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Lorsque la document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul ciich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mSthode. rata elure, 3 32X I 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 Modern Antiquities: Comprising Sketches of Early Buffalo and the Great Lakes Also Sketches of Alaska Bv Barton Atkins The Courier Company, Printers and Binders Burtalo, New York 1898 « -* ^ ~* 1 %.::. } ' C. ■7 / EXPLANATION. This writing is in manner provincial. Literary merit is not essayed, anh for its demerits no apoloi'.y is ofkerki). ;J^»>( OF C0*>^.^ TWOCnF'itS.HtGtIvED. IHCOPY, Uc^V^^ 180a. n ™„ ,-..a\ Col'VHKjHTKD, 18H8, By Barton Atkins. I'- u. MODERN ANTIQUITIES. CHAPTER I. Av the burning of Huffalo in 1818 its earlier m-- ords were destroyed. From recollectionH of early res- idents, and from letters of early travelers, written hence, were construeted a history of the early trading- post and the subsequent village of New Amsterdam. The inunediate aneestors of the writer were early residents of the locality, and of its legendary lore he was invested with a liberal share, which, together with the records of the reconstructed village of Buffalo, form a basis for the claim that such history as is herein presented is the truth of it. About the year 1790 is the date when lame the first white settler, and who erected the first building where now is the poj)ulous city of Buttah). The historic pioneer was a Hollander and aii Indian trader, nan»ed Cornelius Winne, from Fishkill on the Hudson. Thus, in reality, it was the Hollander, Winne, and not Elli-" cott, the agent of HoUanders, who was the foimder of Buffalo. :ff « MODKUN ANTiylJlTIKS. Th« coinmeiviiil iiiiportiuioi! of Winiif'H «l«)miiiii was of slow fjrowtli diinii}? tlio reiniiindt'i- of tht- cuiituiy. Ill 171»l Col. TlioiiiiiH I'foctor, an ciniHSiiry of the Sec- retary of War, cauit' to \Vest«'ni Now York to tii-ut with tilt- Seneca Iiiut a fighting patriot as well. Prior to the war of 1812 he was sailing the waters of Lake Erie, master of the schooner SaUnn, and when war eaiue was proiniil to join the navy, and in the battle of Lake Erie was com- mander of the Ohio, one of Perry's fighting fleet. All honor to the inemory of Capt. Daniel Dobbins ! . Three years subseciuent to the visit of Captain Dob- bins, in 1798, Albert Brisbane visited the trading- post "Lake Erie," and found its poimlation further increased. " There were five or six h)g-houses. In one John Palmer kept a tavern, in one lived Asa Kansom and family, in another James Kobbins. a blacksmith, and in a double house lived Johnston, the interi)reter. 8KETCIIKM OK KAKKY nrKK.VI.O. Ill Wits iitiiry. If Sei!- trt)ut Dst he tli*> and Miililaiigli, with his son-iii-hivv, ii man naiiiftl K/.t*kiah Laiu-, who was a coopfi-." Mithhiu^'h liad H(|uatt»'(l over tlic «Tt!»'k, altoiit opposite the present foot of Main Htr«et, where lie lived an Indian trader until his death, in IM'?''). Lane was a resiih-nt in liiiffalo uiitil his death, in 18(5;") — a eeiitenarian. Mr. Hrishane found that Winne and Black ifoe had sought other pastures— Winne in Canada, and .loe on the Cattaraugus reservation, where he lived many years, dying at an advanced age. Joe I lodge had lived among the Indians a long time, spoke their lan- guage fluently, and had an Indian family. Was said to have eseaj)ed from slavery when a hoy, and took refuge with the Seneeas. In the year 1800, dating from Fort Niagara, Rev. Elkanah lltdmes, a missionary from New York, wrote to his j)rineipals as follows: I tlion took leave of him (Farnicr's Brother) auil wfiit to u villajfc of wliito iieoplc at tlu' moiitli of tlie Biiffaloe. While there, where I made my home during my visit to the Sineeus, I preached to the whites seven or eight times. They never laid lint one sermon i)'.ear!ied there before. Historians date Mr. Holmes' first appearance in Western New York in 1801, and to him they give credit of ])reaching the first sermon in Buffalo. It appears authoritively that he was there in 1*0^', and preached seven or eight times, and that there w.\h one sermon preached there before his. Mr. Holmes did not name the preacher of the first sermon, an omission '*T*^\'. Ay.vL.T. I ,. 8 MODKKN ANTlgriTIKH. t 1 fatal to a coiiipU'te rword of tlw pmuliinj; of tlif (ios])*-l in HiiiYalo. Tin- letter liere ([iioted, to^'etlier with a Hpeecli made to Mr. Holmes by Farmer'H Hrother, and another hy Hed Jacket, the eliief SaehemH of the Seneea Nation, were imhlished in the \rir Vork Mixnioitiii-ij Mat/nxhif of Deeeniher, IHOO. Herein is the first reiMiltlieatie Appendix. HKKTCIIKft OF K.AUI Y HIKKAI.O. 9 ! i >f the ■il llllKle |>tli('i' l>y Nation, '(if/(tiltii' ilit'iitioii fiiiiiilicH iiaiiii's. I)ut rt>. Sciu'caH, iTvatioii aci'iit to 1(1 Coin- cott. ap- , and in k'liifli lie n of the he town ])entei'8, iobhins, r. The U. He rohably MUC('»'«'(lese(piently pardoned i)y the (lovernor on condition that he leave and remain without the state, a condition faithfully complied with. The in- dustry of hanging Indians in HiiD'ah) was not :ij)e at that early perio«l. In 1803, David Keese, a hlacksmith, came to the Senecas, making their knives and hoes, repairing their guns, etc. P'or Hed Jacket he made a tomahawk, which was unsatisfactory to the hig Indian, he casting it on the ground with the utteratu-e, " No good." Then Heese was furnished with a jiattern of a w»'apon desired hy Red Jacket, and, when nuiking, Ree^e was admon- ished tv strictly follow the model, which instrutition was rigidly observed, and the illustrious savage had a tomahawk without a hole therein for a handle, and this is why he ever after called Kee.se " Damfool." Reese's shop stood on the northeast corner of Washington and Seneta streets, a frame building painted red, one of >e.;?;>2..-.P.A"'-' .j! .s--^..-»i- ni''! ■■ 'W ■■y':X";>-:Si:i.. 7:3 10 MO D K RN A XT I(i UITIES. three not burned by the Britisli, and where the bodies of the shiin villagers were gathered and prei)ared for bnrial. The little red shoj) eontinned to adorn that now })ietures(uu' corner nntil abont 1820. A school-house was erected in 1803 — a house of hewed timber — on Cayuga street (Pearl), west side, below Swan, The first i)hysician to locate in New Amsterdam was Dr. Cyrcnius Chapin, and there he continued to reside nntil his death, in 1838. Dr. Chapin was active on the frontier during the war of 1812, and valorous in defense of Buffalo in troublous times. He is recalled as a tall, si)ar(' and gray-visaged man, wra])ped in a h):ig cloak of blue cloth. As Indian Agent, .Judge Erastus (iranger called Dr. Chapin to attend Ked Jacket in his illness. The origir.al bill presented to Judge Granger for this ser- vice is possessed by the writer, dated December., 1806. The bill of Dr. Chapin reads as follows: Erastis (Jhangeb, Esq., Dr. To CVIIENIUS CHAI'IX. For medical iittuntion, nml for iikhI. dt'livered to lied Jacket, Nov. -), 180() : Two Knif'tics, . . • 4s. Croton Oil Pills Os. Sol. Tartar Eiiu'tii,- 3s. Spi(< niid Opium Plaster 4s. Pills of Croton Oil is. t'0.18.0 SKETCHES OF AKLY BUFFALO. 11 Lhe bodies jpart'tl for |f Samuel Pratt, on Crow street (Exchange), which then extended only from Main to Washingion street. In a wing of his dwelling, corner of Main and Crow streets, Louis Le Couteulx had a drug st )re, the Hrst in Buffalo. Where now is the Mansion House, John Crow kept a tavern. The first lawyer to locate in New Amsterdam was Ebenezer Walden, in 1806. And in 1811 Mrs. Wal- den presided at the first {)iano sounded in Buffalo. The first judge for Buffalo was Samuel Tupper, appointed in 1805 by Gov. George Clinton. Judge Tu])per resided on the southwest corner of Main and Tupper streets. His dwelling was destroyed in the burning of the villag; in 1813. After the war he erected a larger house on the site, where it remained until removed to the west side of Main street, below Allen, and where it still stands, a relii; of village days. The first street passenger line in Buffah) was estab- lished by Moses Baker, in 1825 — a line of stages to and from Black Rock. iii?l! !. I 14 MODKUN ANTlgUlTIES. n CHAPTER II. Thk prt'C't'diiig- cliajitcr relates to the coniing of the Hist wliite st'ttler to "Hutt'alo Creek," and the estab- lisliiiieiit of the tiadiug-post, "Lake Erie," and of the siibsecpient village of "New Amsterdam," and of events there occurring down to the year 1807. At that, period the settlers of the ))lace persisted in calling it Buffalo, in accord with the official name of its ))ost-office and the customs district. But not until 1826 were the DuU'h ap])ellations of the streets officially renounced and the jiresent names substituted. In 1808 an act of the legislature made Buffalo the county seat of Niagara County, the Holland Company donating lots, or wliich were erected a court-house and jail. T\ui court-house, a wooden structure, was located on the present line of Washington street, directly fronting the j)resent Public Library building. The jail was built of stone, and stood where now is the old Darrow block, on Washington street, opposite the Mooney-Brisbane building. These improvements added prestige to the town; settlers came, and its advance was rapid. The first court of record was held in 1808, at Lan- don's tavern, Augustus Porter, Judge, William Stew- \$\ L • iiig- of the tliL' t'-stab- aiid of tlie 1 of events tliat period it Buffalo, office and I were the renounced Buffalo the I Conij)any -house and i^as located t, directly ing. The low is the , opposite rovenients i, and its i, at Lan- ani Ste»y- SKETCHES OK EAKLY HUFKAU). art. District Attorney, Louis LeCouteulx, Clerk, and Asa Kansoni, Sheriff. Upon this court were four at- tendant lawyers, Kbene&er Walden, John Hoot and •lonas Harrison, of Buft'ah), and Bates Cook, of Lew- istoM. The records of the court went the way of all other records of early liuft'alo — uj) in smoke in the conflagration of 1813, hut in some nianner it has been preserved to history that at this session four men were indicted and tried for stealing a (!ow I The first brick buihling erected in the town of Buf- falo was by William Hodge, Sen., in 1806, on the lot now 1358 Main street. The bricks for the build- ing were manufactured by Mr. Hodge on the lot now occupied by the Jiapst building, corner of Main street and Glenwood avenue. The second brick structure in the town was erected on the lot now the north- east corner of Exchange and Washington streets, in 1810, by Benjamin Caryl, Juba Storrs and Samuel Fi-att, Jr. The flrst newspaper for Buffalo was the Gazette, published by Smith H. and Hezekiah Salisbury, in 1811. Copies of this publication are preserved in the Buf'alo Library. The first brewer known to Buffalo was Joseph Webb. In 1811 he atlvertised his brewery in the col- umns of the Gazette. In 1811 the first church organization in Buffalo was formed — "The First Congregational and Presby- i§ if . ■ . ii ■■'■-'- '! I. 16 MODKKN ANTIQUITIKS. I , ii j:i 1,1 terian Church" — numbering twenty -nine niemberH. as follows: •Ittuu's H. Hyde, HumIih Ilyilc, Sinniu'l AtkiiiM, Aniiu Atkins, John J. Sccley, Elizabeth Seeley, Stephen Franklin, Sarah Franklin, Amioh C'allender, hehet'ca Calleuder, Nathaniel Sill, Keziah Sill, Comfort Landon, Esther Pratt, Sarah Hoisington. Jahe/. (ioodell, Nani'v Hull, Uuth Foster, Keziah ("otton, Nancy Mather, Keziah Holt, Sally Haddock, S<))>hia Bull, Henry VVoodworth, Sophia (Hllett, Betsy Atkins, Mary Holbrook, Louis C^irtisH, Naney Harvey, For about four years the society retained its original title, when it was changed to "The First Presbyterian Church Society," a name still retained. The vicissi- tudes of war interrupted their meetings for fully three years. The Rev. Thaddeus Osgood was their first pastor. In May, 181G, in a buihling on the northeast corner of Main and Huron streets, erected for a car- penter shop, the Hev. Miles P. Sqiiier was installed pastor. Their old church, which gave place to the Erie County Bank bi'iUling, was erected in 1827. Its foun- dation stones were dug when constructing the canal at Porter avenue. The fi'"st butcher to open a meat market in Buffalo was Gilman Folsom, in 1808. His location was on SKETCHES OP EARLY BUFFALO. 17 ^ iiienilterH, lell, I. 'T, ton, her, It, ock, 1. xlwortli. ett, 18, 'ook, •fV, ts original esbyteriaii he vieissi- fiilly three their first northeast for a car- installed :i the Erie Its foun- ! canal at n Buffalo 1 was on the lot since occupied for a like purpose for half a century by Arnold Weppner, on Main street, below Chippewa. Folsom's slaughter-house was in the rear, ou Pearl street. In 1811 a war-cloud darkened the land. To frontier communities remote from the centers of population it was of much concern. When war came it brought appalling disaster to the village o? Buffalo, its inhabi- tants being compelled to flee from the flames of their burning homes in mid-winter to seek shelter in adja- cent settlements. Their village, with the exception of three buildings, was burned to ashes. Recently was published in a local newspaper a con- servative account of the burning and of the events leatUng thereto, which is new reading. The article is hereto apyended : The story of the burning of Buffalo eighty-three years ago has been told many times, but almost always from the point of view of the dwellers in the two villages where the city now stands. The men of Buffalo and Black Rook we - defending their own firesides, and Buffalonians are apt to think of them and their families as the only sufferers. It will be interesting to re>ad the story as seen by those who rallied from the sur- rounding country to aid in defense of Buffalo when its destruc- tion was threatened. When General Wilkinson retired in 1813 to lower Lake On- tario, he left the force on the Niagara in command of General McClure, who made his headtjuarlers on the Canadian side, at Fort George, where the doughty General issued flaming procla- mations, and when abandoning that position committed the need- less cruelty of burning the adjacent village, and turning helpless families out into winter's cold and snow. The inhuman act -.\-5src--; MI-"-^— '■ f flii 18 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. u\ V : I Its' •'if!' I brought condijfn imiiiMlmient on the American frontier. Then McClure moved his hca(li|uarlers to UufTah). The British, fired with tlie spirit of revenge, at once undert.tavia, where he arrived on De- cenilwr 23(1, and there he gave uj) the command to General Hall, who hurried on all the troops he could to Buffalo, which he reached December 25th, and did the bent he could to repel the invaders. The tale has often l)een told how small detachments of Amer- ican raw militia were one after another thrown against the enemy in the darkness at Conjockety Creek, and were in turn demoral- ized, many scattering through the wood in flight ; how the Brit- ish "ucceeded in landing at Black Rock ; how the enemy marched up from the Conjockety, dispersing such resistance as they met. General Hall sounded a retreat, hoping to make a stand at Buf- falo, but this was impossible. Only a few soldiers rallied for a future defense. Then followed a scene which passes description. The few roads were thronged with a motley crowd of soldiers and citizens and Seneca Indians, all hurrying as fast as possible from the British and their savage allies. For a day or two the country roads resembled a general May-day moving, but with terror blanching every face. Such was the effect of the needless destruction of the Canadian village by General McClure on his evac- uation of Fort George, and who then and there dis- graced the uniform of an American soldier by so doing. What if the villagers were insulting to their invaders ? They were belligerents in time of war, and SKETCHES OF EARLY BUFFALO. 19 itier. Then Sritisb, fired risals. The yept by red- illowing the led, with all lolt- pour ■ y- the men uf » the defense ived (in De- eneral Hall, ), which he to repel tlie its of Amer- it the enemy irn demoral- (iw the Brit- my marched as they met. and at Biif- rallied for a description. , of soldiers I as possible .' or two the g, but with ruction of 1 his evac- there cUs- ier by so g to their i war, and their indignities should have been overlooked, and in- nocent women and children not subjected to iniuunan treatment in onler to api)ease the wrath of an officer in CO! and. A true soldier would have shrunk from such action. Until the spring of 1814, but few of the fugitive villagers returned to re-establish their honies, and most of these with pluck only as a resource. The Gazette of May 14 announced that activity prevailed in rebuild- ing, and that the county clerk's office couhl be found at the house of Major Miller, at Cold Spring, that the post-office was at the house of Judge Granger, and that the collector's office had returned from Batavia. Samuel Wilkeson had returned from the army, and on Niagara, near Main street, he erected a house, and still another on Main, near Genesee street. The latter was his family residence until the completion of his mansion on Niagara Square, in 1825. This house, since construction, has been occupied continuously by the Wilkeson family. Miss Louise Wilkeson, a granddaughter of Judge Samuel Wil- keson, its present occupant, has there resided from her birth. The house is of much historic interest. Therein important meetings were held by prominent, influential citizens, when ways were discussed and means were provided to advance the interests of Buf- falo. There Gov. Dewitt Clinton and Canal Commis- sioner Myron Holly met in consultation with citizens of Buffalo on matters important, and which, promoted ''i>¥1 ■ ;p n Hi li'i Vi 11 k 20 MODKKN ANTiglTITIK8. by the inaHter iniiid of .liulgu Wilkesoii, were (H)iiHuin- niatery of Hiiffah). On the o|>ening of t]ie Krie (Janal, Judge WilkeHon waH chair- man of the eehtbration conunittee, r.nd on their return fronj their c-astern trip a grand rfception was held at the WilkeHon houHe, where the leturned conunittee was greeted and (congratulated by tiit leading residents of Buffalo, and of the country surrounding. Robert Cameron Rogers, in his story, "Johnny Wedderbnrn," hMcates a scene i\t the Wilkeson man- sion, he naming it "Wedderbnrn House." The story is not drawn from family history, but his description of the house and grounds is |)erfect : But the uproar never aeeiits to break in upon or dispel the air of complete ropoHO which surround the old manuion. The very dust a])peara to nettle with a certain deference over the garden and through the branchen of the elm trees, which stand lilte drowsy sentinels just within the yard. The Wedderburn House is like a half-hour stolen for meditation out of a busy day. It is a little Mecca in the midst of the work-a-day world, into which you may turn to meditate awhile on remote and (juiot themes, and even, as the moslem leaves his shoes without the mosque, bid the ijuestions and anxieties of life await you at the gate. Within the house is the same atmosphere of rest, tinged, you might say, with sadness. The shadow of some lingering sad- ness, softened and mellowed by time, seems mingled with the ({uiet of the dusky rooms. As you tread through the long hall, the soft, odd-patterned rugs hush the f(K>tfall into silence. The old-fashioned furniture meets your gaze, seeming to say softly, " We have been lc:;g in the family, and have memories." Together with its central location, and the historic interest connected with the house and grounds, their >e coiiHuiii- . On the was chiiir- leir ivturii as hel<,l at nittee was midents of ".lohuiiy liHon uian- The story ieseription apul thn air . The very ' the garden 1 Htand like •burn House isy day. It I, into which lict themes, ,he mosque, It the gate, tinged, you igering sad- ud with the e long hall, lence. The ) say softly, les." le historic inds, their gl»U, ' fc, i! f;! I ! 22 MODKKN ANTlgl'ITIKM. piirt'hiiHu and pivHervfttion by tli« city ih ii Hiihjt'ct worthy of (uinaitlBration. Tli« roHiilt wouhl h« a joy to futur« ^pnoratioiiH, aiitl a (l«l)t of honor cancoU'd which Itiitfah^ owen to the nutniory of Samuel Wilkc Bon, the father of the (iity — the founder of itH eoni- niereial greatneHH. In the Hpring of 1813 the first execution in Buft'ah) took place. Two Hohiierx were Hliot for desertion, at the camp on Flint Hill. A like tragedy occurred the following year, when Ave HohlierH were placed in kneel- ing poHture to Ue shot for denertion, one of whom was a young man under twenty years of age. The mus- kets handed to the men ordered to tire at him were charged with blank cartridge, and his life was his own. This tragedy, overlooked by (ienenih Brown, Scott and Ripley, took ))lace where is now tho junction of Seventh and Carolina streets. The first execution by civil authority in Buffalo was in 1815, when James Peters and Charles Thompson were hanged for the nmrder of James Burba. The victim lived on the river-side, below Black Kock, and because he objected to the trespass upon his premises by Thompson and Peters, they shot him. On this occasion the gallows was erected on the Terrace near Swan street. In December, 1819, for the second time a gallows was erected in Buffalo. John Godfrey was hanged for killing a soldier in the garrison at Fort Niagara. The recruit was dilatory in obeying an order of Corporal SKETCMIW or BARI.Y BUrVALO. 28 a Hiil)j»vt he a joy caiu't'led el Wilk... itH eoin- n Buffalo ertioi), at urrt'il the in kiieel- vlioin wan riie niiiH- him were I luH own. vn, Scott motion of iffalo was ['honipHon ba. The iock, and premises On this raee near I gallows Einged for ra. The Corporal (iotUrey, and thereniMHi he was pr«>niptly shot, and for which the < ..riMiral was j)roniptly hanged, and then the waleh of .Justice l»alaiu'ed even. The first three years of the ret-onstructlon )f the vil- lage were uneventful, when iniiM)rtant events stiniidatcd the vilLigers to greater activity. The c( nstructiou «.f the Krie Canal, then in progress, and the mlvent and success of a steaniboat on Lake Krie, were incentive * to emigration, and the ensuing dccadt* was largely eventful to Buffalo. In 1813 an act incoriM)rating the village was passed by the legislature, but the exigencies of war prevented (•rganization. Another act oi incoriM)ration was passetl in 181G, when an organization was effet^ted, with Oliver Forward, Samuel Wilkescm, Charles Townsend, Eben- ezer Walden, Heman B. Potter and Jonas Harrison as trustees, A paper written in 1847, by the late Judge George W. Clinton, is an interesting chapter of village history, from which the following is extracted : On the 6tb day of May, 1816. the freeholders and inhabitants met St the house of Ciaius Kibhe. Innkeeper. Of the trustees. Samuel Wilkeson, Oliver Forward, Charles Townsend and Jonas Harrison were present. The uieeting chose J. E. Chaplin. Clerk, Josiah Trowbridge, Treasurer, Moses Baker. Collector, and Reuben B. Hoacock, John Hadd<.ck and Caleb Kussell, Fire Wardens. At a subsequent meeting, on the 11th of November, 1816 they voted the first tax ever imposed in Buffalo village-a tax of 11.400, to be apportioned according to the assessment roll of the town of Buffalo for that year. tfl-^ 24 MODEPN ANTIQUITIES. :'l- On the 7th of March, 1817, the trustees organized a fire company, and appointed the following named to constitute it : Sylvanus Marvin, Stephen K. Orosvenor, William Murray, Jonathan E. Chaplin, Dan Bristol, Gorham Chapin, John Fobes, John B. Hicks, Horatio L. Fobes, Joseph Lawton, Jonathan K. Brown, A::ariah Fuller, Jr., William B. Goodrich, Nathaniel Goodrich, William Dorrington, Welcome Wood. At this meeting the trustees passed a resolution, rather arbitrarily, "that it be the duty of Vincent Grant, Gilman Folsom and Amos Callender to protect property from plunder whenever a fire takes place in this village." In May, 1823, was passed the first ordinance forbid- ing domestic animals the freedom of the town, but the cows and pigs refused to observe the law for many years thereafter by roaming at will. On the 6th of August, 1825, Lorin Pierce was ap- pointed village sexton, an office he held persistently for fifty years thereafter. On December 16, 1824, the second fire company was organized. Among the members were : Abner Brj-ant, Martin Daley, Guy H. Goodrich, Thaddeus Weed, Ebenezer Johnson, George Coit, John Scott, William HoUistcr, Nathaniel Wilg"s, Theodore Coburn, Hirara Johnson. John A. Lnzelle, George B. Gleason, George B. Webster, Robert Bush, Joseph Dart, E. D. Efner, organized ing named s> iwn, Jr., drich, ■ich, fton, resolution, f Vincent to protect 8 place in lice forbid- m, but the for many ce was ap- ersistently I company le, lasou, ibster, SKETCHES OF EARLY BUFFALO. In August, 1831, a tax of #3,000 was imiwsed for the purpose of constructing reservoirs and the pur- chase of lire engines. Two thousand dollars was paid for a fire engine and 200 feet of hose. Then a third fire company was organized. Two engine houses were built and a third one ordered, and another fire engine contracted for. Such were the youthful days of Buffalo's now unsurpassed fire department. The police department was organized by a provis- ion of the city charter ; the village trustees neglecting such precaution further than to appoint a "watch," at the request of the residents of the "Triangle," sit- uated between Main and Canal streets and the canal. John Benson, Michael Benson and William Cornwall were appointed to guard that locality— Buffalo's first police authorized by the corporation. Not until near the close of the village era was Buf- falo furnished with a sidewalk other than what Mother Earth provided. An order to construct sidewalks on Main street, from Crow to Swan street, was ordered in 1829, " with brick or smooth flagging," at the expense of the owners of fronting property— the west side to be sixteen feet in width, and but fourteen feet on the east side, and both sides provided with a rail on the outer edge. Prior to 1845, the east side of Main street be- low Seneca was of but little account. The east side, called "Cheapside," was "in the swim." As late as 1846 the corner of Exchange and Main streets was L* ^^ ■ MUW ii H . tl * >'l B ,3*^ ■ :«i)if 26 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. f 11- occupietl by the residence of Louis Le Couteulx, upou a hill ten feet above the present grade. The lot was inclosed by a stone wall, eight feet high above the sivie- walk. On the Main and Exchange street fronts there were openings in the wall, where steps led up to a gate at the top of the ground entrance to the house. From the corner of Exchange street half-way to Seneca street was vacant property. In 1843 William Garland came from Boston. Adjoining the Le Couteulx lot on the north he erected Gothic Hall, the building now occupied by that combustible merchant, Salem Le Valley. Mr. Garland's enterprise was scoffed at by the merchants of "Gheapside" — that Iiia building would he out of the line of business and travel. However, his fine structure was the incentive to the immediate improve- ment of that side of the street, above and below, when at once it became what it has ever since remained — the bustling side. During the Presidential campaign of 1844 the Whigs, in honor of their candidate, Henry Glay, erected on the upper corner of Main and Exchange streets a mas- sive ashen column, twenty feet high, surmounted by a golden l>all, in circumference equal to a flour barrel. The first settlement of Buffalo was in the vicinity of the Terrace Liberty Pole. The double log-house of Middaugh and Lane, sold to Judge Barker in 1808, was the first exclusive dwelling erected. No contracts for the sale of lands in New Amsterdam were entered into by the PloUand Gompany until November, 1804, teulx, upon The lot was >ve the sivle- fronts there lip to a gate lu^e. From eneca street irlaiid came lot on the ow occupied '^alley. Mr. ! merchant r i' ! r-: >. T- fi fa ; r^Trw'??rr^>iM*-'gia''gt»Wff^^ff'*rii ^-;s?s#w«mf»«5l^^■■"l'« •-.*»=&. w&*ifi'.ai^ < ^ was eviuctid iuH iiianage- ed and par- ut adequate L>8 the work leessant rain ;ould nut be enil)er, when le work was enerous with work. Of 1, he writes tier) in making i facilities, can was a salt boat- ir Le was a lake itna from under miDunition Imal if 111 and honeat. led at Black I, an honored it old citizens iemeanor. [lievements, a ace added to »r power. The 8 no man in the KAUhY NAVIOATIOX. 88 country coultl i>i|iial. lie lived in BiitTalo when the villn^rc wax liiirnud liy tin' Krltish, and IiIh home and property wt-re dcHtroyeil. When ])eace was dt'clarcd he declined to he a party to the coat putting out from Chip- pewa, he again braved the rapids, and munaged to make Porter's mill-race. A less active and powerful man would have been swept over the falls. The next day he resumed harbor work. The que.stion of the terminus of the Erie C:'.nal was greatly agitating the nununity, when Oliver Forwanl was selected as the master mind to represent the inter- ests of Buffalo in the legislature, where he maintained a conspicuous position and accomplished the great ob- ject of his mission, favorable legislation for Buffalo. Judge Charles Townsend was one of those pioneers who will ever be remembered as identified with the settlement and progress of Buffalo, and who in an eminent degree contributed to create and advance its business and commercial interests. Judge Samuel Wilkeson is gratefully remembered and more generally known from his identification with the history and prosperity of Buffalo. He was an M^,:-i4^iA'. No harbor, no canal : no canal, no city. Tlu> liarWor of 1H22 wan the liarliingcr of connnercial greatness, falnilons in jn'oportions, and, in view of the grand lesultH, the most important consummation in the world of commerce. The successful navigation of the Hudson and Dela- ware rivers by steam, led to its application for the navigation of Lake Krie. Early in the winter of 1817 the following named j)ersons associated to construct a Hteandtoat for Lake Krie: .loseph H. Stuart, Nathan- iel Davis, Asa H. Curtis, Halph I'ratt, dames Durant and .John Meiuls, of Alitany, and Robert McC^neen, Samuel McC'oon, Alexander MeMuir and Noah Brown, of New York. Mr. McQueen, a machinist, built the engine, and Mr. lirown, a shipwright, constructed the hull. The engine was constructed in New York, and from Albany conveyed in wagons to the bank of the Niagara. The hull and boiler were built at Black Rock, f^arly in 1818 Mr. Brown laid the keel on the bank of the river, a short distance above the mouth of Conjockety Creek, in a sldjvyard made historic by the building there of a jrortion of C'onmiodore Perry's fleet five years previous, with which he fought and won his historic victory on Lake Erie. There, on May 28, 1818, was launched a boat with dimensions as .■-.I. .».-»' 3 »jni.M »^^^<^^>^M^4im»«J»^■Urjta».->--^»»>*4»-i>*'«« ^^A. ifW^ :jm^J I -tVi— 3(S MODEKN ANTiyriTIKH. fir forward wuh tukoii. A ^miiil roiicrptioii of iiii uiitii- tor«'(l niind ! Of coiii-Hf thi> lioat walktHl in tlit' water; what »'1m*!? Tliin intiiitivtt *>stiiuat<' of tl>«' ori^jiiuil Htcainltoat si>iitiiiii'ntally HU)rgfst4*(l a iiaiiu> for tiiu first Htt'ani VL'SHel on tlic lakcH. lint the uiiwioldy iiatiio mot with advcrms t'riticiHiii, and whh Heldoni applied — the boat having; no ('oni|M'er — "Tlie Steandioat" Iteiiif; ('onsidert'd ipiite Hignitieant, and whicli whm her n^nal appeUation. The Hteanihoat continiitMl to ply HntrceHsfully hetween Hlaek H«M'k and Dtstroit until Novend)er, 1821, when H violent Htorni of wind Reached her a short distance ahove the mouth of Huft'alo Creek. To th» growing lake (>onuneree of the village the loss of the boat was it serious matter, ha}>]>ening at its very doors, yet the calamity received hut slight consideration from the local newspaper. As an exhihit of the progress of journalistic enterprise, the articje devoted to the wreck- ing is interesting. Evidently the fate of passengers and crew was not considered of iniportance by the local writer. The following is his contribution : It is with regrt't that we have to announce that " Tlie Stt-am- bont" was bt-arhed al>out one hiindri'd rods nlxtvt* thx mouth of HutTalo Creek, and in ho badly damaged that sht- cannot be re- paired. Tlie Iniat was lieavily laden, and on her last trip for the Heason. We cannot learn whether she was in8ureassenger on board, posterity would have been deprived of a thrilling romance, the last voyage •t«>*«»'-tt4*k-'i4B«-^jL; ' KAKI.Y NAVKiATION. 87 \. if III! until- tilt' wat«'r; li«> original For tlio Hrst Jit'hly naiiH! applitMl — loat" lu'injj ) li(-r iiHiial lly lti'tw«>(Mi 1H21, wlum ji't iHHtniu't! ;ln growiiij^ he hoat waH )()rs, yi't the 111 from the progreHH of to the wreck- ■ paHseiigovH aiiee hy the ition : , "The Steam- (■ tlie ninutli (if cannot be ro- iHt trip f(ir the il iir n thv- Water. The narrative \n patlietie, and uiii<|ue in nautieal deHcription, reading as followM : On WcdncHihiy, Octdlwr 31nt, Ht \ o'rliM-k w M., " Thi- Sti'RUi- Ixiat" left MlHi'k U a terrifying decree, and every wave Heomed to threaten deittrueiion to the Imat and paHMenxern. To (iroceed up the lake wan impoNHilile. To at- tempt t ii^?i'^V?/-t^''W^$;5li;, ■£»;&';; w' 5w^' ■■;■'■ -.a i"\ ;■ 38 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. t<) all who d«*sire c(flerity. We bope the owners will reap a full linrvfSt for their efforts to extern! the usefulness of this inven- tion, which ennobles American character. The ennoblement of American character was all right, but that the boat was the harbinger of a vast com- merce for Lake Erie, and of essential imiwrtance to local interests, evidently liad not then dawned on Buf- falo journalistic enterprise and "nuich pride." The wreck of the hull of the steamboat was com- plete, but her machinery remained intact, and as die had been a financial success, it was determined to rei)lace her by the building of a new hull. Then the citizens of Buffalo entered into correspondence with the builders, . urging such construction at Buffalo, re- sulting in a promise to that effect if assurance be given that a channel would be provided for the boat out onto the lake when completed. Early in January, 1822, Mr. Noah Brown, ship- wright and builder of the original boat, came from New York to commence the construction, and first appeared at Black Kock, Buffalo people not being aware of his arrival until it was announced that the boat was to be built at Black Kock, and that the con- tracts for material were to be executed at the Mansion House that evening. Buffalonians were advised that Brown was instructed to build at Buffalo, with condi- tions equal, and were indignant at his Iiasty action in not having conferred with them before concluding to build at Black Rock. When evening came the lower 1 il reap a full If this invfn- 8 all right, vast c'oin- )ortance to led on Buf- was com- and as ihe erinined to Then the idence with Buffalo, re- ssurance be for the boat Jrown, ship- , eaiue from n, and first e not being eed that the that the con- the Mansion advised that , with condi- sty action in oncluding to me the lower EARLY NAVIGATION. 89 rooms of the hotel were filled with indignant villagers to demand explanation from Mr. Brown, then in the house, and determined, if possible, to obtain a reversal of his decision in favor of Black Kock before contracts for the delivery of material were signed. The gentle- men from tlie river village were on hand to receive their contracts, and whatever was done must be done quickly. Judge Wilkeson was selected to first inter- view Mr. Brown. The Judge was unaccpiainted with the gentleman from New York, but there was no time for formalities. " Get the boat built hcrt- and we will sustain your action," were his instructions, and he then sought out the seclusion of Mr. Brown and proceeded to business. In correspondence \vith the principals Judge Wil- keson was advised that if a bond was given that a channel would be constr»icted in time to meet the wants of the boat, Mr. Brown was instructed to build at Buffalo, and thereby was prepared for a pointed dialogue. It opened thus : "Mr. Brown, why do you not build your boat here, pursuant to the promise of the company?" was the direct (piestion put. With dignified tone and manner came the reply: " Why, sir, I arrived in your village at an early hour, and cor eluded to occupy the morning in consult- ing the sh'|/-carpenters at Black Kock, who woi-ked for me in building the Walk-in-thp- Water. While there I was told that your harbor project was a humbug, t'- K i ^:t *^'^umi^-, ;v:^iJV.:^'5v^;:!g!Sg,:^j^;:i^j;-;^j«^^ m [I 40 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. and if built here the boat could not get out into the lake. Besides, the timber contrat'tors would not deliver timber here as cheaply as there, sind that is the reason why I concluded to build at Black Rock." Many older citizens will readily imagine the deter- mined attitude of Judge Wilkeson at this critical moment. As usual in emergencies, he was equal to the occasion. IHs language was plain, and its direct- ness sublime : "Mr. Brown, our neighbors have done us injustice. Sir, we are prepared to make you this proposition : ♦Ve will at once execute a bond to pay to your com- pany fl50 per day for each and every day the boat is detained for the want of a channel into the lake after the first day of May next. Tho bond will also stipulate that all required timber for 'construction will be fur- nished lit a less cost than offered at Bhick Rock. We will at once ])lace in your hands a sum of money, the same to be forfeited in case a sufficient bond is not immediately executed and to you delivered." It was known that the agent wa^ predisposed in favor of Black Rock, but the proposition stpiarely meeting liis instructions, together with its earnest delivery, sub- (tiied the gentleman into meekness in his reply: ^'Mr. Wilkeson, your proposition is quite satisfac- rorv, and therefore I have no alternative but to accept it. My attorney, Mr. Moulton, will see that the doc- uments are properly made out and executed." The day following a bond was executed, receiving ^,!«Ut««MaiiWS»»K*t deliver |iie reason he deter- H critical eqnal to ts direct- injustice. )position : your coni- le boat is lake after ) stipulate 11 be fur- ock. We noney, the ud is not d in favor y meeting very, sub- ! satisfac- to accept ; the doc- receiving the signatures of nearly all resjionsible residents of the village, and a contract to furnish all required tim- ber was taken by William A. Carpenter, and by him fulfilled. The boat was built on the bank of Buffalo creek, where now is Indiana street, and when coniple- tod was taken out on the lake by Captain William T. Miller, and returned without hindrance, and so con- tinued to pass out and in for twelve years thereafter. The ])assing of the steamboat out and in from the lake doubled the value of all the landed property in the village and its surroundings. With the villagers it was a day of jubilee, and tradition says the majority did not disturb their beds until the dawn of the next day. The indomitable will and energy Judge Wilke- son displayed in the construction of the channel for the steamboat was the talk of the town for years after, lie had labored with the workmen, often in water, and conformed to the rule governing the hours of labor, from daylight to evening twilight. With him it was a labor of love, he receiving no recompense for his service other than benefits received in general. The work performed was the excavation of a channel through a point of sand and gravel twenty yards wide, having an average height above water of seven feet, to a depth of nine feet below the water level. A modern dredge would make an easy and short job of it, but then only improvised implements for excavation below the surface of water were to be obtained, and of a nature most crude. .4 Vi ^A*«s^^s?^iSiai^ai^^5S«K-l"^iPi^i^^ MODKKN ANTIQUITIES. CHAPTER IV. PuBMC aimiaement for Buffalo villagers was first provided in 1820, when Mr. Charles, a ventriloquist, gave exhibitions in the court-house. Then a caravan, comprising an elephant, camel, lion, tiger, zebra, and a family of moukeys, were exhibited. Then came a show of wax figures, representing notables of Colony times. On Main below Clinton street was a theatre, where "King Richard" first appeared in Buffalo in the person of Mr. Maywood. And there Tom and Jerry ap})eared before their advent in a liquid state. In 1828 Mr. Lowell established a museum in the building now 242 Main street, he leasing the premises from Josiah Beardsley. My earliest recollection of public entertainment was that of " Old Sickles' Show," which with me antedates the circus. During the decatle of the thirties, a benev- olent-faced, bald-pated old Yankee from Connecticut, named Sickles, made annual visits to Western New York exhibiting his puppet show, an entertainment designed to please the juveniles, who, with their grand- mas, mammas and aunts, were his delighted audiences. Usually the show was given in the ball-room of the neighborhood tavern, where, from a wire stretched across the upper end of the room, draw-curtains were t;-'*J>r?l-.-'"V/Ait'r- ,(w^*-5.;*i*i.'-t«.^i»^'>«*i"''5^SK*fai' '" ^^^ri:fht^J:*Sii«i^smimi^^^f» stmt Haaa EARLY AMUSEMENTS. 43 was first riloquist, caravan, ebra, and 1 came a f Colony theatre, Buffalo in Tom and lid state, in in the ! premises nient was antedates a benev- inecticut, ;ern New tainment ir grand- udiencfis. n of the itret'-ihed tins were suspended, which, when drawn, an assemblage of pup- pets appeared, representing both sexes, and which, through their connection with invisible wires, would hold receptions, dance reels and minuets with precision, taking steps in time to the notes of an invisible violin. In addition to the puppets a series of tableaux were presented, ending with that of the "Balx's in the Woods," a scene designed to bring sobs and tears from the child audiences. There was represented a lonely forest, the lost chihlren lying on the ground in death's end)race, when would appear a family of robins, hopping and flitting about, gathering leaves, with which they covered the dead babes. The effect of this scene on sympathetic childhood is illustrated in a verse of Eliza Cook's " Address to the Robin " : How ray tiay heart throbbed with sorrowful heaves, That kept choking my eyes and my breath, When 1 heard of tliee spreading a shroud of green leaves O'er the little ones lonely in death. The original troupe of Negro Minstrels — "burnt cork artists" — was organized and first exhibited in Buffalo in the latter thirties, by Edwin Christy, a dock saloon-keeper. The industry was original with Christy, he taking inspiration from the performance of Dick Sliter and George Harrington, two town boys. Sliter was precocious as a jig dancer, while Harrington could beat time with his hands expertly. When about fif- teen years of age, the boys would repair to the steam- boat wharves and display their peculiar talent to I ^^SS£8«as^^i; '^i^^M^^^ f!m^ 44 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. luhniring crowds, who would strew small coin around the feet of the dancer. At first the beaten jig time was a rapid patting on the fore thighs, called juba : .Tuba up and juba down, Juba all around tbe town, adfiititum. Christy patronized the two boys, Harrington being his step-son, usually called George Christy, who would locivte their exhibitions fronting or within his saloon. Christy was a fine ballad singer and a violinist, and in these accomplishments the stei)-son was his diligent student. With Sliter and Harrington the nucleus, by adding tambourine and banjo players, and an additional violinist, an exhibition troupe was constituted, and in a room over his saloon, Christy, as manager, gave daily and nightly his " Darkey Minstrel Show " to crowded houses, and from the first opening Christy's fortune was secure. From time to time additional talent was added, and "Christy's Minstrels" were widely famous in their portrayal of negro character, excentricity and extravaganza. Christy was progress- ive in taking his troupe to New York City, where he .established them in permanent quarters, and where they continuously performed to crowded audiences, their manager eventually retiring with a fortune. Thus originated the "burnt-cork artists," so numerous for years thereafter. Dick Sliter became the most diverse dancer in the world. In a match exhibition against John Diamond, -':-ld^^^''^*^i^-'^-fli'iSS^'^ii^*^^'^*^'^*'^'^^l^' ■ :'&iii^mm^^'m0S^^ OLD FERRY LANDING. 45 around Ijig time luba: [)n being lo would s saloon, t, and in diligent cleua, by Iditional 1, and in :er, gave low " to Christy's dditional 8 " were haracter, progress- vhere he d where idiences, e. Thus rous for T in the diamond, he danced his Rattlesnake Jig one hour and five min- utes without repeating a step. During his exhibition tour he traversed two continents. In London, in l)rivate exhibition, he jigged before an audience of royalty. A ferry across to Fort Erie from the historic black rock, near Bird Island, existed at an early date, there being one reported by early voyagers in times of the Revolution. In 1800 one O'Neil operated it, until 1806, when Major Frederick Miller took charge, and in 1808 he gave over to Asa Stanard. In deference to the war the ferry was suspended in 1812 for a time, until 1814, when it was renewed by Lester Brace. Until 1821 Brace operated the ferry, when Major Donald Fraser became proprietor. The hi ats used were scows, propelled by sweeps, wielded by the strong arms of four skilled watermen. In 1825 Lester Brace and Major Fraser built the horse-power boat, which they continued to operate until steam-power was adopted for the ferry by James Plaggart, in 1840. In the construction of the Erie Canal in 1825, the old rock, which so long served as a ferry landing, was blasted away and the landing removed to where it remains, at the foot of Ferry street. The old-time horse-boat was a curiosity of the period, it being the pioneer of its kind west of the Hudson river. When first operated it received liberal patron- age from many curious to inspect its working. The machinery of the boat consiste¥Msmm^ffmmMmmm-m f^A-. r^ ' ,?" I i 4 "i •A a < •ktJm^,tiA<,.--k:i.»^Mt--.W^ti'm-^ i>^t<^W'tmilfAi»Mlif,¥t^^ HOR8E-POWER HOAT. 47 c a < 3S wlieel the width of the decfk and placed even therewith, antl havinj; a system of i'ogs and gearing which tnrned tlie sliaft liohling the pachlle wheels. Tlie horses trod on either side, the driver between with whij) in hand, with which he flayed the i)oor beasts while the boat was nnder way. When a boy, the writer often crossed the Niagara river on the horse-boat, and, while pitying the ])oor horses, detested the man witii the whip. Major Donald Fraser was a valiant soldier of the war of 1812. lie was on the staff of (Jeneral Pike when that brave officer was killed at Toronto ; was on the staff of General Brown at Chippewa and Lundy's Lane ; aide to General Porter at Fort Krie, and cap- tain of the horse-boat when there were no battles to light. A brave man and a patriot was the Major, and withal a Scotchman, and as a Scotchman I am prond of him — as said Josh IMllings of his ancestor who was a " phiddler." In March, 1824, the lone steamboat on Lake Erie was thns advertised : The steainl>oat Superior will sail from BuiTalo on or about the 20th (lay of A|)ril, next, if the lake is then clear of ice, making nine day trips during the season — the November trips dependent on the state of the weather. Passengers will be landed at Grand Hiver, Cleveland and Sandusky, unless prevented by stress of weather. If a trip should be made to the upper lakes during the season, due notice will be given. All shipments of merchandise on the boat will be at the risk of the owner or shipper thereof, and that the captain of the boat is to receive no freight unless shipped under such conditions. J. I. Ostraxdek, Aluanv, March 10, 1824. Secretary. ■.anat^m^'" ■i?|;^S5i^^3^^.i^i^SS"-^/'«:?^rsy5^;^^ 48 MODKUN ANTIQIITIKS. i , . '' ' During the dooado of the twontien, villajje newH- ])U|H'rs contaiiuul many unique advertiHenientH, Houie of wliich were Hpieetl with luunor. A tleahM' in pottery (lesired those indebted to him whose ])romiHes had mature*!, to nuike payment, ^> or new promiseH." An ailvertiser, witii absurd honesty, ealled attention of tlie owner to a green eotton umbrella left in his ottiee. H. S. Seynn)ur dealt in lottery tickets. H»' gra- ciously, by advertisement, notiHed " two young men, living somewhere in the town of Clarence, that their ticket pureliased of him had drawn a prize of one thousand dollars, and that the cash was awaiting the rightful owners at his otti(!e." An advertisement of Peter Colt makes the diversity of the present department stores ancient history : " Pork, whisky, cross-cut saws, buffalo robes, gin and feathers." In connection with a general store, Pratt and Meech did a forwarding business. They were enabled to guar- antee the delivery of goods from Albany " in the short space of twelve days." They offered for sale, " drugs, dye-stuffs, medicines, surgical instruments, leather, In- dian blankets, rum, log-chains, groceries, salt, whisky and whitefish." " For Sale — A negro servant girl," was the adver- tisement of .lonas Harrison. In 1820 five young negro slaves were brought to Buffalo from Kentucky, the property of Mrs. Gen. .»►■.• ^:w»9»<(ar.,i.v*.->--j-,_ ,=?!:».«;.'-.-.:■ .-ji,fu«e;.i.v«j«,..«s»ai. UNIQUE ADVEKTIHEMENTS. 49 igi^ news- iitK, some il to him iieiit, " or nttentiou liiH oftice. mng men, that their i/.e of one aiting the diversity ; history : 8, gin and ind Meeeh id to giiar- I the sliort e, "drugs, eather, In- ilt, whisky the adver- )rought to Mrs. Gen. Peter B. Porter. After tiling a bond that they would he liberated at the age of twenty -one years, Mrs. Por- ter was permitted to hold her chattels. Samuel Edsall railed attention to his tannery and shoe-shop, situated " on the road to Black Kock, near the village of Buffalo," now the corner of Niagara and Mohawk streets. For Sai.k — A lease of lot No. 4, L« Coiitoulx Block, opposite Cheapaide. On the preiniHos are two stores witb rooms in the rear for dwellings, and space for family gardens. One dollar and fifty cents per foot front per annum. Thomas Quiolky. The location is now 191 Main street. A prominent hotel advertisement re&.Is as follows : E. Belden, proprietor of the Mansion House, respectfully in- forms the pulilic that he has taken the old-established stage liouse at the south end of the village of BuffaU>, long known as the Landon stand. The house is large and in complete repair. Its spacious piazzas furnish the most extensive, rich and varied ])rospects of land and water, overlooking Buffalo harlmr, Niagara river, Fort Erie, the lake, and extensive landscapes on the Amer- ican and Canadian shores. His extensive yards, gardens and shrubbery will furnish pleasant and refreshing retreat to ladies and gentlemen after the fatigues of travelling. Carriages with safe drivers and moderate fare will be furnished to men of busi- ness or parties of pleasure wishing to travel out of the usual stage routes. His stables and pastures are large and convenient. His house at all times will be supplied with the fruits of the season, and the best liquors and pr""'»ion3 the country affords ; and he trusts that approved experience and punctual attendance and good servants will keep up the loug-establishid character of the house, and give general satisfaction to the public. Buffalo, July, 1824. v»».J«..«K'»-V«l«S' ■i&'i.'Jil'J^': ■ *^-' ■.I^jaW": .'iO MODKKN .NTigi'ITIKI*. 1^ 111 k m I! I I i!i^' ('IIA1»TKK V. The yonr 1825 wjih larfyely ovuntfiil to tins jM-oplo <»f HiiH'alo. The ccli'ltratioii of the o|M'iiin^ of the Krie C'aiial WUH an event of wide iiii|)ortaiiee, reaching from the Hea-l)oar' purpose, and nnuhi the paasafru of the canal to Albany. The departure of the hoat was announced hy the diseharj^c of a 82-poundei' Other cannon were placed on the hank of the caiml within hearing distance all the way to Albany, which were discharged in turn, and thus the departure of the Sriif'ca (Jhicflvom Hiiffalo was announced at Albany in one hour and forty minutes, then the fastest dis- j)atch time on record. The Black Rock dignitaries, not then reconstructed from their civil war with Buffalonians, declined to join Buffalo in celebrating, but chartered the new boat JViar/tii'd, built by the late Josiah Beardsley to run as a packet to and from Lockport, which they had painted and decorated profusely, carrying a large, live eagle perched aloft on a standard, for their passage down the canal. Intending to lead the Seneca Chief -■..*_ .c'^,« tvj '•'■■fv < .j:->f««iiV4',>AJti»««*4''}«4U'VNM^.'>: . ■i*K.■J^tt■^.■il~,A,.^^m,-■r'y^• tSfi^ OI'KNINU OK KKIK CANAL. ftl ' j>t'OJ)lt' (tf the Kriu hiiig fr«>iii iviliziition, ov. Dewitt itii a local Ituat c'oii- *aji;e of the hoat waH ei Other iiial within whieh were ure of the at Albany fastcHt ilis- (Constructed iued to join ) new boat sley to run h they had a large, live leir passage eneca Chief through the state, they started from Black Kock two hours in advance of that boat's schcduh-d time from Buffalo, luit siu'h design was frustrated by an order of (iovernor (/linton that no Itoat be passed through th*: locks eastward in advance (»f the Svnevn Chief, The Black Hock party consisted of (lencral I'orter, Shel- don Thompson, Lester Brace, and a Mr. Mason. Kveiitually all became reconciled and were potent faetoFH in promoting the interests of Buft'alo, Mr. Tli)ss of welcome there made to him by Oliver Forward was considered the most dignified and eloquent presented to the General while in the country. Ked Jacket, also, improved his opportunity to have a " big talk." When the cere- mony was ended, the General wf • jscorted by the military and citizens to the residence of General Por- ter, at Black Kock, where he was entertained for a day, and then, in like manner, was escorted to the Falls. ;i?: ■■■tv.>!iU:..v ;JSK?:-- '^>m i km, 11 ll |l I si ii *i^ ll i ^ m ii ^;i I:. 52 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. By far the most sensational event of the year was the hanging of the three Thayers in open view on Niagara Square. Sufficiently sensational to stir up a much larger community — sufficient to cause the inva- sion of the town by full twenty thousand visitors, a number sufficient to overwhelm a struggling village of two thousand inhabitants. Lafayette Park, now classic ground, was, in village times, an open space, with here and there a tree of indigenous growth. On the Main street edge, fronting the site of the monument, a spring of water bubbled out of the earth and ran a rivulet across the street and down Court street, finally mingling with a larger stream crossing Niagara at Mohawk street. At the spring the side-path was continued over a wide oaken plank spanning the outlet. Here Farmer's Brother, Red Jacket and other lords of the soil were wont to quench their thirst, drinking from a tin cup taken from the top of a buttonwood stump near by ; here the village boys played two -old -cat, tag and leap-frog, and on the Fourth of July exploded fire- crackers and gorged themselves with gingerbread and small-beer ; here village orators waxed eloquent advo- cating the construction of the Erie Canal, and a har- bor for Buffalo ; here General McComb, when head of the army, patriotically addressed the people, and Henry Clay, Daniel Webster and the patriot Kossuth orated in like manner. The beautiful Soldiers' Monu- ment stands on the direct line of march of the three ■7<^'^;A;<<.«<«w»>' soil were a tin cup [) near by ; t, tag and loded fire- rbread and [uent advo- and a har- when head )eople, and ot Kossuth iers' Monu- f the three m LAFAYETTE PARK. Thayers down Court street to their execution on Niag- ara square; and six years later, Holt, the wife-killer, marched in procession to his open-air exhibition. In 1932 Buffalo will celebrate its centennial— j«8* «"« hundred years a citv. From the base of the monument the orator of the day will glorify the deeds of the heroes it commemorates and boast of the progress of Buffalo, quoting from the address of Mayor Grover Cleveland delivered from the same place fifty years before. The little park came nigh unto being the scene of a hand-to-hand conflict between village neighbors on election day in 1828. The voting place was at the corner of Clinton and Washington streets. On the eve of the election the partisans of General Jackson erected a hickory flag-staff on the opposite corner and from its top they proposed to fly a flag on the day of the election bearing a likeness of their candidate for President. The Adams men objected to the flauntmg of the, to them, offensive emblem so near to the polls, and resolutely declared that if the flag was raised they would pull it down, forcibly if they must. The Jack- soniaiis asserted their right to fly the flag and their determination to raise it and to defend it when raised. Such was the situation on the eve of the election. On Buffalo Plains were resident a band of stalwart men noted for their prowess and of their proneness to assert it when occasion offered. Of these were in- cluded Elijah and William Holt, John and Josiah Hosford, Rowland and Daniel Cotton, John and Jacob Sj* ^'^^'Wi'M^ w. r 64 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. Scott, Liiman Smith and Nelson Adams, a Si)artan band of Jacksonians, loaded to the muzzle with cam- paign enthusiasm. To the " Plains Kangers," as they were called, the village partisans of " Old Hickory " applied for aid to defend their flag. On the morning of the election the flag was hoisted to the pole-top. Then the Adams men gathered in numbers at the Park House, corner of Main and Clinton streets, where an assaulting force was organized, who proceeded in a body to demand the lowering of the flag. When they approached the flag-staff and discovered the Plains contingent among those whom they were to encounter, a halt was called, a consultation, and then a dispersion of the attacking force. No demand was made and the flag waved, and General Jackson was elected President without blood- shed in Buffalo. Thus was exemplifled the maxim : To promote peace prepare for war — and the folly of partisan rancor. Preserved in frame by the Historical Socii ty is an old ball ticket of the village era, unique in print, and I'ural in that the assemblage is requested to meet at two o'clock p. M. Evidently the small hours of the morning were devoted to rest and sleep by the dancers of the period. However, they danced with both feet while the flddler voiced in a manner thus : Right band across, left hand back, Keep your steps in time, Take hold of your partner's band And balance in a line. *■' '^(i(**AAhii^^i;«^;iiri*»tH:ii«AiftA'.; BUFFALO PLAINS. ailed, the for aid to Bction the >e Adams se, corner ting force demand ached the mt aniong vas called, attacking jraved, and lout blood- le maxim: he folly of )ciity is an print, and to meet at lurs of the the dancerH 1 both feet CHAPTER VI. During the village era an adjacent community to Buffalo villagers were the settlers of Buffalo Plains, with whom they lived in the same township, met at the l)olls, socially and at church, virtually one community. The Plains were originally settled by a colony of far- mer» from the lake region of Central New York. First to come on a tour of inspection was Samuel Atkins, in 1806, from Cayuga, on horseback, traversing Indian trails through a dense forest to Buffalo— not to specu- late in village lots, but to purchase farm lands for himself and others who desired to settle near unto the site of the great city that was to arise at the foot of Lake Erie. Mr Atkins remained at Buffalo through the sum- mer, returning to Cayuga in the fall of that year, liefore his return he engaged for himself and others tracts of land lying on the "Main Road" from four to six miles from the hamlet at the foot of the lake, m a northeast direction ; selecting for himself about three hundred acres on the east side and midway of the tract, on which, while at Buffalo in 1806, he erected a house of logs wherein to place his famdy the fol- lowing year. II Ipi 66 MODEKN ANTIQUITIES. i ^n the spring of 1807, there left Cayuga with their families, Samuel Atkins, Ephraim Brown, Ezekiel Smith, Rowland Cotton, Koswell Hosford, William and Elijah Holt, Caleb and Joseph Fairchild ; all on horseback, with such household effects as could be so trans^mrted. The year following they were joined by the families of Zachary Griffin and Dr. Daniel Chapin. All of these took up lands and formed the old coni- munnity of farmers who were the original settlers of ]{uf¥alo Plains. Nearly all were soldiers of the Revo- lution and drew pensions from the Govei-nment, and had grown-up sons and daughters skilled in husbandry. Mr. Atkins' family consisted of five sons and two daughters ; three of the sons and both daughters were approaching maturity — a formidable force to make a new home in a new country. With the exception of Mr. Cotton and the Holts, the heads of all these fam- ilies occupied their new-made homes during ths remain- der of their lives. In 1826 Mr. Cotton sold his farm to Washington A. Russell and settled in the town of Lancaster ; and subsequently the Holts sold theirs to Elisha Ensign and removed to Ohio. The frontage of the Griffin farm is now divided by the Belt Line railroad as it approaches Main street from the south. The Chapin farm now comprises beautiful Willow Lawn, the home of Mrs. Elam R. Jewett, and the southerly half of Park Meadow, in- cluding the magnificent groves, lawns and terraces fringing the north bank of Pai-k Lake. The frontage ' HaKi4i«rfn3V«iiewr^i^w.<'N;v: IfS^ 68 MODERN ANTlgUITIES. Atkins kept a tavern, a house of entertainment for travelers and pilgrims journeying to the new West. Many veterans of the war of the Revolution had set- tled on the Niagara frontier, and the old log tavern was their headquarters — was where they held their t% ill &*v^ House OP i MNA ATKIN& camp-fires and fought their battles anew. To a man they sustained the policy of President Madison to maintain the majesty of the starry flag on the high seas. In })ossession of the writer is a printed poster, dated April 16, 1811, calling a meeting for such pur- pose at the old tavern. The time-bleached paper and quaint type characterizes it a veritable spirit of liberty and independence. ^MT/i.: ^iii *iii^-*«»». ",i- ' r»:tP^i£~.-.4**r:'>-^^i.:'im5i^Mmi^i^^ BUFFALO I'LAINS. 59 iment for lew West. I had set- og tavern lield their % % To a man Madison to n the high ited poster, r such pur- l paper and it of liberty The ohl tavern was the refuge of many fleeing families from toreh and tomahawk on that fatal day and night of 1813, from burning Buffalo. The house survived until 1823, when it was replaced by the large frame structure long known as the " Old Homestead." The house erected by Mr. Atkins in 1806 was sub- sequently the district school-house, in which, during the decade of the thirties, the writer attended school. His education was there hastened to completion by the pungent rawhide, wielded by the strong arms of sun- dry esteemed i>edagogue8, the most severe of whom p' ed as an orthodox Christian. But he died one day, id the conviction that he was thereafter kept warm amidst the glare of the Calvinistic process, gave con- solation to his victims. Woodward ! thou are not lost to memory dear — thy fame is here perpetuated. The site of the old school-house is now buried beneath the embankment of the D., L. & W. Railroad at its Main street crossing. Of the original settlers of Buffalo Plains, first and second generations alike have vanished — " Oono like tenants who quit without warning, Down the back entry of time." With two exceptions all the old buildings erected by the pioneers of Buffalo Plains have disappeared. The residence of Zachary Griffin, erected in 1809, and a house erected in 1817 by Anna Atkins, widow of m^tiei'^lki^iM^- tnff 60 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. I « Si ' m Samuel, are atill in evidence just east of the Belt Line crossing. Ephraini Brown was the eldest of these old settlers, reaching the age of eighty years at his death sixty years ago. The old war-worn veteran with cane in hand would limp among the school children, who would flock around to hear him recite the story of his battles, and to hear him chant the army rhymes of the good old Colony times. The old man was stalwart of frame, but quite lame, the effect of a musket ball penetrating his knee at the battle of Trenton. With children grouped around him " Old Mr. Brown " would sing thus : A haughty ship o'er the ocean caiue, All loaded deep with fire and Hame, And other things I need not name, To have a "dash at Stonington." The old razee, with hot ball, Did make a farmer's barrack fall, And a codfish Heet did sadly maul. About one mile from Stonington. Now some assert on certain grounds, Beside the damage and the wounds. It cost King Oeorge ten thousand [munds To have a "dash at Stonington." Buffalo Plains has a war record. In the fall of 1812 the Army of the Frontier went into winter quar- ters on Flint Hill. The camp extended on Main street from the present Humboldt parkway northerly to the ; i(tJWK%*3V,:^eifi'i'' .,^.:.i: .»%sjfey,^--"*-' Belt Line I these old ; his death with cane Idren, who tory of his mes of the stalwart of luskct ball on. With wn " would unds the fall of winter quar- Main street therly to the ""rrr wjtpv . .»■« i | ii» I II wm 02 MODERN ANTlgUITlES. laiulrt of Dr. Daniel ('hapiii, now tlie Jewett prop- erty, and westerly to the head of Park Lake, on lands belonging to Kraatiis Granger, then Collector of Cus- toms and Postmaster of Buffalo. On the Main street front of this old camp-ground stand several venerable oaks, relicts of the old camp. The one directly opjM)- site the Deaf and Dumb Asylum is distinguished as the one under which a row '»f soldiers kneeled when shot for desertion in the spring of 1813. The vener- able oaks are still vigorous, but their lives are in dan- ger. The land boomer and builder covet the space they occupy and they may soon disappear from view. Boomer, spare those trees, let the old oaks stand I l>^«r./iH'■««•A'««^'^i-'»*tM wett prop- e, on lands ;or of dis- dain street 1 venerablo ectly oppo- iguished m eeled when The vener- are in dan- the space from view, stand I THK UKEAT LAKK8. chaptp:r VII. 03 At the advent of the steamboat in 1818, Lake F^rie was navigated by a Heet of small sail craft, fully ade- (juate for the comniert'e tho.i existing between points on the lake. An early enrollment nwls : Sfh. Krperiment, 30 tons. Samuel Wilkeson an.>ii'i«^'. ,=.■)■ >vi;^^'*4fc%'^J8#.''«' which had . Notably otte, a 200- the roar of »an several Hiuler the resitlent of , bouiul for •H Shook, in loner Jo/i n leat to Huf- from (iraiul iake Miehi- ftgo shipped 1 183(5 the <, the Julia 3/ilwaiikie, igHtatt" and id long resi- of Captain ■eet, but not pars ago. eonuuission ;he Illinois, )t. Gus. Mc- . Asaph S. These men Lakes with WWr(.'A^ paami ill a ! ;! i' IIP eg MOT)ERN ANTIQUITIES. navigation of the lake, ten of which were in commis- sion when the city was inaugurated. Appended are their names, and the names of their commanders : STEAMBOATS. CAPTAINS. Superior William T. Pease. Niagara. No. 1 C'barles C. Stanard. Henry Clay Walter Norton. Sheldon Thompson, . . . Augustus Walker. William Penn David Wight. William Peacock, . . • Thomas Wilkins. Pioneer Charles Burnett. Ohio Morris Tyler. Enterprise George Niles. Caroline James Pettey. The Peacock made tri-weekly trips to Conueaut, calling at Erie, Dunkirk and Barcelona. The Caro- line ran Niagara River to Chippewa and Schlosser dock. The remainder ran to Sandusky and Detroit. At first some one of the boats would extend one trip to Mack- inaw and Green Bay each season. In 1834 the Pioneer was wrecked on Lake Michigan when on such a trip. The Michiqan came out during the summer of 1832, commanded y Capt. Chesley Blake. Her first service was a trip to Green T'^y, conveying General Scott, with a body of troops, U service in the Black Hawk War. During the passage cholera broke out on board, causing many deaths, principally among the troops. At this period there were four Canadian steam- boats in commission, mostly confined to home waters, -.lif^ '^-'4-«««S*w.. a?>^«S^ n commis- «nded are kders : se. a,rd. Conneaut, The Caro- losser dock. t. At first p to Mack- 1834 the hen on such ! summer of Her first ing General a the Black \ broke out ^ among the ^ian steam- lome waters, IHii m •ws-m w<.s',*S]r' m^^^s^^m^ mm ^S A '^i ^Amm^^ kk mkim ^f m ^sm^ — wfe* m i 70 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. one of which, the Thames, commanded by Captain Van Allen, carried on trade with Buffalo. Mr. Van Allen, subsequently, was proprietor of the Claren- don Hotel in Buffalo. Excepting the William Penn, ownetl by Kufus Reed, of Erie, all the American fleet were controlled at Buffalo, and their crews resided there. Such was the steam fleet of Lake Erie sixty-six years ago. Their combined tonnage was less than 2,000 tons. Recently a lake steamer was launched from a Buffalo ship-yard, not of the larger class, yet double the tonnage of the ten pioneer boats combined. The first steamboat to run the Niagara in regular route, was the Caroline, brought from Albany through the canal for the purpose, by shipping her guards. In 1834 the Victory, eighty-seven tons, was built for the river route. She was commanded by Capt. John Hebard. In 1840 Capt. C. L. Gager built the Eed Jacket for the route, but she was soon taken to the St. Clair River. Then on the river appeared in turn the Sun, Star and Waterloo, and finally the Emerald, a Canadian vessel, which plied the river for a number of years. After the Emerald came the Ai'roio, a good boat, and after her the Clifton, the best of all. But the railroad to the Falls forced them to seek traffic on the upper rivers. Apparently the founding of a city on the shore o* Lake Erie in 1832, was an incentive to ship-building, as the next year twelve new steamboats were added to the fleet. Seven others came in 1834, and a like num- *^«t*stsa-ss>afcs»'>*«'^'- THE GREAT LAKES. 71 Captain Mr. Van le Claren- xm Penn, American eir crews Lake Erie ;e was less } launched class, yet combined, in regular ly through lards. In ilt for the apt. John S the Hfid cen to the k1 in turn Emerald, ' a number Ai'row, a best of all. seek traffic le shore of p-building, :e added to I like num- ber in 1835. With one exception the new boats were a slight improvement upon the old fleet. The excep- tion was the Washington, built in 1833, the largest and best found boat so far appearing on the lake. But her cai'eer was limited to three trips. Encountering a The Thomas Jefpekson — 1834. violent tempest on her third passage up the lake, she was wrecked on Long Point, a total loss. Then another steamboat appeared named the Washington, which was soon after burned on the lake, and since then the name Washington, for a lake vessel, has been neglected by ship-owners. Later there was a lake boat named Lady Washington, which escaped serious disaster. i« 1" mi 72 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. In Black Rock harbor, a short distance above the ship-lock, wlien the wa^-^r is clear, may be seen on the bottom the wrecks of the early steamboats Henri/ Clay, North America and Daniel Webster, there moored as cast-aways, in 1842, to relieve crowded Buf- falo Creek. These boats were not over-aged when retired, but their primitive construction rendered them useless to compete with the more modern boats then in commission. The following named steamboats were navigating the lakes in 1835-36 : >TKAMHOAT8. Michigan, . Tliomas Jefferson, Sandusky, . . . Daniel Webster, . Oeneral Porter, . United States, Charles Townsend, Pennsylvania, Monroe, Commodore Perry, Oliver Newberry, William Penn, William Peacock, North America, Ohio, . . Detroit, Delaware, . Victory, Caroline, . Governor Marcy, Oswego, CAITAIN8. Chesley Blake. Thomas Wilkins. 1 . J. Titus. Mon ;8 Tyler. Walter Norton. A. E. Hart. Simeon Fox. Levi Allen. Harry Whittaker. David Wilkinson. A. Edwards. David Wright. E. W. Pratt. Oilman Appleby. Charles Burnett. R. Gillett. Captain Cobb. John Hebard. James Pettey. Samuel Chase. James Honiaus. 'SE?s^S!is»Si^ShSHs-«"''i-.i.Sia*fesfeasJS^ ■ '"" jW'l THE OKEAT LAKES. 73 above the sen on the its Henry i»?'5 . «- 74 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. Mecca for hordes of snitle operators, fakirs, nostrum venders, the pestiferous watch-stuffer, and other birds of prey, wlio flocked there to impose on the simplicity of the crednhnis emigrants. Notwithstanding that steamboat officers and others were diligent in warning unsuspecting strangers to beware of these inhuman sharks, they found victims in abundance. Then the era of illustrious steam-boating (»n Lake Erie was at its zenith. A fleet of magnificent passen- ger boats, luxurious in apiK>intments, officered by skilled navigators, picituresque in ruftled linen and affability, no dearth of patronage, a world of travel, fair women and brave men, bands of music galore — hurrah, boys ! from the commencement to the close of each season, until that autocrat of the rail — the loco- motive—relegated the passenger steamer to inactivity during the decade of the fifties. The steamboat officers were active in prosecuting the boom, all partaking of the spirit of the times. Among those resident at Buffalo were the following captains : Ij. H. Cotton, Levi Allen, T. J. Titus, C. H. Ludlow, John Hebai'd, W. T. Pease, A. S. Bemis, John Shook, Augustus Walker, Henry Kandall, Harry WLittaker, (Jilman Appleby, Morris Hazard, C. M. Avcrill, (George Willoughby, C. E. Roby. Charles Brundage, Luther Chamberlain, Ira Davis, C. C. Stanard, H. Van Allen, Simeon Fox, F. N. Jones, A. H. Squier, A. D. Perkins, Heber Squier, F. 8. Wheeler, •mfmm^iiee<'ss^^'Sfff-u &s 1 8, nostrum other birds I simplicity iding that in warning e inhuman V on Lake ent passen- RRcered by linen and [ of travel, ic galore — he close of — the loco- i inactivity prosecuting the times. e following rcrill, kVillougbby, .by. Brundage, B, Allen, nes, ;rkins, heeler, ,.;^^w**»* i-f ^iaiS&»'iSji'StUft«, Js^J-WS ''>5B«S^3&>fcsiiv«««iS^^it/ii(^j«ii naveniM>rt, ler, ^obtirlHon, one, ?«r, iiiinds, Pierce, ison. 8 were the uugeot, McUeo, [c<*ee. AdiliDgton, [jyt, Hallenbec.k. re the stew- Buffalo : loomer, Oillispiu, BlaucLard, Jruce, ruce, well known ptions, have lamplin still :alo. THE ^ilil.AT LAKEH. 77 At this |)»'rio work and earn HoiiicthiiiK, oftVrin^ liiiii t»'H ct'iitH for eai'li load of dii-t tliat In* would wlu'ul and dump in tin* roar. TIiIh ])ro|Hmition Captain Wheeler accepted, and at once plied the hIiovcI in loading the harrow. V\ hen returning from the ^i*.-^\.:Ai'»*u»'^^'(^ir-i,mmmS,at^yM**i^^ njj him ten I wlu'L'l nnd iiii Whet'ler loading the up, he took toeking wum vay with tlie i-onted on a ant of Wil- the fair one. the Terrace, 3, the wheel- the ninaway •any, who led lie lie beeame venty dollars, •ished on the ijiper story of 1 at its rear, 'red Wheeler, vening, when w a party of igh glee. On ndstone, some vas raised and ance-house, to sgrees. When ately, passing ough the maze TIIK justice to the subject. I have ever more than suspected that my old friend and ex- Co n n t y Treasurer, Charles H. Durkee, was an actor in that conu'dy. My first steand>oat ride was in the sum- mer of 1837. In com- pany with ujy mother and young sister, we went to the foot of Main street and l)oarded the steam- boat William Penii, bound for Dunkirk, to visit relatives. Ik'ing a youth of eleven years I was in afHuence in having in my pocket a silver half-:'^;^w^»Wxi!^(^t3«^ )ink-colored rose-water, simplicity, y upon me half of my picturesque to cure all ot have per- tnore than a the dreaded ,nd run off ut the theft ced, was an latter thir- a vessel de- lurdens. In Buffalo and controversy 3 steamboat, ffalo she was eeper, on the le game. In irere reticent !ssion of the nage the en- 1, who organ- Buffalo. On boarded, the ■'■•"'S«^%||^^,^^gj^fl;v^Jgj^^5Sj-i\;;'S5S«5J-'-'*''-^" mm !'¥ g2 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. shipkeeper seized, gagged and confined, steam raised, tlie moorings cast off, when the boat cautionsly passed out onto the lake, and away she went, too speedy to he overtaken by any craft on the lakes. Buffalo owners were compelled to accept the situa- tion, there being no means to head off the fugitive, telegraph poles not then standing in line over the country. The following day Buffalo newspapers an- nounced thus : Lost Strayed ok STOi.EX-The low-pressure steauiboat Mil- wavkie was last seen before day-break this morning rounding the lighthouse and skipping over the waters of Lake Erie. A liberal reward awaits whoever effects her arrest before reaching Lake Michigan. Their Hrst landing was at Silver Creek pier, where they liberated their prisoner, and helped themselves to a few cords of wood there convenient, and then made a straight wake to Put-in-Bay Island, where more fuel was obtained. They then rapidly passed through the rivers to Lake Huron and on to Milwaukee, where she was run hard aground inside the mouth of the river, there to remain until sold to Oliver Newberry, of Detroit, who placed her engine and boilers in his new steamboat XUe. On May 12, 1844, the steamboat Rochester left the foot of Main street, Buffalo, bound for Chicagr), offi- cered as follows: Thomas P. Folger, master; Harry Weishuen, mate; William McGee, engineer; O. H. P. Champlin, clerk; Bartley Logan, steward. ./*.'«';*ji:s*'»v. ,-«;**-•;**(.• .«>&****!*W*I '^$^^m). im^t^^" THE GREAT LAKES. 83 jam raised, isly passed )eedy to be , the wtua- le fugitive, e over the ipapers an- teaniboat Mil- rounding the •le. A liberal ■eacbing Lake pier, where iiemselves to I then made re more fuel through the e, where she of the river, Jewberry, of PS in his new 'ster left the Chicago, offi- ister; Harry iieer; O. H. ird. During his mechanical work engineer McGee had constructed a small steam-whistle, patterned from plans published in the Scientific American, which he attached to the boiler of the Rochester, more foi- its novelty than for its utility. Before the boat left the wharf the whistle was sounded, the first to give voice in the region of the Great Lakes. Prior to the whis- tle, loud-sounding bells were hung above decks on all lake vessels, which supplied the needs of the present steam-whistle. During the winter preceding, Capt. C. L. Gager had made a propeller out of the old steamboat General Porter. Between Gager and McGee rai old feud existed. A few miles below Mackinaw fJie Jioche»ter overliauled the Porter, and when passing her McGee blew his whistle persistently and defiantly. The steam- boat landed at Mackinaw, as also did the propeller. Being unaware that McGee was engineer of the Poch- estcr, (iager appeared at tiie steamboat dock and loudly demanded to be shown the man who " squawked that thing at him." McGee was prompt in leaping on the wharf and shouting, "Take a look at me!" Then came a resolute intervention of mutual friends pre- venting war between two stalwart men. And thus was demonstrated the utility of the steam-whistle and its inauguration on the Great Lakes without bloodshed. Li general, early lake steamboats were officered by sailors who gained their experience on the fleet of sailing vessels navigating Lake Erie prior to the advent of the ^ 'i\t, •'^i.jS^lsisra/^^'rrisw^sSSSjff^SsA-' 84 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. steamboat. A notable exception occurred at the out- set, when Captain Fish was imported from the North River to command the Walk-in-the- Water. When navigating Lake Erie, Captain Fish encountered, to him, a novel experience. During a storm on the lake, Captain Fish became seasick— utterly demoralized— when passengers and crew insisted that mate Davis should assume command of the vessel. This being done, the steaml)oat was safely navigated through the storm; and for the remainder of the season it was Captain Davis, while Captain Fish returned to swim in the more placid waters surrounding Manhattan Island. Thereafter, as a rule, lake steamboats were commanded by lake sailors. Later, however, a more flagrant case occurred which aroused the indignation of lake shipmasters. About 184G, Capt. Henry Randall sold the steamboat Vis- cotisL to William Chard, a gentleman largely engaped in canal transportation. Mr. Chard was an expert in canal navigation, but in no sense a lake navigator. Mr. Chard, firstly, changed the orthography of the name of the boat to Wiskonsan, and then, as a busi- ness proposition, assumed the command, and then the trouble commenced. A " canaler " master of a lake steamboat, was an absurdity intolerable, and war was declared against Mr. Chard and his steamboat Wis- hmsan. An emblematic war— a war of ridicule was diligently waged. In addition to the blowing of horns and shouting " low bridge," canal harness and s-.,s,s>^ai«i»»«>.j-a -*&■• u;^iis,.->f.;''.«ASs*Sfe*fe THE GREAT LAKES. 85 ,t the out- the North -. When intered, to I the lake, loralized — late Davis Dhis being irough the son it was id to swim Manhattan boats were irred which rs. Abont uboat Vis- jly engaged 1 expert in I navigator, phy of the 1, as a biisi- id then the r of a lake id war was mboat Wis- ridicule was blowing of harness and whiffletrees were run aloft on other boats when meet- ing the Wiskonsan. Steamboat agents were diligent in advising travelers that the master of the Wiskonscvi was a landsman, a factor most potent in diverting patronage, and Mr. Chard concluded that business demanded a lake navigator for the master of his steam- boat, and the demand being supplied, hostilities ended and peace was restored. Mr. Chard was energetic in business and social in intercourse with all whom he met, and subsequently was popular in navigation circles. In 1862 the General Government assumed jurisdic- tion of the Great Lakes, when knowledge and experi- ence became indispensable for a commission to com- mand a lake vessel. The serious disasters occurring during the era of side-wheel steam-boating, in the main consisted of the burning of the Washington, Erie and G. P. Griffith on Lake Erie and the Niagara and Sea Bird on Lake Michigan ; the sinking by collision of the Atlantic and Chempeake on Lake Erie, and the Lady Elgin on Lake Michigan ; the foundering of the Sunbeam on Lake Superior, and the Keystone State on Lake Huron. All of these casualties were attended with the loss of human life in a degree horrifying, unless that of the Chesapeake be the exception. The Washington, in 1838, and the Erie, in 1841, were burned when on an upward passage, both at the same point on the lake, off Silver Creek, thirty-five miles out of Buffalo. The steamboat Griffith was *^***«#-mi(i^i^ THE GREAT LAKES. 87 passengers lid spreatl- clasped in n 1860 the ;!apt. John ake Michi- he gave an city. The idren. The was rough ; i into the more, while eneath the icane deck 3ers of the The shore blowing on, le carrying it the other women and bain Wilson hold of him hem. Thus a brave and B steamboat at the Soo, Jad^J Elf/in. ling on the lira, and the two elderly men walked slowly in the direction of the hotel, where boarded the wife of Capt. Jack Wilson. Arm in arm they ascended the hotel stairs. At the top Captain Lundy halted, while Captain Sweet pro- (ieeded to the door of Mrs. Wilson's apartment. The old sailor raised his arm to knock at the door, hesi- tated, and then withdrew, and said, " Lundy, I can't ! " Then the other old sailor essayed to perform the mournful errand, but also returned and said, " Sweet, I can't ! " Then the veterans of many battles with the elements slowly descended the stairs, while brushing aside watery particles, drops which would not have appeared in their eyes ha' ^m.bl 88 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. ■f ! Marquette to Cleveland. On one occasion, at Cleve- land, the CoL Cook was at Lafrinier's ship-yard for repairs. While undergoing such repairs the foreman of the yard discovered that the construction of the supposed foreign-built vessel was his own work ; and, furthermore, that she wa? no other than the missing schooner Augusta, which ran down the steamboat Lady Elgin. But her inhuman absconding crew were not accounted for. The Col. Cook had made six voyages across the Atlantic in the lumber trade. Her hulk is now a tow- barge on the Great Lakes in the lumber trade. Dur- ing the vigils of the night out on the waters, let her crew keep a sharp lookout for the ghostly specters, some two hundred in number, that hover over the craft of ghastly memory. On the night of the 17th of August, 1864, the large hotel at Ontonagon, Lake Superior, was illumi- nated throughout its three stories. Among the guests were a number of men from the sea-board cities, interested in the rich copper mines in that vicinity. Associated with them were mining experts and busi- ness men of the Lake Superior region— in all, a party of about thirty bright men. Their business at Ontona- gon for the time was closed. The steamboat Sunbeam was expected to arrive during the night, on which the party was to take passage down the lake. All were in good spirits, for the viands furnished at the hotel were noted for their excellence, and this was one of *a ■■'«-4i,.. KS&fsssgfciatr.ir- fik^miMSi'^iBi T*n , at Cleve- ip-yard for [le foreman ion of the vork ; and, he missing steamboat f crew were across the now a tow- ade. Dur- :ers, let her ly specters, er the craft , 1864, the was illumi- l the guests oard cities, lat vicinity. s and busi- all, a party I at Ontona- a,t Sunbeam n which the . All were at the hotel was one of THE GREAT LAKES. 89 the gala nights of the booming era of Ontonagcm. During the night the lights of the Snnheam were sighted, the prepared bonfire on the beach was lighted, and soon after the steamboat was anchored off shore. At daybreak all passengers were on board, and the boat started on her passage down the lake, and six hours later the steamboat Snnhcinn, and every soul on board, were at the bottom of Lake Superior, entombed under one hundred fathoms of the coldest lake water on the globe, and where each and every vi(!tim yet remains. Tliere is no resurrection there — the water of Lake Superior never gives up its dead. On that fatal day an inunense vacuous space must have suddenly occurred in the southeast. Never before or since has the air been known to move over Lake Superior with equal velocity. The frail steamboat Sunbeam was wholly unequal to the contest. To safely encounter such a tempest her unfortunate pas- sengers and crew might as well have taken passage on a hoop-skirt. To counteract the solemnity of melancholy reading, a humorous incident of the navigation of Lake Supe- rior is here related. Prior to the opening of the Soo Canal the propellers Manhattan and Monticello were conveyed overland to Lake Superior. On a day when no other boats were on the lake, in day-time and clear weather, when four miles off shore, where the lake is one hundred and fifty miles wide, they met and collided. Both boats '•'«*(*Sj$i^'^S^I&^ia^igiViyi**s-:»,«w4i»;*i-j.i i-«.-.'i».'^U^>.^i-V.r^-;<^.jiHyiii^Sir^-- w 90 MODERN ANTigUITIES. were coinpelltHl to make for the shore, where their wrecks still remain l)urie«l in the Hiiiul. This rare feat was a consolation to (tanal boatmen — that they were not classed as mariners. In 1841, the first i)roi)eller steamer known to the lakes, was, under the auspices of the inventor of tlu' ♦ : .f The PROPKUiEK Vandalia— 1842. First Propbller on thk Lakes. screw-wheel. Captain Ericsson, built at Oswego, by Capt. James Van Cleve. Prior to the Oswego boat, a propeller hatl been built at New York, and when ex- amining that vessel. Captain Van Cleve entered into an arrangement with the inventor to build a propeller for the lakes, and to exhibit her at the principal lake ports— hence the Vandalia, the original lake propeller. ■..-.;?9«6e»t*sv.cA«',- i'^ hevf theii- 8 rare feat they were iwn to the itor of thf Dswego, by i^ego boat, a ul when ex- snterecl into a propeller incipal lalie ce propeller. THE (J RE AT LAKES. 91 Under the (>onnnan, Novem- ber, 1841, and tlie working of the Moruw-wheel was prononneed a HiiceeHS. In May, 1H42, the Vnndalid made the passage of the Welland Canal to Lake Erie, and at Hnffalo was inspected with euriosity and interest by lake trans- porters and navigators, her advantages being explained by Ca])tain Ericsson in perstm. Then, by the Ilollis- ters, owners of the steamboats St. /^oids and >S'a//- (IhhIij^ an arrangement was made to build two j)ro- pellers, and the next season ap])eared in commission the propeller Ilerctifes, Capt. F. S. Wheeler, and the Sampsun, Capt. Amos Pratt, and both were placed as freighters in trade with Lake Michigan ports. In 1844 appeared another propeller, constrncted by the HoUisters — the upper cabin passenger propeller Princeton, commanded by Capt. Amos Pratt. Com- paratively, the Princeton was a modern constructed vessel, and a success. But, as a rule, lake navigators did not I'emlily take to the propeller, and not until the middle fifties, when the railroads had paralleled the shores of the lakes, and relegated into inactivity the side-wheel passenger steamer, did the propeller come into universal use on the lakes. The prejudice against the propeller was well illus- trated when Capt. Fred S. Miller refused one as a gift. For several seasons F. S. Miller had sailed as mate with Capt. Levi Allen, while nursing th« hope :\ '^^^;.^/..:-il,:A.;:_j,^i^^^^2^^-^^^^^ -■■•?\sias^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 141 ■ 50 m m 1.4 M 2.0 1= 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) fl72-4503 ^ s^ \ ;V \\ % v o\ 't-'...v<> ^j ' f^?^'j"'' '' '^'^;';'^jaifaiMjia;> jgp^?fr &? W, CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microroproductions hittoriquos C^ Jl 92 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. that his thrifty brother, Cant, W. T. Miller, would aoqnire the requisite interest in some side-wheeler to make him the master thereof. About 1846, Capt. W. T. Miller became possessed of a propeller, when he said to his bi-other Fred, that he could take and run her on his own account. But tlie generous offer was promptly declined, and in a manner emphatic. " I want to say to you. Captain Miller, that I am mate of the steamboat Niagara, and don't propose to abandon that position to be master of a thing like that." For several years thereafter, " I want to say to you, Cap- tain Miller," was an expression frequent among lake men, until worn out. However, the marked superiority of the propeller for deep water navigation was soon acknowledged throughout the civilized world. Fleets of grain and lumber-laden sail vessels began to make the passage of the straits, connecting Lakes Huron and Erie, in the early forties. The delays in- cident to such passages, caused by adverse winds, sug- gested a system of towing between the lakes, and for such purpose the small side-wheel steamboats, then plentiful, were utilized for towing through the rivers Detroit and St. Clair. In the meantime the screw-wheel had demonstrated its superior power, and the more wieldy boat, with power applied under the stern, hence the screw-wheel tug-boat — now universal in waters of civilization. Harbor towing, as an industry, was not inaugurated under favorable auspices, as at first its progress was Hi THE GREAT LAKES. 98 slow. When in port vessel men were chary of k. tug, fearing damage to themselves, or of causing it to others when moving about with their lines aboard. When becalmed on the lake, they were glad to be towed to the entrance of the harbor, where they would drop the tu^,, run their lines and warp the vessel tc the dock or elevator. The first lake harbor towing was in Buffalo Creek, in 1852. During the winter of 1851-2, four screw-wheel tug-boats were under con- struction at Buffalo, all of which were placed in com- mission during the season of 1852. First to appear was the George W. Tift, in June, owned by Elias and Thomas Simms, the latter her navigator. Length, 75 feet ; beam, 16 feet ; depth, 7 feet. However, the Tift was not the original screw-wheel tug-boat of the lakes. In 1851, the propeller tug Franklin was built at Albany, and upon the opening of the Erie Canal, in t) e spring of 1852, she made the passage of the canal to Buffalo, arriving there prior to the first of June, and at once commenced towing in Buffalo Creek, two weeks prior to the appearance of the George W. Tift. To skillfully manage a tug-boat in close quarters requires the hand and brain of an expert. Prompt action and a level head alone will often prevent dis- aster. Tiie law makes the operator liable in cases of malpractice. The tug-boat is distinguished as a life and property saver. Often has it given timely aid in places diffi- i' i 1 ft i J-"»4S«i' 'r 94 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. -when a life was rescued, or prop- eult and dangerous- evty saved from loss. The tug-boat captain is honored by the supposition that he and his boat are equal to any emergency, and usually they fill the bill. An Episode. In 1866, the tug-boat Joe D. Dudley was ..tationed at Marquette. When November came, the Soo River tugs, in order to share a rush of business on the river St. Clair, abandoned the late fleet of Lake Superior. Vessels had to make their way to Lake Huron the best th y could. The ore shippers at Marquette gave in- ducement for the Dudley to go to the Soo and tow the abandoned vessels through the river to Lake Huron. December came when all but two of the fleet had passed down — the schooners lieindeer and William Shupe being still above the canal. On the third day of December the Dudley passed up the river to the caaal in the midst of a violent storm of wind and snow, continuous for forty-eight hours. On the early morning of the fifth the Dtidley left the canal in search of the belated vessels, with migivings as to their fate. However, when rounding Point Aux Pins, the schooners were sighted, rolling at their anchors below Point Iroquois. The tug went alongside of the ^hu2)e and found her crew heaving up anchors while treading a coating of ice overspreading the deck of the vessel — in fact, all above water-line wa* ice-bound. Then the tug poiiited for the lieindeer, with a view of tail- or prop- i honored ! equal to ..tationed >oo River the river Superior. 1 the best gave in- d tow the e Huron, fleet had William third day er to the wind and the early canal in IS to their Pins, the ors below ;he iShupe s treading the vessel id. Then )w of tail- THE GREAT LAKES. 95 ing her to the Shupe. IHe little schooner presented a weird scene of frigid desolation. There she hung to her cables, responding to the roll of a heavy sea, and without a sail lowered— all hanging in frozen tatters. All in sight was ice-bound, and not a humar soul in evidence, and the sounding of the whistle for a time failed to produce life. The roll of the vessel made the boarding thereof extremely ^I'fficult. Finally a man was placed aboard, just as a human head peered above the cabin hatchway — the most unkempt head imaginable — the head of Capt. Redmond Rider, and which gave voice inquisitively, "What do you want?" Darkness covered the waters when the schooners were trowed into the canal, a well-remembered day of toil- some work for the crews of vessels and tug. On De- cember 6th the Shupe was towed to Lake Huion, while the Reindeer remained at the Soo, presumably for the winter. There new sails were made, when the vessel was sailed to Detroit, directed by an intrepid man who knew not fear. Five years later, Redmond Rider, with his command, the propeller R. G. Colmm, went to the bottom of Lake Huron, there to join his brother, who had pre- ceeded him a couple of years to a watery sepulcher in the same section of the lake, and where they are to- gether entombed under forty fathoms of water. The Rider brothers were widely known among lake sailors, were considered typical seamen, noted for their intre- pidity aud unostentatious demeanor. ;.i Tsm^a^.f-' 96 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. CHAPTER VIII. During the concluding year of the village era, Dib- (lell Holt was publicly executed, November, 1831, for killing his wife, and his was thr last public execution in Buffalo. On this occasion the gallows was erected at the junction of Genesee street and the Terrace. In Holt's case the fact was noted that he first came to Buffalo from a distance with the throng who came to witness the hanging of the three Thaycrs. Six years later he was the star performer in a like tragedy, pre- sented on the same stage, and to many who were of the same audience, marching in procession over the identical ground traversed by the famous culprits whose execution his curiosity to witness was the pre- cursor of hib own doom. While in Buffalo, in 1825, Holt became impressed with the glowing prospects of the town, remaining there several days prospecting for a location. He returned to his home, married, and at once settled in Buffalo. Being possessed of a sum of money, he purchased a lot and store thereon, on the west side of Main, a few doors above Court street, in which he established a grocery, his residence being in the story above. During the first three years of his residence in Buffalo, Holt was considered a model husband, living happily with liiUlinii I SKETCHES. 97 his wife, but, contracting intemperate habits, he became sullen and morose, then cross anil abnsive to his wife. Her reproaches for his increasing intemperance often produced ruptures between them, when he would assure her that her days were numbered ; that she would never attend his funeral, and like assertions. The day before the murder he dismissed his clerk, and closed his store. His confession after conviction discloses that he went into the room where she was sitting with their child in her arms, and while driving a nail in the wall near the ceiling, a miss-stroke caught his thumb, and at his outcry, caused by pain, she snickered, whereupon he struck her three blows on the head with the hammer, intending to kill her, which he did almost instantly. Holt then fled, meeting the ser- vant girl on the stairs, who gave alarm, and the fugi- tive was pursued to the outskirts of the village, where he was found secreted in a log and brush heap, where now is Day's Park, and placed in jail. When con- fronted with his victim, he said thai the inquest was useless ceremony, that he killed his wife, and that she deserved killing. For committing the ghastly deed. Holt deserved greater punishment than he received. The locomotive first appeared in Buft'alo in 1836, running to and from Niagara Falls. The next railroad to enter the town was the Buffalo and Attica, in 1842. Prior to the railroads, the four-horse str.ge coach ran out of the city on all routes. An old time advertise- ment reads thus : ill :^f^>''iiif:4j^.i(ii^^^S^^i'^Mvi*^^-'-:>^'^l^^^ ,'t a *i.w^''-''»-K;ti'j^«f|iS.^ ■'I 98 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. COACH LINES. The Pilot Mail Coach. Leaves Buffalo every evening, arriving at Geneva tbe first day, I'tica the second, and Albany the third. The Diligence Coach. Leaves Buffalo every morning at 8 o'clock, arrives at Avon the first night. Auburn the second, Utica the third, and Albany the fourth. The Lewibton Coach. Via the Falls. Leaves Buffalo every morning at 6 o'clock, arriving at Lewiston 7.80 p. m. The Canada Coach. For the Falls. Leaves every morning at 8 o'clock, arriving at tue Falls at Noon. Extras furnished on either side of the river at any hour. The Westekn Mail Coach. For Fredonia, Erie and Cleveland. Leaves Buffalo every morning at 5 o'clock. Baggage at risk of the owners. Bela D. Cob, and others. Buffalo, March, 1828. E L. Stevenson, Agert. Such were the conveniences of travel out of Buffalo sixty years ago— four days in a stage to Albany, now six hours in a luxurious car, and many passengers are impatient if there be a half-hour's detention. And such is favored human nature. mmam c, arriving lide of the f Buffalo )any, now ingers are an. And SKETCHES. 99 Here is an advertisement published in a loca! news- paper of 1828: For Sale. — A farm in the immediate vicinity, one-half mile from the court-house, situated l>etween two public road^, one of which will un(|ue8tionably be adopted as the Great National Koad between B\iiTalo and Washington. Of the premises there are about fifty-three acres, clear and stumpluss, and producing good crops. Thereon is a good house and barn, and as good a sjiriug of water as any in the country, and also |700 worth of good post JouN O. Camp. 1828. and rail fence. Buffalo, Sept. The " farm " now comprises the realty bounded by Main, North, Delaware and Virginia streets. The spring of water referred to was located on the south- west corner of the tract, and is yet in evidence in the rear of the line of dwellings on Delaware avenue and Virginia street, covered by a dilapidated old frame- work. Around this spring, under the shade of majestic elms, were wont to camp the Indians of tlie vicinity, even unto the time of the advent of the city. In 1828 there appeared at New York City a con- spicuous character named Sam Patch, who subse- quently became notorious in Buffalo and throughout Western New Yoi-k. Sam possessed an inordinate desire for public notoriety, and, to gain such distinc- tion, he risked life and limb in jumping from the mast- heads of anchored ships into the waters of the North River. Such exploits of Sam Patch aroused the covet- iveness of public purveyors who profit by the assem- 1 ■^eStM^^^SM^^^Miiai^^iiiif^i^'mi*'' 'jM^s^mte^,M^.'^*tig^)ii^st>mh^me 100 MODERN ANTigUITIKS. blage of jicople I'n ma»8i\ prominently the hotel and Hhoi)-keei)er8 at Niagara Falls. In Septenihoi , 1829, it was announced far and wide that Sam Patch would jump the Niagara Falls, and then throughout the surrounding country the scheme was the general topic of conversation, the many incred- ulous scoffing at its absurdity. That Sam Patch ha»l jumped from a height into the still waters of the North River was admitted, but that he would attempt a dive into the maelstro-n of Niagara was considered an absurdity. This pronounctd skepticism brougni forth from the illustrious scapegrace his historic utter- ence: "Some things can be done as well as others." This homely speech became proverbial and was quoted universally for years thereafter. However, on October 6, 1829, Sam Patch, from a staging projecting from the Biddle staircase, leaped into the comparatively still waters below. After a drop of 125 feet through tne air he disappeared from view, but in due time appeared at the surface and was picked up uninjured, the hero of the hour and occasion. On the platform, before making the leap, Sam mani- fested his frivolous egotism by hilariously singing a ribald verse : "I wish I were in Buffalo, Uood friends along with me, I'd call for liquors plenty — Have flowing bowls on ever side ; Hard fortune never grieved me — 1 am young and the world is wide." ■uWilAiMt MHia. SKETCHES. 101 Then placing to \\h \\\»h a flank of rum he took a deep draught, and then added a couplet to his singing : "Good l!(|Uor in a poor iiian'H house Is a pleasing thing to view." And then he jumped, maintaining good posture while in descent. There is a legend that Sam Patch repeated his jump at the Falls, drawing a larger crowd of witnesses tlian on the first occasion. However, adhering to his proniinciamento that " some things can be done as well as others," it was soon after announced that Sam would jump the Genesee Falls at Kochester, which he did, and at the same time jumped into eternity. From a platform elevated thirty feet above the brink of the cataract he leaped into the waters below, never again to rise in life. He was hilariously drunk, and in his descent he swung his arms wildly. When his body was found it was noted that both shoulder-joints were dislocated, the effect of striking the water with arms extended. Such was the rise and fall of the original of the present race of Steve Brodies. At the close of 1831 Buffalo was a thriving village of nine thousand inhabitants, with the rapidly increas- ing commerce of Lake Erie promoting its growth. That a community of pioneers, impoverished by war and burdened with debt, contracted in re-establishing their homes despoiled in the conflict — the situation in 1820 — should within the decade develop a frontier 111 : ■Mi0mi^^i»i^^i^iame:i!ms!mm^^m^msmam^mm ir-W 102 MOnKRN ANTIQUITIK8. Iminlet into an iniiwrtant conun^rcial city was an achievement without a parallel— a eonHummation n»a»lo possible through the peraeverauce, spirit and energy of its citizens. Granger, Forward, Townsend, Wilkeson, Coit, Allen, Tracy, Johnson, Walden, Pratt, Chapin, Marshall, Trowbridge, Austin, Potter, Miller, Barton, Barker, Bennett and Ileaoock, were a«i irresistible force in promoting public enterprise. In April, 1832, the important village became an ambitious young city. i8tn. " Hure, on these asbor,," the forefathers cried, " We'll now build a temple of trade ; " "Bravo !" cried Lalte Erie, swelling with pride, "I'll cheerily join the parade." 1882. The Pioneers wrought, their work was done, Their temple was wondrous fair ; The City entered and stood on the pedestal atone, And waved her cap high in the air. From the beginning Buffalonians have ever been conftdently enthusiastic in their predictions of an im- portant future for their village and city. By its founders the infant city was christened with sublime confidence that wealth and importance awaited its early future. The predictions then made were, at the time, considered illusionary, born of unwonted enthu- siasm, by other communities. At this advanced period they read like the profound statements of one who had. 'i. .iraii SKETCH E8. 108 by Divine power, been entrusted with a foresiglit of the future. Appended \h tlie writing of one of the foumlers of the eity : The "go-ahead" of tho brave ami eccentric Crockett, Las be- come the watchword of the n^f. In every dejinrtnient of civilized life, in litttrntiire, in science, in mechanical arts, in the lidjors of the field, all seem to listen with delight to this spirit- stirrinj? talisman, and rush onward, with redoubled enerjf.v, to wealth and greatness. The march of mind is onward ; our means of education are enlarging and extending their enlightening intiuences over the land ; now discoveries are daily adding to the legacy of former times ; the power of machinery is api)lied to almost every purpose of public utility or private enterprise in which speed is attained or lalior performed — steamboats capable of contending with winds and tide, railroads which will soon enalde the home-bred farmer to make the tour of the state in almost the time it takes to traverse his own ilomain. Within the past fifty year'? mighty changes have been wrought in the relative importance and geographical extent of these I'nited States — New England, once the nucleus around which gathered the hopes of our infant country — the center of strength and power, to whose arm the feel)le branches of this family of republics looked for protection. But the scene is changed. The western world has been explored, new states have erisen as if by magic, and every year adds thousands to the throngs who have left their fatherland to rear their altars amidst the charms of the western wilderness. The great channel of communication between the Eastern and Western States is fixed by Nature through the chain of lakes forming the division between the United States and the British possessions on the north. The Erie Canal affords a safe, easy, expeditious and cheap mode of travel, and for conveying heavy merchandise, and which forever must remain the principal thor- oughfare. While goods can be shipped in New York and safely landed in Chicago in twel ve days with only two re-shipments, it ,iF li%itH^^ »:ijm)^t0mmi«eBi^»f^iff^,t:iimti!!iiif>- u 104 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. is not to be considered that merchants will seek other channels. With these advantages and prospects in view, the people of Buf- falo may well be proud of their home, proud of the fame already acquired of their infant city. It has n.-. rival — it can have none. Cities west of u.s may arise to wealth aud importance, but they will be our tributaries ; their growth our growth, their greatness our greatness — all combined furnish a fit epitome of the materials which are to maks*i4iiS&!FS%S»Vj;Stii^*ii*»'»«^ •'W.-,*^5(^^i^isii*V*^;^(i"!.-5.'jefei,«e-:'A^fti»A'.'«' ^4, 106 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. EA(4LE STHEET THEATRE. A. Brisiiane, Proprietor. Dean & McKinney, Lessees and Managers. This splendid bouse will be opened July 20, 1835. The capacity of the building is exceeded by few in tha Union. There are four tiers of boxes and a sparious pit, all furnished with com- fortable seats ; the three lower tiers with backs to the seats. The scenery and embellishments are of a style not surpassed by any theatre in the world. The whole is lighted by oletiant gas, man ufactured on the premises. The managers are well known in Buffalo, and their eilorts will be exerted to retain the kindness they have always experienced at the hands of the public. Per- formances every week-day night during the season. The " season " was during the 'noatha of lake navi- gation. When navigation closed the theatre did likewise for the winter months. The pit was consigned by the managers to the t' wn boys — not the bad boys, but the good boys, who didn't die young — as their exclusive domain, and where they congregated nightly, at twenty -five cents per head, to witness Dan Marble in his masterly presentation of the " Game Cock in the Wilderness," and other specialties, not forgetting occasions when Edwin Forrest, supported by Josephine Clifton, was enacting Shakespearian tragedies. Mr. Dean was quite popular with the young people, with whom he maintained a genial famil- iarity. During a week of Forrest and Miss Clifton, the swells in the boxes leveled opera-glasses upon the stage, a proceeding novel to the boys in the pit, they considering the application of a spy-glass at such short range too silly for anything. i 1 1 iS 1'! Ill * ■ The Orioinal Za::le Street Theatre— 1835. '-^^f^^^sd^^mx^^'- '^^^^^'^■yi^iS^^i^f^^^^f'*^ ?.i-J[i[%m'^ -.. '■.j^^A^ci^-fi^. -U, i-r ■. -^-iirtB^i: .■.,--"^='^l.-7>/';-.-^M-fS?lE^ 108 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. On Franklin above Chippewa street there lived a Dutch family named Snyder, in whose garden were a growth of seed cucumbers, sizeable and yellow, which, by boring lenj^thwise and connecting a pair of them, contrived a fair imitation of an opera-glass — good enough for four boys who entered the pit with such imitations concealed under their coats. During a scene when the glasses were focused upon the stage from the lower tier, the imitations were pro- duced and focused in burlesque. Strange enough, this quietly-conducted proceeding aroused a violent disturb- ance among the hoodlums in the gallery — continuous until it caused the premature dropping of the curtain. Whereupon, Mr. Dean appeared at the foot-lights, his appearance receiving the clapping of hands from the pit. But the usual smile did not beam on the counte- nance of Mr. Dean, it having an earnest cast. Mr. Dean began talking to the pit as a whole, reminding the boys of his friendly action in providing for their amusement and comfort, and then, fixing his eyes on the culprits sitting in a row, requested them to lay aside the disturbing elements that the performance might proceed without interruption. The kindly man- ner of Mr. Dean subdued the boys unto contrition, whereupon the guilty cucumbers were cast aside and order was resumed. Performance at the theatre was suspended during the close of lake navigation, when the pit would be floored over, and which, with the stage, formed a com- o SKETCHES. 109 modious dancing arena. Here public balls were held during the winter season. On Franklin street resided a family named Postle, whose daughters were noted for their comeliness, and also as expert dancers, and who were frequent in attendance at the balls. The late Judge Talcott, then active, was usual in attend- ance — fond of the recreation. At the time was clandestinely published The Old Corporal, a weekly journal, 7 by 9 in size, which on the street met with ready sale, its columns giving high- wrought reports of scenes at the balls, and which, on an occasion, included the verse : " What Tall-outs he made when attempting to wing, And an Apostle could waltz as if Fanny had lent her — Her heels for the evening to whirl in the ring." The Old Coiporal was the sensation of the town, until its publishers were smoked out — a brace of prin- ters engaged on the Express. The veteran dispenser of billiards, Darwin A. Slaght, was then an expert typo, and a co-perpetrator. His present sedate presentment denies the impeachment. Pei'ish the thought ! In the fall of 1839, a full year prior to the election, a Whig National Convention assembled at Harrisburg, Pa., and nominated presidential candidates: William Henry Harrison, for President, and John Tyler, for Vice-President. In May, 1840, a Democratic National Convention convened at Baltimore, Md., where Martin Van Buren was noniinated for i-e-election as President. Subsequently the Democratic National Committee .■i;«gSii**W'trf'Ss^i'v*fry»>^»*iS-i'^^ •r^^i ;siit i.-i, ^//--yos •- ■ 110 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. placed Richard M. Johnson on their ticket for Vice- President, and then the trouble commenced — the log- cabin, hard-cider, coon-skin campaign for Tippecanoe and Tyler too — and the fur flew and the liquid flowed until the closing of the polls in November. It was really a picnic campaign, a season of festivity, revelry and song, whei-eby General Harrison was virtu- ally f.ung into the White House. Apparently, the chief issue involved was the oft-repeated inquiry : " What has caused this great commotion — motion — motion — the country through ? " and which the singers themselves invariably answered in another line: " It is the ball a rolling on for Tippecanoe and Tyler too ; " and to which in gracious assurance ♦^d their opponents they added : " And with them we'll beat little Van — Van, Van is a used-up man." The song was universal, like marching through Georgia, sung by marching thousands of men, women and children. The center of gravity for the Whig campaigners of Buffalo was the " Log Cabin,"' located for the time on the then vacant lot on the northeast corner of Main and Eagle streets. The cabin was a typical back-woods structure, the ex- terior decorated with grub-hoes, brush-hooks* ox-yokes, hanging scythes, gourds, crooked-necked squashes, bunches of corn-in-the-ear, coon-skins nailed on flesh- side out, and other articles traditional to pioneer in- dustry. At the Log Cabin open house to all comers was maintained during the canvass — barrels of cider constantly on tap, and open barrels of apples, gratis to '■^*'tf^iai^i^ ; . :■ ■.!',■ I .'^!^'!i- -^i^S^ .■H#sa^vs?4j»^%-.>-'' '~-^^'i>J^Mhf»it6iv^^^'af'^^it:>K^'^^Ji;^i^»i^3!^£M^'' 112 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. \ all who wonltl join the chorus. We boys would gather at the cabin to hear the great crowd of men there assembled sing : "The beautiful girlH, Ood bless tbeir oouls — Souls — souls — the country through ; They will to a man do all they can For Tippecanoe and Tyler too." The incongruity in the third line impressed the verse upon my youthful simplicity, permanent in mem- ory for the half century and more intervening. The Buffalo Historical Society preserves a faithful presentment of the historic Log Cabin. In point of numbers in attendance, and in its varied and unique features, the Whig Mass Meeting at Buf- falo, November 7, 1840, was the most notable political gathering that ever before assemblee Hrst pavement was laid in 188»;, on NIain corner of Krie street, Benjamin Uatlil>un ordering it laid as a sample. It consisted of wooden Itloeks, nine inches scpmre, which extended u\} al)out half-way across Erie street anrev- iuinici]ml between tare difli- inverted ike that, r'phies, as 1 eounter- eveal the . It was latever to ;)f aniuHe- f the fun- Board of he cost of idred dol- lefore the r's load of ice. Fred f the San )n a " uni- consisting SKKTCIIKH. Ufl of the city directory, the leaves cut out and connected lengthwise. His memorial promised that over the dial would he erected a shed to protect it from the sun I Finally, under the tlarkness of u'ght, the *' what-was-it" cscai)ed, ])roltaltly, aide, October 18, 1844. To tliose participating in these historic events, the local flood was the less considerate, giving no warning to its vic- tims, but instead an unheralded avalanche of waters came upon a sleeping connnunity, the howling tempest arousing them frcmi their slumbers like the sKmnd of a Hre-ltell at night. For three days previous to tlu- flood of waters, a northeast wind had been continuous, driving the waters of the lake tipwards, when the wind s\iddenly shifted to the ojjposite direction with tre- mendous force, bringing with it a flood of waters to the foot of the lake, greater than ever before or since known, inundating the lower districts of Buft'alo, de- molishing scores of dwellings and other buildings, spreading ruin along the harbor front, playing liavoc with the shipping, and causing great destruction or life. Not until the night of the 19th did the gale abate its -.,-jB*=' "",''1 '' y^y^'X^i^ I! §1 116 MODERN ANTIQUITIEB. vjdwity, and tlie water . reomle. The rise of water can be imagined from the fact that Itefore the Idow the Hteamboat ColtnnhiiH waH aground in the river at the foot of Indiana street, and when the waters receded the steamboat was left behind on ( )hio street. The adult male population of the city were active in the rescue of the imperiled and providing relief for the suffering during tiie early morning and through the day. The nuuiicipal hall over the Terrace Market was thronged with agonized people scanning bodies of the drowned as they were brought in, fearfully expectant of discovering missing friends whom they hoped might be somewhere in life. A like scene was at the court-house, where the bodies of the dead lay in rows awaiting identification. There strong men were moaning over the inanimate bodies of wives and children, while mothers and children were weej)- ing over the dead botlies of male members of their families. In the memory of the writer the arrival of that ter- rific first blast of wind remains vivi«l. He was sleeping in the upjier room of a house then and now standing on North Main street, in a room comprising the length and breadth of the front portion of the house. The first blast carried the sash of the west end window bodily against the east wall of the room near the head of the bed, shattering the glass into a thousand frag- ments. He has ever since been unable to recall his sensation on being thus violently awakened, other than HKETCHKH. 117 a vagiio realization of kingdom come — nomething of that im]>ort. Mon wlio saw the initial wave invade lower Main and Commercial streets, stated that it rolled up and |ioured into the canal with roaring sound. At the corner of Main and Ohio streets thei-e was a 'lepth of six feet of water, and of four feet at !'.»change and Michigan streets. All territory on the level of outer Exchange street was alike inundated. Many harbor i'vah were left distant from their element when the waters receded. The flat lands southeast of the city were strewn with wreckage. For the second time the steamboats CohiinlntH and Chautauqua required launching into the waters of the lake. Published details told of many providential escapes and timely rescues. Over the river near the shijvyard were two families, each consisting of parents and one child, liv- ing in houses adjoining. To escape the rising waters, both families took refuge on the roof of the stancher building, where they saw the other crumble and float away with all it contained. Soon after the house on which they were perched collapsed and floated off with the floo-r.^:igV:-:'<-,~f-i":f"r--^i^^:^^^ SKETCHES. 125 "Take a look at the one on the other side," said the farmer. Tho more John looked at him the better he liked him. " He looks fairly well," said John. " Yes, he's an extra good colt, and if a man wants to buy, I'll sell cheap, for I must raise some money," said the farmer. " What do you hold him at?" said John. "One hundretl and forty dollars will buy him," said the farmer. John answered this with a significant whistle. In a manner unconcerned, John stepped aside, but soon after casually offered one hundred dollars for the colt, which offer the farmer declined to accept, and then this acute interview ended. After finding out from another farmer where " that man lived," John drove to Efner's, when the scene before related occurred. That night the farmer's colt haunted John's sleep, and the next day he thought of some business he didn't have in the town of Alden, where lived the farmer who hail a horse whose owner John considered failed to appreciate his full value. The next morning a couple of hours' drive brought John Pierce to a farm house in Alden, where he halted, ostensibly to make an inquiry. There John was surprised to find the owner of the young horse that he had "no use for, but liked to look at." After some irrelevant talk, the farmer brought the colt out to show Mr. Pierce his action when turned loose in a paddock. The ex- PflS^S 126 MODKRN ANTIQUITIES. hibition increased tJohn's admiration for the animal. Finally he renewed hia offer of one hundred dollars for him. " Can't sell him for that, hut I want money, and you ean take hin) for ■'S'125," said Mr. Brown. .lolm shook his head, as he walked slowly to wliere his horse stood, l>ut faced about and offered to split the difference. " Can't hardly do that," said Mr. Brown. Then flohn entered his buggy and started off slowly, feeling assured that he would be called bac^k ; but the call came not, and John drove home feeling sorry that he was not leading the coveted colt which he had de- termined to buy in any event. At Efner's stable, the next morning, John said to George : " George, my boy, I am going to Lockport to-day, but to-morrow I'm going for the horse I told you about. IVIy mare is a little lame, and the road is rather heavy. You have a pair hooked up for me early in the morning, and when I return will show you something that will please you." Soon after a load of hay was driven to Efner's stable to be unloaded. The man with the hay said to Efner: " Who was that man talking to you when I drove up?" " Why, that was John Pierce, the deputy sheriff, don't you know him ? " " No ; but I saw him out our way yesterday trying .VV'W.'*»«Mifttli!M»SiillcaSSs*i**4<<^^ SKETCHES. 127 to buy a horse of luy neighbor, Mr. lirown, but they couWn't make a trade." Then George was interested. "What sort of a horse is it?" "Mighty good colt, 1 tell you, best one in our town." This information was nuts and wine for Efner, and soon after he was on his way to Alden, and that even- ing he placed a young horse that formerly belonged to farmer Brown, in a stall of his stable — his property. The next morning John promptly appeared, the team was ready, and off he went after Mr. Brown's colt. On his arrival Mr. Brown was in front of his house. " Good morning," said John. " (Tood morning, Sheriff," said Mr. Brown. " Mr. Brown, I've concluded to take the colt at your f!gur^. Here's your money, and here's a leading-bridle to put on him," said Mi-. Pierce. "What are you driving at?" said the farmur. " Why, you've got the horse there, on the off side. Mr. Efner was out here yesterday and bought him." For the moment John Pierce was stunned, and when he regained his breath he ejaculated, "Holy Ghost!" then applying the whip, the horses shot out as if answering a fire-alarm. On the way home John was unable to solve a conundrum by himself propounded : " How in hades did George Efner learn of that horse?" When John reached the city it occurred to him that his business down-town was not pressing, so he gave I i! I Is ^vs^iTsmsfH' ;«te*Wi**tea«a^' «x'*ssRf^ in'mm&iea^s&'aSi'xaas^&S^msiSXS^^ 128 MODKKN ANTigurriES. t)ie team to a ])oli(;einan to drive to Efner'H ntaMe. When the frieiulH next met (ieorge anked : " John, didn't you get the horse ? " " No," Haid tlohn. " I discovered a nice little npavin growing on his hin^t-*iW.»s---'--?-Bfc5-i "ikU^K^'ttAoil^- ■ ■*•■ g, Atluiii Wiiliain MicliHfl C'lan'm-*'. trtHtp oil for the tioiiH. (•Ill event ircH from rt'foveretl, far and >taine4l of ey lueak- rpetratorH rtH named the I^iH II Buffalo, Main and leritt" waH siting hiH rrest. He m at bay, was placed raid was 1 jail. At e was cou- } years at crime, but HKETCIIKR. 181 in frrai;iouH comiHMiMation ended his life in the Ohio |H'nitentiary. S|>eediiig liorseH on the snow-path was an old-time winter aniUHement in Huifalo. The scenes attendant on early o4>easions, tirst on Main and then on Delaware street, are now refieated on Richmond Avenue. New Year's Day in ye olden time was celebrated in social reunions — out sleighing in huge sleighs drawn by four and six horses, decorated with phimes and Hags, which, together with hundreds of smaller turn-outs, (tonstituted a carnival of g(MMl cheer — a day of jubilee. But the actors in the old comedies have in the main disap- peared. M«Klern atftors may be interested in the rehearsal of a scene presented on Delaware avenue forty-iive years ago: Time, .fanuary 1, 1864. The writer, with horse and sleigh at Main and Seneca streets, espies an acquaintance on the walk, a resident «)f an adjacent village, hurrying up-town. " Hello, George ! Whither are you drifting ? " " Going up to Stevenson's to get a rig — want to see the trottei-s." "Just so. Get in here under this robe, I'll show you the circus." " All right. Here I am ; now proceed. But we'll need some cigars. Pull up at Boas's and I'll skip in and get some." The cigars were lighted and the drive was to Niagara N I w'-: f^-ff '^ 132 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. Square, where we found Delaware avenue filled with turn-outs. " Here we are in the midst of them. Now we'll join the procession and see how people enjoy cold feet and blue noses." My companion was all observant. " That's a nice old gentleman with that big chestnut, who's he?" " That's Jacob 8. Miller and ' Old Captain '—man and horse — both are captains." " Jerush ! That's a nobby establishment, horses and sleigh, with colored plumes." " Yes ; that's A. D. Patchin, the banker. The large man on the rear seat is Asa B. Meech. Both have the horse distemper." "Here's a fine horse. Who's the driver with fur cap, collar and gloves ? " » That's Chandler Wells ; he, too, has the disease." " That's a fine pair— that sorrel and black, hooked up light. Who's the airy chap driving ' " " Oh, that's West India Mills. But the horses are all right—' William T. Porter' and ' Belle of Saratoga.' They can road a thirty clip. The man in furs with the brown mare is Frederick Gridley, the oroker. The man and wife in the Portland are Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Fox. The lady is the daughter of a horseman and inheritij admiration for the animal." " Who are those larks? " Kf til .f.'i*-:>.Ji;,2*y^^i=,4^.^^■^sS^*^«i^^ ■ filled with w we'll join Id feet and lig chestnut, itain ' — man , horses and . The lai'ge [>th have the 'ei' with fur bhe disease." lack, hooked le horses are )f Saratoga.' Furs with the »roker. The Mrs. Arthur )rseinan and SKETCHES. 133 " Walter Harris and George Coburn, and the mare h the trotter ' Knownothing.' Wait till you see them pass through with the gang. It will make you hold your cap on." " That gray pacer is a dandy. And so are the two sports in the cutter, I should say." "You've guessed it. That's Cart Sawin and Ed. Blancan. Their gray pony can melt the snow when set going. The man in the plain cutter is Jay Petti- bone, the distiller. His horse is liable to be speedy. That tandem? Why, that's Doctor Gary, and he enjoys it." " Who's the fat old chap on the rear seat of that hack sleigli?" "That's Charles Norton, Buffalo's Jack Falstaft." " lie looks as if he loved sack." " You bet." " That yellow bay is a good stepper, and I reckon the driver is another." " Yes, yea, right you are. That's Lanse Thomas and ' Canary Bird.' When she sings he jigs." "Can he dance?" " Dance ! It would make you shed tears to see him sing and dance ' Uncle Snow' : " "My name is Uncle Snow, I Lave you all to know, I's (le slickest wid de brush in ^11 creation ; • I's gwine down to Washington to take a little job, To whitewash all dc <'ree nigs in de nation." •'*S!K!5S!S?;^feWI^»B^te'-)WJ'a*«'''«'»'''«''i'«-'>™^ lU. W ^J . ^L ll ^LlJim i ■ai 134 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. " Who's the Russian turn-out ? " "That's Goodenough, the Exchange-street broker; and the man alongside is Tom Smith, the bonnet dealer. Smith loves his horse, but can't hear him cough when he has a cold. There comes O. W. Dim- ock with '.Tack Rositer,' the champion two-miler. Otis won't speed him in the street. Has brought him out for an airing. He's a trotter that can burn the track from the half to the wire. And there comes George Hosley with ' Tib Hinnian.' George won't speed with the brigade. The little mare is too sweet to take sut>. chances. Yes, she's a trotter. Got a record on tho ice at Ogdensburg of 2.22." "That gray is moving nicely. Who's the driver?" "That' 5 Judge Masten, with 'Recorder.' He has two or three good ones in his stable. Now, we have made the circuit. The brigatle are congregating at Virginia street for the down drive, and we'll soon see some fun." " Yes ; and here come three of them. Look out I " " They are moving well. The leader is Lyman B. Smith, with his trotter ' Fred,' and on his quarter is Harvey Peek, with his Arabian spike, and George Malcom, close up." " Malcom ! Is he the Cold Spring distiller ? " "Yes; and he's a trotter, too. Thinks more of them than of getting a wife." " And here they come ! Jehu ! See the snow fly." "Yes, yes; they are the boys to stir r.p the snow. "HSS4»S5fe»Sw'-iite< ;.«<- ' a e5>T?V;3j!a;s.,«WBJTsC iniiimwuiiii "!««■ SKETCHES. 135 The leader is W. W. Huff, the horse doctor, with the trotter 'Mayflower.' Next, and close up, is Edwin Hurlbut, with the ' Hurlbut Mare,' and right up with them is Peter Young driving the ' Patrick Pony,' now called 'Acorn'. Next to Peter is Lauren Burton, with ' Black Maria,' and lapped onto Burton is George Efner, driving ' Mary Blane ' — no better roadster any- where, and she can trot, too, as you observe." " Here comes another bunch o£ them." "Yes; the rest of the gang: Pop Horter, George Harris, Eli Boyington, William Lockwood, Fordyce Cowing, Forman Mount, Wooster Burton, and in the rear, his usual place, is George Metzger with ' Missouri '. And there comes John Steven- son with the six-horse sleigh and a full cargo of web-footers. There are Captains Fred Wheeler, Peter Smith, Bill Stone, Jim Snow, T. J. Titus, Bill Arthur, Fred Miller, Bob Wagstaff, Jim Beckwith, Jim Hath- away, Amasa Kingman, Luther Chamberlain and Harry Watts, all lake captains, and with, them are their two landsmen chums, Deacon Alvord and Gust. Tiffany. That party will paint the town before midnight." " And there's another six-horse turn-out." "Yes; that's the American Express Company's sleigh. Let us see who compose the party. There is W. G. Fargo, W. B. Peck, A. G. C. Cochrane, Jacob Dygert and Ham. Best, all of the company, and their guests are Judge Verplanck, Charles Ensign, George ? afe»t^»aB l i l t » M'Ui>l>fe * i i wm*i!wa ^ ^ ^ ■''m i rt t li i i i iiin iii ini 136 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. I f W. Holt, Charles E. Peck, Captain E. P. Dorr, A. S. Bemis, William Kasson, George W. Bull, George P. Stevenson and T. T, Bloomer, a good lot and a fine team. See how nicely Sherman curves the leaders up Niagara street." Now the shades of evening appeared. My compan- ion was silent and contemplative. He recuperated in good shape: " Say I How would a hot-scotch sit on our stomachs? " " Soothingly." " Well, where can we get 'em in good strength ? " " At McDougal's, on Seneca street." " Jerush ! That's a good ways. But hurry up, let the horse travel, I'm suffering." Soon after the animal was warmly blanketed on Seneca street — x x x — three of a kind. In the fall of 1859 a social association was organized in Buffalo, named the B. B. B. D., having a large membership, which held nightly meetings in an apart- ment of St. James Hall. C. C. Bristol was its presi- dent, and his onerous duties were shared by a galaxy of vice-presidents and secretaries. For the election of new members frequent executive sessions were held, when the caliber of the candidate would be volumin- ously discussed by the lawyers, doctors and steamboat captains, who were numerous in attendance. The initiation fee for a member, was a half bushel of pret- zels (in the twist) and a keg of beer — with a renewal payment at stated intervals. The qualification for a «fwr^^«^ *V w^- 1 K^^H«- o r j.^*iS.v«iS!Bi&*s»s^i«a«Bt«yaM!»i««iMfc -*■-<«-•'»•' :i„mi£^QMim^ J- I volmnin- iteambuat ce. The b1 of pret- 9, renewal tion for a SKETCHES. 137 desirable member was involved in his disjiosition to purchase supplies on festive occasions. The orator- ical capacity, ethics and lung power concentrated in the association, was to a degree stupendous, and the complex conundrums given to the chairman to solve, were handled by President Bristol with masterly art. The owl-like wisdom displayed by him on such occasions was convulsively amusing. The ai)plication of citizen Charles Norton for membership, caused animated discussion. Those opposed held that the applicant would be a greater consumer than a provider of viands ; on the other hand it was contendetl that his capacity to consume would be beneficial, inasmuch as a fresh supply for each ban- quet would be assured in lieu of stale goods. Then a member arose and stated that he knew the applicant well, that his disposition to purchase was profound — on credit — whereupon a magnanimous brewer arose and stated that he would accord a line of credit to the applicant, when, amid applause, Mr. Norton was unan- imously elected a member of the association. During the winter the local press made frequent appeals for aid for the needy poor, when the associa- tion resolved itself into a relief organization for needy families of the city, to solicit, collect and distribute donations from the citizens at large. Wagons trav- ersed the streets, attended by committees, who would receive donations of any character — food, clothing or furniture — and soon the commodious basement of St. « ii i 3A i ft jN feu''*iy ji ^< i B* ' '«^^ *^ *'^" '' '*^^ 138 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. ; (ft James Hall waM filled with commodities, and was the base of supplies for the distributing committees. On February 9, 1860, the association held a festival at St. James Hall, which was an immense success, the building and street being inadequate to hold the people who responded to the thousands of invitations distrib- uted by the Grand Secretary, Henry W. Faxon. The circular distributed by that versatile journalist com- prised, besides the invitation to attend, an invitation to donate, naming many varieties of articles which would be received, and the program for an exhibition from the stage, ending with a series of tableaux of local nature and interest. The following is the Faxon circular : BUFFALO ORANI) BENEVOLENT ASSOCIATION. To Sir — You are respectfully invited to attend the Annual Fes- tival of this Association, to be held at St. James Hall, on Thurs- day, February 9, 1860. Ad,mit the Bbarek. H. W. Faxon, Chairman Committee of Arrangements. Prkludk. Uentleraen and ladies desirous of contributing to the needy poor will find in the list herein enumerated abundant aggrava- tion for the vacation of their pockets, the decimation of their personal property in stocks, bonds and bank notes, and other calamities. But no gentleman, it is hoped, will be so carried away by the excitement of the occasion as to donate anything that may militate against the claims of his own widows and orphans, which should be paramount to all else. '*A f is"A^ ' Wt e it.''' 'a' ,<■.■!»! ■ ' a>i& ' " :ii!Bi'tt''i>gM,^^ ^ m i MHIHpVt SKETCHES. 139 Article* Peculiarly Acceptable. Victuals and Things. Charlotte Russe in packages, or Charlottes without ruse. Fresh Dutchwomen's hens' eggs. Ducks on foot, in the pond, or in the 'ii'i;iiriti'vr'ri.^'-'-"tf^i'^ .iijBS4ifci;fcji/a^U*W»*'^*'^^- ■ 140 MODERN ANTIQUITIES. LrxiHiEs. After the solids, as alwvc enumerated, the foUowiug liixurieN will be eapecially acceptable : Gold, in bullion, bushels, bags or half bushels. Silver, in limited quantitiei. Gold b 'cks not accepted. Hills of exchange, in large amounts— inted office seekers and Powers' Greek Slaves. Sugar plums and kisses, of the tu-lip variety. Sugar-cured hams and Palmer's marbles. Members of Assembly and silk mufflers, or anything else woven pliably by hand or loom. Liquors and cigars, by dray loads. Donors in this department have a wide field to oi)erate in, and it is hoped that they will commence early and persevere in the good work, as there are many 8p|)licant8 for relief who have a refined taste for these goo'fc:''j,:;^^?^c«!?a={!^*pr-»^vm^^ 142 MODKRN ANTrgilTIKS. BUFFALO. Wben- HHUiiii^ Hwords w^re in anger drew, VVluTc Ked Jacket paddled his canoe. And three Thayers hanged in open view — Was Old time HufTalo. Where savage life in the main prevailed, Wliere approM-h was hy Indian trail, Then rail trainn met the gliding sail — Was I'rogressive buffalo. Where (Ireat lialiea lay their tribute down. Where miles of handsome homes alxiund, And where its people own the town — Is I>omestic Buffalo. Where are rural parks and cosy drives, Where shaded lawns in beauty thrive, And liiassive structures i>oint the skies — Is Picturesque Buffalo. Where Niagara tlows a rapid stream, Where Nature's |)ower replaces steam. And bustling streets are smooth and clean — Is Escelsior Buffalo. Let zephyrs blow, high or low — " Put me off at Buffalo." g *.;iyt ) l ^ i « : \ ' ^ ^ '•' f'^it. W*- APPENDIX. From the New York Mimonary Mitgazine of Deetmber, 18iH). Fort NiAOAUA, OcIoUt 2«, 1800. Hkveueni) ani» Dear Bhothkh : Through the kind provi- dence of Uod, 1 arrived the 14th of tills month at the Seneca Castle, five miles above where the BuffalcM' tMnpties into Lake Erie. I waited on the chief sachem (lalled Farmer's Brother) with Cusoc, ray interpreter, and made known to him my businesM, and asked his favor, and for the chiefs of the nation to meet me in council. He informed me that he had heard of mo Iwfore, and that he would consult with the chiefs, and as smm as they could be ready he would let me know it. I then t(X)k my leave of him, leaving Cusoc to tarry in the village, and went to a village of white people, consisting of five or six families, at the mouth of the KuiTaloe. On Friday following Cusoc came and informed me that the chiefs would meet in council that afternoon and that they desired nie to attend. 1 proceeded to the Castle, and on arrival found the sachems and chiefs, with about one hundred Indians, aHsemble~\ • rt'rfM*l»''V*^'*' 144 APPKNDIX. From the Nnn York Mimonnry Mngntine of Dreemhfr, ISOO. Tin- folldwiiiff ntlilresH wbh iiia to nw by Keil Jacket, Kt'cond Kaclifiii of tlic ScnecaH, lU tlie Council IIoiisu, Seiu'ca ('antle, on th« mill (lay of Uctoltcr, 1M0(). KliKANAH H0LME8 " Fatlmr: W«' are happy that the (Jreat Spirit Lhh permitted UH to meet together lhi« day. We heard what you Hpoke to ua. We thunk the (Ireut Spirit for putting into the iiiindK of the good Hociety of friendMhip in New York to Hend you to viHit um. On your way to visit uh you called on our hrotherN, the ()iiei(lH«*, Muhheconiuku, and the Tuscarorus. We thank them for seuding thin g(M«l talk with wampum (holding the wampum up). We believe that you mean to do gtMxl to ua, that there is no cheat In your talk, or in the Hociety that «ent you to us. " He then spoke to his i)eople, charging them to make no noise and pay attention to what 1 ha<)k(> to UN. ol' till' g,tMn\ IhU iih. (>ii lif Oiifiilai, for Hending I up). Wn III) <'b«-at in ik(* no lloiHtt roceeded to eluded Ked ■ vou have !• n tLiH . ^w luade ans, and we lelieve what wlien Je8U8 i)))le did not put hi III to t S])irit huH your living, to get tlieir whites are such good '^SS?^^^^'*^, . APPENDIX. 145 people an yiiii and your wx'luty haeon idieateti by the white people who have taken our hunting-grounds. " Father : You do not come with map* under your arms that we have found deceit in. You come a father to adviae un for our giKHl, and not to cheat us out of our lands." He then t(x>k HtringH of wampum in Iiih hand and continued : "Father; You and your society know that when learning was given to the Indiana they liecaine MUiall in numliers, and Home natirms are extinct, and we do not know what lian become of them. Our brothers, the Mohawks and the Oueldaa, they were driven away from their lands. "Father; We think learning would do us no good. Wo are astonished that you white people who have the g(M>d book, the Bible, and can read it and can understand it. that they are so bad and do many wicked things. "Father: We (|>ointing to Farmer's Brother) cannot see that learning would do our people any good. We will It^iive it to those who come after us to judge for themselves. . learning was given to us, cheating would creep in aiiumg us and we would share the fate of onr brothers, the Mohawks and the Oneidas, and we would not know where to go." He then presented me with seven strings of wampum, saying : " We want you to give these to the good society that sent you here." We, the undersigned, were the interpreters of the above speech of Ked Jacket, and assisted in committing it to writing. We hereby certify that it is as near to the ideas and phraseology expressed by him as we can write it. Signed ; William Johnston. Nicholas Cusot;. BcPFALOE Crebk, October 25, 1800. ELKANAU HOLMES. \- • •'«fc<*Aid,.^^ ktNl •eember, 1800. :r. St day of Octo- of the Seneca uth of Buffaloe em. [ HOLMES. wing us to meet to say to you. to speak all we ir good society, rs wanted some ly grandsons to be would be of id ways of the adelphia I went '. saw my grand- in a tavern with yet. Then my ition was gone. ; bad ways, to and saw my ne to give him le country, our good society ve him learning his eyes on this hope they will s of wampum to V York that sent * j- Interpreters. lH holmes. SKETCHES OF ALASKA. m-'-'^.^k^W.M^i^s^B^'^' -v^wS^j(ff'^5;3(^5(7rtr.fe'''W^W*k»^.*«^^ ■« < 'X H U OS CHAPTER I. f- H U is c SCENERY. On the 2l8t day of July, 1885, I was commissioned, by President Grover Cleveland, Marshal of the United States in and for the District of Alaska. On the 8th of September following, together with the newly appointed Governor, Judge and District Attorney for the district, we embarked at Port Townsend, Wash., on the steamship Idaho, bound for Sitka, Alaska. After a run of three hours across the strait of San Juan del Fuca, the ship was entering ;i cosy bay of the large Island of Vancouver, British Columbia, where is picturesquely situated the pleasant city of Victoria. The town has a population of twelve thou- sand inhabitants, and is noted for its genial climate, fine scenery, and, at that period, for its American Consul. To an American, the aspect at Victoria is decidedly colonial, unless it be its hackmen, who, evi- dently, were educated at Niagara Falls. SKETCHES OF ALASKA. f-'''S^jk^r-^-r-^^^^!^Mti^'i^>^!»^ 150 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. Upon reaching the wharf, the ship was boarded by a fussy old man, inquiring if the Alaska officials were on board. When intercepting us, he said he was the United States Consul ; that he was 66 years old, with faculties unimpaired ; that his wife was the daughter of the lamented Col. Baker, of Oregon, and that in war times he was clerk of a United States Senate com- mittee ; that President Hayes appointed him to his present position, and that he came to greet and invite us to call at the consulate. For all of which we thanked him, of course. During our stay at Victoria he was persistently officious, assuming to advise us how to conduct ourselves in order to maintain the dig- nity of our official {wsition in due form. To our party he was a compound nuisance, and we were glad when rid of him. Josh Billings remarked that he hatl un- successfully struggletl with the conundrum : " At what time of life is a man the biggest fool ? " Had Josh been of our party he would have concluded that it was when consul at Victoria. On leaving Victoria the ship makes the passage of the Gulf of Georgia, a body of salt water dividing the Island of Vancouver from the main shore of Brit- ish Columbia. The passengers crowded the deck while the ship ran through narrow passages between ever- gi-een islets, made difficult and exciting by the rapid flowing of the tide. When passing the north point of Vancouver the open sea is encountered for a distance of thirty miles, when the ship enters the world's won- ' ^ ' smwmit.mmmiifM.uimmwmm 3arded by icials were ie was the } old, with daughter id that in mate c jiii- lini to his and invite which we t Victoria advise us in the dig- our party glad when \e had un- im : " At [?" Had uded that passage of p dividing •e of Brit- ieck while ireen ever- the rapid h point of a distance irld's won- 8CENERY. 151 derland — the inland passage up the north Pacific coast. The Alexandria Archipelago, so named by "Vancouver, comprises hundreds of islands, which, for eight hun- dred miles, fringe the coast of British Columbia and Alaska. Many of the islands and channels retain names given them by that intrepid navigator. Able descriptive writers have essayed to portray the grandeur of these waters, one of whom writes: "The stillness of air, land and water in the early morning made it seem like the dav.-n of creation on some new paradise." Another writer says: "I could scarcely realize that I was in the same world left behind me." Another relates an incident. " I wish I could remem- ber the beautiful words with which the Rev Dr. Tiffany likened it to the glorious portal of future life. I do remember a gentleman standing near me re- marked: 'I did not believe that God ever made anything sc beautiful as this.' To which I involun- tarily replietl, but not irreverently, ' I did not believe that he could.' " During my stay in Alaska much of my time was spent in traversing these channels, and my obsdrvation could not detect wherein the above descriptions were overdrawn. No pen can faithfully describe the gran- deur there presented. The observer meets with many surprises — new scenerj' constantly appearing as the steamer pursues its winding course among the islands. Many whales are seen projecting their sable backs above the surface of water, and at near approach dive 'smimmi&f;, ■«W_»<{%»^1©te^tfJ>(^Bto?flM»WM*»W((S*«t««*A«Mta»*««'.i^'r 152 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. into its depths, flaunting their tails in defiance as they longitudinally disappear from view. In ludicrous con- trast to the majesty of the scene, was a dude on the upper deck firing at a huge whale with No. 6 shot. Prominent among these passages is Glenville chan- nel. It is about forty miles long, a half-mile wide, and mostly straight as an arrow. Lined on either side by mountain walls, clothed with evergreen up to the timber line, thence is presenteerpendic- irk, " like in walls." evergreen coronet." uck with ideur. ! is a pro- uU opera- Jones, of iiiiJiU'jiiifciM'i'i'iWiiinIi^JiiiiiiiirTii r«^-ii xm m 164 8KETCHE8 OK ALA8KA. CHAPTER II. SITKA. At'^'EK a pleasant and interesting passage of seven days, the ship landed at Sitka, the Alaskan capital. The town is situated on the west shore of Baranoif Island, at the heatl of a deep bay, twenty miles from the outer capes. The' capes are about Rfteen miles apart, the shores of the bay approaching to within a distance of five miles at the head of the bay, where is locate4:WUJJiJj!J4.»;^t^.4Mxn'>^ "vr- SITKA. 165 waters and islets, its traders and their shops, its In- dians and their canoes, Sitka is much like the oW town of Mackinaw, at the head of Lake Huron. Inchuled in the iwpulation of Sitka, at that period, were about one hundred Russian Creoles, quiet and industrious yieople. Of Americans proper there were about a like number, including civil officials, naval officers and their families. The adjoining Indian vil- lage, or " ranche," as there calletl, contained about one thousand natives, men, women and children. At the front, facing the waters of the bay, is an open space of al»out three acres, called " The Green," appropriately so, as the grass thereon remains fresh and green throughout the year. Here ai-e mounted two Dahlgren guns, with a immber of ancient Russian cannon keei)- ing them company, altogether an imposing battery to rep«5l a fleet of canoes. The Government buildings face the Green, and, like the old cannon, are relics of the Russian nobles, who in days of yore held high carnival at Sitka. Out seaward, on the north shore of the bay, stands' majestic Mt. Edgecomb, a subdued volcano. When Captain Cook was there in 1796, it was in an angry mood, belching out smoke, cinders, fire and brimstone, but now it is an orderly and conservative volcano. There is a large mission establishment at Sitka, in- cluding an Industrial School, where little Indians are taught to read and write, the boys blacksmithing, shoe- making and carpenter work, and the girls to cook, sew ',/. « » u'»i i? S ii ui , , I — .£ 156 HKKTCIIE8 OK ALAAKA. and knit. The day following our arrival the newly arrived (iovernor and Marshal were invited to dine at the nuHsion. When standing in line awaiting intro- duction to the ladies there resident, the hostess ad vaneed and offereil her hand to the Marshal, saying: "You are very welcome to Sitka, Governor." Her greeting was cordially re<'iprocated, when she was advised of her mistaken identity, and assured that it was quite justiHed when contrasting our jiersonal appearance. The incident gave zest to our introductions, and has- teneAvs»^#^i^-^««g^«^^-.«aifii^"; SITKA. 167 smart rap on the heml with a chih, and then, aidwl by a hel|)«r, drag^etl hiH captive to the beach amid the aj)plause of Governor, Manthal, ttquaws, mngwunipH and liooiUunifi. In Sitka bear-skinH are a legal tender, and a house- hohl article in all well-regulated families. No sleeping room is complete without a hear-skin sjjread in i'nuit of the bed to receive your feet when in a bare state. Their market price was #5.00 each. Governor Swine- fowl paid an m'togenariaii squaw iffO.OO for one. When asked why the extra ilollar was demaudeil, she (iooUy replied, " Big Chief pay much." Sitka i« a naval station, and a vessel of war is sta- tioned there, with its company of marines (piartered on shore, where they beat and blow " taps," early and late, and drill on the Green. In Sitka there is an old Greek Church, with a tower containing a chime of six bells, which supply the town with music galore. There, also, is a colony of ravens, the identical "ominous birds of yore," occupying an adjacent mountain-side. They nuike daily visits, and hold dress parade on the Green. Their gyrations ai-e in fair imitation of the marines in their morning drill ; the birds coming immediately after. Seals and sea-lions sun themselves on the outer rocks, while the festive dolphin and porpoise perform their gymnastic exercises within the inner bay. The weather clerk flew his scien- tific kites from the top of the " Castle," the most pre- tentious structure made by human hands in all Alaska. *?,& 168 HKKTCHI'.N OK ALAHKA. THE UKKKK (MIt'KCII. Tlu' iiumt iiitfivHtinjj relit' of tli«' KiiHNian era in Alaska Ih the HuHHo-Cireek C'lmreli of St. Michael at Sitka. It iH (leHigned and eonHtruete«l in the form of a (ireiik cross, like similar edifices in the mother conn- try, and is the only one of similar constrnction on the western (H)ntinent. It is prominently sittuited, facing the sea at the head of the street running up from the landing. The front entrance is through the stpiarH hase of the tower, in the second story of which is the chime of bells. From the tower rises a tall, symmetri- cal spire, topjM'd by a » olden cross, comprising four distinct cro-yses. Back of the tower, surnu>unting the main ]>ortion of the structure, is a massive metal, covered oriental dome. From the cu])ola above the doiue, rises a spire, supporting a large golden ball, and above the ball is a com;>ound (treek cross nine feet high. Tlie clu.icb was erecte&, moiiy has .an le respectful it presents a en of Mar- , and editor kI sufficient liile en route ty of intro- l solitude of spiracy was 8 and other shipped to sleinent was itive are not , chiefly, in making mo- looking for ineford had to print and I his official . publication pital of six outfit — and er at Sitka, iciation had and editor, aT? " A'i?v%^^!^'i ^dSat??; THE ALASKAN, 161 whose reputation justified the belief that their contem- plated newsjjaper would be published in form, and edited, if need be, with audacity. With the aid of a typo discovered among the marines, the Governor set up the press in a vacant Russian hut, and in due iime appeared a fuU-fledged newspaper — The Alaskan. Mi.'.st new enterprises boast of a specialty, and that of The Alaskan was of being the most westerly, most northerly and most remote publication on the Ameri- can continent. Three of its four pages were fille.^ with solid matter, descriptive of Alaska, its climate, re- sources and needs in the way of congressional legisla- tion, written by the master hand of the Governor. The remaining columns were diversely illumined with local paragraphs contributed by a minor official, whose service in that direction was demanded by the manag- ing editor, notwithstanding his genius had never been thus directed — " which will make the newspaper inter- esting," said the Governor. Following are sample locals in the initial number of The Alaskan : To a Sitkaii the pleasures of life are blended with uncertainty as to the strugjrle between a monthly mail and the deep sea. All else is serene. A charitable lady placed on our desk a dish filled with cookies. Early in mr career we learned to admire the toothsome concrete, and the good lady has our thanks. Later— While momentarily absent, the managing editor clandestinely entered our sanctum and cooked them all. 162 SKETCHES OK ALASKA. The next mail will bring newspapers dated to November first, all antedating tbe elections now derided. A cold-potato diet is the reading of campaign literature after election is past. But we antipodes must endure the affliction as we do our old debts— with Cliristian resignation. A custom of Alasiia Indians, incident to their superstition, is that of not removing their dead out the doorway of a house, but through the smokehole in the roof, in order, perhaps, to make a scoojt on the evil spirit. Calls for the service of this tenderfoot as pall-bearer on such occanions are declined in advance. The spectacle of we, us, leading a funeral procession down the roof of a house must ever be lost to science. It is recorded that this is the season of the greatest rainfall at Sitlia. But the present feature is alternate rain and sunshine, and unless one of the contestants weakens, there will be a dead heat for first money. Such is the force of habit, even on a strong mind. Though we sold our trotter before starting for Alaska, our i)en, unless under a strong ])ull, will break and perpetrate a turf item. However, this being a weather item, the digression may escape the scrutiny of the managing editor, and as well as any answer his call for copy. If not, why not? Such coinniodity did the Governor of Alaska con- sider *' made a newspaper interesting." A favorite prerogative of Alaska's executive is to coddle the Indians, to preside at their pow-wows and referee their domestic troubles, which duties Governor Swineford discharged with infinite zest. A native of Mormon proclivities, whose dual wives had prosecuted a scratch-fight, appeared with the combatants before the executive tribunal to have the matter adjudicated. Whereupon the Governor promulgated a code of di- .:;«S%^'i^>.4^s! THE GOVERNOR. 163 ember first, tato diet is it. But we iebts — with erstition, is I bouse, but I, to lualte a I tenderfoot ance. The vn tlie roof t rainfall at I sunshine, II be a dead on a strong tor Alaska, perpetrate a i digression (1 as well as iaska coii- itive is to •wows and Governor L native of prosecuted nts before Ijudicated. ode of di- vorce — arbitrarily separated the untutored native from his best-looking wife. The decree was respected for a time, but finally the women became reconciled and again the trio aj)peared at court, praying that the divorced wife be restored to her former marital rela- tions. The court explained how this "couldn't be done," and lectured tho apjilicants on the enormity of a good Indian having two wives. And then, with Solomonic wisdom, decided that the husband could choose between the two which he would take for his wife, and that must settle the matter for all time. That was a " decision as was a decision," one with decided effect, creating a lively conflict between the women, from which the court made good escape, taking refuge in a convenient billiard saloon. The case went over the term. On another occasion the Governor displayed wise judicial function. A vagabond Indian doctor had im- posed his legerdemain upon an invalid sexagenarian squaw, until his fees had exacted her last blanket. The patient, not convalescent, applied to the executive for redress. The complainant was attended by two stalwart nativi who were by the court invested with official authority — tying a - 'bbon, taken from a bunch of cigars, around the wrist . each — and ordering them to arrest and bring the offender into court forthwith. The royal insignia of an Indian doctor is a supei-fluity of hair, in the manner of a foot-ball lunatic, the mass- \ ■^S.^^fl' -vrf- '--^ 164 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. ive quantity of which supplies his healing power, and by which he set much store. With the offender, and alio it a dozen blankets in evidence, the court opened, and after a decree restoring the blankets to their pro, "r owner, practical punishment was inflicted upon the culprit, the court barber shaving his head as hair- less as a billiard ball. After the shave a coat of red paint was applied to his scalp, after which the court kicked him out of his office, as fine a looking fellow as ever broke open a smoke-house. On the arrival of the civil officials in Alaska, the commander of the naval vessel stationed there denied social recognition to the plebian representatives of the Government, removing his vessel to Juneau in con- tempt of their presence at Sitka, a proceeding privately condemned by other officers of the ship. In his re- port to the department, the lieutenant-commander, as reported in the Army and Navy Journal^ gave as the reason of such removal : " In order to secure a better harbor during an anticipated equinoctial storm," a reason absurd, owing to the fact that Sitka harbor is exceptionally secure, while that of Juneau is to a degi-ee insecure. In recognition of the courteous treatment accorded them by the naval officer, writers on The Alaskan kept him stiiTcd up with compliments in the way of pointed paragraphs pertinent to his (juibbling. Speci- mens thereof are here appended : -■i«if>t,>Mfl KMMWiWlfcBUi 5 power, and )ffender, and lourt opened, ets to their iflieted upon head as hair- , coat of red ah the court oking fellow Alaska, the there denied atives of the leau in con- ing privately In his re- inmander, as , gave as the cure a better il storm," a ka harbor is eau is to a ent accorded ^he Alaskan 1 the way of ling. Speci- THE ALASKAN. 165 Fears are entertained for the safetj- of the e(|uinoctial storm, now overdue. The arrival of the Army and Navy Journal is anxiously awaited. It may have tidings from it. Hoop-e-la ! The mail steamer is due ! There's going to be a wedfiiiifr, and the gunboat is safe at Juneau ! Arise and sing I " An anchorage I've found, Where's good holding grf)und, To dwell I'm determined At this mining town." Such was The Alaskan in 1885-86. A copy of the initial number was sent to all prominent journals in the country, and the complimentary notices it received were greater in number and emphasis than ever before accorded to a country newspaper — the New York Herald devoting a column to quotations therefrom. ~^^^r^W^fl''V.1^^W^"-t 166 .SKETCHES OK ALASKA. CHAPTER III. GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. The historic structures at Sitka, known as the Gov- ernment Buihlings, consisted of Baranoff Castle, recently destroyed by fire, the Barracks, so called by the Russians, and the Customs House. These build- ings are massive, and of much solidity in their con- struction. The outer walls and hall partitions are of tind)er8 twenty-four inches scjuare throughout, other timbers, joists and posts are twelve inches square. When laid, each wall timber had its top hollowed to receive the rounded bottom of its rider. Before re- ceiving its rider, each timber was secured in its place by copper bolts, one and one-half inches in diameter, driven through into the second lower one. These buildings were intended to be earthquake-proof, their predecessors having been tumbled down by such dis- turbances in 1827. The Barracks in size is eighty by ninety feet on the ground, and three stories high, each story divided by a hall ten feet in width. The outer walls are covered with siding painted a dingy yellow. This building was the military headquarters of the Russians, but Uncle Sam has accorded to it a more peaceable existence. The lower story is the territorial prison. In the sec- ond story are the offices of the civil officials and their GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS. 167 as the Gov- loff Castle, o called by rhese build- » their con- tions are of hout, other hes square, hollowed to Before re- in its place n diameter, »ne. These proof, their y such dis- feet on the ivided by a ire covered uilding was but Uncle 5 existen'je. In the sec- 9 and their sleeping apartments, rent free. The upper story is devoted to the court rooms of the United States District Court. The reason these buildings were bolted with copper, when iron would have answered as well, was explained by an old resident of Sitka. When the Russians were trading with the Sandwich Islands from Sitka, there was a ship-yai'd at the latter place where many vessels were built. When the buildings were commenced, the work was delayed by the non-arrival of the vessel from Russia having on board the iron for the new buildings. Baranoff, learnl..^- that the vessel had been wrecked, ordered work on the buildings to pro- ceed, using a quantity of copper bolts then on hand at the ship-yard. Some of the timbers next to the ground have decayed, vhere the copper bolts are plainly visible. Like the island on which it stood, the Castle took its name from the Russian Governor Baranoff, who was educated a tyrant in the Siberian school of horrors, and his reign at Sitka attested the high grade of that institution. There he ruled "with a tyranny that began with the knont, and ended with the axe." Prior to the advent of Baranoff, two attempts to found a settlement on the island were made by the Russians under protection of the Archangel Gabriel, but in both cases, the protection failed to protect the colony from massacre by the natives. 3*rWS5S!EWi5!S3SS**WWW*'5 168 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. In 1801 Baranoff came, bringing guns and gun- powder, to which t)ie Indians paid more deference than to the Muscovite religion. Baranoff rebuilt and forti- fied the town. A line of stockade and two block- houses of his fortification are still in evidence at Sitka. The famous Baranolf Castle, recently burned, was con- structed similar to the Barracks, in size 75 by 125, with two stories and dome. It was situated on a rocky eminence, rising sixty feet perpendicular from the level, having a top surface of about one-fourth of an acre in extent. Baranoff fortified the elevation with batteries of cannon — the historic guns being still at Sitka — the property of Uncle Sam. An interesting sketch of history concerning the Castle, is given by Mrs. General Collis, of which the following is an extract : " It will be difficult to work the imagination up to the point of believing that this now desolate old place was once the home of nobility — the scene of festivities, given with imperial sanction and ceremony, but such is the fact. Here princes and ])rincesses of the blood royal have eaten their caviare, quaffed their vodhka, and measured a minuet, surrounded by a court, fresh from the palaces of Moscow and St. Petersburg It was in this very house that Lady Franklin spent several weeks of her aged life in the hope that she might find some trace — dead or alive— of her ad- venturous husband, Sir John. It was here that Secretary Seward resided for a time, when on his trip to see with his own eyes the vast territory peacefully acquired for his country, by the sagacity of himself and Senator Sumner, at a cost of two cents per acre." Until recently, the martial force of Alaska was wholly naval. One vessel is stationed at Sitka, where NATIVE INDIANS. 169 s and guii- erence than It and forti- two block- ce at Sitka, id, was con- rS by 126, on a rocky m the level, an acre in :h batteries Sitka — the erning the which the I the point of the home of rial sanction id princesses heir vodhlca, sh from the s very house 1 life in the — of her ad- stary Seward »wn eyes the the sagacity ts per acre." laska was tka, where she is idle nine months of the year. In summer a tour of the archipelago is usually made. A naval store- house is established at Sitka, and other naval vessels are frequent in the harbor. Some of the officers have their families at Sitka, housed on shore, their assign- ment to that station meaning three years absence from a distant home. They are pleasant and joyous people, who, together with the civil officials and their families, constitute a social community cemented with a sym- pathy born of nmtual deprivation of the society of relatives and friends while resident on that distant evergreen shore. Life at Sitka is usually agreeable, the climate is genial, the surroundings novel and picturesque, living facilities are good, and with more frequent communication with the iniside world, Sitka would be far from an undesirable place for residence. NATIVE INDIANS. Adjoining the town of Sitka on the north is the Indian Ranch, containing about seven or eight hun- dred swarthy natives. The Indians of Southeastern Alaska are a race distinct from those of the Western tribes in America. Their race name is Klingets. Their outward characteristic are coarse hair, black and straight, large black eyes, thick lips and flat faces; generally of medium stature, and well-devel- oped chests, arms and shoulders, while their lower ■ *.t-i«rs^KJ^itie- Taa^**e»««^.*ii*;wK-i'' v jiii -. 170 SKETCH KB OK ALASKA. liinl)H are Hhriiiikcn and crooked. Miioh of their life is spent in their canoes, 8<|nHtting on their feet and ankles for a seat, hence their defoniiity, while their constant pa«ldling deveh)|)s their breast, arniH and shoulders. They have no tril)al relations, hut flock in families, so called, on separate islands, which they claim as their exclusive domain. The memhers of each family, tiie Sitkans for instance, assume bh)od relationship ; all ant parents uncles, cousins and aunts, and they do not intermarry. When a man wants a wif<; he goes to another island and buys one, paying therefor an agreed nund)er of blankets, which, with them, are a legal tender to the amount of two silver dollars. If the suitor is rejected, his lacerated affec- tions are soo I to a normal state by a payment of blanket > to him. Ilis enterprise fails not ol reward — either a wife or a bundle of blankets. When com- jwlled to take gold coin in trade, they go directly to a trader and get it changed to silver. They detect spuri- ous silver readily, but are suspicions of gold, nui-sing a legend that long ago a trading ves.sel visited the islands and imposed u)>on their ancestors a quantity of spurious gold coin. Unlike other Indians, the men perform the drudgery. The women are the bosses and untie the 'iirse-strings. Nothing is bought or sold without their consent. With them this system has the best results, as it undoubt- edly would have in many civilized communities. They "II NATIVE INDIANS. 171 of their life eir feet and while their , arms and hut floik in whieh tiiey nienihers of Hinne blood i and aunts, lan wants a one, paying whieh, with two silver rated affec- |)ayment of f reward — iVhen coin- ireetly to a eteet spuri- Id, nursing visited the quantity of ! drudgery, pse-strings. snt. With ; undoubt- ies. They are sharp traders, getting more for what they sell and paying less for wh.. they buy, whisky excepted, than any other jjeople 1 ever heard of. Put a score or iiH.re of them into Chatham street an. I within a few years they would own the street. The Klingets litain their subsistence mostly from the sea. They eat the flesh of animals but sparingly. All kinds of fish and other sea life are their main food sui)plies. They have two annual festivals — the Hulmon and the berry f.stiwils. These are celebrateil by a procession of -anoes ed with images of the raven, fish, bear and other animal.^. The salmon festival is for the lib- eral run of salmon, and th. berry festival for the abundant yield of wild berries the season brought forth. A long procession of canoes filled with dusky natives, who paddle about the harbor singing a wild refrain the live-long day, with a feast and carousal at night, are the salmon and berry festivals at Sitka. Among the wild berries of Alaska, the salmon berry, so called irom its vermilion color, like the meat of a salmon, is pre-eminent. Conical in shape, and, when ripe, tlu' size of a large horse-chestnut, they are in appearance inviting and of delicious flavor. When leaving the country a keen regret was the parting with the salmon berry if ■•ii .?»U- '-K> ^^w^V 172 HKETCHEH OK AI.ANKA. NATIVK HANUIWOKK. Tlie cnnovH piuldlud over AlaHkan watern are coin- plute (lug-outH, fruiii what must have heen, in Hoiue «'aHeH, iiionarehH of the f(»i'eHt. Their uhellH range from one to three incheH in thickneHH, and in length they range from nine to seventy feet, ami with )>ro])ortionate wiilth and depth. A war eanoe at Sitka in sixty feet in length, mx feet in width, and twenty-eight inchcH deep, with a ))rojeanoeH 1 a eowboy uch atten- L'ing, garn- ish for the are num- ing, weird manufac- ed with a id on the bracelets tes — is of r carving is tiHiuilly an old jack-knife, ground to a point. They carve iu»ige« of aninials and birds, from which is as- sumed their respective families sprung— the bear, the raven, and so on. Sculptured totem p«»les, some of which are thirty feet high, stand in their ranches, to wl>ich they pay homage. They daub images on theii ( anocs, patldles an«l masks with a brush nmde of jroat hair, and obtain (fohirs from the juices of roots. The basket work of the women is superior to a great degree, some of which is so firmly constructed as to hold water. Their horn spoons are a superior article. They take the horn of the mountain goat, saw it lengthwise, and soak in hot water until pliable, then press on a wooden model into si)oon shape, and then the handles are carved with surprising excellence. With the sjwons they feast out of bowls made of horn or wood, elaborately carved. The C'hilkat blankets, made by the family of that name in former times, bnt now a lost art, i)robably, are the most unique article of savage manufacture. They are woven from the long hair of the mountain sheep and goat, and are used for decoration when dancing and mascpierading. They are in color a combination of black, white, blue and yellow, and figured emblematical of family genealogy and her- aldry. They are held as heirlooms by the more opu- lent families, and at times are sold to tourists for from one hundred to three hundred dollars each, according to their condition and quality of make. ■o*W*e-5«.»i^'W-.«3«lf«R«PfctBi'-«r.*fvA^*>*'«-«»*' -»-»■> 174 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. SUPERSTITIONS. When an Alaska Indian dies in a house, his body is not taken out through the doorway, but out the smoke- hole in the roof. This in order — to borr(^w a journal- istic phrase — to make a scoop on the evil ipirit. When charged with witchcraft, they cremate the body of the dead. I witnessed the ceremonies on such an occasion at Sitka. First, 1 insjiected the crematory. It was a crib structure of green balsam logs, in size about six feet long, two feet wide and five feet deep, half filled with dry kindlings, saturated with coal oil. AVhen entering the house I saw the corpse sitting bolt upright in a corner, on the floor, ?iid from feet to armpits sewed up in a dirty blanket, leaving head, shoulders and arms bare. It was a withered, dried-up old man, weighing about seventy pounds. He looked like a witch, and I half believe he had been one — at least I justified the supposition. A mourner raised the body and j)oked it through the smoke-hole, and another, on the roof, seized it and carried it down and dumped it into the crib. With the deceased was deposited his personal property, consisting of an ancient shot-gun, a butcher knife, a couple of blankets, and sundry trinkets. Then the crib was filled up and covered with dry wood, when more coal oil was poured on and the thing set on fire. Then a dozen of the mourners joined hands and circled aiOi<;?d the burning pile, howling doleful lamentations, joined by a chorus j ' ii5-LHL'.g.s."M:j - i ; e, his body is ut the sinoke- (.w a journal- pirit. When ! body of the ti an occasion ory. It was ize about six p, half filled oil. When sitting bolt 'rom feet to aving head, •ed, dried-up He looked een one — at urner raised ke-hole, and ed it down ic deceased sting of an jf blankets, lUed up and was poured )zen of the the burning by a chorus COMPENSATION. 175 of wolf dogs in concert, until the fire burned out. Then they put the roasted carcass into a wooden box about three feet square, having a gable roof, placing it with a congregation of the like in their cemetery, above ground. They looked like a village of dog-houses. The original traders to the Pacific coast came in ships from Boston, hence all wliites are called "Bos- ton men" by the natives. When a mining company imported Mexican burros for packing to the mine, in deference to their elongated ears the natives called them " Boston rabbits." COMPENSATION. When employed by or in company of whites, an Indian is killed or injured, his family demand compen- sation therefor, either in money or blankets. At Sitka an Indian in jail stabbed himself to death with a pair of pointed scissors, snatched from a fellow-prisoner, who was mending his clothing. A hundred or more Indians then proceeded to the Marshal's office and demanded three hundred blankets for the death of their brother. A miner employed a native to pack some drills to his claim, and before starting gave him a drink of whisky from a bottle taken from a cupboard. The Indian's squaw entered the door in time to see the bottle replaced, and she subsequently returned, broke into the cabin, and drank two bottles of the miner's ^ '>WWI«Al»»FP!?»rt«SW»W!»sa«^ -. . ■■M*JwaM*«»v ■' SKETCHES OF ALASKA. 176 whisky. The next day she was found dead on the floor of the cabin. Her family demanded one hundred blankets of the miner, which he paid, in order to exempt himself from a parlous state. The barbarous demand of an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth is their creed, and, unless pacified, someone may be found dead— a life taken in compensation ; be he guilty or mnocent, there is no distinction in that respect. No sense of gratitude abides with these natives, other than a seeming acknowledgment of the benefi- cence of the Great Spirit, evinced in their salmon and berry festivals. A fishing schooner was scudding before a furious gale of wind out at sea, when two Indians in a canoe were espied, who had been blown off the coast. The Indians were rescued, but owing to the severity of the tempest their canoe was lost. The master of the schooner landed the rescued men at their village, where a demand for pay for the lost canoe was made, joined by the men whose lives he had saved. Apparently a heart is not included in their anatomy, but in lieu thereof they have a gizzard. When aged sixteen the children in the Industrial School usually return to the ranches, but exist differ- ently. They eat off tables and crockery, use knives and forks, sit on chairs, wear store clothes, play iK>ker, and whip their wives, like other half-civilized people. um»iiam»»n k.j ■ ubw 176 dead on the one hundred in order to le barbarous or a tooth is lay be found he guilty or ipect. ese natives, the benefi- salmon and 18 scudding ., when two been blown but owing )e was lost, ued men at or the lost lives he had ed in their zzard. Industrial exist differ- use knives play jwker, i people. JUNEAU. CHAPTER IV. JUNEAU. 177 The American-built town of Alaska is Juneau, named for Joseph Juneau, a descendant of the Mack- inaw, Green Bay and Milwaukee family of that name, who, in 1880, first discovered its adjacent gold deposits. The town is situated on Gasteneau Channel, a passage of deep salt water nearly a mile wide, dividing Douglas Island from the main shore. By the channels among and around islands Juneau is about one hundred and eighty miles northeast of Sitka. Together with Doug- las City and the extensive gold mine on the island opposite — virtually one comnnmity — there now is a population of about five thousand. The town is located at the mouth of Gold Creek, a small stream tumbling down a gorge between mountains 3,000 feet high, which wail the town on three sides, whci-e it is picturesquely nestled. Following up a winding and ascending gulch for three miles, you come to Silver Bow Basin, a large area encircled by mountain-tops. Here are the famous placer diggings, where many thou- sarfds of dollars of gold-dust and nuggf ts have been gathered by the sturdy miners who founded and built up Juneau. The miners and tratlers of .Juneau are of the better class of American pioneers, who in early manhood left Si .a tedfiF*^ 178 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. their homes to inarch over the plains and nionntains to the Pacific Slope, and there grew up with the sage- brush, and since have prospected the gravel beds of the mountain streams from Mexico to Alaska, men whose general characterisMcs are generosity, fidelity and honor, and who live in full confidence of the integrity of each otJ-.er. Should one prove unfaithful, his case is duly considered, and, when adjudged guilty, he is warned to leave the country, and, for prudential reasons, such warnings are promptly obeyed. CLIMATE AND VEGETATION. The climate of Alaska is as varied as that of the country extejuling from Hudson Bay to the (lulf of Mexico. The Pacific Coast and the Aleutian Islands receive the warm breath of the Japan current, provi- ding those portions with a winter climate of the temper- ature of the States of Maryland and Tennessee. The island of Attou, an American, lying in the waters of the Elastern Hemisphere, has a climate as genial as that of Italy. The annual rain-fall on Southern Alaska is eighty inches, about double that of the Middle States. Usually it is a continuous drizzle for a week or more, facetiously called a dry rain, as clothes hung u..^.er a shed will dry during a down-pour. Shoes do not mould nor clothing become musty in the dampest weather. Up north, i)i the valley of the Yukon, where frost pen- etrates the earth twenty feet, the mercury often marks ninety degrees in July and August. About seventy- FISHES, FURS, FORESTS, ETC. 179 oiintaius to li the sage- ^el beds t)f laska, men ty, fidelity nee of the unfaithful, Iged guilty, prudential ;hat of the be (Julf of tan Islands rent, provi- the teniper- ssee. The ! waters of I genial as ern Alaska Idle States, k or more, tig u..1er a not mould t weather, i frost pen- Pten marks it seventy- two is as high as I experienced while four years in Alaska, and never at zero. Alaska is not a grain country. The cereals run to stalks, and do not head and ripen — too much rain and not sufficient sunshine. (larden truck grows luxuri- antly and yields abundantly. Many species of wild berries ripen in great abundance. FISHES, FURS, FORESTS AND ANIMALS. Practically, to an unlimited extent, food fishes abound in Alaskan waters. Cod, salmon, mackerel, halibut and herring, the chief fishes of commerce, are more abundant than in other waters of the globe. When aboard ship, and passing out of a narrow en- trance to a bay, where emptied a mountain stream, the captain told me to look over forward and see the fish. The ship was plowing through a run of salmon, east- ing them out of the water from either side ( ' the stem. So eager were the salmon to reach fresh water, that the narrow entrance to the bay was massed with fish. In Alaska furs are a staple commodity. The value of the pelts annually secured is counted by millions. Sea and land otter, seal and sea-lion, sable-martin, beaver, and the several species of fox, are the most valuable. The most precious of furs is the sea-otter, and Alaskan waters supply the majority of pelts marketed. For a prime one its captor receives #150, and Hussian nobility are his best customers. Next in value are the black, blue, white and silver fox, the if ■ 3' Ifl IK I 180 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. ipost valuable bringing from thirty to one hundred dollars for green pelts. A group of islands, called Fox Islands, abound with foxes. An enterprising hunter leased a smaller one from Uncle Sara, and has it stocked with these rare animals, which he feeds and domesticates. Only the males are killed. A fortune awaits the foxy genius who has established a fox-farm under the shadow of the Arctic Circle. Alaska is the sportsman's paradise. Myriads of wild fowl darken the waters of channels, inlets, bays and rivers. ^,lou!i- . tain-sides are alive with grouse. The black and brown bear are plentiful —the white species adheres to the frozen region. The brown and black bear are expert fishermen. When salmon invest the mountain streams bruin wades in, and with his paw deftly lands them, and then his bearship banquets on fresh salmon. le hundred biids, called interprising in, and has e feeds and A fortune a fox-farm laska is the )wl darken jrs. ^,loi;:i- , and brown eres to the are expert lin streams ands them, aion. MINES AND MINERALS. CHAPTER V. MINES AND MINERALS. 181 Almost every known mineral is found in Alaska. Gold, silver, copper, mica, iron, coal, marble and slate are most common. Coal is abundant, cropping out in many sections. At Cook's Inlet the crew of the U. S. Cutter Corwin took from a bank facing the water seventy tons of cannel coal to the vessel in small boats within eighteen hours. Their mining tools were crowbars. The engineer of the cutter stated that the coal was high grade for steam purposes. On Douglas Island is the largest producing gold mine and plant in the world — an enlarged out-cropping, 2,000 feet long, 600 feet wide and of unknown depth ; an elevated ridge of free milling decomposed quartz, with the largest stamp-mill in the world at its base. The mill has forty-eight 1) tteries, with five head of stamps to each battery — in all 240 stamps — all under one roof, all pounding at once, and all operated by single power. The mineral is reduced to gold l)ullion at a cost of less than one dollar per ton of rock. The mill crushes 600 tons of rock each twenty-four hours. The rock averages four dollars per ton, gold. The mine and mill are situated within 200 yards of deep- water navigation to all seaports. In Alaska there are I'.^msJMfW'f^ ' U tipii l 182 SKETCHES OF ALASKA. other proilncing mines, but none, as yet, as extensive as the wonderful mine on Douglas Tsland Placer mining is extensively prosecuted on the Yu- kon and its branches and in the vicinity of Juneau. The annual increase of production is large. This often characterized barren and frozen region is the only unorganized territory Uncle Sam ever possessed that paid a net revenue. Its original cost has been returned to the treasury by the seal fisheries alone. The annual output of its mines and fisheries for the past three years has been *6,000,000. So says the Interior Department. The greater development to come, probably, will not be over-estimated. YUKON RIVEK. The majestic Yukon rises somewhere in the unex- plored region of British America, entering Alaska near the fifty-ninth parallel, thence it courses north- westerly to the Arctic Circle ; thence southwesterly to the Behring Sea. Steamboats drawing four feet of water ascend the river 2,000 miles from its mouth. Some of its numerous branches are alike navigable for 300 miles. When flowing southwest in Alaska its usual width is about five miles, interspersed with numerous islands. It empties into the sea through four separate channels, having a distance of 100 miles across its mouths and deltas. In the interior at times it widens to twenty miles, forming a chain of lakes II YUKON RIVER. 188 8 extensive 311 the Yu- of Juneau, irge. This gion is the r possessed t has been sries alone, 'ies for the \o says the iopment to the unex- ng Alaska rses north- westerly to >ur feet of its mouth, .vigable for Alaska its ersed with ja through f 100 miles or at times in of lakes navigable throughout their area. The mountain por- tions of the Yukon and its branches abound in pre- cious metals, and that remote region is at the present writing the objective point of many adventurous spirits seeking the yellow metal. "The above account of the Yukon was written in 1889, and now, that gold in abundant quantities has been found in the region, the world will soon know more of that distant and resourceful country. When at Juneau in October, 1886, a party of thirty miners arrived there fresh from the Yukon country, coming out over the Chilcoot trail, headed by the brothers Dinsmore, of California. They went in by the same route the pi-evious month of March. At the time, a monthly steamer was the only conveyance out of Alaska to civilization, and which the miners missed by three days. Then they went to the supply store of W. F. Reed, a well-known old miner, to deposit their gold, which, in deer-skin bags, they unrolled from their packs of blankets. Reed removed from his safe books and shelves and then proceeded to stow therein the weighty little sacks, in the manner of placing brick in a cart. When all were stowed the door refused to close suffi- cient to be locked, but Reed vigoi-ously flung his num- ber eleven boot against the bags for a time, and finally succeeded in locking the safe door. The party had about #33,000, obtained from the gravel beds of Lewis River, a branch of the Yukon. »w^*.W»T««-^iVa^.-.*'«*i»ft**«t««K»i*Pt-X'*'i.- 184 8KKTCIIKS <»K AI,At*KA. VOLCANOES ANI> (JLACIEUH. In 1887 naval officers reported officially that there were then seven active volcanoes on the Aleutian Islands. Recent reports represent a more general awakening of these subterranean fires, there now being more tlian twenty of heretofore extinct craters, belch- ing out tire and cinders. The show of such force now in action in Alaska is the greatest known to the conti- nent. IJogaslow, and an adjacent island, recently separated by two miles of deep water, are now one island. The newly api)earing teirajirma is as smooth and blaok as if just from a molten state. Of the majestic scenery of Alaska, these burning mountains are an important portion. Our pen is unable to fully describe the grandeur of the huge glaciers that come down to the sea from the mountains of Alaska. Prof. John Muir, the explorer of the glacier named for him, gives its face dimensions thus : The front is about three miles wide. The height of the wall of ice is about three liundred feet, but soundings show that seven hundred feet of the glacier is under water, while still a third portion is buried in moraine material. Were the water and rocky detnttis away, a wall of solid ice would be presented more than one thousand feet high. Five miles back of its face the ice is ten miles wide. This one glacier contains more ice than the 1,100 glaciers of the Alps combined. When considered that this world of ice is crowded down to the sea between mountain walls forty feet per VOLCANOK8 AND GLACIEK8. 186 that there ! Aleutian re general now being ters, belch- force now the conti- !, recently I now one m smooth , Of the mountains pandeur of from the e explorer [imensions of the wall r that seven itill a third iraiid rocky more than 9 the ice is ui the 1,100 crowded Y feet per day. human imagination may estimate the volume of rumble and roar attendant upon its tumble from a height into the sea. Imagine a huge iceberg of the bulk of the Ellicott Square building — many are larger — tumbling from a height into deep water. When on sliip-board, anchored two miles away, on such an occasion, the first to come is a tremendous crash, fol- lowed, as Prof. Muir faithfully describes, by a deepi deliberate, long drawn out, thundering roar. Then rolling comes a monster wave, causing the ship to roll as if struggling with the like in an ocean tempest. The Muir glacier (monies down to the sea from a range of lofty mountains, where stand in line the three majesties, Mt. Crillon, Mt. Fairweather and Mt. La Perouse, the lowest of wliich penetrates 15,000 feet skywaril. Taku glacier, occasionally witnessed by tourists, is as high as the Muir, V)ut not more than a mile wide. In the sunlight, when from its face is reflected the varied and radiant colors of the rainbow, it is mag- nificently beautiful to behold. The mammoth glacier that comes down to the sea from Mount St. Elias, presents on its front a wall of blue-tinged ice four hundred feet high and thirty miles wide. The ice falling from this monster into the sea would duplicate the glaciers of Switzerland each month in the year. The thundering sounds made by icebergs, falling daily from this huge glacier, would drown the roars of Niagara made in a thousand years. irfU-*WBW«« the rugged 'ul glaciers. Bsty of Mt. skan moun- ing natural left behind t European tnd once a Bet ye ! t ye. n — shave Iver, iris, too ! " VOLCANOES AND GLACIERS. 187 During the past decade Alaskan scenery has been witnessed by naturalists from many lands, all of whom proclaim wonder and astonishment at its magnificent grandeur. Through the summer months twilight re- mains to the exclusion of darkness, when the enchanted traveler, foregoing the pleasures of sleep, remains on the deck of the ship, there to inhale the blended fra- grance of air, land and water, to look upoii the ever- green isles and islets as the passing ship glides o'er the surface of the placid waters, to gaze upon the recurring wonders of Nature, to view the wild emotions and the flowing of the tide. Such is Alaska — our Land of the Midnight Sun ! .J'^-.sni.v 'r-i ■ .'«'S»»•«•»lil^*Afe(7^^■#?•»*1«'»***.•^' 188 THE FORESTER. THE FORESTER. LINKS SlGGEBTEl) IIV A VISIT TO A LONELY DWELLER IN THE KOHERT OF ALASKA. A sojourn in Alaska, without a compeer, Hunting and trapping and chasing the deer ; Sheltered with cojnfort and plenty in store, In a snug little cabin with ground for its Hwr. On a bed of dry leaves my limbs find repose. Proudly I wear my forest-made clothes ; A wealth of warm furs— jielts of my store Abound in the cabin with ground for its floor. Smoke from my wigwam curls high ia the air, A pot of rich venison is steaming in there ; The latch-string hangs outside on the door Of the neat little cabin with ground for its floor. Welcome, ye nim rods— when the river you ford Come to my shelter and feast at my board ; Three-legged stools stand " forninst" the door, In the snug little cabin with ground for its floor. Ye adorers of Nature, ye praising divines. Com.- to the forest where your goddess reclines ; Here gaze upon scenes of o-randeur in store. Akin to that awaiting on the evergreen shore. Alaska ! imperial of mountain, glacier and braes. All peerless in grandeur creation displays ; A land rescued from imperious reign, A grand accession to Freedom's domain. REUNION. 189 )WEI,LER nor. 'ord <)or. It's ; aes, REUNION. Come, )ld fi:ends, join in a social day, Father Time presses onward — we are old and gray ; In reunion we'll recall incidents of yore. Revive old tales and rhymes — have greetings galore. The r'jcitations of youth — we'll repeat them anew, As " fond recollection presents them to view " ; We'll confirm early readings memory hath in store. From " (juaint and curious volumes of forgotton lore." We'll open in meetly form with " Holy Willie's Prayer," Then Ichabod will Crane his neck to " Tam O'Shanter's mare " ; That " CiBsar had his Brutus " — how " Wallace bled " we'll tell. And that " Freedom shrieked when Kosciusi^o fell." We will " swim the Hellespont " and cross the " Bridge of Sighs," And dive "in the bosom of the deep where Holland lies" ; We'll visit the cosy cottage whose smoke "so gracefully curls," ^Vnd solve the knotty problem, " what to do with our girls." " Auld Lang Syne " we'll sing, on "Sweet Home" we'll dwell.. And seize " the moss-covered bucket that hung in the well " ; For the woodman to " spare that tree " we will implore. And invoke that " hard times comes again no more." In common " we hold these truths to be self-evident," - That it is better to "be right than President " ; That industrious habits should "in each bosom reign," And that "Truth crushed to earth shall rise again. " 1 190 REUNION. Be(iueatlied by Washington to endless fame, Was the Starry Flag on land and ocean main ; A flag flaunting Liberty in repellent seas, Proudly unfurled, " braves the battle and the breeze. Bounteously ara we allowed to " behold this joyous day," From " ignoble strife keep the noiseless tenor of your way" ; The "cannon's opening rour" is frightful to be borne, O, " Ye Ancient Mariners," " man was made to mourn." " As we go marching on," "hand in hand we'll go," ' ' We hear their gentle voices calling, our heads are bending low " ; " Hold the fort ! for we are coming," on the " Swiftsure Line," To dwell with him once living at " Bingen on the Rhine." « !i <. '»iii H ii l i t ffl . «yiii.N ^V)H . , ^ ^Wr1-t WWHjBji'Mli! » '' l> MKii "^wpppid* e." day." IT way " ; lie, rn." ending low " ; sure Line," Line." "wwr?r -L ^i/Miii^iiKi, -^«^#«*vi'-,i«;v^