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BY ALEXANDER CAULFIELD ANDERSON, Esq., J. P. • •••• #*» Tendimus in Latiuin — Virff. We are all aboard for the West — Str George E. Cartier^t Venion. VICTORIA, B. C. : P»!NTRD ItT RiCHAKD WoLFRNDKK, UoVBKNMENT PRIKTBR. 1872. ^SiiAikv - CONTENTS. PIOI. CiiAPTRn T. — Boundftrles ind Oencral Geoprrnphy 1 CiiAPTKn H. — The Coftst, Viincouvcr Islnnii 5 CiiAi'TKU III — r.pognipliiciil snlxlivinions of the Mainltind — General clmnicterisiics of cacli — Lines of coinmunicnti-in Ac U CuAHTBR IV.— NnturarProductions — Timber-Trees, Ornamen- tal Shrubs, kc n Chaptkk V. — Natural Productions continued — Fish 23 CiiAPTEu V!. — Natural Productions continued — Beasts of the Chiis( — Birds, 4c H5 Chaptkk VII. — Climate, Agriculture, &c 44 Chaptkk VIII. — Terms of Land (Jrants — Roads, Ac. — Proba- ble Line tlirougli the Province of the Canadian Pacific Uailway — Kslimate of Distances compared with other Routes — N.ites on traftic likely to ensue — Advantages of Ksnuimalt as the great Western sea-port of the Dotninioa — (leneral Remarks dl Chaptkk IX.— Political Constitution — Schools — Churches, Ac. — Postal Servirt' — Telegra|)lis — Mechanics' iDstitutes, Ac. — Newspmiers — Biinks — !*()i>ulation — Indians — (ieneral Remarks on tJold-mining — Mineral Riches — Coal-mining, Ac. — (leneral Remarks on the attractior.s of the Province ns a field for settlement 75 Chaptkk X. — Simmm-khkntaky. — Indians and Indian .Missions — State of Society — ('auses ol past retardation of the Province — (ieneral progress on the Pacific Coast, with oxteni and cost of Railways ahead}' existing — Spnrs of British <'oliimltia — Csiial Dimensions of those shipped to various markets- -Sau Juan (Question — KnQ 5)0 A Pl'EN DIX— CONTENTS. A — Xotes regirding Salmon entering Frascr River i B. — Exports from .\lljerni, Barclay Sound, in 1802 i. '-■ . — v.. hie of Kxports of Lumber in 1871, with amount of «lii^pm|{uu^a';L'd it. iv. CONTEIfTS. PAQl. D.— Exports of Coal in 1871 and part of 1872 ii. E, — Exports'of Fura, Oil, &c., in the year 1871 iii. P.— Exports of Gold in the year 1871, and from 1858 to 1871 iv. G. — Statement of Savings Bank v. H. — Rates of Woges current in Moy, 1872 vi. I. — Rates of Postage to British Columbia — Interest of Money — Exchange upon British Columbia^ vi. K. — Meteorological Observations vii. L. — Memorandum of Terms of Union with Canada xii. M. — Provincial Estimates for i872 xv. N. — Estimated Revenue for 1872 xxi. O. — Dominion Appropriations for 1872 xxi. P. — Rates of Postage xxii. Q. — Statement of Yield of Land xxiii. 11. — Extracts relating to the Okinngan District xxiii. R. R. — Estimate of the Quality of Hops of B.C xxv. S. — Invitation of Tenders for the Construction of a Grav- ing Dock at Esquimau xxv. T — Prices of Farm Produce during the past season xxvi. V. — Prices of some articles of Domestic consumption xxvii. W. — llospilals xxviii. X. — Theatre xxvlii. Y. — Gas and Water in Victoria xxviii. Z. — Table of Latitudes and Longitudes xxix. A-2. — Table of Altitudes above the Sea of certain points iu l)i'iti.-b Columbia xxx. B-2. — Notes regarding the Coal-mines at Nanaimo xxxii. C-2. — Notes regarding the Stone-quarry at Nanaimo xxxiii. D-'J. — Table of Approximate Distances between certain ports and Southaniptun xxxv. E.2, — Test of the strength of the Douglas Fir xxxT. F-2.— Note regarding the winter-passage of tho Rocky Mouutaiuij xxxvii. G-2. — List of Works relating to FJritisli Columbia, with re- marks upuu ::omc Tcccnt publications xxxviii. II-2. — Note referring to Beeswax drifted by tbo Sea xlL 1-2- -Note explanatory of progres.^! of thu Salmon zlii. PAQI. it. iii. 1871 iv. V. vi. of vi. vii. xii. • •• • XV. • •• » xxi. • ■ • • XX i. xxii. • '• • xxiii. • • •• xziii. XXT. av- .... XXV. ■ ••• xxvi. xxvii. .... sxviii. xxviii. !•• • xxviii. xxix. its • • • XXX. ... xxxii. ... xxxiii. in ... XXXV. ... XiXT. ;y .. xxxvii. e- ..xxxviii. .. xli. ,.. zlii. CHAPTER I. BOUNDARIES; AND GENERAL GEOORAPnT. British Columbia Fprang into existence, as a Colony, only in 1858, consequently on the gold-discoveries, the rumours of which in that year suddenly attracted numbers to its shores. Previously it had been traversed and partially occupied only by the Fur-traders, first of the North-West, and afterwards of the Hudson's Bay, Companies; by whom its various divisions were distinguished by different names, most of which are still retained for local designation. The adjacent Island of Vancouver, separated from the mainland I by a narrow channel, in its narrowest part scarcely exceeding a few thousand yards, had been partially colonized some years before ; and it might have been reasonably supposed that these twj adjacent and almost contiguous lands, with interests so closely united, would have been incorporated under one Government. But the wisdom of Downing Street willed it otherwise. Established as separate Colonics, each enjoyed for some years the honor of paying 7ts own highly- salaried Governor, under the Imperial auspices; with the dignity of enacting its own special laws, not always in strict observance of the interests of its neighbour. Of course this could not last ; and in 1866 the common-sense of the two Colonies, though reluctantly elicited, brought about a union. Subsequently, on the 20th July, 1871, the united Colony became confederated as a Province of the Dominion of Canada. It is as a sequel to this last-named event, and in view of the rapid advance of the most important interests of the country under its new connexion, that the Provincial Govern- ment has judged it expedient to invite the production of S HOUNhAUlKS, AND GKNKRAI. OEOdllAl'IIY. Buch infbriijntion ns luuy meet the ci)(|uiriu8 of the induBtrioua B(!ttlcr whose views tend hitlierward. It will, then, be the object of the loUdwiiig treatise to present, in a brief and coiiipetidioiis foriu, such geuerul uceuuiit of the country and its resources us may scciu apprupriute to the end in view. The lliuifs of the Province may be thus broadly indicated. Co-teruiiuous uii the South with tlie United States Territory of Washington, the 4l>th Parallel of North Latitude forma the boundary from the Ciulf of Georgia to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, which it intersects in Jjongitudc 114° West, there touching on the Dominion territory of the North- West. Thence along the summit of the Rocky Mountains to the parallel of Mount St. Klias, in about Latitude G2°. Thence Southward as far as .')4° 4(1', along (lie strip of coast-line, ten marine leagues in width, formerly occupied by Russia, re- cently purchased by the United States, and now forming part of the Territory of Alaska. Thence Southward to the entrance of the Strait of Fuca, including Queen Charlotte and Vancouver Island, and the vast archipelago connected therewith. The three principal streams of British Columbia are, the Columbia, the Eraser, and the Peace. The last-mentioned, rising in the angle formed by the Peak Range with the Rocky Mountains and the Coast Range, after receiving the important gold-bearing tributary, Findlay's Branch, breaks through the main line of the Rocky Mountains, and, passing onwards, joins the great River Mackenzie : the united flood, after a course of some two thousand miles, eventually falling into the Frozen Ocean. The Columbia, rising in the Rocky ]Mountains, pursues a Southerly course, and, after receiving several important tributaries, and feeding the two extensive sheets of water called the Arrow Lakes, enters the United States Territory in Latitude 49° ; and after a course of nearly a thousand miles, falls into the Pacific in Latitude 40'" 20'. BOUNDARIES, ANP GENERAL OEOdUAPIIY. pursues a Frasor River, comparatively the smallest, but in its rela- tion to the Province by far the most important, flows entirely through British Columbia, entering the Gulf of Georgia a few miles North of the Boundary Line of 40", and in about 122° 40' West Longitude; its course throughout being nearly parallel with that of the Columbia. The main, or central, branch takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains in Lat. 53° 45" N., Long. 118 W., there heading with the Bivi6rti de Miettc. a tributary of the Athabasca, which after- wards unites with Peace River in its course towards tho Frozen Ocean, Fraser River was first discovered by Sir Alexander Mackenzie of the North-West Company, who, designating . it as the Td- tout -the Tessc, or River of the TilcuUy nation, descended it for some distance on his way to the Western Coast in 1793. Afterwards, in 1808, it was navigated to its mouth by Mr. Simon Fraser and Mr. John Stuart of tho North- West Company; from the former of whom it has its present name. Fraser River, a iew miles from its source, flows into a lake some miles in length called Cow-dung Lake, below which, considerably increased by a tributary from the north, it enters Moose Lake, a beautiful sheet of water some nine miles in length. Theuce the river continues rapidly to TCte Jauue's Cache, being joined midway by a second feeder, likewise from the North. Tete Jaune's Cache,* distant about 70 miles from the summit of the Rocky 3Iouutuius and 730 from the sea, is the limit of canoe navigation on the Fraser. About three miles lower down, the stream is joined by the Cranberry Fork, a tributary flowing from the South, which heads in with the North Branch of the Thompson, to be presently noticed, and the Canoe Fork of the Columbia. Between Tete Jaune's Cache and Thle-et-leh, whore there is a post of the Hudson's Bay Company called Fort George, * Named after an Iroquois trapper (ittachcd to the North-West Company, who formerly frequented ibis neighbourhood — called the Tete Jauue I'lum the liKhluibs ul' iiia buir. % II0UNI)ARIE8, AND GENERAL QEOORAPnY. the river is augmented by many tributaries ; two of which, the Mackenzie Fork and Bear River, are of considerable magnitude. This point is in Lat. 63° 53', Long. 122® 45'. An important branch here falls in from the Westward, pro-, uccding from the Lakes of Stuart and Eraser. Quesnel's llivcr, issuing from the great lake of the same name, flows in 100 miles lower down ; and 40 miles below this is Fort Alexandria, seated on the right bank in Lat. 52° 33' 40". It is in the mountainous region comprised within the great bend which the Fraser makes between TSte Jaune's Cache and this point, that the rich gold-deposits, known as the Caribou mines, arc situated. At L}tton, about 180 miles from the sea, the Fraser is joined by Thompson's River,* a copious* tributary flow- ing from the Eastward, This stream waters aa important and extensive section of the country ; its northern branch heading with the Cranberry Fork, before mentioned. Yale, a small town at the head of steam-boat navigation on the Lower Frasier, is 57 miles lower down; and New Westminster, the former capital of the mainland, some 95 miles below it. This last-named town, pleasantly situated on the northern bank of the river, some fifteen miles above the entrance, and in Lat. 49° 12' 47", Long. 122° 63', is, prac- tically, the head of ship-navigation on the Fraser. For brevity's sake the names of the various extensive feeders, falling in at intervals from For^ George downwards, are omitted. Of these the Chil-cOh, watering the fertile tract occupied by the Chilcotins, and entering on the right about 60 miles below Alexandria, is one of the most conspicuous. The Harrison, joining also from the right, is another. This stream flows by a short course from a picturesque and exten- sive lake ; and was at one time the chief route of communi- cation with the upper country; its continuation again striking * Named after the late David Thompson, Esquire, formerly As- tronomer to the North-west Company. THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, AC. the Frascr some 40 miles above Lytton, at the 'beautiful village of Lillooctt. In order to a due apprehension of the geography of British Columbia it is necessary to indicate the ranges of niuunlains which divide its several portions. The more Southerly part is separated from the Columbia watershed by the Cascade Range, so called from the rapids of the Cascades upon the Lower Columbia; the point where that river bursts through the chain. This range may be con- sidered as a continuation of the Sierra Nevada of California, tnd it vanishes at the junction of Thompson's River with the Fraser.* The Coast Range (i. e. the chain of mountains lying be- tween the interior of the Province and the sea-board) com mcnces above New Westminster, and extends, parallel Wi.,ii the coast, a^ xar as ^' • at St. Elias at the northern extremity. -♦— CHAPTER II. The Coast, Vancouver Island, ac. H&ving traced the main artery of the Province from its origin to the sea, we may now proceed to notice the Coast region, with its insular appendagcS; and chiefly the important island of Vancouver. A reference to the map will show that the North-West *The designation "Cascade Range" lias been applied by the Officers of the Royal Engineers, and some others, to the whole Bystem of mountains in British Columbia except the Rocliy Moun- tains. The writer thinks, however, that on reconsideration these gentlemen will agree with him in the classification h>; has always advocated, not only as calculated to avoid confusion, but as being geographically accurate. 6 THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, AC. Coast, from San Francisco upwards as far as the Strait of Fuca, presents a li 'e remarkably free from indentation. Thence northward, however, the coast is broken up into a perfect maze of inlets, forming in their ramifications count- less islands of greater or less extent. The minute explora- tion of this extraordinary archipelago by Vancouver, in the years 1791-93, has given us maps the accuracy of which under the circumstances haa excited the admiration of suc- ceeding navigators. Outside of the archipelago lie two principal islands, Vancouver and Queen Charlotte, divided from each other by a broad sound, and extending from the Strait of Fuca on the South to the frontier of Alaska on the Xorth. The southern island, named by the explorer Quadra and Vancouver's Island, after the Spanish Commander then on the station and himself, formed originally, with its depen- dencies, the Colony of Vancouver Island. It extends in a north-western direction from Lat. 48° 20' to Lat. 51°, in length nearly 250 geographical miles ; its greatest breadth, opposite to Nootka, being about seventy. Victoria, the seat of Government and Capital of the Province, is situated near the south-eastern extremity of the island, where the adjoin- ing Strait of Fuca is about seventeen miles in breadth. This strait, extending into the United States territory by the inlet terminating in Puget Sound on the south, expands northward into the Gulf of Georgia, which extends to Lat. 50°. This portion of the dividing channel in no part exceeds 20 miles in width; contracting afterwards into Johnstone's Strait, which, at the narrowest part, does not exceed two miles. Before recurring to the consideration of the mainland of British Columbia, or entering on the topics which apply equally to both divisions, it may be well to note some par- ticulars respecting the older portion of the Province. Victo- ria, its capital town and chief sea-port, above casually alluded to, is in Lat. 48° 25' 20" N., Long. 128° 22' 24" W., distant about 70 miles, or six hours' steamer travel, from New Westminster on the Fraser ; three hours from Port Towns- THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, &C. le Strait of ndentation. Q up into a ions oount- te explora- iver, in the 7 of which bion of suc- jo lie two te, divided J from the ska on the er Quadra mder then I its depen- extends in at. 51°, in t breadth, a, the seat lated near he adjoin- dth. This the inlet orthward This 20 miles Strait, es. land of apply )nie par- Victo- alluded distant m New Towns- 3h end, the Port of Entry for Puget Sound in Washington Territory; and about 750 geographical miles, or from three to four days' voyage of steamer, from San Francisco in Cal- ifornia. The position of this rising city, both as a distrib- uting point for the Province at large, and as a nucleus for foreign trade, is thus extremely favorable : and the fact of its being the first available sea-port north of San Francisco confers on it additional importance. The town itself is seated on the narrow inlet of Camosae, which, completely land- locked, gives accommodation to all vessels whose draught of water does not exceed eighteen feet. Larger vessels discharge at Esquimalt, three miles distant; an extensive harbour capable of receiving vessels of the largest class, and destined, apparently, to be, in connexion with the projected Railway across the Continent, the future entrepot of a national com- merce, the extent of which it is not easy to foresee. E.squi- malt is the station of Her Majesty's ships on this portion of the Coast. Here are the naval yard, the hospital, and other necessary appendages for the requirements of the squadron. A graving dock is in contemplatiou, capable of admitting ships of the largest class, tenders for the construction of which have been invited by the Provincial Government: and every thing indicates improvement of a permanent and sub- stantial character. An excellent macadamized road connects the two harbours. The situation of Victoria is very beautiful, and the town boasts of some good streets, with tine drives, over excellent roads, in various directions. Adjoining the town a large extent of ground has fortunately been reserved for a public park. This picturesque locality, known as Beacon Hill, bor- ders on the Straits ; and on the opposite shore tower in grand outline the snow-clad summits of the Olympian Range. Here is the public race course;, and here the cricket-matches are played ; when the fleet against the towns-nieu, or the married men against the single, compete for honors. On the outskirts of the town are many attractive resiJoucos : and 8 THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, 40. every cottage displays its pretty garden, cultivated frequently with no small degree of horticultural taste. Though Victoria can so far boast of no edifice of high architectural pretension, there are nany neat and substantially-constructed buildings. Among these, though in rather florid taste, may be men- tioned the Provincial Offices on James' Bay. We may also mention the Presbyterian, Wesleyan, and Roman Catholic Churches ; the iron church of St. John, a donation to the Episcopalian congregation of the Province from that excellent lady, the Baroness Coutts; the Angela College for young ladies, likewise originating in the leneficence of the same lady; the St. Anne's Convent, and Orphan School; the large hall occupied by the Mechanics' Institute ; the Bank of British North America; the St. Nicholas Hotel; the Alhambra ; and the fine hotel recently completed, called the Driard House. Various public buildings, to be built by the Dominion Government, will shortly be erected; and the Episcopalian Cathedral of Christ Church, occupying the con- spicuous site of the former building destroyed by fire, is in progress. Some of these projected buildings, it is to be pre- sumed, will be of a higher order of architecture than the majority of those hitherto constructed. About seventy miles from Victoria, on the eastern, or inner, shore of the island, is Nanaimo, a small town of local importance, originally established in connexion with the coal- mines wrought in that vicinity, and around which other in- terests have sprung up. Among these may be mentioned the quarrying and exportation of stone for architectural purposes. There is a deficiency of good stone along the coast, until this vicinity is reached : consequently the United States Govern- ment, when recently about to construct a Mint in San Fran- cisco, contracted to get the material from Newcastle Inland, near Nanaimo. This contract, the stone having been hewn before shipment, is now nearly completed, and will probably be followed by others of a similar description. Nanaimo is a thriving little town, and, having substantial resources of THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, &C. 9 Bd frequently )ugh Victoria al pretension, ed buildings, aay be men- We may also lan Oatholio lation to the bat excellent e for young of the same School; the i; the Bank Hotel; the d, called the built by the i; and the ing the con- )y fire, is in is to be pre- e than the eastern, or wn of local h the coal- other in- tioned the purposes. until this es Govern- San Fran- le Inland, )een hewn probably anaimo is ources of a permanent character, will doubtless continue to flourish. Comox, some forty miles higher up on the same shore, is an agricultural settlement, prosperous and contented. It is situated at the mouth of a stream of the same name,* and possesses a very productive soil. There are said to be great indications of coal here, and elsewhere in the vicinity. Cowitchan, situated between Nanaimo and Victoria, upon a river of the same name, is a flourishing agricultural settle- ment. In the same district are Chemuinis, and Salt-spring (or Admiralty) Island, also agricultural and pastoral in their character. Victoria District occupies the peninsula, at the base of which is the town of Victoria. It embraces many fine and valuable farms, and includes the settlements of Lake and Saanich. The latter, especially, forming the extremity of the peninsula, is a fertile and beautiful tract. Passing Esquimalt westward, along the Strait of Fuca, are the settlements of Metchosin and Sookc, of an agricultural and pastoral character. Near Sookc are gold-diggings, which, though not excitingly attractive, give earnest of something better, and meanwhile yield a moderate income to the few who occupy themselves in the quest. Upon the Outer or Western Coast there are at present no agricultural settlements; the business prosecuted there being only the traflic with the natives for oil and furs. In Alberni Inlet, Barclay Sound, are extensive saw-mills, erected at large outlay by an English firm ; but they are not at present in operation. At the northern end are the Saw-quash coal- mines ; but they are only partially wrought for the casual supply of passing steamers, and cannot, it is to I e presumed, be brought into competition with those in the more accessi- ble position of Nanaimo. Fort Rupert, a post of the Hud- son's Bay Company, is in this neighbourhood. It is not, however, the intention to enter into minute local particulars ; but rather to indicate broadly the general fea- tures of the country, and afterwards to refer to special poiuts * Sometimes called tbe Cuurtenay Uiver. 10 THE COAST, VANCOUVER ISLAND, AC. when necessary. While tlie const-line of Vancouver Island is well known, the interior has been very partially explored. A mountainous ridpe appears to traverse it lengthwise, in which are certain depressions occupied by extensive lakes ; and it is probable that much agricultural and pastoral coun- try remains yet to be developed. So far the portions that have been tak'in up along the inner sea-board are found to be extremely fertile and easily brought into cultivation. Little necessity for clearing, save partially in spots, has yet existed ; but, the more open grounds being first occupied, the use of the axo will become constantly more necessary in this division of the Province Within the limits of the mountains rich mineral deposits are known to exist. Coal is found in several po-itions, and timber of the finest quality occupies the forest tracts. Kut on these and other points more will be said hereafter. Queen Charlotte's Island, considerably .sin.iUer than Van- couver Island, is generally of a mountaitiuus (.liaracter, its shores presenting, however, spots well adajttod i'or the culti- vation of the potato and other vegetables. But it is as a mineral resjion that this island has chiefly to be considered ; and as such it will, it is believed, eventually prove extremely valuable. Gold-bearing quartz of very rich (juality was ex- tracted at a point called Mitchell's Harbour, as far back as 1852 ; but for various reasons the quest of this metal has never been vigorously prosecuted in this locality. Copper and other ores exist; and a fine vein of anthracite coal, said to be of a superior quality, has been partially wrought, but the working is at present suspended. Want of capital is alleged to be the cause why this last enterprise has not been prosecuted to a more successful issue. Fort Simpson, a post belonging to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, is situated near the entrance of Observatory Inlet, close by the southern frontier of Alaska. Methlakathla,a mission- ary settlement under the supervision of the lleverend Mr. Duncan of the Church Missionary Society, is situated some QEOORAPIIICAL SUBDIVISIONS OF MAINLAND. 11 Duver Island illy explored, mgthwise, in jDsive lakes ; astoral coun- portions that irc found to cultivation, pots, has yet St occupied, necessary in imits of the jjst. Coal is inest quality other points M* than Van- liaractor, its or the culti- int it is as a eousidercd ; extrcuiely 'ity was ex- ar back as metal has Copper e coal, said ought, but capital is IS not been TJay Com- nlet, close a niission- creud Mr. ated some 30 miles to the soi'.thward of it, at a point known formerly to navigators as Pearl Harbour. Near this, at the entrance of the Skeenu 1. ,er is Port Essington, in Lat. 54° 15'; a newly established settlement, to which further allusion will be made, with reference to the recent gold-discoveries on Peace River. A cursory reference to the map will show the almost num- berless islands of all dimensions which compose the remain- der of this extraordinary archipelago, and of which no special mention can of course be attempted. Many share, doubtless, to a greater or less extent the attributes of their larger out- lying neighbours : and all participate in the facilities for securing the teeming products by which, as will be seen, the maritime waters of the Province are notably distinguished. CHAPTER III. GEOGRAPIIICAIi SuimiVISIONS OF THE MAINLAND. — GEN- ERAL Characteristics of each. — Lines of Communi- cation, &c. The mainland of British Columbia, apart from the sea- board, may be divided into three sections, each differing from the other in its attributes. The first extends from the mouth of Fraser River io the head of the Kapids above Yale : the second, from t t point to Alexandra : the third, thence to the Rocky Mo- . as. The characteristics of the lower district are a surface thickly wooded in most parts with trees of enormous growth, chiefly varieties of the Fir and Pine, and intermixed with the Red Cedar {Thii/it Orcidentalh of Douglas, Ctojaufea of Nuttall) and the Maple-plane (PlotanvH A^'erlJ'oHa). Low alluvial points frihgc these thickets. These, as well as the 12 aEOdRAlMirCAL SUnDIVISIONS OF MAINLAND. numerous islets along the river, are covered with Aspens, Balsam Poplars, and Alders, of luxuriant growth. In the lower part are some extensive meadows, yielding, in their natural state, heavy crops of a coarse but nutritious grass, and, under cultivation, enormous returns of cereals and other produce. For a certain period of the year mosquitoes are troublesome along the river, as high, nearly, as Hope : but there has never been manifested any symptom of fever and ague, or other similar endemic, so often generated in posi- tions of a like description. On the verge of the second, or central, division a marked change commences. The copious rains which fall in the lower district are greatly modified after we pass the moun- tainous ridge through which the river bursts near Yale. Evidences of a drier climate appear at every step. The character of the vegetation changes. About J.ytton the Cactus begins to appear. In spots along the Thompson the Artemisia, and other shrubs indicative of a dry and hot cli- mate, are found : and iu lieu of the thickly-wooded luxuri- ance of the lower region, a succession of open valleys, cover- ed with fine pasture and bordered by grassy hills in parts more or less wooded, delights the eye of the traveller. Here and there belts of forest intervene ; amid which broad ex- panses of open land lie scattered at intervals. This general description may be regarded as applying to a very large tract of country, extending from Alexandria on the Fraser, in Latitude 52° 33', to the Southern Boundary Line on the Okinagan River : and thence at intervals towards the south- eastern angle of the Province. Near the point just men- tioned, whfire the Boundary Line intersects the Okinagan River flowing in*o the Columbia, the country begins to as- sume, in its general features, a very sterile character. An arid sandy region, almost tropical in its temperature, replaces the rich scenery throuji;h which we have been passing. Cros- sing the frontier into the United States Territory, as we descend the Okinagan towards the Columbia, this character QEOORAPniCAL SUBDIVISIONS OF MAINLAND. 13 d with Aspens, rowth. In the elding, in their mtritious grass, jreals and other mosquitoes are , as Hope : but i of fever and crated in posi- ision a marked ch fall in the ass the moun- sts near Yale, ry step. The t lytton the Thompson the y and hot cli- ooded luxuri- t'alleys, cover- liills in parts veller. Here • ch broad ex- This general ■ry large tract Fraser, in line on the is the south- t just men- te Okinagan egina to as- racter. An ure, replaces 5sing. Cros- tory, as we is character becomes more general. The alluvial bottoms alone, where there is natural irrigation, are susceptible oi culture : the main feature of the prospect is a torrid waste of sand, in which the Wormwood and other varieties of the Artemisia, the Cactus, and oth m veg tat"o i j ;opcr to hiuiilar wastes of remote volcanic and diluvial origin, alone find nutriment. We have entereci, in short, upon the North-western angle of the Great American Desert: and hence, within the Nevada range, to beyond the frontiers o'" M xico, these vast " Sage Barrens " lie extended before tlio traveller.* Let us recede, however, from this uninviting field, and confine our view within the more attractive limits of our own favored Province. The third division of British Columbia, from Alexandria to the Mountains, varies materially from the other two. The agricultural region, properly so called, may be said to termi- nate in the vicinity of Alexandria; though there are many small spots beyond that joint which may 1)C advantageously cultivated for culinary vegetables and tl;c harder cereals. Generally speaking it is a wooded country, through which many open spots of excellent soil are interspersed, witJi largo tracts of luxuriant pasture — especially in the direction of Fraser and Stuart Lakes, and in the Chilcotin country. From Fort George, however, up the main branch of the Fraser to Tete Jaune's Cache, none of these open places appear : and though many cultivable patches along the river banks might in parts be readily cleared, it is probable that the oecurrence of summer night-frosts would prevent the growth of any save the hardier vegetables. Fraser Lake, however, and the neighbouring lake of Stuart, have been for many years the scene ofagricultur.il operations on a small scale, at the Posts, formerly of the North-West, and since the coalition of 1(S21, of * The prevnlf.iico of tho scontcil Artumi.si.'i ("Siifrc" of tlio American tra|)pcr.s) upon tlio iSoutlicni Hrancli of tlio Columhia River, led tlio earlv Sp-anish colonists of Ciilifur ii;i to cmII it ilio Rio del Orcgnno, or River of the Miiij.iram : licmc ilif> origin of the term Orrgnn since applied to tlio wlKilo torriiorv. 14 GEOURAIMUCAL HLBDI VISIONS OF iMAlNLAND. •I the Hudson's Bay Company. At the former place, especially, these limited opcrutious wore invariably successful. Pota- toes, turnips, and other vegetables throve wonderfully. Barley yielded invariably a heavy return ; and though wheat was cultivated occasionally only, on a very small scale, and rather experimentally than as a crop, it ripened well in favor- able positions. The pasture in these vicinities is of the most luxuriant description, consisting of fine natural grasses inter- mixed with a nutritious kind of wild pea, or vetch. Cattle and horses of course thrive well ; but the necessity of pro- viding fodder against the lengthened winter of these elevated parts, discourages their being raised bejond a limited extent. This upper region, however, is to be considered more especially as the rtmi'mt) distrivt : and any partial cultivation that may be attempted io meet an extended market in con- nexion with the mines, must be regarded only as subsidiary to the main supply, derived from a remoter source. ! ] We have deferred to notice the Lakes which are dispersed througliout the interior of the Province, and which con- stitute one of its most charming characteristics — for British Columbia is emphatically a Land of Lakes. It would be a vain attempt to describe the beauties of many of these superb sheets of water : and impo.ssible to enumerate even a tithe of their number. In the aggregate there are many hundreds, varying in dimeu.sious from seventy miles and upwards in length, by four or five miles in breadth, to the mere mountain tarn of a few acres in extent. Abounding with fish, the water of these lakes is generally very pure. lu some, however, where the outfall is deficient, there is an alka- line taint, arising from the presence of the sulphate and other combinations of soda. Of this condition Green Lake, situated between Alexandria and Thompson's River, is a notable ex- ample. About thirty miles in length, with a beautiful grassy shore, it has no outlet save veiy partially by underground drainage in the direction of the Bonaparte, a tributary of the «E(»G11APIIICAL SUBDIVISIONS OF MAINLAND. 15 ace, especially, jessful. Pota- wonderfully. though wheat luall scale, and i well in favor- I is of the most 1 grasses inter- vetch. Cattle jcessity of pro- these elevated limited extent, isidered more tial cultivation Qarket in con- ' as subsidiary urce. 1 are dispersed d which con- i — for British [t would be a any of these luerate even a ere are many ty miles and aJth, to the Abounding ery pure. In re is an alka- ate and other ake, situated a notable ex- lutlful grassy underground butary of the Thompson. It is conseciueutly very strongly ik..,)r»'gnated with the accuuiulated salt; its colour being at the .same tiiuo a fine sea-greeu.* 01 the prineipal Lakes the following may be mentioned. On tributaries ultho FniHcr: Stuart's Lake and Lake I'atla, Frasor's Luke, Lac dos Franyais, Bear Lake, Quesucl anald\ derived tVoiii deeiinij)o-'iii(| trachvte in tbo soil,' 16 OEOORAPHICAL SUBDIVISIONS OF MAINLAND. These pack-trails — for they were nothing more — ^have since been improved, where ncce snry, so aa to admit of the passage of wheeled vehicles along the principal lines. In some parts long tracts required no improvement and were at once "avail- able for all the purposes of transport : and such natural roads, with interruptions more or less frequent in parts, radiate throughout the valleys, affording ready communication be- tween various points with pack-animals, and improvablu with moderate outlay of labour into roads of a higher description. The artificial improvements which have become necessary since the colonization of the Coimtry, in order to give access from the Lower District to the interior, are of the most im- posing character ; and have involved an outlay which, at the outset, bore hardly upon the resources of the Colony. The first road opened with this view, commenced in 1858, and for some years aflfording the only available route of access, was from Douglas, at the head of steam-boat navigation on Harri- son Lake, round by the Lakes Anderson and Seton, to Lillooett on the Fraser, some 40 miles above Lytton at the Forks of Thompson's Kiver. This road, however, though all-important for the time, and destined probably yet to become of renewed expediency, was after a while superseded by that which is now the main channel of communication. Commencing at Yale, the head of steam-boat navigation on the Lower Fraser, this last -mentioned road is continued clear up to Barkerville, in the heart of the Caribou mining-region. The lower portion, crossing the Fraser at Kequeloose 13 miles above Yale by a suspension bridge, is conducted along the river through a most difficult country to Lytton. Enormous engineering difficulties have been overcome in this great work, completed under the supervision of the ITonoi-able Joseph W. Trutch, the present Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. A second bridge, upon piles, crosses the Thompson some distance above Lytton, after which the difficulties were of minor importance. A third route, crossing directly over the Cascade Eange in an Easterly direction to the beautiful valley of the Similkameen NATUBAL PB0DU0TX0N8— TIMBKB, TBUS, fto. 17 re — have since t of the passage In some parts ! at once 'avail- b natural roads, I parts, radiate munication be- mprovablu with sr description. !come necessary * to give access ■ the most im- ly which, at the ! Colony. The n 1858, and for e of access, was ;ation on Harri- 'ton, to Lillooett t the Forks of rh all-important ome of renewed at which is now encing at Yale, ver Fraser, this Barkerville, in lower portion, bovfi Yale by a through a most ring difficulties ted under the tch, the present id bridge, upon Lytton, after cade Eange in le Similkameen on the Colambia watershed, leaves the Fraser twelve mile* below Yale, at the pleasant village of Hope. This, though not opened of breadth sufficient for wheeled-vehicles, is valuable aa a short route of transport with pack-animals, in the direc- tion of Okindgan and the Kootanais mines. Since the discovery, two years ago, of the gold-diggings on the heads of Peace River, called now the " Omineca " mines, another route has been opened from the northern coast. Leav- ing the village at Port Essington, to which I have before passingly alluded, the Skeen^ River is ascended by canoe to the Bear-river Fork ; thence by land-carriage and water by way of the Babine Lake and over a depression in the inter- vening Coast Range to Lake Tat-ltl on the Stuart Branch of the Upper Fraser ; and thence across the ridge of the Peak Range to the head waters of the Findlay Branch of Peace River, where the gold-deposits are in process of development. This route has the advantage of shortness of land-transport, over the route to the same point by the way of Yale : but each appears to have its advocates, and the balance of their relative merits seems to be yet undecided. Leaving, however, the subject of internal communication to be reverted to here- after, we proceed to notice some of the natural productions of the Province. CHAPTER IV. Natural Productions — Timber, Trees, Ornamental Shrubs, &c. The forests of British Columbia are productive of an inex- haustible supply of timber of the most serviceable kind. Con- fining the description to very narrow limits the following varieties may be menti(»ied : — It NATURAL PRODVOTIONB — TIMBIB, TRIVS, &0. "I The Oak, which is not found on the mainland,* growi abundantly on the southern parts of Vancouver Island, and the islands adjacent. It is of the variety Q. Oarryana ; and, though nowise equal to the British Oak, affords a very tough and serviceable timber. The Douglas Pine or Fir (-4. Doufflasii). The uses of thi« tree, which grows to a gigantic size, are chiefly for the manu- facture of deals and scantling for building piirposes, and also, locally, for ship-building. It is peculiarly well adapted for masts and spars, from its size, straightness, and tenacity. There is a large and constantly increasing exportation of this timber, Irom British Columbia, and the adjacent shores of Washington Territory, in the shape of sawn lumber and spara to various Ports in China and the Pacific, and in spars and masts of the largest dimensions to Europe. The quality of the lumber procured in British Columbia, at BuxTard's Inlet, a little north of the entrance of Fraser River, is esteemed of superior quality, and commands, we believe, an extra price in San Francisco. The Weymouth Pine (P. StrohusJ— the White Pine of commerce. This valuable tree is common on the mountain- slopes between the Coast and the I^ower Fraser, It is es- pecially abundant in the upper part of Harrison's River, where it attains to a large size and is of unsurpassable beauty. The Balsam Pine, yielding the *' Canada Balsam " of the druggist : a tree of vigorous growth and very ornamental, but the timber of little value. The Hemlock Fir (A. Caaadenzis). Common throughout the Lower District and along the Coast. The bark valuable for tanning ; the wood valueless for outside purposes, but used sometimes for indoor finishing as a substitute for better wood. * This remark, as a rule, is strictly correct ; but like all rules has its exception. A few oaks of small size may be discovered — or might have been discovered 20 years back — on the eastern bank of the Rapids above Yale. They did not probably exceed a dozen in number ; and, unless they may have been considerately spared for their rarity, it ii questionable whether any now remain. MATUBAL PRODUOnONS— TIMBIB, TRBIB, fto. 19 The Sprooe Fir. Found ia most localities throughout the Prorinoe, up to the limits of the Rocky Mountains. An easily wrought and useflil wood. (^A. Menziem.') Pinut Banktianay a variety of the common Scotch ( ir, is found in dry sandy woodlands throughout the interior of British Columbia, and up to the summit of the Rocky Moun- tain passes. A useful and durable wood. Found also on Vancouver Island ; but more rarely, and of smaller siz"". The Red Cedar (Thuja Occidentalis, or GujanUa). A mobt useful tree, found throughout the Province, up to the heart of the Rocky Mountains, but especially abundant on the Sea-board and in the Lower District, where it attains to an enormous size. The wood of this tree is especially valued for it8 extreme durability ; '\i for this reason is now in demand in San Francisco for the purposes of the Southern Pacific Rail- ro&J, '1)r ties. Of this wood the natives make their beautiful canoes ; the broad sheets of the bark they use frequently for roofing ; and its fibres are woven into blankets. j'he Cypress, or Yellow Cedar (Cvpressus TTiyoides), con- fined to the maritime precincts. The wood, of close texture and applicable to many useful purposes, is of very superior quality. The tree is not, probably, found south of 49", and extends along the Coast into Aluska. The inner bark of this tree con- tains an essential oil, which communicates its odor, romewhat as of garlic, to the wood, the efiect of which is to protect it, it is said, against the attacks of the Teredo. This quality of re- sistance, added to great durability, adapts it specially for sub- marine purposes, for which, imported from Alaska, it is now I believe highly valued in San Francisco. The cortical fibres, like those of the last-mentioned, are spun, and woven into blankets, but of a finer texture. A variety of Yew ( T. hrevifrUa) is found along the Coast, and on the Fraser as high as the head of the Yale Rapids. It is used by the natives for the manufacture of bows, and it is applicable to various useful purposes, but does not attain to the size of the English Yew. The Alder, useful for turning a ^ NATVBAL PBODVOTIONB— er Lake Branch, turning off short of that lake, and continuing ita course up the large tributary there falling in, called the Nejil-c6h, on which its spawning grounds are situated. The Td-lo, its van-guard reaching Thle-et-leh in company with the rear-guard of the Kase, do not enter the Tete Jaune Branch, but continue undeviatingly up to the Forks of Ghinlao before mentioned, where a separation takes place. One detachment, continuing up the Stuart's Branch, passes through Stuart's Lake on its way towards Lake Tat-I& : the other following up the other branch does not, like the Kase^ enter the NejA-c6h, but passing on to Eraser Lake, continues through it, and pursues its route by the tributary stream I towards the Lao des Frangais, on the inner verge of the I Coast Range, and opposite to the Southern heads of the Skeenft. This process, actuated by an infallible instinct, goes on ; undeviatingly from year to year : and though at times there I may occur, from inscrutable causes, a partial failure of the supply, the periods vary but little, and the regularity of the system is never interrupted. 28 NATURAL PaODUOTIONS — nSB. Id the Appendix will be inserted a brief notice of several other varieties of the Salmon resorting to Fraser River, some of which, diverging up the Thompson's Branch and other tributaries, do not ascend to the Upper Fraser : and I will now advert to a peculiarity in their fate, which, strange as it may appear, distioguishes the majority from nil other known varieties of the genus. There seems to be no ques< tion that the shoals resorting to the smaller streams debouch- ing upon the Coast return, after performing their procreative functions, to the sea, as elsewhere. Indeed I am disposed to think that those varieties which resort to the smaller tri- butaries of the Lower Fraser and the Columbia, probably fulfil their course in like manner. But as regards the main body, resorting to the distant head-waters of those great rivers, it may be incontestably asserted that they never return to the sea. At first incredulous of this asserted fact, subver- sive of all my preconceptions on the subject, it was only after the observation of years, under circumstances which seem to preclude the possibility of error, that I was constrained to arrive at the same conclusion. Without prolonging my notes by entering on the particulars of these observations, I may confidently repeat the assertion that, the function of spawn- ing over, the fish, still struggling upwards, die of exhaustion. Upon the main, or Eastern, branch of the Fraser, which as I have said is frequented only by the large variety or Kase, the strongest of those fish attain as high as T6te Jaune's Cache, between 700 and 800 miles from the sea: there their further progress is arrested by a steep fall. At the foot of this fall, and elsewhere below, the stream swarms, in Sep- tember, with dead and dying fish. The once brilliant Sal- mon, no longer recognisable save from its general form, may here be seen, the function of spawning completed, almost torpid from exhaustion j its nose in luany instances worn to the bone, it?! tail and fins in tatters, nay its very flesh in a state of haH-iiuaiiilcd decay, either belplcsBl}* floating in the eddies, or with momcutary exertion still struggling to ascend. 1 1 NATUBAL PBODUOnONS— nSB. 29 In BO case is the smallest disposition to descend perceptible: its course lis still onwards, until, dying at last, it floats with myriads of others to be cast upon the beach, attracting to a hideous banquet a multitude of Bears and other carnivorous beasts from Mie adjacent mountains. In like manner perish the other shoals upon the head-waters of the several streams to which they resort.* I am not, however, to write a treatise on Natural History, but to confine myself to such notes as may tend practically to a useful end. Nevertheless I may be pardoned if I have dwelt passingly upon a fact which, if for its singularity alone, is worthy of record. Before quitting this branch of the sub- ject, too, I may supply some memoranda which will convey an idea of the productiveness, in favorable years, of the salmon-fisheries on the Fraser. At the Post of Fraser's Lake, in 1836, 36,000 dried salmon were purchased and stored for use ; and at other Posts proportionate quantities were likewise secured out of the superabundant provision made by the natives. The year in question, it is true, was one of great abundance. At Fort Langley (some fifteen miles above New Westminster) large quantities were formerly salted every year by the Hudson's Bay Company, as well for home consumption as for exportation. In some seasons be- tween two and three thousand barrels were thus provided j the fish procured by barter from the natives. For some years past private fisheries have been established, where large quan- tities are annually cured : and recently an establishment for preserving the fish in cans for exportation has been started, which promises to be very successful. The chief markets arc South America, the Sandwich Islands, and Australia. We may here mention cursorily that, while the salmon, of some particular variety, is common, perhaps, to every stream issuing along the Coast from the Coast-range of mountains, * On the Columbia the Salmon attain to the head of the McGil- livray Fork, more than a thousand miles from the sea. There is there a small lake, which, before the winter sets in, is crowded, I hay* been assured, with the dead and dying fish. fO NATURAL PRODUOTIOIfS — FIBfl. BB well as to the many tributaries of the Fraser, it is not found upon the waters of British Columbia tributary to the Peace Biver, or indeed to any of the streams flowing east- ward from the Bocky-Mountain boundary of the Province. Thus Peace Biver, and its co-tributary to the great McKenziej the Athabasca, as well as the Saskatchewan, are destitute of this valuable fish. With our knowledge of the habits of the genus it would be a facile undertaking to introduce the fish artificially into these rivers, by spawn taken from the western watershed : but it is questionable whether the extreme length of the two first-named streams, at least, in their course to the ocean, might not prove an insurmountable obstacle to their successful propagation. Nevertheless, it is possible that the attempt may at some future day be made. A very valuable fish entering Fraser Bivir to spawn in early Spring, is the ThaUichihys (or preferably Osmervi) Richardsonii — locally known as the Ool^-han.'" It appears in immense shoals, and is caught either with the scoop-net, or, like the Herring on the sea-board, with the rake. This simple device is merely a long light pole, flattened in one direction so as to pass readily through the water, and with the edge set towards the lower extremity with a row of sharply-pointed teeth. The fisherman, entering the shoal, passes the implement repeatedly through the water, with a rapid stroke, each time transfixing several fish. Thus a copious supply is soon secured. The Ooluhan is, in the estimation of most people, one of the most delicious products of the sea. Smaller than the Herring, it is of a far more delicate flavor; and so rich that, when dried, it is inflammable.f This fish * I was long under the impression that this fish was a variety of Pilchard {Clupanodon Thrisad) peculiar to the Pacific; and am in- debted to Dr. Robert Brown, of Edinburgh, formerly in command of the Vancouver Island Exploring Expedition, for the correction adopted above. •j So much so, indeed, that, in Alaska, where it is likewise found, it is I believe called the " Candle-fish." It is mentioned by Fran- ch^re, in his account of the Oolumbia River, under the name of Outhelekane, from which iti present designation is modified ; and, NATURAL PRODUOTIONB — FISH. 81 b not confined to Fraser River, but frequents likewise the Nass, a largo stream issuing on the frontier between British Columbia and Alaska; another stream debouuhing into Gardner's Canal ; and probably other rivers along the Coast. Those caught at the mouth of the Nass are of a quality even richer than those of Fraser River. The natives, who assemble there in great numbers in Spring to prosecute the fishery, besides drying them in largo quantities, extract from the surplus a fine oil, which is highly prized by them as a luxury, and forms a staple article of barter with the interior tribes. This oil, of a whitish colour, and approach- ing to the consistence of thin lard, is regarded by those of the Faculty who are acquainted with its properties, as equally eflScacious with the Cod-liver Oil so commonly prescribed : and it is said to have the great advantage of being far more palatable. With the exception of a few scores of casks salted annually for local sale, and a quantity prepared like the Red- herring, this fish has not yet, I believe, been systematically cured, or become an article of exportation. There can be no question, however, that, when more widely known and pro- perly prepared, it will be the object of much extraneous demand. As already remarked, all the larger streams along the Coast abound with Salmon. The SkeenS, before mentioned, discharging at Port Essington, and the Bilwhoola, flowing into the North Bcntinck Arm of Milbank Sound, may be specially noted; though equalled, doubtless, by many others. The minor streams swarm during the season with a small variety, known locally to the northward as the Sqtidg-gan ; inferior in richness to the larger fish, and therefore not so [from the circumstance of its being strung on cords by the natives I to dry, was called by the voyageurs Poisson a la lirasse, or Fathom- [fish. They were formerly very abundant in Spring on the Lower Columbia ; but suddenly, about the year 1835, they ceased to ap- [pear, and thence-forward up at least to 1858, none frequented the [river. I have been informed, however, that they have since re- I appeared, and that there is now a regular supply as formerly. 8a NATrBAL PBODUOTXOirS— riSB. well adapted for salting, but nevertheless of excellent quality. I may here mention as a peculiar trait that the Salmon of this Coast — at least those ascending the larger rivers such as the Columbia, the Fraser, and others — unlike their European congeners, do not rise to the artificial fly. In the inlets around Vancouver Island and elsewhere, while they remain in the sea, and at all seasons of the year, they are readily caught by trolling. The natives employ generally a herring as the bait : but the spoon-bait is found by amateurs to be equally efficacious. It will be inferred that the fish occupy continuously the narrow waters, adjacent probably to the en- trance of the streams of their nativity, until they finally re- enter the rivers to spawn : and, admitting the apparently unquestionable fact that some varieties, at least, never return to the sea, it follows as a consequence that the whole term of their existence, from the time when the fry descend the rivers until their final return to spawn, whatever the interval may be before they attain maturity, is passed in these re- treats. The quality of the winter fish, caught in these localities in their full perfection, is incomparably fine. Tho size varies, apparently, in difierent positions. In the Saanich Arm, for instance, a little to the north of Victoria, the weight may vary from fifteen to thirty pounds or more : but it was mentioned about a month ago (in March) in the British Colonist newspaper, that a fish caught wilh the bait in the outer harbour of Victoria had been brought to market, the weight of which was fifty-five pounds. Fish of this size are, however, comparatively rare. Repeated examination leads me to the conclusion that the Herring is here the favourite food of the Salmon. It f;; the most successful natural bait; and I have almost ioTariably found one, and frequently several, of these fish, in ^-he stomachs of ordinary- sized Salmon ; but smelts, and occasionally prawns, are also found. It may be added that, while the Salmon refuses the fly or any other bait after entering the fresh water, the closest examination of the intestines of the ascending fish NATURAL PRODUCTIOIfS — FISH. 38 docs not, as far as my experionce goes, reveal upon what nutriment they then subsist. A mucous substance alone is discernible j and it must bo inferred that minute in/moria, the nature of which the microscope might probably detect, is at this period their oole source of nourishment. But we have dwelt sufficiently on this theme, and must proceed to notice the other products in which these waters arc notably prolific. And first of the Herring. This valu- able fish resorts in prodigious numbers, at the spawing season in early Spring, to the bays and inlets of the Gulf of Georgia, and elsewhere generally along the (^oast. The method by which the natives capture them at this season, mentioned before while treating of the Ooltl-han, suggests an idea of their sciircely conceivable numbers. In appearance they do not perceptibly differ from the European variety, though rather smaller. At the period i^; question the quality of these fi-sh is inferior; but when caught during their prime, with the net, on the banks which they permanently frequent, they are, to my cf^rception, fully equal to their congeners of the Atlantic sea-board. This remark applies at least to some of the localities bordering on tho Gulf of Georgia ; and I fancy is generally true. The spawn, attached to sea-weed, or to branches purposely sunk in the shallows for its reception, is gathered in largo quantities by the natives, and dried for food. The Cod caught in the narrow waters are inferior to the Atlantic fish. There are, however, certain outlying banks upon which they are found abundantly, of a quality, it is said, approaching, if not fully equal to, the la°t. The Halibut attains upon this Coast a very high degree of perfection. On the outer shore of Queen Charlotte's Island, especially, it is found of a very large size ; frequently ex- ceeding 100 pounds in weight, and not unseldom, I am assured, of twice that size. Caught with the hook, these fish are dried in large quantities by the natives, especially of the more northerly parta of the Coast. 84 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — FI8H. To these may be added the Smelt, the Rock-cod, the Floun- der, Whiting, and a host of others, with which, in season, the markets of Victoria ara constantly supplied — chiefly through the industry of Italia" fishermen, who appear here to enjoy a presci ptivc monopoly of the trade. Oysters are very abundant. Those dredged near Victoria are of small size, but woU-flavoured : northward, in the vicinity of Comox, a larger sample is procured. Of Cockles, Mussels, and other ehell-fish there is a copious supply. Crabs and Prawns are not wanting ; but there are no Lobsters, save a small kind found in fresh-water streamlets. Oil-producing fish, such as the Ground-shark and the Dog-fish, are common to the whole Coast : the latter so abundant as to give lucrative employ- ment to many fishermen and afford a boundless resource prospectively to others. Of the Phocidae the Hair-seal is the most numerous ; while the Fur-seal, the Sea-lion, &c., are found, chiefly on the outer shores. The Whale-fishery has of late attracted much attention, and has been prosecuted with a certain degree of success; though, from want of experience probably, less than one might have been justified in expecting. On the outer Coast Whales of the largest description are numerous ; which, by the native inhabitants, who combine in parties for the pur- pose, are harpooned and captured by an ingenious process which it is unnecessary here to describe. In the inland waters of the archipelago a variety known as the Hump- backed Whale is very numerous. These yield from 30 to 50 barrels, or more, of oil ; and so far have been killed by the whaling-parties with the harpoon-gun and shell. Many wounded victims, however, through some mismanagement of detail, or perhaps unavoidably under the system, have thus escaped. The system, however, from its assumed wasteful- ness, is, I am informed, declared illegal by the general laws of the Dominion : in which case it will of course be inter- dicted, and give place to other schemes, less liable to objec tion. On the whole the pursuit of the Whale in these waters, NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — BEASTS OF THE CHASE, &0. 35 vigorously prosecuted, with a competent knowledge of the business, will doubtless prove ere long a lucrative and exten> eive branch of the Provincial industries. CHAPTER VI. Natural Productions Continued. — Beasts of.thb Chase, Birds, &o. The Beasts of the Chase found in British Columbia are sufficiently varied, and in parts very numerous. Of the fur- bearing kinds the following list comprises the chief exports of the Hudson's Bay Company, and recently of private traders who have engaged in the business : — Bears, Brown, Black, and Grizzly ; Beaver ; Badgers ; Foxes, Silver, Cross, and Red ; Fishers ; Martens ; Minks; Lynxes, Grey and Spotted ; Musquash ; Otters, Sea and Land ; Panthers ; Raccoons ; Wolves, Black and Grey of the large kinc? ; Wolves of the smaller kind, known as thf Cajole'', Wolverines. The Black-tailed Deer is very numerous along the Coast, and on the islands frr--, the Gulf of Georgia northwards, where they attain to great perfeotibn in due season. They 86 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — UPCASTS OF THE CHA8F, &C. are also conimon in the hilly parts of the Interior, as high, nearly, as Ihle-ct-leh (Fort George) ; above which point thev are rarely, if ever, seen. IJesides the gun, various devices are employed by the natives to capture them; along the Coast frc(|ucnt]y by pit-falls, in the interior by the snare. The large North-western Stag ( (J. Elaplius) is very nu- merous in the hilly parts of Vancouver Island, and upon the Coast of the Mainland as high as about Latitude 52°. This animal differs considerably, both in size and appearance, from the Ked-deer of the Eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains; and though this difference may arise partly from the nature of its habitat, it is probable that they are specifically distinct. They attain to an enormous size, approaching to that of a well-growu ox ; and being unwary animals are easily stalked. This auiiual is locally called the "Elk;" of course erro- neously, it being a true stag in all its characteristics. The Kein-deer ( C Tarmulm), the Caribou* of the Cana- dian voyageurs, inhabits all the mountainous regions depen- dent on the lloeky Mountains and the Coast Range, north of a certain point. In the interior this limit is about Latitude 49° ; in the Coast vicinage about 51°; south of which posi- tions it is not found ; or, if so, not far, and rarely. The species found in these localities, distinguished by Richardson as the Rocky-mountain Rein-deer, differs materially from the variety common to Hudson's Bay, known as the Rein-deer of the Barren Lands, than which it is very much larger. The j?eneral characteristics of this animal are so well known that description would be superfluous. Its susceptibility to the attacks of the fly, especially of the large Gad-fly called after it CEstrus Tarandi, and the partiality it exhibits to the odour of smoke, arising from \U habit of resorting to the * It is lioui ihis animal tliat the famous Caribou mines receive their designation, from being situated in their ancient resorts, culled by the Ta-cully, Uo-isec-kai/a, or Rein-deer region ; and translated to the miners in broken French as the Caribou-land. I have seen this word written, with an affectation of the French ortliography, Caribauf; but it is probably not of French origin, but derived from Bonie one of the native dialects of Canada. IfATUHAL PRODUCTlOiNS — BEASTS OP THE CHASE, &C. 87 vicinity of casual fires in the woo' 3 as u orotection against the attacks of its tormentors, are taken advantage of by the Ta-cuUy of the Upper Fraser, who, even in the winter season, employ lighted brands of rotten wood to cover their approach to the herds while feeding.* During the Summer season, besides other devices, the natives commonly employ the snare for its capture. Of the three varieties of the Bear found in British Colum- bia, the Grizzly is the largest, and, as its distinctive designa- tion ( U. Ferox) implies, by far the most formidable to the hunter. It does not climb, like the others. The Black and Brown varieties, only, are I believe found in Vancouver Island. These are timid ; and, with the exception of the occasional seizure of a stray pig of the settler, comparatively harmless. T»o.ys and the gun are an eflScacious mode of hunt- ing tl'o'PT Hii lis: but the natives employ various devices to obtaiu tb'im — the Coast Indians frequently the dead-fall trap, the Interior races the snare. The Panther or Couguar {F. Concohr of Lin.) of this Coast is an animal, formidable for its strength and riipaoity, but Cowardly, save when wounded or at bay. Deer are its chief prey : but it occasionally commits a depredation on the settler's stock. To encourage its deatructiou, a premium of ten dollars a head is offered by the Provincial (- jvernment. In the more settled districts these animals are becoming con- stantly more rare. Th. y are found on Vancouver Island and along the Coast fov s<>me distance northward of 49° , but I have never known ;beni t, be met with in the interior of the Mainland, within 'h • 'Ini'ts of the Province. The Lynx (^Lmp-a • irler, o\ Fichou of the voyageurs) is found of two varieties ; ^.'-Uj the Spotted, being common to * In the great mouiitaiu-plateiiu l^'ing at the heads of tlie Cliil- cotin River, and extending along the Coast Range, where the Rein- deer are especially numerous, the hunters construct huts during the fly-season, disguised outside witli dead braiiches so as to re- semble the head of a fallen tree. In these huts constant smoke is maintained ; lured by whicli the deer approach, and .ire shot from tho nmbuih. 88 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — BEASTS OF THE OHASH, &0. the southern parts; the second, the Grey, confined, appa- rently, to the northern interior. The latter, by far the finer variety, appears periodically in vast numbers, siraultaueously in British Columbia and in the regions east of the Rocky Mountains. These animals are caught usually with the snare ; and when numerous afibrd a very lucrative employ- ment to tlie hunter. They prey chiefly upon a variety of Hare {L. Variabilis, so called from its changing its color in winter from grey to white; which also periodically abounds throughout the interior. Increasing with marvellous rapid- ity, these last animals become for the time a very valuable source of subsistence ; and when the supply of Salmon par- tially fails in the upper parts ot t]i.^ Fi-aser, as it sometimes unaccountably does, the abundan "'^ Harea supplies the deficiency. When, however, the two - uultaneously, the privation is, by the natives, severely feii. Reading not long since an extract from some work professing to give an ac- count of Uritish Columbia, I noticed that a mysterious con- nexion is gravely asserted between the Qccasional scarcity of the Salmon, and the periodical abundance of the Hare, as if they were in some way mutually dependent : but it seems needless to say that this extraordinary assertion is entirely fabulous. As regards the sudden disappearance of the Hare, after increasing to inconceivable numbers, I may add that it is caused by an eruptive epidemic, Dy which all are carried ofi" save a scanty remnant through which the race is contin- ued and its numbers propagated anew. The Lynx disappears from a similar cause, generally the succeeding year; and the Marten, occupying the woodland tracts of the interior, is in like manner subject to periodical fluctuation of numbers, through a similar process. It would prolong unnecessarily this general account, were the writer to dwell on the several devices employed to secure the difiercnt fur-bearing animals that have been enumerated. Before leaving the subject, however, we may notice divers other objects of the chase which, some of them of marked I .11' NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — BEASTS OF THE CHASE, &0. 39 Utility to the native inhabitants, present at least attractions for the sportsman, if not important to the ordinary settler. Among these the Mountain Goat is conspicuous, frequenting the pre- cipitous eminences ol the various mountain spurs, and espe- cially numerous on the offsets of the Coast-range. Along the Coast the natives hunt it persistently, as well for its flesh, which, of the fern le at least, is sufficiently palatable, as for the hair and wool, of which they manufacture blankets with much taste and ingenuity. Beneath the long hair of this animal, which is of a dull white, there is a thick coating of wool, in fineness at least, if not in length, perhaps not inferior to that of the Cashmere Goat. The Mountain Sheep, or Big-horn, frequents the less pre- cipitous portions of the Rocky Mountains, where they subside into grassy slopes. It is found on various ridges radiating from the main range towards the centre of the Province. This animal, prized for the extreme delicacy of its flesh and the high condition to which it attains, is stalked as the herds descend 1,0 the lower grounds to feed — the aid of a telescope being of advantage to detect their whereabout. As in most positions they can be approached very closely, loose shot ia preferred by many hunters to the bullet, in the chase of these animals : and this because, when not killed outright, the pro- gress of the wounded animal is thereby sooner arrested. The wire- cartridge, however, is the most elficacious missile. The Moose-deer, numerous in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, is not found on the Coast, and does not penetrate far into the central parts of British Columbia. A stray Moose is occasionally foixnd as low down on the Fraser as Fort George; but very rarely. Along the verge of the Rocky Mountains the Wood-buffalo was once numerous, and is still found at the heads of the Mackenzie Fork of Fraser River and elsewhere, probably in little diminished numbers. From the heads of the Tete Jaune Branch they had disappeared a good many years ago, and nu- merous relics attested the destruction to which the race had 40 NATUKAL PRODUCTIONS — BEASTS OP THE CHASE, &0. been subjected. That portion of the Country, however, has not of late years been so much frequented by the trappers as formerly, and it is possible that fresh herds may have appeared there. The Wood- buffalo does not apparently differ, specifi- cally, from the Bison of the Plains ; but is said to attain gen- erally a larger size, probably because less migratory in its habits, and enjoying scenes of pasture less frequently disturbed. The Birds of British Columbia are numerous in kind, and among them are many useful varieties which yield abundant attraction, not only to the professed sportsman, bent only on amusement, but as a relaxation, at times, to the laborious colonist, who finds in them a resource both of luxury and economical utility. Among these the Ruffed Grouse ( T. Urn- hellus) is commonly found throughout the Province, frequent- ing chiefly the neighbourhood of water-courses and the adjacent forests. The Blue, or Dusky, Grouse (7'. Obscurus), a larger variety frequenting the hilly tracts where Fii'-trees abound, in Vancouver Island and in the interior as high as the vicinity of Alexandria. The Spotted Grouse ( 2'. Canadensis). This variety is very common in the wooded tracts of the Mainland interior, up to the summits of the Rocky Mountain passes, and frequents preferably the dry tracts occupied by the Banks' Pine where the Uva Ursi and the dwarf Whortle-berry flour- ish. A bird of excessive simplicity ; the male being probably the most beautiful of the genus. The Sharp-tailed Grouse, or " Pheasant " ( T. Phasianelliis) — the Prairie Chicken of the United States frontier. Unlike the other varieties, which are found chiefly in isolated coveys, these Grouse congregate in large packs, and are common to all the open valleys of the Central District, up to a point a little beyond Alexandria. They are in parts extremely abundant, and, frequenting the open country, afford firsf-class shooting to the sportsman. The Cock of llie Plains ( 71 UrojiJiasiauus of Wilson and Bonapiirto). This noble bird, approaching a small Turkey in •ize, and known to the Americans as the " Sage-hen," is never wn NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — BEASTS OF THE CHASE, &0. 41 found except in the hot, sandy, barrens, among the Artemisia and the Cactus. I am therefore scarcely justified in classing it among the birds of British Columbia, saving that a stray covey may occasionally penetrate within the frontier, at the point on the Okinugan where, as before mentioned, the ex- treme North-west angle of the Great Desert partially intrudes. Lower down the Okinagan they become extremely common ; and after the subsidence of the summer freshets congregate in numerous packs along the borders of the Columbia. This bird feeds chiefly on the tender shoots of the Artemisia, the succu- lent leaves of the Cactus, and other products of the desert regions it inhabits; and it has this marked peculiarity, that the gizzard is much less compressed and muscular than usual with gallinaceous birds, is veiy large, and in appearance perfectly resembles a paunch or maw. This peculiarity has not escaped the notice of Wilson and his fellow ornithologists. It has, however, in all other respects the characteristics of the true Grouse, and, like the rest of the genus, the legs and tars^ are thickly feathered. The Ptarmigan is found in all the mountainous tracts bor- dering on the Coast Range and the Rocky Mountains : proba- bly, too, in the mountain-ridges of Vancouver Island. On the Mainland I have killed it in winter on the elevated divide between the waters of Thompson's River and the Fraser, in the neighbourhood of the point known as Bridge Creek. In the summier, before moulting, the snow-white plumage of this beautiful bird becomes of a piebald hue. The Crested Quail, though not indigenous, is becoming very numerous in the settled districts of Vancouver Island. This bird, introduced originally from California, has thriven well, and promises soon to yield attractive game to the sportsman. Of Birds of Passage there is a great variety, including the Canada Goose, and several other varieties; the Mallard, the Teal, the Widgeon, and other Ducks ; the Swan ; and a host of others. Of these birds, in the Spring on their way upward, and in the Autumn on their return from their breeding places, 42 OLIMATB, AQBICULTUBS, &C. there are immense numbers in every favorable locality. They become very fat, and are a valuable resource during their season. The delta of the Fraser is a noted wintering-ground for these various fowl, where, over an area of groat extent, they are found in vast flocks. The Passenger Pigeon resorts to the J nterior localities ; on the Coast a different species, re- sembling the Stock-dove, is found. It is, however, needless to extend the list, which might be done almost indefinitely. Of singing birds there are comparatively few varieties ; and none equalling the songsters of the Old World. The Meadow Lark may be instanced as perhaps the finest : but though its notes are rich, they are not sustained. Beauty of plumage however, is a frequent characteristic ; and prominent among these is the Humming-bird, a variety of which is found throughout the Province, as high even as Stuart's Lake. There are several harmless varieties of Snake, but only one that is venomous — the Eattksnake. This reptile, however, k confined to the dry region between Thompson's River and the Southern Boundary. Bad as its reputation is, the Rattlesnake is afler all an inoffensive creature, more sinned against than sinning. That its bite is very venomous, how- ever, there can be_ no doubt: but in all the writer's experience, which is not a short one, he has never witnessed a case of biting by this snake, even in parts south of the line, where they are very numerous. CHAPTER VII. Climate, Agriculture, &c. Before entering on the subject of the Climate of British Columbia it is necessary to remind the reader of the following important fact : namely, that the winter tempfraturr of posi- OLIMATl, AQRIOULTUBE, &0. 48 tiona on the northern Pacific Coast, as compared with o.hera on the Atlantic sea-board, is equivalent to at least ttn de(^ "cea of Latitude in favor of the former. Thus the isothermal line of the mean annual temperature of 50° Fahrenheit, which leaves the Atlantic in about Latitude 41", and, curving into Ruperts-land as high as the 50th parallel, is assumed to cross the Rocky Mountains in about Latitude 49°, strikes the Pacific near Milbank Sound, in about Latitude 52°. This is of course an approximation, only, as regards intermediate points ; but the extremes are marked too strongly to escape even the most casual notice. We are not, however, to enter into a disquisition as to the possible causes of this disparity : it is enough to know that it exists; and that, for instance, while the winter temperature of Quebec is proverbially severe, the corresponding season at the mouth of the Columbia, in the Bame degree of Latitude, is as mild as that of the South of England. Upon the southern portion of Vancouver Island the climate, as a whole, may perhaps be compared with the last : saving that there is a greater degree of summer heat, with less humidity. The maximum temperature in the shade near Victoria, in parts of July and August, ranges from 80° to 90° of Fahrenheit; and has on several occa.'^'ons been remarked by the writer as high even as 96^, carefully noted on an excellent thermometer, by Dollond, placed in the shade, out of the in- fluence of reflected heat.* The mercury in winter sometimes descends as low as 10° — i. e. twent"-two degrees below the freezing-point of Fahrenheit — in seasons of extreme severity ; but this very rarely, and for a very brief period. Hence, though some winters may afford good ; '-ating around Victoria, and this occasionally for several weeks together, more generally * For instance, at 3 p.m. at a position in Saanich, in 1870— June 6th, 79° July 6th, 94° 7th, 87° 7th, 92° 8th, 86° 8th, 83° July 3rd, 90° 9th, 86° 4th, 93° Aug. 2nd to 8th, 84° to 96° on 8th Bth, 94* 9th, y3«» "AM,' 44 CLIMATE, AQRICULTURK, &C. the ice will last only for a few days, or not become sufficiently strong to bear. At New Westminster on the INIainland, as elsewhere on the Lower Fraser, there is a greater degree of humidity through- out the year, and the temperature, if more equably warm in summer, does not probably attain to the same extreme of heat. In winter, on the other hand, the lowest extreme, as might be inferred from its inlanc.. position, is comparatively more severe. In the Upper Country the climate is dry, and continuously hot in summer ; especially from the vicinity of Thompson's River towards the southern frontier, east of the Cascade Range. The same characteristic^, however, apply in a some- what less degree to the portion lying northward, towards Alexandria. Approaching the Okinugan, on the soutliern frontier, the summer temperature is almost tropical in its character. The winter cold, on the other hand, is compara- tively sharp; but there is nothing approaching the continu- ous severity experienced on the eastern slopes of the llocky Mountains. Little snow falls on the general surface ; and in many parts it is almost entirely absent for any lengthened period. In the Upper District, beyond Alexandria, notwithstand- ing the elevation above the sea, the climate is warm in sum- mer : in the higher localities, subject to occasional night- frosts. But as a general rule these do not affect the lovrer levels, where modifying influences exist. In winter, a moderate degree of cold prevails ; alternated occasionally with severe intervals produced by winds from the northward and eastward mountains. Thus the thermometer will, durinir such intervals, sink to 15° or 20° below zero of Fahrenheit, and sometimes even to the freezing point of mercury. But such degree of cold is exceptional, nnd rarely lasts more than three or four days at a time, when a genial change ensues. This, briefly, comprises the main features of the climate of the Province in its several divisions. For such as may desire to consult more accurate data, some meteorological tables CLTMATB, AQRICULTURB, &C. 46 will be inserted in the Appendix : meanwhile, in connexion with the general subject, I subjoin brief extracts from the published reports of Officers of the Royal Engineers. Speaking of Fort Alexandria, Lieut. H. S. Palmer says : "At 11 A.M. on the 16th August (1862) the temperature of " the air in the shade being 70° 5 Fahrenheit, that of the " Fraser was 58° Fahrenheit ; and at 10 a.m. on the 29th " of September, the temperatures of air and water were rc- " spectively 58° and 46° Fahrenheit." With reference to points in the vicinity of Alexandria he says : "The altitude of this district is fi'equently quoted as " rendering it unsuitable to agriculture, but the highly satis- " factory results obtained at Williams Lake and Beaver Lake, " two of the most advanced farms in the Colony, where, at " an elevation of 2,100 and 2,200 feet, varieties of grain and " vegetables are yearly raised in great perfection and abun- " dance, indicate the fertility of the soil, and the absence of "influences materially discouraging to agriculture. There " are, in the section of country under discussion, large tracts " of unoccupied land, where the soil rivals that of the farms " above-mentioned, and where much of the ground is literally " fit for the plough."* Of the portion lying between Alexandria and Thompson's River, Captain Parsons writes : " Bridge-Creek flows into a " large stream which is said to be a tributary of Horse-fly " Creek. Troughton's boiling-point thermometer shewed a " temperature at the level of the house of 206° on the " 29th August, and of 206° 40 on 31st August, indicating " altitudes of about 3,119 and 3,054 feet respectively, or a " mean of 3,086 feet above the level of the sea; nevertheless " the temperature of the air in the shade at 8 a.m. of the " 29th was 57°, and of the water of the Creek 54°. On the ♦' 31st, at 7 p.m. the arv was 60° 75, and on the 1st Septem- * Reports of Lieut. H. Spencer Palmer, R. E., to Colonel R. 0. Moody, R. E., Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works in British I I Uolumbia, 'i4taiNove mber, m^z, ana zist feoruary, inba. 46 OLIMATB, AORIOULTURI, &0. " ber, at 7 a.m., it was 48° of Fahrenheit. ♦♦♦*♦♦♦ Lake La " Hacho is about 2,488 feet above the sea. The temperature *' of the air at 5 A.M. on the 30th August was 42° 5, and at " 7.30 A.M. 54°, at which time the temperature of the water " in the lake was 64°. On the same day the thermometer " (not blackened) shewed 80° at noon in the gun.********* *• From the foregoing description you will see the great alti- '* tude of even the valleys between Lake La Hache and the " Pavilion, while the casual thermometer-readings mentioned " will serve to indicate the temperatures during the month " of August and the first half of September. The whole " period was excessively hot in the day time, with a pleasant " mildness at night. There was no frost except at the head " of the Great Chasm on the occasion mentioned, but it " seems reasonable to suppose that abou' a month later night- " frosts would be found to prevail.******* Heavy dews were '* prevalent, but it seems probable, both from report and the " appearance of the water-courses, that very little rain falls " in this part of the country. ' During six vseeks, from the "commencement of August, there were onl}^ two dajs on " which rain fell, and then it was accompanied by heavy " thunder and lightning." * Enough, however, has probably been said on this subject; and a brief review of the agricultural products of the various sections will serve equally to illustrate the capacity both of the climate and the soil to second the industry of the agrU culturist. In the settled portions of Vancouver Island all the com- mon cereals are produced abundantly. Wheat yields ordi- narily from 80 to 40 bushels per acre j Oats f produce fre- quently as high as 60 bushels. Indian Corn, though not largely cultivated, and perhaps not an economical crop for this locality, ripens freely by the end of September. Pota- * Report of Captain R. M. Parsons, R. E., to Coloacl Mood/, dated 16th September, 1862. f See Appendix Q. *■ < «■ <■ OLIMATB, AORIOULTURl, &0. ■ 41 to«9, turnips, and all the usual varictiea of culinary vegota- bles, grow to a great size. The climate sceras to bo specially well adapted for the growth of Hops. These are cultivated sufficiently to meet the local demand; the surplus, if any, being exported to San Francisco, where their superior quality secures for them a ready sale.* The average yield is from 1 .200 lbs. in ordinary years, to 2,000 lbs. per acre in fuvor- . rieaaons. On the peninsula near Victoria, and I pre- purae in other choice localities, the Musk-melon and the Water-melon attain perfect maturity in the open air, without artificial aid; the Tomato and the Capsicum yield copiously; the Peach ripens its fruit as a standard ; and the Grape (of the Isabella variety) produce* abundantly and comes to full maturity in a favorable exposure. Orchard fruits, exclusive of the Peach which is not generally planted, are cultivated abundantly throughout the settlements, and with marked success. On the Lower Fraser the climate is adapted generally for the same productions, and most of those enumerated are cuU ♦ ted there. . bout Thompson's River the continuous summer heat is specially favorable for the production of such fruits as the Melon. Indian Corn woulc', probably be; profitable as a gen- eral crop. Wheat and other cereals, with all kinds of culi- nary vegetables, flourish. In parts, where the nature of the locality demands it, irrigation is resorted to with, as may be supposed, the most successful results. Approaching the Southern frontier, upon the OkinSgan, the Grape, were it desirable, might be largely cultivated, and, I do not hesitate to say, with success. I have already noticed the proximity of this portion of the Province to the Great Desert, the in- tense heats from which extend an influence far around. At Alexandria, long before the general settlement of the Province, Wheat was cultivated on a limited scale f From * See Appendix RR. f Wheat was also raised for some years in considerable qaanti- 48 CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. 1843 to 1848, bet'weeD 400 and 500 bushels were raised an- nually at the Hudson's Bay Company's Post, and converted into flour by means of a mill, with stones eighteen inches in diameter, wrought by horses. As much as forty bushels to the acre, by careful measurement, and of the finest quality, were raised on portions of the land cultivated during the in- terval mentioned. Of late years large quantities are annually raised in the same neighbourhood, as well as elsewhere in the Central District ; and it is needless to add with the ad- vantage of very diflFerent appliances for its subsequent man- ufacture. As before casually remarked, the country from Alexandria upwards is to be regarded rather in the light of a hunting and mining region than as adapted for agricultural settle- ment. Nevertheless, as high as Fraser's Lake, Barley yields abundantly ; and the Potatoe, with of course other culinary vegetables, comes to great perfection.* There are large tracts of the most nutritious pasture throughout. Before quitting this important subject, however, I judge it well to pursue it a little further than I had at first intend- ed. And first, preferring to quote, where possible, an inde- pendent authority, I avail myself of the following excellent remarks which I find published in the British Colonist news- paper, from the journal of Mr. James Richardson, conduct- ing the Geological Survey of the Province for the Dominion Government : — " The vegetable soil which has been mentioned seems " to be of a very productive character, and whether ia the '' forest, the field, or the garden, appears, combined with the " favorable climate, to yield large returns. In the Comox *' district, about 140 miles from Victoria, as already stated. ties at Fort George ; but owing to the occasional occurrence of night-frosts, with varjing success. * In 1839 the return, at Eraser's Lake, from 15 bushels of cut seed, exceeded TOO bushels of Potatoes, of the Ladies' Finger va- riety. Manure, it should be added, was employed- and the eeasoa was very favourable. CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. 49 " the soil is spread over a very considerable area of prairie " country, commonly designated an opening, extending from " the Coast up the diflFerent branches of the Courtenay River " for seven or eight miles. The surface of this district, which " is naturally free from timber, with the exception of single " trees and stumps, chiefly of Oaks ( Quercus Garryana) and "strips of Alders {Alnus Orcgona) in the bottoms, may be " some twelve square miles, the scenery of which is pictur- " esque and parklike. Its margin is very irregular in shape, " and it is surrounded by a growth of very heavy timber, "among which are the Douglas Pine {Abies Dovrjlnsn) often " attaining ten feet in diameter and 200 feet in height, half "of which is free from branches, and the Cedar ( 77t?//a " Gigantea), often equally large. The open country in its " natural state is mostly covered with a growth of ferns, " which sometimes attain a height of ten feet, with stems " three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and roots descending " to a depth of three feet. These roots the native Indians " prepare in some peculiar way for winter food, and excavate " deep trenches to obtain them. The farmers are under the " necessity of grubbing up the fern roots before the gi-ound " is ready for use, and they are often voluntarily assisted by "their pigs in this operation; these animals, it is said, " relishing the fern root as food. I was informed by Mr. " John Robb and Mr. John McFarlan, two partnership set- " tiers of the district, that the average yield of laud, after it " is cleared and thoroughly under cultivation, is, of Wheat, " from 30 to C5 bushels per acre ; Barley, 10 i\) 45 bushels ; "Oats, 50 to 60; Pease, 40 to 45 ; Potatoes, 150 to 200; " Turnips, 20 to 25 tons. Some of the Turnips exhibited by " Mr. Robb at the agricultural show are said to have been " remarkably heavy ; but those of the Swedish and yellow " varieties, seen by me, I consider rather small. The season, " however, was said to be an unusually dry one. The yield " of Timothy hay is said to be about two tons per acre. " Clover thrives well, and rye grass is valued for its after crop. m CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &0. " The yield of butter per cow, after calf feeding, is about *' 150 lbs. annually, the ordinary selling price being 40 cents "per pound. Cattle generally' require to !.i home-fed from " the beginning of December to the middle of April. Snow "seldom lies Ion,'. Heavy falls sometimes occur; but gen- " erally disappear in a few days. Once or twice snow has " remained on the ground for two months. Apples, pears, " plums, cherries, white and red raspberries, red, white, and *' black currants, and most kinds of fruit, thrive remarkably "wel! Some apples, of which I obtained samples, measured "thirteen inches in circumference and weighed nine- " teen ounces. They were high-flavoured and well-adapted "for eating and cooking. Of the pears many measured "eleven inches in circumference, and were high-flavoured "and juicy. " At Gabriola, prairie land, or openings, such as those " already described at Comox, occur. More of them are met " with on Saltspring Island, but in neither place of the same " extent as at Comox. Mr. Griffith, one of the settlers at " Saltspring, informed me that the fall wheat thrives well " there, and yields from 35 to 40 bushels per acre. Of other " grains the yield seems to be about the same as at Comox. " In Mr. Griffith's garden there was a large plot of common "winter cabbage, the solid heads of most of which measured " from three to four feet in circumference. Red cabbage and " cauliflowers were equally large and sound. Carrots and " parsnips were large, as well as onions ; and there was " abundance of tomatoes, and several varieties of gooseber- "ries, which did not seem to thrive so well at Comox. " Mr. G riffith informs me that at Saltspring the bushes give "in quantity and quali>y a crop equal with the best English. "The crops of all the varieties of currants and raspberries in " quantity and quality vied with those of Comox. " Mr. Griffith's orchard occupies about two acres, and has " been set out only three or four years, I saw diff'erent va- " rieties of apple pear, peach, plum, and cherry trees, and CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. 51 " the proprietor informed me that all kinds bore fruit last " year. The apples are excellent in quality, and the pears, " though not large, were equal in flavour and juicyness to " any I have ever tasted. " Mr. Griffith has about 300 barn-door fowls, which are " fed on the grain of the farm, and enable him to supply a "great abundance of eggs to the Victoria and Nanaimo " markets, where they sell from 25 to 40 cents per dozen." " At Fulford Harbour, !»lr. Theodore Frago shewed me a " pumpkin which measured 32 inches in length, with a " diameter of 15 inches at the small end and 22 inches at " the other; and he informed me that larger ones had been " used before my arrival. The settlements of North and " South Saanich, as well as of other districts near and around " Victoria, show a good deal of prairie land, " oak openings," "as they are called in that part of the country, from the " greater abundance of trees of this species than elsewhere. In " these oak openings many beautiful farms are met with, the " soil and aspect of them resembling those of Comox. In ad- '■' dition to the grain, fruit, and vegetables enumerated else- " where, the hop vine has been introduced in North Saanich, " and in the neighbourhood of Victoria. In the former place, " Mr. Isaac Cloake and Mr. Henry Wain, with some others, " have each a hop orchard, as it is there termed, of several " acres in extent. Mr. Cloake, who spent nine years amongst " the hop fields of Kent, England, informs me that his hops " are quite equal, if not superior, to the English, which, ac- " cording to him, was tantamount to saying that they were " the best on the face of the earth; and Mr. Wain, who like- "wise had practical experience, stated that in regard to " aroma they were equal to the best he knew. They are of " the variety known as the grape hop. It was introduced " from California, and is said to have greatly improved in " British Columbia. "The yield of hops is here from 1,000 lbs. to 1,700 lbs. "to the acre, and it brings in the Victoria markot Iruin 22 CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. " to 60 cents per pound. When Railway communication is *' established, the article may become one of trade between " the two Provinces, for if I am rightly informed, the hops "imported from England are superior to any raised in *' Canada. "Other settlements of a similar character to those de- " scribed are established between Saanich and Nanaimo, " which I had no opportunity of visiting. Near and around " settlements possessing farms such as mentioned, in many " places rocky hills rise up to heights of 1,000, 2,000, and " even 3,000 feet and more, the surface of which is in some " parts craggy, but in others they present patches with a thin " soil, covered with a firm short bunch-grass, on which sheep " and cattle thrive well : for such of them as I saw were in " good condition. The temperature is cooler in such places " than in the lower and more level country, and during the "heats of summer they afford excellent pasturage, which " will much assist the industry of agriculturists. Along the " coasts and in the interior of Vancouver Island, as well as " on those of the archipelago surrounding it, many localities " for farms, similar to those which have been here described, " will be discovered, and hereafter become the homes of " thousands of a hardy and industrious people." With refprence to the judicious remarks above quoted, I may observe that the winter-feeding of cattle referred to by Mr. Richardson does not imply the necessity of continuous stall-feeding, which of course with large herds, such as some possess, would be an impossibility. The under-growth of the adjacent forests affords, even during the severest season, co- pious and nutritious browsing. A supply of fodder at night, with the shelter of commodious sheds, serves to maintain the majority of the cattle in condition ; while the milch-kine and younger stock receive such additional care as they may re- quire. By this winter-tendance a two-fold advantage, beyond the mere welfare of the herds, is obtained: the straw and other offal of the farm are converted into manure for the future OLIMATB, AOBIOULTUBB, &0. 5S enrichment of the soil, and the cattle, knowing their homes, continue in all respects more tractable. The fern alluded to is characteristic of most of the open parts of Vancouver Island, and a portion of the Lower Fraser. The highest point at which it appears on the Mainland is at Spuzzum, a few miles above Yale. The whole of the Central District is free from it. Though rather troublesome to eradicate entirely, it preisents no serious impediment to the cultivation of the soil. By mow- ing in early summer — affording, if stored, an excellent litter for cattle — its subsequent vigour is immediately checked. A deep ploughing and cross-ploughing with a strong team pre- pares the soil for a first crop of pease or oats ; but it takes some years of cultivation before the last vestiges disappear. Swe- dish turnips, I may add, are generally cultivated, and in most parts attain to an enormous size ; though, as mentioned by Mr. Richardson, at times subject to partial failure, either from the attacks of the fly, or long continued drought. The comparatively humid climate of the Lower Fraser, adapts the vicinity specially for the successful culture of green crops. With this advantage, operating on a soil of teeming fertility, enormous products are obtained. The dairy-yield, promoted by the copious and succulent natural herbage that abounds, is very great. At the mouth of the Fraser is an ex- tensive delta, of whici: the soil, many feet in depth of pure alluvium, is productive la an extraordinary degree. For in- stance, a few years ago, the newspapers took notice of a cauli- flower, raised in this locality and brought over by one of the residents of Victoria, the weight of which I am almost afraid to repeat. It was given, if my memory be correct, at twenty- eight pounds ; and certainly, whatever its exact weight may have been, excited in Victoria general attention as a vegetable curiosity. Portions, only, on the borders of this exuberant tract have hitherto been pre-empted ; and before the whole can be rendered available for occupation n system of dyking must be resorted to, to exclude the overflow of the summer freshets. This process, I am informed, has already been entered upon. 54 OIJMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. on a small scale, by individual settlers : but a systematic pro- secution of the work, whereby a wide expanse may at once be redeertied, is obviously necessary in an economic point of view. In a speech at a public dinner recently given at New "West- minster, I notice that the Premier of the Province alluded specially to this important undertaking as having engaged the attention ol the local Government. BuL there are obstacles to its immediate prosecution. By reference to the Terms of Confederation in the Appendix it will be perceived that, in connexion with the undetermined line of the projected Railway from Canada, it is provided that, for two years from the date of union (July 1871) "the Government of British " Columbia shall not sell or alienate any further portions of " the Public Lands of British Columbia in any other way than " under right of pre-emption, requiring actual residence of the " pre-emptor on the land claimed by him." Hence, vmtil July 1873, the Government is restrained from active measures in this regard, either as a public work, or by charter to a private company Avho might be induced to undertake it. I am not prepared to state, even approximately, what amount of valua- ble land might thus be made available, as no actual surveys have been made ; but it may be safely set down at many thousands of acres, bordering on navigation, and with prolific salmon-fisheries immediately adjacent. With regard to the agriculture of the Central District there is perhaps little to add to what I have already stated. In con- nexion with the Upper District, however, I may make some remarks, applicable to it in common with other elevated por- tions of the vast Territory over which the Dominion Federa- tion now extends. I have mentioned, as a drawback, in parts, the occurrence of summer night-frosts, rendering precarious the cultivation of the less hardy cereals, and vegetables of the more tender gi-owth. In qualification of this remark I may now state, that by a choice of position this evil may be greatly obviated. It will be found that in many localities the low bottoms, too frequently selected for their apparently superior « V .t CLIMATE, AQRICULTUBE, &C. 55 fertility, are subject to these frosts, while the slopes which border them are entirely exempt. For this condition, without wishing ta philosophize, a satisfactory reason may, I think, be given. The cold air, occasioned probably through rapid evaporation suddenly checked at night-fall, with its suspended vapour, descends to the lowest level, displacing the warmer and lighter superficial air below, which in turn ascends the acclivity. I do not question that a due regard to this natural law would, in many parts where summer frosts are found to prevail, save the farmer from frequent disappointment. The fertile bottoms, meanwhile, specially favorable for certain classes of vegetation, should be reserved for these: such as the turnip and other crops that are virtually frost-proof.* The capacities for pasturage of the Central District are very extensive, and of a character unsurpassed, perhaps, in any part of the world. While the valleys, as shown, are fertile for the production of all the cereals and other produce in ordinary cultivation, the hills which bound them, extending on all sides in endless continuity, sparsely dotted with wood in parts, are covered with herbage of the most nutritious description. Along Thompson's River, and throughout the Southern por- * Note P. S. — Visiting the Hudson's Bay Company's post at Edmonton, on the Saskatchewan, at several times between the years 1832 and 1842, I heard constant comphvints that the wheat crops cultivated there were subject to blight from the cause refer- red to in the text. Subsequently, in 1849, when in command at Fort Colvile on the Columbia, Mr. Rowand, the Chief Factor at Edmonton, wrote to me again complaining, and asking for a sup- ply of seed-wheat to replace his own degenerated produce. I ac- cordingly sent a few bushels across the Rocky Mountains by the Autumn Express ; and at the same time mentioned the result of my own then recent experience at Alexandria. Whether owing to this suggestion or not, I am not prepared to say, but a change in the system of culture was subsequently adopted ; for Dr. Rae, to whom I mentioned the subject in Victoria in 1864, partly doubtful of the adaptability of the Upper Saskatchewan for wheat-raising, assured me that, on his recent passage across the Continent, he had witnessed, both at Edmonton and Lake St. Anne in the imme- diate vicinity, crops of the finest wheat, while flour of excellent quality was manufactured yearly. * 1'' r fiO CLIMATE, AORIOULTURE, &C. tions, there is a species of grass, called by the Voyageura Fain Hond, by the Jilnglish settlers Bunch-grass, which is specially noted for its valuable qualities.* The whole tract is well watered — in the intervals between the hUls by frequent stream- lets, in the level depressions by small lakes : while the groves and scattered trees afford a grateful shade by day, at night a shelter. Under this conjunction of favorable circumstances it is not surprising that the herds of cattle, roaming at large in the natural pastures, attain a condition approaching to that of Btall-fed stock. Winter-feeding is in most parts quite unne- cessary ; and it is found that the cattle in early spring, if short of their summer condition, are still in order for the butcher. The Similkameenf beef, for example, when occasionally a herd ia brought to Victoria, excites the attention of epicures by its excellent quahty, and commands always the highest market-price. In such parts, on the other hand, as it may be * The late Mr. Jeffrey, a botanist who visited the Country under the auspices of tne Hudson's Bay Company, employed by the Duke of Buccleuch and other gentlemen to make collections, informed the writer that the grass in question appeared to be the most val- uable for pasture of any he had ever met with. He collected a quantity of the seed, with a view to its propagatiou in Europe ; but it is questionable whether it ^vould thrive in any save the warm dry localities which are its natu.al habitat. It has the peculiarity that it never ceases to grow : thus, however apparently dry the exterior, the heart, shrouded froL\ view, is always green, even in the depth of winter. Poor Jeffrey, it may be added, after wandering, sometimes in company with the writer, through a considerable portion of British Columbia, and braving all its fabulous dangers, met his fate ia New Mexico, in 1852. He was murdered by a Spanish outcast, for his mules and his scanty travelling-appointments. f Similk-ameen — literally Salmon-river — so named by the natives, apparently on the principle of lucus a non lucendo ; for no salmon now frequent it. I am, however, disposed to think that in bygone times it was otherwise, and that the fall or rapid near the mouth, by which their ascent now appears to be prevented, has been not very remotely occasioned through some convulsion of nature. The erection offish-stairs at this point might, I think, be easily effect- ed ; and, this done, the fish might be readily re-introduced : a boon to the settlers along the banks. This river, joining the Okinagan near the Boundary Line, and thence flowing to the Columbia, ■waters a very picturesque valley, affordiug,in parts, fertile lauds for settlement and abundant pasturage. * OLIMATK, AORIOULTURE, &0. 57 found expedient to give occasional assistance to the cattle daring winter, when snow is on the ground, an advantage is indirectly gained : the herds become more domestic in their habits, and are gathered afterwards, when necessary, with less diflSculty. Horses, however, even during the severest winters, require no such aid. Unlike homed cattle, they instinctively scrape through the snow for a subsistence ; and such is the nutritious quality of the herbage that they winter well. In this way the large herd of horses, some two hundred In num- ber, formerly maintained by the Hudson's Bay Company at Alexandria, were constantly kept in that vicinity : and the band at Kamloops, on Thompson's River, including brood- mares and young stock, probably from five to six hundred, in like manner shifted for themselves at all seasons. There are probably now, grazing at large throughout the Central District, under the circumstances I have mentioned, a good many thousands of head of cattle, chiefly of superior breeds. Of these a large proportion belong to permanent set- tlers; the rest to graziers resorting thither from Washington Territory and Oregon, as to a lucrative market, and for facile feeding. The capacities of the Country are, however, so ex- tensive, that the herds at present scattered through it have no appreciable effect upon its resources, beyond the comparatively limited area of their feeding-grounds. It might be supposed that, free to wander as they are, the cattle might gradually become wild and unmanageable, as formerly in California, or as still in the Southern Pampas. I have heard, however, no complaint on this score. By a simple expedient indeed — resorted to formerly at the interior posts, as well as by the Indians for their horses, and practised, I do not doubt, by the modern settlers — the herds can be readily attracted homeward during the summer season. While the hills are free from flies at night, during the heat of the day the animals eagerly seek refuge from their attacks. The smoke from a smouldering fire, maintained near the homestead, readily attracts them ; and, once accustomed, they afterwards habitually resort to it. This, i t: fc S r-' it 58 CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, &C. however trivial the relation may appear, is by no means an unimportant conaideration, for the ulterior effect produced : and thus even the gad-fly, pest though it be, is not without its uses.* On the whole it may be safely affirmed that there exist throughout the region great facilities for rearing cattle on an extended scale, so far only very partially availed of. Sheep thrive well in the Interior, but, so far, no large flocks exist. The paucity of their numbers, indeed, has prevented the establishment of a woollen-factory which was projected about three years ago. The abandonment of this project is to be regretted, as its prosecution wt uld at once have given an impetus to a branch of pastoral industry which, failing a con- venient market for its product, has so far been only partially attended to — and then rather for the butcher than the weaver. There are, however, extensive tracts which I can recall to mind which seem specially adaoted for the pasturing of very extensive flocks. For their sucv'essful nurture, moreover, the dry nature of the uplands, the quality of the pasture, and the * The powerful eflFect exercised upon the migrations of the Rein- deer by a species of this fly ((Estrus Tarandi), and the system con. sequent thereon adopted by the nations of Northern Europe in the management of their domesticated herds, will not escape the notice of the observant reader. The device menti'^ncf i'i the text may be regarded as at least a partial r.dapiaiion of a similar natural cause. The mosqviitoes, on the other hand, execrate them as we may while suffering from their punctures, are presumably not without their direct utility in the order of Nature. I have never been able to discover what the creatures feed upon when a living subject fails them — lor they are always apparently fasting. It may be assumed, at any rate, that these tiny tormentors consume, or absorb in some mysterious way, subtile gases, the result of humidity and decaying vegetation, which might else be noxious to Man. I have alluded to the prevalence of these insects at certain seasons upon the Lower Fraser ; and may add that, though not generally prevalent, they are also found in a minor degree along the wooded water-courses of the Interior. Where they exist they are certainly troublesome at times ; but it may be fairly questioned how far the Country in its unimproved state would be habitable without them — if this be any comfort to the afflicted ; for it is noticeable that when the con- ditions that produce these insects are modified or removed, they vanish with them The further consideration of this abstruse en- quiry, however, I leave to those curious in the arcana of entomol- ogy — and I crave pardon for the digression. CLIMATE, AQRICULTURE, &C. 50 character of the climate, would, as it seems to me, be condu- cive in a peculiar degree.* As regards salubrity of climate there is probably no part of the world that enjoys greater advantages. We are aware of no endemic disease that manifests itself in any part ; and even upon the Lower Fraser, Avhich from its comparative humidity might be supposed favorable to the generation of fevers of the ague type, we know of no single case that has originated there. On the contrary, where the seeds of these troublesome com- plaints have been imported from abroad, their effects have been re-produced, if at all, with less virulence, and the sufferers, we have been informed, have gradually recovered. Of course, as in all other countries, occasional epidemics run their course : but as far as the intrinsic healthiness of the climate, through- out, is concerned, nothing is left to be desired. The warm dry climate of the inland summer, it may be observed, is specially favorable in cases of pulmonary disease : and in a more mark- ed degree as we approach the Southern frontier. Lower down on the Columbia River, beyond the limits of the Province, where the climate is analogous in character, we have known cases of the recovery of consumptive patients, of the most signal nature.f * Note P. S. — An article by a writer in the British Colonist Newspaper has recently appeared, so closely corroborative of some of the foregoing remarks that I gladly reproduce it in the Appen- dix For the encouragement of Agriculture and stock-raising, I may here add, several societies have at different times been organised. Of these there are no^ ave : one in Victoria, another at New Westminster, a third at Saanich, another at Cowitchan, and the last, and most recently commenced, at Clinton in the Central Dis- trict of the Mainland. f I cite two instances, well known to the older residents of the Country. The .(irst, a daughter of the late Josc])h Felix Larocque, Esquire, of Montreal, formerly of the North-West and Hudson's Bay Company, the wife of Mr. William Pion. The second, a then young man, a native of Assineboia, who formerly acted occasion- ally as the writer's body-servant, while travelling on the Lower Columbia. Both of them, reduced apparently to the last degree at Fort Vancouver, were sent to the Upper Country, and recovered n- eo OLIMATX, AOaiOULTURK, &0. To sum tho qualifications of British Columbia as a field for sottlcmcDt, I may succinctly state, that, though it may never become a largo exporter of cereal products, like tho Western States of Amorica or California, it possesses within itself all the requisites for success: and the power to support, in connexion with its varied industries and its external rela- tions, a population, at least of several millions, in ease, hap- piness, and comparative afiluencc. I would fain avoid tho imputation of seeking, possibly, to draw a picture too highly coloured ; but I am free, nevertheless, to state my own per- sonal convictions in all sincerity. I conceive of no country presenting greater solid attractions. The varied climate and capabilities of the several sections, whereby diversity of taste is accommodated ; the general salubrity and proved fertility of tho whole; the magnificent commercial prospects that loom in the not distant future ; and, not least, the genuine home-feeling which impresses every English settler whose lot has hitherto been cast within the Province — all combine to recommend it as a future home for those who, weary of the Old World, are bent on seeking a wider scene for the expansion of their energies, amid " fresh fields and pastures new." with almost miraculous celerity. The lady first named, after the lapse of mauy years, is still, or was recently, living at Colvile, near the Boundary Line ; the second, hale and strong, was after- wards attached to one of the Hudson's Bay Company's parties in the Interior, and his name is now widely known in connexion with a pass in the Rocky Mountains on the line of the projected Northern Pacific Railway — Cadotte's Pass, to wit. TKRM8 OF LAND GRANTS. 01 CHAPTER VIII. Trrms op Land Grants — Roads, &c. — Probable Line throuoh the province of toe canadian pacific Railway — Estimate of Distances compared with OTUER Routes — Notes on Traffic likely to j;.;sue — Advantages of Esquimalt as the great Western Sea-port of tub Dominion — General Remarks. From tuc account given in the preceding Chapter it will be inferred that both the soil and climate of a very large portion ^ British Columbia are highly favorable to encourage settlement. We may now add that vast tracts of luud, and especially of the Central District, lie waiting for the plough. It is of course impossible upon a mere cursory review of the Bubj'-'ct such as this professes to be, to state, even approx- imately, what number of cultivable acres there may possibly be ; but we may safely assert that, in addition to the many farmi^ already scattered along the main lines of communica- tion, ti '^re if immediate room for many thousands more in various iitections, all mo^o or less easily accessible.* The terms upon which the settlement of unoccupied and unsurveytd lands is permitted, are very liberal. Every male person of eighteen years of age or over, being a British sub- * It would be utterly fallacious to attempt to give an estimate of the number of available acres scattered over the broad surface of the mainland of British Columbia. The Country, as before remarked, is capable of supporting its several millions at least. On Vancou- Island, an estimate made by the Surveyor-Generiil gives more than 300,000 acres of good land, known to be available for agriculture; but this estimate refers only to the Districts bordering on the sea, t '' -J southern and eastern shore. Elsewhere, and in il.: '"tprior are doubtless valuable and extensive tracts yet to be developed. Its exhaustless coal-fields are, however, the great feature of Van- couv Island — pointing to it as the future manufacturing empo- rium i the Pacific. Its agricultural claims, though very substan- tial, must be regarded as secondary to thoie of the mainland. 62 TERMS OF LAND GRANTS. ject, born or naturalized, may enjoy the right to pre-empt, under certain stated conditions, a tract not exceeding three hundred and twenty acres in extent, to the northward and eastward of the Cascade Kange of Mountains ; and one hun- dred and sixty acres in extent in other parts of the Province. Personal occupation during a period of four years, (intervals of 'ibsence when necessary being permitted), and improve- Sients to the value of two dollars an'^I fifty cents per acre, are necessary to complete the pre-emptive right. On proof of this, the title is finally issued by the Government, on the payment of such sum, not exceeding one dollar per acre, as may be determined upon by the Governor for the time being. This payment, if required, may be extended; in equal instal- ments, O'l'er a period of four years after the pre-emptive right J5 cstabl'shed, and the necessary surveys made. Power, at the same time, is reserved to the Governor in Council to make such free, or partially free, grants of the unoccupied and unappropriated Crown Lands of the Province, for the encouragement of immigration, or other purposes of public advantage, as may seem advisable. For pastoral purposes very great facilities exist, beyond the limits actually pre-empted. In every part of the Central District extensive ranges of hilly or partially wooded land, rich in the finest pasture, are accessible. These may be re- garded as common-land: but each hondfide pre-emptor is permitted to lease, in the vicinity of his farm, a tract of un- occupied land for pastoral purposes, to which, during his lease, he possesses the exclusive right. Eligible portions of such leased lands, however, are open to pre emption, mean- while, by intending settlers : the lessee, of course, being en- titled to claim a corresponding deduction from the trifling amount of rent he may be required to pay. The upset price of Surveyed Lands, for agricultural pur- poses, is fixed at one dollar per acre ; subject to public sale in lots, at certain intervals, to the highest bidder. All lands remaining unsold after such public exposition, can be ROADS, &C. 63 purchased by private contract from the Government at the upset price. A market is constantly available : on the sea-board through the local demand incident on the various industries of the towns, with the fleet and the mercantile shipping : in the in- terior through the mines. The products of the farm com- mand, consequently, always a remunerative price. Owing to the high rate of wages current for European labour, Indian laborers are largely employed. These can be obtained at a comparatively cheap rate ; and for most pur- poses connected with agriculture and fishing they are very efficient. Being cheerful, obedient, and generally industrious, the services of the young men are of much local value. I have before noticed the principal routes of communica- tion with the Interior, and it seems needless to dwell with minuteness on this point. A brief summary may, however, be given. There is a regular steamer-service twice a week, or oftener when necessary, between Victoria and New West- minster; the running time being about six hours. Thence large ^stern-wheel steamers navigate the Fraser as high as Yale; the ascent occupying a day or more, according to the condition of the water. From Yale there is a weekly mail- service by stages, up to Barkerville, in the heart of the Caribou mining region. Transport along this line of road is performed with waggons drawn by mules or oxen ; relieved, when required, by a steamer which runs from Soda Creek, twenty miles below Alexandria, to Quesnel, forty miles above that point; or some twenty miles higher when necessary. The navigation is then interrupted by a rapid, the ascent of which is not attempted. Above this point there is a clear navigation for steamers for a distance of sixty miles, to with- in twenty miles of Fort George, where another rapid, im- practicable for steamers, occurs. From this point upwards, both by the Stuart and Fraser Lake Branch, and in the di- rection of Tete Jaune's Cache, there are stretches very favor- able for sterm-navigation : but the occasional breaks arc a M ROADS, &C. great drawback. Nevertheless, with the extension of the mining operations these will doubtless in time be made avail- able, in parts, so as to meet the increased demand for tran- sport; and inducements for settlement thus arise in the upper portion of the Province which do not at present exist. The route of access to the mining-region on the heads of the Peace River, known generally as the Omineca Mines, to which I have before casually alluded, has the great advan- tage of shortness of land-travel, and consequently of economy, to persons desiring to proceed thither from Victoria. By this route the first stage is, by steamer to Port Essington, about three days voyage. Thence the Skeena River is as- cended by boat or canoe, as far as the Babine Forks* ; after which the remainder of the distance to the mining locality (estimated at from 180 to 200 miles) is performed partly on foot, partly by water on the intervening lakes. As I have perhaps before remarked, both lines of approach to these mines have their advocates ; and each has in some respect an advantage. For the introduction of live stock it is need- less to say that the route from the Interior is the only one at present used. To the excellent natural roads that traverse the country in most parts, I have already alluded. I may add that liberal appropriations for the improvement of these roads in all di- rections are annually made.f Thus constantly increasing facilities ot access to the main lines of transit are afforded. The completion of these last, as has been remarked, involved a very large outlay, aud bore hardly on the early resources of the Province. Hence it became necessary to impose cer- * Babine (Fr.) A large lip, as of a beast, Ac. The name was applied by the early voyageurs to the Ta-cully of the Nuta-pnnkat (Babine Lake) on account of their having adopted the custom of the tribes of the Coast immediately adjacent, of inserting a wooden appendage into the lower lip of the females. •}■ Note P.S. — Since the above was written an excellent stage-road has been opened from near the mouth of the Thompson to Osooyooa on the Okinagan — a distance of some 200 miles, as travelled. A weekly line of stages is now running on this route. 1 J t w SI v St PROBABLE LINE OF CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 65 id. red jes ler- cat of bad )oa tain Road Tolls from which a considerable revenue was annually collected. The improved financial condition of the Province, however, since the Confederation with the Domin- ion, has enabled the Government, during the recent session of the Legislature, to repeal this tax : and all the communi- cations are now entirely free. By the terms agreed upon on the admission of British Columbia into the Canadian Confederation, the Government of the Dominion undertakes, among other things, to construct a Railway from CanjuJu to the Pacific, through British Co- lumbia, within a period of ten years,* In July of 1871, almost simultaneously with the proclamation of our new political relations, the surveys were vigorously commenced on the Pacific water-shed, in connexion with those already in progress on the Eastern slopes. It would be vain to augur, by anticipation, how soon the great work in question may be accomplished ; or to speculate on the unforeseen facilities for its completion which will probably be found to exist. It may, however, be permitted to indicate generally the line, up to a certain point, which the road will probably follow, from the Saskatchewan westward. Leaving that river near Fort Edmonton, a line of country bordering on the divide between the Saskatchewan and the Athabasca, presenting no engineering difficulties of moment, is available up to the Rocky Mountains. Entering the Pass at Jasper's House, the line then diverges up Mictte's River, across the height of land, and down the Fraser to the vicinity of JMoose Lake or Tete Jaune's Cache, before noticed. Thence by the heads of the Cranberry Fork, and down the North Branch of the Thompson. It is of course impossible to predict the conclusion at which the engineers may arrive after a full survey of the several passes shall have been elfected : but'some of the ad- vantages possessed by the route in qucstiuu may be briefly stated. * .*^ee Appendix L. — Terms of rsiion. mmm W l-.HOBABLB LINfl OF OANADIAIf PACIFIC RAILWAY. The Pass by the heads of the Miette * and the Fraser is 80 gradual of ascent, with so fe^v obstacles worthy of consid- eration, that it may be characterized almost as a natural road. Its shortness and directness with regard to the probable ter- minus on the Pacific Coast, give it moreover an advantage over any other line of approach : and although the depth of snow at the summit, during winter, is much greater than I liave seen gravely stated, there is far less than by any other Pass with which I am acquainted, either from personal ob- servation or report. The snow, too, through the effects of certain natural phenomena which here prevail, and for which I do not profess to account, becomes more compacted, conse- quently does not drift in an equal degree, and is therefore in all respects more manageable than elsewhere. The impor- tance of this consideration is material; bearing in mind that the stoppages ujion the Union Pacific Railway during the past winter arose chiefly from drift. It is a curious fact that, in the valley of the Athabasca, upon this line of transit, for a distmico of thirty miles or more both above and below Jasper's liuuse, the snow never accumulates. There is constant grass : and the large herds of horses formerly kept there by the Hudson's Bay Company, for transport over tlif mountains, wintered there, fat, upon the natural pasture. Crossing by this l*ii?s many years ago> on his way from the Saskatchewan, the writer found, in the month of January during a winter of almost unexampled severity, that the snow had entirely disappeared from the immediate banks of the river, at the mouth of the Cranberry ■* Some of these mimes are destined to be perpetuated, and in any future account of the Province it might be well to i\iitice thera. Miette, for example, known in his time as the " r>un-homme Miette," whose name this river bears, was an old vujageur of the North-west Company, who first ascended the .stream on a trapping-tour. Tiiere is a conspicuous rock near Jasper's House — forming, as it were, with the opposite hills, the portal of tlie pass — which likewise bears his name. Jasper Klyne •was a post-master of tlie Hudson's Bay Company, long in charge of the little outpost (now abandoned) called after him. A Swiss, T tielicvo, of PcMeuron's Corps, brought out to Red River by Lord l^ulkirk, is 18U or thvrMbomt. iiHi the d in to tbe old tbe near , tbe :iyne arge iss, Lord PftOBAlJLK LiriE OF OAPTAWAK PACIFIC RAILWAY. C7 Fork, near TCte Jaune's Cache; and, for a distance of some forty miles down the Frascr, the ice was perfectly denuded of snow. A warm wind prevailed, accompanied at intervals by a gentle rain. It could only be inferred that this wanii current, extending through the Pass, exercised a modifying influence there ; and, spreading afterwards through tlio Jasper's Valley, produced the effects noted. As these effects, however, are known to be constant in the latter named local- ity, we way infer that the same cause is likewise constant. I may remark, passingly, that similar effects are also pro- duced in a marked degree in other parts of British Columbia: but, as before mentioned, I do not profess to account for these phenomena in all their bearings. Such conclusions could be arrived at only after minute and protracted observa- tion; and are beyond the scope of the passing traveller, bent on penetrating through the wilderness, and eager to get home.* The point at which the projected Railway will be made to strike the Coast, is still a pn)blem to bo sulvcd. Bute Inlet, north of Nauaimo, is the most eligible, provided it shall bo found practicable to bridge the Narrows of Johnstone's Strait, and thus continue the line to JOsquimalt. Otherwise a point further South, perhaps Jiurrard's Inlet, will probably be selected ; with a steam ferry to Nanaimo, and thence agaia by rail to J']s({uiniult, — the great natural termiuus which it is indispeu.sablc to attain. In any case the line, after descend- ing the North Bninch of the Thompson (assuming the routo by Jasper's to be the one preferred) will have to diverge to the westward, and approach the Eraser through some of the depressions near Bridge Creek. It is bootless, however, to anticipate that which the surveys now in progress will sooa decide. On the whole it has been matle apparent, by the explora- tions already offectod, that the difficulties in the way of ac- complishing the grand" national object in view, are far loss * Se« Not«— Appendix 7-1. 68 PROBABLE LINB OF CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. than were expected. Henoo, with the vigorous determina- tion to proceed that has been manifested, we may regard the undertaking as in i liir way for sprody accomplishment. Its future ufl'ects in a iiational point of view, and especially the influence it is destined to exercise on the immediate interests of this Province, might well be left to the imagina- tion of the reader; nevertheless, I may hazard a few remarks, which, if superfluous as regards some, may not be without interest for many. An undertaking of this nature is not, of course, to be re- garded from a merely local point of view : its successful completion involv(!s the future commercial interests, not only of England in particular, but of other nations also. 1 think it is in the work of Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle that the route is significantly termed the "True North-West Pas- sage;" just as the Suez Canal may be designated that of the South-east ; and as such, in its general relations, we will regard it. It is, however, with reference to Great Britain alone that I shall consider the subject, albeit imperfectly. Our active and enterprising competitors for commercial su- premacy, the United States, have already, for three years past, had a line in full operation to San Francisco; of which the signal success presents noteworthy encouragement for other enterprises of a similar nature. As far back as 18G0, however, as appears by a pamphlet which lies before me,* while yet this success as a pecuniary question was problem- atic, a second over-land Railway, called the Northern Pacific, was projected; the proposed terminus of which, in Washing- ton Territory — still I believe undecided — was either at Seattle on Admiralty Inlet, or Olympia at the head of Puget Sound, distant respectively about 85 and 150 miles above Esquimalt, the proposed Canadian terminus, on Fuca's Strait. The last- named enterprise, however, though not formally abandoned, * Nortbern Pacific Railway. Memorial, Correspondence, and Report of Engineer in Chief. Washingtcn, 1868. Other competi- tive Railways through California have s^iucc been projected, which it ii uQD««««»«ry to Dotic« b«re. > * laud jeli- licb BSTIMATS OF DISTANOES. 69 has not apparently been, so far, prosecuted with the wonted energy of our neighbours. Last in the field is that of which we now specially treat — the Canadian Pacific Railway. I subjoin a comparative statement of the distances by these several routes, compiled chiefly from a pamphlet by the late Mr. Alfred Waddington,* and that before alluded to. I have not, I may add, attempted to verify the estimates in either, but accept both as nearly correct : — New York to San Francisco (Railway in operation). Distance from New York, by Chicago, to Omaba on the Missouri 1,531 miles. From Omaha to San Francisco, about 1,830 English miles 3,361 Northern Pacific Railway (projected). From New York to Superior City, on Lake Supe- rior, about 1,500 To Judith Mountains, Long. 109° W 895 To Columbia River, above Walla Walla 660 To Seattle or Olympia, on Puget Sound, about 220 1,775 English miles 3,276 Canadian Pacilie Railway (projoctcd). From Montreal to Ottawa, via the Ottawa River 115 From Ottawa to Bute Inlet, about 2,885 3,000 Head of Bute Inlet to Ksquimalt, 85 miles nearer to the Ocean than Seattle, about 200 English miles 3,200 With reference to the commerce of the East — if it be not paradoxical to term that the East, which we are now approach- ing from the contrary direction — the following considerations may be noted. Assuming Yokohama, in Japan, for a starting point, the direct distance to Esquimalt may be taken, in round numbers, at about 4,200 geographical miles ; equal to about a month's voyage of a sailing vessel. f Canton is pro- * Overland Route through British North America, by Alfred Waddington. London, 1868. f The Flying Squadron, reaching Esquimalt in May, 1870, per- formed the voyage, under sail, in 26 days — but this wag regarded ■' 1 70 ■flTIMATB or UISTAUCM. bably about a fortnight farther, in point of time. Measured across the map, San Franci.sco may be regarded as equidis- tant. Tlie actual distance necessary to be traversed by a Bailing vessel in order to reach that port is, however, consid- Qfably greater; as will appear from the following remarks which I find quoted from a recognised authority of the high- est standing — Professor jMaury, of Washington. " The trade " winds place Vancouver Island on the wayside of the road *' from China and Japan to San Francisco so completely, that "a sailing vessel trading under canvas to the latter place, " would take the same nmte as if she were bound for A^1ncou- ''vcr Island. So that all return cargoes would naturally come " there in order to save two or three weeks, besides risk and "expense." Hence it is munil'est (hat the Canadian Pacific Railway, terminating at Esquimalt — and in a minor degree the projected Northern Pacific Kaihvay, owing to the perver- sities of the inland navigation necessary to reach its proposed terminus — would possess a great advantage over the line, now in operation, from San Francisco to Xew York. The last-named port, moreover — about equidistant from Liverpool or liOndon with ^Montreal — is considerably farther than Halifax, to which point it would be necessary to extend the transport during the period of closed-navigation of the St. Lawrence. This necessity would involve a i'urtlier laud- transport of 482 miles, by the Intercolonial Railway now in operation: but then the shipping point on the Atlantic would be some five hundred miles nearer to England than is New York. Hence it is obvious that the route now under process of survey, if the f)V(r,oing estimates be nearly correct, pre- sents the advantage, as from China to England, of some seven hundred miles over the projected Northern Pacific Railway ; and, under the consideration advanced by Profes- sor Maury, of more than a thousand over the present route by San Francisco. ns an unusually short voyar;e. Probably tVoni 30 to 35 days might be consiilcreil a I'uir ruu. lu couiiexiou with thid subject see Note — Appeaiii n-2. NOTF.S OH TRAFFIC LIKKLT TO EN9UB. 71 As a pecuniary investment the Central, or Union, Pacific Railway has been so far very successful, as will appear by the following stateni' nf I.ssucd by the Company, which I extract from a late number of the San Francisco Bulletin: — " Official Statement of business for the three fiscal years, ending April 30, 1872. ' 180,0-70 1870-71 1871-72 Gross earnings $8,364,593 $7,333,001 $7,679,753 Expenses 5,707,099 3,808,704 4,002,914 Net earnings $2,507,494 $3,435,257 $3,616,839" The sources of the above income are, the sale of land- grants along the line, and the enormous traffic, local and from abroad, that has^ been developed. The outlay is incur- red by payment of current interest on Bonds, and running expenses.* When first the project of constructing a line across the Continciit to San Francisco was mooted, sceptical vaticinators augured that it would, at best, be available for the transport of the lightest and most costly description of goods, only. To show how groundless these anticipations have proved, I subjoin a memorandum of the receipts on two successive days of the present season, casually quoted in a recent number of the Wceklij Bulletin, abo^e referred to. '' The receipts of freight " by railroad yesterday included 2 cars of Agricultural Im- '•' plements ; 200 cases Alcohol ; 18 cases Boots ; 1 car, and "54 packages Bacon ; 40 packages Eggs; 74 tierces Hams; " 906 cases Cheese ; 97 boxes Lard ; 85 kits Mackarel ; 10 " barrels Neats-foot Oil ; 35 barrels Lard Oil ; 907 bundles "Paper; 44 barrels Pork; 1 ear Shovels; 488 cases and 65 " packages Tobacco ; 48 barrels Whiskey ; and 040 bundles " Wire." Again : " The receipts of freight by railroad yes- " terday included 1 car Bacon; 155 cases Boots; 10 cases "Cheese; 10 packages Cordage; 24 bundles Iron Tube."; * Supplementary to tlie above pfatcinont tlie cstiinnted gross in- come for May is given at $812,000. The actual earnings for the preTious mouth wers $724,446. lit % ■' 72 ADVAIfTAOES OF E8QUIMAT.T AS THE WRSTERIf SEAPORT. " 34 bundles Iron ; 6 packages Leather; 2 Pianos; and 055' *' packagos Tobarco." The relurn-freights from San Francisco aro of varied char- acter ; including fresh fruits, flour, wines, and other articles, the product of California; and entire cargoes of Teas and other merchandise from China and Japan. British Columbia affords her quota of patronage in both directions ; and recently, I am informed, the Hudson's Bay Company forwarded from Victoria to San Francisco a number of casks of valuable Furs, for transmission thence, overland and by steamer, to London ; at most a three-weeks passage. I shall not, I trust, be suspected of arguing from a purely local stand-point, when I indicate briefly some of the advan- tages which Esquimalt presents as the future terminus of the Dominion Railway. The feasibility of bridging the Narrows opposite to Bute Inlet is, as I have remai'ked, still undecided:* otherwise the question would be one simply of cost ; which, all other considerations admitted, would be of inferior moment. But, whether by bridging here, or with the intervention of a ferry from some other point, it is neoessiiry to the full measure of future success that the line .should be continued to the ex- treme limit I have named. Lying immediately within the broad Estuary of De Fuca's Strait, Esquimalt seems destined by Nature as the future emporium of a vast commerce. Its splendid harbour is at all times readily accessible from sea- ward ; and, with a light-house which stands some ten miles westward, and another which, like the Pharos of another Alexandria, indicates the immediate entrance, it may be securely approached and entered at any hour, by day or night. It is not, however, upon this ground alone that the position is * In a. former chapter I have mentioned tliat the channel at thi3 point does not exceed a few thousand yards in breadth — the exact measurement I have not at hand. It is here, however, necessary to explain that a large island, called Valdez Island, separates the whole channel into two parts, each of which is narrowed, at points lying diagonally to each other, to very small dimensions. The depth of the water, and the strong effects of the tides, appear to be the chief engineering difficultiea to be encouatered. OSMKaAL SEMARKS. 78 fonnded. Above Esqiiimalt the navigation, though still good, is rendered more uncertain through the effect of cress-tides and baffling winds ; and especially to reach a comparatively remote point like Bute Inlet. This difficulty, it will be sug- gested, might be overcome, with a certain outlay, by the em- ployment of tug-boats : but there is another incidental diffi- culty, prolific of delay, against whicii it is impossible to provide. This is the occasional interruption of the inland navigation with large craft, at times bv dense 3moke from forest-fires, at times by fog, and sometimes by the combined effects of both. The autumn, chiefly, is the season when these impediments might be anticipated : and under the circumstances mentioned, serious delays might occasionally occur to the shipping, which, the terminus being at Esquimalt, would be avoided. As regards the speedy completion of the work that has been undertaken, a few words may be said. I am aware that there are some who, whether really sceptical or not, profess to doubt either the power or the inducement to carry it through. In the uncertainty of these doubters I do not share. With a line devoid for the most part of engineering difficulties, traversing, with few interruptions, a region conspicuous for its fertility and its pastoral advantages, and fringing elsewhere a tract teeming with mineral riches, the local inducements are surely great : and beyond thewe are the wide commercial interests which I have feebly endeavoured to indicate. Up to a certain period, indeed, many, and myself among the number, ques- tioned the probability of the enterprise being seriously con- sidered for many years : but the declaration of the Terms of Union, and the prompt and energetic action of the Dominion Government since, in fulfilment of their engagements, preclude the question of doubt. To repeat it, then, is to question the good faith of the Administration : a mark of disrespect, or want of confidence which, by its liberal and manly treatment of the Province, it has not certainly deserved. The preliminary surveys completed, and *,he line decided, active operations will be oommenced simultaneously at both ends : and all augury Hal 74 aiNERAL RSMAJIKS. iH fallacious if the grand undertaking be not Boon an accom- plished fact. To Mr. Alfred Waddington, I may add, from whose pamphlet I have quoted, and whose acipiaintance I en- joyed in Victoria, is due, not indeed the conception, but cer- tainly the earnest advocacy of this important national work. Through him the project was first introduced in a tangible form to the British public ; to its furtherance the whole ener- gies of his latter years were devoted ; and it was while thus engaged that he recently died at Ottawa — I believe of small- pox. The death of thii worthy gentleman, while the pet pro- ject of his life was still in embryo, created much sympathy in Victoria, as elsewhere : and I do not resist the opportunity which I now have, of paying at least this passing tribute to his memory. Before leaving this topic I ought not to omit to notice an incidental advantage which the route I have indicated across the Rocky Mountains possesses over all the rest, and of which the importance does not at first appear. It is the freedom from all danger of Indian molestation. In conversation, not long ago, with Sir James Douglas, the former Governor of the Colony, whose great local knowledge and sound judgment in these matters it is needless to dwell upon, I drew his attention to this point, and he agreed with me in ascribing to it very great weight. Crossing the Saskatchewan at Carlton, the line would 2^'^*^*^ througli a country occupied by the Crees — a friendly and inoffensive tribe. Leaving the Cree tract near Edmonton, and proceeding towards Jasper's, a few scattered families of Strong-wood Assineboines alone wander over the country — poor, harmless, and hospitable, whose sole care i.s to hunt and live. West of the Pas.s, by the heads of the North Branch of the Thompson, some scattered Shew-shwaps hunt and fish for a livelihood. To reach the Southern Passes, on the other hand, it is necessary to pass through a tract frequented by the roving tribes of the broad Prairie, including those Arabs of the West, the Blackfeet. It does not indeed follow that collision with these must neceesa- POUTICAL 00N8TITUTI05. 76 rily ensue : but the risk is there ; and it might involve, in time, the necessity of maintaining a permanent military force to guard agirinst attack; jtist as the United States Government is compelled, under similar circumstances, to do, for the safety of travellers by the Southern Railway . CHAPTER IX. Political Constitution — Schools — Churches, Scg. — Postal Service — TEiEORArns — Mechanics' Insti- tutes, &C. — NeWSPAI'ERS — liANKS — POPULATION — Indians — General Ukmarks on Gold Minino — Min- eral Riches — Coal-Mimnci, kc. — General Remarks on the ATTRACTIONS 01' THE PROVINCE AS A FIELD FOR Settlement. The Government of Bi'itish Columbia, an of the other Pro- vinces provided for wider the " British North America Act, 18G7," is administered by a Lieutenant-Governor, appointed by the Governor-General of Canada. The gentleman now filling this important position is the TJonorable Joseph W. Trutch, formerly Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works in the ci-devant Colony. The responsible advisers of the Lieiitenant-Goveinor are three in number ; occupying respectively the offices of Provin- cial Secretary, Attorney-General, and Chief Commissioner i f Lands and Works. Provision is made by the Constitution of the Province that the number may, if found advisable, be in- creased to five. The Legislature is composed of a single House, styled the Legislative Assembly, and consisting of twenty-five members returned by twelve Electoral Districts, as under ; viz. : — On S0ROOL8. Vancouver Island : Victoria City, 4 ; Victoria District, 2 ; Esquimalt, 2 ; Cowitchan, 2 ; Nanaimo, 1 ; Comox, 1. On the Mainland : New Westminster City, 1 ; New Westminster District, 2 ; Yale District, 3 ; Lillooet, 2 ; Caribou District, 3 ; Kootftnais District, 2. The expenses of the members during the session of the Legislature are paid by the Province ; and there is an allowance for travelling expenses to and fro. The franchise, confined to British subjects, born or natural- ized, is so liberal as to be almost equivalent to manhood suff- rage. The elections are for four years : the voting done by open poll. Foreign residents may acquire all the rights of British sub- jects, within the Province, through a very simple and inex- pensive process of naturalization. The Province returns six members to the House of Com- mons at Ottawa; and three Senators are appointed by the Governor-General to the Upper House. The expenses of these Representatives are defrayed by the Dominion. The only direct general tax levied in the Province is for the maintenance of Roads, and is expended within the Districts where levied. This tax Is 5n annual poll-tax of two dollars each on every male resijent above eighteen years of age. In addition the owners of land are charged, for the same purpose, four cents per acre on their land, beyond the limit of 1 acres. A well-devised law for establishing free Schools, unsectarian in character, throughout the Province, is now in force. A Superintendent of Education has been appointed under the Act ; and a Board of Education, consisting of six members, holds its sittings in Victoria. Local details are superintended by Trustees, elected in each School District. As will be seen by reference to the Appendix, liberal allowance has been made in the Estimates (since voted") for carrying out the pro- visions of this important law. Among other definitions of the duties of the Board of Education under the recent Act, is the following, embodying a provision of great prospective impor- tance : "Jo establish a High School in any District wher« OHUROH£S, &C. 77 " they may find it expedient so to do, wherein the classics, "mathematics, and higher branches of Education shall be " taught ; and such school shall be subject to the same obliga- " tions and regulationb as other Public Schools generally." For private education Victoria affords good facilities : for boys, the Collegiate School ; for girls, the Angela College. Both these schools are under the visitorship of the Episcopa- Kan Bishop of the Diocese, the Right Reverend Dr. Hills. There are besides other good schools for pupils of both sexes ; noteworthy among which is the excellent establishment con- ducted by the respected Sisterhood of St. Anne. In Victoria there are two Episcopalian Churches— tlic Cathedral of Christ Church, and St. John's ; aad there is a third at Esquimalt. The Wesleyan community have a well- built church, which it has been found necessary recently to enlarge. The Presbyterian congregation likewise have a very neat church. The Roman Catholics have two commodious churches , the Bishopric of that communion, however, conse- quently on the death of the late highly respected Bishop, the Right Reverend Mgr. Demers, being at present vacant. In addition to these places of Christian worship, there is the Jewish synagogue, a substantial edifice of brick. New Westminster is the residence of an Archdeacon, the Reverend C T. Woods ; and its church has the enviable distinction of possessing the only set of bells in the Province ; a fine peal, presented to the congregation by the same amiable Christian lady whose name I have had occasion -^h vidy several times to mention — the present Baroness Cnutt. . Elsewhere in the various Districts, where congre^i; 'ions can be assembled, there are established facilities for public worshij), and small churches have been built here and there ; in other parts, necessarily, it is only by occasional visits, at stated intervals, that the re- ligious wants of the community are met.* The Judicature of the Province is composed of a Chief Justice, and, at present, one Puisne Judge — a second one, it * Ho<*i»itBl» ••« Aj>i)«udix W. 78 POSTAL SERVICE — TELEGRAPHS — NEWSPAPERS. is understood, to be shortly appointed. At Victoria and other principal stations there are Stipendiary Magistrates, who act also as Judges of the County Courts : in other parts order is maintained by Honorary Justices of the Peace. The vigilance of the Magistracy, and the salutary rigour of the Judges, have repressed that tendency to violence and crime which is assumod, however erroneously, to be inseparable from young communities such as this. In brief, the laws are here as vigorously administered, and there is as much security for life, limb, and property, as in the oldest Provin- ces of the Dominion — and tbis, if my meaning be duly ap- prehended, is saying not a little -^n the question of law and order. The Postal Service of the Province is now entirely in the hands of the General Government of the Dominion; and whatever deficiency may exist in the details of the system as lately re-organizcd, will shortly be remedied. A special Agent, it is understood, is now on the way from Ottawa to place these matters on an unexceptionable footing. At present there is a direct mail from Europe and Canada, by way of San Francisco, twice a month ; reaching the latter place by railway, and brought thence to Victoria by a subsidized steamer. There is also an overland mail twice a week from San Francisco to Olympia, on Puget Sound, by which letters are, under the present jirrangoments, less regularly brought. From Victoria there is a mail-service twice a week to New Westminster; and once a woek to all other parts of the Pro- vince, upon the regular lines of comniunicaiion. The rates of postage will appear in the Appendix. There is constant telegraphic commuiiication between Europe and Victoria, by way of New York and San Francisco. The line, which crosses the southern part of the Gulf of Georgia to Victoria by a submerged cable, has a branch ex- tending to the verge of the Caribou region. Victoria supports two daily newspapers, the Britlnh Colo- nist and the Standard, which also reappear in a weekly form. mechanics' institutes — BANKS — POPULATION. 79 New Westminster has likewise two, the Dominion Pacific Herald and the Mainland Guardian. The Upper Country boasts of ouc; a useful publication, called the Caribou Sentinel. At Victoria and several other of the towns, Mechanics' Institutes and Reading lloonis have been established. At these, besides the standard collection of books that has been accumulated, the latest European and American periodicals, with the principal newspapers from abroad, can always be perused. There arc three principal Ranks in Victoria, with branches elsewhere : the Bank of British North America, the Bank of British Columbia, and Wells, Fargo, & Co. — the last an American firm, too widely known on this Continent to re- quire more than mention. In addition to their bunking business the last-named carry on an Express Agency, rami- i'yii'i; throughout Christendom. Through their means the most imp: i n-t business may be transacted: and any arti- cle of use r M xury, from a piano probably to a penny whis- tle, can be readily obtained. This .institution, originating in the early necessities of the California Mines, has been of marked utility and success : and there are probably few dwellers upon the Pacific Coast who have not been at some time indebted to the care or the courtesy of the Agents of Wells, Fargo's Express. The several Banks allow interest on time-depof'its of three months or upwards. In addition to the private Banks there is a public Savings Bank, of great utility in its way. The population of British Columbia, owing to the fluctua- tions ul' juining success, has varied much. At no time very large, it does not now probably exceed twelve thousand Europeans, of whom one-half reside in Victoiia and its im- mediate environs. The permanent inhabitants of the city, by a census of 1870, amounted to 4,20^, in the proportion of 2,528 males to 1,080 females. No reliable census of the whol« Province, however, exists, so that any estimate made I 80 INDIANS. can be merely an approximation. With the recently im- proved prospects of the country, it is needless to say that immigration is attain setting in j and it is noticeable that former residents, who had left under discouragements real or fancied, are now eagerly returning. The Indian population, on the other hand, is numerous j and as the Indians are producers as well as consumers, they form an important element in the consideration of the com- mercial relations of the Province. For the rest, it may be remarked that they are strictly under the law; and that, with the appliances at command, no difficulty is experienced in exacting obedience. In saying that the native population is numerous T ought to confine the remark to the immediate vicinity of the Coast. In the interior they are comparatively few, and sparsely distributed. In many points, too, the Indians of the interior are far more engaging in character than those of the sea-board. These last, however, are of a more ingenious turn. They excel in many simple manu- factures, and are not a little advanced in divers mechanical arts. I was shown, for instance, by a gentleman in Victoria, a fine meerschaum pipe, which, having been acciden*;ally damaged, had been entiusted for repair to an Indian workman. Beat- ing out a gold-coin he had remounted the article with a skill comparable with that of the most practised goldsmith. It has already been mentioned that the services of the young men among the natives are turned to good account in agri- cultural and other pursuits. I may add that, beyond this, little has been done for their improvement, save through the efforts of private individuals, at-d the exertions of the Missionaries of various denominations who are in the field. The Government has been unpardonably supine: and it is gratifying to know that, under the new political relations of the Province, the care of this branch of the population de- volves upon the Dominion; and that a sound- system of Indian policy will soon be organized, from which the most beneficial results may be anticipated. OE^IERAL REMARKS ON QOLD-MININO. 81 The miniftg interests of Briti&h Columbia are af teo great importance to be treated of summarily in a brief trcatiso such as this. A reference to the Appendix will &how, how- ever, the large recorded export of GoU {otaiany years past:* but so much is conveyed away by private haad that the real product of the mines, of course, cannot be ascertained. The writer has no practical knowledge of the subject of mining, and he is averse to give currency to reports of tbc richness of this locality or of that; which, however apparently well founded, too often prove fallacious. Large fortunes have been made, and large fortunes will continue still to be occa- sionally made, in this exciting pursuit, within the procinfts of the Province : but while some have thus become rich, others have only been comparatively lucky, while other» again have failed almost entirely of success. He cannot^ however, do better than quote on this subject the following excellent remarks, which he finds in a Jlcport of Lieut. H. Spencer Palmer, of the Royal Engineers, dated 21st Febru- ary, 18G3; and which, notwithstanding the lapse of tirae^ may be regarded as still generally applicable. " The general tendency of the auriferous ranges through- " out the Colony leads to the conjecture that the future ex- "plorations will discover an almost unbroken continuation of " rich deposits maintaining a north-north-westerly direction, "and occupying a lar^e portion of the great elbow of the " Eraser Iliver. " Caribou is closely packed with mountains of considerable " altitude, singularly tumbled and irregular in character, and "presenting steep and thickly wooded slopes. Here and " there tremendous masses, whose summits are from (5.000 " to 7,000 feet above the sea, tower above tlie general Icvel^ " and form centres of radiation for subordinate ranges. This " mountain system is drained by innumerable streams, of * Amounting, for tl>e hist fourteen yeiirs, to between 21 ai>d 22; millions of (lollius in the iigQ;rej?i;te — showing an average exceed- ing one und .a luilf uiillion yearly, e.\clii.?ive of the large aniottuts that have escaped record. S-ee Appendix F. 82 GENERAL REMARKJ ON QOLD-MININO. every size from large brooks to tiny rivulets, known re- ' spectively in mining phraseology as " creeks " and "gulcli- ' es," which run in every imaginable direction of the cora- ' pass, and, winding among the valleys and gorges, discharge themselves into the larger slreams or "rivers" which at ' length conduct their waters to the Fraser.***********"^** ' The most remunerating mining is generally found near the • head waters of the creeks, in close proximity to the mouu- ' tain clusters, which seem to be the great centres of wealth; '• and thus some of the less attractive diggings on the rivers • and on the lower parts of the creeks have as yet scarcely *• The gold of Caribou is not easily attainable, and a know- ledge of practical mining, shafting, tunnelling, and drift- ing, is necessary to those who wish to work to advantage, ' The richest deposits are found in the existing and in the ' old channels of the creeks down close to the rocks ?m situ, '■ called in mining language " bed-rocks," which in Caribou " I should be trespassing beyond my province were I to ' attempt to describe the mechanical methods by which the • gold is extracted from the earth, or to furnish statistics of ' the populations and yields of the various mining creeks. •' l>ut I beg permission to contribute my testimony to the ■ extraordinary auriferous wealth of Caribou, and, in very 'few words, to clear up a point upon which an uninitiated 'person is likely to be misled, viz. : the nominal yield of a '< claim.'" " A miner's claim occupies a piece of ground 100 feet ' square. When a creek has ' prospected ' well, it is usual ' for miners to form themselves into companies of from four 'to eight, or upwards, to take up their claims (for each man ' 100 feet square) in proximity to one another, and to work the whole ground thus claimed for the benefit of the com- pany. If rich * pay-dirt ' be struck, and the mine be in a sufficiently advanced state, 4tra)panies, anxious to obtain MINERAL RICHES. 83 " the greatest p6ssiblo quantity of gold in the shortest possi- " ble space of time, will frequently employ additional work- " ing-liands, and work during the whole 24 hours. Tl.e " wages given last season were £2 sterling for the day of " twelve hours. ]?y these means extraordinary yields aro " sometimes obtained, and instances were known last autumn *' of as much as 250 oz (about £800 sterling), or even more, " being ' washed up ' by some of the richest companies ou " Williams Creek, as the result of 24 hours' labour. Thus, " although this sum, subject to deductions for hired assist- " ance, was divided among the four, six, or eight lucky pro- " priotors, as the case might be, it must be remembered that " it was due to the labours of double the number of men, and '•' that the dividend thus declared should not, in such in- " stances as these, be taken as indicating the direct result of '' one man's work. Cases occur of rich ' pockets * of gold " being struck, and incredible sums being rapidly extracted " by simple means and at no extra expense ; these are ex- " ceptions."* The chief mining localities outside T Caribou are, at Big- bend, above the Arrow Lakes on the Columbia River ; the Kootunais mines, on the tributary of the Columbia of that name; and on the Peace River. There are besides inferior "diggings," occupied chiefly by Chinese and others who, like them, are content with minor profits, where by patient industry a moderate competence is obtained. To such, how- over, as desire to try for higher prizes a wide field is open ; and, without committing myself to any assertion as to the richness of any special locality, I may safely state the conviction, which I share with many others — that the mine- ral gold-wealth of the Province has yet been but very \ ar- tially exposed. Meanwhile the introduction of machinery, with the aid of capital and engineering skill, promises to and though the individual effect soon a very great change * Report of Li^aienant H. Spencer Palmer R. E., to Col. Moody, R, E., Cbief Gommissioner of Lauds aud Works. 21st Feb., 1863. 84 COAL-MINII»a. &C. miner will still continue, as before, to share the hazards of fortune, the great prizes will, as elsewhere, fall to the over- powering combination. As regards the other mineral riclics of the Province the command of capital, beyond any that is locally available, seems to bo indispensable for their development. Rich eopper-Ieads abound along the Coast. A few years- ago per- haps a dozen enterprises, for working as many seams, were act on foot: but, as might have been foreseen, they all failed from the cause indicat.'d. Possibly, had all these scattered endeavours been concentrated, a better result might have been obtained. As it was, the scanty resources of each were frittered away — in some case;* through sheer ignorance and mismanagement: and the c*»nclusion bf^camc apparent, that without the assistance of ca^«ital from abroad and the employ- aaent of competent conductors, it was vain to persist. So with certain silver-loads — sufficiently rich it is believed, to reward richly the investment of money, but for which confi- dence has not so flir been secured. The Geological Survey ©f the Province which has been undertaken by the Canadian Government, and is now in progress, will doubtless reveal more conspicuously the existence of these latent treasures ; and we may trust therefore that the day is approaching when this great source of wealth will no longer be neglected. The returns given in the Appendix will show that the Coal-mines of Vancouver Island are more favourably circum- stanced. The oldest mine at Nanaimo, commenced by the Hudson's Bay Company, has for the last twelve years been the property of an English Company, bo.iring the name of the Vancouver Coal Company, who share a handsome an- nual dividend for their investment. There are two other Klines in the same vicinity : one of these, the Ilarcwood, owned also by English capitalists, is not at present worked;, the other, the Duns7nin'r, is in its infancy, but promises to \e very successful There is also a fine seam of coal, requir- ing, only capital for its working; at Bayues' Souud, near COAL-MTNINO, Xc. «5 Oomox ; besides that at the north end of the Island, anl another of Antliracite on Qucon Charlotte's, to which I have previously alluded. In the event of a future treaty of Reci- procity with the United States, in which all the Provinces of the Dominion would of course share, the dem md for Coal from Vancouver Island will receive a groat imj.Gtus. S < far as can 1)0 discovered there is no coal of quality at all comparable with it elsewhere on the Coast : so that wore the present restric- tions upon its importation removed, it would take a more prominent place in the San Francisco market than it at pre- sent occupies.* In 18G9 an Ordinance was issued, the declared object d which is " to develop the resources of the Colony by aifording '* facilities for the effectual working of Silver, Lead, Tin, Cop- " per, Coal, and other Minerals, other than Gold" — the last being specially provi ed for in a separate Ordinance. Under the provisions of the Act in question, it is in the power of any person, or association of persons, to seek for any of the minerals enumerated, imder special licence over a given space-; an'\ if successful in their object, to obtain a Crown grant of the locality, under conditions named. It "is imder this Act that Mr. Dunsmuir, who I believe was originally an Overseer or Foreman in the employment of the Vancouver Coal Company, and some others, have establisl>ed their right to what will soon become, if not a! eady, a very valuable property. Confining ourselves to the consideration of Coal, and without going int© minute particu'ars, the chief requisites may be succinctly stated. 1. A " Prospecting Licence^' is first obtained, 'on applica- tion in due fui'm to the proper aiithoritiee, not exceeding two * Note P. S. — .Since tlie .above was written the import duty on foreign coal entering the United kSt.atcs has been reduced from $1.25 t,o 75 cents jpcr ton. Anthracite is admitted duty tVoe. The 3)ublished statements of the exports frcm Xanaimo, for tiic iiall- .year ending 30th June last, show a notable increase, wiiieh is nro- .bably due in some measure to this cause, howev-er short the inter- v.iU fur itg ojfforaliotu M COAL-MININQ, AC. years in duration : subject to extension if asked for, upon uatisfactory grounds, at the Governor's discretion. This licence is obtained upon cause shown, and the payment of a trifling fee; and entitles the holder to exclusive mining rights o( search, meanwhile, within the liinita deacribed, other than for gold. 2. A Prospectilig Licence ft)r Coal alone, may include with- in the general limits therein defined, not exceeding five hun- dred acres to each individual apitlicant, of previously unoccu- pied land ; or two thousand five hundred acres to an associa- tion or company consisting of not less than ten jiersona. The licence carries with it the right to make roads, use timber, erect buildings, and other privileges necessary to preliminary explorations. 3. If successful in the quest, the final grant is obtained on the following terms — viz. : For any quantity up to and inclu- ding one thousand acres, at the price of five dollars per acre : provided always that on proof, to the satisfaction of the Govern- ment, that the sum of ten thousand dollars has been bene- ficially expended on any laud held under Prospecting Licence for Coal, a grant of one thousand acres of the land held under Buch Prospecting Licence shall be issued to the company hold- ing it, without payment of the upset price of such land. In other words they receive, virtually a boiuis of five thousand dollars, in consideration of the preliminary expenditure of the larger sum. Under certain necessary modifications, the same general rules apply to mining explorations in quest of the other minerals named. I do not, of course, profess to go into details ; but I may venture generally on this assurance — that the most liberal interpretation to the provisions of the Ordi- nance is always given by the Government, whether as regards individuals, oi associations * * Note P.S. — In the Appendix will be found a description of the Coal-works in operation at Nanaimo, which has very recently been given by a visitor. Appendix B-2. The great riches of Vancouver Island in this Invaluable fossil, and the excellent quality of the ATTRACTIONS FOR SETTLEMENT. 87 In conclusion, the general advantages of British Columliio u» a fielil I'ur innnigration may be hrieily siinimed. A temperate climate, remarkably rtiilubrious in ita character ; a fertile Huil easily brought into cultivation ; rich and exten- Bive i)usture.s; abundant natural resources for procuring food; land cheaply, if not gratuitously, attainable by the industrioua; good government under a liberal constitution ; security of lilb and property under rigidly executed laws ; facilities for reli- gious worship for every denomination ; a liberal system of education, free of cost ; ready and cheap postal communicatiou with all parts of the world; telegraphic fiicilities througli the United States to Canada and Europe; a wide and constantly extending '' market, soon to be enormously increased by the progress of the Canadian Pacific Kailway and other concom- itant enterprises. To this may be added, the early occupation of p Country destined, if all augury be not fallacious, ere long to becoiiii.-, in connexion with the Dominion of Canada, one of the moat important and nourishing dependencies of the Imperial Crown. The distance of British Columbia from England, added to tlm uncertainty or ignorance of its resources, has doubtless so liir acted against its being regarded favourably as a field for colo- nization. A reference to the scale of passages in the Appendix will, 'however, show that the objection of distance, at least, through increased facilities of locomotion, is gradually vaiu>li- ing. British Columbia is in reality to-day nearer to Loud< n, in point of time, than was Canada thirty years ago. The cost is still an objection ; but even this, it is to be expected, will soon be diminished, if not materially, at least to some extent. At present the command of abor t £ 10 is necessary for a se- cond class passenger ; thus : England to New York or Halifax, £6 to £8 §10 To San Francisco (Currency) by railway 90 coal produced, apart from the commercial advantages directly ac- cruing, point to a groat mauufacturiug future for this part oi tbo Proviuce. ■XM IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h t^. / '/.. s 1.0 I.I 1.25 s ^ IIIIIM Illll 1.8 U Illll 1.6 V] 6^ 'm ^•W, ">- V '■? /a V /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST \js-M STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^ 4? V o ^ <^ ^\> ^.^ ^\ 6^ T ■f> 88 ATTRACTIONS FOR SETTLEMENT. To Victoria 15 IncidfiQtal Expenses , 50 ei95 It iH to Ik >x)mc in mind) however, that the passage may be thus cfTected within tlie month ; and that consccjuently the overland route is on the wliole the cheapt8t. I am aware of no instance where an able-bodied, industrioup, and «ober man, reacliing the Province, has failed of succcsf. "Wliat with the gt portant condition : and it is satisfactory to know, that, under the new relations of the Province, this co-operation will ero long be afforded. The success of Mr. Duncan, the Superin- tendent of the Church Missionary establishment at Methla- katla before referred to, only partially fo.stcrcd by the autho- rities as his exertions may have boon, is an example of what may be effected under zealous and judicious management. I am aware that the efforts of this gentleman have been occasionally scoffed at or under-rated ; but every enterprise of the same nature has been subjected to similar detraction, — the value of which, therefore, in this case may be readily estimated. My own conclusion, from information directly and indirectly acquired from unquestionable sources, is that much good has been already effected, and a solid ground- work laid for wide pro.spective improvement. Yet it is to be regretted that in the conduct of this mission, admirable though its success has been, a grave oversight is suffered to continue by its sustainers. Its policy is too much centered in an individual — in many points of view an evil, and obvi- onsly in this; that, do successor being in course of pro- so INDIANS AM) INDIAN MlHMKiNS. paration, were tho present Supcrintcndont to die to-morrow, tho wholo edifice which lie has founded witb so umcli pains, would probably cruuibli, to the ground. Division of labor, 80 necc&sary in the incchanieul arts,* is no less beneficial iu missionary enterprise. Various njis.sions have at diflPcrent times been established among the Indians of the North-west; some of which, like that just noticed, have been partially successful, while others, through neglect of proper conditions, have signally failed. East of tljc Rocky Mountains an Episcopalian Mis- sion has been iu operation on the M!s»!n!pi\ or English River, which has, I understand, attained a fair measure of success. This lui.ssion, which has existed for the last thirty years, was founded and liberally endowed under the will of the late Mr. James Leith, formerly a Chief Factor of the Hudson's Hay Company, for the special improvement of the natives among whom it has been placed. Upon the Sas- katchewan, and at Lake Winipeg, on my last visit to Hud- son's Bay, iu 1842, a Wesleyan Mission had been recently established ; and there were also Roman Catholic Missions in various parts. On the Columbia River, in tUe parts which * The importance of this axiom is notably recognised by the Jesuits, iu the admirable discipline of their missions. While regu- lar subordinatiou is maintained, aught approaching to a prepon- derating individual influence is rigidly discountenanced. All unite, each in his separate path, to promote the common end : and on& leader being removed by death or other cause, another is not wanting to supply the deficiency. With some I may possibly incur a degree of odium for thus instancing as an example, the proceed- ings of a body whooi I know it is the fashion to- decry. But I do so advisedly — without reference to the remote political aspirations which its members are supposed constantly to k«ep in view, and of which I do not profess to judge — but solely in accordance with the beneficent results of their exertions, as missionaries, which I myself have witnessed. I may add, that I recall with satisfac- tion the many pleasant hours which — spite of formal difference of creed — I have enjoyed, in bygone times, in the remote recesses of the interior, along the line of the Rocky Mountains, in the society of my worthy friends of this indefatigable Order : notably, the Fathers Nobiii, De Vos, Vercruysse, Accolti, Mingarini, and others ; some of whom have since gone to their rest, while otbera Btill continue their self-denying labours in various parts. llfUIAAt ANU INUIArf MluaiUNS. Vi by the Treaty of 1^40, }>pcaino portions <>f tlic T'nlJnl States, sovorul missionary eHtablinhiuenta were foiuulotl in 1810 by AnicricaD Hocieties, and afterwards abandoned in despair of Buccess. One of these, howover, conducted, on tlic more solid basis I have indicated, by the Ueverend Dr. Whittuan, gave earnest of a wore favorable issue. I>ut a sad catastro- phe rudely dissipated the sanguine hopes that had been formed. The Measles broke out in 1847, and ignorant or neglectful of the simple necessary precautions under the disease, many of the natives were carried off, through'^'it the country. Whispers of foul play and evil influence were insinuated into the credulous minds of the survivors; and their animosity, once roused, was readily directed against their benefactors. A sudden attack was made, resulting in the massacre of the worthy Dr. Whitman, his wife, and others connected with the Mission.* Since this catastrophe * The Diissiun stutioa of Dr. Whitman wus among the Cayooses, at Wailetpoo near Wiilla Wullii in Washington Territory. Tiii-ro Bcems to be little doubt that the instigator to this i'earrul mussacro was one Joe Lewis, said to have been a Mormon, who subsiMjuenlly evaded punishment by absconding to the Mountains. A curious exempliticutiuu of the respect iu which the people of the Hudson's Bay Company were held by the natives, was attbrded on this sad occasion. Two boys, sons of one of the Officers, who were under the care of Dr. Whitman, for tuition, were called forth by name as the massacre began, and from the very presence of the poor lady who a moment after fell a victim. They were taken charge of by the chief, and sent on horseback, under escort, to the adjacent post of the Company at Walla Walla. Subsequently th? late Chief Factor Peter Skeen Ogdcn, who with the present .Sir James Douglas at that time superintended the affairs of the Columbia Department, ransomed from the Indians, and thus probably saved the lives, of a number of American immigrants who had been made captives. It is of interest, however, to notice how all these matters dove- tail with each other. The existence of British Columbia as a Col- ony — an event that sooner or later must of course have occurred — was directly hastened by the event related. Debarrcil for the time from our usual access to the sea, by the Columbia River, through the war that existed between the American Government and tho Indians — known locally as the Coyooic War — we were comi)elled, in 1848, to force our way to the Coast by the line of the Fraser, in order to import the annual supplies for the Interior. Fortunately, as if by prophetic anticipation, routes in this direction had been explored during the summers of 1840 and 1S47. 15y one of tiicsc, striking the Eraser at the point above Yale where the Alexaudni J ( f i! INDIANS AND INDIAN MIUSIONH. all Diitisionury cutcrpriHC, upon the line of tlic (.'olumbin Hiver, hn8, I believe, been confined to the Kumuii (.'utholicH. On the J'enii' oreiln! tributary, near the Jlountlury Jjino, u •leHuit niiuHion has been in operutiou fur uiuny years, through whieh iiiiifh good has been cflft'eti;d — u Bystciu of ruiuuiou-labour, under e8tublished ruloH, being partly the foundation of success. As fur back us 1S42, the late Kight Reverend iiishup "Deniers — then u priest, and afterwards K. C Bishop ui the Diocese — passed a winter under the writer's roof at Alexandria, where u rude church was erected under his supervision by the natives: and at present, at dif- ferent points there are mission-stations conducted by clergy of tlio various denoniinutionH, whose labours, it may be hoped, are more or less encouraged by success. I have thought it pntper, even at the risk of being tt'diou«», to dwell at some length upon this topic, ni (»rder t;j dispel the impression that appears to have gone abrund, that the Natives of British Columbia are in a eunditioti of unmitigated barbarism — than which no statement can bo njore fallacious. That the large majority of the Coast Indians arc, morally, in a very degraded con ition, may not be cofieenled : but there is nothing in their eonduct to ju.stify the fabulous talcs of wan- ton blood-thirst, as against the whites, that liave been lately promulgated. Thievish, and deplorably iieentiuus in th«ir habits, as they doubtless arc, they have been over-awed by the law J and tin; seeds, at least, of nieral improvement — tardy and remote though the growth may *'% and impeded by the corruptions promoted by the lower grades of the eivilizcd race — have been cast among them. Nor let this consideration be received with sneering incredulity. Precept and example are never without effect, albeit sl(jw, and at first imperceptible. The (jood is perceived : and though, as with BrldKc now spans tlic river, we succeedod in prtiotrnting to the ilcpot nt Foil Liuit;lcy — niui tliciicefoiw.ini, at liisl hy iliis roiito iind subsequptitly \u the Emperor of Germany, whose decision may be shortly expected. In pursuance of this subject I need only quote the following words from a recent speech of the Prime Minister of Canada, Sir John A. Maedonald. " That [the San Juan question] is settled in a way that no one can object to. I do not know whether many honorable members have ever studied that question. It is a most interesting one, and has long been a cause of controversy between the two countries, I am bound to uphold, and I do uphold, the British view respecting the channel which forms the boundary, as the correct one. The United States Government were, I believe, as sincerely convinced of their own case. Both believed they were in the right, both were firmly grounded in that opinion; and such being the case thero was only one way of it, and that was to leave it to be END. Ill settled by impartial arbitration. ♦*******♦*♦*•*♦ Whatever the deeisioii may be — whether for England or aj^ainst her — you may be satisfied tliat you will get a most learned and careful judgment in tlic matter, to which wo must bow if it is against u.-^, and to which I am sure the United States will bow if it is against them."* Here, thcL* tbo matter stands, pending the Emperor's decision. The writer must conclude with a personal explanation — at no time a graceful act, but which under the circum- stances seems inevitable. The distant reader, for whom alone such explanation will be necessary, may possibly en- quire as to the conditions which justify the writer in ad- vancing, at timed, unqualified opinions upon certain subjects^ to render which of authentic value, long experience, and peculiar opportunities for observation, must be pre-esta- blished. To forestal all probable conjecture on this point he may at once state, that since his youth, for the last forty years — more than two-thirds of his life-tlnic — he has been a sojourner in various parts within the vast angle included by the Columbia River, and the llocky Mountains: first as a Clerk, then as a Chief-Xradcr and Wintering-Partner, of the Hudson's Bay Company under tlio old rejimc; and after- wards as a rather unsettled " settler" — till for some years past near Victoria, where he is uow, probably, permanently at home. Thus there arc few nooks, within the area in question, which he has not either visited in person, or of which he has not indirectly acquired a knowledge. In treating the subject the retrospect has been at times a painful one: for if, as may be imagined, during the earlier period * Speech of yir John A. Miicdoualil, K.C.B., ia ihe lIou3e of Coniuious of Canada. 3id May, 1872. 112 INt>. be may have passed some aoxioas intervals amid the scenes he has attempted to describe, ho has also spent very many happy days, of which the memory alone remains to him. Nc8aun niRKgior dolore, Che ricordarsi del tempo felice Nella miaeria. — Nevertheless, he has the consolation to think, that the region of his former wanderings, already the scene of the active industries of civilisation, will ere long teem with a numerous and happy population: and if to this end the foregoing pages shall anywise tend to contribute, ho feels that he will at least not have been without usefulness in his generation. ROSXBANR, YlOTOBIA, B. C, Augu$t, 1872. icenes f mauy im. lat the of the with a Dd the 10 feels oess in APPENDIX. J i APPENDIX. APPENDIX A. Extract from a Memorandum hy the late James M. Yalc^ Esquire, formerly of the Ilrds&n's Bay Company, relatiny to the Eraser River Salmon. " I believe, and think it may be asserted as a fact, that none of the several kinds of Salmon, including Hones, entering Fraser River and the smaller streams, ever return to the sea. The largo and superior kind called by the natives Sd-quy (Kase of the text) enter the river in May or June, but do not, it would seem, make so great a rush to reach the end of their course as the smaller kind, called by the Quaitlins Suck-ky (To/o of the text). This species enter the river generally about the beginning of July, and are fol- lowed in September, some seasons earlier, by the Sa-wen (Fall Salmon), paler in color of flesh and somewhat larger *han the Suck-ky. When taken in season they are found to be an excellent fish. With these come, late in autumn, a few of large size nailed Pague, differing from the Sa-quy only in their flesk being whiter, head smaller, and body broader in proportion. Another whitc- fleshed fish call' J Qua-lo, having the external parts broadly striped or barred with a pale yellowish greea and a dark brownj color, some years enter Fraser River in great plenty, and are nearly equal in size to the Sa-quy. They have more the resemblance of the other Salmon, and are a bei ter flavored fish than the Ilunnuna (or Hones)." Mr. Yale, the writer of the above remarks, was for many years in command at Fort Langley, near the entrance of Fraser River, and had therefore peculiar, opportunities for observation, as re- garded the Lower River. APPENDIX B. Exports from Alhcrni, Barclay Sound, in the year 1862. Rough Lumber, T, 804, 000 foot $85,844 00 Dressed do. 270,000 feet 5,400 CO Four cargoes Spars, value 28,G'3'3 00 Oil, 5,000 gallons @ 40 certs 2,000 00 Furs and Skins 1,000 00 $122,917 00 The working of these mills has since been suspended. ii. APPENDIX. APPENDIX C. Lcclared Value of Exports of Lumher from tJie Province of British dlumhia in the year 1871. To England, 1 sbip (including Spars $2,000) $4,C72 00 To the Coloniog ; New South Wales, 3 ships 8,904 00 New Zealand 1 ,, 5,100 00 Victoria 3 ,, 13,596 00 Cape of Good Rope 1 ,, (including Spars $500) 3,538 00 To Foreign Countries : Batavia 1 ,, 4,823 OC Chili 10 „ (including Spars $1,100) .. 59,671 00 China 6 „ 20,402 00 Peru 10 ,, 49,742 00 Sandwich Islands 4 ,, (portions of cargoes) 5,784 00 United States 258 00 TOTAI, 40 ships $182,490 00 APPENDIX D. Declared Amount of Shipments of Coal in the year 1871 (Value at the wharf $Q per ton). TONS. To San Francisco 13,704 Portland, Oregon 1,632 Port Townsend, Washington Territory 162 Honolulu, Sandwich Islands 4,860 Tons 20,358 Value.. $122,148 Shipped for Home Consumption. TONS. To Victoria (approxioiate' amount) 5,300 Casual supplies to Steamers (ditto) 4,150 Approximation from f Tons 9,450 the data of 6 months \ Value... $50,700 Total 29,808 Tons, Value $178,848 The above statement is from the Custom-House Returns ; the following, since published, is taken from the British Colonist new»- J)apcr. la both the British ton of 2,240 lbs. is intended. . APPENDIX. ^ ijj San Francisco tons cwt. Honolulu 14,135 00 Macallan " 1,300 00 Portland "//.* 600 00 Oonalaska 597 10 Victrria ......." 332 00 Steamers calling.*,*.".'.'* 4,601 00 New Westminster... 3,981 00 41 00 Total «- -q^ ,„ T. . . , 25,587 10 npon'coaVe^trr!:^ tt UnitSltltLf"* 'f "^^^ *^« -P-* ^-^7 from $1.25 to 75 cents ner ton !> .''•'°»-''- apparent is doubtless in som?',^. "^ ^^"^ increased demand coal enters free of dutj ' ascribable. Anthracite APPENDIX E. Declared Value of E.port. of Furs, OR, cC.., in tJ^e year ending December, l^n. ''"^ y^<^^ Furs ..... Fish Oil Wool Hides Fish Tallow.... • ••«•••■•« ' $246,387 22,440 10,875 4,197 14,584 1 i ' IV. APPENDIX. APPENDIX F. • Shipment of Gold, product of tht British Columbia Klines during the ijcar \'61\. January $109,898 26 Februar:, 57,309 97 March 64,583 01 April 56,779 50 May 134,360 36 Juno 102,302 32 July 82,681 13 Au>?ust 149,023 48 September 138,184 90 October 128,409 47 NovptTib,-r 158,304 81 December 107,743 62 Total $1,349,580 83 As under : — Wells, Fargo, & Co i?:372,408 11 Bank of British North America 383,645 87 Bank of British Columbia 593,526 85 $1,349,580 83 Previous Shipments : — 1858 $ 337,765 00 1859 1,211.339 00 1860 1.303;329 00 1861 1,6,16,870 00 1862 2,167,183 00 6,656,486 00 1863 "i . . , .„„. [ Approximate. 1865 I •^° separate returns 5,688,741 00 1866 1,625,311 19 1867 1,850,051 04 1868 1,780,587 08 1869 1,324,871 84 1870 1,002,717 65 7,584,138 80 Grand Total $21,278,946 63 The foregoing may be accepted as a correct Return as far as the records show: but it does not convey a just impression of the whole gold-produce of the Country, owing to the"j large amounts taken away in private hands, the aggregate of which it is impossi- ble to estimate. For this statement I am indebted to F. Garesche Esq., Ageut in Victoria of Messrs. Wells, Fargo, & Co. ' APPENDIX. V. il 13 63 1- c» 1-H ^ " ^ Oi . • ^0 O M S 00 ^ 5^ .-^ ^"g |2! 'S'^ 6 e/~ so o CQ o^oq •< o "< P3 ^ H ^ W S) ii fJ <1 o w O H O CO H -< § M .=<» '^ e^ M «*- o PI fiq 1 n Tl. APPENDIX. APPENDIX H. Hates of Wages current in Victoria, May, 1872. Carpenters, $3.50 to $3.15 per diem. • Blacksmiths, '\ Bricklayers, [-$5 to $6 per diem. Plasterers, &c j Female Servants: Nursemai'3,$12 to $15; Cooks, &c., $20 to $25 per month. Men-servants (Chinese), $20 to $25 per month. Laborers, scarce at $30 to $35 per mouth, with board. APPENDIX I. Rates of Passage. By Seilinp; Ship, from England to Victoria, Cabin, £60 (n>, £70 (120 to 160 days). 2nd do. £30 @ £35 By Steamer, via Panama, from Now York to San Francisco (about 3 weeks) : Cabin, $100 Currency = to about $90 in gold. Steerage 50 ,, = ,, 45 ,, By Steamer, from San Francisco to Victoria (3 to 4 days) : Cabin $30 in gold. Steerage 15 ,, By Rail, from Chicago to San Francisco (about 7 days) : First Class $118 Currency = to about $106 in gold. 2nd Class 85 ,, = ,, 76.60 „ And about $25 Currency for meals, beds, &c. Exchange. £20 deposited in London would at present be worth, payable in in Victoria, $4.85 per £ Sterling ; i. e. would buy a draft payable in Victoria at sight for $97. Interest. Money is worth from 9 to 12 per cent, per annum, with good security— say an average of 10 per cent. For temporary loans of small amount, higher rates can be obtained. to $25 ^ £70 ) £35 about gold. )) gold. n gold. le in '^ablo APPENDIX. APPENDIX K. TiL ^^m/lf i/'^'T^y^,"^ ^'Oister I'cpi at Fort McLougWn, , \ T'^r ;i«t^^™'*l line of the mean annual heat om' fntermpr.; t""'* 'A"f*^"'' be assumed to strike the Coast at some intermediate point between this and New Westminster-probably about the northern end of Vancouver Island. The ob«ervat?on3 from which the foregoing abstra.. was made were commenced b^ the writer, and coutmued by Dr. W. F. Tolmie, now of Victoria food 3 of • •• VUl. APPENDIX. P Abstract of Meteorological Observations taken on loan! ILr Majestt/^s Ship Topazc, at Esquimalt, Vaiicouvcr Island. Quarter ending 30th June, 1860. April, mean daily heat 61°50Fahrn. May ,, ,, 55 25 June ,, ,, Gl 00 Mean of the Quarter 55° 59 July „ ,, 60°50 August ,, , 63 25 September,, ,, 67 25 Mean of the Quarter CO" 33 October ,, ,, 53°00 November,, ,, 50 50 December ,, ,, 42 00 Mean of the Quarter 48° 60 1861. January ,, ,, 38°00 February ,, ,, 44 50 March ,, ,, 46 00 Mean of the Quarter 42° 83 Mean Ilcat of the Year 51° 81 The above Abstract is taken from an Essay on Vancouver Island by Dr. Charles Forbes, R. N., published in Victoria in 1802. In the same work other tables arc given relating to Observations on land, butwilhout the authoritifs. These, however, contain obvious discrepancies, and I do not therefore reproduce thera. In those the minimum of temperature noted is 14t degrees of Fahrenheit, the highest 84°, at 2 p.m. The last, given as a niaxinuim, and as oc- curring on the 2Cth June— certainly not a hot month — difl'ers so widely from the observations of others, as to shake my confidence in the whole series. Ta le of Meteorological Obarvaiions taken bt/ orrler of Col. R. C. Mondy, R.E., at the station of the Roi/al Engineers vt New Westminsttr^ B. C., m the year 18GU. Latitude 49° 12' W 5 N. Longitude 122° 53' 19 W. INCHES. The highest reading of the Barometer, corrected for temperature, was 30.517 9th February. The mean height, do., do., at 9.30 a.m. 29.983 Do. do. do. do. at 3.30 P.M. 29.963 The lowest do. do 29.071 22nd January. . Al'I'ENDIX. IX. OEORRES. Max. temp, in fwu's rnys (blnck bulb)... 104.0 29th August. Do. do. of Air, ill simile 88.5 do. Do. do. do. do Do. do. do. do Mean temp, of Air in s D( ... n..3o A.M. .3.30 P.M. liido !• .30 A.M. 3.30 P.M. S3 nnidity lo. 0.30 A M. lo. 3.30 P.M. lo. 73.9 23rd July. 8(i.0 28th August. 46.8 51.5 2.0 below zero, 15 Jan. CO loth January. 15.0 below zero, 16 Jan. 1.000 ,842 .772 .320 Jaromcter is about 54 feet above the level of the sea. All the observations were made at 9.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. daily throughout the year. There were slight frosts nearly every night in the month of April, and once ;n May (16th) ; they did not recommence until the 0th of October. The severe frosts of January and February have been un- known for many years. Thunder and Lightning occurred on the 24th May, 24th July, and 22nd, 20th, and 30th August. Table shewing the depth of rain, the number of days on which it fell, the mean humidity (9.30 a.m. and 3 30 p.m.), mean temper- ature of the air in shade, and the lowest temperature on the grass in each mouth. THERSIOMETER. Mill. Inches. Davs; IIUTniOity, 0.30 a.m. 3. SO p.m. ongruns; 3.480 9 ^ .Tanunry . February... 5.727 8 March 5.830 17 April 2.345 14 Way 3.475 13 June 2.760 10 July 2.700 12 August 2.930 ...... 8 September. 1.625 9 October 4.005 10 Kovember.. 4.050 8 December.. 7.it90 17 • ■ • • • . .855 .... .. 19.0 . 23.0 ... .. -15.0 . .815 .... .. 30.3 . 34.2 ... .. 2.0 . .862 .... .. 38.0 . 41.7 ... .. 23.0 . .707 .... .. 45.5 . 51.3 .... .. 26.0 . .718 .... .. 57.1 . 62.1 ... .. 31.5 . .712 .... .. 02.7 .67.1 ... .. 40.0 .713 .... .. 63.2 . 07.7 ... .. 44.0 .787 .... .. 03.5 . 00.8 .... .. 43.0 . .751 .... .. 58.4 . 62.7 ... .. 33.5 . .800 .... .. 40.3 . 52.9 .... .. 23.0 .038 .... .. 37.0 . 41.7 .... .. 22.0 .948 .... .. 36.7 . 39.7 .... .. 18.5 Total 47.466 135 Rain fell on 8 days when the wind was South, -1 -S.W., 3 — W., 5— N.W., 8— N.E., 43 E., 26 S.E., and 38 when calm The greatest fall of rain in 24 hours measured 2.260 inches, and was on the 20th March. The average fall for every day of the year was 0.130 inches, and for each wet day it was 0.352. The amount of Ozone this year was very small, its mean daily number would be represented by .3 on the scale, and it seldom ex- ceed 6. During the greater part of October, November, and Decem- ber there was little indication of its presence. In November and the early part of December there were heavy fogs, during which there was no Ozone. - Hi X. APPENDIX. CCMPAIUSON OP MKAN UEHIJLT8 FOB THRKE YKAR3. Yoara K» in. .111 Toiiipi' IlltUIl!. Min. Ull KMkHH, Hum Idity. Mean lii'iKlit uf Hardinitcr. illclieH iliiyH 9.:i0A.M 49.0 48.8 46.8 3.30 |>.M 9.30A.M 3.S0P.M 9.30A.M 20.942 29.943 29.983 3.30 P. M 1860 1861 1802 ('i().4H.'> 4T.4li« i.n 164 136 54.0 62.2 61.2 52.6 15.5 10.0 -16.0 .847 .764 .842 .VfiO .854 .772 29.919 29.8H9 3U.0*i3 Moans 54.124 l.'iO 48.6 .818 .797 29.056 20.924 Uiiin was more equally distributed throughout all the montha this year than in 18G() or l8(jl. In the winter months, January to March, and October to Decem- ber, 31.G82 inches of rain fell in 18G2, 41.230 in IBGl, and 40.58G in 1800. In the remaining months 15.785 inches fell in 18G2, 19.2,')5 in IHGl, and 13.834 in 18G0. The prevailing direction of the wind during rain in each year was K. and S.K. The absolute limiting nights of frost in the three years were nearly the same. THE FRASKR RIVER AT NEW WESTMINSTER. Year. 1860 1861 1862 Ili),'llCMt Itvel. 12tli .hini' 8tli .liino 14th Juno Lowci't levol. :i)iflvi»!ii('o of levol . 4tli Mar. nth Mar. 10th April 10.5 foot 9.5 foot 10.6 foot Rcninrks. 22 May to 12 Au>;. ships diil not swing to 19 May to 10 Aug. ilitto. [the flood tide. 1 May to 2 Sopt . ditto^ Ice appeared on the 1st January, 1862, and the river at New Wostmnister was unnavigable on the 4th ; it was completely frozen over on the Oth, and the ice attained a thickness of 13 inches in the channel opposite the R. E. Camp, on the 12th of February. Sleighs were running from Langley to several miles below New Westminster, and persons walked from Hope to the latter place, a distance of 80 miles, on the ice, at the end of January. Lake Har- rison and the other Lakes were frozen. Navigation from New Westminster was open to the mouth of the river on the 11th of March, and from Yale on the 12th April. Again on the 5th of De- cember, there was ice in the river at New Westminster for one day. Ii\ January, 18G1, there was ice at New We?lminster, but the navi- gation to the mouth of the river was not impeded. In 18G0 there was no ice. The observations were taken by 2nd Corporal P. J. Leech and Lance Corporal J. Conroy, R.E. (Signed) R. M. Parsons, Captain, R.E. i Ahstrnct of Meteorological Observations talcen at Lillooett^ Fraser River y 1862, hy Dr. II. Featlierstonehaugh. Fahrenheit. January. — Average Temperature for 22 days 14° above zero Do. do. 9 ,, 9° below ,, Coldest day, 20th 22° ,, ,, AI'PKNDIX. ^ Januury. — lIottc9t day 20' above zero Ten cold windy days, from N.W. to N.E. Total ntnoiiiit of snow, ut intervals, 28 in. [N.B. Thin ri'i)rt'HpntH tlio amount of mitiw iih It fell, not iit it liiy on tlio Kroiitiil lifter l)i'ch Colnmbia by tbc Bcv. E.C. xii. APPENDIX. Liindiii nmwn, M.A., MiiiUtiT of St. Miiry'n LlUoopft. By thotorms "Colilont " ami "Hottest " (liiy, 1 iiiL'suiiin tlio iirtiyiii F.n(?liii'i'rM, Siinio iijiproval the following Terms and Conditions, to form tho l)!isis of a Political Union between British Columbia and the Dominion of Canada : — 1. Can.ida sliali be liable for the Debts and Liabilities of British Columbia existing at the lime of the Union. 2. British Columbia not haviug incurred debts equal to those of the other Provinces now constituting the Dominion shall be entitled t) receive, by half-yearly payments in advance from the General Gov- ernment, Interest at the rate of live per cent, per annum on tho diflVrence between the actual amount of its indebtedness at the date of the Union, and the indebtedness per head of the population of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ($27 77), the population of British Columbia being taken at GO, 000. 3. The following sums shall be paid b; Canada to British Col- umbia, for the support of its Government r.n ' Legislature, to wit, nn Annual Subsidy of $35,000 and au j\nnu!j Grant equal to 80 cents pc'r head of the said population of i'!\' 00, both half-yearly in ndvanco, such Grant of 80 cents per head io be augmented in pro- portion to the increase of population, as may be shewn by each subsetiuent decennial cpnsus, until the population amounts to 400,- 000, at which rate such Grant shall thereafter remain, it being understood that the first census betaken in the year 1881. 4. The Dominion will provide an eflicient Mail Service, fort- nightly, by steam communication between Victoria and San Fran- cisco, and twice a week between Victoria and Olympia; the Vessels to be adapted for the conveyance of freight and passengers. AI'PKNDIX. Mil. 6. Canada will assume and defray tlic charges fur tho folIuwiti<; Services : — A. Salary of the Lieutenant Governor ; I). Salaries and Allowances of the Judges of tho yiipremc Courts and tho County or District Courts ; C. The charges in respect to the Department of Cutsioms ; D. The Postal and Tel .-jraphic Servii-es ; E. Protection and Encouragement of Fisheries ; F. Provision for the Militia ; G. Lighthouses, Buoys, and Beacons, Shipwrecked Crows, Quarantine and Marine Hospitals, including a Marine iiuspilul at Victoria ; II. The Geological Survey ; I. The Penitentiary; And stich further ciiarges as may be incident to and connected with the services which by the British North America Act of 18G7 appertain to the General Government, and as are or maj be allowed to the other Provinces. 6. Suitable Pensions, such as shall bo approved of by Her Majesty's Government, shall be provided by tlie Government ol the Dominion for those of Her Majesty's Servants in the Colony wliose position and emoluments derived therefrom would be an'cctcd by Political changes c-n the admission of British Columbia into tho Dominion of Canada. 7. It is agreed that the existing Customs Tariff and Excise Duties shall continue in force in British Columbia until the Hallway from the Pacific Coast and the system of Railways in Canada are con- nected, unless the Legislature of British Columbia should sooner decide to accept the Tariff and Excise Laws of Canada. When Customs and Excise duties are, at the time of the Union of British Columbia with Canada, leviable on any Goods, Wares, or Mcrdian- dizes in British Columbia, or in the other Provinces of the Domin- ion, those Goods, Wares, or Merchandizes may, from and alter the Union, be imported into British Columbia from the Provinces now composing the Dominion, or from either of those provinces into British Columbia, on proof of payment of the Customs or Excise Duties leviable thereon in the Province of Exportation, and on payment of such further amount (if any) of Customs or Excise Duties as are leviable thereon in the Province of Importation. This arrangement to have no force or eBFect after the assimilation of the Tariff and Excise Duties of British Columbia with those of the Dominion. 8. British Columbia ..uall be entitled to be represented in the Senate by three Members, and by six Members in the Honse of Commons. The representation to be increased under the provisions of the British North America Act, 1807. 9. The influence of the Dominion Government will be used to secure the continued maintenance of the Naval Station atEsquimalt. 10. The provisions of the British North America Act, 18G7, shall (except those parts thereof which are in terms made, or by reason- able intendment may be held to be specially applicable to and only affect one and not the whole of the Provinces now comprising the Dominion, and except so far as the same may be varied by this minute) be applicable to British Columbia, in the same way XIV, Al'PKNDIX. and to the like extent as they apply to the other Province? of the Dominion, and as if the Colony of British Columhia had been one of the Provinces originally united by the said Act. 11. The Government of the Dominion undertake to secure the comincncciient simultaneously, within two years from the date of the Union, of the construction of a Railway from the Pacific towards the Rocky Mountains, and from such point as may bo selected, East of the Rocky Mountains, towards the Pacific, to connect the Seaboard of British Columbia with the Railway system of Canada ; and further, to secure the completion of such Railway within ten years from the date of the Union. And the Government of British Columbia agree to convey to the Dominion Government, in trust, to be appropriated in such a manner as the Dominion Government may deem advisable in furtherance of the construction of the said Railway, a similar extent of Public Lands along the line of Railway throughout its entire length in British Columbia, not to exceed Twenty (20) Miles on each side of said line, as may be appropri.ited for the same pur- pose by the Dominion Government from the Public Lands in the North-west Territories and the Province of Manitoba. Provided that the quantity of land which may be held under Pre-emption right or by Crown Grant within the limits of the tract of land in British Columbia to be so conveyed to the Dominion Government, shall be made good to the Dominion from contiguous Public Lands; and provided further, that until the commencement, within Two Years as aforesaid from the date of Union, of the construction of the said Railway, the Government of British Columbia shall not sell or alienate any further portions of the Public Lands of British Columbia in any other way than under right of Pre-emption, requiring actual residence of the Pre-emptor on the land claimed by him. In consideration of the land to be so con- veyed in aid of the construction of the said Railway, the Dominion Government agree to pay to British Columbia, from the date of the Union, the sum of $100,000 per annum, in half-yearly payments in advance. 12. The Dominion Government shall guarantee the interest for Ten years from the date of the completion of the works, at the rate of Five per centum per annum, on such sum, not exceeding £100,000 sterling as may be required for the construction of a first-class Graving Dock at Esquimau. 13. The charge of the Indians, and the trusteeship and manage- ment of the Lands Reserved for their use and benefit, shall be assumed by the Dominion Government, and a policy as liberal aa that hitherto pursued by the British Columbia Government, shall bo continued by the Dominion Government after the Union. To carry out such policy, tracts of land of such extent as it has hitherto been the practice of the British Columbia Governmeut to appropriate for that purpose, shall from time to time be conveyed by the Local Government to the Dominion Government in trust for the use and benefit of the Indians on application of the Domin- ion Government ; and in case of disagreement between the two Governments respecting the quantity of such tracts of Land to be so granted, the matter shall be referred for the decision of the Socretarv of State for the Colonics. VB W li I APPKNDIX. XV. 14. The Constitution of the Executive Authority and of the Legislature of British Columbia shall, subject to the provisions of the British North America Act, 18(37, continue as existing at the time of the said Union until altered under the authority of the said Act, it being at the same time understood that the Government of the Dominion will readily consent to the introduction of Respon- sible Government when desired by the Inhabitants of British Columbia, and it boi.ig likewise understood that it is the intention of the Governor of British Columbia, under the authority of the Secretary of State for the Colonies, to amend the existing Consti- tution of the Legislature by providing that a majority of its Members shall be elective. The Union "hall tike effect according to the foregoing terms and ••onditious on such day as Her Majesty by and with the advice of Her Most Honourable Privy Council may appoint (on addresses from the Legislature of the Colony of British Columbia, and of the House? of Parliament of Canada, in the terms of the 14Gth Section of the British North America Act, 18G7,) and Brl.ish Columbia may in its addresses specify the Electoral Districts for which the first Election of Members to serve in the House of Commons shall take place. Certified, Wm. H. LEE, Clerk Privy Council, Canada. APPENDIX M. Estimates of the total Expenditure of the Province of British! Columbia for the year ending 'd\st December y 1872. CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 1. — LlEUTENANT-GOVERNOR'a OFFICE. Private Secretary $ 1,452 00 Messenger, also has charge of Government House Office Contingencies 600 00 100 00 Total ,152 00 2. — Colonial Secuktary's Department. Colonial Secretary 3,500 00 •Assistant Colonial Secretary 1,940 00 Clerk 1,G00 00 Messenger ■■■■. 600 ^0 Total 7,640 00 3. — '^'KiNTiNa Branch. Superintendent 1,320 00 Printer !)G0 1 Assistant Printer 640 00 Ass'"', nt Printer (temporary) 300 00 Total 3,1!20 00 XVI. AI'l'KNDIX. 4. — Audit Buanch. Audit Clerk 1,600 00 5. — TuEASuttY Branch. Clerk in Charge (provisional) 1,940 00 Clerk 1,452 00 Total 3,392 00 6 — Lands and Works Department. Chief Commissioner 3,r.00 00 Assistant Commissioner 2,425 00 Clerk of Records ... 1,320 00 Draughtsm.-vn 1,320 00 Accountant 1,320 00 Messenger and Clerk GOO 00 Total 10,485 00 1. — Registrar General's Office. Registrar General of Titles 1,940 OO 8. — Attorney General's Department. Attorney General 3,500 00 Clerk 1,G00 00 Total 5,100 00 9. — Executive Council. Clerk 1,600 00 10. — Legislation. Mr. Speaker 1,000 00 Clerk of the House GOO 00 Sergeant-at-Arms 250 00 Messenger (Assistant Printer) 200 00 Indemnity to Members, including Mileage 7,800 00 Expenses of Elections 2,500 00 Contingent Fund 1,000 00 Total 13, SCO 00 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 11. — Supreme Court. ■ Registrar, " Courts Merger Ordinance, 1870" 1,940 00 Deputy Registrar, Do. 1,940 00 . Usher 600 00 Total 4,4fc0 00 12. — Sheriff. High Sheriff (aid of Expenses) ". 1,500 00 POLICE AND GAOLS. 13. — Victoria. Clerk of the Bench 1,500 00 Warden of Gaol and Superintendent of Police 1,Y52 00 t" 00 :o 00 40 00 40 00 30 00 ^0 00 00 PO 2 00 >^. APPENDIX. XVll. Inspector (provisiional) 1.008 00 Serge nt - 850 00 Four onstables, at $120 esich 2,880 00 Gaoler 1,104 00 Do. Assistant 912 50 Superintendent of Convicts 1,008 00 Two Convict Guards 1,277 Two Door Guards 1,005 Cook. Medical Officer 00 00 638 75 600 00 6,G:!5 25 Total 14. — Nkw Wkstminster. > Stipendiary Magistrate and Superintendent of Assay Office 2,425 00 Two Constables at $720 each Gaoler Turnkey Me ,ical Officer Constable, Burrard Inlet Total 6,877 00 15. — KOOTANAIS AND COLUMBIA. Gold Commissioner and Stipendiary Magistrate (to be appointed) 3,000 00 Clerk and Constable (Records, &c.) 1,704 00 Do. • Do. French Creek 1,704 00 Two (^onstables at $1,404 each 2,803 00 1,440 00 1,104 00 708 00 600 00 600 00 Total 9,216 00 16. — Caribou. Gold Commissioner and Stipendiary Magistrate Clerk of Records Chief Constable Constable ard Gaoler Two CoDiitables at $1,008 each Cons; ihle at Quesnel Coiiiable at Forks of Quesnel Toiai... 17. — Omineca (provisio.nal,) ro. ' (/;) Muissionpr and ritipoiuliary Mugij^traie . C;ei w t R(-( orvlri i.8 00 i.al 4,524 00 Ii XVlll. APPENDIX. 19. — LiLLOOET AND CLINTON. Clerk of the Bench and Constable, Lillooet 1,500 00 Do. Do. Clinton 1,500 00 Total 3,000 00 20. — Nanaimo, Comox, Salt Sprino, and Cowiciian. Clerk of the Bench, Nanaimo 1,300 00 Constable, Nanaimo 732 00 Constables, Comox, Cowichan, and Salt Spring Island, $250 each 750 00 Total 2,782 00 21.— ASSAY OFFICE. Superintendent, New "Westminster, (provided for as Stipendiary Magistrate) Chief Melter, Ci' m.oo 1,940 00 Assistant Assayt ' 900 00 Indian Messeni;er, ' cstmlni^ter 9G 00 Chemical.-,, Fiul, t- S.'iOO 00 Freight, &c 3j0 00 850 00 Total 3,786 00 22, PENSIONS AND RETIRED ALLOWANCES. Pension to Mrs. Ogilvy 485 00 23.— ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE, ex. of Establishments. Summoning Jurors, Witnesses, &c 1,000 00 Prosecution, Interpreters' Fees, kc 2,010 00 Inquests, &c 300 00 Expenses of Registrars on Circuit 1,000 00 Criminal Punishments 200 00 Total , 4,500 00 24.— CHARITABLE ALLOWANCES. Hospital aid-Victoria 4,500 00 Do. New Westminster 3,000 00 Do. Cariboo 4.000 00 Destitute poor and sick throughout the Province 1,000 00 Total 12,500 00 25.— IMMIGRATION 10,000 00 2G.— EDUCATION. Aid to District Schools : 40,000 00 27.— POLICE AND GAOLS, exclusive of Establishments. Keep of Prisoners and other Police Expenditure throughout the Province : 20,000 00 00 )0 00 )0 00 io 00 APPENDIX. six. 28.— RENTS. Government House, Victoria 48 50 Do., Lillooet 120 00 Boat House, Nanaimo 36 00 Gaol, Comox 60 00 Omineca 3 00 Total 564 60 29.— TRANSPORT. The Lieutenant-Governor - 1,000 00 Freight on Remittance of Treasure 500 00 Actual Travelling Expenses of Officers on Duty..... 3,500 00 Keep of Government Horses throughout the Province... 300 00 Total 5,300 00 30.— WORKS AND BUILDINGS. Completion of Gaol at Nanaimo and purchase of Land.. 1,000 00 Construction of Court House, New Westminster 2,500 00 Total 3,500 00 31. — Government House, Victoria. Repairs 2,000 00 Furniture 1,500 00 Water 400 00 Fuel and Light 350 00 Planting Grounds 200 00 Salary of Gardener, and assistance 700 00 Fencing 250 00 Incidentals 100 00 Total 5,500 00 32. -Government House, New Westminster. Repairs , 500 00 Fuel and Light 150 00 Gardener s Salary 500 00 Incidentals 100 00 Total 1,250 00 33. — Repairs to Public Buildings, ProvinciaiCi. Government Buildings, Victoria 1,500 00 House of Assembly 500 00 Government Buildings, New Westminster 300 00 Do. Yale 500 00 Do. Lillooet and Clinton 500 00 Do. Cariboo 750 00 Do. Kootenay 2,000 00 Do. Omineca, Contingent 2,000 00 Miscellaneous Surveys throughout the Province 5,000 00 Total 13,050 00 XX. APPENDIX. 34. — Repairs to Roads and Trails THROuonocT the Province. Yale and Cliiuun Road 20,000 00 Clinton and ('araeronton Roiid 14,000 00 Douglas and Clinton Road 1,000 00 Burrard Inlet Road 1,200 00 New Westminster and Yale Sleigh Road, including Bridge over Coqual-alla River G,000 00 Hope and Kootenay Trail ;i,500 00 Lillooet and Lytton Trail 1,500 00 New Westminster Distrii't lloails and Trails, including False Creek, Coquitlam Creek, and yiiraass Bridges 5,G,50 00 Trails, Cariboo District 2,400 00 Trail, Quesnel to Germansen Creek, by Nation Kiver 0,000 00 Do. from the Western Coast to intersect same 5,000 00 Roads and Trails, Yale and Lytton District, including Bridge across Nicola River 4,500 00 Repairs to Road from Cache Creek to Savona's Ferry... 2,000 00 Road from Savona's Ferry to Okanagnn h'),000 00 Repairs to Front Street, New Westminster 750 00 Esquimau Road, including new B"idges 9,000 00 Victoria District Roads 15,200 00 Esquimau District Roads and Trails, including Bridge across Sooke River 7,150 00 Cowichan District Roads and Trails 8,200 00 Nanaimo District Roads and Bridges 5,000 00 Comox Roads and Trails 5,000 00 Albcrni to Nana' no Trail, and from this point to Nanoose 2,400 00 Total 140,450 00 35.— MISCELLANEOUS SERVICES. Provincial Exhibitions 500 00 Insurance on all Government Buildings 700 00 Telegrams GOO 00 Taking charge of Government Buildings, Douglas and Langley 100 00 Printing General Map of ^^rovince in England 600 00 Postage throughout the Province 1,200 CO Tools and Implements for Road making 500 00 Fire Department throughout the Province 2,500 00 Road Tax Commissioners 700 00 Grant to Mechanics' and Literary Institutes 500 00 Grant to Water Company, Victoria 7,000 00 Miscellaneous Services not detailed 2,000 00 Stationery, Fuel, Light, etc 6,500 00 Gratuities to OfDcers whose services may be dispensed with 2,000 00 Appropriation for re-establishment of a Ferry at Lillooet 3,000 00 Appropriation to provide temporary accommodation for Lunatics 5,000 00 Copies of Official Maps for Registrar General of Titles.. 400 00 Copy of Dispatches for Dominion Government 1,000 00 Totfl 34,800 00 APPENDIX. XSl. APPEJS DIX N. 00 00 Abstract of the jrrolahlc Revenue of the Provincial Govern- ment of British Columbia, for the year 1872, shoiciiig aho the Revenue received under the similar heads in the years 1870 and 1871. GO 00 CO 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 loo 00 Dominion Subsidy $ Roads' Tolls Land Sales Land Revenuo Rents, exclusive of Land Free Miners' Certificates Mining lleccipts, General Licenses Fines, forfeitures, & fees of Court Fees of Ulficc Sale of Government property Reimbursements in aid of Ex- penses incurred by Gov't .... Miscellaneous Receipts Arrears, Real Itlstate Tax Arrears, IlnMd Tax Road Tax, 1 O.; Interest on Canadian Stock, at 6 per cent., 9 months EHtiinato of 1872. 211,000 00 0,000 00 7,(100 00 l,2r)0 00 10,00(1 00 12,000 00 43,000 00 0,000 00 5,250 00 200 00 t.8.T7 00 200 00 0,0o0 00 ! 2,000 0(1 ; ';.50o 00 4,500 00 $ 328,737 00 Kevcnue for 1870. 30,302 8,087 4,702 942 8,940 14,955 42,205 7. 007 4,247 1,744 18 03 15 50 00 00 83 51 2S 81 16,108 01 25t; 28 H20 00 6,503 87 156,122 45 Approximate llcvoiiuo of 1871. 00 00 00 00 107,000 00 48,865 00 22.(;(J5 7,227 1,442 11,612 19,148 00 41,730 00 11,454 00 0,123 00 2,550 00 941 00 887 00 0,233 00 5,946 00 292,823 00 APPENDIX O. At Barkervillc, on the 20th ult., Mr. Thompson, M. P., addressed his constituents. In the course of his remarks, the lion, gentle- man presented the following financial statement of tlie direct pecuniarj- benefit British Columbia had derived from union with Canada, which, we think, will bo fouud to be approximately correct : — ' Appropriations for British Columbia for 1872-3. Salary of Lieutenant-Governor $P.000 00 Salary of Auditor 5,000 00 Salaries of Supreme and County Court .Tudges 29,500 00 Probable expense of Administration of Justice 10,000 00 Expense Collecting Customs 20.000 0> Mail Service— Ocean, $54,000: Inlanl. $50,000 104.0on O) XXU. APPENDIX. Lighthouses — Maintenance, $16,500; Construction, $9,000 25,500 00 Telegraph Line — Subsidy and Maintenance 29,000 00 Blasting Sister Rock 7,000 00 Marine expenses 2,000 00 Inland Revenue expenses 2,000 00 Victoria Dredger expenses 10,000 00 Stean:er Sir James Douglas, expen-^es 20,000 00 Building Custom House and Post Oflice, Victoria 25,000 00 Building Marine Hospital 20,000 00 Preliminary surveys for Penitentiary 5,000 00 Indian Affairs 20,000 00 Militia equipments, stores and expenses 30,000 00 Grant towards Immigration 5,000 00 $377,000 00 Subsidy in accordance with Unii Terms 214,000 00 Interest saved and Sinking Funi 1 110,000 00 $711,000 00 Less probable receipts from Customs, now collected by the Dominion Government 300,000 00 —British Colonist, 'Lth Au^/ust, 1872. $411,000 00 APPENDIX P. Rates of Postage. Lettci-H ^ 14 oz. Papers each. Book Post Lowest Rate. England 6 cents 3 " 6 " 23 " 34 " 16 " 16 " 16 " 2 cents 1 " 2 " 6 " 5 " 4 " 4 " 4 '< 9 cts. "^ 4 OZ, 1 ct. per OZ. I 11 U K Throughout the Province and Dominion United States Germany 6 cts per 2 oz. 5 <( u i( France Australia „ New Zealand 1-2 ctsperloz. China Money Orders with Canada and England. 5,500 00 ),000 00 r,ooo 00 !,000 00 •,000 00 >,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 ,000 00 APPENDIX. ' ,^;;; APPENDIX Q. Note rcferrpxl to at pmjc \' '^''"•*'"' ^^'^^^ avcrMge.l APPENDIX E. •■i/w^)^';-, referred to Fkom --ache Cueeic to Okinagan. between Cache Creek in O , ,. I"^^^^^'"?^"'" stages on the route pointwiththemaint „;i notorf";'' ''°""'^^'tinf? at the former The enterprise disphayed V '- u- i' • '•'' '"""^"'''^'^ "'' JTogross. upon the heels of tl ^ road-n ke;;"T:"'1 '" "-"-^ ^""^'^'^^ '"^' '^'"-^'y fact itselfis calculated to Lou efn'/''""''""^ "^' ^"■^''^^- ^be the country as non-prog°Sve .m '>'^'^"stomed to t!,ink of road from Cache Creek to (/kin iT;,"^ '''''^ '*'"• "^ ^^^^^ on it ! I This leads to em ' ? , , , T " ''''^'^^ ^'"' "^" ''''^'^' ^»ieffi;Tno^KE^ ^r '- "S o-^:Sc- -I the reader .hat h;;^; ^^^ ^fiX 'Z::!:;' .^^^.^ ZXIV. APPENDIX. by Mr. Barnard's enterprise. From Cache Creek to OkinSgan, s distance of about one luindred miles, [150] as tlie crow flies, six tliousand licad of cattle fatten upon nature's rich pastures. There is room for more than double that number. Calculating seven hundred pounds of beef to each animal, a low average as beeves go in that section, that would yield eight and a half million pounds of the^nest beef in the world. In 1871 the yield of grain on the Tranquille, North and iSouth Forks of the Thompson amounted to one nnd a quaiter million pounds. That was the product of less than a tenth of the land held under pre-emption, the whole being seven thousand, six hundred and eighty acres, which should bo capable of producing at least twelve million pounds. Of bacon, upwards of forty thousand pounds was cured. At one dairy, (Mr. Jones') two thousand, five hundred pounds of excellent butter was made. The 8i)clitim-chcen Valley will produce fall wheat of tho finest quality without irrigation, in consecjucnce of a fine surface soil ami clay subsoil. The Ukinagan will yield only fall wheat without irrigation; spring wheat, oats, and barley, etc., in won- derful profusion with irrigation. The yield of wheat ranges from one and a quarter to one and a half tons per acre. As high as nine tons of potatoes has been taken from the acre. Wherever tried fruit trees have done exceedingly well, while those severer tests of climate, Indian corn, tomatoes, musk melons, water melons, and even the grape vine have been cultivated with great success and without having recourse to artificial expedients. The country is, for the most part open, dotted with trees giving it almost the appearance of an old country park. It is so free from wood as to enable the horseman to canter at will in almost every direction, and In some Instances no obstructions are presented to the free progress of a carriage. The face of the country is beautiful — relieved by ever changing succession of hill and dale. Ttie water system is excellent, the surface of the country being indented by numerous lakes and rivers or smaller streams, everywhere teeming with fish of excellent quality. A mild climate will have already been inferred. It ma^ be added that snow seldom falls to any depth, and never lies long. Horses, horned cattle and sheep pass the winter unhoused and iincared for and, as a rule, come out in good condition in the spring. On most of the grass ranges cattle shifting for themselves through winter are In pviiue condition fur beef in the spring. In the country thus roughly and very imperfectly sketched, there are a few hundred settlers — we really do not know liow ninny. In the valleys of the Thompson. C)kin:ig;in, uuil (Jitche Creek, there are about one hun- dred children. There is the making of hiippy homes for tens of thousands. In truth n« more desirable country can be found, and it is not unreasonable to hope that the opening of a coach road leading through the heart of it, and the facilities for travel pre- sented by a weekly line of stages may lead persons in scnrch of h lines to go and see for themselves. The impression has gone forth that Hritish Columbia is not, and can never be, an agricultural country. Without jiuusing to discuss the proper definition of the term, we will say, without fear of successful contradiction, that, allhongh Hritisii Columbia may never become a large exporter of H|rrl('\ilturiil productionii, she has at least within herself the means ► - APPENDIX. XXV. of supporting » population of between two and three millions. This much may safely be said in respect of what is known. The unknown we leave to the future. August 0, 1872. APPENDIX R. R. Since the remarks in the text were written, the following com- munication on the subject has been published : Montreal, 13th May, 1872. James Richardson, Esq., Geological Survey. Sir: — At your request we have much pleasure in reporting upon the hops of British Columbia, a sample of which you favoured us with. In our opinion they are of very superior quality, rich and fine in aroma. These hops resemble the California, and would be equally sure to find ready sale in this or other markets at the highest rates; they have been well dried and are in first rate condition. Our estimate of the value of these hops is that they are worth fully 10 cents per pound more than the best Canadian growth, the prices of which, during the past season, ranged from 50 to 75 cents per pound according to demand. Exceptionally high prices, however. Yours faithfully, WM. DOW & Co. — British Colonist newspaper, June, 1872. [The hops in question were raised in the vicinity of Victoria.] APPENDIX S. pre- Ich of ]gone ural the that, sr of leans The following is the Official Advertisement inviting tenders for the construction of a Graving Dock at Esquimalt: British Columbia. ESQUIMALT GRAVING DOCK. The Government of British Columbia are prepared to receive Tenders for the construction of a Graving Dock, at the Naval Station, Esquimalt Harbor, under the guarantee provided in the Twelfth Section of the Terms of Union of this Province with the Dominion of Canada, which Section is in the following words : — ■' Tho Dominion Government shall guarantee the interest for ton years from the date of the completion of the work, at the rate of five per cent, per annum, on such sums, not exceeding £100,000 sterling, as may be required for the construction of a first class Graving Dock at Esquimalt." The Dock to be of masonry, and of not less that the following dirc-msions : — -^ Length on floor, 370 feet, Do. over all, 400 feet, ZZVl. APPENDIX. Width between copings, 90 feet, Do. on floor 45 feet, Do. of entrance 03 feet. To afford a depth of water on tlie sill of not less than 2fiJ feet at high water springs, and to be substantially constructed to the approval of the Government, upon a site to be provided by the person whose tender may be accepted. Further particulars as to site, borings, Ac., may be obtained from T. A. Bulki.ey, Esg., Chief Engineer to Government, upon application in writing to the Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works. Tenders must specify the time within which the Dock will bo completed, and must be accompanied by drawings and descriptions showing exact dimensions, materials, and mode of construction of proposed Dock. Tenders are to be sealed, superscribed "Tender for Esquimalt Graving Dock," addressed to the Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works, Victoria, British Columbia, and delivered at his Office before noon of the 15th day of November, 1872. Persons who may consider the above guarantee to be insufficient are at liberty to tender on the basis of such supplemental guarantee by the Provincial Government, or upon such other financial inducements, as they may suggest. The Government do not bind themselves to accept the lowest or any tender. Each Tender must be accompanied by a Bond from the Contrac- tor, and two sufficient sureties, for the payment of £10,000 to Her Majesty, Her heirs and successors, conditioned upon the due fulfil- ment of the Tender which it accomi)anies, j)rovided it be accepted within three months from the said 15th of November. By Command. GEO. A. WALKEM, Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works. Lands and Works Office, Victoria, April 2lth, 1872. N.B. The date for the reception of Tenders has since been ex- tended to noon of 31st December. APPENDIX T. Prices of some articles of Farm Proiluce in Victoria during the past Season. Oats, per 100 lbs $2 00@2 50 Barley, Rough, per 100 lbs 2 25(f()2 50 Do Chevalier, " " 2 50^r.2 75 Wheat, 4 c J cts. Jets. 30 pets. V'-* APPENDIX. ZXVll. N. B. Under the former tnriff, recently supcracdfd by the Gen- eral Tariff of the Dominion, lui import duty ot 30 cents per 100 lbs. was levied on Hurley and Oats ; on Wheat, 35 cents per 100 Ibd { and on Potatoes, 50 cents per 100 tbs. APPENDIX V. Present prices in Victoria of some Articles of Ordinary Familt/ consumj>tion. Sugar, Sandwich Islands No. 1, per lb 12} cts. Do. Do. Do Lower qualities, per lb 9, 10 & lie. Refined, per lb 17@20 cts. Tea, from 35 to 75 cents according to quality. Tea, Japan, per lb 75 cts. Coffee, Raw " 20@30 cts. Flour, extra fine, per bbl. of 200 lbs $7 00@7 50 Do fine, in sacks GOO Do ordinary '* 5 00 Bacon, per lb., Chicago 20 cts. Home 25 cts. Butter salt, per lb., California 30 cts, Home 40 cts. Fr sh 50 cts. Beef, fresh, per lb 12J@18 c. Pork, " " " '« Mutton," " *' " Fish of various kinds, perlb I 6to8c.at the Salmon, " j regular shops N. B. Fish can be obtained from the natives very cheaply. Salmon frori 25 to 50 cents each, or from 1 to 2 cents per lb. ; when very abundant, cheaper. Oysters, too, very cheaply. Salted Salmon per bbl. of 200 lbs $ 7 00 Do. Oolahans " " " 7 00 Syrup, refined, per keg of 5 gallons 5 75®6 00 Molasses, Sandwich Island, per gallon 30 Clothing generally, including duty, at a moderate advance oa Invoice ; Canadian manufactures of course enter duty free. All importations are under the General Tariff of Canada. On the 1st July, among other proposed reductions. Tea and Coffee will come in duty free. N. B. The consumption of Sugar (except refined) is met almost entirely by importations direct from the Sandwich Islands — the quality very superior. From the same source there is also a con- siderable importation of other produce, including Oranges, Bananas and other semi-tropical fruits. The chief supply of flour has hitherto been from Oregon ; but in the Interior a sufliciency is now manufactured to meet the local demand, or nearly so, the Indian population being great consumers. From San Francisco, among other productions, are imported Oranges, Grapes, &c., in great profusion during their season, together with native wines of very good quality. Other foreign wines, since the reductioa of the ZZVUl. APPENDIX. high datj till recently imposed, are procurable at a moderate advance for the importer's profit. So of malt liquors from London. Excellent beer is, however, brewed in the Proviucn at a rate rather in advance of the ordinary English price. APPENDIX W. Ho^taU. There are three Public Hospitals in the Province, supported by private contributions with Government aid One at Victoria, another at New Westminster, the third in Caribou. In addition to these there is the Naval Hospital at Esqnimalt for the accommodation of H. M.'s fleet; and in Victoria a private hospital supported by the French Benevolent Society, APPENDIX X. " Tlieatre. The Theatre, though small, is suflQciently commodious for the present. There is no regular Management, and the performances are dependent on the visits of occasional troupes, some of no mean ability, who annually visit Victoria. |Prominent among these performers may be mentioned the late Charles Kean and Mrs. Kean, who performed here for a series of nights some years ago, under invitation. Amateur theatricals and concerts are occasion- ally performed for the promotion of special objects: and among its other utilities, the Theatre is frequently the arena of Public Meetings, when of course much fervid eloquence " splits the ears of the groundlings." APPENDIX Y. Qas and Water. Victoria is adequately supplied with the former by a Company incorporated for the purpose; and with water, by pipes laid down by another Company, supplemented by carts — the source of supply being certain springs on a ridge near the town. Surveys are now iu progress with the object oi introducing a more copious supply from a lake, distant some six miles from the town. "go, asion- imong ublic ears inny )vvn low bply APPENDIX.. APPENDIX Z. ZXIX. A table of Latitudes and ■^Longitudes of some places in British Columhia, as determined hy the Royal Engineers. station. Latitude Approx. Nortli. ;Long. West. Alexandria, ... 52°33M0'' 122' '26'56'' Anderson, - - - 50 32 13 122 35 22 Antler, - - . 52 58 44 121 26 22 Aaananny, _ - - 52 24 40 126 30 7 Beaver Creek, Cut off Valley, 51 7 6 121 39 59 Beaver Lake. Sellers' Hotel, - 52 29 19 121 55 4 Beaver Pass house, Lightning Creek, 53 3 58 121 52 49 Bridge River, mouth. - 50 45 33 122 3 53 Bridge Creek house, - . 51 39 2 121 24 58 Campment du Chevreuil, . 49 20 57 121 8 34 Cameron's Farm, 12 m. from Cotto nwood 53 1 38 122 14 28 Campment des Femmes, - 49 32 29 120 45 28 Chanthopeen Lake, - - 52 8 53 124 30 43 Cottonwood, - - - _ 53 33 122 5 7 Cokelin, . - - . 52 22 41 125 50 24 Douglas, ... - 49 45 20 122 11 4 Esquimau, V. L, Duntze Point, . 48 25 40 123 26 46 (Fort Colvile, U.S.,) - . 48 38 3 118 7 19 Fort George, - - - - 53 53 29 122 45 1 Fountain, - - - - 50 44 44 122 1 26 Garry Point, - - - - 49 7 5 123 11 17 Green Lake, opposite Crescent Island, 51 23 4 121 29 9 Harrison River, Mouth, . 49 14 25 121 54 34 Hat River, Mouth, - 50 54 7 121 33 30 Hope, . 49 22 21 121 27 58 Keithley, - - - - 52 45 21 121 28 32 Koom-ko-otz, - 52 22 36 126 47 34 Lake La Hache, East end, (camp) - 51 49 41 121 35 57 Lake La Hache, West end, - . 51 51 50 121 44 10 Langley Barracks, . 49 12 9 122 35 14 Lillooet, Court House, . 50 41 49 122 2 28 Lillooet Lake, 29-mile house. . 50 3 122 35 42 Lytton, - - . . 50 13 45 121 40 19 Marmot Lake, . 53 25 121 35 33 New Westminster, . 49 12 47 122 53 19 Nimpoh, (camp) _ 52 22 51 125 13 48 North River, opposite mouth. . 50 39 3 120 27 20 Okinagan Lake, head of, - 50 21 13 119 26 35 Osoyoos Lake, - 49 1 52 119 36 55 Pavilion Mountain, North base. - 50 59 15 121 58 37 Pemberton, ... . 50 17 32 122 43 15 Puntzee, - - - . 52 12 10 124 2 24 Quesncl River, mouth, _ 53 17 122 27 6 Quesnel River, Lower Ferry, Donaldson's 62 58 15 122 26 52 XXX, APPENDIX. Station. Quesnel River, Forks, Round Prairie, Pliillips' Farm, Richfield, Court house, Salmon River, Grand Prairie, Seton, .... Seton Lake, West end, Shtooiht, .... Snowshoe house, 1 miles from Antler, Swift River, mouth, ... Tahartee Lake, ... Vanwinkle, Court house, Vermillion Forks, Williams Lake, Court house, Yale, Latitude | North. 52°39'42'" 52 47 57 53 3 9 50 28 34 50 40 18 50 42 25 • 52 21 36 52 55 53 7 39 52 24 32 53 1 31 49 27 42 52 9 24 49 33 44 Approx. Long. West. 121°42'52''' 122 23 49 121 33 55 119 47 35 122 5 47 122 26 43 126 6 16 121 27 22 122 28 34 123 2 49 121 44 42 120 28 52 122 13 32 12' " 58 t APPENDIX A-2. Table showing the Approximate Altitudes above the Sea of some places in British Columbia from Observations by Officers of the Royal Engineers. Central District. febt. Boston Bar settlement 472 Court-House at Lytton 780 Thompson's River — mouth of the Nicola 788 The Lakes (Venables') 2,170 Ashcroft Farm (Cornwall's) 1,508 Bounaparte River — mouth of Maiden Creek 1,905 Summit Altitude of trail from Green Lake to Bridge Creek.. 3,660 Bridge Creek House 3,086 Lake la Hache 2,488 Deep Dreek (South) at the Crossing 2,255 Court-House, William's Lake , 2,135 The Springs Farm 1,850 boda Creek crossing 1,690 Mud Lake 2,075 Fort Alexandria, Fraser level 1,420 Summit Altitude of trail from Mud Lake to Beaver Lake 3,300 Beftver'Lake—Sellers' Hotel 2,110 The " Green timber," South limit 2,880 Little Lake House 2,535 Summit of trail thence to Quesnelle Forks 3,375 Quesnel City 1,958 MitcheU's Bridge, North branch of Quesnel River- 2,120 ■» \ kpprox. ag. West. 042'52'' 23 49 33 55 1 47 36 ! 5 47 ! 26 43 J 6 16 L 27 22 I 28 34 ) 2 49 L 44 42 3 28 62 2 13 32 1 <■.;'■ 68 bk.. he Sea of ixtions hy FBBT. 472 780 788 2,170 1,508 1,905 3,660 3,086 2,488 2,265 2,135 1,860 1,690 2,075 1,420 3,300 2,110 2,880 2,535 3,376 1,958 2,120 APPENDIX. ZZZl. Gabiboc District. fbbt. caribou Lake 2,566 Snow-shoe Creek, Leon's house 4i^20 Snow-shoe Peak 6,130 Snow-shoe Mountain, Leon's house 5,844 Antler Creek Settlement 4,010 Milk Farm, Malony's 4,490 Summit of trail over Mount Agnes to Lightning Creek 5,850 Marmot Peak 6,310 Marmot Lake 5,540 Richfield Court-House 4,216 Van Winkle Court-House 3,654 Cottonwood 2,530 Fraser River, at Mouth of Quesnel River 1,490 Do. at Mouth of Swift River 1,530 Do. at Fort George 1,690 By the Lillooet Route. R. E. Observatory, New Westminster 54 Harrison Lake... 71 Douglas Court-House 125 Hot Spring House (Temp, of Spring, 130°— Dr. Seddall, R.E.) 474 Lillooet Lake 620 Summit Lake 1,482 Anderson Lake 958 Seton Lake 898 Fraser River at Lillooet (June level) 692 Fountain .* 1,291 Capt. Martley's Farm-house 2,505 The Grotto, Pavilion Mountain 3,989, Summit of Road, do. do 5,012 46th Mile Post, Cut-oflF Valley 2,973 Cut-oft" stream near head of Valley 2,340 Buonaparte River at the Mound 2,144 Junction of do. with Hat River 1,686 Head of Great Chasm 3,053 Immediately below in Chasm 2,724 Green Lake 3,164 By the Bentinck Arm Route. Nookeetz (ruined village) 107 Asananny do. 227 Nooskultzt do. 316 Nootkleia (inhabited village) 392 Shtooiht (Springs) 464 Foot of Great Slide on Atnah-coh River 1,110 Summit of the Great Slide 2,230 Summit of the Mountain above the Slide 2,890 Hotharko Brook, at foot of Precipice 2,490 Summit of the Precipice 3,840 Nimpoh 3,601 Lake Towteestsan 3,580 zzxu. ^ppxhdix. rBBT. Summit Altitude of the trail on the Plateau 4,360 Summit Lake 4,020 Lake Chantslar 1 3,820 . Lake Chanthopeen 3,780 [N.B. — Tb« ^Bentiuck Arm route baa been abaudoued for some years.] APPENDIX B-2. Extract referred to at page 86. A visit to Nanaimo, the seat of King Coal, never fails to im- press observant and reflecting peisons with fresh consciousness of the power which that sable monarch is destined to wield on the North Pacific. The Vancouver Coal Company are opening up the Nanaimo Mines very extensively. Douglas Pit, a largely produc- tive mine, is still competent to, and for the most part does, supply present demand. But, iu anticipation of increased demand, works are being rapidly developed at various other points. The deep pit, three hundred feet below the surface, will win several square miles of coal. Workmen have only just commenced to drive out from the bottom of this shaft and are crossing what in mining parlance is termed a " fault," which has somewhat dislo- cated the strata immediately above and below the scam. But the coal, althoagb contorted considerably, is of excellent quality; and indications are met with onlj a few teet from the pit bottom show- ing that the termination of the "fault" cannot be far off. The ^eam is from six, to eight feet in thickness, and will continue to turn out the " Black Diamond" for an indefinite period. On New- castle Island the same Company have a splendid prospect. Here there are two seams being worked into, — the one known as New- castle, the other the Douglas. Both of these seams crop out near the water's edge, and are in every respect just as conveniently situated for working and shipping as one could well conceive or wish a coal mine to be. Newcastle seam is from eight to nine feet in thickness, and a " heading " is driven into it two hundred and fifty yards by way of exploration. This mine is fully ready to yield a regular out-put of excellent coal. The Douglas scam is explored by slope two hundred and seventy yards from the surface, the coal improving in thickness as the depth increases. At the bottom of the slope, the formation is divided into two parts, — thus : three and a half feet of coal, and two and a half feet of indurated clay, and over the clay there are three feet of coal. As the slope deepens, the fire-clay grows thinner, and experienced miners argue confi- dently, from this gradual convergence 01 the two seams of coal, that they will be found to join not far off. There appears to be no reasonable ground of doubt as to the extent and continuity of these Island coals, as both seams are found in proper position on both sides of the Island. Wharf accomodation, and the best and most APPENDIX. xxxlii. PEKT. . 4,360 . 4,020 , 3,820 . 3,780 ir somo show- The nue to New- Here New- lit near niently eive or ne feet d and yield slored coal om of three clay, jpena, confi- coal, be no these both most complete appliances and facilitlca for shipping the coal are bciiiK projected and provided as fast as tbo worlis can be proceeded with. Other explorations for deep coal aro about to bo made. It will be impos?ibIc to dwell upon tho very complete, substantial, and cxten.'^ive character of thf> Company's works and machinery. The.. Here the indomitable perseverance of Mr. Dunsmuir was rewarded by finding a seam of very superior coal, having a thickness rang- ing from eight to thirteen feet, and in a position highly favorable to profitable development. This mine is about three miles distant from the point of shipment on Departure Bay and has been worked for more than a twelvemonth. A very substantial wooden tramway has been constructed from the mine to the water, where large and commodious wharves have been built. At present the coal is transported in trams drawn by horses; but the enterprising manager has resolved that in the course of another year tho wooden rail shall be superseded by the iron, and the horse by tho locomotive steam engine. This cursory and necessarily very in- complete sketch may suffice to show that British Columbia pos- sesses great coal stores and that she is not altogether unprepared to meet the greatly increased demand almost certain very soon to be made upon these stores. It also points to the great importance of Nanaimo, the Newcastle of tho Dominion." — British Colonist, Avgust Voth, 1872. APPENDIX C-9. Notes rcfjardinf) the Stone-quarr)/ at Nanaimo. From "■ BntUlt Colonist'''' neiosjiapcr — August^ 1872. the "Nanaimo is endowed with greater natural wealth than, per- haps, any other part of the wide Dominion of Canada. Her coal measures already opened formed the subject of a recent article. Iler coal stores still locked might fill a book. In these practically inexhaustible stores Nanaimo possesses n, power which must com- pel Commerce and Manufacture to kneel at her feet. But Nanaimo has a mine of wealth of a different kind — the Newciistle Stono Quarry. This quarry has been worked for upwards of two years, and yet it may be said to be scarcely opened. Here are sevcrtil square miles of a continuous formation of the best free-stone to be found anjTvhero on the coast. No more conclusive evidence of the superiority of this stone need bo sought than the fact that tho United States Mint at San Francisco is made of it. The mint cost considerably over a million and a half, and absorbed eight thousand J I XXXIT. APPENDIX. m tons of tlic Newcastle stone. Tlie introduction of this stone for so important a purpose naturnlly aronsed a certain amount of local jealousy ami brouylit out some international prejudice. The consequence was that the stone was subjected to a rather more severe test tiian would otherwise have been the case. It is gratify- ing to learn thai the United States Inspector has, in his recent final report, given tiic stone the highest character. To possess a stone quarry so superior in every respect as to command the patronage of San Francisco and overcome the prejudices of the Great Re- public is something of which Nanaimo may justly be proud. We have said that the .San Francisco Mint took eigiit thousand tons of this stone. In addiiion to this it took a large quantity of flagging- stone tor court-yard, side-walks, and cellar. In the eight thousand tons were some pieces deserving of specific notice. There were six columns, twenty-eight feet long, by four feet two inches square. These columns were faultless throughout. There were two stones for corner pediment lifteeu tons each, and two key stones of four- teen tons each. One circumstance Ims tended seriously to lessen the profits of the quarry. Every stone going to make up the eight thousand tons for the mint has been of specific dimensions; and in quarrying to fill the order a great deal of such stone as would be used for smaller buildings or for rubble masonry has gone to waste oAving to there being no demand for it. Of this waste stone there has been enough to realize fifty thousand dollars in a market presenting a local dem i id for it. And yet it has not yielded fifty cents. Nay, to remove it out of the way has cost thousands of dollars. We have said that the quarry is scarcely fairly opened. The last cargo of stone sent to San Francisco has been pronounced of a superior quality to that previously sent. It is well understood that the quality of the stone improves as you go in. The ((uarry has now an excellent and carefully prepared " face" on it, from whicli stone may be taken superior in point of quality to any yet quarried, and of almost any conceivable dimen- sions. Columns fifty feet long (or one hundred if necessary) by four and a half feet thick can be supjdied, without flaw or fault in them; or if necessary, blocks fifteen feet square can be taken out. This quarry is doubtless destined to exert more or less in- fluence upon the cliaracter of our i)ublic buildings. Amongst other things the Federal Government have undertaken to erect a Custom-house, Post-ofTice, Penitentiary, and Marine Hospital in this Province. It is of no little importance that the Newcastle Quarry, so convenient and accessible for sliipping, stands prepared to supply the necessary stone for these; and the facilities thus presented for obtaining the larger sections of the finest stone will doubtless encourage the Dominion Government to indulge in a class of architecture that might be considered unattainable under less auspicious circumstances. When the United States authori- ties have sent all the w.ay to Nanaimo for stone to construct the mint at San Francisco, tlie Dominion Government cannot well en- tertain the idea of employing less desirable matt'rial in the con- struction of the Federal buildings here. Persons visiting Nanaimo should not come away without "doing" Newcastle Quarry. A visit to it will repay the trouble, and will always bo rendered en- I joynble by the kind Iiospi deservedly popular less popular nianaecr, Mr. xXitfLtiugaieV, xxxr. less nn,.„i„. „.'„ ' ..' ".V"'.' J- <^'- Ouwes, Esq., aud of the - e no APPENDIX D-2. TJiefolloiouig tahh of AimroximnU /)/<,/ 7 «, 2?i Ajipendix 0-2. ^^utttut/, A. A., woitcec^ D.,.,»«s .„„. „„.„ K„,s.a ™ E»...»„ „, „,. „,„,„,,.^ „„^.^_^_ ""'"" s?„iS;,°'; i"'"'* "<"•» ("""E Ko„« ""• ""»•• »->■• Dinancc Ovorl„„d i^Sn^-lu^;:^^-;, '-',000 1,0 bouthampton) *' ^ " to Soutaampton), l,y storn ;,„d ;.ii;;:^ 1,,12, 3, D,,T«o.s ,„„„ Sv„».v TO E»„.„„ „, ,„, „„,,„^,^^ Sy^nc, .„ S„„.,.™p,„„ , c or G„.„ „„„e „,,3„ „„„, ■>»• do": b^'l=;■.;.■a;;i•::::::::•;;>= ;; APPENDIX E-2. The following oxlracl i, t.kcn ft-on, Dr. Carle, Fori,™' Essa,.- Several poles of tlic Ereatesl n ,?.!? 1 ',""''°"' breaking, -d .be .op of .Ke ,ree -.°:rU;:^Se5"cI1.1reVi;'i«;£ xxxvi. APPENDIX. m of the same dimensions cut from a Riga spar of first-claee, and the following result was found : Maximum degree of hcniling'\ Vancouver Pine. Riga Pine. before rupture at the foot j Om 025 Om 028 At the Lead o 019 o Old Mean Charge of rupture (per centimeters tsquarcd at the foot At the head 022. 23k IG 11. 19 93 Density of wood at the foot of the tree. Density at the hc;id 636. 478. 022 2n . 00 19 08 20 23 726 532 056 629 These experiments give a mean almost Identical, for the bending and breaking of the two kinds of wood, while the density ditlers notably to the advantage of the Vancouver wood. The only question still undecided i.s that of durability. The masts and spars of Vancouver arc wood.^ rare and exceptional for dimensions and superior qualities, strength, lightness, absence of knots and other grave vices. "Toulon," September 21, 18G0. Signed, L. A. Svlvesteh, Du Perron, Chief Engineer of 3d Section. The /ollouing from an Essay hy the Rev. It. C. L. Brown. The following extract from the Oardener's Chronicle, is given by a recent number oT the British Columbian newspaper : "The remarks lately made in our columns on the very great value of tho'uoL'GLAS fih, have led one of the most skilful of our judges of timber to favour us with the following highly important information. This lir wood, Mu. Wm. Wilson Saunders, F. R. S., of Lloyd's, has had many opportunities of examining carefully; and, in order to satisfy one of our largest importers, he has made some careful experiments on its strength and flexibility in compar- ison with other similar woods. The following table, with which he has favored us, gives the result, which is in the highest degree satisfactory. Mr. Wilson Saunders has a regular machine for these experiments, and the results can be implicitly relied on. Lengths of the woods enumerated in the following table, care- fully squared to 1} inch, were submitted to pressure of weights pendent from the centre, the lengths being supported between standards exactly 6 feet apart. The weight at which each broke and the amount of deflection from the horizontal Uue at the time of breaking, are given in the following table: AITSMDIX. XXXVll. 23 IbR. Inches. Douglas Fir 280 4 Fracture, ronjrli and long. Pitch Pine 280 4 '* short and even. Canada Spruce 196 4.7 " short and rough. Red Pine 1(58 6 '• rough. Larch — British 1C8 6.2 «• short and even. Deodar from Himalaya... 154 3.8 " short. The Bpcciracns experimented upon were carefully selected from the best description of wood, and free from all defects. The de- flection is given in inches and tenthsof an inch. Each wood had two trials, and the figures give a mean result." Dr. Lindley commenting on these tables goes on to say: " It will bo thus seen that none of the firs approached in strength the Douglas or the Pitch Pine; it having required the weight of 280 lbs. to break a small bar of their wood, no more than an inch and a quarter square. A hundred and sixty-eight pounds broke a piece of British Larch of the same scantling. Moreover, be- tween the Douglas Fir and Pitch Pine, whoso strength was equal, there is this great difference, that while the latter sna])ped short under a pressure of 280 lbs., the Douglas yielded unwillingly with a rough and long rend." APPENDIX F-2. by Note P. S. referred to at page C7. The winter of 1835-3C is here referred to. Crossing the Ilocky Mountains from Tete Jaune's Cache to Jasper's in September, on foot, I had returned with a party of some 22 persons, with horses. After embarking in our canoes and descending Fraser River a few miles, wo were ice-bound — the winter being premature in an un- wonted degree — about the 23rd of October. Short of provisions, and unable to make our way downwards owing to the unequally frozen condition of the stream, we made a cache of the canoes and their contents, at a point noted in Arrowsmith's map, and retraced our steps to Jasper's — the snow being about nine inches deep at the Summit of the Pass The supplies obtainable at Jasper's were inadequate to our wants; and we had to continue our retreat down the Athabasca, and across to Edmonton on the Saskatche- wan, There we obtained copious supplies, with dog-sledges to convey them. Leaving some of the party there, to follow in tho Spring, we set out on our return. We had experienced some littlo difficulty on the way down: but the return-trip, being now pro- vided with snow-shoes, warm clothing, and plenty o( pemican, was performed with comparative comfort, — the journey from Edmonton to Stuart's Lake occupying only 46 days. It was on this return trip that the observations noted in the text were made. The depth of the snow for a short distance at the summit of the Pass was about eight feet — but it was melting very fast at the period of our passage, about the 1st January, and there was a warm rain falling. zxxviii. APPENDIX. This thaw, ns shewn in the text, was repeated (an interval of two days' cold Imving J«eou ineanwhilo fxpcricnced) below Tetc Jaune'a Caclic : and I conjecture was likewise repeated at the siunniit, where we had first experienced it. It may he added that the iliaw in (luestion, as we afterwards ascertained, was not experienced in the lower parts of Fraser iliver, remote from the mountains, where continuous cold, of remarkable severity, had prevailed throughout. The object, it may bo explained, of the communication at that time maintained through the Tete Jaune Pass, was for the occasi- onal conveyance of dressed Moose-leather, supplied from the abundance of the Saskatchewan, for the use ofiStuart's Lake and the surrounding Posts, where it was much in demand. Hence the route in questiou has been frequently culled the Leather-l'ass. APPENDIX G-2. Before concluding, the Writer thinks it well to o,ppcnd a memo- randum of the princip'al Works treating directly or indirectly of the subject in issue which he can recall to memory, and from Avhich much vr.li.dble information can be obtained. From this list, he has designedly excluded the book of a Mr. McDonald, who Avrote, i)rofessing to give an account of British Columbia, some years ago. The Writer has no desire to criticise the work in question, which, indeed, he has had no opportunity of judging, save from extracts that have been largely ({uoted b^ the Press : but these extracts convey an impression so utterly at variance with the observation.s of others, that, were the contrary not known, ho might have inferred that the Author had never set foot within the Province. The valuable ,,"• k of Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle will, hov.cver, have since corrected many of the false impressions which the former work was calculated to convey; and the only object in here noticing Mr. McDonald's production is to put those on their guard who may have imbibed such impressions through reading it, without having subsequently met with the salutary corrective. For a similar reason the Writer proceeds to notice a commentary on the climate of a portion of British Columbia which appeared some years ago; and which, as emanating from a higher and better- known authority, was calculated, if uncorrected, to convey aa impression more permanently injurious. The passage in question appeared in the Colonization Circular o{ ISGl, and was from the pen of Mr. John Maclean, formerly a Wintering Partner of the Hudson's Bay Company, and now residing in Canada. The Writer's attention was called to the subject, senii-officially, by the Governor of the period, the present Sir James Douglas: and he in conse- quence wrote a reply to the remarks, which was, it is presumable, oflBciftlly employed and is here reproduced. kntary leared letter- fcy an htioa the If the liter's jrnor ise- lable, t * APPENDIX. XZXIX. Virroni.v, V. I., January 3, 18G2. Sir, — My attention has been (lircctcil to a passage in a recent number of tlie Coliniizulion Circulnr, iiaving ret'ereiiee to the ciiintito of Stuart's Lake in llritish ('olunibia. I notice it the more readily sinee it stands in juxtaposition to another passage in \yliieh my own name appears. Wlien Mr. McLean mentions his having witnessed so great a variation of temperature during a single day, he omits, (nsi|U()ted) to advise his readers that such a day was an exceptional instance and not the rule. So far from presenting anywise an ungenial climate, Stuart's Lake is an extremely pleasant place (.!' residence — at least so 1 have always regarded it. The various wild fruits flourish and ripen ; and even the crop of the service-t)erry, whiih when in tlower you arc aware is extremely susceptible to frost, is rarely blighted. Potatoes do not always succeed, it is true; but the failure may, I think, be ascribed usually to errors in the selec- tion of the spots cultivated. Some attention to this point is neces- sary, in order to avoid the occasional night-frosts to which the hollows are subject, but from which the slopes towards the Lake are usually free. No better evidence that the climate is on the whole a genial one need be adduced than this — that the tender little humuiing-l)ird is common during summer at Stuart's Lake as well as in the less elevated and hotter parts oflJritish Columbia. I need not recall Your Kxcellency's attention to the fact that a difference of temperature, equal to at least ten degrees of Ijati- tude, exists during winter between positions on the I'acific Coast, as compared with others on the Atlantic. The difFeren'^e is more marked as we approach the Coast on either side ;' but is likewise very perceptible in the Interior of British Columbia, where the cold is neither so frequently severe nor so continuous as on the Eastern side of the Uccky Mountains. I have the honor to be, To His Excdhnni \ &c. &c. &c. Governor Djufflas, C. B. / (Signed) %%•"!• 1 \\'orks of Reference. Vancouver's Voyage on N. W. Const of America, 1700-95. Voyage of Portlock and Dixon on N. W. Coast of America. Voyage of Meares on N. W. Const of America. Voyage a la Cote du Noid Ouest dans les Ann.'es 1810-15, par Gabriel riancherc. Travels of Sir Alex. McKenzic to the Pacific Ocean, &c., in the years 1789-93. Ross Cox's Columbia River. Jewett's Narrative of a captivity at Nootka Sound in 1804. An Essay onVancouver Island by Dr. Charles Forbes, R. N., 18(32. A work on Vancouver Island by J. D. Pemberton, Esq., Sur- veyor General of the former Colony. — London 18G2. Travels of Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle. A work on the West Coast of Vancouver Island by Gilbert M. Sproat, Esq. zl. AITENDIX. Ovcrlntiil Roiito through British Nortli Amcru-n, hy Alfred Waddinplon. — Longmnns, London, 1808. Odiciiii Ucport on Uritiih Coliimbiiv of the Hon. If. L. Liuigcvin, Minister of Piil)iic Workr; of Cnnadn, 1871. Vaneoiiver Island and British Cohinibiii, by Dr. Ruttrny, R. N. There is also a work treating of the North-West Coast by John Dunn, a yoiinp; mua formerly in tho cnii»ioy of tho Iludson'ii Bay Company as a t^torekeopcr, Ac, which Rivos,! believe, a good deal of information about tho Const, in its condition prior to coloni- r.ation. NoTB P. S. Sinoo tho preparation of the above list two works, treating of British Columbia, of recent date, have been brought under my notice ; which, with tho reviewer's comments upon ono of them, form tho text for some remarks which I judge it necessary to make in tho Supplementary Chapter. A copy of ono of theso works — called, I think, " Queen Charlotte Islands " — by u Mr. C. E. Poole, I have seen and cursorily perused. Tho other, styled " Very Far West Indeed," written professedly by a Mr. U. Byron Johnson, I am acquainted with only through tho columns of tho Sulurdny Review of 25th May last. Theso works may bo rt-.-'d as romances — provided, and jirovided only, they bo suflicientlj at tractive as such ; n very questionable proposition : but as convey- ing, in tho reviewer's words, any " useful hints as to how and "where to settle in British (/olumbia, to the emigrant who has a " natural taste for ' bars and Injuns,' or whose sense of daring is •• tickled by the Rapids of the Traser," both are worse than worth- less — they are ineffably deluFive, In the first wo have very won- derful adventures by flood and field. Bears of course figure con- spicuously ; Indians are shot down — on paper at least — as coolly, and with as little compunction, as a Cockney sportsman " pots " sparroivs. Formidable trails are followed over imaginary moun- tains " sixteen thousand " feet in height; and an ordinary canoo voyage, which had been performed scores of times before, and ia now almost weekly performed by unpretending ' "wellcrs passing to and fro, is magnified into an exploit exceeding that of Captain Bligh, of *' Bounty " celebrity, with which it is .specially and most audaciously contrasted. Withal it maybe said that the author does not apparently seek to convey an injurious impression of tho Province as a field for settlement. Ifis faults proceed from a queer idiosyncrasy, which prompts him, where personally concerned, to view every matter through a magnifying glass, to tho constant exaltation of his own individual prowess. The other work, with nil the faults of the first, contains some astounding slatcments, even more reprehensible, if possible, from an extrancoun point of view: and, if we may judge from the extracts, is allogethcr con- ceived in a spirit of exaggeration and detraction, with motives which we will not attempt to analyse. A notorious stcara-boat story, for instance — apocryphal at the best — has been taken from the stock traditions of the Lower Mississipi, and adapted to ■ > meridian of the Fraser. Aga.m a, sensational cnecdote of a'i mining adventure in Caribou, resulting in an asserted cxc under " Lynch-law," is gravely related. Whether tho occu ever happened in any place we cannot pretend to say — bui ,\n w APPENDIX. sU ♦ rntxy bo snftly afHrmcd, that it never occurred in any pnrt of Hritixh Columbia ; neitluT it nor any other iiniiliir nioc of •' liVtH-h-inw." Mirticuloiis riipiild are rnniiliurly tulked of, situated niidwtiy in tho courneoftho Friiser, and yet 1, '200 miles from its source — the the wlicde length of the river meanwhile not exceediiip rtoo miles. Wc will nay nothinj? of the want of ^ood taste that pervades the work — manifested in many unjustifiahlc personal nilusions — the truth of the assertions in one particular case having moreover heeu directly controverted — and notably in the coarse sneer at the reli- gious persuasion of ii respectable dealer of tho Tppcr Cou' try, whoso name is brought incidental!" and unwarrantably on the carpet. Nor will we comment on thi- oarbaroua slang which is pnl forward as characteristic of tho Country : as if people hero habit- ually talked of " bars and Injuns and grizzlies ;" or that the edu- cated Americiin gentlemen who form a highly-respected portion of the community, employ a jargon which, if employed at all, is con- fined to the rudest classes of the remote interior States. Knough, however, of these productions, which I have been reluctantly brought to notice. It is a relief to refer once more t(i the healthily-written book of Lord Milton and Dr. Cheadle, bcfora noticed ; an the other h," &o. Qtry inhab- of the Ta- ■ibe. This ) from tho er's Lake ; derstood. ■t in a late has been '), so as to n Fraser, eja-c6h is ' descrip- )ncile the t Lon- t Lon- Lxme Gen-