-^^^^^
principal street and The^ \^L h ,'T"''*^ "1' *''^* "''^''"« "^ ^^e
;.pon L ; .ud jv:;:;; >«;::x ;r:;::^z^i:;: nil S's^' '"-^ ^''-'
t<> get a jiood look l.iu.L- ;„ ^. ..V ', '^ *"^"*^"*' ''**''<? pi"cces.sion
flatte
and there in the d
trip from street to street, " It
nng to ,ne to be part of the material for sucl
loorwavs we sijw w
Was very
1 a sensation. Here
■omen, with fashionable Portuguese
fi
3(5
lioixlf
A DISASTHOrS BAXQIKT.
,s on.
Tliis liood is of thick l.lue doth, attadied to a doak
fm-al.n,ad, and is nnfathon.ablv d.-e ,• It Hts it v ' '"'V''''^'"
wo.a..s head is f idd.u a.vay in it l/ko th^ .Iwl..; .. ^.^^r ^ll ll:
fron. Ins tni shod m the sta^^e of an opera. There is no ..article of trim
.m«, about tins nioustrons rapot., as they call it--it'i ,' t , M.^
ugly dea.M, no n. ass of sail, and a woman can't go within ei 1 t p i ts "f
the wind With one of thenx on ; she has to go hrfore the wh»^^ ir ^t at
al . Ihe general ^yle of the capote is tho same in all the sla^uls ,u
will veni.ui .so for the n(;xt ten thousand years Init oid. is).,,. 1 T 1
<^U. jnst ono.,,h dit.n.ntly frou. tl^^othel^t eie'b ;;:."!;
tell at a glance wliidi particular island a lady hails from
T=t.z Si :;; -Biuc^ :!ti ^i;: -^^ f --i 7'-" ^^;:!
to ho on solid land once more ,t^^' . ^,;:! ^^ '^l^H'^^J ^'''^t^''
had h...nl it was a cheap land, and lie was .on, 1 otw^^^i^^J
bancp.et He invited nine of us, and we ate an exce lent i ne^S' he
pnneiiial hotel. In the nii.lst of the jollity i.ro.lnce W ,
good wine, and passable anecdotes, the lanil;;.!d 1-^"^^ h 'bij; I^S
glanced at it r.n.l his countenance fell. He took a ot le In l" , '"'^'^»
himself that his senses had not deceived hm ad t en t) ./' T"''
aloud^n a filtering voice, while the ro:.s il! In^ dlil^;^;;,;-;! t:^
Ten dinners, at GOO veis, 0,000 reis '.' Rnin and .lesolation '" '
Tvventy-hve cigar;^ at 100 reis, ±500 reis" Oh
niotlier ! '
^^^'JJ Eleven bottles of u-ine, at 1,:>00 r;.is, l;?,O00 reis I'
"'Total, twentv-oxe thoi-sand sevkx hcxdufd hfis " Ti.^ ,
-leave me to my misery, boys, I am a ruined communijy "
I think ,t was the blankest lookiiis-. party I ever s'lw " K,. l -,,i 1 1
fearful silence was broken The sh'ulow ,A' .. i„ "'^"f f* ''^•^* *"«
m blood before I'll pay a cent more." ' " "^ " •'''''"*
Our .spirits rose and the landlord's fell— it leist we t],nn,vi f i
my sainted
Be with us
The snfier-
Go
THi: UAl'I'V UKSIM'. _o-
lit (linneiH. fijuiOn-Ls, or «,. .,,
-'•"i ngMr.s •-', :>i)0 I eis, or. , . %' V
• H I'ottl.'H win,.. ]:{,t.oo ,.,is, .M'.'. .'.'.,'.',■■■■■■■■'.'.■ ■.',';.■■ 1^ ii
Tot;il, -JljOi) icis, or i^TTu
us
I
^
c n A r T E j{ VI.
T THINK tlu- AzuivH must l)p yevy little ku..wu in Auwrim. Out of
1_ ourwliul,. ships c-omoanytl.civ was net i. soiiturv individual who
l:new any tlnn- whatcv-.T al.i.ut th,-n.. Sonic of tho party, well road
coucvrmn- ,„.,st other lauds, had no other iufornmtion Mbo-t tlie Azores
t.ian that they were a -roup of nine or ten small islands far (ait in the
A antic someth.n,^ ,uo,e than half way Letweeu New York and (iih-
laitar. I hat was all. I he considerations move me to put in a para-rai.h
ot dry tact.-i just here. i p i
The community is eminently Portuguese— that is to say, it is slow
poor shiftless, sleepy, and lazy. There is a ciyil f(overnor,Mppointed b;
the King of Portugal ; and also a military governor, who t'lu assume
«iprenio control and siLsjumd tlie civil government at his j.leasui - The
islands contain a j.opulation of al.out liOO.dOO, almo.st entirely Portu-
.gue.se. P.very thing is stai.l and settled, for the cmnti- was one hun-
dred year.s old when t^oluml.us tliscovered America. The principal cro,>
iH corn and they raise it and grind it just as their great-great-reat-
thelrSf'^ rni V'"' '''"'' V''' " ''"'"'•^ ^^ghtly ^hod ^ith ?::;?;
n^ s Ti ' '""'T' ''■' •''■"^™ ''>' ""^" '""l^vomen; small wimU
tench!nr f ?:; ■ *'^" '^'^^'f'^ '' ^'"y- -»1 there is one assistant super-
ntendent to feed the mill, and a general superintendent to stand by and
keep him from going to sleep. When the wind changes they hitch on
nnS It" ? '""•.'•^^"""y *"'■» tJ'<^ ^vlK.le upper half 'of the mill around
until the sails are in proj.er position, instea.] of fixing the concern so that
t le i : .'f*; .1 ' r:^'^ '''''"i ^^" '^'^ •"^"- <*-^^" '^^^ «"^ ^-l^^'^* from
tilt (,,u , after tlie fashion ])revalent in tho time of .Arethu.selah. There is
Tdoul ev' '™'' "' '\' ^TV'!''^' '""'^ everything on their heads, or
n donke.vs, or ,n a wicker-hodied cart, who.se Nvheels are solid blocks of
low in the IS ands, or a threshing-machine. All attempts to introduce
S ved r", f '^1 • n", ^""i ^'^'^"'^^^ ^"-^"'"^^^ "-«-! himself and
1:7 f- ; ! ^^ vl^f^i '""^ ^™'» ^'" bhusphemous desire to know moi^
than his father did before him. The climate is mild ; tliey never have
snow or ice, and I saw no chimneys in the town. The donkeys and tJie
men women and children of a family, all eat and sleep hftirsail"
room and are unclean, are nuaged by vermin, and are truly hap,,y.
The people lie, and cheat the stranger, and.are desperately ignorant, \!rfd
THK « ATHKDHAI-.
30
ffl!l I7rlr '"^'T'' ^r *''"'■• '''"^''- 'i'l'" ''^tt«r tn,it shows h-.Nvr
f..m.lu..s n. . .I.-suit pncsts, a.ul tl.u soMi..,H^ of tl.c littl." ..imsou Tl o
wa^oH of a lahoror are twenty to twc.ty-four cvnts a .lav.Tuult s. of
t. h ,I..I1.,., a n.l t ws ,nak...s tla-ni rich and ....MtrM.to.l. Fiu,, .n':m..s
us, I to fr,mv on ho ishuuls. an.l an oxcllc-nt win. was n.a.l.. an.l Xmt.^
Hut a disoas.. k.il.-l all th. vin.. Hft.-n v.ars a^o, an, si ie |^ .j
no wna. has 1...... n.a.l... The islands iH.in-^ whcllv .f v.Jkovt^Z
u. on, and txNo or thrc. c-rops a y.'ar of ..ach aitido aro prodi.cf.l but
^n "t" ''^'n' r" " ^- -'"^'— )'-«y to En,hlnd NohX
. tl m.st font ,s a passion o.p.ally unknown. A Portn^^n.vso of av.M n^o
V 1. I old hnn ,t was-or at least it ran in his n.ind that son .,'l.o.ly
l.ad told an, souH-tlnn,. liko that! And whon a, passen^.-r .,avo , m
othcor of tho .arrison copios of the TriO..., tJ.o J/crak an/F 7v" .V I
:^::i:-:;riT /" n';l '^*"';ir •" *'"^"'*'™'> LisiK,n;hanhoh;;;rv
c-vb e H« . ",' r '""''*'•'" f '•""'^'■- "" ''■■'' <"''• that it eanu, by
cable He san he ku.w they had tidied to lav u. cable ten years n"o
l.ut .t had neen ni his nund, somehow, that they hadn't succeeded ' '
_ It IS ni communities likr, this that Jesuit hun,l.u--erv tlourislu-s W«
a nl^e ^/^^"'^ ^'^^^^f-' ^^^^^Y t-o hundred yea.rold, and aI;;:! i,"^
aspohshedandhar.1 an.l m as excellent a state ..f i-reservation a,s if
the dr,;a(l traoe.l>- on ('alvary had occurred yeste.-day instead of ei.d.teeu
zi::>z^::Sy- """'"" •""''' '"'"^" ^^ ""' '•""' ''^^^"^''
III a chapel of the cathedral is an altar with facin-s of solid silv,. -at
east they call it so, ami I think myself it would go a couple of hundre,!
to he ton (to sp..ik after the fashion of the silve.^niners, an.l before it
s kej.t forever burning a small lam,,. A devout lady who .lied, left
money and ....ntracted for unliinite,l masses for the repos^ of her soul ami
ah^ st,i>u ated tlmt this lamp should be kept lighLl always, day' an
night, hhe aid all this before she died, you understand, h is -I ,,.,y
Hinall lamp and a very dim one, and it could not work her much
damage, I think, if it went out altogether.
The great alt«r of the cathedral, an.l also three or four minor ones arc
a pei-fect mass of gilt gimcracks and gingerbread. And 1 ey S-e
swarm of rusty, dusty, battered apostles Standing around t^he ii.'..;
work some with one leg, and some iith one eye ol.t, but a g mey t^^
m the other, and some with two or three finger.; gone, iiul some w^l. m t
enough nose left to blow-all of them crippl.;?! and discouraged^ d ^tt",'
subjects for the hospital than the cathedral.
.Ui
II
40
TIIK r.VTASTROl'HK.
n.c ^v.l s ot II... rlmiicvl „n- uf poiwlain, all i>uUm.l ^^n• with H-'ur,.,
•...Hlnnus o hn, n.n.nra.s a,.,. Tl si,,,, was ., Listo,. of..,,,..' I.
Ta.l'l '";'•■' " "■""■ "'r "'"" '"'"•"•"' """"."•' t'>V.-l,la St,..''-
n ... ohi at!..,. r,.,,..s.,.K ,„Hk.,- .. sin,.,. d..s,. I,y, .I.(,,| !,;,;,;, ,„i ,.. j,,^',.
fold iiM It 1,„ coaM l.av.. lis..,., |!„t )„. ,ii,;„'f
1 L lla-yoms,.st,.,I ot a so.-t of saw-l.,u.k, witl. ., slaall n.aft.vss i„ i^
.« I'l <lns fu,„.h.n. cov,.,.,.,l ah.a.t I.alf tl... ,Ioi.k,.v. Tlu....- w^v m
sti.Tups, I,„f, ,.<;a]h. sud. M,,.,,u,t w,.,... ,.„t ,.,...,|,.,| :,o ,.s. Kud. a .s.ul.1 .
t u. noxt tl.in,, to ,.,.„„. a ,li,.,.,, tal,|.. tl....... was an.,.1,. sopjlo
i. 1.,'.';,'? ;••'''•''''• .'^ 1"'"'^ of ''.^^'...1 I'o,.tu.u..M.' ,aul.V..,.s
...val>t> to tl.o stn.j.o..... i\n- tl... ...a.^kri ,.,in. is .sixt..,. .....ts. Half a
In .•■M.f us ,nonnt..,l t|,.. ,„,..i,.lv Mhnr., ami .sul.a.ith.l <:,. tl..- i,..li.n. t !
o nt:^:, 1 on r- v'i'-f '^'" '^' ""■^'^'"■^ ^'"•""-'" ^'"' i-'-i-i ^^••••^
oi a town ot lO.OOO uilialiitai.ts.
\V. sta.t<..l, I, was nut a tn.t, a »allo,,, .„. a cant...., la.t a sta>..,,...l..
n ,..a, ,. „,, „t Mil i,u.ss. ,le or c.o,u..,.ival.l. .-aits. No spais w..,.,- „' ..-ol:
sai . IlH....._svas a nu.loteor to ..very .l.)„k..y, a.al a do/...,, voIu„t..ers
-.Md..s, a,.d tU.y lM..,v,l tl... ,l,.,.k,.ys with th.-i.. Koa.I-sticks, ..n.l ,,rick.',l
.... with .,>„. s,.k,.s, and sl.o.,t...l son.othin,, that ^.a.n.l.Vl lik
1 to tinK.--th..y can on n>n and .a.tlast a <l.,nk..v. Alto;,..tl.:.r ca.Vs
^mirsJl!!"''''''^''' 1""T"'""' '""' '''■'■^^' ^■'•o^^<l«laudieno..stot]...I.al-
tomes wLcicA'ci' wo w..i.t.
Blncher c..nld .k. notl.in- with his ,!„nk..y. TI... l>,..st scamn(^..o.l
/i^o:;... ae,..)ss tla, .-.rad, .uid the otlu rs ran int.> hi.n ; 1.., sera,)ed Jil icla.r
j.«mnst carts and the corno.-s of hons.-s ; the ....a. was tVn -^1 wHl
hi^. st.,ne walls and tl.., .l.a.k..y gave hin. a polisl.in, ti..st ^ . e^ ^
md th..n on he ..the.., l.nt never once took the nu.l.Ue ; he ti,.allv ca e
to tl.. honse he was horn ,n, and .lai'te.! into the parha-, scrani,... ]!„..' ■
fell. I <''";,''^1': yon know; y.n, go sl.,w hereafter." But the
>SeJ,t->i„l,.' and the .l.ji.kev was oix again like a shot He t„V,.r.,l ,
corner snddenly, an.l Bind... went over his head. A^^^ to ^^.^^^ d^
111 n lieap. ^o ham. done. A fall fr„ni on,- of those .lonkevH is of lit le
Hfter tl e c.atastroph.-, an.l waited fo.- thei,- .lisine„.lxu.e,l sad.lles to l.e
K hod np an,I pnt o.i by the noisy nudeteers. Bh.cher M-as p.^t
2r,l I' r"V '" 'T''J'^ ---^T time he opened his n.onth hL
^ . I dul s., als.,, au.l let ofi" a series of hrays that .l.^owncl all othe,-
NV AHi.Mi Arroi \|>.
41
Tt wa.s iim. .skiiiTvmi,' ni.-uinl the hiv/.v liilK,,,!.! thn.iiyl, tli.. LnnitiCil
canoiiM. Ihnv was that urn- thiun, umr\u , ,.l,u„t it; it VMt« a (Vrsli
new, .-A h,ln:,tin« H..„sati.m. this .lunkry ri.lino, ...hI woHI. a Inm.lrni
worn and tln»'a(ll)ar<' huuw iiU'aMiiicH.
Thf. muls W..1V a wond.-r, aial ^^vl\ tla^v ini;;'lit 1,,.. llnvwasan
islaial witl. only a lunalful of ,,eo|.!,. in it-- 2r,.(M)0- ..n.l vet m.oI. Hm.-
i-uadH .1.. not exist in tl.r Tnit...! Stat.s, ..nisi.lr ('ciitial I'aii- Kvnv
wIi.Mc \mi -o. m any diivrtion, y.ai lin.l ntLrr a liai.l, Mia.otl. If v,".|
lHmM,!,'l.fair, just spriniiini with Mark lava .saii.I. an.l l.onl. n ,i\vitl.
I.ttl. ;;utt,T.s lu-atly ,my..,l uitl. Muoth ,,. 1,1,1,.... or n„M,,aHlv ,.av...l
ones liko Umulway. Tl,..y talk nn.rl. of tho Un.ss y.ynLni ' in N.s^
\i>yk, au.l .■all It a m-w inv<.nti..n--yt.t hm' thov l.avo l.,.fn nsin-r it in
tins niiaut.- I.ttlr i.slc ot the sea for tw(. JmiHlrc..! vrais ' Ksn v stivrt
ni Hoita IS lianclsonK-ly |,ave(l with heavy l{uss Klerks. an,l tla' suifaee
IS neat an.l tn... as a floor not n.arre.l l.y huhs like l]n,a.lwav \i„l
VMTV roa. is te,Ke.l in l.y tall, solid lava walls, which will last a ihon.saud
years 111 this land where frost i.s unknown. Thev are verv thiek and
are often plastered aial whif-washed, aiul ea|.,.ed with l-rojeotiiiK ;.lal.s of
n.t stone. 1 re,.s horn gardens al.ove hai.^^ th.'ir ,swavinn.'t,.n<lrils down,
and contrast la^ir l,ri;^ht ^aeen with the whitewash or the l.laek lava of
the walls, and make tlu'ia henutlful. Tlu- trees and vines strelel. aeross
these narrow roadways sometimes, and .so shutout the sun that von seem
o ,e riding. throui,d. a tunnel. The pavements, the roads, "and the
hridn-es aiv all -government work.
The bridges are of a single span-- a single arch-„f cut stone, without
a support, and paved on top with Hags of lava and ornamental pel.l,]..
work. Lvery wh.Te are- walls, walls, wall.s.-and all of then, tasteful
an.l handsome- -ami ..ternally substantial; an.l everywhere are those
luarveious i-avements, .so n.-at, s.) smootJi, an.l ho inde;<tructil.le An.l if
ever roads and streets, an.l the .aitsi.les of hou.ses, were ,,erfeetlv free
^rk3 T *';7^''"''';"-" i:f •'•r> "■• 'l^'^t, or mu.l, or nndeanliness of
an> kuul, It IS Horta ,t is Fayal. Tlie lower clasnes of the ,,eople. in
their persons and their <lomu.i s, a.v not clean- l.ut there it stopsL ,,,
town and the i.sland are miracles of cleanliness
Iv^.^U}"'^ VT "^"'" ^"""r' ''^''' '•' *^"-'"''^' "^*^"'-«i"". 'i.Hl the
uicpiess .le nnileteer.s Hcamp..,vd at our heels through the main street
goa,h„g the donkeys,^l,oiiting the everlasting " Sekki-,./.;' ^n^^^
John Browns Bo.1/' m ruinous English. '^
Wlien we dismounted an.l it came to settling, the shouting an.l jawin.'
mid sweanng and .piarreling among the muleteers an.l with us T
earyMleaf..ning^ One fellow wonl.l demand a dollar an laau- f^r th^
use of his donkey; another claime.l half a dollar for priekii... him
i^>,anot]ier a .luarter for helping in that service, an.l about fb^.rtee
em 11 OILS and every vagrant of them was more vociferous, and more
vehement and more fnu.tic in gestiue than liis neighbor. VVe paid ox e
guide, and i,aid for one muleteer to eacli donkev
42
TIIK ISLAND I'K'O.
tJ^^TZ'Z::Ti^ "*■ ^''^ "''"''" r '-''-y •"°''- We sailed along
tm siiou, ot tlie LslaiKl Pico, under a stately ^vem pyramid that rose uu
^ h one unbroken sweej, from ourvery feet to an altitude of 7,0 Let
JUKI tla-ust Its sumnut above the white clouds like an island adrift Tn a
Az^-of io^; offt.sl.onjn,es, lemons, figs, aj.ricots, etc. in those
Office repLis! ^ "'' •''"^'- ^ ""' "«* ^'^^ ^" -"*« P'^tent-
(^H AFTER VII
A WEEK of bufietin,^ a teni].,..stuous and irloutloss sea • a wopt
tl.e .smoking i-ooni^it mX '^"''^^^^^^l^- l-erfornnng at donnnoes in
the
rusli of tlie seetliin"-
abroad once nuni all e tf^;"'^ ""•' '^ ^'T^"^' *" ''' "^^ *^'^ •'^J^il''« ^'^""ly
could onh ,tu^ loo !.^W1 ^"^'^'"'''', ''r'r^* "!•"" '"'"'y -""tenanco
flushed .<r i? w • . '"'"' •^r^'J-kled with },luiusure, i.allld clieeks
Hushed aga„, and fran)e,s weakened l.y .sickness g!tthered new life from
44
Tin: JUX.IC OF (illJUALTAIJ.
t he .nMckeniii- iu(I„,Mims of tlie l.rl-lit, fivsl, mui.iin- Ve... ,,,1,1 from •,
still mere potent iutluence, the .vor.i rastinvay.s w^re to see the l,h..sse,'|
an. Mj,.uii .-and to see it was to hrhio- hack that mother-hnul that was
111 all tJieir tJion^^-Jits.
Within the. ho,u' v.ew,.,v fairly within the Stir.its of Uihraitar, th*.
tall, ye low-splotehe,! lulls of Africa on our rio^l.t, with their hases veil,.,!
m a blue haze, and their summit swathed in eh.uds-tlio same Ir-in-.-
acconhng to Smi-ture, which says that " clou.ls and darkness is over tlie
and. Ik, ^,vorc s were sj)oken of this particular portion of Africa 1
beheye. On our loft were the ..ranite-ril.bcl .lomes of old Spain l^.e
Strait IS only thuteeii miles wide in its narrowest i)urt
At short inteiTals along the Spanish shore, were ,p>aint-lookin.- ohl
^tone towers-Moorish, we thought-da.t learned Ix'tter afterwards In
[rZ, rV * 'n ^'^"T" ^•"^^•■•^'^"«"» t" «''''-^t along the Spanish Main
111 then hoats, till a safe opportunity seemed to present itself, and then
^h,rt m and cap-trirea Spanish village, and carry off all the pretty women
tley couhl ind. It was a j.leasant business, and was Verv popuLir.
liie Spaniards built these watchtoMers on the hills to enable them to keen
ii sliari)er lookout on the :\roroccan Ki)eciilators.
The picture on the other liand M-as very beautiful to e\es wearv of the
ehS"' p"!' "!"! ^•'■' '""^ Z^'*^ *''" "^'^I'^ ^^^"'l"^"^' «^'^'^^ Avonderfiillv
cJie itul. Lut while we stood adnuring the cloud-capped peaks and th'e
lowlands robed m misty gloom, u finer picture burst upon us and chained
every eye like a magnet^-a stately ship, with can^•as piled on canvas till
she was one towering mass of bellying sail ! She came speedin-^ over
the sea like a great bird. Africa and Spain were forgotten. All homao-e
was for t le lieautiful stranger. While every bodv gazed, .she swe;t
superbly by, and flung the Stars and Stripes to the breeze I Quicker
than thought, hats and handkerchiefs flashed in the air. and a chel- went
"P . She was beautiful before-she was ■•adiant now. Manv a one on
our decks knew then for the first time how tame a sight his country's
flag is at home compared to what it is in a foreign land. To see it is^to
see a visum of home itself and all its idols, and would feel a thrill that
would stir a very river of sluggish blood :
We M-ere approaching the famed Pillars of Hercules, and already the
Af^^-ican oiie," Ape's Hill," a grand old mountain with summit streaked
with granite ledges, ^v,vs m sight. The other, the great Eock of Gibraltar.
was ye^t to come. The ancients considered the Pillars of Hercules the
head of navigation and the end of the Avorld. The information the
uicients didnt have was very voluminous. Even the prophets wrote
iHJok after book, and epi.stle after epistle, yet never once hinted at the
existeiice of a great continent on our side of tjie water ; yet they must
liave known it was there, I should think.
In a few moments a lonely an.l eiiorm.ms mass of rock, standiir-'
seemingly in the centre of the wide strait and apparently washed on alT
aides by the sea, swung magnificently into view, and we n^e.led n-.te-lious
traveled , , . „ . < 'i_ u nuuh
like that
ed parrot to tell us it was < ribralti
ni one kingdom.
ir. There could not l)e two rock
TIRESOME REPETITION.
'it, iUi(Lfroin m
icc tlie l)]('sse(l
laiul tliiit was
Uil>raltar, thv
ir Itast'.s veiled
e same l)L'iiii;-
Bss is over the
1 of Africa, 1
I Spain. The
it-looking old
Pi'wards. In
■Spanish Main
elf, and tlien
iretty Avonien
very jxjpular.
tlieni to keep
weary c)f the
wondei'fully
faks and the
and chained
n canvas till
peeding uvei'
All homage
, she swept
e ! Quicker
a cheer went
ly a one on
lis country's
o see it is to
a thrill that
already the
nit streaked
)f Gibraltiir,
[ercules the
■niation the
i)hets wi-ote
ited at the
they must
k. standing
islied on alj
i no tedi(nis
^' tv,(} rocks
45
'I
■I
h 1.400 to ,oOO feet high, and a .,uaiter of a n.ile wide at its basV
lie side and on., end of it co.no .-tbunt us straight uj. out of the sea ,us
Hie side o a house, the other end is irregular aiul the other side is a
steep slant which an army would lind very ditHcuit to climb. At tlio
foot of this slant is the M-alIe,l town of (iibraltar-or ratlu-r the town
ocrnpies part o the slant. Every where-<m hillside, in the ,.recipice
by he sea on the heigh ts,--e very where you choose to look, (iibrdtai-
i
is clad with masonrv and brisi'lin.o'
with guns.
It makes a strikiiu;- and
In el., picture, hom whatsoever point you contem].late it. It is pushed
out into the sea on the end of a flat, narrow strip of land, and is Jugges-
tne of a -^gob o mud on the end of a shingle. A fbw'hundred Zdn
of tins flat ground at its base belongs to the English, and then, extendin..
across the strip from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, a di.;tance of a
quarter of a mile, comes to the " Neutral Ground;" a space of two
hundred or three hundred yards wide, whicli is free to both parties '
•• Are you going through Spain to Paris (" Tliat question las bandied
about the ship day and night from Fayal to GibraUar, and I thou-ht I
never couhl get so tired of he.iring any one combination of words a<.uin
..riHore ircd of answering, "I don't know." At the last mon.ent six
nr seven had sufhcient decision of character to make up their minds to
late 1 oM, and I couhl make up my mind at my leisure, nut to •-o I
m;ist hr.ve a prodigious quantity of miml ; it fcdces me as much as a
week, sometimes, to make it up.
But behold how annoyances repeat themselves, We liad no sooner
gott«, .•ul of the hpaau distress than the Gibraltar guides started another
-a tiresome repetition of a legend that liad nothinu' very astonishing;
about ,t, even in_ the first place; "That higli hill yonder is called tlit
gueens Chair; it ,s because one of the Queen's of Sj.ain ]. laced her
cliair there when the Frencli and Spanish troops were besieo-ing Gibraltar
and .said she would never move from the .sj.ot till the English .la.,,. wa.s
oNvered from tne fortresses. If the English hadn't been gallant eimugh
to lower the flag for a few hours one .lay, she'd have ha.l to break her
• tatii or die u.) there."
sulI^/'"'^'""''T :'"'^;^^'ir"^l'' tlie steep, narrow streets and entered the
sut..iraiman galleries the English liave blasted out in the r.)ck. These
ga,lleries arc like spacious railway tunn..!s, and at short intervals in them
great guns frown out up.,n the sea and town througli port-holes five or
X hundre. feet above the ocean. There is a mile or so of this subter-
laneaii work, and it must liave cost a vast .k^al of money and labor.
i It gallery guns cmniand the peninsula and the harbors of both oceans,
but h..y might as well not be there, I should think, for an army coul.
lai-cl ly ehmb the perpendicular wall of the rock any how. Those lofty
poit-holes afiord superb views of the s..a, though. At one pl...ce. wliere
a luttmgcrag was hollowed out into a great chamber whose furniture
Mas hug^. cannon an.l whose windows w.re port-holes, a glim,. so was
•^•aught of a hill not far away, and a sol.lier .said : ' '^ ''
46
rURIOSITIKS OF THE SKCHET CAVEHN.S.
" Tlmt Jii^rh ],iii yonder is called the Oiiwn'si (<),.,;,. ■>. ■ i
Queen of Spain i.kced her o]Jv\hll ^'""^ it is beOause a
Spanish troops ^v4•e Se iL Gi rdtT', T'' ^l^'" '^'' ^'''''^' •''"*'
ti.iie»t littfe t,n--Imt/ vcreiS en,to^ 1 T •"* " *',"""» '"=" "»
aiKl oll,cr vessel, tl,,,t , ere Mm .il 'I"!" ''•'' "'" 'oleK»l>»» :
»..>I mvislUe to tl o , ke I eve eo ,Ti:'""i''- "I"' T" '''^*>' "'"J- ^'M.-
tl.e,e tele»„,,e». Bel"v- „ -"'.e si ■ f iS ;''»'■'%""*«' ""-""gl.
™,.s of ,„tte,.ios, „,„, „ ,; tw others;, •:i,,'t:;; ;^:z r ' "" ""'"'»
party, came up and sai<I • ^^'"^"^ belonging to another
"sri "Inf ^''f ,^f ^'"^'^V' ^^ ^""^^' *^'^ Q^^«^»'« Ghair"-
>5ii, 1 am a helj.le.ss oiphan m a forei'm land Rnv^ „;+,- ^
I>on o-_no%v ,/«„'« infliot that most in-KFRv .r 7.] i ^ ^ ""^ "'''•
to-day '" "^•^'' "•'** '^nt'iiil on me any move
possible u project as the takhig it bv a t^u v^MM "^"^ "1 -"V
more than once. ' ''"'"''•'^—'""1 ^t-t it has been tried
cHs^^ZiJ^'oMhitT^^'^rn ^^^^'-V^^'-""^^' -^'' '^ «^--ch old
with mi4;^r b^uL;^ :^ 'ir iSrs:!;;^ 'Hir f ;^^^ ^7".
battles and sieges that are foi-.-otten now tlT.l f \ '•*' ?"*''' "'
behind it, was cliscovered some W g^' .M^^^^::^^ "^ f^'^
qnisite wkmanship, and some qnaint old ^ of f'/irTh t ?"
cave in the sea extmn tTof Oi ,V?1 J'T"^ ^""''' ^^'"^ '^^^^^ ^""'"1 "^ ^
o.uy i,v«, befo,, ei.e tt^.,, ..„t ., ,„„oi. .::t:n,zX^:z:zx
ECCENTItK^ SHIPMATKS.
— O"
011 an endless
s been tried
47
this cave, likeJ.se, a^e fbn,^"kelS:;,:::.^ S o/!! ill^rS" ''I
in every part of Africa, yet within nK.nory and tr. it 1 "''''*
isted m any portion of Spain, save this loifeT.k of 'H ,■ "'If' T
theoiy is that the chaimel between Gibra ?• r • h Itl, ^i !'• , ?'] *''^
it was once ocean, and of course tlr e . Tf , ^"'"1' ^V"" '''''""•
at Gibraltar (after rock, pedui^ , !"" IJ^ "{"^""''^^v'^-^ --•
when the great char^ge octurred. The 1 ilh i IfL. "'^ ^". '^T^ ""*
are full of apes, and there are iiow • nd d v.^ ' i "' *''« ^■^"'^"el,.
Eock of Gibraltar-but not els vTere a S ^ Tl ^^^^^^
terestuig one. <^i''t\viiti€ m tepam . The subject is an in-
There is an English
'™i''' ™ °\ '-?"'"""'; °' ?■""" ■"■ J.wo '>»■■.. .-.i..!
costumes of snowv white •nul .,!«,. +1, ^ed and bine, and undress
rpi.e.1, .;,„-.»,,«,, t,^:rri "I ;, ■;:: ;:rz,;rst:;"' ""■«,-
Tangier, some brown, some vellow -md souu> .'T ] i ^etouan and
Jews from all around in gaS n^ L n 'v • I 1 r' '' '"'^"'^ "'^^-^">''
are in pictures and tneatr^. 'n f usf^ l.t^ ""i!^'"^'';^' J"«* 'f they
ago, no doubt. You can easilv iiSL- ai K^ , f U /'""'T^ ^^^^"^''^
pUgi-ims suggest that expression, l^^ £;^ ^ ^T^T
procession through these foreign places with.,,.) t f.*''^ggl"ig
complacency and* independence iW rtle ) lilt ourJ"u"\'^'" f ''
fifteen or sixteen States of the TTnim. f i , ' ^i^^e uj) from
«Mftingpanorama^S:;!intoS;r "'""'' «tare at ii this
Speaking of our pilgrims reminds me tl..it ^-^ i, ,,.
.n.o,,; „., who ,„■» '„„;„eti„,« „„ IZ^ H '..""irrV™"'"
the Oracle m that li.st. I will exnlnin +1, ,i +i /? , ' ''"* *^'"""^
old ass who eats for four an looks wse, ^\^^''''\' ,'« »» i""oce.nt
France would have airHortoTook . . 1 ' ' ''^'"'' ^"''^'''^'y «^"
when he can think "? a fom. ? X '-11 ':'" l""'^ '^ -'-^yJ^^We wonl
k.iows the meaning of any om ^^j j ' ,,,, ^;, ^y '-^''^ !'".«« ^^^ chance
rla^e : yet he will^renelj ^r li ^^Si^I^e ^^^Z '" "'^^^
ject, and back it un comulaceutlv witl. 1 I ^^'® '""'^* fd)struse sul,-
never exi»te<l, »,„, {in:^;^'! l''™ S /r;;;..-'"?'"™. »•'"!
the question, say he has been tlipv« oil +1 /• , ^' "*"*-''' ^"'^' "*
-itl/your oVn V,ken ;^ ;^^^^^^^ ^^^ -»- '-k at you
and play them in your veiy teeth ^^Z'A^d ^^!^r u " "S '''''^''^>
chapter in the giuded.ooks, mixl the facTa 1 'f^^^^^^^^^ , ^' ''''^' «
and then goes otfto inflict t).. wLll "^'' 7'*^' ^"» '""' niemorv.
has been Lterl L hi XtS S veVr' T 'r"fr'^^ "^ ""'^^''^"^ -^i^^l'
from erudite aut^H^V^.o "1 deuf 0^- f T^"'^^ ^f ^"'^'^''^^ "^ ^^^^^^^^
ins at breakfast he pointed ^u^o?,!^^:-^^;!^^*- ^'^'^ '""'^^ ^
■ H
''I*:
48
kccentrk; shipmates.
il't tlu'Ul
Wc can tolerate
"Do you see tliat tliore l.ill out tlier.- on tliat African coast ?--lt's ono
of then, pillows of lUv]<vMs, I .should say-- and there's the nltimate one
alongside of it.
'-The ultimate one— that is a good M-onI— hut the Pillars aivnot
hoth on the same .side of the strait," (I saw he had been deceived I.v -i
carelessly written .sentence in the Guide liook.) ' '
"Well, it ain't for you to .say, nor for uie. Some authors states it
that way, and some states it different. Old Gil.hous don't sny nothino-
about it,~iiist shirks it comolete— (iib).ons always done that when he
got stuck— but tliere is Rolami)ton. what does Ae s.-iv MVliy heviv.s
that tJK.'y are both on tlu^ same side, and Trincnliau. "and Soha'ster -uul
hyraccus, and L:ingomarganl)l — " ' '
_ '• Oh, that will do-that's enough. If yon liave got vour hand in for
inveuting authors and testimony, I have nothing nioiv to sav-
lie on the same side."
We don't mind the Oracle. We rather like him.
the Oracle very easily ; but we have a poet and a "good-natured enter-
prizmg idiot on board, and the}' do distress the company. The one -ave,s
coi)ie.s of his verses to Consuls, commanders, hotel keejwrs, .\rabs Dutch
--to any body, in fact, who will submit to a grievous inliictiou most
kindly meant. His poetiy is all very well on shipboard, notwithstandin-.
wlien he wrote an "Ode to the Ocean in a Storm" in one half-hour luri
an '■ Apostro])he to the Rooster in the Waist of the Ship" in the next
the transition Avas considered to be rather abrupt : but ^^ hen he sends au'
uivoice of rhymes to the Oovernor of Fayid and another to the coinmander-
in-cluef and other dignitaries in (4ibraltar, with the compliments of the
Laureate of the Shij), it is not popular with the i-a.ssen<'ers.
The other personage T have mentioned is ^-oung and gre(>n, and not
bright, not learned and not wise. He will be. though, some day if l-e
recollr^cts the answers to all Jiis (juestions. He is known al)out tlie shin
as the "Interrogation Point," and this l)y constant use ha.s become
shortened to "Interrogation." He has d'istinguished himself twice
already. In Fayal they j.ointed out a hill .and told him it was ei^dit
hundred feet high and eleven hundred feet long. And tuey told hiiu
there w^as a tunnel two thousand feet long and one thousand feet hi-di
running tlirougli the hill, from end to end. He believed it. He repeated
It to eveiy body, discussed it, and read it from his notes. Finallv, he
took a useful hint from this remark whicli a tlioughtful old i)ii<aim
made : ■ i .■?
"Well, 3^es, it 2.v a little remarkable— singular tunnel alto"-ether~
stauds up out of tlie top of the hill about two hundred feet, .niKrone end
of it sticks out of the hill about nine hundred !"
Here in Gibraltar he corners these educated British officers and bad-'ers
them with braggadocia about America and the wonders she can perfom
He told oiie of them a couple of our gunboats could come here and knock
Gibraltar into the MediteiTaneaii Sea !
HKAUUINCi TUK MOOK I.V Hl.S CASTLK.
ast ? — It's Olio
' ultimate one
illiU'.s arc not
(lecei\t'(l Iiy -i
hors states it
t .SKV iiotliiim-
1
tliat wlicu ]io
Vliy, lie Kays
Sobastcr, and
!• liaiul in foi-
ity- let tlieni
can tolerate
atured enter-
'hc one given
val's, Duteli,
iiietion most
ivitiistandinj^
iilf-lioui', au(i
in tiie next,
lie sends an
connnander-
ments of tlie
cen, and not
s day, if he
out the ship
has become
nself t\yice
t was eiglit
ey told liini
id f(>et high
He repeated
Finally, he
old pilgrim
Itogetlier^ —
nd one end
md hadgers
lu perform.
' and knock
4?
At this j.resent moment, half a .lozen of us aiv taking a private pleasure
excursion of our own devising. We form rather more tl an if the t
of win e passengers on hoard a small steamer hound for the e i. nb e
Moorisli town ot Tangier, Africa. Nothing could be inore a .'oh telv
certam than that we are enjoying ourseh-es. ( >ne can not cIo o he wi ^
who speeds over these .sparkling waters, and breathes the soft tmosT.hm ^
of this sunny laml. Care can not assail us here. We are r if i '
jurisdiction, "ic-uui oi it,>
We even steamed recklessly by the frowning fortress of M-d-.b..f i .
.stronghold of the Emperor of Morocco,) without a t wh^e of ft • T i
whole garris<m turnedout under arms, and a,ssumeda tlu'ateuim^^attitu e
-ye s 111 we du not fear. The entire garrison niarche.l and' coin e
^:''j:^iXr''^'''' '' ''" '"^-y-' -withstandiny^e:::.
I sup,,ose Ave really do not know what fear is. I iu.adred the n-ime
of the gamson of tlie fbi^ressof Malabat, and they said ^ Z. S W
All Ben bancom. I said it would be a <rood i i»... tn ,rof . ^"' "*^'"^^
gamins to help him ; but they said no*! CLd'tt^ di^ ll^^^t
s:;;is::::;ling H;::^.;::t.Zn™^^ ''''-' ^'^^' '^""'^^ ^-^ -" -^•*-
fivery now and then my gbve purchase in Gibraltar last ni-dit
ntrudes itself upon me. Dan and the .ship's surgeon and I ha bee u
to the great square, li.stenmg to the music of the iine militarv ' ids
and coiitemplatmg English aiul Spanish female loveliness llnfft^iS'
aid. a Docock, were on our way to the theatre, when we met the
Genera the Judge, the Commodore, the Colonel, a ul the Connnis'lner
b e 'to'Se avf h" ""' t""""V" ""r^'^' ^^'^•' "-1 Au.ic:;:X 1^
the bill ff . T7' ! '>'''*'' ^^'""' ''''''^ titl^« '^"^1 impoverish
Sar t le H r :f 7 I "' ^■ T' '" ^"^ ""'''' *" '^'' '^**^« ^'^"^^v store,
near the Hall of Justice, and buy some kid gloves Thev said tl.ev
go to the theatre m kul gloves, and we acted upon the l/int. A very
iMidscuue young lady in the store offered me a pair of blue .doves T
iike'm Lr^y'"' '"*f ^^ ^'f f'^y ''-'''''' ''''''■'^•y l*-ttv on a hand
like mine. The remark touched me tenderly. I glanced * furtive! vJt
my hand, and somehow it did seem a ratlier inelv t Xr I titd a
glov^e on my left, and blushed a little. Manifestly the size m.^Too
small for me. But I felt gratified when she said • ' '''^ ''''''''''' ^^
Oh, It IS p^t right l''-yet I knew it was no such thing.
X fSf'-Uxt It diligently, but it was discouraging work, "she said ■
All . 1 see i/ou are accustomed to wearing kid cloves— Ijut snniA
gentlemen are ..« awkward about putting them on" " ^
It Wius the hust compliment I liad expected. I only undei-stand nuttino-
on the buckskin article perfectly. I 'made aiiother^f^S^Ind toil" f
^Si^lLnrde^!::;^:;:,^^ compliments, and I kept up my
■HI,
■W
50
VANITY REBUKED.
EXTEUTAININd AN AXGEL.
" All, yo.i liave had experience !" [Rip down tlie back of tlie hand.]
"They aro just ri^lit for
you — your liaiid is very
Kinall — if tiif-y teai- you
need not pay for them."
[A rent across tlie mid-
dle.] I can always tell
when a gentleman un-
derstands jmtting on kid
gloves. There is a gra«e
about it that only comes
with long practice. [The
whole aftei'-guard of the
glove " fetched away," as
the sailors say, the fabric
]iarted across the knuckles
and nothing was left but
a melancholy ruin.]
I was too much Matter-
ed to make an exjiosure,
,-., ,, ,, , , '"^*^' throw the merchan-
dise on the angels hands. I was hot, vexed, confused, but still
happy; but I hated the other boys for takuig such an absorbing interest
m the proceedmgs. I wished they were in Jericho. I felt exquisitely
mean when I said cheerfully,— ^ •'^
" This one does very well ; it tits elegantly. I like a glove that tits.
No, never mind, ma am, never mind ; I'll put the other on in the .street.
It IS warm here.
It was warm. It was the warmest place I ever was in. I paid the
bill and as I passed out with a fascinating bow, I thought I detected a
ightin the woman s eye that was gently ironical; and when I looked
ba«k from the street, and she was laughing all to herself about some-
thing or other, I said to myself, with withering sarcasm, " O certainly •
yo?* know how to put on kid gloves, don't you ?-a .self-complacent als!
ready to be flattered out of your senses by e^ery i)etticoat that chooses
to take the trouble to do it."
The silence of the boys annoyed me. Finally, Dan said, musin-ly •
Some gentlemen don't know how to jjut on kid gloves at al! • but
some do. '
And the doctor said (to the moon, I thought,)
'' B"<^ it is always ea.sy to tell when a gentleman is usedHo nuttin.' on
kid gloves. ^ '="'
Dan soliloquized, after a pause :
" Ah, yes ; there is a grace about it that only comes with lon^, very
long practice." • oy j
" Yes, indeed, I've noticed that when a man hauls on a kid ^love like
he was dragging a cat out of an ash-hole by the tail, fie understands Dut-
tmg on kid gloves ; he's liad ex—" '■
■,•■*
IN ■niK KMIMltK OF MOKOCCO.
i" tlie Imiul.]
list riij;lit for
and is very
f'y tear you
V for tliem."
isH the inid-
iilwiiys tell
itlenuin uii-
ttiiig on kid
•e is a grace
only comes
ctice. [The
uard of the
d away," as
f, the fabric
;lie knuckles
vas left but
ruin.]
uich Hatter-
n exposure,
le ruercliau-
1, but still
ing interest
exquisitely
• e that tits.
1 the street.
I i)aid the
[ detected a
en I looked
ibout some-
' certainly ;
•lacent ass,
hat chooses
usingly :
at all ; but
51
Boys, enough ot a thn.g's n.oug], : y,,, u.iuk vou aro very su, ,rt
suppose, but r dou t. And if you go and tell anv of tho.„ o i . 'i i
lu the ship about th,s tlung, I'll never forgin- v..u iov it ; that' d '' '
They let me alone, then, for the tini... bfin-. 'Wo ahvivs I ,t I \h
alone .n time to prevent ill ft^ling from H.Knlin:: ^i^ I) ; 1
bougiit gloves, too, as I cd. AVe. threw •il! tl„. 7.,,,. .1, , ■. '
1«, „l y,.llo,v s|,l„to „.», „,„1 c.o„l,l ,„.i,l„.,.»t.„.i ,«..„.,„■ ,,ul,li ' i ,i ,
L' s rr "' " *■"■' ""■""""■ '•"' "■■■ •''■' "•■•■ ' 'kv N.n-;;. "s,;;;
*ii
V,t»
puttiug^on
long, very
glove like
stands jiut-
CHAPTER VIII.
rjlHIS is n>yal ! L.t tl.„M. who went up thruu^I. S.ui.i make the I,.st
iiiti Ai.iui.i) ivm^^iitK. Here are no -rt-Jiiti! iiifii visil)l(' v,.+ J,...
the Jioiisos nearly are one and tM-o-story ; niu.le o{ tlnV u l .
plastered outside; square as a drv-^ooclVbox fj. •!!':, ''* "*"""'
cj>nucos ; whitewashld all over-;,:::tled^itf' f t^wvl^s ' •^' V-S
. the (lours are arched with the peculiar arcli we\ee in Af •' .
Tliere are stalwart Bedouins of the desert her > n, If . i Ar
proud of a history that goes back to tl.e ni h^of i n^ „ T '' ^^T'''
iathe. Hed hither centuries upon eenturie^:!nd'^a.i;^ ^JS^^Z
c\ ^.,
A KINXV TOWN.
53
e the I)e,st
our little
ic Jirt'seiit.
Klwswliert'
'ojtle, l.ut
iliiir witli
rce. We
— "U'cil,'!!
i;i,'?i in.siil.'
(liliite its
'tlli'f liiud
s not the
■e uhvays
lectures
>r I'tality.
1 eiiuugh
I if ever
iny })ook
'j swiU'ins
iuclosecl
hi. All
)f' stone ;
top ; no
i.' And
)it'tnn's ;
Jil niiiny
red tiles
■e in the,
ish ones
n enter,
six, hnt
;heni by
IMoors,
, wlio.se
ns from
the nionntains — Imin ont-thronts „i.-i • • i
Mack as Muses ; an.l h.J^^^^^^Z^'l^'^^ 1 " n'""". "'«''""^- "«
all sorts an.l descriptions </„,,!]' "'""."•'•"•' '"■<'"<Ih of Aral.s-
,ip„n. ' * 1" "I''' ^'"'t '"•'' *"'■'■•;,"' 'NHl ruri,.u,s to look
"...1 ni.nson' sash of n ,v f ' ""'""'r'' ""''•'•'"''"■'••■-I J-ket. goM
fowsers that v con "lit 1 h .)"'"';' •''',!■" '""' '•"""' ''"'^ -'''«*»
yar.ls of stuff in the, .n n 1 /"'^ knee and yet have tw-nty
.Vcllow slipp,.,.s. an n ; ';''''^"''' •"'^'^''•-. .sto,.kin.de,s,s feef.
<Iowi;^ white hen s , .1: ""^ ^"' ^-^ '"- "«<"' Moors wi
<loNviM;( White heanls andloii^r wl.iirri '"•?, ^"^'■'' ""' "«"'' ^^•^"'•'^ ^^'f'
with Ion;... cowled s't e< S. i '' '"^'' ''''^ '"•'^^''^ ^ '""' '^'"'-"i"^
Hcan slau-en, except ri;;:!.;^:,::;;;^;:^:?;;""^' ^'•"-^ -'t'' ''-'h
wo.n...are^.n;;L:;:i;zxr^^
>no
•y
whose sex can on v h.^' d t^! , 7 hv ', ' f " ^ "T -Into n.bes, an
eye visihie. and n,:ver look .t Z ,.f tl ' ''"^ ""'^ '*'"^" "'"
the.n in pnl.lic He v ^ h\-P ,"'t "'''" '■'^''' *^'" "'"^ '""'<"^1 '^^ hy
tli^ir waistl ^liij; :.:^^:; rS. t:^" ;» ;.l.Yahe,.dines, sash.^
Df their he;ulK 1,..;. i, . , " *'''5 J'*^'^' «knll-caps noon tho
I])'! npon tho
and cut strai,',dit
them n
ahout
Tangier anoest. llf worn Jul T V' V'" r'*""^""" ^'"^''■"" ^''-••
centuries. Tlieir feS .uu \h cle "r/bt' ' Tr" '"" ""'"> '--'•'-•"•^'
and hooked alike. Thev aH rese> le e .1 H ' ""^'^^ '^''^ "" I'<>'>I^-<h1,
almost believe they wII^TS.!^; ' Sr: """' "'"' r"" '^•"''*'
l"-etty, and do smile upon a C!h rsti. n i .. •?"•'"•" '"'" l''"'"'' '^"^
comforting. ' '^■iiu.stian in a way which is in the last .legree
What a fininv old town it it i t+ i-i
jest, and bandv^l^ ft '^X,^ hat cj Z^^"" V^o^-'tion to -laugh, and
the stately pi.raseolo.rv ard b. f '"^ '"'"'^ T ^'^""'•'' '*^'^'«- <>"lv
Prophet are uitS Jo a veT.er.,b 'T^'^T"^ T'''^' "^ *''^' "'^"'^ '^t' the
ling wall tha w, s old wle r r^X''^'' *'''^- ^''''' '« ^^ ^•^"■"•-
wh^n Peter the Xn it ;ir;;/ An.erica ; was old
arm for the firstT^ 1 ^^ o d wl"^ f 'T '^ '''^ ^^^»''''« ^"^^"-^ *«
heleagiiered enchai ed t^tTeTa U .T\ '""-t"':'"-^ ""'* '''« 1"'J''^1'»«
fabled days of T o^den tW w f ^^-'^H'iants anrl genii in the
walke,l the eartl stood wleii't 7" 1 / 'V''" !'^""''^* '""' ''•« ''i«*^'P'*'«
were yocai, ancl lien bJu-^Hnd «^ l"- f"^"^'' '^■'''" '^'' ''l'« "^" ^^f^'""">»
The Ph.;nicianr.L :fi;"l!?^^^ "'.*^'«ilt-!^.t'^ «^- '"'oient Thel,es :
ori
It by Julius Ca
infant Saviour
The Ph.enioians the W "'tJie streets of ancient Thebes I
I'aye battled fr¥;„/iev^r"''"'^ ^'' ^'"'^^''^'' ^^I«"^«' ^""'ans, all
oriental-looking luZ f ~; oirdrV* ?"' '"*-^*- "^^^'^^ '^ '^ ^^^^^^'
his goat-skin M^ith .SwZr^.'! rlV':^^!/" V!?-- Africa, filliiJ
tlie
V nine
the
Hi
»^1
.Aj^
i
irgms an,is, have stood upon it, may be.
r>i
A I HAIil.K OK ANTK^rnV.
Nc.ii' il iiic I'lr niim of a iloclc ynr.! wlit-i'.. ('a'.sar it.|iiiiivil lii.H sliiiM
ii!i«l loii.li-d tli.iii witli Kniiii wlu-ii I..- invad.-,! Uritiiiii, Hftv vcnns licfniv
tlic CJiiisliiiii fi.i. ' '
Hi'lV. lllld.r ill,, ([iiict HtlU's, tllfsr nl.l stlV(•t^^ Sfl'lll tlllolixcd with til."
Itlimituiiis of foixott.'U Hjrc.s. My t'vrs all- ivstiii;,' ii|>uii »' spot \vli.-iv
Kt«.nd 11 inomiiiH-nt wliidi was sf.-ii aial d.'.sciil,,.,! \,y Hoinaii IiistnnaiH
less than twn tlioiisaud years a^u, w linvoii was insv'iilK'd :
'• NVi; AUK Tin; Ca.naanitks. Wk auk tiikv that havi: iikkn imuvka
on m:- thk la.nu or Canaan hv tiu: .Jkwish kohiikii, .Josm a."
.loslma (li«>\r them out, mid tliey eauie licic. Not iiiiniy miles from
liere is a trilte of J.^ws whusc. ancestors tied thither after an 'uiisiicn-ssfMJ
revolt ayfiiiist Kin-- David, and these (heir <K'seeiidaiits are still under a
b.in iiul keep to themselves.
Tjin.u'ler has hcen mentioned in history for thivi- thousand veais. Ami
It was a town, though a nwvv one, Avhe'n Hereules, clad in his lion-skin,
Ian led here, four thousand years a,<,'(). In these streets he met Anitus,'
the Kin;H' of the country, and l.rained liim with his did), which was tin'
fasliion amon.K yentjemi-n in those days. The people of Tangier (caUed
Tin;.iis, then,) lived in tlie rudest possii)le huts, and dressed in skins and
carrii'd cliths, and were as sava/.-e as the wild heasts thev were constantly
o))li;,'ed to vN-ar with. But they wer(> a ^'entlemanly Vace, and did no
work. They lived on the natural products of tlie "land. Their kinir's
country residence was at the famous Garden of Hesi>erides, seventy mih's
down the coast from lure. Tlie j^'arden, with its j... Men apples, (oranges,)
IS goiH^ no\\ — no vesti.tfe of it remains. AntKpiariaus concede that such
n )»tir,sona«'e as Heirules did exist in ancient tunes, and apve that he was
an enteiprisin;^ and ener.<;etic man, hut decline to I.elieve him a i;oo<l, bona
fid:'i f;()d, Itwau.se that wouhl l)e unconstitutional.
Down here at Cape Spartel is the celebrated cave of Hercules, where
that hero took refu<,'e when he wa , vaiKpiished and drix ii out of the
lankier country. It is full of inscripti .s in the dead lan!,niaj,'es, which
fact makes me think Hercules could i nt have traveled much, else he
would not have kept a journal.
Five (hiys' journey from here— .say 200 miles— are the ruins of an
juicient city of whose history there is neither record nor tradition. And
yet Its arches, its columns, and its statues, proclaim it to have been Imilt
by an enliohteued race.
The -j;eneral size of a store ill Tan.vdei- is about that of an ordinary
8how.^r-b:»th in a civilized land. The Mohammedan merchant, tinman,
«hoemaker, or vendor of trifles, sits ci-os.s-lej,%'ed on the floor, and reaches
after any article you may want to buv. You can rent a whole block of
these pi,y;eon-holes for fifty dollars a month. The market people crowd
tlie inarket-plaoe with their baskets of tigs, dates, melons, apricots, etc.,
sind anions: them M'e tvmir, 07 huh-ri a-sses, not nuich iaii.'ii, if any, than a
-Newfoundland dog. Tl- s< e is lively, is iiicturesqiie, and smells like a
il llin slli|M
('ill's licfoic
•(I uith tlif
■ipllt wlu'jv
IiistDiiniH
KX DIUVKN
i."
iiiilt'H from
iisiit'ccsst'nl
II iindtM- it
ars. And
lion-skin.
ct AnituH,
c'li wa.s tlip
fit'i- (nilit'd
skins and
constantly
nd did no
it'ii- Icintf's
iMity milt's
(oranges,)
that sudi
lat he was
•ood, l)ona
ft lUOl s IIKVKM K SV.STKM. Tt.'*
poljco ,<ourt. TIh. .Jewish mon..y d.an;;vrs have their den.s eh. t hand •
"'"',■•'",',•)' ;"^' '"■ "'"'"- •"■<^"/e eoins and transferrin- them from"
one hushelhasket t<, another. They don't coin nu.eh mon.-v nou-a-davs
think. I saw none la.t what ^vas dat..d four or five hnndred vea,->;
Imek. an.l Avas hadly worn and imttered. These eoins ar." not v.-rv vahiahle
.la.k SNvnt out to got a Napoleon ehan«(Hl, so as t.. have mone'v suited t.i
the j^en.Taleheapness of thin;.s. andean,., haek and said In- had - swanmrd
he hank ; ha. hr.ai^rl.t .'levn .,uarts of e..in. ami th.- hea.l of th.. hrm
had ,:^..n.. on the stret-t to ue-otiate f..r th.' halanee of th.- ehan-.. " I
hoiight nearly halfa pint of their m.,ney for a shilliie,' mvs.-lf I aii. not
pnaal on ama.nt of havin,. so mueh m.aa.y, th.a.yh. I'eare nothii,;,. for
Th.- .Moors hav,. som.< sm„ll silver coins, an.J als.. s..m.. silver s1ii-h
worth a .lollar each The latfr aree.ve....din,^dy .scare., so much .so that
xvli..n p..or ra-«..d Aral.s s.-e one they !,«.- to he alloNv..(l to ki.ss it
I hp- hav., al.soa .small -old coin w.jrth two .lollars. An.l that n.inin.ls
me of , something \V he,. Morocco is in u state of war, Aral. ,.o„ri..r,s
carry 1.. t.-rs ihrou-h th.. ountry. and charge a lii.eral po.stago. Every
now ami th..,i th..y fall into tl... hands of mannuling l.an.ls an.lget rol.l.e.1
iH'retore, warned by e.xperi..nce. as soan as th.'v have ..olh.ct.-.l tw.,
<lollars worth ..1 money they ex.'hang., it for one .,f those little gohl
pieces, and wh,.n rohhers come upon them, .swall.)w it. The .strata-em
was good while it was unsnspocted, hut afl... that the maraml..rs sinmly
Bav., the .sagacious Lnited Stato,s m ' an e/netic an-l sat down to wiit.
ihe i.mperor of Moro.-co is a v.uUe.ss d.«pot, and the great ..tticers
midnr him a.v, ( tMpots on a ,sm ,h,., s ..1... Then, is no regular sv.st..m ..f
taxation, l.u when the Kinpe.or or the I'.ashaw want money, t'hey levy
ou some, rid, man, and he has to furui.sh the cash or go t., prison.
Iherefore lew men iii Morocco dare to he rich. It is too .lan-Jrous u
uxury. Vanity occasionallN h.-ads a man to display wealth, hut s.,oner or
later tli.^, Lmperor trumps m, a charge against him'-any Hurt of one will
(o-aml conh.scatesl is property. Of course, there are many rich men
in th.. i^inj.ire, hut their money is hurie.l, and tliey dress in ra-s and
counterleit poverty. Every now and then the Emperor imprisons a man
who IS .s,.s,,ect..d of the crime of heiug rich, and makes things so
uncomfortable fo,. h.n. that he is forced to discover where h<. has hidden
Ins money.
Moors and Jews so.nstime. place themsslves under the i.rotection of
the tore.gn cousuls, and the:, tliey c.ui Hout their riches in the Emperor's
lace with imi)unity. '
1^
.J
'•si
CH APT Ell IX.
(muv liis tribe hicre* rfwl i' "^^ ''"* ^'^^'J^ Maliomnied Lamart/,
with tall tower • c Ul. n V ""T T'' '' ^"« ^^^««"«1^ "^os.iue
eve.y part a Jp^^^ou^ ^l^'^^Ul.^:!^"-^^^^^^^^ ^'^'^^''""' -^'
tnreof the Alliamhra a.ulBlnP W If ^ . f • •' *^'^ '!"'"»* architec-
A startlin- " K 1 •^' ^ ^'"'^''^' *^*'^ite(l to ride into tlie open door-wav
then we were hiLCd tt ' V ^'"^ '^^'*=^"^' *''« aclventuror, and
of the uM.^'t^^^x^i^iT'ZL yi T«;i' "f'"""""
...71 ti.e cioct. ;;;,dVi;i;''i,^r;„r;;i "■"■'■"^""'' """ '"» '""^ i''- ^
ins natural charaet^'r Wp vi..,>^rl +i „ • -i in ""'"•""*} and go lu
iLici^i . We ^ isited the jail, und found Moorisli prisonera
THREE SUNDAYS 1\ a WEEK.
57
making mats ami kv^kets. (Tliis thing of utilizing crime savors of
«vihzation.) Murder is punished with death. A short time ago thrS
murderers we,^ taken beyond the city walls and shot. Moorish <nn^
are not good, and neither are Moorish marksmen. In this instance Ihev
.set up the poor criminals at long range, like .so many targets, and practised
on them-kept them hopping ahout and dodging bullet^ fo'r hal/J hour
before they managed to drive the centre.
When a man steals cattle, they cut off his right hand and left le- ami
nail them up in the market place as a warning to everv body tS
surgery ,s not artistic. They slice around the bone a lit'tle ; then brea^
on the liinl). Sometimes the patient gets well • but as
ii general thing
1 1 ,, XT -—-■■-— i...wv.w>, j^^^„ ,Yt;ii j ouL as a general tJiniff
Vv^ TI "■'■' * '' ^^r^"'"^^ ^''''' '' ''''''■ Tl'« Moon^vere always
1.1.1V e. These criminals undergo the fearful operation without a wince
without a tremor of any kind, without a groan ! No amount of .sufierinff
can bring down the pride of a Moor, or make him shame his dignity with
Here, marriage is contracted by the parents of the parties to it. Thei-e
n'n-ln.V: 1 "'■''. """^''^?' interviews, no riding out, no courting in dim
pailois, no lovers quarrels and reconcillations-no nothing that is ,u-o).er
to approacung matrimony. The young man takes the girl his father
selects for lam, marries her, and after that she is unveiled, and he sees
l.er for he tii-st tn.ie. If, after due acquaintance, she sluts him he
retains her; but if he suspects her purity, he bundles her back to her
i r^ ;.1I !f J'^Yl^^eased, the same; or if, after just and reasonable
time is a lowed her, she neglects to bear children, back she goes to the
home of her childhodd. o ^ ^" wie
Mohammedans here who can afford it, keep a good many wives on
hand. They are called wives, though I believe the Koran only allows
four gemune wives-the rest ai. concubines. The Emperor of ^Morocco
don t know how many wives he has. but thinks he has tive hundred
matter'"' '"^ "earenough-a dozen or .so, one way or the other, don't
Even the Jews in the interior have a plurality of wives
J have caught a glimpse of the faces of several Moorish women (for
hey are only human, and will expose their faces for the admiration of a
h. is^ian dog when no male Moor is by, ) and I am full of veneration for
tJie wisdom that leads them to cover up such atrociou,s ugliness
the world' o7er '''"' '^'"'^'"^" "* *''""' ''"'''"' ''' " '"'''' ^'^"^ •'*'^'' *^'^^*^«^
moment a female slave becomes her ma-ster's concubine her bonds am
)roken, and as soon as a male slave can road the first cha,.ter of the Koran
(which contains the creed, ) he can no longer be held in bondage.
conies'nn Xl !? ""t""!'* r"'*^!^ "' ^''"'^'''- The Molutmmedan's
■ibcM, ;? '" n 'Tf *''" '""'^ ''"^''^- Tl'« Moor goes to his mo.sque
about noon on his sabbath, as on any other day, removes his shoes at the
Si
SHARP PRACTICE OF MOUAM«EDAN PILGRIMS.
mI r^lH '" ^f'r • ' I'Ai^HniHge to Mecca is eiftitled to hi^h lisWion
they pay for passage is about all the trip cos s Tliev take ^ it .
qu.vti|,^ffbo.l,UKl^hend.eco„.niss^^
Sev i r'"' "• ^"",'"^^"^' "^'"^■'>' ^^'^>'- ^^^•'^>" the time tl ev " - till
they^^et home again, they never wash, either on land or seV Til
the^tef,]?]/^''";,^'-''^*"''''''^ scrape a long time to gather together
tie ten dollars their steamei, passage costs; and when one of tliem et^
b-ick he IS a bankrupt forever after. Few Moors can ever build u the r
fortunes again m one short lifetime, after so reckless anoutl v l! f
rr ' 1'?'°': f '^"?'""''' "'■»"<«' ""<' An>»ic„, 1 ," t „; " ,«,™^ t;
t ne tL ;„ f i *'t«»'»"l« t«Khed them „„ a te.ul,.- ,,„i„t tlmt
tune. ll,e ,mfeh„e conduct ,u eating n,, all the Teto.mn cat, arou^J a
FAREWELL TO TAXOIEK.
59
hatred toward tlieni in the breasts of the Moors, lo which even tlie
driving them out of Spain was tame and passionless. Moors and Spaniards
are foes forever now. France had a Minister liere once who embittered
the nation against him in the most innocent way. He killed a coui)le of
battalions of cats (Tangier is full of them,) and made a parlor carpet out
of their hides. He made liis carpet in circles — first a circle of old gray
tom-cats, with their tails all pointing towards the centre ; then a cTrcle
of yellow cats ; next a circle of black cats and a circle of white ones ;
then a circle of all soi-ts of cats ; and, finally, a centre-])iece of assorted
kittens. It was very beautiful ; but the Moors curse his memory to this
day.
When I went to call on our American Consul-General, to-day, I noticed
that all possible games for i)arl or amusement seemed to be re[»resented
on his centre-tables. I thought that hinted at lonesoineness. The idea
was correct. His is the only American family in Tangier. There are
many foreign Consuls inthi place ; Ijut much visiting is not indulged in.
Tangier is clear out < ' / world ; and what is the use of visiting when
proplehrtve nothinr . th to talk about? There is none. So each
Consiil's family sta_>o m nome chiefly, and amuses itself as best it can.
Tangier is full of interest for one daj'!^ but after that it is a weary prison.
The Consul-General has been here five years, and has got enough of it to
doliim a century, and is going home \shortly. His family seize tiiton
their letters and papers when the mail arrives, reatl them over and over
again for two days or three, talk them over and over again for two or
three more, till they wear them out, and after that, for days together,
they eat and drink and sleep, and ride out over the same old road, and see
the same old tii-esome things that even ilecades of centuries have scarcely
changed, and say never a single word ! They have literally nothing-
whatever to talk about. The arrival of an American man-of-war is a
god-send to them. " Oh, Solitude, where are the charms which sages
have seen in thy face?" It is the completest exile that I can conceive
of. I would seriously recommend to the Government of the United
Slates that when a man commits a crime so henious that the law provides
no adequate punishment for it, they make him Consul-General to
Tangier.
I am glad to have seen Tangier—the second oldest town in the world.
But I am ready to bid it good bye, I believe.
We shall go hence to Gibraltar this evening or in the moniing ; and
doul)fcless the Quaker (.4ty will sail from that ].oi-t within the next forty-
eight hours.
CHAPTKli X.
'•'"l^ant .sunslnne t]... «linte 1 cterih^^, '" ^t'«« '"'■^' "'"»™ei- wind ; a
crested >nountain.s of watr a s^i [ „5 t"' T'^ '''''''^''' instead of
Wue, so ricl.ly, brilliantly bii,; th it i ' "" '''"? ''''' '^ ^v^onderfully
^vit 1. tho ,si,ellof it,s fasoLS '''^''""" *^'*^ ''""^^^ sensibilities
ft-on. (Gibraltar, that liarcl-featmil !i J^' •' ''''^'""' '^'^ «^"^«'l '^^^aj
-nch. so soft, so -.chanties t"u,r;^:r'""S^^"^ '^ ---"y mii;
that serene, that insnire,) ihJ '' dieainy, that even the Oracle
^-, ancl tarried "t:;:^il!'?' oveii,owern.g luunbug, scorned the dinlS
theilft^i-ts in^li^V^Iitf i.fSv1'' '' '■■ , ""'f ^^"^^'^ ^-- '-'- of
^.fcuunt of the sn,.er or r^fr- n lilv '""'"^'' *'"'* *'"^'» '^'^^^' is on
combination -itl Ahe kn^i Se ftSirinr "'"^ T^l- ^' ^'^'^ ^'^'^ ^^"-'"i^
should yon think V ' ^ ^^'"^ perihelion of Jubiter. What
.'<' ojl' ^:s\t'lii\ ^"" ''"'^ ''"'* '"^'' ^^'^"* '^^^'^^y-
m^.nne;it which nr,oZv ^ J^^^ZS.^ n^' '^^''- ''' '""" "^'^'^^« ««
chance in an ar^nnient wit Ine i^d "t "' '""* "^^^*' '"^'^'^^l «"V
yon say. Jack f ^''^ ^"^ ^'^°'^« i*. too. What should
bo:i{Tdo;tfj';:;;:j--^^
" He's gone, too' Wefl Cn f . , '''" ^'°" ^^* "'^ '^'«"^-"
they say," but the okhn n' if ^^^^^^^ ^-«'^. -«
L<^^ ain't satistied with ti^ :;:dnZ ^5' '"• ""'^^ ''^ '''^' ^^'
'te\S^t'c3;';^f '"•""^/■^•^-^ -' -It below,
out ofknu. I n v", ee'on '^' H "• 7''"' ^ ^'^^"'* ^^l-^t nothin.
He'll go down, now, IT ^H Ll ^^ T\ T *'"' ^"""^'^ '"^^ thin-f
slush about that old ocC «i^ -e tt ' ]' ''"'"'^ ."^" ^^''^ '-^^^^""^^t
or any body he can oome'ac^s irs ^^iol.T' ' '•" ^' »*""*' "^^ '^ "if^'^^^r.
soniebodv'd take th.+ , , , "'^" "^^ ^'"^ iniiKwe on Pitv biJ
CELEBRATION CEREMONIES. (jj
JIFZTO T'"'! "^°" "" *>™"» ^ '""■" »"tl'orili«, „„w, and I'll
own .■=»l.on,iWli,yf tat „iJn7jt,£'7l'''y .™" f<"- '»«'» ou your
om- mf„„„,„i„n „t « iSte, hour, f™X . E,™ ^'"""J/f '»=">'
^t to ,™,.k „„ «:» celebmSon coin otof I ^r Z.:„' rth'"';'""
coiiinanv fissembled -iff m. rl->r.i. ,• -^^ I'^-.iii'-ei noun the , shin's
^vitli Ins dreadful wild-goose Jp turner^' If I ^ •^'"''''' '^^*'"''^«'^
was concerned. ^ ' ^'" '^" *^'^ Mediternniean
wi^'s;St bvt^of rs :i,;:sr'r, «j^"^^^ i-- -- --ted
wa^hei down with ^t^i^^S^^^ ^^l^^;;^^ ^^;^- toasts .ere
.ad-execrable, almost .vithout evoeption TTfvi^] ^ ^''''^''' '""""
»'>.t one. Capt. Duncan made a C svi^ch 1^; "i^:;-^"'?' 1'*^"",'
speech of the evening. He said • ^ ' '^"^ *'''' ^"'•>^ i'^o'^
()2
AVK;^vo^,s nv vi.v?"
" Ladik,s and Uen'tlkmkn :-May Ave nil live to a La-eeu old a-'e anri
^J^-l-ron. and happy. Steward, bring up auothe? basket o^'lutm
It Avas regarded as a very able effort.
It v/as a bright, oheerfid. ple..sant Fourth "'^'tu^ctuoi,
ToAvanl nightfall the next evening, we steamed into the -a-eat artitioial
arbor of this noble city of Marseilles, and saw the dvin-^s 1 h 'j
There were no stages out, and we could not get on the i.ier from tlm
snp_ It Avas annoying. _ We AA-ere full of enSu.siasn - "^A.^red to
wl™r or ? *'" '■;^'^'^ ""■ '-''^y ^^ *^"- contracted S *^
Mateinan for the priA-ilege of usnig his boat as a brid-e-its stem
ad the fellow backed out into the harbor. I told hi. i in French tl^
all Ave Avanted Ava.s to walk over his tlnvarts and ^,ep aslu re an .sS
i" tr ,:r''^d^r"'T?^^/ Hesaidheiuld J;i:S
me. liepeated. Still he cculd not understand. He aDoeared t.. J,p
very ignorant of French. The doctor tried him but e c n ll r.^?
understand the doctor. I asked this boatman to ex 1^111^0 d"^'
^vluch he did ; and then I couldn't understand him. Dan said '
Oh, go to the pier, you old fool-that's where we Avant to go '"
We reasoned calmly with Dan that it Avas useless to snr-,!-' fn +!.•„
foreigner in English-that he had better let us ^rdu^ 'tJii? Win st
tlie Irench language, and not let the stranger .see how uncultivllled ^e
, " Well, go on, go on," he said, " don't mind me I dan't wish tn
interfere. Only, if you go on telling him in vour kind oT Fi^nch I e
never will hud out Avhere Ave Avant to go to.^ That is what I tnk
_ We rebuked him severely for this remark, and said Ave never knew -m
" Tliere, HOW, Dan lie saya he is Roiiig to alkz to tlie ,h,uu,t Mei,,^
This Avas a crasher, as Jack Avould sav It silpi,PP,l-f„v(-i.„. -x- •
^m the disaffected member. We coastS palt tS^t^b t^ Jl^
of great steamships, and -stopped at la.st at a government buildhion^
■stone iner. It Avas easy to remember then, that the rfo. J^^s the
.ustom-house, and not the hotel. We did not mention i^how aS
With winning irench pohtoness, the office,^ merely opened and cToTed
niiST SUPPEU IN FRANCE. (53
we Htoppea at tJie tirst calo avg ciiiiie to, and entpi-pfl \„ r>u ,.
seated UH nt a table and waited for orders.' The Si said """"
" Avez vuus du vm ?"
The dame looked perplexed The (htcfi^r v^M , • -.i , ,
distinctness of articdation: • '-gam, with elaborate
" Avez-vons dn — vin 1"
The dame looked more perplexed than before I siid •
"Doctor^ there is a flaw in yonr pronnneiation somewhere 1 et n,«
%!Z, Madame, avoz-vons dn vin I It isn't any nse, dooSLtaSZ
bem'e-de?.r"dri::l;f 1"~'" ^--^^-P-— piokled pigs' feet-
i.enne cies ath— dn l>euf— horse-radish, sonr-cront, ho-r „nd hominv
'"i^iJ^'Sd""' ''"^ "^ *'" ^''''' *^"^ ^"" ^^^^y ^ Christian lln;!^;^-
" Bless yon, why didn't yon speak En<dish before?—! <lnn'+ J-
thing abont yonr plagned French !" " * ^^""'"^ ^"'^
The Inimiliating tannts of the dicalfeeted member ^i.ml.rl +1
Here we were m be,„rtif„l F™„ee-m J y,u,t stone 1, , « ,!f ■ .
«rcht<,ct„re-smi-o,mde,l l,y .,11 m,„mer of " ,WK- Zlrf lli''"''^'
«g,«-staved at by »tn,.,gelv in,bite,l, beaded PraXLl ! T"^'
!r.itt t^zz :™.;t,r'f e" 'r- '"""^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
think of this skinny veteran intrnding with her vile EnXr .f I
moment, to blow the fair vision to the winds ! I vaf x ;rfti ^^ '"
We set out to find the centre of the citv inonbi.ril.! r ^ !^ ^•
now and then. We never did sncceed !n l^Xl^^tZ^J'^Z
Jtist exactly what we wanted, and neither di\l we evev "^"'""^ ""^
comprehending just exactly what they saicHi Irv-bnt tW^l "'
pointed-^.ey always did that, and we bowed politely an sa i^' m3'
Monsieur," and so it was a blighting triumph o4r the di^ ff-^i^i i f "'
What did the pirate say '" •
;; ye»^l;t *lt"di:'i;:".;"?.'° ="■ *" «™' "'« ^-^ «'™»-"
"Oh, It don't matter what he said— ius understood him Ti
educrjed people-not like that absurd boatman '' ' ^^'^''' '"'«
Well, I wash they were educated enouLdi to tell n ni>i,. , r .•
that goes .0,.. where-for we've been going around hiTeirci?'''"''"''
hour-I'ye passed this same old drug store seven t^es'' "'^' "' "^
we said It was a low, disreputable falsehood, (but we knew it w«. ^ \
"c iiii^iiT. go on asking lin-ectioiis, but we must cp-xj-^ f.v^^. f n '■°"
^.^J,,o.„ti„,. if .eho„ed to Ce'ok the .^So":'';, 'JC'dSS
64
A FRENCH V SCENR.
I.o,.sean,l every u k X f 111^^ ^'-^'-colore.l «tone-every
principal tLoron-rir,:; '- ^ 1 yl'to.I,-hrought us at lant to the
the Hide-H-alks--1 rn J: ^i ^ ■•":;'^ ";"; '"•'* ^^-"«» tla-onginj
lauditer every where' ' \v! V ""^ \\^ ' . f^'^«rf"l»e««. conveiuition a..,l
occu,;ations^venVh^,^,Towecvn f' l"? T T'"" '^""'' ^^^'"t o"r
or single, lanv .ve 1 k • t W , ' ''' "''''^''' ^' ''''' "'""'i^^l
and when we evpecte o . et tht 7"''' ''''!'" '^'"" ^^^"''^ ^"""'l l"'"
similar in^poita^e all L^ tl.e T. !' S !■ ff" ^^T^ "^^ i"fonn..tion of
police. Wo ml ...uie L .^" ""•"^"•<* *^"'^ *^'^ «««'•«*
imniediatelv. Th t Hrsf Zh n f"^"',' *-f ^"'''''''' °^ -si^'lit-seein.^
not think of Imlf L^;L ef! " vn rS' "'' T': '^ ^*'"'"'^' ""«• ^ -'-
^-e had no disposition to evm in ,.f' .^ f* '"'" l*^''^^'''^>''-^y «aw :
only wante<l to -dance and '^: t I '"*" '"^^ *^'"^« '^^ ^^"-^"^^
the country was u Zu W^s^t T''~^'X "'"^■"'«' ' ^^^'« ^l^^"* «f
gi-eat Casino, an ^c lie i for un tL T 1 '''""' ^* 'I ^"*^ ^'«"^' i" «^«
bloated aristocrat wl ere it cZ ll "^'^*"» ''• ^* ''^ "' ^'^'^^ *« ^^^
Hbont five hundred o le i^. t"at ^^,.1^ ^"7"""'' ^ '''^"^•^' ^^'«-
walls bein- pa,,ered entirtiv w fl, , " ^ ' ^ ""1'^'^"''' *^'""^'J» *be
really tell b nt \l ' tSe wer 1 r'l ' ii" *" ''"'"^' ^""^ ^^^^^^^ "ot
drussed exquisite! an Tom ?s^v si"] '" i "''""^' ^'"""=' ^^^^"^^^1^
men and old lad es t in S^;,' i '*'"'' ^T'^"' '^"'^ '-^^^^ ^^'^ ^"^"tie-
topped tables, a K kte f. cv s 1 ^''^'P^ about innumerable naarble-
<liu of couve^a on Ir ; w:L Z-r: V Tl '""' ""^' ^^1'* "1^ ''^ chattering
the far end, ondTlnre ^.^f^"^ *"/^" '''''''■ ^^^"'^'^ ^^'^« ^^ «tage at
nctresses in prel Ku^ co m J .b ' ''""^ ""' "'"' *^'^" ■•^ctors'^and
extrava^^ntl^i;™ ;r L r " S- l'^^ ?"' .""^ ^^''^ "^«^^
uudience merely su^pendecl it^ £4'' ^ S jSf^r ^ '"' ''"*
snnled, never once aonl'iudp,] ' t i i i ''^ '"<^'^^0 . and never once
wex^r^ady tolavlth^tnySlin./ '"^ "'^^^^« *J-"^''* *!-* ^-ndnnen
CHAPTER XI.
"IT^E m-e yetting forei-niml rapidly, au<l y.hv I'u iiitv W
iLr ;;sr: ;;Lt;i;;;;-i,fct;';^T t''""'r"<''^
witli a sliarpness that is dinthZJlu V •' ^'■""' ^^ '^'^^« J'^'^'l^
..sed to tidy! noiseless ^Jt::!:.^:^^^^;;^^;'--^./'' --getting
"bout your back and your elh'ows like WtteiSe . r'' ""'^ Y'''''
orders, quick to fill tl em- t].,n.I-P„lf,, '""""'''• 'I'.nek to cominvlHmd
long e,m,gl,, a,,,l tl,™, „f co„„o, „„ „„„„vi„:. S V fel ,™-v r
straw-berrv Die and iV^ nvL,., . +1 '^ ^^iLct^n ana salad theu
"Imonds, /c.'I llv coffee W,,,!*"''''''' "S"' I""""'' °""'»°-' "'»•<-!.
4 ''^1
66
" AN AMERICAN, SIK !"
l!IN(lI.\(i FOU KOAP,
UliolL
feroi-H wort) killed, or
crij.j'Ied, or iH-uisod, oi'
Old) sciired, is nuie thua
I can possil.jv ]iijd:o out,
and j,,t 1 svov.M ju.^t
giv'O tiny tliiin,' to know.
_ Wo M-ere tn^-djltMl u
little at d,aner to-day,
by the coudvct of uii
j*-riienciin, Iio talked
very loudly uiid coiirsc^ly,
and liui^'Iied boisteronHlv
where nil otlier.s wen! so
quiet and Avell-behaved.
He ordered wine with a
royal floiiiish, and .said :
"I never dine without
wine, sir," (which was
a pitiful falsehood,) and
lineal .hscend-mt of vT ' " ? '^''^ ''"^ '""''^'^^" ^^'^^^ 1'^' ^^"^ »
hiH todlin'S '^"''"' '''"' ''"* ^-"T ''o.iy knew that with.ut
i>.SnnL;:™j;;,:;-,:^S^S* ^7r?' '^^■'^"'•: ^'f'-' -^^^"
Bo-.r..lv .nwl ,•+. , • Mi.uie-tiee.i— and have visited the (^liaTei-u
<lo,d.t. TS^<IeHcate l^ti ^^'^ *''"* :^-'!^ ^^^^^^ "^ Mra-seilk-x. no
ha.! their 1 ou .] oW 'd^^^ '•'"'•, ^^""«' "' ^^'"^^^'^ ^■•^"l^'^- '^ul
111 ji iiuuh.noia gods and kitchen utensils with flier. Tl,,:. ,; • i
with t„ft.,' o^M i„,,t b , ' "° *■' '''■"■'": J«'y. " "'™k».v "nKimenteJ
8TKAX(ii: CnMnANIoNSIII!'.
07
.4^ ^i
Hl.K,i.,..l f;,nva .1 ,. lit I,., MI..I ook..,i as if 1... luW l.is hau.I. muh; Irs .., .
t.uk SuH, tra„,,ml s.„p..lity, sud, .s„,K.n.atural ^nnvitv. such t"
imnce aii-l attitu.l« of that icmy-l,u.li,.,l. .(,.rk-wi,..,..l Iml h ,?h . >
W . u s.alyahn„t th,- ...s ; y.-t so s,>.,..u., so .msi^^lkalli; safi M.^
H. ^.s the n)ost oouju-al looku,. creature that can iK.i.na.iu;.!. It u .i
l..u;;ht.-r hu, not W.n hca.-.I .•nnon;;. our oxrnrsiunists since our shi . ^, ] i
n«iat.. ,1 [ for-rot to niak. honurahl.. ninitioa of hiu, in thos,. „a.res
Our. was a j, ..as.uv excursion ; th. r.fu.v we stayed with th a^. f an
«>•"•, j.n.l n.ulo the ,nost of hi,n. W. stim.l ',im u,, uceasi n-J
u; only nnclose<l an eye an.l sh.wlv el.vsr.l it .,..ain, al.atin-/ "io '
Ins stately piety of .len.eanor or hi; t.ene n,Ious\.rio s,:!"" I e 1 ^
seenu. tosay, " 1 Mile not Heave^.'s anointe.l with unsanetiti..,! h nl ^'
AVe (h.l not know his name, and .so we caUe.l hi the Pih^nn, " ] .,'„
said : -,■■"■■. iv.ui
''All h(! want'; now is a Plvnunith Collection."
ihe l.oon con>i«uaon of the colo.s.sal ele],hant was a eonunon cat ' This
cat ha, a fasluon of dunhing np th<. .......hanfs hind le.-s. and n os .
on h,s oack. Whe_ would sit up there, with her paws enrve<l uSS
S;t''; tT '" m' ""'^r;'* ^'"; '^"™*'"' ^^•-•^•^ -'-v ^'
wn l^v ', "!'.'• ''^' ^^'^'"l- '•'-=^'^•1' "l-and take her down, hut she
^vo.dd ; o alt and clunh up again. She persisted until s],.. fiiiallv con-
quo.-Uhe elephant s prejudices, and n.w they are inseparable f ie I
Tlie cat plays about her comrade's forefeet, or his trunk o'ften, unti d Is
HI>proach, an.l then she .^o^s aloft out of ,Iau^..r. The ,.1 . , t has
«un,hdat.d sevend do.a lately, that pressed his JLn.panion ilo eiiSv
sm n i !'?"l '• "'! T ;""' '" ^"'''"' r"^ "'^"''^ '^" t^xcursion to one ot^ the
«m.dl isla.n.ls ni the hurhor to visit the Tascle d'If. This an.a-.nt fortres
has a, me hncholy his..,,-. It ha.!,... „.ed as a pris, Lr ,!ji^
o(iendo.rs for two or three h„nd-ed y,..:.. and its hn.-eon w dls
jnirred with the rn.lely carvel names of many and manv a ca^ ve w .
tretted hiH lite riw;iy hers, a.ud left m ' " ' ' •'■ ■ ^
) "■ecord
,1 .
nt himsaif hnt the.se sad
ep qj s .■rou.ht w. h las own ia.ds. Ifow iLidc the names we«
AiHl their hmg-departcd owners seemed to xhvon;^ the -loo,,, v cells and
corridors with tlieir phantom shapes. We loiterc-d thro.Jh dun-^em aft
mrned. >^nes eveiy where l-aome jdd.ian, some noble, some even
princely. Plebian, pnnco, and noble, had one .solicitude in eonunon"
they wouhl not be forgotten I They cordd s..lK-r solitude, inactiv v and
the horrors of a silence that no souiul ever dish.rbed ; b„t thev .oul'd
bear the thought of being utterly forgotten bv the worhl. 'iW
carve<l names. In one cell, where a little light penetrated, a n'vn
had lived twentv-seven
oars withont seeing the fa
ce of a Inunan
1 . ,. , . - .Tvi.x,, ..iLnuiit ,-,jt;in^ lue lace ot a nwien
bemg-hve<l m tilth an<l wretchedness, with no oo.upm.i;:;;';;;;
..k
. i ■
^r-i)
'1*
"i,
I I
68
ll'-.NCK.IX OK Tin: " IKON MASK.'
iM.t I.IS „UM tl,nu..l.ts. tlu-v W,.,V «,„TOWn.l ..Unn,l .,1 UnUvlvHH
^ -n^jK n., .loul.t WI.,.t..vo,. Lis Jailors nn..:^, ...v.l ( lo
"".. r. ,., tl.o walls „f l.is i.ri.s.,. .„so from Hour to roof with all
naum.r o h^u.-s of .n.u an-l uai.nuls, «ro„,..:l in intricate .Lsi-. s If
1 "o 1 . r'V'T'" "^"'^""■- "^ ''' -l«-PI-Mt.... task. whiK, intaa^
«...« to 1 ..vi.uod to v.,r„ro„s yowtli i,ll,.,l tl.r.mj;h > H.ool an.l colh-ro-.
Ho.im,v,l a ,,rof..ss,on-..lai.n.Ml n.ans mature estat^-.nani,..! an ^ L.l
A ho shall t..|l hmv .nai.v a.^vs ,t s,r„H..l to this prisoiuT I With th. oih-
.-■ (I;«vv sona.tnM..s ; with tho othcT, nover-it crawlo.l ahvavs. ''o I ,;
one, luyhtH s,K.nt u, .laudu;. had soon.cd ...n.l.. of nnuntos' Inst. , U^
hom-s ; to thn othn- thos,. solf-saM.. ni.hts ha.I Ih.,. liko all otl r ,u h
o .Iun.,.on ,1... ami s....,,...! ,ua,l. of slow, .Ira.^.i,.:, uv-ks, inst, d if
hours and uunutes. ' " ^''
/>''<M>H«m.r<,fHft,.,.uy.'arsha.lscTat..lH.d vrrsrsupou his walls -.nd
hir i;-V;-^-7-'"-'t- l.Mt tull of pathos. Theso H,,ok ;
un .It and ]ns hard .st.rt,.; I.ut only of the .shrin- wJu-r. lis spirit thv
tho pnson to worslu,. uf hun.o and tin. idols that w.r,. t.-n.^l'd thero
H(i never lived to see th(«ui. ' u'^^n..
Th.. w.dls of these ,lun-eons are as tliick as some I.e.l-eliandnM's at
home are nude ifteen feet. We saw the dan.i., disu.al cells in hi •
woof puma.s' heroes passed their oonlinen.'nt -heroes of Mot
n-,sto. It was here that the brave Abho wrote a hook with h so
.loud; With a pen nmde of a piece of iron hoop, an.l l.v the li-d.t of
hmp made out of shreds of cloth soaked in ^r'ease ohtaim-d lim ds
food: and then dn,,^ throu,,d. the thick wall with some trith-mr in.strume t
MC^U.e wrought hMHs.. font of a stray piece „f iron or table cutl r"
<lienry labor should li;ive come to nau-ht at last.
They showed us the noisome cell where the celebrated "Iron ^fask"—
tl^iat dl-starn.d brother of a har.I-hearted king of France, was contlned
for a season, before he Mas .sent to hide the strange mvstm-v of his life
from the curious m the dungeons of St. Marguerite. 'The" place had a
far greater mterest for us than it oouhl have had if we had known bevmu
al question who the Iron Mask was, and what his historv had beenfa
v^ ly this most unusual punishment had b(>en meted out to Jiim. :^rvs erv <
that heart so freighted with unspoken troubles, and that )>reast so
oj-presscd with its piteous secret, had been here. These dank walls had
known the man wJiose story is a sealed book forever! There was ftsci
nation 111 the spot.
^ll.'
C'lr APT M II
\ T }•.
We know, tl,o„, wl,„t tl„. |,„rt „„,„it, vvl,»„ 1„. »,„« „r
" — tliy .onilioMs Ki-oi-it, .nx) sunny vines.
O i'lfiisi-ut Innil oC Fnmri- : ■■
J irney quicke, l.y so doing. It ,.s hard to make railroading pleasant,
Sli
h '
«l I
if'
70
PECULIARITIES OF FUENCII CAKS.
"V"7 /'^'"^*^"'' "^* '■'* too tedious. Htage-coiicliiii-j; is infinitely more
deli^'Iitfiil. Once I crosscl the pliius iur.l d-serts luul mountains' of tlie
West, ni il stuge-coaeli, from tlie Missouri line to California, and since
then all my j.leasure trips must 1)3 measured to tJiat rare holiday frolic
Two tliousand miles of ceaseless rush and rattk; and clatter, hy ui-ht and
l)y day, and never a weary moment, never a lapse of interest ' fjie lirst
seven hundred miles a level coiitinent, its grassv carpet greener and
soiter and smoother than any sea, and figured with designs fitted to its
magnitude— the shadows of the clouds. Here were no scenes but summer
scenes, and no disposition inspired by them but to lie at full length on the
mail sacks, in the grateful breeze, and dreamily snio!:e the pipe" of peace
—what other, where all was repose and contentment I In cool mornin<^s
before tlie sun M^as fairly up, it was worth a lifetime of city toiliu'v and
moiling, to perch in the foretop with the driver and see the six mustan-s
SL-amper under the shaq) s!iapi)ing of a whii) that never touched thein •
to scan the blue distances of a world tiiat knew no lords but us- to cleave
the wind with uncovered head and feel tlie sluggish pulses rousin>- to the
spirit of a si)3ed tint pretended to the resistless rush of a typlioon' Then
thirteen hundred milei of des3rt solitudes ; of liruitless "i.auoramas of
bewildering per.spective; ofmimic cities, of i)inacled cxfchedrals, of massive
fortrass;^,s, c:raat3rfeit3.l in the eternal rocks and s'.leudid with the crimson
and gold of the setting sun; of dizzy altitudes a-uon.c fog-wreathed
peaks, an<l never-melting snows, where thunders and lightniiv'rs and tem-
pests warred magnificently at oar feet, and the storm-clouds above
swung their shredded banners in our very faces I
But I forgot. I am in elegant France, now, and not skurrviiw
through the great South Pass and tae Wind llivcr Mountains, amonr^
anteloi)es and biilialoes, and painted Indians on the war path. It is not
meet that I should make too disparaging coaiDarisons between hum-drum
travel on a railway and that royal summer Hight across >i continent in a
stage coach. I meant in the beginning, to say that railway iourneyin-'
IS tedious and tiresome, and so it is— though at the time I was thinking
particularly of a dismal fifty-hour jjilgrima.'e betw-en New York and Ht^
Louis. Of course our trip" throagli ' France! was not really tedious, be-
cause all its scenes and experiences were new and strange": but as Dan
says it his its " discrepancies."
The cars are bailt in compartments that hold eight p3rs(nis each
iiaek compartment is i)artially subdivided, and so there are two tohrably
distinct parties of four in it. Four face the other four. The seats and
back are thickly padded ;:.d cushioned, and are very cjinfovtablo ; you
can smok3, if you wish ; there are nj bothersome pedlers ; you are saved
tiie infliction of a multitude of disigreeable fellow-passengars. So far so
well. But then the conit.ictor locks you in when the tram stirts ; there
IS no water tj drink, in t!i3 cir; there i-, n3 heating apparatus for ni<'lit
travel ; if a drunken rowdy shoul 1 get in, you could not remove a matter
ot twenty seats from him, or enter anotlier car ; but above all, if you are
^yorn out and must .ieep, you must sif up and do it in naps, with cramped
THIUTV MINITES FOR DINNER '."
71
)u SkUlTVlUL'
legs and in a torturing misery tliat leaves you withered and lifelsss tlie
next day—for behold they have not that culmination of charitv and
Inunan knidness, a sleeping car, in all Finance. I prefer the American
system. It has not so many grievous " discrepancies "
In Fi'ance, all is clockwork, all is order. Thev"make no mistakes,
^.very tlurd man weai-s a uniform, a.ud v/hether he be a ^larsliall of tlie
Lmpu'e or a brakemaii, he is ready and perfectly willing to answer
al your (piestions with tireless politeness, ready to tell you 'which , , r to
take yea, and ready t(. go and put you into it to nuike sure thac you
sliall not go astray. You cannot i..ass into the waiting-room of thr. dcLt
til you have secured your ticket, and yuu can not pass from its only evit
til tlie tram is at its threshold to receive you. Once on board, tlie' train
wi 1 nut start till your ticket has been e.vamiued— till evcrv n;,ss^ui<-ei-'s
ticket has been inspected. This is cJiietlv for vour own goo 1 If bv
any pc.ssibihty you have managed to take the wrong train, you will be
Jian. led over to a polite official who will take you whitlier y..-,, belou.r
and bestow you with many an alfable b^w. You\- ticket v.-ill be iuspeetnl
every iiow and then along the route, and when it is time to ehan-M cai-s
you will know it. You are in the hands of officials who zealously^ study
your welfare and your interest, instead of turning their talents' to the
uivontiou of new methods of disconnuoding and snul)bin<.- vou. i.s is verv
often the mam employmont of that exc(3edinglv self-.satisfied laonarcli
uie railroad conductor of America. ' '
But the hrppiest regulation for French railway .wverimunit, is— tliirtv
laumtes to duuier I No five-minute boltings of liabby rolls, m.tddv coflee.
questionable eggs, gutta-percha beef, and i)ies wliose roncoi-tion and
execution ai-e a dark and bloody mystery to all save the rook that
created them I No ; we sa.t oalndy down-:t was in old Dijon, whi.h is
so easy to spell and so impossible to pronounce, except whei\ vou <Mvili2o
It and call it Demijohn— and poured out rich I!ur..'undi;'.i^nn.s and
munched calmly through a long table d'hote bill of 'fare, snail-onttie.s,
delicious fruits and all, then J.aid the trifie it cost, and ste-.p.^d hapinlv
aboard the tram again, ^vithout onc« cursing iIr. railroad com- .any A
rare experience, and one to be tivasured foivver. ' " '
They say they do not have accidents on the.se French roads, a-id I think
1^ nmst be true. If I remember rightly, we passed hii;h al)ove wa-on
roads or tlirough tunnels under them, but never crossed them on their
own level. About every quarter of a mile, it seemed to me, a man came
out and held up a clul) till the train went by. to signify that every thintf
was safe ahead. Switches were changed a mile in advance, by la'illin..- a
Avn-e rope that passes along the ground by the rail, from sttitionto stution.
Signals for the day and .signals for the ni-ht -ave constant end tin. Iv
notice of the position of switches. " " " "'^
No, they have no railroad accidents to speal: of in Fivmce. But wliv I
iiecau.se when one occurs, sonieboil;/ has to hang foi- it !* Isot han- m'ey
tlicrcitftfi
I'.vm.S AT LAST.
Tlio 01,1 Trav.l.r.:^X. r.W 1 H- ' *^'' '"-""'^'' "'"^t '"'^^^^«'--
",-v '"• ^•^e.■ ^vill kiH>w,-t h tie c tl . '•' T ^'";'' ^^"l'"''^^'^ ^'^"^"'^
tl'-y nv. pleasant things to eHe ^' T^' '""' ^^■" '"'I'^'ve tl.e.u heeanse
«H.vur of the ri^in .„, ^"S-m to hw^V because, they are plau.il.le and
every when,. ' ''"' '""^ "'■•'^■'' ^^'"^'I' "v l-ehold ahuut us
^:::/z l;v:^!n^^rt:;u ^ ^'^^•'' ^^ '-^-^^ i"— <'
alway,s(!„<,u.o,n,a tW feelers tl' "'""""^ ''' ''' ^^'''''- Tl.ey
tl.cyh:noannHl<.l.v.:^v uM^^ ^f themselves adrift tiH
Thou tlH-y o.K'a their tlu^o 1 V K- 1 ?"'" *"* ^" ''='^^ ""* t^'^^^-'^l^d.
«n.l swell, and soar, nutX'^^^ '"""- '"'^' «»--'-
central idea, rheir .^rand a is t ' 1 "T"'^ 'T" *'^ ^^'^^^ ' 'J^l'^ir
y^^u feel insi.nific;u.t al.d W ; " /' tflf":' 'ri", ^"" ^'^^"'' '-^e
glo^y! .They will not let you kulnythlnT, ^'"" ^'"■'^'"•^P^^tan
inoffeuHivo sno-gostions • thev Ln .^ .m,7 i T ^'''^' ■'''^'■'' "* y»"»' I'^st
of fV.rei.n landi:; the, i.W U^-^H^'K '"' ^""^' ^^'^''^'^--l <l^ea.ns
"'>ele,s as the stuj.ide t .Cnli L tW^I^'"- f ^''''' ''"'''-'^''^ ^^"'^t^ ""^l
a^Kl deniolish the fair iniatrttf h J^ *"'«te^l '^"thors
with the pitiless ferocity of «ef„' "^'i ^"' ^''"'"" ^^''"•"^ ^™r,ship
Old Travelers. I love he n ^ 1^""' ,''*• .^"* ^^^" ^ ^^^'^ ^^^^
«^.l.crnatura! ability to Lore for I^ir S.^^l" ^^''^''''^''' ' ^-' *'-"'
Inxuriant fertility of inia.dn itio fo tf .''"' r"' '■""^*-^'5 ^^' ^J^^""
their overwhehning ineudacily t ' """ "*'^'*^'"^^' *^»'"- ^""i^nt,.
Melun, Foutainebleau. and Lrernf n 'i "If ''*' ^'^^'^^We Sens,
«^vays noting, the abse ce of L n"'" •^•^""*'^"1 cities, we swept
X"4>uinted].o,^esancI nruidalt?r ?•'"' '"'''^''' ^■^"«^«' «°^-Iots
cleanliness, grace, tast;u^:-7,:.";;!"^fV":* ^^^^"' *'- n-senoe of
mtion of a tree or the turn n^of ^ l^e;">tifynig, even to the dispo-
fcpair, ^-oid of ruts am "ties i^f ev^"' '^'' • "''"^'^l «^ ''"^^^'^ "» P^^^ct
bowled along, hour after wTLm u f ' "^^^l^^litj of suiface-we
-I'proaehed we eu^ ed w hie^tss o ^ 1 '""T '''^ ' '""' ^^'^ -^**f*^"
«ped through it, and then, S ^ letl^^^^^^^^^^^ and sln.bbery,
-;^onlythespo. of a ^e^mt^^Ct^^^^SZ^X::^
^nng intrusion of s^n-ic^^ b^ ^tT^il^lrt^ Ser ^^S^
«sl.emlt]>em to th .d f tuv^v^ri^' 1 ' '''"n^ the passengers aiul
where to deliver then 1^ .r^ ' ' • . J-'"'?''''^ '^"*' *"^'^ *''*^ "J'-ivf.'
about overeh..in,, 1 .n^O^i^^:;;;. ^^-l^: r'^ii/ll^^^-'^^f f -'
were speeihn"' t iroii'.!i II-,. vH.,of *• u •' ^" "f- J-U a little M-hile we
oevtai,/n.nu.:.na;;ii:';;,;t^:th1ikst.^^
we knew its -ietu e 1^^ ^ " Ti If^'^f ^'^ *''^' ^"''"''^ ^'^ ^^'^^IJ ^^«
the grim Bastile, t I ^^^l, \^^ l^^ '" ^'^V"^ ^^" "''^ ""^^' "too.l
prison-house within wh e , 1 '"'"■' '""' ^"M'l'iness, chat disnu.l
wrinkh.s of a,e, so IrZ S "" > """^' T""- ^'''' 1'"* -» ^he
hearts broke. ' ^ "'"' ^i^""*'' -'•''^^' '^'""''''N -'> ^any l.ravo
on^::::'^ tiar w ":!;;i.l't\^^' -^^-•' -^-^ ^hree b<.ls put into
vestauranMust aft^l f l,^- , "^ 1 'V""' '^""" "^' ^^'^"^^ ^'^ to .
linsei-ino- r inier Tt f '^ '' ""1 '*" '' con>fortabh,, satisfactory,
tid?, the food sow. :2^ ^S'w^Uc^! "^* ^I^f'-^ T'-y *^'"'^ -- -'
departin,^ company so r^usaceVr r 1'"^'*^:.'^'"' ^^'^^ ^'O'"!",^' "nd
wonderfully F.en4>' 4 u,^^ '" ^'f ^'' •'^^ '^<h,ble, so fearfully an.I
Twohundi;d]>ec.,,les;tTt itlle. l''"' T ""■?'' -''y '""^ ^nHyening.
coffee; the strL i t^^r^^tZ J^" f ^?""'^' ^'I'l'"^^ ^^-^'^ -^^
•seekers; there was nmsic 7 he , Y ^^ '*/''^''^'^'" '"^^ ■'^■>-«"'^ 1'1«^^«"^-''
confla^nUion of .asl^^l^'e^e^y;;;^^''^ ""' '"*"" "" "'-"* "^ -'<• '>
brilliant streets and looked .f'.; , 7-!, ^^^V'^^ered through the
jewelry shops. OccLion li ,-,. 1 ^ {, '"^'' '" ™'^y «t«^^« ^'^1
put unoffending Fm S 'on the ';TT ^^'.^l''^'^^"^'': -^ '^e"'^' cruel, we
incompreliensibfe jaro-on ot' le r , Sv '''*^' ^^"'^*^^"-'^ ^'^''"^'^^^ "' tl^«
we impaled them .^enne e " '^'^""»''' '""^ ^^''"^ tl>ey writhed,
vile verbs and imirclpies^''' *^'''''' ^^'^ ««'»-i«-l them, witlftheir own
gemune article, the XyeSi^^ *?^^^*'^ *«" f"!^'^ gol<' from the
work duly labeled with the^^^^^^^ ^'^^f^''-^' '""^ their imitation
would no( dare to viokt thif aw uUh- fwl "^ *°^' "'^ ^'^^ J^'^^'^^'^
"1 one of their stores mi^dit be U, , i ''^'"*^\"' * «tmiger bought
was represented to be -^^Verily To W '\T T- ^T^ "*"^*^J^ ^^^^^^^ i*
Tl-n we ,„„ted for a S^I^P^^^ Si^t^rr ' "M , ,
" --^>«^ -bitiou Of mine to bethavSr^^:^-^-^^;^^^^^
,M
%---i
74
A BARBAROUS ATROCITV.
their sto.; eyes, and ic^^i I ;lf::^|^'S^ tS;:^-
iiauccx. Wo sliuiiue-I tliPs.> vi,n.. f V"" ,^ ^^^"^« of their counte-
could had 110 siivde ]e<dtini-<» «.,„.?; * ||"^' "•'! <J i^s as \ve!l, jjjuce we
1 .s:u<l J Wiuitod to 1h^ .sliaved TIip )i.,-.i„ ,. • • i i
.q, of .■„.„,.' from ot;; ?;,'=*" ™^^^^
toot iiHto ;, little ,,,.„, '','',,':"■' V '''*'""' '"'■ ~":'' ^i-'^ttlM,
•sittiHS-roout c 'v,;;,5 inctd* ^M^ '-"om ; thoy got t„-„ om,J.
old .hjao, of b,iH„ v,,™;i!;So ti ■;: ^,';.™" ""'* "■■"■ """^< <■"■ ^^y °w.
vHLSS,Si;;yfi::j!fo!^t:;;t-si'j:'!r''";- "';^°^'■"' '"-■'■"'<'"«
cheeks, now-lud ti^^; I.^^ ,;, ^ ^;^t-^^-7 5---^ ^'owu my
a basin of Avater undn mv n I i ^ "^ mcinieut assassin held
of washm-' awav the so'in m,,! l>l«o '7 ,°\' ^^'^^^ '^ ''^ean pretence
.oy,el, and',.,,, fc^i. , t^^c , v t ■. , ^ tlS-J^Vf""" "',* ^
said \y th with-riii" iroi.v tl,.,^ ,-;\ \t: • ' ^"^ ^^ excused, x
to be scalped ' " ' ' ""' '"*^""^* to beskuniod-Ideelmeu
neve:tvrL!in.^;:^ ;f 1 "^ luuidkerchief about my f .o, and
■any, no:.. Tli^'n th ^ t^ T K-""" "' ^f''f ^'^^'^^^^^^ bavbei-shops
is as 1 ];av.. ,smce found out, that they have no
(JASTLY EXPERIEXCK.*
75
barber s^iops worthy of tlie name, in Paris-and no barbers, eithe,' for
tliat matter. The impostor ^vlio does duty as a barber, hnUhS'.Z
and napkins and imp emont.s of torture to you,- residence and deliberi ely
sknis you m your private apartments. Ali, I have surtered, suSf
suffered, liere la Pans }.nt never mind-the time is coming wlien i
sliall have a dark and bloody revenge. 8ome day a Parisian barbe iwiU
come to my room to skm me, and from that day fortli tliat barbe will
never be lieard of more. 'oi"*-! wiu
At eleven o'clock we alighted upon a sign which manifestly referred to
Inlhards Joy I We had played billiards in the Azcres with ball thS
were not round, and on an ancient table that was very little smoo er
than a brick pavement-one of these wretched old things with d«ul
cushions and with patches in the faded cloth and invisible' c>^ struct ons
that made the b:dls describe the most astonishing and unsuspected an des
"tS?^ ST "^ '^" ^7 f -mlooked-fb; and aimoi imj.o:;^
sciatches that were perfectly bewildering. Wo had slaved xf
Gibra t..r wrth balls the si.e of a walnut, on a 'table like a ^ubH V uu^
-and in both instances v. acliieved far more aggravatioi/than anm e
Sons l:;'^'"'" '^' "" !""^i' ^"'•':' ''''' ^^^'^^ --*=^ken. Tie
a <t
,. ,. . , "^°"^'^=^lHi?li<-'i- than the balls, and as the balls "had a
ashion of always .stopping under the cusliion, we accomplished very
ttle in the way of caroms. The cusldons .vere hard and unelastic, and
the cues were so crooked that in making a shot you had to allow for Sa
curv^e or you would infallibly put the '' Euglish" on the w oZ Sle «?
the bad. Dan was to mark while the doctor and I played. A^ the end
of an hour neither of us had made a count, and so Dan was thl of
keeping tally with not ang to tally, and ^, were heated and ano,./ nid
disgusted. ^^ e p.nd the heavy bill-about .,x cents-and said we lo d
can around some time when we had a week to s,, end, and linisli the game
We adjourned to one of those petty cafes and took supper and tested
he wines of the country, as we liad been instructed to co, and found
? we bT r' "'"I "r"f "'S'- J^''^ ""^'''* ^'■""■^ ^^'^^^ --^^^S, however
It we had chosen to drink a. sufficiency of them
To clo.se our first day in Paris clieerfully and pleasantly, we now sou-ht
our grand room in the Grand Hotel du Louvre and climbed into .ar
wimptuous bed, to read and smoke- but alas '.
It WHS pitifu],
111 11 wliuk' oity-full,
Gas we liad uoi.'e.
wi^irl^T. ^"^ "''"^ Jn--nothing but dismal candles. It was a shame.
•^ G^uide I". 7^^-°" '""'"fTl ^f'^'' ''''''^'' ■> ''' I»"^^^«d over French
head o • t il n?';i ' "''u'"^'"'^ ^li».)omtedIy, in a vain endeavor to make
^li ll. 1 r • 1 1 . ''''^'\ '''''•'' '^ ^^'' "^'''y'' ''^' ""d experiences : we
d^^lf^^ f"""'^ '^ •'' '"T '''"^y ^"^^ *"■'>' '" ren<r^ned Paris, .uid
'sleejr ^''^ ^ "'""''^ " '■''"* "^y«*^™"« ^-o"! ^vdiich meA caU
* Joke by the Doctor.
.1 !,
Si
C H A P T E li XIII.
^v-ore up :,.k1 dressed at ten o'clock. We ^unlt
.! the 1,0 eK-I dont kno.- M-hat a eo.ums.ionaire
THH next morning nc
to t]ie conim is.nona '. .
IS, but that is tlje man ve ',v(ni+i. .n ^ +.>i i i • ' ...^.»..,>-,„^,,c
He said the great Inteniatio ml n,u^iwi.^ ""' T'''''^ " -''''■^''■
Englishmen and Aniericanr "V ^1 K t w ^^ITl'" '"'^' ^""1*^^^'^^^^ of
tolinda good guide nne.n|. ;.o,r h"1 ll T I s firf ^T ^T'^^ ''^^
two on I.iand, but lie onh^ ], ul three now Hp n "^ ^''i'* ^^ ^°'"" «^-
«o like a vexy pirate thaM.etn.lnl;o Si::^'' ^'ij^''' '''''^'
with a sim].eringi,recision of pronunciation tint .x-\ . ?• '^"V"^'^
. ;' If ze zhentfemans will to T^X ^o < ile '"' '*?'^' ""'^ •'^"^'' ••
mhees serveece, I .hall show to him every ? h ' tT<!"""' v "'' ''^?''^
much rii u a K "^d it .iit''^^^^ '':n' *'rv^' '^«^'«"'^^ ^- ^^-» ti^'^t
self coniplacency educec him inf. .^"\™"^"^» " '^''^^''- ^ut his
nnexploru E L r and ti L^^^^^^ " "'-lit into regions of
ten secomlB he was so^ ttd nnY '^P^"T"* ""'' ^''' ™"^- Within
:^y" the English^Sft '^iSr-tSH^Sdt
a little old, U^rbtrc^SlXslS " H? '^»"' ^"' '"^ 7'"^^^ ^^^^^
gloves, in good repair, and ca STsmall .Si ''''''f ^'^^^ ^^"^
Iiandle-a female le- of ivorvw/.,*'''' ''''"^ ^^'*^^ ^ curved
a cat crossing rnmddy street • a,S of T'''^ "' «f *'-^ ^"^ ^« d^i^% as
unobtrusive 'self- "ssei^^^^^^^^^ if J??*^!,^'^ T 1"^^*'
andguardedly- andwhenleLIl ;. Z*"*^^^' ^^^ ''Poke softly
t^sponsibiIty,^o;XTng a su "Lt t 1 ''''•^' 'V'*"*^'"^"^ '^^ '^^^ ««'
We were moi-e than chamed^we we,-e mSoved W^ y!'"' «!-• "-rf-
once. We „eve,ev.„ a.l:e,. ,„■„ ,,i, prior'E"; J!!„,|;."tk';'- ,„ ,'
aK-( HKlSTKNlXii tHK FKKNCH.MAX.
77
>nul tl.e other was a l,ompi te We sLT' "'" """""'J^' ^"^""■'''
if. drew from ]n-H pncket-1 o.k n v„olv itS ""', """/ *'""'"-^ '' "'""«•
withaprofuuiKllw- '' "°'^^ '^ ^""^^^ little eanl, a.ul passed it to us
A. lil M, FI NiiKIt,
•'iiiilf to Pans, ]<',,„„,., (;e,,nany,
'//■(//«/ J/a/rl fUi Lotu-rr.
"Billthiger ! Oh, caiTv me liome to die.'"
That was an "aside" from Dan The atrn-.m„c. ,
my ears, too. T],e nK,st of us can ^ Tt^ZFT"^ "TI^ "^
countenance that strikes us unpleasantly at ii.^hntLjl.j f ' "
become reconciled to a jarring name so^easilv T ^ i ' ^ ^'"'''^'
had lured this nnu^ his nanie^ass^unW^^^^^^ T ''""' '"''^ ''^
We werei„.patient to staH. BilllL^ s^i tfr^iS..";' ""!?'"
carriage, and then the doctor said: ^' ^ ''°°' *" *-''>^' "-
"Well, the giiide goes with the barl)er-,s]ioi) wit), +1,^ i -n- i . , ,
with the gasless room, and may he with n ■ v^', . bilhard-table,
Paris, fexpected tJ haye a gull nt^ S«^' ir ^ ^'""'^"'^'^ °^
Armand de la Chartrease, or somethin- th it w ,1 1 ^^V'"*^"^'!^"^. ov
to the yillagers at home; but to ilS''<^f^^,::?r\^''':f "^^^^^^'^
Billfingerl Oh : this is absurd you lal; 'n '*^^ t^'*' "'""^ of
can't say Billlinger; it is na:::itiC ^ ne ^ J!:^ .;;^^^^ ^V" . ?^
we better call himi Alexis du Oauhuncomi ' '' ^""= ''^^"* ^^'^^
" Alphonse Henri Gustaye de Hautoyille," I su.n.este.]
" Call him Ferguson," said Dan. °"
That was ])ractical, unromantic good sense Witl,o„f .U^ ,
expunged Billfinger «. Billlinger, and^called him Fer^n ' """
The carrnige — an open barouche — was i-e^ulv V.,
beside^the driyer, and L whirled .way o 1 i^Jkf.st "Tfw. """"'''^
]Mr. Ferguson stood by to transmit Jur ,r tvl i ^^ l'"""!'^^^'
Byo and^,ye, he mentioned c^lSy- L "ful i" '^"f *^^"^-
would go and get his breakfast JZo^ ^^ u 1^;.^"""''"^' ^^
knew that we could not get along without him • th w *'"'n ^^
want to loiter about m.d wait for him. We^k.l him to sit 7 "'1
eat with us. He begged, ^yith many a bow, to be excu ed T 7" .
mper he .ad; he would sit at anoier table. We or led him ^Z
torily to sit down with us. oiaeiecl liim perem]!-
Here endeth the tlrst lesson. It was a mistake.
.€'
78
sor-u.
As Ion- as we h,vfl that felluw aft3r tliat, he was always huu.r,.v • he
was always thirsty Ho cauiB early ; he stayed late ; he' c.ul.l not pass
a restaurant ; lie looked with a lecherous eve upon every wine shop
Suggestions to stop, excuses to eat an.l to drinlc were fore-."er on his lii/s'
AVe tried all we coul.l to till him so full that he would have no room to
spare for a tortni-ht ; hut it was a failure. He .lid not hold euou-h to
smotlier the eravDiys of his supcfrliumau appetite. "
He had iinother '• disere].ancy" ahout him. He was always wantin-
us to buy thuigs. < )n the shallowest pretences, he would inve'i-de us into
Hhirt stores, l.oot stores, tailor shops, glove shoi.s— any where under the
broad _sw<.(.p ot the heavens that there seemed a chance of our buyin'^
any thing'. Any one could have guessed that the .shopkeei.ers paid'him
a per centage on the sales ; liu.t in our blessed innocence we didn't until
tins leatiir.' ol his conduct grew unbearablv proniiuent. One day Dan
happened to mention that he thought of buying three or four .silk 'dress
patterns for ]. resents. Ferguson's hungry eye was upon him in an instant.
in the course ot twenty minutes the carriage stoDned
" What's this r "
" Zis is ze linest silk magazin in Paris— ze most celeltrate "
''What did you come here for ? We told you to take us to the palace
ot the Louvre. '■
" I^supi)0S3 ze gentleman say he wish to buy some silk."
"You are not rtvpiired to 'suppose' things for the party, Ferguson.
VVe do not wish to tax your energies too much. We will "bear some of
the l)urden and heat of tiie day ourselves. We will endeavor to do such
supposing as is really necessary to be done. Drive on." 80 spake the
do'jtor. '■
Within imsn minutes the carriage halted again, and before another
silK store. The doctor said :
"Ah, the palace of the Louvre: beautiful, beautiful ecUlice ! Dees
^tlie Lmperor Na])oleon live here now, Ferguson ?"
' /V^' ^^'^°^^^' ■ y"iiilo,iest; zis is not ze [ialaco ; we come there directly,
iiut since we i)ass right ]>y zis store, where is such beautiful silk—" " ■
'• Ah : I see, I see. T meant to have told you that we did not wish to
purchase any silks to-day ; but in my absentmindedness I for^'ot it I
also meant to tell you we wished to go directh- to the Louvre • but I
forgot that also. However, we will go there now. Pardon my .seemino-
carelessness, Ferguson. Drive on." "
Within the half hour, we stoj.ped again- in front of another silk
store. We were angry ; but the doctor was always serene, always smooth-
voiced. He said :
"At last ! How imposing the Louvre is, and vet how small ! how
exquisitely fashioned 1 how charmingly situated !-iVenerable, venerable
pile —
" Pairdon, doctor, zis is not ze Louvre — it is "
" Uliat is it ?"
" I have ze idea -it come to me in a r.iomeut— zat ze silk m zis
magazin
THE INTEUXATIU.VAI, KXI'OSITION.
71)
"Ferguson, how lioedlasw I nm. I fniiv i„f„,„i,„i ., , „
id not wish to buv anv Mh. .,..i." ..,'"**"'''*' M*«" y"*' tJ"vt we
did not wish to buy any silks to- ."v ■ n , I " ? , , "" >'"*' *^"^* ^^'^
tho happiness of seeing you cL-ou fo C "kf. t ^hi ?' '* ''f'^''""
KiU'.l mo with pleasurable .uuotionsth'i I .t^ Ht """'''' ^'"'^ ""
of the time. HoAvever w.> S i ^1 the con)n)onest interest
sn.ll minute.' i genSu/l:a'l.it bu; ifT "ll^t ^l "l t'" T
only Zoo/j at 7n r. 11.-^ /„.,/. ,i_, , ,.„ . . y.". '*^_ not wisJi to — bu
one
-- but
[Then ph.'iulin^ufly.]
ony Z...I. at ze silk-W. at ze beautiful fabric
,>,<(;•— just only one leefle nioiuHit '" - -
Dan said, " Confound the idiot • I don't w.nt t,. .„„
and I won'i look at then,. Drive oj A ' ""^' "'^^''^ *"-''*^>^'
it i» too late. I. wau S '^ , ^t. f„ fo ™ w'^r'''"'* ,'" "''■ '.'°''-
liu3 treachei'ous ni's;'T-pfm(- ' iff,,., e ^ i ^
c).«,„,.,g„e,,„H«.ve ,,:,;: 'a «urv. rfi '"■^^'»* '""' '.',"»""" "f
coujitless treasures of ni-t i„ .1, I ,,' ."°,S"' "» siglit of tlio
,.00- little satisftctl"';«"i ' 1 :''XS' rZt t'""^' """ rr"'^
"olit.iry silk ili-oss jinttom i' J«tio,i tliat Fergasoii sol.l „ot a
a
ere
not. Tiie o,,ide.s deceive • i l.f, " ,' ^'^""^'! generaJly are, for we were
fovthelirst\inraS[s^ u'tk 'l:r^ ^'^"^^"-^^ -^- ^^ to Paris
little experienced as ^li'LJ'f '^f^, :!!?'". ^ ^ ^-"1'"^!^ with othen. as
■ iMt laris agam some ilav, and
ni my wa,--i)aint— I slialf carry
little experienced as himself T <.Ip.11 vJ ,•+ t> •
then let the guides beware ! I sidl 'o ' "" ^'''■" ''"'" ^^'^"^'' '^'"*
my tornalnuvk along. '"
I think we have lost but little time in P^n-it^ w^ i
everv night tire,l out Of m,,, ^^"^^.".\ ^ ,»• We have gone to bed
Exposition. Al ;vo d mS. r T*'^^ '^f ?^"^"^^ luternational
hist visit. To tell the truth J^.. ! , '"'^ '^'''^ "''^' ^'^^'''^^ ''^'^l
spend weeks-ve e ^n ^ ifh ' .f ;' ^^^^^^'' '^'''^ "^^^ ^^-^^^'^ ^'''vo to
un intelligible idea J ip '7"' '^^"' "";^^«?^y^'« cstablishn.ent, to get
shoAv. I discovered i1,m+ if '- V ! ^ '^ ^'^nl more wonderful
find myse rio°ld I 1 ' ^T *° f""^ ^^'''' ''' "^^^'^*^'' ^ «1'«^'1<1 ^tiH
..vj.™, .1,10, ...u'i^i;:;?,r z.tE.t«,i,ri;l;;
".u
-^h
^?**%
80
NAi'oLEoy rir.
intelli^roiu-o ii, Ins eves— w„tcln ,i i , ,
Jeweller's sI.op_watd.Hl hinl^l:^;;;^,';^,^' " ""f-V"^^"'"' "^ ^
I'ol'l u,. his hea.l au<l ^o tin-..;.], all th V, sh "»<>;'•; tho water u.ul
<>r swallowin.. it. l,„t tl„. mjl! i ' "''''V/''' "';''"^'''^^^' '""^''^"■'*
tattooed South Sea Islande, m ^1 ed ''•''; i ?'''" '''" ^'''''^''^ •'''^•""
sti'iinxely lilv(- a nKiiIcrn Colt
Krapressof (I:e>.v.H.h;.Jth.' :;.,;!• 'n T^^' ^ ^'-•^' ^^-^ the
''^vayto see what sh. nu.^ht Si| J W * "" '"."''^''V-^:- »"<1 '.astened
«:ivvan unus.ial nnmhsv oi: soldi-M-s wdl^Inr) '" ■!^\V""I'^"'' ""•^'c— wo
;; ""-t, and learned that th'e E,nj Z .f thV F ''"I'"' ^'Y '* ^^'^^ '^"
Turkey Mere about to revi,- w 1, ! r ^'T""'' ■''"•' "'« «"ltaH of
^oetliese rueu tia.u I could have had l se Lut^ Fv„S """"^^' '''
We drove awav md tunl- i,.. ,, v .^"'"K> f<x xjsitious.
^Wcau Miaiier^hc!::::! V ji:: ^ "\"', "'?" ^^""^ "J''"-^'^ *'-
with aboard and we hired ^taudin ^ 1 V, ™ ^'"tJ ''' "^""''''^ '^f' '""•••»^1«
-.UKl of dis.,ut nu.sic; il. ii^Sfe iXT/ ,./^T'f '''''" ''^'^ ''
■slowly toward us ; a mo.neut ruore, at],-,, ' ' ''«* ';''-'^« 'novi„.
«Tand crash of uiiiitary n.usie, a .;iirnt ' f " '^ '^^^"'."^ ■•"^'' *^
ti'o.uthe dust and caL <lown the st et n , ' "^''^^^■"''Tmen emerged
oauie a lon.^ line of artillery • th n t :. . ^''■". '^ '''"^^- ^^ft*^'' ^J^««i
and then their Jmu,n^^,i,,^^JTt '""l^^' '" 'l''""''^ -tniforins ;
vast concourse of peo e si" .^^ "^r" /"" ""'' ^'^'"l"' A.iz. The
liouse-tops in the wi, L vie S ust " ^'"^"^«''~<1'« ^vindo.-s and
kerchiefs, and the w-avers o? 4e same u ' f ."if •"'\^'^ ^"''^^''^'■^ ''-"'-
of «;enu..es below It wl'l^^j;^';;; ^e'''- ^'^-^ ^vi,h those
But the two central ti-ures claimed all .;m- ../tent.- ^^r
=1 contrast set up befWre a, nn,lti(.,le t ' en X \ ^"^ '■■^'^!; .^"''''
iinifov,., .. 1 , ,. . , i-ni .'Buf .N.,^,oleon, m mi.'itaiy
uniform-
ono-bodied, short-Jegged man, (i,.
I'cely moustached. oh]
• 11 , . — o""^">'>> •1J1UI t-jegged man
^,:;S;!u:ttX,^^^Son^1.;.f - ''-^'- -^^yr^^^^'^^i
I'landits, and wa(.hin..- o^-eiT m> '' .. ^T?' ''^ -'^"^^^ ^« ^^^ "^"'^
under his deni^essed hat 1 Hm as f T^^'^'y ''^''3' ^vit:, his cat-eves from
were not lie::rtfelt and conlS'l ' '^"''"'' '^"'^' •^''" ^^'^'* tnuse cheei^
Abdul Azi. absolute lord of tlie Ottoman Euipm
^n.,^an clothes, almost without ornan.^ '
tiuUJ, fez on his head— a short, stout ditrk m
one would n.. be at all il^l.^S^ W 1 1^; f ^' -^^ ?r^' -'
l>-.rl4 ^ncSn^tnl^lS^^
nature and training filthy, briay^^.^ ^^^m^:;:':: K "' ^ ^'^^^^^^'r ^^
., loiaur, nn])iog);.f.sive, superstitious
N- ciad in dark green
gn' of rank; a red
bearded, black-
•'I'lM'.i ,!nce somehow
Tin: Hir/iAN ny rntKKv
~*nf| n «(»v«)niniPiit \v||„s.> Tin .,,.,. -n
H^- in ln-ilH.,„t Pans, un.l, . i.^r^;!;;*- >-'7;/f='I.-itv. ,); ,.
(VntUiT .M...'t.s tl... \iu,.t,,.MtI. • *'^"'' "^ ''•"""|.l. tl„. First
NAi'or.icoN lij KiiiiK'i'n- f P
oon,.nnin,u..l I.y kin,s a.ll I n«i- i 'it'"! "" "^ 't ^"''it.l city, and
>^nEini,u: all tl,,- ulnl,. ; wl,,, w, i" "' 'V'^' '^*^ '' '''''''' ■">'•
win. I,nm.,lev(TvrlM„...rto '. /"'Jv^^' ' /'^"^ "pnu a tl.ro,.,., i„ f,,„,,. .
Hheoo.,iMnuti,o;,,:;;;]'L ';s''}.^/::;;;'^"'7 '-*'-•- ■-"i .-...,1 ti'.^
tl- p.u.,,l<. of nnaltv ; who io, t. s j j^ ;", '"1 '•''""^" ^■'-tr..,.nts for
ea^'le. for.,.tf„i of its I.-sso,; r .f s • '^;''"'^ """- ' '^i'^^- ''i^ poor. sla.M.v
luHC«.vf„ily prepar..!. se,.t it . ,u . "7'', "1"'" '"^ •'^^-'■J^I^t = <I-liv.Mvil
pitiless .• .lieul,. of all tl.o v.-orl 1 J v L , ''''^■' " """''^ ^'"- tin-
';»'l «H •<'-•'! |.i«.auts, as before '^}u, Iv"'! ^ T^ "^ eoronatio.is
(liinireons ffaii.- ,,i.<l still m.i . ' " f<"',i,">tt('i. captive in the
^^tju. glory ,o.,i future !o:;^;^t::i^^^^^
and s.uToun.le,! by apilla.uli,.;. a , i ' , ''"'"'^ f '"',* ' " '""">" '''«<«^
cnm.on. he „ .,,t; a Ihroue ,n,l ' ve' ■'"""'' '''' *'"' *'"""'"''« o^"
Hceptre of a lai^rhty F ,ir. ■ \V „ I .^ f ?'" "" "■^'t-"'"l-'l ^vo.•M the
•speaks of the won.le, Po,,,- . . Wl V""'V''l •'^''^"*'"" ^ ^ho
"«'"ts of AhuMi,. :n.U t... lyi!; :;; of .vl^J;;; y'^*-^ "^ ^^'^ ^a^ae achieve-
to ; ^™ r^:;;: t ;L^;;t;^;;.;''^^ <;-"'- ^■".•'.•^ : «on.
of a vast royalty, yet tl.e puppet f i P ' • TT'' ^' '^■•' = '^'''^'^
of" tyrannical mother : /, . , 1 it "' '""1*^'" '^'"""^"t ol'iM
^vl.u.. linger n.ovcs navis an 'r "V '1'";'; ' ^'''-one-the heck
o{ lit', ana .leath over u^^i!^ l^^l^ l"'^'^^ "^ ^- ^-uls the power
with his ei.ht hundred con u in.i .^1 ;&' " '"^'^ "^V' "^*^' ^^"-
'""1 «le.'l.in.and idlin-,, and nvo d I'ou e ^ ,"; T ''T'"^*''^ ^^•'■^'' ^^^'^''^■^'
"lent and threatn. to /.. a S.d' i l 'T ^'''^'' ^'"^ i-«i'is of govern-
l^uad Pacha with apr^tv p n ir " i;::''!;!;' *'''"" ^^ 1-P«- V warv
-^■-y with a new to}, like any o^J wlK^'T-n ' "'" ^^''I' -^J-™ed
people robbed and oppressed Is' nNs I ' " "'^"^ ^^'^'" «'-^«'^ ^'i^
word to save then, ; iho believes t-'x-,:.atherers. but speaks no
faWes of the Arabian Ni.drtrbTtth.f"""n "'''' ^T' "'"' *'- -il-
magi.ians of to-day, and is ervous i, tl '''^''"^ ^''' *''" '"i^^'I'tv
-ilrouds and steamboats .^r^.'-S^'T"" ^'V'""" '''^''''''^^^^^
*'^e earth ^a d..rade, i.^verty!: -tjC^I^IXlS;::;^^^^^
Jr;
82
TICK RKVIKW.— CANKOIIKKT.
tioiM)f iyuomnoo cihm., an.l hnitulity, ,in,i will i.lle away th., allotted
NaiK,le„n Ims augiamte.! the com.uoreial prospenty of Fmi.co, i» ten
Pu H, and luuH partly relank mery city in th. Stat«. II. n.ud.-nmH a
A hole Ntm-t at a turn, ,u*HeHHeH the dainajreH, ,.ay,s thorn an.l rnhnildH
Huperbly. Then s,H.cnlatorH l.ny np th. ^'n.nnd and sdl, hut tl.. origin 1
owner ,h pven th. tuxt ..l..,ic.o by th. «ovr,nn.ent at a sUt.-.I pric-. h^:!;. ^
the Hpeenhit^n- ... pennit,.-,! to purchase. Bnt ahov., all thil.«s, he- ha«
ak.n th. Hol.. ....ntrul of tho En.pin, of Fran., into his hands, and uu2
It a olerahly tr.. land^for peopl.. who will not att.n.pt to ^o too far in
moddUny with j-ovennn-nt affairs. No country oHhi ^n-^Wv security
to hfe and proi,c,ly than France, and one has all the frmh>u. he wantJ
hut no hcen.se_no license to interfere with any hodv. or make any one
unconifoi-talile. ► . / » ■•"
As for the Sult^m, on.- co.dd set a trap any where and catch a dozen
alder men m a nij^dit.
The band stn.ck up, and the brilliant adventurer, Na,H,leon III., the
genn.s of Enerjry, Pemstence, Enterpri.se ; and the feeble A iKlul-Azii the
March' ''"''"*'' *''"*''^ ""*' ^'"'"'^•'*''»^'' l'»»'l""-e(l for tlie Forwaitl-
We saw the splendid review, and we .saw the white-moustached old
Cnme^in. soldier Canrobert, Marshal of France, we saw- -well, we saw
every thing, and then we went home satisfied.
le allotted
rOriTlH uiul
I :l
ice, in ten
liiiH rt^milt
Mllt'IllUH a
I nil>iiii(lN
!♦' originiil
•iw btifoi-e
fs, Ju- haH
will iiiiule
too far in
• Hocurity
lie WiiutH,
any ono
CHAPTER XIV.
W^^^folv ^^r *'" •^'''^"'''"' ''^ ^^"^'-^ I^'"'-- ^V^'-' I""l heard of it
its lofty ^s.n.rt'r.i;. ''r';'" "^ ';'"*'""•' •""' -"^♦^' »'""^' '^t
.maikteclsii ^v lit. T ^^•"','*'/''"r^'"«'' thick xvith stT.ny
fora^res. The Pa • rd of T , '^ T^'."'^ ;lowu from their ,.e,vl.e«
of oi^vahy a::; r;;*:;;;;i a :;::!;;::^;r ,;;;;?; ''^';' '" *''•' f ''^^^
liinulre^l vear.s a.^, • and si..,.. H , J , < i"sa(l.., more than six
.uietiy down o,::;;; :;:^r::; S; ;r^s:s'x ^^^^^
most extraordinary sneotaeles tlZ^ U,T f ■"'<l''s_t pa-eants. the
These hattered and .tn nose 1,1, ^ 1. ^'"''"' "' ^^'^^'«'''*-'*' ^'^••'^••
<5*ivalcade of n.a^^chd kni l.T "?•'" ""'' '"'*">' '""' """0' a
lieardthebell dot tkif t II t)"' '•"^''tr ^r"' "^'>' ^^'"^' = ^iey
Ma«s.«.re,andt 'rsuv hllo ,/'^7^T '^'' '^^- -l^'^'tholon.ew's
the Reicru orrTln V •'^^'^'-'''''tl''- Jhat followe.l; later, and they saw
king, t^<::l^^:Jt:'S::^^/'S^7''f''}'' tl. ove..lnw of a
that lords is ove.. .. Z!21^T^'"'':^"' "^'^I^T^ '^* ^''e youn« princo
listening to.
of ancient times. It was hid It kV To **"^«'^^"'*' '^t ^'le .jnamt fasluons
i-ns aim moitai iul budding an addition to a church.
k *v*y
84
THE MORGIE.
I'! I'
jii I
TlJiV'wv'^' tJiegi-eat we.stern front are l.isecte.l l>v s.,ua,-e pillars
or tl>e roii.,stiti.t,oa of tlie Presidential power-hut precious soon thev
had occasion to re.onsuler that n.otion a.ul put it hack a^ain ! Xld fhey
We loitered through the grand aisles for an hour or two, st.rin- ui, ut
the r>ch stamed glass windows enihellished with l.lue and e few ul
pctuie. ,n the chapels, and then we were admitted to the sacristy u
.sliown the nu.gnihcent rohes which the Pope wore when T " rmv e
^M^eou r.: a wagon-load of solid «old ami silver utenJ Is s<^ in the
ffi-eat pid.hc processions and ceremonies of the church • son,P ..l! e
tnie cross, a iVagment of the cross itself; a :^ ^ ^ f ^ ^n ^
We had dveady seen a large piece of the tn.e cross inTd ml i^^rtle
^I;J;hlsi;rTp .T^-^^^-r-l-Hkewise the hloodv i whd.
t e\t. f \" ' '" ''"'" ^'^'" ^'-^l'"'"^^'' ^'^'^ sacred person and hrave
. VV 1- '" "f'"'f"t« -f 1S4S, to n.ounttheharricadesandhJ
aloft the ohve hranch of peace in the hope of stoj,pi„g tl c^I.^l tor
H s uol.^e etlort cost hnn his lifV. He was shot de.ih TW si ^^^ ^
i cast of us lace, taken after death, the hullet that killed hL and tW
two verteu.e m winch it lodged. These peoj.le have a son evl 1 i a,l r
taste in the matter of relics Fercnison t,.ld „. +i """;'' "''.^ ^"W^-"
which the ^ood Archbishop wore at h " d e t." d';!^ ^ /l! ^■"' "'T"
the Seine, where it lay eihedded in the Zo):: ^ * 1^' ^'C
an aijgel appeare<l to a i-riest and told hinx where to dive ^rlV^
<lne for it, and got it, and now it is there on exhihition at NotVe D.une
"il^cZ^tl^s^'^ '"'' '-'' ■'- ^— "' i-'i"-a^hi^tr::f
Xext we went to visit the Morgue, that horrihle receptacle for the de.ul
^hojhe mystenousb^ and leave the manner of their ^Jlth^ J^'di^i^
.S.C.. t. Westoodheforeagratuig and looked through into a roo.nwhicl ?s
soaked; the delicate garments of women and chihli-P,. • ,,..+..,■ • \
hackj^ .Id stahhejl and stained with ;;dt at t ^Infw ^^S ::;r i
blou,ly. n a slanting stone lay a drowned man, naked, swollen lie
clasping the fragment of a broken bush with a L'rin th.tT /l.'i i '
poti.i|ied that human strength couhl not nnll^e \tt^, " l ^^ fZ
last despairing eliort to save the life that was .loomed beyond' 1 Lb
A streain of water trickled ceaselessly over the hideous face We kuew
t at the bo,ly and clotluag were therefor identification by friends lul
still we wondered if any body could love that repulsive obLt m nn ve
for Its OSS. We grew meditative and wonderetl if some tbrtv v^ „?
.yl.n the mother of that ghastly thing was cknd^hir" M^ 'S-llS^'
nd kis.siug It am ,,ettxng i., and displaying it with satisfie ride to he
passers-by, a jxrophetic vision of this dread end ever iUtte J inn l i
..•am. I half feared that the n.other, or t^wTfroi f b L W ^^
d..dman might come while we sto.1 there, b;^ :ot;:iiI::?u.:^:i^
IULAAM's KIUKND 81'EAKS. ok
turmMl au-.vwitli a disn.n.oiute ' f ■'"'^''' ^•"'•ele.ssly „t tlio body, a,i,l
stron. excitements, a n'^r^t, 7 tiT^''"';*;'/- '''"'"!'*' "^'" '^^-^^ "I--
Wh.,n om.of tJiese l,)oke,Mn .n 1 J'"'''ti-icul spectacles every ni^rJit.
"No. tins dc^' S V u tr:lr;-'^""^'' "*^* ''^■'I'tlunkii:^-^
shot oJHs what >/ou need " ' '■'^'•^^"^^""^-'i l'"rty with his head
-Kl therefbi-e, he ^^ d^^ ^^ ^i' ''" ''r' ''' ^"''^ ^^^•' ^'— 't
in a ..-eat garden i the ul . . J '\' "■ " '"^"'{V: 1''""" "^ e^tertainnient
«lqH,t, towards ,.ve int • p r.l'"^'"'?!':*-, ^^ « ''''''^ '^ ^'"^ ''ailm,,!
'-.e. Such a pevA^^iaincl/Snt^rt: ^en --""7^"-,-
was no noise, no <lisord er lu. vmv.L; I not oiten seen— hut there
.'iris that entered the t in H ^ t'". H' "^^'^ """"=' •■""' 3-^""^^'
^ve were not at all sure lint " "^ *^'' '^^""-"'"'-A'. l.-.-t others
iH'S^ijSv alfth™;'r"""?'f ''^^'^^-"^ *^'-"-5-^ --i-tiv an,I
- the g^d.; n tSe^" in:;:^ ^f ^^'•^^^ r^ked. When we an-i."!
a place which ha.l flo ve • 'b ds' ',"■ '' '''"' i"''"'^'^'""' ■"'^^ «"^*^^-<^'l
'•"-of orna.nental shndl^t wit ' ^ "lilT t'^' "''^ l-'^ curving
convenient for eatin.r iee-cre.m in \v , ^^'^''' " •^"^^J»'l<-1 '-ower
walks, with the ,ait cm ci^; 1 f ^' '"T''^ "^''"- '^'^^ ^^■""""« .^^-''^el
cloo,ned and fih.gr eJwITt m, e S' '?'' y-"'y,»^en, and suddenlv a
bef.'unyet. Fer<nison s-iid tl.m. • "'/"""Km.ir- ihe daneni,!-- had not
Blon<lin was yoin "^^ pe^^rm r .Tm ^' '' '"' *^^l"l'ition. Tlu, tan.ons
•'-'• We went thitl r Here the ' ! dT^" "^ r'"*^^"' '""■<^ "^" ^'^'"^ ^'^^»-
people were pretty close v .Zl i ! ^ ^^ '''''" *'""' ""^ *1^« »i««« '^ of
ivhich any d inkev n h ^n I 1 , ^ '''-v > ^"^^ ^"" ^ "^"'^^^ ^' "-^''ke
an error which I n d" yse1f ^;^^^^^^^^^ '"'"'^^^^ T'"^ "^^■•^'•- "^ -^"'-utted
.•if^'ht before a youiiriadv,! LdL'*"'^' ''''y ^''^^^ "^ '"•^' I'-^'^v-Standing
timn\;:!:';tex:;.ao2^;p;:b;i:;;v^^ T'^y.^ ''^ oon,.,in.nt, .i.,
P'u^e English. y publicity yo„ have given to :, l" This in good
We took a walk J"it mv "i ;.,•+. ,
<li<l not feel right con.fort ble'f! r '''''; "'""^ "'^'"-^ <lanipened. I
.lit con.tortable for some time alterward. Why w,7l people
Ml
If'^T
,1
il '
80
THE LOUVRE.
hem stupid as to suppose themselves the only foreigners umouy a crjwj
ot ten tliousaiul persons ? ° v.ij»u
But Bhmdi^u canio out shortly. He aj.peared on a stretched cable, far
7 A rZ f "'r ''^ /"''"'^' ^'''*" '""^^ liandkerclriefs, and in the glare
of the hundreds of rockets that Avhizzed heavenward bv him he looked
like M wee inseot. He balanced his pole and walked the length of his
rope- two or three hundred feet; he came back and got a nian and
earned lun. across ; he returned to the centre and danced a ji« • next he-
performed some gymnastic and balancing feats too perilous to artbrd a
pleasant spectacle ; an<l he finished by tastening to his ])er«on a thousand
Konian candles, Catlienne wheels, serpents and rockets of all manner of
brilhant colors, setting them on tire all at once and walking and waltzin-r
across h.s rope again, in a. blinding blaze of glory that lit up the garden
.md tiie people s faces like a great conHagration at inidni'dit
Hie dance had begun, and we adjourned to the tei.mlo. Within it
was a dnnkmg saloon ; ami all around it was a broad circular platform
t1 f TT ^ '?''"' "»! '-"'"^'* *''" ^^'^^ "^^^ t^^« *«'"PJe, and waited.
Twenty sets form.d, the music .struck up, and then-I plac;d mv hand.^
before my face for very shame. But I looked through my finger.^; Thev
were dancing the renowned ''Con-can." A handsome girl in the .set
before^ me tnpped forwani lightly to meet the opposite gentleman-
tripped back agaui grasped her dresses vigorously on both sides with
iier hands, raised them pretty high, danced an extraordinarv ji" that had
more ..X3tivity and exposure about it than any jig I ever saw before, and
then drawing her clothes still higher, she advanced gaily to the cent^
reraove:d his nose if he had been seven feet high. It was a micv he
Wtis onlv SIX. '^
That is the mn.ra,K The idea of it is to dance as wildlv, as noisilv
as furiously as you can; expose yourself as nmch as possible if you are a
womim; and kick as high as you can, no matter which .sex you belong
to. IJiere is no word of exaggeration in this. Any of ' the staid
respectable, aged people who were there that night caii testify to the
truth of that statement There were a good many such iM3ople pre.sent
I .suppose lr«ich morality is not of that straight-laced de.scription which
IS suocKeci at trines.
I moved aside a.n.I took a general view of the can-ean. Shouts
laughter, furious nuts.c. a bewildering chaos of darting and interminglin.^
ioims, stormy jerking and snatching of gay dresses, bobbing heads ffyin"
anus. Iightning-Hashes of white-stockinged calves .uul daii^y slippers "n
the air, an.l then a, grand fin.d rush, riot, a terrific hubbub' and a wild
.saiupede Heavens ! Nothing like it has been seen on earth since
trembUng Tam O'Shanter saw the devil and the witches at their on^es
tliat stormy nigjit, m '•AlIo^^•ay's auld haunted kirk "
^Ve visited^ the Louvre, at a time when >ve had no silk i>urchas(!s in
V 4PW4 tllHi •{
tliem
■d
es of pauitings by the old masters. St
were l)eautiful, but at the same time they carried sucl
ime of
I evidences.
IlKSKRVATIOX OF NOTED THINGS.
87
iig a cr jwt!
I cable, far-
I tlie glare
lie looked
igth of his
t man ami
: ; next lie
atibrd a
1 thousand
manner of
d waltzing
the ,1,'arden
Within it
■ iilatforin
id waited,
my hands-
el's. They
in the set
itlenian —
ides with
; that had
?fore, and
he centre
lihly have
mercy he
s noisily,
^'on are a
>u belong
he staid,
■y to the
3 present-
on which
worsln,,. If there , , „I u,S .1, ,.','" *" P"'"'"'", "-'l l*o«me
ii-T luiests, Its lakes, its cascades, and its broad ■ivp.miou ti
m
C H A P T E 11 X V .
ONE of our plciiHiuitcst visits was to Pciv U Ch.^i... +i .• ,
^ W.yin,.gn>„n<l of France, tl. Lon:;'.. J tit-u "of ti^e'lJl'::^
/greatest aa.l l.est cluklren, tlie la.t l.o.ne of scores of h^^cn s am nZ
-o>neu who wero boru to no titles, l.nt ad.ieve.l ^^e C^] e own
enei^ and then- own genius. It is a solemn cit>- of winSh..'k -e' ^d
of Hun.at„re ,uarl,le ten.plc.s and n,ansions of the dea.rjfe. n . wi «
from ont a y Ideme « of fWi.u^e an<l fresh flowers. Not cn-^ SV i o
1 peopled as tins, or has ,so a.nple an area within its walls ^ Few
alaces exist in any city, that are so excpusite in design, so ric i n art s^
costly m material, so grae(.f„l, .so beautiful. " ' '^' '''
We had stood in the ancient church of St. Denis, where the n.irhle
otiigies of thirty generations of kino,, and queens lav st etched f .
upon the tombs, and the sensatiomAnvokccl t::^ 1^!^:^ ^^J^^
;• "nous armor, the obsolete costum.s, the placid f^^ef t e Iruid:
Si/r \^' ^"'"V' *^'"^""'* supplicationiit was a Visi^Tof^ g t
.iatuput>. It se..med curious enough to be .standin- l-tce to fwe -h it
were, with old Dagobert I.', and Wovis and ChSeun'ne ' W V'^f
colossa heroes those s].adows, thoso niytlis of a tlunisand ^ea vs Lo^ T
J he great names of Pere la Chaise impress one, too' but diiferent I v
Ihere the suggestion brought constantly to his niind ist'l, ff 1 f i '• "
sacred to a nobler royalty-^the royalty if l^art Zt^U^'I^ZtZw
of mind, every noble trait of human nature, every hi-di occumlvtS
n.ou engage m .se^ms represented by a femous^ name T ; eXc is
curious medley. D.woust an<l Massena, who wrou-di n m iv lltle
tragedy, are here, and so al.so is Kachael of o „ ,1 ' • • '
tni-^edv on the stnop ruJ ^^ - ^l^^^^^f' "^ «'l"al renown m mimic
.stormy .spirit knew no music like the bude call to arn s Tl.. ^' f
J^|gina..d public gas-lighting, and that tth^r wSi- Ji iXlJlS
the cultivation of the potato and thns blessed nullions of hiSvSg
THE SHRINK OF I)ISAPP0INT;:I) LOVE
89
10 national
nne of l;er
s niou and
tlieir own
treats, and
city ii-i KG
lUs. Few
1 in ait, so
le uiai'blc
at len,<rtli
novel; the
lie liands
n of gray
:ice, afi it
).se vague,
i ago ! I
as deader
slept well
ng of his
lierently.
s place is
y faculty
m which
'fleet is a
a battle-
in iiiiiuic
•St great
to every
service ;
y, whose
mil who
troduced
starving
countrymen, lie with the Prince of Messerano uhI witi, .v-'i i
and princes of Further Tndi'i ('.v T ,!>. .i , exiled <pieens
a.strol.oiuer, Larrey the su "^ ', i de'SzJ^ 1 ?" / .''''""I' ^^^^'^'^^'^ *^^«
Moliere and Laibntaine, 'and scor^ S S:!^:;^'":^^^ ^^'Xe
But among the tlionsands an.] t]K,usan<l,s of tombs in P,;-re la Chaise
here IS one tliat no man, no won.an. no youth of either sex ev^~s
by witlHHit s oppmg to examine. Eveiy visitor has a sort .f i ilS
u!e.i of the lnstx,ry of its dead, and cani/rehends that honu 'e i Z.U^
in. not one in twenty thousand clearly remembers Ih. st.n' of at mV>
und Its ron>antic occupants. This is t^he gravc^ of Abehm ,^ S. ^
agrave winch has been moiv revere.], n>ore wi.iely known, inor vr tt " ' :;:;i
ng about and wept over, fbr seven hundred \ears. than ai^o her' "
Uristendotn, «ave only that of the Havi.,ur. All vis tors Hn'!^ ,^ ve v
about 1 ; a 1 young peope capture and carry awav keepsakes am nS^o^
ifi "^£i ;-r h:r:,n;ir;j^^^^^^ ^'-- -
;t.,^.. ^or t]::i,r;e^"-i r^f ^sr to^ .^;,/iir ^n
immortelles and budding flowers. ofienngs of
Go M-hen you will, y,',u ti,Hl somebody snuffling (ner that tond. (ia
uowlienyou VI !, you hud a gravel-train from :>rarseillcs arrivimr to
supjdy the dehc<encies caused by meuiento-cal>baging van X e
afiections have niLscarried. " ° *"""'"'" ^wiose
Yet wlu) really knows the story of Aljelar.l an.] Helosie I Pr< cious few
all. U itn rnhnit.. pains I have ac.pnre,] a kn.nvh.dg, of tliat historv
and I propose to narrate it here, partly fbr the liouest inia.m .n of U^
public and part y to show that public that th.n- h.vo been "^S^,^
deal of marketable sentiment very unecessarily. " "
STORY OK ABELAIU) .\X,) HELOISK.
Heloise wa,, born seven Imndre.) aiv) WAtv-six venv« ...r,. «i,-.
ArgGiiteuil-never heard of Argenteuil bef.-re. but supoo^e ?j"'rcla
reahy mioh a place. She then returned to her uncle, the oM.ui'o" sim
90
VILLIANY.
8|»ak t„ Im- fore to face S"" *" ■"'»"■ 1'"- to
wo„M ,.„t cost wm r : ; ""t c r;, rZ'^^^^^^^ ''•"" "■'» '"""• »'"' ^^
p.,ll,„,.i.>,, r;, , . '^"^^' ^^'''^ -Tulbort — i)eiiiinou,s.
W^ H^ -erSol^^t^lt'T'^-V"^^ -tho, which is unfo...
other. We wni <>f W I J f *^ ''H^ ""''^''''' ^"'' ^'"" "« ^^'^^^ "« any
staid Jong. Aleterofl s l"l .<^l>P*^''t"mty. He came often and
""<l«r that frt d V Jof k; ro'Vn ' 77 ^' "^"**^"^^ *^^"* '^« «"»-
deliberate inten ion 7 e Wd , " I 'l'' r"' '•"'"•" "' ^'^ ^^'^•''' ^^^^J^ t^"'
letter • <ielMndnng a conh.hng, innocent .ijirl. This is the
if'-
w" Hi.r tW " ;^j;rt'TC'''*""- •"^''* '^ '^'^^'^ untarnished. It
-. I-..1. nnscreant. x'nibert saw ins uj.poi-tunity and consented.
si)eak Latin,
that i)erio(l.
lule liiinself
oric in Paris.
eat pliysical
Heloi.se, and
iir chanuiiifr
"yain, she
low luT — to
i> allow him
his niece.
nan, and it
1 is unfor-
weJl as an}-
) teach her.
' often and
lat he came
'% with the
This is the
k'llS ilS imirli
cluise ami J,
idf that lovL-
lioko oftciici-
1 Wdids. "
degraded
'diiced the
iilhei't was
)t oompi'e-
ection and
I crime as
the love
come not
L-etly and
'. Here,
nty, wass
Ihert, and
t Heloise
bo marry
1 be kept
iiained a
hed. It
•nsented.
LOVE AND INDIFFKKKNCK.
91
He would see the partu^s married, and tlien violate the contidence of the
man who had taught him that trick ; he wonl.l div.dge the .secret and so
remove somewhat of the ol.lo(p.y that attached to his niece's fame But
the niece suspected his scheme. She refuse.1 the marriage at Hrst • she
«au Ful hert would betray the .secret to .save her, and besi.les, she did not
wish to drag down a lover who was .so gifted, so honored bv the world
and who had such a .splendid career before him. It was' noble self'
sacrihcing love, and characteristic of the j.ure-souled Heloise, but \t was
not good sense.
But she was overruled, and the private marriage took place. Now for
Fulbert ; The heart so wounded should be healed at last • the Droud
spirit so tortured should find rest again; the humbled head should be
ifted up once more. He proclaimed the marriage in the high places of
the city, and re]oice( that dishonor had departed from his house. But
0. Abelard denied the marriage! Heloise denied it! The people
knowing the_ former circumstances, might have believed Fulbert. had onlv
Ahelard denied it, but when the pei^on chietlv interested^-the -irl herself
-denied it, they laughed despairing Fulbert "to .scorn.
Ihe poor canon of the cathedral of Paris was spiked again. The last
hope ot repairing the wrong tiiat had been done his house was .rone
w Jiat next / Human nature sugge,sted revenge. He compassed it ^The
nistorian says :
a :s:zk liSiuS SiS:^^ """" ''"'''' "^ "^^"^' "'"' '■'"^'■^^'^ "I""' "-
I am seeking the last resting-place of those - ruihans." When I tind
It 1 shall .shed some tears on it, and stack up some bou.iuets and
iminortellcs, and cart away from it some gravel wherebv to remember
that how.soever blotted by crime their lives'mav have beei'i, these ruffians
did one pist deed, at any rate, albeit it was ni.t wan-anted by the strict
letter of the law.
Heloise enterecl a convent and gave good-bye to the world and its
pleasures for all time. For twelve years she never heard of Abelard—
never even heard his name mentioned. She had become prioress of
Argenteuil, and led a life of complete seclusion. She happened one day
Uy .see a letter written by him. in which he narrated his own history
She cried over it, and wrote him. He answered, a.l<lressing her as hi^l
Sister in Christ. They continued to correspon.l, she in the unwei-died
language of unwavering affection, he in the chilly phraseology ,/the
{K)lished rhetorician. .She j.oured out her heart in ■passionate, disjointed
sentence.s ; he i-eplied with finished essays, divided deliberately into head.s
and sub-heads, premises and argument. She showered upon him the
tenderest epithets that love could devise, he addressed her from the North
±^oe of his frozen heart as the "Spouse of Christ!" The abandone.l
viiifiin 1
On account of her too easy governinent of her nuns, some direputable
irregularities were discovered among them, and the Abbot of St. Deni.*
02
UETHIBt'TIO.V,
"•:• l.o.n.Jc-sH c<,„,liti,.n a s.nt , S if ! i v . ' "'"' T' '"" ''" ^'•''"•'' "f
!''■■"•*"' '"■■ ■•""1 I'fi- tro(.M in tl "li'l ""-^ >low ]„,s IkmhI ..If,) ai„l ,«
-tal.!isl,.u,.nt wlndl' 'i;;: badftl; tl' 2"; *^i^ P'"''-''^*^' " '•'■li^i-H
.'-iilirnngs to,nulHr«„ „t first l,ut 1...'. \v ,v '"7 '"'"'^ I'nvatious and
-<"' i"m„.utial friend, ft., ], : ^1 ^ J ^u ;,/""' ^"'i r"'^' •''•^l'<-tion
""'i ••''■^•» tlu. ,,eople t]i,. ,.]? s : n "' ^'"' '"'^"1« ^>f the church
-'-l-Hy h^t^roulul. Turpi HonMn "^:f '''--' '""^ ^^'''^'^''^
'"'^"' <'f lier .)rch.r. Al.clar ! . .i . > ^^ V'"^ '''' ""^^^ 'i^^' «»«
tho «rst <l,.l,at,.r of his ti • 'hiic- Z ' ''' V'^^^"'^' '^'"^ ^'''"'^^^^^ "^
. ;.h position h. Ju-hl i„ t]K^ nria on.t ^ "' '"T '" Vl^'l''^ ^'"'^ ^''""^ ^^o
"•ush hiia, he stood up in tho,,™. f \ ^'T'''^ "i debate ami
'1'-. a disgraced and .^^inltli':;!^:^'''^ ^'^ ^-"^'^-l -1 -t
TI,. ,]i,J • ■■■ • •■•■"J'"^'""i (-•jianiiDn.
i'emovedhisbo.lvto\;i;, ;;;"'"' "" '"">•; ^^•^^•' ^1^^- TJ.ey
twenty years h.ter,the^-l',-;^,/^^n' "'"^ ^'^'^''^ "''^'^^"^ *'i«'^
astwish. He di^d al tie ,e ..^ ?,u"' ? r""'''"''^^ ^vitJ. he;
'-<iie. ha,l ,.euuuned ento^ ,ed thr;^L"[., i '"'^ '^'V ''•^- ^^^^^ ^'^'^
-"ce nH.re. Thev .vere v^;,' vd .'i " TIJ?""' *'">• -<''•« ^'^'-'oved
yeais aftevMv.rd thev w, ,e ^1-, '"" ^ " ""'' ^'"-'l'^-' «eventeeii
-l..re they wiin : .ii^ ^,^ ;^ ';;--;l t--^^ to P^,.' ,, chai^
History is silent (■(aiceruini" th'^ I-.f .„.+,. e ^i
Let the w<,rld say what it will al.nit'h ni t aU, ^l: Tn'^f" ^"'''''''''-
tile iiieinorv and sorm-n- ■^,„. fi i , ' ' ''^t, sliall always respect
tin. troui.h;i s :i;.ir7 ;' ,d':;,;;;!r; !""%>"' ^^i '-^'"'^-^ ^'-'•^. -
Such is the story of VMar d H?"' ^' t ''T^ ''^''''' ^«^ 1"« ' '
l^aiaartine has s]i,.l sudi e t r /'s ,/ f '''' "^'"V" *'*^ ^"^^^«'v t^"^
could aaiu-witlnn the l^eieoirl ,^"* *'"^* >oau neyer
«ver«ow-iuo. hi. i,„k,. l^Z^^'lol^V "i ^^^^''^^ /^'^t^-ti^' ^vithout
more p..-operlv say. Hueh is he s^. rv '^T''''f~''' ^''''''^^ ^ «^'^^"W
is M-lien strii;j,ed'of tluM at.^ u tn^^"^,'-^*^ "'^"''^'^ *^^'''' ^^^^ as it
word to sayaoainst the misused S.T ^^'''^"'^'• ^^''^venota
fm,i her :,raye a sin.de ne'f iw •^'"' ' ■'"'• '^^""^'' '>"* ^•i*J'''"ld
youths and niakleus ofilr t: L- L^ Zt. n'"'" ^^^-^W^ht^d
Iiave not time and oj,„oitunitv i 'v !- sorry enough that 1
o,.i^« ,..■,... f,e,„, ia';;;;;,i 'j^ rp.,t' ,„x t ,l"'p""-" r' '"-^
wiintuver n wuh. j- i.ia.jmu , oi tjie Paniclote, or
"AMERICAN DUl.VKS ( < .-...■oiXUED." gg
Tlie tons of Heutiiucnt 1 Jmvo w.mfprl ,.., fi ^ ■ . ,
n.y iKUorance 1 I «I..I1 thro ' c ow ^L . r, | ''''^'i'"'''' *''^ ^"""''"- "'
■sort of people, until I have read 1 e, , ZIT '1 ^'''' '^^"^"* ^^'^"^
entitle,! to any t.urful attentions o n t ^ -s^ri T '''''•'" ''"'^' '"''^
Lack, now, and tlmt bunch of radishes '^ '"•^' "'""^I'telle.s
received the information fran i, f ui'^^^ ^^ "\ ''""'"' '""* "'varial.lv
did the English for H es 1 1 ^ '"" *''^"''^'' *^'"* tlio clerk wha
1..' hack in ml l-;^;i 't^;;";' ;:'r''"*«^^^^ ^Hnnerand.-.J;;
why those parties l.appene to ko "'>;r'^'"*'^^'"'^' ' We wu.ulere.l
extraordinary hours, foi ""nver tailed. .;"" '"\ ""'^^ ""'^^'^ "^^
Christian wu.dd be in the least ikdv to it 1 .' '"^'"^ "'' "-^^'-'I'l'-v
The trutli was, it was n b se frW ""'' ""^ ''^"^'^^ '"' ^^"''"^^j-
chaff- to catch tlcxl-din-'s wit Tl' vT%"""'%*" T*^'^ ^^''^ "'"^'"iT-
They trusted to the " . to ini d. ? "" ^"«l'^''-"""-i'->in.. clik.
trusted to their own bl m Hsll s ^ I'ITT "'^Z'''^' '^"■^'" '••'"■•^' "'^'^
Honiethin- ^<n.^iinu nts to keep them there till they bought
*■ Que voulez les messiem^j ?' t ,i ^ i
messieurs means, b.'^^l^h ^I his' .;m..:f '"^^^' ^^'^^^* ^^ -"^^ les
Our General said, " We will take a whisky-strti-dit "
[A stare from the Frenchman ] ^ •^ti-ngiit.
" Wdl, ihe,,, giv,. ,„ „ slioi,.,. „„|,i,|,.,. ,,
»■«» » Mlckedimpostoi-. •'" Jl.uUi,,,Mke. It w,k p|„,„ t],„t ,,„
An aoiuaiiitjnio' of niinp •j-.i,l tl.^ ..i i
the only American viST T^ j E "wr '^' ,'^^f ^''^ ^'^« '^-^l^tl«««
I'onorof being escorted I v the Pnvir^ 7' ^^'"^ ^''"' ^^"^^ t^^^' ^^ig^
unobtrusive frankness that' I was "Cshed t' ^ f "'"'• ' ''''' ^'^^
■ lHutenv5..ved, unp..p;sHessing iJ^i g" S^ * ^^ "l^ ' '^; , -S'^-^ed,
■ outfbr a distinction like ^, ..^ ^tZ ^ ^^^T' ^^^
f- ,,.
■.?i
D4
THK OVKK-EHTIMATKl) OHIHETTE,
he Jiad utt.'ii.h..l a gran. I nnlitaiy review in the VlMmp de Mars, Hoine
time ago, aiul while the imiltitude alH>ut him whh Krowing thicker and
thicker every niomout, lie ohserved an open Hpace insi,!,, the niiliii<r He
eft his carriage an,l wont into it. Ke was tlie only i,er8ou there, a,ul so
he ha.i phmty of room, and the situation l.eing central, he could see all
the preiMirations gon.g on ahout the Held. By and l,y there was a sound
ot imisic, and soon the Kmpen.r of the French and the Emperor <,f
Austria, escorted l.y the famous Vent O'an/.M, entered tlie inclosure.
They Heenied not to observe him, l.ut directly, in resj.onse to a sign from
the commander of the (Inard, n young lieutenant came toward him with
a lie of his men following, halted, raised his hai,.j and gave the militai-y
Hfiiute, and then said in a low voice that he was sorry to have to disturb
a sti-anger and a gentleman, hut the phiee was sacred* to royalty Then
tins ISe« .Jersey i-hantom rose up and bowed and begged'p.irdon, then
with the olhcer beside him. the tile of men marching bH.ind him and
with every mark of respect, he was escorte. I to his carnage by the im-
perials'/.^ ^«,vA-.v .' The omcer saluted again and fell back, the New
Jei-sey sprite bowed in return, and had pi-e.sence of mind enough to pre-
tend that he had simply called on a matter of j)rivate business with those
emperors, and s(^ waved them an adieu, and ih-ove from the Held '
rnmgme a poor Frenchmw, ignorantly intruding ui.on a ..nblic ro.strum
sacred to some sixpenny di-niiary in America. The i,olice would scare
iiim to death, hrst, with a .,h,rm of their elegant blasphemy, and then
pull him to pieces getllu,? him away from there. We are m.'asui-.iblv
«uiK,nor to the French m k nne things, but they are immeasurably ouV
l)etters in others.
Enough of Paris for tlie present. We have .lone our wliole duty by
It. We have seen the Tuileries, the Napoleon Column, the Madeleine,
that wonder of wonders the tomb of Napoleon, all the great churches and
museums libraries imperial palaces, ami sculpture and picture galleries,
the Pantheon ./rm/(/^ ,/«.. /V«m^.., the opera, the circus, the Legislative
iiody, the biUiard-rooms, the barber.s, the yrineUen—
Ah, the grm'ffes.' I had almost forgotten. They are an other roman-
tic tram. They were (if you let the Injoks of travel tell it,) always so
beautiful- -so neat and trim, so graceful— so naive and trustiu.'— so'.ren-
tle, .so winning— so faithful to their shop duties, so irresistible'to buyei-«
in their |)rattliiig oi)portunity— so devoted to their poverty-htrickeu
students of the Latin Quarter—so light-hearted and happy on their
hiinday pic-mcs 111 the suburbs— and oh, so charmingly, .so 'leliditfullv
immoi-sil I o ■" * J
Stuff! For three or four days I was constantly sayln.^ •
" Quick, lergii.son I is that nyrisette /"' ^ ^ o •
And he always said " No."
He comprehended, at last, that I wanted to see a gi-isette Then he
showed me dozens of them. They were like nearly all the Fi-eiichwomen
I ever saw-homely. They had large hands, large feet, large mouths ;
they had pug noses as a geneml thing, and moustaches that not even rroo<l
DKMBEKATE OPINtON.
95
h«^dn.x «.ul<l merlook ; they coniln.,! th.iy Uiv strai^^I.t i-.u-k without
|.a,t.nK ; th.y we.^ .1 -Hha,,.,!, they wnr „ot winning, th ov wm n
Amint thee, wend, ! T .sorrow for the va«ahon.l Htu.lent of the Litin
(Juurter now, even more than fornuu-lv I envied hin. T .„? * i 1
eaiih another i.lol of ,ny infancy. ^"''"'•'' ^
We have seen everything, and t<,-,norrow we go to Ve,x„ We
shall see Pam only for a little whih, a.s wo con.e hack to tak, up o„
.^it^tnltannel. W e shall (ravel nian.v thouHands of miles aft«M-"we
1... he.,, and v.s.t n.any great cities, but we shall find none so L^J^tillJ
Some ..four paity have gone to Englan.h intending to take i mnn.l
.ho„t cou..e and i.join the vessel at Leghorn or Naples se era' we ,kH
hence. We came near going to CienovaJ.ut have cc.nclude t^ c^a.nl
Mars. I es and go u,. through Italy fmm (ieiu i
I XM 1 conclude this chapter wiih a remark that I am sincerely uroud
I^t the cnilain fall, to slow music.
-
M
iMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
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iV
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CHAPTER XVI.
T;ri^R^AILLES : It is .yonderfn]Iy beautiful : You -..ze, and star.,
i.L/ 1 7 •^ '""lr>:sta,ultljat It IS real, that it is ou the earth, that i
IL 1. ? fT ; E^'^'';-''»t your luv.in .^iws gi<kly, stupefied by
f, Vv -r "'^^ ^"^ around you and you half believe you are the dupe of
an ex.pnsit^ dream. The scene thrills one like nulitai-y nuisic! A noble
palace stretclnng its ornamented front block upon block away, till it
seenied tliat it would never end ; a grand promenade before it, wh^i'eon th.^
armies of an empire might parade ; all about it rainbows of flowers and
colossal statutes that were almost numberless, and vet seemed ' only
scattered over the ample space ; b.^oad flights of stone steps leading down
from the promenade to low.-r grounds of the ,,ark- stairways that whole
regiments inight stand to arms upon and have- room to spare- vast
fountains whose great bronze effigies discharge,} rivers of sparklino- water
mo he air and mingled a hundred curving jets together in fm-nis of
matchless beauty; wide grass-carpeted avenues that branched hither and
S nnV" 'irT n !?'*'''" '"'' .r'^'»^^'-'''l *•> seemingly interminable
distances, walled all the way on either side with compact ranks of leafy
trees whose branches met above and formed arches as faultless and as
symmetncalas ever were carve.l in stone: and here and there were
glimpses of sylvan lakes with miniature shipsglasse.l in tlieir surfaas
And every where-on the palace steps, and the g,-eat promenade, around
tlie fountains, aniong the trees, and far under the arches of the endless
avenues, hun.r.Hls and hundreds of people in gay costume, walked or ran
or danced and gave to the fairy picture the life and animation which was
all of perfection it could have lacked.
It was worth a. pilgrimage tc. see. Even- thing i. on so gigantic a scale.
Nothing IS small-nothing ,s cheap. The statues are sdl hu-e • the
palace IS grand ; the park covers a fair-sized county; the avenues are
interminable. All the distances and all the dimensions about Veivsailles
are va.st. T used to think the ].ictures exaggerated these distances and
these dimensions beyond all ivason, and that they made Versailles mo.v
beautiful than it was possible for any place in the worhl to be I know
now that the pictures never came up to the subject in any respect and
that no painter couhl represent Versailles on canvas as bea,utiful as it is in
reality I used to abuse Louis XIV, for spending two hundred raillious
ot dollars m creating this marvelous jwrk. when bread was so scarce
A WONDKKKLI. PARK. r-,'?
witli soiiu' ot' Jii.s Hubici'tvi • Imi r 1.,, e ■ i •
of triiuquiJity m; now enjoy "
I alvvuys thougl.t ill of peuplo at l.u,...., who trinna.,; tl,.!,
.liniu-rooin, and tliru smvK- /', V • , " ' "" '".^«^M- tJiau a
take^vo luuclr J , ! Vm fv"f ;;:'^'"''' '^'-fJ'- I-l' l.e..tl,.y
row • allow uo si- n f l" i , ' ■"""' ^''^ ^''^"' '» "- ''"'il.h}
they meet overhead, and a faultless tnnnel of f„lia.,v s f n ed l' i
arch IS mathematically pivcise. The etfect is then ven- ih. T [
trees take fifty different ..h u,es, and so these ,m ^^fi' ^ I '"'^"
varied and piotnres,ue. Ti.e trees in ^^:^Z:'^ 2^^:^;^!
and consequent y the eye is not fati..,e.l with anv thin<. in 1 1 m . u. ,^
no.K>tonous umlornnty. I .-ill drop this subject now, lel.vh - 'it^'SL. J
» deternune how these people n.ana^e to niake endless mks ,7 Yv
orest trees grow to just a certain thickness of trunk {s.,v •, x,. . 1 u^
Ourds; ].ow they n.ake then, spring to preeiselv t W's ."he htl;
miles ; how they inak(^ them grow so close to-eth'ev ■ I„ „• Vi "
one lu.ge limb to spring fY-om the same SclenS ' , ot 'Z .^ ^:'}::^
form the ma.n swee,, of the arch : an<l how all these ti' ^ f't
exactly m the same condition, and in the same ev.n.isite r,?; elin '1
^synnnotn- month after month and vear after veav* ^ I il^v iri";
reason out the problem, and have failed '' "
un.nmr'V *'''"''i^''' •'"'•«''■•■'"' l'"ll of sculpture ...nd til. one '.u-ubv-l
an. Uiftv galleries of pa.ntn.gs in the palace of Versailles, and fe k t j
to beiu such a place was useless unless (me h'.d a wl,n / ^^'V^'/'t
cl..posal. These pictui-es are all battle-seen:; am '>; h- rl^, i S;:.'':^. 1^
<^ivas among them all treats of anything lr,t ■■re^i^ |^U^ v i'?
^e wandered, also, thnmgh the (^.nd Trianon m d tl ' P^ t '^. 'r'
U^e monuments of royal prodigality, and with histories ' m a ^ S '
S ;s^mn:;"""T" "•' ^^'^"'^"" ^''^ •''-*'-"> threed K ..,»
•""las niany ,p,eens. ]n one sumptuous b..! th,-v ha.' ..11 ^\Z t
.i.iei riiem i.ouis XV ., and Pompadour, had sat at their nie-ils i,.>L-,. l
uu»itc„<ied_to,. the table ..„<Ki ',„,„„ „• »„.,„,„„■. >vi,;;.,.";;;t;;;£T';';;;;
4
- ''Mil
IMi
-m
98
PAIIADISK LOST.
Hi
■ir>*i,
It to regioiLS bolow whoa it was noce.s.sary ti. rej.lenisli its di.siios Jn a
i-ooi.i m tho petit Trianon stood tlie furniture, just as juior Marie Antoi-
nette lett It when the moh came and (h'ag^'ed liVr and the Kin<' to Puiis
iiBver to i-etuni. Near at liand, in the stables, were prodi-io)." carriaires
that showed no color hut goi.l—cairia^e.s used hy former kin;i,'s of France
on atate occasions, and never used now save wlien a kingly head is +0 })e
crowned, or un inij.erial infant christened. And v. ith them were .some
curious sleighs, m hose bodies were shaped like lions, swans, tigers, etc —
vehicles that had onco been handsome with pictured desigiis and fine
workmanship, but w(u-e dusty and decaying now. They had their history.
When Louis A I V . had Hni.shed the Grand Trianon, lie told :\Iaintenon
he had created a Paradise for her, an.l asko.l if she could think of any
thing now to wish for. He said he wished the Trianon to be perfer^tiou
nothing less. She said she could think of but one thin-'^-it wi>v
summer, and it was balmy France -yet she wouhl like well to slei-di-ride
in the leafy avenues of Ven;ailles I The next morniu!,' found miles and
imltis of grassy avein.es spread thick with .snowy .salt and sugar, and a
procession oi tlioiss (puunt sleighs waiting to receive the chit>f concubine
of the gayest and most un])rincii)led court that Frances has ever seen '
From sumptuous Versailles, with its palaces, its statucis. its gaivjens
aiid. Its iountauis, we journeyed back to Paris and sought its antijiodes—
tlio Faubourg Ht. Antoine. Little, narrow .streets : dirty children
blockading them ; greasy, slovenly wonum capturing and .spanking them •
Mthy dens on first floors, with rag stores in them^the heaviest business
111 the FauV)ourg is the chiflonier's ;) other filthy dens where whole suits of
se.eoud and third-hand clothing is .sold at pi-ices that wou' ' u any
proprietor that did not steal his stock ; still other filthy ilen;. • they
sold groceries -^soUl them by thehalf-pennvworth - five'dollars would buV
the man out, good-will and all. I^p thes(3 crooked little >;treets thev will
niurdei- a man for seven dollars and dum]) the body in .^he Seine ' And
up some other of these .streets -most of them, I should say— live loiettos
AH through tl.>is Faubourg St. Antoine, misery, poverty, vice and
cnme go hand in hand, and the evidences of it .stare one in tlie face from
every side. Here the people live who begin thr- r, evolutions. Whenever
there is any thing of that sort to be done, thev a.i-e always ready. Tiiev
take as much genuine pleasure in building' a barric.idt. as tliev do in
cutting a throat or shoving a friend into the Seine. It is these savi.-e-
looking rutiiaiis wlio storm the .splendid halls of the Tuileries, occasiomillV
and swarm into Versailles when a King is to be called to account.
But they will build no more barricades, they will break no more
soldiera' heads with paving-stones. Louis Napoleon has taken care of all
that. He is annihilating the crooked streets, and building in their stead
noble boulevards a.s straight as an arrow— aAeimes which a cannon ball
could traverse from end to end without meeting an obstruction more
irre.sistible than the flesh and bones of men— boulevards whose stately
Gdifioes will never afford reaiges and plotting-] )laces for starviu"
dwconteutea revolution-breeder.s. Five of these great thorou^hfiires
-NAi>()i.i:.)Mc sTnATi;(;\,
99
nuUato from duo am),!,, .vnt).' f. i • , •
tliere, but tl.ev irist seek ......tl .. i 1 ^"' '""''■' ""'''' *" "ot
ingenious Najloleon .nt" i s ..i^'v^'''^'"' "! ^"'^ "'••'• ^^•"' tins
.stones— no inore assaultin . )Z\ • 1 "'""" ''■"••'^■'•'•'•"■^ <'f Ha-
-poeially at tl.is tin.' ^ ' ' ^^f^'T'' "V'T"'"^" "'"
Maximilian. Ivin- .tark •>,■,.!«• W '"' •^^''•'^"■'"•••'^ victi,,,.
watching eagelV- fr , a he! k 1 ^^''T'' ■■""' ^''^ """^'"^' -i'J<>^v
come-but f doVchn;;: h^n ^^r tis^i'; n-t' *'"V''1 '''' "^^•'"-
sense. ' ^'^"" ^t-'i-'-''Jii<'ice. Ins slirew.l good
.Iiilv, IS
)/.
.•■'MS
ii, 'I
1 'I
c II A r T K n XVII.
WEliatli, ],I,-:isint jo.n-ii-y „f it ,s,Mwanl i.-ain. AVo foiiiia that
_ l.M' llii- past till-.-;* mjrlits our sliip Jiad 1),.;mi in a state of war.
Ihe hrst nio'lit the saih.r.s of a Hritisli ship, l.t-in^r l|„p,,v with 'ry,yr (,,„„.
down (.a th.( pitn- ami diall.Mi;iV!l tlic sailors to a five li<rht '^"' They
i.c'c-ptiMl witli alat-nty, repai.vil to tlie pier au.l uaine.I-th.M ".shan> of a
drawn l.attle. S;'veral l.i'iiis.^il and hlooilv niemh/rs of hoth parties were
carneilott hy the ].ulic'e. ami ii.i])rison;nl until the f..ll()win^' nioinin-r
Ihi' next nio-ht the JJritish hoys oaine a-ain to renew the iiirht, but our
men had strict orders to remain on hoard and out of si^dit. They did so
and tlu! h3sie,;Mng party .i^rew noisy, and more and more ahusive as t\w
fact b.!L.ame apparent (to them) that our men wer.- afraid to come out
liiey M-entaway. liunlly, witha dosin- hurst of ridicule and otiensive
q.ithets. 1 iie third mj,dit they came a-ain, and Men- more ohstrei)erous
than ever. Thoy s\va:,ri,'ered up and down the almost .leserted pier, and
Irarled curses, ol)sc:>uity and stiu'jfing sarcasms at our crew It was
moK! than human niture could hear. The e.xecuti%e ottic.T ordered our
men ashore, with instructions not to li,'ht. Thev chai'ired the British
aTid f^Min-^d a. comi)let:i victory. [ jirohahlv would not have menti(mpd
th'swar had it ende I differently. But 1 travel to l.virn, and I still
ivMuemhsr that they picture no French defeats in the hjittle-.^alleries of
Versailles.
It was like homj to us to step oii board the comfoi'tahle ship a-'ain
and smoke and loungv^, about lior bree/y decks. .\nd vet it was"" not
alto^'cther like home, either, b-jause so 'many memb;'rs' of the family
were away. We missed som? pleasant faces' which we would rather
Jiave found at dinner, and at ni,;rlit there were a^^s in the ..uchre-i.arties
which could not b:^ satisfactorily Hlled. " Moult." was in Kn-dand Jack
in Switzerland, Charley in Spain. Blucher was j^one. none could tell
whore. But we wore at s(;.i a-ain. and we had the stars and the ocean
to look at, and i>lenty of room to meditate in.
In (hie tim^ the* shores of Italy were si,.,rhte,]. and as we stood ^azin-^
frooi the decks early in the )>right summ-r morning', tlie statcdy city of
Genoa rose up out of the sea and ilun-' back the sunlioht frontier
hundrad pahuies.
Hire we rest for the present—or ratlier, here ^ve have been trying to
rast, for some litMe time, but we i-un about to much too accunndish a 'M'cat
deal in that line. "
IMK MuMl-; <•!-■ IKMAI.i; UK AV
T\,
T would like to
may be prettier won
lemain hen, Tha.l n.tl.rr not ^o .u,v fmth
nT,oaisl20,00(»;two-tl.inl.sof tl
len ill Kiiropc, lau J ,|,„ii,t j^ rpj
ini
liere
"' l>o|>iilati(iii u\'
two-thirds of tl
tfistefid and
'" women are l.eaiitifiil. TI
ire women, j think, and at !
How
as ;,'racef'ul as thev eoidd
lev are as di'f
f'ver, aii-'els are
])ictnres are not tli
do look so el
not very dressy, f l,cl
y wear nothini,' lint
possil.Iy 1,,. without I
'SSV,
ind
fast
as
ie\c,
At least tl
'eiii^ aii;^'els.
n'Uiini,'. Most of tl
wiu-;s. Hut these (
of white from heacfl,, f„ot, tl
le yoini.!,' denu.iselifs are rolied
!ie anyels m
ienoese women
Ml a I
elahoratel
N
iiie-tentlis oftl,
H>u-h many trick themselves out
loud
^,.,1 c :, , . , "• •■■> 111 mill IHIIJU
«o.t of yed.whieh falls down their haeks lik
tMu wear nothing' on their heads hut a HI
veiv fail
I
and
many of them hav.. I.|
e a white mist. Tl
more
mv
"•own ones are met with oftnest
11- eves, lait l.Iack
lev are
iiid d
leamv dark
ad
he ladies and ^'entlenien ofO.-iioa i
aUmg„ifilai-ei.arkoutheto|M.f a I
ia\(' a
pleasant fasluDii of pionifn
«ix till nine in tl
an 1
leevenin;;-, and the
"11 ill the centre of tl
lour or two lonm-r. \V
eatin.t,-- iees in a neidilx
le eity, from
Two thousand
e went to the park on Sundav ev
•nu'f ''arden
Tl
le trei
itlei
I'ersons were present. ehieHv v
f)nin<'.
lien were dressed in th
nu>i ladies and yeutlemen.
robes of th.. ladies ^dinted
multitude moved round and
nioiiM; the trees lik
very latest Paris tashions. and tl
riMMK
1 th
e so inanv snow-flaki
l»ark 111 a ,!j;reat proeessi
on.
The
Tlf;
if^
M
mk
.^>i:
WO.MKN- OF fiKN-OA.
102
AMONii TIIK I'AI.ACKB.
1 Ik
bauds pln_v(«(l, iind so did tlip fountains ; tin; moon and tlu- gas lamps lit
•11) thi) «ce,ne, and altof,'eth<>!- it was a hiiiJiant and an animated picture.
I Hoanned every female i\m^ that passed, and it seemed to me that all
wore liandsome. 1 never saw such a freshet of loveliness before. I do
not see how a man of only ordinary decision of ehanicter could many
here, because, before ho could jj;<*t his mind nuide u])lie woidd fall in love
with somehody else.
Never smoke any Italian tobacco. Never do it on any account. It
makes me shudder to think what it must be made of. You can not throw
i!n old ci^'ar " stub" down any wheiv, but some vagabond will pounce
upon It on the instant. I like to smoker a good deal, but it wounds my
sensibdities to see one of these stub-hunters watching me out of the
comers of his hungiy (yes and calculating how long my cigar will be
likely to la.st. It remindful m.. too painfullv of that San Francisco
undertaker who used to go to sick-beds with his watch in his hand and
time the corpse. ( )iie of these stub-hunters followed us all over the park
last night, and we never had a smoke that was worth any thing. We
were always moved to appease^ him with the stub before the cigar was
half gone, because he looked so viciously anxious. He regarded us as
hiH own legitimate jney, by i-ight of .liscovery, I think, because he drove
off sevei-al other jirofesssionals who wanted to take stock in us.
Now, tiny surely nnist chew uj) tho.se old stubs, and dry and sell them
for smoking-tobacco. Tlierefon>, give your custom to other than Italian
brands of the article.
^^The Superb" and the " t'ity of Palaces" are names which Genoa luus
held for centuries. She is full of palaces, certainly, and the palaces are
.sumptuous inside, but they are very rusty without^ and make^io preten-
sions to architectural magnificence. " Genoa, the Superb," would be a
felicitous title if it referred to the women.
We have visited several of the palaces— immense thick-walled piles,
with great st4me staircases, tesselated marble i)avement8 on the floor,'
(sometimes they make a mosaic work, of intricate designs, wrought in
pebbles, or little fragments of marble laid in cement), and gi-and salons
hung with pictures by Rubens, Guido, Titian, Paul Veronese, and so on,
and i)ortraits of heads of the family, in plumed helmets and gallant coats
of mail, and patrician ladies, in stunning costumes of centuries ago.
But, of course, the folks were all out in the country for the summer, and
might not have known enough to ask us to dinner if they had been at
home, and so all the grand empty »o7(mi», with their i-esounding pavements,
their giiin pictui-es of dead ancestoi-s, and tiittei-ed banners with the dust
of bygone centuries upon them, seemed to brood solemnly of death and
the grave, and our spirits ebbed away, and our cheerfulness pa8.sed fi-om
us. We never went up to the eleventh story. We always began to
suspect ghosts. Tliere was always an undertaker-looking servant along,
too, who handed us a progi-amme, pointed to the picture that began the
list of the salon he was in, and then stood stiff and stark and unsmiling
ill his i)etrified livery till we wei-e ready to move on to the next chamber.
CIIURCH maoxiki(kn<;k.
103
whorcupon be nunrh..,l sadly ahead and to<,k up anotlier lualimiaiitly
respectft, iK,sition as before. I wasted so much time praying that the
roof would tall in on these disr.i.iting Hunkeys tliat I had but littlo tiino
left to bestow upon jialace and i)ictureH.
And besides, as in Paris, we hml a fjnide. Perdition catch all tho
guK.es Tins one said he was the most gifted linguist in Genoa, as far ss
bnghsh was concerned, and that only two persons in the oi. v lK.side
himself conld talk the language at all. Ho showed us tho birthplace of
Christopher Columbus, and after we had reflected in silent awe before it
or hfteen m.nntes, he said it was not the birthplace of Columbus, but
Columbus sgrnndmother! When we demanded an explanation of his
coMduct he only shrugged his shouldei-s and answered in barbarous
Italian. I shall speak further of this guide in a future chapter. All tho
infonnHtion we got out of him we shall be able to cany along with us, I
I have not l)een to church so often in a long time m I have in tho last
tew weeks. The people in these old lands seem to msilce churches their
speciality. Especially does this seem to be the case with the citizens
(. Cenoa I think there is a church every three or four hundred yards
all over town The streets are sprinkled from end to end with shovel-
Jiatted, long-robed, well-fed priests, and the church bells by the dozens
are pealing all the daylong, nearly. Every now and then one comes
aci-oss a friar of orders gray, with shaven head, long coarse robe, ropo
girdle and beads, and with feet cased in sandals or entirely bare Thec«
worthies-^suffer in the flesh, and do i>enance all their lives, I suppose, bi^
fl 11 ^'^1^°^'^'''^'^^^ famine-bi-eeders. They ai-e all fat and serene.
lUe old Cathedral of San Lorenzo is about as notable a building an vre
Imve found in Genoa. It is vast, and has colonnades of noble piUai^ id
a great organ, and the customary pomp of gilded moldings, i>ictu -
frescoed ceilings, and so forth. I can not desci-ibe it, of course-Lit woul.i
require a good many pages to do that. But it is a curious place. Thev
said that half of it-from the fi-ont door half way down to the altar-wi
a JeM^sh Synagogiie before the Saviour was bom, and that no alteration,
had been made in It since that time. We doubted the statement, but
did It leluctantly. We Avould much rather have believed it. The i.laco
looked m too perfect repair to be so ancient.
llie mai^i point of interest about the Cathedral is the little Chapel of
bt. John the Baptist. Tliey only :.,low women to enter it on one day in
henrr^''l'^''""",* ''^^^t ani°^««ity.they still cheiish against the sex
because of the murder of the Saint togi-atify acaprice of Herodias. In
this Chapel IS a marble chest, in which, they told us, were the ashes
Lfin^T-"' *1 around It was wound a chaiii, which, they sdd, had
thpi^* T^'"^^ '^^''" P™^"- W« <i«l"«* desire to disbelieve
these statements, and yet we could not feel certain that they were conect
n^^J LrT"^ '""^ """''^'^ ^^^^ ^™^«" *1^^* «^»*i»' and so could St. John,
and partly because we had seen St. John's .n-nhas before, in another
Church. We could not bring oui-selves to think St. John had two sets
flu l«
m :i
IlHi,
fiH'
:'j fW'i
lot
IIOV, TIIK\ MM.;.
riicy als'.slu.w.d us u poitinit .)t' tlu- Mu.loima wl,ic-li wii.s t.aintfd l.v
m. Liikn, and U .lid not look half a.s old and sniokv as ,so„„. of tl.V
imtMiv.s hy Hu\mis. \V,. cad.l not Iu-!|. adn.irin- tla."Aj,osl],.'.s n.odestv
. . . ,. p' _
m ninvr vnw nifntn.nin^ in liis writings that la^ could jiaint
Hilt isn't this ivji,. i,,;,|l.T a littl.. ov.-nlonc ( \V.> lind a pi.-.v of tlu-
inw' ('loss in (^mmv old church svc -o int... and s.,nic .,f tluM.ails that l.cl.l
It to:r,.t ,.,, 1 u„,d.l not like to l.c positive, l.ut J think wo liavt- smi
i^s much as a k.- of these nails. Th.'n tli.T.- is tlu' ciH.xvn ..f thorns •
ih..v have part of .,n.- in Sainte Chap.-lh., in I'aris. and pa.t of ..ne. al.so,'
111 INotn? Daiui-. And as f.)r Imuu-s of St. J)eniH, I f,.el cei-taln we
ii.ive hccn onoiiuh of tlieni t.. duplicate him. if necessary
I only meant to writ.- ai,..ut th.- chn.dH.s, lait I keep wand.-rin- fr.m,
the sul.joct. I .,,uhl say that the Church ..f tne Annunciation is a
wildernesM of ...-autiful c.lumns, ..f state..-s. -il.h,l nuaddin-s, an.l
pictures almost .-.Mintless, hut that w.athl ^jve n<. one an .-ntin-ly perf.-ct
Kica. ot tno thm- and so wh.-r.- is the use ( Om, family huiif tJie whole
edifice, and iiave j,.ot money left. Th.a-e is Mh.-re the m'y.stery lit h W,-
lia.i an Idea at tirst that only a mint c.nil.l have survive.l the'.-xpens.-
Ihes,. peopl,- here livi- in the heaviest, hi-hcst, l.roa.lest. darkest
.s*.!..i.^.t houMes .,ne can imairine. Kach ..ne mi-ht " hmoh a sie-c t..
H«<.i)). A hun.lred feet front an.l a hun.lrc.l hioh i.s ahout th<- style ami
,Voii -o up three tli-hts <,f stairs l.ef.,,,- y.a, l,e,,iu to come np.a. "si-Mis of
occupaia-y. hv.-ry thin- is stone, an.l st..ne of tlu. heaviest -tloor.s
stairways, mantels. I,enclu-s -every thiiii.-. The walls are four to tivJ.
ton tJuck I he stn-ts -enerally aiv lour ..r five t.. .-ioht feet wi.l.- and
a.s crooked as a .-..rkscrew. Y.^u -o aloncj on.- ..f these f^loomy cracks,
and look u], and helujld tin. sky iik.- a mer.- ribbon of light, far above
.yum- liead, where the t.>ps of the tall lunises .a. either si.le of the street
beud almost t. .-ether. You feel as if you were at the bottom of soiiu-
tremoiulura.s .-ibyss. with all the world far ab.ne vou. You win.l in and
oil., ami here a,nd there, in the most mysterious way, and have no moiv
Idea ot tho i.oints of the compass than if vou were a lilin.l man Y..u can-
iiev(^r persuade youi-self that these are actually streets, an.l the fr.)wuiii<.
tim-y mon.strous houses dwellin-s, till vou see on.- of these beautiful'
prettily .Iressed women emergo from them-see her emer-e from a .lark!
dreary-look m- .len that looks dun-eon all .,yer, from the -round away
JiaU-way up t„ Imixim. And then you wonder that such a dmrmiir-
inotli could ome fn:.m such a forbiddin- shell as that The streets -ire
wisely made uarrow an.l the hoi^.-s heavy an.l thick an.l stony, in oriler
tliat tJio p.,..ple may be cool in this roastin- climate. An.l they are cool
and stay so And while I think of it-the men wc^ar hats an.rhaN'e very
dark coinplexu.ns. but the women wear no lu-ad-f{ear but a Himsy veil
like a Kossanu.r's web, and yet are exc-cUnHly fair as a j^eneral thin-.
Wm-iilar, isn t it ^ - >^ n
The hu-e palaces of Genoa an- each supposed to be occupied by one'
tamily, but they could acconimodate a hundred. 1 should think They
nre lehcs .,f the -i-andeur of Genoa's palmv days— the days wlien she
K'
wax
MASSIVK AHCIIITKr.Tl HK.
a ;friNit .•omnu'i-cial and iiiarhiiiic power
TlieHo IiouHPs, Holid
I or.
s'vcr.il (ciitiirics atfo
ilii!] piiiki.sli color (jiitsidc, and t
inarl)lc palaces tli..iii,f|i ili.v Ik-, npc in nian\
cas( s of a
(Joi
locsc
Imttl
•^-scenes.
I'oni pa^fnicnt to favcs arc pictuivd witli
familiar illu.stratiuns from <
vicldcd to aL'c and
with monstnais Jiipitcrs and ('iijads. and witi
Ircciaii mvlliolunv. Wl
M'lv the paiiit In
(' a^'c and .-xpuouiy and is j.cclin- olf in Hnkcs and patch, ss. tin
dli'ct i.s not happy. A noiseless ("iipid, or j, J„,,it
a V'eniis with a llv -hjister on Ikt I
jnctnn
■»onie (J
if the.M
va
of a cirens ahtait
outsidcH of tlie I
piter with an eye int. oi-
>rc!.st. are not attractive featiirts in a
painted walls remind me somewhat of the tail
waijon
n, pla.stere<i with fa.u-iful hills and posters, that foUow th.. hand
ciamtry villaf,',\ I have not read or 1
icard that tl
can not ciaiceiv
anisi'of any other Knropean city are fivscoed in tl
lie
lis wav.
(' ot siicli a thin<,' as (ienoa in iiiin>
ardicN, snch jiondcrous snlistructions
Su
I'll niaj;si\e
nnycd editices, we have seldom set
of Ktono of which th
•n hefi
its siipjiort these towerin-' l)roiid
as
thick
cse edifices ai'c huilt can i
re : and siirt ly the ;,'rcat lilock^
Tlif
IS an ordinary American doorwav is hi'di
icvcr ilecav
wa
lis tliat ai't
repnldics of (ienoa and VU
cannot cnimhh
ages. Their ship^ Hllcd the Medit
I were vei-y poweifnl in the middh
extensive commerce with ( 'onstantinoMle and S
erraiiean, and thev carriid oi
•yrm.
Tl
iin
leii' warehouses
ise
were the -roat di.strihntin- (h'pots from wliencc- the co.stlv mcrchan.l..
ot the Kast was sent ahroad over Hurope. Thev were'warlike littl
nations, and defied, in tl
now as mountains ovorsha(k)w molehill
pill
lose days, .i,'overnments that overshadow tl
Th
lem
iiracens cajitwred and
iK<-«l (ienoa nine hundred yeai's a-o. hut dnrini; the followii
<jenoa and Pisa enteivd int(") an oti
ii; c;'nturv
besieged the Sai'acen coloi
ensive and defensive alliance anil
U(
obstinacy that maiiitained its iirist
'.s in Sardinia and the T'aK
aric Ishs witl
I an
fort
y l(jng years.
Th
pristine vij,'onr and held to its purpose for
(piests eipial)ly anion;,' tlaur m-eat atr
y were victorious at last, and div id.'d tl
lieir con-
some of those proud families .still inha'Itthe Dal
ician families. Descendants of
in tlieir own featu
hiui^' in their statelv halls, and to
l)al;ices of (ieiio
1, and tract
r.\s a rcsemhlance to tlie j;iitn knights whose portrait
and nu
pictured
rry ines. wliose orimmils have I*
licaut
ics with
<h'ad and foi'>;ott
Tl
en centurv
I'll dust and asl
I'.outi
iii>' lins
us tor manv a
of the Cr
e hotel we live in i)ei(ai^((l to one of tl
•OSS 111
the t
(.se ;^reat orders of kniiiht.
kojit watch and ward in it
inies of tlie C'nisades. and its mailed sentinel
hall
de;
s and corridors with tl
s massive turrets, and woke the echoes of tl
fil
H'eiierated into an uiiostcntati
leiv iron heels. But (lei
Is once
lese
loa's greatness h;
a^Toe work. They
say that each Em
oils comnieroe in velvets and silver
These filagi
ingots and work them up into all manner of
■ee things are Genoa's sj
•ojieaii town has its specialitv,
lecialilv.
H
er smiths take sih
They- make bunches of flowers, fi-om tlal
graceful and beautiful f.
tr
pt the delicate creations the frost
:es and ^vires of silver, that
inns,
.'oun-
weav(!S upon a window pane ; and
ivere showi, a minature .silver temple whose fluted columns, whos.
intJiian oajntals and rich entablatures, whose spire, statues, bells, and
II
'it
^§'i
ftA|
100
«iHAVKN I'Olt MXTV lllol SAND.
onmt.. Iav|Nl„„.s,sof Hcilptun. w.mv wrci-l.t in |.r,Iish,Ml silver. un.I witi,
M.cl. i.„if,.|,l,.H art, that .-vory detail was a fM.-ina(i„- s(,„lv. an.l th- fin
islit'd (Miitjce a wondm- of hcantv.
W<'anMva(ly toniovcapiin,' tlion-li w.- arc not loallv tiiv.l. y.-t of
tlu. lairn.w jmHsa^n-s of tl.i.s ol.l niurl.I,. cave. ( 'av.. is a koo.1 woni ' wl,,.,,
.s!n'alcM.^'on..noa un.I.-. tlu- stars. WImm. ^yo l.av.. h.-on ..rowlinL' at
>Mi.lni-I.t M.na.gl, tlu' gloomy nvvi(vs th.-y rail st.wts, w]„,v no foot
tails hat ours \ver« oohonij,', wh..rc only ourselves wero abroa.!, and li'ditH
''!'l"'a'v.l only at Ion- intervals and at a distance, and n.vsterionslv
^nsui.,,eared a-ani, an.l tlie la.nses at onr ell.ows seeni to stretd. npwanl
artJi.M- than ever towards the houvons, the memory of a cave T used to
know at home was always in my mind, with its lofty ],assa-.v., its silence
aiu su!itn(h-, its shrouding' gluom. its sepidchral echoes, its llittini; li-ditK
'•"•'I rnon- than ail. its sn.lden revelations of l.ranching crevices muf cor-
rnlors where we least e.xpected them.
W'e are not tired of the endless i.roeossions of cheerful, chatteririK
.trossipers that thn^n- these courts and streets all dav Ion- either; nor of
the coarse-rohed monks; nor of the " Asti" wines, which that old doctor
(Who... we call the Oracle,) Avith customary felicity in the matter of -ettinti
♦•very tlnn- wron- mistei-ms " nasty." But we "must go, nevertheless. "
1 f I'nSvT^,* """^ *''*-' •-•♦'""''^^'•y. (" bunal-place intended to accommo-
Uate (.(),()()() hodies,) and we shall continue to rememhcr it after we have
lorgotteu the palaces. J( is a vast marbl.J collonade.l corridor extendinc
aroun.l a g.-eat unoccui.ie.l square of ground; its broad iloor is marble,
aiicl on oveiy slab is an inscription -for evcu-y slab coveis u cori.se On
f'ltlior side as one walks down the middle of the passage, arc monuments,
tomljs, and scidptured tigures that are excpiisitoly wrought and are full
ot .tpacj and be luty. Th.-y are new, and snowy; every outline is i.erfect,
^ncry feature ginltless of nmtilation, flaw or blemish; and tlierefore. to us
tlie.so fa.-1-eachn.g ranks of bewitching forms are a hundred fold more
lonely than the damaged and dingy statuary they have saved from the
wieck oi ancient art and setup in the galleries of Paris for worship of
tJie world. ^
Well provided with cigars and other necessai'ies of life, we are now
ready to take the cai-s for Milan.
i U 1.
ifi~i
C^ 11 A P T K R X V 1 1 I
tire now
ALL day loii^r w,. H|M.,1 thiovi-Ii h inomitiiiiious oouiitrv wliosc pmkH
wem l.n-l.t with siinsl.iiH., wl,..s,. l,illsi.l<.s wciv dotted with ilrottv
villas sittin- „, tlio midst of Kard.-ii. mid shnil.h.Tv. and whos,' diJ>
ravines were cool and sliady, and loola^l ever so invitin- (Vou. wh,.,-.- wl,
and the l.irds were win-in- onr lli-ht thn.ii-h the siiltrv nin.er air
\\e had plenty of (.hilly tunnels wherein to eheok our perspiration
thon-h We tuned one of theni. We wen, twenty ininntes pussini;
thmu-h It, goin- at tlie rate of thirty to thirtv-Hve miles an hour.
J^eyond Alessandria we passed the hattle-fiel.l of Maren-o
(.ward dusk we.lrew near Milan, au-l eau-Iit -liinpsrs of the dtv
and tlu, 1. ue mountain pe.ks l...\oial. Hut we were not earin- for theso
tliin-s -theyd,,! ,u.t inteivst us in the least. We xvere in a fever of
nupalience ; we w.-re dyin- to see thiM-eiiowned Catla'dral : We watched
Ml this direction and that- all around .'V(>rv where. V.e he..ded no one
to point Jt out— we did not wish any one to point it out - we would
reco-nize it, even in the desert of tht; -reat Sahara.
At last, a forest of graceful n.u'.lles, shimmerin- in the auiher sunli-dit
rose slowly above the pi-my house-tops, as one sometimes sees, in tlaffar
Horizon, a gilded and j.innacled mass of .-loud lift itself ahove tlu* waste
u ",?•''/'* "^'•' *''•' ^''itlicdral : We kianv it in a moment.
Hall of tliat ni-lu, aiul ai! of the next day, tl lis architectural autocmt
was our sole ol))ect of interest.
What a wonder it is] So -rand, s,» solemn, so vast! And Vff so
delicate, so airy, so graceful '. A very world of solid weidit, and' vet it
seems in the soft moouli-ht only a fairy delusion of frost-work that mi-ht
vanisli witli a breath : How sharply its i.innarled angles and its wilder-
uess of spires were cut a-ainst the sky. and how richly their shadows fell
upon Its .snowy roof? It wits a vision ! -a miracle I^-an anthem sun<r
m stone, a poem Avrought in marble !
How.soever, you look at the great Cathedral, it is noble, it is beautiful I
VV herever you stand in Milan, or within .seven miles of Milan, it is visible
and when it is visible, no other object can chain your whole attention'
i.eave your eyes unfettered by your will but a .single instant, and thev
will surely turn to seek it. It is the first thing you look for when you
me mtlie morning, and the la.«.t your lingering gaze re.st.s uooii at night.
>urely, it must be the princeliest creation that ever brain of man conceived
■li'-7
i-ii
K3'
m
^11
■Hi ■:
108
At
col
1)1
THK GRAND MH,A\ rATHEDIlAL.
OSSIIS.
una ;>eloek in tJie iiioniiiiy wt. ^vent iiiid stood hefore tlii.s i.mrl
he c't'iitral one of its five
irhli-
great doois is liordered witli
_)iis-relief ot l.inls and tVnits and beasts and insects, wliicli liav.. Int-n so
ingemously carved out of the n.arl.le tliattlicy seen, like living creat.ire.s
iuid tl.e hgnros are so nun.erons and tln^' designs ,;o conq.lex, that one'
nnglit study it a week without exhausting its interest. On the -real
f^'^'i'}'' «""'i«>»'Hting th., myriad of spires-inside of the spires-^ovcr
the doors, the windows— iii nooks and corners— everv where that a niclu-
or a perch can he found about the enormous building, from summit to
hase there is a marble statue, an.l every statue is a study in itself '
Kaphael, Angelo. Canova- -giants Tke these gave birth to 'the deshnis'
and their own pupils carAcd them. Everv face is eloquent with exn%s-
sion, an.^ every attitu.le is full of grabe. Awav above, on the loftv roof
mnk on rank of carved and fretted spires spring high in the ai'r, and'
through then- rich tracery one se.^s the sky beyond. In their midst the
central steeple towers proudly up like the mainmast of some great India-
man among a fleet of coasters.
We wished to go aloft. The sacristan showed us a marble stairwa^■
(ot conr.se it was marble, and of the purest and whitest— there is no
other stone, no brick, no wood, among its building materials), and told
us to go np one Inindred and eighty-two steps and sto]) till he came It
was not necessary to say stop— we should hiive done that any how W.-
were tired by the time we got there. This wasth.> roof. HeiV, .si)rinc.ino
Irom Its broad marble flagsti nes, Avero the long files of spires, lookino- very
tall close at hand, but diminishing in the distance like the pipes "of an
organ We conld see, now, that the statue on the top of each was the
size of a large man, though they all looked like dolls from the street
We could see, also, that from the inside of each and every one of these
hollow spires, from sixteen to thirty-one beautiful marble 'statues looked
out upon the world below.
From the eaves to the comb of the roof stretched in endless succession
great curved marble beams, like the fore-and-aft braces of a steamboat
and along each beam fi'oin end to end stood up a row of richly carved
flowers and fruits— each separate and distinct in kind, and over I') 000
species represented. At a little distance these rows seem to close together
like tiie ties of a railroad track, and then the mingling together of the
buds and blossoms of this marble ganlen forms a picture that is very
charming to the eve.
We de.scended and entered. Within the church, long rows of fluted
columns like huge monuments, divided the building into broad aisles
and on the figured pavement fell many a soft blusl'i from the i.ainted
windows above. I knew the church was very large, but I could not
tully appreciate its great size until I noticed that the men standin-^ far
uown by tne altar looked like boys, and seemed to glide, rather "than
vi 1 n-' '''!*"■*'•' ''^'""t g'^^^ng "loft at the monster windows all a-dow
witii bnlhantlv colored scenes in the lives of the Saviour and his
foil
(wcv:
!on:e of th ■: <• j it tures ar.) mosaics.
ant
so aitistic
dlv ai'e
VN rNPL-rASAXT ADVENTLRK.
109
tlieir tl.oustuul particles of tinted -lass or stone put togetliei- that the
work has all the smoothness an.l iinish of a paintin- Wo counted
sixty panes of glass in one window, and each pane was adorned with
one of tlu^se master achievements of g(Miius and patience.
Tlie .ifuide showed us a colfee-colored i)ieee of scidpture which he siid
was considered to have com.; from the h:ui<l of Phidias, since it was not
l>ossil.le that any other artist, of r.ny ej.och, cjuld have copie.l nuture
with such hmltless accuracy. The tigure was that of a man without a
skin; with every vein, artery, muscl.-, (.very fihre and tench.ii an<l tissue
ot the Iiunijin frame, represented in minute ch'tail. Tt looked nitural
hcciuise somehow it looked as if it were in pain. A skinned man wonhl
im likely to look that way, unless his attention were occupied with some
otlier matter. It was a hidemis thin- an.l %et there was a fascination
ahout It some where. 1 am very sorry [ s,-. it. hecauso I slmll always
see It, now. I shall dream of it, sometimt. 1 shall dream that it 'is
resting its c.mled arms (.n the l.ed's heail and lookin- down on me with
Its dead eyes; 1 shall droam that it is stretched hetw-een the sheets with
ine and touchmg me with its exj.osed mn.seles and its stringy cold le-s
It IS hard to forget repulsive things. I remem})er yet how 1 mi olf
from sdiool once, when I was a hoy, and then, pretty late at nhdit
concluded to climl. into the window of mv father's otliee and slee.) on a
loui^ge, because J had a delicacy a!)out going home and g,^ttin<r thrashed
.Vs 1 lay on the loung;) and my eyes grew accustomed to the darkness I
fiuicied I could see a long, dusky, shapeless thing stretche.l upon th«
floor. A cold shiver went through me. I turned my fac;i to the wall
fhat did not answer. I was afraid tint that thing would erje;. over ami
seize me m the dark. I turned hack an..i stare I at it for minutes and
nimutes— they Koemed hours. It appeared to m; tliat the la-dn-
moonlight never, never would get to it. I turnanl to the wair^mri
counted twenty, to pass the feverish time awav. I looked~-tlie iiale
stjuare was nearer. I turned again and eounfy fifty— it was almost
touciing it. With desperate will I turned again 'and counted one
Inmdred, and faced about, all in a tremble. A white human hand lay
m the moonlight 1 Such an awful sinking at th3 heart— such a suddeii
gasp for breath I I felt-I can not tell n-hat I felt. When T re -overed
Ntreugth enough, I faced the wall again. But no boy could have
remained so, with that mysterious hmd behin.l him. I counted a-aiii
and looked— the most of a naked arm was expos:^d. I put my liands
over my eyes and counted till I c.uld sland it no longer, and th'en-^tho
[.allid tace of a man w^is there, with the corners of the mouth drawn
down, and the eyes fixed and glassy in death : I raised to a sittiu-
posture and glowtu-ed on that corpse till the light crept down the bare
l.reast,-linc by line -inch by inch-past the nipple, -and then it
ilisclosed a ghastly stab !
I went away from there. J do not say that I went .away in any sort
of a, hurry, but I simply went^that is suflicient. I went (mt i'lt the
" indow, and I carried the sash along with me. I did not ne^d the siinh
jit'f,-,-'
* if*
i^\
no
A SKIIMO.V KKOM THK TOMH.
hut it was l.an.licr to take it than it wa,s t.. Iomv.^ it, nmi so I took it
I was not .scarcil, Imt i was ooiisidorahly a<,Mtat('(l.
WIkm, r -v'u-Im;.! l,o,m.. tlun- wl,i,,i„Ml ....^ l,„t I onjoml it. It ««.nuHl
prn'ttM-tiy .Id.^H. iul. That .nan l.a.l lu-.n .sta!.!,,-,! .km,, tl... olHcv tl.at
attonioon, au.i <la-y cavricl I.in. i), thciv to .lodor I.i,,,, l,„t ho only lived
an hour. I lime .sh.,,t in the .same room will, hi fWn, since then - in
luy dreams.
Now wo will .le.scon.l inlo the eryiit, under (h.. -rand altar of Milan
l._<atlie<iri and recvive an nnpressive .serm.)n from lips that hav<, been
mlent and han.ls that have l.e(>n -..sturele.ss for three In.ndred years.
The priest stcpp.>d in a small dun-eon and held „p his candle This
was (he ast rc.stn.-plac.. of a f^ood man. a warm-h.-arted, unsellish man-
u man whose whole life wa.s -ivcMi 1.. succorin- the poor. encoura«in.r the
famt hearted. v,s.t.n«th,> sick: in relievin- distress, whenever and wT.ere-
rnvr he lonnd ,t. H,s heart, his han.l .uul Ids purse were alwavs open
With Ills story n. ones m.nd he can almost .^ve hisl.eni-nant countenamv
movni- c.ahnly anion- the l.aK-ard fac.'s of iMilan in tlu^ days when the
pla-ue swej.t (he city, l.rave where all others are cowards, "full of com-
pas^aon where pity J.a.l been crushed out of all other breasts by the
uistnict ot .self-pr,>,serva(ion ,irono ina.l with terror, che.u-in- all, prayin-
..•ih all helpni, all. with hand ami brain and purse, at Ti time ^;hen
Kue Its tonsook their children, the frien.l des,>rted the friend, and the
brother tunKul away Iron, the sister while her plea.ii.iK's were still wailin-
ui his oars. '^
Tliis %yn« -00.1 St. Charhvs Borromc, Bishop of Milan. Tin, peoi.le
Idolized him; princes lavished nncounte.l treasnivs upon him We
stood 111 Ins tomb. Xear by was the .sareopha^n.s, li-hted In" the
dnppiiii. candles. The walls were faced with bar-relief; repivsnitin-
scenes ,n his life done in ma.ssive silver. Tln< priest put on a short white
lace -arnumt ov.-r his black robe, cro.s.sed himself, bowed reverently and
)e-an to turn a windlass slowly. The saicopha-us separated in twoVarts.
!en;4hwise, and the lower part sank down and <lisclose,l a cotlin of roc-k
o^ys al as clear as the atmosphere. Within lay the body, rolK^d in costly
liabilimonts covered with -ohl embroidery and starred with scintillating
gems. he .lecayin- Jiead was black with a-e. the dry skin was drawn
tight to the oones the eye.s w.-re -one. tlr-re was a ],ole"in the temple and
ano her in the dieek. =nid the skinny lips were parted as in a Ihastly
smile : Over this dreadful face, its du.st and ..eeay, and its mockin^. .ain
imi- a crown sown thick with flashin- brilliants ; and upon the l.misi;
lay crosses and croziers of solid -old that were splendid with emeralds
and diamonds.
How, poor, and cheap and trivial these -ew-^aws .seemed in pivsence of
the solemnity., the -randei.r the awful majesty of Death.' Think of
Sv!'V ^^.''^^^P'^'";^'' Washington, standin- b.fo.^. a i-everent worhl
tricked out in a. - a ^, },,,,„j,^ ^j^^, ^^.,^^^ ear-rin-s and tin tiumjx-ry of
the savages ot the j)lains ! ' -
COST OF CATIIKDHAI,.
Ill
Demi nar((.lui...'o jnvad.r.I Jiis |,.v-.imit Horiium, aii.l Km iMinlcm m„h •
Yon .at, w,.rsln,, fl>,- yaiiiti-s of ..aril, y.a, that I..,,;^ for wnri.llv ho„o,"
worldly wcaltli, worldly lamr l.cliold tli.'ir worth I
To us it MH-iM.'d that so goo.! a man, so kiiui a hr-art, mo si.ni.l.- u liaduv
d.!S(.rv(Ml rest and poaco in a -raA.- .acred from tli,. inlrnsions of o.yin'r
«>y<>s, and holiovod that ho hiniM'lf would lauo , rcfrro.! to ha v.' it s,?
hut j)cradvonturo our wisdom was at fault in this \v. wd
As wo .■anio out upon th.v f!o.,r of th., donvh aj.it.,' anolj,,.,- ,„i,.v(
volunteered to show us the treasui'os of the ehiurh. What more / The
furniture of the nairow ehan.l.er of d.-ath wo had just visit. .I w..i.di.>d
SIX millions ol tran.s in .aiiuvs an.l carats alone, without a p.^mV th.'-owi.
into the aeeount Ihv the c.stly workmanship I.estowe.l upon them ' I{„t
wo foliowe.l into a lai-.. n,om fille.l with fall wood..., press.,s like' ward-
rohes. llethivw tl. n, open, and h..hol,|, th,- cargoes of "erud.. Imllion"
of the assay ollic-s of lN.eva.ia fa.le.l out of my m,,„o,.y. The.r., wore
\ i.-Kn.s and i.islM.ps Iher.., al.„v.' their natural size, nKub" of solid silver
«Meh w.,.lh, l,y wei.^d.t, iVom oi-l.t hun.lre.l th.,usan.l to two millions of
trancs, and hoai'in- ,ir,>mmed hooks in tliei.- lia.ids wo.tl. ei-hty tho.isand •
there Av,.re l,as-n-li,-fs that w.,i,i,di..,I six hundre.l poun.ls, earv...! in' s.,lid
siiv.u- ; eroziers and eross.-s, and candlesticks six and ei-dit feet hi<d. all
o VM-in -.,1,1, an.l h.^illiant with precious sti.nes ; and hesides thesv were
all n.anm.ro cups and vases, and such tllin,^^s neh in pr.,portion. It
was an Ahuhl.n s pa aee. The treasures her,-, l.y simple wc.i/d.t, without
oountii.u workmanship, w,n-e valued at fifty millions of francs ' If I
ooul.l f^et the custody of them f.,r a while, I f..ar me the market p'riee of
«dver bishops would advance shortly on account of their exceeding
scarcity lu llie Cathe.lral of Milan. "
The priests showed ii.s two of St. Paul's fingers, and oiu^ of St. Pet.M-'s'
a honeot Judas Jscariot, (it was l.lack), and also h.jnos of all the other
discipl™ ; a haudker,;hief in which the Saviour had h-ft the impression
of his fac.^ Among the most j.rccious of the relics were a stonefrom
thejioly Sq.ulchre part of tlie crown of thorns, (they have a whoh- one
at Notre J)an,..), a fragment of the purple rohe worn by the Saviour a
nailfrom the Cross, and a picture of the Virgin and Child painted l.y
the vcntablo l:nnd of St. J.uke. This is the s.-cond of St. Luke's Vir-dns
we have seen (Jnce a yearall these holy relics are carried in procession
through th;-st:eets of Milan. '
I like to revel in tJie dryest details of the gi-cat cathedral. The
nul.hng IS five hundred feet long l,y one hundre.l and eightv wide and
the principal st; ep e is in the neighborhood of four hunilreij feet hi-h
It has /,US marble statues, and will have upwards of tliree thousa'^i.i
more wJien it ,s finished In addition, it has one thousand hve hundred
to.;-rel,ofs. It has one hundred and thirty-six spiros-twenty-ono more
H,e to bo adde.^ Each spire is surmounted by a statue six and a half
teet high. Lv-ry thnig about the churdi is marble, and ail from the
suiric .juany ; it was b.H|ueathed to the Archbishoi)ric for tliis Duroose
centuries ago. So nothing hut the mc , o workman.ship costs ; still that in
IT ,
./
ji
II:
FATK OF THK AKCIIITEcrr.
Hxi.ci,su.>-t]..>h,ll foots „i. six Jn.u.lml an<l ..i^.luv-fow ,„illiou.r of
fnmcs tlms far (.ousi.l.ral.Iy ov.r a lam.l.v.l n.ill,„7 of doll u- m it is
.'s naated that ,t Avill take a Inuulml au.l twenty years ye o^'iini h tl o
.•athclral It looks complete, ln:t is far fro.n I.Ji.^g so. We saw •new
sat..,, ,,„t „, Us niel.e yesterday, alouysi.Ie of one which has l^n
staMdin. these four luuulre.l yea.., thoy s.dd. Tliere a.^fo r sUir "iJ
xr, V' • "'; ''"'"^"''^ ""'^ '''"''^ ^t'^tues which adorn tliem
.>rar.o ( onipioni was the architect who <lesii;-n^.l the wonderful strnc turn
i.u.r _than hye hundred years a^o, an.l it toJic hin. fbrt^ x y^ r^ ^^
o tl.e idan and ,.et it rea.ly to hand over to the l.uilders. "H s doS
•an The buddn.,,. was l,o,^nu. a little less than fiye liundred ye- rs -^
and the th.r.1 -veneration hence will not see it con.pleted ^ ' '
The l.uihln.g looks l>est by n.oonlioht. because the older j.ortions of ifc
.ejnj, stained w,th a^e, contrast unpleasantly with the newe'n whiter
port ons It seen.s somewhat too broad for its Jiei-dit but nn Ik-
fanuhanty with it nii,^ht dissipate this in.pression ' " '
Ihey H,,y tlmt the Cathedral of Milan is second only to St Peter's at
We bid it good-bye. now— possibly for all time. How surely in some
uture day, wlien the memory of it shall haye lost its yiyi s ,H we
Imlf bebeye w haye seen it in a wonderfid .Iream. but ueyerwith y^lZ
>,?-J
CHAPTKK XIX.
" T~\^^ yoii wi« zo lia
JL/ T]mt Aviis wJin
laut can Iw T
ui. there ? I give it is TZ ^i, f • . "l'''^"^' ''" >'"" ^'^i' t*^ *,'«>
.stiJl. Thev talk forever ^,k1 f ....l. II 1 ■ I'""' *""^"^'* '^'"f' »«vei-
they xuse. ' Inspira fo^ its^f ^ Ud h"! K " *''," '^'•-l «' ^'•""'^'•'^^-*''
would only show vou a nm4en '> ;^^^^^^ t'oini'.-elienci the.n. Jf thev
piison-house, or a LvttltheTd tn ^ ^d ,v" "'""■'''•''' ^"'"'^' -' "
reminiscences, or -rand tr-K i >n ' . ?, *""^i""^"»*^"'0'-ios of historical
every dream, every iCant tnin of " "•. '"' ' • ^^"* *^"'>' "^^^'^-^U^
Son.etimes ^ hen I W to . if r i'^ > '"*'' ^'""' *"'"'^^'"'^ ^"'^^'^'l^-
...ino that I ren nU, d v^" ^at^'!''^''''' "'•""' "^'""^''^^ "^'^ ^^«' «*■
Ht school I have thou^h^^'^^dd^: X^M i?X thegeo^aphy
at my side would suddenlv i.erish wl J J 1,1 ! \ ? '""""" 1*'*™>*
gaxe, and ponder, and worshi,) '' "'""' ''"'^^ '^"^^•*' ""' *" '»■-
No, we did not "wis zo hant r-m l>f. " ii^ ■ i i .
the largest theatre in tJ^- "rlHt^^^
"I.OU he.: all twTt e I "thi'r '^^ """f^ ^"'"•"' ""^^ ^'-^^^^^^^J
material. Jt was so mi "'tim^"/ V J '?" f ''"' ''""*' "^^ *^^^ »'«^^-
parties fame and ere ted !T V ^f .I'^lgment. Tt brought Loth
sentimental biiS^t\.;n,Sr;" ^^l;?-;'--*'- ^rjl.em in
of poor Mr Tnnm ? /t ,'""""" H*; . ^"t «ho sajs a word n behalf
hini^ wt- Itr Jmt/rter^ I- other name.) Who glorifiel
No}.o<ly. How do vou ZZlljyt ' . .1 " '""'**'•' l''^*''.^' «bout him I
the worid .so mud Eu T How r Y ''"*' "^x ^^""^"^ *'"^* ^^''« ^^-^^
following his wife e 'ry Xre and nfnl- ' ,'"J"^' ^""^'"'^' " ""other'mau
every garlic.xternlaLg " L^^V It"!? "Jh",™' '^ ''^""""' ^"^ "^
emntwl «t-a1 ,>. ) in " '""""» "1 Italy Avith his sonnets to hernrs.
1 < I J
PI
lU
LUCREZIA BORGIA.
mh
ill! very fine ; Ixit it iloen not chime M-ith my JiotionN of right. It is too
one-sided— tixi ungenerous. Let tlio world goon fretting itbout Laura
and Petrarch if it Mill ; hut as for me, my teais and my lamentations
shall be lavished upon the unsung defendant.
We saw also an aiitograjih cojiy of Lucrezia Borgia, a lady for whom
£ have always entertained the highest respect, on account of her rare
histronie cai)al)ilities, her opulence in solid gold goblets made of gilded
wood, her high distinction as an operatic sci-eamer, and the facility with
which she could order a extu])le funeral and get the corpses ready for it.
We saw one single coarse yellow hair from Lucrezia's head, likewise. It
awoke emotions, but we still live. In this same library we saw .some
drawings by Michael Angelo (these Italians call him Mickol Angelo,) and
Leonardo da Vinci. (They spell it Vinci and pronounce it'vii'ichy ;
foreigners always spell better than they pronounce.) We re.serve our
opinion of these sketches.
In another building they showed us a fresco representing some lions
and other beasts drawing chariots; and they seemed to project so far
from the wall that we took them to be sculptm-es. The artist had
shrewdly heightened the delusion by painting dust on the creatures'
backs, as if it had fallen there naturally and j)roperly. Smart fellow if
it be smart to deceive strangers.
Elsewhere we saw a huge Roman amphitheatre, with its stone seats
still in good preservation. Modernized, it is now the scene of more
jjeacefiil recreations than the exhibitions of a party of wild beasts witli
Christians for diimer. Part of the time the Milanese use it for a race
track, and at other seasons they flood it with water and have spirited
yachting regattas there. The guidj told ns these things, and he would
hardly try so hazardous an experiment as the telling of a f\ilsehood, when
it is idl he can do to speak the truth in EnglLdi without getting the
lock-jaw.
In another place we were shown a sort of summer arbor, with a fence
before it. We said that was nothing. We looked again, and saw,
through the arbor, an endless stretch of garden, and shrubbery, and
grassy lawn. We were perfectly willing to go in there and rest, but it
could not be done. It was another delusion — a painting by some in-
genious artist with little charity in his heart for tired folk. 'The decep-
tion was iierfect. No one could have imagined the park was not real.
We even thought we smelled the flowers at first.
We got a cari-iage at twilight and drove in the shaded avenues with
the other nobility, and after dinner we took wine and ices in a fine garden
with the graat public. The music was excellent, the flowers and 'shrub-
bery were pleasant to the eye, the scene was vivacious, every body was
genteel and well-behaved, and the ladies were slightly moustached, and
handsomely dressed, but very homely.
We adjourned to a c.afo and played billiards an hour, and I made six
or seven points by the doctor ])ocketing his ball, and he made as many
by my pocketing my ball. We came near making a carom sometimes,
THK CHAHM Ot' KIKOPKAN IJKK. Jjg
hut Jiot tlie one m-»i were trviiK' to m.il-u ti . i i
Euroije.,,, »tyle-c„.W„,„ aL^rt „ J l.„ " "t,:'!;,'; .",7 ■""""
..eve,- «ei any 1,„ v lyinVS v l'! 'I T " 'n"' "" '''""'■ *'" >"'™
>.u.e,.i,.,.,^,r,;t;':i;,;;r:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ <■•»
some of i t,;„, °, I, J,™ J;/™f"'; ■""I »-,»„„g „■„ o„„|,l ,,,,„,t
when we ou^ht t., 1 e n^(^. i, , ' ' 'C' i'T r"'' "";' ^^^^''^ *^^'^''- ^''^^^
Wo burn uponr t.r'. ^c w h -1 ''"' ""' '"'^'"^ ^^''^J' «''^T-
.1.-0P into aVan u.^l In^^^M . rj'^S ^;!^;i::;;;;;^^ ^'i^ early L
Vnme in Eur..,.,.. Wlieu •,.. •.-rf. y'"'"^"//'*'^ ^^ ''h1' they call a man's
-let it lie Liowlnd .^ r f^^r;''w:;!r'""'^"'i""^^^^'''
the coutirumt in the sain. .oaH. hJ st tr e in f ", "•'"' ' T'" "''""^
wliere on the i.lains -uui it. 1 - 1 '^^'^ *« '. "^—th^ fu.ich is stibled Hon.tv.
'lays; when ara^'lnsU . ""^''^l '"'l''''"»'''y "Ilowo-I to cool for a few
OIIKl OnlV l;IV i-iiii'joli.Qt. ,-.,, 4l. , 1 I..
^■hoM oc-oi>sioa;i!!y
::;;Si';i.»;, ---;•■*.->- «ss;*"^,;;
and renew onr edfres '
-Hi listening t<, nmsii; .>uJ^ ^'^'^^ ".T^ T '''''■ ""^ '^"^
avemies; others assemble in the .ril f ' >" '^'''"'' ^''''^'^ ''' the
"uhtaiy hands play- nC European cife^ t „ V S o " Ti'^ ^'"":/''«
imiHic at evert de • and vet otl Lrw ,.f +'1 '-'"■"/^ 't'"_»'t its fine nulitary
that could not harm a chi'--' The L? ll f 1 ''"'^ ""^'^ I>everai.e«
-ell. They are al 4s ,uiet waf o, . 1 '""^"''^^^'-^ •^'^''y, =md sleej,
ai>le, and aUiative\:f S,^]^^ . ^ ..ithJi^^^^^^ ^^'"^^
^.^nosphe..U.ont us iml in^^Sl^.r ^th: p^^l^ ^V'^ ''^^'^
=.]>ace. ^\ e begin ^o compreheiul what life is f.lr ' ' ^ ' ^■'■•'^^' '^■'"^
/
v^.
l..A«(;
:fa'*!i
'n«
,y
11(>
" HEWAHK. WOMAN I"
tia had an Italian f'iirm on lii« hack. W»- could Imv(! fVIt iitHiient if we
h:ul l)een ofKcially survived and fenced in. Wo olioso to Iiuvi! three l.atli-
taihH, and Itii^p ono.s-tub.s suited to the dij,'nity of anstocnits wiio hud
re.il estate, and bron<,'lit it with them. Aft<u- \ve were .stripped and liad
tiikeu the Hr,-(t oliilly dash, we discovered that liauntin^ atrocity that Jia.s
eiubittered our liv\is in .so many cities and viUa^'es of Italy and France -
there was no so.v;.. I caUed. A woman answered, anci I l.arely ]iad
time to throw my.self against the door -.she would have been 'in, in
another second. [ said ;
"Beware, woman! (Jo away from here — f,'o away, now, or it will ix-
tlu^ worse for you. [ am an unprotected male, but I will |>icserve inv
honor at the p;M'il of my life ! "
Tlie.se words must have frij,ditened her. for she skiirried awa^ \civ
fast.
Dan's ^oice rose on the air:
"Oh, briT)!j: some soap, why don't yovi I"
'Jlie rej)ly was Italian. J)an resumed:
"Hoaj), you know— soaj). Tiiat is what I want — soap. S-o-a-p. .Mia].;
R-o-p-e, soaj) ; s-o-u-p, soap. liurry up ! I don't know how von Irisii spell
it, but I want it. Hpell it to .suit youi-self, but fetil: it. "I'm free/in"."
I heard the doctor say, imi)ressively :
'■Dan, how often liave we told yon that these forei,i;neis cannot undei--
Rtaiid Enjrrlish ! Why will you not dejiend ujion us? Why will you not
tell ?^s• what yon want, and let us ask for it in the lanuiuii^e of the count)w?
It would save us a great deal of the humiliation y<)ur i-eprehensib"le
ifjnorance cati.ses us. J will address this jjcrson in liis mother ton-cue:
'Here, oospetto! coi-jkj di L^aecol Sacramento! Solferino!- Soap, you'.son
of .1 <r,iu :' Dan, if you wonld let ?m talk for yon, yon would never expose
your i<i;norant vulgarity."
Kven this fluent discharge of Italian did not bring the .soaj) at once,
but there was a good reason for it. There Wius not s\ich an article about
tliP establishnient. It Is my belief that there never had been. They
Iiiive to send far up town, and to :-ieveral ditlerent places before thev
finally got it, .so they said. We had to wait twenty oi- thirty minute.s.
The same thing liad occurred the evening l)efore, at th«i hotel, f think
T have divined the reason for this state of things at las(. The English
know how to travel comfortably, and they carry soap with them ; othei-
f(5reigners do not u.se the article.
A.t every hotel we stop at we always have to send out for soaji, at the
last moment, Avhen we are grooming oursehes for dinner, and they ))ut
it in the bill along with the candles and other nonsense. In Marseilles
Iho make half the fancy toilet soaj) we consume in America, but the
Marseillaise only have a v.-igue theoretical ide;i of its use, which thev
have obtained from books of travel, just as they Inive accjuired an
iiucertain notion of clean .shirts, and the peculiarities of the gorilla, and
other curious matters. This reminds me of ]»oor Blucher's nott> to the
liindloi-d in Pans :
AN ILF.I .STHIOI .S l'AINTIN(..
117
Jll.irciiKi:."
I .vrn.«,strato(l Mgainst the .sending of tl.is noto fK-oins.. if u-..« ..
|mx..l uj, that tlK, Jandlonl would n.-v^^r b. ablo tJ^ ^a^S tl^ ^
Fn!S"n' ^■'^"'■'\^^ 'f Hnongl.J.nt it is not much wor«o than tf.o
huKhsh o u. finds in advertisements all over Italy every dav C
A
*'/
it
f
^^
"NOTl.SH."
is I.'m l'''''./"'^i' '1''"'' ^!"' ^''^ ^' '•■*"' 't"'v '"Hi most snnerl.
IS liuiKlsoiiic locate Oil tlu! lic.st .situation oi' tl,,. l.L-,. v.Tfi Vi '
Here, in Milan, in an ancient tumble-down rm'n nf •■ nl,„. i • w
mo,,,.„f„l wreck of tl,e„«t celebrated 11,^,,]; tt ",t
P^S.^'L';; f- ^""* ■'•' ^'■'"- We areLuZuble „<1 Jo?
».«, t. w „,„„„i I,, ,,i„„,,f ;; ';;',2i ,tit, «" ilw" '^^ "'"' "'"' ^''"'■■'' ''«
if'
'I
If!
i 1'^
iff* '
Mil" ,
M
■V '•
•lii'
118
AMATKlll H.AI'TI HKS.
/ri.is laraompl, ,,-c,aIls thv pietmv. '< Tl,<. Lust Supi.er" is imintiHl on
tLo .lilapi.late;! wall of what was a littl.- chapel attached t<. the i.min
church ui ancient tunes, I suppose. It is hatte.e.i and scarred in every
direction and stained and discolored by time, and Napoleon's horse
fcH!ke.d the legs otF most the disciples when thev (the horses, not the
disciples.) were stal)led there more than half a ceiiturv ago.
r recognized the old picture in a moment the Savicmr with howed
Jiead .seated at the centre of a long, rough tal.le with scattering fruits
and dishes ui)on It, and six disciples on either side in their Ion-' rohe.s
talking to each other -the i)icture froui which all engravings and all
copu>s havo been made for three centuries. Perhaj-s no livii,.' man has
ever known an attempt to paint tlie Lord's Siippei- ilitterentlv Tlie
world seems to liave become settled in the beli(,f, Ion- ago, that "it is not
liossil)le tor iuiman genius to outdo this creation of Da Vinci's. I suppo.se
])a.inters will go „„ copying it as long as any of the original is left visible
to the eye. Tlieiv were a dozen esusels in the room, and as manv artists
traiisterring the great i)icture to their canvas3s. Fifty proofs 'of steel
engravings and lithographs were scatteretl around, too. ' And as usual J
could not help noticing liow suiSerior the copies were to the ori-'inal that
IS, to my inexi.erienced eye. Wherever you tind a Raphael, a Kiibens,
a. iMicLael Angelo, a Caracci, or a Da Vinci (and we see them every day )
you hiid artists copying them, and the co])ies are always the hand.^omt^st
JMay lie the originals were handsome when they were new, but they are
not now.
This picture is about thirty feet long, and ten or twelve high, T .should
think, and the figures are at least life si/e. It is one of the lai-.^est
jtAintings in Europe. "
The colors are dimmed with age; the countenances are scaled and
niarretl, and nearly all expression is gone from them ; the hair is a dead
blur upon the Mall, and there is no life in the eyes. Only the attitudes
aite certain.
• ^^*^1»^^,*''«"**' 1»^''^ ft'o"' »11 l'"i't« of the world, and glorify this master-
piece. They st,vn.l entranced before it with bated breath and i)arted
Jips, and when they speak it is only in the catchy ejaculations of rapture-
" O, Avonderful ! " '
"Such e.xiiression ! "'
" Such grace of attitude : "
'' Such dignity ! "
*' Such faultless drawing ! '"
" Such matchle.ss coloriiu-- 1 "'
" Such feeling ! "
" What delicacy of touch ! "
"What sublimity of conception I "
" A yisioii I a yisiou I "
I only envy these peoi)le; I envy tlieni their honest admiration, if it
be honest— their delight, if they feel delight. I harbor no animosity
towai-d any of them. But at the same time the thought ?^v7/ intnide
irNIXSI'IKKl) CKITICS.
Ilir
itself 1II.011 me, How can they see wlmt
think
is not vi.sihif { Wlmt would wf
man wJio looked at some i.
i^ieopatra, and sai.i: "What nn:td;i;:;^i;;;:;;r; ^ wh J'.;:?""'wl;;
exprcs.s,on '.' What would you think <.f a n.anVho «a u," .a d h ^
SS-'trf "^'"'^-^^I'l-^y! -hat fi.elin,: wla t HdlllS^
ot colonn^r! What would you think of a man who stared in ecstacv
upon a desert of stun.ps and said: -Oh, „,v soul, n.v l"ati Z?^?^
what a noble forest is hero ! " ' """'"'• "* "'^'
You would think that those men had an astonishinj,' talent for s.-ein.-
things that had a ready passed away. It was what 1 though wn?
stood l,ef\,re vhe Last Huppe,- and heard n.en apostrophizing wd J
und beaut.eH anc perfections which ha.l fa.Ied ol.t of the i^.- ,. 1
gone a hundred yea,-s before they were born. We .-an i na. e 1 '
Huu y that was once n, an aged face ; we can iuK.gine the fores f we
Hoetho,s,uni>s; butwecan not ab.solutely m- the;,- things when the
.ire not there I am willing to boliev(, that the eve of the pr ctke 1
in of It ,s left supply H t nt that has faded away, restore an e.xpres^n
hat IS gone; imtch and color, and add to the dull canvas until at
ts hgures shall .stand before him aglow with the life, the fee in ' 1,
treshne,ss, yea. with all the noble beauty that was thi.ii's wlienfl,. Tth v
came from the han.l of the master. Bnt I can not work lisnl'
Jn:;innhe;f ""^"^^'""" -'-''- ''•• '^- - "" ^'-y -^y ^^^y
After reading s.. much about it, I am .satisfied that the La«t Suoihm'
was a very miracle of art once. But it was three hundred vear>:a<;o^
It vexes me to hear people talk so glibly of " feeling," - expression "
arf th.t" t ''' t'' T^y '^^^l"'"'"' ""'^ inexpensi^;' teehni aS of
art that make such a tine show in conversations concernin.^ pictures
There iH not one man in seventy-live hundred that can tell u^/uul ic re 1
face IS intended to expi-ess. There is not one man in five hundred h^
can go into a court-room and be sure that he will not niis ake s ,nt
Ye7Ze"""";' f n J"7""" f-the»>lack-heai-teda.s.sassinoutS
let some people talk of "character" and presume to interpret
expression m pictures. There is an an old story that Matthews't e
actor, was once laudmg the ability of the human face to express the
ou?n "f '"f r' ^"^''^^" "' *^'^ ^"•-«*- He said the cou lenance
could disclose what was passing in the heart plainer than the toiigue
" DerCi^r '"'''^' " "'''"'"*' ""'^ face— what does it express ?"
'' Ra-e r ^''^''"^''^■'' ''^'^'^^"^ i-esignation ! What does t/m exj.ress ?"
" StutF ! it means terror ! 77tw "'
" Imbecility !"
•^' Fool 1^ It is smothered ferocity : Xow this .'
y *
fk
m
h
W.:
!H
m
. I
m
l'AfN"Tlh(i or IftK MHiilN MAHY.
/<
'Oh.
, liefilltioii ; Jill/ lis,, iiiu
hcf it iiit'jiiis iiisa
iiity
Sf,li ;Won ! TVc.j.l.! cdolv pirhwi' to iviul it who would tliiiik
on tli(! obelinifH of i
.iixtn-
'"'" * ' ' '' ' ' >*'t ♦'"'.v arc fully lis coiiipotont to (krtiif one
■ iK'diil two very iiit<'lli;,'i'iit t-riticH Hin-iik of
i''<;ii(i.)ii (now ill fill. iiiiisiMiiiiiit Sovillc,) wiUiiii
th
iiif,' as llio otliiT. I liavf lioanl" tw
Murillo's liiimaiMilati- (
tlid past fow (layH. Oil*' saiij
■Oil. til." Vii
•;,'iiis fact' is full of tl rstacy of a )o\ tli
that Icavfs iiotliiiio' riiort' to lie iIcMiivil on i-artli
Tlie other said :
K't' is Ko Imiiililc
at iH coiiii>i('t«i
*• All, that woiid.'ifiil f
as Words ciaild sav it :
N\ ill 1)0 doiK^ ; .sustain Thou Thv servant
I fi'iir ; I tremble ; I
so jileadiiiK it says as jilainlv
ni unworthy. Hut 'I'hy
Tl
:ie reader c.in see the pietun- in any drawiierrooin ; it can 1
reeo^'iiized ; tlu Virgin (thv onl
»e easu
tl
le ereseent of the new niooi:, will
her, and inore coniiiiL; • her hands are ei'ossed
her uplifted eountenane.' falls a Ldorv of the I
y yoiinLrand really IxNiutifuI Viin-in thiit
s in
1.
a.s ever painted hy one of the old masters, some of us think,) stand
I a iiiiiltitudeof eheruhs ho\
lovenii'' al) )iit
upon Jier breast, and upon
annise
yeiitl
hims"lf, if 111! chooses, ii
leavens,
Tl
did it.
emeu read the Viri'in
1 ti-vin<' to deterini
10 reader mi
iiy
IK* which of these
s "expre.sHion" ari.:.lit, or if either of the
'Ml
Al
ly oUH Av]„, in iicjiiainled with the old mastei
s will eompi-eliend liow
itHich the Last Supjier is daina-<..l when F say that the .spectator cm not
leally tell, now, whether the disciples are Hebrews or Italians. These
aneient pamti-rs never succeeded in denationaliziii-,' themselves The
Italian artists painted Italian Vir-iiis, the Dutch painted Dutcli Virtnns
the Vn-^Mnsol the Fivnch painters were Frendnvomen— none of tliem
ever put into the face of tlu; Madonna that indescribable .somethin.' which
proclaims the Jewess, wliether you find her in New York, in Constanti-
nople, m Paris, Jerusalem, or in the Empire of Morocco. I saw in the
hanUN> ,ch Islands, once, a picture, copied by a talented German artist
trom an engravm,!,' m one of the American illustratod papers. It wa,s an
iillegory, representing; :\rr. Davis in the act of signing a seccssi'n, ui or
some such document. Over him Jiovere.l :he ghost of Washvn<»iup n
warning attitude, and in the background a troop of shadowy sohboi-s in
( ontmental uniform were limping with shoeless, bandaged feet through a
ilnvmg snow-.storm. Valley Forge was suggested, of course. The copy
seemed accurate, an.l yet tliere was a discrepancy somewhere. After a
long exai iT-ation I discovered what it was— the shadowy soldiers were
all Germai. ' Toll Davis was a German ! even the liovering ghost was
a (rermaii gj. ' Tlie arti.st had uncon.sciously worked his nationality
ii.to the pic*,-...i-, 'i,) tei: tiie truth. I am getting a little perplexed about
./ohn the I..j..r t .,nu i.i.s portrait' In France I finally grew reconciled
toinmasa I'.-; o . ircm; here :'h is unquestionably an Italian. What
next ( (.an j.t be possible that the painters m.'ike. Ji)hn the Bapti.st a
Spamar.i in Madrid and an Irishnuui in Dublin ^
A WO.NDr.Ulll. KCIIO. - A KISS I rltl A KKANC. 121
W.. took mi o,H.n iMioud... .m.l .Irnv. two mil. .s out of iMilau to '..eo
.e r.-ho, as t ... k„kK. ..x,.,...s.s..,1 it. Tlir ron.l wn.s sn.ooti,, it was LunlcrtHl
by trt.eHtH.ld. a.ul ,cn>ssy Ma.a.Iows. an.l tlu, soft air was (iii.,! with L„
.Klor ol lowers. IVoops of ,.i..t„n.s,,.M. p.-asant «i.is, cani,.. f.-om work
-out... a „., sI,o„t,., at us. Maul., all .nan.a.p ..f Kaia.. of us. „m.1 ..ntiroly
d.W l.ink t ,u:.. truvv.sy, .•oniautie. umwmsI.,.,1 iH-a.saut -iris I ln„| ,-. i,
inadi iiLout n. poetry we.v a j^larin;,' liau.l. "
sighi-HcSIir' "'"'•'"'"'• '^ "'" "" '-''i'i'-"ti"K '-li-f r.uu. tir..so„.,
W.| ,listres.s...l ,ans:,.lv..s v.^ry littl,. al,out th.- astonisl.in;^ ,,.l.o tia. .^,i,Jo
alke.l so much al.,a.t. We w.-ro ^x-owing acrusto.ued to ........niums
v.m.lers that too oi ,■,. proved no wou.l..rs at all. .\nd so wo w.-r.. uu\l
aipj.dy d.sappon.ted to tin.l in th.. s...,uel that tla- ^mide had even faiie.l
to ris.. to tla. .na,i,'Mi(ude of his sul.ject.
We arriv...! at a tunil.l..-down old rookery called th.. Palazzo Sinuaietti
a u.as,sive hewu-ston<, affair .x-eupi...! by a fanuly of ragg..,l Italians A
,'ood-h,..k.-,,.younf,.,nrleon.lueted us t.. a win.h.w o.rtho neon.l floor
Khh,okedout,mac.a.rtw«ra.,louthr..e .si.l.^s by tall huildin^^s. Who
mt her hea.i out at tho wnalow and shouted. The .^eho answr.^l uioiv
"she shout"; ".'"''^ "•";''• ■ f'^ '"''^' ■•' •'^•'""'^"'^' *'"'"l-t -J thro .gh
It slui sliout.-.l, sliarp aial ipiick, a sinyl.. **
" Ha I" the eclio answered :
" ila I- ha : h,i : 1,,^ .__j„^ ,. j^.^ , j,^^ , Ji-a-a-a-a-a '"
an. hual y went otf int.j a rollicking convulsion .,f the joUicst laughter
ZLT r ;'""^;"r'- ^* ^''^^ «*» .loyful- so h.ng cuutiaue.?-Bo
|ei^..ctl^ conhal an.l h.-arty, that every l,o.ly was tbrcxl to join h^
1 liere was no resisting it. •
Then the girl took a gun an.l tired it. We stood nnidy to count the
astonishing clatter of revorhrations. W.. cuhl not sav on,., two Uiree
flust enough but we c.ml,l ,l..t our note-books with 'our jencilpoiuS
aln.,st rapully enough to take down a sort of short-han.l report of tll^
I sel down fifty-tw., distinct repetitions, and then the echo g.,t th«
'^i^^li^al Z- J'" ;'"''"; ''' ^""" •^•^*>-*'""'-' ""'1 thenceforth tho
no o r *""/'f ,^»- ^""'' '^l^*- Aft(.r the separate concussions couhj
ZfTf "'^'' *" ^■«^'«'-'^^'-'^ti«'^« 'l^vin.lle.1 to a wihl, long-sustained
clatter of sounds such as a watchman's rattle produces. t islikely that
this IS the most remarkable echo in the world ^
^b.icrwhenO '"•'""*,' f"'"'? ';' 4««tJ'^y«"ng girl, and was taken a little
^back when she said he might for a franc ! The ccmimonest gallanti-v
compelled him to stand by his offer, and so he paid the franc andCk ti^
ni^vthiiHr fof" " u'"', ^"^ f ^^^'^^ *^""^' *" ^'""'-^^ ^'"1 «''« ^id not care
anytJimg for one paltry kiss, because she had a million left. Then our
comrade, always a shrewd business man. offered t,ot,.k». the ^hfio .„-„„
*.t thirty days, but that little financial .scheme was a failur.. "' ^"
CHAPTER XX
WE left Milan by rail. Tlio Catliedral six or wveii miles behind us
— vast, dreamy, blueish snow-clad mountains twenty miles in
front of us,— these were the accented points in the scenery. The more
immediate scenery consi.sted of lields and form-houses outside the car.
and a monster-headed dwarf and a moustached woman insitle it. These
latter were not show-peojjle. Alas, deformity and female^ l)eards are too
common in Italy to attract attention.
We passed through a range of wikl, i(ictures(pie hills, steep, wooded,
cone sliaped, with rugged crags projecting liere and there, and with
dwellings and ruinous castles perclied awav up toward the drifting
clouds. We lunched at the curious old town\)f C^omo, at the foot of the
lake, and then took the small steamer and liad an afternoon's pleasure
excursion to this place, — Bellagio.
When we walked ashore, a ijarty of policemen (people whose cocked
hats and showy uniforms would shame the finest tmiform in the military
service of the ITnited State.s,) put us into a lit^tle stone cell and locked us
ni. We had the wliole passenger list for company, but their room would
have been preferable, for there was no light, there were no windows, no
ventilation. It was close and liot. We were much crowded. It was
the Black Hole of Calcutta on a small scale. Presentlv a smoke rose
about our feet— a smoke that smelt of all the dead things of earth, of all
the putrefaction aiul corruj)tion imaginable.
We were there five minutes, and when we got out it was hard to tell
which of us carried the vilest fragrance.
These miserable outcasts called that " fumigating" us, and the term
was a tame one indeed. They fumigated us to guard themselves against
the cholera, though we hailed from no infected port. We had left the
cholera far behind \is all the time. However, thev must keep e]jidemics
away somehow or other, and fumigation is cheaper than soaj). Tliey
must either wash themselves or fumigate other people. Some of the
lower classes had rather die than wash, but the fumigati )n of strangers
causes them no pangs. They need no fumigation themselves. Their
habits make it unnecessary. They carry their i<reventivo with them ;
they sweat and fumigate all the day long. I trust I am a liumble and a'
consistent Christian. I try to do what is right. I know it is my duty
to " pray for them that despitefully use me ;" and therefore, hard an it
•m.f '
NHIHT IIV THK I.AKK Ol' COMO.
1:
lard to tell
IS, I Hhall still try to pni y for these fiuaif,'!itiu-,'s, mf,coaroiii -stuffing or'--aii
•grinders. ^ '^
Our hotel sits at tiie water's ed^'c at least its frout t;aruen does- and
we walk among the shrubbery and smoke at twiliirht; wo look afar oft"
at Switzerland and the Alps, and feel an indolent willinivness to look no
closer; we go down the steps and swim in tlu^ lake; we take a shapely
little boat and uail abroad among the i-efleotions of the stars- lie on the
thwarts and listen to the distant laughter, the singing, the soft melody of
tiutes and guitars that comes floating across the water from pleasiu-in.'
gondoL-us; we close the evening with exasperating billiards on one of those
same old execerable tables. A midnight luncheon in our ami)le bed-
chamber; a final smoke in its contracted Nei-anda facing the water, the
gardens and the mountains; a summing up of the day's events. Then to
bed, with drow.sy brains lird-as.sed with a ma<l i)anorama that mixes ui>
pictures of France, of Italy, of the shij., of tlu, ocean, of home, in grotesque
and bewildering disorder. Then a melting awa^• of familiar faces, of cities
and of tossing waves, into a great calm of foriretfidness and ))eace
After which the nightmare.
Breakfast in the morning, ami then tiie Lake.
I did not like it yesterday. I thought Lak«, Tahoe w;is wm-h finer I
liave to confess no^^■, however, that my judgment erred .somewhat, thou-h
not extravageutly. I always had an idea that (^omo was u vast basin'()f
water, like Tahoe, shut in by great mountains. Well, the border of huce
mountains is here, but the lake itself is not a basin. It is as crooked as
any brook, and only from one-quarter to t\s-o-thirds as wide as the
Mississippi. There is not a yard of low ground on either side of it-
nothing but endless chains of mountains that spring abruptly from the
water's edge, and tower to altitudes %aiying from a thousan.l to two
thousand feet. Their craggy sides are clothed with vegetation, and white
s])ecks of hou,ses peej) out from the luxuriant foliage everywhere; they are
even perched upon jutting and picturescjue pinnacles a thousand feet
above your heiul.
Again, for miles along the shores, handsome country seats, sun-ounded
by f^vrdens and groves, sit fairly in the water, sometiines in nooks cawed
by Nature out of the viue-hmig precipices, and with no ingi'es.i or egi'ess
save by boats. Some have great broad stone staircases leading dowi to
the water, with heavy st(jne balustrades ornan.ented with statuary and
fancifully adorned with creeping vines and bright-colored flowers— "for all
the world like a droi)-curtain in a theatre, and lacking nothing but lon.v-
waisted, high heeled women and plumed gallants in silken tights comimr
down to go serenading in the splendid gondola in waiting.
A great feature in ("omo's attractiveness is the muftitude of prettv
houses and gardens that clusttn- upon its shores and on its mountain sides
Ihey look so snug and so homolike, and at eventide when everythin--
seemed to .slumber, and the music of the vesper bolls comes .stealing over
the water, one almost believes that no wlusre else than on the Lake of
Como caiithei-e be found such a paradise of tranquil repose.
,'* ^''■^[
"'*j;
124
ITS Sl'EXEftV.
From my window Jn-iv in Bellas,-!,,, J have .•. view of the other huU
ut tlie hike now, whicli is as hfuutiful as a picture. A scfirnHl aurl
wrinkled precipice rises to a height .,f ei-hteen hundred feet ; on a tiny
.ench halt-way .q, its vast wall, sits a little snow-Hake of a cliurch, no
.iMxer than a n.artin-box, apparently ; skirtinir the base of the cliff are a
iiuiK red oran<re -roves and -aivlens, flecked with glimpses of the wliite
^Iwellings that are buried in theui ; in front, three or four gondolas lie.
Mile upon the water -and in the burnished mirror of the lake, mountain
chapel, Jiouses, groves and bonts are counterfeited so brightly and so
< Icar y that one? scarcc^'iiows whei'e the reality leaves off and the rellec-
tion begins I
The surroundings of this picture are tine. A niih^ away, a grove-
puiiied promontory juts far into the Like and glasses its palace in the
'lue ((eptJis : in midstream a. boat is cutting tlie shining surface and
loaving a long track behiiul. like a ray of light : the mountains behind
4ire veiled in a dreamy purple hiue ; far in the opposite direction a.
tumblwl niass ot domes and verdant slopes and valleys bars the lake
and here indeed does distance lend enchantment to the view--for on
this broad canvas, sun nnd clouds and the richest atmospheres ha.V(.
hlended a tliousand tints together, and over its surface the filmy liglits
aiul shadows drift, liour after hour, and glorify it with a beauty tliat
seems reliecte.I ont of Heaven itself. Beyond 'all (pie.stion, this is tlie
most voluptuous scene we have yet looked upon.
hast night the scenery was striking and picturesque. On the other
si.le crags and trees and snowy houses were reflected in the lake witli
a Monderful distinctness, and streams of light from many a distant win-
dow shot far abroad over the .still watei-s. On this side, near at hand
.gr(!at mansions, white with moonlight, glared out from the midst of
masses of foliage that lay black and shapeless in the shadows that fell
troin the clifl above--and down in the margin of the lake every feature
of the weird vision was faithfully re2)eate(l.
To-day we have idled through a won<ler of a garden, attached to a
tJucal estate— but enough of description is enough. I judge. I expect
that this was the same place the gardener's son deceived the I.ady of
liyon s with; but I do not know. Yon may have heard of the pa.ssa<n5
>;omewhere : * in
^ "A (loop vale.
MuU out by Alpine liills Cioin th« riulc workl,
Nuar 11 clear lake inar>;ii)p(l by fruits of irold
And whispering myrtles :
(ilassing softest skies, eloudkss,
Save with rare and roseate sluidows ;
.\ palace, lifting to eteinal heaven its marbled wal];.,
From out a glossy bower of coolest foliage, musical with birds."
That is all very Mell, except the "clear" part of the lake. ]t
<>ertainly i.s clearer than a great many lakes, but how dull its
waters ai-e compared with the wonderful transparence of I^ko
COMO COMPARKl* WITH TAH(H:. ]•).-,
TahoL. : r speak of the x\o,tl. .sl.o.-e of T.ho,., whe.v om- cm ooui.t tl...
scal.sonatrout.t,.,cl.pthof. h„ndml un.l eighty fe 't 1 1 . v ,-
to ^..t Ins statenumtolf at ,.„• hero, l.ut with uoluc-o.ss so I ■ ve '•
])nvatoly concerned, I abate not a jot of the H , al Hsse.ton tl, ."'''
(a t.<n,t of the large km.l,) at a depth of a hunchvd and ri,d»tv fee
may see every pebble on the button)^ nii-dit even con.,/ ..,'•<•
inns. People talk of the transparent ;;tl ; o^^e M^X i:«! ">
Acenpnleo, but n. n>y own experieiu'e 1 know they c<u7 no "cmSu e
with those 1 am s,u,akin. of T have fished f^.r troJt, '1^,^ 3^
a nieasur(!d dei.t h of ei'ditv-fonr fo..*- T I.., xi '-•""Jt, ana at
to the bait, ani 1 couKS I "; L\ :^r ':Z ^tlT T ' f; "T
have seen the trout themselves at Tli.; dE.Jet. t'o pe;/:;'' ''""">
As I go back in spirit and recall that nol.h- s.a, renosin- -unun.^. rl, •
snow-peaks six thousand feet above the oee„. tC ■ "
stn.ng „po„ ,,, again, that (!o.n.w"d^:k^;TlX\';>^^^
eoiu-tier in that august pi-esenc(,. ' •^''^"' ''^*'"
ve^'Z,r^ rlbo ''^r^' "r'*'^"^' ''" L^^gislatnre that still troni year to
Neai permits Tahoe to retain its unmusical co-nonien ' ^rilioV ' T
I am satisM it ,va.s „a„,,,l bv tjll jl,l^ f -nt.v-.im,, .ly ,t ,» D.gj,^.
■ll
126
MKKTING A SHIPSIATK.
But I am growing luuvliablt;. I will return to my comparison of tho
Lakes. Como is a little deejier than Tahoe, if people here tell the truth.
Tliey say it is eighteen hmidred feet deep at this jjoint, but it does not
look a dead enough Ijhie for that. Tahoe is one thousand five hundred
and twenty-five feet deep in tlie centre, by the State C^eologist's measurement.
They say the great i)eak opposite this town is five thousand feet iiigh ;
but I feel sure that throe thousand feet of that statement is a goo(J
honest lie. Tlie lake is a mile wide, here, and maintains about that
width from this point to its northern extremity — which is distant sixteen
miles; from here to its southern extremity— say tifteen miles— it is not
over half a mile wide in any place, T "^should thiidc. Its snow-clad
niountains one hears so nuu;h idtout are only seen occasionallv, and then
in the distance, the Alps. Tahoe if from ten to eighteen miles wide, and
its mountains shut it in like a wall. Their summits are never free from
snoAv the year round. One thing about it is very strange ; it never has
oven a skim of ioe ujwn its surface, although lakes in the same ran^^o
of mountains, lying in a lower and warmer temperatm-e, freeze over Tn
winter.
It is cheerful to meet a. shipmate in these out-of-the-way places and
compare notes with him. We have found one of ours here— an old soldier
of the war, who is seeking bloodless adventures and re.st from his
cam])aigns, in these sunny lands.*
* Col. J. lIiutoN- FosTKi:, editor of a Pittsbiu-gli journal, iind a most estimable
geiitleinan. As tlicsu sla-ota aru bciii^ prci>are<l for tlie Jue.ss, I am pained to learn
ot h!s deoea.se shortly after liis rotura home— M. '1'.
Im.
CHAPTER XXT.
.£;»
Wh voyiV,t;t'<l l,y .stmiaor down tlif> F.a-o ,li J.ecoo, through wild
mountaii. scenery, and by lianih'ts an<l viUas. and disembarked at
the town of Lecco. Fhey said it was two hours, l.v earriage. to th«
ancient city of Bergamo, and tliat we wo,dd arrive there in good Hcasou
tor tlie railway train. We got an open barouclie and a wild, boisterous
.Inveis and set out It was delightful. We ha.l a fast team and a
perfectly smooth road. There were towering clitis on our l(>ft and the
pretty Lagodi Lecco on our right, and every no\v and then it rained on
us. Just before, startin.g, the driv.-r picked uj., in the street, a scump of
u cigar an inch long, and put it in his mouth. When he had carried it
thus about an hour, I thought it would be onlv (liristian charity to -iv«
him a light I handed him my cigai-, which I had just lit, and he init it
m his mouth and returned his stum], to his pocket ! I never saw a more
sociable man. At least I never saw a uu.n who was more sociable on a
slioi-t acquaintance.
We saw interior Italy now. The houses were of .solid stone, and not
often in good repair. The peasants and their child.-en were idle, as a
general thing, and the donkeys; and chickr-ns mad(. themselves at home
in drawing-room and bed-chamber and were not molested. The drivers
ot each and every one of the slow-moving market-carts we met were
stretched ni the sun upon their inerchandiz-, sound asleep. Every tliree
or four hundred yards, it seemed to me. we came uj.on the shrine of some
saint or otiier— a rude picture of him buili: into a huge cross or a stone
pillar by the i-oad-side— some of the pictures of the tSaviour were curiosi-'
ties 111 their way. They represented him stretched upon the cross his
•countenance distorted with agony. From tin* wounds of the crown of
t lonis ; from the j.ierced side ; from the mutilated hands and feet • from
the scourged body-from every hand-breadth of his person streams of
i.lood were flowing '. Such a gory, ghastly spectacle would frighten tlie
children out ot their sen.s-es. i should tliink. There were .some unique
auxiliaries to the painting which added to its spirited efiect These
were genuine wooden ami iron implements, and were prominently disiiosexl
round about the figure ; a bundle of nails ; the liammer to drive them •
the sponge ; the reod tliat saj)ported it ; the cup of vinegar ; the ladder
:or the ascent of the cross : the si.ear that pierc<nl the Saviour's side,
liie crown of th'jrns was male of real thorns, and was nailed to the
4M
Mi
;^i
m •> \.
12S
THK LECENI).
sacred lioad. In somn Italian churoli-piiintiivj^s, own by tlif old musters,
the Saviour and tlio Vir;,'in wore silver or ;,'ilde(l crowns that are fasteneil
to the pictured head with nails. Tlio etlcH;t is as i,'rott!sque as it is
incongruous.
Here and there, on the fronts of roadsidt; inas, we found huge, coars.>
frescoes of suHering niai-tyrs like those in the slu-inos. It eould not have
diniinislied their sutlerings any to he so uncoutldy represented. We
were in the heart and home of priestcraft — of a happy, eh(>eiful, contented
ignorance, superstition, degradation, pt)verty, indolenc(\ and everlasting
unaspiring worth Itissness. And we said fervently, it suits these peajjle
precisely ; let them enjoy it, along with the other animals, and Ifeaveii
forbid that they he molested. IIV feel no malice toward the.se fumigators.
We jiassed through the strangest, funniest, undrea)n])t-of old tt)wns,
wedded to the customs and stee]ied in the di'eams of the elder ages, ami
perfectly unaware that the world turns round ! ^\ud perfectly indifferent,
too, as to M-hethev it turns round or stands still. T/ipi/ have nothing to
do hut to eat and sleep and sleep and eat, and toil a little when they can
get a friend to stand by and keej) them awake. T/n'// ai-e not paid for
thinking— ^/(ey are not paid t6 fret about the world's concerns. Thev
were not resjjectable people — they were not worthy people — they wen*
not learned and wis(< and brilliant people — ^but in their breasts, all their
stupid lives long, resteth a pteace that passeth miderstanding ! How can
men, calling tlieni.selves meU; consent to be .so degraded and hapi)y.
We whisked by many a gray old medieval castle, clad thick with ivy
that swung its green banners down from towers and turrets whoi-e once
some old Crusader's flag had floated. The driver pointed to one of these
ancient fortresse.«, and said, (I translate) :
" Do you see that great iron liook that projects from the wall just
under the highest window in the ruined tower l" »
We said we could not see it at such a distanc<', but had no (hnibt ir
was thei-e.
"Well," he said, '-there is a legend connected with thtit iron hook.
Nearly seven Inmdred years ago, that castle was the ])roperty of the
noble Count Luigi Genuaro Guido Alphouso di (Jeuova — "
" What was his other name i" said Dan.
"He had no other name. The name I have spoken was all the name
lie had. He was the son of — "
" Poor but hone.st parents — that is all right — no^er mind the particulars
— ffo on with the legend."
THE LEGEND.
Well, then, all the world, at that time, wa,'^ iim wild excitement about
the Holy sepulchre. All the great feudal lords in Europe vrere pledging
their lands and })awning their plate to tit out men-at-arms so that the\
might join the grand armies of Christendom and win renown in the Holy
Wars. The Count Luigi raised money, like the rest, and one mild
^ptember moniing, anne*! with battle-axe, portcullis and tlui!ulc:''ng
THItlLMN(i MKDIKVAI, IIOMANCK.
U'U
cu Venn, Jjo mle tJirou«li tlu, o-rvuvvs au.l hnvkU-vs of l.i.s dou\ou-W,u
V-, has ,,.Ul,ujta tvuo,. of ChnstiaM huu.lits as .v..,- steppo.l i, I ■! 1
l.a.l Ins swor, , Kxoah n.r. witl. hi,,.. His h,.a„tif,.l c.ount.ss a. ui h .•
.vom,. .iau.r hter wav..<I l,i,„ ,, t.a.-f,,! a.lin, f.-o,,. il,. battorin",.a s a I
h.,ttn.sses of tho ort.-eHs, a„,l h. -..Ih.p.nl away wit], a happy' h..','!
He „,a.U> a raid on ., un^^libori,,.- I.aron a.,.l c.u,„p]„t..l h ,; o,.lfit ' witi,
ho booty socuml. Ho thou raz.d th. .astl. tu til f;To,n„l, „,assa ,v
the fam, V a,,.! niovo.l o„. They w.mv har<lv f.lh.ws in the -n ,n h
daysofoh.valry. A as ! thoso days will „ovc.V ooiaeaKain. '^
Count Luiiti ^o'ew h,«h ui fau,e i„ Hulv Lau.i. Ii.rpl„„.,,,i i,,u> thr
carua^oof a h,mdred batth^s, but his .oo.i Kxcalibur al Javs bro. "ht 1 .
STL i V^ «unm lon« uiarches ; he suile.vd huu^.v and
An V ' r '" '""'''.'■'• ^'" ''"^^'"i«l"''l i" loathsouu- pla^M.e-h'ospitals
And n,auy and u,any a tiu.e h.- thought of his hnod on -s at hou, ' u d
vonde,.e,l if all w,.s weU with then,. But his heart said. Peaee, i i
thy brother watohini,^ over thv household I . , .s
''' * * * " * * ' * * -^ *
Forty-two years waxed and waned ; the goo.l ti^ht was won ; (io,|f,.ev
So'i;:s;:;;t:;idS::^'''''"''''' '-'- '-- ^■'" '-"- --^ *•- -•-
Twihi^ht was aj.proachin-. Kifty Harle.juins in Howin-- robes
pproached t us castle wearily, for they were on' foot. an<l the Ist o u
then- «>irn.ents betokeuo.1 that they had traveled fa, Tl,e> o erto
™nt. a,ul asked Inn. if it were likely they could get Ibo, and a h 1 !
mit It^r:;' r^^''^"""^^^^ "-• i^l--l-nce. au,oal
^Hh^ H "'1 .•r^''\"r' "'*'' ^^''"'"""^ oounteuauce--"fc.r,"
"Mairy." ,,uoth the pea.sant, "an' it please you,- worshiim ye ha.l
.etterjourneyuianyagood rood hence with yo',,,. ju-.di ! j-e, t "
trust your bones in yonder castle." ' " '
"How now, sirrah!" exclaimed the chief n,onk. " exi.lain thy rib-dd
speech, or by'r Lady it shall go ],ard m ith thee." ^ '
he.ur"s ioT* ".ountebank, 1 did but utter the truth that was in my
Le ,;h f ''T'^'*"'''*''* *'"^* ''"• >*'t^"t «>^'l tl'^ stout Count
he r ; d '" a|."\ "T^' 'T;' *■'" ?'^*'^'^ ^^••""••^* battlenxents would
" The good Lor\ Luigi r
of tt c uic wnxl ; r ''"' ?.'"r'^ • ^'^-^'-'^ ^^^'^-^ not known the filthers
none to iteifie ,"''?' ^"" ^"""'^^' ' "•^'''^''' ^^-^'^^ "»'' «»"« -'"t''
uone to intoilere ; and whosoeyer would nught tarry in his halls in
%h for Holy^^^^^^^^^^^^ r ^'"'' '^""' *^'" «""^' '^«""* ^'^^'^ J^^''«' to
nght toi Holy Cross, and many a year hath Mown since word or token
J"-
130
TirniM.iNi; mk.uikvai, romanc^k.
have wt' liiifl of him. .Men say liis hones lit« blcacliin;; in tlic liclHs of
Palestine."
" And now ;"
*'.Vow.' (Soil 'a inercy, tlii' rniel liconanlo lofds it in the castle. Me
wrinj^s taxes from the poor; he I'ohs all innclern that journey i)y his
gates ; he spends his <lays in feuds and murders, and his nights in revel
and del)au(;h; he roasts the fathers of the elnireh U]>on his kitchen spits and
i-rijoyeth the same, calliiiij; it pastime. These thirty years Lui^'i's countess
liath not heeu seen by any Ik* in all this land, and many wh'sper that
she ))ines in the dungeons of the casth* foi' that sht; ■will not wed with
Leouai'ilo, sayiii,<i her dear lord stilj li\eth and that she will die ei'e she
prove false to him. They whisper likewise that lur daui,diter is a prisoner
lis well. Nay, tjjood jui:i,ders, seek ye I'efreshment other wheres. "iVere
better that ye perished in a Christian May than that ye pluni,'ed from off
yon dizzy towtM*. (Ji\ (* ye good day."
" (Jod kwp ye, gentle knave farewell."
Hut heedless oF tlii' peasant's Mai'hing, rhe players move<l strightwav
toward the castle.
Word was brought to Count Leonardo that a comiiany of mountebiniks
besought his h(),spitality.
" Tis well. Dispose of them in the custouiai'V manniu'. N^it .stay I
I have need of them. JiCt them t-ome hitlit^r. Later, cast thi-m from
the battlements — or— how many jiriests have ye on handT
" The, day's results are uieagre, good my lord. .\n abbot and a do.;en
beggerly friars is all w;; have."
" Hell and furies! Is the estat<' going to .seed ? Send hither the
n\ountebanks. Afterward, broil them with the i)rie.st.s."
The robed and close-cowled hai'le(piins entei-ed. 'I'he grim Jiooiiardo
.sat in state at the head of his council board. llangtMl np and down the
hall on cither hand .stood near a hundred m(>n-at-arms.
" Ha, villains !" quoth the count, " What can ye do to earn the hospi-
tality }e crave."^o^»Ho;fl"^
" Dread lord and mighty, crowded audieiuws liave greeted our humble
etlbrts -with rapturous a})plaiise. Among our body count wts the vei'satile
and talented Ugolino ; the jnstly c:'lebrated Kodolpho ; the gifted and
accomplished Iloderigo ; the management have spared neither ))ains nor
e.\pt»ns(* — "
" 8'death ! what can ye <lo I Va\\\> thy prating tongue."
"Good my lord, in acrpbatic feats, in practice with the dund)-bells, in
balancing and ground and lofty tumbling are avc versinl and sith yonr
hi'dniess asketh me, I ventnre hereto iiubli.sh that inthetrulv marvelous
and entertaining Zampillaerostation
"Gag liim ! Throtth' him 1 I>ody of Bacchus ! am 1 a dog that I am
to be assailed with plosyllabled blasphemy like to this? ]>iit hold !
Luci-etia, Isabel, stand foi+h ! Sivrah, behold this dame, this weeping
wencli. The tirst I mairy, within tlfc hour ; the other shall dry her tears
or feed the vultures. Thou and thy vagabunds .shall crown the wedding
with thy meiTy-nn\ kings. Fetch hither the priest !"
TIIUILUNfl MHDIKVAI. IIOMANCK.
!31
Tlie (biiio spnm-; toward thn chief jilayoi-.
him ! S;u,, us, (), save thy in.r.s,.cnt.,l .s..,,,,li:iuts !"
(.1.0 fluri- ]u.,-.s...If iit his t«,t HH.l danpod Lis kiues
" Nk-vku r
•'Thou di., :- und the swonl l.Mj.od t'n.n, its K,r,,,l,h;,nl
I'Hital Leonardo's weapon from In's -rasi) '
" A Liugi to the r(\scMie ! VVlioo|) !
" A Leonardo ! tare an ouns !"
"Oh, (;o(.l. Oil, (Jod, „iy husi.and !"
'• Oh, (Jod, Oh, (ioil, niv wife '"
" My fatlier !"
'• My i)recious :" [Tahh'au.j
knic!;i;"V^'"^^!'7"!'? Jiis usurping l.rothcr Jnnd and font. Ti.e pra. licol
Knights from Palestme made hoUday s.K.rt of cirvu,- the ik^I^1:^^
Snis! ^^ "^''*" "" '"'^"•'^'' ^'"' ''^'^'^'^ter. Joy! w.s Jl .
"But what (Hd they do witli the wicked hrother '"
iv'^le oiS!:"^~""''' '""'"' ^'" "' ^'"^ ''-'^'^ '""^'^ f --* «P^^vkin, of^
"As how?"
" Pa.'.sed it u). tJiroii-h his -ills into his mouth "
Leave him thei-e V
"Couple of yeai-s."
" Ah — is — is he dead ?"
;'H« hvndre-d and lifty years ago, or such a, ,nattor."
Splendid l'-.2;end— splendid lie-<lrive on."
f^il
i;j'j
AI'I'UtVVCHlNC \ K\J( r.
W«' rcai'litMl tlir (iiiitiut old fctrtilitnl city of HiM'^aiao. tin- ivmnviu-d
111
hiHtory. suiiic tlnvi'-iniiutt'i's of im lioiir ln^t'orc (lie triiin was rc.uly to
sbirt. Tlu' jdaw liiis tliirty or fDi-ty tliuiisiind inhahitiuitH. and is
nMnarkiil)l(' for boiii!,' tlic birthpliU'c of llarl('i|iiiii. Wla-ii -ac diMcovered
thit. that li'iffiid of oiir di'ivci' took to itself a iirw iiitci'cst in .iiir oyos.
Hi'stt'd and ri'fi -slicd, uc took tin- rail liaiipy and contciit.'d. 1 shall
not tarry to spoak of tlu* liamlHonio Laj;o lU (Jardi ; it.s statt-ly t-astlo that
liolds in its stony Ijdsohi tlinsi!or(!tsof aii i\'^(' so i'i'iia)ti' thai even i radilion
j»o','.th n')t hack to it ; the iMiposiiiL; inonntaiu sccnciy tiiat < ir.ii)li!>'S the
laiidsfaiic thrvciSout;-! ; nor yet of ancient Padtia, or liau^lity N'crona ;
nui' of their ]Moilta.^u('.^ and CaindotK, their famous huK'onics and toinl)s
of Jnlict and 'ioni'.'o ft, a!., lint Inirry straight to the ancient city of the
se'i, tht^ widowed lii'ide of the Adi'iatie. [t was a lon,n'. Ion;;' ride. But
toward cNcnin:;', as we sat silent and hardly oonseioiis of \s hei'c we Averi'
— Hiilidiied into that meditative eidm that comes so surely after a
conversational storm some one shouted - -
" Vkmck !"
And sure pnou<;h, afloat on the placid soa a lea^^ue away, lay a groat
city, with its towers and domes and steeples drowsing iu a tjohleu mi:;t
of fiunset.
m il
CHAPTKK XXn.
TH .^ Vem,.,. u-lurl, w.s a lutu^l.ty. i„vi„oil,l,>, nmi,nuHoe,u K,,M,i,Uc
n; H^ost .Hvaus w.t . tl...].. «ai)s an.l UrM tl.c. pi..,, with i^Zl^,^
o <■v.n.^ dnn... ,s f..ll,>n a proy to poverty, nc.,^lect luul n.olancho/v .I<.-'v
Six mu<he,l y.>ars a,^.,, Venice was tho A„toc,-at .-f (,S,nnnrm" h.M t tit
Klovv ,» .l,.,,art,.,l, „„,| „.itl, l,„r m„„l,lin» ..„„„1„ , ■ f rt ,- vs , J
Nu 1 ,, -, ),e, ,,„v„rty „ml her lH,mili„tion, ,md tiiii.k of lier only a, .,hr
he,,„,,c.K.e„vil,V,..s„f tf olden .i„„ w^^ w , to Cft, '^.t*
latm-um be;,„t,r,s Mhile the say fion.loli.,. i„ ,,i|ke„ doublet touel ,,1
ill S""";-;;""' ,»'"K "« »"ly SoudoUe,, can ,ing ! This the ft„»™
dola, and th„ tl,e go.seon, g„,„|„|ie, |_ ,,,e „,„»,„ inkv, nT^ itS'
r .'
%l
•m
I3i
Tin: tiHANU ^^;IK n^ modm.kiht.
wiili ii Hiilil« In'iirhP-lKuly fliiinicd dri to tli»' iiiidillf ol il, and lli>' oilit r ;\
iHHiigy, liiir( f(M)t('d ^idtt'r-sni|if. \\illi n jMiitioii of his lainifiit on tixliilti
tioji, wliicli hlioidd li!i\(> Ixni sarrcd IVoin jmliiic scrutiny. I'l't-si ntly, as
li(i iniiKtii a conior, and shot ]iis lii'arKt> into a dismal ditfli )it't\v(>nii two
l<»iii; fows of towdfinu', iritctiantcil laiildinijs, tlii' ;;ay <,'ondolitT l«'!^an t<>
sins', tiiif to tlu' tiaditions of Ids ran
I stood it a little while
I'hen
r said :
" Now, la^re, Hod(Mi;i() (lonzales Michael Ani^elo, I'm a piljjirini, ami
!'mi a !-(tian;;('r, hut. I am not ^oiiii; to liavc my feelin,(,'s lacerated hy any
tttu^\ (mttirwaiilin^ iih that. If that '^m-n on, one of as ha.-. >,'ot to lake
watt!!', [t in cnongh that my clierishi-d dreams of \ fidce have lieeii
l»li<;iit(!d fonni'r us to the idinantii' j^iaulola and the j.f(av,'eons j^ondolier ;
this .system of distructi(ai shail yo no faitlier : I will accept the heiirsf'.
under j)rotes(, and >ou may tiy yonr llai,' of truce in |ieace, liut liere 1
renist(i- a dark and Moody oath that vou shan't sinii. .Vnothei' yelp, :ind
ov>:rhoard you go." *
' i>e;j[!iTi to foci that the old N'enice of sonj,' and stoi-y had <.le|iarL(;d
fcH'Hver. r.nt. 1 was too hasty. in a few minutes we swept j^'nicefidly
out into t,ht) (Irand Canal, and under the mellow moonlij,dit the Venice of
piiefry and romance stood revealed. I-{ij,dit from the water's edge ro.se
long lines of stiitely palaces of niarhle ; gondolas were gliding swiftly
hither nml thlllaM' and di.sappearing su<ldeidy througli unuspocted gates
.•t!id .dloys; jtiaiderous stone bridges threw their shadows athwart the
gtittering waves. Tliere Avas life and motion e\frywheie. and yet
«V'a-ywhe]v there was a hush, a stealthy sort of stillness, that was
siiggestivo of .secret enterprises of hnivoes and of lovers; and clad liiilf in
nidoulteams and half in niy.stei-scais shadows, the grim old mansions of
thf. k«pul»lio .seemed to liave an e.\}iression about them of Inu lug an eye
out t'or just sucli euterpi'isos as these at that same moment. .Mii.sic came
tlottting over the waters — V^enice was complete.
It wasjv }ieautiful picture very soft and dreamy anil beautiful. Hut
wiiat was this Venice to compare* witli the Venice of nudiiight? Nothing.
Tlioro was a fete —a grand fcto in honor of .some saint who had been
instrumental in clieckiug the cholera three hundred years ago, and all
Veiiico was abroad on tlu; water. It was no common affair, for the
Vwictiaus did not know how soon they might need the saint's .services
again, now that th(! cholera was spreading every wliere. So in one viust
.space say a third of a mile wide and two miles long -were collected twn
thousand gondolas, and every one of them had from two to ten, twenty
.iit(l even thirty coloured lanterns suspended about it, and from four t<,) a
dozen occupants. Just as far as the eye could reach, these painted lights
v>':rre massed together- like a vast garden of many-colored tiovvei-s, except
thatthesE* blo.s.s()ms were never still; they were ceaselessly gliding in and
out, and mingling together, and suchicing you into bewildering attempts
to foHow their mazy evolutions. Here and there a strong red, green, or
blue glaro from a roekut tli.it was stru-'-d
UlL
a\'ia%, .Np
ileudidlv
illununated all the boats aidund it. Eveiy gondola that swam by us,.
VEMCK li^ M<)OM.|(iirr.
1 X)
With itH (T^Mcents a.Hl i.yruini.ls an.l rnvUs of ..ulon.l |„mpH h.inR aloft
iK^low. was u pu.f „n- : .a,l .|„. n.|I....tiu,H ,.F thus.. Ii.|.,s, s„ |..,.,, «„ sl-iwle ■
NouumlH.rl.,s,s,H,.„.aM.v..-ul.M„v,l an.l su distoitcl an.l wrinkT.Ml l.v ti.e
svavH. was a putun. Iik.wis... an.l ....n ,la,t was n...i.a„tin,'Iv l.-autiful
Many a„. .nany a party ^f yu,,,., la,li...s an.! ...n.|..n„.n I.ad' tl.-ir stat o
X..n. i..ias han. ls.Mn.. y .l....„rat..,|. an.l at., su,.,...,- ,.„ 1 r.l. Lnn^in" t e •
wa!l..w- a.l.Ml. whjt.. ..,.avatt...l varl.ts t., wait upon tl...,n. at^l ha vZ
th...r tahlos t,u-lml out as if fc- a hn.Iai supp,- '. Th.-v ha.l UuJ2
al.j,.« th« costly «l..l..lan.ps tVo.a th.i,- .l.awi.y..oon.s, an.l th' ^'Z
Mik.ncM.rtaMHfrom th.. Sana. pla,.e.s. [ suppos.. An.l th.-v Ir^l also
hnm.^ht pianw an.l ytntars, an-l tln.y pl.ynl an,| s.nr, ..p,.,.as; whil.- th.-
I'l.'lM-ian pap-M- Ianl..rn.Ml K.m.l..Ias fnan th.- snlM.rl.s an.l th.- I.a.-k alh-vs
.'luwd.'.l anain.l tostaiv an.l listen. •
Th.To was nnisi,. .•v.-rywla-.v daai.,s..s. strini;- hands, hrass Imn.Is
llntoH, ev.ry th.n;;. I was so .sniTnundcl. walh- 1 in. with nn.si... nvvnu
ho..no., an.l l,.v,.hn,.,ss. that 1 h.va.n.- in.piro.I with tin- spirit of the nconv
Mn.l san- on,, tnm. na-,M.|r. Husv.-v..r. wla-n 1 ohserv...! that th.- othn'
K-.n.lolas ha.l sajh.,1 away. a,al n.y ;,un.h>li..r was pivparin- t., ^^o o^,.,•
iHianl. I st.)ppc.l. 11^ s
Th,. f.-.t.. was na..,Mnti,r,it. Th.-y k.-.p i, np th.. whol.. nij^ht h.nc;. an.l
I 11. UT (.n,)«y,.,l niysi.jf l.Htt.T than I ..li.l wl.ilo it lastc.l
What a tunny old eily this Qn....n .,f tla- Adriati,- is! .Van-.-w stn-ots
and all r;;^' '""• '"'r"- '•';"•^^^'^'' tl... .amann^. lamps of mitnnes:
■m. all pa ly snl,nM...p.,| ; n., dry lan.l visibh- anywhoiv/aml n.. side-
SNa Iks worth nu-ntuining ; if y.a, want t., ^r,. t., dnnvh. to tlu- thvatrc, or
,;!:'? "-'f ""■""*; >•"" "'"f call a o-aalola. it n.nst 1... a para.lisc f..r
< iip|.l(.s, for \<.rily a man has no nsc for his !,>,,« hm-
t. Jn '■ /' *'"•■ *"'.'"" "'" '''"'■•' '""'^'•^' "• lik<' an ovi.rfl.,w,.d Arkansas
mv,, hmiuse of ,ts ..nm.nth..ss wat..r , lavinj. tin- v.-ry .h,.,rst..ps .,f all
the honsc.s, in.l th.. ..Inst.-r ..f hoats n.a.h- fast tuulor th.- witu.AVs, or
sknnnung „. an.l .a., of the alleys an-l hy-ways, that I oonhl not ^et fi.I
of tho impression that there uas iu,thin^. the matte, her.- ?a,t a
sprmf( freshet an.l that the river wonl.l fall in a few weeks and leave a
inhhish ''' ' '"" ' "" *'"' ''""'"'' '""1 "'" streets full of mud and
In the «lare of the day, there is littl.. poetry ahont Venioe, but under
the diantable tnoon her stained palaces are white again, their hattere.l
moie with the f,n.andeur that was hers fiv,- hun.lred years ay.,. It is easy
i.en, 111 fancy, to people th.-se silent canals with plnmed gallants ami fa"ir
udies with Whylocks in gaberdine and sandals, venturing loans upon
he rich argosies of V,.netniu commerce -with Othellos an.l ])es,!emonas,
ith lagos an.l .R.xlengcs - with n,)ble Heets and victorious legions
loturrung from the wars. In the treacherous sunlight we see Venice
rtecayed, forlorn, poverty-stricken, an.l commerceless- forgotti-n and
utterly iiusignihcant. But in the m.u.nlight, her fourteen centtn-ies of
4*;
.••M
W'
I A
136
NOTAHI.K PLACE8.
m
((tin "
greatness fling tlieir gloi'ies ubnut Iicr. mulonce mor« is shetlie piinceliotit
among tlie nations of the eurtli.
" Tlu'ie is H slniious city in the sen :
Tilt' scii is in tin; lii'iiiii!, tin' iinrvdw stnds,
Ebliiiig iiiid tlowiiifj ; iiml tlif salt-^ia v.i'cd
<'liii/^s to till' iniirhlc ot'lhr jiuliut's.
Xcj truck (iluu'ii, no t'ootsti'iis to iiiid fro,
Lead to li(>r gitcs I The jiiitli lies o'er the sea,
liivisilile ; and tVoiii tlie land we went,
As to a tloatinj; city steerinj^ in,
And jjlidin;;' ii|i lier streets, as in a dream,
So sniootlily, silently- by many a dome,
Mosi|Ue-like, and many a stately ])ortieo.
The statues ranged along an azure sky ;
i)y many a pile, in more than l'',astein jMido,
Of old the rcsidenci' of merchant kings ;
Till' fronts of scjme, tho' time Inid shatter'd tlieni,
Still glowing with the richest lines of art,
As tho' the wealth within them hail run o'er."
Wliat wunld one naturally wish to see lirst in Venice ] The Bridge
of Sighs, of conrse-~and next the Clmrcli and tlie Great Siiuare of St.
Mai-k, the Bronze HorHOs, and the faiiions Lion of St. Mark.
We intended to go to the Bridge of Sigh.s, but lia])pened into the
Ducal Palace first— a })uildin<j: Avliich necessarily ^i<i•ur(^s lar/elv in
Venetian poetry and tradition. Tn the Senate Chamber of the ancient
Republic we wearied our eyes Mith staring at acres of historical paintings
by Tintoretto and Paul Veroneze, liut notliing struck us forcibly except
the one thing that strikes all strangers forcibly — a black scpiare in the
midst of a gallery of portraits. In one long row, around the great hall,
were i)ainted the portraits of the Doges of Venice (venerable fellows,
with flowing white beards, for of the three hundred Senators eligible to
ottice, the oldest was usually chosen Doge.) and each had its complimentary
inscription attached — till you came to tlie place that should have Marino
Faliero's jjicture in it, and that was blank and black- blank, except that
it bore a terse inscription, saying that the cons])irator had died for his
crime. It seemed cruel to keep that pitiless inscription still staring from
the walls after the unha])py wretch had been in his grave Ave hundred
years.
At the liead of the Giant's Staircase, where Marino Faliero was
beheaded, and where the Doges were crowned in ancient times, two
small slits in tlie stone walls were pointed out — two harmless, insigniflcant
oriflces that would never attract a stranger's attention — yet these
were the ten-ible Lions' Mouths 1 The lieads were gone (knocked oflf by
the French during their occupation of Venice,) but these were the
throats, down which went the anonynunis accusation, thrust in secretly
at dead of night by an enemy, that doomed many an innocent man
to walk the Bridge of Sighs and descend into the dungeon which
none entered and ho])ed to see the sun again. This was in tlie old days
THE PRISON.
137
when the Patnc.ns alone governed Venice-the comniou lierd l.u.l no
voteamlnovo.ee Ther. w.ro one thousand livo IhukIuhI Patricians
rom thes.. three hnmlre.l senators were c.hosen ; troni the Senato s a
1 oge ami a ( onno.l of Ten were selected, and by'secret Inllot the To
chose from their .nvn nnmber a Council of three. All these were
(government spies, then, an.l every spy was under surveillance himself!
men spok.,- m whispers m V.mice, and no man trusted his neighbor-not
always his own brother. No man knew who the ( \,uncil of Three were
--not even the Senate, not even the Doge ; the members of that dread
tribunal met a night m a chamber to themselves, masked, and robed
from head to foot m scarlet cloaks, and did not even know each other
unle,^ by voice. It was their duty to Judge heinous political crimes'
and from the.r sentence there was no appeal. A. nod to the execu-
tioner was sulhcient. The doomed man was marched down a hall and
out at a doorway into the covered Bridge of .Sighs, through it and into
he Dungeon and unto his death. At no time in Ids transit%vas he vi.sible
to any save his conductor. If a man had an enemy in those old davs, the
cleverest thing he could do was to slip a note for the Council of' Three
.ho^vn hin anyhow because he was a deep fiscal, since his plots were
unsolvable Masked judges aii<l m:,sked executioners, witlAinlimited
power, and no apj.enl from tlam- judgments in that hanl, cruel age, were
not likely to be lenient with men they suspected yet could not convict.
We walked through tbe hall of the Council of Ten, and pres'^itlv
entered the infernal den of the Council of Three I'los^itly
. The tabl.. around which they had sat was there still, and likewise the
stations where the n.asked inquisitors and executioners formerly stood
frozen, upright and silent, till they receive] .. bloody order, and then
without a wordinoved o«; like the inexorable machines th;v were, tj
carry it out. The frescoes ou the walls were sfartin<dv suited to the
Ijace In all the other saloons, the halls, the great^iit^d^lLws S
the ].akce, the M-alls and cedings were bright vvith gilding, rich with
elaborate carving, and respleiulent with gallant pictures of Venetian
:^'^';Z^':^'''y^^\;'^''^^^^^^\<^^-\^>^ in foreign courts, and hallowed
ith portraits of the VirgMi, the Saviour of men, and the holy saints
that preached the lospel of Peace iii.on earth-but here, iu dismal
contrast, were none but pictures of death and dreadful sufferii,.. !— not
meared wih blood, gashed with wounds, and distorte.l with the agonies
that had taken away its life ? "
From the palace to the gloomy prison is but a step-one might almost
S"'r«- 1 "'"™'^ "'"'1' *^"* intervenes. The ponderous stone
Bridge of Sighs crosses it at the Becond story-a bridge that is a covered
tunnel— you can not be seen when ynn walk in it.' It is i)ai-titioned
lengthAvise, and through one comi.artment walked such as bore li-lit
.sentences in ancient times, and through the other marched sadly the
fll! I'
I
138
IMF'I.EMKNTS OK TOKTURK.
\vn;tche.s whom tW- Thre.i luul docK.ed to lingering niisery mul uttei-
oblivion in the clun,a;('oii.s, or to sudden and mysterious deiith. Down
below the level of the water, by the light of snioking torches, we were
shown the dainj), thick-walled cells where many a proud pati-ician's life
was oaten away by the long-drawn miseries of solitaiT imprisonment—
without light, air, books ; naked, unshaven, uncombed, covered with
vermin ; his useless tongue forgetting its otHcc, with nont." to sjieak to •
the days and nights of his life no longer markcul. but merged into one
eternal eventless night ; far away from all cheerful sounds, buried in the
silence of a tomb ; forgotten by his helpless friends, and his fatci a dark
mystery to them forever ; losing his own memory at hist, and knowing
no more who he was or how he came there ; devouring the loaf of bread
and drinking the water that was thrust into the cell by unseen hands.
and troubling his woni spirit no moi-e with hopes and fears and (loul)ts
and longings to be free ; ceasing to scratch vain prayers and complainiiK's
on walh where none, not even himself, could see 'them, and resi<mino'
lumself to hopeless apathy, driveling childishness, lunacy ! Many and
many a sorrowful story like this these stonv walls could tell if they could
l)ut speak.
In a little nari-ow corridor, near by, they showed iis where many a
prisoner, after lying in the dungeons until he was forgotten by all sa\e
Ins persecutors, was brought by masked executioners and garroted, or
sewed up in a sack, passed through a little window to a l)oat, at dead of
night, and taken to some remote sjiot and drowned.
They used to show to visitors the instruments of torture wherewith
the Three were wont to worm secrets out of the- accused—villainous
machines for crushing thumbs ; the stocks where a jn-Lsoner sat immovable
while water fell drop by drop upon his head till the torture was more
than humanity could bear ; and a devilish contrivance of steel, which
inclosed a ]n-isoner's head like a shell, and crushed it slowly by means of
a screw. It bore the stains of blood that had trickled througli its joints
long ago, and on one side it had a projection whereon the torturer rested
his elbow comfortably and bent dowii his (;ar to catch the moanings of
the sufferer jierishing within.
Of coui-se we went to see the venerable relic of the ancient glory of
Venice, with its pavements worn and broken by the ])assing feet of a
thousand years of plebeians and jiatricans— The Cathedral of'St. Mark.
It IS built entirely of precious marbles, brought from the Orient— nothing
in its composition is domestic. Its hoary traditions make it an object o1"
absorbing interest to even tlie most careless stranger, and thus far 'it had
interest for me ; but no further. I could not go" into ecstacies over its
coarse inosaics, its unlovely Byzantine architecture, or its tive hundred
curious interior columns from as many distant (piarries. Every thing
was worn out— every block of stone was smooth and almost sliapeless
with the polishing hands and sliouldei-s of loungers who devoutly idled
here in by-gone centuries and have died assd liave gone to the deV uu.
simply died, 1 mean.
A TKEASlHr. .SIXVBED.
139
luKler tl.eM,ltar i-cjh.sc ti.e nsl.Hs uf St. Mark nud .AJattlunv J,„k..
=u.d Join, ou, for all I know. Venice reveres the.se relies al-.'.v a]
n f 'fv V tl "' ^^;"-^T>; '--'-<l >'-- «t. Mar): has ....en I,;, jl tn
n™l.H^oref^;'"l "■''''' •^'*>- -^"^ '^ ^'" "-"-' after hinl or s,.
nanud as to lefer to hnn m some way so named, or some .anehase ii.n,ed
ni some way to scrape a sort of hurrahin- aciuaintanee Jith Id , Th-
.seems to ])e the idea. To he on .oo<l tenns iith St. Mais.', to
l.e very sunnmt of Venetian and.ition. They sav St. Ma let V,,;.
.on and n.^:ed to travel with hinr- and every Where that St. Marl \ v^
^.e ion was snre to p, It was his protector. Jus ft-iend. his ] h,.a rh "
And so the A\ ,no.ed Lion of St Mark, with the open J il.le n de lis
jmw, ,s a faronte emble.n in the grand old city. It lasts its sha o r n
ie most ancient pil ar in Venice, in the Grand S<,nare of St. A[ T ,;
he throngs o free crtzons l,.4ow, and ha.s so .lone Lr manv a l.mg cen
ihe wmgedhon is fonn.l every where- ^-an.l .loubtless' h.-re. ^l • . ] V".
winged hon is, no harm can come.
St. Mark .lied at Alexandria, in Egvpt. H.. was martviv,! 1 thinl-
ot thecity of Ven.c.v- say tour hundred and iiftv v.-ars after ( 'hrist -1
(t..r V,enice ,s much younger than any other Italian citv,) a r ..s,
<lmimod that an angel told him that until the remains of St.' Ma k ' v.', v
rind'" ;"n/''rf^ could never rise to high distincti.m an..;, ^
he nations ; that the body mn.st be captun.,1, brought t.. the citv an.l a
m^^ent c uu-oh built over i^ ; an.l that if ever the Ven..tian;alW^
he baint to be rcm.>ye.l from his new resting-place, in that dav N'enice
beam, and forthwith Venice .set about procuring the crpse of St Mark
ne expchtion after another trie.l and failed, but the poject was never
abandoned durmg four hundred years. At last it \vas secure, b-
•strati^gem, m the year eight hundred and son.ething. Tlie comnuuuh'.r
.^^ a \e.n.jtian expedition disguised him.s.-lf, st..le tJ... bone.s, ! 1
them, and packed them in vessels tilbnl with lar.l. The -elili. n f
Mahoinetc.us^xtsd.n-ot.est.> abhor anything that is in the na^. ,.!
i7the c V fl /''^<^'"f ^'"^ -.'^« «t<H>peci by the ..tHcers at the gates
the city, they only glance.l ..nc. into his precious baskets, then tnr.ied
t leTiX" f t '" "'" ^' '";'■ r' ''' '''"^ «"■ The bon.; were bur
i the vaults ot the gran.l cathe,lral, which had b..eii waitin- lo„., \ears
:^u"d" xT; "Jr ''T 'Y- "^t^^- '"'"^ tl><-«-atiiessof Velifc.: w :
. -cu.el. And to tins .lay there be tho.se in Venice who belie^■.■ that if
t ose Ju>ly ashe^s were stolen away, the ancient city would vanish like a
'I'vam, ami its foundations be buried f..rev,.r in th,'^ unren.emberin se'
*i».
V H .\ V T E Ji XXIII.
ri^lTPi Venetian giniduln is as free iind j^racefiil, in its !,'!i(liiig niovenienl,
X ii« it. sei'pent. Tt is twenty (ir tliivtv foot long, iind is iiiirrov,- and
tleo}), like a canoe ; its shnrp \)o\v und sti>rn sweep u])ward fi-om tin;
water like the liorns of a ci-eseent -witli the a))ni])tness of the curve
slightly modified.
The how is orniunented with a steel conih witli ji hattle-ax attachment,
which threatens to cut passing boats in two occasionally, but never does.
The gondola is jjainted black becatise in the zenith of Venetian magniti-
cenctt the gondolas bec«ame too gorgeous altogether, and the Senate decreed
that all such display nnist cease, and a solemn, unembellished black Ik;
substituted. If the truth were known, it would doubtless apjiear that
rich plebeians grew too prominent in their aifectation of pt'.trician show
on the Ciraiul ('anal, and i-eijuired a wliolesouK^ snubbing. Reverence for
the lialloM-ed Past and its traditions keeps the dismal fashion in fon;o
now that the compulsion exists no longer. So let it remain. It is the
color of mourning. Venice mor.rns. The stern of the boat is decked
over and the gondolier stands there. He \ises a single oar — a long blade, of
course, for he stands nearly erect. A wooden peg, a foot and a htdf higli,
Avith two slight crooks or curves in one side of it and one in the other,
projects above tJie starboard gunwale. Against that i)eg tlie gondolier
takes a purchase with his oar, ohanging it at intervals to the other
sifle of tlie peg or drop})ing it into another of the crooks, as
the steering of the craft may demand — and how in the world
he can buck and till, shoot straight ahead, or flirt sudd(uily arou)id a
corner, and make tlie oar stay in those insignificant notches, is a 2)robleni
to me and a never diminishing matter of interest. I am" afraid I study
the gondoli(>r's marvelous skill more than I do the sculptured palaces wo
glide among. He cuts a corner so closely, now and then, or missen
another gondola by such an imperceptible hair-breadth that I feel myself
" scrooching," as the children say, just as one does when a buggy wheel
grazes his elbow. But he makes all the calculations with the nicest pre-
cision, and goes darting in and out among a Broadway confusion of busy
craft with the easy confidence of the educated hackman. He never
nrakes a mistake.
Sometimes we go flying down the great csuials at such a gait that we
can get only the merest glimpses into front doors, and again, in obscui-e
GONDOLIZINfi.
UI
alleys in the suburbs, wo i.ut on a solemnity suited to tlie silence tho
mildew, the stagnant waters, tbo clia.gin. weeds, the deserted houses' ,uk1
the general hfclessnes of the ,dace, and nu.v. to the spirit of grave mSl
„o^;h,m;!f f' '? l»i^t'^;;-l'H' rascal f\,r all he wears no satin harness,
« l.luued bonnet no sdken t.ghts. iris attitude is stately; he is'
lithe and supple ; al his n.oveu.ents are full of grace. When' 1 is Ion.-
canoe, and his fine hgure, towering fro.u its high perch on the stern a v
ShS"; r '"'""^ '^'' ^^"^' "''^'^' '^ I-'t-- tl-at is verv n^ ' '.u d
striking to a foreign eye.
We sit in the cusldoiud carriage-bo.ly of a cal)i.., with the curtains
drawn, and smoke, or read, or look out ui^on the passh.g boa le
Ws the bridges, the people, and enjoy oiLlves nLli n^re tll^;;! we
could 111 '^ buggy joltn.g ovvr our cobble-stone pavements at home This
IS tho gentlest, pleasantest locouiotion we luvve evor known
_But It seems queer--eyer so ,iueer-to see a boat doing duty as a
private carnage. We see business men come to the front door, step to
u gondola instead of a street car, and go off down towu to the'coulithlg-
We see visiting young ladies stand on she stoop, and laugh, and kiss
good-bye, andfhrt their fans and say "Come sion -now "c/;. you've
beenjustasui.anas ever you can be- -mother's dying to see you-and
we ve moved into the new house, such a fove of a phice !- so onve
lent to the post-office and the church, and Youn!- Men's cSi in
Association; and we do have such fishing, and '^u^e:riy: on
dlm^? --;;"-y-;-^ches in the back yard.-()h, you .^.sf, cL.I^-no
distance at all, and if you go down through by St. Mark's and the
fcridge of S.gh.s, and cut through the alley an.l come up by the church
of Santa Maria dei Frari, and into the Grand Caual, th^re isn't a i of
current-- now do come, Sally Maria-by bye!" and then the 1 tk
muibug trips down the steps, jumps into the^ gondola, s^" un ei }^r
Lreath, "disagreeable old thing, I hope she "..o^'^'" gw skimu i .
•says. Well, ^/*«.< infliction s over, anv way,-but I suppose I've -ot to
go aiid see ]ier-tii.some stuck-up t.iug I " Human mLre appeal ^
h^^ justthe .same all over the world. We see the diliident yo . n- man
n.dd of moustache affluent of hair, indigent of brain, elegant of cost luc'
driv^ up to ..,. fat^^er's niansion, tell his hackm.n to l.dl out a a '
.start feartully up the steps and meet the "old gentleman" right on the
tii-eshold !-diear ium ask what street the new British Bank i s n a if
nZd tt. ' ^'"^^'"^-^'.l'^'":*^ "\l^i« boots !-.see him come sneaking
around he corner again, directly, with a crack of the curtain o„en
^^ "^'[''ffrf:' fT'^'^^'S gondola, and out scanipeiX^
Nusan \vjth a flock of httle Italian endearments flutt^nin.^ from her lin •
-d ^goes to drive with him in the watery avenues d;^^''::;.';:^^;:
S\
I
1st 1
m
u '
Mi
N*2
<JAIETIES BY GASLIGHT.
We seo the liuUes go out s]ioi»j)ing, in the most natural way, and flit
from street to street and from store to store, just in the good old fashion,
ox(;e])t that they leave the gondola, instead of a pri^■ate carriage, waiting
at the curbstone a couple of hours for them, — waiting while they make
the nice young clerks pull down tons and tons of silks and velvets and
moire antiques and those things; and then they buy a \mi[)ov of pins and
go paddling away to conf(>r the rest of their disastrous custom on some,
other lirm. And they always have their purchases sent home just in
the good old way. Human nature is rcry much the same all over the
world : and it is ho like my dear native home to see a Venetian lady go
into a store and buy ten cents' worth of blue ribbon and have it sent
home in a scow. Ah, it is those little touclu's of nature that nit)ve one
to tears in these far-otJ' foreign lands.
W^e see little girls and boys go out in their gondolas with their nurses,
for an airing. We see staid families, with i)rayer-book and beads, enter
the gondola dressed in their Sunday best, and float away to church.
.\nd at midnight Ave sw the theatre break up and discharge itn swarm
of hilarious youth and beauty; Ave hear the cries of the hackraen-gondo-
liers, and behold the struggling crowd jinnp aboard, and the black
umltitude of boats go skimming doAvn the moonlit avenues; Ave see them
separate here and there, and disajipear up divergent streets ; Ave hear the.
faint sounds of laughter and of shouted farcAvells floating up out of the
distance ; and then, the strange pageant being gone, we have lonely
stretches of glittering Avater— of stately buildings -of blotting shadoA\"s
-of AA-eird stone faces creeping into the moonlight- of deserted brid'^es
-of motionless boats at anchor. And over all broods that mysterious
stillness, that stealthy quiet, that beflts so Avell this old dreaming Venice.
We have been {tretty nuich evervAvhere in our gondola. We have,
bought beads and photographs in the stores, and Avax matches in
the Great Square of St. Mark. The last remark suggests a digression.
h]v(.n-y body goes to this vast square in the eA^ening. Tlie military bands
jtlay in the centre of it and countless couples of ladies and gentlemen
promenade u}) and doAvn on either side, and platoons r^ them are con-
istvintly drifting aAvay toAA-ard the old Cathedral, and by the A-enerablo
column Avith the Winged Lion of St. Mark on its top, and out to Avhere
the boats lie moored ; and other platoons .-n'e as constantly arriving
from the gondolas aiul joining the great throng. Between the jn-o-
Tuenaders and the side-Avalks are seated hundreds and hundreds of
people at small tables, smoking and taking yrnnita (a first cousin
to ice-cream); on the side-Avalks are more enqiloying thomseh-es m
the same Avay. The shops in the flrst floor of the tall roAvs of
buildings that Avall in three sides of the square are brilliantly lighted,
the air is lilled Avith nuisic aTul merry voices, and altogether the scene is
as bright aiul spirited and full of cheerfulness as any man could desiir.
We enjoy it thoroughly. Very many of the young Avomen ai-e excieed-
i.igly jiretty and^ dress Avith rare good taste. We are gradually and
laboi-iously learning the ill manners of staring them tinflinchingly in the
AMERICAN SNOnS ABllOAL.
V.\
tace---uot because suc-hcumluot is a.irree,,l,lot.. us. Inu l.o,.,ui,s,. it is tJie
ous cm of the country and tJ.ey say the j^irls like it. We wish to I'm
« thecuriouH outhmdish ^vays of all th. .HHerent eountries. s tlm we
ean <'show otl ' and ustonisli people when we ^..t hon.e. We w s5, to
excite the envy of o„r „„trave]ed friends with our stran,.- foreign ft i .„"
wluch ,ve ean t sha]<^ ofK All our passengers are ,.,aviu^ strict .Uh^^
to t ns tlnn. with the end in view wind. I ]>ave nlendoned. T e^; !
reader wzll never, never know what a eonsunnnate ass he can h^nn
untd he goes abroad. I speak now. .,f ..ourse. in the suppo tiJ, It
the gentle reader has not been abroad, and therefo-e is . ,t a e dy ■
eonsunnnate ass. If the eas.. be otherwise. [ b„. hi,, ,,,rdon 'u ex L,'
to h„n the cordial han.l <.f fellowship and call hin b ei \^^
«lst!?lt;:,r'^^ -" "^^ -'-'"^ '-" "-'-^ -'- ' ^'"'"'-
On this subject let n.e remark that there are An.ericans abroad in
toigot It ni 1 lance 1 hey can not even write their address in En.disJi
in a hotel register. I ai,pend these evidences, which I copie,! J W^^^^^^
from the register of a hotel in a cei-tain Ftalian city :
".lolni r. Whitcoinl), A'lals CnU
'MVm. L. Ain.swoith, tmi-aillrur (lie iiKMUt tiavl
"<.eor;Cc 1'. MovUnx rl tils, <r ..i,„rrl,,,„'
'' '/"ni ^' ^n "n V"' '■ '''"'" """'■'' ■'^"" ''•■ ""^f"". ■ /""•'•/■/,„•.
/.-. i !S::Lt^^^> '""' ''■ """■ "'■■ '■'' ' "' '^-,U.., ,,,,, ,,,,,,,.
J love this sort of people. A huly passenger of ours tdls of a fellow
citizen of hers vvho spent eight weeks in Paris and then retnrm.lh e
.ind addressed his dearest ohl bosom friend Herbert, as M ' <£ b ^ '
FI.> apologiml, though, and said, " Pon i„v soul it is aogravatitv i .t I
eant help ,t-I have got so used to .spV-akin- nothim b t U. ,
.ny dear Erbare-,lam,ne there it .oes ".i .t T t'
Fi-ench pi.nunoiatioii that I cant gS^H,^S' it^f is^^Sll.!;
Hit, I sii]>iM).sf) Kt„is luils.
annoying, I assure vou.
Thi.v
ento'taining
idiot.
be^mng foreign postmarks protruding from Ids breast pocket ^'1?
ated a moustaclie and imperial, and did what else ne oiv-d to s„ .-es to
the beholder his pet fancy that he resembled Louis Xanolem^ "'?! •
a spint of- tJiank^Uness which is entnvly unaccr::;:,,^^: ^d;:;:^! ^'th^
lnn.foun<lation th,>rf^ was for it, he praised Jiis Maker that he was ^/h^
va , and went on eiyoying his little life ,just the same as f he nnllv
.#;
144
SKKIN'(» TUK MIOHTS.
iiil!!.
Thuik of uiir AVliiti.uiiifw, uiul our Aiiiswoitliis mid our VVillitiuises
writing flieiiisclveis down in diia)>idat(<d Krenrli in fon>i<,'n liott^l re>,'i.stei's :
Wi' liuigh at EngliKlnncn, wlien ue arc at ]K)nic, lop sti"king so sturdily
to tlit'ir national ways and customs, Imt wo look hat'k upon it fnjiu abroad
very forgivingly. It is not pleasant to stc ;in Anioricau tlii'usting his
luitionality forward vhtnisiir/i/ in a foreign land, hut Oh, it is pitiahlo to
see hiui niaking of liinisc'.f ;i thing that is neither iiialo iior female,
neither tish, tiosh, nor fowl a }ioor, niiserahh-, hei-maphrodito Frenehnian.
Among a. long list of ehurchis. art galleries, and sueh things, visible l)y
us in Venice, T shall nientit)n oidy one — tlie church of Hanta Maria dei
Frari. It is about tive hundred years ohi, I believe, an<l stands on
twelve hundred thousand piles. In it lie tlie IkkIv of Canova and the
heart of Titian, under magnificent nioiuiments. Titian died at the age
of almost (me hundred years. A plague that, swept away fifty thousand
lives was raging at the time, and there is notable evidence of tlie nnerance
in which the great jminter was held, in the fact that to him alone the
state permitted a jjublic funeral in all that season of terror and death.
In tljis church, also, is a mo,innnent to the doge Foscari, whose namt;
a once resident of Venice, Lord Dyron, has made permanently famous.
The monument to the doge Giovanni Pesa I'o, in tins cJiurch, is a curiosity
in the way of mortuary adornment. It is eighty feet high and is fronted
like some fantastic pagm temple. Against it stood four collos-sal Nulnans.
as black as night, dressetl in wliite marble garments. The black legs ar(>
bare, aud througli rents in sleeves and biveehes, the skin, of shiny black
marble, shows. The artist was as ingenious as liis funeral desij.^is were
absurd. Thcsre arc two bi-oni;o skeletons bearing scrolls, and two great
dragons uphold tlie sarcophagas. On high, anud all this grotesquoness.
sits the dej)arted doge.
In the conventual i)uildings attached to this church are the state
archives of Venice. Wo did not see them, but they are .said to mimbei-
millions of documents. -'They ace the records of centuries of the most
watchful, observant and suspicious government that ever existed in
which every thing was written down and nothing spoken out." They fill
nearly three hundred rooms. Amo:ig them are manuscripts from tlie
archives of nearly two thousand families, monasteries and convents. The
secret history of Venice for a thousand years is here — its })lots, its hidden
trials, its assasinations, its commissions of hireling sj)ies and masked
brayoes— food ready to hand, for a world of dark and niysterious romanc(!s.
Yes, I think we liave seen all of Venice. We have' seen, in these old
churches, a profusion of costly and ehdiox-ate sepulchre ornamentation
such^ as ^ we never dreamt (jf before. W(^ have stood in the dim
religion.'! light of these hoary aanctua.ies, in the midst of long raidcs of
dusty monuments and efligies of the great dead of Venice, until wo seemed
drifting back, back, back, into tl)e solemn past, and looking ujwn the
scenes and mingling Avith the peoples of a remote antiquity.' We have
been in a half-waking sort of dream all the time. I did not know liow
else to describe the feeling. A part of our being has i-emained still in the
A COXFESSION.
145
uiueteentl. century xvhilo another purt of it has seemed ia some umiccoimt-
able way walking among the phanton.s of tlie tenth. "'I'^ccoimt
We hav see^i fanions piotums until our eyes arc weary with iookint?
at them and refn.e to find interest in then, any longo^r. An, wS
wonder wJien there are twelve hundred pictures l.y Palma theYou -t
m Venu-o and fifteen Inuulred l,y Tintorettof And ehoM thS e
are litxans^ an.l the works of other artists in proportio.i We have
seen Titiaus ooe, rated (,'ain and Abel, his David and Goliah hh
Ab,.ah,un's Sacr,hce. We have seen Tintoretto's n.onster pic un^ wh^^^
ho rt'k^ and Idonotknuu- how n.any felt hi,d, an
tliouglit It a very e.„nn,odious j.ieture. W., have seen picUires vi
n.ar >.-s enough ajui saints ..nough, to regenerate the work . . „ ofat
not to confess .t, l>ut still, since one has no opportunity in An.ennt
o acpiire a crujeal ,,udo„.ent m art, and since T con J not ho u'
become educated m .t u, J^urone in a few short we(,ks, 1 mav t Ztl,
■dr Thev n' 1 , ' T: "-T "^ '•"•^" """■*>''''^ I J'^^<' ^^-^^ them
all. Ihej al have a niark<>.l tauuly r,.send.lance to each other thev
.h-ossahke, .n coarse ;nunkish robes ami sandals, they are all W
oxception the> are gazing heavenward with countenances which tt,e
ft rT .X. '•''"'" T '"'^ the Williau.ses, et jUs, inform rue a'e
f.dl of expression. To nu- th.-re is nothing tangible about tho.se
|mag.mny portraits nothing that I can grasp aaul take a livin" nt^ e t
m.f great Tkuu. had only been gifted witl/ prophecy, and had . k ^
^ imul^r, and had gone over to England and painted a poiira t of
JieMonddown,, the latest generations w.mld have forgiven him fh^
lost martyr m the rescued seer. I think posterity could liave s ami
erne n,ore martyr for the sake of a great liistoricd picture ^T^^
tZ S .!;rr ' >''" ^-^ r^"'' ■"" ^ '°^'"»''"« ^^^'^--^ in chains
tiom the dIsco^ery of a Avorld, tor instance. The old masters did „a.int
rwi^'^'^'r ' ''""'"' ^''^^''^'^ -'"'''^ ^^'''' '''' '^'^^ "<-'* tii-e of looking at,
I ot^Mthstandni^g representatums of the formal introduction of detun-t
doges to the A^irgni Mai^ in regions beyond the clouds clashed r. t h .
harshly witJi the proprieties, it seemed to us.
But humble i« we are, and unpretending, in the matter of art, our
We vo . 'T «t.nven hard to learn. We have had sonu, success^
We kue mastered some things, possibly of triiiing import in the eves of
t le learned, but to us they give pleasure, and we take a.s nmch pride m
our little acvpurements as do othei-s Avho have learned far more, and
e love to display them full as well. When we see a monk going ^bout
Hithahon andlooknig tran.pully up to heaven, we know thatthat is
^t. .Uark. When we see a monk with a book and pen, lookincr tranquiliv
M^ofJ^r, '■^'^,'"■''7^' "" *^""^ "*■'' ^''•"■''' ^^'" k'"^^^ thatthat'is Ht.
.VlattheAv. When I wee a monk sitting ou a rock, looking tranquilly u^^
'rff^^
5.'..'
w>
KXPLAXATION.
! (
ti) li(M\('n, witli ii liuiiiiui .skull litssiilo li.'m, and witlioiit, orlier hii;»gnge,
■we know tliiittliat is St. Jt-iuiiu. Beeiitiiio we know tliaL lu^ always wtmt
flyiii,!f li<{lit ill tlit^ matter of hagij;a;,'o. VVlicn \\a' sw n party looking
tranijuiliy np to 1,,'aven, uncoii.scioiis that liis Ixxly is .sliot through and
through witli arrows, we knt)w that that is St. Scliastian. Wlien we .sot^
other monks loul.'.ng trantpiilly up to heaven, Itut having no trade-mai'k,
we always. ask who tho.se parties aic. We do this iieoau.se \v«! huuihly
wish to learn. V/e liave seen thirteen thousand St. Jeromes, and twenty
two tliousand St. [Vtarks, nn<l sixteen tlionsand St. ^rattlu-ws. and .si.xt'v
tliou.saud St.S( 'lastians, and fouvnullions of as.sorted nionk.-^. undesignated,
and we feel encouraged to lielieve that when \\v ha^c set.ni some more of
tlies.' vai'i.nis pietures, and ha<l a l;ivger experience, we siiiill Itegin to
tii.ke an ah.sorhing interest in tln'in like ou'- eultivared eountrymtu from
Antrri'jHc
Now it (hies give me real pain to speak in this almost e.nappreeiative
Way of the old mastei's and their martyrs, hecanse good friend.-, of mine
in the .sliip — friends who do thoi'oughly and conscientiously appi'eciatf^
tlieni and are in every way tomjieteiit to d'.seiiminate lietwcien good
pictures and ir.ftu-ior ones — have urged nu^ for my own .sake not to make
jnii)lic the fact that I lack this aj)j)reciation and this eiitical di.scrimi-
uation myself. 1 lielieve that what 1 have wi'itten and may still write
altout pictures will give them j'ain, and I am hoiiesiiy sorry for it. 1
even pi'omised that I would hide my uncouth sentinieats in my own
breast. But alas I I never could keej) a promi. ■. T (\) nut l>Ianie
myself for this vveakne.ss, because the fault must IW- in my phy.sica!
organization. It is likely that sucli a very liljeraj ana ai lit of s])ace was
given to the organ which enables mc* to iiKi/>:e promises, that the org! n
wLicli should enable me to keep them was crowdtil out. But I grieve
not. I like no half-way tliingr.. I had rather have one fa.culty nobly
developed than two faculti(!s of mere ordinary cajiacity. I certainly
iiieant to keep that promise, but I find I can not do it. It is in)i)ossible
to travel through Italy without si)eaking of pictui'es. and can I see them
through others' eyes I
If I did not so delight in the gi'und pictures that are sprer.d before me
ev,»rv day of my life by that monarch of all the old masters. Nature, ]
should come to believe, sometimes, that I had in me Jio a])preciation
of the beautiful, whatsoever.
It seems to me that wherever I glory to think that for once I have
discovered an ancient painting that is beautiful and worthy of all jiraise,
the pleasure it gives me is an infallible proof that it is not a beautiful
picture and not in any wise worthy of commendation. This very thing
h.Ks occurred more times than I can mention, in Venice. In every single
instance the guide has crushed out my swelling enthusiasm with the
remark :
" It is nothing — it is of the Benaissance."
I did not know what in tlie mischief the Renaissance was, and so always
I Lad to simply say,
" Ah ! so it is — I liad not ob.served it befoi-e."
CONTUAH.WI) (ilH)K.
U7
T coul.l not bear to ho i^morunt iK-foiv a eultivatcl ue«ro, tlio oflkpriny
H South (!urolma slav.. J5„t it ovcunvd too ufton for even n.v Lfe
of ^.„„.,
oomplaceney, did that exas|HTatini^ "" Vt ' i.rnoti'ii'n"
lenaismtiri.: I said at hist :
It iH of the
" 117(0 is this Henaissa.icc >. WJien- did he .on.e from / Wh„ ...ve
him i-einnssiou to cmm the Repuhlic with his execiabh^ .hiuhs V "
We learned, the„ that Renaissance was not a man; thnt remtismmr
was a term use. 1 to signify what was at hest hut an imperfect rejuvenation
of art. Ihe guide said that alter Titian's time and tl,e tin.e of the other
Kreat names we had grown so familiar with, hi;,d. art declined; then it
|.artmlly rose again-an inferior sort of painters sprang «n, and these
«hahhy pu^hires were the work of their hands. TheA I said in mv lu^a.
thatl _ w she! to goodness high art ha<l declined live hundird y,.ars
sooner. Ihe ].enai.s..ance pictures suit me very well, though sooth to
say Its schoo were too much given to painting real men ami di.l not
indulge enough in martyrs.
The guide r have .-poken of is the only one we have had yet who knew
any thing. He was horn ni ><uuth Carolina, of slave parents. Thev
camo to Venice while ho was an infant. He has grown up here. He is
well educated. He reads, writes, an.l sp.eaks English, Italian, Spanish,
and Irench, with pei-fect facility ; is a worshipper of art and tl oroucdd;
conversant with it ; knows the history of Venici hy heart and never tiZ
of talking of Jier illustrious career. He dresses hetter than any of us, I
think, and is daintily polite. Negroes are deeme.l as good as white
people, m Venice, and so this man feels no desire to go back to his native
ianU. His judgment IS con ect.
1 have had ;.nother shave. I was writing in our front room this
alternoou and trying hard to keej. my attention on my work and refrain
iron, looking out upon the canal. I was resisting the soft influences of
the climate as well as I could, and endeavoring to overcome the desire to
he nidolent am. hajipy. The boys sent for' a barber. They asked me if
I would l)e shaved. I reminded them of my torture in Genoa, Milan
Como ; of my declaration that I would suffer no more on Italian soil I
said " Not any for me, if you please."
I wrote on. The bar])er began on the doctor. I lieard him say •
Dan, this is the easiest shave I have had since we left the shir) "
He .said again, presently, : ' '
"Why Dan, a man could go to sleep with this man slmvintr liim "
Dan took tlie chair. Then he said : '^
" Why this is Titian. This is one of the old masters."
I wrote on. Directly Dan said :
him' "^^^^"'^' ^^ ^^ ^'''^^''^ ^nxxny. The ship's barber isn't any thing to
My^rougli beard w^t.s tlistrcssing me beyond m£a.siue. The barber was
roiling up his aj)paratus. The temptation was too strong. I said •
" Hold on, i)Iease. Hhave me also."
iM\
us
MOMS*; A(iAtN.
I Hilt tluwii ill till' olmir and closed my ey«M. The liiirhur SDiipcd my
fiici', iiiid tlifii took liis nizoi- and i,'avt' iiic a rakci tliiit well ni;;'li tlintw mt-
into (■onviilsions, I jnaipcd out of tlir ('hail' ; Dan ami tlat tloctor wurc
Ijotli wi]iini,' bloo<l oH'tlicir fact's and lan,!,'liiii>,'.
I said it was a mean, disj^iaccfnl tVaiid.
TImy said tliat tlio misery of tliis shave liad ^nnie so far Imyond any
thin,'^ they h'ld ever e.\|ierieii('ed Itefo!', , iliat they could not lieai'tlic* iden
of hjsin;,' such a eliiuice of heariin,' a cordial ojiiiiion fmni me on the
Kuhject.
It was sliamefnl. Iiut there was no iielp for it. The skinninj^ was he;fiin
and had to bo linishiid. Tiie tears llowed with every rake, and so did the
fervent execrations. Tim hai'her jjrew confused, and lirouijht Idood every
time, r tliink tlie hoys enjoyed it better than any thiiv.? they Iiavc seen
or lieard since they h^ft home.
We liave seen the (.'ampanih-, and Hyron's house and IJallii's the
f.;eo,L,'rajiher, and tlie pahiees of all the ancient dukes iiiid do^'e's of Venice,
and we iiave seen their elleminato descendants airiiij,' their nobility in
fashionable Froncli attire in tlie ( irand S((uare of 8t. Mark, and eating
ices and drinkina; chea|» wines, instead of wearlnj^ j;allant coats of mail
and destroyin/j; ihjets and aI•lni(^s as their j^reat ancestors did in the days
of Venetian glory. Wo have seen no bravoos with poisoned stil(»ttoes,
no masks, no wild carnival ; but we Invve seen the a'ncient pride of
Venice, the grim ib'onze Horses that tigure in a thousand legends.
Venice may well cherish them, for they are the only hoi-ses she everliad.
It is .said there are hundreils of peo})le in this curitais city who never liave
seen a living lior.se in their lives. It is entirely true, no doubt.
And so, having satisfied ourselves, Wf depart to-mm-row. .md leave the
venerable Queen of the Republics to ^ '.mmou lier vanished ships, and
marshal her shadowy armies, and knoM auMin in dreams the pride of her
■old lenown.
■f '!
It,
'!f;.!
C H A V T i: K X X I \'
SOMK ()f tli(^ (junker City's |.a,sHeiijr(Ts liad iinivcil in Vt'iiiw from
Switzcrlaiid and otlu-i' liiiids Ixfoiv w,. left tluMc, mid otlicrs were
I'xpwU'd fvfiy day. We la-unl of u„ cahiialtit's aiiioii',' tlinii, and \u>
Hit'kneHH.
W<^ wore a littl.^ fatiyiu^d with .si,-,'lit scfiii;,', and so \vi- lattlcl tlii()M;,di
a Kuod deal of ('oniitry \>y rail without carin;,' to stop. I took few notes.
1 find no mention of nolo;,'na in my memoianthim huok, except that we
umved there in /n'ood season. l)iit saw none of the sausa-^'es fof wliieli the
plaee is so Justly eeleltrated.
Pistoia \vok(i hut a passing interest.
l''lorence pleased us for a whih\ ] tliink we appreeiated the jj^reat
figure of David in the grand s(inare. mu ! *i,o sculptured group they'" call
the J{ape of the Sal)iu.)s. We ' red tlirough the endless collections
ot paintings and statues t.f th.^ I'lui and Utizzi galleries, of course. 1
makr that stat(!nieiit in self-drfense ; there let it stoji. 1 could not rest
nudei- the imputation that I visited Klorenc(^ and did not traverse its
weary miles uf picture gaUeries. We tried indolently to recollect soine-
thuig about the (Jue'.iis nud (Jhil.dines and other historical cut-throats
whose (piarrels and assa: .iuations make up so large a share of Florentine
Instory, hut the suhject was not attractive. We had been r()bl)ed of all
the fine mountain scenery on our little journey by a systi>m of lail-
roading that had three miles of tuuiiel to a hundred yards of
daylight, and we were not inclined to be sociable with Florence.
We had seen the spot, outside the city somewhere, where these people
had allowed the l)oues of Galileo to rest in nncor.secrated ground for >in
age, because his great discovery that the world turned round was re-
garded as a damning heresy by the church; and we know that long aftei-
the world had accepted his theory, and raised his name high in tiie list
of Its great men, they had still let him rot tliere. That we had lived to
«ee liis dust in honored Hei)ulture in the church of St. (^roce we owed to
a Hociety of literati, and not to Florence or her rulers. We saw Dante's
toinb in that church, also, but we were glad to know that his body was
not in it; that the ungi-ateful city that had exiled him and persecuted
him, would give niuch to liave it there, but need not. hojte to ever secure
tiiat higii honor to lier.self- Medicis are good enough for Florence. Let
her i)lant Medicis, and build grand monuments over them to testify how
gratefully she was wont to lick the hand that scourged her.
sUH
I •
I!
iini
r
If K
150
WOXDERFL'L MOSAICS.
Aliiguaniinous Florouoc ! Her jewelry iimrts are fillorl witli artists
in tiicsiiic. Florentine mosaics are the choicest in tlie world.
Florence loves to have that said, Florence is ])rou(l of it."
Florence would foster this speciiility of hers. Hhe is <,n-ateful to the
artists that bring to ]i<;r this high ci'edit and till her cofi'ei's with foreign
inoney, and so she encouriigc^s tliein with pensions. With i)ensionM !
Tliink of tlie lavislmess of it. She knows that [leople who ])iece together
the beautiful trilles di(> early, because the laboi- is so confining, and so
exhausting to hiind and brain, and ,so she has decreed that Tdl tliese
l>eoi)io who reach the age of sixty, shall have a pension aft(?r that 1 I have
not heard that any of them have called for their dividends yet. One
man did iight along till he was sixty, and start(;d after his pension, but
it appeared there had been a mistake of a year in his family record, so
li? gave it up and died.
These artists will take ])i!rticles of stone oi' ghvss no lai-ger than a
nrustard seed, and niece theiu together on a sleeve button or a shirt stud,
so smoothly and with such nice adjustment of the delicate shades of color
the ])ieces bear, as to form a pigmy rose with stem, thorn, leaves, petals
complete, and all as .softly and as truthfully tinted as though Nature had.
builded it herself. They will countei-feit a fly, or a high-toned bug, or
the ruined Coli.seum, within the cramped circle of a breastpin, and do it
so deftly and so neatly that any man might think a master painted it.
I saw a little table in the great )nosaic school in Florence — a little trifle
of a centre table — whose tjp was made of some sort of precious polished
stone, and in the stone was inlaid the figure of a flute, with bell-mouth and
a mazy complication of keys. No painting in the Avorld could have been
softer or richer ; no shading out of one tint into another could have been
more perfect; no work of art of any kind could have been more faultless
than this flute, and yet to count tlie nuiltitude of little fragments of stone
which they swore it was formed would bankrupt any man's arithmetic !
I do not think one could have seen where two particles joined each other
with eyes of ordinary shrewdness, t 'ertainly toe could detect no such
blemish. This table-toj) cost the labor of one man for ten long years, so
they said, and it was for sale for thirty-five thousand dollars.
We went to the Church of Santa C'roce, from time to time, in Florence,
to weep over the tombs of Michael Angelo, Raphael and Machiavelli, (I
suppose they are buried there, but it may be that they i-eside elsewhere
and rent their tombs to other parties— such being the fashion in Italy,)
and between times we used to go and stand on the bridges and admire
the Arno. It is popular to admire the Arno. It is a great historical
creek with four feet in the channel and some scows floating around. It
would be a very jilausible river if they would pump some 'water into it.
They all call it a river, and they honestly think it is a river, do these dark
and bloody Floi-entines. They even helj> out the delusion by building
bridges over it. I do not see why they are too good to wade. '
How the fatigues and annoyances of travel fill one with bitter preju-
dices sojnctimes ! I might enter Florence under liappier auspices a
LOST AdAIN'.
151
month hence and fan.l it all l,eautiful, all attractive. But .1 do not care
to think of It now, at all. nor of its roomy shops filled to the ceiling
with snowy marble and alabaster coj.ies of all the celebrated sculptures
in Enrope--co]nes so enchanting to the eye that I wonder how they can
really be shaped like the dingy petrified nightmares they are the por'traiis
ot Jgotlostinl'lorenceatnine o'clock, one night, and staid lost in
tliat labyrinth of narrow streets and long rows of vast buildings that
look all alike, until toward three o'clock in the morning. It was a
pleasant night and at first there were a good many people abroad, and
there were cheerful lights about. Later. I grew accustomed to i.rowlin.r
about mysterious drifts and tunnels and astoni.shing and interesting
myselt with coming around corners expecting to find 'the hotel staring
'furX-' ,''"'' '"'^ *'"*^"'= i* *'""'.^' '^'ly ^'»i"S- "f tlie kind. Later
still, 1 felt tire.1. I .soon felt reniarkal>lv tired. But there was no one
al)road, now— not even a, policeman. I walked till I was out of ^.ll
patience and very hot and thirsty. At last, somewhere after one
o clock, 1 came unexpectedly to one of the city gates. I knew then that
i was very far fr<.m the hotel. Tlu* soldiers thought I wanted to leave
tfie city, and they sprang up and barred the wnv with their muskets.
f saiil :
:A:
I WANT TO (10 HOME.
" Hotel d'Europe ! "
It was all the Italian I knew, and I w.is not certain whether that v/an
Italian or French. The soldiers looked stu[)idly at each other and at
r
p\\
162
THE LEANIN<; TOWEH OF I'ISA.
me, and shook their heads and took nie into custody. I .s;iid I wanted
to go home. Tliey did not understand me. They took me into the
j<uard liouse and searched me, but tliey found no sedition on me.
They found a small piece of soap (we carry soap with us, now,)
and I made them a present of it, seeing that they regarded it
HH n curiosity. I continued to say Hotel d'Europe, and they
continued to sliake their heads, until at last a young soldier nodding
in the corner roused up and said something. He .said he knew
■wheie the hotel was, I suppose, for the officer of the guard sent him
!1,way with me. We walked a hundred or a hundred and fifty miles, it
appeared to me, and then he got lost. He turned this May and that, and
finally gave it up and signified that he was going to spend the remainder
of the morning trying to find the city gate again. At that moment it
struck me that there was something familiar about the liouse over the
wny. It was the hotel !
It was a hapi>y thing for me that there happened to lie a soldier there
that knew ey^'u as nuich as he dic^ ; for they say that the policy of the
go-v ernment is to change the soldiery from one jila'ce to another constfaitly
and from country to city, so that they can not beconie acquainted witli
the peoi)le and grow lax in their duties and enkn- into ]>lots and con.spiracies
with friends. My experiences of Florence were chieHy unjileasant. I
will change the subject.
At Pisa we climbed up to the top of the strangest structure the world
has any knowledge of— the Leaning Tower. As every one knows, it Ls in
the neighborhood of one hundred and eighty feet high— and I beg to
observe that one hundred and eigkty feet i^ach to about the height of
four ordinary three-story buildings piled one on top of the other, and is a
very considerable altitude for a tower of uniform thickness to aspire to,
even when it stands upright— yet this one leans more than thirteen feet
out of the perpendicular. It is seven hundred years old, but neither
history or tradition say whether it was built as it is, purposely, or whether
one of its sides has settled. There is no record that it ever stood straight
lip.. It is built of marble. It is an airy and a beautiful structure, and
eaoli of its eight stories is encircled by fluted colunnis, some of marble
and some of granite, with Corinthian capitals that were handsome when
they were new. It is a bell tower, and in its top hangs a chime of ancient
bells. The winding .staircase within is dark, l)ut one always knows
wiiich side of the tower he is on because of his naturally gi'avitating from
one side to the other of the staircase with the rise or dip of the tower.
Some of the stone-stejis are foot- worn only on one end ; others only on
the other end; others only in the middle. To look down into the tower
from the top is like looking down hito a tilted well. A rope that hangs
from the centre of the top touches the wall before it reaches the bottom.
Stan»ling on the summit, one does not feel altogether comfortable when
he looks down from the high side ; but to crawl on your breast to the
verge on the lower side and try to stretch your neck out far enough to
see the base of the toMer, makes your flesh creep, and convinces you for a
A XKW m)l,Y HKIM ICIIRK.
mngle moment m sjnte of all your l.hilosoj.l.y, that tl.e Luildin-Ms fallino-
You handlo yourse f very carefully, all tl.e time, under the sill y hnpre.ssion
thiit u It IS not fal ing, your trifling weight will stai-t it uiiless vou are
particular not to '< })ear down " on it.
The Duonio, close at hand, is one of the finest cathedrals in Eu.-o,,e
It IS eight Jnuidred years old. Its grandeur has outlived the hi«h
commercial prosperity and the political importance that made it a necessity
or rather a possibility. Surrounded by poverty, decay and n.in. it
eonv^y.s to us a more tangible impression of the formei- gmitne.ss of Pisa
tlian books could give us.
The Baptistry, which is a few years older than the Leaiiin.' Tovc>r is
a stately votunda, of huge dimensions, and was a costly stnicture. In it
lmng.s the lamp whose measured .swing suggested to Galileo the pendulum.
It looked an insignificant thing to have conferred upon the world t.f
.science and mechanics such a mighty extension of tl>eir dominions as it
lias, rondering. ,„ .s suggestive pre.sence, I .seeme.l to see a crazv
universe of .v . g disks, the toiling children of this sedate parent
lie appeared . e an uitelligent expression about him of knowin-
ih^ he was .o. a lamp at all ; that he was a Pemlulum ; a penduhnn
dispised, for prodigious ai;d inscrutible purposes of his own deei! devisin-.'
and not a common penduh.m either, but the old original patriarchal'
Pendulum— tlic Abraham Pendulum of the world
This Baptistry isendowed with the most pleasing echo of all the echoes
we have read of The guide .sounded two sonorous notes, about half an
octave apart; the echo an,swered with the most enchanting, the most
melodious, the richest blending of svyeet .sounds that one can Tma-^ine It
was like a long-drawn chord of a church organ, infinitely softene.l by
distance. I may be extravagant in this matter, but if this be the ca.se
my ear IS to blame-not my pen. I am describing a memory-and one
that will remain long with me.
The peculiar devotional .spirit of the oldeiuime, which placed a higher
confidence in outwai-d forms of worship than in the watchful guardin-
of the heiiit against sinful thoughts and the hands against sinful .leeds.
and Avluch believed m the ]>rotecting virtues of inanimate objects made
holy by contact with holy things, is illu.strated in a striking 'manner in
cne of the cemeteries of Pisa. The tombs are set in soil brought in
sinps from the Holy Land ages ago. To be buried in such ground was
regarded by the ancient Pisans as being more potent for salvation than
many nia.sses purchased of the church and the vowing of many candles
to tlie Virgin.
Pi.sa is believed to be about three thousand years old. It was one of
the twelve great cities of ancient Etruria, that commonwealth which has
lett so many monuments in testimony of its extraordinary advancement,
mid so little history of itself that is tangible and con.prehensibU.. A
Pisan antiquarian g.ave „,o r,n ancient tear jug which he averred was full
lour thou.sand years old. It was found among the ruins of one of the
oldest of the Etruscan cities. He said it came from a tomb, and wa«
K
154
A KAIJ.KX KiorriiLic
usetl by soiiio btM-^'iivc'd fumily intliitt romote ai,'o when even tlie PyniinidH
of Egypt were ^ '"Hf-'- Dauiasiis a village, AhraJiaiii a prattlinj,' infant
ami aiieif^nt Ti-oy not yet droanit of, to reoei\-c the tears -svt^pt for .some
lost idol of a lioiiseliold. It spoke to us in a language of its own ; and
with a pathos more tender than any words might bring, its mute eloquence
swept down the long roll of the centuries witli its tale of a vacant chair,
a fainiliar footstep missed from the threshold, a pleasant voice; gone fi-om
the choi'us, a vanished form I -a tale which is always so new to us, ao
startling, so teri'ibhi, so bemnubing to the senses, and behold how
threadl>are and old it is ! No shi'ewdly-worded liistory could have
brought the myths and siiadows of tJiat old dreamy age before us clothed
with human Hesh and warmed with human symiiathies so vividly as did
this jioor little unsentierit vessel of pottery.
Pisa was a i-ep blic in the middle ages, with a government of hei- own,
armies and navies of her own and a great commerce. Slie was a warlike
])owpr, and inscribed upon her banners many a brilliant tight with Genoese
and Turks. It is said that the city once junubered a poi)ulation of four
Imndi'cd thousand ; but her sceptre has }>assed from her grasp now, her
ships and her armies are gone, her commerce is dead. Her battle-flags
bear the mohl and the dust of centuries, her marts are deserted, she has
shrunken f;\r within her ci'umbUng walls, and her great population has
diminished to twenty thousand sends. She has but one thing h'ft toboaat
of, and that is not nnicli, viz : she is the second city of Tuscany.
We reached Leghorn in time to see all we wished to see of it long
before the city gates were closed for the evening, and then came on board
the ship.
We felt as though we had been away from home an age. We never
entirely appreciated before, what a very pleasant den our state-room is ;
nor how jolly it is to sit at dinner in one's own seat in one's own cabin,
and hold familiar conver.iation with friends in one's own language. Oh,
the I'ai'c happiness of comprehending every single word that is said, and
knowing that every word one says in return will be understood ar. well !
We Avoidil talk oui-selves to death now, only tluire are only about ten
passengers out of the sixty-live to talk to. The others aro^ v/andering,
we hanlly know where. We shall not go ashore in Leghorn. We are
surfeited v/ith Italian cities for the present, and much j)refer to walk the
fiimiliar »piarter-deck and view this one from a distance.
The stupid magnates of this Leghorn government can not understand
that so large a steamer as oiu's could cross the broad Atlantic with no
other pnrjwse than to indulge a party of ladies and gentlemen in a
pleasure excursion. It looks too improbable. It is susj)icious they think.
Somi thing more important must bo hidden behind it all. They can not
miderstand it, and they scorn the evidence of the shij)'s papers. They
have decided at last that we are a battalion of incendiary, blood-thirety
Garibaldians in disguise 1 And in all seriousness they have set a gun-
boat to watch the vessel night and day, with orders to close down on aaiy
revohitionary movement in a twinkling I Police boats are on patrol duty
THHEATS OP QUARANTINE.
155
about US all the time, and it is as ,uuch us a sailor's liberty is worth to
show hunsolf ,n a red shirt. Th.^se policenH-r. follow th^Jxeciv^
oihcers boat from shore to ship aud fro.u ship to shore a 1 wu Sf Ms
dark ,na,.„uvro.s with a vigilant eye. Thev !vill arrest 1 m ve d ss
he assumes au expression of countenance that shall have H cif earn ^
LsurreCon and sed.t.on in it. A visit pai.l in a frien.Ily w v t/( e S
xaribuali yestenlay (by cordial invitation) bv some of <nJZ^^^^
has gone fi. to conlirm tl^ dread suspicions the governn.ent harl!; ^^ S
matter AvJiere they get their pa.sseugers from. '
f4a
'"^J
•^f
H^h
rWi
^;; f
CHAPTER XXV.
THERE are a gooii many things about this Italy which 1 do not
uuderstanci — anil more especially I cannot understand how a bank-
rupt Government can have such palatial railroad dej)ots and such marvels
of turnpikes. Why, these latter are as hard as adament, as straight as
a luie, as smooth as a lioor, and as white as snow. When it is too dark
to see any other object, one can still see the white turnpikes of France
and Italy; and they are clean enough to eat fi-om, witho\it a tabl-i^-cloth.
And yet no tolls are charged.
As for the railways — we have none like ti.;-ni. The oai-s slide as
smoothly along as if they were on runners. Tlie depots are vast palaces
of cut marble, with stately colonades of the same royal stone traversing
them from end to end, and with ample walls and ceilings richly decorated
with frescoes. The lofty gateways are graced with statues, and the
broad floors are laid in polished flags of marble.
These things win me more than Italy's hundred galleries of priceless
art treasui-es, because I can understand the one and am not competent to
appreciate the other. In the turnpikes, the railways, the depots, and
the new boulevards ofnniform houses in Florence and other cities here, I
see the genius of Louis Napoleon, or rather, I see the works of that
statesman imitated. But Louis has taken care that in France there i^iall
be a foundation for these improvements — money. If e lias always the
wherewithal to back up his projects; they strengthen France and never
weaken her. Her material prosperity is genuine. But here the case is
different. This country is bankrupt. There is no real foundation for
these great works. The i)rosj)erity they woidd seem to indicate is a pre-
tence. There is no money in the treasury, and so they enfeeble lier
inst€ad of strengthening. Italy has achieved the dearest wish of her
heart and become an independant State — and in so doing she has drawn
an ele])hant in the political lottery. She has nothing to feed it on.
Inexperienced in government, she plunged into all manner of useless
expenditure, and swamped her treasury almost in a day. She squandereil
millions of Francs on a navy which she did not need, and the first time
she took her new toy into action she got it knocked higher than Gildei--
roy's kite — to use the language of the Pilgrims.
But it is an ill-wand that blows nobody good. A year ago, when Italy
greenbacks hardly woi'tli
saw utter ruin staring her in the face, and her
KC'CLESIASTICAl. SPLKNDOR.
167
the pnper they ^ye,•e printed ...i, h,-r ParUameut ventmv.l ui.,.n a roup de
,aain that would Imvo appalled the stoutest of her statesmen under less
desperate circumstances. They, in a manner, cotitiscat...! the domains of
the Church. Tins in prie,st-n<l,l,.n Italy ! This in u lan.l which has
jtroped m the midnight of priestly superstition for si.vteen hundred years-
It was a rare good fortune for Italy, the stress of weather that 'drov(^
her to hreak trom this prison-house.
They do nofc call it ruujisnainf, the church proi.erty. That would
sound too harshly yet But it am.nmts to that. There are thous.nids of
c'^mrches m Italy, each with untold millions of treasures store.l aw.v in
Its closets, and each with its l.ittalion of priests to l)e suimorted \nd
then there are the estates of the Church- league on league of the'richest
ands and the noblest forests in all Italy- all yielding immense revenue.H
to th(^ Church, and none paying a, cent in ta.xes to the State. In some
great districts the Church owns aU the property -lands, waf-rcan-ses,'
w.Kxls nulls and factories. They la.y, they sell, th.^y manufacture and
since they pay no taxes, who can hope to compet.. with them 1
Well the Government has seized all this in elfect, an<l will yet seize it
m rigid and unpoetical reality, no doubt. Something mu.st he .lone
to feed a starvnig treasury, and there is no other I'esource in all Jtalv- ■
none but the riches of the Chu.vh. So the (Government intends to take
to itselt a great i)ortion of the revenues arisuig from priestly farms
lactones, etc., and also intends to take pcssession of the chui'ches and
carry them on, after its own fashion and upon its own resi.onsibilitv
In a few instances it will leave the establishments .jf great i)et churches
undisturbed, but in all others only a handful of priests will be ret'iined
■ulrift'' '"' ^"''*'^' " ^''''' '''" '"^ '""''""*'^'' ""^^ *'"' ^''^■''''^^- turned
Pray glance at some of these churches and their emijellishments md
see whetlier tJie government is doing a rigiiteous thing or not. In Venice
to-day, a city of a hundred thousand inhabitants, there are twelve
l^^'iidred priest.s. Heaven only knows how many there were before the
Parliament reduced their numbers. Th.M-e was the great .Jesuit Church'
Under the old regime it recpiired sixty }.rie.sts to engineer it-tlie
(royernment does it with live now, and the others are discharged from
service. All about that church wivtchedness and imveity abound At
its door a dozen liats and bonnets were <l..i1ed to us, as many heads" n ere
humbly bowed, and as many hands extended, aj.pealing L- pennies-
appealing vvith foreign words we could not understand, but appealing
niutely, with sad eyes, and sunken cheeks, and ragged raiment, that no
words were needed to translate. Then we passed within the great dooi-s
xuid It seemed that the riches of the world were l)efore us ' HuL^e
columns cai-^-ed out of single masses of marble, and inlaid from to./to
bottom with a hundred intricate figures ^^■rought in costly verde anti. ue-
ltulpits of the same rich maU-rials. whosf. draj)eries hung down in many
a pictured told, the stony fabric counterfeiting the delicate work of the
loom ; the grand altar brilliant wi-th polish-ed facings and balustrades of
fil
t>^^}
158
GENERAIi EXECRATIOX,
:
I
■I
"I I
I'
ori«ut,nl agute, jasper, vcrde auti<]iie, mid otlu.T lu'ccioiis .stont.'s, wliost-
iiaine.s, yvcn, v/e .soldoni liwir— and wlabs of prieelras ]ai)ifs lazuli lavished
oveiy where a,s reekleswly aw if tlie ehiuvli liad owned a (juarry of it. In
the midst of all tliis inagniliceiice, the solid o(,]d und Hilver furniture of
the altar seeiued ehoup and trivial. Even tlie tlooi-s and ceilings cost n
princely fortune.
Now, where is the u,s(! of allowin<;- all these riches to lie idle, while
half of that comnuinity hardly know, from day to dav, how they are
going to ke(>p Ixnly and soul together ? And. where is tlie Avisdom in
permitting hundreds upon hundreds of millions of francs to he locked uj)
in the n.seless tnimjiery of churches all over Italy, and the peo )le ground
to death with taxation to nphold a perishing government?
As far as I can see, Italy, foi' tifteen hundred years, has turned all her
energies, all her iinances, and all her industry to the l)uilding np of a vast
array of wonderful church edifices, and starving half her citizens to
accomplish it. She is to-day one vast museum of magnificence and
misery. All the churches in an ordinary Anun-ican citv jiut together
conld hardly buy tlu^ jeweled frippery in one " her hundred cathedrals.
And for every beggar in xVmerica, Italy can show a hundred— and rags
and vermin to match. It is the wretchedest, princeliest land on earth?
Look at the grand Diiomo of Florence— a vast jtile that has been
sapi)ing the jiurse.s of her citizens for five Jmndred years, and is not nearly
finished yet. Like all other men, T fell down and worshipped it, but when
the filthy beggars swarmed around me the contrast was too striking, too
suggestive, and Lsaid, " O, sons of cla.ssic Italy, ?V the spirit of enterprise,
of self-reliance, of noble endeavor, utterly dead within ve i Curse your
indolent worthies!- ness, why don't you rob your church T
Thi'ec hundred hapi)y, comfortable priests are emnloved in that
Cathedral. '
And now that my temper i.s up, .' may as well go on and abuse every
body T can think of. They have a gi and :Mausoleum in Florence, whicli
they built tt) bury our Lord and Sa\ lour and the Medici family in. It
sounds blaspliMnous, but it is tnie, and liere they act blasphen'iy. The
dead and danuied Medici.s who cruelly tyrrauized over Florence and were
her curse for over two hundred years, are salted away in a circle of costly
vaults, and in their midst the Holy Sepulchre was'to have been set up.
The exi)edition sent to Jenisalem to seize it got into trouble and could
not accomplish the burglary, and so the centre of the mausoleum is vacant
now. They say the entire mausoleum was intended for the Holy
Sei)ulchre, and was only turned into a family burying place after the
Jerusalem exjiedition failed— but you will excuse 'me. Some of them
Medicis wouM have snniggled themselves in sure. What f/iei/ iuid not
the eflrontery to do, was not worth doing. Why, they had their trivial,
forgotten exi-loits on land and sea pictured out 'in grand frescoes (as did
also the iincient Doges of Venice) with the Saviour and the Virgin
fclirowing bouquet.s to them out of the clouds, and the Deity himself
applauding from his throne in Heaven '. And who painted the.se things f
M<»iu: m.\(;mi''|('k.v(k.
I .-.9
An,hva del Sarju ^dontk,,! his priinvs in piainvs th.t unist save then,
forcvc... r,nn tho ohlivionthey nuTited. and 'thev let hin, stam S. ' ,
l.m n.jht aphael piotnml sn.-h infWual villains as Cat! .'.rin. • ,
Mnn. do Me,lu.,s sealci in heaven and convorsin,' fannliadv vi h * ,
\.rgin Mary and tJ.e angels, (to sav nothing, of h^.),.,- ,.e ■ on.e^ .I
yet my h-u^nds ab,u<o nu, becanse I am a little pr.;j.Klie d ^ t ^^ "
mas evs-- -beoauHe 1 f:u\ .„„,etimes to see the bmuty that , 1^
I.roduot.ons. I ean not help but see it, now and then, bnt 1 kv ,
protest u^a^amst the grovelin. spirit that oonld persnade ho L ,nast< '
to prosft..te then- noble talents to the adulation of such monSrs the
^r:li thr:::i;;e:' "'" ''^''''''^ ^-'^ ^^ ^-' "-' ^''- ).-,b:.;;;t
I am told that tho old masters ha.l to .lo these shameful thin-s f,,,-
bi-ea. the pnuees and potentates bein-^ the onlv patron f "jf.
grandly ,.tted , nan n.ay drag his pride and his manhoo<l in the dirt for
l>.-ead rather than Htarvo with the nobilitv that is in hi,n u, t nte f^ e
excuse an a vah<l one. It .vould excuse theft in Was " \^
Wellingtons, and nnehastitv in women as well "'•'.,Tons .uul
.J^rrt'^n^^"' "'' 1^"'^""' ^''^'''' •"'"'^'•'-"" -'* of '"V
uiemoij. It IS as large as a ohnreh ; its i)avenient is rich enoii..!, f,,,. +1.:
pavement of a kii,.^ pah.ce ; its groat <loL i. go^^ns tiU?S<^ • ^
wa Is are made of vvhat I Marl.le /-plaster ?1™,U ^pa" N^
Re ,,orphyry-yerde anti-iue-jasper- oriental agate la l.abaster
mocher-ot-pear oh.-dcedony-red coral-lapis la.uli : AH the vt walls
u^ made whol y of these precious stones worked in, and in nid
ogother m elaborate patterns and figures, and polisl ed till L: low
oveiiiead. An<l before a statue of one of these de..! ^T,>,Uni. ,.
tJ e iiiw, Um.ist. T , PS. ,,re tl,,. r},i„s» tlio (l„v,.ri.uiciit i,,i. it» ovi' eve
;svi;;':,';;''"-'- """= ■• -■"' '■'■ '-• "•">■ »-''™ "->• -".»™- ": *:
And now—' Howevei-. another Ite-rgar ai)i>ro-iehes 7 unll ,•, ,.
h.s^^;^rc:im^;rx2!r'^
mood I feel that af^e,- talking so iredy ^^bo^^hf ^ i ^j' ^^f^
tT't^': vV w'" Y '\ T k„ow'any tiling giod abo," eltt
1 ougiit to siy It. I /urrr' heard of manv things that redound to the
now is th "di"f '""'' '"i *!" --t-t;.ble UK^tterthatoZs to
now s the devotion one of the mendicant order.s showed durin- th^
prevalence of cholera last year. I .speak of the Doniiniea f " ''ain
^^..: W^"% '"7 ^^--'\-^-. ->d a cowl, in this hot din^^
.UKl go iMiefoot. They live on alms altogetlier, I l>elieve. They must
. M
ti
ill
V »<^
KID
riVITA VKC'CIIIA THE DISMAL.
fl
i
■"•'ii;
ii-
uuqiit'Htioiiiiljly lovo tlieir rc'li<,'ion, to siifl'cr so mueli for it. Whoii tli<!
(•liolora Ma« ra«,'in<,' in Nnjilos ; wlien tlio pcoplo wci-o dying by liundrods
!ind Inindrods oveiy diiy : when ovciy concern for tlio pnlilic welfaro
was swallowed up in selfish private interest, and every citizen mad*)
the takiii}^ cai-e of himself his sole object, tliese men banded thonisflvtis
together and went about nursing the sick and burying the dead. Tlieii-
noble ellbrts cost many of them their lives. 'I'jiey laid them down
cheerfully, and well thty might. (IreedH mathematically piwise, and
hair-sp*'tting niceties of doctrine, are absolutely necessary for the salva-
tion of some kinds of souls, but surely the charity, the purity, the un-
selfishi: ■ s tliat are in the hearts of men like these, wouhl save their
souls though they were bankrupt in the (rue religion- -which is ours.
One of thesis fat bare-foot(Hl rascals came here to Civita Vecchia with
us in the little Frcncli steamer. There were, only half a dozen of us in
the cabin. He l)eIonged to the steerage. He was the life of the ship,
the bloody-minded son of the IiHpiisition I He and tho leader of the
marine band of a FVench man-of-war played on the jtiano ami saiig opera
turn about ; they sang iluets together; tlu-y rigged impromptu tlieatrical
costumes and gave us extravagant farces and pantomimes. We got
along tirst-rate with the friar, and were excessively conversation:! 1, albeit,
lie could not understand what we said, and certainly he never uttered a
word that we coidd guess the meaning of.
This Civita Vecchia is the finest nest of dirt, vermin and ignorance wo
have found yet, except that African jjerdition they call Tangier, which
is just like it. The i)eople here live in alleys two yards wide, wliicii
have a smell about them which is peculiar biit not entertaining. Jt is
well the alleys are not wider, because they hold as much smell now as .a
person can stand, and of c(jurse if tliey were wider they would hold
more, and then the ))eople would die. These alleys ar;i paved witli
stone, and cari)eted with deceased cats, and decayed rags, and decom-
posad vegetable-to2)s, and remnants of old boots, all soaked with disli-
water, and the ])eople sit around on stools and enjoy it. They are indo-
lent, as a general thing, and yet have few pa.stinu;s. They M'ork two or
three houi-s at a time, but not hard, and then knock off and catch flies.
This does not i-equire any talent, because they have only to grab — if they
do not get the om^ they are after, they get aTiother. Tt is all the same
to them. They liave no jiartiidities. Whichever or.e they get is tho
one they want.
They have other kinds of insects, but it does not make them arrogant.
They are very quiet, impreteuding people. They have more of these
kind of things than other communities, but they do not boast.
They are veiy imcleaulj- — these people — in face, in person and dress.
When they see any body with a clean shirt on, it arouses their scorn.
The women wash clothes, half the day, at the public tanks in the streets,
but they are ])robably somebody else's. Or nuiy be they keep one set to
wear and another to wash ; because they never put on any that have ever
been washed. When they get done washing, they sit in the alleys and
nvITA VKrHHIA THK MSM VL.
101
=;;i::::.i:;;t.j:;irij:;:j-;r,,;;;i;-- '"-' ^
"t a, vnyU.u- sta-o. Om nortio , F 1 , /!'<•'>• .Hl,„-ut,o.i is
„eHs. intstl,.„H|, .„„1 tlu. mst ,„t.. tli. sl.n^-„,«k^l.;^r l,„,;i
filct will l,„ all. sUH; u^l :!" ^r '"'""""••^ "^ Turkey. This
tlun- would uot l^'^i^T 7'^ ^'"' ^""'" I." ^''•"■^'"■•■. '^'"J tlu-n
take ,uv passport in n.v h u, ■ f . fi i P 'r'".'* ""'" '''^'••' t^' '«* "'«
tuk.. tl... town, Ukolv li l.,lhlH • '"■" ^''T"-^'''^ ' ^^•'"♦<"i *"
Tlu,y.xannn.;iu. t,,., " t , 2.'^''^:;- "^ ^ -uuhh^'t have, it.
it was too dee, tW tln'Vlv ..';":' 1" '""^ ^I '--Awards. IJ„t
si.mdate,lonit'awln]e;hutitnl;iKL:^;r'^'""''' '"^^^ ^'^'^'^^ •^-'^-
.hII:,::.;;;;;;;;;'';!:::;;,^';!^:-,,:^ '7"*^' » -v-^'^ ofHoe,.speiied i, <...•
innuediatelv said Zid 1^1^"/"''''' *^"" ^ f^lt alanned. 1
"'•"'"Hi. ind s„ V, „:i' r ; .^'^'^''""''"t. "•'<! they ovc.wded
took notes o al I vud ' h t t? '"'y '""'l' •"" ^■'^^•'"'"^"'' ''»'> ^^'-v
not understand ^f^inilit^^;,;;':;,^-;"'--';^ J''---
'indorstand it myself TI.ev «...M ,, 'v"- ! ''^ '"■'*' ' ''""ill not even
Wocum.-ut, leveled nt the ■ ,., / '''r f 'f'^'^ '* '^''^^ "" i'-«>»liarv
;;ot, hut tw ol;;;.ii i;:;;x;ran. r;;r .rlirs.;];:^ \r
son^> r ; r'^i::;:::. n;': • ;;-», «'r% t.ey eonHseat:d if "rta. ^:?
ag.;at deal .^- p; ^ , j "^J ' .^V' '"^ '"'7'; '/r^' •'"'^«' ^"^^ ^k
iiiin-mv, audi lit, l„,„vsl,.,ilt ij .,• T , , ''" '"■" "'"*' ™T
■<< : 1
102
OKK KOIl IIOMK.
jiny Hiiiokcilrifil old fii».-HcT»«f>us whieli arc e/ie/ (l\tuvrea of UrulicuH or
fcJiiUMwiii, or Titian or Kcr^'iison, or any of tlioHo |iartit's ; mid tlmy
hft\i n't any bottled fra<,'iin'uts < .,aiiJt.s, niid not t-vcii a nail from the
tme eroNs. "We are goiny to FJoine. Tliciv is jiothin;,' to wo here.
i;
i'
k
CHAPTEl. XXVI.
VAr*^'*^ '' '•'* '^ *'"'* COnff'lN tllC lliJ 'est <lf( rl.f ) \V\ . • .1
I'lK'lf-. To .riv« l.irtll tn n M •""',"" ''"''it'lUl^ a Vll«i,Mltl,.„H-
iutelh-ctuul >C't ri:./ , , ti;^,h:.t T'T.r f"^" t''-M''t- ..n
l.low had ..one uv.. • Jn"fo,.. T i ''*," ^'"''' *'"^^ "^'"'y '^ '"«'»-
to H,ul ti: way on X: tl. ."'l 7 '• '"*^^1*''"^«*' *'> "'^ent a n.^vlun^.,^
w.tl. wl.i:^. oti;l. ^lea r u^ t , "i:;: '' ""^•'■^''""'V'' ^"'"'"^''^
ri.eap and trivial .Mors J 1 « """""MM.lacv, otl.rr ,,c.sta.;iMs
I.lHco.1 his tm, no; h n il^; '1"" '""T,"'^' l^*' ""1'^'"^^'' ^^■''«" '""
.ronnor, wh.n lis C ie w t '" '"" ''^' *"^ '^'^ ""boat n,ov..| ;
tlirou-li his )a-,in tl.f r^ 1 "nscathed ; Howe, Avheu tho idfu shot
I.a.l - . tre t^^ J^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^'^'^^^ gen.mtions the ey.
ofartwhoird::;;:;;i^'j:i:jr:^ro;;.:^r;;::;f!:r'^^
Materan,lt ^il^ Id (Sh . '^ t!' l^'i^:? '" 'T 'f ^"'f ^'"'^ ^"^ '^'"'^
liis hat above a fah ed s^ il ! ,' '^''^^^^^^^
These are Z me v o L; -''fl /.'''^V'"' "I'"" ''" "uknowii worhl"
i" a single .noment ■""'■ ^■'•'-'^^•''-' l*^"-' lifeti-s of e Jaov
.. J' wtf r '^:z:':x t;s ;!;:;; ir ^t '-' -- '^'-
What is there for me' to flpft Z"''"'' ''^"■'' "'^^ t"ncl,ed <
, "•''.R
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THK MdDKRN KoMAX THAVKLETH.
I'
ir
I wouid yu to Aineiicit. ami see, and learn, and return to the t'ampagna
juwl stand liefore my countrymen all illustrious discoverer. I would sav :
" [ saw there a country which has no overshadowing Motlier ('hurch.
.'Old j^et the ])euj)le survive. I saw a government which never was
lu-otected by foreign soldiers at a cost greater than tiiat recjuired to cari-y
on the governuient itself. I saw common men and common women who
could read ; T even saw small childreri of common country people reading
from l>ooks ; it I dared think you would believe it, I would say thev
could write, ;(ls(i. In the cities I saw jjeople drinking a delicious beverage
uuide of clialk ,iiid water, but never once saw goats driven throuo'h their
Broadway or their Penn.sylvania Avenue or their Montgomery .street
aud milked at the doors of the houses. I saw real glass window.s in the
houses of even the commonest peofile. Some of the houses are not of
stone, nor yet (jf bricks ; I solennily swear they are made of wood.
Houses there will take lire and hwni, sometimes — ^iictually burn entirely
down, and not leave a single vestige behind. T could 'state that for "a-
truth, upon my deatli-bed. And as a proof that the circum.stance is not
rare, I aver that they have a thing which they call a lire-engine, whicii
vomits forth great .streams of water, and is kept always in readiness, by
night and })y day, to rush to houses that are burning. ' You would think
one engine would be sufficient, but some great cities have a hundred :
they keep men hired, and i)ay them ]jy the month to do nothing liut pur
out fires. LA^r a certain sum of nioney other men will insure tliat your
house shall not burn down ; and if it burns they will pay you for it.
There are hundreds and thousands of schools, .aurany body n\ay go iuid
learn to ba v/i.se, like a iiriest. Tn that singular country if a rich man
dies a sinner, he is dannied ; he cannot buy salvation' with money for
masses. There is really not much use in being rich, there. Not much
use as far as the other world is concerned, but much, very nu;ch. use
its concerns this ; because there, if a man be rich, he is very greatly
honored, and can becoine a legislator, a governor, a general, a senatoi', no
matter how ignorant an ass he is — ^just as in our beloved Italy the noljle.-
hold al; the great places, even though sometimes they are'})orn noI>l(-
idiots. There, if a man be rich, tli., y give him costly jtresents. they
ask liim to feasts, they invite him to drink comi)licate(i beveragc^s : but
if he be poor and in debt, they rt luire him to do that which they term
to "settle." The women ))ut on adiffercnt dress almost every day ; the
dre.ss is usually lino, but absurd in shape ; the ver}- shajjo aud fasiiion of
it changes twice in a Iiundred years : and did I but co\et to be called an
e.Ytravagaut falsiiier, I would say it changed even oftener. Hair does not
Ki'ow upon the American women's heiwls :" it is made for them by cunning
v.-orkmen in theshops,and is curled aud frizzled into scandalous and ungodly
forius. Home persoii. .veareyes of glass which they see through with facility
l)(>rha[)s else they would not use thein ; and in the mouths of some are teeth
made by the sacrilegious hand of man. TJie dress of the man is laughably
grotrsrpie. They carry no -ausket in ordinary life, imv no luugpoiute!!
|»ole ; they we.-:- no wide yi-een-Hueil cloak; they wear uo peaked black
THK JIODKKN KUMAN THAVKI.KTH.
1G5
felt hut, no leathern gaiters reachin-' to tlie knop „,. ., , i • i
with the hair side o.^, no hob-nailed IZ; ^^r^^tZ^'X::
wear a conical hat termed a "i.iil I-.,.,." ., L 4. J '""*ip;""*',^P"i''- ihey
which shows dirt sr3v h. ten f '^ "f'^''' ^'^'''^' ''' "J"*^
very troublesome thhs called ' u t dtn''"'?-^ f'""'' Tf '^' '""^ '^
shoulder straps, a:;d on lliLiS tE^'^'^^^^^^S.r.,^^' l''^ ^
lu pattmi and can stand no wear. Yet dressecf n t k fw 'f'''^T
these people laughed at .,,, costume. In that counti^ I S^^^^ ^'"'^'
common that it is really L curiosity to ^^ne iLt p:^ ,^1 ^
JJ^ey have a great machine which pnnts such things UyZlZ:;:,^
wi^^siiXs; re:;^:;:i::3^;;^s "t::;'TT ^'^; ^r^-^
the church, nor fronx the nobles. I 2 re u v to Vke / "if'i 1^°'"
».■» tmrt«l j„«t like J,u,„,i being.,, iLl ,1 of " „ ^ tL ' *'T':
»notl,r,- ln,„»„ be"^';XV/on' W to hv IT" ""» ''"°" ""''
.l.e to.,.»; t„ey c,„riive il n.™' J^f' to5,X"l'i'k"',,eT it™" W
™lve» ,u„l tlioir religion e»,,«,i„llj. ;„„1 ,a,-tic„larlv ou,!^^ 1 ■ at ol
•lay, in that .inrions oountn-. n Jiw i, nllowe, fo vo 1 1 1 i "'^
set .,,. on a rostrun, in tl,e-,mblio J^^tZStZjTlJ "'*"■'./"'.
.ov.,,„neut if tl,e ,,,ve,J,onl ■l.^lSfl^"'''}^VT'Zli^
Tlie oonunon i,eo|>le tliei-e kno»- a .oei.t ,l,.,l ■ tt ■ "omlerlil.
.•i.Vonte,y to c„n„ lain if they.,,, not" ^^ ' .^^J'^^J'';:^
M.fetance. <)nB l,a,,lly „vo,°;..t",, , i, il 1, ,1,'. '"i""? "'' "''!:
.We i„ ,.i, ,.„.e feet, liti. „ i^^rb^.; f« isiifr^r.r
vwuntry the preachers are not like our mendicT.it ...-.Ipv^ "..f f • .. '
Lave two o,. tln-ee s„i,„ of elo.l.i,,,. .™„ tl^^llirtrj'.^r'^IS
,^
, I
■i n
Mi t-
16G
A MODKHN KOMAN TKA\RLETH.
land are luouutains fai- liighev than tlie Albau inoiiiitains ; the vast
Roiiiaii Cam])rtf?na. a hundred miles lony and full forty hio(id, is really
small compared to tlie United States of America ; the 'Tiber, that cele-
bi'iited river of o\irs, wliich stretches its mighty course almost two hundred
miles, and which a lad can scarcely throw a stone across at Eome, is not
so long, nor yet so wide, as the American ^lississippi — nor yet the Ohio,
nor even the Hudson. In America the iteo])le avo alwolutely wiser and
know much niore thiui their gi-andfathers did. Thcij do not plow with a
sharpened stick, nor yet with a three-coiaiered block of wood that merely
scratches the top of the ground. We do that becau.se our fathers did".
tJiree thousand years ago, I suppose. But those i)eoi)le have no holv
reverence for their ancestors. They plow with a plow that is a sharp,
curved blade of iron, and it cuts into the earth full five inches. And this
is not all. They cut their gi-aiu with a horrid machine that mows down
wliole fields in a day. If I dared, I would say that sometimes they use
.'I bltis])hemous plow that work.s by tire and vapor and tares up an acre of
^'round in a single hour—but— but— I .see by your looks you do not
believe the things I am telling you. Alas, my cliaracter is ru'ined, and T
!un a branded sj)eakei' of untruths 1"
(.)f cour.se we ha\e been to the nionster Church of St. Peter, freipiently.
1 knew its dimensions. I knew it was a ])rodigious structure. I knew
it M-as just al)Out the length of the capitol at Washington— say .seven
hundred and thirty feet. I knew it was three hundred and si.xty-four
feet wide, and consequently wider than the capitol. I knew that the
cross on the to\> of the dome (5f the church was four hundred and thirtv-
eight feet al)ovfc the ground, and therefore about a hundred or may ))e"a
hundred and twenty-live feet higher than the dome of the capitol. ' Thus
I had one guage. I wished to come as near forming a correct idea of
how it was going to look, as possible ; I had a curiosity to see how nnich
t would en-. I erred considerably. St. Peter's did not look nearly so
large as the capitol. aiul certainly not a twentieth pai-t as })eautiful, froir
the otit.side.
When we reached the door, and stood fairly within the church, it was
imj-ossible to comprehend that it was a t-e/v/ large brilding. I had to
cipher a conii»rehension *" it. 1 had to ransack my memorv for sonu-
more similes. St. Peter's is bulky. Its height and"^ size would repre-
sent two of the Washington capitol set one 'on top of the other if
the capitol were wider ; or two l)locks or two blocks and a half
of ordinary buildings set one on top of the other. St. Peter's toas
that large, but it could and would not look so. The trouble Avas that
every thing in it and about it was on such a scale of uniform vastness
that there Avas no contrasts to judge by— none Ijut the people, and I had
not noticed them. They were in.sect,s. The statues of children holding
vases of holy water were immense, acctjrding to the tables of figures, l»ut
so was every thing else around them. The mosaic pictures in the dome
were huge, and A\'crf made of thousands and thousands of cubes of glass
lis lai-ge a« the eml of juy little finger, but those pictures looked smooth.
Tin: (ili.WDKI 1{ OK ST. I'KTKu's.
167
and ga.uly of coloi^, u,ul in gnod prof-urtiou to the dome. lOvidnitlv th.v
they call thefaMacc/uno-~n great hronze pyramidal fia,.u.-vv,.rk liket < t
which upholds a mosqinto bur. It on v looked lit .. '
magnified bedstead— nothin<^i,ior,. V.. T I . eonsi.h^rably
jnn... ..at st..l equidistant tnl'Sfotl^
the roof, I coul.l not work uj. to their ,..,! dimensions bv a .v nUh^ 'r
conipan.son I knew that the faces of each vvere abo.il :\ id of '
very Lirge (hv.,lhng-hous.. f,„ut. (fifty or sixty feet ) -u 1 f l.f
twice as high as ^n ordinary theeioryduSn^bi rt^fthv^ T^
s..all. I tried all tj.e dim.-ent ways I Jdd think ^^t^ ' , 3 n^
to understand how krge 8t. Peter's was, but with small Cess ^H.^
.uosaie portrait of an Apostle who was Writing with a en "f:et In '
seemed only an ordinary Apostle ' "^
tZ ni 1 , '""M""'^' "t ""'" 'l"^v-u toward its further evtremity
two blocks away, has a dnninishiugetreet upon them; surrou.i.k' b tl J
I.rodigKHis pictures an<l statues, and lost in the v,ust spae^ tl oy look
i avuagel a man as he passed me and watched him as he drifted f^,-
down by U^o >aUaccMuo and b.yond-watched hin V^i^Z ^
usignihc;uit .school-boy, and then, in. the nudst of th .si 1^^^^^^^^^
Imman pigmies gliding about him T lost hin,. The church ru h ey L,
decoratod,on the occasion of a great ceremony in honor ostpe'tSdm^^
were engaged, nmv m remoying the flo^yers and gilt paper from t u' was am
e y^do 7" ^"fr ''f^ '■""-'^' ^''^' ^''■^'' ^^^^^^' tJ^e "-n swum h"
•seh es down from balustrades.uul the capitals of pilas'turs by I'Oi.es todo tl^
work. The upper gallery which encirdes the inner HwipT £ do me
two hundred and forty feet aboye the floor of the chu^x-lL yery f^^^
tee, J. m Anierica con d reach u,> to it. Visitors always go in^there
to look down into the church because one "fts the b^.^* iL>rf <•
the heights and distances from that point While wro'?. ft °T
one of the workmen swung loose frlmi tluit ^atVut tei^
y >e. I h,id not supposed, before, that a man co^ad look .so mudi ike ?
S: t^: S ■ r^;:"" l^;r'"' -^^^--P-eeniedonntWh
?W f :, '"^ 'T^ "1' '"' ''"!'' «1"^CP' I ««'>lfl l>elieye the s'tory then
that ten thousand troops went to 8t. Peter's, once, to lunxr nrfss S
heir commanding officer came after^yal•d, and not tindin. t n, no e
Im nicu ate Lorception. It is estimated that the floo,- of 'the church
attonls s abiding room for-a large number of people ; f have Li-otte
the exact hgures. But no matter- it is near enou<rh '^ ^ ioi»""en
^m
lt)8
HOI.V IIKI.KS.
i< .'
riiey luive twelve small j.illa.s. in !St. Petor-s. wl.i.l, rnun- from M'olo-
nion.s Temple ihey have, also- -which wj.s far Tuore \nUnvsthm to i.u,
--a i)iece of the true cross, mul some nails, mu.I a part of tlu> onmn of
thorns.
Of com-se we usceiuled to the summit of the dome, and of course we
also went up into the gdt copper ball which is al.ov,- it- Tiior.. was
room there for a dozen pei^sons, with a little crowdiujr, ar..l it was as clos<.
and hot as an Joveu. Some of these people who are so fond of writin-
their names m proimnent places had heeu there hefore us ■ a million or
two, I should thuik. From the dome of St. Peter's one can see .nery
notable object ni Rome, from the Castle of St. Anoelo to tlu" Coliseun.
He can discern the seven hills upon which Rom,, is built. He can see
il..^ liber, and the locality of the brid^.e which Horutius kept •• in the
brave days of old when Lars Por.sena attempte<l to cross it with his
mvadmg host. He can see the spot where the Horatii and the(!uratii
fought their famous battle. He can see the broad green Campa-nia,
.stretching away towarc the mountains, with its scattered arches 'aial
broken acqueducts of the olden time, so picturesque in their grav ruin,
and so daintily .e.stooned witlr vines. He can see the Alban Mountains,
the Appenmes, the Sabme Hills, and the blue Mediterranean. H., can
see a panorama, that is varied, extensive, beautiful to tlie eve, and more
Illustrious m history than any other in Europe.- -About his feet is si.read
the remnant of a city th.at once ha.l a population of four million LnU ;
and among its massed edifices stand the ruins of temples, colur-ns, and
triumphal arches that knew tiie (V.sars, and tlu- nicmdav of Roman
splendor: and close by them, in unimi-aired strength, is a drain of arched
and ht^vy masonry that belonged to that older citv which stood here
before Romulus and Remus M-ere born or Rome thought of. The Ai.pian
AVay is here y-et, and Io<.king much as it did, perhap.s', when the triumpl.<l
processions of the Emperors mo^ed over it in other davs bringia.g fettered
princes from the conlines of the earth. We can not see the long array of
chariots and mail-clad men laden with the spoils of coiuruest. lu-t W(>'cai.
nnagine the ,>ageant, after a fashion. We look out upon manv objects
of interest from the dome of St. Peter's ; and, last of all, almost ai ou.'
feet, our eyes rest upon the building which was once the Inquisition.
How times changed, between the older ages and the new! Some
seventeen or mghteen centuries ago, the ignorent men of Rome were
wont to put Christians m the arena of the Coliseum vonder, and turn
the wild beasts m upon them fo.- a show. It Mas for' a lesson as we'
it was to teiich the people to abhor and fear the new doct'i - ,ie
followers of Christ were teaching. The beasts Unv the vict .us .i- -
trom hmb and made poor mangled corpes of them in the twiniclin o.
an eye. Lut when the Christians came into power, when v]„ holy
Mother (..hurch became mistress of th<. barbarians, she taught them the
error of their ways by no such means. No, .she put them in this pleasant
Inquisition, and j.ointed to the Ble.sse(l Redeemer, who was .so gentle
iUKl SO merciful towai-d all men. and th ■ '
men. and they urged the barbarians to I
ove
THE HUI.\KD COLISKIM.
1G9
"i
wmmmm
l.iu-bari.ii s TI,^ ?.. r • I^"""^- "'^y always conviiiccc tliose
Rome bv tlie Ain.i'Mn Wnv ti u •' in^'nt, .m,( ht: started aM-.iy from
tl» foo„.,i„t, „.e„ tl,„.,e .If :, u^; \f JltrfrrrX-
ilisciqiancy conlimied om- nnWipf. "leno leet liii-Ii. rile
>^iieli imiltitmles
■ir
' liiou and woifK
riicturi
•ere w.mt to assemble iu other days.
170
THK COMSKr.M l\ IT8 IMIIMI:
m
■M
)Hi
,f i
I '
The Jnitti'i-flies Imvo takou tlui pi .rs of tlic (iiu'i'ii.s ol' fasliiun au.[ livuutv
of eiglittUMi (•t'utiii'ies affK and tl.e lizards sun themselves in tin- SMeivd
seat of the Emperor. More vividly than all tlie wriluMi hist, hies, vlie
Coliseum tells the story of Rome's i^nuuhnir and Home's ileeay. J f i.s the
worthi(\st tyj.e of both that exists. Moving ill. out the ivume of t(;-day,
we iui<,'ht tind it hard to believe in her old niagiru'v-uce and iior milliuus
■of population; but with this stubbt,., evidei>/' '"fore us that she was
obii.jed to have a theatre with sitting room for ei<.'hty tho\isaiul persons
and staiiding room for twenty thousand more, to aecom module such of
her "itizens as recpiire I a'-iusement, wo find belief les;, diiheiUt. Thr
Colis,:Ui)i is ovei' oue thousa!i<l six hundred feet long, sewn l.iaidred and
lifLy \vid(^, and *■,- hiiudred and sixty-five high. Its sha[iH is oval.
In Amei'ica w.. v.i'ike ••onvicts useful at the same time that we punish
them for their cruii-s. V.'e farm them out and compel them to earn
mor.ey for the 8tafc(! hy making barrels and building roads. Thus \\f
conibine busiuc,s.s wiJi rjf.-ibufion, and all things are lovely. But in
cmcient Ron)(^ they eoiul>nied religious duty with jileasure. ISince it was
necessary that the new sect ciijled Christians should lie exterminated, the
people judged it wise to make this work profitable to the Sviteat the
same tin;e, and enterLiiniug to the public. In addition to the gi.idiatorial
combats ard other shows, they sometimes tluvw members of the hated
sect into the arena of the Coliseum and turned wild beasts in upon. them.
It is estimated that seventy thousand Chiistians suffered martyrdom in
this place. This has made tlie Coliseum holy ground, iu^the eves of the
followers of the Saviour. And well it might ; for if tlie chain that bouiul
a s;>int, and the footprints a saint has left upon a stone he chanced to
stand ui)on, be holy, surely the spot where a man gave up his lift; for his
faith is holy.
Seventeen or eighteen centuries ago this Coliseum was t/te theatre of
Roine, and Rome was mistress of the world. Splendid pageants were
exhibited here, in presence of the Emperor, the great ministers of State.
the nobles, and vast audiences of citizens of smaller consequence. Gladi-
ators fought with gladiators and at times with warrior j.risoners from
many a <li.stant land. It was ihe theatre of Rome— of the world— and
the uuin of fashion who could not let fall in a casual and miinteutional
manner something about " my private box at the Coliseum" could not
move in the fii-st circles. When the clothing-store merchant wished to
consume the corner grocery man with envy, he bought secured seats in the
front row and let the thing be known. When the irresistible dr^- goods
clerk wished to blight and destroy, according to his native in ■"■■ % ho
got himself up regardless of expense and took some other fello- mn*g
lady to the Coliseum, and then accented the affront by era' i' ng her
with ice cream between tli- - ts, or by api)roaching the i i^ % [ stn-rhii;-
up the martyrs Avith his wl - .one cane for her edif'catio! ' Tho Roman
swell was in his true elemenv only when he stood up aga. . .' a pillar and
fingered hisi moustache ujiconsoious of the ladies ; when L, • cwed the
bloody combats through an opera-glass two inches long ; w; . - • - citeil
A I'LAYDIU. 1700 YKARSOM,. j-J
f luMmyy of provinciiihs l.y oritici.sins which showo.l that ].,. ha.l ),vou u,
U;o (;ohse,nn many ami many a tin.e and was long ago ov • 1 ,
«t I. whou ho nna.l ,nvay with a yawn at h.st a^afsai.i. '
J/e a star ! liandlos his sword like an apim^nticv hrigand • h,.'|| J., fnv
»l.o conntry may be but ho don't answer f./r tlu- n.etropo '"
(.lad was th(^ contraband that had a seat in the i.it ..f tl,, « , i
jnatinee, ..d l.ppy the lUnnan streot4.oy i^o ai^l'hi^p . \ 'd';:^^^^
the gladmtors from the dizzy gallery '^ •
For me was reserved the-hfgh honor of disnnering amon-th,. rnl;l,ish
of the mined Coliseum the oidv Dlavbill (,f fi^.f ,J r i I
«-v+,i.,+ Ti . •' r"v"'^' *Jt ilitit estal) IS inieiit now
oxtant There was a suggestive smell of mint-dions about it sti
c .erof It had evidently been chewed, and on the margin n lie ■
L-.tm, these words were written in a delicate fenude hand :
C'l.Ariii.v."
Ah, where is that hicky vouth to-day. and where th^ little hand th-u
wn^c. those dainty lines ? Dust and ashes these seventeen hi.mlle;!
Thus reads the bill :
E0M4N COLISEUM.
■fi
UNPAKALLELED ATTEAOTIOlf.
NEW PKOPERTIES ! NEW LIONS : NEW tiJ.ADIAToRS :
Eiigagenieiit of tlie iciiowiicd
M4R( S H MAKi ELLIS 1 ALERLi.\ !
F01{ SIX NIGHTS ONM.V
.nont 1.... l.av.. to state that they have succe.:^3 l"^i„r!ag til^i^^-i.^S T""^"
GALAXY OF TALENT!
sueli US has not been lieliclil in Ifon,. l.eCm'c.
lilt' lierformnn(?e will ooinnu'iici! this cvi-iiiiig witji a
a R A sf n B It o A » !i ^^ <» it i» « o m|u a t. :
'i liLS will bo followed by a grand mornl
lUTTLE-AX KNGAOESIEXT !
OT
f >i:l
mm
ii . :
17:
A I'L.WIlll.l, I7l)(» VKARS OLft.
lirtw.Tii ilii' iviiowiicil Viili'iian iwiili one Iium.I tic.l In'liiml liim.) ami twd L'wiiilir
siiviip's 11.1111 Hiitiiiii.
.\n"\- vvhicli th,. iviiuwucl Viil.Ti;m (il' III' siiiNiv,.,) will \\^h\ with till' lintiulswoid,
LEFT HANDED !
ii;iiiii>I >ix S..|,Iioiiiori's 1111.1 n Im-.-Iiiiiiii rniiii the (;lii.li,it.)iiiil ('niii'nc |
A l.iii.!,' mtLvs 111' l.iiliiniit .■ii;rii;,'<'ni.iits will I0II..W, ill wliiWi till' lin.'Nt talciil ..f |||,'
I'.iiipir.' will tiik.' ])iirt.
AlliT whiili th.' I'clcbnitf.l InrHiit I'loiligy kn.iwii ns
"Till;: voi:«f; iiiiimkh"
uill . ii^M.^'c luiir ti,.;.'!- wlicli.s in .■..mliat. iinii.'.l with 1 tlicr wfajion tlnui liis liitir
sjicar ! '
Till' wh.)l.' t.> .■iiiiilti.l.' with a .•luistc 1111(1 ch'tfaiit
GENERAL SLAUGHTER!
In whi.^h thiit.'i'ii AI'iL^iiii l.ioii.s aiil tw.-iitv-tni. i!:iilMiiiiii rriHi.ii.Ts will war with
(ii'li .iili.T until ;,ii ,1,.,, ,..\ti'iiiiiiiiit.'.i.
lioX (M-'KU'K Now (M'KN.
I)r.'.s.s Ciivl,. On.' Dollar ; Chihlivn and Servants half i.i'i.'c.
An .■lli,i..nt ].,.li.-,. lonv will 1.,- „ii liMii.l to luvscnv onl.-r an.l ke..). the wil.l li.'astw
il'om leapui;,' the iailiiij;s ami ilisioiiiiuoilinx tile ninlieiiiM'.
D0.11S .ipeii at 7 : iierl'.nni nil'.' 1ii'!,miis at 8.
I'nsllMKl.Y \0 FkKI; l.lsT.
mm
Ili'iilol'IH .leli I'i'.'NS.
•
U v.as a.s ,sin.i,nil,ii- as ir was juTatifviii,!-' tlint I was also so fol•t^In!•^• ;is
to tiu.l aiiioii.u- tlie nihbisli of tli.' an^.a. a staiuod and mutiliit.!.! copv of
tiu' AoniKii /)(iih/ /iuf//r-A.r, I'oiitaiiiiii,:,' a critiinif upon thiw very pcr-
foniiaiHv. rt coiiu's to hand too late by many ivntnvit-.s to nmk a,s mows,
a^id tli.MWoiv 1 translate and inddisli it simplv to sliow how very little
the general .styl<^ and phraseology ofdranmtie eritieisni has altered in tlie
iiges that have dragged their slow length along since tho carriers laid this
one dump and fivsh hpfore their Rojnaii patrons :
-Till.: Oi;i:nin.: Si;as,.n. (.'(.MsiirM.-- Notwitlistan.liiii; tli.' iiielenieney of (Ik;
woath.T .[lute a lesiurtalile nmnher of tli.^ rank ami fashion of the eity assynihl.-.l
last iiiglit to witness th.' (lehnt npoii nu'trojiolitan hoar.ls of tlie yoinlg tia're.lian
ttli,. lias ol lat,' I.eeii wiiinui- siu'h gol.len ..i.inions in the aniphitheatr.'s of the,
l«r.)vwi,'..s. .Some sixty thonsuml jiersons were pivseiit, and biu for the fart iliat th.!
stivers were almost inipassalil,., it is fair t,> i.rosunie that the house would Iiavo been
uli. ills .tugust Majesty, th.' Hnip.'iv.r Auivliiis, .,,',.,ipie,l th., Imp.'rial b.,x, an.l
«as tho .'ynosure 01 all eyes. Many illustri.Mis imbles an.l generals of th.' Kinuiiv
graoo.l tile .Kvasion with their pro.senee, and not tlie least umoii" then, was 'th...
young patn.'ian lieutenant whose lanr.'Is, w..ii in th.. ra-iks of th.) "Thunderin-
U'gion, aiv still so gre.'n upon his br.)w. Th.' .lieer wlii..!i grwte.l his eiitra.io'i^
\Mts lieanl bey.nul the i ib.'r '.
'' The lat.,"n^paii.s an.l .1,.,'nrationsu.ld 1,0th t., til., .•omeljnoss and the caiulbrL ,.f
lUeLo.isemn. I lie new eiisliiuns are a gr.'.it iiiipr.)veim'iit upjn tlu' hardmirbl.-
ANriKNT HUMAN NKWHI'APKil CIMTIQfK.
I7.t
HCntH V/V ImVC llicll S(l Inilfr (ir.llNtfPllK'd Id, Tlii
llii- imlilic. Tiny liiivc icstDiiil to (lie Colisc
and tlii^ iiiiiroini iiiii;,'iii(icciiir uhidi old Colisciiin I
|)roii(l <il' lil'ty yi'iiiH ii^'(
■ iMcsiiit iiiiiiin^'cincnt drsciM- well dl
irii the Kil'liiiK, flic lii'li iipliolstfTy
r(i|iniitr rs ti'll us Home w
'I'l
ic 0|.rliiliK MTlif liiHl, liiKlit llir '„i.,ii,Ih
!iiiiiit(iirn mid II riinioiiH Part
dint
will 1 1
iir «liii wiiH SI
line. The cldrr of tlic two ydim^ f;iiitlciiicii liaiidlril 1
{■(pliilmt lii'lwcdii two yoiiHK
'ii'ic a iniKoiHT was vcrv
iiiaiki'd til
lit I
u'h W('a|ion wj
tli
IKissiHsioii ol ..xtniordiiiaiy talent. Mis Crinl, of tlinistin", I'
instantly l,y a liappily .Iclivcicd Mow w'lii.l, tMilii'lnict.'d the I'aitliiaii
that,
twcil
with hciiity apidiiusr.' I|(. was not tlioroii;;hl
It was very gratit'yiiif,' tu Jiis nnnicroiis (
liav
(' ovclionic tills delect.
II
wa.M reccivc(|
.V np ill the liackhanded stroke, Imt
Ills to know that, in time, |iMietii»! would
owevcr, he was hilled. His sister.s, who Were jiicsent
c.\|.les.sed considcnildc le«ict. His mother lelt the ('oiiscnii,. The oil
niaintaihed tin
icr voulli
ii|i|>liii':
.ontesl, with siudi sjiiiit a.s to enlj CmIIi enthnsiastic hursts r,|
When lit hisl. he |e|
dislK'\elci| and tears si
a eorii.se, his axed iiiolher r
wi'ic (■
Inti llii
rcitniin^ llom her eyes, iiiid .swooned
ig at the railings of the ar
an .s( rem II in J,', with hair
iway just as her hands
polii'O. Under the cinniiist
hnt we «nf,'.i,'est, tlmt
lire.served durin;,' the |ieirorii
enii. She wiiH ])ioiiHitiy removed hy tin
Miiees tlie Woman s coiidnct was iiiirdonalde, lierhai)f<
Jiihil
oils inteiri.re with tlie deioriiiii which shoiih
lance.'j, and are lii^hly iniiiroiier in the |iie.seiii'e of tl
riie I'arthiaii jirisoiier I'oii'jiht luiivelviiiid well ; m
he was li;,ditiiig lor hoth life and lil
le nil'
his arm with their love, and to lemind' him of t.„
he coiKiiivred. "When his second assailant fell, tin
cily. His wife and < hildien were there t
lid
;hl, for
o nerve
Nome lie should sei; a''iiin i
licr hreast and we|it lor joy. lint it
Was o
nl
.slng^ercd toward her and
late. He was wounded unto death. 'I'lnis tl
woi 1 cias|ied her children to
y a transient liiiii; iness. The captive
she .saw that the 'liheity he liiid earned
as entirely .salislaclorv. The niani
act (dosed i
was earned tc
n a manner w
his thanks for tin
hi(h
[•r was called la fore the eiirfain ami returned
e loiiordone liim, ill u speech wliii h was rejilcte with wit and
humor, and (do.sed hy hoping; that his humhle edorts to allo'rd eliee.ful and
live entertainment would eontinin? t
instnii
|iuhlii
o meet with the ,ipprohati(,ii of the I!oi
nan
riie .star now njipearcd, and was reeeiveil with voeif
.sinmltaneou.s wavinj; <il .si.xty thou.sand handkerch
(stiif,'.! iiiinie - his real name is Smith)
inent, and
an artist of rare merit. His n
splendid s]iecimeii of
erous a]iplanse and tli
Aliircus Marcelltis \';:leriai
]ihy.^
His iU'ayety and his ]diiyfnliic.ss
iami;{ement of the liattle-a.\ is
dev<di
■rfnl.
interior
tol
are irresi.stilde, in his co;iiie jiart.s, and yet they are
me eoneeptions in the ffnive realm of tiaf,'(
deserihin,!,' liery circles a'lout the heads of the litwildeicd
with his springin.L'' body and liis ))iaiicinf,' Icl'.s, tl
IroUable luirsts of hmi,dit.r; hut when t
|.y-
\V1
len Ins ax was
larliiirians, in e.vMit time
le audieiiee ''ave win- to uncon-
, , , . , . '■"'''^ "'' his weapon broke the .sk
om'andalmo.st 111 the same mslunt its ed-e clove the ethers body in t
liowl ol - ■' ■ ■ '
111
ilhusiastie applause tliat shook tlie build
!V critical assemblii^e that 1
sioii. If lie hiis a fault (and we ar
of f,'1a
lormaiiee, us if .seel
wain, tin
in;;, was the aeknowled''iiieyit of
I masti^r (d' tin; noblest deiiartment of his jn-ofes-
■e sorry to even intimate that he has) i
fflaiiciii^ at the audience, in the midst of the nio.st eAciliii" i
lire tl
111^ admiration.
is
Tl
iionieiits ol
that
le Jier-
irowii to liim is also in bad tast
to be lookiiif,' at the audience half the time, instead of
when he had slain all the ,so]iIioi
le pausin^f ill a lirrlit to bow wh"ii boiniuet..
In the <,'reat leftdianded combat heaiipeared
carvin,!; his adversaries
iiores and was dallyin,;,' with the fresi
stooped and snatched a bnmiuet as it fell, and olfend "it to his ad
aii'i
hi
ten a iilow was
iman, he
ver.sarv at a lime
wliKdi Taomi.scd favorably to be Iiis dentii-warrant.
in the jirovinecs, we Tuako no doiilit, but it ill .suits the
w]
Such levity is jiroper (
dignity of the metropobs. We tnist „
gnoil part, for we mean Iheiii sohdy for his lieneirt. " All' w'l
our young friend will take th^
remarks in
Jilthough w(i are at tim
otl'end gladiators.
es jn.'tly severe upon tiger.s ai
10 know us arcf aware that
The Infant Prodigy performed womle
!(l martyi'fi, wc never intciitionallv
IS. He overoiuiie his four tiger whi-lps
^'h
Mt\
-i"f
■m
0^
M
1* 1
Hi?
Ill
111
'3' ' !
kv
171
VNCIENT K
f APER CKITIQl'K.
uitli rase, iiiiil witli no ath nrt il , ,.sof a |)ortioii of Iiin soivlii. Thu (ii'iienil
Sluiiglitfi- was n'lulcTOl with n luUiiliiliiess to dftitils wliioli rclloctM tin; liigliest cri'ilit
ii|ion the hiti' [liirticiiiaiit t;j it.
"t'lHiii the whol.', hi I iiight'M porforiiinuci' Hhed lionor not only ii|Mni the niaii-
agenient 1ml upon tlh' city tliat unco\inij?i's iind .su.staiiiH sudi wholesome and
iiislructive I'litcrtainm. I I We would .situply su(,%'e8t that tht- iiracticti of vulgar
young hoys iu_th(! ^ralltiy of shying ]H!anuts nn,l paper ixlk-ts at the tigiu-s, and
saying 'Hi-yi !' and manifesting approbation or "■'■.,.. t . ''i' such ohspfvatiouH
as ']5ully for thf li(ni !' ' (Jo it, (ilad.ly ! ' •Loots!" 'Siu-ci hi" • Take a walk
round the li'oJc I" and so on, aic exticmcly rcprclu'osibh-, when the Hniiteror
is pvesent, and ought to be stopped by the police. Several times last night, when
the suiiernumon'ies entered the arena to drag out the bodies, the young rulli^ins in
the gallery ^u.mted, ' ;(upe ! supe ! ' and also, 'Oh, what a I'oat ! ' and ' Why
■don't you pad i irm shanks.'' and made use of various other remarks expressive of
derision, The r; things are very annoying to the audieiiic.
"Aiimtiiiet; I'or th.' little folks is promised for this afternoon, on which occasion
several e, u'yrs will be eaten by the tigers. The regular performance will continui!
every ni,ht till further notice. Sfaterial change of programme every cvenin"
JJenetit of Valerian, Tuesday, 29th, if he lives." ^ «•
[ Imve bei'U n (Inuiiatic ciitie myself, iu my time, and I wius ol'toii
siu-pvi.si'd to notice liow much; more I knew about Hamlet than Forrent
liid ; and it gratifies me to observe, uov,; h< ^v nnicli better my bretlu-cM
■of ancient time.s knew liow a broad sword buttle ought to be fought th.. .
tlie gladiators.
; I
Iv. '
gS
C II A r T E II X X VII.
S'!.!;^^^'' 1^ •'"•'' J""" l.as^ a ,i. lit to fe.1 jmou.! of l.in.M-If, and
Kp sat.shr,!, surely ,t is I. Fo. T luu , wntte,. about tho Colismu, , au.l
^' huhators au.l n.a.tyrs, a.ul tl.e lions, an,l yet J.ave never once us, , e
Phnis.. "butd.e.e.l tuniake a Roman holy.lay." J an. the only freo
ulntei.ianof mature age, wl.o has aenanplished this since Bvn.n oH-n-
nated tiio exjacsxion. " "^
Butchered to make a lion.a.i holy.lay Konnds well fortlio first soveuteeii
or eigh eon Inn.drcxl thousand tinu-s ,a.e sees it in print, la.t after that't
l.e,,astogn>wt,reso,nr 1 find it in all the hooks concernins Rome-
nd .ore la erly ,t ren.nids me of Ju.lge ( mver. Oliver was" a youi.g
ay ,. fresh fro.., the schools, who had gone out to the oose.-ts of Nevada
o hog.n hfe. H .found that co.mtry, and our ways of life, the...,
hose earl d,^-s, different fron. lifV, in New England or Paris. Bu^ he
rut on „uollen shut and strapped a navy revolver to his person, took
to the ..acoii a,: hoa„s of the country, and dotermine.l to di in Nevada
I Nevada di, Oliver accepte.1 the situation so completelv that
although he muse hase sorrowed over manv of his t.^ials, he^ never
comidamed-that is, lie never complained hut once. He, tw.> others, a.ul
nyself, started t«, the new silve.' n.ines in the Hund.oldt mountainsLhe
to be Probate Judge of Humboldt county, and we to mine. T e
distance w,is two iiund.-ed miles. It was dead of wi..te.-. We b- u-r^t a
wo-horse waggon and put eighteen huixl.vd pounds of bacon, flo.u , beans,
blastnig-powder, picks and shovels i,i it ; we bought two soirv- ookirg
Mexican " plugs " with the hair turn,..l the wrong way and more coinert
on their bodie.s than there are on the niosque of Omar; we hitched up
and stajied. I was a <lieadful trip. But Oliver did not complain Tl.'e
horses dragged the wagon two miles from town and then ga^•e out Then
wo three pushed the wagon seven miles, and Oliver moved ahe'ul md
ladled the ho..ses after him by the bits. We co...plaine.l, but Oliver did .
n-^t. n.e ground was frozen, ami it froze our backs ^ l.ile we slent • the
^vmd su;ei,t across our f^.cos and f,-oze our noses. Oliver did nit Com-
plain live days of pushing the w ,gon by day a. id freezing by night
-nghtusto tl.e badpa..t of the jou..ney-The Forty Mile Deieitror
!<■ .mit A.nerican Desert, If yoa please. Still, this n.ildest-nia.n.e.-ed
i..au ihatevor wa.s, had nut complained. We started acToss at ei-d.t in
tl • "lornmg, pushing through sand that had no bottom; toiliii" afl day
^
■ i
17«i
THK lNr*()MI'I.ArNIN(l MAX.
:
lit ',
Ion;,' by tlm wict-ks of ii tlioti-aiid waj^oiiM, tlio skeletons often tlioiiMuiitl
oxen ; hy wii^'on- tires enoiiL ' to lioop the \Viisliin:,'ton Monument to tli.>
top, iind ox-chains enoii<,'li to jjinlle Long Island; hy hnniim graves:
with our throats parched always, with thirst; lips bleeding from the
alkali dust; hungry, perspiring, and very, very weary so weary that
when we dropped in the sand every Hfty yards to rest the horses, we
oould hardly keep from going to sleeji no complaints from Oliver: none
the next morning at tliree o'clock, when avo got across, tin-d to death.
Awakened two or three nights afterward at midnight, in a nanow canuti,
by the snow falling on our faces, and appalled at the imminent danger of
being "Huowed in," we harnessed up and [.ushed on till eight in the
uiorning, passed the " Divide" ,ind knew wo were sa\.'d. No complaints.
Fifteen days of hardship and fatigue brought us to the end of the two
hundred miles, and the Judge had )iot complained. We wondered if
any thing (w/A/ exas])erat- him We built a Hundtoldt house, [t is
done in this way. Vou dig a .sipiare in the .steep base of the mountain,
and set np two uprights and tyj* them with two joists. Then you stretch
a great sheet of "cotton domestic" from the point where the joists join
the liilkside down over the joists to the ground ; this makes the roof and
the front of the mansion ; the sides anfl back are tlie dirt walls your dig-
ging has left. A chimney is easily made by turning up one corner of
the roof. Oliver was sitting alone in this di.snial den. one night, by a
sage-brush fire, writing i)oetry ; he was very fond of digging poetry out
of himself— or bla.st it out when it came hard. He heard an animal's
footste]).s close to the roof; a stone or two and some dirt came through
and fell by him. He grew unea.sy and said '-Hi I— clear out from there,
can't you !" -from time to time, but by antl by lie fell asleep where la'
sat, and pretty soon a mule fell down the chinniey '. The tire flew in
every direction, and Oliver went over l>ackward.s! .\bout tsju nights
after that, he I'ecovered contitlence enough to go to wi-iting jioetrv again.
Again he dozed oti" to sleeji, and again a nuile fell down the ciiinme-,.
Tliis, time, about half of that side of the house came in with the mule.
Strnggling to get up, the mule kicktMl the candle out and siua.shed most
of the kitchen furniture, and raised considerable dust. These violent
awakenings mu.st have b;;3n annoying to Oliver, but he m^ver comidained.
He movwl to a mansion on tlie opposite sid- of tht; canon, b-cmse he
had noticed the nnile.s did not go there. One night aijout eight o'clock
he was endeavoring to linisli his poam, when a stone rolled in —then a
hoof appeared below the canvas -then ]»art of a cow — the after [lart.
He leaned b:ick in dreail, anil shouted " Hojy ! hooy ! get out of this :"
and tlio cow strugi^ed manfully— lost ground steadily— dirt and dust
streamed down, and bel\)re Oliver could get widl away, the entire cow
crashed through on to the table and mad- a shai)eless wreck of every
thing 1
Then, for the first time in his life, I think, 01i\e
said :
" T/iis thing it growbuj 7no)io(o)ioi'.s .'"
ompkined. Ht
TIIK t N('OMI'I,AINI\(| MAN.
177
But u.> liave tiikt-u it out of this .^uU].. ffe 1ms i,.„v.'u.,l ,. • .. i
tl'^'v luive no idea of a sarcasm -iPatnies n.ntn- Hu.sj.eofc-
"MlZfAll'ei^V" ''^ ''''-'' ^^*""'- ^^"'■'""- ^^'- ^'^'^to,. aslcs:
A stare from the gui.le. •• No- - thuu-s,,,,' v.-ar l.^fore he is horn "
Uen Hu Ly>;i,tiau obelisk. A,,ain: •• Mid.ael Au<.:io' •' "
Oh, ...« ,ne., gent.elme. ! Zi. is ^., n..,„san' year before ho is
He grows so tiv 1 of that iniceasi
12
u,uvni"stioii souiotiines, that Le d
rears
17S
THK «0.\[A\ (iliDi:.
m.:
to sliow us unytliiiig at all. TIip wwtch Iium tried all the ways lie can
think of to make us compieheud that Michael An«ielo is only resjionsible
for the creation of a jxiH of the world, but somehow he has U(jt
succeeded ytt. IJelief for overtasked eyes and ])rain from study and
jsight-seeiuf,' is necessary, or we shall become idiotic sure en'ou<,di.
Tlierefore this jj,iiide must continue to suifer. If he does not enjov it,
so much the wor.se for him. We do.
In this place I may as well jot down a chapter concerning those
ueoessai'y nuisnnces, European giiides. Many a man has wished in hi-
heart he cor.ld do witliout his guide; l)ut knowing he could not, ]ia->
Avished he could get some amusement out of him as a remuneration tor
tlio affliction of his society. We accomplished this lattei' matter, and if
our experience can be made useful to others they are welcome to it.
Guides know about enough English to tangle everything up so that ii
man cnn make neither head or tail of it. They know their story liy
lieart— the hist(jry of every statue, painting, cathedral or other wondeV
tliey show yen. They know it and tell it as a parrot woidd — and if you
interrupt, and throw them off; the track, they ha\e to go back and begin
over again. All their lives long, they are employed in showing strange
things to foreigners and listening to their burst's of admiration. It is
human nature to take delight in exciting admiration. It is whar
j»r ij^ijits children to say "smart" things, and do absurd ones, and in otliei'
Avays "show off" when company is present. It is what makes go.ssips
timi out in rain and storm to go and be the lirst to tell a startling' bit of
news. Think, then, what a passion it becomes with a guide, who.sc
privilege it is, every day, to show to strangers wonders that'throw them
into perfect ecstasies of admiration '. He gets so that he could not by
any possibility live in tx soberer atmosphere. After we discovered this.
we Jienn' went into ecstasies any more — we never showed anv but
impa.ssible faces and stupid indifference in the presence of the su])iimest
wonders a guide had to display. We had found their weak jjoint. We
have made gooil use of it ever since. We have made some of thos.-
IHJople savage, at times, but we have never lost our own serenitv.
The doctor asks the questions, generally, because he can keep his
countenance, and look more like an ins[iired idiot, and throw mor;^
imbecility into the tone of his \oice than any man thdt lives. It comes
uatuial to him.
The grades in Genoa are delighted to secure an American i)arty,
hcTause Anioricaus so much wonder, and ileal so nuich in sentiment and
emotion before any relic of Columbus. Our givide there fidgeted about
as if he had .swallowed a spring mattrass. He was full of animation
full of ini2)atience. He said :
" Come wis me, gonteelmen I — come I T show you ze letter writiny
by C'hristopher Colombo I — write it himself! — write it wis his own
hand ! — cojue !"
He took US to the munici{>al palace. After much impres.sive fumbling
of keys and ojiening of locks, the stiiined and aged document was spread
(MI'OTKNT Ql'KSTION.S.
170
before ii.s. Th« gnUh-'s eyes wparklec
the piiroliiiieiit witli Iiis liiic-er:
"Wliat I tfl] vdii. geuteelmeii : Is it
CUiristoi.her <'ul(jiii1,u I— write it liiin.self r'
We looked iiulifiereiit— micoiiceniecl
He iliincod a bout iis and tiqiped
not «u ? Hee! hand\ ritin"-
Tlie doctor examined th
-Tlien lie said,
.lociunent veiy .leliberately. during a painful i.ause-
without any sliow oi' intereist ■
.ho^r^'^rr-'''''''-^'''' ''■' ^"'^ ^''^' ^^"'^^^'^'^ "^'■'- ^'f ^^- i-v
"Cliristopher Cok.mbo ! ze-i'eat Cl.ristopJier Colombo'"
AnotJier deliberate examination.
"Ah — did lie write it liimself, or — or how '"
Then rlie doctor laid the douunient down and said •
write\'SLtli::;;T,', '■'■■'' '''■'■''"''■ ■'>-'""rt'™>™™..i,i,i,„„.,„„,,
"But zi.s is ze ,i;i-eat ('liristo-— "
"Idonjcan-whuitis: It's the worst writing I ever saw. Now
you musn t think you can nnpose on us because we ar(, stranytn-s We
are not tools, by a .reat deal. If j-ou liave .i^ot any specimen of good
pennianship of real men t, trot tlie.n out l-and if you liaven't, drive C"'
We drove uu. I he guide was considerably shaken up, but he maile
one more ^ enture. He had sometliiug which he thought Iv'oukl overcome
U.S. lie said :
" Ah, genteelmen, you come wis me ! I show you beautiful ()
ma^nhcent aist ('hnstopher Colombo !-spleiidid. grid, n::g;Snt '
He brought us before the beautiful bust-for it was beautiful-and
sprang back and struck an attitude :
!' ^^^';'.l;>«k gonto.lmen .'-beautiful, grand,-bust Christopher Colombot
—beautiful bust, bL^autiful pedestal !"
TJie doctor put up his eye-glass-procured for such occasions :
Ah— What did you say this gentleman's name was T'
1^ Christopher Colombo 1— ze great (;hristo]jher Colombo '"
did Ifdo *'''"' ^ ■''^"^"'•"~-*^^^ g'-^^t Christopher Colombo. Well, what
" Discover America :— discover America, ( )lj, ze devil '"
_ " Discover America. No-that statement will hardly wa,sh. We are
just from America ourselves. We heard nothing about it. r'hristopher
Oolombo- pleasant name— is— is he dead ?" nnscopnei
" Oh, corpo di IJa-jcho I— three hundred year '"
"What <lidhe dieof!"
" I do not know !— I cannot tell."
" Small-jK)^, think"
;a do not know, genteelmen !-I do not know lohat he die of i"
Measles, likely ?
" May l)e-may be-I do not know— I think he die of sometliings."
^'A
rtflH
■•■«??■
■1.
180
t.ABOR LOST.
" Parents living ?"
" Ini-j)osseeble I"
" Ah — wliicli is the bust and which is tlie pedtt.tal I"
" Santa Maria ! — zis ze bust '. — zih ze i)edestal !"
" All, I see, I see — happy combination — very happy combination,
indeed. ^ Is — is this the first time this gentleman was ever on a l)ust?"
That joke was lost on the foreigner — guides can not master the subtle-
ties of the American joke.
We have made it interesting for this Roman guide. Yesterday we
si)ent three or four hours in the Vatican, again, that wonderful world of
curiosities. We came very near expressing interest, sometimes— oven
admiration— it was very hard to keep from' it. We succeeded though.
Nobody else ever did, in the Vatican museums. The guide was
bewildered--non-plused. He walked his legs olJ", nearly, hunting up
extraordinary things, and exhausted all his ingenuity on us, b\it it"wa.s
a failure ; a\(( never showed any interest in any thing'. He had i-eserved
what he considered to be his greatest wonder till the last— a royal
Egyptian mummy, the be.st preserved in the Avorld, ])erhai>s. He took
us there. He felt so .sure, tliis time, tliat some of his old entlmsiasm
canie back to him :
" 8ee, genteelmeu !— Mummy 1 Mummy 1"
The eye-glass came up as calmly, as deliberately as ever.
" Ah,— Ferguson— M-hat did 1 iniderstand vou' to sav the gentleman's
name was?"
" Name I- -he got no name ! — Mummy : — "Gvptian mummy '"
"Yes, Yes. Born here?" ^ .x
" No : '(hfptian nuimmy ?"
" Ah, just so. Frenchman, 1 presume?"
" No ! — not Frenchman, not Eoman ? — y)orn in Egypta I"
. " Born in Egypta. Never heard of Egypta b?forc. Foreign locality,
likely. Mummy — mummv. How calm he is — how self-i)ossessed Is
ah— is he dead ?" ' i • - • • ,
" Oh, sacre bleu, been dead three thousan' year !"
The doctor turned on him savagely :
" Here, now, what do you mean ))y such conduct as this : Playing us
for C/'hinamon because we are strangers and trying to learn 1 Trying to
impose your vile secondhand carcasses on us ! — thunder and lightniu",
I've ,1 notion to — to — if you've got a nice fresh corpse, fetch him out !—
or by George we'll brain you 1"
We malie it exceedingly interesting for this Frenchman. However,
Jie has paid us back, partly, without knowing it. He came to the hotel
this morning to ask if we were u]), and he endeavored as well as he could
to describe us, .so that the landlord would know which persons he meant.
Hefinished with the casual remark that we were lunatics. The obser-
vation was so innocent and so honest that it amounted to a very good
tiling for a guide to say.
There was one remark (already mentioned,) which never yet has failed
SUBTERHAXEAX MYSTERIES.
181
dse to s V Tlfit \ ^" T '* ""YT' ^^'^'"^ ^^« ^^"" t^"'^!^ «f ""thing
else to sa> . After they Lave exhausted tlieir enthusiasm pointin- out to us
aiicl pnusmg he beauties of some ancient bronze image Ir brokeSl^ed
«tatue, Ave look at it stupidly and in silence for five, ten, fifteen mimrtes
-as long as we can hold out, in fact-and then ask •
" Is— IS lie dead V
That comjuers the serenest of them. It is not Nvhat they are lookin-
for-esi-ecially a new guule. Our Roman Ferguson is tlu/most pa^k^u"
nisuspeoting, ong-suffermg subject we have had vet. We .shall be so n'
part with Inm. We have enjoyed his society verv much. AVe Zt
he has enjoyed ours, but we are harassed with doubts
We Ime hem in the catacombs. It was like going down into a verv
deep cellar, only it was a cellar which hud no end to it. The ninw
passages a.e roughly hewn in the rock, and on each hand as you pa s
along the hollowed shelves are carved out, from three to fourteen deep •
each held a corpse once. There are names, and Christian svmbol.s 2l
piayai.,, o, sc.itauc.s expressive of Caristiau hopes, carved u,>on nmrly
n vk ' ? '"'V'- ^?''' "^ ^^'■''^ '»"l^« "^ t'^« ff™'»^<'. the first
•?t n t" Vr f ;T, r'r";' '^ r^^'' P-secutlon. They crkwled out
iol u tl /?; Z' : r'^ \ ""^'r' '''''' "^ '^"^ '^^y *^'"^' The priest
K.;' V . 1 r''^^'^*^'"^ ^'^"^'^ "'i<i«^- &''-<^"'i'-l foi-.some time while he was
l^mg hunted ; he went out one day, and the soldiery discovere.l and
tt ^""- *" '^'f' r^ ' '^'■^•^^^•«- ^i^'« oi- «i-^ of the eurlv Pope. w 1 o e
vl o reigned about sixteen huiulred years ago-held thkr papal couHs
and advised with tlieir clergy in the bowels of the ear h.^ DiX'
seventeen years-from A. D. 23.^ to A. D. 252-the Topes di it
appear above ground. Four were raised to the gi-eat office lurin ' th^
penod Four years apiece, or thereabouts. It is very sug<.estive of 4
unheal nness of underground graveyards as places of r^^e. oZ
Pope afterward si>ent las entire pontificate in the catacor,bs-ei<dit years
Another was dlsco^-ered in them and murdered in the episcopailair
There was no satisfaction in being a Pope in those days' There were
too many annoyance.s. There are one hundred and sixty catacombs
miaer Eome, each with its maze of narrow passages crossing and reo oS
each other and each passage walled to the tq, with scooped -.raves ts
entire length. A careftd estimate makes the length of the >ass,.r'es of a 1
the catacombs combined foot up nine hundred miles, and theil gnives nu
crc:;;! ""w"" "^^ ''' "^^ --^ *'"""Sl^ an the passaged of all he
catacombs. We were very anxious to do it, and nuide Ihe necessary
.rrangemeuts, but our too limited time obliged us to give u,, the id^?
U^e n, ;: ■■ fTi ?'T'^' 'K' '^'""^^ ^^^^>'""*^^ «^ St. Calliius, uuTi:
the Ui mv» o fet Sebastian. In the various catacombs are small c-hapels
'•udely lunvn m the .stones, and here the early Christians often hel if
religious services by dim, ghostly lights. Think of masa and a, n^!Z
artay tioN\ a ai thu.se tangled caverns under ground '
lu the catacombH were buried St. Cecilia, St. Agues, and .several other
4 ^H*»
^
,:i.^*:,
wM
182
RELIGIOIS KX PLOSION.
of the most celebrated of tlie .saints, .la tlie eataeoml) of St. ("allixtns,
Ht. Bridirot used to remain long hours in holy contemplation, and St!
Charles Borromco -was -wont to .spend Avliole nights in ]irayer tliei'e. It
was also the scene of a very marvelous thing.
" Here tli(! heart of St. I'liilip Xcii was so inllaiiiea witli ilivinc Invc as to lnu'st hi'*
rib.s.
I iind that grave statement in a book j)nblished in New Vork in IS.'iS,
and written by "Rev. William H. Xeligan. LL.l).. 3I.A., Trinity
College, Dul)lin ; ]Vrember of the Areluvological Society of (ri'eat Britain."
Tlierefore, I believe it. Otherwise, I could not. l^ndei' other eii'cum-
s1;ances I should have felt a cuiiosity to know wbat Philij) liad for
dinner.
This author ])nts my credulity oji its metal every now and tlien. He
tells of one St. Jo,sei)h (.ialasanctius wliose house in" Rome he visited ; he
visited only the house— the priest has been dead two hundred years.
He says the Viigin ]\Iary appeared to this saint. Then he continues :
"His toiiguo and Ids Iioart, \vliii-]i were loniul allcr nearly a iciiturv to In; wliolc,
when till' liody was disinterred belbi'e liis canonization, are "still jireserVid in a "la.ss
ease, and atter two c'lituries tlie lieart is still whole. ^\'lien the Freneh troojis eanu!
to Konie, and when I'ius \U. was carried away jirisoner, lilood dropped from it."
To read tliat in a l)ojk written by a monk f:ir b.irl: in the Middle
Ages, would surjirise no one ; it would somul niitnral an(l proper : but
wlien it is seriously stated in the middle of the ninetei'nth centurv, by ii
man of finished education, an LL.D., M.A., and an Archa-ological magnate,
it sounds stningely enough. Still, I would gladly clunige my unbelief
for Neligan's faith, and let him make the conditions as h.ird as he pleased.
Tiu^ old gentleman's undo\d)ting, unquestioning simplicity has a rare
freshness about it in these matter-of-fact raUroading and telegraplung days.
Hear him, concermng the fhurch of Ara ('(cli :
" In the roof of t]ie elanvh, direetlv ahove th(> liigli altar, is engraveil, ' 7,V^/,/.?.
Ctrii hirtaro Allelnia." In the sixth century lionie was visiteil l.v a fearful pesti-
lence. Cregory t!ie (Jrcat urged the people to do penaue^, and a gi'ncral proce.ssiou
was (ornied. It was to procieed from Am Cadi to St. Peter'.s. As it passed before
the mole of Adrian, now the eastle of St. Angelo, the sound of jieavenlv voices was
heard singing (it was Easter morn,) ' Ilfijina <'„'li, ladair : ulhlain': .jnhLqwui
mmmtipovtarc, alleltiin ; irsunr.rif. .sicid dbit ; (illclvi-i f The I'.mtitf, earrying
in his luuids the portrait of the Virgin, (which is over the jiigli altar and'is said to
Jiave been painted by St. Luke,) answered, with the astonished jieopie, ' C/m ;y/v)
■mhifi Ih'iim, nl/rhiia /' At the same time an angel was seen lo put up a sword in a
seabbard, and the pestikiieo ceased on the same day. There arc four circuuistani.-es
which confirm* this miraele : the annual jiroeession which takes plaee in the western
chureli oil tlie least of St. Mark ; the statue of St. Michael, ]ilaeed on the mole of
Adrian, wliieh has since that time been ealh'd the Citstle of St. Angelo : the aiitiphou
Hegina Cieli. which the Catholic chureli sings during paselial time : and the inscriii-
tion ill tlie church."
'■^ The italies are niiiie. — jM. T.
<ti) 1 Hirst liiw
CH APTEK XXYIII.
tpU)M tJ.e sauguiuary sjiorts of the Holy Luiuisitiuu ; tlio slau-iitt;r
of tlie Coliseum ; the (li.snial t(jinb.s of the (.'atacnr.uhs, ] naturally
puss to the pictnre8(|ue lioirors of the (Japuehiii Convent. We stoi.ped
a moment hi a small chapel in the church to admire u jiicturc; of St
Michael vanquishing satan— a picture that is so l)eautifui that J can not
l.ut think It belongs to the reviled •' L','Hu!mtuce," notwithstanding T
iiehin-e they told us one of the ancient old masters jiainted it— and then
we descended into the vast vault underneath.
Here was a spectacle for sensitive ma-ves ! Evidentlv the old mastej-s
Iiad been at work in this place. There were six divisions in the apart
inent, and each division was ornamented with a style of decoration
])eculiar to itself— and these decorations were in ever'v instance formeil
of human bones I There were shapely arches, built"^ wholly of thi"li
bones; there were startling i)yramids, built Avhollv of grinn'iiig skulls •
there were (piaint architectural structures of various kinds, built of sliiii
bones and the bones of the arm : on the wall were elab(av.le fres-oes
whose curving vines wei'e made of knotted human ^vrtebra- ; whose
ilehcate tendrils were made of sinews and tendons ; whose flowei-s were
foi'med of knee-cai.s and t(jA-u;,il.s. Every lasting portion of the human
Irame was rei)reHented in tlier,e intricate designs (thev were by 3IicliaeI
Angelo, I think,) and there was a careful finish about the work, and an
attention to details that l)etrayed the artist's love of his labors as well as
ins schooled ability. I asked the g(jod-iiatured monk who accompanied
us. who dal this t And he said, '• [|> d:a it"— meaning himself and his
aethren up stairs. I could st-e that the old friar took a high pridi; in
Ins curious .show. We made hiu; t-dkative by exhibiting an 'interest we
never betrayed to guides.
" Who were these peoph f
"We — up stairs— Monks of *:h,' .(.'ai)uchiu order — mv brethren."
"How many departed ;,Monks were recniii'ed to ui'.holster these .si-
]iarlorsf'
" These are the bones of four Thousand."
It took a long tinK- to get enough V
" Many, many centuries."
" Their different parts are well si.'j.arated— skulls iji one room, legs iii
another, ribs in mother— there would ))e stirring times l-ere foi' a wliile
A f'^
■MP
18+
LK(iKXU OV BHOTHER THOMAS.
if the last tnuiii) slioiild blow. Some of the l)ret]irai might i-et liokl of
tlie wrong leg, in the confu.siou, and the wrong skull, and find them.selve.s
'limping, and looking through eye.s that were wider aj)art or clo.ser together
than th.n- were iiwed to. You can not tell any of these ].artie.s apart 1
mijipose r ' '
" Oh, yes, I know many of them."
He put his linger on a skidl. " This was Brother Anselmo^ (h-ad
tliree hundi-ed year-s— a good man."
lie touchel another. "This was Brother Alexander— dead two
hundred and eighty years. This was 15rother (.'arlo-flead about as
long."
Then he took up a skull and held it in his hand, and looked reflectivelv
iijton it, after the manner of the grave-digger when he discourses of
^ orick.
•' This," he said, " was Brother Thomas. He was a voung i)rince, the-
scion of a proud house that traced its lineage back to the grand old days
of Rome well nigh two thousand years ago. He loved beneath his e.state.
His family persecuted him ; persecuted the girl, as well. They drove
her fi'om Borne ; he followed ; he sought her far and wide ; he found no
trace of her. He came back aiul offered his broken heart at our altar
and his weary life to the service of God. But look you. Shoi-tly his
father died, and likewise his mother. The girl returned, nyoicing. " She
sought evervwhere for him whose eyes h;id used to look tenderly into
hers out of this poor skidl, but she could not find him. At last, in this
coarse garb we wear, slie recognized him in the street. He knew her.
It was too late. He fell where he stood. They took him up and brouglit
liim here. He never spoke afterward. With'in the week he died. You
can see the color of his hair~i\xded, somewhat— by this thin shred that
clings still to tlie temple. " This," (taking up a thigh bone,) " was his.
I'lie veins of this leaf in the decorations over your head, were his tinyei-
joints, a hundred and fifty yeai-s ago." ' '^
This l)nsiness-like way of illustrating a touching story of the heart In-
laying the several fragments of the lover before us and naming theni,
was as gi'otesqne a performance, and as ghastly, as any I ever witnessed,'
I hardly knew whether to smile or shudder. There are nerves ami
inuscles in our frames who.se functions and whose methods of working
it seems a sort of sacrilege to describe by cold physiological names and
surgical technicalities, and the monk's talk suggested to me something of
this kind. Fancy a surgeon, with his nipi>ers lifting tendons, muscles
and such tilings into view, out of the complex machinery of a cori^se.
and observing. " Now this little nerve quivers— the vibration is imparted
to this muscle— from here it is passed to tli'is fibrous substance ; h.^re its
ingredients are separated by the chemical action of the blood— one part
goes to the heart and thrills it with what is popularly tei-med emotion,
another part follows this nerve to the brain and communicates intelli-
gence of a startling character — the thii-d part glides along this passage
and touches the .spring connected witb the fluid receptacles that lie ni
THK <!KKAT VATICAN" MCSKl-.M.
185«
tlierearoftlie eye. Thus, l.y this siiapk* and l.uautiful nrocess, the
party is informed that his inotlier is dead, and lie weeps." HoriiMe '
_I asked the monk if all the brethren up stairs exi.ected to i)e ijut in
this place wlieii they died. He answered (,uietly :
" We must all lie here at last."
, iM'o what one can accustom liimself to.--The reflection that he must
some day he taken apart like an en-ine or a clock, or like a house whose
owner is gone, and worked up into arches and pyramids and hideous
Irescoes, did not distress this monk in the least. ' I thought he tveu
looked as if he were thinking, with conii)lacent vanity, that his own
sku 1 would look well on top of the hen]), and his own 'rihs add a chaim
to the frescoes which jiossihly they lacked v.t present.
Here and there, in ornamental alcoves, stretclied upon beds of bones
lay <lead and dried-uj) monks, with lank frames dressed in the black
robes one sees ordinarily upon priests. We examined one closely The
skinny hands were clasped ui)on the breast ; two lustreless tufts of haii-
stuck to the skull ; the skin was l)iown and sunken ; it stretched tiglitlv
over the cheek bones and made tliem stand out sharply ; tlie crisp dead
eyes were deep in the sockets ; the nostrils were i^aiiifullv prominent
the end of the nose being gone ; the lips had shriveled away from the
yellow teeth ; and brought down to us through the circlin- year« ard
petrihed there, was a weird laugh a full centuiy old ! ° - '
_ It was the jolliest laugh, but yet the moJt dreadful, that one can
imagine. Surely, I thought, it must have been a most extraordinary
,loke this veteran produced with, liis latest breatli. that he lias not .^ot
done laughing at it yet. At this moment I saw that the old instinct was
strong upon the boys, and T said we had better hurry to St. Peter's
They were trying to keep from asking. " Ts—is he dead V
It makes me dizzy to think of the Vatican— of its wilderness of
statues, paintings, and curiosities of every de,scrii)tion and every a.^e
I lie " old masters" (especially in sculpture), fairlv swarm thei'o. I t^u.
not write about the Vatican. I think I shall never remember anvthino-
1 saw there distinctly but the mummies, and the Transtiguration, ))v
Kaphael, and .some other things it is not necessary to mention now I
shall remember the Tran.stiguration partly because it was placed in a room
almost by itself; partly because it is acknowledged by all to be the tirst
oil painting ill the world; and partly because it was wonderfully beau-
titul. The colors are fresh and rich, the " ex])ression," I am told is
hue, the "feeling" is lively, the "tone" is good, the "depth" is profound,
and the width is a!>out four and- a half feet, I should judge. It is a
picture that really liolds one's attenti.jii; its beauty is fa.scinatin<r It is
hue enough to be a llencmmnce. A remark I niade a while ago^sm^crests
a thouglit— and a hope. Is it not possible that the rea,son I tiiKfluch
ciiiirms m this picture is because it is out of the crazy chaos of the
galleries? It some of the othei-s were set apart, miglit they not be
benutiful ? If this were .set iu the midst oi the tempest of pictures one
tmds in the vast galleries of the Roman palaces, would I think it so
h\
Hi
,.* 'ft
! it.''
186
AUTIST SINS »)1' OMISSION.
i.
I
t\
" .1
haiHlsome? If, up tu tliifs tiuu', T liad seen only oiio " old inast;)r" in
eadi inihicp, instead of acres ami acres of -walls and ceilings fairly
pajierod Avitli tlieni, might I not liavc a more civilized opinion of tlic old
masters than I have now? I think so. When I was a school hoy and
was to have a new knife. T could not make up my mind as to whicli was
the prettiest in the sliow-case, and I did not tliink any of them weiv.
])articularly p)-otty; and so I chose with a heavy heart. But when I
looked at my purchase, at liome, where no glittering blades came into
coinjtetitiou with it, I was astonished to see how handsome it was. To
this day my new hats. look better out of the sho«> than they did in it
with other new hats. It begins to dawn upon me, now, that possibly,
wliat I Iiave been taking for uniform ugliness in the gallcrii-,-, may be
uniform beauty after all. J Iionestly ho)>e it is, to othei'S, luit certainly
it is not to nu\ Perhaiis tlie i'<'ason I used to enjoy gt)ing to tlm
Aciuh'my of Fine Arts in New York was because there were but a few
hundred paintings in it, and it did not surfeit me to g(j througli tiie list.
I sujipose the Academy was bacon and beans in the Forty-Mile Desert,
a;ul a European galleiy is a. staVu diiuier of thiiieen courses. ( )ne leaves
Jio sign after him of the one dish, but tlie thirteen frigliten awav jiis
ajjpetite and give liim no satisfaction.
There is one thing I am certain of, though. With all the .^Nliclnuil
Angelos, the .Rai)ha(?ls, the (luidos and the other old masters, tI»o
sublime history of Jlonu^ remains un])ainted I They painted Virgins
enough, and ])opes enough, and saintly scarecrows enougli, to people
Paradi.-:e, almost, and these things a.re all they did paint. " Noro
liddliiig o'er burning Uome," the assassination of ( 'a-sar, tlie stirring
spectacle of a hundred thousand pecjple bending lyi,-ward with rapt
interest, in the Coliseum, to see two skilfid gladiators hacking away
each others' lives, a tiger springing upon a kneeling martyr— tlies..' and a
thoutiand other matters wliich we read of with a, living interest, nuist be
sought for only in Iwoks — not among the rubbish left by the old mastei-s
—who are no more, I have tlic satisfaction of inft)rming the pul)lic.
Tliey did i)aint, and tliey did carve in marble, one iiistorical sceni>,
and one only (of any g)'eat historical conse(pience). And what ^\■as it,
an<I why did tliey choose it, particularly / It was the Rape of the
Sabines, and they chose it for the legs and busts.
1 like to look at statues, however, and I like to look at pictr^res, also
—even of monks looking up in sacred ecstasy, and monks looking down
in meditation, and monks skirmishing for something to eat — and therefore I
droji ill nature to thaidc the pajial govennnent for so jealously gunrding
and so industriously gathering iij) these things ; and i'or perniitting me,
a stranger and not an entirely friendly one, to roam at will and unmo-
lested anuHig them, chaiging nie nothing, and only requi-ing that 1 .shall
liehave myself simply as well as I ought to behave in any other man's
house. I thank the holy fatliei- I'ight heartily, and I wish him long life
and jilentv (if lianiiiuess,
Tlie Popes have long been the i:atrons and i)reservers of art, just as
I'Al'Ar. FH' I XTION OF ART.
1S7
■nur new, i)ractic!il Republic is tlio ,mvimva<if',v and uplioldtn-of mecliaiiics.
In tlicir Vatican is stored up all tliat is c-nrious and Ix-autiful in art ; ia
our Patent Office is hoarded all tliat is curious or useful in nieclianicH.
When a man invents a new style of liorse-oollar or discovers a new and
superior nu^thod of teleyraphiuK, our -^'ovtu'nnient issues a patent to liiin
that IS worth a fortune ; when a man di<rs up an ancii^nt statue in the
( rtinpa,;,ma, tlie Poj.e jL^ives him a fortune in ><old coin. We can make
somethmj;- of a yuess at a man's character hv the style of nose he carries
<jn his face. The Vatican and tlie Patent <Mce are governmental noses
and they hear a <leal of character about them. '
The n-uide sliowed us a colossal statue of Jupiter, in tJie Vatican,'
which lie said looked so dama.ired and rusty— so like the (ioil of tlie
Vagabonds— l)ecause it had l)ut recently been dug up in the f!ami)agiia.
He asked how much we suppos(Ml this'jupiter was worth ( I repfied
witJi intelligent promptness, that lie was probably woi-th about four
dollars-may he four and a half. "A. hundrecr thousand d,, liars '"
Ferguson said. Ferguson said further, that the Pope permits no ancient
work of this kind to leave his (hjininions. He appoints a commission to
examine discoverit.'S like this and report upon the value : then tlie Pope
pays the discoverer one-half of that assesso.l value and takes the statue,
He said this Jupiter was dug from a field which had just been bought
tor tliirty-si.v thousand dollars, so the first crop was a 'good one for the
new tanner. Tdo not know whether Ferguson alwavs 'tells the truth or
not, but I suppose he does. I know that an exorbitant export duty is
exacted upon all pictures painted ])y the old masters, in order to discour-
age the sale of those in the ])rivate collections. I am satisfied, also
that genuine old masters hardly exist at all. in America, because the
cheai.pst and most insignificant of them are valued at the price of a fine
farm. I proposed to buy a small trifle of a Raphael, myself, but tho
price iA It was eighty thousand dollars, the exjiort duty Avould have
made it considerably over a Inmdred, and so I studied on' it awhile and
.oncluded not to take it. ?t;^.
I wish hf-re to mention a; inscription T have seen, befo)-e I forget it:
''Glory to Crod in the higl,-st, peace ou earth to jikn of (iooD^wiLLl"
rn ""* ^.''"'* scripture, but it is sound (Utholic and liuman nature.
_ This IS m letters of gold around the ai)sis of a Mosaic ca-oup .at the
side of the,w(fe .smifa church of St. Joliii Later, n, the^Mother and
-Mistress of all the Catholic churches of the worl.l. Tlie groui) rei)i-e-
sents the Saviour, St. Peter, Pope Leo, St. Silvester, donstantine and
(.iiarlemagne. Peter is giving the paUhna to the Pope, and a standard
to t harlemagne. The Saviour is giving the keys to St. Silvester, and a
standard to Oonstantine. No i)rayer is offered to the Saviour, who seems
to be of httle importance any where in Rome ; but an inscription below
say.s, •• Blei,-ml Fefer, ijli-e life to Pope Leo aadvirfory to King VharUs.\
It does not say " Intcrr.eilfi for iia, through th" Sa i-Mu-, witls the Father'
for this boon," but "Blessed Peter, (^iVe'i^ us."
Tn all seriousness—without meaning to be fri^ < 'Ions— without meaning
(Vi&ii
'1.
^■|1"
t
iri-litfiil
188
It* •'•I'
\r
;.i
IMI'KOVKD SCHU'TIRK.
to bo nreveront, an.l more tlmu all. without uivnuln^r to W bla.Hj.he.nons
-Istutoasmy simple derJuetio., tVom ti.e thin^^s J Invo s. J a.ul t h.:
*^T'7;/ ^!T/"trV^'''/^;? ?:''-^ Porso„a.e.s rank tlu.s in Ken. ;
c."'^ i '^Y*^*^"^'"^ (^.l"-otl.erwis. tlie Vii-iu Mary.
•Second — The Deity. -^
Third- Vetw.
^!':'"':'''-^«""e J^^'flve or Hfteei, canonized Popes and n.artvrs.
/',./ /.--Jesus ( hnst the Saviour-(but always as an infant in arn.s.)
I Diny be wrong ,n this- my „d-n.ent rrrs often, just as is the case
with other n.en's but it h n.y ,indf,Mnei.t, U- it good or bad.
uJn T''l '"«"*^'^ .something that .seems curious t., me. There
rrT" wf" < '."••^•^'-" »' Rome, and no "Churches of the lo v
about a fcn,rtli of them .seemed to bo named for the Madonna and St.
mei. rhere are so many named for Mar. that tlun have to beditin-
gULshed by all sorts of affixes, if I understand the n.atter rightly ' 1 en
we have churches of St. Louis ; St. Augustine ; St. Agnes ; St. Calixt^^s
St Lorenzo m Lucina ; St. .Lorenzo in Damaso f St (V.-ilia^ St
mSur'Vi*- ^"^^ ^t' ""'■ ''''^^''^'•"-' «t- J^ominico and a
multitmle of lesser sar.^. who.se names are not familiar in the worl.l
WtZ ""'f ' r' '"^ '^ *^" ^''^^ ""^ '^'' ^'^"-^-^' — - -I'l of
Holy alLr ''"""^ ^"' '^*' '^"'■'"'"' "''^ *''^^ ''^^^^''- ^-^^^ t'"'
Day after day aiul ri^riit after night we have wandered amon.^ the
cnnnbhng wonders of Kome ; day after day and night after ^ To
a e led upon the dust and decay of fivc-and-twenty centurie.s ha^•e
brooded over them by day and drean.t of thenx by niglit till son.etunes
.riTabl'e ;r "'"^ awayourseh-es, and growing defaced an.l cornerl S
tuitu •'* '"7 ?^"''"* ^ ^'^" '^ l^'-^>' *° «'^'^»^ antiquary and be patched
vandals to scribble their names on forever and forev.n-more
J3ut the surest way to stop writing about Rome is to stop. I wished
to write a real " gxude-book" chapter on this fascinating city, but I coul
:"* t ''' ^r'^""' ^ '-•« ^'^' '^'1 tl- tin- like a boy in a^andylsho, -- h I
hopelessly for a hundred pages of manuscript without knowing where to
commence. I wil not commence at all.' Our passports Inive bee
examined. We will go to Na])les.
ciiai>tj:k XXIX.
X 1 a,s iH-tu lu-iv s,.ven,l .Inys m.hI vvill ..Mnain sev.u.H more We that
ca.ne hy ,.ul froia Konu- l.ave escaped this nusfortnne. )f comse Ti
...ue ,s alhnved to ^o ou hoar.1 the ship, or cu.no ashore fVou> h. She is
=t l-nsun, now. I'he pass.u.g.rs prol.ahly sp.n.l the h.ng, I azin- dav«
ook.n. out fro>a u>u er the au-mngs at Vesul in:; and the b^autl^'l city-
ana m sweanny-. Tliink of ten days of tliis sort of pastiiao '-Weuo
out every day .n a boat and request then, to eonio ashore It soothes
them. We ho ten steps fr.nn the ship and tell then, how sp endi 1 e
y.ty IS ; and how mueh batter the hotel fare is liere than any^i^l^tre Z
.u Europe ; and how c.ol it is ; and what frozen contiueu if i erelm
there are ; and wha a time we are havm-^ ..avortin,. about th couTv
and sa.l.ng to the islands in the Bay. This tranquiHzes then. ^
ause
fatigue
ASCENT Ol' \i;sivi(s.
I shall remember our trip to Vesuvius for manv a dav-partlv 1,ecr
... >s s.ght-seem^ ex,.enences, but chiefly on 'account of the fat tme
u the journey. 'J svo or three of t.s had i.een resting ourselves anS
the tranqud and beautiful scenery of the island ot" Jhbeiheen
miles out in the harbor, for two days ; we called it >• rest '' b ft 1 do
not remember now M-h ^he resting consist,.,! of, for when we got ilk
o Naples we had not slept lor forty-eight hours. We were jus' tbo. fto
go to bed early a the evening, and catch up on some of the 'lee, we Id
lost, when we heard o this Vesuvius expedition. There w^fto be ei'^
of us n. the j.arty, and we were to leave Naples at nudnl^ht. We Md
u on.,, provisions for the trip, engaged .arriagas to take 'us to Annunci-
ation, and then moved about the city, ,o kee? awake, till twelve We
got away punctually, and in the course of an hour and a half arrived at
he town 01 Amuincuvtiou Annunciation is the verv last phice n hn the
■sun. In other towns m Italy the people e around . uiiet v •in, wit fZ
you to ask them a ..uestion or do Lni overt act thia' " t'^^a S o
--but m Annunciation they have lost even that fragment of iX cv
they .seize a lady's sha^^ 1 from a chair an,l li.-.=.-l if to he •in d hT^ '
penny ; they open a carriage door, and charge i^U-stVhw'T^^
get out, and charge for it ; they help you to take off a duster-two centt"
'n^
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AN TNLOVKl-Y ('f»M.Mi;XITV.
M
m
bnisli your clotlins aiul make tlieui worse tliiui tliey were befou- two
cents ; smile upon you— two cents ; how, witli a liek-spittle smirk, liat
in liand— two cents ; they volunteer all information, such as that the
mules will airive presently — two cents — warm day, sir — two cents
take you f;)ur hours to make the ascent— two cents. And so they -^o.
They crowd you — infest you — swarm about you, and sweat and snu'll
offensively, and look sneakin<f, and mean, and ol)se(iuious. There is no
office too degrading,' for them to perform, for money. I have had no rp-
l>ortunity to lind out any thing about the upi)er classes by my own obser-
vation, but from what I hear said about them I jiulge that what they
lack in one or two of the bad traits the <'(inaUle have, they make up ii'i
one or two others that are worse. How the people beg I-^many of them
very well dressed, too.
I said I knew nothing against the upper clas.ses by personal observation.
I nuist recall It ! I had forgotten. What I saw tlieir bravest and fairest
do last night, the lowest multitude that could be scraped up out of the
pui'lieus of Christendom would blush to do, I think. They assembled by
hundreds, and even tliousands, in the great Theatre of San'C^arlo, to do-
what ] Why, simply to make fun of an old woman — to deride, to hiss,
to jeer at an actress they once worshipped, but whose beauty is faded
now and whoso voice has lost its former richness. Every body spo':e of
the rare sport there was to b3. They said the theatre wonUfbe cram-
med, because Fi-ezzolini was going to sing. It was said she could not
•sing well, now, but then the people liked to see her, anyhow. And so
we went. And every time the woman sang they hissed and laughed—
the whole mngnilicent house-and as sooii as she left the stage they called
her on again with applause, (^nce or twice she was encored tive and six
times in succession, and received with hisses when she appeared, and dis-
charged with hisses and laughter when she had finished— then instantly
encored and insulted again ! Ami how the high-born knaves enjoyed it':
White-kidded gentlemen and ladies laughed till the tears came, and claj)-
ped their hands in very ecstasy when that unhappy old woman would
come meekly out for the sixth time, with uncomi)laining patience, to
meet a'stornv of his.-iO =, ! It was the cru?lest exhibition — the most wanton,
the most unfeeling. The singer would have conquered an audience of
American rowtlies by her bi-ave, unHinching tranquility (for sh? answered
encore after encore, and smiled and Ijowed pleasantly !i and sang the best
she possibly could, and. went bowing off, through all the jeers and hisses,
without ever losing countenance or tem})L>r :) and surely in any other land
than Italy her sex and her helplessness must have been an ample protec-
tion to her — she could have needed no other. Think what a nuiltitude
of small souls wei-e crowded into that theatre last night. If the manager
could have filled his theatre with Neapolitan souls alone, without the
bodies, he could not have cleared less than ninety* millions of dollars.
What traita of character must a man have to enable him to help three
thnu.sand miscreantH t^o hiss, and jeer, and laugh at one fricruU'ess old
woman, and shamefully humiliate Iier \ He must ha\e oH the vile mean
MONKISH MntAi I.KjS.
191
nuts tJiore are. My ol.servatiuu luM'sundcs n.e (1 do not Hk.. to ventu.v
(.eyond my own personal observation,) tliat the upper classes of Xaj.ies
|K,ssess those traits of cliaracter. Oth.^wise tl.ev n,av he verv .'ood
jK-ople; [cannotsav. ' " . o >^"
'■•'if
ASCENT oy VKisivirs -( ontim kd.
In this city of Naples. tJiev lieli
edest of all tlie rel
ve in and snjiport one of tlie wretcli-
igious iiii])ostures one can Hnd in Italy the
WlCtJ
miraculous
a year the priests
iHluefact.on o the hood of St. Jannarius. , „.,. ._ .,„,,,,
as.sen.hle al the people at the cathedral, and -et out this vial of dotte.l
Noodand let them see it .slowly di.ssolve and l.econie li.p.id-and every
is repeated, wliile the i)rie.sts o'o
lice
Tl
le tirst
day for eight days, this dismaf f _ _ ^.„ ,,^,^
amon- the crowd and collect inonev for' tile ("xhi'hition
day, the l,loo<l li.p-efies in forty-seven minutes-the church is crammed
then, ami time must he allowed the collectors to get around : after that
It Inpielics a little <in.cker and a little .piicker, every dav, as the houses
g.w snialler till on the eighth day, with only a few dozens present to
.see tla^ miracle, it lupiehes m four minutes.
J^uH! ^'"'"'i ''■'''' ^''?;;"'';l^'- ^'T '•' -'•""'' V''>^^>^^^ou, of prie,sts, citizens,
soldiers .sailors, and the high dignitaries of the City Government, one.'
a your, o shave the head of a made-ui. Ma.lonna-a stuHed and painted
image, like a milliners dummy-wlio.se hair miraculously grew and
restored .tself every tM-elve months. They still kept up this shavin-r
proce.ssion as late as four or live years ago. It was a Source of great
Fofit to the cliurdi that posse.s.sed the remarkal.le eth'gv, and the ceremony
of t ,e pnl.lic barbering of her was always carried out with the ...reatcsi
«jlat and di,splay-the more the better, because the more ex.'itement
there was about it the larger the crowds it drew and the heavier the
i-evenues it prodnced-but at last a day came when the ?o|>e and his
servants were unpopular in Naj.les, and the Cfity (iov,.rnment stoppe.l
tlie Madonna s animal show. ' '
There we have two .specimens of tliese Ne*i,olitans-two of the silliest
possible fraiuLs, which half the population religion.sl / and faithfullv
beheved and the other half either l,elieved al.so or else .said nothing about
It, and thus ent hemselves to the support of the imposture. I nm very
well .satished to think the whole population believed in tJione poor, cheai.
miracles~a people who want two cents every time thev bow to von and
wJio alai.se a woman, are capable of it, I think. ^ " '
ASCKNT OK VKSLVIIS— CONTrXLED.
The.se Neapolitansalwaysa.sk four times as mncli money as they intend
to take, but It you "giv., them what they tirst demand, they feel ashamed
ot tliem.selves lor aiming so low, and immediately ask more Wi,"n
money is to be paid and received, there is always some vehement jawing
aiul gesticulating about it. One can not buy and pay for two cent's
it ^ li.
: i^H
^v--
192
AN ITALIAN TRAIT.
worth of clams without trouble and a (jiiarvel. One "course," h\ ii
tAvo-horse carriage, costs a franc— that is law— l)ut the hackmaii' always
demands more, on some i)retence or other, and if he gets it he makes a
new demand.^ It is said that n stranger took a oue-hoi-so carriage for a
comse — tariff, half a franc. He gave the man five francs, by way of
experiment. He demanded more, and received another franc. Again
he demanded more, and got a franc— demanded mon^ and it was refiised.
fie grew vehement— was again refused, and became noisy. The stranger
said, " Well, give me the sever, franos again, and I will see what 1 can
do"— and wheii he got them, he handed the hackmanhalf a franc, and ho
unmexliately asked fur two cents to buy a drink with. It may be thought,
that I am prejudiced. Perhaps 1 am. I would b3 ashamed of myself
if I were not.
ASCKXT OF VKSi;VJLS — CONTINrKD.
Well, as 1 was .saying, we got our mules and horses, after an hoar and
a half of bargaining with tin; population of Annunciation, and starttni
sleepily u]) the mountain, with a vagrant at each mule's tail who pre-
tended to be driving the brute along, but was really holding on and
getting himself dragged up instead. I made slow headway at Hrst, but,
I began to get dissatisfied at the idea of i)aying my minion five trancs to
hold my mule back by the tail and keep him from going uj) the hill,
and so I discharged him. T got along faster then.
We had one magnificent picture of Naples from a higli point on the
mountain side. We saw nothing but the gas lamps of course— two-
thirds of a circle, skirting the great Bay -a necklace of diarr- '^
glinting uj) through the dai-kness from the remote distance— less b"i
than the stars overhead, but more .softly, richly beautiful— and ovet ,..ll
the great city the lights crossed and recrossed each other in many and
many a sparkling line and curve. And back of the town, fur around
and abroad over the miles of level campagna, were scattered rows, and
circles, and clusters of iiglit, all glowing like .so many ffems, and marking
where a .score of villages were sleeping. About this" time, the fellow
who was hanging on to the tail of the hor.se in front of uie and ]>ractising
all sorts of uniKJcessary cruelty u|)on the animal, got kicked some
fourteen rods, and this incident, together with the fairy spectacle of the
lights far in the distance, made me serenely happy, and I mms glad I
started to Vesiivius.
ASCENT OK MOLNT VKSfVUS — COXTINrKD.
This subject will be excellent matter for a chapter, and to-morrow or
next dav T will write it.
CHAPTER XXX
morrow ov
ASCKNT (I!- VE,S(\IIS--(0XTI.\1KI).
K_; sauly dio att<T lucre v seem.' it hnf- fn •.+<-fMi-,,,f . r .1
■night tuvn out u little dim.n^.t]v. To t Xa^K.^^Ts ^'riu'r
-rly ,lawu iron, far up o., tlu- sidcM,f VosuviL. is to soe .^ ot m of
wojuLrfnl beauty. At tl.at .listnnc. its .liu.^v In.iMings JoolJl t t,
m .1 so, rank on rank of balconies, uin.lows an.l ^,ofs^!^ , .i e en7
«J" ves up from .the blue oce.n til] the colossal castle of St." W mo to 1
the grand white pyraniul and ^ave the picture svnunetrv en n s n
completeness. And when its lilies tui.ed to rose 'vhen \ I i
under the sun's first kiss-it was beautiful be^>ml^";i:ii;t m ''''te
nngh wel say, then, " See Naples and die."^ The frame of !,.ic.
colois the lofty islands swimming in a dreamv lia.e in the distance ■ -.t
our end of the city the stately double ..ak of^ Vesu^■ius, ai s ron
»>lack ribs and seams of lava stretching ,lown to the limitless I'vH
campagna-a. green carpet that enchants the eve and leads it and on
pas. clusters of trees, and isolate.l l.ouses, and snowv v 11 . e ; it
shreds out in a fnnge of mist and general vagueness f^.r aw.v ""i " L
"ri:''''"^^ "^ ''" '''-' '' ^---Mhat<me should - ^
Uut do not go within the walls and lo'^k at it in detail. That takes
|nvay some of the romance of the thing. The people are filthy , t h'ir
hnbis, ami this "-kes tilthy sti.ets and breedi diJagreeable ^id, s
slw r" ' rt'"' "'' ' '••^:"">'»ity so pn^udiced against the cholera
.these Zseapohtans are. E„t they have good reason to be. The
liolera genera ly vanquishes a Neapolitan when it seizes him, because
you understand, before the doctor can dig through the dirt and -Vt a ^
;'r;::t:^r;t "^^- ''- """^" -'-'- ^-^^'^ -^ --'-^^ eve.,'iay,^:;;?
The streets are generally about wide enough fo/ one wagon, and how
they do swarm with poople : it is broadway repeated in evT-rv stree in
. veiT court, m every alley : Such masses, suclAhron.s. sucli nud^ ude
ofhunymg, bustling, stru:r^ding humanity : AVe never saw the 1 k o f
^t, hnnlly even m New York, I think. Tl.ere are seldom anv side va k
IfM
SHOT TOWKR DWKLLlN.iS.
:ui(l when tliort) are, tliey lire not uit(-ii m ido tiiougli t<j it;i.ss a inau on
^vitllout caroiuin<jf or. liini. So f voryWody walks in tlie street— and where
the street is wide enough, cairiagcs am forever (hisliing ah)ng. Wliy ji
thousand \Hj]ihi are not nni over and ori]. pled every <lay is a niysteiy
tliat no niiin .an solve.
Hut if there is an eighth wonder in the world, it mvist he the dwelling-
liouses of Naples. I honestly heliexc a good majority of them are li
liundred feet high ! And the solid l.rifk Avails are seven feet throu<,di.
Von go lip nine flights of stairs hefoie you get to the "f.rst" floor. No,
not nine, hut there or thereabouts. There is a little bird-cage of aii
iron railing in front of every wuidow elcai- away iiji, up, up, among the
eternal elouds, where the roof is. and there is always somebody looking
<ait of every window i)eo])l(f of ordinary size looking out from the
first Hoor, p?ople a shade smaller from tin- second, i)eople thai
look a little smaller yet from the third — and froui thence upward they
.gi-ow smaller and smaller by a regulai-ly giaduated diminution, till tlie
folks in the topTucjst wimlows seem moi-e ]ik(> Idrds in an luicommonly
tall martin-box than any thing else. Tjie ptM-spective of one of these
narrow cracks of sti-eets, with its rows of tall houses stretching away till
Ihey come together in the distance like lailway tracks ; its clothes-lines
crossing over at all altitudes and saving their bannered raffredness over
the swarms of peoph^ below ; and the whito-dressed women perched
in balcony railings all the way from the jiaNement up to the heav(>ns
a jieispective like that is really wo'-tli going into Neapolitan details to
see.
ASCKNT UK VF.srVlls
oxriMi;]).
Naples, with its inniiediate suburl)s. contains six hundred and twenty-
tive thousand inhabitants, I)\it 1 am satisfied it covei-s no more ground
than an Anierican city of one Innah'ed au'l fifty thousand. It reached
up into the air infinitely IiighcL- than thi'ce American cities, though, and
there is where the secret of it lies. I will observe here, in passint;', that
the contrasts l)etween oj>uleuceand ]»)vcrty. and magniticence and miserv,
.are more freipient and more sti'iking in Niiplestlian in Paris even. One
iiniKt go to the l^?ois de Boidogne to see fashionable dres.sing, splendid
ecpiipages and stunning liveries, mid to the !'''aul)oiu'g St. Antoiue to see
vice, miseiy. Inniger. rags, din but in thv thoroughfares of Naples
t'.iese things jire all mixed t(jgethcr. Naked boys of nine years and the
fancy-dressed cliildi'en of lu.xury : shreds and tatters, and brilliant
uniforms ; jackass-cai'tsand state carriages : beggars, Pi'inces and Bishops*,
.'Hjstle each other in every street. At si,\ o'clock every evening, all
Naples turns out to di-ive on the Ji'lviere ifi VJunJd, (wluitever that' may
mean ;) and foi- two hours one may stand there and sse the niotliest and
Avorst mixed procession go by that ever eyes beheld. Princes (there are
more Princes than jiolicemen in Naples- -the city is infested with them)
■ Pi'inces -who live up seven fiights of stairs and don't own any princi-
SIRPHININ*; wa(;ks.
195
money on . hackSfi,: f : ^ '\ l^''' '''""^''^ ^^ -i-^^^o. ti:.
with geo.^eous .liVe^;;'" ^^^^ tS j;; "?;r""i ""t«^^ -^'
pi-oeesHion yoes For two I,n„ '. i ' ,' '""^ ''" the f.iiious
poverty ote;ai':;sS;i.""aerti:'ti;r'"'' '"' ^^'""■•^^^ -"«
l>ome serene J.,ppv,Leredlith.'orvi '"■'"'''"^' ""' *'"^'' ■^'"
u. f ';e;-i; jrr^ •;;: r tt;;;-: .;:;,;- ^^f -'-
Au-i then 1 «t^>,ed out'::;s- .;^ ::; z^::i::r^,^r' "V-^;
whoAvus eatin<{ l.is dinner on tl,,. ,.,„.) J ^^'"^♦^'' "^f'' 'i va;,'al)oua
I'unch of ...apes. W en V L d i H '!" """ F''" "' ^''''^^ '->'"' '^
tVuit estahli.l,Lnt (la, In d t u-" .1 ;.:'.;'''' ''^ T" '^'"^'''^ "' ''
;.t two cents a <lay. \.u,l that 1 J. h U ' ^e ^t ^ T ^T T 'i^'^''''>
lost some of n)v enthusi.ix,,, ,.„„ ^!, , . '""'^ ^''^"^''^ ''« >»ve.I, I
.™snatu..4- sillier;: :;r;r;;;rs:'2r^^^
«et six dolla,; and a If a ,,,;,. ^^ 7"" '^f^'V' '"^"t''. I'nnten,
.uets thirteen. To 1 e : win ^^^^^^^^^^ ^ V Y"'f "^■" " ^'"'^^'"'"^ ^^»'"
is, naturally na.kes Id!:: ii: !'',,:! ;'^ljl^^'^'''> '- «- --
nisuffevable. <i'istoLi..t. I i.e air, he puts on am
And, speaking' of wn-es. remind, me of pne^s of .,.■.„(,. n r
Pans you pay twelve dollars a dozen for .fonv , \ 1 e ' 1 j ''•, '"
of ahont as good ,M,aIitv sojl here mv tl.rJ. , "f /'"' yJ'^vo.s ; gluv,^
.^ five and ti. d.lllars apiel'^ ^n:'uZrJZ in^Sj-'t" , T""
r^^ghorn you pay two and a half fn M-n-se W ^""''^ ' }""' ' '"' ^>'
tor a Hrst-class d.vss eoat made l.v ^o 1 i W tt^ • ^ J'^^V'"^ '''^^'"'^
«et_a full .Iress suit tor the s;^ne^H. , ^W 'vJ^iT^T '""
hu«.ne,ss suits at from ten to twentv dollars' and i ] ■ < .„. ''■"'''•^'^'■'^
l_^.
«'i
* (*>,»*.
«<
♦■ *
•^'i'
1!h;
TIIK ISI.A.Mi III- ( APItl.
ASCKNT or VKSi VH .S- -CONTINl Kl>.
Ami thus i\u' v.oiid ;rt'ul Blue ( irottu its suj^^csted to me. It is situatod
oil tlio Island oi" ('aj»ri, tweiity-t%vi» miles from ij^aples. Wo chartered
:i little stoaiiieraud went out thei'c. Of course, the police huarded us iuid
\n\t us through a health examination, and iiKjuired into our jiolitics, helon;
tlioy wouhl let us land. The airs these little insect (.tovernments jtut on are
in the last d'.;u;"'^e lidieulous. They even ]>iit a jtolieemaii on hoai'd of our
i>i)ut t'^ keep an eye on us as lon^ as we wen.' in tlu; Capri dominions. They
thoiiifht we wanted to steal the ^^rotto, I supjiose. It was worth stealing;.
Tlie entrances t > the cave is four feet iiic'li and four feet wide, and is ih
tlie face of a lofty ]ier[iendicular clitl' — the sea-wall. Vou enter in
small hoats — anil a ti<;lit S([ueeze it is, too. You can not <,'w in at ail
v.licu the tide is up. ( )iice within, you tind yourself in an arched cavern
ivijout one hundri.'d and sixty feet lon<::, one hundred and twiMity wid^,
Hud al)oiit seventy high. Jfow deep it is no niau knows. It ;,'oes di/^^vu
to the bottom of the ocean. The waters of this placid suhterranean lake
sire tho briyhtest, loveliest blue that can l)e imagined. They are as
transparent as plate glass, ami their coloring woidd shame the lichest
sky tliat ever bent over Italy. No tint could be more ravishing, mi
lustre more supci-b. Throw a stone into the water, and the myriad of
tinybubliles that are created flash out a brilliant glare like blue theatrical
fires. Dip an oar, ;iud its blade turns to splendid frosted silver, tinted
with blue. Let a man jump in, and instantly he is cased in an armor
more gorgeous than ever kingly ( 'I'usader wore.
Then we went to Ischia, but I had ali-eady lieen to that island and
tired myself to death " resting" a c(jupl(> of days and studying human
villainy, with the landlord of the (rrand .Sentinelle for a model. So we
went to Pi'ocida, and from thence to Pozzuoli, where St. Paul landed
after ht? sailed from Samos. I landed at precisely the same spot where
St. Paul landed, and so did Dan and the others. It was a reinaikal)le
coincidence. St. Paul pi-eached to tliese ]ieople seven days before he
.started to Rome.
LNcro's Piaths. the ruins of IJaia'. the Temjile (.)f Serapis ; ( 'uma-.
where the (Junnvn Sybil inter[ireted the oracles, the lake \gnano, witli
its ancient submerged city, still visible far down in its depths — these
«nd a hundred other j)oints of interest we examined with critical
imbeiility, but the (li'otto of the Dog claimed our chief attention,
Itecause wo had heard and read so much about it. Every body has
written al)out the Grotto del Cani^ and its poisonous vapors, from P!iny
fiown to Smith, and every tourist has held a dog over its floor by the
legs to test the capabilities of tin.' place. The dog dies in a minute and a
half — a chicken instantly. As a general thing, strangers who craw 1 in
there to slee]) do not get up until they are called. And then they don't
either. The stranger that ventures to sleep thei'c takes a perinaiient
conti'act.
I longed to see this yrotto.
I resolved to take a dog and hold
Iiim mysfit ; siirtocit.- Iiini n littl.
niuro iiiid tlicn tini-sii |,i,,
TMK SI M.MIT I!|;A( lli:i>.
tiiiii-
I!);
'""' f'""' ''ill' : Mi(ioc;il<f limiMdii.'
. .n„ , , , ^^ '■''■■"''"•'' 'ill' ,i;it'tt(. at idiout thivi! ill til. •
aitoruuon,M,Mlprna.,Mle,l at unn- t., ,mmI<.. ,1... .x,,..n,M,.Mts
ai' in.iM.rtaiit <li(}i,..,lty piVM-ut,.,! itsHf. \\\. 1,,,,1 „„ ,Ur^. '
iiut l|i)V,.
ASCKNT (,K \KSI \ns ((..NTIM |.;,,.
At tlif Hcnaitajic w
itiiovo tilt! sen
Fdi- tl
i' weiv alM.ur tift....ii or ci-I.tfcii lnii„liv,I t'r.r-t
linijit
uiul tlnis far a portion of tla
if> next two miles tiic road was a mixt
iiiulsonicl lilies it was not; hut
.iwciit liad lircu pretty aliriii t.
lire- .suiiiftiirie.s tlieaseiMit \v;«s
nine, wi^liont faihin
-witl
one cliaraeteiistie it pos.se,s:,(!ii all t
mirly and nnsj.eakal.ly infamous,
"ver an old lava llcnvl-a l.lack
lout nioililleation it
\\'a.s all lUK'oi
npioiui-
It *vas a rongli, narrow trail, and I'd
faiitastie sliajie;
wilderness of I
ocean wlneli was Inmhled into a ti
1 wild ehaos of ruin, desulat
luiisand
tniiiintiiiii.s rent asnnder- -of
ullowy npjieavals, of fui
ion.
lous w
liirlpools
and oarrenness
masses of lilaokness tliat
>f t
ill tl
ilack
.Uuaried and knotted, wrinkled and
mimicked hranel
"-> of ininiatiin-
twisted
U'cs, all interlaced and inin-le.l too-etl,e,- and i
tins turlmlent pan..rania, all this stormv- f:.'.
iin<,' roots, ii-reut v
II tl
uies, .trmd;s
icso weird .sliai
iiess, with its thrill
Mii'gin.i,', furious motion, was
IS stormy, far-stretcjiiiij.- waste of
111,:,' .su^',uvsti\eness of life, of act
ion, of Ixiilii
instant of its maddest riot
at lie,
F
IIIL'
pctrilied '-all , stricken .lead ami cold in t]
'^%
iven ni impotent ra.^e for eveimore
mally we .stood in a level, narrow v
fettered, paralyzed, and left to "•
■iited hy the terrific
liand
march of some old ti
iiliev (a
vall( V that h
le.
o\,er
iii'eri
flimh- -tl
towered tin; two steep ju^aks .,f \
me irruption) and on eith,
10 one that coiit
uns
hundi
<lowu fui
tl
t'sin ins.
TI
le oi
i(^ a.tive volcano — seemed
H^ \\v had to
vdor one thou.saud feet lii-h. and looked al
about ei'
'uiy man to climh. and certainlv
most too straiiil
li-up-aiiii-
man on hi.-t hack. 1
to
'our of these nativ.
I) mule could climl) it v, it|
!' in a sadaii chair, if you wish it, hut
you fall,---is it lik.'lv that
'f eternity, jierl
tl
laps. We left the mules, si
V pirates will eariw you to tlie
suppo.se they wei'c t.i slip .and l.>t.
lis sitio
,vou would ever .stop rullini.- ,' X.n tl
'egan the ascent 1 liave been w:
to six ill the inornii
IL'.
hunks of
Th
ritino- about ,so Ion
arpened cur tini;vr-nail.-
^ve slid back one. It
pumice-stone, and for about ev
I'ath le.1 strai-rht up a ni<;-.v>d swee'p of 1
fifty
to look
or
was so excessively st
sixty steps, and re.st a moment,
very nearly straio-ht up at those al
ef
T
•p that
It twentv ininut(>s
,oo-;e
ool:.
i"y two steps forwa.rd we t
^e. hail to stop, eveiY
> see our comrades, we h.id
iloM-ii at those below. W
ui 1
e stood
love us and very nearlv .sti-ai'-hf,
oi
lioiir and tifteeii minutes to make the tri
I the summit at ia.s't— it had
What
we sa
w there was simply a circular cratei-—
on plea..se- about two hundred feet d
I circular ditch, if
wid(
centre of the -nvat
whose inner M-all was about half a mil
ecp, and four or live hundred ftet
circus rill'; thus f
t' lit circumfereu..-e. In th
ormed, was a torn and r:
:;e(
jit''
jll.l'
IKS
THK ntVIKK.
m
iij.hctviil n '; ,;mIiv.I fr.'t lii^r],. „1I suitwrtl over with .1 sul|,lu.|' ci iiHt of
iiiiiiiv iiiid mmiv • I'l-illiiiiit .111.1 iK'.iutiful mlor. .in.l tlic ditrli iiu<l()sp<i
tlii:; like tli(i mo^t uf n i'jistl»'. or siiimniuled it iih a jittlf river rlocs ;,
littk- isliind, if tlip similr is liKt.-r. Tlie sulpl.ur fojitiuK <>f tli.it island
viis ^M.uly in t! xtivnu- all niin-lcd tu;r,Hhor in tlic ridicst (•..nfiisioi,
WMv ivd, l)lii,>, ',r.nvn. I.lack. y.-llow, wliite- f d(. not knew tliat tliei.-
was a ciAuv, oi .nliado of a rolor, or coiiiLination of colors. iinr«'j.r*'s..iited
- and wlien tlif sun l)iirst tIiroiin;li tli,. morning mists and fir.-d tlii.
tintt-d iiKioK'.iiocmr, it topped iinp»'rial Vesuvius like a jeweled erown !
Tho cmter itself tiie diteli was not m. variej-ated in eoiorinif. lait
yet, ill Its Hoftiie.is. rieliness, and iinpreteiitions eiej,'anee. it wits^iiort-
cli.iniiiii,!,', more faseinatin<r to the eye. Tliere was iiothiii;r " |,„„l" ahont
Its well-tucd :ind well-dressed hiok. Jieaiitiful ! One coidd stand and
lot.k down upon it for a week without •retting tired of it. It )iad tlif
.seiid.lame of a jd.-asaiit meadow, who.se slender -,n'asses and whose velvet\
iuos.ses were frustcd witli a sliiniiij,' du.st. and tinted with pale.st -Meeli
that deepened gradually to the darke.st hue of the oraiij,'e leaf." and
deej.cned yet a.^niii into v'lave.st hrown, then faded into oranje. then into
l)nglit!?st gold, aiul eulminated in the delicate pink of a new-l.lown rose
Where i)ortions of the meadow had sunk, and wher«^ other portions liad
l)pen l)ioken up .ike an ice-floe, the eavernons openings of theone, and tlu-
i-a-ij-ed iii)tuiiied cdoes expo.sed l.y the other, were hung with .1 lace-work
of .soft-tinted crystals of sulpher that changed their deformities into
<juiant shapes and tignres that were full of grace and l)eanty.
The walls of Uie ditch were lirilliant with yellow hanks of sulphnr
Jind with lava and i>umice-stone of many colors. No tire was visil.h'
any where, iuit i^iists of sulphurous .steam issued silentlv and invisihh
from a tliou.sand little cracks and tissui'es in the crater, and were waftel]
to our no.ses with e^ery l.reeze. But .so long as we kept our nostrils
luined III our liandkerchiefs, there was small danger of suffocation.
8i»me .)f th.^ boys thrust long slips of paper down into holes and set
tlieni on fire, and so acadeved the glory of lighting theii* cigars by the
Hiunesof YesnviiiN. and others cooked eggs over fissures in tlfe rocks ami
"were liai)j>y.
'Die view from the summit w(nild have been superb but for the fact
that tlie sun could only pierce tht^ mists at long intervals. Thus the
glimp.seH we !iad oi' the grand panorama below were oidv fitful and
Tinsatisfaptorv.
Tin: DK.SCKNT.
The descent, of the mountain was a labor of onlv four minutes.
Instead of stalking down tlie nigged path we a-scended, we oho.se one
which was l)ed<led knee-deep in loose asJies, and ploughed our wav with
prodigious strides tliat would almost have shamed the peiformance of
mm of the seven-league boots.
The VesuYius of to-day is a very poor affair compared to the miohtv
A rowKiuti, TH.vmriox.
19'.»
liei' cniHt of
toll iiu'ldspd
•iver (Iocs ,i
tliiit isliind
st cimfiisidii
tlldt tlH'll-
r('iirt's<Mit('(I
1 fired tlii-,
dcd ci'own !
)i()riii:4:. '"It
wMs mow
loud" llluMU
I stniid iiiid
It )iad tilt'
loHC selvety
lidcst j^ivfii
I' leaf, and
', tlini intd
l>lown rose,
oi'tions Jiad
no, and the
a lac't'-work
inities into
ut' .sul|)]iin-
was visiltif
(1 invisilil\
ere wafted
tuv nostrilN
it ion.
le.s and set
ars by tlu-
; rof'ks and
)v tlie fact
Tims the
titfid and
It i» «,iul timt (luiini- ,„„. of til,, jji I ,.ini.ti..i,s „f V,.Miii,„ i,
13 rir r''\"' '''■■"« > '■•"». « !l...u»„.l fa ,1
.111, lt»^,,at j,.t»„l K„„,k,. ,„„l stvui,. iiMciiulwl lllhev liiilfK towani ti„.
uecK» ol Klii|.« ,eteu liun.lr,,! :ii,<l liftv i., ca „, «■„ ■ 1 „i|| ,.1,,. ,i„.
«t".,v!,V "IVlf ' " '' '" '"'"■■■ •■-'■""""■■li"« m>.-«t i., .I...wl,„|..
■^3
,A^^
■ minutes.
diose one
-Hay wit) I
iinance of
le mi''lit\
i
CHAPTKU X X X r
u..
M'
Tin: i;i i(IKI) ( IT\ <)| I'dMl'Kll.
rnijKV ,„onn,„u-.. it I'n,M7>,v/-.'- I =thv,,vs ha.l an i.lr.t tla.t v.... wr„(,
X .luwn MituI uiuiu-u witlit.nvl.(.,s. l,v tl„. May of .lamp, ,lark N'tainvavs
just as yua ,1„ m silver „..,„•,.. a,ul trav-Ts...! ;,luo„,v fmnols with la'va
out ot t n; .sohd .artl.. tl.at faintly re.s..,.>blo.l l.o„so,s. fiut von .k. i:,thm.
X n nuHl a.al thrown oy.n fW..ly tu the. li,,ht uf .lay ; an.l thwJ .stan;i
t on^' rows ..f solnlly-lun t hri.k houses (ruorto.s) jnst as thev stoo.I
iirht.vnhuu.lrwl years ayo. hot uith tl,e tlaniino:„„, ; a,„l there lie their
oors ..lean-swept, an.l not a hri^^ht tVa;,.ueut tarnislie.I or vantin^^ of
K labore.! niosaies that pietun-.l them with th.. Leasts, and l,i,ds. an.l
(lowers which wo copy ,n perishahle earpets to-,lav ; an.l there are the
enuses and Bacchiuses, and Adonises, makin^- lov.. an.l .vttin- drunk
>u .,.any-ln,...l frescoes on the walls ..f saloon an.l hed-chand.er ; and there
._u-e tlH. narrow streets an.l navr.)w,.r si.lewalks, pav,.,l with llai^.s of :nn\
vlt! ?r'' • ""i: ''''^''/ ';""^'^ ^''*'' *''*' ^-''''^-t-whc.ls, an.l' the .ftner
h the passM,.,^ i.H of the Pon.p. iians of l.yo-one centuries ; and there
■ H the i.ak..-shops, the temph-s, the hall.s of justice, the haths. the
li.'atres-^-all dean-scraped an.l neat, and su-oestino- nothin- of tla.
nature of a s, hT-r nunc away ,l..wn in the i.owels of the eai-th. The
u-oken jul lars lyniy ahout, tlu, .loorless doorways an.l the crund.led t.>ps
f the wd.lerness of walls, were wonderfully su,i^,.estiv(, of the '•burnt
stiict m one of our eit.es, an.l if there had been any <>ham.d timbers,
Itei-e-l win.lows, heaps of debris, ami general blackness and smokiness
■ ilJout til.' i.lace. the resemblance would liave been perfect. But no—the
.sun sJiines as;^ brightly down on ol.l Pompeii to-dav as it di.l Avhen Christ
^vas Wn m L,>tJilehein, and its streets are ch^auer a humlre.l tim,>s tJiau
<ner P.)inpeuan saw them in her ju'lme. I know whereof I s„eak— for
m the great, chief thoroughfares (Merchant street an.l th., Street of
lortune) have I not seen with my own eyes how for two hundred years
at least the i.avements were not i^epaired .' -how n,ts five and even ten
nches <_leep were worn into the thick flag-stones by the chariot wheels of
,^e. envtmns of swindled tax-payers I An.l .lo I not Icnow bv these signs
liiat Street ( onimissioners of Pompeii never atten.l,.d to tliVir Ir.isiness,
iiii; .11 iHiMK.vr .>.i;at.
■20]
\\ <'|i;is.sc(l tlindieli tlic .'It,. u|,l,.|, c ,1 M !•
"'•1'' til." vuciuit srnts of tli.. .huh' ,,.l I 1 ; i i . ''1"''' '""'
■'"■-'^il'l^' Latin i t].e 1 1 .^.^^i^^ "^ *'"'""' "'^if^fi-' i'^ inmupre-
'l''al a!ik,. Tln.fl '^ •, ■"'"'''" '""'* t'"'"'' I'ons<".s a -rood
-;n;i^on..l ' „ , ;^^-^^^ --.^;t i„ .......i^ :l
M'ntentrofw..k.onu. s^m.ett I *'"''\''«^>1<1 >onr oyrs fall ni,,,,. a Latin
<>n(l ].a},it.s. Tl.e n, Xx.m o '" ''T'' '"^■'"""'•^ "^ tl.eir tastes
l'i''»'n-.s,..i.'i.a.:„;r^n.t!n '^"^'^^""'P «" P^-«^i<^"« stones; tl.ei.
. .i.tun o. nnift.t.n crntnr,o.s nl,|, ,„v uft..,, mnvh more pleasin-
''m
li i«»
.^
.1^
^«l
'JOl'
lOOTI'KI.VI'.S OK THK DEPARTED.
;l
li :)
tliantliHcelebmtod n.l.hisJ, of tJ.e old luastei-s of tli.-ee centurias a-.)
They were well uj. ,n art. Fioni the creation of these Avorks of the tinst*
clear ui. to tlie ele onth fent.ny, art seems liardlv to liavo existei at ali
—at ]ea,st no remnants of it are left—and it was 'enrious to see how far
(m some thmgs at anyrate.) these ohl time pagans excelled the remotr
generations ot mastei-s that came after them. The pride of the world i,.
scnlptures seem to he the Laocoon and the Dyin^' CJladiator. in Eonu.
lliey are as old as Pompeii, were dujr from the eaith like Pomi..Mi- hu<
then- exact age or who made them can oidv he conjectuitnl. But ^vovn
and cracked, without a history, and « ith the' hh^mishing stains of
numberless centuries upon them, they still nnitelv laock at all etibrts r<>
rival their perf.'ctions.
Jt was a (inaint nnd curious i.astim.., waiuieriu- through this old silenr
city ot the dead^-loungiuo; through utterlv deserted streets wher-'
tlioi.sands and thousands of human beings ouce bought and sold, and
w-alked ano rode ami made the place resotmd with the noise and confusion
of trathc and pleasure. They Mere not lazy. Thev hurried in thosr
days \^ e had evidence of that. There was a temple on <me corner
an.l it was a shorter cut to go between the columus of that temi.le fro.u
one street to the other than tt> go aroiind-Hind behold that i.athwav ha<l
b3en worn deei. into the heavy flag-stone floor of the bnildiie' b^• .".ener-
atioiis ot time-saving feet ! They would not go around when ft was
quicker to go through. We do that wav in our cities
Every where, you see things that make vou wonder hoAs old these old
houses were before the night of destruction came-things too. which
iM-ino- back tho,se long dead inhabitaits and place them living before vonr
eyes, tor instance : The steps (two feet thick--lava blocks) that 'lead
up out of the school, and the same kind of .steps that lead up into th-
dress circle of the principal theatre, are almost worn through ' For
ages the boyshi.rrieiloutof that school, and forages their parents hurried
into that theatre, and the nervcnis feet that have been dust and ashes for
eighteen centuries have left their record for us to read to-dav. I imagined
1 could see crowds of gentlemen and ladies thron-in- into the thPativ
with tickets tor secured .seats in their hands, and .m the wall. I read th..
imaginary placard, in infamous grannuar. " Positivelv No Fueic List
Except Membeks ok the Press I" Hanging about the doorwav (I
tancied,) wereslouchy Pompeiian street-boys uttering slan- and profanity.
and keeping a wary eye .mt for checks. T entered the theatre, an.l .sat
down 1,1 one of the long rows of stone benches in the dress circle, and
looked at the j.lace for the orchestra, ami the ruined stage, and .round at
the wide sweep of empty boxes, and thought to myself. '• This house
won t pay. 1 tried to imagine th.^ music in full blast, the leader of the
orchestra beating time, and the " v.-r.satile" So-aud-Ho (who had -jus^
r<^turne<l from a most successful toui-in the i.rovinces to plav his last 'and
tarcwell engagement of positively six nights .,nlv, in Pompeii, i,reviou.
to Ins departure for Herculane.im,") charging around tlu> sta-^e andpilin-
the agony .mo-nitaius high- -but I conld not do it with such a - house"
tt'lioii it was
FOOTCHIXTS (.1- Till.; |,i:i'AltTi;i>. ^,,.5
«* that ; those empty henche.s tied n.y fanov down to ,h.ll reaJitv 1 .ai.)
JheHghr' »""^'-""*"^'* *-"'^''^' • <'•- •'-.. the en.-;ai.;: P.;; :;!;
Ajul .so I turned away and went thnm-h sh 01. after shoi, .,>,.l .f .
Mtter stoz. fiu- down the Ion. street of tlarnu.r h u ts nd e ij I u'^
-ares of Kome an.l the Kast. h„t the tradesn.en we e "on; t . , '
were sdent an, notln-nj, was U-ft l.nt the broken jars all set in c ,n n . f
ox u,n,ers of Pon.peii foun.l nice, well bake.l ioav-.s w i tt "ke;. j
nut fonnd tune to remove from the oven the h :in>e e eft lis ' 1 !
l-oanse circumstances contpeUed him to leave in snch alum '
In one house (the only huihlin^ in Pomj-eii which no o n ."m is nov
.Hovvecl o enter,) were tin. snndl rooms and short beds of X ml ^
.list as they were ,n the old times, and on the walls wen^ picttue wl di
looked almost as fresh as if they were painted vester.hv ,.f wl i V
^z^^r:^'' ''--''ri *^ .ieserib^ andh;nd^;e;;:'l :"t^;:
insciptuwis— obscene scintillations of wit scrat<lie<] bv l....,-ic ^1 .
,H>ssibly were ...lifted to Heaven for succoi: in t^ n <1^ J t^^Z
.storm ot hre before the ni;trht was done. '"''
In one of the principal streets was a ponderous stone tank •u.d .
.ater-.spout that supplied it, and where the tired, heated toile " fl-om h
lo -ZVSs" r^ *';;'-• -«l't].-ul« when they bent ove!.: ;
en 1 ps to the spout, the thick stone was worn down to a broad irro ov,-
Isas^l'r"!*!; IT"^ - ^''" «^- *'-t -^ ^0-, t.> so reduce a stone that
They had a great p.d.lic bulletin board in P.^mpeii a" olace whe...
-noui-ceinents for ,ladi.,torial combats, elections, aild lucil ^^;j^.
i.Kh. Who. I take It. was rich au.l well brought up, advertised n dwelli, ..
- -to .at, with l.ths ami all the modeni im^^-vem^^ . d I! ^ ^
lnnid,e<l .shops, stipuh.tmg that dwellinos .shouhl not be put toimmor
purposes. You can find out who lived' in nianv a hou.e'in ?:,, e v
n t^^l' wl .f " ^'"""1 "*^" "^^'^^^ *'^ *^-"^ = --» "^ tl- same " V u
S^f ,"'^'! •'■'•" '"''"'^'''"- ^* l^'<* t'>'«tomsand hi.storv of this
orgotten people. But what wouhl a volcano leave of an America c tv
.n^c^onco ra.ne<l its cinders on it ! Hardly a-sign or a symbd U. "ell iVs
Tn one of these long Puh.pelian halls tiie skeleton of a man was foun.l
will ten pieces of gold in one hand and a large key in t ecXr H e
l.ad seizeu his money and startcl toward .he door, but the fi^ry tempest
i» ("lA
^'\
!!
2(U.
Tin; Mn.wi: .\[ahtvi!s to nirv,
vaugiit hu.i at tlie vory tliiv«],oM, au.l lu^ sank .!owu and .liP.I (),„.
Jiioi-,. minute of precious tin.o would have savod ].in,. 1 saw tl.e skdotons
ot a inan a woman, and two youn- ^irls. Tlu" woman liad ],(--,• l.nn.ls
spread wule apart, as if in n.o.tal t.rror, and I imagined T , ..add still
rare upon hM- shapeless faee sonieJiiv.^. of tlie expression of wild despair
that (hstorted it when the he„vens raine.l iire in these streets so many
TVr' /Y/"'',''"'',^'""""' ^''y ^^■'^'' tl.eir faees upon their anns
as if they Imd tried to shield then: from tlie envelopin- cimlers I„ one
j'partu.ent e.yhteen skeletons Nvere found, all in sittin<( postures, and'
l.aekened plaees on the walls still mark their shapesand show their
Mt.tudes, dee shadows. One of them, a woman, still wore upon he,-
skeleton throat a ueeklaee. wit], her name en-raved upon it .In,,- i„
Of().MKDH. ' 1.11. iti
But perhaps the n,ost pootieal t],ino- Pompeii has viel.led to mode,',!
nseiu-ch. was that -rand fio„re of a i^oman soldie.-, 'clad in e.an,,|..te
armur: wIh^ tn.e to his duty, true to his proud name of a soldi.T of
Hmu; and tull of the stern eouraoe whieh had .i,dve.,i to that nan,e it^-
|;lory .su.od to h,s post ).y t],e city gate, erect ami uiiHinehiny, till tlie
Hell that ra.ued around hin, fj>,nie,f ont iht. dauntless .spirit it e.aild ,„,(,
eoiiquei'. , '
We never ivad of Fom],eii hut we think of that .sohlier ; we can not
w.,te ,H Pompe,i without the natu,.,l impusle to grant him the mention
lioso well deserves. Let us I'ememl.er that he w;, • a soldiei- „ot •,
p(^l.eeman--an,-! so, p,-aise him. JJeing a sohlier. he stai<l,-.-l,ecau,s<> thi-
vaiTior instnict forbade hini to Hy. Had he been a police.nan he would
Have staid, also- b-oause he would have been aslee].
ri.e,v. are not half a .lozen iiights .)f stairs in Pompeii, and no othe,'
ewd.'nees that the houses were n,ore than one storv hii,d,. The i>eoi,le
<1.<1 n-r live m the clouds, as do the A^e.ietians. the (Genoese and Neaooli -
tans (il t(i-dav. '
We came out from under the solemn mysteries of this eitv of the
\ .•nerabh. Past-this city which perished, with all its ohl wavs an.l its
M'lanit ohl fa.shions about it, remote centuries a-o. when th.-' Disci,, les
M.-re j.reacumg the new religion, which is as old as the hills to us now '
aiid went <l,'eamn,g among the trees that grow over acres and acres of its
still buried streets and s.piai'es, till a shrill whistle and the crv of " (//
u/>uanf-^h,.ffrah> for Xaple, !" woke me up an.l reminded me Iha't I
I.elonged m the nineteenth century, and was not a dusty mummv, .-ak.'-l
wuh ashes and cinders, eighteen hundred years old. The transitio.i was
sta.-tl.ng. The i.lea of a railroad train act,iallv running to ohl dead
Pun.peii, itnd whistling i. -reverently, and calling for passengers in the
most bu.sthng and business-like way, was as strange a thing a^ one eoul.l
Hiiagine. iind as unpoetical and disagreeable as it M-as stranoe
C ompare the cliet.rful life and the .sunshine of this dav wifl, the ho,To,-s
iiat the younger Plmy saw here, the iJth of November, A. I) 7!) when
l,e was so bravely striving to remove his mothc-r out of reach of harm
uhiie she begged him, with ail a mothers unselti.shhes.s, to leave her to
perish and save himself.
TIIK I'KKlSKAlil.I.: NATIHK Ol' V\MK. 205
vailing Of clul.fn.n, and tl 'm',! ■ \, L ''■ , ''''^,^'r\'':''':.l'';'">^^ "^ wonu.n, "the
«na another Ins wit , au,l h- Xi v , i.. ■ ,' I ','" "^ '" '''^'"■';' '"'"'''"• '>i« ■'*^^''-
n...eet^:,;' rn^^^^ri/^; ^:!^-;;';!. ',;--:^'^;^-;'f - ^l.. i.on.in, .h.ath ui.h th.
mmmmm
possibly : '^'"'"^"^^"^'^^'^ ' JJns-ui tl.<vEucyclopedia for A. D. 5«(JS,
.1- Tn>,an wa. instead of h.lon- it. ll^Z;^'^ iJ- ^rt to'sLSlllitS;^':' '"''"'
These tlioiights sadden me. I will to bed.
■f -V*
fJj
O.ME
C H A P T E R XXXII.
HO.MlMigaiii : I'oi- tliotinst time, in many woekn, tlw. .s(n])S eiiliv.^
family met and shook liands on tlie .luarter-deck. They liad
yutliei-ed from many points of the coiajjass and from many hinds, bnt not
one M-as nnssnif.-; there was no tale of sickness or deatli anion<f the flock
rodami»on the pleasure of tlie reunion. Oiu-e more there was a fall
audience on deck to listen to the sailoi-s' chorus as they got the anchor
up, and to wave an adieu to the hind as we sped awav from Naples.
The seats were full at dinner 'again, tlie domino parties \vere complete^
and the life and bustle on the upper deck in the Ihie moonlight at night,
was like old times -ohl times that had been weeks only, lait yet thev
were weeks so crowded with incichmt, adventure and o.xeitement, that
they seeme.d almost like years. There was no lack of cheerfulness on
board the Qmikpr Citij. For once, hei- title was a misnonu'i'.
At seven in the evening, with the western horizon all golden from the
sunken sun, and specked with distant ships, the full moon sailin<' hi-di
(iver head, the dark blue of the sea. under foot, and a strange sort " f
twilight effected by all these ditterent lights and colors around us „nd
about us, wc sighted superb Stromboli. With what maiestv the monarch
held Ins lone'y state above the le\ el of the sea ! \ )istanc'e clothed him in ,-i,
l^uiple gloom, ami added a veil of shimmering mist that so softened his
rugg.nl featur(;s that we seemed to see him thiou-h a web of silver gau/.'.
His torch was mit : his fires was snatldering; a tall colunui of smoke that.
I'o-ie up anil lost itself in the glowing mooidight was all the sign he "avo
ihathe was ;. living Autocrat of the Sea and not the spectre ^of a dead
one.
At two in the nioi-ning we swept through the Straits of Messina, and
so bright was the moonlight tiiat Italy on the one hand and Sicilv on
the other seemed almost as distinctly visitdeas though we looked at "them
iVom the middle of ii street w.> were traM>rsing. 'I'he city of Messina,
mdk-wliite, and starred and spangled all over wjth gas lights, was a fairy
spectacle. A gn^it party of us were on deck s)iioking and makim^ a,
uoise, an 1 waiting to see famous Scylla and ( "harvbdis. ' And presemlv
the ( »racle stepi.ed out with his eternal sjiy -glass and scpiared himself on
the deck like another Colossus of Ehodes. Ft was a suri)rise to see him
ubroad at .such an Jiom-. Xobody supposed he cared anything about an
ohl fable like tliat iA^ Scylla and Charyljdis. One of the Imvs
^aul
Tl(i: (»R..\t|,K AT FAl I.T.
207
lii]i's t'litiv.i
They h<n]
uls, but not
iig the Hock
^va.s ii fill!
the auelioi-
Jill Niiples.
? c()nii)l(>te,
;ht iit iiijilir,
t yet they
laeiit, thiit.
I'fiiliiess OH
m from the
iiliii,<jf ]iijj;li
ige soi't nt"
lul IIH ..imI
lit'iiiouard!
ed liini in a,
jfteiied liis
Iver ;,fini/.e.
■^moke that.
jXn he ^ave
of a (Iea<l
ssiua, ani[
Sicily on
ed at then:
r Messina,
iVas a faii'v
making ;(,
presently
himself on
to see him
■ about an
'»ovs said ;
wi; "t;::rr;;;:;t;;^.^';;;;;!';r ;;.: '•<->■ - this ,,. , .,,,, r^
I'lacs that's n;entioned !n tie Bii:i;: •!' '' "'"•■^^""- ' ^^•'^'' ^" -- ^'^/"tl-
;• StMti- --this jdace isn't menti ned in the Bible -
t auit mentioned in the JJible)- //,/,, ,,i,„.,, \,i„,t
A\hy itsSoylh. ami Charvbdis "
„.,;;,^^f)^ m.d Cha confbnml it. I thought it Mas
"ell now. wJiat
And I'ylosed u|. his ul,ssaMd w.nt beh.sv.
Sodom ajid (Jo-
riie abyve is t]n'
^Un-y. Its plansib it is nZCl, Uu!' , ' .^ " . "^ "'•^^^- '^ ^'"" ^1»1'
"ot a biblical student, and id ,.' . d " ' ,' ^'f/'""' *^"^ ^^''"^^^^ -"«
l.in.self about Scriptural lo.U e tC'.v S( ) T ''"''\ "'^^'''"^'"^
i>ut weather, latelv. that the onlv bev ,^, ' 1, ."'''•""'•''""■^' "'*''•«
is the butter He' did ..r „ ' i '" '* '■'•^•' '" tl-e ship that is passable
article remains ^ . u 1^ Z!' ^:^2 '' '"''''''' '"'^ "— ^^ - tlS
givH him the credit of ' vt in ne "*' ?• '''V^ "^ '^•**' '* '"^ ^"i'' to
tor <.nce in his life. He ^^ f i R J! "f^ n'T /" p '^' ^'^^^'^ '*''-'' '->''-.
"l'» n.uu but he never^;^ H •. ! ^ " ' '^t'^^::^^' ^vas a nobledookinj
n.u..butiaM>ever,//.t,dni:;;:;;eh',;;^,;i:7ii.l''
w , , -'■•inv iiiufii oi jii>s Iliad
,;:::.;;'« r;:;,,:'';-;::;.;;^";i;':':'' »™;-'<-; :. ,„
Wl„u «■,,,,. .,,„«„,, ,„ „"'■;,.■ «■"'•''> 1 >""■«•".. II,M,«I, .«„• fa„ci,.» /
ill iiotual Atl,™,> V. ,;,l f '"." •" ',"" .""' '"■«." i.i'l «i.lt
.i.««.;i";:^;;;™;l;i;;:'i;i''';-;:-t'-i;;!::'»'« «- • w„
'-'Ululating Plain of Attica c.a I b, '^ • /^^^"y "«, across the
Hith a something on i " w ii ] ^^ ,• j.;; ™ " '^"r ^'l""'--t«Pi'^-'l J'i"
•uined ,Hlifi..es .it- ,],.. ,;•.,,- ;.':', ^^T' ^-^^'^ discovered to be thn
citade! oi' i]u
among them loome.l tlie Venerul/TC.rl!"f "'"'''''''^" *'"'' '.'"'"* ]>r..inineut
l-v fs this wonderlul a" ; , '' '""rv r''''^'^^^^^'^'"' «'»'
I 'HI T)i,.r e\ei\ coliunn of the noble
#1
.'^W
208
AXCIK.NT ATIIKXS.
iu i
k
Htructim) Wi.s (lisciM-iiiM,. tlmm-li tin- trlfs.-opc, fuid even tlic; Hiiiall,.,'
nuns about it assnnied some senihlanee of slinj.e. Tliis at a distance oi
Jive or si.v miles. In ll.e valley, near the Aeropojis, (the s.p.are-topped
InllLelore spok.'n ol.) Athens its..]feonhl he vaguelv made out uitJ. a,
or.iinary h.i-nette. Kv<-. y hody was anxious to ^et ashore and visit
these elassie localities as ,|uiekly as possible. \o land we l,a.| vet seer,
had aroused .siieh univers.'d intei'ost among the |:asseni,'ers.
I!ad news eame. Tla^ eommandaut of tlie Pinens'eame in his l.,.iu
and .sanl w,> nnist .'ithei' depa' t or .'Ise j,'et outside the l.ari)or and remain"
imprisoned m our sliip, umler rif,d(l .piarantine, for eleven days ' So aw
took up the andiorun.l moved oui.side, to lie a dozen lu)urs o'r so takin-
in supplies, and thou sail for Constantinople. It was the hitteresi
Ui.sappuintment we liad yet e.vperieneed. 'I'o lie a whole day in si-lit of
the Acropolis, aii.l yet he ol.li-ed to -o awav without visiting Athens '
Disappointment was hardly a strong eiiou-.h word to descril.e the cireum
stances.
All hands M-erc^ on deck, all the afternoon, with hooks and maps and
gla.sses, trying to determiiHs which "narrow rocky ridg(^" was tli.'
Areopagus, wliich sloping liill the Piiyx, which elevation \he ^ruseun,
Hill, and so on. And we got things confu.sed. Discussion hecana-
heated, and j.arty spirit ran high. (Jluuvh memhors were gazin..- with
omotiou upon a iiill M-hicli th(;y said was the oiu; St. Paul j >reached from
ami another faction claime.l that that hill was Hvmettu.s, and another
that It was Pentehcoii ! After all the trouble, we cuuld be certain of
only one thing— the s.juare-topped hill was Acropoli.s, and the grand ruin
that crowned .t was the Parthenon, whose picture we knew in infancv
111 the school books.
W(^ en(]uired of every ])ody who came near the .ship, whether tlmiv
were guards in the Piru'us, wliether they were strict, what the chances
were ol capture should any of ns slip ashore, and in case any of us made
the venture and were caught, what would be ].robab]v done'to ns I The
nuswers were very discouraging ; theiv was a strong guard of police
torce ; the Pyneus was a small town, and any stranger seen in it would
surely attract attention— capture would l)e certain. The commai'dant
said the punishment would be "heavy ;" when asked "how heavy r ]„.
said It would bo " very severe"— that\vas all we could get out of liim.
At eleven o'clock at night, when most 6f tlu^ ship's company Mere
abed, lour of ns stole softly ashore in a small boat, a clouded moon
tavonng the enterpri.se, and started two and two, and far apart, over a
low hill, intending to go clear around tlu^ Pira-us, out of the range of its
Jiohce. Picking our way so .stealthily over that rocky, nettl'e-'rown
eminence, made me feel a good deal as if I were on my wav somewlu^iv to
steal something, ^fy immediate comrade and I talked in an nndertoiie
iibout quarantine law.s and their penalties, but we found nothing cheeriii"
m the subject. I was posted. Only a few days before I was talking
with our qiptain, and lie mentioned the ca.so of a^nan who swam ashore
from a (luarautined ship somewhere, and got imprisoned six months for
jllJ
.' in iufaiiev
KlNM.Mi TfiK llL<.rKAl>K. .,f,,,
It; HiKi when Ii»! was in (iciK.. •, f..«^- „
«l'il' went in Lis l.oat to ' i .i j ^^..^^p' ''^';' "^l'*'""'**' '« 'I'mmntin..,!
-tl.orities in.,.rii.ne,l 1m" t' J n i '^ ''•'>'"" ^;' ""^ ''-"'.v, an.l ti.e
ft.rthe,. than to .ivc. a sort of .1 .1 i l!! i;?'"""'^'"" "I'"' "" ^-•i-
ex,.e<ht,on. an.] m, we ,I.o,.,„.,1 ,t W „ ,,;"'" '''^"'••"'■'•'"'''^•"''^^
<^>wn without .seein. anyho.lv l.nt one ,„. ';;..'"", 'T "'''"'''' -"^ ♦'"■
Imtsai.l nothing, an.l a, h,x.,.,'> ■..■.•sons s l ''^"\f''""^ "^ "'^ <'nnonslv.
<lo<>r«, whon. w.TwaIic...l ann n. u , ^ ' J"' * "' ^""""•1 '-fore their
«'»<'''«lOnallconsoi..,c..Jv. h 1 w '^'^'^•' -'"'* ^^^ W'>k<' "|. .i.-^^s
-nd several tin.es we ] a.l as ,n /, ' T *V ""' "r^"" "'■'^■"'" ''* '"''^^
"'-l<-"cl. a ,,er,.osterons n J i , r ." '■'";' 'T"'"' "^ """•■• ''''"'V
coul.l tell how w|. were ,.r., vss t f. 7''.' t''"^ "T ^^''''' ^'""^ ^''«v
l>y the harking .,f th,. <I ,.rs Th ^, i'' ""^' ^"""' '""' ^^■'"'••<' w.- were.
tl.'-^fnrther.si.le,,ft]...tovn he ,,a '"""':'^' T"'- *'"' l'<-«'- on
longer f..are.l the liuJa As -e i'''? ""* •^l''''"*li'llv. bnt we n.,
-Innk, tlu.owne'n .K-l:;..: ^: ;•:;::•;•' '' ^ '' 'V^ " '--<•, to get
<l"if't, slnn.bering t.nvn at J , . ' r ' "'.''• r'^'""- "" '"^ *''<■
«li<ln't .h, anv thii.g to it ' """"'' '^ ''"'•" l'"""'ly, that we
little rougher piece of eon y th evi 't ' f-^*''"f '""^ ->"l •'-.■ a
Htatcof 'Wla, j,erhan 1^ ,f L . "'V^'"'" ''"' *>"*«"!<■ of the
loose stones-we' r.>.l , n'six ; [jn T'l V'"" T"''"^ '"'''^^ •^>"""-
|-^ of it was .h., ,.,.se, Z^^J^, 1 1"' ;! ,/^'-|- Anoth..
It was n long stretcli of low -r.i,.e-vin.>s " ■ ; ^*'" '""•*"•''' P'^''t of
tronblesonie, and which we to kt. . •/''"■*' t.,ngle-s.jn,e muI
barring the -rr.i.K-vi es w . 'i<""''l<'.s. The Attic Phiin
wond.^? what iH .; r^re^^^s' w'[.;'^^^'f' • rT'''' "-*^^-''
Christ ? '-'lettts Age of Ulory, five hnn.Ir.ul yea.-s hefore
In the neighborh.)o.l .)f o— o'.-loek h, ji
».eate,l witli fast walking a ul ^1^^ with ' fl' •'''':''''?; "^'^"' ^^■^' '•^•^'•'■
•' Wliy. these woe.ls arc-rn-a,lvin s '-' ,, , '■ "•"""''■ *'-^-'''""'^''J.
of bunches of lar^^e wl ite £i, r , ' "' ^^'' '"'""** '^ ^^'<' ^''^^ '^ «eor.^
">ore when a .la k^hl^'^o^ t^^^" 3?' '"' "T' T"'''"^ ^>-^" ^'••
us and sai.l " Ho ! " A,'d soT Jefr ' "^* " "^ *'"" '''"''^"^ •"^•'^"''~
In tea niimit<'s more we stmck i,,h-, .. i ..p i
othe,. we had stunu.led ™ t h^ n": ] t'm '^^ ''";'' "^'i ""^'^^ -"'"
We followe.1 it. It was bro , u ' ^.'.0 i V • ^''•", "-^'* '^''-^^tion.
l>eifect repair, and sha h1 .^ bo s^s f .7'"^-- '"^"'iHon.e and in
of trees, and also wit 1 uxuSt f ii e i, ^ '^^"' ' "' "''" ^''*^' ""'■^''^' ''-"ks
.nu-, and the .econd t^^: Lb^ tte.^";::^,^"^^''^^ '"''-T'
place. 'Wliereunon we left •i<r:,i„ ^ * ' 1 , : ""'" """'^ "'visible
that side of Athens " ' «l'eoulated in gra,>e,s no luoi-e on
14
i
210
AMOMfi THK (M.ORIKS OK TlIK I'AST.
Slioitly wo came upon an ancient .stune a(|iit'(liirt, luiilt upon arches,
and from tliat time fortli we liad ruins all al>out us— we were ai)proacliinj,'
our joui-ney's end. We, could not see the Acropolis now or the hiph hill,
either, and ] wanttnl to follow the road till we wtw. ahreast of them, hut
the others overruled me, and w<' toiled hilariously up tlit^ stony' hill
immediately in our front- and from its summit saw another -cliinl)ed it
and saw another ! It was an hour of exhausting,' work. Soon we came
upon a row of open oraves, cut in the solid rock ( for a while one of them
.served Socrates for a prison) — we passed around the shoulder of the hill,
and the citaih'l, in all its ruined ma.<,'nifici'nc(>. hurst u])on us ! W,'.
hurried across the I'avine and up a winding road, and stood on the old
Acropolis, with the prodigious walls of the citadel towering' above oui-
heads. We did not stop to inspect their massive blocks of marble, oi-
mea.sure their height, or -uess at their .'xtraonlinaiy thickne.'^s," but
imsseil at onci' through a great archeil passage like a" railway tuiuiel,
and u-ent straight to the gate that leads to the ancient' temj.les!
It was locked: So, after all, it seemed that we were not to .see the
great Partlieuun fac-e to face. We sat down and held a council
of war. Result : the gatt) was only a flimsy structure of wood-
we would break it (h)wn. It se:-med 'like deseiTation, but then we had
traveled far, and our necessities were urgent. We couid not hunt
up guides and keepers - we must be on the shij) before daylight. So we
argued. This was all very line, but when we came to break the gate, we
<;ould not do it. W(> moveil around an angle of the wall and found alow
bastion —eight feet high without — ten or twelve within. Deimy pi-epared
to scale it, and we got ready to follow. By dint of hard scranibling he
iinally straddled the top, but loose stones crumbled a%\ay and fell with a
crash into the court within. There was instantly a banging of doors and
a shout. Denny droi)ped from tht^ wall in a twinkling, and we retreated
ni disorder to the gate. Xer.xes took that mightv citadel four hundred
and eighty years before Christ, when his iiv«> niillions of soldiers and
camp-followers followed him to (Jreeee, and if we four Americans could
have remained unmolested five miiuites longer, we, would have taken it
too.
The garrison had turned out four (liveks. We clamored at the gate,
and they admitted us. [P.riliery and corrui)tion.]
We crossed a large court, entered a great door, and stood upon a i)ave-
ment of purest white marble, deej)ly woiii by footprints. JJefore us, in
the flcoling moonlight, rose the noblest ruins'we had ever looked upon-
the Propyhe ; a small Temi)le of Minerva ; the Temple of Hercide.s, and
the grand Parthenon. [We got these names from the Greek guide, who
didn't seem to know more than seven men ought to know.] These
edifices were all built of the whitest Pentelic marble, but have a pinkish
stain upon them now. Whei-e any part is broken, however, the fractiire
looks like fine loaf sugar. Six caryatides, or marble women, clad in
Howing robes, support the portico of the Temple of Hereule.s, but the
porticos and colonnades of the other structures are formed of maf'.sive
.A.MO.Nci THK Or.ORrK.s ok tHK
i'.V.ST.
Doric
ptiifeot, notwitli.staiidiii'.r i']
ii'l Joiiic jiillnrs. wljosc Hut
211
•"«« find i-;i|,itals aiT- stil
th
Imiidrwl iiiid tn-ciit
and
W tho mittirics tliat liav
Jiie;wiira
Hip.:,'»'s tlif'v Imvo .sum-ivd. The I-
bly
iiad two rows of jirreat col
■•■•; •-.".,,.. ,i,e rarthcnoii, ,
y-.six- t(.,-t Ion;,', one lumdred wid
i,'oii() ovoi- tlioni juid
', on'^'inally, wa.s two
n.gle rows of seventeen oacli doMn' 'tlnrsi,!
racefiiland beautiful edifi
"inns, ,M-l,t in eadi. at eiti
t\ and seventy hiyh
'tt'V
'• «nd, ami
-"Most of tli(> Pai-tl
ces ever erected.
!»'s, and was o)ie of the most
roof
IS L'one
HMions inij)osin<r cohin
'"■'^ .'ire still standin.
M'hen a si
s.,:;;;r;::t^^::;!S'-..-;'-™'%
the Venet
- M;lo.sion wind, followed wrecked and
little ahout the Parthenon, and I have, ut
tor the use of othe,- p,.,,;,,,. ,,;,,, ,,„„ "'^'
i!iii iiiai^azine store he!"
unroofed it. J
tnit the
years ag<i,
■f'. iind the
renienihor Imt
111 Olio or two facts and fin-,
s,niide-book
llH'Illol'lc
(iottli
iin s
As
'111 fioiii th
.^;:.:;!;"'7r' ^^^^'^^M^y dow,, tl.e marM
stately tem,>l... the scene al.o„t
(herein lavish jirofnsion. w^tc
propped a-ainst blocks of inarl.l
'IS was stran^vlv ii
sioiKw^.re^Iean.in- white statu.'s of
j.avcd h.n,^'th of tJiis
iiiia-essive. Ueni and
, --ri- •• ..,-,......-.t o.MCKs 01 mar!,].., some of th
others he.-idless- -hut all 1 ^-- - -
'""iian : Thev rose „,.
iiit'ii and women
f'ln armless, some without 1
ley i-ose u|,
side-thev stared at 1
tl
and (•oiifi'(.nt..< tl,o ,„;,]... •.,i./-. '^'••nMuigi^
'wesses ; they peero.l at him f,
liiiii with stonv (.ves h
'i-ontrd thomidinVht intrud
>ia Uiilooked-t
cr on (!ver'
(l(
'solatt:
corridors ; tlw^y h,„.,vd hi
■(Jill ovci- fra/4'mentai-v Ji
""] ■'^oleiiiiily ].ointed witli liandl
••iiid thi-oii<rh t]
rioor
roofl
w M'ay in tl
s arms the way from tl
or nooks and
ips far down the
le midst of tin- broad for
urn.
md darkened the scattered fi
ms te.nple the moon looked d
antin^r shad(n\s of the col
" 'lat a world of ruined
ii.U'iaents and b
W
umns.
'u' sacred fauo ;
!'>\vii, and banded tlie
'A"ii statues with the
■^tacked
A
iciii|itiire A\-as about
lip 111 piles-.- scatt(*red broad, vist
us
r't U
cropolis- wer<> hundreds of cri-mled stn.,
-PJ^.teworkuianship; and vasf £;„;;:;:;;
over the wid'
ues .
jfall
I m i:)ws-
f tli
an;, I (1
■;i;:(
s and o
ftl
Piitablatures, covered n-ith 1
to the
>^ifSes, ships of war with^j,
processions— ;.v(>i'v thiir
•'1 niar!.ie that once 1,
las-reliefs renr
10 most
oiii!;e(l
re!i and four t
U'lV
•s of tli3 Acroj)ol
teiti]
and PI
these eleo-ant fi-j
>•' oouM think of Hist
'iidias, and of ni
01
is v.viv
;'iiyanryat master i
■im.'seutin;^ batth's and
pan'cauts and
of
ill'vl with the nob!
oars.
orv
'■St works of Pr
i.iys th.-ii th
giiicnts attest it.
1 •'ciihitinv iiosidcs-
i.\it,ol
,,- I' — o""^ "L.-> .u Le
VVe walked out into the
es
and sniflv
the Parth
face ,sta
'"O'l. Tt stai'tled
'■rass-i.i'ov<
n. tV
plai
re suddenly up at us out of
cvcn-y noA- and (]
i.t;'iin'nt-s.;i'e\vn c
'e seemed aliv
icn, to .S3e a
tlic ;,'rass with its dead
leroes of twenty
^vith yhosts. r ]!alf'ev:ieet;.d
flic old U'ni],]e thev k
centuries a-'o <did
to see the At!
ourt b: youd
stouy -,\-hite
luau
pride.
new so well and
oi'f. of the .shad,nvsandst.'a]'iu\
ivi'ardcl with such I
into
Hie full moon
loundlass
saunterc
of tl
^\'as ridinuc hi<
1 th" cloudl(\ss heaven
carelessly iuulunlhinkin-Iy to the edi^e..ftl
.s, now,
'"' cit;ulel, and "looked dow
a \ !^io»i
lofty bat
And such a vision '. A
We
tIem-.Mifs
tliens
' rJm
'3
■■'* ^f*:
^i
212
A FAIHV VISION — MAKS HILI,.
by iiioonli-ht : Tl... iiroj-lu't fl-ut <hon-1it the splondors of the New
Jonisa cm wnv rovealcd to Ini„, sniely saNV ll.i.s instoad ! It lay in the
Jovcl plain n,i,dit viuhn- o„r feot-all spioad al.road like a nietuiv -and we
looked down ui)on it as ^^,. n.i-ht liav(> lookc.l from a balloon. Wo saw
no semblance of a street, l.nt every liouse. every window, every elin-in.r
vine, every piojeetion, was as distinct and sharplv marked as if the Tiiiie
were noonday : and yei there was no -hire, no ^ditter. jiothin- haish or
TOpnlsive— tho noiseless city was lloode.l with the mellowest' lidit that
ever sU'eMnicl from tla- moon, and seem.vl like some livin- cn<atnre
wra|)pe( m pea.cfnl shind.er, On its fnrther side was a little lemi.I-
whose delicate pillars and ornate front -Iowe<l with a rich lustre that
chained the eye like a spell : an<l neaivr l.v. the palace of the kim'reare.l
Its creamy Avails out of the midst of a ;,a-eat -ardeii of sh.-.ioherv that was
flecked all over with a random shower of anil.cr li-hts- a sprav of ..„hl<M.
sparks that lost their hri-htness in the -lorv of the moon, and Hinted
softly upon the sea of <lark foliage like the pallid stars of the milirv-wav
Uverhead the stately columns, majestic still in their ruin -luirler foot the
dreamni- city-in the distance the silver sea - not on the I.road earth is
there another picture half so;l)eautifiil !
As we turiK-d and moved asaiii throuj,'h the temple, I wished that the
lUustnous men who had sat in it in the remote a-es couhl visit it a-ain
mid reveal themselves to <n.r curious eyes-Plato, Aristotle, Demostheiics
Socrates. Phocion, Tytha.^^n.is, Euclid, Pindar, Xenophon, Herodotus.
Praxiteles and Phidias, Zeuxis tlH> painter. What a constellation of
celel)rated names ! But more than all. I wished that old Dio-eucs
gropm- so jxitiently with his lantern, searchiii!,' so zealously for one
solitary honest man in all the world. mi.,dit meander alon- and stund.le
ou our party. I ou-ht not to say it, may I.e. hut still T suppose he would
have put out his li;,dit.
We left the Parthenon to keep its watch o\er old Athens, as it had
kept It for twenty-three hundred years, and went and stood outside the
walls of the citadel. In the dist.'Uice was tin. ancient, but still tdmost
perfect Temple of Theseus, and close by, lookiir.;- to the west, was the
Bema, troiu whence Demosthenes thundered his philij.pics and lired the
wavering patriotism of his countrymen. To th(> right Mas IMars Hill
where the Areopagus sat in ancient times, and where 8t. Paul d(>line,i
lus position, and below Avas the market-place where he " disputed dailv"
Avith the gossip-loving Athenians. We climbed the stone steps ISt Paul
ascended, and stood in the .scpiare-cut [tlace he stood in, and t-iecl to
recollect the Bible account of the matter-but for certain reasons I
could not recall the words. I have found them since ■
'•Now wlile P.aul wait..l lor tlu-m .it Atlu'ii.., his si.iiu .vr.s stirrcMl ia l.im, wlica
lie .siiw tilt' city wholly ^iviii up to iihilatry.
"TlR'rrtori' (lisiuitc'd he in tla; syniiiiffi/i^iio with the Jews, and
rorsoiis, ami in the market .laily with theni that met with liim.
V itli the devout
'ii,
»r. rAl't,'s CKITlriNM,
313
'"^'S'JvH-'^f -fvr'" "■"' " ■ ^■* '"^ •• '
•iecliur luntoyo.,."-./,./.. ,1,. ;^.iiV."""'. tl"'"'»"iv, v.. i-nonniiy ,v„rsl.i,,, hii,,
'i"yli«l.t l.otniye.1 ,s t . .^ 1 '" '* '^•" """^•"' '" ^"^ ''•^•"^^ '- -ton,
Wlio.i fur on our rem, 1 w , , " '"•""''^'•. '^» ^^^ J'»"-»'cl away.
•■■•H'itals with .silver, a" 2 1 ,,;'"'' r'"'"""'"'^ »'"1 to„duu,,. its
As Me inardicd aloiH' w.. J....,.,,, « i.
•stone at a doij. It was a ., -^sn .f H : "^ ,"""•'"''• ^ "^"''» ""'^^^^ >i
''»'l at intervals I ^1 i^lut e^ ;•- i tl ' ] ''''l'"'' "''''•"'•^ ""cmtrollal.le,
"'i"''in^' tJ.e presence of /, e t -l '' I , "^ '"''"'''• -'"''^I"^'*' "^^ «ven
then Jackson wa all « o len n v.tl ^ ^''■''''"' •■'"•••^''' ^'"- - 'l^zen, but
to enter a vineyanl i^r^S/ '[ .^' -ur.^^e too :nal he Mas obliged
A frowsy, he^nlec! hrCa^^^t^^^'^'T'^^^^^
Piran.s- not runnin- you un ers ,. 1 \ \ ' } '' "*"'"'^ ^'^'^'^'-''^ t''^'
Ti.e .>ri,an.i shouted ;.i,i;;';;;:;':;itJ:^;;^;r'irT ^^^!^-^t*>-
■iiid we laid no time to fool -.u-.v ,„> '''•^•"'ced. Jt was ^rettui- late.
<^reek platitudes to rv. V^ZZ Z"""'^ "T * '"* ''"'''''^ ''' '''^^-1
»ot if we Jaul not heen n j' '' p ^'^•"^^'-V'- t'-ik.'^l with him as
fellows are followinirns- ^^ ^^•^"■^'''"tly Denny said. "Those
We turned, and, 'sure enou-h, thei'e thev mm,.„ ,7 r
■•iHiied with guns. We shiek^>, .,1 " ^'"'*''* hmta.stic j.irates
the meantime I got out my ™ of '"'' Vf ''"^'" "'""* "!>' "^'<' i"
.•eh.ctuantly iutcrthcTSnZ^^rt?!^;'::;;!"" pTf^ ''""" ^''"'^^ '"'^
-ly felt that it was not right iZ^:^^- v^',; "j^;^ ""* '^^•'•-''- I
the OM-ner was aroumi 'uid not n,,!,/ " '*^' , "^"^ ^11 the more; so wlieii
"1.SO. Tlie vilhuns "• n,e , n 1 ' 'V"\'"''; '"'* '^■^^^' '''« ^''i^^'"!" "round
'-Hi, and sco^vl:;r.i^t vt,ndT^;V' 'n'-"' '''■■•^"•^'' '"^*' - ^-
'•oeks from Mars HiH an tl.ei ! ^'"'1 ""^^'"'« '" ^^ ''"^ .ome holy
M..speeted hin, of pitin on r^- tel' T, •''""^•'^'•'""l- They evident ly
half inclincl to sc irtPe mrt^^^ ''"'"'' '»'"! ^^^'--d
-n.,eouchedin^.e:i^tee^1-l^^^^^^^
,1(^4 J,
' 1.
Mli
:4
fl
ANflKNT .1* IKiI'dl.lS.
in ...r WHk... Wlii^n .hey hu.l ^um- tlirc- Inuulml vmils tlnv .stoi.iHni
lui.l >u' «(,,/ ..„ rt-icire,!. 15„t |„.l,n|,|. an„r.. -v nvuwll ras,,-.! cmmh- ...It nt
Ui« shadow, Mu^ took tlu.ir plac... „iul folK, r.I „h two Inm.liv.l yards
JJ.ci. lie .IHiveiv, MS over to aiiotlier inisnvant, vlio niu-r;,'*.! fn.ii.' soni.-
iijy.st<'noii.H place, aii.l l», in Uini to aiiotlirr ; for a mile aii.l a I.alf uiii
-var was ynanl.'d all tl... whil.. I.y an.....l ,„...,. 1 n.-v.T trav,-]..! iu s,.
iniicli state l.cfoiv in all niy lilV,
It wasa^ood wliile aft(T that In-foiv we veiitiiml to steal »nv inoiv
Kiapes, and when we did we stirred up another trouhlesonie l.ii-rand an<l
- le.i we ee*se,l all further speeulation in tliat lin.., I siippos.- timt fe'lluw
tbat ro(h' I.y ..n the mule poste.l all the nentinels, from Athens to the
1 iruMiM, ahout ns.
Kvery tiehl on that lon^» route waswatelie.i l.y an aimed sentin.-l, .some
ot whom had fallen asleep, no doul.t, l.ut weie on hand, lu^vertheless
1 Jus shows what sort of a country modern Attica is- a communitv <.f
• luestional.le charact.'rs. These nam w<.r." n(.t there to -uanl their
possessions a,srauist stran-,.rs, l.utayaiiist (vich other ; for stran-ers seldom
visit Athens and the Pira'us, and wlien they do. tliey «.) in dav-li'd.l
!Uid can l.uy all the ;,M'apes they want f(.r a tritle. The naxlern "inlmhi'
fcmts are contiscators and falsitiei^s of liigh i-(;pute, if gossip si.eaks trub
ouncerniii<,' them, and [ freely helieye it does.
Just as the earliest tinges of the dawn fli.ihed the eastern sky and
tnriied the pillared Partlienoii to a broken haij. hnng in the pearly
horizon, we closed our thirteenth mile of weary, rouiidahout niarchin.r
Hud emerged upon the .sea-slion- abreast the ships, with our usual escort
ot htteeu hun(h-ed Pira'au dogs howling at (.nr heels. We hailed a boat
tliat was two or three hundred yards from shore, and di.scoverecl in a
moment that it was a police-boat on tlie lookout for any quarantine-
breakers that might chance to be abroad. So we dodged -we Ayere used
to t lat by this time— and wlien the scouts reached the sp(.t we had .so
lately occupied, we w.ve absent. They cruised along tiie shore, but in
the wrong hiection, and shortly our own lioat issued from the gloom and
took ns aboard. They liad lieard our signal on the ship. We rowed
noiselessly aAyay, and before the police-boat came in sight again, we ..•.-:■,.
safe at home once more.
Four moi-e of our pa,ssengers were anxious to yisit Athens, and ^t-.tt 'i
half an hour after we returned ; but they had not been ashore five minutes
till the i)olice di.scovered and cha.sed them so hotly that they hardiv
escaped to their boat again, and that was all. They pursued the enten.ri.se
no further.
We set .sail i < V iistantinople to-day, but some of us little care fur that.
Wt) have .seen u '\ ^ v.-i;-: to see' in the old city that had its birth
sixteen hundred j- . vfi bef;j,.i Christ was born, and was an old town
before the founnrJicii. vf .';ay were hii:' —and ,saw it in its most attractive
aspect. Whei-e^br- . '.. "'v should we orry?
Two other pasBeugpiH ran the blockade successfully last night. &!o wc
learned this morning. They slipped away so (juietly that they were not
ity MtopptMi,
cniiu' out nt
iili'fd ynnls,
1 fVuin Moinc
1 It llulf (Mil
ivclcil ill sii
<1 any iiumv
>rij,'mi(l, 1111(1
• (Iml tVllow
Ulcus to tlic
HINXI.Nd TMK (1I,(
X K illK.
•Jlrt
iniK.Hcd from tin- .sliip f
nmix'li into tli»! Pii
<ll- SCM'lllI llOIII-J
Home
• liiii;,'.'!' of .i(l(liii!,'t\V(. or tl
Tl
iiH III tlu-nirly dusk mihI |
nov.'IticM of tlifir llolv hand PI
»'y liiid til." hiirdiiio(xl to
'iir«' a o;.iriii;t,r,.. They nui
••'• niontli.H niiprisoiiMMMit to tlw oti
itiit tl
sy wt'ut and .■iiiiir siifflv, and
"•asiiiv Kxcur,Hioii, I jid
i»'i
iifv»'r widkcd n stf|i.
iiiirc
'li»'»'k.
'<^u«itiition t
i"in til.' Pilgrims
iitiiifl, .soiiif
icvcrtlicU'Ss,
uiuunity of
L,'iiar<l tlicii
igcrs Hcldoiii
n (liiv-lii,dit,
Icrn inlialii
j leaks truh
•rn sky and
tlm })('nrly
t niarchiii},',
iisnal fscort
idled ii lioat
iverod in a
(inarautine
e were used
we had so
lore, bnt in
:> ji,douni and
AVe rowed
in. we ^.••"v
and ^t,'.l>:i
ive minutes
:hey liijvdly
9 enter] irisc
ire fur tliat.
ul its })irtli
,n old town
t attractive
A H*
lit. i~.0 Wr
y were not
It* i
't
UU.
li
-i. ■ i I
m
CHAPTEK XXXIII.
Ij^KOM Atlions all thro..^i,'li t!,e J«la.uls of tl.o iivedan Archincla-ro
we saw httle l.ut furhuldin,. sea-walln a.ull.an-eu lulls, sometime;
urmounted ,y tlu-oe o.- four graceful ool.mms of son,e unci;ut ta h.
lonely ami desertod- -a fittiu.^^ symbol of the desolation that has com;
upon .d C^reece ,n these latter ages. We sa.- no ploughed fields ^"rv
ew vdlages, no trees or grass or vegetation of any kind, scared ; and
hardly ever an isolated house. Greece is a l>leak, unsmiling cLert
vvithout agriculture, manufactures or commerce, apparently. What
supports Its poverty-stricken pt^ople ov its (Government: is a mystery
1 suppose that ancient Greece and modern (Greece compaml, furnish
lie most extravagant contrast to he found in history, [leorge I., a
nfant of eighteen, aiul a scraggy nest of foreign ofHce holders, sit in the
l^aces of Tiemistocles, Pericles, aiul the illustrious scholars and genen s
of the Golden Age of Greece. The fleets that were the wonde? of the
smacks now, and the manly people that performe.l such miracles of valo"
at Maiathon are only a tribe of unconsidered shnes to-day. The classic
?! ere is nov. .^v "1""- """" T ""'r '^'' '"""^'•^^'' *^"''^«=^'^^l «°"'^ '^'^^l
ft >Sv' ni Hn,? ' T\ '"r f '' ^ ''r\ '^'^'^'''^^y ^'i«"yJ' ••unong them to funiish
o L^ '"J" ^''Tf ' "''""* '*• ^''^••^^' King Otho the revenues
f a i H i ' "r'-^^ve millions of dollars-raised from a tax of onct.nth
ix Wn,!^^ ;7 ^■'':''"'" "'' l*'^^-'^-""'>^^« '"'.V <listance not exceedi.ig
' h.f 31 -i T ^-^t';!^-'*-'"^* taxes on trade and commerce. Out of
that five Millions the small tyrant tried to kec,, an army of ten thousand
men, pay all the hundreds of useless Grand Equerries in Waiting S
Grooms of the Bedchamber, Lord High Chancellors of the ExploS
Exchequer, and all other absurdities which these puppy-kingdoms S Ige
ilHnZ \ ri "^ '^^{^''i monarchies; and L 'alktion he set about
buii ding a ^^hlte marble palace to ccst about five millions itself. Tiie
lusult wa.s simiily ; ten into five goes no times and none over. AU these
things could not be done with five millions, and Otho fell into trouble.
Ihe Greek throne, with its unpromising adjuncts of aragged i.oi.ulation
of ingenious rascals who were out of emplovment ei-dit months i- the
year because, tliere was little for them to borrow and less to confiscate,
MonKUX ORKKCK-IX TH,.: DAUDAXELLKS. 217
various otl.ei- youn..ei so ,Tnf • u ^ ^f''')^ ^^''^' '""l aftenvard.s to
«f business, bu e^UU ul tS ^V'^!" 'l" "" *'""""^« *"«» ^^^'^ out
veneration en t h I; G i, ' ' "f '" ^^'''"^^' ^''^^ ^'"''"'^^ bouor, and
sorrowful rags uuh h-t w itl ' iin M H "''•'^r" ,'" '"^'''''' *« "'"^'^ l>er
-till they came , t ^s • o^i . >^ it'T" ^" ''"^ *VT "' ''"' ^-"'^'i'^tion
tinishod the splondi, nh ;" I s wt^ ^r^*'^^: ''"'^ ''" *""^ '^- H« !''««
n.bt, and is Ln, n.a';;;- o^h^r tl " .;;; ilr'thl^^dl^^'^^^^^^^^^^
pout. Thi/,,art J^^ «; i^; i x n.iiii^.n:''"" ''^ "^"^"-
I'oor as Sahara in ev(.rv tliin-. ,L V ■ , '■^*""*^ I'eninuscences, and
Oardnelles, we coa^ a "^ti^tlain""^'t;'""' '"] ^'-^n-''-'-^ the
the Scan.ander; we saw vvh^n ll ' . , T ' "r'' ^'f* *''" "^""*^' "f
wlK-re it does not st^ md w^- I '^"*"^ ('" ^^"^^ distanoo.) and
was V.Mni.. Th, ;' . T'"" ''*^ '^n* ^"^'"'^^^^'^^ ^^•^"'" t'.e world
ayarie. W,. saw wl.o... 1 ' . ' ^"^'^ '^oon to see our nien-
i^and a n:,„ni:in ^^^.i; r'Z'tjd'w '^ ^r^^T^^ '""^ -''^^^
Hellespont we saw wl e re t L^^'- i ^' T'", ^m"'* ^'^''- ^^'^*'"'^ *>'«
iuhistorv was carried out n d f " /•'* 1'""'^^' '^^"^'''^^'^ '"f'^tioned
•■ebuked'hy Xe"es I sn' i ^ /'"!''" '^^ ' "' ■'**^"^'™^^l l^'"* " «'ently
Xerxes or<L.ed o l'^ 1,,^^ it 'L ^""^'^ ''"'''*^ "^ '"^'^^^ '^'^^^^^
(^vdiere it is only two o t ■■ .il "''"■*''''f l"^''* '^^ t^"' Hellespont
contractors rni^t 1 Im ^ ,^; K'/''"''^!f *'^'^* ^^^ l'"'''''^'^ I'ebuke the
;.enn.ethearn;jandli;£:l t^Z.^^ Sttnl "'7^ T
let a new contract for the hri<hre Jt 1. s I . „ 1 , "'^'" ^"'
writers that the second hvid<ro ly^f I , b; en observed l.y ancient
i;is host of Hve nuii;:;;' on^:,;; i ;3 i;t ;:;;^l f """'^ ^^'-t^
-ic nn.ch good. L^ll^HeHe:^^ r^ '::^.:;rT!:;;l!j' ^'^''f
Bvron swam across +lu „o +« i '-"'^^ ^vJl(le l^eandcr and Lord
merely fin-.i rtvra-, „» Jnok sn ' ""i>.*'" '"'"''' ""l"'"' »"•' "■» "Hi"'-
»iiy a villa,.,, ° ";f„ L,' ^^^' ; "" ";'""' '■""»""■• •■""' »«»»!»•■■
•■'t till w,.™t. « t : , ."r^'v"''"''''-'^ "■", ''fi "II «■-»<• t" i»»k
,fi. ^i.<»,'
;a.*i
i;
•^ .. '
218
AXCIIiiKKlJ liKFOKK CONSTANTINnHI.K.
ill '
m
iiswl to, to get the earliest jiosKiblf glimpse of sti'.iuge foiviifu cities.
TluT an' well o\er tlmt. If w6 were lyiii,;,' in si;,'lit of the Pv'raiiiids of
Kgypt, they would not come on deck until after hi-eakfast, n"o\v-a-days.
TJie (Julden Horn is a nairow arm of the sea, which branches from
tlie Bosi»orus (a sort of l.road river which connects the xMarmora and
Black Seas), and, curvin-j; around, divides the city in the middle.
Galata and Pera are on one side of the IJosjionis. and'the (iolden Horn;
Ktamboul (ancient Byzantium) is uim,ii the other. On the othei' l)ank of
the BosjKjnis is Scutari and other suliui'hs of ('onstantinopl(^ This
great city contains a million inhabitants, but su narrow are its streets.
and so crowded toi^ether are its houses, that it does not cover much'
more than half as mucli <,'i'(mnd as New York City. Seen from the
anchoi-a^e oi- from a mile or so up the Bosjionis, it is" by far the hand
sonu'st city we luive seen. Its dense array of houses swells upward fi-om
the water's edge, and spre.-.ds o\er tlie domes of many hills : and the
gardens that i)eep out here and there, the great glol)es (»f the mowjues.
and the countless minarets that meet the ey(^ i^wry where, invest the
metropolis with the quaint Oriental as])ect one dreams of when he reads
books of eastern travel. ( 'onstantinople makes a noble i)icture.
But its attracti\ eness begins and ends with its picturesqueness. From
the time one starts ashore till he gets back again, he execi-ates it. The
boat he goes in is admirably miscalculated foi- the service it is built for.
It is handsomely and neatly titted up, but no man could handle it well
in the turbulent currents that sweej) down the Bosporus from the Black
Sea, and few men could row it satisfactoi'ily even in still water. It is a
long, light canoe (caique), large at one end'and tapering to a knife blade
at the other. They niiike that long sharji end the bow, and you can
imagine how these Ixnling currents spin it al)out. It has two oars, ami
Hometimes four, and no nuUhu-. You start to go to a given point and
you run in fifty different directions l)pfore you get there. First one oar
is backing water, and then the other; it is seldom that both are i,'oin<>-
ahead at once. This kind of boating is calctilated to drive an impatient
man mad in a Aveek. The boatmen are the awkwardest, the stupidest.
and the most unscientitic on earth, without (pu-stion.
Ashore, it was — well, it was an eternal circus. People were thicker
than l)ees, in tliose narrow streets, and the men were dressed in all the
outrageous, outlandish, idolatrous, extravagant, thunder-and-lightnina
costumes that ever a tailor with the delirium tremens and seven devils
could conceive of. There was no freak in dress too crazy to be indulged
in ; no absurdity too absui'd tt> b- tolerated ; no frenzy in ragged
diabolism too fantastic to be attempted. No two men "were dre'ssed
alike. It was a wild masquerade of all imaginable costumes—every
struggling throng in every street was a dissolving view of stunning
contrasts. Some patriarchs wore awful turbans, but the grand mass of
the infidel horde woi-e the lieiy red skuU-caj. they call a fez. All the
remainder of the raiment they indulged in was utterly indescribable.
The sliops here are mere coops, mere 1»oxes, l)ath-i'ooms, closets an,\
#
A.\ IXiKXIOfS OOOSK n.WCMKI!.
L'li*
Tl.
J''Si 'Z' ti;ir z 'f ^"7 ?^ ^i-" ''^^ "-"•• • - ^ '"■=- - -•<-
Ml'c Ml-, T 1 mi CI, UK ,111(1 siiiukt' loiiij iniieP. .-iik smc 1
1 o -« n,, lm,„|,k,„ ».,„!». ,„„| „ |„„„|,,„, „„„.,. ,|,;„„;.\,,,| .."li™ ■^^•,
_ ul jiiust li.ue look... wlicii tlioy walkrd fo.tli from tlieir ,r,,,v(.s .iini.!
tS^i S:; r , ' (V'''^':: ■'!"' -••^"luakes tl.at l,urst upon (^d;;: -'Zt
con.ei., .vitli .-iiiys l.alf lifted and neck s;;:;^i , '^i^ tn^id ':
goose-,„orclia,vt get excited? No. H- took liis pole Tn "eaei.ed f e •
}..nked hun back to Ins place in the flock xvitliout an ..flbr H
steered h. ^ese witl^liat stick as easilv as another ^Li^.; ^ te.i''
UK mujst ot tlie turmoil, sound as eci) in the sun wifl, Im. ,
squatting around hin, or dodging out of it ^J^'^^ "Z^. a d mn ''^'
came liv agam within the hour, and he was takin./^^ii « s ock t
J^e udietlu.- any of his H,>ck had strayed or beo-n sU;i;.:^T u- wa lu d ^
t^usunuiue Ileputtheend of his stick within six <.reoS .J
tl;:t:;;'ing.'^,:^""'^''"'"^'"^^'""^- ""™^ •'^■- ''^'"■■•"-- - ^^^^^^^^
If you Avant dwarfs I mea.i just a fcNv .Iwarfs for a curiosity ..<. to
f>ters, both, go straight to Constantinople. A b,>ggar in Na,,l es who cnn
show a foo which has all run into one horril.le'^;. w th iie s^ X
"ail on It. has a fi,rtnne^-bnt such an exhibition aAlu^ v d ^t , r"
m M ,u "^ TT "\ ^■«-^-'^-'-I'J^'- The n>an would sta vc Wh wj 1
im any attention to attractions like his among the rare monsters tl
.1
:ilM
6i»*i
220
MARVKLLors ClfllM'LKS — THK (illEAT MOSQLK
I i
m.
!(..U
t .ro.,,^^ tin, hri<|^,e,s ot tlio (Joldeu Horn an.l .lisplav tlu>ir .lefcrniitks m
the gutt:;r.s of Stambou I O, wn.tclie.l ivnpostui- ! How could he stand
a^auist tue three k-ge, woman, and the man with his eye in Jiis cheek 1
How would he blush „i the presence of the man with timbers on his
elbow I Where would he hid., hi.nxelf when the dwarf with seven hn-
.yers on each hand, no upper lip, an.l his under-jaw ,^rone, can>e down in
ma,,.,sty I 13.snnllah ' The cripples of Euroi.s are a delusion an.l a
ti.m.l. lh<" tiuly -dted ilo.insh only in the byways of Pera and Stani-
That thrce-leg-ed woman lay ou the brid-e, with her stock in trade so
dispos.-,! as to command the most striking elfect^ one natural leg, and
tu-o long, slender, twiste.l ones, with feet on them like somebodv" else's
toie-ar.n. Iu;mi theiv, w.n a uxxn furtlr.n- along who had no eves, and
^^lo.e i,ee was the color of a lly-blowii beefsteak, and wriukie.l an.l
tu^,.elhjC(>al:iva-How--:uid verily so tumbled and 'distorted were his
e:uures^t^at no man em.ld tel! the wart tha,t served him fov a nose f^-om
.us ehee,v-l.on<^s. [n .^tauiboul was a man with a i.rodigious hea.l an
uucomn.only long body, legs eight inches long and teet like sn.,w-shoeH
He nrveled on tl.use i;..t an-L his hands, an.l was a. swaved-backe.l as if
tlie ( c,h,ssus ot Jlhodes ha,l bee)i ri.ling him. Ah, a beggar has to have
excetMhngly good ponits t.) n.ake a, living in Constantinople. A blue-
bi'.ed man, who had nothing t.) oiler excej.t thnt he had been blown up
ni a n.me, would be r.-^arded as a rank impostor, and a mere dama-e.l
soldier on crutches would ifever make a cent. It would pay him to°et
a, piece ot his head taken off, an.l cultivate a wen like a carj.et sack. "^
lue Mos,pie of .St. .S..pliia is the chief lion of Caustantinonle. You
muse g(,.t a hi-niaii and hurry there the finst thing. We did that Wo
did not g<^t a lirinan, but we to.,k along four or five francs apiece, which
IS much the sam.^ thing.
•reni ]\T ^''"^'""':{''^ ^he Mos.p.o of St. Sophia. I suppose I lack
. V]. ee.ation. Wj will h-t ,t go at that. It is the rustiest ol.l barn in
lieatheiidom. I BMieve all the interest that e.ttaches to it comes from the
tact that It was built for a Ciiristian ehurch and then turne.i. into a,
nosque without much alteration, by the Mohammedan conquerors of the
lan.l. Ihey made me take off my boots aud'walk into the idaee in mv
stoccmg-feet. I caught c.l.l, and got myself so stuck up with a com,.!!-
u tion ot gums, shine and general corruj.tion, that I wore out more than
tvo thousan.l pair of boot-jacks getting my boots off that night, and even
then some ( hnstian hule peele.l olf with them. I abate not a sin-de
ooot-jack. '■'
•St. «ophia is a colossal church, thirteen or fourteen hundred vears old
luid unsightly enough to 1.3 vry, ve.y much ol.ler. Its imnumse dome
s saul to be more w.jiulerful than St. Peter's, but its dirt is much moi-e
^\o.l,l;,r^uI than its dome, though they never mention it. The church ku;
-•1 Jnindreo and seventy pillars in it. each a single piece, and all of costly
marbles of various kinds, but they came from ancient temple.s at
Baalb.3c, Hdmpolis, Athens and Kphesus, and are battered, ugly and
epuisive. ri.ey were a thous.ni.l y.-ars old when this churcli Nvm new
TIIK (ilUCAT MOSQn:.
0-)
-21
and then the coutntst must have been <AvistW if i .• • .
did not trnn theni any. The in^kk. f "t .'1 ' '~ Jj'^tni.an'.s arcliit«ots
H monstrovs inscription in Turkis d .. '"'' " ^""■'"' '^" '''■''' ^-''it''
thatlooksas.hu.in.asaoir!,rhil h^^^^^^^^^^^^ ''?"'''* '" -"''^ "'««="^%
trades are all battenul -.ml ,1 tv H *''^ '"'^'^''l'^"* «»d the marble bahis^
by a wel> of n,K.rt^ rdS'f^;;;';^;:';^^-^'-^^ -urred even- .-here
3ns,,e,Hl countless din-y Ti o T ''"'-''*^ ''* ^'"^ ^'"""% an.l
Hud far an<l near, .-ere ra!'" Tn ! " "l^ "I .'^'7"1'^ J'-- ■•uul there
or n.eiyin, lessons like cliS en' 'ii n S^ ik;:'^' '^""'"^ ^^'^ '
same sort bo^vin- and strai-hteni, , V ' ' ^'■■'' '''''"' "'ore of the
to kiss the earU, nnit^::;.:^^ ^^J^^ll rwlS^^^'-Vr'^ ^^""'^ '^-'n
gymnastics till they ou^ht tJ Lu4 been^r^ f Vl"'' ^'"^"''" "i" *''^"-
Rvery '.vhere ^yas dirt -nd ,h,lr' ^''^'^ ^^^^ not.
where were -.ns of a iL^^ „ ^li -u"',; I'^Sir ' 7" ^'-'" ' --'7
beautiful about it; eyery where C'Vl ""*^""- to"<^')'i'"-f oV
-orhead the ;,u,dy mo^u^^anVr^ rof;::^" "' '"''^^''^ ^'^^^^^^^^
there any thin- to win one's loye o. el, I. "V '','"'"'--"'™''"''-^' ^^'^^
The people wh., .o into e st es oyJi tt ' r ''''"--^i""-
out of th.^i,mide-book (where eyevvnl i ' ^''! "'""^' "'"•^'y ,!,^«t them
«iclered by good Judgei^Irb! X^^^oJ^tai: T"'"'?' '" ^'^'"^ " «-
respects that the old' world has c^ye r^n") (t"? "T'''''' "^ '"="'>•
connoisseurs fr,),u the wilds of l^L V ^ '' *'"^>' ■""•'^ '^'^ose old
diiference betw..en a fre a d L< nr'' " '^^'^-'-'^'y l^arn the
feel priyile.ed to void thdr ^ L;^.! ;: S^f^"' f''^"^ ^''^t day forwai.!
architecture foreyer more. 'uthos on pauitmo, sculpture and
We yisited the Danein^- Dervi\J,.^v Ti
They wore a Ion. light-coloi: 1 ^ ? .b '^^^ T" "TT^-T "' ^''-"•
m ]us turn Avent nn to the „,.;,>.//;. ^'""'-^ *" <''f'"" ''•''■'^i. Kacli
-ili".) and bowel? ,::f^.^l,fe; ^^^ '''-^^''^'^"^ ^ '^^- -->-
and took his appointkl place in t he ciin i ' ""- ''^^'^^ deliriously
^^'1 1-d spun tl/emselye tl i 1 ;f ■;,;":\r''^^'\'''''^ *".«P'"- When
;vpart-an,l so situated, the ^n ire ;^He ,7; '''•''^""'* ^''' "'' ^^'^^ ^e*
In'ce separate times ammd t^K^ ^>o ;:'%f ^o'T;'"^ '''^:"^' -uu itself
do It. They spun on the left fo t ^m ' 1,1 ''^ *^;-^^'^^y-'\vo niinutes to
t^e ri.ht rapidly before it and dtn" i^' ^,- '"'"f " 'T^ ''>' l""-?
of them ,nade incredible - time "Mo of";' '"^"^ *^"""- '''"'»^'
;n a minute, and on3 artist a';;.! J ^^o xK "^""!/^^'^'"' ' ^^'^y ti>»OH
kept itupdurin..the whole t^ye ^^^ Lt T^s v n/'',"''^'^ "''""'■'^' ••"^^'
out all around him like a ballof' ' '"'" *'"'''^ ^^'^^^' '"'' '"^'' -^"od
ba^Xuitn;:s:;:s'":^^':i;;a'^'' ;y^^* ^^ ''t '^'^^^ *^'- ^'-^«
There was a rude k ,,^of m f ^.;':i)^,^ «ort of d.yotioa d oostacy.
were not visible None b nt « ' ^ ^ * '° *'"''• ^^''^ *''- "Hisicians
-nhaa toeitr5:;^^i?;oSir'-\t'r!Y^*r'^t°^'^^'«- "
exhibition as a^ have witnesse 1 vet Tl 1 ^^^ ^^"^ ''' l':u-barous an
down, and beside them «" idteir^lek H ^^ ^'"T^ ''''' '^"'' '^^^
^-g ami the patriarch of IT^ ^^:^ t!}^ .!-: ^^^
nA.
'^)*'
!'i-i
•^iffljk
t^A ,
ny ■
■--- Tin; oxi: THorsAXu and dxk ((jlumn.s.
Ho was hU))i)useil to euro tJioir disoasos by tminiiling upon their Ju-easts
or backs or ,staiulin<,' on tlie back of tlioir nocks. Tliis is well enough
for a pwjj.lo wlio think all their affairs are made or marred by viewhTss
-spirits of the air— by giants, gnomes, and genii— and Avho still believe
to this day, all the wild tales of the Arabian Nights. Even so an
intolligent missionary tells mo.
We visited the Thousand and ( )ne ( 'ohimns. 1 do not know what it was
originally intended for, but they said it was built for a reservoir. It is
situated in the centre of ('onstantinoi)lo. You go down a iliii:ht of stono
stoi)s in tlu^ middle of a barren place, and there' vou are. You are forty
feet under ground, and in the midst of a perfect wilderness of tall,
slender, granite coluimis, of Byzantine itrchitectiue. Stand where you
would, or change your position as often as you ])lease(l, you were always
a centre from which radiated a dozen long archways and colonnades that
lost tliemselves in distance and the sombre twilight of the place This
iAd dried-up reservoir is occupied by a few ghostly" silk-spinners now, and
one ot them showed me a cro.ss cut high up in one of the pillars J
suppose ho meant me to understand that the institution was there bi.'fore
tlie iurkish occupation, and T thought he m uo a remark to that effect ;
but lie must have had an iinpedimont in his speech, for I did not
understand him.
We took off our .shoes aiul went into tJio marble mausoleum of the
.Sultan 3rahmoud, the neatest piece of architecture, inside, that I have
.seen lately. Mahmoud's toml, xvas coveivd with a black velvet pall,
which was elaborately ombroi.lored with silver ; it stood within r. fancv
silv(>r railing ; at the sides and corners were sih er candlesticks that
wouhi ^v,Mgh more than a hundred pounds, and thev supported caudles
as large as a man's leg ; on the top of the sarcophagus was a fez, with .-i
laiKsomo diamoiul ornament upon it, which an attendant said cost a
hundred thousand puunds, and lied like a, Turk when ho said it. Mah-
mouds whole family were comfortably planted around him.
We wont^to the great Bazaar in .Stamboul. of course, and I .shall not
describe it further than to .say it is a monstrous hive of little .shoi.s^.
housands 1 should .say- -all uiuler one roof, and cut up into innumerable
little blodvs by narrow streets which are arched ovi^vhcad. Ono street
is dt.-oted to a particular kind of merchandise, another to another, and
so ou. When you wish to buy a pair of shoes vou have the swing of
the whole street^-you do not have to walk yourself down hunting stores
m dilierent localities. It is the same with silks, antiquities, shawls, etc.
Ihe place ,s crow<lod with people all the time, and as the gay-colored
Eastern tabrics are lavishly dis|,layed befoiv everv shop, the great Bazaar
ot btamboul IS one of the sights tli.at are worth «HHng. It is full of life,
and s ir. and business, dirt, boggars, asses, yellijig peddler.^, porters,
dervishes, Ingh-born Turkish female slioj.ners, (Ireeks, and weird-looking
and weirdly drassod Molmmmedans tvom the mountains and the far
provinces—and the only solitary thing one does not smell when he is in
tfie irreat Bazaar, is something wiiich smells -olhI.
^^HAPTKK XXXiy.
Muhununedan. to .Irink. Th4 ntn, '..a . V''"" '^"^''^ ''"* P^'^'^'^t
amounts to l.i.ra.nv^ Ft ,.. ,l '"' ^ iHi.idred wives. Tiiis i.linost
I^ake, liowever. ' " ^^ ' *'" '"^t '""I'l it .so nuicli in .Salt
I'arontsXl\i^^mEy '' tS T^.^'V"''' '" ^'"»«t"»tinQ].l. I.y thnir
c-.'iticis,xl au.l ,liscM,sse,l j t if' ,7. 'V ', ''"^'I'^'^ ^^^' inspection, an,l
-no longer exist. Ti^ ox , hi S^ '7 r'"''" f '"^ "^•'^'^••Iturai fid,-
^^tooks are npjust at nr^^ent t^^^^^ *'"/^'^ *'« are private now.
•>y the reo,.nt return of tl e s'u t ^ -,^ Se" 'f' i^ ^''''^ ''^'"'^^"'^ ^'-^'^t^d
l"»J'tly on account of an uuu uU 'd nn T\ *'"' '''''''^' ''^ '^'"-oi'^ ;
l'ocler,s untorti,red by 1 , 'e • Ll il''"';,'^ ''"-ad-stuffs, which leaL'
Pnc^s; and partly f.ecau.sf k v ,s are T '" - .'^^ ^''"'^ ^'" ^"'''^^
iSLAVK (Jlh'I. MAI.'KKT HKl'OUT.
''-||<u;:Sit:^^^^^ ^^r^ '«^- ^^^0' ^^^^. ^^->. ,,.t
sola m small lots to .k;.. oul:' ^i^ ^Jt t '^"' ''"' "" ^''"^"''^ ' ^-^-» I'>^'aeA*i
iiiostlx last year's rn.M, wliirli «•,. ,i , , i '" -'^'"' •"■'"■gW'is now oii ]iaii"l ..ri'
''«''>in'ts an^nost ...oounr^i, '/ , In . ^^:'-'''-' '''^ 'l"antity au.l .n.alitv tit
4
h
'^Hii
.,''H
'";'f'»;
Jjtali
fm
4
224
Sf'AR(;iTV OK MOHALS AND WHISKKV.
I tliiiik tilt" ahovo ^vouI(n.P about tin- stvic of tlu" ooiniiici-oiiil fcpurt
PriccH arci pretty higli now, and holders tiriii ; but, two or tlnvc vcars
ago, pun-nts ni a starving condition l)rought their young daugliters down
here and sold them foi- even twenty and thii-tv dollars, when thev could
do no better, simply to save themselves and the girls from dyin-' of
want. It IS sad to think of so distressing a thing as this, and T for'^one
am sincerely glad the prices are up again.
Con.mercial morals, especially, are bad. Tlu'iv is no gainsaying that
GreeK, lurkish and Armenian morals consist onlv in attendiii-' church
z-cgularly on the appointed Sabbaths, and in breaking the ten coieuiand-
mentH all the Italance of the week. It comes natural to tliein to lie and
cheat in the first ])lace. and then they go on and improve on nature
until they arrive at perfection. In recommending his son to a niercliant
as a valuable salesman, a fotlier does not say he is a nice, moral, upri-dit
boy, and goes to Sunday School and is honest, but lie says, " This boy
IS worth his ^veight in broad pieces of a hundreti— for l)eliold, lie will
cheat wlionisoever hatli dealings with him, and from the Euxine to the
waters of Marmora there abideth not so gifted a liar!" How is that for
a recommendation ? The ntissionaries tell me that tliey hear enconiunis
like that passed upon people every day. Tliev say of a person thev
admire, « Ah, he is a charming swindler, and a most e.xquisite liar '" "
Every body lies and cheats— e\ery body who is in business at any
nite. Even foreigners soon have to come down to the custom of tli'e
country, and they do not buy and sell long in Constantinople till thev
he and cheat like a Greek. I say like a Greek, because tlie Greeks are
called the worst transgressors in this line. Several Americans loii<' resi-
dent in Constantinople, contend that most Turks are prettv trustworthy
but few claim that the Greeks have any virtues that a man can discover
— at Ici'.st without a lire as.say.
I am half willing to believe that tlu* celebrated dogs of (bnstantinople
have been misrein-escnted- slandered. I have alwavs been led to suppose
that they were so thick in the streets that they blocked the Avay ; that
they moved about in organized companies, jilatoons and reginieiits and
took what they wanted by determined and ferocious assault ; and that at
nightthey drowned all other sounds with their terri))Ie howlin"s The
dogs T see here can not be those I have read of.
I find them everywhere but not in strong force. The most I ha^■e
found together has been aVwut ten or twenty. And night or day a fair
proportion of them were sound asleep. Those that were not asleep
alvyays looked as if they wanted to be. I never saw such utterly
wretched, starving, sad-visaged, broken-hearted looking curs in mv life
It sjenied a gTim satire to accuse such buites as these of takin" thin-s
by force of arms. They hardly .seemed to have strength enoiudi or
ambition enough to walk across the street- -I do not know that I have
seeii one walk that far yet. They are mangy and bruised and mutilated.
and otten you see one with the hair singed off him in such wide and well
dehned tracts that he looks like a map of the new Territories Thev
««JC1AL STATtS (.1- THK noos.
:|
22.->
healthier 4 'anJ';L"l4:3^;' ^'^.^ '^'f" -"^^" •"' ^
saM- a dog of tl.is kin.l ,st,u-t\o nib Jeat n fl. ' ^^^ "•"'^^■*'>' '
"ttont.on, und J^e made u sn..tch ■ L ,, ^^''--'\l>' 'Attracted Ids
more, and tJ.at forever un.settl M , Le L T "'/I '""^'•' ^^"^ ^'"" ""^-'^
hen sadly looked at hi.s bald ot 'H ^^^^^^^ "^ 'V'^ «<-l-..st,u.e.
his head resiguedlv uj.on hi.s „a\vs H • t '' '■.' "-^' ''''"^ *''»J'1><"1
The do..s sleep^in he .st-'ee "n o v e • "? '"1"^' *'^ *''^ •'^^*»"t'0"-
«treet to the other, I sm,,>, e th'e m-H ' "'^''■. , ^^■"»' ^""" ^'"1 "^ the
Sometimes, of oon-'se, thl e re fik^^ o \u"^'! 't' "' '"'' "' " '''«'J^'-
"ot helor. to any body, and tl ev s /^ "'/L H '^ ""''^- ''''" ■^- ''"
sJups among eaeh oth^r. li„t t"he^- dis rie 1 1 1 . !!" ''*'''•'"""' ^"'•'■''■"l-
;h.gs of eaeh district, .vhether it c' 1 If 1 11 "*^^ themselvs. and the
have to mnain within its bounll ^Lu'^'t'irT''' "" '"'\ '•'"^^"•
His ne.ghl.ors would snatch the Inhmce of 1 ; " i'' "■•'""^•^ t^'^" ^"i<' •'
It is said. But the.y don't look it ''' ^'""" "" '" ''^ «^«^»^»- '^o
rhey sleep in the streets these iU ti
g^uch. When I see the do^^s et^ , ' ci )l. '' /'V "'^^' -''^•"r''««-n,v
and all moving thin-s tur ont ,^ , ^ ' T\ '''''^'« "'^"' ^heep, geese
ii , * •wiJij,^ mill out and "o aroimrl flir.r,, t i t ^ ' '■< ^'^>
«ie great street where the hotel is ml Z 7 \} ^^'""^^" ^ '^"i "ot in
R"P the dogs have a ^ort of nV nf ' . ,^" ^'"■^^"^'■- ^ii the (fraud
heing obliged to ^t':;^ :i ?^ ^i.v"f^::;;.f '"^'""*~^" >-• '-- «f
that expression one recognizes nmomet'rrr'^'' "'''^ ^'=^>'-'"^''
face of any dog witho,^ the cUines ,f l] f' '/"^■■^' "'^^ ^^-^''^t i.pon the
I' --acidly and keep no ^vateh Th ^ wo,, *'f ''''"'■ , ^^" «t''^'-« «leep
hnnself passed by ' ' ""•''• "^'^ '"^'^'i'' though the Sultan
i4 ^;iod'™bo:r:^!:;-;-;:j|'->f '^ r'^^^^ -- 1''- ^'ogs
hey just bridged the street neatl ft m'.utf'' " '"'^ *^'^^^' '='>'' "'^'1 "•
liundred sheep came alou- T .V' Z ^ -^ *" »"*'^"''- ^^- ^''-'^ve of a
crowding thJ front, hll^iej'^ :Sr' 'S! T' ^'V'T' ^'^^ -^''
flinched a little when the inn.atlenrf.l V ^/he dogs looked lazilv up.
badc^sigh.!, and lay peaS^d .^ .^^ f" J^i^jf '•^'if/'^^l^ --
than that. So some of the sheen' iumu'^fJ n f i , '"'!"''' ^^' l'^'^'"^'''
between, oc.asionally chinpir^^ a W l' ;i '''\'"''^ ''^^'''' «^-'-'"i^hled
the whole flock h.-l made 1 fei,' the do *^"'"" f'7 ^^'^^f"' '"^'^ -hen
of dust, but never bud^e I } e' k. e ^^, T'^r^J^ '''"«' "' *''^ ^■'"'"I
hut I am a steam-eu^dn camnare 1 ;. f \ i-*''""'^''* ^ ^^•■'^'^ ^^'^v,
i;osit;::;al:;faWdteitr^.^.^"i^ .^l- is^hdr o^i^al
';«
H!/
^ !j
•22C)
PKIIILS ()!■ JOlllXALlSM IX 11 ItKKY.
grades luul species of dirt iind refuse to tlieir own dead fiicnds and
relatives—and yet they are always lean, always liun-jry, always
desi)ondent. Tlu? people are loath to kill tlieni do not kill (hem, "in
fact. The Turks have an innate antii>athy to takinu; the life of any
duinl) animal, it is said. Hut they do wor.se. They han.i,', and kiek, and
stone, and scald these wretched creattu'es to the very wv^^c of death, and
then h'ave them to live and snfl'er.
Once a Sultan proposed to kill otl" all th(Mlo;j;s here, and did hei^in
the work- hut the poj)ulace raised such a howl of horrcjr ahout it that
the massacre was stayed. After a while, la^ proposed to remove them
all to an island in the S/a of ^[arnu)ra. Xo olijection was ofiered, and
a shiitdoad or so was taken away. Jiut when it came to he known that
somehow or other the dogs never got to the island, hut always fell
overhoard in the night iind [H'rished, another howl was niised and tla^
transportation scheme was drojtped.
Ho the dogs remain in peaceable possassion of the streets. T do not say
that they do not howl at night, nor that they do not attack people who
have not a red fez on tlieir heads. I only say that it would l)e mean for
me to accuse them of these itnseendy things who have not s;-en them do
them Avith my own eyes or heard them with my own eais.
^ I was a little suri)ris(Hl to si-e Turks and (Ireeks playing newsboy
right here in the my.sterious land where the giants and'gcMii of the
Arabian Xights onco dwelt-- where winged horses and hydra-headed
dragons guarded enchanted castles — v.-hei'e Princes and Piincesses tl(!w
throngh the air on cai'pets that olteyctl .i magic talisman — where cities
whose houses were made of precious .stones sprang up in a niuht nndei-
the hand of the magician, and wh(>re busy marts were smhhnily stricken
with a spell and each citizen lay or sat, or stool with weapoi'i raised or
foot advanced, ju.st as he was, speechless and motioidess, till time had
told a luuidred years !
It was curions to see new.sboys selling pa])ers in ho dreamy a land as
that. And, to say truly, it is comparatively a nciw thiiigheri". The
selling of news[)aiiers had its birth in Constantinople abont a year ago,
and was a child of the Prussian and Austrian wa!\
There is one paper iniblished here hi the English language— ?%« Levant
Herald — and there are generally a number of (Jreek and a. few Fi-ench
papers rising and falling, struggling up and falling again. Newspapers
are not poj)ular with the Sultan's (.Tovernmont. They do not understand
jnurnalism. The proverb says, "The unknown is always great." To
the court, the new.spaper is a mysterious and rascally institution. Thev
know what a pestilence is because they have one occasionally that thins
the; people out at the rate of two thousand a day, and they regard the
newsimper as a mild form of pestilence. WliVn it goes astray, they
suppress it— pounce u])on it without warning, and throttle it. When it
don't go astray for a long time, they get susi)icious and throttle it
anyhow, bocauso they think it is hitching deviltry. Imagine tlie Grand
Viiier in solemn council with the magnates' t)f tla; realm, .spelling his
-^^ of thin,: l.l,t tlj::,ito'r;tls J'"'"''"" '"^ "'' ^'^^ "'^^ ^-- ^l-
of .ad. o/lier. No v c , S 7r ?' "^I'l^'^'^^^-l ''"'•*' ^vitlu. a li^v .lavs
'Hlitor knows h.ttcr ho sti ,1/ '""' ^/,^"l'i"vs.so,l, uu.l ,ilthauyh th it
>;>.ltan, who < J. not^vl ;':,'' .:;,^;;™- ^^.'- !-I'-l- with tho
'•o.u tl,e An„,.nc-uu Cousul i,x • ,' r^'. "^ '"7 "'"'"'•"^'^' <""-'•-
<loUnv, for it. Shortly lu . ■ „t . l" ' 1 '"""'' ^'^''^ '""^'''•<"l '"''' lifty
<"litor.shi,, of the Lrrn.t /Av 'V ' r ., '"'''* ^'^ ^'"' "^^'■^t^^'it
without it. ' '^ ' ""^ -""1^' *" f'y t„ v/orrr ,iIon,^
Paper, ar. suppressoa theiS eveiT ll T '"^'^^'■'"1"-' ">'" ^hat Icia,].
there, just as th.y are elsewl.n-o Tjiev t H^ , ' h.w.s hoys ar. s.u.ut
He«ses. When thev lin.l th' v ^ > uu^UlfV T'-' "^ '"^i'"'^^'' ^^'^'^k-
-ti-u .nysteriousl>, au,! t: i^a't' v i^. " T ^. ^r' "'^'^ '^''"^'r^^^ '^
l'"ce; i.aiK.r just 1.3m suiMu-ossel '" t1 ~ '^'■^tcoj.y, sir: JouWo
ti.uls uothiu. in it. ThevM^s'tv J.h>, r"'''\ ';'"^''- ^'' '^^ -">"'■-, a :ul
tl'at niou sometimes ,,rint v ^H i 'f 'p""'' ^"'' ^^- ''^"^ *''"^3- -lo .ay
>.eaitious article in it .list ril .t. if v " J"'"'- ''''^' '' l'''-'>^'ionslJ
^o.t..ountto anythiu. .^.r;;:;;; -^^i^ Jiir^-;;; ^^;-i-i-
^^^£sj: ^''^hr;miS;:V::3;;i;:^.i:5^^:..'- i^ ... ....t;
idee.l. o^ttuu^^ udi ^..ry il'lih:n-a(.,Iy_ v.-ry
<Ieliberately iiuleed.
I never sliall M-aut another
Turkisli h
-- in the little i^^ZZ^^^S^lu:;'', T^ ^^^^•^';i' ''i'i--^'-
street. Tlie cook was sloveuh h .n ' ' /^ ''"' "" "^P^''^ ^o the
on it. The fellow took a ma^^of '^i ^T l" 't'"' '"^'^ "' '''^'^ '"^ ^^^'^'^
'^"'1 lai'l it on a charcoal ii e to co^ '^'^^^^^^^^ ^"''/^^•' '^ '•'>'""' - vdre
'^»'J a clog walked sadly in 4d nin H it 7 '' ''u ''"'"' '^^' '^^'"^ '^ '^''^''^
fecogui.ed the remai:Jof a ?:!,! J^ 'if^ I ,^ "'" V ^'''^V' "^"'^^'''^
laid It before us. Jack said " I xyJ' i , "'^ ' ''""''y ^''"'' ''^'^^ '^^d
'"'iiffl
228
Tin; wiKiim.i iiiAcn.
ihi^
gmiHtd it well witli tlic HauNiii;*', ami stnrtcd towiiids its witli it. It (Imp-
l^il ill the dirt, and lie jiickcd it up and jiolishcd it on liis lirccflifM. and laid
it befoiv us. Jack said, " [ pa.ss." We all pa.sscd. Iln put .sonu^ v<i>;s in
!i fVyinj,^ pan, and stood pfiisivi-ly pr.vin.i,' slalis of meat from hetwrnMriiis
tctitli with a fork. Tlicn ho usod Uw. fork to tui'ii tlio (•i,';;s with an<l
broii,u;ht them along. Jack said " Tass again." All followed .suit. \Vv
did not kn')\v what to do, and so wt! ordorcd a now ration of Huusagc.
Tlw cook got out his v.iiv, apportioned a proper ainoimt of .sausagc-nieat,
wpat it on his linnds and fell to work ! This time, with one accord, w('
all i-assed out. We j.aid and left. That is all 1 learned ahout Tin'kish
lunches. A Turkish luncli is good, no rlouht, hut it has its littl,.
drawbacks.
Wlien J tliiidv how I have bei i swindled l.y hooks of Oriental travel,
I want a tourist for l)reakl;!st. For years and ye;irs J have dreamed oi'
tho wonders of tho 'Jurkish bath ; for yeans an(i years I hav(> promised
myself that I would yet enjoy one. Many an<l many a time, in fiuicv.
Naive lain in the niaibl(! bath, and bi'eathed the sluinbrous fragrance ot'
Ka.stern spices that tilled the air; then ]mHsed tJirougli a weird and com-
plicated sy.stem of pulling auU hauling, and drenching and .scr>d)l)iug, by
a gang of naked savages who kiojned vast and vaguely througli 'the
wteaming juists, lik(^ demons; then rested for a while on a\livaii fU for ii
king; then j'assed tlirough another conijilcx ordeal, and one more fearful
than the first ; and, finally, swathed in soft fabrics, been conveyed to a
princely .saloon and l;tid on u bed of eider down, where euuncI>s,'gor"'eous
of costume, fanned nie while I di'owsed and dreamed, or co'nten'tcdly
gazed at the ricli hangings of the apaitment, the .soft cari>cts. the
.sumptuous furi.iture, the pictures, and drank delicious coHee, snioki^d the
soothing narghili, and dioj.ped, a'; the last, into tranipiil rejjose. 1u11(m1
by ^er.suons odoi's from un.seen consers. by the gentle intluenc c of the
uarghili's Persian tobacco, iind liy the music of fountains that eountei-
feited tho pattering of siunmer rain.
That was the picture, just as 1 got it from incendiary books of travel.
It was a poor, miserable imposture. Tlie reality is no" more like it ihan
the Five Points are like tho Garden of Eden." They received me in a
great court, paved witli marble slabs ; around it were broad galleries, one
above another, carpeted with seody matting, railed with nniiiinted
Jialustrades, and furnished with huge rickety chairs, cii.shioned with rustv
old mattresses, indented with impressions left by tlie foriUK of nine
.successive generations of men who had re])osed upon them. The place
vas va.st.^ naked, dreary ; its court u l)arn, its galleries stalls for human
horses. The cadaverous, half nude varlets that served in the establish-
ment had nothing of poetry in their appearance, notliing of romance,
nothing of Uriental yplendor. They slujd no entrancing oilor.s— just the
contrary. Their hungry eyes and their lank forms continually suggested
one glaring, unsentimental fact—they wanted what they term in CaFifornia
-•a square meal."
I went into one of the racks and undressed. An unclean starveling
TIIK TCKKISM IIATII,
'•"|'I"-rt . ACnu.ly tal.l,M.Ul, al-out Lis 1
-".VNl.unM.Ts. If 1 UI l.a.l a t.,1, tl
loins, ntiil Imiii,' a \vliit(
III" to tiiko ill was]
'iiii;f. I was t
'"'II. It Wdiil.l lia\
2!(
la'' (ivrr
f roiiH' imtiiial to
^lil'pi'iy (VMin. and tlm «i-st t]
JK'f'Is. ■ My fall cxcitcil
"'"••'""'"'•ti'-ldov,, stairs into tla.'urt
in;,'M tliat attnictod
hcl
""^'•''1 ill (lie list of ,suff.-i
no <><,inin..ut. Tli..y ,.x|„ ,.(.".1
liiy atlfiitioii Was my
•UK' of Kast
''111 liiMirv. It w
iiii;.r. M'lisuoiis ii
i|'|'li<'iitii)ii was ii(,t liapii'v. 'I
■as H(
.ft(
Ik'IicI
It. nil doiilit. It
illiifiiccs |ic('iiliar lu fids
•lun- ..n.Mi.,di, (•(■I'tainlv. lait its
"■^ 111 iiiiuiatiiiv, wit), l,.,.,t|
'I'-y iiow n-avc ni.-a pair of m-.,,.,!
'^vlu■(•ll tl„.y xvoidd Iiav/' d
tfiiiii.
on
!i<'i' hlraps (ivcr (i„.ni t
l''ll clo-
» (laiiiiii
''• only r d(, ,„,(
o funtiiH" ni>,- Wri
;iiid caiuc d
'<! iiiu'oinfoHal.ly l,v t'ji,. st
wca
r Si). 1 ;
own m awkward and ni
I'lips wla'n I lift,.,]
lest'
o'"; iif,'ain. an.l s.a.M-tinM's Innicd sid
K'.xia'ctcd j.lacrs wlim I put tl
.) Tl
ip inv feet,.
"It of joint. If
'■onid to cnjov it.
ow.'vvr. It was all Onn.tal 1
ways and wivncdu-d
K'ln oil
iiiv ancles
"■^i"T, "ltd f di.l wii;.(, I
lli(>y ,Mitni.' iiianotlM'rpart oftla' 1
■'t I'idlcf, wind
was nicff
'^H'li and laid n
I" on a
stiill
.V r ;;™,;:;:: ':;::!: :'yi""' ^^.i ...■ .v.;:;;,;,;:-;
M'lai'tci-s of All.
niqin'tcndii
I'Sisuii l.iit tivc III
Kaiisa.s.
ore
^ort <.f tliiii.r 1 I
lici
mvtt sffii ii, t]„
"■x
^;<'iis
)f tl
I CSC
■<• was notliino; v.-hatcN,.,. {„ tld.s ,l
y sort
N, hut
Uf'l'O
iicrs.
It w
!'-*'t.'<l tli.-it tl... spiced oilors of M,0>y
-'•■^ i'<)w. I,,,f tiny ,Iid not. A
iin a vcrv .s(,I(
iini iii.'Li'ltIn
iiin ]»l,:c.
were ^01,10. to steal ov
'ii'oiind liiiii, iipoii-dit
I'.'IH' n. tin- to], of it. and a pi
I'Kvctoit.
It was the f(
iiie a <,dass decaliter of uat
'■opper-colored skeleton, witl
I'liant stciu a v;iiil 1
■1'. H-itli a li.!,dite(l t
>ii,y, witli a li!'uss
■'■r 11
I .-I, r
<<nafC()
nioiitli-
1
•y
•'•s in tliejiietiiivs. Tiiis 1
Mriuk
I'liiHt at it. and' it
into niy stoiiia.ch. my 1
li'ions -nai-Iiili-'of the East the thi
v.as sntMciLiit ; tl
"'.i-'Mii to look like I
'ii'X the < fraud Turk
lie smoke w(>nt ii
uMirv,
I tfudv
(•ne
I <'xjdoded
thv
o
iiii/,'.s, even into the utt(
ic min^hty c(Mi;.-l,, and it w
1 H great ^•ohlnle down
nnu.st ].aits of niy frame.
next five minutes" f smoked at
i.s as if Vesuvius had let ]rv. I
on fire on the inside. X.
every jiore. like a f
VI
le taste
uid the taste of a tl
ot any mor*^ nar;,diili fi
that hrass inouthpiec
lousand iiitidel toi
or me
'of
rame hoe,s(> tl;a<, i.s
Hie smoke had a,
\V1
lenevt'r, hereafter. I
'•' was viler still. 1
1"
IK'S that i('niai!;((l
was !;ettin'' disc
en
■see the eross-lef,'yed (iran<l'"''l'rurl
'oiivawd
narghili, in pretended l.liss. on the' ouSi<!
tobacco, I .shall know T '^''''
!e of a
k siiioki
le.
Ins
su
Tl
iffi
where it
1^ pn.son M-as tilled with hot
eiently toiirep^ire me for a .still
iiii for tJie shiimeless humbu- 1
paper of Coniieeiitut
an'.
^V
e is.
in-n I had o-
:ot warmed u|>
was — into a Tiiarbl
warmer temperature, thev tool
■ne out on a raisad platform in tl
sently
e room, wet, slij.j.ery and st
lie centre. It was
i;:«
Ciiiin-. and laid
niy man set niedowji by a tank „f hot
f,'loved his hand witl
with it. I 1
very warm. Pir
11 a coar.se mitten, iind 1
water, drenched iik; we.f
^ Nnielt. It was al
)egan to smell disa.i-reeablv. Tl
>(',U'an to polish me all
o\'f I'
minu'T. I ,s„i.l to I
perceive that I am prcttv f;
mil
le more he jvjiishe.l the won
'iiried witliout
ir yone.
It
any unnecessary delay. Pei'l
is plain that I ou'dit to bv
!ia
I'S you liad b-ttte
11' Jfo
230
Tin; TlliKISH 1!AT}|.
.iPcer nn- fru;;iii-! ;it on'.\', li'cmso tho weiitliPr is warm, unci I can not
* kocp' hmjf.
He \v<;nt ou ^^ol•^bbillL,^ iui<l paid no attention. I soon saw that lie
w;is nMluc'in,!;- my size. H(( bore liard on liis mitten, and from nnder it
rolled little cylinders, like niaccaroni. It conld not lie dirt, for it was
too white. He ])ii red me down in this way for a loni; time. Finally 1
said : ' ' '
' It is a t'ilious process. It will take hours to trim me to the sizt'
you want me ; I Avill wait ; go and borrow a Jack-i)laue."
He paid no attention at all.
After a while he brought a basin, some soap, and something that
.seemed to 1)? the tail of a horse. He made iip a prodigious quantity of
soap-suds, deluged me with them from liead to foot, without warning me
k) siiut my eyes, and then swabbed nie viciou.sly Avitli the horsetail.
Then he left me there, a snowy statue of lather, and went awav. When
I got tired of waiting I went and hunted him u]). He Ava's propped
iigainst the wall, in another room, asleep. I woke him. He was not
disconcerted. He took me back and tlooded me with hot water, then
turbancal my head, swathed ane with dry table cloths, and conducted me
to a latticed chicken-coop in one of the galleries, and pointed to one of
tliose Arkansas l)eds. I mounted it, and vaguely expected the odors of
Araby a.gaiu. They did not come.
The blank, unornamented cooj) had nothing about it of that oriental
voluptuousness one reads of so much. It was moi'e suggestive of the
county hospital than any thing else. The skinny servitor brought ii
iiarghili, and I got him to take it out again without wasting any time
about it. Then he 1)rought the Avorld-renowned Turkish collee that poets
have sung so rapturously for many generations, and I seized upon it as
the last hojie that was left of my old dreams of Eastern luxury. It was
another fraud. Of all the unchristian beverages that ever pa.ssed m\-
lips, Turkisli coffee is the wor,st. The cup is ,small, it is smeared Avitii
grounds^ ; the coffee is black, thick, unsavory of smell, and execrable in
taste. The liottom of the cup has a uniddy sediment in it half an inch
deep. This goes down your throat, and portions of it lodge by the wiiy.
and produce a tickling aggravation that keei)s you barking and coughing
for an houi'.
Here endotli my exjierience of the celebrated Turkish bath, and here
also eraleth my dream of the bliss the mortal revels in who passes
through it. It is a inaligniint swindle. The man who enjoys it is
qualitied to enjoy any thing that is repulsive to sight or .sense,' and he
that can invest it Avith a charm of jioetry is able to do the .same with
any thing else in the woild that is tedious, and wretched, and dismal and
Hasty.
CHAPTEK XXXV.
kept lu.n ,n a state of sn.othered oxas,)eratiou , Ulu 1 V i
t^th .; 1 H ]"'•', ^■*^^'"""'""« waist-sasJ. of fancy Peil an stuiK' ^ led
.itely (hsi.atolied an oAcer on board to i.Knure if lie could l.e of -^ v
ity. iJiey are usually so suHnioious of strMii<rp,-< +i. ,+ a ""sinLai
excpssivplv Tui-f], +1 7 1 'l^y^ii^'oi strangeis that they worry tliem
..u...y then. .„.. „ „,„„.e„t -^ t%VoMr of r^^r^i/^.r: rf
■"'M
■I !;ll iN-t
•mS
K/-
J
.1
1
IV
r
jiiii'
232
KIM) HK.KI.riOX IX Hl-S.S,A-MKLAN(HOLV SKBASTOPOL.
ml\:
^"^■.m
*si
Hi I
t,.^l,slnnen Mud ..tlu-r^ vvl.u ^v..I■. .lelaynl .lays, weeks and eveu months
m No ,as„,,ol, on account of tritling inf^nn.alitie. in their passnortraS
or wnch they were not to l>!a,ne. 1 J.ad lost my pass, ort ^ and "«
nv lit om letum. To read the description of him in tli.it passport and
iho. look at me, any ma,i could see that I was no more like him th u I
.H u hko Hercdes. So I went into the harbor of Sebastopol wit f ar
ml tn.ml>]m.- iul of a vague, horrible apprehension that I was'^ob^
o be ound out and hano-e.l. But all that time my true pass, m-t" h ul
i'een lloatmg gallantly overh,.ad-and behold it was^<mly our H '" Vl';!
never asked us for any other. ""''.••>• -iney
on^I"n.!rr J'"^ " ^T:\* "™''' J^"''^''" '^"^' ^''>-''^'' gentlemen and ladie.s
o boaul to-day. and the tnne ha.s passed cheerfully away. They were
■i 1 Imppy-spn.ted people, an.l I never lieard our niother ton-nie sound so
S;r"liL'ft' "p'^ ^' Ml from those English lips in lll^" 1:^
liked tV r .^ ^^""'""''^ '•' -'""'^ •'«"'' ■'"«* t*^ '^^ fri">^llv and they
.; ..I .• ' w"*^'" «'^"^« "^^tive ; lam sure that both en oyed the
ou^ isation but never a word of it either of us uiulerstood.^ T Id
most of my talking to those English peojde though, and I am sorry we
can not carry some of them i^long with u.s ^
We have gone whithersoever we choose, to-dav, ami have met with
:;;;' iz;;r;:.^^^ "^-^^-- ^^'-^^ ^-'i--^ whetLr;^;^:::;
f1: ^ ^ 'i. ^^ ^vatering-i)kce thirty mile, from here, and „ay the
^rZl ^r 'iV^ ""S, ''' '1 ^•"""^'^*-^ *'--• These ofticiiS^^d
£• SI? f ^ ,"/'"'' ^^"^■'^^l^-^-^ t" i"«^»-« "« 't cordial reception.
Wset; r'''^^'"' *^'^>^ ^^-0"^ »^ot only telegraph the Emperor
lit send a specia courier overland to announce our coming. Our t me
iid'ed ,> { ;';•'-'; '"^ "T" ''^''^"^^y "'^- ^'""^ i^ - >^«--ly out, tha we
■SanEm;::Ji:;.'"^^*^^'^ '''"'^ ^''^"^'^'^ ^f ^-1^1-^-ial iniercou^e
Euined Pompeii is in good condition compared to Sebastopol. Here
ca icelv anj thing but yum rum, ruin .'-fragments of houses, crumbled
v^als lorn and ragged lulls, devastation every where' It is as /fa
spot, lor eighteen long months the storms of war beat upon the helnlesH
Zi "t. tU' '^'r' *'T •"''^•'^^ ^^'^-^^^ *^''^* --• the'sun has Zked
■..1 if '^ "'^ ^'""'" '^•'''^'^I^'^* unscathed-not one remained
f The hour- 1 T^IT' '"'1- '°'"1''^*^' ^'""^ «"<^ --^'1 '^'"-^"V ^-^-ive
t. llie lioiscs had all been solid, dressed stone structures • most of
Hc.ei IwifSl ''"Tt '"^^ ^'"■^"«^' ''^ ^'""^«'> balls-unroSlird
siitec (knvn fioin eaves to foundation—and now a row of tliem half -i
t'^:X!lJ:^y^f' ^''^ ""•^'""^■^« l^r^'^«'- ^^' '-ttered diimn' -J
r?„ . . f " ''""'•" ^•«'»«"i« "1 «iicli as the.se. Some of the lai4r
buikUngs Jiad corners knocked off: piUa.. cut in two ; coruioi slS ■
DK.SPKRATI: FIGHTIXC.
233
1 HoiTv we
Tlio battlo-fiulds were ,„vffv ,.l .
-; a hill .•U.k is vi,l.t i. L " ,.^^ £"jf ■ "ir ^^^^^'^•''^ ^--- is
^■''le-shot of tlu3 Malakort-; Inkmn.m u . •, ^^" ^^'^''■"^ ^vus within
■slopiuo. ,si,leH that oue Jui-.h Imt s „ 1 !T "T'''^ ''^ '^^^'^ ""<ler its
^t stone into them. EeiK^'ate dl ,? , '^^ ^^'" ^^"•'^'^i'"' ^""'•s and tossS
"P the little Malakoinlil 1 ; ^^"S^-- temhl^^ su.^
imally, they captured tlu placra.u d ^ ' 1 p''"' • ''''^'^' slaughter,
t.'ied to retreat into tluftou- „ 1^ t , F n' 1 . T ]'TT''' ''''' ^^'^'^ «'«"
siuit tlieni o(r with a wall of /h me f 1 . ^^ "^ ^'l'^"'^ *''° J^^rlan, and
•'" to go l,aok and retake tla' U hkl-ff o di"" T'"^-'''^ ^'^^ *'-"^ '^ ^'o
i(o back ; they took the Ar.1 .1 «• '''' '"^''^''' ^t.s ^-un.s. TJiev di.l
a'-t then, tl^y ... lonX^n d i . i^^, X"^; ? '^I"^ thing^oe"
The).e was nothing else to do an o eve .1 '^T'^""'' '' ^'""M'lcte.
'^ey J.,,e stocked Ihe ship w hH.^ ' 'I { ''"\* *' ''^'^ting relics.
- ^alakoff, from the Kedan, Inken . b!;i,p ^ ''^^'' /'^^^'^ ^''^"^ «'«
"•ouglit cannoTi balls, broken rn.'.f "'''''■>' ''"^^'^i'^^- They Iiave
••p^'^t a sloop, kn^e l^'::^/'';^^;;^^^^^^
'al'oriously from great distance ..nd L^ ^''^ ^'''^^'^-'^''OMght them
la-onounce them only bones ' nu . 1 ^'"'''"t .*" ^''''' *''" «'»-^'oou
aot lose an opportunity like u He "'7'; ^ ^'''''' ^^'"<^l'^i- ''V-ouId
^vas going for another!*^ I pr ' ■ iled / ■'"'^''''. ' "'''^' ^"" ^'" ''-■^'-1, and
;-"<«> J'i'^ «t'tte-roo„. into :t,o ''w\'m '''■'• ^^' ^'"-^ '^'"-^'^
i':'^ g;ithered up in his travX He S'''''^ *''"""J'^^'^' -''i'^'' !'«
picked up one a while a-'o -iuTL j •. ''"-'"'i' J'i>* trophies now T
;^-eml." I carried i,:^^tt.S:L!teMMV'^"^"^'^^ of a Russia.'
'•lit a, couple of teeth and Dart of f 1 • ' * "'•'"'' '*-i* ^^''^« ""thin-
some asj.eritv : "'I''"* «* *J'« jaw-bone of a horse. T said with
.u;ug^;Sl:^s^rr^'--^' This is absurd. Are von never
^^He^J^^said : << Uo slow-the old won.an won't kno. anv different "
I'"yar,l to truth, pro,,?^ "^^^^.f ^ JbiPr^ '^'r'^ "'^^ ^i*'-"* "^
■a^' a .st,me in tu^., L} h.U^'t^'^^, ^ ''7« ^^und hin, break^
■"tot Den.osthe„es," and the%, he 1 -' D.lSr' !r ^'^^ ^^^
nan JMiinckfrom the Tomb of
^'^f'^i
>rtH
nl^
f-' ;
234
DKSl'EUATi: FIGHT FKG.
Aboliird and Heloise." 1 have known him to feather np a liandfid of
pebbles by the roadside, and bria<i; them on board ship and label tliem as
coming from twenty celebrated localities five pundred miles apart. 1
remonstrated against these outrages upon reason and truth, of course, l)ut
it did no good. I got the same tranquil, inianswerable reply every time :
" It don't signify — the old woman won't know any ditierent."
Ever since we three or four fortmiate ones made the midnight trip to
Athens, it has aiforded him genuine satisfaction to give every body in
th(^ ship a pebble from the Mars-hill where St. Paul preached. He got all
those pebbles on the sea-shore, abreast the ship, but professes to have
gathered them from one of our party. However, it is not of any use for
me to expose deception — it aifords him pleasure, and dees no harm to
any body. He says he never expects to nin otit of mementoes of St.
Paul, as long as he is in reach of a sand-bank. Well, he is no worse than
others. I notice that all travelers supply deficicucies in their collections
ill the same way. I .shall never have aivy conlideuce u\ such things again
wliile I live.
C H A P T E 11 X X XVI.
W'l:SSi;^;:r-;^L-J-;;^^^ -" rr- •'..- or
the han." of tluUinu. any n <.n t ; '".Y ^^atcJi .an not •• keep
I tl.ink it <li,l a wise t n- TL, ! ii '''"■''™ "•^'^"'"•''^^"1' '""1 sh.i.,„>, .
-d tl. Paei«o coast is l!;-.,,!^ '^^^l'^^ ^ ^^.1:^^^';,^^''"'^' ^l^'
I'ere, it is .somewluM-e abont a week 1 efo . 1 ^.f '^ -^ '" •*'"' "'^"■'""■'^■
-cnsahk, f^. getting a little ta.^^l "t ti V 7T .^'''^ "'•'•
distresses al.out the time hive ^vn , ,'"'"'' '''•'^tractions an.l
min.l M.IS so n„,eh aft" e tj. ,t I n ^ "" ", l";"'' ''"^'^ ^ '''' "^'''"'^l »»v
ti.ne again; but wh^?! e iCT^.^dv '"'' '"'>-'! 'l-"''tiou of
iH'ncling when it was dinn^! JH W^^.A ""' ^m* ''"^^"^ •-'"!«-
"^ oS SlLl^t -rS^^^^ "^''
northerly port in the BhfekS' W. " '^el'astopol, and is the most
The city L a popnlati^^of^; lI^:Zj;ZXf. ^"t!' '''''?''''■
IS growing faster than any other snail ev/rA^'*' thousand, ui,l
port, and is the gmit "rain -u-t f 1) '■ ""*.°^^'"«"ca. It is a frep
Its roadstead is Ml orfhlps '-l.!^;: J^'^^^^ V-^ "f the world,
open roadstead into a s, .cious ar HeiV ' t '■''"''' turning th<^
inclosed by iriassiyestone\ier one o^w^nVll'^:^^^^^^ ^ V^ *^^ '"' •'^''"^'^^
ove. three thousand feet ill a .ira^ht line '"'"^'^ '"'^ *''^ ''^^
like an American c ty I e b'w sW. ' '"f *"".*'• ^* '"""^^'^l .'""^
houses (two or three ;;^oit' w ^ i e t J"! ""'T^'' "'^ ^"'" = '-'
of architectural ornamentation loen^i .' ^ 'ee from any cjuaintness
(they call them acacia a sti •in!) '''^ »;«"lering the sidewalks
the Stores; fast walk«s^.f,,°'^"^"Tt"^ "'^^"<^ *'»« streets and
a message from our own"lear iv tk-e S f) . "*, f^"'* '^''■'^ ''^'^ l^^^*^
from shedding a few gratetl ears ,»' 1 '^'^ ''" l»'n-dly refrain
American way. Loo^iin he ! , w '""T'^'^'T "' *''^^ "'^' time-honored
way, we saw Lly .Wi ica ' T '^^^ "" '^'''" *^*^' ''''''' *J"« -".v or that
we were in RussL We walkS f oV^' "?*r ,*'""= '"^ ^^"""'' "« «"^t
l>onie yision, and then weTaiL"^,,^, ,!,'"',' ''" i"''^' ^•^"^'"^-" "^ *^"-
I»-e3to ! the illusion yaSied • X e ."t ■ "^ ? '^••^ck-drivor, and
that rounded inward at tbise n d 1 o " . ^ ''' '^'''^^'-'V'^^-^d dome
and the hackman seemed t t^r^it^f l:^;St"S^-
>:u\
OJJICSSA I'lHLlC I.\(!H.VnTL-l)K.
}ioof>s. TJietse tliiii-f.s wore osscntially fonngn, and so worn (]io carriaj,'cr
--hut every body knows about tlicse t]ii]i;,'s. aiul then; i.s no occasion fos
my dpscribing tlieni.
We were only to stay lieie a day and a ni.ijlit and take in coal ; we,
(.:oj:sulted tlie ^uitUvbooks and were rejoiced to kuow that tliere were no
si<>;iils in Odessa to see ; and so we had one good, untraTiimeled liolyday
on our hauds^ with notliing to do Init idle alwut the city and enjoy
t)ni;-;elves. We sauntered throu,^dl the markets and criticised tlu; feaifnJ
au(l wonderful costunu's from the back country; examined the populace
!is fai- as eyes could do it ; and closed the entertainment with an ice-crea-m
debauch. We do not yet ici!-cream every wliere, and so, when we do,
ve are apt to dissii)ate to excess. Wo never cared any thing about ico-
crcam ai. home, but we look ujjon it witli a sort of idolatry now tliat it is
so scarce in the.so red-hot climates of the East.
Wc only found two pieces of statuary, and this was another blessin'f.
One was a bronze image of the Due d(^ Richelieu, grand-nephcM- of tW
.splendid Cardinal. It stood in a spacious, handsome promenade, over-
looking the sea, and from its base a, vast flight of stone steps led down
to the harbor- two hundred of them, fifty feet long, and a wide landing
at the l-ottom of every twenty. It is a noble staircase, and from a
distance the ])eople toiling up it looked like insects. I mention tliis
statue and thi.; stairway liecause tliey have their story. Ilichelieu
founded Odessa- -watched o\er it with"' paternal care— labored with a
fertde brain and a wise understanding for its best iutei'ests— spent his
fortune freely to the same (Mid— endowed it with a sound jtrosperity,
and one which will yet make it one of the greatest cities of the Old'
World— built this nobl(! stairway with money from his own private
puree— and . Well, the j.eoiife for whoui he bad done so much, let
him walk down these same steps, one day, unattended, old. poor, without
a second coat to his back : and when, years afterwaids, he died in
Sebastopol in jjoverty and neglect, tliey' called a meeting, subscribed
liberally, and immediately erected this tasteful monument to his memory,
and named a great street after him. It reminds me of what Robert
P.urnss mother said when they erected a statelv monument to his
luemoi-y : •' Ah, Itobbie, ye asked for bread, and they hao gi'en ve a
stane." J a i
The people of Odessa ha\e warmly recomnieuded us to go ami call
on the Emperoi-. as <Iid the SebastopJlians. Thev have telegraphed his
Majesty, and Ik* has signified his willingness to^grant ns aTi audience,
f-o we are getting uj) the anchors and prejiaring to sail to his watering-
place. What II scratching ivroiind there will be now I what a holding of
important meetings and appointing of solemn committees I— and what a
furbishing up of claw-hauimer coats and white silk neck-ties .' As this
fearful ordeal we aie about to pass through pictures itself to my fancy
in all Its dread sublimity, I begin to feel my fierce desire to converse
with a genuine Emi»eror cooJiiig down and passing away. What am 1
to do with my hands i What am I to do with mv feet [ AVhat in the
world Mn I to do with myself ?
f "^1
CHAPTEE XXXVII.
WE anehorea Iiere at Yalta, Ru.ssia, two or tlu-oo davs ...o Tn
lie i,1mco Avns a vision of the Sionns 'riu> t..ll ' ° "'^'
tliat hack it, their «ide,s l,rist]in<' with .in '" . *""'.i''^3', niountai.i.s
unci there a hoary rock towerhn i "^^i; ^'Il^*';'•'^.^y^--''-•^•
«weep^,c; ,loM-u from the SMn.n.it 'lo he ^? T^' T"-''* ^^^^''^'^^s
«omeavalauc],eoffbrn.n-timr lUh^^S/^S;:' '" ^"""SO of
"PM-urcl to tl e V. lof 1 i '^^'/'I'l'^/'^^'-^^'l^-hich slopes baekw.r.fan
^own to its presei:; ^^ S ^'m::?^ I^.^S: ^^ ^^f ^^^4
-rr'' 1^^--^ ^^ .^i-s h,„i oat h^
to '>e saved, and to V" H il/^ h" '" 'f ''' "^"^* ^''"'^^ ^^^ ^I-
tlnng he said fell hW ! ir ,T ^- ^"^ "^'^''^ '"^ ^P'^f^ch. TIh> tirst
I'e ha.I seen rcce tions ^a the^ Hv' ' n' ^'T"'-> ^'"^ ^'« ^-^^
l'a<l often listened to '-- ' ^^^^^''^O'-^-^^'^'-al's in Od<.,sa. and
Russian and oX oonrt' a i;;i!""T"r ^"^^ ''''^'^'^'^ '-^^ ^1-
•sort of ordeal we were al.o,?^ to 1 ' '^r ^'T .'''y ''^'^^ ^^''-'^t
-i<I we were nnu.y ; ^^^ ^IZ e ^." f ..."Sl'" '^' '^''"^ ^ • ''''
douhtless M-e should he received . sun mr f ""'", nnuision ;
we Avould st;ind in a row II fi •■""""'' ^ fashion— ni the g:irden;
-lute kuls, and wh t neclHi;.; unHl ^T r '"™ ,"\ «-'^"--t-° coats
son^ethin./ of tha kind 'tl " '"'''"' '" ^'S^'t coloured silks, o:'
EmperorratteiKJed ty't s i e\.?;:i;^ """T"^;^'- ---'ian-Jthe
api-ear and walk slowly alon ' 1 e 1 ne ^^o. 'i '"''"' "•"^"'■"'^' ^^"^"^'1
or three words to others U Z, ,"^' ^^. "'^'"''* '^"'' ^ vvin^^ two
ve-ah delighted, ^t^;:::iast^^ s ri:^: t' f ^p^-i'^^^^'^''^'!' ^ "-■
the passengers— a smile of i,,' ' -?^ "^ ^''P'''^ """^ ^^^ca rash aiaojio-
^vith one accord he • L Lu^^^ Ratification, of adn.iration-anil
^PoctfuHy, and wrI i^?, L"'": ^f ;!„ fof'Tr '' obsequiously, hut re-
would go in the l.onse,\nd;f could ";,,'^^ nnnutesthe Emperor
--n.e.y relieved. It seei^c^^l man^^^ll;^- g^, J^^f ![
,ilM
m
238
UKCKIVKI) 1!V THK KMPEKOH.
I
M
inan in tli*! party l.nt believed that with a little ])nictico he could stiiiul
in a row, cspocially if there were others along ; there was not a man bnt
lielieved ho coiild bow without tripping on his coat tail and breaking his
neck ; in a. word, we came to believe we were ecjual to any ittau in' tin;
performance exe.>pt that complicated smile. The tJonsul also said wo
ought to draft a little addi'ess to the J'Jniperor, and present it to one of
his aidef!-de camp, who would forward it to him at the proi»er time.
Therefore, ljv(> gentlemen Mere appointed to prepare the document, and
the tifty otliei's went sadly smiling about the sliip- -practicing. During
the ne.\t twelve hours we had the general appearance, somoliow, of being
at a funeral, where everybody was soriy the death occurred, but g'ad i^
was over-- where everybody was smiling, and yet broken-hearted."
A conuiiitteo went ashore to wait on his E.^ccellency the Governor-Gen-
eral, and learn our fate. At the end of three hours of boding suspense,
they came l)ack and said tiu^ Emperor would recoivo us at nojutlm next
day — woidd send carriages for us— would hear the address in person.
The Grand Duke Michael had .sent to ir.vite us to his ])alace also. Any
man could see that there was an intention liere to show tint lius.,ia's
friendshi]) for America was so genuine as to render even her private
citizens objects worthy of kindly attentions.
At the appointed hour we drove out thi'ce miles, and assembled in the
handsoiiui ganlen in front of the Em])eror's i)alace,
We forined a circle under the trees before the door, for there was no
one room in the house able to acconnnodate our three score persons com-
fortably, ami in a f(!w minutes the imperial family came out bowing and
smiling, and stood in our midst. A number of great dignitirit^s ol" the
Empire, in undress uniforms, came with them. With every bow, his
Majesty .said a word of welcome. .1. copy these s[)eeches. There is
character in them — llussian character — which is politeness itself, and the
genuine article. The French are polite, l)ut it is often mere ceremonious
politeness. A Ihissian imbues his polite things with a heartiness, both
of phras(i and ex])re,ssion, that compels belief in their sincoiity. As J
was saying, the Czar punctuated his speeches with bows :
" Good morning- lam glad to see you--I am gratilied—I amdeli<>]ited
— I am hajipy to i-eceivc* you :" '^
All took ort' their hats, and the Oonsul iutlicted the address on him.
He bore it with unflinching fortitude ; then took the rustv-looking
docnmentand handcid it to sonu; great officers or other, to be tiled away
among the arcliives of Eussia— in the stove. He thanked iis for the
address, and said he was veiy nnicli i)lea,sed to s(!e us, especially as such
friendly relations existed between Russia and the United States. The
Empress said the Americans were favorites in Ru.ssia, and she lioi>ed the
Prussians were similarly regarded in America. These were all the
speeches that were made, and I recommend them to i)arties who present
policemen with gold watches, as nu)dals of brevitv and point. After this
t.he,_ Empress went and talked sociably (for an Enipress) with various
ladies aroiuid the circle ; several gentlemen entered into a disjointed
< ON( KNTHATKI) ('..WKI!.
239
ubled ill the
l^^vi'.T (.rKly talks E„..lisl> l'I,M-,.y.Ml, una.s.s.unin,:,- aial pn-tty.
is v...y tall and s .it ' 'j a •":: ri/T'' '''' ^"^^ -^-'tatiuus. ^ Ho
pleusautloukin.M.n.M.vn'tl .1 ss ' "^'" "";"' '^'""^''' '•'- '^'^y
.■di'cctu.nat... ThvreiHHon^i^^:. '"'^ ^'^^^ to so,> tl.at i.o is kind an 1
"«>ti.<-<l in Louis N",ron's '■""""'^ '" '"'^ ''y' ^'"'^ •••" "^ '-^
•Mshos al,ont tlu.i,- vvaists 1 L^n 11 ; , t ^f'^ ''"'' '"•"'•"' '^l'»'
«•'•o^VJH.d st..iw hats t.i, unc, liH. , ''"'""' *"'' "^ "'"■'^l"' ! I<'w-
I'l-ted i,i thick hiids ^d^t t :1;:;:;:"' v ^'r^ 7'*: '"'■• ^'-^ ''-^^
"ucoinoly thin^. tlu,v call a w,l Jl ,:,• )^ JH-r head, instead of tho
^vute.fallasa«mvas-covc4dl u i liL ''' T '"'''"" V" '""^■'' J"^^' '^
expression that is in tS E,i >en s f, ', :^"'''\ ^"'^''"■^' ^^''^ ^in.l
youn. daughter's into ^m K^on f r I rv' -'''''^^^ ''"'* ^^ '" ^''«
<-'za.-'s firn.ness to the .it no t to n I ^^»'«l"-^^'l H it would not tax the
in the wastes of S ^ Se Sil'f ' V"^'^'''?"'" ^^■'•"^^^' *« ■"^"^''•v
met, I saw more and o o nt ' t 1 ^l ' '^'^7 *"'" "^''^^ ^^'^
school-^drl could wiehl i^she cl .; /. i l*''" Vr^'"' ^^''''t ^voak, ditlid^nt
sl-« mi,i,dit rule the Autocr t o 1> , " ' ' ^^r"'?' '""^ '""">• '^ time
seventy inillions of u inn I eiitsS^^ ^^''""%'^-^^t*'''^t word is law to
like a thousand othe " I Imv S' ', w ";" "''^ '^n"''' '""^ «''« l-ke<l
novel and peculiar interes 1 ,:,:tfC;; "7*^,? ^"'^ ^"■""'^"' ^•"^'' '^
-- thing in this ].un.-drum W, nd T hadV ef' ^" ^ ^-'' - -
stale or worn-out about the tho,, rH Iv , ^^"''''' "''^« "othing
circumstances created It sS ';'";' ^'"^'i"^ *''« ^^''''ti^'^ '""1 the
to tldnk that the cL^ S^ r i^^ t f dutl-^T? '''" ' T ''''~
•I'Htting ],ere under the trees t n . T'' ''"'"'^ '''"""'"'
in the laml, was a ina ii wl ^.0,,! ^^'% 1"«-^^ «'-^'inary i.i.lividual
throu^^h the waves locn,?t, ^«"1^\ «l'^'n his lips and shij.s would Hy
-oukf hu„.y from -ill^^ e t" , ,:< J" / T' T' *^" I''"'""' ^'-^'i-^
word to the'fbur cm' "^ ^"^^ l^ t;;;^'::!^^^'-'?!'^'^ --1^1 «-'^ the
over a seventh part of the h hi l stretches its vast i.roportions
n>en would spril.. to ,X 'i^i^ "f^^t' :r::J^:^f ""'^f "'^« ^'
-.nine his hands and see if th^' were'-:^ n.^^^^ ^^ l^^olw
: flvi
"'A
1,1*1 ,
ill" 'iu'
ht.'""i.
*'!.
''"!.,
li 1
LI
I
hi |i
lis
K' •
240
AT Tin: cuowx i'iii.nck's.
mens. lUvo was n man wlio o.ild d,, this wondcifiil tliin^^ and' vet -T
1 chose I couhl knoek him down. The c isc wa.s plain, hut it sw^med
prej^sterous, nev.>ithelos.s - as juvposterons as trvin- to knock down a
mountani or w.p.^ out a continent. If tl.i.wnan sprained his anch- a
million mdes of telegraph wonhl carry the news over monntains— vallevs
— uuudial.ited des,Mts un.h.r tla^ trackh-ss .sea and ten thousand news-
l)ai)erH Avouhl prate of it ; if he Avcre -ricnouslv ill. all the nations woul.l
know It before the sun rose again ; if he dropped lifeless ^^•here la- stood
UH fall might .shake the thrones of half a world '. If I could hav stolen
lus coat, I would have done it. When I meet a man like that. T want
something to remember him by.
As a geiav/al thing, we have been sliown throiigli palaces bv sona-
piu.sii-legged, tJagrecHl thmkey or other, who charged a franc for i't ■ bet
utter talkaig with the coni].any half an heur, the Einpevor of Puissia and
his lanuly conducted us all througli their mansion them.selves Tliev
made no charge;. Tiiey secaed to tak(> a real jileasure in it.
AVe .s])ont lialf ,ui Jiour idling through the palace, admiring the cosv
apartments and the rich lait eminentiv home-like appointme;/s of the
place, and then the Imperial family bade our partv a kind good-l.ye and
proceeded to count the spoons. ' ^ . >
All invitation was extended to lis to visit the palace of the eldest son
the Crown Prince of Kussia, which was near at hand. The voun<v man
was ab.seiit, but the Dukes, and Countesses, and Princes w?nt over the
premises with us a,s leisurely as was the case at the Emperor's and
conversation continued as lively as ever.
It was a little after one o'clock, now. We drove to the (irand Duke
Michaels, a mile away, in response to his invitation, previouslv given
We arrived m twenty minutes from the Emi)eror's. It i.s a lo\elv
place. The boiaitiful palace nestles among the grand old groves of th'e
park, the park sits 111 the lap of the picturesque crags and liills, and both
look out upon the breezy ocean. In the park are rustic seats, here and
there, in secluded nooks that are dark with shade ; there are rivuh^ts of
crystal water ; there are lakelets, with inviting, grassv banks ; there are
glimpses ot sparkling cascades through openings in the wilderness of
ioliage; there are streams of clear water gushing from mimic knots on
the trunks of forest trees ; there are miniature marble temples perched
upon gray old crags ; there are airy lookouts whence one mav gaze upon
a broad expan.se of landscape and ocean. The jialace is modeled after the
choicest forms of Grecian arJiitecture, and its wide colonnades
sm-ronnd a central court that is banked with rare flowers that iill the
place witn their fragrance, and in their midst springs a fountain that
cools the summer air, and may possibly breed mosquitoj^s. l,ut I do not
think it does.
The Grand Duke iind his Duchess came out, and the presentation
ceremonies were as sim[de as they had been at the Emi)eror's. In a few
minutes, converaatiou was under way, as before. The Empress aiipeared
in the verandah, and the little Gnmd Duchess came out into the crow:
, •^i
•■'■*v^3'
(h\nii\ Duke
AT THE OHAND UIKK's. o(1
They hud l)eHten us there Ti. „ <• •
on horsehack. It ;h!; v iy p .^r '"{V^tT' ^'^ K>"I-ovoa,no hin.s.If
ever visited royalty and fe t Z " h^n-dl H .'"^'''''r;''^" '^ '^>"" '^"v-'
wearing out your wolcon^o-thou " Ti i,,, ^ ';-'^''' ^ >'</" n.ight ....
iH "ot scrupulous about dischar-. n. 1 w I T^'' ^ "'■ '''^'^■'^' ''^y'ltv
TJie (Jrand Duke is the thi f 'ot ^^ f V ''""' '^:^*'^ >'""• '
seven years old, ..orhaps «u( s Iw ' , ' ^"'I'^''-«'^ •« 'if>out thirtv-
eveu taller than the (>« as^t . I^'^'^'^^V'^^'"'" "^ H^ s
like one of those gor-.Cs' kni 1 1?^ - " "," f "'^'""' '""' '-''''« J'i"'«e f
Crusades. He looks hLmJ act tar^ "V'onmnces of the
into the river in a n.omL^ndil ''" •'^'" '""'''•' l''^^''' '''^ ^'nen.v
I-" out again. Tl.o";: S Ih^^,^:} C' '" '"r' '^'^ |- ^^^ Hshh ^
and generous nature. He m?st 1. ^J'«^v l.„n to he of a brave
A«,eric.vns were weleonre gS tl ^1- "T"' of proving that
because he rode all the w.y to Y„lta n e. n V'V ^''^'''' ^^' ^f^'««i«.
Emperor's iiinuself, and kept his a I "'".'^ '*"'" P^-^^^^s^ion to th.'
and ofiering "-istiuu. wh^ev , it ^^ li'^'SeH' f' ^"''"^ ^^^ '-->
fanuliar withhim then, because ocHmt- ,^^ ' ''''''■ '^'''^^^^'
recognized him now, a,,] appreciate J / ^ , '""^ ''''" ^'" ^•"«- We
"m to do us afavol-tlut u !o :V tnd'T)''!'' "'^•""^ *'"^ J"-»'I'ted
have doubtless declined to dJ. He huT lent" /" '^'^ ^^"'•^^^ ^^"^'1
a Cossack oiiicer. Tke JlJuS D^l^^ h' uUnT vvT> "'r^' ""^^"" «^
" ^-^ ' « tnnnned with S L 'j^^! ^:^:; ^^'l^- -'-- -th
Jittle gray liat
and vnpretending, and full of winnh^t^pSitLZ^' "" ^"■'^''^' "'«''^«*
t.::rx:^.rs---::-;-ei^^^
about half-past two o'clock o bSst if '^T '".^"^ *^ *''« I'^^^^e
we would have called it lund.eon itcons^ l^i "ff '\ ■^'''''^^■''^' ^"^
tea, bread, cheese and cold niea^ -ind w^ t . *T° ^^"^''^ ^^ ^^'i'-e ;
the reception room and the ve^S 1^^^^ Z '^'' ''''''' '^^^'^ i'^
there was no ceremony. It wa^ so 70^ -'^ ^^r^* ''''' ^«"venient ;
hat we were to breakfast there ^1^!?, l^'''"'"-', / '""' ^'^'-^''^l l-^fo^'e
boy had sugge.sted it to his m ier al Hill I'' "'"'I ^'f . l^^'ie^ed Baker's
^wouldbelikehim. Bake'TCt tl ! r'"' V''"'' "ot-though
He is always lunigry. They slv V o r"'" '''''^'' "^ ^^e sh,>.
the passengers are%L, un il 7„p df 11" f^""' ' " «tate-rooms when
oakum. They sav he will ,>!! o ^ .i """i'- ^"'^ t^'^^J say he eats
he prefers oa£,m.' HJd erLX"S. ;r fo. f '^*T" "'-'«' "'*
for a lunch, at odd hours, or any thin^ H ''"?''' ^"* ^'« ^^^es it
disagreeable, because it makes his ll 1 T' /* "^'^"^^^ 1"'" very
stuck up with tar. Baker's W mJT ^'''' '"'l"^ ^''l'' *»« teeth all
TIIKATRH'AK MONAUCHS KXP08ED.
'I !
imi'ties and Niich m had satiHricd their apitetitcs and Htraggh-d Odt IVoin
tlm recoption room.
The Cirand Diike'H tea was delicious. They give one h;nion towju<*ezo
into it, or iced milk if lie profei-H it. The former is liest. This tea in
hronght overland from Cliina. It injures the article to tmnsport it hy
sea.
When it wius time to go wo lia<le onr distinguished hosts good-bye,
and they retired happy and contentetl to theii- apartments to count t/ieir
spoons.
Wo had Hi>t!nt the host jtart of half a day in the home of royalty, and
had been as cheerful aiul comfortable all the time as wo could have been
in the ship. I would as soon haves thought of licing cheerful in Abiii-
ham's bosom as in the palace of an Emperor. T supposed that Emperors
were terril)lo peoi)le. I thought they ncner did any thing but wear
magnificent ci-owns and red velvet dressing gowns with dabs of wool
sewed on them in H\)otn, and sit on thrones an(l scowl at the flunkies and
the people in the parquette, and order Dukes and Duchesses ofl' to
execution. 1 find, however, that when one is so fortunate m to get
behind the scenes and see them at home and in the privacy of their
firesides, tliey are strangely'liko common mortals. They are pleusanter
to look upon then than tliey are in their theatrical aspect. It seems to
come as natural to them to dress and act like otlier people as it is to j)ut
a friend's cedar pencil in your pocket when yon are done using it. But
I can never have any confidence in the tinsel kings of the theatre after
this. It will l)e a great loss. I iu;ed to take such a thrilling pleasure
in them. But, hereafter, I will turn nie sadly away and say :
"This does not answer — this isn't the style of king thiit / am ac-
quainted with."
When they swagger around the stage in jeueled crowns and splendid
robes, I shall feel bound to observe that all the Empei-ors that ever /
was jierHonftliy acquainted with wore the commonest sort of clothes and
did not swagger. And when they come on the stage attended by a vast
body-guard of supes in helmets ami tin breastplates, it v ill be my duty
as well as my pleasure to inform the ' orant that no crowned head of
my acquaintance ha., a soldier any wht ■■«; about his house or his person.
Possibly it may be thought that our i)arty tarried too long, or did otiier
improper things, but such was not the case. The company felt that they
wei-e occupying an unusually responsiljle position— they were represent-
ing the people of America, not the Government — and therefore they were
careful to do their best to j)erfonn their high mission with credit.
On the other hand, the Imperial families, no doubt, considered that in
entertaining us they were more esjiecially entertaining the people of
America than they could be by showering attentions on a whole platoon
of ministers ]>lenipotentiary ; and therefoi-e they gave to the event its
fullest significance, as an exjiression of good will and friendly feeling
toward the entire countrv. We took the kindness wu received as atten-
tions thus dii-ecteil, of i ,»arse, and not to ourselves as a party. That we
wl out from
ARI8T()(;KATIC vihitoks. .,13
wo were jroiiiir to .1,. -«,;fi. ougmiil a.ixiety as to what
anxiety aClhattl^LXtr/ "'m ^f'^''''^ f'vnsforme,] i. t.
solved at Jast. Two ^13^1 . ''^V''^ir^- The problem was
swear a dreadful oatTtlmt .«!,,? 1 T """'"" v ^"'"-'"' '""^t «it''er
ho was in the C^al d mt o . o 1,^ Z"' ' ^"^ '^ ^''^ ^'''''y -''''-
ship until we were safe t W °'P'''^^ «'»'"." "»'hu- guanl on board tl.o
long, but yielded a 1.U ^f ' ; "'^l'^" '^S'""}. . "« fought the dile.n.ua
savage r.vJer would Jiif a s, eci . '^f C tl b'"?"^" T'-''^^^^ *''«
term to bo offensive. I onlv ,.1?,?! n .A ' ^ ,''° "''^ '"«''^» *'''«
-. ,0 often t„„t a.,/eh,"tz;; irZw .ni^fsSi,';:;*-" "'-^ ^«"
And tune will wait f,.r uoir. aor (or us too. "
The sea has been unusualiv rou^h nil rl..,- ir
lively time of it, anyl.ow/\Vo° ,1, ,t' ;^ '"''"'■'/"!' "'^'^ '"«' ''
(Jovernor-Genen 1 oame, and we v ■^' ^^ ""' f^ ''''•^^'••■*- ^lio
He brought his fannly w h 1 im T ' Z ?"' '^ "'''"^" ""^ '"»« ^'»•^•
the pierdK,a,lto his S ge S- 1 im T^^ k on'^r'^'l^r/'^^'^""^^' ^'^'^
walk there witljout anv rmuTJ i i ^''°'/»'* ^ ^'^^''^ «««» '""'
.nay be he ha<l what S' 3 .t I ''"' "°* °'! ''"^"^««*^- ^ ^hoiight
I..uardou» polish "10^ v-' Si; I'T'T f "^'^'^ """''' ''^^ ^"^ ^^'ra-
boots,and vished o^ote^efTll'l ft"''' '"•^'^7 mediocrity.) on hi.s
they ;vere blacked !n, b ./ Z' ' I .1 "^{'/""""V^^^ T^^^' ^^ "*^^ *^"*
forgotten Ins carpet, 'l.eforo Ku d In J ^"^ •!'''' TT *''='^ ^'^ ^^-^'f
He was an exceedi ..dy , lea nt , . ' '* '"'*'' '"'"' '^'^^J'^^^-
especially Blucher. me Wen 1^^^^^ ^ a,, Hked l.iu,
again and fetch his carpet alol^ ^^' ^^"''"' "''''''^ ^""^ **^ ^'"'"^
yeS^^^?sr;:^X: ±^l^Sri :'-- n:, ^'";^ --
with these parties, at lirst, because whcm T i iv: . "' -t'"*'^ ''"*'""*
I do not like to be familiar SL, I T I I ] "'"'^''"'^ Emperors
whose moral characters ^^^^^tl^^^ZZjTf'"''' '17'
acquainted with. Ijucl^ed it best to b. TZ\i lu!^ It^^' thorough y
1 said to
"te wHi!'*""' '""' °"" "'" '"" "" •""I-"-""'- »'-•. .vi,o'hr,!^!r
Baron Wrauirel came also. Up „h.wJ +^1.. P ; ' • ,
tigtc
told
liun I had an uncle who fell down a shaft and })roko
214
ARISTOCRATIC' VISITORS.
K''<-It.
Ui
lumself in two, as much as a year before that. That was a falseliood
hut tlieu I was not going to let any man eclipse me on surnJisin-
adventures, merely for a want of a little invention. The Baron i.s a line
man, ami is said to stand high in the Emperor's coiilidence and esteem
Laron L ngern-Sternbsrg, a boisterous, Avhole-souled old nobleman
came with the rest. He is a man of progress and enteri)rise— a rei)re-
.sentative man of the age. He is the Chief Director of the railwav
Ky.stem of Eussia-a sort of railroad king. In his line he is makinu
things move aloug m this country. He has traveled extcnsivelv in
Ainerica. He says he has tried convict lobor on his railroads, and 'with
i)erfeet success. He s.ys the convicts work well, and are quiet and
l)eaceable._ He observed that he em])loys nearly ten thousand of them
now. This appeared to be another call on my resources. I was eciual to
the emergency. I said we had eighty thousand convicts emi)loved on
the railways m America— all of them under sentence of death for inurder
m the tiist degree. That closed /n'/a out.
We had General Todtleben (the famous defender of Sebastoi.ol durin-
the siege,) and many inferior army and also navy officers, and a naml,er
of unuthcial l.ussian ladies and gentlemen. Naturallv, a chamnpo-ne
luncln-on was in order, and was accomi)lished without loss of life To'tsts
and jukes were discharged freely, but no speeches were made "save one
thanking the Lmperor and the Grand Duke, through the Governor-
General, for our hospitable reception, and one by the Governor-Generil
HI reply, in Avhich he returned the Em])eror's thanks for the sDeecJi
etc., etc. ^ '
h\ It-
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
WE retuniecl to Constantinople and afto.- , i
. exhausting marclies about the dtv 1 m ""^ """ *^'? '''""* "^
Horn .n cairjyes, we steamed a^vay alai^ V. n ' "T!; "^^ * '' ^'^'^^''^"
of 3Iannora and tlie Dardanelles, mid steered ?o,^' ,*^'7"S''' *''« ^''^"'^
to us, at least-Asia. We had • s vet nnT -'^ 'T^ ^'""'"'^ "^^^' ''''^'
tancewith it, throuc^h i.h'a re ™ tj^^ '^ '^owin,^ acquaiu-
round about. ° ' "^ excursions to Scutari and the regions
We passed between Lemnos and l\Tvfnn„„ i
seen Elba and the Baleaiic Isles!^r.ieJS^^^ «aw them as ^vo had
"lists of distance u,>on ihem Jit • ^ r ^''^''''^
hold our course southwarcr" H^!; ^ ,, "re , "^^' '^' '\ T''- ^^''^'" -«
At all hours of the day and irhtfi*! -f '-1^ celebrated S.nvrna.
themselves and aggravatiir\"t-l^r^;:,r.- >f"^"*l^ """^"^
opening paragraph of our Address to the P.! ^ *° '■°^'*''*^- ^^'''^
" We are a handful of ,n-iv"if? I ^'JT'' '^''''' ^'•^'"^*' ■'^'^ follows :
for I'ecreation-an rnnoste ta ou '."^ ^'''''''''' *»-'^^-«''"g ^'^'h
and, therefore, we ..ue no tv^e^ n''. 7'"';' '"'• ""°«^^''^1 '^t^'^"-
™y.-.lly 111 a table-cloth mottled witl^r^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^'''^'I'l-'
bearing a sceptre that looked strai...elv S? eoffec-stams, and
a delapidatecl carpet, and peUe S. If "" ^^''^'^''^-inn, walked uj.on
%ii.g spray ; hisSa.Ved aS we t^e be te7 f '''T^';"-' ''''^''' '^^^ *''«
Lord High Admirals suirounSd him . ^^'f '»^'^'- ;^"'«' I>«kes. and
■spare tarpaulins and remna '^^^^ arrayed in all the pomp that
visiting "'watch below," rI^Lme,Unto' ''1'^^' ^T"^'' ^^'''"' *''«
P;lg'-i.ns, by rude traVes ie "o r Vrr 1?^ h^ '^
gloves, and swallow-tail coats m o v L ! i i ' ^'°«l-«kirts, white kid
and bowing low be-^a uUvilT " r """".''^^ "1* *''« companion-way,
^vhicllfew^„onm.c;^"ouS^ti^^a;^^^^^
a slush-i) astered deck-sw-on .1.. ' . ., , ^''^'^ *^'« '"ock coumiK
proceeded to liil'SSV'"" "•* ' " i^agment <.f p.per, .u j
^'^i
246
SAILOR BLULKSQUE.S.
it to the police.
the Gi-iind Duke's,
—I am gratified — I
the ninch: The
for roci-eatiou— and luiostontatiously, as becomes our unofficial state-
and therefore we Jiave no excuse totender for presenting ourselves before-
your Majesty — "
T/,p Emperor—"' Then what the devil did you come for V
, T'1^"^'^ *''^ ^^^^^'^'^ "^ offering our gmteful acknowledgments to the-
lord of a realm which—"
^ The Emperor-—'' Oil, d— n tlie Address !- read
Chnmberliiin, take these i)eoi)le over to my brother.
and give them a H(]uare meal. Adieu ! I am happy
am delighted— I am bored. Adieu, adieu— vamos ...^ ,,w.^.. . xi,v
Fir.st Groom of tjie Palace will jjroceed to count the portable articles of
value Ijelonging to the premi-ses."
The farce tlien (dosed, to be repeated again witli every change of the
watches, and embellished with new and still more extravagant inventions
of pomp and conversation.
At all times of the day and night the plira.seology of that tiresome
address fell upon our ears. Grimy sailors came down o\it of the foretoi)
])lacidly announcing themsehes as " a handful of private citizens of
America, traveling simply fur rcrreation and ostentatiously," etc. ; the
coal passers moved to their duties in the profound depths of the shii)
explaining the blackness of their faces and their uncouthness of dress'
\yith the i-eminder that t/iey were " a handful of private citizens, travelin.r
simply for recreation," etc., and when the cry ran through the vessel at
midnight : " EuiiiT bells !— lakboakd wat(;h, turn out !" the larboard
watch came gaping and stretching out of their den, with the everhustiii"
formula : " Aye-aye^ sir ! We are a handful of private citizens of
America, traveling simj)ly for roci-eation, and uncstentatiouslv, as be-
comes our unofficial .stat.> !"
As I was a member of the committee, and helped to frame the Address
these sarcasms came home to me. I never heard a sailor proclaimin-!
himself as a handful of American citizens traveling for recreation, but 1
wished he might trij) and fall overboard, and so reduce his haiuiful b\-
one individual, at least, I never was so tired of any one phrase as the
sailors made me of the opening sentence of the Address to the Emi)eror
of Russia.
This sea])ort of Smyrna, our first notable accpiaintance in Asia, is a
closely packed city of one hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants, and,
hke toiistaiitinoi)le, it has no outskirts. It is as closely packed at its
outer edges as it is in the centre, and then the habitations leave suddenly
oft and the plain beyond seems houseless. It is ju.st like any other
Oriental city. That is to say, its Moslem houses are heavy and dark,
and a.s comfortless as so many tombs ; its streets are crooked, rudely and
roughly i)aved, and as narrow as an ordinary staircase ; the .streets
unifoi-mly carry a man to any other ])lace than the one he wants to go
to, and surprise him l*y landing him in the most unexpected localities
)usine.ss is chiefly carried on in great covered bazaars, celled like a
honeycomb with innumerable shops no larger than a common closet, and
SMYRNA.
247
nents to the-
laiige of tho
t iiiveutions
.l,.™,ged with 7„,l^'Xre: % r,t:k '?;'"' ""«" • "-■■y ""-y i«
the 8feel», „„d the wSlrvS' n "^<"*«''T '■'" »" "l'"' '"
ear, „,„1 over them „1 W. o t W ' • """"'J'' "' '""""''' """I «'-
calling the fa ^ul , Z,l ''"' "'™" » "^ <'"'" «»"■« tall mi„a,«t.
pra,er,thon„iJi,tro3/the r'' ^^ ""l"™'- '» tl.e call t<,
to every thing, ,>„., ci„i,:inX' i^k niZi' h,7t',"r-^l»■t'■
fatte.1 calf to tl fl^roK f ,t 'f '■'''■■"'"" "» *}!<> ■""""J "''o.'- of th.-
lnxury-»„ch ia oS^Xl- ^'Luffit aU f '", "*f "
we compreheiul it not uiit l we spp it V " ''"•" '''^y"' '^'^^
«an.e occurs seven 1 k" ' s in tl e iihl. ^'^""^ ? '' ''7 "^'^ ^•^*>'- I*'^
Christ visited it ::'''"' *'f Bil H one or two of the discinles of
lypticchu^dii: :.^ , :i:z:^^ "ii^^ f t^'"»^ ---i--
in tlie Hcripturi as caZe'tkfZXJ T'^^^^^^^^^^
sort of in.nlied ..roinisr/hTT ' ""V ,?\'*''"' conditions there was a
of life " i'r ••'•'"!i'''^^tJ''iV^'"^'"''' ^^'""I'l t)e endowed with a "crow,
slat, not t:;:,, trf.;;", t t'l t"t '"'f'T*"'" -- «- ^™
liither cousiclort "rt »,elr . 2 , ""''' '".' «'«. l'«8'"a» that wander
«agLtcit,,,vitht;;:it'!;:r:^^^^^^^^^^^^^
whtrem were located tliP, nfl>o,. .;.- i i f"<^ig>» ^vnil« the cities
life .»» ,.ro„.i.cril^:^tw"fl';-t%': ,,'" t"s "" """".r
still possesses her crown of life ,•„ ! \ ■ *^'''^^'- . ^" i^niynm reallv
career, foreighteen cent ries .^' 1 1 ,'""'''" T"'* '^^ ''''^^'- H.m-
under the rule of ,S celff ''«''» "^l^equered one, and she has been
during all tht tt.r^ rt TLiow ? 'l\ ''"'^ '^'^ '""^" ^ «--"
w«s inhabited at nin th I O T ' ^"- \'^ ''"""« "''^^^ «■'«»»« 'i« «he
Christians "a tllV i n o death " k' -^tl'-*/'-" ""le con.nu.nitv of
whidino threats wtrehnHed in the^R "T\*^" ^"'^^'-''^-l' ^K^inst
which survived. ^^ *'" I^evehitions, and the only one
removed from Siesus H Jr /^/f '•""/• ^1'*^ " candlestick" has been
prone to fin "ptt 's iiU ft ble " ^l ^'"* T'' ^'^«"'"-^' ^^-^^^
cheerfully and conSm Iv of^ it' "" ,*'r 7^''^"' """^ ^'■^•«'- «I-i
prophecy. And yet Si i.. ;"'"'^' ,^l'l'c«"« "« the victim of
quaiificiion,the<£r;is:i::fX:;;:::"^^^^^^^^^^ -*''-* ^^-
" Hemeniher, thcR'forf, from whence tlmn ^.f f.ii .
works ; or dsu I will ...me unto t Ice (lui Hv .. ^ -iV '""^ ''''"■-f'' "'"' ''" *'"• «''«'
ofl.isj.Iaco, except thou repent •' " ''"'""■' ^^v ^''""l"*"'ti.'k out
That is all; the other vei.es are singularly o.. ,.//„...„,-, to Kphesus.
I . ^k
, (f
'Hi
id
'I • ...;»LuiJ
•248
PIUJHIM PUOI'HECY-SAVANS.
ri .
tint
111, i;
Ihe threat is .lualiticd. Tlieie is no 'listory to show that she did not
)-ei)eut. But the cruc; it habit the modern prophecy-savans have, is that,
one of coolly and irbiu-arily iitting the prophetic shirt on to the wrong
luan. Ihey do it without i^egard to rhyme or reason. Both the cases I
have just mentioned are instances in i)oint. Those " nrophocies" ara
.listinctly leveled at the '' churches of Ephesus, Smyrna," etc., and vet
the pilgrims invariably make them refer to citleH instead. No crown of
ife is promised to the town of Smyrna juid its commerce, but t- the
Iiandful of Christians who formed its "church." If fhci/ were " faithful
unto death," they have their crown now— but no amouj'it of faithfulness
and legal shrewdness combined could legitimately drag the ciu/ a imrtici-
pation 111 the promi.ses of the prophecy. The stately language of the
Bible refei-s to a crown of life whose lustre will reflect the day-beams of
the endless ages of ete: lity, not the butterfly existence of a" city built
by mens hands, which must j)as8 to dust with the builders and be
forgotten even m the mei-e haiulful of centuries vouchsafed to the solid
world Itself between its craille and its grave.
The fashion of delving out fultilments of prophecy where that i.roiOiecy
consi.sts of mere " ifs," trenches upon the absurd. Suppose, a thousand
years (rom now, a malarious swani]) builds itself up in the shallow harbor
of bmyrna, or something else kills the town ; and suppose, also that
witlun that tune the swauip that has fllled the renowned harbor of
hphcsus and rendered her ancient site deadly and uninhabitable to-day
becomes hard and healthy ground ; suppose the natural conse.uience
ensuea, to wit: that Smyrna becomes a melancholy ruin, and E!)hesus is
rebuilt. W hat would the prophecy-suvans say \ They would coolly skin
over our age of the world, and say : " Smyrna was not faithful unto
death, and so her crown of life was denied her ; Ephesus repented and
iO ! her candlestick was not removed. Behold these evidences t 'How
wonderful is prophecy !
Smyrna has been utterly destroyed six times. If her crown of life
had been an insurance policy, she would have had an opportunity to
collect on it the flrst time she fell. But she holds it on sufferance' and
by a comphmentaiy construction of language which does not refer to her
Six different times, however, I suppo.se some infatuated i)rophecy-
enthusiast blundered along and .said, to the infinite disgust of Smyrna
and the Smyrniotes : " In sooth, here is astounding fulfilment of pro-
phecy ! Smyrna hath not been faithful unto death, and behold her
crown of life is vanished from her head. Verily these things be aston-
is.ung !" ' "
Such things have a bad influence. They i)rovoke wordlv men into
using light convei-sation concerning sacred subjects. Thick-h'eaded com-
mentators upon the Bible, and stupid i)reachers and teachei-s, work more
damage to religion than sensible, cool-brained clergymen can fight away
again, toil as they may. It is not good judgment to fit a crown of life
upon a city wliich has been destroyed six times. That other class of
wiseacres wlio twist j)rophecy in such a manner as to make it promise
f'.'i
•SOCIABLE ARM,NU.V U.RLS-STHKKr SCKXKs. 249
the destruction and desol'itii.Ti r>f *i.
marble, and in the centre of Lu v of t .In ' ""'^ '^'^'^^^^ ^^"ares of
in it a luxin-iant flower Irde f.l [ . . Ir '" '^i"'''" '""•*' ^J^'^^' J'««
all thez^omsopenontld a'v t/\X^:;f /"-^ «'« floors of
and in this tiie women sit the n ovf f .1 , '*"'' **" *^'« "*'«^t «loor
evening- they dress n„ in tlHnW . ^'''^ '''^•>'- ^" ^l'« cool of the
cleanly ; tl/ey look as if tty ve w onT' ^ «-Yf'^^"'°'>^ "^''* '"^^
young ladies-many of then^ I n a v v .-f ' '"''"^""^ ^""""^ ^^^ ^he
average a shade better than An.e iSn .n^;^ 7"/ T'^ '^'''^"^""^ ' ^^'^^
l.niy niav be for-aven me Tl.ov fe'»'l«-yliich treasonable words I
wl^na;trange.n;n:i;e"Stl.^'bri:S T^f' T"' ^^"'" ^"^''« '^^
; l>e speaks to then,. No intro.t ti t ; . • ■ " ''T' i"' '^^'^ '"^'^
he door witii a j.rettv girl one never s w 1 Lf^ ,'' ^"''"■' '■'''^* «*
'« very pleasant. I ?.ive tr Tft T n' '" ''"^'^^' o'-tained, and
English aid the girl kne ^^„tlh: but r'..T^'' T* '"'^ '"^>'*^"»" 1^"^
•-•l'arou.s tongu^, but we ^J^ tg t-^' :: [ "/flT;!";' "' '""^^"^^^
these, the fact that you can not con>.„^l.n, i , *^"'* '" '^'''«e« I'ke
<I'-awback. In that Pu.s i a/ t' v ^of 1^ It^^^ T f''' ^™'* ""'^^^ ^^ *
<lanee an hour long, and one I T- 1 not l'.. f ^ /T' '"'' '^«to'"«l»"g .sort of
girl, and we talked inces^mtly nl ' m 1 1 f"'"' -'^^'^ '' very pretty
-e ever knew what the 2!^' ::' £^ .r'''Z:t'' ""' T*!^^
There were twenty i.eoi.le in the set -ind t ,^ * '''"' «l'l^n«l"l-
implicated. It wis con.plic^t to no h wi lout' 7" ''-^ ^""^'^ '"^^
more ,so. I thi-ew in a «. ure now m 7 . 1 T\ '"«~"'»tl^ i»e it was
sians. But I have never 'leased to ti I 71^ '^T' '• "Z'^''"^'^^'' '^^^'^ I^"«-
to her, but I can not direct X ^I'^s ^''c^Le h rf '"' ' ''^^"^ ^"•^**-
";"e-jomted Russian affiurs, and t L '.re nit it''"' ^'^ «"«/<" ^^J'»«e
alphabet to hold out. I am not reckli^ '. ? . *'"'' ^"""«'' '» «"»•
^vhen I anx awake, but I Ike I stt tr ?f7^ '" ?"^ *^ l'^™'"'"'^« ^^^
with a lock^jaw in the moni^. l'2f f u . ! " I I'Tf l""' ^^* "^^
now, with any sort of re-ularitv ^Z T °' , """* ^'^'^'^ "^^ '"^als
<lreams. It is awful on ?ee 1 -^ it ne7J"''' "'^"'^ l''^"»t« '"e still in my
fetches an old snag aloTic,\' • 1 'it S , "\T T*,"^ "^^ "'«"*^' ''"* ^^
"ips off a couple of the! y L^l^^' w?, '^^'^f^-^- f^^^ ^iown and
Coming throuirh the Dar Lm 7 "'^ *''"'^ fe'^°*^-
tl.e glasses, but we w^re n t Iri Z" ^'^^^..f "-^ *--'« on shore with
---Is are'very nu.cXg " ,\a ^th ^^fw^ 7 ''' '^ '"^'""^- ^l^^Be
menagerie. They stride -xloilr tZl I r ."1^^^'"'^"« «"« «ees in the
a trJn, -ith heLr/otlst fhe W^^^^^^^ «!«' - '•"-" in
r.n.ish costume, I an Ar:i::]:::^-^::rz'7's^;'^^
250
STREET SCENES.
and completely oversliadowed and rendered insignificant by the huge
beasts. To see a camel tmin laden with the .spices of Arabia and tlie
rare fabrics of Pei-sia come marching through the nanwv alleys of the
bazaar, among porters with their burdens, money-changeis, lamp-
merchants, Almaschars in the glassware business, portly cross-legged
Turks smoking the famous narghili, and the crowds drifting to andfio
in the fanciful costumes of the E .st, is a genuine revelation of the Orient.
The picture lacks nothing. It casts you back at once into yoxir forgotten
boyhood, and again you dream over the wonders of the Arabian Nights :
again your companions are princes, your lord is the Caliph Haroun Al
Raschid, and your servants are ten-ific giants and genii that come with
smoke and lightning and tluuider, and go as u storm goes when tliev
depai-t ! *'
•j(.
CHAPTEK XXXIX.
ments frown u,.ou th^Sv fm, ^Z WV ?" n ^'''^'" "'"' Pr^'Hgious l.attle-
-the Mount Pug^^ of S^e tW^ l'^ll lust in the e,Jgc of the town
Seven Apocalyptic cLS7' ^ ::lu L^'^ "^f f/^'^^*.''- «f the
century of tlie Christian en • nH ^ "? ^?''"**''^ ^^'''^ "^ *''« «»'«*
of the venerable Sh4anrt]K'i^^^^ T'l "■""' *^'" ^'^'^^^ °^ martyrdon,
eighteen hundred ymrs a::o "'^' "^ ^"'^^™'^ ^'^'^ ^^^ ^^Hgiou Hon.e
theThunSl on ^^ '"^'''^"'* '"^^' "^'•^«'^- ^^^ «- Po'ycar,.'s tomb, and
of us a little wax clmlle as a^f v ' '''''^ *^V' ^^^^ attendant gave each
in my hat, and the un m^ted r w^' °^ '^'' 1''"''^' ^"^^' ^ 1'"* """«
of my neck ; and so now ?have no/ ^\"^ ^'"rj"^ ''"" ^^«^" ^^'^ ^>"«k
is as'orry and a wiltXUing SaTtiu "' '''' '"* *^^^ ^^'^^^' ^^^ ^*
Bible spoke of t^he m^ as \1,?™ v? "'"^ "'* '^ ^^'"^^•"- *''^^* *'-
mibject to persecutio:Was ner Polvn ^' ' r"*? ^"'"'•' ^ *h«"«''*' »"'» «"
they probaily CO i LV /ave!S i f ' T'^^'^^T^ ^^'^^ i» the first place
wouli no. W dam ^ b^ld • f '-'^""''^^ '"f?' ""'^ "^ *»'« "^'^^ond
could; and finally, tLTif%,,e"^^,/, "I ,?"" ?'« '* «^ ^'^'^ ^^ ^-3'
common judgment would haZu'lt'ltl" SJPuV'''''''''^ '''
near the town. But the elders of^Cstint km ll "1 , '* T'"'''^'''
scouted our evidences Howeve. 11 y I- ^ ™'*"' "'" ^o^^'" '""'
They fonnd tl..t theyha?™. ^d t r- ^^^ ^ *° *'"'" '-^f*^''^^'""'-
P1-; they discovert that r'a^,S;r^nl^r'^ ^'^ "'"^"^
earthquakes. S^ iX^ mrt": k? -^i ^ knocked.down by
excavations expose creat blopV« nf I -ir ! .* asunder in places,
"- <i u
252
MYSTKRIOUS OYSTER MINE.
i;j
Tlie UHcent of the lull of the citadel is very .steei,, and we uvoveMed
ratlier slowly. But there were matt.Ms of interest about us. In one
place, hve hundred feet above the sea, the perj.endicular bank on the
uiiper side of the road was ten or fifteen feet high., and the cut exposed
three venis of oyster shells, just as we have seen <juartz veins (^xi)osed in
the cnttni- of a road in Nevada or Montana. The veins a.e abou^
eighteen inches thick and two or three feet apart, and they slanted alon-
downwards for a distance of thirty feet or more, and th^n disai.neared
where the cut joined the road. Heaven only knows how far a man ini-dit
trace them by ".stnj.pinjr." They were clean nice oyster shells, hulre,
and pist like any other oyster shells. They were thickly i„as.sed
togetlier, and none were .scattered above or l)elow the veins Eat'i one
was a well-dehned lead by itself, and without a spur. My first instinct
was to .set up the usual —
NOTR'K ;
" We, the uml,.r,siKii(>.l, .laini livu .•lui.n.s of two liu,ul.v,l JM ...acl., (and ,.,ie lor
.lKs™vm-,)ontlnskMlt;,.,,rI...I,.of oyst.Mvshdl.s, with .ill its dim, simrs, aa-K.s
va.mn.,.,.s an.l .sinuasitn.s, and liti,y f.vt on ,.ad. side of tl • saiius to work it "tc '
(.'tc, aicoidiiig to the 11111111)1,' laws of .Smyrna. " ' "'
They were such perfectly natural-looking leads that I could hardly
keep from "taking them up." Among the oyster-shells were mivexl
many fragments of ancient, broken crockery ware. Now how did those
masses of oyster-shells get there ? I can not determine. Broken crockery
and oyster-shells are suggestive of r. staurants— but then they could have
had no such places away up there on that mountain side in our time
because nobody has lived up there. A restaurant would not pay in such
a stony, for))idding, desolate place. And besides there were no champa'Mie
corks among the shells. If there ever was a restaurant there, it must
have been in Smyrna's i)almy days, when the hills were covered with
palaces. I could believe in one restaui iit, on those terms: but then
how about the three ? Did they have restaurants there at three ditTerent
periods of the world?— because there are two or three feet of solid earth
between the oyster leads. Evidently, the restaurant solution will not
answer.
The hill might have been the bottom of the sea, once, and been lifted
up, with Its oyster-beds, by an earthquake— but then how about the
crockery? And moraover, how about t/n-ee oyster-beds, one aljove
iinother, and thick strata of good hoae.st earth batween ?
That theory will not do. It is just possible that this hill is Mount
Ararat, and that Noah's Ark rested here, and he ate oysters and threw
the shells overboard. But that will not do, either. There are the three
layer,s again, and the solid earth between— and, besides, there were only
eight m Noah's family, and they could not hrve eaten all the.se oystei-s
ni the two or three months they staid on the top of that mountain. Tlie
beasts— however, it is .simply absurd to suppose that he did not know
.tiny more than to feed the beasts on oyster sup2)ers.
M,LLER,SM-A TEMPORARY TRirMP,,. 053
^i^^S^llTil;^^ ..ueea at last tool
But what ol.Ject co„ld they hj^, h.^ ''V' ^'^''^ '^'''' «^^" ^<='onl
Wl must necessarily l>o fat^uin-^ a" 1 a '!^v^ ' '"" •^"''- '^'" ''^*'"1' ''
The most natural conclusion'wo^lc o t " uL^ '""''''r? ^"' '"^ «y«ter.
to look at the scenery Yet ^vh u T "■^'''' ''"'' ^-'io'l't'*! up there
of an oyster it seen.s'phlll t Ts r ruV"^^* "^'^^ ^'^ -*' -
1ms no taste for such thin-^s • Ju V "?^ -> ^"'''''''"'*''-''- ^" "V.'ler
"pter is of a .etirin.^ cSo'sitL /'""^^i'",? ^"^' *'"' '^^"'^Uiful. ^Vn
above the average, and l!^^'"^,.;^; .j;:* ^-f-, "°^ ^'^•^'^ ^^-'^-
tloes not take any interest in scenen ' " !"* f "'*' "'^' '"^ "Vster
at now / Sin.pi; at the poin J .^^ ff .2'" '' ,^'^';'' '""•^' ^ -••--.l
«'•« ^/..r., in regular laye.-s, iive h Iml feX'- r'"'^;',' '^'"■"' "^'''''' '"^-^^^
knows how they got t ere T h.l\! "'^' *^'« •^™' and no man
pt of what tlui'^say irtlis • '' T lev aTtl "^' \'" ^l^'-'-ks, and he
IS a mysterv." ^^"^'' ""'' ^'"^i'^'- but how they got there
a Wild excitement at the appointed me^ A '"•;"' '"''\'' ^•"I'uinated in
lace ascended the citadel hi) eo -K • ? "'^ number of the i.onu
of the general clestru:;l:n ^ 1 " ^^^^^^ T'^'7l '^ =-* -^ of thH v
B1.01.S and ,eti.ed from all ealidyZines' "^"f^^^^^^^ -P tlul
;vas hat about three in the afLnoc 7 whil^ '"^ '^^^^^
friends Nvere at dinner in the ho t. . ^ '« . *'"'' 8'^'itJ""an and his
hy thunder and lightnin" tot fb. H 'f' ''°!'"^ °^ ^•'^•"- acco.npa nied
two or three houi^. It^'was a f b , ' "'"'^ ^""i"'"«^l ^vith dire f/u-v fo •
ti-e of the year, and scam Lr^'^uTrfT "' '"'"^"'-^ '^^ ^^ a
ran rivers and the hotel floor w^« H . i \°'* 'skeptical. The streets
to be suspended. Whit s^nf Sit JilVr'lt"'" '''' ^^""^ ^-
through and through, an.l nielanXolV ;,';?. * "'T''^; ^''^^ '''■"'^'^-'•1
faltil™;'-:/^^^^^^ the 0,.ie,.t_i,. tl.
yet they have one almidv ■:,« L '.', 5?"'"S<> 'l'"« to thhifc of. And
« well h„Ut .„„ „„, ,S, " " ;. „■; EnST"""- ?" l"-"" "
an immeii'-'p imnmit -r i . ' •> an jinglisJicomi)anv but i« ■.>,-,+ i •
U1CI1..K .tmoimt ul business Tbp «vc,+ , -i - '. '"^' '*> -iot doin<r
^.r, wt it. --.^i^M,. on,;'':o^;s4T;'ir,;^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
MM
254
runiOLS PLACE FOR A RAILROAD.
It nins almost to the very gates of EpheHiis — a town great iii all ages
of the world —a city fumiJiar to readei-s of tho Bible, and one which wax
m old an the very lulls when tho disciples of CJhrist pi-eached in its
streets. It dates back to the shadowy ages of tradition, and was the
birth[»I ice of go<ls renowned in Grecian mythology. Tho idea of a loco-
motive tearing through such a place as this, nnd waking the phantoms
of its old days of romance out of their dreams of «lead and gone centuries,
is curious enough.
We journey thither to-morrow to see the celebrated ruiny.
ill*
ill
CHAPTKK XL.
very
Tlie
grotesque co8tx.meH,lon4L Hue of ^: T T"/"'"^ "*" *''« "»«»*
r^ungWl tlmt no posJ Cle CO bi)lt m ""*»•«'"',' ^^'"t ^fn be imuKined.
.gmndeur, tl.at told us 2 ^1^^^^^ *^"''' '■'"'"'"^*« of a.-dutectwml
metropolis, once. We^ eft tJie t^ it T"'" 'TT'-^' '^■'"^* ^""> ''^e" '^
withonriivitedmiestV ,1 ! ""^ Juownted the donkey.s, alou-
of an An.e;;an i o^^^^^^^^ ^'"'"^' ^^'^*'— ^'-- the otHceVs' S
proventitive di.l not work well h tl ■"%"^'"" *''" ^•'°""'^-
H>;v;ever. There .vere t Tr" 1 .! tth^ b/ir" '^Y l''^'""^«'
to the bit. It was purely ornanunfd fo • ° 1 \ , "'"^^'^ '"'"'' *'*'*'
for it. If lie were drifting, ti' f ^'"^ ^^''''^''y ^^"■*'^' "othiu-
down luuxl the otlLwafi^^ you might put your helm
'-t he would contim^Vdiftt: Zb^rffr,'' ''''' '"^ ''''''
was only one proce.ss which coul.l M V *^'° '*"'"^- ^^'e»'«
get down and lift hTsreraii J.nf i t^''f ^'-^ ^\'' "^"^^ *^"^* ^^-'^ to
tion, or take him Tder yorrn I^d^ ^ f '" the right dixec-
-iHcb he could not geTrtywUh^ iS- "" t, ' »""'' '^^ *^'« '"^'^^
as]iotasafurn«ce,TmdnecCl2 U n^ ^^^'u '"" ^'""«d down
^"iyi«-otcction;theV served oX to make b^"" '"'^ ''''''''^ ^^'"•'"y
than ever tant4tic-for be H kLwn tit ) r ^'^' l"-«««f i«" look moi^
because they could not sta^ on C ha ele s iTl u""" f •■"""^' ««*"d«
^vere perspiring and out of temnei It f . . '''^^^'^^' the ,nen
rocks the\lonLysw"rrcaSr'in^":/''V'''^ ^"^"'^' ^«'''"«t the
••"Kl being belaboLl w ^ ubslr ?t anTevr "" ^"", '^^ ''^^'' «"«
rr:rnl^.:-S^^^^^^
t^- those soiitudi ^d se;;'^^;!: t;: i^o^zi^^tj':^
fi'^
250
BV-(JONK MAdNIFICENCK.
ed that were us ImnI to imv i;,'at.. uh tl.oHe, I tliiiik, or that ha.l ho namv
viU\ oxasporatin-,' instincts. < )coaHi()nallv we «r.'\v no tired and l.reath-
I08H with tiKhtin- thoiu that u.- had to de.si.st -and inunediatelv the
donkey \^ nhl conio down to a delil)f«r- walk. Thi.s, with the fati;,'nr
and tlio HUH, w. mUI put a man asleef) ; and as .soon as the man was asleeii
the donkey would lie down. My donkey shall never see his Ixnhood's
home iv^twn. Ife has hiin down onc« too often. He must die. "
We. all stood in the vast theatre of ancient Ephesus, the stone-henched
amphitheatre I mean— and had our picture taken. We looked as
proper there a.s we would look any where, I suppose. We do not em-
bellish the geiUM-al desolation of a <h>.sert much. \Ve add what diynitv
wecantoiLstatelyruin with our ;,'reenumi,rellaH and jackasses, Imt it
iH little. Tliiwever, we mean well.
1 wish to .say a hrief word of the aspect of Ephesus.
On a high, steep Idll, towanl the sea, is a i^rav ruin of i.onderous
blocks oi marble, wherein, tradition says, St Paul was imprisoned
eighteen centuries ago. From these old walls vou have the Hnest view
of the ilesolate scene where once stood Ephesus, tla^ proudest city of
ancient times, and who.se Temple of Diana was .so nol.le in d.i.si.'ii anil ,s<.
exquisite of workmanship, that it ranked high in the list of Ihe Seven
Wonders of the World.
Behind you is the sea ; in front is a hnt'l green vallev, (a marsh, in
fact,) extending far away among the mountains ; to the right of the front
view is the old citadel of Ayassalook, on a high hill ; the niiiu-d Mos,,ur
ot the Sultan Selim stands near it in the plain, (this is l.uilt over the <'rave
of St. John, and was formerly a C'hri.stian Church ;) further toward
you IS the hill of Pion, around who.se front is clu.stered all thnt
remains of the ruins of Ephesus that still stand ; divi.led fnnn it hv
narrow valley is the long, rocky, rugged mountain of Corresus. the
scene is a preity one, and yet d-solate— for in that wide plain no man
can live, and in it is no human habitation. But for the cnimi)lin-
arches and monstrous piers and broken walls that ri.se from the foot of
the hill of Pion, one could not believe that in this place once .stood a citv
who.se ivnown is older than tradition itself. It is incredible to relhn't
that things as familiar all over the M'orkl to-dav as hou.sehold words
belong 111 the history and in the shadowy legends of this .silent, mournful
solitude. We si)eak of Apollo and Diana— thev were born here • of the
metamorphosis of Syrinx into a reed— it was done here : of the .^-eat 'm\
Pan— he dwelt in the caves of this hill of (,'ore.ssus ; of the Amazons-
this was their best prized home ; of Bacchus and Hercules- both fou-'ht
the warlike women here; of the Cyclops-they laid the ponderous
marble blocks of .some of the ruins yonder ; of Homer— this was one of
his many birthi.laces ; of C'imon of Athens ; of Alcibiades, Lv.sander
Agesilaus— they visited here ; so did Alexander the Great :* so di.l'
Hannibal and Antiochus, Scipio, Lucnllus and Sylla ; Brutus ( 'assius
Pompey, Oicero and Augustus ; Antony was judge in this i.lace, aiul
Ictt las seat m the oi)fu court, while the advocates were speaking to run
le
ttftor Cloopiitni, who iHiNM.wl o. i
I»l«HHu,. .L„.;io, ^ ":i, :: ;:?;;='••"" tl.is city tin., t^o sail.,l on
with ..o„,.anio,s of l^^ntin?! ^ , s , :! y?,"/:'''^ *";' l""-^"'-' -'i's um.|
to umuso th..,.,; hi .lays that s, ,n . *''"""■;'"'''"'*"'■«'""' •""«i™"s
fi-o.n the .uly history <?,' t ^ eitv P ,''';? "T'"""; •^" ••""-'^" -•" th.y
";■«.;... here, and so .h.l John amM.v •'""'''" ''^ ""^•
l"ttod ugainnt wihl ,,„asts, fb,- V V. i .^ I!:''';:';' ^'"^ '^^••""•'- --
" 'farter tla. ,„„„..,.,• of „„.„ I Imvo fought wit> i,. .
*^nt Kl>he,siH,'',Vr.,
-H ^-oo j,..i.o.i it Lt to iL r'he . ; ' r '^'"'•'''''•''■^' ''-'"^
Jmndml years a.o-ain>ost v.st, nla af i/ ' '^^^"^; "••^' ^ '^ix -r seven
CVusadors thron.^..,l the streets ,/ 't, ' 7" -*''"°I'''* «<" "'"iI-Ha.l
of .noanderin^ strean.s, and ti,^ a' l i.^ wT" " ""'"^' ^^"" ^'"'"'^
we discover tlie crooked ,iver Meu c er ! v " '7.""""" '^■•^'•'' ^^^»'»
J-et.onary. It n.akes me feel : ^'''t' '''f>'' «'^^^' '* *« «'"•
upon these nioss-lun.i. nuns t^ i 1 st > i ""*,' ' • '"''^ '''"^ ^'^ '""'< ''"wu
Scriptures and l.^liev". l.u l.e 'm, ^''-•^"i'ltion. One n.ay read the
tluntre and i. in-a^inatl;;; ^^ ! Tj^U^'^li't ''"''!''; ''' ^« -^^-1
who n.obbed Paul's comrades there ui V ' ^^'I'^''''''^^"^'! multitudes
;.; ihan. of the Ephesians 1" The j • o ' " ' "T^- """,^"'" ' " '''^^^
tliLs almost makes one shudder. '"* "' ""'■'' '^ ■'^">»t'»I« us
It was a wonderful pitv +i.;., a< i
broad plains, you tind ^h 'm'^ t SeJv^" TY" ^ ' ^^'" '^'-'^ ^hese
Hcuttered thick among the Zj Z^^^^ ^''T''^ ""''''''^ fVagnu.nts
ground or lying pronc^^-on it m^elutA^ T\ J'r^'"''">^' ^on, th.
Hnd all precious nuu-hle • an It ever ''' ''''!"""•'* of porphvrv
papitals an<l massive bas^ nd poi^KtiVr' ^'"' ^^^^-^ --ed
mscnptums. ftis aworld of m-ecKe i . •^''''''"''"'^ ''''^' ^''"^^'^
niutdated gems. And vet wh t n! ? . ?.' ■'' '^'^''^'^^^'^^^ ^^ marred an.I
buried here u.ider the ^m ud A ^ ^''? *'•'"-"" *" *"'« ^^'"'"lers that ie
n Sp^uu, are great mo^":*:^, ^t^^dS"; l'"''' ^ '^* ,^^"'^' '" *^- -*i-
theatre of Ephesus which S Raul's ,ot',,r "'T *^''* 1'^^ '" "'^'^ "1^
avchesof .some of these ruins re; "unorn "^, '''^^^'I'-'ty! The massive
,■< . :i!l
258
MASSIVK MASONRY — THE LEGEND.
as a Saratoga trunk, and some the size of a boardiug-lioiise sofa Tliev
are not shells or shafts of stone tilled inside with rubbish, but the whole
pier IS a mass of solid masonry. Vast arches, that may have been tlie
are built in the same way. They have braved the
gates of the eitv,
^, , . •• * „" "" *- "' - """^ "•V -^^^^y juivt; uraveu liie
Storms and seiges of three thousand years, and have been shaken by
many an earthquake, but still tliey stand. When they dig alongside of
them, they hnd ranges of i)ouderous masonry that are as'perfect in every
detad as they were the day those old Cylclopian giants linished them
An hnghsh Company is going to excavate Ephesus— and then !
And now am I roninded of—
THE LECiKND OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS.
In the Mount of Pion, yonder, is the Cave of the Seven Sleepers.
Once upon a time, about fifteen hundred years ago, seven young men
lived near each other in Ephesus, who belonged to the despised sect of
the Christians. It caiuo to pass that tlic good Khig Maxiinilianus (I
am telling this story for good little boys and girls,) it came to pass, I
say that the good King Maxiinilianus fell to persecuting the Christians,
and as time rolled on he made it very warm for them. So the seven
young men said one to the other, let us get up and travel. And they
got up and traveled. They ta-ried not to bid their fathers and mothers
good-bye, or any friend they knew. Thev only took certain moneys
w uch their parents had, and garments that belonged unto their friends,
whereby they miglit remember them when far away ; and they took also
the dog Ketmehr, which was the property of their neighbor Malchus,
because the beast did run his head into a noose which one of the youn"
men was carrying carelessly, and they had not time to release him ; and
they took also certain chickens that seemed lonely in the ueighborin<r
•coops, and likewise some bottles of curious liipior.s that stood near the
.grocer's window; and then they departed from the city. By-and-by
they came to a marvelous cave in the Hill of Pion and entered into it
and feasted, and presently they hurried on again. J3ut they forgot the
bottles of curious liquors, and left them beJiind. They traveled in many
lands, and liaii many strange adventures. They were virtuous youn" men,
and lost no opportunity that fell in their way to make their liveTihood!
Their^ motto wa.s in these words, namelv, " Procrastination is the thief of
time." And so, whenever they did come upon a man who was alouf,
they said. Behold, this person has the wherewitlial — let us go thromdi
him. And they went through him. At the end of live years they had
waxed tired of travel anil adventure, and longed to revisit their old
home again and hear tlu, ^•oices and rsee the fiices that were dear unto
th3ir youth. Tlierdforc-. they wt'nt thrjugh suoh parties as fell in their
way where they sojourned at that time, and journeyed back toward
Ephesus again. For the ^^ >od King Maxiinilianus was become converted
unto the new faith, and the Christians rejoiced because they were no
longer persecuted. One day as \W sun went down, they came to the
THE SEVEN SLEEPERS.
caTe iu the Mount of Pion, ami they
259
said, eacli to hk fellow, Let
Kleej) here, and
,'0 and feast and make
us
«aid, It is a whiz. So they
ip h
IS voice i>nd
there lav the bottle, nf J. ^ '"' '""' '"' '^'^'^i'^^ they ha
•eads of the «a>ne were level read/ t'"'' '^''^■' '''"'^'^^ ^
I'ottles, and behold they felt veiv t„t^ / the young men di.mk six
soundly. ^ ^'''y *"^'^'' tJ'f'i'. and lay down and slept
When they awoke, one of f J^m t i
•said. We are naked. ' Tul t wa'Tl'"- '''-•" '"'^"^^'^ «mitluanus-
the money which they had ZtLLJri ''"'"'^'*, ''''' '^" ««"«' '^^d
ceededthrotigluistheyappLlerthe^^^^^ . f^"' ''^""^ '^''^ ^'"^ i^''^'
roded and rusted an.l defiri ji 1 ^ "I'"" the ground, cor-
nothing save th. brass l^t u,t' ^001 .^ ''= "^''T'''' "'^^ "^'^ ^^^
much of these things. ButXTtoot /l ■''"'"^'''- ^^'"7 ^^-ndered
about their body so!ne leaves Si came In T""?' ''"^ *''^>^ ^^™Pl'«d
wez-e they perplexed. The won e fuftZT ''r. "^^ "^ *^^« ^'^"- Then
grand edifices they had neve see f^'^' f ^^''"'^ was gone ; ma.iy
strange garbs move^labourtl^str?^^^^^ *^- -^^^ -- iu
Johannes said. It hardly see.ns like F l ^ thing was changed,
gymnasium; here is the miJS^^l'^.^' ^in 1 1 ^^^ ^ «- «-*
thousand men assembled- here is tlu. A ,'''''' f ^"'^'e seen seventy
sainted John the Baptis -n.ue^e ttf ^^ *^^!'" ^' '^'' ^"^"^^ ^^^"'^'^ tho
of the good Ht. Paul wherHeaU did u^T'^^^^'^'^^^^^^ *^'« l>"-'^on
chains that bound him and be c ed o f f r f *" *'"°'' *^^'" '"'«i«"t
of the disciple Luke, an.l afar off tin T t'T'''^' ' ^ ''' ^''^ ton,b
of the holy John, where tJ (^^-isU " ^^"e U """ ''^"'^ ^'"^ ^^'^'^
gather the dust from the tomb, wh o s aL '"l ''^V "'''"" '^ ^^^^ *«
that are corrupted by diseas^^ • nd ch ,1 .. I'J:^'' ^'"'''^'^ '^^'«1« '^^'^^^
the wharves encroach ni^^rth s^^^^^^^^^ but see how
anchored in the bay; see llso how the T f '''"'^^*^"1^^-^ "f "l^ip^ are
over the valley behind Am IT ^'ty hath stretched abroiu I, far
audio, alltha^lnlls ;;;• 1^;;"'^*<' *-.-=^l'« of Ayassalook;
of marble. How mighty i:^^,;::^!:^^:'' "''''' '"'''' '^^^>^^^'^^^
■^^^^:::^:st::::^:!:':7sJ:;^, -"- *'r --t <iown mto the
would have passed o'r., th^ m/.Su I the '^";'- , A"^^ "''^'^ ^''^^^
ym, with his teeth, ami turne S ,1 ZauT\ '''"'■ ''i ^''^
tiem, and cast them upon his counter ..1 i' . , -'^.'^ curiously upon
tl^'^besaid, These bo Ix,!a Cfthe^^^^ i rf' '^ *'"^>' ^''U.g ; Siid
and Avent their way Wiren'l,:! ^ "^'"^' ^^'"^"''^ ^hou to lLuh-,s,
ni.ed them, albeit ^heyeme'.iri";^ T"" '" ^'-i^- ^'-■'*«^, they recog^
were glad. Thev nui L 1^^ ''^^^'V^^Tr j "^V""^' "^^■^^' '"'^
-Kl looked ia<puringly upon t " ' ^^ ^^" '■ 'l'"* ■'^■'''^''' »i'«»«''
"tf'iit, while their 1
went, Wher;
learts beat 1
IS my father I Wl
'i,i;li, and the col
hey said, wit]
or in their f;
1 great uxcite-
ices came and
"'re ,s n.y mother ? AVhere are Dio>iy-
260
THE SEVKN SLEEPEKS.
sius ami Senipion nnd Pericles, and Decius ? Aiul the .strangers that
opened ^s:ud, A\ e know not these. The Seven .said, How, you know tliein
u , \ T^ ^'"'■'' ^'"^ '^''■^^* ^'^'■^' '"^'' ^^^'"tJ»er are they g.nie that
dwelt here before ye ? And the strangers said. Ye plav upon us with a
je.st, young men ; ^^-e and our fathers have sojourned 'under these roofs
tie.se si.v generations ; tlie names ye utter rot upon the tombs, and they
that bore them have run their brief race, have laughed and sung, have
borne the .sorrows and the weariness that were allotted them, and are at
mst ; ior nine .score years the summers have come and gone, and the
autumn leaves hav,. fallen, since the roses faded out of their cheeks and
tJiey laid tliem to .-leep witli tlie dead.
Tlien the .seven young men turned them away from their homes, and
the str.angers shut the doors upon them. The wanderers marvele<t greatly
and looKe<l into the face of all they met, as hoping to lind one tlalt the'y
kuow ; but all were strange and passed them by and .si.alce no friendly
word. I hey were sore distressed and .sad. Presently they spake unto
a CKizen and said, ^\ ho is King in Ei,)iesus I And the citizen answered
and^said, VV hence come ye that ye know not that great Laertius rcu-ns
ill ii^phesus Ihey locked one at the other, greatly ])erplexed, and
presently asked again, Wherc^, then, is the good King Maximilianus ?
Iho citizen moved him apart, as one who is afraid, and .said. Verily
tJiese men be mad, and dream dreams, else would they know that the
King whereof they speak is dead above two hundreil years a'-one
Then the .scales fell from the eyes of the Seven, and one\,id, Alas
that we drank of the curious li.p.ors. They have made us %yeary, and
111 dreamless sleep tliese two long centuries have we lain. Our'hoiues
me desolate, our friends are dead. Behold, the jig is up— let us die
And that same day went they forth and laid them "down and died Incl
HI that self-same day, likewise, the Seven-up did cease in Ei.liesus for
that the Seven that were up Avere down again, and departed and dead
withal And the names that be upon their tonil)s, even unto this time
iire Johannes Smithianus, Trumps, Gift, High, and Low, Jack, and the
(.ame. And with the sleej)ers lie also the bottles wherein were once the
curious JKpiors ; and upon them is writ, in ancient letters, such words
as these-names of heathen gods of olden time, perchance ; Paimpunch,
Jiusling, Egnog. ^ '
Such is the story of the Seven "leepers, (with slight variations) and I
kiiov.- it is true, because I laive seen the cave my.self.
_ Really, so tirin a faith had the ancients in this legend, that as late as
«iglifc or nine hundred years ago, learned travelers held it in sui)erstitious
tear. Iwo of them record that they ventured into it, but ran ouickly
out again, not daring to tarry lest they should fall asleep and outlive
their great graP.d children a century or so. Even at this day tlie ignorant
denizens of the neighboring country prefer not to sleep in it.
CHAPTEli XLI
WHEN I last made a nier,.oran.l,un. we we.v -t F, I
re^^uum l.as been Jo).^ I o .s t. t '"'"!" i'"'^ ^'* ^^«'^'"^'>"- T].e iutei-
inulebuck to tlie railway de„ot . '. ' T' ^•■'^'-"^■' ^'^'^ ="i-->u
;.a.lsuchtlungstodis:L.^rH^f^;f^-;t^^^^^^^ -'.pe!le<l all who
/oak ontjhr onr ^^.n-^y/anc .see that o VT, .V .f'"" < ."'>^^""t'»oi>I« to
a just, and a well.de.4-ved reb ke mt i' 1 II ""^' "'^- ^* ^^-"^ "'^ ^^■'««'
re.si.st a temptation to phuider .'^ s -.x nJ f '' ". .sms.tion. I n^veJ
msulie,-ably vain about it^ l^i ^^^^ '''7^'' T'^'^*^"^ ^'"''"S
was serene in the n.idst of U^^^^ ^f ^''y'^":'^ '^^^'^'^on. I
Ottonjan governn.ent f^^r its alw'' £,d ^ ^^^'^l.^"''^!-' -l-i the
eutirely respectable gentlemen and ladies ^:w '^.^v^^
souls, It touches us not." The shoe not nnl. S , *' ^''''* ^''^'"'^ ^•■'^«
Pi.-1-l hard ; a principal sl^m di^ov^e^ tllT f' • """ '-T^' '"'* ^^
ii.elo,sed ni an envelope bearin-^ the se-iTof . P , , "n''?'"'' ^r.lerwas
^tuntinople, and therefore uius? 1.. L 1 '• ■^^',''^"'' '-"'•'^•'^•'^v at (V,n-
of the Que^n. 'Hn. ^^^Ja^^^.'^'^r "'•^"'■" '7 ''" ^-P»'-entative
it might have signified oni; Ott^ ^^ tr^rilf StP '"" ^" ''^^''^"='-
norance as to genteel niethodsofe.pre 'it tt'"''?-'^
tianiml, educated, i,olitic British le- .'do l sb ".''"'^ ^'■''" *'^^ ' '^"•'«-
a sort of gentlemen and ladies who w.d' ^ ' ' 7 '"'=^^'''1 tl"""t v.-e were
^r.le,l it, and were inceZT^Zl^ '^^y "^'f^f SotJ.eparty re-
tho Han,e precautions would uv teen ^""'''^^ !^'^^^>'^^^^^-^, th^
lK^cau.se the English comirnv vol, , "-""'•'^" ^"'.'/ travellers,
Ephesus, and have ;r;;Ctufo:tr;r'-f. ''^ l"'^''* ^^ — *«
and deserve to be.^ They^' n n t y T'^ ' "'"' *" ^' l'vot,cted,
their hospitality abu,sedt^tra el "^^ ot T ^ "•" *'^" '"'^^ "^ ^'-'^S
notorious scorners of honest W rn o. ^ "' "''''' ''""'''^''' ''^'^ -'<''l^
We .sailed from 8
chief feature, tl
nivru
were
'1, in the wihle.st si,^
. _rand goal of the expeditioi
pproachmg the Holy Land I S./ch a 1
le
trunks that had lain hurried week
and fro above decks and bel
iiiii)acking; such a littei
ves f<
nvn ofex]iectancv, for the
1 was near at hand-we
imrying into the liold for
or niunUis ; such a i
«'w ; such a i^iotous systf
Imrryin..; to
■111 of jiackiiig ;:!id
•',1,' up of the cabins with .shirts andsk
■i.fl»
Hik
'^'^iA
:irts, i.-.ul
262
AI'I'UOACHINfi H(»r,V LAM).
h
iH!
Il -I'
tl ..
m.losonhableaml uncliissable odds and ends; such a makin- „p of Imndles
and .settin.tr apart of uinl.rcllas, green ,si)ectafleH and thick veils: sucli a
critical in«iHyjiion of snddlesaiid bridles that hml never V(>t touched horses'
.such 'I Pl*>;inmg and loadin- of revolvers and ..vaniinin- of bowie-knives-
sue i a iialf-soJin- of the seats of pantaloons with serviceable buckskin • then'
such a, poring over ancient maps ; such a reading up of TJibles aTid Palas-
tn.e travels; sucli a marking out of routes ; such exasperating efforts to
divide up the conipauy into Lctle bands of congenial sjarits who mi-rht
make the long and arduous journey without .piarrelling ; and mornin...
noon and night, such mass meetings in tlie cabins, sucli speech-makin-
such sage suggesting, such worrying and (luarrelling, and such a genera!
raising of the very mischief, was never seen in the ship before'
But It IS all over now. We are cut up into pnrties of six or eight,
and by Jus time are scattered far and wide. Ours is the onlv me
Jiowever that is venturing on what i.« called " the long trip"— that is'
out into Rvi'ia, by Baalbec to Damascus, and thence down through the full
Jength ot Palestine. It would be a tedious, and also a too riskv journey
at this hot season of, the year, for any but strong, healthy men, accus-
tomed soinewhat to f.^tigue and rough life in the open air. The other
parties will take shorter journeys.
For the last two months ^ve have been in a worry alwut one portion
ot tJus Holy l.and pilgrimage. I refer to transportation service. We
knew very well that Palestine was a country which did not do a lar-e
Pjissenger business, and every man we can.e across who knew any thim-
aJ)out It gave us to understand that not half of our party wouhlbe able
to got dragomen and animals. At Constantinople every body fell to
telegra],hiug the American Consuls at Alexandria and Beirout to .^ive
notice that we wante.l dragomen and transi^ortation. We were desperate
—would take iiorses, jackasses, cameleopards, kangaroos— any thin^'
^ t Smyrna, more telegraphing was done, to the same end. Al.so: fearin°
tor the worst, we telegraphed for a large number of seats in the diligence
tor Damascus, ami hor.ses for the ruins of Biialboc.
As might have been expected, a notion got abroad in Syria and E.^'vi.t
that the whole iiopulation of the Province of America (the Turks
consider ns a triHiiig little i.rovince in some unvisited corner of the
world, were coining to the Holy Land— and so. when we got to Beirout
yesterday, we found the place full of dragomen and their outfits. We
JiHd all intended to go by diligence to Damascus, and switch off at
IJaalbec as we went along— because we expected to rejoin the ship, go to
Mount _Carmel, and take to the woods from there However, when on-
own private i>arty of eight found tiiat it was possible, ami proper euoug .,
to make the '• ong trip," we adopted that programme. We have neve.-
been much trouble to a Consul before, but we have been a fearful nuisano^.
t() ou r Consul at Beirout. I mention this because I cannot helij admiring
las patience, las mdustry, and his accommodating spirit. J mention i^
also because I think some of our shii)'s company did not give him as full,
credit tor his excellent services as he deserved.
PROSPECTIXG nEIHOCT.
2G3
"$
of htinillea
1h ; sue] I a
u'd liorst'H ;
"io-knives ;
skin; then
nid Palas-
ciroi'ts to
v])o ini^dit
iiioriiiug,
li-inakiiig,
a genera!
or eiglit,
only one,
— that is,
f]i the full
r jouniey,
?n, accus-
riie other
le jiortlou
ice. We
;lo a large
my thin"
(I be able
[y fell to
t to give
despei'ate
ly thing.
J. tearing
diligence
id Egypt
le Tii'rks
er of tlie
) Beiroiit
tt.s. We
;h off at
lip, go to
vlien oiv
'euoug .,
ve nevHi'
nuisano>'
idniiring
ention it
ii aa full
Wei!, oiit of uur eight, three were .selected to aien.I to all busin^'ss cm
nee ted with the e.xpedition. The rest of us had nothing to do It 100^^.
Wd Te ' f" ^ "^^r^M*' "*''"*'^ '^^■'^'''*' "«^^' 1-us.S nestled amo.'V
InHv T .'^T" ■^'"•"^^^'^^y «F«'^'l •'•'"•oad over an upland that slo, ed
Snt"'.n. ","'•' T^ f^r^'. *'" "'™'^*'^'- ''f Lebanon ll at
rill 1 V i'-, '1^"'''''"^ ^'' '^^'*''" "^ t'^« transparent l,lue water that
£el wlTlTV'"'' «lnp(we did not k'now ther. were shark
at the costumes. The.se are picturesque and fanciful, Inifc not so varied
aB a ConstantnH.pleand Sn.yrna; the won.en of Beii.out add an ago -
m the wo former cities the se.x wear a thin veil which one can 'see
hmugl. (and tlK,y often expose their ancle.s,) but at Eeirout thev cover
their entire fa^es M'ltli dark-colored or black veils, so that thev look 1 ke
mummi<.s, and <:lien expose their ),reasts to the public. A ycli 4 le'
Zu hlS r"r T 1 k"'"'^^ -'-steered to^show us aiiun,Hi;f^,
and sa d it would afford iini gre. j-leasure, because he was studying
the lounds, however, he calle.l fo.- remuneration-said he hoiKnl the
gentlemen would give him .. trifle in the wav of a few piastres ecudv'
lent to a few hve cent pieces.) We did so. The Cons .1 was suZsl i
when he heard it, and said he knew the young fellow's family veivwel
and that they were an old and highly respectable family, and w nl a
n.ndred and fifty thousand dollars! Honle people, so 'stuated would
We been ashamed of the berth he had with us ind'his manner of ^t
ing into it.
At tlie appointed time our business committee reported, and said all
things were ,n readiness-that we were tr. start to-dvy, with horse ack
animals, and tents and go to Baalbec, Da. -^ns, the Sea of Tiberia:,^ and
thence sou hward by the way of the scene of Jacob's dream ai d ot^h r
notable Bible localities to Jenisalem-from thence probably to tie De u
Sea^ but possibly not and then strike for the oceaA and rejoin thesh
three or four weeks hence at Joppa ; terms, five dollars a day apiece i
gold and everything to be furnished by the dragoman. They S%;^
and did not sharm. my judgment by believing a word of it. I said nothin.
however but packed up a bhmket anu a .shawl to sleep in, pipe L.d
B?ble"'l'I'V""l ""''"f" t"'-!' '' I"^-*f'^'^«' - ^'-'J-'-ik and a
Bible. I also took along a towel and a, cake of .soan, to inspire respect
m the Arabs, who would take me for a king in dis^aiise ' ^ '
We ^yere to select our horses at .3 p. n. At that hour Abraham, the
i eie, that those horses were the hardest lot I ever did come across, and
tJieiraccoutrements were m exquisite keeping with their .style. One brute
had an eye out ; another had iiis tail sawed "off close, like^t rabbTt ml
was irroud of it : another had a bony ridge running from his neck to hi.s
nli \^ 'rf T '■"'"?'^ "Uueducts one sees about Rome, and had a
neck on him like a bowsprit ; they all limped and had sore backs, and
■r^'-
2G4
SUMPTUOUS VAOAnONDIZI\(i.
ii
It
likewise nw places und old sciiles scattered about tlieir i)orsoius like brv„
nails ,a a hair trunk ; their gaits were marvelous to cl.utellate 1; d
replete with vanety-uiuler way the picrssion looked like a^ fleet iu
''"/: Ti }^ r' ^''^^■^"^- ^^"^^'«^- ^^'^««k his head and said :
iiiat dragon is going to got himself iiito trouble fet.-hi„,r ,i,ese old
crates out of the hospital the way they are, unless he Las got'a ! niH "
I said nothing. This display was exactly according i., A .^uide S
and were we not traveling by the guide-book > I select.,.| , cert a o^e
because I thought I saw hini sliy, and I thought tliat a l.oSe 1 a had
■spirit enough to shy was not to be despised.
At r, o',look p. M., we came to a halt he.-e on tiie breezy .sum'.iit of a
sHjely mo,uitain overlooking the .-a, and the handsome^ valley w t:i^
dwelt soni. of tJioPe eniev;M,sxng Piicnicians of ancient times wo road
so much about; all ai.-nd us .re what were once the dominion of
Hiram, King of Tyre, waa furm.hod tin,l.r fi'om the cedars othe^
Lebanon hills to build portions uf i.iug .Solomon's Temple with.
Shortly after SIX our ]«c)-. '..li,, ainved. I had not seen it bef,.re
and a good right 1 had to be o.teaished. We had nineteen serving ,S
o e Z^^T '''''' r^'"" ' \' "'" '' ^"'^''' ^^^•'^--- It looked uico
one, too, as it woumi am.mg the rocks. I wondered what in the ve- 7
mischief we wanted with such a vast tuni-out as that, for ei'd men '
J«.t what was coming. I went oif, without waiting for servin- men
mui ,nsadd ed my hoi.e. and washed such portions of his i^ils and S
^ ic !ok 1 ''''" "I'r if '' '^''''' '''''' '^""•''^"*' ^itl"i ^vith blue,
and gold, aud ciim.son, and all manner of splendid adornment ! I was
in in r"; f 'f 1'^''^ ^*''"S-^^* ''^^'' ""'« "-^^^ beadsteads, and set then
up in the tents ; they put a soft mattress and pillows and good blankets
^ rrnr wl ''"t T^'f '"'• ^^^'^*' '"'^y rigged^ table aW
white^ of '1 '^ placed pewter pitchers, b.x.sins, soap, and the
tent and .n''~'"?r' ^'' ''''^' "''"^ ' ^''^^ l'^"^*"! *« I'^^^^ts in the
^^'if 1, ,'7'°"^^' imt our small trifles in them foi- convenience,
aiid If we needed pins or such things, they w^ere sticking every where
svW «n^' iT" ^^^",*^"« ^;^«M'i"g out, all light-but it isn't the
It grew dark, and they put candles on the tables-candles set in bright,
b!iT' ^"''" candlesticks. And soon the bell-a genuine, simon-pure
we VaTaint "' T" """''^ *' " '^" ^^^««"-" ^ thought before tha
7m- it w , t V 7 '"'"IT'. ^'"^ "^^ ^'^'^ ^'»^ «"«' '^t ^^'^'^t, provide,;
01 , it was to be used for nothing b-t an eating-saloon. Like III the,
t w,ts high enough for a fomily . 1 a-aftes to live in, and wa. v
A Sr^"' 1r""l^ bnght-eoior. . .dthin. It was a'g^o^t , :^ .
A table for eight, and eight canvas cliairs; a table-eloth and ua >ii.4
s like hp\m
plate, and
fleet in a
I these old
a I' nuit."
;iii(le-b(;ok,
'tiiin horse
e that had
in'iiit oi' a
ley -wiire
IS wo read
unions of
■s of these
h.
it Ijfi'rre,
fving luan
)okcd (ike
I the very
t men. I
line bacon
md knew
ing men,
).s and his
shold five
I'ith bine,
! I was
set them
blankets
ble about
and the
Jts in the
venience,
■y where,
floor ! I
isn't the
: is at a
n bright,
non-j)ure
fore tha
[)rovide,',
'• "thej -
'a^ . on'
1- . .ace.
nap(-.i!,,;
UNNECESSARY APOLOtiY.
265
v'::^,:dtr ^^rL:^rr/^"^''cd to -n the th^gs we
I>^'^-s, dinnor-platesltm!; tid . i TT' \ ^''''''' "'"^ forks,°on,,-
v..': ^vondeiful ! And thev c!^^[ S/l *^"l^''"'^«°"'e«t kind of style. It
in baggy trowsers and tS^i f f^^^lllXl^*- 7'"" f ^t«'A>Ilows
of roast-mutton, roast chicken m.^^ ° '"' <l>">it'r which consisted
fPPles, and delioions giu es 'he^ • n?r''' ^'" "*"'^'' ^'•"'"'' *«'»' 1'"'^^";?,
^cl eatez. for weeks, an h^ . bl nl ^T '"'""" ''''^''^ *^'-' '^^ -«
yennan silver can.l esticks an otl eTinP ^^"'ifl'l'^^"-'"^^^. >vith its large
down to for a good while a Ivot h ,f ■=^' V'"" '"'^ ^'^'''^ ''^ '''"^ ^^t
I'O-uig in 'nulapologizijK^rtl ellto^ ff ^I'^^onmn, Abraham, came
able confusion of gc>ttul.^Lerw^v i' ' "'I "'""""* "^ *''« ^"^^^°id-
to do a great deal bettei-ln future '^ '' "'""^ ^""^' '''^'' '""» l>'-onming
be a pilgrim to the Holy Land. '"' " '^^""'^"^ Privilege to
CHAPTER XLII.
WE are camped near Temni)i-pl-Ioh( — a name wliicli the boys have
simplitled a yood deal, for the sake of couvenieuce in .spelling.
Tliey call it JackHunville. It .sounds a little strangely, here in the Valley
of Lebanon, but it has the merit of being etisier to remember than the
Arabic name.
" COME LIKE SI'IIUTS, SO DEl'ART."
" Tlie niglit shall bn filled with music,
A!i(l tho cavi'S tliat infest tlie diiy
Shall fold tlieir tents like tlie Arabs,
And as silently .steal away."
I slept very soundly last night, yet when the dragoman's bell rang at
lialf-past five this morning and the cry went abroad of " Ten minutes to
dress for breakfast !" I heard both. It surprised me, because I have not
heard the breakfast gong in the ship for a month, and wlienever we have
had occasion to fire a salute at daylight, I have only found it out in the
course of conversation afterward. However, cam2)ing out, even thougli
it be in a gorgeous tent, makes one fresh and lively in the morning —
especially if the air you are breathing is the cool, fresli air of the
mountains.
I was dressed within the ten minutes, and came out. The saloon tent
had been stripped of its sides, and had nothing left but its roof; so when
"we sat down to table we could look out over a noble 2)anorama of nioiui-
tain, sea, and hazy valley. And sitting thus, the sun rose slowly up and
suffused the picture with a world of rich coloi-ing.
Hot mutton chops, frieil chicken, omelette,'?, fried potatoes and cofiee — -
all excellent. This was the bill of fare. It was sauced with a savage
appetite purchased by hard riding the day befoi'e, and refreshing sleep in
a pure atmosphere. As I called for a second cup of coftee, I glanced
over my shoulder, and behold our white village was gone— the splendid
tents had vanished like magic 1 It was wonderful how quickly those
Arabs had "folded their tents" and it was w^onderful also, how quickly
they had gathered the thousand odds and ends of the camp together and
disappeared with them.
By half-past six we were under way, and all the Syrian world seemeil
oridk
some tim.. to think wl.at tea n i7l. •. T '"''"' '^"'■" ^'•.^"'-' <'^"-
out. When I.e ,l.n' on d 1 1 tl '"" '■'''''' ''" ''"^•*' "''•^^••' i*
1.0 look. liko .ur:iISi/'t:^t;'^^::rr''fr''' "'';?' 'v^'^
beautiful, and their Ion,, un. ler li .^'^ thT, , ''"' ""l''' '""■" "'**
expression. Thev Inm- i,, meX" . . ^ , '••^>^''<''l'>',i;Iy "yalh.s"*
nuikeatraclMntho s liT t .f' ^r'^''' "^"•'^^''""•'^ "^ ^"'^t. that
not particular a W t '^i ' J .; K^f " ''^7" -'* -* <>f it. They are
could Lite it A t ' tl . r w I P '"'''''' •'"* " t"^"1.stone if thev
would pierc^ til htttV^ T ^^'i*^!' !'«« >-<^<ll- on it that
rdief /n notld " u^ r^ h t! ' '^ "T '""'^"" ^■"•' >'"' -" «'"!
their actions tl.U ev e iov lien. T """''" ^-'^ *^"?'- '^''^•^' "'"- '^^
to^a„.itohaveai;-:fiS:';;;,,;x^<' '"^'^""' '" "'"■•' '-'^
nc^ua.:i:r:?i"5e;5ch;;"'\^r"'"^^^^^^^ ^ ^-- '"--
horses' before, but none so remark.^ T'''' 7 ''"^'^ •"'"' ven.arkable
could sln^ and thireiills^pHlT",' "'■ • ,^ '''*'^^^'^ '^ ^'«''^'^ ^J'"*
He walked ui, tu that « it , ,, 1 ■ ' . """.'"-'I"}-, '■■•"■'I't .-. Ii.ivstack.
Jevtl hmvep. will l,e the death „f !hi, h„™, » , "h - "'" ''""^■
ktck a fly Ttr tm of h 1 ' '':;" ^'■'^' ^^''"' '*"^* ^^l'«» '"' t''i«« to
variety. ^ He i.i tot: T ,7*^ ^''' ^""'' ^"'*' ^^ ^^ *«" """^J'
He ..aches aro:;;:J'S^.Uif "^ts" ^ ^''T'T ^'f "•^' "^'"^ Z'^'^'"
had "; t:i r :L t JTtl;;;i '7'-'^ rr ^"-* ^->- ««
not of that character. I k oVth X^jfl^fj y,"*"""' f^'^^' ''"* ^" '"^
brought the horse out for n I- '^'r'}"^ *^'i» i^e'*. I'^cause when he
bridl^ and J2:^V1:^T''m:' ^[T^ j-lcingatthe
away, you ferocious^east, and break ^ou- Ir ^^Z:;; T"^ *" 7'
ho^e .as not doing any thin, in tl.; woHd:':d ti^ loc^^/ul^t
" Excuse th,^ slang-no other >vord will desciibo it.
III'. Mi
hi'»'
'A I
208
ox IIISTOI '
Av.u,f..I tolmuup a-ainst.s„iu,.!„i,..,'.iul u.ink. WIrmuhvi- he is 'not
•s lyiii- at tliin-M. or loacliii.o- „ft(,T a Hy, he wants to do tliat vi'f How
It would siii-prise his owner to know this.
We hau^ l,ec.n in a historical section of country all .lav. At noon we
cmn],(.(l three hours and looi, Inndi.'on at Mokseh, near 'the junction of
the Lolmnon .Mountains and the Jehel el Kuneiviseh. ,->.<! 1,;,k,„l down
into the mnruMis.., lev.-], -ardeu-like Valley of L'.l \a^n. io-ni-ht v ,• ire
cann.H.g near tlie sane valley, and have a very wide sween of U in view'
\U' can see tl... loni^ wlade-haeked rid.t^e of Mount Hern.on i.roiectinLr
above the eastern Inlls The ".lews of Hern.on" are falling upon us
now, an.l the tents are almost soaked with thein.
Over tia. way fr-an n« and hi-he)- up the valley, we ean disceni,
. n-ough tla^g asses, the fanit outlines of the won.huful ruins of Baalhoc
the supposed J>.;d Gad of Hcriptnre. Joshnn, an.l anotla-r person, were
tlie two spies wJ,o were sent into this land of Canaan l.y tli,. chil.lren of
Israel to report upon its chare.cter-I n.ean thov were th.- si.i.s wJio
reporte.l titvorably. They tot.k hack with tluMU soine speoiin.Mis ..f the
^'rapes ot tins ccnintry, and in the ehildreu's i.lcture-l.oaks tli'n' are always
represented as l.earin- one in..nstrous l.nnch swm- lu a pole between
tiieni, u respectable load fur a pack-train. The Hunday-sehool books
ex«,s,rf,^^rated It a httle. The grai..s are nu^st e.vc.dlent to this dav but
the bunches are not so hn-e as those in the pictun-s. i was sui-orised
and hurt when J saw them, because those colossal bunches of m-anes were
one ot my most cherished iuvenilc tra.litions.
Joshua reported f.uorabiy, and the childivn of Israel journeved on,
with Moses at the head of the f,^Mih.,l government, and Joshua in
oommand ot the ai my of si.x hundred thousand ii,..diting men. Of women
and duldreu an.l civilians ti.ere was a countless swarm, or all that
miglity host, none but the two fa.ithful spies ever li .ed to set their feet
m tlie Ironused Lan.l. They .,.,1 tlicM lescen.^ ts wande,e,l forty
years m the de.se rt, and then Moses, the gifted warrior, poet, states m m
^ philosopher, went up into Pisgah and met his mysterious fate.
VVliero he was buried no man know.s- fo--
" • • * 110 iiiiiM .hi,'^ tlmt seimlclnv,
And no iinni siiw it eVr —
Foi'tliL' Sons of(;o(l a|)tunR'(l tli.' sod
And liiiil tin; doad iiiiui tlu'iv '"
Then Joshua began his terrible raid, and ,- J ,ho clear to thi.s
Jiaal-Gad, he swept tlie land like the Geni of -struction He
slaughtered the people, laid waste tlu^ir soil, aim razed their cities to the
ground. Ih, wasted thirty-one kings also. One may call it that, though
really it^ cau hardly be called wasting them, because there were always
plenty of kings in those days, and to spare. At any rate, he destroyed
tluity-one kuigs, and divided up their realms among his Israelites He
divided up this valley stretched out here before us, ;tnd so it was ouec
Jewish territory. The Jews have long since disappeared from it
however. '
NOAH'h TOMn-AN- IXKOIITI NATK
I'l.uI'I.K.
200
li^s under lock Jl Ly. fNW 11 J' l'l<';t hat,) u lu.v Noal.'.s to.nl,
-ul ..Hoys tho ark tJ^ .i^^lnJt Z ^^JT' *'""•'; "''' ^''"«
unoo floatoil. """^ ^^''-^ '<''t of a vaiiirtlu-d world
1 make no anoloL'y for dotailiiKr tl„ i • ,.
news to sona, of n.^'^.d^ at am- ;!;'""' -*-•-<-"• It will b.
, J^^''''''« toinl) is luiiltof stone -md w' . •,
i"^'. Bueksheesh let us in. T t , il i;,?;''';'' r'' '\'''»^' ^'ono la.iM-
ffi-uyo of tla, honored <,ld navi! or t- i' ^ " ^"""' '"^••""^" ^ha
>tself: It is only about IVnu'-tLd/t.^r '■'"' ^1' '''"' •-"
Hlmdow hke a li,d,tnin-rod. TJu/ a ij^^ f ^ '","'* ^'''''"^ ^''^^t '^
wh.av Noah was buried can only e' o 1 '" " *'"^^ ^^""''"-^ ^V^^
people. The evidence is prett^/Zra t s ;! "
present at tlu- burial, and .sh.me.1 I ol 1 Z^' "."''/''^' "'!' ^^ ^^^-^K wa.s
"utted the knewle.b.e to their ,W . ' ^,"" •'•■•^^■'^^"^i""ts, who tran.s-
aciuaintance of inenibeis of .so nsne 2ki„ /''''I l'^^'"^'^"* to make the
'? lu'oud of. It was the nex t " '• ^'""'^■- ^* ^^''^'^ '^ ^1""'",' to
himself. "^ *'""- *" ^^''i''^' ii-'-iuainted with Noah
Noah's ihi luorabh- voya-'e will mIu^-. . ,. .
lienceforwai . ■ ^ ° ''''' ''^' '' I'^'^'^^«'' '^ J' ving interest for me,
If ever an o].,,rossc(l ra -e exister) H- ;. *i
".-^ "nder the iAh, aan tyranny of L)!'' "'% "" '"' ^''"""'^ "'^'•"""J
wonld let Ku:,.- .nnihilate Turk^'Vutlle '" ^'''^"''.- ^ "'^^' ^"^'-P^
make it difficult to f5, ' the >tl f """'^'' '"'^ •'"""yl' to
diving-bell. The Syri ^ ,' .^ "'"^ r^'"^"^ '^ ^Jivining-rod'^or a
% n systen. of taxuLu th,.;"v. J:;:!^,;!"^ J?'* ^''^>: -- ^-"ud down
year their taxes were heavy emu ■ V, " "^l^^'»-.^^'^tum frantic. I.ast
^.eyhave been increased 4 "a dil, '^pT'^'^^r;^- '^"^ ^^^ J-u-
^l.em m times of famine in Ln er ' f On "''' f'^^'"' ^'^'^^^'^^
ment ha,s levied a tax of o»e-f. ^/ /f h ^ \''^' "* ^^'^'^ ^''^^ ^^^vern-
This is only half the ^^JvUr^^J^J^;:^ proceeds of the laml.
nmself with aj.pointin ■• tax-c^ .ctors h^;'/'"-"'"'-^'^ ^'^"'^ "^'t trouble
axes ought to alunt to in a m. n ^ ""^r "1^^''' "'' ^'--
lection out. He calls the rich ine- tL ct- 1 ii , -'V ^"\^:"-">« »J'^" col-
«lH.culation. pays the Pacha on k: s ^f '; ^ V^t f''' ^'^''^"' -^'^'^ *''«
-ho sell ,n turn to a ,m.tical horde o? s^H "^ fj:^ f '^,J '" Tf""'- ''■>'
pel tLe pea.sant to briu'.- his litt'o +,.,•« r ."" ' '') • ^hcse latter ..•om-
cost. li „u,st be w iil I V ou -;;"" '" 'I'' ^■'"''^■^' '^* ^"•'^ -^-^
nminder returned to the pro hcer X;/,.''* "'""■*' ""^^ ^he re-
day after , lay, while the\,rXc i-N ? dlv ir '"-T- ^'-'li^^ ^^''-^ ^'»t-
last th. poor wretch, who^-an not Int u 2," , r;^^""^' ^^'^ ^'-"^ ^ ''^t
h'
•270
AN UNFORTUNATE I'KOPLE.
appeal to tlie stranger t.) know if tlio groat world will not houw day come
to their relief and m\v. them. The Sultan has been lavishing money like
Abater m Kiighmd and Parin, but hi subjects aro suffering for it now
This fashion of camping out bf-svJdors me. Wo have boot-jacks ami a
bath-tub, now and yet nil tho mysteries the pack-mules carry are not
revealed. What next? . i'^
I '
C H A P T E K X J. I I I .
livii.,, i>«; the dia,^^:^ : ;;;;?^t;; nf *^' '"'"'?■ ^^t''' \y «^^ -^
'Standiiig near tl,e r.»Klsi.l o P u, T ^ '"''' ""t- 1'^^^'** ^'^ «*""««
'""•■king LouuckHc's d i ' 1 ;".'"T*!^' "'"l recoyniml (J,c> oust,.,a of
olcl patriaix-haltimerLd tW^ i, l-sraeh ,, Leld them .sac,v<l in the
•so likewise. Vi AmeHo , f '"" ^^'■'!''«', l'"'' ^"'^'^^ clcsceudauls, do
oxtend his pro, eit i ' f,;^''''"f' "' "'^^'l^'^''^"^-^'- ^^'""I'l «oon Midely
ni^jt,unde.'s:K',;u:'S^^i::r:ti:;r'''^ ^''^'^"' ^'^•■^'"-^' ^^
tliev Dile ii ,„? !^ ? ' '^'^ '^^'^^ wmnow their wlieat as lie di<l—
ll.ii.g, uever Ie«m any tlii,,.- ^ ^^ ' ^''"> '"■■"' ""'•'" ""y
snJli!:, t''"'' i'"^"'"'^'^'' i"*^" '^'^^ '■^"^'' ^^'« Temple of J upiter, and several
Hmaller le-nplos, are chuste.vd together in tl/e mid.t of one of these nT^
Hi
272
MAONIFFCENT BAALBEC.
crable byrian villages, and look strangely enough in such plebian
company. Ihese temples are built upon massive substructions that
migJit support a world almost ; the matei-ials used are r)locks of stone ^.s
large as an omnil)us— very few, if any of them, nre smaller tlian'u
carpenters tool chest— and these substructions are tiuversed by tunnels
of masonry through which a train of cars might pass. With such foun-
dations as these, it is little wonder tluit Baalbec has lasted so Ion<' The
lemple of the Sun is nearly three hundred feet long and one hundred
and sixty feet wide. It had fifty-four columns around it, 1)ut only six-
are standing now— the others lie broken at its base, a confused and
picturesque heap. The six columns are perfect, as also are their bases
Corinthian c^ipitals and entablaturc-and six more shapely columns do
not exist. The columns and the entablature together are ninety feet
high— a prodigious altitude for shafts of stone to reach, truly—and yet
one only thinks of their beauty and symmetry when lookin-r at them •
the pillars look slender and delicate, the (uitalllature, with it? elaborate
sculpture, looks like rich stucco-work. But when you have gazed aloft
till your eyes aie weary, you glance at the great fragments of pillars
among which you are standing, and find that they are eight feet through •
and with them lie beautiful capitals apparently as large as a small
cottage J and a so single slabs of stone, superbly sculptured, that are four
or hve leet thick, and would completely cover the floor of any ordinary
parlor. Ymi wonder where these monstrous things came from and it
takes some iittle time to satisfy yourself that the airy and graceful fabric
that toxvers above your head is made up of their mates. ''It seems too
preposterous.
The Temple of Jupiter is a smaller ruin than the one I have been
speaking of, and yet is immense. It is in a tolerable state of preserva-
tion. One row of nine columns stands almost uninjured. They are
sixty-hve feet high and support a sort of porch or roof, Avhich connects
them with the roof of the building. This porch-roof is composed of
tremendous slabs of stone, which are so finely sculptured on' the under
side that the work looks like a fresco from below. One or two of these
.slabs had fallen, and again I wondered if the gigantic masses of carved
stone that lay about me M-ere no larger than those above my head
Within the temple the ornamentation was elaborate an.l colossal Wln+
a wonder of architectura! beauty and grar.deur this edifice must have
been when it was new ! And what a noble picture it an<l its statelier
companion, with the chaos of mighty fragments scattered about them
yet makes m the mo'^ulight I '
I can not conceive how these immense blocks of stone were ever
hail led from the quarries, or how they were ever' raised to the dizzy
heights they occupy in the temples. And yet these s'^culi.tured blocks ar"e
triHes in size compared wici; the rough-hewn blocks that form the wide
verandah or platform which su'Tound.s the Great Temple. One stretcli of
that iilatfonn, two hundred feet long, is comnosi^d of blosks of stone as hir"-
and some of them larger, than a street-car. They surmount a wall abou^ '
uj.A
^ois:^;;^ Spa.:;S'^:;;n rr 1^"^^ r^^- '-* ^'-^ -'^
vlic i.latfbrn,. These io re tl ■ o , , ' ^"1""' '^''^•^''^''- ^''^'^i'^" <><
them was al.out as lou' 's tl s """''''' /"^'^ ^ ^''^''-^'^ «"it e=u..|. of
-.U.S. they wevo a tllTrir ! ^ ll'^tl '/t r' "'' ^ ""'' ^''^'"^'' •^^■
Porliaps two railway frei-^ht Li I'V \ •^''''■' '^''^" '^ «ti-eet car.
'•"'I- might better ri,^^!„]^\i ^''^l ^''^^^^tpatteru, placed en.l t..
st.nu.s stretch uearlv^ " u h Med "w. /y-^''-<f .''-^th those three
'^^■" "f then, are sixty fou t L' " '"•'' '^'V''"'''''^" ^'■''^ -^•i"'"''-
■n-y are hniit into tlu^.v^ ke u . ^^ "' '' '""^ *''" ^'"'''^ ''^ ^ix'v-.uuo
■n-y are there, hut 1 wt '.>^ ;,:''"'. "'^''^' ^'''' '''""''^ ^'^ ^'■-""'•
''"'i -f 't .te:naiK.at that w^^s' dl t '^ff ""• ^ ^"^^ '^ «^'^" the
=..-at .alls are as ex j d " r ' "" ^i'' '! -"'"^^ ''""'^^- ^'1 < '"-"
'"•ic'ks iu these davs \ r ' ' -^ '^ '^ l'""-^^ thi>,;^s ,,,. ,,„iK, .,{■
'^-'""■e ...any a ceutlur; a!:,' \!f::tC'i! ^'"^'^ '""1 '""^ '""=''"'"'1
'<■.«'■ -such ton.ides as th'.-c" ' " "'"" "^ ^''''''''.y <''^uld hai'dlv
^-;s:i:;;:t:;;;;a;c3a':;,r;;ir:;j^^
the luate of the ar-.est stoi V ,, ' '"'^ '\''\' '"'^- -^ '^ '^ ^''^at pit la.v
-f that old fV.r.otteu W Vh.^ i d "• ./' ''^^' *''"'- J^^^^t as the ^iauti;
they had left i?, to r^-, in f ■ ' ^^'^^''/^'''^ ^^"^^''^ <-'aIlod hen..e- p.st as
T'ds euornulus l>!ock lie \h ^ ' ^t I V'"'^ '^'" ''^"^'' '-»'^<'« then,
-a solid .uass fourteen ^ 1 -' ^ "^: "^ TJ^^ ^" ^''^ '•-'^'-■^' ^-"'«
-'veuty feet Ion;, : Tuo 1>U iCco d t " 'l ^^^"' '"^''"^ '^'^^ ^'''^^
"" its surface, fVoa, one e hT^? it t t ' 7'"" '''^f'^ "^" *^'^^^^' "t''"'-'
^<"- - "-' -• two to walk o!; eil;'j; ;,!'" '"'"■••' "'^•' ^'^"- '-"^ <^-m-;^u
--.•ibe .h .i|. poor nttle li;.; '^^^ i: ; :^ ^ ;-,;-' 1>'-H.ec wcadd
'•••ms and would add the town, tin- mn tv H e"^ Wl' ""^"'*':'""^
-and SNvearin,,. thns, he infal ihlv corr t T 1 ^^''^^ ^■^^^"^' tron.
<loes not fall in ami flatt-Mi oMt ,: 1 ^- V' '' ^l'^^'' '^"'" S'"<'"t ruin
'<ind outof over ^isin.' ei '.i 1: V'^ "^ '■"^'*'-'^^' ''"'^ ^'^=^'-'> thoir
..K-ain. forev.,.. " ' ' '''*^'""^ "!"'" ""y avails or monuments
Pro] .erly. with the sorry nd'(- w.-l,..M. i ■.
to Damascus. Tt was neisv ; ^ / ',' ^^"^'^ thre>. day's journey
was necessary hec^m^' m' d i J Y ^^ ''"^•'^'' '^'^ ''' "^ l'^^-* tbnu two. It
-^<i ill-treateJ h^i hU L; ^;^ "' T'"'^ ^*' '•'"^''^■'' ^^'' t^- tired
i^indness in ret n-^ and theh I '^ "' ^^'^'"•^^^ithful seryice desoryec
-i^ri^hteousn^r^nr t^ ,. :;;;;L^;? :n;:r\''r '-''"'' ''' --''-
^-t:ttr s l^::^:!::i - ;^ -.-.. we ™ ;; '-is
.-tot_i.,,.,,,,;r;;-.a^y;::-i^^^^^^^^
1
Ii7l
PII.(iKI>l KIDKLITV TO LAW.
thi'ough the example of its devotees. We .said tlie Saviour wJio i)itie(i
dinnl) boasts and tauglit tliat tlio ox must be rescued from the mire even
oil the Sabbath day, would not have counseled a forced march like this
Wo .said the " lon;r trip" was exhausting and therefore dangerous in the
blistering heats of summer, even when the ordinary day.s'' sta"es were
tiuversod, and if we persisted in this hard march, mine of us mi<dit b(>
stnc'.ceii down with the fevers of the country in coiise(juence''of it
Nothing could move the julgrims. They »«/*•< press on. Men mio-ht
tlio, horses might die, but they mu.st enter upon holy soil next we^k
with no ,Sabbath-l)r.3aking stain upon them. Thus thev were willin" to
oommit a sin against the .spirit of religious law, in order that they mi^lit
preserve the letter of it. It was not worth while to tell them " the
Iett(M' kills." I am talking now about personal friends ; men wjiom I
hke ; men who are good citizens ; who arc; honorable, upright, conscien-
tious ; l)ut whose idea of the Saviour's religion seems to me distorted
I iiey lecture our shortcomings unsparingly, und every night they call us
together and read to us chai)ters fi'om the Testament that are full of
gentleness, of charity, and of tender mercy ; and then all the next day
tliey stick to then saddles clear up to the summits of these ru<--<.ed
mountains, and clear down again. Apply the Testament's gentleness
and chanty, and tender mercy to a toiling, worn and weary horse 1~
Nonsense— these are for God's hnman creatures, not His domlj ones
WJiat the pilgrims choose to do, respect for their almost sacred charactei'
<femaiKls tliat I should allow to jiass— but I would so like to catch any
other member of the party riding his horse up one of these exhaustim'
nills once I "
We have given the pilgrims a good many e.Kamples that might benetit
tlu^n, but It is virtuethrown away. They have never lieard across word
out of our lips toward each other--])ut they have (piarreled once or
twice. We love to hear them at it, after they have been lecturing us.
Tlie \evy first thing they did, coming ashore at Bierout, was to quarrel
111 the l)oat. I have said I like them, and I do like them—but every
time they read me a scorcher of a lecture I mean to talk back in print '
Not content with doubling the legitimate stages, they switched o«' tlu-
i:>ani road and went away out of the way to visit an absurd fountain
called Figia, b.icause Baalam's ass had drank there once. So we jour-
neyed on through the terri})le hills and deserts, and the roasting sun', and
then far into the night, seeking the honored pool of Baalains ass, the
patron saint o: all pilgrims like ns. 1 tind no entry ))ut this in mv note-
book :
Lnrien, unsi,gl,tly alls, ami latt.ily tl,ro„ul, wil.!, ro.kv .sleiicrv, aiHlVanimMl nt
Jibout clove ii <, ,.|ock nt lu-lit oil the banks ot :i li,ni,i,l stivani, near a Syrian villa<rc
, I-»o not know it.s nan)('~.,l() not wish to know it-want to go to lied." Two lioi^c^
lame, (iniiip and .(adc's) and the oIluTs worn out. .la.'k and I walked three or four
niile.s over tiie hills, and led tlie lioises. Fun— but oC a mild type."
Twelve or thirteen hours in the saddle, even in a Cliri.stian land and
i" w]io pitied
;ie mire even
cli like this.
;erous in the
stages were
lis iniglit be
uence of it.
Men might
next week.
re willing to
I they might
them " the
leii Mliom I
lit, conscien-
e distorted,
they call ns
are fidl of
ie next day
lese rugged
gentleness,
y horse ? —
lomlj ones.
'A charactei'
o catch any
exhausting
ight benefit
[ cross word
ed once or
'oturing us.
to quarrel
-but evei'v
in jirint.
•lied oil" the
d fountain
> Ave Jour-
ig sun, and
i"s ass, the
u mv note-
^VKAHV ri{AM.;(,Lix,i
J75
■'M:
" t.'li"«tian climate, and on a oood Iio.sp i . , f
an oven like Hma in'i vura-llT I' " *'"''^o"»' journov ; !.;;: i,,
'»'cl " thort-sliij"" ^iV;S; .vlT" , " ""'f'^"' '^■"' "^^^^ ^«^- -X "'^
and yet must b^ ;hip .d ^^li :;ur:al^, 'haX *'"* '' ''''^' '"'^' ^--
all day long, till the bloo,l come from 1 ,' J 't '""'"*""* '^ '''"'''''''
you every tune you strike, if vou ar 1 H' o ' "'' «'"^"«-"ce hurrs
vememberod in bitterness of sn i" ., ' 'TT''- V " •''''"•»«>' ^" '-
ULeral division of a man's Ife , '*"^ '"^'' '""''''''^'^i'^ f'»'' -
:,t, ,-
f^i;
piirt'y o^■l'l
1 i'iiin|iiM! lit
liini villnjnri'.
Two li()r.ses
lii'oc nr Cmir
iL,:^-)'
laud
and
C il A P T h:
I >
It
X L 1 Y
miiK
in'.vi (iiiy v,;i,s iui uutni.uT \;puu Men and liinses liutlt. It wa«
uiiuth-i' lliirteenhoru' stvctoli (iiioludii:,-- uu liuiir's " uooiiin'r.") It
was over i]i(^ iKirrcnosf clialk-liills ami tlirou'Ji the bah
xUhnt canons that
<'veu Syiia can show. Tlio iicat (juivoml in tho air every wlicrc. ' In
the canons wc ahno.st sniotlieved in th<! baking atiMOsphero. (In lii.ifh
-•round the reflection from tli*^ clialk-Iiills ^-as blinding. It was cruel to
\irge tlje crippled lioi-ses. but it had to be done in ordei- to nialce Danias-
cuK Saturday night. We saw ancient tombs and temples of fanciful
architecture carved out of the solid rock high uj) in the face of ])i'eci-
jiices above our heads, Imt we iiad neither time nor strength to clind) uj)
t]ier3 and examine tliem. The terse language of my' note-book Avill
answer for the rest of tliis day's experiences :
15mke ciunp iit 7 A. .m., iind luiul
y trip throuf,']! llu' Zcb Daiw valley and
till' rough iiioinitidii.s,— lioisc's limpiu- and that Arab .'<civc(;!i-o\v[ lliat (iofS most
th« siugiii.i; and carries tl
and no water t
() ai'inR---\vui
with iioni(',L,M'anati', iip
jivitcil ]5aal
A,s.s l''iiuntiii
iti'V-ski
he urvc,
mil qui
11 of l''i
thousand i
niies ahca;
of
course,
)cau;i!ul stream in a chasm, lined tliick
water nut of .Siberia — <
id 111
aid n
looiied an liour at the ei
uuU'diook's do not say ISaalai:
ill Assvr
A
la,
iiid til
c(diU'.st
111 s Ass ever dr-uilc taere — some-
11 imposing on tlie ]ulgiinis,_niay lie. I'.athed in it— Jack audi. Only
second -ice water. It is the \
mile down
nl
I'ool, 11 one couli
to where it joins. Beautiful ]
souri
awaKe-
if the Aliana river— only one-half
;'iaiit trees all round— ,f) shady and
1am III a torrent. Over it is a very an
to have been for tlie worshi)) of the deity of tl
-vast stream k'usIics straight out from under the mouii-
story — suppo.sed
y ancient ruin, with no kiiov.n
^\'^etehe(l nest of liuiuan vermiii abdut the f
le fountain or IJaalam's A.ss or soi
dieeks, pallo
iiid ravenous Iiuiiifcr
)f sickness, sores, lu'oji'ctiiig bi
ountaiii— ra,;,'s, dirt, sunken
'lull, aching misery in their eyes
ig Ironi every eloijuent til;re and muscie from head to
foot. How they sprang upon a bone, how they (.•nuudied the bread we gave them
Sueli as these to swarm about one and watidi every bite lie takes, with r're(Mly look
icd the pi
iiul swallow unconsciously every time he swallo'w.s, ns if thev half I
eious morsel M-.'iit down their own thro.its— hurry up the caravan 1—1 never siiall
enjoy a meal in this distressful country. To tliii'ik id' eating three times everv dav
U-r such circumstances for three week.s yet— it is worse puiiishiiient than riding-ail
day in the sun. '['here are sixteen starving babies fioni one t
]iarty, and their Icijs are no larger than broom h indies, beft the fount
X years old in tl
(the Ibuntain took us at least two hours out
lookout perch, over ])amaseus, in time to ijet a
le
nil at 1 r. M.
to T'love oi!,
fiea.'
th.
tl
ot (uir way,) and reached Mahomet's
good long look before it was necessary
lat far away with fra/'mo
nts
strewed the
'";!
■'■'n: i!i:.\i-TiKi (. nry, .,-„
only one iiariidi.sc • j,.. Mv.f,MT.^,l +. 1 / , ' '"''" •■'■'""' ''"f''''
tLelulI to nuu.k tlu- .pot .l,;.. 1h/;^!;:i "" "•'""■' " '■'''-'^'' ""
forei-aei'.saccnstorao(ltoIu\aiT,i.i v,.,rM^- f iV ' ' -liiliti,! .s..., to
fo.the first time '"'"•' "''"' '^"' '' '^ 1''^^'"- '""-'^^ "l-u lua,
Hwav Mith fine i h^ .' s rtV^'' ' ?'"""t T "■'"' '""' ^''■•^^"'^'' ^•>-
its heart sits ^ I ! 4 ^ ^^.r^'ir"",? -•^■^" /'''i''^- ^ »>.,1 aestiin:, in
Sloanua^out ci^ a ^a ^/^ ;.;K'- ^^^l 'l^-'-^ -f l-avls an,l opals
far l..lov.- vou v/it disfn f' ,/^''\^ ^^^'^M-'ctun, you see spread
contrasts to hd-d .] *^^^^ '" T^^'^ '^ ^^'^l «'!" '^ ^'--^y i^ suon^
of our coari, d ^ dol 'ud IT "' '^Tf-^V^'V '* «'>'-tantial tenant
blasted, sand;, roI^-:,;„,:^^V^^
ridden over tx, -et la re v. ,', I '•: !7' "^f"i'inus country you lane
picture tl>at evil We^''!'^ '^ '"' ,1"^' '"''"^^*'''- '"-'^'^''1
^^ ^veck, ,^t]^:o::f''V,,^^'^''!*' -■''!> on Malunaet's hill aI,out
The R;p]a.t ^h; ;H.oa r '■ "VT'*?^'^""'''-^^''^--"-
<lown intl> the paracll^eW Ditaf'^"'" '^ ^^'"^" '"' ''"-'^•■' -^ ^ ' ^••
gathered up Ly di^.^^s Jlt^/ '^^'""'""^ •""^"" writers lane
was the Galden ofEden n d nM If ''p '"' **' '''?' *'"* '^ ''^l'^-
" two rivers" that wate ;d A- a^.'^ ^ i:: "^^r^"" T' ^'r'-'''' *''^'
paradise now and on^ Avn„ll ' ;'''"'^'"- '* may he so, but it is not
Hkeiytob^iiithi;; "^tt e;;;i;r^r"^^^^^^ '' -'"'^^""'^^ ■-
can not realize that le- i ^ fl • P™"i'e.l and dirty 1ha( one
The gardens Z htyen bv , "^.K:; ! '^^^ ^-'l^ ^Jl- ^^^ ''^"-1.,..
-ab think it bea^tll^'-dits^:^;^,;;--^^^^^^^^^
UTS
D.'.MA.SCIS THi: KTKiiXAl,.
VV e run nuhvays l.y our large cities in Aiiicricu ; in Syi'ia they ciwvc
the roads so as to make them run l.y the m. a-re little lanhUes they call
•• fountiuus, an.l Avluch are not foun.l oftener on a journey tlian 'every
our hours Cut the - riyers" of Pharpar and Al.ana of Scrij.ture
(mere creeks) . un through Damascus, and so every house and evei-y
garden have their sj.arkling fountiiins and rivulets of water With her
toi'e.st of foliage and her ahnmlanee of Ayater, Damascus must be a
u-ond.T of H-onders to the Bedouin from the deserts. Damascus is simply
^m oasis- that IS Ayhat it is. For four thousand' years its Avaters Iiave
not gone dry or its fertility failed. Nonv we can understand wliy the
city hns existed so long. It could not die. So long as its Avaters rcmiin
to It away out there m the midst of that howling desert, so Ion- will
Damascus live to Wess the sight .,f the tired and thirsty Ayayfarer."
"Though ol.l as liistovy itsclC, tliou i.vt livsl. as llui Invatli of .siniii-, l,]„oininr. n«
tlirEilLI." '■"'"' ''''""'"'" '"'''""' """ "'•■•'"K^^""«er, J)ami;.scus; I'eaW of
Damascus dates Imck anterior to the days of Al.raham, and is the
oldest city 111 the worhl. It was founded l.y Vy., tlie grandson of Noah
•• Ihe early liistory of Damascus is shrouded in the mists of a iioirv
T''}^^^ . ^^'"'■" ^''«""^"''^'« ^^^ittwi of in tlie first eleven chapters of
the Old le.stameut out, and no recorded e\-ent Ixas occurred in the world
Imt Damnscus was in existence to leceive the news of it. Uo Irick as
tar as you will into the xague past, there was always a Damascus In
thewntnigsof every century for more than four tliousand years its
name has been mentioned and its praisc^s sung. To Damascus, years' are
only moments, decades are only flitting trifles of time. She measui'es
time, not by days and months and years, but by the empires she lias
seen rise, an.l prosper and crumble to ruin. «he is a type of immortality,
hhe saw the foundations of Baalbec, and Thebes, and Ephesus laid • she
saw these yilhiges grow into mighty cities, and amaze the world 'with
their grandeur-Hind she has lived to see them de.solate, deserted and
given over to the owls and the bats. She saw the Tsraelitisli eniDire
exalted, and she saw it annihilated. She saw Greece rise, and flourish
two tliousand years, iuid die. In hv.v old age she saw Rome built, she
saw It overshadow the world with its power ; she saw it i.erish Tlie
tew hundreds of years of Genoese and Venetian might ,'nd siilendor
weie, to grave old Damascus, only a trifling scintillation hardly wortli
remeinbermg. Damascus has seen all that has ever occurred on earth
and still she lives. She has looked upon the dry bones of a thousand
empires, and will see the tombs of a tliou.sand more before she dies
IJiough another claims the name, old Damascus is by right the Eternal'
Lity.
We reached the city jates just at sundown. They do say that one can
get into any walled city of Syria after night, for bucksheesh, except
Damascus But Damascus, with its four thousand years of respectability
in the world, has many ohl fogy notions. Tlier^ »r<- no -^4-^ hrm-
there, and the law compels all who go abroad at night to carry lanterns'
•MUKNTAl, l.rxtir
279
■NSi;;:::",:!;fX";;;:t\;^^;;;,;;:::;:!;i;:7 ",..„,„.„,■„,„. 1
;oi> c;^;;;:^;.;::;: ;;.:;;;;:t:x;t;7^ ^^t 7^"- ^'- -•" • -
At last MO ..ot to w],ere I^to >; L ] '' ''H'.'l-v.all.s of llu- ...nlens.
Miere, and knew we wn^ l". ''' /T'^ ^''^*"'- "'"^"t h.n- a,ul
little ,.u...ow «t..oet, c.;;.w ,. ', ^'t;;^ ;'•; ^••"•'•7^ -^''^ -^y^ '^ .!
'"■"•••"tl. Arabs, w,. alioJited . K It ' ^ '"•'-"/"l/'^ ■•"h1 wit), a swaru, of
fn.„ trees a!.o„t u^ ;,,^ t;S'i,f If "^ oouH with Howors and
tlie waters of nninv imK-s We .. . ., '■'^"*'''' ^'"'t ^^''^ .vceivin-
tl>e two rooms was a tank\ f cle '■ ' •«';^""''''>;'-I«ved reeess between
^-'f " 'I'«en pipes/ >^otI^ " " Jr '"''" V""'''"^ '"t'> it IVo.n
•'••'•^•'onsastliis n,imior-unto<wJ ' ""*'""'^ """''1 ■^"">'<1 i'
'' -"ture. ,),„. ,.,0, "™ kn" ,^;? ""iT'l""":'^ ^" -'"uls of s,.oh
t .e,r floors clotJ.c<l witj. soft e^f^' f t-nnshed, and even l.ad
f '"",^' to see a carpet a-. ' fo^ """'•' '''^'''^- ^^ ^^-''^^ ■' I'l-asant
to.n).-Iike, Htone-plu-ed ? ors n d h " " '"'w'"'^ ''^'e-ier t],an th.
not know wla.t it is T , '»'''I-i';H)ins of Enropo and Asia 1 ,)<>
A v^Y l.voad, ^.ly eapi^iSn^ t,r^; ;:;ll*^"^ f ^ '^'^ ^^" ' t^-^
exten,Ied across one s (le of eac r o.n . ,*""''" "'' f"'"'t«''i f«'t Jon^r,
-tli .spring n.attrasses. xt.l te^e .V; 1 T'""'', ""■'" ^'""'« ''-f^
top tables. All this Inxn.'v was • s^f^^ /ooking-glasses and nmrbh-
"-t with an exhausting 1, -'Xvel ^ if '^ '" '"'^'""^ ""'^ ''^-'^"^ ^vorn
•K.t tell what to expecMn T, i H ' ,* T ""'^^I'"''^^'''- t^- one can
Mihabitauts. ' '''•^' "^'^ "^ ^'^•<'>' M' quarter of a ,Hi!ti,,u
<'-'d.S/;n;;:::?^.:;f:%*%.;-^ tank ..tween the roo.s tj
''-I '%'ed nn-baknZadi ;;;''"'""■*" -e, however, nntil I
-^ it then, and super fa tt b'^l " " t"' "' '""^ i'^'^'^' ' ^'"-^'^^
-asa.K,ntto go aLl explain 1 H^ij" ^^ ^ J-^^^'^V^' '^^
scented poodle dog frisked up and ni ed it c. U f'' 1^ ''""'^'^ '""*
and before I had time to think J 1 T! f of my leg nsfc then,
tank, and when T saw v ser nV • '-^ ^""^ *" *'"' ^"ttom of the
left the pnp t,.ing tZu.: :T.x:::t:::!^ 'i- ''^^■^'^■- ^ --^ ^«' -^
I'ovenge was all I needed to n.ake e m^w f!"^ ^'"''^^I'- ^^'^i^^:-'
•»to supper that first night in Da mCsTi. •'''';/" ''^"" ^ "'>''^"^
ay on those divaus a lon.r tin.e Ye • n ' '" '"' *-'™''ition. We
lon«-stennned chibouks, ami tXh //.!>;: 1?'' rt'f ""'"S''^''^"^ ""'I
;-' T knew what I had solnetint^t.;': f/^;:,''-^';^ "-'^ "' *^"^ ''='-
.'o get tn.ed out, because cue so e.yoyr:: .i^J^^^;; ^ ^ -''t" -'"'-
'•I
, M.-l, ;' ■
■i'J[';f'
'^'.A
280
lilOI.K.Iul'S i\Ti:|,l:ilA.\CK.
m
3i ll I <i
li . "M
Til ill,' r.ioniiu;;' uo scut fui' donkeys, (t is wurtiiv oMiotc ilmr' w-
lin.l l(. .vo,,/ f;,r tlicso thiii.;>. I wiid Jhmuisciis wis iiu ol-l fossil, an.l sli-.
IS. ^ .\uv v.Ihtc ,.!so Me would have l,etu n.sstiiled l.v a claniurous aniu
ot (.oi.kev-unvfi., -Hides, ;.eddkrs and l.e!.-ais— but in Dainastus tlieV
sol.at<'t]„.very si-],t of n foiei-u CJiristian tliat they want no inteieouvse
wli'itcver v.itli liuu ; only a yeai- or two ii^'o, lii.s per.soii was nut alwav-,
siite 111 l)ai,:ascus stm-ts. it is t)a' most fanatical MoliaiiMitcdan lairoa-
tniy out of Ar.ilna. Wli-iv you see on,; -iveii turha-.i of a Hadji
«!ls.<« her.' (the lionored si.n'ii th.-;t niy lord has luad;' lIu' piluTinia-v r
iMfr;..) I thuik yon will .see a (hi.veu in J)aniasciis. T!i.. J)aiii'ii,scenes -uv
tJie nu'liest, wickedest luokin.;.- villains we have .seen. All the veiled
M-ome!! we jiad seen yet, nearly, left their eyes e:<iK),xed. hut nunilKMs oi
tlu;;e m Daniaseus completely ]iid tlie face undov a eio.se-drawn i.iuek
veil (h:',t made the woman look li]:e a mummy. If ever avc caught an
eye (-xposed it was nuickly hidden from oiiv eontaininatin:.;- ('Inistiau
visu.n ; tliehe-i'v.ars actually [..as.sed us hv without demamiinv Imeksheesh ■
ti,'' merchants in tlie hazaars <lid iiot 'hold u}. their -cods' a, nd crv ou;
ea-erly, " Hey, John l"' or "Look tliis, Howajji .'' On tic eoiitVarv.
they ojdy scowled at us and said iiever a. word. '
^ Tlu> jiannw streets .swarmed like a liive witJi men and women in
sl,r:-,ii,;;e Oriental costumes, and our small donkevs knocked them ji^dit
;!nd left as we j.lowed throuiu:li them, nr-ed on by tlie merciless thjnkev
buys. Hicse [.ersecutors run after the animals," shoutiuiL'- and u'eadi-e
tliemlor Iiours t(v..vtlier ; they keep tlie dunk(;y in a o'aliop alwavs ve"
never -ct tired them.selves or fa.il behind. The donkeys fell down and
spilt us over tJieir heads occasionKy, but there was notliinu- for it l>ut to
mount and he.rry on a.yain. We wei-e ban,::;ed a<;ainst sharp corners,
loaded porters, camels, and citizens ,L;enerallv ; and' we were so taken up
witii looking out for collisions and casmilties tliat wo had no chance to
look aliont us at all. We rode half thvouuli tla^ citv and throu-h tiie
taiiious '^ stre<M which is called Straight" without Weing anv 'thing.
liardly. Our bones were nearly knocked out of joint, we were viild with
e.xcitement, and our sides aclied witli the jolthig we Iiad sulfered. 1 dr
not like riding in tlie Uaiuasciis street-cars.
'A'e wore on our way to tlie rei)uted houses of Judas and Ananias.
About eighteen or nineteen hundred years ago, Haul, a nati\e of Tai-sus.
was ])articular]y bitter agahist tlie new .sect called Ohristians, and he let*
J(^rusalem and started across the country on a furious crusade against
them. He went forth " breatJiing threatelniiys and slaughter against the
♦lisoiples of the Lord."
'• .\ii(I iis hi- .j.iurneyc.l, he i -mw u.mi' Daiaas^nis, aii'l siuMciiIv lli.-iv sliiar,! iinia,).'
;il)(iut liiiii a Ijulit ti'iiiii Jicnvi'ii :
" Ami li(- t,'ll f.) till' ciirtli i'.tnl lipavl a voirt" suviiii; imt'i liiin, ' .Sunl, Suul whv
IHTseciitcst tliou nil' .'' " ' ■
"And \\hnn he knew thiit it was .l.';sus iliui siioki! to hi;u Im- tivmhl.'d. mid wn .
;i.stoiiisJii'd, and .Slid, ' bold, wliut wilt tliou Iiiivc iiic to .'o V "
He was told to arise and go into tlie ancient citv .uid one would te
11
lote (Iijir w'-
's.sil. and sli:-
iiiuruiiH jiriiiv
uiiiiHCUs tlio;,
iiiteri'uuvsv
s nut iilv.iiy>
iK'dan j.iiiyii
of ii Jiiidji
il,UTiin!i.j;v r
inasccucs -iVf
1 tlit^ veiled
t iiuiulters lii
drawn iiiack
■(• caii.nlit all
);.'; V 'liiistiaii
Inick.slu'csii ;
iin<I try on;
iv contrai'v.
1 wuiueii in
I tlicni j'i;;lit
lews (lonk<.^\
lUid goadiui.,
' ahvays. ye'
II down and
fov it hut t')
^r]) eoi'uers.
so taken up
10 eliauee to
thiou^li til.'
any tliiiii;.
i-e v.ild witl;
I'eivd. 1 d.
nd Ainuiiiis.
e of Tarsns,
, and he let'*
^ade agaiiibt
■ a»uiist till-
il, Saul, why
)l('il. iiiid Wits
' would relj
IlOl'SK ()!■ .11 ||\>
TIIK ••STItK, . . AI.I.KO sTi;.
mil wliai to d(
In t
awe-slncken, for tliev iieaid
lie iiieaiitinie
lilh .soltliecs ^todd s)
iuil rose up and found that that 1
tlie nivsteri
ons \i
h
lei euie-
IIS snrht, and 1
liiii to 11
ree snjieinatura! li,;,'ht iiisd de^t
iiuascuh
'« was l.hnd, so "tlif-y led him l.v the ]
1.'^;
^ .Illli
iiian.
i':)>e
II
<■ was converted.
I'aul lay three days, hli,,,!. in the 1
he 11! ither atr nor draiil
loilse o
f Jiid;
;;iii
anil '.n-oi:
111 iirj' vhat
lere eaiiii
n.se
.!
>U'C tn a
eui;:eii of J;;ii
the h
'inse of dill!;
'X'> into the street v,I
iia.sia;
iiaiiied
Ai
l>rayeth.
one
dl
liich is called Straidi
ir.ii!.'
'.\';ir.
it. and iniiiiii
•■d Naiil, o
I ai'siis
Viiisnias did not widi to .yo at ilrst, for lie had I
iind he liad 1
tl
le i:'os[K
•i of
is donlits about that sort
or
d.
■eacH
ir
of a
street called Straight" (how 1
owever, in oljcdieiite t
I card oi
eliosen vesse
lid belore.
to )>n>(idi
did. 1
(
uccoiin
low hi' e\-er 1
e I'ver found his v,
o oruers, he v>ent inio tin
oiiiKl Jus v.'ay out of ii
ay into it. and after h
He i
from th
:rd for by (]„• faet that 1
oiiml
le was iictin;'
;igaiii, are niysteriis oiilv to he
■an)
f^traidit, he h
is old house we 1
d risLoied him. and or
under 1)
nine in;,i)
lion.)
lad liunted iii) in tiie svret
■d
•dallied hiiii a preacher: a.nd
lirosccuted till his death. It
III .started out on thac hidd ml
the ^Jaister for thirty piei
^\■a
iich was laiscalled
ioiiary career which he
•s not the house of the'disciid
to Jll
to.
who Mils a far ditlerent i-cntof
ces of silver. I make this explanati
v.jio sold
on in
^tiC,
very d life rent stvle of
is a pity we did not know i
lave given, in the aliovi
man, ai
id 1
man from the [)er.sonjust referred
iveu III a verv
II
more aoout him
;'oo(l house
It
peojile wJio will not read Bible liist
paragraphs, some i
lore iidbrniati
some .snch method as this.
tion will obstruct
II
iry until tin v are d.eiir.udeil
on til]'
lope that -..o friend of oro"
into it
sti
,,,, ^ „ - interfere with niv pecul
ihe street called Strai-lit is straio'htcu' tl
ress ;in
u eoiu.-i-
u,!j;lic as a i-ainbow. Wt. Lnk
does not say it is tl
te .street which
e IS c.-iretiil mit ti
lar mission.
ian a corh.;crcv,-. bm not a.-
cnl//',/ Straight." It is a I
remark in the Bible, f I
's straight, lau th
..f
o commit himself; 1;
street wliicli is
icheve.
lie ])iete of irony ; ii i,s the onlv f:
^^
cetioiis
;i good way, and then turned off an«!
vti'.scd the .street called Sirai-dit
A
llamas.
Tl;
tl
ere is sniail
called at tl
lere still ; it is
masonry
til
Ai
th
an oiil looia twelve
'incslion that a part of vl
le reputed house of
le original hoii.se i,s
evident I V
iK'ient
If A
na
lie, .somebody eke did, which is jnst
nanias' well, and .singularly enough,
le well had been dug vesterdav.
iilteen feet under growiid, and it
ni.is did not live there hi St. Paul
■II.
as ^v^
Ih' water w
I took a drink out of
!s just as fresh as if
the d
We went out toM-ard" tl
ibcijdeH let Paul dow
le north end of t!ie citv to
over the Dama.sc
the nl
placf v.nere
for he preached Christ so fearlessh- in I)
to kill him, ju.st as tl
iis wail at dead of niijht-
ley would to-dav for tl
imascus that the [leople somdit
;ame
to escape and dee to Jeni.salen..
Then we called at the tomb of Mahomet's childr
:>fl
oneii-
iid he !iad
■eu
at
tomb
'! A
'I
•><•»
A i MtMVAI. OK 111,01 )|)--,NA \mAN'm ItOl/NK.
Irl'
; . on <> lu, hollow , .n, nn,!.... rook when- Paul hi.l .lunM^ is il^h^
-.r. stuns who wr. ,nMs,sac...l iu Damascus in 1S,;1 !„• th,' TuZ
I l'".v s. y thos,. narrow stivets vnn l.loo.l for sov-ral ,Ia vs ai ,1 at n, n
'"•"lv.Is all th.ou.^h t la, Christian .,uart.r; thoy say fu.lhn- th' tl^
h ,nh.l.. ,lo^s Th.. thirst for hlood,.xt.n,l,.l to thehi./hlau.'ls ^Tf
Ifonnon n.ul Ant.-L,.lMnou, an.l in a short time twontv-Hvo thousan
no.. ( .nst..ns w..,. UK.ssan..Hl an.I ,h,.i,. possessions laid M^^t Zw
H h|M<.a(,W,au ,n Dan.aseus ! --an.l pretty nnu..]. .11 over Turkey om
?hr!!,ai;^"' ''''' ""■ ^^"' ''^'^' *^"' '^ ^^•''™ '^■-■^' ""- '"'•• ^--I-
to ^!at'"f(5\^''''^'r'''-" '''r'^^"(^l-"l -"1 IVano. for .nterposing
to sa^(, tiK, ton.Mn Ivapnv fVon. the destruction it has so richlv
<l.«orye,l tor a thousand y.ars. It hurts a.y vanity to see th. , , a^
refuse to eat of tbo.l that has l.een cooked ibr ns ; 'or t.' .t^ Vo ,.^ d h
we have o.,ten fu.n ; or to drink fron, a ^oatskin which wo JZm^
^Sh'th> '"f" '■':;' '"'■'^^' ''>' '^^^"'"" *'"■ -nterthroni r":
d mJ V "'''■ *'V"' "^^ '^' it' "'• ti"'""gli a sponge : ^ ncyei^
d^hked a ( hn.aniau as I do r. ,: Mi.^raded Turk'an.l Arabs and wh™
K^u^.a,s ready to war with i.,.. .,.ain, I hope England and F ce wi
noUu d It good I.re.Hl>ngor go,.) .judgment to interfere
In iWscus they thmk the:e are no such rivers in all the world ;u.
t at w V -V'^\"\:""' l^''-!-'- 'H'B I)Hnu>scenes have always thought
em "'v,;,^. ,f '' r ^y •'»-; /''''M'tor v., Naan.an boasts extravagantly abSut
tiien^ 1 iMt was thre,> thousand years ago. He says : " Are not Albun
and Pliarpar, nvers of Damascus, better than alHh« waterJ^^ t'ic *
Ma^ I not wash m them and be clean l" But so:ue of my readers ave
h?C;n^imi^""r -'M<-^"^-. N— ^ -as tlHAonunamW:^
II V • Tr • ^'' "■■■'•' ^^'^ iavorite of the king and lived in ..reit
<"nuugh the house they point out to you now as his, has been tun ed
m o H lepea- hospital, an.l the inn.ates expose their hon- d dio^^m^ e "^^^^^
lioh up then-hands and beg for buckslaish when a stranger ^
in d itTdns 1;?'"'" ' v''" ^'^r' ^^ *^"« ^'^-'-« ""til 1^ looks upon it
Si listen out of 'll"' ^'^'""^"\''"-"^"t dwelling in Damascus. Bones
Ul tuisted out of .shape,, great knots j.rotruding from face and body
jonits decaying and dropping a way-d.urrible I ^ '
i;i7
CHAPTEK XLV.
•■l'".>eo an.l , l^.o/i ov us^ o it ^''"'"'^/''-''^'.'^ »"<> therefore J.ul «
'•ocreation, ln,t it was t !„.; h ! ^ . ^' "Z^' '^'''\ ?^ "''^^ ^''^»«'^>-°"«
of Huusv fron, Mount H .' .t'-ivehn;. ,u Syria, f J.a.l pleMity
there u-as u hi -X int. H ' ' ""l' '" " '™"''' ""* '^^''^ '^" >'^^' ^tu-nach,
t- more. T e^d i^ f w "li' ''i;'"^ ''~"*''^'" ^^''^^ "^-'^^-h room
pipe; thevvvs ..1/41,'* "'-e that stream out before a Mow-
heacl,Avh.n ' vache.l u? fj tel! wh.-a each lloo.l ntruck niy
with chirk gree They wel V;"^-' "'' 7 "'^" '""'•^'^''''^•'^ ^'^^^^^>' l»'«l
that I had one uo Itwi^^W ",?"''"'^^«« '''«««"'«• ^ thanked fortune
and was t.u miles 'alea f? V* '""' ^"'^'''^ ^'I* "'*'' *'»' '^'-"^W
with adviceuili t^l.a^i^:tt^ ^ij'^::;''- "'"r^""^^ ""'"^ ^•-
It was on tWs aeeount tlmt I got one ^ ^'''' '' ""* "^ "'"'"•''^"'^•
'-uS^sJ'i^rL; u;:t;;'or'^r ." '""^""7 -'^ --'-^ ^^''- ^'«
au umbrella, or any thin " to ;hade it ^^"^""•7^ '".'"^ '' ^'^^ f'^^' ™' "«««
looks comfo;tableL;,^^^^^^ %tr' '"n^f' •","^1" '^'"'»>^«
I haye eyer seen, our lUy of e ll Us't,./ 1"* f ^ '« vuliculous sights
outlandish fi-aire Tl.ev %,.., v! ^ ^, ^ ''^^' ^^" ^"' «"ch an
white rag of CWst-tnthfont \ ""^ ' ^'' ^ .^^^'^^ '^^' ''^'''' *'^« «"Jless
down their Wk:tSt"a?tV?'^:f:"^^ ^ "'f ''^*'^ ""^^ ''-«^i»«
o them: they all hoiX .hi:r;n;i;:^£^^;;.rt^ ?\:^ ^^'^-«^--
o them: they all hold .hiir^SCSn^t^rg:;.^ ^:::?
•■I'ltte,
jit
':.N
their
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
1.0
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11.25
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Sdences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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L>MI
I'AMASIli l'l!(t, rsslDX- ( lltlols I \( ()\(;|<C ||V.
if
* I
J
Si
lifiids : withdui ^xctiilidii theii^ stii-viins niv too short tln-v iiiv rj;,. \,.rv
worst .ifan;,' of liory.-i.i.-n on .Mrt' : tlieir iininmls to :. ],ors(- trot tVunuii'v
himl-;ui(l Avh'.n tlu'v yrt strmii,^ out one jift.'r iiiiotlicr . -l.'^i'inn' sn-.-u.^I,'.
ahfiid aud biv:itlilc.>s ; l.oniu'iii-' lii-li and o;it of (inn. allaloniAlu' lim- •
kiKH'S veil lip an-i stifl". dhows llappin,!,' like a r.)ost''r's that js -.'oin- to
crow, aii.l the low^ i\]v ,,f innhrcllas popjun- fo-ivulsivcly iq. a.iid down
wlicn one h;-cs tJiis outrageous j.ictuiv cxpoNrd to tlic- I'iirlit ..f dav. lie i\
smiiizrd that ilu> p,,ls don't -vt out tlu'ir thundi-r)..>lts and dcslroV thc-
ofl the face of ttf oartJi ! i do 1 wonder at it I
wonliln t
n
ft anv
snn drops hclow t]ie liorizon and rhi' hoy.. cIom- their
it is onlv a xariation of tlie
Kucli ca.raA an go tin-on.^h a eountrv of niiiu
Am! when tl
iiniLrel!as ;.i\d pnf iheni under their arms,
pieture, not a nutdilieation of its al>i;r.rdity.
J5r,t may l.e yor. can not see the wihl "I'xlra.va'.-an.'e cS u>\ i.anuraina
\on could if yon v.tse here. I {(■-(•, vuu feel all the ti)ne \v-<[ as ifvor
were living about tiie year IJOO h.eforc Christ or \r.u-k to the Patrir.reh^
—or forward to th- New Era. The seenerv (.f the iJiLh- is al.out vou
the custonis of tlie patriarelis aiv around you tlie sa.iue jieopl,., in th"
saiue lh)wiiio; r(,),es, and in ,^iin(hds, cross y(au' patli- tlio saiue huii;
trains of stat(dy eaniels yu and cunie--the' same impressive reli"-ious
soh'mmty and silence ivst upon the desert and tlie mountains thai'v.ere
upon th(>in in the remote a;;es of aiiti(iuitv, and l.eliohl, intrudiie- upon
a scene like this, comes tlii;; fantastic m'ol. of i^rceu-sprctaeied Va.uk:-
with their ilappin;.- ell.ow^ and bobl-in-- umluvllas ' "
Jt is 'Uaiiiel m
lis arm, all ovt-r
the lion's den witii a yreen cotton umhrella umlei
again.
.Al.y unil.vella is u-itli the ha-va-e, .-.nd so are mv -reen spectacles
and there they shadl stay. I will nut use tiiem. I will show some respect
for the eternal fitness of thin-s. It AviU he bad enon;,di to trot sun-struc!c
without lookinnr ridiculous into the bar-.dn. ff F fall, let lae fall beariie>
about me tlio send.jliiuee of a ( 'hristian, at lea.st.
Tliree oi- four hours or.t from Damascus v,c passed th" spot v.Iumc Saul
was so abruptly converted, and from this place we luokeillMck over the
scorclnng di-sei-t, and liad our last ylimps,- of beantifnl Damaseus. decked
in Its robes of shinino- green. Afti-r nightfall we reached our tents, just
outside of the nasty Arab village of Jonesboroiigh. Of cian'se the real
name of the place is El something or other, but the bovs still refus- to
recognize tlu,' Ai-ab names or trv to pronounce them. \Vhcn 1 say that
that village is <,f the usual style, I ineau to iiisiiniate that all Syrian
villages within fifty miles of D.amasciis are alike—so much alike tlmt it
would re(juire more than human intelligence to tell wherein one differed
from another. A Syrian village is a hive of huts one storv hi.gli (the
height of 11 man), and as sipiare as u d;y-goods box ; it is ini'id-piastered
all o^er, flat roof and all, aial generally whitewa.shed aftei- a lasJiion.
The .same roof often extends over half the town. ct)veriiig manv of tla-
stnris, wliich are generally about a yard m ide. \\'heu vmi ride'tlirouuh
one of the.se villages ar noonday, you first meet a mehnicholv do^, tlait
iriiitioii of tlic
i.liAS K d:
l')()i-;^ I'.;) Ill you aii(i silcutlv
iluc.s Hut diU-r to };cr (,iit of tl
tli.il
I mi;' 111.
you won I lu.'i
2S5
If way : next voii meet
out any rlotiu'soii, ami lu; liolds (a-.t liis Jia'u.I and
-h.' don't rfaily<..vi„.ct a (•cut. Iiu( tli.;i I..,. Icaincd
0\ (•!■
••I \MUil
J!
lili!
witli-
'a\H
!U-KS
!■(•. sli
K'ai'iicd to say iiior'aT. and lu.w ]
ic cai
meet a w
no
],
olllli'.l Wltll
I Iliac
cxiio.scd
innlli
\cil drawn
to Say tiiat Ixfore In
iiiiscif(if it ; next V
o\cr
\ou conn- t
'Inn m ai! ista,-. s 'if mutilation and
'IS, vcia! soi'.-cy,.,i ^.i,i|,[
U'i all fi-
iiavlct! and t'.v
iiincM Wit,
■if,>d
like
to :
i'oad tciulin
Ti
I liltiiy ra'.js
■Tilj'C
ami sitt!!i'.'- 1
is a jKi.ii- ('.■\ ii mJ.
on
her
iv;i and cliil-
nimlilv in tln-dnst
•inc.
arc a
!I th
111'-'! ol the )io|ia!ation ar,
.1
ariM.-
I"
' aslccj) within den
ic^s are
voii i'.iv
li's, or
i»,iit ... „.,„„:t;::;;;;;:; ;? i; ;:";':;;';:;. ,;;: '"'7'"r- ■■■'". -'""-' ■»
si^ht ill tJi" woi'ld. and its
it.
siiiT.i:;ndi!i;.;-.i
ai'
iiiiicnt
ly lu kcc|iin;( w
ith
I woidd not ]ia\t' i;oiic int') this di-s ■ir-.i;,.i, ,,, • •
for iW lact that I^imro'i. the ' ■' v n , :rs':'i;T" I '""-"^ '"''
is liuricd in Jone.lKirough, and i ^isl^cd c i ! . TC TT^''^
he is located. J.ike Ilomcv, he is .aid t / • 1 ',"""* ^'"'''
^.ut this is the only tnie ami ..nd^r;!;;:,:';.;:':;:;;;:;;:^;^ """■■'"'"'^^'
\vhen th- orij,Mnal tnhes were disnersed ni.ire fl ,„ e .i
power to finish it. Jfo ran it ui i d ': n S f •"" " ""' i'' ^''^
of them still stand, at this dav - k col s:' f ^ 1 • k:,;;!,:"; "f , ^^^'^^
the centre by eartl.,„akes. ami scaivl and v tr (h. I t r' ^'^ ''"'"'
»" an^iy (^o.l. Bui the vast ruin will "i 1 r ' V 'fT'"''^;'
puny labors of th-^s. modc.-n ;,enc>.ati,.ns of u'n uilZ '^T
i..ont« .re tenanted hy owls ami li'.ns, and 'dd X Ln' Mi S^,- ?';''T
th. wretd. village, lar ft-om the scene of his .n^Hlt!:;,; .f ^•^"' *"
\\j> left Jono.sl>orough very early in the morninu. and rode forever
ami forever and forever, it seemed to m- over narche,! J,/ , '
lulls, hungn-, and with no water to .hink l\^ i,, "if ^ ""Vj'^^
.Iry in a little while. At noon we halted 1 efo vt im wr/' .i f '" f <>"«
of El Yuha Dan,, perched on the side <if u i : n' ^V'"'' *"""
S.U.1 if: we applied there for water we wo; Id "; ^l ! :'';i:;'^;"7
nbe, for they did not love Christians. We ha.l to t rn Vt 'f
hours later we reached the foot of a tall isolated no" i/ 'h;. **
e.-owued by the cnnnaWing castle of Banias, the statelie^^ i ' t^^^^ h^?
...u,-. The passive towers Ini; ^L^r .I^ n:!;: S S^l^^
^a,: ;|:
■;M
386
A STATELY RflX— KNTERIXf; If../.v
LAM).
oasthi was <,'aiTisoiiO( . v,V wandpi-P.l ft,.- +!„.<,„ i .^t -'i.^ mat tin-
by an «„tl„|,mk,, „„,1 oouU „„t „n,ler«t,„„l wl,,,, '..c no , , '
b , ,Mj. „n.l ove,,l.,.l„,v „„. g,.„v ,,„t,|on,„„» ,vi,I, „ wil.l i;^!:S:nJ^
From these old towers we. looked do«-n imon a broul f.n.,v.,nl-
oxtrcn,,. foot, ,„„,,,UI,o .i* v„llo,-,'v. ellem ^1,U i ."'^ .i,! !
The very first tinngone feels like doing ^vheu he ..'ets into c„u„ .,11
burning up and dustv, it to liunt u.. a bitl W» f . i i . ' ' '
where it giishes out of the mou ta / s de thr<^ W mf v T ?"""i^
tents, and took a bath that was so icv tl • 1 f I ii i ' 't- ^"■"" \''^'
main source of tlu- sacred river, I .Si.m' expert W l:Z^':iT ^I?
was bathing at noonday in the chilly source of thyiw^' River of
Damascus," that gave me the cholera • so Dr B s. 1 TT •.
orally does give me the cholera to take a itllh """' '' ''^'''-
The incorrigible pilgrims have come in with their „oekets f„ll nf
specimens broken from the ruins T «-,Mi +i ; """ 1 ?^'^^ "^.^ tail ot
stopped. They broke ort-fraI.nei^ft,LCh% tomb'- ff^i' ''"'''• -^^
Bculptures of the temples cff bJ!:!:^ f^^ ]^t:^':^''jT''''1
Ananias, in Damascus: from the ton.b of :^Za [i^t:!::^
1'1'okou tni-
ook woikUt-
kiiows who
t'C'lit ill oilr
rucks to the
rocks to tlip
irs tlmt tlic
,' tllC ci)!Ull-
' tlic iiiiiilrd
iciiin lieroes
fii'ctt'd cvou
h-.u] lujulc
ill tlien oui'
in tlio vast
ts liiul liiir-
JXircoptihle
ire (lestnic-
< to sconi !
vliero, and
uriaucp of
ir-reacliiii<;-
lie souj-eos
r SD mucli
Juoiiiitain,
t stepping
11(1 at its
pxecraijle
ipiir a tor-
lomegi-an-
village, it
camp, all
stream to
from the
« Avas tlie
•f it. It
Piiver of
r, it gen-
s fall of
:"oiild be
exquisite
ulas aii(]
Mightv
mi!Tir-pi,A(.: 'Af ( m,-,,, „ or uomi:.
Hunt
i;: ^rjii'tj;- ^;^,*ri;;- -r^V'' •■" '7' '^^
Jerusalem I ' ''* ^''" '^^T>'li-I'reAvJ,en tin. tiil.e invades
The niins here are not veivinteivstiie' Tl,..n , ,i
oi a great s.^uare hailding that was u «: the .,M tl' """"^" '''^^"^
pondei'ous old arelies thnt •.■■,. .,. .. \i i • ,"V '' ' = *''^''''-' •'"'" ""UiV
project ahovo the ton i en^ wth d.I.n.s tl.at tl.ey l.arely
the en-stal hrc.ok of" I. I ^ ' J'^T-n'"' "'""'■^ ^'"•""^'' ->"''•''
the s, ],strueHons of , ' , , '"''" f*'' ''""•^ = '" tl"" J'iH-iW." an-
l.ere-,Mtche ?^i',,:.,r^i ::":'• ''^'''I'''^.*-^ ""-l the (J.^at huilt
Here— patches of its handsome mosaic ti
'one I
wliei
•"■' -™ i-.- ■*;:r^™n;..;;:z:;;,"xs ^r:;,;^^:r " " •
u«viTiy„.l,.», (I,,. ,,,.'„,' '^'""'""su..! y.-,m„(;„. TI,o ,.],,,. „,,»
lilniKl »l«„l .I,,.,, I,e «„i,l trl P..t", ! ■"''"'■■■ '"'• '" ""»l'l"»
-!«««,,. ,i,„„,,i,„ui,„.„,,,j;,,,:l;;;t;;;:;::!,;'|;,",;;:;|;;;;;^--^ v,,.,,,,;
vf. ' II .• "'"i'"''^"", }(:i that 1 am sithii'.- wIh-c -i ,-,11.,
htouM, and lo'ikiiHf n,„„, +i,„ i i. ■, ., '--'^^-^ "'"•'' a god has
Hi
looked
■king npuu the bi'ook
upon, and am suiToimded hv dusk
le uionntams Avliich that "od
1 III
j*'^*
'.>**
!*-.
M
:ymeii an<l won
leu wlio saw Jiim,
'**,!•
.Hi'&^^l
I'S.v
l'K( ! I.IAIilT!i;S-. MKAMXfi T|||: sl( K.
tik'
!,' ■'.!
p.l .'n M taiknl with l,i>a. n„-<. to f^u.., nu.l ......d..ssly, just as thoy .m.ld
l.av,. ,lono w,th .ny otluT sfranu^... I can not ,:,;n,i.,x.h..n.l this; tl."
very
.■^"■' ' > ■"' 'o'l i:iMiijm;ii(;il(J THIS
'Ini;^- liavu l)e(Mi always liidilcn in rh^uds an,l
,!,'o(1h of my uiidcrst mdin
faraway.
This niorninv. .lurin- Im-ahnist, tli- uaial ass-Mnl.lasre of snnlid
n.n.anuy sat ,.atn.nt]y withont tho .harnu-d circk- of th. camp an.I w, i^ !
for s,Hd. cnnnhs as p,ty nught hcstow upon their inisorv. Tiu-rc wnv
^t.ilva.t (for ono liar.lly scvs any wIm-o snch splondiddookin-nu-n as
I-.V ,n the l.:ast.) hnt all the .o.n.n and ..hiidr<.n h.okcd wornTu a"
>.nd distressed w,lh hun.^er. They rennn.h^.l n.e nn.eh of Indians li I
Wpeoph. TI,eyhad L„t Jittle dothi,,:^, hut sncli as thev h I v
hmc.tnl in character and fantastic in its arrangen.ent. Anv little alisnrd
?;nvg,nv < r gnncrack they had tin-y dispos^nl in such a way as to n.akei
attract attention n.ost readily. Tluy ,s:.t in silence, an.f with tireles
patience watcju'd o„r ..very .notion with that ^ ile, nnco.nplainin'M.ano-
htoness winch IS .so tru y Indian, an.I which makes a Ihit., mm'u
XloTrik' '""■'^'"^'^^■''^^'^ '"^^1 «^^^'^S<' that he M-ants to ..xt:.rmiuate the
Thes(| p..opleahout ns had other pec,diariti..s, which I hav<- noticed in
the no. lere.l man, too; they wen, infeste.l with vermin, ami the dirt
liad caked on thoin till it ainounted to hark.
The little chil.lren wer.- in a pitialile condition— thev all hid
eyes, and were otherwise afHicted in Aaia.)us wa\-s The\
hanlly a nativ.; child in all the East is free irom .^ore eves'
tliousands of th.'m go hliml of on.- eye or l.oth evei'v v.^ar: I think this
.nusthe.so, f..r I see plenty of hlin.l pe.>plo everv\lav. and I .lo m t
remember .seeing any children that ha.ln't sore eves. And, would von
«nppo.se that an Amoricr.n mother could sit for an hour, with her ..f.ihl
ni herarms amlletahundr.«liiie.s ro(«t up.m its cn-es all that time.
niuhsturbed ! I «.■.> that every day. It makes' mv flesh creep
Yesterday we met a woman ri.ling on a little jackass, and she had a
little child m hcv arms ; hon.>stly, I thought the chil.l liad gog-des on as
M-e app^adie. . Aiul L wondered how its mother could alibnfso mud'
style, but wh.'n we (hxnv near, we saw that the go.nrl..,s ^^ere nothin-r
Init a caini. meeting of flies assemliled around eaeliTrf the child's eves"
and at the same time there was a .letachment prospecting its nose The'
iillerflrr ''' '"'''"'^ '''"' '■""^''"*"''' '^'"^ ^" ^''^ '"^t'^ei- ^lul not
A,ssoonas the tribe found out that M-e had a .loctor in our party,
ley began to ilock in from all cpiarters. l)v. B., iu the chirity of liis
i.ature, liad taken a child from a woman who sat near bv, and put some
sort o -.x wash upon its diseased eyes. That woman went oft' and starte<l
the whole nation and it was a sight to see them swarm ! The lame, the
hault, the bhnd, the lej>rous-alI the distempers that are bred of iudoleuce
. ir , and iniquitj--were represented in the Congre.ss in ten minutes, and
still th.^ycatne: Every woman that had a sick baby brought it a on-
.say
and
sor.!
that
that
HEAL.N,; T„. SM K -THK VHISVK.,,
and evoiy worn 11. that Imd.i't. I.
worsliij.in^tr looks tlifn- L.^it
28D
>'''-n\v(.,l „i„'. Wimt
i-ev('i-';:it a
movement; tlu-ir ,'vo.s wero ■h,.fr. '. ^^ ^"'^' ""* ^'''^ sii-'htest
Whon each individual <,,,, hi .^t J ;.. n "f ' ^^^ " '''^"' ^^'^'- '» '^'"'
with joy-,.otvvith,slan,lln.^ , . '. ' f "oJu-ine l:,s eves Mere m.l'Lnt
»o nng ou earth oouM prevent the > i' t . """'"'r.'"""".^ '■''ith that
C'ln-Kst knew how to preach to /;''''''-'""'"- ^^'•''1 "^u".
tortnred c-eatures : Jli helu,e h- "'V,i;'::' -'";''^^;t''>"s. disease-
In.man doctor this n.urnin.r when the f.: !■ •^' ^'T'''^'' *'* '""• P"'»'
thosiekehihlwontabn.^- X a "1',"^"^ ^'T! '-*^" <'-' ' to
then- eyes wJdle they did u..t kn v^,. • ^w e'h ^7"'"'"''''''^'' '"'"^ ^^''^J'
s.m,des or not. Tho ancosL.nsof thes^ - ' , eo ,t T^''" • ^J^'' p, " 'r ^■'''"" '" ''^^
dress, ,nanners.onstonis,shn,.lieiti1 ''*'"•'*■="''>■ ^''^" i''^'"' incoh,,,,-
andwheirthevsawllir; k^S.^^H r^'^
wonden; they worshipped S;t No w^l . S"' V^T' " -'•'''"--
the nation. Xo ^vonlhn- tlie nndtHude h f , '^'f'^'^'^' the talk of
that at one ti,ne--thirtv miles fm'„ *'''^^,/""'7*''l ''un N\ere .so .r^eat
<lo.-n thro.^h the roof ^;tt;-:;^^^ to h. a siek"nan
no^vonderHisandiencesweresocSTrT^^'^^ •''T'<\to the door;
from a ship renu.ved a little di.^"," e V.* ,, ti T " ^"'^ ''' I"-^'='^'^'
e^nmthe .lesert places about IJetlm . I 'r = '"^ ^^"'^"^'^"'- tl'ut
solitude, and Ke had to feed them v ^ thons....,.! invaded His
fVn- ihei. conmUn. faith a, d " ^, r;!''" ?' •''^'i ^-" them sutfe;
grea commotion in a citv in tlo e -4 ^'■""'.l">'/^l'en then- was a
^'p- iu .o.ds tothiseih.; '^'^'£-'.-^tZ -^'Se/i ^^
vS;;:JiSz;'^';t':;;;^.;!;:^r!""-' i^r^^-^ '^ lou. asiJ
Among his patients was the chi d' f 'S sS ,F ^^ ^ V ''''^''^" ^'''« ^''^V.
poor, ragged handftd of sores a^d shV Ins U t'"';' ^"' ^'-^"h this
;n..nnny that looked as if he w , t^ j , 'V^"' "^""^^ -" P-r old
than in the Chief Magi.stnKT c.f tli.sri.f 1- ]"'''■ ',"• ", l'"^"-''-"-
The pnncess-I mean the Sldek's , 'ui d ^ , w ^ T' "^l''^^"'' ^"^■'^^^«-
teen years old, and had a verv wee f : y' ""'^' *''»-t«"n or f;;ui-
the only Syrian fennde we hav^ seen vet • " "" '"''"•^' "'^«- '^''« ^-'^
that she couhln't smile after ten oVl ek S,;'"- ''''''"•":'* ''' ^^'"f""^" "^'Iv
he Sabbath. Her chihl w^J' a'^W, ^^"':!!;:i^: '^^^^''^ ?^^-'t ...Vakh..
enough of it to make
Ulj
oh
^giy
si'eennen, though— tl
pie, and the j.oor little thing looked
r , .' "I'" ""IS' ■«•»■■ it (a» if it I,.„l
a™r,r;;nr'' """ "■" "™ «'•■'' -"
an idea that
'I <.'i.i:un;issi
lere wasn't
I)lead-
iiow was its
J^iit tl
is last new horse I have .^ot
on wJiK'h wasgeji
nine
1!J
IS trvim.' to 1
>rea
k h
is neck over the
Nil
' A
•2W)
A M>ltl.i: ItriN MOKK SKNTlMKXTAt, HOSH,
t.fiut-i\»]).'s, i(ii(l 1 hhiill liii\f t) ;,'.) out iiiiii aiijlior liini. .Jt-riclio ivml 1
have |i(irtf'(l (oiinmny. Tlic new liorso is not nmcli to lioiist of, J think.
( hie of liis liiiid le^^H hciids tlic wroiij,' way. and tli(> titln-r oiu is m straight
and stiff as a ttnitpoh'. Most of his tt^eth inv >,'ont'. and lie is as blind
as a hat. His nose lias been broken at some time or other, and is arched
like a culvert now. His \ind(>r lip haii'rs down like a .amel's. and his
eai-s are chopped off .'lose to his head. I had some trouble at first to
Hnd a name for him, but I finally concluded to call him IJaalbec. because
he is such a ma,t,qiificent ruin. 1 can not keep from talkin-,' al)out my
]iors( s, because [ have a very long and tedious journey before me. and
they naturally occupy my thou;,'hts about as much as "matters of appar-
ently "greater importance.
We satisfied our pilj^rims by luakinj,' those hard rides fr.jm liaalbec to
Damascus, but Dan's hoise and Jack's wei-e so o-ippled Ave had to leave
them behind and ;,'et fresh animals for them, 'riie dragoman says Jack's
horse died, i swapped horses with Mahommed. the kingfy-looking
Kgyptian who is (air Ferguson's lieutenant. \',\ Ferguson I'nieau our
dragoman Abraham, of course. \ diil not take' this horse on account of
his personal ap]ieai~ance. but Itecause I liave not seen his back. 1 do not
wish to see it. I have seen the backs of all tin- other horses, and found
most of them covei'ed with dreadfid saddle-boils which I know have not
been washed or doi-toi-ed for years. The idea of riding all day h)ng over
Hucii ghastly iiiijuisitiuus of torture is siekening. My horsv must Ini
like the others, but I have at least the consolatioii of not knowing it to
be so. ""''
I hope that in future T may be spared any more sentimental jjraises of
the Arab's idolatry of his horse. Fn boyho'od I longed to lit^ an Arab of
the desert and have a beantiful mare, and call her Selim or iJenjamin or
Mohaunned, and feed her with my own hands, and let her come" into the
tent, and teach her to caress me and look fondly u]>on me with her "rent
tender eyes ; and J. -wished that a stranger might come at such alinm
and offer me a liundrcd thousand dollars foi- hei-, so that T could do like
the other Aral)s- -hesitate, yeai'u for the moiu\v. but overcomes bv mv
love for my mare, at last say, "Part with thee, my beautiful one! Never
with my life '. Away, tempter, I scorn thy gold 1" and then bound into
the saddle and sj)eed over the desert like the wind :
Hut I recall those aspirations. If these Arabs l)e like the otliei- Arabs,
their love for their beautiful mares is a fraud. 'Pliest! of my acquaintance
have no love for their hoi-ses, no sentiment of jiity for "them, and no
knowledge of how to treat them or care for them. "The Syrian saddle-
blanket is a quilted inattrass tv»-o or tliree inches thick. It is nevei-
removed from the horse, day or night, k gets full of dirt and hair, and
becomes soaked with sweat. It is bound to bi-eed sores. These pirates
never think of washing a horse's back. They do not shelter the horses
in the tents, either; they must stay out and take the we.ither as it comes.
Look at poor crojjped and dilapidated " Baalbec." and weep for flic
•sentiment that has been wasted up(ai the Selims of romance !
(■ H A P T K It X L V I .
From a little n,u„n,l L ■ 1 1^; . f 1 1 '^'^^^"- '^''^^^''^ '- ^- i)^'"-
water mul forms u sl,.IIov ku ^^^ ^ ^'''^^-trenm ui^ Vnn^.Ul
•rordan. Its hanks •,. ,1 ih.l T ', "" ^"'I'^'-tHnt soun-o of the
M"-ow a w.ll-l,.l,n;ed ma i ','"''''•' "^ *'"' ^I""' ^^i" "^t
travel .ould lead ortos;.;;"; '""''"'''"• "^ ^''^ '"■-''- ^-o'^s cf
"I'onany .lifferent soi't ./earth ! tl r '\. 1 ' , ''' 'V''^^ "*^""'"'S
••"Hi yet see hnv the historic h„, i ''^''''•>''^ '"^^» "^«'J to,
aii.ha,i-J/,ke Huleh fl. '"^f" already t„ elust(>r ! Dan-
'nicy.-ereanins;!htw"J?;r' V^^ '" ^^"^ ^=^' "^ ^-^lee.
township of Bashan v,vs^^^ i^ki ;; " f "* *^V ''"'^^•- ^^'^ i'">-
'mils and its o iks I - ke h ,1 r,'"" VT', .^'"'°"" "^ Scripture for its
iJanwas the nlin.orn tl^ei'h^M tf '' ti' 'T^^''" !>f Mcron."
1-nce the expression '' ft'c^/ a t B. ". " ''^'l/"''^ '^^ B^lesti.e-
I'hrases " Elaine to Texas"- " f,.,.-,, 1 ,}■ \ , '^ ^''i'^^'^l'^nt to („.r
expression and that <.f t IsraeHt; ) t l'"''" . " '^•■"' ^'^"^^^^^o." Our
With their .slow camels .r™ thesanie.-.great distauc«.
from Dan to B^ershXl^ v '1 nnn, S''"' , '! l!^"* '' ''''''' 'J'^^'^' Jo^niey
the entire 1 a^^h of ttir com" tl^ n i "''' ^'^'^' '" '''''y "^'^'^^-i^' ^v.ls
^eat pr.,,araSon Id nmr^Sum v "w/" ' ^i '" "^^-^-ke- -^thout
'' a far country," it is not 1 ikelt t t V f " *^" ^ ™^l'^'^^' traveled to
miles. Palestine is only f o m^ f r t ;*' "''V ""•',"' *'^^J'' "'«''*>' "^^ "i-'-^ty
Missouri could he spl ^- ^'^jf .^^^ *^;, i"^*-^' ''"'^V' ^^'- '''''^ ^^'^^« «f
<'nough material left for i t of u.nH '•m"/'^ *''"''" ^^-^"^'^ ^hen J.e
Baltimore to San Francisco il ve ' f' '"'t'''^ ^" •"'■ "''^^'^ ^"«- ^^^'O'"
" -- .^.s. Journey in :i;-;--i::;Tr;;;;;';::;-^^^^
i«i'
-*!
^^MjMii,
292
PAT-KHTINK — UEMIXISCKNCK OK LOT.
If I live 1 Hhiill nocessarily have to ^o ncrosH tho contiuont uv.iry iio\t
anil tlien in tlin.s(i cars, })ut ono jounioy IVom Dan to Beeraiietta will ho
siifliciput, no douht. It iinist ho tho most trying of tlio two. Tliorcfore,
if wo chniice to di: cover thiit from Dan to BerisJK'ha, .seemed a niiyhty
stretch of conntry to the I.snielite.s, let ii.s not he airy with thenirhut
«?flcct that it ('•(/,.* r.nd in a nu;,'hty stretch when one can not traver:se it
by rail.
The small n;onnd I have mentioned a whih; a<,'o was once occupied hv
the Phenician < ity of Lai.sh. A party of fillihusters from Zorah and
Eschol ca])tui-e(l the i)lace, and lived there in a free and easv way,
•wor.shippin,<r ^rods of (heir own mainifactur(> and stealin;,' idols from their
iieighhors whenever tliey wore their own out. Jerohoani set up a f,'olden
calf here to fascinate liis peo])le and kee]) them from making' dan^'erous
trips to Jerusalem to worship, which niiijht result in a return to their
rightful allegiance. With all respect for those ancient Isnielites, 1 can
not overlook the fact that they were not always virtuous enough to
withstand the seduction of a golden calf Human nature has not changed
much since then.
Some forty centuries ago the 'city of Sodom was pillaged by the Arab
princes of IMesojtotamia, and among other prisoners they seized upon the
patriarch Lot and l>rought him here on their way to their own ))ossessions.
They brought him to Dan. and fither Abraham, who was pursuing them,
cre])t softly in at dead of night, among the whis])ering oleanders and
under tho shadows of the stately oaks, and fell upon the shnnbfring
victors and startled tliem from their dreams with the chisli of steel. He
recaptured Lot and all the other plunder.
Wo moved on. We were now in a green valley, tivi; or si.v miles
wide and fifteen long. The streams which are called the sources of tho
Jordan flow through it to J.ake Huleh, a shallow pond three miles in
diameter, and from the southern extremity of the Lake the concentrated
Jordan flows out. The lake is surrounded by a broad miir.sh, grown with
i*eeds. JJetwceu the marsh and the mountains which wall the valley is
a re.spectable strij) of fertile land ; at the end of the valley, towards
Dan, as nuicli as half the land is solid and fertile, and watered by
Jordan's sources. There is enough of it to make a farm. It almost
warrants the entlnisiasm of the spies of that ral)ble of adventurers who
captured Dan. They said: "We have seen the land, and behold it is
very good. * * * A place where there is no want of any thing
that is in the earth "
Their enthusiasm was at least warranted by the fact that they had
never seen a country as good as this. There was enough of it for the
simple su[iport of their six hundred men and their families, too.
When wc got fairly down on the level part of the Danite farm, we came
to places where we could actually run our horses. It was a notable
circumstance.
We had been painfully clambering over intermi able hills and rocks
for days together, and when we suddenly came upon this astonishing
KwKI'ir HKS(HHK<TKI) A WKAUV
l..\M>,
i'!»;{
siteel. Ho
"C'vo.. 1k.,„, to co.npn.hond in Svh!' ' ""•'"' '" ''"' """'"^' '*"♦ """''«
Here wciv oviMnurs of cwltiviti,,., • i • ,
K-- I-...I or.,.lio„:Lkin. NvH^, rr^^^'Vr- "■"'"" itsl.a,.kHa
tliev were catiiij. ^o,,vd 1, cms H. r' ''''"'' *'"' ^ ^ ""'>• ■""/'/"^^
♦•I^^> lc.rt]i,,u to Tat '11 /:,!,'''' ""*■ "I'l«'^"' to Ik, anv .in«
^^•er. tall, nn.sc, lar. an.l Jvv ui ^ J!"^""o . o„ht .n tl.. wurl.l. TheV
;--l^. They l:a,l H,.,i;^,;^i ;■'''"' ^''■''V'-'^ -itlMuIcy black
with hruad hla.k strij'esl^th ^I " t : '' ' 'n''''"' «-^'"^ '•-'- '•:n'ml
•sens of (]„. ,I,..s(.,.t Tlios. •! ','," '''" l"'-'tu.v.s of th.- swarthy
tJ-luula.han::-Jt k fcl:; i n" *'•""• >-!'^-' '^■•utl.H.s i^-
''■VS.S, the, occ-upation an.I the ] o :. , • . '"' :";'''»"'-'S.tl.o customs, the
•'^"'^'•k«"l .HU- ca'.np last ni ' t 1 I , '; " "" "'" ''T''' '''''■^- ^i't'ey
-<'• the,,, the pii,., ju.i^2 : /^ r,^';;:;;,- ^-•-' -■"• j ti^ hi
'ill pictures of tho " Fli-ht into F,rv . '- '^'^'^^ -"hI .vimMulu is in
(.'liiM iuvri.li,,,, au.l I ■;nl r--''^' ,''''"'''■ -^^"'7 '"u.l the Voui...
t'"^ Httlo .loukevHl;>,uS """"^ "'"'^^'^'^■' ^---^ ''i^'' "''uve
-r;L:'':;!:iL!nir'''^:;t:;;;:!s^r''"''^ '''^" '^f ■'' - '^ ^---^ ^'-'^
time. We .vouM uot have i,^ . ''"* ''"^"■"•■■' •^'"«' J<>^^'l'l»^
-li»^ -ul Ma,. \ I ; ^ : . ZJiaT '" f ''''■' -!"''--tiu. Joiph
ClH-istiau would not. lla^nv AaM r^t'"^""'""' '" ''• ^'"^ '^ ^>™"
will look 0.! I to me. l^'reatter the picture I <ir.st .sp(:ko of
We .saw water, then, but tX^^^' C\u "^'l '''' T' "' '"! ^''^•"- ''^"'•^'••
foot of shade, and we were s v •■ • . i" ''"■''^" '"'"""'' ^^'"^ l'"'i'e a
a great rock in a ^^ar^ZT'^K^^r "^""'^ " ^^^'^'^' ^'"*" ^-' ^^J'"''^^
tbanthat, and .surel^ he " t no n ?. '^ ",' tJie Bible is more Ix-autifnl
•give it sucL touchin^Mlxpres^riu bi^Tl ;'"' '^'''"•^^■^^^ '^''' '' "''''^ ^"
Here you d,> not sto,/ ust whe^vn V' "'V''^' "'^''''^'' ^''^^^^^^^ '"'"I-
found water, but no Zde wT . veli' '"" ' '"f 7^'"' ^^■^" '^^^^ ^^^«
but no water. Wo rested ,...11, i , ."" ""'' ^^'""^^ '^ ^'"'^'^ '^t 1 <st,
but the dragoman does not m^ iTto ,i/fn. l ' '^ ''T 'i'''^'*^ ''"^'^ '""'
plausible lie about the country bin J^ ' V'' -''^ ■'•'' "'^^"te* a
Ai-aUs, who M-oul.l zaake eii ' i" . T^ ''f''''^ ^^ ^'^'^^^^
^'^n, they ought to be hu ^ ^ f ^"^ !" '^"'^^ ^ ''^'"^^'-ouh pastime.
beaten flint-lock ^m, with ifS t£i ^L^C^f ^^^^^^
In
•i04
\\U. (ilMKs IIKIml INS MKMdKIKS uK .losHl A.
has no HiKlitH on it ; it will not niiiy rititlicr tliaii n l.ii-'kl.at. ami is m,
half so (!('rtiiiti. Ami the pt'iit sa.sh tli«iy wonv in iiumv a fujrl aioiiiw
■V rust V
onu;
t\u'\v waists has two oi- tlirr.' al.suid old jmisc-pistols in it that au
from (ftornal disust^ wfapons that wonld lian'.' tire just aln.ul 1,...^
eno;i;.di for you to walk out of lanyc. and then buixt and blow tin- Aral.H
head oH'. Kxi'rt'dini,dy danucious thrsc sons of the desert are.
Ifrnscd toniakcniv i)|(M)d run cold to read Wni. T.t.
I's iVoni ilcdouins, hut I think I could nad tl
rimes' haiilaeailtli
lem now without a
ie\('. o)' was
ti-emoi', H«! never said he was attacked 1)> He.louins, Ihel
«ver trcvited nneisilly, hut then in ahout "e\ery other chapt* r lie .1
i'o\cd tlawn a|.|)ro:ichin^'. any how. and he had ii hlood-curdlin'' fas]
IS
aon
<•♦ woikini,' n|> the peril; and of wijudt-rin^,' how ids relations fai' away
woidd feel could they see their poor uanderinj,' hoy. with ids weai'v feet
and his diui eyes, in such fearful dan,i;-er : and of' thinkin„' fur the lii.st
tin.eofthe .)ld honuMtead. and the dear old church, and the cow. and
thos.i thiuffs ; and of linally strai«,ditenin;r his form to the utmost heij,dit
in the saddle, drawiuiX his trusty revolver, and then dashin-- the spurs
into " Mohammed" and swee[) down upon the ferocious enemv determined
to sell his life as .learly as ]tos.sil>le. True the Beihmins never did any
thni^ to him when he arrived, and never had itny intention of doim,' any
thinu; to him in the tirst ))lace. and wondered what in the nuschief he
was niakin.i,' all that to-do ahout ; but still I c(add Jiot divest myself of
tlie idea, somehow, that a fri>,ditful peril had been t'scaj.ed thronVdi that
nian's dare-devii bravery, and so I nevei' could rend alxnit \Vm. ('.
(JriMKvs' Bedouins and sleep c(md"ortablv afterward. Ihit I l>C'lieve"the
Bedouins to be a fraud, now. I ha\
hii
I. I shall never be afraid of his d
eseen the monster, and lean ontri
un
and (lischarire it.
irin<r tt» stand behind his own irun
About tifteen hundred vears b-fore Christ. thi.>
ha't
Hliieks al)out Inm towtl
camj)-;.;i'ound of ours
he \Va;,ers of Merom was the scene of one of .Tosliua's extermiuati..
li'v Jal)in. Kin,!,' of Ffazor. {u\> yonder al)ov,. Dan,) called all tli
terrible <
ei-, with their hosts, to make readv for Israel'
general who was appioachin;.'-
And wlien nil ilnsf Kin
s well' met t<ij,'i-'tlKT, ilii'v iiiiiic ami iiit(ln'.| to".'tli
II'IJI, llllli'Il iJi'dIM
I'V.Mi ;in
by the Waters of Mi mm, tu lij,']it iii,Miiist Isjl'id
"And thfy wt'iit out, tiny and iill their hosts with il
lb" siuid tliiit is npea the seji-sliniv lor nuiititude," el
Jbit Joshua fell upon theiu and utterly destroyed tl
•itnoh. That was his \isual policy in war. He never left anv chauoe
newspaper ..•ontroversies alnait "who won the liattle. He niaile thii-
bi
foi
vail
liem. root and
\V, HO (piiet now. a reekini,' slaughter-pen
►^omewhere in this part of the country -I do not know exactly where
Israel foujjht another bloody battle a Innulred years later. Del)orah
the pro])]ietess, told Barak to take ten tliousand
against another Kiiiij Jabin wjio had been d ,
cimedown from Mianit Talx.r, twenty or twentvdive nales from 1
men and sally foi-tli
oiu'' sometliintj. l^ar;\k
lere.
K' (ni.MK.sr Ml.' |.|„„.,iK. ^.| ^,j.
■•'"•1 "sk,.,! his K«-Mvro„sS.r.4.nt;., I '''■'■'' '"' ''"' '"'> ^'''••^^V.
•"••.iiKht him sum,, •ill- .,,1 > '"" " "■"!' "f""''t''>-- SI,.
.•.-ahi.e..ns...^,r:;:t;rnt;.XM^^^^^^^ "''"" '-'
=::''-"^'"^' --'- ^-••■•:^'t'r:;.^.::;;!.,!;;:i;:^:
i
>*h<- ImmiIm.vc Woiimii ii, tiir t.i.r.
an,;w;;h'S,';;:,;;i;:::;i:;t:;:^-|.,;'^^
•mhI .stnrkrn Ihroui^l. his ten,,,!,.. " '"' '"'■"' ^^■'"" ^'"' ''^"1 pi>i- I
i..'w,!;:'.£;it'i:;;;'i!:;a ..i. .,.■...„: ..„.,,.
..^luIn^nCr'it:^^^^^^^^^ 'n...n.
abouts ana not s,.;. t.n human Win... • "'''■ f"" ""'-• I'h.v-
Tuth..,-eyion,a..nfth,.,,r-.,,he,.i;..;i,.,,,,,|i,,,^
I Mill iMill" tl'C idiil .'ill 1 I 1 ■
'"■ ast.puisli.Mi Mt ir. \M.| i win ;;'' • ""' •'"'"■ '■'"■""■''■' ^^'"■'•1' 'l"-.-Il th.ivin J,,||
a -v„..,i ,„■,..,. ,..„ .. :X'X:i ^t;;i; rc:;::^. ;;;:, ':::;;;;'::^i:';;.:,:;',i' ' '- - '
hu^lol' Wen fnS;!.''""'" ' ' ''''"'"■' ' '" ^'"""•-•' -' -X tl-^' ..■■oph.vv
phrase "all these kin.., J / 'T*" MU^.te.l al.ove, nenns the
because it carries to n.t nmuUw Hillh • r;^""?"' ^'^ " '"^•"'^"*-
what it always did at lum e i ' ' ^ ' '"'1^ s'Wnitieanee from
proHt bv this tour • n.l Z. f ''' '" ''"'"'-'' *'"'* '^ ' ^vi«l' to
iuterest'couno w U: ':,: "'Tf" ""f "'T'*;"^ "'" ^''^ •"""-- "♦•
must begin\asyst.;, of mluct n fit ; ' ^•'^"-'•V'"^' I'-'^-'^tine. |
out of the Pniised ..ndl-itve i;;^^':^!:: tt!!:;^::^
.A'
m
296
DKSOJ.ATIOX OF THK LAND.
Iar<re a scale. .Some of my I.Icm.s were Avil.l rnou-li. The word Palestine
always brought to my mind a vague suggestion of a country as larcre as
tJie I, rated .states. I <!„ „ot know wliv. but such v.as the case I
suppose It was because I could not cone, ive of a small country havin-r «>
large a histoiy. I think I was a little surprised to find that' the gmnd
Nultan of lurkey was a man of only onlinarv size. I n)ust try to reduce
my Ideas of Palestine to a more reason.able shape. One gets large
impressions ni boyhooih sometimes, which he has to light against all his
lite. All these kings. " When I used to iva.l that in Sunday Wchool. it
sugge.sted to me the several kings of such countries as England, France
f^pam, Germany, Russia, etc., arrayed in splendid robes ablaze with
jeweLs, nmrcli.iig m grave i)rocession, with sceptres of gold in their hands
and fiaslung crowns ujmn their heads. But here in Ani .Alf-llahah, after
coming througlj Syria, and after giving serious study to the character
and customs ot the country, the phrase "all these kings" loses its
grandeur. It suggests only a parcel of petty chiefs— ill-clad and ill-
conditioned savages nuich like our Indians, wlio live in full sight of each
other and whose " kingdoms" were large when they were live miles square
and contained two thousand souls. The combined monarchies ot' the
thirty "kings" destroyed by Joshua on one of his famous cami.ai<rns
only covered an area about equal to four of our counties of ordinarv
size. Thei,oor <jld sheik we saw at Cesarea Philipi with his ragged
band of u hundred <ollo^^-ers, would have been called a "kin.r"in those
ancient times. "
It is sey«Mi in the morning, and we are in the country, the grass ou<dit
to be sparkling with dew, the flowers enriching the a"ir with their fra-
grance, and the birds singing on the trees. T3ut alas, there is no dew
here, nor flowers, nor l>irds, nor trees. There is a plain and an unshaded
lake and beyond them some barren mountains. The tents are tumbliiu'
the Arabs are quarreling like dogs and cats, as usual, the camp-ground ?s
strewn with packages and bundles, the labor of packing them u.)on the
backs ot the mules is progressing with great activity, the horses are sad-
dled, the umbrellas are out, and in ten minutes we shall mount and the
long procession will move again. The white city of the Mellahah, resur-
rected for a moment out of the <lead centuries, will have disappeared
again and left no sign. ' ^
:d Palestine
CHAPTEK XL VII.
Ti;rE traversed some i.nles of desolate eountry mIioso soil is rich
Part Of the ground Ave can.e over Mas , tot p-ound at all, 1n,^ rocks
Sji,; "' '■"'"■«-*"- »«" ''i'"« to ,i,ri,. ,,i.„,„ „,,;, s™
vin tv ' Hi 'e^; .^ tlus reptile n.akes his ho,„e, and n.ocks a h nan
ii'i (I-,
' .*ii' I
,1
' <t Hi
29S
JACKS ADVKNTIKi:.
much yosh.nlHV. lH,t snKvit oauu' of his ..unu-.^t ,|hm,v tu loan. ;u.,l to
make tins journey as useful as the opportunities will allow, no ,e sH-k':
o discourage hun l.y fault-tin.hn,,. We uussed hi,., an hour frou. it
, camp, and then foun.l Inn, some distaure awav, I.y the ed-.- of h l.rook
and with no umbrella to proteet him fron. th.'.'lieree sun! if .eKul
l».en used to ^oinc, without his umhrella, it wouhl have been .veil enou d
a^mud-turtle whu-h was sunnin,;. itself on a su.all In. in the l.n.ok. W..
]Jhc"doner''''*''^""''- ^''"'^''"'^•"" --'^ to harn. hin, for ? What
••Well then, I won't kill him. hut I ought to, I.eeause he is a fra.ul "
\\e asked him why, but he said it was no matter. We asked hin.
wh3. once or twice, as we .salked back to the .■a,..p. but he still su/l
was no matter. JJut late at night, when he was ittin.- in a om f,
mood on the b.d, w. asked him a.Min. and he s ,id • ^"""'^'''ttul
" Well, It don't matter : 1 don't mind it now. but I di,l not like it to-
day, you know, because / don't tell any thing that isn't so, and I don't
think the Colonel ought to, either. But he did : he told us tt prayers ,
the iulg..inis' tent, ast night, and he seemed as if he was rea./ing k o
of the Bible, too, about this country flowing with milk and honev an.l
nbou the vo.ce of the turtle being heard in the land. T thou.d.Vt
mI- n:;:T;V'^"*^^^ ^^-rr '^'-^ the turtKanyhow.l.ut'la^^
me T ^f 't^^f ,^^' "'';1 J'^' «"i«l it was, an.l what Mr. Church tells
to-d. ,^, and I almost burned up m the sun ; but f never hear,! him sin-
T believe I sweated a double handful of sweat 1 /.-now I did-becauM.
t got ,n my eyes, and it was n.iu.ing down over n.v i.ose all the time •
and you know my pants are tighter than any body else's-Taris foolish-
ness- and the aickskiu seat of them got wet with sweat, an.l then got
^ again an. began to draw up .-.n.l pinch and tear loose it was a.vfui
but I never heard hun sing. Finally I sai.l. This is a f.v.u.l that is
rousl^i'r'u'^f "'',?"• if I had any sense I n.ight have U^^^:
liaid on this fellow, and I wdl just give him ten n.iuutes to .^on.n..Mice •
ten nunutes--and then if h.- don't, d.,wn goes his building. Bui l..."
< H^. ^commence, you kn.,w. f had stai.l there all that tin'.e. thinking
« l^tit'/-!'^' '^•'■'**'?T' '"'^•'^"■^*- J'" k*^Pt.>n raising his head uj^
.ml en opening the. out again, as if he was trying to stu.ly up som.^-
u 1. 'b ist.!'^l YrU"" It *'^" 'r""t- -<^''^' -V '^^-l I -as an beat out
asIPe,-'' ''"''' ^"""'^ '*'""" ""'I knot an.l went fast
'• It «-rt.v a little iiard, after you ]iad waite.l so loii.r ""
'• I shoul.l thmk so I said; Well, if you won't si^g. you shan't sleep.
.m> ^^a^, and If y,.u fellows had let me alone I would have n.a.l.^ hilu
.Sinn out of (_Talilee .pucker than any turtle ever .lid yet. But it isn't
any matter now-let it go. The skin is all ..ff tJ ■• baJk of mv neck "
Mill, .'111(1 to
U) one .seeks
ir tVoiii tlic
■ of 11 Wrook.
If he liiul
veil eiiou;,'li.
iig !i clod ilt
)ro()k. We
or / What
■i :i iViiud."
' iisked liini
till s:!i,l it
tliouiilittul
t like it to-
iiiul t don't
: prayers in
<lin-jr it out
lioiiey. itiid
011<J[llt tllMt
mt I asked
liureli tells
ly an lioni-
I hitn sinji'.
1- -lieeause
tlie time ;
is foolish -
1 then got
Was awful
1 that is
ve known
wish to be
uninience :
But lie
. thinkin<;'
liead 11] I
a niiimte
np sonie-
1 heat out
went fit St
in't sieeji.
iindi- liiiii
t it isn't
neok."
JOSEPH'S I'/T-JUSEPH'S MAONVN-rjflTV ANO KSAl's.
2t)!>
About ten iu tl
le
KJian of the Middle A
morning we halted at .Joseph's Pit. Tl
ami arched pit with water in it, and tl
one Joseph's breth
,'es, in one of who.se side coun
lis iH a ruin
lis pit. one ti-aditii
s IS a great walled
ill
by the gi
•lays' journev from hf
mi oa.st him into. A more authentic tradit
<avs,
is tl
ography of tlu> country, jilaces tl
in tl
H(
IH pit in Dothaii. soi
ion, aided
lie two
us
present pit as the true one. it has its intt
owever. since there .ire iiianv who b-l
it'\i'
It is hard to make a d
lOlce (
)f th
rest.
wlueJi IS .so
certain that not many th
g'emmed with lieautiful
iiigs within its lids i
most lieautiful pa.ss.-ige i
passages as the BibFe : but
n a lioo
exquisite story of Joso].li. Wii,, tamrht tl
iiav take rank al
)0\e
It IS
the
simplicity of language, their fel
above all, tl
tl
if'ir faculty of sinking themsel
lose ancient writers their
icity of expression, their ptithos, .ind
!ie reader and makinir th
ves entirely out of sight of
itself/ Shakspere is always present when oi
narrative stand out alone and
seem to tell
IS ])re.sent when we follow tl
Old Testament writ
ers are
Iden
march of his state]
le reads his book ; Macaul;
u
y sentences ; but th
trom view.
It the pit I have been speaking of is the ri<d
there, loni:
g ages ago, wiiicli is familiar to us all
it one,
Jacob had been pasturing their flock
scene transpired
in pictures. The sons of
uneasy at their Ion
thing had gone w
journey: he was only sevente
■s near there. Their fatl
,' absence, and .sent Joseph, his fi
i-ong with them. Ife traveled
ler
j;rew
;inv
ivorite. to see if
six or seven day;
through that long stretch of the'vil
■en years old, and. boy like, he toiled
Asia, arraved in tl
lest, rockiest, dustiest count
e pride of his heart, his beautiful claw-1
of many colors. Joseph Avas the favorite, and tl
♦lyes of his bretl
I'cii: he had dreamed d
foreshadow his elevaticm far above all his family in tl
that
harmle.ss vanity of vouth in 1
was another; he was dressed well and hail" doubtless 'displ
ry in
lamnier coal
lat was one crime in tin-
reams, iiud interfireted them t-.
le far future, .md
iived the
brotl
lers.
The
se were crimes his eld(>rs fretted
■cping the fact jirominentlv b?fore h
and [iroposed to imnisli when tl
• ver among themselv(
saw him coming up from tli<- Sea of <lalilee tl
vere glad. They said " Lo. 1
'pportunity should oH'er. When tl
ley
ey recognized him and
But Beuben {ileaded for his life, and tl
icre is this dreamer- let iis kill hi
111.
ley .s])ared it. But they
he lK».y. and strijipcl the hated <-oat from his back ami pushed 1
the pit. Jl>,y intend.Ml to let him <lie there, but Beul
iioerate hiiii .secretly. H
owever, while Ifenben wa
) some
Tsl
iniat
litisl
while, the brethren" sold Joseph U
were journeying towar<ls Egypt. Snd, is the h istiirV of "x)
the sell-same jut is there in that pi
seized
liim into
H'li intended to
little
lo
s away for
I merchants wl
place, even to this d.-iy
ic pit. And
ill remain until the next detachment of
lIKl
tl
lere
deaecrators arrives from Wn^, Q„„h. . . „,, ^.,^„,„
libly dig it up and carry it away with them. 1
iinage-breakei's ;iiid toinl
r ''/■/'//excursion, and they will ii-fal-
reverenco for the .solemn monunients of tl
or behold in thi
III IS no
f,'o they destroy am
ispare not.
Joseph became rich, distinguished
lord
overall the land of Egypt." Joseph was the' real kin- tl
I'' past, .,nd whither.soever ihev
powerful as the Bible expresse.s it,
le streiiiith.
it
300
THE SACRED LAKE OK (;EXf:SHAHET.
for tli. princely Bo< kmi n Ti;: ', "■' ''f ^^ '^' ''''^ "^^^ '^ «o«'I ^on\
I">.' i« that iH. w,^ Zt Lie WW?""V"' "T 'r '^'""^''^ "'^'"''«^
nobility of dun' rt,,. ,T| t"fr -nT "'"'!'"''•'' "'' <■■""'!»■.*.».'&»
gorgeous sou of the desert say? ' ^""' ''^'' ^^''
. i5i^^4:;r:sti,zsi;: t:ir';;;i*:si:,t;r""rM'"
instate, witli servants h^vrU- ,.e > ;^^^^^ -'"^l 'Jiltlivn, aiul traveling
Just l.efore we e:nue to Joseoh's Pit we li'i.l '• ,•«,•... i" i -n
a fow n.iles l,efore r.s with not .1./ T! ■•''""' "''^l there,
little J.rackish w.-ter in the t h, f .1 "^ ' ^l'*"'^ '"'*'''' ^^'^'''^ ^^■»« '^
PILGKIJI KN-THrsiASM.
301
At iioou we took a .swim in the Sen nf f '.,i;i„„ 1 1
this roastifs cliinato--,uul tl.en unci ■< .,, V'^'''^'"^ '"''^"^'"^'« '"
the fo.mtnia they call A n Ti , T^7 '' '^''V^'^^''^ "'^' %-t'<- "t
na..n. Every Hvule^ ^^^'^^ ^f, J "'r l;r;;l*''••^'■'^^ ''^'^^'^-
part of tJio world is ^l^bb<-,l^v^tlt tit o.^ ;'"''. f''''''^ *'^ this
familiar with the lUul.on, the «^ va t hl^ „ tl " a1 "' ""^^ '"'"'I'^^
transports of adnuration over tl !>» .n/r vl f'T"'^'\>' *'^'^ "^*"
composition in writin^,^ their praises ' If 1 i /'''"'' ^'''''''' "^
that have been diseh.mred n,H tirf.-nvV ^''^Ir*7 «"'^ -'""«ense
this region were coIleJle hook t";^;:i fT V'^' ''''''' --'-T "f
vol.imo to burn. ' ''''"''' "'"^^" =^ "»«t valuable
Diirinf,' luncheon, tlj>. i)ihM-iin entliiisi.i>.fc. ,,r
so li.ht-hcarted and happV ever sh^e tW ^ l "7." '';"'*•"' '''"* '""' '^^^"»
did little but .nntter inciher n 1. s^ ?s if ^"'^ r''"""*^ *^"^* t^'^^'
were they to >^ take slun i^ '• . i 1 • ' '""^*' •'^■•"■•'*^'>' ^'"t' so anxioi,;
that had^borne the ^SS.f ^i;;^ A o;;;^'^^^,^ v^'^' ^''-'l
:t: ™sr;ir?'Cf ;:;^tdi^-^ 7n';^;;.';^if;::;iia;:i
condilion thev n,i.,.l,t bit k " ■ itssk "'''':^' ^'"n '" '^''''' V'''<^'^^
pnuleueo and buv"a m^o ^1^^ f li, ^f *'"" ^''^ -"«ide..t.ons of
8in;^le one for an" hour as niet f V« ^ '" " "'«tead of hiring' a
think of the ruin 1 u'rs s^ s ,k ' '"T "'"" '' ^'^^ ^ t'^-^'l-l^to
could not help n-ilect bo. ,1 "^ Performances n.ight resiilt in. 1
which they have tasted br the i s 'tin A.r? T\' ^ r^^''^'' ^^">^
Lad a right to be surprised at tJ^lt ™^f ^ n^lilt: w f' ^'^^ '''^' '
much concern. These men had been t-m. 7, ^ ^'''"'^ ">« s"
almost to worship, the holy l-la esMr^-e n S ei,. ." ^"""^■•^' ''' '''''''
now. For many and many u vt- ] , J , "^ ^'^'^ f-'"'" '^""•^' ''''^tincr
thoughts by day and C d^li^.^;] 't^orL'^'T ^'"l ^'"*"^ ^'^^^^
before it in tlu flesh-to see it ,s tlj •?'""' ^•'' '"^^'t" '^''> ^'^^""d
hallowed sea, and kiss tll^i:;:^^ J^ S^il^^.t^^r-J^ f^' -l-n the
aspa-ations they had cherished while a S'S^ 1 ''"'V -'^^T '"'''
seasons by and left its furrows in their f^^nS i w'^ ''' ^^'^^"'^
mir. To look upon this picture ands il n,^; ' ^r^' ^'J'^'" t^'^"'
home ami its idols and jLrneW ^ oi a \ ^^f^'' ^^^'T ^'"- ^'"■^^"^^^»
weanne.s.s .and tribuhitien \VUf ! " !' thousands of nn'les, i,,
*.y ,..;u*.nc.. .„,„;:?*;,;;„ bit'. rXv tn;''i:ri;;'j^f/'» "'■.»■","-
lUejr W„|,„, Joy .„e „„„„ eve,.; »,',':S:,r "'"'"" ""' '"-'■"I
i4
*1
Ml
:](\-2
WMV MK DID NOT SAM, ().\ (JAl.ILKK.
Jorda.,, and to tlio place whf.v tlio swine ran down into the .sea--„uick'
-and we want to eoast around every wliere -everywhere ?- all day
long / oonl.l sa, a year in these waters I-and tell him we'll on at
Mn«dala and fin.sh at Tiberias l-ask him how nu.eh?- any t /
uny Inn. whatever '-tell Imn we don't care what the expeii is > H
said to myself, I knew how it would he ] ^
J'W;,Hso. (interpreting) -" He says two Napoleons -eight dollars "
( )ue or two eonntenanees fell. Then a j)aus,.,
" Too nnieh !- -we'll give him one I"
r never s]>all know how it was .1 shudder yet when f think how the
pl.iee .s given to n.iraeles- l.ut ni a single instant of time, as it seemed
to me, that slnp was twenty paces from the shore, an.l . pee.lin<. a^v
a I ( . to h nk ot it^; tins- tins- after all that overn.astering ecstaev '
Oh. shame ul. shameful ending, after su,-h uns.-endv hoastin." It .L
too much l.ke '. Ho : let me at him.'" foUowcd I.y 'a pn.dent - Two "•
you hohl him- -one can hold me .'"
Instantly there was wailing and gnashing of .teeth in the eamu. The
two .Napoleons were oliered- moip if neeessnry--and pilgrims and dra-ro-
uan shouted themselves hoarse with ,. leadings to the retreatim^ boa men
to come back. But they sailed serenely away and paid no further 1 ee
to the pilgrims who ha.l dreamed all their lives of som<. ,lav skinunin
over the sacred waters of (laJilee and listening to its hallowed stor n
the M-luspenng ot its waves, and had .journeyed c.mntless leagues to do
It and--and then concluded that the fare was too high. JmperLn
Moham.nedan Arabs, to thinic such things of gentlemen of another faith -
Well, then, was nothnig to do but just submit and forego the i.rl.ilecr,.'
o voyaging on Umessaret. after coming half arou.ul the glol>e to taste
hat pleasure There was a time, when the Saviour taught here, that
boats were plenty among the iishermeu of the coa8t-)>ut boats and tish-
*.rm^u both are gone, lunv ; ;uid old Josephus had a fleet of men-of-war
in these waters eighteen .-enturies ago--a hun.lred and thirtv bold canoes
-■l>ut they, als,), h,ne passed away and left .u> sign. They battle here
no more by sea. and the commercial maiine of (lalihx. numbers only two
,small ships, .justot a pattern with the little skiffs the <lisci,,les knew
One was lost to us for good- the other was miles away and far out of
K) we mounted the horses and rode grindv on "toward Ma.rdala
hail
Mant of means of passiii"-
cantering along the edge of tlx^ water for
over it.
How the piig.'inis abused each <.ther : Each said it was the other's
fault, and ea^>h in turn denied it. Xo word was spoken by the sinners ~
even the mildest sarcasm might have been dangerous at such a time
Sinners that have botm kept down and had examples l:eld up to them"
and surtered frequent eetures, and been so put on in a moral way and in
tlie matter ot going slow an<l being serious and bottling up slan-' and
so crowded m regard to the matter of being proper and alwavs and for-
ever behaving, that their lives have become a bu.'.len t.i them, would not
\l!OIT CAl'KaXArM.
;{(•;{
♦•cstacy !
It was
•Two „f
them to .lo it. ()tlienvilTl, - V M >T1' '* ''""''' ""^ "^•^•"•' *"
^^th^ i:;t;:'s;;r"''^'j;^^^'^^-^'- - --'^ th..„. fair;: :^
jU^th.n. h,..M,M. ,t sl,..v..l tl.ev wm. only poor l..„nan poopl. lij<. ,„,
I' MIS,, and .,eu". also, lie rai.sed Jainis's dau-l.tcv tVoni i\J .Ip„1 U.
I
304
Christ's four bkothers.
journeyed to Tyre and Hidon. He choHe the twelve disciples and sent
saida and (horazin-v.llageH two ov three miles from ( !a,.ennu,n Tf
was near one of then, that th« .niracnlcus draft of ti ?»« i^ n osed In
hol^T *;'""' "T^ r- -as in the desert places no r t he o 1 "tU;
he fed the thousands by the miracles of the loaves and iZZ w
cursed then, both and (.-apernaum also, for no "p n im j : "Ii, t^!
great works he had done in their n.idst, an.l prophec ^a- . t .em
They are all m rums, now- -which is LM-itifvii.'r t,. fi, . ' '•■'•!"'"%"'"'i-
judgment "-an.l what business have mud-hovels at the Dv of II ' I,
W Capernaum, and he ali visited cC^.;rp.i^f"';V:^;;S.t^irt'"
hi« old home at Nazareth, and saw his i>ruthers ji is, ami Ju hs C
James, and Sunon-those i.ersons who, bein- own n-Xr V
Chr.^ one would expect toS.ear numti^ned TonXeil^'^vJi; '':'•;!
saw their names in a newspape.- or heard them from a i,ulr,i7 \\n
ever inquires what manner o/youths they were; and w e e ev W
with Jesus, play,Kl with lam aiul romped about him; ouarr Xd Si/ Id
concerim^g toys and trifles; struck him in anger, no s ism^h /w nt^h^^^^
was ? Who ever wonders what they thou.oht when the'v s.w bin
back to Nazareth a celebrity, aiul liked hmg It is i f^mllia ken:
make sure, and then said, " It ;,s- Jesus ?" Who wonrl. « ^T f ? •
wonders if the brothers of Jesus asked liin! to come home ;vUl tW
and said his mother and his sisters were ^a-i^ned at hi- In,?,!? \
would be wild with delight to see hisllitl^'^fe'^!:!^::;;-^;
thought to the sisters of Jesus at all?_yet he h^d sisters; and nemm-es
of them must have stolen into his mind ofton when he C i .' w '
among strangers; when he was homeless and said he had not wler: t
carpenter. We know the family. We si' them e "rv d v Ire no?
Ins brot lers name.l so and so, and his sisters so and .o, ad ' is not hi
mother the person they call Mary ? This is absurd." He d d no cur e
las home, but he shook its dust from his feet and went away
Capernaum lies close to the edge of the little s.^a. in a small" vlain sonie
five miles long and a mile or two wide, which is mildi; imd with
THE CRADLE OF CIlIU.STrAidTV. gpg
beautiful as ti.e books p.int om T ' . . '^'"■' "1^' '' ^Miviou.iy
look ui,on their conuainoss and live ' '"'"' ""' '"''""^"t" '" ^•••^'^
< >no of the most ustonishi,,,, thin'-s that In ve v,.f ru
servntiou is the exceeilin-'lv shnll m't / ! ^ ^""''" '""'f^'' 'J^-'" ^>^i~
t;- now flourishing phln^^r^S;;;;'''^"^'^
.Saviour ever perfornuil was fro.n he,v t" " '""t"''^ J"'"-"'-'y "»"
to on., huiulrecl un.l twenty nh T J<' •usahnn-alumt onohnilred
Hidon sayabout sixty o^s^'nJv >ni^' "' L^s^^nT*' " '"" ^^"^ "'
-ns Animcan appreciation of distance; .v.^ ^ ' ^f . n' "^ '"'"' '^■'''
I'luces made most ].articnlarlv celebrit, ,1 1 v "■'*"'''">" «"'-gest-tho
>'e'u-ly all rii,dit he r. in fuH ^i , l i '^ ^'"' l'^'^"-'*',''^'^" «'*' ^-iH'i.t are
Leaving out^wo or lln.Js ^iu v^ o f th^"" -""''^ "' (^H'.u.unu
l>reaclK.l his gospel, and perf;>; a ! '^ n^ ^^ T;;!"'- '" "^'^"^ ^"^ ^'^^
larger than an ordinary county in the Un t 1 ^ f r! -' """^i*^'-^^ •">
can do to c,.nprehend'this st^el • " iTu^^^. ' '' '"' ""•^'' '"^ ^•
Iiave to read up a hun<lred .,,.-,«. ,,F l,;.f ^ '''''''■"^ '^ '•'="! out to
ftn- verily the 4lebmt(o,Jfe;: IJpV'v'^''^' '^^'^ "'" ^^"^^'^ '^'il'^s- .
How wearily, how b:nv 1^" u ^ " £;^''"''T ^"""' ^''^^"^ ^"'-o together
i-iuotin.> we ..ached i;^,:^,,;-;;;^^ -
•JO
C 11 A P T E K X I. V I I I .
MAUDALA is not ii iKMntlfiil place. It is thoruii-lil\- Syriuii. aiui
tliat IS to say that it is tlioroun;liIy „gly^ and cnu.mcd, squalid.
um;uiafurtal)lo, aiul liltliy— just tlie stylo of cities that have adorned the
coiuitiy mim A.laiiis time, as ail writers have labored hard to prove, and
Ji;iv.) sneeei'ded. Tiie sti-eets of Ma,i(dala ar.^ any wlu.-ro from thr.;e to si.v feet
vide an.l reekm?.- with nncleanliness. The lioiises are from fivo to seven
teet hi;,'li, and all bailt upon one arbitrary plan— the )nit,n-aeefiil form of
<liy-goods box. The sides are dahbed with a smooth wliite ])last(U' ;ind
tastelidjy frescoed aloft and alow with disks of oamel-dunL' placed there
to ( ly. This o-ives the edifice the romantic ai>pearance of havin-- been
riddled with canon-balls, and im])arts to it a veiy v.-arlike aspect. When
the .nrti.st hns arre.nnc.a ],i« materials with an eye to just i)roi)ortion— the
wnall and tlio lar.ux! Hake.s in alternate rows, and sejtarated by carcjfully-
cousidered intervals— I know of nothin-,^ more cneerfid to look upon than
a_ spirited Syrian fresco. The Hat, ])lastered roof is -arnished by
l»ictures(jue stacks of fresco materials, which, having become thoroiedily
dried and cured, and placed there where it will bo coinenieut. ft is
used for fuel. There is no timber of any coiise(pienoe in Palestine- none
at all to waste upon tires— and neither are there any mines of coal. If
luy description has been intelligible, you will perceive, now, thata S(juare,
flat-roofed hovel, neatly frescoed, with its wall-top.s gallantly b:;stioned
and turreted witli dried camel-refuse, give.s to a landscape a feature that
IS exceedingly festive and picturesque, e.speciallv if one in careful to
remember to .stick in a cat wherever, about the premises, there is njom
for a cat to sit. There are no windows to a Syrian hut, and no chimnevs.
When I usetl to read that they let a bed-riddei. iniin down through the
roof of a house in Caiiernaum to get him into the presence of tlie
Saviour, I generally had a three-story brick in my mind, and mar\eled
that thty did not break his neck -svith the strange exiierinieiit. I perceive
now, liowever, that they might have taken him by the heels and thrown
Lim clear over the house without discommoding hun very much. Pa.les-
tme has not changed any since those days, in manners, customs,
architecture, or peo])le.
As we rode into ^Magdala n- .t a soul Avas visible. But the ring of the
honses' Jioofs roused the stupid population, and they all came troojting out
— old men and old women, boys and girls, the blind, the crazy, and the
or.l) TIIIIMMAS.
no7
cnp,.!.,!, ,il in ra^'god, suil,.,l nn-l soautv mi.nont .,,,.1 ..11 >,) ;.. . i
l>y imtui-p, instinct i.n.I clnratim, Fr„v.. fi '• . ''"''^ ■"'^'^Mrs
di.l swan,.: H„w tlrv r.i fl *''" ^••■••"'»'-tortnn.,l va..,l,o,uls
throats, wiil/ H. c3 1 ; ^'•^'''''"'^'^ ""^ -f" t'''i'- i"<i.l..l
As w,. n.M- I Vi • , , ' "*"'■•■'■ '" " ^*"'''" '•'<•• that lM.f,„r
and 1.V .nan. u i i^^'l ;f: 'l^^ ''""^^ -' «'••'' t'"-^'' tl. ...vn
ind.-smvan.iulo.i 1, H^ t,l w. can., to a I.ran,l,i,-inf,.st..d
i"ff of St M rv Ar 1 ^ 7"n wind, liad l.-n. t].. vritahlo dwcll-
down portions o^tleWw.df-; /''''" 1'"^''"- t°"^<
and tJ.en wo ,l,.,!a, ';'! ' «i'"^-»n..n:s as ,s th.ir honored enst..,n,
TilSa:"^^"rnt'U!'':i.|:'r'' 'T^;.'-*.-^^-- ^Ih. .it, ..an. of
peoi,h.-w,Jar<Tnotl ! !T\ '"*"'''" •"■^''^'■"" "'"'^ J^'^k.d at its
itidistanor Thl? ^1±^^^ Its ,..o,l« a ro best examined
their .lower strnn.Mn.on Jl! • ^''" ""■^- I^^"' yo'-'.^T ^von.en wear
toi.of t].o]u.n ^7;";/ T r^""^^ "■"''" <lownward fron. tin-
together or inhorUe ^A^^t!^'"^' '''"T ^""" "''^'■'' ^'-y ^-ve raked
few had been y^ryLJlt^^^^^C^'^''' "" r"' "T^^''^"' '•"*^^'-'
in their own rii,ht-woi.t ' ,, t ' t'" ■ ] "'''" ''^i^'-'^ses worth,
much as nine ,lolla rs a u Ir ' jl "i?T" ^ '"'^'''* ^""^'"•'^ *" ^'^^'^ <''«
come aeross one of th .^ 1 \ "'^' ^"''^" '"'" '•"•'"• ^^'J'f>» von
for buckshoes SI e^jl tr'""""^' '""^^ "'' "■-• ^''" -"' "ot I-sk
assnmes a^ ernshin^ i- ,1 ? , ''"" ^'"''""^ "^ "'^''"«' fan,i]iaritv. She
tooth comb and ; ;;;; :i'^ , ;' i;::s^r "r'^ ?r"'"'"^ '-'''' ^'^^' ^"''-
at an. Some peiple e;;;/not ialldVis;;^: "^ '' "'" "'••"' ""* ^'^'^^^'^^
with'tL1ndii;^;-baShXi 'r'7' .'^^■^I-^^^-J-'^-^. body-snatchers,
each ear, are tl e o f n i i^ ' / j^' '^ ?" enr^ dangling ,lown in front of
Scri,,tnr;s. Verily ti;,;;/''^T'ft^'"''« PI'a'-asees we read of in the
and Vithont othe ^wSn^^ one nSl f "^ T"^^ '^^ ^i'"^''' ^^ ^ ^t^l^'.
ness was their spoeiah'tj ' "'''^ """!'""* *''='* ^'Ifrigliteous-
named after the En p r^ S "n " "it' i 'T",'- "' f"^;" *'•"' ^•■^''*^^^' ""''
the site of what m„JtCv;t:ru.J,:'t";;^^^''* ^^ ^^''"^!- "1-^
architectural pretensions iud-i.^ b^ fl ""^- ' , '""'' eon«id,..rable
scattered tlirough Tib"" ;suid down . , ?' l\''l'''^^^"^^ J""''^'" ^^^^ «r«
s xiotuasana down the lake shore southward. These
sm
«|>\TKA8TED SC'KXEUV.
m
W(>ro m.U.I, ..nc- aii.l y.,t. ultl.ouKl, tho «toiu, is about as hanl as iron
lesH t ,0 <..h( la-y mlunuMl wmv (li.stiu-ui.shr.l „iur.) lur ..l.v.uuv than
Kraudour Hus „.o.I.,.m U.svn- .TilK.rias'-i.s ouly nH.u.iu.a..l iu • New
it'Ktaiiicut ; luncp ill till. Old, ' • ui uu .>icw
Tl... Sanli..,Iri.,MuH, licm la.st. a.ul Cur tliivo li.iii.hvd v.-ans TiluM-ias
was tlu, n.otn.poliHorth., J.u-s iu Palostinr. It is o . • ,? t , Vr
.olyc,t...s o tl... Is,..u.Ii,,.s. and is t„ 11..,,. wl.t M... is " , A .,W
'-'-•-m.l .J..n,s:, nn to tla- Cluistian. Jt has luru Ih.al.idi,,./, Kc f
'"""y "••^'•■"■'l "u.l lU.uous Jewish ral.hins. Th..y Ho Inuin h • a ,
noar th<.u la, also tw.uty-liv. tho„sa>al of tlni.. Lth who t.a vol ..I Ur
to Ik, near tla.,a wh.l.. tluy liv..,l and li. with th..,a wh.u th.-v 1 i • Tho
^n. llMn J!..a Jsnad sp.ut thnu, years hco in tia- .a.l J i of to
tliu'd coiitiiry. JLms dc-a.l, now. "" '
Tho c<.l.-l.nitcd H.a of (;ali!,.„ i., not so lai-<, a s... as J.ak'o Talu,..* l.v
.t ...od d..al -t ,s just al,out two-thirds as lar^-. And wh. w 'co no t^
sneak ot l.oanty tins sra is no nuav to ho .'■oiai.nv.l to ' i.h ,. t n
mendmu of lon-itu.lo is to a rainlx.w. Tin. Ji,a w Uris of s „
|K;ts,p.st tholin.pid l.rilHancyof Tahoo; ti::; .l^ "h / '^ hlw
Inllocks of rocks au.l sand, so .k-void of porspoctivo, can not s ' . st th^
MJ-aud i,..tk8 that coa.pass Tahoo liko a wall, and whoc hl^ .ad
.■I.asmod fronts aro clad with stately pines tha sccni to -^row s r U
snuU or as ,h.,. . .indj. till ouc n.ight fancy thon. rodaco:l^^" " a
si d> far opward, where tlioy join tho everlasting snows. Silen o
. ohtudo brood over Tahoo ; and silene<, and solitu.ro brood also over Is
h.k.; CJencssarot. But tho solitude of tho one is as che-r tVd nl
fascnnahng as the solitude of the other is .lisnad and nMHIanl
111 tlie eorly n.ornin,!,^ one w.^ohe; iho silent bat lo of ilawu and
< arl ness upon (he waters of Tahoo with a placid int.uvst ; but when ho
shadows sulk away and one by one the hidd .i t.cautie f t L„re
unfold then,solv..s ,n the full splendor of noon ; when tho si Z^r£"L
belted hke a rn.nbow w.th broad bars of blue and .^...n an.I wh e ha ?
the .hstance from cuvuniforence to c.ntre ; ^vhcn in the la.y ™^^
^ternoon,ho lies in a boat, far out to who,; tho .Ld hlj^ ZTZ
dis; ':^rj:^url^Zi:7.t:'':jT .:•''-" ^^-- the boat
«a.. by tl. hour down tili^Ju jrthe ei^La, d:.;;nr:i ^t^^ t;:;^:;:::
of the peoldcs and reviews the finny armies gli-Un,^ in pro'-ession a
hnndr^lfeet ludow; when at ni;^ht ho seos n.il^n and sUii "u^ lin
vidgos featliered with pines, juttini,' white capes, bold proniont a^ios n
Hwe(,Ms of iM,p,l sceneiy topped with bald ;^Iinuue in-^ p" ks i il".^n"
nrhcently pictu,.d m the polished mirror of Ihe lake, i'l ISt^t; "S
-;i/r'":';:;''lJ;:^;:.;;^,S";;,rf ;>■'--- ^ ;- '-• --:'• '--"• -^'^ it than
ii>)t lai'atKJii It. ■ ' 'u-iuxii.iK
of lill
f:a.l
the !!!!
hills, ]
oaiMK'n oprxiox.
301>
dftml, tl.o tiau.,,„I int,„.Ht tluifc was l.on. w„J, ,1 • ,
«loo|H-i..s, hy s.u-M ,|,.^,,,r.s till it cm!. I. W " '""'•'""?? •I'"<'|km..s an.l
Tt is .s,;iit„.|., C l.i is „ 1 ' '^ "' ';''^^ ".' '•^'^i^'l'-'^ fH.vination !
"•>t tl.. .„,t„f sniitu I, ,, U ""■ '" '""'^'•' '^ •><l'"nviM. iM.t it is
f'.int into v„-^.„. prMNi.rtivt I, f 1 ""^''. ""'""•"' »'"" ♦'"'•• ""<l
«tu,.i.i viii... .r'Ti..!.n.' ^i j r!'';;,i :i;•''■^''V'''"'?''':'' ^ ^'"^
I'^'i'"^; you.!,..- ,h,s„i,it. .Lciivitv wi:,. • '^'V*^"";'''''' I'l"""- of
'J-vn into tl.., so,,, ,„ul ,l..ul.tl..ss'tl. ;: i tl^^Z " V'"" n''"^"'" '"'^
or wo au.l ..,t ,|,...vvn,.,l int,> tl,. 1... '; a |" "'' *" T"7'^ '''^11
«'H. n 1.1..." ; tins cIou,ll,-ss. Llisfri, 'rs . ! ,':."^^" *" ir '""•'"'■ '"
I'lkf. ivposin;,' within its rim nf v M i •.'. *'" ^ ■^"''■""'. Si'illc^s, tintlcss
'-■-.;; Justus .■x,,4;::rr ,•;::;;' r ;;; / ^"^^'' ^^-i' !-•<«. -»
•"Story o„t of tl.,.',,,„.,tion ) as .mi / '" '"' ''''''■" '^^ ^"'''""••
"xist, r think. " ^""'^ ^'"' '•"'•'^' '"<" ' ■ ^1<'"P- mother, non.
•'lit I slioiild n„t (.H'cr the cviil..!.,.,. «. 4i
'l<'f<-M,s,. unhnar.!. Wn. ( ' ) ri ^'"' '"'"^ *^^"^'«'^ "'"^ '^''^vo the
m. I . l.nnics ilcposos as follows :_
'•••'SM. IM whirl, it li,.s. Tllis is V,>n f .• . 7" •'^ ••''^"■"•tfli ^tic «f it is thr .K.,.„
ex..Tt .t ,1,.. l,nv>.r ..,■.!, a 1 s ZZi^'tu'^ '",""''"";' '^ " '''■"'• '^" "1' e^
fim-M ,s i.pok..,. ,•„„! ,!iv,.,si.i,.,i .v' 1 Kiv ;; r::^^^ '^■''"■'' """" <■•■ ""-• "•ci..>.st
way .,nv„ thron.-i. ,1,.. .si,l,..s ,.C tl„. la , i, ,,''■'■■'■''"'' r ^y'"'"' ^^'"'^ ^'»^"-
Nh.i- hl.,.,.ia.s tl„s,,. I,anks n>v n.kv a 1 'if, ",''"'"" '" '-''» «"""y valleys,
.loons towai-,1 tli.. water. Tli.-v sei;. ■/,. L •■''•l"il'lnvs ..pn, , ,|„,,„ .^^^ „; ...
«U'.1u,s, tlK.ysliouM walk 10^1. an „. ,;''"/"''•'" "^ ''<"' ^'""'I'l n-ach' the
<>i. tlie ..ast, the wild au.l .les..lat'MuU,h ■?.'''', ' '■'•";•'' ' «l'"i""'^ ''^'"Uty.
h.s w,„te erowa to heawa with a , r ' , ^ i.i I V ''"^''' ''?'" ' *''^' «'■". ''''"'S
ot a hna,h,.,i .ueneratioas. Oa tlu' t ..'^ I , ^ ^f''*''"'''''' " '"""-' *''"^''''l'^
this i,s the oaly tree of aav size vis In , f I *'"" """ '""' '"«'^' ^'v, ami
?".'lvraIa,siatheeityolTiln.H rtl ritssH^^^^^ " •""' ^"' ' -'^-I't ^Uew
t.oa haa woal.l a foreit. The w lo] a ^^./n„ ,? '''^'T, l'"'^'""" ""' ■'•^ »'">•- "ttea-
woal,lex|.oet aa.l.hsire the .warn- n''.; .'/';'' "''"'' '« I" 'i^fly what we
caha. The very aiountaias arc eaha." ^'^''''''^--^''''^ '" '^^S «>aa,l 1 .ty. l.ut .luie?
ton will hoYound llineath ""''"'^ ^'^ •'^^'^I'l'^'*' *'''>"^ '^ '-'^kele-
lightly rJe^,\viU;SrhS^^^.:t::1nS ^"^^ '■'''' """
Inlli l-shonhi h^rLdot X n^:'"" «t..ins • ' (low%lesolate
.; m tlie north, a mountain cullod Hennou
310
C. W. E. S Ol'lMO.V.
%vitl, SHOW cm it ; i.eculiurity of tliu picture, ••calmness;" its uromiucut
leatiire, one tree.
_ No ingenuity could make sucli a picture beautiful— to one's actual
VLSion.
1 claim tlie riglit to correct misstatements, and liave so corrected the
color ot the water m the above recapitulation. Tin; water's of CJenes-
.saret are of an exceedingly mild blue, even from a high elevation and a
distance ot live miles. Close at liand (the witness was sailing on tlie
lake,) It IS liardly i)roper to call them blue at all, nuich less " deep" blue
1 wish to state, also, not as a correction, but as a matter of opinion, that
Alount Hermon is not a striking or pictuivstpie mountain by any meaius
being too near tlie height of its immediate neighbors to l)e so. ' That is
all I do not object to the witness dragging a mountain fortv-li\e miles
to help the scenery under consideration, because it is eutiivlv" proper to
do it, and besi(h's, the jiicture needs it. - i i
" (A W. E.," (of " Life ill the Holy Land,") deposes as follows :—
U,,"/^^"''""*'''"^ ^TJ^'v ""•■osoni.Hl iininn,^. tlie Calik.aii liilLs, i,. thu.nid.st of that
utZ"" ^f''f^"}^'y f •^1';", '""I >;^'l;l'tali, A.siu.r .n,l Ihu,. The ..,„•.. ol' the .sky
IHMi eta ,.,s tlie deptli.s ot the lake, and tlie wntei-.s are sweet and cool. Ou the west
stre eh iroud lertiie i.hnns ; on the north tlie roeky .slior.'.s rise stei. hy .step untirin
the Jar distanee tower the snowy Iiei-hts ol'Heriiion; ou the east throu.di a iiiistv veil
are see,, ui the high plains of Pen,,, whiel, .st retell away in rugged iiiouiitaiirs "lead-
ing the iijui.l hy varied iiath. towai'd Jenisalwa the iiolv. I'krwers l,h,oi,i ii, thi.s
tenvstriid iiai'adise, one.- heautiful and verdant with waving trees ; sin-dn-r binis en-
chant the ,,„• ; the tnrtle-dove s.K,tlios with it.s soft note ; tl'ie .'rested lark fends units
song toward heaven, ai,d the grave and stately stoik inspires the niind witli thoindits
and leads it oi, to meditation and repose. Life here was onre idvllie, eharniin- -'liere
were ouee no r,eh, no imo,. no high, no h)w. It was a world of ea.se, siinpIi.dtV ami
beauty ; now it is a .srene of desohition and niiserv " ^
Tl
lis is not an ingenious picture. It is tlie worst I
.scribes in elaborate detail Avhat it tei
closes with the startling infoiiiiation that tl
desolatioii and nu'ser//.
ms a " terreiitrial paradise.
lis paradise is " a
ever saw. It de-
11(1
scene
of
I liave given two fair, average specimens of the character of testimony
ottered by the majority of the writers wlio visit tl '
Of the beauty of the scene I can not
us re<rion.
One
!^ys,
say enough," and then proceeds
to cover up with a woof of glittering sentences a thing which, when
strip[,ed for inspection, proves to be only an unobtrusive basin of water
some mountainous desolation, and one tree. The other, after a conscien-
tious effort to build a terrestrial pauidise out of the same materials, with
the addition of a " grave and stately stork," spoils it all bv blunderin<r
upon the ghastly trutli at the last. " °
Nearly every book concerning Galilee and its lake describes the
scenery as beautiful. No— not always so straightforward as that
Sometimes the impression intentionally conveyed is that it is beautiful
at the same time that the author is careful not to say tliat it is, in plain
teaxon. But a careful analysis of these descriptions will show' that tlie
materials of whicli they are formed are not iudividuallv iKjautiful, and
PKNOMIXATIONAL .SHJUT-yKKINci
311
<'.;iu not bo wrouglit into convl,i„Mtions tliat are Ixniitifnl TI. .
tion ami tJ.e affection wl.icl, some of tliose men St tl, A '"?'"
'1'^;;. ;.' ™y n,... if .1,0, ,.i,r„„t , Je;.(ve' ,;!r.,,.*ii-;';: ,,;;{,:;■■:• -^
m Rob nson WJiif tliPi- ^,;,) ,.,) /i »'woiu i toiuul it attei'wai-d:*
Book." Thcv Inve s ,X,. ., '* "\ ^^'•. "^""1''^"h's '• J.an.l an-l tho
pil^'rim's creed. '-unics-AMth tJie tnits varied to .suit e ioli
PiJgrinis, sinners and Arabs
Labor in loneliness is irksome.
now,
nnice I made my last fi
tew notes, I huva
.0>
i
;;^'
•l,#i
312
THi: SACIIKI) SKA JJY XlCHT.
been sittino- outsule the tent for lialf un Imm- TV.Vl.f ; ^i i-
even the mont uniu.pressiblo nu.styiehl to the dnl ny in u™ ^s of hS
to st:.n,I upon its stni^^e and proclaim its hv^h deorees BuV\n t Hn^
light one say.; Is it for the deeds whid, Avn'o'^no nd the I-
^e^Z' "''' "■"■ "'"*"^^"*^ *''^^* ^^'-1' *'»' eircun^ferenee o? ^^
-.^cLa?"uXh";^ ^* ""''; "^"" "'^^'* ^"^^ ^'^^'^'-^ '^»^ mcon,ruitios
•iKi citatoil a theatre propor for so grand a drama.
J >■■':'
CHAPTEE XLIX.
icongniities
three SNvims arc equal to a IS u'e ti 1^ ' '"'"' ""* ^="'^'''' ''"*
visible in tl.e water l.ut wo I'l ^'"p."'^* ^Tliorc wore ].lpntv of fisli
lite.at.u.e of like ^o^^tt^o i^llJ^!'' ^"^ ^^°"'^'" '-'^. V^^o.
l>e l.ad in th.- vilhu^o of TiLevinl '''p " '*-''^^'' • ^liere were no iish to
mending, their nets b^t ,tZt ■ ' ""'\ ''''''' *'^" '^^^ *^'''^"^ va.,.vl,on(l^
Wo did not <lnfa f '■^''"^^' *'' ""*"'' nnythin.c with thenl
Ihac nodScf .S^';:;i^7''™' ''='*t,^-'> -i'- ^-1"- Tiberias.
and l-.upted n"i^' ;;: di^i^^r^:, t^"' "^T' /^ "^^'^ '^^'•''»^' '
indifference was. It tm-, ed ^ + 7^'^* .*'"\'^^'"'«° -^^ tins unreasonable
them. I have conceive Irf «"" I 'l.y because Pliny nuntions
Pliny and St. Cl Tec ul ? .o "'"^''^'T'l!'*'^''!" unfriendliness t,)war<l
that I can have nn Sf Tt T '"" '\ ^ '''' '''''"' ^^''■"'^ ""^' '^ l''-"
p^>i hns been t^ thli^ L,^n:^ pS;;^;;; ^^™s.^;r '^{"^-^ ''-'^ '^■
if-era,iratedt!f;;!!;t:f'l;^t:;^ar^^^^^
young-say thirty yL of ...< ( n if M^;rh::!''7'^r'';''""f
51 gorgeous voIImw nnd rn,l ..f • '/ \' ;^ '» '^'' ''<' Imu el.)S.ly bound
fringed with t.ssis],; i f " '"'^ 'l^^ ''''''' ''^"'''' onds, ' lavishly
wind. F,^ f :,s s ;;rr "" •"' '■" ?"''"'''''^ '"»' '''^"-'i -^th ti^
that M-as a ^ciy bu-:sn n b. 1 l"'' "' "'r'''*^ ^'t' '^ ^•'^''" ^^^I't .In.-n
Waek and whit -. , f] i'T' "' "T'"' '•""^ ^i"'-- ''^n. of
•sten> of a chibouk nvLd ''"'- ,■^■"i'••:;^^•^"'••'^ "Pl-arently. II,.. ].ng
Athwart his ),Sc XI^ ;'''•' /•^T''^';'. ^^^■: '^'''^^•'' ''i^ 'i^U shoulde.-
was an Aral, g i/ o^^ ^ ;! ^^ '^''"l^'''? ^''^'' "^"•"' '''^ ^"^'^ ^'"••''^'-••
plating from sh.^ c ca^ , ^ "' t^V T" ''''""'''' "'^'' ^'^^^^
barrel? About his wvis ws ' /'' 'aeasureless stretch of
ateiy finished in,t:ui;t;i^n;;fni;v"' T' " '■"'' "^■••^"'-'-
and among the ba4' f( Ids . f tha ean.e frou, sun,,,tu,a,s i'.asia,
formidable' batter ;t\dl.., . "; ''""' '^^""■'^ y'"'^^"' ^■'-'» '^
!i*«
314
AX APi'ARITIOX.
; f r "^", 1 l^'T"'^''«"« ^''"'k of vast tassels tliat swung from
tliat sack 1,., and clanging against the iiou shovel of a stirnn. that
pn^od the svamor's knees np toward Ins chin, was a crook ^^ii^
c ad sc.enK.tai- of such awful din.ensions and such iniplacahh, express o,
that no n>an nught hope to look vipon it ami not shudder. Tin/ We
H-H lK.di.ened pnnce whose p,-iviiege it is to ride the pjny and lead The
ephant ,n<o a country village is j.oor an.l naked compared to this chaos
doCn'uI^Hnf ' "^^"^^*'-^" ^^^^ -« ^he trendding en,ui.y all
"Our guard: Fro.a (ialileo to the l.irthplace of the Saviour the
country is infested with fierce- Bedouins, whose sole happiness i« i's iu
11^, hhe ^Ih'' "•' ""' "" "'"'^^^ ■"''' "^"^•^^*'^' --»-'i"y ChHslL"
■'i-lJtlil lit! Willi lis.
horili^' will!'' ''' 'TT'\ Would you send us out an^ong these desperate
Jiou es, ^vlth no salvation in our utmost need but this old turret I"
vort l^T'''-f ^'''^''-'^-'^^.^ '>t tl'« facetiousness of the siniile, for
ei t 'wl ^T ?■ If '^'"''' "'■ *''"* ''^•^'y'^">=^'^ ^'ever yet lived ipou
ti t o • '; i?^ "' '"" '" ^i'"^'*'^* appreciation of a joke, even though
tf at joke ueie so l.road and so ponderous that if it fell on him it would
flatten him hke a postage stamp_the dragonmu Luighed, and then
"t ;:;"ti^ ^^r'Tf' ''"' "'" ^" ^^'^ •'^■'^"' ^^^ ^'^^^' i---S
to extremities and v/mked.
In .straits like these, when a man laughs, it is encouraging ; when he
wour?l - l-'^-fb- ™'-"J.'- He finally intimated^tluU^oue guard
would he sufhcient to protect us, l.ut that that one was an absolute neces-
sity. It was because of the moral weight his awful panoply would liave
with the Bedouins. Then I said we didn't want anj g„!,nl at a 'l If
one fantastic vagabond could protect eight armed Christians and a uack of
;^ht'''M 1 T\ *''^''"""',«"f ly f'^^t detachment could ,>rotect them-
lookt tr " / I'" ^'T;' ^lonl^tfully. Tlum I said, just think how it
looks-thi u: how It would read, to self-reliant Americans, that we went
sneaking hrough this deserted wilderness under the protection of this
mascpiera-hng Arab, who would break his neck gettin-i out of the coun-
try It a man that was a man ever started after him. It was a mean low
degrading position. Why were we ever told to bring navy r^vdve^'
with us It we had to be protected at last by this infamous stu-s^ anS
I rode to the front and struck up an acquaintance with King Solomon-
m-all- .i,s-glory, and got him to show me his lingering eternitv of a -nin
It had a rusty liint lock ; it was ringed and barred and plated with silver
trom end to end, but it was as desperately out of the peri.endicnlar ,us
m-e the billiard cues of '49 that one finds yet in service in the a cient
nuiung camps of California. The mu.zle was eaten by the v .s of
swung from
.stirrup that
)ok(Hl, silver
e expression
Tlu; fringed
11(1 load the
to this chaos
cry jioverty
erwhcluiinj'
eiupiiry all
Saviour, the
ss it is, in
: Christians,
se desperate
ret?'-
simile, for
lived upon
'■en though
in it would
.'uid then,
proceeded
; when he
one guard
lute neces-
i'ould have
at a'l. If
d ii })ack of
)tect theni-
ink how it
t we went
-»n of this
the eoun-
nean, low,
revolvera
r-spangled
man only
Solonion-
:>f ii gun.
dth silver
licular sus
e ancient
e rust of
A DISTIXOflSIIKI) PANORAMA.
315
^ e Js^ ^ '^"^ tnagn.e-work, like the end of a hurnt-out stove-
k an o ; !' p-'^-'-l'l 1— d within-it M-as flaked with iron rust
ri.i If l: T '" "''''• ^'^^^'''^^^-^''l til. ponderous pistols and
snapped then. Ihey were rusty insid,., too-had not I.een loadeil for a
^lir ;;;;;■ , i 'T 'r';- 'f "' -~y--"t, .n.i reported to «,'
tie it- f Ii '' '''^^I'^I^-y^ this disn.autled fo-lress/ Itcanieout!
tJiui. Ihis fellow was a retainer of the .Sheik of Tiherias. He uas
source of (Jovern.uent revenue. Jle was to the Empire of Tiberias what
.t.Kl dia.ged heui for it. It was a lucrative source of tMuohuncnt and
I knew the warrior's secret n.w ; I knew the hollow v.nutv of hi.s
riLsty trumpery and .lespised his asinine con.placency. I told on hinT
=uul with reckless daring the cavalcade rodt straight ahe^ ht S
IKa-.Ious solitudes of the desert, and scorned his frauric warni.. f t e
inu dation and death that hovered about them on everv shle
Arrived at an elevation of twelve hundred feet alxne th<3 lake (I
ough to mention that the lake lies .six hundred feet below the level of
the Mediterranean-no traveler ever neglects to llourish that fra-nnent of
^ws in us letters,) as bald and unthrilUng a panoran.a as any h d^f
afioid, perhaps, was spread out befon, ns. Yet it was so crowded with
;^ e'sm T""''''^''"' '!■ ''" */" l"^^"'^ '^'''' ^''^^-^ '--^ -"«-^ ''l'0"t
like a^ iKivenient. Among tla. localities comprised in this view, were
Mount Hermon ; the hills that border Ce.iarea Philippi Dan the
t]u^t^ ^'^ !, .^^ Caperiuum; Bethsaida ; the suppo.sed .scenes of
its'^ .;';.'' fi'V^''?,'' \'- f''«'i"S-of the multitudes and the miracu-
loLsd aught of fashes; the declivity down which the swine ran to the
htl •"'n,': "f ;7^:"^'^ f-\^* "f the Jordan ; Safed, " the city set upon a
u 1, one of the^ four holy cities of the Jews, and the place where they
believe the real Mes.siah will appear when he comes to ii<leem the wor d^
heu la, t fight, and in a blaze of glory passed from the stage and ended
the r si^endul career forever ; Mount Tabor, the traditionaf scene of the
dolt :) "'^ '"" " 'i""*'^*^"'^ (iinjierfectly remembered, no
iti 'l,l''n. ''l''"'"'',";^r' "".t }'■'"? '='^"'"l "I'"n to Shan, iu the rirh .si„al,s of the \mmon.
tisli ^^ta■, ass,.„,l,lc,l a ,..,^^],ty host to Hght against .leptha, Ju.l'., of s. i ef Z
b,.,nK api.risj.d .,1 tluar apiuoac-li, j^atluuvd to|.-th.T tla- nu'n of r«n.. an ,■ v'e th m
r
316
LAST HATTLK or TUi; CUrSADKS.
We jo,2:go(l !il()ii,c; poiicofully over tlio ^'rait ciiniv.iii route fi-nin Diinirts-
cus to JcnMiSiilom and Egypt, jr.st Lnhia aiul otlioi- Hyriuii liiuiilots.
pcrcliod, in the mnuryiug stylo, u]>())i tlu* sTiiiiiiiit of stoop mounds and
hills, and fencod round about Avitli giant cactuses (tlio sign of worthless
laud), with iirickly (loars upon thfin like hams, i.nd camo at last to the
battlo-iicld of Ifattin.
It is a grand, irrogular i)l;itoau, and looks as if it might have been
created for a hatthvfiold. ITern the ])eorloss Saladin met the Cin-istian
host some seven hundred y(!ars ago, and broke their power in I'alestine
for all time to come. There had long been a truce between the opposing
forces, but, according to the truide-JJook, llaynaidd of (.'hatillon, Lord
of Kerak, broke it by phindeiing a Damascus caravan, and refusing to
give up either the merchants or their goixls when Saladin demanded
them. ^ This conduct of an insolent ])etty chieftain stung the Sultan to
the (piick, and he swore that he would slaughter llaynauld with his own
hand, no matter how, or wln.-n, or where ho found" him. U >th armies
])repared for war. \hnhv the weak King of .T(a-usalem w^as the very
flower of the Christian chivalry. lie foolishly com|)elled them to
undei
rsro
lo-
o' t'-Nhausting march, in the scorching sun, and then,
without water or other refreshment, ordered them to encamp in this
open plain. The splendidly mounted masses of Moslem soldiers sweitt
round the north end of Genessare^ burning and destroying as they came,
and pitched their camp in front of the o])posing lines. At dawn the
terrific fight began. Surrounded on all sides by the Sultan's swarming
battalions, the Christian Knights fought on without a hope for their
lives. They fought with desperate valor, but to no purpose ; the odds
of heat and numbers, and consuming thirst, were too great against them.
Towards tlu; middle of the day tlio bravest of their 'band cut their way
through the Moslem ranks, and gained the summit of a little hill, and
there, hour after hour, they closed around the banner of the Cross, and
beat back the charging squadrons of the enemv.
But the doom of the Chi-jstian jiower was sealed. Sunset found
Saladin Lord of I'alnstine, the Ciiristian chivalry strewn in heai)s upon
the field, and the King of Jerusalem, the Grand JIaster of the Templars,
and Raynauld of Chattillon, captives in the Sultan's tent. Saladin
treated two of the prisoners witli princely courtesy, and ordered refresh-
ments to be set before them. When the King handed an iced sherbet
to Chatillon, the Sultan said, " It is thou that givesb it to him, not I."
He reimunbered his oath, and slaughtered the hapless Knight of Chatillon
with his own hand,
I was hard to realize that this silent i»lain had once resounded with
martial music and trembled to the tramp of armed men. It Avas hard
to ]ieople this solitude with rushing columns of cavalry, and stir its
torpid pulses with the shouts of victors, the slirieks of the\vounded, and
the flash ot banner and steel above the surging billows of war. A
desolation is here that not even imagination can grace with the pomp of
life and action.
•MOUNT TAllOl!. gjy
;vho!. .out,., ,n..ehK.s" lawK^sli^-air:; K;i.iS,.!;""T::.. i^s.^sir
taiy and alone, a giant se.itincl al.ovo tli,- Plain of Ks.lru.l ,n ."^
s.n.e lonrteen In.nclml foot al.ovo the sun..wn.l //h ; : ;,. ^, '^
«,no s,.n.,..ie.al anU full of .nu. -a lu^nunrntVii ;; i- 'T ^^
IH'ak was almost iKMUiifnl. JMo v ^a 1 oil '"'" ."^ "^'"'^t
pictures .non l,y i(.df: Ski.tin;^ its ^ ' V^ "uiM fonn a cl.annn,.
ilcrmon.' ovw v.Ik.so summit J !■
maon,'- ov.. .1,,., ,,„..,,it j -„.,,t a'.iin;i,sir;?*(;;;i:;:; ' v"!r
fiUU'xis toi- tiiMMisiii'^of the vv-i(I,\rs ->.. .n,n |.\, 1 V „^^'""'
peiforn-ancos of Ikt Iv.ch m v V v" 'i' ? ' '^V,- '"""" ^'"" *''«
Hattin, traditional ".Arount of JV-.titu. ^ ' ,?;, ;-"'"" '•-^; 'I''l"i"'='k«l
To glance at the salient f\.vtur<..s of this laudseape throu.di tJ,.^ ni.ture
t".^
318
A WONDEHFUL OAIIDEN'.
spirits chscliargo jets of Wiitor on you fioni cvorv i)o,ssil>le direction, mi,l
wliere even tlio Howors you touch usKail you wUl. a sl.ower ; boatin<^ on
a subterraneiui lake amon<,' caverns and arclies royally draiied with
clustering stalactites, and passing out into open day upo'n anotlicr lake
which IS bordered witli sloping hanks of grass and gav ^vith i.atrieian
barges tliat swim at audior in the shadow of a miniature marbh, tenndo
that rises out of the clear water and ghisses its wjiite statues, itsrich cai.itals
and fluted crdumns in tlie traiupiil depths. So, from marvel to marvel vou
have drifted on, thinking all tJie time that the one last seen must be
the chiefest. And, verily, the chiefest wonder is reserved until the last
but you do not see it until you step a.hore, and passing tlirough a wilder-
ness of rare flowers, collected from every coriu-r of the earth', you stand
at the door of one more mimic Unnph. Right in this place the artist taxed
Jiis genius to the utmost, and fairlv oi)ened the gates of fairlv land You
Jook through an un])retending pane of glass, stained vellow ; the Hrst thin-
you see IS a mass of cpuvering foliage, h-n short steps l)efore you, in the
midst of which IS a ragged opening like agateway-a thingthatis commou
enougrh in nature, and not apt to excite susj)icions of a deei. human design
—and above tlie bottom of the gateway, project in the most careless way?a
few broad tropic leaves and brilliant flowers. All of a sudden, throuo-h this
bright, bold gateway, you catch a g]imi)se of the faintest, softest, richest
picture that ever graced the dream of a dying 8aint, since John saw the-
JNew Jerusalem glimmering above the clouds of Heaven. A broad sweep
1 f/'^r' /if''*'*' ''''^'' careening sails; a sharjs. jutting cape, and a
lofty lighthou.se on It; a sloping lawn beliind it ; beyond, a portion of
the old 'city of i.alaces," with its j-arks and hills and stately mansions-
beyond these, a prodigious mountain, with its strong outlines sharnlv
cut against ocean and sky ; and over all, vagrant sjireds aii.l flakes of
cloud, floating m a sea of gold. The ocean is gold, the city is gold the
meadow, the mountain, the sky-everything is golden-rich; and mellow,
and dreamy as a vision of Paradise. No artist could put upon canvas
Its entrancing beauty, and yet, without the yellow glass, and the carefully
contrived accident of a framework that cast it into enchanted distant'
and shut out from it all unattractive features, it was not a picture to fall
into ecstacies over. Such is life, and the trail of the .seri.ent is over
us all. ^
There is nothing for it now but to come back to old Tabor, thou<rh the
subject IS tiresome enough, and I can not stick to it for wanderin-'off to
scenes that are pleasanter to remember. I think I will skip, any how
Ihero IS nothing about Tabor (except that we concede that it was the
scene of the Transfiguration,) but some gray old ruins, stacked u.) there
in all ages of the world from the days of stout Gideon and parties that
flourished thirty ce^ituries ago to the fresh yesterday of Crusmling times.
It has Its Greek Convent, and the coffee there is good, but never a
splinter of the true cross or bone of a hallowed saint to arrest the idle
thoughts of worldlings and turn them into graver channels. A Catholic
church IS nothing to me tliat has no relics.
oction, and
boating on
ajunl \vitli
other lake,
I imtrioian
■bit) t('nij)Ip
cli ca]>itiil.s
iinrvcl you
n must lie
1 tho last,
lia wildor-
you stand
rtisttaxod
ind. You
iii'st tiling
oil, in tilt"
is coinnion
lan design
ess way, a
rough this
st, richest
:i saw the
oad 8 wee] I
le, and a
portion of
mansions:
s sharplv
1 flakes of
gold, the
d mellow,
on canvas
I carefully
1 distance
ire to fall
t is over
llOMi: (H- DKHOKAH, TIIK PKOIMIKTKSS. .3)9
The plain of Hsdraelon -" the battle-liel.I of tlie nations" -onlv sets
one to dreaming of Joshua, and IJenhadad, and Sau , nd ( ilon
Tamerhuje, ^ inered, Cuuirde Lion, and Saladin ; thewa no K ^if
iT' H' ' '•'';■•• r^ ^•■'I">!cou-for they all fought here, if' tl^t
magic ot the n.oonhght could summon from the ,.nues nf f„r".t n
cj^r^unes and many lands the countless myriads that hate 1 a IM^ ' i^
wide, far-reachu.g floor, and array them in the thousand strair^, co^ unu^s
of their humlrediKitioualities, and send the va.t host sweeiS^ W X
luc an age to see the phant..m pageant. J!ut the magic of the niooi;
ght isa vanity and a fraud; and whoso puUeth hislrus i^ t S
suiter sorrow an,I <hsapp<Hntmeiu-
l)own at the foot of Tabor, and just at the edge of the storied Pliin
ot J'.sdraelon, IS th<. insigniticant villa-e of Deb.n-ith w],..r,. n, l
prophetess of Israel, livech It ,s j ust likt^^ ^L.^'S" ' """'''
'•^U
.0
^:^^
lougli the
ing off to
my liow.
t was the
up there
rties that
iig times.
never a
the idle
Catholic
CHAPTER L.
W^] .losc.-.„<l,.,l fVom xMcunt Tal.or, tTossf..! a .le.'p ravin... an.l lol-
V V lom;Ui Inlly, rocky road to Nazavctli .Hstant two ],u„rs AH
(Us ancos in tlu, East arc nu-asurod by l.ours. >w)t inil.-s. A ..-oo,! hoTso
will wall; tiMvo nnlcs an liour ov.-r nearly any kin.I of a road ;' therefore
an^Iiuur, hero, always stands for tlirco niilcs. ' '
Tills motliod of coniimtation is l>otlirrsoin.' and annovin..- ; and until
<.no,uvts tlmrou.irldy accnstonir,! to it. it carries no intdii^.n.oo to liisn.ind
untd 1.0 has Htoi.jKHl an.l translated the pa-an hours int.'. Christian n.ilev
just as ).eo].lo do witli the spoken words of a forei-u lan-ua..v thev are
ac.,uanited with, but not familiarly (.u.u.i^d. to catoli the mcanin- ii, -t
moment. Distances traveled by human feet arc also estimated bv huiii^
and minutes, thou-h I do not know what the ba^u, of the calculation is
In Constantinople you ask, '' Ilv^v far is it to the Consulate V ,,nd thev
amswer, " about ten minutes." " How far is it to the Llovds' A-encv /"
(,)uarttr of an hour." " PEuw far is it to the lower brid-o V '^ ^- Four
ininute.s. I c;uinot bn positiv<> about it, but I think that there, when a
man orders a pair of ].antaloons, he .says hi^ wants them a.niarterofa
minute m tJie It'i^s and nine kocoikIs around the wai.st
Two hours iVom Tabor to Nazareth-an.l as it was a.n uncommonly
narrow, crooked trail, M'.niecessarily met all the camel trains and jackass
caravans betweei, Jericho an.l Jacksonville in that i.articular place and
nowhere el.se. J lie donkeys do not niiitter so much, because thev ire so
small that you can jump your hor.s(! over them if he is an animal .'.f si.irit
but a camel is not jumpable. A camel is as tall as anv ordinarv dwell-
ni:,'-lunise in Syria- which is to ,say a camel is fr.)m one to two and
Homctimes nearly three feet taller than a ,-ood-size<l man. In this vv
ot the country his load is oftenest in the .shan;,' of colossal sacks-one on
•■ae.i side. Uy and his car-o tak(> uj. as much room as a carria-e. Think
ot meeting this stylo of obstruction in a narrow trail. The camel would
no t,n.u out f\n; a king lie stalks serenely along, bringing his cushioned
stilts forward with the long, regular swing of a pendulum, and whatever
IS in the way nn.st get out of the way peaceably, or be wiped out forcibly
,1^,0 bulky sacks. It was a tiresome rule to us. and perrectlv exhaus^
ng to t he hors<,s. Wo were compelled to jump over upwards Jf eighteen
J uiKlivd donkeys and only one pcnvson in the partv was un.seated less
than sixty tiujes by the camels. This sc;m.s like a powerail stat.nuent
OROTTO OF THE ANyexCATION.
321
•SfHHl liorso
soft-footed ca^^ol Hteak ^VMr 1 hn "^'/'"; f l"'^''*"'' .*'''"' ^'^ '"^vo a
cold, flabby „ndor.lip. I :Z:!\^'Z\Z^ 'TZ t ""' 7'"' '''
(h-ooprng over Ins Huddle iu a biwn .stmlv tT. ^ I'oys, ^vho was
majestic apparition hoverin-. above hhnl'n 1 "!•'"'' "1* '"'' '■^''' ^''"
out of thowiy, b„t the mol ,t ,,.b! ' !";'•'", ^'■''"^•"' "'^"^''t^ **> ««fc
before l.o acco.npH I f iT Tl i?t ' t'lln '".'^ '"f '"'" "'^ *''« «''"'•''^"•
journey. ' '"' '"^"^ *'"' «'>1>^ l'l'-^'i»'"^t '"oi.lc.nt of tlu,
invisiblo dangers wili;;,." .'^ ^r^^]. \^^«-J; ^--'"^ -ardin. ort"
paid his master, but that couut.l as\ thi^T; ^'x hif a t^T'' '"^'
or you, here, and auotlier man clioosos to hob. ],^ ^ "' ^"^ '""""'
both. They do nothing, whatov • v tL ?t nv f ^'"'J'"'" ^l'^ '"^ 1^">'
l.rised these people to hear the w y of ' ] I J i l' T'' ^'"^'^ ■^"^-
moue^ ami Mont price:' If I e .nnne rs H 1 f *^ * '"" " ""'^^'^"^
this country have changed sii ce tlo S vi ; ' ''?.I''^l''f' o^' t'^^ customs of
steps beloV the ground lelq.u/;,o^T'* ^^'^? 't ^"'^''^^ ^^ <'*'^«<^'^
with tapestry ^^^^X^rt^.^:U'^'^^^f:^^^^ out
by a cross, in the n.arble floor, under the aUu w ! "i -i .rV^l'^t ■"'"'vo^l
made forever hoV by the feet of t In vf.l V ^"^^'-'^^'^^'^ted as the place
have made it their loftiest ambition tr.ch re iSn? ^T-'' ""^ '^'^
a .spot wlioso history is familiar tnlj.l ^'"'^"'f .,7i"th'Jy on their can^•as ;
city, and obscure We oT he ?u theirs ^ '^«"^^*^' '^"^l
whid. myriads of m "nl"L toiltr f t rt-lu'c^ ;^ •^^"*
woul.l consider it a priceless priv le" o ool- unon if ' """"^\ *^ ''?'
which the angel stepped, but could not f^ I i4 v4l T fe ^nlb' th 'T't
hnow are creatures of unstable fancv— thev wJll^^f A- "? *' ''* ^
ai'i
•VOTKD (iUOTTOKH IN (IKNKllAI.
They sliowcd lis a In-okoii ;,'niiiito pillur, depondin;,' from tlic roof,
wliidi tlifiV Miiil Wiis Iiiifkcd in two hy tlio Moslem coikiiktois of Xiizar-
etli, ill till) viiiu l;o|)(! of imllini,' down tlio Hiinctiiaiy. I!ut tlic pillar
n'liiaiucd iiiiraculonsly suspfiidcd in the air, and, niisuppovtcd itwlf,
Hupportfd tlii'in, Mid still .supports tlic roof. iJy di\i(ling this statonicnt
lip anioii^' •■ii,'lit. it was found not dillicult to l)c'lic\o it.
'J hcso yiftud 1 atin monks novor do anythinj,' l.y halves. Tf tlipy wore
to sliow you the JJrazcn sorptnt that was elevated in the v.ilderno.ss, you
fould dej;enil upon it they had on hand the pjlo it was elevated' on
also, and even the hulc it stood in. They have got the "Grotto" of the
Aiiiiuneiution liere ; and just as convenient to it as one's throat is to his
month, they ha\«' also the Viigin's Kitehen, and even her sittiiig-iooni,
■wlure she and .Joseph Avatclied the infant .Saviour jday with liebrew
toy,-, eighteen hundred years ago, All under ono roof, and all clean,
spacious, coniforlahle "grottoes." It seems curious that personages
iiilimately connected with the Holy Family always lived in grottot^s —
in Nazareth, in JjctJilehem, in imperial Eiihosus — and yet nobody else in
their day and generation thought of doing anything of the kind. Jf
they ever tlid, their grottoes ain all gone, and I suppose w«- ought to
-wonder at the jxculiar mai'A el of the preservation of these I sjJCiik of.
■\Vlien theVii'gin lied i'rom Heiod's wrath, she hid in a grotto in Jlethlehem,
and the same is there to this day. The slaughter of the innocents in JJelh-
lelam was done in a grotto; the Saviour was born in a grotto— both are
fihown to ])ilgrim8 yet. It is exceeduigly strange that tlie.so tremendous
events all ha]>peiied in grottos — and exceedingly fortunate, likewise,
beciin.'e th<' strongest houses must crnnihle to ruin in time, but a grotto
in ll'(! living rock will last forever. It is an im}>osture — this grotto
Ktiifi— but it is one all men ought to thank the Catholics for. A\'herever
the" ferret out a lost locality made holy by .some yerii)tural event, thev
8tiaightway build a massive— almost imjierisliable — church there, anil
prp.-erve the memory of that locality for the gratitication of future genera-
tions. If it had ))eeii left to Protestants to do this most worthy work,
we would not even know when; Jesusalem is to-day, and the man who
couUl go and put liis finger on Nazareth would bo too Avise for this Avorld.
The world owes the Catholics its good will even for the happy rascalitv
of hewing out these bogus grottoes in tho rock ; for it is infinitely more
satisfactory to look at a grotto, where peojde have faithfully believed for
centuries that the Virgin once lived, than to have to imagine a dwelling-
place for her somewhere, iuiywhere, nowhere, loose and at large all over
this town of Nazareth. There is too large a scope of country. The ima"'-
iuation can not work. There is no one particular sjiot to chain vour
eye, rivet your interest, and make you think. The memory of the Pil-
grims can not perish Avhile Plymouth Rock remains to us. The old
monks are Avise. They know liow to drive a stake through a pleasant
tradition that Avill hold it to its place forever.
We visited the places Avhere Jesus Avorked for iifteeu years as a car-
I)eiiter, and Avhere he atteini)ted to teach in the synagogue and Avas
rJL(JHIM-I'l,A(JrAIMZIN(l.
::-2:\
nothing of ti.at ki,;:i. tI ;kh\,.f ;:;;:;;"; '•"' ^''" '"-'^'^^^ i---"'^
J)> tlie .lozeii and ksc'i. ni, a riotous lau'l.tcr and skv In-kin. T v
Ano.hor pilgn.u came alon- presentlv, an.l said : " 01)sonc tl.nt +.,11
£^;;is:i;,l^'^^ '''-'' ^^^^'--'^'- ^--^^'^"- on^X^
homelv'^ U'."^'" '' "f , *'"' '1" ^^ ■'^''•'^•^ ' ^''« i« "«t beai.tiful, she is
Th^i.i' ' ?rf"\ '"""°''' ^ ■^•^•""*' '•"^' •'^J'^" i« '-'^ther boisterous ■'
Ihe thi d and last pilorin, moved l.y, l.efore Ion'^ and he siid " Ah
^.^tall, graceful ,iri: .hat Madonna-like gra;ef„lLer:^^,ue;t!;;
The verdicts were all in. If ^v>is finie jn«- f- ' i i , ..
324
" NOMADIC LIFE " LITERATURK.
"After we were in tlic saJdli', wc rodu down to tho spring to liavo a last look at
the women of Nazereth, who were, as a class, much the prettiest that we had seen iu
the Last. As we approached the crowd, a tall girl of nineteen advanced toward
^Iinam and ollered her a cup of water. Her movement was graceful and Queenly.
\V e exclaimed on the spot at the Madonna-like beauty of her countenance. Whitely
was suddenly tl:irstj% and begged for water, and drank it slowly, with his eves over
the top ot the cup, fixed on her large black eyes, which gazed on him rjuite'as curi-
ously as he on her. Then Moreright wanted water. She gave it to him and he
managed to spill it so as to a.* for anotlier cup, and by the time she came to me
she saw through tlie operation ; her eyes were full of fun as she looked at me. I
laughed outright, and she joined me in as gay a shout as ever country maiden in
old Orange county. I wisheil for a picture of her. A Madonna, whose face wiis a
portrait ot that beautiful Nazareth girl, would be a ' thing of beauty' and ' a iov
torevcr.' " j j j
That is the kind of gruel -wliicli has been served out from Palestine
for ages. Commend me to Fenuimore Cooper to find beauty iu the
Indians, and to Grimes to find it in the Arabs. Arab men are often line
looking, but Arab women are not. We can all believe tli:it the Virgin
Mary was beautiful ; it is not natural to think otherwise; but does" it
follow that it is our duty to find beauty in these present women of
Nazareth ?
I love to quote from Grimes, because he is so dramatic. And because
he is so romantic. And because he seems to care but little whetlier he
tells the truth or not, so he scares the reader or excites his envy or hia
admiration.
He went through this peaceful land with one hand forever on his
revolver, and the other on his pocket-handkerchief. Always, when he
was not on the point of crying over a holy place, lie was on the point of
killing an Arab. More surprising things happened to him in Palestine
than ever happened to any traveler here or elsewhere since Slunchausen
died.
_ At Beit Jin, where nobody had interfered with him, he crept out of
his tent at dead of night and shot at what he took to be an Arab Ivinw
on a rock, some distance away, planning evil. The ball killed a woltT
Just before he fired, he makes a dramatic picture of himself— as usual'
to scare the reader : '
" Was it imagination, or did I see amoving object on the surface of the rock 2
11 It were a man, why did he not now drop me / He had a beautiful shot as [ stood
out 111 iny black boornoose against the wliite tent. 1 had the sensation of an enteriu"
bullet 111 my throat, breast, brain." °
Ileckless creature.
Riding toward Genessaret, they saw two Bedouins, and " w© looked to
our jtistols and loosened them quietly in our shawls," etc. Always cool.
In Samaria, he charged up a hill, in the {\ice of a volley of stones j he
fired into the crowd of inen who threw them. He says :
' losi
vi^ruriimctii of inii.ivssiiig llic Arabs with the perfection of Amc
rican and English weaijoiis, and the danger of attack
I think the lesson of tliat ball not lost
mgany one of the armed Franks.
1 1 ! 'ifit I
lust look at
had seen in
iced toward
lid Qnei'iily.
'. Whitdy
lis (.'ves over
uitc as curi-
liiii and he
caine to me
at niL'. I
' niiiideii in
lace Wiis a
and 'a joy
Palestine
ity in the
often line
ho Virgin
lit th)o.s it
women of
(1 because
hether he
ivy or hia
■cr on his
when he
e ])oint of
Palestine
mcluuiseu
;pt out of
vixh I vine:
:d a wolf.
-as usual,
:' the rock ?
t as [ stood
111 euteiiug
looked to
\ays cool,
tones; he
in of Ainc-
ed Franks,
"NOMADIC LIFK" LITERATURE. 325
rail S"td'^™ '"' ""■* ''""" of A™" """^te.. a ,ieco of J.l,
Perfectly fearless, this man
feet" nt pv.,.l T,„,r„ r T ' . , ■ "S S"""!'. '"» I'o™ sti-idiiiK " tl.irtv
to ,,,trZt s In' " :;;;;'„!;r'ru ' i 'r- '""^ -'""»-■"■--»
compamUotlnr '^°"' "' H"""""!* »« i.mgnifioant
.oo.ea o;„ J:Ve"i;;;i,S4Tr,i;r ,r^-^^
upliis loct, while a th rd ai 1 .n t] lel^^^^^^^
uhixzed through the air a eve v tmke Poo J o.tn" l?'''°'-''^^'^' '^""'■'^'''■^''* "'"*
and Nania the^Second (niother an S i- ot L^." ' S ««""3-. '>"<! ^ama
wa, in,', now embracing my knees and then W ?l\;-\ Im,! 1" '^'r,^'--"'"' ""'i *
made the air ring witlf cries louder tla M.n a' Vv.. Vm f'' ™*''''';' °,"*f^'^'
on his knees to relent, and last of all 1 t,, . tif^ , ^^^'".^ '^'•* '-•^'"i^ and asked me
house and had been loudest hriik din.m:! f . T""'^ l""^ '"*** ''' *'^'''l-''"g '" their
to have mercy on the Slow!" ^'-""""''^'°"« "'at niorning-hesought tlie Howajji
enL;'d!?S'n't.;'S:^.''^;5':'!'ft X/1"^,'} ^'""rr- ^^ ^^ *'- »>-*
about forty inches long and taTjerini mill ' ""'''" "« .In^'i'irubher, usually
it administers a blow ?hic leavlll «5 ^l r '" "" '^'-■'' "^ .'i'"""*"' *° -^ 1'°'"*.
same author. "^ """^ •^'" '""' ■ ~'^<^'^''' Life in Egypt, by the
pp.
t I'
32G
" XOMADIC LIFE " LITERATUKE.
As Iiiiouiu-(l \ii.ssuf once inun; liff,'<,'tMl me to interfere ami have muroy on
them, but 1 lookeil around at tlic dark faces of the crowd, and I couldn't find one
drop of inty ni my lieart for them. "
He closes his picture witli a rollicking burst of humor which contriUits
" ■" ""' " ' " " ' 'ler children.
finely with the grief of the mother and
One more paragraph :
" "lien once more I bowd my liead. It is no shame to ]iavo wejit in Palestine I
wept, when 1 saw Jerusalem, I wept when I lay in the starlight at Jk-thlelieni, I wept
on the l)lesfed shoi'es of Galilee. My hand was no less firm on the rein, my Iiu4i-
did not tremble on the trigger of my pistol when I rode with it in mv ri"ht ha^id
along the shore ot the blue .sea" (weeping.) " Jly eye was not dimml.d by those
tears nor my heart m aught weakened. Let him who would sneer at my emotion
close this yo ume here, for he will find little to his taste in my jourueyiugs in the
iloly Jiantl. ^ o
He never bored but he .struck water.
I am aware that this is a pretty voluminous notice of Mr. Grimes'
book. However, it is proper and legitimate to speak of it, for "Nomadic
Life m Palestine" is a rejiresentative book — the representative of a class
of Pale.stine books— and a criticism upon it will serve for a criticism
upon them all. And since I am treating it in the comprehensive capa-
city of a representative book, I have taken the liberty of giving to both
book and author fictitious names. Perhaps it is in better taste,°invhow
to do this. ' . >
CHAP TEH LI.
ATAZEISETH is Avo.iderfnlly iutcrosting l.oeuu.so tlie town h„s an ai •
L^ about It of l.em- i.recisely as Jesus loft it, au.l ouo finds liin.self
.saving, all he time, " Tlie boy Jesus has stood in this doorwav-fms
pla3-ed m that street-lias touched these stones witli his hau.ls— lias
nuubled over these chalky hills." Whoever shall write the hovliood S
Jesus ingeniously will make a book which will possess a vivid' interest
for the young and oI<l alike. I judge so from the gr.^ter interest we
fo.m.l m N,j.areth than any of our speculations upon Capernaum .uuf ti:
Galilee, to frame more than a vague, far-awav idea of fhe majestic
Jr'ersonago who walked upon the crested waves a's if they had been solid
earth, and who touched the dead and they rose up and spoke. I read
among "ly notes now, with a new interest, some sentences from an
edition of 1G21 of the Apocryphal New Testament. [Extract.]
"Clin.st, kissed liy a biulc iiimk; dumb by koivimvis dues Iht \ I , , ., ,;.i
curoabr u^ i- ,t in?',; ,^<'r"l'™-.t,.].ed andtunu.d into a ami., niin.ulnuslv
fia V ." ,? . ^''f'^%'\S''-''^ -Tosopli „u order Im- a tlaon... .los,.,,]. L'u nitt'v
othm;, and Uiiigs it to its proper diiiR'asioiis. ^ ^''"
tliapterlfl. Jesus eliarged ^vitli tlawvuK' .i bnv fi-,,.,, tl,. ,. f .• i
bSis it lu>ui ' "' ^''''"■' "'" '""■"^■"'--'y g.^the|.s the .atcr i,i bis u.aurK. and
wlif £,rhU f;S'::^&^'"^"^ ^° ^^'^^ ^- '^"^-' -^ *>- -l-olmnster going to
Further on in this quaint volume of rejected gospels is an epistle of
St. Clement to the Corinthians, which was used in the churches and
considered genuine fourteen or fifteen hundred vears a^^, In h
account of the fabled pluenix occurs : ' o ■ ^ ^
tim
"1. Let us consider that wonderful tvpe of the rcsurreetioi. wbi,.l. ,•
Lastcrn countries, tbat is to .say, in .Ar.ibia. rcsuntuioti, \\ indi i
s se.-)i ni fiio
328
SYKIAy Tl'liXPlKE.
rr;;£]J!u ih::ta !:r,K •Hi;;;;:;,*;:;;,;::"''''^ '' ^''^' ^-"' '-^ ''-"^ «'-* it retu,n.i
in MkI^S.!' '"""^''"' '"'^^ *^''''" ^" ""^''"^^ '^^^ punctuality, especially
tlihi!!^ |v^;i"''*''V^^'f "- '" ?^ "^^'"'^^^ «f «'^ «'^viour contain „mnv
t lings AN Inch seen, frivolous and not Avortli preserviii!.. A lai-o narfc af
tljo reina„„„g portions of the book read like ,.ood Scripture, wC-J^^
^^^.t r';:;^:Tr? 'f'^l^^\--\^oh..e been rejected, because it "o
Untd Sta^esf ' '' '" '^'' '^''''''^ ''''' '^ Congresses of the
I have set these extracts down, as T found them. Every Avhere an,on<^
he cathedrals of France and Italy, one finds traditions o pei'so ZS
?ts i" " 'p:': ll ''" ""^''If'-^'l of niiracles that are not LntioiS
n its pases. But they are all in this Apocryphal New Testament and
hough they have been n;led out of our modern Bible, it is claimed tl a
tliey were accepted gospel twelve or fifteen centnrie. ago, and ranked
ns high m credit as any One needs to read this book before he visfts
tnSit ™' ' '''^'"-^'■'^'' ^^'i^l' «'«i^- t^-ea«"ves of tabooed and forgoUeu
Ar^ilTsir^r' w'"/'l' ^""'J' T'' ^^' "* Nazareth-another invincible
Aiab Guard. ^Ve took our last look at the city, clinging like a white-
1^:^ rt " r* '" *^" ';'"""^^' ""1 •"' -S-l't o'clock in the nori i ^^
departed ^\e dis.nonnted, and drove the horses down a bridle-path
as sttn "tl T '""^ r ""''"'''i '^^ "" ^•"•^-^'=^^- ' -^'^^'^ I ^-o.:lz
t^l v^^ tlowiuN-ard sweep of a rain-bow, and which I believe to be
IsVnZJrT'j '" i"' t^^e geography, except one in the Sandwich
to ok 1 Ir"'- ^ ''''"''"■ ,^^^*'"' "^ *'"« "'^^™^^ r««^ tl^e l'oi-«e had
oXT. r r?^'"^""''''"!^" '^'''"' '^'^' '™^^ then dro, his fore-feet
o ei the edge and down something more than half his own height. This
^■vtll'l^ ""'" 'T *'^"i ?''T^' "^"^^ ^'" -"' P^i"*^'^ "I' t«^v-ard the
Lichen IaT' '" S'^^-V""\*^": '^PP««i-«"^'^ of preparing to stand on
', !,rLt T'"'"'"^*. ook digniii.d in this position." Woaccom-
p.-.^odthelongdesccnt at last, and trotted aoiuss tlie great Plain o
HOME OF THE GREAT WITCH.
329
Some of us will l.e sliot before we finish this pilin-ima-e Tlie i.ilrrvin,,
mul Nonuulic Life" and keep themselves in 1 oonstanfsta of Quix-
otic heroism, l^.ey have their hmuls on their j.istols all the time ad
take aim at Ledonins who are not visible, and draw their knives and
e^-d w':^ nr "' "*'"' ''"^"''" ;^^" ^'^ "•^^ ^^'^*- ^ "- - ^^X
pen] ahs.ivs for these spasms are sudden and irrco-ular, and of course I
cannot tell when to be getting out of the way. If I \un accide t'llv
^^M:.'r *"-'tr«-- of these iiianticfi.enz;e:::?te S;
§ e^.,'tTf/l "''•/"""' ^'^ "f;"^;''^'^^l t« ^"^«^ver as an accessary befm-e
would be , "-^ PT '™"^'' ^f' '-^^iiheraie aim and shoot^at a man,
kle . ° '"f l"'"l'«^--l^'^^«"s« tliat man would not' be in anv
da.igei , but those random assaults are what I object to. J do not wish
to see any more places like Esdraolon, where the gronnd is level and peo-
ple can gallop. It puts melodramatic nonsense into the pilgrin^'s he ,ds
lif ^n^Vl '" ""' ^« Jogging along stupidly in the sun, and thinking
about .some lung ever so far away, here they come, at a stormy -^allon
«pm.rmgand whooping at tho.se ridgy old sjre-backed plugs, t if Q!
oti Jun St *^'"; '^'Z^^'-^^^' "^^^ ■"' '^'^y '''^'^■' '>y' «"t c°omes a littlJ
potato-gun ol a revolver, there is a startling little pop, and a small i.ellet
goes singing hrough the air. Now that f have beg mi this pi n^ nuS I
jniend o go through with it, though, sooth to say, nothing but th nit
drnTmi'l^' "'-^'^'^r '"^ '»y I'"Vl.o.e up to the present time. I
dnu n I^.e^l«"in«.-I am not afraid of them ; because neither Be-
iTfl 7 /"'r '^'"'"' Ji'^ve shown any disposition to harm us, but
1 clo teel afraid of my own comrades
Arriving at the furtliest verge of 'the Plain, we rode a little way up a
Jiill and found ourselves at Endor, famous for its witch. Her descend-
ants are there yet. They were the wildest horde of half-naked sava"es
I^^S:i/T^^''^T. Tl-V -varmed out of mud bee-hives ; out%
^k out nV ■^'"^"''^' ^"^i pattern; out of gaping caves under shelving
am silence of the place was no more, and a begging, screeching, shoutin-
nob were struggling about the horses' feet^'and blocking" the way
MW if .v-e "'''^rV ''"t'^l-esh ! howajji, bucksheesh:" It w s
Magd. a ov ex- again only here the glare from the infidel eyes was fierce
and fu 1 of hate. The population numbers two hundred and fifty and
more than half the citizens live in caves in the rock. Dii-t, degradation
and Debnrich now. Endor heads the list. It is worse than any Indiin
can^pood^.. The hill is barren, rocky, and forbidding. N?sp ;' o
f X? .^'"^t';?"'^ «"1J' '^"f t^-- This is a fig-tree, which maintai^^s
a piecarious footing among the rocks at the mouth of the dismal cavern
^e occupied by the^v^ritable Witch of Endor. In this cavern, tradi^
Se A^i !r!! ' ?' f^'Ii^' T^ i ^-^'i^nght, and stared and trembled,
£ null' ?T f ' *'f *^\'""'''' '''''^'^'^ =""«"« t'^« J^i"«. '"id out of
tlie mids. of fire and smoke the spirit of the dead prophet rose and con-
■M'
330
NAIX.
fronted l,in> S.nl l.ul cro|.t to this placv in the darkness, xvhih. Iuh
aun3 .slept, to Icuni what fate awaited him iu the morrow's battle He
went away a sad man, to meet disf,'raoe and death
Aspriug trickles out of the I'ock in the gloomy recesses of the cayeni
and we were t arsty. Th. citizens of Endor objected to our go . [
lluae. They do not n.nul dirt ; they ,lo not ,nind ra^s ; they do°„ot
maul yernnn ; they do not mind barl,avous ignorance and s^ya-^ery • they
<lo not m.n.I a misonable degree of staryation, Imt they do "'like 'to be
Pme and lu.ly before their god, whoever he may be, and^herefore thev
shudder and giw almost pale at the idea of Christian lips pollutin.' a
s].nng whos<, waters nmst descend into their san.ctified gullets We
had no w.uiton ,les,re to wound eyen fh.ir feelings or trample ui.on their
prejudices, but we were out of water, thus early iu the day, and were
^"S'tT?"'"?- ^S-l-^t"'- ^--> ='-' "-'1- these circmn
st.mc s that 1 fran.ed an ai.honsm which has ali'cady become celebrated
1 siuU ; ^ ec<^ssity knows uo law." We went in and drank.
\egot away from the noisy wretches, finally, dropping them in smiads
n^iduniplesas we hied oyer the hills-the aged fir^t, tJie infants liext,
only left v.Jien they had secured the last possible piastre in the way of
bucksheesli. V "'^
In an hour we readied Nain, where Christ raised the widow's son to
lile. IS a 111 IS Magihda on a small scale. It has no population of any
coiisequence Witlun a hundred yards of it is the original grayeyard!
foiaught I know ; the tombstones lie flat on the ground, which is Jewish
fashion m Syria. I belieye the Moslems do not allow them to haye
3f f •. " 'If • /\ ^^^"'^''" Si-«ve is usually roughly plastered oyer
Z ,r i r' '^S'"f '''"i "* '"^' ''"-^ ''' "1'^-^°''* I'-jection which is
shaped into e.xceeduigly rude attempts at ornamentation. In the cities
tnnilli" \7 -''^'If'T''' "' '' -"^^''^ '''* '^"^ '^ *^"' «lender marble
tombstone, ehiborately lettered, gilde<l and ])ainted, marks the burial
«S 'T 1 ' 1 ' •'^"^•!"<^">^t^^.l ''y •'' t"''l^''"> «ud carved and shaped as to
signity the dead man's rank in life.
They .showed a fragment of ancient wall which they said was one side
of the gate out of which the widow's dead son was being brought so
many centuries ago when Jesus met the procession :
" Xow when he cainu nigh to tlio gate of the city, beliohl there was q den.] mnn
"Ami wh.Mi tlie I.or,l saw her, he had compassion on her, aiul .sai.l, Weep not
hes^rY:i:;;;^':;.CV:^;:'m;t:^^i^^;'.-'*'^'-^' '-^''^^^'^- --^ «^^'" -^
hi.snfothe,r''"*'''''''''''^''^"l'' '""^ '"■«'"' '" '^l'''"^^- ^^"'l ''« 'l'--live>'=''l I'i'" to
,.rl,7'r •*''■''"'■"""''''"'''■'' "'"''^'- ^^"'' tluy gloriKe,! Go.l, saying, That a cri-eat
prophet IS nseu up among us ; ar.l That God Imth vi.sited his peoi'lf." "
^i^l'^fu "'"'• J'^ ^^^'^'^l "P"'' ^^'"^ "P°* '^'^"^-^^ tradition says ^vas occu-
pied by the widotvs d^velImg. Two or tliree aged Arabs sat about its
ORIENTAL SCENES.
S vvliile luH
'iittle. He
the Ciiveni,
r going in
K'v do not
'■iovy ; they
like to be
•efore tliey
)olhiting a
llets. We
upon tlieir
and were
'se circuni-
^clebrated.
I in.S(|uads
ants next,
mile, and
le v/ay of
iv'h son to
m of any
;i'aveyard,
is Jewish
1 to have
teied over
wliich is
the cities
;r marble
:he burial
ped as to
i one side
■ought so
dead man
1 peoiile of
yj) not.
till. And
id him to
at a great
vas occu-
bout its
331
door. ^\ e entered and the pilgrims l,roke specimens from the founda-
tion wa Is, though they had to touch, and cvin step, „pou the ' m yi I
carpets to do it. It was ahnost the san.e as breaking pieces fr .7 ^
Sin ?V IT .°^'' ^^'- ^^" '''^' ^■"'''-''^ "l'«" ^-^^^ praying mats
^Mlh booted feet-a thing not done by any Arab-was t. inllicl ain
upon men M-ho had not offended us^n anyway. 8up J arty of
armed foreigners were to enter a village church in Ami ica a id ^Lk
ornan.ents from the altar railings for curiosities, and climb up ad wa k
upon the Bible and the pulpit cushions ! Howe^;l, the cases a eS^nt
a "tSn of r '"''"" "''^ '""^'^"^ '^ ''''■ ^'"^^'-^^- «*J-^- «"ly the iT^:
lanation ot a pagan one. "^ ^
We descended to the Plain again, and halted a moment at a well-of
Abraham's time, no doubt. It was in a .lesert place. It was walled
nnnLrof rilT '''T' ^^'^^^^'l-'-'.--! l--y Wioks of stone, aftel the
m. iiei of Bible pictures. Around it some camels stood and others
kn It. There was a group of sober little <loukeys, with naked, dusky
S'dls ""t"'"'' ' n"'^ ^'"'l'?' ^^i«'"» -tride Jh'eir rumps, or pnlUng
then tails. Tawny, black-eyed, bare-footed maids, arrayed in raos and
adorned with brazen arndets an.l pinchbeck ear-rings, we Je poisin: "water
jars upon their heads, or drawing water from the well. A riock of een
so'ttit'/l r"*"1^;"*'7 ^^"l'^"^''^^^ *« «" *^- ^-"--^I stones with water
•so that the> might drink-stones Avhich, like those that walled the well
were worn smooth and deej.ly creased by the dialing chins of 1 undml
generations of thirsty animals. Picturesque Arabs sa" upon tl e gro in
S'Slir;: n r 7 ""^'"^ *^"T !«"»-*— 'I <^l'il>o,!ks. Other aI^
^vele fall ng black hog-skiiis with Avater-skins which, well-tilled and
distended with water till the short legs projected painfully ou of tSe
proper line looked like the corpses of hogs bloated by drowniZ Her^
r^s^'ff "h stf f 1'"*"" f''^'' "- ''-"^ ^^•^'•"^'^I'l-'^ ^ *1----1 thL"
htion no ..t , '"'Sr^'f- ^^"^ i" ^^'^ engraving there is no desc^
f onkel's^ 1 '^r'"'''' !': '^'' countenances, no raw 'places on
sen.b i-^ '""" ^l^'^'^«»:^^''^l^l« J'^l'bering in unknown tongues, no
stench of camels, no suggestion that a couple of tons of powder „laced
under the party and touched off would heighten the effeit and-^ ve to
the scene a genuine interest and a charm which it would always be
pleasant to recall, even though a man lived a thousand years. ^
Oriental scenes look best in steel engravings. I can not be imuosed
upon any niore by tjiat picture of the Queen^of Slieba vising sZnon
friemrin*F/ """'^ ^"t!'' ''^'''»' «f -"^ camel train recognized an old
t/r '""f^TT' '^"d they ran and fell upon each othe?s necks and
kissed each other s grimy, bearded foces upon both cheeks. It explained
Wnfif 'i«'^'"^*J""«^'l"«h had always seemed to me only a far-fetched
O lental fagure ot speech. I refer to the circumstance of Christ's
lebuking a Pharisee, or some such character, and reminding him that
iii*
332
THE SHL'N'EM MIRACLE.
from lam he lind received no " kiss of wolcomo." It (H.l not seem
reasonable to nie that men shouhl kiss each other, but I am aware, now
that they die . There was reason in it, too. The custom was natural
and proper ; because people must kiss, and a man would not he likely to
kiss one of the women of this country of his own free will and accord
Une nuist travel, to learn. Every day now, old Scriptural phrases that
never possessed any significance for mo l)efore, take to themselves a
meanuiir.
We journeyed around the base of the mountain—" Little Hermon '"
—past the old Crusaders' castle of El Fuleh, and arrived at Shunem
lliis was another Masdala, to a fraction, frescoes and all. Here ti-a-
dition .^ays tho prophet Samuel was born, and here the Shunamite woman
buiJt a little hous^ upon the city wall for the accommodation of the
l-rop let Ehsha. Elisha asked licr what she expected in return It was
a perfectly natural que.stion, for these j.eople are and were in the habit of
proffering f\xvors and services and then expecting and begging for i.ay.
Ehsha knew them well. He could not comprehend that any body should
bmltl for him that humble little chamber for the mere sake of old friend-
ship, and with no selfish motive whatever. It used to seem a very
impolite, not to say a rude question, for Elislia to ask the woman, but it
does not seem so to me now. The woman snid she expected nothing.
Ihen for lier goodness and her un.selfishness, lie rejoiced her heart witli
the news that she should boar a son. It was a high reward-but she
would not have thanked him for a daughter-daughters have always
been unpopular liere. The son was born, grew, waxed .strong, died.
-Lhsha restored him to life in Shunem.
We found here a grove of lemon trees— cool, shady, hung with fruit
Vne is -pt to overestimate beauty when it is rare, but to me this -n-ove
seemed very beautiful. It ioas beautiful. I do not overe.stimate it I
must always remember Shunem gratefully, as a place which gave to us
this leafy shelter after our long, hot ride. We lunched, rested, chatted,
smoked our pipes an hour, and then mounted and moved on
As we trotted across the Plain of Jezreel, we met half a dozen Di-^er
Indians (Bedouins) with very long spears in their hands, cavorting aro'imd
on old crowbait horse, and spearing imaginary enemies ; whooping, and
flnttermg their rags m the wind, and carrying on every respect like a
pack of hopeless hinatics. At last, here were the " wHd, free sons of
the desert, speeding over the plain like the wind, on their beautiful
Aiabian mares we had read so much about and longed so much to see '
Here were the "picturesque costumes!" This was the "gallant
TnJ^" • 7''^**f'l«n^'^\i0V./'''''*"'*'-«^^^'^l* braggadocio-" Arabian
maies spined and necked like the ichtliyosaums in the museum, and
hiimped and cornered like a dromedary ! To glance at the genuine son
of the desert is to take the romance out of him forever— to behold his
steed IS to long in charity to strip his harness off and let him fall to
pieces.
Presently we came to a ruinoua old town on the hill, the same being
tlie ancient Jezreel. ®
JEZRKEL.
333
Al.iib, KiiifT of buniiim, (this was a very vast kingdom, for those dav-s
and was very nearly half as large ,t.s Rhode Tslan,!)' dwe t in t h o o 7of
Je ree , w nch was las capital. Xear Imn lived aSaan hv the name of
Nal oth, who had a vn.eyard. The King asked hhn for it,' and wl ' he
woul.l not give ,t, oifered to buy it. 13ul Naboth refused to 1 In
hose days It was considered a sort of crime to part with one' i^d.er
ance utany pnce-and even if a man di.l part with it, it reve to
h.msdt or Ins heirs again at the next jubilee ^ear. So th s spoi el i d
of a King went and lay down on the bed with his face to the wa
gneved sorely. The Queen, a notorious character in those da^, u
as el hun wherefore he sorrowed, and he told her. Jezebel said si e
could secnre tins vmeyard ; and she went forth an.l forged letters to It
nobles and wi.se men in the King's name, and ordered them to pmclim
a fast and set Naboth on high before the people, and suborn two witnesses
to swear that he had blasphemed. Tliey did it, and the people oed
le accused by the city wall, an,l he died. Then Jezebel clmi am tl
^ne^mf' ' S^ XI i ''^'^'t^^^?^' " ^ '"^^'"--^ "!' '-^^ «^i-^«
Vut\t.Vr 1 ^yt- V"^ ^''' vmeyard, and went into it to possess it.
Lut the Prophet Elijah came to him there and read his fate to him, and
the fateo^ Jezebe ; and said that in the place where dogs licked the
blood of Naboth, dogs should also lick his blood-and he sai.l, i ].^w e
ime, the King was ki led in battle, and when his chariot wheels were
^vaHhed in the poo of Samaria, the .logs licked the blood. In after vears
Jehu, wlio was King of Israel, marched down against Jezreel, by order
rebukt ^''^'^"''' '''f ^^^^^^^^^-^ o-'^e of those couvincSiig
icbukes so conimon among the people of those days; he killed many
k ngs and their subjects, and as he came along he saw Jezebel, painted
Zni^ 1^ Tf- ^"'^T'^ °"* "^ '" ^''"^'^' '^'^'1 ""l^^-^^^l that she L
inc ei foot Ihen Jehii went in and .sat down to dinner ; and proseutly
he sauI, Go and bury this cursed woman, for slie is a King's LvA^tev
llie spirit of charity came upon him too late, however, for°he i.ronhecv
had already been fultilled-the dogs had eaten her, and thev '' fo no
more o her han the skull and the feet, and the >alms of her hands '
Al ab, the late King, had left a helpless family behind him, and Jehu
k led seventy ot the orphan sons. Then he killed all the relatives and
te c ers, and servants ami friends of the family, and rested from his
abor nntil he came near to Samaria, where 'he met fortv-two per-
sons and as^ked them who they were; they said they were brother of
he King of Jndah. He killed them. When he got to Samaria he said
he woukl show his zeal for_ the Lord ; so he gathered all the priesttS d
S; t.Tw'^ "''T'''^^'l"'^^'"^' protendhig that he wis goinj o
a o that worship ,u,d oiier up a great sacrifice ; and when the\ wei-e
all shut up where hey could not defend themselves, he caused every
"""^lis 1 br'" '' '"'"'• ''''''' ^^^'"•' '''' S*^^^' missionary, rest 5
Ills labors once more.
Ht;
■•Mt ■
K;r..
fr
324
c;iDEOX H HAND — SAMAllIA.
"Wo went back to the valloy, and rode to tlio Fountain of Ain Jflii.l
Tlioy call It tl.o lM.untain of Jezroll, Tisually. It is a i,on.l al.out on.'-
hiuulml foot s,,i,i.rn nn.l four foot .loop, with a stroani of wator tiioklin.'
into It froin un.loi- an ..ver-han-in- lo.Igo of rooks. It is i.i tho n.i.lst of
a^roat soht.Kh. Iloro Oidoon pitoho.! his can.,, in tho oWon tinios •
behm.lShunoniL,yt).o''Midianit,.s, tho Anudokitos, and tho C'hildrou'
ot tJie hast, wlio wore "ns,i,n-asshoi,i.ors fur nndtitudo; l.oth tliov and
their camohi Avore witliont n,.nd.or, as tlie sand l.v tho sea-sJdo for
imdtitiir 0. WJncli means that tliore wore one Imndrod an.l tlartv-tivo
thousand 7non, and that they had transportation service accor.lin.dv
Cxuioon with only tliroe hund.-o.l men, surprised them in tho ni-d.t'
and stood l.y and looked on while they butcher<-d each other until J
hundred and twenty thousami lav dead on th(! field
_ We cauipo.l at Jenin before ni^d.t, and -ot „p and starte.I a-ain at one
o clock HI the niornuiK .S.,niewhore towards davli-ht we j.assed the
locality where the best authenticated tradition locates the ,)it into which
Josephs bretnren threw hi,.,, and about noon, after passini; over a
succession of mountain tops, clad with -roves of tig and olive tiees, with
the_Mediterraneanins.,irhtson,efo,v,Mniles away, and -oin- by manv
ancient Biblical_cit.es whose inhabitants glowered sav,7gelv^,pon o.u-
Cln-istian pi-ocession, and were seeminglv inclined to practice on it with
stones, we came to the sin,gularly terraced and unlovelv hills that betravod
that we were out of Galilee and into Samaria at last '
Wo climbed a high hill to visit the city of Samaria, where the woman
may have hailed f.'om who cc-vevsed with Christ at Jacob's Well and
from whence, no doubt, ca.ne a.lso the c elebratod Uood San.aritan. Herod
tne Irreat is said to have made a mag.iiticent citv of this place and a
great number of coarse limestone columns, twentv feet high and two feet
tlirough, that are almost guiltless of arcliitectural grace of slripe and
ornament, are pointed out by many authors as evidence of the fact
lliey would not have been considered handsome in ancient Greece
however. ^^^^^,
The inhabitants of this camp are particularly vicious, and stoned two
parties of our pilgrims a day or two ago who brought about the difficultv
by showing their revolvers when they did not intend to use them— a
tiling which IS deemed bad judgment in the Far West, and ought certainly
to be so considere.l anywhere. In the new Territories, whei'i a man puts
his hand on a weapon, he knows that he must use it: he must use it
instantly or expect to be shot down where he stands. Those j.ilcrrims
had been reading Grimes. '■ *
There was nothing for US to do in Samaria but buy handfuls of old
Koman coins at a franc a dozen, and look at a dilapidated church of the
Crusades and a vault m it which once contained the body of John the
liaptist! _ This rehc was long ago earned away to Genoa.
..amaria stood a disastrous siege, once, in the days of Elisha, at the
hands of the kiu" of Svri-1 Pi-ivi<;i"r.T-=: ,,^-.1-1 ^ n i
" ,T, n ' ■ ^ ^''^^^lons reucjicd such a figure that ''an
ass head was sold for eighty })ieces of silver and the fourth part of a cab
ot dove s dung for hve pieces of sil , er."
SAMAIUA.
335
An incuont rm.nlo.1 of tlut l.eavy timo nil! .ivo out- u v.rv«oo<l idov
of u. atstn-s. that ,,n,vuilo.l u-itl.in tln-s,- ....:;,„l.,i„,, walj.; '1 tt
King was walkiny upon th.l,attle.,.out.suu....lMV, -a ^va,„..n cvml out
un 1 j^ «"^^ oixHl, this woman saul nnto mo, (Jiv. tl.y son, tlatt wo ,„av
eat lanito-dav an. we w.ll „at n.y son to-n.om,w. So wo hoi od
n>y sun, and d.d eat him : and I sai.l unto ho,- on the ncKt div Giv thv
Hon that we ,uay eat him : and she hath hid her .son " ^' '
nnies'.W'T'l'^'';*';" '^'f''''^ ^''"^ '''''^'"' ^■'^"'' "»•' t^^""tv Innus the
puces ot food shouhl '^o .h)wn to nothiu,^ ahuost, and it was so The
Syrian ai-M.y broke camp and lied, for some eause or otla-r, the fauiino
w. reljeve.] irou. without, and n.any a sho,hly speeulator i,! dove's "
and ass meat was runied. »
At NN o o clock we stopped to lunch and re.st at ancient Sheehem. l.etween
the historic Mounts of ( Jerizim aud Ehal where in the old tin.es he book
of tlu, law, the cm-ses .md the blessings, were read fi-o.n the he d.t^ t^
the Jewish nudtitudes below. '■'o'"-^
''>-k
the
CHAPTER LI I
'fJM
|HK narrow canon in wliidi Nahlous, or Hliocheui, in Kitunted, is
under liigli cultivation, and Uw. soil is oxceodingly bkok and fertilo.
It is well watered, and itn nlHuent ve;,'etation gains eflect by contrast
with tlio barren hills that tower on cither side. One of these hills is tho
• ancient Mount of Blessings and tho other the INIount of Curses; and
wise men wlio seek for fultiltnents of proi)liecy think they ind hero a
wonder of this kind — to wit, that tho Mount of Bh'ssings is strangely
fertile and its mate as strangely unproductive. We couhl not see that
tlu're was really much difference lietween them in this respect, however.
Shecheni is distinguished as ono of the residences of the patriarch
■ Jacob, and as the seat of thoso tribes that cut themselves loose from
their brethren of Israel and propagated doctrines not in conformity with
those of the original Jewish eroed. For thousands of years this clan
liave dwelt in Shecheni under strict ta!n<, and having little commerce
or fellowship with their fellow men of any religion or nationality. For
generations they have not mnnl)ered more than one or two hundred, l>at
they still adhere to their ancient faith and inaintain their ancient rites
and ceremonies. J'alk of family and old descent .' Princes and nobles
pride themselves upon lineages thcv can trace back some hundreds of
years. What is this trifle to tliis handful of old fir.st families of
Shechem, who can name their fathers straight back without a flaw for
thousands—straight back to a period so remote that men reared in a
country wh' re the days of two hundred years ago are called "ancient"
times grov. iized and bowihlered when they try to comprehend it ! Here
is respectability for you— here is " family" — here is high descent vrorth
talking about. This sad, proud remnant of a once mighty comnuniity
still hold themselves aloof from all the world ; they still live as their
filthers lived, labor as their fathers labored, think as they did, feel as
they did, worship in tho same i)lace, in sight of the same landmarks, and
in the same quaint, patriarchial way their ancestors did more than thirty
centuries ago. I found myself gazing at any straggling scion of tliis
strange race with a riveted fascination, just as ono woukl stare at a
living mastodon, or a megatherium that liad moved in the grey dawn of
creation and seen the wonders of that mysterious world that was before
the flood.
^ CHiefuIiy preserved anioug the sacred archives of this curious commn-
uity is a MSS. copy of the ancient Jewish huv, which is .said to be the
years
JOSEPH'S TOM n—jAroii's \vn ,
OlUt'St (IdiMUnCIlt OTl onffli Ti •
Its f;.u.o is so,uow].at -Unni:: 'Ti "^ l^^:;;^ ^ '"""'V^T '^ "'«''*•
>^o iiiimy atitliors of Palosti.i" tr,. .11. • u ^ i ' '"'^''^"^o of the (loiil»fs
th" lu-h-pnoHt of il.is anciopt .Saii.ui . . • ^ proeiiml from
H «.crot docMunout of still in,l^ i , tv anli'T''' ''' ^''•'''' •"^'•""-•
mtoiust, wJ.ich r ,.,.ono.s., to „nl, islV ' ' r /'"""^ <'xtiMonlin,uy
and w;;:.r;;ti:j!K,;t;;f :V";^' ^''i'*"'^" -^^ ^--^ -^^ si..,..,.,
tho Ha.no timo. Th^s , n-st ou s'n ^' •?''"' ,"" "^''^' '''' *''^''"' "^"^-'
men. ' "i* >^- »t is yuanlu.l ••>' heiv« si-irits iiivisil,!,. to
Mount KI.UI, b3fo,-o Itt i 1 '^^"'^•^'^^"';^-^^ '"'Ited at tl.o Uso of
.-tly w,.itJwasI.e,l. A^ >s ' i ",,;;r';;;';"'?^'";' ''>^ " ''i^!' '^tone wall
la bettor auti.cnticato.1 than thiT" ''^ ''^^'i'''' -"^'^ ' '■"tli
nr^,?:j;!iro;:^;;:;]''M^^^ of t,. ......
F. w tombs on earth command tho voner-tion of ■
ni"u of divers creeds as this of Jos.'m!, i • ^ ',"''">' '"''"^^ =''»!
Hiul Chiistian alike, rovere it and a or -/^'T'?'^ ""'' '^«''"' ^^^"^Itm
of Joseph, the dutiful sou tie'aftttio U fit '^T I''''' ''^^' ^omb
"lun, the ^vise Prhio. and v„j" '? ' ./f f V • '^ "V'''"' ^^'« ^"t"0"«
Icnows his bistoiy." ' ■'^->1'* ^^l^Jus inHuence-tho world
In this same "parcel of fround" wl,; i i i ,
Humor for a l.uncLd pi.^^T^wJujJf^''' ?^^'' f ^''" ^^^ ^f
cut in the solid roc'c and i.. , , „ V ' ""^'^ celobrate.d M-ell. It is
name c^ this nn;i:^::^::,Zi^:^ZT'l^'fy ^-^^'-I'• ^^1^
ami take no uotico of, is as fnnili, .! l S /''' "''"^ ^^"■^''M^^'^i.^ by
children and the pea.sants o^.llnv f/ ^' ^"^"^ "r""''^ *'* '^'^^ ^i'«
than the Mieuin ; it is ISan t F^S'" ^^ ^^ ^^"^ ^^"--
-" ;: aiXna;:7Si^^^^^^^ f '' ^^ — - ^^-
tok her of the mysterious v.-Itei ofr \. ^1''" ^7'' '^''"^^'^^ <^^' '^'«1
iiobles still clierisii in t!.. .,.,..]i-,- ,!. .' ,- ^le^eendants of „ld Eno-]ish
or that king tarried a dav with' snru' f .?'"" ,''""^*^" ^'^^^^ ^'^^'t this king
years ,igo, no doubt the do v^d m . J H '' ''^'"''T ^^^''^^ ^"""J''«^
L'L' u...,.ta...aut, of the woman of Samaria, livin-
! f
338
JACOBS LADDER.
there in Shecliem, still refer with pardonable vanity to this conversation
of their ancestor, held some little time gone by, with the Messiah of the
Christians. It is not likely that they undervalue a distinction such as
this. Samaritnn nature is luiman nature, and human nature remembers
contact with the illustrious, always.
For an offence done to the family honor, the sons of Jacob exterminated
all Shecliem once.
We left Jacjl)'s Well and traveled till eight in the evening, but rather
slowly, for we had been in the saddle nineteen hours, and the horses
were cruelly tired. We got so far ahead of the tents that we had to-
camp in an Arab village, and sleep on the ground. We could have slept
in the largest of the houses ; but there were some little drawbacks : it
was populous with vermin, it had a dirt floor, it was in no respect cleanly,
and there was n family of goats in the only bedroom, and two donkeys
in the parlor. Outside there Avere no inconveniences, except that the
dusky, i-agged, earnest-eyed villagers of both sexes and all ages grouped
themselves on their haunches all around us, and discussed us and criticised
«s with noisy tongues till midnight. We did not mind the noise, being
tired, but, doubtless, the reader is aware that it is almost an impossible
thing to go to sleep when you knoAV that people are looking at you. "We
went to bed at ten, and got u]) again at two and started once more.
Thus are people persecuted by dragomen, whose sole ambition in life is
to get ahead of each other.
About daylight Ave passed Shiloh, Avliere the Ark of the Covenant
rested three lunidred years, and at Avhose gates good old Eli fell doAvn
and " brake his neck" Avhen the messenger, riding hartl,from the battle,
told him of the defeat of his jieople, the death of his sons, and, more than
all,' the capture of Israel's pride, her hope, her refuge, the ancient Ark
her forefathers brought Avith them out of Egypt. It is little Avonder
that under circumstances like these he fell down and brake his neck.
But Shiloh had no charms for us. We Avere so cold that there was no
comfort l)ut in motion, and so droAvsy Ave could hardly sit u[)on the
horses.
After a Avhile avc came to a shapeless mass of ruins, Avhich still bears
the name of Bethel. It Avas here that Jacob lay doAvn and had that
superb vision of angels flitting up and doAvn a ladder that resvched from
the clouds to earth, and caught glimpses of their blessed home through
the open gates of Heaven.
The pilgrims took Avhat Avas left of the halloAved ruin, and Ave pressed
on toward the goal of our crusade, renoAvned Jerusalem.
The farther Ave Avent the hotter tlie sun got, and tlie more rocky and
hare, repulsive and dreary the landscape became. There coultl not have
been more fragments of stone streAvn broadcast over this jjai't of the
world, if eA-ery ten square feet of the land had been occupied by a
separate and distinct stonecutter's establishment for an age. There was
hardly a trets or a shrub any Avhere. Even tiie olive and the cactus,
those fiist friends of a worthless soil, had almost deserted the country.
JERUSALEM.
339
irndsandtlieLrrouudin.-cmm^^^^^^^^^^^ i '^S ^^'ff«»-^'i«> between the
i4^rs:;;:i;:';::;i;::^,:ir;;^^^ :; ^^- ^'^f -- *^^e to.i> of the
Jerusalem came in si.l7 Wo n He/- '""''."" ?""^"^«- ^^^i" »«
nionient at the ancienTkunHin o pl, , '"^'^f'^'^'h'. We l.dtecl a
the cln-ns of thirsty anima ti ' e c^ I , ''" '''''''"' ^^'""^ ^^^^1''^^ V
no interest for us-we lo 'o/l to "^ T '"'f ^'^""^ centuries ago/had
after lull, and usuali; , ^ f „ ^tret h o;n""^''r' ^^' •^l''''-''^'^ "' ' '""
to the top-but .liippCinln „?:^^i:r X\;";-''*-^ ^-^-- - got
beyond more nnsightli landscape Jn^HolyttL'"""" ^*"'"' '''"'^
Pi^n and ev.,y sinner s::,:::^:^:; ti;;^ ■ Il^l^^L !"' "'^^^ ^^'^^^
J5::^::i^i;ri-sr-i^t;f^^
So small I Why ft w ,? nT 1 , .^ "'^'''^ ^'*>^ ^'^^^■""^''J i" the sun
thousand inha.S;,^,:mll H?:i.'S; "^ ^^^"^^'^ -"'^^« «f fo-
tliirty thousan.l. JerusTlen n,,mf!! /" "''^"^'"■>' ^"^^'-i'"^ ^^ty of
We disniounted a d ook" SI"^ ""f"" '^"^""^ I'^P'-
across the svide inter veninTvZvfo "^"'^'''^ '^ ''^^^^ -sentences,
pronunent features dZ^clwZ^X "" °V"r ' ""'^ "^^^^'^ *''«»«
f.-o.u their school days tm tl eh- death w" "'t' ^'""^''"" *° '^" '"«"
of PIip,>icus, the Mosoue of 0,n n I n '""^'^ ^^cognize the to^yer
Oliyes/the A^Uley of L'ol 1 ; tl ^^^^^ *'^° Mount of
of aethsen.ane-and hU m Son IwT 7' ''^, ^"""'' '""^ *''« ^'-^"'en
ourpi,;;-:,f.:;:^r' ^uiiSu. ™^'r^^^ ^^^ ^'-^--^ -on
brai)i M-as not teenun./w t , Ik 7 /'"^^^'^''-'-^l "^ tl'e party whose
by the grand his^^y^oAi^'Sw S ^El^l f--^ /-oked
among the,n all was no " voice of themlh.at,'" "''" "^' '^•'* "*^"
-iiiere was no r;ill foi- +r..ii.c. 'n < , , '
thoughts Jeru^i: n ^:.^^ ^..^^fjlj^^p;" V''-- !'-'\<-^ of place. The
all, dignity. .Su,-h tho^H ts o no find' ^^^ ""^'""''^'' '''^ '"«''« *I'^"
the emotions of the nursery "" "l'l"'^'l'^-i'^to expression in
anSnlimUhe^J^::;;,^:-: -'--- -oked streets, hy the
been trying to c.>rnnreh« UlS T ! '' '^" n''"-'' forse^eral ho,n-s I have
where Hoh^inon a^tV:l^'t^^ZX^' " ''" ^"'f V"" '^'"' ^^^^
wbere walls still stand that ^^^^\l::'^,::z:7;i::'^^^
CIl A P T E II L I 1 1
A
FAS^T Avalkei- could go oiits-iide ilie walls of JeniHaleiu and walk
entirely around the city in an hour. I do not know how else to
make one understand how small it is. The ai)i)earance of the city is
peculiar. It is as knoljby with countless little domes as a ])risou door
is Avith bolt-heads. Every house has froni one to half a dozen of these?
Avhitc-plastered domes of stone, broad and low, sitting in the centre of
or in a cluster ni)on, the flat roof. Wherefoi'e, Avheu one looks down
from an eminence, upon the compact mass cf houses (so closely crowded
together, in lact, that there is no ai)poarance of streets at all, and so the
city looks solid), he sees the knobbiest town in the world, except Con-
stantinople. It looks as if it might bo roofed, from centre to circum-
ference, with invtirted saucers. The monotony of the view is interrupted
only by the groat Mosqr.e of Omar, the Tower of Hijipicus, and one or
tv»-o otlier buildings that rise into connnanding })rominence.
Tlie houses are generally t^-o-story high, built strongly of masonry,
whitewashed or plastered outside, and have a cage of wooden lattice-work
projecting in front of every window. To reproduce a Jerusalem street,
it woulil only be necessary to u])-end a chicken coop and hang it before
each window in an alley of American houses.
The streets are roughly and badly paved with stone, and are tolerably
crooked — enough so to make each street appear to close togetlier con-
stantly and come to an end about a hundred yards ahead of a i)ilgrim as
long as he chooses to walk in it. Projecting fronr the top ot the lower
story of m uiy of the houses is a very narrow jioreh-roof or shed without
supports from below ; and I have several times seen cats jump across
the street from one shed to the other when they were out calling. The
cats could have jumped doulilo the distance without extraordinary
exertion. I mention these things to give an idea of how narrow the
.streets are. vSinca a cat can jump across them without the least
inconvenience, it is hardly necessary to state that such streets are too
narrow for carriages. These vehicles can not navigate the Holy City.
The population of Jerusalem is compo.sed of ]Mo.slems, Jews, Greeks,
Latins, Armenians, Syrians, Cojits, Abyssinians, (ireek Catholics, and a
handful of Protestants. One Imndred of the latter sect are all that dwell
now in this birthplace of Christianity. The nice shades of nationality
comprised in the above list, and the languages spoken by them, ai-e
THE HOLY SEPULCHKE.
341
altogcthf-r too uuniorous to mention. It se^ms to mo ih.t oil .1
and colours and tongues of tlie c^irtli innlf l ! 1 f " ^^''^ ''''''^''
fourteen tLouHund souls tl,atdwer J h Inr^^P^jf' "H"^, ^'^
I)overty and dirt tliose simi^ n,ul .,.„ i "'""•^''f ' »• . i^'ig«, wretchedness,
ivi.sie,j.ruiemo;.it:,:;i:;^;rlr"S^^^ TT^ ^^
cripples, tJie blind, and the idiotic •K.^rv ' ' '\ '"""''• ^^^i'^''«'
know but o.ie word of L/t one Wn' O" every liand, and they
sheesh." To s^tt n„X . T^'" apparently-the eternal 'M>uck-
luimanity that hro tie SvTl ''""Tf' '"^'^f"^'"^-^' ""^^ 'Hseased
suppose that the an fen ^ Vh /Z '""' «^«*^'"'^! ^he gates, one nught
Lord M-as expectJ^^ t^ d Sn ° " ?"'"' 'T^'"'^*-'^" '"'^'^^^ "^ ^^-
Bethesada. Jerusale^is ni^li L ^ , "f"'"'* ^'^ '^"" *'^^' ^^'^^^^''^ «f
not desire to li'" W ' "" ''''''■^' '""^ ^•^^^^«-^«- ^ ^^'""l^l
nelS^tS^- ?- - ;t^ «;:;^ «^ i^ Hght n. the .ty,
CJuu-ch of'iho ITolv fepZ/rcL-e ' "' ''" ^^'^ '''''~'''' ^^«- «^' ^^"^
beS;:rs.f :e^::^onii;';s'fy^^T'f i'^' ''-r-' --^^^^'^^ «^
dife,; .sects wil no o dv a.i,tl Zlt U ^T'^''*'^~^'' Christians of
if allowed to do it. BeZir s ; S^ '''''^ P^''^^^'
of Unction, whereon the S -vin ,S 1 ?• ^' ''■^'''^' ^^^'^''^ t^^^ «t«"^'
It was found neceii,^ to conce 1 tl^^ ^ T'V''^* to prepare it for burial,
save it from destruc o„ P ^'eal stone m this way in order to
canie thither'' at trlych^-i '^-"7^'^ ''''' «^""^S when Maxy
Sepulchre itself Tt is a;^' bou; ??feS '"' "' '^^*?' /'" -"•!*-«>«
on which the deadSavioir Hv^vf^ 1 ? ^^>' «^^:«"-^"'l «•« «tone couch
and occupies 1 S s 3 , ^^/f*^"^^^ ^''^"^ .'^"^1 to end of the apartment
been muih woTn b^t ^e Ips of u> " nT Tr'' '1 ?"'"^ """^ '''''''' ^-
now. Over it hanJ some «f?^' 1 1 , "'' ''^'' "^"■«** "« '''' '^'tar,
gewgaw., and fciw<liyo.-„anieutatiou '"•""l.il.zed by tn,miH>iy
and not ve„t„,, npon a>,„tl"?f ™ | T. T 1 '""" '""^' *° "^'f
«.e VUHd .„,.,». , J;e chap. Of ... «,.a„, i, ,,. nirj Zt
«,, " I'—vv.. -iiic' uuapei 01 tne ;
ot the Copts is tlie humblest of them all.
%
f,
t ,f
iff
It is nothing but a
dismal
342
Tin: HOLY SEPLLC'HKE.
cavern, roughly hewn in the living rock of the Hill of Calvary. In one
sule of it two ancient tombs are hewii, which are claimed to be those in
■which Nicodemns and Joseph of Aramathea were buried.
As wc moved among the great piers and pillars of another part of the
church, we came upon a party of black robed, animiil-looking Italian
monks, with candles in their hands, who were chanting something in
Latui, and going through some kind of religious iierformance around a
disk of white marble let into the lioor. It was there that the risen
Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen in the likeness of a gardener. Near
by was a similar stone, shaped like a star— here the :Magdalen herself
stood, at the same time. IMonks wei-e performing in this place also.
They perform every where— all over the vast building, and at all houi-s!
Their candles are always flitting about in the gloom, and making the dim
old church more dismal than there is any necessitv that it should be
even though it is a tomb. ^ '
We were shown the place where our Lord appeared to his mother after
the Resurrection. Here, also, a marble slab marks the place were St.
Helena, the mother of the Emperor Constantino, found the crosses about
three hundred years after the Crucifixion. According to the legend,
this great discovery elicited extravagant demonstrations of joy. °But
they were of shcrb duration. The question intruded itself : " Which
bore the blessed Saviour, and which the thieves?" To be in doubt, in
so mighty a matter as this— to be uncertain which one to adore Avas a
grievous misfortune. It turned the public joy to son'ow. But when
lived there :i holy prie.st who could not set so simple a trouble as this at
rest ? One of these soon hit u[)on a plan that would be a certain test.
A noble lady lay very ill in Jerusalem. The wise priests ordered that
the three crosses be taken to her bed side one at a time. It was done.
When her eyes fell upon the first one, she uttered a scream that Wiis
hear.] beyond the Damascus Gate, and even upon the Mount of (Jlives,
it was said, and then fell back in a deadly swoon. They recovered her
and brought the second cross. Instantly she went into feaiful convul-
sions, and it was with the greatest diHicultj that six strong men could
hold her. They were afraid, now, to bring in the third cross. They
began to fear that possibly they had fallen upon the wrong crosses, and
that the true cross was not with this number at all. However, as the
woman seemed likely to die with the convulsions that were tearing her,
they concluded that the tiiird could do no more than put her out of misery
with a hapi)y dispatch. So they brought it, and behold, a" miracle ! The
woman sprang from her bed, smiling and joyful, and perfectly restored to
health. When we listen to evidence like this, we cannot but believe.
We would be ashamed to doubt, andjjroperly, too. Even the very part
of Jerusalem where this aU occurred is there yet. So there is really no
room for doubt.
The priests tried to show us, through a small screen, a fragment of the
genuine Pillar of Flagellation, to which Christ was bound when they
scourged him. But we could not see it, because it was dark inside the
godfrky's sword.
343
screen However a baton is kept liere, whicli tl.e pilrn-ini tl.rustH
pZ'VV; if '^'^ ''''''\ '""^ *''"^ ^"^ "« 1^"«'''^- ^'^'-'^'^ that the true
1^ fo . 1 o ;°f 'f'°;' ^'^ "\*"^^'«-. He can not Imve any excuse to doubt
t^^:i :^; Sn^ ''''''' "'^ "^^^'^^ "^ ^^" ^^^ •* - <'^^^"-*'^- - '-
f].5r* ^'^i; fr^^'n liere was a, niche where they used to preserve a piece of
discovered in the sixteentli century. Tlio Latin priests sav it was stolen
away, long ago by priests of another sect. That seen.; like a ?ml
.^.tement to n.dce, but we know veiy well that it rous stolen, iL'lule
^e have seen it ourselves m several cf the cathedrals of Italv and
-T X <ince. >■
But the relic that touched us most was the plain old sword of tint
bladt in Clir stendoiu wields such enchantment as this-no blade of all
that rust in the ancestral halls of Europe is able to invoke su 1 v"sio
of ^T "\ -'''I'^f" '^ Z'"" "''" ^^'^^ "1"- it-^-- that can p at"
of saclichivalnc deeds or tell such brave tales of the warrior dais of
b.l J '"•''"";■' "•''''/''^''^"^^'""'■■^ ""^ tl-.e Holy Wars tluit has
ckd i n?^""" V''" ^'T ^'' y''''> ""^1 l'^"i''^ '^ ^'^^ thoughts with mai
clad images with inarching armies, with battles and with sie-^es It
^^aks o am of Baklu-in, and Tancred, the princely Saladin, a ul i-reat
t^iS'sil^f r r,^'"' ";"'• ^' "'" "'*'^ -1"^^ «-''^^ '^l=^'l- -^ thes.e°th'i
these splendid heroes of romance used to segregate a man, so to speak
Ss ::;: *'" ''f '' i'^^ '^ ^^'^ «"« -^^^ --^^ *'- -ther half til : ';.
el • f ^ •'^''™«V';!« -l-^ven hundreds of 8aracen Knights from crown to
CUM m those ohl times M-hen Godfrey wielded it. It v,-as enchantecl
then, by a genms that Avas und(>r the command of King Solomon When
dju^ ..Jljroached it. master's tent it always struck the shidd ImS
claigal out a herce alarm upon the startled ear of night. In times of
doubt, or m fog or darkness, if it were drawn from it^ sheath it ou
.omt instantly toward the foe, and thus reveal the wav-and i wo
als^o attempt to start after them of its own accord. A Christian cc
1 ;. r^; T""' r"' ^' r*'^'^ "°* ^^"'^^^^ ^-"••'-' -f-- toimrth
•md .L 1 r'." •'" t^''''""^ *''"* '^ ^^■^"'*' ""t l-^^'P ft'om its scabbard
lei Is th?; " statements are all w.^ll auUienticated in many
egUK, that ai^e among the most trustworthy legends the good old
I "ut'or'\['"r"'" /,--f.-^-f-«etoli Godfrey's swjr.d, 1^:;'
spuit of Grimes was upon me, and if I liad had a graveviu-d I would
have destroyed all the infidels in J erusalem. I wipe'd the 1 od df he
Old sword andhanded it back to the priest-I did^,ot wan the fr sh
.gore to obliterate those sacred spots 'that crimsoned its bri^h ess o> e
clay s,x hundred years ago and thus gave Godfrey warning'tha bef e
the sun went down lius journey of life would end.
we camrio"'^^' ^^Tt '\'' ?'"""' "^ '^'' ^''"'•<^'' ^^' t''*^ H"lv Sepulchre
^vc tame to a small chapel, hewn out of the rock-a place which has
311
THK (.'ENTllK OK THK KAKTII.
hyon luiuwu ..s •• flie Piison of 0;.r Lord" fur many centuries Tr^di
tu^n^y. that ].ere the 8avio.ir whh confined jusJ previo,^ y to the
n'umhxjon. Under mi ultar by the door was a pair of' stone tods f .^
I.tmum le,^s. The.e thin.i^s are called the " lionds of Christ " mJ the
""tI !7'' ""''Wr"' V'-* *\^ ^'"' S^"*'" ^^^«™ *'^« '"""« tl^^y '^o^v^ bear.
Jh.Gi-eeKCmplis the most roomy, the richest and the showiest
thci; r "'' ri r^' •"' ' ".?^'^" ^''^I'^'-^'^^'^'^- ^^■'^ '^^*--' like that o a
tlic*(,K.CK (.hurche. is a lofty screen that extends clear across the chanel
andisgo^^eous .nh ^iidin. and pictures. The numerous la m^S
hann before It are of gold and silver, and co.st great su.ns '
ndWle!;-\ir""n'^'^'" place is a short cohunn that rises from the
.' .// Tl e ^7"7'i\ "^ *^' "r^'^P^'l- '^'"l «^"^»'k-s tJ.e exact centre
fnl!. .J 'T*'"''^''^'^*' traditions tell us that thLs was known
to be the earth s centre, ages ago, an.l that when Christ was upon eart
Le .set all doubts ui.on the subject at rest forever, by .stati u" w th hi
own hps that the tradition was correct. Eemember, He .said tl at tin
particular coiunm stood i.non the centre of the world. If the re of
the world changes, the colu.un changes its position accordingly Thi
c-olunm has moved three different times, of its own accord Thi"/ is
of 7C e.,vtlf't*] ^'r^'"^'*^'^" ' f "'^t"^-«' '^t three different times, masses
01 the eaitl-Mhole ranges .f mountains, probably-have flown off into
space thus e,s.senmg the diametev of the earth, and chaiKdnc. the exact
We ;^i, . ^- •" ""?" '^' '^ 'r^' ''• *^^°- '''^'^ - -^ -^y curious "nd
teiestng circunistauce and is a withering rebuke to those philosophers
uili7o"i' - "ft- r ''^"'^ *^"^' '' ^'^ ""' l'°^«^'^l« ^- '^"y I'-tio" of tl
eartJi to tly off into .s])ace.
To .satisfy hiniself that this .spot was really the centre of the earth a
eptic once paid well for the privilege of ascending to the dome of the
.'huich to see if the sun gave him a sliadow at noon. He came down
t^:^TTr'lJ''''''^ '^^'^ r-y «J-<b' and the sun threw no
shadows at all ; but the man was satisfied tlmt if the sun liad come out
and made shadows, ,t could not have n.ade any for hin.. Piooft like
these are not to be .set aside by the idle tongues of eavilers. To such a'
Siat'nothf ' ""' "'-V?'"^' *^ ^' ^«^^^'"-<^'l' '^^^y ««"y - convictioa
tJiat iiotJung can ever shake.
If even greater i.roofs than those I have mentioned are wanted to
tt'efri^^'^^'■''"^'""'^!r^°°^'^'' *^"* *^"'^ is the genuine centre of
mlv t • '' "'■', '''• ^^'\Sre^'^^'t of them lies in the tact tlmt from
Thto^Z very coiunm was taken the dnstjro.n which Adcm. was made.
ihis can surely he regarded m the light of a settler. It is not likely
f,v^UtvT'"^T i"'' T'' ^'""^^^ ^''''' '^^"^ '"'-^d^ fro"^ «" inferior-
quallt^ of earth when it was entirely convenient to get first quality
Ihat Alan was formed of dirt procured in this very spot is amply
ni'ov Tl r.^V*';"* "^ "•" *'"'"""^ •^"^^•■'' "° '"-^ ^^^' ever been 7ffi.
to piove that the dirt was not procured here whereof he was made
on.e,f'^l"'T°" '7""'!'"'"*""'^ *l'"t"Slit ""der the roof of this same-
gi-eat church, and not far away from that illustrious column, Adam
Tin: MARTYRED SOLDIKR— THE
INSCRIPTIOX.
.'U:
tbei-ecanl„„oei .,,',/. " ''''T'' "' I"""'""' <"" "» ''i—
i» not t,,c «,,rin IwSuJ i» "C,":™' - ^' '""" '•'■'"" """ "■"' S"-
<«".. I ,i„.,.,„i it „„ »,,„„,„ t„ i,„v: Tel r ;;"'." ,'''"•"' """
dead re ativo. Let liim ivl,« „.. ii ' ,i,'ia\c of my poor
v«iu„K, i,c,,, for I o J fl," Tittih^ ,r'';'"; "> " •■■ ."""''"" '■'"■-'<> ""'
Holy L»,„l. Nol fo" ,, , ill V;"'" .'" "''' J°"""-.vi«SP tl..-„„.,l,
RonuursoJdier stood ti;', ?n f.d riJoT " f^'!^''}^' "«-> that
II wax noll,i,„. 1„" -t ™ t ! n™^ "■«' k«l' "m g^mg for !,„„„ together,
think St TT«i«r,, *i . ' ^"'^ ^^ ^"''' ^i''''<' *^F THK Jfavh " T
mi;'ti\vS:i;;':,^ ^--^ this w:;:;,erfu
Palestine, and\^s a^^^v fo . .t '^"'^f "*'»T- ;Sho traveled all over
seaivli for that thing, and never ^U^v unfit Z f I •. tT""^^ ="^ '^'"*
she would find Adat • if it 'vn tTe^ A I 1 '?^ ' ' , ^* '* ^'"^ ^^'''""'
clo«e to ^vhere the martyred Eoman soldier str That . " '"^''^'^ T^'
m ona of the churches in Rome now T , ''P^''''' l'^^^*'^ ^*
mscription is very distinct ' ^ ''"'' '"" '^^ ^* *'''^»-«- The
HiG
CHAl'EL or THK MOCKIXCi.
We ])a.sse(l along a few stops and saw the altar built over the M^-y snot
wlK'ro tlio good Catholic priests say the soldiers divided the raiment of
the Saviour.
Then we went down into a cavern which cavilers say was once a cistem.
It is a chai)el, now, however— the Chapel of St. Helena. It is hfty-ono
feet long hy forty-three wide. In it is a marble chair which Helena used
to sitni while she superintended her workmen "-hen they were (liir<aucr
and delving for the True Cros^s. hi this i)lace is an altar dedicated to Ht.
Dnnas, tlie penitent thief. A new bronze statue is here— a statue of
St. Helena. It reminded us of poor Maximilian, so lately shot. He
]n-esented it to this chapel ,vhcn he was about to leave for Iiis throne in
Mexico.
From the cistern we descended twelve st -ps into a large roughly-shaped
grotto, carved wholly out of the living rock. Helena blasted it out when
she was searching for the true cross. She had a laborious piece of work,
here, but it was richly rewarded. Out of this ])lace she got the crown of
thorns, the nails of the cross, the true ci'oss itself, and the cross of the
l)enitent thief. When slie thought she had found every thing and was
about to st9i), slie was tokl in a drean> to continue a day longer. It wius
very fortunate. She did ,o, and found the cross of the other thief
The walls and roof of this grotto still weep bitter tears in memory of
the event that transpired on Calvary, and devout pilgrims groan and
sob when these sad tears fall upon them from the dri])ping rock. The
monks call this ai)artment the •' Chapel of the Invention 'of the Crosd"
—a name which is unfortunate, because it leads the ignorant to ima^'ine
that a tacit acknowledguient is thus made that tlie tradition that Helena
found the true cross here is a fiction— an invention. It is a happiness
to know, however, that intelligent people do not doubt the story iu any
of its jjarticulars.
Priests of any of the chajiels and denominations in the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre; can visit this sacred grotto to weep and pray and worship
the geutle Redi uier. Two different congregations are not allowed to
enter at the same time, however, because they always fight.
Still marching iliroiigh the venerable church of the Holy Sepulchre,
.among chanting priests in coar.se long robes and .sandals ; pilgrims of all
colors ami many nationalities, in all sorts of strange costumes ; under
dusky arches and by dingy piers and columns; through a sombre
cathedral gloom freighted with smoke and incense, and faintly starred
with scores of caiulles that appeared suddenly and as suddenly disap-
peared, or drifted mysteriously hither and thither about the distant
aisles like ghostly jack-o'-lauterns— we came at last to a small chapel
Avhich is called the " Chapel of the mocking." Under the altar was a
fragment of a marble column ; this was the seat Christ sat on when he
was reviled, and mockingly made King, crowned with a crown of thorns
and sceptered with a reed. It was here that they blindfolded him and
struck him, and said iu derision, " Prophecy who it is that smote thee."
The tradition that this is the identical spot of the mocking is a very
PLACE OF THE CUrciFIXIOX.
347
fii'st to mention
refuse to receive
it.
lis
ancient om, The guide suid tl.at Saewulf was the
T do not know .Saewulf, but still I can not wo
evidence— none of us can.
ti,»^;ie a;:;sL"yi!;™ f'jj;;:i«°'::2 r\'" ';'Y'"- ""'■'"■"•
D,m, a,Kl took nil tl.eir n™ e ' .' f om I'l ■ ff'""' ^°"' f '*"'' *»
tomi, ,, i„ a goo,l state of i,resiTvati„„. ^ '"•'■ "'»™'<"-. '■«
When one enters the church of thp T-FnUr «, i i xi
itself is the first thin^^ he do ires to L.?{ '^^i;"'^'."-^, the Sepulchre
thing he does see. Tne ne^^ Sv^L ha a sS ^, " '^'""■^* /'"^ "'•^*
the spot where the Saviour was en cifie P, t '^ y^^^^nmg to see is
It is the crowning glory of t e ,h 'e O, " *'''^ f^^^'^*^^ ^••^•^<^-
when he stands in%he little 'L of 'th S^vlouf^r ""\ f ''"•'''*'"'
l.eother^viseinsucha,,lace-buthe ....n^r.i ^ "^ '^''''^'^ ''°' ^^'^'"
that ever the Lord lay lore and o 1 o -^/''f^'^'^y^^'^^^^'^ ^'^'Hef
very, very greatly n.L-rorh; tLt iSecC I e' lol'^ "/IT ^^"f ''
place of the Crucifixion aflects hi.u difivLX Ho t „ ' ,• ^^
*,ce.> a «Hn.i„, .enlS/alS ^LT r.-t ,tt ^^^ Ltlt; ol'^f"'-
he can not over look thp f^oi- +i,o+ , i i I "'^^ ^^^^ '^ ^^"i" ot ovation :
many in Jerusalen w t ^^ ^J;VZr7'^'V^'''^ 'r^ -^'^
348
i';.A< E OK Tin: ciu-cikixion.
tlionghtleas witnesH. FatluMs .voul.I tell theii- sous al.out the strange
a lair, and i.omt out the spot ; the sons woulil tniusn.it tho storv to their
cJ.ihlren au.l thus a juTiod of throe hundred veavs would easily he
«l.anne.l*-at %vhi. h time Helena c;inie and l.uilt a church ui.on Calvary
to connnen.orato tiio death and b.irial of the Lord and preserve the
«ncred place m tho memories of men ; sine.> that time there has always
been a cliurch there. It is not ,iossihle that fhere can be any mistake
about tho lomlityof tho Crucifixion. Not half a dozen j.ersons kne-.v
where they burieil li,,- Saviour, perhaps, and a burial is not a startliu-
event any how; tlierefore, ^^e can be pai'doned for unbelief in the
feopuIcLre, but not m the place of the CruciHxion. Five hundre.l years
hence_ there wi be „.. vestige of Bunker H;11 monunu.nt left, but
America will .still know where the battle was fought and where Warren
1 .1 ij-.f 'f !V\'"" "*' ^ '''"'* '^''^^ t"° ""♦='^'5" "» event in .Jerusalem,
anti the H,ll of Calvary made too celebrated by it, to be forgotten in the
8hort space of three iuuulre<l years. I cliiubed the stairway in the
church which brings one to the top of the small inclosed pinnacle of rock,
and looke.l upon the place where the true cross once stood, with .-i far
more absorbing interest tJuin I had ever f.-lt in any thing earthly hefore
I con d not believe that the three holes in the toj; of the rock were the
actua ones the crosses had stood in, but I felt satisfied that those crosses
Had stood Fo near the place now occupied by them, that the few fec-t of
po.ssi )le diflerence were a matter of no consequence.
VV hen one stands where the Saviour was crucified, he finds it all he
can do to keep it strictly before his mind that Christ was not cnicified
in a Catholic Church. He must remind himself every now and then
that the great event transpired in the open air, and not in a gloomy,
camlie-lighted cell in a little corner of a va.st church, np-.stairs— a small
cell all bejeweled and bespangled with flashy ornamentation, in execrable
taste.
Under a marble altar like a table, in a circular hole in the marble
floor, corresponding with the one just under it in which the true cross
stood. The first thing every one does is to kneel down and take a candle
and examine *:iis hole. Iledoes this strange prospecting with an amount
ot gravity that can never be estimated or appreciated bv a man who has
not seen the operation. Then he holds his candle before a richly enc^raN ed
picture of the Saviour, done on a massy slab of gold, and wonderfully
rayed and starred with diamonds, which hangs above the hole within
tlie altar, and his solenniity changes to lively admiration. He rises and
faces the fine wrought figures of the Saviour and the malefactors uplifted
upon their crosses behind the altar, and bright with a metallic lustre of
many colors. He turns next to the figures clo.se to them of the Virgin
and Mary Magdalen; next to the rift in the living rock made by the
esirtliquake at the time of the Crucifixion, and an extension of which he
Iiad seen before in the wall of one of the grottoes below ; lie looks next
fiouf Ids ''''TenVL^f!'"-M '? "°* """"' "°'^ '" ^"" °* ^"""^ '""'■ ^ '^°™^^'^^ '^
J-r.ACR OF Tin: chucikixiox.
■•{»{>
at tli(! sliow-case witli a figure of tlio Vivmu in if ,„. i • , ,
CHAPTER L I V .
•Vi;rH wen. shm.lingin a nanow street, l.y tl>.. Tower of Antonio
Y } On tljoso stones that ar<, erunihlin,' uway," ti.e Kui.le said " th
^X's" "';\''^w'' '"^"'; *'^'^'"" "'• *^" --"« 'f^'-^^ the he,inn :.
ot tlie .>onowlul AVivv. ortlie w.iv nf <'•■;,<•" ti ^ ^ i " '«
ii 1 " 'V I '-" <■"" "ii\ oi iTiiet. liie Diii'tv todk- iiiifi> f\i
iTci:-'":; iTw't';"' '""'^"''t- ;.^'" »--'"' >-•- ti.e-"Ei"iL
Aicli, nn.l sinv tl.e very wmi.Ionv from wl.icl, Pilate's wife warned l.or
bus .an. o Lave nothin,^ to do with the persecution of the j M /
Tins wnulow ,s ni an excellent state of preservation, eonsiderin / ts
great ,,,e. They showed ns where Jesv.s rested the sL-cond t , e "and
w ere the moh refused to give him u,,, and sai.l, "Let hisbloo e up"
onr ] eads, nnd upon otn- children's children forever." The F, "c
S ont- ld:;oti" "V" ^'"■'^^^ -^'^ '''' ^I'^^' -"^ -^'' their u^d^'ne !
atiou lot ii stonca relics, are meorporatin- into the now such serai.s of
ancient wajls as they have fontul there. FurO.er on, we saw t ' ,o
where the fanUm,, Saviour fell under the wei-d.t of h s cr.m A .^rla
gtunue cohnnn ot some ancient temple lav there at the tin e td the
sSw"'";? ''"'t-^* «nch a blow that it broke in two i S k. mildre
We ot;''';t •' f "'^"^"^ '" ''■"'''-' "'^ '"'^-'^ *^- '"-ken colu .;
Veionica. ^^ hen the Naviour pa.ssed there, .she came out, full of wom-inlv
compassion, ami spoke pityin,r words to him, undaunted bv 1 e Z J
and the threa enn..ijs of the nu.b, and wiped the prespiration from his f ce
with her handkei'c 1 ff. AVe had heird so ,u.,r.l. ,>+' «+ t i<J"yom ni-, mu
liPi- ,„• .f,,,.. 1 i- »» e iiao ii(.am so much ot St. V eronica, and seen
he, picture by so many masters, that it was lik,^ lueetin.- an ,ld frien
unexpected y to come upon her ancient home in Jerusalem": The s ran
sue ^^ pcd the per.sp.ratio,i away, the print of the Saviour's face remiined
^i._kueu this, because we saw this handkerchief in a Cathedral in
Pans in another m Spain, and in two others in Italv. I, the Vila
cathedral it costs five francs to .sec it, ami at St. Peter's, at o me i i
almo.st impossibe to .see it at auv ,.,•;,-> V. +,. iv ''\'^'""^'' ^^ ^^
veritied as tlnx of ti^ ^.r ". '^^ '",'> 1'^-^- ^"^ tradition is so amply
veimec as tins ot St. A eronica and her handkerchief. ^ -
At tiie next corner we .saw a. deep indention in the hard stone
mil that the giude said it Avas ma.le by the elbow of the SaviouV. who
TirK WANDKniNO .ll.w.
351
Htuiiil)|..tl hero luid fell. Pmseiitlv we mm., h. Inwf i ...
CVlvaiy, w,„ac,.rt,ii„»t,„„. I i„,„ „ |„' ' '■ " » '" ■' ' t"™,,!
r;:';':;' ";','■■" """;' "-'; - ™« -'' «''*^i- -",.;:. r.,::
^^k^."^vV"■ ■■'■■■ "' '•"■l'r'-"'-'."r ."'■ i'i'^"""» <■' «.^...t 1
j> asKui wiy , ^,^, j,,„^|„ j^.,,,, j( Leciiuse this was .,..„ rX
ho V..,,- sto. -H of Jen .:ale,a" that Christ .nontionewl'r !"';:[
H|.r(nt.,l for i.e;inirMU£rth< people t.) cry " Hos ,nn.l. "' wl, I i
":;;""j::;:';t::r :"" r ^'^ -'r ■"■ "-"''• ^^^ i«:'i;:;
a If, 1 "'"i""' tliiit tlio »toi,.-» ,«,/ crv oiit-CI,ri«t Slid
str.,,,ling ,no1> that was .p ^-'idl ^ u ^ .^te^"; v"'^;^i''''
wi.V- an.l the;.on„I^::, h L'nevor .' 'l^;;';! A^Hh.;;", "'T' 11'"
All men kuosv how that the nnscroa.:;^;^ wllo'"^^^.; ^^j, , ^ j j!:
fell, hasroaine.! up aiul down the wide world for a-es •„, 1 • >: . l
stop m cit^, m wdderness, m desert solitudes, vet hearin- al.vMvs tint
relentless waruui- t.. mareh-a.arch on! Tl.ev siv-do\ ! .' ' I
mdUious that wlu.. Titus sacked Jornsalelu amfsla 'ht' ^
Inindred thousand Jews in her streets and hv wivs fl,.' w i • r
te'lhlir^tlead^^la^ZS ^ s ^ J in";^;-.^: i Tl ^^7r'^
breast to whi..n, javelins^to InJ^^'^^^^Z ^i^,,;!' ^ir':! . -
m-apon hat prou.ised death and forjtfulness and res -, il\ ^
i^^ddTi; t n:Y 'r'; °"* ^^ ^''^ ^'^"^^^' -th:::;\;wounr" a Li •;
IS saul tl at h^e hundred years afterward he followed 3tahon,et when In
earned des ruction to tlu3 eities of Arabia, and then tnr e .„{ t hi '
Lopnig m this w,w to win the death of a traitor. H leuh i^ ^ ^
wrong again. Xo .juarter was yiven to any liyin- cre'ttu e ' ^
that ..s the only one of all tl.host that ^id S w.;;;' i ; " h'Si;:^
death hye hundred yeans later, in the war of the Crusades, ancl oSed
352
THE WANDERIXO JEW.
IZu '^ fitnnno ami pestilence at Ascalou. Ho escaped agaiu-Iie
coukl not die T]ie,se repeated annoyances conld have at la.t'lnit one
cttect-tlisy shook his conhdencs. Since tJien the Wandering Jew h.is
earned on a knid of desultory toying with the most promising of the
aids and implements of destruction, but with small hope, as a -^eneral
thing He 1ms speculated some in cholera and railroads, and has taken
almost a lively uiterest m infernal machines and patent medicines He
IS old now, and grave, as becomes an age like ]iis ; he indulges in no
light amnsemonts save that Jie goes sometimes to executions, and is fond
^ There is one thing he cannot avoid ; go where he will about the world,
iie must never tail to report in Jerusalem eA-erv fiftieth year Only a
year or two ago he was here for the thirty-seventh time since Jesus was
crucihed on Calvaiy They say that many old people, who are here now,
saw him then, and Jiad seen iiim before. He looks always the .same-
old, and M-ithere<l and hollow-eyed, and listless, save that tiiere is al>out
lum sometlnng that seems to suggest that he is looking for some one
-expecting some one-the friends of his youtli, perhaps ]i,it the most
of them are dead, now. He always .pokes aboui the Ll streets lookiK
lonesome, making ns mark on a wall here and there, and eyein" le
i;;;.;i*^'%f''''7'''^^'^ °^'';«. ■''""''^"* '^-^^^^^^^ ^nd bitter, bitter teans
they ai e. 1 hen he collects his rent and leaves again. He has been soon
iiight, for he has cherished an idea for many centuries that if he could
.mly enter there he could rest. But when he appears, the doors 'im
t oWK iT ' 1? "T^' 'T'^^'''' '''''^ •■^" *'^^ '^«'^^« "^ J^^^'"^^=^l"^^ ^"'"1
ion W r 1 ""'''-^', '^"« """"''y ^'^'y y^''' J"«t the same. It is
hopeles,, but then it is hard to break habits one has been eighteen
hundred yeai. accustomed to. The old tourist is fta- aM-ay on his ^^
g. ""'^- "^^^:^' ^'^ »i"«t «mile to see a pack of blockheads like ns
i,allopuig about the world, and looking wise,' and imagining, we are ind-
ng out a good deal about it I He must ha^'e a consuniing cou^e n.t for
the Ignorant, complacent asses that go skurrying about%he w 1 in
these railroadmg day.s and call it traveling. '
\V hen the guide j.ointed out where the Wandering Je^v had left his
Aimiliar mark upon the wall, I was tilled witii astonishment. It mvd:
"S. T.— 18G0— X."
■ <t .<'«/^/.y;«^/ of Jerusalem. They are upon Mount .Aloriah where Kiur
^^olomon's Temple stood. This Mosrpie is the holiest pi e t^^^Mo r f
iuedan knows, outside of '\rpf'<.i TT,> +,, „.:n ■ ^ Jion.im-
{'hi^ist;.,,, nn„u ? _^Mcc.a. Up to withm a year or two past, no
iJuLstian could gam admission to it or its court for love ov ,noney But
the proiuoition has been removed, and we entered freely for wSreesh!
MAHOMET'S ItOCK. g^g
•see them. One can not see sT^ l" '^^'^ ~^^''''^"^« ^ did not
frequently only finds ot],0H^Sv"^,^t'-f1 '" ""*""* glance-ono
■Me aciuaintanco ^vitl her .uufti v i-™°^"" ^^ '^^^''^- ^''"^«id«'-
majestic mountains and to mosnues es^' *l/'^'^' *" ^^"^am Falls, to
The great feature of the TZ^^Cf^i^" ""'?• "^•
centre of its rot,inda. It was u omI . .^ i '^ *'f P/'O'^gious rock in tho
offering up his son Isaac! L\t let V t"^'^^''"'' '''''' «« "«^'^-
Juoretohe relied on than most of ti^^'. V • '''"*''-^*^ '' '''y ™"^J^
rock, also, the angel s oo I -u 1 t h.ol ^'^f t°"'' '",* '""^ '^^''- ^'^ «»'«
«uaded hi,n to spa% th^c v \l ?' 'Je''"«alem, and David per-
Htone. From itlJ^rSlU^f^' ^f T" '"'^"?^*«'' ^^^^ Ihis
and if the angel Oahriol h.d not hVn L, .1 .7" ^""^^ ^'^ ^^"«^^' ^^'"'.
be there to soi.e it, it M'o, , ^f ^^^' '^V^ ^ "'"'''*; ^"^^^ ^"^^^ *-
like Ckl.riel-the prints of ) « . ^ '^'■^' ^''''' l'«''I'l« ^''^^ a grii,
to be seen in th^t 1-ock to d-n- """■'''""' ^'^S'^^'^' ^^^'^ "-^-'^ ''eq^^u-e
-Jtl -.i:^ .UrSet;- le'; •;r:r%^'^ *^'« -^•- ^^ ^oes not touch
place on it where Mahon^t stoi ,1 h lefH • ' /' ^'T ^-onderful. Lx tlie
1 should judge ho wonX ^t ; 'h ei '"^.f^^^^f-^f^ i» the solid stone.
wJion I spoke of tl^ rock ul^^V^^^ao^^j'tJ^V. 't^ '' ^^^>''
cavern under it thev showed us a sld .i"- i 1, '•". ^'"^ ^'''"'" ^^ ^he
;vhu.h -asathingjfextrac:;ii 4 nt tal M^r T"'"^ '^ ^'«^«
that hole leads down to pcn-dit^'on nr?! .1 , ?f''''^""'"«lans, because
thence to Heaven nn..t ^a f, n '.] -o .S' t^"'"'^ • '"' ^•\t'-''"'^f^^"-ed from
;^--e and lifts them i"' W\;^rS/^"\;^"f , ^^"''7^^ ^^ands
their heads, but they are carcffil t le. t i i /["^'^^''^'^'--'n.s shave
to take hold of nL guic? obsei -ed , ,? ' 1 i';"!" ^^^' *^"^ ^^M'l.et
consider himself doonKuI to stn'w t1 t ^ k '^'"'iV^^"'"^""'^^''"'^ ^^-"'^'''l
bose his sealp-lock and die begr^ w^^ i^^^'^iij^'^-^' f^ )!^ --o to
I have seen ought to stav witi, fl„ f ,"' . '"^''^ ^^ them that
to how thev w<^-e Im-beml ' '"'"'''' '^"'^' ^''^•"^'' ^^'"''^-t ^-^creiice
tii" i.:sr;;l;sr r-*^; j'^;:.,;:;r i^'sr^ ^ '- -r ;"^ --'^ ^^^-«
caught there blabbing evorv tin r*. X- T^'V'^ /'*' ^'''^ ^^-"^ ^'i««
^bove ground, to tixe rap .1 o s hul o nf f '''^■^' ''''' ^^^'^^ '^"
Who carried heiw,ossinin.' to «nl ^'if<"!'iial regions dowji bf^Iow
lu-ivate-nothing : S^ ^^^ ! ^ :; ?"" ''''' T^^"''^ ^-''^ '-> k'' t •
;>erdition knew all about U fZ^'iCt^jf] '"' 'T"^ ^•"'^^' "'
tnae to suppress this woman's tele^ianh -mTV '"• ^* ^^'f "'"^"*
Hm-bmith subsided about the s.nu.tinu promi.tly done.
w..:'f;;rt;s.^tiS;3' i.;;;^^^^ :/:f -f -^-i ^^arbh.
Mahomet and also tho buckilr of' M^.^.^;--- 2: ''t:::::^ ''
354
THE (iREAT MOSQUE.
railmg wliicli siirronnds tlie rock Wiie ornampiited in one placo with a
tliousiind rags tied to its oi)en work. These are to remind Maliomet not-
to forget the worsliipcrs who placed them there. It is considered the
next best tiling to tying tlireads around his finger by way of reminders.
Jnst outside tli.- mosque is a miniature temi)le, which marks tlie spot
where David and Goliah used to sit and judge the people.*
Every where al)out the Mosque of Omar are portions of j)illars
curiously wr(jught altars, and fragments of elegantly carved marble—'
precious remain'^ of Solomon's Teini)le. These have been du" from all
depths m the soil and rabbish of Mount Moriah, and the Moslems have
always shown a disposition to preserve them with the utmost cai-e. At
that i)ortion of the ancient wall of Solomon's Temjjle which is called the
Jew's Place of Wailing, and where the; Hebrews assemble every Fridav to
kiss the venerated stones and weep over the fallen greatness of Zion, imy
one can see a part of the unquestioned and undisputed Temple of
Solomon, the same consisting of three or four stones lying one upon the
other, each of which is about twice as long as a seven-octave piano, and
about as tliick as such a piano is high. But, as I have remarked before, it is
only a year or two ago that the ancieiU edict prohibiting Christian 'rub-
bish like ourselves to enter the Mosque of Omar anil see the costly
marbles that once adorned the inner Temple was annulled. The designs
wrought upon these fragments are all quaint and i)eculiar, and so the
charm of novelty is added to the deep interest they naturally inspire.
One meets with these venerable scraps at every turn, especially in the
neighboring Mosipie el Aksa, into whose inner walls a very large num-
ber of them are carefully built for preservation. These i)ieces of stone
stained and dusty with age, dimly hint at a grandeur we have all been'
taught to regard as the princoliest ever seen on earth ; and they call ui)
pictures of a pageant that is familiar to all imaginations— camels laden
with .spices and treasure— beautiful slaves, presents for Solomon's
harem— a long cavalcade of richly caparisoned beasts ;ind warriors— and
Sheba's Queen in the van of this vision of "Orieual magniiicence."
These elegant fragments bear a richer interest than the solemn vastness
of the stones the Jews kiss in the Place of Wailing can ever have for the
heedless sinner.
Do\yn hi the hollow ground, underneath the olives and the orancre-
trees that flourish in the court of the great Mosque, is a wilderness °of
pillars— remains of the ancient Temple; they suijjjorted it. Thei'e are
ponderous archways down there, also, oV(>r which the destrovin"
"plough" of pro])hecy passed harmles.s. It is i)lea.sant to know we are
disai)])ointed, in that we never dreamed we might see portions of the
actual Tenq)le of Solomon, and yet experience lio sliadow of susi)ioioii
that they were a monkish humbug and a fraud.
We are surfeited with sights. Nothing has any fascination for us
now, but the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We have been there every
• A pilgrim informs me tlint \t was not David and Goiiali, hut David and Saul I
stick to my own statement— the guide told me, and he ought to know.
SURFEITED WITH SIGHTS.
day, and have not crown tirptl of H- ■ ^.„^■
else. The.isU,JtooJy' Tl,; " ^aZ r"'-' of ovory tl:;ng
no single foot of eronnd in nil T ^ i ^°"* ^''''' "* every step
seems to be ^iti^o^ST^lZfl^'^l^tLT^ "1*^"'^ l'^ neigh, /orhoo'd
a very relief to steal a Avalk of T '"/I'"'^'^"*, ^»«tory of its own. It i,s
talk inceasinglyllut ;try st n" t^ r'^ without a guide along *:
ages and ages to the day whei^Si^d^^Kr "^' '''"' ^'^" '^^^
r^^s^w:i;^:;Ss!nr;si,^lt:::^tl^- <.. a
«ada. I did not think sue th f JT/ ; , ^^ ^"'^°"'' 1'°°' ^^ Betlie-
diminish their interest, l.tr?:,:?,^:;,^ """i'^^ '°'^*''^'- ^^ *"
about, for several days ush L o ,. ! *^'' '''^ ^'■^^''^ ^f"'" d^'ifting
of duty than any hi^^' ^ loTthi ri^oa «";-- ""'^r^'" ^ ^^"^^
been g ad when it was time to go home ml be dY^ , °^*'" ""'' '"^^"^
illustrious localities. * ''^ distressed r.o more about
Our pilgrims compress too much into one div Ono
to repletio. as well as sweetmeats. S L^ we W, Jf . f ^\'?«'-i'^ «>ght«
we have scon enough to h^ive f,n.n,M / ^^leakfasted, tins mornin^r,
we could have seen the vHonfrf "' *^°'' ^^^' ^' y'''"''« ''^^ection ff
deliberately. ^ vl t , Z oo" oJ" Hef ^l""' 'r''''' "i'^ *'-™
"^';::f rs^^StnnS "^^^^^^^ "" ^^^
-any thing, „b„„t i„ To,4 i nTpnict ^ ' ""'' °^ °°""* '"■'■» '■>'<'
%^ne^:=br '" "^^ " '-.-"STL" ■■'°'"™» '-«
name an^lSv to ve nU^™^^ T' ,*i""' "" S"'"" ''»»" '<> S've
tho Field of Bioid;tS,-c„S^M/.°",,.l'' "" "","". •" ^ "Thi,°wa»
of Moloch ; here tl ey McnS S i <W,?. f^V™-'' t"'»'» »'"' '""'I'l^
TyrooMm Valley; tlie Hi of Onl ! 1^,;/"^^^^ ""' ^'°" Oal» > *e
of Jeho,hap,„/_:„., you.. '..^ '* ko will' ; 'Vo":-" W°' ,"'" ""f"^
Jehoshaphat. The recital went ,.„ ' T ■ ,? „ ^^^ '""'e'l "I'
tins i, tho Hill of Offen,"- «fe , , „r 1 ","'" *^°""* "' 0"™s ;
he«, y„,uler, everywlte ii H,! "k ,1 '';; l,"."" ^'"'Wfof S"o„,n f
ZaehaVia,, the !,;«),,;:;;«», r^Sl • ™T' "t""' ""■' ">■«" '««
the Temple wall fthe tomb f Awj™ •' T "' ',' ¥°""' '^I'"'''''' ""'1
tomhofZaeharia,; beyond e «,eO™w:„f ^■"J!'"''^ ^<~ •^""'«» i t'l"
of the Virgin 5^^; hL i^ ;i:toU t o „ , r^^^^^ «'° '-^
fatigne of day, Ld 1 y o otele^^^^^^^ ""Img under the accnmnlated
t..e .onntain of the V.^^ ^I^^^I^ISJ^Z t.^fi'^'^ff
'si!
iiiW
356
THE GOLDEN GATE.
by way of a tunnel of heavy masonry. The famous pool looked exactly
as it looked in Solomon's time, no doubt, and the same dusky, Oriental
women, came down in their old Oriental way, and carried off jars of the
water on their heads, just as they did three thousand years ago, and just
as they will do fifty thousand years hence if any of them are still left on
earth.
We went away from there and stopped at the Fountain of the Virgin.
B..t the water was not good, and there was no comfort or peace any
wliere, on account of the regiment of boys and girls and beggars that
persecuted us all the time for bucksheesh. The guide wanted us to give
them some money, and we did it ; but when he went on to say that tliey
were starving to death we could not 1>ut feel that we had done a great
sin in throwing obstacles in the way of such a desirable consummation,
and so we tried to collect it back, but it could not be done.
We entered the Garden of Gethseniane, and we visited the Tomb of
the Virgin, both of which we had seen before. It is not meet that I
should speak of them now. A more fitting time will come.
I can not speak now of tlie Mount of Olives or its view of Jerusalem,
the Dead Sea and the mountains of Moab ; nor of the Damascus Gate or
the tree that was planted by King Godfrey of Jerusalem. One ought to
feel pleasantly wlion he talks of these things. I can not say any thin"'
about the stone column that projects over Jehoshaphat from the Temi)le
wall like a cannon, except that Jie Moslems believe Mahomet will sit
astride of it when ho comes to judge the world. It is a pity he could not
judge it from so.me roost of his own in Mecca, without trespassing on our
holy ground. Close by is the Golden Gate, in the Temi)le wall— a gate
that was an elegant piece of sculpture in the time of the Temple, and is
even so yet. From it, in ancient times, the Jewish High Priest turned
loose the scapegoat and let him flee to the wildcmess and bear away his
twelve-month load of the sins of the people. If they were to turn oue
loose now, Ik. would not get as far as the Garden of Gethsemane, till
these miserable ' ^- ' " .,. ,. ... - ..
vagabonds here would
gobble
^ ^ o up,* sins and all.
They wouldn't care. Mutton-chops and sin is good enougli living for
them. The Moslems watch the Golden Gate with a jealous eye, and an
anxious one, for they have an honored tradition that when it falls, Islam-
ism Avill foil, anc' wiui it the Ottoman Empire. It did not grieve me any
to rotice that the old gate was getting a little shaky.
We are at home again. We are exhausted. The sun has roasted us,
almost.
We have full comfort in one reflection, he- .^ r Our experiences in
Europe have taught us that in time this Ttigi -ill be forgotten ; the
heat will be forgtton ; the thirst, the tire-vu : vo' >. ity of the guide, the
persecutions of the beggars— and then, all th. '. -ill be left \nll be pleasant
memories of Jerusalem, memories we shall call up with always increasing
interest as the years go by, memories which some day will become /ill
beautiful when tho last annoyance that encumbers them shall have fled out
* Favorite pilgi-im expression.
COMFORTS. oK„
have forgotten oirSir^^^^ t\''' 1'^''"IV'" ^^^^^^^^""^ ^'-"«« -"
marbles were lost JnT^^^^ll^fV^^^^' !^'^^. ^^°^^ ^ve grieved when
marbles were lost .and om-iitlZlT' fr ^"'''' '''*" Sieved when our
aU the sorrows annrivations oJ tl 7'^ ^^-^^^^^^^ T ^^^^« ^°''S«t*«'^
only its orchard robbeHef •?' wo^ ""''"T^ '^'''^' '^^^ ''^"^^^^er
holydays. We are satisfied wlrn v™ ST'^ -/^ it« ^^^ing
To ns, Jerusalem and to-dav's PvnLo •,', r ^'^'''''"'^ '^^^^ ^ome.
4
U\
—a gate
and is
turned
#v
CHAPTEB LV.
WE cast up the account. It footed !:i) pretty fa'riy. Tliore was
nothing more at Jerusalem to ho seen, o:".cf^pt the traditional
lioiises of Dive and La/;arus of the parable, the Tombs of the Kings,
;ind. tr •,«,.• of tlu; Judges ; the sirot where they stoned one of thediseipTes
to deaiij, and Ijelieaded another ; the room and the table made celebrated
by i,,.j Last Supper ; the fig-that Jesus wiiliered ; a number of historical
lAtVA& about (Jethsemane and the Mount o( Olives, and fifteen or twenty
, I thera in different portions of the city, itself.
We were a[)proaching the end. Human nature asserted itself, now.
Overwork and consequent exhaustion began s o have their natural effect.
They began to master the energies and dull the ardor of the party.
Perfectly secure now, against failing to acct mplish any detail of the
pilgrimage, they felt like drawing in advance upon the holyday soon to
be placed to their credit. They grew a little lazy. They were late to
■% , breakfiist and sat long at dinner. Thirty or forty jnlgrims had arrived
from the ship, by the short routes, and nuich swapping of gossip had to
be indulged in. And in hot afternoons, they showed a strong disposition
to lie on the cool divans in the hotel and smoke and talk about pleasant
experiences of a month or so gone by— for even thus early do episodes
of travel which were sometimes annoying, sometimes exasperating and
full as often of no consequence at all when they transpired, begin to rise
abovetlie dead level of monotonous reminiscences and become shapely land-
marks in one's memory. The fog-whistle smothered among a million of
trifling sounds, is noticed a block away, in the city, but the sailor hears it far
at sea, whither none of those thousands of trifling sounds can reach. When
one is in Rome, all the domes are alike ; but when he has gone away
twelve miles, the city fades utterly from sight and leaves St ''eters swel-
ling above the level plain like an anchored baloon. AVhen one is travel-
ing ;ii. Europe, the daily incidents seem all alike; but when he has
placed them all two months and two thousand miles behind him, those
that were worthy of being remembered arc mineiit, and those that
were really insignificant have vanished. TV ^position to smoke, and
idle, aprl falk, was not well. It war iilaL. .at it must not be allowed
to gain: -..ind. A diversion must b> hm', or demoralization .would
ensue ,,i Jordan, Jericho, and th • 'ir.ul Sea, were suggested. Tho
remainder of Jerusalem must be left Ufi\ i ' ed, for a little while. The
DISMAL RUMORS.
350
horizon: fancy m4 a wmrwR X"° l\'- "^" ^^'"'^''^''^ ""^^ ^'-^ ^''«
painful to note ho riUZtl^I'-^V"/^^^^ "'- ■' '"""'^'^t-It ^va.s
lift' of tl,e camp aL tS^^^^^^^ '^"'1 taken to the freo
«tinct; it was born with A l '! "''"''"''" '"''^'''^'^ >« '^ ^"""'^>i iu-
and after I rty cenWs 0?'^*;""/ 'TT'^^ '^^'^-'^^^ the patriavcJ.s,
it entirely out of u yoT t hast T''' "7" T^^*^'^ ''^^ "^^ ^^'-''^toci
will yearn to taste a 'in Til i-""- "'l'^"''' ^""^ ^''^'^t^'^' '^ '"'i"
out of an Indian Ht afl """'^''' "^'^^"^^^ ^'^'^ ""* '-' '^'I'^^'^te^l,
rr,;!nr'-"'ir""''^ '.'""» ^PP'-^ved our dra^^oman was notifiod
of war and dood;hecl w . P H • '" ^'""'"^^r" "^''^"'* *''^ ^^^^^ I'"'"or.s
up i.i arm;, and wer<^'l ' n'f "' n' '^°"'' ^^' ''"' ^^'''"^ ^"^'^ -<^''«
killed. Tl,oy Ll Sim f, f 1 7, '• "'^ '^'^"•■'*'^^ them ; several men
garrison in an ol fo i \l T ' !/"''"'^f ""^'-^ ?^ '' '^^'^^ «"d ^ ^urkisli
n^arched upon a canu, of o ' '"'"^ ^^^^'^^'^^^'^''ng them. They had
gnn,s onlyUve the r livL ^-^J"7.'°'"«ts by the Jordan, an.l tl/e pii-
nnder whfp 2nd s, r n >e d^^kn.' A,'"'^"^^' ^'^■"'' *" '^^"'^'^J-"
ties had been fi xh Ion Ln n T f ^^''\ ''f'^' '^"'^*'^^'^- ^^ ""i" P-'^^-
<lay. Shots were Cl rbo In^'"^'"^ ''^^^" '^"=^'^'^^"' "^ ^1'^' op^'n
Hlied. We spoke wit ftf T' ■ ^'".•^'"i^itely there was no blood-
and learned ^^l^t^Un^^tlr "'" '"' ^'^'^ "^^ '^*" ^'^ ^^^^^
cool courage of theSS tJ oT '. n ^T''"°''' ''"^^'"'^' P^"''^'' «"'>' the
play of war materia 1 •^^f.'^J^' ^^ "^""'^^■'■"- '""' imposing dis-
■eported t at thp f ' f T^ *^''''" ^'"^"^ utter destruction It was
slSd got th l^rrwl iTe tr'^Tf' f f'" "^"^'^ ^f -"• Pi'g-^i-
that he was unwilH I nT n ' ^1 n' '^ ^'V""'"* ^=^^*^*^ = '"^'1' ^"'tlier,
strong nulitary guauf li^ 'f "' ,f ' '"' f *'^* "^^''""'^ ""^'^ "'^"'^"^^I'v
door and everybody aware of wf t IT ''' -^\"' "'1'^^ *''^ ^'°'''' ^' th^
have done ? AcknoXlI^fi I ^'^ ''^''' *'''•''' ^''''> '''^'-'^ ^^"1^1 ^"'^
out ? Hardly if SrLtliT" ''''' '^""''' ""^ '"^'^^'^ shamefully
many women^ You would t. 7'"'"' ""'"'','• ^^'^''^^'^ ^''^^'^ ^^'"'« '^
afraid of a bullion Bedouins l 'f ""^ ""^ ''^'* = '^"'^ >'«" ^^-^^'^ "«*
to yourself to ake n ' ''"."^ °"''^'' y""'' '^"^' '"^'* Proposed quietly
,proJess"on! ^ '" "nostentat.ous position in !he\-eav of the
it li^'^::Tt:^:::':x'!z^ -\ ''- --v-- «^ ^-^'-' ^-
slow horse, but somehow I 1 ^! i "^f"'' ■"• ^ '''^^^ '^ notoriously
neck. He was frverh. "^^ ^f'^' ^'"" ^'^ ^'^« ^•^^"■' to save my
bled a li^le X' dow^io h^^ /" --^' --«- ^ t-n,"
0-iu three ^.k^^ Jl^J ^ ^1^ td ^ ^Zj^^ ^l^^ f
360
BED0UIN8.
■with
old
them
dingy
tried walking, for exercise— I had not hud enough in Jerusalem searehin<r
tor holy i)Uice.s. But it was a failure. The whole mob were suffering
for exercise, and it was not fifteen minutes till they wfu-c all on foot and
1 liad the lead again. It was very discouraging.
This Avas all after we got beyouil Bethany. We stoi)i)od at the village
of Bethany, an hour out from Jerusalem. They showed us the tomb of
Lazarus. I had rather live in it than in any house in the town. And
tliey showed us also a large " Fountain of Lazarus," and in the centre of
•tlu; village the ancient dwelling of Lazarus. Lazarus appears to have
been a man of property. The legends of the Sunday Schools do him
great injustice; they give one the impression that he was jmor. It is
because they get him confused with that Liizarus who had no merit but
his virtue, and virtue never has been as resi)ectable as money. Tho
houpe of Lazarus is a three-story edifice, of stone masonry, but tho
accumulated rubbish of ages has buried all of it but the ui)per story.
We took candles and descended to the dismal cell-like chambers where
Jesus sat at meat with Martha and Mary, and conversed
about their brother. We could not but look ujjon these
apartments with a more than common interest.
We had had a glimpse, from a mountain toj), of the Dead Sea, lying
like a blue shield in the palm of the Jordan, and now we were marchinf
down a close, flaming, rugged, desolate defile, where no living creature
could enjoy life, except, perhaps, a salamander. It was such a dreary,
rei)ulsive, horrible solitude! It was the "wilderness" where John
preached, with camel's hair about his loins— raiment enough— but he
never could have got his locusts and wild honey here. We were mopin^
along down through this dreadful place, every man in the rear. Our
guards— two gorgeous young Arab sheiks, with cargoes of swords, guns,
pistols and daggers on board — were loafing ahead.
"Bedouins!"
Every man shrunk up and disappeared in his clothes like a mud-
turtle. My first impulse was to dash forward and destroy the Bedouins.
My second was to dash to the rear to see if there were any coming in
that direction. I acted on the latter impulse. So did all the others." If
any Bedouins had approached us, then, from that i)oint of the compass,
they would have paid dearly for their rashness. We all remarked that,
afterwards. There would have been scenes of riot and bloodshed
there that no pen could describe. I know that, because each man told
us what he would have done, individually ; and such a medley of strange
and unheard-of inventions of cruelty you could not conceive of. One
man said he had calmly made up his mind u) perish where he stood, if
need be, but never yield an inch ; he was going to wait, with deadly
patience, till lie could count the stripes upon the first Bedouin's
jacket, and then count them and let him have it. Another was going to
sit still till the first lance reached within an inch of his breast, and then
dodge it .-ind soizo it. I forbear to tell what he was going to do to that
Bedouin that owned it. It makes my blood run cold to think of it.
THK NIGHT MAIICII.
361
S^3'r :?«eS= :r^^Jz^ ^j:-:
Sucli Avas the awful .sentence tliat tlmndered from Iiis li„^ Wl, ,f
grammar to a desperado like that] I was gla n m h I ^^ tint I S
4l t h r' :boutoiu"T'"H""lf .''"'? '' -arauding Bedou's (irt
aga„.t the in-owling vagabond's of the d^^e^nhttLuintro U^^^^^
who are always going to do something desperate, but never W I „ Tv
aa well n.ention hero that on our whole trip we' saw no E.douins aS
had no more use for an Arab guard than we could have had fo '^^t
leather boots and white kid gloves, ll^e Bedoiiins tint att.? ' k!
o her parties of pilgrims so fiercely were provided ?or the occ-Uon t
the Arab guards of those parties, and shipped from Jerusalem for t.^^
porary service as Bedouins. They met t,i"ether in full v iew of tL dU
U::^^::!^!^'' andtooklunch, divided the bucksheelhlo' eJ n
.v]Zl IT'"^ *^' f''"''*''^ *^'^ P''^^^^'^* ^^'^^'^ sweetened (it is sweet yetV
where he remained sometime and was fed by the ravens ^ ''
against the rebuilding of it, lJn:::t::ltZ^^^
the curse in light estimation, made the atten.pt, but warstScfcu sore !
for his presumption. Its site will always renai^n unoccupLd and vet i^
IS one of the very best locations for a town we have snTn all Pdestt
A. two in the morning they routed us out of bed-anoJlef niece of
jL;« r , T' "''**''''' ^^°"'« ^« t^^« Jordan. However we were
dressed and under wav before .nny nn. tT.ou<rht of Inni; . 7' v f
time it was, and so we drowsed 'on'^hroughtl- hiU ilhtl-ll
dreamed of camp fires, warm beds, and other "comfortable t^. ' "^^
mi
362
"ON Jordan's stormy baxks."
Ther. , . i - ux-sation. Pooplo do nut talk when tlioy are cold
and , uacurr, ,,. ' .sleei)y. We nodded in tlio saddle, at times, and woke
up with a start to fiiid that the procession had disappeared in the l„om
I li"' there was ener-y and attention to business until its dusky outlinea
ca.ne in sif,dit a-ain. Occasionally the order was jmssed iu a low voice
down the Inie: " Close up— close up ! Bedouins lurk here, <>vory where I"
VV Jmt an exquisite slnulder it rp"*- shivering along one's spine '
^U reached the fain u.oi oel-re fccr o'clock, and the night was so
bliick that we could have ridden into it without seeing it. Home of us
Avero in an unhappy frame of mind. We waited and waited for dayli-lit
nit It did nut come. Finally we went away in the dark and slept^m
hoar on the ground, m the bushes, and caught cold. It was a costly iiai»
on that account, but otherwise it was a paying investment because it
U'uught unconsciousness of the dreary minutes, and imt us in a .somewhat
litter inood lor a first glimpse of the sacred river.
With the first suspicion of dawn, every pilgrim took ofi'his clothes and
watied into the dark torrent, simrin";
*' On Jordan's .stormy banks I .stand,
And cast a visttul cvf
To Cfi/imir.s fair and lilipjiy land,
Wliore my po.-sc&sions liV. "
But they did not .sing long. The water was so fearfully cold that thej
w>'re obliged to stop singing and scamper out again. Then they stood on
the l)ank shivering, aii.l so chagrined and so grieved, that thev merited
honest coini.assion. Because another dream, another cherished hope, had
failed. Ihey had promised them.selves -dl along that they would cross
the Jordan where tin- Israelites crossed it when they entered Canaan from
their long pilgrinuige in the desert. They would cross where the twelve
stones were placed in men ay of that great event. While they did it
they w,^. Id pictu ,. to th. selves tlK.t vast armv of pilgrims marching
t irough ,;,(: clo\en watei-s, bearing the hallowed ark of the c venant and
shouting ho.sannahs, and singing songs of thanksgiving and praise. Each
had promised himself that lie would be the first to cross. They were at
the goal o^- tJ, -r hopes at last, but the cruTent was too swift, the water
was too cold I
It was then that Jack did them a service. With that eiKra'anfr reck-
lessness of consequences whi.! is natural to youth, and so proper and so
seemly, as well, he wr- ' and h d the wav across the Jordan, .-md all wa«
happiness again. Ev nd ,lual waded ov, then, and stood upon the
further bank. The v -r ^ not quite broas- deep, any where. If it
had been more, we co, , hanti., have accomplished the 1> at, for the strong
current would have swept us down the stream, ad we would have been
exhausted and drowned before reaching a place wht re we could make a
If.ndmg. The main object compassed, the drooping, miserable party sat
down to wait for the sun again, for all wanted to see the water as well a •
feel \t. But it was too cold a pastime. Some cans were filled from the
'■^
THE DEAD SEA,
363
very dimly. The tliickets , f l.imi;^- fi ? , , • " *"'''■ ^^'^ •^*"''>"»
them, which is rather a c^nn.lir m tm v st eti of f '^' \ ' 'T"" ""'''*'•''
not judge of the width of tie .s r^Ay t e ^i^ J'"^ 1 '"'"''
s:;"s;k::x;;.^---' ^'^'^ -y -- sim^^iLt^d^c
Uayhght came, soon after we got under wav rh.I Jn +l.« r
ho,„. „,. two .. ,.,ei,„a t,,„ i>„„3 s„. N,z,;;:i;>" ttiTS ;;':;,"
im
desert around it but weeds and the Dead Sua
iil)i)le the jjoets say
IS
abo.,tit.,l,„,,l„,^to olieer t he ove Is ''""?""""":", "I«"> it or
«„.vjt.,. It ,„»ta one t„i„k :»;.„S:i;z,,S. " '"""-""' '° "»
•luautitio, of „,|,h„l,„,„ : f,„„„ , t, „f ? i . , ' "''°';™; V >'* ' »
»."ft;«ive, the ,,iL »o,„ethi,>s orr,:. ,i«J:;,t'L:;"" "" '■""''» ^ "■'»
niinous ancient to iisn ('»?;! x- P''/l'l>pi, or any of those other
erally for th^l We'S t ot Ch^l^^^^'^ ^" *^'^ *-«' -^«-
at..riS4tS';;7h£tei^r^s:.r^^
il
I
Nil I
364
THF. DKAP SKA.
body iihovo a line dnuvn from the* corner of liis jaw past tho inidilK of
his .sido, tho iniddlo of hislc^' and thiougli tho aiKdo hono, wouhl remain
out of wat.r. Ffo could lift his head clear out, if ho chose. No position
can 1)0 letainrdhwi^' ; yon lost; your halain c and whirl over, tirst on
your back and tlion on your faco, and ho on. Von can Ho comfortably,
on your hack, with your head out, and your U%'n o\it from your knees
down, by steadying yourself with your hands. Yo\i can hit, with your
kncea drawn np to your chin an(l your arms clu-sped around them, but
you are bound to tuiii over presently, because you are top-heavy in that
position. You can stand up straight in water that is over your head,
and from tho middle of your breast upward you will not be wet. But
you can not remain so. Tlie water will soon float yoiir feet to tho sur-
face. You can not swim on your back and make any progress of any
consequence, because your feet .stick away above tho surface, and there
is nothing to prop(!l yourself with but yoiu' heels. If yo>i swim on your
face, you kick up the water like a stern-wheel boat. You make no head-
way. A horse is so top-heavy that he can neither swim nor stand up in
the Dead Sea. He turns over on his side at once. Some of us l)athod
for more than an hour, and then came out coated with sidt till we shono
like icicles. We scrubbed it ofl' with a coar.se towel and rode off with a
splendid brand-new smell, though it was one which was not any more
disagreeable than those wo have bctm for several weeks enjoying. It
■was tho variegated villainy and novelty of it that charmeil us. Halt
crystals glitter in the sun about the shores of tho lake. In places they
coat the ground like a brilliant crust of ice.
When I was a boy I somehow got the impression that the river Jor-
dan was four thousand miles long and thirty-five miles wide. It is only
ninety miles long, and so crooked that a man does not know which side
of it he is on half the time. In going ninety miles it does not get over
more than fifty miles of ground. It is not any wider than Broadway in
New York. There is the Sea of Galilee and this Dead Sea— neither of
them twenty miles long or thirteen wide. And yet when I was in Sun-
day School I thought they were sixty thousand ndlos in diameter.
Travel and exiierience mar the gi-andest pictui'es and rob us of the
most cherished traditions of our boyhood. Well, let them go. I have
already seen the Empire of King Solomon diminish to the size of the
State of Pennsylvania ; I sui)pose I can bear the reduction of the sea."4
and the river.
We looked every where, as we passed along, but never saw grain or
crystal of Lot's wife. It was a great disappointment. For many and
many a year we had kno-vvn her sad story, and taken that interest in her
which misfortune always inspires. But she was gone. Her picturesque
form no longer looms above the desert of the Dead Sea to remind tho
tourist of the doom that fell upon the lost cities.
I can not describe the hideous afternoon's ride from the Dead Sea to
Mars Saba. Tt oppresses me yet, t think of it. The sun so jjelted us
that the tears ran down our cheeks uuce or twice. The ghastly, treeless.
n
'i'HK IIKUMITS or MAKS s.vilA.
.3G5
The Hiiii had i.o,sitiv«, ,r,M,/a to it I tliinl- K ) ' ''^*"'-
under it. A 1 drouncd C J, \ in r '^ '"''*" "'""•*' ^'^ '■''•"^•f
" Wildornoss "• " "''l'''^' '''^ " *!"' «''<1<"I^'«. .Tol.ii prcMchod iu this
>viiuoino8.s . It must IiHVo hcoa fxhuiistiiiy \i.,il/ \v\ *
w].atsoevcr. P'-""'Wod to rat..- Mars Hal.,, u[n.u any pretext
thl^xt'i^^^Soy w ':::; t" i^/'^t^' ^^' ^''^^^^ >™- ^-^ ^^^
l'l<«:sed voice of \ vomnn fl '^ ^''" '^"'-^'^^'^" "*' '^ ^'^'i''' •^•- tho
sruilos- thevJrv 1-7 ' *''«y l'«\-« seen no human tears, no huiuau
Iu their e?rtn, 'i'> u,n,aujoys, no wholeson.e Juun ui so)uw
t A u r^'^,TV;;rrr*'^T;^* J''« P-t, in their hrains no drea "^f
away f^^th;/. "'in^ !i7h ' ''^'f '"'' T"'^''>'' ^^-X ^-ve put far
mul reared their relent es \v I V P '!■''" '""'■"'' ^''^''^'^'^^^'^ivx- doors
the tender gn^ ofl fc and t^^ l '!? ^''''''; ^^'^^ ^"^^^' '^'^"i«'"^'»
TJieir lips are li°s h t nov • I- " f' "'" "^-I'l^"'^ '""^ '^^""'.V '"""k«n'.
that nel-er lu.S .^^^ ," W^'! '^^1'" "l'" ' ^''^'^^^'^^ -•« 1--^^
•sweinvith the sentinrn </rT^ '"'''''*" '""^ ^'^'''•'^*--' ^^''"^^ "«ver
dead n.en who M^dk' "^ ^'^'" '^ '^"""^'•>" '"^'^ '^ «^^^-'' ^hey are
tl'yte'iZ t "e";:U -rif "^ U r " ^''?^' ^^« uatural-not because
I'ooimalirs to s/; M Tl ^^ * " '"* *^'"" ^'"^^■"- 1* i« ^'^^^y for
One's tirst thou-!u it n ^ ife ''r^'^f : '^^ ^''°^^ <^»^ ^^-"SS afterwai-ds.
to think it and none to -tol^ 1 '';"^^ "'■'"'^''^'' ^''^ '' '' "" ''•'■i"^«
none u ^^uto it down, subject to modification ly later
«:l)il- i
366
UNSELFISH C;ATH0LIC BENEVOLEN'CE.
experience. These hermits are dead men, in several respects, hut not in
all; and it is not proper, that, thinking ill of them at tii-st, I should go
on doing so, or, speaking ill of tliem I should reiterate the words and
stick to them. No, they treated us too kindly for tliat. There is some-
thing human about them somewhere. They knew wo were foreic^ners
and Protestants, and not likely to feel admiration or much friendliness
to^vard them. IJut their large charity was above considering such things.
They simply saw in us men who were hungry, and thirsty, and tired, and
that was sufticient. They opened their doors and gave us welcome. They
asked no questions, and they made no self-righteous display of their
hospitality. They fished for no compliments. Tiiey moved quietly
about, setting the table for us, making the beds, and bringing water to
wash in, and paid no heed when we said it v,-as wrong fo° them to do
that wlien we had men whose business it was to perform such offices.
We fared most comfortably, and sat late at dinner. We walked all
over the building with the hermits afterward, and then sat on the lofty
battlements and smoked while we enjoyed the cool air, the wild scenery
and the sunset. One or two chose cosy bed-rooms to sleep in, but the
nomadic instinct prompted the rest to sleep on the bvoad di ran that
extended around the great hall, because it seemed like sleeping out of
doors, and so was more cheery and inviting. It was a royal rest°we had.
When we got up to breakfast in the morning, we were new men. For
all this hos[)itality no .strict chai-ge was made. We could give something
if we chose, we need give nothing, if we were poor or if we were stim^y.
The pauper and the miser are as free as any in the Catholic Conveuts^of
Palestine. I have been educated to enmity toward everv thing that is
Catholic, and sometimes, in consequence of this, I find it* much easier to
discover Catholic faults than Catholic merits. But there is one thing 1
feel no disposition to overlook and no disposition to forget : °m\
that is, the lionest gratitude I and all the pilgrims owe, tr
the Convent t'athers in Palestine. Tlieir doors are always open,
and there is always a welcome for any worthy man who
comes, whether he con)es in rags or clad in 'purple. ' The Catholic
Convents are a priceless blessing to the poor. A pilgrim without
money, whether he be a Protestant or a Catholic, can travel the length
and breadth of Palestine, and in the midst of her desert wastes find
wholesome food and a clean bed every night, in these buildings. Pil-
grims in better circumstances are often stricken down by the sun and
tlie fevers of the country, and then their saving refuge is the Convent..
Without these hospitable retreats, travel in Palestine would be a
pleasure which none but the strongest men could dare to undertake.
Our party, pilgrims and all, will always be ready and always willing, to
touch glasses and driid.- health, pros])erity and long life to 'the Convent
iiithcrs of Palestine.
So, rested and refreshed, we fell into line and filed away over the
barren mountains of Judea, and along rockv ridges and through stfrile
gorges, where eternal silence and solifude reignel. Even the scattering'
PLAIX OF THE SHEPHERDS.
367
creatures. They ^e.f Llle of ?/''^'i .- ^^' ■^'^^^' ^'"^' ^^^^ "vin.
very like young kids hut thpvuin^-ln'lf ,"'{'' "",*.?''^''>^'- ^l^ey looked
I luue not seen ai^mals tLT/novJ f f ''''"'r' '^' ^'^ '"-^l^^'^-^^ ^ntin.
antelopes of our own^itt pt/"s "^ '''''''' ""'^'^•^ ^ ""S'^* «'-y it of the
their flocks by ni^ht e I teLfcon?,,. i *^' ^^'^l''^^'''^^'* -«'•« ^vatehing
b..ught theuf the tid- :sS t:;r ^hS' ;:^^:^^ ^-^ ^-'^ f -^ ^
ifstihed^i;:^'^ ttotr^ f t '^ '^^^^^ ^^
this mintcle. * ' ^'°'""* enchantment could avail to work
and into a ^rot^ out h^ Sf tt" tk ' ''Sf f ^" /^''^r »'-'^""'''
whore Christ was horn Asilv^-i /• fr^/^''^ ^^'^ "manger"
scription to that elfe if is rnf ? .V\ 'V^""^' ^'^^^^'^ '' ^atin in-
tions of worshiping pt,i„s ' K^^^"-^^*,^^*'^ ^he kisses of many genera-
tasteless style oLservaWe ili tl ??''? '''''' *™^^^^ «"* ^'^ ^ho usual
Church of he Holy Se m, ih onVv^ ^ /'^"'T "^ ^'l'"'^""*^- ^« "^ the
W The priestJ^nd^ ti ' ;.Zi ^of thrS^^ef "f? 7" ^P^'^^^'^^
gladden an^Uonti.r^^ JSi Lh^^Sn! r'''"f "" ^'^ ""^ J""''"'^^' to
«iany a distant land forever an i^^er ""'^f'T "^T^ '"""^"'^^ "^
theactual spot where the inCj t^^Uv ^^tlCI ' ^ f?""' ""»^^'
iuS;eS;2^t^.se^HSr^-- 1 ' ^o:;^rt!'a^- ot^r
and n^onks cou.pass 'on abo t : nd mTl ^^VT ^''^^''^ ^'^''H'^^
when you would ralher tS . f "^''^f,^"" thn.k only cf l).,cksheesh
character of the spot «ometlnng more in keeping with the
gi^S^tb;::?;.;:;i^td Jii^" 7 ;'f ^^f^-^'^ ^^'-^^^ the
for the flight into E..y t ^ ,d t'l.: f . ?,' ^l''"'-' '""' '^"^^l'^' I'^'^P^'^^d
knew we\-ere doit;!'^ t" Vw";^ "? tl^";,^^f"'«"^.^^^'^1 S^ttoe.s, an<l
packed with exceeding holy Xeln. the Hnf ', 'l- ^:, '' ^rT'' ''' ^^'«"
itself. They even have in it . Zit , "" ^^''^ ^•"'>' Sepulchre
were slaugli^recfly ft.^od Vlri !° "''*^'''-^"\ twenty thousand children
Saviour. ^ ' '"''"" ^'^ '"'''' ^'^"^"'y the life of the infant
f
li
m
m
Mf I
■Mi
MS
AFTKR THOUCiHTS,
Went to the Milk Grotto, of course — a cavern where IMary liid her-
self for a rtiiile before the flight into Egypt. Its walls were black before
she entered, but in suckling the Child, a drop of her milk fell upon the
floor and instantly changed the darkness of the walls to its own snowy
hue. We took many little fragments of stone from here, because it is
well-known in all the East that a barren woman hath need only to touch
her lips to one of these and her failing will depart from her. Wo took
many specimens, to the end that v,-o might confer happiness upon certain
households that we wot of.
We got away from Bethlehem and its troops of beggars and relic-ped-
dlers in the afternoon, and after spending some little time at Rachel's
tomb, hurried to Jerusalem as fast as jwssible. I ne%-er was so glad to
get home again before. I never have enjoyed rest as I have enjoyed it
during these last few hours. The journey' to the Dead Sea, the Jordan
and Bethlehem was short, but it was an exhausting one. Such rousting
heat, such oppressive solitude, and such dismal desolation can not surely
exist elsewhere on earth. And suck fatigue I
The commonest sagacity vv-arms me that I ought to tell the cu.stomary
pleasant lie, and say I tore myself reluctantly away from every noted
place in Palestine. Every body tells that, bu't with as little ostentation
ns I may, I doubt the word of every he Avho tells it. I could take a
<lreadful oath that I liave nevei heard any one of our forty pilgrims say
any thing of the sort, and they are as worthy and as sincerely devout as
any that come here. They will say it when^hey get home, fast enough,
but v.-]iy should t;;ey not ? They do not wish toarray themselves against
all the Lamartines and Grimcses in the world. It docs not stand to
reason that nnn avj raluctatit tj loave plaoe-i where the very lifj is almost
badgered out of thorn by importunate swarms of beggars and peddlers
whohang lustrings to one's sleeves and coat-tails and shriek ami shout
in his cars and hori'ify his vision with the gliastly sores and malforma-
tions they exhibit. One is (jhfl to get away. I have hoard shamele.ss
people say they vrcro glad to get away from Ladies' Festivals wliere they
were importuned to buj- by bevies of lovely young ladies. Transform
those houris into dusky hags and ragged savages, airl replace their
rounded forms witli slirunkeu and knotted distortions, their soft hands
with soarred and hideous deformities, and the pcr.^uasive music of their
voices with th.e discordaui'-; din of a hated language, and then, see how
much lingering reluctance to leave could bo mustered. No, it is the neat
thing to say you were reluctant, and then append tho profound thought,s
that "struggled for utterance," in your brain; but it istlie tru«> thing to
say you were not reluctant, and found it im})ossible t) thiid: at all — •
though in goodsjoth it is imt respectable to say it, and not poetical,
either.
Wo do not think, in the l.oly places; wo think in b-d, afterw.irds,
when tlie glare, and the noi.'^e, an 1 the confusion Mrego.ie, and in fancy
we revisit alone, the soleani monuments of the past, and summon the
phantom pageants of an age that has passed away.
of
CHAPTER LYI.
"W^nnvSt'^l""/^'' lioly places about Jerusalem which we Lad left
tlnJ n'Tni I "" """ journeyed to the Jordan, and then, about
tie^o cock one afternoon, we fell into procession and marched out t
ever ^^ f ""T" f *'' '^"^^'^^^ "'^"^ ^^ '^-•"^-^^"" «]u,t us oi^ fo'i^
e>ei. \\ e i.uused on the summit of a distant lull and took a fini look
g^ W ;^^ ^^^^^" "^ ''- ---^^« ^-^^y ^^^^^^^^ ^'-l ^- -era
For about four hours we traveled down hill constantly We followed
a narrow bndle-path which traversed the beds of the LuntaL ~
and when we could we got out of the wav of the long Ss of S
wir l^*.;"'""'' ■ i'y'^^''^^^^' avails of rock and havin/our le"s
bruised by the passuig freight. Jack was caught two or three°times and
Dan and Moult as often. One horse had n Lmw foil !? v '
rook. an,, the othe,, .,., „a.,w~'' ■l^t;\if ' rJlstSf^;
£l":ri:ix;:.i.sr''^' ""'• ""*'^- "■™*° "-'•"""-
Sometmies, m the glens, we came upon luxuriant orchards of fi^s
apncos, pomegranates, and such things, but oftenor the t^fnerv- was
rugged, mountamous, verdureless and forbidding. Here and thei^
sible. riuslashion is as old as RJestine itself and was adopted in
ancient times for .security against enemies. auopted in
V,-ll ?r"r'T''' *'f ^'T^' '"^'^"'^ furnished David with the stone that
killed Gohah, and no doubt we lobked upon the verv nro Ll Ti
that noU:d batt'e was fought. We passell V a 1 i urS^i f ij'Xc
ruin, whose stone pavements had rung to the anned heels of many '
w^t^lnl? T"' 'T^ '''' ''''' *^'^-^"S'^ ^ P^^^« «f country whth we
were told once knew Samson as a citizen.
We staid all night with the good monks at tJie convent of Ramleh
and in the n.ormng got up and galloped the horses a good .tf of the
distance, from thei^ to Jaffa, or Joppa, for the plain was a leveU a
floor, and as free from stones, and besides this was our irt mai-ch in
Ho y Land. These two or three hours finished, we and the fire horse
could have rest and sleep as long as we wanted it. This was the S
.f winch Joshua spoke when lie said. " y,:n, stand thou still on Gibeon
II
870
INFORMATION ABOUT JAFl'A.
and thou moon in the Valley of Ajalon." As we drew near to Jaffa,
the boys si)urred up their horses and indulged in the excitement of an
actual race— an experience we had hardly had since we raced on donkevs
in tlie Azores islands.
We came finally to the noble grove of orange-trees in which the
Oriental city of Jatia lies bu.-ied ; we passed through the walls, and rode
again down narrov/ streets, and among swarms of animated rags, and saw
other sights and had other experiences we had'long l)een familiar with.
We dismounted, for the last time, and out in the offing, riding at anchor,
we saw the ship ! I put an exclamation point there becatise we felt one
when we saw tlie vessel. The long pilgrimage was ended, and somehow
we seemed to feel glad of it.
[For description of Jaffa, see Universal Gazetteer.] Siir ni, the Tan-
ner, formerly lived here. We went to see his house. All die pilgrims
visit P^'inon the Tanner's house. Peter savr the
vision of the boasts let
down in a sheet when he lay upon the roof of Simon the Tanner's house.
It was from Jaffa that Jonah sailed when he was told to go and pro-
phesy against Nineveh, and no doubt it was not far from the town that
the whale threw him up when he .discovered that he had no ticket.
Jonah was disobedient, and of a faidtfinding, complaining disposition,
and deserved to be lightly spoken of, almost. The timbers used in the
construction of Solomon's temple were floated to Jaffa in rafts, and the
narrow opening in the reef through which they passed to the shore is
not an inch wider or a shade less dangerous to navigate than it was then.
Such is the sleepy nature of the population Palestine's only good seaport
has now and always had. Jaffa has a history, and a stirring one. It Avill
not be discovered anywhere in thi.^ book. If the reader will call at the
circulating library and mention my name, he will be furnished with
books which will afford him the fullest information concerning Jaffii.
So ends the pilgrimage. We ought to be glad that we did not make it
for the purpose of feasting our eyes upon fascinating aspects of nature
for we should have been disappointed— at least at this season of the
year. A writer in " Life in the Holy Land" observes:
" Jlonotonous and uuinvitin.!:; as much of the Holv Liuul will api.enr to persons
aocustomod to almost constant verdure of flowers, an»]do streams, and varied surface
of our own ountry, wc must remember that its aspect to the Israelites after the
weary march of forty years througli the desert must liavc lieen very dill'erent."
AVliich of all of us will frjely grant. Eufc it trnlv is "monotonous
and iminviting," and there is no sufficient reason for describing it as
being otherwise. °
Of all the lands there are for dismal scenery, I think Palestine must
be the jn-ince. The hills are barren, they arc dull of color, they are
xmpicturesque in shape. The valleys are unsightly deserts fringed with
a feeble vegetation that has an expression about it of being sorrowful and
dcrspondent. The Dead Sea and the Sea of Galileo sleep in the midst of
a vast stretch of hill and plain, wlierein the eye rests upon no pIo;U;aut
PKESENT PALKSTINE.
37!
tureis disti,ict, there hnole^^tivJ^'^Z^'''' 'f ''"''''' T'^ ^^"
spWn;:l:t^'l/::^f S/ ''' ^r' '^'" 'f-*'^l. i'^ the ndl flush of
would s^eui n cr^ tov ii=^^^^^ C^ahk.e---but evou then the.o spots
Hnuted desolation. ^ ^ '"' "' ''"^' ''''''''^' "^ *''« ^'"aste of a
ami GoinoiTah rS^ 1 Vl tit i^^M 'T'^ '^' ""T^'"'" Where Solom
Hoods tlie plain ;i*t^\ir;VT to.-ors, that soleam se,x now
whoso waviss^i^f ^ X S^! r ^'''''''^ ^'"'"^ oxists-over
nbout whose CrS^^ohr SI T '"V^' ^"f ^^^^'^^^^^^ '^'^^^ 'l^td-
Hps, but turns i^^!:^7u:'l^ ^ X^^^th'f f ?""' ^^ '"™^"'^
ford of Jordan where tho bnl . Vr , ^f '"'^ '^ ^^I'l^"'" ; -ibout that
•songs of reio cii^ onM nr , ^'^^^^ ^?f<^red Hio Promised Land with
Joshua's nxiraele lei t mo ;^n, ' ^^ l^''''^''V ""'^' '"^^^'' «^«=^ ^^»
aud Bet'.anv, in their ,o vv X n 1 1 •. .*' "^"'^^l^'' ^'-^'"''^ '^'.'^ ; Bethl ^hem
now to remind ht II '-' J;'"'^^!''^ loa, have nofchiu^ about them
Ly S;.^d wie ^^;L ti,:^^:::;^" ^''^^^^^-^'^'^ :-^'''^^^^ ''-- «-^
is untenanted bv ar v ivin t ..: ; ^^ T" VI "''"?'' -^^'^ ^^^" ^« '"^"»
is pleasant to tl^Z'^E^;^ ^1:1;^;: ^1?^ th^Tfi'f ^'^
m history, has lost all i^^ .nu.;^,,^ '- I'sau la itse.t, tli3 stateliest narno
tion of v'sitiu'r ()nV.,it.,l ^„. !i ''"^-' '/''''-' to compel the adni ra-
pride ami tu. '^^^^V t """'^''^'^l tea.p'. which wa. tho
is lifted up .above t o o.'v '"'""' ''''' '''' ""'"""'"^ "^^-^^^ent
the annals ^fSe t^o^T.^ ' '", '"* 'ne:aorable d.,y in
noted Sea :, dahlee "wtiJ llo-irm t- ^ '^' ""'^' ^'•'^^^- ^^«
und the disciples of the Haviou 2. ''■ f ZS ^ '"' ^'f''
a.qo desertec by t!ie devotees of wov o/. , ^ ■^' ^^'•'*^ ^""8
■silent wil^l.rness • C nern m,u k f 1 r"'""'''"' '"'^* ^*^ '^"'"'^^''^ ^'-^'^ »
^s VSEl":rfc !!!.^''r_^^^^^^^'^^^ !^ the homo
■he
skulking roxes. '"'"'''^'■'^ only by birds of prey and
Palestine is desolate and unlovclv \n,l ..ri,. i 1 1 •. ,
Can the curse of the Deity b^uitif-;; .±',1''^'^ "'"'"'^^ ^*^ ^'« otherwise?
Pales
:in£
IS no I lore of thi
itify .a I nid ?
and tradition— it is droam-1
s work-d
and.
ly woi-hl. [t i
■i saci-ed to pHf^fy
I
iim I
III
CHAPTER, LVII
IT was wortli a kingdom to he at sea ngaiji. It mus u relief to di-oi)
all unxiety whatsoever— all questions as to where we should go;
how long we should stay; whether it were worth while to go or not ;
all anxieties uhout the condition of the horses ; all such questions as
" Shall M-e ere?- get to water?" "Shall we ever lunch?" "Ferguson,
Iiow many more million miles haAO we got to creep under tliis awful sun
before we camp?" It was a relief to cast all these torturing little
anxieties far away — ropes of steel they were, and every one with a
separate and distinct strain u])on it^ — and feel the temporary content-
ment that is l)orn of the banishment of all care and responsibilitv. We
did not look at the compass : we did not care, now, where the ship went
to, so that she went out of sight of land as quickly as possible. When
I travel again, I wish to go in a pleasure ship. Is'o amount of money
could have ]>urcliased for us, in a strange vessel and among unfiuniliar
fiices, the perfect satisfaction and the sense of l)eing nt home a^ain which
we ex|)erienced when we stepped on board tlie " Quaker City," our
own fihip — after this wearisome pilgrimage. It is a something we have
felt always when we returned to her, and a something we had no desire
to sell.
We took off our blue woollen shirts, our s])urs, our heavy boots our
sanguinary revolvers, and our buckskin-seated jjantaioons, and <Tot
shaved, and came out in Christian costume once move. All l)ut Jack,
who changed all other articles of his dress, but clung to his travelino-
pantaloons. They still preserved their ample l)uckskin seat intact ; and
so his short pea-jacket and his long, thin legs, assisted to make him a
picturesque object whenever ho stood on the forecastle looking abroad
upon the ocean over the bows. At s\ich times his father's last injunction
suggested it.self to me. He said :
" Jack, my boy, you are about to go among a brilliant conq)any of
gentlemen and ladies, who are refined and cultivated, and tlioroughly
nccomjilislied in the manners and customs of good society. Listen to
their conversation, study their habits of life, and learn. Be polite and
obliging to all, and considerate towards every one's opinions, failings,
and prejudices. Command the just resjiect of all your fellow-voyagers,
even though you fail to win their friendly regard. And Jack — don't
jo\i ever dare, wliile yon live, appear in public on tljoso decks in fair
weather, in a costume unbecoming your mothei-'s drawing-room !"
ADVENT OF THE LOST TliinES. 373
"11, pLicKlly oonto: ;i;. "C° -jlir'^V'"' ''\'"'**'" l'»"=l' ->s
ilRiivinf-.room. oce.m_.a rare spectacle for nnv h„,]y-„
Alexandria rise into view As ^oL ? T ^'""'■' "'''' '"i'^rets of
I got a boat and ^or2S!;or^ S^^^^^^^. ^^ '"^'^', •^;^^'^ --'
passengers were content to rem.,;,, ? ° ^ '■'' *"" ■' '^"'^ *''« * ' 'x'l'
breakfast. It M-as t].o V^ t hev , H-' '"l' ''\'-' ""T"''' ^^-^1"^ ''-^'i-
lively interest in new conn ries .Z .1 ^■.''"■'^'^'"^*"^«Pl«- They took a
-orn off, and they In^Jl^r St " '^^^^^'W i-npatiencc iiad
^"^^l ,^'o along eo.nfo t. K 1 ei nl 1 ^7^.^'°'"/« t'^k« things easy,
-mU; thev^illstay^^nS^tSicfost"^"'"" '^ "^^ »^' -->'"-
cioXp j^::;;:!!;^!':,;:!^ - ^ --y of Egyptian hov. with
are the onnnln^e erf E^^ ^ ,::;f '"^^ passengers-fbr dunkeyn
have our own wav fe bov. In* ?''T^ *" ''^^"^'' ^'"^ ^^'^ ^'""l^l "ot
and slewed their onkevs e^th o ' '""' f ' ^^'^^^^'^'^-''^ ''^'^"'-l "•^.
wo turned. Thev we re 'ood ,^ f T ""T I"^***' "° "^""^^^' ^^'^'i'^''^ ^va^
We mounted, ml «^e bov i r'l • T'"*'' T^ '' ''''' ^^'^ ''onkev.^
furious gallo, , a s L f ^ hio; ' ,^S""* "^ ""'V^^'* '^'' ^^"'^'"'^•^ i'^ -
vine a donkev tha a ! be tntl^'u '"?'/'• J ^''^''''' ^ """*•' ^'^^t^'^^"
on no airs, he is uocuJ th 1 *''•' .''"'^'; "« S^oh briskly, he puts
J^Ung you eanrest yourf^et on the groZJ^Shi^^I^ru^:;-;
on signs. No other nrin.vs 1 ad tn nil A ■'"'^ *''"' '* ^'^'^'^'y ^^'I'^re
We went abroad throl.'ht ,0 ?*«!"" fT^'' *". f'^^-^'' ^ -n.e.
commercial buildin-rs and bvo ,?! 'n 1 ' """** '* ''' ^^^^ of huge
light. Bv nicdifc t w.,? i ' 'f "''«0"io streets brilliant with <.as-
.iuek fou.il ^^t::r;:::iZ'^a^Trr' ^r-- ^"^ ^^^
evening. The Aveather was verv ho t hll " "^^•^■'^^^^^"•ons for that
had seen ice-cream and so if wZ nil ! I f t^" inany a day since Jack
it shut up. ' " ' '"'"' "''"*"«« *° t^-^lk of leaving the saloon till
tiJi^irs;ts^Lrs^:iui^TT^ ^^t^^^^^^^^ -^^-^^^-^
that oftered. They went °u mc „ ^'"^"^•'' ""^* °**'^^- "P^'^ '^="-o"ches
Consul's; to the ZeZtZn^ 7^^^^ proces.sion to the Americ.au
Pillar; to the pahcroftl Vi- ^^y^'"^' ^^^^"^«^ ^o Pom,>ey'«
superb groves of Stpaln^ oZJ ^^'^F*' '"^ '^'' ^^^'' ^o the
had his hammer with^ii:;:";::;, 1^^^:"^:^^ JT'^'^'T
iNeeaiP and could not do it • he tried tlTt V"f™^''^ ^if the upright
borrowed a heavy sledge ian.t^^l ^f ,1! !!!^"*!,,r/-^^ ^!-^»^ ho
i' I
ii
borrowed a heavy sledge i:^::::^Z:: ^t^^^^^;
lU
374
THK KKLKMIl'NTKH.
tiied Poinpey's Pillar, aud this liafiied liim. Scattered all about the
niighty monolith Avere sphinxes of noble countenance, carved out of
Egyptian granite as hard as blue steel, and whose sliapely features the
^vear of llvetliousund years liad failed to mark or mar. The relic-hunter
biittered at these persistently, and sweated profusely over his Avork. He
might as v.ell have attempted to deface tlie moon. They regarded him
serenely with the stately smile they liad worn so long, and whicli seemed
to say, '• Peck away, poor insect ; we were not made to fear such as you ;
in ten score dragging ages we Jiave seen more of your kind than there
are sands at your feet : have the}^ left a blemish u])on us ?"
But 1 am forgetting the .Tafia Colonists. At Jallii we had taken on
Ijoard some foi'ty members of a very celebrated community. They were
mule and female ; babies, yoxuig boys and yoinig girls ; young married
peo})le, and some who had passed a shade beyond the priuio of life. I
refer to tlie " Adams Jafl'a Colony." Othei's liad deserted before. We
left in Jafia 31 r. Adams, his wife, and lifteen unibrtunates Avho not
only had no money but did not know Avhere to turn or whither to go.
Sucli was the statement made to us. Our forty were miserable enou<>h
in the first i)lace, and they lay aboiit the decks seasick all the voyage,
■R'liich about comiileted their misery, I take it. However, one or two
young men remained upright, and by constant persecution we wormed
out of them some little infor]nation. They gaAo it reluctantly and in a
very fragmentary condition, for, liaving been shamefully humbugged by
their pr()])het, they felt humiliated and unhappy. In such circumstances
people do not like to talk.
The colony v.as a comjjlete Jiasco. I have already said that such as
could get away did so, from time to time. The prophet Adams — once
an actor, then .several other things, afterward a Mormon and a misisiou-
ary, al\vay.>s on adventurer — remains at Jalia with his handfid of sori'ow-
ful suljects. The forty Ave brought aAvay Avith us Averc chiefly de.stitute,
though not all of tliem. They Avished to get to Egypt. What might
become of them then they did not knoAv and probably did not care
— anything to get aAvay from hated Jaffa. They had little to hope for.
Because alter many ai)peals to the sympathies of Ncav England, made by
strangers of Boston, through the noAvspapers, and after the establishment
of an office there for tlie reception of moneyed contributions I'or the
Jj,5a colonists. One Dollar was subscribed. The consul-general for
Egypt showed me the ncAvspaper paragraph which mentioned the cir-
cumstance and mentioned also the discontinuance of the effort and the
closing of the office. It Avas evident that practical Noav England Avas
not sorry to l)e rid of such visionaries and Avas not in the least inclined
to hire anybody to bring them back to her. Still, to get to Egypt, was
something, in the eyes of the unfortunate colonists, hopeless as the pros-
pect seemed of ever getting further.
Thus circumstanced, they landed at Alexandria from our ship. One of
our passengers, Mr. Mo.sc.s S. Beach, of the Ncav York Sun, inc)iiii'ed of
the consul-genei-al Avhat it Avould cost to send these j)eople to their home
Ipr
THE (IIFTED POnTEB.
:i-.5
tho\.ou**V\;:;r.^?,j;:;;:t«;'™';«.:,';t,':;"- ""' '"""^ "°" -
Alexandrii:
soon tiled of it. We took"tl
winch is an Orientii] citv and of tl
aljout it to disiil
licad tliat lu) v,
was too much like H European city to l„M>ove!, and
t. We took the cars niu] P..,i,m „.. i. .„ ■[ . .
wo
iiiieiont Cairo,
10 coinplotest pattern. There is little
cars and came up here; to
)n.so one's mind of the error if he should' tak
as in the heart of Arabia. State!
(! it into hi.s
(1 di
survived: '-'"'' "''' "^ °'^^ ■'"•'^^ ^i^^''' it in An.erica and
o{ lute y...... Ti.o Hent";; •;'; •t\ ; uS'^i'iH^Sto r /""' '"* '■'"'•"^^"•
of Win- a ^;oo,l l.otol. IV.r.iition is (mI r f h i * , " ^",''"' " ^''"y f''''^-"t d<'.'il
It was late at ni-'lit ulun 1, "i"''*; ""''' ^''"" t'"' '''■"*""■
in many pl.res-, and '^ntd v I 1 :,.'"' 'V' ""'-"■■'t ^carpeting, fade,], vorn out
sallow, .son-owlul. eonsnn, iv r t low '^n ll' ; ^' "^'^ l'e'"-t^vo iu.du.s of
8«t clis,.oura..d .nd went „ t C ,oi' r Ht it"^. in'"''' ,''t""' /"'f' 5"'ttH'''l. «"d
the ligl.t the .d.rk .sent. He .aid " O , l '^ ' '?!"' ^ "''{"^^ "' *''''* ^^"^ "-11
dueedanotliereoupleof ineus ft.l , ^ fn"^ V''""^'"'' """ '"''■''• »"'l 1"' I'ro-
havetoImve....tLeetK!.. '••' I '/li^^^ / f'.,'' "M"''' *'""' '"'tl'-I'H
darkness it.self. ][« was -i , • t 'n . > ^'"' ^'"'/''-^■■^'''t was drearier than
•'sonKnvlu.res''andsteaTn I ,^'lTrr '',"" ''""■'''• ,"'' "^''''^ ^'" ^^''^••''l S'>
design. Iheaixltheiandorl ^ul; , , T^'\'w'™"'^^^^ '''"^ '" '"« ''""'""'l
how ? " '^'' ^ "i' '^ tuu'li-lyht procession ?~ivhat /,s- 1,^, „p to, any
;;He don't like tlien, eandles-savs he wants a lanin "
earthll'r'jtln^'.Sl/i^:-,,:;---''^ ' ^^"-^^ ^"'-^ «^ -'■'' '^ thin,. What on
'\\ell lie only wants to read-thaf. what ),e sav. "
anotiier eandle
and tlien if-
the devil tliat felL
■^^|!,nI:'^'r.ri''"'V''-T^TJ"^''ll^^>™ the a— d old 1
low wants that, lamii tor? Take him
get a lamp." (A remark which 1
never made.)
:iousi"
ivn 'if l;c don't
J if*
li I
i
;i7C
THK GIFTED I'OnTE'.f,
"I'd like to see him .it once. Wdl, you Ink. k along-l.nt I sweiir it beats m?/
tiriT'laiin ^ "" ''''" ^'°" "'""^ ''"'^ ""' '"'"'^ '" *''" ^■'■''■^' '""''"' ''" "'""'■* ^"''^
And 1... went off growling to Jiimself an.l still won.lerin- <md wondcTin- over the
unaccounud.le (-nduct of No. 15. Tl... lan.i, Mas a f?ood one, but it r,,.v,^ilod son e
disn-reeaMothings-a l,>;d in the suburbs of a desert of aroom-a bed thai ha<l hills
and valleys in it, and you d have to aeconiniudate your bnlv to the iniiiressiou left
n It by the niuu that slept there last, before you eould lie ronitbrtably; a can.et that
JiQd seen better .lays ; a inelaneholy washstaud in a remote corner, and a d.'jeeted
pitcher on It sorrowing over a broken nose; a looking jdass split a, ross the eentre.
whieh ehopped your head .,1 at the eliin. and ma do you l„ok like some dreadful un-
linished monster or other ; the paper pealing in shreds from th.' wall
Isi-hed and said, "This is charming ; and now don't y.m think von could get
mo soiiiellung to read? ' ''
The porter said, "O (■ertninly ; the old inan'.s got dead loads of books;" and he
was gone before I could tell lam what sort of literature I would rather have Vud
yet Ills countenance cxpiessed the utmost conli.lence in his ability to exeeuto'the
commission with credit to himself. The old man made a descent oil him.
\\hat are you going to lo with that pilj of books .' "
" Fifteen wants em, sir.'
" Fifteen, is it / He'll want a warming-pan next— he'll want a nurse! Take him
everything there IS in the liouse-take him the bar-keeper-take Jiim the baggaffo
wagon— -take him a ehamlier-maid ! Confound me, I never ' "
saw
anything
he wants to eat 'em,
infernal
'ike it.
1 dont
lunatic.
ust go a-rairia and
no tellin' what he
and desperate, and
What did he say he A\-ant,s with those books ? "
" Wants to read 'em, like enough; it ain't likely
recl(,.-i, "
■■,.\'>^K'''''^ *" '■'-''''^ 'em— wants to read 'em this time of ni-ht,
l\i.'1i,u.; can't have them." ■'
'■■ \h)': he says he's mor'ly bouml to have 'em ; he's says h ''11
a-.-..,'.r,fi-...i'througlithis house, and raise more well, there's
won tdoif he don't get 'em ; i,e.;ause h(;'s drunk and crazv
notb i/r.; 11 soothe him down but these cussed books. " [1 had iiot made any 'threat's."
and was not in the condition ascribed to me liy the porter.]
" " J-'^'' fe'" ""' ^'^^^ I ^^''" 1^0 around when he goes to rairing and char^iii"'. and the
hrstrair he makes, I'll make him rair out of tlie window." An 1 theil the old
gentleman went olf, growling as before.
The genius of that porter was something wonderful. He put an armful of l)o„k
on the bed and said " Good night" as coulidently as if he knew perfectly well th u
those books werfl exact y my style of reading matter. And well he nii-ht. His
selection covered the whole range of legitimate literature. It comprised " The Great
Consummatmn by the Rev. ])r. Cummings-theology ; Eevised Statutes of the State
of Missouri -law ; "The Complete Horse-Doetor"-medicine ;
the Sea, by Victor Hugo— romance ; '""'■- -•"■-' <- -„r.„.
poetry. I shall never cease tj admire
porter.
The Toilers of
"The Works of William Shakespean"-
the tact and the intelligence of that gifted
But all the donkcy.s iu Christendom, and most of the E,'yptiau boys,
1 think, are at the door, and there is some noise going on, ir)t to put it
in stronger language. We are about starting to the illustrious Pyramids
ot iigypt,and the donkeys for the voyage are under inspection. I will go
and select one before the choice animals are all taken.
C II A P T
L\ III.
Somo were closo-sliavon .ill r>xJ, ^^^^lo \\i(ite, hliick, and van-coloml.
was left ontlt eu of i^! jr UhS w "'' '' V"' ^'''' ^. P'-'t-brusl.
scape garden imtterns as to n "nvJ /, i T '" •""''■'" "^ ^'"^^^^''^ l"'"'"
by the shears. Sv ] ad U . ^n T '"','''''!" "^^^ ^''^^ ^'*^^« P'^^^' ^^^
stvlisl, Sev;ral of tl e -1 1 "^'^^'^^ '^^"'''ored, and .vere exceedingly
stripos of bll Ll'f J' *,^j,3^, '\''^ '^^"7^'l like zebras .ith rainbow
^eois. Dan and Ja k ^'^ll^nUn. w")"' ^^^^ |"^---"-^Wy gor-
Italian reminiHconoes of tlu '• ok ma e" " t''""5 ^'"' ^''''''■^}'' ^''^
stuffy, fro<r-shaned tl.in.r^ t. i f''*'*^^'^ ^Tiie saddles were the high,
key and kL. 1dm n -c-ur r ba^f ^'^' '"' ra seals who could follow a don-
of sp^tators'wh.: w;\ri;ted t^; Jj^; ^^^^f Tv^ ''"'Y
bound overland to India and offers I^^ it readt for tL X? • '^^ ^'""^'^'
t'-Mgn against the Ahv««!, „•.,., ,..''* »;-""\ 'f''^"} loi' the African cam-
lar|» ,,„Tty, I'u? Lt^'^h : , ttl?,,, , r,;' "X,,::? 7- ""' ■' vcy
pohs, we made noise for fiv^. I,„,,^ '" \"" ''^^^ts of the great metro-
exci^: ,ent L nrwt on ^J-n ?'''^ ''""^ displayed activity and created
offered to the .lonkeys a o^^^^^^^^^ '""^ «T^. *'""i' ^'^^'^ ^l"-^*
became a wild ro« 'stampede Ttl' f "^'"-^ "^*^'' *^°^° ^"^^^ *'^^ '"^^'^
it again. stampede, a terrihc panic. I wish to live to enjoy
oiSsst^di:^^ I :MZ::Jr\^ r ^^-^^-^^ -^-^itions of
the g.-eat thioug^..) ^^ J^i^ ^J t^jj^^l^.^ "^^::X^^^"?
nine, in reality. Occa.sionally we saw stark-naked men of
i
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y, 14580
(716) 872-4503
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378
DISTANT VIEW Ol' THK PYRAMIDS.
superb build, bathing, and niakin^' no attempt at concealment. How-
ever, an hour's acquaintance \\ith this cheerful ci..,toin reconciled the pil-
grims to it, and tlien it ceased to .occasion remark. Thus easily do even
the most startling novelties grow tanu; and si)iritles.s to these sight-
surfeited wanderers.
Arrived at Old Cairo, the camp-followers took uj) the donkeys and
tumbled them bodily aboard a small boat with a lateen sail, and "we fol-
lowed and got under way. The deck was closely packed with donkeys
and men ; the two siiilors had to ciimb ovei- and under and through tlu?
wedged mass to work the sails, and the steersman had to crov.-d four or
five donkeys out of the way when he wished to swing his tiller and put
his helm hard-dov/n. But Avhat were their troubles to us ? We lisid
nothing to do ; nothing to do but enjoy the trip ; nothiiu; to do but
shove the donkeys oft" our corns and look at the chai min" sceue-v of the
Nile. :/
On the isl'uul at our right was the machine they call the Zls ilometer, a
stone cohnnn whose business it is to mark the rise of the river and pro-
phecy whether it will reach only thirty-two feet and produce a famine,
or whether it will properly Hood the hind at forty and produce J'lenty, or
whether it v/ill rise to forty-three and bring death and destruction to
flocks and croi)S — but how it does all this they could not explain to us,
so that we could understand. On the same islar 1 is still shown the
sjiot where Pharaoh's daughter found Mo.ses in the bulrushes. "Near
the spot we sailed from, the Holy Family dwelt when they sojourned in
Egypt till Herod should complete his slaughter of the innocents. The
same tree tliey rested under when they tirst arrived, was there a short
time ago, but the Viceroy of Egypt sent it to the Emjjrcss Eugenie
lately. lie was just in time, otherwise our pilgrims would have had it.
The Kile at this point is muddy, sv.ift and turljid, and does not hick
a gieat deal of being as -s^ide as the Mississij.pi,
We scrambled up the steei* bank at the shabby town of Oliizeli.
nicuntod the donkeys again, and scampered away. ' For four or five
miles the route lay along a high embankment which they saj- is to be
the bed of a railway the Sultan means to build for no other reason than
that when the Empress of the French comes to visit him she can go to
the Pyramids in comfort. This is tnu; Oriental hosi)itality. I am \ cry
glad it is our privilege to have donkeys instead of cars.
At the distance of a few mile^i the Pyramids rising above the palms,
looked very clean-cut, very grand and imposing, and very soft and lilmy,
as well. 'J'hey swam in a rich haze that took from theui all suggestions
of unfeeling stone, and made them seem oidy the airy nothings of a dream
— structures which might blossom into tiers of vag\ie arches, or ornate
collonuades, may be, and change and change again, into all graceial forms
of architecture, while we looked, and then melt deliciously away and
blend with the tremulous atmosphere.
At the end of the levee we left the mules and went in a sail-boat
across an arm of the Nile or an o\erllow, and landed where the sands of
THE ASCENT.
;!70
Arabs w„„ .,„..ea ^1^ '^iis ; i"! t" ;7"£';^:^''f;r "t'
are. Of course vnn f-nnlri „ ti ""•v^"',-, i-s to tlin to i— all toiinsts
contracted wit], the n mul f 1 *''*■ :>«"'^1 routine. Ol' courso w„
ratine, ]ac«ratin.. m n^ S ./ " ' '"^' ''^•'' '^ '"^ "«' 'i^^''^- -xhila-
bIesse,la)>ov.u,n, a a!toMt^>^ 7' ""^ 't1 ""^ "'' ^ """^^^ ^^"^
econoniy to wreck and n'b """'"""' '" '"'''' ''^y ^^-^ 1-1'tical
Twice, fur one uiiiuitc. tliev Ift i >-. i.,.^'. , i m n •
sweet consolatic.ri Vn ?hZTi\ , tliis dark hour I had a
laiiiu. I 01 I know tlmt <.xcept these .Afohammcdans re-
i!M
III
lit
■I
I
i I
380
AN AKAB KXPLOIT.
pento'l tJiey would go straight to perdition some day. And the>j never
repent— tl)cy never forsake their i)agani.sni. This tliouglit calmed me,
cheered me, and I sank down, limp and exhausted, upon the summ'.t, but
liapjiy, so hajjjjy and serene within.
On the one hand, a mighty sea of yellow sand stretched away toward
the ends of the earth, solemn, silent, shorn of vegetation, its solitude
uncheered l)y any forms of creature lif" ; on the othur, the Eden of
Egypt was spread below us— a broad green floor, cloven by the sinuou.s
river, dotted with villages, its vast distances measured and marked by
the dnmnishing stature of receding clusters of palms. It lay asleep in
an enchanted atmosj)here. There was no sound, no motion. Above tho
date-phnr.cs in the middle distance, swelled a domed and itinnacled mass,
glimmering through a tinted, ex(iuisite mist; away toward the horizon a
dozen shapely ])yramids Avatched over ruined Meinphis : and at our feet
the bland imi)assible S])hynx looked out u2)on the picture fi-om her
tlirono in_ the sands as i)lacidly and pensively as she had looked upon its
like full fifty lagging centuries ago.
We suffered torture no ]ien can describe from the hungry appeals for
bucksheesh that gleamed from Arab eyes and jwured incessantly from
Arab bps. Why try to call nj) the traditions of vanished Egyptian
grandeur; why try to fancy Egypt following dead .Ramcses to his tomb
m the Pyramid, or the long multitude of Israel departing over the
desert yonder? Why try to think at all ? The thing was impossible.
One must bring his meditations cut and dried, or else cut and dry them
afterward.
^ The tradifional Arab proposed, in the traditional ly, to run down
Cheoi)S, cross the eighth of a mile of sand inter-. -' between it ard
tlie tall pyramid of Cejjhron, ascend to Cephron's su-mit and return to
us on the top of Cheops— all in nine minutes bv the watch, and the
wliole service to bo rendered for a single dollar. " In the first flush of
irritation, I said let the Arab and his exploits go to the mischief. But
stay. The upper third of Cephron was coated with dressed marble,
smooth as glass. A blessed thought entered mv brain. He must infal-
libly break his neck. Close tho contract witirdisimtch, I said, and let
him go. He started. We watched. He went Ijounding down the vast
broadside, spring after spring, like an ibex. He grew smalx and smaller
tilU he became a bobbing pigmy, away down towaid the bottom— then
disappeared. We turned and peered over the other side — forty seconds
—eighty seconds— a hundred— happiness, he is dead already' two
minutes— and a quarter— "There he goes !" Too true— it was too true.
He was very small, now. Gradually, but surely, he overcame the level
ground. He began to spring and climb again. Up, up, up— at last he
reached the smooth coating— now for it. But he clung to it with toes
-Jind fingers, like a fly. He crawled this way and that— a\\-ay to the
right, slanting upward— away to the left, still slanting upAvard— and
.Rtx)od at last, a bla k peg on the summit, and waved his pigmy soaif !
Then he crept downward to the raw steps again, then i)icked up his agile
A\ AUAB EXPLOIT.
381
Iieel 4 and flew Wn l.^tf i •
l^im under us;n.ou;:tiS*J;;;;\.E;^^^^ again M-e saw
eel in., our n.idst witl.7. ftul LT 1^- vhoo T'-" •'' """^ ^' ^«""''-
one seconds. He ],ad won Hi! Lr ^ ^""''' ^^'^li* minutes, forty-
I i-eflected. I said o mZlf l!J s tTl ''"T '''''""'■ ^' "''''' '^ f-il^''^-
risk another dollar on Lhn ' ' ''"^^ '""'* SI•o^v di..y. J .^m
co^:.^l.Std £'^ ^;:; *;^^X"- «^Wea on the su.ooth
was with us once more-nerfeft v sou 1 T' "'"'■'? '"''^^' ^'""- ^e
SIX seconds. J tuectly sound. lime, eight minutes, forty-
seconds. I was out of «I1 . f^ """' '^^'^'^'^ "unutes, forty-eiffhfc
wasnolong.r.i^,i::;*el^,^^^-^^ ^ I -s d^pei.te.-il^
hundred dollans to juni.. off t Ws ,tr,. • ] i ' , i""''^^'' ^ ^'H give you a
the terms, name youi t I co r^'i T^ ^'''- ^^' '^^^ ^" '^^'^ like
stay right here a,ii risk money on you ^^f^'^T ''"'''■ ' ^^
I was in a fair way to win now ft ."f ^ , ? ^'"' »''* '^ ^<^»*-"
an Arab. He pondered a i on oTt' ! '^"f/V'"'^^"'' opportunity for
lus mother arri ed, t7,e I H^If ' ' ''Z^'^ ^'''''' ^'"'^^ i^, I think^ but
can look upon the to!:i^ift;^^^,,^ ^^'^"'^ "^TV^ "--^ "ever
give her a hundred dollars to^un;; off too '""'~""^ ^ ""^^ ^ "°"^^*
Pu^: If: in:i^i:;;- JtSct^t :: *- ^^^'^-^--' - ^-l- They
andweti?reS,!;to;:t:ni^i::?-tj^-^-^^^ '^^ -^^"-.
crazy rabble of Ara'-. who tlm,!^ ^^1 Vp-^nml, attended by a
They dragged us up a long tl.trclul'";nTT-" T" T? """^•^^^'^•
over us. This chute was not n n^ 1 ' . "^'^'^'' candle-grease all
Saratoga trunk, and was "v il lee n o od nd i""'T -7^^^ ""'' '''■'^^' '>« -
Egyptian granite as wide a a tinho ; T "'^ ^-'^'^ •'^"'^'' ^''"^''^ of
as long, "we kept o cHntbi i '' T'^l^ "' '^"'^^^ ""'"'^ *^"'^'« ^i"^««
thought we ought to be n^;^ Set^^!?'^/'" ^i'l^-^f^^^ gJ-'n, till I
came to tl,.o '^Queen's -Imnber '' Z l n ^''■""""' '-'''''' "»'' ^''^^^
King. These krge apar^;Ztr;e;r Lu " ^^'^ the Chan.ber of the
monstrous masses of smoothed Ln- nn^ , o .i' • \ ''■"^'' ''""« ''"'^^ of
them were nearly as lar.^ C;^ '"'; Tr '' "'"""' ^"■^"^''^^^'•- '^^^"^^ ^f
sarcophagus like a bath-tub Tto^d h Z T'^' T^^'"- ^^ ^'''-^t «t«^'i«
Around it were gathered Lptt^Ln,'^ '' ''/l '^^^ ^^'"^^'^ ^"'=""1^''^.
and tattered pilgi-in,s, who ZT^TT " i^''^-^' '^"''^°^"''^ «'"^ «<>il«<l
theyeluUtereVandthewLkin/iS Z:^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^i^ ^''-» while
upon one of tho irrepressible mem nA f ^ 1''^ '' '^"" ■'^^"••>' 'i^^^ui
i,lat™„„. „„,r,,„i,| tliem WHh if ■"■'' ''■>' """I''""' 'l"»"» '"I'l
if
.182
STRATKOY.
of before — and as each party was paid, they «lroj)i)eJ into the rear of the
proceasicii and iu due time arrived again with a newly-invented delin-
ipient lint for liquidation.
We lunched in the shade of the pyramid, and in the midst of this en-
croaching and unwelcome company, and then Dan and Jack and I started
away for a walk. A howling swarm of beprgars followed us — surround-
ed us — almo.'it headed us off. A sheik, in liowing white bournous and
gaudy head-gear, was with them. Ho wantc^d more bucksheosh. But
we had adopted a new code — it was m.ilions for ilofense, but not a cent
for bucksliccsh. 1 asked liim if he could persuade the others to depart
if we paid him. He, said yes — for ten francs. We accepted the con-
tract, and said —
" Now persuade your vassals to fall back."
He swung his long staff round his head and three Arabs bit the dust.
He capered among tlio mob like a very maniac. His blows fell like
hai], and wherever one fell a subject went down. W^e liad to hurry to
the rescue and tell Jiiin it was only necessary to damage them a little, he
need not kill them. In two minutes we were alone witii the .sheik, and
remained so. The persuasive poweivi of this illiterate saviigc were
renuirkable.
Each side of the Pyramid of Cheoi)s is about as long as the Cai)itol
at Washington, or the Sultan's new palace on the IJosphorns, and is
longer than the greatest depth of St. I'cter's at Rome — which is to say
that each side of Cheops extends seven hundred and some odd feet. It
is about sioventy-tive feet higlier than the cross on St. Peter's. Tlie first
time I ever went down tli(! Mississi[)pi, I thought the highest bluff on
the river between St. Louis and New Orleans — it was near Selma,
Missouri— was ]n-obably t'le highest n>oiintain in the world. It is four
hundred au;l thirteen feet high. It sdll looms in my memory with un-
diminished grandeur. I can see the trees and bushes growing smaller
and smaller as I followed them up its huge slant witii my eye, till they
became a feathery fringe on the distant summit. Tliis symmetrical
Pyramid of (,'heop.s — this solid mountain of stone reared Ijy tiie patient
liands of men— tliis miglity tomb of a forgotten monarc!i — dwarfs my
cherislied mountain. For it is four hundred and eighty feet higli. In
still earlier years than those I have been recalling, llolliday's Hill, in
Qur town, was to me the noblest wor'c of God. It appeared to pierce
the skies. It was nearly thi-ee hundred feet high. In those days I
pondered the subject much, but I never could understand why it did not
swathe its summit with never-failing clouds, and crown its majestic brow
with everliisting snow.^. I had heard t'.iat sucli was the custom of gre;it
motuitains in other parts of the world. 1 remeniber^d how I worked
with anotlicr boy, at odd afternoons stolen f n m study and paid for with
stripes, to undermine and start from its bed an immens3 boulder that
rested u])on the edge of that hilltop ; I romembere 1 how, one Saturday
afternoon, wo gav^ three hours of hone it eiibrt to the task, and sa v at
la.':t that our reward was at hand ; I remembered how we sat down, then,
I'llF. MAJKSTK; Si'HVNX.
and wipnd tlie perspiration
out of tlio way ia tlie road
was splendid, ft ^vent (
mowing biKsliea down lik
tir
away, and waited to lot
I)el
'Ow---:ind then we started tl
383
l>ioaic party got
■ent crashing down the liill-sid
le boulder. It
e ffi-ass, rii.
foot of the h, 1, and then sprang from tl
ipi'ing and crushing and
e, tearing nj) sajjlings
scattered a
sniashi
Mir over'
in the road — tl
10 negro looked
1" liigh bank cl
wood pile at tl
lie
lear over a dray
-acle infinitesin^al mi;;;Z r /T fZ.'''~r' *''^ "^^^ ^--l^
«warmed out like bee.. Then we s.id > "'''^'"'' f''^.' '"''^ ^''« '^^^W^s
left. l]03cause the coopers wa" ar , ! IT ^uT^^' '""^'ni'ieent, and
^Stdl, that mountain, i.rodi 4, L 'S "1' *^'^' ^"" *« «»q"i''o.
of cjicops. I could o^i;^^;" '";; ts^':/''?'''"^ *^^ ^''* ^^^-'-i
'"ind a satisfactory oomprehe, o of S ' " -^ ''""^^' ^^'^^'^T to my
.sf.rou3 stones that^covered thi len are nf r^'"*^'' ?^ '" '^^^^ "^ ^^^^l
sof r:i':;::,:L:s:;1^^^^^^^^ -/-. The great tUee was
earth ,n it.s mien, and in Its^^oun en nee . 1 •'"" "'''' '' '"■^'"^^>' "^t of
tlung human wore. Ifc was s one .t i °"''r"'''' '^^ "^'^•^'^' --^"y
"nago of stone thought, it ^vl. th uHn". V'''"'''] '^^"tient. If evl
voip of the landsc.5.0 yet ?oHri > r' h' ^'"^ ^^-^.^'''S toward the
and vacancy. It was lookin Jovi u d 1 - '" •^~''' "^' ^"' '^'"'^''''^
and far into the past U wT. .., • ^ "^ "^ everything of the present
of eo.tu.y-wavesVinch,'^,X?^^ d'f^lX " ''T '' ^"—vcS
nearer together, and blended a a in ' o ^ '7'^TS' closed nearer and
the horizon of remote anticnut It w .fT ,"1'"" *"'«' '^^^''^y toward
.•^ges ; of the empires it had se/m cie ^1 " i '?^ "^ '^' ''''''' of departed
wJuse birth it 'had witnesse l.w ;f llt^'"^ of the nluions
annihilation it had noted • oft .V^ T' "''''' '* ^^^'^ watched, whose
g-ndenr and decay, of li^ellS '!;;;;--;•' .^'- ^''^ --' <^- h U e
tyi.e of an attribute of man-or" f cu tv nf ^''f ^'''''- ^' ''■'' «'«
I;f f "r"''-^^'='''«°«^'^''"ox-m.ou.?t t?! ^"' ■\'?"-' '^'^•^ ''■•^"»- It
^11 who know what j)-.fhn« +?.. \'""«"t into visible, tan-vible form
pH^hed and faces ^.^i^J^^:^ '^''1 "' ''^^^ t'-^a;e a^mi
gone by-will have some appiwTont Tl^' l^i'^'"'^'"" •^'^"'"^ -^^ vears
grave eyes that look so «tea!lLSy IneJc fn on .^^ '^''\ ''^^"^'"'^ "^ "^'^o^e
iiistory M-as born-before Traditio Jk"*^^' ^\?.^' '''^^ ^'^''-^^ '^efore
forms that moved, in a vag.'e or \v! id T'^^p""-'' *'^'^*^ ^^'«^-«' ^nd
•scarce know of-and passed oae bv one' u, ', FT^'^ '"'^ ^^omance
so hury in the midst if a stra ^el?v ^cfe i f/l ""' '^'^^ *^f '^^""^^ ^'— r
ilioSphynx is g,and in its lo i Ji S. ^•"'^'"P''''""''^^^! ^'^^nos.
t cle; itis impressive in the my er^^^r^^^ '^ ^'"Posing in its magni-
1 ere IS that in the overshadowing mi l of t"'' ?"'' ?'? ''^'y- -^"^^
^vith Its accusing memory of the deedfof ^.n '^T"'"' ^S'u-e of stone,
.something of what he shall feci when 1 5 f,!"^'' ^^^"^*' '-^'eals to one
presence of God. ''^'''" ^'^^ ^^''^^ «t^nrl at last in the awful
384
THINGS I SHALL NOT TELL.
There are some things which, for the credit of America, should be left
unsaid, perhaps ; but these very things happen sometimes to be the very-
things which, for tlio real benefit of America, ought to have prominent
notice. While -we stood looking, a wart, or an excresence of some kind,
appeared on the jaw of the Sphynx. We heard the familiar clink of a
hammer, and understood the case at once. One of our well-meaning
reptiles — I mean relic-hunters — had crawled up there, and was tryin^
to break a " specimen" from the face of this the most majestic creation
the hand of man has wrought. But the great image contemplated the
dead ages as calmly as ever, unconscious of the small insect that was
fretting at its jaw. Egypthan granite that has defied the storms and
earthquakes of all time, has nothing to fear from the tack-hammers
of ignorant excursionists — highwaymen like this specimen. He failed
in his enterprise. We sent a sheik to arrest him, if he had the authoiity,
or to warn him, if he had not, that by the laAvs of Egypt the crime he
was attempting to commit was punishable with im]irisonment or the
bastinado. Then he desisted and went away.
The Sphynx : a hundred and twentv-five feet long, .sixty feet high, and
a hundred and two feet round the head, if I remember rightly — carved
out of one- solid block of stone, harder than any iron. The block must
have been as large as the Fifth Avenue Hotel before the usual waste
(by the necessities of sculpture) of a fourth or a half of the original mass
was begiin. I only set down these figures and these remarks to suggest
the prodigious labor the carving of it so elegantly, so symmetrically, so
faultlessly, must have cost. This sj)ecies of stone is so hard that fig'ures
cut ill it remain sharp and unmarred after exposure to the weather for
two or three thousand years. Now did it take a hundred years of
patient toil to carve the Sphynx 1 It seems probable.
Something interfered, and we did not visit the Red Sea and walk upon
the sands of Arabia. I shall not describe the great mosque of JVIehemet
Ali, whose entire inner Avails are built of polished and glistering alabas-
ter; I shall not tell liow the little birds have built their nests in the
globes of the great chandeliers that hang in the mosque, and how they fill
the whole place with their music and are not afraid of any body because
their audacity is pardoned, their rights are respected, and nobody is
alloAved to interfere with them, e^en though the mosque be thus doomed
to go unlighted; I certainly shall not tell the hackneyed story of the mas-
sacre of the Mamelukes, because I am glad the lawless i-ascals were mas-
sacred, and I do not wish to get up any sympathy in their behalf; I shall
now tell hoAv that one solitary Mameluke jumped his horse a hundred
feet down from the battlements of the citadel and escaped, because I do
not thinlc much of that— I could have done it myself; I shall not tell of
Joseph's well which he dug in the solid rock of the citadel hill and which
is still as good as new, nor how the same mules he bought to draAv up
the water (with an endless chain) are still as it yet and are getting tired
of it, too; I shall not tell about Jose})h's granaries which he built to
store the grain in, what time the Egyptian brokers were " selling shorty"
oukl be left
bo the very
I prominent
' some kind,
r clink of a
ell-meaning
was trying
itic creation
nplated the
ct that was
atorms and
5k-haumiers
He failed
3 authority,
le crime be
ent or the
t high, and
ly — carved
block must
isual waste
igiual mass
1 to suggest
strically, so
hat figures
veather for
id years of
walk upon
f ]\tehemet
ng alabas-
ists in the
'W they fill
dy because
nobody is
us doomed
)f the mas-
were mas-
ilf ; I shall
a. hundred
lause I do
not tell of
and whicli
o draw up
tting tired
B built to
ng shorty"
onAN'n oi.i> r.r.wT.
;;::::tnh:r tic::' ^zn:^^ ;;" '- /-^ -''- i^ ^'..^..m t
strange city of Ci,,,, beoa'ust i o t ' '"'•''"'« ''^'^"•'t ^J'^' «t.-au.»e
I l>d not SCO it ; nor of the fash in. h^^. , ' ^^''''''" ^^'''•y .V^f. for
solves and so formin,. a uATuZ ^'""^'^' ^"''''' "^ P^'o^^^-'^tiil^ thrm-
ff of the oxpeditiZu r^'u ^^^^^X^r:^^^'^; '^''^^ --•%■ the
thus .^.c,u-e,l, for I did not so ' L.t o ■ T ;'*.^'""" ''"^'''^''''' '"'">'
ulway, fur it is liko anv other ra it v T , n ""'^ ''"'"^ ''^' ^'*'^'
they t.se for the locuu.otiVe i.s con ose<fo"^.n; • °" ' ' ''^' ^''''^ *''^' ^"^'1
ohl, purchased by the ton or bv he ~^ ^ "•^" thousand yoar.s
fionu. „nes one hears the profane on- W/V I "'"* '""■''^'■^'^' '"'<' ^hat
plebe.a,>s, they don't bur t av^ ■ h ^i, ' ''' ^'"t I'^ttishly, "D-nfh.se
tell of the ,n-oups of nu,d co^s Vt ,e ^ jT "'": ^'" '^ '^'■V-?;"* T shall not
nounds above Int^di water-marl: tl , , , . f, '''''\' "!'"» '"^ ^'"'"■^'^nd
lages of tho lov.-or clas^o- . V , i . ^" '' ""'' ''••P-i'lth of E.rv„t— vil
level plain, gre.n .Wth h,;:u i T l.^l: ^1^ f.^^ l..>nn.Ilo.r^i4,; J
can pioroe tlu'oudi the soft vi ,.;■;' f "l;"l''^'n-s the eve as fur as it
of the vision of tlJ"^^^^ ^^f^^^^^^^ I «imll not s^^-k
miles, for tI,o picture is too ter'T.. 'V''''*""?" ^*' ^"^ '^'"I tw -ntv
I .shall not til of the crow ^ of dusK wn"' ' ■' ''? ""'"'^l'"-' I"""'
caivs .vhcn they stopped a momni, t . 'I?''"'" ^^'^'^ ^'"^'k^l to' the
% nmbitudcs .ud wihl V4un es tl ^t^ . , i ""^ '<''' ^*" ^''« '""t-
full hlast at anoth<.r barbarou s ' t on T fT^ '' ^""" '''' ^'"'"^1 in
pn frosh dates au<l <u,joved he li e ,s,, Vl t"'' '"'^ **-'" ^"^^^^ ^^"^ f^^'^ted
out of the ears, rowed aboard the bin k4 ''"'V f , •'• '^'^^'^
to return to Europe, thence hou^^;.^^'!^"'^' '^"^^^^^'^ > (^ho ^,,
lows homeward finally and foreve fi,.; 1 ' ' '"''"''' ""^' ^""''^'^ «"''
the mellow sun .ven doM-n u,Hn VoIuVT^ ^"y'-^ ' ^'Or ],ow, as
Moult assembled i. solen,n L^St "^n S ™ ''^'^'' '^'^''^ ''"^»
the ost conn-ade the whole i. 'hVlon . 'h '^7'"' '""^^ ^"•^'"•'^^'J «ver
fall not s],eak a word of any of 't ^f ' '' •'"* ^'" con.forted. ]
he as a sealed book. ^ I do ";^m;^ S f ' '' "i^'t '^ '""^- ^^^^^ ^'^'^H
never saw one, but a scaled 1 Lk ^h oxl' -'"'f '""'^ ^«' ''^-^"'^^e I
tion, because it is popular expression to use in this connec-
^^^^^^^:^Z'sz:^V!i^ tiV^-'^^ ^!'--'- «^^i^i'-
through IJonu. the wo.'ld ; t h^ am ^I ^'''-'l^^ ^''''^ ^o»'e, and
en. ued the haple.. children 5 I " 1 1 t^ll "" i"" ^—"-d and
her borders little better than saA. 4; ' '"'^ «'^''*'/^?"^ ^"^ '^'^l"^^'* «"tof
I^nd winch had an enlightened relig. .^^ ^^^i;;!;: j'^^ ^^ ^''^J
... . vii^-iji.u icuarcis and
£i'l*^.""!''^^^"t- I only ton it
I
wn DL'heve aiiytl
uiiff.
'i"* I got it, J
• '.a willinti
'0 WI
'>n
leve it. I
SHC)
(illANn OLD K(iYPT.
Ituiiishiaciit ill it, wliiki vvtni li-vael's rtiliyiou oontainod no jiromis;^ of a
lion!iift«u\ Wc wore gliul to liiivo soon that land \vliieli had glasn throo
thousand years before Enj,daiid had it, and could paint iipjii it as iiono of
us can paint now ; that land which know, three thousand years ajjo,
well nijL,'ii all of medicine and surgery which science has (liscorereil lately ;
wliich had all those curious surgical instinunents which science has in-
vented lately ; which had in high excellence a thousand luxuries and ne-
cessities of an advanced civilization which wo have gradually contrived
and accuimilateil in modern times and claimed as things that were under
the sun ; that had jiaper vuitold centuries before we <lreanipt of it — and
waterfalls before our women thought of them ; that had a perfect system
of common schools so long bofory wo boasted of our achievcMiicuts in that
direction that it seems forever and forever ago ; that so emlialmed tho
dead that ilesli was made almost immortal — which we can not do ; that
built tenij/les which mock at destroying time and smile grimly upon our
lauded little prodigies of architecture ; that old land that knew all wliich
we know now, iiercliance, and more ; that walked in the broad highway
of civilization in tli« gray dawn of creation, ages and ages before we were
born ; that kift the impress of exalted, cultivated Miml upon the eternal
front of the Sphynx to confound all scofiers who, when all her other
])roofs had passed away, might seek to persuade the world that imperial
Egypt, in tlie days of her high renown, had groped in darkness.
ieii
omis.' of a
!,'lass thvco
; ivH uono of
years ngo,
<:re(l lutt'ly ;
ICQ liiis in-
ics and ne-
V coiitrivocl
w'crci iimler
of it — and
f(!ct syst(!ni
'uts ill that
lialiiu'd tlio
)t do ; that
y ii]ioii our
V all M'liifh
id liigliway
iro we were
the eternal
her other
at iniiierial
iS.
CIIAPTJCJJ Lix.
WH were at Koa now, fur a \,'v^r l ,
, , through the entire ie.: 1, 1 ^1 "f ^''•^'"■^-7-*^ -ere to ,...,.ss
•""^tlM.f the MediternuH.au pJ Z^J^T"^' ^^"■^':'^'' <'"' -ntire
<l.e Atlantie-a voyage of .seUra ^t V v''"' T^V" ''"" ^^'''^^' '>f
•"to a very hIonv, stay-at-hon,e n,:un e ^f i|f^^' "Z'^""'" ''" "^^^'^l <lowu
exemplary people, and n>a,n no , . f' \^; '"'T' '"'t'"^ ''' '- 'I'uet,
"'^'•t^ at least, than from st,-,, T . twenty or thirty .Imvs \,
V"'''''''*^""^'i^^^'i"<l'satislie,i nmv .1 ^ ^ "wd.-d a ion-- n.st
';ook (that sure index, to ..0 f Tl '. •" "f"^'^'^' ""''•'"^ '" '"V m-t,..
tlun. a note-book ^ets'to i'l^l'.^T^ '!'-') I---. U'hat a^tnpid
..., . . . ' ' ""•^- I '^'^'^^ observe the stvln :
"!■ bud ouglit to 1,0 shinH,. In .,■"''■ ^'' ' '-''"If puivlms...! .t \ ." •
■5Ji-;E-;;-;:ir£':,~
"•H cs nv,M. in Uu. world. "^""- ' '■ ''"'"""'• '^ --M P.-lui,ly .s^i.^tiln; , , V
J itrsdai/ — Soiiic'whi'li' in i • 11
stoptl.ere. Choi... W.a4.i;.:^Sw"°i."'; ^''" '^'-"l "'' ^^^''t.,. < ■•-. not
n (v/„.,,/,,,/_.\v,,uh,., .till v.r/s V ," ■ s. ^ l''"*^""^'iTs .s,.asi, k an,l i,n i! V
laiiiW»j,u l,,liJ,i,| it. suu ],,i',i'' ",'■;■ . ""'"liriil lit'.-, I,,aiitiliil ..,, i ,i
.:,,. r"&-„;|;;s;r -. ™. ,,, , J
If
( !'
I (i
n
•"'''■'■"■'"•''^!""'^'-^''^l totl„,;..ut,ull"a,k.
38S
A IIOV H DIAliY.
<'JA..„An/-M.. riling, .loiniudcu. Alii',iinn,i, ,luiMino,.s. KviiiiiK, i n.iiu'iiii'liii;<
tlic.l.vks. ' Alt.Twui-.i, .■ImrMdcHi.ii.l alert iiiv li I>r. l'. Di.nimor-i.
A'- </'-^--\iirliov...l <iir till- i.irtiiivs.iu.. rity .r i',.;,'lmn, ^Ml•.ll.l:.. ^ 'li'l tm
i,iia.iit;lit. but not iH.n:iitt,.,l tu h\u\ hy tlnsr iufiruniH fmvi.ijn.'i'M. J U<y .smell iiuhIoi-
OUilv theVtlo mil \VI%ll tlley il:ire lldt lisi< elinlrni. . „. , .
"'77,, />•«//' " Aliel ..le,l (.ir till! heiiutir.ll < itV of M:ih<-.\, ><\Mn.--\\ i'U\ iishoie 111
tl..- e;M.t;>il,'H lK.,,t I,ot ..sl.o.e, eith,,, !„, tiny WouM Hot let Us ImU.1. (}mVWUm'.
Shipi.',! inv new-l.,).,.' e„nesl.on.lel,.e, whi-l, tlieV took with tonics, ^lll-pe,! it in sea
,vat!..', .linpeaill;,.; nf lioles. nn,l tliei. f„n,i;.-nt,..l it with vi la,no„s vayors 1 It
Hinelt like .1 Sp.ni ,1.1. lMM>iin,l alMMit ehanees to lUll the Moeka.le an,l V'sit the
Alhauil.ni at (li.iir h. Too risky- th,y mi-lit han- a hody. N't «ail -ini.hlle ot
"'*'•' Au.Tso on, iMi.l so .m, and so Inrth, for :even.l .lays. Fin.aiy, anelioiTd off
(Jil.nift.ir, whieh '. mki r.uniliai- aiel ho;iie-like.
It 1,'u.iiuls in<- of Iho jounml I (.i.mcd Avitli tlu' ih'W your, oiiw, when
I was a 1)ov and a .•-mfidin- a.ii.l a >Nilliu- ]>ivy to ihos;- mii.ossil)l.«
Kdicnu'.s of'iviyiiu Nvliidi wcll-iu. aiuii.u' cl'l maidH and ornudinotlicrs set
for tlio IVot of unv.-r.rv youtlis at thiit scas.ai uf the ycar-sctlni.y over-
sized tasks f..r tliein.Vliieli, nceissarily failin;.', as in1allil)ly veakeu the
Iiov'h streno-tli of \\ ill. .liininisii Lin eonlidenee in iiim.si'U and injtire liw
cliiincon of '^sncce.ss in life. Please aceei't of an extract :
" .1/(/,/''",i/— (oit \\\\ washe.l, uciit to be 1.
" 7'/(r',s7/(^?/— (lot lip, wa-siuMl, went to he'l.
" ir,il,i>''.i</'i>J—(-'<'>t n\K washed, went to beil.
': Thi'isdiiii'-VtiA \\\\ washeil, '.vent to heil.
" /•'ritlini-i int up, washeil, went to lieil,
",V/',-'/ .'<'/"■'/('(.)/ — (!ot Ul', washed, went to hi'd.
" Fviihvj forini:t!(f—^'«>t u\\ washed, went to hed.
" Fiiniii'-iiii/ uiotith—Vnit U|>, Wiisiiecl, went to Led.
I stoi)i)ed then, di.scoi:ra-(,'d. StivitUii- events a])])eared to h.' too
rar", in my career, to rendcn' ii diary necessary. I still reflect vath pride,
however, that evtn at that early a, ^o I washed when I got nj). 'J'hat
ioiirnal iinished me. I never have had the nerve to kee]> one since. Aly
'loss of eonlidenee in myself in that line was i»ernianent.
Th(* shii> hivd to stay it week or moro at Gibraltar to take ni coal for
the home vova,L,'e. . ,, ,,
It wonld 1)0 verv tiresome stuviay here, and ;;o fo>ir ol kh ran tlie
quarantines blockade and spent seven delightful days in Seville, Cordova,
Cadiz, and wanderino; through t'ne pleasant rural scenery of Andalt;sm,
the garden of Old Hpain. Tue experiences of that cheery weolc were
too varied and numerous for a short chapler and I hav(> not roam ter a
lam' one. Therefore I shall leave them all out.
I'dliicliii'lili;;
St.iM till
lucU iiiiMluf-
It lishnli' ill
(pillar iiitiiii'.
pCll it ill MlM
,ii]Miis till it
iiul vi-iit till'
— iiiiclilli' <il'
llirliolT,! dli'
MK'c, wlicn
itiHH>SKi))h'
iollicrs set
tliii,!,' over-
,c;ikfu the
iiijuiv liiis
to 1).' too
vitli jiridi',
u\). '.rh:\t
slu'.-(\ jMv
111 CO:U
f.n-
i;:-i r.iii tlie
le, C'ori'.ova,
An(l;ili;siii,
w(;c!c were
room fm- a
CHArTEK LX.
L 11.,;' .11 ( .i.liz. 'llu.y tol.l m the, «].!,, ha,l h,,n Ivi.i- at ai.r'.„r .
1..' I.ari.0,- tvvo ,u- tlin-o l.onrs. J, was /i,u« tbr „. t L . ^ -s L
li..' slM,. ,.oul. wa.L only a littl,, mIuI. W.-au.so of th. .luar '.t • \V '.
jr. suou o.i ,oa.l au.l uitl.in tho l.o.n- the wl.it.. city I tt .[.-asmt
Hhx.iv.oi Spa.n sank down Ik.1h,„1 til. M.tv.s a.,1 J.a^ M out 1 ^^h
\\ H ha-l Hecn no lan.l lad.. IVom vi.w so iv^Trttullv. "
I l.:„l on- a-o Wn .Imded at a noisy pul.lio' nan.tin- in ^I,.. n.in
n 1 M- f.. ; -'^''ytimy l.y nu.s.aectin.^, in t!.;. ^uud old
s a uty oi uapknis. I aiaromindwl, now, of ouo of tin.,. coa.„iaints
•If • <--"^"l'^;-"i'.'a m a ],i..h-]auulod way to" ('apt. Dnnc-an He
i r:;';;; ".r^"^" •'■'■'■ ^^" ^^'taiu;,i.ow.i'i.i.. rtsienc!^
men atNvlatJie denouno.,! as tlie jiartialitv sliown tli;^ cantiins t d.l,
over th. o, u.r tables of tko ship, k tlo.tLuxl Lack n. Sis ! u "
and set jt down trn\nipl,antly, and said : ' ^ '
'•Just try tiiat mixture onW, Captain Duncan "
He smelt it--.tastod it-sn.iicd benignantly-tlu.u said :
It ,, m enor-for coi/ee-^mi it is pretty fair (,„."
Ho had r, ""*"'"'''■'''''' i*; *"''^"^ it, and returned to liis ....t.
Ho had m,;de an egreg.ous ass of hi.iisolf before the whole shi,,. He Al
'n. " n% ^'''}^t ^\« t«°f^ things as they cante. That is me
-The oU.ft,sluoned ship-liie had returned, :L vhat we were t . ona-r
Z^t^^P't - ''"■ ^'^^^" ''i '^'^y^ i* ^-^*-"-l .i-fc the same, otte chi;
300
OUR FIRST ACCIDENT
The nioimtaiiis looked sur])ashiugly lovely, dud as tliey wove in liviny
green ; ribbed -with lava ridges ; flecked -with white cottages ; riven by
doe]> chasms purple Mith shade ; the great slopes dashed •with sunshine
an<l mottled >vith shado.vs flung from the drifting squudrons of the sky,
and the sup.ei'b picture fitly crowned by toweling peaks whose fronts
wore swept by the trailing fringes of the clouds.
But we could not land. We stayed all day and looked, we abused
the man who invented cpiarantine, wo held half a dozen mass-meetings
and ciannned them full of interrupted speeches, motions that fell still-
nought and
I'esolutions that died from
the house.
At night we set
})orn, amendments that came to
slieer exhai'.stion in trvini; to get before
saij.
Wo a\craged fou" mass-meetings a week for the voyage — we seemed
always in labor in this Avay, and y(>t so often fallaciously that whenever
at long intervals we wei-e safely delivered of a resolution, it was cause
for public rejoicing, and we hoisted the flag and fired a salute.
Days passed — and nights ; .'uid then the beautiful Bermudas rose out
of the sea, we ent(n'ed the tortuous channel, steamed hither and thither
among the bright sunnner islands, and rested at last under the flag of
England and were welcome. We were not a nightmare here, wdiere
wei'e civilization and intelligence in place of Spanish and Italian supersti-
tion, dirt and dread of cholera. A few days among the breezy groves,
the flower gardens, the coral caves, and the lovely vistas of blue water
that went curving hi and out, flisappsaring and anon again appearing
tlirough jungle walls of brilliant foliage, restored the energies dulled by
long drowsing on the ocean, and fitted us for our fin«l cruise — our little
run of a thousand miles to New York — America — home.
We bade good-bye to "our friends the Bermudians," us our pro-
gramme hath it^tlte majority of those we were most intimate with were
negroes — and courted the great deep again. I said the majority. We
knew more negroes than white people, because we had a deal of washing
to l)e done, but we made some most excellent friends among the whites,
■whom it Avill be a pleasant duty to hold long in grateful remembrance.
We sailed, and from that hour all idling ceased. Such another system
of OAerhauling, general littering of cabins and packing of trunks we had
not seen since we let go the anchor in the harbor of Beiront. Every
body was busy. Lists of all i)urchases had to be nlade out, and values
attached, to facilitate matters at the custom-house. Purchases bought
by liiilk in partnership had to be equally divided, outstanding debts
cancelled, accounts compared, and trunks, boxes and packages labeled.
All day long the bustle and confusion continued.
And now came our first accident. A passenger was running through
a gangway, between decks, one stormy night, Avhen he caught his foot in
t!ie iron staple of a door that had been heedlessly left off a hatchway,
and the bones of his leg broke at the ancle. It was our first serious
misfortune. We iiad traveled much more than twenty thousand miles,
by land and sea, in many trying climates, without a single hurt, without
AT HOME.
391
«. M,»,,ecte<l that hil'^^t Z toT «c>T „,;u1 T" "° 'r'"' ,■"" "
jou,e.i i™„,„ „„„i„ .„„ „, ,„„;, Sg:'r,,':'t„t™.:''':i;ir'' """
CHAP T E R L X I .
IN tiiis place I Avill print an article which I wrote for the Xew York
Herald the niglit wo arrived. I do it i)artly because my contract
with my publishers makes it compulsory; partly bee;uise it i.^ a pro]>er,
tolerably accurate, and exhaustive summing u}) of the cruise of the ship
and the performance ■> of the pilgrims in foreign lands ; and pirtly
because some of the passengers have abused me for writing it, and I wisli
the ])ublic to see how tlraukless a task it is to put one's self to trouble
to glorify miapprcciative ])eo[)le. I was charged witli " vusliing into
print " with these coni])limeats. I did not rusi!. 1 had written news
letters to the Herald sometimes, bat yet when J visited tlie ollico that
day I did not say anything aboiit w/ting a valedictoiy. T did go to the
Trihv.ne oliice to see if such an article was Avanted, because I belonged
on tiie regular statf of that paper and it was sim[)ly a d\ity to do it.
The managing editor was absent, and so I thougiit no more about it.
At night Avhen the Herald'.-! request came for an article, I did not
"rush." In fact, I demurred for a while, because I did not feel like
writing coin[)linients then, and therefore was afraid to speak of the
oruiso lesc I might 1)3 betrayed into using other than complimentary
langiiage. However, I reileetod that it would be a just and righteous
thing to go down and write a i<ind word for tho Hadjis— Hadjis are
])eople wjio have made the pilgrimage — because parties not interested
could not do it so feelingly as I, a fcllow-Hadii, and so I p3nned the
valedictory. I have read it, and road it again; and if tliere is a sentence
in it tluit is not fulsomely complimentary to c.iptain, shi[) and passengers,
/ can not find it. If it is not a chapter that any company might be
prf 5.d to have a body write about them, m\' judgment is tit for nothing.
With these remarks I conlidently submit it to the uuprtjudiced judg-
ment of tho reader :
EETURN OF THE HOLY L VXD KXCUJtSlONJSTrf-
CUUISE.
To THE Editor of rar, Hkkalo ;
-TflH STOUY OF THE
The steamer Quaker City lias accomiilislioil at last her extraor.linii')' voyage
ami vcturnrd to lier olil pier at tlie loot aP W:ill stvi'et. The ovp';litia:i, w,\% a sae-
cess ill some resiieets, in some it was not. Oiigiually it was advertise 1 as a " [ileas-
uve eveui'sioii." AVell, pciliaj's, it was a pleasure oxoursion, but eert'ixlyit did
AX OBITUARY.
the
OF THE
393
a Av,..,l ,.o.„!n.t,.,l iun..ml is tluit tlmt'^.u:; ^| ''°^\f ';'"^ ^^^''^y hod/n notion of
inoniiKM'.s and nioiirnLT.s l,y conrt.sv n n o! , '"•"•■^'^ ••m,! ,i corps;., and diiof
u.,v 1... wcM.n forty and .seventy years of v^ ' T 'e , t "'•'"■'''• ^'''^ '^ l'"«-^'-'<l4s
It may be supposed tiiat th. otll-r f ..i -t'. u- . • , '^ I'"'"""' '^'"^^•'1 '''J'' Vwi •
was not. Itwaschieflyeornpoledo ,!;^y:^;r,S:"' ° ^'"'V'ff «''•'«• Ji'-^ It
F'Ct us average the a^Ces of the Oi,.,)-,. • rjf,^- '.yd .dors and a .didd oi' six vears
'ifty years. % ,n/m^ i^ s^u e i;., S/i ':''^'''''':/''''' «''^ ^''« "suro ,lown =^
«an^,_nude love, .hi^need. ha,,] d/ ^L ! d, "'Til f ''''' ^fr'V'^ "'' ''^''■■'^"''^''^
.'.Npfnenec t ,,.y sii.ne.l litth. in these nVersVoi ".^^"-"'"y l^'^-ity •' In niy
home the.t g.ese froHesome veterans hmhu, iJ '^ "'", l"''"^'""^''l Iic..re at
aUer day, and kept up a noisv ex 1 ; :: M^ '"'- '1''^ •;^^ "II dav, and day
;V" t].at they phA,,l'ld;nd.„^.n; ,,;"'" ■';'•,;'' "'", ^'''I' *^"l'^ <'tl"^^
.Kl.teve;:ingsonthe,p,arterde.dc m t it oVr^"''' '" ' ^^'"'^^■^^ "^' "'^'«"-
t H.y .loted a h..oni.= item or tvvo i,,' , ^ ,n; L rh J''"'"'"'i' "' ""'^'^'^"l''>^'l tia,e
l-.un when thev left lio;„e ,ud the , . n,:.? r . '^ "'"''"'' "'' •'^'"••■' "u <da!).nute
nn
fault
ti^^ eabin la.ups. If these thii..
ihe v<.nernhle exeursionists we're
-.t ^rand'ivS-^'''"^"'-'^'^'';'' --'*
r
; aas inost of them were even writinji;,'? ' .V ' , ""^ "'^ "^ ';?■' J^^'"-»al,
I'lithttle, they never samr, .save in the iii.-hH,'. ,„. '^ !. '"•":"'l. f'"'y taked
u;as a synagogue, and th,.'^;ieasm- t ip m"^ ' ■ ' ' i^"'^"'"*"!- ''l'"' I'l-'sure ship
U'ne'.e ,s nothing e.-Juhua in.' almnt f, , ..,i ,.; ' • ''.v'ursioa without a ,-orpsi
V'arty laugh was a sound that wa , t " i i ^ r^;" ^^'''''""f '^ '"'V^^'-) A f've.
tl..«. decks or i,i those eai.ins and w he w, ^'i'"' "'"•'' i» -^'veii d,,ys about
sympathy. The excursionist ch ce n U, e "''l "^ "''^ '^■'^'' l"'^^'^"^ li"l«
itseemsnnage,),,uadril!(.sof sh 1 ""/''"'' ^^'arate evening.s, long, Ion- a-o
men , the latt?r\. ill, hlu ilk 111 .:;^'S :;;;,i '"l^ "1- "' ^"-"^ l-!i- and^kve gl. d^:
tuned their leet to the ^^olenn/X.. ": f a ^lY"" .'? ^'-"'^> Y'' '"^'^ ^^"''^
Ke.., n^o;'a:^;i;!;:-:;— ^^^^^^ - I^"^i"^on•s Holy L:.na
>'J"! sinless agauR. as any in the world i ', i . ! ' J' ''7"""'^«,i^ about as mihl
■•^il'i.l diversion they .■aUc'rouuet wh Lh T- .' i',, "i ''^'''-' "^V''^->? *'"' '"""al'lv in-
a.:d don't cn-om on any thing ,f n^ eo,H . ,'':"" i-H T *^""^ V"'^'-' '^"^ '""^
3'as to pay, and there are no^vfr.Iu.-ln: '*;,;"'''' V"-"' >''""' ^"•^' ■'"•"'' >'"l''^^ly
anysatistUction whatever about t- lev nl vd 1 : '• ""''' Iv;''^ d^'i-tly, there iJt
<non they blackguarded each otliei- p vilfe 1 r v ""^' "" ' c^ '''''' ''•^^f^''. '""I
.seas.ek they Mvre un.on.n.only l.ron v|;,,f ,,'''''' •^'''''^■- ^^ '"''^ they were not
<""■ 'l^iiiy li.'e .m iM.e.rd the shin <,,>,; i '^'"»e'-.^'"".^' .'bounded. Sueh was
Claude. It was nor li^el - 1 H b a i^?etrT'' '''!"';••>;'"'»'""-' -'-'"ti-?
oorjseit would have niade a i,nblef,,,r,^ I'.tasaie tup ; bat ,| w.. h;.d oulv had a
I look back, the idea, of thc^ "ve!e e ^^ti^Hj::;- ,„ f ':,^'' "'■'"■ "'^^ = '-* -'-"
seems e.vouisitely refreshing. The .adn-rHs .1 ',■; ''!" I" /'" t'' "" a .s;x months' picnic.
Holy Land Pleasure Kxenr^ion-i.^ , ^^J '" ? S':/"'"' '1^^^ ^''- ('''ana
P.'oeess.on" would have been better -much '/...ItcT ""' ^^"'^' ''^"'*^ ^•"""^■•'■'■'l
1 -^'^ypf<^''^Tl'r!^J^^^ madeasensdion. and I suppose
from 1h.. interior ; travel was a wild' nove t ■ to 'k "V''"'' ^'t'' ' ''' "" l""!"!
«<-cordanee with the natural instinets 1 1, ^l,' i"?,,'' "'/r' ''^^"^ "^^'t-l ourselves in
no ceremonies, ,io conventionalities. We al • v n ^'T''''^"} ^^'^'^^^'^ ^vitli
394
AN OBITUAUV.
wc jiitied the ignorance of tlio Old "World, but almted no jot of our import aucc.
Miiiiy and many a siniiilc community in tlie Eastern liemispiierc will remember for
years the ineursio!i of tlie strange lioide in the year of our Lord 1867, that called
the'nselves Amerieaus, and seemed to imagine in some unaceouutable way that they
had a right to be proud of it. "We generally created a famine, partly 'because tln^
coffee on the (Quaker City was uuenduralile, and sometimes the more substantial fare
was not strictly iirst class ; and partly because one naturally tires of sitting long at
the same board and eating from the same dishes.
The ])eople of tliose foreign countries are very, very ignorant. They looked
curiously at the costumes we had brought from the wilds of America. They obscr.-cd
that we talked loudly at table sometimes. They noticed that we looked out for
expenses, and got what we conveniently could out of a franc, and wondered where
in the mischief we came from. I;i Paris they just simply opened their eyes and
stared when we spoke to them in French ! We never did succeed in making thobv
idiots understand their own language. One of our passengers said to a sliopkoejier,
in reference to a proposed return to buy a pair of gloves, "A//on'/ rcstarj trankrd—
man ^c ^'C eooiii Mooiuhuj ;" and wnuld you believe it, that shopkeeper, a born
Frencliman, had to ask what it was that liad been said. Sometimes it seems to nie,
somehow, that there must be a difference between Parisian French and (,)uaker City
French.
The people stared at us everywhere, and we stared at tliem. "We generally made
them feel rather small, too, before we got done with them, because we bore down on
them with America's greatness until we crushed them. And yet we took kindly to
the manners and customs, and especially to the fashions of the various people we
visited. \Vhen we left the Azores, we wore awful capotes and used line tooth cooml)s
■ — successfully. When we came back from Tangier, in Africa, we were topped with
fezzes ot the bloodiest hue, hung with tassels like an Indian's scalp-lock. In France
and Spair. avc attracted some attention in these costumes. In Italy they naturally
took us for distempered Garibaldians, and set a gunboat to look for any thing signi-
ficant in our elianges of uniform. "We made Eome howl. "We could have made any
place liowl wlien we had all our clothes on. "We got no fresli raiment in Orceee— they
had but little there of any kind. But at Constantinople, how we turned out!
Turbans, seimetars, fezzes, horse-pistols, tunics, sashes, baggy trow.sers, yellow slip-
pers—Oh, we were gorgeous ! The illustrious dogs of Constantinople barked their
under jaws off, and even then failed to do us justice. They are all dead by this time.
They could not go tiirough sneh a run of business as we gave them and survive.
And their we went to see the Emperor of Kussia. "We just called on him as com-
fortably as if we had known him a century or so, and when we had finished our visit
we variegated ourselves with selections from llussian ''ostumes and sailed away again
more picturesque tlian ever. In Smyrna we picked up camel's hair shawls aiid other
dres.sy things from Persia ; but in Palestine— ah, in Palestine— our splendid career
ended. They didn't wear any clothes tliere to speak of. "We were satisfieil, and
stopped. "We made no experiments. We did not try their costume. But we
astonished the natives of that country. AVe astonished them with such eccentricities
of dress as we could muster. We luowlcd through the Holy Land from Oesarea
Philippi to Jerusalem and the Dea<l Sea, a weird procession of pilgrims, gotten up
regardless of expense, solemn, gorgeous, green-s]iectacled, diowsing under blue um-
brellas, and astride of a sorrier lot of horses, camels and asses than tliose that came
out of Noah's ark, after eleven months of seasickness and short rations. If ever
those children of Israel in Palestine forget when Gideon's Band went through there
from America, they ought to be cursed once more and finished. It was the rarest
spectacle that ever astounded mortal eyes, perhajis.
Well, we were at home in Palestine. It was easy to see that that was tlie grand
feature of the expedition. We had cared nothing much about Europe. We gal-
loped through the Louvre, the Pitti, the Ufizzi, the Vatican— all the galleries — and
through the pictured and frescoed churches of Venice, Naples, and the cathedrals
of Spain ; some of us said IhuL (;ertain of the great works of tlie old nuuiters W(!re
glorious creations of genius, (we found out in the guide book, though we got hold
AN OBITl'ARY.
395
o( the wiTiiig picture .soiiictinie.s,) iiii.l tlic otli'Ts siii.l tliov ww,- (lis!;niivrul oKl
(liuilis. We cx.iniincHl iiiodcrn and iiiicii-iit sti'tiiiiry witli a nitu-A ovc iii rimviicf,
Koini', or iiiiy wlicir we I'ouijii it, luid ]>iiiisi'd it if \vc saw lit, iind if' ■we didn't wc'
said \v(! iin'rciTcd tlio wooden Indiiins in I'lont of the ci.uar stoics of Aniciira. ISnt
tlie Holy I-iuul broiiglit out idi our rntlnisiasm. We full into nii>tui('.s liy \hv liam ii
shoi-f's of (iiiiili'e; wc londcK.l at Tiibor luid at Xazaiclli; we cxiilodcd into poetiv
over the ' McstioDalde loveliness of K.sdiv.elon; we meditated at .lezreei and Samaria
over tlie ndssionaiy zeal of .lelm; we rioted— faiilv rioted ainoiijr the holy iilaees of
Jciiisnleni; we bathed in Jordan and the Dead Sea. reckless whether our ae.ident-
insuranee jwliries were extra-liaznrdous or not, and l)rouf,dit nway so many jm,'s of
]ireeious water from both ],laees tliat all the country from .leridiot'o the mountains of
Jloab will suller from drouth this yiar, I think. Yet. tlie iiil;,'rimai,'e ];nrt of tlu-
excursion was its pet featuK — there is no iiuestion about that. .AfteiMlismal, smile-
Je.ss Palestine, bcaritilul Kf;ypit liad few charms fur us. We merely glanced at it and
were ready for home.
^ They wouldn't let us land at Malta— (luarantino; Ihev would not let us laud in
Sardinia; nor at Alfjiers, Afiica; nor at Malaj,ra, Spain, nor Cadi/, nor at the Jladciia
Islands. So we got oilcndt d at all fo)ei<;neis and turned our backs ujioii tlieiii and
cauio home. I sup].ose we only stoiped at the Bermudas because they were in the
lirogramme. AVe did not care anything about any place at all. We wanted to go
liome. IJomesiekness Mas abroad in the ship— it was e]iidemic. If tbe authorities
ot New York had known how badly we had it, they would have (luarautiiieil us here.
The grand iiilgriinage is over, (iood-liye to it, and a iileasant luemory to ir, 1 am
able to say in all kindness. J bear no malice, no ill-will toward any imiividual tliat
was connected wiih it, either passenger or ollicer. Things I did not 'like at all yester-
day I like very well to-day, now that I am at liome, and ahvavs lieveafti r 1 sl'iall be
able to poke luu at the whole gang if the sjiirit so moves m'e to do, without ever
saying a malicious word. The expedition accomplished all that its lirogramme iiro-
luised that it should accom]ili.sh, and we ought all to be satisfied with die niaiia"c-
meiit of the matter, certainly. ]Jye-bye!
JIauk Twain.
I call tliat conipliinentaiy. It in coinplimentary ; iuul yet I have
never received a word of thanks for it from the Hadjis ; on tlie contrarv,
I speak nothing but the seriov..s truth wlien I say that ninny of theni
even took exception to the article. In endeavoring to j)lca.se them I
slaved over that sketch for two hours, and had my labor for my pains.
I never will do a generous deed again.
CONCLUSION.
'EAPvIiY on?! yciir has llowii siiico this notahlo pllgriimi^'a was
oiuletl ; and us I sit hero at lionie in San Francisco tliinking, I am
moved to confess that day by day tlie mass of my memories of tlie excur-
sion Ii;\ve grown more and more pleasant as tlie disa'^ree;iblo incidents of
travel which cneuuiborod theiu liitted one by one out of my mind — and
now, if the Qtmher CU>j wei'e weighing her anchor to s:ul away on the
very r? ime ornise again, notliiiig could gratify mo more than to b3 a pa-j-
senger. "With the same captain .and even the .same pilgrims, the svme
sinners. I was on excellent terms with eight or nine of the excursionists
(they are my staunch friends yet), and vras even on speaking terms with
the rest of the sixty-tive. I have been at sea qnite enough to know that
that ^\^^s a very good average. Because \\, long sea-voyage not only
brings out all the mean tiuits one has, and exaggerates them, but raises
np others which Jio never suspectcl he possessed, 'and even ci-eates new
ones. A twelve months' voyage at sea woidd make of an ordinary man
a veiy miracle of meanness. Ou the other hand, if a man has good
(pialiti(^s, the spirit seldom moves him to exhibit thein on shipboard, at
least with any sort of em[>hasis. Now I am satistied that our pilgrims
are pleasant old people ou shore ; I am also satisfied that at sax on a
second voyage they would be [)lea!!anter, somewhat, than they were on
our graufl excursion, and so I say without hesitation that I would l>o
glad enough to sail with them again. I could at least enjoy life with
my handful of old friends. They could enjoy life with thp,\\r cliques as
well — passengers invariably divide np into cliques on all shii)s.
And 1 will say, here, that I worJd rather travel with an excursion
party of ^lethnselahs than have to be changing ships and comrades con-
stantly, as people do who travel in the ordinary way. Those latter arc
always grieving over some oihc.v .ship they liave known and lost, and over
other conn-ades whom diverging I'outes Jiave separated from them. Tliey
learn to lo^■e a shipjust in time to change it for another, and they be-
come attached to a pleasant travelling companion only to lose him. They
have that most dismal experience of being in a strange vessel, among
strange people who care nothing about them, and of nndergoing the
customary bullying by strange otiicers and the insolence of strange ser-
vants, repeated over and over again within the compass of every month.
They have also that other mi.sery of packing and nnpacking trunks— of
]
f'OXCLUSIOJT.
397
lUiigo was
king, I am
tli3 exciir-
ucMeiits of
luiiul — and
i'ay on tlie
) b3 a pa-J-
, tlio s:nne
Lcursionists
tei'ius with
know tiiat
5 not only
but raises
reates now
Unary man
L lias good
[»boai<l, at
\v pilgrims
i swi on a
'.y were on
would ba
!■ life with
cliipie.j as
H.
I excursion
urades con-
1 latter aro
st, and over
lem. They
L(l they be-
hlm. They
isel, among
3rgoin'^- the
itniugu ser-
^ery montli.
trunks — of
safety. I lia.l ritli.M. «..,•! x..-fi '■-■-''of I'yi" point to point on ]an( in
'Si;;;; J -;:r r :;^ whenove;::;::\:^,;;;'i;;!.:;-:^-
tinngM-e^houldriri ,rcHl it" . " ^'""f '"'^^ ^^■^'"* ""'"""* of
-lise^r two accord Wy' an left'X t.' ''f ''""f '"\"'^'*'^>'' ''-''^'^^l
!• comrades fron. an^;; la tn ^ 'i^^'^ "\ '"'■'"''•, ^^^^' ^'^'^^^
th no ft.iends to exchang'p:- f ^^^ 1 ^^^f Sltl^' "w;' ^'""""^
I'o comui" back frnin ., ],,/i ■ i".i.-M.u., -witii. \\ iienever M-e
apeak we felt a T vo? , "'"''' '^ '■'•'"'" "^ ''ii^^'""- ^^•it]l the
itate-rooni to "o to and fnoU^f. i ''^^'^^^'^ ""^* ^^'« «anie iaimliar
rLave .,0 f«,uAVS,:!'t{h '„",,;;.' ]rZM or"'"""'''" "■""'"•
i.ris.,1 ,„o, for .-™t rtX J.its ; n •' '■""■"-''' "'"-•■' "'"'■" ^>iA-l'
. ..ot 1.0 acquired I ;V"l«r;;:"riM """ "*■ ".""'i "'"' "''"5--
«'s lifotinie i„ot.uiiig m „„c liltlc comer of the o,iHl, ail
3as,mtiy i,. c 1™,, sfo' ,';;f .:':-e:;";"^''" '■'"'"■;t »"' '"■»"•
: id impressions of I it ^ i^V^f^ ''f ^'"J'" ^'V'^*^*^'^ *^ ^■'- '■^'t'^i'^
.ht Irl ..t been in ."i;^!^; Z^orT^^S^n .]' t ""'''' ^'"'^^
.Jns, certani of its best pri«>d incturcs 1 ft tb. V f^'-'f, '■'"'^"^^^-
.nue pe.<-ect to tint and outline piV? ^^'"'^•'<'IY«^ -'"1 ^v,il ,,tillcon-
iway. "*^""' '^^'" t^'^"' ■'"UToundmgs .hall havo faded
' W e shall rememlor sometliin" of nlr.o^..,,f ir,
/of Paris, though it Hashed m on us' ft ! !"'" ' ''''''^ ««">««>i»;^ also
■ again, we hardly knew how or ^^,e ' ll^'l i n ""'■^'"^;' ''"^ ^^"^^ ^-^"^
we saw n.ajesti<;^Gibnatar gbrMed JitiulL' S ^"T"'"' ^^l-'^^'^--
sunset and swinmiin- in a sea of rf 1 t l '''''''""« ^^ '^ '^l^^-'i^Ji
again, and her stately Ca h d ra S r'' W '"'^ ,"^ ^''"" ^^'^ ^^^^^'^
•-pircs. And PaduaivW? ( V>n ;"}'-"• '^'^'^'^^^^ of .graceful
I'enice, alioat on her st ^ Itf^o J ^i'l^'f "/^'^ "'^^r'"' ""'''' 1'^'*"--^
of her humbled state--wmm -.rht;:!^^^^^^ '^''''^'''?' ''^^-I'gl^ty-scornful
of battle and triumph, and'^^l ^e l^^L^^rSSAa: is^S
398
CONCLUSION.
We cannot forget Florence— Naples — nor the foretaste of li
is in the delicions atinospliere of Greece — and surely not Athe
broken temples of the Acropolis. Surely not venerable R_oni
green plain that compasses her round about, contrasting its^
■with her gray decay — nor the ruined arches that stand niiart i
and clothe their looped and windowed raggedncss with vines,
remember St. Peter's : not as one sees it when he walks the
Rome and fancies all her domes arc just alike, but as he set^
jiway, when every meaner ediline lias faded out of sight anu
dome looms superbly up in the flush of sunset, full of dignity i
strongly outlined as a mountain. ,
We shall remember Constantinople and the Bosporus — th' '
magnificence of Baalbec— the Pyramids of Egypt— the prodig;
the benigui'ut countenance of the Sphynx— Oriental Smyrr
Jerusalem— Damascus, the " Pearl of the East," the pride of N ■
fabled Garden of Eden, the home of princes and genii of the
Nights, the oldest metropolis on earth, the one city in all the W(
Imkept its name and held its place u:\d looked serenely on \
Kingdoms and Empires of four thousand years have risen to life,
their little seiuson of pride and pomp, and then vanished a^
forgotten I ',
Vl
L \