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' •;.■-'. .» ^»> c > virv«,v(B»'V..'«' \m J5J i!\^ ^ >^ ^ ^ ':k t N i > ^ 1^ ^ §^ I' ■^ :-fH* ^> 1 ^^ t. wi.i ^i:,i !>.•«:**; r u ^ V X ^ x\. ^ 5*. -.^ ^ ^ ^ m ■ ~ ■. -fi.**.^** n a w ^ u G &■ '^ 6 M is »5 fi I /f i f -..* .-, i: ». . ^.>»>>l,'*»>,V-K // " > V) / / $\ \.*iX; ■i'*.- •. .5 r VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, CAPTAIN PARRT, .1 ^N/> OTHERS. • '-■«■ - ■ •■* ,x-'-J>- i»*M»| r|«'t ••fl .;,'}iiiiviiv< The narrative presented in the succeeding pages embraces only those incidents which will lead the reader to appreciate more than ever the blessings he enjoys, under the protec tion of just laws, mildly and equitably administered. It is said that history is philosophy teaching by example : when the reader is introduced to a l^nowledge, that there are many of his fellow men who have a very limited supply even of the necessaries of life, with the almost entire priva- tion of those social and other comforts which are placed within the grasp of almost every individual of the British empire, how will he be led to be satisfied in the station of life assigned him ; and instead of murmuring that he has not all he desires, he will feel sentiments of gratitude that his comforts are so numerous as they are. To draw such conclusions is the proper duty of the reader ; and then only education becomes useful to society, when the information P. V. I B l^^:m%,--..^, ... "—'■*>■■ ■■>«/'-■' ^^— - >*frjj. ■v.v.* ■i \f' ¥ t I'l*' 2 parry's voyage to It obtains iafluenoes and regulates the will and affections, and produces order and propriety of conduct. The idea of a passage to the East Indies hy the North Pole was suggested as early as the year 1527, by Robert Thorne^ meroliant, of Bristol, as appears from two papers preserved by Hackluit ; the one addressed to king Henry VIII ; the other to Dr. Ley, the king's ambassador to Charles V. In that addressed to the king he says, " I know it to be my bounden duty to manifest this secret to your grace, which hitherto, I suppose, has been hid.** I'bis secret appears to be the honour and advantage which would be derived from the discovery of a passage by the North Pole. He represents in the strongest terms the glory ivhich the kings of Spain and Portugal had obtained by their discoveries East and West, and exhorts the king to emulate their fame by undertaking discoveries towards the North. He states in a very masterly style the reputa- tion that must attend the attempt, and the great benefits likely to accrue to the subjects of this country, from their advantageous situation, should it bo crowned with success, which, he observes, seems to make the exploring this, the only hitherto undiscovered part, the king's peculiar duty. To remove any otyeotion to the undertaking which might be drawn firom the supposed danger, he insists upon " the great advantages of constant day-light in seas, that men say, without great danger, difficulty, and peril, yea, rather, it is impossible to pass ; for they being past this little way which they named so dangerous (which may be two or three leagues before they come to the Pole, and as much more after they pass the Pole), it is clear from thenceforth the seas aud lands are as temperate as 'in tliese parts'*. .. , . In ihe paper addressed to Dr. Ley he enters more mi- nutely into the advantages and practicability of the under- taking. Amongst many other arguments to prove the Talue of the discovery, he urges, that by sailing northward and passing the Pole, the navigation from England to the ' THB NORTH POLB. « Spioe Islands would be shorter, by more than two (hou- sand leagues, than either frum Spain by the straits of Ma- gellan, or Portugal by tbe Cape of Good Hope ; and to shew the likelihood of success in the enterprise he says, it i« as probable that the cosmog^pheri should be mistaken in the opinion they entertain of the polar regions being impassa- ble from extreme cold, as, it has been found, they were, in supposing the countries under the line to be uninhabitable from excessive heat. With all the spirit of a roan convinced of the glory to be gained, and the probability of success in the undertaking, he adds, — " God knowetb, that though by it I should have no great interest, yet I have had, and still have, no little mind of this business ; so tliat if I had faculty to my will, it should be the first thing that I would understand, even to attempt, if our seas northward be na- vigable to the Pole or no." Notwithstanding the many good arguments, with which he supported his proposition, and the offer of his own services, it does not appear that he prevailed so far us to procure an attempt to be made. No voyage appears, indeed, to have been undertaken Co explore the polar seas, till the year 1007, when ** Henry Hudson was set forth, at the charge of oertain worshipful merchants of London, to discover a passage by the North Pole to Japan and China." He sailed from Gravesend on the first of May, in a ship called the Hopewell, having with him ten men and a boy. Great pains have been taken to find his original journal, as well as those of some others of the adventurers who followed him ; but without success : the only account is an imperfect abridgement in Purcbas, by which it is not possible to lay down bis track } horn which, however, are drawn the following particulars :->He fell in with the land to the westward in latitude 73", on the twenty-first of June, which he named Hold>with>Hope. The twenty-seventh, he fell in with Spitsbergen, and met with much ice ; he got to SO** 23', which was the northern- most latitude he observed iu. Giving an account of tbe B 2 PARRY** VOYAGE TO li M. oonoluaion of his disooTeries, he lays, " On the lixteentn of August 1 taw land, by reason of tho clearneas of the wea- thcr, stretching far into 83°, and, by the bowing and shew- ing of the sl(y, much farther; which when 1 first saw, I ho|)ed to have had a free sea between the land and the ice, nnd meant to haTe compassed this land by the north ; but now finding it was impossible, by means of the obundance of ice compassing us about by tho north, and joining to the land; and seeing Qod did bless us with a wind, we re- turned, bearing up the helm." He afterwards adds : " And this I can assure at this present, tliat between 78|°, and 82', by this way there is no passage."— In consequence of this opinion, he was the next year employed on the north- east discovery. In March 1600, old style, " A voyage was set forth by the right worshipful Sir Thomas Smith, and the rest of the Muscovy Company, to Cherry Island, and for a further discovery to be made toward the North Pole, for the likeli- hood of a trade or passage that way, in the ship called the Amity, of burthen seventy tons, in which Jonas Poole was master, having fourteen men and one boy.*' — He weighed from Blackwall, March the first, old style ; nnd after great severity of weather, and much difficulty from the ice, he made the south part of Spitsbergen on the I6th of May. He sailed along and sounded the coast, giving names to several places, and making many very accurate observations. On the Seth, being near Fair Foreland, he sent his mate on shore ;-<-and in speaking of this at his return, says, " More- over, I was certified that all the ponds and lakes were un- froian, they being fresh water ; which putteth me in hope of a mild summer here, after so sharp a beginning as I have had ; and my opinion is such, and I assure myself it is so, that a passsage may be as soon attained this way by the Pole, as any unknown way whatsoever, by reason the sun doth give a great heat in this climate, and the ice (I mean TUB NORTH POL! 1^ ft that freeieth here) ii notliiog lo liug«i as 1 liaveMcn io He vetity- throe degrees." 'I'hese hopes, howeTer, he was soon obliged to relinquish for that year, having twic« attempted in vain to get beyond 70" .50'. On the 31st of June, he stood to the southward, to ;rct a loading of fish, and arrived in London the last of August. He was employed the following year (1011) in a small bark called the Elizabeth, of 50 tuns. The instruo- tiuns for this voyage, which may be found at length in Pur- cliiis, are excellently drawn up : they direct him, after having attended the fishery for some time, to attempt dis- coveries to the North Pole as long as the season will permit ; with a discretionary clause, to act in unforeseen cases as shall appear to him most for the advancement of the disco- very, and interest of his employers. This however proved an unfortunate voyage : for having staid in Cross Road till the 16th of June, on account of the bad weather, and great quantity of ice, he sailed from thence on that day, and steered WbN fourteen leagues, where he found a bank of ice : be returned to Cross Road ; from whence when he sailed he found the ice to lie close to the land about the lati- tude uf 80°, and that it was impossible to pass that way ; and the strong tides making it dangerous to deal with the ice, he determined to stand along it to the southward, to try if be could find the sea more open that way, and so get to the westward, and proceed on bis voyage. He found the ice to lie nearest SW and SWbS and ran along it about an hundred and twenty leagues. He had no ground aear the ice at 160, 180, or 200 fathoms : per- ceiving the ice still to trend to the southward, he deter- mined to return to Spitsbergen for the fishery, where he lost his ship. In the year 1614, another voyage was undertaken, iu which Baffin and Fotherby were employed. With much difficulty, and after repeated attempts in vain with the ship, they got with their boats to the firm ice, which joined to I I \ I f - < r 6 PARRV't VOTAGB TO Red-DMoh ; they walked over tlie ice, to timt place, in hopes of iiiidini; whale-fins, &o. in which llioy were dis- appointed. Fethcrby adds, in his account : *' Thus, as we could not find what we desired to see, so did we behold that which we wished had not been there to be seen ; which was great abundance of ice, that lay close to tlie shore, and also ofT at sea ss far as we could discern. On the eleventh of August they sailed from Fair- Heaven, tutry if the ice would let them pass to the northward, or north-eastward ; they steered from Cape Barren, or Vogel >^ang, NEbE eight leagues, where they met with thu ice, which lay EbS and WbN. The fifteenth of August tliey saw ice frozen in the sea of above the thiclinuss of on half- crown. Fotherby was again fitted out tlie next year in a pinnace of twenty tons, called the Richard, with ten men. In this voyage he wac prevented by the ice from getting farther than in his last. He refers to a chart, in wliioh he had traced the ship's course on every traverse, to shew how far the state of that sea was discovered between 80 and 71« of la- titude, and fer 36° of longitude from Haokluit*s headland. He concludes the account of bib voyage in the following manner : ** Now if any demand my opinion concerning hope of a passage to be found in those seas, I answer, that it is true, that I both hoped and much desired to have passed further than I did, but was hindered with ice ; wherein although I have not attained my desire, yet forasmuch as it appears not yet to the contrary, but that there is a spacious sea betwixt Groinland and king James his new land [Spitsbergen] al- though much pestered with ice ; I will not seem to dissuade this worshipful company from the yearly adventuring of ISO or 200 pounds at the most, till some further discovery be made of the said seas and land adjacent*' It appears that tlie Russia company, either satisfied with bis endeavours and despairing of further success, or tired of the expence never employed any more ships on this discovery. THB NORTH rOLl. T A* these yoyngn were fitted out bj privnte adfmtarera, for the double purpose of discovery and present .uUantage ; it may be supposed ttiat the atl-ntion uf till navigators WM in a measure diverted from pursuing the more remote and less proiitable object of the two, with all the attention that could have been wished. Injustice, however, to the me- mory of these men, it may be observed, that they ofipoar to have enoountured dangers, which at that period must havu been particularly alarming from their novelty^ with the greatest fortitude and perseverance; as well as to have shewn a degree of diligence and skill, not only In the ordi- nary and practical, but more soientiflc parts of their pro- fession, which might have done honour to modern seamen, with all their advantages of later improvements. This great point of geography, perhaps the most impor- tant in its consequences to a commercial nation and mari- time power, but the only one which had never yet been tho object of royal attention, was suffered to remain without further iovestigmtion, from the year 1615 till 1773, when tho Earl of Sandwich, in consequence of an application which had been made to him by the Royal Society, laid before hia Migesty about the beginning of February, a proposal for an expedition to try how far navigation was practicable to- wards the North Pole : which his Majesty was pleased to direct should be immediately undertaken, with every en- couragement that could countenance xuch an enterprize, and every assistance that could contribute to its success. Gapt. Constantino John Phipps, afterwards Earl of Mulgrave, had the honour of being entrusted with the con- duct of this undertaking. The nature of the voyage re- quiring particular care in the choice and equipment of the ships, the Racehorse and Carcass bombs were fixed upon as the strongest, and therefore properest for the purpose. The probability that such an expedition could not be carried on withont meeting with much ice, made some additional strengthening necessary : they were therefore immediately parry's voyage to Aif \ I, taken into dock, and fitted in the moat complete manner for the lervioe. "The complement for the Racehorse was Axed at ninety men, and the ordinary establishment de- parted from, by appointing an additional number of oifi- eers, and entering effective men instead of the usual num- ber of boys. In giving an account of this voyage, Capt. Phipps says — *' I was allowed to recommend the officers ; and was very happy to find, during the course of the voyage, by the great assistance I received on many occasions Arora their abi- lities and experience, that I had not been mistaken in the characters of those upon whom so much de[>ended in the performance of this service. Two masters of Greenland- men were employed as pilots for each ship. The Race- horse was also furnished with the new chain-pumps made by Mr. Cole according to Capt. Bentinck's improvements, which were found to answer perfectly well. We also made use of Dr. Irving's apparatus for distilling fresh water from the sea, with the grieatest success. Some small but useful jilterations, were made in the species of provisions usually supplied in the navy ; an additional quantity of spirits was allowed for each ship, to be issued at the discretion of the commanders, when extraordinary fatigue or severity of the weather might make it expedient. A quantity of wine was also allotted for the use of the sick. Additional clothing, adapted to that rigour of climate, which from the relations of former navigators we were taught to expect, was ordered to be put on board, to be given to the seamen when we ar- rived in the high latitudes. It was foreseen that one or both of the ships might be sacrificed in the prosecution of this undertaking ; the boats for each ship were therefore calculated in number and size, to be fit, on any emergency, to transport the whole crew. In short, every thing which could tend to promote the success of the undertaking, or contribute to the security, health, and convenience of the ship's companies, were granted. i, .-. . ■ .-i ... . THR NORTH POLB. f On the 10th of Aiiril, 1773, Capt. Phipps reoeived bb commission for the Uacchorse, wilh an order (o get her fitted with the greatest dispatch Tor a voyage of discovery towards the North Pole, and to proceed to tlie Nore for furtlier orders. On tlie 37th, he anchored at the Norc, and was joined by Capt. Lutwidge, in the Carcase, on the 30th : lier equipment was to have been in all respects the same as that of the Racehorse, but wiien fitted, Capt. Lutwidge finding her too deep in the water to proceed to sea wiih safety, obtained leave of tlie Admiralty to put six guns on shore, to reduce the complement of men, and return a quantity of provisions proportionable to that reduction. On the 4th of June they sailed, and on the 20th began to make use of Dr. Irving's apparatus for distilling fteah water from the sea : repeated trials gave us the most satisfactory proof of its utility ■: the water produced from it was perfectly free from salt, and wholesome, being used for boiling the ship's provisions ; which convenience would alone be a desirable object in all voyages, independent of the benefit of so use- ful a resource in case of distress for water. The quantity produced every day varied from accidental circumstances, but was generally from thirty- four to forty gallons, without any great addition of fuel. Twice indeed the quantity produced was only twenty-three gallons on each distilla- tion ; this amounts to more than a quart for each man, which, though not a plentiful allowance, is much more than what is necessary for subsistence. In cases of real ne- cessity there was no reason to doubt that n much greater quantity might be produced without an inconvenient ex- pence ot fuel. After many ineffectual attempts up to the first of Augrist to proceed, being in latitude 80° 31 , and longitude 18" 48, the captain in his journal snys, " The ice pressed in fast.* tluM-c was not now the smallest opening : the two ship. w<*re within less than two lengths of each other, separated P. V. 1 P 10 PARfty'S VOYAOn TO i , ¥ ii by ice, nnd neither having room to turn. The ice which dad been itll flat ttie day before, and almost level with the water's edge, was now in many places forced higher than the itinf .1 yard, by the pieces squeezitig tb^ether, and there seemed to be no probability of getting the ships out again, writhout a sirong east, or north-east wind. There was not the smallest appearance of open Water, except a little to- wards the west point of the north-east land. The seven islands and north-east land, with the frozen sea, formed almost a bason, leaving but about four points opening for the ice to drift out, in case of a change of wind. On the drd, the weather was very fine, clear, and calm ; we perceived that the ships had been driven far to the eastward ; the ice was much closer than before, and the passage by which we had come in closed up, no open water being in sight, either in that- or any other quarter. The pilots having expressed a wish to get if possible farther out, the ship's companies were set to work at five in the morning, to cut a passage through the ice, and warp through the small openings to the westward. We found the ice very deep, having sawed sometimes through pieces twelve feet thick. This labour was continued the whole day, but without any success ; our utmost efforts not having moved the ships above three hundred yards to (he westward through the ice, at the same time that they hud been ilriven (together with the ice itself, to which tlity were fast) far to the NE and eastward, by the current ; which luid also forced the loose ice from the westward, between the island, where it became packed, and as tirin as the main body. On the 'Sth, the probability of getting the ships out ap- pearing every hour less, and the season being already far advanced, some speedy resolution became necessary as to the steps to be taken for the preservation of the people As th« situation of the ships prevented us from seeing the state o.'/^«!ice 3o the westward, by which our future proceedings niU»< in a great measure be determined, 1 .sent Mr. Wnldco, . I t '"\ ■^-um: THE NORTH POLE. 11 one of tliio midsbipineii, with (wo pi'ot!*, to an Ultinil about twelve nniles off: on his return they stated that the ice, though dlose all about us, was open to the westward round the point by which we came in. They also told me, that when upon the island they had the wind very fresh to the eastward, though where the ships lay it had been almost calm all day. This circumstance considerably lessened the hopes we had hitherto entertained of the immediate effect of an easterly wind in clearing the bay. We had but one al- ternative ; either patiently to wait the event of the weather upon the ships, in hopes of getting them out, or to betake ourselves to the boats. The ships had driven into shoal water, having but fourteen fathoms. Should they, or the ice to which they were fast, take the ground, they must be in- evitably lost, and probably overset. The hopes of getting the ships out was not hastily to be relinquished, nor obsti- nately a'lhered to, till all other means of retreat were cut off. Having no harbour to lodge them in, it would be im- possible to winter them here, with any probability of their being again serviceable ; our provisions would be very i-hort for such an undertaking, were it otherwise feasible ; and sup- posing, what appeared impossible, that we could get to the nearest rocks, and make some conveniences for wintering, being now in an unfrequented part, where ships never even attempt to come, we should have the same difficulties to encounter the next year, without the same resources ; the remains of the ships company, in all probability, not in health ; no provisions, and the sea not so open, this year having certainly been uncommonly clear. Indeed it could not have been expected that more than a very small part should survive the hardships of such a winter with every advantage ; much less in our present situation. On the other hand, tlie undertaking to move so large a body for so considerable a distance by boats, was not without very serious difficulties. ShouIJ we roinain much longer here, the bad weather must be expected to set in. The stay of y :) t ■;. I i ' II i V 12 parry's voyagk to tlie Dutchmen to the Northward is very doubtful : it' the uorthern harbours iiept clear, tliey stay till the beginning of Sejiteiuber ; but when the loose ice sets in, they quit them immediately. 1 thoujjht it proper to send for the uflicers of both ships, and informed them of my intention of prepairing tlie boats for going away I immediately hoisted out tlie boats, and took every precaution in my power to make them secure and comfortable ; the fitting would necessarily take up some days. The water shoaling, and the ships driving fast towards the rocks to the NE, I or- dered canvass bread-bags to be made, in case it should be necessary very suddenly to betake ourselves to the boats : 1 also sent a man with a lead and line to the northward, ind another from the Carcass to the eastward, to sound wherever they found cracks in the ice, that we might have notice before either the ships, or the ice to which they were fast, took the ground ; as in that case, they must instantly have been crushed or overset. *' On the 7lh, in the morning 1 set out with the launch over the ice ; she hauled much easier than 1 could have ex- pected ; we got her about two miles. I then returned with the people for their dinner. Finding the ice rather more open near the ships, 1 was encouraged to attempt moving r«v.^-*"-»«*«.^ •»"*•■». 14 PARBV'S VOYAGE TO A 'i now got through so much of the ice, we began again to con< ceive hopes that a brisk gale from that quarter would soon effectually clear us. On the 10th, the wind Hpringing up totheNNE in the morning, we set all the sail we could upon the ship, and forced her through a great deal of very heavy ice ; she struck often very hard, and with one stroke broke the shank of the best bower anchor About noon we had got her through all the ice, and out to sea. I stood to the NW to make the ice, and found the main body just where we left It. At three in the morning, with a good breese easterly, we were standing to the westward, be> tween the land and the ice, both in sight ; the weather On the 11th, came to an anchor in the harbour of Smeerenberg, to refresh the people after their fatigues. We found here four of the Dutch ships, which we had left in the Norways when we sailed from Vogel Sang, and upon which I had depended for carrying the people home in case we had been obliged to quit the ships. In this sound thers is good anchorage in thirteen fathoms, sandy bottom, not far from the shore ; it is well sheltered from all winds. The island close to which we lay is called Amsterdam Is- land, the westernmost point of which is Hacluyt*s Head land i here the Dutch used formerly to boil tueir whale-oil, and the remains of some conveniences erected by them lor that purpose arc still visible. Once they attempted to make an establishment, and left some people to winter here, who all perished. The Dutch ships still resort to this place for the latter season of the whale fishery. The black moun- tains, white snow, and beautiful colour of the ice, make a romantic and uncommon picture. Large pieces frequently break off from the icebergs, and fall with great noisp, ms:-) the water ; we observed one piece which had floated out into the bay, and grounded in tw6nty-four fathoms ; it was i i THE NORTH POLK. 15 fifty feet high above the surface of the water, and of the same beautiful colour as the iceberg. " We saw no springs or rivers, the water, which we found in great plenty, being all produced by the melting of the snow, from the mountains. During the whole time we were in these latitudes, there was no tliunder or lightning. I must also add, that I never found what is mentioned by Marten, (who is generally accurate in his observations, and faithful in his accounts) of the sun at midnight resembling in appearance the moon ; I saw no difference in clear weather between the sun at midnight and any other time, but what arose from a different degree of altitude ; the brightness of the light appearing tliere, as well us else- where, to depend upon the obliquity of his rays. The sky was in general loaded with hard white clouds ; so that I do not, remember to have ever seen the sun and the horizon both free. from them even in the clearest weather. We could al- ways perceive when we were approaching the ice, long be- fore we saw it, by a bright appearance near the horizon, which the pilots called the blink of the ice. Hudson re- marked, that the sea where he met with ice was blue ; but the green sea was free from it. During the time that we were fast amongst the Seven Islands, we had frequent op- portunities of observing the irresistible force of the large bodies of floating ice. We have often seen a piece of several acres square lifted up between two much i.irger pieces, and as ii were becoming one with them ; and afterwards this piece so formed acting in the same manner upon a second and third ; which would probably have continued to be the effect, till the whole bay had been so filled with ice that the different pieces could have had no motion, had not the stream taken an unexpected turn, and set the ice out of the bay. " On tne 32nd, the season was so very far advanced, and fogs as well as gales of wind so much to be expected, that nothing more could now b? done, had any thinj? been left Mi t'AUKY H «l»YA(;ii lO 4 I , inilriod. The summer appenrfi (o have becu iincdmmonly fiivotirahlo For our pui'iiuHo, mid titlordud iih (1i« fulleHt upptr- tunity oriiHCcrtainin^ ropnnlodly the Bituiition of that wnll of ice, extondiiif; for more tliun twenty degreuH between the In- titiidcBof cigbty and eig4ity-oni>, witbout tbe Hinuileat up- ponranoeofunyopeninf^. i ... *' I sbouUI bere oonoludo tbo account of tbe voynfifc, bad not some observation:) and experiments occurred on tlie pas- •ag;n liome. " In steering to tlie soutliward wo soon found tlie weatlicr grow more mild, or ratber to our feelingo warm. August 24lli, we saw Jupiter ; tbo sigbt of n stur was now become uluiost ns extraordinary a pbenomcnon, as tlie sun ul mid- nigbt, wben we first gotwitbintbc /Vrctic circle. Tbe wea- tber was very fine for some part of (be voyage ; on tbe 4tli of September, tbe water being perfectly sinuotb witb a dead calm, I repeated witb success tbe attempt 1 bud made to get soundings in tbe main ocean at grcut dcptlis, and struck ground in six bundred and eigbty-tbree fatlioms, witb cir- cumstances tbut convince me I was nut mistaken iu the deptb ; the bottom was a fine soft blue clay. From the 7tli, of September, wben we were off Shetland, till the 24th, wben we made Orfurdness, we bad very bard gales of wind witb little intermission, which were constantly indicated several hours before they came on by tbe fall of tbe baro- meter, and rise of the manometer : this proved to me the utility af those instruments at sea. In one of these gales tbe hardest, I think, 1 ever was in, and with the greatest sea, we lost three of our boats, sod were obliged to heave two of our guns overboard, and bear away for some time, though near a lee shore, to clear tbe ship of water. In one of these gales on the 13tb of September, Dr. Irving tried the temperature of (he sea in (bat state of agitation, and found it considerably waiincr than that of the otmospbere. Tins oDservation is the more interesting, as it ogices with n passage in FhitarcirB Natural Questions not /"I helieve) Tiir NOP III pni.r. \i before Uknn notice of, or oonflrnipd l>y oxporimont, in wtiloli lie remarkH, '* that the sea bccomci warmer by b«in(; agi« tilted in waves." ......./» 'IMio frequent and very heavy gales at the latter end of ttie year, vonflrmod me in the opinion, that the time of our sail" ing from England was the properent that could have been choscni These gales are as common in the Spring as in the Autumn ; (hero is every reason to suppose therefore, that at an early season we should have met with the same bad weather in going out as we did on our return. The una- voidable necessity of carrying a quantity of additional stores and provisions, rendered the ships so deep in the wa- ter, that in heavy gales the boats, with many of the stores, iiuist probably have been thrown overboard ; as we expe- rienced on our way home, though the ships were then mueli liglitened by the consumption of provisions, and expendi- ture of stores. Such accidents in the outset must have de« feated the voyage. At the time we sailed, added' to' the fine weather, we had the further advantage of nearly reacl|in{; tlie latitude of eighty without seeing ice, which ttie Green- landmen generally fall in with in the latitude of seventy- three or seventy-four. There was also most probability, if ever navigation should be practicable to the Pole, of find- ing the sea open to the northward after the solstice ; the sun having then exerted the full in0uence of his rays, tliough there was enough of the summer still remaining for th*" purpose of exploring the seas to the northward and west* ward of Spitsbergen. With these observations Capt. Piiipps cuneUides his narrative. To seek for a passage by the North Pole was among tho objects committed to the exertions of that great navigator Captain Cook, but their eifurts led them to assert tlie utter impossibility of eflecting it. Passing over other attempts, we shall proceed to a narration of tlie circumstances which attended the efforts of Lieut. Parry in the First Voyage which was committed to Uis supcrintcndancc. P. V. I. D d' rj ^^ 11 PARRYt4 VOYAOK TO Tba fpIrU and oapaoily manifcstod by him when he ac- eompanied Capt* Ross, led the government to select him in another attempt at disootery of a passage int(f the Pacific : accordingly be was appointed to command a bomb vcs- ael called the Hecla, of three hundred and seventy-five tons burthen, and put into commission on the 31st of Ja* nuary 1810. A gun brig, named the Griper, was also ap- pointed to this service and the command given to Lieut. Liddon, with orders to obey Lieut. Parry's directions. Both ships underwent a thorough repair, and every mode was adopted to strengthen their timbers and enable them to encounter the rough and tempestuous seas they were to explore. The officers and crew were to receive double pay ; and as most of the seamen who had sailed with Capt. la ss entered themselves for the present voyage, more expert arii of tlio Strait 18 so loa led with ice, a» to render it dillicult mid dun- gerous for tlio sliips to proceed no far to tlie nortlnr.ird ni Lancaster Sound, at so early a period of the aeuHon ; it may be adviseable, in that case, to endeavour in the first in- stance, to examine Cumberland Strait, or any other open- ing that may be likely to bring you to the eastern coast oi America, in preference to the loss of time and danger to the ships, which might be occasioned in persevering too anxiously in the attempt to get to Lancaster 8ound ; and should you, on your first reaching Davis' Strait, find it to be impracti- cable to make your way up the western side of the Strait to that Sound, or even to Cumberland Strait, you will understand, that you are at liberty to proceed towards those places, go- ing round by a more easterly track, if the state of the ice, and all other circumstances, should induce you to think it most advisable to do so. Thus, although the track, which we wish you to pursue, if practicable, is pointed out ; you will) nevertheless, perceive, that the course to be finally adopted by you for getting to the northward, is, in fact, left to your own discretion, on a careful examination into the state of the ice on your arrival in Davis* Strait ; always bearing in mind, that it is an important object of the Expe- dition, that Lancaster Sound be thoroughly examined by you, and afterwards those of Jones and Smith, if you should have failed in previously finding a passage to the westward. Should you be so successful as to find a passage to the westward, it will be advisable to make the best of your way, without stopping to examine any part of the northern coast of America, to Behring*s Strait ; and if you should fortu- nately accomplish your passage through that Strait, you are then to proceed to Kamtschatka (if you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast), for the purpose of delivering to the Russian Governor, dupli- cates of all the Journals and other documents which the 93 PAnilY S VOYACK TO ksl if,-} passage mny liaye eiippliect, with a request that tln'y may be i'urwai'ded over-land to St. Petersburg]!, to be conveyed from thence to London. From Kamtschatka you will pro> ceed to the Sandwich Islands, or Canton, or such other place as you may think proper, to refit the ships and refresh the crews ; and, if during your stay at such place, a safe op. portunity should occur of sending papers to England, you should send duplicates by such conveyance. And, after having refitted and refreshed, you are to lose no time in returning to England, by such route as you may deem most convenient. If, at any period of your voyage, but particularly after you shall have doubled the north-eastern extremity of America, the season shall be so far advanced as to make it unsafe to navigate the ships, on account of the long nights having set in, and the sea not being free from ice ; and the health of your crews, the state of the ships, and all con- current circumstances, should combine to induce you to form the resolution of wintering in those regions, you are to use your best endeavours to discover a sheltered and safe harbour, where the ships may be placed in security for the winter ; taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people committed to your charge, as the materials with which you are supplied for housing>in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do. And, if you shall find it expedient to resort to this measure, and you should meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in your {Mwer, to cultivate a friendship with them, by making them presents of such articles as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them. You will, however, take care not to sufier your- self to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly on your guard af scientiflo Lion" to the and the ieavour to the atmos- roduced on learance of register of urface and of the ho- , invented ay be pro- le, as cora- the open ;o be made lay be pro- ;4; duced by observing an object^ either celestial or terrestrial, over a field of ice, as compared with objects observed over a surface of water ; together with such other meteorolu- gioial remarks as you may have opportunities of making. You are to attend particularly to the height, direction, and strength of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the cur- rents ; the depth and soundings of the sea, and the nature of the bottom ; for which purpose you are supplied with an instrument better calpulaled to bring up substances than the lead usually employed for this purpose. And you are to understand that although the finding a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main object of this expedition, yet, that the ascertaining the cor- rect position of the different points of the land on the west- ern shores of Baffin's Bay, and the different observations you may be enabled to make with regard to the magnetic influence in that neighbourhood supposed to be so near the sition of one of the great magnetic poles of the earth, as well as such other observations as you may have opportunities of making in Natural History, Geography, &c. in parts of the globe &c. little known, must prove most valuable and in- teresting to the science of our country ; and we, therefore, desire you to give your unremitting attention, and to caU that of all the officers under your command, to these points ; as being objects likely to prove of almost equal importance to the principal one before mentioned, of ascertaining whe- ther tliere exist any passage to the northward, from the one ocean to the other. For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more fre- quent chances of hearing of your progress, we desire that you do, frequently after you have passed the latitude of 65 degrees north, and once every day, when you shall be in an ascertained current, throw overboard a bottle, closely sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and posi- tion at which it is launched ; and you will give similar or- P. V 2. ^ M an PARRYS VOYAGE TO ■^1 '* I i: . fice, as the ing anxious ailor, Capt. and giving ind appoint- place of ren- )f sail to de- to the Arctic itioDofallon J, and every se called the an enclosed inted person making re- ves to their board were p Lancaster g tracks of ous islands. to which Capt. Parry gave names, a«d advanced westward as fust as the unravourablc winds would permit to the lat. of The sea before them appeared as one 74" longitude 100*. field of ice, excepting a small channel of sufHcient breadth to admit the passage of the ships. On the 28th of August they reached an island to which Capt. Parry gave the name of Dyam Martin's Island, in lati- tude 75* 3*, longitude 103*' 44'. Capt. Sabine, Mr. Ross, Mr. Edwards, and Mr. Fisher went on shore ; after which a thick fog coming on, guns were continually fired as signals from the ships. On returning the gentlemen stated that they had seen the remains of several Esquimaux huts and found the island more fertile than any land they had noticed in the polar regions. Tracks of the musk ox and rein deer were also visible in many places which shewed that these ani- mals bad lately been in these parts. The ships continued to advance with great confidence to the 20th, when they found land to the northward arresting their progress ; to the southward the ice appeared as an ob- struction ; the compass had long ceased to fulfil their of- fice,— a thick fog enveloped them in darkness, so that the ships could see each other only at intervals and then only at a short distance. After some hours, the weather so far cleared as to enable them to discover a track through the ice, which lay ahead, and some appearance of an open sea at a distance. The ships were often in the foggy weather in the habit of taking each other as the point to sail by. The Hecla keeping the Griper directly astern and the Griper keeping the Hecla right ahead ; thus steering one ship by the other. On the Ist of September a breeze springing up and the ice clearing away the ships shaped their course to the west- ward. On the following day they had sight of a star, being the only one they had seen for near two months, by which it must be manifest what fogs they had met with. The ships received now some heavy blows from the ice, although they fa VARRY8 VOYAOK TO I' ' i . ^ •' i 1 '■> Mj-re from Ioohc and broken pieces througl: wliicli the ihlp ." were now making their passage. Findi .ig they could n r* get to tlio westward, they stood in for land, and a large part.' from both ships went un shore with a view to kil' deer They had however but little success, although it appeared evidently that several musk oxen and deer had been on the spot, and the place was in a high state of vegetation ; quantities of hair and wool being observed in diiTerent parts They found several heads of the rausk ox, and saw two deer, but they kept at too great a d -stance from the party to afford them the opportunity of killing them. The latitude was 74** 58^, and their longitude 107** 3'. At this place a bottle was buried containing the names of the ships and other particulars. The approaches of wint'^r now began to be manifest, tbs main ice approaching towards the shore, and contracting the space '"trough which the ships could make their way. They were now making little progess, and were impressed with the great probability that they should have to pass a long winter somewhere near their present station ; still how- ever they took advantage of all opportunities of proceeding, and at a few minutes after nine o'clock in the evening of the fourth of September crossed the meridian of 1 10° W from Greenwich, and in the latitude of 74* 44', by which they be- came entitled to a reward voted by the parliament of Bve thousand pounds. This sum bad been offered by the go- vernment under the authority of an act of parliament to en- courage the efforts for a discovery of a NW passage, and to commemorate the circumstance an headland on Melville Island which they had just passed was called Bounty Cape. On the following day, being Sunday the 5th, Capt. Parry assembled the men on deck and gave them an official notifi- cation that they were entitled to the before mentioned reward, and then took occasion to urge them to use every effort to pro- ceed further before the winter advanced, as then he said, he doubted not ofeffticting, the ensuing summer, the passage they I 4 ■•■-* -* .a Tflli NORTH POLE. 33 tlie .^tii^ : could nr' u'gc partj kil! (leer appeared (I been on getatiun ; rent parts I saw two the party 16 latitude is place a ships and nifest, tb« ontractin^ ;heir way. impressed to pass a still how- rocecding, ling of the f W from they be- lt of Bve y the go- en t to en- age, and Melville ity Cape, jt. Parry ial notifi- reward, rt to pro- said, he age they I ■ i were oarticularly sent to cxploro, or determine Its impossibility. He senta message of like purport to Lieut. Liddori, and ordered an'additional allowance of meat and beer on the occasion. The ships at this time lay in a bay to which Capt. Parry gave the name of Ilecia and Griper Bay, and the wind in- creasing, the vessels were brought to anchor in seven fathoms water, having not till now dropped anchor since the ships left tfie coast of Norfolk inJEngland. On the 0th the boats were sent to bring on board some moss })eat which was substituted for coals, and the wind moderating, the ships made sail round a cape a short distance, but on ex- ploring the seaaround, it appeared manifest that no passage to the westward could be effected. On the 7th a herd of ani- mals, were supposed to be musk oxen, seen feeding, and two white hares were killed by some of the officers. On the 8th ine ships were towed in shore, and on the 9th the ice was so close as to preclude all chance of the ships be- ing able to move. Twolarp-e bodies of ice called icebergs, which were aground near tiio shore, formed bays, in which the Hecla and Griper were secured from accidents from the large pieces of floating ice and other dangers. Three duyg after Mr. Dealy shot a musk ox, but the smell was unplea- sant, and none seemed to relish the flesh as food. The Hecla was moved farther in shore, which was a fortunate circum- stance, as the iceberg was driven from its situation. On the 10th Mr. Fife and a part of the crew of the Griper were sent in pursuit of rein-deer, whose footsteps they had no- ticed. Night came on without any appearance of their return, and considerable anxiety was felt for their safety. Early in the following morning therefore, a party was sent in search of them ; but a heavy fall of snow coming on, all traces of the former party were' lost, and ♦hese latter persons missed their road back, and it was not till after dark, and rockets were fired from the ship, that they were able to get back, in a state of great distress and suffering, after a fruitless search for their companions. Another night of distressing anxiety waspassedT^ P V '^ F i 84 vahhy'h ^oyack to and partit's worr npiiiii sent on ilm look-out. Tti tho mvan time n liirr'!;o mast wifli a llu^ was t>roct('d on lui adjoining hill, and nmaller ]iol<>s with directionH «ittach(ul tothcniwero titck up, stating thai j^rovisionn would ht; found under thr flag stalf. I)ut it wa.s not till the 13tli, after they had hi>en absent four days, that any of the party were discovered. Mr. Fife's party consisted of liimself and si\ men; and after they had wandered fdr three days they observed the llai; staff at a treat distance. Here a dilferenci! of opinion arose, wliether what they saw was a p(»le erected before they nad set out, at a considerable distance from the ships, or was in- tended for their guidance ; and their opinions on this circum- stance so differed, that four of the party proceeded towards the signal post, and Mr. Fife, and two of the seamen, be- lieving it to be the staff waich had been erected previous to their journey, took a quite different route. The four men af- ter a journey of much fatigue reached the flag staff, and j)ar- taking of the provisions and some rum placed there, they at- tempted to proceed, and perceiving footsteps, fell in with a party under Mr. Nias, who were in search for them. The distress of the officers and men was increased, in the appre- hension that Mr. Fife 'and the two sailors would perish. A new party were just on the point of setting out, when advice was brought that they were found. Every attention was now paid to the situation of such of the lost party as appeared to be in diinger. Some of them were severely frostbitten, and all of them in a state of groat exhaustion ; but every attention being paid to their situation, they all recovered in a few days. This circumstance gavo name to a point of land which was in consequence called Capo Providence. On the 16th the weather being clear, the ships made sail to the westward, passing Cape Providence. A large piece of ice, which drifted from the sJiore, ran so close to the Hecla as to strike her violently, and lifted up her rudder. The ships continued to sail near the land ou the following day. TUB NORTH POLIC 86 s. or wus in- From tJiis time to the iJlst, tlio sliipA snilod with diflTioulty tliroiigh tht! sniiill o])(niings whioli occasionally were discovered, nnd Homctiines prcss«d through the new ice which was gather- ing round very lust. The Griper wus forced on shore hy a powerful body of ice. In this dik^mma it uppeured necessary to lighten her in order to getheruHout. Fortunately the wind drove the ice from the shore, and the tide rising, the vessel was got ufloat. The near approach of winter, and the muny hin- drances which daily presented themselves, now manifested tho necessity of seeking the most eligible situution for the ships to ho stationed till the ensuing summer. With this view, on the 22nd the ships weighed unchors, und steered towards Heclaund Griper Bay, at which place they had seen the most proper situa- tion to place the ships during the winter. The ice now accu- mulated so fast, that they began to fear the ships would be frozen in during the night, and that they might not reach the harbour. Capt. Parry manned a boat, and accompanied by another bout from the Griper, and the wind favouring them by opening a pnssugo, they landed on the west side of the harbour, and made a r.ignal for the ships to make towards it. A body of fixed ice of several inches thick had formed in the harbour, and it appeared that to bring the ships into a place of security, it would be necessary to cut a channel through it, for the length of two miles. They made holes through the ice at different places, and found the depth of this intended channel to be several fathoms. On the 24th the ships were brought into a proper situation for commencing the opening, and Capt. Parry ordered a party to so"nd and mark the!most proper way for the channel to be cut. The opening of this passage was a work of immense labour and fatigue, and on the second morning of the attempt, the opening through which the ships had passed was found so much frozen, that they were obliged to force the pieces of ice which were now cut to form the channel, under the great body of ice ; to effect which, several of tho -rew stood on one end of the pieces, while others witlrrope raised the opposite end. In accymplisliing this, the mon «tood up to their F 2 86 FARRY'ii VOYAGE TO kneel in water. On the third day the canal was completely cut, and the ships were warped into their proper stations, and the captain named the place Winter Harbour. Having thus placed the ships, they had now time to reflect on the various ditSculties which they might expect to encounter in the course of the ensuing months. Secluded from all inter- course with others, dark and dreary days and nights to be passed, and no means of recreation or comfort to be procuied, excepting what the ships' stores afforded ; much depended upon the management and forethought of the officers in com- mand : to this end regulations for the maintenance of good or- der and for promoting the health of the crews were issued. The decks were roofed over with a wadding tilt, and every mode was adopted to shelter the crew from the snow and wind. They were also cleared, so as to afford room for the crews to walk when the severity of the weather might pre- vent them from taking exercise on shore. A house was built for ths reception of the clocks and ma- thematical instruments which had been brought out. This was erected with some labour, as the ground was so frozen as to be opened with difficulty. It was however at length so built and lined with moss, as to sustain a- warm temperature at the severest part of the winter Attention was paid to adopt all useful regulations to pro- mote the health of the crews, who at this time, with a few ex- ceptions, were in as good health and spirits as when they quitted their native country. Stoves were erected, and stove pipes so placed, as to impart heat and convey the warm air between the decks. Beer was brewed of the essence of malt and hops, until the weather became so severe that the liquor would not ferment. Donkin's. -preserved meat, sour krout, pickles, and vinegar was issued. Lime juice and su- gar, mixed with water, was supplied to the men. Attention was paid to their clothing, and the men were daily mustered and examined by the proper officers. The bedding also, waji regularly examined. The medical officers examined every THB NORTH FOLE. 37 man at stated times, to observe if any appearances of an unhealthy character were manifested. To prevent a state of inactivity, Capt. Parry proposed to the officers to establish a course of theatrical amusements ; which being readily acceded to, Lieutenant Beechey was appointed to superintend the performances, and on the 5th of November, the ships' crews were amused by a theatrical exhibition. A Newspaper was also established and pub« lished weekly under the conduct of one of the officers, to which they gave the Name of the North Georgia Gazette and Winter Chronicle. These various contrivances were adopted and pursued that the minds of the people might be occupied and diverted during the many dark and dreary months they bad to remain frozen up in Winter Harbour. Pefore the close of the month of October, the sea was completely frozen over, and presented to the eye one solid and compact field of unmoveable ice. They saw several rein deer, and a white bear pursued one of the crew to the ships, where some of the people fired at, and wounded him, but nevertheless he made his escape. On the lOtb of Octo- ber, a party went in pursuit of some rein deer ; and staying out until the night set in, considerable apprehension was ex- cited on their behalf, and others were sent in search of them, and rockets fired to direct them the way. One man was found in that state of insensibility which excessive cold in- duces ; his hands were frost bitten, and probably he would have perished, but for the assistance of those sent in pursuit of tliem. His fingers were become stiff, and it was after- wards necessary to take ofi* three of them. Some of the gen- tlemen who went on this party were so afTected as to appear in a state of idiotcy ; but on being taken into the cabin and ]>roper]y attended to, they soon recovered their useful fa- culties. In consequence of this circumstance, direction posts were erected on diiferent high parts, pointing to the ships. About the middle of October the snow, during a hard gale of wind, drifted with such force that it was found ue- t; 98 parry's voyage to fl •' :-^ m i w A oesaary to keep under the coverings erected, and to extend a line from sliip to ship, and from the ships to tlic shed erected on the land, ns the sight vras interrupted by the occumulation of the snow. The deer about this time accu- mulated in considerable numbers, probably it being the time of their departure from these regions. Parties who irent out afterwards with their guns to kill game, returned without discovering animals uf any kmd. The party had now about five hours of day-light, the remainder of the twenty four were marked by its absence. A peculiar sensation at- tended the tou<:hing of any metallic substance, tending to produce a kind of pain as when a person had passed his band on heated iron. In the beginning of November the sun took his departure for the winter months ; and to excite a spirit of activity, and present a means of exciting attention among the Crew, the force of Miss in her Teens was performed by ditTerent officers of the ships. The preparations necessary on the occasion occupied a few days of their time, and tended to their health and diversion ; these kind of amusements were afterwards repeated. Half the month of December had now passed away, and it was become excecdinj;;ly dif- ficult to use some of the instruments ; for if on looking through the glasses any breath escaped from the mouth <>f the party, it became converted into a coat of ice on' the glass. The vivid light of the Aurora Burealis was now constantly visiting them, and afforded most interesting sub- jects for thfcir observation. The vinegar became frozen, the lemon juice, which had been carefully packed in bottles, froze, and the bottles burst. They had a few gallons of concentrated vinegar, which resisted the operation of the frost, at least it only assumed the consistency of lard. One half the winter passed away and they approached the new year, without having experienced the tedium which such a lengthened period of darkness might have been ex- THE NOnTll POLE. ao ■1 peeled to produce, and tliey felt surpriited at the quickness with which the time had appeared to pass by. To keep up the spirits of the crew by occupying their tiinp, they were divided into four watches, and a daily course of duty required to be fulfilled ; an inspection took place as to the state of their health, cleanliness, warmth of cloathing, and their general conafort ; the sides of the ship were rubbed with dry cloths, to take off any humidity that luight appear, and the decks and other parts were rubbed with hot sand. If any appearance of ice between decks, it was scraped off and carefully remoyed, and a pipe conveying hut air was placed in a direction to remove such dampness. Capt. Parry remarks that tliis inconvenience might to a great degree have been avoided, by a sufficient quantity of fuel to keep up two good fires on the lower deck, throughout the twenty-four hours ; but the stock of coals would not per- mit iMs, . nn-'iering the probability of their spending a se- cond wiL' Ji A'; ain the Arctic circle, and therefore was only allowed ^^ a tew occasions during the most severe part of the winter. When the weather permitted, they were sent on shore to walk or take exercise, and on other occasions they were required to run for a time round the deck, sing« ing some tune or some one playing an organ. In the even- ing they were left to amuse themselves as they might feel inclined, and the officers spent their evening in musical pursuits, or in some game of amusement. The Sundays a))pear to have been generally spent in much of a christian spirit. A regular course of duties were gone through, and the peculiar circumstances under which their religious services were performed impressed no small dc* gree of seriousness and reverence on the occasion. Oo Christmas Day also divine service was performed and an ad- ditional allowance of grog and provisions issued to the men. Symptoms of scurvy having made their appearance ok Mr. Scallon, the gunner of the Hecla, Capt. Parry tried to raise sallads of mustard and cress in bis cabin, in mould 1 1 '> 40 PAnRV's VOYAGE TO ^i :\ i /'if-. U ^■f:%^ placed along the side of the stove pipe, nad he was so fur successful as to generally procure a small crop on the sixth or seventh day. The use of these were so far suc- cessful on Mr. Scallon, that in a few days he found himself in a considerable state of convalescence. On the fifteenth of January they saw a remarkable in- teresting display of the Aurora Borealis, forming a com- plete arch, and varying its lights in the most wonderful manner. During the whole time of their staying here, though these northern lights continually appeared, nothing bearing comparison with this was observed on any other oc- casion. On the 3d of Febroary the sun was seen for the first time this year, having not been visible since the 11 th of November. The weather was about this time more severely cold than at any otL^i* part of the season, and frequently frost bitten oases were brought-under the surgeon's notice. Most of the cases were in the feet, which being at so great a distance from the center of circulation, were more likely to be af- fected. Whenever any cases did occur, it was with great slowness that a recovery proceeded, and in general it was with the loss of the toe-nail, or of the skin. It was matter of very great interest to notice, at how great a distance sounds were heard. Conversation in the common tone of voice might be distinctly heard at the dis- tance of a mile. The increasing length of the day, and the presence of the sun, induced Capt. Parry to attempt opening the win- dows below deck. The Hecla had double windows in her stern, with nn interval of about two feet between each win- dow. It appeared that the vapour which h.id arisen from the stoves had become frozen between the two windows, so that more than a dozen baskets full of ice were removed ia order to admit the light. The consequence of this however was, that the cabin became exceedingly cold, and it waj impossible to sit tliere without being warmly wrapped up. 'A 1 THE NORTH POLE. «1 9 SO far p on the far suc- d liiiuself kable in- r a com- ivondcrful ing here, , nothing other oc- first time November. cold than rost bitten lost of the a distance f to be af- with great sral it was at how ion in the It the dis- ■csence of the .v'«n- vis in her each win- isen from dows, so moved ia however id it wai ped up. An accident of a most serious nature took place on the 24(h of February. The houso erected on shore for the re- ception of the clocks and instruments, by some accident took fire. The crew at the time were on deck taking their usual exercise, so that a most ready attention was paid, and for- tunately it was soon got under j but the effort was accom- panied with distressing circumstances of frost-bite to seve- ral of the crew. Almost every nose and cheek, manifested by their deadly whiteness, (while they were engaged in put- ting out the flames) the state in which they were, and the medical gentlemen, with assistants, were employed rubbing the parts with snow, so that no less than sixteen men were added to the sick list, in consequence of this accident, and with the loss of some of their fingers. On the 10th of March, they concluded their theatrical per- formances witli the Citizen, and the Mayor of Garratt. The theatre was now dismantled, and the enclosures removed to afford light to the officers cabins. Their solicitude to proceed on the purposes of their Yoy- age was now considerable. They had advanced to the mid- dle of April ; the sun was seventeen hours out of the twenty- four above the horizon, yet still the cold was extremely se- vere, and a cloudy sky, and a white surface, both on land and sea, chilled every prospect. The health of the ships companies however daily improved as the season Advanced, and all appeared in a convalescent state The temperature of the air, by the end of April, became so much more mild, that the thermometer stood at the freez- ing point, and some of the crew seemed disposed to forego the use of some of their clothing', but were prevented by their superior officers. Their clothing, which bad hitherto been washed and dried below deck by means of the stoves, was now exposed for this purpose to the open air. Under the apprehension that it might be needful, the provisions were reduced to two-thirds the usual allowance, which was sub- mitted to by both officers and men without a murmur. P. V. 2. Q 42 parry's voyagb to ..(!■ t , Is Hi In the middle of May, the crew proceeded to cut the ice from the sides of the ship. • This was a cold and tedious per- formance, and occupied their attention for nine days. To- wards the end of this month, they had a smart shower of rain, yet except in this instance, but little appearance of a thaw was manifest, and they were now approaching very near to the time of the sun's longest continuance among them. Th« Commander had resolved upon an excursion to Table Hill, and to make a circuit of the country. Every one offered to be of the party ; but Capt. Parry thought proper to confine his number to° eleven persons beside himself. A small cart was built to carry provisions, a cooking apparatus, and other necessary articles ; and every one took a knapsack on his back, and necessary clothing. An additional party went with them the first day's journey ; and in good spirits, they fixed their first encampment, and retired to their repose, each man having a warm blanket sewed up in the form of a bag. To avoid the injury which their eyes might sustain by the re- flection of the sun from the snow, it was resolved to lay up for their repose in the middle of the day and to travel by night, if night it might be called when the sun was above the horizon the whole twenty-four hours. They continued their journey over Melville Island till they came within view of what appeared to them the frozen sea. To determine this, Capt. Parry, accompanied by three others of the party, set out to make a closer e?iamination. On their getting nearer, they were satisfied by the cracks in the ice of the same nature as those which occurred at Winter Harbour, that these cracks were occasioned by the rise and fall of the tide To determine this point however more satisfactorily, they went a few hun- dred yards on the ice, und attempted to [make an opening with a pickaxe ; but after digging about two feet into the ice without obtaining an opening, they resolved to return to the party, and procure more assistance. They returned therefore to their companions, and the next morning pro- ce'eded with the whole party, and renewed their attempt to . : ' ; •mmsf^^.^t^^timm. '% THB NORTH POLE. 48 dig through the ice. After several hours labour the peo- ple at length canae to water, having dug into the ice to the de|V.h of nearly fifteen feet. The vrater rose to nearly within a foot and a half ' ' 'lie surface, and on tasting it it was manifestly ^ st- "ter. They met Wi ' /ew ducks in this neighbourhooa, and liilled one. At this place they erected a monument of stones, twelve feet broad at tlie base, and placed under it a tin case containiDg an account of the party. Having proceeded to the northern extremity of Melville Island, they continued their journey in a different direction. About seven in the morning tliey halted, and were preparing for repose, when it was discovered that a knapsack be- longing to Mr. Reid had fallen offtlie cart in their journey. He set out to look for it, but did not return till eleven o'clock, when he appeared so severely affected by snow-blindness, as to be scarcely able to see his way, so great was the glare of the snow, when the sun shone most powerful upon it. On the llth of June, they met with so rough a road, formed of large blocks of sandstone of all sizes, as occa- sioned the axle-tree of the cart in which they had carried their baggage to break. As it was now become useless, tliey pitched their tents, made a fire of the wood, and having shot a few ptarmigans, made a sumptuous meal com- pared with their usual fare. Hitherto they had lived mostly on preserved meats, which in general they found hard fro- zen, when taken out of (heir canisters. It became necessary, in consequence of the breaking of the cart, that the baggage should be carried on the people's shoulders. It was accordingly distributed in regular pro- portions, the weight of the officers knapsacks being a few pounds lighter than (hose of (he men. Having proceeded in a southerly direction, for several miles, over ice, they began to suspect that they were cros- sing a gulph of the sea ; and Capt. Parry, desirous of satis- fying himself, was proceeding to dig through the ice, G 2 f! u parry's voyagr to 41, ?f> * i , all was found to be satisfactory. Indeed almost the THB NORTH POLE. 46 wliolo tppeared to be in h excellent a etite of preserraUoD, as when taken on board at the time of their sailing from Eng- land. The snow continued to roelt very fast, and a great change was manifest in the ice ; it being covered with re- servoirs or basons of water, as the thaw proceeded. Flocks of ducks and geese, as well as deer and other birds, and animals, now continually made their appearance ; and Copt. Parry being desirous to procure as large a sup- ply as possible for both ships, from which these creatures kept at a considerable distance, directed a party from each ship to go out to the distance of several miles, and to re- main there for a few days in order that they might have the better opportunity of success. Accordingly they set out, headed by Lieutenants Beechy and Hoppnerj taking tents, blankets, fuel, and the regular allowance of provisions to each man. By this means they obtained a seasonable sup- ply of provisions, and the change of dietwas highly gratify- ing to every man on board after having lived on such provi- sions as the ship afforded for so many months. The face of the country also presented a general state of vegetation. Sorrel was gathered in considerable quantities, some of the men being regularly sent out to pick it. The leaves were served out to the messes both of officers and men, and eaten as sallads or boiled as greens, or made into puddings. So abundantly were the ships thus supplied, that their beneficial effects were quickly manifested in the healthy appearance of the crews. On the 27th of June a seaman named William Scott, and who had been on the sick list for about two months, died. The first symptoms were fever and an inflammation of the lungs. Strong symptoms of scurvy were afterwards ma- nifest, and a treatment consistent with the various ap- pearances which presented themselves was pursued by the medical officer. A state of stupor afterwards followed, which was succeeded by delirium. After a time this e\- 1 46 parry's voyaob to ''1. ^' 't: J I eitement subsided ; but a relapse shortly followed which carried him off. At the request of the surgeon, Captain Parry suffered the body to be opened ; but it appeared af- terwards that the great obstacle to his recovery, and which could not b"*. counteract all systematic efforts, was an un- fortun ate propensity to liquor, which he gratified by iliici bartering with others of the crew. This event, in a voyage undertaken and pursued under circumstances so different from all former voyages, in what had been considered an uninhabitable climate during the winter months, exposec' to such a variety of circumstances tending to cause disease and death, can be considered only as remarkable, that it should stand alone, and be the only instance of the fatal power of disease among the crew. On the following Sun- day, after divine service had been performed, the body of the deceased was deposited in a grave made for its recep- tion a short distance from the beach. The ensigns and pendants were lowered half mast during the procession tu the grave, which consisted of the whole crew, both officers and men, The whole was solemn and impressive, and con- ducted with great decorum. A tomb stone was placed a t the head of the grave, with an inscription stating the cir- cumstance. In the beginning ef July an herd of deer being observed, a party were dispatched in pursuit of them ; but the open- ness of the country, giving the people no opportunity of approaching them unperceived, the whole of them escaped. The thaw was now become very rapid. Currents of water were pouring down the hills from the melting of the snow. Pools of water were every where forming on the ice from the thaw. Much rain also fell, which increased the number and depths of the holes in the ice, which now approached to that state of rottenness as to make it dangerous to walk across the pools. Boats were able to pass by means of these pools from ship to ship and also from the ships to the land. All the preparations necessary fur their departure % S ;1iv TUB NORTH POLE. followed which irgeon, Captain it appeared af- »very, and which forts, was an un- ^[ratified by iliici ent, in a voyage ces so different n considered an ths, expo9e(' to I cause disease Eirkable, that it mce of the fatal following Sun- ed, the body of B for its recep- c ensigns and lie proccttiiion to f, both officers ssive, and con- I was placed a t itating thecir- leing observed, ; but the open- opportunity uf ' theoi escaped, rrents of water g of the snow. ;he ice from the he number and approached to ^erous to walk is by means of lie ships to the leir departure were now completed. The thermometer now generally stood at from 65 toOO'andthemost pleasant Bensalions were excited in all at the comfortable altpration of the tempera- lure of the weather. The enjoyments of a pleasant walk, a plentiful supply of good living from the hunting parties, and the abundance of sorrel supplied now for every meal, presented such a scene of enjoyment as was most cheering 80 far as regarded all their temporal comfort ; but the month of July was so far advanced, that they began to be apprehensive there would be no time for active operations as to the main object of their enterprize, as winter would be soon again setting in, for the great body of ice had not yet broken up so as to make sea room for the ships. About the 20lh, during a strong breeze, the ice round the ships separated so as to leave them completely free ; no appearance however presented itself of any disruption or opening of the ice out at sea, so as to afford a prospect of their escaping from their present situation. Some few hummocks of ice were pressed up round the beach, and the moving of these bodies as the wind or tide varied, put the ships sometimes into considerable peril. A large portion of the ice was detached on the 30th from the main body io as to leave a greater extent of clear water round the ships and the whole body of ice in the harbour appeared to be moving, but the mouth of the harbour remained as yet one body of ice. During the nights the cold now was manifest and the pools of water which were on the ice became on these occasions slightly frozen over. The following day tlie wind blowing fresh, and every appearance, by the driving of the ice, indicating that they would find an opening, Capt. Parry directed every thing that remained on shore to be embarked and prepared for sailing. On the first of August the ships weighed, and the ice moving, they sailed out of Winter Harbour, aftei' having been frozen in upwards of ten months, having passed part of the September of the 48 PARny S VOYAOB TO I ■ M J 1, I » year 1819 nnd quitting it in the month or Au^^iitt in the year 1820. As tlie seiHon of the year was ao far advanced, tlicy could not but feel anxious to make the beat use of the little 8ummer which remained for the purpose of pursuing further discoveries. The heavy masses of ice which every where presented themselves and the small appearances of open sea were very discouraging ; but Capt. Parry resolved to use every effort in pushing to the westward. It required every exertion and the most quick judgment and decision to avoid being crushed by the large floes nnd hummocks of ice whioh were passing or repassing as the wind or tide changed. The Griper on different days was lifted two feet out of the water. Capt. Parry took repeated observations on the high land, as he sailed to the westward round Melville Island, but could discover no clear way for the ships to move. The Hecia was often obliged to unship her rudder and to use prompt efforts to avoid the masses of ice, and was notwith- standing nipped or severely pressed in more than one in* stance. The Griper was twisted so as to make her crack a great deal. So truly alarming were the circumstanceH, that Lieutenant Liddon landed all the journals and documents of importance, and made every arrangement for saving the stores and provisions, as he now began to be apprehen- sive of shipwreck. Capt. Parry at this time also felt almost equally apprehensive for the fate of the Hecla. as she was so closely surrounded by loose ice, that a slight pressure of so weighty a body towards the shore would have produced most distressing consequences. In the night, the ice gave the Hecla a heel of eighteen inches towards the shore, but it did not appear to do her any material injury. They were at length relieved from farther apprehensions at this time by the ice gradually receding from the shore, in consequence of a fresh breeze springing up. On the Idtb, it being a fine day, Capt. Parry with some 4. 01 w vi W( Au);iiit iu the (Ivanccd, tlipy se of the little irsuing further h every where ses of open lea resolved to use required every id decision to hummocks of I wind or tide lifted two feet the high land, le Island, hut I move. Tliu er ond to uae i was notwitb- 'e than one in« &ke her criick rastanceH, that nd documents for saving the be apprehen- so felt almost a. as she was it pressure of ave produced the ice gave le shore, but They were at this time consequence ry with lome f THU NUKI'II I'OLU. 40 :i of the officers landed, and roudc an excursion to the west' ward, along the hij^h part of the land next the sea, with a view to ascertain the possibility of finding a passage that way. They found a channel of open water between the land and the ice, extending ns fuk' as a headland, to which they gave the numo uf Cape Dundas; but beyond this, to the wtistward, all appeared one solid body of ice. Cap* tiiin Parry, therefore, determined to attempt no longer sailing in this direction, but to make trial of a more south- ern latitude, in which he flattered himself his etforts would be attended with success. Cape Dundus, which was the most westernmost point of the Polar Sea, which they made, is in latitude 74° 2^, and in longitude 113? bT. The length of Melville Island, which for so many months had been the scene of their residence, was about one hundred and thirty- five miles, and its breadth from forty to fifty miles. On the return of the party to the ships, thoy made sail to the eastward. A vigilant watch was directed to be made for any opening which might present itself. After sailing a few miles, the Uecia was secured for the night in a kind of harbour formed by large masses of ice, which, while it afforded the best security to be obtained, was not a little terrific in its appearance, as on the opposite side masses of ice were accumulated which leaned so much towards Mio ship, as to give the idea that they might fall upoi! ;;, The Griper was made fast near the beach, in a more open situation, and her rudder unshipped, in case she should be assailed by the ice. In efforts to proceed, amidst all the difficulties which these frozen seas presented, the succeed- ing days were spent. The large floes of ice which were sailing about, often drew more watex' than the ships, and they received some severe shocks from them. The new ice which formed every night, the situation in which the ships were placed, the shortness of the remaining port of the season, and the extent of their resources in provisions and necessary articles, required now the most serious con- P. V. 3. li 1 ! 50 PARKY S VOYAGE TO .; •1 « .;*' •; i n i ^ ■■! 4 ^^ i Bideration, in reference to the accomplishment of the pur- poses of the voyage, and the health and safety of the eople. In a fortnight they would arrive at that period tvben it was considered no efforts to navigate the Pohir Sea was practicable.— The distance to Icy Cape was eight or nine hundred miles, and all their eiforts this season had not taken them the distance of one hundred miles in the de- sired direction. Indeed, they had experienced such a series of difficulties and delays, and the ships had been in such repeated states of danger, that Captain Parry consi- dered himself, under all circumstances, no longer justified in his attempt to proceed in discovery The ships were still in good condition — the health of the whole crew was as good, or nearly so, as when they quitted England ; — but the loss of the lemon juice, which was con- sidered as so powerful an antiscorbutic; the inconvenience of crowding so many persons wi'Jiin the narrow limits which the ships afforded, which prevented the keeping the ships in a dry and healthy state ; these, with other reasons, induced Captain Parry to submit i specific question to the officers, calling upon them to take into consideration all the circumstances, and after well reflecting on the whole, to give him their opinion, as to the propriety of pursuing further the specific object of their voyage. After due consideration, the officers gave in their opinion to Captain Parry, in which they unanimously agreed with him as to the futility of any further attempts ate^:ploringthe sea to the westward ; and agreeing in opinion also ivith him that it would be better to run to the eastward, and endea- vour to find an opening which might lead towards tho American continent; and that after a reasonable time fail- ing to find such passage, it would be more expedient to return to England, than to risk the passing another winter in these seas, from whence it did not appear that they would derive any peculiar advantage, as to starting early at the conimenoemeiit of (he ensuing seasou THE NORTH POLE. 51 On the 27th of August they passeil the east einl of Mel- ville Island. The navigable channel now increased as they sailed to the eastward, so that it became not less tliau ten miles wide. A constant look-out was had from the crow*a-nest for an opening to the southward, but without any success. During a thick fog they kept the ships as close to the ice as possible, that they might not miss any opening to the southward. In the evening of this day they were near to the same spot as they had been on the same day of the preceding year ; and to add to the peculiarity of the circumstance, were reduced to the same necessity of steering the ships by each other, the Griper keeping the Uecla ahead, and the Hecla keeping the Griper directly astern, having no better means of knowing in what direc- tion the ships were sailing. The ships having traced the ice, with a view to discover an opening to the southward, from the longitude of 114* to tliat of 90°; without effect, Captain Parry felt it to be his duty to return to England. In consequence of this reso- lution, by which there was no necessity to make such a reserve of provisions or fuel, as would have been the case, had they proceeded in an attempt at further discovery, they were put upon full allowance of food, and such an issue of couls as might contribute to their comfort. For ncdr eleven months they had been on an allowance of t>vo- thirds of bread and other provisions, and only a partial supply of coals ; and this during a severity of weather that particularly needed every comfort, both of nourishment and warmth ; an order to the effect above alluded to, could not therefore but be received with the most heart-cheering satisfaction. On the 30th of August, having a westerly breeze, the ships advanced through 'he strait, with a view to run out of Lancaster Sound, it being the determination of Captain Parry, in his return, to make a general survpy of the westtrn coast of Baffin's Bay, conceiving that it might be II 3 J , ■ i I PA V* I! n\ n\ sa rARRY*S VOYAGE TO an important advantage to Whalers on this station. It might also be possible to find some outlet into the Polar Sea in a lower latitude than that of Sir James Lancaster*s Sound, a circumstance which would be of infinite im- portance in any further attempts at the discovery of the north-west passage. On the 3d of September, being in latitude 71° 24', they passed some of the highest icebergs they had ever seen, one of them being nearly two hundred feet above the sea. Landing on the beach at a place named Pond's Bay, they found several ponds of water, and Mr. Hoppner saw two large flocks of geese. They met also with the tracks of deer, bears, wolves, and foxes. Upon the beach they found part of the bone of a whale, which had been cut at one end ; they also found a quantity of chips lying about it, by which it was manifest that these parts had been visited recently by some of the Esquimaux ; indeed, Captain Parry surmised that some of these people were resident in the vicinity, but his time did not admit of his seeking to find them. The latitude was 71" 15'. On the 4th of September they were most agreeably sur- prised with seeing, from the mast head, a ship, and soon afterwards two others. They soon perceived that they were whalers ; but they lost sight of them during the en- suing night. — They came in sight of these and other whalers again on the 5th, and learned from Mr. Williamson, the master of the ship Lue, of Hull, of the death of King George the Third, and also of the Duke of Kent. — Mr. Williamson also told them he had met with some Esqui- maux in the inlet called the river Clyde, when he was in these seas in the year 1818; and Captain Parry being de- sirous to have some communication with them, and also to examine the inlet more minutely, made up a packet of dis- patches and letters, and sent on board the Lee, and then Vade sail for the inlet, and made for that part where they Were directed to look for the Esquimaux huts. Night came . THE NORTH POLE. L" 24', they ever seed, }ve the sea. Bay, they ler saw two s tracks of beach they een cut at ig about it, teen \isited ], Captain resident in seeking to ;eably sur- and soon that they ng the en- er whalers imson, the of King cnt. — Mr. ne Esqui. ie was in being de- id also to let of dis- and tlien here they ght came an, however, before they could discover them, and the weather the next day being very thick with snow, did not permit their standing in for the land. Here they found themselves near an immense iceberg, which they recognised to be the same, from its shape and dimensions, as they had met with in September 1818, and measured upwards of two miles in length. It was aground in the very same spot as when then noticed. In the evening, being near one of the islands situated in this inlet, they saw some canoes paddling towards the ships. They came along side with the greatest confi- dence, and made signs to have their canoes taken on board, and then came un the ships side without manifesting any apprehension. — The party consisted of four persons, un old man of about sixty, and three young men. They manifested their astonishment and delight by much noise, and a variety of gestures. If a present was made to either of them, or any thing they saw excited prrticular attention, their satisfaction was expressed by a baxtiingf noise, until they became almost hoarse, and at the same time jumping and dancing till their strength was nearly exhausted. They were afterwards taken below deck, although at first some of the younger ones seemed reluctant to descend ; but the old man leading the way, the others then followed, with the utmost readiness. Lieutenant Beechey being de- sirous of taking a likeness of the old man, he was requested to seat himself in a position for thai purpose ; and notwith- standing a variety of circumstances tending to arrest bis attention, and to excite emotion, he remained in his posi- tion for an hour. They bartered their clothes, spears, and whalebone, with our people, for knives, and other arti- cles, and appeared to act with honesty in these exchanges, exercising a seeming reflection, as to whether the articles were equivalent in value to those sought to be purchased from them. There appeared to be a becoming diffidence in Mi f i 1< w 1 1 5- ■!' f . 54 parry's voyage to the younger persons, these modestly keeping behind, and by that means at first missing some presents, which those who stood more forward received. As the evening closed, they were desirous of returning on shore. One of the party having bartered his canoe witli Captain Parry, he was sent on shore in one of the boats, because their canoes were calculated to hold only one person in each. Mr. Palmer, who went with the boat to the shore, stated that, if disposed, their canoes could outrun the boat. These Esquimaux appeared very ready in imitating sounds, and took great deliglit in using any words which they noticed as expressed by our people. Mr. Bell, a part owner of the ship Friendship, of Hull, went on board the Hecla this evening, oiTering any assist- ance he could render them. From this interview they ob- tained a statement of a number of interesting events which Lad taken place in Europe in the course of the seventeen months which they had been absent from their native country. On the 7th a breeze springing up, they made sail further up the inlet. The weather was cloudy, but there being an eclipse of the sun, Captain Parry and Captain Sabine landed oa an island near, in order to make observations. By tiie time however that they were prepared with their glasses the eclipse was at an end. However soon after they landed two of the Esquimaux, the old man and one of his young companions, paddled over to them from the main land. They had with them some seal-skins, dresses and whale- bone ; but in trading they were cautious to produce only one article at a time, leaving the remainder in their canoes till they had disposed of the one they brought. Thus they whom he might have Captain un- f signs, to ' person, to soon com- enever they } a present, > the Griper the bargain to the hands oh the dog, one of the ired to bar- 10 price that the Esqui- and plump, ■allow com- their hands except the ountenances leasing, and unmarried, lily. There armed, but ity by a few THE NOUTH FOLK Sir ii i Tlie dress of tlicse people was made of seal-skin, consist* ing of a jacket with a kind of hood, with breeches, and boots. There was but little difl'erence between tlie dress of the men and the women, and upon the whole they were well and com- fortably clothed for such a climate. The tents which form their summer habitations, are sup- ported by a \\A\\r pole of whalebone, fourteen feet high, rising a few feet above the skins which form the roof and sides. The length of the tents is about seventeen feet, and the breadth from seven to nine feet. The beds were formed of small shrubby plants. The door was formed of two pieces of bone, fastened together at the top ; and the skins were placed so us to overhip each other. The ouier cover- ing was fastened to the ; and by curved pieces of bone, commonly of the whale. The canoe purchased b Captain Parry, was one of the best to be seen among thesu people ; its length was nearly seventeen feet, and its breadth rather more than two feet. Two feet of <^he fore end are out of the water when it is floating. In many respects it was formed like the canoe of the Greenlanders. The timbers, or ribs, were five or six inches apart, and were of whalebone or driftwood, and co- vered with the skins of seals, or of the sea-horse ; and great care was taken to keep them dry, and to prevent their rot- ting, whenever they were not used. They use spears or darts in killing seals, and other sea animals. These consist of two parts, a stalF, and the spear itself. They are exceedingly expert in throwing the spear, and will strike an object at a considerable distance. While the ship's people were on the island before alluded to, and which Captain Parry named Observation Island, a small bird flying past, one of the Esquimaux indicated, by signs, that he could kill it, although it did not appear tiiat they had any bows or arrows about their tents, except a small one, made of whalebone, nbout six inches long, and which P. V. 3. I 58 parry's voyaok to I ■< 'i\ ■■; * I "/ seemed rather as a toy to please their children, thau capnljle of being employed to any useful purpose. Captain Parry saw but one sledge, which appeared to be romposcd of liie right and left jawbones of a young whale, being about ten feet long, and about nineteen inches apart, connected by parallel pieces made of the ribs of the whale, and seciired by whalebones so as to form the bottom of the sledge. The lower part was shod with bone to meet the friction which must rise on its motion. The whole was ^ery rudely made. These people had a great number of dogs, which ap- peared very wild and shy, and the natives had some difficulty in catching them, and of keeping them under controul when caught. They appeared most ravenous creatures, devouring their food with the greatest greediness, swallowing the fea- thers and every part of any bird which might be thrown to them. One of these dogs, which was purchased by Captain Parry, although regularly fed when brought on board, eat with the greatest avidity a large piece of canvass, a cotton handkerchief, and part of a check shirt. Indeed it was un- derstood that they will so gorge their food as often to occa- sion their death. Their mode of cooking their food appeared to be tuost fil- thy. A large mess of sea-horse flesh, not cleaned from the blood, was put into a stone vessel and suspended over a lamp. The meat in itself did not look so forbidding ; but the filthy manner in which it was cooked rendered it most disgusting. Their knives were made of the tusks of the walrus, cut or ground sufficiently for the purpose, having the original curve, so as to resemble the swords which children have as toys in England. From the few tools which were among them, to accomplish this must have been a work of great la- bour and patience. A drawing of the musk-ox was shewn to them in order to ascertain if they had any knowledge of this animal. The umallness of the hgure not corresponding with the ori8;inal TIIK NOUTM HOLK. 6J) apnhle [I to be whale, s apart, ale, and ! sledge. >n which made, liich ap- difficulty Bul when evourinfif T the fea- hrowH to J Captain oard, eat a cotton t was un- ri to occa- C UiOSt fil- from the ed over a ding; but d it most us, cut or original en have as ere among f great la- in order to imal. The le original size, they did not appear readily to understand it, but when the real head and liorns were shewn to them, they manifested their knowledge of the creature, calling it nominfjmuck. Mr. Fisher, in sounding part of Observation Island, met •with the winter huts of these people, which consisted of ex- cavations in a bank about two miles distant from their tents. Great store of provisions in sea-horses and seals were also found concealed under stones along the shore, so that it should seem that there was no lack of the means of subsis. tence among them. The whole of these Esquimaux looked tiealthy, and were free from disease. It is pleasing also to record that in no instance did any of them manifest a disposition to disho- nesty. In this feature of their character, they would put io shame thousands of the more enlightened and (as such would call themselves) the more civilized inhabitants of our own country. On taking leave of this party, (hey watched the boat for a few hundred yards and then quietly returned to their tents. On the 9th of September, the ships came in view of a spacious bay, the width of the entrance of which was not less than fifteen leagues. They found, on examining it, a considerable number of islands, and perceived land nearly round the whole of the Bay. Captain Parry however hav- ing resolved to seek for a passage in a lower latitude, did not examine it with that close attention to enable him to de- termine the fact, and he suggests the probability of some outlet being found from this bay into the Polar Sea. Un- der this determination he crossed to the southern shore, and took advantage of a breeze which sprung up to proceed. They found the ships however so much beset witb ice, that the Hecla was soon stopped altogether. On the 12th of September they were in latitude 68° 15', and longitude G5® 48*. In the night the Aurora Borealis were remarkably striking and picturesque ; (he various streaks of light pass- 13 W (lO VAiniV % >OYA«B TO n •I'l t ^ u \' m 1 ;« i *ri in;;- with the greatest rapidity from one part of the heavens to the other. The ships continued usinji; every ortbrt to discover a pas- sage in a more southern ktitude until the 2(>th, beinsj often «() beset with ice as to make their sailing exceedingly dan- gerous. At length Captain Parry came to the conclusion that the season was too far advanced to expect any useful results from any further efforts, and determined to make the best of their way for England. The boats were therefore hoisted in, and preparations made for their return home. In taking a review of the efforts which had been made in this voyage to discover a NW passage, accompanied with observations on the efforts of others, Captain Parry suggests the propriety of trying a lower latitude, along the siiore of Hudson's Strait, which he says has as yet been but little explored. That commerce has derived great advantage from these efforts he asserts ; for that the whalers, since the year 1818, have proceeded to occupy stations on the coast of Baffin's Bay, where fish have been found in much greater abundance than on the coast of Greenland. » Speaking of the conduct of the persons engaged in the whale fishery, Captain Parry says, " Nothing can exceed the bold and enterprising spirit displayed by our fishermen in the caj)ture of the whale. At whatever time of night or day, a whale is announced by the look-out man in the crow's nest, the men instantly jump into the boats, frequently with their clothes in ilieir hands, and with an alacrity scarcely equalled even in the most highly disciplined fleet, push on in pursuit of the whale, regardless of cold, and wet, and hunger, for hours, and sometimes for days together. Nor is it soKIy on occasions where their immediate interest is concerned, that this activity is displayed by them. It hap- pened, on the voyage of 1818, that in endeavouring to pass between the land and a body of ice, which was rapidly clos- thc Alexander, then under niv command. inj^' the shore inr. MiRTFi poi.i;. a c heavens to tourlied llie j;roiiii(l just ut ihu critical iiunionl when it vi\» uocessary to push thruuL;h the narrow an i u certain pns- sajfe. It being nearly calm, the boats were s«'nt a-head to tow, but the little way which they could gi.c the ship, was not Kulllcient to have rescued us in time from approachinir danji^er, and nothing less than the wreck of the ship was every moment to be expected. Several sa 1 of whalers wre following astern ; but seeing the dangerous situation in which the Alexander was placed, and the impossibility of getting through themselves, ihey instantly put about into the clear water which we had just left, and before we had time to ask for assistance, no less than fourteen boats, many of tliem with 'he masters of the ships themselves attending in them, placed themselves promptly a-head of the Alexan- der, and by dint of the greatest exertion towed her off into clear water, at the rate of three or four miles an hour, not one minute too soon to prevent the catastrophe we had anti- cipated." Captain Parry continues his observations on the eligible lity of Bailln's Bay as a point where the whale fishery may be pursued with }>reat success, iitul suggests the proper time in his view lor commencing the fishery season. On passing Cape Farewell, they met with a heavy gale of wind on the first and second of October. On the latter day a heavy sea struck the Hecla on the larboard quarter, which rendered it necessary to press her forward under more can- vass. By this circumstance she lost sight of the Griper, and did not meet with her again till they arrived in England. They had in their passage across the Atlantic, the most vivid appearances of the Aurora Borealis exhibiting a bright- ness equal to that of the moon. On the 16th, the sea running liigli and the ship pitching violently, the bowsprit was carried away, and the foremast and maintopmast very quickly followed. The main mast at one time appeared in great danger ; but by the activity of the officers and men it was saved. They got up jury- parry'i votaqi. If •'f masts with all possible disputch, and proceeded on their way. Captain Furry hnd appointed Lieutenant Liddon in case ol' separation, to meet ut Lerwick in the Shetland Islands, and to remain a week for his arrival, but on the 28th, the wind being fresh from the northward, he resolved to pro- ceed to Leith. On the 30th, Captain Parry landed at Pe- terhead,, and accompanied by Captain Sabine set out fur London, where they arrived on the morning of the third of November 1820. Such were the excellent methods pursued in tnis voyage, with reference to the health and comfort of the whole crew, that the Captain had the happiness of seeing every officer and man of both ships, consisting of ninety-four persons* with the exception of one only, return to their native country as well in health as on quitting England eighteen months preceding. In concluding the history of this voyage, it cannot but b« remarked, that the perseverance and steadiness of purpose manifested by Captain Parry, are deserving the highest praise, and that all that human effort could accomplish was effected by him. His second Voyage presents a variety of new incidents, which will be highly gratifying to everj reader. I on (heir way. Ion in case of :land Islands, tlio 28th, the lolved to pro- landed at Pe- le set out fur •f the third of in tnis voyage, o whole crew, 5 every ofiicer -four personn* native country ;hteen months cannot but b» ess of purpose \g the highest iccomplish was ents a variety fying to everj ( 68 ) THE SECOND VOYAGE OP CAPTAIN PARRY. The information which was obtained by the frst voyage, under th«j direction of Captain Parry, to discover a NW passage through the Arctic Sea into the Pacific, afforded such reasons to scientific and informed men that there cer- tainly was a way open in some direction, favourable to its ul- timate success, as induced the government, in thesucceed- mg year, to fit out a new expedition for the very same pur- pose. The Hecla having been found so well fitted for the purpose, was again put into commission; and the Fury, a vessel of the same description and size of the Hecla, was also appointed to this service. Captain Parry was appointed to the command of the Expedition, and received his com- mission for his Majesty's ship Fury, of three hundred and seventy- seven tons burthen, on the thirtieth of December 1820. The Hecla was re-commissioned by Cuptaiii 'Creorge Francis Lyon, on the fourth of January following. The officers who had accompanied Captain Parry in his former expedition, who were desirous of entering on this service, had the preference given to them, and such of the crews as went on the former voyage, were preferred, so far as they were considered fit for the service. The Reverend George Fisher was appointed astronomer, at the rccom- C4 PARRY S UliCOND VOYACli l^ i ri'l 1 . ; i it l-^'l I' 1; rli t J: mendation of the President and Council of the Royal Soci- ety, and who also was to act as chaplain to the expedition. The ships were strengthened by every means which could be devised, to enable them to sustain the rough seas they were expected to encounter. The ships being of equal size, the foremasts and main masts, as well as other timbers 01 each ship, were exactly the same in size, so as to readily 6t either vessel in case repairs should be required or any accident take place. It had on former occasions been tha usual custom to fit out one of the vessels of lesser burthen, that she might be able to go into shoaler water in circum stances of necessity ; but Captain Parry remarks that all such purposes are much better answered by boats, which can be equipped and dispatched on such emergencies in Nautilus Transport, wliirh we have directed the Navy Hoard (o place at your disposal, (for the purpose of oarry- inf«' a proportion of your provisions and stores across the Atlantic and Davis' Strait.) yo\i an; to proceed as quickly as may be consistent with every precaution to avoid any risk of your parting;' company from either the one ship or the other, towards, or into, Hudson's Strait, juitil you shall meet with the ice, when you are to take the first fa- Aourahle opportunity of chniriug the Nautilus Transport of the provisions and stores she is chargiul with for the Fury audllecla; and haviuf? so done, you are to send the said transport back to Fntrland, so as to prevei t her incurring any risk of receiving injury amongst the ice, reporting by that opportunity your proceedings to our Secretary for our information. After having so cleared and dispatched the Transport, you are, with the two ships of His Majesty under your or- ders, to penetrate to the westward through Hudson's Strait, until you reach, either in Repulse Hay or on other part of the shores of Hudson's 15ay, or to the north of Wager River, some part of the coast which you may feel convinced to be a portion of the Continent of America. You are then to keep along the line of this coast to the northward, aiways examining every bend or inlet which may appear to you likely to afford a practicable passage to the westward, in which direction it is the principal object of your voyage to endeavour to find your way from the Atlantic into the Pa- cific Ocean. In the event of your having consumed the open weather TO IME NOltrir I'Ol.r. 07 avo thought I'iXprdition ; ut. to 8(!ii in nundor has ■to with you il the Navy (SO of carry- I across tiio , as quickly I avoid any ;)no ship or :, until you the first fu- IVansport of or the Fury nd the said or incurring o|)orling' by tary for our Transport, lor your or- lludson's or on other h of Wager 1 convinced ou are then rd, always ear to you istward, in voyage to to the Pa- m weather in the examination of tho northern boundaries of liudson'g or Cumberland Straits, and of your having, at the close of the s(!ason, returned into Davis' Strait or Jiaiiind JJay, or if you should have made no considerable progress to the westward or northward in any inlet you may have found, it will be for you to consider, under all the circum- stances of the case, whether it may not bo expedient that you should return to England to replenish, refit, and re- fnish, rather than winter on a part of the coast which you might reach again next season as early as would be neces- sary for prosecuting your further incpiiries. The ju(l;;rnent which you have shewn in the conduct of the late Expedi- tion, and the experience which you have ac(|uired, induce us to trust this point to your own discretion, on a view of all the difl'erent circumstances which may exist at tho time w hen your determination is to be formed. Should you be so successful as to lind a practicable pas- sage from the one sea lo the other, you are to make; tlie best of your way in accomplishing that object, without stopping to examine the north coast of America, or for any other object not of imperious importance; but when the ships are checked in their progress by ice, or other unavoidable tT cumstances, you will take every opportunity of examin ug the coasts you may be near, and making ali useful observa- tions relating thereto. Should you happily reach the Pacific, you are io proceed to Kamschatka, (if you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast,) for the purpose of delivering to the Russian governor duplicates of the journals and other documents which the passage may have supplied, with a request that they may be forwarded over land to St. Petersburgh, to be conveyed from thence to London. From Kamschatka you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, or Canton, or such other place as you may think i)roper, to relit the ships and refresh the crews; and if during your stay at such place a safe opportunity should K 2 68 parry's SKCOND VOYAllI-; fl) !1 : 'H^.j^rir t occur of sending papers to England, you sliould send dupli- cates by such convejance. And after having refitted and re freshed, you are to lose no time in returning to England by such route as you may deem most convenient. It may happen that your, progress along the north coast of the American Continent may be so slow as to render it desirable that, if you should not be able to accomplish your passage into the Pacific earlier than the Autumn of 1824, you should be assured of finding a depot of provisions at that period in the most advanced situation to which they can safely be conveyed. In the event then of our not re- ceiving from you such intelligence as may render the mea- sure unnecessary, we shall, about the close of the year 1823, direct the Commander-in-chief on the South American station to dispatch a vessel with a supply of provisions and stores, so as to be at Behring's Strait about August or Sep- tember, 1824. The commander of this vessel will be di- rected to make the best of his way round Cape Prince of Wales, where he may expect, as we are informed, to find an inlet in latitude 68° 30 , in which Captain Kotzebue is stilted to have found anchorage a few years since. He will be directed to lie in that anchorage, or in the nearest good anchorage he may find to that latitude ; and he will be or- dered to erect,' in the most prominent and visible situation, a flagstaff for your direction. As it is possible that you may touch at the Sandwich Islands, this Officer will be directed to call at Owhyhee, in order that if you should have passed to the southward, he may not be put to the incouveniejce of going on to Cape Prince of Wales. Whenever the season shall be so far advanced as to make it unsafe to navigate the ships, on account of the long nights having set in, and the sea being impassable, on ac- count of ice, you are, if you should not return to England, to use your best endeavours to discover a shelteied and safe harbour, where the ships may be placed in security for the TO TMF. NO II I'M POLK. 00 lorth coast I render it nplish your n of 1824, ovisions at Fhich they 3ur not re- r the mea- year 1823, American ivisions and ust or Sep- will be di- e Prince of ined, to find tCotzebue is He will Barest good ■will be or- e situation, bat you may be directed e passed to ivenieace of as to make f the long ible, on ac- to England, ed and safe rity for the winter, taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people under your command, as the materials with which you are supplied for housing in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do. And when you find it ex- pedient to resort to this measure, if you should meet with any inhabitants, whether Esquimaux or Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in your power, to cultivate a friendship with them, by mak- ing them presents of such ai deles as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them. You will, however, take care not to suifer yourself to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly on your guard against any hostility. You will endeavour to prevail on them by such reward, and to be paid in such manner as you may think best to an- swer the purpose, to carry to any of the Settlements of the Hudson's Bay or North- West Companies, an account of your situation and proceedings, with an urgent request that it may be forwarded to England with the utmost possible dispatch. We deem it right to caution you against suffering the two vessels placed under your orders to separate, except in the event of accident or unavoidable necessity ; and we desire you to keep up the most unreserved communications with the Comuiinder of the Hecla, placing in him every proper confidence, and acquainting him with the general tenor of your orders, and with your views and intentions, from time to time, in the execution of them ; that the service may have the full benefit of your united effbrts in the prosecution of such ii service, and that, in the event of unavoidable sepa- ration, or of any accident to yourself, Captain Lyon may have the advantage of knowing, up to the latest practicable period, all your ideas and intentions relative to a satisfixc- tory completion of the undertaking. We also recommend that as frequent an exchange take pluce us conveniently may be, of the observations made in 70 parry's sbcond voyage ■ 1' i P r': 1 ■. m the two ships ; that nny scientific discovery made by the one, be as quickly as possible communicated for the advantage und guidance of the other, in making their future observa- tions, and to increase the chance of the observations of both being preserved. "We have caused a great variety of valuable instruments to be put on board the ships under your orders, of which you will be furnished with a list, and for the return of •which you will be held responsible; and we have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council of the Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Fury the Rev. Mr. Fisher, who is represented to us as a gentle- man well skilled in Astronomy, Mathematics, and various branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such ob- servations as may tend to the improvement of Geography and Navigation, and the advancement of science in general. Amongst other subjects of scientific inquiry, you will particularly direct your attention to the variation and in- clination of the uiagnetic needle, and the intensity of the magnetic force , vou will endeavour to ascertain how far the needle may be affected by the atmospherical electricity, and what effect may be produced on the electrometic and magnetic needles on the appearance of the Aurora Borealis. You will keep a correct register of the temperature of the air, and of the sea at the surface, and at different depths. You will cause frequont observations to be made for ascer- taining the re*', otioij, and what effect may be produced by observing an object, either cf If tial or terrestrial, over a field of ice, a- compared with objects observed over a sur- face of water ; together with such other meteorological remarks 'as you may have opportunities of making. You are also Vo attend particularly to the height, direction, and strength, of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the currents; the depth and soundings of the sea, and the na- ture of the bottom, for wliich «urnose you aro supplied with m M'- -,— .rf->*.-Wa»«^_ ^^.^f --- -, ^.-_.^.^r- TO THK NORTH POLK. n science in an instrument better calculated to bring up substances than the lead usually employed for this purpose. And you are to understand, that although the linding a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main object of this expedition, and that the ascertaining the Northern boundary of the American Continent is the next, yet that the different observations you may be enabled to make, with regard to the magnetic influence, as well as such other ob- servations as you may have opportuniiies of making in Na- tural History, Geography, &c. in parts of the globe so little known, must prove most valuable and interesting to science; and we therefore desire you to give your unremitting atten- tion, and to call that of all the officers under your command, to these points, as being objects of the highest importance. And you are to direct Mr. Fisher to be particularly careful to keep an accurate register of all the observations that shall be made, precisely in the same forms, and according to the same arrangements, that were followed by Captain Sabine on the late voyage ; — into whose charge are also to be given the several chronometers with which you have been sup- Dlied. And although, as already specified, you are not to b« drawn aside from the main object of the service on which you are employed, as long as you may be enabled to make any progress, yet, whenever you may be impeded by the ice, or find it necessary to approach the coasts of the con- tinent or islands, you are to cause views of bays, harbours, headlands, &c. to be carefully taken, the better to illus- trate the charts you may make, and the places you may discover, on M'hich duty you will be more particularly assisted by Captain Lyon and Mr. Bushnan Assistant Sur- veyor You are to make use of all the means in your power to collect and preserve such specimens of the Animal, Mine- ral, and Vegetable Kingdoms, as you can conveniently stow on hoard the ships ; saltinir in casks the skins of the hV- • ■■!S\^^ i! '■ \ \ ] .' ^ ^,^ I 73 PAKRY8 SECOND VOYAGE larger animals, as well as causing accurate drawings to be made to accompany and elucidate the descriptions of them ; in this, as well as in every other part of your scientific duty, we trust that you will jeceive material assistance from Mr. Fisher, and the other Officers under your com- mand. In the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the two . iips, you are to cause the Officers and Crew of the disabled ship to be removed into tli(! other, and with her singly to proceed in prosecution of the voy- age, or return to England, according as cir'umstances shall appear to require ; understanding that tli^ Officers and Crews of both ships are hereby authorized and re- quired to continue to perform their duties according to their respective ranks and stations, on board eithojr ship to which they may be so removed, in the event of an occurrence of this nature. Should unfortunately your own ship be the one disabled, you are in that case to take the command of the Hccla ; and in the event of any fatal accident happening to yourself, Captain Lyon is hereby authorised to take the command of the Expedition, either on board the Fury or Hecla, as he may prefer, placing the officer who may then be next in senic rity to him, in com- mand of the second ship; also in the eve&t of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to continue to carry these Instruc - tions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Lyon, or to the surviving officer then next in command to you, en\- ployed on the expedition, who is hereby required to execute them in the best manner he can for the attainment of the se- veral objects in view. His Majesty's Government having appointed Captain Franklin to the command of an Expedition to explore the northern coast of North America, from the mouth of the Coppermine River of Hearne, eastward, it would be desir- able, if you should reach that coast, that you should mark your progress by ert»;ting a flagstafl' in a few of the most I :r^ TO TIIK NORTH POLE. mgs to be 3 of them ; r scientifu; assistance your com- ppening to Kllcers and , tlie other, of the voy- rcumstanccs til O dicers sed and re- s accordioo; 3oard eitho* 1 the event jnfortunately that case to ivent of any lin Lyon is Expedition, fer, placing him, incom- our inability, hese Instruc- aptain Lyon, to you, em- id to execute nt of the se- ted Captain o explore the mouth of the ,uld be desir- should mark of the most eoDvtnieiit an4 distinguishable points which you may luc- .owBiTely trisit^ and you are tu bury at the foot of each staff » bottle, containing such information as may be useful to Ca|;)tain Franklin, and such further particulars respecting your own proceedings as you may think pro|>er to add ; cor- responding instructions having been given to Ctiptain Franklin to leave a similar notice at any convenient part of the coast which he may discover between the mouth of the said river and. the eastern part of North America. And in the eyenit 9f your getting to tbc we^itward ofHeonie's river, you should occasionally do the same witli a view to multiply the chances of our hearing of your progress. In the event of your finding Captain Frunklin and his party on any part of the coast of America, (which being possible, you sliould look out for and attend to any signals that may be displayed on the shores,) you are, if he should wish it, to receive him and his party into His Majesty's ships under your command, bearing them as supernumeraries for victuals until you re- turn, or you have other means of forwarding them to Eng- land. You are, whilst executing the service pointed out iu n^j» Skeoch, Assistant Surgeon. Mp^hre. Henderson, Crozier, ) Ro«r>, and Bushnan, S ^»»'«hipnien. James Halsc, Clerk. James Scullon, Gunner. William Smith, Boatswain. George Fiddis, Carpenter. John Allison, Greenland Master. George Crawford, Greenland Mate. With 43 inferior officers and seamen. On hoard the Hecla. Gf^orge Francis Lyon, Commander. Henry Parkyns Hoppner, 1 Charles Palmer, J Lieutenants. Alexander Fisher, Surgeon. John Jermain, Purser. Allan M'Laren, Assistant Surgeon., >i ■fv :f^ ACR April, 1B«3, Q. C0C«BURN, H. HOTHAM, O. Clekk. on board the two inder. lin and Astronomer. aants. >o. • int Surgeon. Vliciehipmen. 'am. Iter. mid Master, and Mate, seamen. mander. (tenants. ;eon. er. itant Surgeon. TO rilK NolMH POI.K. 75 Mf'sHis, Slii'ier, Ridiiirds, 7 GrilfliliH.and Ui.d, .... J Miilshipmen. W. Mo^r;,^ Clerk. JoHf|)li Macklin, Gunn«r. Josepli Lilley, Boatswain. Charles Parfer, Carpenter. Geurjf,: Fife, Greenland V ■>«*»r. Alexander Eldi r, Greenland Mat* With a otlit:. olllufi's and seamen. The two ships, with the ^fuulllus transport laden vihU j)roviHiuns, lul't the Non- on thi' 8(li uf May, und on the J4(h of June encuuntered the first ice-herg In the entrance uf David's Strait ; and huviiii; here cleared the Nautilus of tier provisiuus, and diapiitched her homewards, they made sail to the westward, und proceeded up Hudson's Strait with as much speed as contrary winds, tides, currents, and floes of ice always in motion, would permit ; the last of which usually, perhaps invariably, hamper all ships that attempt to pass through them previous to the month of August ; so much more difficult is the navigation of this strait, than that of ]>avis or Baffin's Bay, which are open and navigable, with little or no risk, as early as the month of May. On the iirht of July they passed a whaler apparently homeward bound and deeply laden. On the 14th they saw three ships belonging to the Hudson's Bay factories, carrying settlers for the Hed River. The wind blowing a ghle, the ice suddenly closed, and nearly carried theUecIa's bowsprit away. The Fury also received a severe pressure, making her timbers crack, but being so strongly built and fortified for this service, the injury she sustained was not material. Captain Parry on the succeeding day sent to re- quest a visit from the master of one of the ships in sight. Accordingly Mr. Davidson, the master of the Prince of Wales, went on board the Fury. He said that they had on bo.ird one hundred and sixty settlers for the Red River. L 2 A IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^■28 12.5 u m 112.2 1.1 2.0 1.8 11-25 11.4 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation jfJ^. 4^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 \ ■ f'i ,. , parry's second voyage TliRy consisted of males and females of diflEerent ages. Be- fore parting they Sent letter)} on board for England, to tlieir different friends, and also dispatches to the Government, with particulars of their passage hitherto. 'J'hey continued to proceed slowly to the westward until the 21st, when in latitude 01" 50' they fell in with several islands; and the wind changing, they anchored to an ice- berg. They had not been long in this situation, before they observed a number of canoes putting off from the shore and making towards the ships. On approaching the ships, they hauled their canoes up ou the ice, and without delay or ti- midity tnanifested a desire to trade. The commodities they brought with them consisted of the skins of seals, bears, foxes, defer, &c. whalebone, spears, and blubber. It was soon manifest that they had been accustomed to trade in this way, and that they were for procuring tlie best articles iu their estimation for the commodities they had to dispose of. Knives, rdils and pieces of iron were offered them in return, and the manecYures of the keenest trader were ma- nifested by them in driving their bargains ; and when they had, in their own judgment, obtained a valuable return, they manifested their satisfaction by jumpingabout and other uncouth modes. As had been observed of the Esquimaux in tlie River Clyde on tlie former voyage, they always licked with their tongues whatever articles they obtained, and then they appeared to consider the contract as binding. This party of Esquimaux consisted of seventeen persons ; and they were quickly followed by another party consisting of several women and four men with skins, oil and blubber. These latter were so extremely tenacious of obtaining a high price from the people of the Fury, that only a part was pur- chased by them, and the Esquimaux thinking to drive a bet- ter bargain, quitted this ship and rowed to the Hecla, where however they ultimately said their oil at a lower price than had been offered them by the other ship. Several otiier boats afterwards came from the shore, each boat contamiug TO Til 11 NOltTII VOI.K. n from fourteen to about twice that number of persons, a great part being females ; so tlmt not less lUan an hundred or more of the natives paid them a visit in the course of the day. These people were extremely disposed to pilfer, and to possess whatever they could lay their hands on. Their as- surance and want of shame when detected in such attempts was not less than the bold and daring manner in which they made their efforts. Their manner of feeding was most disgusting and filthy. They licked the oil which remained attached to the skins the ships crew had just emptied, and eat the raw blubber, the appearance and smell of which were extremely disgusting^ This disgust however excited the mirth of the Esquimaux ; and they would follow the .people, with a piece of blubber or raw meat dripping with oil and filth, inviting them to eat. Two of the women expressed a strong desire to sell their children, which it was supposed they would have parted with Tor articles of small value. On the 22ud, the wind be- coming favourable, the ships made sail up the strait to the westward, and they 'began to make considerable progress. They continued sailing till the 31st, passing several is- lands. They saw also a number of seals and a sea-horse, also some fish were noticed as jumping out of the water, which were supposed to be salmon. Thelatitude was 64° 1', and longitude 75° 48'. They saw a number of islands sprinkled along the const ; and at a distance to the south-west, had a sight of Salisbury Island. In the afternoon they perceived an oomiak or large boat of the Esquimaux, making sail to- wards them, together with several canoes. The ships lay to for them to come near. The boat contained sixteen per- sons, almost the whole of them women and children, and having traded with them for a short time, the ships proceeded on their way. The next day they passed Nottingham Is- land, and were visited by other Esquimaux in canoes and one oomiak. They exchanged a few articles with them for some skin dresses, some tusks of the walrus, and some oil. 78 parry's second voyage 'I am tU/ "4 m These people brought also a variety of toys, as spears, bows ODd arrows, a canoe with jtaildles, all of a diminutive size. Many of their jackets, particularly tbobe of the women, were lined with the ttkin* of birds, having their feathers in- ward. The ships made considerable way during the night, but in the following morning they found themselves so beset with ice as to prevent their progress, and the shipo re- ceived many violent blows from the moving masses. Their latitude was now 64" 59' and their longitude 70* 40 ; and being arrived at that point from whence the new discoveries were to commence, it became a matter of most serious ques* tion in Wliat rout to direct the further progress of the ships ; and after much consideration Captain Parry resolved to direct his attention to the examination of the continental coast from Cape Hope northwards. Having thus far de- termined, another consideration presented itself; whether to make the circuitous rout round the south-end of South- ampton Island, or attempt a direct passage through the Frozen Strait. The one route would require them to sail the distance of one hundred and seventy leagues before they reached the point where their operations were to commence, while the passage through the Frozen Strait would not ex- ceed fifty leagues ; a matter of no small moment in sailing through these icy seas. He came to the determination of attempting the passage of the Frozen Strait ; not, he says, without considerable anxiety lest the non-existence of the ait, or the insuperable obstacle of its frozen state, should aud to the loss of time which now could so ill be spared. Having come to this determination, the ships had to wait till some change in the state of the ice became favourable to their progress, until the middle of the day. On the 4th of August the prospect was most unpromising ; when almost on a sudden, the sea became navigable by the ice separating in a most extraordinary manner, evidencing the peculiari- ties attached to the navigation of these seas, shewing the % f M •!? Si u TO THE NORTH POLB. 79 ipeara, bows inutive size. the women, feather* in- e night, but res so beset le shipfi re- ises. Their ro* 40 ; and r discoveries lerious ques* of the ships ; resolved to i continental thuj far de- elf; whether id oi' South- through the them to sail s before Ihey commence, ould not ex- ent in sailing irmination of not, he says, tence of the state, should e spared. 1 had to wait favourable to )n the 4th of when almost :e separating he peculiari- shewing the possibiUty of making progress at one period, which at another may become impenetrable. The ice now disappeared in the most rapid manner, and making sail to the westward, the ship soon made Southampton Island. After a run of abont forty mi'.es the ships were again obstructed by the ice, being in latitude 65** 22* and in longitude 8I*> 24'. Some of the floes or bodies of ice by which they were now beset, measured half a mile each way. They continued to force their way as opportunities offered of penetrating through the ice, and by experience discovered that their progress to the westward was best effected when the wind directly opposed them ; for a westerly wind always conveyed away large bodies of ice from that quarter, and left a large space of open water, through which, if they at- tended to the moment of the gale ceasing, they were able to make considerable progress. On the 13th the ships approached the entrance of the Strait, but the ice was too close to admit of their making much way, although they used every endeavour to warp the ships through. A strong breeze to the westward two days atter drove them a few miles back, but this was compensated by its clearing away the ice, and enabling the Fury to get forward : the Hecla however was so beset, and driven to the eastward as to lose sight of the Fury. Captain Parry, ac- companied by Mr. Ross, left the ship to make observations, and landed on Southampton Island. Carrying the boat above highwater mark, and making a tent of the sail of the boat, they passed the night on shore. They perceived traces of its having at some former period been occupied by Esquimaux. On the 22nd they found they had entirely passed through the Frozen Strait, and were unexpectedly in Riepulse Bay. Boats from the Fury and the Hecla were dispatched to land. They found the remains of at least sixty habitatious of the Esquimaux, but saw no inhabitants. A variety of artificial structures of these people and piles of stones, whick it was 60 PARRY '(4 SKCOND VOYAOK lil i ■ I supposed were ^t up as land marks to guide tliem wlien the ground was covered with snow, were also noticed. Lieu- tenant Palmer was dispatched with a boat to examine dif- ferent p^rts of the bay, agreeable to the directions of the Lords of the Axlmiralty; and it clearly appeared from the report he made, that there was no passage out of the bay to the westwardi but that it was surrounded by a continuity of land. It now remained for the expedition ta proceed alpng the coast to the northward, and examine any inlet which might present a prospect of a passage to the westward* After clearing Repulse Bay, they sailed along the northern shore of ..the Frozen Strait. Having approached on the twenty-tiiiid to the mouth of an opening, which preseqted a favourable prospect of a passage^ but which a body of ice filling up the channel rendered it impossible for the ships or boats to enter. Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr. Bush- nan and two seamen from each ship, was dispatched to land and examine it more particularly. They took a tent, blan- kets and four days provisions. Captain Parry cast anchor to wait his return ; but the loose and heavy ice at the mouth of the inlet came with great force, and gave the Fury some violent shocks, causing the anchor to drag, and ultimately broke off both the flukes, and polished the iron stock quite bright by rubbing against the rocks. On the 25th Captain Lyon returned with his party, and stated that the inlet appeared to be bounded by land at about jeven miles distance. In the course of his journey he passed the remains vi many Esquimaux habitations, but which did not appear to have been recently occupied. At another place they met with a variety of store rooms of these people, (as they supposed them to be.) They also passed a kind of paved walk, being an assemblage of flat stones, set up edgeways, each about three yards apart, ex- tending to the length of about five hundred yards. The wea- ther during utmost the whole of the time which Captain TO THE NORTH IK)LB. •1 'SI Lyon was absent, was rainy, or snowed, or was foggy, lo as to prevent his obtaining a satisfactory view of the coun- try, but his conclusion was the probability of the existence of a passage to the NE. Captain Lyon remained on board the Fury during the night, and arranged with Captain Parry the plan of their future operations. They concluded that there certainly was a communication between the Frozen Strait and a sea to the northward and eastward of it, and it was determined to use every effort to discover it. From the narrowness of the channel, the strength 'of the titles, and weight of the ice, there presented so many hazardous circumstances to their notice as induced them to resolve on finding some place of shelter for the ships, during the time necessary for examin- ing the passage. To seek for a secure situation therefore. Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr* Bushnan, again pro- ceeded. At this time the Fury was placed in a most perilous situ- ation. The night being very foggy, and the tide driving the ship too close to Passage Island, Captain Parry or- dered her to be got under sail that he might act as circum- stances should require. A large space of open water was observed at not more than a quarter of a mile distant ; but notwithstanding every effort, the tide was driving the ship between the island and a small rock lying to the eastward. Every exertion to resist this appearing useless, and the tide driving at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, their efforts were directed to keep her in mid-channel. Had they grounded, with the heavy masses of ice driving around them, every probability was that the ship would be wrecked ; but fortunately the ship drove through without sustaining any injury. At day-light on the twenty-sixth, after a most anxious night, they found themselves about the middle o< the Frozen Strait. The Hecla, having narrowly escaped a similar situation, rejoined her consort in the morninir. At eleven Captain Lyon proceeded to search for a place of safety P. V. 4. M farry'v cicon:) fOYAaR y for the ships, and rctiinietl at nine in the evening, itating that he had found a Hinall bay, which wns clear of ice, and which iikin case, containing u fow arrows and a bow. An (sxctiaiige was made witli them for one oftliese casen, for which a knife was given. At first they appeared a little ter* riAed, but a familiarity was soon established. The party expressing a desire to visit their habitations, the Esquimaux most readily led the way. The distance was about two miles, over very rough ground ; but these people tripped idong with a nimbleness which the English could not follow. As they drew near their dwellings, two women with children on their backs cnme out to meet them. Their tent or dwel- lint; place was situated on a rising ground, commanding n view of the sea. Sliortly after their arrival two children Joined them. Only three persons occupied this tent, the iinbitations of the others being farther distant. These peo- ple were more cleanly than most of the Esquimaux they had formerly met with, both in their persons and in their Iinbitations. As soon ns n familiarity was established they began to nsk for iron, and they were invited to accompany the party to the boats, with an assurance that they should Itave some. Although previously they had manifested a propriety of be- haviour ; yet no sooner were they arrived to the boats, and ench party in some measure engaged with the other in mak- ing them acquainted with the use of the oars, &c. but the women busily employed themselves in pilfering whatever they could secrete, and conveying the articles into their boots, which in the women are always remarkably large, and have openings at the sides capable of obtaining considerable bulk. They managed this with such dexterity that till Mr. Sherer wanted a cup which was required at supper, no sus- picion arose of what was taking place Upon this being missed, a general search was maile, and the boots of the fe- males emptied of their ill-got wealth, and the whole party were dismissed with proper marks of disapprobation of their conduct. On the 1st of October, ju3t as tbey completcil the cxa- . i fl6 PAURT'S SI'COND voyack ^1 HI ,1 mination of the several inlets of the continent, unequivocAl ■ymptomfl of winter setting in were but too apparent. The tbermometer had for several days past permanently fallen below the freeiing point, and sometimes as low as 3(f at night ; which change, together with the altered appearance of the land, and the rapid formation of young ice near the shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach of win- ter. The commencement of this dreary season in thcHe re- gions, may, indeed, be fairly dated from the time when the earth no longer receives and radiates heat enough to melt the snow which fulls upon it. When the land in ouce covered with this substance, so little calculated to favour the absorption of heat, the frigorific process seems to he carried on with increased vigour, defining very clearly th« change from summer to winter, with little or no internio- diate interval to which the name of autuinu can be ditt* tinctly assigned. On the 8th the thermometer stood at zero, and the sea was covered with young ice. The nature and efTect of tliis very teasing substance are thus described by Captain Parry. The formation of young ice upon the surface of the wnter is the circumstance which most decidedly begins to put a stop to the navigation of these seas, and warns the seaman that his season of active operations is rcarly at an end. It is indeed scarcely possible to conceive the degree of liindor- anoe occasioned by this impediment, trifling as it always appears before it is encountered. When the sheet has ac- quired a thickness of about half an inch, and is of consider- able extent, a ship is liable to be stopped by it, unless favoured by a strong and free wind ; and even when still retaining her way through the water, at the rate of a mile an hour, her course is not always under the controul of the helmsman, though assisted by the nicest attention to the action of the sails, but depends u])on some accidental in- crease or decrease in the thickness of the sheet of ice, with which one bow or the other comes in contact. Nor is it '■A A I TO rUK NORTH fOI^E. powible in Un« itituatioii Tur the boats to render their ututl uMiBtance, by ruiiniiifp out liiiet, or otherwiae ; for having oiioe entered the young ice, tliey can only be propelled slowly througji it by digging the oars and boat-hooks into it, at the same time breaking it across the bows, and by rolling the boat from side to side. After continuing this la- borious work for some time, with little good effect, and considerable damage to the planks and oars, a boat is often obliged to return the same wuy that she came, backing out ill the canal thus formed to no purpose. A ship in this lielpless state, her sails in vain expanded to a favourable breese, her ordinary resources failing, and suddenly arrested in her course upou the element through wiiioh 8he has been accustomed to move without restraint, has often reminded me of Gulliver tied down by the feeble hands of Lilliputians ; nor are the. struggles she makes to effect a release, and the apparent insignificance of the means by which her efforts sre opposed, the least just or the least vexatious part of the "esemblunce. . All these circumstances pointed out the expediency of immediately placing (he ships in the best security that could he found for them during the winter. A small island lying off the point where the continent begins to trend to the northward, was found to afford, at its southern side, good anchorage ; and having here suffered the ships to be froien up, they gave to it the name of Winter Island. Every precaution was now taken for the preservation of the boats, sails, and other stores, during the season ; and' arrangements were made for the comfort and amusement of the men. Captain Parry observes, that it would be diffi- cult to imagine a situation in which cheerfulness is more to be desired, or less likely to be maintained, than among a set of persons (and those persons seamen too) se- cluded for an indefinite period from the rest of the world ; having little or no omployment but th&t which is in a man- lier created to prevent idleneHs, and subject to n degree of r 8R varry's sbcund voyagu ''■'■'i? f ■ t « I tedious dionotony, ill according with their usual habits. Nothing can be more just ; and it is therefore of the utmost Importance that constant employment, and a habit of cheer- fulness should be kept up by men so situated ; it being well known that there exists an intimate connexion between de- pression of mind, and that dreadful disorder the scurvy ; that hope and joy not only prevent, but materially aid in the cure of it, while gloom and despair never fail to aggra- vate its fatal malignity. As a source, therefore, of amusement to the people. Captain Parry renewed those theatrical entertainments from which they had derived so much benefit at Melville Island, on a former voyage, and on a larger and more commodious scale, while the theatre was improved in its de- corations, and, what was of more importance, in its warnith> Sylvester's stove, in a few hours after lighting it, dissipated every drop of moisture which was found so annoying on the former expedition : the stream of air on the lower deck was generally 120^ of Fahrenheit ; that in the cabin near the ap- paratus, 100^, and at the end of the flue, in Captain Parry's cabin, forty-six feet from the air vessel, from QSP to 72*. when the mean temperature of the atmosphere was about zero: t'^is diffused warmth generally over the whole ship and kept her perfectly dry. On some evenings they had music ; and on others (to furnish rational and useful occu- pation,) a school wai established in both ships for the in- struction of those who might choose to avail themselves of this advantage ; and Captain Parry, who visited them fre- quently, observes, that he seldom experienced feelings of higher gratifioatiou than in this rare and interesting sight : aiid it is truly gratifying to learn that, on the return of the ships to England, * every man on board could read his Bible.' In these pursuits, blended with a proper degree of exercise, the shortest day is said to have passed over their heads without any of that interest which, on a former voy- age, constituted a sort of era in tlieir winter's calendar. 9 TO THE NORTH POLK. m lual habits, the utmost >it of cheer- t being weli >etween de- the scurvy; rially aid in il to aggra- tbe people, iertainments t at Melville !r and more red in its de> I its wamitli- t, dissipated loying on the ver deck was near the ap- ptain Parry's 1 65<» to 72». re was about 8 whole ship^ igs they had useful occu« s for the in- lemselvcs of ed them fre- feelings of ssting sight: return of the uld read bis )er degree of ;d over their former voy- 's calendar. * Our winter,' observes Captain Parry, * was no longer an experiment : our comforts were greatly increased ; and the prospect of an early release from the ice as favourable as could be desired.' In short,* he adds, * what with read- ing, writing, making and calculating observations, ob< serving the various natural phenomena, and taking the ex- ercise necessary to preserve our heatth, nobody, 1 believe, ever felt any symptoms of ennui during our continuance in ^vinter quarters.* ^ , .„;, . But, perhaps, the greatest of all their amusements, and that \(rhich excited the highest degree of interest, was the unexpected appearance, on the 1st of February, of a number of strange people coming towards the ships over the ice. A party who went out to meet them soon discovered them to be Esquimaux, who, on coming up, presented a few blades of whalebone, either as a peace-offering, or for barter, moat probably the latter. Seme of the women wore handsome clothes of deer-skin, which attracted the attention of the party : on observing tliis, they began, says Captain Parry, to our utter astonishment and consternation, to strip, though the thermometer stood at 23° below zero. All ap- prehension on this score, however, was soon reliuved by finding that they were comfortably clothed in a double suit of deer-skin. Having purchased whatever they had to sell and made them several presents, they were given to understand that it was the wisli of the English to visit their huts ; which they very readily agreed to, and both parties set out to- getlier. In their way thither tlie Esquimaux were much mused by a Newfoundland dog which had been taught to fetch and carry. It cannot but be considered as a remarkable circumstance that these people, to the amount of more than sixty persons, men, women and children, should have erected their huts and establislied themselves on a spot witiiin view of the ships, without having been observed by any of the people P. V. 4. N MD PAttRY'B SECOND VOYAGE ..ii- N ' i r on liaard, and to apip&aranoe as complete aa though they had been long erected. They were formed entirely of snow «nd toe, in the form of a dome, the entrance being low and ^ui the side, through a passage containing two door ways which were arched. From the first apartment, other arched ^oor ways led into recesses or other apartments which were •severally occupied, and the women were seen surrounded with the Tsritnis utensils of their housdfaolds, their children and their dogs near them. These apartments were about «even fieet high rn the centre, and each had a piece of ice, fofmrng a window, placed in the roof. Various articles were given to or bartered with tliera for other commodities, and no occasion was on this visit given to suspect their fair- ness of dealing. After spending some time with them, the people set out on thnr retnm accompanied by some of the Esquimaux, who 4id not manifest that surprise which might have been ex- pected on being introduced to such novelties as presented themselves to their notice. They were greatly delighted on going on board the Hecia, at hearing the fidler play and the men dancing, and joined in the amusement with much apparent glee and satisfaction. They then returned to their huts. The next day a large party paid a visit to their huts, and were cheerfully welcomed. They dined in the huts and presented their new acquaintance with some of their meat and biscuit, which they gladly received. A little wine was afterwards given to them, but it did not meet their taste. On one of their visits to the ships they were requested to build a snow hut, whicti they proceeded to do, and in about three hours formed one of these habitations, placing a piece uf ice at the top to admit the light ; and in forming it both men and women were employed. The officers having naturally selected different individuals to obtain information from and to make enquiries, found it produced a settled intimacy : one intelligent youth, wljo ] TU TUB NORTH PQI.B. &K at though they entirely of snow le being low and two door ways ent, other arched ents which were »een surrounded 8, their children lents were about d a piece of ice, ous articles were imroodities, and speet their fair- people set out on i!squimaux, who t have been ex- ies as presented atly delighted on fidler play and ment with much len returned to ) their huts, and n the huts and e of their meat i little wine was leet their taste, re requested to o, and in about lacing a piece of brmiiig it both rent individuals inquiries, found ent youth, wlio attached himself to Captain Lyon, told him that he bad seen, persons Like themselves some months previous. Sup' posing that this intercourse afforded an opportunity of con- veying intelligence to England, Captain Parry desired he might be furnished with a letter and requested him to coa- vey it to them should he meet with such people again. It appears that these people were often in want of neces- sary food, being very improvident ; devouring with greedi- ness large quantities of food when they bad kdled a seal or other animal, although it was in a most filthy and disgusting state, not being cleaned either from blood or dirt ; but at other times when unsuccessful they were in a state of starv- atioo, and it' does seem that some of them would have pe- rished bad not they been supplied from the ship with bread- dust. This supply was afforded them on several occasions, and some of them were found gnawing a piece of hard seal- skin with the hair on it. The want of food is also generally accompanied with the want of ^ght and warmth, as on such occasions they arc also without oil to burn, so that it is altogether a state of the greatest wretchedness. In these circumstances also tkey could obtain no water, but swal- lowed the snow to quench their thirst. The Esquimaux appear to exhibit a strange mixture of intellect and dulness, of cunning and simplicity, of inge- nuity and stupidity : few of them could count beyond five, and not one of them beyond ten ; nor could any of them speak a dozen words of Englisli, after a constant inter- course of seventeen or eighteen months ; yet many of them could imitate the manners and actions of the strangers, and were, on the whole, excellent mimics. One woman in par- ticular, of the name of Iligliuk, very soon attracted the at- tention of the voyagers, by the various traits of that supe- riority of understanding for which, it was found, she was remarkably distinguished, and held in esteem even by her own countrymen. She had a great fondness for singing, possessed a soft voice, niid an pxccIUmU ear ; l)iit there was N 2 vW 92 PAURYS SKCOND VOYAOE l\ f l\ m r^l i I m i 1^ mf scarcely any stopping her when she had once begun : she wouhl listen, however, for hours together to the tunes played on the organ. She seemed to be aware of her own superiority, and betrayed, on several occasions, a conscious pride of it. But the superior intelligence of this extraordinary woman was perhaps most conspicuous in the readiness with which she was made to comprehend the manner of laying down, on paper, the geographical outline of that part of the coast of America she was acquainted with, and the neighbouring islands, so as to construct a chart. At first it was found diflUcuU to make her comprehend what was meant; but wrhen Captain Parry had discovered that the Esquimaux were already acquainted with the four cardinal points of the compass, for which they have appropriate names, he drew them on a sheet of paper, together with that portion of the coast just discovered, which was opposite to Winter Island, where they then were, and of course well known to her Having done this, he desired her to complete the rest ; accordingly with a countenance expressive of intelligence, she drew a chart of the coast, along her own country nearly north of Winter Island. Without taking her hand off the paper, she deputed the coast to the westward and to the south-west, within a short distance of Repulse Bay. The country situated on the shores to the westward she named Akkoolec, and said that it was inhabited by numbers of Esquimaux. Between Akkoolee and Repulse Bay she de- scribed a large lake in which were found abundance of fish and on its banks many herds uf deer. To the westward of these places she stated the existence of a vast and wide sea. A party once accompanied the Esquimaux on an excur- sion to catch seals. Seven of them, engaged in the same object, formed themselves into a kind of line, each covering or walking immediately behind the one before so as not to be TO THH NORTH rOLR. 9S egun : she the tunes >f her oyin i conscious ary woman with which ing down, >f the coast ighbouring was found neant ; but Esquimaux 1 points of names, he tial portion ; to Winter rvell known a the rest ; ntelligence, ntry nearly ind oif the and to the Bay. The she named numbers of Jay she de- ance of fish westward of t and wide I an excur« n the same ;)i covering as not to be seen in the direction tliey were moving. In this manner tliey approached a seal which was lying on the ice, preparing their lines and spears for the attack ; but after they had been, * more than an hour in making their approaches, the seal sud- denly took to the water and disappointed them of their prey. After this they turned their steps towards home, not a little alarmed at finding themselves a mile and a half from the shore, on a sheet of ice which might be drifted off to the sea, an accident which had occurred to former Esquimaux, and probably sometimes every soul had been lost, so that none survived to relate the misfortune. In moving lowards the shore they passed a small rising of the ice, which quickly drew the attention of one of the Esquimaux, who immediately stopped. It was stated that this was the work of a seal, who probably would work through and come upon the ice. While watching at this spot the man often placed his ear near the ice as if,to listen whether the seal w»s at work. On this occasion however there was no success. When out on the.se parties, if an Esquimaux has reason to suspect a seal is working beneath, he generally remains to watch until he has killed it. To protect himself from the cold wind he will raise a wall of snow, and will then sit for hours together, listening to the working of the seal through the ico. When the seal has worked its way to the surface, he drives his spear into the creature with all his force, hav- ing a line attached to the spear. He then clears away the ice and repeats the stroke if necessary until it is killed. On the 20th several vvcdves, which had for some days made their appearance, attacked a dog belonging to the Esqui- maux. Mr. Elder, the Greenland mate, witnessing the cir- cumstance, hastened to the spot with his gun, but though the dog made considerable resistance, the wolves had torn him in pieces before Mr.Elder could reach the spot, leaving only one of his hind legs. ^ On one occasion when a visit was paid to their huts, an 9S varht's suconu vuyagl '» it A \ Hi ^ EsquiiiMux had just brought in a seal. Two women with large knives in their hands, and besmeared with Mood, were cutting ap tbe animal, dividing it into two parts. The blood was then carefully put into the cooking pot, into which also aH loose bits were thrown, except that occasionally they eat it themselves, or gave a taste to tbe children and persons who surrounded them ; the yonngest being glad to receive into its open mouth a lump of the raw flesh. When the flesh is cut np, the blubber is lastly taken away. During the process it is a custom to slick pieces of the intestines or skin on the fore- heads of the boys, which they suppose will make them fortu- nate sea! hunters. On the 36th of February the Theatre closed with the comedy of the Citizen, and Hi^ Life below Stairs. At the conclusion of tbe performance t!ie ships' companies testified their thanks by three hearty ehei^TS. The month of March was now entered on, and the sun was more than ten hours above the horizon every day, but the earth presented one uniform white surface of snow. The ar- rival of the Esqtiimaux had indeed changed the scene of their amusements, and the time had passed away without their feeling any extraordinary solicitude as to its progress ; but those to whom the care of the expedition was entrusted, be- gan to look forward with earnestness for the opportunity of proceeding in the discoveries. However anxious their feelings, they had no alternative but patience; but the information they had obtained from Iligliuk suggested the advantage which would arise from an investigation of the coast by land, so far as was practicable while the ships remained frozen up in Winter Island. Captain Lyon offered to take the command of the party ; and one of the Esquimaux, Ayoket, Captain Lyon's friend, was invited to accompany them. It was proposed to make an excursion to Amitioke, Iligliuk's country. Ayoket, however, after much uncertainty and wavering, flrrlincd to be of the party, notwithstanding a brightly po- lislird brass kettle, of a larger size, and of much more ■>■? T« Tin; NORTH POLE. 8ft value than any present ibUherto made them,, was to be Ae recompense of Us j<»urney. An Esquimaux is ef a ciiarac- ter not to be nuch moved by the aoquishioD of property, and prefers a life of indolenue to any ndies wiiichf may be obtained by exertion. That part of ihe coast deKribed by Itigliuk, which the English had examined, was Jbund very correct ; and other «harta, which others of tlie Esqni—mx were desired to draw, without any concert widi«aoh oilMr, were foand to ai^e with Iligliuk's in a surprising degree. In- deed, they reo^vad information from these people on vari- ous useful matters, which were afterwards found to be cor- rect, when the ships came to the places described. On the Idth Oaptain Lyon left the ships, a breeze of wind blowing from the northward, aocompanied with mow drift. The first night after his departure was one of the most severe and inclement timt any of the people had been eKposed to, and excited considerable apprehensbn for their saifety among those remaining in the sh^ The wind and drift continued during the whole of the 16th, and considera- bly increased the solicitude for their safety, bnt to send a party in quest of them while the state of the weather was such, appeared in^ossibVe, as no traces cenld be had of the way they had tdcen, smd nnder snub cirovmstances it wonld add to the number of persons placed in perilous situations. A party was however held in readiness to proceed whenever the weather might moderate, when to {the great joy of all on board, they arrived at t^e ships. The sufferings which this party had endured during their Aott absence were severe in the extreme. Having as- cended a Ull to the northward, a strong wind blew the snow directly in their laces, and nmny of the party received se- vere frost bites. They proceeded towards a bay which had been observed, and afterwards descending suddenly arrived at the head of the bay. The extreme severity of the wea- ther determined C^ain Lyon to pitch their tents. Every one of the party smoaked tobacco to promote warmth, but .*<* •■1..W.. ■■i^y%. v.* HI 06 parry's SKCOND VOYAfiE the severity of the cold wub such that John Lee, one of the party, vros seized with a shivering fit and severe pains in his loins. A hole was dug in the earth to admit of receiving them in a sitting posture. A fire was made with diificultv, ^d a mess of warm soup was prepared for every man. After taking this refreshment, they crept into their blanket bags and endeavoured, by keeping close to each other, to obtain a little warmth and sleep. In the morning they made a fire and prepared a cup of warm tea, after which they resolved to sot o(it on their return to the ships, from which they supposed they were about six miles distant. Tlic wind being at their backs, they proceeded ratiior briskly, but the cold was so intense that some of the party began to exhibit symptoms of drowsiness and insensibility which is so common iind so fatal in intensely cold cli- mates. The faces of several were severely frost bitten, and they had lost the sense of feeling in their fingers and toes. Serjeant Spackman, though repeatedly warned that his nose was frozen, was in such u state of senselessness as to take no notice of the advice, and one side of bis face be- came frozen quite hard, the eye-lids stid", and part of the upper lip was drawn up. Four ot the party appeared to be in such a situation as to be incapable of surviving. In this state they unexpectedly came to a beaten track which fortu- nately soon led them to the ships. All had severe frost bites in diHerent parts of the body, which occasioned tlie loss of the flesh and slviii, but proper care being now taken of them, they all ultimately did well. Early in llie morning of the 2nd of April, the Esquimaux were observed moving from the huts, and several sledges drawn by dogs, heavily laden, went ofT to the westward. It appeared, on enquiry, that half of the people had gone over the ice in quest of food. On visiting the snow huts which they had just quitted they found that the places compos- ing their beds and fire-places were turned up and searched that no articles might be lost. The walls were stained TO TMB NORTH POLL 9V with tomp.blMk, blood, and other kind of ftlth, and wtra !■ pari domolithed and laid o|ieii, to giro them tbo pOKf roady opportuBUy of reaoving thoir goods. Tke nmainder of tha party wars out on tbi ioa ia pur- MiiC of wahruaiaa } and allhoiigli the ioa nat flofttiig and in dolMhMl maaaaa^ they aoanod to be iindt^r no ImMmii- aiaaa aa to the danger they wen in. The wind fttdhia tiM iNdeed set in for the land, and thia perbapt might lendfi thfloi eonfideat - On the 19th of April, another party of the Esquimaux be- gan to remove their eflfeots^'and lligUuk and her huaha«di and a fsw othert, eame on board to make a farewel visit, and said thst on the suooeediog day they all should remov* from Winter Island. A few presents were made to them on l||«i|| departure. At the close of the month of May it beoame a mttter of general observation, and of course of general regrel, hpw few symptoms of thawing liad yet appeared ; and it waa im- possible not to reoolleot that Melville Island bad, on the same day, two years before,, ndTaneed full as fa intkiofs* tag off its winter's eoreriog } that before this time, nl the latter station, they had experienced several hours of hard rain ; and that, in consequence, the ice around MelviHe l§r land had assumed a greeo appearance, while at WlotMr Iflh Isnd it remained perfectly white. Another oornpariaon man made between the two winter-quarters. The first flovnr wns brought on board as a matter of curiosity on the 0th June* which was one day later than it had made its tppear- a«s» at MeWUle Islaiftt. Again, in the middle of Juiui^ n feiT gallons of water were oolMtied from, some littli pook^ while, at the same date, at Mel^le Island, the fa<«iMa weoe bepamngjto be daogarone to pass, and were Mteallf ' impasisUe during the third week in June } yet Winter ISf land is sttuated in lat 6di«, or 6i* south of MeWiUe liland^ wUck lies ia lat. Uf. The lowest temperatoM at MeliviUf Island was 55% at Winter Ipland, 40*. P. V. 5. "* O ,/ ■ 1 i k '•'. ™w'l*' \i I "■* ,-,'fw i \i ' kilt ,'i : I it$ parry'i sboond voyagc ' '^'^•vlng nearly completed tiie ninth month at Winter 1e- landy on the 9dJttly» the ahlpe, partly by the exertionf at tlie men in sawing the ice, and partly by the wind drifting from Che land, finally effected their escape; doubled ihe seuth-eMi point of this part of America, and atood.to the northwwd up • Fox's Channel ; keeping tha coast of the pon- liaMtyB*' directed by their instructions, dose on board, and tailing In a channel of water from three or four handled yards to two miles in width. The shore. In most plaoesj was lined with old ice, while, to sea*ward, large floes and roaiNe were observed in violent motion, being acted upon 1^ the 'Wind, ourrenti and tides. By these agents, in so confined a channel, one of the ships was swept against the other; and- after some grinding and squeeiing, they escaped with the loss of one of the Hecla*s boats, which was em to pieces by the Fury's anchor. On the turn of the tide, •however, when both it and the current set to the south- wtird> the whole of the navigable channel, through which the ships were slowIy^ working their way, was almost imme- diately filled by a vast body of drift ice. '^^The flood-tide coming down loaded with a more than or- ,, dinary quantity of ice, pressed the ship very much, and ren- • dered it necessary to run out the stream cable, in addition to the hawsers {which were fast to the land ice. This vras scarcely accomplished when a very heavy md extensive floeii took the ship on her broadside, and beiiljg backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted her stem as if by die action of a wedge. The weight every moment increas- ing,' obliged the Heclato veer on theliawsers, whosefriction was so great as nearly to cut through thenitt-heads, and ul- timately set them on firf, so that it became requisite for peo- |t pie to attend with buckets of water. The pressure was at length too powerful for resistance, and the stream cable, with two six and one five inoh hawsers, went at the same mo- iMRti'Three others soon followed. The sea was too full <>>. ; li A .-jfi' i .**/.. ■^ . itii. '.:M'h''h TO THE NORTH POkB. I (90 of loe to allow thofhlp to drive, and tiieonly way bywhkob ■be 6ould yield to tbe eoorinoui vreigbt wblob oppreMedlier wMbyleauing over the land ioe, wbile hor itern «i'OM same time waa entirely lifted more than Avo feet out of the water. The lower dedi beams now complained very mUBb, tad 'th* whole frtaie of the ehip underwent i^ trial whlob wohld have proved fbtal to any lees etrengthenad vessol.., At thia moment the rudder was unhung with a audd^ J«ik» whioh broke up the rudder oaae and struck the driver boom with great force. The pressure whioh had been so dange- rous at length proved their fiiend, for by its inoreaaing weight the floe on whioh they were borne burst upwards, unable to resist its force. The sliip righted, and, a' small slack opening in the water, drove several miles to the south- ward before she could be again secured to get the rudder hung ; circumstances much to be regretted . at the momMt, as the people had been employed with but little iotormission for three days and nights, attending to the safety of the ship in this jdangerous tideway.' The Fury had almost as narrow an escape as the Heda ; a little before noon a heavy floe some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately detached from tbe shore, came driving down fast, giving serious reason to apprehend more fatal catastrophe than any yet encountered. In a few mi" nutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, with a point of the land-ice left the preceding nighC by its own separation; breaking it up with a tremendous crash, and forcing numberless immense masses, many! tons in weight, to the height of hfty or sixty feet, from whence they again rolled down on ttie inner or land side, and wore quickly succeeded by afresh supply. While they. wero obliged to be quiet spectators of this grand but terrific sights being witliin five or six hundred yards of the point, the dan-i ger was two-fold ; firsts lest the iloc should now swing in, secondly, lest its pressure should detach the land ice to M I: i], .i'.' M 'm ffd ■[\ ;M' PARHT'l tlCONll VOYAOB whlob tb« iMp WM faeurMl, Md thw Nt Umb ttMH Mid «l llw acMj of Ibe tid«^ Happily bowtvM atUker of «Imw MMf«d» Ito ioe fftattelif ■Ulionary far lb* nit ^f -.,, '^ ■■■:'' i.-jiUfi The Christmas of this year was kept as a festival. An additional allowance of provisions was issued, among which was a piece of beef which had been killed on board the Nau- tilus in the month of June 1821. In the months of December and January the Esquimaux had spread themselves widely around the space occupied by the ships, in order as was supposed to have greater oppor- tunities of fishing. They departed from their habitations ia so quiet and peaceable a manner, that their removal had sometimes taken plr.'c for several days previous to the peo- ple on board the snips having any intimation of their having left the neighbourhood. At this time great numbers of the Esquimaux were labour- T(> THE NORTH POLE. Mi ing under severe sickness. Several deaths took place in consequence of their want of medical assistance, olthough, as soon as the knowledge of these circumstances came to the ears uf Captain Parry, every possible assistance was af- forded them. They were taken on board the ships, and part of the cabin screened off for their accommodation. Warm broth, and other food was given to them, and every effort used for their recovery and comfort. One family were taken on board the Hecla. Captain Lyon says, the mother, named Poo-too-alook, was aboutSS years of age, the child about three years, yet not weaned, and a fe- male ; there was also another daughter Shega, about twelve or thirteen years of age, who as well as her father was a most attentive nurse. My hopes were but small as far as con- cerned the mother, but the child was so patient that I hoped from its docility soon to accustom it to soups and nourishing food, as its only complaint was actual starvation. I screened off a portion of my cabin, and arranged some ^bedding for them, in the same manner as the Esquimaux do their own. Worm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin did won- ders before evening, and our medical men gave me great hopes. As an introduction to a system of cleanliness, and preparatory to washing the sick, who were in a most filthy state, I scrubbed Shega' and her father from head to foot and dressed them in new clothes. During the night I per- suaded both mother and child, who were very restless and constant!) moaning, to take a few spoonfuls of soup. On the morning of the 24th the woman appeared considerably improved, and she both spuke and ate a little. As she was covered with so thick a coating of dirt that it could be taken off iiv scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little before noon. The man and his daughter now came to my table to look at some things I had laid out to amuse them ; and after a few minutes Shega lifted the cur- tain to look at her mother, when she again let it fall and trembling told us she was dead. no parry's ujbcond voyagb fl m! ;• ■' N , i >■ The husbafld tigliecl bMvily^ the daughter bunt into t«Mt, and the poor little iafent mtde the moment more dii- treeiing by calling in a plaintive tune on ita mother, by whoae aide it waa lying. I determined on burying the woman on abonv and the hmband waa maoh pleased at my promising that the body ahould be drawn on a sledge by men instead •f doga. Takkelikkeeta, her husband, bad tuld me that when he left the huts with his wife, a dog was devouring the body of another Eaqniataux, as he passed it. Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and iathe first place atopped his nose with deer'a hair and put on hia gloves, seeming uawilling that his naked hand should eome ia contact with the corpse. I observed in this occupa- tioB his eare that every article of dress should be as oare- fuUy placed as when hia wife was living, and having drawn the boots on the wrong legs, he pulled them cflTagain and put them properly v this ceremony finished, the deceased was sewed up ia a hasamock,. and at the husband's argent request her face waa left uncoveredi. An officer who waa preaeoti at the time agreed witli me in fancying that the man, from his words and actions, intimated a wish that the living child roigbi be enclosed with its mother. We may have been mistaken, but there is an equal |)robability that ve were right in our conjecture ; for according to Crantz and Egede the Greenkmlers were in the habit of burying their mother- less infants from a persuasion that tliey must otherwise starve to death,, and also from being uoable to bear the cries of the little ones while lingering for several days without suste- nance ; for no woman will give them any share of their milk, which they cooaider as the exclusive property of their own oflbpring. My dogs being carefully tied up at the man's request, a party of our people accompanied by me drew tho body to the shore, where we made a grave about a foot deep, being unable to get lower on account of the frozen earth. The body was placed on its back at the husband's request, and he then stepped into the grave uud cut all the stitches H^ TO TUB NORTH POLB. m of the hammook, although nitbout throwing U open, aemn* ing to imply tliat the dead should be left unoonfined. I laid n vromaa's knife by the side of the body and we filled up the grave, over which we also piled a quantity of heavy stones which no animal could remove. When all was done and we returned to the ship, the man lingered a few minutes be^ hind us and repeated two or three sentenees, as if address^ ing himself to his departed wife; he then silently followed. We found Shega quite composed and attending her little ais^ ter, between whose eye-brows she bad made a spot with soot, which I learned was because being unweaned it must certainly die. During the night my little charge called oo its mother without intermission, yet the father slept as soundly until morning as if nothing had happened. Ail who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me great hopes ; she could swallow easily and was even strong enougli to turn or sit upright without assistance, and in the forenoon slept very soundly. At noon the Sister of the deceased, Ootooguak, with her husband and son, came to visit me, $be had first gone to (he Fury and was laugh- ing on deck, and at her own request was taken belovr, not caring to hurry herself to come to the bouse of mourning. Even when she came to tlie Heda, she was in high spirits, laughing and capering on deck as if nothing had happened^ but on being shewn to my cabin, where Shega having heard of her arrival was sitting crying in readiness, she began wi«h her niece to howl most wofuUy. I however put a stop to this ceremony, for such it certainly was, under the plea of its disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of smoking walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of Takkeelikkeeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply ; the others ate, chatted, and laughed, as if nothing but eat- ing was worth thinking of. Dinner being over, I received thanks for burying the woman in such a way that neither wolves, dogs, nor foxes could dig her up and eat her, for aU were full ojf tlie story of twcimooseuk, and even begged t lu parry's SRCOTfU VOVAOB 'I im\ tome of our offioen to g^ to Igloolik and ihoot the oflbndlof doge. A young woman named Ablik, liiter to Ooyarra, was induoed after much entreaty and a very large present of beads, to offer her breast to the siok child, but tlie poor little creature pushed it angrily away. Another woman was asked to do the same, but although her child was half weaned she iatly refused. The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and Sbega being now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the evening the child took meat and jelly and sat up to help itself, but it soon after resumed its melancholy cry for Its mother. At night my perty had retired to sleep, yet 1 heard loud sighing oocaMOially, and on lifting the curtain I saw Tokkeelikkeeta stKndfng and looking mournfully at his ohild. I endeavoured to compose him and he promised to go to bed, but hearing him sighing in a few minutes, I went and found the poor infant was dead, and that its fa- ther had been some time aware of it. He now told me it had seen its mother the last time it called on her, and that she had bed v'led it to Khil-la, (Heaven) on which it in- stantly died. He said it was " good" that the child was gone, that no children out-lived their mothers, and that the black spot which Shega had frequently renewed was quite sufficient to ensure the death of the infant. fii'( From the morning of the S4th till midnight on the 26tb, the mercury in the barometer was never below S0.32 inches, and at noon on the latter day had reached 30.52 inches, which was the highest they had observed it in the course of this voyage. This unusual indication of the barometer was followed by hard gales on the 37th and 38th, first from the S. W. and afterwards from the N. W., the mercury fal- ling from 30.51 inches at eight P. M. on the 36th, to 30.35 about five A. M. on the 27th, or about 0.36 of an inch in nine hours, before the breeze came on. At midnight on tbeI7th it reached 20.30, and on the following night 39.05 Q 2 116 parry's sbcond voyage which was its minimum indication during the gale. These high winds were accompanied by a rise in the thermometer Yery unusual at this season of the year, the temperature continuing above zero for seteral hours, and very near this point of the scale for the whole two days. i. ?^»^.Ht»l,ji^ ,«.- . The mean temperature of January proved indeed as re- markable for being a high one, as that of the preceding month had been in a contrary way, being only 17*^.07, or more than ten degrees warmer than December. The first fortnight in February bid fair to present a shnilar anomaly ; the mild weather now experienced giving great hopes of a winter rather favourable than otherwise, notwithatahding the severity with whichit had setin. ^f,0¥sj»mi.s»^ ,, ,, '■ About this time they were much shocked to hear, by an ar- rival from the distant huts, of the death of a young man named Noogloo, the flower of the whole tribe. His com- plaint, so far as they could learn, had been of some continu- ance ; and Toolemak, a native who considered him as his adopted son, had been out to visit him two or three times, and was much afflicted by his loss. There was something peculiarly shucking in the havoc which death appeared now to be making among the younger and more vigorous indi- viduals of this tribe. On passing some of the huts of the Esquimaux, Captain Parry entered the one belonging to the parents of Kaga, the widow of the Esquimaux so much esteemed by the English. They were apparently in a most wretched state, with scarcely any clothes, and Kaga lay moaning, covered with some dirty skins. On enquiring how she was, she said she was not ill, but wretched, some of the natives having robbed her of almost every thing she had, and which it was understood was too commonly the practice towards the wi- dow on the death of the husband. All the presents which had been made to her and her husband from the ships were gone, there appeared nothing to eat, and the snow melting, there was a continual drip. TO THE NORTH POLE. 117 Captain Lyon having been made acquainted with the si- tuation of Kaga, sent to fetch her and lodged her in his ca- bin, and every endeavour vtaa used for her recovery. Per- ceiving the wretched state in which widows are left, it sug« gested itself to him to endeavour to promoter a matrimomal union betw6en K^ja and Tbkkeelikkeeta ; the latter how- ever appeared so greatly to lament the loss of hi«i late wife tint no such intimation could be made uoto him j and fur* tber experience shewed Kaga to be void of those feeUaga which could induce a disposition to render her any service* In the mean time the place for the reception of the sick, into which the Esquimaux also were admitted, began so to swarm with lice as to render it necessary that the sick be- longing to the ships companies should be removed, or the Es- quimaux no longer admitted into it . Captain Parry therefore resolved to build a place expressly for the reception of the Esquimaux. Having suggested this to the officers, ar- rangements were made without delay to erect a separate dwelling for the natives, and an house was quickly erected for their accommodation. Mr. Edv^ards and Mr. Skeoch arranged every thing necessary to be attended to in the ma* nagement of this infirmary, and Mr. Hooper provided a stock of sea-horse meat for their support. It appeared by a girdle worn by the mother of the young man Toolooak, that they] killed a great number of deer. This girdle was adorned with twenty-nine ears of that ani- mal, all which had been killed by him in the course of last summer. .ir^^i ■, ^s Although these people had not been discovered in many acts of thieving, yet it occasionally occurred, and it was manifest that their desire of possesing many of the articles which the ships* stores presented to their view, oftentimcg became irresistible. An old woman whom they had known at Winter Island, having been suspected by Mr. Skeoch of etealing a silver thimble out of his cabin, a few days previ- ous, now brought the thimble back, telling him that finding it '■"yfc-i iiirlu mt i . ' '« MeutJB»J ''»««w ^^^•WfSflSS^W*!'^" *' ! 118 parry's ibcond voyage w. it 11/ •4 'ill tK too small for her finger, she had honestly brought it bacit and requested some present in return. Party feeling and petty animosities appeared to influence the Esquimaux as powerfully as those sensations are mani- fested among Europeans. The different families were as envious and ill disposed towards each other as though they were hostile nations, and envy of each others prosperity was not disguised among them. Mr. Hooper having been to the huts to purchase food for the«ick Esquimaux in the hospital was asked by one> of th patients of whom he had obtained it, and having named the person, the sick man declared he would on that account partake of none of it. No reply was made to this declaration, and after a few days the angry patient r eceived the food offered to him without making fur- ther enquiry. They had among them a number of peculiar customs. A sick person was cautious not to see another sick person unless it were a Kabloona or European. Any vessel or cup, out of which a sick person drank, must be used by no other person, so that in taking care of the sick Esquimaux by the English, each individual had separate utensils. So particular was one of them, that he would not take the water which came from the great boiler, but a lamp was obliged to be kept burning for his use. The powers of prejudice and the force of imagination cannot but be noticed in these cir- cumstances, that a people so filthy in their habits should have such strong objections tomattersof no manner of importance, as to be able to resist the strong and powerful claims of their voracious appetites, which on all other occaiioos appeared to have the supreme ascendancy. Under such repeated calls for the exercise of their humane endeavours to alleviate the sufferings of these people, it may readily be supposed that the medical gentlemen and officers had their time greatly occupied in their attendance on them. Indeed their patient and persevering attention and endea- vours to oUeTiate the sufferings of these people deserves the 1^ -T--TI1I i.i>jrt>«.^.|np,|iBi •immmwia'''^-mfMHH ■MMM«ifl|» TO THE NORTH FOLK. U9 highest commendation. The seemingly want of gratitude and thankfulness, the dirty and filthy state of their persons, added to other circumstances of a repulsive character, re- quired an effort of some force on the part of those attending them, to enable them to persevere until their patients were in a convalescent state. About the middle of February meat began to be very abundant in the village. Several sea-horses were killed, as well as a number of bears. A youth who had acoidently met vrith a severe wound in his leg, and was taken into the hos- pital to be cured, manifested the strength of his appetite by eating four, five, and even six pounds of solid meat as his daily allowance. It may well be supposed that a people taking such quantities of food, however abundantly supplied on some occasions, would be often in a state of want, in a country where their resources were drawn from the sea, or from catching the wild animals which occasionally visited them. By way of proving what quantity of food these people would take, on one occasion a lad was treated with as full a supply as he was disposed to eat during the day, the quan- tity being measured out to him. The following are the par- ticulars. . .>;■ M Sea-horse flesh froxen .... .... . -i> in Ditto boiled ..!;'? Bread and bread-dust ... .... The proportion of liquids was Rich gravy-soup 1^ pint Raw spirits 3 wine glasses Water 17 pints ,; Strong grog .» l tumbler In the secluded situation of the Esquimaux, in a climate where the earth admits of no cultivation, or at least scarcely any, uneducated and without the means of obtaining know- lb». ox. •:.::l.- 4 4 . ■ -..lU i. 4 4 ,-'• '.'it I 12 ' .r.il 10 4 .\A\ • ly-f ,«-4i. „ ISO PABRV'S SBOOND VOYAGB VI /;j, l«dge, all thelMppinesB of these people appears to centre in the indulgence of their gluttonoas appetites ; and to 9uohia degree, that they gratify this disposition although the pros- pect in< future days may be the want of any food whaterer. In the course of the long stay which the ships made among the Esquimaux, some idea was endeavoured to be oon- Teyed to < them of the population, climate, productions, and civil goTemmeot of the nations of Europe and of Great Britain in particular. But it was with great difficulty their minds were brought to conceive the various ranks and sta- tions which different persons filled in civilized society : all importance in; their idea was to be measured by the riches which each possessed. The ships they supposed to be the re^wctive property of Captain Parry and Captain Lyon, and were consequently distinguished by the appellation of Lyon^oomiak and Parry-oomiak. Upon the same principle they supposed the boats to belong to other individuals of the ships ; and were full of astonishment when informed that the ships and boats, and all they contained, belonged to one person, who had also a great number of other oomiaks, both larger and more valuable than these : that it was by his order they now paid this visit to them. > ^t< a > <; ^>c4.>^<] Y^ti One of these Esquimaux, named Ewerat, who possess^ a much superior understanding to most of his countrymen, was shewft a chsrt, and the distance and situation of Great Britain, and many other countries, pointed out to him, as well as the space occupied by his own countrymen. He was soon led to estimate their comparative size and distance, and his astonishment was expressed by an emphatical hei-ya^ which is their word of astonishment and admiration. After having pointed out these circumstances, he and his wife were asked if they would be willing to leave their country and friends and go with the English to their country. To this they most readily assented, and expressed the highest gra- tification at the prospect of seeing those wonderful things and places which had been presented to their attention. _i— - ISSr**^SZS:ii2'- ••»- . .'55»(„ j».«t»-*i*,,..«»«.**r * TO THE NORTH POLE. ;W^* As those who had been sick recovered any measure of health, they maaifested the greatest impatience to be again ranging^ abroad in the open air ; so that by too great ex- ertions they sometimes brought on a relapse, and it was only by agreeing to their wishes under certain conditions and re- strictions, that they were in most instances manageable in these circumstances* -«s.*.'« ... ^^ .■,.tJ'j.u*i; .,>...! ;... ..i * >.. About the middle of March, two families of the Esqui- maux left Igloolik and moved to the southward, where they said the walrusses were more abundant, and before the end of the month many more families took their final de- parture. These removals could not arise from a want of the opportunity of procuring food, but is the consequence of habit and the disposition of all uncivilized people to roam about and change their habitations. ■,; ^, .'>: >;<.'« ' . ... «i:rf The state of the weather was now such that the ships' crews engaged in a variety of games on shore. Cricket, quoits, and other sports occupied some hours every day, and both officers and men found the cheering effacts of being more abroad. On the 21st the wife of another of the Esquimaux died. She had been brought to the hospital a few days preceding in a very weak state, and died without a struggle. As she was on the point of expiring, she took the hand ofMr. Skeoch and pressed it to her lips as expressive of the gratitude she felt for the attention he had paid to her during her sickness. Her husband also manifested much thankfulness for his at- tention to her. A very short time before she died, the husband fetdied two of his sons who were then on board the ships, to see their mother, and on her expiring they all burst out into crying and lamentations for a few minutes and then left the spot apparently as cheerful as «ver. Her husband now dressed her in her clothes, and she was sewed up in a hammock, leaving her face uncovered. On the day lollowing she was buried, the body beiii»- placed on a sledge and drawn by two men to the place of interment. When it P. V. 6. R '\ i I y *'^^l•ili \ W' \ I i 122 parry'is second voyage was put into the grave, BOHie staves urere placed across to prevent any weight resting upon it, and he then threw on large slabs of snuw. Having thus finished his duty, heper- ibitted the English to throw on it a quantity of stones and earth. The difference in the weather between day and night be- gan to evidence itself in a small degree as early as the mid- dle of March, but the return of the light of the sun, andtlie change from almost constant darkness to almost constant day was that which the English beheld as the most cheer- ing circumstance. Only a few weeks after the first requimaux situated at a considerable distance some miles to tlie westward of Tern Island. It consisted of a few huts comprehending about thirty persons. The captain travelled on his sledge, drawn by dogs. These peo- ple had been very successful in catching young walrussei and seals, and two young men among them were in a state of debility which from the inquiries be made Captain Lyun imputed to excessive eating. ; . ^ i Other parties of the Esquimaux were settled in opposite directions. Their huts were built upon the ice near the land and the open water (u give them the opportunity of catch- ing walrusses. In his return on his sledge to the ships, Captain Lyon was obliged to trust himself entirely to the dogs, a heavy snow having fallen, and it drifting with the wind, they were not able to distinguish any objects at a dis- tance. The month of April being the season when the seals ge- nerally produce their young, the natives were continually upon the watch jto kill them. They caught the young ones in abundance, after first killing the mother, by hooking them up with a stafi; They usually produce two young, forming a kind of cavern under the ice. The skins were TO THB NORTH POLB. 12S brought to the ihips for the purpose of barter, auil those of the young seal possessed the feel and texture of raw silk, f On the 15th of this month died Mr. Alexander Elder, Greenland mate of the Hecla, of the dropsy. He had been twice before on the expeditions for the discovery of a North- West passage, and had been promoted to his present situa- tion in consequence of bis faithful ao'l attentive services ou former occasions. His death was much regretted both by officers and seamen. He was buried near the observatory with all proper decorum, and a heap uf stpne^, with a head- stone, was placed over his body. About this time large flocks of ducks visited this island, but the open water where they were to be met with was too far distant to enable the people to shoot any of them. It had long been in the contemplation of Captain Parry what would be the proper mode of proceeding as soon as the weather should liberate the ships from their winter sta- tion. The stores on board the two ships he considered as inadequate to the support of the crews, were they to remain another winter frozen up in this northern climate, and the effort for further discovery would probably be ineffectual ex- cepting the attempt was persevered in so far as to render such circumstances more than probable. He therefore con- sidered that it would be practicable for only one ship to make the attempt, and that the Fury should take as much provisions and stores as might be necessary out of the Hecla and Captain Lyon should return with her to England. By this means also he would have the opportunity of stating to the Lords of the Admiralty all their past efforts, and thereby they might make any alterations in their purpose of sending the vessel which was to meet them pa Beerings Straits. On all these matters he consulted with Captain Lyon, who coincided in opinion with him. , .. Having thus determined. Captain Parry made known his intentions to the ships companies after divine service on the 9Dth of April ; and at the same time an invitation was R 2 ''\ I m^ 1U I rf:i' 134 imruy's skconi) voyage I I ! I given tothcseainenofUieHeclatoenteronbourdUie Fury, as lie intended toincreatse tlie number of men on board his ship beyond the" complement originally appointed. A removal of provisions and stores also immediately commenced, and an exchange was also made with thellecla of the more service- able anchors, boats and cables. In about a fortnight the removal of stores to the Hecla was completed, by means of the Esquimaux dogs, who performed the whole service of the removal,noneofthe crew being called on to convey the stores from one ship to the other, and it excited the astonishment of the ships companies to observe with what ease and expe- dition the dogs performed this service. Some idea may be formed of the value of the services of these animals when it is stated, that nine of them drew a body of store* weighing sixteen hundred and eleven pounds from the Hecla to the Fury, being a distance of nearly half a mile, in about nine minutes. In this manner the dogs laboured for about eight hours each day until (he removal was completed. By the end of April the thawing of the snow of which the Esquimaux huts were composed, rendered the abodes of these people the most uncomfortable that can be conceived, the floor being constantly wet. They were necessitated also to place skins over the openings which the melting of the snow occasioned in their roofs. Several of the families also no\y began to remove ; some to another part of the is- land and others to some small island at a distance. The ship's now began to enjoy the comfort of opening the hatches every day to admit the fresh air, a luxury they had not en- joyed for the last six months. ' '• •• ii.^ - - The rapidity of the change of the temperature of the at- inosphere could not but be noticed by every individual, and the earth exhibited also the most evident tokens of the rapid approach of the summer. Instead of one unvaried white appearance, there were to he seen large dark patches of land, with multitudes of caterpillars. To expedite the thawing of th« ice round the ships and ■' '"•'',{ TO TlIK NORTH POLK. 135 to opon a passage tu the sea, the sledges drawn by the dugs were employed to carry sand fron< the shore. A distance of great part of a naile was thus coveren a.idof the widtli of more than twenty feet, that by this means the ice might be more quickly dissoWed. At this period Captain Lyon went out on a shooting excursion to a point of land called Arlagnuk, accompanied by some of the Esquimaux. He met with considerable sue* cess, killing a great number of king-ducks, wHch the na- tives collected in their canoes. Finding their success so great, shooting parties were established in the neighbourhood accompanied by the small boats from the ships, as they found the Esquimaux were in the practice of keeping back many of the birds which were shot on these occasions. la a few days this party brought to the ships a supply of one hundred and twenty ducks as well as other game, and the "whole was dispersed among the ships companies. Captain Lyon at this time undertook a journey to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a view to obtain information respecting those parts which the ships had been prevented from approaching in consequence of the closeness of the ice. It was intended by this means to form a judgment as to the future movements of the Fury* Two persons were to accompany Captain Lyon and provisions fur a month were tu be conveyed on a sledge. On the 7th of May the captain quitted the ships, accompanied by Captaiu Parry, who proposed travelling to a place named Quilliam Creek, where they landed the next day. Here they pitched their tents, and fixed their abode for the remainder of the day, some of the party being affected by snow blindness, and others by an inflammation of the face occasioned by the heat of the sun. On the 9th Captain Lyon went forw rd on his journey, and Captain Parry having been informed by one of the Es- quimaux that if they proceeded to the head of this Creek and broke through the ice, which was about fi . e feet thick, they 120 i'ARRY'S 9ICUND VUYAQB I might catch abandanue of Caluion, proceeded to make the attempt. AUer several hours labour they obtained an opening to Hhe water, which instantly rose to nearly the surface of the ice ; und the lines were thrown into the place, in full expectation of mr.ch success, but after several hours unsuccessful waiting, no appearance of success presenting itself, they set olF on their return to the ships. lu their journe«r tiio party became so blinded by the snow, that it was with d ifficulty they could direct the sledge. On the 13th they reached Arlagnuk, where they found the shooting par- ties with a large supply of ducks. Towards the end of this month they were visited by a few Esquimaux whom they had never before seen. From them they learnt that they had seen several Kabloona (Europeans) ships employed in killing whales ; and from the description of (he route it was supposed they oaiue from some part of the western coast of Baffin's Bay. They stated that two ships like the Fury had been driven on shore by the ice, and the people escaped in their boats, a fact which has since been confirmed by the oceount of the Dexterity of Leith and the Aurora of Hull having been wrecked in the month of August 1821, about the latitude of 73 degrees. It cannot but be remarked that the Esquimaux nation appear widely dispersed and no doubt are sometimes carried out to aea by the breaking off of the field ice, which may account in some raensure for this circumstance. The following is a fact of Tery recent date. !ij:i-'i:j.i4 f wi-. .(«».'»••** ii? '..■^fiAun,, vnf*' Account of the remarkable preservation of two Esquimaux belonging to the Christian Congregation at Hopedale, one of the settlements of the Moravians on the liobrador coast, who were carried out to sea on a field of ice, and for nine days driven about at the mercy of the waves. Peter, Titus, and Conrad, three Esquimaux, went to an isLind in the open sea called Kikkertarsook, their usual spring place for catching seals. While oo a large field of ice watching for their prey, and drawing near the edge, TO THE NORTH POLB. ir they found cracks in the ice in several places. Suddenly the part on which they stood was dislodi^ed by the wind and broke away from the land. Conrad turned his sledge into a kind of raft by tying skins and seals bladders to it, and contrived to paddle to the firm ice, using a seal jarelin as a rudder. It was agreed that ho should procure a kayak or boat and come to their assistance ; to procure which he hastened with all possible speed, but when he retnnietl to thespotasouth-west wind had carried them so far into the open sea that they could hardly be discerned, and to follow them was impossible. Conrad now proceeded to the families of the two unfor- tunate men to make known unto them the afflicting circum- stance, and the distress which it gave them may perhaps be better imagined than described, when to their inexpressible joy and satisfaction, on the ninth day after they had been driven out, they arrived in a a sledge. The account they gave was, tliat the size and strength of the field of ice was such as to aflford them the means of building a snow-house upon it, about six feet in height, in which they took shelter during the night and when it rained. They ha. :u iu: ■>. " Heavy snow and calm weather obliged us to tent on the hill, which, on clearing away the snow for a sleeping place, we found to be covered with shingle limestone on a bed of yellow marl. Thermometer, at ten in the evening, 20°. Heavy snow all night ; and on the 11th it still con- tinued to fall thickly until thirty minutes after three in the afternoon, when clearing a little, I determined on at- tempting to pass through a small opening in the mountains about W.S.W. of us. The snow which had now fallen with but little intermission for two days and nights was so deep, that we proceeded very slowly and with great la- bour, and the mountains were as completely covered as in the middle of winter. After two hours' toil in ascending a steep hill we arrived on what we conceived was good table land, when we suddenly found ourselves on the brink of a precipice, and a chain of mountains extending from north to S.E. On stopping the sledge it sunk so deep in a wreath of snow that all our efibrts to move it were in vain ; the dogs were quite overcome, and we were quite at a stand. We therefore unloaded it and threw away about one hun- dred weight of such things as could be spared, after which about half an hour's labour extricated it. When reloaded it overset mul I was almost tempted to abandon it, for I saw TO THE NORTH POLK. 131 bow impossible it was for even an unloaded man to climb the snow-covered and steep mountains west of us. I how- ever resolved at last on returning to the low land, and by tracking along the foot of the hills, look out for the first opening to the westward. Seven hours* travelling over the plain brought us to the foot of a mountain which I had ob- served to bear about S.E., and here we tented. *' A heavy snow-gale confined us to the tent during the 12th and 13th, andapart of the 14th, a few minutes' sun at noon on the 13th, (the first time we had seen it since leaving Captaiu Parry,) gave me an opportunity of obtaining the meridian altitude, and on the 14th by sights for the chrono- meter, I obtained the longitude. Lat. 69° 15' 6" long, 1° 11'30"W. ofHecla. '' At five in the afternoon on the 14th, we proceeded in a south-easterly direction along the foot of the rocky hills. On the snow which was very soft we saw a bear's track, and on a patch of shingle found several sea. shells. Five hours travelling brought us to the end of the chain of hills, and from this point we saw the ship with a glass about N.E., twenty miles. I bad for some time suspected that we had taken the wrong route, as no Esquimaux could have passed with a sledge over the mountains at whose feet we had been travelling ; I bad however better hopes at this place by seeing the hills become lower and trend to the south-west- ward, which answered in a great measure with the Esqui- maux description of the land they passed over. At the foot of this point lay a narrow lake of about three miles in length, and near it was a small but deep craggy ravine. On the shingle ridges we saw several Esquimaux circles, and a golden plover passed us on the wing. Travelling hence about three miles southerly, we tented on the snow, the wind being at N.W., and the night extremely cold. " The morning of the 15th was thick and cold and the N. W. wind was unabated. Soon after noon we proceeded in a westerly direction but without having a fixed objaet to S 2 3f rmi 1' i ii '■*»— ^ •>«* ,.»»--—-•!---. -i«*«' 1 |M. 133 parry's SttC07«U VOYAGE •■i ii^ guide us. 'In this manner we travelled for two hours, when the weather clearing we saw the hills turning to the south- ward, to which direction we altered our course ; and having gone forward for two hours more, tented on the snow for a short time as two of the dogs were so fatigued as to he scarcely able to walk. In fact, the whole of them were much distressed, for they were not. accustomed to land tra- velling and the depth of the snow always caused the sledge to hang as a dead weight* At nine in tlie evening, having rested, we proceeded and travelled until one in the morning on the 16th, when we tented on some flat rocks on which we procured abundance of water, which luxury we had hitheto enjoyed but sparingly. We here saw some small plants of saxifrage in blossom. *' The morning of the 16th was mild and fim :. i o. .wards noon wind and sleet came strong from the westward : as our snow-shoes required repair and our feet were much blistered, I took advantage of our being on a good dry rock to refresh ourselves and dogs. We saw a fox, two plovers, and several buntings. Deer tracks were numerous and recent, but the howling and fighting of our wild and restless dogs quite drove the animals away from us. " In the evening we advanced and following the direction of the mountains on our right, made a south-easterly course over a large lake of about ten miles in length by one to four in breadth, on the shores of which in some places the ice was pushed up in high transparent hummocks: we saw some wolf tracks, and a few plovers, knots, and sandlings. One deer passed at a distance. At this place there was not an eminence in a direction which was without some piles of stones placed by the Esquimaux hunters- Turning the bills to the S.S.W. we passed ovec low but exceedingly rocky ground, amongst which the snow was continually knee deep, and the poor dogs were so exhausted that we were obliged to stop on a little rock in a lake at the foot of the mountains. The whole day ha been so cloudy and thick TO THR NORTH fOLB. 168 that we had no idea of what kind of country lay beyond us. The «now was literally covered by deer-tracks, and we saw three of these animals but the dogs frightened them from us. ' ' " A fresh easterly wind was blowing on the 17th, which was very cold. In order to obtain a view amongst the mountains, I walked out, accompanied by one of the men, for nine hours, and we got about eight miles south of the tent to the top of the highest place we could find. From hence we saw about fifteen miles over other mountains extending from north to south-east, while on the left the appearance of low land was unaltered. On our return, we killed a doe, of which I gave the better half as a refreshment to the dogs. At half past two in the afternoon on the 18th we started south-east about eight miles over a lake to a low point, at which we were obliged to tent for the night, in consequence of a heavy snow-ntorm whicU prevented our seeing half a mile in any direction. While tenting, a large buck walked slowly past us, and was killed ; of this animal we gave two thirds to the dogs. '* The night was bleak and tempestuous,' and we found on the morning of the lOth that the snow had fallen some inches in depth, and the whole country round us was co- vered. Towards noon it ceased snowing, but the piercing cold gale was unabated and drift flew in clouds. Soon af- ter two in the afternoon we quitted the point for another, which still bore about south-east, at which we arrived, after passing over a very flat plain or lake for about seven miles. The snow was here firmer than we had found it of late, and the mountains formed a bight of about four miles in depth on our right. From this point a distant part of the range bore south, and promised to turn to the westward, as we could see nothing beyond it ; we in consequence pro- ceeded briskly for it, and had travelled six miles or half way, when we saw it take a sweep to very distant hills, flouth-eait. All my hopes of making westing now ceased. i\ 134 PARRY S 8BC0ND VOYAGB and I was aware that nothing could be done in this direc- tion, which certainly was not the route crossed by the na- tives in their passage to tiie Western Sea. I therefore struck from off the plain to the foot of the high land about three miles on uur right, where we tented, and I deter- mined on waiting till the gale should moderate, when I could retrace my steps to Quilliam Creek, and from thence proceed, if the season would permit, in some other di- rection. " The north-east gale continued during the fore part of the day, yet I should have set out had it not been the severe pain it caused our faces, and its influence on our snow-shoes, which it sometimes turned quite aside and almost tripped us up. Four large white birds, with black-tipped wings, passed at some distance. In the afternoon we started, and travelling eight hours over the snow, which was somewhat hardened by the gale, reached the little rocky isle on which we had passed the 17th. ■ ^^' !) / ; ' ' < V > .i— " The wind was unabated on the 21st, at three in the af- ternoon we started, but were soon detained by one of the dogs slipping his harness and giving chase to a couple of deer, which he pursued with great spirit to the hills, where he soon disappeared, regardless of all our cries to stop him. At the expiration of a couple of hours, and when we had ad- vanced two or three miles, giving him up for lost, we saw him tracking our footsteps, and he soon came up much fa- tigued. We travelled nine hours 6n this day, yet very slowly, for I had sprained my foot ariongst the rocks some days be- fore and it had now become very troublesome. Soon after midnight we arrived and tented at the place where we slept on the 16th ; deer were abundant, and a buck was shot near the tent We this day saw four brent-geese and several flocks of ducks. * r . " As my leg was swoln and painful, I determined on rest- ing for the day, which was warm but gloomy, the thaw pro- ceeding very rapidly. With the exception of saxifrage, I \^ TO THB NORTH POLE. 135 observed no plant in bloona, but the grasses and mosses were luxuriant, and promised abundant provision to the vast quantities of deer which we continually saw. In fact, such was their number, that had we been enployed as a shooting, instead of a travelling party, we might have procured enough to supply both ships constantly, were they not too distant for the conveyance of the venison. ri, V,t .,\a " The 23rd was fine and very warm, which softened the snow so much that the snow-shoes sunk several inches at every step. Starting at five in the evening, we travelled for nine hours over a still deeply- covered plain, in order to reach the point whence we had seen the ships ; we here found the valley quite flooded, and the ravine beginning to run. While we were tenting, we saw a fox prowling on a hill-side, and heard him for some hours after, in different places, imi- tating the cry of a brent-goose. The night was cold, and we felt it very sensibly after the most sultry day I ever re- member to have seen in this country ; our faces and bands smarted most severely and were much swollen by the scorch- ing of the sun. The 24th was also a very hot day, and I found the country so universally flooded that I gave up all idea of proceeding for Quilliam Creek, and determined during the night to make for the ships. When the evening cooled we proceeded over the plain, and wading, rather than walking, through deep snow and water for eight hours, ar- rived at four in the morning o-n the 25th at the sea-side, about eight miles to the south-west of the ships. Here we gladly tented and rested ; Dunn killed a brown and ash-co- loured crane who pitched near us. " Starting at four in the morning, on the 26tb, we waded for eight hours to the ships, and when amongst the hummocks, about a mile from the Hecla, were so com- pletely buried in the wet snow, that we were obliged to make a signal for assistance, as we were too much fatigued to clear the sledge. A party was sent, and with their help we arrived on board at noon. a I ^ M 198 PARAY'S SBCOND yOYAQB ft! H m " We had now obtained sufficient proof ttiat no passage was practicable in a southerly direction to the sea, and had also learned by experience the extreme difficulty of carrying a sledge over land, even to so fine a team of dogs as mine. That some other way might be found to obtain a view of the Western Sea, 1 was yet in hopes ; but it was not possi- ble to pass over land at this time, from the state in which the tliawing had left the snow. A more advanced period of the season might perhaps be more favourable ; but even a walking party, laden with tent and provisions, would make but little progress over the mountains/' In the beginning of July the ice appeared to be rapidly^ dissolving. The space which had been covered with sand, and which had obtained from the crew the name of the canalf was covered with water to the depth of eighteen inches, and there was every reason to expect a speedy breaking up of the ice in that direction, and a liberation of the ships. There was however a distance of several miles beyond this canal which was still entirely frozen, but which it was hoped and expected would be so dispersed by the end of the month as to afibrd a passage for the ships into the open water. The success of the shooting parties at this time was very considerable, upwards of two hundred ducks having beeu killed in the course of one week. A considerable party of Esquimaux, whom they had never before seen, paid tlie ships a visit at this time. They came from Cockburn Island and from places to the west- ward of Igloolik. The distance they stated to be from six to eight days journey. These people confirmed the state- ment of former Esquimaux as to the two ships which had been wrecked, and one man was aft^wards met with who had some of the boards belonging to the wrecked vessels. As this circumstance excited a strong feeling among the ships crews, Lieutenant Hoppner offered to accompany a party of the natives who were about taking a journey north- ward, with a view to obtain more satisfactory information TO Tilfi NORTH PQLB. i 187 as to the wrecked sbips, and also to obtain a icore correct kiiowledge of the shores of Cockburn Island. As the at- tempt was likely to produce some interesting information^ Captain Parry acceded to his offer, and appointed three of i' ps crew to accouipan; '"" ;.nd four of the best doge wer<. convey the baggage. - On the fourth of July Lieutenant Hoppner, having beard that a party of the Esquimaux, intended to set out on the following morning, went with his people who were appointed to accompany him, to their village, that they might be in rea- diness to go with them ; and accordingly the next day he proceeded in company with almost the whole of the natives, as not more than two or three visited the ships after this tioae. The following is his narrative of the journey. ^. ^i,^ *' We left the ship at fifteen minutes past eleven in the even- ing on the 4th, and arrived at the Esquimaux tents about five in the morning. The Esquimaux were all asleep, but being disturbed by the noise of our arrival, they flocked round us to know the cause of so early a visit. Our inten> tion of accompanying them seemed to afibrd great amuse- ment, and many jokes were passed apparently at our expense. Having rested about two hours, we were disturbed by the whispers and stifled laugh of the women and children ; and on going out found the tents all struck, the men already gone, and every appearance of the party, with whom we in- tended to travel, having fairly given us the slip. This unex- pected departure somewhat embarraMed us ; but we imme- diately prepared to follow them, and were relieved from our anxiety by finding they were still at the edge of the ice. P^.- ceiving we were really in earnest, and that our dogs, of which they had only a few wretched animals, were likely to be of use to them, Erichiuk luffered us to place the loads upon his sledge. We left Keiyuk-tarruke at thirty minutes ^ait nine, in company with four other sledges ; and after clear- ing the grounded hummocks, travelled at a good pace in a north-easterly direction. When we got about fiv^ miles P. V. e. T i ' ) If i| i 1» PARE'V't SBC0M1I VOVAOI I ! ■ ■ r ■lil'li I'll >i\ S I't n fhNB IglooBk, the water became k^ce deep on the ice, which rendlered walking extremely fatiguing. The nkenand geveral of the women dispersed themxelyes inall directiona in puriait; of seals { whilst the sledges' were left entirely to the mumgement of the femalas who remainded by them. Our assistance soon became necessary, and before the end ef the day we quite gained tUeir favour. It was at first the inten- ^on of the men to go to Tern Island toooUeoteggs, but ^ttt seven in the eveningthe weather assuming a threatening appearance, they determined to encamp on the ice. The number bfstbppages^ aind the winding course which we made to pick Up' the seals left by thehuntets, rendered the day's joiirn^y extremely fatiguing and unpleasant, partioulArly as we sufferled' i^ good deal' from cold. After travelling abe«t twenty ifaile», we at length halted at thirty minutes past ittvett in the evenmg. As we had nothing but our blanket- bags tb place between us and the ice, Erichiuk kindly fur- nished ui with states procured from the ships, Ivith which W6 floored the tent, and passed the night much more com- fortably 'than we had anticipated. The encampment Was formed 6n a small dry ridge of ice, almost the only spot free from Water that we had seen during the afternoon. In con- sequence of their success, the Esquimaux passed the evening feasting on raw flesh ; only^one or two taking the trouble to light theii^lbinps. - •* Thte ^feather being fine on the 6th, we broke up the enicafflpmient at thirty minutes past seven in the morning, and travelled about fifteen miles in a N.N.E. direction. The hnnters of both sexes again dispersed themselves, many seals were killed merely for their skins, and the carcases left on ike ice, after t)eing deprived of |he entrails, of which the Esquimaux seemed particularly fond. At seven in the afternoon we landed on the north shore, and pitched our tent on a rocky point in the midst of the Esquimaux en- campment. The women brought us some roots of the po- ientUla pukhetta, which they had pulled whilst collecting -{.') TO THB NORTH POLB. W^^r dwarf, nait uTcr the joint.' In the ewonUig we war* dLvartad by Kooeetaeaarioo, who went through th« whole oaremony oC raiaingTornga. My menputapaaoraen* behind whiohUawanli after aome persuasion, and pe*rormed tba wb«:U of hia pajrt with great skill, partiaularly the dlting aoaua, "tyhera b« ma- naged his Toioe 80 well that i'» naally appeared to come aomai diataooe from under gcound. 1 1 would teem from i\\\a, thai the art is nut difliouit, oud that, frmn the ridioule with wHicl| they seemed to tneai it, they weve oov imposei un. 1 he old people alone atiemed to. puy reapect to th^ . \..geikoki|» while the young ones invariably treated their niyateriea M-'-'ik conteiaptt i u-»i <3tbj ve quitted this station, wUioli by the mean of (iv<«. meridian altitudes in in lut. MPAi'2Ql'>t and by tiie mean of seven seta of ubaervat tions fac th« obronoasetar, in long. 00" 40' 23" £. of the shipa'. winter statinn. The ice waaaofnUof raoka and holes that it was with diflioulty tii« sledge could proceed, and it wa4 only Mubled to aland the heavy ahocka it received by tho looseness of its construction. Two large seals being seen on the ice, tho sledges stopped while two of the Esquiinauf went in pursuit of tbera. It was full two bour9 before they got close to one ofther:. ^' ' ich they effected by crawling feet furem^osi towards the animal ; l^ne mao lying concealed behind tlie other who, by scraping on the ice with his spe(\r, and moving his feet in imitation of a sears-flipper, deceived the nninml uut'l i'iiey got within six or seven yards of it. Tb^y then remained statiunaty sQise timq as if to accustom the seal t«s them ; when at length the nearet^t man, springing on his feet, darted his spear, whicli liowever striking a bnnc did not take effeot. Notwithstanding the quickness of the movement, tha animal waa half down the hole before the ap^r " t I -lil d if ■t.•=.^ tu PARttVs sgc6n6 voyaob quitted the man's htnd. At four o'clock, bating^ advanced about fourteen miles along shore to the westward, the party stopped at a rooky point, where they signified their inten* tion of remaining some days. A few miles to the westward a low point ran out with several small isldmds oJBTit. Beyond this point was an extensive opening, which the Esquimaux represented to be a bay which they go up on their route to Toonoonee-rouchiuk. Dunn joined us about an hour after our arrival, |vith the intelligence of having killed a deer five or six miles to the westward. By promising the Ne- rooka a part of the deer before mentioned by Captain Lyon, as considered a great delicacy i>y these people, a sledge was easily procured, upon which my two men went, accompanied by one of the Esquimaux, to bring it in. Our provision being nearly expended, I desired the men to endeavour to bargain with their companion for his sledge to carry us to Neerlonakto ; whilst I also endeavoured to hire one in the event of their failure. In the wening Erichiuk and some others had k long conversation about the ships going to Toonoonee roochiuk, an event they seemed very anxious to brin|^about. He persisted in say> ing it was practicable for them to go by a western route ; and as he still continued positive after 1 had explained to him that we found the Strait blocked up by ice last summer, I concluded that he alluded to some other opening which the formation of the land precluded us from seeing at pre- sent. 'H-M-i'^^'i^'i ,Mh'^:i''l^* M^ilM Aftft. .'.«;■ Js'l^S ** The man who had promisediis his sledge the preceding evening, now refused it, because we did not immediately comply with his demands for the deer's sinews. In conse- quence of this I determined, if he persisted in his refusal next morning, to construct a light sledge with our boarding- pikes to carry our baggage, whichby this time was become tolerably light. ?i -'^ " On the receipt of the sinews and home of the flesh how- ever, he was again willing to lend his sledge the following TO THB NORTH POfcB. Hi (lay ; we therefore prepared to luovti immediately after breakfatit. The latitude of this station by oue meridian altitude was 60" A& 12" N., the longitude, by means of two sets of sights for the chronometer, was 00° 34' 42" east of the ships. The Jgkquimaux seemed sorry to depart from us, a feeling rendered reciprocal by the kindness which they bad uniformly shewn us. It is but justice to say that I never experienced more attention in my life , and that their whole conduct towards us seemed expressive of a grateful feeling for the advantages which they had derived from their intercourse with the ships. Our party .was in- creased to six by two of the natives joining us just as we were starting. ^The ice was tolerably smooth and had but lit- tle water on it, so that my men, who walked more than two- thirds of the way, did it without fatigue, and at half an hour past six in the evening we landed on Neerlonaktoo. Our companions, who had volunteered to carry us to the ships, were anxious to proceed, but compassion for our poor dogs would not suffer me to hear of it. Although tiiese people were kind and attentive to us, they did not tlilnk it necessary to extend thi|||eeling to our dogs, wliich : were become very lame, uor would they even supply us with a piece of skin 4o make boots for them, without demanding an exorbitant price. Whilst on Neerlonaktoo we saw three deer and great numbers of geese and other water fowl, but they were so shy that all our attempts to get near them were ineffectual. ^ *< Leaving the island at forty-live minutes past eleven) on the 16th, we arrived on Igloolik at twenty minutes past one. Having loaded our own dogs, le Esquimaux left theirs moored to a stone, where they were to remain with- out food until their return ; andi» >}ralking across the island we reached the ships at four ip the afternoon." The ice continued daily, though slowly, to dissolve, and there still was a distance of nearly five miles from the ships to the open sea. The hope of extriuating the ships there- P. V. 7. U I m ^dK ,'.■■>«• 146 parry's second voyage fore depended on the probability of some of tbose cracks taking place, which they had often witnessed, and which made an immediate clearance of tlie ice. While waiting in this expectation, on the Slst of July Captain Parry dis- patched Lieutenant Hoppner once moie to examine a bay or river of Cockburn Island, which had not been explored. He was accompanied by two of the crew, and provided with a sledge and dogs. On his return he made the following report of h:s journey. '* At a quarter past fonr we left the Hecla, and having reached the head of the bay at half-past six, the party who were there in readiness carried the ^dge across the isth- mus ; after which they returned to the ship. The fog was now so thick that it was impossible to proceed towards Neer- lonakto, we therefore kept along the land-ice of Igloolik, when supposing ourselves nearly abreast of the former is- land, we went on shore to wait for better weather. " Thick foggy weatlier continued until four in the afternoon on the 22nd, when, it becoming clearer, we recommenced our journey, passing between Neerlonaktoo and three small whitish islands off its so«(h-west end, which at a distance are easily mistaken for hummocks of dirty ice. The ice afterwards began to improve ; but we were obliged by se- veral wide cracks extending from Neerlonaktoo to the west land and the islands in Riobards's Bay, to go some distance round to find parts sufficiently narrow to cross. At eleven in the evening we pitched our tent on the north* east island in Richards's Bay j the ice was so much broken up all round it that it was with difficulty we landed. " On the 23rd it rained hard all night, with thick hazy wea- ther, which did not clear away until noon the following day. We immediately prepared tu move ; but it was twenty -five minutes past one in the afternoon before we got away, owing to the time taken up in shoeing the dogs, which for two peo- ple was a tedious operation. We stood directly over towards the north land, finding the ice so bad for the first six or se< TO THE NORTH POLE. 147 vea mile* as to make it reasonable to expect that a very few days would render it impaBsable. Towards the centre of the strait it beoame very good, and continued so until we got near the north shore, where we found it in much the same state as on the opposite side. Several of the cracks ex- tended from land to land, and were so wide as to cause us much perplexity in crossing them. At a quarter past nine we landed on a low sandy beaob* which forms the sout.. -east point of the opening we saw to the north-west, when on our former journey with the Esquimaux. " On the 24th the weather during the early part of the day was tolerably fine, bat in the afternoon became foggy, with heavy showers of rain. The dogs being a good deal fagged, I determined to give them a day's rest, expecting we should be able to ascertain the extent of the inlet on foot. Having waited without success to get the meridian altitude, I walked up the inlet, and crossing the two first points of land, picked up a piece of fresh skin, which convinced ne that our friends the Esquim''.ux had not much the start of us. A high s*ount on the St>uth side, about twelve or fourteen^ miles distant, becoming a very prominent object, I made towards it, hoping from thence t« see the termination of the inlet, which here varied from one to three miles in breadUi. At five in the afternoon, finding the hill above-mentioned still too distant for me to reach on foot, I landed on the right-hand shore, from whence the opening appeared to ex- tend at least a day's journey for the sledge, continuing about the same breadth and not appearing to terminate even at the furthest point seen. After resting a short time, I returned towards the tent, determining, if our people had killed any thing which would furnish a supply of food for the dogs, to run up with the sledge next day, and if possible reach its termination. Having walked about five miles back, 1 discovered an Esquimaux tent on the north side, which being pitched behind a point had escaped my notice on pass* ing up, and which proved to belong to some of our old U 2 -■*^. •'■ *>>,>» 1 >P w. -»n '*••»■ •■t5f*,-tMw"^" rf^'*-- - -^sk: . 148 PAimv'ir SBCOIf D VOYAGB E*:& 4v ( ''f- ill I \ friendi. Ai the want of food for the dogi h»d made m« fearful we should be obliged to abandon oar object before its accomplishment, I immediately bargained with them for a supply, promising to visit them the next day. They had a few pieces of very fine looliing fish drying on the rooks. After stopping with them about ten minutes 1 took my leave, and, on reaching the point next above our tent, found that the rest of tlie Esquimaux had arrived during my absence. '* At twenty minutes past twelve on tlie 33lh we struck our tent and proceeded up the inlet, stopping! few^minutes at tlie first point, where we purchased some meat for the dogs, and got the promise of a seal on our return. At three in the afternoon we arrived at the tent of Erichiuk, from whom we purchased some more meat and a very fine sal- mon. The Esquimaux told us we might reach the head of the inlet to-day ; we therefore left one of our dogs vihicii was lame in Erichiuk's charge, and resumed our journey, with the intention of lightening the sledge at the first con- venient place. At four in the afternoon, having reached two small islets situated nearly in mid-channel, we buried whatever we could spare, to ensure the accomplishment ut' our object; and having stopped half an hour to refresh our- selves, we set ofl^ at a quick pace. The weather was su thick that it was but very rarely we got a glimpse of the shores on each side of us ; when we did, they seemed ^rocky and steep ; but a short distance from the beach the land ap- peared well clothed with vegetation. As weadvanced the ice became very thin and rotten, and gave indications of our approach to its termination : at length, about half past nine, we found ourselves within fifty yards of the water, and were obliged to pick our way to the shore over a very rotten sur- face. On landing we were gratified by the sight ofa noble sheet of water, a mile and a half in breadth and perfectly A-esh. The tide was out, but there was no current percepti- ble in the middle, nor did we notice any during the whole time of our stay. The Esquimaux had informed us of *^ -.-aoyr^. TO TMft NORTH POLB. M9 hrge fall, but as wo neither saw nor heard any thing of it, it must be a good way higher up, our point of view extend- ing full fifteen miles, when it terminated in two bluff points, between which the stream seemed to wind. To these points* to all appearance, it continued about the same breadth, and from the colour of the water it must be deep enougli for ships of large burden. The land on each side was high, and where we stood was more closely covered with vegeta- tion than any spot I had ever seen in these regions. The dwarf willow grew to a height and size almost entitling it to be called a shrub, and Andromeda tetragona was in the greatest abundance. ** On the 26th I sent one of my men to the top of a high hill behind our tent, but his view from thence was not more extensive than what we had already procured. After stop- ping to get the meridional altitude, which gave the lat. 70° 06' 43" N., the longitude, by chronometer, being 0° 30' 48' W. of the ships, we set out on our return. As the ice was broken up for two miles below us, we endeavoured to get on the solid floe by a narrow neck about one hundred yards broad ; but having got half way, it proved so thin and rot- ten that I considered it better to return, than to run the risk of crossing it. The dogs dragged the sledge along shore until we came to the firm ice, performing their task much better than we expected. We now returned down the river, and, having picked up the things left on the is- land, arrived at the Esquimaux tents at half-past eight. They received us very kiudly, assisting to unload the sledge and carry the things to the top of the hill. We purchased of them some very fine salmon, which they caught in a small rivulet emptying itself into a bay about a quarter of a mile from the tents. " The 27th proving a fine day, the men all went out with their fishing-spears at high-water, but returned in a short time, saying there were no fish, from which it is pro- bable that they only come here occasionally, resorting at mI' Wm^^' jffl ■ I J' til ^ ■*'-«t. .,.: '^^liT,' '^^j^^tm^ '' ■I i : V- IflO parry's srcomo voyaqb other times to other pUces of the same description, ^ith which the river abounds. The latitude oi this station is 70^ 0' 13" N.; loiigitude,iiby chronometer, 0° 6' 40" W. of the ships. We left our friends about one in the afternoon ; they continued citil to the last, although the temptation to rob us was too great to resist. Thi8> however, they did in a sly sort of way, removing things from where we had placed them with the ides, perhaps, that we should not miss them until we had taken our departure. On tasting the water at this station, which is not more than seven or eight miles from the mouth of thskopeniog, it proved nearly fresh. We kept close along the north shore, passing over Tory bad ice, with cracks extending across to the eastern part of the strait. It appeared only to want a strong breeece from the westward to drive it out, as it was quite detached from the land. At nine in the evening we landed on a small rocky island, the easternmost of a group about fifteen miles from the spot where we left the Esquimaux on our former journey. From this point I could see that the land was connected ; as the only part which had been doubtful was in a bay formed by the north-eastern point of the river, an4 another about five mUes westward from our present station, where (the lan4 being rather low) there was an appearance of an opening j this day's journey, however^ proved the continuity of the coast. Our time being limited, 1 did sot think it worth while going any farther to the eastward ; but ^s the dogs would require a day's rest previously to carrying us over to Igloolik, I determined to remain here until the 39th for that purpose. " The weather was so thick, that it was not until past ten on the SQth that we left the north land, and at seven arrived on the west end of Neerlonaktoo, where we stopped for the night, our dogs being too much tired to proceed. We found the ice in coming over far better than 1 expected. It was however separated from both lands by wide cracks, and did not average more than two feet in thickness as far hit- i TO THB NORTH POLB. Iftl ttil past t seven stopped rooeed. peoted. cracks, as far M I oould judfpe ; it appeared nearly in the same state as last year at this season. vnit^.m ■*•>»« •«*# r " Leaving Neerlonaktoo at balf^pasi «leven on the 80th, we reached Igloolik at two in the afternoon. The ice be- tween the two islands was almost Impassable for a sledge in some places, but the pools were all froxen over, for the first time, during the last night. We found great difficulty in landing on Igloolik, the ice having broken up into de- tached pieces along its shores. In getting the sledge across from one end to the other, we were frequently near losing it, the dogs having to swim across several of the spaces between the broken pieces of ice. Having crossed the isthmus, we got sight of the ships and arrived on board about four in the afternoon.'* *«^frti>!*^t»>fti/l>i?fr^of-.i>*..!.'»i«''.'»trtv«tW ijfj'Ji , They had now entered upon the month of August, yet the ships were so completely surrounded with ice as to pre- clude all approaches to the open water, excepting that around the ships to a small distance there was an open space of water. Captain Perry therefore resolved, arduous as was the attempt, to endeavour to saw a passage through the ice to the sea, a distance of nearly five miles, and with this view a tent was pitched for the ships' companies to take their meals in. On the tliird of the month, however, the ice opened to within a mile of the ship, so that the sawing might be proceeded on with a greater prospect of suecess, and the following day near four hundred yards of ice were out through. In effecting this the crew endured much fa- tigue, and the ioe often breaking several of the men fell into the water. One rf them very narrowly escaped drown- ing, being at such a distance as that help could not be rea- dily afforded him. The prospect of being liberated from the ice being proba- ble, the parties which had been s^ppointed to fish and obtain provisions were called in. The boats had a narrow escape one day in attacking a herd of walrusses, the ■-u^*«i-.— - -"«-■- I 1 HI '1 'I IM pamiy's SICUNn voyaqb wounded oues attacking tltem with tlieir tu§ka and stuvs one of the boats in several places. The uiroumstance of the season being so far advanced as to afford a very short space for Attempting further discove- ries, induced Captain Parry to reconsider bis purpose of remaining another winter In these climates with the Fury only. The state of health of several of the officers and crew appeared also to have undergone a considerable change ; and the effect of a third winter might be of too serious consequence to admit of his'prooeeding, without first taking the opinion of the medical gentlemen as to its probable effects. Impressed with these sentiments, he ad- dressed a requisition to them desiring their opinion under all the circumstances, and received from Mr. Edwards the following reply, with which in substance that of Mr. Skeoch coincided. " During the last winter and subsequently, the aspect of the people of the Fury in general, together with the increased number and character of their complaints, strongly indicated that the peculiarity of the climate and service was slowly effecting a serious decay of tlieir constitutional powers. The recent appearance also of several cases of incipient scurvy in the most favourable month of the year, and occurring aftr< a more liberal and continued use of fresh animal food than we can calculate upon procuring hereafter, are confirmatory proofs of the progression of the evil, hnk ** With a tolerable prospect of eventual success, other circumstances remaining unchanged, I should yet expect an increase of general debility, with a corresponding degree of sickness, though at the same time confident of our re- sources being equal to obviate serious consequences. Butcon- sidering the matter in the other point of view, namely, asasin- gleship, it assumes a much more important shape. It is not necessary that I should dwell on the altered circumstances in which the crew would then be placed, as they are such as you TO THE NORTH I'OLE. 153 miidt ions^ *go have foreseen and weighed. I ulludc to the increase of labour nnd exposure resulting from the separation of (he vessels, the privation of many salutary occupations, mental and corporeal, attending their union, i-.t'd, I may add, at this late period of the season, (he hopelessness of the success of the ensuing navigation being sucli na to excite feelings sufficiently lively to counteract those depressing causes. It is impossible, in fact, to reflect on the subject and not to apprehend a less favourable result than might be expected under the preceding conditions." On the 8th, the ice moved around the Fury, which mak- ing sail, got into open water. The ice around the Hecia however, though agitated at first, did not move out of tha bay, and the still remained beset. Captain Parry however determined to occupy the time in an examination of the strait which closed their operations the preceding year. On arriving at the place, a most hopeless prospect presented Itself, as the ice was attached to the shores on each side, and from the mast-head they had a distinct and extensive view of one solid piece of ice as far at the eye could see to the westward up the Strait. Being fully satisfied of the impracticability of a passage this way, the Fury returned towards Igloolik to rejoin the Heda, who on the 9th was driven to sea, on the ice break- ing, in the middle of a floe in the most perilous manner. She was thus driven over shoals, in an unmanageable state, but fortunately escaped without any accident. In addition to the report of the medical officers. Captain Parry requested the opinion of Captain Lyon as to the pro- jtriety of pursuing the attempt of further discovery, and received the following reply. *' As I consider the health of your crew as of mo«t im- portance in every point of view, I shall in the first place state that, independently of the weighty opinions of your medical officers, it has fur some time been my opinion that the Fury's passing a third winter in this country would be P. V. 7. X IHD w IIm |i m M B-fiM miii!' ^il'^''" ~ ■'-i/^-.i^M*- ™ jllf'; th J ' t 1 !.. . .,.'1 ('; « i 154 parry's sbcond votagb extremely haiardous* I am induced thus to express myself from the great ohaoge I have observed in the constitution of the officers and men of the Ilech, and by the appearance of some severe cases of scurvy since the summer has com- menced ; I am also aware that the same scorbutic symptoms hi^ve been noticed, and do still exist, in the Fury. " Our lung continuance on one particular diet, almost total deprivation of fresh animal and vegetable food for above two years, and the necessary and close confiaement for several months of each severe winter, are undoubtedly the causes of the general alteration of constitution which has for some time past been so evident. I therefore con< ceive that a continued exposure to the same deprivations and confinements, the solitude of a single ship, awd the monotony of a third winter to men whose health is preca- rious, would in all probability be attended with very serious consequences. *' When at the commencement of the last winter I g&ve it as my opinion, that the service would be benefited by your remaining out in the Fury, as you proposed, and still attempt- ing a further passage to the westward, I did not anticipate so long a confinement in the ice as we have unfortunately experienced, and formed my opinion on the supposition, and in the full expectation that we should be at liberty about the Ist of July of this year, and ibat the general good health which then prevailed would still continue. From our being detained until the present time, however, I am of opinion that the season in which it is possible to navigate has now so far passed, that nothing material can be effected either by one or both ships. We know from the experience of last year, that it la not before the end of August or the beginning of September that the ice breaks up in the Strait of the Fury and Hecia, and that it is not until that period that you will be enabled to reexamine its western entrance. Even when you should have done so, and, as there is every reason to expect, found it still closed, you would have TO THB NORTH POLE. 165 barely suffloient time to return to Igloolik to pass another winter. Again, should the sea prove open to the south- eastward, and should you deem it expedient to attempt, by rounding the very extensive land in that direction, to find some other passage to *he westward, I conceive that the extreme lateness of the season would not admit of your making discoveries of any importance, or at all events of such importance as to warrant your passing a third winter, at the risk of the safety of your oflicers and crew. " Having now stated my reasons for changing my former opinion, I beg to advise that the Fury and Heda return to England together, as soon as such arrangement respecting the removal of stores and provisions as you may judge pro- per to make shall be completed." Considering himself not justifiable after this in continuing longer in these seas, at the risk of the health and lives of those committed to his charge. Captain Parry communica- ted his intentions to the officers and ships companies. Ad< ditions were made to the daily allowance of provisions, and the various antiscorbutics, which had been reserved for a season of more expected emergency, were liberally issued. The provisions and extra stores that had been taken from the Heda, with a view to her return to England alone, wore now replaced, and such other arrangements were made as circumstances seemed to require. On the 11th a flag-staff, fifiy-six feet in height, was erected on the main land, agreeable to the instructions of the Lords of the Admiralty, at the top of which a ball was placed formed of iron hoops and canvass, and a cylinder was buried at the foot of the staff, containing a statement of the ships having been here. Captain Lyon in the mean, time was occupied in bringing off the boats, tents, and other articles left on shore, which from the drifting of the ice he did not accomplish without some difficulty. Ultimately one boat was left, which being very old was not considered material, especially as the wood would be very serviceable X 8 "^TCMntai^ 44^^ -^1 1 ' . i I ' I '■♦- l''"i I" 'I IM VAHRri SBCOHD VOYAOK to their frieiiiU th« Eiquiiimuz. In addittun tu tbiit tliey left their tlodgci and ■ quantity of wood, Mpeanii paddlcH, and otiier artiolea, Htrewed about at considerable diatance, that they might become the property of different individualn. On the 12th of August they took their final leave of Ig- lootik, and the following day made the three islands called Ooglit, being a oonHideruble run in an open sen. Here they Mw a great number of walrusses. On the 14tb several Es- quimaux who had their abode in this neighbourhood paid (hem a visit, among whom tbey noticed several of their old acquaintances. In.-i ni^^l 'hi- t^^ui -x, i^ii." t5i-fc«s.-=I I ,t: it^U\j Tbey continued to drift with the ice rather than to sail for several succeeding days, and on the 81st arrived at their old quarters off* Winter Island. In this period they had moved along the coast to the extent of one hundred and aixty miles, of which they had not sailed fifty, the remainder having been effected by drifting while beset with the ice. As the natives of these inhospitable regions occupy so pro- minent a place in the narrative, it may not be improper to insert an account of the settlement of the Moravians on the Labrador coast. Having established themselves in Green- land, aome vf them were desirous of extending their settle* roent, and accordingly Matthew Staoh, the oldest resident, in 1753 solicited the Hudson's Bay Company for permission to visit the Indians belonging to the factories, Hia appli- cation proving fruitless, some of the friefida in London, joined by several well-disposed merchants, fitted out a ves- sel for a trading voyage on the coast of Labrador. Four I>erBons went out in her, together wiih Christian Erhard, a Dutchman, who having been engaged in the whale fishery in Diako Bay, had picked up some knowledge of the Greeu- landic. n . ' They set sail in May 1752, and in July cast anchor in a large bay on the coast of Labrador, to which they gave tlie name of Ni^bel's Haven, in honour of one of the owners of the ship. Here th«^y deloiuineU tu fu tlieir residence, and Jc.yt^A'^i .V^^iSC*""- TU THK NUHTH POLK. 147 erected their houie which they had taken with them ready framed. Erbard meanwhile proceeded with the ahip far- ther to the north, for the purpoae of trade. He found that he could make himself tolerably well understood by the Ga- quimaux ; but as they were afraid to come on board on ac- count of the guns, he suffered them to persuade him to land in a bay between the islands in an unarmed boat with five of the crew. None of them returned, and aa the ship had not another boat, no search could be made for them. The cap- tain, having waited several days without being able to ga- ther any information respecting their fate, sailed back to Nisbet'a Haven, and callmg on board the settlers, repre- sented to them, that after the loss of his boat and the best part of bis men, he could nut accomplish his voyage home witliout their asaiatauoe. Under such circumstances they could not refuse his request ; but they left the place with regret, and consoled themselves with the thoughts of re- turning in the following year. On their arrival in England it waa not deemed advisable to renew the attempt, until intelligeuce ahould be received of the safety of Erhard and his companions ; and aa on the return of the ship, several of their dead bodies were discovered, and the deserted house was burnt to the ground, both the trade and the mission were for that time abandoned. In 1704, Jens Haven, who had laboured for several years as a missionary in Greenland, and had recently returned with Crantz to Germany, proposed to resume this enter' prise. With this intention, he came to England, and was introduced by the Brethen in London to Hugh Paliiser, esq. (afterwards Sir Hugh Palliser) the governor of Newfound- land, who freely offert'l him his support, and gave him the necessary letters of recommendation. The governor him- self arriving shortly after at his station, issued a proclama- tion in his favour, which reflects no less credit on his own judgment than on the disinterested zeal of Jens Haven. " Hitherto," he says, " the Esquimaux have been consi- ">#*- ;, 158 parry's second voyage 11 Vi 'f 1 w ^^m » I dered in no other light than as thieves and murderers ; but as Mr. Haven has formed the laudable plan notonly of unit- ing these people with the English nation, but of instructing them in the Christian religion, I require, by virtue of the power delegated to me, that all men, whomsoever it may concern, lend him all the assistance in their power." In May of the same year he arrived at St. John's ; but he had to meet with many vexatious delays, before he reached his destination, every ship with which he engaged refusin^' to land for fear of the Esquimaux. He was at length set on shore in Chateau Bay, on the southern coast of Labrador; here, however, he found no signs of population, except se- veral scattered tumuli, with the arrows and implements of the dead deposited near them. Embarking again, he finally landed on the island of Quirpont or Quiveron, off the north- east extremity of Newfoundland, where he had the first in- terview with the natives. " The 4th September," he writes in his journal, " was the happy day when I saw an Esquimaux arrive in the har- bour. I ran to meet him, and addressed him in Greenlandic. He was astonished to hear his own language from the mouth of an European, and answered me in broken French. I requested him to return and bring four of the chief of his tribe with him, as 1 wished to speak with them. He accordingly ran back with speed, shouting out, ' Our friend is come.' Meanwhile, I put on my Greenland dress, and met them on the beach. I told them, I had long desired to see them, and was glad to find them well. They replied, * Thou art indeed our countryman.' The joy at this meeting was great on both sides. After the convet-sation had continued for some time, they begged me to accompany them to an island about an hour's row from the shore, adding, that there I should find tiieir wives and children, who would receive me as a friend. The steers-man and another of tlie crew, landed me on the island, but immediately pushed vff again to see at a safe distance what would become of mc. I was sur- *>»1 •■:£- TO THS NORTH POLB. 159 lal, " was in the har- reenlandio. i the mouth 'rench. I of his tribe tccordingly ^d is come.' let them on see them, * Thou art ^ -was great tntinued for |to an island Lhat there I receive me rew, landed gain to see I was sur- rounded by the natives, each of them pushing forward his family to attract my notice. I warned them not to steal any thing from our people, and represented to them the danger of it. They told me that the Europeans were also guilty of thieving, to which I replied, that if they would only inform me of the delinquent, he should be punished. (' The next day, eighteen of them returned my visit, ac- cording to promise. I took this opportunity to assure them of the friendly disposition of the British government towards them, and promised that no injury should be done to them, if they conducted themselves peaceably ; I also offered them a written declaration to this effect from Governor Palliser ; but they shrunk back, when I presented it to them, suppos- ing it to be alive, nor could they by any means be persuaded to accept of this writing. They listened to all I said, with the greatest attention. " In their bartering concerns with the crew, they consti- tuted me arbiter of their differences ; for, said they, you are our friend. They begged me to come again the next year, with some of my brethren, and were overjoyed when I pro- mised that I would. I told them also, that on my return, I would speak to them of things which were of the greatest im- portance to their happiness, and instruct them in the know- ledge of God. One of them asked if God lived in the sun. Another enquired, whether it would make him more pros- perous in his ^iffairs, if he believed in his Creator. I replied, there was no doubt of it, if he attended to them with proper diligence ; but the happiness of a future life, was infinitely preferable to present prosperity, and this might confidently be expected by those who trusted in God while here, and lived according to his will. When I was about to take leave of these interesting people, the Angekok SeguUia took me into his tent, and embracing me, said, ' We are at present rather timid, but when you come again, we will converse together without suspicion.' " , On the third day the Esquimaux left the harbour altoge- •«-iri ■ W #i- U: FARftVS iWOKD VOY AtdE ther, and after a short sUy at Quirpont Haveit returned t» Newfoundland. Sir H. Palliser and the Board of Trade expressed their entire approbation of his proceedings. He therefore made a second Toyage in theen suing year, accom* panied by Christian Laurence Drachart, formerly one of the Panish missionaries in Greenland, and two others. Having arrived at Newfoundland, they went on board his Majesty'* ship Niger, Captain Sir Thomas Adams, and landed July 17, in Chateau Bay, latitude 52P, on the south coast of Labrador. Here the party separated ; Haven and Schlotzer engaging with another vessel, to explore the coast north- wards ; they did not, however, accomplish any thing material in this expedition, nor did they meet with a single Esqui^ maux the whole time. Drachart and John Hill remained in Chateau Bay, and were fortunate enough to have the company of several hundred Esquimaux, for upwards of a month ; during which period they had daily opportunities of intercourse. As soon as Sir Thomas Adams had received intelligence that they bad pitched their tents at a place twenty miles dis- tant, he sailed thither, to invite them, in the name of the Governor, to Pitt's Harbour. On the approach of the ship, tlie savages in the kayjaks hailed them with shouts of Tout oamerade, oui Hu ! and the crew returned the same salutation. Mr. Drachart did not choose to join in the cry, but told Sir Thomas that he would converse with the natives in thdr own language. When the tumult bad subsided, he tookone of them by the band, and said, in Greenlandic, * We are friends.' The savage replied, ' We are also thy friends.' Several uf tliem were now admitted on board. A man in a white woollen coat said that it had been given him by Johannetiogoak, (Jens Have!],) as a keep-sake, and en- quired where he was. They invited Drachart to go on shore, and the elders of the tribe, followed by the whole horde, amounting to not lesd than three hundred persons, conducted him round tlie encampment from tent to tent, re- ( .^ J TO TMK NORTH POLK, let ])«aCeclly exclaiiiiing, *' Fear nothing ; we are fnenils ; we understand thy words. Wherefore art thou come ?" ♦ I have words to you,' said he. On this they led him to a green plot, and seated tliemselves round him on the grass. * I come,' he began, * from the Karaler in the east, where I bad lately a tent, wife, children, and servants.' On hear- ing this, they cried out, ' These northern Karaler are bad people.' * I come not from the north,' returned he ; ' but over the great sea, from the eastern Karaler, of whom you have perha|)s heard nothing, as it is a very long time since they quitted this country. But they have heard of you, and Johannesingoak and I have visited you, to tell you that these Karaler are your friends, and believe on the Creator of all things, who is our Saviour, and that they wish you to know him too.' They were much perplexed by this speech, which they made him repeat over and over, until, at length, an old man took upon him to explain its import. ' He means Silla,' said he, and made several circles round his head with his hand, blowing at the same time with his mouth. * Yes,' said Drachart, ' he is Silla Pingortitsirsok, the Creator of the world. He has made the heaven, the air, the earth, and man.' ' But vi'iere is he?' enquired one; and * what is the meaning of • ae Saviour ?' added a secojid. Drachart using the same gCiiticulations which he had seen the old man make, replied, ' He is every where in Silla ; but he once became v. m&n, and abode many years on earth to moke men happy.' One of them now asked, if he was s\ teacher; and when he replied, that he had taught the Karaler in the east, two old nu-n, with long bear2°. But though its northern extremity, Cape P. V. 7. V *1 11 .. F\ ';: 162 PARRV S SECOND VOYAGE 4' I Itli^ ^■i:vn Ctiidley, lies under the same degree of latitude with Cupe Farewell, the southernmost point of Greenland, the rigour of the climate even exceeds, if possible, that of the latter country. This is no doubt owing to the vast tracts of land covered with snow and ice, or with immense forests, lakes, and morasses which impart a prodigious severity to the north, west, and south winds that blow in Labrador ; while on the other hand, their chilliness is mitigated, before they reach Greenland, by the intervention of Davis's Sirait. It was with the utmost difficulty that they could be in- duced to visit the harbour where the ships lay. To Mr. Drachart's assurances of friendship, they replied, laughing, " Yes, yes, we know that you will not kill us, for you arc a teacher ;" and gave him their hands in token of amity, but when, after much persuasion, they had accompanied him to the bay, they absolutely declined going on board the com- modore's vessel, and landed on the shore. Whenever they were admonished to abstain from doing any thing, their first question was, " whether they should be killed for it?" They would suffer no one to examine their boats or uten- sils, or to take any draught of them. When a shallop canio to their place of rendezvous, they would not allow the sailors to uome on shore with their arms ; they even endeavoured to take the captain's gun, considering it as an iiiiraction of the peace agreed upon, to carry weapons. An Indian, in attempting to cut away a tow from a wrecked ship, wa^j perceived by a sentinel, who presented his musket, and an alurtu was instantly given. The savages drew their knives, and set themselves in a posture of defence. One of them tore open his jacket, and bared his breast, daring the crew to fire. Order was, however, soon restored, and the bre- thren led away the Indians to their tents. Another time, a cabin-boy purloined an arrow from a kayak. A woman be- trayed the theft. A cuncourse of natives instantly flocked round him, snatched the dart from his hand, and were on the point of sacrificing hiui to their rage. They were appeased by the promise that they should have satisfaction. The cap- be: TO THE NORTH POf^B. 163 tain ordered the youth to be bound and flogged in their pre- sence ; but scarcely had he received two Sashes, when an angekok interfered, pushed back the sailor who was entrusted with the execution of the sentence, and unbound the culprit. Every one admired this instance of natural and humane feel- ing, thus unexpectedly developed in savages, whose hearts were supposed to be as barbarous as their appearance was uncouth and forbidding. The govercor wished to prevent them from crossing over to Newfoundland, where, according to their own account, they procured a certain kind of wood not to be found in their country, of which they made their darts. But since they interpreted this prohibition as a breach of peace, it was re- scinded, on their promise to commit no depi-edation on the fishing vessels they might meet with on the way ; to which engagement they scrupulously adhered. They evinced a friendly disposition and welcomed Haven on his return, and praised him for being true to his promise. But though they showed no sigrs of a hostile in- tention, they were inclined to take several troublesome free- doms with their visitors. Thus, in one of their tents, Mr. Drachart had his pockets turned inside out. They took every thing they contained, and his hat into the bargain ; how- ever, on his appealing to the seniors of the horde, they obliged the plunderers to refund their booty, even to a knife which they begged as a keep-sake. The next time the rogues picked his pocket, they thought proper to do it se- cretly. But no sooner did the old men perceive that he had missed something, than they assembled all the young sa- vages in the house, and ordered the article in question to beresiore'j. The thief immediately stepped forwards, with- out the least marks of shame or fear : " There," said he, " are your things ; you perhaps need them yourself." In their frequent journies backward and forward, between the station of the ships and the Esquimaux, the missionaries had to contend with formidable obstacles, having frequently Y 2 rffl_ 1 1 ]fl4 parry's SKCOND rOYACB ''I I ' . i. ^ SI It ';:!/» I tu spend several nig^lits together sleeploM, without a mor- sel of food, and exposed, under the open air, to the rain and wind. One dreadful night is thus described in their journal. <' September 12. In the evening, a violent storm, with rain, arose. A shallop was driven to the shore, and ran a-ground on the rocks. By the offer of an ample reward* we persuaded the savages to lend us their assistance in bring- ing it oif. Eight of them put on tbeir sea-dress, waded into the water up to the arm-pits, and toiled al it upwards of an hour, without being able to set it afloat. Our ship, meanwhile, wore away froir the shore, and left us alone with the natives. John Hill and the ship's surgeon en- gaged to follow the vessel in a small boat, and make some arrangements with the captain for their safety ; hut their boat was dashed against the ship's side by the waves, with so violent a concussion, that it overset. Fortunately they caught hold of a rope which hung over tlie side of the ves- sel, to which they clung, until those on board could draw them up. Drachart and Haven now betook themselves to the stranded shallop, but they were destitute of provisions, and the rain fell in torrents. The Esquimaux came and re- presented to us, that the boat could not possibly float be- fore the tide returned in the morning, and invited us to lodge for the night in their tents. We judged this to be the most eligible plan we could adopt in our present situation. Immediately, the ungekok Segullia plunged into tlie water, and carried us on'liis back to the beach. He then led us to his tent, gave us dry clothes, and spread a skin on the flour for us to sit on. The tent was crowded with people. They several times asked us * if we were not afraid ;' we an- swered, * We are certainly ignorant of what passes in your minds, but you are our friends, and friends do not use to fear each other.* To lliis they rejoined, ' We are good Karaler, nnd are now convinced Chut you are not Kablunat, but well-(lh|)osed Inuuit, for you come to us without wea- \ F E,4.vW-- TO THB NORTH POLE. 165 pons. They 'set before us fisli, crater, and bread, irhieh last had been given them by the sailors, and shortly after, all retired to rest. But Segullia now commenced his incan- tations, which he began withsingingsome unintelligible stan- zas, together with his wives. He then muttered over some charm, threw himself into every imaginable contortion of body, at times sending forth a dreadful shriek, held his hand over Drachart's face, who lay next to him ; and rolled about on the ground, uttering at intervals loud, but only half articulate cries, of which we could merely catch the words, ' Now is ray Torngak come.' Perceiving that Drachart was awuke, and had raised himself a little on his arm, as often as he extended his hand over his face, he kissed it. He now lay for some time as still as death, after which he again began to whine and moan, and at last to sing. yS". said we would sing something better, and re- peated many Greenlandic verses, of which, however, they could conjprehend but very little. It was in vain that we endeavoured to compose ourselves to sleep for the rest of the night ; we, therefore, frequently arose and went outof the tent ; but Segullia appeared to view our motions with sus- picion, and always followed us when we left the tent. In the morning he thus addressed us : ' You may now tell your countrymen that you have lodged with me in safety. You are the first Europeans that ever spent a night under my tent. You have shown me, by your fearless behaviour amongst us, that we have nothing to dread from you.' In return for our accommodations, we distributed glass beads, fishhooks, and needles, amongst bis people." The preparatory visits of Haven and Drachart cleaned the way for the ultimate settlement of a mission of the brethren at Nain in 1771, a grant of the land necessary for the pur- pose having been obtained from the Privy Council, and for- mally purchased by the missionaries from the Esquimaux, who testified the hightest gratification at the proceeding. .iti^^ i«e parry's second voyage ! ,:M(# M -{i Hi' Besides tlio two missionaries above-mentioned, were two married couples, and seven single brethren, the whole com- pany consisting of fourteen persons. Having taken with them the frame of a house, they immediately began to erect it, and, with the assistance of the sailors, completed it in less than two months. A company of brethren in London, united to send a ship annually to Labrador to supply them with the necessaries of life, and to carry on some trade with the natives. The missionaries also found means to be of service to the Est uimaux, and to earn something for their own subsistence, b^ building them boats, and making tools and other utensils. Soinehundredsof Esquimaux, principally of theNucnguak tribe, attended the preaching of the Gospel during the sum- mer months, but on the approach of winter they withdrew to various parts of the coast. Though they were, for the most part, very willing to be instructed, no lusting impression appeared to be made on their minds. The missionaries were therefore agreeably surprised by the intelligence, that Anauke, one of these savages, being on his death-bed in the beginning of 1773, had spoken of Jesus as the Redeemer and Saviv)ur of men, had constantly prayed to him, and de- parted in confident reliance on his salvation. " Be com- forted," said he to his wife, who began to hotvl and shriek like the rest of the heathens, at his approaching end, " I am going to the Saviour." The brethren had been prevented from visiting him during his illness by the inclemency of the weather ; but his happy dissolution had a favourable influ- ence on his countrymen, who ever after spoke of him under the appellation of, " The man whom the Saviour took to himself." As this settlement was found insufficient to serve as a gathering place for the Esquimaux dispersed along a Unc of coast not less than six hundred miles in extent, especially as it afforded but scanty resources lo the natives during tlie winter season, when they had fewer inducements to rove tt^. TO TIIR NORTH FOLB. U7 from place to place, it w aa determined to established two other inissioi) stations, the one to the north and the other to the south of Nain. Accordingly, in 1774, four of the mis- sionaries undertook a voyage to explore the coast to the northward. Though they attained their object, the conse- quences of this expedition were most unfortunate. On their return, the vessel struck on a rock, where she remained fixed till her timbers were dashed to pieces. After a night of the utmost anxiety, they betook themselves early the next morning to their boat ; but this also foundered on the craggy shore. Two of them, the brethren Brasen and Lehmann, lost their lives; the other two. Haven and Lis- ter, together with the sailors, saved themselves by swim- ming, and reached a barren rock. Here they must inevit- ably have perished, had they not found means to draw their shattered boat on shore, and repair it so far that they could venture into it on the fourth day after their shipwreck. The wind was in their favour ; and they had soon the good for- tune io meet an Esquimaux, who towed them into the har- bour of Nain. .» . . . The next year, Haven and Lister, accompanied by Mr. Beck, ventured to make a second voyage to the south, and penetrated as far as Nisbet's Haven, where the adventur- ers had first landed, and where the ruins of their house were still seen. Here, after some search, they found a spot near Arvertok, better suited for a mission-settleaient, than any yet 'discovered. But before the dircctois of the missions were apprised of this new station, they had commissioned Brother Haven to begin a new settlement at Okkak, about a hundred and fifty miles to the north of Nain. The land was purchased from the Esquimaux, in<1775, and in the following year Haven, with his family, and three other missionaries, established themselves in the place. They immediately began to preach the Gospel to the neighbout'ing savages, and though their success was not rapid, it was ^sufficient to animate their i I ' ■i 'i iifkj'# 1. '■¥ > mi 'Ml Pi v late let PAKRV > SECOND >OVA<:i; spirits. In 177H the itix firitt adults of this |vlaco were bnp< tized, and many niorr. were added in a short time. Jd March, 17H2, (wo of the naissionaiies experienced a moKl meroirul intorpouiliou of Providence wlicn their lives were in tlie utmost diuiii^er. Samuel Liebisch, one of the missiunaries at Nuin, being at that time entrusted witli the general direction of the settlements in Labrador, the a, had ' '^e cracks and Asaurea, soiae of whith or two feet wide ; but as these ar^ i' best state, and \the dogs easily ^e following without dangeri tliey anger". -'nrA formed chasms ot not uncommon e< leap over them, t<< are terrible only to But as soon .i» tbe sun declined towards the west, the wind increased to a storm, the bank of clouds from tbe east began to ascend, and the dark streaks to put tbemselTcs ia motion against the wind. The snow was violently driven about by partial whirl winds, both on the ice and from off tbe peaks of the high mountains, and filled the air. At the same time the swell had increased so much that its effects upon the ice were very extraordinary and not less alarming The sledges, instead of gliding smoothly along upon an even surface, now ran with violence after the dogs, and now seemed with difficulty to mount a rising hill ; for the elaS' ticity of so vast a body of ioe, many leagues square, resting on a troubled sea, though it was in some parts three or fouf yards thick, gave it an uudulatory motion, not unlike that of a sheet of paper accommodating itself to the surface of a rippling stream. Noises, too, were now distinctly lieard in many directions, like the report of cannon, owing to tbo bursting of the ice at a distance. Dismayed at tliese prognostics, tbe travellers drove wilh all haste towards the shore, intending to take up their night- quarters on the north side of the Uivak { but as they approached it, the ])ro9pect before them was truly terrific. The htti having burst loose from the rooks, wds heaved up and down, grinding and breaking into a thousand pieces against tlw ))recipice. with a tremendous noise, which, added to the roaring of tho wind, and the driving of tlie snow, so coa- P. V. 8. 2 I I' f'* , I ' i Im! ' Hi IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) *:< 4, ^fl ^ 1.0 1.1 I^|2j8 |2.5 |50 i"^" M^H E lit i"^ £ Iffi 12.0 1125 i 1.4 1.6 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation # ,1>^ fV -^v 'C^ w o^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4503 "9) %l^^r'i\ Imlm fUl.^ , varby's second voyage fovDded then^ that they almost lost the power ,of seeing or lieiiriiii; any tbibg distinctly. , To make the land at any risk HM now the only hope they had left } but it was with the atmost difficulty the frighted dogs oould be forced forwards, 4he>whoIe body of ice sinking frequently below the surface dfitbe >rodu, then rising above it ; and as the only time for laadingWas the u^oment of its gaining the level of the shoye, the attempt was extremely nice .ad hazardous. By God's mercy, however, it succeeded; both sledges gained the land and were drawn up the beach) though with much difficulty. Scarcely had they reached the shore, when that part of the ice, from which they had just escaped, burst asunder, Mid the water rushing up from beneath, covered and pre- cipitated it into the deep. In an instant, as if at a signal, the whole mass of ice extending for several miles from the coast, and on both sides as far as the eye could reach, begau to crack and sink under the immense waves. The scene was tremendous and awfully grand ; the monstrous fields of ice raising themselves out of the ocean, striking against each other, and plunging into the deep, with a violence not to be described, and a noise like the discharge of innumerable batteries of heavy guns. The darkness of the night, the roaring of the wind and sea, and the dashing of the waves and ice against the rocks, filled the travellers with sensa« tions of awe and horror which almost deprived them of the power of utterance. They stood overwhelmed with aston- ishment at their miraculous escape, and even the pagan Es- quimaux expressed gratitude to God for their deliverance. The Esquimaux now began to build a snow house, about thirty paces from the beach, and about nine o'clock all of them crept into it, thankful for even such a place of refuge from the chilling and violent blasts of the storm. Before entering it, they once more turned their eyes to the sen, winch was now free from ice, and beheld, with horror mingled wiUi gratitude, the enormous waves driving furiously before m TO THE NORTfl POLE. 1^ part oi isunder* aud pre- a signal from the 5h, begau scene was >\ds of ice inst each . not to be jumerable Bight, tbe the iwave» ^ seosa- lem of the ,iih astoD- lagan £** iiverance* ^use, about dock all of of refuge Before ^o tbe spfii [or mingled (he wind, like huge floating castles, and approaching' ^Ui shore, where, with hideous commotion, they daiitiid against the rooks, foaming, and filling th6 air with' Ib^' spMiy. The wholto company now toiok tapper, 'aiMt,'Miftetf' singing aMerenittg'hytain^ thejf lajf ^diArtfrWrtot «bdtt«ten o^bhickl The Eiiqiiiiiiaifx 'Were soon fost asleep^ fcut^UeUieh could get no rest, .bdog kept awake' by the tunmit Ht lh« '«ltt^ ment^ and iaulFeriog at the tame liAie from a eore throat, which gave hind great pain. '" The wakefulness of the missionary proved the delireninee of tlw whole party fh»m sudden destruetioD. About two o^bok'in the morning, Idiebisch waeaturtled bysottke drops oft tiitt water fklling from the roof of Ihe snow home upoM Mi' lips; ''Fheagh' rather alarmed on tasting it, he lay quiet till' thiif dropping became more frequent, whenj Just as he w«B'ftbQatto>i|^Te the alarm, a tremendous surf < broke all at one^ ehHte to the house, discharging a quantity of water into it; iaibecond qiiiokly followed, and carried «way the shib of snow fiaeedi as a door i before the entrance. Tbe brethren Immediately cried out to the Esquimaux 4o rise and quit the plane. .They jumped up in an instant; one ef them cut a passage' with bis knife through the^side of the house, and eaohi'Seiiing! spme part.of the baggage, threw it out on a higber.part-f^ the, beabh.;! While tbe missionary Turner assisted the Esquimaux, Liebisch and the woman and child fled itei a neighbouring eminence. The latter were wrapt up io la- large^skin, ' and the former took shelter behind a rock, forit ;W9S impossible to stand against the wind, siiow, and sleeti o' Scarcely had the rest of the company joined them inilttis netreat, whea anenoripous wave carried away the whek'-house.. •• ii ,•.■ / .. , In- thiA manner were they a second time .delirered from the most imminent danger of death ; but the remaining hours jof the night were passed in great distress and the most pain- fal reflections. Before tbe day dawned, the Esquimaux cut a hole into a large drift of snow, to screen the woman and z 2 ♦ 'I W(i 'C; PARHYt 8B00ND VUYA9B ot^ And thftwowiisiooarief. Liobisuli, lK>weTer, oould npt |»9iur t|ie 9lo««nffi of Itie iMr» wd wdf obliged to tit a| tVAifptnnee^ where tfwjr covered hUn witb •lUns i» deJEmd b^i tgtiiRt tke w4d, M tbe pain in )m tbroal wm pxtrevMf A* P90Q M ilt wasligbli tliejf built fopl^er fnow boH«e| i^bouH eight: feftf^MBse, iiiU qix or «»?«« fe«t b)gh; yet tbirir aoqanMAoifltlloiNi^erf! ftlU vety n^imrabU. , ) Xbfl mifwoaaf ieti ba4 AtJien b«it « «i«al) nleofc of protitionv with them, merely sufficient for tbo jjoiirnfiy ta Okki^y MkL t^ Ii^f4|uw»«a bad nothing lU alh Tboy: wero, there- fiweb nhlifi^d u divide •Uheifimall supok iolQ 4ai)y porti«ni» eepeolally «8 tbf Kigh bt|ibit, or to wait fo^ a naw ioottralok over itheMft* tibieb ■dglbt BothefomM^ fw fevcral w^eeks*: Tihcy thtfsefow f esolted to oevTo out no More tbaol a liiioui^ UndahalCa dkytoebcfa. The < miaMoaaneii entry day •ndoftToli^ed io bbi| so muoh water over their lamp as' might aer^e; them loi coffee, f bey Were all preaenred in good, beattb, and .^Mit bisehvery Tsnixpeciedly reeovered oii the first day Onomhia •on throat. ' Tte Eoquiaaaux, too,' kept up their apiritt, aiifd>«t«n the aeroerer. Kassigiak, deelared that it vroa pfo* j)«r tol bo thai^fti} that they were still alive. )»^(<' ^ r Tpwarda noeitf of the seeond day, the weather cleated) and the sea^ m tit as the eye oeuld reaeh, wasperfeotly fi*ee froM ide^ but the evening was again stpmy, so that the pdrty<'«i(>i|ld not stir out of tk '^ Mkom boipse, which made the .Esquimaax very low spivif .nd melancholy. KfUt sigiak suggested, that it would oe well " to try to iaake good wcathei^;*' but: this tbio missionaries, of oovrae^ op* posedi and told him that faisheathenish praetiees were of ne avail. They were, likewiso, so pressed for provisions, that the Osquinpaux ate, one day, un old sack, made of fisfao skin ; and the next they began to devour a filthy worn- out i';^ TO TUB NORTH FOLH. r* 179 skiu, wbiclp had Mrved them for a mattraas. At tbf firat of Ibew rnmla, iftey kept repeating, in a low buipning tpoe, " Yott were a sack but a little while ago, AQd now you are food for u«.** The iavag«a, bowoTer, {Mwaess the cod* veoieot quality of being ablia to eompoea theqiialTee Iq al«ep wbeaaver they jrfeaae, audt if oeoeaaary, tbey wall 4ef p Kor d»ya aid aigbta togathev. Tba temparaAurf of tht i^ baf- iag beop fatbair naild, ocwalpned a new apiirpfl nf diatreip ; fo^itbe warm ««ba)ationf of ibe iahabitApta m^M % ffipf of the 9V0W bouae* and Ihia cauaed a vuimnti;^ dropping^ wbiob, by d«gP!eeiB, aoaked every tbiug with iff^^r, uid left lliem not a dry thread about tbeiP» npr a dry place ^ lie m* Qntbeaixlh day of their oopfinen^epit^ tb« floatiugjiee, wbiob haid for aoitic tuw lopwwed XH wn^,, waa #gf^P conn flolidatodiateaiirfn QieM^ The Eaqwimaux beiongii^ ti9 the other pledge, aet out (he ne](t morning to pyraue tMr journey to Okkak; and the brethren reaol^fid to return agaia to Nma«; Mark, their J|£aquiaaaupidtiv«rr, ran all the way muhf) KJgUpeit^ bedNre the «ledge» P9, Qnd a goof^ track; au4, Ijlter tf a veiling three boura, they reached tbf) bfty^aiid.w«r«;coii8equeu% outof d^ugeri Hefe they mad« a meal Ufke fifty miles Ibtig and abiint oife inile broad, with hijetfa mountotinous shores, ^he deer roVe in h^rdstound the'bankv of nuuerdus smaller hikes ; iiito thiese ihey are driteii by this Bb^uimauX) who then plir^ue th^ In their kiijaks,' ahd eibilyi^diBjbatcb them iHth ihet spetli': ' Butthe constitution of the mlasioinary re- ceived i ierert shockj from the intense cold and Tiolent iitdrins of show to whWh h« Was exposed,- 'house, n The firaf proclamation of the gospel in this neigbbburhood ex- cited a considerable sensation, which seemed to auj^ur fa- vouriibty fdr its reception ; but various obstacles soon showed themselves, which threatened for a time to retard, if not TO THE NORTH POLE. 175 f Jo«« rst'ijij eKw^ely to trrest its progress. The spirit of trsffio had be- come extremely prevalent amongst the southern Esquimaux ; the hope of exaggerated advantages which they might de- rive from a voyage to the European factories, wholly ab- stracted their thoughts from religious inquiries ; and one boat-load followed another throughout the summer. A Frenchman from Canada, named Makko, who had newly settled in the south, and who sustained the double charaOf- ter of trader and Catholic priest, was particularly success- ful in enticing the Esquimaux by the most tempting offers. Besides the evil consequences resulting from these expedi- tions in a spiritual point of view, so large a proportion of their wares was thus conveyed to the south, that the an- nual vessel which brought out provisions and other neces- saries for the brethren, and articles of barter for the natives, could make up but a small cargo in return ; though the bre- thren, unwilling as they were to supply this ferocious race with instruments which might facilitate the execution of their revengeful projects, furnished them with the fire-arms, which they would otherwise, and on any terms, have pro- cured from the south. 1^. Another unfavourable circumstance for the new mission, was the neighbourhood of Arvertok, whose heathen inhabi- tants too frequently allured their believing countrymen to join them in practices of the grossest superstition ; mak- ing them promise to return to their former pagan habits, which, however, they were to conceal from the observation of the missionaries ; and when their enticements proved un- availing, their chief, Kapik, threatened to kill the refrac- tory by his torngak. The same temptations and the same propensity to min- gle again with their pagan countrymen, in those forbidden diversions, which, however innocent in themselves, were, from their accompaniments, uniformly found to debase and brutalize their minds, existed in a greater or smaller degree, amongst the inhabitants of the two elder settlements. A .■\ inHyiiii^L. 176 PAlkkY'S 9ao^ND VOYAGE V J \ ';m k&chtf, or pI«aiUre-hoiMe, whioh^ to the grief of the n\\t- dotitriev, i»i» ereeted in 1777, by the saviges, near Niin, Md reioirted to by vnitor* fi^uifl Okkak, has been deserihvtt by tli« brethren. It was built entirely of snow, sixteen feet high and seventy square. The entrance was by a rotitid porofa, which ooitamunieated with the main body of the bouse by a long avenue, terminated at the farther end by a hear^ shaped aperture, about eighteen inches broad and two feet In height. For greater solidity, the wall near the entrance was congealed into ice by water poured upon it. Near the entry was a pillar of ice supporting the lamp, and addi- ttonal light was let in through a transparent plate of ice in the side of the building. A strihg hung from the middle of the roof, by which a small bone was sutflpended, viTith four holes driven through it. Round this, all the women Were col- lected, behind whom stood the men and boys, having each a long stick, shod with iron. The string was now set a swinging, and the men, all together, thrust their sticks over the heads of their wives at the bone, till one of them succeeded in striking a hole. A loud acclamation ensued : the men sat down on a snow seat, and the victor, after go- ing two or three times round the house singing, was kinsed by all the men and boys ; he then suddenly made his exit through the avenue, and, on his return, the game was re- newed. To discourage these proceedrogs as much as possible, the misstouaries directed their believing Esquiiiiaux to build tliemselves houses on the ground belonging to the settle- ments, in which norte werc permitted to reside whoVere not seriously resolved to renounce heathenism, and all its superstitions. This regulation Was carried into execution in Hopedale in 1788 ; and the same winter seventeen persons were admitted as candidates for baptism, of whom six were baptized next year. Of the three stations, Okkak had commonly the hrgest, and Nain the smallest number of Esquimaux, resident dur- To THB NORTH POLE. 177 ing the winter. The preachings were frequently very nu- merously attended, both at the brraer place and at Hope- dale, owing to the conflux of heathen who came from the neighbourhood. Some of these, from time to time, evinced a sincere disposition to receiye the faith of Jesus, and were accordingly baptized ; so that, though the unhappy trading voyages before mentioned bad entirely withdrawn many bap- tized families from the congregation, the whole number in the three settlements amounted, in 1790, to about eighty persons, including catechumens. A singular story, which circulated at Nain in 1773, and gained credit with the Esquimaux, may be mentioned as an instance of that deeply-rooted inclination for the marvellouB and supernatural which rendered it so difficult, even for the Christian converts, to wean themselves from their attach- ment to former superstitious notions and observances. It was reported that the men in the north had at length killed Inniikpak, with his wife and children. This was a mur- derer of such monstrous size, that, while he stood in the valley of Nain, he might have rested his hand on the sum- mit of the adjacent mountain. His dress was the white skin of the nennerluk, an amphibious bear, that hunted and devoured the seals, each of whose ears was large enough for the covering of a capacious tent. This beast did not scruple to eat human flesh, when he catite on shore, where gome affirmed they had seen him, and were vexed when their testimony was doubted. Indeed the bretbi'en in Okkak thougbt they saw such a sea-monster one evening, in the August of 1786, which rose up to the height of a huge ice- berg, in the mouth of the bay, showed its white colour, and then plunged down again, leaving a whirlpool of foam. The Esquimaux, without hesitation, pronounced it to be the nennerluk ; but as the description is so vague, we may I justly call in question whether they were not deceived by some tumbling ioe-ber^. With regard to their outward subsistence, the natives hava P. V. 8 A a '.<: t78 VARRY't fBOOMU VOTAOE I ■;. ^: •' ■ ( Ul:-'^! 1i M VI! . / Hit ^ mr Bore abundant and various retourcM than tba Greenland* Beaidea whales and seals, the bays are stocked with ers lai^ shoals of cod aad other fish, and the rivulets sfiWd Suoh plenty of salmon-trout) that the naissionaries at Nain hare, in favourable years, taken 6000 in the space of a week, The land furniahes a variety of fowl, hares, and rein-deer, which are sometimes found in great numbers in the interior, Md the Esquimaux have kilted 300 in a single bunt. Yd these supplies are so precarious, and so badly busbandeti by this unthrifty race, that (bey are notunfrequently reduced to the greatest straits in winter. Towards the end of 1795, for instance, a great scarcity of provisions was experienced in Nain, and five of the Bsquimaux were obliged to set out in sledges to fetch the deer which they had killed in the sum- mer, and deposited under stones^ In this journey, which occupied a week, they could not have travelled less than SOD miles, with no other sustenance than raw meat and cold water. In August, 1790, the misaioMuries at Nain were surprised by a visit from a native of the moat northern part of the coast, for which they were indebted to a wonderful acoidesL He had gone out on the iee In the January of 1707, with three companions, to hunt seals ; but they were driven out to seaj with the fragment on whieh they stood, by a strooi; vrind, till they lost sight of land. They must, if their reck- oning Was correct, have spent fbur months on this floating Toyage, during which time they subsisted on raw seals, which tbey caught in great numbers, and was at length car- ried to shore in a distant part of the south. The simple and confidential manner of thia NeftMander favourably distin* guished him from his southern countrymen. Amidst the discouraging lukewarmnes and deadness which prevailed amongst many members of their fleck, and the open deviations of several who had already been bap- tized, the brethren had the pleasure to perceive that on some hearts the tvord of atonement had taken its natural ef- ! I; 1/ « •.**iNi«ef>^»-*;** TO THB NORTH VOLK. Wm . ftotf produoiog a thorough change of conduct and lentu ment, and in the hour of parting nature affording the true believer a firm ground of faith and hope. Amongst the fore- moit of this elate wot the widow Either, who departed, pt Oldiak, in 17Q2. Being at Naip, on a visit with her parents, the beard of Jesus as her Creator and Redeemer, and, though quite a child, she retained a deep impression of these laving truths. It became her practice, as she aftervrards related, to resort to a retired part of the hill, near J&illanek, her birth-place, and there pour forth her prayers and com- plaints before her heavenly Friend. After the death of her father, she became the third wife of a man of a rough and brutal disposition, who ^s a murderer and sorcerer. The miseries which she had to endure from this marriage did not oease with the death of her husband ; she was hated on bis account, and her two ehildren so cruelly beaten that they died in consequence. At length, the baptised Rebecca, who pitied her in this distress, took her with her to Okkak* Here her ardent aspirations for all the blessings of Christ's family were soon satisfied, and she passed the remainder of her mortal life in an increasingly happy communion with her God. *' He is my Father," she would often say ; '* where- ver I am, be is with me ; and I can tell him all my wants.** She was the first of the Esquimaux who kept their profes- sion of faith unblemished to the end. She oonstbntly de- dined all offers of marriage, whether from believers or hea- thens, that she might continue, in summer as well as win- ter, vrUh the brethren. Her natural talents were consider- able, and she soon learned to readand write. In herlasttHness she expressed her feelings in the words of holy writ : " Whe- ther I live, I live unto the Lord, and whether I die, I die unto the Lord ; vrhether I live, therefore, or die, I am the Lord's. He laid down his life for my ransom, and he vritl keep his purchase." She died in her thirtieth year. '^^'^ About the same time, the missionaries had the pleasure to witness the conversion of Tu g^avina, a noted Esquimaux, A a 2 mlM~.. ":^' ^S^l'Z^JHiini^x 180 par«y'i» kbcond VUVAOe ; • I 1 :; "k who, with Ilia wife Mililtalc, bad rendered great aaiiitaOM to tliem in their first settlement in Labrador. By bis strength, courage, and penetration, combined with the reputation of a potent wizard, be had acquired an unbounded influenoe over bis wealcer countrymen, and his word passed for law. He had committed many murders with his own hands, and was accessary to many more; for if any one had incurred his resentment, he had only tu declare that the torngak bad decreed bis deatti, and a multitude of bands were instantly raised (o seal the doom. But in the progress of years* when bis bodily vigour began to decline, his extraordinary ascendency, which rested entirely upon his personal quali- ties, declined with it, according lo the common fate of sa- vage chieftains. His friends of his own standing were con- tinually dropping off, while those who inherited the wrongs done to their murdered or insulted kinsmen, were strong in youth and number. Tuglavioa was reduced to poverty j of bis numerous wives, some deserted him in the wane of bis fortunes, others were violently taken from him, without his daring to make resistance ; and only one of them all re- mained. In these depressed circumstances, he could no longer repress those pangs of compunction and remorse by which be was assailed. On the first arrival of the brethren in the country^ he had been convinced by their testimony, that he was a guilty and miserable man, exposed to inevit- able destruction, if be persisted in bis career ; but be still found means to soothe the secret voice of conscience. Now, however, he declared biii resolution to change bis life, that be might seek forgiveness for his crimes, of which he made u free disclosure to the missionaries, and find rest for bis soul. On his pressing request, he was permitted to reside with his family at Nain ; and, though his pride led him at first into temporary aberrations from the right path, be gave such proofs of sincerity, that he was received into the con- gregation on Christmas-day, 1703. He had been baptized in Chateau Bay by a presbyterian minister, during a dange- ? ' TO THK NORTH POLB. 181 roui illneM. After his adiniitiun to the holy oommunion, be made visible progreit io bumility and all other ohriitian grace*, and showed great anxiety for the oonvenion of hit heathen oountryroen, to which he contributed all in hit power. Yet he once more suffered high thoughts to seduce him into such gross improprieties that it was necessary to exclude him for a time from the Lord's tabic, until he came to a due sense of his misconduct. He died in 1708, after a short ill- ness, at the age of sixty years. One uf the objects of the establishment at Hopedale had been to promote an intercourse with the Red Indians who lived in the interior, and sometimes approached in small parties to the coast. A mutual reserve subsisted between them and the Esquimaux, and the latter fled with the great- est trepidation, when they discovered any traces of them in their neighbourhood. In 1790, however, much of this cold- ness was removed, when several families of these Indians came to Kippokak, an European factory about twenty miles distant from Hopedale. In April, 1799, the mis- sionaries conversed with two uf them, a father and son, who came to Hopedale to buy tobacco. It appeared that they were attached to the service of some Canadians in the southern settlements, as well as many others of their tribe, and had been baptized by the French priests. They evi- dently regarded the Esquimaux with alarm, though they endeavoured to conceal their suspicions, excusing themselves from lodging in their tents, on account of their uncleanly habits. At parting they assured the brethren that they would in future receive frequent visits from their countrymen ; but this has not as yet been the case. In 1800, a most melancholy accident occurred at the set- tlement just mentioned. The missionary Reiman, having gone out alone on the 2nd of December to shoot partridges, returned no more, having probably lost his life by the ice breaking under him. As the weather was remarkably fine, the brethren and Esquimaux persevered in their search for ji :j?r,*; 183 parry's sbcond voyaob l< ) m V ' ' .1 him nine days, but all to no purpose ; for though his foot- steps were seen in several plaoes on the snow, they were lost again on the ice, nor were his remains erer discovered. Towards the close of 1804, the indifferent success which had hitherto attended the labours of the missionaries, owing to causes which have already been mentioned, the roving dispositions of the natives, their lurkin* unbelief manifested in their addiction to superstitious practices, particularly in cases of illness, and the absence of a vital principle of god- liness amongst those even who led a moral and decent life, was succeeded by a'new and a brighter period. A fire from the Lord was icindled at Hopedale, the very place which before presented the greatest discouragements, and spread from (hence to the other two settlements. When the Esquimaux of this congregation returned from their summer excursions, our missionaries were delighted to find that they had not only been preserved from sinful prac- ticesj but had made considerable progress in the knowledge of the truth. They had attained a deeper insight into the natural depravity of their hearts, and the wretched state of a person void of faith in Christ. This constrained them to cry for mercy ; and there was reason to believe that some, at least, had found forgiveness of thdr sins in his blood, by which their hearts were filled with joy and comfort in be- lieving. Out of the abundance of the heart, their mouths spake of the love and power of Jesus ; and their energetic declarations made a serious impression on the rest of the inhabitants. They began to see the necessity of true con- version ; and earnestly sought for peace with Gotl Bven several of the children were similarly affected. The mis- sionaries received daily visits from their people, who either came to enquire, what they must do to be saved ; or to testify of the grace of God, which they had already expe- rienced. While this heavenly flame was in full blaze at Hopedale, two Esquimaux, Siksigak and Kapik, arrived there from "y^j!ff^>^,^^a.»^t- ^ iii A m >m 't > i - '.^i, TO THB'MOKTU POLB. 183 Naio. The former of them brought his wife with him, whom be bad married from thence two years before, iatendin^ to return her to her mother, and take another wlio promised to second him in every heathenish abomination, and to leave the Christian Esquimaux altogether. On entering bis own mother's house, who likewise lived at Hopedale, he found the family engag^ in evening prayer. They went on without being disturbed by his arrival ; and he sat down quite astonished at what be saw and heard, not knowing what they were doing. On his informing them of the pur- port of bis visit, the whole company began to entreat him most earnestly not to part from his wife, but rather to turn with his whole heart to Jesus. The missionaries too, added their exhortations to the same effect, but he persisted in his determination. His relations, perceiving that he was im- movably fixed,*resorted to prayer. The following day they all assembled in bis mother's house, and in hie presence^ Joined in fervent supplications for his conversion. His mo- ther, amongst the rest, uttered the following petition : ** O my Lord Jesus ! behold, this is my child ; I now give him up to thee; Ob, accept of him, and suffer him not to be lost for ever!" This scene, so unprecedented and unex- pected, had an instantaneous effect on the young man ; he was filled with concern for bis salvation ; his whole heart seemed changed ; be desisted from his wicked purpose, took back his wife, and became an humble enquirer after the truth, to whom the Lord afterwards showed great mercy. His companion, Kapik, was also powerfully awakened by the instrumentality of his relations. On their return to Nain, these two men, with energy and b^ness, preached Jesus to their countrymen. Some of their friends heard them with astonishment ; others mocked and hated them ; but the impression on the rest of the inhabi- tants was a pleasing aud permanent one. " We saw several of our people," say the misisionaries, " yielding by degrees to conviction, and beginning to doubt whether their Chris- m ..(U..I 1 ; 184 PARRY** IBCOND VOYAGB tianity was of the right kind, and whether they had not been deceivinfr themselves and others. Tliey came and volun« tarily confessed their sins, some with many tears, and in a manner of which we liad no instances before. The more they reflected on their former life, the more deeply were they convinced of the treachery of their hearts ; they wept on account of the deceit they had so often practised, and confessed to us things of which we could have formed no conception. Though we could not but feel pain on account of their former hypocrisy, our grief was balanced by the joy we felt at the amazing power of our Saviour's grace, by which their hearts were thus broken and softened. Our drooping faith and courage revived, and we saw clearly that with God nothing is impossible." The news of these events was carried to Okkak by visi- tors from Nain, and was accompanied with the same happy effects. Many of the heathen who lived in the neighbour- hood, were so astonished at these occurrences among their bciitsving countrymen, that they resolved to move to one or other of the settlements. Even the northern Esquimaux, who passed through the place on their trading excursions, were struck with admiration on beholding this genuine work of God. They came frequently to converse with tlie mis- sionaries, listened to the Gospel with uncommon attention, and most of them expressed their earnest wish to become acquainted with Jesus as their Saviour. They expressed their regret that they lived at so great a distance, and could not well forsake their native country, but said that if the missionaries would come to them they would gladly receive instruction. The subsequent years of the mission proved that this awakening was not the momentary blaze of a meteor, scarce seen before it is extinguished, but a divine flame emanating from the Spirit of God, and kept alive by his gracious in- fluences. The labours of the missionaries became from this time comparatively light, for their instructions were no Ion- arO TilB M.O\ H rOLB. Ifl6 g«r littancd A9 •» • ttA, buit received witli »tidky by mil- liog hetrerfi ; the peiiods wer« diliffently fnequeated both by old and young ; and tlieir regular and devout ntteynddiioe on public wpr«hi|>, «bow«d th«t 4h«y oonfidened U no less t» » ple«Aunt AhM • duty. The foUuwing w one of manir simjiliiir reprageotalioBS giy«n by Ahe breiUireo of tb* cwidiMit of their fl4Mk. " Wf hftv,e oauw U) rigoioe/* they wjrile ia Itbelr jouraji,! uf 1812, ** that we know, anoBg our |)eople, many who have found remission of their sins in Ahe blpe4 of Jesuft. There are indeed exceptions, but we can ^truly lay, itb«it among the very considerable nuivbier of Ef quii»B«x who )liT« with Wt we know of few who arenotAeri^ualy/dtst- r^u^ to proftt by what Utey he«r, apd to «9(perien«e and Miloy 4hem8^f«s, that which they see their «otfQtrymen paM«M. Qur xsoroipuiMjO»n.t9 give us pleasure, £»r it is the wisHi «f Abewr very hearts ta Uve unto the X^ord ; and .thdiir otwiduot affords proofs cf Ah« mincerity of Abeir pr«fe»^ns. Thus, for example, Gsqiuimajux sisters, wlio have no hoait of t:heir own, venture »cro^ Mys • pme miles in breadth, uttiagsbe- hin4 tbeiir bushsiod/i «u their narrow k^jaks, in order to .he present iit the Hol^ Sacrament, though at the peril ofdheir lives. The baptised and candidates for b&ptism also de- clare, w-henever they Hm^e an A^portuntty of speaking pri^ yately with vs, that they seek aatisliiotioA ip noUaog but in living to J^aus, and that their favourite occupation, in lei< sure hoM^ns, consists iu singing hynvas and reading the Oos- peis which bdve-been pi'inted for their benefit. Tjheir /Chris* tian doportmeuA has this natural consequence, that their neighbours who have not joined us, are inspired with a dc- sire to hecoii)ae equally happy an4 contented. Our y^oung people are a cpfistaut subject of our moat earnest supplioa. tion wnt« the Lord, ,that He would reveal himself to ;tb«r hearts ; nor are there wanting instances amongst them of the eOioacy of divine grace. AU these blessings, whieh vie can only briefly towich upon, call for our sincerest gratitude unto the Lord; we dpveitc nurse:! ves most niUiogly toJMi P. V. 8. B B /( i I'* 4) party's sbcond yoyagb H ! ( I; nil: nh ■erTice; and if we may be permitted to bring bat ooektone to the building of his earthly Jerusalem, bow great will be our joy I" Many pleasing incidents might be detailed to illustrate and confirm this statement, but it would swell this sketch to a isizlB inconsistent with the brevity to be observed in this niar< rative. The following is a concise notice of the few {)rO- minenjt events which distinguish the remaining period' of their history. In 1811, the inhabitants of Ilopedale were attacked by one of those pestilential disorders which have so often desolated these northern coasts. The missionaries give the following account of it : '* Our Esquimaux were for a long time pre- served from any particular illnesses^ except that they were subject to a species of eruption and boils, which, however, though painful and unpleasant, were rather beneficial to their general health. But on the 24th of July, as a boat filled with our people was leaving Tikkerarsuk, one of their provision places, to return to Hopedale, several of them, one after another, were stnzed with a nervous and paralytic disorder, of a most dangerous and deadly nature, insomuch that during the next eight days, thirteen of them departed this life, of whom seven were communicants. Three of them were fishing in perfect health in the morning, and in theeven- inglay corpses in the boat. Above thirty were taken ill, and some brought to the brink of the grave ; but now, thank God, the greater number have recovered, though a few are still very weak. As late as the 12th September, we buried an old communicant, called Luke. Terror and dismay seized the people, but we confidently believe that those who departed this life are now in the presence of Him whom they had known here as their Saviour, and to whose holy will they expressed full resignation. *^***«* ♦>Tf« ^^^W ^ »»iir. i " By this afflicting dispensation we have now a consider- ehle number of widows and orphans depending entirely upon charity, and we cannot withhold from them occasional i; iti:; TO THE NORTH POLB. 187 assiftance. We often oommend them in prayeil to the Father of the fatherless, who will in mercy regard their wanta/^ ' 'i** ;"i. aitim 'WKHUui !ii«r»« -'to As early as the year 1§00, the missionaries learned from the reports of Northlanders, who visited their settlements, that the main seat of the nation was on the coast and islands of the north, beyond Cape Chudleigh, and anxiously de-. sired an opportunity of carrying the Gospel into that quar-> ter. On asking their visitors whether it would be agreeable to them to have a 11/ i*n established in their country, they assured the brethren that it would give them the greatest pleasure. " The whole land," they said, " would welcome them with one loud shout of rejoicing.*' Preparations were made by two of the brethren in 1800, for « coasting voyage to explore the country in that direction, but their plan was frustrated by unfavourable winds and weather. i*wmwt»'>*- This project, however, though suspended for a time, was not abandoned ; and in 1811, the missionaries were autho- rized to fit out another expedition for the same purpose. The brethren Kohhneister and Kmock, cheerfully engaged in this difficult and perilous enterprise, for which they both possessed eminent qualifications. Having engaged a Chris- tian Esquimaux from Hopedale, as a steersman, with his two-masted shallop, they embarked at Okkak on the 29rd of June, accompanied by four Esquimaux families, besides that of their guide, amounting in all to nineteen per- sons. After encountering various dangers from the ice in their passage up the coast, which had never before been navigated by an European^ they doubled Cape Chudleigh, and on the 7th of August, came to an anchor at the mouth of the Kangertluksoak, or George River, in the Ungava, country, lying 140 miles S.S.W. of the Cape, in latitude. 58^ 57* north. Here they staid some days, pitching their tents on a green slope, overgrown with shrubs, and flanked by a woody valley, which possessed every advantage for a missionary station. "\l* ■■- jj^ : J, . fl b 2 -•,vfeKi"»;'n'.— . im PARWr'S MtrOMD TOYASB !i ; ^ 1 ?H'f^ i# A tail of six days brottght tlMm ttf the nkoutk uf Aie Kokio*ii» or South Rti ei-, «&° 86^ north latitude. It is six or seven hundred miles from Okkak, and its width about as broad as tlie Thames at Gravesend. Some wSy up the rirert they arrived at a well watered a*d^ ferfik plain> half a mile in extenty which they also considered as ulell adapted for a sattleaorent. Being Satii^d frbni the atoouats off the natives that there were no other eligible plaoe:j farther to the westj they* iftow returned homewards^ and reached Ok* kak In safety on the 4th nf October, after an abserioc of four- teen weeks^ liaTiog pertbriBad a voyage of froin twelve to thirteen htihdred mile*. It may be obiirved Ibat no further step' have yet been taken to wards tli* eltabfisbuient of a fou#tb settlement in Ungavd) a delay which has arisen partly from thw distresses uccasioned by the late eontinental war^ and partly from the following untoward accident. " October 28tby 1816^" wi'iteS ITM narrator, " the Jemima arrived in the Thames from Labrador^ after one of the Mrast dangerous and fatiguing pUs^ages ever kno«ru< The ship arrived at the drift-ici^> on the Labrador doast^ on th» lOth of JUtyw Captain Fraser found in extending two hundred mites from the land ; and aft^ attempting to get in, first at H«*)Mdal6, theti ai Naiil^ and lastly at Okkak, he was at length Completely surroundsd by iee, m4 in ttie most Im-* ratoont danger dtirihg six dayis and nightie expecting! '^^^j iii6i!ient that thb ship #oukl bis crushed in pieces, till, after very great ^teutons, h^ got towards the dixtet part of the 'w. N^terth^l^stt^ he Was beset by it for forty-nine days^ awl did not ^stich Okkak till August 29tb. The very nfext day tb« HflMie CAaSt, as f&t as the ^ye Oould feach^ was dutirely chdktid ut» with ic^ ; and after lyiDg at Okkak dearly tbree \V«eks, b# #as twice fbreed bdck by it on bis passage to Kain^ ^biiih j)ta«6 b6 did mt r^aoh fill SepWitiber 82d. After staying the usual tiih«i Captttin Fi aser protieedbd^ October 3d, to Uopedale ; but though the weather #a» ftffe^ iht biU>- : .y *-*/-. -A«r''».o tf ■*..tk . ihS^'-'^'J TO THE NORTH roLB/tf IM ii«M of lb* seMon, and the large quantities of drifl-ioe, left him little bope of reaching that settlemeftt. He toeotioned this opinion to the brethren at Nain. However, brother Knock and bit iHfe, and the two alDgle brethren, Korner and Ohristenten^ ivho were gi5V«.t^i VTf*.-- *1.H.> * *:rft.?lt«*«'^^*S«i>"fc!P'*«W;»»li>T^..i!Mf p' ■• TO THE NOMTH PCKLB/ 191 ehen- isions, e Aoii kux by before, ble gift erously t, which QoBpel in Doo- ted, aod , tvhose (ToodnesB ip a seed ' 80 gra- course of |a\ ulinies, tte a fear- 1 prompts thy of ail , to them- le harvest, their en- aay be in- earth and ind icy se- no incon- that choral of the Re- avail of his i^gquimaux* Ld animals ; kbbed with oil. The fore legs are short, stand downwards, and act as oars; the binder ones, which are situated nearly in aline with the body, on each side of a short tail, serre both for steering and accelerating their motion. They have five toes on their feet, each consisting of four joints, and terminat- ing in a sharp daw, with which the animal dings to ice and rooks. The hinder feet are palmated, having the toes con- nected by a membrane,- which the seal extends when swim- ming. Their proper element is the water, and their nou- rishment all kinds of fishes. They are fond of basking or sleeping in the sunshine on the ice or shore, snore very loud, and being very sound sleepers, arf at such times easily sur- prised and killed. ''^^ t**jimt^t n ,l»ii«i'!>^3mi.ti nttitu f nr,i! Their gait is lame, but they can nevertheless make such good use of their fore-feet, and take such leaps with the hind ones, that a man cannot easily overtake them. The head is pretty much like that of a dog with cropped ears. In some species it is rounder, in others more pointed. Their cry is somewhat similar to that of a wild boar, and their young ones make a piping noise like the mewing of a cat. The mouth is armed with sharp teeth, and the lips furnished with a strong beard like bristles. They have two nostrils, and rise to tbesurfaceevery quarter of an hour to takebreath; large fiery eyes, with lids and eye-brows, and two small apertures for ears, without any external projection. Their body tapers towards the head and tail, a formation which facilitates their progress through the water* At first sight they most resemble a mole. Their blubber is from three to four inches thick ; and the flesh, which is tender and greasy, eats pretty much like that of a wild boar. It is not so oily and rancid as the generality of sea-fowl, and would be eaten by most Europeans with a greater relish, were they not dis- gusted by the name. Some species of these animals are met with almost in every part of the ocean. .u^fut. .n .1 ^t^v^t There are five species, which, as to the form of Uieir '■it W2 PABBV'8 SaOOND VOYAGE n- ■■1! boflJMf art Attrljr alike; lMit4tffar in •!», w Ifte qutliiyof Ibcir iMiri imI in Iks ilnipe of 4h«ir iMwda.. L KiRNigMk, tiw |M«dl M»J, plM>08Uoolor« to * looff imI with A <) - 9. Tbe barp aeal, pboca groenlaadioa^ (AUaraoak,) baa a more pointed bead, a tbioker body, wore and better blubbet tbaa tbe foraaer, and irban full gMwa, meaaures four yarda in lengtb. It ia Ikon generally of a Ugbt grey colour, and baa a blaok mark oa tta back like a double .encflp oeat, vitb tbe boma dineoted tewarda eaob otber. Tbere ia also a blackiab variety without any mark. AU seato change loolour yearly, while growiag ; but tbe aU^raftion to moat conspicuoua ia tbto apeoiea. la tbe firat year it ia of a oream colour : ia ihc aecoad, grey : in the third, ooloured : in the fourth, apotted: and in the Aftb, when it to full grown, and geta ita distiHguisbed mark, Aitaraoak. Their akin to atiffand strong, and is uaed to eover trunks. S. Tbe rough aeal, phoea hiapida, (neitaek,) does not dif> fer muob from the femoer, except that its colour ia browner, incltniag to a pale white, tta hair does not lie amootb, bat is rough and bristly like 4hat of awiac. 4. The hooded seal, pboqa eiistata, besides its superio- rity in size, has under its hair a short thidi aat coat of blaek wool. Which gives the skin a beautiful grey colour. The forehead is furnished with a thick folded skin, which the animal can draw over its eyes like a cap, tp protect them from stones or sand, driven about by tbe surf in a atorm. i^ 5. Tl»e great seal, phoca barbata, is the largest apecies -iir"-^'~-- I- i n < ' ^l.K Ifcn TO THE NORTH POLR. Itt3 lily of g99»\ Uokon poKed (kerthe MtmUe AM quartfr »na>k,) i) b«Uer nMHures Sbtgwy ble.cMi'- Tiiere oration is it is of* loloiured: U groivoi ir skin m not dif- browner, Dotb, l»«t Bopuiio- coiit of ly colour. in, 'whicb 1^ protcot laurf in • 1st species uf leaJ, and about four ells long, wiUi blackish hair, and a thick skin, out of wbioh they out thongs half an inch thick, for their seal fishery. The walrus, or sea-horse, rosmarus, may be classed among the seals, which it resembles in the form of its body. Froffl its head, ' which is not pointed like a seal's, but broad, blunt, and armed with two long tusks, it might aptly be denominated the sea-elephant. j The whole animal may be about nine yards long, and the same iu circumference round the breast. It weighs about 1000 pounds. The skin is about half an inch in thickness, much shrivelled, especially ou the neck, where it is very grisly, and twice as thick as on the rest of the body. The fat is white, solid like bacon, about six inches thick ; but the train which it affords is neither so good, nor so abun- dant as that produced by seal's blubber, owing to its tough vesicles. Both fore and hind feet arc longer and more clumsy than those of the seal. The toes have joints about six inches in length, but are not armed with sharp claws. Its mouth is so small that a man cau with difficulty thrust his fist into it, and the under lip, which is of a triangular shape, hangs down between the two tusks. On both the lips, and on each side of the nose, there is a stripe of spongy skin, about a hand's breadth, stuck full of monstrous bris- tles, like treble twisted cord, as thick as straws, pel- lucid, and about six inches in length. These give the animal a grim but majestic aspect. The snout is not pro- minent : the eyes have no lids, and are not larger than those of an ox. The ears are situated in the nAeck ; their aper- tures, wuich are iu the back part of the skull, without any external projection, are scarcely perceivable. It has no cutting teeth, but nine broad concave grinders, four in the upper, and five in the under jaw. It cannot therefore catch and chew fishes like the seal, for the two long tusks bend- ing downvyards over its mouth would rather impede than as- sist it in fishing. These tusks are exceediagly compact, of . P, V. 9. C c )< 1 m lOA PARRY'I SBCOND VOYAOB U^. a finer fl^raln (ban Wory, and very white, except in tb« mid- dle, where they are of a brownish colour, like polished ma- pie. The extremities inserted in the skull, are somewhat hollow, rather compressed, and, in most animals, tixW of notches. It is a rare case that both tusks are found per- fectly wtiole and sound. The right tusk is about an inch longer than the left. Its entire length is about twenty-seven inches, of which seven lie within the skull. The circum- fei'enee at the bottom is about eight inches. Close to the head the tusks are separated by about four inches, but di- verge to the distance of ten, and are somewhat bent at the points. Each tooth weighs about seven pounds. The use the walrus makes of his tusks is, probably, partly to detach the muscles and sea-weed which he lives upon, from the rocks, partly to lay hold of rocks and ice masses in order to drag along his huge unmanageable bulk, and partly to defend himself againat the bear and the sword- fish. The following is a brief account df^he process in catch- ing whales. As soon as a whale is either seen or heard, a shallop, with six hands on board, immediately makes up to hid), taking care to approach his side near the head. Five or six boats are always in readiness for this purpose. When the fish rises to take breath, and, as is generally the case, remains a short time on the surface, the boat rows up to his side, and the barpooner pierces him somewhere near the fin. They now row back with all possible speed, before the whale can feel the thrust, and overset or crush the boat by a blotr of his tail. The harpoon is a triangular barbed piece of steel about a foot long, and fastened to a shaft. As soon as the fisli perceives the pain, it darts down to the bottom : the rope, which is about half an inch thick, a hundred fathoms long, and made of fresh hemp, then flies off with such rapidity that if it by any means get entangled, it must either snap in an instant, or overset the boat. Nine rolls of rope lie in the bottom of each shallop. One man is stationed to attend to 'II TO TUB KOBTH POLL IM the line l«it U ibould get rtTclled ; end m other to puur wa- ter on the place where it rubs on the boat'H side, in order to prevent it from firiug bythe exoesiive friction. If the whaleii not mortally wounded, he may flounce about intliedeepfor an hour, and drag after him several thousand fathoms of line ; for as soon as he is struck, the other boats hasten to the spot with a fresh supply. The Telocity of his motion equals tha flight of an eagle, and the boats make after him with all pos- sible dispatch. Should he retire under the drift-ice they follow him ; but when he dives under a large field, there is only one alternative, either to draw out the harpoon, by main force, or out the line. If he comes up a second time, they strike him with several more harpoons, and then dispatch him with lances. As soon as he is dead, he rises to the sur- face, with his belly upwards. " Meanwhile the ship uses all possible speed to join the boats which have the whale in tow. As soon as he comes up, they cut two deep slits in the blubber, through which they pass a cable, and tie him to the ship's side. The first thing to be done is to row a shallop into his jaws, and cut out care- fully, with long crooked knives, the whalebone bardera from the gums. They only take five hundred of the largest, which are worth as much as all the blubber. After having taken out the tongue, they cut off the fat from the body with long knives, in large quadrangular pieces, beginning both at the head and tail at once, and haul it upon deck with pullies. It is there cut into smaller pieces, and stowed till the fishery is over. The tail and fins are cut ofi^ whole, and reserved for making glue. Forty or fifty men mutually assisting each other, will strip a whale of its blubber in four hours. As the body of fat progressively diminishes, the ropes are removed towards the middle, and the fish turns round of itself. When the last ring of blubber is cut off, the carcase loses its buoyancy, and is committed to the deep with u joyful huzza from the whole crew. After a few days it bursts, rises to the sur- C c 2 f ■..:aesUm 196 parry's second voyage Hi IM face, and affords a plentiful repast to the seii-fowl and white bears. If the cutting up of the whale is deferred on account of the turbulent weather, or to catch more fishes, it swells gradually with a humming noise, and at last bursts with a vehement explosion, ejecting from its entrails a filthy scarlet fluid which has an abominable stench. '■' ''*' *-'• ''"'■■'* ^■'' *« When the fishery is over, the ships retire into a harbour or to a large area of ice, in order to gain more room for cutting up the blubber. After having taken it all out of the hold, they strip off the skin, which is tlirown into the sea. They cut the blubber into small oblong pieces, lower it down into the hold in leather bags, and fill one vessel after the other. While the latter work is going forward, the deck sMrims with train above shoe-top ; this is laded up or caught in pails at the gutters, and poured into the casks. What leaks out of the barrels is the finest, and is called clear train, and that which is melted out of the bulk of the blubber, browa train. The dregs are comparatively very trifling, and one hundred barrels of blubber will generally yield ninety-six of oil. Of the whale-fishery of the Greenlanders, it is to be observed that the proper whale and narwhal, are only caught in the north ; the cachalot and smaller species in the south also. Their method of taking the Greenland whale is as follows : all the natives who engage in the pursuit put on their best clothes ; for, according to a saying of their sorcer- ers, if any one of the company wore a dirty dress, especially one contaminated by a dead body, tjie whale would fly their approach, and even though killed would sink to the bottom. The women are forced to accompany the expedition, partly in order to row, partly to mend the men's clothes and boats should they get torn or damaged. They assail the whale courageously in their boats and kajaks, darting numerous harpoons into his body. The large seal-skin bladders, tied to these weapons, prevent him from sinking deep in the water. As soon as he is tired out, they dispatch him with short lances. TO THB NORTH POLE. 107 The men then creep into their fishing dress/ which is com- posed of seal-skin, and has shoes, stockings, gloves and cap, all in one piece. Thus equipped they jump upon the whale, or even stand in the water by his side, buoyed up by their swollen dress. They cut off the blubber with their uncouth knives, and though provided with such poor instruments, are very expert in extracting the whalebone from the jaws. The former operation is a scene of the utmost confusion. Men, women, and children, armed with pointed knives, tumble over each others backs, every one striving to be present at the sport, and to have a share in the spoil. It is a matter of wonder to a spectator, how they avoid wounding each other more frequently. However, the scufDe seldom ends without bloodshed. The smaller species of whales, they catch like seals, or drive them into bays, till they run aground. The rein-deer is the northern stag, and is found also in Spitsbergen, Siberia, Norway, Lapland, and the most nor- thern tracts of America. It is impossible for them to exist in warmer countries, where they cannot breathe the pure mountain air, and browze the tender grass and moss of polar regions. It is well known that the Laplanders possess herds of rein-deer, sometimes amounting to several hundred, or even a thousand head, which supply them with flesh, milk and cheese, drag sledges loaded with all their substance, and even serve instead of post-horses. Those of Greenland are wild and fleet, and their smell is so acute that they rarely suffer the hunter to steal upon them unawares, especially if the wind blow the scent towards them. The missionaries caught and brought up a young rein-deer, and it grew, after some time, as tame as a child, but played the Greenlanders so many mischievous tricks, that they were forced to kill it. The largest are about the size of a small heifer, generally brown or grey, with white bellies. They are covered with very thick hair, about an inch in length. Their antlers, which they cast in the spring of every year, differ from those of the stag, in being smooth, and about three inches broad m 196 FABRY'S SBGOND VOYAOB il . «ri /■' mm iil! at top. Wlule the new horns are young and tender, they are protected by a woolly covering, which the animal after- wards rubs off. In spring they also get a new coat of hair. The rein-deer is then very lean, and its skin u thin, and little worth ; but in autumn, their hide is thick, hairy, and lined with fat. This alteniate increase and diminution of their flesh and hair, enables them to bear both the heat of summer, and the intense cold of winter. They are very cleanly, delicate creatures, and their flesh is tender, and well flavoured. In summer they crop the fine tender grass in the valleys, and in winter pick the white moss growing in the clefts of rocks, from under the snow. Baal's River was formerly the principal resort of rein-deer, and the Greenlanders used to unite in one general hunting match to kill them. The women and children surrounded a whole district, sticking up logs of wood to look like men, when they were defective in numbers ; and then proceeding in a straight line, drove all the timid animals into a narrow space in the centre, where they were easily killed by the himters. Another way was for the women to chase them in great numbers into a narrow bay, where they were pierced by the men in their kajaks, with harpoons and arrows. Since the introduction of powder and shot into Greenland, they have been thinned very much : yet many of the natives spend their best summer months in hunting them, in order to pro- cure skins for extraordinary occasions. The farther we advance northward, the fewer rein-deer are met with. Several are killed every year on Disko island, which circumstance has given occasion to the fable, that a gigantic Greenlander severed this piece of land from Baal's River, and towed it out to sea by a rope tied to his kajak ; and farther, that he intended to have united it with the main land, and was prevented by a pregnant woman, who was tempted by curiosity to peep out of her tent. In proof of this absurdity, they show the holes in the rooks, through which he drew the rope. •fO TH8 NORTH POI^K. too In June, 1794, two of the Moravian missioaarieg having gone to a neighbouring island in search of drift-wood, were completely surrounded by the ice, and confined to this dreary spot for upwards of a fortnight. Their fellow-missionaries in New Hermhut, alarmed by their long absence, and fearing that they might be in want of provisions, repeatedly sent Greenlanders to gain intelligence of their situation ; but they found it impossible to penetrate with their kajaks through the ice. The prisoners, meanwhile, had the good fortune to meet with a plentiful supply of fish, which freed them from the apprehension of perishing by hunger, and they at length made their way through the ice, though at the risk of their lives, to the main-land. But here they found them- selves at a considerable distance from the settlement, and had to perform a fatiguing journey over high hills, and down abrupt valleys, before t?'.ey arrived at New Hermhut, hav- ing been absent, a whole month. Dangerous as these excursions were to the missionaries, they were at the same time absolutely necessary, their com- fort during the winter depending on the drift-wood they ool- tected, as the quantity of wood found in Greenland, in a growing state, is very insignificant. A scarcity of this article could not therefore but occasion the greatest distress, as was the case in New Hermhut, in 1793, when the shoals of loose ice prevented them from laying in their usual stock for fuel. During the three coldest months, they were obliged to have recourse to the disagreeable expedient of heating their rooms by train-oil lamps, after the manner of the Greenlanders, reserving the little wood they had left for culinary use. Though the pursuits of the natives inure them to hardships, and their uncommon dexterity enables them to brave every shape and front every danger, yet they frequently fall vic- tims to the rigours of their clime, and are still more frequently delivercCd from situations of the utmost peril, they scarcely know how. Two trreenlanders belonging to Lichtenau, returning from \M\w If If- I I'l ,!•' , m tk I' !'-' ■■■in! 4 900 parry's second VoyA04i catching seals, found their passage impeded by a new coat of ice, with which the intense frost had ahuost instantaneously overspread the surface of the sea, of such a thickness, that their oars were soon rendered useless, and they saw no hope of extricating their kajaks from the fragments which jammed them in on every side. Their desperate situation was noticed from the shore, but it was impossible to come to their assist- ance. At last arising gale drove them out of sight, together with the ice-field in which they were embayed, leaving their friends to sufier all the tortures of the most exquisite suspence. , Fortunately, however, they reached a piece of old ice, the only one remaining in the bay, where there was barely room for themselves and their kajaks. On to this they scrambled, and reposed themselves as well as they could during the piercing cold of the night. In the morning, the new ice had become so firm that it would bear their weight, and they walked home in safety. The very next year, a large party in a woman's boat met with a similar disaster, in the same place and accompanied with nearly the same circumstances. Being overtaken by a hurricane, and unable to make the land, they took refuge on a mass of floating ice, drawing up their boat after them with great difiSoulty. Thus situated, they drifted out to sea with the wind, and were already passing the last island, when the fury of the stordn abated, on which they ventured to launch their boat and gained the land. Caleb, a native assistant ufLichtenfels was about the same time obliged to spend two days and a night in the open air when the winter's cold was moat intense. At night-time he drew his kajak upon the ice, and slept in it in a sitting pos- ture, while the thermometer stood at zero of Fahrenheit. On his return home he merely complained of thirst, though he had tasted no food during the whole time of his absence. But such privations are of common occurrence among these hardy natives. i . ,,,, , Another Greenlander had nearly lost his life by an unex- to tMb MORTn rote. 101 unex- peotdd attack Arotn an animal of the whale tribe, to which he luid approached too near with his kajak. The fi^h by a sud- den spring seized the fore-part of the skin-boat with his jaws, raised it completely out of the water, and after upsetting his enemy retreated into the deep. Two persons who happened to be at no great distance, hastened to the spot, and helped him to recover his balance, so that he escaped without any other injury than the alarm inspired by so unusual a ren- contre. But what peculiarly claims our attention in this' brief re- view of the hardships and casualties to which life is subject in these arctic regions, is the imminent risk incurred by the mis- sionaries themselves in their passage to and from their sta- tions. The voyage of Mr. Grillich to Europe on business of the mission, is one out of several instances which furnish this refi^ark. He left Greenland in October 1798, with a ship belonging to Julianahaab, but after plying about for five weeks in the lower part of the strait, the vessel was so much damaged by the drift-ice, that she was obliged to return. In Feb. 1799, he again set sail in the same ship, but the quantity of dr^t-ice ikis greater than before, and hampered them per- petually from the 18th to the 25th of that month. At length the captain finding the ship so clogged and damaged that he could not hope to save her, resolved to quit her with all the property on board. On the last mentioned 'day, therefore, the whole ship's company began their march over the ice, dragging a boat after them. They spent two nights in the open air, and had no means of quenching their thirst, but bjr drinking melted snow. On the third morning they came to open water, in which they launched their boat, and sailing five leagues, again reached the barren coast of Greenland. Scarcely had they landed when a most tremendous storm aros'e with snow and sleet, so that had they been still at sea, they must all have perished. But they were now in a very disastrous situation, without any food or covering for the night. On the following day, however, it pleased God to P. V. 9. D D Ml] m '- I -I- SOS VARRY't SBOONO VOTAOB ■■'. I- \ 'I : I ■ send them o favourable wind, with which they sailed five leagues and reached the colony at Frederisohaab in safety. After d, further detention of a month in this place, Mr. Gril- lich once more reached Lichtenfels, and finally arrived in the October following at Cojgenhagen with the ship from Godhaab. .Uy,,^' liti v.i *'• ..li-wi ,'.-.r.i,iiil>_ ii:-'-i'^ >.>•-.> Some years afterwards; in 1804, the missionary C. F. Rudolph and his wife experienced a still more remarkable preservation it an attempt to return to Europe, after a ser- vice of twenty-six yeais in Greenland. « They left Lichtenau, June 18th, and went on board the same evening at Julianahaab, the nearest colony. The ship's company consisted of twenty-six persons, including the crew of a vessel stranded in the preceding year near Staatenhuk. They had on board a cargo of 700 barrels of blubber, but no peltry, owing to the number of rats with which the vessel swarmed. After lying a month in this bay, blocked up by the ice, the ship weighed anchor, and wore her way with much difliculty to Dutch Harbour, about two miles below the colony. Here they were again detained for several weeks by the southerly winds, which drove the ice o^pstantly to- wards the shore. Intelligence at last arriving from Julianahaab, that the sea was free from ice off Nunarsuk, the captain again weighed anchor, though appearances were far from being favourable. The wind was S.E. and very high ; it rained heavily, and there was still much ice in sight. ' During the whole night they sailed continually between huge fields which made a roaring noise ; and the siea being rough, the vessel rolled ex- cessively. To secure her in some degree from the shocks to which she was exposed, large pieces of ice were fastened to her sides with grappling irons. In this manner they forced their way for three days and nights through the icy ma. "^^s which surrounded them. " £!arly on tho 25th of August," writes Mr. Rudolph in liis journal, " a storm arose from the soutli-west, which drove 6* V i '■: TO THB KORTM 1*0LU. dos sdflve safety. .Gril- ved in p from C. F. urkable c a ser- iif ' >ard the be ship's he crew itenhuk. •, but no le vessel jd up by ffay vrith es below ral weeks antly to- it the sea weighed vourable. ^vily, and ole night made a oiled ex- shocks to itened to ey forced U ma-'^f's [udolph in ich drove the ice-monntains close to our ship. The scene was awf\il and horrible; we expected momently that we should be crushed to pieces. As she drove with close-reefed sails before the wind through a multitude of smaller flaws, she struck upon a rock, from wnioh, however, she got off without in- jury. But soon after, she ran her bows with such force against a large ice-field, that several planks started at once, and the water rushed rapidly into her. The captain immedi- ately jumped into the small boat with part of the crew, and having landed them on a large field of ice, returned for anQ> ther party. The rest were employed in unloosing the large boat, with the intention of saving themselves in it ; for the ship was filling fast with water, and perceptibly going down on her starboard side, till, by the time the boat was hoisted out, only the larboard gunwale appeared above water. The captain and all the sailors having left the ship, my wife and I were left alone above our knees in water, holding fast by the shrouds. At last Captain Kiarof the stranded vessel, came to our assistance, saying, ' I cannot possibly forsake these good people.' By his friendly aid we got into the boat, and had our hammock and bed secured. Several tons of ship- biscuit, and other necessaries, with all the papers and letters on board, were also lowered into the boat. ' - ' ' ° • : ' ' ' " We now left the wreck, being about twenty-ei"-ht miles distant from Lichtenau, and about a league from the neigh- bouring headland of Nunarsuk. Our boat was heavily laden with men and baggage, and had already taken in much water. The sea broke over us continually, and the steersman fearing that the boat would sink, made for* the nearest island. It proved to be a rough pointed and naked rock, deeply exca- vated in many places by the dashing of the breakers. After ascending to some height, however, we found a small spot covered with low grass. We now endeavoured to land ©ur provisions, but the waves beat frightfully against the rock, and tossed the boat up and down so furiously, that she broke from her moorings, and was hurried out to sea. Eight men D d 2 I 1 ! i .1 m 904 TO THK MORTH POLB. IM t 1. ; J immediately pushed off in the small boat iq the hope of ceco- veriog her. They succeeded in overtaking her, and font of them instantly leaped on board, but the fury of the stonq, which whirled the waves like smoke through the air, t>affle(l all their efforts to regain the landing-place ; they were driven to the other side of the island amongst he^ps of ice and fo^tp. ing breakers, and we now beheld with horror, both our boats crushed to pieces ; nor did we entertain the least doubt that all th^ eight sailors had perished, as it a^poared impossible that they could get over the ice to shore, while the wareg rose so high. All our hopes now vi^nished, and the whole com- pany gave themselves up to lo^d cries and lamentations, see* ing no other prospect than that of .miserably perii^JuPS ^J hunger on this naked rock. In the evening we ){iy dowq to rest, close together, without tent or covering, "^^e were wet through, and lay in a pool of water ; for as it raiped hea- vily and incessantly during the whole of this and ^he fpHpwing day and night, the water flowed down in torrents fron^ the summit of the rock. " Aug. 26, we saw three men walking on the ^hore, op- posite to the spot where t^ boats had been wrecke4i 9n4 concluded that these were the only survivors pf the party. They fixed the only oar they had saved in the groun^, as a signal, and tied a handkerchief to it. " Aug. 27, the captains, their mates, and tl^e greatest part of the crew, prepared to make an attempt to gain the shore, by walking across the ice. By leaping froip piec^ to piece, and drawing tliem nearer when they were at too great a distance, with leather thongs and hooks, they, with the ut- most difficulty, accomplished their object. We willing^ would have ventured along with them ; but having fi^^ted for two days, we ^we^e conscious that we could not bear the fa- tigues of isuch a journey. We were now alone on tha rock with the ship's cook, whom weakness likewise prevented ^I'ow following his comrades. In this dreadful situation, our only Ifyope and trust was in the Lprd, our Almigbty Saviour. Wc^ TO THI NORTH POtB. 9M Raffled 9 driyea id fo«w- mr boat* mbt that iposaible ategtose o\e coxn- ionB, sep- i^gbjl J down *** ti^9d bea- s from the fhore, op- cke4. va^ the partj. )ua^, as a vere comforted in belie viog^ that He watehei over hisohlld'eo* aud that without His will, not a hair of their head shall fall to the ground. Whenever the sun shone, we employed oiur- selves in drying the few things we had saved from the wreok ; but we were at last so enfeebled by hunger, that we wera scarcely able to do even that, having nothing to support lifo but fresh water, collected in the holes and crannies of tli9 rock. All day long we looked out towards the opposittf shores, in the hope of descrying the Oreenlanders coming to our rescue ; but no Greenlanders came, and we gave way to the dreadful supposition, that the ship's crew bad perished oq ' the road. The thoughts of ending our lives on this barren rock, and lying here unburied, to glut the maw of ravens and sea-fow^ which wero constantly hovering around us, and seemed impatient for their prey, troubled us for a short inter* val ; but tk'e consolations of our Saviour supported ns^ and we soon felt entirely resigned to his will. " At length, on the 2d of September, Sister Rudolpli happening to raise herself up from the hard couch on whicb they sought repose for their emaciated limbs, e^>ied two Greenlanders in their kajaks making towards them, and hailing them. A new life now seemed to animate their limbs ; they climbed i.o the' summit of the rock, and shouted with all their might to make themselves heard. It appeared that these Greenlanders, who, according to promise, had been dis- patched by the captain to bring them off, had been roving about the island the whole day, and seeing no person upon it, were just about to return, concluding that they were dead. From them the missionaries received a few herrings and some seals' fat, after being without food for nine days. But as the Greenlanders had no boat with them besides their k^aks, they were obliged to remain on the rock till the evening of the next day, when a woman's boat arrived for them. On the 4th they came to an island where they found the greater part of the ship's crew, and the party who had been wrecked in the two boats, with the exception of one man. Tfaeae I n dM PARRT'I SlIOOND VOYACS Iff] M' || ); § "i :i if. ' i. ,'i '^'•^'■I i latter had raflTered extreme hardships, as was evident io their appearance ; for they if ere quite emaciated, and had large red spots in their eyes. " They arrived at the colony of Julianahaab, on the 8th, and after recruiting their strength, proceeded in a few days to Lichtenau, where they were received with the mo^t affec- tionate welcome, and with heartfelt gratitude to God. who had so wondronsly wrought out their deliverance. Having remained here till the following May, they set out in a Green- land boat for Liohtenfels, where they arrived, after a peril- ous voyage of four hundred miles along the coast, in the end of June." ' »w 8»«l Ko<-!SWi*»»^ it>*t»i?itro<*^ 'UH .'Mm tr.' y A party of Christian Greenlanders, having celebrated Christmas at the settlement of Lichtenau, were returning to one of the out-places, where they resided, according to an order of government, intended to promote the interests of trade. They set out in a skin-boat, or umiak, in January, 1813, when the thermometer was twelve d* jrees under Reaumer's freezing point. Before they had proceeded far the floating ice encotmtered them, closed upon them, and crushed their boat to pieces. The party escaped iipon a large field of ice, and drove about for four-and-twenty hours, when, during the night, a violent storm arose from the north, which carried them out to sea. Here they must have perished, as nothing more was heard of them. They were seventeen in number, old and young. '^' ^-m-^ ■ ; ; h x).;trw^ A Greenlander, being beset by the ice, and in danger of being crushed to death, was obliged to jump upon a large flake, and drag his kajak with a seal after him for three miles, frequently breaking in up to the arm-pits. Another time, a woman's boat split in two. But four kajaks instantly rowed up to the spot, and lashing themselves two and two together, conveyed the female party safe to land. As a missionary was going with some Greenlanders in an umiak to the Sound, after they had rowed a considerable way, their boat began to sink, and their danger was observed by those on shore. '\ TO TIIB MOUTH POLB. ( f'tnn •!! who immediately cent to apprize them of their litnatioii. It was only with the utmost exertion, that they effected a timely landing. On unloading the boat, tliey found a large hole in the bottom, which they sewed up, and put out again to sea. A widower, on the point of a new marriage, went out to catch some fish for his wedding-dinner. On hii return, he overset ; but as he was not far from land, he crept out of his kajali, laid himself flat upon it, and committing himself to the mercy of the waves, was driven by them to the shore. • > Four of the brethren, in a dreadful snow-storm, fell among the driving ice, and could neither get backwards nor for- wards. After long and wearisome toiling, they at length made the laud, but the waves were so impetuous and bois- terous, that they could not go on shore without being dashed > to pieces against the rocks. They only wished that one might escape to tell the fato of the rest. At last, however, the tide dispersed the pieces of ice in such a manner, that they could proceed on their way, and they arrived safe and well at Lichtenfels. Two Greenlanders, dispatched with letters to Frederics-' haab, related on their return, that they were obliged to sit two nights in the kajaksupon the ice, which at first kept con-' tinually breaking, till at last they met with a; .firm piece.' During tbe third night, they arrived at a house. Had they* not met with this asylum, they must have perished with thhrst, having had no water for two days and nights. The sweat occasioned by their severe labour, had penetrated through' their clothes, and was instantly congealed into ice by the ex- treme cold. Their kajaks were much damaged, and one per-' son had his hand frozen. ' As Peter Rudberg, one of the brethren, trtfs '6i^6ssiiig a' pond, the frozen snow gave way under him, and he fell into- the water. Having a belt round his body, bis ftrr coat ex- panding an the {turface, h^Id him up, till hie could reach the bottom with his long leaping staff. ' He then ' thT'ew himself backwards upon the firtn ice, and succeeded in gaining the land.' 1* BOS PARiiY'0 tae^Ma v^vaoi iiijiiji •^" • t ) JoB«*« • UT«ly ohiId« » ^«i« : In oaae of fianily quarrel* Hmongst the natives, one of the paHies, hut more eommonly the man, runs away into the wil- derness^ and lives and dies in voluntary seelusion from hu» man suoiety. Abia, an inhabitant of Liobtenfels, sud- denly disappeared, in November 1785, and as his empty kajali jvras found solite time after, cast on the shore, the ge- neral belief was th^t he had perished at sea. Nearly ten yeirs afterwards, a Oreenlander affirmed, that in a solitary eieursion to catdi eider- fowl, he had seen the long-lost Abia, sitting on a Irill, and had conversed with him. He told him his name, and enquired after his wife and children, adding, " that he had withdriwn from the society of men, merely on his wife's account. The first winter had passed very heavily, but time rendered his solitude more bearable, and he now felt perfectly at ease. Having provided him- self largely with powder and shot, when he went away, and using it sparingly, be had still a store remaining. He thoogbtinuoh of his children, and of the Saviour, and trtisted in his neroy. He had always cherished the wish to speak with one human being and only one before his death ; that wish was now satisfied, and he would never again suffer him- self to be seen by man." After making this solemn decla- ration, he beckoned the intruder to be gone. He was co- vered with rein-deer pelts, coarsely tied together, and had on a cap of bare-skin } his boots bad the appearance of be- long nettedii < . / • ■ Minute and consistent as this sitatement appears, the mis- sionaries however express some doubt whether this interview, which rests on the testimony of a single person, may not have been the delusive presentation of a dr«am> There ii TO THB NOBTH POLL Ml net the nmt grtmti for distrait, with regtrd to anotW convert, Peter, iHio ele))ed from the same settlement, isto the desert, an4 is said tu have been teen several limes in tlie si"amer of 1707, but oould be induced by Ik> |>ersMa8i«>n» to retara. An abortive project of the same liind is related in the diary of New llernrtrat for 1808, and tha pasaage merits no' ties, ss iMing an ag reeaUe proof of the stnoerity and open* hesrted dispositioo of the converts. One of the native bre- thren from Kangek, called upon the missionaries to confess, as he said, his abominable intentions. He stated tliat on ac- count of many quarrels which had late occurred in bis fami- ly, and of which he owned hHi own inconsiderate lan^i^UBge •,.■>(>;> uf-. A man seldom thinks of marrying till he is twenty years of age. About this time of life he generally pitches upon a woman nearly of his own age, and informs his parents or Clearest relations upon whom he has fixed his choice. The dowry of the bride, which consists in nothing more than her clothes, knife, lamp, and at most a stone-kettle, is not so much regarded as her cleverness in sewing and managing household affairs. She, on the other hand, looks chiefly to his skill as a hunter. The parents are not long about giv- ing their consent, for they leave their children, and espe- cially their sons, frre to follow their own inclination in every thing, Two old women are immediately dispatched to ne- gotiate matters with the parents of the bride. They at first say nothing of the marriage contract, but speak highly in praise of the bridegroom and his family. The damsel di- rectly falls into the greatest apparent consternation, and runs out of doors tearing her bunch of hair ; for single wo- men always affect the utmost bashfulness and aversion to any proposal of marriage, lest they should lose their reputation for modesty, though their destined husbands be previously well assured of their acquiescence. However their reluct- ance is not always dissembled, but often really produces surprising effects. Some females, when a husband is pro- posed to them, will fall into a swoon, elope to a desert place, or cut off their hair, which among Greenlanders is esteemed A mark of the deepest despondency. In the latter case they are seldom troubled with farther addresses. This horror of matrimony may possibly originate in the frequent examples of divorced wives and overbearing concubines. • During their daughter's bashful fit, the parents tacitly TO THB NORTH POLS. ill comply \tMh [the proposal, without any express approba- tion. The women then go in search of the refractory noaid, and drag her forcibly into her suitor's house, where she sits for several days quite disconsolat.}, with dishevelled hair, and refuses nourishment. When friendly exhortations are unavailing, she is compelled by force and even blows to re- ceive her husband. Should she elope, she is brought back and treated more harshly than before. ■'" • ' • '' • Some parents, however, provide a settlement for their children, or betroth them in childhood, confirming the con- tract by mutual pledges. The parties then cohabit as soon as they please, without any ceremony. Sometimes a mar- ried man will drag another wife home by force, whom ha finds alone or at a dance. In the latter case he must pro- yide himself with seconds, lest a scuffle should ensue, which however seldom happens. r 'm First cousins or strangers adopted into one family and educated together, seldom intermarry. Oo the other hand examples occur, though they are rare, of a man mar- rying two sisters, or a mother and her daughter. Suoh< conduct draws down general odium upon the parties con- cerned. '■"•(;!:!{ {«; i- r'!:iao;'»(i •I'r.i \o iVAU^/nhd o:'.! r'i'. Polgamy is not common among them, as scarce one out of twenty has two wives. Those wb» marry several are not despised, but merely regarded as clever providers ; and since it is esteemed a disgrace to have Ao children, and especially no son to support their declining age, such childless persons as are competent to maintain several, will seldom restrict themselves to one. They indeed, in such a case, expose themselves to the criticism of their neighbours, whether their motive was genuine zeal for the welfare of their family, or only a lascivious disposition. Those men who marry three or four wives, or women who cohabit with several husbands, are subjected to universal censure. Many women conceive a disgust for polygamy, especially since they have heard that it is prohibited in E r 2 \ 919 PA»Btr'8 sicoKD rf^rAGB h^ i I: cbriBtkiii ooHtitriM { otbcn •■courage thek huBbaads to it,, or else purcfaaM the conjurations of a» Angekok to obtai» issue. Their connubial intercourse is conducted with tolerable: dccorunk If any infidelity oocurs io the wife, the injured hasband docs net seek present punishment, but smotherS' his- resentment, tilt he baa an eppertunity ef revenging hinw self in a similar way. The dtsaigreement indeed scldoa» passes over without contmnelioue ^ expresriena om both sides, and frequently costs the wile a blade eye, which is rather surprising, as they are not at all quarrelsome er ad- dieted to blows. The marriage contract ianot so irrevoca- ble, that the husband may not divorce Inr wifc^ eqpeeialliy if she has no children. Little ceremowy is used on the oeoa* sion. He only gives her a sour look, inarches out of doMs, and absents himself for a few days^ She imaaediatety takes the bint, packe up her effects, and withdraws tO' her relations, demeaning herself In fature aS' discreetly as pos- sible, in eederto chagrin him,^ and bring scandal apon hia> OOndttCt*' »ii';;'IfiJi '■' i < <■■ '!:'•■•■••>! -^ .;) , ■■!'*- I '^ '■■' ' --Ti '! Sometimes a wife absoendis, beoaas* she canaet p«l wp> with the behaviour of her associates in housekeepiag. TMs mostly arisea from the husband's mother exercising an undue superiority, and treatiag bis wife ae Kttle better than her maid.^ It rarely happena that a separation- takea plaeB< when they have children, and especially sons, who are tlioir greatest treasure, and best security against fbtvra went. Should a divorce ti^e place^ ^e children always' follow their metlier, and, even tSiet her^deeease, never can' be pcevailed upon to assist their fiathor even in his M agei Instances have occurred in which either husband or wife,, and eepecnlly the fermei^ has fled into tbe^ wilderness,, lived many years in- the cleft of a rock, upon the uncertain produce of tAie ehace, and nhunned the society of men tilt dttath. No ono wiHi venture alone near the residenea olf such arecluse, euusidering their Hvea in danger witMnihis TO THB NORTH POLE. 919 reach. Separations most frequently take plaice l>etween y*iing couples, who had not duly weighed the eonsequences of marriage.. The older they grow, the more lovingly tbey treat each other. When a maa's only wife dies, be adorns bis person, house, and children, as well as his means will allow. Par« tioularly his kajak and darts, which are bis principal Tt'lua- bles, must be in the best repair, in order to attract the notice of the females. He however absents himself from all- parties of pleasure, and never marries again before the lapsv of a year, though he may have young children, and no on« to care for them. If be happens to have a concubine, sbs' immediately occupies the place of the deceased, after join- ing in the lamentation of the surviving relatives, and leading the funeral dance ; her countenance suffused with a flood of crocodile tears, all the while betraying her inward joy- fulness of heart. She extols the virtues of the dead, caresses hep children mure than her own, and laments over their loss ; but meanwhile so artfully suggests improvements in the household naanagement, (hat a stranger has reason* tO' be surprised at the insinuating address of this otherwise unpolished people. The woaen are not very prolific. Their children seldom exceed three op four in number, and are born, on an average, one every two or three years. When told of the fecundity of the Europeans, they compare them contemptuously to their dogs. Twins, monstrous births, and miscarriages are very rare. In general the mother goes on with her usual occupations, till a few hours before her accouchement, and resumes them very soon after the child is born. The pa- rents or midwife give it a name, taken from some animal, utenml, part of the body, or deceased relations. They pre- fer that uf its grand-parents, whose memory they thereby wish to perpetuate. But if the latter died or were killed early in life, they avoid all mention of their names, in or- dep not to renew the pain occasioned by their death. Na]r»« ' ' .'iJi » •'' 214 parry's ibcond voyaob S I t'l !i\i ' ,1 i; if a child has been called after a person, since deceased, they compassionately change the name for another. It also frequently happens that a man gets so many appella- tions from various ridiculous or shameful occurrences, that he hardly knows which to adopt, being determined on all occasions to choose the most honourable. Their fondness for their children is great. The mother carries them while walking, and doing all sorts of work, upon her back, and suckles them three or four years, hav- ing no other nourishment delicate enoui^h for an infant. Many children die when they are forced to make room for others at the breast, being unable to digest the coarse food substituted for milk. Should a child be deprived of its mo- ther in early infancy, it roust inevitably follow her to the grave. .,'•' ' ;• • •' ■ ^-i ••:■.'';■ '-.:"-\n'- •' Their children grow up without any chastisement either by words or blows. Indeed severe punishment is not so necessary with their children, who are very quiet, sheepish, and not at all mischievously inclined. Besides, their dispo- sition is such, that in case they cannot be prevailed upon to do any thing by entreaties or arguments, they would rather suffer themselves to be beaten to death than com- pelled to it. Whether this be their natural temper, or the effect of an unrestr.iined will, Jt is difficult to decide. The interval between their second and fifth year in gene- ral forms an exception to the above remarks. They are then very restless, crying, scratching, and striking all that comes in their way ; but should a mother suffer her patience to be exhausted and strike her child, especially if it be a son, who from his birth is regarded as the future lord of the house, she would ensure her husband's resentment. The nearer their children arrive at years of maturity, the more quiet and tractable they become. Very little of duplicity, self' will, or other gross failings, is observable in their con- duct. They follow their parents willingly, because it suits iheir inclinat'on^, but expect kind treatment in return, and ll TO THB NoR'i'H POLE. S1& if required to perform something against their will, an- swer calmly, " I will not do it." Ingratitude in grown- up, children towards their old decrepid parents, is scarcely ever exemplified among them. Indeed their character seems in most respects to form an exact opposite to that of children born in civilized countries, whose inward de- pravity becomes more and more developed as they advance iu years. ,.•••.. i to u, . 'Ji As soon as a boy gets the full use of his limbs, his fatner puts a small bow and arrows into his hands, and makes him practise shooting or throwing stones at a mark on the sea-shore. He also gives him a knife to cut toys for his amusement. When his son is ten years old, he fur- nishes him with a kajak, that he may exercise himself in company with other boys in rowing, recovering his pneition when overset, and catching birds or fishes. In his fifteenth year he must attend his father in the seal fishery. Of the first seal which ho catches, an entertainment is given to the neighbours and inmates of the family, during which the young adventurer relates how he accomplished his exploit. The guests express their surprise at his dexterity, and praise the flesh as peculiarly excellent ; and the females afterwards begin to choose a wife for him. Those who are unable to catch seals are held in the greatest contempt, and must live like the women upon ulks which they catch on the ice, muscles, and dried herrings. Many instances occur of those who are absolutely unable to attain the art. When a young man is twenty years of age he must be able to manufacture his own kajak and fishing tackles, and to equip himself with every thing necessary for a Greenlander. Some years after he marries, but fixes his residence near that of hi» parents during their life time, employing his mo- ther as housekeeper. _ ,^ , j , - . > u The girls do nothing till they are fourteen, but sing, dance and romp about, except perhaps caring for a child, or fetching water. They are then employed in sewing, '! w : \iV M ■ J 1 I ■■« I nJm 816 PAB«V*S *BCOllD VOYAGE iJM; 'h.;.- emikia^, and dreBaiag lentber. When they acquir* suffi- cient strength they nust learo to row ia a woman's boat, and help to build houaeti. AH gro wD-iip woflaen spend a life of slavery; WhHe they remaia with thttif parents they are well off; bat from tweaty years 0/ age till death, their life is one series of angueties, wretchedaess, and tuil. When their father dies, they inherit nothing, and must serve in other families, where they indeed do not lack a sufficiency of food, but are badly off lior decent cloathiflg. For want of this, espeeially if they are not handsome, or clever at their work, they must remain single. They never can make choice of a husband ; and shouild any one marry them, they live for the first year, especially if without children, in continual dread of a di. nmces, the Greenlanders are a polite people. Salutations and marks of respect are indeed incomprehensible to them. They laugh to see an European standing bare-headed be- fore his superior, or a servant submitting to ilUusage from his master. The children and domestics, however, show due reverence to age, t.)d all behave respectfully to one ano- ther. In company they are loquacious, and fond of ironical re- marks. A satirical manner is more effectual in debating with them, than the most solid arguments or remonstrances, de- livered in a grave, austere tone. If they are hard pressed in a dispute, they become head*strong and obstinate. They are anxious to please, or rather not to displease each other, and carefully avoid whatever might excite uneasiness. This principle seems to run through all their actions. No one interrupts another in the course of conversation ; nor do they willingly contradict each other, much less give way to cla- morous brawling. If an affront is offered, the injured party does not attempt to retaliate either by violence or abusive language ; their differences therefore seldom proceed to open quarrels, and their language does not furnish one^ingle word expressive of abuse or execration. They laugh at what they think laughable, but most heartily when an Eu- ropean is the subject ; yet their mirth is not rude or noisy. They are not ashamed of things which are notia themselves ff:! 223 PAftRY*» tBnoNi) VOYAOA If ""^- 'Ijij unnatural nnd indecent, nor will tliey bear tu bo reprimanded for tlieni. They ure however so complaisant as to forbear these rudenesses in the presence of Uuropenns, as soon uh they understand that their company will otherwise be disa- greeable. In their visits, they curry with them a small present of eatables or peltry. If they ure respectable and agreeable guests, they are welcomed with singing. All hands ore employed in drawing on shore and unloading their boatsi, and every one is eager to have the guests in his own house. They meanrnile are silent, and wait till the invitations are repeated. On their entrance, the upper garments are taken oif and laid upon the rack to dry. They are then accommo- dp.ted with dry clothes and n soft skin for a cushion. The most honourable seat is the bench, which the Europeuns ge- nerally decline. The men and women sit separate. The men converse very gravely on (he subjectof the weather and hunting ; the women, after howling in concert for their de- ceased relatives, amuse thei.iselves with stories. Thesnuif- horn, which is made of the antlers of the deer, elegantly mounted with tin or copper, is liberally handed round the circle; and they snuflfup the contents ^itli their nostrils, without any intermediate conveyance. The entertainment is in the mean time laid out, to which the whole family, and occasionally some neighbours, are in- vited. The visitors seem to be vastly indiflferent about what passes, and require much pressing to begin, lest they should iippear poor or greedy. Tliree or four dishes are the cus- tomary compliment, but a large feast consists of more. A merchant, at a banquet to which he was invited, with seve- ral respectable Greeivlnnders, counted the following dishes; dried heirings ; dried seal's flesh ; the same boiled ; half raw or putrid seal's flesh, called mikiak ; boiled awks; part of a whale's tail in a half putrid state, which was considered as the principal dish ; dried salmon ; dried rein-deer veni- son ; preserves of crowberries, mixed with the chyle from TO THU NORTH P»LB. 2SG tlie maw of the rein- deer ; aod lastly, the same enriched wUli nniii oil. The table talk is kept up fur Heveral hours without any other topic than the lenl-hunt. Their stories are indeed siiflicient lengthy, but they are tuld with such animation, that the hearers i'eel nu inclination to yawn. If the harpoon- ing of a seul for instance is described, they particularize time and |)laco uilh the utmost minuteness, point out every move- ment made by themselves or the Heal, imitate with the left hand all the windings and doublings of the animal, and with the right the motions of their ka^ak, their manner of holding the dart, taking aim, and finally piercing their mark ; and all this with such truth and nature, that it is impossible to withhold admiration. The children, who derive the chief profit from these narrations, listen with deep attention ; but (hey say nothing, except in reply to a question, and then their answer is short and modest. If Europeans are in company, their accounts of their own country are received with pleasure. Relations of this kind, however, to be intelligible to thero, must be illustrated by compurisons. For example : " A city or country has so many inhabitantif that such a certain number of whales will scarcely supply them with food for a day. They eat no whales in that country, but bread, which grows out of the ground like grass, and the flesh of animals which have horns ; and they are carried about upon the backs of great and strong beasts, or drawn upon a wooden frame." The auditors now call bread, grass ; oxen, rein-deer ; and horses, great dogs. They wonder at every thing, and ex- press a desire to dwell in so fine and fertile a country ; but this inclination vanishes when they are told that thunder is frequent, and no seals are found there. They likewise listen with willingness to discourse about God and religion as long as no application is made to themselves, and their supersti- tious fublesand customs allowed to pass uncensured. ' When the feast is concluded, the strangers are hospitably 'i\ I'll ■Bi ■'I a i'H •if^'- 1 < 1 '-IK 1 1 1 1 ^' si ■ mm 1 n 9U PARMA'S •BCOND TOYAGB •t^ \ nR ;r |VI| 1 ill directed to a lieeping place apart, and supplied with new pelts ; but they sit up out of politenes, till the master of the house has retired to rest. Their trading negociations are very simply and concisely conducted. They make mutual exchanges with each other for what they need ; and as they have a childish fondness for novehy and variety, this bartering is carried on in some cases to an indefinite extent, and to the no small detriment of their domestic economy. The most useful article is bartered for a worthless trifie which chances to strike their eye, and a valuable bargain is rejected, if the offered commodity does not exactly please them. They have no disposition to over-reach each other, still less to steal, which is considered as excessively disgraceful; but if they can contrive to cheat or rob an European, they boast of it, and plume themselves on their superior cunning. Their commerce is partly amongst themselves, and partly with factors and sailors. Amongst themselves they hold a kind of fair. Every large concourse of Greenlanders, at a dance, or the winter festival of the sun, is frequented by persons who expose their wares to view, and make known what commodities they want in exchange. Any one disposed to purchase, brings the goods in request, and the bargain is complete. The principal trade is in vessels of Weichstein, which IS not to be met with in every place. And since the Soutfalanders have no whales, while the inhabitants of the north coast are in want of wood, numerous companies of Greenlanders make every summer, a voyage of from five hundred to one thousand miles out of the south, or even from the east coast, to Disko, in new kajaks and large boats* They barter their lading of wood for the horns of the narwhal, teeth, bones, and the sinews of the whale, which they in part sell again during their return homewards. They are so habituated to these migrations, which are well suited to the love of change^ that if the motive of com- merce were wanting, they could not bear to remain in one TO THB NORTH POLV. 826 h new of the icisely [1 other tesa for le cases nent of lartered ye, and ity does ler, stiH ^racef al ; an, they cunning, nd partly ey hold a lets, at a lented by :e known disposed targain is [eichstein, since the [nts of the tanies of irom five iven from ^ge boats* narwhal, |h they in rhich are of com ■ iin \njow place. They lake with them their whole family and sub- stance, as several years elapse before their return. When arrested in their course by winter, they repair, if possible, to the neighbourhood of a colony, build a house, and arrange plans for their liTelihood. The land and sea are open to tbetn, and as some of these roving families occasionally set- tle along the coast, they every where find useful friends and acquaintances. To the factors, the Greenlanders carry fox and seal-skins, but particularly blubber, for the sake of which, the traffic was probably set on foot. In exchange they receive no mo- ney ; that is of no value whatever amongst them, and it is quite indifferent whether they have a piece of gold or a penny, glass beads or diamonds hanging round their neck. They esteem things of this kind merely because they shine, and instances are known of their giving a guinea or a Spa- nish dollar, stolefi from seamen, for a few ounces of gunpow- der or a bit of tobacco. Iron is in far more request, for they find it useful. They receive therefore from the factors ac- cording to a fixed price, iron heads for their darts, knives, saws, chisels, and needles ; also striped linen and cotton, kersey-stuffs, woollen stockings and caps, handkerchiefs, boards, boxes, wooden and pewter plates, and copper ket- tles ; wiUi looking-glasses, combs, ribbons, and various trinkets for the children. Fowling-pieces and ammunition ore eagerly imrchased, though they in general are a source of detriment rather than profit, to their domestic affairs. Tobacco, which they use only in snufij is their small coin. They expect a piece of tobacco for every service : with this drug they pay their shoemakers and tailors ; they proffer, for a small quantity of it, a handful of eider-down, a parcel of eggs, birds, a plate of fish, and the like ; and for this many a poor, miserable spendthrift barters the clothes from his back, and starves with his children, rather than part \vi(h this luxury ; this article in fine, like spirituous liquors P. V. 10. G a K':^t| ■I .■ ii s i-i' r?! ■ I J 1 < , n li m 226 PARBY'8 sbcond voyagk l- \ Mm - h I among other nations, is a fortila source of indigence and misery. Tlie dancing assemblies and the feast of the sun, are not religious ceremonies, as amongst other heathens, but solely for diversion. Tlie Greenlanders celebrate the sun feast at the winter solstice on the 22d of December, as a rejoicing for the return of the sun and good weather for bunting. They crowd together to it in large parties from the whole country, entertain each other witli their best cheer, and when they have eaten to satiety, for intoxication is impossible, the only beverage being water, they rise up to sport and dance. Their only musical instrument is the drum, 'vhich con- sists of a houp of wood or whalebone two fingers broad, of a rather oval form, a foot and a half in diameter, covered on one side only with a fine skin, or the integument of a wh.-ile's tongue, and furnished with a small handle. The performer holds it in the left hand, and strikes it with a small stick on the under surface, leaping up at each stroke, though he does not change his ground. This is accompanied with many wonderful motions of the head and whole body, and performed in common musical time, so that two strokes fall in every crotchet. He sings of the seal-hunt and their ex> ploits in the chace, chants the deeds of their ancestors, and testifies his joy for the retrogression of the sun. The spec- tators do not sit in silence, but accompany each verse of his song with a reiterated chorus of amnaajah, ajah-ah-ah! so tbat the firs;; b%r falls a fourth, and the next is begun a note higher, and so on. The musician sings four cantos in every act ; the two first commonly consist of the constant theme amna ajah ; the others are a recitative, where a short stro* phe without rhyme alternates with the chorus of amna ajab* Taken together it forms a complete cantata, as thus. The welcome sun returns again, rr Amna ajah, ajuli, ah-hu ! And brings us weather fine and fair. . , Amuu ajah, ajah, nh-hu ! ;-l:_.t: ■<•*••' .;).- -,'frH[ I- TO THtt NORTH POLE. 8S7 The singer well knows bow to express the diflferent pas- sions by the soft or animated notes of the drum and the motions of his body, which is naked down to his hips. An act lasts a full quarter of an hour. When one performer is tired and bathed in perspiration, another st«>ps into the circle. This they prolong the whole night through, and after sleeping the next day and again gorging their sto- machs, they renew the sports in the evening. These revels are kept up for several nights, till all their provisions are consumed, or till they become too exhausted to articulate any longer. He who can make the drollest contortions of his body passes for the master- singer. ], *» . > . They likewise play at ball by iftoonlight. In this game, they separate into two parties. I'he ball is thrown from one to^anothi-r o. **'c. same side, who endeavour to keep it to themselves, ^ >> i'< is the aim of the other party to wrest it from them, 'i «iuy also set up a goal, and exercise their agility at foot- ball. They have several ways of trying their strength. Two competitors, for instance, strike each other with the fist on the naked back, and he who holds out longest is declared conqueror. The successful champion swaggers about, challenging others to the contest, till he likewise is drubbed to satiety. Again, they sit down and link their legs and arms together, and he that can out-pull the other is victor. Or they vary this contest, by hooking together their fingers, and then pulling. Sometimes they tie a cord to the beam, of a house, suspend themselves to it by foot and arm, and throw themselves into many artful postures like rope-dancers. Young people are fond of turning round a board upon an axle, with an index fixed to it, something like an EO table, and he to whom the finger points, when its rotatory motion has r^ased, wins the stake. . • ,.T . . .• The children, and especially the girls, amuse themselves by, joining hands, forming a ring, and striking up a skip- ping dance, accompanying it with their voices. Such G Q 2 i [f1 _ ■■I**«r*^ * M \:. *1 -«| PARBY 8 SECOND VOYAGE dancing -mectltigs are also held at other scAsons of the year, when their store-houses are full, and little can he done at sea. The most remarkable circumstance is, that tliey eten decide their quarrels by a match of singing and dancing^, vvhich they call the singing-combat. If a Greenlander thinks himself aggrieTed by another, he discovers no symp- toms of revengeful designs, anger, or vexation, but he com- poses a satirical poem, which he recites with singing and dancing, in the 'presence of his domestics, and particularly the female part of his family, till they know it by rote. He theii in the face of the Tvhole country, challenges his antago- nist to a satirical duel. The latter appears at the appointed place, and hot' parties enter the lists. The complainant begins to sing his satire, dancing to the beat of the drum, and cheered by the echoing Amna ajah of his partisans, who jx)in in every line, whilebe repeats so many ludicrobs stories of which his adversary is the subject, that the auditor.! can- hot forbear laughing. When he has finished, the respondent Steps forth, and retorts the accusation, amidst the plaudits 6f his party, by a similar string of lampoons. The accuser renews the assault, and is again rebufi^d ; and this conti- nues till one of the competitors is weary. He who'has the last word wins the trial, and obtains thenceforward a repu- table name. An opportunity is here offered of telUng very plain and cutting truths, but there must be no mixture of ttideness or passion. The assembled spectators decide the victory, and the parties in future are the best friends. "^ ■ ' This contest is seldom attended with any disr.rderly con- duct, except that a man who is well seconded sometimes tarries off a woman whom he wishes to marry. It serves a higher purpose than mere diversion. It is an opportunity for putting immorality to the blush, and cherishing virtuous principles ; for reminding debtors of the duty of repaymetit ; for branding falsehood and detraction with infamy ; for TO THB NORTH POLE. nuuithing fraiid and inju^ice ; and, most of all^ for over- whelming adultery with its merited contempt Notbing so eff($Dtually're9trains a Qreenlander from vice, as the dread of public disgrace. And this pleasant way of revenge even prevents many from wreaking their malice in acts of vio- lence or bloodshed. Still it is easy to see that the whole af- fair depends upon volubility of tongue ; and the most cele- brated satirists and moral philosophers of the Greenlanders, are generally the most profligate in tlieir lives. ,|i| The drum-dances of the Greenlanders are their Olym* pio games, their areopagus, their rostrum, their theatre, their fair, and their forum. Here they cite each other to appear and decide their differences, without risking their lives in the duel, or wounding each other's honour by the envenomed pen. We cannot blame their method of disgrac* ing malevolence, punishing guilt, and obtaining redress of wrongs, as long as they are savages without religion, and destitute of the very shadow of civil polity. They live as we may suppose the immediate descendants of Noah to have lived, before they learned to envy iheir fellow-mortals, and to rob each other of honour, property, freedom, and life. A father governs his family to the best of his ability, has no command beyond it, nor will he submit to the authority of any one. Thus also several families living together in the same house, do not in any way interfere with each other. They merely agree to repair the house in common, and to move in and out together, as many lamps are requisite to heat it properly.. .The men however generr.lly defer to the superior wisdom of some senior father of a 'family, who is best skilled in the appearances of the weather, and in seal catching. He occupies the north end of the house, and watches over its good order and cleanliness. If any one re- fuses to follow his counsels, no compulsion or punishment is employed ; but the next winter all unanimously decline living under the same roof with such a refractory person. 'I', sso parry's SBconn voyaob and his fauIU are told him in a satire, if he is thought of sufficient consequence to deserre this chastisement; Children remain with their parents as long as they livet even after marriage, and relations in general are solicitous to keep together, that they may have the benefit of mutual assistance in time of necessity. In their voyages the whole number of kajaks in company put themselves under the gui- dance of some considerable man, who ia best acquainted with the way, but are at liberty to separate from him whenever they please. In short, no one desires to usurp authority over his neighbour, to prescribe laws to him, to call him to account for his actions, or to exact taxes for the public ex- igences. They hiave no superfluous wealth, and no oppor- tunity of growii^ ricii : their natural disposition is averse to any kind of compulsion, and the whole extent of the coun- try ia free to alk They have however some useful traditional customs by which they regulate their conduct instead of laws ; but these are very partially observed, since there is no punishment to enforce the execution, with the single exception of the sa- tirical dance. •'[■■''i \''v>;>' n :vi "j-;;*!) • ■.i'.'S't Hoi <■; Every one has liberty to choose his own place of abode; but if he finds a spot already occupied, he does not land till he has announced his intention, ami intimation is given that his society will be welcome. The chase and fishery, the only riches of this country, are the common birth-right of all. No one can complain of a trespass, if an entire stran- ger comes to a rich fishing place, or even a salmon-wear built with much labour, on condition he does not spoil it or drive away the fishes. Should the stranger disturb the prior occupant, he will rather go away and starve than engage in a quarrel. Stranded wood or the wreck of a ship is the pro- perty of the finder, but he must haul it on shore, and lay a stone upon it, in token that it is appropriated ; if this is done no other Greenlauder will meddle with it. a-i. ? > ;,; . ;.!/.! If a seal escapes with a javelin sticking in it, and is af- .1 TO TUB NORTH POLB. 9di terwards killed by another, it belongs to him who threw the ^st^art. If however it has been struck with the harpoon and bladder, and the line breaks, he loses his right. If two hunters strike the seal at the same time, they divide it. The same rules are observed with regard to fowls. Again, if any one finds a dead seal with the harpo"^ init, hekeeps the seal, but restores the harpoon tr ' 3 •*. On the cap>- tureofa. walrus, or other large sea am^.*i, the harpooner claims the head and tail ; of «the rest of the carcase any one may cut as much as he can carry oiT. When a whale is taken, the very spectators have an equal right to it with the har- pooners. On these occasions dreadful confusion ensues : se- veral of the men mount at once upon the animal, and ea- gerly fall to cutting it witR their sharp knives ; many are fre- quently wounded in the scuffle, but they bear no grudge on this account. '*'-'--''^'^' ^(Jr^.*; j ;-- -i'HiM » !^ttlu,t^mux'> Ua-r' . If several hunters shoot a rein-deer at once, it is adjiidged to him whose arrow has lodged the nearest to the heart, but the rest receive a share of the flesh. If one wounds it before another, be gaiiu the booty, though the second cast the mor- tal dart. Since the use of muskets, no 'one knowing his own ball, many disputes arise in the chase which are not ea- sily decided. If a man makes a fox-trap and neglects it for some time, another may set it and claim the captured animal. ~ . ^ , . - ^ ■ : • A person lending his boat or tools, ctmhot demand repa- ration if they receive an accidental injury, except they were used without his knowledge. On this account they lend re- luctantly. Any one who makes a purchase which does not suit him, may return it, and take back his equivalent. The purchaser can also take a thing on credit if he has not the means of payment at hand. If he dies without discharging the debt, the creditor must not afflict the disconsolate mourners by the remembrance of the deceased, but after some interval he may reclaim the article bartered, provided it is not lost in the scramble which usually succeeds the fu- 333 PABRV'S IBCOND VOYAGB ffi! M' M neral. Tbis lenient system goes so far, that if a person lesea or breaks an article taken upon credit, he is not held to his av^eement. These customs, which by their long standing have acquired the force of laws, appear somewhat strange to those who are accustomed to a different code, and are extremely perplex- ing to the factors. The Greenlanders themsehes are sensi- ble of the insufficiency and iniquity of many of these provi- sions, but ate deterred from altering them by the dread of ill report ; and their grand argument against all objections is, " This is now the custom." •■ '-' - A correct notion of tlieir national character is not easily attained. It has been drawn by some from the bright, and by others from the dark side, so that various contradictory reports have been spread upon tlie subject. Upon a super- ficial examination numerous pleasing qualitir:;s are discerned, which might put many nominal christians co the blush, and which might easily impose upon those who have had no time or opportunity to search them to the bottom, and explore the labyrinth of their character through all its secret windings and recesses. Many undoubtedly have gone to the other extreme, and will not allow them even specious virtues, set- ting them down among the most barbarous and wicked na- tions upon earth. By blending the accounts of both parties so far as they are substantiated by evidence, a statement in some measure correct may be given of the moral habits of this singular race. .. , . . ., If the term savage is understood to imply a brutal, unso- cial, and cruel disposition, ~the Greenlanders are not entitled to the appellation. They are not untractable, wild, or bar- barous ; but a mild, quiet, and good-natured people. They live in a state of natural liberty withoutg overnment, but in societies in some measure realizing the dreams of modem republicans. These societies, which consist of several fami- lies in one house, or of several houses on an island, are not kept together by fixed laws, and an executive power to en- J 'i ris TO THB NORTH POLB. force tiiem, but by a certain order mutually understood and gpontaneously agreed to. They have in this way subsisted, probably for several centuries, with more quietness than the far-famed Athens or Sparta. The Greenlauders may, com« paratively speaking, be called a happy people. Each fol- lows the bent of his iuclination, yet seldom injures, his neigh- bour, except from motives of private revenge. Authority to punish the uifringement of justice, is therefore not so in- dispensible among them as in civilized nations, where it is one of the greatest blessings of heaven. Their lives, so hard and penurious in our eyes, are abundantly blessed with con- tentment. Had they any diet more costly than seals, they would no longer be able to pursue their present simple, uni- form course of life, or find reason to pity Europeans for the multiplication of their desires. It is theif poverty also which secures the permanency of their freedom. They have no trea- sures, like the Mexicans, to allure the bands of robbers, and Lave consequently to fear no wars, no violence, or op- pression, sleeping more peacefully in their lowly huts, than the great in their sumptuous palaces. Several species of vice, so prevalent in civilized coun- tries that no laws or penalties can stem the torrent, ar^ scarcely ever observed among the Greenlanders. They are never heard to curse, swear, scold, or use abusive language, and with the exception of certain nicknames, bearing a sig- uiiicant allusion to some ridiculdus or shameful occurrence, there is not one reproachful epithet in their language. Xo bawling, noisy laughter, contradiction, brawling disputes, or slandering, occurs in their assemblies. Though they are sometimes very jocose, like to relate an unbecoming action with humorous contempt, and are very dexterous in forming double meanings, no immodest jesting, bitter mockery, obscen- ity or foolery, is heard amongst them. Lies, deception, and stealing are rare ; violent robberies entirely unknown. In- deed to judge only by their external appearance, we should not suspect them of coveting other men's goods. P. V. 10. H ■ ' i 984 PAHRv't tCCOND VOYAGB ^'f X\ ' t I It is doubtless to be ascribed in port to their abstinence from spirituous liquors, that they are so little addicted to fighting and brawling, and can bridle their resentment with such Stoical firmness. Wanton and lecherous deportinent is quite unprecedented among them. At the first sight of the indecency committed am'^^.g the lowei; class of Europeans, they stood quite amazed, but accounted for it by saying " The mad waters," that is, spirituous liqours, " have made them insane." Even in their danres and merry-makings, to which young and old resort, nothing is seen or heard that would put modesty to the blush : so that were it not for the drum and the droll figure of the dancers, a stranger ignorant of their language would almost conclude, that they were as- sembled for religious exercises, rather than for pastime. This freedom^from some particular crimes may partly be attributed to their phlegmatic disposition, partly to the ab- sence of bad examples and incentives to vice. Entire absti- nence from all stimulating food and intoxicating liquors, may doubtless also contribute a great deal towards the growth of vices, which yet lie in embryo within them. The commu- nity of land, and the penurious simplicity of their house- keeping, also tend to prevent disorder. But poverty, which must restrain the commission of some'evil practices, would un* doubtedly operate as a stimulus to others, as theft and de- ceit, so that we must trace their outward shew of uprightness in all their dealings to another source. Due reflection aided by self-interest in the mind of any rational being, it may be said, naturally leads to this first principle of justice : " Do unto another as thou wishest that another should do unto thee ;" and ignorant as the Greenlanders are of all laws hu- man or divine, they might in a greav measure be deterred from crime by this simple ax^om and by the secret reproofs of conscience. Their reasoning faculties are naturally as strong as those of other men. They sometimes use them to advantage in their concerns, and but too frequently misapply them. Yet TO TUB NORTH POLE. 364 tinence icted to ent with ttaaent is it of the iTopeans, J saying, ive made ikings, to eard that )t for the r ignorant y wercas- stime. partly be to the ab- utire absti- juors, may e growth of he commu- leir house- 2rty, -which would un- "t and de- uprightness iction aided it maybe itice: {( Do lid do unto all laws htt- deterred et reproofs )e )ng as those Ivantage in Ithem. Yet upon a closer examination of the want of foresight ond in- considerateness, mostly manifested in their dealings, we shall be rather inclined to adopt a different solution of the prob- lem. According to the opinions of some on the subject, their apparently virtuous and upright deportment proceeds chiefly from an inward impulse resembling the instinct of aui- muls, which is nothing else than the secret working of the Deity. This hidden spring operates upon shame, fear, self- love, and interest, as its agents. On this subject it may be useful to make a few more remarks. The germ or disposition to evil lives within them, and their tendency to it is as natural and strong us in the rest of the human race ; but fear of retaliation restrains them from many vices, and the dread of losing their character from more. A Greeulander dare not rob, kill, strike, or vent his anger against another either in word or deed, for such con- duct might cost himself, or a dear friend, his life. Their de- portment towards each other must be friendly and courteous, or they incur general disgrace, and are drummed out of so- ciety at the next singing combat. Young people, especially, who transgress in the least against decency or a becoming re- serve, immediately forfeit their reputation and prospects in life. Their mutual affection, sociable and obliging disposi- tion in domestic life, and their hospitality to strangers do not originate in benevolence, or sympathy with the helpless, as we shall presently see, but in self-love. From the uncer- tainty of their maintenance, a reciprocation of benefits is al- most necessary to their subsistence. A free man assists his neighbour, that he may receive a similar favour in time of need. They must be beneficent to strangers, in order that their fame for hospitality may be spread abroad, and that they may be entertained in return, when, according to their custom, they travel through the country, and have no time to procure their own provisions. In brief, the general cha- racter given by Christ, Matt. chap. v. to all heathen, that they only love those that love them, and do good to those from H H 2 i li' ''I PARRY'S NBCOND VOYAOB Mil whom they expect the lame, is fully Terifted in the Green, landera. The Greenlanderi are well versed in the false but fashion, able morality of " saving appearances.** They are verjf dextrous in stealing the good opinion of others, or at Ivast in avoiding public scandal ; and it has often been manifest, that many fine gentlemen might not be ashamed of learniiis; from them in this respect> But their character will not bear the smallest scrutiny. Numerous proofs might be cited, that their brotherly lovb, for instance, as has been remarked, Is only a mere sham, played off in hopes of speedy remune- ration. Whan a stranger dies, leaving behind him no grown. up sons, or near relations, no one pays tlie smallest atten- tion to his forlorn relict, excep. when they have occasiun for her as their servant. Every door is shut against her, and after carrying off most of her goods^ her countrynien are hard-hearted enough to see her perish with cold and hun- ger, without offering the smallest assistance. When people on shore observe a kajak overset at sea, if he be nut occu- pied by a near relation or friend, they can look on with the utmost unconcern, and even enjuy a savage delight in watch- ing the struggles of the expiring sufferer. It would be tuu much trouble to set off in another kajak and save his life. Should they be incommoded by the cries and lamentations of the women and children, they sneak off. When they sail out in company with another, they will help him in difficulty, because it casts them little exertion. Their treatment of animals, that is, such as are not used for food, also dis- plays an unfeeling heart, as even their children are exceed* ingly fond of torturing little birds, and watching them writhing with pain. Indeed both humanity and sympathy ore so en- tirely excluded from their character, that they are not even found in the weaker sex. On the other hand, the bonds of filial and parental love seem stronger in them than amongst most other nations. They scarcely ever suffer their children to go out of their rem I ^H TU THI NORTH I'Ol.f. 397 •igltt, and a motlicr hat often beton known to throw herself into the water, when her child wau drowned. This care* lessaeaa about the weal and woe of their felloW'Oreatures, with their ardent afleotion and tender anxiety for their off- •pring, goea to strengthen the notion, that the Qeeenland- era are in a great meaaure guided by an instinctive impulse rather than by rational reflection. Their wonderful inconsiderateness maybe adduced in sup- port of this opinion. Their maxim seems to be, live while ye live, and care for futurity never enters their thoughts. When tliey see any thing which takes their fancy, be it ever so useless to them, they immediately purchase it, though at the expence of their roost necessary articles, and would ra- ther suffer want, than curb their desires. If they are obliged or helped out of a difficulty by any one, especially if he be an European, they know of no other acknowledgement than kujonak, (thank you,) and will seldom return the favour to their benefactor, when he is in need of their assistance. Those among them who have any finery about their dress, stmt about with a consequential air, sneering contemptu- ously at their fellows. This is also the case if they possess peculiar dexterity in any art, particularly in seal-catching. Though they can smoother their resentment for a length of time, if it once breaks out, it rages with senseless and brutal violence. Their will must be set through ; and no remonstrances, however eloquent, will prevent them from carrying it into effect. This obstinacy, accompanied by a £ly craftiness, is most conspicuous in the old, and proceeds partly from their want of reflection, and partly from their entire insubordination in childhood. It is a quality whinh is a source of great trouble to the missionaries, unless they can previously manage to divert theui from forming their self-willed resolutions. But it may easily be imagined, that the Greenlanders are not all alike in disposition, and that consequently the above remarks must not be understood without exception. There rXRRY'S SfiCOND VOYAOB A U are some really considerate, beneficent characters among them, but they are very rare. Those are far more nume- rous, who, having deadened their sense of shame, and got rid of all dread of retribution, give themselves up to the , most detestable and unnatural vices. Lies and slander are most common among the vromen ; the poor and indolent are also addicted to stealing, especi- ally from strangers, and if they can purloin or e\en forcibly seize the property of a foreigner, it is a feather in their cap. Europeans, therefore, ought never to place much confi- dence in them, having frequently experienced their decep- ' tion. Examples have occurred in which they have enticed a foreigner on shore, murdered him, and carried off his goods. On those foreigners, however, who have fixed their residence in Greenland, they dare not practice their roguish tricks, as they are liable to be apprehended and punished. ' Their outward show of modesty is not at all to be de- pended on. However careful their young and single peo- ple may be to avoid all open irregularity in their deportment, they are in secret quite as licentious as those of other na- tions. Polygamy in the old does not always result from a desire of issue, but very frequently from pure lascivious- ness. , There are also among them harlots by profession, though a single woman will seldom follow this infamous trade. The married will break their vows on both sides with the utmost shamelessness, and though we might suppose that among such an uncultivated race, there could be no refine- ment in their licentious practices, the contrary is the case, for their women are as skilful in the language of the e;^ . as Turkish courtezans. Their unbounded self-interest, injustice, and even cruelty towards their helpless widows and orphans, are evident, from their strange distribution of their property after death. When a husband dies, his eldest sun inherits his house, tent, and woman's boat, and besides must maintain the mother and children. If the deceased has no grown-up sous, the nearest relative. If the relation has a lent and boat of his own TO THB NORTH VOLE. 239 the inberitance and responsibility falls upon a stranger, for no one will keep several of these articles at once. When the sons of the deceased arrive at years of maturity, they get nothing of their father's property. Those who have once gut possession of it retain it: but sliould the foster-father have no legitimate children, the foster-child inherits bis goods, and in return provides for bis surviving relations. So far tliere is however some appearance of order, but henceforward all their proceedings are unjust. As soon as the sons have grown up and commenced seal-catchers, all. their earnings are entirely at the disposal of the widow ; and should she forget her old benefactor, and desert his helpless offspring, there is no one to appeal to for redress. It may then be easily imagined, that the care of widows and orphans is much neglected, owing to the small likelihood of advantage from it, especially if they are entirely desti- tute. Many boys are forsaken in their youth because it is expensive to provide them with a kajak, and the necessary implements ; but still more poor unfortunate females perish from nakedness ahd starvation : but this is not the worst. When a poor widow lies distracted with grief upon the ground with her children, weeping for the loss of her bus- band, all her goods and chattels are slyly conveyed away by her hypocritical comforters. The miserable wretch, stripped of her all, has no one to appeal to, nor any other resource, but to insinuate herself into the good graces of him who has robbed most : he generally maintains her a short time. When he is tired of her, she must try to gain the favour of another. At last she and her children are left to their fate ; and after protracting a miserable existence for a short time by means of fishes, muscles, and sea- weed, they must finally he star ved, or frozen to death for want of cloath- ing and lamp-oil, This pro^^bly is one reason why the Greenland nation diminishes from year to year. The punishment of criminals is still more disorderly and savage. None are put to death but murderers, and such pi if s^^iKVl IS mm Ri^ '\ ■■«;" i\ w i if f I I M t S4M) parry's sbcoi^d voyage 'J mil :{■ • ■ 1 JRjl .' I 1. 1 , ■ inj 1, Ml! rrM n > witches as are thouglit to have killed some one by Uieir art; but with regard to these, they proceed with such temerity and revenge, that at last no one is sure of his life. The Greenlanders, as was before stated, are naturally of a mur- derous disposition. Perhaps their constant employment in butchering seals and other creatures, which proceeds from hereditary inclination, may, in a wicked heart, awaken the ' unnatural desire to spill the blood of their fellow-creatures. . Few, however, are so fiend-like as to kill from pure blood- thirstiness. Some will do it from envy at another's dexte- rity or wealth ; but most out of revenge. The assassin generally effects his purpose by stealth, on the water. He either drowns his enemy by oversetting him in his kajak, or throws a harpooh into his back, leaving the dead body to be driven about by the waves. Should the deed come to the ears of the murdered person's friends, they 8n:other their resentment, not suffering a word about it to traiispire, lest the assassin or his spies should kill them to prevent reprisals. But instances have occurred in which they did not forget to revenge the death of their relation thirty years after, when they found the murderer alone. When highly enraged, they will cut the body to pieces, and devour part of the heart or liver, thinking thereby to disarm his relatives of all courage to attack them. If the punished criminal be a notorious offender, or hated for his bloody deeds, or if he have no relations, the matter rests ; but in a general way the punishment costs the executioner himself, his children, cousins, and other relatives, their lives ; or if theb? are inaccessible, some other acquaintance in the neigh- bourhood. The lus of revenge is sometimes handed down as a birthright from father to son, without the smallest inti- mation of it till an opportunity offers ; thus the tragedy is prolonged through a series of murders, till quite innocent persons fall sacrifices to unbridled revenge. The mode of procedure with witches is very short : when the report is spread that an old woman has the power to be- TO THB NOllTU POLE. 341 witch, which she brings upon herself by pretending to charms and nostrums, if only a man's wife or child dies, if his arrow does not strike the mark, or if his gun misses fire, an Ange- kok or soothsayer pronounces sentence upon her, and if she has no relations, she suffers the punishment before described. Old men are sometimes put to death under similar Accusa- tions. Sometimes a man has been known to stab his own mother or sister in the presence of all the people in his house and no one has upbraided him in the least for it. If, howe- ver, the slain person has any near relations, they generally seek to revenge her death, and a succession of murders en- sues, When persons accused in this way have lost all hope of escape, they often throw themselves into the sea in dread of the death which otherwise uwuits them. Upon the religious creed or superstition of these people it is very difficult to give any definite information on account of their extreme ignorance, thoughtlessness, and credulity, and especially from the diversity of opinions which they en- tertain, as each individual is at liberty to adopt what tenets he pleases. Before any missionaries arrived in the country, Greenland- ers were supposed to be gross idolaters, who prayed to the sun, and sacrificed to the devil, that he might be propitious to them in their fishery. Mariners were not led to these con- clusions from the discourse of the natives, which they could not understand, but from a variety of circumstance^. They saw that the Greenlanders every morning, as soon as they rose up, stood on some eminence, apparently buried in thought, with their eyes directed to the rising sun, in order to conjecture from the colour of the sky or the motion of the clouds, whether fair or stormy weather was to be expected. Tills is still their regular practice. The sailors, who were ignorant of their motive, imagined that they were paying their devotions to the rising luminary. Others observed, in deserted places, numerous square inclosures surrounded with stones, and on one elevated stone found some cinders, with P. V. 11. 1 I I iiil • ir mm 1^ I 943 parry's 8B00ND VOTAOE IJ', a heap of bare bones lying upon them. This was quite auf. fioient to induce the belief that Greenlanders had sacri. ficsd there ; and to Vihom should they saorifioe but to the devil } These people had seen no summer-residenoe of the Greenlanders, nvho pitch their tents in such rectangular io- closures, and use the above mentioned coals for cooking their provisions. They have in fact no apparent worship, either religious or idolatrous, nor any ceremonies which might be construed into the service of the deity. There is, indeed, no word in their language for the Divine Being, from whence the first missionaries were led to imagine, that they had no conception whatever of a divinity. Upon be> ing asked who made the heavens, earth, and every thing around them, they answered, " We cannottell ;" or, " We know ^.im not ;" or, " It must have been a very powerful man ;'* or, " These things have always existed, and must endure for ever." But after obtaining a more intimate ac- quaintance with their language, the missionaries were led to entertsdn a contrary opinion, from their various notioni concerning the soul and spirits in general, and from their evident anxiety about their probable state after death. From free conversations with the natives in their perfectly wild state, in which, however, care must be taken to make no personal applications, and not to insist upon any duties to which they are disiQcIined, it is very apparent, that their forefiithers believed in a Being who resides above the clouds, to whom they paid religious worship. But this belief has gradually died away, in proportion as they became isolkted from all communication with civilized nations, till they have lost all clear notions of Deity. That they have still some obscureand concealed idea of aDivine Being is apparent from the circumstance, that though they shun any professional belief in tlie truths of Revelation yet that they never of- fer any opposition to them, but rather give a silent as- sent to the doctrines of a God and his attributes. It is only their natural slowness, stupidity, and thoughtlessness, which *'!* ■to THB NORTH POLB. 243 He Buf- \ sacn- t to the le of the ;aUr in- cooking worship, i8 which There is, B Being, ;ine, that Upon he- ery thing or, « We f powerful and must timate ac- I were led >us notioni from their ath. From fectly wiW ,0 make no ly duties to that their , the clouds, s belief has me isoliated U they have > 8tiU some parent from trofessional never of- silent as* It is only mess, which prevent them from digesting their dark notions into a regu- lar system, by due reflection upon the works of CreatioO) and upon their own anxiety concerning futurity. The fol- lowing incident indeed makes it probable, that some of them, at least in youth, before they were buried in the cares of proyiding for their families, have made some inquiry on the subject. A company of baptized Greenlanders one day expressed their astonishment, that they bad spent their lives in a state of such complete ignorance and thoughtlessness. One of the party immediately rose up and spoke as follows ; " It is true, we were ignorant heathens, and knew nothing of God and of a Redeemer ; for who could have informed us of their existence, before you, (addressing the missionaries,) arrived. Yet I have often thought, a kajak with the darts belonging to it, does not exist of itself, but must be made with the trouble and skill of men's hands ; and he who does not understand the use of it easily spoils it. Now the least bird is composed with greater art than the best kajak, and no man can make a bird. Man is still more exquisitely framed than all other animals. Who then has made him } He comes from his parents, and they came again from their parents. But whence came the first man ? He may have grown out of the earth. But why do men not grow out of the earth now-a-days ? And from whence do the earth, sea, sun, moon, and stars proceed ? There must necessarily be some one who has created every thing, who has always ex- isted and can have no end : he must be inconceivably more powerful and skilful than the wisest of men : he must also be very good, because every thing' that he has made is so useful and necessary for us. Did I but know him, what love and respect should I feel for him ? But who has seen or conversed with him ? None of us men. Yet there may be men, too, who know something about him. With such I should willingly converse. As soon therefore as I heard from you of this great Being, I believed you immediately I i 2 ' il ■t ; ' i] ' I 4 *waL%4*,^< 'mi parry's second yoyaoe mi^ ■*- and willingly, haying for a length of time longedi after such information." This declaration was confirmed by the state- ments of the others with more or fewer ciroum«(tances. One of the company made this additional remark : " A roan is formed differently from all other animals. These serte each other for food, and all of them are for the use of man, and have no understanding. But we have an intelligent soul, are subject to no one in the world, and yet are anxious about futurity. Of whom can we be afraid ? Surely it must be of some mighty Spirit who rules over us. Ob, that we but knew him ! that we had him for our friend." i!? r AlUthis tends to confirm the assertion of the great apos- tle of the gentiles : " Because that which may be known of Qod is manifested in them, for God hath showed it unto them. For the invisible things of him from the creation of the world," &c. (Rom. i. 19, 20, 21.) Thie universal re- port of all travellers informs us, that no people have hitherto been discovered who have not some notion of a Deity, be it ever so dark and erroneous. Even the stupid Greenland- ers in their various opinions concerning the soul of man, and other greater and inferior spirits, give sufficient proof of the scriptural declaration. There are iniieed some who believe, that their soul is not immortal or different from the living principle in other animals ; but these are either of the most stupid sort, who are ridiculed by their companions, or else wicked cunning men, who profess tuch opinions for their own private emolument. Others describe the soul as a being so nearly allied to matter, that it may be taken out and replaced, be divided into a number of parts, lose a portion of its substance, be repaired when damaged, and even go astray out of the body for a considerable time. Some even pretend, that when go- ing on a long journey they can leave their souls at home, and yet remain sound and healthy. These wonderful chi- meras have probably originated either in some sickness, during which their thoughts are continually busied about -!•; TO TflC NORTH POLE. 345 their birtii -place, or else in Bucb maladies as weaken, or even for a time derange tlieir mental faculties. Some of these materialists believe in two souls, namely the shadow and the breath of man, and suppose that in the night the shadow forsakes the body, and goes a hunting, dancing, or visiting. In all probability, their dreams which are numerous, lively, and often remarkably curious, have given rise to this notion. It is upon such people that the Angekoks principally depend for sustenance, since it is their business to repair damaged souls, bring back those which have gone astray, and even change them when dis- eased past cure, for the sound and healthy souls of hares, rein-deer, birds, or young children. The notion that the soul can forsake the body during the interval of sleep, and be exchanged f "that of some animal, is chiefly credited by those who beli e in the migration of Kouls, a doctrine which has lately en discovsreik among the Greeulanders* It is chiefly held >y helpless widows in order to obtain kind treatment : fur if a widow can persuade any parent that the soul of her deceased child has migrated into his son, or that the spiri'. of bis deceased offspring animates the body of one of her children, the man will always do his best to befriend the supposed soul of his child, or in the other case consider himself nearly related to the widow. . - ■ But the most intelligent Greenlanders maintain, that the soul is a being purely spiritual, entirely distinct from the body and from matter in general, that it requires no earthly sustenance, and that while the body corrupts in the grave, it shall even retain its life and consciousness, nourished by some etherial substance of the nature of which they are ig- norant. The Angekoks, who profess to have paid frequent visits to the land of souls, describe them to be soft, yielding, and even intangible to those who attempt to seize them, hav- ing neither flesh, bones, nor sinews. Hence we may easily imagine their ideas concerning the state of spirits after death. In general they represent it to in Xi4 "n'l S46 PARRY'I IBOOND rOYAOE be unchangeable, unceasing, and nauch more happy than this mortal life ; but concerning the situation and priirileges of the beatific abode of departed spirits, their opinions vary.. Since the Greenlanders obtain their best and principal sus- tenance from the sea, many have placed it in the depths of the ocean or under the earth, and suppose the deep chasms in the rocks to.be its avenues. There dwells Torngarsulc and bis mother. There is perpetual summer, and clear sun- shine uninterrupted by night. There is the limpid stream, and a superabundance of birds, fishes, seals, and rein-deer, which may be caught without trouble, or are even found boiling alive in a large kettle. But this is only to be the abode of such as have been inured to labour, which in their estimation is the chief of virtues, who have performed such mighty exploits as killing whales and seals, or endured nu' merous hardships, including those who have been drowned in ttie sea, or died in child-birth. . It is therefore evident that they have some faint idea of rewards and punishments. Departed spirits do not however make a joyful and immediate entrance into these elysian fields, but must first slide for the space of five days, or, according to others, for a still longer period, down a rough rock, which the Greenlanders, by a strange contradiction, repre- sent to be quite bloody. Whether this invention has its foundation in any notion of purgatory, or is only according to the adage that through many trials we enter heaven, cannot be determined. They always lament the fate of those poor souls, who have to undertake their journey in cold, stormy wea- ther, during which they may easily perish. This is called the second death, from which there is no recovery. The survivors therefore for five days after the decease of their re- lative, abstain from certain meats, and from all bustling work, exclusive of the capture of seals, that the spirit may not be disturbed or lost upon its dangerous expedition. It appears probable from several circumstances, that their fore- fathers offered up sacrifices for the souls of departed relatives. TO THE NORTH POLB. 347 So much is evident, that the stupid Greenlandert, as well •• the enlightened heathen of ancient times, shudder at the thought of absolute annihilation. Those among the natives who are more struck with the beauty and majesty of the heavenly bodies, seek for the happy residence of the dead, in the highest heavens, above the rainbow. They describe the passage to it to be so quick and easy, that the ^ouls the same evening in which they leave the body, arrive at the moon, who was formerly a Greenlander, put up at his house, and dance and play at ball with their companions. They afterwards encamp about a large lake stocked with vast quantities of fishes and birds. When this lake overflows it rains upon the earth. Should the dam break down, there would be an universal deluge. The first party, on the contrary, maintain that only use- less idle people, ascend into the sky, suffer great want there, are very lean and feeble, and besides have no rest owing to the rapid circumvolution of the heavens. This is especially the case with wicked members of society, such as witches, who are so tormented by ravens, that they cannot prevent these birds from tearing their hair. The other sect, how- ever, will not allow this to be their lot. By their own ac- count, they repair to a large assembly of their equals, and feast upon seal'^-heads, which though continually devoured, can never be consumed. Bat those who reason more rationally, and consider the soul to be an immaterial substance, laugh at all those ab- surdities, and affirm that a paradise so nearly resembling our mortal state, and where the souls are engaged in such earthly pursuits, cannot last long. By their accounts, the souls pass after death into tranquil abodes. Of their suste- nance and occupations they do not pretend to know any thing. On the other hand, they describe hell to be a gloomy subterranean mansion filled with everlasting horror and anguish. Such generally lead an orderly life, and ab- stain from every thing which they conceive to be sinful. , - *»»- > ) 948 parry's second voyaof. Whoever is acquainted with the corrupt ideas of tnoient philosophers, couccrning the suul and a future state, will not wonder at the stupidity of the Grcenlanders on these sub. jects, but rather observe a penetration and insight which does not marlc their ideas and conduct in general. Their dim conceptions of religious truth we may conjecture to be some small remnant of light possessed by the first men, and pre- served through the progress of tradition, which in propor- tion as their posterity removed to a distance from the seat of civilization, wryuld of course become more and more ob> sured by the idle fancies of superstition.' According to all accounts of the North Americans and Aaiatio Tartars, their way of life, manners, and opinions coincide in a great mea- sure with those of the Grcenlanders, though the latter in proportion to their greater isolation'and farther removal to the north, have lost more of the ideas and customs of their forefathers. The Grcenlanders may also have obtained some information on religious subjects from the old Norwegian christians, and afterwards have forgotten or altered it ac- cording to their own way of thinking ; especially as the rem- nant of the Norwegians were in all probability Incorporated with the Aborigines of the country. Similar traditions exist among them concerning the crea- tion, the end of the world, and the deluge, which are in part not more erroneous and contradictory than the opinions of the Greeks in the fabulous ages. We shall only mention a few of them. The first man, whom they called Kallak, rose out of the earth, and soon after, a woman was formed out of his thumb, from whom sprang Ihe whole human race. To the latter many also ascribe the origin of the vegetable and animal creat'on. The woman is said to have brought death into the world, by saying, " Let these die, that those who follow after may have room to live." A Greenland woman brought forth the Kabluncet (foreigners), and some dogs which devoured their father. One of these foreigners having used contemptuous expressions to a Greenlander, were ; liuntin This servan Ills wei ther. dition I as it in ter the earth clearei P. TU THB IfURTli POLE. iiO I>ecaiis6 ho could strike no birds, was killed by the latter with ndart. A war immediately took place, in which the Green- laiiilers proved victorious, and exterminated all the strangers. This last tradition has an evident allusion to the massacre of tiie old Norwegians, for whom the natives harbour such a (.leep rooted hatred, that they ascribe their origin to the trans- foinaation of dogs into men. Fishes were produced from chips of wood which a Grcenlander threw into the sea. Of the deluge, concerning which almost every heathen nation bas some notion, the missionaries found a very plain tradi- tion among the Greenlanders, nautely, that the world was turned upside down, and all the inhabitants drowned, with the exception of those .vho were transformed into spirits of iire. One man remained alive, who afterwards struck the ground with a stick, upon which a woman rose out of it, and they peopled the world anew. They also relate that farther up in the country, where no men have ever resided, remains of fishes, and whalebone are to be found on the top of a mountain, from which they justly draw the conclusion, that the earth has been covered with an inundation. Of the end of the world, and the resurrection of the dead, they have scarcely any idea. Some of them, however, afiirm that souls loiter near the graves of the bodies which they animated, for five days. The latter then rise again, and pursue the same course of life in another world, which they were accustomed to in Ibis. They therefore always lay the hunting implements of a deceased person near his grave. This childinh opinion is, however, ridiculed by more ob< servant Greenlanders, who perceive that the deceased and his weapons remain unmoved, and go into corruption toge- ther. The folio wingseems to bear more evident marks of a tra- dition relative to the resurrection, and is the more remarkable, as it involves belief in a superior Being. They say, that af- ter the death of the whole human race, the solid mass of the earth will be shattered into small fragments, which will be cleared by a mighty deluge from the blood of the dead : a P. V. 11. K K .:t^34^«*y\> h' 'uiiii 7 .' Aa*i-^iAiV;. if-fi--: - 2A0 parry's ibOond voyage .! I tempest will then unite the purified particlei, and gWe them a inord beautiful form, the new world will not be a wilder- ness of barren rocks, but a plain clothed with everlasting verdure, and covered with a superfluity of animals ; for they believe that all the present animal creation will be revivified. As for tlie naen, Pirksoma, i. e. He that is above, shall breathe upon them : but of this personage they can give no farther account. Besides the soul of man, the Greenlanders speak of other greater and lesser spirits, which hear some affinity to the gods and demi-gods of the ancients. Two are pre-eminent, a good and a bad divinity. The good is called Torngarsuk. He is the oracle of the Angekoks, on whose account they undertake so many journeys to his happy subterranean re- gions, in order to confer with him about diseases, and their cure, fishing, and the changes of the weather. Their ac- counts of his person differ very much. According to some he is of small stature. Some affirm that he resembles an im- mense white bear ; others a giant with one arm ; while others again contend that he is no bigger than a man's finger. He is, however, allowed by all to be immortal, but yet might 'benkilled, were any one to break wind in a house where witch- craft is carrying on. The other great but mischievous spirit, is a female with- out name: Whether she is Torngarsuk's wife or his mo- ther, is not agreed. The natives of the north believe, that she is the daughter of the mighty Angekok, who tore Disko island from the continent near Baal's River, and towed it an hundred miles farther north. This northern Proserpine lives under ihe ocean, in a large house, in which she en- thrals all (lie sea-monster; by the efficacy of her spells. Sea- fowls swim about in the tub of train under her lamp. The portals of her palace are guarded by rampant seals which are exceedingly vicious. Yet their place is often supplied by a large dog, which never sleeps longer than a second at a time, and can consequently rarely be surprized. When .'.t' TO THE NORTH POLB. aai (here isa •oorcity of genls and finheii, ao Angekok must un- dertake a journey to her abode for a handsome reward. His Torngak or fniniliar spirit, who has previously given him all nroper instructions, conducts him in the first place under the earth or sea. lie then passes through the kingdom of aouls, who spend a life of jollity and eaAe. Their progress is soon after intercepted by a frightful vacuity, over which a narrow wheel is suspended, and whirls round with won« (lerful rapidity. When he has been fortun&te in getting over, the Torngak leads him by the hand upon a rope stretched across the chasm, and through the sentry of seals, into the place of the fury. As soon as she espies her unwelcome guests, she trembles and founts with rage, and hastens to set on fire the wing of a sea-fowl, for the stench of this would enable her to take the suffocated Angekok and his Torngak captives. But these heroes seize her before she can effect the fatal fumigation, pull her down by the hair, and strip her of her filthy amulets, which by their occult powers en- slave the inhabitants of the ocean. The enchantment being dissolved, the captive creatures directly ascend to the sur- face of the sea, and ilic successful champion has no difficul- ties whatever on hisjourney back. They do not however think, that she is so malicious as to aim at making mankind eternally miserable, and therefore do not describe her dwelling as a hell, but a place abounding in the necessaries of life ; yet no one desires to be near her. On the contrary, they greatly venerate Torngarsuk ; and though they do not hold him to be the Author of the Universe, they wish after death to go to him and share in his affluence. Many Greenlanders, whea they hear of God and his Almighty power are easily led to identify him with Torngarsuk. The very etymology oi the word seems to denote that they at least formerly re- garded him as a Divinity. They call the soul of man Tarn- gek ; a spirit in general, Torngak ; a great spirit in their I language is Torngarsoak, vvhich is abbreviated into Torn- I garsuk. The Indians of America also generally deaominate K K S !li 'I I \liift (• I'l 'I tt •'§ 352 farht's eSCONU voyagu t il 'M I I mhi 'j '■ -I the Diviao Being, the Qreat Spirit, in contradistinction to the Manitu or lesser spirits, vrho inhabit all creatures, aiii- mate and inanimate. They honour Torngarsuk as much as ancient heathens did Jupiter, Pluto, or their other principal divinities, yet they do nut regard him as that Eternal Baing, to ^hom every tlung owes its existence. They pay him nu religious honours or worship, regarding him as much tou beneficeat a being to require any propitiations, bribes, or entreaties ; though it cannot well be construed into any thing but a sacrifice, when a Qreenlander lays a piece of blubber or skin near a large stone, very often part of the flesh of that rein-deer, which is the first fruits of the chase. They cannot assign any other reason for this proceeding, except that their ancestors have done so before them, in or- der to ensure success in hunting. ^ No one but an Angekok can obtain a sight of the greater spirits : but with the inferior sort, which inhabit all the ele- ments, most pretend to have some acquaintance. In the air dwells a certain Innua, (a possessor,) wliom they call Inuerterrirsok; the forewarner, because he inforim the Greenlanders, through the medium of an Angekok, from vhat they are to abstain, if they wish to be fortunate. Their £rloarsortok also inhabits the air, and lies in wait for those souls which pass upwards, in order tu take out their entrails and devour them. He is described to be as lean, gloomy, and cruel as a Saturn. The Kongeusetokit are marine spirits : they catch and devour the foxes, who fre- quent the strand in order to catch fish. There are also spi- rits of the fire called Ingnersoit, who inhabit the recks on the sea shore, and appear ia the form of the meteor, vul- garly called jack-with-a-lanthorn. They are said to have been the inhabitants of the world before the deluge. When the earth was turned round and immersed in water, they changed themselvea into flames, and took refuge among the I rocks. They frequently steal away men from the strand, in order to have companions, and treat them very kindly* n/ " y TO THE NORTH POLE. 253 The Tuiinersoit and Innuarolit are mountain spirits ; the former six ells, and the latter only six inches long, but ai (he same time exceedingly clever. These latter are said to have taught the Europeans their arts. The Erkiglitare warlike spirits, and cruel enemies of mankind ; but inhabit only the east-side of the cojuntry, and are perhaps meant to signify the remnant of the ancient Normans. Sillagiksartok is the ^olus of Greenland. He dwells upon an ice-field, and re- gulates the weather. The water has its peculiar spirits ; and when the Greenlanders meet with an unknown spring, in case there is no Angekok at hand, the oldest man in the company must first drink of it, in order to rid the water of any malicious spirits. When certain meats prove detrimen- tal io anyone, especially to women who are great with child, and have infants at their breasts, tlieNerrim Innuet, (mas- ters of diet), are blamed for enticing them to eat contrary to the rules of abstinence. Both the sun and moon are in- habited by their separate spirits who were formerly men; and the air itself is a spiritual intelligence which men may irritate by criminal conduct-, and apply to for counsel ; a notion which can surely not excite much surprise amongst those, who, according to the fashion of the day, are accustomed to call upon the heavens for their direction and blessing. If a -man of some genius would undertake to reduce the Greenlandic superstitions to a regular system, they might perhaps rival the mythology of the Greeks and Romans, in every thing but its obscenity. The Greenlanders also relate many stories of ghosts, and imagine that all monstrous births are changed into jugbears, which scare away the birds and seals. The Angekoks alone can see such a spirit or Anjiak and seize it in the air. When engaged in this kind of hunting, they must be blindfolded, and as soon as they have made themselves sure of their game, either tear it to pieees or devour it immediately. 'I'hat they also believe in apparitions of the dead, is plain from the following well autkeuticated relation. 354 PARftY'S SECOND VOYAGE •1^ , '& A boy while playing in a field at noon*day, was suddenly seized by his mother, who had been buried in the place, and addressed in words like these : *' Fear not ; I am tliy mo- ther, and love you much ; you will come to strange people, who will instruct you in the knowledge of him who created heaven and earth, &c." The story was related by the boy himself to a missionary after his baptism, and confirmed by many others. A Greenlander previous to assuming the office of Ange- kok, or diviner, must procure one of the spirits of the ele- ments for his Torngak or familiar. Marvellous tales, framed to support the belief of a real intercourse with spi- rits, are related of the manner in which this illapse takes place. The aspirant must retire for a time into a desert, cut off from the society of every human being, and spend his solitude in proFouiul meditation, or in invoking Torn- garsuk to send him a Torngnk. This separation from man- kind, his fasting and emaciation of body, together with the severe exercises of his mind, throw the imaginative faculty into disorder ; and various figures of men, beasts, and mons- ters, swim before his disturbed brain. He really supposes these to be real spiritual existences, since he thinks of no- thing else, and this throws his body into violent convulsions, which he labours to cherish and augment. Some who are destined to the art from infancy, distinguished by a parti- cular dress, and instructed by celebrated masters, find lit- tle difficulty in the initiation. Several however give out that they sit down on a large stone, invoke Torngarsuk, and t«ll him their desire. On his appearance the aspirant shrieks out and dies, tind lies dead for three whole days, at the end of which time he comes to life, and receives Torn- gak, who, on his desire, instils into him all power ^ind know- ledge, and conducts him on hia, journey to heaven and hell. This expedition can be made only in the end of the year. The way is shortest in winter when the nl^rhts are long and dark, and the rainbow, which is their first heaven, presents TO THE NORTH POI.E. ' ^, itselfin the ffrentM»«,« • -. and hi, spirite „„rke,l „p ,„ I" ' " '"'"' '' '^'""'W. «e» U> h«ad between W^e J .'d 7 ' °°! "' *" P"P"« back, all ,he la„„, „„ exT. i "''' ''^''^ k" ri'. nor u.o« a finger Jb ," r ' "'"' """ "^ 'P'" .Wd be disturbed: orlauTarLfrW"' ""^ '>"'" iccled. After begii,„i„. 7? " '^"'' "■""'"'» de. Sroaos, and puffs.TdfllTS "" "'"«'■ »" J™", he 'f «.e Tor„gak abso Jl ^^ 'T ' 7'"°" *° '»"»• «- -nl oftbe „r.ard J,l ^Zt^T "7^— > "b-noe he return, „i.b . ,„„, tlltlt """" " "'°" as a, e„,ible European wl.^l , '"'' """"Paoied. d-Iared, „i,b a rZlin! " ! 'u"'"'"''"-" P««nt, flying overthe roof,";" be„r"> "" "*» "' ""'I' "•■ '.owever, .be 'Wk coT"'*'"? ''°"" '■"''' '''« '■"•■»- without a, the e„,ra„cf„f,re. ' °""'^' ■■= «"™^» Sekok consult, bi„ on an/rbLT^ ""' '""'= "•« *- Greenlauderi wish for iofo^aZ 't™'"''""* "'"'='' ""« are distinctly heard, tbeone™ he ,7 •'"^"™' -™« other »i,hi„. The a„,„e" is" ; "V "' ""^ ''°°'». «■= The bearers unravel it ZnJaT t* ""' """"e"-. no. unanimous in their eZTtL^^T "'""'''' ''^^ "' Si« «,a,bor.U4;c::i::-A:^:^^^^^^^^^ ■ii, 5 1 ik ( ! S56 PARRY'8 sbgond tqyace 'IW^^^ A^: the fat or famous sages, and learns the fate of a sick patient, or even brings hitn back a new soul ; or else he wings bis way downwards to the Goddess of Hell, and liberates the animals detained by enchantment. But he soons returns, and baring found means to disengage himself from bis fet- ters, begins to howl and drum most hideously. He then relates all that be has seen and heard, though panting for breath, like one quite jaded with his excursions. Afterwards he strikes up a song, and going round the assembled circle, gives each hts touch or benediction. The lamps are now lighted, and the Angekok is seen with a pale bewildered look, and in a state of such exhaustion that he can scarcely articulate. It is not every probationer that succeeds in this art, and one who has drummed ten times in vain for bin Torngak must resign bis office. But the successful conjurer may, after a certaiu period, assume the dignity of Angekok Pog- lik. The candidate must lie in a dark house unbound, and after be has intimated his wishes by singing and dramming, if be is thought worthy by Torngarsuk, though few attain to this higli honour, a white bear comes and drags him away by the toe into the sea. There he is devoured by this bear and a walrus, who, however, soon vomit him up again into his own dark chamber, and his spirit re-ascends from the eartli, to animate the body. And now the mighty sorcerer is complete. The ooarse imposture of the whole process is palpably ma. nifest, and has, in many instances, been made apparent to the Greenlanders themselves. But though the majority of their An gekoks are doubtlessly mere jugglers, the class in- cludes a few persons of real talent and penetration, and per- haps a greater uumber of genuine phantasts, whose under- standing has been subverted by the influence of some im- pression strongly working on their fervid imagination. Those sensible individuals who are best entitled to the name of wise-men, or Angekoks, for the import of the word i-J 'l^. ■• ?ro THX NORTH POLE. 257 irt, and rorogak rer may, Lok Pog- und, and •nmroing, ew attain rags biw soured by it him up e-aecends he mig^itJf is f^etit and wise, have, either from the instructions of their fathers, or from their own observation and long experience, acquired a useful knowledge of nature, which enables them to give a pretty confident opinion, to such as consult them on the state of the weather, and the success of their fishery. Tiiey discover equal sagacity in their treatment of the sick, whose spirits they keep up by charms and amulets, while, as long as they have any hopes of recovery, they prescribe a judicious regimen. Their unblameaMe deportment and superior intelligence, have made them the oracles of their countrymen, and they may be deservedly considered as the physicians, philosophers, and moralists of Greenland. Persons of this class, when put to the question by Euro- ;)eans, avow the falsehood of their apparitions, .converse with spirits, and all the mummery connected with it ; but still they appeal to their ancient traditions for the truth of revelations made to their forefathers, and miraculous cures which they performed by a certain sympathy. With regard to their own practice, they readily admit that their inter- course with the spiritual world, is merely a pretence to deh. ceive the simple, and that their frightful gesticulate .)ns are uecessary to sustain their credit, and give weight to their prescriptions. ►atill there are many, ev-^n of those that have renounced these impostures along with heathenism, who aver that they have frequently been thrown into supernatural trances, and that in this state a succession of images appeared before them, which they took for revelations, but that afterwards, the whole scene appeared like a dream. A strong imagina- tion may easily produce a world of fanciful conceits. Many of the Greenlanders are strongly inclined to dream, and things which had never entered into their waking thoughts, are presented to them in sleep, with all the liveliness of real- ity. And who wHl say that the prince of darkness may not countenance these lying arts, to confer honour on his useful instruments, and assist them to delude a poor juc! ignorant P. V. il. L L i 1: ii » :ii II ; 258 parry's second voyage race } So much is certain that Angekoks who have laid aside their profession in the waters of baptism, while they acknowledg^ that the main part is a tissue of fraud and im< posture, are steadfast in asserting, that there is an inter, ference of some supernatural agency ; something which they now indeed abhor, but are unable to describe. The bulk of these diviners are, however, barefaced im- postors, who pretend to have the power of bringing on, and driving away diseases, enchailting arrows, exorcising spi. rits, bestowing blessings, and of performing a whrJe cata- logue of similar feats. The dread excited by iliese, ima- gined powers of good and evil, procures them a formidable name, and an ample reward for their services. These sor- cerers mutter a charm over a sick man, and blow upon him that he may recover ; or they ietch him a healthy soul, and breathe it into him ; or tiiey contine themselves to a simple prediction of life or death. For this purpose they tie a bandage round the head, by which they raise it up and , let it fall: if it feels light, the patient will recover ; if it is heavy, he will die. In the same manner they inquire the fate of a hunter who has stayed unusually long at sea : they bind the head of the nearest relation, andlift it up by astick; a tub of water is placed beneath, and there they behold the absentee either overturned in his kajak, or rowing on in his erect posture. They will also cite the soul of a man, whom they wish to injure, to appear before them in the dark, and wound it with a spear, upon which their enemy must consume away by a slow disease. The company present will pretend to reCk; ' lemselves most upon their power of duing mischief, are called Illiseetsok. Many old hags, who have no other chance of supporting them- selves, likewise carry on this profession. They are parti cularly skilful in sucking out of a swelled leg, lumps of hair, and scraps of leather, with which they have previously filled their mouths* W. TO THE NORTH POKE. 259 aced iin- r on, and sing spi. i:,)e cttla- ese, ima- ormidablc rhese 8or. upon him Ithy soul, elves to a ir()Ose they 36 it up and , ter; if it is inquire the tt sea ; they by a stick; behold the I g on in his of a man, [in the dark, snemy must iany present These bunglers have nearly brought the whole craft into disgrace, particularly since the missionaries have exposed so many glaring instances of fraud ; so that a Greenlander has sometimes been courageous enough to seize the Ange- kok during his journey to hell, and tl^row him out of the house. Yet since they have observed many cases in which the predictions of the genuine Angekoks have been verified, and that many patients, whose lives have been charmed, have recovered, as in case of a miscarriage, the blame is easily thrown upon the ambiguity of the oracle, or the mis- chievous interposition of one of the Iltiseetsok; and as these ]ast, when brought out to suffer death, staunchly refuse to betray their craft by a confession of deceit, dying like mar- tyrs for their occult art, the Angekoks have still so much in- fluence over Ihe greater part of their countrymen, that those who ridicule their juggling tricks, implicitly follow their whimsical prescriptions, thinking that if they are useless, they ^vill at least do no harm. The prescriptions of the Angekoks relate either to certain amulets, or to a course of diet, which includes the healthy as well as the sick. Women in child-bed have particularly much to observe. They dare not eat in the open air : no one else must drink at their water-tub, or light a match at their lamp, nor must they themselves boil any thing over it for a long time. Their meals must consist of what their own husbands have caught : the fish must be eaten before the meat, and the bones are not tu be thrown out of the house. The husband must abstain for several weel^s from all pur- suits except the necessary fishing. The ostensible reason of these restrictions is tu prevent the death of the child, though it is plain that they were originally invented for the conve> niencc and preservation of the feeble mother. Abstinence from food and labour' of certain kinds is Iike> wise enjoined to young maidens, who have the misfortune to I be soiled by the ordure of the sun or moon, or more pro- [pcrly speaking of a bird flying over-head. Those who neglect L 1 2 I 1 960 PABRY8 8BC0NU VOYAGE i ?: Ml these precautions are liable to some mischance, perhaps, even the loss of their honour or lives : besides, the Torn, gak of the air might be provoked on her account to raise stormy weatlier. The men never sell a seal on the day it Is caught, and they always keep back the head or some other part, if it be but a few bristles from the beard, lest they should forfeit their luck. ' Their amulets or pendants are so various that one con- jurer laughs at another's. They consist of an old piece of wood, a stone, a bone, or the beak and claws of a bird, hung round the neck, or a thong of leather tied round the forehead, breast, or arms. These potent charms are preservatives against spectres, diseases, and death ; they confer prosperity, and they es- peoially save children from losing theic souls in thunder •terms, or panic terrors. A rag or shoe of an European hung about their children, instils into them some portion of Eu- ropean skill and ability* Theyare particularly eager to get an European to blow upon them. When they set out on the whale-fishery, they must not only be neatly dressed, but the lamps in their tents must be extinguished, that the ■hy whale may not be frighted. The boat's prow must be adorned with afux's bead, and the harpoon With an eagle's beak. In the rein-deer cliase, they throw awa^' a piece of fleah fur the ravens. The heads of their seals must ^not be fractured nor thrown into the sea, but piled up before the door of the house, lest the souls of the seals should be in- censed and scare away the rest, or perhaps that their own vanity may be gratified by these trophies of their valour. The kajak is frequently adorned with a small model of a kajak, containing a miniature image of a man bearing a sword; sometimes with a dead sparrow or snipe, piece of wood, a stone, feathers, or hair, to ward off danger. But it is observed, that those who chiefly make use of these charms, are in general the most unfortunate, since they are either undkilful persons, and therefore timid, or so secure TO THB NORTH POLK. 261 in their superslition they tbey needlessly run into danger. A virtue is supposed to lay in fox's teeth which is powerful enough to extract all noxious humours. The Greenlanders likewise use pendants for mere oroa- ment ; and some tie strings round the arms or legs of their children, to ascertain ther growth. Greenland is well known as the most northern tract of land lying between Europe and America ; and considering its vast extent, compared with the small part as yet known to Europeans, maybejastly numbered among the unex- plored region^ of the north. Various navigators have coasted it from the most southern point, the promontory of Farewell, in lat. 50°, proceeding in a north-easterly direc- tion towards Spitzbergen, as far as 80° north latitude, and towards the north or north-west as far as lat. 78°. No ves- sel, however, has hitherto gained its northern extremity, so that it cannot be determined with any degree of certainty, whether it be an island or connected with some other conti- nent. That it is joined towards the cast to Spitzbergen, Nova Zembla, or the north of Tartary, was only a vague conjecture which has been exploded by the discoveries of the Dutch and Russians. Another supposition, that it ter- minates on the north-west in America, admits of being sup- ported by much more probable arguments. In the first place, Davis's Strait, or more properly Baffin's Bay, is known gradually to contract towards the north ; and the shore, though generally high where it borders on the open sea, flattens as we advance nearer the pole. Again, the tide, which, near Cape Farewell, or eveuCockin's Sound, lat. 65*, rises at new and full moon more than 18 feet, sel- dom exceeds two fathoms in the neighbourhood of Disko, and as we proceed still farther north, entirely disappears. To these i'easons may be added the testimony of the Green- Ibnders themselves, though not much to be relied upon. According to their accounts, the strait at last becomes so uarrow, that the natives of oue coast may be heard by their w ! M ■%■ :

verc it not for the rapi- dity of the current which sets in a southerly direction through the middle, they wouUi *;ven be able to visit each other. The name Greenland way first given to the --ast side by its discrverers, the Norwegians and icelander^j, on account of its uncommonly verdant ajijiearance. This side, gene- rally called ancient or Lost Greenland, is at present un- known ; since, owin^ tu (hj prodigious quantities of float- rig ice, none aro able to Pippronch it. The tales of Icelandic writers, who describe in glowing colours the fertility of ancient Greenland, with the beauty of its villages anl ch^ir'-lu^s, are generally considered to be completely chim^'rical. However, it] ought to be mentioned, that traces of a superior state of cultivation have been ob- served also on the west coast ; and remnants are still to be seen there of dwelling houses and churches, probably erected by the Norwegians ; so that in this respect it may have been no way inferior iu the more fatuous eastern side. West Creenland is inhabited by Europeans between the 02d and 71st degrees of north latitude, and has sometimes been erroneously termed by voyagers Davis's Strait, which again has not unfrequently been confounded with the whole arm of the sea separating Greenland from America. Davis's Strait, properly so called, is only that narrow channel, about 40 leagues broad, between the promontory of Wal- singham on James' island in North America, and South Bay in Greenland -, and extends ^roin kt. 11° as fur as Disko island. It is called after John Davis, an Englishman, who dis- covered it while endeavouring to find the north-west pas- sage, and has since that time been visited by various na- tions, on account of the whale-fishery ; especially by the Dutch and Engliah, who have furnished the best outlines of the coast. The shore, on this side, is high, rugged, and barren, nn. TO THE NORTH POF,E. 96a dis- las- na- the ines ren. riBitig close to the water's edge, into tremendous precipices and lofty mountains, crowned with inaccessible clitTs, which may be seen from the sea at the distance of a hundred miles. lu these respects, it bears some similarity to the coast of Norway, with this difference, that the Norwegian moun- tains are clothed with wood, and rise with a more gradual ascent. ,, All the Greenland hills, oxcept where the rocks are smooth and perpendicular, are covered vith eternal ice and snow, which accumulate particularly on elevated flats,entire1yfiling many valleys, nnd in all probability increasing from year to year. Those rocks on which they snow cannot lie appear at a distance of a dusky-grey colour, and without any signs of vegetation ; but upon nearer inspection they are found to be streaked with numerous veins of coloured stone, with here and there a little earth, which affurds a scanty nourishment to some hardy species of heath. The valleys^hich contain several small brooks and ponds, are overgrown with a sort of low brush-wood. The whole coas't is indented with a series of deep bays or fiordes, which penetrate a great way into the land, and are sprinkled with innumerable islands, of various dimensions, and the most fantastical shapes. Of so wild a country, only thinly inhabited on the coast, a long geographical description would be needless. It may, however, be proper to give a brief account of the principal places, as they lie in order along the shore, obtained chiefly from a merchant who resided a great number of years in the country.' ' The majority of the Greenland nation live between Staa- tenhuk and lat. 62** ; or, as the natives usually express it, in the south. In this part of Greenland no Europeans have settled, so that it is but very partially known. Further north the first place deserving notice is the colony of Fredericshaab, founded in the year 1742 by Jacob Seve- rin, a Danish merchant, upon a projecting point of land M ! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ .^Jk .'%' « 1.0 I.I 11.25 £ us 110 1.4 11.6 6" ^J>¥j^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) 872-4503 ? .*i ) thousands of Greeolaiidera iohabiteil the banks of this river; but since an attack of the smalUpox in 1733, they have de. creased so much, that very few natives are seen in the neigh* bourhood, besides those under the care of the missionaries, and roving families of Soulhlanders, who are fond of winter* ing in Kangek. A factor who resided many years in the country, and took pains to gather the most authentic information from the Greenlauders, made the following estimate of the population on the west coast. Within the compass of his trade, ex- tending eighty miles along the coast, about Ball's river, he computed only nine hundred and fifty- seven regular inha- bitants. Yet this part of the country is next in papulation to Disko Bay and the south coast. In sonae distriutsi a man may even travel forty miles without meeting a human being. Now computing the inhabited part of the shore to be eight hundred miles in length, and allowing one t^pus^qd souls to a tract of eighty miles, in consideration pf the su- perior populousness of the iiorth and soi^th parts of the coast to that from which the estimate is taken, it will giye a tptal often thousand inhabitants, fh^ above-mentioned. C<^.ctor, however, deducts three thousand from this amount, because so many tracta of land are absolutely desert. He asserts, that in the year 1730 the Greenland nation amounted to thirty thousand ; that in 1740, \vhen he made his first cal- culation, it could still reckon twenty thousand ; and t\\aS since that time it has suffered a diminution of two-tbir()s> o: at least one half of its numbers. The first station of Greenlanders fron^ Kangek noj-thwards, is Pissugbik, twenty miles distant. Eight miles further is a fishing bay, where the first missionary had thoughts of settling, induced by the fishery and Ihe quantity of grass. Twenty leagues from Godhaab lie the Napparsok islands. Here, and on the opposite continent, grass and drift wood are found in abundance. There is also great plenty of fish, birds, and seals. The ice fields, which float with th^ cur- M' TO THii NORTH POLE. 309 Eti-thwards, urther is oughts of of grass. L islands, rift i»|ood ty of ftsb, U th» cur- rent and a strong south wind round Staatenhuk from the east side, do not pass beyond this point, as. here the force of the stream subsides, and loses itself altogether still far- ther to the north. In 1756, the ship destined for Godhaab was forced to run in here, and wait till a north-east wind had cleared the shore of ice. At no great distance is Omenak, a Greenland station. The former inhabitants of this place were infamous for mur- der throughout the country. Forty leagues from Godhaab, lat. 6&° 46', is the fourth colony of Zukkerlop, (sugar-loaf,) situated on the small island of Kangek, in Bruyne Bay. It was founded in 1755 by order of the company of trade, by Anders Olsen, factor. It owes its appellation to three conical peaks, by which the seamen steer their course when entering the port. The harbour is very safe and commodious, lying between two little islands, a mile distant from the open sea. The coun- try is barren and dreary, and has no rein-deers. Whales, however, which are extremely rare in more southern parts, are not unfrequently seen in the bay. They make their ap- pearance in January and February, but they are seldom taken by the Greenlanders, and by the Europeans never, owing to the want of the necessary boats and tackle. The factor struck one once, and not having line enough, fastened to it some empty casks instead of bladders used by the Greenlanders, but the fish escaped. Coasting along by two fiordes, or bays, after a run of forty miles, is a large island. It lies low, with deep val- leys, and is frequented by salmon. There is founcl here a white shining clay, which does not burst in the fire. Amongst the rocks is one of particularly large size, with a deep valley in the middle, which is overflowed at high wa- ter. Here frequently more than a hundred seals enter with the tide in fair weather, and are caught and killed by the Greenlanders when the water retires. In kt. 67" lies Wyde-fiorde, and opposite to it the island I \ *'* -"Jo ''in. VK .■!! i J'' PI ! i 270 parry's 8B00ND VOYAGE of Nepiset or Nepisene. Upon tliis island a lodge was built in the year 1724, for the advantage of trade and whale fish, ing ; but it was forsaken the year after, and all the houses were burnt by the crews of foreign vessels. In the year 1729, a colony was established in the same place with a fort adjoining, which were also abandoned and demolished a short time after, by order of the king. Not far from hence, and about twenty-six leagues north of the Sugar-loaf, lies the Amarlok-fiorde, where the Green- landers catch every year a number of whales. Here also they founded the fifth colony, called Holstcinburg, in me- mory of the Duke ofHolstein, member of the privy-council, and president of tlic honourable missionary society, The spot on which this colony is built, is one of the roost eligi- ble, both as an agreeable residence and convenient trading- place. Eight leagues from Holsteinburg, and in lat. 67° 30', lies the well-known South-bay, the best harbour belonging to the whalers, and a suitable place of rendezvous when the fishing season is over. A colony was founded here in 1730, but since the settling of Holsteinburg, only one man resides on the premises, who buys in the blubber from the few Greenlanders in the neighbourhood. The whale fishery is often very productive near the two factories ; but most of the Greenlanders have withdrawn from their vicinity, although it is rich in all kinds of birds and fishes. In the neighbourhood of the last mentioned place, the sea is frozen throughout the winter, and not clear from ice till May, when the season for catching whales is past. Next in order come Riffkol and North-bay, beyond which, the sea penetrates into the land in a soutli-easterly direction, and forms the well-known Disko-bay filled with groups of small islands, of which the most considerable are, the West, Whale, Green, Dog, and Dunk islands, extending partly towards the east into Spiring -bay, and partly to the nortlvg TO THE NORTH POLE. 871 as far as Disko island. The entire circuit of the bty is about one hundred and twenty leagues. The land round about it is hig^h, flat on the top, and covered with ice ; though the shore along the roads is smooth and level. There is a place in the neighbourhood called Schans, wliicb, accord- ing to the Dutch charts, contains a vein of good stone-coal, tliough it has hitherto never been worked. It is remarka- ble, that Disko island is frequented by rein-deer, which is tbe case with no other. The channel which separates it from the main land is called Waygat, and is about four leagues ill breadth. The fishery in the bay is the most productive of any in the whole country ; as in winter, when it is frozen, the Greenlanders kill vast numbers of seals upon the ice, and in spring, frequently catch small and even full-grown whales in it. It is also the yearly resort of many Dutch whalers. The population of Disko-bay is more numerous than that of any ether tract in Greenland, except perhaps the most southern part, where there are no colonies. Trade conse- quently flourishes most in its vicinity. The eighth colony, Christianshanb, was settled in 1734, by order of ^r. Jacob Severin, in Viire-bay, lat. 6d° 30', or, according to others, 68° S4'. Three leagues farther to the north lies Ice-.'iorde, which the Greenlanders report to have been an open sound, pene- trating as far as the east-side-; but it is at present entirely blocked up with ice. Numerous ice-mountains of the larg- est size are yearly driven out of this bay. From Jacobshaven, ships sail for fourteen leagues, first to the north, and then westward, before they arrive at the mouth of Dieko-bay, passing in their course another colony, Rittenbenk, founded in 1755, by Charles Daluger. In its vicinity, a white close-grained species of whet-stone is found, called oil-stone. The nxet and last colony, called Noogsoak, or the Great Ness, was built in the year 1755, at the extremity of the m I fl V 979 PARRY'0 SCOOTTD VOYAGB ~t\ ;]i--< Wayfftt, lat. 71*. A ship touehM every year at both these plaees; but their exports have hitherto been but small. Measure! have since been taken to remove it some leagues ferther north, to Jacob's creek, where many Green< landers reside. There is no roiasionnry in either of them. Concerning the face of the country, still farther north, all kno'raedge is confined*. William Baffin, who sailed in the year 1916, i«ith Captain Robert Bylot, in search of a pas- sage through Davis** Straits, and who has given his name to all that part of the sea, between lat. 72° and 78°, aifirjns, that he traded with the Greenlanders as far north as Horn- sound, in lat 73°. Even in lat. 74°, he was led to conclude, that the Greenlanders had a summer residence, from the traces of tents visible in many places along the coast. The sea was found to contain abundance of seals and seti-uni- corns, and in Thomas Smith's Sound, lat. 78°, whales of the largest size were observed. The Disko Greenlanders say, that the land extends for more than 130 leagues north of ttieir residence, and consequently a» far as lat. 70° ; but it is very thinly inhabited, though it abounds in eider-fowl, white bears, and seals; no one being desirous of living in a place where the wintbr night is so long and cold. There is also a scarcity of wood and iron, which the more southern Greenlanders receive in exchange for the horns of sea-uni- corns. The face of the country presents nothing but naked rocks covered with ice, so that the natives are forced to buy even the grass which they use in their shoes. Their houses (instead of the wooden rafters and sods) are roofed with the horns of the sea unicorn, clay, and seaUskins. The land stretches in a north-westerly direction, towards America, and is bordered with numerous clusters of small island!^. H&re and there, upright stones with projecting arms are said to be found, which look like our road-guides. Fear has also coloured them white, and given rise to the fa- ble of the gigantic Kablunak (European)^ standing on a mountain, to whom passengers offer up a piece of whalebone. TO TUB NORTH POLK. 378 ' Tlie southern part of Greenlaiul, wliicli is likewise unin> habited by Europeans, is better known tlian the extreme north. In the autumn of 1723, Mr. Egede undertook a voyage of Discovery thither. In the years 1740 and 52, a traveller in the pay of the Greenland company, went on se- veral trading expeditions ; during the last of which he spent two summers and one winter in the south. Very little is known concerning the particulars of his journey, and the ac- count must depend upon the relations of the GreenUnders living in those parts, a number of whom pay a yearly vi- sit to the north. The Greenland hills are generally so lofty that the snow on their summits seldom thaws, and what melts in the day. time is congealed during the night. They also abound io d?ep chasms, into which the sun>beams seldom or never en- ter. Besides, even in the most precipitous mountains there are occasional flats and hollows, in which the rain and snow- water collects, and is frozen into ice. When the snow rolls down in heaps, or, after having been dissolved by the sun, descends in rivivlets and torrents upon the ice already formed in these hollows, the latter gradually accumulates into a solid lump, upon which the action of the sun can make but a very partial impression ; and the decrease occasioned by thaw is amply made up by continual accessions from the snow and rain. These huge lumps of ice sometimes project a considera- ble way over the edge of the rocks, and do not melt so much on the surface as underneath, bursting in cracks of various dimensions, out of which the water continually oozes. Be* ing in this way gradually undermined to such a degree as to lose their equilibrium, they break loose from the rocks \fith a tremendous crash, and falling in enormous fragments over the edge of the precipice, plunge into the depth below, with a noise like thunder, and a commotion of the water sufficient to overset a boat at a good distance from the shore. Many a poor Greenlander sailing unconcernedly in his kajikk P. V. 12. N n ■ ' 1: *; 1*^ -k li T' t V 974 HAKRY'ii SBCOND VOYAOK r I oIoitK tlio const, lins luat Iiih lir« by their full. These masses of Ice sometiiuis remain fixed in the chasms of th« rocks, or frozen fast in the buys, for u number of years to- gether, and arc continually increased by the snow-water, (which being sometimes mixed with earth and stones,) their prodigious magnitude cannot be wondered «t. Those who have seen the glaciers of Switzerland, or the Tyrol, or even read descriptions of them, will not be at a loss to conceive how such immense pieces of ice may be loosened from the cavities in which they are formed. The chosms in them nro occasioned by the ice thawing under- neath and freezing again during the winter. A large quan- tity of air is consequently enclosed, which when expanded by the Ueats of tho summer, bursts the exterior covering, with a terrible explosion, and a concussion aptly denominated an ice-quake, so vehement that casual passengers are forced to sit down in order not to be thrown off their legs. On such occasions, not only earth, wood, and stones, but even the bodies of men and animals which had been embosomed in the ice, are vomited forth, and large masses roll down into the valleys beneath, iVequently covering whole mea- dows. Some conception may be formed of the size of these maii- ses from the description of the Rheinwald glacier, which at the same time illustrates the nature of the Ice-blink. This glacier is said to be four milei long and two broad, and be- tween several hundred and a thousand fathoms in height. It consists entirely of masses of pure ice, precipitated from the mountains, and ranged side by side in perpendicu- lar columns. Towards the western extremity issues a tur- bid streiim, which soon disappears again under the ice. On the east side, a magnificent cavern opens far into the gla- cier. The neighbouring villagers say, that four miles from its mouth it is still high enough to admit of a man's stand- ing upright in it. A rivulet of crystal water discharges it- self through this channel. TO TIIK NORTH POLE. 375 r covering, snominateil B are forced rlegs. Oi\ 59, but even einbosoDQed ;g roll down whole inea- If Kuob atupendouR masses nrc precipilntcd from (he hills of Switzerland, it is littlo wonder that tlic arctic seas of (Greenland should be crowded with huge r.iountuins of-flout- ing ice. Tlie highest summits of the Cordilleras, which lie directly under the Equator, are covered with perpetual ice and snow. It hos howcrver been too hastily concluded, that the line of congelation, which in hot climates is thirteen thousand three hundred and eighty feet above the level of the sea, gradually lowers itself towards the poles, till within tbo polar circle, it coincides with the surface of the earth. Ocu- lar demonstration disproves this. Grcenlanders inhabit as far north as 75°, and Europeans have settlements in lat. 71". On the highest Greenland mountains, which though not as high as Chimbora9o, have yet an elevation of at least six thousand feet, rain is more frequent than snow d if ring the summer months, and even the snow which descends ig quickly melted. The soils of this country afford little scope for description. They are in general extremely scanty and shallow. The country round Godhaab principally consists of clay, sand, or turf. The clay is pale blue, and very sandy and steril«. In other tracts a light grey marl prevails, which is inter- mixed with mica, and stands the fire. There is also found a very fine and light micaceous sand, greasy to the touch, and a fine white pearl sand filled with black and red crys- tals of garnet, and uncommonly hard. Most of the sand in the country is grey or brown and full of stones : when ma- nured, it will support vegetation. Turf is fuund in all the marshes, mixed with black mould, sand, and gravel, and is not good for firing. The proper turf is an aggregate of vegetable matter, as routs, withered mosses, grass, putrid wood, and also bones ; and is found in low lands, on a bed of sand or on the solid rock. A kind of shell fish aire sprinkled amongst its layers, not met with any where else in the country, deposited probably by some former inundation of the sea. This turf-ground probably N n S V if ' ;:•! :\ & ,..'r • |( 276 PARRYS SECOND VOYAGE owes its fbrmation to light earth and grass waslied off* by the rain from the adjacent mountains. The best sort grows on the highest ridges of the little desert islands and bare cliifs. where a multitude of birds make their roost in tlie night and deposit their eggs. Their ordure mixed with earth blown thither by the wind furnishes a soil for moss and grass, wlticli augmented by featliers, muscles, and bones, easily dis- cernablein the mass, form a tenacious covering of turf, two or three feet thick. This overspreads the summits of the rocks, and has buried a stone beacon erected by the sailors of former times. It is called kupp-turf. Owing to die tough roots it contains, it is difficult to cut through it, but it burns with a bright flame, and gives out a considerable heat. Grass is found not only on boggy, sandy, or turf land, where it is commonly very poor and diminutive, but also in clefts of rocks filled with earth, and particularly near hu- man habitations, where it grows very luxuriantly. One spe- cies, (Agrostis arundinacea,) much resembles the reed, but has a more slender stalk, and the Greenlanders twist very neat baskets of it. Another kind, less common, (Elymus arenarius,) grows near buildings, on a bottom of sand and gravel, and between stones, with long broad leaves, and a stalk upwards of a yard long. Its spike resembles that of wheat, and is often six inches in length. The grains are like oats, but owing to the shortness of the summer, they seldom come to maturity. The Greenlanders make use of this grass to line their shoes and boots. Several trials have been made to grow oats and barley. They send up as high a blade as in other countries, but sel- dom come into ear, and are in the very warmest situationti prevented from ripening by the night frosts. The gardens cannot be very productive, as no seed can be sown till the middle of June. Even then the soil is fro- aen at a little depth below tlie surface, and in September (he frost recommences. Every thins must then be token lliH TO THE NORTH POLE. air out of tlie earth, aud laid up to keep, except chives, nvhich will endure the winter. Salad and cabbage will not bear transplanting, and remain very small. Radishes thrive as well as in Europe. Theblack^radishes are small, and tur> nips seldom exceed a pigeon's egg in size, but they may be eaten with greens, and have an excellent taste. This is all that can be reared in the gardens, nor will they produce even this, unless they are screened from the north wind and the spray of the sea water. The most plentiful production of this country is moss, which grows in great plenty, and of many different kinds. One species (the Sphagnum or bog-moss,) is like a thick soft fur or fleece ; the Greenlanders stop up the chinks of their houses with it, and use it as Europeans do waste pa- per. Another kind has filaments a span long, which ad- here together like some sorts of fungi. This serves them for tinder, and a wick to their lamps. There are several varieties of low under- wood, where the rein-deer find pasture, and which the natives use for kind- ling fires. The Azalea is a beautiful creeping shrub with a profusion of red flowers. Several berry-bearing shrubs also occur, as the bilberry and cranberry. The crow or crake-berry, (Empetrum nigrum,) is a low earth-like plant, with small oblong leaves, and flesh-coloured flowers which produce black juiey berries, not ungrateful to the palate. It grows here in abundance. Another plant, the Andromeda, and much resembling this, bears violet ^bell-shaped flowers without berries. The cloud-berry, (Rubus Chamcsmo- rus,) never comes to maturity. . The leaf and fruit is much like the mulberry, only the berry is yellow. The stalk is a finger's length, and the flower has four white pe- tals. This plant grows only in northern climates, and its berries are packed up in small vessels for exportation. They are a great delicacy, and an excellent remedy for the scurvy. The Greenlanders eagerly collect all these fruits, parti- cularly the orake-berries, which keep throqgh. the winter 'J, . I M 278 parry's second voyage' 'f?: • ( 'i ■\ :( under the nnovr. Tliey do not however set any value upon the juniper-berry, which grows here far larger than in Eu- rope, though the bush itself trails on the earth. Besides the shrubs already mentioned, several species of Willows find a nourishment, but are obliged by the cold to creep like broom along the ground. Nor do the birches, which are of a dwarf kind with small indented leaves, mount any higher. But in the fiordes, where warmth is stronger and more last- ing, these trees and the elders which overhang the brooks, grow to the height of a man, and have a stem thiree inches thick. Their crookedness, however, which makes it impos- sible to bind them in faggots-for loading, and the nature of the wood itself, being unadapted for combustion, render it, notwithstanding its abundance, of little service for fire-wood, and recourse must be had to turf, drift-wood, or coal im- ported from other countries. Very few of the productions of the sea have come under human observation, but why may they not be as numerous as those of the land, and as useful, if our knowledge of them were less limited ? It is long since the observation was first made, that the depths of ocean are as diversified as the upper land ; that there also nature sports in an interchange of hill and valley and wide extended champaign. Islands and diifs are but the emerging summits of mountains whose bases dive towards the central recesses of the earth. The higher and steepei- the shore of any continent is, the dee|)er is the sea which washes it. The plummit which at one time brines up mud and slime, at another different kinds of sand, is a plain indication that the bottom of the sea is also com- posed of a variety of soils. Is there not then a high proba- bility that those secret depths are the receptacle, not only of grass and sea-weed, such as is sometimes rent by a tem- pest from its native rock and cast upon the strand, but of large trees, like those in which the lines of fishermen are of- ten entangled, and bring up with them broken branches that have hitherto served only to grace the cabinets of naturalists. ffl V "a TO THE NORTH POLE. 279 but are doubtless intended to answer some purpose of higher utility ? Probably tbcy are the food of innumerable sea- monsters, which seldom or never make their appearance on the surface. The smallest and most tender sea-weeds, which grow near the strand, are filled with a number of an i- inalculse which have eaten through them, and the larger species, which are ejected from a considerable depth in the sea, are bitten and bored through in various ways. Having given a general account of the manners and cha- racter of the inhabitants of these northern climes, it will be proper to return to the history of the progress of the Fury and Hecla. " At daylight on the 1st of September, says Captain Parry, we found ourselves within three or four hundred yards of the rocks on the eastern side of Winter Island, the sound- ings having gradually decreased to eleven fathoms. Had it remained dark an hour longer the Fury would in all pro- bability have gone on shore ; but happily the ice was slack enough to allow us to warp clear of danger soon after day- break. The Plecla had in the mean time been drifted round Cape Fisher, and several miles to the westward towards Lyon Inlet, in which directioii the Fury was also carried in the afternoon. The wind now setting in easterly, both ships drove with the ice up the inlet, and on the 4th were abreast of Safety Cove, though fortunately on the western side, clear of the dangers of the Bay of Shoals. A light breeze then springing up from the north-west, we again began to move down the inlet ; and on the evening of the 6th, after making a little progress with the sails in the course of the last two days, were once more met by an easterly breeze oft' Cape Edwards, the ice being still as closely packed as pos- sible. The young ice also began at times to annoy us, by forming to a considerable thickness at night, so as to ce- ment the larger masses strongly together. The weather now became chilly immediately after sunset, and we consi- dered it rather a premature decrease of temperature in this n'rl'* 1 «, r- !■ ' k i sac parry's SECONn VOYAGE mil ' ■•' latitude, when the thermometer iras observed to fall to 34" on the morning^ of the 31st of August. A very unusual depo- sition of dew took place every evening about this season, immediately after the sun had set, and was in an hour or two converted into hoar frost. " In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at be- ing informed by telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife> Greenland Master of that ship, had.just expired, an event which fur some days past there had been but too much rea. son to apprehend ; the scurvy having within the last three weeks continued to increase considerably upon him. It is proper for me, however, both in justice to the medical of- ficers under whose skilful and humane care he was placed, and to the-means with which we were in this way so libe- rally supplied, to state that during a part of that time Mr. Fife had taken so great a dislike to the various anti-scor- butics which were administered to him, that he could seldom be induced to use any of them. The disease, in conse- quence, reduced him to a state of extreme debility, which at length carried him off almost without pain. The Hecla being at the time closely beset, and in a situation of great danger among the shoals off Winter Inland, Captain Lyon caused the remains of the deceased to be committed to the sea with all the solemnity which circumstances would per- mit. 1 cannot close this melancholy notice without expres- sing my most sincere regret, to which I may venture to add that of Captain Lyon and the other officers, for the loss of this very deserving individual, whose qualities as a seaman and navigator, had it pleased God to spare bis life, would have rendered him an ornament to the naval service, into which he was to have been admitted as a Master on the re- turn of the ships to England. Mr. Crawford, the mate of the Fury, was appointed, for the present, to act as Mas- ter of the Hecla in the room of Mr. Fife. " In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly cksed each other, were again separated to the dis- TO THE NORTH POLE. 281 taace of leverftl milei, though no motion was percepliblo in tb« masses of ice about them. The Hecia was now car- ried towards Winter Island, and the Fury up Lyon Inlet, 80 that on the 10th we had reached the islands off Five- hawser Bay within three-quartera of a mile, where thellecla was barely visible from the mast head. On the evening of the lltb, however, the wind at length began to freshen from the north-west, when the ice almost immediately com- ~ mencsd driving down tlie inlet at the rate of a mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it and within half a mile of the rocks, the whole way down to <^r\pe Martineau, but keeping her in deep water, la the mean time the Heola had be9n swept into much more dangerous situations, passing along/the east and south sides of Winter Island ; and after driving nearly up to Five-hawser Bay, being carried near some danger- ous shoals about Cape Edwards, where Captain Lyon ex- poeted every other tide that she would take the ground. Indeed for the last ten or twelve days the situation of tlie ttccla had been one of imminent danger, and every exertion to remove her from it had proved unavailing. From this Ume, however, the ioe continued to drive to the southward, and, by some means or other, the ships once more closed each other. It was now observable, as on a former oc« casion in this neighbourhood, that the ioe did not carry the ships in the direction opposite to the wind, but much more towards Southampton Island ; so that on the 14th we were oDce more oflf Fife Rock, and had, by great exertions in warp- ing, nearly rejoined the Hecla. We now also observed a dark water-sky to the eastward, which assured us that a cUar sea could be at no great distance in that direction. On the following day, when the ships had dosed each other within a mile, we could see the clear water from the mast^ bead, and the Hecla could now have been easily extricated. Such however are the sudden changes that take place in this precarious navigation, that not long afterwards the Fury was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the P. V. 12. O o i II m •! ■ ! If 1 1 '.p ' i < S83 parry's second voyage Ml -M ^■ih k i Heola was now, in her turn, so immoveably set fast, and even cemented between several very heavy masses, that no puwer that could be applied was sufficient to move her an inch. In this situation she remained all the 16th, without our being able to afford her any assistance ; and the frost being now rather severe at night, we began to consider it not improbable that we might yet be detained for another winter. We were perhaps indeed indebted for our escape to a strong westerly breeze which blew for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice being sufficiently dose to allow our men to walk to the assistance of the Hecla, we suc- ceeded, after seven hours' hard labour, in forcing her into clear water, when all sail was made to the eastward, and our course shaped for the Trinity Islands in a perfectly open sea. " We thus finally made our escape from the ice after haT< tng been almost immoveably beset in it for twenty«four days out of the last twenty-six, in the course of which time the ships had been taken over no less than one hundred and forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the shore, and always unable to do any thing towards effecting their escape from danger. When it is considered that, to have taken ground in this situation, with strong and high tides keeping the ice in constant motion, must have almost in- volved the certain loss of the ships, and without the possi- bility of one offering assistance to the other, we cannot but consider this as one of the most providential escapes it has ever been our lot to experience." Captain Lyon, speaking of the Esquimaux says, " the Es- quimaux whom he hatl seen at Winter Island and Igloolik, comprised nearly ail the. inhabitants of the north-east coast of America, from the Wager River to our second winter quarters, and as they were all related by blood or marriage, I may speak of them as one tribe. They may more proper- ly be termed a small than even a middle-sized race. For though in some few insfanbcs, and in particular families, the ; : 1: TO THB. NORTH POLE. 283 men are tall and stout, yet the greater portion of the tribe are beneath the standard of what in Europe would be called small men. The tallest I saw was five feet nine inches and Vee quarters in height ; the shortest only four feet ten inches ; and the highest woman was five feet six inches, while the smallest was four feet eight inches only ; between these, of course, there were internaediate sizes, all, however, in- cliniDg to the lowest scale. Even in the young and strong men the muscles are not clearly defined, but are smoothly covered, as in the limbs of women ; and though when dressed they appear stout well-set people, yet, takiugthem in a body» their figures when uncovered are rather weak than other- wise. There is a remarkable contradiction in the form of the most robust, which is, that however prominent and well shaped the chest may be, the neck is small, weak, and of- ten shrivelled. They all stand well on their feet, walking erect and freely, with the toes rather turned inwards, and the legs slightly bowed. Their bodily strength is not so great as might be expected in people who, from their in- fancy, are brought up in hardy living and labour. Of this I had sufficient proofs by matching our people with Esqui- maux of equal sizes to lift weights, and it invariably hap- pened that burthens, which were raised with facility by our people, could scarcely be lifted by the natives. They are active wrestlers among themselves, but can neither run nor jump. Hardy and patient of fatigue, ybt, for persons brought up ia so severe a climate, they bear the cold with less indifference than I should have expected. Few amongst them are in the slightest degree inclined to corpulency, al- though pot-bellies are universal. The females have a ten- dency, perhaps from their scdeutary habits, to grow fat. Their plumpness, however, does not seem wholesome, but more properly may be called bloated, and that only on par- ticular parts of the body. "The neck and shoulders of the young women are gene- rally in good, though large, proportion ; and the am and Oo2 v^ i; •Hit f 1'. ^:~.^, i. 384 parry's tRCOND VOYAOB I ;■ I ' ' : i I. i •: ,1 beoame I before the few These id were moanio loven in wer edge sroaa the muak- me small terials as different the skin, or Uil ia all flap in h. The M cover* oradle for • 18 called X. In or- r ^e dress , measure affixed to I the oo-ta, crosses, and being brought under the arms, is secured on each side the breast by a wooden button. The shoulders of tlie women's cout have a wide bag-like Hpace, for which wc were long unable to account i but it was at length ascertained to be for the purpose of facilitating the removal of the child from the hood round the breast without taking it out of the jacket. " When a girdle is worn round the waist, it answers the double purpose of cortifort and ornament ; being frequently composed of some vuluable trinkets, such as foxes' bones, those of the kableeaghioo, or sometimes of the ears of deer, ffhich hang in pahrs to the number of twenty or thirty, and are trophies of the skill of the hunter, to whom the wearer is allied. The inexpressibles of the women are of the same form as those of the men, but they are not ornamented by the same curious arrangement of colours ; the front part is generally of white, aud the back of tlark fur. The man- ner of securing them at the waist is also the same ; but the drawing-strings are of much greater length, being suf- fered to hang down by one side, and their ends are fre> quently ornamented with some pendant jewel, such as a grinder or two of the musk-ox, a piece of carved ivory, a small ball of wood, or a perforated stene. "Children have no kind of clothing, but lie naked in their mother's hoods until two or three years of age, when they are stuffed into a little dress, generally of fawn-skin, which has jacket and breeches in one, the back part being open ; into this they are pushed, when a string or two closes all up again. A cap forms an indispensable part of the equip- ment, and is generally of some fantastical shape : the skin of a fawn's head is a favourite material in the composition, and is sometimes seen with the ears perfect ; the nose and holes for the eyes lying along the crown of the wearer's head, which, in consequence, looks like that of an animal. Although by necessity and habit an extremely dirty people, the Esquimaux appear fully aware of the truth of a well- known saying, and practically show that " a stitch in time", P. V. 13. P P 290 PARU\ S SECOND VOYAGF. fm t\ I does wonders ; for, however old or worn tlieir dresses may be, it is rarely that ragged clothes are seen. Our woollen jackets, shirts, or stockings, were \ery much esteeme fident hope that if a ship could once be got upon (hat coast, she might, by patience and perseverance, ultimately complete the desired object. It becomes, therefore, a matter of more interest than ever, to inquire by what route a ship is most likely to reach that part of the coast lately discovered and surveyed by Captain Franklin. *' It is more than probable, that the obstacles which finally arrested our progress in the Strait are to be mainly attributed to the current we found setting to the eastward, through it ; and which coincides with that observed by Captain Franklin and by tlie Russians to the westward. This stream, in finding its way out through the Strait, would undoubtedly have the eifect of keeping the ice close home U|Ton its western mouth, no as to prevent the egress of a ship in that direction ; and I cannot help thinking that, on this account, the navigation of that Strait will seldom if ever be practicable." The information which (he second voyage of Captain Parry produced, although unsuccessful in accomplishing the great object in pursuit, induced the Government to make further attempts ; and accordingly in the succeeding spring vessels were again fitted out, of which the following are the particulars. Mil TO THE NORTH POLE. 393 CAPTAIN PARRY'S THIRD VOYAGE. THE Fury and Hecia, which had been paid oiT in No- vember 1823, were re-commissioned, and to them was added the Griper, to be commanded by Captain Lyon, which last, however, was to take a different route, but to co-ope- rate with Captain Parry by land, each taking a course which former lights and experience pointed out as most likely to ensure success. It was intended that Captain Parry should endeavour to make the passage by the Prince Regent's In- let, which runs out of Lancaster Sound to the southward, towards Hudson's Bay, and which was discovered by him in his second voyage ; Captain Lyon was to land in Re- pulse Bay, leaving charge of the Griper to Lieutenant G. Dixon, and to proceed over-land to the Copper -mine river ; whilst Captain Franklin was to explore by land the coast of the Arctic Sea from Mackenzie's River to Icy Cape. Every advantage was taken of the experience obtained '\i\ the former voyages, and nothing was omitted which could add to the comfort or secure the safety of the crews in their perilous undertaking. Considerable improvements have taken place in the mode of warming the vessels in their seve- ral departments ; and increased strength has been given to their bows by an additional casing of timber. Capstans upon a new construction have also been introduced, which promise less risk of injury than those formerly in use. The sails and cordage were all new, and of superior workman- ship ; while the stores of every description are abundant and applicable to every casualty that can occur. Modern publications were added to the libraries, and nothing was 294 parry's voyages li, ! '' •^ » V "'*t^*. .i: neglected which might aiford amusement or information to the officers. A very splendid and hospitable entertainment was given on board the Fury and lleela, lying off Deptforddoclc-yarcl, by Captain Parry, on Tuesday, the 4th of May. The most distinguished of the company present on this occasion were the Duke of Marlborough, Earl Bathurst, Lady Georgiana Bathurst, Lady Emily Bathurst, Lord and Lady Sidmouth, Lord Nugent, Lord Clinton, Sir Everard Home, the Lord Mayor and family, the Right Hon. W. W. Wynn and fa- mily, Mr. and Mrs. Hobhouse, Sir J. Yorke ; Sir Henry, Lady, and Miss Martin ; Captain J. Franklin, the Hon. Douglas Kinnnird, S. Whitbread, Esq. Sir Alexander and Lady Johnston, Mrs. Admiral Hamilton, Captain and Mrs. Napier, Lieutenant Colonel Ady, Captain and Mrs. Wilbraham, Mr. Alderman Heygate and Lady ; and a long list of ethers, too numerous to mention. The Hecla and Fury dropped down the river from Dept- ford on Saturday the 8tli of May 182i. The crew of the Griper gave three cheers as she passed, which was answered by the Hecla's crew. This incideiit was interesting, inas- much as, the Griper being to take out the land expedition, the next intercourse of those brave men was expected to be in the regions of desolation and cheerless misery. Captain Parry proceeded on his voyage ; and of him we have heard nothing positive since, and doubt not but he found winter-quarters. Suddenly, however, and unexpect- edly, on the 10th of November 1824, the Griper, Captain Lyon, ran into Portsmouth-harbour, (without anchoring at Spithcad,) with signal of distress flyinj^, having narrowly escaped destruction in fruitleis endeavours to get in to Repulse- Bay. The ship ajjpears to have sulFered dreadfully. She had reached to within six hours sail of Repulse-Bay, when a most tremendous gale cume on, hitherto unequalled for severity in those seas, which continued for several days with unabated fury ; and, after the crew had sufllcrcd in a dread- him we but he inexpect- Captain ioring at narrowly Ue\mlsf- Uy. She ay, when railed for days with \ a dread- TO THE NORTH POLE. 205 I'ul rounner, Captain Lyon was obliged to bear up for Eog- ]und to refit, the ship having lost all her anchors and ca- hies amongst the ice, besides having been on shore and sus- tained damage in her bottom ; her boats were all stove in. We are happy to learn, however, that no lives were lost. Captain Lyon, the moment he.'arrived in London, began to prepare a " Brief Narrative of an unsucessful attempt, &c." and within a very few weeks it was published. The enterprising individuals whose arduous exertions and in- tense sufferings are recorded in this interesting volume, have the most powerful claims on the gratitude of their country- men ; and, though they have been unsuccessful in the prin- cipal object of the expedition, the skill and intrepidity of the gallant commander and his crew are not the less deserv- ing of admiration. In a short preface. Captain Lyon de- tails the object of the voyage, by stating the general belief, ** that a western portion of the Polar Sea lies at no great distance across Melville Peninsula from Repulse-Bay, and that all the Esquimaux agree in placing it at three days journey. Should this be the case, of which no doubt seems to be entertained, the water in question may be inferred to join that sea, which opens out from the western mouth of the Strait of the Fury and Ilecla, and the form of the pen- insula may be tolerably imagined from the charts drawn by the natives. A bight may therefore exist as far to the soutlnvard as Akkoolee, which is the opposite shore from Repulse-Bay ; and it certainly would be an object of great interest to trace the connexion of its shores with Point Turn- again, at which Captain Franklin's operations terminated." Under this supposition. Captain Lyon was directed to win- ter in Repulse-Bay; and in the spring of 18-23 to proceed with a small party across Melville Peninsula, and endeavour to trace the shores of the Polar Sea as far as the above men- tioned Point. The Griper, of 180 tons, and a crew of forty-one men, feft Deptford on the 10th of June, 1824, and joined her pro- 1 iijti lit m^ t' lii fv '■ 296 parry's voyages ^' If' vision-vessel, the Snap, at tlie Little Nofe. Before tliey reach Stroinness iu the Orkneys, where they did not arrive till the 30ih, they Avere nearly shipwrecked. They here took in water and some provisions; and on the 3d of July sailed from Stromness. But it was soon discovered that the sailing-qualities of the Griper were of the worst description ; and, whilst steering their course across the Atlantic, it was necessary she should he frequently taken in tow by her pro. vision-tender, the Snap. On the 1st of August they fell in with their first piece of ice, a small berg of about 70 feet ; and in the evening they first discerned the Labrador coast On the 3d the stores were removed from the Snap in a fog so dense, " that the boats were directed backwards and forwards, amongst loose ice, by the sound of bells which were continued ringing." " When our stores were all on board," says Captain Lyon, " we found her narrow decks completely crowded by them. The gangways, forecastle, and abaft the mizen- masts, were filled with casks, hawsers, whale-lines, and stream ca- blc; while on our straightened lower deck we wtre obliged to place casks and other stores in every part but that allotted to the ship's-company's mess-table; and even ray cabin hnd a quantity of things stowed away in it. The launch was filled high above her gunwales with various articles ; and our chains and waist were lumbered with spars, planks, sledges, wheels, &c. Our draft of water aft was now six- teen feet one inch, and forward fifteen feet ten inches." On the 5th they made Cape Resolution, the weather be- ing very severe; and Captain Lyon declares, that even " up to this period, we had, in fact, experienced more se- vere and unplosant weather than during our passage out on the last voyage." On the 8th, abreast of S&ddleback, and the Middle Savage Islands, and about five miles from the land, the Griper struck twice, and heeled very much, but fortunately did not sustain any damage. The deviation o» the compasses now became very great, notwithstanding one TO THE NORTH POLE. 297 I they arrive ^ here f July tiat the iplion ', , it was ler pro- piece of ing they te stores that tlie o-st loose ringing." lin Lyon, I by them, asts, were ;ream ca- re obliged at allotted cabin had unch was licles; and Is, planks, now six- ihes." feather be- that even A more se- lage out on 'back, and from the [much, but leviation oi anding one had been fitted with Professor Barlow's plato. Ruin had fallen incessantly during the last two days, and on the 10th continued with fog until noon, when the sky cleared, and they made the Upper Savage Island, and, making fast tu the largest floe they had yet seen, remained until the fol- lowing noon. " On this floe, as the weather was tolerably line, we were enabled to stretch lines for the purpose of dry- ing clothes, &c. which was now very requisite, as, from the continual wet weather we had experienced, the ship and every thing within her had become very damp." At day-light on the 12th the first Esquimaux was seen paddling very quietly towards them ; and, hauling bis ca- noe on the ice, began to barter. From Captain Lyon's knowledge of the language a conversation directly took place, and in about half an hour sixty more natives made their appearance in eight kajaks and three omiaks, the lat- ter with sails made of the intestines of the walrus. As usual, they began tu make free with many articles j and one fellow succeeded in picking the captain's pocket of his handker- chief, for which be received a box on the ear. The others traded fairly, each woman producing her stores from a neat little skin bag, which was distinguished by our men by the name of a reticule. A new variety of comb was pur- chased, and Captain Lyon procured a mirror composed of a broad plate of black mica, so fitted into a leathern case as to be seen on either side. Some of the natives were ad- mitted on board the Griper to see the poneys and pigs, at which they evinced signs of fear, particularly at the squeak- ing of the latter, and considered them as two new species of tooktoo, (rein-deer.) Captain Lyon purchased for a knife the sail of a woman's boat. It was nine feet five in- ches at the head, by only six feet at the foot, and having a I dip of thirteen feet. The gut of which it was composed Uasin four-inch breadths, neatly sewed with thread of the jsame material ; and the whole sail only weighed three pounds P. V. 13. Q q . .V-- 'i — If"' in im r lu\ m. :: I 208 PARRYS VOYAGES three quarters. Off the North BhiiF another party was met with, and a faiciliar intercourse took place. On the 14ih, their progress was painfully slow, and they passed much closely-packed ice. The temperature was 30° in the shade, and the fog froze thickly on the rig. ging. On the 15th the compasses were extremely sluggigh, and the one fitted with the plate showed as much deviatioa when the ship's head was to the eastward as any other. This caused much anxiety. On the I7th they made Charles Island, and killed two walrusses in shoal water. Before the evening of the 10th they were within ten miles of Cape Wolstenholme, and the following afternoon of Digges Is- land, the sea full of ice. The very dull and bad sailing of the Griper continued ; and, on the morning of the 22d, part of the mountains of Southampton Island were seen. On the 24tb, Captain Lyon, accompanied by Mr. Ken- dal, landed for the purpose of making observations. They saw some deer. They returned on board in the afternooD ; and the point on which they landed was named after Mr. Leyson, the assistant surgeon ; and the inlet between it and Cape Pembroke named after Mr. Evans, the purser of the Griper. On the 25th they made the high land at Pembroke, the next day pass.ed abreast of it. The compasses had now become quite useless, with the ship's head southerly, and that in particular to which the plate was fitted so power- less, that its north point stood wherever it was placed by 'the finger; but, with the head northerly, they all traversed again. This, however, benefited but little ; for Captain j Lyon says, as our rout lay to the south-west, we were without other guidance than celestial bearings, which could | not always be obtained. On the 27tli they fell in with a native, who, as he a proaohed, was observed *' seat.ed on three inflated seal-skins, I connected most ingeniously by blown intestines, so tliathisl vessel was extremely buoyant. He was astride upon onel skin, while another of a larger size was secured on either sid'l among guished a child, forehead, it consist platted, ble a rouj bound tig four feet. On the found sou ga'e, and Captain and a hig|| 1*''^ and '"und, tha ^% low, and mperature an t\»e rig- y slagg'wh, U deviation any other. Dule Charles Before the les of Cape Digges h- lad sailing o( Lhe22d, part seen. by Mr. Ken- tions. They he afternoon ; led after Mr. bet-ween it and , purser of the I at Pembroke, »asses had no« southerly, and ted so power- was placed b] ey all traversed ' , J for Captain ] west, we were I es, whichcouU] ivho, as he ap- Hated seal-skins,| Lines, 80 thatbisl xstride upon one] :ed on either sid«| TO TUB NORTH POLE. »B of it, 80 that he was placed in a kind uf huUow. His legs, well furnished witli seal-skin boots, were immerged nearly to the knees in water, and he rowed with a very slender soot- stained paddle of whalebone, which was secured to his boat by a thong. He exhibited some signs of fear ; but, some beads being given to him, he placed them with trembling lingers across a large bunch^of huir which protruded from Ilia forehead. Captain Lyon aftcmards landed with him, in hopes of obtaining sights for the instruments, and was then Joined by six others, who all appeared most miserable, having only a piece of chipped flint fur n knife. They af- terwards visited two tents, very small, and full of holes, in which were five women and six children. One of the wo- men, by her appearance, could have been scarcely fifteen years of age ; yet carried her own child, a stout boy at least twelve months old, at her back. In one tent was a little piece of deal, about three inches in length, planed and painted black on one side ; and, with three buws made of many pieces, was all the wood in their possession. Knives, boarding-pikes, and many other articles, were distributed among these wretched beings. Each man was distin- guished by an immense mass uf hair, as large as the head uf a child, rolled into a ball, and projecting from the rise of the forehead. Captain Lyon caused one of these to be opened- It consisted of six long strings of his own locks, originally platted, but so matted with dirt, deer's fur, &c. as to resem- ble a rough hair- tether. These extraordinary tresses were bound tightly together at their base, and measured above lour feet. On the 20th they again landed to procure water, and found some Esquimaux graves. In the afternoon it blew a gale, and the ship was put under close reefed top-sails. Captain Lyon adds, a strong weather-tide rose so short, and a high sea, that for three hours the ship was unmanage- able, and pitched bowsprit-under every moment. We now found, that, although with our liead oft' this truly dangerous Q 4 2 A ' fc, : I*.:: ■ 'if (f vr' h.i ' ^1 300 PARRYtt VOYAUkH Hliorc, >ve werenearing it rapidly, and driving boldly down uii the shoal. To add, if possible, to this distressing si- tuation, the masts were expected to go every moment, and all hands were kept on deck in readiness. The tiller twice broke adrift, ond two men were bruised. In the morning the wind Came round and moderated from south-west, with a turbulent short sea. The deviation of the compasses now increased, and, with the lamentable sailing of the Griper, the strong tides, and bad weather, caused her situation to be most ])erilou8. '* Capt. Lyon says, as there was reason to fear the falling of the tide, which was from 12 to 15 feet on this coast, and in that case the total destruction of the ship, 1 caused (he long-boat to bo hoisted out, and, with the four smaller ones, to be stored to a certain extent with arms and provisions. The oificers drew lots for their respective boats, and the ship's company were stationed to them. The long-boat having been filled with stores which uould not be put below, it became requisite to throw them overboard, as there was no room for them on our very small and crowded decks, over which heavy seas were constantly sweeping. In mak- ing these preparations for taking to the boats, it was evident to all, that the long-boat was the only one which had the slightest chance of living under tha lee of the ship, should she be wrecked ; but every man drew his lot with the great- est composure, although two of our boats would have been swamped the instant they were lowered. Yet such was the noble feeling of those around me, that it was evident, had 1 ordered the boats in question to be manned, their crews would have entered them without a murmur. " In the afternoon, on the weather clearing a little, we discovered a low beach all around astern of us, on which the surf was running to an awful height; and it appeared evident that no human power could save us. At three in the afternoon the tide had fallen to twenty- two feet (only six feet more than we drOiW>;) aud the ship, having been lifted I'D run NORTH VOLE. 301 by a treinenilouB aeo, struck witli great violence the whole Itfiigtii uf Iter keel. This we naturally conceived was the forerunner uf her total wreck, and we ittood in readineas to take to the boats and endeavour to hang under her lee. She continued to strike with sufficient force to have burst any less lurtified vessel, at intervals of a few minutes, when- evei- an unusually heavy sea passed us ; and, as the water was 80 shallow, these might almost be called breakers ra- ther than waves, for each in passing burst with great force over our gangways ; and, as every sea topped, our decks were continually, and frequently flooded. All hands took a little refreshment, for some had scarcely been below for twenty-four hours, and I had not been in bed for three nights. Although few or none of us had any idea that we should survive the gale, we did not think that our comforts should be entirely neglected ; and an order was therefore given to the men to put on their best and warmest clothing, to ena- ble them to support life as long as possible. Every man therefore, brought his bag on deck, and dressed himself; and, in the line athletic forms which stood before me, I did not see one muscle quiver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. The officers each secured some useful instrument about them for the purpose of observation, although it was ac- knowledged by all, that not the slightest hope remained. At about six in the afternoon the rudder, which had received some very heavy blows, rose, and broke up the after- lock- ers ; and this was the last severe shock which the ship re- ceived. We found by the well that she made no water, and by dark she struck no more. God was merciful to us ; and the tide, almost miraculously, fell no lower. At dark heavy rain iell, but was borne with patience ; for it beat down the gale, and brought with it a light air from the northward. At nine in the evening the water had deepened to five fa> thoins. The ship kept off the ground all night, and our exhausted crew obtained some broken rest." The next morning they weighed their anchors, and found ' A V' 909 parry's voyaobs that the best bower had lost a ^uke, and that the others were uninjured. This place, Captain Lyon adds, *< in huroble gratitude for our delivery, 1 named the bay of God's Mercy." The latitude of it is 63° 85' 48" N. longitude 80° 32'W. ■■'■ • ■ '• There was at this moment no anchor left in the ship. Notwithstanding, it was determined, if possible, to winter about Chesterfield Inlet, or even to the southward of that spot. The persevering eftbrts of all on board were accord- ingly directed to gain the American shore ; but finding that the ship got into the shallows of Hudson's Bay, they were relu'^tantly conpelled to edge away for Salisbury Is* land, still hoping tiiat a few fine nnd favourable days would restore to them their lost ground. At length the hope- less continuance of bad weather, the wretched condition of the ship (from her incapacities,) the ofllicers and crew having suflered more hardships than on any previous voy- age, the advanced stage of the season, with numerous other concomitant miseries, compelled Captain Lyon to consent that the ship should be got out of Hudson's Straits (an ex- tent of 800 miles of dangerous navigation ;) which place they h»d scarcely cleared, when a southerly gale drove them up to Davis's Straits, 150 miles to the southward of Reso- lution Island. Providentially, a change of wind enabled them soon after to proceed on a southern passage homeward ; and the Griper arrived at Portsmouth in six weeks in the state described. The Griper spoke several whalers, all of which had been unsuccessful in the fishery ; no ship had more than two fish, and many none whatever. From the master of the Phoenix whaler. Captain Lyon heard that Captain Parry's expedi* tion had been seen in the middle of August, in lat. 71" beset with ice. On the whole, the season has been more boister- ous, and consequently the sea less clear, than it has been known'fora number of years. It was very questionable if Captain Parry would be ableto reach Lancaster Sound. Had TU THB NORTH POLK. 308 the Griper etftfoted a wintering; either in RepuUe-3ay or Wager River, or Ctiesterfield InU't, Captuiii Lyun, with a strong party, would have made a land-journey to Point Turnugain, near the Coppermine River, a distance of seven hundred miles, fur which expedition they were fully equipped. Captain Parry, if he succeeds in passing Lancaster Sounds and getting to the southward down Prince Regent's Inlet (by which Captain Lyon was next year to communicate with him,) will send a land expedition, if possible,' in the snme direction, as well as to Repulse Bay, in the hope of commu- nicating with the Griper. Whenever any further information shall be obtained as to the fate of the third voyage of Captain Parry, it will be nar- rated in this work. If 1,1''' * ( 804 ) CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA. V " ill The Government having deterniined upon sending an ex- pedition from the shores of Hudson's Bay by land, to ex- plore the northern coast of America, from the mouth of the Coppermine River to the eastward, Captain Franklin wns appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the recom- mendatiun of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty ; who, at the same time, nominated Doctor John Richard- son, a surgeon in the Royal Navy, Mr. George Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen, to be joined vritb him in the enterprize. The main object of (he Expe- dition was that of determining the latitudes and longitudes of the northern coast of North America, and the trending of that coast from the mouth of the Coppermine River to the eastern extremity of that continent. Circumstances were tu guide him whether to proceed at once directly to the northward till be arrived at the sea- coast, and thence west- erly towards the Coppermine River ; or advance, in the first instance, by the usual route to the mouth of the Copper- mine River, and from thence easterly till be should arrive at the eastern extremity of that continent. In the adoption of either of these plans, he was to be guided by the advice of the Hudson's Bay Company, who would be instructed by their employers to co-operate cordially in the prosecution of the objects of the expedition, and who would provide him TO THE POLAR SEA. 805 witii the necessary escort of Indians to act as guides, inter- preters, game-killers, 8fc. ; and also with such articles of clothing, ammunition, snow-shoes, p'-esents, Sfc. as should be deemed expedient to take. Another principal object of the expedition was to amend the very defective geography of the northern part of North America, to ascertain cor- rectly the latitude and longitude of every remarkable spot upon the route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, head- lands, Sfc. that might occur along the northern shores of North America. In proceeding along the coast, he was to erect conspicuous marks at places where ships might enter, or to which a boat could be sent ; and to deposit information as to the nature of the coast for the use of Lieutenant Parry. Jn the journal of his route, he was to register the tempera- ture of the air at least three times in every twenty-four hours ; together with the state of the wind and weather, and any other meteorological phenomena. He was to notice whether any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora Bo- realis might appear to exert on the magnetic needle ; and to notice whether that phenomenon were attended with any noise ; and to make any other observations that might be likely to tend to the further developement of its cause, and the laws by which it is governed. Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist in all the obser- vations above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the land, of the natives, and of the various objects of natural his- tory ; and, particularly, of such as Dr. Richardson, who, to his professional duties, was to add that of naturalist, might consider to be most curious and interesting. He was instructed on arriving at, or near, the mouth of the Coppermine River, to make every inquiry as to the si- tuation of the spot whence native copper had been brought down by the Indians to the Hudson's Bay establishment, and to visit and explore the place in question ; in order that Dr. Richardson oaight be enabled to make such observatioos P. V. 13. R R k! -i. m^ I If f do» franklin's journey i, 1 ■ » [ •1 ! HI, '1 « as might be useful in a commercial point of view, or inter- eHting to the science of mineralogy. Joseph Berens, Esq. the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the gentlemen of the committee, afforded all kind of assistance and information, previous to his leaving England ; and they sent orders to their agents and servants in North America, containing the fullest directions to pro- mote, by every means, the progress of the Expedition, m gentlemen of the North-west Company, both in England and America, also gave much useful information, and sent let- ters of recommendation to the partners and agents of that Company, resident on the line of route. The late Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who visited the coast they were to explore, afforded in the most open and kind manner, much valuable information and advice. The provisions, instruments, and articles furnished by di- rection of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, were embarked on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince ofWales, appointed by the committee to convey theexpedi- tion to York Factory, their principal establishment in Hud- son's Bay. To Dr. Richardson, in particular, the exclu- sive merit is due of whatever collections and observations have been made in the department of natural history. The charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back and the late Lieutenant Hood.^ Both these gentlemen cheer- fully and ably assisted in making the observations and in the daily conduct of the expedition. Great praise is due to the fidelity, exertion and uniform good conduct in the most trying situations, of John Hepburn, an English seaman, and the only attendant, to whom in the latter part of the journey they owed, under Divine Providence, the preserva- tion of the lives of some of the party. All things having been previously arranged, the party (em- barked on the 23d of May 1 819, on board the Prince of Wales, a thip belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. The \vinu not being favourable they did not reach Yarmouth Roads TO TUB I'OLAR SEA. 307 until the SOtli, and expecting to remain there for a change of wind, several officers and passengers went on shore. Tbey bad not however been long landed before the wind changed to the souths east, and the ship fired signal guns for all to be on board. Mr. Back having gone a few miles di8> tanceon business, the ship sailed without him, but Captain Franklin left a letter directing him to proceed by coach to Strornness, at which place he arrived nearly at the same period as the ship, having travelled nine days almost with- out taking rest. At Strornness Captain Franklin endeavoured to engage some seamen adapted to the service on which he was pro- ceeding. On the 14th of June several persons met him by appointment ; but they were su impressed with apprehen- sion that great danger would attend the service, or that they would be taken further than the engagement required, that only four men offered themselves. The bowmen and steer- men were to receive forty pounds a year, and the middlemen thirty-five pounds. Captain Franklin says " They stipu- lated to be sent back to the Orkney Islands, free of expense, and to receive their pay until the time of arrival. Only these few men could be procured, although our requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme caution these men used before they would sign the agreement ; they minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern marin- ers form a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless manner in which an English seaman enters upon any enter, prise, however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring to know where he is going, ur what he is going about. The Brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Mis- sionary Society, and bound to their settlement at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying at anchor. With the view R I 2 ; M /. If 4 i'fX ■) •. , i l\ ' ' t i'?: I I '1^ il\ li 308 FRANKLINS JUURNEY of collecting; some Esquimaux words and sentences, or gaining any informatiuii respecting the manners and habits of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found the passengers, who were going out as Missionaries, extremely disposed to communicate ; but as they only spoke the German and Esquimaux languages, of both which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily much confined : by the aid, however, of an Eh- qu'imaux and German dictionary, some few words were col- lected, which we considered might be useful. There were on board a very interesting girl, and a young man, who were natives ofDisko, in Old Greenland; both of them had fair complexions, rather handsome features, and a lively manner ; the former was going to be married to a resident Missionary, and the latter to oiliciatc in that character. The commander of the vessel gave ine a translation of the Gos. pel of St. John in the Esquimaux language, printed by the Moravian Society in London." - On the 18th the Prince of Wales made the preparatory signal for sea. At three in the afternoon the ships weighed, an hour too early for the tide ; as soon as this served they entered into the passage between Hoy and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell, which the meet- ing of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned, Solne dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore, and on this side also the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing the outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona, they entered at once into the Atlantic, and commenced their voyage to Hudson's Bay, having the Eddystone, Wear, and Harmony Missionary brig, in com- pany. ■";.,:' Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic, Captain Franklin issued a general lucmoranduiu for the guidance of the officers during the prosecution of the service on which they were engaged, and communicated to them the several points of iuformatiun that were expected from them by their '\n~ TO THE POLAR SliV. 301) structioiis. He ali^o furnished tliem Vi'aU copies ol'tliesigiials wliicli liad been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parrj? and liimself, to be used in the event of reoching tlie northern coast of Anaerica, and falling in witii each other. At the end of the month of June, the progress was found to have been extremely slow, owing to a determined N.W. wind uiid much sea. Numerous birds hovered round the ship ; piiiicipally fulmars and shearwaters, and they not unfre- (juently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which the Greenland seamen term tinners from their large dorsal fill. Some porpoises occasionally appeared, and whenever they did, the crew were sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy change in the wind, which had been so vexatiously contrary, but they were disappointed in every instancy By the 25th of July they had opened the entrance of Davis* Straits, and in the afternoon spoke the Andrew Marveli, bound to England with a cargo of fourteen fisii. The mas- ter said that the ice had been heavier this season in Davis' Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it lay particu- larly close to the westward, being connected with the shore tu the northward of Resolution Island, and extending from thence within a short distance of the Greenland coast; that whales had been abundant, but the ice so extremely cross, that few could be killed. His ship, as well us several others, had suffered material injury, and two vessels had been en- tirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° 40' N. but the crews were saved. No intelligence could be obtained respecting Lieutenant Parry, and the ships under his command ; but blowing strong from the northward for sometime, which would, probably clear Baffin's B.»y of ice, they were disposed to hope favourably of his progress. On the 4th of August, in latitude 59^ 58' N. longitude 59° 53' VV. they first fell in with large icebergs; and in the evening' were encompassed by several of considerable inugnitude, which obliged them to tack the ship, in order ' 'I «.' •I m ;^' 310 franklin's journey / h ft' to prevent getting^ entangled amongfst thena. The estU mated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast was then 88 miles ; here they tried for soundings, without gaining the bottom. On the 5th of August, a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one of the larger icebergs, but ineifectuully, owing to the steepness and smoothness of its sides, and the swell produced by its undulating motion. This was one of the largest they saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained its height to be 140 feet ; but these masses of ice are frequently mag. nified to an immense size, through the illusive medium of a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions have often been exaggerated by voyagers. In the morning of the 7th, tlie Island of Resolution was indistinctly seen through the haze, but was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into a perfect calm, and left the ship sjr- rounded by loose ice. . Two attempts were ineifectually made to gain soundings, and the exvreme density of the fog precluded any other means of ascertaining (he direction in which the ship was driving until half-past twelve, when they had the alarming view of a barren rugged shore within a few yards, towering over the mast heads. Almost in- stantly afterwards the ship struck violently on a point of rock, projecting from the island ; and the ship's side was brought so near to the shore, that poles were prepared to push her off. This blow displaced the rudder, and raised it several inches, but it fortunately had been previously (M)iifined by tackles. A gentle swell freed the ship fronn this perilous situation, but the current hurried the ship along in contact with the rocky shore, and the prospect was most alarming. On the outward bow was- perceived a rug- ged and precipitous cliff, whose summit was hid in the fog, and the vessel's head was pointed towards the bottom of a small bay, into which they were rapidly driving. There now seemed to be no probability of escaping shipwreck, being V- \. TO THB POLAR SBA. 311 iition was ftervrards avourable ship sar- effectually of the fog irection in slve, when lore within Umost in- a point of a side was irepared to and raised )reviou9ly ship from the ship ■ospect was lived a rug- in the fog, lottoin of a There now eck, being without wind, and having the rudder in its present useless state ; the only assistanca was that of a boat employed in towing, which had been placed in the water between the ship and the shore, at the imminent risk of its being crushed. The ship again struck in passing over a ledge of rocks, and happily the blow replaced the rudder, which enabled them to take advantage of a light breexe, and to direct the ship's head withouv' the projecting cliff. But the breeze was only momentary, and ^^le ship was a third time driven on shore on the rocky termination of the clifT. Here they remained stationary for some seconds, and with little prospect of being removed from this perilous situation, but were once more extricated by the swell from this ledge also, and car- ried still farther along the shore. The coast became now oiore riigged, and the view of it was terminated by another projecting point on the starboard bow. Happily, before they had reached it, a light breeze enabled them to turn the ship's head to seaward, and she drew off the shore. They had made but little progress, however, when she was vio- lently forced by the current against a kirge iceberg lying aground. The prospect was now more alarming than at any preceed- ing period ; and it would be difficult to pourtray the anxiety and dismay depicted on the countenances of the female pas- sengers and children, who were rushing on deck in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep them below, out of the danger which was apprehended if the masts should be car- ried away. After the first concussion, the ship was driven along the steep and rugged side of tliis iceberg with such anaazing rapidity, that the destruction of the masts seemed inevitable, and every one expected to be forced on the rocks in the most disabled state ; but providentially, they escaped this perilous result, which must have been decisive. The dense fog now cleared away for a short time, and (hey discovered tlie Eddystone close to some rocks, having ^ '' 4 ;( Mi ^■>i i '■■ImI :y .l,.t i 312 franklin's joukney h 1 I ! / three bouts employed in towing; but the Wear wai not vi- sible. The ship receiving water very fastj the pumps were in- stantly manned and kept in continual use, and signals of distress were made to the Eddystone, whose commander promptly came on board, and then ordered to our assistance his carpenter and all the men he could spare, together with the carpenter and boat's crew yf the Wear, who had gone on board the Eddystone in the morning, and were prevented from returning to their own vessel by the fog. As the wind was increasing, and the sky appeared very unsettled, it was determined the Eddystone should take the ship in tow, that the undivided attention of the passengers and crew might be directed to pumping, and clearing the holds to ex- amine whether there was a possibility of stopping the leak. They soon found the principal injury had been received from a blow ncaf* the stern-post, and, after cutting away part of the ceiling, the carpenters endeavoured to stop the rusLins^ in of the water, by forcing oakum between the timbers ; but this had not the desired effect, and the leak, in spite of all eflforts at the pumps, increased so much, that parties of the officers and passengers vvere stationed to bail out the 'water in buckets at different parts of the hold. A heavy gale came on, blowing from the land, as the night advanced ; the sails were split, the ship was encompassed by heavy ice, and, in forcing through a closely-connected stream, the tow-rope broke, and they were obliged to take a portion of the sea- men from the pumps, and appoint them to the management of the ship. On the 0th upwards of five feet water was found in the well. Renewed exertions were now put forth by every per- son, and before eight in the morning the water was so much reduced as to enable the carpenters to get at other defective places ; but the remedies they could apply were insufficient to repress the water from rushing in, and all their labours could but just keep the ship in the same state throughout the 'U • '"■':<: TO TifB i>OLAR BBA. 919 liay, until six in the afternoon ; when the stren^tl' ' ^very one began to fall, the expedient of thrustirif^ in felt, ns tvcll as oakum, was resorted to, mid a plunk nailed orer all. After (his oiteration a pcrceptihie diminution in the water was made, and bein^ encouraj^ed by the cliano^e, the utmost ex- ertion was used in bailing and pumping ; and before night, tiie leak was so ovcrj)owerc(l that the ])umps were only re- quired to be used at intervals of ten minutes. A sail, co- vered with every substance that could be carried into the leaks by the pressure of the water, was drawn under the quarter of the ship, and secured by ropes on each side. As a matter of precaution in the event of having to aban- don the ship, which was for some time doubtful, the elderly women and children were removed to the Eddystone when the wind was moderate, but the young women remained to assist at the pumps, and their services were highly valuable, both for their personal labour, and for the encouragement their example and perseverance gave to the men. At day-light, every eye was anxiously cast around the horizon in search of the Wear, but in vain ; and the recol- lection of their own recent peril caused considerable appra- hensions for her safety. Every glass was directed along the shore to discover any trace of their absent consort. Guns were frequently fired to apprize any who might be near of their approach ; but no one appeared, and no sii^nnl was returned. At eight in the evening they were abreast of the island called Cape Resolution, which is a low point, but in-- dicated at a distance by a lofty round backed hill that rises above it. They entered Hudson's Straits soon afterwards. They arrived abreast of the Upper Savage Island early in the morning of the 12th of August, and as the breeze was moderate, the ship was steered as near to the shdre as the wind would permit, to give the Esquimaux inhabitants an opportunity of conriing off to barter, which they soon em- braced. Th'Mr shouts at a distance intimated their approach some- P. V. 14. S s * < K i 314 FRANKMNIS JOURNBY ■I W time before they deacribed the canoes padillin^^ to ward!; UiLtu- the headmost of them reached u^ at eleven j these were quickly followed by others, niid before noon iibout forty ci<- noes, each holding one man, were assembled round the two ships. In the afternoon, when we approached nearer to Uie shore, five or six larger ones, containing the woiren ami children, came up. The Esquimaux immediately evinced their dcairb to bar- ter, and displayed no small cunning in making their bar- gains, taking care not to exhibit too many articles at first. Their principal commodities were, nii, sea-horse teeth, whalebone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, deer-fikias and horns, and models of their canoes ; and they received in . exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin -kettles, and nee- dles. It was pleasing to bebnld the exultation, and to liear the shouts of the whole party, when an acquisition was made by any one ; tnd not a little ludicrous to behold the eager- ness with which the fortunate person licked each article with his tongue, on receiving it, as a finish to the bargain, and an act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted this strange practice, however small the article ; the needles even passed individually through the ceremony. The wo- men brought imitations of men, women, animals, and birds, carved with labour and ingenuity out of sea-horse teeth. The dresses and the figures of the animals, were not badly exe- cuted, but there was no attempt at the delineation of the countenances ; and most of the figures were without eyes, ears, and fingers, the execution of which would, perhaps, have required more delicate instruments than they possess. The men set most value on saws ; kuttee-swa-bak,tbe name by which they distinguish them, was a constant cry. Knives were held next in estimation. An old sword was bartered from the Eddyatone, and I shall long remember the uni- versal burst of joy on the happy man's receiving it, II was delightful to witness the geceral interest excited by indivi- dual acquisitions. There was no desire shewn by any one i4 TO THU POLAR iUX. 315 to over-reach his neighbour, or to press totvarils any part of (lie siiip where a bargain was making, until the person in possession of the place had completed his exchange and re- moved, and, if any article happened to be demanded from the outer canoes, the men nearest assisted willingly in pass- ini,' the thing across. Supposing the party to belong to one tribe, the total number of the tribe must exceed two hun- dred persons, as there were, probably, one hundred and fifty around the ships, and few of these were elderly persons, or male children. Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes small. The men were in general stout. Some of the younger women and the children had rather pleasing countenances; but the diiference between these and the more aged of that sex, bore strong testimony to the eifocts which a few years produce in tliis ungeuial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all of them appeared of a pletho -ic habit of body ; several were observed bleeding at the nose during their stay near the ship. The men's dresses consisted of u jacket of seal-skin, the trowsers of bear-skin, and several had caps of the white fox-skin. The female dresses were made of the same ma- terials, but differently shaped, having a hood in which the infants were carried. They thought their manner very lively and agreeable. They were fond of mimicking their speech and gestures ; but nothing afforded them greater amuse- ment than when they attempted to retaliate by pronouncing any of their words. The canoes were of seal-skin, and similar in every re- ipect to those of the Esquimaux in Greenland ; they were generally new and very complete in their appointments. Those appropriated to the women are of ruder construction, and only calculated for fine weather ; they are, however, useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons with their luggage. An elderly man officiates as steers- man, and the women paddle, but they have also a mast which carries a sail, made of dressed whale-fu!. W Uw ai6 PHANKMN'li JUURNBY t 'I t - 1- the women lind diNposed «f all (heir orliclrs of trade (boy resorted tu entreaty, and puttinu; in praotive inuny vnt'uin^ ^Kstiirt^H to priu'ui't) tilt in pro.uMits of u var'u'iy ot btailk, ne«g, iiiid udii'r artu.lt.n in ^'^(>itl tiuiiiiiiid uuum^ I'uiiiulen. Ou tiiti evening ul' (Iib 19tli, tlioy pii^Hed Di^ge'H IsluiuU, the teriniimtion of Iludiiun'ii Strait. Here the EddyHtone parted company, being bound to Mmisu Factory at tlic but- toin of the Hay. On the 30lh the Prince of Wales ariived olF York I'Lits, and tliey had the gratirying sight uf the bhip Wear, which they feared was io»t, riding at anchor. The goveruur of the place, Mr. Williams, came on hoard, accompanied by tho comniandur of tlie Wear ; ind the latter gentlemjD« (^rom the uircum!ci>ived information from the Committer of the lludsuifs IJiy Coiiipany of theeipiip- ment of the Expedition, and (hat liie oBieers would come out in their first ship. In the evening Dr. Ilichardson, Mr, Hood, and Captain Franklin, accoiu|)anied him to York Factory, which they reached after dark ; it is distant from the Flats seven miles. Early next morning the honour ol' a salute was conferred on the members of the Expedition. Captain Franklin informed (he governor (hat he was ili- rected to consult with him and tliesenior ollicers of the Com- pany as to the best mode of proceeding on their journey, and in reply was informed that instructions had been sent to hiin to render all possible assistance to the expedition. He abo received the most friendly and full assurance from Mr. Siiaw and other gentlemen belonging to the North-west Company, of their curdial disposition tu promote (he interests of the ex- TO Till POLAR BRA. 817 ])i'(iitioii ; and bh at t\\\n period a viuleiU commercial opfu.'^ti- (ion exi!iU>(i between (he IIudson^H Hiiy and the NortlNwest ('(iiii|iaiiy, (ItiM aHHuruiicc was hi^i^hiy gratilyiiig. From (liesu ffcMitiemeii they ohtuiiied much iiii'urinatioii respecting the iiiteriur of the country. Under a consideration of the ujipoiiite inter«Nta of the two companies, Captain Franliiiii Issued an order strictly prohibiting!; all interference in their quarrels. This order he made known to the principals of the ditf't'rent Companies, and they expressed their satisfac- tiun thereat. The opinion of the gentlemen connected with both companies was that the party should proceed by Cum- berland House, and through the chain of posts to the Great Slave Lake, and Captain Franklin determined to pursue the route they recommended. York Factory, the principal depot of the Hudson's Bay Company, stands on the west Dank of ilayes' River, about five miles above its mouth, on the marshy peninsula which separates the Hayes and Nelson Rivers. The surrounding country "ts flat and swampy, and covered with willows, pop- lars, larch, spruce, and birch- trees ; but the requisition for fuel has expended all the wood in the vicinity, and the residents have now to send for it to a considerable distance. The principal buildings are placed in the form of a square, having an octagonal court in the centre ; they are two stories in height, and have flat roofs covered with lead. The of- ticers dwell in one portion of this square, and in the other parts the articles of merchandise are kept : the workshops, storehouses for the furs, and the servants' houses are ranged on the outside of the square, and the whole is surrounded by a stockade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from the house to the pier on the bank for the ccnvenience of transporting the stores and furs, which is the only prome- nade the residents have on this marshy spot during the sum- mer season. The few Indians who frequent this establish- ment, belong to the Swampy Crees. There were several of them encamped on the outside of the stockade. Their I i 818 franklin's jouknby i!"J: :l I' '■ f, .'Mf!;f terittf Tvere rudely constructed by tying twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and spreading them out at the base so as to form a cone ; these were covered with dressed moose-skins. The fire is placed in the centre, and a hole is left for the escape of the smoke. The inmates had a squalid look, and were suffering under the combined af- flictions of hooping-cough and measles ; but even these mi- series did not keep them from an excessive indulgence in spirits, which they unhappily can procure from the traders with too much facility. Their sickness at this time was particularly felt by the traders, this being the season of the year when the exertion of every hunter is required to procure their winter's stock of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the extensive flats in this neighbourhood. These birds, during the sum- mer, retire far to the north, and breed in security ; but, when the approach of winter compels them to seek a more southern climate, they generally alight on the marshes of this bay, and fatten there for three weeks or a m6nth, be- fore they take their final departure from the country. They also make a short halt at the same spots in their progress northwards in the spring. Their arrival is welcomed with joy, and the goose hunt is one of the most plentiful seasons of the year. The ducks frequent the swami)s all tiie summer. All things having been prepared, and one of the largest Company's boats having been procured, the party prepared early in the month of September for their departure. The various stores provided however were found too bulky to be stowed in the boat, so that a part of the provisions were necessarily left behind. All of them excepting the ba- con, which was of too great a bulk, the governor promised to forward in tlie course of the next season, and the party embarked under a salute of eight guns and three cheers from the fort, thus commencing their voyage into the interior of America. The wind and tide failing at the distance ofsix miles above TO THE POLAR SEA. 310 It thirty t at the , dressed id a hole tps had a ibined af- these mi- ilgence in lie traders felt by the le exertion iter's stock a extensive g the sum- jurity ; but, eek a more marslies of i\i6nth, be- mtry. They eir progress corned with tiful seasons the summer. ,f the largest ;rty prepared irture. Ti^e too bulky to lie provisions ating the ba- inor promised Liid the party |e cheers from he interior of L miles above the Factory, and the current being too rapid for using oars to advantage, the crew had to commence tracking, ur dragg- ing the boat by a line, to which tliey were harnessed. This operation is extremely laborious in these rivers. The men were obliged to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank, rendered at this season soft and slippery by frequent rains, and their progress was often further impeded by fallen trees, which, having slipped from the verge of the thick wood above, hung on the face of the bank in a great variety of di- rections. Notwithstanding these obstacles, they advanced at the rate of two miles an hour, one half of the crew reliev- ing the other at intervals of an hour and a half. The breadth of the stream, some distance above the Factory, is about lialt'a mile, and its depth, during this day's voyage, varied from three to nine feet. At sunset they landed, and pitched the tent for the night, having made a progress of twelve miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper speedily prepared, and they then retired in their buffalo robes, and enjoyed a night of sound repose. On the 14th Mr. M'Donald, on his way to Red River, in a small canue, manned by two Indians, overtook the party. The Indians, had on the preceding day, with no other arms than a hatchet, killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon. Three of the Company's boats joined in the course of the morning, and they pursued their course up Hill Ri- ver in company. Captain Franklin's boat being overladen, they were unable to keep pace with the others ; and, there- fore, proposed to the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boats, that they should relieve thetu of part of their cargo. Tills they declined doing, under the plea of not having re- ceived orders to that effect, notwithstanding the circular, furnished by Governor Williams, strictly enjoined all the Company's servants to afford every assistance. In conse- quence of this refusal they dropt behind, and being de- prived of t!ie advantttge of observing the route followed by the guide, who was in the foremost boat, they frequently I;-' • ' 'Iff / .1^ f . ■ I , * ^ m iiM 320 PRANKLIN'S iOURNEY took a wrong channel. The tow-line broke twice, and the boat was only preTented from going broadside down the stream, and breaking to pieces against the stones, by tlie officers and men leaping into the water, and holding her head to the current until the line cuuld be carried again to tlie shore. The traders, guides, and most experienced of the boatmen, being of opinion, that unless the boat was fiirtiier lightened, the winter would put a stop to their progress be- fore they could reach Cumberland House, or any eligible post, sixteen pieces were left with Mr, Bunn, the gentle- man in charge of a depot called Rock House, to be for- warded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this being their place of rendezTous. The exertions of the Orkney boatmen, (whom Captain Franklin had engaged) in navigating the rivers deserve the highest commendation. They had often to lift the boats over rocks by leaping into the water, although the temperature was below the freezing point. The immense loads which on many occasions they had to carry in crossing the portages or rocky parts, were also astonishing as well as their acti- vity on these occasions. They continued their journey, and on the twenty-third ar- rived at a depot on Swampy Lake. Here they were supplied with a further stock of provisions, denominated pemmican. This food consists of buifalo meat, which is pounded and mixed with melted fat. On examination this provision was found to be r;iv r.ldy ; but upon this wretched food the resi- dents at this cheerless abode, which consisted of only two persons, had to subsist until more arrived. On the 24th they passed through some woods which were still smoking, havinj? caught fire in the summer, through the negligence of some party in not properly extinguishing their fires when they left an encampment. This is no un- commoa occurrence in »lry seasons , and the woods on those occasions are seen blazing to the extent of several miles. On the 28th the party arrived at Oxford House, where mf TO THE POLAR SEA. 321 and the own the I, by the ; her head in to tlie ed of the 18 further )gres8 be- »y eligible le gentle- to be for- th\s being ity-third ar- ere supplied I pemmican. tounded and rotisiun was ,od the resi- of only two formerly the Hudson's Bay Company had a station. A few Cree Indians were encamped in the neighbourhood, hut they were at this time afflicted with the measles and (he hooping cough, and were altogether- in a wretched state. Captain Franklin endeavoured to prevail on some of these Indians to accompany them in hunting and killing ducks, which here were very numerous ; but could not prevail on any of them to join in the attempt. They procured on Holey Lake, on which Oxford House is situated, a supply of fish, which was very acceptable. On the following day two of the boats in passing Swampy Lake were broken against the rocks, ,111(1 this accident detained them some time in order to repair tlie boats. At this place the river runs with rapid force, and they were informed that in the preceding year, in hauling a itoat up one of th( c' ">»»«'.ls, a man was precipitated into the stream, and hurriet .v (he rapid with such force, that alleffortsto save him v.^.>^ incflfectual. On the second of October while superintending the opera- 1 tions of the party, Captain Franklin slipped from the sum- mit of a rock into the river, and for a time all his efforts to extricate himself failed. He was carried a considerable dis- tance down the stream, but at length he caught hold of a willow, and kept fast until two gentlemen belonging to the I Hudson's Bay company came to his assistance. At Norway House they met with Lord Selkirk's colonists hvho had been their companions as they sailed across the At- llantic, and had preceded their departure one day from York Factory. The people were greatly pleased at meeting each ether again in so distant and wild a country. On the 14th sailing across Cedar Lake, they landed at an Indian tent, which contained two families, to the nunaber of Ihirty persons. They were very poorly cloathed, and af- licted with the hooping cough and the measles, and were i this time preparing a sweating house to cure their sick onipanions. By singing and drumming &nd sweating they ure all the diseases they meet with. At a short distance, P. V. 14 T T ■^^wu t • ) \ iM; 322 FRANKLIKS JOURNEY It !. i:! - ' , ': ( f -S m i'% on an adjoining island, another party of Indians had fixed their residence, for the purpose of killing geese and ducks. They sailed up the Saskatchawan river, and passed another Indian party consisting of three tents, who appeared to be in a more afflicted state than the former. They were con. eluding their incantations for their sick. Among otlier gf their ceremonies on this occasion they hung up a dogaia propitiatory ofi^ring to their imaginary deity. Continuino their journey up the river, they came on the twentieth to another party of Indians. Tliese had a very large tent, forty feet long and eighteen feet wide, covered with raooje deer skins. There was a fire at each end, and openings for the smoke to pass through. In the centre of the teni there we' . drums and other instruments of enchantmeoi hanging up, and sleeping apartments appeared to be marked out and divided for different families. The party continued their journey across Pine Isld j Lake, and soon arrived at a station belonging to the Hud- son's Bay Company called Cumberland House. The lake I was so severely frozen near the sides, that they were uudn the necessity of breaking the ice to Knke their landin^goodl Governor Williams iiivited them to tnke up their winter rel sidiMice at this place, as it appeared impracticable to procdl any further with safety, the frost having set in with greal severity. Captain Franklin being satisfied of the proprietJ of accepting his invitation, preparations were iinmedMil made fur their accommodation, and an unfinished i>'iiliiiii;| was completed with all speed and every needful arraui, ment made. Captiiin Franklin visited Mr. Connolly, onij^ of the partners of the North-west Company, who assun him of every endeavour on his part to eftect the object offcij journoy. The winter having set in with severity, on the nin November it was determined to sejjd for a supply ofli^ from Swampy River, where a party had been stationed f the purpose of procuring a supply of that article. For tlJ :( 1.^ i '. Iv. Connolly, owi '(> I'HU I'OLAU SBA. 32:J purpose the sledges were prepared, and dogs and men were ill lull spirits at the prospect of their journey , and imme- diately on starting they went forwards with great rapidity. On removing into their newly-prepared house, they found it extremely cold, notwithstanding fires were kept up. On the 24th several Indians made their appearance at Cumberland House, who from ilfness had been incapable of hunting and procuring provisions. They appeared to be in jrreat distress, - and probably but for the supply now afforded tiiem by the Company, they would have perished from want. Indeed, instances were stated in which these peo- ple had been so overcome by hunger, as to kill and feed upon each other. In the beginning of December there was a partial thaw, and the ice on the Saskatchawan River, and on the lake, broke up, so as to render travelling dangerous. One of the party attached to Captain Franklin having the conduct of a sledge and dogs, in passing from Swampy River with fish, being fatigued, and riding on his sledge, was missed by his companions, who were driving other sledges, and great ap- prehensions were entertained for his safety. A party were sent the next day in search of him, who found him in the woods, to which he had turned, under the conviction that he could not get across the lake in his sledge. He was unpro- vided with materials for making a fire, and was much chilled by the cold ; but his companions brought him to the house in safety. The information which Captain Franklin obtained of the slate of the country, induced him to resolve on proceeding himself, during the winter, beyond the Great Slave Lake, and he communicated his resolution to the gentlemen who managed the concerns of the two trading Companies. He requested that by the middle of January he might be fur- nished with the means of conveyance for three persons, having resolved that Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood should remain at Cumberland House till the spring. r T 2 ll;} Vt': ';;', m qt ii'' i ■ iJ' ! I ■(!: 3J4 KUANKLIN « JOIRNJJV Christmas-day was spent at Cumberland Fort with I'cs- tivity ; all the people belonging to the factory liuvin" met, to be present on the occasion, and to partake of a substantial dinner, which was provided on the occasion. The entrance of the new year was celebrated by the dis- charge of fire arms, a ceremony always adopted at this sea- son, On this occasion the captain and his party dined wi(Ii the gentlemen of the North-west Company, and were regaled with the taste of a beaver, which they found to be excellent food. On the morning of the 17th of January, a wolf having been caught in a steel trap, ran off with it. A party went hi search of him, taking two English bull dogs and a terrier. At first the dogs appeared fearfiri, ond kept at a distance, barking loudly, but one of the party firing at the wolf, and wounding it, the dogs made an attack upon the creature, and it was soon killed. The severity of the winter was felt by the Indians ; many of them being reduced to a state of starvation and the great- est suffering. One evening a poor native entered the house of the North-west Company, with his only child in his arms, accompanied by his starving wife. They had been afflicted Avith the measles, and as soon as they recovered they set out for Cumberland House. They had been compelled to feed on bits of skin and offal, and at last had been several days without tasting food ; but the desire of saving the life of their infant child added strength to their efforts, and they perse- vered in their journey until they arrived at Cumberland House, but their infant expired just as they arrived within sight of the place. The gentleman in charge of the place received them with the greatest kindness, but language can- not describe their feelings in consequence of the loss of their child. The origin of the Crees, to which nation the Cumberland House Indians belong, is, like that of the other Aborigines of America, involved iu obscurity. Mr. Heckewelder, a TO THK I'OLAK SKA. 3a5 missionary, who resided long amongst these people, states, that the Lenape Indians have u tradition amongst them, of their ancestors having come from the westward, and taken possession of the whole country from the Missouri to the At- lantic, after driving away or destroying the original inhabit- ants of the land, whom they v. nn "" ^lligewi. In tliis migration and contest, wliich en.. 3d I' series of years, the Mengwe, or Iroquois, kept pace with them, moving in a parallel but more northerly line, and finally settling on the banks of the St. Lawrence, and the great lakes from whence it flows. The Lenapfe being more numerous, peopled not only the greater part of the country at present occupied by the United States, but also sent detachments to the north- ward as far as the banks of the River Mississippi and the shores of Hudson's Bay. The principal of their northern tribes are now known under the names of Saulteurs or Chip- peways, and Crees; the former inhabiting the country be- twixt Lakes Winipeg and Superior, the latter frequenting the shores of Hudson's Bay, from Moose to Churchill, and the country from thence as far to the westward as the plains which lie betwixt the forks of the Saskatchawan. These Crees, formerly known by the French Canadian traders under the appellation of Knisteneaux, generally de- signate themselves as Eithinyoowuc (men), or, when they wish to discriminate themselves from the other Indian na- tions, as Natliehwy-withinyoowuc (Southern-men.) The moral character of a hunter is acted upon by the na- ture of the land he inhabits, the abundance or scarcity of food, and in his means of access to spirituous liquors. In a country so various in these respects as that inhabited by the Crees, the causes alluded to must operate strongly in pro- ducing a considerable difference of character amongst the various hordes. ^ Much of their character, no doubt, originates in their mode of life ; accustomed as a hunter to depend greatly on chance for his subsistence, the Cree takes little thought of ilinii p N It f: ! ^ it;, 1 1 ■I I Ml '..I f t\ ; .i '. i 32G KAANKLIN* JUURNKY to-morrow; and the most oflensive part of hia behaviour — the habit of boasting — has been probably assumed as a ne- cessary part of his armour, which operates upon 'he fears of his enemies. Every Cree fears the medical or conjuring powers of his neighbour ; but at the same time exalts his own attainments to the skies. " I am God-like," is a common expression amongst them, and they prove their divinity-ship by eating live coals, and by various tricks of a similar na- ture. A medicine-bag is an indispensable part of u hunter's equipment. It is generally furnished with a little bit of in- digo, blue vitriol, vermilion, or some other showy article; and is, when in the hands of a noted c()njurer, such an ob- ject of terror to the rest of the tribe, that its possessor is enabled to fatten at his ease upon the labours of his deluded countrymen. A fellow of this description came to Cumberland House in the winter of 1819. Notwithstanding the then miserable state of the Indians, the rapacity of this wretch had been preying upon their necessities, and a poor hunter was ac- tually at the moment pining away under the influence of his threats. The mighty conjurer, immediately on his arrival at the House, began to trumpet forth his powers, boasting, among other things, that although his hands and feet were tied as securely as possible, yet when placed in a conjuring- house, he would speedily disengage himself by the aid of two or three familiar spirits, who were attendant on his call. He was instantly taken at his word, and that his exertions might not be without an aim, a capot or great coat was pro- mised as the reward of his success. A conjuring- house hav- ing been erected in the usual form, that is, by sticking four willows in the ground, and tying their tops to a hoop at the height of six or eight feet, he was fettered completely, by winding several fathoms of rope round his body and extremi- ties, and placed in its narrow apartment, not exceeding two feet in diameter. A moose-skin being then tl^rown over tho ^'rame, secluded him from the sight. He forthwith began to TO TNR POLAR S£A. 327 chant a kind of hymn in a very monotonous tone. The rest of the Indians, who seemed in some doubt respecting the powers of a devil when put in competition with those of a white man, ranged themselves around and watched the re- sult with anxiety. Nothing remarkable occurred for a long time. The conjurer continued his song at intervals, and it was occasionally taken up by those without. In this man- ner an hour and a half elapsed; but at length attention, which had begun to flag, was roused by the violent shaking of the conjuring-house. It was instantly whispered round the circle, that at least one devil had crept under the mooie- skin. But it proved to be only the " God-like man" trem- bling with cold. He had entered the lists, stript to the skin, and the thermometer stood very low that evening. His attempts were continued, however, with considerable resolution for half an hour longer, when he reluctantly gave in. He had found no difliculty in slipping through the noose when it was formed by his countrymen ; but, in the present instance, the knot was tied by Governor Williams, who is an expert sailor. After this unsuccessful exhibition, his credit sunk amazingly, and he took the earliest opportunity of sneaking away from the fort. About two years before a conjurer paid more dearly for his temerity. In a quarrel with an Indian he threw out some obscure threats of vengeance, which passed unnoticed at the time, but were afterwards remembered. They met in the sprmg at Carlton House, after passing the winter in diflfer- ent parts of the country, during which the Indian's child died. The conjurer had the folly to boast that he had caused its death, and the enraged father shot him dead on the spot. It may be remarked, however, that both these Indians were inhabitants of the plains, and had been taught, by their in- tercourse with the turbulent Stone Indians, to set but com- paratively little value on the life of a man. During their visits to a post, th6y are suffered to enter every apartment in tlie house, without the least restraint, If ' '> i' i 32H f'RAMKLIN S JOURNB^ unil although articles of value to them nro scattered al)out, nothing is over missed. They scrupulously avoid moviuff any thing from its place, although they are often iironiptcd by curiosity to examine it. In some cases, indeed, thev carry this principle to a degree of self-denial Avhich would hardly be expected. It c.'ie.i happens that meat, which has been paid for, (if the poisonous draught it procures them can be considered as payment,) is left at their lodges until a con- venient opjjortuuity occurs of carrying it away. They will rather pass several days without eating, than touch the moat thus intrusted to their charge, even when there exists a prospect of replaiing it. The hospitality of the Crees is unbounded. They afford a certain asylum to the half-breed children when deserted by their unnatural white fathers ; and the infirm, and indeed every individual in an encampment, share the provisions of a successful hunter as long as they last. Fond too as a Creo is of spirituous liquors, he is not happy unless all his neigh- bours partake with him. It is not easy, however, to say what share ostentation may have in the apparent munificence in the latter article ; for when an Indian, by a good hunt, is enabled to treat the others with a keg of rum, he becomes the chief of a night, assumes no little stateliness of manner, and is treated with deference by those who regale at his ex- pense. Prompted also by the desire of gaining a name, they lavish away the articles they purchase at the trading posts, and are well satisfied if repaid in |)raise. The Cree women are not in general treated harshly by their husbands, and possess considerable influence over them. They often eat, and even get drunk, in consort with the men ; a considerable portion of the labour, however, falls to the lot of the wife. She makes the hat, cooks, dresses the skins, and, for the most part, carries the heaviest load ; but, when she is unable to perform her task, the husband does not consider it beneath his dignity to assist her. Capa- ble as they are of behaving thus kindly, they affect in their To TMK I'OLAR SEA. 389 discourse to despise thu softer sex, and on noleiun occaHions will not sufTer them to eat before them, or even come into their presence. In this tliey ure countenanced by the white residents, most of whom have Indian or half-breed wives, but seem afraid of treating them with the tenderntsss or at- tention due to every female, lest they should themselves be despised by the Indians. At least, this is the only reason they assign for their neglect of those whom they make part- ners of their beds, and mothers of their children. When a hunter marries his first wife, he usually takes up Ills abode in the tent of his father-in-law, and of course hunts for the family ; but when he becomes a father, the fa- milies are at liberty to separate, or remain together, as Ihnir inclinations prompt them. His second wife is, for the most part, sister of the first, but not necessarily so; for an Indian of another family often presses his daughter upon a huiuer whom he knows to be capable of maintaining her well. The lirst wife always remains the mistress of the tent, and as- sumt's an authority over the others, which is not in every case quietly submitted to. It may be remarked, that whilst an Indian resides Mith his wife's family, it is extremely im- proper for his mother-in-law to speak, or even look at him ; and when she has a communication to make, it is the eti- qiiettf that she should turn her back upon him, and address him cnly through the medium of a third person. This singu- lar custom is not very creditable to the Indians, if it really had its origin in the cause which they at present assign for it ; namely, that a woman's speaking to her son-in-law is a sure indication of her having conceived a criminal afiectiou for him. Tattooing is almost universal with the Crees. The wo- men are in general content with having one or two lines drawn from the corners of the mouth towards the angles of (he lower jaw; but some of the men have their bodies co- vered with a great variety of lines and figures. It seems to he considered by most rather as a proof of courage than an P. V. M U u 1;; i]i¥i I'KANKMNH JOUHNKY S fu.\ ornament, the operation being very painful, and, if the fijfiires ure numerous and intricate, lasting several days. The lines on the face are formed by dexterously running an owl under the cuticle, and then drawing a cord, dipt in char- coal and water, through the canal thus formed. The punc- tures on the body ure formed by needles of various sizes sot in a frame. A number of hawk belln altuchcd to this frame, serve, by their noise, to cover the suppressed groans of the sufferer, and, probably for the same reason, the process is accompanied with singing. An indelible stain is produced by rubbing a little finely-powdered willow-charcoal into the punctures. In the month of May, whilst Dr. Richardson was at Carl- ton House, a Creo hunter rt -olved upon dedicating several articles to one of his deities named Kepoochikawn. The ceremony took place in a sweating-house, or, as it may be designated, frpm its more important use, a temple, which was erected for the occasion by the worshipper's two >vive3. It was framed of arched willows, interlaced so as to form a vault capable of containing ten or twelve men, ranged closely side by side, and high enough to admit of their sit- ting erect. It was very similar in shape to an oven, or the kraal of a Hottentot, and was closely covered with moose skinli, except at the east end, which was left open for n door. Near the centre of the building there was a hole in the ground, which contaiued ten or twelve red-hot stones, having a few leaves strewed around them. When the wo- men had completed the preparations, the hunter made his appearance, perfectly naked, carrying in his hand an image of Kepoochikawn, rudely carved, and about two feet long, He placed his god at the upper end of the sweating-house, with his face towards the door, and proceeded to tie round its neck his offerings, consisting of a cotton handkerchief, a looking-glass, a tin pan, a piece of ribband, and a bit of to- bacco, which he had procured the same day, at the expense of fifteen or twenty skins. Whilst he was thus occupied, TO TIIU POLAR SKA. 331 several other Crees, who wore encumpcil in the neighbour- hood, having been informed of wiuit was {;oiiijr on, arrivetl» and, stripping ut tlie door of the temple, entered, nnd runged themselves on cueli hide ; tlio hunter liimseU' squuttod down at the right hand of Kepoochikuwii. The hunter, who throughout olliclated us higli priest, com- menced l)y making a speech to Kepoochikawn, in which ho requested him to be propitious, told him of the value of the things now presented, and cautioned him against ingratitude. This oration was delivered in a monotonous tone, and with great rapidity of utterance, and the speaker retained his squatting posture, but turned his face to his god. At its conclusion, the priest began a hymn, of which the burthen was, " I will walk with God, I will go with the animal;" and, at the end of each stanza, the rest joined in an insigni- ficant chorus. He next took up a calumet, tilled with a mixture of tobacco and bear-berry leaves, and holding its stem by the middle, in a horizontal position, over the hot stones, turned it slowly in a circular manner, following the course of the sun. Its mouth- piece being then with much formality held for a few seconds to the face of Kepoochi- kawn, it was next presented to the earth, having been pre- viously turned a second time over the hot stones; and after- wards, with equal ceremony, pointed in succession to the four quarters of the sky ; then drawing a few whiffs from the calumet himself, he handed it to his left-Land neighbour, by whom it was gravely passed round the circle. When the tobacco was j^xhausted by passing several times round, the hunter made another speech, similar to the former; but was, if possible, still more urgent in his requests. A secoou hymn followed, and a quantity of water being sprinkled on the hot stones, the attendants were ordered to close the temple, which they did, by very carefully covering it up with moose-skins. They continued in the vapour-bath for thurty-iive minutes, during which time a third speech was made, and a hymn was sung, and water occasionally sprin- u u 2 T ] I t ii I ' !jj ,1,' 1 i I ,i I \ '!l .i 332 FRANKLINS JOURNEV kled on the stones, which still retained much heat, as was evident from the hissing noise they made. The coverino's were then thrown o(l", cUkI the poor half-stewed worshippers exposed freely to the air; hut they kept their squattino- pos- tiuos until a fourth speech was made, in which the deity was strongly reminded of the value of the gifts, and exhorted to take an early opportunity of shewing his gratitude. The ce- remony concluded by the sweaters scampering down to the river, and plunging into the stream. It may be remarked, that the door of the temple, and, of course, the face of the god, was turned to the rising sun ; and the spectators were desired not to block up entirely the front of the building, but to leave a lane for the entrance or exit of some influence of which they could not give a correct description. Several Indians, who lay on the outside of the sweating- house as spectators, seemed to regard the proceedings with very lit- tie awe, and were extremely free in the remarks and jokes they passed upon the condition of the sweaters, and even of Kepoochikawn himself. One of them made a remark, that the shawl would have been much better bestowed upon him- self than upon Kepoochikawn, but the same fellow after- wards stripped and joined in the ceremony. Dr. Richardson took an opportunity of asking a com- municative old Indian, of the Blackfoot nation, his opinion of a future state; he replied, that they had heard from their fathers, that the souls of the departed have to scram- ble with great labour up the sides of a steep mountain, upon attaining the summit of which they are rewarded with the prospect of an extensive plain, abounding in all sorts of game, and interspersed here and there with new tents, pitched in agreeable situations. Whilst they are absorbed in the contemplation of this delightful scene, they are de- scried by the inhabitants of the happy land, who, clothed in new skin-dresses, approach and welcome with every de- monstration of kindness those Indians who have led good lives; but the bad Indians, who have imbrued their hands in * ^,i a i. ».' TO THK PUI.AB SKA. im heat, as was Mie coverings A worshippers squivttino; pos- 1 the deity was [1(1 exhorted to tude. The ce- g down to the be remarked, the face of the ;pectators were he building, l)ut »me influence of ption. Several eating-house as gs with \ery lit- [larks and jokes Ejrs, and evenol' ■ a remark, that wed upon him- e fellow aftet- asking a com- [oD, bis opinion liad heard from have to scrara- Iteep mountain, rewarded with |ug in all sorts vith new tents, ly are absorbed B, they are de- |who, clothed in l^ith every de- have led good , their hands in the blood of their countrymen, are told to return from whence they came, and without more ceremony precipitated down the steep sides of the mountain. Women who have been guilty of infanticide, never reach the mountain at all, but are compelled to hover round the seats of their crimes, with branches of trees tied to their legs. The melancholy sounds which are heard in the still summer evenings, and which the ignorance of the white peo- ple consider as the screams of the goat-suckers, are really, according to the old Indian's account, the meanings of these unhappy beings. The Crees have somewhat similar notions, but as they in- habit a country widely different from the mountainous lands of the Blackfoot Indians, the difficulty of their journey lies in walking along a slender and slippery tree, laid as a bridge across a rapid stream of stinking and muddy water. The night owl is regarded by the Crees with the same dread that it has been viewed by other nations. One small species, which is known to them by its melancholy nocturnal hootings, (for as it never appears in the day, few even of the hunters have ever seen it,) is particularly ominous. They call it the cheepai-peethees, or death bird, and never fail to whistle when they hear its note. If it does not reply to the whistle by its hootings, the speedy death of the inquirer is augured. When a Cree dies, that part of his property which he has not given away before his death, is burned with him, and his relations take care to place near the grave little heaps of lire-wood, food, pieces of tobacco, and such things as he is likely to need in his journey. Similar oflerings are made when they revisit the grave, and as kettles, and other arti- cles of value, are sometimes offered, they are frequently carried off by passengers, yet the relaiions are not dis- pleased, provided suffici'''.'': respect has been shewn to the dead, by putting some other article, although of inferior value, in the place of that which has been taken away. The Crees are wont to celebrate the returns of the seasons i ? 334 franklin's journey ml I iii i 'I by religious festivals, but we are unable to describe the ce- remonial in use on these joyous occasions from personal ob- servation. The following brief notice of a feast, which was given by an old Cree chief, according to his annual custom, on the first croaking of the frogs, is drawn up from the in- formation of one of the guests. A large oblong tent, or lodge, was prepared for the important occasion by the men of the party, none of the women being suffered to interfere. It faced the setting sun, and great care was taken that every thing about it should be as neat and clean as possible. Three fire-places were raised within it, at equal distances, and lit- tle holes were dug in the corners, to contain the ashes of their pipes. In a recess, at its upper end, one large image of Kepoochikawn, and many smaller ones, were ranged with their faces towards the door. The food was prepared by the chiers wife, and consisted of marrow pemmican, berries boiled with fat, and various other delicacies that had been preserved for the occasion. The preparations .being completed, and a slave, whom the chief had taken in war, having warned the guests to the feast by the mysterious word peenasheway, they came, dressed out in their best garments, and ranged themselves according to their seniority, the elders seating themselves next the chief at the upper end, and the young men near the door. The chief commenced by addressing his deities in an ap- propriate speech, in which he told them, that he liad has- tened, as soon as summer was indicated by the croaking of the frogs, to solicit their favour for himself and his young men, and hoped that they would send him a pleasant and plentiful season. His oration was concluded by an invoca- tion to all the animals in the land, and a signal being given to the slave at the door, he invited them severally by their names to come and partake of the feast. The Cree chief having by this very general invitation dis- played his unbounded hospitality, next ordered one of the young men to distribute a mess to each of the guests. This TO THB POLAR 8BA. 335 se the ce- jrsonal ob- which was lal custom, om the in- ag tent, or )y the men to interfere, n that every ible. Three ces, and ht- the ashes of large image ! ranged with jpared by the ican, berries bat had been jve, whom the :s to the feast lame, dressed ves according [ves next the ir the door. [ties in an ap- he had has- croaking of id his young pleasant acd by an invoca- il being given srally by their I invitation dis- Id one of the guests. This yfds done in new dishes of birch bark; and the utmost dili* gence was displayed in emptying them, it being considered extremely improper in a man to leave any part of that which is placed before him on such occasions. It is not inconsistent with good manners, however, but rather considered as a piece of poUteness, that a guest who has been too liberally supplied, should hand the surplus to his neighbour. When the viands had disappeared, each filled his calumet and began to smoke with great assiduity, and in the course of the evening several songs were sung to the responsive sounds of the drum, and seeseequay, their usual accompaniments. The Cree drum is double-headed, but possessing very little depth, it strongly resembles a tambourine in shape. Its want of depth is compensated, however, by its diameter, which frequently exceeds three feet. It is covered with moose- skin parchment, and painted with rude figures of men and beasts, having various fantastic additions, and is beat with a stick. The seeseequay is merely a rattle, formed by enclos- ing a few grains of shotm apiece of dried hide. These two instruments are used in all their religious ceremonies, exec pt those which take place in a sweating-house. A Cree places great reliance on his drum, and I cannot ad- duce a stronger instance than that of the poor man who is mentioned in a preceding page, as having lost his only child hy famine, almost within sight of the fort. Notwithstanding Ms exhausted state, he travelled with an enormous drum tied to his back. Many of the Crees make vows to abstain from particular kinds of food, either for a specific time, or for the remainder of their life, esteeming such abstinence t J be a certain means of acquiring some supernatural powers, or at least of entailing upon themselves a succession of good fortune. One of the wives of the Carlton hunter, of whom we have already spoken as the worshipper of Kepoochikawn, made a determination not to eat of the flesh of the Wawaskeesh, or American stag ; but during our abode at that place, she was Jt h . . ,JI II.,, anc. FRANKiuIN/t; /OlRNBY ioduced to feed heartily upon it, through the intentional deceit of her husband, who told her that it was buffalo meat. When she had finished her meal, her husband told her of the trick, and seemed to enjoy the terror with which she contemplated the consequences of the involuntary breach of her vow. Vows of this nature are often made by a Cree before he joins a war party, and they sometimes, like the eastern bonzes, walk for a certain number of days on all fours, or impose upon them- selves some other penance, equally ridiculous. By such means the Cree warrior becomes godlike ; but unless he kills an enemy before his return, his newly-acquired powers are es- timated to be productive in future of some direful consequence to himself. As the party did not witness any of the Cree dances them- selves, it may be remarked, that like the other North Ameri- can nations, they are accustomed to practise that amusement on meeting with strange tribes, before going to war, and on other solemn occasions. The habitual intoxication of the Cumberland House Crees has induced such a disregard of personal appearance, that they are squalid and dirty in the extreme ; hence a minute description of their clothing would be by no means interestina;. The dress of the male consists of a blanket thrown over the shoulders, a leathern shirt or jacket, and apiece of cloth tied round the middle. The women have in addition a long petti- coat ; and both sexes wear a kind of wide hose, which reach- ing from the ankle to the middle of the thigh, are suspended by strings to the girdle. These hose, or as they are termed, Indian stockings, are commonly ornamented with beads or ri- bands, and from their convenience, have been universally adopted by the white residents, as an essential part, ut" their winter clothing. Their shoes, or rather short boots, for they tie round the ankle, are made of soft dressed moose-skins, and during the winter they wrap several pieces of blanket round their feet. They are fond of European articles of dress, considering TO THU POLAR SKA, 837 »na\ deceit t. When ftVie trick, itemplated vow. Vows joins a war !S, walk for upon them- such means he kills an wrers are es- ionsequence lances tliem- [orth Ameri- t amusement ■war, and oil House Crees -arance, that ^ce a minute IS interestins;. own over the •e of cloth tied a long petti- whicli reach- lire suspended y are termed, ^tb beads or ri- ll universally d part of their loots, for they moose-skins, Ls of blanket bs, considering (heir own dress as inferior. — ^Tlie females strive to imitiite the wives of the tradef s, wearing shawls and printed calicoes when they can procure them ; but their custom of using fat (0 grease their hair and faces soon render all these garment* so dirty and filthy, that they lose very soon their original appearance, and send forth an effluvia of a most disagreeable nature. They form a kind" of cradle for their infants, which is ox- treraely suitable for the purpose. It is formed of a bag bedded with bog moss, and may be suspended to a tree, or liiing on the parent's back in the most secure and comfortable manner. It may be profitable to the reader (amidst the many ills he thinks he has to bear), to compare his own state, and the comforts he possesses, with those enjoyed by these poor Indi- ans. The most distressed state of society in Great Britain, is comfort, ease, and security, compared with that of these people. While describing the character of these Indians, the following account of other tribes recited by John Eliot, a missionary, many years among them, may be added. He says, their housing is nothing but a few mats tied about poles fas- tened in the earth; their clothing is but the sl;in of a beast, covering their hind-parts, their fore-parts having but a little apron where nature calls for secresy; their diet has not a greater dainty than their nokehick, that is, a spoonful of parched meal, with a spoonful of water, which will strengthen them to travel a day together ; except we should mention the flesh of deers, bears, moose, rackoons, aud the like, which they have when they can catch them; as also a little fish^ which if they would preserve, it is by drying, not by salt- ing; for they had not a grain of salt in the world, I think, till we hestowed it on them. Their physic includes (excepting a few odd specifics, which some of them encounter certain cases with,) nothing hardly, but a hot-house, or a powaw; their iiot-house is a little cave, eight feet over; where, after they P. V. 15, X X \M 398 FRANKLINS JOURNEY I ^ m l! i. ^ i i f. '1 'I ' "11 have terribly heated it, a crew of them gu sit and sweat, and smoke for an hour together, and then immediately run into some very cold adjacent brook, without the least mis- chief to them. In this way they recover themselves of some diseases; but in most of their dangerous distempers, powaw must be sent for ; that is, a priest, who has more familiarity with satan than his neighbours ; this conjurer comes and roars, and howls, an-d uses magical ceremonies over the sick man, and is well paid for it when he has done. If tltis do not effect the cure, " the man's time is come, and there " is an end." Tliey live in a country full of the best ship-timber under heaven, but never saw a ship till some came from Europe hither ; and then they were scared out of their witd, to see the monster come sailing in, and spitting fire with a mighty noise out of her floating side. They cross the water iu canoes made sometimes of trees which they burn and hew till they have hollowed them ; and sometimes of barks, which they stitch into a light sort of vessel, to be easily carried over land ; if they are over-set, it is but a little pad- ling like a dog, and they are soon where they were. Their way of living is infinitely barbarous : the men are most abominably slothful ; making their poor sqaws, or wives, plant and dress and barn and beat their corn, and build their wigwams for them. In the mean time, their chief employment, when they will condescend unto any, is that of hunting; wherein they will go out some scores, if not hundreds of them in a company, driving all before them. They continue in a place till they have burnt up all the wood thereabouts, and then they pluck up stakes, to follow the wood which they cannot fetch home unto themselves. Hence when they enquire about the English, " why come " they hither ?" they very learnedly determine the case, " It was because they wanted firing." Their division of time is by sleeps, and moons, and win- ters; and by lodging abroad they have soiuewhat observed TO THL POLAR SEA. 339 the motions of the stars; nmong which it has hcen surpris> ing nd they cannot con- ceive but that the fire might be a kin of god, inasmuch as a spark of it will soon produce very strange effects. They believe that when any good or ill happens to them, there is the favour or the anger t^'a god expressed in it ; and hence, as in a time of calamity, they keep a dance, or a day of ex- travagant ridiculous devotions to their god; so in a time of prosperity they likewise have a feast, wherein they also make presents one unto another, Finally^ they believe, that their chief god Kautantomit, made a man and woman of a stone ; which upon dislike, he broke to pieces, and made another man and woman of a tree, which were the fountains of all mankind ; and, that we all have in us immortal souls, which, if we are godly, shall go to a splendid entertainment with Kautantowif ; but otherwise, must wander about in a restless horror for ever. But if you say to them any thing of a resurrection, they will reply upon you, " I shall never " believe it." Eliot saw the Indians using many parables in their dis- courses; much given to anointing their heads ; much de- lighted in dancing, especially after victories ; computing their times by nights and months ; giving dowries for wives, X X 2 1" t!."\:i: I' :<'i. :i 340 I'HANM-I.n's JOLUNIiy ,tl ' t I 1)1 ( t\ ■ ! und causing their wuinen to dwell by themselves at certain seasons, for secret causes ; and accustoming themselves to grievous mournings and yellings for the dead; all which were usual things among the Israelites. They have too a great unkindness lor swine ; but 1 suppose that is be- uauiie our hogs devour the clams, which are a dainty with them. Eliot also saw some learned men looking for the lost Israelites among the Indians in America, and counting that they had good reasons for so doing. And a few small ar- guments, or indeed but conjectures, meeting with a favour- able disposition in the hearer, will carry some conviction with them. He saw likewise the judgments threatened unto the Israelites of old, strangely fulfilled upon the Indi- ans ; particularly that, *' Ye shall eat the flesh of your sons," which is done with exquisite cruelties upon the prisoners that they take from one another in their battles. The first step which Eliot judged necessary to be taken by him, was to learn the Indian language, for he saw them so stupid and senseless, that they would never so much as enquire after the religion of the strangers come into their country, much less would they so far imitate them as to leave oil their way of living, that they might be partakers of any spiritual advantage, unless he could first address thei>; iua language of their own. Me hired a native to teach him, and with a laborious care and skill reduced it into a grammar, which afterwards he published. If their alphabet be short, the words composed of it are long enough to tire the pa- tience of any scholar in the world. One would think they had been growing ever since Babel, unto the dimensions to which they are now extended. For instance, Nummatche- kodtantamuuonyanunnonash, signifies no more in English than, our lusts; and to translate our loves, it must be nothing shorter than Noowomantammooonkanunonnash, We find in all this language there is not the least affinity to, or derivation from any European speech that we are ac- quainted with. This tedious language Eliot quickly be- !' fc.« I'O VUM rOI.AR SUA. 941 at certain inseWcs to , all which have too a l\iat is be- dainty with : fur the lost luitting that >w small ar- th a favuur- e conviction » threatened ton the Indi- if your sons," the prisonets •J to be taken he saw thero X so much as me into theit sin as to leave takers of any rcss thei'i iu a each him, and to a gramtnaf) labet be short, to tire the pa- uUl think they I dimensions to yummatche- lore in English 3s, it must be lUanunonnaih. east affinity to, lat we are w- ot quickly be- came u master of; he employed a witty Indian, who also Hj)uke English well, for his assistance in it ; and compiling 80II1C discourses by his help, he would single out a word, a uoun, a verb, and pursue it through nil its variations. Hav- ing finished his grammar, at the close he writes, *' Prayers « and pains, through faith in Jesus Christ, will do any *' thing !" and being by his prayers and pains thus furnish- ed, he set himself to prench the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ among these desolate outcasts. The North-west Company was formed originally by the merchants of Montreal, who wisely considered that the fur trade might be carried on to those distant parts of the con- tinent, inhabited solely by Inditins, ^vith more security and greater profit, if they joined together in a body, than if they continued to trade separately. The stock of the company was divided into forty shares ; and as the number of mer- chants in the town at that time was not very great, this ar- nihgement afforded an opportunity to every one of them to join in the company if they thought proper. The company principally carries on its trade by means of the Utiiwas or Grand River, that falls into the St. Law- rence about thirty miles above Montreal, and which forms by its confluence with that river, " Le Lac de Deux Mon- " tagnes et le Lac St. Louis," the Luke of the Two Mountains and the Lake of St. Louis, wherein are several large islands. To convey the furs down this river, they make use of canoes, formed of the bark of the birch tree, some of which are upon such a large scale that they are capable of containing two tons, but they seldom put so ituich in them, especially on this river, it being in many places shallow, rapid, and full of rocks, and contains no less than thirty-two portages. These canoes are navigated by the French Canadians, who are particularly fond of the employment, preferring it in general to that of cultivating the ground. A fleet ef them sets off from Montreal about the month of May, laden iii^~ ■11 am ^'' M ' r .' ' ]iri m ■ 1 •r^r ^H m r '■ml i^ ^^ 1' i r- 343 FRANKLINS JOURNBY •f:\ 'I ■■ I', I \\ ■f i I with provisions, consisting chiefly of biscuit nnd salt porl(, sufficient to last tlie crews till their return, nnd also wilii the articles given in barter to tlic InaU pork, aUo with ine of the an merely t\»e deep ait'uls and (\e t\)c ca- leir alioul- rWer. At lire, cook [) upon the lmpi)en8 to iclvcs >vith ll»(rcanopy nket8; they s occBMons, , which t\\ey "•e, wliere the o^> ts of the com- rtain weight, and a particular number is put into each canoo. By know- ini^ tliUH the exact weight of every pack, there can be no eiiibez/.Iement ; and at the portages there is no time wasted in allotting to eacli man his load, every one being obhged to carry ho many packs. At the Grand Portage, and along that immense chain of lakes and rivcr^^ which extend beyond Lake Superior, the company has regular posts, where the agents reside ; and with sucli astonishing enterprize and industry have the affairs of this company been carried on, that trading posts are ciitablisl'.cd witliin (ivc hundred miles of the Pacific Ocean. In the first attempt ivhich Mr. M'Kenzie made to pene- trate to the ocean, he set out early in the spring from the re-> motcst of the posts belonging to the company. lie took with him a single canop, and a party of chosen men ; and after passing over prodigious tracts of land, never before traversed by any white person, at last came to a large river. Here the canoe, which was carried by the men on their shoulders, was launched, and having all embarked, they proceeded down the stream. From the course tiiis river took for a very great distance, INIr. M'Kenzie was led to imagine that it was one of those rivers he was in quest of; namely, one which emptied itself into the Pacific Ocean ; but at the end of several weeks, during which they had worked their way downward with great eagerness, he was convinced, from the gradual inclination of the river towards another quarter, that he must have been mistaken ; and that it was one of those immense rivers, so numerous on the continent ofNortli America, that ran into BafTin's Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. The party was now in a very critical situation; the sea- sun was far advanced, and the length of way which they liad to return was prodigious. If they attempted to go back, and were overtaken by winter, they must in all probability perish for want of provisions in an uninhabited country ; if, on the contrary, they made up their minds to spend the winter '& 'i\ I < 944 rRANKLlN'S JttURNKY ^vliere (hey wer(>, tlicy had no tiino to loso in huildin^ huts, and going out to hunt nnd finh, that they might hnve sufficient stores to support them through that drenry Ncasuii. Mr. M'Kenzie represented the matter, in the most open terms, to liis men, und left it to themselves to determine die part they would talte. The men were lor going hack iit ull hazurds ; and the result was, (liut they reaclieed by the sight of some little articles they had amongst them, that an English vessel had quitted the coast only six weeks before. This was a great mortifi- cation to Mr. M'Kenzie. for had (here been a ship on liie i'O TIIK I'OLAU SKA. 345 . M'Kciiz'n', in U»e Httm« tings, w\>icli lie was ex- mical instru. ,iecc, tivot ho what (litVoreiit lis of liulians ini\n, amongst L t\anger'. l)Ul d wi\l. Fvoffi was a ritpi as far as Onisconsing River, and from that by a portage of three miles get upon Fox River, wliitli falls into Lake Michigan. In the fall of the year these two rivers overflow, and it is then sometimes practicable to pass in a light canoe from one river to the other, witlioiit any portage whatsoever. From Lake Micliigan they get upon Lake Huron, afterwards upon Lake Erie, and so on to tin; St. Lawrence. Before the month of September is over, the furs are uil brought down to Montreal ; as they arrive they are immediately shipped, and the vessels dispatched in Oc- tober, beyond which month it would hti dangerous for them to remain in the river on account of the setting in of winter. The Indians generally go in large parties to hunt bears, and on coming to the place where they suppose these animals arc lurking, they form Jhemselves into a large circle, anci as they advance endeavoor to rouse them. Dogs of a large size ore chosen for beor-huuting ; those most generally pre- tious of tlte e marriages, binding by of an ludiau gliter to the to Montreal , by means ol" ; also brouglil >t. Liiwrence. osts along the ade is open to d by regular Ldded likewise company, aud ble quantities , on their own )arts as remote sissippi. They Aver, and from s River, which year these two iticable to pass ir, witlioutany they get upon nd so on to tin; ber is over, the Ley arrive they ipatched in Oc- jrous for them ig in of winter, to hunt bears, |e these animals ;e circle, anS as fogs of a large geuerally pre- TU I'HE I'OLAR SEA. 349 ferred seem to be of a breed between the blood- hound and the mastiff"; they will follow the scent of the bear, as indeed most field dogs will, but their chief use is to keep the bear at bay wlien wounded, or to follow him if he attempt to make olF whilst the hunter is reloading his gun. Bears will never attempt to attack a man or a dog while they can make their escape, but once wounded, or closely hemmed in, they will light most furiously. The young ones, at sight of a dog, generally take to a tree ; but the old ones, as if conscious ol their ability to fight a dog, and at the same time that they cannot fail of becoming the prey of the hunter if they ascend a tree, never do so, unless indeed they see a hunter coming towards them on horseback, a sight which terrifies them gTcatly. " It is seldom that the white hunters muster together in sufficient numbers to pursue their game as the Indians, says a writer who accompanied a hunting party, but when« ever they have men enough to divide themselves so, they always do it. We proceeded in this manner at Point Abineau, where three or four men are amply sufficient to hem in a bear between the water and the main land. The point was a very favourable place for hunting this year, for the bears, intent upon emigrating to the south, used, on coming «u> .vn from the upper country, to advance to the extreme en \ of the pcint, as if desirous of getting as near as possible by land to the opposite side of the lake, and scarcely a moruiDg came but what one or two of them were found upon r . An ex- perienced hunter can at once discern the track of a bear, deer, or any other large animal, in the woods, and can tell with no small degree of precision how long a time before it was that the animal passed that way. On coming to a long valley, between two of the sand hills on the point, a place through which the bears generally passed in going towards the water, the hunters whom I accompanied at once told how many bears had come down from the upper country the preceding night, and also how many of them were cubs. To the eye of a common observer the track of these animals %i' \ I 350 franklin's journey Ui i'' !. h',ll^! 'J I I ( l-^ h 1 }. amongst the leaves is wholly imperceptible ; indeed, in many instances, even after tlie Imnters had pointed them out to me, I could barely perceive the prints of their feet on the closest inspection; yet the hunters, on coming up to the place, saw these marks with a glance of the eye. After killing a bear, the first care of the hunters is to strip him of his skin. This business is performed by them in a very few minutes, as they always carry knives about them particularly suited for the purpose ; afterwards the carcase is cut up, an operation in which the tomahawk, an instrument that they mostly carry with them also, is particularly useful. The choicest parts of the animal are then selected and carried home, and the rest left in the woods. These Indians hold the paws of the bear in great estimation ; stewed with young puppies, they are served up at all their principal feasts. On killing the animal, the paws are gashed with a knife, and, afterwards, hung over a fire, amidst the smoke, to dry. The skins of the bears are applied to numberless uses, in the country, by the farmers, who set no small value upon them. They are commonly cured by being spread upon a wall or between two trees, before the sun, and in that position scraped with a knife, or piece of iron, daily, which brings out the grease or oil, a very considerable quantity of which oozes from them. Racoon and deer skins, &c. are cured in a similar manner. The Indians have a method of dressing these different skins with the hair on, and of rendering them at the same time as pliable as a piece of cloth; this is prin- cipally effected by rubbing the skins with the hand, in the smoke of a wood fire. Lake Erie is of an elliptical form ; in length about three hundred miles, and in breadth, at the widest part about ninety. The depth of water in tlus lake is not more than twenty fathoms, and in calm weather vessels may securely ride at anchor in any part of it ; but when stormy, the an- chorage in an open part of the lake is not safe, the sands at bottom not being firm, and the anchors apt therefore to loso ' *!ij TO THE POLAR SEA. »51 tlieir hold. Whenever there is a gale of wind the waters immediately become turbid, owing to the quantity of yellow sand that is washed up from the bottom of the lake ; in calm weather the water is clear, and of a deep greenish colour. The northern shore of the lake is very rocky, as likewise are the shores of the islands, of which there are several clus- ters towards the western extremity of the lake ; bn along most parts of the southern shore is a fine gravelly beach. The height of the hind bordering on the lake is very unequal, in some places long ranges of steep mountains rise from the very edge of the water; in others the shores are so flat and so low, that when the lake is raised a little above its usual level, in consequence of a strong gale of wind setting in towards the shore, the country is deluged for miles." A young gentleman, who was sent in a bateau with dis- patches across the lake, not long previous to the writing this account, perished, with several of his party, owing to an inundation of this sort that took place on a low part of the shore. It must here be observed, that when you navigate the lake in a bateau, it is customary to keep as close as pos- sible to the land ; and when there is any dangeif of a storm you run the vessel on shore, which may be done with safety, as the bottom of it is perfectly flat. The young gentleman alluded to was masting along, when a violent storm suddenly arose. The bateau was instantaneously turned towards the shore; unfortunately, however, in running her upon the beach some mismanagement took place, and she overset. The waves had already begun to break in upon the shore with prodigious impetuosity ; each one of them rolled farther in than the preceding one; the party took alarm, and instead of making as strenuous exertions as it was supposed they might have made, to right the bateau, they took a few necessaries out of her, and attempted to save themselves by flight;- but so rapidly did the water flow after them, in consequence of the increasing storm, that before they could proceed far enough up the country to gain a place of safety, they were all over- I i' ,J ( :' */■ jj ' I 362 PRANKLm't JOURNBY whelmed by it, two alone excepted, who had the presence of mind and ability to climb a lofty tree. To the very great irregularity of the height of the lands on both sides of it, is attributed the frequency of storms on Lake Erie. The shores of Lake Ontario are lower and more uniform than those of any of the other lakes ; and that lake is the most tranquil of any, as has already been noticed. There is a great deficiency of good harbours along the shores of £!)is Lake. On its northern side there are but two places which afford shelter to vessels drawing more than seven feet water, namely Long Point and Point Abineau ; and these only afford a partial shelter. If the wind should shift to the southward whilst vessels happen to be lying under them, tliey are thereby exposed to all the dangers of a rocky lee shore. On the southern shore, thci first harboiir you come to in goinjr from Fort Erie, is that of Presqu' Isle. Vessels drawing eight feet water may there ride in perfect safety ; but it is a matter of no small difficulty to get into the harbour, owing to a long sand bar which extends across the mouth of it. Presqu' Isle is situated at the distance of about sixty miles from Fort Erie. Beyond this, nearly midway between the eastern and western extremities of the lake, there is another harbour, capable of containing small vessels, at the mouth of Cayahega River, and another at the mouth of Sandusky River, which falls into the lake within the north and western territory of the States. It is very seldom that any of these harbours are made use of by the British ships; they, indeed, trade almost solely betwee . Fort T!rie and Detroit River} and when in prosecuting their voyages they cb^xnce to meet with contrary winds, againsl v;hichthey cannot make head, they for the most part return to Fort Erie, if bound to Detroit River; or to some of the bays amid.«^. tlie clusters of islands situated towards the western territory *" the lake. It very often hap- pens that vessels, even after they have got close under these islands, the nearest of which is not less than two hundred and forty miles from Fort Erie, are driven back bv storms ence of ry great of it, is le shores those of inqui\ of long the J but two tian seven and these [lift to the hem, they lee shore. to in goins wing eight is a matter g to a long •resqu' Isle Fort Erie. nd western capable of ,ga River, jwhich falls fory of the rbours are [ade almost id when in th contrary ley for the toit Kiver; (ds situated often hap- nder these o hundred bv storms TO THB POLAR SEA. 953 the whole way to that fort, and it is not without very great difficulty that they can keep their station. It is seldom that vessels bound from Fort Erie to any place on Detroit River, accomplish their voyage without stopping amongst these islands; for the same wind favourable for carrying them from the eastern to the western extremity of the lake will not waft them up the river. The river runs nearly in a south- west direction; its current is very strong; and unless the wind blows fresh, and nearly in the opposite direction to it, you cannot proceed. The navigation of Lake Erie, in general, is very uncertain ; and passengers that cross it in any of the King's or principal merchant vessels, are not only called upon to pay double the sum for their passage, demanded for that across Lake Ontario, but anchorage money besides, that is, a certain sum per diem as long as the vessel remains wind bcund at anchor in any harbour. The anchorage money is about three dollars per day for each cabin passenger. The islands at the western end of the lake, which are of various sizes, lie very close to each other, and the scenery iimongst them is very pleasing. The largest of them are not more than fourteen miles in circumference, and many would scarcely be found to admeasure as many yards round. They are all covered with wood of some kind or other, even to the very smallest. The larger islands produce a variety of fine timber, amongst which are found oaks, hiccory trees, and red cedars; the latter grow to a much larger size than in any part of the neighbouring country, and they are sent for even from the British settlements on Detroit River, forty miles distant. None of these islands are much elevated above the lake, nor are they diversified with any rising grounds ; most of them, indeed, are as flat as if they had bean overflowed with water, and in the interior parts of some of the largest of them there are extensive ponds and marshes. The fine timber, which these islands produce, indicates that the soil I must bo uncommonly fertile. Here are found in great num- P, V. 15 Z z I ^1 ;,u kS ^^' W0^ 354 franklin's journey bers, amonn'st the woods, racoons and squirrels; bears arc also at times found upon some of the islands during the winter season, when the hike is frozen between tlie main land and the islands; but they do not remain continually, as the other animals do. All the islands are dreadfully infested with serpents, and on some of them rattlesnakes are so nu- merous, that in the height of summer it is really dangerous to land. There are two kinds of rattlesnakes found in this part of the country, — one of these rattlesnakes is of i deep brown colour, clouded with yellow, and is seldom n, t with more than thirty inches in length. It usually frequents marshes and low meadows, where it does great mischief amongst cattle, which it bites mostly in the lips as they are grazinEr. The other sort is of a greenish yellow colour, clouded with brown, and attains nearly twice the size of the other. It is most commonly found between three and four feet in length, and as thick as the wrist of a large man. The rattlesnake is much thicker in proportion to its length than any other snake, and it is thickest in the middle of the body, which ap- proaches somewhat to a triangular form, the belly being Hat, and the back bone rising higher than any other part oC the animal. The rattle, with which this r.erpent is provided, is at the end of the tail ; it is usually about half an inch in breadth, one quarter of an inch in thickness, and each joint about half an inch long. The joint consists of a. number oi little cases of a dry horny substance, inclosed one within another, and not only the outermost of these little cases ar- ticulates with the outermost case of the contiguous joint, but each case, even to the smallest one of all, at the inside, is connected by a sort of joint with the corresponding case in the next joint of the rattle. The little cases or shells He very loosely within one another, and the noise proceeds from their dry and hard roats striking one against the other. It is said that the animal gains a fresh joint to its rattle everv TO TUB POLAR SEA. 355 year ; this, however, is doubted, for tlie largest snaltcs are frequently found to have tlie fewest joints to their rattles. A medical gentleman in the neighbourhood of Newmarket, behind the Blue Mountains, in Virginia, had a rattle in his possession, which contained no less than thirty-two joints ; yet the snake from which it was taken scarcely admeasured five feet; rattlesnakes, however, of the same kind, and in the same part of the country, have been found of a greater length with not more than ten rattles. One of these snakes, killed on Buss Island, in Lake Erie, had no more than four joints in its rattle, and yet was nearly four feet long. The skin of the rattlesnake, when the animal is wounded, or otherwise enraged, exhibits a variety of beautiful tints, never seen at any other time. It is not with the teeth which the rattlesnake uses for ordinary purposes that it strikes its enemy, but with two long crooked fangs in the upper jaw, which point down the throat. When about to use these fangs, it rears itself up as much as possible, throws back its head, drops its under jaw, and springing forwaird upon its tail, endeavours to hook itself as it were upon its enemy. In order to raise itself on its tail, it coils itself up previously in a spiral line, with the head in the middle. It cannot spring farther forward than about half its own length. The flesh of the rattlesnake is as white as the most delicate fish, and is much esteemed by those who are not prevented Ironi tasting it by prejudice. The soup made from it is said to be delicious, and very nourishing. The exuviae of these snakes, is, in the opinion of the country people of Upper Canada, very efficacious in the cure of the rheumatism, when laid over the part afflicted, and fastened down with a bandage. The body of the rattlesnake dried to a cinder over the fire, and then f?nely pulverised, and infused in a ce'-tain portion of brandy, is also said to be a never failing remedy against that disorder. The liquor is taken inwardly, iu the quantity of a wine glass full at once, z z2 r ♦ r> I T i I m^^^ * V. i t li!" ^? ^ "*i '/«■;■ %(» FRANKIilNS JOURNMY about three times a day. No effect, more than fun tukinx plain brandy, is perceived from takinqr this medicine on the first day, but at the end of the cond day the body of tlio patient becomes suffused with a - >h\ sweat, every one of his joints groM' painful, an' his limbs ijccomo feeble, and scarcely able to suj)port hin» ; he grows worse and worse for a day or (wo; but persevt'rinsy in the use of the medicine fi r a few days, he graUuiilly loses his pains, and recovers his vontcd sf rength of body. Many found on these islands in Lake Erie. Mr. Carver tells of a serper.t that is peculiar to these islands, called the hissiiii; siiake: "It is," says he, "of the small speckled kind, and about eighteen inches long. When any thing approaches it, it flattens itself in a moment, and its spots, which arc of various dyes, become visibly brighter through rage; at the same time it blows from its mouth with great force a subtile wind tft;it is reported to be of a nauseous smell, and if drawn in witl) the breath of the unwary traveller, will infallibly biinsj^ on a decline, that in a few months must prove mortal, there being no remedy yet discovered which can counteract its baneful influence." Were a traveller to believe all the stories respecting snakes that are current in the country, he must believe that there is such a snake as the whip snake, which, it is said, pursues cattle through the woods and mea- dows, lashing them with its tail, till overcome with the fatigue of running they drop breathless to the ground, when it preys upon their flesh ; he must also believe that there is such a snake as the hoop snake, which has the power of fix- ing its tail firmly in a certain cavity inside of its mouth, and of rolling itself forward like a hoop or wheel, with such won- derful velocity that neither man nor beast can possibly escape from its devouring jaws. The ponds and marshes in the interior parts of these islands abound with ducks and other wild fowl, and the shores TO THE POLAR HUA. n:)7 Rwnrni with gulls. A fow small birds ari' found in the woods; noiiP amongst thorn are remarkiibie either for their song or pliimiitje. On tlio east side of Detroit River is the town of Maiden, where there are extensive ranges of store-houst's, for re- ception of resents yearly made by the British govtMnment to the Indians in this part of the country, in whii «< v«ral clerks are kept constantly oniphtyed. The following lOt is given by one ongageti on the occasion. A lumiMir of chiefs of different tribes assembled at the place ai)|)ointed by the head of the department in this quarter, and gave each a bundle of little bits of cedar wood, about the thickness of a small pocket book pencil, to remind him of the exact num- ber of individuals in each tribe that expected to share tlie bounty of their great Father. The sticks in these bundles were of different lengths, the longest denoted the number of warriors in the tribe, the next in size the number of women, and the smallest the number of children. On receiving them he handed them over to his clerks, who made a memorandum in their books of the contents of each bundle, and of the persons that gave them, in order to prepare the presents ac- cordingly. The day fixed upon for the delivery of the pre- sents was bright and fair, and being in every respect favour- able for the purpose, the clerks began to make the necessary arrangements accordingly. A number of large stakes were first fixed down in different parts of the lawn, to each of which was attached a label, with the name of the tribe, and the number of persons in it, who were to be provided for; then were brought out from the stores several bales of thick blankets, of blue, scarlet, and brown cloth, and of coarse figured cottons, together with large rolls of tobacco, guns, flints, powder, balls, shot, case- knives, ivory and horn combs, looking-glasses, pipe-toma- hawks, hatchets, scissars, needles, vermillion in bags, copper and iron pots and kettles, the whole valued at about 500/. mm n I , I i I r '1, i >!ii IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /, ^ .^% ^"J^.^^ 1.0 1.1 b; |2B |2.5 |50 ''^" HHH l^iiia I 1^ III 2.0 m 1 1.25 II U 111 1.6 ^ 6" ► V] <^ ^^.^v ^ ^%' / ^^? ">^^./ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 (716) S72-4503 ? \% ''^.V 4^ j' y This speech was delivered in English, but interpreters at- tended, who repeated it to the different tribes in their re- spective languages, paragraph by paragraph, at the end of every one of which the Indians signified their satisfaction by a loud coarse exclamation of " Hoah ! Hoah !" The speech ended, the chiefs were called forward, and their several heaps were shewn to them, and committed to the^ care. They received them with thanks, and beckoning to their warriors, a number of young men quickly started from the crowd, and in less than three minutes the present were con- veyed firom the lawn, and laden on board the cavocs, in wait- ing to convey them away. The utmost regularity and pro- priety was manifested on this occasion in tbe behaviour of every Indian ; there was not the smallest wrangling amongst them about their presents ; nor was the least spark of jea- lousy observable in any one tribe about what the other had received ; each one took up the heap allofted to it, and de- parted without speaking a word. The presents delivered to the Indians, together with the salaries of the officers in the Indian department, are com- puted to cost the crown about 100,000/. sterling, on an aver- age, per annum. When we first gained possession of Canada, theexpence of the presents was much greater, as the Indians were then more numerous, and as it was also found necessary to bestow upon them, individually, much larger presents than are now given, in order to overcome the violent prejudices which had been instilled into their minds by the French. These prejudices having happily been removed, and the ut- most harmony having been established between them and the people on the frontiers, presents of a less value even than what are now distributed amongst them, would perhaps be found sufficient to keep up the good understanding which now subsists ; it could not, however, be deemed a very advisable 'if^ •*^' IM: 800 franklin's journby Ir measure to curtail tliem, as long as a possibility remained that the loss of their friendship might be incurred thereby. Acceptable presents are generally found eificacioua in Qonciliating the affections of any uncivilized nation ; they have very great influence over the minds of the Indians ; but to conciliate their affections to the utmost, presents alone are not sufficient; you must appear to have their interest at heart in every respect; you must associate with them; you must treat them as men that are your equals, and, in some measure, even adopt their native manners. In general the skin of the Indians is of a copper cast, but a most wonderful difference of colQur is observable amongst them; some, in whose veins there is no reason to think that any other than Indian blood flows, not having darker com- plexions than natives of the south of France or of Spam, whilst others, oi| the contrary are nearly as black as negroes. Many persons, whose long residence amongst the Indians ought to have made them competent judges of the matter, have been of opimon, that their natural colour does not vary from ours; and tba( the darkness of their complexion arises wholly from their anointing themselves so frequently with unctuous substancei, and from their exposing themselves so much to the smoke. ■ But although it is certain that they think a dark complexion very becoming ; that they take great pains from their earliest age to acquire such an one ; and that many of them do, in process of time, contrive to vary their original colour very considerably ; although it is certain like- wise, that when first bom their colour differs but little from ours; yet it appears evident to me, the greater part of them are indebted for their differem tiues to nature alone. The writer has been induced to form this opinion from the consideration, that those children which are born of parents of a dark colour are almost universally of the same dark cast as those from whom they sprang. Nekig, that is, the lattle Otter, an Ottoway chief of great notoriety, whose village is on Detroit River, has a complexion that differs TO THE POLAR SEA. 361 ipper cast, but vable amongst n to think that r darker oom- B or of Spain, ack as negroes, gst ihe Indians 1 of the matter, ir does not vary mplexion arises frequently witli themselves so ■ertain that they [t they take great in one; and that ^ve to vary their Lt is certain like- but little from greater part of to nature alone. .pinion from the are born of Isally of the same Nekig, that is, [notoriety, whose sxion that differs but little from that of an African, and his little boys, who are the very image of the father, are just as black as himself. With regard to Indian children being white on their first coming into the world, it ought by no means to be concluded from thence, that they would remain so if their mothers did not bedaub them with grease, herbs, &c. as it is well known that negro children are not perfectly black when bom, nor indeed for many months afterwards, but that they acquire their jetty hue gradually, on being exposed to the air and sun, just as in the vegetable world the tender blade, on first peeping above ground, turns from a white to a pale greenish colour, and afterwards to a deeper green. Though the Mississaguis, who live about Lake Ontario, are of a much darker cast than any other tribe of Indians, yet the different shades of complexion observable amongst the Indians are not so much confined to particular tribes as to particular families; for even amongst the Mississaguis several men were copiparatively of a very light colour. The Creeks, Cherokees, and other southern Indians, have a red- der tirige, and more warmth of colo'uring in it than that of the Indians in the neighbourhood of the lakes. Amongst the female Indians in general, there is a much greater sameness ^f colour than amongst the men. The In- dians universally have long, straight, black, coarse hair, and black eyes, rather small than full sized; they have, in general, also, high prominent cheek bones, and sharp small noses, rather inclining to an aquiline shape ; they have good teeth, and their breath, in general, is as sweet as that of a human being can be. The men are for the most part very well made, it is a most rare circumstance to meet with a deformed person anlongst them: they are remarkably straight, have full open chests, their walk is firm and erect, and many amongst them have really a dignified deportment. Very few of them are under the middle stature, and none of them ever become very fat or corpulent. You may occasionally see j amongst them stout robust men, closely put together, but m P. V. 10. AAA II r iijn V ' hill' IW' 302 FRANKLIN*.^ iOURNBY %'l \!* p^eneral they are but slightly made. Their legs, arms, and hands, are for the most part, extremely yteW shaped ; and very many amongst them would be deemed handsome men ID any country in the world. The women, on the contrary, are mostly under the middle size, and have higher cheek bones, and rounder faces than the men. They have very ungraceful carriages ; walk with their toes turned considerably inwards, and with a shuffling gait , and as they' advance in years they grow remarkably fat and coarse. An Indian woman at the age of thirty, her eyes are sunk, her forehead wrinkled, her skin loose and shrivelled, and her whole person, in«8hort, forbidding; yet, when young, their faces and persons are really pleasing, not to say sometimes very captivating. One could hardly imagine, without witnessing it, that a few years could pos- sibly make such an alteration as it does in their persons. This sudden change is chiefly owing to the drudgery im- posed on them by the men after a certain age ; to their ex- posing themselves so much to the burning rays of the sun; sitting so continually in the smoke of wood fires; and, above all, to the general custom of of prostituting themselves at a very early age. Though the Indians are profusely furnished with hair on their heads, yet on none of the other parts of the body, usually covered with it, is the smallest sign of hair visible, except, indeed, on the chins of old men, where a ftw slender st;ag- gling hairs are sometimes seen, not different from what may be occasionslly seen on women of a certain age in Europe. Many persons have supposed that the Indians have been created without hair on those parts of the body where it appears wanting ; others, on the contrary, are of opinion, that nature has not been less bountiful to them than to us; and that this apparent deficiency of hair is wholly owing to their plucking it out themselves by the roots, as soon as it appears above the skin. It is well known, indeed, that the Indians liave a great dislike to hair, and that such of the r-iAM TO THB POLAR SUA. 363 men os are nmbitiuus of appearing gayer than tite rest, pluck it not only from their eye- brows, and eye-lashes, but also from every part of the head, except one spot on the back part of the crown, where they leave a long look. Tot pluck out their hair, all such as have any connection with the traders make use of a pliable worm, formed of flattened brass wire. This instrument is closely applied^ in its open state, to the surface of the body where the hair grows, it is then compressed by the finger and thumb ; a great number of hairs are caught at once between the spiral evolutions of the wire, and by a sudden twitch they are all drawn out by the roots. An old squaw, with one of these instruments, would deprive you of your beard in a very few minutes, and a slight application of the worm two or three times in the year would be sufficient to keep your chin smooth ever afterwards. A very great number of the white people, in the neighbourhood of 3Ialden and Detroit, from having submitted to this operation, appear at first sight as little Indebted to nature for beards as the Indians. The opei;ation is painful, but it is soon over, and when one con- aiders how much time and trouble 4s saved, and ease gained by it in the end, it is only surprising that more people do not summon up resolution, and patiently submit to it. The long lock of hair on the top of the head, with the skin on which it grows, constitutes the true scalp ; and in scalping a person that has a full head of hair, an experi- enced warrior never thinks of taking off more of the skin than a bit of about the size of a crown piece, from the part of the head where this lock is usually left. They ornament this solitary lock of hair with beads, silver trinkets, &c. and on grand occasions with feathers. The women do not pluck any of the hair from off their heads, and pride them- selves upon having it as long as possible. They commonly wear it neatly platted up behind, and divided in front in the middle of the forehead. When they wish to appear finer than usual) they paint the small part of the skin, which ap- A A A 2 -f: H tj. f fi i^ < i-J: rnu fuanklinV jouknky ■ Ij Ir 1 'V pears on the separation of the hair, with a streak of ver- milipn ; when neatly done, it looks extremely well, and forms a pleasing contrast to the jetty black of their hair. The Indians, who have any dealings with the English or American traders, and all of them have that live in the neighbourhood of the great lakes at the north-west, have totally laid aside the use of furs and skins in their dress, ex- cept for their shoes or moccasins, and sometimes for their lejrgings, its they find they can exchange them to advantage for blankets and woollen cloths, &c. which they c.-nsider likewise as much more agreeable and commodious materials for wearing apparel. The moccasin is made of the skin of the deer, elk, or buffalo, which is commonly dressed without the hair, and rendered of a deep brown colour by being ex- posed to the smoke of a wood fire. It is formed of a single piece of leather, willi a seam from the toe to the instep, and nnother behind, similar to that in a common shoe; by means of a thong, it is fastened round the instep, just under the ankle-bone, and is thus made to sit very closely to the foot. Round that part where the foot is put in, a flap of the depth of an inch or two is left, which bangs loosely down over the string by which the moccasin is fastened ; and this flap, as also the seam, are tastefully ornamented with porcupine quills and beads ; the flap is edged with tin or copper tags filled with scarlet hair, if the moccasin be intended for a man, and with ribbands if for a woman. An ornamented moccasin of this sort is only worn in dress, as the ornaments are expensive and the leather soon wears out ; one of plain leather answers for ordinary use. Many of the white people on the Indian frontiers wear this kind of shoe, but a person not accustomed to walk in it, or to walk barefoot, cannot wear it abroad, on a rough road, without great inconvenience, as every unevenness of surface is felt through the leather, which is soft and pliable : in a house it is the most agree' able sort of shoo that can be imagined ; the Indians wear it universally. TO TUB POLAR SKA. .165 Ircak of ver- ily well, and their hair. I the English at live in the rth'West, have leir iireaa, ex- imes for their \ to advantage they c>;n8ider ilious materialii I of the skin of Ireased without Lir bf being ex- •med of a single the instep, and ilioe ; by means ju»t under the isely to the foot, [lap of the depth y down over the ind this flap, as with porcupine n or wopper tags intended for a An ornamented s the ornaments ■t ; one of plain be white people •e, but a person larefoot, cannot t inconvenience, igh the leather, ihe most agree- Indians wear it Above the moccasin all tlic Indians wear what are Mlled leggings, which reach from the instep to the middle of the thigh. They are commonly made of blue or scarlet cloth, and are formed so as to sit close to the limbs, like the mo- dern pantaloons ; but the edges of the cloth annexed to the 8Mm, instead of being turned in, are left on the outside, and are ornamented with beads, ribbands, &c. when the leggings are intended for dress. Many of the young war- fiors are so desirous that their leggings should fit them neatly, that they make the squaws, who are the tailors, and really very good ones, sow them tight on their limbs, so that they cannot be taken off, and they continue to wear them constantly till they are reduced to rags. The leggings are kept up by means of two strings, one on the outside of each thigh, which are fastened to a third, that is tied round the waist. Tbey also wear round the waist another string, from which are suspended two little aprons, somewhat more than a foot square, one hanging down before and the other be- hind, and under tliese a piece of cloth, drawn close up to the body between the legs, forming a sort of truss. The •prons and this piece of cloth, which are all fastened together, are called the breech cloth. The utmost ingenuity of the squaws is exerted in adorning the little aprons with beads, ribbands, &c. The moccasins, leggings, and breech cloth constitute the whole of the dress which they wear when they enter upon a campaign^ except indeed it be a girdle, from which bangs their tobacco pouch and scalping knife, &c. ; nor do they wear any thing more when the weather is very warm ; but when it is cool, or when they dress themselves to visit their friends, they put on a short shirt, loose at the neck and wrists, generally made of coarse figured cotton or calico of some gaudy pattern, not unlike what would be used for window or bed curtains at a common inn in England. Over .„ -l'. ■«*■ J 966 franklin's journey the shirt they wear eitlier a blanket, a large piece of broad oloth, or else a loose coat made somewhat similar to a common riding frock ; a blanket is more commonly worn than any thing else. They tic one end of it round their waist with a girdle, and then drawing it over their shoulders, cither fasten it across their breasts with a skewer, or hold the corners of it together in the left hand. One would imagine, that this last mode of wearing it could not but be highly inconvenient to them, as it must deprive them in a great measure of the use of one hand ; yet it is the mode in which ,it is commonly worn, even when they are shooting in the woods ; they generally, however, keep the right arm disengaged when they carry a gun, and draw the blanket over the left shoulder. The dress of the women differs but very little from that of the men. They wear moccasins, leggings, and loote short shirts, and like them they throw over their shoulders, occasionally, a blanket or piece of broad cloth, but most generally the latter ; they do not tie it round their waist, however, but suffer it to hang down so as to hide their legs; instead also of the breech cloth, they wear a piece of cloth folded closely round their middle, which reaches from the waist to the knees« Dark blue or green cloths in general are preferred to those of any other colour; a few of the men are fond of wearing scarlet. The women in warm weather appear in the villages with- out any other covering above their waists than these shirts, or shifts, as they may be called, though they differ in no respect from the shirts of the men ; they usually, however, fasten them with a broach round the neck. In full dress they also appear in these shirts, but then they are covered entirely over with silver broaches, about the size of a six- penny piece. In full dress they likewise fasten pieces of ribbands of various colours to their hair behind, wliich are Suffered to hang down to their very heels. or bracelet, to which is Attached a bunch of hair dy4>(l of a ■oarlet colour, usnally taken from the knee of a buffalo. TIhh ia worn on the narrow part of the arm abote the elbow, and it is deemed very ornamental, and also a badge of honour, for no person wean it that has not distinguished himself in the iieid. Silver ornaments are universally preferred to those of any other metal. f i > < i n- The Indians not only paint themselves when they go to war, but likewise when they wish to appear full dressed. Red and black are their favourite colours, and they daub themselves in the roost fantastic manner. Some have their faces entirely covered with black, except a round spot iit the centre, which included the upper lip and end of tlie nose, which was painted red; others again, have their heads entirely black, except a large red round spot on eaeh ear; others with one eye black and the other red, &c.; but the most common style of painting was, to black their faces entirely over with charcoal, and then wetting t'leir nails, to draw parallel undulating lines on their cheeks. They generally carry a little looking glass about them to enable them to dispose of their colours judiciously. When they go to war tbey rub in the paint with grease, and are mucb nwre particular about their appearance, which they study to reader as horrible as possible ; they then cover their wliole body with red, white, and black paint, and seem more like devils than human beings. Different tribes have differ- ent tnelhods of painting them&elves. ■ Though the Indians spend so much of their time in adorn- ing their persons, yet they take no pains to ornament their habitations, which for the most part are wretched indeed. Some of them are formed of logs, but the greater part are of a moveable nature, and formed of bark. The bark of the birch tree is deemed preferable to every otiier sort, and where it is to be had is always made use of; but in this part '" THK POLAR SKA. 309 of (ho country not boin. «ft •I'Wlng i< from a Iree- n„H f"' ','"' "" ""y "!«" ... '«. off .!.» .™„k i„ 'onr^r'"'.'"^" "-»«re """' tal. con,i,t of .lender pole, .,!d „ ,* ""''"°°" °f "•«' «n«f »Hh ..rip, of ,|,.,C •„"?„; " "" ''°'-'' " <■»«• if f»"d, prove. . «r.e2 ' " If ' '"""» "-"^ "»'. ..»..» ever, ,1,1., ,,„„„ " d J^ ,"""" °"'"™ ''««« of (I., roof, olher. .re „1 o„ ° "°"''' '" "■» "■'''■"« '»* 'l.e.o hu., are ale fcf f ,. '"''''"'• '" «»• V- ■«■ pLcd overhead hand warmer i„ He wi„,e" « °" 7 "•"""■"f""- >»b.ereo.od,.,,h.,,j.J'' '""» "'"" "^ "tber, ,1,., h« unoomforlable ''"' "" """ •' ftf from h'«<..«) from .hem 1 ,/!'■' '""*"'• "- 't «be. flil m^ 370 franklin's journey ^■m ■;u a few wooden spoons and dishes made by themselves, cou< stitute in general the whole of them. A stone of a very soft texture, called the soap stone, is very commonly fouiul in the back parts of North America, particularly suited for Indian workmanship. It receives its name from oppearing to the touch as soft and smooth as a bit of soap ; and indeed it may be cut with a knife almost equally easy. In Virginia they use it powdered for the boxes of their wheels instead of grease. Soft, however, as is this stone, it will resist fire equally with iron. The soap stone is of a dove colour; others, nearly of the same quality, are found in the country, of a black and red colour, which are still commonly used by the Ihdians for the bowls of their pipes. The bark canoes, which the Indians use in this part of the country, are by no means so neatly formed as those made in the country upon, and to the north of the River St. Lawrence; they are commonly formed of one entire piece of elm bark, taken from the trunk of the tree, which is bound on ribs formed of slender rods of tough wood. There are no ribs, however, at the ends of these canoes, but merely at the middle part, where alone it is that passengers ever sit. It is only the center, indeed, which rests upon the vrater; the ends are generally raised some feet above the surface, the canoes being of a curved form. They bring them into this shape by cutting, nearly midway between the stem and stern, two deep slits, one on each side, in the back, and by lapping the disjointed edges one over the other. No pains nre taken to make the ends of the canoes water tiglit, since they never touch the water. On first inspection you would imagine, from its miserable appearance, that an elm bark canoe, thus constructed, was not calculated to carry even a single person safely across a smooth piece of water; it is ncvi'rtheless a remarkable safe sort of boat, and the Indians will resolutely embark in one of them during very rough weather. They are so light that they ride securely over every wave, and the only precaution TO THB POLAR 8EA. 371 necessary in navigating them is totiit steady* A dozen people will go securely in one, which might be easily carried by a single able-bodied man. When an Indian takes his family to any distance in a canoe, the women, the girls, and boys, are furnished each with a paddle, and are kept busily at work ; the father of the family gives himself no trouble but in. steering the vessel. Tbe Indians that are connected with the traders have now, very generally, laid aside bows and arrows, and seldom take (hem into their hands, except it be to amuse themselves for a few hours, when they have expended their powder and shot; their boys, however, still use them universally, and some of them shoot with wonderful dexterity. A young Sbawnese chief, not more than ten years old, fixed three arrows running in the body of a small black squirrel, on* the top of a very small tree, and he scarcely missed half a dozen times in a day. It is astonishing to see with what accuracy, and at the same tiice with what readiness, they nark the spot where their arrows fall. They will shoot away a dozen arrows or more, seemingly quite careless about what becomes of them, and as inattentive to the spot where they fall as if they never expected to find them again, yet afterwards they will run and pick them every one up without hesitation. The southern Indians are much more expert at the use of the bow than those near the lakes, as they make much greater use of it. The expertness of the Indians in throwing the tomahawk is well known. At the distance of ten yards they will fix the sharp edge of it in an object nearly to a certainty. They are not fond of letting it out of their hands in action, and they never attempt to throw it but when they are on the point of overtaking a 6ying foe, or are certain of recovering 11. Some of them will fasten a string the length of a few feet to the tomahawk, and will launch it forth, and draw it back again into their hand with great dexterity j they wil D B b2 i- '. li ) liM f 1 * i; f 1 372 KRANKLlN'kt JOUllNUY ^■i / Ml' If. 374 franklin's juurnbt » ;i /: !f cumbered with a load, is astonishing. A young Wyandot who waa employed to carry a message, travelled but little ^hort of eighty miles on foot in one day, and when he arrived at the end of his journey, he did not appear in the least de- gree fatigued. ■:,.: ,' Le P. Charlevoix observes, that the Indians seem to him to possess many personal advantages over Europeans ; their senses, in particular, he thinks much finer; their sight ig, indeed, quick and penetrating, and it does not fail them till they are far advanced in years, notwiths.tanding that their eyes are exposed so many months each winter to the daz- zling whiteness of the snow, and to the sharp irritating smoke of wood fires. Disorders in the eyes are almost wholly un- known to them; nor is the slightest blemish ever seen in their eyes, excepting it be a result from some accident. Their hearing is very acute, and their sense of smelling so nice, that they can tell when they are approaching a fire long before it is in sight. The Indians have most retentive memories; they will preserve to their deaths a recollection of any place they have once passed through ; they never forget a face that they have attentively observed but for a few seconds ; at the end of many years they will repeat every sentence of the speeches that have been delivered by diil'erent individuals in a public assembly; and has any speech been made in the council house of the nation, particularly deserving of remembrance, it will be handed down with the utmost accuracy from one generation to another, though perfectly ignorant of the use of hieroglyphicks and letters ; the only memorials of which they avail themselves are small pieces of wood, and belts of wampum ; the former are only used on trifling occasions, the latter never but on very grand and solema ones. Whenever a conference, or a talk as they term it, is about to be held with any neighbouring tribe, or whenever any treaty or national compact is about to be made, one of these belts, differing in some respects from every other that ha-s been i>i 'm a TO THE POLAR SEA. 375 made before, is immediately constructed ; each person in the assembly holds this belt in his hand whilst he delivers his speech, and when he hai; ended, he presents it to the next person that rises, by which ceremony each individual is re- minded, that it behoves him to be cautious in his discourse, as all he says will be faithfully recorded by the belt. The talk being over, the belt is deposited in the hands of the principal chief. On the ratification of a treaty, very broad splendid belts are reciprocally given by the contracting parties, which are deposited amongst the other ./oiis belonging to the nation. At stated intervals they are all produced to the nation, and the occasions upon which they were made are mentioned; if they relate to a talk,oneof the chiefs repeats the substance of what was said over to them; if to a treaty, the terms of it are recapitulated. Certain o^he squaws, also, are entrust- ed with the belts, whose business it is to relate the history of each one of them to the younger branches of the tribe ; this they do with great accuracy, and thus it is that the remem- brance of every important transaction is kept up. The wampum is formed of the inside of the calm shell, a large sea shell bearing some similitude to that of a scallop, which is found on the coasts of New England and Virginia. The shell is sent in its original rough state to England, and there cut into small pieces, exactly similar in shape and size to the modern glass bugles worn by ladies, which little bits of shell constitute wampum. There are two sorts of wam- pum, the white and the purple ; the latter is most esteemed by the Indians, who think a pound weight of it equally valuable with a pound of silver. The wampum is strung upon bits of leather, and the belt is composed of ten, twelve, or more strings, according to the importance of the occasion on whi(;h it is made ; sometimes also, the wampum is sowed in different patterns on broad belts of leather. The use of wampum appears to be very general amongst the Indian nations, but how it became so, is a question that ■'1' % '■ n h< >' ''■ "-I ir . ( » 976 franumn'* jouknby i I 111 i I ;■> ' would require discussiou, for it is well known tbut tliey are a people obstinately attached to old customs, and that would not therefore be apt to adopt, on the most grand and solemn occasion, the use of an article that they had never seen until brought to them by strangers; at the same time it seems wholly impossible that they should ever have been able to have made wampum from the calm shell for themselves; they fashion the bowls of tobacco pipes, indeed, from stone, in a very curious manner, and with astonishing accuracy, considering that they use no other instrument than a common knife, but then ^e stone which they commonly carve thus Is of a very soft kind ; the calm shell, however, is exceed- ingly hard, and to bore and cut it into such small pieces as are necessary to form wampum, very fine tools would bo wanting. Probably they made some use of the calm shell, and endeavoured to reduce it to as small bits as they could with their rude instruments, but on finding thAt Europeans could cut it so much more neatly than they could, laid aside the wampum before in use for that of our manufacture. The Indians are exceedingly sagacious and observant, and by dint of minute attention, acquire many qualifications to which we are wholly strangers. They will traverse a track- less forest, hundreds of miles in extent, without deviating fronf the straight course, and will reach to a certainty the spot whither they intended to go on setting out ; with equal skill they will cross one of the large lakes, and though out of sight of the shores for days, will . to a certainty make the land at once, at the very place they desired. Some of the French missionaries have supposed that the Indians are guided by instinct, and have pretended that Indian children can find theur way through a forest as easily as a person of maturer years, but this is a most absurd notion. It is un- questionably by a close attention to the growth of the trees, and position of the sun, that they find their way. On the northern side of a tree there is generally the most moss, and the bark on that side in general differs from that on the op- TO TUB POLAR «BA. 377 uosite one. The branches toward the south are for the most part more luxuriant than those on the other side of trees, and several other distinctions also subsist between the northern and southern sides, conspicuous to Indians, who are taught from their infancy to attend to them, which a common observer would perhaps never notice. Being ac- customed from their childhood, likewise, to pay great at- tention to the position of the sun, they learn to make the most accurate allowance for its apparent motion from one part of the heavens to another, and in any part of the day they will point to the part of the heavens where it is, although the sky be obscured by clouds or mists. An instance of their dexterity in finding their way through an unknown country, is noticed by Mr. "Weld. He says, a number of the Creek nation had arrived at Staunton, in their ymy to Philadelphia, whither they were going upon some affairs of importance, and had stopped there for the night. In the morning some circumstance or another, what could not be learned, induced one half of the Indians to set off without their companions, who did not follow until some hours afterwards. When these last were ready to pursue their journey, several of the towns-people mounted their horses to escort them part of the way. They proceeded along the high road for some miles, but all at once, hastily turning aside into the woods, though there was no path, the Indians advanced confidently forward; the people who ac- companied them, surprised at this movement, informed them that they were quitting the road to Philadelphia, and ex- pressed their fears lest they should ihiss their companions who had gone on before. They answered, that they knew better; that the way through the woods was the shortest to Philadelphia; and that they knew very well that their companions had entered the woods at the very place they did. Curiosity led some of the horsemen to go on, and to their astonishment, for there was apparently no track, they overtook the other Indians in the thickest part of the wood; P. V. 16 C c c m ' r .t"'1& i ^ • 378 franklin's journey !!•*: V 1 I but what appeared most singular was, that the route which they took was found, on examining a map, to be as'direct for Philadelphia as if they had taken the bearings by a ma- riner's compass. From others of their nation, who had been at Philadelphia at a former period, they had probably learned the exact direction- of that city from their village, and had never lost sight of it, although they had already travelled three hundred miles through woods, and had upwards of four hundred miles more to go before they could reach the place of their destination. The Indians, for the most part, are admirably well ac- quainted with the geography of their own country. Ask them any questions relative to the situation of a particular place in it, and if there be a convenient spot at hand, they will, with the utmost facility, trace upon the ground with a stick a map, by no means inaccurate, of the place in question, and the surrounding country ; they will point out the course of the rivers, and by directing your attention to the sun, make you acquainted with the different bearings. The Indians, most commonly take upon them the name of some animal, as. The Blue Snake; The Little Turkey; The Big Bear; The Mad Dog, &c. and their signatures consist of the outline, drawn with a pen, of the dilTerent animals whose names they bear. Some of the signatures at the bottom of these .deeds were really well executed, and were lively representations of the animals they were intended foi-, The Indians in general possess no small share of ingenuity. Their domestic wooden utensils, bows and arrows, and other weapons, &c. are made with the utmost neatness; and in- deed the workmanship of them is frequently such as to ex- cite astonishment, when it is considered that a knife and a hatchet are the only instruments they make use of. On the handles of their tomahawks, on their powder horns, on the bowls of their pipes, &c. you oftentimes meet with figures extremely well designed, and with specimens of carving far from contemptible. The embroidery upon their moccasins EY at the route which lap, to be as "direct bearings by a ma- tion, who had been d probably learned 3ir village, and had I already travelled id had upwards of 3y could reach the idmirably well ac- wn country. Ask tion of a particular pot at hand, they the ground with a 5 place in question, oint out the course ention to the sun, tarings. a them the name 'he Little Turkey; d their signatures n, of the different e signatures at the :ecuted, and were were intended fot. share of ingenuity. arrows, and other neatness; and in- (itly such as to ex- that a knife and a e use of. On the rder horns, on the meet with figures ens of carving far n their moccasins ^« THE P«,.,,« ,,^^ «nd other garments shews (hat the fem„l ge«jo„s in their way than the IV ;"• "" "°* '^^^ "- work would command admiration • Porcupine quiH The soft young quilJs of the ^ZZ ''T'' " ^"^"P'^' .«e. and they dye them of tl.e Z". ' "'" ^'"^*' *% colours imaginable. Some ^'' '"""* I'^""*'^"* and brilliant covered, but many of them v.i -^^^ ''""" ^«*'« ''is- -nyofthemediciLswithwirh , r'";"'"°""' «« ^« «'- miraculous cures. Their rlv*.u ^ P^'*"'*"' '^''netimes most -red from the vegetable world. ' ™'^'''^""' ''' «" P^o- A French writer tells of "W through several of .he'T . ?°°'' '"■"'"' «»' -•tl.O"t oxpres,™ J ,he Z,l *"""' '""" «' Pari., but »™es. prate,. . shop wCl J' *'"'"'"'"°'"' "■«- Suiting: «>methmg ,„ ,lth(TZ I ™ ''"''' ™~ of ;j;a«^e Of h„L, ::iX X '""he""' ''"°.''°"'''^ »f the most admirable i„,ii,„,i„ """' "Pm'"" one told, hoover, thattheyl :'r """^V '"" "'^^ »>-" *eywo,ldhave expreTsed" ^ f""" *"''''"' ""y ^t '^y -. r„ theirC, w,r ;: T"°" ""'"">' ■«-'»; ^gf-d to any person that Trs ^'^7 ■■'•^" °'■•^'■"'- «f » friend; and there is no"„„!' f ,. *"""" '» 1"»l"y prefer Ids „„„ ^j "J "f them bat what woaM ■« to any of these place, ThT- 1" ''""'"'''""'»»' ey Welphi. and the ofher sea -n„r,, 'T^' ''°'"'""' «' PW ™.ic.. because they at Zetl' ,T °'/°"' '° ^«»« "f- ;n.^ vessels over c'anoerih .t T*' ^ *''""'^« '«';• The y„,„„ Wyand;, ;h„"'! ''f 7'^ -»-'» 'key «de such a wonderful day's i„„l ' / "■" ""'"""ned. Welpbia. appeared highly del ITF ™. '°°'' """'^ "' ™- Sreal number of ship, „f „„?""' "'"• *>"' "ver. and the h^ Ms atte„ti„rL°re ,, "" """' '" >"""■« 'We at- 0» ooaUng .„ .he riverThlfi ° T '"f !.'^ *"'"'--• "J .nade certain observations, „„?,! ''"' "<• "' ««"«. „ P act, „s (he Indians never Ihil -• V.' f^ '^^ i'NL ':1f ^."|ij f^J, .1 .' M; 380 FRANKLIN « JUbRNIiY \u ft i to do on coming to any new or remarkable tipot. Thu secoud time, however, he went down to the water, he found to hig surprise that the river was running with equal rapidity in a contrary direction to what he had seen it run the day before. For a moment he imagined that by some mistake he must have got to the opposite side of it ; but soon recollecting; himself, and being persuaded that he stood on the very same spot from whence he had viewed it the day before, hig as- tonishment became great indeed. To obtain information upon such an interesting point, he immediately sought out an aid-de-comp of General Wayne, who had brought him fo town. This gentleman, however, only rendered the appear- ance still more mysterious to him, by telling him, that the Great Spirit, for the convenience of the white men, who were liis particular favourites, had made the rivers in their coun- try to run two ways. Nothing gives more delight to the Indians than to see a man that excels in any bodily exercise; and tell them even of a person that is distinguished for his great strength, for his swiftness in running, for his dexterous management in the bow or the gun, for his cunning in hunting, for his in- trepid and firm conduct in war, or the like, they will listen to you with the greatest pleasure, and readily join in praises of the hero. No people on earth are more alive to the calls of friend- ship ; no people have a greater affection for their ofTspring in their tender years; no people are more sensible of an injury; a word in the slightest degree insulting will kindle a fiamein their breasts, that can only be extinguished by the bleed of the offending party , and they will traverse forests for hun- dreds of miles, exposed totheinclemency of the severest wea- ther and to the pangs of hunger, to gratify their revenge ; they willnot cease foryears daily to visit, and silently to mourn over the grave of a departed child; and they will risk their lives, and sacrifice every thing they possess, to assist a friend in dis- tress; but at the same time, in their opinion, no man can be TU TUU POLAK HBJi. 381 *pot. The secoud he found to his juttl rapidity in a in the day before, mistake he must , soon recollecting on the very same ay before, his as- btain information diately sought out lad brought him to idered the appear- iUing him, that the ite men, who were ivers in their coun- dians than to see a tnd tell them even great strength, for us management in mntiug, for his in- ke, they will listen dily join in praises the calls of friend- for their offspring snsible of an injury, .11 kindle a flame in ed by the blood of se forests for bun- ifthe severest wea- leir revenge; they jently to mourn over risk their lives, and list a friend in dis- »n, no man can be ustt'emed u good warrior, or a dignified character, that openly betrays any extravagant emotions of surprise, of joy, of sorrow, or of fear, on any occasion whatsoever. The ex- cellence of appearing thus indifferent to what would excite the strongest emotions in the minds of any other people, is forcibly inculcated on them from their earliest youth ; and such an astonishing command do they acqifire over them- selves, that even at the stake, when suffering the severest tortures that can be inflicted on the human body by the flames and the knife, they appear uiuuoved, and laugh, as it is well known, at their tormentors. The Indians scarcely ever lift their hands against their children ; but if they are unmindful of what is said to them, they sometimes throw a little water in their faces, a species of reprimand of which the children have the greatest dread, and which produces an instantaneous good effect. One of the French missionaries tells of his having seen a girl of an advanced age so vexed at having some water thrown in her face by her mother, as if she was still a child, that she in- stantly retired, and put an end to her existence. As long as they remain children, the young Indians are attentive in the extreme to the advice of their parents; but when arrived at the age of puberty, and able to provide for themselves*, they no longer have any respect for them, and they will follow their own will and pleasure in spite of all their remonstran- ces, unless, indeed, their parents be of an advanced age. Old age never fails to command their most profound vene- ration. In their conduct towards one another nought but gentle- ness and harmony is observable ; but when intoxicated with spirits, which is but too often the case, a very different picture is presented to view, and they appear more like devils in- carnate than human beings; they roar, they fight, they cut each other, and commit every sort of outrage; indeed, so sensible are they of their own infirmities in this state, that wben a number of them are about to get drunk, they give a' ' ..^ i ! iiL, M > V, f l.f sea PRANKLINM JOUKNKY ;, ' i«|l(; luP'^1 up their knives and tomuhuwks, 8cc. to ono ol' the purtv, who is on honour to remtiin sober, und to prevent mlNchiof, and who generally does behave according to this promiHe. If they happen to get drunk without having taken tluH pre- caution, their squaws take the earliest opportunity to deprive them )f their weapons. The Indians prefer whisky und rum to all other spirituous liquors; but they do not seoui eager to obtain these li(|uorg so much for the pleasure of gratifying their palates us for the sake of intoxication. There is not one in a hundred that can refrain from drinking to excess if he have it in \\k power, and the generality of them having once got a tust(> of any intoxicating liquor, will use every means to guiti more ; and to do so they at once become mean, servile, de- ceitful, and depraved, in every sense of the word. Nothing; can make amends to these unfortunate people for the in- troduction of spirituous liquors amongst them. Before their acquaintance with them, they were distinguished beyond all other nations for their temperance in eating and drinking; for their temperance in eating, indeed, they still are remarka- ble, they esteem it indecorous in the highest degree even to appear hungry ; and on arriving at their villages, after hav- ing fasted, perhaps for several days preceding, they will sit down quietly, and not ask for any food for a considerable time; and having got wherewith to satisfy their appetite, they will eat with moderation, as though the calls of hunger were not more pressing than if they hud feasted the hour before. They never eat on any occasion in a hurry. These Indians are by nature of a Very hospitable, generous disposition, where no particular circumstances operate to the contrary; and, indeed, even when revenge woutd fain per- suade them to behave differently, yet having once professed a friendship for a stranger, and pledged themselves for his safety, nothing can induce them to deviate sfrom their word. The generality of the Indian nations appear to have two sorts of chiefs, council chiefs, and war chiefs. The former T(l TIIK POLAR USA. 383 [)( the party, «'nt miHchief, Ihitt promise, aken this pre- lity to {l«prive ther spirituous I these li(|uor8 ■ palates us for a hundred tliat have it in l>is ice got a taste means to guiu san, servile, de- word. Nothing >ple for the in- i. Before their ished beyond all 5 and drinking; till are remarka- degree even to luges, after hav- ing, they will sit \t a considerable their appetite, calls of hunger asted the hour hurry, litable, generous is operate to the ouW fain per- once professed Imselves for his »m their word, ar to have two The former are hereditary, and are employed principally in (he manago> ment of their civil ufluirs; but they may be war chicls at the name time ; the latter are chosen from amongst those who Imve distinguished themselves the most in battle, and are .solely employed in leading the warriors in the field. The chiefs have no power of enforcing obedience to their oom- inands, nor do they ever attempt to give their orders in an imperious manner; they simply advise. Each private indi- vidual conceives that he is horn in a state uf perfect liberty, iind he disdains all controul, but that which his own reason 8ul)jects him to. As they all have one interest, however, at heart, which is the general welfare of the nation, and as it is well known that the chiefs are actuated by no other motives, whatever measures they recommend are generally attended to, and at once adopted. The Indians have the most sovereign contempt for any set of people that have tamely relinquished their liberty; and they consider such as have lost'it, even after a hard struggle, us unworthy any rank in society above that of old women ; to this cause, and not to the difference that subsists between their persons, is to be attributed the rooted aversion which the Indians have for negroes. You could not possibly affront an Indian moje readily, than by tolluig him that you think he bears some resemblance to a negro; or that he has neg^o blood in his veins ; they look upon them as animals inferior to the human species, and will kill them with as much un- concern as a dog or a cat. An American ofTicer, who, during the war with Great Britain, had been sent to one of the Indian nations resident on the western frontier of the States, to persuade them to re- main neuter in the contest, has stated, that whilst he re- mained amongst them some agents arrived in their village to negotiate, if possible, for the release of some negro slaves whom they had carried off from the American settlements. One of these negroes, a remarkably tall handsome fellow, had been given to an Indian woman of some consequence in : I 111 N 364 FRANKLIN'S JOtRNUY i' f> the nation, In the manner in which prisoners are iistially dis- posed of amongst them. Application was made to her for his ransom. She listened quietly to what was said ; resolved at the same time, however, that the fellow should not have his liberty, she stepped aside into her cabin, and havini^ brought out a large knife, walked uplo her slave, and with- out more ado plunged it into his bowels: " Now," says she, addressing herself coolly to the agents ; " now I give you leave to take away your negro," The poor creature that had been stabbed fell to the ground, and lay writhing about in the greatest agonies, untill one of the warriors took compassion on him, and put an end to his misery by a blow of a toma- hawk. It is a very singular and remarkable circumstance, that not- withstanding the striking similarity in the persons, manners, dispositions, and religion of the different tribes of Indians from one end of the continent of North America to the other, a similarity so great as hardly to leave a doubt on the mind but that they must all have had the same origin, the lan- guages of the different tribes should yet be so materially dif- ferent. No two tribes speak exactly the same language ; and the languages of many of those, who live at no great distance asunder, vary so much, that they cannot make them- selves at all understood by each other. Some persons, who have made the Indian languages their study, assert, that all the different languages spoken by those tribes, with which we have any connection, are but dialects of three primitive tongues, viz. the Huron, the Algonquin, and the Sioux ; the two former of which, being well under- .stood, will enable a person to converse, at least slightly, with the Indians of any tribe in Canada or the United States. All the nations that speak a language derived from the Sioux, have, it is said, a hissing pronunciation ; those who speak one derived from the Huron, have a gutteral pronunciation; and such as speak any one derived from the Algonquin, pro- nounce their words with greater softness and ease tlian any of the other. TU THE POLAR SEA. 385 usually dis- ) to her for i; resolved d not have and having 3, and with- er," says she, V I give yo" ture that had T about in the ,k compassion vr of a toma- ance, that not- ions, manners, aesof Indians ica to the other, bt on the mind )rigin, the lan- materially dif- ime language; re at no great not make them- anguages theiv spoken by those are but dialects the Algonquin, ing well under- ist slightly, with United States. from the Sioux, "le who speak one lunciation; a^i Jgonquin, pro- ■d ease than any The Indians, both men and women, speak with great deli- beration, and never appear to be at a loss for words to ex- press their sentiments. The native music of the Indians is very rude and indifferent, and equally devoid of melody and variety. Their famoTis war song is nothing better than an in- sipid recitative. Singing and dancing with them go hand in hand ; and when a large number of them, collected together, join in one song, the few wild notes of which it consists, mingled with the sound of their pipes and drums, sometimes produce, when heard at a distance, a pleasing effect on the ear ; but it is then and then only that their music is tolerable. A writer who was witness to their dancing says, three el- derly men, seated upon a tree, were the principal musicians One of these beat a small drum, formed of a piece of a hollow tree covered with a skin, and the two others marked time equally with the drum, with rattles formed of dried squashes or gourds filled with peas. At the same time these men sung, indeed they were the leaders of the song, which the dancers joined in. The dancers consisted solely of a party of squaws, to the number of twenty or thereabouts, who, stand- ing in a circle, with their faces inwards and their hands folded round each other's necks, moved, thus linked together, side- ways, with close short steps, .round a small fire. The men and won.en never dance together, unless indeed a pretty squaw be introduced by some young fellow into one of the men's dances, which is considered as a very great mark of favour. This is of a piece with the general conduct of the Indians, who look upon the women in a totally different light from what we do in Europe, and condemn them as slaves to do all the drudgery. After the women had danced for a time, a larger fire was kindled, and the men assembled from different parts of the I island, to the number of fifty or sixty, to amuse themselves I in their turn. There was little more variety in their dancing I than in that of the women. They first walked round the fire p a large circle, closely, one after another, marking time P. V. 17. D D D » ';1 380 franklin's journey IM ■ !, with short steps to the music ; the best dancer was put at their head, and gave the step ; he was also the principal singer in the circle. After having made one round, the step was altered to a wider one, and they began to stamp with great vehemence upon the ground ; and every third or fourth round, making little leaps off the ground with both feet, they turned their faces to the fire and bowed their heads, at the same time going on sideways. At last, having made a dozen or two rounds, towards the end of which each one of them had begun to stamp on the ground with inconceivable fury, but more particularly the principal dancer, they all gave a loud shout at once, a^d the dance ended. In two or three minutes another dance was begun, which ended as soon, and nearly in the same way as the other. There was but little difference in the figures of any of them, and the only material difference in the songs was, that in some of them the dancers, instead of singing the whole of the ail', came in simply with responses to the airs sung by the old men. They beckoned to us to join them in their dance, which we immediately did, as it was likely to please them, and we remained on the island with them till two or three o'clock in the morning. There is something inconceivably terrible in the sight of a number of Indians dancing thus round a fire in the depths of thick woods, and the loud shrieks at the end of every dance add greatly to the horror which their first appearance inspires. They never think of dancing till the night is considerably advanced, and they keep it up till daybreak. In the day time they lie sleeping in the sun, or sit smoking tobacco, that ?s, when they have nothing particular to engage them. Though the most diligent persevering people in the world when roused into action, yet when at peace with their neigh- bours, and having got wherewith to satisfy the calls of hunger, they are the most slothful and indolent possible. The dances mentioned are such iis the Indians amuse themselves with in common. On grand occasions they have 1 L_ er was put at the principal ound, the step to stamp with third or fourth 1 both feet, they ir heads, at the ig made a dozen ach one of them jonceivable fury, , they all gave a vas begun, which ay as the other, es of any of them, ,„gs was, that in ig the whole of the irs sung by the old min their dance, y to please them, m till two or three ling inconceivably [dians dancing thus jnd the loud shrieks the horror which laht is considerably [reak. In the day smoking tobacco, lar to engage them, lople in the world L with their neigh- [the calls of hunger. Issible. , Ihe Indians am«se loccHsions they have TO TUU POLAR «BA. 387 a variety of others much more interesting to a spectator. The dances which you see in common amongst the Shawnese, and certain other tribes, are also, it is said, much more en- tertaining than those here described. Of their grand dances the war dance must undoubtedly, from every account received of it, be the one most worthy the attention of a stranger. It is performed both on setting out and returning from their war parties, and likewise at other times, but never except on some very particular and solemn occasion. - Tha chiefs and warriors who are about to join in this dance dress and paint themselves as if actually out on a warlike expedition, and they carry in their hands their war- like weapons. Being assembled, they seat themselves down on their ham.ir common food to their general un- my one from going sing even that no Jo. In North America, most agreeably si- side by the Biver I Ind on the other bv ' TU THB PULAR HEA. dm a creek, which has a very rapid current, and aiTords excel- lent seats for a great number of mills. The town is regu- larly laid out, and contains about eighty strong built stone dwelling houses and a large church. Three of the dwelling houses are very spacious buildings, and are appropriated respectively to the accommodation of the unmarried young men of the society, of the unmarried females, and of the wi- dows. In these houses different manufactures are carried ou, and the inmates of each are subject to a discij)line ap- proaching somewhat to that of a monastic institution. They eat together in a refectory ; they sleep in dormitories ; they attend morning and evening prayers in the chapel of the house ; they work for a certain number of hours in the day ; and they have stated intervals allotted to them for recreation. They are not subjected, by the rules of the society, to per- petual confinement; but they seldom, notwithstanding, go beyond the bounds of their walks and gardens, except it be occasionally to visit their friends in the town. The young persons of different sexes have but very little intercourse with each other ; they never enter each other's houses, and at church they are obliged to sit separate ; a bachelor is not permitted to offer his proposals in person to the object of his choice, but merely through the medium of the superintendant of the female house. If from the report of the elders and wardens of the society it appears to the super- intendant that he is able to maintain a wife, she then acquaints her protegee with the offer, and should she consent, they are married immediately, but if she do not, the superintendant selects another female from the house, whom she imagines would be suitable to the young man, and on his approval of her they are as quickly married. Hasty as these marriages are, they are never known to be attended with unhappiness ; for being taught from their earliest infancy to keep those pas- sions under controul, which occasion so much mischief amongst the mass of mankind ; being inured to regular habits of indus- try, and to a quiet sober life ; and being in their peaceable n iJ ! »0 FRANKLIN !i JOURNKY , and retired settlements out of tlie reach of those temptations which persons are exposed to who launch forth into the busy world, and who mingle with the multitude, the parties meet with nought through life to interrupt their domestic repose. Attached to the young men's and to the young women's houses there are boarding schools for boys and girls, under the direction of proper teachers, which are also inspected by the elders and wardens of the society. These schools are in great depute, and not only the children of Moravians are sent to them, but also those of many genteel persons of a different persuasion, resident in Philadelphia, New York, and other towns in the neighbouring States. The boys are instructed in the Latin, German, French, and English languages; arithmetic, music, drawing, &c. the girls are likewise instructed in these different languages and sciences, and, in short, in every thing that is usually taught at a female boarding school, except dancing. When of a sufficient age to provide for themselves, the young women of the society are admitted into the house destined for their accommodation, where embroi- dery, fino needle-work, carding, spinning, knitting, &c. &c. and other works suitable to females, are carried on. A se- parate joom is allotted for every different business, and a fe- male, somewhat older than the rest, presides in it, to inspect the work, and preserve regularity. Persons are appointed to dispose of the several articles manufactured in the house, and the money which they produce is distributed amongst the individuals engaged in manufacturing them, who, after pay- ing a certain sun towards the maintenance of the house, and a certain sum besides into the pubhc fund of the society, are allowed to keep the remainder for themselves. After the boys have finished their school education, they are apprenticed to the business which accords most with their inclination. Should this be a business or trade that is carried on in the young men's house, they at once go there to learn it, but if at the house of an individual in the town, they only board and lodge at the young men's house. If they are in- !■■' TO THB POLAR 8BA. S91 dined to agricultural pursuits, they are then put under the care o( one of the farmers of the society. The young men subscribe to the support of their house, and to the public fund, just as the young women do ; the widows do the same ; and every individual in the town likewise contributes a small sum weekly to the general fund of the society. Situated upon the creek, which skirts the town, there is a flour mill, a saw mill, an oil mill, a fulling mill, a mill for grinding bfirk and dye stuff, a tan yard, a currier's yard ; and on the Leheigh River an extensive brewery, at which very good malt liquor is manufactured. These mills, &c. belong to the society at large, and the profits arising from them, the persons severally employed in conducting them being first handsomely rewarded for their services, are paid into the pub- lic fund. The lands for some miles round the town, which are highly improved, likewise belong to the society, as does also the tavern, and the profits arising from them are dis- posed of in the same manner as those arising from the mills^ the person^ employed in managing the farms, and attending to the tavern, being nothing more than stewards or agents of the society. The fund thus raised is employed in relieving the distressed brethren of the society in other parts of the world, in forming new settlements, and in defraying the ex- pense of the missions for the purpose of propagating the gos- pel amongst the heathens. The tavern at Bethl'^hem is very commodious, and it is the neatest and best conducted one, without exception, in any part of America. Having communicated to the landlord, on arriving at it, a wish to see the town and public buildings, he immediately dispatched a messenger for one of the elders, and in less than a quarter of an hour, brother Thomas, a lively fresh coloured little man, of about fifty years of age, ' :itered the room : he was dressed in a plain blue coat and waistcoat, brown corderoy breeches, and a large round hat; there was goodness and innocence in his looks, and his manners were so open and unconstrained, that it was impossible not ll '*' m I 'i m »>'!. 393 VRANKLlN'fl JOVRNBY to become familiar with him at once. When we were ready to sally forth, he placed himself between two of us, and lean- ing on our arms, and chatting without ceremony, he con- ducted us first to the young women's house. Here we were shewn into a neat parlour, whilst brother Thomas went to ask permission for us to see the house. In a few minutes the superintendant herself came ; brother Thomas introduced her to us, and accompanied by them both we visited the different apartments. The house is extensive, and the passages and stair-cases are commodious and airy, but the work rooms are small, and to such a pitch were they heated by stoves, that on entering into them at first we could scarcely breathe. The stoves, which they use, are built in the German style. The fire is inclosed in a large box or case formed of glazed tiles, and the warm air is thenccr conducted, through flues, into similar large cases placed in different parts of the room, by which means every part is rendered equally warm. About a dozen females or more, nearly of the same age, were seated at work in each apartment. The entrance of strangers did not interrupt them in the least ; they went on with their work, and except the inspectress, who never failed politely to rise and speak to us, they did not even seem to take any notice of our being in the room. The dress of the sisterhood, though not quite uniform, is very nearly so. They wear plain calico, linen, or stuff gowns, with aprons, and close tight linen caps, made with a a peak in front, and tied under the chin with a piece of ribband. Pink ribbands are said to be worn as a badge by those who are inclined to marry ; however, all the unmarried women wore them, not excepting those whose age and features seemed to have excluded them from every chance of becom- ing the votaries of Hymen. The dormitory of the female house is a very spacious apart- ment in the upper story, which is aired by a large ventilator in the ceiling. It contains about fifty boarded beds without TO THB POLAR SBA. 99S re were ready 'us, andlean- nony, he con- Here we were )mas went to ew minutes the introduced her ed the different md stair-cases s are small, and lat on entering ;. The stoves, e. The fire is rlazed tiles, and lues, into similar room, by which About a dozen were seated at itrangers did not writh their work, d politely to rise take any notice juite uniform, is I, or stuff gowns, ie with a a peak ,iece of ribband. •e by those who [married women 'e and features [hance of becom- spacious apart- I large ventilator ;d beds without testers, each calculated to hold one person. They sleep here during winter time in the German style, between two feather beds, to which the sheets and blankets are stitched fast; in summer time the heat is too great here to admit even of a single blanket. After having gone through the different apartments of the female house, we were conducted by the superintendant into a sort of shop, where different little articles of fancy work, manufactured by the sisterhood, are laid out to the best ad- vantage. It is always expected that strangers visiting the house will lay out some trifling sum here ; and this is the only reward which any member of the society expects for the trouble of conducting a stranger throughout every part of the town. The house of ihe sisterhood exhibits a picture of the ut- most neatness and regularity, as do likewise the young men's and the widow's houses; and indeed the same may be said of every private house throughout the town. The mills, brewery, &c. which are built upon the most approved plans, are filso kept in the very neatest order. Brother Thomas, after having shewn us the different public buildings and works, next introduced us into the houses of several of the married men, that were most distinguished for their ingenuity, and in some of them, particularly at the house of a cabinet maker, we were entertained with very curious pieces of workmanship. > The manufactures in general carried on at Bethlehem consist of woQllen and linen cloths, hats, cotton and worsted caps and stockings, gloves, shoes, carpenters, cabinet makers, and turners work, clocks, and a few other articles, of hard- ware, &C. i The church is a plain building of stone, adorned vnth pictures from sacred history. It is furnished Avith a toler- able organ, as likewise are the chapels of the young men's and young women's houses ; they accompany their hymns, besides, with violoncellos, violins, flutes, &c. The whole P. V. 17. E E E : ( ,U'< \ '' ; ; \ ' W^ m- ■ ■ ' i ^^ iWr ■ ^f^ n nrn^l m4 FRANK1.IN'f JOURWBY ■ooiety attends the church on a Sunday, and when any one of the society dies, all the remaining members attend his funeral, which is ouuduoted with great solemnity, though with little pomp ; they never go into mourning for their de. parted friends. Every house in the town is supplied with an abundance of excellent water from a spring, which is forced through pipes by means of an hydraulic machine worked by water, and which is situated on the banks of the creek. Some of (he houses are supplied with water in every room. The machine is very simple, and would easily raise the water of the spring, if necessary, several hundred feet. The spring from whence the houses are supplied with water stands nearly in the centre of the town, and over it, a large stone with very thick walls, is erected. Houses like this are very common in America ; they are called spring houses, and are built for the purpose of preserving meat, milk, butter, &c. during the heats of summer. This spring house in Bethlehem is common to the whole town : a shelf or board in it is allotted to each family, and thougl .'.lersis no watch placed over it, and the door be only secured by a latch, yet every person is certain of finding, when he comes for it, his plate of butter or bowl of milk, &c. exactly in the ■ame state as when he put it in.*^ The Moravians study to render their conduct strictij conformable to the principles of the Christian religion. Every unprejudiced |>erson that has visited their set- tlements must acknowledge, that their moral conduct is truly excellent, and is such as would, if generally adopted, make men happy in the extreme. They live together lil(e members of one large family ; the most perfect harmony subsists between them, and they seem to have but one wish at heart, the propagation of the gospel, and the good of mankind. They are in general of a grave turn of inind; but nothing of that stiffness, or that singularity, prevalent I amongst the Quakers, is observable in their manners. TO THB POLAR IBA. 906 I when any one oers attend h'n iemnity, though ng for their de> ii an abundance forced through orked by water, creek. Some of »ery roooj. The rawe the water of eet. ire supplied with wn, ando^erit,a ted. Houses like are called spring if preserving meat, ,mer. This spring jole town; a shelf andthougV '»er«i8 only secured bj a ,g, when he comes &c. exactly in the [if conduct striotij [chriatian religion, visited their set- moral conduct is generally adopted, live together like Lt perfect harmony [ have but one wish [, and the good oi lave turn of min«li igularity, prevalent I in their man""*' Wherever their society has extended itself in America, the moat happy consequences have resulted from it ; good order and regularity Imve become conspicuous in the be- haviour of the people of the neighbourhood, and arts and manufactures have been introduced into (he country. As the whole of the plot of ground, on which Bethlehem stands, belongs to the society, as well as the lands for a considerable way round the town, the Moravians here are not liuble to be troubled by intruders ; but any person that will conform (o their line of conduct will be received into their society with readiness and cordiality. They do not seem desirous of adding to the number of kuses in Bethlehem ; but whenever there is an increase of ;)eople, they send them off to another part of the country, there to form a new settlement. Since Bethlehem was founded, they have established two other towns, namely, Nazareth and Letitz. The former of these stands at the distance of about ten miles from Bethlehem, and in coming down from the Blue Mountains you pass through it; it is about half the size of Bethlehem, and built much on the same plan. The country for many miles round Bethlehem is most pleasingly diversified with rising grounds; the soil is rich, and better cultivated than any other part of America. Until within a few years past this neighbourhood has been distin- guished for the salubrity of its climate; but fevers, chiefly bi- lious and intermittent, have increased to a great degree of late, and indeed, not only here, but in many other parts of Pennsylvania, which have been long settled. Various rea- sons have been assigned for this increase of fevers in Penn- sylvania, but it appears most probably to be owing to the unequal quantities of rain that have fallen of late years, and tu the unprecedented mildness of the winters. Bethlehem is visited during summer time by numbers of people from the neighbouring large towns, who are led thither by curiosity or pleasure; and regularly, twice a week E E e2 mm ' I, .-i : I m u mri FRANKI.IN'M JOURNftY tlirouj^hout the year, n public stage waggon runs between it and Pliiladelpliia. At the distance of eighteen miles from the town of Nia- gara or Newark, are those remarkable Falls in Niagara Ktver, which may justly be ranked amongst the greategt natural curiosities in the known world. The road leading from Lake Ontario to Erie runs within a few hundred yardi of them. This road, which is within the British dominions, is carried alonjj the top of the lofty steep-banks of the river: for a conMidcrabio way it runs close to their very edge, and in passing along it the eye of the traveller is entertained with a variety of the most grand and beautiful prospects. The river, instead ot growing narrow as you prbceed up. wards, widens considerably ; at the end of nine or ten miles It expands to the breadth of a mile, and herelt assumes much the appearance of a lake; it is enclosed, seemingly on all sides, by high hills, and the current, owing to the great depth of the water, is so gentle as to be scarcely percepti- ble from the top of the banks. It continues thus broad for a mile or two, when on a sudden the waters are contracted between the high hills on each side. From hence up to the falls the current is exceedingly irregular and rapid. At the upper end of this broad part uf the river, and nearly at the foot of the banks, is situated a small village, that ha; been called Queenstown, but which, in the adjacent country, is best known by the name of '' The Landing." The lake merchant vessels can proceed up to this village with perfect safety, and they commonly do so, to deposit, in the stores there, such goods as are intended to be sent higher up the country, and to receive in return the furs, &c. that have been collected at the various posts on Lakes Huron and Erie, and sent thither to be conveyed down to Kingston, across Lake Ontario. The portage from this place to tlie nearest navigable part of Niagara River, above the Falls, is nine miles in length. From the town of Niagara to Queenstown, the country TO TIFR POLAR SKA. ai7 runs between it Itown, the countrj in tlic nclgliboiirhood of the rivor is vory level ; but here it puts un a different aspect; a ( infused range uf hills, covered with oaks of an immense 8ize, suddenly rises up before you, and the rond that winds up the side of them JH 80 steep and rui^ged, that it is absolutely necessary for the traveller to leave his oarriai^e, if he sliould be in one, and proceed to the top on foot. Beyond these hills you ngaiii come to an unbroken level country : but the soil iicre differs materially from that on the opposite side: it consists of a riuh dark earth intermixed with clay, and aboiindinsi: with stones; whereas, on the side next Lake Onturio, the soil is of a yellowish cast, in some places in- clining to gravel and in others to sand. From the brow of one -of the hills in this ridge, which overhangs the little village of Queenstown, the eye of the traveller is gratified with one of the finest prospects that can be imagined in nature: you stand amidst a clump of large oaks, a Utile to the left of the road, and looking downwards, perceive, through tlie branches of the trees with which the hill is clothed from the summit to the base, the tops of the houses of Queenstown, and in front of the village, the ships moored in the river; the ships are at least two hundred feet below you, and their masts appear like slender reeds peep- ing up amidst the thick foliage of the trees. Carrying your eye forward, you may trace the river in all its windings, and finally see it disembogue into Luke Ontario, between the town and the fort: the lake itself terminates your view ill this direction, except merely at one part of the horizon, where you just get a glimpse of the blue hills of Toronto. The shore of the river, on the right-hand, remains in its natural state, covered with one continual forest ; but on the opposite side the -country is interspersed with cultivated fieUU and neat farm houses down to the water's edge. The country beyond the hills is much less cleared than that which lies towards the town of Niagara, ou the navigable part of the river. "cks «e water, which Iten^X al'f ™'-' *«'«on "e upper par, „f the river 7 T^ "'"''"««"h the bed of .V"* of the edge „, the sheet of IT'". "-''"° ■"-»"' » peep ,n,„ ,he caverns behind i, T,"u ""' '"' ^"""Sh "> »arly taken away by the vi .■'""•'' "y ""oath wa, '*"..heb„.t„J„/, ;™^» wWwind that alwl^ «« of such a vast body oTwI °"'"'™"^" ''' ""> "<>»■ ""fes, I had no i„cli„ati„^ at tl, '*'""'' "'" "•«'«• I "Jeed, any „f ,„ afte wa!l ,'"" '° «° ««*er; nor ^ '7 confines of these "^t: 7'°" "" »"'- 'ke ■i I'f » t ■'!.; rn .■1':' ■i J m franklin's journey ening jaws. No words can conrey an adequate idea of the grandeur of the scene at this place. Your sensefi are ap- palled by the sight of the immense body of water t'wt comes pouring down so closely to you from the top of the stupend- ous precipice, and by the thundering sound of the billows tlashing against the rocky sides of the caverns below ; yuu tremble with reverential fear, when you consider that a blast of the whirlwind might sweep you from off the slippery rocks on which you stand) and precipitate yoa into the dread- ful gulph beneath, from whence all the power of man could not extricate you ; you feel what an insignificant being you are in the creation, and your mind is forcibly impressed with an awful idea of the power of that mighty Being who com- manded the waters to flow. Since the Falls of Niagara were first discovered they have receded very considerably, owing to the disrupture of the rocks which form i . i precipice. The rocks at bottom are first loosened by the constant action of water upor them ; they are afterwards carried away, and those at top being thus undermined, are soon broken by the weight of the water rushing over them ; even within the memory of many of the present inhabitants of the country, the falls have re- ceded several yards. The commodore of the King's vessels on Lake Erie, who had been employed on that lake for upwards of thirty years, said, that when he first came into the country it was a common practice for young men to go to the island in the middle of the falls ; that after dining there, they used frequently to dare each other to walk into the river towards certain large rocks in the midst of the rapids, not far from the edge of the falls ; and sometimes to proceed through the water, even beyond these rocks. No such rocks are to be seen at present ; and were a man to advance two yards into the river from the island, he would be inevitably swept away by the torrent. It has been conjectured, that the Falls of Niagara were originally situated at Queenstown ; and indeed the more pains you take to examine the course of the xivei from the present fall, dowiiwaM .1. taagtoo that such a co„,eI„ '■ "" ""/^ ''»«'» « »«> rwd; circumstances vhiei, ZT, "" '"•<''"'" »""' disruption has ^ken place i'?? '^"'°"' *" «"»» Paat .e need be at no lossralo„„„f r 'r' °' "'^ """ ' ""d marks of the uction of water .,„ "V " "■"" "^ *"<'«'>' ,™l«„iderabl,ab„ve,re 7 u "'''' °' "" """-k'. ^' never been Lr.!'':?"' ''''-• ^« «k« riv.; P'«' "oods; it is p,a.„, r,; Xe '::<::'; '"""^ "= keen once much more elev»(,j ,1. ■. ^^ ""'" '"'e «"eensto™. howeverlhere i!"™ "." "" ''"'^"'- ^'^^ tead US to imagine that the hSJX ' "" ""o '>»»''» '» %!•« .here than it is no ^ The' .T'"" »'" """«'' .^epth of the river just bellw I'\ZTo "'"™"' "' ""■ ■': '"fd"" ^Pansion there at the same « •*"""""""•• «"'' «te that the waters must f„r7 , ' """» '» «<«- WIen from the top „f Th" J° " ^'':'' '^"S"" »f time have -;-ive deepba^in b^^w th^ l":™ '■"-■' «■« •r two above Queenstown .P.. '"' '""• « «"» ™. .0 a deep hole tl 'ed '^^s h 7"'""' '""'>''■"• formed by the waters falling fo, I ?* ""' P'-°'"'''ly ako , « .pot, in consequen r„f :: ^T ''*'' »f "tae on the *» precipice hav.^grmlel'T'"*'' composed the ;«- pi- did. Tra'ditir xfrt ; "" "-'^ ■" -^ itesd of having been in the f™ V f «""" f""' '"- ie« in the middle. Fo^a t" "^^ ^""^-''"o- °»ce pr-o- h-aiued nearly i„ ,he ZlTr '"^'- ''°™-'. i« has •fthc water a, the bottom of 1?' °"'' "' """ ^'■°'««°» " a. the centre of thTfo,, ti^f '^"' " '° "■«"'' Peat- "e water c„nse,„en.taS^':^,™„':»^<>«'- Par*. and as H»gthe precipice than ata^ntT ""'" '° '"«'-■- h' i' nray remain neart ■„!"""''"'""" """«'«"y ^ome. """y '" "e same form for ages to AyHe^o..m„f,e„„rse.sh„ePal,isfo„„da.„dof 1^:^:, 410 rRANKMN't JOURNiiY white concrete Hubstancc, by the people of the country, called spray. Some perHons have supposed that it itt formed from earthly particles of the water, which desceiulinji;, owing to their great specific gravity, iiiud, a sort of marl, though some use red earth, a kind of bog-iron-ore ; but this colour neither looks ao \itr\it, nor forms such an agreeable contrast as the white with tlie black hair of the robe. Their quiver hangs behind them, and in the hand is carried the bow, with an arrow always ready for attack or defence, and sometimes they have a gun ; they also carry a bag* containing materials for making a fire, some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever valuables they possess. This bag is neatly ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus equipped, the Stone Indian bears himself with an air of perfect indepc-'onr'e. The only articles or' t" '-.[-'jan commerce they require in exchani^e for the meat i^/ V, rnish to the trading post, are tobacco, knives, ammuniiion, and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but more frequently buttons, which they string in their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will proba- bly have two or three dozen of them hanging at equal dis- tances on locks of hair, from each side of the forehead. At the end of these locks, small coral bells are sometimes at- tached, which tingle at every motion of the head, a noise which seems greatly to delight the wearer; sometimes strings uf buttons are bound round the head like a (iara ; and a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the head. The Stone Indians steal whatever they can, particularly horses; these animals they maintain are common property, sent by the Aliiiii>'hty for the general use of man, and there- fore may be taken wherever met with ; still they admit the right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent theft if possible. This avi»wed disposition on their part calls forth the strictest vi/yilance at the different posts ; notwithstand- ing which the most daring attacks are often made with suc- cess, soinetiititis on parties of three or four, but oftener on iiidividunls. About two years ago a band of them had the imi mn I) : II H- hii f («y I ■i / V if/'' 5< (.1 >1 ff I 410 franklin's journey audacity to attempt to take away gome horses which were grazing before the gate of the North-west Company's fort • and, after braving the fire from the few people then at the establishment through the whole day, and returning their shots occasionally, they actually succeeded in their enter- prise. One man was killed on each side. They usually strip defenceless persons whom they meet of all their gar- ments, but particularly of those which have buttons, and leave them to travel home in that state, however severe the weather. If resistance be expected, they not unfrequently murder before they attempt to rob. The traders, when they travel, invariably keep some men on guard to prevent sur- prise, whilst the others sleep; and often practise the strata- gem of lighting a fire at sun-s3t, which they leave burning, and move on after dark to a more distant encampment— yet these precautions do not always baffle the depredators. Such is the description of men whom the traders of this river have constantly to guard against. It must require a long resi- dence among them, and much experience of their manners, to overcome the apprehensions their hostility and threats are calculated to excite. Through fear of having their provision and supplies entirely cut off, the traders are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences, even murder, though the delinquents present themselves with unblushing effrontery almost immediately after the fact, and perhaps boast of it. They do not, on detection, consider themselves under any obligation to deliver up what they have stolen without receiV' ing an equivalent. The Stone Indians keep in amity with their neighbours the Crees from motives of interest ; and the two tribes unite in determined hostility against the nations dwelling to the westward, which are generally called Slave Indians— a term of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes against whom they have waged successful wars. The Slave Indians are said greatly to resemble the Stone Indians, being equally TO THE POLAR SEA. 417 desperate and daring in tbeir acts of aggression and dis- honesty towards the traders. These parties go to war almost every summer, and some- times muster three or four hundred horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in approaching the foe, exercise all the cau- tion of the most skilful generals ; and whenever either party considers that it has gained the best ground, or finds it ean surprise the other, the attack is made. They advance at once to close quarters, and the slaughter is consequently great, though the battle may be short. The prisoners of either sex are seldom spared, but slain on the spot with wanton cruelty. The dead are scalped, and he is consi- dered the bravest person who bears the greatest number of scalps from the field. These are afterwards attached to his war dress, and worn as proofs of his prowess. The victori- ous party, during a certum time, blacken their faces and every part of their dress in token of joy, and in that state they often come to the establishment, if near, to testify their delight by dancing and singing, bearing all the horrid in- signia oi war, to display their individual feats. When in mourning, they completely cover their dress and hair with white mud. On the sixth of February the party accompanied Mr. Pru- dens to an encampment of Cree Indians, about six milea from the house. The largest tent belonged to the chief, who gave them a hearty welcome. Fresh grass was spread oD the ground, and buffalo skins placed for them to sit on. After a short conversation the English party invited the iL'Uans to smoke the calumet, upon which others joined the party, and the women and children retired, as was always the custom on such occasions. The calumet having been lighted, on being handed to the chief, he pointed with it to the four cardinal points, and taking three whift gave the calumet to the Indian who sat next him ; this person having taken the same cumber of whifls handed it to the next and thus it went round. After this some spirits mixed with P. V. 18. H H H ,mj- <■ 418 rRANKLIN'i J0URT4EY r »■ -h. {!' h\ I water were Iianded to the chief, on receiving which he ad- dressed a prayer to the Great Spirit that he would cause plenty of buffaloes to come into their pound, that they all might enjoy health, and also other blessings. In the course of his supplications, his companions frequently exclaimed aha ! Having concluded his address, he drank of the liquor and passed it to the next, and it went round as before. When these ceremonies were concluded, the whole party indulged more freely in smoking and drinking as suited their inclina- tions. One individual Indian however not indulging in tiiese pursuits, was ridiculed for his forbearance ; but it appeared by the statement of the residents at Carlton House, that his conduct as a hunter, and in all his dealings, was most con- sistent and upright, and that his refraining from a participa- tion of these indulgences was in consequence of his convic- tion of their injurious tendency. During the above visit some Stone Indians arrived, and were invited to partake of the entertainment. Captain Franklin being considered by these people as a considerable chief, took upon himself to harangue them on the n'ecessity of their being kind to the traders, and in being careful to pro- vide them with provisions and skins. He also required them not to comtnit thefts, and said that if they attended to his ad- vice he would mention their conduct to their Great Father (by which they understand the king of Great Britain), and that in so doing they would acquire his esteem and friend- ship. To this advice they all attentively listened and pro- mised to pay due attention to it. Having finished this address, the English party went to visit different tents and also the bufialo pound. This pound was a fenced circular space of about a hundred yards in diameter ; the entrance was banked up with snow, to a sufficient height to prevent the retreat of the animals that oivce have entered. For about a mile on each side of the road leading to the pound, stakes were driven into the ground at nearly equal distances of about twenty yards ; these were \ TO THE POLAR MUX. 419 intended to represent men, and to deter the auunals from attempting to break out on either side. Within fifty or sixty yards from the pound, branches of trees were placed between these stakes to screen the Indians, who lie down behind them to await the approach of the buffalo. ■■ . , }, ' The principal dexterity in this species '>f r^ ' is shewn by the horsemen, who have to manoei •• rou> \e herd in the plains so as to urge them to enter the roadway, which is about a quarter of a mile broad. When this has been accomplished, they raise loud shouts, and, pressing close upon the animak, so terrify them that they rush heedlessly forward towards the snare. When they have advanced as far as the men who are lying in ambush, they also rise, and increase the consternation by violent shouting and firing guns. The affrighted beasts having no alternative, run directly to the pound, where they are quickly despatched, either with an arrow or gun. Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised with suc- cess. A hunter mqunted on horseback, on seeing a herd of buffalos, will select one individual and strive to separate him from the rest. When he hath accomplished this, he will pre- vent his joining the herd again, and when he finds that he has approached sufficiently near he fires at the beast and it is seldom he misses wounding the animal. Considerable dan- ger accompanies this pursuit ; for when closely pressed the buffalo will turn suddenly upon his pursuer, attack the horse and sometimes dismount the rider. Another mode of kil- ling the buffalo is by approaching the herd on foot, unper- ceived, which requires much caution, as if the person be noticed they take to flight. This animal is of an uncouth shape, with shaggy curling hair about the head, especially in the bull buffalos. A party of Stone Indians being encamped in this neigh- bourhood, several of the party expressed a wish to pay them a visit, but were dissuaded by the traders informing them II H II 3 rii ij ' '* ^ miw ■ ! . -C -\ '»« , ' i )k 490 rRANKLIN'S JOURNEY that they were suffering under the hooping cough and mea- sles, which the Indians believed to have been introduced among them by some of the people belonging to the Com- pany ; in which case it was not improbable that these savages might seek revenge by the death of some of the party. These diseases had carried off nearly three hundred of the Indians. Carlton House is situated on a flat ground within a short distance of the river. The land produces wheat, barley, potatoes and oats. The object of this station is to obtain a depot of provisions, which is converted into pemmican and forms the principal support of those agents of the Company who pass this way. The mode of making pemmican is as fol- lows : the wheat is dried by a fire or in the sun ; it is then pounded, and the proportion of one third of melted fat ig added to it and well mixed. It is then put into leathern bags and closely pressed down, after which it is put into a cool place to be used as emergencies may require. In this state it vill remain fit for use for a year and sometimes for a much greater length of time. At La Montee, adjoining Carlton House, the station of the North-west Company, there were about one hundred and thirty persons, men, women and children, who consumed upwards of seven hundred pounds of buffalo meat daily. Each man had an allowance of eight pounds. It must be noticed however that they had no con or vegetables. Having rested for a few days at Carlton House, on the ninth of February the party set forwards on their journey to Isle a la Crosse. They received from the agents of both the Hudson's Bay and North-west Company, such a supply of provisions and other necessaries as they required. On the tenth, after ascending a hill and passing through a wood, they came in view of Lake Iroquois. On their road they came to the remains of an Indian hut, adjoining to which was a pile of wood. The Canadian Indians belonging to the party, supposing that provisions were buried under th Qican is as fol- an ; it is then f melted fat is ,o leathern bags tito a coolp\ace this state it ^ill les for a much oining Carlton ny, there ^ete en, women and mndred pounds iwance of eight Ley had no com TO THB POLAR SUA. 421 pile, determined to search for them ; but instead of provi- sions they found the body of a female wrapped in leather, and which apparently had not been long interred. A fishing line, a hatchet, a dish and the clothes she had formerly worn, were placed beside the body. On the fourteenth they came to a beaten track, and soon met an Indian of the Iroquois nation who belonged to a party that were procuring pro- visions and furs for the North-west Company. On arriv- ing at the place where his stores were preserved, he invited the party to spend the day, which however they declined. The Canadians, whose voracious appetites were alwa^d craving, received a present from him before they parted. One of the sledges had been so much broken as to become useless, and the loading was divided among the others. The same day they fell into another track, which shortly brought them to some Indian huts of the Cree nation, who were hunting for beavers. On the sixteenth they met an Indian and his family who had just left Green Lake ; and as they described the road as well beaten. Captain Franklin and his party resolved to attempt reaching it before they encamped; but notwithstand- ing their utmost efforts they were not able t6 reach this post until the following day to breakfast. On their arrival they were very kindly received by Mr. Macfarlane, who was in charge of the house occupied by the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. The party afterwards paid a visit to Mr. Dugald Cameron, who resided at a station occupied by the North- west Company on the opposite side of the river. This gen- tleman received the party with expressions of the greatest kindness, and honoured them with a salute of small arms. These establishments are small, but said to be well situated for procuring furs; as the numerous creeks in their vicinity are much resorted to by the beaver, otter, and musquash. The residents usually obtain a superabundant supply of pro- vision. This season, however, they barely had sufficient for their own support, owing to an epidemic which incapacitated V , !1 IH W' 1 tf /c'' 43d franklin's journby r: ■ 'A md w^ j the Indians for IiuntinjB^. The Green Lake lies nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in length, and does not exceed one mile and a half of breadth in any part. The water is deep, and it is in consequence one of the lust lakes in the country that is frozen. Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in it from March to December, but after that timo most of the fish remove to some larger lake. The party remained two days waiting the return of some men who had been sent to the Indian lodges for meat. They dined with Mr. Cameron, and received from him manv useful suggestions respecting their future operations. This gentleman having stated that provisions would, probably, be very scarce next spring in the Athabasca department, in consequence of the sickness of the Indians during the hunt- ing season, undertook to cause a supply of pemmican to be conveyed from the Saskatchawan to Isle a la Crosse for use during winter, and Captain Franklin wrote to apprize Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they would find it at the latter post when they passed; and also to desire them to bring as murh as the canoes would stow from Cumberland. On the twentieth, having been supplied with provisions and all necessary articles, the party set forward on their journey. On taking their departure they were honoured with a salute of iire arms, which was fired by the females, the men being all absent. They found the advantage of the necessary articles they had just received at t^e Green Lake; and wrapped up in their buffalo skins, and seated in their carioles, or sledges, they proceeded on their journey through the whole of the day, notwithstanding the weather was ex- tremely cold. On tlie twenty-third they received t. supply of provisions, which Mr. Clark, the resident agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at Lake a la Crosse, had sent for them, which place they reached the same evening. Mr. Clark gave the party a most hearty welcome, receiving them under a lire of small arms; and Mr. Bcthunc, who was in charge ol' a TO THE rOLAR UUK. 423 ies nearly north loe» not exceed The water is lAHt lakes in the r and trout are after that time ,e return of some 5 for meat. They from him many operations. This )uld, probably, be :a department, in s during the hunt- »f pemmican to be 1 la Crosse for use ote to apprize Dr. ould find it at tho to desire them to rom Cumberland, ied with provisions „ forward on their ley were honoured ed by the females, le advantage of the t the Green Lake; nd seated in their ■ir journey through e weather was ex- pply of provisions, ]the Hudson's Bay [nt for them, which Jr. Clark gave the hem under a live of [as in charge of a house occupied by the North-west Company, manifested aii equally kind disposition. These establishments are situated on the southern side of the lake, and close to each other. They are forts of con- siderable importance, being placed at a point of commuui- catioD with the English River, the Athabasca, and Colum- bia districts. The country around them is low, and inter- sected with water, and was formerly much frequented by beavers and otters, which, however, have been so much hunted by the Indians, that their number is greatly decreas- ed. The Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come except in the spring and autumn; in the former season to bring their winter's collection of furs, and in the latter to get the stores they require. Three Chipewyan lads arrived during their stay, to report what furs the band to which they belonged had collected, and to desire they might be sent for; the Indians having de- clined bringing either furs or meat themselves, since the opposition between the Companies commenced. Isle a la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island situated near the forts, on which the Indians formerly as- sembled annually to amuse themselves at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen pounds. The re- sidents live principally upon this most delicious fish, which fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is plentifully caught with nets throughout the year, except for two or three months. On the 5th they recommenced their journey, having been supplied with the means of conveyance by both the Com- panies in equal proportions. Mr. Clark accompanied the party with the intention of going as far as the boundary of iiis district. This gentleman Avas an experienced winter traveller, and caused the men to arrange the encampment m ii ^i If 424 PRATtKLlN'fl JOURNRY i ! i with more attention to comfort and shelter tlian their furmer companions had done. On the seventh of March they arrived at a houae belong- ing to the North-west Company and received a hearty wel- come from Mr. Mac Murray, one of the partners. This post is frequented by only a few Crees and Chipewyans. Tho country round is not sufficiently stocked with animals to afford dupport to many families, and the traders subsist almost entirely upon fish caught in the autumn, prior to the lake being frozen; but the water being shallow, they remove to a deeper part, as soon as the lake is covered with ice. Mr. Mac Murray gave a dance to his voyagers and the women; a treat which they expect on the arrival of any stranger at the post. On the tenth the party set fo. ward on their journey, and following in a beaten path made considerable progress Passing the Methye Lake they came to a trading post occu- pied by some of the hunters. On the thirteenth Mr. Clark took his leave of the party, and set out on his return to hig residence near Isle k la Crosse. Crossing a small lake, they gradually ascended hills beyond it, until they arrived at the summit of a lofty chain of mountains commanding the most picturesque and romantic prospects. Two ranges of high bills ran parallel to each other for several miles, until the faint blue haze bid their particular characters, when they slightly changed their course, and were lost to the view. The space between them is occupied by nearly a level plain, through which a river pursues a meandering course, and re- ceives supplies from the creeks and rills issuing from the mountains on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid the snow, and though marked with all the cheerless characters of winter. Crossing the Cascade Portage, which is the last on the way to the Athabasca Lake, they came to some Indian tents, containing iive families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. h TO TI1R POLAR 8RA. 425 an their former i house belong- ad a hearty wel- ners. This pont lipewyani. Thu animals to afford 8 subsist almoit irior to the lake they remove to a with ice. voyagers and the be arrival of any their journey, and iderable progress trading post occu- irteenth Mr. Clark on his return to lus 5 a small lake, they they arrived at the nmanding the most ^0 ranges of high .al miles, untU the racters, when they ) lost to the vie^. learlyalevelphuB, tng course, and re- us issuing from the Iwas delightful even all the cheerless , ig the last on the I some Indian tents, Chipewyan tribe. They imokod tko calumot in the chiefs tent, whoso name wot the Thumb, and distributed some tobucco and u weak mixtare of spirits and water among the men. Thoy received this civility with much less grace than the Creea, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. There was an utter neglect of cleanliness, and a total want of comfort in their tents ; and the poor creatures were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied Captain Franklin from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in this forlorn condition by ex- plaining, that this band of Indians had recently destroyed every tiling thoy possessed, as u token of their great grief for the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears that no article is spared by these unhappy men when a near relatives dies; their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their guns broken, and every other weapon rendered useless, if some person do not remove these articles from (lieir sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back sketched one I of the children, which delighted the father very much, who charged the boy to be very gpod, since his picture had been I drawn by a great chief. On the 16th they coAie to some Indian lodges, which be- I longed to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun, and his family, consisting of five hunters, their wives and children. [They were delighted to see the party, and when the object [of the expedition had been explained to them, expressed llhemselves much interested in the progress. The party jsmoked with them, and gave each person a glass of mixed pirits and some tobacco. A Canadian servant of the North- west Company, who was residing with them, said that this y had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction ^f property, which had been made after their deaths, was lie only cause for the pitiable condition in wliich they now lere, as the whole family were industrious hunters, and kerefore, were usually better provided with clothes, and Iher useful articles, than most of the Indians. They pur- jiased a pair of snow- shoes, in exchange for some ammuni- V. 18. I I I .! i 42(i FRANKLINS JOURNEY J^' tion. The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and easy to walk in ; some were upwards of six feet long, and three broad. With these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the spring, when there is a crust on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or red deer. Oa the 18th they met two persons belonging to the es- tablishment at Pierre au Calumet; and following the track, proceeded with expedition, although the weather was stormy, and on the following day arrived at the station occupied by the North-west Company, Mr. Stuart, one of the partners, resided at this post, and received the party with marks of great kindness. This gentleman having travelled across the country until he reached the Pacific Ocean, was well quali- fied to give advice with respect to the best modes of travel- ling, and to state the obstacles in the way. His passage tj the Pacific had been by the river Columbia, so that he was not acquainted with the road Captain Franklin was now pur- suing farther than the Great Slave Lake. His opinion was, however, that satisfactory information might be obtained from the Indians residing on the western side of the Great Slave Lake, who visited the forts in the spring. Mr. Stuart said j that it was not very likely any of the Canadians would be i prevailed on to accompany the Captain to the sea, as the j Esquimaux were very hostile, and had killed a party were sent to open a traffic with them; he said, however, that every endeavour should be used on his part to aid the | purposes of the expedition. Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the place where I the stone is procured, of which many of the pipes usedtyl the Canadians and Indians are made. It is a clayey lime-l stone, impregnated with various shells. The house, which ill built on the summit of a steep bank, rising almost perpenili-l cular to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, coii-l mands dn extensive prospect along this fine river, and ovetl the plains which stretch out several miles at the back of iJ bounded by hills of considerable height, and apparentlJ k aking tViem good six feet long, and an active hunter, he surface of the jlonging to the es- jllov?ing the track, eather was stormy, station occupied by sne of the partners, )arty with marks of travelled across the ean, was well quali- est modes of travel- ray. His passage to ftbia, so that he was ranklin was now pur- e. His opinion was, ightbe obtained from le of the Great Slave 10-. Mr. Stuart said I Canadians would be tn to the sea, as tbe killed a party wk ...; he said, however, [ jonhis part to aid the I from the place wheie I of the pipes usedljl It is a clayey tal The house, whicliB jising almost perpenfr \xnA eighty feet, cob- L fine river, and ovetl lilesatthebackofiJ light, and appatenlli TO THB POLAR SEA. 437 better furnished with wood than the neighbourhood of the fort, where the trees grow very scantily. On the 22nd they proceeded on their journey to Fort Chipewyan, at which place they hoped to be able to arrange the plans for their further progress. On the 34th, they joined an Indian who was carrying meat on his sledge to Fort Chipewyan. His sledge though heavily laden (having nearly three hundred pounds weight on it) was drawn by only two dogs. The weather was extremely stormy and compelled the party to encamp. On the 26th, they arrived at Fort Chipewyan, where they received a hearty welcome from Messrs. Black and Keith, two partners of the North- west Company residing at this post. The distance from Cumberland House to Chipewyan Fort was nearly nine hundred miles, which Captain Franklin and his party had now travelled in the depth of winter; oftentimes having to quit the carioles and walk ia snow shoes, weighing perhaps three pounds in addition to the incumbrance they otherwise I produce. On the following day the Captain and Mr. Back waited ouMr. Macdonald, who occupied the post of the Hudson's Bay Company. At this post they made enquiries as to the means of reaching the Coppermine River. One of the In- I dian servants of the North-west Company, who had been on that river, described several particulars of the coast; and Captain Franklin after this wrote to the gentlemen in charge of the posts at the Great Slave Lake, to communicate the [object of the expedition, and to solicit any information they Ipossessed, or could collect from the Indians, relative to the Icountriesto be passed through, and the best manner of pro- ceeding. As the Copper Indians frequent the establish- oent on the north side of the lake, they . ere requested to Explain to them the object of the visit, and to endeavour |o procure from them some guides and hunters to accom- pny the party. Mr. Dease, a gentleman belonging to the establishment of I I I 2 M ill 'ffl-^*^'; M Mr I :i ■- H * ■i It f r t. . " : n 428 franklin's journey 1 \h . 'i the North-west Company, having passed several winters on the Mackenzie's River, and at the posts to the northward ol Slave Lake, possessefl considerable information respectinff the Indians, and those parts of the country, which he very promptly and kindly communicated. During this conversa- tion an old Gbipewyan Indian, named the Rabbit's Head, entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease referred for infor- mation on some point. He stated that he was the step-son of the late Chief Matonnabee, who had accompanied Mr, Heame on his journey to the sea, and that he had himself been of the party, but being then a mere boy, he had for- gotten many of the circumstances. He confirmed however, the leading incidents related by Heame, and was positive he reached the sea, though he admitted that none of tho party had tasted the water. He represented himself to be the only survivor of the party. The second week in May they were gratified with the sight of the flower anemone. The trees began to shoot; rain frequently descended ; and the advance of the Spring was every way denoted. Captain Frapklin now thoaglit it necessary to prepare for his departure, and requested the | advice of the different gentlemen who superintended the | concerns of both the Companies at this place. He fouiid j however such a spirit of hostility between the agents of the two Companies, that in order to avoid hurting the feeling I of either, he directed a tent to be pitched at a short distance i from the settlements, and then invited the gentlemen con- 1 nected with each Company to a conference. They all rea accepted his invitation, and gave such answers to his varioul enquiries as was in the compass of their knowledge. Afteil this Captain Franklin requested the agents of each CompaiJ to supply him with eight men each, and also to furnish ceil tain stores which he named. To his mortification be n\ informed that there had been such an expenditure of goo( lis (o leave them (he means of furnishing only a partial sii| V'l TO THE I'OLAU SEA. 429 \^ 3veral winters on the northward ot nation respecting ry, which he very ng this conversa- B Rabhit's Head, referred for infor- e was the step-son accompanied Mr. ;hat hfc had himself e boy, he had for- jonfirmed however, e, and was positive d that none of tbo mted himself to be . jrratified with the 568 began to shoot; mnce of the Spring ^klin now tliouglit and requested tlie superintended tlie place. He found en the agents of the I hurting the feelings jd at a short distance the gentlemen » ice. They all readij mswers to his variow ir knowledge. Aftfl ints of each CompaDil also to furnish cei' mortification he n\ expenditure of ng only a partial sf ply ; and hardly a man appeared willing to engage in the journey of discovery. On the third of June, Mr. Smith, a partner of the North- west Company, arrived from the Great Slave Lake, bear- ing the welcome news that the principal Chief of the Copper Indians had received the communication of Captain Franklin's arrival with joy, and given all the intelligence he possessed respecting the rout to the sea-coast by the Copper- Mine River ; and that he and a party of his men, at the instance of Mr. Wentzel, a clerk of the North-west Company, whom they wished might go along with them, had engaged to accompany the expedition as guides and hunters. They were to wait at Fort Providence, on the north side of the Slave Lake. They had no doubt of being able to obtain the means of subsistence in travelling:' to the coast. This agreeable intelligence had a happy effect upon the Canadian voyagers, many of their fears being removed : several of them seemed now disposed to volunteer ; and, on the same evening, two men from the North-west Company offered themselves and were accepted. On the lifth Captain Franklin and Mr. Back waited on Mr. Robertson, superintending Fort Wedderburne, belong- ing to the Hudson's Bay Company. He stated that not- withstanding his endeavours to persuade them, his most experienced voyagers still declined engaging without very exorbitant wages. After some hesitation, six men, who were represented to be active and steady were engaged ; Mr. Ro- bertson also gave permission to St. Germain, an inter- preter belonging to this Company, to accompany them from Slave Lake if he should choose. The bow-meii and steers- men were to receive one thousand six hundred livres Ha- lifax per uiuiuni, and the middle men one thousand two hundred, exclusive of their necessary equipments; and they stipulated that their wages should be continued until their arrival in Montreal, or their rejoining the service of their present eniploy«?rs. Five men were afterward engaged S' ■'•: ■ i f> t ,. ■ r ' ? » I , /■ t-f i I w 430 franklin's journey •: » 1 1 from the North-west Company, for the same wages, and under the same stipulations as the others, besides an inter- preter for the Copper ludians ; but this man required three thousand livres Halifax currency, which they were obliged to give him, as his services were iadispensible. The residents of these establishments depend for sub- sistence almost entirely on the fish which this lake affords ; they are usually caught in suOicient abundance throughout the winter, though at the distance of eighteen miles from the houses ; on the thawing of the ice, the fish remove into smaller lakes, and the rivers on the south shore. Though they are nearer to the forts than in winter, it frequently happens that high winds prevent the canoes from transporting them thither, and the residents are kept in consequence without a supply of food for two or three days together. The fisu caught in the net are the attihhawmegh, trout, carp, methye, and pike. The traders also get supplied by the hunters with buffalo and moose deer meat, (which animals are found at some distance from the forts,) but the greater part of it is either in a dried state, or pounded ready for mak- ing pemmican ; but is required for the men who keep travel- ling during the winter to collect the furs from the Indians, and for the crews of the canoes on their outward passage to the depots in spring. There was a great want of provisions this season, and both the Companies had much difficulty to provide a bare sufficiency for their different brigades of canoes. At the opening of the water in spring, the Indians resort to the establishments to settle their accounts with the traders, and to procure the necessaries they require for the summer. This meeting is generally a scene of much riot and confusion, as the hunters receive such quantities of spirits as to keep them in a state of intoxication for several days. This spring-, however owing to the great deficiency of spirits, they m crc generally sober. They belong to the great family of the Chipewyan, or Northern, Indians ; dialects of llu-ir Ianp,uap(! B wages, and ides an inter- equired three ere obliged to pend for sub- i lake affords ; ce throughout en miles from h remove into hore. Though , it frequently om transporting in consequence s together. avmegb. ^ro^^ get supplied by ;, (which anunals but the greater d ready for mak- rho keep travel- from the Indians, |tward passage to int of provisions uch difficulty to lent brigades of TO THE POLAR SRA. 431 being spoken in the Peace and Mackenzie's Rivers, and by the populous tribes in New Caledonia, as ascertained by Sir Alexander Mackenzie in his journey to the Pacific. They style themselves generally Dinneh men, or Indians, but each tribe, or horde, adds some distinctive epithet taken from the name of the river, or lake, on which they hunt, or the dis- trict from which they last migrated. Those who come to Fort Chipewyan term themselves Saw-eessaw-dinneh, (In- dians from the rising sun, or Eastern Indians,) their original hunting grounds being between the Athabasca, and Great Slave Lake, and Churchill River. This district, more par- ticularly termed the Chipewyan lands, or barren country, is frequented by numerous herds of rein-deer, which furnish easy subsistence, and clothing to the Indians ; but i,ae traders endeavour to keep them in the parts to the westward, where the beavers resort. There are about one hundred and sixty hunters who carry their furs to the Great Slave Lake, forty to Hay River, and two hundred and forty to Fort Chipewyan. A few Northern Indians also resort to the posts at the bottom of the Lake of the Hills, on Red Deer Lake, and to Churchill. The distance, however, of the latter post from their hunting grounds, and the sufferings to which they are exposed in going thither from want of food, have induced those who were formerly accustomed to visit it, to convey their furs to some nearer station. On the thirteenth of July, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood arrived from Cumberland House, with two canoes. They made an expeditious journey from Cumberland, notwith- standing they were detained near three days in consequence of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen, by the upsetting of a canoe in a strong rapid. These gentlemen brought all the stores they could procure from the establishments at Cumberland and Isle a la Crosse ; and at the latter place they had received ten bags of pemmican from the North- west Company, which proved to be mouldy, and so totally nufit for use, that it was left at the Methye Portage. They f^i ,||i,'»\!j ,.. I 1 1, I 1. h;H=V-i iM-;\ Ml 43d franklin's journry ; .i • i < I got none from the Hudson's Bay post. The voyagers be- longing to that Company being destitute of provision, Imd eaten what was intended for Captain Franklin's party. In consequence of these untoward circumstances, the canoes arrived with only one day's supply of this most essential ttr- ticle. The prospect of having to commence their journey from hence, almost destitute of provisions, and scantily sup- plied with stores, was very discouraging. It was evident, however, that any unnecessary delay here would have been very imprudent, as Fort Chipewyan did not, at the present time, furnish the means of subsistence for so large a party, mucli less was there a prospect of receiving any supply to carry them forward. They, therefore hastened to make the necessary arrangements for a speedy departure. All the stores were demanded that could possibly be spared from both the esta- blishments ; and when this collection was added to the ar- ticles that had been brought up by the canoes, they had a sufficient quantity of clothing for the equipment of the men who had been engaged here, as well as to furnish a present to the Indians, besides some few goods for the winter's con- sumption; but they could not procure any ammunition, which was the most essential article, nor spirits, and but little to- bacco. They then made a final arrangement respecting the voya- gers, who were to accompany the party ; and, fortunately, there was no difficulty in doing this, as Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the precaution to bring up ten men from Cumberland, who engaged to proceed forward if their services were required. The Canadians whom they brought, were most desirous of being continued. When the numbers were completed, it was found to consist of sixteen Canadian voyagers, one English attendant, John Hepburn, besides two interpreters whom they were to receive at the Great Slave Lake. They were also accompanied by a Chipewyan woman. An equipment of goods was given to each of the men who had been engaged at this place, similar to what had I,.. ^1 voyagers be- Tovision, had I's party. In 9, the canoes gt essential nr- their Journey 1 scantily sup- t was evident, Duld have been le present time, I a party, mucli ly to carry them ) the necessary the stores were m both the esta- added to the ar- noes, they had a ^ent of the men furnish a present the -winter's con- nmunition, which and but little to- pecting the voya- and, fortunately, Richardson and ing up ten men 1 forward if their om they brought, hen the numbers jixteen Canadian aepburn, besides feive at the Great by a Cbipewyan en to each of the Lilar to what had TO THE POLAR SEA. 433 been furnished to the others at Cumberland ; and when this distribution had been made, the remainder were made up into bales, preparatory to their departure, on the following day. While Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson were at Cum- berland Fort, waiting until the Spring was more advanced, they took measures for a proper supply of necessaries. Mr. Hood made an excursion to the Basquiau Hill, situated about fifty miles to the southward of Cumberland House, but which may be seen from thence. Two men, who were going to that place to procure provisions, accompanied him. After travelling two days the party arrived at a hunting tent of the Indians. ~ The state of the weather compelled them to remain several days at this place, during which some other Indians arrived, one of whom was nam the Warrior. These people having an encampment about t< miles distant, Mr. Hood paid them a visit the next day. W en he entered the tent, the Indians spread a buffalo robe boibre the fire, and desired him to sit down. Some were eating, others sleeping', many of them without any covering except the breech cloth and a blanket over the shoulders, a state in Tfhich -they love to indulge themselves till hunger drives them forth to the chase. Besides the Wanior's family, there was that of another hunter named Long-legs, whose bad success in hunting had reduced him to the necessity of feed- ing on moose leather for three weeks, when* he was compas- sionately relieved by the .Warrior. They invited the party to dine, and they witnessed the mode of preparing the repast. They cut into pieces a portion of fat meat, using for that purpose a knife and their teeth. It was boiled in a kettle, and served in a platter made of birch bark, from which, being dirty, they had peeled the surface. Mr. Hood engaged five Canadians, who were to continue with the party until Captain Franklin should discharge them. [They required, however, that in case of meeting with Captain P. V. 19. K K K I 'VMi'l^ ii * if MMm] 4M pbanklin's journey i\ Parry they should not be compelled to embark with him, go fearful were they of being conveyed on board a ship of war. Ml things being prepared, Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and the various servants attached, took their departure from Cumberland House on the 13th, and on the following evenbg reached Beaver Lake. On the eighteenth, sailing along the river Missinippi, they crossed the Otter portage, where that river runs with great velocity. In attempting to draw the canoes along the shore, one of them, in which were two of the servants, overset and was carried down the current. One them, named Louis Saint Jean, the foreman, was lost, the other man reached the bank of the river with difficulty and was saved. The sufferings which the party endured from the sting of the musquitoes is described as most acute. Some- times they closed the tent and burnt wood, or set fire to gunpowder, that the smoke might drive them away; but no efforts were effectual entirely to disperse them ; they swarmed in the blankets and drew blood with their piercing trunks so as deeply to stain their clothes. In addition to this they had to endure the sting of the horse-fly and the sand-fly, so that their bodies were in constant pain. After undergoing many privations and passing through many difficulties, Dr. Richaid- ion, Mr. Hood, and the servants they had engaged, arrived at Fort Chipewyan as noticed before, and they had the satisfaction of meeting Captain Franklin and their who had seated themselves on the floor, he commenced his harangue, by mentioning the circumstances that led to his agreeing to accompany the expedition, an en- gagement which he was qui^e prepared to fulfil. He was rejoiced, he said, to see such great chiefs on his lands; his tribe were poor, but they loved white men who had been their benefactors; and he hope 1 that the visit would be pro- ductive of much good to them. It was at first rumoured, he said, that a great medicine chief accompanied the party, who was able to restore the dead to life ; at this he rejoiced ; the prospect of again seeing his departed relatives had enlivened his spirits, but his first communication with Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes, and he felt as if bis friends had a second time been torn from him. He now wished to be in- formed exactly of the nature of the expedition. In reply to this speech, M'hich had been prep^Med for many (lays, Captain Franklin endeavoured to explain the objects of the mission in a manner best calculated to ensure his exer- tions in the service. With this view, says Captain Franklin, , I told him that we were sent out by the greatest chief in the world, who was the sovereign also of the trading companies in the country; that he was the friend of peace, and had the interest of every nation at heart. Having learned that his children in the north, were much in want of articles of mer- chandize, in consequence of the extreme length and difficulty of the present route, he had sent us to search for a passage by the sea, which if found, would enable large vessels to ll It a . •■ h ?V ! I. "f ' '. I' :. 4. W.r', i i »'■ fl 418 rRANKLINl JOURNKY tranaport greot quantities of goods more easily to their lands That we had not come for the purpose of traffic, but lolelv to make discoveries for their benefit, us well as that of every other people. That we had been directed to inquire into the nature of all the productions of the countries we might pas^ through, and particularly respecting thuir inhabitants. Tl^t we desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding ug, and providing us with food ; finally, thai, we were most positively onjoined by the great chief to recommend that hostilities should cease throughout this country ; and especially between the Indians and the Esquimaux, whom ho considered as children, in common Vith other natives ; and by way of en- forcing the latter point more strongly, I assured him tliat a forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anticipated from the expedition would be a certain consequence if any quarrel arose between his party and the Esquimaux. I also communicated to him that owing to the distance we hadtra- veiled, we had now few more stores than was necessary for the use of our own party ; a part of these however, should be forthwith presented to him ; on his return he and his party should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, tobacco, and some useful iron materials, besides having their'^debts to the North-west Company discharged. The chief, whose name was Akaitcho or Big-foot, replied by a renewal of his assurances, that he and his party would attend them to the end of the journey, and that they would do their utmost to provide them with the means of subsist- ence. He admitted that his tribe had made war upon the Esquimaux, but said, they were now desirous of peace, aiid unanimous in their opinion as to the necessity of all who ac- companied them abstaining from every act of enmity against that nation. He added, however, that the Esquimaux were very treacherous, and therefore recommended that they should advance towards them with caution. The communications which the chief and the guides then gave respecting the route to the Copper- Mine River, and iti TO THK POLAK SEA. 09 ly to their lands, traffic, but lolely I as that of every ) inquire into the 68 we might pass nhabitants. That II guiding us, and re most positively id that hostihties igpecially between he considered as nd by way of en- issured him that a ght be anticipated onsequence if any Isquimaux. I also stance we had tra- was necesftary for however, should be a he aud his party lition, tobacco, and their 'debts to the r Big-foot, replied nd his party would nd that they would 3 means of subust- lade war upon the irous of peace, and Bsity of all who ac- t of enmity against 16 Esquimaux were mended thai they • d the guides then fline River, and iti courie to the ae*, coincided in every material point with the statements which were made by others at Chipewyao, but they ditlered in their descriptions of the coast. The infor- nation, however, collected from both sources was very vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been more than three days' march along the sea-coast to the eastward of the river's mouth. Ai the water was unusually high this season, the Indian guides recommended going by a shorter route to the Copper Mine River than that they had first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and thoy assigned as a reason for the change, that the rein- deer would be sooner found upon this track. They then drew a chart of the proposed route on the floor with char- coal, exhibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending towards the north, about one half of them connected by a river which flows into Slave Lake, near Fort Providence, One of the guides, named Keskarrah, drew the Copper- Mine River running through the Upper Lake, in a westerly direction towards the Great Bear Lake, and then northerly to the sea. The other g^ide drew the river in a straight line to the sea from the above-mentioned placci but, after some dispute, admitted the correctness of the first delinea- tion. The latter was elder brother to Akaitcho, and he said that he had accompanied Mr. Heame on his journey, and though very young at the time, still remembered many of the circumstances, and particularly the massacre committed by the Indians on the Esquimaux. They pointed out another lake to the southward of the I river, about three days' journey distant from it, on which the chief proposed the next winter's establishment should be formed, as the rein-deer would pass there in the autumn and sprmg. Its waters contained fish, and there was a sufficiency I of wood for building as well as for the winter's consumption. I They could not say what time it would take in reaching the [lake, until they saw the manner of travelling in the large ^ Icanoes, but they supposed it would be about twenty days. 'V.. i » . I - ' X\ I .'i 440 franklin's journey ■ IN fl I Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all the in- formation they possessed on the different points to which questions had been directed, Captain Franklin placed a medal round the neck of the chief, and the officers presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two guides, commu- nicating to them that these marks of distinction were given as tokens of friendship. Being conferred in the presence of all the hunters, their acquisition was highly gratifying to them, but they studiously avoided any great expression of joy, because such an exposure would have been unbecoming' the dignity which the senior Indians assume during a confer- ence. They expressed themselves sensible of these tokens of regard, and that they should be preserved during their lives with the utmost care. The chief evinced much pene- tration and intelligence during the whole of this conversa- tion. He made many inquiries respecting the discovery ships, under the command of Captain Parry, which had been mentioned to him, and asked why a passage had not been discovered long ago, if one existed. The chief was desirous of being present, with his party, at a dance which was given in the evening to our Canadian voyagers. They were highly entertained by the vivacity and agility displayed by them in their singing and dancing ; and especially by their imitating the gestures of a Canadian, who placed himself in the most ludicrous postures; and, whenever this was done, the gravity of the chier gave way to violent bursts of laughter. In return for the gratification Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired his young men to exhibit the Dog- Rib Indian dance; and immediately they ranged themselves in a circle, and, keeping their legs widely separated, began to jump simul- taneously sideways; their bodies were bent, their hands placed on their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec- tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their attitudes of grace, and their music of harmony, the novelty of the exhi- bition was amusing. \ .A TO THK FOLAR SEA. 441 The custom of dispersing and destroying the musquitoes, bv ligl»ti"8^ fi^'^s ^°<1 leaving the coals to burn, was attended fl-ith a very serious accident. The tent in which Captain Franklin slept caught fire and was entirely consumed. j\. quantity of powder was stowed in the tent, and Hepburn was sleeping within it. He awoke just in time to throw the pow- der out of the tent, and to preserve the baggage ; otherwise this circumstance would have put an end to the further pro- gress of the expedition. On the first day of August the Indians quitted Fort Provi- dence, and proceeded to the entrance of Yellow Knife Ri- ver. After their departure the stores were made up into packages of about eighty pounds for the convenience of con- veyance. In this arrangement the absence of the Indians was indispensably necessary, as they were always begging every article which came under their notice. The expedition now consisted of the following persons, to- gether with three females, the wives of the voyagers. John Franklin, lieutenant of the royal navy and commander. John Richardson, M.D., surgeon of the royal navy. Mr. George Back, of the royal navy, midshipman. Mr. Robert Hood, of the royal navy, midshipman. Mr. Frederick Wentzel, clerk to the Nor th- West Company John Hepburn, English seaman. ,. I ^'l Interpreters. Pierre St. Germain, Ctiipewyan Bois Brules. Jean Bap tiale Adam, Canadian Voyagers. \ Joseph Peltier, Gabriel Beauparlant, Matthew Pelonquin.dit Credit, Vincenza Fontano, I SolomoD Belanger, Registe Vaillant, { Joseph Benoit, Jean Baptiste Parent, P. V. 19. L L L P'i^ 442 franklin's journey '^. I jf-'l I !■ / i I Joseph Gagne, Pierre Dumas, Joseph Forcier, Tgnace PerrauU, Francois Samandre. Jean Baptiste Belanger, ' Jean Baptiste Belleau, Emanuel Cournoyee, Michel Teroahaut6, an Iroquois. On the 2nd of August the party encamped at about eight miles distance from Fort Providence, and on the following day arrived at the entrance of Yellow Knife River, where they found Akaitcho and his party with theii: families. They mustered a fleet of seventeen canoes, and the whole party proceeded together up the River. Akaitcho endeavoured to sustain the importance of his character, and was rowed by a youth whom he made captive ; when however he was sc far from observation as to admit it, he laid aside his importance, and aided by his personal-exertions in paddling the canoe. Several of the canoes were paddled by women. In crossing a portage, the Indians had much the superiority ; the men carried the canoes, and the women and children the clothes, so that they soon accomplished their journey ; while those of the Expedition had to make four journeys to convey their canoes and stores. At night, on encamping, the men were divided into different watches for the night, with an of- ficer attached to each watch. This was done for security of the property, and to manifest to the Indians that no oppor- tunity could occur for dishonest attempts ; and Akaitcho, the | chief, observing the systematic efforts pursued for their pro- tection, declared that he should be without apprehension of I danger from the Esquimaux, as no opportunity could occur when the party might be surprised. On the 5th, an issue was made of the last portion of dried I meat in their possession ; and a few pounds of preserved meatj and some portable soup was all that remained. To suppljl their future wants, the hunters were sent forward to shooti t he rein deer which usually frequented a place they were ap-l lib TO THE POL,AR SBA. 443 at about eigk tt tlie following i River, where families. They ;he wbole party (endeavoured to id was rowed by ver he was sc far e his importance, dling the canoe. len. ;h the superiority. a and children tlie sir 30urney ; while ourneys to convey camping, the men night, with an of- one for security of ans that no oppor- and Akaitcho, tte I fsuedfortheirpio-| out apprehension of j rtunity could occ\it| last portion of driedl Is of preserved Bwatl lained. To sup"'' ,nt forward to shoot] place they were ap-l preaching. Akaitcho also informed them that gome lakes which they would soon approach abounded with fish. The voyagers began to complain that they could not proceed with the scanty subsistence which was now given them. In the of the seventh, the dry moss where they were encamped, nii by some accident took fire, and they imrroAv ly escaped losing great part of their canoes and baggage. Arriving at Carp Lake, which the Indians said was very productive of fish, they resolved to rest for a day or two to af- ford the opportunity of recruiting their supply of provisions. The chief and all the Indians went forwards to endeavour to procure some rein-deer, and the nets produced a sufiicient quantity of fish to give the whole party some hearty meals. Being refreshed by this supply they proceeded on the ele- venth, and received the agreeable information that the hun- ters who were in advance had obtained a supply of rein-deer. Tiiis was a most welcome account, as the Canadians had ex- pressed great discontent at having so scanty a supply of food, and complained that they had been led into a country where there were no means of subsistence. On the 14th they entered Hunters' Lake, situated in lat. sixty-fonrdeg. six min. and in long, one hundred and thirteen deg. twenty-five min. The hunters brought in more meat this evening, but the nets produced scarcely any fish. On the following day they received no less than seventeen deer, 80 that a sufiicient store was now obtained for some days to come. Akaitcho now proposed that he and his hunters should proceed towards Winter Lake to procure a fresh store of pro- visions against the arrival of the party. He also desired the opportunity of providing clothing for himself and people. He accordingly was permitted to proceed. As the supply of provisions was now very abundant, and a prospect of its continuing so, the people resumed their cheer- fulness, and on the nineteeth the party arrived at a small lake to the westward of Winter Lake, where Akaitcho re- iconuaeuded them to take up their residence for tho winter Ll l2 I. 1 444 franklin's journey '>id : i: m It being Sunday, divine service was performed as usual when opportunity offered. The distance from Fort Chipewyan, which the party had travelled was nearly six hundred miles • and the servants in Conveying the stores across the portages had walked upwards of one hundred and fifty miles. As the party were expected to spend many months at this place, they set ahout erecting a place of residence, and thev gave to it the name of Fort Enterprise. Mr. Wentzel had the principal superintendance of this erection, and the build- ing Mas made as comfortable as the resources and circum- stances would admit. The party were the next day divided into two companies ; one company was to procure wood and erect a store-house, and the other company were to bring in the provisions As it was the intention of Captain Franklin to descend the Cop- per-mine River, he sent for the chief, who was huntinsf in the neiglibourhood, according as he had appointed on leaving the party some days preceding. On his-arrival how- ever it appeared that he had procured but few deer : for hav- ing heard of the death of his brother in law, several days had been spent in lamentations on that account. He also refused to accompany the party to the Copper-mine River, saying that the winter was too far advanced, that the rein-deer had left the river, and that provisions would not be to be pro. cured. Captain Franklin still asserting that he should make the attempt, Akaitcho said that it should not be laid to their | charge that their visitors were suffered to go alone; and al- though it did appear to him that the journey would be at the I peril of their lives, yet that some of his young men shouWl accompany the party. Captain Franklin assured the chiefl that he, in common with all his companions, was solicitous fori the welfare of all that accompanied them ; but that it vasi of importance to obtain some correct knowledge of thatriverl in order that in their next dispatches to the Great Cljiel (the King of Great Britain) they might state some particulanj respecting it, Akaitcho, after all, appeared so greatly to ot .\ , two companies; ■ct a store-house, 5 provisions As descend the Cop- tio was hunting in ad appointed on 3nhis.arriva\hoT- few deer : for b\- V, several days liad He also refused line River, sayin? t the rein-deer W not be to be pro- hat he should make not be laid to tliek r, go alone; andaV [ley wouldbeatttol young men shouWl n assured the chief IS, was solicitous foi m ; but that it vas vvledgeofthatrivetj the Great Chiei tate some particulanj red so greatly toot TO THJi POLAR SKA. 445 ject to th^ journey, that it was thought prudent to decline the attempt. On holding a conference with the officers on the subject, it was finally resolved that Mr. Back and Mr. Hood should be sent to explore those parts, in a light canoe. On the 25tli, John Hepburn, the Enghsh seaman, having gone out to hunt, a dense fog coming on, he missed the road, and not returning in the evening, the greatest anxiety pre- vailed for his safety. Nothing was heard of him on the fol- lowing day ; and on the twenty-seventh a party of Indians went in search of him. They fortunately succeeded, and brought him back the same evening, although he was much fatigued. He had been wandering about during the whole time, and had eaten only a partridge, and the tongue of a deer which he shot. After partaking of some food, and tak- ing rest, he recovered his usual health and strength. An eclipse being to take place about this time, Akaitcho was informed of it, and when the circumstance occurred, it brought him to the most decided admission of the superior knowledge and talents of the white people, who could account for, and foretell such an event; and he said that he and his people could not but be glad to have the company of such intelligent persons, and that on their part every exertion should be made to procure provisions. On the 29th, Mr. Hood aiid Mr, Back, accompanied by Pierre St. Germain, eight Canadians and one of the Indians, embarked to explore the Copper-mine River. If the wea- ther permitted, he was, on arriving at its banks, to trace its course and make observations for a few days and then to return. At this time also the Indian chief took his departure, leaving two of his people to procure provisions. On the 9th of September, having nothing which particu- larly required their attention to prevent it. Dr. Richardson and Captain Franklin set out on an excursion to tiie Copper- mine River, taking three of the servants with them. They attempted as straight a course as the country would permit. I The land was extremely barren, there being scarcely any W ^ 44G franklin's journey £ Ei J trees. One of the party killed a rein- deer, of which they all partook. At night, they had to sleep on the frozen ground with only a small Quantity of twigs under them, and little co- vering upon them. An Indian who was of the party stripped himself naked ; and then warming himself by the fire, co- vered hin.self with his garments and went to sleep. They passed a herd of rein-deer on the second day and killed one of them ; but they were so loaded already that they left the greater part of the carcase behind, carefully covered with stones, some of the party intending to possess tlionsselve.'i of it on their return. On the thirteenth they came in view of the Copper- mine River, and soon arrived on the edge of Point Lake, which is about the lat. of (>5 deg, 9 mii>. and long. 112 deg. 57 min. Having satisfied themselvt^s us far ts the present circumstances admitted, they set out on theirre- turn to the fort. The coldnea of the weather had consi- derably increased. The ground was covered with snow, and the whole country had a wintry appearance. On the 16th they arrived at their old quarters at Fort Enterprise. Mr. Back, Mr. Hood and the party accompanying them, had re- turned from their journey to explore the Copper-mine Ri- ver. They had travelled upwards of fifty miles to the north- ward, as far as the Lake into which the Copper-mine River runs. Although the cold was severe, and fuel was scarce, yet they cheerfully persevered in their journey, and no complaint was made of any one attached to the party. During the absence of the reconnoitering parties Mr. Wentzel had prou-ded /a the erection of the house, and in the beginning of October, the plar^ being finished, the party removed iiil;i it. It was merely a log-building, fifty feet long, and twenty-four wide, divided into a hall, three bed rooms and a kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with clay, the floors laid with jilanks rudely squared with the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment of deer- skin. The clay, which from the co 'nessof the weather re- quired to bo tempe'-od before tht; fire with hot water, fro* ^irT. ~|!'»" inchtVieyall &en ground, ind little co- trty stripped tlie fire, co- ileep. They t\d killed one , ihey left the covered with themselves' of me in view of 1 the edge ai eg. 9 min. and selves us fat is out on their re- ther had consi- l with snow, and e. On the 16th Enterprise. Mr. ig them, had le- opper-mine Ri- ^ilesto thenotth- ^he Copper-min« je, and fuel was teir journey, aiiA to the party. •ring parties Mr. [the house, and in jng finished, tk ioo-building, fifty into a hall, three ,of were plastered ,ly squared witli larchmentofdeer- ,f the w eather re- 11 hot water, tvoM TO THB POLAR SEA. 447 as it was daubed on, afterwards cracked in such a manner as to admit the wind from every quarter; yet, compared with the tents, their new habitation appeared comfortable ; and having filled the capacious clay-built chimney with fag- gots, they spent a cheerful evening before the invigorating blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Dr. Richard- son, who having, in one of his excursions, incautiously laid down on the frozen side of a hill when heated with walking, had caught a severe sore throat, which became daily worse whilst remaining in the tents, but he began to mend soon after he was enabled to confine iiimself to the more equable warmth of the house. The meridian sun at this time melted the light covering of snow or hoar frost on the lichens, which clothe the barren grounds, and rendered them so tender as to attract great herds of rein-deer. Captain Franklin e.stimated the numbers he saw during a short walk, at upwards of two thousand. They form into herds of different sizes, from ten to a hun- dred, according as their fears or accident induce them to unite or separate. The females being at this time more lean and active, usually lead the van. The haunches of the males are now covered to the depth of two inches or more with fat, which beginning to get red and high flavoured, is considered a sure indication of the commencement of the rutting season. The horns of the rein- deer vary, not only with its sex and age, but are otherwise so uucertahi in their growth, that they are never alike in any two individuals. The old males shed their's about the end of December ; the females retain them until the disappearance of the snow enables them to frequent the barren grounds, about the middle or end of May, soon after which period they proceed towards the sea- coast and drop their young. The young males lose their horns about the same time with the females or a little earlier, some of them as early as April. The hair of the reiu-deer falls in July, and is succeeded by a short thick coat of mingled clove, deep reddish, and yellowish browns ; the belly and under r i .■■iJ''"_..'^,!h"; 448 FRANKLINS JOURNRY '. Ji ^ parts of the neck, &c., remaining white. As the wmter ap. proaches the hair becomes longer, and lighter in its colours and it begins to loosen in May, being then mach worn on the sides, from the animal rubbing itself against trees and itones. Their principal movement to the northward cotn. mences generally in the end of April, when the snow begins to melt on the sides of the hills ; and early in May, when large patches of the ground are visible, they are on the banks of the Copper- Mine River. The females take the lead in this spring migration, and bring forth their young on tlit sea- coast about the end of May or beginning of June. There , v. certain spots or pusses well known to the Indians, through which the deer invariably pass in their migrations to and from the coast, and it has been observed that they always travel against the wind. The herds of rein-deer are attended in their migrations by bands of wolves, which destroy a great many of them. The Copper Indians kill the rein -deer in the summer with the gun, or taking advantage of a favourable disposition of the ground, they enclose a herd upon a neck of land, and drive them into a lake, where they fall an ea.sy prey ; but in the spring, when they are numerous oo the skirts of tlie woods, they catch them in snares. The sfiares are simple nooses, formed into a rope made of twisted sinews, which are placed ia the aperture of a slight hedge, constructed of the branches of trees. This hedge is so disposed as to form several winding compartments, and although it is by no means strong, yet the deer seldom attempt to break through it. The herd is led into the labyrinth by two converging rows of poles, and one is generally caught at each of the openings by the noose placed there. The hunter, too, lying in ambush, stabs some of them with his bayonet as they pass by, and the whole herd frequently becomes his prey. The Dog- Rib Indians have a mode of killing these ani- mals, which though simple, is very successfull. It was thus I described by Mf. Weutzel, who resided long amongst that . >vmtet ftp- its colours, acVi worn on 8t trees and thward com- snow begins I May, ^'^en e on the banks tke tbe lead in ^ng on till ' paitv who h^id been dispatched to Fort Providence continuing lons^er absent than had been expected, it occa- sioned considerable anxiety, especially among the Indians, who gave wiy, as was their custom on such occasions, to fearful appr';nensioMs. Atone time they supposed tliey imd perish id by some accident, at another, that they had been murdered by some Indian tribe. The repetition of their fears greatly dispirited the Canadians; but as Captaip Frank- j lin and his comijanions always expressed tlie firmest confi- de nee thj)t they would soon receive advice respecting their j absent frrends, they .strove against their forebodings, until on the lv\'.;i(y-*liird of November Belanger, one of the voya- gcrn wfi J accompanied Mr. Back, made his appearance. Hoj came alone, having left his companions the day before ini wood thr(.iigh which tliey had passed, and as the snow fell ia abundance they were too timid to encounter the storm. Ha was covered with snow and ice from the severity of the veaJ ther. He brought a packet of letters, which had been seoJ by the way of Canada in the canoes of the North-west Conl pany to Fort Providence, and a few balls for the guns. HJ stated that sevcial packa<;es from York Factory hadkej left at the Grand Rapid in consequence of a misunderstanl ing or dispute uetween (he servants of the Nor'h-west Hudson's Eay Companies. This was a most aerious diial pointment to all parties; more especially as it was irapoa ble to present any thing to the Indians equivalent to theli of ammunition and tobacco; the one article so necessaryj procure food, the other so essential to the comfort of the I diang. The letters contained information that two of the! quimaux nation were engaged as interpreters, and werej their journpy : thi5 was most acceptable news to the India TO THB PULAR SBA, 451 ai they were fearful if they proceeded northward of inf^eting with a party of that nation, and beiii^ killed by them. On the day following the Indians whom IJulanL;. r had left behind, arrived ; hut they gave out reports of so painful a na- ture as to put the success of the enterprise to hazard. Tli'^y stated that Mr. Week the gentleman in charge of Fort Providence, had told th»im, that so far from being the ollicers of a great Chief, the party were merely a set of dependant wretches, whose only aim was to obt. ii subsistence for a sua- sou in the plentiful country of the Copper Indians ; that, oui of charity they had been supj)!ied with a portion of goods by the trading Companies, but that there was not the smallest probability of their rewarding the Indians when their terra of service was completed. Akaitoho, with great good sense, instantly desired to have the mutter < \plained, stating at the same tune, that he could not credit it. Captain Franklin then pointed out to him that Mr. Weutzel, with whom they bad long been accustomed to trade, luid pledged the credit of his Company for the stipulated rewards to the party that accompanied them, and that the trading debts dueby Akaitcho and his party had been already remitted, which was of itself a sufficient proof of influence with the North-west Company. He also reminded Akaitcho, that having caused the Esqui- maux to be brought up at a great expense, was evidence of tlieir future intentions. The Indians retired from the con- ference apparently satisfied, but this business was in the end productive of much inconvenience, and proved very detri- mental to the progress of the Expedition. The residence of so grent a number of persons as abode at Fort Enterprise caused such a large consumption of pro- visions as induced Captain Franklin to represent the circum- stance to Akaitcho ; and he promised to send his party away. The balls which had been received by Belanger were given him for the use of his hunters, and after lingering a week longer they quitted their residence near Fort Enterprise. Akaitcho's mother being at this time very ill, he left her be^ M M M 2 I m ./f 1 l-ii ^1 1,. ! a^ :$ >ri ^! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^o 1.0 I.I 2.5 I^|2j8 I ISO "^~ H! S«f IS u Hi u» ,.„ nil 2.0 LUL 1.25 1.4 1 1.6 < 6" ► V <$» /; Photographic Sciences Corporation m 4 V N> ^^ % 6^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^<^ 452 FRANKLINS JOURNEY I ^ l;i* ' \ hind, with two female companions, requesting, in case of her death, that she might be buried at a distance from the house, that his mind might not be pained whenever be came back. The wife of Keskarrah, one of the Indian guides, being afflicted. Dr. Richardson gave him a medicine to be taken by her. In receiving it, he practised a variety of ceremonies which in their opinion were no doubt as effectiialHo her recovery as the medicine itself, which fortunately assisted her recovery. They had a daughter named Green Stockings, who was considered by all as a great beauty. Indeed so high an opinion had her mother of her charms, that on sitting for her picture, which after some unwillingness Mr. Hood was permitted to take, the good old lady expressed her con- viction that when the Great Chief (King George) saw her picture, he would not be satisfied until he had sent for the original to make Iier his wife. The young lady, although un- der sixteen years of age, had already had two husbands. The weather at this time was extremely cold, 29** below zero; yet notwithstanding this severity the people went about their regular daily labours, wearing leather mittens, furred caps, and rein-deer shirts. Although their faces were without covermg, they experienced no ill effects, ex- cepting when On the water, or any unsheltered place, where the wind came with full force. The operation of the cold however upon the trees was such as to to render them as im- pervious as a stone, so that in attempting to fell them almost every hatchet was broken. Captain Franklin says, as it may be interesting to know how we passed our time at this season of the year, I shall mention briefly, that a considerable portion of it was occupied in writing up our journals. Some newspapers and maga> zines, that we had received irom England with our letters, were read again and again, and commented upon, at our meals ; and we often exercised ourselves with conjecturing ♦h« changes that might take place in the world before we TO THE POI-AR SEA. 453 could hear from it again. Tlie probability of our receiving letters, and the period of their arrival, were calculated to a nicety. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit, or took a walk for i; mile or two on the river. In the evenings we joined the men in the hall, and took a part in their games, which generally continued to a late hour ; in short, we never found the time to hang heavy upon our hands ; and the peculiar occupations of each of the officers afforded them more employment than' might at first be sup- posed. On the 15th some of the men arrived from Fort Provi- dence. They brought some rum, a barrel of powder, some tobacco, sixty pounds of ball, and some clothing. The spirits were frozen, and so severe was the temperature that their fingers adhered to the glass. It appeared by the confession of one of the Indians who accompanied the party from Fort Providence, that they had drawn out some of the rum. This disposition to a breach of trust was the occasion of much dis- tress, as it manifested how little reliance was to be placed on these people. It was more peculiarly distressing when it was manifest that their superiors were suffering equal if not greater privations than themselves. The ammunition, and a part of the rum, were sent to Akaitcho. On the 27th the two Esquimaux arrived. Their names were The Belly and The Ear. Mr. Wentzel, and St. Ger- main, one of the interpreters, accompanied them. The Es- quimaux had also a name given to them corrrespondent with the month of their arrival at Fort Churchill, and were called Junius and Augustus. On the 5th of February, Akaitcho sent for further supplies of ammunition ; and by his people Captain Franklin was in- formed that reports most unfavourable to that confidence so requisite on the part of the Indians, were circulated, and that it was said Mr. Weeks had not fulfilled some demands made on him. It appeared that the Esquimaux Augustus came from 1 1 ■ m^ Mm *■• -fiU 454 franklin's journey the neighbourhood of Churchill, and on comparing their lan- guage with the printed books for the use of those of the same name on the Labrador coast, it was essentially the same. Augustus, after his arrival, erected a snowhouse, cutting out slabs of snow three feet long, six inches thick, and two feet deep. The building was about eight feet high; and the layers of snow were placed over each other in a most me- thodical form until a complete dome was erected. The en- trance was approached by steps, which led into a hall or porch ; then going through a passage there was an antecham- ber. From thence you passed into another passage, on one side of which was the cooking house, and on the other a re- cess for wood. At one part of this passage was the fire-place, the only one in the building. From thence you entered ano- ther apartment, on each side of which were bed places, and in the centre a sitting place. Beyond this was a smaller apartment where the provisions belonging to the family were carefully stowed. On the 5th of March, the people returned from Fort Pro- vidence bringing all the stores that could be procured. It consisted of a cask of flour, thirty -six pounds of sugar, forty pounds of powder, and a roll of tobacco, Mr. Weeks took the opportunity of writing to Captain Franklin to assure him that the reports which had been circulated stating that he had said they were only a party of adventurers was entirely with- out foundation, but that on the contrary he had strove every ig in his power to aid the efforts of the Expedition, and .a discountenanced Akaitcho when he signified to him his intention of leaving all connection with Captain Franklin's party. These declarations being made known to the Indians then at Fort Enterprise, one of them asserted that he him- self had heard Mr. Weeks express himself in contempt of the expedition, and was surprised that he should deny that ^ he had said so. Akaitcho soon after this sent them the full- est assurances that he would continue to render them every service in his power. TO THB POLAR SEA. 455 On the 17th Mr. Back returned. He had proceeded as far as Fort Chipewyan, having travelled on foot since he took bis departure from Fort Enterprise, more than one thousand miles. When he and Mr. Wentzel quitted Fort Enterprise on the eighteenth of October, to visit Fort Providence, two Canadians, two Indian hunters, and their wives accompanied them. Their rout lay sometimes over lakes so thinly frozen, that the ice often bent under them. On passing over one of the lakes an instance occurred of the kindest feeling on the part of the Indians: provisions being scarce, one of the women mak- ing a bole through the ice, caught a fine fish, which they refused , to partake of, saying that they were accustomed to seasons of hunger, and could therefore better bear up under such privations than the gentlemen who were with them. This was not a solitary instance of such generous feeling, but oc- curred in subsequent parts of their journey. In oneinstance, while attempting to cross a branch of the Great Slave Lake, Mr. Back fell through the ice ; but fortunately by the aid of his companions he was quickly extricated. On the first of November the party arrived safe at Fort Providence, an establishment of the North-west Company, and were kindly received by Mr. Weeks, who was in charge of that post. Mr. Back was so dissatisfied with the information he re- ceived at this post of the progress of the various stores which were to be expected, that he resolved to proceed to the Athabasca Lake to enquire into the cause of the neglect, and to expedite their conveyance ; and dispatching the packet of letters and a few musket balls to Fort Enterprise as before noticed, waited the freezing up of the Great Slave Lake, in order to proceed on his enquiries. While he remained at Fort Providence, a party of the Slave Indians arrived with furs ; and from their reports it appeared they had a knowledge of the settlement at Fort Enterprise, and would have paid them a visit, but feared meeting some of the Copper Indian nation. On the 27th of December, Mr. Back left Fort Providenoe I §m ■m Vi) 45C franklin's jovrnky •.(:;. ii ■( for the purpose of crossing the lake, which was uow suffici- ently frozen. The keenness of the wind was severe, and at the solicitations of the servants Mr. Back wrapped himseJf up in a rein-deer skin and a blanket, and placing himself on a sledge, was lashed on, leaving the head sufficiently at liberty just to notice the road, and on the ninth arrived at some fish- ing huts near Stony Island, which some Indians occupied, where they remained for the night. On the succeeding day they set out at an early hour, and reached the residence of the North-west Company on Moose-deer Island. Here he found additional information that the stores which were to be forwarded had not arrived, only five packages being at the fort. At this place he met the two Esquimaux, who were to join the expedition as interpreters. Disappointed of the stores so necessary for the expedition. Mr. Back resolved to proceed to Fort Chipewyan on the Athabasca Lake. Accordingly on the twenty-third of De- cember, he set out for that place, accompanied by the Cana- dian Beauparlant and Bois Brule s. The severity of the wea- ther greatly affected them in their journey, which notwith- standing all the sufferings they had to endure, they accom- plished on the second of January, after an interval of eleven days from the time of their leaving Fort Providence. Mr. G. Keith and Mr. Mac^illiray were greatly surprised at his presence, as was also Ttlr. Simpson, the resident at the Hud- son's Bay Fort ; for it had been reported to them that the party had been killed by the Esquimaux. Mr. Back sent a requisition to the heads of each Company desiring a supply of ammunition, tobacco, spirits, and other stores, stating that unless his request was complied with, the Expedition could not proceed. He remained at Fort Chi- pewyan five weeks, but could not obtain the supplies he re- quired. During this time a few laden sledges arrived, which brought letters from Great Britain, for Captain Franklin and his people ; and after earnestly requesting that supplies nr.ight be sent from the depots as early iu the year as could to THE PULAR 8BA. 4^7 be accomplished, Mr. Back prepared for bis returu to Fort Enterprize. On the 9th of February, having every thing prepared, Mr. Back set out. He had under his direction four sledges, laden with goods for the £xpedition, and a fifth belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company. He returned exactly by the same route, sufiering no other inconvenience but that arising from the chafing of the snow-shoe, and bad weather. Some Indians, whom they met on the banks of Little Buffalo Ri- ver, were rather surprised at seeing them, for they had heard that they were on an island, which was surrounded by Esqui- maux. The dogs were almost worn out, and their feet raw, when, on February the 20th, they arrived at Moose- Deer island all in good order. Towards the end of the month, two men arrived with letters from Lieutenant Franklin, con- taining some fresh demands, the major part of which Mr. Back was fortunate enough to procure without the least trou- ble. Having arranged the accounts and receipts between the Companies and the Expedition, and sent every thing be- fore him to Fort Providence, he prepared to depart; and it is but justice to the gentlemen of both parties at Moose Deer Island to remark, that they afforded the means of forward- ing the stores in the most cheerful and pleasant manner. On the 7th of March, Mr Back arrived at Fort Provi- denco, and found the stores safe and in good order. There being no certainty when an Indian, who was to accompany him, would arrive, and impatience to join bis companions increasing, after making the necessary arraugementqwith Mr. Weeks respecting the stores, on March the 10th Air. Back quitted the fort, with two men, who had each a couple of dogs and a sledge laden with provision. On the 13tb they met the Indian, near Icy Ifortage, and, on the I7tb, at on early hour, he arrived at Fort Enterprise, having travelled about eighteen miles a-day. He bad the pleasure of meet' ing his friends all in good health, after an absence of nearly five months, during which time ho had travelled one thouMQd P. V. 20. N w K n ' i<: i^f |!if>* ^; M ^' ;] -^ il! •rrr-fffK:'' >^-w 458 rRANKLIN'fl JOVRNBY Ane hundred and four miles, on snow-shoes, and had no other covering at night, in the woods, than a blanket and deer- skin, with the thermometer frequently at M*, and once at 57° ; and Aometimes passing two or three days withont tast- ing food. ' About this time a chief named the Hook, who was next in authority to Akaitcho, sent a message, that if Captain Franklin would send him ammunition, he would provide a stock of provisions for the Expedition in their passage along the Copper-mine River. As he generally occupied during the summer months, a portion of country adjoining Great Bear Lake, and near the Copper mountain, it was easy for him to provide a supply ; but there was such a scarcity of every article, that Captain Franklin could not with any pro- priety spare any part ; he however sent the Hook word that he would give them an order on the agents of the North- west Company for the value of any provisions they might provide for them ; and desired that as in the interim they would probably take their stock of furs to Fort Providence, they would satisfy themselves by speaking to Mr. Weeks on the subject. It appeared further that the Hook was ill and wished to have the advice of Dr. Richardson. The variety of difficulties which presented themselves worked upon the fears of some of the servants of the Expe- dition ; and it appeared that Pierre St. Germain, one of the interpreters, had so expressed himself as to excite a disin- clination in some of the Indians to proceed. On being ques- tioned by Captain Franklin he acknowledged, after much equi- vocation, that he had spoken to them of the very great dif- ficulties they would have to meet, and his fears for all their personal safety ;. and it further appeared that he was excited in a measure to express himself against the success of the enterprise, because he did not receive that attention he thought bebnged to him. On being threatened to bo aX' rested and sent to England to be punished, he exclaimed that he might as well die in the journey they were on the TO I'HJI POLAR SUA. 459 •ve of taking, as ui any other way ; and although he thought •ttch would be the result, he would willingly continue with the Expedition. As his services were of importance, no further steps were taken, than to admonish him as to his fu- ture conversations. On the 29th, Akaitcho arrived at the Fort, having been sent for to request him to procure a stock of provisions pre- vious to the commencement of their journey, and also to be satisfied as to his accompanying the party. In reply he said that his hunters should use every exertion to procure a good store of provisions, and that he and his men would accompany them to the mouth of the Copper-mine River ; and if they were unmolested by the Esquimaux, they would extend their journey farther. The chief desired that in case of meeting with any other tribes of Indians or with the Esquimaux, that the captain would influence them to live in peace with his people ; a request that was heard with the greatest sa- tisfaction by Captain Franklin, and which he gave the full- est assurance to Akaitcho he would endeavour to promote. On the 4th of April the last supply of goods from Fort Providence arrived, the fruits of Mr. Back's arduous journey to the Athabasca Lake ; and on the 17th Solomon Belanger and Jean Baptiste Belanger, set out for Slave Lake, with a box containing the journals of t..i cheers, charts, drawings, observations, and letters addressed to the Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs. They also conveyed a letter for Gover* nor Williams, in which Captain Franklin requested that he would, if possible, send a schooner to Wager Bay with pro<> visions and clothing to meet the exigences of the party, should they succeed in reaching that part of the coast. About the commencement of the month of April, provi- sions became extremely scarce ; the hunters sent in no sup< plies, and the women and children belonging to the Indians, who preferred a stationary residence near the house, to the continual removing to which they were subject in following the hunters, began to endure great privations, and wer« N N N 2 I. t 'Mm ^.t'''i- m ill'." ' iii^'^K rl 'Ba f IB I'l f ■ Ifl '1 m i •••ij 400 mANKLIN'S iOVRNBY compelled to lustaio tbemselTes hy picking up the bunea at the animafs which had been killed, ond pounding them for food. Pieces of the hides of the deer were also Cut up and eaten. The appearance that there would be shortness of . food for the whole party was very alarming, and only one moose-deer, wliich hud been killed at the distance of nearly fifty miles from the house, was procured for several days. On the 37th a supply was sent in from Akaitcho, who had taken Augustus, one of the Esquimaux, with him when he last quitted the neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise ; and who now returned in company with the persons sent with provi- sions, and expressed great satisfaction at the reception he met with among Akaitcho's people. Dr. Richardson, who had made an excursion to collect specimens of natural curio- sity, returned on the seventh of May, and reported that he hod visited the Indian tents, who had received an accession of several families of old people, which occasioned such a consumption of provisions as made him apprehensive there would not be sufficient provision obtained against the time for the departure of the Expedition. On the nth Mr. Wentzel, who had been to the Indian lodges, returned, having made the necessary arrangements witii Akaitcha for the drying of meat for summer use, and bringing fresh meat to the fort and for procuring a sufficient quantity of the resin of the spruce fir, or as it is termed by the voyagers gum, for repairing the canoes previous to start- ing and during the voyage. He promised payment to the Indian women who should bring in any of the latter article, and sent several men to the woods to search for it. As Mr. Wentzel had expressed a desire of proceeding no farther than the mouth of Copper-mine Hiver, which was se- conded by the Indians, who wished him to return with them. Captain Franklin readily acceded to his wishes ; and think- ing that he could render him the most effectual service in es- tablishing depots of provisions at certain places, arranged a plan to that effect, to be modified by circumstances. Duok> TO TnB POLAR 91:.%. ' 401 bunea oi hem for t up and ■tneis of only one of nearly ral dayi. ^ho had when he ; and who ith provi- ept'iou he dson, who ural curio- ed that he I accession led such a Dsive there the time for the Indian rangements ;r use, ond a sufficient termed by 3US to start- ment to the iter article, )ceeding no hich was se- 1 with them, and think- jrvice in es- arranged a ■ices. Ducks and geese now boc,an to appear iu considerable numbers. Blueberries, cranberriea, and other symptoms uf the advance of milder weather, presented themselves ; the sap ran in the pine trees; and though the ground continued frozen, the power of the sun was evident. On the I6tha0hief of tho Copper Indian nation arrived from Fort Providence. He brought with him his son. Be- ing affected with snow blindness, Dr. Richardson relieved him by pouring a few drops of laudanum into his eyes, a re- medy which had always proved effectual whenever any of the party became affected by that complaint. On the 21st all the men belonging to the Expedition who had been sent lo assist Akaitcho returned, and information was given that Akaitcao was on his journey to the Fort, and that he ex* pectod to be received with a salute of muskets cnid other ho- nours. As soon as his approach was announced, a flag was hoisted, and a salute fired ; which was returned by his own people. His standard bearer marched before him, and he followed with martial step, and was received with all possi- ble parade by the captain and his party. The calumet or pipe was passed round the assembly, each taking a whiff, and a present of such things as could be produced and spared, placed before the chief, whose people seated themselves in a circle around him. He then made a speech, in the con- clusion of which he expressed his hope that the Great Chief (the King of Great Britain) would send him a present. This he was assured should be done provided he was faithful to the engagements he had made. He then spoke of many dis- appointments he had experienced, and said that the reports he had received were to the discredit of the party and caused him to doubt as to their being what they represented them- selves. In conclusion he said that he should decline the pre- sent laid before him. To these observations Captain Franklin replied, that Akaitcho ought not to credit tho reports he had heard to t))e prejudice of the Expedition, and that it won within his (the I ' 1 *^^ Hi 1- W 4M VRANKLIN'S iOt/MNKT >4 ohiefii) knowledge, by his debts to the Company having bees cancelled, that his connection with the Expedition would be serviceable to his own interest, and to the interest of his peo- ple. Captain Franklin also stated that on his part he felt disappointment, as Akaitcho had not falHUed his engage- ments in providing that supply of provisions which he gave them to expect ; and that indeed there appeared more real ground for complaint on the part of those attached to the Ex- pedition than there was on that of Akaitcho. Upon being silenced by these arguments, he began again to express his opinion that the whole party would perish in the attempt to reach the sea, and insinuated that the presents set before him were not to the extent of his expectations ; and that the quantity of rum was not sufficient. Upon this he was assured that it was all the rum they had, and that the other articles were to the utmost extent that they could spare. Finding all his efforts to obtain more unavailable, he should, he said wait the arrival of his brother, who was named Humpy, be- fore he accepted the present ; his people however came af- terwards to fetch the rum, and this was considered as an evidence of content. On the 25th, clothing, and other necessary articles, were issued to the Canadians us their equipment for the ensuing voyage. Two or three blunkets, some cloth, iron-work, and trinkets were reserved for distribution amongst the Esqui- maux on the sea-coast. Laced dresses were given to Au- grustus and Junius, and it is impossible to describe the joy that took possession of the latter on the receipt of this pre- sent. The happy little fellow burst into extatic laughter, as he surveyed the different articles of his gay habiliments. lo the afternoon Humpy, Akaitcho's elder brother, Annce- thai-yazzeh, another of his brothers, and one of the guides, arrived with the remainder of Akaitcho's band ; as also Long- legs, brother to the Hook, with three of his band. There were now in the encampment thirty hunters, thirty-one women, and sixty children, in all one hundred and twenty-one, of the TO TUI rOLAB tlA. 469 'iDg been would be r his peo- t he felt I engage- l) he gave nore real to the £x- poD being xpress his attempt to get before id that the vnB assured ler articles . Finding lid, he said lumpy» be- sr came af- lered as an rticles, were the ensuing »n-work, and the Esqui- ven to Au- the joy that of this pre- laughter, as habiliments, ther, AnnoB- ►f the guides, as also Long- ,and. There jr-one women, tvone, of the Copper Indian or Red-Knife tribe. The rest of the nation lirere with the Hook on the lower part of the Copper- mine River. Annoethai-yazzeh is remarkable amongst the Indians for the number of his descendants ; he has eighteen children Kving by two wives, of whom sixteen were at the fort at this time. On the 26th they met the heads of the Indian party again in council. Akaitcho complained that Mr. Wontzel had ob' tained a greater distribution of presents for the Canadians than they ought to have received, and thereby his share had been reduced ; upon which Mr. Wentzel reminded him that on the very outset it had been stated to him that the presents were to be made to him on his return, from accompanying the Expedition ; and his brother Humpy said that he himself was present at a conference when that declaration was made. One of the guides now declared that he would accompany the white people to the sea, expecting the presents on his re- turn. These assertions so silenced Akaitcho, that after some further enquiries made by him whether the trading Compa- nies were rich, and an effort to obtain a few more kettles and blankets, to supply which the officers each gave up a blenket from their own beds, he ceased urging his request. It seemed evident that his purpose was to get every article the party had taken with them as presents to the Esquimaux or other strang(>is they might meet, and before the day closed, he explicitly declared to his people that if any of them chose to follow the Expedition they might, but that the presents were too few to satisfy him. Upon this several came for- wards and declared their readiness to proceed, and then re* ceived their share of the presents ; a proceeding most con- solatory to Captain Franklin, as rendering the conduct of the chiefof very little importance. On the 28th, Long-legs had a meeting with the captain, and stated that his brother the Hook was on the borders of the Copper-mine River procuring provisions for the party ; Akaitcho entering the room at the time, assumed a cheerful r I; 464 PRANKLIN'8 jovrmbt 'I I demeanor, and said that as he was fully satisfied the captain had it not in his power to make any more presents, he should rely upon his promises, and would proceed to the river us soon as the weather would permit them to travel. By the end of the month of May, there was daylight dur- ing the whole twenty-four hours. Every thing being ready as far as their resources would admit, on the 4th of June one party of the Expedition, headed by Dr. Richardson, set out on their journey of discovery. They had three sledges, drawn by dogs, to convey the stores and other necessaries, and each man had to take also a package of about eighty pounds, be- sides such articles of their own as were necessary. Th« whole party comprehended twenty- three persons, consisting of Indian hunters and guides with their wives, exclusive of children. On the same day Akaitcho and the hunters under his direction quitted the house. On their leaving, twenty balls were given to each hunter, with a proportion of powder, and they were desired to make depots of provisions for the Expedition on the road to Point Lake. It was then particularly urged upon (he chief, in the presence of all his people, that he should make a depot of provisions at this place previous to next September, as a resource should the party return this way. He and the guides not only promised to see this done, but suggested that it would be more secure if placed in the cellar, or in Mr. Wentzel's room. The Dog-ribs, they said, would respect any thing that was in the house, as knowing it to belong to the white people. At the close of the conversation Akaitcho exclaimed with a smile, " I see now that you have really no goods left, (the rooms and stores being completely stripped,) and therefore I shall not trouble you any more, but use my best endeavours to prepare provision for you, and I think if the animals are to- lerably numerous, we may get plenty before you can embark on the river." The snow was now confined to the bases of the bills, and tbio hustcjrf Raid that tlte season wm early. The ope w tioni TO THE POLAR SUA. 4C& captain e should river as gVit dur- ready a» Fune one I, set out 2s, drawn and each mds, be- iry. The consisting elusive of e hunters f leaving, portion of provisions t was then e of all his t this place i the party Tomised to ore secure oom. The ; was in the ,e. At the ith a smile, (the rooms fore I shall leavours to mals are to- can embark le bills, and leoperatioui of nature, however, seemed very tardy. They were eager to be gone, and dreaded the lapse of summer, before the Indians would allow it had begun. On the Hth the geese and ducks had left the vicinity of Fort Enterprise, and pro> ceeded to the northward. Some young ravens and whiskey* Johns made their appearance at this time. On the 12th Winter lliver was nearly cleared of ice, and on the 13th the men returned, having left Dr. Richardson on the borders of Point Lake. Dr. Richardson stated by letter that the snow was deeper in many parts near his en- campment than it had been at any time last winter near Fort Enterprise, and that the ice at Point Lake had scarcely be- gun to decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued on their arrival, and had eaten nothing (ot the last twenty- four hours, they were very cheerful, and expressed a desire to start with the remainder of the stores next morning. On the Idth and 10th of June, the canoes having been re- paired, the remainder of the party attached to the Expedition took their departure from Fort Enterprise, full of spirits at embarking in the further pursuit of the great object which en- gaged their attention. In one of the rooms they left a box in which was deposited a journal of their progress, which, on the return of Mr. Wentzsl, was to be conveyed to England in the most ready manner in which it could be ansomplisbsd. The room was blocked up, and, by the advice of Mr. Went- zel, a drawing representing a man holding a dagger in a threatening attitude, was fixed to the door, to deter any In- dians from breaking it open. They now directed their course towards the Dog-rib Rock, but as the servants were leaded with the weight of near one hundred and eighty pounds each, they proceeded at a slow pace. The day was extremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose attacks had hitherto been feeble, issued forth in swarms from the marshes, and were very tormenting. Having walked five miles they encamped near a small cluster of pinos about two miles from the Dog- rib Eock. The oanoe party bad not been seen sboe they set P. V. 20. O It 466 rRANK.LIN'S JOURNEY out. The hunters went forward to Marten Lake, intending to wait at a place where two deer were deposited. At Mar* ten Lake they joined the canoe party, and encamped with them. They had the mortification of learning from the hnn* ters that the meat they had put in store here, had been de« stroyed by the wolverenes, and they had in consequence to furnish the supper from their scanty stock of dried meat. On the 21st of June, some of the party reached the tents on Point Lake, where Dr. Richardson and the people who accompanied him had fixed their residence, and in the even- ing of the same day, Mr. Wentzel and the party with the ca- noes, also arrived, after a most fatiguing journey. The ice on the lake was still six or seven feet thick, and there was no appearance of its decay except near the edges ; and as it was evident that, by remaining here until it should be re- moved, they might lose every prospect of success in the un- dertaking, Captain Franklin determined on dragging the stores along its surface, until they should come to a part of the river where they could embark ; and directions were given this evening for each man to prepare a train for the con- veyance of his portion of the stores. Akaitcho and the hunters were encamped here, but their families, and the rest of the tribe, had gone off two days be- fore to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to the northward, where they intended passing the summer. Long-legs and Keskar- rah had departed, to desire the Hook to collect as much meat as he could against their arrival at his lodge. They learnt that Akaitcho and his party bad expended all the am- munition they had received at Fort Enterprise, without having contributed any supply of provision. Dr. Richardson bad, however, through the assistance of two hunters he kept with him, prepared two hundred poundnofdried meat, which was now their sole dependance for the journey. The number of the hunters was now reduced to five, as two of the most active declined going any further, their far ther, who thought himself dying, having solicited them to TO THB POLAR 8BA. 4«7 lending it Mar* ed vlth he hun' een de> lence to eat. the tents ople who the even- th the ca- The ice here was ; and as it Id be re- in the un- igging the to a part ;tions were for the con- ;, but their wo days be- svard, where md Keskar- ;ct as much >dge. They I all the am- ise, without , Richardson liters he kept im«at, which id to five, aJ her, their far ited the» to remain and close bis eyes. These five were furnished with ammunition, and sent forward to hunt on the south border of the lake, with directions to place any meat they might pro- cure near the edge of the lake, and set up marks to guide to the spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three other men, remained. They were much surprised to per- ceive an extraordinary difference in climate in so short an ad- vance to the northward as fifty miles. The snow here was lying in large patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch and willows were only just beginning to open their buds, which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many days before their departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks or a month later here than at that place. The provisiv>n consisted of only two bags of pemmican, two of pounded meat, five of suet, and two small bundles of dried provision, together with fresh meat suificient for supper at night. It was grati- fying to witness the readiness with which the men prepared for and commenced a journey, which threatened to be so very laborious, as each of them had to drag upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his sledge. The sufferings of the people in this early stage of the jour- ney were truly discouraging. Captain Franklin, therefore, determined on leaving the third canoe, which had been prin- cipally carried to provide against any accident to the others. They would thus gain three men, to lighten the loads of those who were most lame, and an additional dog for each of the other canoes. It was accordingly properly secured on a stage erected for the purpose near ihe encampment. Dried meat was issued f^r supper, but in the course of the evening the Indians killed tv\ o deer. They continued their journey till the 29tb, when their at- tention was drawn tc some pine branches which were scat- tered on the ice, and which proved to be marks directing to a place where the hunters had deposited the carcases of two deer. Akaitcho, judging from the appearance of the meat, o o 2 ',* I ' i-W m lli I liii » 468 franklin's JOUnNKY thought it had been placed there three days before, and that the hunters were considerably in advance. On the 30th of June, the men having gummed the canoes, embarked with their burdens to descend the river. The ri- ver wrs about two liun.lrecl yards vide, and ils course being uninterrupted, a san^nlne hope was indula^ed of geitinj on more speeJiiy, until they perceived that the waters of Rock- nest Lake were still bound by ice, and that recourse must again be had to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, and the party were exposed to great risk of breaking through in making the traverse. In one part they had to cross an open channel in the canoes, and in another were compelled to quit the Lake, and make a portage along the land. When the party got upon the ice again, the guide evinced much un- certainty as to the route. The ice cracked at every step, and the party were obliged to separate widely to prevent ac- cidents. The guide being still uncertain as to the road they were pursuing, they came to a bay on the north side of Rock-nest Lake, expecting to find the Copper-mine River ; but to their great disappointment, they perceived only a small stream emptying itself into the Lake. The guide now confessed that he knew not where he was, and desired the party to wait while he ascended a hill to take a view of the country, that he might set himself right. While waiting his return, two rein-deer were seen running swiftly near them, pur- sued by a wolf; but the latter, on perceiving the party, fled away when within a few paces of the hindmost of the deer. On the return of the guide, he said that he had discovered the Copper-mine River, at a distant part of the lake ; and they immediately proceeded towards it. The canoes and stores were dragged over the ice, and passing two hazardous rapids, they approached the Copper-mine River. It was tv/o hundred yards m ide at this place, and the sides were well covered with wood. At this place Akaitcho and several of the Indians met them, and stated -that their companions were cross ml TO THE FOLAR SRA. 409 behind, having placed five rein-deer under cover for the party. These were immediately sent for. They embarked at nine in the mornins^ on the 2nd of July, and descended a succession of strong rapids for three miles. They were carried along with rapidity, shooting over large stones, upon which a single stroke would have been destruc» tive to the canoes, and were also in danger of breaking them, for the want of the long poles which lie along their bottoms and equalize their cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on one occasion the first canoe was almost filled with the waves. In one place the passage was blocked up by drift ice, still deeply covered with snow. A channel for the ca- noes was made for some distance with the hatchets und poles ; but on reaching the more compact part, they were under the , necessity of transporting the canoes and cargoes across it ; an operation of much hazard, as the snow concealed the nu- merous holes which the water had made in the ice. The guide was again in doubt as to the correctness of his rout, and the party rested for the day while the guide and two men were sent to examine the country. In the evening some of the himters arrived, and stated that it was reported the party had perished in crossing one of the rapids. This arose from the circumstance of one of the dogs having two days before set off' in pursuit of some deer, and finding the encampment of the hunters, had joined them ; and these people being always disposed to apprehensions and fears, concluded that this dog had escaped alone. The consequence of these surmises was, that leaving the meatthey had collected, they set out for the place at which they supposed Long-legs was hunting, and the distance they had left the meat behind was too great for them to return and fetch it. Akaitcbo and the hunters now therefore proceeded forwards to a spot emi- nent for the success which the hunters met with, and where they calculated upon meeting with plenty of deer. In passing through the rapids which they had crossed, the lioats bad sustained considerable injury, and Captain Frank- M ,-./> i'.fl 470 fKANKLIN'S JOURNBT '6!-i Ui r !• lin now ordered that in future no rapid should be entered un- til the bowman had examined whether it were safe to go through it, as otherwise they were directed to land and con- vey the canoes over. Having given these directions, early in the morning of the 4th of July the party again set forward, and on the same day passed through several dangerous rapids, the persons in charge of the boats taking the precaution, wherever any hazard appeared, of landing several of the ar- ticles ; yet notwithstanding all their care, the bark of one of their canoes was split. The damage however was soon re- paired. After this they came to a part of the river where the drift ice had accumulated so as to fill the channel, and they were compelled to carry the cargoes and canoes over it. In doing this, three of the people fall through, but sustained no other inconvenience than a thor'>ugh wetting. After travelling upwards of tv/enty miles they encamped, and received the agreeable intelligence that Akaitcho and his hunters had killed eight musk oxen. Some of the party were sent off to assist in bringing in this seasonable supply. The musk oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in bands, and generally frequent the barren grounds during the sum- mer months, keeping near the rivers, but retire to the woods in winter. They seem to be less watchful than most other wild animals, and when grazing are not difficult to approach, provided the hunters go against the wind ; when two or three men get so near a herd as to fire at them from different points, these animals instead of separating or running away, liiuldle closer together, t.nd several are generally killed; but if the wound is not mortal they become enraged and dart in the most furious manner at the hunters, who must be very dextrous to evade them. They can defend themselves by their powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which, as the Indians say, they not unfrequently kill. They feed on the same substances with the rein-deer, and the prints of the feet of these two animals are so much alike, that it requires the eye of an experienced hunter to distinguish them* The hunters added t""^ mor^ in thoir stceh !« itc cc'so of '^^ TO THE POLAft 8BA. 471 lun- go con- early ward, apids, ution, he ar- ono of on re- ere the id they it. In ined no amped, sho and le party supply. d bands, Lhe sum- [je woods )8t other ipproach, or three different ing away, illed ; but [id dart in t be very es by their ch, as the sed on the nt8 of the it r«qwr®8 leW' The night, and as they had now more meat than the party could consume fresh, they delayed their voyage next day to dry it. The hunters vrere supplied with more ammunition, and sent forward; butAkaitcho, his brother, and another Indian, re« mained. , The officers had treated Akaitcho more distantly since th^ir departure from Point Lake, to mark their opinion of his mis- conduct. The diligence in hunting, however, which he had evinced at this place, induced them to receive him more fa* miliarly when he came to the tent. During conversation he endeavoured to excite suspicions against the Hook, by say* ing, " I am aware that you consider me the worst man of my nation ; but I know the Hook to be a great rog^e, and I think he will disappoint you." On the 6th. they again set forward, passing through seve* ral more rapids. On the following day they arrived at the Hook's encampment. There were with him at this time only three of the hunters, and some old men and their families, the remainder of his party remaining on the confines of Bear Lake. Keskarrah, one of the guides, had joined him somo days previous, as had his brother Long-legs, and on meeting, the Hook at once informed the captain what preparations he had made in respect of provisions for the party. He said that an unusual scarcity of animals this season, together with the circumstance of having only just received a supply of am- munition from Fort Providence, had prevented him from collecting the quantity of meat he had wished to do. The amount, indeed, he said, is very small, but I will cheerfully give you what I have : we are too much indebted to the white people, to allow them to want food on our lands, whilst we have any to give them. Our families can live en fish until we can procure more meat, but the season is too short to ai> low of your delaying, to gain subsistence in that manner. He immediately desired, aloud, that the women should bring all the meat they had ; and soon collected sufficient to make three bags and a balfof pemmican, besides some dried meat . WM 1 1 1 r^il 479 FRA'NKLIN'B JOVRNCT and tongues. The party were truly delighted by this prompt and cheerful behaviour, ond vrVxiid gladly have rewnrded ihe kindness of himself and his companions by some substantial present, but were limited by the scantiness of their store tu a small donation of fifteen charges of ammunition, to each of the chiefs ; however they accepted notes on the North- west Company, to be paid at Fort Providence ; and to these was subjoined an order for a few articles of clothing, as an odditional present. As the animals abound, at all times, on the borders of Bear Lake, the Hook promised to remain on the east side of it until the month of November, at a particu- lar spot nearest to the Copper-mine River, from whence there is a communication by a chain of lakes and portages. There the principcl deposit of provision was to be made ; but during the summer the hunters were to be employed in putt- ing up supplies of dried meat at convenient distances, not only along the communication from this river, but also upon its banks, as far down as the Copper Mountain. They were also to place particular marks to guide to their stores. The confidence manifested by the Hook in the assurances of a liberal payment for what supplies he procured, was highly pleasing, and Captain Franklin promised to send the neces- sary documents by Mr. Wentzel. The great anxiety also which the Hook expressed for the safety and welfare of the party gave additional pleasure. After representing the nu- merous hardships they would have to encounter in the strong- est manner, though in language similar to what had often been heard from Akaitcho, he earnestly entreated they would be constantly on guard against the treachery oi'the Es- quimaux ; and no less forcibly desired they would not pro- ceed far along the coast, as they dreaded the consequences of being exposed to a tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to endure the cold of the autumn on ashore destitute of fuel. The Hook, having been auiuvoUd for several years, rejoiced II ^' prompt (led the tstantial store to each of North- , to these ig, as an orders of the east , particu- n whence portages. nade ; but id in putt- jnces, not . also upon rhey vere tores. assurances was highly the neces- ixiety also 'are of the ing the nu- the strong- had often eatcd they y ot the Es- ild not pro- nsequeuces and bavins tuteoffiitl. iurs. rejoiced TO Tiir roi.AR tstx. A'il «tthe opportunity of consulting Dr. Richardson, who imme- diately gave him advice, and supplied him with medicine. Proceeding on their voyage, and passing the base of a range of hills, and through several rapids, they arrived at a place which exhibited manifest tokens of having been recently visited. They therefore encamped, and made a large fire as a signal, which was answered in a similar way. Mr. Wentzel was immediately sent, in expectation of getting provision from them. On his return, they learned that the party consisted of three old Copper Indians, with their fa- milies, who had supported themselves with the how and ar- row since last autumn, not having visited Fort Providence for more than a year ; and so successful had they been, that they were enabled to supply the party with upwards of se- venty pounds of dried meat, and six moose skins fit for mak- ing shoes, which were the more valuable as they were ap- prehensive of being barefooted before the journey could be completed. They now catne to a rapid which had been the •theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and which they had described as impassable in canoes. The river here descends for three quarters of a mile, in a d -ep, but uar- row and crooked channel, which it has cut through the foot of a hill of six hundred feet high. It is confined be- tween perpendicular cliffs, resembling ston'j walls, varying in height from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet, on which lies a mass of fine sand. The body of the river, pent within this narrow chasm, dashed furiously round the projecting rocky columns, and discharged itself at the northern extre- mity in a sheet of foam. The canoes, after being light- ened of part of their cargoes, ran through this defile with- out, sustaining any injury. In the evening the Indians made a large fire, as a signal to the Hook's party that they had passed the terrific rapid in safety. The hunters were sent forward to hunt at the Copper Mountains, under the super- intendence of Adam, the interpreter, who received strict in- P. V. 90. P F p 11 1 1 1 ''(,*■■ 'ii rill ~M 'i'l u ill' .il 111 474 rRANKLIN'S JOURNBT 'M junctions not to permit them to make any large fires, lest they should alarm (itra);;^ling parties of the Esquimaux. The latitude of their situation at this time was 67° IQf longitude 11G° 25'. They hud provisions for fourteen days; although the weatlier was warm, much snow remained on the mountains. T^e Indians, knowing the course of the river to be now nothing but u succession of rupids, said it was useless to take the cunoes any further, but Captain Parry expecting that circumstances might arise which would require the use of a canoe, directed one to be conveyed with the party. As they were now entering the confines of the Esquimaux country, the guides recommended caution in lighting fires, lest they should discover themselves, adding that the same reason would lead them to travel as much as possible in the valleys, and to avoid crossing the tops of the hills. Large masses of ice twelve or fourteen feet thick, were still ad- hering to many parts of the bank, indicating the tardy de- parture of winter from this inhospitable land, but the earth around was rich with vegetation. In the evening two musk- oxen being seen on the beach, were pursued and killed. Whilst waiting to embark the meat, the Indians rejoined, and reported they had been attacked by a bear, which sprung upon them whilst they were conversing together. His attiick was to sudden that they hsi^ not time to levy their guns properly, and they all missed except Akaitcho, who, less confused than the rest, took deliberate aim, and shot the animal dead. Being informed that they were now within a short distance of those parts which the Esquimaux always frequent, the tents were pitched and a party sent forward to examine the country. The remains of an Esquimaux residence were TUuble. and a watch was constantly kept to prevent surprise. The Wiuainder of the party slept with their arms, ready to repel every assault ; and Junius and Augustus, the two Esquimaux who were attached to the expedition, were sent forward to seek for an interview with some of their nation. TO TUB POLAR SEA. 475 )s, lest n days ; d on the I river to i useless xpecting 5 the use rty. squimaux lighting that the possible in lis. Large 6 still ad- I tardy de- it the earth two musk- and killed. s rejoined, lear, which g together, o levy their litcho, -who, md shot the lort distance quent, the examine the idence were ent surprise, ms, ready to tus, the two u, were sent their nation. They were most desirous of beinjf so employed ; and each concealin;i^ a brace of pistols in their dress, and bein^ provided with looking; glasses, beads, and other trinkets, prepared to depart. It was with much reluctance on the part of Captain Franklin that they were put in nn exposed situation ; but they cheerfully enga,(;ed in the duty ; and putting on the Es- quimaux dresses which had been prepared for tliem, and receiving directions to state to their people that the white men were desirous of promoting peace and reconciliation between them and the neighbouring nations, they set forward on their journey. They were also to enquire by what pas- sage large ships might be sent to the Esquimaux people. If possible, he was to prevail on some of the people to return with him ; but if he found no inhubitunts, he was to return without delay. The Indians were required at this time to keep within their encampment, and the solicitude for the welfare of the two Esquimaux was such as to induce the officers to ascend a hill which was near, for the purpose of ascertaining their return. Dr. Richardson, having the first watch, had gone to the summit of the hill and remained seated, contemplating the river that washed the precipice under his feet, long after dusk had hid distant objects from his view. His thoughts were, perhaps, far distant from the surrounding scenery, when he was roused by an indistinct noise behind him, and on looking round, perceived that nine white wolves hud ranged them- selves in form of a crescent, and were advancing, apparently with the intention of driving him into the river. On his rising up they halted, and when he advanced they made way for his passage down to the tents. He had his gun in his hand, but forbore to (ire, lest there should be Esquimaux in the neighbourhood. During Mr. Wentzel's middle watch, the wolves ai»peared repeatedly on the summit of the hill, and at one time they succeeded in driving a deer over the precipice. The animal was stunned by the fall, but rt- P p p 3 '^im u\ \ JH'i j', 47G PRANKI.IN It JOLRNP.Y m I coverin;,^ ituf'lf, Hwam uoroHs tin- streum, and escaped up tho rnor. The iiiK'ht liuvinji; passed uway without the return of either Junius or Au^ustUM. Cuptuin Franklin resolved to suck Cor them. It was with diHiculty that they prevailed on the In- dians to remain at the encampment, which ii was wished they ■hould do, to prevent their being seen by the Es(|uimaux. Akaitcho was, as usual, full of fearful apprehensions, say- ing that Junius and Augustus must have been killed, and that no doubt the Esquimaux were collecting for the pur- pose of attacking the party. After much persuasion, how- ever, ho agreed to remain, provided Mr. Wentzel continued with them, which he accordingly did. ' Having thus far succeeded, the party proceeded along the river, each person carrying a gun and a dagger. On as- cending a hill to take a view of the country before them, to their great disappointment, no sea was discernible, but an extent of land bounded by a range of hills, quite contrary to what their guides led them to expect. In the course of the day they met Junius, who was returning to inform the jjarty that they had found some Esquimaux tents at one of the Falls, on the opposite side of the river, the people in which w ere asleep ; that they afterwards spake to them across the river, and told them of the arrival of some white people from a very distant part, and that they had brought some useful articles, to give the Esquimaux in token of peace, .lunius said that they appeared considerably alarmed at the infor- mation ; but that one of the party approached the shore on the side where Junius and Augustus were, and sj)ake with the latter, who was able to converse with them, although there was some ditticulty in making each other understand. After a few hours rest, Junius set out again to join Augustus, taking suHicient provisions with him, the wnnt of which had given occasion to his present return. He was now accom- panied by the seaman Hepburn, who was to follow at ashort distance. i (ip tho )f either luek for 1 the In- hed thoy luimaux. 0119, suy- Uecl, und tho pur- ion, how- oontiuued ded a\onK r. On us- i them, to lie, but an contrary to 3 of the day B i)i«rty that [' the Falls, which -were s the river, ople from a some useful ce. Junius it the infor- le shore on A spake with m, although understand, lin Augustus, of which had now accom- ilowalashort TO THE POLAR IRA, 477 (Soon after (liey were mortified by the uppearnnce of the Indiuiiii with Mr. Weiit?.el, who hud in vain endeavoured to restrain theni from following. The only reason assigned by Akaitcho for iiis conduct was, that he wiNJied for u re-as- surance of the captain's promise to establish pence between his nation und the Ksquimuiu. He again enforced the necessity of their remaining behind, until the party hud ob- tuined the contidence and good will of their enemies. After (upper. Dr. Hichardson uscended a lofty hill about three miles from the encampment, and obtained the first view of the sea ; it appeared to be covered with ice. A large pro- montory, and its lofty mountains, proved to be the land they bad seen in the forenoon, and which had led them to believe the sea was still fur distant. He saw the sun set u few minutes before midnight from the same "levated situation. It did not rise during the hulf hour he remained there, but before he reached the encampment its rays gilded the tops of the hills. On the 15th of June they proceeded on their journey, restraining with difiiculty the Indians from accompanying them, notwithstanding Captuin Franklin threatened that he would withhold the reward he hud promised them if they did not wait till he had prepared the Esquimaux to receive them. At noon they perceived Hepburn lying on the left bank of the river, and landed immediately to receive his information. As he represented the water to be shoal the whole way to be rapid (below which the Esquimaux were,) the shore party were directed to continue their march to a sandy bay at the head of the fall, and there await the arrival of the canoes. Some of the men incautiously appeared just as Augustus was speaking to one of the Esquimaux, who had again approached in his canoe, and was almost persuaded to land. The unfor- tunate appearance of so many people at this instant, revived his fears, and he crossed ov^r to the eastern bank of the river and fled with the whole of the party. They learned from Augustus that this party, consisting of four men and mm Pi ; fJ! I- 'I '^i 478 PRANKLINS JOVRNBY m I I iM i I '■> a 1^' as many women, had manifested a friendly disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The man who first came to speak to him, inquired the number of canoes that he had with them, expressed liimself to be not displeased at their arrival, and desired him to caution the party not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the portage on the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this favourable appearance, the Esqui* maux soon after fled ; but it was hoped that they would return after their firsf alarm had subsided ; and therefore Augustus and Junius were sent across the river to lock for the runaways, but their search was entirely fruitle'ss. They afterwards put a few pieces of iron and trinkets in their canoes, which were lying on the beach. Several hu- man skulls, which bore the marks of violence, and many bones were strewed about the ground near the encampment, and as the spot exactly answers the description given by Mr. Hearne, where the Chipewyans who accompanied him had perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux, no doubt was made of this being the place, notwithstanding the difference in its position as to latitude and longitude given by him. On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up the river to search for dried wood to make floats for the nets. Adam the interpreter was also dispatched with a Canadian, to inform Akaitcho of the flight of the Esquimaux. Adam soon returned in the utmost consternation, and said that a party of Esquimaux were pursuing the men who had been sent to collect tloats. They had come quite unawares upon the Esquimaux party, which consisted of six men, with their women and children, who were travelling to- vrards the rapid with a considerable number of dogs carry- ing their baggage. The women hid themselves on the first alarm, but the men advanced, and stopping at some distance from the party, began to dance in a circle, tossing up their hands in the air, and accompanying their motions with much shouting, to signify, as supposed, their desire of peace. I. Two speak to h them, val, and ining the .he river. J Esqui- ey wo old therefore r to look fruitless. :rinkets in everal hu- and many jarapment, n given by ied him had Liimaux, no iithstanding 1 longitude sent up the >r the nets, a Canadian, IX. Adam said that a o had been e unawares of six men, •avelling to- dogs carry- Is on the first ime distance ling up their IS with much •e of peace. TO THB POLAR SEA. 479 Neither party was willing to approach the other ; and at length the Esquimaux retired to the hid, from whence they had descended when first seen. They proceeded in the hope of gaining an interview with them, ard on the summit of the hill they found, lying behind a stone, an old man who was too iniirm to effect his escape with the rest. He was much terrified when Augustus advanced, and probably expected immediate death; but that the fatal blow might not be unrevenged, he seized his spear, and made a thrust with it at his suppo.sed enemy. Augustus, however, easily repressed the feeble efibrt, and soon calmed his fears by presenting him with some pieces of iron, and assuring him of his friendly intentions. Dr. Richardson and Captain Franklin then joined them, and after receiving some presents, the old man was quite composed, and became communicative. His dialect differed from that used by Augustus, but they un- derstood each other tolerably well. The old man said that the party who accompanied him, amounted' to seven persons with their families. He had heard, he said, of white men having been seen by some of his nation, a considerable distance to the eastward. In reply to enquiries addressed to him, he said that drift wood would be found along the coast, that fish were plentiful, that seals were abundant ; and that it was usual with his nation at this season to come into these parts to procure salmon, which were now abundant about the Bloody Fall. He said his name was White Fox and that his tribe called themselves the Deer Horn Esquimaux. He said that at the conclusion of the time for catching salmon they removed to the westward, where they built themselves snow-houses on the borders of a river. After this White Fox proposed to go to his store ; but appearing too infirm to walk without the help of sticks, Augustus ass-isted him ; and when arrived there he presented some dried meat to each of the party, which being consid(;red among these people as an offer of peace, was eaten by them although it was far from being sweet. Being given to un- 1^. ml i 1 - f 1 f^^ ■1 If m 480 tranklin's journky k derstand that the party wanted provisions, he said that he had a good supply for them, which he would shew them. Captain Franklin now communicated to him that they were accompanied by some Copper Indians, who were very desirous to make peace with his nation, and that they had re- quested him to pre^vail upon the Esquimaux to receive them in a friendly manner ; to which he replied, he should rejoice to see an end put to the hostility that existed between the na- tions, and therefore would most gladly welcome them. Hav- ing dispatched Adam to inform Akaitcho of this circumstance, they left White Fox, in the hope that his party would re- join him ; but as they had doubts whether the young men would venture upon coming to the tents, on the old man's bare representation, Augustus and Junius were sent back in the evening, to remain with him until they came, that they might fully detail their intentions. White Fox was bent with age, but appeared to be about five feet ten inches high. His hands and feet were small in proportion t6 his height. Whenever he received a present, he placed each article first on 'lis right shoulder, and then on his left ; and when he wished to express still higher satisfac- tion, he rubbed it over his head. He held hatchets, and other iron instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing his countenance in a glass for the first time, he exclaimed, •' I shall never kill deer more," and immediately put the mirror down. The tribe to which he belongs repair to the sea in spring, and kill seals ; as the season advances they hunt deer and musk oxen at some distance from the coast. Their weapon is the bow and arrow, and they get sufliciently nigh the deer, either by crawling, or by leading- these animals by ranges of ttirf towards a spot where the archer conceals him- self. Their bows are formed of three pieces of fir, the cen- tre piece alone bent, the other two lying in the same straight line with the bowstring ; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew. Their canoes are similar to those in Hudson's Straits, but smaller. They get fish constaotly in the rivers, TU THB POLAK SBA. 481 that he them, that they Fere very ly had re- give them i\d rejoice en the na- em. Hav- iumstance, •would re- oung men 1 old man's ent back in , that they to be about lete small in d a present, and then on her satisfac- atchets, and On seeing exclaimed, tely put the repair to the ces they hunt oast. Their iciently nigh se animals by onceals him- fir, the cen- same straight tied together in Hudson's in the rivers, and in tb.* sea as soon aa the ice breaks up. This tribe do not make use of nets, but are tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their cooking utensils are made of pot-stone, and they form very neat dishes of fir, the sides being made of thin deal, bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be perfectly water-tight. They have also large spoons made of the horns of the musk oxen. \ ■. . ^ Akaitcho arrived in the evening, and it appeared that he bad seen the Exquimaux the day before, and sought to hold correspondence with them ; but that they appeared fearful to advance. Akaitcho foilowed them at a distance, and sought so to surround them that they would be reduced to the ne- cessity of meeting either with the English party, or with the Indians. He had obtained an interview with White Fox, who at first manifested an hostile spirit, but was soon pacified on finding" that the Indians were friend'y ilispojed. As Jumus and Augustus did not return, Mr. Hood and a party of men were sent ia search of them. They found that White Fox's wife had been with him, who said that all the Esc^uimaux had gone to a distance, where some of their peo- ple were fishing". Xn the course of the day, a party of Es- quimaux were observed at a short dlstiince, but as soon as they saw Captain Franklin's people they Gcd with precipitation. On the other hand such fearful appreheusious took hold of Akait- cho and his people that they resolved to proceed no farther. They expressed their fears lest their retreat should be cut off; and although Captain Franklin endeavoured to prevail on them to continue, by off'ers of considerable advantage, nothing could overcomn their fcar.^ ; he then requested them to wait at the Copper Mi.»imtauis for Mr. Went/el and the men who v/ere to return, on the party arrlvia^f at the sea, which, after much persu.ision they agreed to do. and then departed after promising to provide a deposit of provisions at Fort Enterprise, for the use of the party on their return. Pierre St. Germain and Jean Baptiste Adam, two of tha P. V. 21. Q Q Q -1 ■ . ", .M I t 489 franklin's JOVRNJir i4 interpreters, were also impressed with such fearful appre- hensions for their safety, that they solicited to be discharged; and the former declared that he had only engaged to accom- pany the party with the Indians, and that therefore when they returned, he also was to be discharged. As, however, a written engagement had been made with St. Germain, he was quickly silenced on being shewn the written contract which he had entered into. The assistance which St. Germain and Baptiste Adam also were of in procuring provisions by hunt- ing were so important that their return would have exposed the party to many difficulties. Notwithstanding these ties, Captain Franklin was informed that they meditated the tak- ing the first opportunity of quitting the party, and it was ne- cessary to watch their conduct until the Indians departed, as they were in too much dfead of the Esquimaux to quit alone. On the 18th of July, Captain Franklin and his compani- ons embarked on the Copper-mine River, and proceeded to the sea, which they reached in a few hours. The Canadian voyagers complained much of the cold, but they were amused with their first view of the sea, and particularly with the sight of the seals that were swimming about near the entrance of the river ; but these sensations gave place to despondency before the evening had elapsed. They were terrified at the idea of a voyage through an icy sea in bark canoes. They speculated on the length of the journey, the roughness of the waves, the uncertainty of provisions, the exposure to cold where they could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having to traverse the barren grounds to get to some establishment. The two interpreters expressed their apprehensions with the least disguise, and again urgently applied to be discharged ; but only one of the Canadians made a similar request. Judg- ing that the constant occupation of their time as soon as they were enabled to commence the voyage would prevent them from conjuring up so many causes of fear, and that familia- rity with the scenes on the coast, would in a short time eoa- TU TUB PULAR 8BA. 483 ble them to g:ive scope to their natural cheerfulness, the of- ficers endeavoured to ridicule their fears, and happily suc- ceeded for the present. Tlie manner in which Hepburn viewed the element to which he had been so long accustomed, contributed not a little tr make them ashamed of their fears. On the morning of the 19th, Dr. Richardson, accompa- nied by Augustus, paid another visit to White Fox, to see if he could obtain any additional information respecting the country to the eastward ; but he was disappointed at finding that his affrighted family had not yet rejoined him, and the old man could add nothing to his former communication. Dr. Richardson remarked that he had a great dislike to men' ti'Dning the name of a river to the westward, and also of his tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to remain with him, and offered him one of his daughters for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with two stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins of a willow. Mr. Wentzel and some others of the party being to return from this place. Captain Franklin made up a packet to be conveyed by them to England. Those who were to remain with him consisted of twenty persons, including officers. The course which they would probably pursue, was drawn out and laid before Mr. Wentzel, and he was requested to require the Indians to provide a supply of dried provisions at Fort Enterprise as early in the winter as they could ; that in case the party were prevented by the severity of the weather from returning by the Copper-mine River, and were compelled to travel across the country, they might be sure of a suffici- ent supply at Fort Enterprise. In case the Indians should be in want of ammunition, he was desired to obtain a sup- ply from Fort Providence or some other port, and to send it to the Indians in order that there might be no occasion of excuse on their part. Mr. Wentzel was also to leave a letter at Fort Enterprise with information where the Indians would hunt in the months of September and October. He wasalsQ Q Q Q 2 V i mil i > ■% "If 'i . f \y\ \ 484 FRANKIIN'S JOURXKt furnished with a list of the stores that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as a remuneration for their services, as well as with an official request to the North-west Com- pany that thfisc goods ini;;ht he paid to them on tlioir next visit to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in tho latter part ol' November. If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party, he was instructed to assure them that he was provided with the necessary documents to get them })ayment for any meat they sheuld provide ; and to acquaint them, that Captain Frank- lin fully relied on their fuHilling- every part of the agreement they had made. Whenever the Indians, whom he was to join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on their way to Fort Enterprise, he was requested to put in store what- ever meat could bo spared, placing conspicuous marks to guide to them. When Mr. Wcntzel's party had been sup- plied with ammunition, the remaining stock consisted of one thousand biills, and rather more than the requisite proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was missing-, and it was af- terwards discovered that the Canadians had secreted and dis- tributed it among themsehes, in order that when provision should become sc.ivce, they might prisately procure ducks and geese, and avoid the necessity of sharing them with the officers. The situation of the encampment was ascertained to be, latitude 67° 47' 50" north, longitude 1 15° 36' 49" west. The travelling distance from Fort Enterprise to the north of Copper- mine River, is about three hundred and thirty- four miles. The canoes and baggage were dragged over snow and ice for one hundred and seventeen miles of this distance. On the 2Ist, th^ p^rty embarked on the Arctic Sea. They had with them provisions for only a fortnight's consumption, with very doubtful prospects as to their future supplies. They shortly after landed on an island which showed that it had been visited by the Esquimaux. There was a quantity of fishing implements, and also many skins of the ^. al, musk- mised to services, est Com- Aicir next nirtke tit party, he c\ with the meat they [xin Frank- agreement he was to ,^ls on their stove vrhat- s marks to been siip- listed of one e proportion nd it was af- eted and dis- en provision ooure ducks liem with the s ascertained ' 36' 49" west. to the north d and thirty- draoged over miles of this :-,cSea. They s consumption, supplies. Tliey ved that it had s u quantity of the Hal, musk- tO THB POLAR SRA. 485 ox, and rein-deer. There were also various kinds of cook- ing implements, and many other articles which appeared to be manufactured with great ingenuity, the uses of which could not be understood. As they proceeded they found the coast Avell covered with vegetation, and a considerable quan- tity of drift wood was found upon the beach. They made a run of nearly forty miles along the coast in an eastern direc- tion, and were full of spirits at the progress they made. In the evening they landed, and passed the night on shore. On the 22nd, they again set forwards in the canoes, sail- ing along the coast to the eastward, and making their way throus,h various detached pieces of ice, in which they found themselves often exposed to dangers. According as the wind blew over the ice or from the land, they found a great difference of the temperature of the air. They noticed many geese and ducks and a few deer. On the 23d, the wind having blown from the land during the night, the ice was cleared away from the coast, and they again proceeded on their voyage ; but the wind after a short time becoming ad- verse, they were obfigedto land, and taking the opportunity of using iheir nets, they caught a few fish. On ascending a cliff to take a view of the sea, the ice also appeared to have been driven around them in all directions. On observation their latitude was 67° 42' north, and their longitude 112** 30 west. < n the 24th they saw indications that some Esqui- maux had recently been in that neighbourhood. On the 25th tliey embarked at six o'clock in the morning and paddled against a cold breeze, until the spreading of a thick fog compelled them to land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful mixture of red and gray granite, traversed from north to south by veins of red felspar, which were crossed in various directions by smaller veins filled with the same substance. At noon the wind coming from a favoura- ble quarter, they were tempted to proceed, although the fog was unabated. Just as they were endeavouring to double baold f«pe, the fog partially cleared away, and allowed an I i;4^^ k\ M k 1'' if h 486 pranklin'8 journey imperfect view of a chain of islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which was pressing down. The coast near them was so extremely steep and rugged that no landing of the cargoes could be elFected, and they were preserved only by some men jumping on the rocks, and thrusting the ice oiT with poles. There was no alternative but to continue along this dreary shore, seeking a channel between the different masses of ice which had accumulated at the various points. In this operation both the canoes were in imminent danger of being crushed by the ice, which was now tossed about by the waves that the gale had excited. They effected a pas- sage, however, and keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance of what they named Detention Harbour, having come twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux encampment was traced on this spot; and an ice chisel, a copper knife, and a small iron knife, were found under the turf. On the 26th they embarked at four o'clock in the morning and attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got enclosed, and remained for some time in a very perilous si- tuation ; the pieces of ice, crowded together by the action of the current and wind, pressing strongly against its feebles fides. A partial opening, however, occurring, they landed without having sustained any serious injury. Two men were then sent round the bay, and it was ascertained that instead of having entered a narrow passage between an island and the main, they were at the mouth of a harbour, having an is- land at its entrance ; and that it was necessary to return by the way they came, and get round a point to the northward. This was, however, impracticable, the channel being blocked up by drift ice ; and there was no prospect of release except by a change of the wind. In the afternoon the weather cleared up, and several men went hunting, but were unsuc- cessful. On the morning of the 27th, the ice remaining stationary, they carried the canoes and cargoes about a mile and a half across a point of land that formed the east side of the bay ; TO THB POLAR SB 4W but the ice was not more favourable there than at the place they had left. It consisted of small pieces closely packed together by the wind, extending along; the shore, but leaving a clear passage beyond a chain of islands with which the whole of this coast is girt. As the ice continued in the same state the following day, several of the men were sent out to hunt; and one o them fired no less than four times at deer, but unfortunately without success. It was satisfactory, however, to ascertain that the country was not destitute of animals. They had the mortification to discover that two of the bags of pemmican' which was their principal reliance, had become mouldy by wet. The beef too had been so badly cured, as to be scarce- ly eatable, through their having been compelled, from haste, to dry it by fire instead of the sun. It was not, however, the quality of the provision that gave them uneasiness, but its diminution, and the utter incapacity to obtain any addi- tion. Seals were the only animals seen at this place, and these they could never approach. There was a sharp frost in the night, which formed a pretty thick crust of ice in a ket- tle of water that stood in the tents ; and for several nights thin films of ice appeared on the salt water amongst the cakes of stream ice. Notwithstanding this state of temperature, they were tormented by swarms of musquitoes. On the morning of the 29th the party attended divine ser- vice. About noon the party embarked, having consumed all the fuel within reach. The wind came off the land just as the canoes had started, and they determined on attempting to force a passage along the shore ; in which they succeeded, after seven hours* labour and much hazard to the vessels. The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked on it, and effected a passage by bearing against the pieces with their poles ; but in conducting the canoes through the narrow chan- nels thus formed, the greatest care was requisite, to prevent the sharp projecting points from breaking the bark. They > "yi't i* ,t X I .k I r^J 1h 488 franklin's jouunby fortunntely received no material injury, though they vtou split in two places. At the distance of three miles, they came to the entrance of a deep bay, whose bottom was filled by a body of ice so compact as to precliulo the idea of a pn'ssage through it; whilst at the same time, the traverse across its mouth was attended with much danger, from the approach of a large field of ice, which was driving down before the wind. The dread of detention, however, induced them to proceed, and in an hour and a half they landed on the opposite shore, where they halted to repair the ranocs and to dine. On the 30th they brea1^ rasted on a small deer which St. Germain had Julled ; and sent men in pursuit of some others in sight, but with which tliey did not come up. Ro- embark- ing, they passed a river without perceiving it. Their stock of provison being now reduced to eight days' consumption, it had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a sup- ply; and OS tlicy had learned from White Fox that tlie Es- quimaux 1.'! (juent the rivers at this season, Captain Frank- lin determined on seeking a rommunication with them here, in tlie hope of obtainin"; relief for their present wants, or even shelter for llie winter, if the season should prevent re- turning either to the Hook's party, or Fort Enterprise ; and he was the more induced to take this step at this time, as several deer had been seen, and the river appeared good for fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Hepburn, were therefore furnished with necessary presents, and desired to go along the bank of the river as far they could, on the following day, ■■ in search of the natives, to obtain provision and leather, as well as information respecting the coast. Having dispatched Hcpliuin and the Esquimaux, others of the party were employed in setting the nets. They met however with but little success in fishing, as they caught only one salmon and five small fish. The hunters, who had been sent out to procure provision, returned the next day, bring- ing in two small deer and a bear, and shortly after another TO THB POLAIt SUA. fli hunter brought in n deer. The party who had been sent to look for the Esquimaux also returned, not having met with any persons on their journey. On the 1st of August the party ]»roceedcd down the inlet, and afterwards running along the eastern shore, rounded a point of land which they named Point Wollaston, and then opened on an extensive sheet of water. Approaching a small island, they entered a bay and pitched their tents on the shore. Being confined the following day by the rising of a strong gale of wind, the hunters were sent out, whiie some of the officers walked to the top of some hills to take a view of their situation, and to ascertain whether they were amid a cluster of islands or near the continent, the broken appear- ance of the land rendering the circumstance doubtful whe- ther they were skirting the shores of the sea, or proceeding through a large inlet. Under these impressions they often landed and ascended the highest hills to ascertain their situa- tion. After continuing their voyage until the 5th, they had the mortification to find the inlet terminated in a small river ; and sailing back on the opposite shore, were until the 10th of August before they again entered upon the open sea. In the course of their progress through this inlet, Junius killed a musk-ox, and others of the party killed two bears, and a few lean deer. The bears were fat and in good condition, and the Canadian voyagers, who had been disposed to com- plain from the fear of a scantiness of food, were highly pleased at feeding on the fat meat of the bear. On the 11th they rounded a point which was named Point Everitt, and then encountered a strong breeze and heavy swell, which by causing the canoes to pitch very much, greatly impeded their progress. Some deer being seen grazing in a valley near the beach, they landed and sent St. Ger- main and Adam in pursuit of them, who soon killed three, which were very small and lean. Their appearance, how • ever, quite revived the spirits of the men, who had suspected that the deer had retired to the woods. Resuming the voy- P. V. 21. R 11 R i M liU f'.r',j t ( m f i I <•>; 'Hhi^- 400 VRANKLIN'S JOURNRY fc: ' '' f« age after noon, (hey proceeded along the coast, which is fringed by islands; and at five in the afternoon, entered another bay, where they were for some ti..ie involved in diflicul- ties by the intricacy of the passages; but having cleared them in the afternoon, they encamped near the northern entrance of the bay, at a spot which hud recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux, as the remains of some eggs con* taiuing young were lying beside some half-burnt wood. There were also several piles of stones put up by them. Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, they pro- ceeded against a fresh piercing north-east wind, which raised the waves to a height that quite terrified some of the people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers and lakes. They resolved, however, to persevere, feeling that the short sea- son for operations was hastening away ; but after rounding Cape Groker the wind became so strong that they could pro- ceed no further, and encamped for the night. On the fol- lowing day a paddle was found, which Augustus, on exami- nation, declared to be made after the fashion of the White Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his countrymen had had some trading communication. Some articles left by them attracted attention ; they found a winter sledge raised upon four stones, with some snow-shovels, a small piece of whale- bone, an ice-chisel, a knife and some beads. Most of the headlands they now visited shewed that the Esquimaux bad been upon them. On the 24th they saw some geese and swans, and also several deer, but the coun- try being open they easily escaped. In the evening, after the tents were pitched, Mr. Back stated that the canoes were materially damaged. On examination it appeared that fif- teen timbers of one of the canoes were broken, and that the others were so loose in the frame, that there was danger of the bark separating if exposed to a heavy sea. Distressing as were these circumstances, they gave less pain than the discovery that the voyagers, who had hitherto displayed a courage beyond expectation, now felt serious apprehensions %.. >4 TO Tilli IMILAR KUA. 401 for their safety, which so possessed their minds that they were not restrained even by the presence of their ofTicers from ex- pressing them. Tlieir fears hud been principally excited by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, who from tho out* ■et had foreboded every calamity. The strong breezes which now prevailed and other circum- stances indicated that tho winter was fast sotting in, and le- vere weather was to be expected. Destitute as the country was of fuel, and reduced as their stock of provisions now was to about three days consumption, it became the duty of Cup- tain Franklin to bo careful for the safety of his people. Though rein-deer were seen, they could not bo easily ap- proached on the level shores they were now coasting, besides it was to be apprehended they would soon m^rute to the south. It was evident that the time spent in exploring tha •ounds and inlets had precluded the hope of reaching Re- pulse Bay, which at the outset of the voyn -t- they had fondly cherished ; and it was equally obvious that as the distance from any of the trading establishments would increase as they proceeded, the hazardous traverse across the barren grounds, which they would have to make, if compelled to abandon the canoes upon any part of the coast, would become greater. On stating to the officers his sentiments on these points, their opinions coincided with his own. All were convinced of the necessity of putting a speedy termination to thoir voy- age, as a hope of meeting the Esquimaux and of their procuring provision from them, could now scarcely be re- tained ; but yet all were desirous of proceeding, until th« land should be seen trending again to the eastward. As it was needful, however, at all events, to set a limit to thek voyage, it was determined to return in the course of four days, unless they should meet the Esquimaux, and be ena- bled to make some arrangement for passing the winter with them. This communication was joyfully received by the men, and it was hoped that the industry of the hunters being thus excited, they should be able to add to their stock of proTitioa. R R R 2 }l ,l1 , •I if' ( f y ■f i;' ' i I, liii III 493 FBANKLINS JOURNKY On the 16th of August they paddled along the coast for several miles, until at length a thick fog compelled them co land on a point of land to which they gave the name of Slate Clay Point? At this place they found marks of its having been visited by the Esquimaux, although none were now to be seen. A human skull was also found set up on a conspi- cuous part. Continuing their progress along the coast, they passed a deep bay, and rounding a point of land which they named Cape Flinders, proceeded northward, with an open sea, quite clear of islands. This view of the great ex- panse of waters excited great astonishment in the Canadian voyagers, who had not before obtained an uninterrupted view of the ocean. They continued their course along the coast until evening, when a change in the wind and a threatening thunder squall caused them to encamp ; but the water was so shallow, that they found some difficulty in approaching the shore. Large pieces of drift wood evidenced that they had finally escaped from the bays. Their tents were scarcely pitched before they were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was suc- ceeded by a violent gale from west-north-west, which thrice overset the tents during the night. The wind blew with equal violence on the following day, and the sea rolled furi- ously upon the beach. The Canadians had now an opportu- nity of witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea ; and the sight increased their desire of quitting it. The hunters were sent out, and saw many deer, but the flatness of the country defeated their attempts to approach them ; they brought, however, a few unfledged geese. As there was no appearance of increasing their stock of provision, the allowance was limited to a handful of pemmican, and a small portion of portable soup to each man per day. The la- titude was 68° 18' N., longitude 110° 5' W. On August 18th the stormy weather and sea continuing, there was no prospect of being able to embark. Dr. Riob- ardson, Mr. Back, and Captain Franklin, therefore, set out TO TUB POLAK SKA. 493 > coast for ■d them co [»e of Slate its having ere now to in a conspi- coast, they which they ith an open > great ex- le Canadian rrupted view ntil evening, lunder squall shallow, that lore. Large oally escaped ;d hefore they lich was suc- which thrice nd blew with ea rolled furi- w an opportu- 3 sea; and the deer, but the ts to approach Bd geese. As ;k of provision, nmican, and a rday. The la- sea continuing, rk. Dr. Bich- erefore, set out on foot to discover whether the land within a day's march in- clined more to the east. They went from ten to twelve miles along the coast, which continued flat, and kept the same di- rection as the encampment. The most distant land had the same bearing north-north-east, and appeared like two is- lands, which was estimated to be six or seven miles off; the shore on their side seemingly trended more to the east, so that it is probable Point Turnagain, for so this spot was named, forms the pitch of a low flat cape. Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but the men were not able to find it. The hunters found the burrows of a num- ber of white foxes, and Hepburn killed one of these ani- mals, which proved excellent eating, equal to the young geese, with which it was boiled, and far superior to the lean deer upon the coast. Large flocks of geese passed over the tents, flying to the southward. The lowest temperature to- day was 88** Though Point Turnagain is only six degrees and a half to the east of the mouth of the Copper-mine River, they sailed, in tracing the deeply indented coast, five hundred and fifty- five geographic miles, which is little less than the direct dis- tance between the Copper-mine River and Repulse Bay. Having extended his voyage to the utmost limits which the season and circumstances would admit, Captain Franklin now contemplated his return. To have attempted to proceed would have been to have put the lives of the people under his charge to the greatest hazard. With scarcely any provi- sions, and failing of all intercourse with the Esquimaux, it would have been an unjustifiable circumstance to delay any longer their return. It therefore became a matter of deep importance to determine by what rout they should proceed. His original intention had been to return by the Copper- mine River, and in pursuance of arrangements with the Hook to travel to Slave Lake, through the line of woods extending thither by the Great Bear and Marten Lakes ; but the scanty itock of their provision and the length pf the voyage rendered I i -f: i. f II 404 IrRANKLlN's JOURNEY /):- it necessary to make for a nearer place. They had found that the country, in the direction of the Copper-mine River, •would hot supply their wants, and this it seemed probable would now be still more the case at this advanced season ; and they had to expect the frequent recurrence of gales, which would cause great detention, if not danger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the coast. He determined, therefore, to make at once for Arctic Sound, where they had found the animals raore numerous than at any other place ; and entering Hood's River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navigable, and then to construct small canoes out of the materials of the larger ones, which could be car- ried in crossing the barren grounds to Fort Enterprise. They remained at their encampment until the 32nd, and during their stay, Junius, Belanger, and Michel were sent to search for a deer which had been killed. Junius returned in the evening, bringing part of the meat, but owing to the thickness of the weather, his companions parted from him and did not make their appearance. Divine ser- vice was read. On the 20th they were presented with the most chilling prospect, the small pools of water being fro- zen over, the ground covered with snow, and the thermome- ter at the freezing point at mid-day. Flights of geese were passing to the southward. The wind, however, was mode- rate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable anxi- ety now prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, others were sent out to look for them. The search was successful, and they all returned in the evening. The stragglers were much fatigued; and had suffered severely from the cold, one of them havhig his thighs frozen, and what under pre- sent circumstances was most grievous, they had thrown away all the meat. The wind during the night returned to the north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and raised a very turbulent sea, the snow remained on the ground, and the small pools wre frozen. The hunters were sent out, but they returnovl .vfter a fatiguing day's march without 'V <'U TO THB POLAR SEA. 495 ad found ne River, probable iason ; and les, wbich jroceeding Btermined, Inhere they ther place ; stream as nail canoes uld be car- jrise. They and during it to search he meat, but nions parted Divine ser- ed with the ;r being fro- e thermome- f geese were was mode- erable anxi- ichel, others as successful, ragglers were »ra the cold, it under pre- i thrown away urned to the er, and raised e ground, and irere sent out, aarcb without having seen any animals, and they made a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag remained. Cheered by the prospect of returning, the men shewed the utmost alacrity on embarking ; and, paddling with unusual vigour, they crossed Riley's and Walker's Bays, a distance of twenty miles, before noon, when they landed on Slate- Clay Point, as the wind had freshened too much to permit them to continue the voyage. The whole party went to hunt, but returned without success in the evening, drenched with the heavy rainVhich commenced soon after they had set out. Several deer were seen, but could not be approached in this naked country ; and as their stock of pemmican did not admit of serving out two meals, they went dinnerless to bed. It is a curious coincidence that this Expedition left Point Turnagain on August 22nd, on the same day that Captain Parry sailed out of Repulse Bay. The parties were then distant from each other 539 miles. A severe frost caused them to pass a comfortless night on the 33rd, and in the afternoon of that day they launched out to make a traverse of fifteen miles across Melville Sound, before a strong wind and heavy sea. The privation of food under which the voyagers were then labouring absorbed every other terror, otherwise the most powerful persuasion could not have induced them to attempt such a traverse. It was with the utmost difficulty that the canoes were kept from turning their broadsides to the waves, though they sometimes steered with all the paddles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by this accident, which occurred in a mid-chan- nel, where the waves were so high that the mast-head of one canoe was often liid from the other, though it was sailing within hail. On the 24th they crossed the entrance of the bay, which had before taken them so many days in sailmg up, and landed on an island near the opposite shore. Some deer being seen on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them, and suc- ceeded in killing three females, which enabled them to save I 1 ; \ * _.. ? ' i ' ■ -' r ^'■■i i i ^ .!' I m '{ ti ' I i\;. l ,;! f 490 prank.lin'm journey their laat remaining meal of pemmican. They saw also some fresh tracks of musk-oxen on the banks of a small stream which flowed into a lake in the centre of the island. These animals must have crossed a channel at least~ three miles wide, to reach the nearest of these islands. On the 25th the hunters killed two deer, which relieved them from ap- prehension of immediate want of food. From the deer assem- bling at this time in numbers on the islands nearest to the coast, it was conjectured that they were about to retire to the main shore. Those they saw were generally females with their young, and all of them very lean. Leaving this island they entered Hood's River, which they ascended as high as the first rapid and encamped. Here terminated their voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. The Canadian voyagers could not restrain their joy at having turned their backs on the sea, and passed the evening in talking over their past adventures with much humQur and no little exaggeration. The consideration that the most painful, and certainly the most hazardous part of the journey, was yet fo come, did not depress their spirits at all. It is due to their character to mention that they displayed much courage in encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them by their novelty. On leaving their encampment on the 26th of August, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles, were put up in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English Union was planted on the lof- tiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships passing in the offing. Here also was deposited, in a tin box, a letter containing an outline of the proceedings, the latitude and longitude of the principal places, and the course they intended to pursue towards Slave Lake. Embarking at eight in the morning, they proceeded up the river which is full of sandy shoals, but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is from one hundred to two hundred yards V f Ml TO Tllli I'OLAU SKA. 4S)7 Iso some II stream . These ree miles the 25th from ap- eer assem- est to the to retire to males with ver, which ped. Here iring "which phical miles, oy at having e evening in mpur and no most painful, rney, -wasyet It is due to nuch courage ed to them by )f August, an 5-glasses, aud tuation for the ted on the lof- y ships passing 1 a tin box, a s, the latitude the course they Embarking at ^e river which is )r canoes in the hundred yards wide, and bounded by high and steep banks of clay. Bear and deer tracks had been numerous on the banks of the river when they were here before, but not a single recent one was to be seen at this time. Credit, however, killed a small deer at some distance inland, which, with the addition of berries, furnished a delightful repast. The weather was remarkably fine, and the temperature so mild, that the mus- quitoes again made their appearance, but not in any great numbers. The next morning the net furnished ten white fish and trout. Having made a further deposit of iron work for the Esquimaux, they pursued their journey up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part were so frequent, that they walked along the banks the whole day, and the crews laboured hard in carrying the canoes, when lightened, over the shoals or dragging them up the rapids. The walls of a chasm through]which the river flowed were two hundred feet hgih, quite perpendicular, and in some places few yards apart. The river precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and picturesque falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet high, and the lower one at least one hundred; but perhaps considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell prevented them from seeing its bottom, and they could merely discern the top of the spray far beneath their feet. The lower fall is divided into two, by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty feet above it. The whole descent of the river at this place was about two hundred and fifty feet. Captain Franklin named these magnificent cascades " Wilberforce Falls," as a tribute of respect for that distinguished philan- thropist and christian. The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill, above these falls, appeared so rapid and shallow, that it seemed useless to attempt proceeding any farther in the large canoes, he therefore determined on con- structing out of their materials two smaller ones of suflicient size to contain three persons, for the purpose of crossing any river that might obstruct their progress. This operation was P. V. 81. S s 6 I'h ■ i '\k 1 i ■' * 1 \ . 1 kv. i II; II 0,1 and bv the 31st both the canoes accordingly commenced, ^^2 ^^^^^^-^^^^ .ein, finished. ^^^ ^^f^X^^^^^^^^^^^ making shoes The leather >vhich had been p ^^ ^^^^^^ .as equally divided -"^^^f/^^ '..eh alticles of .arm socks were S^ven to each per^on.^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ,^^^, ,,. clothing as --7;'^' j;; ^^^, ,„^uhed >vith one of the quired them. Ihey wer p^„tain Tranklin commu- nicuted to .ha men >■■» '» ^'-Jr^ij;. ^^,, which «a» on., course .3 posaWe to a p«t o, ^ .traightUno. The people «'«"^* *' J" „„d were in high spirit,. The .Ured the journey to be short. ^^_^^^^^^ ,„ ^^ ..ore., books, &o.«h.ch«reno^a __^^__,^ ^__^^j^_^ carrled,«relettbehmd,n order tua „igUt be «, lighv as P"'*^ .„, ,,^ 8„e. Ever, one The next mommg r»as warm, ^^ ^„^. «as on the aiert at ^^^^l^^Lo^ ammunition, mouce aie journey. '^^\'«°„„„i„d instruments, clothmg, nets, hatchets, ice chjseU,.^o-m^^^^^.^^ ^^^^ bhnkets, three k^"'-'™*,,'!, ,„„ied such a portion ot carried by one ™»-,X°u would permit , the weight tUeir own things as tl>e,r »'«"»"^ ^^^^.^ „„a with this carried by each --- ^f ITuLL au hour, including they advanced »' *"»;^ w„ed a lean cow. out of rests. In the evening the n ^^^^ ^^_^ _____^^ ,,arge drove of ^""^^'^^o. of its flesh. The laden to carry more than a smal P ^^^ ^^^^ ^„, alluvial soil, which ^^^'J^rnow more barren and covered with grass -nd w>"«s ^^^^.^__^ ^^__^^. hilly, so that they cenM l""2;''^, „id„ight their ten. was wood to cook their suppers _ _^^_^ ^^^^^^ ^^^„^^,j blown down by a squall, and '""y; ;:^h rain before i. -'f ^'';:rrs;;ember. a fall of snow .?;;rrca»o:rbec:::acrus.ofde,ay.fromth. 8 canoes ing sboes of flannel s of warm ) most re- ine of the in commu- , s direct a ■h was only traight line, ully, consi- spirits. The essary to be sa's burdens Every one tous to com- ammunition, nts, clothing, ;h were each li a portion of it; the weight and with this our, including in cow, out of were too much its flesh. The the river was ire barren and uflicient brush- it their tent was iletely drenched r, a fall of snow delav, from the TO THB POLAR SUA. iOO difficulty of carrying them in a high wind, and they sus- tained much damage through the fall of those who had charge of them. At the end of eleven miles they encamped, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer, wiiich St. Germain and Au- gustus had killed. The day was extremely cold, the ther- mometer varying between 34° and 36**. In the afternoon a heavy fall of snow took place, on the wind changing from north-west to south-west. Thay found no wood at the en- campment, but made a Hre of moss to cook tho supper, and crept under their blankets for warmth. Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill near the tents, that the river continued to preserve a wesi course ; and fearing that by pursuing it further they might lose much time, and unnecessarily walk over a great deal of ground, Capt. Franklin determined on quitting its banks the next day, and making as directly as they could for Point Lake. They accordingly followed the river on the 3d, only to the place where a musk-ox had been killed, and aftei the meat was procured, crossed the river in the two canoes lashed together. Having walked twelve miles and a half, on the 4th, they encamped at seven in the afternoon, and distributed their last piece of pemmican, and a little arrow-root for supper, which aflbrded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm, but dark clouds overspread the sky. The men now began to find their burdens very oppressive, and were much fatigued by this day's march, but did not complain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in the knee. Heavy rain com- menced at midnight, and continued without intermission until five in the morning, when it was succeeded by snow, on the wind changing to north-west, which soon increased to a violent gale. As they had nothing to eat, and were desti- tute of the means of making a fire, they remained in bed all the day ; but the covering of the blankets was insuflicient to prevent feelings the severity of the frost, and suffering incon- S S 8 t i| f. { " ?\ '• u • >, ^ ll J i ( i Ml I mi ■ 1; , 1 k . :■* 1 ; flOO l'RANKL>INh> JOUUNl'.Y venieoce from the drifting of the snow into the tents. There was no ahatement of the storm next day ; tne tents were completely frozen, and the snow had drifted around them to a depth of three feet, and even in the inside there was a covering of several inches on the blankets. On the morning of the 7th, just as they were about to commence their march, Capt. Franklin was seized with a faint- ing fit, in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to the wind; after eating a morsel of portable soup, he re- covered so far as to be able to move on. Those who carried the canoes were repeatedly blown down by the violence of the wind, and they often fell, from making an insecure step on a slippery stone ; on one of these occasions, the largest canoe was so much broken as to be rendered utterly unser- viceable. This was a serious disaster, as the remaining canoe having through mistake been made too small, it was. doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry them across a river. As the accident could not be remedied, they turned it to the best account, by making a fire of the bark and timbers of the broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of the portable soup and arrow-root. This was a scanty meal after three days' fasting, but it served to allay the pangs of hunger and enabled them to proceed at a quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow caused them to march in Indian file, that is in each other's steps; the voyagers taking it in turn to lead the party. A considerable quantity of tripe de roche was gathered, and with half a partridge each, (which they shot in the course of the day,) furnished a slender supper, which they cooked with a few willows, dug up from beneath the snow. They passed a comfortless night in their damp clothes, but took the precaution of sleeping upon their socks and shoes to pre- vent them from freezing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout the journey. At half past five in the morning they proceeded ; and after TO TUB I'OLAR gUA. 5ftl Avalkinr ,,»jut two miles, came to Cracrofr's Kiver, flowing to the wfistward, with u very rapid current over a rocky channel. They had much dUIiculty in crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from the .. '■■ m of the channel being obstructed by large stones, but also from its requiring gum- ming, an operation which, owing to the want of wood and the frost, they were unable to perform. However, after following the course of the river some distance, they etlected a passage by m^'uns of a range of large rocks that crossed a rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the rocks were covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, the men were exposed to much danger in carrying their heavy burdens across, and several of them actually slipped into the stream, but were immediately rescued by the others. Their only meal to-day consisted of a partridge each (which the hunters shot,) mixed with tripe de roche. This repast, although scanty for men with appetites such as their daily fatigue created, proved a cheerful one, and was received with thankfulness. Most of the men had to sleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence of Credit, who carried their tent ; but they fortunately found an unusual quantity of roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much from the cold, though the thermometer was at 17**. They started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two miles regained the hunters, who were halting on the borders of a lake amidst a clump of stunted willows This lake stretched to the westward as far as they could see, and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream one hundred and fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where they might be led by pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading the idea of going amile unnecessarily out of the way, they de- termined on crossing the river if possible ; and the canoe was gummed for the purpose, the willow furnishing them with fire. Junius, who had been sent to seek for the best crossing place, arrived in the afternoon and f >id that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracroft's River, ' 1 ' ( .1 M • ( ' I w \ f r : iri;i« j U '( fatigued, h"""8.«"*>,lto»«bla for cro..l«g *e nver. weather ^a. patteularly lavou ^^^^^ ^_^ ^^^ ^^^„ ,„„„ .he, could not allov, him to re^, ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^,„^ p« i„to .he water «» ^»* " g, Je^ain, Ma">. ""^ L„.gea with much dexteM, y ^^^ _^^ ^ ,^^, „ Pelaer. who '"'f J" i,„ „„ means a pleasant po,,Uo„, hto to He flat on -.» ''°"°"'' '•,[^,, „, „„ .Iternatlve The owing .0 "»'"'';';•';' "Effected by i-.vao'aocl., and transport of the whole party w ^^ j_^^_„^ ;S^::r:::ron;U^^^^^^^^^^^^^ rs^rr;:cr:rrbrghtib,.anias,.r„ishc,.tho .upper of the whole P'jrty- ^._^^, „i„. foggy at- On the 10th they had "»"' „,„ ^a, hilly, and ensphere. The ^°™;^, *:y "irgatheriug tripe de roche „ore deeply covered w.th now ^ ^„„„ely sufc- Ae cold was so benum ■»» *^ ' ;' ^^^ .,„ „ack „f a oient for a scanty '-"f,]^"^ ,^„ „ the snow. About „„n, and also several tracks o. ^^^.^ j„y^ :„„„ the weather f -' XeJ'"' ^ng in a valley below they saw a herd of J««^°'^', \|.e ^, h«nter> were sent The party instantly ^*«*- J,^^,, ^m. the «f..ost cauUon, out; they approached '•'J™ ^ofore they gotwith- „o less than two h.,urb^ng con ^^^^ ^^^^_ ^^^^ „, gun-shot. One oi <^'-^l ,^t^ .pirit into he „„unded, but escaped Tto ^__j__^^^ ^^^^ ti,„ .tarving party, /^o ^-^footnt! of its stomach were de- ,orkofatewn,mu.e» Thee __^^^.^^,_ ,h.chwe|.> voured upon the 'f^'-J^Zi by the most delicate to be excellent. * »"" >TOUght lat had much as the le river, L.en some oe being )ut it was dam, and causing t position, Live. The 'clock, and iviug coma use. Two jvhich, with rnishef' tho th foggy at- , hilly, and :ipe de roche carcely suffi- le track, of a now. About eir great joy, valley below. :exi were sent ujoat caution, they got with- ; another was spirit into the mal were tho omach were de- es, which were t delicate to be .eeping through TO THU fOLAA HUX. A09 the snow at the bottom of the valley, were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked, and devoured wiih avidity. This was the sixth day since they had had a good meal ; the tripo de roche, even where they got enough, only serving to allay the pangs of hunger for a short time. After supper, two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but could not get near them. The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and as they were fearful of its continuance for .some time, they deter- mined on going forward ; their only doubt regarded the pre- servation of the canoe, but the men promised to pay particu- lar attention to it, and the most careful persons were ap- pointed to take it in charge. The snow was two feet deep and the gpround much broken, which rendered the march ex- tremely painful. The whole party complained more of faint- ness and weakness than they had ever done before ; their strength seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply of animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and the snow ceased ; cheered with the change, they proceeded for- ward at a quicker pace, and encamped at six in the after- noon, having come eleven miles. Supper consumed the last of the meat. On the 13th they came to the borders of a large lake. They coasted along it to the westward in hopes of finding a crossing place, and aftera journey of only six miles encamped for the evening. They had only a single partridge, upon which and tripe de roche the party supped. This evenuig they were extremely distressed, at discovering that their companions had thrown away three of the iishing-nets, and burnt the floats. Being thus deprived of their principal re- source, that of fishing, and the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became necessary to lighten their burdens of every thing except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments that were required to find their way. Captain Franklin, therefore, issued directions to deposit at this encampment the dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large ther- t 1 ■.! ''■I 'I H',, li f „on.e.er. .nd • '":" ^°';;ri." <.b«Tv..i»«. to. l..iM. p.,., .. «ere reimred to «orK and lonptude. ^ ^ecr, they hated ^heJl .he current «.» "•»' "°^;„„„ Belanger. and Cap- the water, --> «'• *^f"" '"' ,a To cr„». The, went fron, ..in Franklin, -^"\" „ mit anneUhe eanoe hee.n.0 d.m- the .here very well, hut in m-i ^ree/* «"» ''««''• „„U ,0 nanage under "« ""^^ ;" „f . „pid. when Be- The current drove them to .1» ^dg ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ,„„. Ungerunluckily awhedh' I>»^^^^^^^^^ The oa- „r ot being forced down .1, «nd __f ^,,^ „p,j. Le wa. over«=t in -"'^f'", '"„1.„ .hey touched . rock The, fortunately kept ^"'^^''-^^^ .Lir w«i.«; here .here the water did not re.» „j .,, d„, kept fooUng, """""^"'^ 7„„. „f the canoe. Belan- „nt, until the «'<"""" T*"!''?!. St. Germain placed ger then held the canoe '^»-;^:^, Sharked Ita-lf in Captain Franklin in .t, ^ » '^J^,"! ,ihle, however, to a very dextrous manner, u ^^^^ ^„„,ed embark Belanger a. *» """ J .C have ra,,ed his foot down the rapid, ""=,■"7° "' fj They were, therefore. ftomthe rock on '-"-'• ""/^^tu, .ituatio". They had compelled to leave '>- -.'^'^\'^"„„„„e, striking on a sunken „„, gone »«"'""tttace being shallow, they wereagam rock. ^-'H' ■'»«"■ .''^Cttod attempt brought them to enabled to empty .t. and 'Ue ^^ ^^^^^.^^ .he shore. In the "^-^ "^ ^, ,^\, centra of a rap.d, .remely. immersed to te m ^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ,he temperature ot wluch was very ^^^^^^^ ^.^^ ^^, point, and the upper part "'j _ '„„ch above zero, to dothes. exposed in a ''"-^^ZoXfr relief, and St. a strong breeze. He -"^l /* ^.o emUrk him, butiu Germain on his -^ J .^7^:1 rapid, and when he vain. The canoe was hurneci ao TO -niu roLAK kUA. AU5 landed ho was rendered by tin! cold inrapable of further ex- ertion, and Adam attempted to embark BelanKer, but ft>un«l it wa« impossible. An attempt wa.s nc^xt made to carry out to him a line, made of tlio slings of the men's loads. Tliis olso failed, the current acting so strongly ujjon it, as to prevent the canou from steering, and it was linally broken and carried down the stream. At length, when Belanger's strength seemed almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with a small cord belonging to one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly senseless through the rapid. By the di- rection of Dr. Richardson, he was instantly stripped, and be- ing rolled up in blankets, two men undressed themselves and went to bed with him ; but it was some hours before he reco- vered his warmth and sensations. As soon us Belanger was placed in his bed, the odicers sent over some blankets, and a person to make a fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, and in returning ho w.as obliged to descend both the rapids, before he could get across the stream ; which ha/.urdous ser- vice he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment. By this accident Captain Franklin had the misfortune to lose his port-folio, containing bis journal from Fort Enter- prise, together with all the astronomical and meteorological observations made during the descent of the Copper-mine River, and along the sea-coast. • On the 15th, the rest of the party were brought across, and Belanger was so much recovered as to be able to proceed, but they could not set out until noon, as the men had to pre- pare substitutes for the slings which were lost. Soon after leaving the encampment they discerned a herd of deer, and after a long chase a fine male was killed by Perrault. The party were now in good spirits at the recollection of having crossed the rapid, and being in possession of provision for the next day. Besides which, they took the precaution to bring away the skin of the deer to eat when the meat should fail. On the 16th, the party again commenced their journey at P. V. 22. T T T i\i n^ l^i J I.' 'J ^l 500 franklin's journey jft seven o'clock in the morniDg. After having travelled for a few hours they came to a spot where they observed branches of willows visible above the snow, and they halted for the purpose of providing some refreshment. As they proceeded they found the country extremely rugged, and their toil in ascending and descending the different ravines with which the country was intersected was great and very fatiguing. They met with some deer tracks, and also marks which had been placed by Indians as direction points. On the 17th they saw some deer, and found the track of a large herd which the hunters said had passed the day before ; unfortu- nately however they failed in killing either the deer they saw, or of overtaking the herd whose foot-steps they had traced. They were therefore compelled to put up with a scanty meal upon some pieces of a singed hide, and some tripe de roche. On the 18th they came to another track of the rein-deer, who had passed in such numbers as to produce a beaten road, which they followed for a short time, until it deviated from the course to Slave Lake so much as to render it necessary to quit it. They crossed several small lakes, which were now so frozen as to be capable of being crossed without the least hazard. Their repast this evening consisted only of the tripe de roche which they had gathered during their pro- gress. A great fall of snow took place this evening, and the whole party were become extremely faint, so that on the fol- lowing day it was with difficulty that they got forwards on their way. Notwithstanding all their difficulties, however, they proceeded about ten miles on their journey. They were obliged to gather Iceland moss this evening for their suppers, not having met with any tripe de roche during the whole of the day. It was however a substitute so unpleasant and bit- ter, that most of the party partook of but a very small por- tion. The severity of the weather was now so piercing that it is vonderfnl how they were enabled to endure it. At the m veiled for a red branches ilted for the !y proceeded I their toil in } with which ■ry fatiguing. :ks which had On the 17th a large herd fore; unfortu- the deer they steps they had put up with a flde, and some the rein-deer, 3 a beaten road, t deviated from ler it necessary es, which were ssed without the )nsisted only of luring their pro- jvening, and the o that onthefol- got forwards on .ulties, however, ney. They were for their suppers, ring the whole of jpleasant and hit- very small poi- piercing that it is idure it. At the TO THE POLAR SBA. 507 conclusion of the day's march the first operation was to thaw their frozen shoes, if a sufficient fire could be made, and dry ones were put on ; each person then wrote his notes of the daily occurrences, and evening prayers were read ; as soon as supper was prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and they went to bed, and kept up a conversation until their blankets were thawed by the heat of their bodies. On many nights they did not even go to bed in dry clothes, for when the fire was insufficient to dry their shoes, they would not ven- ture to pull them off, lest they should freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and, therefore, inconvenient to carry. By the 20th, travelling became so laborious that the party proceeded with great difficulty. Mr. Hood, who had hitherto followed the leading man to direct him in the line of march which was to be pursued, became so weak that he could no longer sustain his post, and Dr. Richardson was obliged to occupy it. By calculation they were so near to Point Lake that they expected to be within view of it this evening ; and this so inspirited the men that they proceeded on quickly. Af- ter all their efforts however they were disappointed of see- ing it ; and this, with a sparing supply of tripe de roche, so excited their murmurs that they threatened to give up all further efforts and to quit the party ; and this it is not im- probable would have been the case if they had not been con- vinced that the captain had the means of tracing the direct road, which they themselves did not possess. On the 21st they again set forward, although the men were much dispirited and very weak. By taking an obser- vation Captain Franklin found they were six miles too much inclined to the southward of that part of Point Lake to which they had purposed to journey, and accordingly they altered their course, and fired some muskets to give the hunters an intimation of the change of their rout. Some tripe de roche, and two partridges which they had killed, were all which they were able to procure this day. The error which C^- T T T 2 .j!^'< '. I'.- h'ifi I: k u 5fle THANK Lin S JOIUNKY tain Franklin had fallen into in calculating their journey to Point Lake now excited increasing fears in the Canadians, as they supposed they had lost their way and were returning back again. On the two following days their progress was extremely slow, and they were arrested in their journey by a large lake, along the banks of which they were compelled to walk for a considerable distiince. Joseph Peltier, one of the Canadian voyagers, who carried the canoe, having fallen several times, by which the canoe was greatly injured, at last refused to carry it, and it was given to Registe Vaillant, ano- ther of the Canadians, who managed to carry it with greater ease to himself, and they made for a time considerable speed. Captain Franklin and Dr. Richp.rdson, not going forwards with the party, but following afterwards, accidfi/\lly passed them ; and not finding a track to guide them, z'^i .si and discovered their companions among some wil ^'^ tvhere they had found some pieces of skin and bones of a deer, on which, added to some old shoes, they were making a meal. They found Peltier and Vaillant also here, who said that the canoe was so broken by another fall as to be perfectly use- less, and that they had left it behind. The anguish this in- telligence occasioned may be conceived, but cannot be de- scribed. Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking it forwai J, even in the state these men represented it to be, Captain Franklin urgently desired them to fetch it; but they declined going, and the strength of the officers was in- adequate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on this occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circumstances which attended their subsequent progress may, perhaps, be attributed. The men now seemed to have lost all hope of being preserved ; and all the arguments that could be used failed in stimulating them to the least exertion. After con- stiraing the remains of the bones aud horns of the deer, fhey resumed their march, and in the evening reached a con- tracted part of the lake, which they forded, and encamped oh the opposite side. Heavy rain began soon afterward* TO THE POLAR SUA. 509 and continued all night. On the following morning the rain had so wasted the snow, that the tracks of Mr. Back and his companions, who had gone before Avith the hunters, were traced with difficulty ; and the frequent showers during the day almost obliterated them. The men became furious at the apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and some of the strongest throwing down their bundles, prepared to set out after them, intending to leave the more weak to fol- low as they could. The entreaties and threats of the officers, however, prevented their executing thi'^ mad scheme ; but not before Solomon Belauger was dispatched with orders for Mr. Back to halt. Soon afterwards they overtook Mr. Back, who had been detained in consequence of his companions having followed some recent tracks of deer. After halting an hour, during which they refreshed themselves with eating their old shoes, and a few scraps of leather, they set forward in the hope of ascertaining whether an adjoining piece of wa- ter was the Copper-mine River or not, but were soon com- pelled to return and encamp, for fear of a separation of the party, as they could not see each other at ten yards' distance. The fog diminishing towards evening, Augustus was sent to examine the water, but having lost his way he did not reach the tents before midnight, when he brought the infor- mation of its being a lake. They supped upon tripe deroche, and enjoyed a comfortable fire, having found some pines, seven or eight feet high, in a valley near the encampment. The next morning, they killed five small deer out of a herd, which came in sight as they were on the point of starting. This unexpected supply re-animated the drooping spirits of the men, and filled every heart with gratitude. They so earnestly and strongly pleaded their recent sufierings, and their conviction, that the quiet enjoyment of two substantial meals, after eight days' fasting, would enable them to pro- ceed next day more vigorously, that their entreaties could not be resisted. The flesh, the skins, and even the contents of the stomachs of the deer were equally distributed among i' V r ■J 'I' I, '«,1 tl ■k ! i \ a 11% '.:» i tw 510 franklin's journey the palrty by Mr. Hood, who had volunteered, on the de- parture of Mr. Wentzel, to perform the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious task he had all along performed ^vith great impartiality, but seldom without producing some grumbling amongst the Canadians ; and, on the present oc- casion, the hunters were displeased that the heads and some other parts, had not been added to their portions. It is pro- per to remark, that Mr. Hood always, took the smallest por- tion for his own mess, but this weighed little with these men, as long as their own appetites remained unsatisfied. They all suffered much inconvenience from eating animal food after their long abstinence, but particularly those men who indulged themselves beyond moderation. The Canadians, with their usual thoughtlessness, consumed above a third of their por- tions of meat that evening. On the 26th they arrived at the Copper-mine River. It flowed to the northward, and after winding about five miles, terminated in Point Lake. Its current was swift, and there were two rapids in this part of its course, which in a canoe could have been crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as every other part of the river, were carefully exa- mined in search of a ford ; but finding none, the expedient occurred, of attempting to cross on a raft made of the wil- lows which were growing there, or in a vessel framed with willows, and covered with the canvass of the tents ; but both these schemes were ai>.<\ndoned, through the obstinacy of the interpreters and the most experienced voyagers, who de- clared that they would pro: e inadequate to the conveyance of the party, and that much tinie would be lost in the attempt. The men, in fact, did not believe that this was the Copper- mine River, aad so much had they bewildered themselves on the march, that some of them asserted it was Hood's River, and others that it was the Bethe-tessy, (a river which rises from a lake to the northward of Rum Lake, and holds a course to the sea parallel with that of the Copper-mine.) la short, their despondency had returned, and they all de- '6 de- the rmed some it oc- some s pro- it por- 5 men. They d after dulged th their jir por- River. miles, ftd there a canoe s rapids, lUy exa- xpedient the fil- med with but both acy of the who de- reyance of B attempt, e Copper- mselves on id's River, which rises ind holds a mine.) la bey all de- TO THE POLAR SEA. Oil spaired of seeing Fort Enterprise again. However, the steady assurances of the officers that they were actually on the banks of the Copper-mine River, and that the distance to Fort Enterprise did not exceed forty miles, made some impression upon them, which was increased upon their finding some bear-berry plants, which are reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward of the river. They then deplored their folly and impatience in breaking the canoe, being all of opi- nion, that had it not been so completely demolished on the 23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take the party over. Peltier and Vaillant were examined as lo its state, with the intention of sending for it ; but they persisted in the declaration, that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. St. Germain being called upon to endeavour to construct a ca- noe frame with willows, stated that he was unable to make one sufficiently large. It became necessary, therefore, to search for pines of sufficient size to form a raft ; and being aware that such trees grow on the borders of Point Lake, they considered it best to trace its shores in search-of them; and, therefore, resumed their march, carefully looking fur a fordable part, and encamped at the east end of Point Lake. As there was little danger of losing the path of the hunters whilst they coasted on the shores of this lake, Captain Frank- lin determined on again sending Mr. Back forward, with the interpreters to hunt. In this arrangement, he had the fur- ther object of enabling Mr. Back to get across the lake with two of the men, to convey the earliest possible account of their situation to the Indians. He instructed him to halt at the first pines he should come to, and then prepare a raft ; and if his hunters had killed any animals, he was to cross im- mediately with St. Germain and Beauparlant, and send the Indians as quickly as possible with supplies of meat. Mr. Back and his party set out at six in the morning, and Captain Franklin started at seven. As the snow had en- tirely disappeared, and there were no means of distinguish- ing the footsteps of stragglers, he gave strict orders for all 1 .11 I n J ; ii:; I 1 iM i '• • . ^ , ;■ i i \ llfcM 1. -„^ desired tbe two Esquimaux .^e part, .okeep «»f *- "^..rLye* >» -„ohof .he ,„, to leave them. Iheytavmg tVroagh de- „m«» of ■">"»''•■ ^'!J,X;d di»bec«ent, and had .pondenc, had become »«'^» " f„ ,e«ard. Much „Led to dread P-""™^"!;."; '^ to colleot them, but time «a. lost in hattmg and ta^ « ,^, ji«,p. tHe labour of -'"^X^Led seven or eight mile, pearance of the =no«. '"""^ j,, „f the loss of drrtance along the lake before """"•^f \, i,„g,h they eame to an in rounding its namerou, bays. A » parently con- arm. running away *.o «:;" ^tttcoasted on the 22nd. neoted with the lake »h.ch they h 28rd. and 24th. »' *•' ■"°"*;„„h „ extensive piece of «■ The idea of agam '°-*"S "* ^^ ,,,„df«l. and ter and travelling over »oban:en „ight obstruct they feared that other arm,, equal y ^^^^ ^_^^.^^,y hel path, and that the ' -«* °'* „nly part where the, fall, long before they -"'*;^'';;„„ o>ey halted to consider were certain of findmg wood J h y ^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ „t this subject, and to «°"';; *;J^\^„ ,hich it had fallen .., discovered in the »"^" ^.^ ^J^ ,;„,, ,ess acceptable to inthe spring. It >»»» ^^'L being kindled, alargepor- them on that account ■, and a i^«^;^^^ ^,^„,, h, this tion wa, devoured "" "«'3",„„,„i„e i„ the hope of bemg ™looked-for supply. ''-^"•; 2°„f „,„„„, ulthoughthey able to cross the »««■«" """J* tapraCicable, and the, had before ^e*"* '"^^^^Ccl to' the rapid, a request unauimousl,des.red to return ^^ ^^__._^^ ^ which was acceded to Cre ^^ ^^^.^^ ^^ ,^,„ ,„. missing, and >t was a o nece , ^j^^ y„. tention to Mr. Back "«* >" ^J^ and U was agreed to lake. limaux [of the rh de- ^d had Much ^m, but disap- iit miles listance le to an litly con- lie 22nd, je of wa- dful, and t obstruct entirely here they ;o consider e of a deer had fallen eptable to large por- ed by this )e of being hough they 1, and they , a request ever, were of their in- 1 being pro- s agreed to ould not fail or from Mr. ►rders of the TO TilK POLAR 6BA. 613 In the night they heard the report of Credit's gun in an- swer to signal muskets, and he rejoined them in the morn- ing, but they got no intelligence of Junius. Eight deer were seen by Michel and Credit, who loitered behind the rest of the party, but they could not approach '*";m. A great many shots were fired by those in the rear 'partridges, but they -'""od, or at least did not choose to auu what they killed to . j common stock. It was subse- quently learned that the hunters often secreted the partridges they shot, and ate them unknown to the officers. Some tripe de roche was collected, which they boiled for supper, with the moiety of the remainder of the deer's meat. The men commenced cutting willows for the construction of a raft to convey them across the river. As an excitement to exer* tion. Captain Franklin promised a reward of three hundred livres to the first person who should convey a line across the river, by which the raft could be managed in transporting the party. Several attempts were made by Belanger and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to convey the raft across the stream, but they failed for want of oars. A pole constructed by tying the tent poles together, was too short to reach the bottom at a short distance from the shore ; and a paddle which had been carried from the sea-coast by Dr. Richardson, did not possess sufficient power to move the raft in opposition to a strong breeze, which blew from the other side. All the men suffered extremely from the coldness of the water, in which they were necessarily inunersed up to the waist, in their endeavo irs to aid Belanger and Benoit ; and having witnessed repeated failures, they began to consider the scheme as hopeless. At this time Dr. Richardson, prompted by a desire of relieving his suffering companions, proposed to swim across the stream with a line, aad to haul the raft over. He launched into the stream with a line round his middle, but when he had got a short distance from the bank, his arms became benumbed, and he lost the power, of moving them ; still he persevered, and turning on his back P. V. 22. U u u V ■V- ^ ^r 1 * *i 1 ■ %\ Jll< : 1- ■In ; '■ fte line and he can.e on the ,urf»=e. and « J^^ ^^ .__ ^^. „l,„,e in «n rdmort hfe e« »««• » » ,.„„^,, and ta- ke.,, he -P>-"' °";r:l iliytogive-^e*^^^ tnnateiy was j«.t able to l^'k ™ ^ „„. He reco- dlreetion. .e.peoting the manner o^«-« ^^ ^^_^ ,e,ed strength gradually. ■"»**3„„„ ,„ „„„,erse. and ,„ enahled in the """I" °;, ° „ed to remove into the b, the evening «as snftcently reoov ^ ^^^ ^^ y, Jnt. The, then regretted to l^n ^ ^^^^^^^ „f whole left »ido "»• <••?"'", "„. 414 .ot perfectly recover expo«.re to too f «»«.°'"- ^ f„„„wi«g wmmer. It a,o sensation of that ..de »Bt>l the ^holding :ihe cannot be described "JV'I^.XliWed frame exhibited. skeleton which Dr. »"='»"'"'" ''°' He had walked a day ^ In the evening Augustus came m. n ^^^^^ „.d a half beyond the ?'-»/"" '^^M^Blck. Of the back, but hud neither seen Junms ,„,4 a>6 tracks , former he had seen - ^-;^ ^:,,e aistance. until 4e of Mr. Back's part, to a con imperceptible. J«- kardnessof the 8'°°"*'Xlmmuni.ion, blankets, kn.ves ntaswas well equipped witn ^^ ^^ ^^^.^j^^ „{ a kettle, and other ■'^»!»°"" ' "^^.y „„, rejoin the party, Augustus that when he found he-. ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ „, he would endeavour .0 »»'" *»;;„^, ^ fell in with the Es- Point Lake. »**"*: ""X Credit, on a hunting ,ulmaux. who frequent ^^^Z^^^P^M to belong to Lursion. f»>'»*»«''' trieft*em in the spring. Tins one of the hunters -^^^^^^.^^^, „, fl.eir being on the clrcnmstance P''°''"«'\*; °°!, „hioh all the assertions of hanks of the Coppe'--»^«-;^^' ^„,„«„g ,tth some of th. -.;:!::;rha*^rh:::"oonse,uence of reviving ti-e^^ H^it. considerably. .. , ; , ., . ,- > *;> "k, TU THB PULAR S£A. ftl5 In the eyening, after supping on some tripe de roohe, they retired to sleep. On the Ist of October, they had the sa> tisfaction of seeing Mr. Back return. He had advanced nearly twenty miles beyond ' p party accompanying Captain Franklin ; and fearing that the lake extended yet many miles farther, he thought it most prudent to return. One of the hunters this evening brought in some bones and antlers of « deer. The meat had been entirely picked off; but the mar- row, although it was now become putrid, was gladly eaten, although it was acrid, and the bones being burnt, were equally divided among the party, and eaten by them. They now occupied their time in making another raft to convey them across the lake, to effect which a quantity of willows were gathered, with which, and some canvas, Ger- main undertook to form a vessel for that purpose. Many of them were now in a state of thd greatest weakness. A great quantity of snow had fallen during the 2nd and 3d, sSa their sufferings led several to give up all hopes of being able to re- turn. Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson presented to the ey« the appearance of skeletons, as indeed did most of the party. The former was afflicted with so severe a complaint in his bowels from eating the tripe de roche, that he could no lon-« ger partake of what they dressed, and at this juncture, when out of consideration for his sufferings a partridge was re* served for him, it was stolen by some of the men. The person whose spirits were least depressed was the seaman Hepburn, who appeared to rely with unabated confidence on the diving protection, and never relinquished his efforts to procure sus- tenance, nor his endeavours to assist the weak and depressed. On the 4th of October, St. Germain having completed the canoe which was to convey them across the water, em> barked in it himself and reached the opposite shore in safety, It was then brought back and others conveyed over until the whole party had crossed in safety, although several of them were severely wet by its admitting a considerable quantity of water. As soon as they had recovered from the fatigne of U u u 2 •II 516 PRANKLIN'S JOURNBT ■. I crossing, Captain Franklin requested Mr. Buck to proceed forwards, taking with him Pierre St. Germain, Solomon Belonger, and Gabriel Beauparlant. lie was to search for the Indians and to proceed to Fort Enterprise ; at which place, if they met with no succour before, they had not a doubt but their necessities would be supplied, and where sufficient intelligence would be left by Mr. Wentzel, as had been agreed on their parting, to direct them to different de- pots of provisions. The spirits of the whole purty again revived, and the Ca- nadian voyagers iiow expressed their coniidence that they should soon arrive at Fort Enterprise, where they expected all their trials would have an end. Tltey had however to en- dure the want of even a little tripe de roche, and large quan- tities of snow fell during the night. On the morning of the 5th, they did not proceed until eight o'clock, as the frozen state of their clothes caused them to re- main round the fire thoy had kindled. After proceeding about two hours, they found some tripe de roche, on which they breakfasted. They afterwards continued their journey until the evening, when they partook of a slender meal of tripe de roche and scraps of roasted leather. On the following morning they made another meal of scraps of leather, and then went forwards. The road was now over a range of bleak hills, and the wind was severely cold. The weakness of some of the party was so great as almost to prevent their proceeding farther. Credit was no longer able to carry more than his blanket and gun, and with others, lingered a dbtance behind. About noon Samaudre came up and said thatCreditand Vaillantwere too weak to proceed any farther. Upon this the party halted and Dr. Richardson went back to them. As there was a quantity of willows on the spot, a fire was made. After returning nearly two miles, he found Valiant, who was extremely weak from fatigue and cold. On being informed that if he made an effort to reach the party in advance he would find a fire provided, he strove, to TO THB POLAR SBA. •If proceed Solomon larch for at -wlach ad not o ad where si, as bad 'erent de- idthe Ca- tlmt they If expected ever to en- large quan- d until eight them to re- jeding about which they ourney until meal of tripe the following leather, and r a range of rhe weakness prevent their to carry more 3, lingered a e up and said ed any farther. n went back to the spot, afire Lies, he found igue and cold, t to reach the 3d, he strove, to proceed, but repeatedly feel. He aaid that Credit was « short distance in the rear, and the Doctor proceeded in search of him ; but there being a very strong snow drift, af« ter proceeding about half a mile he was constrained to re- turn, as he lost all traces of their footsteps. On arriving again at the spot where he had found Vaillant, he had moved only a few yards, having been unable to stand, and waa now scarcely able to arliculate. The doctor now hastened to inform the captain and bis party of their situation, and Belanger, with others, immediately proceeded to \m help ; he was benumbed with cold and incapable of being roused. Those who were sent to help him on, declared themselves too weak to carrv him, and even begged to be permitted to leave their baggage and make the best of their way to Fort Enterprise. It was now proposed that the strongest of the party should proceed forwards ; and at length Mr. Hood and Dr. Rich- ardson agreed to remain behind with one of the men, when- ever they should arrive at a spot where a sufliuient quantity of tripe de roche could be found for a few days support ; and that Captain Franklin and the others should proceed to Fort Enterprise and send them from thence supplies and help as they needed. By this plan several articles might be left be- hind, so as to ease the advance party ; and accordingly a tent, a small barrel of powder, and other luggage, was given into the care of Dr. Richardson, and they then proceeded on their journey. Vaillant's blanket was left, under a hope, which indeed was very distant, that he might get further on his his journey ; and as Credit bad some leather and a blanket, theur hopes were that he also might be preserved alive. Having come to this determination, they proceeded on the following morning on their journey ; and arriving at a place where there grew a quantity of willows, and near which they observed a quantity of tripe de roche. Dr. Rich- ardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain here ; and the faithful seaman John Hepburn, voluntarily offered to remain ( M 'J m M 616 :• 5 f i- -^^ u i.«a their tent,col\ected*.upply ,. - Thev therefore pltchett ««> ^ ^ ^^^ ^n^. ^ been hi. """l"""'™* "' T, but the hop. of *«""« *'" ^*,V«.''«»feU mo,l " "^VprovUion. from Fo,. Eu-or- the «.on« to w-nd a «»?»'» "'^^ ,.„ „f the Canadian .oy- H..taS t"'''" »" •f''""°"f rfon,»td on their joarney, r»oUta In"-""" ""* •■" ^'l e they arrived at a .po. Tw not proceeded '" •:'"; ^ „„„.iderabie ,u.n. "tered ^^ P-"' »»* Th made «!«"• '^"^ "'"' *" . f irioe de roche, «hicU made .. ,4 fixed their "" f w Aey hadw recently parted v-.thl « _^ friend, whom they h. ^^^^„„„,„u„„, «"" "^^^^ ,i„ tents «> «"'?• " u.^.eedioKfo"""*'' ^ . , .„ peate, a. thU place. P'--*'J^ „„ ,,,ich the »no« W >» fonntry P""""*" '*' "^kinK became «. tohonoas. that Honsiderable depth, and ^^dk."S,,,^,d to encamp. "^„.„,eUingaho«t font n>.le^ they ^^ jiu„„it,. not Sge."-* Michel 8°' »J* :';„!. ; and"-."-- -■"•«* ^rStlt-to thL companion, --d. 's;:re ::.: - ^-j -^r: :- p«^«" »' -' rrof a P'a»' ""'» '°"° '■ 1 We., night from the .eve tl^r tent, they cut .t up and n>ad ^^^^ __^^ ^, ^:e J.carcelyn>ove ; ''^rir.„biect to a .iddine. » of the Canadian .oys;';;^ ^^ ,^ ,^„Uy prepared could not proceed. A. the am- Lh them, ter hav- ie», Cap- eiug abl. consisted of only live persons ; Captain Franklin, Saraandre, Benoit, Adam and Peltier. Augustus had gone Ibrwards alone, while the party were detained by the differ- ent persons who became so aff*ected as to be obliged to re- turn. These five persons now proceeded on their journey, and arriving at a spot where there were a quantity of willows. I f . f h : m 980 PPANKLIN'S JOUBNBY Im I' ! they encamped, and making a fire, attempted to gather some tripe de roche, but without success, from the severity of the weather ; they therefore made a meal of a few pieces of lea- ther and some tea: The next morning the weather being more mild, they gathered a quantity of tripe de roche, and felt much refreshed after their repast. They then com- menced their journey, and arrived at Marten Lake, which they found so frozen over as to enable them to cross it, which they did, and arrived at "Winter River, by which the spirits of the party were greatly raised, as they had now arrived at a spot known to them all. Having encamped for the night, which was very stormy, they rose early in the morning, and commenced their journey in the hope of reaching Fort En- terprise before night. In their journey they saw a large herd of rein- deer, but they were so feeble that they could not pursue them. In the afternoon they encamped in the vici- nity of a great number of pines, and made a comfortable fire. They made a meal on some shoes and made some tea ; but no tripe de roche could be found. They then set out for the fort, anticipatmg that their sufierings were now at an end ; but what their feelings were on arriving at that place, no language can describe. Instead of finding a depot of pro- visions, and some Indians or other persons to administer to their many wants and necessities, they found it completely desolate. The sight was so extremely distressing that the whole party burst into tears. Comforting themselves as they had done, with the pleasing assurance that at this place then: trials would end, and that they should quickly dispatch to their suffering friends in the rear, that assistance and sup- port which they so greatly needed, the view of the house in its desolate state was like an arrow to the heart, and the whole party almost sunk under the feelings it produced. Here they expected to find a letter from Mr. Wentzel giv- ing them information respecting the places where they should find provision ; but no letter, nor the least indication of any effort to serve them, could be seen. They found here how- TO THB POLAR SEA. 521 J gather «ome everity of the pieces of lea- weather being deroche, and ey then com- snLake, which , cross it, which ^hich the spirits now arrived at d for the night, e morning, and iching Fort En- saw alargeherd they could not iped in the vici- t comfortable fire, e some tea ; but then set out for Iwere now at an ing at that place, gadepotofpro- to administer to ad it completely tressing that the lemselves as they at this place their ckly dispatch to istance and sup- of the house in , heart, and the igs it produced. [r. Wentzel giv- zbere they should indication of any found here how- ever a note from Mr. Back, intimating that he liad been at this place two days before, and saying that be was gone to search after the Indians, and that he should proceed in the direction of Fort Providence, and that if be did not meet with any Indians he would expedite as»stauce from thence ; but at the same time he expressed his fears that neither him- self nor any of his party would have strength to accomplish the journey. As the hope of help was now so distant. Captain Franklin resolved to make an excursion himself to find some of the In- dians ; he resolved however to wait two or three days, that his party might recruit their strength, and also in the hope that he might hear firom Mr. Back that he had been successful in seeking for them. As to the place of their present residence, the room in which they took up their abode was exposed to all the severity of the weather, the temperatiu'e of which was now 15° below zero. There were indeed several deer skins, which were left when they took, up their residence here in the spring, and they found among the ashes a quantity of the bones of the animals which they then killed. With this fare, and with the tripe de roche which they might gather, they considered they had sufficient to support them for a time, and having no other choice they endeavoured to sub- mit. On the following evening, while preparing their hard fare for a repast, the Esquimaux Augustus made his appearance. They were greatly rejoiced to see him, as from the length of time he had been missing they were apprehensive some serious misfortune bad befel him. On enquiry it was found that on leaving the party he had pursued a different rout from the others ; but accustomed as the people of his nation are to roving about, he had sufficient conception of the di- rection in which Fort Enterprise was situated,' so as to reach it without those helps by which the English made their reck- onings. The weather at this time was much more severe than it had been at the same period in the last year i 9fid P. V. 22. X X X m: 1% I m mm 1 ; l» 1 / Wi ii 1 M 1 fi 522 franklin's journey I j they saw but few tracks of the rein-deer, which the preced- injf year had been very numerous. ■ .-.'■;-.l.ii On the 13th of October, the wind being high, the snow drifting very much, the party remained at their residence, and in the course of the day Solomon Belanger made his ap- pearance in a state of great exhaustion and distress. His hair was frozen, his whole dress was covered with ice^ tuid it was with difficulty he gave them to understand that he had fallen into one of the rapids and narrowly escaped with his life. He brought a letter from Mr. Back, in which he said that he had not been able to meet with any of the Indians, and requested Captain Franklin to signify his wishes as to the road he should take. Every endeavour was used to reanimate the almost expir- ing spirits of Belanger; they gave him some warm broth, took off his frozen garments, rubbed his chilled limbs, and ex- erted every effort to make him comfortable. It could not but be noticed how much a sense of the sufferings they had endured, and the still awful appearances as to what awaited them, appeared to influence their behaviour. Oaths, to which some of the party were greatly addicted, now no longer came out of their mouths ; a spirit of humble submission to their fate appeared to influence them ; and feelings of the most affectionate nature were now particularly manifest towards the suffering Belanger. That the custom which had pre- vailed, during the whole progress of the expedition, of pay- ing regard to the Lord's Day, and of prayer to the Divine Being on other occasions, had now its measure of influence upon the most thoughtless and reprobate, cannot be doubted, and the circumstance may be added to the many arguments which history and experience holds forth, to those who are in any measure of authority, that their duty is to profess their dependence and manifest their reliance upon the over-ruling ])rovidence of God, assured that the time of suffering and difficulty will lead others to seek for the salvation of Him in whom they live, and move, and have their being. the preced- ;h, the snow ir residence, made his ap- istress. His ivith ice^ and id that he had iped with his which he said fthe Indians, wishes as to I almost expir- inn broth, took imbs, and ex- It could not jrings they had ) what awaited 3aths, to which no longer came lission to their s of the most mifest towards rhich had pre- idition, of pay- to the Divine ire of influence lot be doubted, lany arguments those who are to profess their the over-ruling suffering and ion of Him »n ling. TO THE POLAR SEA. r>2« As from the letter of Mr. Back, it appeared there were no Indians in the neighbourhood of Fort Enterprise, Captain Franklin resolved to proceed towards Rein-^deer Lake, which was in the road to Fort Providence. He wrote to this ef- fect to Mr. Back, and also apprised him of the state and cir- cnmstances in which Mr. Hood and the other persons were left behind, that they might receive any attention which cir- cumstances might present. It was three days belu.o Belan- ger was sufficiently recovered to return, and then he was dis- missed with the letter. Captain Franklin now proceeded to arrange for his jour- ney to Fort Providence ; but it appeared impossible for him to take the whole party, as Adam, one of the hunters, was so afflicted with numerous swellings in different parts of his body, as to be incapable of walking. He therefore deter- mined to take Benoit and Augustus, and to send assistance by one of them the very first opportunity. Preparatory to removing he made up a package for the government in Eng- land, consisting of their journals and other papers, which was left to the care of tl.3 persons who were to remain at Fort Enterprise, and to be given to the Indians, should any call, directing them to send it to any of the North-west or Hud- son's Bay settlements, as they might have opportunity. Cap- tain FrartkHn then wrote a letter (to be sent when opportu- nity offered) to Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson. Having given some other directions to Peltier, Samandre and Adam, who were to remain at Fort Enterprise, they bade them fare- well. This was a season which excited all their feelings and brought afresh to their recollection the various sufferings which they had mutually endured. A disposition to be re- signed to the divine will, be the result whatever it might, appeared to influence the whole party ; and every one ap- peared to possess a mind prepared for all the sufferings and privations each might have to pass through. Having singed some pieces of skin to bo used for food, and mended their snow shoos, Captain Franklin and bis two X X X 2 h, fi ' ■ t H ( ' 1 tiftd li I M \\ m sm fhanklin'b jovbnky H companions c(uitted Fort Enterprne on the 20th. They found themselves so weak, and the road so difficuU, that af- tf r six hours labour they had only proceeded four miles, and then fixed their abode for the night on the edge of a lake, and partook of some tea and singed skin. Worn out and emaciated as they were, the cold was severe and distressing, and they lay close to each other to procure warmth. In the morning, after a slight repast, they again set out, but had proceeded only a short distance when Captain Franklin had the misfortune to fall and break his snow shoes, and the dif- ficulty in walking became so great, and exhausted him so much, that he resolved to relinquish the attempt, and to send Benoit and Augustus forwards while he returned to the fort. He therefore wrote a note to Mr. Back, describing his situa- tion and desiring him to send provisions by some means the very first opportimity ; and they were to continue their jour- ney until they reached Fort Providence in case they missnd of meeting any persons from whom assistance could be ob- tained. Having dispatched these men, he made his way back to the fort, where he found his companions in a state of great weak- ness and imbecility. Peltier was the only one who seemed capable of using any efforts towards their support ; Saman- dre appeared to give himself up to despair, and Adirni was too ill to afford any help. Upon the whole it seems proba- ble that but for Captain Franklin's return they would have sunk vaader their accumulated sufferings. He used every effort to cheer their spirits and to inspire them with the hope that their trials would soon be over, and that assistance would quickly arrive. Under feelings of their inadequacy to exert themselves, they had resolved to partake of only one meal a day ; but the captain now cooked their food and required them to take refreshment more often. The weather being at this time snowy and gloomy, neither Peltier nor Adam would leave their beds, and it was with difficulty that they could be prevailed on to take the food provided for them. th. They It, tlwt af- miles, and of a lake, iTD out and distressing, ith. In the tut, but had franklin had and the dif- tstcd him so t, and to send d to the fort, ring his situa- ne means the ue their jour- j they missod could be ob- TO TUB POLAR SUA. 53^ Their strength declined daily, and every effort to do the ne- cessary duties was painful. Even to change the position ia which they sat or lay required an exertion which they almost refused to make. It was to be expected that as the winter advanced, and the ground became bound by the frost, tkat they would be deprived of the tripe de roche, which WM so very necessary to mix with the pounded bones and scorched skins that they found at the fort ; yet under all these com- plicated sufferings, their solicitude for Mr. Hood, Dr. Rich- ardson and those left behind, whom they supposed to bev if possible, in a state of greater privation, excited their in* creasing sensibility and was indeed, with the ideas ofthehel|k to be sent, principally the subject of their conversation. B} the 29th they had burned up all the loose wood about their dwellings and proceeded to pull down some of the par* titions of the houses which had been erected when they were at this place in the spring. The distance from the place ia which they dwelt was but a few yards, yet the conteying them was a work of gpreat labour in their weak state ; and Pel^ tier, who alone was strong enough to do the work of loose- ning the boards, felt so oppressed that it was with difficulty that they procured wood sufficient to continue the fire. They saw this day a herd of rein-deer about a mile distant, but every one was now so weak that it was not in their power to go after them. This day they had the pleasing, yet in many respects mournful satisfaction of seeing Dr. Richardson and the sea> man Hepburn enter their apartment. As none of the other persons who were left behind made their appearance, they were filled with anxious fears respecting their fate. The emaciated appearance of the doctor and his companion' shocked their feelings, and they were still more agitated upon hearing that Perrault andFontano had not been seen by them», and that Mr. Hood and Michel were dead. On the other hand the hollow countenances of the captain and his compa- nions, and the sepulchral tone of their voices, excited ia the 1 i i ' ; '?. \i. P A^ franklin's journey ^1 doctor and Hepburn sensations of a like kind in respect of them; Hepbqru having shot a partridge, the doctor tore oft' the feathers, and having held it to the fire a few minutes, di< vided it into six portions. The captain and his three compa- nions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the first morsel of flesh any of them had tasted for thirty-one days, nnless indeed the small gristly particles which were found oc- casiohally adhering to the pounded bones may be termed fleshy Their spirits were revived by this small supply, and the doctor «ndeavoured to raise them still higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and even fired at, several near the house. The dot> tor having brought his prayer book and testament, some prayers and psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read, and they retired to bed. Next morning the doctor and Hepburn went out early in search of deer; but though they saw several herds, and fired some shots, they were not so fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their gfuns steadily. The cold compelled the former to ri- turn soon, but Hepburn persisted until late in the evening. Peltier and Samandre continued very weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut fire-wood. Hepburn had in consequence that laborious task to perform after he came back. •'■ ■ ''• : Dr. Richardson stated, that upon Captain Franklin, Pel- tier, Samandre, and the others leaving, they had kept up the fire as long as there was any wood to burn ; and that tiio weather was afterwards so stormy that they could not move during the next day, and therefore lay in their beds, and having a few religious books which were given to them by a lady in London, one of the party read them aloud. The doc- tor stated that the reading of these books, together with their attention to reading daily prayers, so sustained their spirits, and influenced them to trust in his divine protection, ti ■ ' »r 1 . Ii. 'If \\ M !l yi A'Ml \? 1 f y VRANKLIN'll iOURNBY fil hki entered tlra back part of the )iead, antl passeil out at tke forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had been ap- )>lied so cloae as to set fire to the night-cap behind. The guB, which was of the longest kind supplied to the Indians, oould not have been placed in a position to inflict such a wound, except by a second person. Upon inquiring of Mi- chel how it happened, he replied, that Mr. Hood had sent him into the tent for the short gun, and that during his ab- senee the long gun had gone ofl^, he did not know whether by accident or not. Hepburn afterwards said that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and Michel were speak- ing to each other in an elevated angry tone ; that Mr. Hood being seated at the fire-side, was hid from him by interven- ing willows, but that on hearing the report, he looked up and saw Michel rising up from before the tent-door, or just be- hind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged for the pur- pose of cleaning it, he did not go to the fire at first ; and when Michel called to him that Mr. Hood was dead, a consi- derable time had elapsed. The loss of a young officer of such distinguished and varied talents and application, can- not but be felt and duly appreciated by the persons under whose command he had served ; but the calmness with which he contemplated the probable termination of a life of uncom- mon promise, and the patience and fortitude with which he sustained great bodily sufferings, can only be known to the companions of his distresses. Owing to the effect that the tripe de roche invariably had, when he ventured to taste it, hs undoubtedly suffered mora than any of the survivors of the party. Bickersteth's Scripture Help was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen from his hand, and it is probable that he was reading it at the instant of his death. They passed the night in the tent together without rest, every one being on his guard. Next day, having determined on going to the Fort, they began to patch and prepare their clothes for the journey. They singed the hair off a part of tA tub polar sra. A2U i6(\ out at I been ap- tiind. The he Indians, iflict sucba liring of Mi- od bad sent iring bis ab- now wbetber that previous were speak- at Mr. Hood by interven- lookedupand r, or just be- Toing into the edforthepur- at first; and dead, aconsi- kung officer of plication, can- persons under less with which ftUfeofuncom- y/'iOa. which he known to the effect that the mtured to taste jf the survivors was lying ope|» band, and it is mt of his death, thout rest, every determined on id prepare their M off a part of tlie buflulo rube tlint hclouKcd to Mr. Hood* iind boiled and ate it. They uflerworda set out on tlieir journey to Fort En- terprise. ' ./ .,,..>■.,.., Hepburn and Michel had each a gun, and the doctor car- ried a small pistol wliich Hepburn had loaded for him. In the course of the march Michel alarmed them much by his gestures and conduct ; he was constantly muttering to him- self, expressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried to persuade them to go to the southward to the woods, where he said ho could maintain himself all the winter by killing deer. In cou89quence of tliis behaviour, and the expres- sion of his coimtenance, Dr. Richardson requested htm to leave them, and to go to the southward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-nature ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and was overheard muttering threats against Hepburn^ whom he openly accused of having told stories against him. He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in ad- dressing Dr. Richardson, as evinced that he considered both to bo completely in his power, and ho gave vent to several expressions of hatred towards the white people, or as he termed them in the idiom of the voyagpers, the French, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. Taking every circumstance of his conduct into consideration. Dr. Richardson and Hepburn concluded that he would attempt to destroy them on the first opportu- nity that offered, and Uiat ho had hitherto abstained from do- ing so from his ignorance of his way to the Fort. In their journey, Michel coming to a rock on which there was some tripe de roche, halted, and said he would gather it whilst they went on, and that he would soon overtake them. Hep- burn and the doctor were now left together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, and they were of opinion that there was no safety for them except in Micliel's death. Convinced of the necessity of such a dreadful act. Dr. Richardson resolved to take the whole responsibility upon himself; and immedi- P. V. 23. . Y Y Y 11^ 'N h(M \ \ •11' y If' ■■» ! HI 030 l'RANKLIN*a JOURNBY ately upon Mioherk coming up. he put an end to his life by shooting him through the head with a pistol. The narrative hero cannot but excite feelings of the most distressing kind in the mind of the reader ^t the awful cir- cumstances which have been stated. It appears, however, that the doctor was a man of too benovolent and humane a character to have proceeded to those extremities, but from a sense of its absolute necessity. After this awful event they proceeded on their journey, and ultimately arrived at the fort as before noticed. Hepburn, who was the strongest of the party, went out on the 31st in quest of deer, and Dr. Richardson took his gun and set out in search of some provision. A herd of deer passed within view of the doctor, but he was so weak as to be unable to kill one of the herd. On the 1st of November, Hepburn again set out in pursuit of some deer, but his weak- ness was so great as to render him unsuccessful. Dr. Rich- ardson gathered some tripe de roche, but Semandre and Peltier were become so weak, and their throats so sore, that they could partake of only a small portion. The latter ma- nifested such lassitude that he could no longer sit up, but sunk upon his bed. Supposing him to have laid down be- cause of its being a more easy posture, no particular appre- hensions were entertained for him until a rattling was heard in his throat ; this circumstance excited their attention, and on Dr. Richardson's examining him, he found him speech- less, and he expired before the morning. This circimistance appears to have so affected Semandre, that he died in a few hours after. The severe shock occasioned by the sudden dis- solution of their two companions rendered them very melan- choly. Adi&m became low and despondent, a change to be lamented the more, as he had been gaining strength and spirits for the two preceding days. The labour of collecting wood now devolved upon Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, and they were occupied the whole of the next day in- tearing down the logs of which the store- house was built, the. mud plastered ' '1^ I < TO THB POLAR «8A. flei M Vife by f tbe most awful cir- however, I humane a but from a event they i at the fort went out on took his g«n ^erd of deer weak as to be ►f November, buthisweak- 1. Dr.Biob- lemandre and ts 80 sore, that he latter ma- rer sit up, but laid down be- irticular appre- ling was heard attention, and jd him speech- lis circvmistance le died in a few y the sudden dis- lem very melan- a change to be ,g strength and ,our of collecting nd Hepburn, and yiir tearing down th&mud plastered between them being so bard AroMO that the labour of aepa- ration exceeded their strength, and they were completely exhausted by bringing in wood sufficient for less than twelves hours' consumption. ' They continued to support themselves by occasionally ga- thering some tripe de roche, which they had hardly strength to effect, their weakness being so great that to move the dis- tance of a few yards was a labour almost insupportable, until the 7th of November. They were become such skeletons that it was with pain of body they lay down on their blankets, and to change their posture was a labour which required a considerable effort to accomplish, and they were obliged to assist each other to rise from their seats. Thus reduced, they had the pleasure on the 7tb of November to hear the sound of a musket, and the voices of persons shouting. They soon after had the great pleasure of seeing three Indians named Boudelkell, Crooked-foot and the Rat, approaching them, having been sent by Akaitcho on the 6th with a supply of dried deer's meat, a few tongues and some other articles, of which they imprudently eat so much as to render them very unwell for a time. It appeared that Mr. Back had reached their encampment, and on stating to Akaitcho the distressed state of his companions, the chief immediately dispatched the three men to the fort. Mr. Back's journey had been attended with a variety of circumstances almost as afflictive as those of Captain Frank- lin. In crossing the lakes which were frozen, Belanger twice fell through the ice, and was in one instance saved by Mr. Back and his people pulling him out by fastening the belts which they wore together. Mr. Back in describmg his suf- ferings says, " my shoulders were as if they would fall from my body, my legs seemed unable to support me, and had it not been for the remembrance of my friends behind, who re- lied on me for relief, as well as the necessity of regarding those persons of whom I had charge, I should have preferred remaining where I was to the pain of attempting to remove." Y Y Y 2 I 1 . M .'it: I I' t/ i1 1 - fias PRAFfKLIN'8 JOrRNHY Beauporlont, ono of Mr. Baok'i compnnionii, wi'ighecl down with thtiguo and overcome by the sevoriiy of tho wea* ther, died on the Kith of October; the other men, with Mr. Back, after great fatigue, reached the encampment of Akait- cho as before Htated. fioudelkell was sent back to Akaitcho, and with n Mler to Mr. Back desiring u further supply of provisions to be sent with all speed ; the other two Indians remained with the party at Fort Enterprise, and proceeded to clear the apart- ment of the dirt and fragments of bones and other things which were spread over It. Tbey rendered their habitation by this means, and by the large fires whiuh they now made, so much more oomfurtable, that the spirits and r> solved to quit Fort Enterprise the following day ; and after uniting in prayer and thanksgiving to God, they set out on the IGth of November. Their feelings on quitting the Fort whore they had formerly enjoyed much comfort, if not hap- piness, and, latterly, experienced a degree of misery scarcely to bo paralleled, may be more easily conceived than do> scribed. The Indians treated tbem with the utmost tender- ness, gave them their snow-shoes, and walked without thon»- selvos, keeping by their sides, that they might lift them up when they fell. They descended Winter River, and about noon, crossed the head of Round- Rock Loke, distant about three miles from the house, where they were obliged to bait, as Dr. Richardson was unable to proceed. The swellings in his limbs rendered him by much the weakest of the party. The Indians then prepared their encampment, cooked for them, and fed them as if they had been children ; evincing a humanity that would have done honour to the most civilized people. The night was mild, and they slept soundly. On the 26th they arrived at Akaitcho's encampment. They 'n-cre received in silence, no one opening their lips for a short time, which is their mode of indicating their sympathy and compassion. They were then presented with some food ; af- ter which the conversation commenced. Akaitcho shewed the most friendly h'Spitality, and great personal attention, even cooking for them with his own hands, an ofiioc wliii^lt he never performs for himself. Anuoethai-yazzeb and Hum- py, the Chiefs two brothers, and several of the hunters, with their families, were encamped here, together with a number ofuld men and women. In the couriic of the day they 1 ' !^' ! '.,- 1 V * » 11 . Ml A 534 franklin's journey • ll vrere visited by every person of the band, not merely from ouriosity, but from a desire to evince their tender sympathy. On the first of December, they proceeded in company with the Indians towards Fort Providence ; and on the 6th Belanger and another person from Mr. Weeks met them with two trains of dogs, some spirits and tobacco for the In- dians, a change of dress for the captain, and a little tea and sugar. They also brought letters from England, and from Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel. Their letters from England informed them that they had been promoted. All the Indians flocked around to learn the news, and to receive the articles brought for them. Having got some spi- rits and tobacco, they withdrew to the tent of the Chief, and passed the greater part of the night in singing. They had now the indescribable gratification of changing their linen, which had been worn ever since their departure from the sea-coast. On the 8th of December, after a long conference with Akaitcho, they took leave of him and his kind companions, and set out with two sledges heavily laden with provision and bedding, drawn by the dogs, arid conducted by Belan- ger and the Canadian sent by Mr. Weeks. Hepburn and Augustus jointly dragged a smaller sledge, laden principally with their own bedding. Adam and Benoit were left to fol- low with the Indians. They encamped on the Grassy- Lake Portage, having walked about nine miles, principally on the Yellow- Knife River. It was open at the rapids, and in these places they had to ascend its banks, and walk through the woods for some distance, which was very fatiguing, espe- cially to Dr. Bichardson, whose feet were severely galled in consequence of some defect in his snow-shoes. On the 11th, they arrived at Fort Providence, where Mr. Weeks gave them every attention. Theirjoy and gratitude to God for having again brought them to a place where all their necessities could be relieved was great, and they united in thanksgiving and praises for their mercies. The stotes and \ %J and on the 6th ^« THE POLAR SEA. .^ ™ «.e 14U, »itt „„ hi. pile n. ^""'- «' ""'«> «o«B«g to their «».l „'„2» " ^ ! '°"°''«* '^^ PW« «- wl»oh he «,id he fell disappofated «»? ' ^'^^- " >«caa», he .aid, hi. Z7eCi^t u' """' ^ '«''«'. -« Weve, i„tond to^t^'ZlZ^'- """' ■" *" campa„i„„,. .. „;. „,„ ^SZC't '"^^ "" "^ poor; you are poor thaJr^A. "' ™'' "•««« P"ty are poor BllL^t '^T <» '« P»»r. I and n,y ■•». we cannot have^hl 1 7°" "' «'""'" l"™ »»« «omo yoa with provisions, for i C„„„ "?'?*"" ''"™» "PP"<«i wi.iten.ento,„fferf;oIUf„E t"^ "°" "'''' P«""t 'o their aid. I ,r„s,, 1^1,,^^.°" ''"'«*■«"«'»«> «W -'ve what 1. due ne^anTur. afd aTal'l ' " ^''"■'^- '^• -n a tone of g„„d.,„,„„„, Tu°te'!j""f '°'^'"'-'- people have been indebted , „, ' '''^"""""that the white — dthe ™Pplie*tMtt^X'"f°'-' «'- aulinn^i, if not before H. ,t , '™* ^ him by the P-ent for hin^erand ^tt"''^ '"*'* ••■»«' «f« things to tho.'o„:;;h:t;tef^J»>;| *"" ""« »«'Vice. the other., who ,„ , . ' """^ «> «■«» equally deserving, d d I«' I"""'- """S"" ""-"^Ive, JWibution. """""' " i^wg left out in the oonduo. of hi, /ndian. I^d le ! '"°'' ° °''^«'"* <"«» ; Wd ve^ .oon he n'.irArhTfri'^! "' ^'"^- 'ke trading Company monev „„„ ""^ ">» '■""■•<" M owed «ptain and hi. parly, and ^TeJ '"""''^ '» "« -••'--"-value d:er4xrd:r:: If < t f li ^ 'VV r,* 996 vramkmn's jovrnry huaaeif. Havitig thus adjasted their engagements, the cap- tain presented the band with a barrel of spirits mixed with water, and they retired. Having concluded all his engagements to their mutual sa- tisfaction ; Dr. Richardson, Captain Franklin and others of the party left Fort Providence on the 16th, and proceeded to Moose-deer Island. The party consisted of Belangcr, who bad charge of a sledge laden with the bedding, and drawn by two dogs, and the two cariole men, Benoit, and Augustus. Previous to their departure, they had another conference with Akaitcho, who, as well as the rest of his party, bade them farewell, with a warmth of manner rare among the Indians. The badness of Belanger's dogs, and the roughness of the ice, impeded their progress very much, and obliged them to encamp very early. They had a good fire made of the drift wood, which lines the shores of tliis lake in great quantities. The next day was very cold. They began the journey at nine in the morning, and encamped at the Big Cape, having made another short march, in consequence of the roughness of the ice. On the 17th, they encamped oh the most southerly of the Rein-deer Islands. The night was very stormy, but the wind abating in the morning, they proceeded, and by sunset reached the fishing-huta of the Company at Stony Point. Here they found Mr. Andrews, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, who regaled them with a supper of excellent white fish, for which that ptat of Slave Lake is particularly cele- ' brated. They set off in the morning before day break, with seve- ral companions, and arrived at Moose-deer Island about one in the afternoon, where they had the great satisfaction of again meeting Mr.' Back. Their mutual feelings on meeting again af- ter having passed through such a series of sufTeringa was of the most affecting kind. Mr. M'Vicar, the chief resident at Moose< deer Island received them with the greatest kindness, and by his attention to their diet and their comforts, their health and strength were fully restored. Here they remained until the ■■t TO TIIR POLAR SEA. 537 its, the oap- mixed witU ,ir mutual sa- and others of nd proceeded 5elangcr,who and drawn by nd Augustus, er conference jty, bade tbein p tbe Indians, 'ugbnessoftbe ,b\iged them to ade of the drift rreat quantities, the journey at ig Cape, having of the roughness southerly of the stormy, hut the d, and by sunset at Stony Point, he Hudson's Bay per of excellent [particularly cele-' %reak,wthseve- llsland about one Asfaction of again Ueting agwn af- iferingswasofthe LidentatMoose. kindness, and by . their health and emained until the middle of May, during which time the remainder of the stores ifitended for Akaitcho and his people arrived ; and the cap- tain had suflicient to add an additional present of ammunition to every one who had assisted them. On the 26th they set out for Fort Chipewyan, where they arrived on 2nd of June, which they quitted on the 5th, and proceeded to Norway House, whkli they reached on the 4th of July. At this place tliey discharged the Canadian voyagers, sending them home by canoes which were going to Montreal. On the 14(h, they arrived at York Factory, thus concluding n journey, perhaps unparallelled in history, of upwards of five thousand five hun- dred miles by land and water. That this journey did not attain all its objrctfs must be ad- mitted, yet it made an important addition to the northern boundaries of America ; and not only established the fact of an ocean on that side, but ascertained its latitude. Captain Franklin's expedition also threw much light on arctic disco- very, which must be of great service in all now attempts issivc ice llio lightniiiKM pli>y," It was determined that Captain Franklin should follow in the spring, and renew his. .iiuuous task cf travcvsing those bleak imd inhospitable regions to the northern shores of America. Captain Franklin is accoaipanicd by Dr. Richardson, his former travelling compunion, Mr. Drummond, a young bo- tanist, and others. They sailed from Liverpool in February 1825, for New York; and thence proceeded, by the Lake Erie Canal, to Lac Huron, where the pa.iy, about thirty in number, were on the 22nd of April, 1825. From Montreal to Lac Huron, no incident worth record- P. V. 25. Z z z ). ( n: k i\ < i i'.il 'it 536 FRANKLINS JOURNEY m ing occurred ; but the journey was performed with ease and expedition ; every man enjoyed excellent health and daily felt his spirits becoming more buoyant from the continued calmness and fineness of the weather. On the 24th of April, the party were to embark in two large canoes for Fort Wil- liam, traversing in their course the upper end of Lao Huron, Sault St. Marie and Lake Superior. From thence they pro- ceed in four canoes by Lac la Pluie, Lake Winipeg, Cum- berland House, and Methy-portage, to Athabasca, where they expect to overtake three boats with their crews of Argylshire-men who were sent out from England in the sum- mer of 1824, and have had ample lime to forward the in- struments and luggage entrusted to their care. In their voyage through the principal lakes, the travellers will be conveyed in American steam boats, and when that ac- commodation ceases, they will procure, as formerly, the ser- vices of stout Canadian boatmen. One of the greatest evils attendant on this expedition, is, that it requires upwards of twelve months to convey them to what may be called the starting point of discovery. And however heavily the time may hang on their hands, they must patiently wait the tardy lapse of an Arctic winter, and even after the sun begins to peep above the horizon, there are not above six or eight weeks, during which they -can travel with any thing like safety. Fort Reliance, situated on the shore of the Great I^-ar Lake, and the most northern piece of liiasonry in the world, was expressly built for the safety anrl comfort of the travel- lers, and will terminate their wanderings for the first season. This spot they expect to reach by the end of September, and in the spring Captain Franklin and his old companion, Mr. Back, who goes out on promotion, with one half of the party, will procecd^own Mackenzie's River, and from thence ex- ;!ore file coast to the westward, as far as Icy Cape and Ik'hriiig's Slraits. Here Captain Beechy, who sailed in the Blossom on the 21bt of May 1825, is to endeavour to join ' -H TO TKB POLAR SEA. 5^) Captain FrankKn, and after rendering bim every aasistanci;, is to pursue his exploratory investigations in such parts about Behring's Straits as are imperfectly known. Every thing that can contribute to the success of these several expedi- tions and add to the comfort, or rather lessen the privations of the enterprising navigators who have undertaken them, has been done by government ; tliey are accompanied also by the prayers and wishes of every Briton, wliiie neighbouring nations look on their efforts with admiration and anxiety. From their known talents and ardent zeal every thing is to be hoped ; and although " 'Tis not in mortals to command bucccss. Yet they'll do more— they'll deserve it." Captain Franklin was married to Miss Eleanor Porden, a lady of poetical talents of the highest order, the daughter of William Porden, Esq. the architect who erected the king's stables at Brighton, Eaton Hall, the seat of Lord Grosvenor, and other buildings which placed his name high in his pro- fession. At the age of twenty, Miss Porden, who from child- hood discovered a genius for poetry, published a poem in six cantos, ;entitled the " The Veils, or the Triumph of Con- stancy." The union of poetical grace and scie.itific intelligence in this poem excited much admiration, and in three years af- terwards it was followed by " The Arctic Expedition," an in- teresting poetic tribute to the gallant adventurers Captains Ross andBuchan, and Lieutenants Parry and Franklin, then engaged in one of the most perilous enterprises by which the present age has been distinguished. The opening of the poem had a pretty allusion to the labours of the voyagers — " Sail, sail adventurous barks! go fearless forth. Storm, on his glacier scat, the misty North, Give to mankind the inhospitable zone, And Briton's trident plant in seas unknown. Go ! sure wherever science fills the mind. Or grief for man long sever'd from his kind. t, t 1 <• I ; t : ■*.■ # y ^li it?' «)• h. t( !: di iiiM MO franklin's jouunry. m 'I 1 1 if Tho nnxious nations watch the changing gales, And prayers and blessings swell your flagging sails." The publication of this poem is said to have led to her ac- quaintance witli Captain Franklin. Miss Porden afterwards published a very spirited Ode on the Coronation of his Ma- jesty Georjjo tho Fourth ; but her grand work was " Canir de Lion, or tlic third Crusade," n poem in sixteen cantos, and ono of the greatest cITorts of i> female pen in the annals of English literature. In the month of August, 1823, Miss Porden gave her hand to Captain F;anklin, to whom she had been some time en- gaged, and who had then recently returned from the laud expedition employed to tiiisist in exploring the Polar Re- gions. Happy, but brief was tlieir union. In the circum- stances of Mr^. Franklin's death there was something un- usually (listvcasiug. Constitutionally delicate, it has been generally, though erroneously, understood, that the fatal event was occasioned by grief at her husband's departure, acting upon a previously debilitated frame. This, however, was not the case. Mrs. Franklin, entered with energy into the enterprising spirit of her husband ; she earnestly wished him to rejjeat the attempt, hoping that he might accomplish the object so much desired. With this anticipation slie looked forward to welcome his return ; but, a pulmonary complaint, from which she had sullered nearly two years, reached its crisis about the time that Captain Franklin received liis orders to proceed. She expired tit her house, Devonsliiro Street, on the 22nd of February, aged 30, exactly one week after hav- in<3: bidden her husband farewell, leaving a daughter eight m'.iths old. Captnin Franklin was promoted to the rank of commander in 1821, and to that of Post Captain in 1822. We trust higher honours in his profession and the reward of his grate- ful country still await him. ',1 ;1 J ■>'' Talcs, ging siuls." l\ to her ac- n afterwards n of his Ma- waa " Cwur Ltecn cantos, in the annals gave her hand ouie time en- from the \aud the Polar Re- in the circum- something un- 3, it has been that the fatal nd's departure, This, however, the enterprising d him to repeat ih the object so looked forward complaint, from ^ached its crisis [ved his orders to nshlro Street, on week after hav- |a daughter eight nk of commander [822. We trust vard of his grate- ( 541 ) BELZONIS TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. &c. &c. The Narrative of the Travels and Researches of Mr. D<<1- zoni have ol)taincd a justly deserved attention among the readers of the present day. In his introductory preface to his own narrative lie says, " I made my discoveries alone. I iiave been anxious to write my book myself, though in so doing the reader will consider mo, and with great proi)rie(y, guilty of temerity; but the public will perhaps gain in the lidelity of my narrative what it loses in elegance. I am not an Englishman, but I prefer that my readers should receive from myself, as well as I am able to describe them, an ac- count of my proceedings in Egypt, in Nubia, on the coast of the Red Sea, and in the Oasis; rather than run the risk of having my meaning misrepresented by another. If I am intelligible, it is all that I can expect. I shall state nothing but the plain matters of fact, as they occurred to me in these countries, in 1 815-1 G-17-18 and 19. A description of the means I took in making my rese.irches, the dillicultios I had to encounter, and how I overcame them, will give a tolerably correct idea of the manners and customs of the people I had to deal with." Much has been written on Egypt and Nubia by the travellers of the last century, by Denon, and the French scavans, whose general account of these coun- Iries has scarcely lel't aoy thing unnoticed ; and by Mr. t% % 'i ^l^n ■m *^^:.■:;-S* M2 BBLZONl'S TRAVELS i i his ancestors, when the sud- ity altered the to travel ever y with remittaii' ed to live on liis had acquired in ntion to hydrau- }, and which was pt. In 1803 ho d, and alter rc- iition of goi»P t" IN EGYPT ANP NUBIA. 643 the south of Europo. Taking Mrs. Belzoni with him, he visited Portugal, Spain, and Malta, from which latter place they embarked for Egypt, where thoy remained from 1815 to 1819. Here he was the discoverer of many remains of antiquity of that primitive nation. He opened one of tho two famous Pyramids of Ghizefa, as well as several of tho tombs of the kings at Thebes. Among the latter, that which has been pronounced by one of the most distinguished scholars of the age to be the tomb of Psammuthis, is at this moment the principal, the most perfect and splendid monu- ment in that country. The celebrated bust of young Mem- non, now in the British Museum, was discovered by him, and after an absence of twenty years, he returned to his native land, and from thence proceeded to England. On the 19th of May, 1815, Mr. Belzoui, his wife and an Irish lad, named James Curtain, set sail from Malta, and arrived at Alexandria on the 9th of June. The principal cause of his going to Egypt was the project of constructing hydraulic machines, to irrigate the fields, by a system much easier and more economical than what is in use in that country. On entering the harbour of Alexandria, the pilot informed them that the plague was in the town. To an European who had never been in that country, this was alarming intelligence, and wishing to have some information concerning the state of the disease, Mr. Belzoni did not land till the next day, when two European gentlemen came alongside in a bout, and said that the plague was rapidly diminishing. They then landed, but with much caution, and proceeded to the French Occale, where' they were to per- form quarantine. Fortunately, St. John's day, which is the 24th of June, when the plague is supposed to cease, Mas near. Some superstitious persons attribute this to the power of the saint himself; but it is well known, that extreme heat checks the plague in tho same manner as the cold sea- son; and, that when the heat of summer is not so great as usual, the plague lasts longer; while, on the other hand. 1 tf 1 1 1' \ 1 .»] I I I ■• "4 'r Mi h f" H *^i,'* :Si . I' if i^ 1 044 nm.ZONlV TRAVKLS li 1 ■■* when tlie cold mnisoii (v>ntinuo« longer, Ukj |4iin;\jo oomoa later. Tho Occal*' is an enoloMiiro of Hovoral hotisofi, so disposed an to foriT i square. Thorc is no t'ntnuicci lo tli(> arou of tho gqimn^ )>ut iiy tlic grout gato, loading to a common stair- <-u9o, above which a gallery leads to every house. In plaguu time, the pooplo of theso habitations must communicate with each other without touching; no provision can enter without being passed through wator, nor must broad bo toiichcrl whilst warm. Tho disease is so (msily cntight, that a pier») of thread blown by tho wind is quito suOicient to inrncl the whole country. Had it becui known that they were ill, no one would have approached them, except the Arabs, who go in case of sickness indiscriminately to every one; and are tlius likely to spread the plague, by giving it to those who have it not. Many die tho victims of neglect, merely b(H;ause every disf^ase is taken for the plngue; others are victims of a different kind, of tho atrocious, interested views of their relativ NTUIA. 545 no (\iHi>ose(l li(> urcu of nmon Htair- In pbKUO iinicntti with utor witluM, bo toucAu'l that a pie««' to inlocl thr f were \\\, no Lnibs, who go one ; nnd aro to those who erely bocausc are victims of view« of their take Mvhat ail- > investigation plaguo" is the md aft several ay without dis- t St. John, the ing Cairo, they in Bngiish gen- ailed on the 1st re brought back ..embarked, and consequence of ral Abercromby, mand, had fallen Several human they entered the mouth of the Nile, and huided ul Rosettu; and in four duyn more arrived at Uooluk, within a mile ol Cairo. The hiistlinn scene here was most striking;. Tlu; nmjttstic uppeurani-e uf Turkish Holdiorit in variouH costumes, without regularity or (liHc,i|)lin,>, Arabs of many tribes, boats, eanjeas, camels, horses and asses, all in motion, presented a striking picture. Mr. .1iel/.oni landed, an > :> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1^ 21 12.5 m^ 1.1 l.-^l 2.2 2.0 m Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 1.25 ||U |,.6 < 6" ► # (\ <^ 546 BBLZONl'S TRAVELS sun ; and accordingly wero on the top of it long before the dawn of day. The scene was majestic and grand far beyond description; a mist over the plains- of Egypt formed a veil, which ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose and unveiled to the view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vasi; capital; while the solemn, endless spectacle of the desert on the west inspired reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descend- ing towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its numerous minarets, at the foot of the Mokatam mountain on the east, the beautiful plain which extends from the pyra- mids to that city ; the Nile, which flows magnificently through the centre of the sa'cred valley, and the thick groves ox palm trees, altogether formed a scene, of which very imperfect ideas can be given by the most elaborate description. Hav- ing examined several of these mausoleums, they returned to Cairo with the satisfaction of having seen a wonder, which tliey had long desired, but never supposed they should have the happiness to behold. Soon after this Mr. Baghos introduced Mr. Belzoni to the Bashaw, that he might come to some arrangement re> spectuig the hydraulic machine, which he proposed to con- struct for watering the gardens of the seraglio, and which was in fact the main object of his visit to Egypt. As they were proceeding towards the palace, throiigh one of the principal streets of Cairo, a brutal Turk struck Mr. Belzoni so fiercely on the leg with his stirrup, that it tore away a large piece of flesh. The blow was so severe, and the dis- charge of blood so copious, that he was obliged to be con- veyed home, wliere he remained under cure thirty days before he could support liimself on the wounded leg. When able to leave the house, he was presented to the Bashaw, who received liiia very civilly, but on being told of the misfortune wliicih had happened to him, contented himself IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 54f urith coolly observing, " that such accidents could not be avoided where there were troops." An arrangement was immediately concluded for erecting a machine wliich was to raise as much water with one ox, as the ordinary ones do with four. Mr. Belzoni soon found however, that he had many prejudices to encounter, and many obstacles to overcome, on the part of those who were employed in the construction of the work, as well as of those who owned the cattle engaged in dr?.wing water for the Bashaw's gardens. The fate of a machine which liad been sent from England, taught him to augur no good for that which he had undertaken to construct. Though of the most costly description, and every way equal to perform what it was calculated to do, it had failed to answer the unreasonable expectations of the Turks, because " the quantity of water raised by it was not sufficient to inundate the whole country in an hour, wliich was their measure of the power of an English water-wheel." While Mr. Beizoni resided at Cairo a revolution broke out among the soldiers, and some of the troops pursued the Bashaw to the citadel, whither he had retired for safety. All tbe soldiers ran after him, but as to the rest of the people, no one came out of their houses. All the Franks in their quarter were alarmed, and prepared for defence, in case the gates should be attacked. Mr. Belzoni proceeded to the house of Mr. Baghos, in the same quarter, as he had business with him. He had not gone far, when he met a body of armed soldiers running towards the centre of the town. Advancing further, he heard several muskets discharged in a street near, and many others at some distance: indeed there was a continual firing kept up. On approaching the Esbakie, he saw several soldiers running towards the serag- lio, and others hastening towards him. When they came up one seized the bridle of his donkey, while another took him by the collar, and the rest were busied iu ri^ng his pockets. He had fortunately but a few dollars in his possession. 4 A2 il-l 'l»if ) ■ 548 BBLZONl'ili TRAVELS For several days they kept close in the house : during this time, the soldiers plundered the shops in Cairo, and the Bashaw sent the Syrian horse against them, now known under the appellation of Tartoor. These were the only troiJps faithful to him ; but being mounted, they could not follow the Albanians, who were posted in ploughed fields between Cairo and Boolak. One day the cavalry advanced and the Albanians retired towards Boolak. The house in which Mr. Belzoni resided wns so situated, that from the upper part of it he could see the firing of the troops on one side, and on the other the confusion of the people, who had taken to the boats, which were soon crowded with them, and in the hurry many of them went adrift. There was a universal cry among the people, and the troops advanced to the very entrance of the town ; but, fortunately, they were prevented from coming in by the cavalry, who, by making a circuit, had taken post on the road. The confusion con- tinued in this manner for several days: at last, after having plundered and ravaged Cairo at their pleasure, the troops retired to their oamps, and in a few days more matters were arranged again. The discontented troops were all sent to encampments in various stations, at a distance from Cairo, and part towards Mecca; but the European exercise, to in- troduce which was said to have been the cause of the revolt of the troops, was wholly abandoned, and consigned to ob- livion. Turks are averse to controul of any sort, and parti- cularly to what is not the result of Mahommedan customs. One of the buffoons of the Bashaw took it into his head one day, - a frolic, io shave his beard; which is no trifle among tl rks, for some of them would sooner have their head cut off than beard ; he borrowed some Frank's clothes of th'j Bashaw's apothecary, who was from Europe, and, after dressing himself in European costume, presented him- self as an European, who could not speak a single word either of Turkish or Arabic, which is often the case. Being in the dark, the Bashaw took him for what he represented luring this », and tbe )W known the only r could not rhed fields J advanced e house in xt from the ops on one le, vho had with them, 'here was a advanced to f, they were , by making nfusion con- after having B, the troops (natters were re all sent to rom Cairo, ercise, to in- of the revolt signed to ob- rt, and parti- m customs. ' into his head ch is no trifle ler have their rank's clothes Europe, and, •esented him- a single word case. Being represented IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 540 Itimself to be, and sent immediately for the interpreter, who put some questions to him in Italian, which he did not answer; he was then questioned in French, but no reply; and next in the German and Spanish languages, and still he was silent; at last, when he saw that they were all deceived, the Bashaw not excepted, he burst out in plain Turkish, the only language he was acquainted with, and his well known voice told them who he was; for such was the change of his person, particularly by the cutting off his beard, that other- wise they could scarcely have recognised him. The Bashaw was delighted with the fellow; and, to keep up the frolic, gave him an order on the treasury for an enormous sum of money, and sent him to the Kaciabay, to present himself as a Frank, to receive it. -The Kaciabay started at the immen- sity of the sum, as it was nearly all that the treasury could furnish; but upon questioning this new European, it was soon discovered who he was. In this attire he went home to his women, who actually thrust lum out of the door; and such was the disgrace of cutting off his beard, that even liis fellow buffoons would not eat with him till it was grown again. ' / .. i '/> ■ r-. .(,'» Having heard of electricity, the Bashaw sent to England for two electric machines, one with a plate, the other with a cylinder. The former was broken by the way, the latter j was dismounted. The physician of the Bashaw, an Arminian, did not know, though it was so easy a matter, how to set it up. Mr. Belzoni happening to be at tbe garden one evening, when they were attempting it, and could not succeed, he was requested to put the several pieces toge- ther, and having done so, he made one of the soldiers mount on the insulating stool, charged the machine, and gave the Turk a good shock ; who, expecting no such thing, uttered a loud cry, and jumped off much terrified. The Bashaw laughed at the man's jumping off, supposing his fright to be a trick, and not the effect of the machine; and when told that it was actually occasioned by (he machine, he ailirmed ■ \- \y n i ■ w .1 i 1 ■,:, '- ■4 ll fi50 BBLZONl'S TRAVELS positively that it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance, that it was impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power. Mr. Belzoni then desired the interpreter to inform his highness, that if he would mount the stool himself, he would be convinced of the fact. He hesitated for a while whether to believe it or not; however he mounted the stool, the chain was put into his hand, and he received a pretty smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on feeling the effect of the electricity; but imme- diately threw himself on the sofa in a fit of laughter, not being able to conceive how the machine could have such power on the human body. During Mr. Belzoni's stay at Soubra, a circumstance occurred, which shewed plainly the country he was in, and the people he had to deal with. Some particular business calling him to Cairo, he was on his ass in one of the narrow streets, where he met a loaded camel. The space that re- mained between the camel and the wall was so little, that he could scarcely pass; and at that moment he was met by a Binbashi, a subaltern officer,, at the head of his men. For the instant he was the only obstacle that prevented his pro- ceeding on the road, and he could neither retreat nor turn round, to give him room to pass. The soldier seeing it was a Frank who stopped his way, gave him a violent blow on his stomach. Not being accustomed to put up with such salutations, Mr. Belzoni refiurned the compliment with his whip across the shouldeis uf the Binbashi; upon which he in- stantly took his pistol out of liis belt, and fired at the head of Mr. Belzoni, singed his hair near the right ear, and killed a soldier who at this time had come behind him. Finding that he had missed his aim, he took out a second pistol, but hu own soldiers assailed and disarmed him. A great noise arose in the street, and as it happened to be near the seraglio in the Esbakie, some of the guards ran up, but on seeing what the matter was, they interfered and stopped the Binbashi. Mr. Belzoni mounted his charger, iT-nrl™ I.' ras at tuob a in he held in I then desired ! vrould mount the fact. He not; hovre\er , bis hand, and ed off, like the ity; butimme- f laughter, not >uld have such a circumstance r be -was in, and rdcular business ae of the narrow le space that re- 80 little, that he lie was met by a )f his men. For evented his pro- retreat not turn Lier seeing it vras L violent blow on I put up with such jpliment with his upon which he in- fired at the head rht ear, and killed fndhim. Finding second pistol, but 1 it happened to be [the guards ran up, Vey interfered ami lunted his charger, IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 551 and rode off to Mr. Baglios, and told him what had happened; they repaired immediately to the citadel, saw the Bashaw, and related the circumstance to him. He was much cob-> cerned, and wished to know where the soldier was, but ob- served, that it was too late that evening to have him taken up, however, he was apprehended the next day. This was a lesson to Mr. Belzoni, who took good care in future, not to give the least opportunity of the kind to men of that de- scription, who can murder an European with as much in- difference as they would kill an insect. . .i A charming young lady, about sixteen years of age, daugh- ter of the Chevalier Bocty, consul-general of Sweden, went out of her house, in company with her mother, sister, and some other ladies, to go to a bath. They formed a caval- cade on asses, as is the custom of the country, and had not proceeded far from their door when they met a soldier, (a monster it should seem) who took a pisto^ from his belt, and with the greatest coolness, fired and killed the young lady. She was one of the most amiable creatures, both in manners and person, that ever lived; and was most deservedly la- mented by every one who knew her. To the honour of Mahommed AH, the monster was taken and executed, but what satisfaction could this be to her afilicted parents. The Arabs of Soubra exhibit as much festivity, when a marriage of consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt. Early in the morning of the grand holi- day, a high pole is planted in the centre of the place, with a banner belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gather under it, and preparations are made for an illumina- tion with glass lamps, &c. The Arabs from other villages come to the feast in procession, beating their tambourines, and waving their flags. At some distance from the pole they halt, and do not advance till a deputation is sent to invite tliem to the feast. The elders of the village seat themselves around and under the pole, and tlie strangers at a little distance. One of the villagers near the pole begins \Wr •' nr 1 U ) • 662 BBLZONI'S TRAYRLS to sing, meanwhile the rest divide themsolves into two parties, forming two circles, one within the otlier, round the pole and facing each other. By each man putting his arms over his neighbour's shoulders, each circle forms a continuous chain. The outer circle stand still, while the people of the inner circle keep dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those in the outer. Thus they continue for three hours. Some of the Hadgees, who are desirous of exhibiting their powers in ceremonial devotion, go on for two hours, bending their bodies nearly to the ground, and raising them up again with such quickness, that it would be impossible for any one who is not accustomed to it, to undergo such exertion a quarter of an hour. All the women are at a distance by themselves, and among them is the bride. When the danc- ing and singing is ended, they all sit down in large circles, and a great quantity of boiled rice is brought to them in large wooden bowls, besides a number of dishes of melokie and bamies, (plants eaten in common by the Arabs as greens), ond three or four large sheep roasted, which are immediately torn to pieces and devoured. For the drinking department they have a number of boys, who are fully employed in fetching water in large bardacks from the Nile. At night, the pole and all the place around it is illuminated; the people seat themselves in an orderly manner, in the form of an amphitheatre, the women forming a part of the circle, separate from the men. A band of tambourines and pipes is continually playing, and the entertainment begins, with dancing, by two well-known and distinguished performers. When the dancing is at an end, a sort of play is performed, the intent of which is to exhibit life and manners, as in the European theatres. The subject represented an Hadgee, who wants to go to Mecca, and applies to a camel-driver to procure a camel for him ; the driver imposes on him, by not letting him see the seller of the cumel, and putting a higher price on it than is really asked, giving so much less to the seller than he received from the purchaser. A camel is i into two r, round tlie ing hi8 arms a continuous eople of t\»e erly manner lliree iiours. hibiting their ours, bending liem up again le for any one oh exertion a a distance by rhen the danc- i large circles, o them in large of melokie and rabs as greens), ure immediately ing department ly employed in .ile. At night. Illuminated; the , in the form of t of the circle, irines and pipes fent begins^ with ;d performers. lay is performed, jnners, as in the [ted an Hadgee, camel-driver to |s on him. by not putting a higher Imuch less to the er. A camel is IN F.CJYPT AND NUBIA. 553 nt length seemingly produced, which consists of two men covered over with a cloth and apparently iu waiting to* sot out for Mecca. The Hadgee mounts and attempts to ride, but fmds the camel so bud a beast that he requires his money to bo returned. An altercation then arises between the driver and the buyer, during which the r«al owner of the camel appears, and on examination fmds that the driver has substi- tuted a camel of inferior value, and was thus defrauding the buyer and seller. Upon this the driver is severely beaten and in conclusion runs away. The whole audience appeared well pleased with the performance. it This was followed by another performance, describing a European on his travels. Arriving at the house of a poor Arab, bo wished to obtain refreshment. The former made an ostentatious parade of his wealth by ordering his wife to kill a sheep, and this command she seems to obey, but quickly returns with an account that the flock had strayed to a great distance and could not be found. Upon this information he directs several fowls to be killed ; but she returns and states that she cannot catch them. She is then sent to procure a supply of pigeons, but every pigeon is absent from their roost. At length, as their only remaining resource, the traveller is provided with a meal of sour milk and bread, which con- cludes the entertainment. Mr. Bankes, jun. arrived soon after this period, as did also the celebrated traveller Burckhardt, and !Wv. Salt the British consul. During an interval of a few weel' -■, in which Mr. Bankes proceeded to Mount Sinai and visited other in- teresting places, Mr. Bglzoni had finished his water machine, and every preparation being made, on a stated day the Ba- shaw arrived from Alexandria and attended the exhibition of the powers of the machine, accompanied by several persons who were considered to possess a considerable acquaintance with hydraulics. The principle of the machine was that of a crane having a large tread wheel, in which an ox was to walk und draw up more water than four oxen could accomplish on P. V. 24. 4 B SI I I' li 9 i"; ■ i i ; I yj i in 1 . 1 ,; iJ A51 imLZONTH TKAVRLt X ;i Uic plant at that timo ndoplcd in the country. The machine being (iut in motion, drew six times the quantity of watei which their own muchincH produced ; but a conHideruble deal of envy and prejudice was manifested by the natives against the improved method, and every impediment and objection thrown in the way of its accomplishment. Mahomed Ali, the Bashaw, could not but notice the prejudice entertained by his people, and admitted that great improvement was effected, for instead of six hundred oxen aud drivers being necessary to procure water, it was evident that one hundred of each would be sufllcient. A circumstance however took place which put a stop to the further prosecution of these plans. The Bashaw took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what ef- fect the machine would have by putting fifteen men into it. James, the Irish lad, entered with them : but no sooner bad the wheel turned once round, than they all jumped out» leaving the lad alone in it. The wheel, overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity, that the catch was unable to stop it. The lad was thrown oi^t, and in the fall broke one of his thighs. Mr. Belzoni stopped the wheel before it did farther injury, wiiich might have been fatal to him. The Turks are strong believers in fatalism, and this acci- dent was considered by them as so bad an omen, that accom- panied by the prejudices wliich were manifested, the Bashaw was prevailed on to abandon the use of this machine, and to continue the use of those already worked in that country. Being thus defeated in the further pursuit of the plan which brought him to Egypt, and also deprived of that pecuniary remuneration which he expected, as he received not the money which hud been agreed by the Bashaw to pay him, iiis miud was led to the contemplation of other projects, and hs felt particularly reluctant to leave a country abounding with the grandest works of the ancients, and in the investiga- lion of which he felt peculiar delight. His finances however IN notPT AND NUBIA. 665 wore too ciroumHcribod to aflbrd him the opportuoily of pro- oeeding to any diHtuncc, ospeciully as he was accompanied by Mrs. Bel^soni. Having hud several interviews with Mr. Burckhardt and Mr. Salt while the machine was in progress, during wliich their conversation often turned naturally on the antiquities by which they were surrounded, the removal of the colossal bust of Memnon to Great Britain had been started by Mr. Burck- hardt as an object greatly to be desired. Being much dis- posed to such pursuits, Mr. Belzoui often expressed before them with what satisfaction he should like to undertake the removal of that bust, and to further any efforts to send it to the British Museum. These conversations however ended without producing any decisive measures, and upon a full consideration he at length resolved to trust to his own efTcHrts, and calculating that with economy he could make a voyage to Assouan and back, he gave way to his enthusiastic love of antiquities, and which he had cultivated in early life while resident in Italy, he resolved to ascend the river Nile. Having resolved as to his course, he communicated his intentions to Mr. Burckhardt ; and on applying to the British Consul to request him to procure a firman, or protection from the Bashaw, he manifested great satisfaction. Mr. Burckhardt was present at the time of his application to the Consul, and they said that it was their wish to obtain the colossal head, and to make a present of it to the British Museum. They requested Mr. Belzoni to undertake the removal of it, and he promised to use his endeavours to effect it, saying that it would afford him great pleasure in removing it to that place. In consequence of this interview the following plan of di- rections for his conduct was given to him. ** Mr. Belzoni is recjuested to prepare the necessary imple- ments at Boolak, for the purpose of raising the head of a statue of the younger Memnon, and carrying it down the Nile. He will proceed as spetulily us circumstances will allow, to Siout, 4 B :! I its 4 iwi ■f V !• I 4 s m U''. ! i4 3i>£.< ■•■»w,.. Md HnLZONIK TRAVELS thorn to deliver liU letters, prepared for that elTixt, (ti thru- him Oushuw, or nhouvcr muy bo left in the cliurgo of the f^overiimcnt ; and lie will, at that pluce, conHiilt with Doctor Scotto on the subject of liis^ further proceedings. Ho will take oaro to engage a proper bout for bringing down the head, and will request Mr. Scotto to provide him with uhoI- dior to go up with him, for the purpose of engaging the Fel- lahs to work whenever ho may require their assistance, um otherwise they are not likely to attend to Mr. Del/oni'H or- ders ; and ho should on no account leave Siout without uii interpreter. " Having obtoinod the neceHsary permission to hire work- men, &o., Mr. Belzoni will proceed direct to Theboa. He will And the head referred to on the western side of the river, opposite to Carnak, in the vicinity of u villug(i called Gornou, lying on tho southern side of a ruined temple, called by the natives Kossor el Dokuki. To tho head is still attached a portion of the shoulders, so tliat altogether it is of large di- mensions, and will be recognised— by the circumstances of its lying on its back with the face uppermost— by the face behig quite perfect, and very beautiful — by its having, on one of its shoulders, a hole bored urtificially, supposed to have been made by tho Freucli fur sepuruting the fragment of tho body— and from Its being u mixed blackish and reddish granite, and covered with hieroglyphics on its shoulders. It must not be mistaken for another, lying in that neighbourhood, which is much mutilated. " Mr. Delzoni will spare no expense or trouble in getting it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible ^ and liO will, if it be necessary, let it wait there till the river shall have attained sulTicient height, before ho attempts to get it into the boat. But, at the same time, he is requested not to attempt removing it, on any account, if he Should judge there would be any serious risk of either injuring the head, of burying the face in tho sand, or of losing it in the Nile. If, on arriving at the ground, ho iihould poiteive IN BOYPT AND NURIA. My ,, to Ibta •pro of UlM ith Doctor . Uo wiU i; down i\to with ftRol- iig t»ic Fcl- BlgtUllCC, UH lol/oni's or- t without au to hire wovk- [•hcbcii. He , of the river, kUed Gornou, called by the ill attached a is of largo di- cumstances of — hy the face laving, on one posi5d to have :agmcnt of the Icddish granite, It must not .urhood, which [uble in getting Ivor as possible ; ]ro till the river ho attempts to ho is requested it, if ho Should [ler injuring the losing it •»» Ibo ihould peitcive (hat his mrans are inadequato, or that llio didicullics of the undertaking, from tlio nature of the ground, or other cuuses, are .likely to prove insurmountable, he will, at oncn, relin- <|uish the enterprise, and not enter into farther oxponso on that account. " Mr, llelzoni will have tho goodness to keep a separate- aroount of the expenses incurred in this undertakuig, which, as well us his other expenses, will gladly lio reimbursed ; as, from the knowledge of Mr. nelzoni's character, it is conH- "'" T toformation "'P^^'S^'f otto, he made many diffloalfes : ducing the matter to Mr. Scouo, ,^„e3sary i»ork- L/abont obtaining per J.oMokave*e ^^^ ^^^^_ ^^ „en, then there ^'^""JCtl the carriage •. at last, he bust «s a mass of stone not wor ^^^ ^^^._^^^^ _,, ^,.-,„„ -commended him not ^-* ^. ,_ ^, , he would meet with many disa, ^^^ j^j „a., serious o^staoies to«"eo.-- «» ^,„ arrived. He received fc Be'. J ^^^^.^^^ ^^^^ „«- sented a letter to hun * J'""^ "'^ ^^^^ed him with orders to t„„et AU himself, »* •"^^'J^X to whom the Fellah, the Casheir of the province of Erment , ofThebes ore subject. „, ^pper Egypt. There is a Siout is the capital of Sais, ^^ PP ^^^^^ ^^^^ j,^f„„,. constant commerce ''«P' "? / ,, ^ndgum, are the prin- Negroes, feathers, '^''P^l.'t „arke' The viceroy of eipal articles that arc b ougM ^^ f„„ Upper Egypt i« alwey f" .""^f.'^ price, mid pays what ,he caravan; tor which he '^'^^°lZ who dare not buy telikes. The rest IS for the mer T,,isplace,s «„, thing till the viceroy ^'^l^ ^, ,„„„ ^ the ope- rated for the »*-\t,rrretar-ed in the ground, all ration is performed, the hoys je b ^^^ __^^ „„, „f ,„„„, - *' r ^^^hTe— in^' pohl. ItiscalcuLed, conatitutious, aic wuu vu ■ }i bs had disco ,ple had been agus out but } v?elcome to Bashayr, Mr. itSiout. The tpected in two [r. Scotto, the jyas referred for 5. Upon intro- any difficulties: necessary v?ork- L; and next, the iage: at last, he a the business, as things, and have 6th day the Bey politely, whopre- eceivedfromMa- bim vvith orders to , whom the Fellahs igypt. There is a ans from Darfoor. gum. are the prm- t. The viceroy o\ ihat he pleases from rice, and pays what v,ho dare not buy wice. This place IS As soon as the ope- ed in the ground, all who are not of strong pain. It is calculated, IN EGYl'T AND NUBIA. 559 that the operation, during its performance or afterwords^ proven fatal to two out of three. The tyrannical power exercised by those in authority may be imagined from the following circumstance. A man was brought before the Bashaw charged with a particular crime. Having put two or three questions as to the circumstances of the case, he sent him to an inferior judge called a Cadi, and with little previous ceremony he was condeuned to be tied to the mouth of a cannon, which blew the body into a thousand pieces. On another occasion a soldier had con- ducted himself in a violent manner towards two Arabs, by whom in the contest he was afterwards killed. The Arabs were seized and fastened to a pole and roasted to] death before a fire. Actions so revolting to human nature cannot but excite sentiments of commiseration in the minds of every Christian, living under the regulated and defined principles of a government conducted as in this happy land ; and must lead every one who properly reflects, not to murmur at what he may suppose to be erroneous and wrong in his own na- tion, but to admire the tendency of the whole system of the British government to deal faithfully, equitably and merci- fully towards every subject, whatever their rank may be. On the 15th Mr. Belzoni visited a convent of religious at Acmin. Some of the fathers accompanied him on a visit to the Casheff or governor of the place, who being given to un- derstand that Mr. Belzoni was in search of antiquities, said that there were many in the neighbourhood, but that no one could obtain them because they were under the controul of a spirit whose enchantments it would be danger- ous to meddle with. Mr. Belzoni in reply requested to have the situation pointed out, and said that he felt himself su- perior to the power of any magical opposition. The Casheff however said, that if any one were to point out their situation, the spirit would certainly inflict some punishment upon them. The Casheff further informed him that at the distance of a few miles from Acmin there was a rock, in which was for- . m I J^- m i t 1 'It . y 1'' - SCO BBLZONl'S TRAVELS merly a gold ring of considerable size ; that various attempts had been made to get it out, and cannon balls had been flred against it to break that part of the rock without produciuT any effect ; but that a person who was witnessing the attempt, threw part of a cucumber which he .was eating at the ring, and it immediately fell out. The belief of such an absurdity must shew in what a state of ignorance and fanaticism the people of this country live, when even; the governor was thus blinded and prejudiced. On the 19th, Mr. Belzoni arrived at the ruins of the temple of Tentyra, situated about two miles from the river Nile. The grandeur of the scene was impressive and filled the be- holder with astonishment, ^li^^ structure was in a state of great preservation, and the harmonious proportion of the various parts excited the most delightful feelings, and was altogether a magnificent display of the talents and powers of the ancients. It is supposed to have been erected in the time of the first Ptolomy, the founder of the great Alexan- drian library, so well known as one of the wonders of the age. Denon, who accompanied Buonaparte and the French army into Egypt, considered this spot as the sanctuary of the sciences and of the arts. The front is adorned with a beautiful cornice, and a frieze covered with figures and hieroglypliios, over the centre of which a winged globe is predominant, and the two sides are embellished with compartments of sacrifices and ofi*erings. The columns that form the portico are twenty-four in number, divided into four rows, including those in the front. On en- tering the gate the quadrangular form of the capitals strikes the eye. At each side of the square there is a colossal head of the goddess Isis with cows' ears. These heads are much mutilated, jKirticularly those on the columns in the front of the temple facing the outside ; but notwithstanding the disad- vantage, and the flatness of their form, there is a simplicity in their countenance approaching to a smile. The shafts of the columns are covered with hieroglyphics and figures. wlii(^h IN RGYPt AND NUBU. S61 IS attempts I been fired t producing he attempt, at the ring, xa abBurdity naticism the aor was thus )f the temple B river Nile. rdled the be- in a state of ortion of the [igs, and was i and powers erected in the rreat Alexan- onders of the md the French 5 sanctuary of I, and a frieze the centre of 3 two sides are and offerings, our in number, front. On en- capitals strikes n colossal head leads are mucli in the front of iding the disad- is a simplicity The shafts of id figures, which are in basso relievo, as are all the ffguses in the front and lateral walls. The front of the door- way, which is in a straight line with the entrance and the sanctuary, is richly adorned with figures of smaller size than the rest of the portico. The ceiling contains the zodiac, inclosed by two long female figures, which extend from one side to the other of it. The walls are divided into several square compartments, each containing figures representing deities, and priests in the act of offering or immolating victims. On all the walls, columns, ceiling, or architraves, there is no where a space of two feet that is not covered with figures of human beings, animals, plants, emblems of agriculture, or of religious ceremony. The inner apartments are much the same as the portico, all covered with figures in basso relievo, to which the light enters through small holes in the walls : the sanctuary itself is quite dark. In the comer of it is the door, which leads to the roof by a staircase, the walls of which are covered with figures in basso relievo. On the top of the temple the Arabs had built a village, but it is all in ruins, as no one now lives there. Mr. Belzoni descended into some apartments on the east side of the temple, and saw the famous zodiac on the ceiling. On the left, there is a small temple surrounded by columns. In the inside is a figure of Isis sitting with Orus in her 1^, and other it>male figures, each with a child in her arms. The capitals of the columns are adorned with the figure of Typhon. The gallery or portico, that surrounds the temple, is filled up with rubbish to a great height, and walls of unbumt bricks have been raised from one column to another. Farther on, in a right line with the propyleeon, are the remains of an hyptethral temple, which form a -square of twelve columns, connected with each other by a wall, except at the door-way, which fronts the propylaeon. The eastern wall of the great temple is richly adorned with figures in intaglio relevato : they are perfectly finished : the fomale figures are about four feet high, disposed in different compartments. Behind the tem- ple is a small Egyptian building, quite detached from the P. V. 24. 4 C 4 \ ii ^' : M '. ix • i BELZONl'S TBAVBLS largo edi/icOf ond from its consU'uotion appeared to have been the habitation of the priests. At some distance from the great temple are the foundations of another not so large as the first. ■• I :■ .. i; ^ thick groups of enormous columns; the variety of apartments and the sanctuary it contains ; the beautlfiil ornaments which adorn every part of the walls and columns ; the battles on the pro- pyleeon, described by Mr. Hamilton ; cause in the astonished traveller an oblivion of all that he has seen before. On the north side of Thebes the towering remains that project a great height above the wood of palm trees, will call his atten- tion to such an assemblage of ruins of temples, columns, obelisks, colossi, sphynxcs, portals and other astonishing objects, as will be at onco beyond the possibility of description. On the west side of the Nile, the temptes of Goumou, Memnonium, and Medinet Aboo, attest the extent of the great city on this side. The unrivalled colos- sal figures in the plains of Thebes, the number of tombs excavated in the rocks, those in the gi"eat valley of the kings, with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, sarcho- phagi, figures, &c. are all objects of the greatest admiration ; and the traveller will be led to wonder how a nation, which was once so great as to erect such stupendous edifices, could so far fall into oblivion, that even their language and writings are now totally unknown. •" " ... . Having taken a view of the various other t)bjects which arrest the attention of the traveller and man of taste, they examined the colo.ssal bust that was intended to be removed. Fourteen poles had been brought from Cairo to lay the bust on, and part of them were formed into a kind of car, on ^rhich it was to be placed. Being at this time far distant 4 C 2 I 'fVi V 'J'% 504 BBLZONl'S TRAVBLV \W. \ I: from the boat which had brought them up the Nile, they took up their residence in a portion of the buildings with which they were surrounded. Mrs. Belzoni, who accom- panied her husband, manifested a disposition to conform to the privations and indifferent accommodations which pre- sented themselves, with as great a readiness as her husband. The time was now approaching when the Nile annually inun- dates the country, and it would in that case have been impos- sible to remove the bust this season ; and this induced Mr. Belzoni to use every effort to quicken the conveyance of the bust. On the 24th of July, he went to the Cacheff of Erments to obtain an order to the Cuimakan of Gournou and Agalta to procure eighty Arabs, to assist in the removal of the bust of young Memnon. Ue received him with that politeness which is peculiar to the Turks, even when t aey do not mean in the slightest degree to comply with a person's wishes, and which often deceives a traveller, who only on passant takes coffee, smokes his pipe, and goes away. There are exceptions among them, as there are among the Christians of Europe ; but in general the protestations of friendship and partiality for a person, whom they never saw before, b so common among them, that at last it becomes a matter of course ; and no reliance is placed on it, except by those who are unac- quainted with the customs of the country. He promised to do every thing in his power to get the Arabs .to work. Mr. Belzoni told him he relied on his word, and gave him to understand, that if he behaved in a manner conformably to the orders of the Bashaw, he would receive a present accordingly. All the promises made by the Cacheff were only so many attempts to deceive. Several fellahs, or persons of the la- bouring class, might have been procured, but they dared not assist without permission from the Cacheff or some person in authority, however desirous they might be of earning money. After repeated efforts and solicitations, tba CacheflF IN boVpt and nubia. fi65 lUe, they lings vitb 10 accom- sonfotm to whicb pte- sr husband, lually inun- jeen impos- aduced Mr. yaace of the of Erments iiandAgaUa i\ of the bust lat politeness do not mean swishes, and passant takes are exceptions tts of Europe ; and partiality is so common f course ; and ho are unac- L get the Arabs his word, and in a manner ,ould receive a only so many tons of the la- [they dared not or some person |be of earning. as, tba Cacheff did, on the 97th, send a few men to aid him hi his attempt. Mr. Belzoni agreed to pay them thirty paras a day, which sum was about the value of four-pence halfpenny of British money. This being considerably more than the wages usually paid, many more fellahs entered upon the work. The car which was built for the conv«yance of the colossal bust being now ready, the work began. Upon seeing it move they all gave a loud shout, and said some spirit moved it ; and noticing that Mr. Belzoni was making marks as they supposed, he being at this time writing, they all concluded that by some talismanic charm he had caused the head to move, and did not believe it to be the effect of their own efforts. By means of four leavers he raised the bust, so as to leave a vacancy under it to introduce the car ; and, after it was slowly lodged on this, the car was raised in the front, with the bust on it, so as to get one of the rollers underneath. The same operation being performed at the back, the colos- sus was readily pulled up. Men were stationed with levers each side of the car, to assist occasionally, if the colossus should turn to either side. In. tins manner he kept it safe from falling, and by this means removed it the distance of several yards from its original place/ Mr. Belzoni now sent an Arab to Cairo with intelligence that the bust had begun its journey towards Great Britain. When the Arabs found that they received money for the removal of what appeared to them only a stone, they entertained the opinion that it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value ought not to be taken away. The heat of the climate, the exposure to the sun, and the efforts made by Mr. Belzoni himself, so overpowM-cd him, that he was obliged to take a day to rest and recover his strength. They continued daily moving the head towards the Nile, advancing sometimes one hundred yards and sometimes two or three hundred yards each day, until the the 5th of August, by which time they were nearly advanced over the lands, which if inundated by the ovcjrpowing of the ti M I' < i ^M i .m DBLXONre TRAVBL8 ^^ . . ^^nmm fnt Olftt SOaSOU. Anticipating • «'««'=»^' "^,1' of the »xtU. ttat none of .„n.,Ued to ftnd. on tte « ^^ ,,„ ^ the felLta »«■« ^' •"" ?^ ™^ the he»l. info™"* "-^ been left »' Fading that «" C«.n»K» ™J „,„„ ^„ ke,.t in M, ,0 tod him. ae«'>»l'«»~."' caimakan treated himwith ^loe. Having fonnd h,m. tta, Ca, ^^^ ^ ^^_^_^.,.. ^at insolence! ™* •»'"«, Ldhi. anger and Ae«d a 1 hi... Mr. BeW -"7; *J:„i „nl, iocrea«d irit of »"'>r"°"„!^ „ .rCuimakan. Pre.«mi»g on lie haughty *«"'«°»°" , .rl,ton.pted to put bis band, on hhn. -'^"V'Talg received a good Icson at Cauo arew hU .word. Havmg r ,„„ f,„„ another A«--^*;>'^\';;, i„,^ti, „i«d and „„ lei«.ro to execute h» P»^ J ^j^_^^^^_ ^a „ado aunr„ed him. pla«d h» ^nd. ^_ fc, keep. U„ sensible of bU •"?»-" »;XTi.e pi-U-L and sword. ing him firm in a corner of *e t» ^^„ ^y u,c Xb h. bad thrown on ^"'^'"^^^^ ^ ,taUng. Mr. „; and after i-'-^^'^'ZuAoU him. that he Be.«.oi took P»»--j; t Iw the Bashaw in what should send them to «•«».' Cuunakan followel ^nerbisorders-re-P-tU- T__^^ ^^^ ^^ ^,_^ ^^„^ tin, wward. the boat, and was ^^ ___^j,^„ „, ,( ftnn he began to be q""^^-^^ ^^^ ^, ,Ke order he h^ nothing had happened. Ho U ^^.^^^ ^^^^ ,^. fa:;«^rr«--'----'"'""^ ■f J 1 r. 1 H t i a^ 1 672 AttLZONl'S TRAVELS i madan. The motley confused manner in ^hich this great divan was decorated was curious ; one had a new tunic of their brown cloth, and a ragged turban; another had a fine turban, and a ragged tunic; a third without turban or tunic, had afine red woollen shawl round his body ; the Aga himself was uncommonly dirty and showy, being dressed in green and red, and without a shirt on his back. He came on board with all his suite. On the 28th, they passed several ruins on the bank of the Nile. The Reis to whom the boat belonged, and the sailors, went on shore at a village, leaving only Mr. and Mrs. Bcl- zoni and the interpreter in the boat. Soon after they were gone, some of the inhabitants came towards the boat and appeared to e?camine it with close attention. After this they all retired. Soon, however, a party were observed approaching armed with offensive weapons. Alarmed rather by their appearance, Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni and the inter- preter armed themselves with pistols and stood upon their gnard. The natives entered their boat, and made towards Mr. Belzoni, who by sig^s desired them to keep at a dis- tance, as they understood not their language. Disregarding his motions they came close, and he resisted the foremost with one hand, while wHh the other he presented a pistol at him, and gave him to understand that he would certainly fire if he persisted in his attempt. This checked them for a time, and the Reis and crew appearing in sight, they thought proper to withdraw. On the 30th, landing at a place near which stood the ruins of an ancient temple, they immediately entered it, but on coming out they found themselves surrounded by a party of the natives armed with offensive weapons. They de- manded to be paid for permission to come out;>-but Mr. Belzoni replied that he would not suffer money to bo taken from himself by such conduct, but that he would make them such presents as he thought proper if they did not oppose him ; and instantly moving forward with a determined step, bank of the 1 the sailors, id Mrs. Bel- jr they wore he boat and After this ;re observed larmed rather ind the inter- )d upon their made tovfards leep at a dis- Disregarding the foremost ited a pistol at 1 certainly fire em for a time, they thought hich stood the entered it, but ded by a party ns. They de- out; 'but Mr. ey to be taken lid make them did not oppose itermined step, IN BOYPT AND NUBIA. 578 they gave yraj and let the party pass. The next momtp;; they proceeded to Gyrshe and entered a small temple, the floors of which had mostly been dug up, probably in search of treasure. The natives were rather rough in their manners, but were easily satisfied with a piece of soap, a pipe of to- bacoo, and a few paras. Here they bought some gargadan^ a grain about the sIeo of a small shot, which the Nubians use as coffee. It is a good substitute where no coffee is to be had, and is much cheaper. A little above this place is a dangerous passage of the Nile, a chain of rocks Tunning across the river, and making it very alarming,' when the waters are low ; but as they were now high, it yeas passed without danger. On the 1st of September they arrived at Korosko. The Reis caught some cameleons. These creatures feed on rice, or on flies. They bit off each others legs. They swim faster than they can crawl. It was endeavoured to keep them alive, but without success. On the 5th they arrived at Deir, the principal town of Lower Nubia. The houses are not more than ten feet high, and are built principally of earth intermixed occasionally with stones. Mr. BelsSoni waited on Hassan Cacheff, the governor of the place, who desired to know his business. He replied, that their party were desirous of examining the antiquities of the country. This the Cacheff said would not be practicable, as at this time they were at war with the people who occupied the territories higher up the country. He made inquiry if any presents were intended to be made to him, and being given to understand that the party had but little, but that they would spare him part of their store of coffee, soap and to- bacco, and he appeared satisfied . He also gave the Cacheff a large looking glass with which be appeared to be highly pleased. There were several of his people who had not seen a looking-glass before, and it astonished them greatly. The Cacheff was never tired of admiring his bear-like face ; and all his attendants behind him strove to get a peep at their 'i; l''-\ n m , 1 ■) 574 BBLIONI'S TRAVELS' own chocolate beauty, laughing, and much pleased \vitb it. The Cacheff gave it, not without fear, to one of them, with a strict charge to be careful not to break it. The Esquimaux are said to be very filthy in their food, but these people were not unlike them in that respect. If they killed a sheep, the intrails were opened, and pieces were dipped into the water and eaten raw. The head and feet with the skin on, wool, hoofs, and all, were put into a pot to be half-boiled, when they drank the broth, and devoured the rest On reaching Faras, they went to see the temples of Ybsambul. Grosshig the Nile exactly opposite, they had an opportunity of examining and having full views of them at a distance. - In the frbnt of the minor temple are six colossal figures, which make a better appearance at a distance than when near. They are thirty feet high, and are hewn out of the rock ; as is also the large temple, which has one figure of an enormous size, with the head and shoulders only pro- jecting out of the sand. The sand from the north side, accumulated by the wind on the rock above the temple, and which had gradually descended towards its . ont, choked the entrance, and buried two thirds of it, so that the hope of opening its entrance vanished ; for the amazing accumulation of sand was such, that it appeared an impossibility ever to reach the door. •■ '.'.' i- • >-i ! The Cachelf exercises the most tyrannical authority. He seizes on the property of any person at his pleasure, and the life of his people is subject entirely to him. The son of the Cacheff, who exercised authority here at this time, desired to know what gave occasion to the visit of Mr. Belzoni and his people. To this it was replied, that Mr. Belzoni had a letter to bis father from his uncle and that he came into the country in search of ancient stones. He laughed, and said that a few months before he had seen another man, who came in search of treasure, and took away a great deal of gold in his boat ; and that he supposed they carac for the *l^l ed vitb it. lem, with a their food, 'espect. M pieces vrere id and feet ut into a pot ,nd devoured e temples of 5, they had an of them at a e six colossal distance than ire hewn out of 18 one figure of ,ders only pro- be north side, be temple, and ,nt, choked the lat the hope of ^g accumulation ,8sibility ever to authority. H^ leasure, and the The son of the lis time, desired Mr. Belzoni and [r. Belzoni had a le came into the laughed, and said Another man, who U a great deal of fey came for the IN BOYPT AND NU%IA. sn same parpose, for what could tliey want with ■toneB, if it were not tliat be Vfas able to procure gold for them. Mr. Belzoni proposed to have the place opened, and on a promise, that, if he succeeded, the GacbefT should receive a bakshis, he consented on bis own part ; but still he said his father remained to be persuaded, and then people to be procured, who would work at such a place without fearing harm from the devijl. Mr. Belzoni told him, that those who worked would gain money. " What money do you mean ?" said he, <* money from Mahomet Ali, Bashaw of Cairo? What can we do with it ? we cannot buy any thing here, or at Dongola.*' It appeared that they had little notion of commerce, and that what produce they carry to CairO) Siout, or Esne, they exchange fur other articles, which they send to the southern country of Nubia, and never receive any money for it. Mr. Belzoni produced a piastre, and showed it to some of the people : one of them took the piastre, and after looking at it for some time, asked who would give any thing for that small piece of metal. " Any one," said Mr. Belzoni, " will give a measure of dhourra for it, quite enough for a man to eat in three days." " That may be so in your country,** replied he ; " but here, no one will give six grains of dhourra for so small a bit of iron." Mr. Belzoni told him, if he went on board his boat, and presented it to any one there, he would get for it dhourra enough to suffice him for the time mentioned. Oif be ran like a deer, and in a few minutes returned with the dhourra folded in a rag fastened to his waists Being very desirous to see the cataracts, Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni, with the Janizary and interpreter, proceeded as far as the day would permit, so as to return in proper time to the boat at night. They had many views of the cataract, and in different directions. It is a flat country, except a few rocks that project here and there, particularly at the river's side, but they are of small dimensions. Towards Ill -i i i 14 I ' 1 : " '1 « 576 BBLSUNI'S TRAVBL8 i }'\ h'i the desert they saw sereral wild antelopes, which kept at a great distance. As the Nile was hif^h, the current had not so great a fall as when it is low; but the cataract id not navigable at any time of the year. The rock forming this cataract ditTera from that of the first, for here is no granite, but a kind of black marble quite as hard. Early in the morning of the 14th, they took on board two men of the island, to pilot them towards the cataract as far as the boat could go, and then to show the way to pro- ceed. Several of the women came to see Mrs. Belzoni, who made them presents of glass bead-necklaces, with which they were wonderfully pleased ; though, as it is their custom to take all, and give nothing, they did not even return thanks for what they received ; but took their pre« sents, laughed, and ran away immediately. The Cacheft*s house was adorned with an old mat spread on the ground as usual, a water jar, and a chain with two hooks made in a particular manner. This was that same Osseyn, who was one of the two brothers that caused Mr. Burckhardt to return from Tinareh. He was about sixty- eight years of age, five feet eleven inches high, stout and robust, and able to support the charge lie was born to hold. He was surrounded by thirty men, all armed, some with matchlock guns and long swords, and some with spears and shields instead of guns. He was clothed in a long tunic down to his feet, made of white woollen cloth, with a belt round his waist, to which his sword, flint, and steel were attached. Over his shoulder be had a long shawl, made of the same stuff as the tunic, thrown partly over his head, so as to cover it from the sun. He had also a red turban, and on his feet a pair of ragged shoes. Notwithstanding his dress, there was an air of superiority about him, which dis- tinguished him at once above all the rest. It is worthy of observation, that even among barbarians great respect is paid to superiors ; and those very men, who would murder a fellow creature in a difference about a few pipes of to- I*' kept at a it \iad not act 13 not rtning this DO granite, t on board cataract as way to pro- ps. Belzoni, ilaces, with asitistbeir lid not even ik their pre- d mat spread lain with two ras that same it caused Mr. I about sixty- gh, stout and . born to hold. ,ed, some with fith spears and a long tunic ,th, with a belt ind steel were jhawl, matle of [er his bead, so ,.ed turban, and ttbstanding his lim, which dis- It is worthy of great respect is ) would murder jw pipes of to- IN GOYPT AND NUBIA. S77 brtftco,' uTrtitist tremble at the frown of a single anid some- limen linrmless old man. His inquiries* concerning Mr. Bel- '/oni trere very minute. Mr. Belzoni brought the affair of (lie temple forward, which did not a little surprise him. He suid lie knew the entrance into the temple very well; that the round ball on the large head was the door of the great I>ere, as fic named it, and if removed any one could immedi^ ately enter. This round ball was no other than the globe on the head of the hawk-headed Osiris, which stood over the door. At first he stated the great diflicnlty, if not impossibi-' lity of opening this place ; and at last, when Mr. Bolsioiit had removed these obstacles, he received a promise, that if Mr. Belzoni fannd in the temple any ^old, he shohld have half. To this Mr. Belzoni a^^d; pn condition that if he found only stones, they should be all his own property. The Gacheffimmediately assented, for he itoid he wanted no stones. ""■/'I uiiilli":! 'I'-,'' ) ii'.r.-.i .!■ i.;t-,:u il^ii •r.-:!/. . <^-.ii'..''. Next morning they went to Ybsambul. Having presented to Daoud the letter from his father, he scut for the men whd were intended to work. These people Were complete sa- vages, and entirely unacquainted with any kind of labour^ They had changiedtheir minds since Mr.Belzdniwaslt^t there ; and, though he had the authority of the Cacheff, they would not work. All persuasion was of no avail; first, because they were not inclined to such labour ; secondly, they did not know the value of money, &c. At last Mr. Belzoni pre- tended to give up his project, and go away. When the Ca- cliart* saw that he meant to go, and that he should lose many a good present, he began to talk to them ; and at last, with much difficulty, reduced the payment to one half of what they hnd demanded before. On Mr. Belzoni agreeing to this, they immediately insisted, that he should employ as many as they chose. It was in vain that he stated, thirty were more than sufficient for his purpose ; they would not hear of less than a hundred. At last it was concluded, that he should take forty men, who were to be at the bark before the sun P. V. 25. 4 E (' !• M : : 578 nBLZUNl'S TRAVELS iir W rose next morning, as it was nearly two miles from the vil- lage to the temple. Ruing early in the morning in expectation of seeing the people whom he was to employ, Mr. Belzoni was surprised that not one made his appearance. On going in search of them, some few at last made their appearance. They pre- tended that they had seen a Bedoween, and feared that they should be killed or taken captives. They now proceeded to remove the sand and earth which covered the front of the temple, and expressed their expectation that much gold, and many jewels would be found in the place. Concluding that such an opinion would stimulate their efforts Mr. Belzoni did not in the least strive to alter their opinion. On the 19th the Cacheff began to start many objections, and to state many diOicuIties. He said the fellahs would not work, and that they said it was useless for them to labour hard for a little money. After listening to many other trifling excuses, it was suggested to Mr. Belzoni that a handsome present to the Cacheff would at once remove all the difficulties. Being from past experience led to see that they never are satisfied with whatever they receive, but were always contriving to obtain more than they agree for, if previously paid, Mr. Bel- zoni only assured the interpreter, that the Cacheff, and him- self (the interpreter,) should receive a good bakshis (present,) if they would serve him. At length several fellahs agreed to work, and on tlie 20th they begun again to proceed, al- though the exertions made were not to much effect. The Cacheff, with his attendants, came to see how they were proceeding, and said he intended dining with them. Mr. Belzoni said he should be glad of his company, but that he had nothing except boiled rice, unless he would order his people to kill a sheep, which Mr. Belzoni said he would gladly pay for. They consi ! ted about who could afford to part with a sheep, and receive piastres in payment, and at last the order was given to an old man, who had five, which was a greater number than any body else. When the sheep IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 579 seeing tho IS surprised in search of They pre- redtlmtthey proceeded to front of the uch gold, and »ncluding that r. Belzoni did On the 19th I to state many urork, and that ord for a little excuses, it was present to the cuUies. Being ver are satisfied s contriving to ypaid.Mr.Bel- icheff, andhim- akshis (present,) al fellahs agreed to proceed, al- ich effect. The how they were with thein. Mr. )any, but that he would order his said he would ,„ could afford to payment, and at ^o had five, which When the sheep was brought, the difficulty was to fix the price of it. Being the first ever sold for money in that place, to put a high price on it would have increased the value of sheep in general, and consequently wotild have been against the interest of the Ca- chefT; for when he receives bis revenue in these animalsj he gets them at a very low price, that he may have the more given him. To estimate it at a low price would be worse, for it would be against them all in the exchange of sheep for dhourra with the other villages. Finding it a dangerous point to decide, it was at length resolved, that no price at all should be put upon the sheep, but that the man should make a present of it, and Mr. Belzoni should give any thing he pleased in return . To prevent any standard being established from what he gave the man, he paid him in soap, tobacco, and salt. At dinner the sheep was brought in pieces in two wooden bowls, and the GachefT and his attendants seated themselves in a circle on the sand near the temple. The extremities of their filthy hands were soon washed in the liquor, and in a few seconds the whole was devoured. Soon after dinner coffee was brought up from the boat, and Mr. Belzoni went on board to take dinner with Mrs. Belzoni, who had boiled rice and water for her fare, in preference to the chieftain's mess of mutton. In a short time the Cacheff approached, and signified his wish to sp^ak to him in secret. The great secret was this : on the night beforo, as he stood on the bank close to the boat, he saw him drinking a coffee cup of red liquor that he poured out of a bottle ; and having inquired what it was, was told it was nebet (wine). Now he had heard that the wine of the English was much better than what they made in their own country with dates; he wished, therefore, to have some to drink also, but in a secret way. Mr. Bel- zoni had a few bottles left, which were preserved for extra- ordinary occasions ; and he sent the interpreter down to the boat to fetch one. When the wine was first poured out into a cup and presented to the Cacheff, he sternly looked at the 4 E 2 S80 UBLZONI'S TRAVBL8 !!i iot&rpretor, and told liim to dxiuk lurst. Tbu interpreter, who w»s a Copt, iuid had been in the French army for sevo> ral yeoTB, did not want much persuasion to make a libation to Bacobus ; so with a smile lie soon convinced the C'ucbeH'ot' the purity of the couteuts of the bottle, and the CachelV did not hesitate to drink the next cup. At the firHt (uslu it did Dot appear to him so strong as lie had supposed ; but ut lust he found it so good, that in three days the scanty Htouk wus nearly finished. Next morning (21st), the people took it into their beudti to come in such numbers, that Mr. Belzoni could not employ them all, as the work was directed only to one poiut. There was warm debating on the subject : but, as he told tiiem he would not spend one furtbiii^ more than he hud promised from the first, they agreed at last that the pay should bu di- vided amongst them all ; and thus, instead of forty men, he had eighty for the some price, which was less thuu sixpence a day. The anxiety to see the inside of the temple, and to plimder all that it might contain, brought the chiefs now on l)oard very early in the morning. They soon gave Mr. Bel- zoni to understand plainly, that all that was there was their pjroperty ; and that the treasure should be for themselves. JBye^ the savages began to lay their account in the division of the spoil. He assiurod them that he expected to find hj- thing bift stones, and waited no treasure. They still per- sisted, that, if he took away the stones, the treasure was in them ; apd, if he could make a drawing, or likeness of them, he could extract the treasure from them also, without their perceiving it. Some proposed, that, if there were uny fi- gure discovered, it should be broken before it was curried away. In the course of the evening, two of the men left the work, and went down the Nile to the boat. Fimling Mrs. Bel/oui on board, with only a little girl from the village, thi;y were rather impertinent to her. and attem|)t(Hl to go on board in spite of all she could say to them, intending to rob the boat. )')< ■]\ IN KOYPT AND NUBIA. ^l ^ lor seve- a libntioii 3 CachetVoi' DacbelV did tuslu it did but at last ty stock vias tlieir head* d not employ (oiut. There t»e told them had vromiscd should h« di- t'orty men, he than sixpence emple, a»«i *P e chiel's uow on gave Mr. Bel- there was their for themselves, iu the division ^ed to find . - They still per- Lreasure was in ikenessofthem, o, without theiv ■0 were any ii- o it was carried leu left the work, ins Mrs. Bel«)»i illage, they were o tjo on board in g to rob the boat. At Inst ilie presented u pistol at them, oo which they inuno' diateiy retired, and ran up the hill. She lollowoil, but they mixed with a number of their fellow savages, and it wtis im- possible to find them out; for they were all like so many, lamps of chocolate Seated ou the sand at work, and not to be distinguished the one from the other. A.t night, ou p^y- . ing the men, the CacheiTs brother said, the money must Im counted all in one heap, before it was divided among the peo- ple. The interpreter, who was also treasurer, accordingly counted the money on a piece of a ragged shawl, which ho, had no sooner done, than the CaGheft''s brother threw himself, on it, and seized every piastre. The men looked at .each other, but no one dared to say a word obout it { and bq to^k , it all away with lum. . < > Mr. Belzomi supposed that no one would oorae to work next morning, but in this he was mistaken. It was evident . that this work would employ him longer than he could remain in tliat country, as the period he had meant to dedicate to; it was already elapsed. Mr. Belzoni also began to experience the want of that very article which, a few days before, was so despised and unknown ; and now he absolutely could not proceed witliout it. It was money, which now had shown its usual power among mankind, of exciting avarice, and oi' which those wild people soon became very fond. Mr. Bel- zoni began to perceive it required a longer time to reach the door than he could stay, and more money than he could then afford. He had by this tlniQ removed so much sand, as to uncover twenty feet in the front of the temple. The colossal statues above the door were qompletely exposedi;, and ona of the great colossi sitting before the temple, on the north side, which was buried in the sand, appeaired with bin face and shoulders like his companion on the south. Having ob- tained a promise from the Cacheff, that he would not let any touch the place till his return, which would be iu a few months^ he contented himself with putting a mark where the sand was before he commcuccd the operation ^ and after taking a Ik ,1 . 983 nBLZONl'S TRAVBLS drawing of the exterior of the temple, quitted it, with a firm resolution of returning to accomplish its opening. After mok- ing some trifling presents to the GuchefT, they set off the same evening. They descended the Nile rapidly, as the current was very strong. Every soldier here has a servant, to tako core of his camel, horses, or asses, if he have any. Thus, when a body of five thousand men marches against an enemy, there are always at least six thousand people more to encumber it, and eat up the provision : for not only every common sol- dier has a tnan, but every officer has two or three ; and those of the higher rank, as Beys, Caoheft's, t'c. have ten or more. The next day, in the evening, they arrived at Ibrim, and early on the 24th at Dier. •' ' On the 27th, they came to the Sheila!, or first cataract. A soldier of Derow, who brought some letters, set off imme- diately, and Mr. Belzoni never saw him aAerwards. Tak- ing particular notice of a small obelisk which was lying be- fore the propylaeon, ani-.;;i' -i:.,;( .■,....;.';....,■ ..i !..i! ; ■■■ On Mr. Belzoni's return to Assouan, no boat had arrived, and he became impatient, as he wished to reach Thebes. An Arab came to the Aga, and whispered in his ear, as if he bad something of great importance to communicate. The Aga rose, though his dinner was not finished, and went away with the air of a man of great business. Half an hour after he re- turned, accompanied by two other persons of distinction, and the Arab who came before. They all seated themselves round Mr. Belzoui, and after introducing the affair with a de- gree of caution, he was asked whether he wished to purchase a large piece of diamond. He said, that if tlie ar- ticle were good, he would piirchase it, if they could agree ; but it was necessary that he should see it. The Aga said the piece had been found by one of the natives of that place ; and, as he was not iu want of money, it had been preserved in the family for many years. The original proprietor being now dead, his successors wished to dispose of it. Mr. Bel- zoni requested to see it ; so retiring some distance out of the way of the people, the man with great solemnity took a small wooden box from a pocket in his leathern belt. In tliis was a paper, which he unfolded ; after that, two or three others, till at last he opened his sanctum sanctorum. Mr. Belzoni took its contents in his hands with no small expectation : but saw it was only part of the stopple of a common glass cruet, of the size of a hazeUnut, with two or three little gilt flowers vn it. Observing by his motions the disappointment strongly l^'f . ■ .■ \. w l,l»l ''\! f C H' fl84 RCLEONl'S TRAVRLt marke5. 4 F t f ' .1 *,■"* 111! d8(> HUl.ZONl'S TUAVULS It -J for money on the Soraf, or banker, of Kenneh. He then finished his business there, and proceeded to Luxor, where he found the boat returned from Assouan, to take the colossal bust on board : but he was soon informed by tho proprietor, that it was loaded with dates, and that he was come himself from Esne, to return the money he had paid as earnest ; for they could not think of taking that large stone into tho boat, as it would crush it to pieces. After various impediments, on tho 17th of November the head of the younger Memnon was actually embarked. It was no easy undertaking to put a piece of granite, of such bulk and weight, on board a boat, that, if it received the weight on one side, would immediately upset ; and this was to be done without the smallest mechanical contrivance, even a single tackle, and only with four poles and ropes ; the water was about eighteen feet below the bank where the head was to descend. The causeway was gradually sloped to the edge of the water close to the boat, and with the four poles formed a bridge from the bank into the centre of the boat, so that when the weight bore upon the bridge, it pressed only on the boat. On the opposite side of the boat Mr. Bel- zoni directed them to put some mats well filled with straw. In the ground behind the colossus a piece of a palm-tree was firmly planted, round which a rope was twisted, and then fastened to its car, to let it descend gradually. A lever was placed on each side, and at the same time that men in the boat were pulling, others were slackening the ropes, and others shifting the rollers as the colossus advanced. Thus it de- scended gradiutlly from the main land to the causeway, when it sunk a good deal, as the causeway was made of fresh eartli. However, it went smoothly on board. The Arabs, who were unanimously of opinion that it would go to the bottom of the river, or crush the boat, were all attention, as if anxious to know the result, as well as to learn how the operation was to be performed ; and when the owner of the boat, who consi- dered it as consigned to perdition, witnessed the success, aud IN EGYPT AND NUUlA. 687 He then ixor, where 5 tbe colossal 3 proprietor, jome bimself as earnest; tone into ttio Tovember the smbarked. Tt •anite, of such t received the ; and this was itrivance, even )pes ; the water re the head was ,pedtotheedge lur poles formed [le boat, so that pressed only on boat Mr. Bel- illed with straw, of a palm-tree as twisted, and idually. A lever le that men \a the ropes, and others a. Thus it de- causeway, when Lde of fresh earth. Arabs, who were |tbe bottom of the as if anxious to operation v;as to boat, who consi- id the success, auil saw the huge piece of stone, as he called it, safely on board, he squeezed Mr. Belzoni by the hand, and exclaimed, they had reason to be thankful. The boat then crossed the water to Luxor, for what was to be taken in there, which was done in three days, and on the 21st they left Thebes to return to Cairo, which they reached on the 15th of December, having been twenty-four days from Thebes. From thence they pro- ceeded to Alexandria, which they reached on the l4th of Ja- nuary, 1817, and lodged it in the Bashaw's magazine ; he then returned to the capital ; and accompanied by Mr. Beechy, immediately proceeded up the Nile, with the determination, if possible, to accomplish the opening of the great temple of Ipsambul. At Philae the party was reinforced by Captains Irby «nd Mangles of the Royal Navy. Having conciliated the two Cacheifs by suitable presents, Mr. Belzoni agreed to give the workmen (eighty in number,) three hundred piastres for removing the aand as low down as the entrance : at first they seemed to set about the task like men who were determined to finish the job ; but at the end of the third day they all grew tired, and under the pretext tHUt the Rhamadan was to commence on the next day, they left Mr. Belzoni, with the temple, the sand and the treasure, and contented themselves with keeping the three hundred piastres. Being convinced, that, if the temple was to be opened at all, it must be by their own exertions ; assisted by the crew of the boat, they set to work, and, by dint of perseverance and hard labour, for about eighteen days, they arrived at the door- way of the temple, which Mr. Belzoni considers as the finest and most extensive excavation in Nubia, and one that can stand a competition with any in Egypt, except the tomb newly discovered in Beban el Molook. The temple of Ip- sambul has, in all probability, been covered with sand two thousand years, or more. The following is the description given of it. From what they could perceive at the first view, it was evidently a very large place ; but their astonishment increased, 4 F 2 'Mil I u 588 JiELZONl'S TRAVELS 1 '■m ' m 1 is 1 when they found it to be one of the most magnificent of tem- ples, enriched with beautiful intaglios, paintings, colossal fi- gures, &c. They entered at first into a large pronaos, fifty- s«ven foet long and fifty -two wide, supported by two rows of sciuare pillars, in a line from the front door to the door of the sekos. Each pillar had a figure, finely executed, und very little injured by time. The tops of their turbans readied the ceiling, about thirty feet high : the pillars were five feet and a half square. Both these aud the walls were covered with beautiful hieroglyphics, the style of which is somewhat superior, or at least bolder, than that of any others in E^ypt, not only in workmanship, but also in the subjects. They exhibited battles, stormings of castles, triumphs over the Ethiopians, sacrifices, &c. In some places were to be seen the same hero as at Mcdinet Aboo, but in a different posture. Some of the columns were much injured by the close and heated atmosphere, the temperature of which was so hot, that the thermometer must have risen to above a hundred und thirty degrees. The second hull was about twenty-two feet high, thirty-seven wide, and twenty-five aud a half long. It contained four pillars about four feet square ; au4 the walls of this also were covered with line hieroglj'phics in pretty good preservation. Beyond this was a shorter chamber, thirty-seven feet wide, in which is the entrance into the sanctuary. At each end of the chamber was a door, leading into smaller chambers in the same direction with the sanctuary, each eight feet by seven. The sanctuary was twenty-three feet and a half long. It contained a pedestal in the centre, and at the end four colossal sitting figures, the heads of which were in good preservation, not having been injured by violence. On the right side of the great hall, entering into the temple, were two doors, at a short distance from each other, which led into two long separate rooms, the first thirty-eight feet ten inches in length, and eleven feet five inches wide , tLc other forty-eight feet se- ven inches, by thirteen feet three. At the end of the first IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 569 eiil of tom- , colossal 11- onaos, fifly- )y two rows 3 the door of cecuted, und ■bans readied vere five feet were covered 1 is somewhat [lers ill Egypt, bjects. They ftphs over the s were to be in a difi'erent , injured by the •e of which was ien to above a hall was ahout twenty-five and ,ur feet square; ne hierogljTWcs vas a shorter is the entrance iber wau a door, irection with the 5 sanctuary was lined a pedestal sitting figures, ition, not having [de of the great oors, at a short [wo long separate ■s in length, ami ^rtv-eight feet sc- end of the first were several unfinished hieroglyphics, of which some, though merely sketched, gave fine ideas of their manner of drawing. At the lateral corners of the entrance into the second cham- ber from the great hall was a door, each of which led into a small chamber twenty-two feet six inches long,- and ten feet wide. Each of these rooms had two doors leading into two other chambers, forty-three feet in length, and ten feet eleven inches wide. There were two benches in them, apparently to sit on. The most remarkable subjects in the temple were,lst, a group of captive Ethiopians, in the western corner of the great hall : 3nd, an hero killing a man with his spear, ano- ther lying slain under his feet, on the same western wall : 3rd, the storming of a castle, in the western corner from the front door. The outside of the temple also was magnificent. It was a hundred and seventeen feet wide, and eighty-six feet high ; the height from the top of the cornice to the top of the door being sixty-six feet six inches, and the height of the door twenty feet. There were four enormous sitting colossi, the largest in Egypt or Nubia, except the great sphinx at the pyramids, to which they approach in the proportion of near two-thirds. From the shoulder to the elbow they measured fifteen feet six inches ; the ears three feet six inches ; the face seven feet ; the beard five feet six inches ; across the shoul- ders twenty-five feet four inches ; their height was about fifty-one feet, not including the caps, which are about four- teen feet. There are only two of these colossi in sight, one being still buried under the sand, and the other, near the door, is half fallen down, and buried also. On the top of the door was a colossal figure of Osiris twenty feet high, with two colassul hieroglyphic figures, one en each side, looking towards it. On the tup of the temple was a cornice with hieroglyphics, u torus and frize under it. The cornice six foet wide, the iVizo four foet. Above the cornice was a row of sitting monkeys oiglit foet high, and six across the shoul- ders, twenty-one iu number. The temple was nearly two- M I! . ■, 1»| I i. i I 500 BULZONl'Si TRAVRLS 1' ■■'^i'lWi''' pi V Mi thirds burled under the sand, of which they removed thirty- one feet before they came to the upper part of the door. Mr. Belzoni observed that the heat on first entering the temple was so great that they could scarcely bear it, and the perspiration from their hands was so copious as to render the paper by its dripping unlit for use. On the first opening that was made by the removal of the sand, the only living object that presented itself was a toad of prodigious size. The in- animate objects within were the figures of two lions with hawks' heads, as large as life, and a small sitting human figure. Mr. Belzoni and his party now returned to Thebes, and opened three new tombs, but in none of them did there ap- pear any thing to prove that they had been intended for the sepulchre of the kings of Egypt. Some were only passages and staircases leading to painted rooms. ■ In one of these was a sarcophagus of granite with two. mummies in it, covered with hieroglyphics in an unfinished state, and a statue stand- ing erect, six feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of sycamore. There were besides many little images of wood well carved, some with the head of a lion, others of a fox, and others of a monkey. In another tomb were mummies in their cases lying flat on the ground ; the bodies were covered with linen of different degrees of fineness, and, as Mr. Bel- zoni thinks, wrapped round f hem at different and distant pe- riods of time : so careful were the ancient Egyptians in their attentions to the dead ! Some of the tombs had paintings beautifully executed, otliers were quiie plain. In one cham- ber were discovered two naked bodies without either wrap- pers or case ; they were females, with hair of considerable length, and well preserved. In some of the chambers the mummies of cows, sheep, monkeys, crocodiles, bats, and other animals, were intermixed with human bodi«s ; and one tomb was filled with nothing but cats, carefully folded in red and white linen, the head covered by a mask repre- senting the cat, and made of the same linen. ■\\ IN E(iYl'r AND NUHIA. ftOl 1 tWrty- oor. sring the , andtVie . endet tbe ening that ing object . The in- Uons with ing humah 'hebes, and id there ap- aded for the n\y passages ,„e of these in it, covered statue stand- Uy cut out of ages of wood ers of a fox, e mummies in were covered ^ as Mr. Bel- [nd distant pe- rptians in their bad paintings In one cbam- ^t either wrap- |f considerable , chambers the ^iles, bats, and in bodies; and arefuUy folded a mask reprc- Thc Egyptians appear to have been acquainted with linen manufactures to a perfection equal to the English ; for, in many of their figures, their garments were quite transparent ; and among the folding of the mummies, some cloth quite as fine as common muslin, very strong, and of an equal tex* ture. They had the art of tanning leather, with which they made shoes, some of which were found of various shapes. They had also the art of stainhig the leather with various co- lours, and knew the mode of embossing on it, for they found leather with figures impressed on it, quite elevated. It ap- pears to have been done with a hot iron while the leather was damp. They also fabricated a sort of coarse glass, with which they made beads and other ornaments. Besides enamelling, the art of gilding was in great per- fection among them, as they found several ornaments of this kind.- They knew how to cast copper as well as to form it into sheets, and had a metallic composition not unlike lead, rather softer, but of great tenacity, much like the lead which is on paper in the tea-chests from China, but much thicker. They found some pieces of it covered on both sides with a thin coat of another metal, whichmight be taken for silver. , . Sudicient proofs were also procured of the skill of the an- cients in varnishing on baked clay, and that this art was car- ried to great perfection : in their colours, especially, the red, blue, green, and yellow, still remain, after so many ages, as brilliant and as beautiful as when first laid on. The inconvenience, and the hazard of visiting these sepul- chres, can only be duly appreciated by those who have made the experiment ; and nothing but an extraordinary degree of enthusiasm for researches of this kind could have supported Mr. Belzoni in the numerous descents which he made into the mummy pits of Egypt, and through the long subterrane- ous passages, particularly incop.yenient for a man of his size. Of some of these tombs he says many persons could not withstand the suflbcating air, which often causes fainting. A V •» .*^^ w i i' 50*2 HRI-ZONIS TRAVELS vast quantity of dnst ri.scs, so fine that it enters the throat and nostrils, and chokes the nose and mouth to such a de- gi-ee, that it requires great power of lungs to resist it and the strong effluvia of the mummies. This is not all ; the en- try or passage where the bodies are is roughly cut in the rocks, and the falling of the sand from the upper part or ceiling of the passage causes it to be nearly filled up. In some places there b not more than the vacancy of a foot left, which you must contrive to pass through in a creeping posture like a snail, on pointed and keen stones, that cut like glass. After getting through these passages, some of them two or three hundred yards long, there is generally a commodious place, perhaps high enough to sit. But what a place of rest ! surrounded by bodies, by heaps of mummies in all di- rections ; which, previous to the beholder being accustomed to the sight, impress with horror. The blackness of the wall, the faint light given by the candles or torches for want of aii> the different objects that surround him, seeming to con- verse with each other, and the Arabs with the candles or torches in their hands, naked and covered with dust, them- selves resembling living mummies, absolutely formed a scene that cannot be described. In such a situation Mr. Belzoni observes, he found himself several times, and often returned exhausted and fainting, till at last he became inured to it, and indifferent to what he suffered, except from the dust, which never failed to choke his throat and nose ; and though, fortunately, he was destitute of the sense of smelling, he could taste that the mummies were rather unpleasant to swal- low. After the exertion of entering into such a place, through a passage of fifty, a hundred, three hundred, or per- haps six hundred yards, nearly overcome, he sought a rest- ing-place, found one, and contrived to sit ; but when h's weight bore on tha body of an Egyptian, it crushed it like a band-box. He naturally had recourse to his hands to sustain his weight, but they found no better support ; so that he sank altogether among the broken mummies, with a crash of bones. s, , IN BOTPT AND NUBIA. 908 e throiil \i it and , the cn- il in tlic T part or L up. In . foot left, [ig posture like glass. aem two or ommodious a place of ies in all di- accustomed 5 of the wall. . vvant of arfV ^ing to con- ^e candles or 1 dust, them- armedascene rt Mr. Belzoni ,ften returned inured to it, from the dust, . and though, .f smelling, ^^ [easanttoswal- such a place, indred,orper- sought a rest- but when h.s crushed it like ,ands to sustnm so that he sank crash of hones, rags, and wooden cases, which raised such a dust as kept him motionless for a quarter of an hour, waiting till it sub- sided again. He could not move from the place, however, without increasing it, and every step he took he crushed a mummy in some part or other. Once he was conducted from such a place to another resembling it, f irough a pas- sage of about twenty feet in length, and no wider than that a body could be forced through. It was choked with mum- mies, and he could not pass without putting his face in contact with that of some decayed Egyptian ; but as the pas- sage inclined downwards, his own weight helped him on : however, he could not avoid being covered with bones, legs, arms, and heads rolling from above. Thus he proceeded from one cave to another, all full of mummies piled up in various ways, some standing, some lying, and some on their heads. The purpose of bis researches was to rob the Egyp- tians of their papyri ; of which he found a few hidden in their breasts, under their arms, in the space above the knees, or on the legs, and covered by the numerous folds of cloth, that envelop the mummy. . . . The tombs in the Beban el Molook were more capacious. The first that was opened had a staircase eight feet wide and ten feet high, at the foot of which were four mummies in their cases, flat on the ground, with their heads towards thd stairs ; further on wero four more in the same direction ; one of them had a covering thrown over it exactly like the pall on the coffins of the present day. Mr. Belzoni says, 1 went through the operation of exa- mining all these mummies one by one. They were much alike n their foldings, except that which had the painted linen over it. Among the others he found one, that had new linen, apparently, put over the old rags; which proves that the Egyptians took great care of their dead, even for many years after their decease. That which was disti?)guislied from all the T€P<^ hf ohsvT\et\, was dressed in finer liuen, and morfe neatly wrapped up. It had garland,? of flowers and leaves, P. V. 2h. ' i G m <,fi M ■ifi 11 r^' 5D4 DBLZONl'li TRAl^UliB and ou the side over the heart, Mr. Belzoni says, tliat he found a plate of metal toft like lead, covered AyitL another metal, not uuUko silver leaf. It bad the eyes of a cow, which so often represents Isis, engraved on it ; and in the centre of the breast was another plate, with the winged globe. Both plates were nearly six inches long. On unfolding the linen, they still found it very fine, which was not the case with the other mummies ; for, after three or four foldings, it was generally of a coarser kind. At last they came to the body, of which nothing was to be seen but the bones, which had as- sumed a yellow tint. The case was in part painted : but the linen cloth covering it fell to pieces as soon us it was touched. On the 16th, Mr. Belzoni recommenced the excavations in the valley of Beban el Molook, and pointed out th^ fortunate spot which paid him for all the trouble of his reseurclu.'s. He may call this, he adds, a fortunate doy, one of the best per- haps of his life ; from the pleasure it aQ'orded him of present- ing to the world, a new and perfect monument of Egyptian antiquity, which can be recorded as superior to any other in point of grandeur, style and preservation, appearing as if just finished on the day they entered it ; and what be found in it, he adds, will shew its great superiority to all others. Certain indications had convinced him of the existence of a large and unopened sepulchre. Imprewed with this idea he caused the earth to be dug away to the depth of eighteen feet, when the entrance made its appearance. The passage, however, was choked up with large stones, which were with difficulty removed. A long corridor, with a painted ceiling, led to a staircase twenty-three feet long, and nearly nine feet wide. At the bottom was a door twelve feet high ; it opened into a second corridor of the same width, thirty-seven feet long, the sides and ceiling finely sculptured and painted. The more he saw, he says, the more he was eager to see. His progress, however, was interrupted at the end of this second corridor by a pit thirty feet deep and twelve wide. Beyond this he perceived a small aperture of about two feet ■\\ IN BOYPT AND NUBIA. fl96 ed ^it'u yen of a I ; and in ke vfiiiged unfolding ►t tbe case foldings, it to the body, jicli iiad as- ad : but tbe fas touched. cavations in .bq fortunate arclwjs. He Ibe best per- m of present- of Egyptian any other in ippearing as if hat be found to all others, existence of a i kth this idea ho |th of eighteen The passage, .;hich were with I painted ceiling, and nearly nine Ive feet high; it [dth, thirty-seven ired and painted. [as eager to see. . the end of this [nd twelve wide. of about two feet gqiiafe in the wall, >uv o^/ whicti hung a rope reaching probably to the bottom of the well ; another rope fastened to a beam of wood stretching across the passage on this o. - ^ ^\ab hung into the well. One of these ropes was apparently for the purpose of descending on one side of the well and the other for that of ascending on the opposite side. Both the wood and the rope crumbled to dust on being touched. By means of two beams Mr. Belzoni contrived to cross the pit or well, and to force a larger opening in the wall, beyond which was discovered a third corridor of the same dimensions as the two former. Those parts of the wood and rope which were on the further side of this wall did not fall to dust, but were in a tolerably good state of preservation, owing, as he supposed, to the dryness of the air in these more distant apartments. The sepulchre was found to open into a number of cham* hers of different dimensions, with corridors and staircases. Of the chambers, the first was a beautiful hall, twenty-sevett feet six inches by twenty-five feet ten inches, in which werA four pillars each three feet square. Mr Belzoni says, at tbe end of this room, which he called the entrance-hall, and of*'* posite the aperture, wss a large door, from which three steps led down into a chamber with two pillars, which was twenty eight feet two inches by twenty-five feet six inches. The pillars are three feet ten inches square. He gave it the name of the drawing room ; for it is covered with figures, which; though only outlined, are so fine and perfect, that one would think they had been drawn only the day before. Re- turning into the entrance-hall, they saw on the left of the aperture a large staircase, which descended into a corridor. It is thirteen feet four inches long, seven and a half wide, antl has eighteen steps. At the bottom they entered a beautiful corridor, thirty-six feet six inches by six feet eleven inches. They perceived, that the paintings became more perft ^t a^ they advanced farther into the interior. They retained thfeir gloss, or a kind of varnish over the colours, which hud a 4 G 2 n II fi06 BBIiXONl'S TRAVB1.8 beautiful effect. The f^res are faulted on a white ground. At the end of this corridor, they iescended ten steps, which be called the small stiiirs, into another, seventeen feet two in- ches by ten feet five inches. From this they entered a small chamber, twenty feet tour inches by thirteen feet eight in- ches, to wliich he gave the name of the Room of Bouutius ; for it was adorned with the most beautiful figures in basso re- lievo, like all tho rest, and painted. When standing in the centre of this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by au assembly of Etryptian gods and goddesses. Proceeding further, they entered a large hall, twenty-seven feet nine inches, by twenty-six feet ten inches. In this hall aro two rows of square pillars, three on each side of the entrance, forming a line with the corridors. At each side of this hall was a small chamber: that on the right is ten feet five inches by eight feet eight inches: that on the left, ten feet live Inches by eight feet nine inches and a half. This hall he termed the Hall of Pdiars; the little room on the right, Isis' Room, as in it a large cow is painted ; that on the left, the Room of Mysteries, from the mysterious figures it ex- hibits. At the end of this hall they entered a large saloon, with an arched roof or ceiling, wliich is separated from the Hall of Pillars only by a step ; so that the two may be reckoned one. The saloon is thirty-one feet ten inches by twenty-seven feet. On the right of the saloon is a small chamber without any thing in it, roughly cut, as if unfinished,, and without painting: on the left they entered a chamber with two square pillars, twenty-five feet eight inches by twenty-two feet ten inches. This he called the sideboard room, as it had a projection of three feet in form of a side- board all round, which wus perhaps intended to contain the articles necessary for the funeral ceremony. The pillars are three feet four inches square, and the whole beautifully painted as the rest. At the same end of the room, and facing the Hall of Pillars, they entered by a large door into another chamber with four pillars, one of which is fallen ?.'■ ground. )g, which )t two iu- itl a Rmall eight iu- BuuuiiuB ; i basso r*j- [iiig in the idetl l>y tt» Proceeding ; I feet nine ^ aaU are two \e entrance, of this hall t ftve inches en feet five This hall he )n the right, ^t on the left, figures it ex- large saloon, Aed from the two may ^ ten inches by lon is a sma^' if unfinished,, •ed a chamber ■ht inches by [the sideboard form of a side- to contain the [Fhe pillars are |ole beautifully ,om, and facing irge door into which is fallen IN BOYPT AND NUBIA. 597 down. This chamber U forty- throe feet four inches by seventeen feet six inches ; the pillars three feet seven inches square. It is covered w itii white plaster, where the rock (lid not cut smoothly, but there is no painting on it. He named it the Bull's, or A.pis' Room, as tliey found the carcase of a bull in it, embalmed with asphaltum ; and also, scattered in various places, an immense quantity of small wooden figures of mummies six or eight inches long, and covered with asphaltum to preserve them. There were some other figures of fine earth baked, coloured blue and strongly varnished. On each side of the two little rooms were some wooden statues standing erect, four feet high, with a circular hollow inside, us if to contain a roll of papyrus. There were likewise fragments of other statues of wood and of composition. The description of what was found in the centre of the saloon, merits the> most particular attention, not having its equal in the world, and being such as they had no idea could exist. It is, says Mr. Belzoni, a sarcophagus of the finest oriental alabaster, nine feet five inches long, and three feet seven inches wide. Its thickness is only two inches ; and it is transparent when a light is placed inside of it. It is minutely sculptured within and without with several hundred figures, which do not exceed two inches in height, and repre- sent, as ho supposes, the whole of the funeral procession and ceremonies relating to the deceased, united with several emblems, &c. Nothing can give an adequate idea of this beautiful and invaluable piece of antiquity, and he says, that nothing has been broupear8 to have been taken to have these accu- rate ; as several sketches were observed on the walls in red Knes, which hud afterwards been traced with corrections in black ; the stone was then cut away from the side of the chamber all round the black lines, leaving the figure raised to the height of half an-inch or more, according to its »W.o. A coat of whitewash was then passed over it, which Mr. Belzonl says is still so beautiful and clear, * that his best and whitest paper appeared yellowish when compared to it. The painter came next and finished the figure in colours, Tvhich after more than 2000 years still retain all their original brilliancy. Among tlie numerous representations of figures io various positions, one group is singularly interesting, as describing the march of a military and triumphal procession vrith three different sets of prisoners, who are evidently Jews, Ethiopians, and Persians. The procession begins with four red men with white kirtles followed by a hawk- headed divinity; these are Egyptians apparently releasad from captivity and returning home under the protection of the national deity. Then follow four white men in stripec and fringed kirtles, with black beards, and with a simpk white fillet round their black huir ; these are obviously Jews and might be taken for the portraits of those, who, at this day, walk the streets of London. After them come three white men with smaller beards and curled whiskers, with double-spreading plumes on their heads, tattoed, and wear- ing robes or mantles spotted like the skins of wild beasts; these are Persians or Chaldeans. Lastly, come four negroes with large circular ear-riugs, and white petticoats supported by a Uilt over the shoulder; these are Ethiopians. The Egyptians appear to have had three different modes of ik IN I.UYI'I' ANU NtniA. auu ig. ll was lurt. ■I wonderfnl inted over, only given, these ttccu- valls in red jrrections in side of the (iguro raised g to its 817.0. t, which Mr. t his best and npared to it. re in colours, i their original ions of fignres interesting, as ihftl procession are evidently cession begins 8(1 by a hawk- rently released the protection I men in stripei. I with a simpU obviously Jews 86, who, at this em come three whiskers, with toed, and wear- of wild beasts; me four negroes icoats supported >pian8. ifferent modes of embalming their dead; Ilerodotiui sayH, thut those mode* were according to the inciinalioni of the friendi of the ducuased, whether they were disposed to be sfiaring io the ovpense, or not. He says, Certain persons were appointed hy the laws to the exercise of thi^ profession. Whon a dead body was brought to them, they exhibited to tlie friends of tiie deceased dillerent models, highly fmished in wood. Tiio most perfect of these, he said, resembles one, whom I do not think it roligious to name on such an occasion ; the second was of less price, and inferior in point of execution ; the other was still more mean. They then enquired after which model the deceased should be represented. When the price was determined, the relations retired, and the umbalraers proceeded in their work. In the most perfect specimens of their art, they extracted the brain through the nostrils, partly with a piece of crooked iron, and partly by the infusion oi^ drug». They then, with an Ethiopian stone, nuido an incision in the side, tlurou^ which they drew out the intestines. These they cleansed thoroughly, washing them with palm-wine, and afterwards covering tliem with pounded aromutics. They then filled the body with powder of pure myrrh, cassia, and other spices, without frankincense. Having sewn up the body, it was covered with nitre for the space of seventy days, which time they were not allowed to exceed. At the end of this period, being first washed, it was closely wrapped in bandages of cotton, dipped in a gum. which the Egyptians used as a glue. It was then returned to the relations, who enclosed the body in a case of wood, made to resemble a human figure, and placed it against the wall in the repository of their dead This was the most costly mode of embalming. For those who wished to be at less expense, the follow> ing method was adopted. They neither drew out the in- testines, nor made an incision in the dead body, but injected a liniment made from the cedar. After taking proper means to secure the injected oil within the body, it was covered 11 f . II * 000 BELZONI'S TRAVBLS with nitrA for the time above specified. On the last day they withdrew, the liquid before introduced, which brotight with it all the intestines. The nitre dried up and hardened the flesh, so that the corpse appeared little but skin and bone. In this state the body was returned, and no further care taken concerning it. There was a third mode of embalming, appropriated to the poor. A particular kind of lotion was made to pass through the body, which was afterwards merely left in nitre for the above space of seventy days, and then returned. Such is the account given by Herodotus. Mr. Belzoni says, that Herodotus was incorrect in some of his accounts of the mummies ; he mentions them as erect: but it is somewhat singular, that in many pits whitsh Mr. Belzoni opened, not a single mummy was standing. On the contrary, he found them lying regularly, in horizontal rows, and some were sunk into a cement, which must have been nearly fluid when the cases were placed on it. .The lower classes were not buried in cases : they were dried up, as it appears, after the regular preparation of the seventy days. Mummies of this sort were, in the proportion of about ten to one of the better class, as near as he could calculate by the quantity he saw of both; and it appeared, that after the operation of the nitre, adopted by the mummy- makers, these bodies may have been dried in the sun. Among these tombs they saw some which contained the mummies of animals intermixed with human bodies. There were bulls, cows, sheep, monkeys, foxes, cats, crocodiles, fishes, and birds. Some of the mummies have garlands of flowers, and leaves of the acacia, or sunt tree, over their heads and breasts. This tree is often seen on the banks of the Nile, above Thebes, and particularly in Nubia. The flower, when fresh, is yellow, and of a very hard substance, appearing as if artificial. The leaves, also, are very strong, and though dried and turned brown, they still retain their firmness. In the mside of these mummies are found lumps 'i! ■li uue of ground. The whole island, which is nut more thun a thouKund foot in length, and less than five hundred in breadth, is richly covered witli ruins ; and being detached from th(! otlier barren islands which surround it at sumo dis- tance, bus u very superb appearance. In a valley to the westward of Beban el Mulook Mr. Bel/.oni found that the Egyptians had a particular manner uf forming the entrance into their tombs, which gave him many leading ideas to the discovery of them. Besides, the suppo- sition that many of these tombs must have b«en buried under the stones nnd rubbish, which continually full from the moun- tains, the great quantity of materials cut out of the tomb ac- cumulated in considt -ruble heaps in diflerent parts in the val- ley, might give various sus-gestions of the spots where the entrance to the tombs was to befouul, as is justly observed by Mr. Hamilton. He set men to work near n hundred yards from the tomb which he discovered the year before ; and when they had got a little below the surface, they came to some large stones, which had evidently been put there by those who closed the tomb. Having removed these stones, he perceived the rock had been cut on both sides, and found a passage leading down- wards. He could proceed no farther that day, as the men were much fatigued, and he had more than four miles to re- turn to Thebes. The next day they resumed their labour, and in a few hours came to a well-built wall of stones of various sizes. The following day he caused a lorge pole to be brought, and by means of another small piece of palm-tree laid across the entrance, he made a machine not unlike a battering-ram. The walls resisted the blows of the Arabs for some time, but they contrived to make a breach at last, and in this way the opening was enlarged. Mr. Belzoni and his party immedi- ately entered, and found themselves on a staircase, eightfeet wide and ten feet high, at the bottom of which were four mummies, in their cases, lying flat on the ground, with their 412 ' ti ) I 1 012 BltLJUNr^ TRAVULS .(.1 J headi toward tho ouUUle. Farther on wore four more lying 'n the ■ume direction. Tlie caHeH were all painted, and one had a large covering thrown over it, exactly like the pall upon the coflins of the present day. He went through the operation of examining all these naummies one by one. They were much alike in their fold- ings, except that which had the painted linen over it. Among the others he found one, that had new linen appa- rently, put over the old rags ; which proves, that the Egyptians took great care of their dead, even for many years after their decease. That which was distinguished from all the rest, was dressed in finer linen, and more neatly wrapped up. It had garlands of flowers and leaves, and on the side over tho heart was a plate of metal, soft like lead, covered with another metal, not unlike silver leaf. It had the eyes of a cow, which so often represents Isis, engraved on It ; and in the centre of the breast was another plate, with the winged globe. Both plates were nearly six inches long. On unfolding the linen, they found it very fine, which was not the case with the other mummies ; for, after three or four foldings, it waa generally of u coarser kiud. At last came the body, of which nothing was to be seen but the bones, which had assumed a yellow tint. The case was in part painted ; but the linen cloth covering it fell to pieces as soon as it was touched, owing to the paint that was on it, which consisted of various devices and flowers. The cases were sunk four inches into the cement already men- tioned. Some of the painting on the inside of the cases ap- ])eared quite fresh, as if recently done ; and there was gene- rally a coat of varnish. For what purpose this tomb might have been intended, cannot be said, perhaps it was origi- nally designed for one of the royal blood. It appeared by the entrance to have been commenced on a scale similar to those of the kings; though it seems to have been finished for a more humble family. The result of the researches gave all the satisfaction dc- ii IN UOYPT AND NUBIA. «1» lore lying Biid one Uie paU tU theie Iheir fold- in over it. inen appa- , that the I for many stingu'whed more neatly ives, andou )ft like lead, eaf. It l»ad is, engraved jotber plate, •ly six inches it >ery fine, ;9-, for, after coarser kiud. to be seen but The case was fell to pieces that was on owers. The already men- the cases ap- ere wasgene- iHtoinb might it was origi- bpeared by the liinilar to those Ifinished for a Ltisfaction de- aired, offlnding mummies in oases, in their original petition : but this wuM not the principal object } for, as he was near tlio place whore the kings of Egypt were buried, he thought he might have a chance of discovering some of their relics. The sacred valley, named Beban el Malook, begins at Qournou, runn towards the south-west, and gradually turns due south. It contains the celebrated tombs of the kings of Egypt, and divides itself into two different branches, one of which runs two miles farther to the westwm-d, making T.ve miles from the Nile to the extremity. The other, which ron- tains most of the tombs, is separated from Gouruou only by a high chain of rocks, which can be crossed from 'I tiebes ill less than an hour. The same rocks surround the sacred ground, which can be visited only by a single natural en- trance, that is formed like a gateway, or by the '^r^.^. gy paths, across the mountains. The tombs are all cu. out of the solid rock, which is of calcareous stone, as white as it is possible for a stone to be. They consist in general of a long square passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery at each side of it, and other chambers. A Wane- ing farther they came to wider apartments, and other pas- sages and stairs, and at last into a large ball, where the great sarcophagus lay, which contained the remains of the kings. Some of these tombs are quite open, and others in- cumbered with rubbish at the entrance. Nine or ten may be reckoned of a superior class, and five or I' of a lower or- der. Strabo may have counted eighteen, as may be done to this day, including some of an inferior class, which cannot be esteemed as tombs of the kings -u Egypt from any other circumstance, that that of havinfy L>een placed in this valley. Mr. Belzoni says in his opinion the tombs in the valley of Beban el Malook were erected subsequently to those in Guurnou ; for he could scarcely find a spot in the latter place adapted to the excavation of another of the grest tombs, and it may be supposed, that when all the best spots for large tombs in Gournou had been occupied, the Egyp- v: 1 \A i *(l!l.i: 614 delzom's travels tidns went over the rocks to seek another situation in which to deposit their kings. Certain it is, that the tomhs in tlie valley of Beban el Malook are in far better condition than those at Goumoo. On the 11th of October, they went to see the tombs in Gournou, and the temple in the valley behind Memnonium. A tomb discovered the day before was opened, so that they might enter it. On this they took the road over the rocks immediately, and arrived in less than three quarters of an hour. Having proceeded through a passage thirty. two feet long, and eight feet wide, they descended a staircase twen- ty-eight feet, aMd reached a tolerably large and well-])ainted room. They found a sarcophagus of granite, with two mummies in it, and in a corner a statue standing erect, six feet six inches high, and beautifully cut out of sycamore- wood : it is nearly perfect except the nose. They found also a number of little images of wood, well carved, repre- senting symbolical figures. Some had a lion's head, others a fox's, others a monkey's. One had a land-tortoise instead of a head. They found a calf with the head of a hippopota- mus. At each side of this chamber is a smaller one, eii>ht .feet wide, and seven feet long ; and at the end ol'it is ano- ther chamber, ten feet long by seven wide. In the chamber on the right hand they found another statue like the first, but not perfect. No doubt they had been placed one on eacli side of the sarcophagus, holding a lamp or some offering in their hands, one hand being stretched out in the proper pos- ture to hold something, and the other hanging down. The sarcophagus was covered with hieroglyphics merely painted, or outlined : it faces south-east by east. On the 13th of October they caused some spots of ground to be dug at Gournou, and they succeeded in openln;,^ a mummy- pit, so that they had the satisfaction of seeing a pit just opened, and receiving clear ideas of the manner in which the mummies are found, though all tombs are not alike. It was a small one, and consisted of two rooinrk finishes at the end of this passage, there is a per- pendicular shaft of fifteen feet, and at each side of the pas- sage, an excavation in the solid rock, one of which, on the right as you enter, runs thirty feet in an upward direction, approaching the end of the lower part of the forced passage. Before them they had a long passage running in an horizon- tal direction toward the centre. They descended the shaft by means of a rope. At tlte bottom Mr. Belzoni perceived ano- ther passage running downward at the same angle of 26** as that above, and toward the north. As his first object was the centre of the pyramid, ho advanced that wt^y, and ascended an inclined passage which brought him to an horizontal one, that led towari-.fc The Jfillowing is a translation of the Inscription by Mr. Salame. lie side, so that '' The Master Mohammed Ahmed, iapicid'e, has opened them ; and the Master Othman attended this (opening) ; and the King Alij Mohammed at first (from the beginning) to the closing up." Mr. Belzoni adds, that the circumstances of the pyramid having been again closed up agrees with \>hat he has said of his finding it so. ltappears,thatinthetime ofHerodotus as little was known of the second pyramid as before the late opening, with this exception, that in his time the second pyramid was nearly in the state in which it v.as left when closed by the builders, who must have covered the entrance with the coating so that it might not be perceived. At the time Mr.Bclzoni was fortunate enough to find his way into it, the entrance was concealed by the rubbish of the coating, which must have been nearly perfect at the time of Herodotus. The circumstance of having chambers and a sarcophagus (which undoubtedly contained the remains of some great personage), so uniform with those in the other pyramid, leaves no question but that they were erected as sepulchres ; and it is a wonder, that any doubt has ever existed, consi- dering wirat could be learned from the first pyramid, which has been so long open. This contains a spacious chamber P. V. 20. 4 K * 'I > 618 ISI^LZONl'S TRAVELS ] i with a sarcophagus ; the passages are of such dimensions as to admit nothiiii^ larger than the sarcophagus ; they had been chtsely shut up by large blocks of granite from within, evidently to prevent the removal of that relic. Ancient au- thors are pretty well agreed in asserting, that these monu- ments were erectid to contain the remains of two brothers, Cheops and Cephren, kings of Egypt. They are surrounded by other smaller {tyramids intermixed with mausoleums on burial-grounds Many mummy pits have been continually found there ; yet with all these proofs, it has been asserted, tliat they were cioeted for many other purposes than the true one, and nearly as absurd as that they served for granaries. Some consider them as built for astronomical purposes, but there is nothing in their construction to favour this sup- |)osition. Others maintain, that they were meant tor the ])erformance of holy ceremonies by the Egyptian priests. Any thing, in short, for the sake of contradiction, or to have something new to say, finds its advocate. If the ancient au- thors had advanced, that they were erected for treasuries, the moderns would have agreed perhaps, more in confor- mity with the truth, that they were made for sepulchres ; and tliey would not have failed to see plainly those circumstances, which clearly prove the facts, and which are not noticed as they ought to be. It will be agreed that the Egyptians, in erecting these enormous masses, did not fail to make their sides due north and south, and consequently, ns they arc square, due east and west. Their inclination too is such as to give light to the north side at the time of the sols- tice. But even all this does not prove in the least, that they were erected for astronomical purposes ; though it is to be observed, that the Egyptians connected astro- nomy with tlieir religious ceremonies, as various /.odiacs were found, not only among the temples, but in their tombs also. By the measurement of the second pyramid it was as follows : IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 619 nsions as they had a within, icient au- se monu- brothers, iri'ounded ukums 00 oiUiuually [1 asserted, lan tl»e true granaries. I purposes, ar this sup- sant ior the ian priests. I, or to have ! ancient au- r treasuries, ie in confor- ikhres ; and cumstances, 3t noticed as .^yptians, in o make their as they are ,n too is such of the sols- ic least, that though it is ccted astro- rious zodiacs n their tombs lid it was as Feet. The basis 684 Aputume or central line down the front, from the top to the basis .... 568 Perpendicular 456 Coating from the top to the place where it ends 140 Mr. Belzoni now again proceeded to Thebes, and on ar*v .4. riving at Siout went to the Bey. He was about a mile out of town, exercising his soldiers and youn^ Mamelukes in gunnery and horsemanship. The cannon exercise was with " balls against the rocks ; and they were better marksmen than he expecteJ to find among soldiers without discipline. The Bey fired himself at the same mark with two balls in one barrel of an English gun, of which some one in Cairo had made him a present. He liked it extremely ; and ob- served,'" These guns may become offensive to their makers some day or other." After the cannon exercise, they be- gan to fire at an earthen pot placed on a kind of pedestal of about six feet high. They commence their course at two hundred feet from it ; ride towards it at full gallop ; at the distance of fifty feet drop the bridle, take their gun, and fire at the pot while at full speed. The horse is so accustomed to this, that, before he reaches the stand on which the pot is, he wheels to the right, to make room for the next in the course. It is a very difficult matter to hit a small pot about a foot high, while the horse is running with all speed. In about two hundred shots only six pots were broken : the fa- vourite TMaraelukc of the Bey, a lad of twelve years old, broke three. He had the best horse belonging to the Bey, and went as near the pot as the length of a gun and a half. Two other Mamelukes broke one each at a good distance, and one was broken by the Bey himself, for which he re- ceived of course great praise from all his subjects. At four o'clock Mr. Belzoni went to his palace. He was sitting on a very high armed chair, a fashion not commuu 4 K 2 l: .* |.l* CriO H^L/ONIS TRAVEL» f '^ among the Turks ; thuu^li he did nut sit like an European, but in n Turkiiih manner, with his legs up. Mere he had an opportunity of being present at a trial upon Hie or death. Tlie case was this : a soldier belonging to the Bey had been found dead upon the road near the village of Acmin, with his throat cut, and several marks of violence u])ou hia body. lie was on his return from Mecca, where he had been on a ])ilgrimage. His camel was found dead near the door of a peasant, and it was supposed that he hud a great deal of money about him. IJe was seen in the house of the peasant, near which the camel was found, in company with seven other naen, among whom was aBedoween. The soldiers of the village, who took the prisoners into custody, asserted, that the prisoners had assisted the Beduween in making his escape ; and the Sheik of the same village affirmed, that one of them said he knew where to find him at any time. Se- veral witnesses were examined, but no one gave any evi- dence that could bring the facts home to the supposed cul- prits. One point, however, was very n?uch against one of them, and this ivas, his countenance did not please the Bey ; for no sooner did the Bey set his eyes on the poor fellow, than he exclaimed, ''Oho! the case is evident I I see plainly who is the murderer : look at that man ; can tl^re be any doubt but it was he committed the crime ? So own at once that you did it, for denial will be useless ; I see it in your fa^e!" Several witnesses came forward to prove, that the peasant, in whose house the soldier was, could have had no- thing to do with it, as he was not in the town at the time. Witnesses in this country are rather more exact in tlieir de- positions tlian those of Europe, for they do not get off so ea- sily. To make them impartial they generally get so severe a bastinado on the soles of their feet, that all the flesh is oil' to the bones, aud they are unable to walk for a long time af- ter. A thousand blows is reckoned a moderate number fur a witness to receive. It was said, afterward, that several of I liiropean, le ha(\ an or death. had been min, with I his body. been on a ; door of a at deal of lie peasant, with seven I soldiers of f, asserted, making his ed, that one time. Se- »e any evi- pposed cul- [oneof them, .he Bey ; for fellow, than I see idainly there be any own at once lee it in your ,ve, that the have had no- at the time, t in their de- get off so ea- get so severe le fleslj is off long time al- te number for hat several of IN BGYPT AND NUBIA. 631 those qupposed to be concerned in the murder had their heads cut off. Mr. Belzoni again commenced bis operations near ThebeVy and having observed, that the part where the sekos and cella must be was not touched, he set the men to work there, and on the second day of his researches came to » large sta- tue, which proved to be the finest of the kind yet found. It is a sitting figure of a man, in all points resembling the great colossus of Memnon. It is nearly ten feet high, and of the most beautiful ^gypti^u workmi^nship. The ston» is gray granite, and iias the peciiliarity of having particles in it of a colour not unlike Uiat of the substance gene- rally known by the name of Dutch metal. Part of its chin and ' ard have been knocked off, but all t))e rest is quite perl t. In the same ground )ie found several lion- headed si ues, like those in Caruak, some utting ^ad some standing. Between two colossal statues and the portico of the temple is an enormous colossus, thrown down and buried, all but the back of its chair, ivhich is broken in two about the middle. It was one of his principal objects to uncover it, but he never had an opportunity. Among the columns of the portico w^re found a great many fragments of colos- sal statues of granite, breccia, and calcareous stones ; and from the great number of fragments of small dimensions, and of standing and sitting lioU'headed statues, these ruins appear to have belonged to the most magnificent temple of any on the west side of Thebes. Mr. Belzoni took many impressions of the principal figures in basso relievo. The wax alone be found would not stand) as tlie climate would not permit it ; hut with wax, resin, and fme dust, he made an excellent composition. The greatest difficulty was to take the impression of the figure without injuring the colours of it. The figures, were as large as life» in all a hundred and eighty-two : those of a snaallcr siste, from one to t,hree feet, could not be Ji^^s thf^n eight hundred. it; Imp I: \h ' h J «' 4 •.! i '>' • 1i i-ii , ^j< im fiBLZONl's TRAVRhM [''■ '' fit 1 '' 9' i^i mm 1- Iff f" M 1 1^ 1 Theliieroglyphios are nearly Ave liuiulred, of wliicli he took a raithful copy, with their colours ; they are of four different sizes, from one to six incites ; no that he was obliged to take one of each size, which makes nearly two tliousand in all. At the latter end of June they had a visit from Mr. Briggs, on his return from India. He brought with him from thnt country the pine-apple and the mango, some of which l»e had planted in the garden of the Aga at Kenneh, and some he tried to cultivate nt Thebes. The mango at Kenneh turned out vary well ; but those which were planted in Thebes died, from want of care. After this Mr. Delzoni ceased all sort of researches, us Mr. Drouetti and others claimed the privilege of opening different places themselves. Having communicated \\'\:* in- tentions of taking a journey to the Red Sea to Mr. Beecliey, he resolved to go also, and Mr. Ricci, a medical getleman, also proposed to accompany them. They set sail on the 16th of September, 1818. The company consisted of Mr. Reechey, the doctor, and Mr. Relzoni, two Greek servants, a miner, and two boys fronj Gournou, who were hired to take care of tlie luggage in the desert. The Nile rose this season Miroe feet and a half above (he highest mark left by the former inundation, with uncommon rapidity, and carried otF several villages and some hundred of their inhabitants. The Arabs had expected an extraordinary inundation this year, in coiiseqtience of the fjcarcity of water the pre- ceding season ; but (hey did not a])prehend it would rise to such a height. They gonerully erect fences of earth and reeds around their villages, to keep the water from their houses ; but the force of this inundation ballled all their efforts. Their cottages, being built of earth, could not stand one instant against the current, and no sooner did the water reach them, than it levelled them with the ground. The rapid stream carried off all that was before it ; men, t !\i he took r different e(\ to take i(\ in nil. Ir. Briggs, 1 from t\mt f which iie , and some , at Kenne\i planted in (searches, as , of oppning icntcd lii:* in- Mr. Beeclu-y, cal getlcman, 1818. The tor, and Mr. lul two boys the luggage half above the ilh uncommon some hundred ry inundation water the pre- l it would rise •8 of earth and jiter from their lutHed all theii- irth, could not no sooner did lith the ground. Ibefore it -, men, IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 623 women, children, cattle, corn, every thing was washed away in an instant, and left the place where the village stood without any tiling to indicuie that there had ever been a house on the spot. It is not the case, as is generally sup- posed, that all the villages of Egypt are raised so high above the general level uf the ground, that the water can- nut reach them ; un the oontr-^ry, most of those in Upper Egypt are little if any thing higher than the rest of the ground, and the only way they have to keep off the water on the rise of the Nile, is by artificial fences made of earth and reeds. The first village they came to was Agalta, whither they went nut merely to see the place but to desire the Cai- makan to send a soldier to guard the tombs, in addition to the Arabs, who were left there. lie expected to be washed away by the Nile. There was no boat in this \illage; and should the water break down their weak fences, the only chanoe of escape was by climbing the palm-trees, till Providence sent some one to their relief. All the boats were employed in carrying away the corn, from villages that were in danger. Both in Upper and Lower Egypt the men, women and children are left to be last assisted, as ' their lives are not so valuable as corn, which brings money to the Basliaw. As this village was then four feet below the water, the pour Fellahs were on the watch day and night round their fences. They employed their skin machines or bugs to throw the water out again which rose from under the ground ; but if their fences should be broken down all was htst. On the 17th several villages were in great danger of being destroyed. The rapid stream bad carried away the fences, and their unfortunate inhabitants were obliged to escape to higher grounds, where it was possible, with what they could save from the water. The distress of these people was great. Some of them had only a few feet of land, and the water was to rise twelve days more, and 'I.' Hi if ill' 1 lite Odl taBLilOIfl*8 TilAVRLiil after that to remain tweire days at itH height, accortliiig to the usual term of the inundation. Fortunate was he wlio eould reach high rfround. Some crossed (lie water on pieces of wood, some on buffaloes or cows, nml o'.hcra with reeds tied up in large bundles. The small spots of high ground that stood above the water, formed so many sanctuaries for these poor refugees, and were crowded with people and beasts. The scanty stock of provisions they could save was the only subsistence they could expect. In some parts the water had left scarcely any dry ground, and no relief could be hoped till four and twenty days had elapsed. The Cacheifd and Caimakans of the country did all tliey eould to assist the villages with their little boats, but they Were so small in proportion to what was wanted, that they could not relieve tlie greater part of the unfortunate peo- ple. It was distressing to behold these poor wretches in audi a situation. On arriving at Erments, where fortu- nately the land is very high, they found many of the neigh- troUring peoi:le collected, ^m|)loytng the boat to fetch the people from an opposite village. The Caimakan set otV himself with another boat, and in the course of an hour he returned with several men and boys. He sent the boats again, and they returned loaded with men, corn, and cattle. The third trip brought still more corn, bulFaloes, sheej), goats, asses, and dogs. The fourth voyage was employed in fetching the women, as the last and mo^t insignificant of their property, whose loss would have been less regretted than tliat of the cattle. This circumstance will convince the European fair sex of their superiority over the Turks and Arabs, at least in point of due respect to them. The party was now increased by a soldier from Esne, four camel-drivers, and a Sheik to guide, making in all twelve men. They had sixteen camels, six of which were lad^n with provisions, water, culinary utensils, &c. In the morning of the 23rd they set off very early, and arrived ttt the first wdl in three hours.. Several of the I' IN RoyPT AND NUBIA. 6t5 Ababde nation came to water their caltio at the well, but kept at a distance. Tlioy live scattered about in tlie rocks and little valleys among the mountains, but oocasionBlly nsaemhle together in a few minutes. To pass this place without a good uniierstandiiig with their Sheik for security would he imprudent and dangerous. On the 24th they sot ofT pretty early. The valley af- forded a very level and good road. At the entrance of this v»Hcy stands a high rock, on the left of which is a small Egyptian temple. To this they directed their course, and arrived at it six hours after setting otf from the well in the morning. It was adorned with Egyptian figures in intaglio rc- lievato, and some retain their colour pretty well. They are as large as life, and nut of the worst execution. In the sekos, which is cut out of the rocks, are four pilasters. At the end of it are three small chambers ; and there are two others, one on each side, in the corner of the lateral walls, on which are to be seen ligurcs and hieroglyphics ia a pretty good style. On one of the columns they observed a Greek inscription. Near the temple are the remains of an enclosure, which no doubt was a station for the cara- vans. It was built by the Greeks, is twelve feet high, and contained several houses within it for the accommo- dation of travellers. In the centre was a well, which is now filled up with sand. All round the wall there is q plat- form or gallery, ruised six feet high, on which a guard of soldiers nught walk all round. On the upper part of the wall are holes for discharging arrows, similar to those formed in our ancient buildings for the same purpose. The sides of the gateways are built of calcareous stones and the wall is of bricks. On the 25thi they continued their journey. No vegetation of any sort was to be seen any where. Sometimes they passed over wide and level plains, and sometimes crossed rugged hills, till two hours before suascl, when they en- P. V. 27. 4 L i ! ''%' m >■ t 02« m'.I.ZONIf* TRAVIJLS li f 1.1 i.i (crcd tlic vullcy culled Deuznk by ibc Arabs. At this place Mr. llicci, the doctor, was attacked with a violent diH- order, and it whs decided that he should return the next morning, as it would increase if he advanced farther in the desert. From this place they travelled to the valley where it was intended to halt. The caravan hnd reaclufd the place an iiour before. Here they found two wells, one of salt water, and the other quite ])utrid nnd brackish. There are few waters in the world better than that of the Nile ; and now to have to drink tlic worst was such a change in one day, that they could not help feeling the consequences of it. Mr. Ueechoy whs taken very ill, from drinking at the first well nnd they had great apprehension of the nextj which was worse. They had provisions for a month, but the fresh meat was gone, and it was with difficulty they couhi procure a very lean goat. The tribe of this country are all Abubde, and extend from the confines of Suez to the tribe of Bisharein, on the coast of the Red Sea, below the latitude of 23°. The manner of this race show them to be lovers of freedom : they prefer living among these solitary rocks and deserts, where they eat nothing but dliourra and drink water, before submission to the command of any govern- ment on earth. It is a great feast among them when they take the resolution of killing a lean goat, but they eat it without fearing that any rapacious hands should take it from them. A man of this stamp, accustomed to liberty and indepcndnnce, would naturally find himself as in a prison, if under the control of even the best of governments. Their greatest care is for their camels, which are their sup- port. They breed them up to a certain growth, and then send tliom to be exchanged fur dhourru, which constitutes their food. Tlie camels, as well as other animals, live upon the common tiiorn plants, which is the most abundant to be found in the country. Some of the most indMStrious of the Ababde cut wood, and make charcoal with it, which they IN BnVPT AND Nl'BIA. \,\\i% p\occ olent ilw- t\»e next L\ier in tlio jere it was o ylace an salt water, re uro few 5 ; anil now ,ne tlay, tiiat of it. Mr. he first weU, • whicli was lUt the fresh DouW procure •e nil Ababile, Vhe tribe of ,w tlie lalitmle to be lovers of lary rocks ontl iia and d to see any, and by these uieaas they procured their sulisisience. On their re- turn (hey brought four fish, each of about six pounds weight, and one foot six inches long ; ilicy were of a strong blue sil- vered colour; their fins, head, and tail red; and their teeth, which arc only four, are ([uite fiat and out of their mouths. They had very large scales, aad their form not unlike the benne of the Nile. It should seem that the Egyptians must have had a knowledge of this fish, as it is so clearly seen in their hieroglyphics, and in the new tomb of P«>ammutbis sume are painted exactly as they are in reality, i'hey are exceedingly good, have very few bones,"and very large galls. On the 5th, in the morning, they ascended a high moun- tain to view the coast as far as they could, and they saw Hi 1 \ i ■ \ A' I 632 BBLZONl'S THAVELS .' ;1 , I'll that it ran in a straight direction towyi)lian style, and they imagined that if the Greeks had built it they had taken their plans from this ancient people, as they had tlone in many other things. It is one hundred and two feet long, and forty-three feet wide; it c« utains four chanibei s, one on each side of the sekos and celia, and two in the great hall in the front. It was three days since they had eaten any thing but dry biscuit and water, except the fish found at the tishermen's hut. On the morning of the 9th, before the sun rose, thay set the little Mussa to digging. He was one of the Arab boys brought from Gournou. He had no spade, but with a shell or caquille, he worked very well, as it was only soft sand. The boy had excavated about four feet of sand close to the north-east corner of the cella, and they saw that the temple was Egyptian. The part of the wall which was dis- covered was adorned with Egyptian sculpture in basso re- lievo, and well executed. They could see three figures, two feet three inches high. The remaining part of the wall was covered with hieroglyphics, &c. in the same hole the boy ound piiiof an Egyptian tablet covered with hieroglyphics and figures. It is a kind of a reddish pudding-stone or breccia, not belonging to the rocks near that place. They took it away as a memorandum of having seen an Egyptian temple on the coast of the Red Sea ; a circumstance that, as yet, no antiquarian has had any idea of. The plain that surrounds this town is very extensive : the nearest point to j^^'i?/^ IN EGYPT AUD NUBlA. 03S the mountains which form the crescent is ahout five miles on the west of it. On tlic north, the mountain is about twelve miles distant, and on the south fifteen. All the plain is inclined to vegetation, such as a sandy soil can produce; but, in particular, the lower part of it towards tlie sea is perpetually moist, and would produce, if cultivated, pas- ture for camels, sheep, and other animals. This moisture is naturally produced by the c^inip of tliesea, which is very strong when it happens. The up|)or part of tlie plain is not so damp, and would be perhaps more productive of dry plants. The houses were not so extensive as they are built at this day. It was the custom of those peoj)le to live close to each other. The largest houses were about forty feet in length, and twenty in breadth ; some were smaller ; the square of 2000 feet would contain 4000 houses ; but, as there were spaces of ground without buildings, which may be reckoned half the town, Mr. Belzoni counted them to be only 2000. These people liad no need of great sheds to put conches, chariots, or any such luxurious lumber. Their cattle and camels lay always in the open air, as they still do in all these countries : nor had they extensive manufactories. The only massy buildings for their commerce could be but a few store- houses, nor could the narrow lanes, which were iu use in those times, occupy much of tlie ground. He calculated that, with the houses out of town, which are scattered about in groups here and there, the population of (hat port must have exceeded 10,000 inhabitants : a town which even to this day would be reckoned considerable, if situated on that coast, as a port for commerce with India. He observed also some of the tombs dug in the nearest lower rocks, of a kind of soft or calcareous stone, which are tlie only ones on the plain near the town on the western side. They left the spot before the evening of the same day, in consequence of the want of water; and, as the camel-drivers had nearly lost their patience, they gave them half a pint each, and conii- 4 M 2 (! , '\-: l-'^ :u 036 QB^ZUNIS 1'UAVBl.S ti>ri. /. nuod their road towarUn tho moundtin on ilio iiurUi-wolaiu. As they left tlic mouiitnin, iinil iiirivod ut lluhookruoir, a place that appears to he at the etilrunce of (hi; cliuiii of nioun- tains that leads to the Nile, (he camels were so tired they could hardly crawl : they had lost three on the rutul, and one they exjjected would not lust lo»^^ It is diflicuU to form a correct idea of a dc^ rl without havinf^ Ijeeii in one ; it is an endless plain of sam. md stonoH, someliim-s inter- mixed with mountains of all si^es aiiil lieii^htH, without rouds or shelter, witliout any sort of produce for food. The f(!w scattered trees and shruhs of (hums, that only appear wlien the rainy season leaves some moisture, barely serve to teed wild animals, and a few birds. Every (liiii/r i>j left to na- ture ; the wandering inhabitants do not care to cultivate even these few plants, and when there is no more of tbeni in one place, they go to another. When the trees become old, and lose their vegetation in siu;h climates as tlie'i^e, tin; SUA, which cunstandy beams upon (Item, burns and reduce!) them to ashes. The other Hmidlcr plants h:ive no sooner risen out of the earth tiiaii tliey are dried up, and all tai\e the colour of^travT, with (he exception of the |)lant haruck ; this falls off before it is dry. Speaking uf a desert, tlieie are few springs of water, some of them at the distance of four, six, or cigiit days Journey from one another, uiid not all of sweet water; on the contrary, it is generally salt or bitter, so that if the thirsty traveller drinks of it, it increaseij his thirst, and he ^sutlers n\ore than before; hut when the dreadful caluuMty happens that the next well, which is anx- iously sought for, is found dry, the misery of such a situa- tion cannot be well described. The camels, which afford the only means of escape, are ho thirsty that they cannot proceed to another well ; and if the travellers kill them tu IN UOYPT AND NUBIA. 087 witlo \)lairt. liiiol'moun- tirrd tln-y ic i«iul, »'»'^ s tlinicuU to been ill one •, letinu'S iiitcr- williout roads ,a. Tlu! fow r uppear Tvlicii serve to feeil r is Iclt to na- e to cuUivale more ol" tlieiii ^ trees become •s ns the>*e, tlic ns ami roiluccH •,,ve no sooner J,, and all lake e jilaul Uarack ; a desert, tliere the ilistanee of uother, and not reiierally salt or )!' il, it increases ; but when the I, which is anx- ot' such asitvia- ds, which allorcl uvt they cannot ors kill theiB to extract the little liquid which remains in tli«ir stomachs, they thcinsclveM cannot art there cannot be a greater storm than to lind a dry well : at sea, one meets with pirates — we escape — we surrender — or die ; in the desert they rob the traveller of all his property and water; they let him live perhaps — but what a life! to die the most barbarous and agonising death. In short, to be thirsty in a desert, without water, exposed to tiie burn- ing sun, v\ithout shelter, and no hopes of finding eitlier, is the most terrible situation that a man can be placed in, and, perhaps oi>e of the greatest sufferings that a liu- man being can sustain : the eyes grow inflamed, the tongue and lips swell ; a hollow sound is heard in the ears, which brings on deafiies:s, and the brains appear to grow thick and inllamed : — all these feelings arise from the want of a little water. In the midst of all this misery, the deceitful mirages ap|)ear before the traveller at no great-distance, something i V ' I r,\ I I *i ae BBLZONI -? TRAVBLW like a lake or river of clear fresh wntor. The deception of tliiH plienomenon i-i well known, ns Ih mnntioned beforo • but it does notfiiil to invite (he lonsrins^ trav«'ller towards that element, nnd ■ put him in remembrance of the liappiness of ()« inflf on Huch a spot. If perchance a traveller is not un- deceived, he hastens his pace to reach it sooner ; the more he advances towards it, the more it goes from him, till at last it vanishes entirely, and (he deluded passenger often asks where is the water he saw at no great distance ; he can scarcely believe that he is so l' AND J4UBIA. oao ad, there is ravi'Uint; on y people, or u assistance, biin. What e sick man ! I faithful ser- pjty his fate, top tlie wiiole ,r the best till |ut all in t^""- the next well parties gene- only refuse to lit a few hours ley know him of the desert, lell-, there one Icr as one likes, Icious liquors, [s, mixeil with ere is a kind of drivers, from the well, where tlie thirsty animals ail drink together, ca- Miola, sheep, dosjs, donkeys, and birds, as it is the only time they can partake of that rxjuid ; for in some places if it is not drtwn np from the well, tlicy cannot reach it. The travel- lers only saw four speciis of b' 's, viz, the vulture, crow, wild piu^oon, and partridge ; .. iltiH last they cat somo, and found 1 1 (MU exceedingly go( t iht- /-rows are the most nu- merous ; they teize the camol'- ')ecking their wounds, if the) have any. The other auu uxoal pleasing diversion is the beautiful damsels wlm come as shepherdesses to water their flocks, who after being assured that there is no dan- ger in approiiehing strangers, become very sociable. They set off at two in the morning of the 20lh, and, be- fore noon, reached the well at Hamesh, containing very go(Hl water. Here they lost another camel ; he could not go any farther. Early on the 23d, they proceeded, and arrived at the first well ; the water of this place tasted very bad on going up, but it appeared pretty good on their return. In the night they arrived at the Nile, and having been long de- prived of good water made them sensible of the superio- rity of that of the river over the wells they had been accus- tomed to. The place they now reached on the Nile was a few miles north of that where they had entered in the desert o|)posite Elfou, and a little south of Eleithias. The road all along the valley undoubtedly was a communication between that town and Berenice, and on the east to the emerald mines. It is not to be wondered at that the town of EleiMiias must have been of some consequence, as there is all the probabi- lity of commerce having been carried on there; there is still a landing-place, which evidently proves the loading and unloading of boats for that purpose; and this place must have been more frequented by the caravans from the sea than Coptus, as it is a somewhat shorter journey- to the Nile. Ou their way down the Nile it was pleasing to see the 'Ii> 11 I \ ^. if]. ,.'^.. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) <- ^^<^ 1.0 I.I tea 128 |2.5 •• I. 18 1.25 1 1.4 1 1.6 ^ 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation '^'^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 d4» EBLIUNl'S TRAYBLS difFerence of the dountry ; all the lands that were nitder wa- ter before were now not only dried up, but were already sown; the muddy villages carried off by the rapid current were all rebuilt; tlM: fences opened; the Fellahs at work in the fields, and all wore a different aspect. It was only fif- teen days since the water had retired, and in that period it decreased more than eight feet. It is not so every year : when the Nile increases slowly, it decreases also in the same manner ; this is in consequence of the abundance ur scarcity of rain which falls during the lainy season in Abys* sinia. The natives rather prefer the rapid rising of the Nile, for it covers more space of land, so that it be not too much, as wag tlie case this year ; and if tlie water remain eight days over it, it does as much good as if it continued twenty. By this time the drowned people were forgotten, and the only calamity remaining was the scarcity of provisions among the Fellahs. The Nile had taken away theh^ stock, and the Catcheffs were only busied in procuring grain for seed. Li all such cases the (joor labourer is the last thought of. Mr. Belzoni now proceeded again 1o the island of Philue to remove the great obelisk from titence to Alexandria. He met with much opposition. The greatest difficulty was to persuade the Reis, or captain of the shalial, to undertake to lauiich the boat down the cataract wiih the obelisk on board. The water was very low at that time. However, the pro- mise of a good present, and half of the money in his hands, mollified the captain, and he promised thut he would accom- plish the undertaking. There was some difficulty at first in removing the obelisk from its original station ; but ouce put on its way, it soon came to the water-skle. The pedestal was rather more troublesome ; owing to its square form, it was almost buried under the rubbish ; and :i9 they had no tackle whatever, and very little wood, it retarded the work one or two days. Just as the obelisk wafrreaidy to beeubarkedf the follow- IN BOYPT AND NUBIA. Gil . already \ current it work in 9 only fif- t j)eriod it ery year: ilaoin the intlaMce or a in Abys- »e Nile, for )omuel>, as I eight (lays twenty. By ind the only sions among r stock, and ftin for seed, luught of. ftd of Philoe xandria. H® icuUy was to undertake to lisk on board, ver, the pto- in his hands, would aocom- sulty at first in but once put The pedestal quare form, i*- s they bad bo rded the work .9 ed, the follow- ing acoMeot happened, ivhicti was entirely owing to neglect, by trusting a single inanGSUvre to some who speak more than they can execute. Mr. Belzoni left the care to others of making a sort of temporary pier of large blocks of stones, while he examined a certain passage in the cataract where the boat was to be taken up empty, and launched dawn when loaded. On his return, the pier appeared quite strong enough to bear at least forty tiroes the weiglit it had to sup- port ; but, alas ! when the obelisk came gradually on from the slopin!^ bank, and all the weight rested on it, the pier, with the obelisk, and some of the men, took a slow uiove- ment, and sunk into the river. i ; .; Mr. Belzoni observed that the stones which were to serve as a foundation on the sloping bank bad been only laid on the surface of it, so that naturally the weight of the obelisk must have carried it, or rather pressed down into the Nile. The obelisk was still peeping a little out of the water : the labourers were of various humours ; some were sorry, not fur the obelisk, which was no loss to them, but for the loss of what they might have gained in future ope- rations in passing it down the cataract, and others were laughing, at seeing the evident disappointment expressed on many countenances. The obelisk is one single piece of granite of twenty-two feet in length, and two in breadth at the basis. It is about the height of that in St. Geocge's Fields, but of a stone of a much heavier quality. Having determined to take the obelisk up, he ordered the men to come the next morning, and sent to Assouan that evening to fetch some ropes if possible. The two next days were employed in raising the obelisk. A great quantity of stones were now brought to the water- side. Several men entered the water, and raised a heap of stones OP the side of the obelisk opposite the shore, to form a solid bed for the levers to rest upon. The levers were then placed under the obelisk, one at the basis, and the other near the leaning point, so that by the pressure of the P. V. 27. 4 N '< 'a more than an Arab otn afturd tu pay, as hU generni pay for a day's labour is only twenty paras, tlircc-penoe, so that It ii Tery seldom an Arab is tu be seen in these npend- tbrift places. It is somewhat singular to observe, that while these soldiers ore drinking their coffee, they assume the same airs and oonsequenco as their Beys. A lieenbashe, who is only in rank with a serjcant, issues to the ourporal the order he received from the Cacheft', in tiie same tone as it was delivered to him ; the ourporal does so to the soldier, who occasionally passes it to an Arab in the same manner. On the morning of the 37th of May, Mr. Belzoni was taken to see the scat of an old town a short distance in the south. As he thought he might see some inscription on the wall, Mr. Belzoni took from his pocket a small telescope, which, when opened, was not more than two feet long. Haviug put it in a direction to the upper part of the wall, all the peo- ple that were there retired in great precipitation, and the others near were on the point of doing the same. An old man stared at the telescope, and wished to know what lie was about. He thought it best to please the old man by letting him have a peep. He was shy at first, but he took it ; and, after a long examination, put it to his eyes. At last he uaught the focus of the glasses, and was much asto- nished that the stones of the wall should come so near to him. They entered through a house into the interior of a temple; but there was nothing but the inner part of a wall, which must have been the sanctuary. All was apparently the vast ruins of a great edifice, covered with mud cottages which formed the village, and the standing part of a temple built by later nations. The materials of the former temple haviiif; been employed to erect the latter, but the stone had been diminished in size. By this time the principal people of the village hud arrived, The telescope was what di^w their attention at present, aud it was handed from one to another j but unfortunately, after i/<(» - ' *'..* V • ^^sar IN RGYPr ANU NUBIA. Ml iforUmately, after the Arut, noono oould aeo any thing; he protaxted that a branch of a date-tree, which was at aume distance, came •0 close to him that it touched his nose. All the rest were willing to see this wonder, but he unwarily bad put the teles- cape otrits focus, consequently the others could nut see. When put right again, the first that could see exclaimed, that he was close to the tree. His pleasure of sight did not last long, for no sooner did he lay that be saw something, than the glass was taken from him, and put out of its focus again. This created sport for more than two hours, and Mr. Belzoni then received bis telescope back again without injury. They were so pleased with it and with their know- ledge of it, that Mr: Belzoni proposed to take a tour round the village on the outside of it, and they all agreed to ac- company him. They set out with at least half the people. Mr. Belzoni inquired from some of them, who seemed to be dis- posed to tell any thing, if there were any places underground any where : they seemed surprised how he should know of any places of the kind, and told him that there were many round the village. On going towards them, he perceived several tombs cut out of the rock. On entering he found three or four chambers, in each of which were several sarco- phagi of burnt clay with the mummies inside, their folding not so rich or so fine, the linen of a coarse sort, and the corpses without asphaltum, consequently not so well pre- served. They are in great quantity in each tomb. Many of the sarcophagi are still in good preservation, but he could not take any away, as it would have been too great a burthen for a camel. After a long tour over these tombs, they returned. Mr. Belzoni inquired if any of them had any articles to dispose of, and told them that he would give them money in return : nothing was brought to him of any consequence, only a broken Grecian vase of bronze, about eight inches high, of a very curious shape ; and a small cherub of Greek work, not more than three inches high. During the morn- 4 O 2 I ' I I 5 >| jl (I I i \ r if I (■i 'I m ji 65-2 BRLZONl'S TRAVELS I >n^ Mr. Belzoni was taken on one side by the Cady, who was uncommonly poHte to bim all tbis time, for which atten- tion he could not account : he told him in a few words, that himself, the Sheik Salem, and his father, had made up their minds to oiFer him to remain there with them, that he should become a Mahomedan, and that a great feast would be made on his account on the day of the festival of that ceremony ; that he should partake of part of their lands, and if he knew how to introduce some new produce, it would be all to his own advantage ; and lastly, that he might choose four livives from among their own daughters, and that he should be happy there without going about so much after stones. He had not a little difficulty to get himself out of tbis scrape, He left the Gady, giving him hopes that he would return soon, and then, perhaps, his mind might be more inclined to stop there and marry ; but, for the present, he could not leave all the rest of his affairs at Cairo unsettled. His Si- cilian servant was attacked also at the same time,' but he got off in a more speedy way ; he promised them, that as soon as he had accompanied hi* employers to Cairo, he would return immediatdy, and stay there with them all the rest of bis life. A feast of rice eating was kept in consequence of the death of a man related to Sheik Ibrahim, the landlord of the house where he was, and who was taken tobf^ buried just before. No sooner was the eating ended, than the most tremendous noise issued from the outer doors ; it was the widow of the deceased, who returned home, accompanied with all the rest of the matrons of the village, all in great uproar. On the next day the widow who had buried her husband cume and seated herself near Mr. Belzoni, sobbing, as he suffposed, for the loss of her husband. The Sicilian servant tried to persuade her to bear her loss patiently ; but she con- tinued sobbing : at last she said, that none but Mr. Belzoni could restore her to happiness, and that sha hoped that he would not refuse her the favour. At last he asked what -*»•.-.„. IN EGYPT AND NUBIA. 658 lady, ^0 hioh atten- rords, that ide up their it l)e should aid be made ; ceremony ; i if he knew be all to his gefour^ives e should be stones. He f this scrape, ivoald return more inclined he could not led. His Si- oe,' but he got I, that as soon iro, he would all the rest of she wanted. She said, that she saw him writing magic, and begged he would write two pieces of paper— one to get another husband, as soon as possible, and the other to make use of for the same purpose if he should die. He endea- voured to persuade her that he was not in possession of ma- gic ; but she would not be convinced, and went away much displeased. After varibus adventures, on the Isth of June the whole party returned to Benisouef, where they embarked for Cairo ; from thence they proceeded to Alexandria ; and Mr. Bel- zoni having arranged all bis affairs in Egypt, in the middle of September, 1810, he embarked for Europe. The head of Memnon, the sphynxes and other antiquities were sent to Great Britain and placed in the British Mu- seum. There they are open for the public inspection, and the reader is recommended to pay a visit to that place, to which every person who is decently drelssed is admitted every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, except on holydays or other particular days. There they will be led to appre- ciate in some degree the valuable and arduous services of Mr. Belzoni. 1 i! !i l\ ! ''I ice of the death rd of the house ied just before, ost tremendous widow of the I with all the it uproar, id her husband sobbing, as he Sicilian servant y ; but she con- »ttt Mr. BeUoni , hoped that he he asked what r -I: m ( 654 ) .'?'■ '■..•?( iJfUli"" it "5|i; • ,r. I,].. * CAPTAIN ROSS'S VOYAGE *THE ARCTIC REGIONS. The voyage bf Captain Ross, although now introduoed into this work, took place prior to those of Captains Parry and Franklin. The cause of this arrangement is, that the voyage of Captain Ross was not marked by such interesting incidents as those of the latter. There is however much tu be noticed even in this voyage, and such circumstances will form the history now to be given, which consequently will be comprised in a few pages. On the llth of December, 1817, Captain Ross received a letter from Sir George Hope, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, informing him that two ships were to be sent out to ascertain the existence or non-existence of a North- west passage, and desiring him to say whether he should wish to undertake it ; at the same time informing him, that he would be accompanied by a man of science, and by Green- land pilots accustomed to navigate those seas. To this he returned for answer, that he had no hesitation in undertak- ing the service, particularly with the promised assistance. On the 16th he received orders from Sir George to make the best of his way from Loch Ryan to Greenock, in the Driver (which ship he then commanded), and when super- seded he was to proceed to London. Having arrived in London on the 30th of December, and receiving directions, he visited the ships, and chose the I ROSS'S VOYAGE. 656 Isabella, as being the most proper ship for the senior oflli- cer ; he was afterwards employed in planning the aoeom- inodations, and directing the various alterations which were necessary for the safety of the ships and comfort of the crews, as well as in obtaining information from the different masters of the Greenland ships, and other persons who had been accustomed to navigate the icy seas. He was furnished with the following official instructions. By the Commisaiontrs for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Irelandj Sge. Sfc. HIS Royal Highness the Prince Regent having signi- fied his pleasure to Viscount Melville, that an attempt should be made to discover a Northern passage, by sea, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; We have, in conse- quence thereof, caused four ships or vessels to be fitted out and appropriated for that purpose, two of which, the Isa- bella and the Alexander, are intended to proceed together by the north-westward through Davis* Strait; and two, the Dorothea and Trent, in a direction as due north as may be found practicable through the Spitsbergen seas. ' And wheress we have thought fit to intrust you with the command aud direction of the former expedition, and have directed Lieutenant Parry, who has been appointed to com- mand the Alexander, to follow your orders for his further proceedings ; you are hereby required and directed to pro- ceed to sea, with all convenient despatch, in the Isabella, and, taking under your orders the Ale:.ander above men- tioned, make the best of your way into Davis' Strait, through which you will endeavour to pass to the northward, without stopping on either of its coasts, unless yon shall find it ab- solutely necessary. In this passage you may expect to meet with frequent obstructions from fields and islands of ice ; to get clear of which, and to ensure the safety of the ships and people committed to your charge, will require from you, and ull who are under your orders, the greatest precaution ^ I M % n if 656 ROM's VOYAGE TO I and Tigilaooe. And, ai the naTigfttion among ice may be considered as ab art to be acquired only by practice vre haTe directed that there be appointed to each of the ships un. der your orders, a master and a mate of whale.fishing Tea- sels, well experienced in those seas, from whose knowledge and skill you may derive material assistance. ' It is not improbable that in the early part of the season when you may be expected to arriTc in Davis' Strait, the ice may be found to stretch across from land to land ; but as ice is known to vary in its position from year to year, and several times in the course of the year, and in those places where not fast by the ground, is almost constantly in mo- tion by winds, tides, and currents; if, on your arrival, it should appear to present a compact barrier, you will, to course, be prepared to avail yourself of the first open- ing which may be discovered, to pass to the northward. As, however, in the present state of uncertainty with regard of the movements of the ice, and with the very imperfect knowledge we have of this strait, and still more so of the sea beyond it, no specific instructions can be given for your guidance, the time and manner of proceeding to fulfil the ulterior object of your destination, in places where impudi* ments may occur, must be left entirely to your discretion ; in the exercise of which we rely on your zeal and skill in your profession for the accomplishment, as far as it can be accomplished, of the service on which you are employed ; not doubting that every exertion will be made on your part, and on that of your officers, while, at the same time, no pre- caution will be omitted, that prudence nay dictate, to avoid accidents on an enterprise of so arduous a nature as that of conducting ships in safety through fields of ioe in unknown seas. It may not, however, be amiss to suggest, as a ge- neral observation, that a passage through fields of ice is most likely to be found where the sea is deepest and least connected with land ; as there is reason to suppose that ice is found to be more abundant near the shores of the con- tinent and islands, in narrow straits, and deep bays. And oe may be actioe, vre • ahips un< iBhing Tes- knowledge the leasoD, Strait, the ind ; but as 9 year, and, those places antly in mo- four arrival, jr, you wiil, le first open- ) northward. f with regard iry imperfect ore so of the riven for your T to fulfil the f here impedi- ir discretion; and skill in ar as it can ire employed ; on your part, time, no pre- late, to avoid ture as that of 36 in unknown gest, as a ge- elds of ice is peat and least suppose that res of the cou- p bays And TUB ARCTIC RBGIONS. C67 it may also be expected, that the sea will be roost clear of ice where the currents are strongest, as the stream of a ri- ver will continue open long after the sides are frozen up. From the best information we hare beeii able to obtain, it would appear Ihat a current of some force runs from the northward towards the upper part of Davis' Strait, during the summer season, and, perhaps, for some part of the win- ter also, bringing with it fields of ice in the spring, and ice-bergs in the summer. This current, if it be considerable, can scarcely be alto* getht . supplied by streams from the land, or the melting of ice ; there would, therefore, seem reason to suppose, that it may be derived from au open sea ; in which case, Baffin's Bay cannot be bounded by land, as our charts generally re- present it, but must communicate with the Arctic Ocean. In passing up the Strait, if such a current should be dis- covered, it will be of the greatest. importance to you, in pointing out that part of the Strait which is likely to be the least encumbered with ice, as well as leading you direct to the opening by which it may be supposed to pass from the Arctic Sea into Davis* Strait. In tracing this current, you will soon discover whether it takes its origin in the north-east or north-west quarter : if in the former, you will, of course, abandon all pursuit of it further ; but if it should cume from the north-west or west, it will prove the best guide you can follow, to lead you to the discovery of which you are in search. The strength and direction of the current should be tried once in twenty-four hours; or oftener, if any material change is observed to take place ; and it will be most ad- viseable to take its temperature at the surface frequently, as you proceed, to compare it with the temperature of the sur- face, where there is no current. If the reports of several intelligent masters of whaling ves • sets may be relied on, that part of the sea to the northward of Davis* Strait, which is marked on the charts as Baffin's P. V. 28. 4 P i 1 '!: u i( •^Vji-'l 058 ROSS% VOYAOB TQ Bay, (that is to say, frona \\ie 78d (^gree of northern lati- (ude, to the 77th, where ^^^o is ffippose^ to have seen the land,) Is generally free from fielt^iqe, which, from its ex- tent of surface, offers th? g^eat^st in[^pediment to naviga- tion. SI)o^ld you fii^^ thi^ Qf^^Hy to be tlie cave, it may be advisable to stand well to the; northward, beiore you edge away to the westward, in order to get a good oiling, in rounding the norlli-east point of the continent of Ame- rica ; whose latitude has not been ascertained, but which, if a conjecture may be hazarded^ front what is known from the northern coast of that continent, may perhaps be found in or about the 72t}, degree oC Iatit,^de• ^n the event of y9^r being able tu succeed in rounding this point, and fi,ildi.ng the sea open, you are carefully to avoid coming near the coast, where you would te most likely to be impeded by fixed or floating ice ; but keepin^;^ well to the northward, and in deep water, make the best of your way to Behring^s Strait, Uirough which you are to en- deavour to pass into, the Pacific Ocean ; and, in the event of your succeeding to pass this Strait, you are then to make the best of your way to Karatschatka, if you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast, for the purpose of delivering to the Russian Governor, duplicates of all the journals and other documents which the passage may have supplied, witli a request, that they may bu forw;arded overland to St. Peteraburgh» to be con- veyed from theqce to London ; and from this, you will pro- ceed to the Sandwich Islands, or New Albion, or such other place in the Ifacific Ocean as you may thin|( proper, to rel^t apd refresh your crews ; and if, during your stay at sucl^ place, a safe opportunity shoiild occur of sending these papers to England* you shpiild. s^ud duplicates by that conveyance. If tl^^ circumst^jnges of your passage should be supb as to encourage your attempting to return by the same cour^f;, you may winter at the Sandwich Islands, N|c;w Albion, or YHB ARCTIC tlBGIONS. Mb [lern laUp i seen the )(n its ex- ,0 naviga- te, it may lelore you )od offing, It of Ame- but wbich, LQown fcom ps be found in rounding caijefully to il(\ Vie most but keeping ,6 tlie best of you are to en- , in tbe event I tlven to make liink you can on that coast, an Governor, uments wbicU lest, tiiat they rh, to be con- you v»»ll pro* bion, ov such thinH proper, ring your stay iur of sending dupVicaJes by uld be suph as le aamecour^^, SIpw Albion, or any other proper place ; and early in next spring, may pfo- ce«(I direct for Behring*ii Strbit, and use yoiir endeavours to repass the same ; and shoiild you succeed th tliis attempt, you are to proceed, if possible, td the eastward, keeping in sight and approaching the coast of America, whenever the position of the ice will permit you so to do, in order that you may be enabled to ascertain the latitudes and longitudes of some of the most remarkable headlands or inlets (liat may occur ; taking every possible precaution, however, against being beset by the ice, aind thus compelled t« winter ou ttint coast. Before, however, you determine on returning by the same way, you will maturely ^sonsider and' weigh tlie prudence of making such an attempt. If your original passage sl.ould be made with facility, and you see reason to believe that your success was not owing to circumstances merely ucci* dental, or temporary, and .that there is a prubability that you may be able also to accomplish the passage back, it would be undoubtedly of great importance that yuu should endeavour to make it : but if, on the other hand. It shall have been attended with circumstances of danger or ditR- culty, so great as to persuade you Chat the attempt to re-: turn would risk the safety of the ships, and the lives of the crews, you, in this case, are to abandon all thoughts of re- turning by the northern passage, and are to make the best of your way home-ward, by Cape Horn. Previous to your leaving England, or at any rate before your departure from Shetland, you are to fix with Captain Buchan, to whom the other expedition is intrusted, upon a rendezvous in the Pacific ; and if you should be joined by the Dorothea and Trent, or either of them, you are to take them under your command ; and, having detached one ship, with a copy of all your papers, and a complete set of despatches reporting your proceedings, to England, by the route of Cape Horn, you are to proceed with the other ships to repass Bebring's Strait, as above directed, if you should 1 P 2 i.i' M 1 r !i 1. I )\ 1 \l J : \h II i eoo ROM** VOYAaE TO fit'f have determined on that course { but if you should have re- solved to return by the South, you are to tnke care to in- terchange with Captain Bucban copies of your respective journals and despatches ; or, if you do not meet Captain Buclian, or his ships, you are to deposit copies of your own papers on board the Alexander, in order to ensure, as far as possible, the arrival of these important documents in Eng- land, by thus multiplying the modes of conveyance. If, however, it should so happen, that from obstruction of ice, or any other circumstance, your progress to the westward should prove too slow to admit of your approach to Beliring's Strait, before the present season sliall be too far advanced, to mai(e it safe to attempt that passage ; and, at the same time, your progress should be too considerable to the westward, to ensure your return the same season by the way of Davis* Strait ; you are, in that case , to edge down to the northern coast of America, and endeavour to find out some secure bay, in which the ships may be laid up for the winter; taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people committed to your charge, as the ma- terials with which you are supplied for housing-in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do : and, if you shall find' it expedient to resort to this measure, nnd you should meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to en- deavour by every means in your power to cultivate a friend- ship with them, by making them presents of such articles as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them : you will, however, take care not to suf- fer yourself to be surprised by them, but use every pre- caution, and be constantly on your guard against any hos- tility. You will endeavour to prevail on them, by such reward, and to be paid in such manner, as you may think best to an- swer the purpose, to carry to any of the settlements of the Hudson's Bay Company, or of the North-west Company, THE ARtiTlC RBOIUNU. eei an account of your lituation and proceedings, with an ur- gent request that it nay ba forwarded to Bnglaod with the utmost possible despatch. If, however, ull your endeavours should fail in getting 90 far to the westward as to enable you to double the north- eastern extremity of America, (round which these Instruc- tions have hitherto supposed a passage to exist,) you are, in that case, to use all the means in your power^ by keep- ing to the northward and eastward, to ascertain to what ex- tent you can proceed along the western coast of Old Green- land ; and whether there is any reason to suppose that it forms a part of the continent of America ; and you are also to endeavour to improve the very imperfect geography of the eastern const of America, and of the island or islands which are supposed to intervene between it and Disko Island in Davis' Strait ; but you are, on no account, in this latter case, to remain on this service so leng, unless accidentally . caught in the ice, as to be obliged to winter on any part of the eastern coast of America, or the western coast of Old Greenland, or the intermediiite islands ; but to leave the ice about the middle or the 20th of September, or the Ist of October at the latest, and make the best of your way to the River Thames. - , . ' . Although the first, and most important, object of this voy- age, is the discovery of a passage from Davis' Strait, along the northern coast of America, and through Behring's Strait, into the Pacific ; it is hoped, at the same time, that it may likewise be the means of inproving the geography and hydrography of the Arctic Regions, of which so little is hitherto known, and contribute to the advancement of science and natural knowledge. With this view, we have caused a great variety of valu- able instruments to be put on board the ships under your orders, of which you will be furnished with a list, and for the return of which you will be held responsible ; and have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council of If.; ; I m9 ROKs'ii vnvAtifi ii/ th« Royal Society, ordet^d to be reeeiired on board tlie Isabella, Captain Snbine, of tlie Hoynl Artillery, «vho in represented to us as a gentleman vtrell skilled in iisironomy, natural history, nnd various branches of knowledt^f, to as- sist you in making such obserfations as may tend to (he inf. protement of geography and natigstion, and the advance. mttt of science in general. Aitiongst other subjcctii of scientific en<)uiry, you will particularly direct your Atten- tion to tiie variation and inclination of the magnetic needle, and the intensity of the lAdgnetio force ; yotl will erdeuvour to ascertain how far the needle may be aflTected by the at- mospherical electricity, and wliat effect may be ))roduced on the electrometer and magnetic needle on the appearance of the Aurora Borealis. You will keep a correct register of the temperature of the air and of the surface of the sea; and you will frequently try the temperature of the sea, in irarious situations and at different depths. You will cause the dip of the horizon tO be frequently observed by tlic dip. sector invented by Doctor Woliaston ; and ascertain what effect may be produced by mditsuring that dip across fields of ice, as compared with its measurement acrosfi the surface of the open sea. You will also cause frequent observations to be made for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect may be produced by observing an object, either celestial or terrestrial, over a field of ice, as compared with objects ob- served over a- surfiice of water ; togetlier with such other meteorological remarks as you may haVe opportunities of making. You are to attend particularly to the hcij^ht, di- rection, and strength of the tides, and to the set nnd ve- locity of the currents; the depth and soundings of the Sea, and the nature of the bottom ; for which purpose you are supplied with an instrument better calculated to bi-in aitvance- jbjccts of oiir oitten- ,ic needle, e:,(1eavour by the at- 3 produced ippertranco ict register of the 8ei\ ; the aea, in u vvVII cause by the dip- sertain what ross fieUls of le surface of ubsertations wliat eflFect r celestial or 1 objects ob- such otlicr ortunities of e l»cij?l»t, di- set nnd ve- js of the sea, >o8e you are to brinsj up this purpose, the set of the fording more J, We desire (hat you do '^requently, after you ahsll have pasieA (be lati- tude of 65° North, and once every day when you shall be iu ao ascertained current, (,hrow overboard a bottle, closely sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and posi" (ion at which it is launched; and you will give similar or- ders to tlie Coiuinauder of the Alexander, to be executed in case of sepuration. And for (his purpose, we have caused each ship to be supplied with papers, on which is printed^ in several languages, a ^request that whoever may find U should take measures for tuausQuttiDg iit to this office. - ~ And, although you are nat to be drawn aside from tba main object of the service on wUlch you are employed, as long as yo|u may be enabled to make any progress, yet whenever you may be impeded by ice, or find it: necessary to approach the coasts of the continen.t or islands, yon are to cause views of buys, harbours, headlands, Shq. to be carefully taken, to illustrate ojid explain the track of the vessels, or such charts as you may be able to make ; qu which duty, you will be assisted by Lieutenant Hoppner, whose skill in dfcawing is rjcpresented to be so considerable,, as to supersede thp uiec.cssUy of appointing a professional draughtsman. You are to make use of every means in your power, to collect a^id, preserve such, specimens of the aiumal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms, as you can conveniently stow on. board, the ships: and, of the larger aniipals, you are to cause accurate drawings tp. be made, to accompany and elucidate tite descriptions of them. In this, aswell as in evei:y other part of your scientific duty, we trust that, yuu, will, receive material assistance from Captain Sabine. You are to u^e your best endeavours, and give instruc- tions to the same effect to Lieutenant Parry, to keep tbA. two vessels constantly together, and prevent their separa-* tion ; if, however, they should separate, you are to appoint. LerwicH* in the Shetland Islands, as the first rendezvous, and> after thi\t. Love Bay, Disco Island, iuDayis' Strait; ' '1 'h' n (M4 ROM's VOTAOB TO beyond which, •■ nothinfi^ in known, no other rendexfoiM can be appointed. And in the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the ahipi, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled ship to be removed into the other, and with her singly, to proceed in prosociition of the voyage, or return to England, according as circum- stances shall appear to require : should, unfortunately, your own ship be the one disabled, you are, in that case, to take the command of the Alexander : and, in the event of your own inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these in • structions into execution, you are to transfer them to (bo Lieutenant next in command, who is hereby required to ex- ecute them in the best manner he can, fur the attainment of the several objects in view. -'■.** As, in all undertakings of this nature, several emergen- cies may arise, against wlitch no foresight can provide, and no specific instructions can be given ; you ore, in all such cases, to proceed in such a manner as you may judge to bo most advantageous to the service on which you are em- ployed ; most likely to advance the accomplishment of the various objects of the expedition ; and most conducive to the security of the ships, and the health, comfort, and safety, of your officers and men. On your arrival in England, you are immediately to re- pair to this office, in order to lay before Us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage : taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand from the officers and petty officers the logs and journals they may have kept ; and also from Captain Sabine such journals or me- moranda as he may have kept ; which are all to be sealed up: and you will issue similar directions to Lieutenant Parry and his officers ; the said logs, journals, or other decuments, to be thereafter disposed of as We may think proper to determine. His Majesty's Principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs has been requested to apply to the courts of Russia, v^m ■narablfl to cauie IV ed tnto cution of c'lrcum- lely, your B, to take it of you»" these in- em to t\>e irecl to ex- (uument of \ emttgcn- roide, and in ttUsuch judge to bo ou are em- inent of the lucWe to the and safety, liately to re- fuU account |our voyage: ind from the ley may have [rnals or me- ito be sealed Lieutenant [als, or other re may think for Foreign rta of Russia, THe AROTIO RROION8. 065 Denmark, and Sweden, to issue ordersi to (heir respective subjects, to afford any hospitality or UHsistance which these expeditions mny be in a situation to require and receive : the Court uf Ilussia has been particularly requested to give di« rections to the authorities ut Kamtscbatku, fur the safe conveyance of any despatches you may intrust to them ; and the Courts of Denmark and Sweden have been re- quested to order any of their ships, whether national or pri- vate, which you may fall in with, to treat you with amity, and to note carefully in their logs the situations in which they may see any of His Majesty's ships. You will, oa your part, behave with cordiality and friendship to any foreign vessels you may fall in with, or the authorities of any port or place at which you may touch : and on all such occasions, you will not fail to address to Our Secretary, for Our information, a general acoouut of your proceedings up to the date at which the opportunity of convcyin(^> your de- •patob may occur. Given under Our hands the 31st of March, 1818 (Signed) Melville, J. S. YORKE, Geo. IIoi'B, G. MootiE. By Command of their Lordships^ (Signed) J. VV. Cruker. To John lioss, Est]., Commander ' of His Majesty's Sloop Isabella. Names of tlie oiticers, &c. who sailed on board the two ships. On Board the Isabella. John Ross, Commander. William Robertson, Lieutenant. William Thorn Purser. John Edwards Surgeon. C. J. Beverley, Assistant Surgeon. Messrs. Skene and Ross, .... Admiralty Midshipmen. J P. V. 27. 4 Q il ,i!= i ilJi M. 066 boss's voyage to John Biishnan Midshipman and Clerk. ' Benjamin Lewis, «.... Master and Greenland Pilot. Tliomas Wilcox, Mate, ditto, ditto. « On board the Alexander. ''■■"' ' William Edward Porry, Commander. '' ' H. H. Hoppner, Lieutenant. Messrs. Bisson and Nius, .... Admiralty Midsliipmen. Alexander Fisher, Assistant Surgeon. W. H. Hooper, Purser. John Allison, Master and Greenland Pilot. ' Joseph Philips, Mate, ditto, ditto. James Halse, « Clerk. During their stay at Deptford, they were joined by .John Sacheuse, an Esquimaux, native of South-cast Bay, Greenland, in latitude 69° N., and longitude 50° W. It appears that he had concealed himself on board the Thomas and Ann, ofLeith, in the month of May, 1816: on being discovered. Captain Newton, who commanded that vessel, wished to land him again, but he earnestly entreated to be permitted to remain, and was accordingly brought to Leith. lie returned to Greenland with the same ship in I8l7, and, on his arrival at home, found that his only near relation had died in his absence. It was not ascertained, at his Lis first outset, what were hiii; motives for quitting his na- tive country ; but it seemed now that the death of this re- lation was his reason for continuing in the ship, which he did, returning to Leith with her the same season. Captain Ross had several conversations with him on the subject ; he related many adventures and narrow escapes he had expe- rienced in his canoe, in one of which he stated himself to have been carried to sea in a storm with five others, all of whom perished, and that he was miraculously saved by an English ship. He also said that he had, through the mis- sionaries, been converted to Christianity, and the strong desire he had to see the country these good men came from, had induced him to desert his own ; but that it was always THE AROTIC RIOIOHS. 667 his intention to return, nfben be had learnt the Scriptures and the art of drawing. During his residence at Leitb, in the winter of 1817, he had been taken notice of by Mr. Nasmyth, the artist, who introduced bim to Sir James Hall. His wishes to accom- pany Captain Ross were made known to the Admiralty through Captain Bazil Hall, and he was consequently en gaged as interpreter. On the 18th of April 1818, the ships dropped down to Galleons. From the prevalence, however, of contrary winds while in the river, and. their subsequent detention at Sheerness, for the purpose of paying the crews an ad« vance of three months' wages, it was not until tbe 35th that they took their final departure. On the 30tb they reached Lerwick in Shetland. An ex« cellent seaman, who was discharged at his own request, by Captain Oliver, from the Prinee of Wales revenue cruizer, joined the expedition. He was accompanied by another Tolunteer, who did the duty' of cook on board, and who was also a performer on the violin. The latter talent they often found of use in their operations of tracking the ship through the ice ; the severity of this labuur being lightened by the character of amusement which was given to it, in consequence uf the tracking party being always led by tbe musician. He also served to divert the people in those un- occupied hours when the spirits of seamen are apt to flag ^or want of objects, or to be employed in mischievous practices subversive of discipline. On tbe 0th of June, they arrived in latitude 68 deg. and ran by the edge of the fixed ice, sailing along it till they approached the land, where they found it closely joined, and no water to be seen over it from the mast-head ; they made fast to an iceberg of convenient height, which was aground near two small islands, that they supposed to lis off North Bay. Some native Estjuimaux came off, from whom they learnt 4 q 2 ' i\ "' u l!ii 068 AOSl's VOYAGE TO ;'« -. that this berg had remained aground in the same place f TUB ARCTIC REGION*). 67.1 otion w\i\ch rformed the gliteen years , was the ob- ih, being ob- ady's shawl, r her acccp- and not un- y took a pew- n return : re- ichcouhl leave d made an im- fee "was again rhe ice begin- ug towards the ind every ship when tvo ioc- Ipletely jammed pressure, but lifted several fteen minutes; the exertions icted after two ich quarter and Alexander, and t after a whale, )eing black and ella'sboat; the ttle behind the ual. The boat several lines was perceived leared, about a mile and a half distant, with the harpoon in his back, being then a loose fish* As he remained near the surface, and ap- peared to suffer from the wound, the young officers of both ships, who each commanded boats, pulled with emulation to the spot where each expected him to rise, waiting for the moment of bis appearance with anxiety. Fortune favoured Mr. James Ross, the animal rising nearest to his boat, and giving bis harpooner an opportunity of infixing his weapon, following it by a third and fourth, which made the capture certain. He was now much exhausted, and obliged to re- main near the surface^ tbereby exposing himself to the bn- cers ; the blood, at intervals, flowing from bis wounds, and being thrown up in volumes as he rose to breathe. At length, becoming exhausted, he bad only strength to make a last and most terrible struggle. The people in the boats, aware of their danger, retreated, leaving him to spcitd his fury on the water, where he was seen rolling and writhing in dreadful agony, lashing the sea from side to side with his tail and fins, till he expired : he then sunk, remaining sus- pended by the lines of the harpooners, who weighed him to the surface, and towed him on board in triumph On the 6th of August, the weather proving fine, the ships were tracked with labour through about a mile of bay-ice to the narrowest part of a floe which obstructed their passage into the pool a-bead ; the usual resort was had to sawing, but their labours were soon suspended by the discovery of a pas- sage a little to the eastward. To this, therefore, they warped the ships through the loose and bay-ice, and thus managed to proceed about a mile further. As it appeared likely their people would be at work throughout the night, an extra allowance of provisions was served out ; their labours were incessant till half.past one, when, being almost worn out with exertion, they were al- lowed to rest till five. At half-past six the ice began to move, and the wind increasing to a gale, the only chance left was to endeavour to force the ship through it to the nurtfa, P. V. 29. 4 R 674 KOSS'S VOYAGE TO wliere it partiuUy opened ; but the channel was so much obstructed by heavy fragments, that the utmost efTurts were inefiectual ; the field closed in, and, at noon, they felt its pressure most severely. A large floe wliich lay on one side of the Isabella appeared to be fixed, while, on the other side, another of considerable bulk was passing uliuig with a ra- pid motion, assuming a somewhat circular direction, in consequence of one side having struck on the fixed field. The pressure continuing to increiise, it became doubtful whether the ship would be able to sustain it ; every support threatened to give way ; the beams in the hold began to bend, and the iron tanks settled together. At this critical moment, when it seemed impossible to bear the accumulat- ing pressure much longer, the bull rose several feet ; while the ice, which was more than six feet thick, broke against the sides, curling back on itself. The great stress now fell upon their bow, and, after being again lifted up, they were carried with great violence towards the Alexander, which had hitherto been, in a great measure, defended by the Isa- bella. Every effort to avoid their getting foul of each other failed ; the ice anchors and cables broke one after another, and the sterns of the two ships came so violently into con- tact, as to crush to pieces a boat that could not be removed in time. The collision was tremendous, the anchors and chain-plates being broken, and nothing less than the loss of the masts expected : but, at this eventful instant, by the in- terposition of Providence, the force of the ice seemed ex- hausted ; the two fields suddenly receded, and the Isabella passed the Alexander with comparative little damage. The last things that hooked each other were the two bower anchors, which, being torn from the bows, remained sus- pended in a line between the two ships, until that of the Alexander gave way. A clear channel soon after opened, and they ran into a pool, thus escaping immediate danger. Neither the masters, the mates, nor those men who had been all their lives in the Greenland service, had ever ex- *< u THU ARCTIC RSaiONS. 675 periencod siicli immense peril ; and tlicy declared, tliat a common whnler must have been crushed to atoms. It was soon after perceived, that a Beld of ice, to which they moored, was driftinc^ rapidly on a reef of icebergs which lay aground ; the topsails were therefore close-reefed, in order that they mit^ht run between two bergs, or into any creek that mi(;ht be found among them ; when sud- denly the field acquired a circular motion, so that every exertion was now necessary for warping along the edge, that being the sole chance they had of escaping the danget of being crushed on an iceberg. In a few minutes they observed a part of the field, into which they had attempted to cut docks, come in contact with the berg, with such rapidity and violence, as to rise more than fifty feet up its precipitous side, where it suddenly broke, the elevated part falling back on the rest with a terrible crash, and overwhelming with its ruins the very spot they had previ- ously chosen for their safety. Soon afterwards the ice appeared sufficiently open to pass the reef of bergs, and they once more were in a place of security On the 9th they were surprised by the appearance of several men on the ice, who were hallooing to the ships : ' the first impression was, that they were shipwrecked sailors, probably belonging to some vessel that had been crushed in the late gale ; they therefore tacked, hoisted their colours, and stood in for the shore. On approaching the ice, they discovered them to be natives, drawn on rudely-fashioned sledges, by dogs, wh'ch they continued to drive backwards and forwards with wonderful rapidity When they arrived within hail, Sacheuse called out to them, ill his own language : some words were heard in return, h which a reply was again made to the Esquimaux ; but /leither party appeared to be in the least degree intelligiblo to the other. For some time they continued to regard the ships in silence, but, on tacking, they set up a simulta- neous shout, accompanied with many strange gesticulations -STJ- 076 ROM's VnVAGB TO and went oflT in their sledgea with great velocity towards the land. It being necMsary to examine if there was a passage in this place, the ships stood towards the head of the pool, which was about fom* miles off*, trusting that, in the mean time, they would return to the same spot, to which it was also their intention to come back, after examining into the chances of a passage northward. No opening was^ how- ever, found ; and they therefore returned after an absence of ten hours. About ten o'clock on the following day, eight sledges appeared, driven by the natives, advancing by a circuitous route towards them ; they halted about a mUe off, and the people alighting, ascended a small iceberg, as if to re- connoitre. After remaining apparently in consultation for nearly half an hour, four of them descended, and came towards a flag-staff, which, however, they did not venture to approach. In the mean ilue a white flag was hoisted at the main in each' ship, and John Saoheuse dispatched, bearing a small white flag, with some presents, that he might endeavour, if possible, to bring them to a parley. This was a service which he bad most cheerfully voiun- teered, requesting leave to go unattended and unarmed, a request to which no objection could be made, as the place chosen for the meeting was within half a mile of the Isabella. It was equally advantageous to the natives, a canal, or small chasm in the ice, not passable without a plank, separating the parties from each other, and pre- venting any possibility of an attack from these people, un- less by darts. In executing this service, Sacheuse displayed no less address than courage. Having placed his flag at some distance from the canal, he advanced to the edge, and taking oif his hat, made friendly signs for those opposite to approach, as he did ; this they partly complied with, halting at a distance of three hundred yards, where they TUB ARCTIO mOIONn. «77 ^ot out of their sledges, and set up a loud simultaneous halloo, which Saoheuse answered by imitating it. They then ventured to approach a liUle nearer, having nothing in their hands but the wbipAwitb wbioh they guide their dogs i and, aflur satisfying themselves that the canal was impassable^, onet of I them in particular seemed to acquire eonQdence. Shouts, words, and gestures, were exchanged for some time !• no purpose, tliough each party seemed, in some degree, to recognise each other's language. Sa- uheuse^ after .la time, thought he could discover that they spokeu(b«iHuroool(e dialect, drawling out their words, bawQvei!, to an. unusual length. He immediately adopted that dialect, and, holding up the present, called out to them, Kahkeite, come on ! to which they answered, Naakrie, naakrieai-plaite, no, no — go away ; and other words which be made out to mean, that they hoped they were not come to destroy them. The boldest then approached to the edge of the canal, and drawing from bis boot a knife, repeated. Go away ; 1 can kill you. Sacbeuse, not inti- midated, tqld them be was also a man and a friend, and, at the same time, threw across the canal some strings of beads and a chequed shirt; but these they beheld with great dis- trust and apprehension, still calling. Go away, don't kill us., Sacbeuse, then threw tbem an English knife, saying. Take that. , On this they approached with caution, picked up the knife, then shouted and pulled their noses. These actions yieve imitated by Saoheuse, who in return, called out. Heigh, yaw! pulling his nose with the same gesture. They now pointed to the shirt, demanding what it was, and wheA told iit was. an article vf clothing, asked of what skin It was,mad(e. Sacbeuse replied,. It was made of the hair of an animal which they had never seen ; on which they picked ct up with expressions of < surprise. They now began to j»sk many. questioAs } for, by this time, tb!i, with some caps and shirts. By the time they reached them the whole party were assembled ; those who had been ori- ginally left at a distance with their sledges, having driven up to join their comrades. The party now therefore con- sisted of eight natives, with uU their sledges, and about fifty dogs, two sailors, Sacheusc, Lieutenant Parry, and C iptain Ross ; forming a group of no small singularity, which was not a little increased by the circumstance of the meeting taking place on a field of ice and at a considerable distance from the land. Perceiving that the natives were considerably alarmed Sacheuse called to them to pull their noses, as he had dis- covered this to ue the mode of friendly salutation with these people. This ceremony was* accordingly performed by each of the party ; the natives also retreated, making use of the same gesture, the nature of which was now well understood. In the same way the English party imitated their shouts as well as they could, using the same expression Heigh, yaw ! which appeared to be an expression of surprise and plea- sure. Captain Ross then advanced towards them, and presented the foremost with a looking gloss and a knife, re- peating the same presents to the whole, as they came up in succession. Having now acquired confidence, they ad- vanced, offering, in return for knives, glasses and beads, their knives, sea-unicorns horns and sea-horse teeth, which were accepted. One of them having enquired what was the use of a red cap which had been given him, Sacheuse put it on his head, to the great amusement of the rest, each of whom put it on in his turn. The whole party now pro- ceeded to the ships. Their shouts, halloos and laughter were heartily joined in, and imitated by all hands, as well as the ceremony of nose pulling. That which most of all excited I '''(I * THE ARCTIO IlfOIONS. €71) d floma id them, knivws, led them been ori- g driven fore con- nd about Wry, and rtgularity, ce of the Dsiderable j alarmed, e had dis- with these ed by each • use of the understood, ir shouts as leigh, yaw l and plea- them, and a knife, re- came up in e, they ad- and beads, teeth, which what was the sacheuse put •est, each of ly now pro- aughter were IS well as the ,1" all excited their admiration, was the circiimNtnncc of a iiailor goini; aloft, uiid they kept their «'yeH on him till he reached the sumniitof tlic niatit ; (lie sails which hung loose they sup- posed to be ttkins. They wero now loaded with vnriou!4 presents, consisting of some articles of clothing, biscuit, and pieces of wood, in addition to wbich tliu plank (hat had been used in crossing the chasm, was given (o them. They (hen de- parted, promising to re(urn as suon as (hey had ea(en and 8lep(, as (here was nu menns of t xpliining (o tliem what to-morrow meant. The parting was attended with the ce« remony of pulling noses on both sides. After (hey had reached and crossed (he chasm, they were observed by some men, who had been sent to accompany them, throwing awny the biscuit, and splitting the plank, wbich was of tcnk, into small pieces, for the purpose of dividing it among the party. Soon after this they mounted their slodges, and drove oil' in a body, hallooing apparently in great glee. On the 13th they were gratified by the appearance of three of the natives at a distance. Preparations were n;ade for continuing their intercourse, if they should prove to bo the same as had been seen before, or for obtaining a parley, if they should prove to be stranijiMS. The riiig-staff, as on a former occasion, was, therefore, pitched at some distance from tlio ships, and the natives were shortly seen (o approach it, without mucli ttesitation or alarm. They were observed to take down the bag that was attached to it ; but after examining the contents, they restored (hem to their place, and returned to tlieir sledges. Sacheuse was then furnished with presents, and sent to speak ^vith them. He found immediately that they were not their old friends, but other natives, who had received a good report of them, together with (he his(ory of their bning people (hat lived beyond the ice, and that this bad prevented any alarm. f'l * 680 ROSS S VOYAOff TO It being proposed that they should drive close tn tiie ship on their sledges, the eldest got into his sledge, for this pVir* pose, and they had thus an opportunity of witnessing the mode in which he naanaged his dogs. These were six in number, each having a collar of seal-skin, two inches wide, to which, the one end of a thong, made of strong hide, about three yards long, was tied, the other end being fastened to the fore part of the sledge : thus they all stood nearly abreast, each drawing by a single trace, without reins. No sooner did they hear the crack of the whip, than they set off at full speed, while he seemed to manage them with the greatest ease, guiding them partly by his voice, and partly by the sound of the whip. On approaching the sailors, however, they became so terrified, that it was with some difficulty they could be stopped. They were at length fastened to the ice, and one of*the younger men, who had come up behind, was left in charge of the whole. When Sacheuse was desired to ask if they had a king, he pronounced the words Nullikab, signifying a person in au- thority ; then Nakouack, i. e. a strong man, who can kill more seals, and is respected or dreaded ; but they did not understand him. He at last recollected that Pisarsuak had been used as the name of chief ; they immediately answered in the atfirmative, and said his name was Tulloowak. It was about three o'clock when they departed, highly pleased. The ice being covered with small protuberant bergs, they were soon lost sight of as they drove away towards the shore ; to gain which, they were obliged to fol- low a very circuitous route; this arose from a number of pools and chasms in the ice,, as it was evident that they were only three or four miles from the land in a direct line. The greatest number of natives seen was about eighteen ; many attempts y?ere made to discover the numbers of the tribe, but without success, as they could reckon no farther than five, and could therefore only say, " plenty people," THE ARCTIC RF.GIONS. G81 pointing to the north ; hut it mu^t be recollected, that thia was only a party detached from the main body. The ships being again under sail, with more cheering prospects before them, proceeded along the margin of the ice, where it appeared attached to the land, with a fine breeze from the north. In about two hours they arrived at the barrier of icebergs. Having passed through many in- tricate and narrow channels, at four o'clock they rounded a cape, which they named after the Duke of York, in com- memoration of the birth-day of His Royal Highness. The land, from this cape, took a W. by N. direction; they conti- nued to steer along it, at the distance of four miles, and, for the first time, saw the sea wash the rocks. August 17tb, they continued their course along the land, at the distance of five or six miles, among numerous bergs and pieces of loose ice. They discovered that the snow on the face of the cliffs presented an appearance both novel and interesting, being apparently stained, or covered, by some substance, which gave it a deep crimson colour. Many con- jectures were formed concerning the cause of this appear- ance ; it was at once determined, that it could not arise from the dung of birds, as thousands of these, of various descrip- tions, were seen repeatedly sitting on the ice, and on the snow, but without producing any such effect. A boat with Mr. Ross, Mr. Beverley, and others, was sent to bring off some of the snow, and to make their remarks on the circumstances attending it ; they were also ordered to procure specimens of natural history, and to ascertain if this part of the country was inhabited. The boat arrived at the shore nearly at low water, and found that the tide had fallen nine feet. The party remained two hours on shore, and found the cliffs were accessible at the spot where they landed ; but they did not get to the top, being recalled In consequence of a breeze which sprung up. They found that the snow was penetrated, in may places to a depth of ten or twelve feet, by the colouring matter, and that it had r V.29. 4 S 682 ROSS'S VOYAGK TO the appearnnce of having^ been a long time in that state. The boat returned at seven with a quantity of this snow, together with specimens of the vegetation, and of the rocks. The snow was examined by a microscope, magnifying 110 times, and the substance seemed to consist of particles resembling a very minute round seed, all of them being of the same size, and of a deep red colour ; on some of these globules a small dark speck was also seen. It was the general opinion of the officers that this was vegetable sub- stance, an opinion confirmed by the nature of the places where it was found. These were the sides of the hills, about six hundred feet high, the tops of which were covered with vegetation of a yellowish- green and reddish-brown colours. The extent of these clifTs was about eight miles ; behind them at a considerable distance, high mountains were seen, but the snow which covered these was not coloured. Some of the snow was dissolved, and bottled, when the water had ttre appearance of muddy port- wine. In a few hours it de- posited a sediment ; which was examined by tlie microscope ; same of it was bruised, and found to be composed wholly of red matter ; when applied to paper, it produced a colour resembling that of Indian red. This substance has been examined since the return of the shifis to this country, and various opinions given conoemirrg it, but Dr. Wollaston seems to concur in the opinion of its being a vegetable substance produced on the mountain immediately above it. It cannot be a murine production, as in several places they saw it at least six miles from the sea, but always on the face or near the foot of a mountain. In the course of their tedious and often laborious progresii tlirough the ice, it became necessary to keep the whole of the crew at the most futiguing work, sometimes for several days and nights without intermission. When this was the case, an extra raeal was served to them at midnight, gene- rally of preserved meat ; and it was found that this nou- rishment, when the mind and body were both occupied, and THE ARCTIC REOIONS. 663 the sun continually present, rendered them capable of re • waining without sleep, so that they often passed three days in this manner without any visible incouveuienoe ; returning after a naeal of this kind to their labour on the ice, or in the boats, quite refreshed, and continuing at it without a murmur. The exercise viob doubtless a consider- able preventive of the scurvy, which was the complaint roost to be feared. As long as the vegetables lasted, no lime- juice was served ; when the men got wet, which often hap- pened, they were made to shift their clothes and put on dry ones : caps of canvas, lined with flannel, were made for them ; these were conical in shape, and large enough to cover the shoulders, and button under the chin ; they had the effect of keeping the neck and breast warm, and being painted on the outside, turned the water off effectually ; they were made use of in rainy, snowy, or foggy weatiier. With these precautions, and the men being all of good constitution, they never had a sick person, and when they arrived at this part of their voyage, no crews were ever in higher health aud spirits. Lieutenant Robertson, and other officers, were stationed at the mast-head to look out for the direction of the coast ; and they made their reports that they were satisfied they had seen the land completely round this bay at different times; as did also the officers of the Alexander, who were at the mast-head of that ship at the same time. On the 10th of August, at fifty minutes past midnight the ship being nearly on the seventy • seventh degree of north latitude, ten leagues to the westward of Cape Sau- uiarex, which forms the east side and the bottom of this bay, (he land was distinctly seen. On the 'SOth and 21st, when off Cape Clarence, at the distance of six leagues, the land which forms the west side, and the bottom of this hay, was also distinctly seen, and by two observations the coast is determined to be connected all round. At each of tliesi: periods this immense bay was observed to be covered with 4 S 2 084 ROSS S VOVAOE TO field-ice; besides which, a vnst chain of inrge icebergs was seen to extend across it ; tliese Mrere npparently aground, and had probably been driven on shorfe there by southerly gales. It was also observed, that the tide rose and fell only four feet» and that the stream was scarcely perceptible. On the 20th, they were by reckoning, in latitude 76** 54' N., Cape Saumarez ten leagues distant, and Carey's Is- land bearing about S.E. Having determined that there was no passage further to the northward, they stood under easy sail to the S.W. for ten miles further, during which they had much difficulty to avoid the loose ice with which the sea was covered, and it becoming thicker the nearer they approached tlie shore, they hove to in this position, for the fog to clear away From these several considerations it appears perfectly certain that the land is here continuous, and that there i» no opening at the northernmost jiart of Baffin's Bay from Ilackhiit's Island to Cape Clarence. Even if it be ima- gined that some narrow Strait may exist through these mountains, it is clearly evident, that it must for ever be unnavigable, and that there is not even a chance of as- certaining its existence, since all approach to the bottoms of these bays is prevented by the ice which fills them to so great a depth, and appears never to have moved from its station. Being thus satisfied that there was no opening into the Pacific through these seas and that there could be no further inducement to continue longer in this place, and it being necessary to husband the little time yet remaining, for the work which was still to be done, Captain Ross ordered ac- curate bearings of the different headlands to be taken, and having named the remarkable cape forming the west side of the bay, after the Duke of Clarence, in commemoration of the birth-day of his Royul Highness, they shaped their course, on the morning of the 2lBt, towards the next open- ing which appeared in view to the westward. I t THE ARCTIC REOIOKS. 685 ebergs via» y aground, y southerly ind fell only eptible. Carey's Is- I that there stood under uring Mrhich e with which if the nearer position, for ars perfectly tliat tliere is n's Bay from if it be ima- Ihrough these for ever be chance of as- the bottoms Is thein to so Dved from its ning into the be no further and it being lining, for the ss ordered ac- )e taken, and 16 west side of memoration «f shaped their the next open - They now stood for a Sound which tbey had seen on the 21st, tacking and bearing up occasionally to avoid the ice, which was generally from six to twelve feet thick, very un- even, and in pieces of various shapes ; they found it impoS" sible to keep clear of it, and the ship unavoidably received some severe shocks, but fortunately suffered no damage. Towards the evening they successively made out the north and south points of the land across the bottom of this bay, or inlet, which agreed with Baffin's description of Joneses Sound. At midnight, a ridge of very high mountains was seen to extend nearly across the bottom of it, joining ano- ther from the south, which was not quite so high. The bay was completely blocked with ic, in which were some very large icebergs ; and from the points of land, glaciers of so- lid ice were seen extending for many miles into the sea. It was evident that there could be no passage in that direction, and they, therefore, began to beat to the southward. At eleveu at night, a piece of fir wood was picked up : it con- tained nails, and the marks of the plane and adze were also evident. This seems to prove that it must have drifted up the Bay, probably by the strong southerly winds. Many Beals were seen, and the tracks of bears were visible on the ice in many places. On the 30th of August, near a Cape which tbey named Cape Charlotte, a wide opening appeared ; but the wind shifting to the west, they could not stand in to explore it, and therefore stood to the southward; but, at ten in the evening, the wind changed to the south, when they tacked and stood in under all sail. The swell continued from the S.S.E., and, at midnight, the weather was very thick and foggy. They saw the land which forms the northern side of the opening, extending from west to north in a chain of high mountains covered with snow. Soon afterwards the south side of this opening was discovered extending from S.W* 086 ROSS'S VOYAGB TO to S.E, forming also n chain of very tiigli mountains. In the space l)etween west and soutli-wett, there appeared a yellow sliy, but no land was Been, nor was there any ice on the water, except a few icebergs ; the opening, therefore, took the appearance of a channel, the entrance of which was judged to be forty-five roilea wide ; the land on the north tide lying in an E.N.E and W.S.W. direction, and on the south side, nearly east and west. Having bad good observations for time, and a meridian altitude of the sun, the latitude and longitude were accu* rately determined ; and, at the same time, the bearings of the land wore taken and registered. Divine service was performed ; and, in the afternoon, the wind having obliged them to stand to the south side, they had an excellent view of the roost magnificent chain of mountains ever beheld. This, and the Cape which terminates it, and forms the east- ern extremity of the land on that side of the channel, was named after Sir Byam Martin, in compliment to the Comp- troller of His Msyesty's Navy ; and the various capes and bays in this tract of land, were also named after his amiable family and nearest relatives. These mountains, which take their rise from the sea, at Capo Byam Martin on the oast, and from a low plain near Catherine's Bay on the west, terniQate in sharp lofty peaks ; and the rocks which form them being, on one side or the other, and often on every side, too perpendicular for the snow to rest upon, they are distinctly seen above it, displaying very remarkable forms. In one place, nearly between Cape Fanshawe and Elizabeth's Bay, two rocks, resembling human figures of a gigantic size in a sitting posture, were seen on the higliest peak ; and, as it was considerably above the clouds, their appearance was both extraordinary and interesting. The sQow appeared to be deep in the valleys o^ the inte- rior, but the ravines next the sea were only partly filled with it, and the precipices near the foot of the mountains were perfectly bare. Tlic rest of the day was spent in beating to Tlin AnCTIC REGIONS. 687 ns. In •eared a y ice on iterefore, hich was he north id on tV»e i meridian ere accu- icarings of ■rvice was ng obliged ellent \ie^t ,er beheld. pas the east- liannel, was DthcCorop- is capes and . tiis aroiabie which take on the east, ,n the west, , which form len on every upon, they renaar^*^^*' 'ansbawe and in figures of a n the highest clouds, their jting. ^s of the inte- itly filled with juntains were ,t in beating to the westvrard. all sail was carried, and every advantage taken of the changes in the direction and strength of the ivind. As the evening closed the wind died away, the wea- ther became mild and warm, the water much smoother, and the atmosphere clear and serene. The mountains on each side of the Strait, being clear of clouds, display ^d various beautiful tints. For the first time they discovered that the laud extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent Strait, but the fog which continually occupied that quarter, obscured its real figure. During this day much interest was excited on buard by the appearance of this Strait ; the general opinion, however, was that it was only an inlet. The land was partially seen extending across, the yellow sky was perceptible; and, as they advanced, the tempera- ture of the water began to decrease. The mast-head and crow's nest was crowded with those who were most anxious, but nothing was finally decided at the setting of the sun. Soon after midnight the wind began to shift, and the ship came gradually up, enabling them to stand 'directly up the bay ; they, therefore, made all sail, and left the Alex- ander considerably astern. At a little before four o'clock, in the morning, the land was seen at the bottom of the inlet by the officers of the watch. Although a passage in this direction appeared hopeless, Captain Ross was determined to explore it completely, as the wind was favourable ; and, therefore, continued all sail. At eight the wind fell a little, and the Alexander being far astern, the Isabella sounded and found six hun- i^red and seventy-four fathoms, with a soft, muddy bottom. There was, however, no current, but the temperature of the mud was 20^^. Soon after this the breeze freshened and they carried all sail, leaving the Alexander and steering directly up the bay. The weather was now variable, being alternately cloudy and clear at intervals. Mr. Beverley, who was the most sanguine, went up to the crow's-nest ; and, at twelve, reported that before it became thick, be 688 RO»S'S VOYAGK TO had seen the land across the bay, except for a very short space. The land to the S.E. was very distinct, and they had an excellent transit and bearing of Cape Byam Martin and Cape Fanshawe, with the ship's head on the point of the change, for the purpose of determining the variation, should no azimuths be obtained. Although all hopes were given up, even by the most sanguine, that a passage existed, and the -weather continued thick, they determined to stand higher up, and put into any harbour they might discover, for the purpose of making magnetical observa- tions. As they stood up the bay two capes on the south side were discovered, one of which was named after the Earl of Liver- pool ; the land which formed the boundary on one side of Catherine's Bay, was named Cape Hay. On the north side a remarkable conical rock, the only island on this part of the coast, was discovered, and named Sir George Hope's Monument, afer one of the Lords of the Admiralty, who had recommended Captain Ross for the command of this ex- pedition, and whose signature of his orders on his death- bed was the last act of his valuable life. They distinctly saw the land round the bottom of the bay, forming a chain of mountains connected with those which extended along the north and south sides. This land ap- peared to be at the distance of eight leagues. There was a continuity of ice, at the distance of £even miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, between the nearest cape to the north, which was named after Sir George War- render, and that to the south, which was named after Vis- count Castlereagh. At a quarter past three, the weather again became thick and unsettled ; and being now perfectly satisfied that there was no passage in this direction, nor any harbour into which they could enter for the purpose of making magnetic obser- vations, tiiey tacked to join the Alexander which was at a dislunce of eight miles. TIIK ARCTI" r.BClONS. d80 They coiitiimed to procec('i until the 6th of September, when it became cahn : afterwai'ds there wore some hfi^ht nnd variable airs of wind. At eiglit it nied one hour for oil hands to pull it up from that depth. When the boat was off Agnes* Monument, they saw two large bears which swam off to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles from the land ; they fetched the Alexander, and were immediately attacked by the boats of that ship and killed ; one, which was shot through the head, unfortunately sunk ; the other, on being wounded atto.cked the boats and shewed considerable play, but was at length secured, and towed to the Isabella by the boats of both ships. In this affair, Mr. Bisson, Mr. Nius, mid- shipmen, and Mr. Fisher, assistant-surgeon of the Alex- ander, shewed much dexterity and address. This animal, weighed one thousand one hundred and thirty-one pounds and a half, besides the blood it had lost, which cannot be estimated at less than thirty pounds. Its dimensions were carefully taken, and Mr. Beverly undertook to preserve the skin, in which he perfectly succeeded ; the bones of the head and feet were also preserved in their places, so that be was sent to the British Museum in excellent order. On the 1.1th, seven leagues to the eastward of this rock, and at two miles distance, they discovered the largest iceberg in latitude 70 they had ever seen at such a distance from the land. As it was nearly culm, they determined on ascertaining its size, and sent Lieutenant Parry, Mr. Ross, and Mr. Bushman, and a boat with the necessary instruments, to obtain the magnetic dip of variation. Con< ■iderable ditliculty was experienced in the attempt to land, THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 601 IS lei ilown, to six liun- luusand, in ilie tlicrmo- thus prov- sr, and also ilic bottum, athuins. It p from that t, thej saw wiiich were they fetched I by the boats t througli the in<:f wounded play, but was a by the boats T. Niu8,mid- of the Alex- This animal, y-one pounds icli cannot be neusions were preserve the bones of Uie (laces, so that nt order. of this rock, d the largest iuch a distance determined on t Parry, Mr. the necessary riation. Con- ttempt to land, ns in rowin;^ round it they found it perpendicular in every place but one ; in this however there was a small creek, in which a convenient landing-place was discovered. When (hey had ascended tu the top, which waa perfectly flat, tliey discovered a white bear, who was in quiet posses- sion of (his mass. As their fire-arms had been wetted, it was some time before dispositions could be made for an attack, during which the animal seemed to wait with patience for the assault ; but as soon as they had formed their line and began to advance, he made for the other side of the island- The party had not calculated on any other way (o escape but the landing-place before mentioned, which they had left well guarded ; but to their mortification, as well as astonishment, when the animal came to the edge of the precipice, which was Bfty feet high, he plunged into the sea without hesitation, and there being no boat on that side of the island, he escaped. The party remained until «;uii-se(, ar-.ihad good observations ; and Lieutenant Parry reported, that the iceberg was four thousand one hundred and sixty-nine yards lung, three thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine yards broad, and fifiv-onc feet high ; being aground in sixty-one fathoms. Its appearance was much like that of the back of the Isle of Wight, and the cliffs ex- actly resembled the chalk cliiTs to the west of Dover. On the2oth of September, the slops which were supplied by Government for winter clothing were served to the ships* companies, orders being sent to Lieutenant Parry to that effect. The whole of this day the weatlu?r was so foggy that the land was completely obscured. On the 30th of October they made the island of Fula, and, passing between Fair Isle and Sumburg Head, ar- rived at Shetland, anchoring in Brussa Sound, after an absence of exactly six months. The Lerwick packet being about to sail for Leith, Captain Ross sent a short account of their proceedings to the Secretary of the Admiralty, for the information of their Lordships ; in which, after recom* 603 Rush*! VOYAOR. • ( HI I W mending tlin utlicerH nnd men of both Hhipn, for their me< riturious conduct, he concluded in the following wordu : — " Not an instance of punishment has tnken place in thif* ship, nor lius there been an oflicer, or man, on the nick list ; and it is with a feeling not to be expresHcd, that I conclude this letter, by reporting that the service has been performed, and that the expedition, which 1 had the honour to com- mand, has returned, without the loss of a man. I have, &c. J. Ross." On the 7th of November they sailed from Brassn Sound with a fair wind, which carried them otT Flamborougli Head, where they met with a strong breeze of N.E. wind ; and after beating for several days they anchored in Grimsby Roads, on the 14th of November. The logs, journals, charts, and other memoranda, being sealed, and collected from all the officers of the expedition. Captain Ross here left the ship and departed for London, where he arrived on the 16th, and delivered them with a full account of the proceedings to the Lords of the Admiralty. He was directed by Lord Melville to signify their Lord- ships approbation of the conduct of the officers nnd crews of the two ships ; and to acquaint them, that it was probable an expedition of a similar nature would be undertaken in the ensuing spring ; and that those who were desirous of volunteering their services, should have a preference over all others, should be found employment during the winter, granted a montli's leave of absence, and kept in pay until the ships were ready for receiving men ; upon whicli nearly the whole volunteered, and the Isabella and Alexander were paid ofi'on the 17th of December. ^. THE END their me- noTiU :— ce in thin Mick liat ; conclude erformeil, ir to com- J. Robs." lisn Soiuul iiiiboroiigli .E. vi\nA ; n Grimsby , journals, d collected 1 Ross here arrived on unt of the their Lord- 9 nnd crews as probable dertaken in desirous of urence over ; the winter, ill pay until fi\\'\d\ nearly I Alexander