IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^BS U£ ^ tt Si 122 ■ 22 I.I Sf B£& 12.0 u Wmu 1^ Uj^ Hiotogrsphic .Sdaices CarpoFation •'^ s> 23 VnST IMAM STMiT WnSTM,N.Y. 14SM (71«)t7a-4503 ^^^^V^ «\<^ v\ :4^ o^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CiHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canbdian Inttituta for Historical MIcroraproductlona / Inatltut Canadian da micr&raproductlons historlqvM Tachnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notas tachniquaa a^ bibiiographiquaa T tc Tlia inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha boat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may aigniflcantiy changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chacitad l>alow. D D D D D D D D Coiourad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur Covara damagad/ Couvartura andommagte Covara rastorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raataurte at/ou pailiculte Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da couvartura manqua Coiourad mapa/ Cartaa gtegraphiquaa an coulaur Coiourad ink (i.a. othar than blua or black)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua biaua ou noira) Coiourad plataa and/or illuatrationa/ Planchaa at/ou illuatrationa an coulaur Bound with othar matarial/ RailA avac d'autraa documanta Tight binding may cauaa ahadowa or diatortion along interior margin/ La n liura sarrAa paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga intMaura Blank iaavaa addad during raatoratlon may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainaa pagaa bianchaa ajouttea lora d'una raatauration apparaiaaant dana la taxta, n:aia, ioraqua eala ttait lioaaibia, caa pagaa n'ont paa AtA fiimtea. Additional commanta:/ Commantairaa aupplAmantairaa: L'Inatitut a microfilm* la maillaur axamplaira qu'll lul a it* poaaibia da aa procurar. Laa ditaila da cat axamplaira qui aont pf ut-Atra uniquaa du point da vua bibiiographiqua, qui pauvant modlfiar una imaga raproduita, ou qui pauvant axigar una modification dana la mithoda normala da filmaga aont indiquto ci-daaaoua. D D g n n n Coloured pagaa/ ^ Pagaa da coulaur Pagaa damagad/ Pagaa andommagAaa Pagaa raatorad and/or laminatad/ Pagaa raatauriaa at/ou pailiculiaa Pagaa diacoiourad, atainad or foxad/ Pagaa dicolor^eAA^ {jtyUL CUt/h^ Lh.tzi^f JOURNAL. I ..§*'*f-*. H. :.I S. ■■ Aria^lno," nnrl.--i' 'lovihlri reefed l^.p ails, SHlutin)^ H.I*' H th» PvinoP ■^f Wnlra -n hir, hirt.hda.v : ■ Oth No-. 181^0 — T.lirt. Ailanti.'. V5 4:. ..„. ai" JOURNAL OF THE PROGRESS OF H. R H. THE PRINCE OF WALES THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA AND HIS VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES, 10th JULY TO loTii NOVEMBER, I860. BY M GARDXKR 1). KNOLKHKAlir, I'll IV A 1 1; sKi.'nKi nKiARV Ml I'm-. 1)1 Ki. or Ni-.wf\sii.r. J'rli'dlelif prlnfi'd. I'lri'jL LIS 1' mK 1I,].,IIS11;A'I'I''>n;s. " Ariiidnu " (Fr .uLiuiii.jCt;). C'l-^-l'^'7 St. Johu'y, Kowf'ouiuUan.; .CK)0» St. Pierre . C.lDOli^^ , , Il6 Columl.ior . ClpO (.""Vi WiAwam .,f MicmucH (1100|t|2. Point Pleasant — Haliliix iiaH- iir Capo Split . (..\0p]^0 Boar's Head, Ken.jlx kaci-; Kivfj- SI. John River (CI0.Ol??8 . Rnak..! Dance of Uoliceto Indian? . . , Falls, St. .fohii River (inwards) C\C'9^'^.' , Falla, St. John River (outward.s' C^O.O^!^". ■■ Good-bye," Carleton . CU-V^V™) . Micmac "Women . Q-)y^ .'^ . , t|6 .1 '^.^ . ' " " Oharlotlo Town Perno Rock . G-asji,' Bay . Cape Chatte ?iO Ste. Mar4uerite Quebec . Cape Diamond , Montreal Ijachino Rapid Ridoau Falls Capes Trinity and Ft,, rniiy C K?^ '. 8, c .\ op \ ^ 6 . uiMrb . . cir.o. nK . Canoes up the Ocia-wa . C.\ '-^ .^ \^\ ••Thousand Islands' . C| OO.) <10 . Kini^ston . . .CipO.n!! Fort Eric . . .O *•'. ' ii.3 KiaAara Falls . C K . f I. ' I Brock's l.Tonumeui, QiiOLUstown Height,-' - ].0 (J Chart of V'-ynftos . ut and li'in-^. 1.W I'.!:: P ..■I 14 It; 17 in 20 21 ■l>> & 24 20 "7 28 29 Mil ■■tl :V .■)4 aa 40 4.T 47 61 .'i3 ."'4 63 ().'> ti? • 1 '11 "^ t- /_4.^,f ■!• i r I t^. ■^ ' Jotui Arrvw,*milh . Map of the Route of H.R.H.THE PRINCE OF WALES through BRITISH NORTH AMERICA and the UNITED STATES. 18«0. ^ y t oy wy '"f'^T -4- 3li# Bouitf u eolcurtJi - \ 8lO r~'T"T Jolax AnvwimtMJl "*% EXTRACTS FliUM THE LOG OF THE HERO ON HEU VOYAGE OUT. [Cak'ulationa are made from noon to noon.] Date. July 10 Course. Dis- tance by DR. 30 Wind. Lut. ! Long. From St. John's l>yol)scr- vatiou8. Down Channel. S.E, W.X.W. 1 1906 11 S. 82 W. 161 N.W, W.S.W. 49.26 9.32 1715 12 N. 82 W. 164 S.W, West 49.50 13.43 1547 13 N. 71 W. 134 West 51.10 17.31 1388 14 N. 39 ^\. 94 W, N. 52.18 19.8 1320 15 S. 68 W. 95 X, X.W. 51.36 21.1 1247 16 N. 83 W. 139 West 51.21 24.5 1105 17 N. 84 W. 81 N.W, N. 51.20 27.21 1010 18 S. 73 W. 144 N.W. 50.38 31.1 865 19 S. 76 W. 127 W.N.W, N. 49.53 34.14 740 20 S. 85 W. 182 N.W. 49.42 39.23 540 21 S. 81 W. 152 W.S.W. 49.41 43.48 371 ' 22 ; S. 72 W. 185 S.W. 48.42 48.14 189 23 S. 63 ^\. 143 W.S.W. 47.52 51.56 33 Arrived at St. John's 6.30 P.M. 1831 26 11 A.M. 10 S.W. i 1 27 left St. 220 S.W. i 28 John's for 166 N.W. 29 30 Sytlncy anil Halifa.x. 137 104 N, S.W. S.W. 637 1 * The extracts from the Log out and homo were kindly commu- nicated to mo by Mr. Sulivan, the Master of the Hero. B KXTRACTS FROM TIIK Dkvonport, ]Oth Jultf. Royal Yacht, with the Prince Consort, sailed at 4 a.m. At 7 a. m. weighed under steam, with Ariadne in com- pany. Met Channel fleet off the Rame Head ; ships saluted, and escorted us till evening ; wea- ther thick. At 4 p. m. sent despatches by Grey- hou7id, when fleet again saluted and returned. 6 p.m. Hawke, 61, block ship, passed and sa- luted. 1 1 th. Passed two American ships steering to W. ; met a Frenchman. \2th. Made sail ; in afternoon steamed again. Gun- room steward jumped overboard in a fit of tem- porary insanity, and sunk when the boat was alongside him. ]3th. Breeze fast increasing to a gale ; made sail. \4t/i. Still strong W. breeze, in evening inclining to N. I5th. Strong N. breeze. At daylight sighted a large iron steamer steering to the W. 8 miles off; passed a barque at noon ; took to steam, furling square sails. I6th. Breeze good, but not so strong. Passed ship standing to W., and exchanged colours with English brig Dante of Greenock. Steamed through day, made sail in evening. 17///. Thick driving rain. Lost sight of consort for some hours. ISth. Wind still foul; fog. Eclipse of sun shortly LOG OF THE HERO. after 11a. m. At a little before noon seven- eighths eclipsed ; seen through fog with naked eye. Weather threatening. Idth, Weather moderating; wind foul; fog. In tow of the Ariadne. 20th. Cast off Ariadne after a run of 200 miles. Fog thick, and breeze freshening. 2 1 St. Breeze freshening ; fog very thick ; tempera- ture of water fell 58 deg. to 48 deg. On look- out for icebergs ; weather so thick could not see twice length of ship. 22nd. Fog very thick ; wind freshening to a gale from S. W. In afternoon the temperature of the water fell suddenly. At sunset fog cleared. 23rrf. Moderate breeze and fine. 10 a. m. in tow of the Ariadne ; at 1 1 a. m. made Newfound- land ; but breeze freshened from W.S.W. and did not get off St. John's till 5 p.m. 2Ath. The Prince landed, and remained at St. John's till the morning of the 26^/t, when he embarked. 2Qth. Weighed at 10 a.m. for Halifax. Weather fine, then foggy. At 7 p. m. rounded Cape Kace communicating with the telegraph boat. Lost Flying Fish in the fog. 27th. Foggy morning. Sighted St. Pierre at 9.30 A. M. passing round it to the East, and inside Colombier ; then between St. Pierre and Mi- quelon for Sydney, Cape Breton. S.W. breeze and fog ; in tow of the Ariadne for- five hours ; made sail, but wind heading, took to sailing at 10 P.M. EXTllACTS FROM THE LOG OF THE HERO. 28/A. W.N.W. breeze, weather fine. Arrived off coal mines in Spanish Bay at 11 a.m.; an- chored till 2 P.M. while H. R. H. visited mines and inspected Volunteers. At 2 p.m. left for Halifax, looking in at Louisburg. 29M, Sunday. Light N. breeze. At 8 p. m. being sixty miles off Halifax, proceeded easily under steam. 30^7/ . At daylight made entrance of Halifax har- bour, where Flying Fish was waiting. Arrived at Halifax at 9.30 p.m. H. R. H. landed at noon. d It JOURNAL OF THE PROGRESS OF H. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. SOON after dawn on the morning of the 10th of July a royal salute announced the departure of the Prince Consort. At 7 A.^r. the Hero and Ariadne were under weigh. The weather was calm, with no breeze to ripple the water, or clear the fog, which overhung sea and shore, dimming the beauties of the Sound, and disappointing the hopes of the Devonport folk, who could hardly catch a glimpse of the Royal squadron as it rounded the Breakwater, under the salutes of the flag-ship, the shore bat- teries, and the Cornwall Volunteer Artillery. At eight, the fleet was reached, drawn up in two lines in the following order : — t^^m Port. Starboard. ^B Edgar Royal Albert .^^^^^H' Trafalgar Hero Donegal ^B Algicrf Ariadne Aboukir Wm Mars Conqiicroi Diadem Mersey (Centurion II.M.S. Hero, Plymouth Sound, 10 July, 18(50. m 1 1 Each ship saluted and manned yards as the Hero, 6 PROGRESS OF H. R. II. TIIF. PRINCE OF WALES At Sea. closely followed by her consort, steamed through, until she headed, the fleet. In this order the squadron and fleet continued throughout the day, with no other variation than that of substitution of canvas for steam as the breeze freshened. At sundown the fleet again saluted, and left the squadron to pursue its voyage to the far West. The Hero, 91 guns, Commodore Seymour ; the Ariadne, 26 guns, Captain Vansittart; and the Flying Fish, 6, screw-steam-sloop, Commander Hope, were under the command of the Commodore. In the former there were, in attendance on the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Newcastle, the Earl of St. Germans, Major-Gen. the Hon. R. Bruce, Major Teesdale, Captain Grey, and Dr. Acland, and myself, as the Private Secretary of the Duke of Newcastle. The Flying Fish had been dispatched ton days before, to join the squadron in the North American waters. The officers of the Hero were : — Commander, F. H. Stirling. Captam Marines, D. Blytli. Lieutenant, J. II. Coxon. Lieutenant, Iloggc. „ R. M. Blomfield. „ Alston. „ .7. T. Swann. „ Johnston. Viscount Kilcoursie. Chaplain, The Rov. P. C. Pratt. „ C. E. Buckle. Surgeon, F, Harvey. Master, T. W. Sulivan. Assist. Surgeon, A. Stevenson. „ „ M. Coates. Pm'veyor Mr. Grant. Paymaster Mr. Millei-. Naval Instructor . . . Mr. Read. Mates Messi-s. Parsons, Broughton, A'Court, and Watts. THROUGH imiTISIl NORTH AMERICA. i f Among tlic "young nrontlcmoii " were (_'. A. Woodroffo, A. H. At Sen. I'cicy, K. Tliorold, ('. W. IJinnniont, A. H. Byng. A. II. Fioudi'. R. ('. Townshond, AV. T. Down, C. 11. Ta.ylor, T. li. (iongli. A. Gftin, and 1'. Ajdin. Man overboard ! The gun-room steward jumped i'-^ J"iy. out of one of the ports, in a fit of temporary insanity, and was drowned ! Every effort was made to rescue him, but he would not be saved. But few incidents illustrated the voyage. What there was of wind was persistently adverse, the weather uniformly cold, and from the 18th to the 22nd, for 1000 miles, foggy and uncomfortable. The Ariadne was our only prospect, and she was occasionally shrouded from our view at mid-day. The eclipse relieved the monotony of our voyage. is July. It was visible to the naked eye through the fog [Lat. 50.31, Long. 31.1], and lasted for nearly three hours, two-thirds of the sun being obscured at the maximum eclipse. The atmosphere assumed its usual inky hue, but the fog prevented any just ap- preciation of the effect of loss of sun-light. But few ships were spoken, but few living things seen ; a whale was reported ; some porpoises swim- ming to the south raised expectations of a favourable wind from that quarter, which, however, were not realized. We are in the " Icy Atlantic," but look out in '^^ J"!/- vain through the murky atmosphere for icebergs ; the ship's bows are sometimes hardly visible. Sunday, — the most disagreeable day we have yet 22 July. had. Heavy rain, dense fog, half a gale, and severe 8 IMUKJUKSS OF II. II. II. TIIK IMIINC'F, OF WALES At Self. cold made it difKcult to keep the dock ; some Motlicr Carey's chickens flew rojoicinji^ly about the ship when she was pitching her worst. At H v. m., however, the fog lifted as if by magic, and a clear night herahled a bright morning which gladdened all hearts. 21 .Till). Land was made at 10 a. m., and the Haro was soon afterwards taken in tow by her consort, until both ships were off St. John's at six o'clock, and their anchors were down at a few minutes after seven in the snug little harbour, where the Flifing Fish was lying, having preceded us by seven days. H. II. IT. dined and slept on board. Captains Vansittart and Hope and Mr. Ellis joined the dinner party. ^-4^t?-' • I St. Johns, Ne-wfoundland. Newfound- Although we had anticipated the time fixed for land, '111. .1 24 July. ""^' arrival by thirty-six hours, the preparations at TIIHOUOII HUrnSII N(»RTII \merica. 9 J^BT) St John's were complete. The; morning was wet, but the fog lifted and the sun shone out at a few minutes before noon, when H. 11. H. left the Hero in the barge, attended byhis suite, all in uniform. He was reccive with large, well-proportioned rooms. It accommodated the whole of the Prince's party. There H. R. H. received and replied to various addresses. The Executive and Legislative Councils, the Bishops and Clergy of the Churches of England and Rome, and other bodies, expressed in the warmest terms the feelings of their constitu- ents upon the auspicious arrival of the Son of their Queen. Indeed the unanimity, spontaneity, and earnestness of the people were so remarkable, that one was tempted to fancy such a state of things must be perennial, and that rancour and religious animosity and bitter party spirit could scarcely exist in this the oldest of Her Majesty's colonial possessions. A levee succeeded, at which 250 persons were presented ; amongst others. Captain Clouet, of the French navy, and the officers of his vessel, the Sesostris. Two hundred men of the Newfoundland Companies and the Volunteers were then inspected. After luncheon the Prince rode on horseback, returning through the principal streets, where he was enthusiastically received. NcirfonmU land. M il 10 PROGRESS OF II. R. II. THK PRINCE OF WALES Xfir/oiuiil- I mil I. '2.> Jul)-. Dinner at eight ; all except the officers being in phiin clutliei:^. After breakfast II. U. II. proceeded to visit the cathedrals. The Knglisli cathedral, an exceedingly pretty building, partly of native slate, partly of Galvvay stone, of the Early English style, but still incomplete. The Roman Catholic cathedral, very pretentious in its exterior, of Irish granite, and of Italian style, but within cold and bald, and resem- bling a large cruciform music-hall. On returning He proceeded to Quidi Vidi Lake to witness a regatta. The view towards the foot of the lake of the Sugar-loaf Hill, with a peep of the blue sea, is very pretty, and explains the name, supposed to be expressive of the surprise of the Portuguese in seeing so much of beauty in so sterile a spot. We drove afterwards to the cod-liver oil manufactory, at the foot of the lake, and walked under trellises covered with cod drying into " Baccalao," and tasted the oil. A fine dog was presented to the Prince on his return to Government House, and received the appropriate name of Cabot. A ride to the Signal Station and Queen's Battery followed ; then dinner in uniform, at which the magnates of the place were present. At 10.30 H. R. H. went to the ball held in the Colonial-buildings. This was an amusing affair, and went off upon the whole very well. On our way the horse resenting a squib thrown under his feet, threw me out of the carriage into the road. On the day before, in going to the levee, he had declined to take us up a steep pitch in the street. TIIIIOUOII DIUTISII NOIITII AMKIIICA. 11 until the Chiof Justice, the most encrget'j man in the island, in whose carriaj^^e we were riding, and whose wig we were nursing inside — its owner heing, fortunately for us, outside, — seized the reins, when the horse promptly oheyed his " mandamus/' At the ball we again found him Mastar S/<^.:> 22 PROdRESS OF II. R II. THE PRINCE OF WALES New Brum- according to tho state of the tide, is either oM^vards "'"*• or /wwards. At its full, and for twenty minutes, St. Jubii. ^^■^^^m^^^^p^cf!^i^j^' ^"««»#*-*^v|!^ FiiUa, tJt. .lobn Rivor (inwardu). vessels can pass the point. This phenomenon we witnessed ; for the tide had turned as we crossed the bridge and made a long detour, which brought us again to the river side. A drive of three miles from the landing-place brought us to Carleton (so called after General Carleton, afterwards Lord Dorchester). H. R. H.'s progress to the harbour was one continuous ovation. The Carleton people seemed much pleased at his going out of his way to see them, and have given him the heartiest reception he has yet had. Ladies, ministers, volunteers, firemen, — indeed, the whole population seemingly, — accompanied him to the water's edge. Steamers and boats innumerable flecked the harbour ; the former crowded tier over tier with spectators, from whom uprose one great shout of farewell, while the glow of the sunset still TllllOUUil UIUTISII NORTH AMKItU'A. 123 lingered over the scene, and lit up town and harl)our A"* /''««« in a halo of softened lij^bt. "" Sr. Jolin. i FiiUrf, St JlOiu Rivov (outwiinU) The people of St. John are more excitable than those of Halifax. Usually independent, and occa- sionally turbulent, they have yet upon this occasion shown remarkable order and forbearance. The taste displayed in the decorations of their town was not, I think, equal to that of Halifax. In some respects these young communities have outstripped and set a good example to the mother country. Trial by jury, for instance, in civil cases, is by a majority of five to two. Law and equity are merged in one jurisdiction, though not in one system, as in Nova Scotia. The standard of political morality is said to be very low, and the weapon of personal abuse freely used. The hearty " good-bye" still rang in our ears as ^ I i! 24 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Nova Scotia, the Sti/s sped on her way with a smooth sea, and stretched across the Bay of Fundy for Hantsport. 8 August. '■ Good-bye," Cuiiuton. H. R. H. landed at 6.30 a.m., half-an-hour after the Sii/j; had anchored, and travelled by carriage to Windsor, thence by lail to Truro, and from Truro by carriage (forty miles) to Pictou, where the Flying Fish took him on board the Hero. The agricul- tural population through which we passed assembled from all parts to greet him, arches spanned the road, and ever-recurring addresses were received. Lord and Lady Mulgrave, the Bishop, and General Trol- lope, dined on board. Lord Mulgrave, with his A. D. C. Capt. Stapleton, went on to Canada in the Ariadne ; the General, with his A. D. C.'s Colonel Fordyce and Captain Armstrong, returned to Hali- fax, the former to administer the government in the absence of the Lieut. -Governor. There was \ THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 25 Prince Ed- ward Island. 9 Aujrust. unfortunately no time to visit the Pictou coal-mines, where the coal is of the extraordinary thickness of thirty-five feet. We left Pictou early on the following morning for Prince Edward Island. The squadron now consisted of Hero, Nile, Ariadne, Valorous, Cossack, and Flying Fish. The Nile grounded in coming up, and did not enter the harbour of Charlotte Town, but proceeded at once with the Valorous to Gaspe, en route for Quebec. The Prince landed at twelve, in doubtful weather ; and, traversing the one long street, lined as usual with cheering spectators, and decorated with spruce arches, reached Government House, which is well situated close to the water. It accommodated all the party except Teesdale, Grey, and myself, who were lodged at Mr. Wellington Nelsoti's. The afternoon was so thoroughly wet that no one stirred out till late in the afternoon, when the Prince rode. A dinner party of thirty closed the day's proceedings. Lieut. -Governor Dundas and his wife are very agreeable people, and lately married. Charlotte Town is a long straggling place, built almost entirely of wood, and presents few objects of interest. A levee was held at eleven at Government House, lo August. at which 300 attended; after which H. R. H. pro- ceeded to the Province Buildings, to receive ad- dresses. In the afternoon the Prince rode on horseback. I drove out with Stephen Swabey, and ascended the tower of the Roman Catholic College, which commands a very fine panoramic view over '1' ■m 2G PROGRESS OF U. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Prince Ed- ward Island, 11 August. the island. At 7.30 there was a dress dinner; and in the evening a ball at the Province Buildings. Some Micmac Indians grouped themselves on the lawn, dressed in their usual gay attire ; the head- gear of the women recalling the tall caps of Nor- mandy. ""^SviSj, Si'^fJrJit ^^^^^' -";- -V'^^- Micmao Women. At 1 p. M. the Prince embarked. The Lieut. - Governor and Mrs. Dundas accompanied him to the ship, and lunched on board. The harbour pre- sented the unusual sight of five men-of-war, four English and one French ; the latter the Pomone of fifty guns, Commodore Marquis de Montaignac, late a Newfoundland fishery commissioner. We got un- der weigh at 3 p.m. in heavy rain. And so ends H. R. H.'s visit to the " Lower Provinces;" a visit which, it is to be hoped, has done much good in drawing forth decided evidence of the loyalty of the colonists to the Queen, and of their affectionate attachment to the mother country, I THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 27 and to the institutions under which they enjoy the Prhwe Ed- ,. , 1 1 T.' 1 Ti. i. ward Iduiul. treest personal and political liberty. (.'harlotlu Town. The four scenes of the first Act have closed, and the curtain is about to rise on Act the second. And, indeed, we hope it will rise ere long ; for no curtain can he thicker than the fog which now envelopes us, and threatens to hide altogether the promised beauties of Gaspe Bay. Captain Orlebar, who has been in charge of the Hero from Newfoundland, accompanies us to Quebec. He is a most worthy person, and thoroughly well acquainted with the North American waters, having been for a long tm f m * l^ii THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 29 were immediately attached from the Ariadne; and after long and ineffectual efforts, a sudden snap of one of the cables jerked her afloat, to our great relief. The Sheriff of Gaspe took advantage of our position, and came off with an address. Canada. Gaspo. iji :^*y> V f Gaspe Bay. The Canadian Ministers now arrived on board to pay their respects ; amongst them, my acquaint- ances, Messrs. Rose, Ross, Gait, and Sydney Smith. In steaming out of the harbour a man fell over- board, and, though unable to swim, contrived to keep himself afloat till picked up by one of our boats ; a trying incident to Sir Edmund, who must have been reminded of his own sad loss just twelve months since. At 2.30 the Executive, not relishing the freshening breeze in the ofling, returned to their boat. Fog again enveloped us, and in the evening we lost our !l. ^f. Canada. St. Lawrence. River St. Lawrenee, 14 August. 30 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES consorts, notwithstanding guns fired, blue lights burnt, and rockets let off. We enjoyed, however, a fair breeze, the first since we parted with the fleet on July 10th! In the St. Lawrence river! Passed Capes St. Anne and Chatte, bold headlands, — otherwise the shores are in this the lower portion of the river's course, for the most part, monotonous and tame. Cape Chatte — ■'Ai'iiidno ■■ \vaiting to pick up '■ Fiyiu^ Fisb." The Sn^mciiuy, 15 August. A most remarkable sunset ! impossible to describe with pen or brush ! Lay to off Farther Point, in the vain hope of seeing the Governor-General, and re- ceiving letters from home; reached the mouth of the Saguenay at 8.30 a.m. The Hero is so fond of Canadian land, that she went on shore again in making the mouth of the Saguenay ;— the Pilot took her well across Bar Patch shoal, within a few feet of the warning buoy ; — but she was off again in an hour, without sustaining any very material damage. We are again disap- pointed in not receiving letters,— three mails due ! and not one letter yet from England ! The day THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 31 is threatening, and cold ; but after breakfast the Prince embarked on board the Governor-General's steamer, and we proceeded up the Saguenay. The entrance is fine. At the mouth lies the little vil- lage of Tadousac, the earliest European and Jesuit settlement; and, until lately, a post of the Hud- son's Bay Company : Mr. Price, a merchant of Quebec, has a large lumber establishment here. One of the guns which saluted the Prince from the village is said to have belonged to Jacques Cartier, whose namesake and descendant, the pre- sent Prime Minister of Canada, is with us. The cliffs, which are clothed at their summits with wood, rise with extraordinary abruptness, almost perpen- dicularly from the water's edge ; and the sounding- line, in parts, finds no bottom : off Capes Trinity Canada. Saguenay. V 'I* C'lipos Trinity and Eternity. and Eternity, the grandest point of the river ; the soundings are forty-eight fathoms. :.l 32 PROGRESS OF II. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada. Sagucnaj'. IG AuKUHt. The formation of these rocks is remarkable, and belongs to what Sir W. Logan has termed the Lau- rentian formation. The gloom, fabled to be ever hanging over this river, was to-day realized ; for the rain descended in torrents, and the dark sky lent an Avernus-like look to the scene. The stiff head-wind and driving rain prevented our reaching Ha-Ha Bay, sorely to the disappointment of its loyal inhabi- tants. At L'Anse aux Erables the steamer put about ; and, with the ebbing tide and stream in our favour, we regained the ships at 8 p. m. A brilliant morning promised us an enjoyable ex- cursion, if not successful fishing. We left the Hero at C A.M., breakfasting on board the Tadousnc steamer. Off the mouth of the river numerous seals, and large flights of gulls, were sporting and revelling in the early sunshine The white seal is occasionally seen ; one showed itself to us to-day. The Prince first touched Canadian land at the mouth of the Ste. Marguerite, a pretty stream falling into the Sa- guenay. Soon afterwards, eight or ten rods were whipping the water for sea-trout, which were said to abound with each flowing tide. None, however, would rise to our flies, although we caught a few river trout. As the tide rose, we were driven for refuge to the rocks and boulders which lay in the river's bed ; the Prince was on one occasion com- pletely insulated. Canoes soon came to the rescue, and took us off from point to point, and ultimately landed us at the encampment, where tents had been pitched, and luncheon prepared on a rising grassy t I k ..('^ I THROUOII niUTISlI NORTH AMERICA. .13 mound overlooking the rivor, and backed up by a magnificent scarped rock clothed with foliage. After luncheon the Prince and most of the party proceeded up the stream in canoes to the salmon-pools, where he played a salmon for some time, but unfortunately lost him. The return down the rapids was described to be most exciting and interesting. In the mean- time the English mail had been brought up from the St. Lawrence by a small steamer, — a most unex- pected and welcome arrival, — which brought me the first letter from my wife ! While the Prince was up the stream, Mr. Gait and I got into canoes, and, fishing with the falling tide, caught some eight or nine brace of trout. I shall never forget that lovely scene ; — the balmy evening air had tempered the scorching heat of the day ; the sun had set to the water, though not to the hills around ; and the splash of the fish, as they rose all about us, hardly broke to the ear the calm deep silence which overlaid the placid bosom of the fair Ste. Marguerite. The Prince's returninff boat warned us to be off. It was dark before we regained the Hero, and the Aurora Borealis was streaming up into the zenith in soft and tremulous brilliancy. We are under weigh before six o'clock. The St. Lawrence improves in beauty. The north shore shows a high bold outline ; the south is lower, with clearings for some miles inland, backed up by dark pine woods, and fringed along the shore with whitened farmhouses glistening in the bright sun. The ships came to their anchorage at Macheaux D Canada, Sajiiii'iiiiy. i. The St. l^awrence, 17 August. Canada. Quebec, 18 August. 34 PROGRESS OF H. R. 11. THE PRINCE OF WALES Roads, off the lie d'Orleans, ten miles below Quebec, at six o'clock. The Governor- General, the Ministers, and ether visitors, dined on board the Hero. We remained at anchor till one o'clock ; long before which time the ships were surrounded by a flotilla of river boats crowded with people, and orna- mented with spruce and flags. Numerous were the salutations of the young naval officers to the pretty faces which surrounded them. Thus accompanied the squadron steamed up to Quebec, and anchored at 3.30 p. M. under the salutes of the Admiral's squadron and the citadel. The beauty of the scene. -h >,i#^ Quebec. SO often extolled, fully deserves all that has boen said in its praise. At four o'clock the Prince landed, in uniform, amidst the most extraordinary manifestations of delight, the people crowding in dense masses up from the water's edge to the heights of Cape Dia- THnoUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 35 mond. After an address from the municipal autho- rities, received and answered at the landing-place, the Prince and his suit*^ proceeded in carriages through the principal streets of the city, which were literally wreathed with evergreens, to Cataraqui, the country residence of the Governor- General, the absence of whose Lady we all regretted. It is vhree miles from the town, beautifully situated upon and overhanging the river St. Lawrence. Teesdale, Grey, and I were at Spencer Wood, recently destroyed by fire, but a small portion of which ha'i escaped, and had been fitted up for our accommodation. Captain Retallack was our host. At Quebec we found Lord Lyons, who accompanies the Prince during the remainder of his tour. With him were two of his attaches, F. Warre and H. Jenner ; also General Sir Fenwick Williams of Kars ; his military secretary. Colonel RoUo, and his A. D. C.'s Captains Earle and De Winton ; Sir Allan McNab, Sir Etienne Tache, both recently appointed A. D. C.'s to the Queen; Mr. Pennefather, the Go- vernor-General's private secretary, &c. &c. Sunday, — we drove into Quebec to the cathedral service at 10.30, returning to Cataraqui. In the evening, before dinner, General Bruce, Dr. Acland, and I paid a visit to Mr. Price, and strolled about his charming grounds, which adjoin those of Spen- cer Wood. He pointed out to us the exact spot where the first man of Wolfe's invading force climbed the steep, and surprised the picket, whose entrench- ment is still traceable. Canada, {Quebec l| 19 Augu.st. : ., w; ill I' n Canada. Quebec, 20 August. 21 August. 36 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES A thoroughly wet day ; — nevertheless the Prince started at twelve for the Chaudiere Falls, in car- riages to Caprouge, thence across the river in the Hero's barge, and on horseback to the Falls. The rain descended in torrents; we rode fast, and all the party were encased in mud from head to foot. We were much pleased with the Falls, which, like ourselves, were much discoloured by the rain. On our return to the landing-place we found an excel- lent luncheon prepared by Mr. Sanderson, our clever New York caterer. In returning, in a small steamer, to Caprouge, at low water, we had to climb the steep sides of a lumber wharf, when some of our party got afloat on a small raft while attempting to reach the shore. Altogether we had a very merry day. We left the quiet and pleasant retreats of Cata- raqui and Spencer Wood to take up our quarters in Quebec at the Parliament House. The Prince drove into town at eleven in uniform, to hold a levee in the Council Chamber, at which 700 or 800 per- sons attended. The two Speakers, Narcisse Bel- leau and Henry Smith, received the honour of knighthood at the Prince's hands. Addresses threaten to become overwhelmingly numerous, and flow in in a continuous stream. The arrangements for our accommodation at Parliament House were admirably made under the direction of the Hon. Mr. Rose, Minister of Public Works, an excellent quar- ter-master-general. Our sitting-rooms commanded one of the loveliest views in the world. At three a state luncheon was held in the Cham- ail i 6 r'1 f 4 ■!■ m THROUGH BRITISK NORTH AMERICA. 37 Quebec. ber of the House of Assembly ; and in the afternoon Camuia. we drove to the Falls of Montmorenci. This river, though apparently owing allegiance as a tributary to the St. Lawrence, closes abruptly its turbulent course in a deep gulf, within a few yards of the " Great River," and disappears at once and for ever, without aiding to swell its stream. This, and the no less curious phenomenon of the " na- tural steps " higher up the beautiful valley of the St. Charles, were worthy of a longer visit than we could afford to pay them ; in returning we saw an exqui- site sunset effect upon citadel, town, and river. Quebec and its neighbourhood well deserve the praises lavished upon their beauty ! After a dinner party of twenty-four the Prince and his party at- tended a ball in the Music-hall, a large room, filled with a well-dressed assemblage. It was beautifully ornamented, and indeed the decorations throughout the city show singular taste and skill. Dancing was kept up till 3.30 a. m., when H. R. H. retired. A quiet day. In the forenoon the Prince visited 22 August. Laval University and the Ursuline Convent — the right to enter which is claimed and exercised by Her Majesty's Representative. A state luncheon was held as on the preceding day ; after which we all proceeded to the Citadel, and enjoyed the mag- nificent panoramic view from the heights of Cape Diamond. The attempt to describe such a scene would be useless, and few pens could adequately de- tail its features. The St. Lawrence, 300 feet below, winding into the far distance, and bounded to the , ( I ■ ii J-: ill ' I, 38 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canadii. Quebec. The St. Law- rence River, •23 Aimist. eye by the blue hills of St. Anne's range and other more distant mountains, divided a few miles below the city into two streams by the projecting point of lie d'Orleans, crowded with shipping, amongst which towered the stately forms of the Royal and Ad- miral's squadrons — with the softening mellow light of the setting sun shed over mountain, river, and town — formed a most charming picture ; while on the other side of us were the chief points of historic interest — Wolfe's Cove and the Heights of Abra- ham. — In the evening there was a display of fire- works on the heights, and the men-of-war were brilliantly illuminated. Our stay at this lovely city was all too short. H. R. H. embarked at 1 1 a.m. on board the steamer Kingston. The party now included the Governor- General, with his Military and Civil Secretaries ; Lord Lyons, with his two attaches ; General Sir F. Williams, with Colonel Rollo and two A.D. C.'s; the Commodore, Lord Mulgrave, M. Cartier, Mr. Rose, Sir Allan McNab, Sir Etienne Tache, Colonel Irving, &c. &c. The shores were crowded as on landing, and the leave-taking was a brilliant scene, as the Kingston steamed round the HerOy Nile, and Ariadne — the only men-of-war that remained in harbour; the Valorous, Flying Fish, and St?/a:, having gone up with the Admiral to Montreal. After some time it was discovered that Sanderson and the two chefs, with all the provisions, had been left behind. Having picked thorn up, the Kingston was fairly THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 39 under weigh by twelve o'clock. The banks of the river above Quebec are pretty, but without any marked features. It is tidal as high as Lake St. Pierre. Several lumber rafts passed us during the day. The simple habitans mustered in force and welcomed the Prince with hearty loyalty, content if they could only catch a glimpse of him as the steamer rapidly passed, without stopping at the dif- ferent landing-places. He went on shore for a short time at Three Rivers, at 6.30, to receive an address. The Governor-General did not land, as it was here that he lost his son. We lay all night oif the town, which was beautifully illuminated along its river front. Some Canadian songs, admirably sung by the Prime Minister, and the Lancers, enli- vened the evening. The Kingston anchored off Montreal in the af- ternoon ; but landing was postponed till the follow- ing morning, in consequence of the state of the weather, — the tropical rains of the previous night having sadly damaged the decorations and inter- fered with the arrangements. Valorous, Flying Fish, and Stt/.v, were at their moorings, the first shipsof-war ever seen at Montreal. An unfortu- nate accident occurred on the following day to two of them while saluting, which resulted in the loss of three lives. The Prince landed at Montreal — the ancient Hochelaga — at 9 a. m., in threatening A^eather, amid the usual loyal demonstrations. The Mayor, M. Rodier, aflForded some amusement — the gold Canada. St. Lawrence. 24 August. Montreal, 25 August. 1.! ( h il; ^ I 40 PROGRESS OF 11. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES Cnuft'lit. Montrenl. chain of St. John river added much to the magni- ficence of his official robes, with which his whole deportment harmonized, as with stately mien lie read the Corporation address to the Vnwcc— first in French, and afterwards in English. H. R. H. pro- ceeded to open the Exhibition at the Crystal Palace, and received an address, which was read by Sir Edmund Head, as the chairman of the committee ; after which the Bishop offered up a prayer, and the Exhibition was declared to be opened. Here Lord Hinchingbrook and the Hon. C. Eliot joined our party. From this ceremony we drove to Sir Fenwick Williams' house, where the Prince was to lodge. This house belongs to Mr. Rose, but has been occu- pied for some time past by the General ; the view IVom it is very beautiful, in its extent exceeding perhaps that of Quebec. The eye wanders over a large plain bounded by the hills of Maine and Ver- mont, and intersected by the broad St. Lawrence, with its mighty flood spanned by the huge Victoria bridge, which is to be formally opened on this day. The ostensible object of H. R. H.'s visit was now about to be consummated. Arrived at the Station at about 1 p. m., we embarked in a railway saloon car ; but, before starting, the Directors of the Grand Trunk presented their " opening address" in the car itself; while outside, above, and around, press loyal crowds, through whom an opening is made with some difficulty for the Boston Fusiliers, who had come from The States to do the Prince honour. With a warning snort the train moves on 1 ,1 !h mm - --'K^ ' 1 ■'<^>rl -'.iPW '''' l* "-^itfj-mr"^" t^r :.Ai, .. -^^ ^■^ mm ^/j;?.^.. ^_^ jv.; R o :»!. ii i-, R - :- c ■ t -ts,^ ^^-?-;; '^-^^ *» m't'ff^^nil^ plBjg;gg ^iimin| _ II "■ " ■ ;.j ! i«TO »^-ig: iji^w^WSfc^y-Tr-*. "h^' ^•t,' R . :•: c r: 'd ^i -- :. o o y v - ' ---wsqa— iMiii S'iscount (Hinchingbrook) Baron (Lyons) Baronet (Sir A, McXab) Knight (Sir E. Tacbe) Metropolitan (Dr. Fulfonl) Bishop (of Huron) Admiral (^lilne) Commodore (Seymour) Captain (Vansittart) Generals (^\illiams and Bruce) Besides divers Colonels, Majors, Captains, and Esquires. Canada. Montreal. The professions, too, would have been fully repre- sented had Dr. Acland been present ; his absence, and that of Lord St. Germans, we all regretted. After luncheon we strolled about the grounds, while the flotilla of bircL canoes paddled in full song round the island, and on their return took us on board. Lord Lyons, the Commodore, Mr. Rose, and my- self, seated in one, our backs supported by a cushioned bar, our feet and legs wrapped in buffalo skins, our faces towards the bow, with five paddles before and five behind us, found the mode of loco- motion very comfortable. The stroke of the paddle was timed by the cadence of their wild but monoto- nous songs. The whole scene was a strange one, especially when, on crossing to Caughnawaga, all the red faces, squaws, and children, came chattering to the water's edge, to give their rude welcome to the Prince. Once more on board the Kingston, we again shot the rapids of "Lachine" under the glow V. 1,1 i M I 1 I 46 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Caiutda. Montreal. Sherbrookc, 30 August. Ottawa, 31 August. of a most glorious sunset. In the evening the band of the Boston Fusiliers serenaded the Prince. I was dining with the Blackwells, and did not reach the General's house until after their departure. At 9.30 A.M., H. R. H. started for Sherbrooke, to visit the eastern toivns/n'ps, (a railway journey of 180 miles out and in,) where he met with an enthusiastic reception from an essentially English population. He exercised the Queen's prerogative, by restoring to his rank, from which he had been degraded, Mr. Felton, an old naval officer of the great war, who had been Nelson's flag-midshipman ; — an act of clemency which was highly appreciated. I remained at Montreal, having much work to do, and, unfortunately, no time to visit Sir William Lo- gan's Museum. 1 managed, however, to get an hour's ride in the afternoon with Mr. Rose round The Mountain, the views from which, over the great plains of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence, lighted up as they were by the setting sun, were most glorious. In the evening the Prince paid a short visit, as a spectator merely, to the " People's Ball," held in the great ball-room. We left Montreal at 7.30 a.m. by rail to St". Anne's, and thence by steamer to Ottawa, with the exception of thirty minutes spent in the railway cars from Carillon to Grenville, owing to the ne- cessity of turning the rapids. The dark and red tinted waters of the Ottawa River contrast strongly with those of the St. Lawrence ; but, like th>3 latter, it frets and races down many a rapid, though its THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 47 bank? are comparatively tame in this the lower portion of its course; on this evening it was in- debted to a most magnificent sunset, which lent it unusual charms. On nearing Ottawa the Prince was met by 120 canoes, each manned by eight or ten men ; some few, Indians, but the greater number " Lumber-men," employed in the lumber or timber trade, all costumed in red shirts. They formed in two lines, right and left of the steamer, which they accompanied up to the city, chanting their boat- songs as they paddled. The Rideau Falls formed a pretty background to this lively scene. C'unndd. Ottawii. II Rideau Falls The approach to, and the site of, the future Capi- tal of Canada, is very picturesque ; but we have no time for description, as the clouds which have been assisting to form the fine 'sun-set we admired so much, now threaten to drench us. So we disem- - --»■' ««• 48 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada. Ottawa. 1 September. bark in haste, and listen, with assumed gravity, to the City address; which is so long that self- preservation prevails over patience, and umbrellas and overcoats are put up and put on ; and the tor- rent of rain almost drowns the torrent of words. We scramble into our carriages, and, when securely housed, have time to pity the thousands of poor people, all dressed in their best, many of whom had come in from the country to see and welcome the Prince. Thoroughly drenched, and paddling along the miry roads, we reached the Victoria Hotel at 8.30, and dined in an hour afterwards. At 1 1 A. M. the ceremony took place of laying the first stone of the new Parliament House. The question of the selection of Ottawa as the future Capital of Canada is still with many a vexed one. It does not, it is true, at first sight appear happy ; and this generation will not probably see it a large town, or commanding an important trade, as the river is at present not navigable throughout. The lumber trade, v/hich now is its chief support, must fail, too, at last. The impediments to the free navi- gation of the river may, however, be ultimately surmounted ; and in the mean time there are other and good countervailing reasons for the selection. The new Parliament Houses are progressing, and promise to be very imposing, both in themselves and from their position, placed as they will be upon a steep cut rock overhanging the river, and com- manding a fine view of the Falls, and of the back country beyond. On the opposite cliff, across m^ f THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 49 the Rideau Canal, is the site of the intended resi- dence of the Governor-General. After luncheon we rode to the "Falls," passing under a most imposing "Arch of Welcome," constructed by Mr. Gilmore's lumber-men, entirely of deals ; the timber was merely stacked, no nails being used, and comprised 300,000 cubic feet of wood, of the value of £800. Mr. Gilmore, who is one of the largest mill proprietors, had prepared a " crib" for the Prince and his party. These " cribs " are in fact portions of rafts which are resolved into their original component parts, for the purpose of being floated down slides or inclined planes into the smooth water below the falls or rapids of a river, by which the rafts, if entire, would be broken up and destroyed. Some twenty of us embarked on the " crib," and took up our position in the after-part. On the rope being cut, we glided off rapidly down the sloping water, which foamed up and broke over the forepart of our frail craft. The whole slide is divided into portions, some of which are much more rapidly inclined than others, at the foot of each steeper incline there is what is called a " floating apron" of timbers, which serves to break the im- petus the " crib" acquires in its descent. The sen- sation of descending this watery hill is novel and delightful. Canoes took us off the " crib" to an island, and thence to a large boat moored in mid-stream, from which we witnessed the canoe races ; thousands of spectators thronging the heights above. A barge Canada. Ottawa. =|. 1 I'M %■ '1 1> mwT' mm 50 PROGRESS OF H. R. 11. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada. Ottawii. 2 September. Ottawa River, 3 September. of Mr. Gilmorc's, specially fitted up for the occasion, took tlic Prince on shore, where our horses were in waiting. I sent mine back, as I wished to sketch the Falls, and to have a closer view of the un- fathomable gulf into which the lost portion of the river tumbles, never, it is said, to re-appear. After a dinner-party of forty, the Executive took their leave, and returned by special train to their re- spective destinations. Divine service in the morning. In the afternoon Mr. Rose and I strolled out and spent two pleasant hours by the river bank. Leaving Ottawa at 8 a. m., we drove nine miles to Aylmer ; from Aylmer to Chats Portage by steamer; from Chats Portage, in canoes, to Arn- prior (2.30 p. m.) ; from Arnprior to Almonte in car- riages (5.30 p. M.) ; from Almonte to Brockville by rail (8 p. m.) — a journey in all of 120 miles. This was a most exciting and fagging day. At Chats Portage the river falls in a series of cascades, which extend for half a mile round a bay of the river, and force their way through the thick and dark pine woods which clothe its sides. Close under these picturesque falls the steamer wends her way, and lands us eventually on the right bank. A walk of a mile through the wood brought us to the canoes, in which we paddled up the river. The canoes round projecting points, struggle up steep rapids, urge their way through rocks and broken water, each emulous of its neighbours, and jealous of the second place, the Royal boat being THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 51 always in tho van. A small canoe with three In- dians and two squaws, one with her papoose in her arms, held its own with and sometimes outstripped Canada. Ottawa Kivcr. Cunoea ixp thn Ottawa. the rest, although more strongly manned. The papoose seemed quite callous to the hot sun, which streamed down upon its naked head. So strange was the whole scene that it required no great flight of imagination to fancy ourselves Iroquois starting on some warlike expedition under our great chief. We soon reached a second portage, which obliged us to walk through the woods, and, as its name implies, to carry our canoes with us. These were borne along inverted on the heads of the boatmen. A curious sight it was to see these painted bodies upon legs not their own, pushing their way through the bright green underwood and under the tall trees, # I 1 ^' - / /J mm Canada. Ottawa River. Brock ville, 4 September. 52 PROORESS OF II. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES looking like some strange monsters, all painted as they were with grotesque figures of hird or beast. The paddle across the lake, into which they were launched at the end of the portage, was excessively hot and trying. From Arnprior, after a splendid luncheon at jNIr. McLoughlin's house, we drove to Almonte. A rough ride of eighteen miles through a half- cleared country, over what is called a ** corduroy road," that is, round logs of wood laid transversely, tried our patience and our springs. Most amusing were the mishaps that attended some of our numerous followers. The dust was blinding, the pace good, and the jolts terrific. It was a wild huntsman's ride, and we were not sorry when we reached the comparative quiet of the railway car, which carried us to Bro> ille. Here, however, no repose awaited us. An address had to be received, the arrangements were not of the best, and H. 11. H. was put to some inconvenience in extricating him- self from an unruly crowd. The excitement of the people passed all belief. Through flaring torches, squibs, rockets, fire and smoke, cheers, hubbub, and confusion, we passed on as best we could, some on foot, and some in carriages, to our old quarters, the Kingston steamer. The Prince landed this morning for an hour and drove round the town. At 11.30 we were under weigh for Kingston, and soon reached the Lake of the " Thousand Islands." The scenery is pretty, but its praises are, I think, much exaggerated ; its great feature is the number of islands, of varied shape and THROUGH UltlTISH NORTH AMKUICA. 53 size, all repeating themselves in the glassy surface Canada. of the quiet waters. The beauty of fully half the ^. , * •' ^ St. Lttwreiice. landscape is consequently lost on any other than a calm and sunny day. Tli'^usaad Islands." t I 1 Kingston, the Indian Cafartifjui, was reached at 4 P.M., and here occurred the first check to the full flow of our hitherto successful course. The Orange- men thought the occasion of the Prince's visit a good opportunity for a grand display of so-called religious zeal. Their chiefs, for the manufacture of political capital. They were determined to receive the Son of their Queen in their own way or not at all, and had prepared a gaudy display of their own peculiar symbols and habiliments, significant at least of defi- ance to their Roman Catholic fellow-subjects. It is impossible to enter into details which would occupy much space ; suffice it to say that the Orange party, both here and elsewhere, had been distinctly warned, Kingston. . I ii 54 PROGRESS OF U. R. 11. THE PRINCE OF WALES KingHton. Canada. on the Princo first entering Canada, that any spe- cial display would be distasteful and embarrassing. Mayors trimmed, promised, and performed not ; Orange chiefs vapoured and paraded their bands, and flaunted their flags in the l*rince's eyes as the King- ston \ay off the \nvir o( i\mr town. "No surrender" was their cry ; — but they knew not the Minister whose firmness they have since experienced. 5 September. Negotiations continued, but with no success, the authorities of the city either fearing or conniving. The Prince, having condescended to wait thus long, determined to receive the local addresses on board the steamer, and then to proceed at once to Belleville. None, however, had the courage to brave the wrath of the Orangemen except the J\Ia- gistrates and the Presbyterian Synod. At 1.30 P.M. we were again under weigh, leaving all the preparations for levee, dinner, and ball to the natives. The flags were still flying, drums beating, and Orangemen more confident than ever that their " no surrender " would compass the sur- render of the Prince, when we steamed away for the Bay of Quinte. Our only regret was that the more sensible, and we will hope the greater, part of the community should be disappointed of the Prince's visit, owing to the fantasies of a few enthusiasts. The ladies were, of course, the objects of our pro- found sympathy, for they lost their ball. The Bay of Quinte is pretty ; its winding course resembles an S. At eight we were off Belleville for the night. I. ! mmmmmmtmmKmmm^^i "I tmrnmrnmummmmmmmmmm THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 55 The Belleville people were not disinclined to forego any Orange demonstration ; but they were overper- suaded or overawed by numbers who came up from Kinffston. The state of thinjjs continuino- to be un- satisfactory, at noon the Kingstoji started, retracing her course through the Bay of Quinte to Cobourg, which was reached shortly after 8 p.m. This dis- appointment was, we understood, keenly felt at Belleville, as much pains had been taken in deco- rating the town ; we, too, were sorely disappointed at not witnessing the intoi'ded reception of the Prince by fifty young ladies on horseback. At Cobourg, though an Orange stronghold, good sense prevailed, in the absence of the Kingston deputies, whose train accidentally broke down some ten miles from the town ; and the Prince having been invited to a ball, he landed at ten, and pro- ceeded to the Court-house, which was brilliantly illuminated, and at the entrance of which, in the open air, he received the Corporation address in the presence of thousands. Tlie ball, I heard, was very good ; but I was not there, in consequence of a very bad cukl. H. R. IL, the Duke, Lord 8t. Germans, and General Bruce, slept at Mr. Sydney Smith's house ; the rest returned on board. A fagging day, especially to me, as I was already knocked up. We started at 10 a.m. by rail, over Rice Lake, to Peterboro', thence to Port Hope and Whitby, where we rejoined the K'utgsfon. The day appeared to me as one long, rattling, bust- ling, cheering, feasting, hot, dusty, fitful dream. Canada. Belleville, 6 September. Cobourg. r I Toronto, 7 September. mm Canada. Toronto. 5G PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES The sight that presented itself, on nearing Toronto at 6.30, roused me. Thousands upon thousands lined the shore, and stretched away upwards and inwards in one large amphitheatre of human faces, interspersed with flags, arches, and decorations ; — as a popular demonstration, it was the most striking exhibition we had yet seen. The Mayor gave satis- factory assurances that there would be no party pro- cessions, and that the picture of William III, which we had heard was exhibited upon the Orange arch, had been removed, and a transparency of the Prince substituted. The Prince thereupon landed, and re- ceived the Corporation address under a lofty canopy, placed in the centre of the arc of the great semicircle of the surrounding thousands. It was dusk before the proceeding was over. As we drove to Govern- ment House we found the town profusely decorated, and among the numerous arches which spanned the main street there presented itself, in direct violation of the Mayor's promise and assurance, the tran- sparency of William III. crossing the Boyne. Tlie foremost horses of the Princes carriage were already under the arch before the Duke perceived it. On arriving at Government House he sent for the Mayor, pointed out to him the deception which had been practised on the Prince, and plainly told him that, unless reparation were made, he should advise H. 11. H. to mark his displeasure in an emphatic manner, and that in the meantime the Mayor would see the propriety of absenting himself from the levee. THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 57 ) i Toronto, 8 September. I was fairly tired out the night before, and did not Canada. leave my room till 11a. m. The levee lasted from 11 to 12.30. The Mayor and Council were not present. The afternoon was thoroughly wet, and was devoted to business ; a large dinner party at eight of the local notabilities, excepting the Mayor. The excitement in the town was considerable, with much vapouring on the part of the Orangemen. The Mayor, however, ultimately apologised, and acknowledged that he had led the Duke astray, the jury of councilmen strongly recommending him to mercy, as for a first offence. The Grand Master now did what he could to allay the excitement, and bring his brethren to reason. The Duke promptly accepted the Mayor's apology. At 10.15, H. R. H. went by invitation to an evening party at Osgoode Hall, where are the Courts of Law. This building has been recently erected, and admirably constructed, with a view to the special purpose for which it is intended, and reflects great credit upon the taste of the lawyers. The reception of the address by the Prince in the central hall was a very pretty sight, the marble balcony round being filled with ladies. H. R. H., the Duke, and Lord St. Germans were admitted members of the Society ; after which dancing succeeded, till on the approach of midnight the Prince retired. I left earlier, after having examined the different Courts, &c. under the guid- ance of a bencher. Wo attended the Cathedral at eleven, avoiding in 9 Scptembc our way the main street, and the (trch which ad- %t-.ef::i»; 58 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada, joined the church. This enraged some Orange par- „, tisans; and during divine service they surrounded WiUinm HI. with more banners, and flaunted flags in the Prince's face as he left the cathedral. There was some suggestion, too, of taking the horses out, and dragging the carriage under the arch ; this, however, ended in talk ; and after considerable crowding we got away. This day of rest has been sadly broken in upon by work ; for which the reli- gious scruples of the Orangemen are mainly respon- sible. In the afternoon the Duke walked down to the arch, to see and judge for himself, and to give the lie to the rumour that he could not show his face abroad. General 15ruce and I accompanied him. On returning we were followed by a rabble, who hissed and jeered. But there were friends, too, at hand ; and the calm bearing of his Grace shamed the crowd into something like a cheer as we turned into the grounds of Government House. The Go- vernor-General and Colonel Bradford accompanied us on our meeting them in the University avenue. The history of this wretched business lies in a small compass, and is sufficiently read in the various let- ters which passed between the Duke and the Mayor, beginning with that addressed by the former to the Governor-General upon the subject generally. The secret history, of course, lies deeper, and has more extended ramifications ; but good will spring out of this as out of other evil. Lake lliivon, Wc started at 8.30 for CoUingwood, on the shores 10 September. ^^ Lake Huron, through a fine agricultural country. -«fifctS«L_) THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 59 Toronto. The railway, a single track line is driven right Cavmia. through the forest, which only awaits a denser popu- lation and a more extended enterprise to be con- verted into farms and homesteads. Even where the land has been cleared it is long before all traces of the old woodland disappear, as the trees are only cut down, not grubbed up ; and the plough works round their charred stumps for many a long year, until the natural decay of the roots, and the action of fire and the axe, gradually convert the bristling field into a smooth pasture. The train stopped several times for wood and water. No village, however small, failed to present its own special address, and to erect its own special arch in honour of the Prince. CoUingwood, a thriving town on the southern shore of the Georgian Bay, knew no existence six years ago. There is a fine sweep of water upon these huge lakes, and the waves occasionally vie with those of the Atlantic. The Canadian Ministers were nearly lost on this lake last year. Overtaken in a storm, their steamer drifted to the base of some steep cliffs on the western side ; its only anchor fortunately held, and kept them on the verge of deetx'uction until rescued twelve hours afterwards. We -nade a short excursion upon the Lake, returning to Toronto at 6.30. Dr. Denny and General Robinson, of Pitts- burgh, U.S., who had come on a deputotion to makc' arrangements for the Prince's visit to their c^l\> were of our party. A wet and busy day. The treaty of peace having ii Srpieuibci, been signed, the Mayor and Council were presented GO PROGRESS OF H. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada. Toronto. London, 1 '2 September. \( to H. R. H. in the morning. At eleven he went to a regatta, in pouring rain, and thence to the Uni- versity buildings, — a fine structure, — to lay the first stone of a statue to the Queen. On the Prince's return, a deputation of 300, from Belleville, pre- sented an address, and expressing their deep regret that he should have been driven from their city, entreated him to return. A suitable answer was given, but return of course was impossible. At 3 P.M. the Horticultural Gardens and the Normal School were visited ; and in the evening a ball was given to H. R. H. at the Crystal Palace, two miles from the town, excellent in all respects, except in the ventilation of the building, of which we had a little too much, the morning being excessively cold. We returned at 4 a.m. We started at 11 a.m. by Grand Trunk Railway for London, stopping, as usual, to receive addresses, which keep pouring in in one uninterrupted stream. At London — a burlesque on its namesake, which it professes to resemble in every particular, having its Thames, Bond-street, &c. — we found a rough, good- humoured, and enthusiastic population, who carried the Prince's platform by storm, and quite ignored his unfortunate suite. From the windows of the hotel we witnessed a very remarkable torchlight procession of some 300 or 400 firemen, whose evo- lutions through the crowd showed great training and some taste. The whole thing was very scenic. The hearty cheering for the Prince, as also for the Duke, showed forgiveness of what had passed THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, Gl elsewhere, if not approval of the conduct of the latter. At 9 A.M. we started from London hy the Great Western Railway for Sarnia, a journey of three hours. After the usual addresses had been received, seventy- five Ojibways, Chippewas, and other Indians came forward to make their obeisance. Some, who had never before set foot in any settlement, came 400 miles to see the Son of their " Great Mother," and looked what they really were— wild savages— most grotesque in feature and dress, covered with feathers and war-paint. Their spokesman was the Chief of the Ojibways of Garden River on Lake Huron ; his name, being interpreted, is " Fluent Tongue ;" he was dramatic in tone and gesture as he yelled out in flowery language the welcome of the tribes, hoping " that the sky may always look fine to give happiness both to the whites and red-skins;" this was duly interpreted and acknowledged, and silver medals were distributed amongst them, in commemoration of the visit. One old fellow, 103 years of age, was a great warrior in both American Wars. These were the most genuine savages we have yet seen ; they were under the special protection of Penne- father, who, as Civil Secretary, is their patron. After luncheon given by the Grand Trunk Directors, we steamed for a short distance upon Lake Huron. The view of lake and river, and the opposite American shore, across the swift and nar- row stream, is pretty. The train took us back to London without a break by 3 p. m. At four a levee Canada. Sarnia, 13 September. ' I ill 62 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCl OF WALES Canada. Fort Erie, 14 September. was held, and in the evening a ball — one of the best we have had in Canada. We started at 10 a.m. by Great Western Rail- way for Niagara Falls. Who shall describe how we were waylaid at various points, carried into and through and round divers and many towns, to re- ceive addresses, cheers, and luncheons, with abun- dant dust ! How the horses a-head would not go on, and the horses behind would come on so fast, that we were constantly in danger of being im- paled on the pole of our neighbour's carriage ! The Duke was suflFering from acute headache, and must have been especially tried by to-day's proceedings. Woodstock, Brantford, and Paris, were successively visited, and at last we found ourselves at Fort Erie. An amusing incident occurred at Brantford. Our hats, which had been deposited in a dressing-room during luncheon, were found to be denuded of their bands. The Prince was the first to discover this in the train. When it was found that the ivliite hats were the only sufierers, we at once came to the conclusion that His enthusiastic admirers, the young ladies, determined to possess themselves of some relic of Him ; but sorely puzzled to know which was the Royal hat — four or five being white — had un- handed them all. The ruins of Fort Erie, which has played an impor- tant part in the history of Canada, are interesting, as the view from them is beautiful. Bufiklo lies oppo- site, on the American shore. Some of its Militia had come over to do honour to the Prince. From THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA, 63 Fort Eric a steamer carried us to a landing-placo just about the Falls, whose roar we heard in the dis- CaiKidd. Fort Erio. tance, and the spray of which was just visible through the dim twilight. We reached our desti- nation at 8.30. H. R. H., the Duke, Lord St. Germans, and General Bruce, were lodged at Zim- merman's House, we others in cottages adjoining Clifton House Hotel. We are immediately opposite to the mighty Fall, Niagara Fnl!? and its roar strikes the ear, but the eye cannot even trace its outline through the gloom of the dark night. This is tantalizing ; but Mr. Blackwell now, as often, comes to our assistance, and we descend the wooded slope from Zimmerman House and skirt the river towards the Table Rock, unmolested and escaping recognition by the ci'owds, to witness the grand experiment of lighting up the Falls. Grand, ^1 64 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Canada, Ningnra Fulls. 15 September. indeed, it was— who shall describe it? Some eighty Bengal lights, placed below the plateau upon which we were standing, and hidden from our view, bril- liantly illuminated both falls, which stood out in high relief— oceans of white foam — while the sur- rounding framework of the picture was in the blackest night. We lingered long on the brink of this wondrous scene. I can but record our movements, description here is simply impossible. In the forenoon the Prince performed the usual feat of walking under part of the horseshoe fall ; this was a necessary sa- crifice to make to the custom of tourists, for we saw nothing, and were thoroughly drenched. He then went on to Mr. Street's grounds to see the Rapids, and in the afternoon paid a still nearer visit to the Falls in the Maid of the Mist. I accompanied Mr. Blackwell and Colonel Wil- mot to the Suspension Bridge, a beautiful structure by Roebling; thence to the Whirlpool, one of the wildest and most picturesque of scenes ; returning to the bridge in time to see Blondin cross his rope, 1,700 feet long, stretched across the gulf imme- diately below the bridge. He afterwards carried over a man upon his back, and then crossed alone on stilts ! The Prince remonstrated against this last performance, but he persisted. The whole scene was unpleasant, yet strangely fascinating. My two companions and I then pursued our course to Goat Island, and viewed the Falls from the different points on the American side. I came to the conclusion, — V. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ % ^Jif ^-C- J z r 1.1 iai2.8 ■50 ^^* 8h u^Uii 12.2 12.0 lU wuu IM IL25 Ifll !.4 i 1.6 FhotGgrapdiic ^Sciences Corporation 23 WBT MAIN STRUT WiBSTU,N.Y. 145M (716) •7a-4S03 ;\ ^ ■WmPVHBH WRH THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 65 Niagara Falls. which a fuller experience would, I think, confirm, Canada. — that the grandest view of the Falls is from the Canadian side, while the American shore is the most picturesque. The affectation of being disap- pointed with Niagara, though fashionable, seems to me to be simply ridiculous. All form their precon- ceived ideas of the Falls, which; of course, are more or less wide of the mark. I had expected, for in- stance, that the roar of the water would be much more deafening than it is, and was not prepared for so powerful a vibration as to shake the casements and doors, to the extent they rattled throughout the night. But to be disappointed at the scene must be either to possess a grander imagination than is given to most men, or to fall very short in the power of appreciating the actual. It is, however, impossible 'or very hurried travellers to compass the beauties of the Falls ; for, like most things truly great, the more thoroughly they are contemplated, the more grand do their proportions appear. After dinner the Prince and his party went again to Table Rock, to see a repetition, on a smaller scale, of last night's illuminations. Out of three days devoted to Niagara we can ill 16 September. afford to lose one ; and to-day is thoroughly wet. We went to church at Chippewa, three miles dis- tant. In the afternoon Pennefather and I walked to Mr. Street's grounds, and explored the won- derful islets, of which he has made so much, and from which by far the best view is obtained of the rapids above the Falls. It is one of the most F ;, 1)1 •^m viiiam Canath. Niagara Fulls. 17 September. * i Queenstown Heights, 18 September. 66 PROGRESS OF H. R. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES charming retreats in which to muse away a hot summer day, — the fascination of the scene is in- describahle. In the morning, — which was a brilliant one, — the Prince crossed to the American side, to see the beauties of Goat Island. Warre, Pennefather, and I, made the usual expedition in the Maid of the Mist, which is hardly worth the wetting which one is sure to get, as she steams close under and through the spray of the Falls. The effect, how- ever, was very striking, surrounded as we were at one time by a beautiful iris. In the afternoon the Prince drove to the Suspension Bridge to receive an address from the " International Bridge Company," and thence proceeded to the Whirlpool ; he after- wards rode on horseback. Lord St. Germans and others paid a visit to Mr. Street's grounds, while I crossed by the ferry to Goat Island, and spent two pleasant hours with Pennefather and my sketch- book. Some enterprising persons attempted to-day to send a boat over the Falls, in order to afford the Prince a curious spectacle ; but she stranded in the rapids, and broke up. Sir H. Holland joined the dinner party, having just arrived from England. The Comm-odore leaves us to-morrow to rejoin the Hero at Quebec. We left this, the most charming and wonderful spot in Canada, at 9'30, for Queenstown Heights, where the Prince was to lay the first stone of a monument intended to commemorate the death of General Brock, on the exact spot on which he fell. lot in- he he er, of icli n( »w- at the an er- ;wo ch- iay the the the nd. the rful hts, )f a 1 of fell. H ■ Hi"i|»»».M.', ~*;':iT ;■;. i\ ffijjBp; THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 67 Canada. Queenstown Heights. The survivors of the Militia of 1812, to the num- ber of 130, were present. The lofty pillar which now commemorates the General's fame commands a most glorious view ; the river Niagara, after its confined and broken flow, here resumes its calm aspect, and floats out placidly into the blue distance of Lake Ontario. After more than the orthodox amount of crowding, which quite shut out the heroes of the day, the gallant " survivors," the stone was duly laid, the carriages remounted, and the steamer reached, at the very point where the American army crossed the river in 1812. We were soon upon the lake, and in two hours disembarked at Port Dal- housie. After an address received and answered, we entered our carriages, and, under the conduct of a.- Honourable M. P. P., we spent an hour under a broiling sun in traversing the short distance of half a mile to the station of the Great Western Railway. Hamilton was reached at five. A drive through the town brought the Prince to his residence ;— two private houses, beautifully situate in quiet grounds, were appropriated to him and his suite, — the most pleasant domicile we had in Canada. After dinner He went to the Philharmonic Concert. A levee was held at 11.30 at the Royal Hotel; 19 September. after which a so-called private inspection of the annual Agricultural Exhibition; but, through some great mismanagement on the part of the committee, the building and grounds were crowded to excess, and it was quite impossible for the Prince to inspect either live or dead stock. A public luncheon at Hamilton. \l J£ i,wmmi'»' ■ ■ 'ii mm* lummpp r.:zvi^ Canada. Hamilton. Leave Canada, 20 September. 68 PROGRESS OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OP WALES the Royal Hotel followed, after which H. R. H. went down to Burlington Bay, and cruized about in a steamer for two hours. At 10.30 p.m. we went to our last Canadian ball, the seventh of the series. The shape of the ball-room was somewhat curious, as in building it it was necessary to leave projecting into the room the shop of a farrier, who declined to allow it to be pulled down on adequate compensation ; it was consequently enclosed in an ornamental board- ing, and remained, humbly suggestive of the Pots- dam mill. Home at 3.30, and, after an hour's work, to bed at dawn. H. R. H. started at 11.30 a.m. to inaugurate the Agricultural Exhibition, and afterwards to lunch with Sir Allan McNab. At two we were in the cars for Detroit, and reached Windsor, without stoppage, at 8 p. m. A large steamer carried us across the ferry to the American side. Both shores were illuminated; and, as we neared Detroit, the firemen's torches lit up the town, and shed a bright glare over the crowd which awaited at the landing- place the steamer's approach. It was long before we could land, and had at last a sad scramble to get to our carriages through the dense mass of people. We arrived in detachments at the Hotel (the Rus- sell House). Poor Pennefather was less fortunate ; ne was pushed off the quay into the deep and rapid current, and was only rescued after some minutes from his perilous position. I ! THROUGH BRITISH NORTH AMERICA. 69 And here we part with the Governor - General, and here we part from Canada. We shall carry away with us across the border many a pleasant reminiscence of the country we have traversed, and of the friends we have made. Let us look back for a moment upon tho past. The first and most striking point is the extraor- dinary feeling of devotion and attachment to the Queen, and, for her sake, of enthusiastic admiration of the Prince, which has been evinced throughout his progress. This display of loyalty — the honest offering of freemen — which all were prepared to show as an agreeable duty, and for which neither time, money, nor labour were spared, has been accorded with still greater pleasure to their Princely guest, from the esteem and affection which his own per- sonal qualities have inspired. Our hope and belief is that the visit just con- cluded is destined to benefit the great country we have traversed,— no less than the Prince who will one day rule it, — a country full of wonderful capabilities and natural resources, only awaiting a larger deve- lopment. For ourselves, we ought to be very thank- ful that we have been brought thus far on our way with such success, without a single mishap to mar our even progress. Our third Act will comprise the yet unknown scenes of The States. Canada. M •^i«MViWiinwviia9rT:!r9> VISIT OF H. R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES TO THE UNITED STATES. DETROIT, a thriving town of 50,000 inhabi- ^^^J-'J^"'^*;^^^ tants, in its energy and bustle contrasts, it must be confessed, favorably with Windsor, its oppo- site neighbour on the Canadian side. It was one of the earliest of the Jesuit outposts, and has beon en- tirely rebuilt within the last fifteen years. After inspecting it in the forenoon, under the auspices of Mayor Buhl, we drove to the depot of the Central Michigan Railway, and travelled by special train to Chicago. American railway cars are comfortable enough for short journies when the rail is smooth, but the motion is sometimes so violent as to be more than unpleasant. Passengers can step from one car to another, and are free to move from one end to the other of the train ; but as in every case we tra- velled by special trains, many of the inconveniences and disagreeables of ordinary travelling were unfelt. In most cases a directors' car was placed at the dis- posal of the Prince ; in some a special car was built for him ; in all one or more of the directors personally I mmf 72 VISIT OF H. n. II. THE PRINCE OF WALES United Stutea. attended, a pilot engine was sent on to clear the Detroit. ^^^^' every precaution was taken, and every possible attention paid to the comfort and convenience of their distinguished visitor. The line of rails is in most cases a single one, the average gauge being 4 ft. 8 j in.* Our course was usually uninterrupted, and all ordinary traffic was stopped. Chicago. H. R. H., now become Ijord Renfrew, reached Chicago at eight o'clock, and drove to the Richmond House Hotel, through densely crowded streets. Mayor Went.vorth, " Long John " as he is called, was very energetic and arranged matters admirably. His Lordship showed himself for a few minutes on the balcony to the multitude assembled in front of the hotel. 22 September. At 11 A.M. we drovc out to scc the city, accom- panied by the Mayor, Consul Wilkins, &c. One of the Elevators was first visited — a ilour deposit mill holding 750,000 bushels, which are stored in large bins placed high in the building, with long shoots leading down to the vessels loading beneath. The corn or flour deposited is represented by warrantSy which by custom are negotiable. From the cupok of the Court-house — which we next visited — a fine panoramic view is obtained of the city and its en- virons ; so extensive did it look that we could hardly believe that it was plraost a creation of yesterday — * This may bo called the national gauge. The exceptions to it arc, some of the Ohio lines of a 4 ft. 10^ in. gauge ; those north of Portland 5 ft. G in. ; the Ohio and Mississippi line G ft. ; New York and Erie also ft. Canadian lines, with one or two unimportant pxceptions, are of a 5 ft. 6 in. gauge. TO THE UNITED STATES. n twenty-five years ago it was scarcely a village ; as a United stata. town it is but twenty years old, and now it numbers ciiicu^'o. 140,000 souls ; its streets are broad, well lighted, and provided with central railways. It was originally built on too low a level, and was consequently un- healthy, liable as it was to be overflowed by Lake Mi- chigan. The majority of the houses, however, large as well as small, have recently been raised to the proper level by an ingenious process of screwing ; this operation does not interfere with the ordinary occupations of the inmates, or with the adjoining houses; it advances by night as well as by day, and another step p.dded to the flight is the only evidence in the morning of what has been going on in the night. The large hotel, the Tremont House, is to be raised shortly, at a cost of 150,000 dollars. We saw one entire house being transported along the street. In returning we visited the Historical Asso- ciation, and a large theatre-like building called a " wigwam," — a kind of " political machine " where " conventions" are held. After luncheon the Prince left for the Prairies of Illinois, and travelled eighty miles by rail to his shooting quarters at Dwight. Lord St. Germans, Warre, Jenner, and myself re- main at Chicago until Monday, when we go direct to St. Louis. Consul Wilkins took Lord St. Germans ..nd my- 23 September. self to St. James's Episcopal Church, where we heard an excellent sermon from Dr. Clarkson. We started at nine in a special car for St. Louis. 24 September. Stopping for a few minutes at Dwight, we saw Lord ri t^gim wmmmm 74 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PllINCE OF WALES United States. LyoHs and Dr. Acland, who reported well of the StTouis shooting quarters in Mr. Spencer's house. The track, perfectly straight for twenty-five miles, lay over the Prairies, which stretched away, on either side of the railway, in rolling undulations to the ho- rizon, broken up in parts by plantations of Indian corn, with patches of low scrub, chiefly sumach, coloured with a thousand brilliant tints; to this succeeded wood, until we neared Springfieldy the capital of the state, and the residence of Mr. Lincoln, one of the candidates for the Presidency. At nine we reached East St. Louis, and were ferried over the Mississippi to Saint Louis proper, landing at the LeveCy which was crowded with huge steamers. We arrived at Barmim's Hotel, at 9 p.m. 2j September. St. Louis is onc of the oldest of American cities ; it is the contre of a vast commercial system ; its water-carriage extending 1,200 miles to New Or- leans on the south, and 2,400 miles up the Missouri to the north. It has nothing imposing in its ap- pearance, and seems to be badly drained ; cases of yellow fever are said to have occasionally occurred. In the afternoon we visited the great agricultural Fair, which is annually held at this time of the year. The chief attraction were the fast trotting-horses, which were shown oflP in a large circus. Wander- ing out in the evening, we fell in with a stump orator holding forth on the steps of the Court- house, in support of Mr. Breckenridge, the South- ern democratic candidate for the Presidency. Be- tween his views and those of the other section of TO THE UNITED STATES. 75 United States. the democratic party, represented by Mr. Douglas, certain differences exist on the subject of slavery, g^ L^uig. the absorbing topic of the day, and the pivot upon which the forthcoming election will turn— differences described by the orator as being "as high as heaven and as deep as hell." These differences unexpectedly took a practical turn, and with a cry of " Out with your arms, Douglas men!" there was a rush and scrimmage, in which one knife at least was drawn and used. We, taking no interest in these high and deep differences, thought we would not incur their penalties, so left their advocates to maintain them, and retreated to Barnum's. At noon we started on board the City of Alton 26September. steamer to meet the Prince at Alton, twenty miles up the river. The Mississippi, " Father of Waters," though unquestionably a great river, is as certainly disappointing, at least in this portion of its course. Its volume is great, and the current rapid ; but its breadth is inconsiderable for so mighty a stream, and its features are not so striking as those of the St. Lawrence. Fine scenery is, however, to be found higher up, towards tho falls of St. Anthony. The navigation is very curious and difficult, and the steamers are ingeniously adapted to it. They are worked on the high-pressure principle, are flat- bottomed, and draw very little water. The City of Alton is 265 feet long, and draws only three and a half feet ; her engines were working 125 lbs. to the square inch-] 50 lbs. being the limit allowed by law. The Imperial, one of the largest class boats, 76 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES St. Louis. United States, is 300 feet long, forty-three wide, and draws three feet six inches, and, when loaded, nine feet of water. She is magnificently fitted up with sleeping cabins, saloons, &c., and cost 90,000 dollars ; she performs the voyage to New Orleans in five days. As we ascended the river, the skeleton of many a ship as large as our own warned us of the perils of the na- vigation, from the numerous snags which, when the water is low, point their sharp noses upwards in all directions. Several trees near the shore were in process of being turned into these snags. The banks of the river are very yielding, and, when un- dermined by the action of the water, fall in; the trees carried away with the falling bank are floated off by some freshet, and being green and heavy at the root, become firmly embedded in the soft mud, while the upper part floats and lurks just below the surface ; piercing in a moment the flat bottom of the large steamer if not avoided by the skilful pilot, who knows from the break of the water where the danger lies. The distinction between the muddy waters of the Missouri and the clear stream of the Mississippi is very marked ; they do not intermingle for several miles below their junction, which we passed about a mile below Alton. At the mouth of the Missouri lay a large steamer, a total wreck, snagged only three days before. On the bluff* just above Alton there was to be seen, until recently, an ancient painting of a large bird, the Piasoa of the Indians, worshipped by them to propitiate some destructive visitation; it has unfortunately been destroyed in TO THE UNITED STATES. n blasting the rock to form a road. The Prince ar- Umtod States. rived at Alton at 3..30 p.m., and immediately came s^fj^^ig. on board. He was much pleased with the three days spent on the Prairies, the party having bagged 300 head of quail and prairie hens. Captain Retal- lack did not accompany Him, as he had returned to Canada from Dwight to join the Governor-General, and proceed to England. The Prince started on a tour of inspection round 27 September. the town, ending with the great Fair. He was very well received, and accommodated with seats in the central stand, from which he could view with ease the trotting-horses, and be well seen by the 20,000 or 25,000 people assembled. Some of the horses were very good; — Silver-heels especially so, — and fetched long prices. The fastest trotter in America is said to be "Flora Temple;" she can trot one mile in 2 min. 22 sec. On the Prince's return co Barnum's some steam fire-engines were displayed in front of the hotel. We started at 9 a. m. from this, our farthest 28 September. point westwards, for Cincinnati, in a special train ; but were delayed for two hours by a smash of some luggage cars on the track thirty miles from St. Louis. The country is pretty and well wooded in parts ; but the track not being ballasted, is one of the most jolting we have yet travelled on. The violent motion added much to the fatigue of a long day ; for we did not reach Cincinnati till 1 .oO in the morning. At the hotel,— Burnet House,— we found Lord and Lady Chandos and Sir H. Holland. 78 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United States. Cincinnati, 29 September Under guidance of the Mayor, Judge Storor, Mr. Bissct, and others, the Prince started at 1 1 A. M. for a drive round the environs ; visiting at Mount Auburn Bishop Macilvain, and Mr. Bowler, one of the wealthiest inhabitants of Cincinnati. The latter gave a magnificent luncheon. The views from the grounds of both houses are very fine, extending over the plains of the Ohio and Kentucky. The day was brilliant, and we all much enjoyed our drive and the morning's entertainment. We did not see Mr. Longworth, the producer of the celebrated Catawba wine, to which in his absence we did ample justice. The native grape from which the wine is made came originally from the banks of a river of the same name in South Carolina. It has a strawberry flavour, and makes a high-priced inferior champagne. The process of pork-curing, for which " Porcopolis," as Cincinnati is called, is so celebrated, was not going on at this period of the year, the packing not commencing till November. In the evening the Prince went for two hours to a dance given in his honour at the opera house. Home by 12. 30 September. The sovereign people crowd the bar, corridors, passages, and staircases of the hotels when they con- tain anything of interest ; the curious and idle make them in fact their clubs. The Prince is sadly mobbed, and we make our way to our rooms through a crowd of self-invited visitors. The day was thoroughly wet. In the morning the Prince and suite attended St. John's Church, where the Bishop preached ; and f TO THE UNITED STATES. ?V in the evening some of us went to Christ Church. Many of our friends here are strenuously opposed to slavery ; and we heard much of the underground railwayy as the organization for assisting fugitive slaves in their endeavours to escape is commonly called. The fugitive slave law appears to be prac- tically all but a dead letter in most of the non- slavery states. We started at 7 a.m., through a very pretty country, for Pittsburgh, which we reached at 9 p.m., our longest day's journey— 367 miles. The Mayor and others— among whom were Dr. Denny and General Robinson, of Toronto, and CoUingwood memory — met us eighty miles from the city. Pittsburgh— the old " Fort Duquesne"— is very prettily situated at the confluence of the Monon- gahela and Alleghany,— forming together the Ohio river, — and has many interesting historic associa- tions, recalling General Braddock, Washington, and the Earl of Chatham, whose arms it still bears. We left our hotel, the Monongahela, at 11.30, and, after driving round the town, started at one o'clock in a special train for Harrisburgh, across the Alleghanies. The scene of Braddock's defeat is about three miles from the town of Pittsburgh, close to the railway. The engineering of this line is very remarkable ; though the gradients are not so steep as those of the line over the Semmering Alp in Styria— the steepest is one in forty-six feet ; and the highest point is 2600 feet. The track passes by a tunnel just below the summit,— the water-shed which United States. Cincinnati. Pittsburgh, 1 October. 2 October. 80 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United States. Ilarrisburgh. 3 October. M^ divides the streams falling into the great Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, from those which fall into the Atlantic. In constructing the tunnel a stream was actually diverted from the one to the other course. The scenery is very beautiful ; the more so as a few frosty nights have clothed the trees with their autumnal dress. The sugar and the common maple, the dogwood tree, the hickory, sumach, locust tree, beech, birch, and oak, all contributed their various colourings. We follow the Cone- maugh up to its source ; and on the other side of the ridge find the luniata^ one of the prettiest of streams : but unfortunately darkness set in shortly after we had descended the wonderful slope to Altoona ; and the moon, though bright, showed us but partial glimpses of the banks of the beautiful luniata. We reached Harrisburgh at 1 1 p. m. At nine, Lord Renfrew paid Governor Packer a visit at his official residence. We there saw the original patent of Charles II. to Penn. At the Capitol, in the Chamber of Representatives, the Governor made a little speech to the people, calling their attention to the curious fact of a great-grand- son of George III, a Prince of Wales, sitting in John Hancock's chair (the Prince had seated him- self there at the Governor's request), and recalled Franklin's observation about the " rising and the setting sun" remarking that one half only of the prophecy had come true. At 1 p.m. we got into the cars, and crossing the Susquehanna, and its very pretty scenery, into a rich agricultural country, TO THE UNITED STATES. 81 Washington. 4 October. reached Baltimore at three; and driving slowly United states. through it to the Deputy we reached Washington at four. We proceeded at once to the White House, and were received by President Buchanan and his niece, Miss Lane. The former, a gentle, agreeable old gentleman; the latter, the handsomest young lady we have seen in the States : they welcomed the Prince very cordially. The Duke, Lord St. Germans, and General Bruce were, with H. R. H., the guests of the President, and the rest of the party at the British Embassy. The dinner party of thirty-five, at 6.30, included all the Ministers except General Cass, who, however, met the Prince at the railway station on his arrival. Under the Mayor's guidance the Prince visited the Capitol at 10.30. The elevation of the ex- terior is very striking ; the interior is conveniently and beautifully fitted up with committee and other rooms, very similar to those in the Palace at West- minster. The upper-galleries command a fine view over the Potomac. The town reminds me of Mu- nich — with its few houses compared with the many and magnificent public buildings. The White House is an Imposing structure, and commands an exten- sive view from the back over the Potomac ; — the shaft of what will be a gigantic column in memory of Washington is slowly rising just beyond the grounds. At noon the President held a levee in honour of the Prince: the doors were open to all comers ; the sovereign people came and went as it liked, the Minister of state from his office, and the G i ■^HPiP 82 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United Statea. Wanhington. 5 October. workman from his shop ; there was no presentation, no order, plenty of hand-shaking, and much over- crowding. After luncheon we visited the Patent Office — an interesting place ; but owing to the pres- sing crowd it was difficult to glance even at a few of the numerous models. In the afternoon the Prince, Miss Lane, and some others of our party, played at the game of ten-pins in a private bowling- alley. The dinner party, at 6. 30, consisted of thirty- five guests, and there was an assembly in the evening ; a magnificent display of fire-works being provided for the entertainment of the guests. At 10 a.m. the Prince with the President started in the Harriet Lane, a government revenue cutter, for Mount Vernon, the residence and grave of Wash- ington. Our party included Miss Lane, Mrs. Ellis, the Ministers, Messrs. Ledyard, Henry, Brown, &c. General Cass, contrary to his usual habit, joined a pleasure party. The day was lovely, and the run of twenty-five miles down the Potomac was much enjoyed by all. As the President and the Prince left the vessel for the shore in the first boat, the lat- ter with the tiller ropes in his hands, no one could fail to be struck with the singular circumstance of a President of the United States being steered by a Prince of Wales, great-grandson of George III, to visit the grave of Washington ! And as they both stood together before his tomb, how much was sug- gested of interest in the past, of hope for the future ! The house is sadly dilapidated. It has been recently purchased by an association of ladies for a large mgm TO THE UNITED STATES. sum, and presented by them to the nation. Mrs. Riggs, the lady secretary, was with us, and did the honours of the place. It commands beautiful views of the river from the rocky and wooded eminence on which it stands. Some quadrilles enlivened the return voyage. In the evening the Prince and President dined with Lord Lyons, H. R. H. took leave of the President, (who was quite affected at parting with his guest, with whom he was evidently much pleased,) and embarked once more on board the Harriet Lancy en route for Rich- mond. Sir H. Holland remained at Washington, intending to embark for England on the following Wednesday. Some of the ministers accompanied us as far as Acquia Creek. The Prince has made a great impression on the natives, who talk of his democratic air in terms of high commendation. At Acquia Creek we took the cars for Richmond, which we reached at dusk. Hotel Ballard. Merry-looking ebony faces grin all around us, fully as anxious ?,s their masters to see and welcome the royal visitor. We are in the midst of a slave population, and upon the question of slavery will turn the ensuing presidential election, and probably the future welfare of the Union. But it is far too large a question to touch upon further than to re- mark that white labour is gradually superseding black labour in this state, as being less costly; and were it not that Virginia is a nursery of slaves for the South, it would soon cease altogether to be a United States. Washington. 6 October. Richmond. 84 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United stuten. slave-statc. Upon this subject, however, no differ- Richmond ®"^® °^ opinion OF freedom of speech is tolerated ; and strangers dissentient from the existing state of things must either be silent or quit the state. This necessity would seem indeed to be involved in the institution of slavery. 7 October, The Prince and suite attended St. John's Church in the morning. He afterwards visited Governor Letcher. In the afternoon some of us went to the African Baptist Church, where none but negroes usually attend. The preachers are white, though the blacks are allowed to prai/ aloud, and not un- frequently an excited scene ensues. During a walk in the afternoon with Consul Moore, he pointed out to me the scene of Pocahontas' romantic story, and the spot where she saved Captain Smith's life. Below us were the remains of the fort which the English built, and by which the strength of the Indian chief, her father, was mainly destroyed. These few crumbling records are all that remain of the rule of the once-powerful Indian ! 8 October. In the morning I went to the slave-mart ; but it was too early for the sales, which begin at ten. At 9 A. M. we started for Washington, en route for Baltimore, retracing our steps ; the only diflFerence in our programme being the substitution of a hired steamer for the Harriet Lane. The reception at Baltimore, which we reached at eight, was admirably managed. Three companies of militia escorted H. R. H. from the station to Gilmore's Hotel. ^October' ^" ^^® morning we visited the Peabody Institu- TO THE UNITED STATES. 85 Baltimore. tion, — a very handsome building of white marble, not United Staus. yet completed, and the Mechanics' Institute; but we had no time to see Winan's much-talked-of C/g-^?;* ship, constructed somewhat in that shape, with a view to its attaining great speed, and originally in- tended for submarine movements. Lord Chandos took a cruise in it, and described to us its principle and operation. Leaving Baltimore at 1 p. m. we reached Philadelphia at four, and drove to the Con- rhUadelphia. tinental Hotel. Some games at ten-pins, at the pri- vate bowling-alley of the German Club, gave us an evening's relaxation after our really hard work. We heard to-night that the Republican candidate for the governorship of Pennsylvania (Curtin) had been elected by a majority of 15,000 votes, thereby de- termining in all probability the result of the presi- dential election. We started at 11 a. m. to visit different objects of U October. interest. Gerard's Institution, a magnificent founda- tion for orphans, built of the finest white marble, at a cost of 1,000,000 dollars. It is considered to be the finest public building in the United States. The marble roof is beautifully constructed. We walked upon it, and admired the fine and extensive prospect which it commands. Our next visit was to the Peni- tentiary, which is conducted upon the principle of solitary confinement, and is admirably adapted for the purpose. Each cell has a small garden attached to it ; and every prisoner has some special employ- ment, at which he is obliged to work. In walking through the corridors, the Prince conversed for a mmmmmmum B6 VISIT OF II. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United stutvi. few moments with ono of the inmates, late an assist- rhiluiieinhlu. *"*' j^^^g®' ^^^ ^^ Condemned to twenty years' con- finement for forging state warrants. From the Peni- tentiary we proceeded to the Lunatic Asylum, and wore conducted through the wing appropriated to the women. After this we drove to the race-course, and witnessed from the grand stand two tolerable races. We were disappointed, however, in not see- ing some trotting matches, for which American horses are famous. But I believe that horse-racing —that is, horse-trotting — is against the law, which is evaded by altering and quickening the pace ; in the same way as it is illegal to play at nine-^ins, though the whole Bench of Judges may bowl at ten- pins. I returned to the hotel behind two fast trotters, who carried us along at the rate of eighteen miles an hour. After dinner the Prince attended the opera. The house, a very pretty one, was filled to overflowing with well-dressed company. The stage boxes on cither side on the first tier were appropri- ated to H.R.H. and his party. The opera, selected by him at the request of the managers, was " Martha,'' and the first act of the '* Traviata." He was re- ceived on entering with " God save the Queen," the whole audience standing. His reception was in every respect very good, and managed with great taste. Madlle. Patti, whom we had heard at the Montreal concert, was the star of the evening. Her voice, a soprano, wants richness, but it is flexible and sweet. She is very young, and in high repute here. TO THE UNITED 8T iTES. 87 11 October. New York. The city of " Brotherly love," is the most striking United State$. agg'*egation of buildings wo have yet seen in the States ; its marble houses, good shops, well lighted and broad streets, planted with trees, shows the opulence and taste of its inhabitants. We left it at ten, crossed the Ferry to the New York railway station, and took the cars to South Amboy, whore the Harriet hane again awaited us with a large party of New York " sympathisers," — General Scott, Judge Rosevelt, Ex- Governor Fish, Mess: Astor, &c., several of whom had come to Montreal on the ball deputation. The scene as we approached New York after passing the Nar- rows was pretty ; amongst the numerous craft was the celebrated yacht Maria which accompanied us for some distance. Upon landing at the Emi- gration Wharf, the Prince, who was in uniform, re- viewed 7,000 Militia Volunteers, under the command of General Sanford, after which the whole party, now given over to the guidance of Mayor Wood, proceeded in carriages to the City Hall, in front of which the troops again defiled. But for some time before reaching it our course lay through the Broadway. A more extraordinary, and in its way impressive scene, it would be difficult to describe, though to my mind, as a spectacle, the reception at Toronto was even more striking ; for here the eye could not take in at one view the hundreds of thou- sands who, occupying a street two-and-a-half miles long, were only seen in detail. From the curb- stone of the street to the coping-stone of the houses. « ■BPIHIP 88 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United Staten. one mass of human beings cheered and waved a New York. Welcome to "Victoria's Son;" there could be no doubt about the geniune earnestness of the recep- tion. We " welcome him for his mother's sake," inscribed on one banner, was the key-note of the whole. An escort of cavalry accompanied the car- riages, and the police, which appeared to be very efficient, kept the people to the footways ; though, indeed, in this respect they seemed to be tlieir own best police. Traffic was, of course, entirely sus- pended. Daylight unfortunately failed before the Prince had completed his promenade through the streets, and the ladies and gentlemen assembled at the windows in the best quarter of the town neither saw, nor were seen by him. Loud were the com- plaints against the Mayor and General Sanford for occupying H. R. H. so long with the review, to the disappointment of so many citizens, most of whom had taken up their position, and had patiently waited for his coming, since the early morning. This contre-temps has not, it is said, increased the popu- larity of the Mayor. We reached the Fifth Avenue Hotel at 7.15. 12 October. To-day H.R.H. was almost entirely in the hands of the municipal authorities. He visited in suc- cession the University, the Astor Library, Cooper's Institute, the Free Academy, the Central Park, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum ; this last is one of the best and most successful institutions of its kind, — the proiiciency shown by the pupik in conversing by their sign-language was described as being very re- TO THE UNITED STATES. 89 New York, markable. I did not accompany the party, having United Statet. much work to do. John Rose, Gore, and Ellis have joined us again ; the latter, on his return from a successful sporting tour in the south, having shot some buffaloes in Texas, and collected a curious assortment of strange animals and reptiles which he proposes to take to England with him. At 10.30 the Prince went to the ball. This entertainment, so long heralded and so m\)ch talked of, was to eclipse everything of the kind ever given in Ame- rica, and was especially intended to throw into the shade the ball of Montreal, which hitherto had re- mained unchallenged. But, like many other fond anticipations, this was not destined to be realized. The place of entertainment was the Academy of Music, a pretty building, rather smaller than that at Philadelphia. On entering it the Prince found the whole of the area somewhat densely packed, the boxes and lower galleries also full. The com- pany had already begun to pass before him, bowing as they passed, when some cracks, followed by a few screams, were heard proceeding from the centre of the mass, which suddenly separated in all direc- tions, leaving a few ladies and gentlemen to extri- cate themselves from the traps by which, like so many Harlequins and Columbines, they had de- scended to the depths below. The floor had given way, and, though no great injury was done to aught save crinoline, the accident showed culpable neglect of proper precautions, and delayed the opening of the ball for two hours. All, however, behaved very 90 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES 'I I ;i United States, well Oil the occasion ; and, as nobodj; was seriously New York, ^^rt, every one was pleased to be amused at the casualty. The Prince and his party proceeded to the fupper room, while the cf rpenters took posses- sion of the floor of the theatre and commenced its repair, and, as the story goes, were so intent on the operation that they inadvertently nailed down one of their fellows ; a plank having to be taken up before he could be released. No further accident happened, but the floor was indifferent throughout, and the crowd was too dense and too unyielding to admit of dancing with comfort, or for displaying to advantage the really magnificent dresses of many of the ladies. The Prince, however, remained till a late hour. On the whole the ball was heralded with too loud a flourish, and resulted in a meagre success. 13 October. The morning was devoted to Brady and photo- graphy. The Prince and his party were photo- graphed in groups and singly — an operation which took up more time than had been anticipated. In the afternoon he paid a flying visit to Barnum's Museum, was conducted over Ball and Black's great shop or " store " in Broadway, and afterwards called upon General Scott. Later in the day I also went to Barnum's Museum, and was politely shown its curiosities by the manager. The Albinoes, the Siamese Twins, and the " Whnt-is-it" were con- sidered the chief attractions; but I was more inte- rested with a number of aquaria containing numerous choice specimens of rare and curious fresh and salt TO THE UNITED STATES. 91 water fish. The Wliat-is-it appears like a horrible UnUed states. link between humanity and the brute : but it is pro- jj^^ york. nounced by competent authority to be an idiotic and deformed negro. In the evening a torchlight pro- cession of some 6,000 of the city firemen defiled before the Prince's windows. They were all dressed in their garb of red, carried torches in their hands, and each brigade, accompanied by its band, engine and hose mounted on a light carriage, ornamented with many a quaint device, testified its welcome as it passed the Prince with a feu-de-joie of Roman candles and blue and red lights, which illuminated the procession and the dense crowd around with the light of day. The display lasted for 1 h. 30 m., and must be pronounced to be a decided success. We went to Trinity Church at 10.30. Four u October. bishops and twenty-four clergy were present in their robes. The minister, towards the close of his ser- mon, invoked the blessing of God upon the Queen of England, the Prince of Wales, and the Royal Family : an incident curious when read in connec- tion with what had taken place in this very church (not the same structure, but the same mother church) during the revolutionary war. Shortly after New York was occupied by Washington's army, Mr. Inglis the acting minister, and afterwards Bishop of Nova Scotia, received order? to forbear praying for the King and Queen ; he, in common with the ma- jority of Church of England ministers, continuing to usf; these prayers, and in common with them suf- fering some persecution in consequence. Upon one 92 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United States. occEsion the church was occupied by a body of ~^ , armed soldiers, who were inarched in with a view of overawing him, though without effect. After ser- vice we had luncheon at Consul Archibald's. The afternoon was thoroughly wet. 15 October. We Started at ten in the Harriet Lane up the Hudson river for Westpoint. Shortly after leaving New York the scenery becomes very pretty. The steep shores are now clothed in foliage of every shade and colour, and the much talked of Palisades — a series of gigantic perpendicular groovings in the trap rock — present in profile a fine bold outline, though their height is insignificant. The quiet beauty of the river below Westpoint is just such as Wash- ington Irving delighted in. We passed his house at Sunnyside ; over the hill lay " Sleepy Hollow," and many a spot which has received additional interest from his magic pen. For some miles below, and on the approach to the Point, the scenery increases in beauty. The trees have now upon them their full autumnal suit of many colours, and the richness of the foliage is indescribable. We reached West- point, the Sandhurst of the United States, at 3.30, and on landing rode up to the residence of Colonel Delafield, the Commandant of the station and Su- perintendent of the Military Academy. Here the Prince, who was not in uniform, was received by General Scott, and immediately proceeded to re- view on foot the Cadets who were paraded and defiled before him, upon their beautiful ground — a high plateau, with the river deep below and the hills TO THE UNITED STATES. 93 rising abruptly all around ; while to the north the umted states. Hudson stretched into the far distance, bounded by we^int. the blue Catskills. After inspecting the barracks, we all remounted our steeds and rode up to Foi't Pi'ttenham, an interesting ruin of the revolutionary war. The setting sun was burnishing the gorge- ously-tinted mountain-sides, while, deep below, the river had already lost its rays, and was calmly re- posing in a cold and quiet blue. The scene was one more worthy to be compared with a north Italian landscape than any we have yet seen. After dinner we played ten-pins in an alley in the grounds of the hotel. We left the hotel at 9.30 a.m. and drove to the le October. academy to see the cadets in their class-rooms, riding-school, &c. &c. After taking leave of Ge- neral Scott, Colonel Delafield, Bishop Macilvain, and others, we embarked on board the Daniel Drew, for Albany, the capital of New York state, leaving Westpoint with very pleasant recollections of the evening spent in its beautiful highlands. The scenery of this part of the river is une, especially so where it approaches the Catskills. The Prince was hailed with great enthusiasm by a vast crowd on the shore as we passed the city of Hudson; their sight of him must have been very transient, as it is hard to check the rapid course of our steamer, which races through the water, against the tide, at a speed of twenty -three miles an hour ! We arrive at Albany at five, and are escorted to the Capitol, where the Prince is received by Governor Mor- mm m 94 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES Albany. United States, gan, and Conducted through the Capitol and the City Hall. In the library of the former we saw the original documents found upon the unfortunate Major Andr^ ; also the original charter granted to Albany by Charles II. A magnificent and pro- tracted entertainment at the Governor's closed the day's proceedings. 17 October. Before starting at 8.30 a Waterloo soldier was presented to the Prince. The old man begged him to open some letters of recommendation to Canada, which had been in his possession for more than twenty years, and which, from a nice sense of ho- nour, he had refrained from reading, as he had been unable to give them into the hands of the proper authorities. We travelled by special train to Boston. The Prince was received most enthusiastically wher- ever it stopped for wood and water ; but more espe- cially so at Springfield and Worcester. Shortly after leaving the latter place we were joined by Colonels Lawrence and Sargent and others, sent on a deputa- tion to receive the Prince. On alighting from the cars, at 3 P.M., some three miles from the city, He was met by the Mayor and other civic notables, whose arrangements made for his reception were most complete — ten barouches and four conveyed our party, and a detachment of lancers escorted the procession. Dr. Acland and I, as at Newfound- land in the commencement, so at Boston at the con- clusion of the tour, were obliged precipitately to quit our carriage. Our four steeds ran away, but they were fortunately stopped by a lamp-post, and the ;■ *: ; TO THE UNITED STATES. 95 coachman was the only one of the party who was hurt. The most enthusiastic welcome greeted the Prince as he drove through the crowded streets to his hotel, the Revere House, where Cartier, Rose, Pennefather, and other Canadian friends, greeted us. Sir Edmund and Lady Head sailed from Boston for England this day. Ralph Farnham, an old soldier, 104 years of age, who had fought at Bunker Hill, and was present when General Burgoyne capitulated at Saratoga, was presented to the Prince, and expressed to him his fears that his countrymen were turning royalists again, alluding to the very warm reception the Prince had met with. At noon we drove to the State House, where the whole party mounted on horseback and proceeded to "the Common," a park picturesquely laid out, with good timber and a fine sward. Here H. R. H. who, with General Bruce, Teesdale, Grey, and Eliot, was in uniform, reviewed the militia, 2,500 strong, who defiled before him after having been inspected. Governor Banks was present at the review, which, under a brilliant sun, presented a very beautiful spectacle. In returning to the State House, the authorities made a very long detour, and carried the Prince through the principal streets. After luncheon we returned to the hotel, and at five H.R.H. proceeded to a concert at the Music Hall, given in his honour by the town, at which 1,500 school-children were the performers, assisted by an able amateur band and some adult voices. The United States. Bostou. 18 October. 96 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES n M United States, music and singing were excellent. Some verses Boston ^®^® expressly composed for the occasion by Dr. "Wendell Holmes, and were sung to the air of ** God save the Queen." They are so good that I have copied them : — " God bless our Fathers' Land, Keep her in heart and hand, One with our own ! From all her foes defend, Be her brave people's friend. Protect her throne I " Father, in loving care, Guard thou her kingdom's heir, ' Guide all his ways ; Thine arm his shelter be. From harm by land and sea. Bid storm and danger flee. Prolong his days ! " Lord, let war's tempest cease. Fold the whole world in peace Under Thy wings ! Make all the nations one, All hearts beneath the sun. Till Thou shalt reign alone, Great King of kings ! " The ball was in every respect better than the last ; and, had it been a little less crowded, would have been a great success. It was held in the Opera House, which presented much the same appearance as that at New York. A central projecting box had been prepared for the Prince, draped with the flags of America and England, in which he stood for some minutes on first entering the house ; the TO THE UNITED STATES. 97 view from it in looking down upon the upturned United states. faces of some 2,000 or 3,000 people was very Boston. striking. Shortly after his appearance in the area of the house dancing hegan. The pressure threat- ened at first to be as great as on a former occasion ; but it was more yielding, and after a time almost ceased to be felt. We were evidently in a higher social atmosphere ; the supper, too, was better managed, and was held in an adjoining concert room. The Bostonians were anxious that their en- tertainment should be in better taste than that of the New Yorkers, and they certainly succeeded ; their rivals themselves being judges. Again in the hands of the photographers. At 19 October. mid-day we started for Cambridge in carriages and four ; the day was fine, and the ride pleasant. The Prince and his party were accompanied to Harvard College, or there met, by the following gentle- men : — The Governor, The Mayor, Mr. Everett, The British Consul, Dr. Fehon, President of the College, Professor Agassiz, Longfellow, Mr.'Winthrop, Dr. Wendell Holmes, Ex-President Quiney, Colonel Lawrence, Colonel Sargent, Mr. Bond, the Astronomer, Professor Ticknor, &c. &c. After inspecting the buildings of the College, the Library, Law School, &c., and the rooms of one of the students, we proceeded to the Observatory, and looked through the great telescope — one of the best H wmr ^i^m \\ 98 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES \\ t< United States, in the world, made by Frauonhofer, of Munich— at Boston. ^^^ ^'^^ " Lyrae. From the Observatory we returned to Cambridge to luncheon, and in our own persons experienced the effects of the Maine liquor law ; no wine or beer being allowed on Dr. Felton's table. We were afterwards conducted by Professor Agassiz through his very attractive Museum of Natural His- tory. On returning through Cambridge, in our way to the cemetery we passed a small church of wood ; interesting as having been brought out from England by some of the early Pilgrim Fathers, though possibly its present materials may have small title to antiquity. The cemetery is tastefully laid out, very much as modern cemeteries are. In our way back to Boston we visited the Bunker Hill monument — a grand and imposing pillar, very simple and unpretending in its design. It was on this occasion ornamented with the English and American standards, which floated from its summit. A visit to the City Library ended the day's work. In the evening I accom- panied General Bruce, Lord Hinchingbrook, and Eliot, to dinner at Colonel Lawrence's house, and met there Mr. Everett's daughter, Mrs. Wise, and several of our partners of the previous night — our hosts are charming people, and their house is fitted up with great taste. We leave Boston after a short acquaintance of two days, with many pleasant recollections, and, I hope, some incipient friendships. The feeling to- wards England as towards a home^ the home of their forefathers, the home of some of their warmest GENERAL VIEW OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC WITH PART OF TH I Fi'um I'lmtu^rapli ni' Tf'rri'st.niiJ iUoIjc hv Kcitli . ^'iliiili- M'lMi ; WITH PART OF THE COASTS OF EUROPE & NORTH AMERICA, aual lilolif, liv KfitJi Jolmstdii, lifogi-apliiT to tin' {.(uccii) )■ \ u y^/^ TO THE UNITED STATES. 99 feelings, is more apparent here than elsewhere in the States ; their welcome is more cordial, their in- vitation to revisit them more earnest. The passage, however, across the Atlantic is quicker made east- wards than westwards ; and I hope we may again see Boston in the persons of some of our late hosts, as visitors to old England. Leaving at 10 a. m. in a special train, we travelled in one of the best cars we have yet seen. It was built expressly for the Prince, and was most luxuri- ously fitted up. The Mayor, Colonel Lawrence, Mr. C. Sumner, Colonel Sargent, &c. accompanied us. We arrived at Portland at 2, and under the guidance of the Mayor made the circuit of the town. For more than this there was no time, as we were to embark at 3. But brief though it was, this earnest welcome was a fitting close to the Prince's visit to the States. The Hero was in sight, sug- gestive of home and England. There lay, besides, in the fine harbour the Ariadne^ Nile, Flj/i/ig Fish, and Sti/x. By a strange coincidence, the squadron arrived at Portland on the very day, almost at the very hour, on and at which, just eighty-five years ago, a British fleet of six sail, under Captain Mowatt, entered the harbour with orders to "burn, sink, and destroy," and did destroy the town which has just given a hearty welcome to the officers of the squadron, and entertained them at a grand ball, and is now taking enthusiastic leave of the Prince. At the landing-place we, too, took leave of our Yankee and Canadian friends, and of Lord United States. Portland. 20 October. > '?' y- /• 100 VISIT OF H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES United statet. Lyons (under whose diplomacy so much has been Portland, done, and with such success, during the last four weeks), and of his attachh^ Warre and Brodie. At 3.45 we were under weigh for England. The third and concluding Act of our drama has closed ; already in anticipation we are in England. But the Hero does not travel so fast as our hopes do, and there is time for a few reflections on the past. The American visit, it is believed, may be pro- nounced to be a great success. It has appealed to high sentimerts and evoked deep feelings. The admiration and even affection in which the Queen is held, universally, and by all classes, can hardly be exceeded among her own loving subjects. This is chiefly due to her own personal character, the true ideal of " the mother" to the American mind. In some measure, also, it may be attributed to that innate craving for the exercise of veneration and loyalty, which finding but little to satisfy it at home, looks abroad for the worthiest object. The effect of this feeling towards the Queen has been to secure to her Son the heartiest reception ever accorded by the American people — a reception which his own presence and bearing have confirmed and strength- ened. Superadded to these motives there exists a strong feeling of kinship. A common ancestry, language, I TO THE UNITED STATES. 101 and literature, and a common freedom, must be productive of a strong feeling of sympathy towards England, if allowed its natural bent,— a sympathy which is glad to express itself in overt acts. It wants but a fitting opportunity, and the result is seen in the magnificent reception given to the Prince by the " Empire City." Esto perpetua. A few extracts from the log of the Hero will close my record. United States ' )■ s s 20 Oct. 21 >» 22 »> 23 » 24 » 25 >» 26 >» 27 » 28 » 29 >» 30 » 31 it 1 ■ ^nv. 0) a I 2 3 4 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 5 p.m. S. 74 E. S. 70 E. S. 85 E. W. 79 E. S. 87 E. W. 78 E. \V. 62 E N. 64 E, N. ;.: P. N. 76 E. N. 76 E. N. 85 E. N. 88 E. N. 35 E. N. 34 E. S. 87 E. N. 62 E. N. 18 E. S. 47 W. S. 17 W. S. BE. S. 39 E. S. 69 E. S. 78 E. X. 42 E. N. 93 E. left Portland for England. 104 157 124 118 189 200 181 179 ?11 79 170 154 148 79 91 139 80 70 62 60 91 95 97 82 143 170 Easterly S.E. South S.E. r S.W. and \ \ W.N.W. J r N.W. •) W.N.W. } ^ E.N.E. ^ fE, N.E, S.\ I and S.E. J r S.E,E. I \ and North J . North j N.W. L N.N.W. J N.N.W. North N.N.W. :! Nor. E. [ S.E. and E/ E.N.E. E.N.E S.E. S.E E.S.E. S.E. South S.W. S.S.E. E.S.E South S.S.E. and S.E S.E. and E. / S.E. and I L Easterly J Easterly Easterly E.N.E. N.E N.E. N.N.E, / North IN.W. S.W S.W. N.W. r E.N.E. \ I S.E. J S.E. r E.S.E. \ I S.E. J r E.S.E. ) I South J / S.S.E. "1 I and S.E. J r E.N.E. "I I N.E. J / N.E. -1 I N.N.E. / 43.0 42.21 42.10 42.30 42.24 43.3 44.29 45.56 46.39 47.5 47.52 48.5 47.27 48.46 50.2 49.56 50.34 52.16 51.26 50.29 48.55 47.42 47.27 47.10 48.0 49.10 1 From Plymouth, by obser- vations. 2766 68.0 2070 64.34 2506 61.49 ^398 58.52 2268 54.30 2094 50.0 1892 48.16 1701 43.0 1535 38.19 1335 33.53 1154 29.26 964 25.37 813 21.47 20.42 19.25 15.49 14.7 13.26 14.36 15.3 14.29 13.2 11.47 9.50 7.37 672 612 550 410 347 341 368 384 369 338 300 249 151 Arrived in Plymouth Sound, and at 10.40 struck H. K. H. the Prince of Wales' Standard. 3378 EXTRACTS FROM THE LOG OF THE HERO. 103 Oct. 20. Strong N.E. breezes — preparing for sea. 3.15 P.M. a salute on shore announced the ar- rival of H. R.H. and at 3.40 p.m. H.R. H. and suite embarked under salutes from the forts and ships ; at 4.20 weighed and proceeded out of harbour, having Nile, Ariadne, Styx and Flying Fish in company. Wind blowing fresh from E.S.E. 5.40 stopped to discharge pilot, and then proceeded with Ariadne and Flying Fish ; — Nile and Styx parting company, the former saluting. 9.45 p.m. lost sight of Portland Light. 21*^. E.S.E. breeze increasing to a moderate gale, and obliging us to burn coals to get clear of the land; in the evening it moderated and drew to Southward with fog, which continued till noon of 22nd, it then backed to East and freshened, with dirty weather continuing till night of 23rfl?, when the glass fell and breeze shifted to south, with glass rapidly falling, when at 4 a.m. of 2Uh wind shifted in a heavy squall to west and W.N.W. blowing hard; it did not, however, hold long, for on the 25M it dropped in the forenoon, and in the after- noon shifted to the Eastward, with misty wea- ther, obliging us to take to steam, and next day, 2Qth, still continuing E.S.E. we got Ariadne to tow; the swell, however, increasing; at 5 A.M. of 104 EXTRACTS FROM THE I 27M, the hawser carried away; and although we tried it next day it again parted; so we had nothing to do hut to make sail, as the hreeze was fast freshening from S.E. In the evening it subsided and became foggy, so we once more fell back on the steam ; but in the morning of 28M, breeze freshening from N.N.W. and N.W. made sail; it, however, only lasted till the afternoon of the 30th, when it turned to the Eastward, and again we tried steam. Breeze moderate, between South and East. 3] St. Got Ariadne ahead, and she towed us — Nov. 1 — till next morning, when at 4 a.m. the cable parted, gale getting up from E.N.E. ; we therefore made sail, but did not do much against a head sea that was getting up. 6 p. m. tried the steam again, but the expenditure of coal was too much for the small distance we were making towards our port ; 2nd — so next day, in the afternoon, gave it up and fell back on the sails. Strong E.S.E. breezes and squally on the 3rd. Breeze veering to S.E., still sailing, but not making much progress. 4th. Still blowing hard between E.S.E. and S.S.E. ; in the afternoon it moderated a little and we got steam up, but stopped next morning at 8 A.M. 5th. South breeze, and got A riadne to tow again ; LOG OF THE HERO. 105 but unfortunately the hawser carried away, and we were obliged to give it up, there being too much swell. In the afternoon breeze increased much from S.S.E.; passed a Norwegian bri- gantine steering the same way. On the morn- ing of the 6//t, wind increasing to a gale from S.S.E. with heavy sea, and although only 347 min. off the Lizard, if this breeze holds it will be some time ere we arrive ; towards night wind increasing. 1th. Wind and weather much the same. To-day we have made six miles, but being too far to the north, at noon we wore and stood to the south. We are only 11 5 miles off Valencia, and might easily fetch the Shannon — a great temptation certainly, but not to be thought of at present, living as we do in the hope of a change in the wind ere long. 8^A, 9M,* and \Oth. Easterly gale still continuing, against which we can make no headway; by yesterday's reckoning we had for three days lost ground, but to-day have picked up a little. 1 1 th. Wind somewhat abating, and a falling glass cheers us with the idea of our soon running before a favourable gale. To-day we are 338 miles off; in the evening breeze hauling to the north enabled us to draw towards our port. ♦ On the 9th we celebrated the Prince's birthday. The ships dressed and saluted at midday ; the Ariadne's guns almost dipping as she rolled in the trough of the high seas. In the evenbg we had a ball in honour of H. B. H. Il- 106 EXTRACTS FROM THE I i ) I2th. Still blowing hard and a most disagreeable day ; the breeze, which had moderated a little, having again increased to a strong gale. 13/A. Hopes again bright, and at midnight the long wished for fair wind at last, to which we spread our swelling canvas. 14//i. Wind drawing by north to S.W. and again increasing to a gale ; but we think nothing of it, as every minute brings us nearer home. We have had no observations for three days. At 1 p. M. when we, by our reckoning, ought to be in soundings, rounded to, to get a cast of the lead, bringing up sand and broken shells from eighty fathoms, which, agreeing with our cal- culations, enabled us to run with more certainty for the Lizard, which Lights we made at 3.15 A.M. of the ISth, and at daylight were passing inside the Eddy- stone Lighthouse, arriving in Plymouth Sound at 9.1 A.M. to the joy of all hands, whose patience for such a lengthened passage must have been pretty well tried — as we passed the Breakwater the St. George and other ships manned yards, and as well as the forts saluted H.R. H.*s standard, which had been anxiouslv watched for during the last week. At 10.40 H. R.H. and suite left us in the Avon steamer, disem- barking at the Victualling Office, when the standard was hoisted in it was saluted and cheered ; three heartier cheers were never given than by the Hero's, who one and all felt the LOG OF THE HERO. 107 parting with those who had travelled on the deep with them for so many miles, and who during that time, by their universal kindness, have won the hearts of all aboard.* These extracts were also furnished to me by Mr. Sulivan. 108 EXTRACTS FROM THE LOG OF THE HERO. i'l Actual Distance through the Water. Oct. 21 . . . 106 miles. >» »> 22 23 »» ^•x >> 26 «> 26 »» 27 >» 28 » 29 »> 30 »f 31 Nov. 1 >> 2 »» 3 »> 4 » 5 >> 6 »» 7 >> 8 »» 9 it 10 >> 11 >> 12 )> 13 »» 14 II 15 164 133 >» II 118 II 189 II 200 II 183 II 189 II 212 11 179 II 176 II 165 II 157 II 111 it 112 II 139 II 86 II 70 II 67 II 64 II 92 i> 106 II 100 II 94 II 149 II 191 II 3552 Actual distance from Portland to Plymouth, 2766 7R6 MILES TRAVELLED DURING THE TOUR. 109 Number* of Miles travelled during the Tour. Leave July 10, Plymouth „ 26, St. John's „ 27, Sydney . Aug. 2, Halifax . . „ 2, Hantsport . 4, St. John . . 8, Fredericton . 8, St. John . . 0, Hantsport . 10, Pictou . . 12, Charlotte Town 15, Gasp<5 . . Saguenoy 23, Quebec » » » » Arrive at July 23, St John's . „ 27, Sydney . „ 30, Halifax . Aug. 2, Hantsport » » 3,St.John,N.B. 4, Fredericton . 8, St. John . . 9, Hantsport 9, Pictou . . . 10, Charlotte Town 14, Gaspe . . . 18, Quebec . . Land Sea . . 1906 .. 396 .. 241 120 40 90 00 90 24, Montreol . 28, Montreal to Dickinson's landing and back 29, Montreal to He Dorval 30, Montreal to Sherbrooke and back . . . 31, Montreal .... Aug. 31, Ottawa . Sept. 3, Ottawa .... Sept. 3, Brockville „ 4, Brockville, vid Bay of Quinte, including route from Cobourg to Peter- boro. Port Hope, and Whitby 10, Toronto to Collingwood and 150 180 ,170 , 28 ,180 .140 .115 » >» Sept. 7, Toronto 420 back . . .180 12, Toronto .... Sept. 12, London . . 120 13, London to Sarnia and back 120 14, London . . . • „ 14, Niagara Falls 130 18, Niagara Falls . . „ 18, Hamilton . 50 „ 20, Hamilton » 20, Detroit . . 180 120 49 245 422 This is an approximation, but is believed to be very nearly correct. w p 1 10 MILES TRAVELLED DURING THE TOUR. Leava Sept. 21, Detroit „ 24, Chicago „ 28, St. Louis Oct. 1, Cincinnati „ 2, Pittsburgh „ 3, Harrisburgh . i 5, Washington to Mt. 6, Washington . . 8, Gichmond . . . 0, Bnhinioro . . . 11, Philadelphia . . 15, New York . . 17, Albany .... 20, Boston .... » » ft Arrirfl at Land „ 21,Chicogo .282 „ 24, St. Louis . 281 „ 28, Cincinnati . 340 Oct. 1, Pittsburgh . 367 „ 2, Harrisburgh 247 „ 3, Washington 100 crnon and back . . 36 „ 6, Richmond . 127 „ 8, Baltimore . 167 „ 9, Philatlelphia 80 „ 11, New York . 00 „ 16, Albany . .144 „ 17, Boston . . 200 „ 20, Portland . 107 8«a ! ) Total land 6101 Portland to Plymouth 2766 Total sea 0265 Reduced into statute miles • . 7208 7208 Total 12,309 miles. €• 766 208 C.U8W.CK rBE88:-rK,NTE., BT WIHTTINOUAM AND WILKINS. TOOK8 COURT, ClIANCEUT LANE. 'JJ-