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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmte en common; ant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernlAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols «► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols y signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmfo A des taux de reduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est filmA A partir de ranglft supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent le mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■■ ►>» INQUIRIES OF AN EMIGRANT. The following is an Extract from a Letter inrierted in the Northampton Herald of the 18th of February, 1832. The writer not only bears testimony to the truth oi Mr. Picker- ing's book, but gives the latest statement of the Prices of Produce and Labour, both matters of the greatest import- ance to the Emigrant. To Thomas E , Aynho, Northamptonshire. Guelph, Oct. SO, 1831. Dear Father, I hope this will find you in good health. I vrrote to you about the 24th of June, and I have not received an answer; it was merely to state that we were safe arrived and all well. It seemed, at first, as thouijh the Lord had forsook us, for there was not a day but tidings came of some disaster. I bought 1^ acre of wheat ami 3} acre of barley ; the wheat was laid at from 26 to 30 bushels, and every dav, from the time I bought it, came news tl at the hogs and the cattle was in it, so that it reduced my wheat (o bushel : such a loss almost ruined me. I was ill, and obliged to give a pound to have it thrashed ; but I am fast recovering, and my wife keeps up her spirits wonderfully. I am induced to go to Woolwich, to live near a large farmer, that went there nine years ago, without a dollar in the world. He will fetch me up free of ex- pense ; I shall have for my use whatever his farm produces, and work ii out, or pay when 1 can afford it. He offers me a yoke of oxen, and I have looked out 200 acres of land, and as good land aa any I have seen, at ISs. per acre. I have been to the agent, and I may take 10 or 20 years to pay it in, if I choose. There is plenty of land to be had in the same way. T had his in the same way, and he has 130 acres of cleared land and 70 of bush, all paid for; he has 50 head of cattle, 2 span of horses, 40 sheep, 60 hogs; and raised last year 1000 bushels of wheat, and other grain in proportion. There is a great many settlers that began, some two, some three years ago, and all are doing well. All the tradesmen in this country are farmers, and do not care to waH on you at all ; if they do ten minutes' work, a quarter of a dollar; they say farming is best ; the profits are coming if you are at a tavern. I believe there is a good chance here for any branch. Beef, pork, and mutton, is 3d. per lb., but not fat ; whiskey 2s. per gallon ; beer Id. per quart. The cli- mate is much the same as England ; it has been a very wet summer. Joseph is with me yet ; he has not been able to work a great deal, but he earned 20 dollars in 25 days, and his keep. We have a fine cow, a hog, 6 score, and 2 hens. I have bought several things for our use, and have a few dollars left to go into the woods with. I am sorry I cannot write to all that wish me, but that booh I had from Northampton i$ a better account than lean give ; it i» a true account,—" PKJKERING'S INQUIRIES OF AN EMIGRANT." If I had ten pounds now 1 should not be afraid but I could soon be independent ; but being obliged to work out and hire oxen, will keep me back a year or two, but what others have done, why may not J a^icomplish. I believe any person coming here that had 4oJ. or 501, might live well and save money, and a person with 200/. might live on a farm and save 50/. a year without working at all — reckoning his improvements. If I have the luck to clear 40 acres in 5 years, my improvements will be worth 500 dollars, that is 125/. Halifax currency, according as improvements sell. English or British sterling is 2d. in the shilling more than the currency of this country, either in gold or silver, that is all the difference in the coin. W. E. O'll INQUIRIES or ■:>-•;/. AN EMIGRANT: BEING THE NARRATIVE OF AN ENGLISH FARMER Frum the Ybar 1824 TO 1830; >n DURINO WHICH PRRIOD HE TRAVERSED THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, ,,j(i'^' WITH A VIEW TO SETTLE AS AN EMIGRANT: CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS ON TIIR MANNERS, SOIL, CLIMATE, AND HUSBANDRY OF THE AMERICANS; ESTIMATES OF OUTFIT, '' CHARGES OF VOYAGE, AND TRAVELLING EXPENSES. BY JOSEPH PICKERING, LATE OP FENNY STRATFORD, RUCKS, AND NOW OP CANADA. THIRD EDITION; INCLUDING THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJESTY'S COMMISSIONERS FOR EMIGRATION. LONDON: PUBUSHED BY EFFINGHAM WILSON, 88, ROYAL BXCHAtiaE. 1832. . i*a»ms». I LONDON; MANNING AND SMITU80N, PRINTERS, LONDON H0U8B YARD, ST. PAUL'S. CONTENTS. PACB Introduction : — On the Causes of Emigration - - I CHAPTER I. The Author's motives for Emigrating — Preparation for the Voyage — Embarkation, and Passage out - - 7 CHAPTER II. Arrival at Baltimore — Description of the Town, its Inhabitants, and Customs — Excursions in the Neigh- bourhood, and continued residence — with a variety of Miscellaneous Remarks - - - - - 18 CHAPTER III. Journey from Baltimore to BufTaloe and Canada, in the Steam-boat, to the Head of the Bay — By land to Philadelphia — Produce and Cultivation of the Coun- try — Further proceedings - - - - - 44 CHAPTER IV. Arrival in Upper Canada — Comparison of the State on each side of Lake Erie — Introduction to Colonel Talbot — Inspection of Lots of Land — Engagement with him — His Establishment — Modes of Cultivation — Natural Produce, and various places noticed - 58 CHAPTER V. Colonel Talbot's Farm, Garden, and Orchards described — Journey to Fort Erie — The Country, its Produce and Resources -- -----70 CHAPTER VI. Departure from Colonel Talbot's — Road-making, and a Settler's Establishment described - Capabilities of the Country, and Manners of the Residents, noticed — Arrival at Ancaster, and Journey to York - - 103 A 2 ! I I CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAOI Opening of the Colonial Session — Various Journeys from York — A natural Oil Spring — Canadian Auction — A Dutch Settlement — Amherstburgh, Sandwich, and other Places — A Voyage on Lake Erie, and Detroit River, described ..... CHAPTER VIII. General Habits, Customs, and Modes of Cultivation practised by the original Settlers, described — The Value of Canada to Great Britain — Thoughts on the original f^xtent of the Lakes — State of the Forests — Produce of the Land, and the Outgoings and Profits of a Farm shown . - - - . 118 r 150 H^^mumM. CHAPTER IX. Departure from Upper Canada to Quebec, and Return to England 168 APPENDIX. 1. General Observations — The Western Lakes - 2. Taxes of Upper Canada - - . .^p^^ . 3. Religious Institutions - - - li;> ^ - 4. Laws and Liberties - - - - »•. , - 5. Roads and Bridges ---.-- 6. Government Notice for Grants of Land 7. Passage by New York to Canada . . _ 8. Passage by way of Quebec to Upper Canada 9. Estimate of Expenses, and Quantity of Provisions for Voyage .------ 10. His Majesty's Commissioners' Information respect- ing Emigrants .-.--. 184 187 188 188 188 189 192 192 192 194 iO**? bU PREFACE. ''fTIS The privations and distresses of the manufacturing districts, and the embarrassments of the farming in- terests, combined with the attention turned tovards Emigration as a remedy for these evils, have induced the Author of this work, to endeavour to supply the apparent want of practical and authentic information respecting the superior advantages of Upper Canada, by detailing his personal narrative, from leaving England to settling in that province. It will be found to com- prise his passage out to the United States, with six months' travels and residence therein ; upwards of four years' sojourn in Upper Canada; his travels through Lower Canada, and return to England, via Ireland. He has endeavoured to detail a clear statement of facts, with remarks on the soil and climate of America, — the customs and manners — and a particular description of the methods of clearing the soil and cultivating the land, with the prices of stock, grain, &c. He has also given a comparative statement of the views held out by the United States and Upper Canada, as the best for British Emigrants ; in which he flatters himself that the superior advantages of the latter to farmers, farm- labourers, and most useful tradesmen, will be fully proved; and as an Appendix, he has stated many a2 f #t PREFACE. particulars useful to whoever may proceed to either of those places. He would not recommend those that are far ad- vanced in years, except with younger branches of their families, or are comfortably situated, with small fami- lies, in commerce, trades, or situations, and not losing money (unless persons of enterprise, who could set dilRculties at defiance), to emigrate to any country; as all emigrants that were comfortably established, and p: f ' -"dlarly those from England, must make some sa- crifice to obtain any future success. The disadvantages of all new countries (particularly away from towns), are the want of conveniences, com- forts, and society — these have to be made. The ad- vantages are, the absence of burdensome imposts and taxes — the great scope for skill and industry in improvements of all kinds — a large field unoccupied lying open for all — a choice of good land and situa- tion — a feeling of independence, and an absence of care for the future welfare of their families. He will endeavour to state opinions and impressions, unbiassed by prejudice or partiality, so that Emigratwriy or No Emigration, may be deliberately weighed before decided on. The great mistake of Englishmen in particular is, that they hang about the sea-ports, in the hopes some- thing lucrative may offer, until they spend their little property, or if they settle as farmers, they are so fond of their own opinions as to attempt the introduction of PREFACE. n Knglish husbandry, and entail a heavy expense upon themselves for their folly. The young and enthusiastic often form romantic and extravagant notions of distant countries ; this ought to be particularly guarded against, or it will asburedly end in disappointment and vexation. There is no perfect Paradise to be seen on earth — there is no country, how- ever iine and prosperous, without a drawback; nor will there be discovered any country, however for- bidding, entirely destitute of attraction. Authors of Travels, &c. are often the cause, yet unintentionally, probably, of the fonnation of such wild fancies. " Coun- tries," as Goldsmith observes, '* wear different appear- ances to travellers of different circumstances. A man who is whirled through Europe (or any country), in a post-chaise, and the pilgrim that walks the tour on foot, will form very different conclusions." The little incidents and particulars which will be found in this Journal, may appear in themselves but trifling ; yet collectively, with the frequent and familiar comparisons made of things in America to similar ones in England, they will give more striking and correct ideas than general observa- tions and disconnected statements. " Trifles discover characters more than actions of importance." Perseverance alone can ensure success; the emigrant to either the United States or Canada must work to prosper, or bring that property with him to purchase land cleared and cultivated, with which he might have enjoyed comfort at home. On having a grant of land Vlll PREFACE. that is in a state of nature, much is to be done before he can even find a shelter, and he must wait for the seasons for his crops. It is in the New World as in the Old, connexions must be formed before prosperity can be ensured ; but the difficulty in doing this is not so great as it is in England, from the rapid increase of population, each seeking mutual assistance and cor- respondence with their establishments, agricultural and commercial ; therefore, if a person is industrious, and so fortunate as to have a family capable of joining in his labours, and living in the bonds of affection, there can be no doubt that he will prosper ; that his declining years may be passed in ease ; and his descendants be in possession of ample affluence. Feeling his inability to detail the information acquired by experience in the pleasing manner he could wish, he craves the indulgence of his readers; he offers no speculative theory, clothed in visions of fancy, to their notice ; his are the proceedings of a man, who, used to move in a respectable sphere, felt the reverses brought about by political causes, and who, as a true citizen of the world, sought the reinstatement of his former cir- cumstances by seeking a place, where his diminished means, his personal labour, and the resources of his ^ mind, could be actively employed; and he trusts his information will not be less valued, from being con- veyed in a plain unvarnished style. >«t^. INTRODUCTION. OS THE CAUSES OF EMIGRATION. The first and by far the most prominent one is priva- tion, and its consequent distress. The next, perhaps, is dissatisfaction under real or fancied political grievances. Some few emigrate for a warmer, dryer, or healthier climate, and others for no reason but a love- of change. Formerly religious persecution was the chief cause of expatriation, but happily that barbarous age is gone by ; yet, unfortunately, there is another cause of late years in operation, although not of so violent a charac-N ter, more dangerous from its insidious and constantly increasing power. That this privation and distress should occur to thou- sands and tens of thousands, in a country the ric^hest on earth, the most flourishing in arts, manufactures, com- merce, and agriculture, is of so anomalous and glaring a character, that it forces itself on the attentica of every one. I have not the ability to exhibit a full elucidation of a cause of such magnitude ; but as it has the effect of driving so many of my countrymen yearly into exile, I may be allowed a few words on the subject of this extra- ordinaiy state of things. CPPI r 2 INTRODUCTION. The chief source of the evils complained of, is the accumulating immense wealth into large masses; vir- tually monopolizing (since the introduction of steam power and other modem machinery) the means and sources of the middle and lower classes, like large globules of quicksilver swallowing up small ones within their sphere of attraction. In the first place, is not this incontrovertibly the case with respect to the soil, the primary and only solid source of wealth of most countries ? For instance, are there one half the number of proprietors and occupiers of land now in England there were 30 or 40 years ago ? Is it not a notorious fact that large landed proprietors buy up all the small farms and lots of land they can meet with? I have known parishes that had 40 or more small proprietors and occupiers of land, where now there is not moi*e than one-third of that number ; the remainder generally become labourers, nearly their only resource, throwing an extra quantity of the article of labour into a market sufficiently supplied, and, con- sequently, depreciating its value belbw a just and equi- table price, the landlord and fundholder reaping the benefit from the depreciation. But it will be asked, why will farmers give a greater rent than they can afford ? I answer, because those farmers, that still have a little money left, must rent a farm at some price ; they cannot do any thing else; all other trades and occupations are already overdone. The landlord is enabled to keep up his high rents by throwing three or four farms into one, thereby creating a competition, by reducing the number in the market; while, as I before said, two or three of these farmers must, pro- J. 'if m INTRODUCTION. 3 bably go the parish. The one that gets the enlarged farm will curtail his expenses to meet the high rent, by reducing the number of labourprs kept on the four farms; thus he impoverishes th^ farm, and that in return impoverishes him, until perhaps in a short time his resource also is the same degraded station, the parish. I by no means intend unqualified censure to any class, — for it is not reasonable to expect land-owners will take low rents while they can get high ones, any more than any other classes will dispose of their pro- perty at a less value than it will bring in the market. It is the business of legislators, by wise enactments, to regulate, either directly or indirectly^ those matters, and prevent unjust monopoly. In manufactures, some of the arts, and navigation, this monopolizing system, chiefly through the aid of steam power, is still more apparent. Suppose, for a moment, that, within ten years from the present date, one-third of the human labour now required in Great Britain be superseded by machinery, in addition to the present amount, there would then be nearly half the population unemployed, or unprofitably employed, the evils of which, if not counteracted, must overwhelm the country in inevitable confusion : in a word, means of living must be found, either without or with labour. Capital, in conjunction with machinery, is rapidly, though silently, creating a greater revolution in the kingdom than was ever done by politics. How can these evils be avoided, it may be asked, or would I have machinery destroyed? To destroy machinery, I answer, would be retrograding towards barbarism, and b2 ^ INTRODUCTION. who could say to what extent it should be carried, even if practicable? In fact, its destruction could only be effected by the united consent and power of every coun- try ; which I need not add can never be obtained. Nor is its destruction necessary to the happiness and welfare of the world ; but that it may prove a blessing instead of a curse, it must be reduced from a mountain torrent to fertilizing streams. How this is to be accomplished is worthy serious attention. I shall not presume to enter deeply into it, but only suggest a few hints. A recurrence might be had to the old system of cottages and small farms. If in each parish every farm that is over 200 acres were divided into two, there would be then, on an average, four or five farms more in each township, requiring as many extra farmers to occupy them. These farms, when divided, would probably employ more labourers in proportion, and the land be kept in better condition than before. In conjunction with this, let a number of neat and convenient cottages be built in each parish, (if there are not enough already), and three or four, to eight or ten, or more acres, of land, be attached to each by the rich land-owner, the parish, or act of parliament, to be let to the most indus- trious and honest part of the labouring class, allowing at leaut one-half to be retained in arable, for potatoes, other vegetables, and grain. These, with a little assist- ance and indulgence at first, would pay as much rent per acre as a farmer. By this means labour would be taken from the present overstocked market, and poor rates proportionably reduced. A stimulus would be given to industry and honesty in the lower classes, for aspiring to those cottage farms, and thence to a higher - ^ V- . »NTRODUCTION. grade ; from being now degraded nearly as' low, and as incapable of emancipating themselves and rising in the scale of society, as the unfortunate African. »tf«',Jt' By the cottage and small larm system, in conjunction with an adequate and permanent abatement of rents in proportion to the price of grain, all the present popula- tion might be beneficially employed. The former would be a kind of reserve of labour, to which recourse could be had by the farmer in busy times, to the mutual benefit of each. To check the monopolizing system in land, and to give eflScacy to the cottage and small farm system, let a graduated tax b^ levied on all occupiers who retain in their possession more than 100 acres, to be appropriated to the use of the poor; this would effectually put a stop to the system now in practice, of holding more than can be cultivated to the best advan- tage to the country, and would, perhaps, keep three or four families, and employ double the number of labourers it now does, if divided and conducted with energy. Numbers of large farms might easily be pointed out at the present moment, capable of keeping a great increase of stock, and producing much more grain than they now do. — The want of capital is, per- haps, the chief obstacle that prevents large farms being cultivated to the best advantage ; nine out of ten of their occupiers have had their capitals reduced by these retrograding times, and, unwilling to lose any of their dignity or appearance in society, continue to occupy them, though at a certain loss. To counteract the growing and pernicious influenro of immense monopo- lizing capitals, and further to relieve the poor and in- dustrious classes, let taxes be taken off every article rj 6 INTRODUCTION. and commodity of general utility, and the necessaries of life, and put on property and luxury only. Whatever difference in opinion may be held respect- ing the causes of the frequent embarrassments of the agricultural and manufacturing interests, and the more severe privations of the labouring classes, all must ac> knowledge its frequent existence, and the paramount necessity of an adequate and speedy remedy. Whether our rulers, or any body of the people, take the case up seriously, before it manifests itself in a more forcibly convincing manner, remains to be seen. But if they do not, emigration appears to me the only remedy in the hands of those who may have sufficient money to carry them out of the influence of the evil — out of the coun- try. In case such an event be the alternative adopted, the following pages may be of some service to direct in the choice of a situation. h^ii- ,'Jliii^'i :»■>*»: *i; ,i -f 4,. Y * f ■ - T • INQUIRIES OF AN EMIGRANT. '«' CHAPTER I. Tlie Author's motives for Emigration — Preparations for the Voyage — Embarkation, and Passage out, I SHALL premise the causes of leaving my native coun- try, and reasons for preferring the United States; in doing which I am only describing the misfortunes and fate of thousands of my countrymen. I took a farm previous to the close of the late war (about 1813), on a seven years' lease, and of course at a high rent The year following, peace came, and with it ruin to nearly one-fourth of the agriculturists. My landlord compelled me to hold the farm for the term I had taken it, with but a small and insufficient abatement of rent. The consequence was, that with strict attention to economy and industry, at the close of my lease I had lost one-half of my little capital, the remains of which not being sufficient to stock the farm, I was obliged to give it up, although offered it at one- half the former rent. I then took his Majesty's mi- nisters' advice, that, "if farming would not answer, I , 8 INQUIRIES OF farmers must engage in some other business." I en- gaged in another business, but through the shortness of my funds, and a combination of untoward circum- stances, I lost the remainder of my property. I now determined to leave a country that no longer afforded me a respectable and comfortable subsistence, thinking no person with one spark of independent spirit, could hesitate a moment in a choice between honorable, though even laborious, exertion and dangers, with in- dependence, to a dronish uselessness in society, or a mean ignoble dependence on friends. Van Diemen's Land and the United States presented me with a choice of place for my exile. I weighed the inducements held out by each, deliberately, and their attractions counterpoised in the balance for some time, until the shortness and cheapness of the passage to the latter preponderated, and decided my choice : I then had not the least intention of going to Canada, a place I had been led to believe was frozen up two-thirds of the year, and scorched up the remainder; but on arriving in the United States, I procured better information, without seeking it. ^ '^* In October, 1824, I engaged with an American cap- tain of a brig, lying in the London Docks, bound to Baltimore, for a passage in the steerage, for six guineas, my finances not allowing me to go in the cabin ; and being the only passenger on board (excepting two young American seamen who worked their passage) had the privilege of a small apartment to myself, dignified with the name of " state-room." Some days passed in pro- viding provisions, &c. with great trouble in procuring the variety of articles wanted, to the best advantage. V AN EMIGRANT. I en- rtness of* circum- I now afforded thinking it, could norable, with in- ty, or a u resented ^hed the nd their ne time, je to the I then a place hirds of arriving fmation, an cap- ound to guineas, in; and o young had the led with in pro- ocuring rantage. and on tlic 1 8th we sailed with the morning tide and a fair wind, down the river Thames ; a frosty morning, but a fine pleasant day ; numbers of vessels going out ; and anchored off Gravcscnd for the night. 1 had paid 1/. to u person residing near the entrance of the Docks, for procuring me a " cocket " or clearance, which I am inclined to think was rather an imposition, but he said lie would have procured the same for four or five pas- sengers, had there been as many, for the same money ; went on shore to the custom-house n.t Gravesend, to deliver the above cocket ; was asked my name, and if an Englishman, and for a reference in London. I had nothing to pay, nor was any certificate of my occupation or identity, required, as I had been led to expect ; some officers came on board, but did not examine my trunks, merely asking if they contained wearing apparel and personals only. The provisions I took for my passage were laid in for eight weeks' consumption, and I bad no restriction in quantity or variety (there are restric- tions in some ports respecting quantity, particularly if a considerable number of passengers are going in a ship) ; in the Appendix I have stated particulars at length. We left Gravesend with a fair wind, and pretty good spirits, my thoughts ranging through the New World I had now fairly embarked for, and then returning again to the land of my nativity, friends, and former home, which, at times, would cause an involuntary sigh ; but the hopes and prospect ever-cheering fancy presented to my mind, dissipated all gloom, and I bade adieu to Old England without much regret. The wind being a-head, we tacked and came to anchor off Margate for the night j in the morning beat up into the Downs, 10 INQUIRIES OF when the pilot left us; a New York packet-ship, the Trident, passed in fine stile, without tacking once, through her superior powers of sailing, and was in port three weeks before us; this may serve as a hint to emigrants to engage a passage in a good sailing vessel, which may be ascertained generally by inquiry, or by die sharpness of their bows. I would also recommend every one, before engaging his passage in a ship, to inquire her age (from two to ten years is best), and to see if her sails, rigging, anchors, and cables are good, and also if the captain is steady, respectable, and agree- able ; a middle-aged one I would generally prefer. On leaving the Downs, we experienced a rough sea ; which produced sickness in the captain as well as myself; the weather was quite warm, the thermometer being at 63 ; the wind increasing, we made considerable head-way, and in two days lost sight of the Lizard Point, and a pigeon passed us fifteen miles from the land ; a packet spoke us from the Straits, bound to Liverpool. There is no regard paid to Sunday, as a sabbath, on board this vessel, indeed, sometimes it would be impossible ; on the 26th, a heavy gale came on, and continued throughout the day ; I could hardly get from my berth or help tumbling out; no life nor power to move — just enough to wish myself on some shore ; the wind dropped in the night, but the sea con- tinued to roll its mighty waves — .,, •* Oh wonderful thou art, great element ! ..,^. And fearful in thy spleeny humours bent, , : y, ^ Yet lovely in repose." This was succeeded by a calm (three vessels in sight); ate a little gruel and a pancake only; a good V M 1 ^il" (11 AN EMIGRANT. II ship, the ig once, 8 in port hint to g vessel, y, or by ommend ship, to , and to ire good, id agree- fer. ugh sea; well as mometer siderable e Lizard i'om the ound to ly, as a times it lie came 1 hardly life nor >n some sea con- ssels in a good .'i. deal of the latter used in the cabin. October 2Uth, another strong gale during the night, in which wo again " lay too:" wind south-west, which drove us in sight of Cape Clear, in Ireland, by the morning, and in the heavy squall which followed, we had near been capsized through the negligence of the mate not taking in the sails soon enough ; the captain, who was in bed when it came on, was instantly on deck, and gave the mate a deserved reprimand; one of the sails giving way, and the wind lowering, they were enabled to set all right again ; the weather for several days various, and we felt a warmer climate, and longer days, north latitude 44 : 29— longitude, 12 : 30, west— thermome- ter 83. On the evening of Nov. 2d, a bank of clouds arose north-west, and a breeze spnmg up in our favour ; we had now been thirteen days at sea, and its effects were such, that provisions were in some measure useless, tea, gruel, pudding, or a roasted potatoe being all I could take, with soda-water, or a little warm porter for drink; but at this time the weather became pleasant and warm, with light wind, thermometer 65, and the sea being nearly smooth, partially restored my health, and I made ample amends in eating after my long abstinence ; we now got so far from land that the gulls and other sea birds left us, and experienced a variety of winds, but generally warm weather, and the voyager would have some pleasure in agreeable and decorous company ; whales sported about, and other large fish were occasionally near the vessel. The saline air caused my apparel to become damp and mouldy, and knives, &c. to rust ; attention to these matters, assisted in passing time away, but occasional squalls would in- II' 12 INQUIRIES OF terrupt my business; in the twilight I often nmused myself, when tliere was a gentle hreeze fanning the surface of the water, by viewing the ripples it made with their white caps, it looked so much like an exten- sive fallow-field, with a slight scattering of snow on its unevennesses ; and fancy, ever busy, conjured up in the distance some well-known familiar spot for the imagination to feast on, till the darkening shades of niglit, or the approach and noise of sailors, aroused me from my reverie ; — ten days thus passed, when we had a heavy breeze all day, and took in the main top-gallant sails. Have seen of late a large brown bird of the gull species, which the sailors call a shear-water, and some small birds like martins they denominate Mother Gary's chickens. The ship's store of potatoes became half rotten through having been dug before they were ripe, and put on board in a wet state. Mine remained quite sound, but began to shoot, through the mild season. Rather disagreeable weather followed this gale, and several seas broke over the vessel : then a dead calm ensued, and the ship rolled much ; but a smart breeze soon sprung up, north by east, which carried us eight knots per hour, and was the first wind the sailors called fair, that is, lying aft, or at the hind part of the vessel. The sea water is quite warm, and sparkles alongside the ship at night like fire ; this appearance is caused, appa- rently, by the ship's side dashing the salt water into air-bubbles : some assert that this fiery appearance arises from a kind of animalculse, but this opinion is evidently erroneous, for these animalculae are never numerous enough in the water in any one place, and but occasionally to be met with at all, when these \ AN EMIGRANT. sparkles arc f-verywljere to be seen in the ni^ht in salt water. The- air from the waves which bre^K at the ship's side, on leaning over, rises in the face like the steam from heated water. Tiie vessel now made a good deal of water when the sea was rough. /in The captain swears and storms like a madman ; at one time cursing the men (by-the-by, some of them were a stupid set of fellows), then the ship, and the weather, and almost in the same breath saying, they could not have had a better day for the work they had 10 do, and that we had been highly favoured through- out: so inconsistent is human nature ! •r>^ We were often compelled to lay to, in which there is little danger in any moderate gale, provided you have plenty of sea-room to drift, and the vessel has far less motion than if sailing in the same wind, or in a calm. In one of the late gales the tiller rope broke, when it threw down, and very much cut and bruised, the man steering. My butter was all spoiled through the warm weather, not having been potted close, and sufHcient salt put in it. Squalls, calms, head winds, &c. continue, ard the captain says he never experienced so much bad weather and opposing winds before. A disagreeable life on board in such seasons : perhaps you are pitched head- foremost against one side of the vessel by a lee-lurch, or a roll, anU before you have time lo recover your legs, tumbled to the other side; or at dinner, the dishes and , plates with their contents are suddenly dashed to title floor, when the potatoes, &c. are rolling about fronrl one side of the vessel to the other, as if playfully .imusing themselves; and, while attempting / I'^l h '■'i >ii! 14 INQUIRIES OF their recovery, you roll after them, or tumble head- foremost, to the no small amuseir.ent of the rest of the company. We continued to experience westerly winds, which retarded our progress greatly, a proof of which was, that we spoke a brig from New York, bound to Buenos Ayres, out only eight days, and it took us three weeks to get into port; indeed, their prevalence is a strong reason why the voyage out should not be undertaken at this season, and that this period, or a little earlier, is often chosen to return to England. Appearances indi- cated an approach to the New World, and like similar circumstances to Columbus filled us .vith hope. Great quantities of sea or gulph-weed floated p'^^t us, and on the 4th of December we were in latitude 34 : 35, and southed a degree. Beautiful April-like weather, ther- mometer 71 in the shade, and 73 in the water ; some- times some light showers, with occasionally lightning in the evenings. The air exhibited a cuiious appearance, being of a yellowish red colour, and the clouds of a cinerous blue, which were in a thousand fantastic and singular forms, the sailors called them snow-clouds. Saw a number of flying fish pursued by a dolphin, and also numerous beautiful coloured nautilus or " men of war," with their sails expanded to tht? breeze, blown swiftly over the undulating waves. My bottled porter was excellent, and of great service now I had re- covered from the sea-sickness ; saw no mor^ gulph-weed. We had now crossed the back stream, and \.'ere between the two ; it runs down the eastern coast of America, across the banks of Newfoundland, round the Western Isles, and along the coast of Africa. > AN EMIGRANT. m nble head- rest of the nds, "which which was, I to Buenos hree weeks is a strong dertaken at I earlier, is ances indi- like similar pe. Great us, and on t : 35, and ither, ther- iter; some- Lghtning in ppeavance, louds of a itastic and low-clouds. Iphin, and " men of ize, blown led porter I had re- Iph-weed. :e between America, Western Dec. 6. — Squally again of late. Getting near the gulph-stream, which makes it warm, and great quan- tities of the gulph, or sea-weed is seen again ; it nearly covers the surface of the water in some places, and in others it is extended for miles in parallel lines, north- east and south-west ; I should suppose drifted from the side of the stream, which runs in that direction in this part. Dec. 10. — Gett"v'5 too far south, through the preva- lence of north-west winds ; latitude 33 : 30, thermometer 65 in the air, and 72 in the water. A shark ten or twelve feet in length came alongside the vessel, and a number of grampuses were seen at a distance. Fine weatlier, and would be delightful if on shore, and not altogether otherwise here. Dec. 12. — Light wind, and smooth sea ; clear, bright, warm day. Two dolphins came swimming about the vessel, one of which the captain struck with a fish- spear, and succeeded in getting it on board; they all said it was the largest they had ever seen, six feet seven and a half inches in length, and I should suppose weighed three quarters of a cwt. or more. Dec, 13. — Hardly any wind of iate, but a breeze sprung up this morning, and soon rose into a gale, and at noon blew violently from the southward. The foam Hew like fine-drifted snow : the wind suddenly fell, and then chopped roimd to the north-west, and blew more moderate, when the grandest sight I had ever seen pre- sented itself: the tremendous billows meeting in all directions formed a thousand fantastical shapes, some- times running up into high peaks or spires, then sud- denly sinking into vast abysses; or two large waves 16 INQUIRIES OF meeting, rose into an immense ridge ; or meeting with violence, dashed their spray in all directions, as if in a rude, frolicsome play, while the vessel rose up their mountain sides most majestically, receiving now and then a salute from their gamhols. Rain came on, and clouds were seen flying in various directions ; the air remarkably warm. Thermometer in the morning 70, and in the water at noon 74 ; and before night 79 ; remaining at 70 in the air. — So we are in the Great Gulph stream at last ! Dec. 15. — Through the Gulph as it is called, and the air gets colder every hour. Shortened sail last night, and sounded without flnding bottom. Found, by an observation taken at noon, we were in latitude 35 : 19. Just north of Cape Hattrass, a dangerous reef of sunken rocks, running forty miles into the sea, on the coast of Carolina. Sounded again in the evening, and found nineteen fathoms water. The thermometer had sunk in the air to 45, and in the water to 68. Water on soundings looks green, in the ocean a dark blue ; this is universal, I am told. Dec. 16.— Made land this morning opposite Roanoke Inlet, North Carolina, near the borders of Virginia, seventy miles too far south of the Chesapeak Bay; ranged within five miles of the shore all day, with a light breeze, and fine clear cold air. Cannot see any- thing of the country, but clay and sand banks, covered with pines and other trees ; it is apparently a flat land along the sea-board; vessels sailing in diflerent direc- tions, and numbers of wild ducks seen along the shore. Dec. 17. — As no pilot came on board last evening, a lantern was hung up in the night at the mast head, for •ii AN EMIGRANT. 17 a signal, and at two o'clock this morning one hove his boat alongside and was taken on board, who proceeded immediately with the vessel round Cape Heuiy, into the Ches>apeak Bay ; the wind having got south-east at - the same time, with a stiff breeze, wafted us along faster ? than we had sailed all the time we had been out. Raines and hazy weather came on this evening, which com- pelled us reluctantly to come to an anchor for fear of the shoals. The Chesapeak is a very fine Bay, from ten or twelve to twenty miles across, and upwards of two hundred long; its low banks, friiiged with trees, are all that is to be seen of the country, excepting here and there a house near the shore, and occasionally a small town or village. A great number of small craft, loaded with cord, wood for fuel, country produce, &c> for Baltimore market. Ten thousands of wild ducks, geese, swans, &c., almost covering the Bay, swimming and flying; an English sportsman would be in his Elysium here ! Dec. 18, — After a wet, blowing night, it cleared up soon after day-light this morning, when we weighed anchor, and proceeded up ,e. Patapsco River. As beautiful a day as ever shone, with a serene mild air, and pleasant light breeze. Vessels of all sizes sailingk in various directions, with well-dressed people on board ; and Baltimore, with its white buildings rising to our view on the sides of the hills, as we approached it, had a most exhilarating effect on one whose vision had been confined to the monotonous rolling of the unstable waters for sixty-five days, which is deemed a very long passage. nr I i 18 INQUIRIES OF CHAPTER II. Arrival at Baltimore — Description of the Toum, its Inhabitants, and Customs — Excursions in the neigh- bourhood, and continued residence — with a variety of miscellaneous Remarks. My diary having been kept as a daily journal, I shall now offer it to the reader in that form, as exhibiting, better than any otlier mode, a narrative of my proceed- ings ; and presenting to him the best means of under- standing the occupations of my time, and the space I traversed. On the 18th Dec, at two o'clock, the pilot laid the vessel alongside the wharf, when, in an instant its deck was covered with people of all sorts, looking about and asked questions. After packing my luggage, I went into the town to procure something to eat, lodgings, &c., when I felt myself a stranger, on a foreign, although a kindred strand. After dining heartily on some excellent sausages, with some pleasant mild ale, I took a ramble through the city ; but I hardly knew how to walk, the pavement seemed to have the motion of the vessel. Baltimore is a large town, with some handsome public and private buildings; the streets are spacious, airy, and clean ; the centres pitched with rock stone, and the side walks paved with red brick, of which also the houses are mostly built. Pratt-street, along tha water side, was all in a bustle, and apparently full of business, m !. 1 m AN EMIGRANT. IS) but the method of doing it evidentlv differs considerably from the manner in England. Dec. 19. Sunday. — At one church, and two meeting- houses (no chapels here) ; some of them elegant buildings, with very respectable-looking congregations. Dined with the captain, whose treatment was hospit- able. The manners of the Americans appear widely different to the English, particularly of the females, who are more easy and unembarrassed, yet reser\ed, in their address, than the retirirg diffidence of the latter. Took lodgings at a respectable ship carpenter's, at three dollars, or 13«. Qd. sterling, per week, board, washing, and mending included. Dec. 20. — A clear, bright, frosty air this morning. Thermometer in my sleeping room 43. Went to the custom-house, with the captain, to clear my luggage. Paid half a dollar to a notary (a very polite, agreeable person) for drawing up an inventory and certificate of my luggage, and 20 cents (one-fifth of a dollar, or about \\d. sterling) on presenting it; when the only question asked was. Will you swear this is a correct statement, and that the articles are for your own private use ? I merely answered in the affirmative. Had a ramble through the town and its environs. Like the appear- ance of the Americans generally, and think the place prosperous, as the people appear to be all employed and busy, and have the air of ease and content in their countenances, with but little superciliousness. The markets are well supplied with meat as to quantity, but the quality not quite so good as in England, ex- cepting the pork, which is fine ; some little good beef, but veal and mutton very indifferent, nor is trouble c 2 lif 11 W III 'iiH 'ill! 'i' ''ill. ! I- 1 :' ill' .III i I I ail I ao INQUIRIES OF taken to set it off to the best advantage. The vege- tables brought to market now are chiefly potatoes, beets, and cabbages, great quantities of the latter, and mostly drumheads ; some few carrots, turnips, onions, sweet potatoes, &c. at moderate pi ices. A great many ne- groes about the markets and wharfs, who appear far more lively and as independent as the whites, but are treated by the latter as inferior beings ; v;ill not eat at the same table, or walk in thejr company, and have separate places of worship. There are five market houses in Baltimore, some of them large, and all conveniently built, very similar to the old Fleet Market in London. The centres, which are spacious, are occupied on each side by the butchers ; on the outside of the butchers' stalls is also a passage on each side, with stalls on either hand, where vege- tables, country produce, flour, meal, &c., ready-made clothes, shoes, tin-ware, &c. are exposed. The fish mar- kets are at the ends of the others, and generally well supplied. To-day are their Christmas markets, at which there is great plenty of every thing — some good beef, pork excellent, mutton thin and small, veal (calf) hardly fit to eat, killed too young. Beef, 2d. to 3^d. pe^ pound ; the best cuts, 4^d. (I have stated the prices in sterling money, being far more conveniently under- stood by the British reader) ; pork generally sold by the carcass, brought in by the farmers from the country, from 2d, to olid, per pound, and sometimes even lower ; veal and mutton by the quarter, at l^. 2d. to 2s. 3d. each; turkeys, Is. 2d. to 2s. Sd. each; fowls, 6^d. to 9d, ditto; cabbages, (drumheads), Id. to 2d, each; po« tatocs and turnips, lOd. to Is. 2d. per bushel, &c. I AN EMIGRANT. it was asked in the market 51. for a cow and calf, worth in England 8/. or 10/., only five or six cows in the market; no fairs for cattle here, and hut few sold in the markets ; there are some farmers that deal in them, and supply those who want, and I am told do pretty well by it; wholesale butchers buy up the droves of cattle that are driven from Ohio and the west, slaughter, and sell them to the retail ones. The reg* Jations re- specting the markets in this warm climate are judicious ; no slaughtering allowed in the town — no butchers' shops opened any where; the cattle are killed out of town, and the meat taken to the market houses early in the morning, where the inhabitants flock at break of day with their baskets, as every one carries home his purchases. Thi markets close in summer at eleven o'clock, in winter at one. Great numbers of country waggons at the market every day through the fall, [autumn] winter, and spring, with country produce. Large quantities of water-fowl, from the Bay, brought to the markets during the winter ; wild ducks, a great variety, from 3^d. to 5d. each ; the canvas-back is large, and considered a delicacy. Is. Id. to Is, 6d. each; partridges, 4rf. to 7d. each; quails, Id. to 2^d. ditto; hares and rabbits, small^ from 6d. to Is. each. The land round the city is hilly, commanding fine views down the Bay, and over the country. The soil in the vicinity is a mixture of dirty yellow clay, with sand and gravel, but the bottoms or small valleys which lie to the east and north-west are good, and here are the gardens that supply the markets. On the little hills and risings are situated some country seats, that the wealthy inhabitants retire to in summer ; their white- 22 INQUIRIES Ot ! ■' II ncss, enlivened with the brightness of the sun, on open- ing to the view in different directions, from behind the Mlips of woods, reminds me of some spots in the neigh- bourhood of London, but on approaching them many are in a dilapidated state, and the gardens and fences in a slovenly, neglected condition. Dec. 25. — Christmas-day: instead of ringing bells, &c. as in England (there are but few bells here to ring) it was ushered in by firing guns, squibs, and crackers all last night, and continues with intervals through the day. The moment I arose this morning, I was pre- sented with a glass of "egg-mogg," as they termed it, a compound of rum, eggs, milk, and sugar, also with ginger-cake, and a cake with raisins in it, which is their ** Christmas cake ; " all for merry-making and " par- ties." I was pressed to one in the evening with the <;aptain and his wife, a number of fine females and their beaus present ; the time was spent with a variety of plays, singing songs, playing on the piano, eating cake, drinking toddy, peach brandy, &c., quite a sociable party, the female part easy and apparently unaffected ; broke up early by the request of our host, the next day being Sunday. Americans use very little or no cere- mony, except tlie introduction by shaking hands, &c. ; each leaves table at meal-time as soon as done eating, and they are generally quick: no bidding good night, or other ceremony, on going to bed. Dec. 26, Sunday. — ^The day as fine as the preceding, thermometer 47, with a clear bright air ; the sun rises twenty-five minutes after seven o'clock on the shortest day, and sets thirty-five minutes past four. At the Roman Catholic cathedral this morning; it is just AN EMIGRANT. iiuished, and is a large elegant place, far superior to the one in Moorfields, London ; there is another church here also of that persuasion, and a grand Unitarian one, hut the latter has but a small congregation ; there are besides, Episcopalians [church of England], Presbyte- rians, Congregationalists, Baptists, Quakers, and Me- thodists; the latter appear to be the most numerous, they having four or five large meetings, and all well attended. At one of them this evening ; the male part of the audience on one side of the meeting, and the female on the other; the preacher respectable, but rather too noisy, yet he had to beg the attention of the congregation more than once ; no pews, but long en- closed seats from one end to the other of the gallery, and below, from the aisles to the sides, and across be- tween them ; every one appeared to sit where he thought proper; the floors most disgustingly dirty from the effects of tobacco ; more than half the males of the age of fourteen chew tobacco ; and boys of ten or twelve years may often be seen smoking a cigar. Dec, 27. — A thick fog this morning, wind east, and no frost ; sun broke through the mist at noon, when it was quite warm. I took my gun into the woods, but found no game ; on my return, by the race-ground, a number of persons had a bull tied to a stake for the purpose of baiting ; I stopped to see a " set-to," as I had never seen one before ; the bull was a fine, well- bred, gentle creature ; seven or eight dogs were turned loose at him at once ! They soon tore his ears off, and shockingly lacerated his head, which made the poor thing bellow hideously, and run about in every direction to the length of his chain, maddened with pain ; in ten 24 INQUIRIES OF .1 !.' J 'i ibi 'I minutes he had killed one dog, and lamed others, when I turned away with disgust at the cruel sport ; I was afterwards informed, the animal's head was literally torn to pieces ! One might he led to suppose, by this spectacle, the Baltimoreans are a depraved set of beings, but I must say to their credit, I saw not more than ten or twelve of respectable looking people there, the others, about one hundred, consisted of the refuse of the place, and a number of them job butchers. Bull-baiting is not allowed in the liberties of the city, and means are about to be taken to put a stop to it altogether. I have been looking out for some little business, or a situation as superintendent, or overseer of a farm, but have not yet succeeded ; 1 find I am not prepared for the latter, because / do not understand the management of Blacks. I have been introduced to some English- men, but they, generally, have treated me with far more reserve and coolness than the Americans. One from the Isle of Wight, a Mr. S., says he was an extensive farmer and butcher there : he has been here about two years, and is doing pretty well as a butcher, having nothing much when he came, and has some ungracious feelings towards his native country. Another from Hampshire has been here fifty-six years, and is seventy- eight years of age. He shouldered his musket in the late war, he tells me, to defend his home. Sunday^ Jan. 2, 1825. — Some snow in the night, with rain, and afterwards frost, which makes the streets all ice ; some few sleighs about to day, with bells, which I am told they are compelled to have by law, that they may not run foul of each other in the night. Heard a rather celebrated orator (a Methodist preacher from the AN EMIGRANT. 26 back woods), hold forth in a meeting belonging to another denomination, in aid of a subscription for build- ing an asylum for orphan females ; a fluent speaker, but manner too theatrical, and language bombastic. Jan, 10. — Frosty of late, when there were plenty of people to be seen skating. Been to ask the price of land to rent; one lot of fifty acres, only half cleared, four miles from town, 18«. per acre per annum : another of rich bottom land, or meadow, several miles ofl) near the river, I was asked 12 dollars, or 2/. 14«. per acre, rent. Great numbers of waggons from distant parts of the country every day, with barrels of flour for the merchants, and fat hogs, dead, for the market; some come four hundred miles, the drivers sleeping in the waggons at night, and carry with them the horses' feed; the waggons are excellent, strong, and light; narrow wheels, narrow in the body, with tilts, seven or eight bows bent over, and removable at pleasure, these covered by a light-coloured flne canvass, drawn together at each end like a purse : the horses go double, with a pole, like a coach, generally four or six in each, some- times Ave, the driver riding the near hind horse, with reins in one hand and whip in the other, and mostly go a trot. Smaller and very light waggons, drawn by one horse, called carry-alls, or carioles, are used to bring in milk, butter, eggs, fowls, &c. Vendues [auctions] of books, and almost every description of merchandise, are held every few days, and others at night. Some- times things are sold very low, — I saw some British goods nearly, as cheap as in London; American books much lower, but they are not quite so well printed, and paper generally inferior. mm 26 INqUllllER OF 'I -; lii't' ii Sunday f Jan. 10. — Dull foggy day; frost out of the ground again. Witnessed a military funeral procession (General Harper, who died suddenly on Friday last); an early burial, we should think, yet here, I am told, it is the custom to inter a cori)se the next, and often the same day of its decease. A grand parade of near 2000 soldiers, volunteers, there are no regulars in the city ; there were three bands of music with muHled drums ; each company having a peculiar dress made their ap- pearance quite novel ; two companies with different coloured plaid dresses; they all had frock jackets, I believe. The procession began with some ofKcers, then some companies, and music playing various solemn airs; three or four more companies and music; then two brass field-pieces, and company of artillery-men ; more music, and companies ; then the hearse, (a small one, open on the side, as they all appear to be here) ; the General's horse, witli sword, boots, &c. ; mourning coaches; riflemen in companies; and closed with a great number of hackney coaches, and thousands of pedes- trians. Some of the above companies are composed of respectable tradesmen, who have expensive dresses, with ostrich feathers on their caps, which gives them much the r.ppearance of the ancient Spanish dress. General Harper was a Federalist, and like the whole of that pari y was looked upon with a kind of suspicion, as they are thought to have too great an attachment to the English constitution. Jan. 23, Sunday. — At a Methodist meeting to-day; a woman cried out " mercy," and some others shouted " glory," and clapped hands, mostly women, and gene- rally by the same persons ; a common thing here I am AN EMIUKANT. '27 iiM, which nppcnrs evident, as it excited little or no sur- prise, even amongst the most thoughtless ; the preacher encouraged it, by preaching, or rather exclaiming louder m the women cried the more, till at last it amounted to almost raving ; and becauue he could not make any •apparent impression on the rest of the congregation, he accused them of hardness of heart, &c. I fear there is more weakness and enthusiasm than true devotion in such scenes as these ; still custom makes it sufferable, and the Methodists have been rapidly increasing the last few years, and have evidently done nuich good ; in most of the meetings here, of every denomination, they have another disgusting practice in the middle of the service, by holding a green bag at the end of a pole, in your face, along every seat, for money to purchase wood for the stoves, candles, &c. Here I will say a word or two on the excessive fondness of Americans for stoves : €very church and meeting has from two to four in each ; hardly a poor family in Baltimore but has one or more, at which the cooking is all done in winter, wrhich makes their rooms like ovens, and many people look as if half stewed. Lotteries are continually drawing here, and I believe have a bad tendency on the morals of the middle and lower classes. Almost every tavern keeps a bowling-alley, where the idle resort to play at ten pins (nine pins having been prohibited by law!) and various other games. Luxury and licentiousness appear to be usual in the lower part of the community, through the latitude and ability given by the republican institutions — as monarchial governments tend to the same effect in the upper classes of their subjects. Jan. 27. — There has been little frost through the 28 INQUIRIES OF S,;l, ,' winter, and finer weather I never saw ; the people say they never knew so mild a season, the winters heing sometimes rather severe. Walked into the country, hy a sm 1 stream full of falls, on which twelve or fourteen mills are erected within three or four miles — a most beautiful, romantic place ; the v/ater coming from high ground, has washed a channel of one hundred feet deep, and laid bare, in places, rocks and loose stones of an enormous size, some of thirty or forty tons ; trees grow out of the steep banks, fifty feet over head, and many from the top of the banks, entvt'ined with the dlender vine ; saw a f..:e field of cock's-foot (here termed orchard-grass) pasture, which they were manuring, rar thcr an uncommon practice it would seem ; the farmers are either too idle to draw out manure, /t do not know its value, or else it will not pay for the trouble, as such large quantities are seen lying about the town, treading to waste. It is said the machinery of several mills about Baltimore, is some of the finest in the world ; a large steam mill, at one of the wharfs, takes the v i^eat out of the holds of vessels by a screw, grinds it, dresses it, and barrels it, with hardly the least intervention of human labour. Inquired the price of some rich land that was advertised to let, belonging io a prudent Scotch- man, and was asked 3/. Ss. per acre, a-year; he said it would produce from 1000 to 1400 bushels of potatoes per acre ; it was rather singular, I replied, inasmuch as at a late agricultural meeting, ^. crop of only 250 bushels obtained a premium. In Market-street there are the remains of two triumphal arches erected in honour of General Lafayette, on his visit to this city. The people where I lodge, had what they call " a quilt- AN EMIGRANT. 29 intf frolic,'' where a number of neighbours came to quilt by invitation. A South American brig just refitted here, commanded by a Baltimore captain, who is con- sidered but little better than a pirate. A frigate is just lying on the stcckf, to be built for the same power, which causes a considerable demand for ship carpenters, and rise in wages — now giving from 7*. to 9*. per day, without board, the trade having been vsry flat before. Baltimore ship are allowed to be the fastest sailors in the United States, and, perhaps, in the world ; they are built very sharp, as it is termed, and are called clippers. Feb. 14. Vaitntiue's day, — in which Cupid holds court here as well as in England. T. re was some sharp weather at the beginning oil the month, but the harbour has not been frozen over through the winte'- so as to stop trade, which is rather singular, I cm told. The air continues cool, but the sun at tim.es is very warm ; the thermometer 50, in the house ; dirty unset- tled weather of late ; ducking parties often made, when four or five, or more persons, with three or four days' provision, get a small vessel and som& skiffs, and go down the Bay to the islands, where they place them- selves, and, perhaps, bag a hundred or two hundred in a day. March 7. — General M 'Donald, an old revolutioriary officer, having advertised for a superintcnrant over his farms, I made application, with an anxious and palpi- tating heart, for the humble situation ; and yet (as I feared) I was rejected; I did not suit, not hp.ving a wife to look after the dairy, nor having been acquainted with the American methods of farming, nor the management of blacks (slaves). I begin to feel in rather an unplea- 30 INQUIRIES OF ')'.:■■■ ;! i! ;i sant situation ; disappointed in all my endeavours and iny finances getting low ; but I am schooled to dis- appointments and misfortunes, they seem my unalien- able property. I now turned my attention towards home^ from whence I expected a letter, and some little money. No one that has not been placed in similar circumstances can tell my feelings at this time : no friend near to console or assist me, and I had neglected to bring letters of recommendation, which, when I left England, I supposed would be useless ; the lowest sta- tion seemed to await lae, but I summoned courage, to wait with patience, and rely on Providence. General M 'Donald is upwards of eightj years of age, yet is very active, and has been robi/ t; is an instance, by no means uncommon here, of tlje longevity of Europeans. It would seem, the climate is congenial to the robust and over-luxuriant constitutions bred in Britain. The dryness of the air, perhaps, desiccates the superabundant moisture generated by the dampness of an English climate. A young man, a ship carpenter from the Canada frontiers, has come to board where I am, he was compelled to leave that neighbourhood, having been detected in smuggling merchandise into that province in a fictitious or forged name ; he givf i a flattering account of the above country, near Detro ^ and says the climate is fine and healthy. Sunday f March 13. — Heard a woman preach, and the meeting was crowded to excess. She had a strong, and not unpleasant voice, except when strained above its natural key ; she prayed fervently and rather elo- quently, but her discourse not sufficiently explanatory. This was the first woman I have heard preach ; 8 » ■ it AN EVIORAMT. 31 appears to me, that a woman assuming the sacred and dignified office of a preacher, must sacrifice some of that modesty and delicacy of feeling, indispensable to the character of an amiable and virtuous female. March 17. St Patrick's Day.— The sons of Hibernia, after going in procession, and attending at the Roman Catholic church, exhibit a little of the overflowings of their natural warm-heartedness, excited by a drop of the " cratur." Weather getting as hot as May in England, with occasio .lal thunder showers, and the thermometer 65 this morning at sunrise. I have heard no Wrds singing in the fields, except a small blue bird, warbling like the lowest notes of the blackbird, and the chirping of robins — a bird of the size of field-fares, and like them in colour, with a reddish breast. Not one fourth so many small birds here as in England. Frogs are croak- ing, and a small sort whistling. Passed over Belvidere Bridg(? on the stream before-mentioned; it is a large and Ingenious piece of wooden workmanship, of one arch, one hundred and ninety feet span ; with two cart ways, twelve feet each, and two foot ways six feet each, and is covered over with a shingled roof, to keep it dry ; horses are not allowed to be trotted over it, under a penalty a considerable cotton factory near it (with one hundred and forty windows) worked by water. Passed through several " burying grounds" at the back of the town, on the common, slightly railed in ; on the tombs and head-stones in the Roman Cathclic one, I found Irish names generally. Baltimore consists, I believe, of more than half Irish and their descendants. The by- roads, and some of the turnpike ones, are now in a bad state through the thaws and heavy rains ; but it soon I 32 INQUIRIES OF I ,1 :!iil|! \bi !i I] dries up by the heat of the sun. It is s^id, there is more rain falls here than in England, which I think is proba- ble, ai'ising from its vicinity to the Gulph-stream, as , whenever the wind is from that quarter, rain or heavy fogs generally follow. Turnips sprouting, and grass beginning to grow ; saw some snow-drops, crocuses, &c. , blowing in the ''Columbian Garden," a poor place, belonging to a tavern, and made public in summer to drink in, &:c. But few private gardens in and about the town, although so much ground lying waste in every back street Houses here mostly full of windows ; a small room, in which I am now writing, has four; I 1" ' leen six in one room, yet still more singular, often . tviii, lirds of them closed by shutters and blinds. Some few of the houses are built narrow, with the roofs in- clining only one way, like half a large house split down ^ the middle into two. Roofs are universally formed of shingles, which have some appearance of tiles, but handsomer, end far preferable to either slates or tiles as non-conductors of heat in this hot climate, yet of course . more dangerous to fire. One evening, at the request of , a respectable young man, I accompanied him to a for- tune-teller ; she was a respectable-looking woman, with a family, in a well-furnished house; the latter, pro- bably, the fruits of disgusting culpability. Captains of vessels make it a practice to go to one of these oracles before embarking, to know their success ! Even strict professors of religion do not scruple to avow their belief, that they can give the desired information, past, pre- sent, and to come. I have been as near highly offend- ing some of them as prudence woidd dictate, by laughing at their credulity. AN EMIGRANT. 33 Sunday f March 21. — Heard an English Missionary preach ; two of them just arrived from the West Indies on the'r way home. The Captain with whom they came would not take any thing for their passage. The difference in manner and countenance of an English- man and an American, when placed in juxta-position, is striking. The latter have the appearance of less animation, good humour, and frankness, and I may add solidity and firmness of character; hut on the other hand they exhibit a more composed and even tempera- ment ; shrewd, easy, and unembarrassed, accompanied with an independent carelessness, the latter arising, probably, from their republican institutions, which re- cognize no superior. It is said " the liberal government of the United States has the effect of producing gene- rally in the deportment of individuals, who know neither superiors nor inferiors, a certain degree of ease and dignity that is equally removed from servility and arro- gance ; and that it is one of these practical principles that the poorer classes in this country are more civilized, more polite and friendly, though not so submissive, as persons of the same fortune in Europe." Attended a Bible Society ; no applause or apparent emotion excited by the speeches of the orators, more than at an ordinary religious meeting. The English, generally, have fuller features, and ruddier, healthier countenances than the Americans, still there are many fine, healthy, and fresh- looking of the latter, although some have a touch of the dark yellow tinge of the French and Spaniards, and others of a nankeen colour, which may, in part, arise from the heat of the climate. At the first interview with an American family, there is another feature D 34 INQUIRIES OF I' Strikingly evident — the precocious sage-like appearance and unembarrassed deportment of the children; no diffidence or reserve before strangers; and yet I can hardly call it impudence, it seems to them so easy and natural. Through the warmth of the climate it would seem they arrive at maturity at an earlier age, gene- rally, than in England ; the youngsters, from twelve to sixteen years of age, have the airs of men and women, and females then enter the matrimonial state ; there are Instances at the earliest of the above periods. A woman of twenty-five is undeservedly punished with the vile and reproachful epithet of " confirmed old maid ;" even at twenty they do not entirely escape it. The mistress of the house in which I lodge was married at fourteen years of age ; though I may just note by the way there are no mistresses or masters in this country, except for blacks ; the mistresses are all misses, married as well as single, with this distinction — an unmarried female has her christian, or (as it is called) "given " name added to Miss, which is not used to married females. March 22. — Fine bright warm weather, thermometer about 60 ; something like a fine English April. Had a stroll into the country ; grass and wheat begin to show green ; the last looks well ; fruit trees budding ; weep- ing-willows green. Great quantities of fish tied in bunches, lying along the Bay side, tainting the air. When the fishermen are not able to dispose of them before being spoiled, they are thus thrown into the 'water. Shad season just commenced; a fine fish of the herring kind, but ten times as large, sold at from Is. Id. to Is. 6d. a pair, weighing from one, to two or three lbs. each. One fisherman, the first day, caught AN EMIGRANT. 35 12,000, and sold them on the spot at 1/. 2s. 6d. per hundred, which is the general price. The fisheries for shad and herring, in the Bay, let for high rents. Great plenty of vegetahles at market; greens, turnip-tops, turnips, heets, parsnips, carrots, potatoes, celery, &c. and herbs, shrubs, and fruit trees. March SI. — Took a long ramble into the country; the day warm and pleasant, thermometer 64. Saw a man breaking up ley, which was rather stiff, with a pair of horses, and another at plough on some short lands, with one horse : their ploughs are very light and neatly made, better adapted for light work than any I have seen in general use in England. The Americans appear to adopt things to circumstances generally, not being chained with old customs and prejudices; they likewise think their " mingled descent from various nations has a benign influence on genius, something like the improving effects of an analogous state upon vegetables, and upon inferior animals." Been to see some fat show-beef at the Marsh Market, that was ad- vertised ; it was what would be called pretty good in England; the butcher had the American flag stuck over his stall. j4pril 4. — Took a walk to the race-ground, a new- cleared piece of land, with a tavern erected on it, kept by the proprietor, who gave a silver cup to be run for, to attract customers ; six horses started, some pretty good ones ; a great number of men and boys of the work- ing classes, and apprentices, throwing quoits, bowling, shooting at marks, pitch and hustle, &c. and gambling in the booths; but only five or six females on the course. d2 ?>C) INQUIRIES OF /tpril 12. — There are English thorn hedges on two farms near, which are badly taken care of, and are just coining on the leaf. Apple and other trees out, and cherries in blossom ; saw some green peas fit to stick. The mocking birds begin to sing, they are about the size of a thrush, with notes very similar ; I cannot dis- tinguish the imitative powers which gave them their name. I have seen a number of black and other snakes, the former as nimble as weasels. Coughs and colds are not half so usual as in England ; I have not felt one until now ; had a bad one on leaving London, as likewise had several of the ship's crew, but they left us the first day we got to sea, as the sailors had foretold. April 20. — Changeable weather ; thermometer some- times at 45, then again up to near 70 ! House-flies get busy, and dance their merry meanders near the ceiling. Cockchafers buz around you by thousands when walk- ing out of town in an evening. Trees getting into full leaf; rye will soon be in the ear ; the people ploughing, sowing, &c. busily ; oats coming up and grass gi'ov/ing. Martins and swallows here some days, the former much larger than those in England, and of the colour of a starling, with a note not dissimilar. April 22. — Guns firing at Fort M'Henry ; saw some field-pieces and artillery-men ranged round, by beat of drum, the monument erected in memory of those who fell at the battle of Northpoint, in the late war. The Americans, when in company with Englishmen, are fond of introducing the last war into conversation, as if it was over but yesterday, it being also a continual theme in their newspapers ; the women are particularly warm on the subject, and will recount the plundering* . AN EMIGRANT. m and burnings of their coasts by the British, with great animation and indignation ; and if you answer them it was in retaliation for plunderings and burnings in Canada, they will positively deny it ; so prejudiced and ignorant are they kept of the true circumstances of the (;a8e by an interested public press. The Baltimoreans pride themselves on the determined and successful de- fence of their city, when attacked and bombarded by the British, yet acknowledged it was perfect madness in the latter to make the attempt with only 7,000 r;ien, while the place was defended by 30,000, and its neigh- bourhood well fortified. There are two monuments built of marble; the one I have mentioned elegantly adorned with emblems, and the other a large one, nearly finished, to the memory of General Washington. Marble is plentiful ; some of the best houses have steps to their doors and window-sills made of it; I am in- formed it is brought down the Susquehanna river. The evenings are very short ; it is, after sunset, almost imme- diately dark, and the further south, of course, the more so, as the sun rises and sets more vertical and perpen- dicular, and consequently, is sooner from the horizon. .i/)n7 28.— Thermometer 72. Walked up Federal Hill — a high hill opposite the wharfs, on a neck of land (on the point of which Fort M*Henry is built) where signals are given of vessels coming u^ the Bay, which can be seen more than twenty miles. Rye in the ear ; clover and grass growing; white-thorn in blossom; fields green and scenery delightful where a few weeks ago the ground was bare, and looked barren and wild, so quick is vegetation here. I went on board a new small steam boat, with the paddles placed behind, built 38 INQUIRIES OF Hi on purpose to navigate the rapids of the Susquehanna river ; it will not draw more than two feet water when loaded. A number of Irish and Scotch clearing the bottoms of the wharfs with horses and machines, and making new ones. Americans here do but little of the laborious work ; what is not done by slaves and free blacks is generally done by Europeans ; the slaves grow less in number yearly in this State, as agents are sta- tioned to buy up all they can for the sugar plantations at New Orleans. May 1. — Fine, cool, pleasant, English-like weather: people all flocking into the country on parties of plea- sure, called Maying; soldiers out, being reviewed, shooting at targets for silver cups, &c. '^ May 7. — Very hot day, thermometer 82 in my room ; came on some thunder and rain, which made it cooler. On drinking a little cold water this morning it struck a chill over me; a fit of ague came on, and after- wards a strong fever, vhich forced me to bed. A num- ber of people yearly lose their lives in this hot climate, by drinking cold water. It is best, after drinking, to keep up perspiration by walking or some other exercise, or take a little spirits with it. May 8. — Thermometer sunk to 68 ; to-day 14 de- grees colder than yesterday. The fever took by drink- ing cold water yesterday continues, and has thrown a painful humour into one of my feet. May 18. — Fine pleasant day, not too warm, thermo- meter 72; thunder storm last night. Wheat coming on the ear a month earlier than in England. Saw at market to-day ripe wild-strawberries, green currants, and gooseberries ; green peas Is. Sd. peck, cabbages 1^. AN EMIGRANT. 30 to each, and pretty good lamb at 4d. per lb. I have been thinking of going back into the Western States, and have inquired after waggons to send my trunks by. Saw one from Wheeling, on the Ohio river, and one from the State of Tennasee, back of Kentucky. Their horses are generally strong, like our largest coach horses, and in good condition. Carriage to Pittsburgh is 7s. lOd. per 100 lbs., 240 miles; a good road, I am told, all the way, on which regular stage coaches nm. May 21. — Fine and. pleasant, thermomete** 74, I had almost engaged with a waggon for taking my trunks to the west, with an intention of going to Birk- beck's Settlement, but a carpenter from the west arrived here yesterday, and is now lodging in the house I am in. Says he has been sick (ill) out there, and the country generally is unhealthy ; there is hardly a house but has one or more sick, and otherwise thinks it a poor place for a person without a family. Pork Id. per lb., and labourer's wages 6«. 9d. per week only. May 25. — Bright hot day, thermometer 87 in my bed-room, the windows all up. In the custom-house, 83; came on a thunder gust, when it sunk to 76. Yesterday was Whit-Monday ; nobody at work ; horse racing and country parties were the order of the day. Took a long ramble southwards into the country, over a bridge 600 yards long, thrown across a creek or arm of the Bay, for horses and foot-men. The bright glowing atmosphere ; the fragrant breeze over the un- dulating little inclosures; trees, shrubs, blossoms, and green grass, the latter of which will soon be ready for the scythe; — elegant houses peeping through the wavering trees on the brows of the little hills, and a 40 INQUIRIES OF large expanee of water, where the wild ducks were carelessly swimming, and the fishermen tending their calling in various directions along the Bay, its banks adorned with fields of grain; crickets singing, birds chirping, and other objects, would have been enchant- ing to a mind at ease. On my return, I drank most delicious water at one of the city springs ; there are several of them in the place truly elegant, with clean, neat inclosures, and a person to attend each to prevent nuisances. Water is the general drink here for quench- ing thirst, and no one that has never been out of our cool climate can conceive its delicious taste in a hot one. May 27. — Fine bright pleasant day, thermometer 78. After looking over the newspapers at the reading room at 'Change, I took another ramble northward, which I thought the finest part I had yet seen ; but the glowing brightness of the sun, and the natural beauty ~^ a fine May day may have heightened the scene. Tl ound, which appeared rich, rises into little undulating ridges, with vales between, covered with luxuriant clover and grass. Indian com, ancle high, and several gardens better cultivated than any I had before seen, with neat liouses and orchards attached. Returned through some barren woods, where there were plenty of huckle or hurtle berries, and wild flowers. May 28. — Very hot again, thermometer 86, Been eastward to-day from the city ; wheat in full ear, apples of the size of crabs, but likely to be few, the frosts having killed their blossoms: there were great quan«* titles last year, and very fine, at from 1«. le^. to 2«. 3dL per bushel. The water in the Bay is as warm nearly as new milk. Some green clover cut and brought to AN EMIORANT. «1 market, and told at O^t/. a bundle; green peas 1«. a peck^ full and getting old. A young Scotchman, from Canada, here, as boarder and lodger, having put him- self apprentice to a shipwright, to have 13«. Od. per week wages first year, and 22s. 6d. the second, to board himself. He speaks very highly of Upper Canada as to climate and soil, the kindness and hospitality of its inhabitants, the cheapness and goodness of land, with little or no taxes. He resided there four years as a potash manufacturer, but left it some time ago on ac- count of the low price of that article in the English market, and has been rambling through the States since. On a farm occupied by an Englishman, I saw some Indian com planted in continued rows, which looked very fine, and also some transplanted beets; and a field of fine white wheat, ^hort in the straw and ear, but plump and thick on the ground; and some rye whose ears were very long. Maryland has the cha- racter of growing wheat of the best quality in the Union, and Baltimore for manufacturing the best flour. Great quantities of fine linen shirts made up in Bal- timore for the South American market ; women getting only one shilling each for their making. The South American trade benefits the States much, and the en- terprising inhabitants promptly avail themselves of its advantages. June 4. — Rather cold day, thermometer 67. In England it would be thought warm, such a difference does use and comparison make. On reading the papers at 'Change, I see in England, that nothing but forming companies and speculations are the order of the day, some to work gold and silver mines, Sec. in South Ame- 42 INQUIRIES OF rica, cut a canal across the Isthmus of Darien, and join the P?.cific with the Atlantic, c'c. firo. Here they t^e also, everywhere, cutting canals and forming compa- nies ; going to commence one from the river Ohio to Lake Erie. A company is also forming to cut one from the Chesapeak to that river. The diiferent States appear a little jealous of each other's prosperity, which acts as a stimulant to outdo the rest in all improve- ments to attract trade, &c. June 7. — Fine and very hot, thermometer 87. I am told it is sometimes 100. Received the long-wished-for letter, and the news of more adverse fortune ; there- fore it is time to he doing something. I immediately determined to go to New York, and should nothing offer there, to Albany, or perhaps onward to Upper Canada, to which latter place I had turned my attention ri late, in consequence of the information I had re- ceived from the two young men before -mentioned, viz., that Canada was healthy, the climate good, and the people hospitable and friendly ; and, on the other hand, I had been informed Ohio, and the western States, were too hot and unhealthy, and the produce of land, &c. too low in price. But to me there is another and by far stronger motive for preferring Upper Canada to the States. In the former I shall enjoy, as a British subject, every privilege and advantage of the British constitution, without its burdens, and harassing and restrictive imposis. In the States, it I become not a citizen, and take the oath of allegiance, I cannot hold a heritable property ; iu fact, I should, as an alien, be treated with suspicion, if not insult; and to abjure allegiance to all other governments, and particularly AN EMIGRANT. 41 •!;' to the British (as their oath runs), I think no person with any feeling or spirit could, under any circum- stances, i^Aihmit to, while the samp advantages could be had without it. June 8. — Very fine and very warm, thermometer 90 in my sleeping loom. I never recollect its being so hot in England, still there is a pleasant breeze near the water. Have been disposing of part of my luggage, intending to go by the steam-boat to Philadelphia in a few days. The discipline of the common schools here appears to be very bad, but I believe it is the parents' fault in not allowing the tutor to correct their children, or at least very little ; indeed they appear to be under too little control, even to their parents, through the principles of democracy perhaps. June 10. — Still hot, thermometer 92, but a brisk wind. Vinegar and water, sweetened with molasses, is much drank in this hot weather, and called switchel, or "Yankee beverage." A Yankee is a native of New England, and is synrnimous to a Yorkshire bite in England. Drank a glass of lemonade at market, cooled with ice, \d. ; smaller glasses, \d. When walk- ing in the heat of the day without an umbrella to keep off tlie sun, I perspire excessively, which affects my head, and otherwise makes me uncomfortable. Stepped Into Peale's Museum, the proprietor an Englishman : there were a great number of stuffed animals and dried birds, but all of them in a liipid state of decay through insects, for the want of proper knowledge how to pre- serve them, I suspect. Mr. P.'s loquacity informed me how he had duped the natives, by the introduction of a tune into his organ, ctdled the Berkshire fencibles, \ 44 INQUIRIES OF as a new tuiiC) by the name of the Baltimore volunteers, which gave him a great run. June 11 and 12. — Very hot, thermometer 82 at sun rise, and 99 in the afternoon. June 13. — Cloudy and cooler, thermometer 88. CHAPTER III. Journey from Baltimore to Buffalo and Canada^ in the Steam-hoaty to the Head of the Bay. — By Land to Philadelphia, — Manners, Produce, and Cultivation of the Country. — Further Proceedings. June 14. — At five in the afternoon I started with my luggage, and after a pleasant run, arrived at French Town, at one o'clock this mom ; till dark it was plea- sant, being covered from the sun by an awning, and hardly a ruffle on the water. After eating a cracker or two (biscuits), and drinking some iced water, we turned in till we came to shore, where we found the stages waiting, into which we hurried after fixing our trunks behind. Coaches in America are like strong gentlemen's carriages, or hackney coaches, carrying no outside pas- sengers. The road being quite still, and the sides of the coach open, (they are of leather, and can be opened or shut at pleasure), I amused myself by observing the motions of the numerous *^ fire bobs " (flies) flashing in the air like candles. Arrived at Newcastle on the AN EMIGRANT. 4$ Delaware, at day break, eighteen miles from our dis- embarkation. A caiia! is now cutting across, near here, irom the Chesapeak Bay. Saw some kind of hedges, like thorn, on our route, and some poor land and poor crops. Arrived at Philadelphia between nine and ten o'clock ; took breakfast on board, charge 2«. dd. — dear but excellent living. The Americans, I believe, live rather luxuriantly as to variety, in towns, and generally. In Baltimore, the ship carpenter with whom I boarded, hid a roast turkey once or twice a-week, fowls, beef steaks, ham, sausages, and a kind of '' pud- ding," similar to the latter; pies, soup, fish, &c. A variety of the above formed every meal, and generally at least three kinds of vegetables, with coffee or tea at breakfast and supper. Breakfast at eight, dine at twelve, and sup at sunset in summer, and six o'clock in winter. Bread baked less, and meat generally cooked more, than is customary in England. Too many of the Americans (and also emigrants) are whiskey drinkers to excess ; and though they are seldom seen drunk, when on a "scale," or drinking frolic, are often seen near half-and-half, as i is termed in England; yet rarely exhibit the boisterous hilarity and noisy mirth, by singing, &c., which is so familiar to Johnny Bull in that state. Good rye whiskey 1*. to Is. 2d. pei gallon, corn ditto less. There are brewers in every town lat sell mild new beer; and some old strong beer, brought from Albany, to be had at the taverns, whicii is sold as dear as in England. The Delaware, up which wo have been sailing, is a noble large river, and as fin( oenerj on its banks as I have yet seen in America. Through heat of the v lier the water is steaming, milk warm. ill I r i ? 46 INQUIRIES OF Arrive in Philadelphia, a place the more interesting for the generous and nohle character of its worthy founJer ; one may easily discern the sound judgment of Penn, in his choice of a site for building the city. Far enough up the river to he out of danger of surprise from an enemy's fleet ; on ground sufficiently high and dry for health, with an easy slope to the water for convenience of trade, &c., and the country round rich and fertile. There are several English families leaving hereabouts, I am informed, for the province of Upper Canada, to procure land of government. Took a walk into the country ; the soil in the vicinity of the town is a strong sandy loam ; saw some excellent crops of wheat, barley, and rye, partly lodged or laired. Wheat will be twelve or fourteen days before ripe, and rye eight or ten. People busy with their hay and clover, which are pretty good crops, but they have stood till they are too old before cutting, which appears to be a too general prac- tice where I have been ; but the heat of the climate, and, consequently, quick growth and ripening of the grass, necessarily prevent the whole being cut down in proper order. Engaged board and lodging at the New England Hotel at 2*. Sd. per day. Nothing particularly striking in the town ; no elegant public springs or mo- numents, &c., that I could see, as at Baltimore ; streets not so spacious, but more regular and compact than the latter. The country too flat for show, the finest object being the river and its opposite shore, about half a mile across, with a little island in the middle of it. Steam and team boats continually crossing and re- crossing. They are double boats, or two placed side by side) the paddles working between, with a deck across AN EMIGRANT. 47 both, to take waggons, carriages, &c. You may drive into them seated in any vehicle, and out on the opposite side on coming to shore, without the least danger. A large bell is rang every time they make the shore, stop about ten minutes, ring again and off. June 15. — Fine and moderately hot, thermometer 83, some few clouds occasionally give relief by interrupting the rays of the sun. Whilst walking into the country and about the city saw some fine orchards and large garden£> which are kept in much better order, and also the farms, than they are generally in Maryland. Or- chards appear to bear well every where, even on the poor thin soils, although the trees on such are, of course, not large. The markets are well supplied with meat of a good quality generally. Beef and pork good, veal excellent and white. Kidney beans Is. l^d. per peck. Plenty of young ^-^tatoes, but hardly large enough vet. I have not seen any Dutch turnips. Great quantities of strawbernes and cherries, the last rather dear but good, 2id. per lb. 1 recognise more of the English features here than at Baltimore. A considerable num- ber of Quakers, whose clothing is less formal than their brethren in England. Have been introduced to some English families, of which there are a considerable number in this place. June 16. — Started at six o'clock this morning, in a steam-boat, for New York; landed at Bristol; then twenty-six miles by stage, nine passengers in each, the luggage behind, jolted along a rough road, smothered with dust, through Trenton, Princeton, Queenston, and Kingston (in the state of New Jersey) ; the last three towns the only relics of monarchy left. Stage horses 48 INQUIRIES OF pretty good ; they change them quick. Taverns slovenly conducted, like most other common ones in the country. Took steam at Brunswick again, down a small river; dined on board, charge high, Ss. i\d.f to be sure we lived well, were the meals not so hurried (bell rings, — a rush — eat — off in a few minutes), fish, flesh, and fowl, puddings, pies and tarts, brandy, &c. &c. ; the fare was very low, through opposition, 196 miles (26 of them by stage), luggage included, for lis. 2d. only. A gentle- man on board, from Carolina, who had a number of pieces of native gold from that state, where so much has of late been found on the surface of the soil, and in water courses ; one of the pieces, he said, was worth twenty-eight dollars, very fine, and in a shape it might be supposed to form, on being dropped into sand in a melted state. There is something striking in the views of this county, arising probably from the glowing bright- ness and warmth of the atmosphere, aided by a wide expanse of water, surrounded by woodland scenery. 1 was led to this observation by the beautiful prospects presented on approaching New York. A bright serene air, and cloudless sky — a gentle breeze — ships sailing, others at quarantine — fishing-boats here, steam-boats there. Houses rising every minute, as we approach, on each hand, on the eminences and slopes, intersected with woodland scenery, and enclosures with cattle and sheep grazing in them. In front the city, with its spires — the masts of the numerous shipping along the wharfs, all presented to the sense of vision nearly at once, caused a most pleasing sensation. An American passes such a scene and the dullest objects with equal indifference. Indifference and shrewdness are the most AN EMIORANT. 49 striking features in the character of an American. They are never intoxicated with joy at success, nor depressed to despondency ; defeated in one object, they are plan- g and calculating on the success of another ; never at a loss for an expedient; generally content, if not cheerful ; never lose their confidence, or are thrown oft' their guard by passion ; this nonchalance arises probably from equality in circumstances and much intercourse by travelling. But to return, — we landed, and after some search for lodgings, took my tmnks to a tavern in Albany-street; ^\d. for lodging, and Is, Id. for each meal ; five beds in the room I sleep in, occupied by civil and respectable decent-looking young men, who gave me not the least molestation. No suspicion was attached to going to and from the bed-room at any time of the day, which I think speaks very favourably of the honesty of the Americans. June 17. — Fine, pleasant day, thermometer 78. On seeing an advertisement in a newspaper, for an overseer to superintend a plantation in a southern state, I made application, but found several applicants before me — " Still I think I shall succeed. But still am disappointed." Had a walk through the town and vicinity : it is situated on the south-east end Mahatten Isla^id, which is appa- rently about two miles across, and several in length. North or Hudson River runs on one side, and East River on the other, at the end of which they join. A very great number of vessels^ of all kinds and sizes, lying at the wharfs on both sides of the town, and a great deal of business going forward, more like London M ( 50 INQUIRIES OF than any other place I have seen. Broadway is a fine street, as are also some others. Markets are well sup- plied, hut appear to he much crowded. At the back of the town there are evident marks of an overwhelming flood. On the highest parts of the island the soil is washed off the rocks, and huge stones laid bare, or tumbled together in the ravines. Another such a place near Trenton, on high land. Almost all the roads lead- ing to a town in America are full of houses on their sides, called "taverns," or "liquor," "beer and cake," or " gi-ocery," stores. My notice was attracted to-day by one with a small kitchen garden before it, with a few benches for seats, with Waterloo Gardens in printed capitals over the gate ! as a magnet, I suppose, to at- tract tlie contents of Johnny Bull's purse. New York is a place of great trade, and will still increase, it is so well situated. Open at all times to the sea — at the con- fluence of several fine rivers, and the canal from Albany to Lake Erie greatly augments it. The state of New York is the richest in the Union, and the climate the most genial and moderate for Europeans. The price of wheat, flour, &c. here, at Baltimore and Philadelphia, are nearly the same. As building in summer is always going on, house-carpenters, brick-makers, and brick- layers, generally find employnr ent almost anywhere, except in the depth of winter, at 4*. 6d. to 7*. or 8«. per day ; also shoemakers, tailors, and persons well ac- quainted with any useful trade, may meet with employ in some place or other. I determined to proceed to Albany, and thence, if nothing offers, to Upper Canada, by canal. A farmer would cut a sorry figure in a store amongst the Yankees, and there appears to be but AN EUIORANT. 51 few other situations vacant, and that occupation un- certain. June 18. — O): board the steam tug-boat (a boat tugged along by a steam-boat) for Albany ; the fare vas one dollar, or 4«. 6d^. one trunk included, 1«. \\d. for the other; in the steam-boat the fare is liigher. The passengers consist principally of farmers, farmers' wives, and trades-people, two or three of the former are *' squires," as they are termed (justices of the peace). With this company I pass as a Yankee ! Like the rest of the passengers I carry provisions for twenty-four hours, and half a pint of rye whiskey (2^ only), a little of which, I find, with water, agrees with me better this hot weather than water alone, or even beer. -nmft June 1 9, Sunday. — Warm last night and pleasant to- day. The Hudson river, up which we are travelling, is a noble stream running between high romantic hills and mountains on each hand. The Kaatskill moun- tains are the most conspicuous, making a grand appear- ance with the clouds flying far below their tops along their sides. The Chancellor Livingstone, and another noble steam-boat, two-deckers, past us down ; they are really floating palaces. The steam-boats are larger, and more elegantly fitted up, than any I have seen in the Thames ; indeed they are carried to excess, more fitted for voluptuaries than for cool, calculating Republicans. Arrive in Albany, and stop at a tavern kept by an Hibernian, for the night June 20. — Finding \ am not likely to procure any situation hereabouts, I have determined to continue westward by the canal (here pronounced canol), in company with an itinerant bookselling merchant, who e2 I I 52 INQUIRIES OF is going to Canada. He put his books, and I my trunks, on board a trading boat, and walked on a nearer way, to see the country and save expense, till the boat should overtake us. Fare, something less than le^. a mile for myself and one trunk, and 3«. ^d. for the other, 75 lb., to Lockport, near 300 miles. The boats have relays of horses, and go night and day. Albany is an old, large, and improving place, with but indif- ferent land about it, yet the trade by the Erie and east canals ensures great prosperity in trade. Travelled twenty>five miles to>day, and stopped for the night at a plain Dutch farmer's tavern, seven miles above Sche- neotada, on the flats of the Mohawk river, on which, to ueatly the whole extent, the Dutch are settled. Flats are what would be termed meadows in England ; but there is this difference, in England the meadows in general are subject tu floods, but here in America there are but few rivers that overflow their banks, their banks bemg most high, and till the land is generally cleared, the woods and swamps preserve the heavy rains from running ofi* in torrents. The flats of the Mohawk river in many places are bounded on each side by high barren hills and mountains, covered with scnib timber, and brush-wood. The Mohawk flats are considered some of the very richest land in the Union ; they are settled nearly, if not entirely, by Dutch. It is a fact rather singular, that the Dutch (as farmers, which most of them are) thrive best of all settlers ; the reason is ob- vious; they are a close-living, hard-working, frugal people, and, what most ensures success, they alwa3rs settle in companies, and generally on the richest land. Corn, grain, &c. looking pretty well, and the forms in AN BMIORANT. 53 irren and tolerably good order. Green peas just coming in ; they, and other crops, are three weeks later than in Mar}*- land. Heard the first whip-poor-will, and the first bull frog, the latter I at first took to be the bellowing of a bull at a distance. ^-r June 21. — Very warm to-day, the people say hot; the high hills keep off the cold breezes from these low cou- fmed grounds. Walked thirty-two miles to-day in com- pany with the merchant, a curious old bachelor of forty- five, and disciple of Malthus. The canal, which runs all up the flats near the river, has a good deal of traffic on it. The boatmen, in general, civil, and even re- spectable, a contrast to some of that class in England ; but a good number of them are farmers, who carry their own produce to market, or leave their farms at the least busy time and go as captains pnd mates to the trading boats. Some elegantly fitted up packet-boats, drawn by three horses on a trot, pass us to-day, full of fine ladies and gentlemen. There is the same easy indif- ference, or nonchalance^ in the American females as I before remarked in the males. Some of them are fine figures, with handsome features, and pretty good colour, yet but little of the play of the soul. You may admire their handsome forms, and enjoy their company unem- barrassed and with corresponding indifference, without being in any great danger of having a more tender passion excited. Should much disagreement arise be- tween husband and wife, they generally separate, and a newspaper is seldom seen without advertisements respecting them, warning not to trust, &c. Vro^xi June 22. — Passed through what are called the Ger- man flats; a pretty well settled country and good land, I' I « 64 INQUIRIES OF where tho boat overtook us in which we hrd left our higgage, into whiph wc got, where there were twelve or fourteen passengers already, several of them women, who occupy all the beds and fore cabin, so we are forced to bo content with the body of the boat, and spread the blankets (which are plentiful) on the pack- ages of merchandise to sleep, which is not very dis- agreeable this warm weather. It has been remarked that Englishmen generally are the most particular and fastidious about such trifles on travelling in this coun- try. The boats are one-third wider than those used on canals in England, and covered their whole length, leaving sufficient room for standing erect in them. Though so far back in the woods, the people are very similar in their manners and behaviour to those in and near towns; generally civil, some polite and intelligent; no awkward rudeness or embarrassment in their beha- viour f no provincialisms, and but few peculiarities in their language. All speak the English language plainly, and mostly correct, with some few exceptions, chiefly in pronunciation, which they have generally adopted, as improvements or correction^ of Walker — thus, in engine, acofTif excellent, and some others, the accent is placed on the second syllable. Thames is by them pronounced l^aymes. June 23. — The canal appears about three-fourths the size of the Grand Jimction in England. The bridges are nearly all of wood, and too low, not allowing a person to sit upright on a boat passing them. The canal is shut up in winter by frost. The water is let through the locks by a much quicker and easier method than what I have seen in England, by merely turning AN EMIGRANT. W ft lever about onu- third oi' u circle. There are sovcrnl companies that run "lincii" of bouts regularly; tlie '* packet line " iitted up chiefly for passengers, drawn by three horses, a boy riding one of them and keeping them on a trot; charge 2^ per mile, board, Sic. in- cluded. " Pilot line/' " merchant line," and others, carry both passengers and merchandise, drawn by two horses each, go night and day, (GO or 70 miles in 24 hours) and charge Id. per mile, and board yourself, and 4s. 6d. per 100 lb. weight of luggage, and merchan- dise, from Albany to Uuffaloe, 296 miles. Towns are much called after Greek, Roman, and other ancient names — as Rome, Troy, Camillus, MauUnes, Galen, Utica, Syracuse, &c. At Salina, near the latter place, are extensive salt works. A great many buildings made to evaporate the salt water by the sun, with sliding roofs, and others for evaporation by boiling. The salt sells for about Is. 2d. per bushel, and 2s, id. per cwt, very good quality of fine and coarse sor^. Houses springing up like mushrooms ; here and there a young village or town. The canal crosses the skirts of some small lakes, and extensive open marshes, and through some smart towns. Utica, one of the largest and prettiest, has two or three churches, and other places of worship, with large and neat houses, some few of brick, but the greater part of frame, and painted in various shades of yellow and stone colouring, which gives them a gay and lively appearance. In some of these new towns, the streets are as yet only ridged, or " tumpiked," in the centre ; others are gravelled, but none, I believe, yet paved. Land worth from 6 to 25 or 30 dollar^ per acre, or from S0«. to 71* lOs, Cows \f ' iii m ;|p ^!-|Hi W li if m M 56 INQUIRIES OF from 21. 4s. to 41. 10«. erch; sheep 49. 6d. to 9«; hones from 4/. 10«. to 16 or 17/. June 24. — A cloudy, pleasant day. An agreeable tray of travelling, by boat ; you can sit and view the varied scenes cf the country through which you pass, write or read, lie down at your ease, or get out and walk for exercise when you please. Passed by a small plot of ground planted with hops, which looked pretty well. Peojrfe busy ploughing between their com, or maize, (wheat, rye, barley, &c. are here universally called graia). The people ever since I left Baltimore are all '^guessers" and "calculators," and on asking a question, and it be not understood, they say — "how, sir?" or "how is that, sir?" or " Tfhich ?" or " which is it ?" :* June 25. — Passed through Rochester, situated on the Geaasui: river, near some large falls of water, which work a number of flour mills and other machinery. This place is well situated for trade, and has thriven remarkably. There are no locks between Rochester and Lockport, a distance of 65 miles ; nor is the country much settled, being too wet and flat. Lockport is a place of some business ; five of the locks rise 60 or 80 feet up a rock of blackish hard etone ; they are finished ofi*in a neat, not to say elegant style. People in some parts of this western country appear to act under little restraint with regard to the duties of a Christian Sab- bath ; fi3r although no stores (shops) are open, I saw along the canal, in several places, people loading boats, oartmg, &c., and a woman in the boat knitting all day without exciting any notice or remark. June 26. — Walked the five miles portage, and gave Is. l^d. for the carriage of my trunks. A number of r AN EMIGRANT. 57 people, chiefly Irish, blasting the rocks, and clearing out the bottom of the canal. Slept pt a log^tayem to-night for the first of the kind, in the bar room, which had a hole through the roof as a substitute for » chim- ney ! Paid S^d, for my bed, which is the general price in the western country if two sleep in a bed, but mostly double that if alone. Artm June 27. — Arrived at Black Rock, a large and smart village on the Niagara river, 24 miles from Lockport, and two from BufTaloe, and nearly opposite Fort Erie, in Canada, at the head of the Niagara river. After seeing my trunks safe, I walked to Bufi'aloe, a great shipping port for the Western States, situate on or near the Upper Lakes. BufTaloe was burnt in the war, and some other places, by the British, in retaliation for the burning and plundering the Canada side by the Ame- ricans. It is now rebuUt, and is a thriving place. The wind being brisk and westward, drives down the lake the big rolling waves, which break on the pier and beech with a thundering noise. Returned to Black- Rock, where the ferry is kept, to cross into Canada, it being the narrowest part of the river (near a mile across) and rather rapid, and which is made more so by a pier run in to it on the American side. The water is clear, and is generally used by those who live on the banks. The charge at this ferry is 1^. l^d. There is no town on the Canada side, only two or three stores or shops, (" stores" may be distinguished by — dry goods, stores, hardware, or general, the last keep an assortment of every thing), a mill, a small church, a few private houses, three taverns or inns, all having good accom- modation, to one of which I went for the night. J fc ao i?rQUiRlES OP <9i)K liflrlMJiiik* f»m aO :»r Tffnrri V «i ,toof MijimUi^ 'tifhk m ;%lOfhiB aoid* 10 ©wi vim- ftr, '^'•'-'TiJ bfll* tBidiq iuodiw 3 ro'"" ^ ^oife aoDtikf gfiiki... CHAPTER IV. 'wi 1*'" vflr^'Ti ■'■'■-r'- ■4 Arrivai in Uppei' Canada — Comparison of the State of each side of Lake Erie — Introduction to Col. Talbot — ^6 Inspection of Lots of Land — Engagement with him — h His Establishment — Modes of Cultivation^Natural i^iiij^roducef and Various Places, noticed, ^^"JUm 28.-1 am once again under the jurisdiction of the Britigh government and laws, and therefore feel myself no longer an alien. Though the Americans, in general, are civil and friendly, still an Englishman, himself as a stranger amongst them, is annoyed and disgusted by their vaunted prowess in the late puny war, and superiority over all other nations. They as- sume it as a self-evident fact, that "the Americans surpass all others in virtue, wisdom, valour, liberty, government, and every other excellence ! " Yet much as the Americans deserve ridicule for this foible, still I admire the energy and enterprise every where exhi- bited, and regret the apathy of the British government with regard to the improvement of this province. A single glance down the banks of the Niagara tells on which side the most efficient government has resided. On the United States' side large towns springing up ; the numerous shipping, with piers to protect them in harbour, coaches rattling along the road, and trade evidenced by waggons, carts and horses, and people on If m AN EMIGRANT. 59 il> foot, in various directions. On the Canadian side, although in the immediate vicinity, an older settlement, and apparently better land, there are only two or three stores, a tavern or two, a natural harbour without piers, but few vessels, and two temporary landing places. Farm houses there are all over the district, nearly one on each farm, and probably the farmers, &c. doing very well. A town cannot be built, as government retain the land for fortifications. Trade, there cannot be much, till the upper part of the province is more settled. Inquired of two Englishmen, who had considerable farms, if they wanted a person to superintend them, or knew of any person who did ; but no, every persoii looks after his own business in this country. The land is a stifiish black earth, on a rock several feet under the surface : it is excellent for wheat, clover, and grass, and is chiefly settled and owned by Dutch from the States. Left my trunks, and travelled down the level banks of the wide Niagara river ; the roaring sound of the Great Falls broke on my ear at twelve or fourteen miles' dis- tance. This wonder of the world, although it does not come up to the idea I had formed of it by reading travellers' descriptions, is yet truly grand ; the immense body of water which accumulates in the Great Lakes above, from a thousand creeks and rivers, is here con- centrated. From Chippawa it rushes down a sharp rapid, dashing over huge stones and broken rock (which, for a moment, appear to arrest its impetuous course), near a mile before it comes to the precipice, where it is converged to a comparatively narrow space, when it pours down over the rock in a sheet, with great force and noise, amongst the masses of broken rock in the F P 60 INQUIRIES OP gulph beloW) forcing up the spray to a great height, at a distance looking like steam rising from an enormous boiling cauldron fixed in the bowels of the earth ; some- times, in clear weather it condenses into a thick cloud, and is seen more than sixty miles. The sun shining on the misty spray, fonns beautiful rainbows. The water, on rolling from the abyss below, down the comparatively narrow but deep chasm it has formed, is white with air bubbles, similar to the effervescence of soda water* There is a smaller Fall on the American side, running round a piece of land called Goat Island. There are occasional instances of people in boats crossing the river above the rapids, venturing too near them ; and, unable to stem the rapidity of the current, are consequently forced over the Falls. There are three large and elegant hotels, one on the American and two on the Canada side ; the latter standing on a small rise of ground, on the bank of the river, 150 or 200 feet above the top of the falls, commanding a fine view of the rapids and river above. Met some Indians to-day on horseback ; saw numbers of them at BufTaloe yesterday, some in almost every store, and sitting and loitering about the doors ; numbers of them wear large ear-rings. Saw one with a wooden leg, and another with one arm: many of them at a little distance have the appearance of gipsies ; their colour and hair being nearly the same, but features and dress dilSerent. The features of the Indians rather more broad, and have stronger expres- sion, more grave in their manner, and less fire in their eyes ; both equally straight in their persons and active, which arises probably through intermitting exertions and absence of hard labour. Walked on towards Lake ■\V AN AMERICAN. «i i.^ Ontario, along a nearly level country, for seven miles, through two small villages, and came to the edge of a mountain three or four hundred feet high, overlooking a considerable extent of country on both sides the river, and the Lake Ontario. The village of Queenston is situated at the foot of this mountain or ridge, where the Falls evidently have been, seven miles from the present one ; the river here is amazingly deep at the foot of the mountain. This village is situated at the head of the Ontario navigation, and though small has been a very thriving place, but now in a state of decay ; the town of Niagara, seven miles below, at the mouth of the Niagara river, having engrossed all the trade, excepting th^' forwarding of merchandise up, and produce down from the upper part of the province. Queenston is in a pleasant and very healthy situation, and the country pretty well cleared back ; the houses are in a state of dilapidation. There is the small but neat and healthy village of St. David's, two miles back of hence. A steam-boat lay at the wharf, which runs to various parts of Lake Ontario. ' ' ' ^^ June 30. — Returned again through Chippawa to th^ Ferry. People busy getting up their hay; crops are light, through the unusual drought :• great plenty of cherries along the road side, in the orchards, of which every passer-by takes what he can eat without let oi* hindrance, or its being thought a trespass. Two or three stages run between the Falls and the Ferry, during the summer months. '**"** ''''^** ' July 1. — Stopping with a farmer, a native of Canada, till I can look about for a situation. Cherries are abun- dant this year, as also fine large red currants, some of '!' \ \\ % \ \ G2 INQUIRIES OF which they preserve, and dry others. Wild gooseberries and currants near the woods, but not very tempting. Wild raspberries plenty, and tolerably good. Plenty of grapes also, but not yet ripe. Saw a number of dead fish along the beach, one upwards of twenty pounds weight, killed against the rocks by the violence of the waves in a storm. Also a few of the only species of a duck that breeds here, called shell-duck ; they live on fish, and are not very good eating ; one of them had thirty-five young ones. July 4. — Fine and warm, or rather hot. The Ame- ricans celebrating their independence by firing guns, cannon, &c. Grass rather a light crop, through the uncommon dryness of the season, not having been any rain of consequence for seven or eight weeks; still the pastures are not burnt up, nor is the ground one quarter so much cracked as it would have been in Eng- land with the same drought. The dryness of the ground causes the atmosphere to be more heated than usual, yet there has been only two or three days I thought too hot, and in these I was helping the farmer and his son get up some hay without being much inconvenienced, as there is often a fine cool breeze from the lake in hot weather. July 24. — Left the above farmer, who had treated me friendly, and wished me to call on him, and make his house my home, whenever convenient. Travelled ui> the Lake beach, in company with a man from the Talbot settlement, whither I am proceeding to take up a lot of government land. Good walking along tlie white sandy beach, except in a few places round points of land where it is rocky (some of it lime stone), or V AN EMIGRANT. 63 rough with coarse gravel. Travelled thirty-one miles to'day, and stopped at a miserable log tavern to sleep ; my companion having remained behind at a farmer's Uf make some shoes. This part of the province is settled chiefly by Dutch, most of them a sturdy, old fashioned* and honest race of people ; high sand-banks back the beach, covered with pines, juniper, and other ever- green trees and shrubs. Behind these sand-banks are marshes and swamps in some places; in others, and behind the swamps, is a rich black soil on a lime-stone rock; and in places, a considerable quantity of loose stones are scattered over the surface. It has evidently ])een overflown, at some remote period, by the lake. Saw a woman washing on the beach, her family of small children playing around, and rolling on the sand ; her husband looking after the yoke of oxen, that had drawn down on a sled the washing tub and pot to boil the clothes in, &c. This is a common way in dry sea- sons, when good soft water is not to be had near home. 1 passed a remarkably peaked hill to-day, in the fonii of a sugar-loaf, which name it bears ; it is covered with timber to its very top. It is a good sea-mark for sailors on the lake. Some of the people about here have a half Indian appearance ; dirty habits ; sallow, thin, visages, and meanly dressed; living in the woods, surrounded hy swamps, they are half hunter and half farmer. sy July 25. — Walked on for Grand River, or Ouse — " Remote, unfriended, melancholy, slow, Or on the woody banks or beech below. Or onward where the free Canadian boor, Welcomes the houseless stranger to his door." A heavy shower coming on, I took shelter in the Naval I 1 f. ^ ■ I 'I if !| 64 INQUIRIES or Depdt. Several old vessels of war lie sunk in the mouth of the river rotting, and a number of cannon and cannon-balls strewed about the beech. This depdt consists apparently of one well-furnished, low, but rather large house, for the officers, and twelve or four- teen small log-huts as barracks, for about eighteen or twenty soldiers and sailors. There is a small island near called Gull Island, under which is one of the few places on this Lake shipping can run into in safety for anchorage in bad weather. A large tract of rich land on the river is still in possession of the Mohawk In- dians ; saw a party of them to-day at camp under the shade of some trees, making baskets ; they had plenty of fish in their canoe, which they had speared. After leaving Grand River, I passed through eight miles of Indian woodland without a house, and came to Evans' Tavern, one of the best on the Lake banks I am told, though but indifferent; it is kept by an Irishman, a captain of militia, where I stopped for the night. July 26. — Arrive at Paterson's Creek (small rivers and brooks are in America improperly called creeks), the beginning of the Long-Point Settlement. It is a dry sandy soil, thinly wooded with low white oaks, and is what is here termed plains. The land is not very rich, but will bear good crops for several years, and if manured, and plaster (gypsum) applied, of which there is great plenty at Grand river, and is now begin- ning to be used, and a proper rotation of crops intro- duced, it woidd be some of the most useful and valuable land in the province : it is well watered with constant spring streams. On the greater part of these " plains " the settler has only to cut up here and there a little S I I A « I AN EMIGRANT. 65 \ under-brush or shrubs, and girdle the trees (chop a ring round them through the bark to stop the rising of the sap, when they die), when he may put in the plough ; it will require a strong team to break it up the first time, but afterwards can be ploughed with one yoke of oxen, or a " span " of horses. The few trees, which stand twenty or thirty or more yards apart, when killed by girdling, do not in the least injure the crop, nor much inconvenience the ploughing. There are some rather extensive farms hereabouts, which raise (grow) large quantities of rye, com, and buck-wheat, chiefly for distilling, and also wheat, since clover, which it bears remarkably well, and gypsum have been intro- duced. But it is evident their system of management is too deteriorating for this or any other soil. Rye, com, wheat, and oats continually, with only a few peas,, and a little clover intervening, and then but seldom ; when clover is sown, it is too often on the ground in a bad state, lying two or three years and becoming full of grass and rubbish, in which state it is, perhaps, ploughed up for wheat, &c. There is but little fal- lowing of land, nor indeed is it necessary under a pro- per system. Land, if ever so foul, can be easily cleaned with a com crop. There are no tares, turnips, or cabbages, to pulverise and ameliorate the soil, but which I think might be introduced in a small way to advantage ; and although the two latter will not stand all through the winter (except Swedish turnips), yet there is seldom any frost to hurt them till after the middle of December, when they might be put into cellars made in the ground for the purpose. Rape or cole-seed (a small patch of which I have seen looking tolerably well. 1 1 , 'i ! ; ( :,l t I GG INQUiniES OF but evidently sown too late) I believe would answer well on this soil, and some others, for its seed, as oil mills are introduced into the province; I believe it would grow to perfection on new, or rich old land ; in the latter case it might be sown after wheat, rye, barley, or peas, as they are off the ground generally early enough. Sunflowers also have been sown for their seeds for poultry and oil, and 1 think are deserving notice, as they grow remarkably luxuriant, evidently produce a large quantity of seed per acre, and require little trouble in their cultivation. Every person busy getting the harvest in ; good hands for cradling the grain in request, 3*. 4d. in cash, or 4s. 6d. in trade, with board, per day ; there is but little advance of wages given in harvest from other times. Up to the present time almost every payment has been made in trade — that is an exchange of articles oi g-^rain, cattle, or goods from the store (shop). July 29. — Stopped a day or two with an agreeable, respectable working farmer (as they all are in this coun- try) from Nova-Scotia, who wanted to engage me to stop and help him twelve months for the share of one- third of the produce of his farm, and treated as one of the family. He was going to put in (sow) 40 acres of wheat this fall (autumn), and calculated they would produce 1000 bushels, besides other grain and corn ; but I declined. Farmers, captains, and esquires, rich and poor, none think it a disgrace to work, even for each other ; yet, except in hay-time and harvest, there is but little steady work from morn to night. It has been said, that, " in America, if you want any thing done, you must do it yourself," which, generally, is \ AN EMIGRANT. 07 true, as you cannot always hire others ; this is pecu- liarly the case in new settled parts, where every one can get land to himself. This is one reason customs differ from those in England. If you want grist ground, you must take it in your waggon or sleigh to the mill, and even into the mill, and out again when ground ; the same at the distilleries and stores ; goods are seldom delivered even to the door; every person in business acts as if conferring a favour. I had been directed to Colonel Talbot, who has a ; grant of two townships from the government, with a view to having a " lot," and in proceeding to his resi- dence passed through several miles of pine wood to Big Creek, and twelve miles further of wood before coming into " Talbot-street," as it is called, having houses on each side, at about one-fourth of a mile distance from each other, or about eight in a mile, one on each lot of 200 acres. This lower part of Talbot-street is on a bank of sand, or pine ridge, of barren soil. There is some good land on each side of this ridge, but rather flat and swampy. Three parts of the houses are empty, the inhabitants having " cleared out" for better land, I " guess;" — but those that remain say in consequence i of " sickness" (illness). Stop often to get a drink of water, or butter-milk, and inquire about the country. A person is always welcome in every house to rest him- self, and need not hesitate to ask any question, as he will be answered generally without reserve. A stout, jovial, and rather liberal Yankee working miller, who has been in the province three years, overtook me to- day, going to *' draw" land of the Colonel, so we tra- velled on together. On first coming into the wilderness f2 68 INQUIRIES OF it is rather depressing to the spirits ; but the mind soon recovers by the cheerfulness and absence of discontent in the settlers, and the prospect, although at first per- haps slow, yet certain, of growing prosperity. From the two Otter Creeks, and Catfish to Kettle Creek, the land appears pretty good, of sandy and clayey loams, but in some places is much broken by ravines and gulleys. We arrived at the new small village of St Thomas, rather pleasantly situated on the banks of Kettle Creek; it has a church, two taverns, a mill, two stores, and an academy, &c. ; and on July 30th, we arrived at Colonel Talbot's. As the Colonel takes no fee for his trouble in giving out the government land, ond people are con- tinually going to him for information respecting new lots to draw, (choose), as well as exchanging them (sometimes repeatedly) for others, it cannot be sur- prising that he should sometimes assume a severity of manner not natural to him, to prevent vexatious appli- cations. The house in which the Colonel lives is situated on the banks of the lake, upwards of 100 feet high, and commands a fine view of the banks and shore of Lake Erie for twenty miles down, and also the Colonel's Creek, winding through the '* flats" below. The Colonel was not at home when we arrived, but soon returned, and after procuring a list of some vacant lots of land thirty miles above, we proceeded forward from Port Talbot. It may not be unnecessary to inform my readers, that port, and shipping, and the name of a township, and a town, de facto, are not necessarily concomitants in America. We stopped in Ireland at night, five miles from the Colonel's, with a farmer who came from Penn- sylvania, a thriving and comparatively a forehanded AN EMIGRANT. 69 one. After leaving " Ireland," as it is called, we passed through three miles of woods into the " Scotch settlement," the settlers of which have only fifty acres of land each, which was given by the Colonel for their clearing out the street in front of their lots. This street, or road, runs through his two townships, Dunwich and Aldborough, onward to the head of Lake Erie. The Scotch settlers are Highlanders and very hospitable. July 31. — Arrived at Clear Creek, a tine little stream of spring water, arising about two miles from the lake, and one from the street, in the township of Orford. Stayed the night witl?. an Englishman from Northum- berland, who has been here six or seven years. He suffered considerable privations at first, commencing on his lot at the beginning of the winter ; he had first to build a house, and then work out for provisions for the family. He has since built himself another house and bam, dug a well and a cellar, planted an orchard, and cleared forty or fifty acres of land, and is now com- fortably situated and thriving, although having only 30«. or 40«. left on his first arrival. Aug, 2. — Accompanied an Irishman and sons with a conductor into the " Bush " to look at some lots of land, part of which we found both rich and dry, and have taken a note of their numbers. The lots are laid out in parallelograms, or long squares, of 100 or 200 acres each, having an end abutting to a road or street, with small posts bearing their numbers at the corners. I next proceeded towards the township of Howard and Harwich, to view some vacant lots of land, and in my way was hospitably entertained by a new settler, gra- tuitously, although he was indigent; but learning that 70 INQUIRIES OF the land 1 was going to was swampy, returned to Clear Creek. I found musquitoes in this trip, but not so troublesome as I had supposed they would be, and there were also a variety of snakes, all harmless, except the copper-head and rattle-snake ; but it is seldom that persons are bit by these, and old residents do not dread them, as many vegetable antidotes are well known in the woods j in fact, they are acquainted with the name and virtues of every plant, while new comers are years learning the names of trees only. ! • „ ? 14 ,', .,:,;, -■. --■ '.^rV • ^V'• ■ ' ■■?'■;■; ■ I. ■ v.; ..»i CHAPTER V. • '< ' -fie Engagement with Colonel Talbot — His farm, Garden, and Orchards described — Journey to Fort Erie — The Country, its Produce, and Resources noticed. Aug. 9. — Returned to Colonel Talbot's, who recom- mended my waiting until the survey of the townsliip of Orford should return from the land office at York, where it had been sent for inspection, and the reserves marked out, when I could have an early choice, to which I assented : and as the Colonel's foreman, or overseer of his farm, soon after left his situation, I engaged to suc- ceed him. The harvest this season is earlier than usual, through the long-continued drought and hot weather. A Canada summer is much like the finest and hottest we have in England : but I am told the heat increases *i AN EMIGRANT. n at a distance from the lakes. The Colonel's wheat and oat crops fair, the peas good ; but too dry for potatoes and corn. Auff. 14. — " Hauling" peas, that is, drawing them on waggons to the stack. Jug. 16. — Rain all day, with the wheat and oats in the field yet for want of hands, the harvest in the neighbourhood being nearly all finished for the year. The Colonel has about 150 sheep, shut up in a pen at night to preserve them from the wolves, (this is not done in old settlements); they are of various breeds, some with and some w; Jout horns. Twenty-five milch cows ; four yoke of oxen broken in, besides one yoke killed this fall ; fifty or sixty head of young cattle, which run in the woods all the summer ; twenty-three weanling calves; four horses of the nag kind, with uncut long tails, the only sort in this country, and are generally pretty good, but want a little more blood; four sows and a number of store pigs, which also get their living in the woods through the summer, and during the winter, when there are plenty of nuts and acorns. Fattened forty-two hogs this fall in an open pen, with peas given them on the ground, and water in troughs, in about eight weeks. Filled thirty-five barrels of 200 lbs. each with them ; worth about 3/. 3,v. per barrel. There are some good hogs a few miles from the Colonel's, yet the Berkshire breed would be an acqui- sition, as also Leicester sheep. Cows appear to be suited to the woods, with, a middle-sized caicass, and horns not very long. All their stock might be im- proved by proper selections. A few good blood stallions, and two or three large cart horses would probably pay :i ». 72 INQUIRIES OF for importing. Colonel Talbot has a garden pretty well stocked with shrubs, fruit-trees, &c. in better order than most in America, yet not like a good common one in England. There are cherries, plums, apricots, peaches, nectarines, gooseberries, currants, &c., also water, or musk melons, and cucumbers, fine and plenty — cab- bages and other vegetables thrive very well. A patch of Swedish turnips (or ruta-baga) of a good size, not- withstanding the dry season. A few hills of hops at one corner of the garden look remarkably well ; they are gathered at the beginning of September. There is also a few bunches of English cowslips, but none wild in the woods. There is a species of the violet in the fields, with less fragrance than the English ones. The Colonel has likewise extensive orchards ; some of the fruit fine, yet the great proportion raised from apple- kernels, and remain ungrafted; although they bear well, their fruit is small and inferior to those grafted, except for cider. A great portion were suffered to hang too long on the trees, until the frosts came and spoiled them. The beautiful little humming-birds are numerous this season. Sowed wheat from the begin- ning to the end o*^ September, and a little in October. A large flock of wild turkeys seen near the woods, and came to the farm-yard, where the men shot several of them; one weighed 151bs. after being picked. There are plenty in the woods, of the same breed as the tame black turkey, and excellent eating. Cut the " corn" about the 20th of September, which was much eaten by the racoons and black squirrels, which are extifinrdinarily numerous, troublesome, and destructive, from the scar- city of nuts aa4 inast in t;)i§ y{Qods l|||b ^taspn. ' AN EMIGRANT. 73 Dec. 10. — The summer and fall has heen remarkahly dry, and still continues. Many mills cannot grind for want of water. November was mild and pleasant, sometimes too warm, and the weather is yet mild. Been ploughing for peas and spring wheat, on the furrows of which they are to be sown next spring without more ploughing. The person with whom I left my trunks at Fort Erie, through a misunderstanding, neglected to forward them, which caused me a journey on foot about 140 miles, and back in a schooner as far as Long Point Bay, where I landed on the 18th of December, on which day there came a heavy fall of snow and sharp frost. Long Point Bay, like most other bays on these Lakes, is formed by a sand bank, having a slight bend thirty or more miles down the Lake. This peninsula varies in width from a few rods to a mile or two ; much covered with fine timber, scrub pines and cedar only. There Is a river (Big Creek) empties within the Bay, running through a considerable tract of sandy plains and pine woods. The frosts generally close the navi- gation of the lakes earlier than this time, and the vessels are laid up in harbour. After leaving the schooner, passed through marshes half-leg deep in water and snow, with a Yankee who came in the schooner, with whom I left my trunks to be forwarded with his own. He was just returning from the States, with his mother and her family, to settle in Canada. Nearly one-half of the inhabitants of this province are from the States, or their descendants. All the Dutch came from there, and numbers are coming in yearly, on account of the cheapness and goodness of the land, and general healthiness of the climate. Stopped at a Dutch- 74 INQUIRIES OF man's for the night, who has a large frame house not entirely finished (houses in new settlements are often two or three years before completed). This industriouH man has 200 acres of good land, which he says he paid 800 dollars for, by the skins of musk rats he killed in the marshes, and sold for their fine fii;'s, at 2s. 3d. each ; they are getting much less numerous, through being continually hunted ; they are killed by thrusting a spear in their hills, which are like mole-hills. My host also keeps a seine, with which he takes a considerable quan- tity of white fish, and others in the spring and fall. White fish are larger and finer eating than herrings, and sell at about 27s. to 325. per barrel of 200 pounds. In the marshes about the Bay grows a long coarse grass, which the settlers cut for hay at the fall of the year, when the water is low. Dec. 19.: — Proceeded to Otter Creek, eighteen miles, chiefly through woods and by occasional beginnings of settlements. This will be a fine country, not only for its dry and good soil, and consequent healthiness, but for its excellent pines for lumber, and the fine streams for machinery to cut it up. Many saw mills are erected in the neighbourhood, and in operation ; and several schooners employed transporting the lumber to Buffa- loe, Cleveland, and Detroit in the United States, where it generally fetches good prices, as there are but few good pineries on the American side of the lake; it is worth from 155. to 355. per thousand feet at the mill, and from 35s. to 3/. lOs. in the States, after paying the duties (4s. 6d. per thousand feet, I believe). Dec. 20. — Left the Lakes, and pass through the woods to Talbot-street again, passing a few solitary S y AN EMIGRANT. 75 houses and a mill or two in my way. Stopped for the night at Wheeler's tavern (one of the first frame ones in the Street). An Indian, from a neighbouring camp, came in with two "hams" (haunches) of venison, and a deer skin, having killed two deer, and wounded three others that day, and killed nearly forty this season. The tavern keeper gave him one pint of whisky for each ham, and two pints for the skin only ; and that nearly half water ; but liquors are their bane. On the Cat-fish Creek, between the Otter and Kettle Creek, a little back from the Street, is a settlement of Quakers ; there are several others about the province, one at the back of Fort Erie ; they are mostly from the state of Pennsylvania. '^ Dec. 21. — Arrived at Port Talbot again : snow here not half an inch deep, but sharpish frost. Salt selling at five dollars per barrel, or 22s. 6d. ; at BufTaloe only ds. Tea in the latter place 4*., here Qs. or more. Salt nearly all comes from the States, and as there is so much used b}' the universal practice and necessity of giving cattle, sheep, and horses, some every week or two, it, with tea and leather,* drain all the cash from this part of the province : there are importation duties on * Tea is now imported into Canada, direct from China, in an East India ship yearly, and is as cheap as in the States, which has stopped the smvipffljnpr from thence, and, in some instances, it is revet sud. \\ llh mumd to leather, the pro- vince in a few years will be able to supply itselt, as the coun- try gets full of*^ cattle ; and it is becoming a practice for the farmers to kill one or more each, at the beginning of the winter, for their own use, besides others they sell. No new settlement can raise sufficient at first, as cows are then pre- served for breeders until old. Sole leather selling in Buffaloe at 13^fi. per pound, in York 15^rf., and up in the West22^ Jan. 1, 1826. — Been a few very sharp frosty days, w^ith a Httle snow, which has put the people all in mo- tion, sleighing, cuttering, &c. A sleigh is drawn by two horses abreast, here called a "span;" a cutter is drawn by one horse : they are both made alike as to shape ; the box, or frame, is made light, and painted green or blue mostly, and some fancifully; they are something in the form of r " ar^.M, Hyed on two run- ners in the shape of skivi e^, made vf \\ od, and shod with steel or cast iror, ;'''ith tlv: cooiin>:^ucement of AN EMIGRANT. 77 this year tenninated the original regulations for grant- ing land to settlers, and by an Order in Council new rules were set forth, to be continued for two years, which are noticed in the Appendix. The winters of Canada have been a terror to Englishmen ; but though colder, they are more pleasant, and the inhabitants do not suffer so much from their severity ; their dryness has less effect on the human constitution, and even cattle, than a raw damp air several degrees warmer. Cattle require less fodder, and are much fed upon wheat and oat straw, which they eat up clean, and do well, if they get enough of it. The winter is the most lively part of the year ; when there is about four inches snow with a frost, sleighing is universal, for business or pleasure, from one end of the province to the other. A span of good horses conveys two or three persons in a sleigh forty or fifty miles a day with ease, and they often go sixty or seventy. With warm clothing, a fur cap, and a bear or buffalo skin over the back and feet, it is a pleasant and very easy way of travelling, enli- vened by the numerous sleighs and the jingling of bells, which the horses are required to wear ; in this season many of the Canadians have quite a military appearance* During the winter I took a journey to the Mill, at St. Thomas's, and to have the horses shod, which will last the year, as the roads do not wear them out quick. The days in length are more equal at all seasons, and the sun has more power. Some wolves made their appearance about the premises during the foggy nights, after a dead hog ; the dogs retreated to the house much frightened, but they very rarely attack the human species. .. -. , ,, - _ . -, . 78 INQUIRIES OF Feb. 12. — it has been a steady frost the last three or four weeks, bo that the farmers have got their hauling pretty well done. Ijast winter there was no sleighing, no snow, and hardly any frost in the western part of the province. Feb. 26. — It has been quite moderate weather of late, and yesterday and to-day mild and thawing. March 5. — Foggy open weather, thermometer 48 ; snow nearly all gone, and ice breaking up along the lake shore. The noise caused by its breaking, when driven by a south wind on the shore, is like the various noises arising from the rattling of carriages, and the bustle of a large town on approaching it. In the depth of winter, in the sharpest weather, the trees, on the sun rising on them, snap and crack like the report of pistols in all directions, though there are no cracks to be seen. Grass and wheat begin to shoot, hens lay, &c. Been sowing some Timothy grass seed, and the ground very tender, it being flat and not properly drained ; the water stands as long as there is any frost to prevent it sinking into the sub soil. The frost has penetrated from three to five inches in open places, but in the woods hardly through the dead leaves. March 12. — Frost nearly out of the ground, and ice off the lake; a good deal of rain; foggy weather of late, the latter of which is unusual. The sugar harvest now commences ; parties take large kettles and go out into the "sugar bush," (those parts of the wood which con- sist chiefly of the sugar maple tree). A notch is cut or a hole bored into each tree, and a small wooden trough placed to catch the sap, when it is carried in pails or drawn in barrels placed on an ox sled, to the "Camp," ^ AN EMIGRANT. 79 and evaporated by boiling down to the proper consist- enceg, when it is run into various fanciful shapes in moulds, or stirred while cooling to make it into powder, like muscovado, for sale, or use in the family, selling from 4c?. to 6^d. per pound, or Gd. to Is. New York currency (in which trade is generally done in the western part of the province), while in the eastern, it is in Halifax currency, 18*. sterling to the pound, or 5s. to the dollar. When it is a good season (sharp frosts at night and sun warm in the day), on an average each tree will yield twelve gallons or more of sap, producing, on evaporation, near three pounds of sugar; some fami- lies making from 1000 to 3000 pounds in the season, if it he a good one, which lasts three or four weeks gene- rally. Maple sugar is considered wholesome, and if well drained from molasses, is nearly equal in grain and taste to the West India Muscovado. March 19. — Been three severe cold days this last week, and a snow stoim, which made a little sleighing, but it is gone again, with rain and thunder. Employed in mending the seine for fishing, making ladders, drag- rakes, and a roller; the two latter are novelties, people ask if the last is to thresh grain. March 26. — Some frosty and cold, and some wet and mild days, and thunder, of late ; thermometer has been as high as temperate, and down below tlir freezing point. April 2. — Fine, pleasant day, and has been pretty much so all the week, yet some frosty nights. Went to the village for whisky, and for two new cast-iron ploughs (cast at Long Point Furnace, their price 21. each), and have the wrought-iron ploughshares laid, which are done only once a-year, the ground being so 80 INQUIRIES OF free fVom stones and gravel the irons wear but little. A new iron furnace^ and forge, establishing on Otter Creek, forty miles below here, where good hands get thirteen dollars wages per month and board now, and fifteen dollars offered for the summer, payable chiefly in their casting ware.* The Colonel has his thrashing all done by the flail, but a great deal of the grain in the province is trodden out by either horses or oxen. A man with four horses will tread out thirty bushels, or more, in a day, which does very well for grain that is used in the distillery, but is too dirty, though often done, for flour for the merchant, and baking in the family . Vv^hen flail thrashing is hired, the thrasher gets one-tenth and his board ; and as the dryness of the climate makes it thrash well, one man often thrashes from eight to twelve, or even fifteen bushels in a day. Millers are allowed by law, for grinding, one-twelfth, it has been one-tenth I am told ; but some wise-acres, who thought it was not enough, petitioned for one-twelfth ! ^pril 8. — This week has been partly wet and cold, and partly fine and pleasant. Sowing spring wheat, with clover, and Timothy grass, on land that was ploughed last fall; it harrowed pretty well consid ring the wet undrained state it was in. Ploughed with two yoke of oxen at each plough, yet most people use only * Iron ore plentiful and good in various parts of the pro- vince, chiefly tound in swamps, on sandy land , and forges and furnaces are now so common that iron and cast ware is plentiful, and moderately cheap. Wrought-iron, which, if well made, is very tough and good, fetches its price, and mill machinery cast is about 2|cZ. per pound. Stoves, pots, kettles, &c., at an advance in proportion to extra workman- ship, &c. '»■ >* ^ AN (MIGRANT. 81 one, except in breaking up new land. Sheep began lambing. Pigeons, in great flocks, going out daily northward; some people, with nets and decoy pigeons, will catch several hundreds in a day, when they some- times take only their breasts, and salt them down in barrels, and make beds of their feathers. Turn, d the calves out of the yard to grass. The one, two, and three year old cattle go to the woods, and do very well on the wild leeks and onions, &c. Only the milch cows and horses have any hay now, and the sheep a few oats in the sheaf in the morning. ylpril 15. — Two or three rather severe frosty days at the beginning of the week: one morning seventeen degrees, the next at thirteen only above zero, when the next it was as high as fifty-three ; these fluctuations arise by the change of the wind from north-west to south- west. The severity of two nights killed several lambs, but have yet as many as ewes. Wolves last night bit a calf's tail off, and otherwise lacerated it behind, and would have killed it, had not the oxen been with them. Oxen will drive any number of wolves, and even throw down the strongest fence, with a strange noise to get at them, when calf or a cow is attacked. Began sowing peas (a white >ort) 2^ bushels per acre, many p'oplc aow much less : the etrly maple and grey peas, I think, would answer much better here, as peas are mostly grown for hogs only. There is a kind of dwarf kidney beans (white) sown in the fields, and eaten in winter, which are very good, better than pea:., and I think would thrive well in England. Pigeons very trouble- some, both on the peas and spring wheat; two boys employed to keep them ofl". Used the new roller on \ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ 1.0 1.1 U« lii 122 £ 1^ 12.0 mil ik |'-25 |l.4 ||^ ^ 6" ► Photogranhic Sdences Corpoiation 23 WiST MAIN STUiT WtBSTIR,N.Y. 14SW (71«)«72-4S03 '^ 4% 82 INQUIRIES OF the wheat and meadow, made entirely of wood, which answers well. Sowed a little Swedish turnip seed in the orchard. Cows troubled with the hollow horn, never heard of it in England. But the most destruc- tive complaint incident to cows and oxen is the mur- rain : the attack being sudden, they are often dead before found. There are two species of this disease, the bloody and the dry murrain. It appears to be an affection of the liver, or rather the blood, which is abstracted from the heart and blood vessels to the liver and bladder, and evacuated, while the animal lives, through the latter ; and in the dry murrain the blood is nearly or quite dried up. When the complaint comes on, they have a dull sleepy appearance, and great pains and trembling as it proceeds. I thought it might be caused by the want of sufficient salt, as some cattle appear more subject to it than others ; yet I am told there are numbers of cases, where cattle have as much salt as they will take. It is supposed to be caused by the sharp frosts : the remedy is to bore a hole with a gimblet into the horns, about three inches from the head, when wind, and sometimes blood, issues out. v > Jpril 22. — This last week has been cold, and the spring is later than usual; fields hardly look green yet. Spring wheat just coming up only, having been three weeks in the ground. Sowed oats, and more clover and Timothy grass, and pecked and levelled the land (a very uncommon thing in America) ; sowed three bushels of oats to the acre (more than is sown in general), with four or five pounds of clover, and as much Timothy grass. Timothy, or cat's-tail, as it is called in England, is not a good grass to sow with ^ V AN EMIGRANT. 'Oio a )re Ihe led in as is ith clover, as it is not fit to cut so soon by a fortnight, and throws up no latter or after math. Some of the better sorts of rye-grass, cocksfoot, or sweet-scented vernal grass, I think, would be much better; but they are not introduced into use here at present, and little atten- tion is paid to improvements. Clover, even by itself, answers admirably on a clear tilth, and will last well in the ground for six or seven or more years, yet it is not sown by one fanner in half a dozen in this western part of the pwvince ; even Colonel Talbot, I am told, never had any but once before, wh:ch was suffered to stand till dead ripe (like all grass here) before cutting, when the cattle would not eat the hay, and it therefore was condemned. It is getting into general use at Long Point, and the seed sells from seven to eight dollars per bushel, or about 35*. per cwt. Ploughing up new land for the first time, that was chopped and cleared several years ago; rough work, amongst roots, &c. Have sixty lambs dropped, which are strong and thriving. Two sheep and lambs left out of the pen last night, by mistake, when either a dog or wolf killed one of the sheep. Many dogs I believe kill sheep here- abouts, through their being used to hunt racoons and deer. Hauled the seine yesterday in the lake, and caught nine maskinonge (a large fish, very like a pike) from five to thirty pounds each. April 29. — There has been several days heavy rain, which is not uncommon, as, with the exception of thunder showers, it generally lasts for a longer time than in England. The fruits, wheat, and grass begin to hud ; and on hauling the seine every day or two, we take a variety of fine fish in great numbers. g2 INQUIRIES OF i' I :•'. ' ^ May 6. — This has been a stormy week and mostly cold; but one very warm day, thermometer 71 in my sleeping-room at noon ; generally from 48 to 62. Peas up, and pigeons done coming. Ploughing prevented by the water standing on the land, in what are termed cradle-holes, formed by trees being blown up by the roots, and are found only on a wet, or a loose soil. The spring later by three weeks than the last. Whitethorn just budding ; grass grows but little ; cattle live hard ; working oxen eat much com; sheep done lambing; heard the wolves howl last night in the woods for the first time. - May 13. — A warm growing week ; thermometer 65 this morning, at noon 81. Vegetation is now rapid, and the woods begin to assume the livery of spring. The wind has taken its fine weather summer courses — blowing off land at nights, and off the lake at days, which tempers and purifies the atmosphere. Sent 200 bushels of wheat to the " still," to have seven quarts of whisky per bushel for it; three, to three and a half gallons are made from a bushel of wheat, corn, or rye. Potatoes and pumpkins can be distilled, but are seldom used. '*■*' • '*^' May 20. — A warm and dry week, except a thunder- storm, which cooled the air. Finished sowing oats, and been ploughing for corn. There is little peach and apple blossom this season, but other fmits set well ; and a bed of asparagus in Colonel Talbot's garden is very good. The woods abound with the notes of the well- known bird " whip-poor-will," and many others, which, though not harmonious, are cheerful ; the musquittoes are numerous in and about the woods, but none in the houses, or on the clearings. AN EMIGRANT. 85 May 27. — Dry, warm weather; vegetation wants rain ; thermometer has varied from 60 to 75. Planted the corn ; which is done thus : after ploughing and well-harrowing the ground, parallel furrows are run by the plough three or four feet asunder, straight across the field, and sometimes intersected ; when the planter, with a little bag of corn before him, (something like bean-setters in England), and a hoe, proceeds along these furrows, and drops, at from three to four feet rpart, two, three, or four grains of the corn in one place, and slightly covers them with the hoe; some prefer planting in the furrows, others between them, according to the dryness of the soil, or the season. The quantity of seed required is only about one peck per acre ; com is sometimes planted on the furrow (or sod, as it is here called) of new-ploughed grass land, and does very well. Washed the sheep in the creek, and ploughed ground for potatoes. The Colonel has been to the village of St. Thomas, to the Anniversary Dinner held in honour of himself in establishing the " Talbot Settlement:" it is generally well attended by store- keepers, and people of varioiis trades and callings, as well as the more respectable farmers. Milk will now hardly keep sweet, some days, from morning to night, through having a bad "milk-house" (dairy) situated above ground and without shade. ; June 4. — The last two days foggy, but no rain, which is wanted. This is " training day," when the militia meet at appointed stations, near home, throughout the province, to be trained, some with guns and some with- ; out. I need not say they learn but little, when the ? reader is informed this is the only day in the year they ^ w 80 INQUIRIES or I il ! meet, and then not half of them, perhaps ; and nearly one-half of their officers know as little of military exer- cise as themselves: it is merely a " frolic" for the youngsters ; nor is it necessary to train, except in pros- pect of war speedily coming on. All males between the ages of eighteen and sixty, with few exceptions, are subject to the militia duties. Those between the ages of eighteen and forty-^ive only are called out in ordi- nary cases. Some Indian corn coming up, and some yet dry in the ground for want of rain ; oats up, and grow apace ; peas on the bottom or meadow land look well ; those on the uplands too dry. Finished planting potatoes, and hoed the first set ones : they are planted thus ; being cut as in England ; three or four of these cuttings are dropped together in one place, then the soil hoed over them into a " hill," 2^ feet apart each way This is the only method that can be used on new-cleared land among the stumps, and before it is ploughed; but this method is adhered to when there are no stumps, or necessity for it, which I think an injudicious practice. ^i June 5. — Sheared the sheep to-day; the Canadians shear the belly and neck, and then tie the sheeps' legs» and shear along them, or rather any, or every way, and are not nice about their appearance when finished. One Canadian sheared nearly fifty. The Canadians are generally active, or smart as they term it, in which they pride themselves, and generally at work strive to outdo each other in expertness; but they do not like long, and steady hard work, yet at times submit to it, and in general are able to endure it. Castrated the male lambs, and cut all their tails at the time of shearing. I \ AN EMIGRANT. 87 June 6. — The thermometer to-day 81 : it has been as high Here once before this season ; but by a Montreal paper, I see it has been at 88 there some time ngo. Clover getting on the head. I have found some bunches of vernal-grass, and some of cocksfoot (the latter here termed orchard-grass), the seed of which was brought from England some years ago, and scat- tered in the fields ; both of which look well, particularly the former. The Colonel has also a bunch or two of good sainfoin in his garden. Some vessels of late seen sailing up the Lake for the first time this season. .,ii^>> June 10. — The last has proved a very hot week; but a thunder stor.n last night has cooled the air : thermo- meter to-day 68, but has been 75 and upwards all the week. Not quite enough rain for potatoes and com, but it has done all other things good: winter wheat looks well, and is coming on the ear. Began cutting clover to-day ; a fair crop, but sown rather too thin on the ground (only two or three pounds per acre). The blossoms of the wild grapes, growing about the fences, perfume the air with their pleasant odour ; something like mignionette. Have twenty cows calved, and milk plenty. June 18. — Some rain and a cool week : thermometer 55 to 67. Finished mowing the clover ; some of it laid or lodged — about 25 cwt. per acre : got it up and stacked it; in which we mixed salt as an experiment. " Hay and grain are carried together, on waggons or sleds (the latter without wheels), which is properly called hauling. Waggon wheels are strong and light, the tire being an entire ring, which strengthens the wheel ; the body (or box, as it is called, and properly. 83 INQUIRIES OP ji i!' I as it is nothing hut four hoards fastened together hy hooks or pins, in a long square form) can be put on or taken off at pleasure : a kind of frame, not much unlike an open Bheep crib, is put on for carrying. Two young men, just arrived from England, came and hired them- selves to the Colonel at forty-five shillings per month, to live in the house and to work on the farm. '. >u(tttfc' fi June 24. — Been plenty of rain of late. Yesterday a thunder storm hung nearly the whole day in one posi- tion, about two miles off; it thundered and rained all the time; yet no rain with us. ^^a^^ •^ July 1. — The weather fine and temperate, with little rain. Fruit and vegetables ripen well, and are plen- tiful. As the month advanced, some hot days in suc- cession, during which the harvest was got in ; the TimoUiy grass pretty good, but the Indian, or wild grass of the poa species, a poor crop to mow. In foddering cattle in winter no hay knives are used, generally ; but the top of the stack thrown off until all used ; being but little or no rain in winter, it does not take any damage. Colonel Talbot has just received a sample of long wool from Lincolnshire, and intends l)rocuring some of that breed of sheep, as he says government have removed all restrictions respecting the exportation of sheep. I think the Leicester sheep better adapted to this country in every respect, they are not so liable to get entangled in the woods with their ■ wool, or to get cast on their backs, requiring less food and a shorter pasture, and being more active to leap r logs, &c. and yet a sufficient length of wool; but ^ souChdowns, with regard to subsistence, would do better . than either, and perhaps in some other respect (a few \ AN EMIGRANT. at least), as finer wool is getting more in request. Wool is from Is. l^rf. to 2*. 3rf. per pound, if sold; but the settlers either send it to a carding machine (one or more of which are to be found in every district of the country) to be carded, for which twopence or threepence per pound is charged, and then spun at home by the families, and perhaps wove, as many farmers keep a loom in the house ; or else it is sent to the little factors to be made into cloth, for coats, trowsers, &c. ; one half of the cloth produced from the wool is retained for making, the other is returned, which part is generally in rather a greater proportion than one yard of cloth to two pounds of wool. Is it not singular and peculiar to this country, that sheep never have the scab, or the ' maggot? nor have I heard of any rotting! Still it is not properly a sheep country, till more cleared, except' on the plains, and there but few are kept. Generally, i through the new settled parts of the province, each-^ farmer has from five or six to twenty or thirty, and in j some instances to fifty or sixty, but rarely more. -» July 22. — Cradling the wheat, and reaping that f which has been knocked down with the rains. Peasj < oats, and spring wheat nearly ripe. -r - "'-'•' July 29. — A cool week : thermometer about 70-— * mornings rather cold ; winds north-west at night, and ' ' south only in the days. Finished cutting and getting ' up the winter wheat; some of it a large crop, thirty or "» more bushels per acre. Cradling the oats. The Ca- ' nadians are expert at cradling, and will do, for a short ' time, from two to three, or even four acres per day, ' according to the weight of the crop, one person tying '^ up into sheaves after them. "' ^44i^'i>M ^^^.^ i^*^' 90 INQUIItlF.S OF Av()ud 5. — Another mild week ; yesterday and to-day the hottest : thermometer at noon 82, when a short but sharp thunder gust came on, and the thermometer sunk imnjediately. Cut spring wheat and housed it; not good, too thick on the groimd — two bushels and a half per acre sown. I believe the Talavera wheat would be an excellent spring wheat, as it generally answers best in warm seasons in England. Thousands of long large flies, similar to the English dragon fly, but a little smaller, are flying about the fields ; they are called musquitto hawks, on account of their killing and living on those insects. Atigust\2. — Very hot, and no wind: thermometer 83 ; two hot days preceding. At the beginning of the week, the thermometer was at 52 only. Hooked and stacked the peas ; those growing on the bottoms or flats, a very heavy crop, some of the straw from six to nine feet long, and well podded. Cutting a second crop of clover, about 23 cwt. per acre ; it would have been an excellent crop for seed, it was so well headed. Millions of flies (called May flies in England, but here June flies) along the lake shore, and to half a mile distance, smothering every thing, they are so numerous: it is said they only live one day, when they settle on some- thing in the evening and die ; the next morning a young one bursts out of the old one's skin. August 19. — It has been a hot week: thermometer ranging from 72 to 85 ; no rain, but showers flying about. Stacked the second crop of clover. Clover only wants once turning in the swarth, if the crop is large, to make into hay ; and if light, and grass, none at all, only lying a day or two, and then got together into rows and stacked. The beavers have eat down \ AN EMIGRANT. •I several small trees, some inches diameter, in tlie last year, along the side of the Cole Creek: they are a small sort, and hut few of them left now. Auffual 2G. — From this date to the second week in Septemher was remarkahly fine weather, the thermo- meter ranging between 58 and 76, and all agricultural business went on as well as could be desired. Near the creeks and woody swamps the cattle are annoyed by large flies, which bite them so severely as to draw blood. Pigeons again made their appearance in large flocks, as also wild turkeys ; partridges, larger than the English breed, and quails, less than those of Europe, are also numerous. The Canadian farmers, in general, never thatch their 'grain ; all kinds are tied up into sheaves, and made into small stacks, with the middle kept full, the butts out and inclining downwards, to shoot the rain ; but I scarcely need add, it is ineffectual to keep it dry and from sprouting ; yet it is but of little consequence while they use it themselves, or in the dis- tillery; but the WcUand Canal will induce them to raise more wheat for exportation, and then it will be essentially necessary to thatch and preserve the grain in the best possible order. September 9. — Started on foot westward to Bear Creek, thirty miles, to look at a lot of land, in company with a neighbour who is going there to settle. On our road some settlers were clearing the street through a two-mile swamp. This is not a good system, to give cut lands for the settlers to clear the public roads, as the swamps are never taken up ; therefore the roads remain unopened, or the other settlers near must go and clear them, as well as their own ; and as nine out of 92 INQUIRIES OF Hill!" I< ! ' ten of the first settlers in the woods have only their own bodily exertions to depend on, they find enough to uo the first year or two to build a house and barn, nnd clea;: a few acres to grow something to live on, without cutting and clearing public roads. Crossed from Talbot- street to the ** Big-bend" of the river Thames, eight miles through an entire wilderness, having only a slight track, owned by Colonel Talbot: there are numerous such blocks of wild uncultivated land in the province, which have been like fetters to the country's prosperity. A most judicious tax has since been laid on such wild lands, although violently opposed by the pretended friends of the people. This tax ought to be high enough on tho;;,. vild lands that are situated in town- ships partially settled, to compel their owners to either improve, or sell them to those who would, which is nothing but just. The settler, as he improves his own land, h>as the more taxes to pay, at the same time he is enhancing the value of this wild land, without any cost or trouble to the owners. The river Thames is a fine stream, about thirty or forty yards wide, never overflowing, confined in banks ten or fifteen feet high, out of which, every little way, issue numerous fine springs. It is navigable for schooners for twenty or thirty miles from its mouth, and as far again for boats, in the spring. The flats, which in some places are ex- tensive, are the richest land in the province ; the soil in some parts a loamy fat clay, covered by a rich black mould, very similar to the fertile Vale of Aylesbury, in Buckinghamshire ; in other places a sandy or gravelly loam, dry, rich, and well watered with springs. In passing through a new settlement in the woods, the •\ AN EMIGRANT. •I traveller is welcomed in every house; but perhaps he may have occasionally to sleep on a straw bed, on the floor before the fire, with a blanket or two over him, and in the same room the whole of the family live and sleep, perhaps the only one in the house; for eating, he has bread, or cake, and butter and potatoes, or " mush-and-milk," if for supper (ground Indian corn boiled in water to the consistence of hasty puddinff, then eaten with cold milk). It is the favourite dish, and most people are fond of it, from its wholesomcncss and lightness as a supper menl. Indian meal is also sometimes made into cakes, which are called Johnny cakes, and perhaps some meat ; this is the living gene- rally of the first settling for a year or two, by those who bring little other property into the woods but their own hands, with health and strength ; and with these they appear the most independent and contented people in the world, as •-» '**»' '""^1 .. . (fi?- »r '^ "No contiguous palace rears its head, To shame the meanness of their humble shed ; *' "* ,. At night returning, every labour sped, '^ *^"' They sit them down the monarchs of the shed." vjhjvo rt-»j>i At this time of the year the water in the river is mostly low, and may be crossed at the rapids with high boots. Pass down the river along the road leading from the head of Lake Ontario, through Oxford, Westminster, and Delaware, to Sandwich, above the head of Lake ' Erie ; also over the site and ruins of the late Moravian ^ Indian village, and got some apples from one of their small orchards ; some Indian boys there, one of whom ' showed his dexterity by shooting single apples from the ' trees with his bow and arrows. ^ w 94 INQUIRIES OF I ;> i,. , The Moravian village was destroyed in the war by the American Indians^ and has since been built on the opposite side of the river. It is said Indians never build jn the spot where one has been destroyed, think- ing it would be opposing the Great Spirit, as He, they say, would not have suffered it to have been destroyed if in the right place. These Moravian Indians are civilized, live in houses, iHid cultivate as much land and raise as much stock as the white settlers. Speak pretty good English, and assume, in part at least, the dress and manners of the white settlers, and by whom many are much trusted and esteemed. A minister of the Moravian persuasion is settled among them. September 10. — Cross over from the river at Corn- wall's Mill, where we slept last night, to Bear Creek, five miles, mostly dry good land, yet some swamps. The flatness of this western part of the province is the cause of the swamps : a greater part of them are made by the beavers forming dams across narrow water courses, between two little risings of the ground, thereby backing the water over large pieces of level land above them, which in many places has destroyed the trees, and left an open prairie, or wet meadow, which, gene- rally, would be easily drained by merely cutting through these beaver dams. There is a string of swamps on each side of the river Thames in many places, between the flats and the rising ground, where the water springs out. To drain these, some general plan ought to be adopted, not only to recover the rich land now covered with stagnant water, but to destroy the chief, if not the only cause of agues, so prevalent in this neighbour- hood. Bear Creek is a fine stream of clear water, h AN EMIGRANT. 95 running parallel with, and about six or eight miles from the Thames, and about two-thirds of its size, and is navigable nearly as far up as that stream from Lake St. Clair, into which they both empty. The land on Bear Creek in the township of Don, or Done, is now settling ; and, generally, is of an excellent quality and dry, not so clayey as on the river flats. There is in the bottom of the creek, in rtftny places, a hard slaty rock, some of which will burn, and is supposed to cover a bed of coal. There is some lime-stone also. In one of the shallow rapids, I saw two large "Atones of the size of millstones, embedded in the bottom of the creek, per- fectly round, and flat on the upper surface; but I believe rounded on the other side, with a groove on the upper sides of each, within an inch of the rim all round, about the breadth and depth of those made in the millstones ; but no others. It is evident they have been formed by human hands ; but for what purpose I cannot tell, ex- cept for grinding grain. The Indians camp much on the creek, and say it is the best Ashing and hunting- place they lately had, and are sorry they have sold it. There is a fall of water in this creek in the township of Done, of six or seven feet. It is an excellent place for mills, but its neighbourhood is as yet unsettled. The Indians are just returned from Sandwich, whither they had been to receive their annual gifts or presents from government, of blankets, guns, knives, tomahawks, &c. &c. which are generally bartered immediately for a little whisky, &c. The timber on the flats of the Creeks k very tall and straight, with little underbrush, indi- cating the richness of the land. Two kinds of ash timber here I had not seen before, called blue and MA !: INQUIRIES OF hoop-ash ; both very tough, and the latter weU adapted for making hoops, whence it derives its name. I am told there are very fine large hops growing hereabouts. As beer is coming into use, hops can be cultivated to advantage, as they thrive remarkably well ; and some raised in the province sell from 1 Od. to 2s. per lb. Com is seven or eight feet high, and pumpkins (Americans call them punJcins) are very large, nearly as much as a man can carry. Pumpkins are cut in slices, and dried, for making pies in winter; they are also excellent for fattening cattle and milch cows in winter, superior I think to any turnips, and give beef a fine golden colour; they must be preserved in cellars from the frost. They are generally sown among the Indian corn, and answer very well, as they do not injure, nor are injured by it. Saw six acres of new-cleared ground, with its first crop on ; viz. corn, oats, peas, kidney beans, turnips, cabbages, cucumbers, melons and to- bacco, and all very fine. The owner said this first crop would pay for clearing the land, and all other expenses attending the crop. Tobacco is becoming quite a staple article of produce in these western parts of the province. I am told there are several hundred acres of land in tobacco towards Amherstburgh this season : while it continues to be used so generally, and I fear exces- sively, it will pay the cultivator much better than any grain crop. Land here adapted for it (rich sand or loam) producing from eight to fifteen cwt. per acre, and selling to the merchants at from 1/. to 1/. 12*., or 1/. 15s. per cwt. according to quality and demand at home. Black slaves, who have run away from their masters in Kentucky, arrive in Canada almost weekly (where !: \ AN EMIGRANT. 97 they are free), and work at raising tobacco ; I believe they introduced the practice. One person will attend, and manage the whole process of four acres, planting, hoeing, budding, &c. during the summer. Called on a respectable family from Hertfordshire; I mean an orderly, honest, decent, industrious, and t'lerefore an improving family. They had resided several years in the States, from whence they came to this place. Crossed the Thames again, and passed down it a few miles; some fine cleared farms hereabouts, with the stumps of the trees rotted out, but are, apparently, managed in a slovenly manner. They belong ch.ofly to merchants in Sandwich, and elsewhere, and are let out in shares; the owners getting one-third, and the tenant two-thirds of the grain "raised" (grown) thereon : the houses and barns are also in a dilapi- dated state. Some good apple and peach orchards, which bear the finest fruit in the country; ungrafted apples finer than half the grafted ones in England. Cider from 4*. 6d. to 9s. per barrel ; or take two empty barrels at the time of cider making, you have one of them back full. An English farmer of property has been about here lately, looking out a cleared farm to purchase. Old cleared farms, with houses and bams, on the fl«ts, worth from 35*. to 21. per acre. A lot of uncleared land on Bear Creek flats was lately sold for 9s. per acre, and generally cnn be bought for ready money at 4$. or bs. per acre. Passed a man digging a mill-race at the side of a rapid in the river, and a large quantity of timber cut out just by for the mill ; he is doing it all himself, having no money to hire with, and his neighbours tardy in helping him ; as he told me he H f)8 INQUIRIES OF i ! I had expected fourteen or fifteen the day before. It is a very general practice for settlers in the new parts helping, and even io some instances doing the whole of the >vork, in making mill-dams, for something to eat and drink only while doing it. Although the land is rich enough for any thing, yet there is nothing sown hut wheat, corn, and oats, and a few peas : no clover, or very little at least, which I am confident would grow in the greatest luxuriance; wheat often several years successively, then without sowing any grass seeds, it remains in its rough state, when up comes the wild grass and lies a few years, when it is again ploughed for the same deteriorating rotation. There appears no energy in the people for improvement ; a small couch, or twitch grass spreads in these ill-managed farms, which might with little trouble be eradicated. Some of the great wheat farmers half starve their cattle in winter, as they are too idle to get any hay; and although government have offered a premium of 25/. to those who may grow the most hemp on not less than five acres (and it would thrive admirably), no person has hitherto claimed this bounty. But the government have been deemed dilatory in their proceedings, and the people supine, so that the upper part of the province has been out of the reach of trade or commerce ; and what little has been carried on across the lines, has been mostly done by Indian smugglers, who are not annoyed by the custom-house officers. It is not un- likely that the V/elland Canal may cause a great im- provement. September 12. — Crossed the river to Talbot-street, fifteen miles of wood, to a small settlement on Howard \ AN EMTORANT. 09 Ridge, which is a rich dry soil, well watered and healthy ; but a canal or good road is wanted from hence to Rondeau, or Round O as it is called, a distance of sixteen miles, which would save the present route of ten times of that distance to a market for produce. Lake Erie has few natural harbours, ai d as yet but few are made. I have arrived once more at Clear Creek, where there are mills standing many years unfinished, one belonging to a land-surveyor; and that class get possession of the best lands, which they will not part with at any reasonable rate. There are mills enough, but they are frequently stopped for want of water, and grist must then be carried thirty miles to be ground, while there are probably plenty of springs in the imme- diate neighbourhood without mills, but they are in many cases on the government reserves for the crown and clergy. Overtook a "nigger "and his boy, just come from Kentucky, where he took French leave of his master, and brought a horse, which he sold near Detroit. There are some hundreds of these people set- tled at Sandwich and Amherstburgh, who are formed into a volunteer militia corps, and trained to arms. Sept. 16. — Warm of late, the last two nights rather cold. This morning the thermometer 53, and at noon at 71. Cut the corn and set it up into shocks without binding it into sheaves. The method of doing it is thus : with either a sharp short-handled hoe, or a sickle, in one hand, you put the other round one bunch, or what grows on one hill, and chop it off close to the ground, when it is set up into shocks, of two or three armfuls together, and a piece of a stem wrapped round the top to prevent their being blown down ; after having stood H 2 100 INQUIRIES OF UN! a week or two, they are dragged round a centre, and the husks stripped from the ears by people sitting in a circle ; the husks are thrown in a heap in the middle, and* the stalks tied into sheaves and again set into shocks, to remain till quite dry before being stacked for fodder. The ears are picked up in baskets made for the purpose, put into waggons, and drawn to cribs made of small sapling poles, twelve or fourteen feet long, and notched and crossed at the ends by short ones, four or five feet long, laid alternately to the height of six or seven feet, and covered over with slabs rent out of logs, and laid with sufficient inclination one way to shoot off the rain. The corn ears are generally shelled by hand, but a much more expeditious way is to thrash them on a bam floor, with a flail ; one person will thrash twenty- five bushels in a day, and a thrashing machine 500 or more. There are no thrashing machines in the western part of the province, but I have heard of a few at the east. There are dressing-machines (mills they are here called) in general use. Should emigrants bring out thrashing machines, I would recommend two-horse portable ones, as more adapted to this country than larger ; but perhaps miniature models would be better, as castings are easily procured, moderately cheap, and to have the frame-work done on the spot would be a much less expense. I sowed last May about a rood of ground with three pecks of Indian com as an experi- ment, to stand for hay, which was cut and carried in July. Cattle are very fond of it, and in seasons when fodder and hay are likely to be scarce, it might be sown to advantage, any time in June ; but the great quantity of saccharine juice the stalks contain^ requires consi- \ AN EMIORANT. 101 derable time to dry it sufficiently for stacking, to prevent too much heat, or moulding. The produce would be, on good land, I think, three or four tons per acre : it leaves the ground in excellent order for wheat, and I think it . .ight be sown for that purpose to advantage, or for soiling hogs and cattle, in England. Since my return I have seen some com that has ripened in England, and though it is small in the ear compared with what it is in America, and evidently will not answer as a seed crop, yet, for :he above purpose, and the green ears for boiling, it will answer very well ; boiled green ears, with butter as a sauce, or with meat, are considered a delicacy by some. Corn is a very useful article, both in the family, and for feeding hogs and oxen, and although it requires considerable atten- tion and trouble in hoeing, and ploughing between the rows, husking, &c.; yet these processes leave the land in excellent condition for wheat, or for oats, to sow clover with ; and the husking may, I have no doubt, be rendered unnecessary, by letting it stand till perfectly ripe and dry, when the ear with the husk may be stripped from the stalk ; the latter may be then cut and tied into sheaves and shocked, and the former carted directly to cribs till wanted to thrash ; it is said they will not keep in the husk, but if they are carried quite dry, and put into narrow cribs, I am confident they will. September 23. — We had a very smart clap of thunder, with some rain, which improved vegetation; and by this period fruits have all ripened, and there are con- siderable quantities of wild grapes, called thorn plumbs, the size of a buUace : the orchard produces about 200 102 INQUIRIES OF i! m bushels of apples, and the potatoes are plentiful, many being raised for exportation. October 1. — A beautiful day, with a serene sky and still air; and the gullies and ravines covered with flowers the most beautiful ; the shumac, a tender shrub, growing ten feet high. There are also great quantities of nuts, which prevent the com being devoured by the racoons, squirrels, &c. and keep the hogs in good order for the winter. October 8. — Very fine week : thermometer this morn- ing 45, at noon 60, about which it has been all the week, with a shght frost one morning. Killing beef for the winter ; ploughing for spring ; digging potatoes, &c. Potatoes, when dug, are thrown into heaps, on the level ground, about ten to thirty bushels in each ; covered first with a coat of straw, and then the dirt is shovelled up all round and thrown upon them, about six inches thick. One of the men while digging found two heads of Indian arrows, made of flint, on the site of an ancient Indian village, where pieces of coarse earthemware, stone tobacco-pipe bowls, &c. are often discovered. Ml '^ J .,- ', ■■ T '■t- "^.-T .fvk?^!rh;i:«: III r! \ AN EMIGRANT. loa CHAPTER VI. Departure from Colonel Talbot's — Road making^ and a Settler's Establishment described — Capabilities of the Countryy and Manners of the Residents noticed--- Arrival at Ancaster^ and Journey to York. ten Oct. 14. — Some rain, but generally fine and pleasant through the week; thermometer varying from 55 to 03. Grass grows, and looks like spring, but nuts and leaves begin to drop foom the trees. Employed husking com ; the neighbours round used to come for a bushel of apples per day and victuals, but none came this year, as apples are become more plentiful and cheaper. Oct. 21. — There has been one or two frosty morn- ings this last week, but days warm : thermometer 50. Leaves mostly off the trees, except the beech and a few others. By the newspapers I learn that the wheat sent from this country to England is not in good condition, but very foul, which is in no degree surprising, when the method of cultivation and stacking I have described is considered. I am fully of opinion, that with the same management as is in use in England^ or as near as circumstances require, this province would, generally speaking, produce fully equal, and, I think, superior wheat to the former. Colonel Talbot's wheat is a good sample this year, and I weighed some in the spring, of last year's growth, which weighed 62 lbs. to the Win- chester bushel. ^ 104 INQUIRIES OP I •lit i ' I i!i,ii rni xVov. 1. — Been generally mild and pleasant, witli some little rain of late ; thermometer 50 to 60. Having given Colonel Talbot notice that I should quit his ser- vipe, I left him this day to proceed to York, and found it bad walking on account of the late showers, particu- larly in places where the road had been recently thrown up. On first making roads through flat swampy places, logs are cut about ten or twelve feet long, laying them crosswise, side by side, through the above places, which as they are left round, and little or no dirt upon them, are abominably rough ; but along the " street" they are getting them up, and ploughing the sides, and with a kind of large shovel, having a handle (called a scraper) and a yoke of oxen, the dirt is drawn into the centre and rounded, which is called "turnpiking." Four men and two yoke of oxen — one yoke and two men to plough, and the other to scrape, will do as much work in this way, where there are no obstructions, as fifteen or twenty men in the same time, by the ordinary way of digging. The bottoms of the canals are often done the same way, and always ploughed, I believe; and in that case shovelled into cai'ts, or wheelbarrows, seldom or ever dug. In the evening I was overtaken by an elderly man, who procured me a lodging, and I was hospitably received by his family ; they had every thing comfortable in their log-house, and were among the earliest settlers of the State. The settlers in the woods appear to be the most independent and contented peo- pie, in their way, I ever met with ; perhaps with only a log-house unplastered, containing two rooms, one above and one below, sometimes only one below, with a large open fire-place and a log fire. The chimney ml \ AN EMIGRANT. 105 back and hearth built of stone picked up about the farm; a boarded floor unplaticd, perhaps hewed only, if too far from a saw mill ; one or two small glass sash windows, and sometimes, at first, none; doors and gates with wooden hooks and lunges. A few articles of common liousehold utensils, two spinning wheels — one for flax and one for wool, with reaves of spun yarn hung round the inside of the house on wooden pegs driven into the logs ; an upright churn ; (women always milk the cows and churn) ; a gun, or rifle ; one, two, or more dogs; an oven out of dcjrs at a little distance from the house, sometimes built of clay only, at others of brick or stones, often placed on the stump of a tree near the house, and a shed covered over with bark of a tree, or slabs to keep it dry; a yoke of oxen, some young steers, two or three cows, eight or ten sheep, perhaps a horse or a " span ;" a sleigh waggon, plough and harrow, the latter, perhaps, with wooden teeth, form all their riches except the land, and they often raise 100 or 200 bushels of wheat, 80 or 100 of com, some oats, peas, and perhaps buck wheat, and a patch of flax, and fatten three or four hogs, and a cow, or yoke of oxen in a season, besides seven or eight more store pigs, and a sow or two. But those who brought property with them, or were fortunate in having a large family of sons, industrious, and keep from the tavern, perhaps have got a good frame-house, or, at all events, a good frame barn, 80 or 100 acres of land cleared; grow 400 to 600 or more bushels of wheat ; other things in pro- portion, with two or three yoke of oxen, eight or ten to more cows, twelve to twenty or thirty fat hogs, two to five horses, (half of them or more brood mares), &c. 10() IN()UIIlI(:s OF At tlie npo of twenty-one, the sons generally leave tluir parents, if not before, and probably marry, and eitber buy a cleared farm, or go into tbe busb, or new wild land ; tbc last tbey will do witbout regret or besitation ; indeed some prefer it on account of cattle doing so well Uirougb tbe summer in tbe woods, and tbe great crops new land produces, and as to tbe trouble of clearing it, a native would generally ratber do it tban fallow tbe same quantity of ground. November 2. — Bid my friend good morning, and tbanked bim for bis kindness, as be would not accept of any remuneration for my supper and bed ; and pro- ceeded on my journey. Called at a respectable tavern to breakfast. Tbe landlord was gone to tbe mill ; tbc mistress to a neigbbour's, gossiping ; and no bread in tbe bouse nor flour, until tbe landlord came back. Went on to tbe next bouse, a private one, wbere I procured some fried meat, boiled potatoes, tea, bread and butter, for wbicb tbey could not be prevailed on to accept any tbing ! Called on an Englisb farmer from Gloucestersbire, wbo lives on a rented farm near tbe Catfisb Creek. He bad been in good circumstances in England, but was reduced, like tbousands of otbers, and must bave felt severely. I was glad to find tbe old man bearty and cbeerful ; be was dressed in bis old country breecbes, bauling up some logs for fuel, with a yoke of oxen. He bas some good cows, and pretty good sbeep. He bas a small patcb of bops planted in his garden, whose bines bave run up tbe poles very high. Overtaken, to-day, on the road, by an English gentleman on horseback, from tbe county of Sussex, now residing in Ancaster, who accosted me, as he said AN EMIORAVT. 107 " he HuppoBcd I was his country ninii." He in tak'tp^ d circuit round the country, to ohtnin suhscrih^'.s to a weekly newspaper he is going to publish. He spcaVs verj' highly of the country for health, &c., and for the means of jtrocuring a living by almost any kind of business, labour, or employment; — he has travelled through much of the States. Several Englishmen hereabouts, — and indued all over the provinces, per- haps one-sixth or one-eighth of the whole population. Stopped at Loder's. Son)f» smart lasses came in during the evening, who live just by, most of whom took asmoke with the landlord and the landlady, passing the short black pipe from one to another! Disgusting as this practice is, it is not so much so as one in common use in the Eastern part of Maryland, of girls taking a *^ rub- ber*' of snuff— that is, taking as much snuff as will lie on the end of the forefinger out of a box, and rubbing it round the inside of the mouth ! * - November 3. — Passed through the Pinewoods again, and breakfasted at Umstead's tavern; as usual, fried beef or pork, pickles and preserves, tea-cakes and butter — charge 1*. 6d. New York currency, or about I0^d.f which is the general charge in the west; and S^d. for bed. From this place I travelled over new ground, to Big Creek ; sandy hills and swampy hollows, and apparently but an indifferent soil generally ; but, on asking a man who was letting off some water from the road near his house, if the land hereabouts was not poor ? he said, — I have no reason to complain ; I get good crops, and if I had my health I should have done well enough — saying, the place had been very sickly for some years until this, which had been healthy. The 108 INQUIRIES OF 11 1 11 m iki many swamps easily account for sickness in the neigli- bcurhood. It is rather extraordinary, that I have not met with a single person who coiiiplained of having ba4 land, and but few that appeared discontented. Some higher and better land on its banks than I have come through of late. Sovereign's tavern is pleasantly situated on a small eminence a little east of it, at the lower end of Talbot-street, and one of the best in its whole length, kept by a civil^ and what is here called a clever, obliging person, son of a Dutchman. It is a ^ood new farm-house, with barns and other outbuild- ings, and a shed to bait travellers' horses under — and all being painted and white-washed, cut a dashing appearance at a distance ; but when you approach you may see it is only a Canadian, or I might have saia an American tavern, with some of its windows broken, and the holes stopped with fragments of old clothes.* There is too, generally, in some of the best houses, both here and in the States, a kind of genteel shah- biness and inconvenience about them ; but here it is quite a new country, and we must not be fastidious, as it is daily improving, all the way I have come. Some good bams have been erected, and in various places good houses, within the last two years. Indeed, if we consider the great difficulties the first settlers had to encounter, without roads for their communica- tion, and consequently without a market for their pro- * Glass of American manufacture is much used, and being very thin and brittle is easily broken, which, perhaps, is a sufficient apology for the above unsightly objects in a new settlement, when perhaps several miles from a store where glass can be procured. AN EMIGRANT. lOP (luce, and the low, nay, almost destitute circumstances which nine-tenths of them were in, on their arrival in the woods, it is matter of surprise that so much has been done. The mistress of this house, who is about thirty years of age, is no dissenter from the custom of the neighbourhood — seldom long without a beloved pipe. A girl of eighteen or nineteen, smart and lively, but without stockings,* came for a pound of tobacco (some of the landlord's own raising), to learn to smoke, she said. The landlord had been with some neighbours five miles into the woods, fo clear out some windfalls, which had blocked up the road. At dark the above lass (who had now her stockings on) and her mother, came with a "Jersey waggon," to take the tavern- keeper and his wife to a ^^ paring hee" or "6e;" that is, an assemblage of neighbours invited to one house, to prepare apples for drying. Almost every thing here is done by "bees" (in the States they are called frolics). They always contrive to have some whipky at these "bees," which are a kind of merry-meeting, when sometimes dancing and rustic plays are carried on at the close, and occasionally, by drinking too much, quarrels will sometimes arise among the men ; and doubtless a sufficient quantum of scandal, nearly equal to a tea-party in another part of the world, among the women. November 4. — Snows and sleets all day ; quite a con- trast to yesterday, which was a beautiful, fine mild day. Passed through ten miles of woods; pine land * Stockings are hardly ever worn by the settlers in the woods in summer, either by males or females. In winter the latter wear stockings, and t^te former socks. 110 INQUIRE£S OF and sardy oak plains, some of inferior quality, chiefly belongirg *o " United Empire Loyalists," or " United Empire " men. Those loyalists who stuck to the Bri- tish standard in the Revolution, and their children, both male and female, are so called; each of whom can, upon application, receive 200 acres of land of the government in this province, free from all settling and road duties until settled ; so the lands are left in wilder- ness and the roads uncleared, except the settlers " turn out" and clear them. It was here the tavern-keepers and others had come five miles yesterday, to remove trees that had fallen across the track, and which is often occurring. This is another instance and proof, I con- ceive, of the injudicious system adopted by govern- ment, in leaving the public roads to be cleared by settlers. Passed some oak plains, with so few trees on them, that if the brushwood was moved off, they would look like immense parks ! There are a few small vil- lages on these plains, scattered at no great distance. Waterford, Simcoe, and Dover, with from fifteen to thirty houses, have more of the rural simplicity and neatness of English villages than any other I have seen in this country. In a few years, when sheep shall be more attended to, a new system of husbandry intro- duced, and farmers of capital emigrate to Upper Canada, these plains will, I think, be some of the most valuable in the province. — Cut down some or all the few trees to rend into rails for fences ; mow off the few bunches of willow and sassafras brush with a strong scythe ; plough up the ground (a sand) in the fall, and either sow winter tares, or peas in the spring, harrowed in on the fnrrow ; the second year, plant ^ AN EMIGRANT. Ill corn and well work it ; third year, barley or oats, and with it clover or sanfoin, and with turnips and plenty of sheep, it may be made, I think, very profitable land; and certainly easy and pleasant working, with healthy situations for building, and generally good water. Breakfasted at ''a house of entertainment" (houses that have no tavern license). You eat, and drink whisky if you choose, it is set before you, they charge only for the former, though not forgetting the latter in the charge. Whisky at taverns is threepence halfpenny per gill, which is more than 500 per cent, profit; the same quantity, by the gallon, is about a halfpenny. Licenses for taverns and stills in the pro- vince are rather high, to prevent their extension to excess. Stills cost erecting from 60/. to 200/., and will distil from thirty to sixty or eighty gallons of whisky per diem : they pay according to their capacity, 4«. 6d. per gallon yearly ; and as the smallest stills that are in use, I believe, are forty gallons, they of course pay forty dollars, or 10/. currency per year. Taverns pay according to their situation for business, which is de- termined yearly by the magistrates, from 25s. to 5/. and upwards. A bee commenced at the above house while eatmg my breakfast; the wc^ n quilting and the men husking corn. They had just killed a sheep to entertain them with. From this place I entered a country, in some places approaching to hilly, and better settled and open, soma pleasant situations and good orchards. A man accidentally drowned yesterday at a mill, and while I was passing it to-day, people were flocking from all the country, on foot, in waggons, and on horseback, to attend, as is customary^ this early 112 INQUIRICS OF funeral, at twelve o'clock. Stopped for the night at the village of Brantford, on the hanks of Grand River, over which is a large strong wooden bridge, lately er,ected. Villages in this country are mostly embryos of towns, full of trade and business, and some of them increasing fast. This village is situated well both for trade and health, being on high ground. Indians live on the flat of the river, and still hold six miles width on its banks ; some of which they lease out for a term of years, at a low rate, to white people. There are some extensive views from the high land over the cultivated rich bottoms. Nov. 5. — Walked forward to Ancaster; dined at a tavern on the road, where a printed bill was stuck up, to inform the public, that a Yankee show would be ex- hibited there to-morrow ; and among other things, will be '* the glorious victory over the British at New Orleans!" which is a public insult. Stopped at Vanderlip's tavern, three miles from Ancaster: the proprietor a thriving Dutchman, who had, he said, three sons in the battle of Queenston. The government and some military officers have been here and at the " short hills" lately, looking out eligible situations for the erection of forti- fications. Overtook an old Scotchman from the west, going down the country on a visit to a relation ; ha$ • been four years from Scotland, and wishes himself back again, which is rather singular, as generally, it is • said, a " Scotchman is never at home but when from home;" indeed, this is the first of that country I have* met with discontented. But old people from Europe, without property, seldom can fall in cOiS^ially with the' customs and manners of this new country. Frost last rii.ii \ AN EMIGRANT. 113 night, but a thaw to-day, which makes the road bad by the melting of the snow. Cash given for grain, and produce hereabouts, wliich makes this part more thriving than westward, being nearer a market. Wheat is low just now, 2s. Gl^d. per bushel, considerable quan- tities grown in this neighbourhood ; some farmers have from twelve to 1400 bushels in a year, although they seldom employ but few hands besides their own families. Indeed they are not to be procured, as nobody in the country works out much ; they nearly all have land of their own. From the west you approach Ancaster without any rise of ground, but on arriving at it you find yourself on the edge of an eminence, or mountain. The country before you, and on each hand, is broken, precipitous and romantic, and in summer must be beautiful, and no doubt healthy. This ridge or moun- tain runs north-west towarks Lake Huron circuitously, and south-east across the Niagara at Queenston, before noticed, and onward through Lockport, in the States. Ancaster is a large thriviiig handsome village, with some smart buildings, good houses, and a neat new church situated on the brow of the hill, down which a small but constant spring-stream runs, supplying two distilleries, a brewhouse, and a large mill, &c. This place, I am told, mostly belongs to one of four bro- thers, Scotchmen, of the name of Crooks, who have all been members of the colonial assembly. Passed on along a meandering road over hill and through dale, to Dundas, a pretty little, yet fast increasing, village, situated in a vale, by the side of a clear stream, two miles from Ancaster. It is also about two miles from the Little Lake, from which a canal is to be cut next 1 » : li, 1:11 ii i i i 5' Ill il 114 INQUIRIES OF spring. This is a beautiful, romantic part of the coun- try. A harbour is now making at Burlington, and a communication between the Little Lake and Lake Qntario, and should the proj)osed canal through the country to London, from this place, be carried into eflect, it will become the emporium of a large and fertile part of the province. Stopped in Dundas for the night, at an excellent tavern kept by a Mr. Jones from Birmingham; in the village there is another tavern, kept by another Englishman, but most of the inhabi- tants appear to be Scotch. There is a thriving settle- ment of tolerably rich Dutchmen north-west of this place, in the township oi Waterloo. Nov. 7. — After purchasing a pair of common boots, 185., socks, 25. 3d., and mittens, 26-. 3d., I left Dun- das, along Dundas-street (road), winding up round the hills, with my friend, and then through a deep vale, on a partly new-formed road, which was verj'^ dirty and very slippery, through the thawing of the remains of the snow ; descended the mountain again into a more open, level, and better settled country, and dined at Sumner's Tavern, at a small village in Dundas-street. This appears a tolerably thriving part, which is evi- dently caused by the stimulus of a cash market near at hand, for all kinds of produce. Considerable quantity of wheat is grown in this neighbourhood; twenty -two to twenty-five bushels per acre considered a good crop. Not much corn grown ; the ground appears too stiff for it. The street from this place to York runs pa- rallel with the north shore of Lake Ontario, about two or three miles from it. Nov. 8. — Came a heavy rain in the night, which has AN EMIGRANT. 115 washed the remains of the snow and some of tlie dirt from tlie roads. Crossed a number of creeks (small rivers) over some pretty good wooden bridges, near which are mills, stores, &c. &c., the buds of future towns and villages. The river Credit, a small fine clear stream with a stony bottom, is a great resort of salmon, trout, &c. in the spring or foil ; numbers of people every night spearing and selling them, at 30*. to 35». per barrel of 2001bs. weight. No nets allowed in the river or near its mouth, as they would soon destroy all the fish, or at least keep them from going up the river into the country. Two persons in a canoe,* with a spear and a torch, will sometimes kill eight or ten barrels of salmon in one night, yet some- times none at all, as they swim in shoals. From this place to York there are some sandy plains, with white- oak, pines, &c. and a cedar swamp or two, and here and there a fertile spot ; on one of which was a fine large nurseiy of thriving young fruit trees. Stopped at a tavern two miles from York, (taverns every few miles), kept by an agreeable American, who is just starting a furnace for casting all kinds of iron ware. "^ Nov. 9. — At York, the present capital of Upper Canada, being in 43 degrees 35 minutes north, con- tains between 2000 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a fast increasing and improving place, having a number of good buildings, villas, &c. The government oflices are large, and built of brick. The houses and other buildings, although generally small, are neat, and h has * There has been an act passed in the Assembly since, to prevent any but the Indians, who own the land in its neigh- bourhood and live on it, from fishing therein. I 2 116 INQUIRIES OP !' ':■ ft ill 'If III J better furnished than what I have seen in some other places. The country round the town is rather too flat for show. No distant object strikes the eye except the light-house, the shores of the lake, and the peninsula on the opposite side of the bay, which are pleasing. The town has been unhealthy till of late ; a swamp at the back of it was the cause. It is now drained, and the place is healthy. There are two churches, one of the establishment and the other Roman Catholic, and two or three meeting houses. In Canada, as in the States, the Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists, appear the most numerous, except in particular places, (but I may be incorrect, as I have no data to guide me), yet the Episcopalians, or Church of England Con- grationalists, (Independents), and Roman Catholics, are pretty numerous ; besides others, such as Quakers, Dunkards (who are Germans), Universalists, Unita- rians, and some new sects, '' Davidites," and Chris- tians, &c. &c. On my leaving the Province a grand Law-Hall was building, and a new House of Assembly and College to be commenced immediately, which makes a demand for stone cutters and masons, and is a great stimulus to the place ; there is also a talk of a new Episcopal church being shortly erected. Only a few of the Wesleyan Methodists — the greater part being what are termed American Methodists, who have separated from the other, and are now subject to the American Conference. There is only a small market-house at present, which is well attended every day ; and, as the town increases, another will of course be erected — one is now talked of. The Main, or King's Street, is the only one as yet gravelled ; the others are AN EMIGRANT. 117 thrown up into ridges, and are very dirty just now. The streets in towns and villages in this country are wider and more regular ; and the houses being all new, and many painted or whitewashed, they have a more light and airy appearance than those in old countries. There is one bank, called the " York Bank," which is in good repute ; there is also one in Montreal which has a banking-house here, besides one or two in Quebec. Any respectable, steady tradesman can procure money by giving a joint note of hand at the banks, which is a wonderful advantage in a new country, where skill and enterprise have such ample room for its beneficial em- ployment. I think it might be now extended, to very manifest advantage of the province. It is the numerous banks in every part of the States, that have given such a stimulus to enterprise among the Americans; and though it may cause rather wild speculations, and some bankruptcies occasionally, and, consequently, in- dividual losses, the latter soon recover by the same means, and these speculations are at all events public benefits, and cause great undertakings with little or no capital. The notes here are from one dollar, or 5s. currency, to 1/., 5/., 10/., 20/., &c., payable in cash on demand. York Harbour is formed by a semicircular strip of land, or sandbank, with some trees growing thereon, leaving an outlet to the south-west — the light- house being near its point. The bay is about three miles in diameter, -having a small river, the Don, emptying into it, where salmon, herrings, eels, &c. are caught ; some wild ducks also resort to it in spring and fall. It is a good place, also, for domestic geese, where a considerable number are seen; and, like the gene- i ,i t 118 INQUIRIES OF rulity of the geese kept in the province, appear a smaller breed than the English, though perhaps hardier; at Colonel Talbot's and a few other places, I have seen some of the latter. A few hundred soldiers are sta- tioned here in the barracks, which are situated opposite the lighthouse and entrance of the bay. Building lots of land, within the last year or two, have risen in value very fast, on account, it is said, of the seat of govern- ment being decided to remain here for some years to come. ' ,tJfj... /M. •,>*■ ^, CHAPTER VII. Opening of the Colonial Session — Various Journeys from York — A natural Oil Spring — Canadian Auction — A Dutch Settlement — Amherstburgy Sandwich, and other places — A Voyage on Lake Erie and Detroit Rivev described. Nov. 10. — Took a long walk down the Kingston road, chiefly through pine woods and, of course, sandy land, with occasionally a clearing of a house. There are some very fine townships below, and well settled. Saw some of the tall European thistles for the first time in the province. Great quantities of staves for barrels, squared timber, and lumber, yearly prepared on the shores of Lake Ontario, and sent to Montreal and Quebec markets, where they bring a good price, AN EMKillANT. 119 generally to be shipped for tlie West Indies, and va- rious parts of tlie United Kingdom. Upwards of GOO vessels, with o, 000,000/. worth of timber, loaded ycarl}', which is a great benefit to the country, as it is full of timber. Cord wood in York sells at 9.9. to 13.v. (id. per cord (a cord is a stack of eight feet long, four feet high, and cleft in lengths, laid across, of four feet) ; 2.9. erf. per cord is given for chopping and splitting it up; an expert chopper will do three cords in a day. Europeans, on their first arrival in this country, are inferior to Americans in the use of the axe, but soon will, with attention, get sufficiently handy, and be their equals. Fine large fruit grows at the heads of both Lake Erie and Ontario ; saw an apple from the latter, which weighed 18 ounces, and there are some 2.') ounces each. Dec. 1. — Engaged board and lodging at a respectable tradesman's house, at 11*. 3d. per week. The members of the general Assembly or Parliament are coming in to open the Session on the 5th, according to proclama- tion ; the greater part lodge at private houses (two in the house with me), at from 13*. Gd. to 18*. per week, with a private room and board. Many members of this assembly come thirty or forty miles on foot, through bad roads, which their legislative powers ought to place in a good state, but grants for improving the highways are opposed, while they vote themselves 9*. ppr day from the time of leaving home to their return, which they contrive to make as long as possible by their lame, petty wrangling and squabbles in the House, evidently, in some instances, to protract the close of the session. The seat of government will be eventually removed to 120 INQUIKIF.S OP some more eligible and secure part of the province, oh it is too open, and exposed to surprise by un enemy in time of war, and the country too flat for fortifications. London is talked of, at the forks of the Thames ; but perhaps at the head of Lul:e Ontario, in the beauciful, romantic, and healthy neighbourhood of the Little Lake, would be the most eligible. Dec. 5. — Fine pleasant day. At one o'clock the cannon announced the attendance of the Lieutenant- Governor (Sir Peregrine Maitland) to open the Session of Parliament, accompanied by a number of the mili- tary, and a band of music playing national airs. When he was seated on the throne, surrounded by his aJd- de-camps, and some members collected in front, the Governor delivered a written speech, after which the members retired from the council chamber to proceed to business, and the Governor to his carriage, to be escorted back to his house by the soldiers, the music playing, cannon firing, &c. Dec, 1 0. — Left York in a schooner, to cross the Lake to Niagara (or Fort George) for 4s. 6d., about thirty-six miles; arrived in the evening. Niagara is pleasantly situated on apparently a dry healthy soil, at the outlet of the noble river from which it derives its name. This was the first place burnt during the last war by the American General MTlure. It is a very smart, neat, clean place, with some large stores and good taverns. The air is milder than on the other side of the lake, and the snow never falls so soon nor so deep. Niagara to Queenston, and indeed round the head of the Lake to Dundas, Hamilton, and Ancaster, is a fine country, genial air, healthy, well watered, and settled. Land AN LMIiillANT. 121 \ from 30j. to il. 10*. per acre. Fruit is plentiful, good, und cheap. Apples nre pared, quartered, and cored, then strung on a thread to dry, either hy the sun or fire. The peaches have their stones taken out and dried in the same way, and otherwise preserved. The American " Niagara Fort," a small village of Young's Town, is situated on the opposite side of the river ; nnd Leweston opposite Queenston, at which I arrived, seven miles above Niagara. General Brocic's monument is finished, and stands very conspicuous on the mountain top near the road to the Foils. It is to be seen plainly at Niagara, and with a glass, in a clear day, at York, on the other side of the lake. It is a very neat, strong- built pile ; being Sunday, it has the British flag on ita top. Passed Lunday's Lane, which is within a short distance from the Falls. A sharp und obstinate battle was fought here in the late war, which terminated in favour of the British. At a little distance, but witliin sight of the road, a few miles nearer Queenston, the Governor has a country house, in which he resides during the summer; it h in about the style of a first- rate farmer's in England. There is a small village near, with a little neat stone church. Orchards still have some apples hanging on their trees, and great quantities lying under them rotting. The young wheat all along my route looks well. A small steam boat ran this last season on the river between Chippawa and BufTaloe, and a horse boat runs across at the ferry at Blackrock. Dec. 18. — Arrived once more at Port Talbot on foot. The Canadians and settlers think little of travelling 100 or 200 miles out at a time. 122 INQUIRIES OF n:\ Dec. 25. — Christmas-day. Frost ha^ set in sharp, and plenty of snow fallen (about six or eight inches), and of course good sleighing. Started in a cutter, or one-horsp sleigh, for the river Thames and Bear Creek. The settlers on the former, generally speaking, have the character of being idle and inhospitable, quite a contrast in the latter feature to most parts of the pro- vince. This inhospitality is the more inexcusable, on account of there being but few, if any, taverns on the river. • ' « Dec. 28. — Passed up the river, along the Westminster road, for York„ The flats of the river are extensive, as hi^h up as Moravian To\. n, where they get narrow, and the country more broken into gentle hills and dales : rich land, well watered with springs and small streams. A singular spring of oil issues out of the banks of the river near here, on the land belonging to the Indians. it is of the consistence and colour of tar, with a peculiar smell. It is generally supposed to be coal tar {petro- lium) arising from a bed of coal said to run across the country. There are sulphur springs also in the neigh- bourhood, and in various other parts of the province. The oil is gathered from the surface of the water (by Indians and others), by blankets extended and lightly dropped on the surface, when they absorb the oil. li is sold from 2s. 3d. to 4s. Gd. per quart, and sent to aL parts of the province, and even the States, as a cure for rheumatism, sprains, &c., and is sometimes taken in- ternally, in small quantities, for strengthening the tone of the stomach, and other complaints. Ii^ the Long- wood settlement, I saw a spot of twenty or thirty acres of wood torn up, and broken off some fifty years ago AN EMIGRANT. 123 by a hurricane or whirlwind, and the trees scattered in heaps on the ground. I have seen similar j^ laces in different parts of the province ; I have been told there has been none in the settled parts of the province since its settlement. The country is rough and broken by ravines through the neighbouring high lands, bounding the flats of the river; the roads in some places not cleared, because not settled, till near Delaware Town, at which place I crossed the river on the ice, between un- frozen springs on ^ach hand, kept so by tlie motion of the current; but few houses situated on the banks of the river, and a saw-mill and tavern, which will increase in a few years, probably, to a large village or town, as the spot is healthy and adapted for business, and at the lowest point of the river where pines grow, which are here sawed into boards, &c. and raited down to Sand- wich, Detroit, and other places. I am informed ntar 400 deer have been killed this season, within a few miles of this place, chiefly by Indians; haunches of venison to be bought at about I*. Id. each, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds. Stopped at a tavern for the night in the township of Westminster; same day a number of people called in, having just arrived from the quarter sessions for the county of Middlesex, held in London, situated on the opposite side of the river Thames. Petty sessions are held at private houses or taverns in almost e^ery township, once or twice a month, where the "Squires"* attend to settle trifling • Justices of the Peace, or " Squires," as they a*e here called, are made in every township if they are eligible persons. In the new settlements they are mostly farmers, with some store-keepers. One duty of a •* Squire" is, to marry, if no 124 INQUIRIES OF ii appeals to the law, and grant summonses to creditors for the appearance of debtors owing small sums, or giving notes of hand, at their next sitting, to either pay them or show cause why they neglect, when in the latter case the magistrates decide; and if for the credi- tor, and the money is not paid, a writ is issued for the sale of property to the amount and expenses'. Notes of hand to any amount can be recovered, and, I believe, to the amount of 10/. in book debts, except a tavern- keeper's bill for liquor, which is limited to a Tiiuch less amount The township of Westminster is good land, and so also is London, and weli settled and healthy, with numerous fine springs, and also thriving by the exten- sive* clearings ; and good large frame-houses and bams being erected along the street. The extreme of hf t and cold is rather greater here than r.<^ar the lake ^ Jem. 5, 1827. — Arrived again in York, which i^ all bustle by the numerous sleighs from every part of the province; some with produce, such as wheat-flcr in barrels, oats, barley,* pork, beef, butter, e^%z, fowls, &c. ; many on other business, and some on visits. The assembly too being still sitting, makes the town yet more stirring. »' ' Jan, 6. — Left York again for the west; the road full of sleighs, and the taverns full of travellers, a great clergyman of the Church of England is settled within eighteen miles, I believe. * The winter barley is mostly sown in Canada. It is asserted by some that spring barley will not do well, but I believe the contrary, with proper management. 1 would re- *commend emigrants to bring out a small quantity of the early Thanet or Fulham barley, as good barley is, and will be, in request, since breweries are established. AN EMIGRANT. 125 proportion of whom, both ladies and gentlemen, are as well and as fashionably attired, and respectable in ap- pearance, as might be expected from the same number in England. Sumner's tavern, in Dundas-street, has a great run of business, and deservedly, as it is well con- ducted, and kept by an obliging person ; and there are several other good taverns on this route. Travellers with sleighs generally stop to bait and warm themselves every ten or twelve miles. Farmers generally carry their own provisions and oats for horses, and mostly keep them "well, the Dutchmen in particular, who may be compared to the Quakers for prudence and success- ful perseverance, but inferior in education. Turned off Dundas-street, by the Little Lake to the village of Hamilton. Here, in the neighbourhood of Burlington Bay, is perhaps as beautiful and romantic a situation as any in the interior of America, and seems eminently situated and adapted by nature as one of the first com- mercial points in the province. ,..«v«,m,^ Jan, 8. Arrived at the Great Falls once more, which appear ever grand, and ever new. This astonish- ing, and almost incalculable concentrated power — the greatest in the world, is nearly unheeded as to useful purposes, there being only three small mills put in operation by 'ts mighty efforts, while thousands might be wrought. At the village of Chippawa, where the river Welland enters the Niagara, is the beginning of the rapids, which run to the Falls. At their commence- ment, the water in the river is within five o' six feet of the top of the Isvel bank, and has a descent of 200 feet in a mile and a quarter. By means of a duct or chan- nel, cut to convey the water from the mouth of the i2r> INQUIRIES OF '1:. ''"M Welland towards the Falls, how easy this immense power might be brought into operation, at a much less expense in proportion than a single piece of machinery ; and this in a situation, as a central point for commerce and communication with Europe, and the whole of North America, not to be equalled : indeed, every thing seems most admirably adapted by nature for the health, comfort, security, convenience, and trade, of the me- tropolis of a flourishing country. The Americans have established a manufactory on their side of the Falls, and likewise considerable machinery for various purposes, to take the advantages offered by the Erie canal : and, altho ^h 1 have not heard that they contemplate the approp: n of any great portion of this immense and economicui power to manufactories, the present use they make of it will soon suggest to them a more ex- tensive application. Nature has been lavish in the advantages conferred on the Canadian side of the Nia- gara river over the American, through its whole route : the best harbours (indeed there is not a good one on the other side), the best view of the Falls, the nearest and best natural roads, and, generally speaking, the best land. Jan. 12. — Stopped at a Dutch farmer's to sleep, and this morning crossed the Grand River on the ice, when I passed a number of sleighs loaded with the machinery of a steam-engine for a mill; slept again at another Dutch farmer's, whose family have rather more than common primitive appearance : the men with long hair, hanging down over their shoulders, and parted over the forehead, and a homespun dress nearly of the cut of the Quaker, to which sect I at first thought they be- AN EMIGRANT. 127 longed, as they had a silent grace before and after meals. I have since learned they are Dunkards or Menonists, and I was cordially invited to partake of their simple fare. One of the men was communica- tive : he was going with a sleigh load of wheat to the head of Lake Ontario (thirty-five miles) to store it till the spring, expecting an advance in price then. The Dutch in general are in pretty good circumstances, living in large substantial, though plain-built houses ; buii 1, with a stoop, that is, the roof projecting consider- ably over for shade in front of the house ; this is rather common in America ; the Dutch hang the horses' har- ness and ox-yokes, and other implements of husbandry, under them, on pegs driven into the wall of the house ; and having very large barns, and generally good yards and other convenient out-buildings for cattle, &c. In this house, and in that which I slept last night, they had large log fires on the hearth, besides a large stove in the sitting rooms of each, placed on the opposite side, so when sitting at the fire you had the stove at your back ! Another custom peculiar to the Dutch is, instead of lying upon a feather bed, to have it for a covering in lieu of a sheet and blankets, having a straw or chaff one underneath ! It is certainly a warm, but to me not pleasant, method of lying. Some severe cold nights of late ; one night I believe the thermometer was ten or twelve degrees below Zero, but it is milder again and pleasant. Feb. 6. — There has been a greater quantity of snow this winter than was ever known since the settlement of the country. In the west, twelve to eighteen inches deep on a level; back about London, and down at 128 INQUIRIES OF !i York, twenty-four to twenty-eight inches ; and farther down the province three feet and upwards. The wea- ther has heen proportionably cold, and frost steady till now, except a small thaw a few days in January, which it is said always happens, little or much, in that month. Feb. 23. — A beautiful and clear warm day; the snow has been wasting for some days past, which has broken up the excellent sleighing that had lasted steady all winter. The strength of the crust of the snow has this winter enabled the wolves to hunt down the deer, and great numbers have been destroyed. Attended a vendue, or auction sale of farming-stock lately, for which a credit of ten months was given, and the pay- ment to be in wheat at the market price of the time of paymen^. The sale was conducted in much the same manner as an English country auction, with this pecu- liarity, that every time a person gives a bidding, he is offered the bottle of whisky to drink, besides its free and constant circulation through the whole company. A neighbour acts as auctioneer, paying for a license 4*. Qd, for a year. On account of credit being given, things went off much higher than they otherwise would have done. A small aged horse, 11/. 7s. 6d.\ cows from 3/. to 5/. 6s. ; a yoke of oxen, 16/. 8^. ; sheep from 6*. 9rf. to 14«. 9c?. each, with their wool on; a wooden clock, 3/. 165. This man's circumstances and progress may be stated as a criterion of the success of steady industrious settlers in general. He, with several others of the family, came into Canada seven years ago, from the United States, with little or no property besides a bed, and a few other things, of small value. After working out a while to procure a cow, and some neces- AN EMIGRANT. 129 r>ary articles, he drew fifty acres of land of Colonel ifalbot, to clear the road, and settled on it, where he continued to this period, steady and industrious. He has sold his land now at 123/. 15«., and the proceeds of the auction sale, 108/. — together 231/. 15«. sterling. But there are too many that love idleness and the tavern more than is consistent with much prosperity; still, idlers are despised. I have not chosen this man's experience as the most successful, but what any may attain with industry and prudence ; for those who had a family of boys, and drew 200 acres of land, and worked on it with equal perseverance, have probably doubled the above amount. The sugar harvest now begins, which is not so promising as last year. March 25. — Open weather of late ; some days mild and pleasant. Ice off the Lake, frost out of the ground, and snow all gone, except a small remnant drifted on the north sides of the ravines. ^, March CO. — Started in an open boat up the Lake for Sandwich and Detroit, about 130 miles, in company with a squire, his son, and another neighbour, fanners ; the former of whom was taking up seven or eight hundred weight of butter and cheese for sale. The wind being unfavourable, we made but small progress, and the roughness of the Lake caused sea-sicknesB for awhile. We stopped at a private house for the night, on the Lake shore, and were treated hospitably by its owner, a Scotchman. March 31. — After fitting out a boat belonging to our friend, better adapted for sailing than the one we had, and shifting the cargo, we sailed with a fair but light breeze ,• but it soon after hauled round with the sun, 130 INQUIRIES OF (■ and the Lake got rough, so we were unable to go on shore to dine, on account of the surf. At sun-set we made Point-Aux-Pins or Rondeau, and about nine o'clock we run our boat into a creek, and made safe for the night. No house being near, we were com- pelled to *' camp out," which is no very strange thing in some parts of America. After making a good fire of wood drifted on the beech, at the side of some bushes, over which we threw our sails for shelter from the wind, we sat down to supper, and then spread a flail on the ground, on which we lay with our feet to the fire for the night, each of us wrapped in a blanket. The wind getting round early in the morning, and being rather cold, it awakened us, and as it was favour- able we determined to proceed before daylight. April 1. — Left the outlet at three o'clock this morn- ing, with a light, but fair and pleasant breeze, which continued through the day, with mild air and cloudless sky. Doubled Point Pele, or south Foreland, the most southern part of Canada, soon after noon, and rowed round Pigeon Bay, a great fishing place of the Indians, ^ particularly for sturgeon. Cedars grow along the sand banks which surround the Point, and enclose large ponds and marshes as at Rondeau, and perhaps a greater place for water-fowl. Stopped near the mouth of Sturgeon Creek, at an American's, for the night. April 2. — A most beautiful day, and warm, with a fine light breeze from the east. Ranged within a mile or two of the coast of what is called the New Settle- ment, although it has been settled longer than most other new parts. Saw some fine well-built houses of both frame and brick, with good orchards every little AN EMIGRANT. 131 way. Entered the Detroit river about noon, and was floon at the town of Maiden, or Amherstburg, three miles from its mouth; a smart, neat, French-built town, opposite the fine small island of Bois Blanc, and others. There is good and safe anchorage be- tween the island and main shore, well adapted for wharfs and other conveniences for naval or commer- cial purposes. The houses have long steep roofs, after the French fashion: some neat gardens round the town, enclosed with paling. The inhabitants are the greater part French, the first settlers. This place is well situated for trade, in the very mildest and southern- most part of the province, latitude 42^ ; but it wants some enterprising spirits to make it flourish rapidly. Considerable quantities of tobacco are grown in the neighbourhood, which it is evident will soon become quite a staple article. Potatoes arc selling here at 2f(. Sd. per bushel, and brought out of the States, like many other articles. We left this place in the even- ing for Sandwich, my friend not being willing to take 7d. per lb. for his butter, and a little less for his cheese. We camped out again on the beach under the river bank ; being a warm night and wind still, we were pretty comfortable. About midnight some American smugglers were attracted by our fires to the spot, from the opposite side. One was a pleasant person, and had brought a patent chum to show, and of course to sell if he could. It was to be hung up in a room, and put in motion by a string while sitting. He had also a patent keg, with four heads, to contain as many different kinds of liquors. Jpril 3. — Started again before daylight up the river, k2 132 INQUIRIES OP and got lost in the marshy mouth of Duck River, vrhere, if variety of notes could charm, we had an excellent chance of being delighted ; and indeed as an expression of natural joy excited by the return of spring in the animal creation, it must be agreeable to any but a vitiated mind. We rectified our mistake just at daybreak, and continued up the river, with a fine breeze in our favour, by some large islands, some of them entire marshes, whose flaggy grass had just been burned, for the double purpose of getting at the musk rats, and to destroy all the old grass, and allow the young to shoot up for mowing for hay. This is a fine old settled country ; large orchards, and numerous white houses along the shore, in the French fashion, being first settled by French, and the greater part still held by their descendants. An author has said, " in passing these straits of Detroit, when fruit-trees are in blossom, the prospect is perhaps as delightful as any in the world." The wi'^d rising, we were wafted rapidly along to Sandwich Harbour, where we landed at the only and unfrequented wharf, eighteen miles from Amherstburg. Sandwich is pleasantly situated on a fine rise of ground, and apparently a good and moderately dry soil; but the town, on entering it, excites feelings of disappointment and disgust There are some few good houses, surrounded by others that have the appearance of desolation and poverty, occu- pied apparently by a dilatory, listless set of beings ; and such was the miserable state of the taverns, that we could not procure refreshments, or be accommo- dated with a room at any one of them. We called at a house or two to ask if any butter was wanted, but AN EMIGRANT. 133 were not the leant disappointed after the above recep- tion, and took to our boat again for the ferry two miles above, and opposite Detroit, where we found two good taverns, with plenty of beer, cider, &c. Detroit, on the opposite bank of the river, which is about three quarters of a mile across, has a very pretty appearance, with the spires and steeples of two or three churches and the capitol. Passed over in the ferry-boat ; charge ZItd. A number of good large stores, to several of which we went. My friend could not meet with a markec for his butter and cheese at so high a i^rice as at Amherstburg, large quantities having already arrived. Detroit, as well as Sandwich, was settled by the French about the same time as Philadelphia. There is a large Roman Catholic church, and a moderate size Presbyterian one. Re-crossed the river, and stopped for the night at one of the ferry-houses. Two or three young men, from the river Thames, are here with twenty barrels of cider in a boat, ready to ''nm" across to Detroit in the night, to evade the duty. Th(jy had sold it at three dollars per barrel. /4pril 4. — My friends return to Amherstburg, where they will leave their butter and cheese at a store, to be sold on commission, and return home; while I pro- ceed on foot, on my route up the Detroit, for the river Thames, along the road through Westminster to the head of Lake Ontario. The banks of the river Detroit, near the ferry, and some distance up on the Canada side, are from ten to twenty feet high, giving a pleasant commanding prospect, with some good and neat French houses, having orchards and gardens at short distances, n '' li^V 134 INQUIRIES OF on the side of the road, which runs along the hank of the river. The land is cleared nearly two miles back, and free from stumps — those unsightly objects to " old cojuntry " people, on first coming into America, on new- cleared farms. The flower gardens enclosed with pales, though rude, and the old orchards, and green pastures, give it more the appearance of my native country, which is thus brought to my imagination, than any part I have yet seen in the new world. Farms sell hero at from 45s. to 3/. lOs, per acre, a house and some buildings included. The French have a neater way of making their zig-zag fences, by straitening them a little, and putting a stake on each side of the corners, which are pinned together nearer the top than is in general use. Their houses, that were in good repair, are also more neat, by being covered over their sides with bark. Six or seven miles ibove Detroit is Lake St. Clair; and just on entering it is an island in ^e river; this lake is, I believe, nearly circular, ' twenty or thirty miles across. Along the Canada sid<> of it, I travelled to the mouth of the Thames. Its banks are very low, and in places are large marshes; where there are none it is chiefly settled, and mostly by French, who speak English barely suflicient to be understood. At the mouth of the river Thames there are very extensive marshes, in some places uncovered by water, and in others but just covered, round which people have settled, and keep great numbers of cattle and horses to breed for sale, mowing the marsh grass for hay. I should have supposed these marshes un- healthy, had I not been told otherwise, and the looks of the people confirm the assertion. AN EMIGRANT. 135 Jpril 5. — After crossing four miles of the Big Marsh I came to the Thames, a mile or two from its mouth, and a few miles below Chatham. At Chatham there is a church and a mill, but no town or village at present. The river ia about fourteen or fifteen rods or poles wide, of uniform breadth, and of sufKcient depth to admit schooners up it twenty miles or more. There are some lich farms along its banks, but it is not settled backward. For several miles it is settled by French, but higher up are Dutch and some others. Wheat grows and looks well, just covering the ground. There is a store, and mill, once in ten or fifteen miles. The French, along lake St. Clare, and Detroit river, have several windmills. Fish are now coming up the river in shoals to spawn. One man told me he had already caught forty barrels, close by his house, with a small seine. April 6. — Passed over from the river to Talbot-street, again along the road or track, which, at best, is but little better than an Indian troll, and now nearly blocked up by trees blown across it ; while the late rains have filled the swamps, making it almost im- passable for either man or beast. This is the only communication to the river, where there is a bridge, and is much used when passable. Why do not govern- ment cut these public roads, with the fees and other money arising from the sale of lands? If no other funds can be appropriated to such purposes, I would say, establish toll-gates. April 9. — Returned home again, where my friends had arrived the day preceding. Some heavy rain yes- terday. Weather warm of late, and hardly the slightest frost for two or three weeks past — thermometer 50 to 60 ; and spring in all its beauty appears. m 136 INQf IRIES OF May 26. — The latter part of l^st month was wet and cold, which has made the spring kte, contrarj^ to what was expt Jted. Wheat on the wet soils looks hut in- differently on account of it, hut on the dry* and sandy ones very good. June 1. — There has heen a frosty night or two of late, that has slightly nipped the young potatoe tops and some other plants, hut has not hurt fruit trees much. The weather is quite warm again, and vege- tation grows apace. The ploughing and sowing has been protracted on account of the hot weather, as few people think of draining their land, either by ditch or water furrows. June 10. — Dry, warm weather, with an occasional small thunder shower, which has improved the wheat much, and it is now coming on the ear. The sowing of jats, planting corn and potatoes hardly yet finished. Now is the season to transplant the young tobacco plants from the beds, sown as soon as the frosts were out of the ground; its cultivation seems to be extending. • July 2. — Fine, pleasant summer of late, with ^ut l^Htle sultry weather. Sailed this morning on board the schooner Michigan, loaded with lumber (timber sawed) and tobacco, for Fort Erie, from thence to proceed to Niagara, York, and Kingston, with the- former. . July 6. — After experiencing some contrary winds, a gale came on, which vaaiied some of the lumber from the deck, and tora the sails, &c., but the wind soon abating we proceeded on our course, and were becalmed a day or two before arriving at Fort Erie, on the 9th July, where two other small schooners lay. < July 10. — Proceeded to Chippawa. AN EMIGRANT. 137 July 1»3. — Walked out to the Deep Cut, seven miles from this place; several hundreds of people were exca- vating for the canal; hands are in request to get it through as soon as possible ; good wages are offered, and the work is not extreme by any means; 21. \bs. to 3/. 15«. per month, and board, is given according to the abilities of the workman, and to those having horses and oxen .nore in proportion; work from sunrise to sunset ; this is general in all kinds of work, both here and in the United States. T was rather surprised, or disappointed at least, after hearing so much said of the magnitude of the undertaking — its large size to admit schooners, &c. — to find it but very little wider than the Grand Junction boat canal in England. Passed down the canal to St. Catharine's, which is on the line of canal, and two miles from the Lake Ontario ; the land generally of a white clayey loam ; in some places strong, and in others approaching to sandy. Beans pretty good; wheat, peas, and clover (white and red) useful and profitable under good management, yet not very rich. Great quantities of wild mustard growing luxu- riantly along the new-formed canal banks, in the bottom of the Twelve Mile Creek. A number of beau- tifiil spreading shady trees on the sides of the creek, of the butter-nut and hickory species. St. Catherine's is a thriving and rapidly impro' ing villag?, very pleasantly situated along the pleasantly diversified romantic banks of the Twelve Mile Creek, down in which, 100 feet below the houses, is seen meandering the great unfi- nished canal. The inhabitants are chiefly Americans. A " darned tarnation" pretty sample of them here "1 swear," 138 INQUIRIES OF ii: ii$i m some " I guess/' from the *' States' prison," and some that have "broke the limits," " I calculate," &c. In short "blue bellies" of all sorts and conditions, equal to ^nyof the frontier towns on both sides of the "lines." To come at a faint idea of a group of these half-dandi- iied, sleek, smooth-faced, whiskerless, whisky-drinking, third-commandment breaking, speculating, money- hunting gentry, with various other qualifications, too numerous and too bad to mention, take nine tailors, a few barbers, half a dozen strolling players, three or four quack doctors, some few waiters at taverns, hack- ney coachmen, shoemakers, and lawyers' clerks, half a dozen Jews, and three or four honest men, (perhaps as great a proportion as to be found in some other places) the last from Yorkshire, one half of the others from that county, and the remainder cockneys ! Let the barbers shave all the whiskers off the others and themselves ; leave the hair on their heads thick but short, something like a thrum mop, or similar to the fashion in King Charles's days. Let them have very high-crowned hats, some few white, or buif; others black, full of long nap and very narrow biim ; blue surtout, black silk vest, laced up tight behind, blue or black trowsers, full enough round the hips to hold fifty dollars' worth of smuggled goods, with boots, of course ; yes, all boots, or nearly so. This for the first " grade" dress, the others as near as their circumstances will admit. Now place them in a large room in an inn, with free liberty of ingress, egress, and regress, with benches to lie on, and chairs to sit on to throw themselves back against the wall, or pace up and down, in and out of the room, as they think proper. Partition off one comer of the \ AN EMIGRANT. 139 room, the bottom with boards, the top with latticed wooden bars, like palisadoes, with three or four in the middle to slide up to admit ^lyo or three hands or more at a time as occasion requires. In this partition, which we will call a bar, place one of the quack doctors, and after he has locked himself in, let him give out drams of whisky, "Jamaica spirits," (best rum), "bitters," (any kind of liquor taken in a morning ostensibly for procuring an appetite), " sling," " black strap," &c., from a tier of yellow painted kegs standing behind him, with gin, whisky, &c. in large letters on them, to the others, as they pace up and down the room. By the time they have all taken a " drink " or two a-piece, and swallowed a mouthful of water after it, you will hear " guessing" and " calculating" enough, undoubt- edly, and something better, " I don't think! " Be care- ful they do not tread on your toes at this time, and if you wish to retain a seat, do not get up from it even for a " York minute." A *' word to the wise," &c. : — You must not suppose them impudent or intruding if they sit down before you, or stand betwixt you and the fire, with their backs to it ; nor must you be oflended at the number of questions tha lay be put, about your own business and concerns, not even at being asked if you are an honest man; all this is oi;^^, the exercise of the refinements of a superior liberty aiid freedom! Some of them will smoke cigars, and others chew to- bacco, therefore be careful, and keep a "good look-out" if you wish to be cleanly : you had better not leave any furniture in the room, as they generally carry " Rogers' penknives" about them. A few pieces of pine spl"- ts, or other woods, put into the room, will, perhaps, keep 140 INQUIRIES OF them from ** whittling " the chairs, tables, and window frame, and, as the saying goes, ** they will make some- thing of them." You must not he moved should chey ^ast foul abuse and slander on their relation John Bull ; this k one of the most delightful privileges " uncle Sam " and " brother Jonathan " enjoy ! It would be a pity to debar them from such a cheap and innocent amusement, that hurts nobody. But hark ! the horns blow and bells ring to call the hull of them hum (home) " right away straight " to a dinner of " fat pork and melasses," then " Johnny cake and pumpkin pie." After you have awakened " them 'are two men asleep on the benches," (who were " high " when they came in, and full of " develtry," having been on a drinking " scale " of late) and cleaned out the room, I will drop the curtain and leave you to ruminate on a scene in an American tavern, while I proceed on my journey. Took a walk into the country : it being Sunday, and the day fine and pleasant, numbers of farmers and others, and fine veiled females in gigs, cabrioles, and Jersey wag- gons, were dashing along the different cross roads. Monday, went to Niagara ; the houses mostly frame, and painted white, with sash windows and Venetian blinds ; some good convertible lands on the road, and others indifferent ; the roads the best in the province, and some fine orchards ; altogether this is a pleasant and healthy part of the country. They have plenty of fruit in most of the old settled parts, yet are deficient in variety. There are but few of the best sorts of apples grown in England, which is to be regretted, as most kinds flourish admirably; but few good pears and plums ; damsons^ apricots, and nectarines are rare, but excellent. AN EMIGRANT. 141 July 23. — Returned to Chippawa. Harvest is now general; crops good; better than in the west this season. Only two steam-mills in this village, though so near the power of the rapids and great Falls ; there is also an iron foundry and still-maker. Most of the visiters to the Falls go to see Brock's Monument, and view the surrounding country and Lake Ontario from its top (which is 126 feet high, the base 21 ), the greater part of whom are Americans from all parts of the States, but mostly from the southern. Numbers of them seem surprised ; Canada is such a fine country, " and what a pity it does not belong to the States," they say. I happened to be in company at a tavern with some very respectable and sensible New Yorkers, who spoke feelingly on the worse than folly of two nations so nearly allied by blood, who speak the same language, and whose interests are the same, to go to war, as Great Britain .nd the United States. *' Many valuable lives were lost on both sides, and what did they gain?" asked one of them, and much censured his government for the invasion of Canada, to attempt to take it. This is the general feeling of the most en- lightened part of the Americans. Aug. 1. — Mild, moderate weather, with some rain and thunder of late. Neither men, women, nor children in this country alarmed or " scared" at thunder, nor are the latter frigthened to go any where in the dark, or indeed but seldom at real dangers, through habit Saw the first stage coach in this country formed in the English style, built very strong and neat, and drawii by six horses. About 300 sheep brought over the river at the ferry from the States, and duties paid, 142 INQUIRIES OF ;i!!. some for the canal and others to be shipped for York. Americans from the southern States, and others, are often put to some trouble with their " ni^^gers" while visiting Canada, as some of them take advantage of onr just laws, which admit no slavery. '* They touch our country and their shackles fall ! That's noble!" r A French officer who was over here had one of these tmfortunates (a female slave servant), whose skin was a shade darker than his own, take " French leave," when he hired a number of the " sons of liberty" to cross the river and kidnap her back again, in which they too well succeeded under false pretences of pity- ing her, and procuring her a situation. Having got her near the water, they carried her by force into a boat, and before the inhabitants could arrive to her rescue, she was wafted in triumph across to " the land of the free and the home of the brave," with the hearty execrations of the indignant Canadians. Aug. 2. — Took the steam boat from Niagara to York ; fare on deck 4«. 6^., in the cabin 9s. ; four hours cross- ing thirty-six miles; pleasant day and lake smooth; large sturgeon springing quite out of the water at play ; people in boats about the* mouth of the Niagara rii'er, and in other places, for a long time back, dragging for the body of one Morgan, a freemason, who, it is pretty well ascertained, was murdered in or near Fort Niagara, at the mouth of the river, in the state of New York, and is supposed to have been afterwards thrown into the lake by a number of brother masons, for the crime of publishing a book professing to explain and expose the whole secrets of that fraternity. Great rewards AN EMIGRANT. 143 have been offered for the recovery of the body, but as yet without effect. Aug. 3. — Not much business stirring in York just now; harvest time keeps people busy at home. A numbe. of emigrants just arrived in steam boats from below, chiefly Irish, but also a few English. In this country, generally, all trades give premiums, or wages to apprentices, which make» almost any trade easy of attainment to the poorest classes. Some showers of rain every few days, which causes things to grow and flourish, and keeps the weather cool and pleasant. There is a singular kind of toad, called a tree-toad, on account of its being mostly seen on trees, up which it climbs, where it sits, and in rainy weather makes a loud noise similar to an English quail ; but its greatest cu- riosity is its power of changing its colour to that on which it is placed, from nearly white to almost black, and intervening colours ; it is not done instantaneously but gradually, in about ten or fifteen minutes. Had I not witnessed it more than once, I certainly should not have been easily convinced. While standing on the wharf lately, a pleasant-behaved American came up to me, and, in the true spirit of his country, was in an instant as inquisitive and communicative as if we had been particularly acquainted. Taking me for an Ame- rican, he said he had just come from Salem, near Boston, New England, after a lot of land some few miles back of York, which had been made over to him for a debt incurred for shoes sent from there to here, {u e. smuggled, of course). He never had been much from home before, but said, " I see people are alike all over the world ; " and added, he had been taken as much ii 144 INQUIRIES OF care of, and as civilly treated, in Canada, as he had been in the States, as far as he could see. This per- son's surprise in finding people in Canada as civilized and polite an in the States, is by no means singular among Americans. Gardens in York are generally in good order (better than I have seen elsewhere in Ame- rica), and the vegetables, &c. in them very thriving, except when too much crowded or under fruit trees. Brewers appear to do well. There are two or three in York thriving, who began with but little. A porter brewer would, I think, succeed well, if he made a good article. Aug. 21. — Sail for Kingston in a schooner made by two farmers, brothers — farmers are ship- builders, or any, or every thing, as inclination leads, or necessity dictates! A few good ship-builders are wanted on both Lakes, and likewise a few steady sailors. The latter get from 14 to 18 or 20 dollars per month during summer, and the former l^ to 2 dollars per day. i Aug. 27. — After experiencing a smart gale, and some h»ad winds and calms, we arrived at Kingston with a fair wind and pleasant weather. As you approach the town by Long Island it looks very fine. Point Frederic in front, on which is situated the navy yard, barracks, offices, and houses of the government officers and others, has a very similar appearance, in miniature, to New York and vicinity. Kingston is an old settled place, situated on the west bank of the Catarauqnui river, opposite the naval depdt, over which a large bridge is about to be built of wood. Wooden bridges in this country, generally, are the most proper at present, being more economical, requiring less outlay from the I'll AN EMIGRANT. 145 scanty finances of a new country ; yet, as there is here such immense rocks, and good building and lime-stone, on the spot (laid bare by an overflowing of the water over the surrounding neighbourhood at some early period), I should have supposed it would have been nearly as cheap, and if so, certainly more desirable for its durability and strength. The harbour is good, and an excellent place for wharfs ; but, with the exception of two or three, you run the risk of a broken limb in crossing them. The houses are built chiefly of stone, and generally larger than those in York; the streets are also paved with stones (in rather a rough manner), which gives it much the appearance of a small-sized market town in England, about 3000 inhabitants. There are a number of good stores, and three or four large dniggists' shops, as elegantly arranged as some in London, and in all their neatness of order, much better than the general part I have seen in America. A pretty large and handsome stone-built church, and another small one belonging to the Establishment, besides Ro- man Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist places of worship. I like the appearapce of Kingston generally, but it is not so thriving as York ; and here also there is a little of the American feature before noticed. Houses and premises half built and half in ruins, unmeaning, slovenly arrangements, &c. ; but they are fully counter- balanced by a number of specimens of real neatness and order, in different parts of the town, and parti- cularly along the banks of the bay. The military establishment in the neighbourhood causes some little business, yet the inhabitants complain times are not now as they have been. A band of music from the h ■ s. 146 INQUIRIES OP l;l iwrracks parades the town occasionally at night, play- ing lively airs. Four steam-hoats ply between here and Prescott, and up the bay of Quintie (pronounced Kanty, or Canty), besides three to Niagara, York, and Queenston, once a week. Three very large ships of war on the stocks, one above a hundred guns, where they have remained since the war. Kingston is inha- bited chiefly by Europeans, the greater part Irish, I believe ; considerable numbers of Scotch, some Ameri- cans, and a few English. With a little of the down- right hearty good-feeling of my countrymen, I also witnessed some of the haughty superciliousness of aris- tocratic pride, and the impudence of pampered menials. The market is well supplied with meat, fruit, and vege- tables. Potatoes very fine, and only lOd. per bushel now, they have been higher. Apples 1«. 6d, per bushel. Peaches dear, Ss. 9d. to 98. ditto, brought from Niagara and the Genessee river. Melons of various prices, from 6d, to 28. 6d. each. Plums, pines, &c. Beef 4:d. per lb. Great quantities of the tall European thistle hereabout, and seed flying in all directions. If there be no means taken to prevent them spreading, by mowing them before their seeding time, they will prove a curse to this country in a few years, as they increase surpris- ingly, and here literally cover the ground in places. Durham boats, with produce, run from here to Mon- treal, and large rafts of staves and lumber from the bay of Quintie. The Rideau canal is commenced a little abrve Kingston, which it will greatly benefit, par- ticularly if reduced to a boat canal only. It at first was intended to be made large enough for schooners and «team-boats. It has been unusually sickly hereabouts : AN EMIGRANT. 147 fevers and agues, and what are called dumb agues, which are the worst, and sometimes fatal, have been very prevalent. The work on the above canal has been entirely stopped by them for the present, until the cool weather comes on : the neighbourhood where they are now cutting is swampy, with a number of ponds and small lakes. Aug, 29. — The last two or three nights the aurora borealis, or northern lights, have been remarkably bril- liant and grand. The assizes are now holding in the new-built court house, which is large and spacious, with a dome in the roof, and is well constructed to convey the sound of the pleaders' voices to the audi- ence. The gaol is contained under the same roof. Court-houses and gaols in this country are mostly large, well constructed, and convenient. A number of Irishmen, Orangemen, and Catholijs, under trial for rioting. The land in the immediate vicinity of the town is but inferior, indeed in many places nothing but bare rock, and large loose uncovered stones ; but I am told there are very fine tracts a few miles back. No gardens of any account, for the above reason. Peaches, I am informed, will not thrive here. Sept, 10. — Left Kingston in the steam-boat for York, cabin passage 45«. and boarded, on deck 13. Qd. and find yourself; the same to Niagara and Queenston. Got up part of the bay of Quinties, and called at the small village of Bath to take in two passengers. This bay is fifty miles long, and quite narrow, formed by a chain of islands along one side (the isle of Kanti is tlie largest), and the main land on the other. It is beautifully varied and picturesque, with gentle slopes to L 2 148 INQUIRIES OP the water's edge, and pretty thickly settled and cleared, farm-houHcs every little way, strikingly like the Dela- ware river in the state of that name. America can boast of as noble bays, rivers, and lakes^ as the world produces. The weather of late has been fine and plea- sant, and generally so through the season ; very few unpleasant hot days, and rather a cool summer. Sept. 1 2. — Arrived in York. The schooner Michigan, of 130 tons burthen^ in which I came down Lake Erie, vras purchased for a trifling sum (after being stripped of every thing valuable) by the tavern-keepers at the Falls, to be sent adrift down them, to attract customers and amuse the public. Saturday, the 8 th, was the day appointed by advertisement, when it was calculated about 8000 spectators were assembled on each side of the river to witnesss her descent ; she was conducted to the head of the rapids, and then left to be carried down by the current, with a number of wild animals on board, two bears, some foxes, and a buffalo, cats, dogs, geese, &c. As was expected, she went to pieces on the shelves in the rapids, when some of the animals were able to make the Canadian shore, but the others were killed and washed over the Falls; one goose only re- mained alive of. the latter; one of the two bears which made the shore in safety, I have seen on board the steam-boat; it is a tame one, and is intended, it is said, as a present to his Majesty ; and the other, to the Pre- sident of the United States. Sept 15.— Left York on board the steam-boat for Niagara late last night, when early this morning we discovered a fire a-head, which we all supposed to be the lighthouse of Fort Niagara, but found it the large AN EMIGRANT. H9 gteam-boat Frontinac, get adrift after being fired by Mome incendiary ; she had been laid in harbour, for the purpose of having her machinery and iron taken out (which was in progress) for a new one about to be built, this one being old and not sea-worthy. Our captain ordered a hawser to bo fastened to her bows, which as yet had not taken fire, and wc towed her into her old station on the beach, so thot but little of her iron will be lost. The assizes just over here in Niagara. One person, a soldier, hung lately for murdering his wife. Hanging is but rare in this country as yet, and I trust it ever will be, the laws generally being executed in a more lenient, and I think for that reason in a more judicious manner, for petty crimes, than in England. Sept. 21. — At Chippawa, 150 young Americans, train- ing as cadets for officers, were viewing the Falls, and the battle grounds on the Canada side, &c. Fort EriSf Oct. 1. — The weather for the last fortnight has been cloudy, dull, and coldish, but no rain of any consequence. Mr. Gait, the agent of the Canada Land Company, has begun a settlement on the Grand River, and near its head, which is settling fast, and chiefly by old country people; a few lately arrived from South America, whither they had emigrated, but left it dissa- tisfied. Roads are cutting to various points, and a canal is talked of. A town or city is commenced and proceeding fast, which is named Guelph, in honour of the Royal Family, that being their patronimic name. I iH'il i.l"l 150 INQUIRIES OF ..-■J CHAPTER VIII. General Habits, Customs, and Modes of Cultivation practised by original Settlers, described — 7%e value of Canada to Great Britain — Thoughts on the original extent of the Lakes — State of the Forests — Produce of the Land — and outgoings and promts of a Farm shown. ¥■* ' ' \ i » ' The winter of 1827-8 was open and dry, and mills could not grind for want of water ; a wet cold spring followed. The alternate rain and frosts, without a snow covering, hurt the wheat and made it thin on the ground (indeed, every kind of grain is grown too thin in general in this country), and the warm weather coming on made it stole, or tiller, and run up too quick, when the hot dry weather caused it to mildew and rust, and of course thin in the grain. Have been busy during the winter and spring, in conjunction with a partner, erecting a saw mill, to saw black walnut-tree for fur- niture. The summer of 1828 various and changeable; some very hot days, but generally pleasant, with showers. The wheat crop, throughout the two provinces, and the northern and western States, is a very inferior one, and I believe, iu some measure, so in England, which has caused it to rise here to 45. Qd. in the west, and 6«. or 7s. in the east and Lower Canada. Indian com is ex- cellent, and also all other spring crops, and hay. The scarcity of wheat has caused cash to be given for it by m^ AN EMIGRANT. 151 the merchants in all parts of the province ; and in the London district, where the crops of wheat are tolerably good, numbers of fresh storekeepers have staried, the consequence is, the fall of merchandize full Oiie-third, particularly in dry goods. A general election this summer, which occurs every four years, if not sooner dissolved. At the one for the county of Middlesex, where there was a spirited opposition continued the whole week (which is the extent allowed by law) with- out any great advantage on either side, no vulgar abuse was used ; in other respects it was carried on similar to ours in England, drinking, occasional fighting, &c. ; the latter of wliich arose not from political quarrels, but private drunken squabbles. 1 have sometimes read of travellers in this country being in danger of their lives, through the woods being on fire all around them ! but I believe they have, for- tunately, always been able to escape to tell the wonder- ful stories. The fact is, it is only the leaves, and rotten logs, that take fire in the woods; and it is almost needless to add, there is no personal risk from them whatever, the smoke only being a little annoying. But if the wind should be brisk in a dry time, fences, and sometimes buildings, are in danger of these running fires. ^ ,- . -. •- . - ■ ,:',..„.., i „......• ,'i Bees thrive remarkably well, often producing three or four and sometimes more swarms from one hive; they gather a good deal of honey from the woods, and there are often swarms fly into the woods and take up their abode in a hollow tree, which the settlers chop down, and take their honey at the proper season. Honey is worth from three pence half-penny to five 152 INQUIRIES OF 5,1 :'■■;' pence per pound. Many of the Canadians, Americans, and settlers are rather improvident and wastefid ; this, I think, may be traced to habits induced by the pecu- liar circumstances in which they were unavoidably placed at the first settlement of the country ; and hke all other habits not easily shaken off. The public prints at this period more than hinted that Great Britain intended giving up this fine province to the United States for an equivalent ; and although many persons deemed the apparent inattention of the government to the importance of Canada, a sanction to the rumour, it was too absurd to be seriously thought of by any reflecting person. During the late war, the noble stand made by the inhabitants, showed the value they placed upon British laws and protection, and proved that they do not want a separation, if treated with justice and liberality ; they quickly fire, if attack is made on their freedom and privileges, but they are as loyal as any county in England. At the commence- ment of the late war, the province was invaded by the Americans in great force, who had the choice of points of attack : they burnt several places, and expected an easy conquest, from the unprepared state of defence ; yet with scarcely 1000 regular troops, and undisciplined militia, drawn from a population of 50,000 men, (scarcely one to a square mile) they guarded a line of 500 miles, and eventually repelled their assailants. The conduct of the Americans in that war has drawn the bonds of connexion closer to England, and the addi- tional population, cultivation, resources, commerce, and revenue of the country, will become of such importance as to render the possessors of Canada virtually sove- AN EMIGRANT. 153 reigns of the sea; therefore to yield this province to "the most restless and ambitious nation on the globe," would be to enable them to become conquerors of all our other possessions in America and the West Indies, and render it unnecessary for them to supplicate a favour from any power in the world. There are ample proofs that the lakes and bodies of water in these extensive countries, have covered a much larger space than they now occupy ; for the Mountain as it is generally called, which runs by Queenston to Ancaster (and onward north-west) within a few miles of the south of the head of Lake Ontario, approaching it at its extreme point, is evidently an original bank of Ontario. The beds of gravel and sand, in courses, the washed muddy clay, and indeed the sub-soil in general, between the mountain and the present boundary of the lake, as well as the off-sets and broken fragments that tumble from the mountain sides, and the level table land above, all coincide to prove the fact. How far this original bank has extended on the States' side, I have not the means of knowing, — but it is the same at Lockfort, where the locks are situated, on the Erie Canal. It is possible the head of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers were within its boundary ; and perhaps the tremendous Kaatskill mountains formed the outline on that side. In Canada it may be traced a consider- able distance with the eye from the lake. This bank is in some places more than 300 feet high. At the back of Kingston, thirty or forty feet, or perhaps more, above the present high water-mark of the lake, there are places where the rock is not only quite bare of soil, but the ' interstices washed out, and chasms have been also ^ 154 INQUIRIES OF made, evidently by the washing of the water over this part, exactly similar to the rock at the bottom of the lake, near Fort Erie, which is often laid bare by a strong east wind blowing the water back up the lake. The water in the lakes this winter has fallen to the general level, or rather lower, which may be attributed to the extraordinary dryness of the fall and winter, and the almost constant westerly winds, which have blown so much of the water down, and consequently out of the lakes. So dry has it been, that now, at the latter end of January, there has been so little rain or snow that the swamps are &» completely dry as they were during the last summer, and mills cannot grind on many of the creeks for want of water : the season, for mildness and pleasant clear weather, was hardly ever known to be equalled, except four years ago. It is generally be- lieved that the seasons are much more temperate of late years than at the first settlement of the province. In December last, a large piece of the rock over which the water pours at the Niagara Falls, gave way ; the noise and shock, it is said, were heard and felt at Chippawa. It has somewhat altered its appearance ; the hore-shoe is now deeper and more circular. Oct. 10. — Sailed again in a schooner for the west from Fort Erie, late at night ; as high a wind came on as I almost ever witnessed. Our little vessel boimded off the rolling surges, without shipping any seas ; but our sails being old, all gave way, and at day-light we had not a single sail left ! The consequence was, we were fast drifting ashore in a direct line for a reef of rocks, that run out nf>sr a mile from a point of land ; we used every exertion to round this point, as there was AN EMIGRANT. 155 a good harbour there for anchorage, where numbers of schooners had already run in, and three steam boats ; one of the former stuck for a moment on its point, but the swells washed her over. As we found we could not accomplish our object, we had no alternative, but to put the vessel about, and run ashore on the sand beacii, just above the reef, which was done in a very favourable spot; on approaching the shore, the swells were so large and short, that her stem was raised, and her bows driven under water; but on striking the bottom, she rebounded ; and after striking two or three times, was driven close to the beach ; so that watching the retreat of the waves, we all jumped out without being above our knees in water. We then instantly turned too at our merchandize, both sailors and passengers, the latter being the owners of the goods on board ; nearly half we had accomplished, when through hunger, and fatigue in the water, we had to desist awhile, and procure other help from the neighbouring settlers ; twenty or thirty of whom came before night, and we then soon cleared the vessel of the remaining goods, which were consi- derably damaged by the water breaking over the vessel into the hold, and as the rolling had sprung some of the planks on her side. We had to remain a week in the neighbourhood, until another schooner was procured to take us off. After clearing the vessel, she was driven " high and dry" as they term it, being on the subsiding of the storm sixteen or eighteen yards from the water ; forty or fifty hands were procured, and the vessel raised on blocks, to have her planks fastened and caulked, which was done in ten or twelve days, and she was once more 156 INQUIRIES OP rHiti m t launched into her element. Several schooners were driven ashore from their anchors in various parts of the lake, and one of them quite into the wood, so violent was the storm ; but I have heard of no total wrecks. Arrived safe at Port Stanley or Kettle Creek, where there are two piers just finished, to keep the sand from blocking the mouth of the river ; but it is so much exposed, that the entire accomplishment is very doubtful. Lake Erie has also had a more extrenie boundary than at the present time, which is particularly evident at both ends of it, and as high up as Long Point, from the lower end, and nearly or quite across to Lake Ontario. I should suppose, by the sandbanks and other evident former boundaries, that the water in Lake Erie has stood thirty or forty feet higher than now. The Indians have a tradition^ that both lakes formerly joined. - ^^*This fall (1828) has been unusually sickly at the lower part of the province, particularly near the shores of Lake Ontario^ supposed to be in consequence of the very extraordinary high water in the lakes this season,* being three or four feet higher than was ever known before on both the lakes ; but the generally high banks of Erie prevented any ill effects. There has been a report that the high water was caused by the breaking away of some portion of the land-barrier in the river between Lake Superior and Huron. 11 It is generally asserted and believed, that the water ia the lakes rises annually for seven successive years, and then gradually sinks that number, alternately. That it has been rising the last two years, is a fact. ■—:. z . AN EMIGRANT. 157 May 1, 1829. — Winter mild, dry, and open till the middle of February, when we had a little snow and some sharp frost, but no rain, and the frost not steady ; indeed, only a few days sleighing together, occasionally, till the latter end of March, when the snow entirely cleared off; and some few showers of rain came about the 1st of April; but the swamps have not been filled at all this spring. July 18. — The month of May was rather hot through- out ; thermomete" as high as 8G degrees at times, which brought on the crops very rapidly. June, and up to the present time cool, pleasant weather; thermometer 10 degrees below what it was in May. All kinds of crops good, particularly the wheat, which is elegant, as the Americans term it, and of very superior quality. xi\v^ , There is a great variety of timber in this country : a short sketch of the most valuable, and the uses to which it is applied, is subjoined. It generally stands pretty thick on the ground, from one to six or eight yards apart : white-oak, good for ship-building ; staves, and square timber for exportation, wheelwrights, coopers, &c. Red and swamp oak, fit for rails and other inferior purposes, but bad to burn. Pine, for shingle boards, and other lumber, building, &c. Black walnut, cherry, and curled maple, for cabinet work. Young hickory, for flails, axe-handles, handspikes, and horsewhips, hoops, &c. Basswood (lime-tree or linden), used by coach and chair makers, for its lightness, and for bars instead of gates, — holes being made in the posts to let them inside, which are used in the new settlements : basswood bark, for ropes. Butternut-tree and cedar, for bar-posts, &c. Sugar-maple and two other sorts, for 158 INQUIRIES OF firewood. Chestnut and white wood, for boards, and the former, with two or three sorts of ash and hickory, for rails. Hemlock and oak bark, for tanning. Button- wood (sycamore); beech, two sorts; elm, two sorts; birch, two sorts ; locust, balm of Gilead (very large), sassafras, juniper, tamrisk, &c. Trees here, in general, are not so tough as in England, except those that stand open and exposed. The method pursued, on going into the woods (or bush, as it is termed) to settle, is, to clear a proper site for a house, and cut logs for that purpose into proper lengths. This can be done in a week by one person. He then invites his neighbours to raise it, which they will do in a day. He has then to build a chimney ; the bottom of stones, the top wattled with small lathwood, and plastered with tempered clay ; the hearth to be laid with stones, if bricks are not made in the neighbour- hood. [They are made in all the old settled parts, and sold at about from 23s. to 30s. per thousand]. Boarded floor, — the boards to be procured at a saw-mill, if one be near ; if not, some split and hewed logs will answer the purpose.* If the settler arrives on his lot in the spring, which is best, or early in the summer, he next clears off a piece of ground for potatoes and com, the first summer, by chopping the trees down about four feet from the ground ; he then cuts them into fourteen • Saw and grist mills cost from 180/. to 600/. in erecting, according to the expense in making the dam, and the man- ner in which they are finished. A single saw, with plenty of water, will cut from 800 to 2000 feet per day, according to the water-power and the kind of wood, which sells at tiie mills at from 205. to 35s. per 1000 feet superficial measure. AN EMIGRANT. 159 feet lengths, and throws their heads into brush heaps, hauls the logs into heaps, six or eight in each, with a yoke of oxen, and a hand or two to help ; he then bums them, as well as the brush heaps, and preserves the ashes, if a potashery be in the neighbourhood.* Ob- serve, when felling the trees, to bring them down along- side each other as much as possible, and their heads where you make the brush heaps ; and be careful they do not fall on yourself, for should one lodge on another that is standing, it is dangerous getting it down, to one unacquainted with the business; besides, the boughs breaking, are often propelled back with great force. There are too often people killed by trees in new set- tlements, where several are at work together, and all new beginners. Plant the corn and potatoes without ploughing, as before described. Now clear more land in the same way for wheat, to be sown in the fall; and afterwards some for oats, next spring, for the cattle — each to be only harrowed in, without ploughing. Set- tlers generally sow Timothy grass among the wheat or oats, but red clover is far preferable by itself or mixed with the former, or (could it be procured) good rye or vernal grass. White or Dutch clover generally springs up in a year or two, spontaneously on some land, yet perhaps it would be better to sow it if it could be pro- cured, as it would come immediately, and be more uniform. A good chopper will chop an acre or more of moderately heavy timber in a week, and in making * Ashes are generally preserved in little log* houses made on the spot for the purpose, to be kept dry for sale in the winter, to merchants, at 5d. per Imshel, or to steep them yourself in water, and boil the lye until evaporated to black salts (coarse potash), to be sold at from 95. to lbs. ■■I ■t II IGO tNQUIRIES OP li a bee for logging, four or five acres can be drawn into heaps in a day, by giving As. or S*. worth of whisky and something to eat ; but of course you must assist at the lieea of others if required. Tliere are generally plenty of people willing to go to bees, for the sake of the com- pany and the whisky, and frolic at night. They work briskly at these bees, and in good humour, striving against each other. To a person who is about to settle on entire wood- land, I would recommend the following system : after well clearing a few acres in the immediate vicinity in which the house is intended to be built, and all round, that the trees left standing may be at sufficient dis- tance to be out of danger of falling on it, and a small piece fenced off for cattle to lie in at night, out of the same danger, in windy weather; then cut down, on ten or fifteen acres, the lall and decayed trees and underbrush, burn them, and girdle the remainder of the trees ; sow this ground with wheat early in the fall, or part with oats in the spring, and with them clover, and a small quantity of grass seeds mixed ; the clover grass to be mowed the first year or two, and grazed afterwards. Do the same the next year with some more, for six or seven years in succession, and likewise clear a small piece quite off) for corn and potatoes, cabbages, &c. in front of the house, and next to the road or street. In about six or seven years the roots of the trees will be rotten, and some of the girdled ones fallen ; then begin and chop down ten or fifteen acres of these girdled trees, yearly, in a dry time, felling them across each other to break them into pieces ; put fire into them in various parts of the field, and it will ■\ AN EMIGRANT. 161 bum most of them up; what little may be left uncon- sumed, must be collected into heaps and burnt. It is necessary to keep a watch over the fences while this is going on, that they do not take fire. After this you may plough, and plant what you please, as generally the ground will be in pretty good condition. This system is pursued in some plains, and ought to be more generally adopted, particularly the first few years of entering upon an entire wild farm, on account of the little trouble at a time there is so much else to do. But some object, and say there is too much danger that the cattle will be killed by the falling of the girdled trees, and the fences also broken. To which I answer, cattle need not be near them, only a little in the fall of the first two years, as the clover and grass will be mown for hay; and they may be put there only in still wea- ther afterwards, and in the day time ; and as to the fences, after cutting out the decayed standing trees, and a few of those that stand near, and have an incli- nation towards them, there will be but few, if any, rails broken by their falling ; and if there should be a few, they can soon be replaced, as one man will cut and split five or six rods of fence in a day, and put it up, if the timber be good. In choosing a farm, or lot of wild land, or indeed, any land in this country, it should always be first ascertained if there be plenty of good rail timber growing thereon, such as oak, hickory, ash, cedar, chestnut, pine, butternut, cherry, and black walnut ; but good trees of the two latter kind, I would never use for that purpose, as they now are useful, and will be in a few years very valuable, for furniture, &c., as there are, comparatively speaking, but few in the Hi 102 INQUIRIES OP country, and none of walnut much below the hond of Luko Ontario. Nor would I recommend wasting fine Ktraight white oak that is growing near any water com- munication, au it iH valuable foi Htaves, &c. And the sugar maple tree, if growing in what is culled bushes, that is a number together, should never be wantonly destroyed, as it is a useful and valuable appendage to u farm. If the above system be adopted, there will be but very little ploughing the first few years, and only one yoke of oxen be required. But should it be thought prudent to clear all the timber off the land ut once, it should always, as nmcli as possible, be sown the first or second year with clover, or clover and grass seeds, to lie until the stumps are rotten before being ploughed ; when fire should be put into each stump, and the greater part will burn up. Near towns and villages, almost all kind of wood is valuable as cord wood for fuel, and when drawn in, sold at from Gn. 9(L to 9s. or 10«. per cord. Good pine, growing near a lake, or river communicating with one, is becoming valuable. Near the Otter Creeks, land can be had cleared for the pines growing thereon. I have sometimes heard it asserted in this country, that a farm cannot be cultivated to a profit in America, if the whole of the labour done on it be hired ; which I am confident is erroneous. That some are not, in tlie way they arc managed, I readily admit; but that, under judicious management, they cannot be, — my little experience convinces me of the contrary. To make it intelligible, I will state the whole hired expenses, and the value of the produce of a small farm, for a year ; and if it can be proved that a profit, however small, AN BMinn\NT. 103 niny be made on the cultivatinn of seventy acres only, of cleared land, when the luhour is all hired, it will appear evident that a worthy fanner and two or three Muns doing all, or only part of tluH work, must he im- proving his circumstances, and that a larger farm may he managed to a proportionate profit. A farm of good land can be purchased on, or about Talbot-street, or almost any where in the western part of the province, and the back settlements of the middle parts, at from 2i dollars (11«. llf.) to 5 dollars (22«. (id.) per acre; and at but a moderate advance, exclusive of buildings, according to situation, &c., in any part of the province. I have calculated the statement in dollars at in. (id, sterling. •' ' ' ' A farm of 200 acres ; 70 <;U'ared ; with a {^ood log, or small frame house, or burti, and a youn}; orchard, &c('. ; 200 acreS) say at 4 dollars, or IBx. per acre, 800 dollars, or 180/. ; — 100 dollars, or 22/. \0s. paid down as part of the pur- chase, and 22/. 10.s. yearly, and interest until paid, of the remainder. A person with 200/. may settle very comfortably on such a farm, and cover all necessary outgoings ; and th<; following items would be required. DoUar«. As stock, &c., two yoke of oxen, one well broken yoke, 45 dollars^ one yoke of steers, unbroken, 35 dollars . 80 Three ox chains, 12 dollars; two yokes, 3 do. ; sled, 5 do. 20 A horse (or brood mare) to ride, go to mill, &c., plough between potatoes, corn, £cc. . . . . .50 Light Jersey waggon, second hand (a new one would be 65 dollars), with spring seat, both for pleasure and profit, 50 dollars ; harness, 10 dollars ; and saddle, 15 dollars 75 Two ploughs, 18 dollars ; harrows, 6 dollars ; two axes, 5 dollars ; hoes, 6cc. 3 dollars . . . .32 Six cows at 15 dollars each, six calves and heifers at 5 dollars 120 Two sows, 6 dollars ; thirty store pigs at 1 dollar each iHi \ Twenty sheep at 1^ dollar each 25 Geese, fowls, &cc., 5 dollars 5 m2 i \CA INQUIRIES OF Brouffht forward dollars 443 Koiisciiold furniture — three beds and bedding, 50 dol- lars ; tables, 10 dollars; crockery, 10 dollars; pots and kettles, 10 dollars ; clock, 15 dollars; common chairs, \ dollar each ; painted Windsor ones, one to two dollars each, say 10 dollars .... The first deposit, towards payment of farm 117 100 148/. 10s., or 660 One Year's Outgoings and Expenses. (jiidling ten acres of woods, clearing out the underb:ush and fern, 5 dollars per acre . . . . . Seed wheat for the same (IJbushel per acre), at f dollar per bushel ........ Sovsing and harrowing of ditto . . . . I'en acres wheat sown after peas, ploughing 2 dollars per acre .•«•.... Seed as above, 9 dollars ; sowing and harrowing 5 dollars ('■,; dling and binding the 20 acres, at 1 J dollar per acre darting and stacking, 23 dollars . . . . Thrashing 360 bushels, at one-tenth of a dollar . Suppose ten acres of clover sown the year before with oats at 7 lbs. per acre (often only three or four lbs. sown) Mowing first crop early clover for hay, f dollar per acre j getting together, 1 dollar (it wanting no making), and hauling together, If dollar .... Mowing the second crop for seed, &:c. Thrashing the seed, two bushels produce per acre, at 1 dollar per bushel . . .... Ten acres ploughed for peas, 2 dollars per acre (often done for 1^ dollar) ; seed for ditto, three bushels (generally only two), at J dollar per bushel . Sowing and harrowing, 5 dollars ; thrashing 50 bushels, 3 dollars ........ [The remainder, 150, give to hogs in the straw un- thrashed, if the straw be not good for sheep and cattle, i. e. not got well) ; but if good, I would recommend it being given to the sheep, lightly thrashed, as the very best food to be had here for them, and which they are very fond of]. Four acres of oats for calves, sheep, milch cows and horse, the seed three bushels per acre, at |^ dollar per bushel, 3 dollars ; ploughing, &i.c. 10 dollars . 50 9 ■20 14 30 23 27 8 35 35 20 35 8 13 AN EMIGRANT. 165 65 24 Brought forward . dollars 332 Six acres corn, ploughing twice, 18 dollars ; planting and harrowing, 4 dollars ; two hoeings, 9 dollars ; ploughing between the rows, 2 dollars ; husking, &c. 12 dollars ; hauling and thrashing, and seed, 10 dollars Eight acres in Timothy or other grass, for hay, mowing and stacking, as for clover ..... Twelve acres in sheep pasture Two acres for potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and other vegetables for house (chiefly), sheep, calves, &c. ; hiring a stout boy at 5 dollars per month, and board for a year, to attend cattle, milk, &c. To the above expenses may be added one year's interest of the purchase money, yet unpaid ; being 6 per cent, on 700 dollars 100 42 Total 563 Produce of the 70 Acres. Twenty acres of wheat, at 1 8 bushels per acre (some- times thirty), at f dollar per bushel Ten acres of clover seed, at two bushels per acre, and seven dollars per bushel Six acres of Indian corn, 25 bushels per acre, 1 50 bushels, at } dollar Thirty store pigs* (for fattening next season) Thirty fat hogs, weighing, at least, 200 lbs. each (or one barrel), thirty barrels at 12 dollars per barrel Six cows, butter and cheese for summer A yoke of fat oxen, 60 dollars (besides a cow or two killed for the house) Twenty lambs 20 dollars, and twenty fleeces of wool 20 dollars Geese, feathers, eggs, fowls, &c One year's farm produce Ditto expenses Surplus 270 140 75 30 360 60 60 40 . 10 1045 563 dollars 482 • Five bushels of Indiau corn, or peas, will fatten a fresh store hog, or keep one through the winter ; they get their living in the woods and pastures during the summer, also during the winter when uuts are plentiful, which generally happens three years out of five. I 1 f i si ' i i mil It. A I ' 1, 166 INQUIRIES OF ' With the beef and vegetables allowed above, 282 dollars will keep a family of four or five persons well during the year, leaving a clear profit of 200 dollars, or '45?., besides the improvement of the farm; and if hemp or tobacco were made part of the productions, the profits, probably, would be larger. No one that is well acquainted with Canada, will, I think, say that I have made a partial statement. Some may think I have stated the number of fat hogs on so small a farm in one season, too high, as there are but a very few farmers that fatten so many. 1 allow there are not many; yet as there are some that do, and as I have allowed sufficient grain for the purpose, if there be any nuts at all in the woods, that objection, of course, falls to the ground. It would be to the interest of the Canadian farmers, particularly those in back settle- ments, to pay more attention than they now^ do, both to the breeding and feeding of hogs. There is too little spirit and taste for improvements, for want of a proper stimulus. As there is comparatively but little capital vested in farming pursuits, there are no leading characters to introduce, or excite, a spirit of improve- ment. For this ^^ irpose I would strongly recommend the immediate establishment of agricultural societies in each district. They have been established in Lower Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick, as well as in the United States, with very general success and benefit to the community ; and as the Upper Canadians have an emulative spirit, I am confident their intro- duction would produce a spirit of eiiterprlsf equal to that of any country. If farms were set npnrt in each district for the purpose, and conducl^^ b^ a competent AN EMIGRANT. 16: person, the most approved system of farming intro- duced, and the improved breeds of cattle, sheep, &c'., selected and imported, with superior implements of husbandry, and clover, grass, and other seeds cultivated, with an annual exhibition and sale by auction of the same, and appropriate premiums given for agricultural improvements, &c., the best effects would certainly result to the whole community, and particularly to the agricultural part of it. A;iid if these farms, stocks, &c. were judiciously arranged, I think they might be made even a profitable concern. Hemp, tobacco, and clover seed, may be made enrich- ing staple articles in the western part of the province, and to the advaiitage of the trade of Great Britain. The finest clover seed can be raised, and by the agency of thrashirg machines, brought to market early enough to be shipped to Europe in the same season. There is a species of wild cotton growing about the fields, which, of an improved kind, perhaps, might be of some ser- vice in stuffing mattresses, &c., or to the manufacturer. Every person must perceive the great advantages of the provinces of Canada over the United States, with regard to a market for the produce jf the two coun- tries. Canada can export to Great Britain timber, grain, whisky, pork, hemp, clover, tobacco, and any other produce at all times, on paying a trifling duty ; while the States often cannot export some of the articles to Britain at all, except through Canada; and then, and in every other case, by paying higher duties than the Canadas. ., ,., f ' V^R'. ■i:i-:.f'X;^ !..•■% 'fO ti^j-; ;Jf';>lyif,.Tf^>-> .»j 'jry l»«^.^:■ -wS t HJ. ••^^h 1G8 INQUIRIES OF CHAPTER IX. Departure from Upper Canada to Quebec^ and Return to England. July 22, 1829. — Left the western part of the pro- vmce with a vessel load of lumber for the lower part, by the way of Fort Erie and the Falls, landed on the 24th, and forwarded the lumber by Durham boats to Chippawa, eighteen miles, to be drawn in waggons across the Portage. August 18. — Arrived at Kingston in a steam boat from Niagara and York (a considerable influx of new store-keepers into York this season), and left it on the 20th for Prescott, down what is called the river, having the main land on the left, broken into numerous little bays and inlets. On the right hand, hundreds of islands of all sizes, from eight or ten miles across, to as many rods only. We sometimes passed between two of them, so near each, that an active person could almost leap from the steam boat deck on either hand. These islands are still retained in the hands of govern- ment, generally ; and aro not inhabited, being in most places too barren, except on the south sides, where some squatters have made clearings, and settled, for making rafi». Stopped a few minutes at some places in our passage down. Brockville is a handsome improving village. AN EMIGRANT. 169 with two churches, and a number of good stone-built houses. Stone wall fence is a new feature, and well- cleared fields appear more like England than this new country. The land is kindly and good, with a fine slope from half a mile back to the river's edge, which is more than a mile across, and nearly uniform banks. The Canada side appears the best cleared and settled, with large fields of twenty acres each, free from stumps, but not from stones; and the grass, although the weather is dry and hot, has a freshness not common at this time of year. Very fine situations as far as Prescott, with good substantial farm houses. August 24. — Arrived at Prescott, nearly opposite Ogdansburgh, on the States' side the river, a town much larger than Prescott, but not so thriving, from the latter place being the lowest part of the river that lake-vessels and steam boats can run to ; of course, the produce is landed to be put in Durham boats and bat- teaux for Montreal, and the passengers go by the same or the stages. The latter run every day in the week, except Sunday, during summer ; steam boats also arrive every day from different parts of the lake and bay of Quintre. The charge 31s. Gd. to Montreal, 140 miles, by stage and steam boats, in one day. Almost all the villages are commercial ones, and thrive or decay ac- cording as traffic and trade increase, or are directed into other channels. WIhmi Hm Ilidtuiii ranal is finished, this place will cease to thrive. Houses are built of stone chiefly, and some pretty large. Excellent wharfs and warehouses both here and at Brockville, also three churches, and a Methodist meeting-house, very near each other. The English and Scotch churches are .t 170 INQUIRIES OF built exactly of the same pattern, one on each side ; the other is Roman Catholic. Some of the land about Prescott is very good red loam on a limestone rock, some indifferent, and others bad ; sandy banks or swampy hollows, and in places covered with fragments of rock ; the wheat crops are all just in, but corn not near ripe, a fortnight later than in the south-western part of the province. Clover and grass grow on this loamy soil very luxuriantly, but the farms are not well managed, as there is not much of either skill or capital employed in agriculture, most other trades and branches of industry being conducted with more advantage. Snow here last winter was four feet ; two and a half at York, and ten or twelve in the west. ■ ■'^'"' -^^ •■v<- .y decent, respectable appear- ance, others a picture of squalid poverty. Some have no point fixed as their destination ; others have, near some friends come before. One party for Talbot-street, were going to Burlington at the head of the lake, when they would have 100 miles of land carriage t>> haul their luggage ; while by Queenston, ChippaA -*, and Lake Erie, there are only eight miles by land. ■ «* '*« * August 30. — Left Prescott for Montreal, with several other passengers in a batteau or Canadian boat, in pre- ference to the stage and steam boats, both for cheapness of passage (4*. 6c?. only), — ; . p :rti .u^ly to see the Rapids, which we had to < u down.. ii ^ oimtry has a fine appearance along f e rivvv ai' u Li^^d ? Doears good, ,?j *^ AN EMIGRANT. 171 except in a few places. On coming to each rapid, the boatmen (French Canadians) being Roman Catholics perform slight and quick acts of ceremonial devotion, the captains or conductors particularly, there being danger in some of them, for, should they not keep directly in the proper channels down these shoals, or the boatmen not keep the vessel steady and head-foremost, they are indeed almost certain to be upset and lost. These Rapids are very grand, and repay for once what risk there may be in going down them, and in fine weather, with a good boat and experienced men, I do not con- ceive there is much danger. The Long Saut, a rapid of nine miles in length, is very narrow and swift; this distance, it is said, with a light loaded boat and wind favourable, has been run in fifteen minutes, but it took us full double that time. Crossed too small lakes, in places quite shallow ; steam boats ply across them. Both sides of the St. Lawrence are in Canada. In Lower Canada the houses are all built in French fashion, and occupied by French Canadians. A house nearly every hundred yards along the river banks, chiefly of one story, with long roofs, and one door in front ; two win- dows on one side of the door, and one on the other, and two or three at the ends of the house; and garrets. Many stud-built and lath-plastered, and often rough- cast and white-washed. Their barns are thatched, but in a rough manner; the Americans call it shingling with straw! The Canadians are tolerably neat and clean in their houses, and excepting the boatmen, and a few of the lower classes, in their persons also ; they >re of a nankeen, fresh colour ; not many of them in the C4 nutry speak much English. We have passed several i)'il X f 172 INQUIRIES OF pleasant villages on our route : — Cornwall, in Upper Canada, Cota-dulac and Lachine, in Lower Canada, are agreeably situated, and apparently thriving by the trade froYn the Upper Province. Numbers of boats and bat- teaux going up, which, in the Rapids, have to be pulled and hauled with horses and oxen. In some places there are locks to go through in going up, to avoid the worst parts. It takes five or six days, and sometimes more, going up from Montreal to Prescott, and two and a half down. Entered Lachine canal, nine miles above Montreal. This canal is cut to avoid the Lachine Rapids, the most dangerous and lowest on the river, of any importance. It is small, admitting only boats. The first night we put ashore after dark, at a tavern kept by a Dutchman, to sleep ; and although the boatmen assured us he was a person of some property, he had miserable accommo- dations. The second night stopped at Cota-dulac, at a French tavern ; a good house, but the beds all taken by travellers, and too late to seek farther, so we had some of us to be content with " a bunk," or a " shake down," (sleep on a bed laid on the floor), no very un- common thing for travellers in America. Warm weather of late, but some rain and thunder last night has cooled the air. Left Lachine in a caleche, or calash, drawn by one horse, to Montreal ; this was the first time I saw the pluck and spirit of the little Cana- dian or French horse. It is astonishing what heavy weights they draw, — thorough bottom, not handsome, thick, bony, and fat, with hairy fetlocks. In carting wood, stone, &c., about town, one person will manage three or more carts with one horse each : he drives the , AN EMIGRANT. 173 first, the others follow close after. The first tavern I stopped at in Montreal, I paid 4«. 6d. per day for board and lodging ; but after a few days I removed to another, with very good accommodations, at 2.v. 3d. per day. Montreal is a large and improving place, and of great trade. Merchants from the Upper Province come here once a year for a supply of merchandise for the coming year, and take the money for the last year's produce sent down. A considerable number of them are in the town at the present time. Some of the streets are too narrow, particularly St. Paul's- street, in which a great deal of the wholesale business is done ; the footways only three or four feet wide. Some of the streets are tolerably well paved, others roughly; and M'Adamising going for- ward in some of them. Houses are mostly of stone, neat, strong, and capacious ; and if it were not for their high sharp tinned roofs, would have much the appearance of a large town in England. No private warehouses ; goods are landed on a high made bank, and in some places on the beach of the river, and then hauled up to the warehouses. The immense accumu- lation of ice in the winter, lias carried away some ware- houses that had been built. Several vessels from Europe, and steam-boats, are continually coming and going to various parts up and down the river, and such is the opposition by the two companies that run them between Montreal and Quebec, that each lias one boat that carries passengers between the tv.o places, 180 miles, in the cabin, and board, for 7*. 6d. and the deck passengers for (id. each only ! The most remark- able attraction in the place is the new Roman Catholic church, the largest in America, and not surpassed in M M ! I II V, il! 174 INQUIRIES OF «izc by a great many in Europe, covering, it is said, an acre of land, and accommodating 12,000 people. It is truly a grand stone building, elegantly and substantially finished. Sunday, Sept. 7. — At the Catholic church, about six or seven thousand people. The sermon was in Frencli; congregation not large. I was also at the Episcopal church; small and neat; no sermon. I also stepped into the Methodist, and one of the Presbyterian meet- ings, which were well-built places, and had considerable congregations; shops all shut up, and no b' nnei.s going «)n. The first settlers were of course French (belong- ing to France when first settled), and a considerable portion yet remain so ; but most of the merchants and traders are Americans and Europeans — chiefly Scotch. The sides of the canal locks, at Montreal, are built of hard cut stone (got somewhere in the vicinity) ; the bottoms are of the same material, and the locks and the masonry excellent. Two large warehouses not far from its outlet, and three or four windmills. The fondness of the French Canadians for windmills is rather remark- able, when the river St. Lawrence, for 100 miles im, is full of rapids, and the water could easily be applied to any kind of machinery. A remarkable high mountain at the back of the town (Mount Royal, or Mont-re-all, as it is here pronounced), from which it derives its name ; it can only be ascended in a few places. It is broken into two heads, and an excellent road passes between them, and round the back of it, three or four miles in length. Its top and sides are covered with brushwood and small trees. In some places it is nearly u perpendicular rock, with broken fragments, and large I ■III 1 1 AN EMKiRANT. 175 masses lie tumbled and scattered at its base. It has evidently been overflown with water, and probably was, afterwards, an island in the original large lake, bounded^ perhapH, by the New England and Kaatskill mountains^ as before supposed. There are pleasant seats, owned by the merchants, between the town and mountain, and round the foot of it. If not for the extremes of climate, this might be considered almost a paradise. Along the public road, round, and over part of the mountain, is a beautiful drive, having a fine perspective view of the town and country in every direction. The race-ground is on one side of the mountain, where the horses are daily train- ing, '['here is a pack of fox-hounds kept in the neigh- bourliood of Montreal, and a hunting club established. On their first introduction, the Canadians thought the Europeans were all going mad; and laughed at the ridiculous idea of being pleased by galloping after a fox! Large auction sales of merchandise every day, the place full of bustle and business, and but few com- plaints ; scores of women are to be seen daily, along the sides of the rivpt . above and below the town, in the water, washing 'thes among the huge stones, on which they beat the clothes with a kind of mallet, instead of rubbing tiiem. nnc^ appear to use but little soap — an excellent way for the good of trade, as the clothes are soon pounded to pieces. The two markets are better supplied than most markets on the continent of North America, and goods reasonably cheap, parti- cularly within these few years since, as there has been some spirit of enterprise excited by emigration. At- tended au agricultural show, and was glad to perceive I m> I I -f^^- ^ \r ^. w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) !? // ^/ ^J', . Scieiioes CorpQiiation 23 WiST MAIN STRKT WfBSYER,N.Y. 14SM (716)873-4503 ■^. ^."t ^^^ '^. ^ ) 4!« 176 INQUIRIES OF some interest taken in it by the attendance of farm firs (or habitons) and the inhabitants generally; and although but a small show, there were a few good Leicestershire sneep, and one or two good bulls, but the cows rather indifferent; a few good hogs, and a number of very useful brood mares and foals, some Canadian, and some English half-bloods. These are very useful institutions, and ought to be more extended and patronised in both provinces. On some conspicuous part of almost every large farm hereabouts, there is a wooden cross set up, and ridiculously surmounted by a wooden weathercock. Crossing one of these farms, I saw a piece of sward land, manured with common farm dung ; and the good effect was equal to any thing I had seen in England, although it was badly spread. A few years back, I am told, people hired others to take it out of the way, to either throw it into the river, or lay it in heaps out of town ! The large quantities of dung necessarily made in such a place as Montreal, and the apparently little value set upon it even now, by the heaps thrown into holes and treading to waste, — the goodness and cheap- ness of old cleared land, free from stumps (about 51. to 6/. only per acre) in the neighbourhood, — and the com- parative plenty and low price of labour (30*. to S5s. and board per month), point this place out as an eligible part for enterprising farmers with some capital, for any kind of produce, particularly, I think, for the raising of hemp and clover, as there are no taxes. Hemp grows very luxuriantly about yards and fences, and the labour required for manufacturing it for sale may be done in the winter, when other work is scarce, and labourers, of course, plenty ; and as government will purchase any AN EMIGRANT. 177 quantity, and premiums are given, I think it would prove a most profitable speculation. A rope-walk in connexion, would succeed excellently. Winter wheat is but little sown in Lower Canada as yet; but a Canadian inform!* me he knew a small piece this season that answered extremely well, much better than the spring wheat, yet farmers are afraid to try much on account of the severity of the winter ; but I think their fears are groundless, as the snow would preserve it. Several days racing, which were numerously attended. Some good horses, and carried on with considerable spirit, with a good deal of betting, and it is said, not a little jockeying. An English horse here, and two or three English jockeys. Houses in the city are covered with tin, cut in diamond shapes, and also the churches. It is very bright and durable, and the dryness of climate keeps it from rusting ; this, with sheet-iron shutters to the windows and doors, in the best streets, is a great preventive of fire. Sept. 2, — Was sultry, close, and warm, thermometer 80 degrees, some little rain came, and wind changed to the north-west; and the next morning it was chilling cold, then not much above 40 degrees. Large floats of timber hourly passing down the river to Quebec, from the upper province. Sept. 23. — Left Montreal, for Quebec, at eight o'clock at night, in the John Molson steamer, and arrived at three o'clock the following day ; distance, 180 miles; paid 18^. for a cabin berth. The river ot. Lawrence is truly called noble, and the scenery in many places along its banks is grand. Passed some smart villages and towns ; and the roads are thickly studded N ih II T 178 INQUIRIES OF with long-roofed, neat, white houses ; and the churches, with their tin-covered roofs and aspiring pinnacles glistening in the sun, have an enlivening appearance. It' is a pity the river has so many obstructions to navi- gation at its upper part ; ap, otherwise, it would be the most commercial stream in the world. There is only one slight rapid between Montreal and Quebec (the Richelieu), or indeed the Ocean, nearly 1000 miles, and that is only difficult for large rafts in adverse winds, its course being narrow, but deep. The tide running a little above it, there is no rapid at high water. Anticosta is a very large island, dangerous to naviga- tion, lying across the gulf. Vessels of any size are now invariably towed up by steamers from Quebec to Montreal. // iBigwaiJ f^ For the timber trade, Quebec is of great and growing importance. This season, nearly 800 vessels have already arrived, and numbers are daily arriving, — too many, indeed,, as the lowness of the water in the rivers this spring has prevented a great portion of the best timber being brought to market. The consequence is a rise in price of from 50 to 100 per cent. The best of the timber growing near the shores of the St. Lawrence and lower part of Lake Ontario, has been brought to market; and when the Upper Canada canals are opened there will be a fine field for the industrious lumberer in the immense forests of superior timber, growing on the shores of lakes Erie and Huron, and even Lake Superior, and their tributary streams, which are inex- .}]^ustible for centuries to come. ? ■ ''f < The time is not far distant when vessels will be built on the Upper Lakes, 1500 miles from the sea, and i AN EMIGRANT. i7y freighted thence for Europe and the West Indies. Indeed, one is already built for that purpose, and is now plying on Lake Erie, waiting the completion of the canals. On approaching Quebec, the river for miles was lined along its sides with ships loading lumber. *rt V > Quebec is situated on a point of land (Cape Diamond), on the north-west side of the river, and opposite to Point Levi, nine miles above the falls of Montmorency, and five or six above the island of Orleans. The old town is a narrow, inconvenient, and dirty place : it is situated under the immense rocks of hard black stone which rise almost perpendicularly in some places, several hundred feet, nearly all round the Cape ; its length is, extending upwards to Wolfe's Cove (the place where General Wolfe landed on taking Quebec) two miles, and downward to St. Roche, at the mouth of the St. Charles's River, two miles. Near the latter there are many new wharfs built, some ship -yards, steam and saw mills, &c. The river St. Charles is a fine stream, running through an extensive vale of good land, open, cleared, and pretty well cultivated, partly by Scotch and Irish. Viewing this vale from the heights of Abraham, in fine weather, awakens recollections of a former view of one of the beautiful champaign vales of England. — The Upper Town is much better built, having wider streets, and is altogether more handsome ; it is founded upon the above-mentioned rock, overlook- ing the Lower Town, the shipping, the country north of the Isle of Orleans, and Point Levi, across the river. The Upper Town is walled in, and is amazingly strong both by nature and art, particularly the citadel, on the ^ highest and outennost point of Cape Diamond, and is n2 11 !i 1 i'iif;' « 180 INQUIRIES OF still improving. Strangers are not allowed ingress to it, without a ticket. It is a second Gibraltar, and tie key of the Canadas. There is a good garrison sta- tioned here, who enliven the place daily with two or three bands of music. There is a small race-ground on the plains. Land in the neighbourhood appears very good, and cultivated chiefly by Scotch, I believe. The grass fields are more luxuriant than I expected, having that deep verdure so natural to England. I have noticed that the pasture land had a fresher appearance the lower I came down the province, attributable, perhaps, to the greater damp- ness of climate ; the approximation to the sea has some effect, for there have been far more misty, foggy days together since I have been in Quebec, than I have ever seen in the Upper Provinces. The hedges about Quebec are of the native thorn, and grow well ; but they are badly managed, not having ditches to protect them; and it is evident the people know nothing of improving by cutting and plashing. Dogs are much used for drawing trucks, &c. and it is astonishing what weights they will haul up the steep roads to the Upper Town.^" As the assizes or courts of justice were open both here and at Montreal, I had an opportunity of witness- ing the manner of conducting them, which is much the same as in England, with perhaps a little more solemnity. As juries are generally a mixture of French and Europeans, it is necessary for the evidence to be interpreted in whichever language it be given in. Tho courts were crowded with spectators, who behaved with more becoming gravity and decorum than I have often seen in courts in England. 1 1 AN EMIGRANT. 181 Ca»":'.dians on Sunday flock to their churches, witli Prayer books in their hand, a decent deportment, and generally clean and neat, if not respectably attired. As Irish Catholics that emigrate, mostly go to the States, would it not be good feeling to settle them liberally in Lower Canada, where their own religious rites are per- formed? They would make loyal subjects, and neu- tralize the political influence of the French Canadians, without exciting enmity, and probably introduce the English language and customs more generally. Attended an agricultural meeting two miles out of Quebec, and was highly gratified by the excellent show of cabbages (drumheads), savoys, &c., carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, celery, onions, &c. and all good. A sample of wheat, pretty good, but shorter than it grows in Upper Canada. Some tolerable samples of barley, and a kind called mountain barley; it is naked, and has some appearance of large rye, but more of common barley with its skin taken off; also good English oats. Fine apples, pears, &c. Ploughing, with cast iron ploughs, two horses abreast, and held without exception by old country people, Irish or Scotch, eight or ten ploughs and the ploughing good. The Canadians gene- rally use clumsy wheel ploughs, drawn by a yoke of oxen, and a horse for a leader. Some pretty good cattle shewn. The society consists altogether of settlers, or nearly so, and practical farmers. I was sorry to see so few people at it. There has been another show and ploughing match since, by another agricultural society, open to all com- petitors. It was well attended, and the Canadians joined in competition for the premiums. I am in- f li S' I 182 INQUIRIES OF formed, the show of both cattle and vegetables would have been a credit to most countries. To return to the former society, I will copy an ex- tract respecting it from the Star Newspaper : — " This is the third exhibition of this small society, which was formed about three years ago by a few of the most eminent practical farmers in the vicinity of Quebec. The constitution of this society requiring that the committee of management should always be composed of practical farmers. The original founders of the society have hitherto had the management of affairs ; and the manner in which it has been conducted will be best appreciated by those who witnessed the exhibition on Friday last. There was, to be sure, besides the great improvement in ploughing, such samples of farm- stock, vegetables, grain, &c. as are rarely to be met with in this part of the world. Several public -spirited individuals, who are not practical farmers, have from time to time en- rolled therpselves as members, which strengthened the funds, and enabled the committee to extend the prizes this y&u. beyond the two preceding ones. As great things often arise from small beginnings, may this society continue to prosper, till it shall have raised a spirit of emulation amongst all classes of farmers, so as to have the effect of raising the agri- cultural character of Lower Canada to an equality in respect, with that of any other part of the world : then will it have fulfilled the wishes and intentions of its founders, and be an honour to their names after they have bade adieu to this world, and a lasting benefit to their offspring in after genera- tions. I have often wondered that the Quebec Agricultural Society, having the command of the public money for the encouragement of agriculture, should never have thought of giving any public aid to this society. It appears to me, that a little money laid out in this way would turn to good account. *' Signed, A Farmer." Great and general complaints are made by shippers and masters of vessels, respecting the port regulations at Quebec, and the want of attention to their interests generally. The want of lighthouses in different parts AM EMIGRANT. 183 of the gulf, and river St Lawrence in particular, is a great disadvantage, and an annual loss of property and lives. Oct. 18. — Left Quebec for old England; just five years from the day I left London for America. I go by the way of Limeric, because it is a shorter water passage, something less risk, and at but little more expense, taking my journey across that kingdom into consideration ; as a passage to Ireland is less than to England : 1 should have had to pay to London or Liverpool, in the cabin, 121,, but I pay only 91. for the same to Ireland, which is rather lower this season than usual, on account of the scarcity and lowness of freight. We fortunately cleared the Gulf with a north- west wind, and of course clear weather, in five days, which is rather quick; and arrived in the Shannon in twenty-six days. • moll 1 ib',.. :/ ^ ii llrt 1 ^B^ » " Sij^jifiJ'i 1 ,tj>9q?. n'> iaiifiittii ms^ ti nrv >» «ed{ Kim aa d4 tn -.rii baWMit'i 4jfrii r)i ft? iif©ffort *fiT»«6;). lAfh; »T' ■:■■■(,, :rh , fi-iii ,bfww i toioirf-v. ^iVvvi' "^ yfmi* 9jh •"'' :-•; ;.-,«^; }0 i: U^% ',')|T?> 1 is&i i^m it: rr>--f- -.^i- . , ^tajvig if boog ot ft '^iiil f. ■ ' 1 t ,■:,; ?j',^as«4A/i A ^-■',V^ ,'Jitii JiiiflXJ" anofiBu — V zi^imm bfiA , 8*B9^9iax lULi L>2 oadswO ;*■ 4h&q imiiiHih -«* . « ■ i '.M .> i«-i->^ I »;•,/» tiVJi-! APPENDIX. ,»•.■* '>♦.■' > . No. 1.— Observations. Upper Canada, or that part between the great Lake, is in length from the line that divides it at Lancaster from Lower Canada on the north east, to Sandwich, south west, 500 miles, and its mean breadth, 140 ; containing 70,000 square miles, or 45,000,000 of acres of land. It is divided into ten districts, and in 1809 a law was enacted establishing a school in each district, in which the classics and mathematics are taught, the teacher to have a salary of 100/. ; there were eight established iu 1810, others since ; besides, in 1816 common schools in every township, whose teachers, I believe, are each allowed a salary of fifty dollars from government, and what they can get from those parents sending children to them : these latter schools are very beneficial. A charter and funds have been granted by the home government for the erection of a college in York, for the education of the youth of the province ; there is thus every chance of pro- curing as good an education here, and at much less expense, than in England. No country is naturally better adapted for water carriage than Upper Canada ; and should the canals now in contem- plation be carried into effect, there would be no country of the same extent equal to it in water communication in the world. The following is a summary of particulars connected with the — nuit WESTERN I,AKFS. Name. Length. Width. Depth. Elevation. Ontario 180 miles 40 miles 500 ft. 218 ft. Erie 270 80 Huron 250 100 Michigan 400 60 Green Bay 105 50 Superior 480 109 200 566 000 570 Unknown 900 Above what place, ''i lliree rivers y, Albany , , ', Tide Water '\ ^'■'' Same aa Huron hfti 44 . 1048 Tide Water. The whole of these proposed canals would not, I believe, be in anywise equal in length, though of greater magnitude, ;'■ to those in the state of New York only. The Wei land Canal, }/ which is to unite Lake Ontario with Lake £rie, to avoid the >;; AI'PKNDIX. 18.i Falls, is to be opened in the spring of 1830. Its course placed at a distance from the Lines, to IS avoid interruption in high enough to have opening the case or a war, and enters Lake E three weeks advantage of HutTaloe, in opening tne naviga- tion in the spring — the latter place being blocked up so long by tiie masses of floating icG getting jammed in the narrows and shallows at the bottom of the Lake. The Rideau Canal,' began two years ago by government, is cutting, to avoid the rapids of the river St. Lawrence, above Montreal, and is expected to be complettMl in two years. These two canals will give to the river St. Lawrence the greater part of the trade of upwards of (iUOO miles of coast, by the admission of schooners (and probably steam- boats, ultimately), from the ocean through Lakes Ontario, Erie, St. Clair, and fluron, with a trifling expense by locking a short rapid, to Lake Superior and Michigan. A. canal is also completed on the Slates' side from Lake Erie, through Ohio State to Ohio River, which with the canals on the Canada side, will open a water communication l)etween Quebec and New Orleans, through the centre of America. The Welland Canal will unlock the energies of the west, —the granary of America ! The greater part of the improve- ments in the province have been made since the war (Canada was hardly known in England before, and not now as it de- serves). The influx of money at that period was a great, but short-lived, stimulus to its prosperity, as by it, and the derangement of trade and industry occasioned by the war, idleness and profusion were for a time induced. It is from the want of money (in conjunction with a liberal emigration from home) being introduced in a proper, and of course a profitable manner, that this province is slower in its progress than any other new settled state. Ohio was settled about the same time as Canada, yet that State contains near five times the number of inhabitants, with towns often to twenty thousand each. Is it better situated for trade, or has it greater water communication ? Not any, ^^ and will not be equal to Canada when the canals are com-v pleted. Ts it superior in healthiness of climate ? On the * Farm labourers, who may emigrate to Upper Canada this inm- mer, and the next, get immediate employment on the Rideau Canal, ,{ as tiiey are more used to digging and shovelling titan the Americans. Wages are generally from 45.«. to 5Sh. iid. per month, with board, and work more moderate than on English Canals, .^m^^ v>t c.i ti^uirt If . 1. 180 APPENDIX. contrary, those who have been at both placed allow Canada has the advantage, and its soil fully equal, if not Auperior for general produce ; and thai ilH markets are much superior I will sht^w, by an extia-t of the market prices in Ohio, com- pared with those of Canada : — •.*U» Wheat - - Jndian C*orn Potatoes «eef - - Pork - - Butter - - Kggs - • Wool - - Tallow - - Whiskey - C('iii!« in Ohio. 33.i to 37 i - 12i only 16i to 3 only to 5i 2 n 4 3 33i 6i 12i Cents in Canada. 50 to 95 per bushel ditto 30 ditto 6 per lb. 6 ditto U ditto 50 25 3 10 6 to to to to to to 62 i to 18^ 9 per dozen 50 (generally) per lb. 8 to 12 ditto 25 to 50 ditto I would rec, mend those who intend to marry, to brii.g out wives with them, if thev can get good ones. Women arc wanted ; and though there is no very great scarcity, there are more males ihan females, which is the reverse of England ; therefore it would be a pity to increase the number of the latter, already unavoidably doomed to remain single j and besides, generally speaking, a man will find a woman of his own country more congenial to his habits and taste, as a wife, than any other. This is not a bad country for single females to come to as house servants, they will get from 20s. to SOs. a month ; and, if steady, industrious, and deserving, may probably soon {u they choose) become the mistress of a house of their own. Strong, handy boys will get the same wages per month, and board. The inducements held out by Canada to men of capital,"^ combined with skill, are great, and equal to any country. Money can be invested in almost any kind of property to advantage, if done with judgment : in purchasing land, par- ticularly near towns and villages that must increase ; in building houses, mills, See; in establishing breweries on a moderate scale ; in distilleries, furnaces and forges, and all manufactures. ihUt* H ^nL • Emigrants, who seek present conveniences, casb markets,' and a moderately good soil, with a country in some measurei cleared, and generally healthy, would do best to settle eitlier \ ATFENDIX. 1M7 near Port H-.pe, York, Niaj^ara, or round the head of Lake Ontario ; but others who prefer a more moderate climate, a richer soil, cheaper land, with the prospect of as good a market when the Welland Canal is in operation,* will pro- bably go to the westward. People of mos' common useful trades will find encourage- ment both as masters and journeymen ; good blacksmiths and tailors are in request, house-carpenters, plasterers, bricklayers, and brick-makers, shoe-makers, boat-builders, wheelwrights, coopers, &c., will find openings almost every where, and with wages equal to any part of the States ; I a few good innkeepers, to keep respectable houses, I think, would succeed ; and maltsters and brewers also. It is unnecessary to add more in proof of the great import- ance of Upper Canada, and other American possessions, to England ; and the superiority of the former over the United States, for British emigrants. No. 2. — Taxes ok Ui'per Canada. Il/r The taxes are very trifling in Upper Canada, and, I be- lieve, chiefly expended in the country in which they are collected, for building bridges, court-houses, and gaols, and defraying the expenses of the latter. A friend of mine, who owns 200 acres, informs me his taxes never exceeded 7«. 6d, in any one year. ;) pected from Government, the following statements are sub- joined of the ordinary charges for passage to the North Ame- rican colonies, as well as of the usual rates of wages and usual prices in them, in order that every individual may have the means of judging for himself of the inducements to emi- grate to these parts of the British dominions. PASSAGE. Passages to Quebec or New Brunswick may either be engaged inclusive of provisions, or exclusive of provisions, in which case the ship owner finds nothing but water, fuel, and bed-places, without bedding. Children under 14 years of age are charged one half, and under 7 years of age one third of the full price ; and for children under twelve months of age no charge is made. Upon these conditions the price uf passage from London, or from places on the east coast of * Since t\m paper was first printed, the arrangements alluded to have been completed, and will be tuund described in the postscript. APPENDIX. 197 Great Britain, has generally been 6/. with provisions, or 3/. without. From Liverpool, Greenock, and the principal ports of Ireland, as the chances of delay are fewer, the charge is somewhat lower ; this year it will probably be from 21. to 21. lOs. without provisions, or from 4/. to 51. including provisions. It is possible that in March and April passages may be obtained from Dublin for 35s., or even 30«. ; but the prices always grow higher as the season ad- vances. In ships sailing from Scotland or Ireland, it has mostly been the custom for passengers to find their own provisions ; but this practice has not been so general in London, and some ship owners, sensible of the dangerous mistakes which may be made in this matter through igno- rance, are very averse to receive passengers who will not agree to be victualled by the ship. Those who do resolve to supply their own provisions, should at least be careful not to lay in an insufficient stock ; 50 days is the shortest period for which it is safe to provide, and from London the passage is sometimes prolonged to 76 days. The best months for leaving England are certainly March and April ; the later emigrants do not find employment so abundant, and have less time in the colony before the com- mencement of winter. The names of vessels proceeding to the North American Colonies, and the addresses of their brokers, may be learnt at all ports of the United Kingdom, including the port of London, by personal application at the Custom House of each port The officers of Customs, how- ever, will not be able to answer written inquiries on the sub- ject ; and persons residing inland who may require informa- tion of this nature, must depute the inquiry to some one at the port where they wish to embark. Many ships are adver- tised in the public newspapers. Various frauds are attempted upon emigrants, which can only be efiectually defeated by the good sense of the parties against whom they are contiived. Sometimes Agents take payment from the emigrant for his passage, and then recom- mend him to some tavern, where he is detained from day to day, under false pretences for delay, until, before the depar- ture of the ship, the whole of his money is extracted from him. This, of course, cannot happen with the Agents con- nected with respectable houses ; but the best security is to name in the bargain for passage a particular day, after which, whether or not the ship sails, the passenger is to be received I 198 APPENDIX. on board and victualled by the owners. In this manner the emigrant cannot be intentionally brought to the place of embarkation too soon, and be compelled to spend his money at public houses, by false accounts of the time of sailing ; for from the very day of his arrival at the port, being the day pfeviously agreed upon, the ship becomes his home. The conveyance of passenr The Colonies in North America to which Emigrants can with advantage proceed, are Lower Canada, Upper Canada, and new Brunswick. From the reports received from the other British Colonies in North America, namely. Prince Edward's Island, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton, it appears they do not contain the means either of affording employment at wages to a considerable number of Emigrants, or of settling them upon land. \t'. .1 ' ' LOWER CANADA. From Lower Canada the Commissioners for Emigration have not received the official reports which were required from the North American colonies for the purpose of com- piling the present statement. They believe, however, that the following account of prices of grain and of wages may be relied upon for its general correctness : — Wheat, per bushel, 4«. 6rf. ; rye, 3s. ; maize, 2s. 6d. ; oats, Is. 3d, ; wages of labourers, 2s. 6d. per day ; ship- builders, carpenters, joiners, coopers, masons, and tailors, 5s, per day. UPPER The following Table exhibits the lowest and the highcHtl th» year 1831, in each of the principal Wheat . Maize . OatR . . Barley . Potatoes per bushel ditto ditto ditto Eastern District. Lowest Price in 1831. £. «. d. 5 I) per cwt. Butter (fresh) per lb. Ditto (salt) ditto Cheese . . ditto £gj{s ... per dozen Ducks . . per pair Fowls . . ditto iJeese 2 6 1 3 » 2 6 1 3 > perbutbel c D 74 Highest Ditto. Johnstown ditto. Lowest. £. «. d. 5 3 1 8 2 6 16) p«r bushel | 9 Turkeys Hay . . . per ton Straw . . per load Bread . . per 41b. loaf MEAT, per lb. Beef Mutton Pork Yea! FLOUR, per 100 lbs. 1 1 4 5 1 19 16 8 74 6 5 8 4 £. «. d. 5 1 I) 1 1 Highest Batborst ditto. Lowest. Highest 7. $. d. £. $, 13 1 8 1 6 5 6 2 5 10 8 10 H 6 9 1 I) 1 2 3 1 10 5 24 3 4 3 Fine . Seconds . 6 74 4 6 6 4 6 6 6 2 3 16 4 1 9 9 10 6 10 2 1 2 4 2 10 10 8 £. i. d. £. $. d. 5 5 2 6 3 16 2 3 ,0 3 13 1 6 i lo 34 4 5 3 15 12 6 17 12 6 6 24 24 4 24 15 12 7 6 4 6 8 6 10 3 2 4 4 2 10 81 fli 3| 01 4 4 6 3 4 4 3 4 17 15 12 6 10 6 7 lOl 4 4 3 4 16 12 Newci 2 2 1 2 6 1 10 5 2 9 a 00a T UPPKUI CANADA. 1 1 the highcitti price which the several articles therein-named hore, during ic principal districte of UPPKR CANADA :— NewcMtle dittu. 1 Home ditto. Core ditto. Niagnrn ditto. London ditto (H II run tract). Lowest. Hlgheot. Lowvst. Higli est. Lowe rl. Highest. Lowest. HiKlK Bit. Lowrtt Hlf(heii £.». d. e.«. d. £.«. d. £.8. d €... d. i*.*. d. £... d. £.8. d. 8.d. «. d. 3 6 (i 3 3 9 U 5 3 4 4i 3 3 9 5 4 5 (> 2 3 2 2 9 ) 2 6 2 6 9 2 2 3 9 3 9 1 3 2 10 i> 1 10^ 1 3 1 104 > 1 3 1 tt 3 U 3 U 2 3 1 2 3 3 9 2 a 2 l> 2 2 6 3 11 3 9 '2 3 10 2 6 ) 1 3 I 6 1 3 2 6 1 104 2 « 7i n 1 74 l\ H » H 7 1 7k 9 9 ? 9 10 (i oio 7j 7 1 5 ri 6 1) 5 7 4 6 7 74 6 7i l> 7i 1 10^ » 7i 6 1 6 7 7I 2 2 6 1 3 1 10^ 2 6 2 a 1 3 3 2 2 1 3 1 3 1) 1 3 1 6 a 1 3 I 3 C 1 3 1 6 1 3 1 3 2 6 3 9 3 3 5 l> 3 9 3 9 3 9 3 9 2 2 e « 3 3 9 5 10 ) 5 5 D 5 7 6 2 6 2 1 10 3 10 1 10 i 10 I 2 1 15 2 10 5 S 1) 15 15 7 6 7 ti 5 5 n 7i 74 4i 7 7i n 7 8 3 3 5 :) 3 H 2 3 33 3} 24 3 5 7i f) 3 a 2 3 3| 33 3 4 3 6 2 2 ^ U 8 7| 7i1 3 H 3 5 !} 3 4 9 a 4| 4} 12 6 17 6 9 12 6 15 14 6 15 12 6 15 15 15 10 15 11 12 6 12 12 6 12 6 15 ,0 202 APPENDIX. From a comparison of all the documents before the Com- missioners for Emigration, it appears that the yearly wagf^s of labourers in Upper Canada, hired by the year, are from 27/, to 30/. ; that their monthly wages, in different situations and at different seasons, range from I/. 10^. to SI, \0s. per month ; and that daily wages range from 2;$. to 3s. 9d. In all these rates of wages, board and lodging are found by the employer. Without board, daily wages vary from 3s. 6rf. out of harvest to 5s. during harvest ; 6s. dd., besides provisions, is sometimes given to harvest men. The wages of mechanics may be stated universally at from 5s. to Is. Bd. per day. NEW BRUNSWICK. The following is a list of prices compiled from documents sent in from various parts of New Brunswick ; — £. s. d, £ s. d. Wheat per bushel 5 to 10 ( ■* Maise -^ 4 6 ... 5 Oats — 1 6 ... 2 6 Barley , — 4 ... 5 Potatoes percwt. 1 3 ... 3 6 Butter (fresh) ... per lb. 9 ... 1 Ditto (salt; — 8 ... 10 Cheese — 4 ... 7 Eggs per dozen 7^ ... 1 Ducks per pair 2 0* ... 3 6 Fowls — 1 6 ... 2 6 Geese — 3 ... 5 Turkeys — 7 6 ... 10 Hay per ton 1 10 ... 2 10 Straw — 1 ... 1 5 Bread per 41b. loaf 10 ... 1 Beef per stone 3 3 ... 4 Mutton — 2 4 ... 4 Pork — 2 0^ ... 4 Veal — 2 4 ... 4 8 Flour per 100 lbs. 16 ... 17 6 Salt Pork per barrel 4 15 ... 5 5 * Although some nvbeat sold for 10«. in 1S31, it very rarely rises higher than 7». 0d. I APP7.NDIX. 203 £ s, d. £. s. (L Ditto Beef per barrel 3 to 3 10 Malt per bushel 6 2 ... 6 4 Rye flour per barrel 1 2 6 ... Indian ditto — 1 2 6 ... Oatmeal percwt. 16 ... 18 Salt Cod per 112 lbs. 10 ... 12 Ditto Mackarel . per barrel 17 ... 1 Ditto Alewives . — 10 ... 12 Coals are sold at 305. per chaldron. House rent at St. John's is from 5/. to 6/. per annum for families occupying one room ; and for families occupying two rooms, from 6/. to 10/. Common labourers receive from 3s. to 4*. a day, finding their own subsistenr*; ; but, when employed at the ports in loading vessels, their subsistence is found for them. Mechanics receive from 5s. to Is. 6d. per day, and superior workmen from 7s. 6d. to 10*. Upon the foregoing statements it must be observed, that emigrants, especially such of them as are agricultural la- bourers, should not expect the highest wages named until they have become accustomed to the work of the colony. The mechanics most in demand are those connected with the business of house-building. — Shoemakers, and tailors, and ship-builders, also find abundant employment. By Order of the Commissioners for Emigration, T. FREDERICK ELLIOT. POSTSCRIPT. 5th March. — Since the preceding pages were printed, the foDowing letter has been received from Messrs. Smith, Payne, and Smiths. Lombard Street, 23rd February, 1832. Sir, — We have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, and in reply, we beg leave to acquaint you, for the information of the Commissioners for Emigration, that we have agreed to receive monies in London, on account of the Montreal Bank, and that any emigrant who may think it more safe or advantageous to transfer his capital to the 204 APPENDIX. Canadas through the medium of the Montreal Bank, than to carry it vith him iu specie, will have the opportunity of doing so. On receiving a sum of money, on account of the Montreal Bank, we shall give a receipt in the following form : — Received 18 of the Montieal Bank, by A. B. Founds S. P. and S. In cases where money is remitted to us, by country bankers, on accoant of emigrants, receipts will be sent to the country banker making the remittance. The country banker's charges on this transaction will, of course, fall upon the emigrant. We shall decline in all cases to take any money unless accompanied by the signature of the party, who is to receive such money in Canada, excepting in cases where a remit- tance is wished to be made for the use of a person resident in Canada who can be readily identihed by other means. The emigrant, on his arrival, will present the receipt to the Montreal Bank, and the bank will, we presume, draw upon us for the amount, and pay the emigrant the proceeds of such bill at the exchange of the day, in the manner con- sistent with its usual rules of business. We wish it to be distinctly understood, that we do not engage to protect the emigrant from any risk whatever, ex- cept the risk which might attach to the carrying the money with him. We simply undertake to honour the drafts of the Montreal Bank, from time to time, for such sums as may be paid into our hands on account of that bank. We are. Sir, Your most obedient Servants, (Signed) Smith, Payne, & Smiths. T. F. Elliot, Esq, , ^c. ^c. ^c. p. S. — We have omitted to mention that we are directed not to receive less than Twenty Pounds on account of any one individual. APPENDIX. 205 The mode of proceeding described in this Letter is likely to be generally made use cf, in order to avoid the risk of carrying money abroad in specie. For this purpose, persons who are emigrating to Canada will only need to deposit here the sum they desire to receive for their owr^ use in the Colony, and to draw the amount after their arrival. But for persons residing in this country, who wish to remit money to Canada for the use of others assisted by them to emigrate, some further arrangement will be requisite. One course which may be followed uy such persons will be, merely to give the emigrant the means of depositing in Endaud money payable in Canada, and in this manner to guard against the chances of the money's being lost, or improvidently expended, on the voyage. Should it be further desired to establish a control over the money, not merely until the voyage shall be com- pleted but even after the emigrant's disembarkation, it will be necessary that the persons providing funds with that view shall pay them into the house of Messrs. Smith, Payne, and Smiths, to the account of the Governor of Lower Canada with the Montreal Bank. The Governor will be directed to con- fide the application of such funds tc an officer appointed for the purpose, who will be required to give sufficient security, and will be bound to expend the money for the benefit of the emigrants in the course of three months after their arrival. Within that period he must be allowed the exercise of his own discretion as to the occasions and proportions of the payments he may make. Persons desirous of availing them- selves of this method of procuring the superintendence of Government for the expenditure of sums destined to the use of emigrants, must fill up and sign two lists containing the names and descriptions of all the emigrants to receive portions of the deposit, together wit*^ *he signature or mark of each emigrant thereto affixed, and a statement of the amount appropriated to every individual. Each emigrant must also be furnished with a separate certificate, stating his name and number on the list, and the amount to which he is entitled. Copies are subjoined of the forms in which these lists and certificates should be drawn up. The lists will be forwarded by the Colonial department ; and for that purpose they should be. sent there, at least three weeks before the departure of the emigrants, under a cover marked with the word " Emigration," and addressed to '• The Under Secretary of State, Colonial Departmeut, London.*' At the 206 APPENDIX. same time should be enclosed thu acknowledgment of Messrs. Smith, Payne, and Smiths, for the payment to the account of the governor, without which acknowledgment no list will be sent forward. Neither can any list be forwarded, or the management of a deposit in the present manner be under- tal^en, unless the whole sum deposited by the individual signing the list amount ut the least to 502. The certificates must be delivered to the several parties to '.vhom they relate ; but thev should be sealed up, and addressed to " The Agent for Emigrants at Quebec," or " at Montreal." FORM OF LIST. Name of the Emigrant. Age. Trade or Calling. Amount to be given to the Emi- grant. General Remarks. Signature or mark of the Emigrant. ■) y N. B. — At the head of the list should be stated the name of the vessel in which the several parties are to embark, and th« date at which she is expected to sail. APPENDIX. 207 FORM OF CERTIFICATE. 1, A. B., do hereby certify that C. D., the bearer hereof, is the person described, as under, on the list forwarded by me to the Colonial office; and that the amount (herein stated, namely pounds, is the true amount which I desire to be paid to the said C. B, {Sigiiature of the person making the deposit on account of the emigrant.) No. Name. Age. Trade or Calling. Amount to be given. General Remarks. Signature or mark of the Emigrant. (#r II M l I i i rii ii iii'.)»fll»^— •«i*ap ^/^f V LONDON: Manning and Co., Printers, London-House- Yard, St. Paul'i. '* "■'tlS«Bt,W'?P'Ui,^JI|||l»j(||p!|Jll!^Ifll'!'>!