^ A IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 ■M K 122 SB4 I 1.1 f^liS IL25 III 1.4 II^IU 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4S03 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVi/ICMH Collection de microfiches. adian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiquas 'Bell ■* M yt- ' International Steamship Company. Bostoij, portlaijd, 5;a8tport apd St Jol^p Ijije. THE FOLLOWING ARE THE PHOPOSED ARRANQEHIENTS OF THIS COMPANVa aTEAMEM t MARCH 10 T H TO MAY 5TH. 1890 Leave Boston at 8.00 A. M., and Portland at 5.00 P. M. Mondayi and Thursdays for Eastport and St. John, with usual connections. Returning, leave St. John at 7.25 A. M. and Eastport at ia.30 P. M., Tuesdays and Thursdays. MAY6TH TO NOVEMBER 3D, 1890 Leave Boston at 8.30 A. M. and Portland at 5.00 P. M. Mondayi, Wednesdays and Fridays for Eastport and St. John, with usual con- nections. Returning, leave St. John at 7.25 A. M., and Eastport 12.30 P. M. same days. CtWOn Wednesday trip Westbound Steamers do not call at Portland between June 4th and Octi lit.) NOVEMBER 3P, 1890, TO MARCH 10TH, 1891. Leave Boston and Portland Mondays and Thursdays usual hour. Returning, leave St. John and Eastport same days, usual hours. NOVA SCOTIA DIRECT LINE MAY TO NOVEMBER, 1890 Leave Boston (Commercial Wharf), 8.30 A. M., Mondays and Thurs- days for Digby and Annapolis direct. Returning, leave Anaapolit and Digby Tuesdays and Fridays P. M. MOl XT ALLISOX MKAIOKFAL LIBKAKV I'M !•: "*i »■: \ i h- II 11 1 Dr. R.C. B*-cfiiboLU 193l Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Note* tachniquas at bibliographiques itute has attamptad to obtain tha bast copy availabib for filming. Faaturas of this lich may ba bibliographically uniqua. lay altar any of tha imagas in tha ction, or which may significantly changa il mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. L'Institut a microfilm^ la maillaur exemplaire qu'il lui a itt possibia da sa procurer. 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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atra raproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est filmA d partir de I'angle supAriaur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant la nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iilustrent la mAthode. I ' t I $ 3 1 2 3 ;. * i ■ ■ ' « I fKin(t: Edwaiip is land. Illustrated. TIME. I. I. Ir)., MILES, TIME 167 9 216 12 80 10 45 3i 60 4j 112 10 338 16 DISTANCES AND TIME. ANNAI'OI.IS DIRECT LINK- MILES. Boston to Dighy 275 Boston to Annapolis 278 Boston to Hai.ii-ax 418 Boston to Liverpool, N. S. ( Stage from Annapolis) 353 Boston to I.unenhurg, N. S 380 DiGBV TO Annapolis 13 TIME. 25^ hours. 26i f< 35 H)>rill tNltoriniillnn miijr Ih> iihliilnril al Ihr folliiwIiiK Aicrnrli-ii of (ho t'nniimiijr i LOCAL AOIflTS. K, A WaIIiNON, lleneml AHent, Commercial Wharf, \ llimltii): J, \V, l4lti|IA«im«N| A(ti'tit, loj WashiiiKion Street, llMiiDMI, ('. I' SVAl.tlHtlN, Atfenl, 40 Exchancc St., Portland ' H I', (!, IlKHUfV, AxBHt, K. K. Wharf, Portland. ! W 11, KlIiHV, Aijehti Cmnpany'a Pier, Enstnnrt. > !<. 1) I.KAVI II, Attenti opposite Custom's Iluildini;, KitliipeFt, J. I-. TiioMi'SON, Auent, Frontier Steamboat Co., Calais. C. I.. Ueming, Atjcnt, cor. Point and Union Streets, Calais C. E. l.AECHLER, A(!ent, Reed's Point Wharf, St. [ohn. ,H. CiiunB, Agent, Prince William Street, St John. (iF.o. PriiLPS, Agent, Prince William St., St. John. II. II. Short, Agent, Government Pier, Digby. H. A. Carder, Agent, Acadia Pier, Annapolis. OUTSIDE ACCNT8. W. II, ClIliMCII, Aoenl, 1 Weybossct Street, Provi- n. (', I yilN, Ayt'hl, 1(11. Moody and Crescent Sts., WilllhAm, Mit>i!), I). V. I,AN(;A> covering all rail and steamboat lines necessary for reaching the summer-resorts of Maine, and the White Mountains of New SEA COAST RESORTS. h Hampshire, as well as those within the Maritime Provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Cape Bre- ton ; while the new and growing popular resort of Cutler (Maine), Famous Grand Manan, the charming Passamaquoddy Bay, resting retreats of Campobello Island and St. Andrews-by-the-sea, are reached best by its own line, which continuing on to St. John (New Brunswick), and to the quaint towns of Digby and Annapolis (Nova Scotia), in the " Annapolis Basin," finds there the gateway through which the traveller reaches all Provincial points. In addition to its sea-coast route, the International Steamship Company maintains a direct line between Boston, Digby and Annapolis, Nova Scotia. The Company, founded in i860, has at the present time in commission two of the finest steamers in eastern waters ; the " State of Maine " and the " Cumberland " are Bath- built side-wheel craft of 1600 tons burden, constructed during the years 1882 and 1885 respectively, by the ship-building company, which has just received the government contract to build two cruisers for our new navy, modern in every particular, and rival the floating palaces of Long Island Sound. Large expense is made by the liberal management of the line in keeping its steamers up to a high standard of excellency. The menu and table service is unsurpassed. PAPINEAU FALLS , NEPISIQUIT RIVER. CHAPTER II. THE ST. JOHN ROUTE IN DETAIL — SIGHTS ALONG THE COAST FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND — THE ISLES OF SHOALS, OLD ORCHARD BEACH, ETC. DOSTON is the grand focal point to which converging lines from -■-^ All America concentrate the throng of eastern tourist travel, each season growing larger as the manifold attractions which the country holds are advertised, and advertise themselves, as no pen can, to the health-seeking, pleasure-seeking summer visitor. There are rail routes and water routes for again distributing this throng, but only one line, the International Steamship Company, offers the attraction of a " thro'-by-daylight " sail via Portland. This is a distinctive feature. Then, too, the sea voyage has ever been the panacea for human ills, of the brain-wearied, ennuied order, so we will fancy the tourist — for the outing is to be a search for com-, bined health and pleasure — embarked upon one of the good ships of the line, for thp voyage. Eastward, Ho ! The route skirts the coast for a great part of the distance, so there is little fear of mal-de-mer. During the season of tourist travel. May ist to November ist, one of the International fleet will leave Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8.30 each alternate day of the week, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays for its eastern ports. This is a most convenient hour for the traveler, insuring him an unhurried breakfast at his hotel, after which take carriage or car for the point of embarkation. All in good time the steamer bears away, at an hour when the harbor scene is brightest, and the points of interest are clearly in view, past Fort Independence, with Deer Island, on which are the city institutions of charity and the house of correction, and the main land of Winthrop upon the left. The seventy-five islands and islets which exist within the encircling arms of the three — Dorchester, Quincy and Hingham bays, which constitute the harbor of " The Hub " — are clustered in the seaward lancscape. Looking toward the city the united Charles and Mystic rivers are seen entering the sea, dividing East Boston from the city proper ; while in line with the former rises Bunker Hill Monument above the heights of Charlestown. SEA COAST RESOKTS. 9 From the City of Boston to the final point of egress from its har- bor, the outlet of the main ship channel, the distance is about seven miles. The passage is filled with interest throughout. After leav- ing the harbor the ship's course is shaped along the north shore of Massachusetts Bay, with the tall white beacons, discernible from the decks, standing singly and in doubles so plentifully, along this coast, where at night their signal fires blaze far across the waters like fallen stars from Heaven, guiding the sailor to the hospitable harbors of Swampscott, Marblehead, Salem, Gloucester, and a hundred lesser ports, a succession of attractive sea-coast cities and towns, loaded with interest, song and story. "You may ride in an hour or two if you will, From Halibut Point to Beacon Hill, With the sea beside you all the way, Through pleasant places that skirt the Bay ; By Gloucester Harbor and Beverly Beach, Salem's old steeples, Nahant's long reach, Blue-bordered Swampscott, and Chelsea's wide Marshes, laid bare to the drenching tide, With a glimpse of Saugus spire in the west. And Maiden hills in their dreamy rest." Halibut Point is the extreme northern point on Cape Ann, Cape Ann the extreme limit of Massachusetts Bay, Beacon Hill the acme of the exclusive exclusiveness of the City of Boston. The above lines from the pen of Lucy Larcom fitly describe the route of the steamer from the wharves of Boston to the limit of Cape Ann, for as straight as the chart directs, the course of the steamer has been for Thatcher's Island, lying off the eastern point of the cape, midway between the ports of Gloucester and Rockport, and proudly bearing the cape lights. At the entrance to the harbor of Gloucester, where is now a sum- mer settlement bearing the name Magnolia, lies the luckless reef of Norman's Woe, famous as the scene of Longfellow's poem, " Wreck of the Hesperus." Leaving Thatcher's Island the steamer heads direct for its nixt objective point, the harbor lights of Portland, Maine. Now the curving coast line of New Hampshire and of Maine per- mits the ocean voyage ; and between the two points, for a few hours only, the steamer passes " out of sight of land." The cruise outside between Cape Ann and Portland is varied by the approach and pas- sage of the Isles of Shoals, with their color of romance. These 10 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY, 1 I islands, a half dozen in number, lie in two states, their position directly off the mouth of the Piscataqua River, which forms the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine, and about nine miles from the coast ; from their position there arose a question of juris- diction, growing out of a most atrocious murder committed on Smutty Nose during the year 1873. The murderer was finally tried in the Maine courts, and suffered for his crime at Thomaston, the site of the Maine State Prison. Other startling crimes have colored the history of the Isles of Shoals. No section of country could con- tribute a larger or more thrilling volume in the records of piracy in the New World than these islands. It is certain that in the olden time they formed the rendezvous of such noted buccaneers us Kidd, Dixey Bull and Blackbeard. This was a desirable place to refit or repair ships. Troublesome questions, and questionable appearances were avoided, as the pirate craft lay sheltered in the roads between these high headlands, while their crews found shelter amid the rocky fortresses ashore. To relate the tales of wreck and ruin wrought by the pirate kings who have cruised to the Isles of Shoals to bury their ill-gotten treasure among the rocks, or the recital of the fearful sights and sounds which have met those whose hardihood permitted the search for the hidden v/ealth, would fill a volume and satisfy the most hungry sen- sationalist of the times. ; ' Star Island, one of New Hampshire's possessions, bears a monu- ment erected in 1864 to the memory of Captain John Smith of early colonial fame, and White Island bears the warning light of the Shoals. Boon Island, a lonely, desolate rock with a tall beacon, lies some distance east of the Isles of Shoals, directly off the coast of Maine, some twelve miles distant from the historic town of York. As we pass it to-day one can scarcely credit the story of the wreck of the Nottmgham and the terrible scenes of cannibalism among her crew, who were held prisoners by the waves upon the wild rock during twenty-four days in December, 181 1. Wonder not then at the num- ber of the coast lights which warn the sailors of to-day against a fate so dire. But now a bountiful dinner is being served within the spacious saloon, at which there is always a merry company, and after which there is time for a delightful siesta upon the promenade deck, in easy .steamer chairs, where, fanned by the salt breath of the sea, with book on lap, onp ay lazily pass the time, or curiously study the queer I I i I I SEA COAST RESORTS. II saiine types of humanity to be met always in the passage of the Northern New England coast. Engage such a one in conversation, and you are repaid by tales of the coast. He knows every bay and headland from Boston Light to Quoddy Head, and farther east to the " Grand Banks " of New- foundland, of marvelous catches and prodigious bags of game ; for your old salt is a born gunner, with sea-fowl his lawful prize. A life by the sea begets a spirit of sturdy independence, therefore he is a political economist of no mean order, indeed, the student of human nature can find no better field in which to pursue his studies than on the coast line of New England. Happily he will not be slow to discover the kindly side to the character of these quaint old salts. Now the ship again approaches the coast and one sees the long line of Old Orchard Beach, with its mammoth hotels. Just west of Old Orchard's broad sweep, as may be plainly seen from the deck, the curving coast extends seaward to Biddeford Pool, at the mouth of the Saco River. Between this point and the "Two Lights" on Cape Elizabeth's shore, extend in one continuous line numerous beaches which form the rallying-place for many summer guests. They may be considered environments of Portland, being reached many times daily by a half-hour rail ride from the city, or by car- riage ride over delightful shore roads beside the sounding, sea. They are, in their order, Old Orchard, Pine Point, Scarborough and Higgins' Beaches, with Prout's Neck, a narrow peninsula, as its name implies, extending far into the bay at a point where the Nonesuch River and its estuary forms the only break in this great stretch of sand. These form a succession of the grandest cooling-off places which Nature has provided for a long-suffering public. To one who delights in the ocean — and who does not ? — they conjure up pleasant memories of gradually-sloping beach of the whitest sea-sand, washed continually by giant breakers, among which sport a throng of bathers in every nondescript costume known to that gay pastime. Two score hotels, large and small, line the beaches, facing sea- ward, where orchestras, hops and fashionable doings are the order of the day and night, among three thousand guests. It is while the steamer is passing this point that in a clear day the passengers are treated to the fairest view of the distant White Mountains of New Hampshire to be had from any equally distant point. . 12 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. This view from the sea is particularly striking. There are other and nearer elevations which are ofttimes confounded with the White Mountains by strangers to this region, but the scene which these everlasting hills here present once seen is never forgotten nor mis- called. Mt. Washington is ninety and odd miles distant in an air line from the City of Portland, yet the whole chain of which Washington forms the highest and grandest elevation, stands out in individual distinction. They may be seen again at a point after leaving the city, but the view is incomparable to this. After passing Old Orchard the twin beacons of the "Two Lights " upon the Cape Elizabeth shore come into view, then " Portland Head " light marking the entrance to the first harbor entered by the steamer in the daylight run from Boston. The noble headlands of this shore, bold, storm-defying, rugged types of Maine's rugged coast, have formed the subject of many a grand marine painting, and given inspiration to artist and poet. •V " Even at this distance I can see the tides, * Upheaving, break unheard along the base ; .. , ' A speechless wrath that rises and subsides, ">. • ' In the white lip, and tremor of the face. " Sail on !" it says, ' sail on ' ye stately ships, . ■ Ai il with your fleeting bridge the oceans span; Be mine to guard this light from all eclipse, Be yours to bring man nearer unto man.' " m A passing incident in connection with the " Two Lights " may here prove of interest. Just within their shadow, upon the rocks surrounding Broad Cove, Cape Elizabeth, the good ship Bohemian, an iron English mail steamer of the Allan Line, for whom Portland forms the winter port during the close time of the St. Lawrence River by ice, struck and was torn in pieces by the waves one stormy April morning of the year 1862. Many lives were lost upon this the last occasion of disaster to a passenger steamer, attended by loss of life, which has visited the eastern shore. Can many transportation lines, carrying the traffic which offers upon these favorite water routes, show a better record than twenty- eight years without loss of life to its thousands carried yearly ? CHAPTER III. PORTLAND, MAINE, THE BIRTHPLACE OF LONGFELLOW — A PICTURESQUE HARBOk AT SUNDOWN — THROUGH THE CITY — ROUTES TO NOTED TOURIST RESORTS. "Often I think of the beautiful town That is seated by the sea ; Often in thought go up and down The pleasant streets of that dear old town, And my youth comes back to me." ' I ^HE entrance to Portland harbor, after passing the light at ■'■ Portland Head, is through the broad ship channel with the Cape Shore upon the left, and Cushing's Island forming the right extreme. An extended view of Portland's summer hotels and cottages may be had from this point. The Cape Shore is lined with the summer homes of the city's business men, many of them most imposing sub- jects of modern architecture. This shore also bears pleasant hotels, the Cape Cottage and Ocean House, for example, many boarding- houses, and the coast defences of the city whose sunset gun speeds the departing day. Upon Cushing's to the right, rises the broad roof and dome of " The Ottawa," the finest hotel in the harbor, new in 1889, to replace one destroyed the previous season. Beautiful cottages also adorn Cushing's, which is the most exclusive of Casco's isles. Immediately after rounding the point of this island the city bursts upon the view from its commanding position upon the peninsula heights three miles distant. ^ The view from seaward in the approach to the city is incompara- ble, and is, indeed, the only point of view which shows Portland to advantage. The time of arrival at this point, too, — 5 P. M. — is most opportune for sight-seeing. The sun, yet well up in the heavens directly above the city, behind whose roofs and spires it sinks into the west with most charming cloud effects of ever-varying hue. The harbor .scene is most attractive, for the mammoth steamer is now in the path of the many excursion boats plying between the '3 - '■• ^-^ V i z < > 3 5 O ii. z o a: u. I I- SI O z !^ o o UJ z < s £ .VA'.; CO.ISV AV'.'.SYM- /'.v. Vs «'ily and its cottage-covered suburban islands. Amonjj them our Hhip Mi't'iiiH colossal, and we are, for the passing; moment, the centre of attraction to the gay groups who throng the decks of the smaller (Taft, which now are dancing in the huge swell of our wake. 'I'hou- Maiids visit "'riu; Islands" daily. A fleet of ten boats making con- stant trips ; cottages and club-houses, innumerable almost, shelter tilt' Hummcr population, while the white tents of campers are anchored ill fvcry available spot. Steam and sailing craft of every style are met or passed in the HHCiMit of the harbor — a harbor which bears this distinction — let IIM turn from descriptive to incident, and relate it. 'I'liis busy harbor formed the theatre of action for the only inva- nion of a northern port by the enemy during the war of the rebel- lion ; when the revenue cutter Caleb Cushing was "cut out" from under the guns of the now obsolete fort upon the right, by an armed force, who, at midnight — 1863 — overpowered her crew and succeeded In KCtling away with the craft, an armed sailing schooner of modest No doubt the Cushing would have been turned into a privateer by her captors, had not her absence been discovered at daybreak from the observatory — mark the building, in form like the coast lij^htH we have been passing — which crowns the eastern extremity of tilt! city, and from which all vessels entering the port are signaled. Piu'Hiiit was made in two steamers, the Forest City and the Chesa- ptniko. The latter, of the Portland-New York line, was herself after- ward captured on the high sea by a band of confederates, who joined tilt* Mliip in New York as passengers, took possession and sailed to an l'',llH;lish port. These two steamers pursued the cutter, overtook her becalmed ftbnut twenty miles from shore, where the cutting-out party, with the trew as prisoners, abandoned the ship after firing her magazine, blowing: the trim little schooner into fragments. Through the lively phases of the harbor scene the steamer makes itH way along the complete water front of the city, with glimpses of th^ t?lm-»haded streets, which have won for it the sobriquet of " The Korest City," to its berth at railroad wharf, foot of State Street. It Im but a short walk up this broad avenue, State Street, to the Htreet-cars for " down town ; " carriages also are ever in waiting the urrlvul. The cars pass all hotels, through the principal thorough- fiiren of retail trade, Congress and Middle .streets, to the wharves (tf the island steamers. Ignoring the street-cars yet for a few 16 /X77:a'X.i //O.V.I/. sr/:,iA/s////' co.w/'.ixy. moments, however, a (|uurter mile walk through State Street straight from the steamer, one of tlie handsomest old avenues that the world affords, brings one to State Street Scjuare, which contains a fine bronze statue of the poet Longfellow, the first erected in his honor, save the bust in Westminster Abbey. We shall see much of Longfellow here at his birthplace and early home, and again in the voyage eastward to the country and people he has imniortali/.ed in that American classic, " Kvangeline." Taking street-cars in this square a ride of five minutes' duration brings the traveler to the new and palatial Union Passenger Railway Station. This is the gateway to interior Maine, and the White Mountains, via the NLiine Central Railroail, whose trains are replete with every convenience of travel, and each season bear a host of summer visitors to the hunting and fishing resorts of Rangeley and Moosehead lakes, and whose Mountain Division reaches the White Mountain resorts through the wonderland of the Crawford Notch. Here it is possible to take a train with Pullman sleepers at eleven o'clock each night of the week, which shall bear the visitor to Bar Harbor and the many fashionable resorts on Mt. Desert Island in season for breakfast next morning. Here also numerous trains depart daily for Poland Spring, with its superb hotel, the eastern Ponce De Leon, as well as for all interior and coast towns of the State of Maine. The " Union " is between the Maine Central and Boston and Maine railroads, who use together this beautiful and commodious station, to the mutual advantage of themselves and patrons. The Boston and Maine trains make frequent trips to the line of beaches which we saw from the steamer just beyond the Cape Shore, for Old Orchard direct, and for Scarboro Beach, Pine Point and Prout's Neck, from Scarboro and Pine Point stations, where carriage con- veyance is in waiting for all beach hotels. It is but twelve miles from the City of Portland to Old Orchard Beach, and the train delivers its passengers directly in the midst of one of the liveliest sea-shore scenes in the world. The beach is but a hundred yards distant, its great combing surf line making itself known at once. The largest hotels upon the coast of Maine are here, and invite a sojourn. ,. Old Orchard ranks with Cape May and Atlantic City in popularity with summer guests. It may be reached on the day of departure from Bo«ton, in season for a six o'clock tea, by the ocean day-line in connection with trains at the Portland Union Station. .s7^7 co.isr h'/:soh-'rs. a At the farther extremity of the city, reachetl also by street-cars, stands the station of the (Irand 'rruiik Railway, whose trains olfer another route to Poland Spring, to the Ranjjeley Region, and to the White Mountains. At the same wharf which witnessetl our landing, the steamer City of Richmond of the I'ortland, Mt. Desert iV Machias Steamboat F,ine leaves twice weekly, upon Tuesday and Friday, at eleven I'. M. for Har Harbor, all points upon Mt. Desert and farther east along the coast. Altogether I'ortland offers a variety of routes for reaching the many tourist points within the State, to which the water journey, the daylight .sail from Boston, has been the breezy prelude, Founded in i6_^2, under the Indian title Machigonne, the now City of I'ortland during the earlier days of settlement was the scene of many a fierce encounter between its hardy pioneers and the red men. After three bloody assaults the settlement finally, in the year 16S9, succumbed to the.se Indian attacks, and those who escaped death by the tomahi \ k and arrow, fled, leaving the deserted ruin of fort and home to biru and wild beast for a period of twenty-five years, when a number of sturdy veterans from the disbanded garri- sons aloi>g the coast made their homes here, and when the Indians once more came down to pay their compliments they found a line of fortified streets and strong guards at every point. The town now bore the name of Falmouth and enjoyed a flourish- ing commerce with the We.st Indies, when disaster again visited in the form of Captain Mowatt's British fleet, which sailed into its har- bor one bright morning during the Revolutionary period — 1775 — and after a destructive bombardment of eight hours landed a party of red coats who fired all buildings spared by the red-hot shots of the ships. F'almouth again sank in ruins, yet to appear again, and as the reconstructed City of Portland go through a third firey ordeal upon the "Glorious 4th," 1866, when a carelessly thrown fire-cracker started a conflagration, which, burning with fatal steadiness for six- teen hours, destroyed ten milliQns of property. To-day, with a population approaching forty thousand, and a val- uation of as many million of dollars, four daily newspapers, half a dozen national banks and thirty odd churches, surrounded by resting retreats of sea and shore, silvery-sanded beach and inland lake, this beautiful city, a carriage drive about which would amply repay a visit, whose large, well-kept hotels hold out a welcome to all, offers attractions to sojourn within its borders, or among its surroundings, which can but fill the time with pleasure. CHAPTER TV- EASTWARD AGAIN FROM PORTLAND — A CHARMING TWILIGHT RUN ALONG A HISTORIC COAST — THE MOUTH OF THE KENNEBEC, MONHEGAN ISLAND, ETC. * - 'T*HE exit of the steamer from Portland harbor is, when the tide ■•• will allow, through the famous "White Head Passage," a narrow water-way formed by the approaching shores of Peak's and Cushing's islands. Upon the latter, and so near that, to use a nautical phrase, one could throw a biscuit to the steamer's deck, rises the towering height of White Head, one of the finest examples of the rugged coast of Maine existing. It recalls the lines — And many a homesick tear is shed By wanderers far away, ', As mem'ry reverts to "Old White Head," ' And the islands of Casco Bay. Upon the left Peaks Island, so close aboard that the music of its bands in pavilion and summer garden is borne to the steamer's deck, for this is the " Coney Island of the East," and the scene of merry revel. At unfavorable times of tide the passage out is through the ship channel, as we entered, and skirting the seaward shore of these islands. These are the scenes which the inland traveler wots not of, and more follow in succession during the three hours of daylight which remains after leaving the Forest City. Here are some of them : The passage through White Head leads directly to the sea, and the course is shaped just outside the fringe of islands, three hundred and sixty-five of which, by popular fable, are supposed to cluster within the encircling arms of Casco Bay, between the twin light upon Cape Elizabeth and the mouth of the Kennebec. Unlike the islands in the harbor of .Boston, arid, treeless and unadorned,^asco's Isles are forest crowned, with a primeval growth of pines and other northern woods, while, especially in the vicinity of Portland, they are adorned by the hand of man combined with Nature and bear striking examples of summer architecture. Long- fellow calls them — " The islands that were the Hesperides Of all my boyish dreams." i8 SEA COAST RESORTS. »9 The cruise brings them into view, and with them the long penin- sulas and deep indenting bays of Harpswell, as the steamer plows merrily along. " Half-way Rock" — half-way between Portland and the Kenne- bec — is passed at this juncture ; its tall light, a perfect Eddystone in its solitude, and its whistling buoy accompaniment in the fore- ground directly in the path of the steamer, which passes outside. Upon the mainland the shores of Old Falmouth rise to the elevation called Black-Strap Hill, — why Black-Strap tradition sayeth not — which bears upon its summit a spindle erected by the United States Coast Survey as a land mark, to aid in their research. Travelers, strangers probably from the " Prairie States," have mistaken this for Mt. Washington. It is safe to assert that none who have made the journey by the ocean day-line from Boston and witnessed the view from our strategic point, will be likely to confuse this mole-hill of Maine w'th the monarch of New Hampshire. This will be a good point for reckoning — Item : Bring your field glasses and get the points of the compass fixed like a true sailor. Now, with the whistling buoy in direct line with Half-way Rock, pointing north, the whole panorama of Casco Bay is explained. Just to the east of north the long peninsula of Harpswell projects far into the sea, island-surrounded upon all sides. To the west the larger islands of Chebeague, Long, The Diamonds, Peaks and Cush- ings in succession, surround the harbor of Portland, shutting the city from view. The shores of Falmouth, Cumberland, Yarmouth and Freeport form the horizon. After leaving Half-way Light, Martinicus Rock is the next objec- tive point, in ;-,earch of which the steamer soon rounds Cape Small Point, to find " Sequin" marking the approach to the mouth of the Kennebec, which noble river, famous world-wide for its ice product, flows from the clear depths of Moosehead Lake, in Northern Maine, until joining the \-aters of the Androscoggin, secciul only to itself, and forming the outlet of the Rangeley Lakes ; the two from Merry- meeting Bay — suggestive name ! — just above the coast line flow as one to find the sea at this point. Its estuary fori ns the harbor of lioothbay, whose islands, Mouse and Squirrel, are summer-populated by hundreds of campers, cottagers and boarders. Boothbay Harbor forms the rendezvous of many a yachting party from metropolitan cities to and fro eastern points. We have met this white-winged craft, many of them in the voy- age from Boston, for they are ever present in these summer waters, ^ 20 INTERNA TIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 'II >l j and include the entire ensemble of pleasure craft, from the tiny sloop to stately schooners, cup-winners, with the floating palaces of the Bennetts', Goulds' and Astors'; for all favor this picturesque coast, each season cruising Eastward, Ho ! Leaving Sequin with its stately light, one of the many beacons of which Whittier says : " From gray sea fog, from icy drift. From peril and from pain ; The home-bound fisher greets thy lights O, hundred harbored Maine." Monhegan next comes to the front. O, for space to pick up some of the many threads of history connected with the steamer's sur- roundings as she plows along this coast, events dating back prior to the landing of the Pilgrims, for it was Samoset, a chieftain of Mon- hegan, who, at IMymouth, met the Puritans with the English words, " Welcome ! Whitemen ! " Monhegan is the most famous island on the New England coast ; it appears upon the oldest charts in existence, and to it the earliest voyagers to the Western Continent converged. Champlain sailed the I)es Monts expedition to this point in 1604. Weymouth was here in 1607, trading with the Indians of Pemaquid. Pemaquid, the ancient fortified city, which to this day forms the goal of historian and anti(iuarian, the Pompeii of the west. These delve in her paved streets and unearth her old fortifications, enthusiastically recalling scenes which have added pages to our early history. 1?etwecn Monhegan and the mainland of Pemaquid Point was fought that des[)erately contested sea-fight between the Enterprise and Hoxer, familiar to every school-boy of the land. The Engli.sh brig Uoxer had been fitted out with the express purpose of engaging the Enterprise, an .Vmerican brig of her own class and armament. The ICnlerprise had seen service in the wars with Algiers, and now calleil home by the War of 181 2, was given a cruising ground along the coast of Maine to keep watch for the enemy's privateers. Decatur had been her commander, but she was now taken to sea by Lieutenant Burrows, an intrepid seaman, of whom it was believed he would (lie sooner than surrender. After terrorizing the sea-coast villages, and firing a fisherman or two, the Boxer cast anchor Satur- day, September 4, 1814, in Pemaquid Bay. On the morning of the Sabbath, calm, clear and beautiful as a September niorning in these seas can be, the lookout from the Boxer descried the lOnterprise bearing down froPi Portland under full sail. SEA COAST RESORT. ai In a moment all was activity on board the Englishman, who, drop- ping a few shots upon the village and old Fort Frederick by way of compliment, up anchor and away to a point about three miles from shore and then stripped to fighting canvas. The Enterprise coming up noted the invitation, and cleared for action. In expectancy of this event both ships had been prepared by their crews, rubbed down and polished off with as much care as a pugilist receives from his trainers ; so earnest were those of the Boxer, that her colors were nailed to the mast, an act which doubtless cost some lives in the event which followed. The fight lasted forty minutes ; and so closely were the ships engaged that after the first broadsides nothing could be seen of the combatants, save the flash of the guns through the thick veil of smoke which enveloped all. When the fire slackened the Enterprise was seen to be the victor. Both commanders were killed outright ; and on the 7th the Enterprise, with the Boxer in tow, set sail for Portland, where equal honors were bestowed upon the dead. Wrapped each in his country's colors, the dead captains were borne to their final resting place in the ancient cemetery, under the shadow of the observatory which we saw crowning the eastern extremity o*' the City of Portland as we entered its harbor. The roar of combat was plainly heard through the Sabbath still- ness of the Forest City, and Longfellow refers to it thus in his poem, "My Lost Youth": *' I remember the sea-fight far away, How it thundered o'er the tide ! And the dead captains, as they lay In their graves, o'erlooking the trantjuil bay, Where they together died." Through scenes, the theater of such events, the steamer makes its way, during the long twilight of summer, and now as the coast lights beam through the gathering gloom one by one her voyagers "seek the seclusion that the stateroom grants," where, surrounded by the invigorating air, blown from the wide salt sea, amid odors such as no landsman knows, they sink to rest, wooed by a quiet broken, yet not disturbed, by the dull, far away throb of the engines and the wash of the waves. There are no noisy landings, with their accompanying discharge of freight, to disturb refreshing slumber, which may continue until the landing at Eastport at 7.30 next morning. TiC CHAPTER V. ri PASSAMAQUODDY AND ABOUT THERE — EASTPORT AND ITS SURROUND- INGS — HOW TO REACH THE GRAND MANAN, CAMPOBELLO, LUBEC, ETC. — A SUMMER CAMP. T TNRUFFLED Passamaquoddy Bay lies sheltered from the sea ^^ by a mighty chain of islands, all British territory, for this is th^ stern extremity of the United States. Its shores and islands bear numerous summer resorts, which possess enough of individuality to warrant a separate and detailed descrip- tion. At favorable times of tide, when it " serves," to use a nautical phrase, the route of the International steamers into Passamaquoddy is through " The Narrows," formed by Lubec, a white wooded town upon the left and the long island of Campobello to the right. The entrance to this channel is past the light at " Quoddy Head," which marks the eastern limit of the United States of America. At other seasons of the tide one must circumnavigate Campobello, and approach the American town of Eastport through British waters. The magnificent sweep of Passamaquoddy Bay must be seen to be thoroughly appreciated. Its encircling shores form a horizon WEST QUODDY LIGHT. 23 34 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSllin COMPANY, seventy-five miles in circumference, all of which from some one of its many elevations, as the Chanicook Mountains above St. Andrew's, is brought into one view. It forms an arm of the Buy of Fundy, and partakes of its high tides, while its breezy summited islands exclude its fogs. These phenomenal tides rise and fall twice daily. In Passama- quoddy measuring between thirty and forty feet, while to the cast- ward they go still higher. The rivers which find the sea within the Bay of Fundy are said to part of the time run up hill, part down as the tide swells them. There are few islands in the Bay of Passamaquoddy after passing through the outer fringe which shelters its quiet waters. One of these, Minister's Island, which lies off the peninsula of St. Anilrew's, fitly exemplifies these tides. Between this island and the mainland there existsat the flood an exact half mile of clear water. At the ebb tide one can ride or walk, dry shod, over a bar of shingle connecting the two, TWENTY FEET BELOW THE LEVEL OF THE SEA AT HIUH WATER. Passamaquoddy is the ideal spot for summer sojourn. Beside the historical interest, blending romance with the beautiful in nature, it has a peculiar charm for health-seekers in its pleasant air. There is no fog, the encircling islands shut out that unwelcome visitor from the sea ; the powerful tides remove all refuse far from shore twice each day, and last, but not least, there is the assurance given by General A. W. Greely, chief of the United States Signal Service, which has such a bearing on the subject of climatic perfection in this locality that we quote it. In an article in " Scribner's," entitled "Where shall we spend our summers?" after detailing what people are led to e.xpect from reading summer literature descriptive of this and that resort, Gen- eral Greely says : " There is possibly one place in the United States where such conditions obtain, — a bit of country of about forty square miles at the extreme south-western part of the United States, in which San Diego is situated ; but even here, perhaps once in two or three years, the sultry blasts from the Mojave Desert |)ass over the low mountain-range and parch this favored district. ... By a sin- gular contrast, the second favored spot as to summer weather is the extreme northeastern point of the United States,— Kastport, Maine, ... At Eastport, the prevailing summer winds are from the south, which makes the weather delightful." Gen. Greely, in the charts which accompany his article, places the mean daily tempera- ture at 68° during the entire heated term. There is another phase SEA COAST RESORTS. as of summer weather which is of equal importance with the question of temperature. This is a humidity of atmosphere. Again we quote Gen. Greely, whose chart shows that the belt denoting the dryest atmosphere passes through Passamaquoddy Bay. He says : " It is further of importance to note that the quantity of vapor per cubic foot decreases as one goes northward, and the absolute amount of water in the air in New Jersey is fifty per cent, greater than in Maine, while the quantity along the Atlantic sea-coast from Hatteras south is nearly twice as great. ... A dry summer climate is assumed to be one where the atmosphere contains five and one-half grains or less of aqueous vapor to each cubic foot [our belt has only five grains], and on this basis it is safe to recommend the northern half of New England and New York." Gen. Greeley can be considered an impartial writer, having no climatic wares to dispose of. In naming Eastport, he named the extreme limit of his country and consequently of his research, therefore as Eastport, so Passama- quoddy and about there. A PASSAMAQUODDY INCIDENT. Immediately following the California gold fever of 1849, a far- reaching, notable enterprise was inaugurated in Passamaquoddy. In 1850-51 the steamer S. B. Wheeler, a side-wheeled wooden craft, in size and tonnage resembling the " Rose Standish " of the Frontier Steamboat Line, whose steamers now ply the waters of the bay and river St. Croi.x, was built at Eastport. Up the river St. Croix, at the towns of Calais, Maine, and St. Stephen, New Bruns- wick, which we shall see later, on opposite banks of the river, was built upon the English side the barque Fanny, with an object in view of curious nature. The hull of this vessel was towed to Eastport. The captain of the " Cumberland," one of the International fleet, — perchance our very ship — forming one of the crew of the tow. Here she was sunk, after removing the entire stern of the craft, for in her construction this part had been secured by screw bolts for this express purpose, and while submerged the steamer was floated within- and secured by ballast and freight tightly packing the entire hold of the barque. Then the Fanny was raised, her stern once more secured, her hold freed from water, her masts stepped, two of them passing directly through the steamer, her rig- ging and sails supplied, and out gf Passamaquoddy she .sailed " 'round The Horn " to San Francisco. i i! I i i tfi^ >'*£ n < CO > a a O o> < in < a. o < II) z in oe ill z , ii^ lii SEA COAST RESORTS. «7 Arrived there, the same process was carried uut for the removal of the steamer, which, reconstructed, sailed for years the Sacramento river the first river steamer in California waters. No part of the steamer was removed when she was engulfed within the barque, save her funnel and walking-beam. She furnished accommodations for the passengers taken out in this way, and posi- bly some forty-niners of the Pacific coast may yet remain of those who made the voyage in this novel manner. EASTPORT, MAINE. Eastport, prominent upon the school maps as the extreme east- ern settlement under the American flag, prominent in history of old- time boundary disputes, and the home of the American sardine, is situated upon Moose Island, at the entrance of Passamaquoddy Bay, separated by a wooden bridge twelve hundred feet in length from the mainland town of Perry. It is a town of white wooden buildings, a big hotel flying the American (lag, an exceedingly peaceful-looking arsenal, a fort and a United States Coaling Station. Along its water front the many wharves are occupied by numer- ous factories, where minute herring are cooked in salad oil, packed in cans exactly resembling the conventional sardine box, and placed on the market, a close imitation of the imported article, whose market price they have greatly cheapened. Fourteen of these sardine fac- tories lie within the radius of a circle drawn one-half mile from the post-office. They simply line the water front. Previous to the fire of 1886 there were twenty-one factories in Eastport, with an average capacity of twenty hogsheads of uncooked fish per day, representing some 800,000 boxes. Of course, fish in quantities to allow this were not to be had every day, but during the season, May 15th to December ist, enormous quantities of the fish are caught in the weirs which surround the inlets to the bay, and cured. Fish that, going in as herring, undergo a metamorphosis, coming out sar- dines. This is a specialty of the eastern shore, in which Eastport bears the palm. As is custonlary in smaller towns, every modern event in Eastport dates from " the fire," a conflagration that, in 1886, swept the larger part of the town into ruins. The effect of the destruction has, on the whole, been beneficial to its appearance, as the new buildings are greatly superior to the old, and an efficient system of water- works has since been introduced, while a Government building — 28 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. custom house — for which Congress has appropriated $100,000 is in course of erection. This town forms the principal trade centre of the frontier. " The Quoddy " is its leading hotel. Here the International Steamship Company have made special provisions for traffic and travel, in its large depot built since the fire. At this point its steamers land, and by connecting water routes by other boats of lighter draught, the traveller is carried to the resorts in I'as.saniaquoddy and its environs, to Campobello and famous Grand Manan, to St. Andrews, and the towns of the St. Croi.x River. The Passaniaquoddy tribe of Indians from their home, a reservation upon Pleasant Point just above Eastport, add a picturescpie element to the life of the town. Their bark canoes still ply the waters of the bay in their periodical visits to the several summer resorts. They may, with profit to theinselves and the sportman, serve as guides in canoeing, hunting, and fishing excursions in the vicinity, from their aboriginal knowledge of woodcraft and the famous lurk- ing places of fish and game. I NORTH LUBEC. Adjoining Eastport, reached by steam ferry across the harbor, lies the town of Lubec, approaching Campobello, and reaching northward in a series of long peninsulas, characteristic of this rugged eastern shore. It is upon one of these sea-girt necks of land, all surrounded by Cobscook Bay, and near neighbor to the famous resorts of Passama- quoddy, that the site for the permanent summer encampment of the Young Men's Christian Association has been chosen. Last year, in March, a committee was selected by the New Eng- land Association to search out and report upon an advantageous site. North Lubec was chosen, and unanimously endorsed by the annual convention. The initial encampment was held August loth to 25th, 1889. It was a complete success. Without exception all were pleased with the selection, and the continuance of the encampment at North Lubec is assured. Leading association men have purchased a large tract of land for the purpose of developing the encampment. A new hotel is in pro- cess of erection, in which ample accommodations for visitors will be provided. Bowling alleys, tennis courts and base-ball field afford opportunities for amu.sement and exercise. Thus, amid the health-giving breezes from the sea, this associa- tion has a rallying-place, after the plan of the Maine Chautauquans I i SEA COAST A'/-:SOA'7\S. 29 ii|i(»ii another bonier, that between Maine and New Ilampsliiie, at l''r'y»;btii*({' CUTLER, MAINE. It In only of late that Cutler Harbor has come to the front as a Hinnnifr resort, from its secluded position on the coast of Maine. It lit'M midway between Mt. Desert and Passanuuiuoddy in a shel- ijTcd bay which has proved so attractive, that a syndicate of gentle- men have purchased the lands about its shores, built a modern Kumnjci' hotel upon improved sanitary conditions, and laid out their lands Into sites for numerous mansions, cottages, and tastefully plaitned parks. (lO where you will, by land or water, by carriage or sail, or ramblinj? along the shore or in the woods, obiects of interest con- tinually meet the eye. Prominent among these are the Natural Ul'ldxc, Cross Island, the Norse Wall anil Lake, the foot- prints on the rooks, caves, lake.s, streams and water-falls, the lighthouse and life-saving station, the mineral si)rings and meadow views. It offers all the attractions of the secluded coast resort " far from the mad- ding; i;rowd," its little gem of a harbor receiving many white-winged yHChtH during the season who bring hither many summer guests. PKMHROKK, PERRY, DENNVSVILLE AND ROBUINSTON. Upon the western shore of Passamaquoddy, above Lubec, lies the town of Perry, containing Pleasant Point, a village of the Passama- • pioddy tribe of Indians. Pembroke adjoins Perry upon the west, and Uobbinston lies just above upon the St. Croix. 'I'lltJSe are all coast towns bordering the bay and river with a mul- liplicily of projecting peninsulas and encroaching bays, affording fine salt-water fishing, while their forests abound with game. CAMPOBELLO. This Filysinm of the summer tourist is his first resort " over the border," in reaching which, from Eastport, one and one-half miles by steam ferry, he cros.ses that imaginary line, the International boundary, The island is picturesque with coves and cliffs, winding roads and woods, a series of delightful surprises to the uninitiated. One may remain out of doors the entire day without sense of fatigue nor heat, so clear, bracing and cool is the sea atmosphere. Fog never remains the entire day, and during the last five seasons there hai been not more than three davs each summer month in which it 'II II ! a z 3 (/I z s o DC O UJ m 3 :iiill ,s/i./ co.Lsr h'/-:s(>N/'.s. .1» was impossible to walk or drive, wliiie tiie beauty of the landscape is woiulerlidly increased by the shiiltinji down ami liftiiij; of the mists. " A wind came up out of the Hca, And said, () mists, make room for me." Camjiobello and Deer islands arc the larger of the i.«»lands whidi sluit out the sea from I'assanuupiodtly. ('ampol)ello has been chosen before its mates as an island summer-resort from its beauty and j^randeur of situation. Upon its shores bejjin the wild scenery of the Hay of I'undy, a name sonorous as its waves, which wash the beetlin;j cliffs upon the outer shore of ("ampobello. The t'me model hotel, Tyn-y-coed, is happily situated upon one of these cliffs, seventy-five feet above the level of the sea, and near the water's edj^e. It is provided with all the comforts of a refined home, and is beautifully furnished throuj^h- out. Its seaward view embraces a wide sweep of ocean, broken only by the purple cliffs of (Irand Manan ; shoreward the hilly towns of ivistjiort and I.ubec are in the view, which also holds the Denny's River and the famous St. Croix with var'ed vistas of Pas- samacjuoddy reaches through forest crowned islands that intercept it. C'ampobello partakes with Eastport in the history of old-time boundary disputes, and IJritish occupancy of all the islands in the bay during the four years, 1814-18, that all remained under martial law. The English claimed that all belonged to (Ireat Hritain, as inuch so, to cpiote one of their commissioners, as Northamptonshire, an inland county of England. It had been a muddle since the treaty of 1783, at the close of the Revolutionary war — a muddle which required thirty-five years of diplomatic squabbling to clear. Finally, under an article of the treaty of Cihent, concluded December 24, 1814, two commissioners were appointed to settle the vexed question of ownership ; their final report states " that Moose Island, Dudley Island, and Frederick Island, in the Hay of Passamacpioddy, do belong to the United States, anil that all the other islands in the bay and the island, of (Irand Manan, in the Hay of Fundy, belong to His Hritannic Majesty.'' Thus the Union Jack floats over Campobello with its merry summer company, and that storm-defying ocean monarch, Grand Manan. GRAND MANAN. This noble island, " a paradise of sea-girt cliffs," as some writer has termed it, lies in the very entrance to the Bay of Fundy, nine r \m .1 111 i!i II iiili 32 SEA CD.IS'J' A'/uSO/y!'/'. miles from the American shore and eighteen miles from Eastport, where steamers may be taken for reaching it, by easy sail of two hours. l<"or a long time Grand Manan has been a favorite resort for marine artists and others interested in grand cliff and shore scenery. The highest and most precipitous cliffs are at the southern extrem- ity of the island. Here they rise to a height of from three to four hundred feet above the sea, which breaks at their feet with sullen roar and spray dashed high against the mighty barrier, dislodging myriads of sea-fowl, which wing their screaming flight below. It is a scene which reminds one of the tales of the Norwegian coast, or what might be expected in Icelandic waters or among the Hebrides. The western shore extends in a series of these cliffs, twjnty miles with no accessible entrance from the sea ; but on the eastern shore are several villages lying within pleasant coves ; smaller islands lie scattered in the sea off shore upon this side. Near the northern head, called Bishop's Head, from a rocky figure, rising boldly out of the sea off shore, and named "The Bishop," are two hotels and some private boarding-houses. In this neighbor- Hi !i I ^^%*'-H ■■>**5^' SOUTHERN HEAD, GRAND MANAN, lill ill SKA COAST RESORTS. IZ Rastport, il of two or marine ry. 11 extrem- e to four iih sullen lislodging ow. It is coast, or Hebrides, jnty miles em shore islands lie cky figure, J Bishop," , neighbor- liood is Swallow-tail Head, upon which the lighthouse stands, sur- rounded by cliffs deeply scarred by the action of the waves. Whale Cove opens delightful features, around it tower gigantic cliffs displaying a variety of formations ; at one place briiliant with varied hues, and in another regular strata are piled up in consecutive layers, commonly called the " Seven Days' Work." The beaches at the foot of the clilTs show gay-colored pebbles. It is a land of wonderment, and presents, especially during and following a storm, marine views unsurpassed in their grandeur. There are good facilities for fishing and shooting. The roads of the island are excellent ; good horses for driving can be had at moderate prices, and the same may be said of boats and boatmen. It is a land which should be visited by all lovers of the sublime in Nature, and may be taken in as a side trip with the other Passa- raaquoddy resorts in the ocean voyage eastward. ST. ANDREWS. "And the pale healtli-secker findeth there The wine of life in its pleasant air." Thi^' couplet might well have been written of the charming new- old summer-resort, St. Andrews-by-the-sea ; old, dating back far beyond its early settlement by the sturdy Loyalist.s, wlio fled from America upon the l^eclaration of Independence, issued by the colo- nies, and who founded upon tiie long peninsula extending far into the bay, this quaint old town, whose streets laid out by Deputy John Jones, surveyor for the Crown, in 1784, are the earliest example of the Philadelphia ciieckerboard plan (.n\ record, i;()nsisting of avenues of a uniform length and fifty tO' ei , iy feet wide, crossing at right angles and dividing tiie tjwr into .i':i.y ijlocks, eacii three hundred and twenty feet stpiare. Old again in its reminis.-urcec of its sturdy Loyalist fore-fathi.;rs, who, leaving tlie " States" dur'-.ig and immediately foilowi. ,' • t rebellion against the Crown, bi might to this (luiet border town their families and flock.s, with, in iome cases, their iiomes al.so, in proof of which there are houses n^tw standing in St. Andrews whose frames were broiight from Castiiie by their Loyalist owners, and set uji anew beneath the Crown. Wii;hin ibe Engli.sh church of the town rt."ts. ronspi.-Uf.v,-ly clis- played, the roy..! coat-of-arms, brough.^ i)y its O M umw SEA COAST RESORTS. 35 ■f UJ o z < Ul I in z < z D o s ^ o o o s < I u a z < * cut, where, during the struggle for independence, he had earnestly prayed for the success of the English arms, anil, caring not to live in the new republic, settled at St. Andrews, bringing the emblem of royalty with him. New St. Andrews boasts its fine hotel, "The Algonquin," opened in June, 1889, to receive nearly 1,400 guests, its first season, and other improvements of the old town, which have made this sleeping- beauty of the seaside the ideal summer-resort. Few coast towns have a more favored location than St. Andrews. Long before it was thought of as a summer-resort, it enjoyed a cer- tain patronage from pleasure-seekers from Northern New Brunswick, and acuss ilic border. Its marked characteristics led to the forma- tion ci the St. Andrews Land Co., who have, with their varied improvements, of which the new hotel and Indian Point Park are notable examples, made the old town to blossom like the rose. The bote' stands upon an eminence overlooking the town, and 150 feet above sea level. From its broad piazzas an unobstructed view 's had, disclosing tl i whole panorama of Passamaquoddy Bay, with the Chamcook Moi ntp.lns, the St. Croix River and the distant shores of Nova Scotia for a background. Its guests enioy a wonderful immunity from hay fever, that dis- tre::'iing mal'vdy being unknown to the residents of the town, while the afflicted, even those who visit here at well-advanced stages of the disorder, find early and complete relief. It is pleasant to write of St. Andrews. To one who has visited it there is always much to recall with pleasure ; while with the ocean voyage ^T'TL Boston, or from Portland to Eastport as an auxiliary, no betLi ' !Ti wicine can be recommended the tired brain-worker, or sum*', er h'^n.-Lh anri pleasure-seeker, than a .sojourn at this Passama- q'i Kia % '^')rt. There are mountains for climbing, the Chamcooks, rec'ched ■ three-mile drive from the hotel, over roads which are perfecti.yn, and at their feet lie a chain of clear water lakes afford- ing fine trout fishing. Angling in both salt and fresh water may be enjoyed here with sure result. The yachtman finds a paradise, and the student of history his desire. There are possibilities for pleas- ure to suit jvery taste, coupled with a quiet restfulness of surround- ings which is itself a boon. •VM ! 1 i !! ! iiill iniiiiil iilHIlll tiiipPl 'ill III! Ui z < s oc o m q: _] »- (J :!iiiM CHAPTER VI. THE ST. CROIX RIVER AND SCHOODIC LAKKS, THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE — A STORY OF 1604 — CALAIS AND SI'. STEPHEN, THE GATE TO THE PROVINCr.S. Ill z < S of o m a. < I a. bi _j \~ D O IT IS the Frontier Steamboat Company, whose boats, connecting with the International steamers at the wharf of the hitter com- pany at Eastport, cross the bay to St. Andrews and ascend the historic St. Croix to the river towns along its banks. It is thirteen miles to St. Andrews — thirteen miles of delightful sailing with the objective point in view, backed up by the Chamcook Mountains and other highlands of New Brunswick, which border the bay. After leaving the wharf at St. Andrews, the steamer rounds Joe's Point and enters the St. Croix. This noble stream flows from the Chiputneticook, or Schoodic chain of lakes — lakes famous for their fishing and hunting opportunities — and forms, with the lakes abovv; named, for a considerable distance the boundary line between the United States and Dominion of Canada. This is the region for famous game and fish — the home of the moose, deer and land-locked salmon. vVscending the St. Croix as far as Calais, a point we shall soon reach in description, which lies thirty miles up river from Eastport, a short railroad, the St. Croix & Penobscot, may be taken, which will bear the sportsman twice across the river and on to the vilhige of Princeton at the very outlet of the Grand Lakes of Washington County, Maine, and into a game region of forest lake and stream. From Princeton a small steamboat runs up the lower lake to Grand Lake Stream, the outlet of Grand Lake, and the home of countless land-locked salmon of alderraanic proportions. On the lower lake there is a large village of Passaraaquoddy Indians, whose young men make capital guides for the sportsmen entering this region. The townships here bear numbers as distinctive marks, settle- ments have not driven out the game, which here exists as in no othf r part of the State. The Maine Commissioner of Game and Fish has .-ecently placed the number of deer " on the hoof " within his 37 I" ! ill hi ili nil II ! Ill ' i 3» INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. territory at ten thousand, with a large ratio at home within these Washington County woods. The names of Grand Lake and (irand Lake Stream are a well-known and sufficient guarantee that the angler may here find Ultima Thule. Can a more delightful trip De planned by the sportsman than the ocean-voyage we have described, reaching Kastport in the early morning after twenty-four restful hours from Boston, and with the privilege of sojourn in Passamaquoddy if desired, or push on to this sportsman's paradise by boat and rail same day ? But to return to the ascent of the St. Croix, from which wo have been diverted by these sporting possibilities. Joe's Point hides the town of St. Andrews, and the little steamer bears away up stream with Europe ou the right and the border of America to tiie left. America presents the shores of Robbinston and reminds of the cur- rent border story o*" cannon-ball dropped into St. Andrew's) sub- urbs upon the 4tii ji July, and returned upon tlie (Queen's llirthday. As the distance from tov/n to town is three miles, tliis must resolve itself into popu: • fab' . told for its border-poetic effect. In truth, there is only harTiony between the two. Chamcook Mountains, upon the New Brunswick side, are soon passed, and Douchet's Island appears in mid channel, Here descrip- tion must give way to historical incident, which must wake tiie dull- est fancy as one passes this small island, so long neutral territory, and which is fast disappearing before the flow of the stream, which must ere long remove this, the site of the earliest attempt at settle- ment in this part of the New World. Here is the story : By royal patent given by King Henry IV. — Henry of Navarre — and dated November 8, 1603, all the American territory between the fortieth and forty-sixth degree of north latitude was granted to his well-beloved friend Pierre de Gast, the Sieur Des Monts. "Acadia" was the name given to the grant — a name wiiich .still clings to the country and people : thus we have the Acatlians, and the towns of Tracadie, Shubenacadie and others in Nova Scolia. Des Monts during the winter secured and equipped two vessels, in which he and his party arrived the 6th of May, 1604, on the southerly side of the peninsula of Nova Scotia. Coa,sting the new country they entered the beautiful Annapolis basin, where, charmed with the spot, part of the expedition remained to found the ancient town, of Port Royal, — now Annapolis, Nova Scotia, We shall see this town later on, and present a picture of the defences erected by this early cqlony. i :ii SEA COAST RESORTS. 39 are soon Des Monts, with Samuel Champlain as pilot, set sail for fresh dis- coveries in the new acquisition. They explored the Bay of Fundy, and thence proceeded to the waters of Passamaquoddy, which they called a " sea of salt water." This was the first expedition to these waters. Passing through the outer fringe of islands, which stand guard as to-day, sheltering the calm within from the boisterous sea without, the ships crossed the bay, passing within pistol shot of the site of the present town of St. Andrews, and ascended the St. Croix, even as we now are, until arriving at a small island Champlain selected it as a suitable spot for defence, disembarked his forces and fortified it against encroachment from the Indians. He, geographer as well as pilot, describes it as " about three leagues in circuit," and from the fact that immediately above small streams flowed crosswise to join the larger river, thus giving it the form of the Holy Cross, he named the island St. Croix, a name which has since descended to the river, while Douchet's is the name the island bears. During the long boundary disputes this island was held as neutral ground and enjoyed all the rights and privileges of No Man's Landy thus becoming a favored dueling resort. To-day it bears a light supported by the United States Govern- ment. Within the keeper's house are many relics of the early set- tlement. Upon this island Des Monts chose to winter the expedition. The Indians were disposed to be friendly to the strangers, but of this the colonists were in doubt and took every precaution to guard against surprise. Prodigality in building their winter quarters had caused a dearth of wood, and as the long, cold winter of the northern climate progressed, the water courses were frozen and the men were forced to cross to the mainland for both wood and water. This they did under cover of the night and in constant fear of attack. To add to the horror of their situation a new and dread disease broke out among them. Thirty-six of the little band of ninety fell victims to scurvy before a remedy was found in a simple antiscor- butic — the boughs of the spruce steeped and drank. This was recommended by the Indians, and forms the earliest testimonial in favor of Spruce Beer. The bodies of their dead were carried at night to the mainland by their comrades and there buried. Fancy the feelings of thes^ men in a new and unexplored country, in the midst of an unknown death, and surrounded by a dreaded forest foe ! ."-r* I iil mm 1 ! i || 1 I in p n > < o < O «r < S u I I- Q Z < < a O h- UJ < ; .li'llil I ,: ;i ! i i ' S/'.A CO.ISJ' K/:S()/y"/'S. 4t Spring came at last to their relief, aiul, with the survivors, Des Moiits set sail about the iniddle of May, 1605, southward in search of a warmer clime. They entered the J'enobseot, discovereil and named Mount l)(.;sert, and voyajjjed as far as Cape Coil ; there the search was abandoned and the ship returneil to Port Royal. > < D < ■■2 < S UJ I »- o z < < Q. O I- HI THE MAOAOUADAVIC: UIVI.R AND I.AKK UTOI'IA. Let US return for a moment to PassanKKpioddy before bidding it adieu. At a point some distance east of the peninsula occupied by St. Andrews, the Magaguadavic River, a purely provin-fial stream, finds the sea also in Passamaipioddy iJay. It bears a strong part in the history of boundary disputes. For more than a century and a half following the attempted colonization at the island of the Holy Cross, this was practically a forgotten region. Meanwhile, other adven- turers from (Catholic France had visited the Magaguadavic, and, as was tiic V uslom with discoveries from Catholic countries, had set up the cross at its mouth. F'rom this incident the river became known as the St. Croix, and as such when confounded with the St. Croix of the Des Monts expedition, whicli was named as the boundary in the treaty of peace between Creat Uritain and the United States, at the elose of tlie revolutionary struggle, caused the knot which required so much diplomacy to unravel. The river flows from a lake of the same name, near Magaguad- avic .station on the New Ikunswick Railway, and receives numerous afTfluents on its way to the sea. Its cour.se is through rural New lirunswick, a country of fields and forest,s. Lake Utopia lies near the coast, where in early days the Indians had their homes and rallying-place. Curious relics of this aborig- inal people are from time to time unearthed. The overflow of its waters reach the Magaguadavic River through a natural canal and enter the bay at St. (ieorge, with a rush of waters known as the Falls of the Magaguadavic, a picturesipie ca.scade well worth a visit. On the west shore of the lake ri.ses a palisade of rock, a peculiarly beautiful red granite much sought in architectural adornment. Here the St; Ceorge C.ranite Company quarries from the everlast- ing hills fine building stone, and here we take leave of Passama- quoddy. CALAIS AND ST. STEI'HKN. , Leaving Douchet's Island behind, the steamer ascends the St.. Croix to the head of navigation, thirty miles above Ivastport, where !! I! ill! I ■ ■ 11 iiii 42 /.\//-:a\v.i TtoNAi. si'EAMsiiin co.u/'.txy. il i I" liilin I lit ! I ix, and afford the shortest route to the New Mruns- wick IdWMsof McAchun, Majfa>j[uadavic, C"anteri)ury, Hentoii, Debec iiikI Woodstock, and the Maine town of Houlton. A continuation of the branch from Debec Junction strikes the main Une of the road at Ncwburj^f, near Woodstock, reaciiing the Aroostook ('ounty (Maine) towns of Kort Fairfield, Caribou, and Pres(|ue Isle, as well as all Northern New Mrunswick towns to the Madawaska River. Hut St. John forms the true j>;ateway throuj^h which to reach all I'rovincial points, and to St. John the International steamers, from Kant port, next proceed to meet connections by rail over the New llrnnMwick and Intercolonial railways with all parts of the Old North^Kust, A VIEW IN DENNYSVILLE. Ill' C H A P I' F, R V T T , z I o 1/1 111 I/) _l _J < ll. a z < UP THE HAY OK KUNUV lO llll, l IliKK ( II V (M M'.W IIKUNSWK.K — FAl.l.S 111' 1111^1. JdllN kl\l,|< — Sl'ilUr IN AllUNDANfl'', — I'Kl T IV IRK.DKKK TON, KTC. IT IS a (laylij^ht sail tlirou^li tin- IJrilish waters of tlio Hay of I'lindy to St. John, the steamer keepinjjf close to sliore, allowinjif the New Hninswiek coast to jiass in inovinjr panorama. Here and tliere a rocky cove appears, ^'vin^ way to i)rctty bay and pebbly beach, inhabited as rnile isolated cabin and tidy settlement indicates. As the steamer advances into tiie bay the interest deejjens. Warner says : '• Tiie very name of Kiindy is stimnlatinjj to the imagination amid the geoj^raphical wastes of youth. The young fancy reaches out to its tides with an enthusiasm that is -iven only to Fingal's Cave and other jiictorial wonders of the lcxt-l)ook. 1 am sure the di.strict schools would become what they are not now if the geographers would make other parts of the globe as attractive as the sonorous Bay of I'undy." ST. JOHN. After steaming eastward for three and one-half hours we enter the harbor of St. John, and apjiroach the city. I'his harbor is deep and capacious. It lies upon the western and southern sides of the city, with Partridge Island, upon which are a light, signal and (juarantine station, sheltering it from the sea. St. John is the mari- time city of tlie Maritime Provinces. Its wharves and docks are ever thronged with shipping, for vast quantities of lumber, liie pro- duct of New Brunswick forests, are annually sent from this trade centre of the lower Provinces, which has become the fourth among the fihipping ports of the world. The city is maile up of the municipal district of St. John proper, the city of Portland and the suburb of Fairville, with but imaginary lines of division. All together they contain a population of fifty thousand. At its wharves the famous tides rise and fall thirty feet, seeming to produce a tempering effect on the summer atmosphere ; an oppressively warm day is of rare occurrence, the evenings and 45 i ! i'ii ill I irii! iiiilllll l!!l!'l!;li li ''I ii! Il'lil 46 mTRRNATIONAl. STEAMSHIP COMPANY. nights being delightfully cool, and the air filled with " the odor of brine from the ocean." St, John is well provided with hotels, the Royal, the Dufferin and Victoria being examples, and being the chief city of New Bruns- wick, to it converge all rail and steam navigation lines of this *'r:AST COUNTRKK." Visitors to the city much enjoy the fine drives amid its surround- ings. One of these leads across the suspension bridge, and affords a fine view of the " reversible cataract " which exists where river meets sea. Think of the immense volume of water which the St. John River ciisciiarges into the sea, ail emptied through a narrow rocky chasm but 500 feet wide. Just abt)ve the city the river expands into a broad bay with every intention of a quiet exit from its confining banks. But just above the city, where 'heir narrowest point, two bridges have been built, one a foot cm • janlage suspension and the other a railroad cantilever, the waters are confined in a rugged gorge, through which they rush with the speed and power of a mill-race. Here occurs the fall. It is a peculiar fall, and the above term applied to it by an American humorist explains its peculiarity. .\t high tide the sea has a descent of fifteen feet into the river ; at THE BRIDGES, ST, JOHN, N. B. In-.v tide the river has a like fall into the sea ; at half-tide all is serene, and the river may be navigated with safety. This is above St. John, and does not affect the seaward approach to the city. Of historical interest St. John possesses much. Near the bridges, upon the Carleton side of the harbor, one may see the ruins of Fort V. SEA COAST RESORTS. 47 "the odor of Dufferin and New Bruns- lines of this its surround- e, and affords s where river )t. John River rocky chasm xpands into a its confining rrowest point, uspension and :d in a rugged d power of a and the above its peculiarity. the river ; at lalf-tide all is This is above the city. ar the bridges, ruins of Fort La Tour, where was enacted the grandest drama of woman's heroism ever enacted in the New World. Madame La Tour and her famous defence of the fort and garrison wh"ch occupied this spot will be remembered as long as Canada has a history. Then one must visit the Martello Tower — old stone towers are not so common that this can be overlooked — one of the ancient defences of the city, crowning the hill upon the harbor front, and climb the steep hill of Fort Howe, at the western extremity of the city, to obtain the bird's-eye view of St. John, its environs and lively harbor scene, which is presented at its best from this point. Fort Howe now contains a few anti(iuated cannon and dismantled barracks, but time was when it presented all the lively phases of an English garrison, and there remain many evidences of its military occupation. Notable troops were quartered here. 'I'he sunburned heroes of the Crimea ; soldiers, who had fought at Likerman and in the trenches before Sebastopol, were quartered amid these quiet surroundings in ye olden time. St. John's public and private buildings are, as a rule, of fine api)earance, and the new passenger railway station used by the Intercolonial and New Brunswick roads is a model of modern taste and convenience. Altogether, St. John's invitation may well be heeded, and a brief sojourn, at least, before farther journeying may be passed with pleasure and profit v.ithin her borders. This, hen, forms the terminus of the Liternational Line, three hundred and fifty miles from Boston, and as the steamers, finding a ready passenger list of provincial people and returning tourists, retrace the route to Boston, we are left at St. John to consider in which direction our pilgrimage shall now lead us. THE RIVKR ST. JOHN. First let us consider the St. John River, its villages, towns, cities, an-l hunting and fishing resorts, reached by the New Brunswick Railway from St. John City. Rising in Northern Maine this noble stream, justly celebrated for its scenery, flows northward then toward the east forming for many miles the international boundary, until finally, with one grand sweep around the northern highlands, it begins its course of three hundred miles to the sea. It and its tributaries drain an immense area in Maine, New Brunswick and Quebec, reaching out to forest lakes through a timber growth which is yet a stranger to the woods- rii '-.'-'i' i ii'iiniii ! !:vi liijfii! M "'■'''■ ii 48 INTEHN^XTIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. THE UPPER ST. JOHN. man's axe. Within these shaded wilds are large game and large fish, to lest the nerve and skill of the sportsman. Along the main stream farm succeeds farm for miles, on either l)ank, interspersed by town and village of rural (juiet. Its head waters penetrate the Province of Quebec, and approach the famous salmon streams Restigouche and Metapedia in the extreme northern part of New Brunswick. Its own tributary streams are famous for their fishing, such names as the Tobitiue, river and lake, and Temiscouata being again a sure guarantee of sport. The right of .salmon fishing, on all the principal streams within the provinces, is held by lessees under its federal or local governments. Permission to fish is usually granted to visitors by the lessees. Such as are or become vacant are sold at public auction at Fredericton, the capital. Further informa- SEA COAST KKSONTS. 49 pid large fish, les, on either let. Its head ;h the famous feme northern r, such names again a sure the principal ler its federal ly granted to leant are sold Lher informa- tion on this point can be obtained from the Crown-Land office, Fredericton. The tourist-sportsman must not from this infer that he is debarred from angling in these waters. Though some are sold there are riparian privileges enough for all without trespass, and the angler is sure to receive a thoroughly honest welcome. Above the Tobique numerous tributaries enter the St. John, which may be passed by the tourist, until Grand River, fourteen miles above the Grand Falls, is reached. Its station and telegraph office is St. Leonard's. Grand River is not specially noted for its fishing, but is worthy of mention as a favorite way of reaching the Resti- gouche, the most famous of Canadian salmon rivers. Ne.xt above St. Leonard's, and thirty-nine miles above Grand Falls, is Edmundston, the northern terminus of the New Brunswick Railway. It is prettily situated on rising ground at the confluence of the Madawaska and St. John. The little village boasts of little except its scenery, and the quaint customs and manners of its people. It contains a good hotel, and its chief claim to the sports- man's consideration is that it forms the head-quarters for the great fishing trips to the upper St. John. Madawaska, Green River and Fish River enter the St. John in this vicinity ; the Madawaska from Lake Temiscouata in the Prov- ince of Quebec ; the Fish from Eagle Lakes in North Maine, and the Green from four lakes in Northern New Brunswick, which have not yet been supplied with names, but are termed ist, 2d, 3d and 4th. Possibly, the stock of names have run out among the myriad sheets of water which the section holds, and some future visitor may embalm his name or fancy for evermore by bestowing a cog- nomen upon these hidden lakes. Upon all the tributaries of the St. John above Grand Falls good trout-fishing may be enjoyed. At present, and until the projected government fishway is completed, salmon cannot ascend the falls. The ordinary means of locomotion employed by sportsmen upon the rivers and lakes of Northern New Brunswick is the log canoe or pcroigue. This will carry three persons, including the guide, and the camping outfit. French guides can be procured for a dollar a day. They will furnish the canoes, blankets for their own u.se, plates, etc. The sportsman must provide his tent, his personal outfit, and his provisions. Indian guides with bark canoes may be chosen at the visitor's option, or batteaus for larger parties. Good guides can be obtained I if In il !l!^i i I /^ 50 ^• INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. V at Andover, Grand Falls or Edmundston, without difficulty. It is not usually necessary to engage them in advance ; but, if requested, the hotel-keepers at any of the towns will arrange it. GRAND FALLS. Although not partaking in an eminent degree in the title of fish- ing resort, we cannot leave the St. John's River without a reference to Grand Falls, which presents a variety of attractions in the grandeur of the cataract, the rugged sublimity of the gorge, the fury of the rapids, the rich coloring of the rocks, the lovely outlooks from its high hills, the charming drives, the strong pure air, the quaint customs of the French habitans, all combined to give the visitor pleasure. The old town, settled, as were many of its neighbors, by remnants of the exiled Acadian band, after long wanderings, has ever been a point of interest to the traveler. Even in the old stage days, when the nearest railroad station was seventy-five miles distant, the Falls attracted many visitors. In situation the town is bounded upon three sides by the river, which here makes an abrupt bend encompassing the town, which stands upon a horseshoe peninsula thus formed. It is laid out with mathematical regularity, and with refreshing regard for elbow-room. Broadway — in name and nature — runs through the center of the town ; at one end is the railway station, and at the other the falls. The river narrows as it reaches the cataract, and widens again to its original dimension, immediately after its passage of the tortuous course around the town. On either hand its banks ri.se into steep bluffs, one hundred and twenty-five feet high upon the west, and two hundred and fifty f,„cL descent from town to river upon the eastern side. The cataract itself exceeds the anticipation, its plunge is seventy-five feet, and the distance from one side of the gorge to the other, in a straight line, is three hundred feet. Except in very dry summers there is an unbroken curtain of water from bank to bank, falling into a whirlpool of terrific power. Clouds of spray are ever drifting up from the abyss, moved this way and that with listless motion. 'IMiis ofttimes at night produces a lunar bow which spans the fall, and, occasionally, will-o-the-wisps hover over the moist, mossy caverns. Of course, the fall is not without its romance of the Indian Maiden. This time, so says tradition, it was a daughter of the Milicites taken prisoner by the Mohawks, their ancient enemy, who '!|l!"'!ii'ii / SEA COAST RESORTS. 5« iculty. It is if requested, ; title of fish- it a reference ctions in the le gorge, the )vely outlooks pure air, the d to give the 3, by remnants las ever been Id stage days, les distant, the m is bounded 11 abrupt bend shoe peninsula irity, and with ime and nature I is the railway idens again to pf the tortuous rise into steep the west, and iver upon the Inticipation, its jjne side of the .1 feet. Except of water from er. Clouds of IS way and tha*^^ ;s a lunar bow |sps hover over of the Indian (laughter of the Lit enemy, who had killed her father and brothers. Her captor planned a night descent upon her tribe, and she was directed to build a fire to mark the nearest point to the falls which could be safely approached by canoes. She built the fire on the rocks below the falls, and then, as a guarantee of good faith, led the foremost canoe of the advance. Straight for the light she steered. Closely the warriors followed ; over the falls the whole band sailed and none escaped. The points of interest about Grand Falls, apart from the fall itself, are the Gorge, which is spanned by a suspension bridge affording a fine view down the Narrows, and " The Wells," within the Gorge, about midway between the Upper and Lower Basins. These wells are immense holes worn in the rock by the action of the water upon small stones. They occur in the vicinity of nearly all water-falls, but at the Grand Falls are exceptionally large. They form an interesting study to the geologist, as indeed do all the curious rock formations of the neighborhood. There is much of interest hereabout which warrants a longer description, but we must journey eastward. Such, then, is the St. John, a river teeming with beauty and with sport, who.se grand natural attractions are supplemented in a high degree by the allur- ments of its forests, lakes and streams ; a river followed throughout almost its entire course by the New Brunswick Railway, and which is best and most advantageously reached by the ocean route from Boston, Portland or Pa.s,saniaqu()ddy to St. John's City, thence direct by rail, or to a connection with the rail route at Fredericton by .steamers of the " Union Line," plying the river daily between the seaport and capital. Leaving St. John, by crossing the cantilever bridge, the train loses the river at Westfield, a few miles out, to find it again at Fred- ericton, the capital of New Brunswick, situated upon the St. John some eighty-Tive miles by the river from the sea, and sixty-six miles by rail. Between the two cities the river is at its broadest and recalls an incident. During one old-time winter this long reach of water, then ice, was the scene of an interesting race between the teams of Lord' North, who commanded the garrison at St. John, and Larry Stivers, a butcher of Fredericton, who had accepted his wager of ^500. Possibly the leader of the Britisu Regulars found life a trifle dull in garrison at St. John after Crimean battles, and did this to stir up the monkeys for the time. Be that as it may, the race was run, with honors easy until near the finish, when one of Larry's horses fell, and, before he could be 5» INTERNA TrONM. STRAMSHTP COAfPANV. mm mm mm i ! I i I I pi lit Hi i ^ fi 11 i iiii 11 iiiiilini Mllliii cleared, Lord North secured a lead which broujjht him in ahead. North refused to accept the wa^er, hut, .striking; llic butcher's palm, exclaimed : " Keep it, Larry ! You're the only man in the province with courage to run that race." So the story goes. A steamboat line now plies the river through the scene of the North-Stivers struggle from St. John to Fredericton. 'I'hc " irnion Line " it is termed, and the visitor has to choose between it and the rail ride to Fredericton. Frf-dericton is beautifully situated upon a level pltiin, directly upon the St. John River, with New Brunswick hills surrounding. It is a pretty place and well worth a visit. As capital of the province it contains the Parliament Buildings and the (iovernment House, within fine grounds ; a cathedral, normal schof)l, and other structures of note, all tree-embowered by magnificent elms, planted with keen foresight by the city fathers of the past, to the enjoyment of the present generation. Tall elms and flower gardens are Fredericton's specialties, to which must be added its suburban drives, which are ninnerous and very pleasing. One of these, "the old road," disclo.se.s such exten- sive and beautiful vistas of scenery, wherever a break in the dense foliage occurs, that many tourists pronounce it nnsiu'passed. Leaving Fredericton, with its broad sweep of the river behind, we continue on through a .series of inconsiderable towns to Wood- stock Junction and Newburgh. From the latter point a branch connects for Houlton, Maine, through Woodstock, while we con- tinue on in search of the famous salmon and trout streams of Northern New Brunswick After leaving the junction point at Newburgh, the road again strikes the St. John and follows it to its very head- waters. As the train .skirts the river, which is in full view upon the left, it crosses numerous tributaries famous for their fishing as the 'i'ol)i(iue, and others, which approach the Southwest Miramii'hi and Rcstigouche. There is this peculiarity about the New Mrunswii^k rivers, they approach each other by serpeniine windings, and by the myriad arms of their affluants, until it is possible to visit with canoe and paddle a great section of country, by " carrying " across the narrow Intervening space. Thus, for example, one might leave the train of the New Bruns- wick Railway at Kent Station, and ascend the Shiklehawk, branch of the St. John to its Ai.Mosr juncture with the northwest branch of the Miramichi, and from thence descend that river through its famous SEA COAST RESORTS. 53 ji) it and the fishing and hunting-grounds, or, by a carry of two miles only, from the head of Salmon or Grand rivers ; other branches of the St. John reach the Restigouche itself. The same is true, in reverse, by the route of the Intercolonial Railway from St. John. 'I'his road crosses the heads of the bays, outlets of the Miramichi, Re.stigouche, and a host of others of only lesser note, and inlets for the salmon which have given the streams their noble reputation. From the bays one must now ascend these streams and carry to the affluants of the St. John. Both provincial lines of railway (jffer this peculiar facility to the sportsman. For hundreds of miles numer- ous river.., navigable to canoe and paddle, intersect the roads, and the tourist has but to choose from the many streams, and with the stream its most convenient station. To the sportsman then let us say : Here is a country of unlim- ited extent, which is open by such means as the above to anyone who can sit in a birch and ply a paddle ; here is game worthy of your rifle, and game-fish such as no other section of earth can boast. To reach this ultima thule, the water route from Boston to St. John is named, as adding novelty to the rail-ricle from St. John. For the purpose of guiding the sporting fraternity to this region, we enter in detail the fishing-waters of New Brunswick. MOOSE HUNTING IN NOVA SCOTIA -"THE CALL' !''ji!!|! Iiii!!i:::|i:, illi iliih 'lililiii;' iliif |i ! I ijl' ilill If i ill' rlplil C H A V T K R VIII. IHK SALMON STREAMS OK Ni:\V likUNSWKK AND HOW TO KKAfll TIIIM — I'lIK ro|!l(,)i;K, ITS I.AKKS AND MOUNl AINS — A VIKW IROM llAl.D IlKAD. h z D o UJ D ul D 9! CO O H UJ I ^NK excellent salmon stream, tlie southwest Miramiclii, is reached from Kent, a station one hundred and twenty-two miles from St. Joimon the New IJrunswick Railway. Anijlers can suit their fancy or con- venience as to where they will pro- cure their outfit. Those who have the necessary appliances for camp- ing and sport will, of course, bring them, others can secure good outfits in St. John or Fredericton. Provisions for the trip should be purchased before leaving the towns for the forest. Sportsmen should bring their own tents if possible. Teams can be secured at Kent Station, which will bear the sports- man and outfit to the river, distant l)ut fifteen miles. From the point where the road from the station strikes the southwest branch to Boisetown — upon the main river — is sixty miles. From lioise- town the sportsman may choose the route by canoe and carry, or by road forty-five miles to Fredericton, or return the way he came. The best salmon-hole is at Burnt Hill, about twenty-five miles down stream from the point of embarkation. Other. favorite places are the Clearwater Rocky Bend, Rocky Brook, and 'I'hree-mile Rapids. The salmon are not as large as those taken on the Resti- gouche, rarely reaching above twenty-five pounds in weight, but they are gamy and afford fine sport. One who succeeds in landing a specimen need not fear to tackle a forty-pounder. As an instance of the abundance of the fish in this stream comes the fact that twenty salmon have been taken by one angler in a single afternoon, while the same gentleman killed five full-grown i salmon and hooked the sixth within an hour at the Rocky Bend. The Miramichi takes its ri.se some two hundred miles or more [from the sea, near the St. John and its tributaries, and drains an 55 56 INTERNA rrONA I. STEAM SI! in COMPANY. ifll area equal to fully one quarter of the province. It is navigable from its mouth to large vessels for forty-six miles, and for canoes for many • hundreds. It forms the grand sportman's highway for reaching every quarter of a superb game region, where sport is unlimiti'd amid moose, caribou, deer, bear.s, wolves, foxes, raccoons, loup-cer- viers and all the smaller animals of the forest, while game-fish may be killed from the canoe in passage. Both the New Brunswick and the Intercolonial railways offer routes, the first for reaching the headwaters of the tributary rivers / to the Miramichi, and the latter crossing the parent stream, where, at its entrance to the great bay of the same name, are situated the towns of New Castle and Chatham. New Castle is a good point of departure for the upper river. THE TOBIQUE. Twenty miles above Kent Station the two New Brunswick towns of Perth and Andover lie upon opposite banks of the river St. John, and midway between enters the ToiuyuE. Andover, New Brunswick, a pretty rural village, is its railway and telegraph station. At Andover the sportsman should stop for a time to secure a guide and canoe. These can be hired at the Indian village, which stands just above the junction of the two streams. This tributary of the St. John is named by travelers the most picturesque stream in America, while an additional attraction lies in the fact that it affords excellent fishing. It is a great spawning; ground for salmon, and the trout in its waters are legion. From its mouth to Nictaux, — the Forks, — is about sixty-three miles. Here the river divides into three branches, each some fifty miles long, all meeting at the Forks in one deep pool, wherein one may set- great salmon swimming, and the encircling trees cast their shadow and image upon the water. The entrance to the Tobique from the St. John is tame, but a mile farther on perpendicular walls of rock raise their heads on either shore. Here occur "The Narrows," a striking bit of scenery. They are one-half miles long, from fifty to one hundred feet wide, the walls rising in some places one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in height. The river widens out above The Narrows, and in its windings presents a wonderful variety of scene. Twenty-eight miles abovf the St. John is the great Plaster Cliff, an enormous deposit of red sandstone. It has a frontage on the river for half a mile, and rises II y. avigable from loes for many for reaching t is unlimitiul ions, loup-(X'r- jame-fish may railways offer ibutary riverH Uream, where, -e situated tiie good point of unswick towns river St. John, \ its railway and stop for a tiniL- at the Indian ,wo streams, elers the most ;traction lies in reat spawning ion. From its e miles. Here ty miles long, 1 one may sec their shadcnv ame, but a milt- eads on either scenery. They feet wide, the idred and fifty in its windings ht miles above deposit of red mile, and rises SEA CO/1 ST RESORTS. 57 to u height of one hundred and thirty-five feet. The cliff presents the appearance of an enormcjus ruin as one's canoe floats by at night, Twelve miles farther on is Blue Mountain Hend. The Blue McKUituiiiH, upon the right in ascending, have an elevation of sixteen hniuhed feet above the sea, and add to the beauty of the Tobique. Ten miles above, Hald Head rises twenty-two hundred feet, and Icrniinatos in almost a complete cone, its summit having about half I ho area of an ordinary railway car. It can be ascended on its northern and western sides only ; on the south and east it towers nearly perpendicularly for one thousand feet. It rises from a valley approached by a forest road, affording never-to-be-forgotten glimpfteH of its rugged summit. Many sportsmen voyaging the Tobique leave the river to climb Bald Mead, lured by the extended view obtainable from its summit, which hicludeH in its far-reaching sweep one hundred miles of the winding courMc of the river. Distant mountain.s, among them famous Katahdin in Northern Maine, and millions of acres of New Brunswick wilds. The fishing thus far has been good in point of numbers, but the OnIi arc not large. It is necessary to know where to angle, but the guides cun tell you. The Indian guides of the Tobique are trusty felloWH, strong and active in their canoes, wonderfully adept with the salmon-spear, and zealous for their patrons' comfort. Famous fishing may be enjoyed about the Forks, while of the HtreaniM into which the river divides at this point the left-hand branch, called the Little Tobique, is best for trout. The right-hand branch, or Campbell River, is a favorite resort for salmon, while the Mamozekel, or central branch, is not remarkable for its fish. It Is a singular fact that salmon will only go to the right-hand brunch, and white-fish only to the left-hand branch. One-half mile from Nictaux, on the left-hand branch, is the celebrated White-fish Hole. There is usually good trout-fishing there. From its forks following the deviating streams to the right and left,-=no one ascends the central branch for sport, — brings one to the lakes which form the sources of tl;e Tobique. Ascend the T Jttle Tobique, — it is best for trout-fishing — you will find its source in T/ittle Tobique Lake, a pretty sheet of water noted for its big trout, between which and Lake Nepisiquit, the source of the river of name name, exists a carry of but three miles. The river Nep- isiquit flows in an entirely opposite direction from the Tobique, and, crossing the Province, finds the sea in the Bale Des Chaleurs, an arm of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. CHAPTER IX. /' TO THE NORTHERN PROVINCES AND THE FAR-FAMED RESTIGOUCHE — THE CLEAR WATERS OF THE METAPEUIA — PROVINCIAL OAME LAWS. It ill r! W"] "D ETURNING once more to St. John as the distributing point ■'■^ for travel east and north, to the Umits of the province of New Brunswick, to Nova Scotia, and to Prince Edward Island, and the island of Cape Breton, the tourist now embarks upon the great steel highway of the Intercolonial Railway. From St. John to Sussex, a distance of forty-four miles, the coun- try bordering the line is well settled and abounds in beautiful vil- lages. The Kennebaccasis River here flows close beside the tracks for several miles, the hills rising oh the distant shore in picturesque beauty. As Riverside is reached, one of the finest racing-waters on the continent is brought to view. This is the scene of many notable aquatic contests. Here it was that the renowned Paris and Tyne crews struggled for victory one autumn morning years ago, when James Renforth, champion oarsman of England, fell from the Eng- lish boat, and was carried to the shore to die. Rothesay, nine miles above the city, contains many handsome villas, the summer houses of St. John business men and others. Theif ornamental trees and carefully arranged grounds have a very pleasing effect. Next Hampton is in great repute as a summer resort with the people of St. John, and then Sussex, one of the rising towns of the province. Sussex is situated in the prolific Kennebaccasis Valley, and has some of the most famous of the New Brunswick farms. Some fair trout- fishing is to be had in this vicinity, as numerous lakes lie within easy distance from the village. Petitcodiac and Salisbui le on to MoNCTON, the centre from which the busy operati at Intercolonial system are controlled. Moncton is essenti rail- way town ; it contains the general offices and the shops ot com pany, and has a population of about five thousand. Here is tli Petitcodiac River, which empties into Shepody Bay, the very heau of the Bay of Fundy ; it is a continuation of the bay itself as far as Moncton, up which the waters of Fundy ascend with a "bore," 58 HI!!'! SEA COAST KF.SORrs. 59 :ESTlGOUCHE — tributing point lie province of arcl Island, and upon the great miles, the coun- n beautiful vil- sside the tracks i in picturesque acing-waters on ^f many notable *aris and Tyne ears ago, when from the Eng- KSAY, nine miles summer houses lental trees and effect. Next the people of of the province. ly, and has some Some fair trout- lakes lie within Salisbuk' le.-i perati ssentic rail- ops ol com- d. Here i^ th , the very heau y itself as far as with a "bore," which, to be more explicit, means an advancing wall of water six feet and more in height. This is worth .seeing, and worth respecting, too, if you are out in a boat and don't know how to manage it. At Moncton diverging lines of rail reach I'oint Du Chene, whence steamers cross the Northumberland Straits to Prince Edward Island, while rail lines run down the great peninsula of Nova Scotia to Halifax, and other points which we shall reach later in description. Now, we journey northward over the long line of the Intercolonial Northern Division, which reaches Point Levi, opposite the ancient city of Quebec. From Moncton to the Miramichi, the railway passes through a country which presents no particular attraction to the eye. It is so far from the shore that none of its flourishing settlements are seen. The traveler for this reason is apt to acquire a poor idea of the country There is, however, a fine farming and fishing district all along the coast and some large rivers, of which the head waters only are crossed. At Newcastle the Miramichi River is crossed, and at Chatham Junction, passed just before reaching the river, a branch railway runs to Chatham-town, a few miles to the eastward. One whose time is limited need not wander far from Chatham or Newcastle to find abundant sport. He is in a country whose annual export of salmon and bass is something incredible. Rod fishing may be had in any direction. There are, for special points, the Little Southwest and Renous rivers with their many lakes, some of which have never been fully explored. Wherever in these streams there exists a high bank upon one side and a low beach upon the other, will be found a pool in which salmon will be sure to resort. The Ox Bow, on the Little Southwest, is a favorite spot for anglers. The Main Northwest is a particularly good stream. These are branches of the Miramichi, a name which is synonymous with sport. Continue on to Bathurst, on the Baie Des Chaleurs ; this is one of the best laid out towns in the province, and a particularly pleasant spot, both for residents and visitors. There are numerous ,-leas..iit drives following river roads, taking in the falls of the Tete- a-Gauche or Fairy River, seven miles from town, and the rough ters of the Nepisiquit on the return. For falls, however, there is ..othing in the vicinity to equal the Grand Falls of the Nepisquit, twenty-one miles distant. There are two pitches, the total descent being 105 feet, and the grandeur of the rocky heights by which the river is ovr 'ooked, requires a personal inspection to form a true conception ui the scene. :v' 60 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. ■■' ;'l! This is a great region for salmon and trout. The former are taken in the Nepisiquit as far as the Grand Falls. At the Rough Water, seven miles from Bathurst, they are particularly plenty, but good pools may be found all along the river ; caribou and bears abound in the forest and plains through which we have come from Newcastle to Bathurst. Partridges are plenty in all parts of the country, and fly across the path of the traveler on every highway. The country is wild enough to suit all purposes of sport, you can drop a line in any stream and something will rise to it, while skill with the rifle will bring proud trophies from these forest retreats. Guides are easily obtained in all this immense preserve, and are reli- able men, who add much to the pleasure of the outing, relieving the sportsman of all care of the camp and equipage, as well as point- ing out to their patron the favorite haunts of game. Much the same aspect of country is presented from Bathurst northward, ex- cepting that in all the distance one obtains amphibious glances of the sea as the rails skirt the shore of the great Baie Des Chaleurs. This far northern inlet from the Gulf of St. Lawrence is ninety miles iilil! ! i| GRAND FALLS OF THE NEPISIQUIT, ! ill SEA COAST KESORTS. 6i former are the Rough plenty, but u and bears ; come from parts of the :ry highway, ort, you can t, while skill rest retreats, and are reli- relieving the rell as point- Much the )rthward, ex- us glances of ;)es Chaleurs. ; ninety miles long, from fifteen to twenty miles broad, and bears neither rock nor hindrance to the safe passage of the largest ships. It presents a famous yachting course, and is renowned for its salt water fishing ; all of the numerous rivers which flow into the bay are good fishing streams ; sea trout abound in the estuaries and brook trout in the waters above The Restigouche and Metapedia. But it is at the head of this bay, the Baie Des Chaleurs, that the grand culmination of salmon streams is reached in the Restigouche and Metapedia, names which are graven deep upon the hearts of all true anglers. Here huge forty-pound salmon lurk to test the sportsman's skill. It was a Restigouche salmon which tipped the scale at fifty-four pounds, and numbers have been caught weighing forty-eight pounds each. Salmon fishing commences about the middle of May, and all the rivers abound with the great and glorious fish. At Metapedia Station, on the Intercolonial, the Restigouche is crossed by the trains where the river is spanned by a beautiful rail- way bridge, over one thousand feet in length. In the flat-iron caused by the junction of the two rivers, Metapedia and Restigouche, which interesting event occurs just below the station, stands the club- house of the Restigouche Salmon Club, a most advantageous site. Never were better facilities offered for the thorough enjoyment of sport than here, and hundreds of Anglers and Knights of the Rifle annually enjoy the hospitality of the club-houses, if they are unfortunate in not being club-members themselves. The house is close beside the railway station, its broad veranda fronting to the same as if to welcome the coming and speed the parting guest. Should one wish for the ideal wilderness, let him ascend this great river to its source, some two hundred miles away, or retire through some of its tributary arteries into the wilds of New Brunswick, hunting, fishing and camping to their meeting with other offshoots of the Tobique or St. John. THE "portage. HEADWATERS OF THE RESTIGOUCHE. The Restigouche forms part way the boundary between the Provinces of New Brunswick and Quebec. The river's course is most erratic, and with its arms produces, on paper, the appearance of a many limbed tree trunk, but then, the same is characteristic of all rivers in these provinces. Numerous lakes, as the Temiscouata and Squatook, may be reached through these forest avenues, — indeed, the by-paths are innumerable, as streams run in every direc- tion. All of them are safe for canoe navigation, so safe, indeed, lii ! J '' iliii SEA COAST RESOHTS. 63 that ladies with proper escort have ascended the St. John, crossed the narrow carry to the Restigouche and reverse. METAPEDIA : LAKE AND RIVER. A beautiful sheet of water is Lake Metapedia, the noblest sheet of inland water along the route. It lies among the highlands which border the River St. Lawrence, is sixteen miles in length and in parts reaches a width of five miles. Upon its clear waters the canoe of the sportsman glides through scenes elysian. Embosomed on its surface are islands rich in verdure, while the shores are luxuriantly decked with summer foliage. The outlet of the lake is the famous Metapedia River, winding its way in graceful curves through its rich valley to the meeting with the Restigouche, and then the sea. If the clear waters of the lake were — and they justly are — noted for their salmon, so too the river partakes of the honors. It has 222 rapids, great and small, fierce and wild, or gently rippling over beds of shining gravel. Salmon of the largest size are numerous, and here and there lurk those abnormally large fish, the killing of which with light fly-rod requires so much of skill and endurance, a pleasure long drawn out. Space forbids our devoting too much of that valued article to the hunting and fishing resorts of New Brunswick, in a description which is to include the whole eastern country from St. John to the .Atlantic. Consequently, with a few pointers concerning the game laws and restrictions, required by the Provincial Government, we shall leave what remains for the tourist to find for himself. The regulations of the department allow of fly fishing for salmon from the 30th of April to the 31st of August in Quebec, and from the ist of March to the 15th of September in New Brunswick. In Nova Scotia (which we shall consider lader, but not make a specialty of its fishing and hunting, preferring to generalize here,) the best salmon rivers are on the Atlantic Coast, though some which were formerly good have been " fished-out," or obstructed by dams. Where good fish-ways have been put in, the streams are not injured, but some of the. old ways seem adapted for almost any purpose rather than the passage of salmon. One river, which does not empty on the .Atlantic Coast, deserves mention. It is the Shubenacadie, on which some fine sport has been had, and will doubtless be had in the future. Salmon cannot be fished for in the rivers to the west- ward of Halifax between the 31st of July and the ist of March, nor I i ill! Illlliil SEA COAST RESORTS. 6S in the other rivers between the 15th of August and the ist of March. None of the rivers of Nova Scotia are leased. Trout are abundant in all the lakes, rivers and estuaries along the line of railway, and the fishing is a free one. The close season is from the ist of October to the ist of January. The .sea trout found in the estuaries are fine fish, and, though abundant in very many places, they are found in their perfection in the Tubusintac and Escuminac. They are greedy biters, and, it is said, will take almost any kind of fly. The arms of the sea are numerous estuaries on the Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia, are particularly good places for these fish, Avhich find their feeding-grounds among the sand flats and the bars and among the beds of sea-weed in shoal water. June and July are the best months for seeking them, though they may be found at all seasons. They are a very gamy fish, handsome in appearance and excellent eating. PROVINCIAL GAME LAWS. The Lower Provinces afford the best opportunities for moose and caribou hunting. The country lying back of the rivers on the northeast shore of New Brunswick, and the forests of Cumberland, Colchester, Halifax and Guysboro, in Nova Scotia, will give all the sport desired. Moose may now be killed in the Province of Quebec, after a long prohibitory season which came off September i, 1888. The close season now is from the 1st of February to the ist of Sep- tember. Caribou can also be killed in Quebec, and the season is the one last mentioned. The penalty for violation is from $5 to $20. The close season for partridge is from the ist of January to the 15th of September ; for woodcock, snipe, etc., from the ist of February to the 1st of September ; and for geese and ducks from the 15th of April to the ist of September. An hour before and after sunset are also set apart for the protection of snipe, woodcock, ducks and geese. Non-residents are required to take out a hunting license, the cost of which is $20, and the penalty for the non-com- pliance is double the amount of the fee. In N,ew Brunswick, the close season for moose, caribou and deer, is from the ist of February to the 1st of August. The penalty is a fine of from $10 to $60. Hunting with dogs is forbidden, under a penalty of $20, and any person may kill dogs which are chasing, or can be proved to have chased, such game. Three moose, five caribou or five deer, are allowed to be killed by each party in any one seasoi.. The flesh of such game must be carried out of the fm m m 66 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. woods within ten days after the killing, with the ejiception of such as is killed during the latter part of December, when the flesh must be carried out within the first five days of January. The close season for partridge is from the ist of March to the twentieth of September ; for woodcock and snipe, to the 14th of August. Non- residents are required to take out a license, the cost of which is the same as in Quebec. In Nova Scotia the close season for moose and caribou is from the ist of February to the 15th of September. No one person is allowed to take more than two moose and four caribou in any one year or season. The flesh is to be carried out of the woods within ten days after killing, and game killed during the latter part of Jan- uary shall be carried out during the first five days of February. The penalty for the violation of these provisions is from $30 to $50, and a fine of $25 is imposed for hunting with dog.s. The close season for partridge is between the first days of January and October, and that of woodcock, snipe and teal between the first days of March and August. Woodcock must not be killed before sunrise or after sunset. Blue-winged duck must not be taken between the first days of April and August. The annual licenses for non-residents expire on the ist of August. • They cost $30 each. The foregoing are some of the provisions of the Game Laws of the three provinces. There are other provisions, in regard to trap- ping, using nets for wild fowl, hunting with artificial lights, etc., but as no sportsman will resort to such practices, these pruvlsions need not be quoted. ^^^mk CHAPTER X. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND AND CAPE BRETON — THE GARDEN OF THE MARITIME PROVINCES — THE BRAS D'oR LAKES — A RELIC OF THE LAST CENTURY. ■pERCHANCE our excursion is an idle holiday, spent in search r of the picturesque and entertaining rather than in the pursuit of piscatorial pleasures, or sport with the rifle. With those objects in view we turn eastward from Moncton, the junction point, and journey toward Prince Edward Island, named in honor of the Duke of Kent. It is but a matter of ten miles from Moncton to Point DuChene, where we embark upon the Prince Edward Island Steam- Navigation Company's boat for Summerside. Steamers leave Point Du Chene every day of the week, Sundays excepted, about 2 P. M., or after arrival of the morning train from St. John. From Summer- side they connect with the Prince Edward Island Railway, which now extends the entire length of the isle, for Charlottetown, the capital, and by far the largest city, and for numerous other points in this quaint section of the western hemisphere. A perfect garden is this island, as the visitor who has seen its vast reaches of green fields, without a rock or cliff or withered pas- ture to mar the view, is willing to attest. Indeed, it is an admitted fact that Prince Edward Island has more good land, in proportion to its size, than any part of the Maritime Provinces. It grows amaz- ingly large potatoes and surprisingly heavy oats, quantities of which are exported each season, reaching, many of them, the United States, thus showing how remarkably cheap can crops be raised in this far eastern garden spot to yield a profit in competition to our own broad fields. This is the paradise of the farmer and nature- lover. The excellence of the hay crop will capture the one, no starveling fields, but broad, level acres of the strongest grass, mingled with clover, or waving in masses as dense as a field of wheat, with the full heads of timothy or of herdsgrass. The latter must bend to the potatoes, an unpoetic subject, but beautiful when they are out with their white blossoms above green foliage, in well kept rows which stretch away until lost in perspective, and all 67 m 68 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. assumes the mass or bank of white and green. Distance lends not to the view upon the island. The railway has a way of its own for winding in and about the hills, rather distracting to those who are accustomed to air lines, but adding much to the enjoyment of the trip, as bringing all parts and conditions of the country into view. We land at Summerside. Summerside is pleasantly situated, has a fine harbor with numerous pleasant islands of its own. A jour- ney of but a mile or two, a pleasant morning walk from your hotel will take one to Malpeque Bay, upon the opposite side of the island, from Summerside. It is one of the curious features of Prince Ed- ward's that although from point to point of its extremity it is nearly thirty-five miles wide at its broadest, there are three places where there is but a mile or two between the waters. Summerside and Charlottetown lie to the left and right centre of its two hundred miles in length, with myriad smaller towns stretching away to the extremi- ties in all directions, for the island is thickly populated. Great indenting bays, as the one occupied by Charlottetown, the capital, extend far inland from the sea producing all the accompaniment of shore scenery, peninsulas, capes, coves and shingly beach. So deep are these indentions that a little digging at three strategic points would divide the one island into four. One writer has said " O, for perpetual summer to make Prince Edward Island the paradise of the globe ! " Unfortunately, the northern climate conspires to balk that wish, for during seven months of the year Jack Frost is abroad in the land. He not only binds the fields and orchards, but lays violent hands upon the Northumberland Straits as well and for the period, November to May, this mighty arm of the gulf is closed to naviga- tion. Then it is that extraordinary means are employed in the delivery of mails and passengers en route to and from Prince Edward Island and the mainland. The old route between Point Du Chene and Summerside is abandoned now, while between Cape Tormentine, New Brunswick, and Cape Traverse, upon the island, the two nearest approaching points, is run the ice-boat. Between the two points is nine miles, part solid ice, part drifting ice, part water and sometimes a great deal of broken ice from the pack. The ice-boat is a strongly- built water-boat, in charge of trusty men who well understand the difficulties of the task before them. Each man is secured to the boat by a strap passing over his shoulder. ] SEA COAST RESORTS. 69 So long as there is any foot-hold upon the ice they shove or drag the boat along, when water is encountered, they embark to pass it. Thus sometimes up to the waist in the icy water, but safely held by the straps, they accomplish the journey. There is nothing like it in the ordinary experiences of the traveler ; it furnishes him food for reflection and for incident for many a long hour. It is an odd man- ner of journeying, but it is the only sure method of communication between the island and the outside world during the winter season. Charlottetown, the capital, contains ten thousand souls — about one-third the population of the entire island. These people for the most part live in the low wooden houses which are ranged along broad regular streets. Fine buildings Charlottetown can boast of few ; building material is a scarce article in a country having no .stones. That for the gov- ernment houses, a brown sandstone, being brought at great expense from New Brunswick. But if stones are dear, provisions are won- derfully cheap. In this respect the entire island is a veritable land of plenty. Salmon, in its season, can be purchased for five cents a pound. Cod, and other salt water denizens of that ilk, are not worth the preliminary of weighing, but go in the lump. Fresh mackerel at 30 cents a dozen, and lobsters at a cent and a half each, are some of the items on the bill of fare. Roast beef at ten cents per pound, and mutton half that sum. Chickens, thirty cents per pair. Eggs, twelve cents per dozen. Butter fifteen, cheese five cents per pound, — truly, this is the land o'erflowing with milk and honey ; the haven for many a tourist of limited means, in search of a dry, health- ful climate, quiet entertainment, good food and plenty of it, at a nominal cost ; he cannot do better than visit Prince Edward's Island, whose shores themselves are a novelty, — another " Emerald Isle " thrust out into the Atlantic, and whose people, their manners and customs form a distinctive interesting study. Hospitality reigns supreme, and upon any part of the island the belated traveler is assured a welcome, with excellent bed and board until the morrow, with hosts who would feel aggrieved by proffered pay. Nowhere within the same distance from Boston, — giving that point as the " Hub " of the Universe — can be found a spot of equal interest to the idle vacation-wanderer, or a tour which can introduce so much of novelty, rest and recreation. (Sport, too, for good trout and salmon fishing may be had, with wild-fowl shooting galore), as this voyage eastward to St. John, the rail journey to Point Du :t^1 m m •" ) 70 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Chene, the passage of the straits, and finally the wandering at will about the sea-girt, verdure-covered island can offer. The possibilities for a round-about route, taking in other attrac- tions upon the return, are great. For one may, instead of retracing the route via Summerside and Point l)u Chene, leave the island at Charlottetown, crossing by steamer to Pictou on the Nova Scotia shore of tiie mainland. We are now upon the true peninsula of Nova Scotia, in reaching which, without the tour of Prince Edward's Islands, the route is from Moncton — the junction point to which we first came from St. John — by rail of the Intercolonial through Painsic Junction, where the detour was made to Point l)u Chene, the point of embarkation for the island ; Sackville, the port-station of the ice-boats between the capes, Hopewell, Spring Hill, with its branch to Parrsboro ; Londonderry and Truro. Truro is the junction point for Halifax, needless to name as the metropolis of Nova Scotia. Here the main line of the railway tips sharply down to the Atlantic, while the Pictou branch turns in the opposite direction to fintl us just landed from the I'rince Edward Island boat, or steaming down over the intervening eleven miles from Pictou Wharf to meet the train from Moncton, — and through Moncton St. John, at New (ilasgow. CVPR RRKTON ISLAND. This is the point to which we have been leading, a country vying in interest with the last, and eminently worthy of a place beside it in this chapter. From New Glasgow a rail line called the Eastern Extension, which name, by the way, is no misnomer, runs to Port Mulgrave on the famous Strait of Canso. It is a short run, some ninety miles at best from the Pictou Wharf to Pirates Harbor on the Strait, through Antigonish called the prettiest village in Eastern Nova Scotia. Its neat, tidy buildings stand amid beautiful shade trees, and then its people ! If you want to find a type of able-bodied men make your selection at random from the brawny Scots who go to make up the population of Eastern Nova Scotia, and especially Antigonish. The word Antigonish means Big Fish River ; the fishing, how- ever, does not warrant the title. There are other towns passed by the traveler en route to Cape Breton but none which call for special remark, except Tracadie where there is a splendid view of the gulf. Here also is a Trappist Monastery, and an Indian Reservation. u > SEA COAST RESORTS. 71 After loavinjf Tracadie the train steams down the narrowing HliorcHdf Nova Scotia to the Strait of Canso — or Canseau — and the ihroiiKh |)aHscn)rcrs are taken by the train to Port Mul^n-ave, the (Ict'p W'iitur terminus to embark upon the boat for the Island of Cape llr«'ton, 'I'hiH narrow strait, some fourteen miles long and one mile in width, forms the great highway between the (iulf of St. Lawrence and llic Atlantic. As a natural consequence when the extensive ('((iiimcrcc between the two is narrowed down to these confining walln the waters of the strait are thronged by steam and sail, adding to the natural beauty of the spot the charm of bree/y life, — an aiiitnatfd picture. The passage of Canso is soon made, and Port I lawkcnbury reached, upon the Cape Breton side. Here the traveler < an lake steamer, which makes daily connections with trains, and ', \ BRAS D OR LAKE. 7» INTF.RS'ATIONAL UTEAMSITTP COMPANY. lands passengers at the head of Kast Hay, ten miles from Sydney at the eastern extremity of the island, through the celebrated Bras D'Or — TnF, Akm of (loi.i*. This imprisoned sea, one hundred miles long and from ten rods to ten miles wide, divides the island of Cape Breton into two parts, Vq( about fifty miles its waters are sheltered from the ocean, of which it forms a part, and in this length it expands into bays, inlets and romantic havens, with islands, peninsulas, and broken lines of coast, combining all to please. High mountains and cliffs tower above the lake on every hand, at many points rising sheer from the water, casting their shadows down through the clear dejiths. Again rising in the distance, and with intervening fertile valleys between it and the lake showing the white cottages of the farming and fisher folks who make home of this far eastern country. Cape Breton is rich in geological wonders. Its coal deposits, which underlie much of the island, and are supposed to extend, in one continuous vein one hundred and fifty miles long to the mines of Pictou in Nova Scotia, are inexhaustible, and crop out in divers out-of-the-way places. Dig a few feet below the surface in almost any place upon the island and your reward will be a rich seam of coal. Many families have a natural coal bin in the cellar, provided when the continent was making. Fossils rare and curious are com- mon upon the shores of Cape Breton in the coal strata, and wrenched therefrom by the sea. The Professor might secure a wonderful addition to his cabinet from this vicinity. BRAS D OR LAKK. In the passage of the Bras D'Or another notable geological formation is brought to view, where far off to the eastward glisten in the sunlight the heights of the Marble Mountain. Its product is a very fair white marble, which has not been extensively quarried, coal being more in the line of trade. We pass through the Bras D'Or to the towns which lie upon the seaward side of the isle. They are Sydney-old-town, noted for its coal mines, whose vast sunless depths extend for two miles under the ocean, and for its fine piers, from which are shipped annually immense quantities of Sydney coal, known wherever coal is burned, from the field which is estimated . to contain a thousand million tons, not to include seams less than four feet in thickness, nor the vast quantities which lie under the sea between the islands of Cape Sr.A COAST K/':SOKTS. 73 11 Rreton and Newfoiindlaiul. North Sydney is of more commercial importance than the old town. Within its harbor (jathrr vessels of every class. It is a famous coaling station for ocean steamers, and a right, lively little port. Hetween (,'ape North and Cape St. Lawrence, upon the far north- ern extremity of tiie island, an ocean cable is landed in Aspy Bay and operated at North Sydney. It is but fifty miles from the North Cape to the Magdelen Islands, the cruising ground of the cod-fishing fleet to the (Irand Hanks of Newfoundland. Haddeck is another famous old town at the head of Ste. Ann's Bay, reached by steamer from Sydney. A few hours' journey from Baddeck will take one into a country where moose and caribou are plenty, and where the sportsman may either camp-out in the wilderness, or make his head- (juarters with some one of the well-to-do farmers of Inverness or Victoria county's occasional settlements. i THE RUINS OF LOUISUURO. South of, and reached by narrow-gauge rail from Sydney, is Louis- burg, on the Atlantic shore, where, upon the maps, it presents the appearance of being ever ready to drop off into space. The Louisburg of to-day has a population of about one thou.sand souls, and is situated just across the harbor from the old fortified town which bears so important a part in history. The railroad fare from Sydney is but 75 cents, and all visitors to the island of Cape Breton should make the trip. The Louisburg Land Company's hotel affords fine accommodations and the site of old Louisburg may be easily reached and the lines of its old fortifications traced. Nearly a century has elapsed since the fall of Louisburg, and nothing remains to mark this stronghold of the French in America, save the relics of a structure which cost the treasury of Louis XV. thirty millions of livres, and the labor of twenty-five years to erect. Its walls of stone, which made a circuit of two and one half miles, were thirty-six feet in height, and of a uniform thickness of forty feet. Fifteen thousand people were gathered in and about these walls ; six thousand troops were locked within this fortress when tiie gate-key turned in the mammoth lock. The foundations of the town were laid in the early part of the last century, just after the death of Louis XIV., and named in honor of the departed monarch. Nova Scotia proper had been granted here and there to adventurous would-be colonists and their leaders, but the ancient island Cape Breton still owed allegiance to the r* V li ■:M\ 74 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. iltiii'M' THE RUINS 'F LOUISBURG. ii lilies of France. Of all the harbors which the island bore, this was selected as the most advau'^ageous, and here was built the city which was designed to be the key to the Western Hemisphere. " It was environed/' says Belknap, " two miles and a half in circum- ference, with a rampart of stonvi trom thirty to thirty-six feet high, and a ditch eight feet wide. There were six bastions and batteries, containing embrasures for one hundred and forty-eight cannon. On an island at the entrance of the harbor was planted a battery of thirty cannon, cai*rying twenty-eight-pound shot, and at the bottom of the harbor was a grand, or royal battery, of twenty-eight cannon, forty-two pounders, and two eighteen pounders. On a high cliff opposite the island-battery stood a light-house, and within this point, secure from all winds, was a careening wharf and a magazine of naval stores." The entrance to the town was over a drawbridge, spanning the moat, near which was a circular battery mounting sixteen fourteen- pounder guns, and yet, with all their show of arms, Louisburg, the naval depot of France in America, the nucleus of its military power, the protector of its fisheries, the Sebastopol of the New World, fell before the undisciplined troops of the colonies of Massachu.setts, Connecticut and New Hampshire, led by William Pepperel, a fish and shir.gle merchant of Maine. In three years after its capture by the colonial troops Louisburg was restored to the French by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. Ten years passed and a greater fleet, a more numerous army and heavier o a3> ■\ L r SEA COAST A'ESOA'7'S. / armament besieged its almost impregnable walls, when^in 17^8; 4he. • ^.""v English under Amherst, Boscawen and Wolfe gathered i^oJess than ' twenty-three ships of war, eighteen frigates, and sixteen thousariT" ' land forces, with a proportionable train of cannons and mortars, against the city. It fell after a two months' storm of fire and iion, of rocket, shot, and shell. — fell, and the lilies of France waved over Louisburg no more. Possessed a second time of the fortress city, and the conquest of Canada achieved, England's edict went forth that Louisburg should be destroyed. It required two years and the aid of gunpowder to complete the work of demolition, but in the end ii; v;as thoroughly done and the once proud city, which had borne a monarch's title, sank into a shapeless ruin. To-day, the t^^^iist stands amid the theatre of such events and with his opened history marks the scene of struggle. Here lay the frigates of Louis ; opposite, where the parapets c*^ stone are yet visible, was the grand battery of forty guns. There the great sev- enty-four blew up. This ground has shuddered day and night for continued weeks at the roar of battle ; and here are we, summer travellers from the busy marts of trade, day-dreaming in this bit of Europe in America. Prince Edward's Island and Cape Breton together form an attrac- tive page in the summer literature of the northeast. Many of their points and features must necessarily be omitted in the brief chapter devoted to them in the descriptive of t.ie whole Maritime Provinces ; and it is with the hope that the little which has been said will create a desire for a personal visit, that we leave their island shores for the lower peninsula of Nova S'-oti.. >4^r-r^rx 4».- V I. ■ ■'/ Si! CHAPTER XI THE LOWER PENINSULA OF NOVA SCOTIA — HA/.IFAX, THE METROPOLIS OF THE PROVINCE AND ITS FORTIFIC/ TIONS — THK ANNAPOLIS VALLEY — YAKM )UTH. nrO REACH Halifax, and through it the " Land of Evangeline " ■*■ by the rail-route, we take the diverging line from Truro, which has before been referred to as tipping abru)tly down the peninsula of Nova Scotia, and follow through fertile fields and upland inter- vale, a transition, indeed, from the rugged scenery of Cape Breton, until this fine farming district is lost amid the desolate rocks which abound, to the exclusion of all other craps, at Windsor Junction fourteen miles from Halifax. A* this point the Windsor and Annapol s Railway forms a junction V, ith ;.ie Intercolonial and "all changi" for the run down the Annapolis Valley to Annapolis, on ths famous "Basin." It is twelve miles, by steamer through the Basin to Digby, where another line, the Western Counties Railway, leads to Yarmouth at the extreme of the peninsula, and the veritable jumping-off place of oft (juotation. Both the Windsor and Annapolis, a ul Western Counties roads skirt the Bay of Fundy shore of Nova Scotia, linking its towns to the exclusion of the Atlantic coast-lim;, which has its only railway point in Halifax. After leaving ^•-a■ld.« or Junction the approach to the city of Halifax is along the shores jf the famous Bedford Basin, upon which the city is situated — a nob.e marine view which deepens in interest as the train nears the journey's end. Halifax, from the very nature of iis position, the most eastern city of its size upon the western hemisphere, is, in name, familiar to all Americans, and is oftener in the mc uths of man, — as a mild sort of invective, — than many a western metropolis. One could go farther, however, and fare worse than being con- signed to Halifax, for this is the most thoroughly British City on the continent, and, as such, holds mucl of interest to the American tourist. It is a garrison town as well i'.s a naval station, and one meets in the streets the regulation Red-Coats and jJlue-Jackets at every turn. Everything suggesting impending hostilities, " the pomp 77 78 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. AY: and circumstance of glorious war," encounters the peaceful tourist upon street-corners, while the citadel towers upon the summit of the hill-city of Halifax. Let us climb this hill, and from the great stone fortress look out over the broad bay 256 feet below. Like nearly all large cities upon the seaboard, the site of Halifax is a peninsula, with the sea upon the east and west. To the south and east is the harbor, which narrows as it reaches the upper end of the city and expands again into Bedford Basin, which affords ten miles of safe anchorage. The approach to the city is strongly for- tified, as well becomes this British stronghold. View from the citadel the magnificent bay, where vessels, flying every flag which protects a floating commerce, are at anchor. Let your vision extend ever the islands to the wide ocean beyond, bounded only by the horizon's line. Turn to the scene presented inland, where stretch away vast verdant plains dotted with settle- ments and cottages, with now and then glimpses of blue water, and you will return to the town below, fairly impressed with Halifax and its surroundings. The fortifications upon McNab's and George's Islands, as well as the various forts around the shore, are all well worth a visit after the citadel. Visitors are readliy allowed to inspect the works, but sketches or pencil notes of the defences will not be permitted by the authorities. After a visit the tourist will have no doubts of the exceeding strength of Halifax over all the cities of America. Hospitality is a virtue particularly grateful to the stranger tourist, and hospitality abounds among the good people of Halifax, even for the rebellious Yankee, in spite of the LoyaliF.t forefathers of the city. The hotels afford fine accommodations, with plenty of solid accompaniments — the viands of Merry England, specialties partaken of so generously by the characters of Dickens — which give an appe- tite on the reading merely of those delightful spreads- - washed down by generous pori'ons of right good H'inglish H'ale. Livery outfits, for the many delightful drives out and about tlie city, are procurable at modest rates of hire, and boats of every description for the exploration of the Bedford Basin may always be had. There is much to be seen inside the city. The Province Build- ings, new and old ; the Museum, the Public (lardens, the Fish- Market, and the many public institutions, all open to inspi;ction and all worthy a visit. Halifax lias direct rail and steamship connection m\ SEA COAST KESOKTS. 19 for all parts of the world, and marks the point of shortest ocean passage between America and Europe. It is the port of call for many lines crossing the Atlantic, and without delay one may go to Liverpool, Glasgow, the West Indies, New York, Boston, Portk J, Newfoundland, or Quebec. If you desire a sea voyage, choose ! THE PENINSULA OF NOVA SCOTIA. Bordering the Atlantic, from Yarmouth upon the south to Halifax in the centre and beyond to the Strait of Canso, a rugged coast line with deep bays, numerous peninsulas and islands, receives the almost mid-ocean waves. It is a wild shore, where fishing is extensively carried on, the numerous arms of the sea admirably suiting the occupation of the people. These coast settlements are linked with Halifax by water-routes, the rail is yet to come. Back from the coast line the country abounds with heavy forests, and is abundantly watered by lakes and streams. Moose and caribou roam these forest wilds, and may be found within easy distance from the settlements. The fishing is excellent, and from June to Septem- ber the catch of sea trout and salmon cannot fail to satisfy all. For the Bay of Fundy shores, the upper part of the Peninsula of Nova Scotia, about Annapolis, Digby, the Basin of Minas, Blomi- don. Grand Pre, and other points so closely woven in the verse of tbnt- American classic, " Evangeline ; " such distfnctive features exist, and so much of interest centres, that we take leave of the provinces for a time at Halifax to once more approach by the Direct Line of the li ';ernational Steamship Company from Boston to the " Land of Evangeline," an uninterrupted ocean voyage of three hundred miles. CHAPTER XII. THE DIRECT LINE FROM BOSTON TO PIOI'.Y, ANNAPOMS, AND TIIF, I, AND UF EVANGELINE — ADVANTAGES OF A CHOICE OK HOUTES — THE END OF GRAND VV.t., '"P*HE reader must not infer, from the fact that a special feature -^ is made of The Direct Route from Hostoii to l)iKl>y. <>i' that a separate Hne is maintained, that this is tile only route for reaching that Garden of the Provinces, tlie Aimapolis Valley. Steamer City of Monticello leaves St. John, in coiniection with the route we have been following, at 7.25 A. M. each day of the week, (except Sunday and Tuesday) ; crossing the May of I''undy, to Annapolis and Digby, there to meet trains of the Windsor and Annapolis, and Western Counties railways running north and south on the peninsula. The advantages of The Direct Route, however, are numerous, which, to those' who wish the sea-coast ocean voyage wilhoMt the calls at Portland, Passamaquoddy and St. John harbors, will readily commend it. It is the only line between Boston and Nova Scotia running a side-wheel steamer, elegantly fitted and furnished, couibining luxury and comfort, obtainable only on this class of steamboats. The passage of the steamer from the Bay of Kundy into the Annapolis Basin, is through the narrow Digby Strait, with a range of high hills upon either side. The wiiole coast from Ih'ier Island, at the southern entrance of the Hay of Fundy, to MIouudon on the Basin of Minas, a distance of one hundred and tiiirty miles, is pro- tected by these rocky barriers, whicii here divide in a narrow water- way. After passing the strait this arm of the sea broadens into the great land-locked basin ; a peculiarity of these provinc'ial seas, as witness the Bedford Basin at Halifax, the Strait of (!anso, and numerous others of less note. The hrst stop of the steamer is at Digby, then on to Annapolis, twelve miles distant, and about mitl- way the beautiful inland sea. The steamboat journey bdween the two towns is full of interest. 80 Iil SPLIT ROCK, BASIN OF MINAS, N, S. 82 INTERNATIOXAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. This is the oldest European settlement in America, north of the Gulf of Mexico. It was the ancient capital of Acadia. We have noted it before as the first landing place of the Des Monts expedi- tion in 1604, who afterward visited Passamaciuoddy, passing the luckless winter on Douchet's Island in the St. Croix. The town was then Port Royal ; changed a century later after the English con- quest, to Annapolis in honor of their queen. The early settlement was farther down shore than the present town, but all about is his- toric ground. Where now all is peace and beauty, the blast of wars great organs rent the sky, in the early days of conquest, when the roses of England supplanted the lilies of France in the possession of these shores. Port Royal has shared the fate of Louisburg and other Acadian strongholds, and its fort has become a ruin. It is here, at Annapolis, that we take the train through "the Valley," to the historic ground about the Basin of Minas. A valley, indeed, and in every .sense of the word. It lies between the South Mountain range and the North Mountains which guard the coast line. Along its entire length, and directly through its centre extend the rails of the Windsor ar arms against the allied forces of countrymen and friends. The people revolted, and three hundred of the younger and braver among them took up arms against their oppressors. At the fort of Beau Sejour the little band made their gallant stand, and were defeated. In vain the majority protested that this act of the few was contrary to their wishes, contrary to their peaceful habits, and beyond their control. The whole Acadian people were by this rash act placed under the ban. The edict went forth. All were to be transported from their homes and fertile fields, banished, dispersed among the various British hi 84 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. colonies to the south. To carry out this plan, five transports, and a force of New England troops were dispatched to the Basin of Minas. Arrived there a proclamation, so ambiguous in its nature as to give no hint of its object, was issued to the people of the district of Grand Pre ; it read as follows : — To the inhabitants of the District of Grand Pri', Minas, River Canard, etc., as well ancient, as young men and lads : "Whereas, his Excellency, the Governor, has instructed us of his late resolution, respecting the matter proposed to the inhabitants, and has ordered us to communicate the same in person, his P^xcel- lency being desirous that each of them should be fully satisfied of his Majesty's intentions, which he has also ordered us to communi- cate to you, such as they have been given to him. We therefore order and strictly enjoin, by these presents, all of the inhabitants, as well of the above-named District, as of all other districts, both old men and young men, as well as all the lads of ten years of age, to attend at the church of Grand Pre on Friday, the fifth instant, at three of the clock in the afternoon, that we may impart to them what we are ordered to communicate to them, declaring that no e.xcuse will be admitted on any pretense whatever, on pain of for- feiting goods and chattels, in default of real estate. Given at Grand Pre, second of September, 1755, and twenty-ninth of his Majesty's reign. JOHN WINSLOW, Colonel Commanding." Four hundred and eighteen able-bodied men heeded the summons. These were shut into the church, and Colonel Winslow, placing him- self with his officers in the centre, addressed them. You have read the remainder in Longfellow's version of the tale. " The poor people, unconscious of any crime, petitioned Colonel Winslow for leave to visit their families, and entreated him to detain a part only of the prisoners as hostages, urging with tears and prayers their intention to fulfill their promise of returning after taking leave of their kindred and consoling them in their distress and misfortune. The answer of Colonel Winslow to this petition was to grant leave of absence to twenty only for a single day. This sentence they bore with fortitude and resignation, but when the hour of embarkation arrived, in which they were to part with their friends and relatives without a hope of ever seeing them again, and to be dispersed among strangers, whose language, customs, and religion were opposed to their own, the weakness of their human nature prevailed, and they were overpowered with a sense of their H, li SEA COAST KESO/iTS. 85 mUcricH, The young men were first ordered to go on board one of the vcmhcIh, 'I'his they instantly and peremptorily refused to do, llcclnring that they would not leave their parents, but expressing a williiiKiicHH to comiily with the order, provided they were permitted to embark with their families. The request was rejected, and the tl'oopH ordered to fix bayonets and advance toward the prisoners, a motion which had the effect of producing obedience on the part of tilt) y(»l(ng men, who forthwith commenced their march. The road from the cluipel to the shore — just one mile in length — was crowded with women and children, who, on their knees, greeted tlU'Hi aM they passed with their tears and their blessing.s, while the priMonerM advanced with slow and reluctant steps, weeping, praying, ttild Hinging hymns. This detachment was followed by the seniors, who paNsed through the same scene of sorrow and distress. In this man tier was the whole male part of the population of the District of MhiaH put on board the five tran.sports stationed in the river Gas- pdreaii, and thus were the remainder of the 18,000 Acadians sent into a Mimilar exile. Who has not followed them in fancy, and through the beautiful verse of Evangeline. Turn now to a more pleasing subject, the beautiful valley which they left, The author of " Sparrowgrass Papers" — old-timers will remember them with pleasure — says in description'of the Maritime Provinces : , *' Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rare forner of creation — and, compared with it, we can boast of no HCtMlcry HO beautiful — the Valley of Grand Pre transcends all the rent in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One has its Gertrude, the other its I'lvangeline. But Campbell never saw Wyoming. Longfellow never vinitcd the Basin of Minas." It in trne the poet never visited the scene which his verse has made famoUH, It is said he feared his high ideal would become wrecked ll[)on reality ; but he had no need; he would have missed the forest primeval, but in all else the scene is in keeping with his fancy. GRANUE FINALE. "This is Acadia — this the land That weary souls liave sighed for ; This is Acadia, this the land Heroic hearts have died for : Yet, strange to tell, this promised land Has never been applied fur ! " - ? IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■• 6" ► 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14:i3U (716) 873-4503 ^ A' 86 INTERN A TTONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Thus says an old song, to which we must take exception in its final line. It has been, and is, applied for by an ever-increasing number of summer tourists who have found that here can the great- est amount of enjoyment and recreation be had at a moderate cost. The very idea of the old song explains the chief charm which the Provinces hold for summer sojourners from "The States." It is Acadia — fresh, rural, pastoral. The same conditions exist, among its rural types, as fifty years ago. Its very season is an oddity to the American guest, who may again enjoy the " garden truck " fruits and flowers of spring and early summer by a mid-summer trip to Acadia. ; Phenomenally moderate — though not cheap in one sense of the word, — are all the accompaniments to thorough enjoyment of an outing passed beneath provincial skies. Hotel rates are low, and carriage hire does not deplete the pocket-book to an extent which renders that delightful pastime a thing to be indulged in sparingly. Good guides may be had in all hunting and fishing regions, at " a dollar a day and found." Canoes and boats are plenty, while sail and steam are ready at every point of vantage to aid the tourist-traveler. When these are coupled with cool, bracing air, clear skies, and delightful scenery, in a country colored by history and filled with the interest of tradition, song, and story, where every prospect is new, and delightfully foreign to an American mind and fancy, it is not wonderful that the old song becomes inapplicable to one of the finest vacation regions extant. ' 4i jT "' '*^*" •v / LOCAL PASSENGER FARES. ONE WAY AND RETURN. FROM BOSTON Boston to Annapolis, N, S.J direct, . " " " " via St. Joiin, " " Calais, Me " " Digl)y, N. S., direct, " " " " via St. John, " " East port, Me., " ♦' Portland, Me., " " Robbinston, Me., " "St. Andrews, N. B., " " St. John, N. B., FROM PORTLAND. Portland to Annapolis, N. S., via St. John, " " Calais, Me., . •« " Digby, N. S., " " Eastport, Me., ** " Robbinston, Me., " " St. Andrews, N. B " "St, John, N. B., FROM OTHER POINTS. Calais to St. John, N. B Robbinston to St. John, N. B., St. Andrews to St. John, N. B Eastport to St. John, N. B., iS"The above one-way rates are for limited tickets. ONE WAV. RETURN. $S.oo $8.00 5- SO 10.00 4-5° 8.00 4- 50 7.00 5. 00 io,oo 4.00 7- so 1. 00 2.00 450 8.00 450 &00 4.50 &9P fS.oo fo.oo 4.00 7.a> 4-5° ■■9*-e& 3-5° 6.56 4.00 7.0© 4.00 7.00 4.00 7.00 fi.50 $2.50 1.50 . a.50 1.50 a. 50 1.50 *as Unlimited tickets are sold at an advance. Return tickets are good during the year in which they are pur- chased. CONNECTIONS FOR GASPE AND BAIE DE CHALEUR. Steamer "Admiral" will leave Dalhousie on Wednesday and Saturday morn- ings for Gaspe. Returning from Gaspe Thursday and Monday mornings. At Pictou, connections made with Steamer Seavcr for Magdalene Islands, Georgetown, and Souris, P. E. T. Steamers of the Prince Edward Island Navigation Company connect daily to and from Pt. du Chene and Pictou with trains of the Intercolonial Railway. 87 Passenger Fares by way of Boston and Nova Scotia DIRECT LINK. Between Boston and N. S. Annapolis Digby Avonport " Aylesford " Barrington " Beaver Bank " Bedford " Berwick " BrideetowD " Caledonia " Cambridire " Coldbrooic " Ellershousc " Falmouth " Grand Prd " Halifax " Hantsport " Horton Landing " Kenlville " Un- limi'd ls.oo 4.50 6.70 5.80 7.8s 8.00 S-9S 5.00 7.00 6.10 6.15 7-3° 6.7s 6.50 8.00 6.7s 6.50 6..:3 Lim- ited. I7.00 6.95 7.00 6.00 6.75 7.00 Re- turn. |8.oo 7.5Q 11.60 10,10 13.50 14.00 I0.3S Q.OO 10.60 10. 7S ia.6s la.oo 11.4s 14.00 11.8s II 50 11.00 Brtwrhn Bohton and Kingiton .,,..• Lawrencetown. Liverpool ...... MetefflMn MtJdTeton............ Mount Unlfkcke Newport Parnalie ... PortWllllBmi Pubnico Round Hill Shelburne Watervllle Weymouth Wilmot WlndKor WIndior Junction...! Wolfvllle, Yarmoutb.,.. ,N, S, Un- llml*d $5>M J.ao 8.30 6.is S>3) 7.60 7.10 J.lo 6.4s 5.00 6,00 !t'4S 7.0s 8,ao 6.30 Lim- ited. $7.00 5.00 6.95 6.75 6.50 8.00 5.00 6.50 7.00 S.00 Re- turn. $9 7S 9.25 950 '3I5 ia.50 9.10 11.30 8.7s 10.50 9-55 13.00 13-50 II.30 9.00 ' Pares by this Line are $1.00 less than any othar routa to tha Annapolis Valley. GENERAL INFORMATION TO PASSENGERS. RETOrN tickets are on sale to all principal polntR, and a lafRe navlnir Is made by pur- chasing the same. All return tickets entitle the posKnger to Itop-over privileges. STATE-ROOMS AND MEALS.— Rooms may be enRaged In ndvnnce upon application by letter or telegram to the local agents of the Company. State-room berths are not sold by this Company. Rooms are fi.oo, I1.50 and |>.oo ench. There are also several bridal- rooms on each steamer, varying in price from $3.00 to $4.00. Meals are served on the American plan, at the following price : Breakfast or supper, so cents | dinner, 75 cents. CHILDREN'S TICKETS.— Children between the ages of five and twelve, half-fare; under five, free. OPTIONAL TICKETS.— All tickets reading between RoHton and St. John will be accepted between Boston and Annapolis direct. Pasiengers huldlnx tickets reading by the dirtct line between Boston and Annapolis may travel by way of 8t. John by the payment of $1.35 to the purser of the iirst steamer to whom the ticket li presente I. This arrange- ment will apply to tickets reading from as well ai t« Nova Scotia, allowing passengers to vary their trips. REDEMPTION OF TICKETS.- In the purchase of tickets, paiiengen are reminded that any portion of a ticket not used will be redeemed at lis value at the Boston wharf agency, cither by mail or upon personal application. This will apply to tickets Issued by this Company over its connections as well as over its own lines, STEAMERS' Landings.— From Boston, the steamers of the St. John line leave the loutk sidt of Commercial Wharf, and the steamers of the direvt Nova Scotia line leave the north side of the same pier. At Porti.anp, the Steamers leave Railroad Wharf, foot of State Street. At Eastport, the steamers of the International S. S. Co., the Campobello steamer, and the St. Croix River steamer for St, Andrews, Robblnston, and Calais land at same pier. At St. John, the Company's pivr Is at Kced's Point. 88 TARIFF OF RATBS. SUBJECT TO SLIGHT CHANGES WITHOUT NOTICE. DESTINATION. AMHERST, N. S do. and Return. Andover, N. B do. and Return. Annapolis, N. S do. and Return. Antigonish, N. S do. and Return. Auburn, Me. (M. C. R. R.).. do. (G. T. R'y). Augusta, Me Aylesford, N. S do. and Return. T3ADDECK, C. B do. and K'^turn. Bangor, Me Bar Harbor, Me Bath, Me Bathurst, N. B do. and Return. Beaver Bank Berwick, N, S do. and Return. Bethel, Me Bethlehem, N. H Bridgetown, N. S do. and Return. Brunswick, Me /-•ALAIS, Me do. and Return.. Caledonia Comer, N. S Cambridge, N. S do. and Return.. Cambellton, N. B do. and Return.. Campobello, N. B. do. and Return.. Caribou, N. B. (via St. John). do. and Return.. Charlottetown, P. E. I do. and Return., Chatham, N. B do. and Return.. Crawford House, N. H Cutler, Me do. and Return.. T-)ALHOU6lE, N. B. do. ""'' ^ Digby, N. S. do. Dorchester, N. B do. and Return. PASTPORT, Me. do. and Return. EUershouse, N. S do. and Return. and Return, and Return, From Boston. | From Portland. Unlimited. Limited. Unlimited. Limited. % 8.25 13-65 8.80 14-45 6.00 10.00 10.75 17.40 2.00 2.00 3.00 7-30 12.10 13-50 22.60 5-25 4-50 2.25 9-50 15-50 8.70 7-45 12.35 3.80 5-50 6.50 11.00 2.00 5-50 8.00 8.50 7.60 12.60 10.50 17.00 5-25 8.00 9-50 15-50 9-50 16.25 9.00 14-75 4-25 5.00 7-50 10.25 16.80 6.00 10.00 7-70 12.85 5.00 7-50 8.80 14.65 % 7-75 12.65 8.30 >3-45 5-50 9.00 10.25 16.40 ] 1 5-50 10.25 * 5.00 9-75 6.80 6.80 II. 10 13.00 21.60 6.30 13.00 12.50 9.00 14.50 8.20 6.95 "-3S 8.20 6-95 7.70 6.45 6.00 6.00 10.00 5-50 4-50 5.00 7.00 8.00 7.10 11.60 10.00 16.00 4-75 7.00 9.00 14.50 9.00 8.50 13-75 4.00 8.00 7.10 7.50 6.60 4.25 3-75 4-50 4.50 6.50 9-75 17.80 5-50 9.00 7.20 11.85 4-50 6.50 8.30 13-65 3-50 5-00 4.50 4.00 3-50 8.00 7-50 89 TARIFF OF RATES.— Continued. DESTINATION. PABYAN'S, N. H ^ Falmouth, N. S do. and Return Fort Fairfield, Me do. and Return Fredericton, N. B do. and Return QRAND PKt, N. S do. and Return TJALIFAX, N. S. (via I. C. R'y). do. and Return do. (viaW, A. R'y.... do. and Return Hantsport, N. S do. and Return Har Au Bouche Heatherton Hopewell Houlton, Me l^ENTVILLE, N. S do. and Return Kingston, N. S do. and Return T AWRENCETOWN, N. S do. and Return Lewiston, Me Liverpool, N. S Londonderry, N. S do. and Return IVTECHANIC FALLS, Me ^^^ Metapediac, N. B do. and Return Meteghan, N. S Middleton, N. S do. and Return Moncton, N. B do. and Return Montreal, P. Q. (G. T. R'y) do. (viaP. &0. R'y). Mt. Uniacke, N. S do. and Return Mulgrave, N. S do. and Return XTEW CASTLE, N. B do. and Return New Glasgow, N. S » do. and Return New Mills, N. B do. and Return North Conway, N. H Norway, Me Ol'D ORCHARD, Me ^ Oxford, N. B do. and Return pARADISE, N. S do. and Return Peticodiac, N. B do. and Return Prom Boston. Cm.IMITED. I LiMITBD. » 4- 5° 8.25 I4.cx> 9.20 'S05 5-5° 95° 8.00 »3-4S 95° 1550 9.80 1550 8.25 13.85 11.50 II. 10 9.50 7-75 7-75 13.00 7-oS "•75 6.70 11.25 2.00 10.00 9-75 15.10 2.30 10.70 «7-3S 6-75 6.85 11.50 7.15 12.00 8.50 8.50 9.10 15.15 11.90 19.10 8.75 14.40 9.50 15.50 10.10 16.45 3.20 2.95 1.35 8.80 14.40 6.60 1 1. 10 6.50 11.00 I * 7-75 7.50 9.00 8.20 7-75 I!. 00 10.60 9.00 6.50 7.25 6.55 6.20 9.50 9.25 6.25 6.35 8.25 11.00 9.00 6.10 From Portland. Unlimited. Limited, ? 7-75 13.00 8.70 1405 5.00 8.50 7.50 12.45 9.00 14.50 930 14.50 7-75 12.85 11.00 10.60 9.00 7.25 7.25 12.00 6.55 10.75 6.20 10.25 9.50 9.25 14.10 10.20 16.35 6.25 6.35 10.50 6.65 11.00 8.60 14.15 11.40 18.10 8.25 13.40 9.00 14.50 9.60 15.45 8.30 13.40 6.10 10.10 6.00 10.00 f 7.25 7.00 '8.'so 7.70 7.25 10.50 10.10 8.50 6.00 6.75 6.05 5.70 9.00 8.75 5-75 5.85 7.75 10.50 8.50 5.60 W( SP 90 TARIFF OF RATB8.-Coiitinued. DESTINATION. Pictou, N. S do. and Return Poland Springs , ,,, , Portland, Me >... do. and Return do. and Return (rrtll), ... Port Williams, N. S do. and Return .,,.... .....(■.....(• f I . I . . 1 1 1 . Presque Isle, Me ,, ,,, Profile House, N. II ..,..,.. .1.. do. and Return ,,,.... Pt. DuChene, N. Ii do. and Return Pt. Hawkesburg, C. B ■ do. and Return... ..!...<•• Pt. Hastings , UOBBINSTON, Me do. and Return Round Hill do. and Return CACKVILLE, N. B •^ do. and Return Salisbury, N. B do. and Return Stewiacke , do. and Return ,,,,,. Straits Canso, N. S. (Pt. Hawktdmry)... do. and Return ,,,... Summerside, P. E. I , do. and Reiurn.. .......... Sussex, N. B do. and Return Sydney, C. B do. and Return,,,..,.,.,.. ^THOMPSON, N. S..... do. and Re Tracadie Truro, N. S do. and Return..., ,, WATERVILLE, N. S do. and Return VVeldford, N. B do. and Return ,,,,,.. Wcntworth, N. S do. and Retuin,.,.,, ,,,,,, Weymouth, N. S , Whycocomaugh ,,,,,,,,.. Wilmot, N. S. do. and Return,,,,,,,,,,., Windsor, N. S do. and Retlirn ,, Wolfville, N. S do. and Return, Woodstock, N. B. (via CaluiH) ,,,,.,, YARMOUTH, N. S do. and Return, ...tM.nti and Return,, , •■•iiiiiiiiti Fhom BodtoN. 1 From Portland. UNt.lMITMtl. •1 9.50 15.50 a. 75 t.oo 3.00 4.00 7.95 • 3.20 9.90 0.90 11.80 7.50 12. 50 13.00 19.30 12.05 5.50 8.00 6.50 11.00 8.05 «3.35 0.80 ii.40 9.50 15.50 12,00 19.30 8,25 14.00 5.80 Id, 00 14.90 24.10 8.85 14.50 11.30 9.50 '5.50 7.50 13,50 8.05 '3 JO 9.00 14.75 ft. 80 14.40 f'.95 •1.55 H.55 14.00 8,00 13.30 7.75 8.45 I a. 75 LiMITRI). 1 $ 9.00 Uni.imitki). LiMITKD. f 9.00 14. go $ 8.50 1 1 . 3.50 '7-45 7-45 12.20 9.40 6-95 7.00 11.50 11.50 18.30 11-55 5-00 7.00 6.00 10.00 7-55 12-35 6.30 10.40 9.00 14-50 11.50 18.30 7-75 13.00 5-30 9.00 14.40 23.10 8.35 13-50 10. So 9.00 14.40 7.00 11.50 7- 55 12.30 8.50 •3-75 6.30 13-90 6.45 10.55 8.05 13.00 7-50 12.30 7-25 7-95 '1-75 11.10 10.60 11.05 4.50 10.65 4.00 6.00 5-50 9.00 8.50 11.10 10.60 14.00 13-50 10.80 9.00 10.30 8.50 7.00 6.50 5.00 •3-50 6-45 4-50 13.00 5-95 7-75 7.50 7.25 7.00 6.50 6.50 6.00 6.00 SPECIAL NOTICE.— For rates via Direct Nova Scotia Line from Boston, see page 88. MISCELLANEOUS TOURS. Parties of ten or more travelling at one time will be furnished with special rates, upon application to the General Passenger Agent of the Company, Portland, Me. No. No. No. No. No. t. AnnapoUa and Return. $10.00 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis' by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co.; return same route. a. Antigonish, N. S., and Return. $17.40 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.: St. John to New Glasgow by Intercolonial R'y ; New Glasgow to Antigonish by Eastern Extension R'y ; return same route. 3. Calais, Me., and Return. $8.00 Boston to Eastport by International S. S. Co.; Eastport to Calais by Frontier S. B. Co.; return same route. 4. Campobello, N. B., and Return. $8.00 Boston to Eastport by International S. S. Co.; Eastport to Campobello by Campobello S. B. Co.; return same route. Charlottetown, P. E. I., and Return. $i6.a5 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co^ St. John to Vt. Du Chene by Intercolonial R'y ; I't. Du Chene to Summerside by P. E. I. steam Nav. Co.; Summerside to Charlottetown by P. E. I, R'y ; return same route. No. 6. Charlottetown, P. E. I., and Return. $ig 00 No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No No. No. No. Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to I't. Du Chene by Intercolonial R'y ; Ft. Du Chene to Summerside by P. E. I. Steam Nav. Co.; Summerside to Charlottetown by P. E. I. R'y; Charlottetown to Pictou by P. E. I. Steam Nav. Co.; Pictou to Halifax by Intercolonial R'y ; Halifax to Boston by B., H. & P. E. I. S. S. Line. 7. Dighy, N. S., and Return. $10.00 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Digby by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co.; return same route. 8. Eastport, Me., and Return. $7.50 Boston to Eastport by International S. S. Co.; Eastport to Boston by International S. S. Co. g. Port Pairfield and Return. $15.05 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Fredericton by Union Line Steamers ; Fredericton to Ft. Fairfield by New Brunswick K'y ; return same route. 10. Halifax and Return. $15.50 Boston to St. John by International S, S. Co. ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co. ; Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & Annapolis K'y ; return same route. 11. Halifax and Return. $15.50 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Halifax by Intercolonial K'y; return same route. la. Halifax and Return. $17.50 Boston to Halifax via Excursion No. 12 and return via Excursion No. 13, or vict virsa. 13. Halifax and Return. $15.50 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Halifax by Intercolonial R'y ; Halifax to Boston by B., H. & P. E. I. S. S. Line. 14. Halifax and Return. $17.50 Boston to St. John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Halifax by Intercolonial R'y ; Halifax to Annapolis by Windsor Hi Annapolis R'y ; Annapolis to Boston by International S. S. Co. \ 15. Halifax and Return. $16.00 Boston to Annapolis by International S. S. Co.- Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & Annapnljs R'y ; Halifax to Annapolis by Windsor & Annapolis R'y ; Annapolis to St. John by Ray of Fundy S. S. Co.; St. John to Boston by International S. S. Co. 16. Halifax and Return. $i7<50 Boston to Annapolis by International S. S. Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & Annapolis R'y ; Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial R'y ; St. John to Boston by International S. S Co. 17. Halifax and Return. $14.00 Boston to Annapolis by International S. S. Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & Annapolis R'y ; Halifax to Boston by B., H. & P. E. I. S. S. Line. 9a ^ r I ^ N N N N N N N Ni N( N< N< MISCELLANEOUS TOURS.- Continued. N0> ill Kentville and Return. Vs-oo Nflflon to it, John by tnlfrnalional S. S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy S. S. Ce.| AnnH|K>lla in Kentville by WinUaur & Annapolis K'y ; return same route. No. 191 Montreal and Return. $14-00 Hoalnil In f'nrillinil by International S. S. Co.; Portland to Montreal by Grand Trunk R'y; rpiurn t»m» ruiiie. No. Ml Montreal and Return. llMlAn III Hi. John by tnternational S. S. Co.: St. John to Montreal by Canadian Pacific Short 1.1118 1 MoHirail to Hoston by Can. Pac. K'y via Newport. $«6.50 No. 11. Mulgrave and Return. $19.10 Uuslon In Hi, John tiy International S. S. Co.; St. John to New Glasgow by Intercolonial K'y ; NtW ti\»»ltOW to Mulgrave by Eastern Extension R'y ; return same route. No. M, New Cattle, N. B., and Return. $14.40 Hrmlftn In Hi, John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to New Caitle by Intercolonial R'y ; ritiirn ftitme rniitt, No. S3. Plctou, N. S., and Return. $15.50 Hiwliin lo Ht, Jiihn by tnternational S. S. Co.; St. John to Truro by Intercolonial R'v; return URtHl ruule. No. t4i Portland, Me., and Return. $a.oo liODlUH te Portland by Internationai S. S. Co.; Portland to Uostnn l>y International S. S. Co. No. IS. Portland, Me., and Return. HilSlon lu Porllind by International S. S. Co.; Portland to Boston by Boston & Maine R. R.; if llmll«d lleket, (ti.v>. No, (6. Sydney, C. B., and Return. $4.00 $34.10 Ilesinn le Hi, John by tnternatinnal S. S. Co.; St. John to New GiasKow by Intercolonial R'y ; New OlaKMow to Mulgrave liy Eastern Extension R'y; Mulgrave to Sydney by Bras d'Ur l.fllts H, H, Co.; return same route. No. aj, St. John, N. B., and Return. $10.50 Hoiton le Annitpolls by International S. S. Co.; Annapolis to St. John by Day of Fundy S. S. Co,| Hi. John to Boston by International S. S. Co.; or vice vtrsa. No, al. St. John, N. B., and Return. $19.00 llnilinn l« KAltlHort by International S. S. Co ; Eastport to Calais by Frontier S. B. Co.; Calais le Hi, John by Grand Southern R'y ; return same route. No. 19. Summertide, P. E. I., and Return. . Steam Nav. Co ; return same route. Ilsiilen 18 Hi, John by International S. S. Co.; St. J hn to Pt. Du Chene by Intercolonial R'y ; J't, l>ilCh«ne toSummersideby P. E. " ^ -• - $14.00 No. 30. Summerside P. E. I., and Return. $13.77 ax by Windsor & Annapolis larloltetown by P. E. I. Steam I same route. llOlilen la Anntipalls by International S. S. Co.; Annapolis to Halifax K'y; llttllf«« Id I'ictou by Intercolonial R'y; Pictou to Chariot Nav, C'o,i Charlottatown to Summerside by P. G. I. R'y ; return si No. 31. Truro, N. S., and Return. $15.50 UpMDfi It) Hi, John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Truro by Intercolonial R'y; return •an)« reuii. No, 3*. Three Provinces Excursion, $23. 10 ilOAlen 10 Hi, John by Inf ernmional S. S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co.; AflnHlielln III lift Ifax by Windsor & Annapolis RV ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial R'y ; PJBIOH 111 Chatliilletown by P. E. I. Steam Nav. Co.; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. K. I, M'v i Miimmetslile to Pt. Du. Chene by P. E. I. Steam Nav. Co.; Pt. Du Chene to St. Jlthn by Inlereololilnl R'y; St. John to Boston by International S. S. Co.; this tour may be rev8ri«d, at same rate, If desired. No, 33. Windsor and Return. $14.00 lluMon lit SI, John by International S. S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co.; AMIiatiell>i to Windsor by Windsor & Annapolis R'y ; return same route. No. 34. ' Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. liigiiy io Vannoulh by Western Counties R'y ; return same''route' $19.75 lldHlon III Hi, John by tnlernatlonal S S. Co.; St. John 10 Digby by Bay of Fundy S. S. Co.; Ya ■' „ . _. No, 33. Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. $9.00 llni liy InlernnllunHl Steamship Company ; Annapolis to Caledonia byStailing's Coothfs 1 rHiirH itmno mute. No, 40, Digby and Return, ;)aiilun lu MiKbytllrcel, by tnturnallunal Steamship Company ; return aame route. $as,0o $13,00 I I7.S0 No, 41, Halifax and Return. VIA ANNAPOLIS. $14.00 Bnilon 10 AnnSBfllll liy tnlertimlotial steamship Company ; Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & *-- -puliij KHll AnnApulii* HHllwtty ; teliirti tame toulc. No. 4«, I I Halifax via Annapolis. HBTIIRN via ST. joiin. $16.50 lloslQn 10 AnnAimlU by f flliHtailonal Steamship Company ; Annapolis to Halifax by Windsor & Annsiiollji RRJIwrtV) llallfs)i to Annapolis by ^Vindsor& Annapolis Kailway; Annapolis to Nt, Jimn liy Niivfl ncolm Steamship Coinjmny's steamers; St. John to Boston by Interna- iioii'ni iin« lit iilimitlir» vis Kastporrand "i'ort'land! No, 43. Halifax via Annapolis. RKTUHN VIA ST. JOHN. lloelnn to Annnnnllii liy fn(« A. M. for Portland and intermediate points. Also leaves Pemaquid for Portland Fridays at 7.00 A. M. ■ s PORTLAND AND BOSTON STEAMERS.— (One hundred and ten miles.) (Portland Steam Packet Co.) Leave Portland at 7.00 P. M. daily. Returning, leave Boston at 7.00 P. M. daily. During summer season, special Sunday-evening trips are made in both directions. PORTLAND & ROCHESTER RAILROAD.— Trains leave Portland as follows : — For Worcester, Clinton, Ayer Junction, Nashua, Windham and lipping at 7.30 A. M. and 12.30 P. M. For Manchester, Concord, and points north at 12.30 P. M. For Rochester, Springvale, Alfred, Waterboro', and Saco Kiver at 7.30 A. M., 13.30 and 5.30 P. M. For Gorham at 7.30 A. M., 12.30, J. 00, 5.30 and 6.20 P. M. For Saccarappa, Cumberland Mills, Westbrook Junc- tion, and Woodford's at 7.30 and 10.00 A. M., 12.30, 3.00, 5.30 and 6.20 P. M. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAM NAVIGATION CO.— Steamer leaves Point du Chene about 2.00 P. M. daily, except Sundays, for Summerside. Returning, leaves Summerside about 8.00. Leaves Pictou. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday about i.oo P. M., for Charlottetown. Returning, leaves Charlottetown, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday about 7.00 A. M. UNION LINE STEAMER leaves St. John at 9.00 A. M. week--35 «-7S 4.50 3-75 $2.00 8.00 7.00 7.00 10.00 '075 7.00 14.50 14.r0 5.60 : 2.50 4.60 cilli com Trai at on I Rcti with of ^ Wed inori STAGE CONNECTIONS. At Shubenacadie with Stages daily for Maitland, Gay's River and Musquo- doboit, mid on Saturdays for Kennetcook and NoeL At Truro, daily with Stages for Clifton, Black Rock and Maitland, and tri- weekly for Earltown, and W. Branch River John. At Hopewell with McDaniel's Stage Line for Springville, Bridgeville, St. Paul, Upper and Lower Caledonia, Smithfield and Melrose. At PiCTOU with Stages for River John daily. At Londonderry with Stages for Acadia Iron Mines, Great Village, Economy and Five Islands. At Wentworth with Stage for Tatamagouche, daily. At Greenville with Mail Stages for Wallace and Wallace Bridge daily, and for Street's Ridge, Middleboro and Wallace Bay, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. At Thomson with Stages for Pugwash daily. At Maccan with Stages for Joggins and Minudie. At Shediac with Stages to and from Cocagne and Buctouche. At Weldford with Stages for Richibucto, Kingston and other places on North Shore. At Newcastle with tri-weekly Stage for Red Bank, Whitneyville, Derby, Blissficld, Doaktown and Fredericton. At Riviere du Loup with Turner's Mail Line for Madawaska, N. B. CAPE BRETON CONNECTIONS, 1890. Steamship Marion will leave Sydney on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, calling at Bouloidarie, Baddeck, Grand Narrows, St. Peters and Grandique Ferry, connecting with No. 20 Train. Returning leave Mulgrave on arrival of No. 19 Train, for Sydney, calling at above points and connecting with Steamship Magnolia at Baddeck for Whycocomaugh, Little Narrows and Little Bras d'Or. Steamship Neptune will leave Mulgrave on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, on arrival of No. 19 Train, for East Bay, calling at Gnandique Ferry and St. Peters. Returning from East Bay on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays in time to connect with No. 20 Train. Steamship Reinouski will leave Mulgrave every Monday and Friday, on arrival of No, 19 Train, for Arichat and Canso ; Tuesdays and Thursdays for Port Hood ; Wednesdays and Saturdays for Greysboro, Returning from above points following mornings, so as to connect with No, 20 Train. tot LIST OK HOTBJIvS. e^ This Company not responiible (or orrorii or oinlnNloiis. CiTV OR Town. Amherst, N. S Annapolis, N. S... Aylesford, N. S ... Berwick, N. S Bridfietown, N. S. Cal.iis, Me Campobello, N. B. Cutler, Me Dalhousie, N. B... DiRby, N. S. Bastport, Me Fredericton, N. B. Halifax, N.S... Kentville, N. S. Kingston, N. S Lawrencet'u, N.S. Middleton, N. S... Moncton, N. B. . . . New Gbsgow, N.S. Pt. Hastings, C. B. Portland, Me St. Andrews, N. B St. John, N. B Summcrside, P.E.I Truro, N. S Watervilli', N. S . Name of Hotel. Terrace Hotel Amherst Hotel Clifton House American House... Commercial House. Aylesford House. .. French Villa Grand Central Revere House Border City Hotel.. St. Croix E.xchange American House. . Tyn-y-coed Hotel Cutler Inch Arran House.. Murphy's Hotel Myrtle House Royal Hotel Short's Hotel Burnham House... Digby Hotel Quoddy House Barker House yueen Hotel yueen Hotel Halifax Hotel Lyons' Hotel Kentville House .. Porter House Revere House . American House. . . Victoria Hotel Kingston House. .. Rim House Valley House .\merican House. .. Urunswick House . Commercial Hou.se Vendome Caledonia Hotel . . . Falmouth Hotel . . . United States Preble House City Hotel Algonquin Argyll Dunerin Victoria Royal New Victoria Belmont Clifton yueen . . . Clifton House Hotel Russ Pr. of Wales Hotel Parker House Victoria Hotel Winan's Hotel Phopkibtoh. N. C. Calhoun Geo. McKarluiie. . Wm. McLelland. , . Mrs. J. H. McLeod Mrs. J. H. Sailer,. M. N. Graves. , , , ,, Mrs. Corbin Mrs. Vaughan W. I. (ilencroHH. , .. Mrs. Russell . D. M. Gardner ,.. I. K. Duran , jq J. G. Hamilton I 411 1,50 1,1X1 I, jo i,5u i.ua 1. 1 10 1,00 I. so I. SO 11,110 a, in t,or) Write T. B. HurkiT, MiinuKer, Write Eben Dean, 70 |)i. H. Hesslein 40Q D. McLend iH Jas. Lyons. .,,,,,,,,, siii RufuB Porter , 38 Mrs. W. Redden •» J. Mcintosh , , . , ift C. E. Farren if R. E.Davidson ,, A. P. Phinney IN. H. Phinney D. Feindal jGeo. McSweeney, , [Thos. Beech J. K. Martin Koss*t O'Connor. M. S. Gibson V. H. Sweet F. A. Jones, .,,,,, Weymouth, N. S. Windsor, N. S ... Wolfville, N. S. F. A. Jones iD. W. MtCormiik Thos. F. Raymond J. L. McCloakey ,. , iJohn Sime !A,*N. Peters IJ.C. Rickie , E. Mawley J. B. Russ A. L. McKenzie , Avon House Victor! I Hotel Clifton House Somerset House . Windsor House. . . Acadia House Central Hotel Wolfville House.. Kent Lodge American House.. VillaKe Hotel. Casson & Learmenl. J. T. Winan... W. H. Risteen T. A. Margeson.. . , . Forbes Jones, J(>hn Cox Thos. Dor.in , F. Kelcup W. (jibson. ... , ,,., Thos. Gibson. J. L. Franklyn Mrs. C. R. Uiii H. D. Farrcll. jiiln Mrs. Haliburtoii. J W. Harris Mrs^Neweombc, S" {<• H ■■5' IS' '^! '16 JO h s ( »y 911 95 4S )'< Vi 'Ju II H M i.se 1. 18 HO I. JO »,l« to 1.00 a.Of) If) i,5o 9,nt to a, JO il.cii Id |,«i to 4,ii>i 9,«o to a. 30 a.S" to J.ljrl y.oi to 8,;ti 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 . U.30 J. Ill) a.eti to H.50 3. IK) a, ml S.oo 'J.I t.So 9,111) 1,5.1 1.30 t.Su 1.30 I, oil to 1,311 i.ini liivl I. So 1,311 1.311 I, mi l.oo l.»5 1.50 t.jo 1.311 1.93 Special. $].oo to $7.00 J.cio to 7.00 4.00 to 6.00 4.00 3'5o 4,00 Special. Boston. Special. g.fio 7,00 to 10.00 3. no to 7.00 3.00 to 7.00 5.00 to 7.00 5.10 to 7.00 Special. In.oo to 14.10 to.. HI to 14. (KJ 10.50 to 16.00 lo.oo to I Coo Special. 3.00 5-00 5.00 5.00 5.00 4.00 V50 5.00 and 6.00 Special. 4.00 to s.oo lo.oo and up. to.oo and up. Speci.il. totoo and up. Special. 5.00 Special. 6,OT Special. 7.00 7.00 Special. 5.00 to 7.00 Special. 6.00 Special. 6.00 Special. 5.00 5.00 '> •>■ mm -%• ' ♦!■ ' AW Of 5r>|WD«WS «W $lANDfi£WS N.B. ^SSmmmmmii^ ii|! .... I04 II H Spur • Instead of H Drag a o CD H O Z > CO HHE MORE ACCIDENT COMPANIES SPRING up at home or come in from abroad, and the more bifter and vicious become the competition and the assaults, the more surely does The Travelers of Hartford rise above all, distance all competition, and solidify its ancient primacy. No year since 1865 has seen more widespread and determined efforts, by legitimate and illegitimate rivals at once, to divert a share of its business to their own channels ; the labor troubles in some parts have been formidable in handling and serious in cutting off its customers' earnings : yet it shows a gain in every department and factor of its business for 1889, — in assets, in surplus, in both new Life, Accident, and Ticket busi- ness written, in the amount of all retained in force, and in pre- mium receipts. Whoever sows the seed or stirs up the ground, it seems evident The Travelers is to reap the bulk of the harvest. 0) H m w > 2 O o X m m -< o 7^ M ios 1!^"?" io6 Coxe Bros. & Co. Miners anb Shippers OF ;/ CROSS CREEK, SUGAR LOAF, and BEAVER MEADOW Lehigh Coals SHIRPINQ WHARVES a Perth Amboy, South Amboy, Port Johnston. GENERAL OFFICE; Equitable Building, 1 20 Broadway, . . . NEW YORK. BRANCH OFFICES : 70 KILBY STREET, . . • BOSTON. 420 WALNUT STREET, . . PHILADELPHIA. The Rookery, CHICAGO. COAL AND IRON EXCHANGE, BUFFALO. 91 MICHIGAN STREET, . MILWAUKEE. E. B. ELY, General Agent. 107 K9TABUSHED IBSB. Taunton Copp^r M^g- Co- MANUFACTURERS OF ■hHthlng, Ctm«nalon llh««ti. Piston Roda, Bolta, Spikes, Sheathing and Slating Nails. Inget, Ihaathing, Bolti, 8h«eta of anv Size, Shape or Thicknesa, Tinned or Untinned ; CIreltf, BBtn Tuba and Locomotive Pire-Box Sheets ; Boat, Sheathing and ■latins NalU i Bath Boilers, Stove Boiler Bottoms ; Lightning Rods, Calleo frlntars' Rollers, Tack Plate, Soldering Irons. Alao, IN ■palttr, Ihaathing, DImanalon Sheets, Tack Plate ; Sheathing, Shingle and Slating Nails. OANH I'AIS rOU OLD COPPER, YELLOW METAL, BKAS8, ZINC, Etc. SELLING AGENTS : W O, ROBV ft Ce,, If Mfodd Bireet, - Boston. Taunton (!nt'fl!l( M^l*t*, Cii., si3i»outh street, N Y. l.VMAN, NfiN ft Co,, • - - Portland, Me. K. I'NATT M liNS,, tis Naiith Chartc!) St , Baltimore. G. M, JoMNItl.VN k Co,, j0 anil 4u Market Nirtel, • ■ • - Snn Francisco, Cal. auMMKV, IriNfNO A Cli , flip Mnrket HlrMtt ■ < . . ■ Philadelphia. iTAWKrKR, SKHLKMAN Ik Co., New Orleans, La. Shoemaker &Voute, 124 South Dela- ware Avenue, Henry Horsler&Co., Johnson Bros., Nealley & Co., - I. L. Snow & Co , Philadelphia. Pensacola, Fla. - Bath, Me. Bangor, Me. Rockland, Me. Frovidencs Dry Dock & Marine R'Y, Providence, R. I WEST • SHORE * RAILROAD (N. Y. C. A H. R. R. R. Co., Lessees.) Hudson River, CatskiU Mountains, Saratoga, Lake George, Lake Chamtlain, Adirondachs, Montreal, Cooper stown, Albany, Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Suspension Bridge, Chicago, St. Louis, AND ALL POINTS WEST, NORTHWEST AND SOUTHWEST. Sleeping Cars without change New York to Toronto and Chicago, and Boston to Chlcage and St. Louis, via Niagara Falls. Dmwlnjji-Uaoffl Cars between Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Long Branch, New York and Saratoga, also Philadelphia, New York and CatskiU Moun- tain* without change. BUFFET 8M0KIKG CARS ON CATSKILL MOUHTAIN AND SARATOGA TRAINS. ONLY LINE RUNNING BUFFET SLEEPING CARS BETWEEN NEW YORK AND TORONTO WITHOUT CHANGE. For Time Tables, Tourists Books and full information, address H. ■. JAQOC, C. E. LAMBERT, Sttiml latttrn Paiiengir Agent, General Passenger Agent, tea Brtadmay, NEW VOHK. B VanderUlt Avenue, NEW YORK. io8 [ H E printcri and en- gravers of this work, Matthewh, NORTMRUI' & Co., Art-Printi NO Works, Buffalo and New York, desire to call attention to Its appear- ance as a whole, The print- ing and engraving for the inside wao placed In their hands with initructions to produce as flne a work as could be furnished, with due regard to the economy of production, necessary In a very large edition for gen- eral distribution. In this connection we would call your at- tention to the fact that as the only complete printing es- tablishment, which is com- bined with a complete engraving establishment, we possess extraordinary advan- tages for the production of complete works of the high- est class. Among such works now in our hands for production are the following • R lECOND edition of "How to See Niagara," a sumptuous work, illus- trated with magnificent photo-types, and bound In unique gilt paper sides. First edition all sold at fifty cents a copy. " One of A Thousand," a magnificent royal octavo of seven hundred pages, illustrated with five hundred photo-types, and bound In three-quarter leather ; sold by subscrip- tion at $10 a copy. 100,000 cloth-bound copies " King's Handbook of the United States," over 700 pages, 50 maps in colors, 2,000 illustrations in outline. Cof. Yel \ ACH of these works has been produced for an expert, who reali;'.es the ad- vantage of having no divided responsibility In his work. OULD it not be worth your while to try a similar experiment? SI I09 WM. D. WINSOR, Presidint. S. T. SNOW, Tieasurer. JAS. E. BROWN, Agent. I^euere Qopper Qompapy 869 Atlantic Avenne, - - - Boston. 242 Sooth Street, - - - New York NCanvifaoturarci and Deal*ra In Copper and Yellow Metal Sheathing, Bolts, CompLsltlon, Copper, and Yellow Metal Nails, Composition Spikes, and Ship Fastening, Yellow Metal Pump Rods, Brazles' Copper, and D imension Yellow Metal, Cold Boiled, and Patent Leveled, In Stock and Boiled to Order. SbeathiQg Copper for Yachts a Specialty. I M PORTERS OF SHEATHIN6 FELT. .*■-■ no merican Express Co. Is the only Company which has off Iocs at all points In Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont (extending Into Canada), and Mas- sachusetts, on and north of Boston tt Albany R. R. THE AMERICAN EXPRESS CO. Is the only Company that has a contract with the Boston & Albany and New York Central Railroads for through business to the IVESr, NORTHWEST AND SOUTHWEST. THE AMERICAN EXPRESS CO. Attends to the PURCHASING OP GOODS or household suppliei, to be returned by express, with promptest attention, and WITHOUT EXTRA CHAROE FOR SUCH SERVICE. BlanlcH for orders free of charge, on application to asent*. PAYS MONEY BY TELEGRAPH between all the company's important city and villaKC agencies at Reduced Rates and uncqiialed promptness. COLLECTS DRAFTS, BILLS, NOTES, COUPONS, DIVIDENDS, and nthrr paper: RECORDS DEEDS, PAYS TAXES for non-residents, SERVES LEGAL PAPERS, and attends to any important business commissions intrusted tu it with care, Jiromptness and at reasonable rates. YS and SELLS all classes of BONDS, executes orders in STOCKS and miscel- laneous SECURITIES. The rates below are made between any of the American Express Company's several thousand offices in New England, Middle and We«tern States, and (exceptint; i% lbs. locts.) to places reached by nearly all connectinff Expresses. RE- D AT*FC F'OR PACKAGES OF CURRENCY OR GOLD COIN nM I bW MITTANCES BETWECN NEARLY e,000 PLACES Reached direct by the American ExpressCompany in the EASTERN, MIDDLE AND WESTERN S'TATES and the CANADAS ; also to offices of nearly all connecting lines. Lowest and Highest Charges, according to Distance Carried. $20 or less 15o. $40 70 $ 80....2eto40o. 100... 26 to46o. 126... 26 to 60o. $160 26to60o. 176 30to76o. 200 80 to 86c. $226....3Cto OOo. 260. .36 to $1.00 300... 36 to 1.26 20o. 26o. 26 to 30o. 13^ Larger buihb in iiiueh smaller proportion. N. B.— MONEY PACKAGES are delivered, as .-iddrr ssed, within the Company's delivery limits of every city and village agency, FREE OF CHARGE. PRINTED MATTER RATES ) , , ,. , - ( J^ Uook5andnthtrmatier,7i./io//viH/r<«<,onlfrul '- 1 1 IhC I lip ■[ J, J, from, or 9<^nt b» manufacturers, uublishers ur L I 2 lUOiy I UUi I tlontf dealers, and prepaid to railroad points only. / V u'ar pi cent for each addl- . twoou cesorfrac- ihereof, unless tnercR- packaKe rale ih leas. MERCHANDISE RATES. Lowest and Inghesc charges, according to distance carried. (lib 26c.* 2 Its., ...26 to 30c. (81ba.,....26to46c. 41ba.,..26 to 60c. 61b8.,..26 to 76c. 71b8., .260. to$1.00 TRANSFER TELEGRAPH RATES. \ 0T.e'. } MK R. R. > PASS THE HOTEL [RECENTLY RENOVATED THROUQHoOT. ELECTRIC '\ liqHt, bells, and all modern improvements, under new management. NOTARY PUBLIC AND CORPORATE SEALS. STENCILS AND RUBBER STAMPS. HOTEL WALDO, LITTLE CHCBEASUE ISLAKB, CASCO BAY, MAINE. -♦•♦- Is situated about six miles from Portland, and is reached by steamers from that city. The island, with its grove.'^ and bathing beach, is the gem of the many beautiful places in the Bay, and is without blemish. The hotel caters especially to family patronage, and is owned by the Waldo Company, incorporated under the laws of Maine, and has lately been reorganized, and the Hotel greatly improved. No picnics or excursions allowed on the island. Bowling alleys, billiard and pool rooms, tennis grounds, bath houses, boats. Cuisine and service unexcelled. Open June 23d. For terms apply to u.., HORACE 8. CROWELL, Fresident, V . ahtnsrton Street, corner of State Street, BOSTON, MASS. Or at the Hotel. 119 FRONTIER STEAMBOAT CO. .-(. r;,.. . i _f, ISaO. SUMMER ARHANOBMBNX. iseo. STEAMER ROSE STANDISH Leaves Calais every morning (Sundays excepted), touching at Robbinston and St. Andrews. Connecting at Eastport with the ** International Steamers " for St. John, Portland, and Boston. Ferry at Eastport for Lubec and Campobello. Stage at Lubec for Machias. Stage at Eastport for Pembroke. Returning, leave Eastport about noon, or on ar- rival of International Steamer, touching at St. Andrews and Robbinston. Connecting at Calais with St. Croix and Penobscot R'y for Princfton and Grand Lake Streams. New Brunswick R'y for Hamilton and Woodstock. Shore Line R'y for St. George. For further information see weekly time cards, or apply to the following Local Agents : JOHN PENDLEBURG, Ao't, L. W. PINE, Ag't, St. Andrews, N. B. Eastport, Me. JAS. L. THOMPSON, Manager, Calais, Me. I I I20 O^A^lSdHeOBELIjO ISXi.A.3SriD. TYN-Y-COED HOTEL. THIS ATTRACTIVE SUMMER RESORT WILL BE OPEN FOR VISITORS JULY I St. TTTHE Hotel, with its annex, is pleasantly sit- uated near the water's edge, on a bluff seventy-five feet above the level of the sea. It is provided with all the comforts of a refined home, and beautifully furnished throughout. ACCESS MAY BE HAD BY THE FINE STEAMERS OF THE INTERNATIONAL LINE, WHICH LEAVE COMMERCIAL WHARF. BOSTON, AT 8.30 A. M.. MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS, AND FRIDAYS, AND PORTLAND THE SAME EVENINGS AT 5.00. ALSO VIA STEAMER OLiVETTE FROM BOSTON TO EASTPORT, VIA BAR HARBOR ON SATUR- DAYS. THE 12.30 AND 1.00 O'CLOCK TRAINS VIA THE BOSTON * MAINE RAILROAD (EASTERN AND West- ern DiVisioNss CONNECT WITH THE STEAMERS AT PORTLAND. BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH TO CAMPOBELLO. Applications for rooms for the season of 1890 may be made to T. A. BARKKR. Care ALEX. S. PORTER, 27 State Street, BOSTON. g I/) X! m\ z in I , iiiit ;i!i 1 laiiH isa # J7M^aifdn^F.Ji^qpFiBto:F. NORTH LUBEC IM MENX MF=»AIMY. COMPOSED QV I'ROMINKNT YOUNG MEN'S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION MI'IN, AND OWNING FIVE HUNDRED ACRES OF LAND, AND KLEVEN HOUSES AND OUT-BUILDINGS AT NORTH LUBEC. MAINE. The Company In nrKanlced for the purpose of developing the New England Young Men's Christian Summer Encampment. A Hotel And Wharf are being built, and a Fleet of Boats have been purchased. LftNt Miu>oii aoo persons attended the Encampment. Seaeon ^i^zx^,^, 3uli? let Cloaca, October lat. Summer £ncampment, Huoust 9tb, * 24tb. erriocna or the companv: JOHN H, APPLITON, 0«mbrldg«, Maii Preddent. 'V, 8, OORIV, l»er(tand, Main*" Becretao. T. T. HAZItWOOD, Haverhill, Mate Treasurer. CAPITAL STOCK, - - $50,000, o.ooo lAFREJ Stock lelllnK at par, $id,oo per share. Special favors giranted to Stockholders. CorreHpund with' offlcers of the Company for further information. EASTPOR T and PASSA MAQUODDY A Collection of Hiltorical and Biographical Sketches, compiled by WILLIAM HENRY KILBY, With notot and additions. Illustrated with numerous cuts of Maps, Church*!, Public Buildings, Residences, etc. il fflO, t SOS pages. Price, $3.;o. puButHKo ■¥ E. E. SHEAD & CO. ■ AST r"C3F« X. IVMAirdK. ' ' ,'i // - ,'■'...-■• ;;'/;' r, . ;/ . . r. - . _, : ... Its ^apadiap pacific; i^ailu/ay THE QRDIT TOURIST ROUTE To all points in Canada and the United States. It is the (wst equipped line in the World. -:- -:- -:- -:- -:- -:- -:- -:- -:- Write for copies of " Summer Tours," " Fishing and Shooting," and other publications. D. McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, Montreal, Canada. c. E. Mcpherson, District Passenger Ag't, 211 Washington St., Boston, Mass. Take the New Brunswick Railway f?P*« ST. JOHN ^«- ST. ANDREWS -Io_- VANCE BORO, HOULTON , FORT FAIR FIELD , CARIBOU, and PRESQUE ISLE, Me., FREDERICTON, WOODSTOCK, FLOR ENCEVILLE, KENT , BATH, KILBURN, PERTH, ANDOVER, GRAND FALLS and EDMUNDSTON, N. B. E\)e Opiy F{oute to tjpe Celebrated pis^'Q^ ^^^ l^^ptii?^ Presorts of l^ortl^drp (T^aipe apd |^eu; BruQsu/ieH. K. W. ORAM, General M'mtgvT, A. J. HBATH. Gtntral Patstftgtr Agtnt. ■An 'ii' "4 \\ ^iNDS0R & Annapolis R'y. THC "LAND or CVANaCLINC" ROUTE. The Favorite Route between Nova Scotia and the United Stalei and Canada. TRAVELLERS and VISITORS to the Maritime Provincea ehould ayal! themsclvci of the special inducements ofTered by this old emnbljuhed and popular route. It it shorter than any other by 86 miles, and is UNRIVALLED in BEAUTY and VARIETY ofSCBNBRY. The railway traverses the fertile and picturesque valleys of the Annapolis and Cornwallis Rivers, the widely famed "GARDEN OP NOVA SCOTIA," and the romantic and cele- brated LAND OP EVANGELINE immortalized in Longfellow's pathetic story. Down the lone street iihe pained with her chaulet »( besdi and her miuali Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirile of blue, and the ear-rln(s, UrouEht in the olden times from Kmnce. • • « w « « " Sunshine of Saint Eulalie " was she called ; for i hat was the sunshine, Which, ai the farmers believed, would load their orchards with apples. • « t • « • This was the forest primeval ; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped lilce the roe. when he he;irs in the woodland the voice uf the huntsman ? Close connection Is made at Annapolis with the International, Yarmouth and Ray of Kundy Steamship Companies to all points in the United States and Canada ; at Middleton with the trains of the Nuvn Scotia Central Railway for the South Coast, and at Windsor Junction and Halifax with Intercolonial and Canadian Pacific trains for all points West. ASK FOR TICKETS Via the WINDSOR & ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY, at Boston & Maine R. K. Oliice at Boston ; at the Maine Central R. R. Offices at Portland, Danville Junction, Bangor, etc. ; on board the "'earners of the International and Bay of Fundy and Yarmouth Steamship Co.'s ; at Reed's .^harf. St. John, N. B. ; at North Street Depot, and at ia6 Hollis Street, Halifax, opposite the Halifax Hotel. Kor further information as to fares, routes, etc., apply to Station Agents of the Company, or to P. aiFKINS, K. SUTHERLAND, W. R. CAMPBELL, Gen'i Pau^r Agttnt, iitsidtnt Manager, Gtn't Managtr and Stc'y, KENTVILLE, N. S. KENTVILLE, N. S. KENTVILLE, N. S. NOVA SCOT IA CENTRA L RAILWAY, Connecting with the Windsor & Annapolis Railway at Middleton and running across the Province to the Atlantic Coast at Bridgewater and Lunenburg. This new railway has an unequalled equipment of coaches, par- ticularly constructed for summer tourists. The country opened up abounds in excellent fisriing and hunting, picturesque scenery all along the line. From Bridge- water is the shortest way to the new gold fields of Caledonia and Molega, the richest in Nova Scotia. R. H. FRASER, Traffic Su^'t. GEORGE W. BEDFORD, R. M. J. McGILL, Gen'l PAssENacn Aqent. Qekeral Manaoer. I-Iead Office at Brldgcawater. "5 Intercolonial Railway OF CANADA. THE POPULAR AND FASHIONABLE ROUTE FOR CANADIAN AND U.IITICD STATES SUMMER TRAVEL. The Intercolonial traverses for two hundred miles the south shore of the maJMtic Saint , Lawrence, thence through the famous lake, mountain, and valley region of the Metapedia and Kestigouche Rivers, unequaled for mag- nificent scenery, and along the beautiful and picturesque shores of the Bale De Chaleur and Gulf of St. Lawrence, abounding in exhaustless salmon and trout streams. MEW AND ELEGANT BDFFET SLEEPING AND DAY GARS. FIRST-CLASS AND SMOKING CARS ON ALL THROUGH TRAINS. THROUGH EXPRESS-TRAIN CARS BRILLIANTLY LIGHTED BY ELECTRICITY. All the popular summer sea-bathing and health-restoring rtserts of Canada are along this line, notable among which are Rivlero ds Loup, Cacouna, Bic, Metis, Campbellton, Dalhousie, Bathurst, St. John, Shediac, and Halifax. ' . 1 Through Express Trains, daily, between Quebec, Halifax, N. S., and St, John, N, M,, and close connections made for Knit) ile Chdleur, Prince Edward Island and Cape Ilrelon polntH, also with Steamer " Ueaver " at I'ictOM for the Magdalen Islands. Close connectionH made Itt Quebec with the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Railways, and at Quebec hdU Klvli^re du Loup with the steamers between Montftai, Quebec, and the far-famed Sagusnay Rlvsr. Illustrated Guide-Books to the Intercolonial Railway, with mnpi*, hotel- lists, etc. , also time-tables, showing rail and steamboat connections, can he had on application to city agents, or of A. BUSBY, D. POTTINGEH, Gen'l Passenger Agent. Chief S^ffrititmiml, MONCTON, N. B. \ T26 TO NOVfA SCOTIA VIA StJOHN. N. B. AND THE Bay of Fundy Steamship Company (UIMITED). ^^n^HE fine Iron Staaraer "City of Monticello" leaves St. John every week- m I H) ^*y except Tuesday at 7.30 A. M., local time, for Digby, there connecting ■*■ with the Western Counties Railway for Yarmouth and points West. From Dlgby the Steamer proceeds to Annapolis, sixteen miles, through one of the most picturesque Rivers in North America, connecting with the Windsor & A nnapolis Railway, which traverses the far-famed " Land of Evangeline " to Halifax and points East. Returning, Steamer leaves Annapolis and Digby on the same days, and is due at St. John from 7.00 to 8.00 P. M. Connection made at St. John with the " All-Rail Line " to Bangor, Port- land and Boston, with the Steamers of the International Steamship Co., to Eastport, Portland md Boston, with Canada Pacific for Montreal, Intercolonial to Moncton, Quebec, etc., the Grand Southern R. R. for St. George and St. Stephen, New Brunswick R. R. to Bangor and points West, and the Ne'v York, Maine, and New Brunswick Steamship Co., which Line will be opened about the ist of June, 1890. HOWARD D. TROOP, .... President and Manager. ST. JOHN, N. B. 127 THE RHINE OF AMERICA. RivBR Saint John. SAINT JOHN AND FREDERICTON. • Fare, One Dollar. SUVLMER ARRANGEIVIENT. Until further notice, one of the splendid Mail Steamers, of this line, will LEAVE INDIANTOWN FOR FREDERICTON, (GIBSON), and intermediate landings, every morning (Sundays excepted), at nine o'clock (local time), and will LEAVE FREDERICTON FOR SAINT JOHN (INDIANTOWN). and intermediate landings, every morning (Sundays excepted), at < ight o'clock (local time), due at Indiantown at 3 P. M. Connections are made with trains of the New Brunswick Railway, For Woodstock, i.roostook, Grand Falls, Edmunston, Etc. northern and Western Railway, For Doaktown, Chatham, Etc., and with Steamer •' Florenceyille," (While water is high) for Eel River, Woodstock, Etc., and Steamers of the International Steamship Co. , For and from Portland, Boston, and other points in the United States and Canada. Through tickets, single and return, issued Co all stations at special reduced rates. Connections made with the horse-car« if " Sv, Tohr. City Railway," which run to and from steamboat landing. Fare oi.iy :>■ • ^13 to any point in St. John or Portland on their route. For further information, see folder with naji of river, to be obtained at offices of the International Steamship Co., at n,,'. oi,d stations, and at hotels. R. B. HUMPHREY, MANAGER. MeaU Office at Union Line Wharf, Indlanto-wti, ST. JOHN, N. B. 12? ietoria Hotel KING STREET, St.John,N.B. D. W. McCORMICK, PROPRIETOR. 1 129 OYAL HOTEL, ST. JOHN, N. B. K.1NG Street, T. F. RAYMOND, Proprietor. I •3° T^jotel *Y^ufferin, St. JOHN, N' B. Ceritrall y Locat ed, Opposite Kin g'^ Sqtaare. ELEQANTLY r*•€ k ■ EST CaUIPPKD HOTCL IN THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. SPECIAL ATTENTION PAID TO THC WANTS OF SUMMER TOURISTS AND COMMRRCIALTRAVCLLCRt. QOOO STABLE IN CONNECTION. TEAMS IN WAITINO AT ALL TRAIN*. LYONS HOTEL, KENTVILLE, N. S. (OIRICTLY OPPOSITE RAILWAY STATION.) EXTKNSIVF, Imnrovdilients hflvlfig just been completed in this house, it now possesses jfl bedroomi, l ladies' and 2 gentlemen's parlors, 6 sample rooms and billiard rooms. These rooms are all furnished in the most modern style, ThU lioime l<» eotldiicted on =FIR8T'CLASS PRINCIPLES,- and it will be foimd, outside of the fjueen or Halifax Hotels, equal, if not super- ior, to any in the l'revlij«e, I, I very stable in connection. E>. ^(loL>BO^>, Proprietor. LUNENBURG & HALIFAX STEAM PACKET CO. LIMITED. The S. S. Electro, C«iit, K, llelslrf. will make two trips each week between Lunenburg and Halifax, viz.: Leave Halifax, Mondays and Thuradays, at 9.00 A. M. Leave Lunen- burg, Tuesday and Friday, laficr arrival of morning tram). On Wednesday steamer will leave Halifax at fi A, M, fof Miilione Hay, calling at Prospect Harbot and Chester on her way up, returning same titty, A» Ilia above steamer connects with S. S. Halifax for Boston, which leaves every WednPsdMy morning, passengers can go onboard at once without extra charge. Tickets for Hotitufl issued at the Lunenburg agency. Quickest and cheapest way to go. Only on< night Hf se«, ^r"Also connects witll NwVH iiotia Central Railroad. Through tickets to HridtfeWHicr and iMahone Bay. Tickets to Bridgewater, $2.00; Mahone Bay, $1.50. Freight (orwttrded to all points on Nova Scotia Central Railway. JAS. R. RUDOLPH, Pftgl^tnt, J. J. UcLACHLAN, Agent, Lunenburg. HENRY LANE, Ay»nt, Mtihons Bay. BLACK BHOS. A CO., Agsnts, Halifax. '37 1 he Ottawa House, CUshirig's Island. Portland Harbor. ^ AS unquestionably one of the finest locations to be found on the Atlantic *^ coast. The island is full of interest and beauty. The New Ottawa House, which was built in the spring of 1888, has accommodations for three hundred guests, and is acknowledged to be one of the finest hotels on tlie coast of Maine, it is situated on elevated ground, commanding magnifi- cent views of the ocean and bay, the neiglriboring islands and city, the shore of Cape Elizabeth, and, in the distance, the lofty peaks of the White Mountains. Preble HoUse, Portlarid, Aairie, Noted for its fine location. Has always been a favorite stopping place for summer tourists. For particulars, address n. S. GIBSOH, or /A. S. GIBSON, Ottawa House, CUSHISG'S ISLAND, Me. PORTLAND, He. Charlottetown Steam Navigation Go. LIMITED. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND VIA. POINT du CHENE AND PICTOU. SUMMER ARRANGEIVIENT, 1890. One of the fine side wheel steamers of this company, will leave Summerside at 8.00 A. M. daily, Sundays e.tcepted, for Point du Cheiie. Returning, will leave Point du Chene on arrival of n^orning train from St. John. Leave Charlottetown at 6.00 A. M. daily, Sundays excepted, for Pictou. Returning, leave Pictou daily on arrival of morning train from Halifax. Passengers for St. John and intermediate points leave Charlottetown at 6.00 A. M. by rail, connecting with steamer at Summerside for Point du Chene, arriving at St. John same evening. KRED W. HALES, Manager, CHARLOTTETOWN. ..[«rs: <3« Grand Central Hotel ••• •7» pmericap piap, t3.60, S3.00 AND •2.60 PER DAY. ^uropear; piap, Si, 00 AND UPWARDS. 667 TO 677 BROADW^AV, NEW YORK. 1 1 .v.-«» FAYMAN &- SP HAGUE, Proprietors. CLIFTON HOUSE } 74 Princess and 143 Germain Sis. ST. JOHN, N. B. CEXTRALLY LOCATED. KINELV FURNISHED. XIODERAXE RAXES. ALEX. N. PETERS, Proprietor. ) VARIETY STORE. (- E. S. MARTIN & SON, "" Stoues, Jir>u/are, J^ardu/a^e, A^ATER HEATER. FANCY INDIAN BASKETS AND HAMMOCKS. CROCKERY, GLASSWARE AND LAMPS. NOW'l'H Al :HUKN. MAINK. The auburn S nT the celebrated Auburn Springs, a modern " house, with accoitimodationu for two hun- dred KUMts, will be opened after lune 14, 1890, under the management of the well- known and popular landlord, E. J Freenian of Boston. The house is provided with steam heat, gas, scientific sanitary appliances, and the famous mineral spring water is used for all purposes. For circulars ^'ivine full in- formation of the house, terms, etc., and medic- inal r *rties of the water, address Auburn Mir prine Co., 156 Devonshire Street, Bo! at the hotel after June 10, 1893. I ON.— This new and commodious hotel .. .ated at the head of the beautiful Lake Auburn. It stands on an elevation 100 feet above the level of the lake, and nearly 900 feet above the level of the sea. A broad piaz.za surrounds the house, which is shaded by large and beautiful old forest trees; (proves of pine and oak are about the grounds. Near the hotel, about fifty rods distant, is the Spring House. A commanding view of the lake and the beautiful and picturesque scenery which surrounds it on all sides may be had from all parts of the house. Good judges say, that to those seeking rest, comfort, health, and pleasure, this will be found one of the most delightful spots on earth. All conven- iencies that are furnished at any hotel for the comfort and enjoyment of guests will be found here. No pains will be spared to make this a home for all. The prices will be from $15.00 to $ao.co per week. Transient rates, $3.00 per day, kJ^For those spending the whole sea- son special prices will be made. Easy of access from Boston and Portland by either Maine Central or Grand Trunk Railroads 10 Auburn. The Auburn Horse Cars connect with each train, taking passen- gers to the boat landing, where they can take our new Steamer Lewiston, which will take them across the lake, landing at the hotel, or carriages can be furnished at short notice. A competent man will be found at the Auburn depot to take charge of baggage and give full directions. A large stable is connected with Boston Office, No. 156 Devonshire St PRING HOTEL. the hotel, where genilemcm'n li iitlilvr the microscope without precipimtimi, li \\m dissolved to pulp in six dnyit CRkull Humti- iently large to take a person « life, Aiihuch Mineral Spring Water will di««olvt^ Impufltlci; and remove them from the vyttiuin, ft Iihh become one of the great meillcinHl ft)lll«rile<< of the age. ONE OF THE MANY TESTIMONIALS. What Dr. Willard Parker of New York City says of Auburn Mineral Sprinn Wrttsf : Upon the purity of water 4e|iflli1)t ll« ^ulv- empower. Auburn Mineral Ispiliiu Watef is of crystal purity and cloarneM, I rei nttt mend its use to dissolve and ahiiiirl) t'ttkiiliin and all impurities of the lliiulil uhHnneJH, Dk, WlMAHl) I'ANkSH. CERTIFIOAU OF ANALYSIS State Assaveh's fin ici: ash {.ahoCAImmVi ( 4 State St., Ilosii'ii, .M.iaii., Jiiiiu |i., m^ij { AiniHN Mineral SihiNi; 10 Qt»li -- \ lutvr analyzed a sample iil waiei iiLtrki;!! " l,l|l«« AiiImiim Mineral SpiiiiK," rectivecl fium liMli Willi llll! fill- towing results : One Inited States tiallon- J:il FUllIt^ lll|i|ie!i^(:UH tains Sulp.hate of Poiasli ,,, , : , , , 9 IIH Cliloridc of Sodiiiin ...,...,,.,,,,,,;,. ^.iSt liicarbonate of Scida .,> n m mimu . n , l.io» liicarl)onate of I.imc ,,,,,.,, ,,,Mii,: 8'43? Kicarbonati; "f Mauneiia , 1 1 ,, , , ,11 , , , , : . d.^tif) (>\ide of lion and .\luiiinis. , , m>: 'nm r n 1 .IKfeK Silica Acid in Sniutiun ,,,,,:, JI ,,;::.. 1:411 Lithiain soluiiun ,, ■i-,,:,Mt, ,,,-.,. Total ,,,,,,,,,,, ,,:,~lhyii4 It is n.'turally aerated or clmiijtul wllll 1 hlliiihli' acid, uxyuen, and nitrOKcii gasaa h |i, nl^^||h;, odorless, tasteless, culi.rless, ii|isrkllll|J, mill frse (roinany appreciable oiniinii iiwuch 1 jiji; |q nli uncoinmorly pure spiiiiij water Respcciliilly, S IiANA HAVlia, Strut Asb.iver iiiiit (- h, luloi, M ereat. Simple m its management, a child fifteen years old can run it. Mine has not cost me a cent >urs since fire was started in it, November, 1888. It cive* me pleasure to show >our system to my GURNEr HOT WATER HEATER CO. Iff V^RK OWWIKS aa JOHN BTREET. 163 FRANKLIN STREET, (Mention this book.) B O 8 1^ O T**! < IPP^ ??^" \ \ ^A ^"^ v 4