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Tous les autres exempleires originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premiere pege qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'iilustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivsnts apparattra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre film6s A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de heut en bas. en prenent le nombre d'imeges nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 **, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 103 B APPENDIX A. ON THE HAIDA INDIANS OF THB QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. BY GEORGE M. DAWSON, D.S., A.R.S.M., P.O.S. The following account of the Ilaida Indians is chiefly the result of pei-sonal observations during the portion of the summer of 1878 spent in the Queen Charlotte Islands, prosecuted during moments not occupied by the geological and geographical work of the expedition, at the camp fire in the evening, or on days of storm when it was impossible to be at work along the coast. I am also indebted to the Rev. Mr. Collison, of the Church Missionary Society, for various items of information, and largely to Br. W. F. Tolmie, of Victoria, for com- parative notes on the Tshimsians. Mr. J, G. Swan has published a brief notice of the Ilaidas in the Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge (Vol. XXI, 1876, No. 267.) This may bo consulted with advantage on some points, more particularly on the nature of the tattoo marks of these people. The present memoir is, however, I believe the first detailed account of the Haidas which has been given. The Ilaida nation appears to be one of the best defined groups of Homowniety tribes on the north-west cojist. Its various divisions or bands differ nation, scarcely at all in customs, and speak closely related dialects of the sumo language. They have been from the earliest times constantly in the habit of making long canoe voyages, and taking into account the ease with which all parts of their country can be reached by water, it would iiideed be difficult to exj^lain the slight differences in dialect which are found to exist, but for the knowledge that in former times they carried on, at least occasionally, intertribal wars ; besides con- stituting themselves, by their warlike foreign expeditions and the difficulty of pursuing them to their retreats, one of the most generally dreaded peoples of the coast, from '^''^ka to Vancouver Island. This wai'fare, however, partook of the barbarous character of that of the other American aborigines, and consisted more frequently in the ft! 104 H OEOLOmCAL srilVEY OF CANADA. surprise and massacre of helpless parties, even including old jjcoplo and women, than in actual prolonijed conflict. Territory. The original territory of the llaidas, as fai* as tradition carries us l)ack, is the well-detined gi'oup of islands called by Captain Dixon in 1T87 the Queen Charlotte Islands, but which the people themselves call JfiU-da-kwe-a.^ These islands lie between the latitudes of 51° 55' and 5-1° 15', with an extreme length of about 190 miles. They aw separated by waters of considerable witlth from the mainland to the oast and from the southern extremity of the territory of Alaska to the north. At the present day, however, peoi)le of the Haida stocU, and closely related in every way to the tribes of the norther»» end of the Queen Charlotte Islands, occupy also a portion of the coast of the southern islands of Alaska, being the south end of the Prince of Wales Archipelago, from Clarence Strait we^;tward, together with Forrester's Island. Islands not It has been supposed that from the large islands adjacent to the pied"frommam- mainland the Quee.i Charlotte Islands have been peopled, but this is *° * not the case, for the traditioiuiry account is still found among the natives of internecine wars as a result of which a portion of the Haidas of the northern part of the (^ueen Charlotte Islands were driven to seek new homes on the Prince of Wales group. Their story is borne out by other circumstances, and the date of the migration can- not be more than 150 years ago. These Haidas living bej'^ond the Queen Charlotte group are generally known collectively as Kai-ga-ni, which name is also among the Indians applied to the country they inhabit. Frequently, among tribes pretty closely related in language, the process of ditferentiation has gone so far that neighbouring peoples , disclaim any community of race, though on comparing their vocabu- laries their national identity becomes apparent. This is not the case, however, among the Haidas, who speak of all the people of their nationality as Haida, adding when necessary the name of the region inhabited by the tribe. A comparison of the Haida language with those of the other tribes of the coast shows very few poiiits of resem- blance. Physical peculiarities and dress. Build and ap- Physically, the various tribes of the north-west coast difler to some gJ^'J^J;*"^*''" extent, bo that a practised e^^e may distinguish between them, but the differences are slight as compared with those obtaining between the coast tribes generally, and those of the interior of British Columbia. The Haidas are, however, markedly fairer skinned than most of the * On tlio orthoKrapby of Indian words see note in conneotiun with the Uaida vocabulary. .1. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 105 n const tribes, and jiossess somewhat finer features. In the coarseness of the mouth, width and prominencooftlio check hones, and somewhat disproportionately hirge size of the head as compared with the hody, the main departures from ideal s^-mmetry are to he found. The hody is also not infrequently long and larij;e as compared with the le<^s, a eircumstanco (I'>ul)iless brought about by the constant occupation of these people in canoes and the infrequency of their land excursions. The hair is black and coai'He, and only in the case of ' medicine men ' have I observed it to be allowed to grow long in the male sex. A scanty moustache and heard sometimes clothe the upper lip and chin, generally in the case of old people who have given up the habit of erailicating the hair as it grows. In some instances, and these more numerous than in the other coast tribes, both men and women of pre- l>08sessing appearance, and with features of considerable regularity as measured b}' European standards, occur. The average physiognomy of the Haida shows more evidence of intelligence and quickness than that of most of the coast tribes, an appearance not belieil on more careful investigation. I have not been able to discern in their appear- ance anything of that exceptional fierceness said to be characteristic of them by the earlier vo.yagers, and can only suppose that these statements may have arisen from the more elaborate character of their armament and dress, and the liberal application of ]»igments to the skin. Many of the Ilaidas are said to be strong and dexterous swim- mers, but I have never seen them exercising the art, which may probably be reserved for occasions of necessity. They are not long- Disease?, lived, though grey-haired men and women may occasionally be seen. Pulmonary diseases accompanied b}' spitting of blood, and blindness genei-ally caused by a species of oi)thalmia, are not uncommon ; and other diseases incident to a life of exposure tend to reduce the term of life, as thay do among all the aborigines of the continent, liesides these, however, and much more fatal, are diseases introduccil among them since contact with the whites. Great numbers of the Haidas, with all the other tribes of the coast, have been cut otf by small-pox, both during their periodical visits to Victoria and after their return to their native islands. This disease is with them almost certainly fatal, and I oould learn of a single instance only in which recovery had occurred. Owing to the complete demoralization of the ]laidas since contact with the whites, and their practice of resorting to Vic- toria and other places, where they maintain themselves by shameless prostitution, venereal diseases are extremely common and destructive. In dress the Haidas, like other Indians, have adopted, so far ascostumo. thoir means enable them, the customs of the whites, though their costume as a rule might be considered rather scanty, and some of the lOU n OEOLOCilCAI. SI IIVEY OK CANAKA. older people use ncnrcoly aiiytliin^' but a l»Uinkot an, n protoction from the t'lemoiits. Tho Itlunkot with these people luw replaeetl (he '• ndtes ot'8on-otler skins" whieh so mueh pleased tho eyes of the early traders. Dixon •« doH- In Dixon's narrative* (i). 201) the sea-ottor '• eloaks " are said to uriptionoltheir ^' /> i • i • onginal droB?. " ^ciierallv contain throe good sea-otter skins, one ol winch is cut in two pieces; al'terwarils they are neatly sewod together ho as to form a square, and are loosely tied about the shouhlers with small leather strings fastened on each side." The woniens dress is nu)re particularly described on another ])age in tlie following terms: — " She was neatly dressed after their fashion. Jler untler garment, which was made of tine tanned leather, sat close to her bcxiy, and reached from her neck to the calf of her Ic/; ; her cloak or upper garment was rather coarser, and sat loose like a petticoat, and tied with leather strings." These extracts both refer j)articularly to tho Haidas, but in the general account of the natives of this part of tho north-west coast, the dress of the people is more minutely described in tho following pai'a- graph : — "In their dross there is little variety; tho men generally wearing coats (such as I have already described) made of such skins as fancy suggests or their buccess in hunting furnishes them with, and sometimes tho loose cloak thrown over the shoulders and tied with small leather strings. JJesides this, some of the more civilized sort, particularly those in Cook's Jlivor, wear a small piece of fur tied round the waist when the heat of the day causes them to throw thoir coat aside or they aro disposed to sell it. Tho dress of the women differs in some respects from that of the men. Their under garment is made ^ of fine tanned leather, and covers tho body from tho neck to the ankle, being tied in different parts to mako it fit close ; over this is tied a piece of tanned leather like an apron, and which reaches no higher than the waist. The upper garment is made in much the same manner as tho men's coats, and generally of tanned leather, tho women not caring to wear furs, as they wore always unwilling to be stripped of their garments, which, should they happen to bo worth purchasing, their husbands always insisted on their being sold. Indeed, tho deport- ment of tho women in general was decent, modest and becoming." Armour. I" former days a sort of armour was worn, consisting of split sticks arranged in parallel order and combined with the stronger parts of tho hide of the sea-lion. None of these suits can now, however, be found. A cloak or blanket very much prized by the llaidas and called naxin is obtained in trade from tho Tshimsians. It is shaped somewhat like a shawl, with a blunt point behind, and surrounded by a deep and • A Vojiige Round the World, but more particularly to the North-west Coo) Performed in 1785. 1786, 1787 and 1788, in the A'iiii; Geurge and Qtieen Charlotte, lock and Dixon. London, 1789. Coast of America. Cantains Port- QirKEN CIIAIILOTTE ISI,ANIIS. 107 II thick fringe of twisted wool. Finely shred codar hark is used as a basis or warp, on whieh tho wool of the mountain i^oai is worked in. The cloaks ai'e made in many small separate pieces, which are after- Pccuiinrcionk wards artfully sewn together. The colours of wool used are white, ' yellow, hlack and lirown, and the pattern hears a relation to the totem, .so that an Indian can tell to what totem the cloak helongs. These cloaks or blankets are valued at ahout 830. They are used specially ill dancing, and then in conjunction with a peculiar head-dress, which consists of a small wooden mask ornamentetl with mother-of-pearl. This stands up from tho fbrohojul, and is attached to a piece fitting over the head, oriuimented with feathers, itc, and behind siippoi-ting a strip of cloth about two feet wide, which hangs down to tho feet, and is covered with skins of the ermine. The cloaks are described by the chronicler of Di con's voyage as " a kiinl of variegated blanket or cloak, something like our horso-cloths ; they do not appear to be wove, hut made entirely by hand, and are neatly linished. I imagine that these cloaks are made of wool collected from the skins of beasts killed in the chase; thjy are held in groat estimation, and only wore on oxtraoixlinary occasions." Shred cedar bark, twisted into a turban, and stained dull red with {^"'i"'" *"» " ' turban. the juice of the bark of tbe alder, is frequently worn about the head, more, however, as an ornament than a covering, and apparently with- out any peculiar significance among the Ilaidas, though with the Tshimsians and Indians of Millbank Sound it is only worn on occasions of religious ceremony, and it would be considered improper at other times. Feathers, buttons, beads, portions of the shell of the llallotis, with Ornaraent?. the orange-coloured bill of the puffin, are used as ornaments, strung together or sewn on the clothes. The Dentalium shell was formerly prized and frequently worn, but has now almost disappeared. Painting is frequently practised, but is generally applied to the face Paint? nn.i only. Vermillion is the favourite pigment, and is usually — at least at the present day — rubbed on with little regard t) symmetry or pattei'n. Blue and black pigments are also used, but I have not observed in any case the same care and taste in applying the paint to form a sym- metrical design as is frequently seen among the Indians east of the Rocky Mountains. The face is almost always painted for a dance, and when — as very often happens — dances recur on occasions of cei'omony for several nights, no care is taken to remove the pigment, and most of the people may be seen going about during the day with much of it still adhering to their faces. To prevent unpleasant ott'ects from tho sun in hot weather, especially when travelling, the face is frequently first rubbed with fat, and then with a dark brownish powder made by pamtinf?. lOH B (1K0I,0(J'.C.\I- SURVEY OK CANADA. Ilriicolots and hiinglof. I Tattooing. Liibret. ronHliiig ill the fire the wocxly fnnj^us found (»ii the bark of trees, and nftorwurdrt ^rindinj^ it between Htones. This soon heeonu's nearly hhieiv. and rosemhles dried blotKl. A mixture of Hi>nK'e-j,'Uin and ^'i-easo, also of a (birii colour, is iiscil to protect the face in cold weather, while those in mourning frequently apply grease and chareoal to the face. Bracelets beaten out of silver coins are very generally worn by the women, who often carry several on each arm. The custom of wearing Hcvoral or many polished copper rings on the anUles and arms was formerly common among the Ifaidas and Tshimsians. Those for the ankles were round in section, those for the arms flat on the inner side. In Dixon's narrative "largo circular wreaths of copper" are spoken of as being Irequeiilly worn, both at Norfolk Sound and in the Queen Charlotte Islands. They "did not appear to be foreign manufacture, but twisted into that shape by the natives themselves to wear as an ornament alwut the neck." Tattooing is un'versally practised, or rather was ho till within the last few yeai-s, for it is noticeable that many of the children are now being allowed to grow up without it. The front of each leg above the ankle and the back of each arm above the wrist are the places gene- rall}' chosen, though the breast is also frequently covered with a design, The patterns are carefully and symmetrical!}' drawn, of the usual bluish colour produced by the introduction of charcoal into punctures in the skin. In one instance, however, a red pigment had also been employed. The designs are often hereditary, and represent the totem crest of the bearer, in the usual conventional style adopted by the coast Indians in their drawings. 1 have never observed any tattooing to extend to the face, where it is commonly found among the Tinnoh people of the interior, in the form of lines radiating from the corners of the mouth, on the chin or forehead. Till quite lately the females among the liaidas all wore labrets in the lower lip. Dixon particularly notes this as being the case, *hough in Norfolk Hound it was only practised by women of rank. Dixon further gives an admirable illustration of the Ilaida labret in the plate facing page 22G of his volume; already several times referred to. A small aperture first made is gradually enlarged by the insertion of lip-pioces of ever-increasing size, till the lower lip becomes a mere circle of flesh stretched round the periphery of a flat or concave-sided labret of wood or bone, which projects at right angles to the plane of the face. One obtained by Dixon was fountl by him to measure 3| inches long by 2^ broad, which is larger than any I have seen. Only among the old women can this monstrosity be now found in its original form. Many middle-aged females have a small aperture in the lip, through which a little beaten-silver tube of the size of a quill is thrust, fl giEKN (ilARLoTTK ISLANItS. 100 11 jiiojtM'tin;^ from the lace alxml n (|ii:irt(.'r of an inch. The youii/^or woiiuMi Imvc nol even this iviniiatit of the oM ciistoin. The jiieiriii^ of tlie lip wai the oeeasioii of a ecieinoriy uiid giviiifj; I'lm-irKrof lip iiway (dpropei-ty. I)uriii^ the o|>eniti«)ii the aiiiit of ih<; eiiild must'"" '""'' liolil lior. The shaj)e of (he Jlaiie<'e or stitie wan oval. Ainon^ tlio T.shiinNiaiis it was more eloiiijateil, aixl with (he Sliclveeii women nearly eireiilar. It was also formerly the eiislom to pierce the ears in .several plaeos. Three perforations in eaeli e.ir were usual among com- mon people, but eh iefs or those of im|)ortaneo had Hve or six. Tlieso held little ornaments formed of plates of haiiotis shell hacked with (iiin sheet copper, or the small shaij» teeth of the tin whale. This custom obtains also among the Tslnmsians and Stickeen Indians, and the Chiefs Callicum and Maquillu of Nootka Sound, Vancouver Island, are re])re.sentod with the name adornment in Meares' engraving of them. The septum of the nose is generally porfoj-ated in ho(h male.s and Pcrrnration of females, and was formerly made to sustain a pendant of haiiotis shell"*""'' or a Hilvor ring, though it is not now used in this way. No proee.ss of distortion of the head or other parts of the btxly is practised among the Ilaidas. Food. Like most of the tribes of the coast, the Ilaidas livo principally on tish. The halibut and salmon are chiefly depended on. A complete liat of the articles used by them as food would, however, indeed be a long one, as few organic substances not ab-solutely indigestible would bo omitted. The halibut fishery is systematically pursued, and the main villages Halibut fishery are so situated as to be within easy roach of the banks along the open coast on which the fish abounds. The halibut is found in great num- bers in all suitable localities from Capo Flattery northward, but is perhaps nowhere finer, more abundant and more easily caught than in the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte Islands. It may bo taken in most of the waters at almost any season, though more numerous on certain banks at times well known to the Indians. About Skidegate, how- ever, it is only caught in large numbers during a few months in the spring and early summer. When the fish are most plentiful the ilaidas take them in large quantities, wishing with hook and lino from their canoes, which aro anchored by stones attached tv) cedar-bark ropes of sufficient length. They still employ either a wooden liook armed with an iron — formerly bone — barb, or a peculiarly curved iron hook of their own manufacture, in preference to the ordinary fish hook. These implements are described with others in treating of the arts of the Haidas. The halibut brought to the shore are handed over by the men to the \n 1 B! r" CurinK the halibut. SnlmoD. Other fishes. Pollock. 110 u • IKOI.OOICAF. 8IKVKY OK ( A.VAI>.\. women, who, squutliMl on tlioir Imunehos, rapidly tloftn tlio Hsli, remov- ing tliu lui'jjfci' linncs, lieail, tins and tail, aiul then cutting it into lonj^^ tluUi'.s. Tlu'we aro noxt liun^ on the )K)k'.s (»l' a \voo(lon fVainowork-, where, without Halt — l>y the sun alone, or HometinioH aided hy a slow tire beneath the erection — they are tiriod, and eventual ly paeked away in hexes lor future use. There are no rivers of great size on the islands, hut ninny streams largo enough to he known as * salmon rivers ' to tlu' Indians. A run of small red-rteshed salmon occurs ahout the middle of July up some oi the larger streams. These answer no iloubl to the tish kmtwn on the Fraser Jliver us the suck eye, and much prized. They are, however, in inconsiderahio numhers, and not much sought alter by the llaidas. About the middle of August a larger species begins to arrive in great numbers, and this run sometimes lasts till January. These fish when they first appear and are still in salt-water are fat and in good condi- tion. They soon begin, however, to become hook-billed, lean and pale- fleshed. They ascend eveti very small sti*eams when these are in flood with the autumn rains, and being easily caught and large, they constitute the great salmon harvest of the Haidas. They are generally cither speared in the estuaries of the streams or trapped in lish-wiers made of split sticks, which are ranged across the brooks. The various * rivers' are the property of the severiil families or subdivisions of the tribes, and at the salmoii fishing season the inhabitants are scattered from the main villages ; each little ])arty camped or living in temporary houses of slight construction in the vicinity of the streams they own. It is scarcely necessary to particulari/.o at length the other species offish used as food, comprising all those abundant in the vicinity of the islands. Trout, herring, flounder, rock-cod, «!tc., constitute minor items in the dietar}'. The mackerel and cod are found, but not spe- cially sought after by the Indians, and it is not yet known whether at certain seasons and localities they may be sufficiently abundant to attract commercial enterprise. The spawn of the herring is collected on spruce boughs placed at low water on the spawning grounds, dried and stored away in a manner exactly simi lar to that practised by most of the coast Indians. The pollock is found (m the western coast. It is generally caught in deep water with hook and line, and owing to its fatness is much prized. The Haidas of Gold Harbour or Port Kuper make an annual business of catching these flsh in tlie latter part of the summer. They extract the oil from them by boiling in large wooden boxes with hot stones, and then skimming it from the surface. The oil is carefully stored away, and used as a condiment to dried fish or berries, instead of the oolachen grease, which by this tribe of Haidas is not much in request. , fli F'i- Qt'EEN CIIAHI,(»TTE ISLANDS. Ill n Salmon roe. Fixh yielilirigr uil. Both tlio Ilaidiis nn»l Tshimsiueis Imvo tliociiHtom of colloitin;; isnlmon roe, putting' it in hoxoH, and l)uryin<,' tlioso Itulow lii^'li-wator mark on the beach. When deconjpOMJtion has taken |)la(o to Hoino extent, aixl the luasM lias n most noisome od not K()i"l huiitery loss onablcs the otherwiso iinporfoct food to ^o further in supplying the Avaiitj* of tho system. The Ilaidas are not ^n-eat hunters. They kill a considcralile iiiunlKT of black bears at two seasons of the year, when they are found i)ro\vl- ing along the sea shore, hut do not follow tliem far into their mounttiin fastnesses. In early spring, wlien the grass along the edges of the woods begins to grow green, with the skunlv-eabl)age (Lijsichiton Kamtsc/uifensc) and other succulent vegetables, biiiin coming out to Bears, browse u[)on the tender shoots may fall a victim to (he lurking Indian. Again in autumn, when temj)ted to the shoi-es and estuai-ies by the dead and dj'ing salmon, he is apt to get into trouble, and at this season his skin, being in good condition, is of some value. There is pretty good evidence to show that the wapati occurs on the Waii.iti. northern part of Graham Island, but it is veiy seldom killed. Tlie small deer (C. Columbianus) is not found on the islands, nor is the wolf, grizzly bear, mountain sheep or mountain goat. fJeese and ducks in Waterfowl, vast numbers frequent the cciuntr}' about ^Afasset and Virago Sound in the autumn, and for a time form an important item in the diet of the natives. They now shoot them with the flint-lock trade muslcets with which thej-are generally armetl. I have seen a bow, with blunt wooden arrows, also in the canoe, to be used in despatching wounded but still living birds, and thus to save ammunition. .Sea-fowl of many kinds are articles of food on occasion, though the gull, the loon and some others are exempt on account of their exceptionally raidv flavor. The Egg?. eggs of sea-birds, and especially those of the large white gull, are col- lected in great quantity in the early summer. Kveiy lonel}' and wave- washed rock on which fliese birds de[)osit their eggs is known to the natives, who have even these apportioned among the families as here- ditary property. The singular rocks extending southward fi'i>m Cape St. James are frequented by m^^riads of sea-fowl, and some of them are so abrupt and cliff-surrounded that, lashed by the iie\or-ceasing swell of tho Pacific they remain inaccessible even to the IFaidas. The potato, called s/iow-s/uf in ITaida, introduced by some of the Potato. early voyagers, now forms an important j)art of the food sup]ily. A Skidegate Imlian told mo that it was first grown at Skidegate, but I w far this statement may be reli.able. The greater part of even the flat low lands of these islanosts, is this superiority shown. Among the 'JVhimsians at I'ort Simpson, most of the original carved posts have been cut down as missionary influence spread among the people. At Nawitti (Hope Island), (^uat- 110 B (lEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF (WNADA. Arrangenieiit of villages. sino Iiilot (Vaiu-ouvci" Island) and olscwheic. wheie tlio natives are still niinuM'ous and have scarcely l)cen reached by niis.sionaries, llioni,4i similar ])osts are loiind, they are small, shahhy, and show little of the pocnliar grotesque art found so fully developed amoiii^ the Ilaidas. Villwes. ^Vs lu'fore mentioneosts for eacli house, and these, when the village i- first seen from a distance, give it the aspect of a patch of burnt forest with bare, bristling tree-stems. The houses themselves are not paintetl, and soon assume a uniform incon- spicuous grey colour, or become green or overgrown with moss and weeds, owing to the dampness of the climate. The cloud of smoke generally h(»vering over the village in calm weather, ma}' serve ti> identify it. Two rows of houses arc occasionally formed, where the area selected is contracted. No special arrangement of houses accord- ing to raidv or ]»reccdence appears to obtain, and the housi' rtf the chief may be either in the centre of the row or at the end. Kach house generally necommodates several families, in t)ur sense of the term : which are related together, and under the acknowledged guidance of the elder to whom the house is reputed to belong, and who is i-eally a minor chief, of greater or less importance in the tribe — or village — accordingto tlie amount of his property and number of his people. Carved posts I" trout of one or more of the principal houses platforms are often fouml, on which a group of people may be seen squatting in conversa- tion or engaged in their interminable gambling game. The forest of carved posts in front of the village, each of them representing a great expenditure of property and exertion, doubtless presents to the native eye a grand and awe-inspiring appearance and brings to the mind a sense of probably mysterious import, which possibly does not in reality cm M PiW QIKKN CIIARI-OTTB ISLANDS. 117 n oxisl. lloliind the dwollintr lioiisos, oi- toward ono end of tiie villai^OTomb". and ii;)t I'ar i-cinovod Imm it. aro tho small houses or sheds in wliieh the dead arc phit-ed, or pairs of posts su])portini^ a hollowed beam which contains the body. • These j)ermanent villai^es of the llaidas are now miieh reduced in Abandonment number, in eorres))(»ndence with the very rapid decrease of the ])eoi)Ie ""uagoff^"^ thomselvos. Those villa<;es least fav«turably situated as tishiiii^ stations, oi- most remote fi'otn communication, have been ai)aMdone(l, and their ])eoj)le absorbed in others. This has happened es|)^'cially on the tem- ])ostuou ■ west coast of the islanils, where there is now Itut a single inhabited village. Even those still occuj)ied aro rajjidl^- falling to decay; the older people gradually dying oft', the younger resorting more and mor»' to Victoria and beginning to (les])ise (he old ways. Many liouses have been eomjdetely deserted, while others are shut up and mouldering away under the weatlier, and yet others, large and fitted to accommodate several families, aro occupied by two or throe people only. The carved posts, though one may still occasionally be erected, are as a rule more or less advanced toward decay. A j'ank growth of weeds in some cases presses close up among the iidiabited houses, the ti-attic not being sufficient to keep them down. In a few years little of the original aspect of these villages will remain, though at the ])resent moment all their i)eculiaritiescan be easily distinguished, and a very little imagination suffices to picture them to the mind as they must have been when swarming with inhabitants dressed i>i sea-otter robes atid seal skins. The llaidas reside in those permanent villages during the ^vii'ter i^pg;jgn,.g^ season, returring to them ;ifter the close of the salmon fishery, about Christmas-time. A porti' ,. of the tribe is, however, almost always to be found at the permanent village, and from time to time during other seasons of the year almost the whole tribe may be concentrated there. The villages differ somewhat in this res])ect. When the territory owned by its people is not very extensive, or does not lie far off, they live almost continually in the villag* \ When it is otherwise, they become widely scattered at several seasons. The llaidas trouble themselves little about the interior country, but prnnertyin the coast line, and csj)ecially the various rivers and streams, are divided "' among the different families. These tracts arc considereil as strictly personal pro])erty, and are hereditaiy rights or ])ossessions, descending from one generation to another according to the rule of successi(m elsewhere stated. The}' may be bartered or given away, and should one family desire to fish or gather beri-ies in the domain of another, the privilege must be paid for. 80 strict are these ides * of proprietary right in the soil that on some parts of the coast sticks may be seen set I W 118 B OEOLOaiCAL SURVEY OF CANADA. [ : ^ :- ' 1 f 1 1 1 * Temporary houses. up to define the limits of the Viirioiin pro|>ortios, ami woe to the dishon- est Indian who appropriates anything of value — as for instance a stranded shariv, or seal or sea-otter which has died from its wounds — that comes ashore on the stretch of coast hi'k>n<;-in^ to another. A! )ng the shores the principal borry-i^atherinjif grounds are fmind, and thus divided. The larger salmon streams are often the property Jointly of a number of families; and at these autumn fishing grounds temporary houses, small and roughly constructed, are generally to he found. The split cedar plardts of the permanent houses are not usually carried hy the llaidas to these less substantial houses, tliough this custom prevails elsewhere on the coast. The construction of the houses thus tempora- rily occupied is generally so slight and rough as to necessitate no particular description. Poles or cedar planks are built or ])iled together in whatever manner seems best suited to keep out the rain. In .some cases where they ai'O more substantial they resemble on a reiluced scale those of the permanent villages. The mode of construction of the latter is desci'ibed further on. In these temporary shelters, or in even less commodious camps among the trees, the natives live during a considerable part of the yeai", engaged in salmon fishing, the cutting down of trees and rough hewing of canoes, the gathering and prepara- tion of cedar bai-k for mats, and other occupations, which, each at its appropriate season, fill out the annual round of duties. ooiMtructfon*^of ^^*^ actual construction of the permanent houses devolves entirely houses. on the men, but is not effected by individual effort. Indeed, the very size of the beams and planks used necessitates the cooperation of many hands. The erection of a house, therefore, in all its stages, from the cutting and hewing out of the beams in the forest, the launching of these and towing them to the village, their erection and fitting, forms the occasion of a • bee ' or gathering of natives, which generally includes detachments from neighbouring villages, and is the occasion of a pot- latch or giving away of property by the person for whom the labour is undertaken. Several such gatherings are usually required for the completion of a house, which may be some years in course of construc- tion, as the man for whom the work is done generally exhausts his available resources on each occasion, and requires again to accumulate property, and especially blankets, for a new effort. Dancing and gaming relieve the monotony of the work, which generally occupies but a small portion of each day, and is conducted with much talk aud noise, and the shouting of many diverse orders as the great beams are handled. Among the Haidas each permanent village constitutes a chieftaincy, and has a recognized head chief. The chiefs still possess considei-able influence, but it is becoming less, and was doubtless very much greater Chieftaincy. QIKEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 119 B in former times. Tt \v:is iiovor, liowcver, the ahsoltito aiul despotic authority wliieh is sometimes attributed to Indian chiefs. The chief is merely tlie head or presiilent of the various family oomhinations, and unless his decisions carry with them the assent of the other lenders they have not much weight. ]Ie has no power of com poll! ni; work p,„y„ of cjiiefi from other memhei's of tlie tribe. Should he require a new house ho '"""**'• must pay for its erection by makinj^ a distiMl)ution of property, just as any other man of the tribe would do; and indeed it is expected of the chief that ho shall )»e partici.ilarly liberal in those <^ivini^s away, as well as in providincj feasts for the people. Ho is also supposed to do the honours to distinguished visitors. In Captain Dixon's narrative, tho following statements concerning the position of the chiefs at the time of his visit ar^ found : — " Though ever}' tribe met with at these islands is governed by its respective chief, yet they are divided into families, each of which appears to have regulations and a kind of subordinate government of its own : tho chief usually trades for the whole tribe; but rhave sometimes observed that when this method of barter has been disapproved of, each separate family has claimed a right to dispose of their own furs, and the chiof always complied with this request." Tho chieftaincy is hereditary, and on the death of a chief devolves Succession to upon his next eldest brother, or should he have no brother, on his nephew, or lacking both of these his sister or niece may in rare cases inherit the chieftaincy, though when this occurs it is probably only nominal. It is possible — as occasionally happens in the matter of succession to property — that a distant male relative may, in want of near kinsmen, be adopted b}' the mother of the deceased as a new son, and may inherit the chieftainc}'. I have not, however, heard of cases of this kind. Should all these means of filling the succession fail, a new chief is then either elevated by the consensus of public opinion, or the most opulent and ambitious native attains the position by making a potlatch, or giving away of jiroperty greater than any of the rest can afford. Should one man distribute ten blankets, the next may dispose of twenty, the first tries to cap this by a second distribution, and so on till the means of all but one have been exhausted. This form may in reality become a species of election, for should there be a strong feeling in favour of any particular man, his friends may secretly reinforce his means till he carries his point. In no case, however, does the chief- taincy pass from the royal clan to any of the lesser men of the tribe. On being elevated to the chieftaincy the chief assumes a hereditary name, which is also colloquially used as that of the tribe he rules. Thus there is always a Cumshewa, Skedan, Skidegate, &c. ; and since the islands have been frequented by vessels, the word 'captain' is mgm 120 li (lEOLOdlCAL SrRVEV OK CANADA. Mysterious ]>ropcrtic«. frequently ad'leil in llio titular iinine of llic cliiof in wpealvin^' of him to the wliites. lo signify his rank. Certain seerets are ivimtecl to appertain to the ollieo of chief, anion^ whieh is tho possession of various artiek'.s of i>roi)erty whieh arc supposed to ho mysterious and unknown to the rest of the Indians, or common people (Ilaida a-JI-Jaca). A very inlelli^'ent Skide^ate Indian from whom 1 derived nuieli information, as ho was well versed in tiie Chinook Jargon, told me, for instance, that on the death of tho last Skidei^ate chief the new chief wished him to pcrfoi-m a dance in Ijonour of the great de])arted. this being ono of the rites which it is necessary that the heir should attend to. The dance is one made by a single man, the ])erformer being naked with tho exception of tho breech-cloth. When my informant was about to engage in the dance the chief took him aside, showing him various articles of the myste- rious chlcfn jirop(i'tic». Among others a peculiar whistle, or coll with vibratinir reed ton'^ues, which concealetl in the mouth etuildos tho operator to produce strange and startling noisos, that may bo supiiosod l»y those not in the secret to indicate a species of possession in the excited dancer. These things are explained by the chief to his jirobablo successor, and ai'c also known to some of tho more important Indians, but not to all. They are, no doubt, among the devices for obtaining and holding authority over the credulous vulgar. Among the Tshimsians in former days, and probably also among the ]Iaidas, a chief had always his principal man, who lias considerable authority, and gives advice and instruction to the chief's sucoossor. He never inherits the chieftaincy, liowever. Kach chief with the Tshimsians had also his 'jester,' who is sent on errands of invitation, announces the guests on their arrival, and makes jokes and endeavours to amuse the company, though jireserving his own gravity. The jester is not, of course, always in attendance. Jle receives nothing for liis trouble, apparently looking on the position as honourable, and inltorits nothing on the chief's death. It not infi'e(iuently hajfjiens that a chief grown old, decrepit or poor, though the honourable title still clings to him, is virtually succeeded by some more energetic man, who sways tho actions of the ti-ibo in his stead. The village appears to be tho largest unit in tho llaidu sy.- facto ry aMioiiiit. Tlio i-ulprit ^cnoruliy jHH-fcrs lliLs nnxlo of scttlcniciit to liuving an nnc-ertain rotrii)iition iian^nni^ over him, and as tlic value Hot on j)roperty i.s ^rcat, and thtMlisinclination to I'l'diicc liiostoi-e of lilankcts — which may poH.sibly l»c accuiniilatinic lor a prosjx'ciivc distribution — cxcosnivc, tho restraint is [)ro])ortionatoly severe. RclJijioti and ' mt'dirinc.' It is difflciiit to decide precisely l»o\v much should be inchulod umler Religion, the heading relujion. The older Indians, and indeed those of every ai;e where they have come not too closely in contact with the whites, sIikw a persistent — one miglit almost say a fervent — reverence for iheir time-honoured customs, among which, in this case, the giving away ot' pro])ei'ty or^)of/a^fA and the various dances, are the most |iromineMt. There are no pi-iests, however, nor could 1 heai- of any religious i itual among tho JIaidas. The medicine or mj'steiy man, or shanum (llaida skn-(ja), occuj)io» a position pei-hap.s jwirtly ])artalving of the }iriestly function, but more closely allied to that of the jtrophet, sorcerer, or physician. The Tshlmsians say that tho JIaidas had oi'iginally no religion whatevei-, but ado])ted their coremonies not a veiy great while ago. This may account for tiie use of Tshimsian words in the dances among the JIaidas, and the high esteem in which the Tshimsian language is lield by them. Jt is ])ossible that some of tho dances described farther on may have, in part, a religious significance and form a portion of tho religious ceremonies above I'eferred to. Jt is, however, unquestionable that the JIaidas have, and had before Wea of a chief any missionary leaven spread among them, an idea of a chief deity, or lord of all things, wliose dwelling was in s(tmo remote, undetincd region. This J ascertained by careful in((uii'y from the SUidegate Indian already referred to, and Mr. Collison, who has been two years among the Masset JIaidas as a missionary', and can sj)cak the language with some fluency, confirms me in this statement. The name of this being is Sun-'ia- tlai-dus, or Sha-nung-l-tlag-i-das. JJis attributes are generally good, but it is difficult to ascertain exactly what ihey are, owing to the reticence observed by natives in s})eaking to whites of those of their customs or beliefs which they fear may bo ridiculed, bnt perlia]is also in this case to the fact that they have at no time been very precisely defined. The idea of a spirit, soul, or essence being in reality the man. and distinctly Ncparable from the more perishable body, is also firmly rooted in tho Ilaida mind. There is also a recognised princi])k^ of evil, called y/r/Z-rfc- Power of evil. Idn-a, a name signifying chief of the lower regions. This being is either typified by, or a.ssumes the form of a certain iidiabitant of the sea, believed to bo the killer whale (Orca ater). Indians who lose their lives 122 B OEOI.OOICAL HIUVEV OP CANADA. 11 . ) t Artor (loath. by (lr()wiuii<^ i\ro takoii possossion of l»y the pnwor of ovil, and nrc tiirticii int() iK'iiit^Hliko hiinsi'lruiKlor hiMcliioftniiiHliip. Tliosf killed in Iciitic or evi'ii iioii-combatiintrtiK'cidontally killed diiriiii^ a fii;lit, ^o at oiht In tho country of Sim-l-ihflai-tlm, which is supposed to he a happy re^'ioii. Tho H])ii'its of those who die from disease, or in the course of nature, become latent, or jmss to an ill-deHnod Hades, but uro from time to time recovered, I'cturnini^ to the world as tho scuils of new-liorn children, generally — '>r always — in tlu> tribe to which they thomstilvcs Transmigration formerly b(^lf)n;^ere stuck. A carved stick, like those used in dancing, rented in one corner, and before the kiu^o.s was a square cedar box, whicdi no doubt contained various other pro- perties. Had J not had wit!: me an Indian of the tribe, I should iiavc been tem))ted to investigate further. The face was the only pai-t ot the body uncovered, and the flesh appeared to have been partly dried on the bones, giving it a mummydike aspect. I mention this fact as it is believed both at Skidegate and Masset, and probably- generally among the llaidas, that the bodies of mediciije-men do not decay like those of others, leaving oidy the bones, but dry up without decomposi- tion. In this ])articuiar case, it is said among the people of the tribe that if anyone looking at the dead man should see a skeleton onl}', he or some of his near kinsfolk will sui-ely soon die, whereas if flesh is seen the omen is propitious. Ghostly appari- (){• another sha- thing like this ratio. This retention ef a certain amount of the property and its return with increase, appears to be looked upon as an honour by those to whom it is given out. The menibers of the tribe are then called together for ii certain date, and at the same time pa ties frotii other, and ])crhai)s distant, villages are invited. The work in liand is accomplished, the man for whom it is done making feasts of the best he has for his gtiests, and the toil being varied by dancing and gambling with the gaming- stieks, which occupy all the time not more j)r<)Htably employed. The work finished, the distribution takes place, and shortly afterwards all disperse. It. is usual to make a jjot latch on the occasion of tattooing a child, and at other stages in its advance toward manhood. When it is desired H) show an utter disregard of worldly wealth, the blankets are torn into sti-ips and scattered anv.ng the crowd, and money is also T% QUEEX CIIAIlLoTTK ISLANDS. 127 li strowii broiulwist. Tlii jiroceduro is somctiiucs roilowod in (.'ninpoti- lioiis for tlic chieftaincy, uli-oady i-efoned to. A similar praciiio is also a method of showing- I'ago or gficf. At .Massvt, latdv, it ln-cumo known to a fatiior liiat u young man had made impropi-i- advance^ lo his daughter. The father immediaivdy, in great anger, toi-e ujj twen! y Faulr atoned hhmkets, which not only served as an oiuicL lur iiis leelings, hut"' placed the young man under the necssity ol destroying a similar number of blankets; and in this case, not being ))(>s^e>^ed of sufricieiic ])ro()erty, tliose of the young man's ioieni-i-hm ii;id to furnish In' subscription the roquisite number, or leave upon iheniMdve.^ a lasting disgi'ace. The feelings of the subscribers were iiol, natniallv ot liie kindest toward the young man, but they did not in this case turn him out of the tribe, us they Jiad u right to do after having atoned for his fault. Among the T.shimsians an ordinary man conlines his potlatch or ya/i Distribution to those of hid own village, v hile a chief generally, or often, invites 'ivhimsinns. people from other villages also. The chief may be assisted in giving potlatches by his people. Should he desire help of this kind, he gives a feast with many ditferent dishes, to which all are invited. The next day a drum is beaten for him by his jester in u peculiar manner, when all who have been at the feast come together with gifts, which are afterwards, with those belonging to the chief himself, given away.' Dancing ceremonies. The dance is closely connected with the potlatch ceremonies, but also takes place iu some instances without the occasion of a giving awaj' of property. In most of the dances the Tshimsian language is used in the >ong, which would appear to indicate that the ceremonial has been borrowed from these people. Xotwithstanding the old-time hostility of the Haidas and Tshimsians, the former profess a great liking for the Tshimsian language, and many of tliem s]>eak it fluently. .Six kinds of dancing ceremonies are ilistinguished, ami are desig-SLwarloties. nated in the Skidegate dialect by the following names: — (1) Shd-ga, (2) Ska-did, (3) K>cai-o-) Hi-atl. Of these 1 have only witnessed No. o, the description of the others being at second-hand from the intelligent Skidegate Indian already more than once referi-ed to. 1. Skd-(/a is performed on occasions of joy, as when friendly Jndiansska-sra. arrive at a village in their cant»es, and it is desired to manifest pleasure. A chief performs this dance. He takes his stand in the house at the side ot the central tire furthest from the door. He should wear over his shoulders one of the na-xin or Tshimsian blankets, made of tine cedar-bark and the wool of the mountain goat. Ho wears, besides, the I, t-.i mm 128 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. h Skii-dul nnd Kwai-o-guns-O' lung. ti best clotlios ho may happen to liiive, and on his head an onianu-nt made of the stout bristles tVojn the whiskers of tiie sea-lion. Those are set upi'ig'ht in a circle, and Ijotwoen thcni leathcr-down is heaped, which as he moves is scattered on all sides, tilling the air and covering; the spectators. He dances in the usual slouching way common among the Indians, l)en(ling his knees, but not lifting his feet far from the ground. The peoi)le, sitting around in the tire-light, all sing, and tho drum is continually beaten. This dance may last half an hour or an hour. 2. The dance distinguished as SIm-'IuI, appears to be merely tho beginning of tlvit known as (3) Kicai-o-guns-o-lung. Any man who knows the mode of singing starts the dance alone, when it is called Ska-dul, soon others join in, and it becomes No. 3. This is performed by no particular number of people, the more tho better, and occurs only when a man desires shortly to make a house. The man himself does not dance, nor does any giving away of property take place. Tho women occupy a prominent place in this dance, being carefully dressed with the little marks and na-xhi or cloaks previously' described. One man performs on a drum or tamborine to which all sing, or grunt in time, shuffling about with a jerky motion as they do so. There is a master of the ceremonies who leads off the chorus. Rattles are freely iised. The song is in praise of the man who intends to build, and also of the dancers. It eulogises his strength, riches, and so on, and is in the Tshimsian language. Kii-trt-ka-sim. 4. Ka-ta-/(a-gi(H. This is performed by the male relatives of a man's wife, and takes place when a house has been finished, the owner at tho same time making a distribution of property. The dancers are attireil in their best, oi-nanaented, and with faces painted, but no birds'-down is used. It is performed in the newly finished house, and may occupy half an hour or an hour. The man who makes the distribution does not dance. AH sing in the Tshimsian laniruaire. 5. Ska-nit. One man performs this (lance, but is generally or always paid to do the duty for the person more immediately concerned. It takes place .some days before a distribution of property, on the occasion of such an event as the tattooing (tf a child or death of a relative oi- friend. Tho dance is porformed by a single man, naked with the exception of his breech-cloth. In the lirst part of the dance, which appears to be intended to simulato a sort of pos.session oi- frenzy, one of the grotesque wooden niiisks i>i worn, and this is tho oidy dance in which they are used. Tho wearing of the mask is not, however, abso- lutely necessary, but is a matter of choice with tho performer. (Jetting heated in the dance, he throws the mask away, snatches up the first dog he can find, kills him, and tearing pieces of his flesh oats them. .Ska-rnt. Mask. -I QCEEN rilARLOTTE ISLANDS. 120 n This (liuicc is not pcrlbrniod in the house as the others are. but at large through the village. The usual present tariff for the perfbrnianee of ll)e ceremony is about ton blankets. On en(|uii-ing what the feelings of the man might l»e M'ho.se dog was devoured, J found that afterwards the dog is appraised and paid Ibi- to the satisfaction of all ])arties. This is characteri.slfc of tlie mannei- in which, among the llaidas themselves, the ])rinciple of nothing for nothing is sti'ictly cai'i'ied out. o. J/i-atf. This dance is very frequently indulged in, and is on occa- lU-ati. sion of any joyful event, as the arrival of visitors, etc. It is ])erfornied hy several or many men, "who wear feathers in their hair and paint their faces. The llaida language is used in the song. No distribution of propertj' haj)})ens, except in the case of the dance being to denote the conclusion of mourning for a dead friend. In this instance a potlatch occurs b}'' the foi-mer mournej', who invites his friends together to dance with him. (rambling is as common with the Haidas as among most other tribes, Gambling, which means that it is the most popular and constantly pi-actised of all their amusements. The gamblei* frerpiently loses his entire property, continuing the play till he has nothing whatever to stake. The game generall}' played I have not been able to understand cleai-h'. It is the same with that of most of the coast tribes, and not dissimilar from gambling games played by the natives from the Pacific coast to Lake Superior. Sitting on the ground in a circle, in the centre of which a clean cedar mat is spread, each man produces his bundle of neatly smoothed sticks, the values of which are known by the markings upon them. The}' are shuffled togeth"? in soft teased cedar bark, and drawn out by chance. Social customs. Sonie points connected with the social relations of the llaidas have already been touched upon, others may be noted here. A man wishing to marry, informs his mother on what girl his heart Marriage, i- tixcd, and she, going to the mother of the beloved one (sweetheart or l;a-tit-dha), endeavours to arrange the match. An understanding having been arrived ul, the man, when ready, invites his friends to acc()i>ij);iny him, and going together to the house of the girl's parents, they c-.;cor, and sit down around the tire, beside which the girl and her friends also are. The young man's friends then speak in his favour, recommending him to the father of the girl, and praising his good qualities. When the talk is finished, the girl rises, and going to where her would-be husband is, sits down beside him and takes his hand. The ceremony is then complete, and the father of the girl gives M mm mmm 130 B GEOLOGICAL SURVET OF CANADA. i. Polygamy. Training of girls. various articles of property to ]n)v, constituting her dowry. She is led away by her husband, but after a time returns on a visit to her parents, bringinu; presents, generally of food, from her husband. Marriage is contracted eaily. Polygamy is practised, but not extensively; it was formoi-ly more usuai, but was always mainly or entirely confined to recognised enic's. I could hear of but a single instance in which a man yet has two wives. This case is at Skidegate. Three or four wives were not uncommon with a chief in former day.s, and it was told to me as a tradition by a liaida that a Tshimsian ehief at one time had ten wives. As the women do not contribute matei-ially to the support of the family, attending only to the accessory duties of raring and preserving the tish, it is pi-obably difficult for a man tt> maintain many wives. The women appear to be well treated (Mi the whole, are by no means looked upon as mere servants, and have a voice in most matters in which the men engage. Children are desired, and treated as well as the mode of life and knowledge of the Ilaida atlmits. Very few children are now, however, seen about some of the villages, the women resorting to Victoria for purposes of prostitution. Their husbands, be it said to (heir shame, frec^uently accompany them, and live on their ill-gotten gains. It is said that in the early days of their Contact with the whites, the llaidas were disting 'ished by good moi-als. If so, they differed from most of the coast tribes, among whom great laxity has always prevailed. Female chastity is certainly not now prized. When a girl is about to reach jnaturit}' she must attend to various ceremonies, and pass through cei-tain ordeals. It was the custom that she should wear a peculiar cloak or hood at that time foi" several months, or oven half a year. This was made of woven cedar- bark, nearly conical in shape, and reached down below the breast, though open before the face. It was, I believe, called Iq/ xc- The faci> was painted with the powdered fungus already alludeil to, and fastitig more or less severe was practised. It was also customaiy to screen otf a corner of the lodge and give the girl a separate fire, and allow her to go out and in by a separate door at the back of the house. This was connected with an idea of ceremonial uncleanne.-s. Did she require to pass out by the front door, it was necessary first to remove all the arms and various other things. In meeting men, the face was to be quickly covered with a corner of the blanket. These or other similar customs were also in vogue among the Tshimsians, whose practices so closely resemble the Haidas in most respects. Among these people great care was taken to teach the girls submission, contentment, and industry. At certain times they were not allowed to lie down to sleep, but if overcome with drowsiness must prop themselves in a sitting posture QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. ini B between boxes. Before (IrinUiiiii;, the cup must bo turned round four times in the direction of niovemont of the sun. It was also usual foi- the mother to save all liairs combed out of the head of the gii-l. and twist them into conls, wliich were then tightly tied round the waist and ankles, and left the^'e till they fell t(» pieces of themselves. This was supposed to give u tine shape to the body. In eating, the girl nuist always sit down, to j)revent a too great corpulence. If orphaned the various cerenn)nies must bo again performed by the girl, even though already all attended to. Among the Tsliimsians peculiar ceremonies exist in connection witliTshimsian the 'bringing out' of young men and women, and it is an occasion (^f '"■"*-'"^'"'- public feasting. In the case of a young woman, the peoples being all colloclod, a curtain is raised, and she is seen silting with her bac!; to the spectators, iK^culiarly dressed, and surrounded by a circle of upright ' co])pers,' if enough can be mustered. She then begins to sing, or, if she does Jiot, an old woman begins to sing near hei', and she becoming encouraged joins. The old woman then gradually di-ops her voice till the novice is singing alone. She tlien eventually malcts a dance before all the people. The songs and dances are ;ira('tisey the name of^ the Naming a son. mother's eldest brother, the second-born after the mother's second bro- ther, ov by one of the additional names of the first. Should the mother have no brother, the name of some dead friend is clioscn, or in cases whore the medicine-man reveals the return of some one formerly dead in the new-born child, the name of the person supposed to be thus returning to the tribe takes precedence of all others. A ehiet"s son is named by its mother after consultation with a medicine-man, whom she pays. lie takes a night to think, and mayhap dream, about it. There- after he gives the name of a dcceasi'd male relative on the mother's side, which is ado|)ted. The ceremony of naming is witnessed by Sfastes in ad- 1 . » • ,1 1 r 1 ) 1 1 1 .1 1 •! 1 vance to man- many, and presents are given. A sister of tiie fathers holds tiio eluldhoud. when named, and becomes its ' godmotliei"' afterwards. For this she receives presents from the father, and from the boy himself when grown up if she has used him well. The next ceremony i.-^ thai of piercing the lobes of the ears and septum of the nose, when gifts are again distributed, the godmother-aunt coming in foi- a good share. Four limes in all a youth changes his name, always taking one from his mother's family. A potlatch and tattooing of the youth takes place on each occasion except the first, when the latter is omitted. Also u house-building bee. On the last of these occasions the young 132 H GEOLOUICAL SUllVEY OF CANADA. t ' Slavery iniui i-i allied by his mother's people, inalvcs the potlateh from his own house and in his own last adopted nan\e. Dancini^ and sin_s^in^ are in orilei- at all potlatchos. The first house-build in_i^ is called tux-f • •. • • • • • « • • • •• • • • 130 n (lEOLOOICAT. SURVRY OP CANADA. li V \i ■ 1 H ^ Payment for |)rivileR08. Trade in oola- oben greane. ■f;-' I ( . A man of property nuiy liivvo Hoveral hiindivd. The practice ot' amaH^^illJ;• wealth in hiankets, no douht had itn origin in an eailier one of acciiiuulatinLj the 8oa-ottei' and fur-seal I'obes, which stood in tlio j)lac'0 of l»hiid I < I QirKEN CllAUr-OTTK ISLANDS. l:]7 IJ iunoiii,' llio lioiist's of Iho villiif^c, tin' Ibiind tit tlicir Dvoiiiii^' iiu':il. Bii>inos.s (Iocs not hcitm (o occiipy their sitteiitioii ; tliry will rcMiiaiii hero M'Vi'nil ilays to talk aljoiit that. Arts (iiid Architecture. Uiidci' this spt'cial hcadin'-- a low points may Ik; taken iij), some of wliit'h have already heeii incidiMitally referred to in i^enoral terms. The primitive sou-otter or seal skin cloak of the llaidas has already heon doserihed in exti-acts v l>nn<'iiiB the Tshimsians, so much ])rized, and have heon dcsciihcd, and the hcad-di'oss woi'u at the same time with the nnxhi mentioned. This consists ossontially of a small, nearly tlat mask (one in my jiossossion is <• inches lon^ by 5f wide, and is represented in Fit(. 4), fixed to an erection of cedar hark, feathers, itc, iti such a manner as to stand oroct above the foi-ohead of the woman. At the hack depends a ti-ain, which may ho made of cloth, hut should have ermine skins sewn on it. These mask;-, are fre(iuently well carved to represent a human face not unpleasant in expression, and have the teeth and eyes formed of iidaid llaliotis shell. On ordinary occasions a hoas in loiii^th. The hottom in the hirger of tliese vessels is frequent 1\' a separate flat piece of wood neatly joined. One end of many of thoe dishes is eai-ved to ivpi'esent the head of a beaver or otiier animal, wliilo the other earrirs a rej)resontation of the legs and tail (Figs. ;)() and :',2). Other earvings may ornament the sides. This form is sometimes varied in the smaller sizes by making the vei-tical in-otile of the longer edges eorrespond to u grueeful curve instead of keeping to one plane. Another moditieation of this type is found in a dish to otic end of whieh a !>road, fiat expan- sion carved to represent the tail of a bird is tixed, while the head ])roJeets fi-om the opposite end. The l)ird is represented as Ij'in-- on its back when the dish is in its proper ])0sition, the hollow bt'ing made apparently in the bird's breast. One of these is I'cjjresentod in Fig. 33. Very large dishes are still ocM:-asionally, and Avere formerly freqiuMitly Lin-iMV(ii"ieu made for use, in feasts given by chiefs, itc. One of these had a general truuKlls!'^ form like that of the first described kind of dish, but was nearlj- square, the sides being 3 feet 8 inches. It was composed of four side pieces and a bottom piece neatly pegged together, while the edge was surrounded by a double row of opereula. Another form seen in one of the old houses on Parry Passage is a parallel-sided trough six or eight feet long, with a head carved at one end, a tail and ])air of swimming feet at the other, the whole being su]>posed to represent a sea-lion. Still another pattern was found in a shallow^ gracefully shaped tray 5 feet 6 inches long, and about one-third as wide. The ends of this were obtusely pointed and overhung, while above, a flat space between each extremity and the end of the hollow w^ithin, bore a complicated pattern in incised lines. The stone mortars already mentioned as having been employed in the stone mortars. ^-reparation of the native tobacco, now seem to be little if at all r od for any purpose. They are genei-ally circular in outline and \' iihout ornamentation, being in some cases verv roui^hlv made. OthiH" examples are ornamented by carving. A plain circular mortar > f uither greater size than usual was found to have a wi('th of H, a heighth of G^, and an internal depth of 41 inches. A second (Fig. 15), carved externally to re])resent a frog had, disregarding the projecting points of the carving, the following dimensions, in the same order as above, — G^; 5i ; 3^ inches. One inoitar of an oval form, with i)rojecting carved ends, was seen (Fig. 11). It repre- sents a frog or some large-mouthed kind of tish like a cottus, but the design is complicated by the introduction of a human face near what i-ihould the hinder end of the animal. The extreme length of this mor- tar is 16^ inches, the width at the middle 8 inches tapering a little from the head to the tail, and the height at the middle, whieh is pp 142 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. It Horn dish. Ladles and snoons. Knives. Household liuxes. slightly lower than the ends, 5^ inches. The dinien.sions of the interiov hollow of this mortjir are 8 by 5^, an 3^ inches ileej). Anotlmr Htone utensil obtained at Sivideg'Ute is a disb t'-n- preparing [mint. This is 6 inches long by 2| wide, in external dinien.sions, with a trough- shaped bowl 4| by 1^ inches, in Avhich the paint has evidently been gi'ound by rubbing fioin end to end with a second stone. W'heii laid with the hollow side downward, the exterior is found to be carved lo represent some animal, probably a frog, inn constrained squatting alti- tude. Tiie carved side is rcpiesented in Kig. 12. Shells, especially those of the large mussel are frequently used as spoons and small dishes. A very hand.^ome disli, with an oval outliiu', is also made from part of the larger end of the horn of the mountain sheep. This is pi'obably softened by steaming, and forced into a symmetrical shape, then pared down thin and carved externally. Fig. 18 rci)resents one of these. The nu)untain sheej) horns, with those ol the mountain gu, t, ai'o obtained in barter with the Tshimsians and other Indians of ./. "ailand, neither of the animals occuring in the Queen Charlotte Tshi.i , Large serviceable ladles are also nxade from the mountain shee]) horns, the lower part of the horn being widened to form an ample bowl, and the upper straightened out to produce the handle. One of the.so of the b'lger sort measures from the end of the handle to the point of the bowl, round its convex surface, 2 feet 3J inches. The bowl itself is 8^ inches long by G inches wide, and 2\ deep. (Fig, G.) The spoons in ordinary- use are six or seven inches long with large flat bowls, made in a single piece from the horn of the mountain goat. The handle may lie carved to represent a hunuui or other form. An- other kind much prized and cared foi', is made by attaching a bowl of the usual form, made from a piece of mountain sheep or goat horn, to the wider exti-emity of an entire horn of the mountain goat b}- a cou])le of rivets. The goat horn, retaining its natuial cui-ve, is then elaborately carved with human or other ligures, according to the iasto of the maker. Such spoons inay be about a foot in length. (Fig. 27.) Knives of all sorts are now in use, but some ingenuity is shown in adapting old bhulcs to new handles, manufacturing knives from tiles, and so <»n. A knife used in cutting U]) fish is made by fixing one edge of a thin se, which is so arranged a;j lo meet and lie over the top of the cover when desired. Mats, of an oblong lorm, and plaited rather than woven, from strips jint?. of cedar bark, constitute a great part of the household i'urniture. Thoy varj^much in texture, and may be either of tho natural br(nvnish or yellowish colour or diversitied by black bands. One-handed adzes, with the blade fixed at an acute angle to the Adzes, handle, are very commoidy used. (Fig. 14.) The blade is often an old broad tile, shar])oned at the end. These, no doubt, replace those of stone of a former day. A few of the stone adze-heads are still to be Stone adzes, found about the houses, and are vor^' well shaped, and ditfertjnt in form iVom any 1 have elsewhere seen. One of these is repi'csented in tigure 13. The head somewhat resembles a jjoll pick in shape, being square in section near the front, but oblong towards the head owing to the increasing breadth, the thickness from side to side remaining the same or nearly so. Near the head, one of the smaller sides is carved into one or two saddle-like hollows to receive the ])ro])erly shaped oud of the handle, Avhich was no doubt lashed {irmly lo the sioiic with sinew (u- bark. The lateral surfaces are sometimes grooveii from the head downward for one-third or more of the total length. The dimensions of some specimens arc as followb : — No. 1.— Length, 1' 1". Breadth, 2". Thitkuess, 1 /^ inches. No. 2. — " VJ". » 2". " 1|". No. 3.— « 8" (about) " 2". '• 1-,%". The measurements arc merely averages, as the sides are not ,i.";ene- rally strictly parallel, but slope moi-e or less towards the ends. The material of these tools api)ears to be a matter of indiilerence, as 1 have seen them made of hard altered iu'iieous rocks like those so con\mon in the country, of a hard sandy argillite. and of the peculiar gi'eenish jade which the natives of some other j)arts of the j)rovince prize so highly. This latter matej'iul is not, according to the Haidas, found in the islands, but has occasionally been obtained in the course of trade. Large stone hammers are still in use for driving home wedges and Hammer?, similar operations. No stone arrow-heads were found, and it is pro- bable that these people, before they were acquainted with iron, used bone only for this purpose. r-fi 111 m i I ' p, y.. e-fl -^^ 144 K (II: )1.0GirAL SURVEY OK CANADA. hi Hi r ' Fur-seal spear. Spoars !in(l harjioons wore doubtless in t'oriner times made of bone, like Ibose found in the shell heaps of A'anooiiver Island. At the j)iesent day ii'on has been su!)stituted. A speeie»i of harpoon is usefl in the ehase ol (he fur seal. It is i;'onerally made by the Haidas thcm- sclves from an old flat tile. The extremity is sharpened to a blade-liko point, which is succeeded by a series of barbs on each side, sliai-ply thrown backward. The butt of the tile is L>ored through, and a loop oi' strong copper wiretixed to it so as to move freely. To this is attached a strong cord of ]ilaited sinew, to the extremity of which a bladdci- or float is altixod. When in use, the butt end of the iron liead is fixed in a socket in the extremity of a long, light cedar pole, but easil}' detaches itself when it is driven into the animal. The head of the harpoon generally iits into a w^oodon sheath made of two pieces tixed together with, bark lashing. Salmon siicnr. The head of the salmon spear consists of a sharp blude-like iron tip to the base of which two pointed pieces of horn are lashed, the lashing being thickly covered with spruce gum so as to otter no impediment to the whole entering the tish. The length of the blade, with the horn barbs, is about four inches. Between the pieces of horn fits the sharp- ened end of a piece of wood, 7^ inches long, which increases gradually in size till at its inner extremity it forms a flat leaf-shaped expansion, which tits into a hollow of similar form in the end of a long light cedar pole. The er.d of the pole is served with bark to prevent its splitting, and the iron-tipped bead is made fast to the intermediate wooden piece, and that to the end of the pole by strong strings. When plunged in the fish, the loose wooden piece no doubt ili'st comes out from the end of the pole, and with a slight increase of strain it comes away from the barbed head, Avhich thus practically remains fixed to the end of the pole by a foot or eighteen inches of cord. Fuh-hooks. '^^^^ ^i'^l' hook is made substantiall3' after the pattern general on tlu' Avest coast, but owing to the Avant of the j'ew, it has not the same graceful shape with that of the Ahts and Makah Indians. In its primi- tive form, among the llaidas, it consists either of a forked branch, of suitable size, or of two pieces of wood lashed together so as to make an acute angle Avith each other. To the ui)per ])iece, about the middle, is fixed the sti-ing for the suspension of the Avhole, to the free or outer end of theloAver jtiece a pointed bone is lashed so as to project obliquely backAvard, i-eaching to Avithin a short distance of the upper piece. The bone is now, however, generally replaced by an iron point, and in some cases the whole hook is fashioned out of a piece of thin ii-on rod, bent round ajid sharpened (Fig. 9). This hook is more particularly u.sed in lialibut fishing. A large sized one in wood (Fig. 10) measures 10 inclies in length, with a distance of five and a half inches betAveen the divergent QL'EEN CIIAHLOTTE ISLANDS, 145 B oiids of tlio two pit'fC's of Avliii'li it is mado. When in nso, a carved woiKlen float h fixed about a foot from the hooi<, and a short distance fiirllier iij) the line a hirge stone sinl" ; doplh, from front to hack, 47' H" ; hoi^lit of ridi^'o (»f i-(i(»f, l(!'(l"; height of eavi'M, 10' 8" ; ^irth of main vertical posts and h(»ri/,ontai heams, !>'!)" ; width of outer upright heams, 1 10"; thickness, ahout 5"; width of uppoi- slopini"; heams, 2' ""' thickness, 5"; width of carved jiost in front of house, ',V 10". A secfdid, and not unusind, stylo of houso has only n single frame, eonsistini<; of four vertical tiatlened posts at each end, supporting- slopiiiif heams. The outer sup])ortinj^ ]v;As are generuliy morticed out, and the outer ends of the sloping hoams passed through them. Stout beams flattened on the lower side, and generally throe in numhor on each side, are then made to rest on the slo])ing heams, and l>car nliovo them the cedar ])ljinking of the I'oof, liekL in place by stones heaped upon it, or by small beams laid over them above. In a passage quoted by Mr. J. f J. Swan in the Smithsonian Contri- Dcscrii'tion of butiouH to Knowledge, No. 2G7, Marehand (1791, see page 11 Ji.)chiind. * ioii by a tliK>r of the excavated ))ortioii of the iiuorior of the house frotn thai above the level of the groiiiul. 1 have not seen this ai-rangenieiit, however, in any of the hodses now existing on the islands. The ])eculiar carved pillars which have been generally ivt'errcd to as carved ))osts are broadly divided imo two classes, known as kcxcn and \(it. One of the forraer stands at the front of every hftiise, and tlirough the base, in in(»sl instances, the oval hole serving tis a dooi- ])asses. The latter are [»osts erected in memory of the dead. Doorwny poi-ts. The /,e\en are generally froni o(> to 5t) feet in height, with a width of three feet or more at the base, and tapering slightly upwards. They are hollowed behind in the mannei- of a ti'oiigh, to make them light enongh to besot and maintained in place without much ditliculty. These posts are generally covered with grotes»pie figures, closely groupetl together, from base to summit. They include the totem of the ownei', and a sti'iking similarity is often apj)arent between the. posts of a single village, i am unable to give the preei.se signification of the carving of the jiosts, if indeed it has any such, and the forms are illustrateil better by the ]>lates than by any desci'iplion. Human ligures, wearing hats of which the crowris run up in a cylin- drical form, and are marked round with constrictions at intervals, almost always occur, and either one such figure, or two or tliree fre- quentl}' surmount the end of the i)ost. Comparatively little variation from the general type is allowed in the ke\en, while in those posts erected in memory of .ho dead, and all 1 believe called \at, much greater diversity of design ol>tains. Tiiese posts are generally in the villages, standing on the narrow border of land between the houses and the beach, but in no determinate relation to the buildings. A common form c<)i>sists of a stout, plain, upright post, round in section, and generall_) tapering slightly downwards, with one side of the top flat- tened and a broad sign-board-liko s(piait' ot hewn cedar plaidis afiixed to it. This may be painted, decorated witii some raised design, or to it may be afHxed one of the much prized 'co))pers' which has behmged ti> the deceased. In other cases the uj)right post is carved more oi- less elaborately. Another form consists of a round, uj)right j)ost with a carvetl eagle at the summit. Still others, cai'ved only at the base, run up irito a long round post with incised rings at regular intervals. Two round posts are occasionally planted near together, with a large hori- zontal j)ai;ited slal) between them, or a massive beam, which appears in some instances to be excavated to liold the body. These memorial posts are generally less in height than the door posts. Stonomudel '^"''^ carved stoue models of posts nnule by the Skidegale Jlaidas of |)o?ts. Monumrntal ! f ' qi:ken charlotte islands. 14tt B less itli ji run Two liori- from tho rock of Slate Oliiiclc ( 'rook arc icoiier.ally c^ood reprosontations of the l,e\cn. (Several of those two fiijnrod l>y J. (r. Swan in tho pub- lication already refci-red to.) Plates, fluti's, and other carvinirs made froni the same stone, ihouifh evincinii: in thoii- manufacture ^ome ski!! and ingenuity, have heen produced merolv l>y tho demand for such things as curiosities by whites. The UHe of co])por. and to some extent the method of manufacturing Copper, it into various articles by hammering, has boon known from time im- memorial to most of the Indians of this ])art of the west c.)a'^t. The mcttd has ]n-obably been foi* the most ]iart (d)tainod in trade from the Indians of the Atna or Copper River in latitude HO" 1"'. it is proba- bly this familiarity with copper that has enabled the Ilaidas, with other tribes of the coast, so soon to acquii-e a proticiency in tlie art of working Bilver and iron in a rough way. Traditions and Folk-lore. Of stories connected with localities, or accountino- f.>r various cir- cumstances, there are no doubt very many among the TIaidas. Of these, such as I have hoard are given. The tumlamental narrative of the origin of man, and the beginning of the present state of afla'rs is the most im}>ortant of their myths. In all its minor details 1 believe it to be correct ; that is to sav, unaltoretl from its (U'iu;inal traditional form. Minor shades of moaiung may in some in.stances be iudetinite, as it was obtained through the medium of the Chinof>k, aided by what little Knglish my informant Mas master of. This, as related to mo. is as follows. — Very long ago there was a great flood by which all miMi and animals Creation myth, were destroyed, Avith the exception of a single raven. This creature was not, however, exactly an ordinary- bird, but — as with all animals in the old Indian stoi-ios — possessed the attributes of a liuman boing to a great extent. Ills coal of feathers, for instance, could be put on or taken off at will, like a garment. It is even related in one version of the stoiy that ho was boi-n of a woman who had no husband, and tliat she made bows and arrows for him. Wlu i old enough, with those lie killed birds, and of their skins she sowed •a2)e oi- blaidcet. The birds were the little snow-bird with black head and nock', the largo black and red, and tho Mexic-an woodpecke's. The name of this boing was Xf■lid■stl^s When the flood had gone down Xf-kil-stlds looked about, but could Flood, find neither companions nor a mate, and became very lonely. At last ho took a cockle (Cardluin Xutfulli) from the beach, and mai-rying it, he constantly continued to brood and think earnestly of his wish for a companion. By and bye in tho shell ho heard a very faint cry, like 150 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. h ^^ r }^i . that of a newly born child, which gradually became louder, and at last a little female child was seen, which growing by degrees larger and larger, was finally married by the raven, and from this union all the Indians were produced and the country peopled.* Origin of water. The people, however, had many wants, and as yet had neither fire, daylight, fresh water, or the oolachen rish.f These things were all in the possession of a great chief or deity called Setlin-Zd-Jash, who lived where the Nasse Eiver now is. ^yater was first obtained in the follow- ing manner by Xe-/dl-sttas. The chief had a daughter, and to her JVe-Idl-stlas covertly made love, and became her accepted lover, and visited her by night many times unknown to her father. The girl be- gan to love J}^e-ldl-stliis very much, and trust in him, which was what he desired ; and at length when he thought the time ripe, he said that he was very thirsty and wanted a drink of water. This the girl brought him in one of the closel}' woven baskets in common use. He drank only a little, however, and setting the basket down beside him he waited till the girl was asleep, when, (quickly donning his coat of feathers, and lifting the basket in his beak, he flew out by the opening made for the smoke in the top of the lodge. He was in great luiste, fearing to be followed by the people of the chief. A little water fell out here and a little there, causing the numerous rivers which are now found, but on the Ilaida country a few drops only, like rain fell, and s(^ it is that there are no Uu'ge streams there to this day. Origin of fire. Ne-kil-sltas next wished to obtain fire, which was also in the posses- sion of the same powerful being, or chief. He did not dare, however, to appear again in the chief's house, nor did the chief's daughter longer show him favour. Assuming, therefore, the form of a single needle-like leaf of the spruce tree, he floated on the water near the house, and when the girl — his former lover — came down to draw water, was lifted b^^ her in the vessel she used. The girl drinking the water, swallowed, without noticing it, the little leaf, and shortly afterwards became pregnant, and before long bore a child who was no other than the cunning Xe-kil-stlas, who had thus gained an entr}- into the lodge. Watching his opjwrtunity, he one day picked up a burning brand, ami flying out as before by the smoke-hole at the top of the lodge, carried it away and spread fire everywhere. One of the first places where he set fire, was near the noi-th end of Vancouver's Island, and that is the reason why so many of the trees there have black bark.;|; » In another form of tlic story, it ia said tluit N' -l,-il-':tli Uy imiiroKnntinK two live C(»ckle>. and keopintr tliem wurin, hatohcd out both ii uiun and a woiuun, who wero the progenitors of the human race. t As Roinetimcs related, it is taken fur granted th.it the sun always was, the moon alone being wanting. { Probably refers to the Doudlas fir, which here finds its northern limit op the coast, and is very often blackened by tires from the underbrush running u|) the thick, dry bark of its trunk. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 151 B All this time, liowover, the ])e()pIo wore without daylight, and it Avas Origin of light, next the object of uVe-lill-st/dS to obtain this for them. This time he tried still another jdun. lie pretended that he also had light, and con- tinued to assert it, though the chief denied the truth of his statement. lie, however, in some way made an object bearing a resemljlance to the moon, which, Avhile all the people were out fishing on the sea, in the perpetual night, he allowed to be partly seen from under his coat of featliors. It cast a faint glimmer across the water, which the people and SetUn-ki-Jash thought Avas caused hy a veritable moon. Disgustetl at finding that ho was not the sole possessor of light, and losing all conceit of his property, the great chief immediately placed the sun and moon where we now see them. One thing more much desired still remained in the possession of Origin of the Settin-ld-Jash ; this was the oolachen fish. Now the shag was a friend or companion of the chief, and had access to his property, including liis store of ooluchens. JVe-Iul-stlas contrived that the sea-gull and the shag should (quarrel, b}'- telling each that the other had spoken evil of him. At last he got them together, when, after an angry conversa- tion, they followed his advice and began to fight. Ne-kil-stlas knew that the shag had an oolachen in its stomach, and so urged the com- batants to fight harder, and to lie on their backs and strike out with their feet. This they did, and finally the shag threw up the oolachen, which Ne-kil-stlas immediately seized. Making a canoe from a rotten log, he smeared it and himself with the scales of the oolachen, and then coming at night near the great chief's lodge, said that he was very cold, and wished to come in and warm himself, as he had been making a great fishery of oolachens, Avliich he had left somewhere not far off. Setlin-kijash said this could n^-t be true as he only possessed the fish, l)ut JVe-kU-stlas invited the chief to look at his clothes and at his canoe. Finding both covered with oolachen scales, he became convinced that oolachens besides those which he had must exi-t, and again in disgust at finding he had not the monopoly, he tui-ned all the oolachens loose, saying, at the same time, that every year the}' would come in vast numbers and continue to show his liberalit\- and be a monument to him. This they have never failed to do since that time. This Ilaida story of the origin of things is substantially the sanie Resemblance with that which 1 have been told by Indians of the Tinneli stock m the myths, northern part of the interior of Jiritish Columbia. My suijuise on hearing it gradually unfolded as a Htiida myth was very great. It would be liazardous to theorize on the cause of this similarity of myths in triijes so distant and so dissimilar in habits, but it is certain that both its versions are derived from a common source not very remote. It may indeed be that the llaidas have adopted this story from the 152 B GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. h '■ It' : i ii 1 : J 'v 1 h i Origin of tobacco. Tradition at Laskeek. Tshimsians, for wlio.so lanLTnac;e, as wc h.'ivo already seen, thoy profV'ss great ailmirati(»n. I do not know of the existoiu'O of iho tstory ainoiii^ the latter people, but they pi-ohaMy have it in some form, as they are siipiwsed to be an oit'shoot of the threat Tinneh stoek of the interior country. As is always the ease with these aboriijjinal stories, a local colourinijf has been given to the narrative by the Haidas, and the story of the oolachen is an addition to that which I have heard from the Tinneh. It shows the great value set upon this tish that it siiould receive mention among the primary necessaries of existence, such as light, Avater, and tire. Ne-kil'Stlns of the Haidas is repi-esented in function and name by Us-tns of the Carrier Tinneh. Of Us-tasi\n almost endless series of grotesque and often disgusting adventures are related, and analogous tales ai-e repeated about JS^e-le said afterwards that he knew — or saw — tliat the whale so killed was the chief amonj;- these creatures, and that the Indian who had killed h'wn had now become chief in his stead. A i-emarkablo hill, colled 7'ow, stands on the shore between Eosei;^t<"yofthc hill io"\ Point and Masset. One side is a steep elitf, while the otlier slopes more gradually. On the uppej- part of the inlet above iMasset, is another hill al»oul the same size and also precipitous on one side, called ToiC'iis-t commander, is given. lie writes* under date of July 1st, 1787. — " At noon we saw a deep bay,t which bore north-cast by east ; the en- trance point to the northward, north-east by north ; and the eastermost * Op. cit. 1). 198. t Cloak Bay and entrance to Parry Passage. QL'EEN CIIAllI.OTTE ISLANDS. 155 B land south-etvst, about seven leai^ues distant. Our latitude was 54° 22" Enters Cloak N. ; and the iong-itudo 133° 50" W. During the afiernoon, we liad light ^'^^' variable winds, on which we stood to the northward, tor iear we should got to leeward of the bay in sight, and we were determined to nuike it if possible, as there was was every probability of meeting with inhabi- tants. During the night we had light variable airs in every direction, together with a heavy swell from the south-west; so that in the morn- ing of the 2nd we found our every ett'ort to reach the bay inetfectual ; liowever, a moderate breeze springing up at north-east, we stood in for the land close by the wind with our starboard tacks on board. At seven o'clock, to our very great joy, we saw several canoes full of Indians who appeared to have been out at sea, making toward us. On their coming up with the vessel, we found thena to be a fishing party ; but some of them wore excellent beaver* cloaks. '>^ -'= * -f-' The Indians we fell in with in the morning of the 2nd of July, did not seem inclined to dispose of their cloaks, though we endeavored to tempt them by exhibiting various articles of trade, such as toes, hat- chets, adzes, howels, tin kettles, pans, &c., their attention seemed entirely taken up with viewing the vessel, which they apparently did with max'ks of wonder and sui-prise. This we looked on as a good Opening of omen, and the event showed that for once we were not mistaken. After *'^'*' ^' their curiosity, in some measure, subsided, they began to trade, and we presently bought what cloaks and skins they had got, in exchange for toes,t Avhich they seemed to like very much. They made signs for us to go in towards the shore, and gave us to understand that we should find more inhabitants, and plenty of furs. By ten o'clock we were within a mile of the shore, and saw the village where these Indians dwelt right abreast of us ; it consisted of about six huts, which appeared to be built in a more regular form than any we had j-et seen, and the situation very pleasant, but the shore was rocky, and atfordod no place for us to anchor in. A bay now opened to the eastward, on which we hauled by the wind, which blew pretty fresh from the north- ward and eastward, and steered directly tor it. During this time several of the peojile whom we traded with in the morning had been on shore, probably to show their newly acquired bargains ; but on seeing us steer for the bay, they presently ])ushed after us, Joined by several other canoes. As we advancetl up the ba}', there appeared Adverse wind, to be an excellent harbour, well land-locked, about a league ahead; we * Beavirs donot occurin the Qiieen Oliarlotte Islands, but this term ai)i)ears to he used hero, as elsewhere in the narrative, for sea o'tor oh)aks. See p. 228, in statement on which it i? implied that no beaver skins were obtained. t Appears to be a species of adte or ohisel, as on p. 244, in connection with another part of the X. W. coast, a '' toe made of jasper the same as those used by the ^'' w Zealandcrs," is mentioned. 150 ij OEOLOOirAL SURVKY OP CANADA. (iroat nbund- iinco of skins 't had Monndings from ten to twoiily-fivo fathoms water, over a rocUy bottom, hut unhu-kily, tlio harbour trciKhHl riujlit in the wind, and at one o'chx'U the tide set so stronfjly against us, that we found it impossililu to make the harbour, as we lost gi'ound every board, on whieh wc hove the maintop-sail to the mast, in order to trade with the Indians. ■'A seene now commenced, which absolutely beggai's all description, and with which wo were so oveijoyed, that we could scarcely believe the evidence of our senses. There wore ton canoes about the ship, which contained, as nearly as 1 could estimate, 120 people; many of these brought most beautiful beaver cloaks, others excellent skins, and, in short, none came empty-handod, and the rapidity with which they sold them, was a circumstance additionally pleasing; they fairly quarrelled with each other about wliich whould sell his ch)ak first ; and some actually thi-cw their furs on board, if nobody was at hand to receive them ; but we took particular care to let none go from the vessel unpaid. Toes were almost the only article we bartered with on this occasion, and indeed they were taken so very eagerly, that there was not the least occasion to offer anything else. In less than half an hour we purchased near 300 beaver skins, of an excelloTit quality; a circumstance which greatl}' raised our spirits, and the more, as hoth the plenty of tine furs, and the avidity of the natives in parting with them, wei'C convincing proofs, that no traffic whatever had recently been carried on near this place, and cojisequently we might expect a continuation of this plentiful commerce. That thou ma^'est form some idea of the cloaks we pur;'hased here, I shall just observe, that they generally contain three good sea-otter skins, one of which is cut in two pieces, afterwai'ds they ., o neatly sewed together, so as to form a square, and are loosely tied about the shoulders with small leather strings, fastened on each side. " At three o'clock, oui- trade being entirely over, and the wind still against us, wo made sail, and stood out of the hay, intending to try again for the harbour in the morning. ^= '<' ■^' On the moi-niiig of the 3r(l, we had a fresh easterly breeze, and squally weather, with rain : but as we ajiproached the land it gi'ow calm; and at ten o'clock, iK'ing not moi-e than a mile distant from the shore, the tide set us strongly on a rocky point to the northward of the bay, on which the whaleI)oat and yawl were hoisted out and sent ahead, to tow the vessel clear of the rocks. exfmsted^'^'"'' ' ^'^^''^^"^' canoes came alongside, but we know them to be our friends whom we had traded with the day before, and found that they wei-e stripped of everything worth purchasing, which made us less anxious of getting into our proposed harbour, as there was a greater probability of our meeting with fresh supplies of fui-s to the eastward." I' ^ it-T'T^r Kir;;-;';-.- Ql'EKN CUAllLOTTK ISLANDS. 15T IJ ' JV Vf)f'l moderate and cloudy, with the wind from the smith-west. At sun-.->et, there being the a])pi'arance of ;ui iidet, whi(di hore Noulh-soiiJh-wesl, they stood across a dcej) Imy. wi.ei-e they had irregulai- soundings, from twenty-six to eleven fathoms water, at the distance of two leagues from the shore; the wind dying away Ihev (lro]»ped the sli'eam anchor, the two ]K)ints which Ibi-ni the bay, heAring from west, one quarter north, to north-east half east, distant from the shore four miles. Jt was now named .Mcliityre's Jjay,-'^ and lies in the latitude of 5:i° 58' North, and longitude 218° 0' Jiast. " 111 the morning of the 20th, the longd)oat was ilispatched to the head of the baj', to discover if there was any passage u]» the inlet; and the account received on her return was, that toward the head of the hay a bar run across, on which the long-boat got aground; but that within it there was the appearance of a large sound. Several canoes now came along-side the ship, and having purchased their stock of furs, Captain Douglas got under way to look into an inlet which he had ol)served the preceding year. At noon it was exceedingly haay, and no observation was made. " Early in the afternoon the long-boat was sent, well-manned and Interview with armed, to examine the inlet and sound for anchorage. At five o'clock they dropped the bowei* anchor in twent}'-tive fathoms water, about ibur miles from the shore, and two from a small barren rocky island, which happened to prove the residence of a chid", named Elakow- Conechaw, whom Cai>tain Douglas had seen oji the r'oast in his last voyage. He came immediately on board, and welcomed the arrival of the ship with a song, to which two hundred of his people formed a chorus of the most pleasing melody. AVheii the voices ceased, he paid Captain Douglas the com)>liment of exchanging names with him, after the manner of the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. "At seven in the morning (June 21st) they stood up the inlot, and ^.'ooa to Parry at nine came to, in eighteen fathoms water, where they moored the shipj- with the stream anchor. Through this channel, J which is formed by Charlotte's Islands, and an island that lies otf the west end * Now cullud Massct. I Parry Passage. t In Biuiu Bay. astwarc 158 n OEOLOCIICAL SLUVEY OF CANADA. Meditntcil treachery. Profuse apolo- gies!. of it, the tide wiis t'ouiid to run very rapid. Tlie |)iissjit,'e tnkv^ it^ course east and west altoul ten or twelve miles, and forms a eominii- nication with the open sea. It was now named C(»x's Ciiannol. \ d y soon after the shij) was moored, the lonij; -boat wa.s sent to sound in lii,' mid-channel, but no sounding's could be obtained with eighty fatlioms of lino; but near the roeks, on the starboard shore, they had twenty and thirty fathoms water. '' Havin<; been visited the ])rceedini'' niiiht l>y two eanojs, whicii liiy on their paddles, and dropped down with the tide, as was supposed, in cxi)cct{ition of Hndinii: us all asleep, they were desired to keep otl, imd finding themselves discovered thoy made hastily foi" the shore. As no orders had been given to fire at any bout, however suspicious Us appearance might be, those peo])le were suffei-ed to i-etrcat willioiit being interrupted. This night, however, there happened to be sevcial women on board, and thoy gave Captain Douglas to understand, liuit if he or his crew should fall asleep, all theii' lieads would be cut oil', :is a plan had been formed by u considerable number of the mitivos. as soon as the lights were out, to make an attempt on the ship. The gunner thci'eforo received his instructions, in consequence of this information, and soon after the lights were extinguished, on seeing a canoe coming out from among the rocks, ho gave the alarm, and tircil a gun over liei", which Avas accom])anied by ihe discharge of sevoial muskets, which ;ias tooi< the loni^-hoat and ran across iho chiinnol, to an ishxnd-!^ wliich hiy hotweon tlio ship and tiio viihiiii' ut'Tartanee, and invited the chief to l)e of the i)arty ; who, havinjLC seen hin\ pull u]) the wild parsley and eat it, he was ho attentive as to order u lartj;e ([lumtity of it, with some salmon, to he sent on hoard every iiiorninji;. " At six o'clock in the morninij; of the 2;}rd, tinding the ground toAnchorin bo had, they ran across the channel to a small harbour,f -which is '^"'' """ "-"^ named Beale's Harbour, on the Tartanee side ; and at ten dro|)ped anchor in nineteen fathoms water, about half a cable's lenijfth from the shore; the land locked all round, and the great wooden images of Tartanee, bore east, one (juarter north; the village on the opposite shore bearing south half west. This harbonr is in the latitude of 54° 18' North, and longitude 227° H' East. It was high-water there at the change, twenty minutes past midnight; and the tide flows from the westward, sixteen feet perpendicular. The night tides were higher by two feet than those of the day. "The two following days were employed in purchasing skins, and preparing to depart; but as all the stock of iron was expended, the}' wore nnder the necessity of cutting up the hatch-bars and chain plates. " On the morning of the 27th, as soon as the chief returned, who had gone on shore the preceding evening, to get afresh snpply of provisions. Captain Douglas gave orders to immoor, and a breeze springing up, at half-past nine they got under way, and steered through Cox's Channel, with several canoes in tow. At eleven, having got out of the strength Rrisk trade, of the tide, which runs very ra])id, they hove to, and a In-isk trade commenced with the natives, Avho bartered their skins for coats, jackets, trousers, pots, ketthts, fi-ying-pans, wash-hand basons, and whatever articles of similar nature could be procured, either from the otticers or from the men ; but they refused to take any niorc of the chain plates, as the ii'on of which they were made proved so brittle that it broke in their manufacturing of it. The loss of the iron and other articles of trade, which had been taken out of the ship by the Spaniai-ds, was now severely felt, as the natives carried back no small quantity of furs, which Captain Douglas had not the means of inirchasing. " This tribe is very numerous; and the village of Tartanee stands on Gardens, a ver}' fine spot of ground, round which was some appearance of culti- vation ; and in one place in particular it was evident that seed had been lately sown. In all probability Captain Cri-ay, in the sloop * Lucy Island of the chart. t Uenslung) or the covo to the east of it. KJO 11 , :ui is iiirro iiiitlli'i' of cKiijcr- turr, as the real fat'l coiiUl not hi- U'anii'd iVoin the natives. ■■'• i'Voiii iho same benevolent spirit ('a|)tain l)oiiL;'ias himselt phmted ^<.|lu. beans, and i^ave the natives a kiii>. till they hail hi'en taUen down to theeahin, and re,t!;aled with a pres ioii> entertainment.'' nccmint Sneh is the Hrst aecount of these Indians hy the Whites, 'riiey '"*^^" ' themselves also j)i'eserve some traditions of liio mectiiii;-. On a>kiiii; the Chief Kdensaw ( /^//J-.sa) if he knew the first vvliitc man whom llic llaidas had seen, he i^ave me, aftei- tiiinhini? a moment, the name ol J)oiiii'las, vei-y well pfon(nineod. Edeiisaw is now chief of the \ut:(i village, west of Virago Sound, the Kutaj village at Virago Soiintl. over whieh he formerly presided, heing nearly ahandoned for the new site. Ten years or more ago, his village was on the south side of I'airy Passage, hut this has now been altogether given up, and the liouses arc i-a]»idly eruinhling away. Thei'c is little doubt tliat the chief wiili whom Captain Douglas is said to have exchanged names was a pri'ilc- cessor of Edensaw's, bearing, as is customary, the same name. This, with the prefix Blakow is given as Coneehaw by Douglas, and it is due to the fact of the ceremonial exchange of names iiuving taken place, that that of Douglas has been lumded down to the ))re>eiit Kdensaw, while those of Dixon and his people have been forgotten. It may generally be observed, however, that the Indians are jjartieular in enquiring the names of whites who come among them, and it may be n(»ted in this connection that those near the mouth of tlu; IJella Coola liiver were able to give Sir Alexander McKenzie the name of Vancouver (j)ronounced hy them Macubah) as having lately ht'oii among them, when ho arrived at the coast after his celebrated journey by the Peaeo River. As we liave seen, however, Kdensaw was wi-ong in saying iliat Douglas was the fii-st Avhite man seen by the llaidas, as Dixon, itiil two years befoi-e had been at the same s])ot. [did nut know at tia' time \ asked Edensaw the question, wliether his reply was cori-ect or jiot ; and on my pressing him as to his knowledge, lie admitted that ho thought white men had appeared before Douglas, but he did not kn(»w * Aeonjecture rrobabiy incorrect, for as wo have seen, these people werestripi)edof si, wlicn ii„i,i,i,,,vnii„t> :i sliip iiiKlor sail appcaivd in tlu' vicinity of Xorrli Island. The 1',!,|'|,';^^,{*',;;';'J- jro- Indians \vt;ro all vt'r\' niiicli afraid, 'flic ( 'liiol' slmrcd in llie ironi'ial'"'""- Iciii', Imt Ibolin^' thai it was necessary lor the sake of his dignity to act a hold [)arl, ho dressed himself in all tho tinery W(jin in dancing, went out to MOrt In his canoe, and on a|»i>roachi!ig the ship performed a dance (prohahly the 8ka-ga). It would appear that tho idea was at tirsi vaguely entertained that the slop was a great hint of some kind, hiit on approaching it, liie men on hoard were seen, ainl likeneil, trom their dai'k (dothing and tlie general sonnd ai\d iinintrlligihU' eharaclor of'tlioir talk, to shags, — which sometimes indeed look almost human as they sit upon the rocks. It was ohsei'ved that one man would sj)eak whereupon all the others would immediately go aloft, till, something more hoing said, they would as rapidly descend. The Ilaidas i'urther relate various childish stories of the surprise of those Avho, in a fornu'r generation, tirst hecame ac(|uainted with nniny things with which they are now familiar, and profess to look upon these, their immeiliate pre- decessors, with much contempt. They say. for instance, that an uxe having been given to one it pleaseil Ids fancy on account of its metallic hrightnoss, which he likened to the skin of a silver salmon. He did not know its use, hut taking the handle out, hung it round his neck as an ornament. A biscuit being given to anothei-. he supjiosed it to ho made of wood, and being after some lime induced to eat it, tinds it altogether too diy. ^folasses, tasted for the tirst time by an adventur- ous Jlaida, pronounced very bad and Iiis friends warned against it. On questioning another llaida of the north pai't of the island, he also Piitoof .irrival aflirmed that the first whites had been seen near theXorth Island, anil adiled that they arrived at the season when almost all the ])eoplo were away at various rivers making their salmon lishery. This would l>e about tho month of Seittember, which agrees pretty well with FMeii- saw's account, and shows that the story above given cannot refer either to Douglas or Dixon, wdio arrived in .Tune and .luly. It agrees well with the date at which Bodega and Maur* lie must have passed this part ol' the coast on their way southward in 1775. but it appears improbable that they had any intercourse with the Kaidas at this time. I 'ilhhjes. It is here proposed to note the various villages now inhabited by the Ilaidas, or of which traces still remain, lieginning with those of the vicinity of North Island. It must be premised, however, that owing to the prevalent custom by which a village is spoken of by the hereditary family name of the chief, while it has besides a proper local name, and very frequently a Tshimsian equivalent for the latter by which it is 11 m.\-ui 1()2 TJ tlEOLOlICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. n-'i Villages of Parry Passage. Tartanoe of Douglas. Kew village. iilso ill some caf?os fjiniliarly called by the llaidas Iheinsolves, imicli ita. and has been a place of great iin])prtance. This, as already mentioned, seems to have been Edensaw's place of residence at the time di' Douglas' visit, and has probably been 'leserted for about ton years, k is nearly in the same state with tlie first mentioned, the houses. about twelve in number, and carved ))osts still standing, though com. pletely surrounded by raid< grass and young bushes, overgrowai with moss, and rapidly falling into deca}-. It is difficult to imagine on what account this village has been abandoned, unless from sheer lack of in- habitants, as it seems admirably situated for the purjwses of the natives. Many of the larger articles of property, including boxes, troughs, and other wooden vessels and stone mortars have not been removed from the houses. On the opposite side of Parry Passage, facing a narrow channel hv- tween Xorth Island and Lucy Island is the village which Douglas calls Tartanoe. It now consists of but six houses, small and of inferior con- struction; and a single carved post stands a little apart from the vil- lage, but is not very old. We were informed that anciently a very large village stood here, but did not ascertain whether its inhabitants were driven awa}' as a ccmsequencc of war -with other Ilaidas, whether they migrated, or whether the village was simply abandoned owing to the great decrease in numbers. The present village is said to have been built after the destruction of the earlier one, a statement borne out by the fact thai none of the old carved posts referred to by Douglas, ami no substantial houses are now seen. There would doubt le-reserved, had the spot been continuously inhabited. Douglas' account is somewhat confused, and has proliably been communicatod to Moares some time after the date of the events to which it relates; he mentions, however, no other chief but lilakow-Coneehaw, which would ;-ieem to show that the whole vicinity of Pai-vy Pas.sage Avas embraced in a single cliietlancy at the time of his visit. In the first bay east of Klas-Uwiin l*oint, between North Island nml the entrance oC Virago Sound, the Ya-tza, oi- Uiiil'e village, is sitiialed. Like niiiny of the Ilaida villages, its position is nuuli exposed, and ii must be difficult to land at it with strong northerly and nortli-ea>teriy winds. This village xiio is (juite new, having been (jccui)ied only a tew fi QUEEX CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. W^ n years. There are at present eight or ten rouglily built houses, with few and poorly carved posts. The people who formerly lived at the entrance to Virago Sound are abandoning that place for this, because, as was explained to nic by their "hief, Edensaw, they can get more trade here, as many Indians come across from the north. The travoi-se from Cape Kygane or 3Iuzon to Klas-kwun is about forty miles, and there is a rather prominent hill behind the point by which the canoe- mon doubtless direct their course. At the time of our visit, in August 1878, a great pai-t of the population of the northern portion of the (iucen Charlotte Islands was collected here preparatory to the erection of carved posts and giving away of property, for which the arrival of the Kai-ga-ni Ilaidas was waited, these people being unable to cross owing to the prevalent fog and rough weather. The village just within the narrow entrance to Virago Sound, from Kuni,' vi!i,»ge. which these people are removing, is called Kung, it has been a substan- tial and well-constructest with a conical roof was olisei-veil, none like which were elsewlu're seen. At the south end of tiie rt-it'-'fiis \'iIlago is a little hill, the IW B (iEOLOUICAL SURVFA' OF CANADA. ni ■Orifrin of the jiame Matsot Tcmporiir.v villiijre!'. Aliiiii'lonci'i villagu. hoxisos Oil ami beyond which appeal' to be considered as properly forming- a distinct viUaii^e, though generally included in the tbrmcr. The remaining ^Fas^et village (Ka-uuny) is smaller than tiiis one, and was not particularly examined. The principal chief of this vicinity is named We-he. ; he is an old man, ratlier stout, and witli nearly white hair and beard. I did not leai'u the precise extent of his authority, or whether, or in what degree, it may embraco the villages beyond that in Avhich he resides. The name Masset is of uncertain origin. Some of the natives when questioned about it, said that it has been given by the whites ; while others believe that it has been extended to the wliole inlet by the whites, but was the same with that of a small island which lies a little higher up the channel than the villages, and is said to be called Maast b}" the llaidas. It is unfortunate that so many places on this part oi' the west coast have been frequently renamed, owing to the ignorance of the names given by former explorers, but not widely published by them. The name Massetto occurs, evidently denoting the place now so called in Mr. Work's table given on a following page, and constructed between 1S;}(! and 1841. It is also found on the map illustrating Green- how's Northwest Coast of North America, dated 1840, as Massette, but is attached to a supposed village between the positions of Masset Inlet and Virago Sound. It is suspiciously like Maxaredo, u name given by Oaamano in 1793 ; but this, according to CTreenhow's identification, is the same place known to the American traders as Craft's Sound, which is identical with \'irago Sound of the modern charts; and this ident- ification appears also to be boine out by Vancouver's chart. A number of small houses, occupied during the summer, or salmon- fishing season, are scattered about the shores of the southern expansion of ^lassot Inlet. Of these, two are situated on the Ain River near its mouth, and several near the mouth of the Ya-koun. These summer houses are always small and slightly built compared with those of the permanent villages, and no attempt is made to erect any carved posts or symbols such as are approjn-iato at the main seat of the family. On the north shore of (Jraham Island, east ot Masset, and about a. mile and a half from Tow Hill, is a temporary village also belonging to the Masset Indians, and occupied during the dog-fish and halibut fishery. A few small potato gardens surround the houses, which are of the unpretentious character above described, and about half a do/on in number. Just oast of Tow Hill, and on low ground on the east bank of the lli-ellen River, a few much-decayed carved posts and b(>ams of former houses are still standing, where, according to the Indians, a lai-ge village formerly existed. Its disappearance is partly accounted for QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 105 V :ives wiiou asset Inlet 01" salmoii- bytlic fact that the sea haswuslied awajiniicli of the frrouiul on wliich it stood. As the subsoil is only sand and ,ii;ravel, this i.ught easily have occurred durinijfa single heavy storm coming from an unusual direction, or otiierwise under exceptional conditions, it is probably that called Xe-oon, and credited with tive houses in 3Ir. Works table given further on. Ne-coon or Nai-koon is, however, the name of the whole north-east point oi" the island. North of Cape Ball, or Kul-tow-sis, on the east coast of Graham Island, the ruins of still another village yet remain. It is said to have been populous, and is near some excellent halibut banks. It is doubtless that called A-se-giiaiuj in Mr. Work's list, and said to have nine houses. Tl-ell is the luime of a tract of country north of the entrance toLnrseoidhou.'e Skidogate, between Boulder Point and the mouth of a large stream twelve miles beyond it. About nine miles fnun Boulder Point, some posts are still standing, of an old house which must have been of great size and built of very lieavy tlmliors. This was erected by the Skide- irato chief of one or two genci-ations back, concerning whose great size and powers many stories are curi'cnt among the Ilaidas. The region came into the jwssession of Skidegate as the jii'operty of his wife, but Avas afterwards given by him to the Skedans oi that (la\' as ;t peacc-otfering for the wounding or killing of one of his (Skedans) women. The tract thus now belongs to Skedans, and is valued as u bcriy ground. Skit-eiqet, or Skideij-ato Vilksire as it is ordinai'ilv called, situated in Skidegate the inlet of the same name, and extendctl along the shore of a wide bay with sandy beach, is still one of the most jiopulous llaida villages, and has alwa^'S been a ])lace of great im])ortance. It lias sutfereil more than most places, however, irom the hal)it of its people in resorting to Victoria and other towns to the south. There are many unoecupied and ruinous lioiises, and fully one-half of those who still claim it as their residence are generally al)sent. The true name of the town is, I believe, J/yo-hai-ka, while ^kit-d-ijrt is that of the liereditaiy chief. It is ealled Kil-hai-oo by the Tshimsians. There are now standing in this village about twent^'-tive hoiisi-s, counting some ol' wliic!) the beams only remain, and several which are uninhabited. Of carved posts there are in all about rifty-lhree. making on an average two for each house, which was found also to be about the jtrojiortion in several other places. Nearly one-half of these are monumental ])osts or x-dt, it being rare to find more than a single door-post or kc-xcn for each house. Mr. Work assigns ibrtyeight houses to this place, which is not improbably i'orrect for the date to which he i-efers, as there are signs that the village lias formerly been much more extensive, and the Skidegate Haidas themselves never cease to dwell on the ileplorable decrease of the ^■9 166 B UEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA. Dcereiise in puimlatioiu Dixoirs ucoount. h ; , W ' populalion and ruin of the town. One intelligent man told me that Ik- could remember a time — which by his age could not have been more than thirty years ago — when there was not room to launch all the canoes of the village in a single row the whole length of the beach. when the people set out on one of their periodical trading expeditions to Port Simpson. The beach is about half a mile long, and there must have been from five to eight persons in each canoe. It is not improb- able that this is a somewhat, exaggerated statement, but it serves to show the idea of the natives themselves as to the extent of ihc diminution they have suffered. Dixon cruised northward along the east coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands about as far as Skidegate, in July, 1787, whence he turned southward for Nootka. He did not come to an anchor, but gives the following particulars, probably relating to the people of this place* : — " Early in the afternoon (July 29th) we saw several canoes coming from shore, and by three o'clock we had no less than eighteen along- side, containing more than 200 people, chiefly men; this was not only the greatest concourse of traders we had seen, but what rendei-ed the circumstance additiomlly pleasing was the quantity of excellent furs they brought us, our trj de now being equal, if not superior to what we had met with in Cloak Bay, both in the n xraber of skins, and the facility with which the natives traded, so thai all of us were busily employed, and our ai'ticles of traffic exhibited in the greatest variety ; toes, hatchets, bowels, tin kettles, pewter basons, brass pans, buckles, knives, rings, &c., being preferred by turns, according to the fancy of our numerous visitants. Amongst these traders was the old chief, whom we had seen on the other side of the islands, and who now appearing to be a person of the first consequence. Captain Dixon per- mitted him to come on board.f * >{c * q^ ^y^. pointing to the eastward and asking the old man whether we should meet with any furs there, he gave us to understand that it was a different nation from his, and that he did not even understand the language, but was always at Avar with them ; that he had killed great numbers and had many of them in his possession. " The old fellow seemed to take particular pleasure in relating these circumstances, and took uncommon pains to make us comprehend his meaning ; he closed his relation with advising us not to come near that part of the coast, for that the inhabitants would certainly destroy us. I endeavoured to learn how they disposed of the bodies of their Hi.s latitudes for the Houthem pait "f the islands • Possibly to those of Cunishewa Inlet, are inexact, as Vancouver remarks. t This man may have been the Skidegate chief, and was probably only on a visit when seen on the west eoast. Ho had no skins to sell at that time. QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 167 B ^avai'"0 Ohief of re- ° iimrkiible ap- enemics wlio wore slain in baltlo; and though T could not understand tho ehief clearly enough positively to assert, that they arc feasted on by tlio victors; yet there is too inuoh reason to fear, that this horrid custom is practised on this part of the coast ; [!] the heads are ahvaj's [•i-eservod as standing ti-ophies of victory. • Of all the Indians we had seen, this chief had the most aspect, and his whole appearance sutticiontly marked him as a pro2)or pearance! ' [itTson to lead a tribe of cannibals. Ills stature was above tho common size; his body spare and thin, and though at tii'st sight ho appeared lank and emaciated, yet his step was bold and tirm, and his limbs ajiparently strong and muscular; his eyes were large and goggling, and seemed ready to start out of their sockets; his forehead deeply wrinkled, not morel}' by age, but from a continual frown ; all this, joined to a long visage, hollow cheeks, high, elevated cheek bones, and a natural ferocity of temper, formed a countenance not easily behold without some degree of emotion. However, he proved very usoftd in conducting our traffic with his people, and the intelligence he gave us, and the methods he took to make himself understood, shewed him to ])0SHes8 a strong natural capacity. " Besides the large quantity of furs wo got from this party, (at least 350 skins) they brought several racoon cloaks, each cloak consisting of seven racoon skins, noatl}' sowed together ; the}' had also a good quantity of oil in bladders of various sizes, from a pint to near a gallon, which we purchased for rings and buttons. This oil appeared to be of a most excellent kind for the lamp, was perfectly sweet, and chiefly collected from the fat of animals." On the following day some of tho same people, in eight canoes, ^^^Jj?-'"'"'®'* again came alongside, but had vor}' few and inferior skins, their store being nearly exhausted. An attempt was niade to steal some of the skins already purchased, on which several shots were fired after tho offending canoe. On tho day following, while endeavonring to make southward with battling winds, the vessel was followed by a canoe containing fourteen people, who said that one of their companions had since died from a wound infiicted. No resentment was, howevoi-, shown toward the ship's company on that account, nor any fear exhi- bited on approaching tho ship. The old chief, who seems so much to have impressed the narrator, may very pi-obabl}- have been the .^ame before referred to, and described by tlio Haidas as of groat size and striking appearance It is unnecessary ^o say that no evidence of No cannibalism cannibalisni properly so called is found among those people, though as a part of the ceremony of certain religious rites tlesh was bitten from the naked arm; and in some cases it is said old people have been torn limb from limb and partly oaten, or pretended to be oaten, by several 1G8 B OEOLOraCAL SURVEY OV CANADA. h I* ' Ir It ' j^ New village of / tide. The name Cumshewa or Kumshewa is that of the hereut that most of I he time he kept so far from the shore as to render it imj)robahle tlmt moro than a small proportion of the able-hodied men of each trihc should visit the ship. The number of sea-otter skins obtained by Bixon during the cruise about the Queen Charlotte Islands was 1821, " many of them ver}- tine; other furs wc found in less variety here than in many other ])arts of the coast, the few racoons before mentioned, a few pine-martin, and some seals, being the only kinds we saw." I have been so fortunate as to obtain from Dr. W. F. Tolnue the subjoined estimates of the numbers of the llaida tribes. Those were made between the years 1S36 and 1841 by the late Mr. John Work, and, tliough not framed from personal acqimintanoe with the Haida country, are supposed to be based on the most reliable sources, willi which Mr. Work's long residence on the northern part of the coast ol British Columbia had made him familiar. It is likely that even at this date the population of the islands had somewhat decreased, but in all probability not very materially. On examining the table it will be found that the villages are grouped under the common names in some instances, and that it is at times difficult to recognise what place is referred to. I have, however, endeavoured to test the table in regard to those jdaces with which I am familiar, by comparing the relative imjiortance of the difterent localities at present with that assigned to them here, and otherwise, and am persuaded that the tigm*es are substantially correct, and probably rather an under than ai, over-estimate if taken to represent the population when first brought into contact with the whites. The total number of Ilaidas living in the Queen Charlotte Islands, as given by Mr. Work, is 6593. The whole number of the Haida nation, including the Kai-ga-ni Ilaidas, 8328. The number of people assigned to each house in the (Jueen Charlotte Islands, according to .Mr. AVork's table, is found to bo about thirteen, which, taking into consideration the size ot the houses and manner of living, is very moderate. I'l i:t'' K # QL'KEN ClIAllI-OTTE ISLANDH. it:! IJ EMtiiiate of the Xumber of Ifaida and Kni-ga-ni Indium, vuule bcticeen the years 183G and 1841, hi/ John IVur/;, Esq. Namk. Men. Women. 70 105 35 121 61 62 454 Boys. 44 102 42 11.". 54 59 Girl*. 52 112 41 107 61 63 430 71 69 604 42 28 189 69 105 74 107 90 139 52 1639 Houses, Yoii-iih-iio' 68 98 30 117 53 65 431 18 Click-ass 20 ^1 Qni-ii-hanloKS How-a-gmvn 8 27 ^ Shaw-a-irau 14 Chat-t'hec-nic 18 Totals 414 1 11 ' Lu-lan-na 80 70 630 24 34 191 80 115 S7 169 80 131 45 76 69 050 27 31 182 74 121 79 164 74 146 49 1742 69 72 589 29 27 170 63 98 68 105 85 145 50 20 Niirh-tasis 15 Mossetle IGO Ne-coon 5 A-sc-LTUaDe' 'J Skid-de-gates 48 Cum-sha-was 20 Skee-dans 30 Qucc-ah 20 Cloo 40 Kish-a-win 18 Kow-welth 35 Too 10 Totals 1736 1476 430 ■ m ■ll fP^^ 174 H OEOLOUICAI, SURVEY UF CANADA. rrocentnoimla- titm of the \> u Number of the Kui-ga-ni. Ultimate destiny of the Ilaida^. Tho prosont population of the northern ond of the Qiioon Ohuilottc Islands is roughly orttiniiited by Mr. Collison, tiio mlsHionary tlioro, (o numhor about HOO. In Hkidogato Inlet about 500 llaidas now remain, anil aro probably nearly equally divided between the two villages abovo described. Without referring in detail to the other villages, forwhioli no butticiently precise information was obtained, it is probable that the total population of the islands at the present time is from 1700 to 2000. In this estimate it is intended to include ail tho llaidas belonging to the islands, even those who live most of the time away from thoir native villages. From Skidegate Inlet and places south of it, a largo proportion of the natives are always absent, generally in Victoria. From the north end of the islands comparatively few go to Victoria, while a good many resort to Fort Wrangol and other northern settle- ments. The number of the people of the same stock in the southern part ot Alaska, who may be classed together as Kai-ga-ni, is estimated by Mi-. W. H. Dall at 300.* Notwithstanding the alarmingly rapid decrease of the Haida people during the century, it is not probable that the nation ."s fated to utter extinction. Like other tribes brought suddenly in contact with the whites, they will reach, if they have not already ai rived at, a certain critical point, having passed which they will continue to maintain their own, or even to grow in numbers. As already indicated, tho Haidas show a special aptitude in construction, carving, and other forms of handiwork ; and it should be the endeavour of those interested in thoir welfare to promote their education in the simpler mechanical arts, by the practice of which they may be able to earn an honcBl livelihood. When the fisheries of the coast ar'> properly developed, they will also be found of great service as fishermen; and were there a ready sale for cured fish, they might be taught so to improve their native methods as to ensure a marketable product. Saw-mills must soon spring u]) in the Queen Charlotte Islands to utilize their magni- ficent timber, and it is probable that in the course of years broad acres of fertile farms will extend where now unbroken forest stands, in such industries as these the natives may also doubtless be enlisted, but before they can be prosecuted justly the Indian title must be disposed of. This, in the case of these people, will bo a matter of considerable difficulty, for as we have already seen, they hold their lands not in any loose general way, but have the whole of the island^ divided and apportioned ofi" as the property of certain families, with * United States (Jeological and Oeograi.hical Survey of tho Rocky Mountain Region Contributions to Aorth Americnn Ethnology. Vol. I., p. 40. y pufehase the rights of each family would ho a very tetlioiis and expensive otio. The negotiations will need to bo eondiieted with skill and cai-e. At present, anyone re^juir- ing !i spot of gi'otind for any |)nri>oso, must make what hafgain ho can with the person to whom it belongs, and will probably have to pay doai'lv for it. iintaiii Rcsiuii ; U^h 1 .-.i *■■ I f ■ ' !•■; 1" ' ■ , 1 QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 177 B APPENDIX B. VOCABULARY OF THE HA IDA INDIANS OF THK QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. The following vocahiihiry. (lioiin-li by tm moans complete, may servo to represent the Haida lan<;itago for purjioses of linguistic comjiai'ison. Most of the won Is were ohtiiined by mysell' from intelligent natives, often through the medium ol the Chinook jargon, aided by di'awin<'-s oi- explanations, and in some eases by a slight knowledge of English in my informant. While generally correct, it may therefore in s(mie {■nses be in error, and in occasional instances phrases or short sentences Koe!u pretty obviously to have been given in plact; of single words. It is also to be observed that the Masset and Slsidegate dialects are not so diverse as they might appear to be on a slight examination of the lists, fo]' while in most cases the same wtird has been obtained in each locality, hut with some degree of modification, nol iidix^juently a (lirt'ero ^t 'vord with the same or similar meaning has been substituted, tliongti that sot d,o\ n in the other dialect may also be well uiulerstood. It may furtluu' be remarked tiiat the syllable tl or Id preiixed to many words, pro'sably in most cases represents the article, Init where i liave not been suie of this 1 have hesitated to j'eniove it. Tlu^ words iieibre being wi'itten down, were invariably repeated by myself till I succeeded in pronouncing them to the satisfaction of my instructoi*. The indelinite character of the pronunciation of r.n unwritten language is so marked, in most of those with which I have had to do, that in the absence of pei'sonal familiarity with the language, the use of a complete and highly elaborated system of orthogra[)liy is in practice almost im[)ossibl('. I have ihei-efore employed, with little iilieration, that suggested in No. 160 t)f the Smithsonian Miscellaneous Collections, entitled Instntrtions for Mesearch relative fo the Etlmolo(/ij 12 fi: 178 n OKOLOOIOAL SrRVKY OF CANADA. iind PltiMoijfi of Americti. Tlic \jiluo oi' \\w priiicipjil <'li;ii'jiclri - used, at'CDi'dini^ to llio schtMiU' a(l(»])tO(l, i;« .•i> follows: — (/ as loiiiJi; \\\ father, siiorl in (ierman hat (neui'ly ^s in I'aio-lish irl„u ;. r as loiiii; in then, shoi-l in met. i as lonir ill marine, short in pin. as ion;:: in note, short in /*'///(f' oi" F)'t'nc'h nint. 00 as Ionic in /w>/) pw/. i/ as in but. iii as in aiiile. oi as in oil. oir as ii\ Ao/'-. eu as .n pliane. y as in yow. X I'oprosonts the guttural sonn'l soniotiinos imliiatt'il l>y '.7/ ov (j/i. Tlu> lonii' value of vowels is (iistinji;uiHhe-i liy the nutcron. thus T/. . . tlie short value !>y the lireee, thus ,i, e. The words are arran^;e. ENOlilSH. Man Woman C)ld man Oil I woman Yoiinu; man Youi\j[«; woman Boy Girl Intant Widower Widow Bachelor (old) Mai linh >rl,(ti ). '( 1)1' (///. ill US U. I . ic /ntrndiiv 111 imlclilfi! ■(' 1)0011 ol M I). Dialect. ;! to. ■.00. MO. ■I ko" ff ■tlh. ihi-an'j. '-infj. Enullsh. lOyobrow rj>|)or e3'<'li«l Lowor oyolitl [vir-lobo Mar I'eifoi'Ution in ear Extoi'iial opening" ol' ear Nose l.'i(i<>;o of noso .Nostril Soptiim of noHo Porforatioii of soptimi of nose lOOK, (' Board . MoiUli SiviuEtiATE Dialect. I ppei' lip liowor li]) Tooth... 'I'oiiguo Saliva Palate Throat Chin Xook Atlam's ;t|)ple iiody Sliouldoi- •Slioi.. i-.,r-lilud<-' Bv"!ist of a inai) . . . Broast of H vomaii . .N i [.>'pL fikcta-how — Imng-akCil ... hunij-kira-ul . (jeu-tun i/(ii ... i/eu ijvu-liH i/i'u-katif ktrun kxcuii-oiiit . .. kirtoi-kdtlt... kirim-tun-fjni kvun-hH kan-t^c-dn ... skotc-re hef-li- kut-t^l-riin . .. OS illp .. B<"l>ly. . t an Loft arm tsmi-a tan>i-U.. .. kldn-a sh^uj-i-jc .. kii-iiin-zo() 'i-kiii hll ka-ile skul . . skui-ka-ul-ting-e kd.n-C'ict kJm^-e-Tif^-kan-ii ki-^ dit ftte Ar rru- pit Ann above eibtur. Jviiiow. .\rni holow oIIm)W Vi>i*t.... , ihwvtl 'aim of hsind ')aoI< o1 hand.. iiii kirut:. Thumb..,. l*oint of finj^' dtri-l-ka-lli niif'-i'ii id hie-tsi-ii (t.. Masset IUalect. ski (It 2. huny-kfil. huiuj-ktra-hl. (jeu-KtCti. (jeu. (jeu-siiU-ktl. (jni-ht'L kictm. ku-un-tl-kdn. kicun-zool. kirun-ihl-tatz. kirun-khtl-d. tl-tZHt. kdi-oiv-d. hat- id. kiroose-odll. ku-uot-had-(/GO-se. fs'ng. tdng-it. kUiii or tltd. s'lny-itz. kii-i/in-Xoo. tl-kiii. /til. f. Fourth toe. T oe-nail 00(1 Bl Vein or arteiv on Heart .. Kiihu'V Lunsr ■• er Liv Stomach 10 R Pul> SkIDKGATK DlAI-ECT, ei'tei:ine tine ^1 Foot Interstine print sfl-kiro-iJa . sfl-litnoi ... .stl-t(W,-'-ri' stl-he-ia-si: stl-hul /;i(il til kirul-lo hirul-oo-lai-nin (!(' I;inil-ka-run . klatl-koir — sta-kn-ul-thi(j- tarn-art' >ifa-oona sini f/'' fituk-n-nm sta-kirai. . . .-hoo-irJii tl-kmd ke- tzi. he-iCi tsoo-i. . stil-sil. lan-e Masskt Dialect. stlai-oh-se. st/a-nf. .^tla-kiriiH. stl-tum ai. >iil<>ol. kiinil-o. frl. kirul-o-ktit:. kuul-o-hill. kiatl-koir. stai-kirool-tiiKj-ai. tum-ai. iy transliteration. — E.NGLlSIl. Masset Dialect. Wife said by husband \ c/m t>r s/iu. Husband said by wife \ tla-luii QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 181 B Enolish. Son said l)y father FutlicM' said by son Son said b}' mother Motlier said by son daughter said by father . K.'ither said by dauglitor. Daughter said l»y mother Mothei- said by daughter. Vniingor sister said by ehU^r brother Illder brother said by younger sister... \ Hunger bi'otber said by elder brother i^]l(l r brodier said by younger brotiier Younger brother said by eider sister . .. rjK er sister said by younger brotl ler Younger sister said by elder lister Elder sister said b\' younger sistei- Kklcr son's wife said by father Husband's tather said l)y vife KIder son's wife said by mother Husband's mothei- said by vife KIder dauii'htci 's huslumd suivl bv father, Wife's fat I lor sai( 1 by husi and , Elder daughter's husband said by mother Wife's mother said by husband >'ounger son's Avife said by father fliisband's father saitl by wife Younger son's wife said by mother Husband's mother said by wife Younger daughter's husband said by father Wife's father said by husband Youngwr daughter's husband said by mother Masset Dialect. keet. hi mng. kill. away. keet. kali id. keet. oiratj. chnS'tuon. da-i. toon. quia. toon. clu(s-i. toon-ay. t/ni-ay. keef-cha. tlah-al-haung. kcet-quia-cha. tlaf)(ll-oir. keet (/uia-tlahal. cha-haht. keet-quia-tlahal. cha-oir. keet-toon-cha. tlahal-hamuj. keet-toon-cha. ov-tlah-ai. [hal. ii-ch. ^■^tun. Iddul-hidt. kai-oir. hid-kat. tsan-oi> dan. tSiOi (UK kiiid-hlt'iir. k('jt-/iid. tiket. slan. kuii(/-(i'. S'O-sta-rai. skoddsd-taduH'/. Xit-iL hoirdtdiico-de. 8ldd-ze. xatl. ki-to. xit-ask(j. skutl-^od-zung. Ql KKN ClIAHLOTTK ISLANDS. 183 B KN(ir,isir. \ a I IOC |)i'iim isli-lino Fisli-iict ish-iiooK Pipe, of stone l'i[H'-stem. of wood * 'lip I.ai'uo woodoii (lisl I5(n\; Sloiic inorlur S'on e i)C's(lo iMiv-dnll , Iforii l:icor (hliudv), .rniine SKIDKdATK DtAI-ECT Idoo. kow-xd. [/in. tl-rliul. sk(vh-nnt-l(t. /i-irai-s/i-(it/.s-oti\ xkadl-ho. Icdi-fhi. ka-nit-o. ta-ro. id-ro-tsim hl-k I- (U-(/e. skood-s/a-f/iil. kitl- ho-ta. sk xow oir. skotr-gi-cine. skuir-kal. ,sko//--ko-na. ski/ir-skwx'. k(ifl-ka-t/(i, kii-tuL-o. fa-ka-do. hiil-kira-hi.<-ta. ki-ra. hai-da-kirid-ra. ki-(i-hH/.fi-a-(/oo-d<(. ;/lt. sld-shd. xkU'/imij. tmiiiuj. hi'iots. turn. X"^s-kot>. ha. kat. kllk-, 'io.ii (mountain) ! imit. M oiise ( woo( d; si-aui/. Mole ka-tjiin. Marten : koo-lKvi. Ottei' I sli-i/oo. Sea-ottor I koh. owh-te. t. chi'(jonts-ri(l. dooU-a-da. koo-da. het-lf: tan> Mosquito Spider Bud of tree Leaf Branch 13 Skidegate Dialect. tai-e. tii-hlt, s/ca-r/i. ta-run. ta-tlut. ha-hut-ta-ow-tja. i-tiung. m. sa-ow. skill. skill-te-ga. stai-dai. ska-gai. Icai-ye and kla-ma. skial. ka-ga. s/cow. kill. ta-haow. shun. kits-ha-lang. A'O-stan. hoo-ga. noo. k'l-un-ga. kai-oots-ai-ool-ta. ska-um. xi-tra. Xin-e-he-fli. kin-e-hung-e. Xi-in. xin-i-hia. hun-i-luri. tl-koon-a. stai. hull. kow. XI. hah-ko-kled-a. koot-ls-ka-hoio. skCil. skai. kwul-hai-gwun. tshl-kul-di-gwa. kicot-ze-a. skans-a-skin-an. hil. Mas. 186 B OEOLOOICAL SURVEY OP CANADA. English. ■f t ! > ■ Outside bark Inner " Trunk Stump Boot ]\lain roots Jioaves c)l' spruce Clouds Sky Ilori/on Sun Moon Half moon Crescent moon. Stars Shooting star . . Aurora Eainl)ow Foii' Fj'ost , Snow Hail . Ice.... Icicle Water Image reflected by water., Foam Wave Current , Eddy , Puiin Thunder Lightning Wind....: North wind North-east wind , East wind Southeast wind AVest w i nd North-west wi nd Whirlwind The ground Dust , Mud . . Sand .. Salt.... Stone . North Skidegate Dialect, hifs-gun-tU. l-l-na, h>rul-re. IdirKj-a. shoo6-run-d