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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 DOCKS. WHAHVKS, i bOOM DAM OF THE ANCIKN T CITY OK NORUMUEGA, ON 'I'HE CHARLES RIVER AT VVATERTOWN, MASS. BOOM DAM ON COLD SPRING BROOK, OPPOSITE WATERTOWN. THE DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. a Communtcatfon TO THE PRESIDENT AND COUNCIL OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY AT THEIR SPECIAL SESSION IN WATERTOWN, November 21, 1889. BY EBEN NORTON HORSFORD. BOSTON AND NEW YORK : HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY. Cite Bitotrsilic Prceti, (JDambrtUfft. 1890. ( i ^nifaraits Wrm: John Wilson and Son, Cambridgb. M PREFACE. The demand for the communication regarding the site of the ancient city of NoRUMDEGA, made on the 21st of November last to the American Geographical Society at its special session in Watertown, has led me to anticipate, in some degree, the publication long promised of the results which the study of the interesting problem of the lost city and country has yielded. That paper is in press, but must wait for a time. Mean- while I have thought to attach a few of its illustrations to the story recently presented, and place the publication where it may be found by persons interested; and further, to produce the paper, without the illus- trations, in a less expensive form. E. N. H. Cambridok, Jan. 1, 1890. iTw»i>»i^CH5;'";r!-scs THE DISCOYERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. JuDGK Dalt, President of the American Geographical Soeicti/ : It is now nearly five years since I discovered on the banks of Charles River the site of Fort Norumbega, occupied for a time by the Bretons some four hundred years ago, and as many years earlier still built and occu- pied as the seat of extensive fisheries and a settlement by the Northmen. It is nearly as long since that discovery was the subject of a communica- tion which I had the honor to address to you, in your official capacity, on the first of March, 1885, which coirnnunication was published in the October Bulletin of the American Geographical Society of the same year. I have to-day the honor of announcing to you the discovery of Vinland, including the Landfall of Leif Erikson and the Site of his Houses. I have also tc announce to you the discovery of the site of the ancient City of Norumbega. To perpetuate the date of these accessions to geography, a Tower has been set up at the site of Fort Norumbega, where I first found remains of the work of the Northmen. It had been proposed to accompany the unveiling of the Tablet on the Tower just completed with a summary account of the way by which ft G DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMUEGA. I had been conducted to my later discovery, tc^rctlicr with other exer- cises appropriate to tlie occasion, — inehiding a Poem rehearsing the story of the Vinhind Sagas, and music contributed by our Scandinavian friends and by a party of ladies from Norutnbega Hall of VVellesley College, so called in honor of the discovery which was counnunicated to the public at about the time the corner-stone of the Hall was laid. But the lateness of the season has made the outdoor gathering impracticable, and an invitation has been accepted to meet in this hall. As the Geographical Society has consented to give the occasion the honor of its ofhcial presence as at a special meeting convened to receive the announcement of the discoveries, I ask permission to lay before you copies of the maps, ancient and modern, charts, sketches, photographs, drawings, manuscripts, original plans and surveys, which I have gathered for the study of the problems of Vinland and Norumbega and for the purpose of illus- trating the detailed papers now in press, with iha request that they be regarded as an earnest of the later presentation of the results of my work, in print, to the Society. I have to ask your further permission to present here and now a sum- mary of the course of my more recent investigation, which has resulted in the discovery of the site of the City of Norumbega. JUDGE DALY'S REPLY. Professor Horsford, — Allow me to say, on behalf of myself and colleagues, that it affords us great pleasure to congratulate you on your discovery. When you made your communication five years ago to the American Geographical Society, I was inclined to think that the facts then presented created a strong probability that the locality indicated DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBKGA. by you was in the region where the Northmen settled in this country ; and tlio furtlicr and more extensive researches you have since made con- firm that concluHion. It is especially interesting at this period, when wo are preparing to celebrate the lour hundredth anniversary of the discovery of this continent by Columbus, that the facts you have ascer- tained should be brought to light in connection with this earlier discovery of America. We have hitherto but inadequately appreciated the North- men as a race, — their adventurous spirit, their capacity, and the degree of civilization to which they had attained in an age when Europe was but emerging from the darkness that had enveloped it for many centuries. Trof. A. II. Siiyce, the learned Assyrian scholar, in a recent paper has declared, and given his reasons for, his belief that the primitive home of the Aryans — the central point of the departure or migration of that great civilizing race that at a very early period spread over the whole of Persia and India, and to the westward over the whole of Europe and America — was not, as has hitherto been supposed, the country lying on the slopes of the mountains of the Hindoo Kush, between the head-waters of the rivers Saxartes and the Oxus, but was some place in the south- eastern part of Scandinavia; which would make the Northmen itte pro- genitors of the Greeks, the Romans, and, with the exception of one or two races, of all the nations of modern Europe; which, if further re- searches should establish to be the fact, would make tLem the greatest race in the history of mankind. Du Chaillu, in his recent work on the Viking Age and the Ancestors of the English-speaking People, — a people now so widely distributed over the surface of the glol)0, — refers to those countries in the north of Europe from which the Northmen came as the birthplace of a new epoch in the history of mankind. All this is very interesting in connection with what is now generally admitted, — that America was discovered by the Northmen ! i'JLk^i -;>i«!g&-; 8 DISCOVEUY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMHEOA. five centuries before the arrival of Columbiis, and that for a considerable period thereafter they maintuined a aettlenient upon our northeastern coast, and V nt up during that time an intercourse with the niotlier country. It remains only in conclusion, Sir, that I should express my high appreciation of your labors and of the result that has followed them, and of your liberality in the lofty, characteristic, and imposing Tower that you have caused to be erected, to mark one of the places where the Northmen dwelt, and to commemorate these discoveries. STORY OF TnE DISCOVERY OF NORUMBEGA. As we all know, there have been before the world for many Bcores of years, in some instances for as many centuries, certain grand geographical problems, challenging the spirit of research, the love of adventure, or the passion for discovery or conquest. They are such as these: Where was Atalautis? Where was the Ultima Thule ? What is there at the North Pole ? Was there a Northwest Passage ? Where were the Seven Cities ? Where were the El Dorado of Raleigh, and the Landfalls of Leif Erik- eon, of Columbus, of John Cabot, of Verrazano ? And where were Vinland and Norumbega ? The number of unsolved problems is steadily lessening. The last two mentioned are soon, with your consent, Mr. President, to be withdrawn from the colunm. I might, perhaps, say something concerning the other themes that have been named, which inight interest you, and properly claim recognition at the outset of a story of geographical discovery. But you will, I am sure, prefer to anything else I might say here and to-day, a plain statement of the reasons for the faith that moved mo to set up a Tower in Weston, at the junction of Stony Brook with the Charles. A wish that falls in so wholly with my sense of the requirements of the occasion leaves me no alternative. I will attempt to comply with it as best I may, asking yoiu' indulgence for the repetitions I cannot escape in telling the story of how I found the seat of the earliest European colony in the New World. Most who hear me will doubtless connect their first conception of Norumbega with the well-known poem of Whittier. You will not have li I i -ii«^__ *, '■j^f.'H, ;.•►-' 10 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. forgotten how, as you read the poem, your sympathies went out to tlie Christian Knight, faint with his fruitless quest for a marvellous city of which he had heard, — a city of towers and spires and gilded domes, and a fine people, rich in furs and pearls and precious stones ; nor how, as the pomp and splendor of a dying October day fiidcd from his sight, and with it, in his rapt vision, the possible goal of his hopes, he exclaimed, almost in his latest breatli, — " I fain would look, before I die. On Norumbega's walls." ' I have recently received the following letter from Mr. Whittier : Amesbury, Oct. 30, 1889. Dear Friend, — That adventurous Scandinavians visited New England and attempted a settlement here hundreds of years before Columbus, is no longer a matter of doubt. I had supposed that the filmed city of Norura- bega was on the Penobscot, when I wrote my poem some years ago ; but I am glad to think of it as on the Charles, in our own Massachusetts. Thy discovery of traces of that early settlement at the mouth of Stony Brook and at "Watertown is a matter of great archjBological interest, and the memorial Tower and Tablet may well emphasize the importance of that discovery. Regretting that I am unable to witness the unveiling of the Tablet, I am Very truly thy friend, John G. Whittier. You may have heard of Roberval, a French admiral, as the Lord of Norumbega ; or you may remember Milton's reference in " Paradise Lost " to the "icy blasts from the north of Norumbega;" or you may have 1 Tlio poem as published was preceded by a paragraph which read as follows : " Norumbega is the name given by early French explorers to a fabulous countrj- south of Capo Rreton, first discovered by Verrazano in l'y2l. It was supposed to have a magnificent city of the same name on a great river, probably the Penobccot. The site of this barbaric city is laid down on a map published at Antwerp in 1570. In 1G04 Champlain sailed in search of the northern Eldorado, twenty-two leagues up the Penobscot from the Isle Haute. lie snpixised thq river to be that of Norumbega, but wisely came to the conclusion that those travellers who told of the great city had never seen it. He s.iw no eridences of anything like civilization, but mentions the finding of a cross, very old and mossy, in the woods." DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMHEGA. 11 read of Norumbega, the "Lost City of New England," by the Rev. Dr. De Costa; or you may recall that about four years ago there was some- thing in the local papers about the Landfall of John Cabot in 1497, and the site of Norumbega. Much of what I have recalled to you referred to the region not re- mote from our own. The old fort at the foot of the Tower concealed within its walls the entrance to the pathway that led to the desert's secret, which the Norman Knight sought for in vain. The secret was won only after protracted siege. It was a most fascinating bit of conquest ; it had the charm that gathers about the finding of long-lost treasure, something of the rapture that comes with the witnessed fulfilment of prophecy. The story of Norumbega was old, — very old for Massachusetts. Its antiquity may have furnished reason for believing the story to have had some foundation in truth. It had at least this : An Englishman had left a record of having seen a city bearing the name Norumbega, and the city was three quarters of a mile long. This man — David Ingram, a sailor — had been set on shore by Sir John Hawkins, in 1568, at Tampico, on the Gulf of Mexico, with some hundred and twenty others, in stress for lack of provisions. He had wandered all the way across the country, visiting many large Indian towns, and coming at length, in 1509, to the banks of Norumbega. He sailed in a French ship from the Harbor of St. Mary's (one of the earlier names of Boston Bay), a few hours distant from the Norumbega he visited, and ultimately got back to England, where he again met and was kindly received by Sir John Hawkins. He told a story that surpassed belief. He had seen monarchs borne on golden chairs, and houses with pillars of crystal and silver. He had visited the dwelling of an Indian chief, where he saw a quart of pcarh ; and when his listeners jnurmured, he capped the relation with the statement that in one cMef's house he had seen a peck of pcnrk. He was brought in audience before Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the kinsman of Sir Walter Raleigh. Thevet, who had been at Norumbega, on the banks of what he pronounced " one of the most beautiful rivers in all the world," and who had not I If fct^Lv'' •►"^■■'"■•'. .V* ii^^m^&ama^imimism^ 12 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. improbably been at the mouth of Stony Brook, was present, and confirmed Ingram in part. Coronado's experiences in New Mexico, 1540, enable us to confirm him in more ; and the brilliant researches of Mr. Gushing of Zuui memory and achievement, and the collections of Professor Putnam of the Peabody Museum at Cambridge, enable us to comprehend most of the remainder of his relation. There were pearls; they were found in fresh-water clams (Unios). They are gathered by the peck at the West to-day; the Peabody Museum has half a bushel of them taken from an Ohio mound by Professor Putnam. And there were furs. French mer- chants (I have it from the historian of New France) in one year burned two hundred thousand beaver skins to keep the price np. These furs came from the land of the Bretons, — from here. And there were precious stones, — turquoise and onyx and garnet : I have samples of them. And there were ornaments of copper and silver and gold : they are found in Ohio mounds to-day. The pillars of quartz crystal and columns of wood wrapped with thin sheets of silver and even of gold, I can credit, from what I have personally seen in some parts of Mexico. On festive occa- sions such sheets were displayed, so Mr. Gushing tells us, as flags are with us in honor of a day or of an event. Much of what Ingram related was what he had seen. Of some things related by him he had evidently only heard : the stories of the Incas of Peru and of the Montezumas of Mexico weie among them. Ilis hardships had brought confusion to his memory. Hakluyt wrote a book (carefully edited by the late Dr. Gharlcs Deane, and published by the Maine Historical Society) to induce England to under- take the colonization of the country of Norumbega. Its discovery entered into some of the plans for penetrating the Northwest Passage. Sir Hum- phrey Gilbert lost his life in an expedition undertaken in part to find Norumbega. I have many ancient maps on which Norumbega as a coun- try is as prominent as New Spain or New France or Virginia, as well as many others having devices indicating a city against the name of Norumbega, subordinate to the name of Norumbega as a province. All these belong to the class of old recorded stories ; mobt of them ! DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 18 were in print before the landing of the Pilgrims. One could not help thinking that they must have some foundation in truth; the alternative involved too many conspirators, of different nationalities. Champlain at the opening of the seventeenth century came, under Admiral Dc Monts, to our coast, and spent a good portion of three years exploring the bays and headlands and islands from Cape Cod to the Bay of Fundy, and studying the people and the products of the soil. The literature of geography was familiar to him. He tried to find Norumbega. He felt that somewhere there might be found the remains of a city. He went many leagues up the Penobscot from its mouth, but found nothing. He left the name on his map in the region where he sought for the city, about the mouth of the great river, but recorded his conviction that those who described it had not seen it. This learned and conscientious explorer justly commanded confidence wherever his publications were read. His readers felt his doubts. Lescarbot became merry over what he thought the delusion. Still, Cupt. John Smith hoped to find the city or country ; and for a long time, down nearly to the end of the seventeenth century, the name of Norumbega appeared on Dutch maps. It appeared even on occa- sional maps of the eighteenth century. But at length it was to be found only in ancient history or geography, and in the name of a noble Hall set up by the public-spirited citizens of Bangor. Let us look a little further at the foundation of the old story; we shall, after all, find it quite substantial. Verrazano, in 1524, came up to the angle of the Charles at Cambridge City Cemetery, near the remains of the then still standing Norman Villa, on Maiollo's map, which seems to have occupied the site of Leifs houses. He found and left us the name Norumbega in oranbeja, — the initial N accidentally obliterated from the map, and the m of the second syllable replaced by Ji, as given on his brother's map, — near the ancient St. John's Harbor, our modern Gloucester. Not far from Cape Ann, on the local map of Essex County of to-day, we have Norman's 0, uniformly called Norman's Woe, and also Norman's Cove, of palpable Norse derivation. V._-, -.. ^^/.^r'i^L ^J i 14 DISCOVEUY OP THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. Thus we have from an early date evidences that Northmen have been on our coast.^ A little later Parmentier, in 1539, found the name Norurabega applied to a land lying southvvest-a-quarterwest from Cape Breton. Allefousce under Kobervul, in 1543, determined the fact of there being two Cape Bretons (the source and the explanation of any number of mistakes in cartography), of which the more southern, referred to by Parmentier, was in the forty-third degree, and identical with Cape Ann. Within the limits of this forty-third degree was a river, at the moutli of which, according to AUefonsce, were many rocks and islands (Minofs Lodge, Cohasset rocks, the Lizard, the Roaring Bulls, the Graves, etc.), up which river, as AUefonsce estimated, Jlfteen leagues from the mouth, was a city ivhich is called Norum- Icgue. " Tliere was," he said, " a Jine people " at Ihe city; " and they had furs of many animals, and loore mantles of marten skins." AUefonsce, a pilot by profession, has never been doubted. On him, more than on any one else, rest the identity of one of the Cape Bretons witli Cape Ann, and the fact of there being a river, with a city on its banks, both bearing the name Norumboga, between Cape Ann and Cape Cod. I procured from the Bibllothfique Nationale a photographic coi)y of the original pen-made map, and of manuscripts of AUefonsce, that I might consult the original. There is no room whatever for question that a few leagues up a river having many rocks and islands at its mouth, in the forty- third degree, there was in 1543 a fine city called Norumbegue. In proof of this I might quote many authorities, if time permitted.^ Wytflict, in 1597, in an augment to Ptolemy, says: " Noromboga, a beautiful city, and a grand river are well known." He gives on his map a picaire of a settlement, or villa, at the junction of two streams, one of which is the Rio Grande. Here, as we shall see later, was a great fishery, and of course dwellings and appurtenances to domestic life for persons ' Weliavc other names of Norse deriv.ition in Massachusetts; as for example, Nanset, Naumkeacr Naumlx'.ik, Namskaket, and Amoskcag. » Among them are I'tolcmy, Uamusio, Mercator, Lok, Maginn, Plancio, and Solis. DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 15 eno-ao-ed in the industry. I have framed into the Tower the stone mortar in use at the settlement. Wytfliet on his map had confounded the hum- bler settlement with the city. There had been some misapprehension. Thevet in his text places " Fort Norombegue " at the point where stands the Tower, and where Wytfliet placed the city,— at the junction of two streams ; and so the two together led me into temporary misapprehension. The fort was occupied in Thevet's time as a trading-post by the Breton French. To them was ascribed the construction of the fort. Thevet says further : " To the north of Virginia is Norumbega, which is well known as a beautiful city, and a great river ; still one cannot find whence its name is derived, for the natives call it Agguncia.^ At the entrance of the river there is an island very convenient for the fishery." lie describes the fort as surrounded by fresh water and at the junction of two streams. The City of Nonnnheija on his map was lower down the river.^ Tlie French who occupied the fort called it Fort Norombegue. It was surrounded both by a ditch and a stockade. The ditch remains. It was largely what Allcfonsce (1543) and Thevet (1556), who were on our coast as explorers, wrote, and what was pictured on Wytfiiet's map, that led to my finding the fort. When 1 had deduced from the literature of geography that the fort was at the mouth of Stony Brook, I drove directly there, and found it on my first visit. But I early found, besides the fort, the evidences, long unintelligible to me, of a great industry (to which I have alluded), involving, among other things, graded areas some four acres in extent, paved with field bowlders. It was a most extraordinary display, to which I may refer later. As already remarked, after Champlain, — known, as he was, as a most competent explorer and conscientious man, whose itinerary was most full and clear and painstaking, and whose maps were without precedent for palpable evidences of care, — after Champlain and the publication of his unsuccessful > Iroquois for " head," — which applies to a great rock in tlie margin of tlie pavement of the fisheries), and now at one end of the reservoir d.im. a The settlement at the junction o£ tliu two streams, and the site of tlie city lower down are given on the maps of both Thevet and Mercator : ^^m M"i ^^ ^ fc »^ <*'rf- iVte/4 n 16 DISCOVERY OF THE AXCIENT CITY OF NOUUMBECrA. exploration of the Penobscot, belief in the existence of the City of No- rumbeg'a came to be generally less confident, and finally, as Dr. Palfrey's " History " shows, to be practically abandoned. To one modern writer more than to any other we are indebted for keep- ing the story of Norumbega alive. Rev. Dr. De Costa, at that time editor of the " American Magazine of History," wrote and published a few years ago the most fascinating story of the " Lost City of New England." lie wrote and printed several papers, gathering together for preservation the scattered fragments of legends and history bearing on the subject. His conviction, however, like that of Champlain and all other personal explorers, except Allefonsce and Thevet, was that if the ruins of the city were ever to be anywhere found, they would be on the Penobscot, where our grand old Poet placed it. Yet every rood of the Penobscot to its extreme source has been scoured in the search, and no trace of the remains of a city has been found. There still exist on that noble river evidences of what the story grew fiom which was told to Champlain, — among them the name of Nolambeghe, preserved or known to the Indians of to-day (Votromille), and the name Baya del Loreme on many ancient maps, as well as other names of Norse derivation on local maps of Maine ; but time will not permit us to pursue them. As the lost city was not on the Penobscot, and as it was not thought pos- sible that it could exist elsewhere, the search was at last given up. So Norumbega was lost. In view of the great interests involved, one might almost wish — say you? — that it could have remained lost for a few years longer. In my judgment, however, if it were possible to-day to prove that the Phoenicians visited and long occupied parts of this country, or that this country was the Atalantis of Pliny and Solon, — either or both of them would dim, by the measure of the faintest Indian-summer haze only, the transcendent glory of the life-work of Columbus. But there was another country lost, — lost from a still earlier period. This was Vinland. Or it may perhaps more correctly be said that it is only ./ u / 1 ^ -4 RIVER FLOWING THROUGH A LAKE INTO THE SEA' VINLAND OP THE NORTHMEN (•^ijiiecl tlj^flftr Ii^sl.riicTliorji fey Geo. DaVis, Civil Er^^iijeer. » /■> n Scale of fviiies. * = Jiyt Of Lrif'6 floJsE^. CI 51 < -^ # ^-'^'^ )>■•: A ^ -^ #;> '^^ «1 /<) H 7 >l y ( I f / (.() HV >* « i: v rJ A\/ ,,ttlMil.lt,ii . .i'.«.'L8BO"'»' y I. I: / X \- T .1 \ M A L DEN ifitaMMMi Humyrt Pr'h tinoCo Boarw ■NMB ^n*> CI Y II Itl DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMUEOA. 17 recently tlmt it hnn been diHCOvcrod un.l dotnonstr.ite.l that there had ccr- tainly been a country hereabout to which the Northmen came, nine hundred ^'"doT'ou anticipate me by exdaiming that Vinland and Norumbcga are identical? „ , ,. . ^. „ But between such conclusion and the date of the earlier conviction of what miKht bo found by research lay four years of almost constant study nnd norsonal exploration, with the co-operation of the engineer and drau.ditsman an<l photographer at almost every Btep. I only felt that I saw the end ahnost from the beginning, and lodged a caveat four years ago in connection with the Norse name of Cape Cod,-Kjalarnes, -and waited I repeated my conviction more than once in my mldress at the unveiling of the statue to Leif in Boston two years ago. And if I tell you now that I have found the ancient city of Nonunboga, as well as the /.•/ and the n.cr and the country of Norumboga, and learned somewhat of their marvellous history, -it will, 1 hope, ''^^Ip ^<^ «'^° -^'"" ^"^"''^"'^ '" ^^'"'' ''''^' '"' '" unfoUiin.' of a relation which I cannot much shorten, much less omit. Lot me tell you of a little prediction that I made at a certam early stage of my research, which, if my reasoning from data discovere.l were correct, must be realized, and which may help to give you patience as well as cour- acre It was the test of the trustworthiness of my method of research. 1 said' to myself and to my household : " If T am correct, every tributary to the Charles will be found to have, or to have had, a dam and a pond, or their equivalent, at or near its mouth or along its course." That was ,ny prophecy. One may study its fulfilment on either side of the river from its mouth to its source, at one's leisure. It was long after this pre- diction that I found its verification at every point I examined, even as iar as fiftv miles from its mouth along the Charles, in MiUis; and, f\irther still in Ilolliston. The reasoning that led up to necessary dams and ponds at or near the mouths of the tributaries led with like force to a great dam on the Charles itself; and that is also open to your study. On the Tablet of the Tower one may read that Norumbega was the name w mmi0''t* s^. iiMn 18 DISCOVEUY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMnEGA. of a fort nt the hnno of the Tower, of tlio river llowinp past im, of a city on it« banks, and of a country that rcachus from Lon;^ Ishiml Si>uii<l to tlio St. Lawrence ; and that unuiiHtakablo renuuns of tlio peoplu who oecupicd the country are strewn throughout this vast region. And to bo still more specific, I niny say there is not a scpiare mile of the bosin of the Charles that does not contain incontestable meiiiorialH of these people, that will pres- eiitly be as obvious to others a.s they now are to me. Shall I tell you at the outset why this has not boon known before ? It was a secret that, among other things, lay hidden in the signification of two or three Algonquin roots. You are all familiar with the fact that the organs of speech of different peoples differ more or less. The German has ditliculty with our pronuncia- tion, and we with the German ; the Hawaiian language, like the Italian, is marked by the frequent recurrence of vowels ; some persons lisp ; vi and n are sometimes confounded with each other, as b and ]) are, and, as the Chinese illustrate to us, I and r; so too h and v, u and iv, arc intercliange- able.' The early settlers said Marvill Head where we say Marble Head." The Dutch have difTiculty with the English h. v, and to. Lonf ago — he has been dead a hundred years — a Moravian mission- ary, Zeisberger, a German, came to this country, and noted a peculiarity in Algonquin speech. Heckewelder, another German, remarked the same thing. Du Ponceau, a Frenchman, observed it. This peculiarity was that the Indians of the tribes of the Algonquin family, which prevailed through- out New England, could not, — I bog you specially to remark it,— could not utter tlio sound of h without prefixing to it the sound of m ; so that in uttering hi, the word that means " water," the Indians said vihi, — ]mt as the Latins, possibly preserving the same root rnhi (autochthonous of old), said imhibn, "to imbibe or drink ;" jast as the Greek sailors who come to our capital city speak of coming to rtiBoston ; just as in Central » Rog( r WilH.ims imticrd among the tritms of Indians, even in i lacps within forty miles square of area, that /, n, and r were dialeotic equivalents in the Indian name o£ " dog." ' See Wood's New England's Prospect. DI8C0VKUV OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOHl'MnEOA. 19 and South Atncrica and in great portionH of Africa ono may find to-day in niiiDcs of purHons and phiooH b precuilod by m. (Suo Stanley's naincH, und r)ii (Jliaillit's and ISrintun'M, and naniCH in niiHHionary rccurdH.) Many lanidred years ago the country we call Norway was called Nor- begia' and Norboga," which are the Hanie philologically — om we have just seen — as Noruega, or Norvega, or Norwega ; the b is the equivalent of u, or V, or ir. The people of Norway settling in a newly diHcovcrcd country claimed the sovereignty of that country. Vinland belonged to Norway, — that is, Norbega. But the Indians among whom the Norwegians came, could not, as we have seen, utter the sound of li without putting the sound of m before it. They could not readily say Norbcya, but said, because it was easier of utterance, Nor' inhega. This was the name later given by the natives wherever along the coast, from Cape Cod to the St. Lawrence, explorcM-s asked the name of the country occupied l)y the Norwegians. In answer to such questions the natives gave the name that hud so long before been conferred, — Normhcga. This name seems to have been u.sed in the sense of " l)elonging to Norway." Portuguese, Spanish, Italian, French, Dutch, and Pjiiglish navigators coming to our .shores spelled the name Xur' inbign variously. So we had Xnnnuhcga ; we had the « in it replaced by o, a, e, and /; and wo had fxya replaced by bcffiic and dec and Ixtfffi, etc. Chauiplain left the name of the country about the Penobscot Xarunhcrt/ue. On one map only have I found Xiiriiibct/a. On three maps, obviously copies of a common original, I have found at the same point, respectively, Norvega, Noruega, and Norumbega.^ These three names on the separate maps were all alike in Nova Francia (New France). Now, in 1524, after the Northmen in the basin of the Charles had moved northward, pursuing their industries along the coast, some naturally becom- ing merged in the Indian people, Verrazano, the Italian explorer under ' Socs Hordono. " .See Mac;iiin. • Norvoga wa.s Norl)i'gi\, as Sovastoiwl \v,is Scbnatnpol. or as Ilibero w.%s Uivoro ; iviid Norlioffa bccamo Nor'mbega, as Hoston tn-cotnes 'mUoston. Urotius and Forster recognized the iwssible identity of Norwega witli Noruinboga. Vw..' [fy^ 20 DISCOVEUY OF THE ANCIEN'T CITY OF NORUMBEGA. Francis I. and Madame the Regent of France, came here and saw traces of tho fortncr presence of the Northmen. There is recorded on his maps (Maiollo'.s and that of his brother Ilieronynuis Verrazano) Norman's Villa,' and Anorobagea, and Oranbega.^ Allefonsce's visit was later, in 1543; and he found the city and river of Noronibeguc in the forty-third degree. Thevet came later still, and found in the same degree — possibly, it may be suggested, in part by relation of others — the river and city, and also ihe fort, of No- rumbega. These navigators and discoverers were all Frenchmen." Breton French traders occupied the fort when Thevet was in this neighborhood. This portion of Massacliusetts liad been called Francesca and Gallia hy Ver- razano, and Terra de la Franciscane by Allefon.sce. This was the earliest New France, — Nova Franoia, — the name which Jacques Cartier in 15.31-1535 extended over the shores of the St. Lawrence, the story of which we have in the works of Dr. Parkman. The Dauphin map (1542-1543) confounded, as Sebastian Cabot's of 1544 did, the southern with tlie northern Cape Dreton, or rather fused the two in one. It was Allefonsce, the pilot of Roberval, who in 1543 left, in the manuscript to which I have referred, the record of his discovery that there were (lco Caj)e Bretons. It is this original manu- script — of which I have with its pen-made maps the absolute copy — that has determined the site of the treasures of the forty-third degree. This Allefonsce mnnnscript determined our Cape Ann to he the southern Cape Breton. It determined the river Charles to be tho Norumbega. That is, the river Norumbega was in the forty-third degree ; it was a tidal river ( Ver- razano and Thorfinn). '-It is at its mouth full of islands which stretch out ten or twelve leagues to the sea." * Of such a tidal river there is hut one in the fortv-third degree. 1 Xorm.iii Villa Ls also on the Ulpius Globe in the same latitude. ^ XornKin's Woe occupies the site of, or is ne.ir to, the ( )r!inbec;.'V of Verraziino. Not f,ar away wa.s the ilialectic equivalent Naamhoak nf .lolin Smith, and its near fellow of Xaunikeag, in use to-day, and Namskakct and \moskeag, already mentioned ; of close kinship, and in another direction, wcro Bogasto and .Tar. Verrazano records the luiu/d villa — such were tho houses of the Northmen — and the sweathouse, or sli, as it is preserved in Hoga-stf>, in the town of Millis. * Verrazano wa.s an Italian in the employ of the French Government. * Allefonsce's month of tlio Charles had for its two promontories Cape Ann aud CajK) CoJ. He estimates its width at " above forty leagues." ^ mm wm mmmmmmmm \> V DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 21 On the niivps of which I spoke, where, at the same point and given aa the alternative names of this city, Norumbocja, Norveya, and Norm<ja are found, and where Norvega as a jxrovince occurs, there is also, and in the same pre- cise latitude, the Norumbega Rkcr. This was the llio Grande of the Portu- guese, the Anguileine of Verrazano, the Misliaum (Big Eel) of the Massachu- setts Indians, and the Charles of Capt. John Smith. Over all, in larger print, on these maps, is the historic name of Nova Fr.\.ncia. Of this New France Mr. Bancroft, our great historian, say.=i: "The French DIPLOMATS NEVER FAILED TO ItEMEMBER THAT BoSTON WAS WITUIN THE LIMITS OF THE ORIGINAL NeW FrANCE." Here was the original New Fr.\.nce. If Boston was in New France ; and if the river Norumbega ^ihc Charies), and the city of Norumbega and the fort of Norumbega, on the banks of the diaries, were all in New France as well as in the country of Norumbega, and in the forty-third degree, — then we cannot be in doubt as to where the Northmen came nine hundred years ago. As I have demonstrated else- whore that Leif's houses were farther down the Charles, we cannot doubt that the Vinland of Leif was near the city of the Norumbega of history, tradition, and song. So eastern Massachusetts held both Yinland and the ancient city and seaport and river and fort of Norumbega. It is, as the French tell us, the unexpected that happens. I found my guide to the city in a single paragraph in one of the Sagas of Tliorfinu Karisefni, which appears, by an oversight of the .scribe or copyist possibly, attaclied to the story of Froydis. Let me give the substance of it. Leif had built houses near Gerry's Landing, and called the country Vin- land, and returned to Greenland. Thorwald had come to Leif's houses, had explored the Charies, had found in it many shallows and islands, and a corn- shed on an i.sland far to the west ; had consumed a summer in his discoveries, and returned to Leif's houses in the autumn. In attempting exploration at sea he had been wrecked on Cape Cod, had repaired his ship and set up the ORTELIUS, 1570. I SOI./S. /s at <3 ••Si> o rrtsUKt. \.ad.CAJUas. *^ BOTERO, 1603. "They sailed long until they came to a river, which flowed from the land through a lalce and passed into the sea." Thorflun's Saga. New pi! lT!n •^""7""^*^ "'^^-^y ''-"'e-nbered that Boston was built within the original limits of New France" (Bancrofts MUCvry, 2d edition, p. 24). MMl 22 DISCOVERY OF TIIK ANXIENT CITY OF XOUUMIJEGA. old keel in the sand, and called the cape Kjalarnes(Kecl cape) ; he had boon killed in battle with the Indians, and buried on the Gurnet. Ills crew had returned to Greenland to be succeeded by Thorfmn, who remained three years in Vinland, and because of Indian distrust and opposition gave up the attempt to settle the country. Thorfmn in his ricldy laden ship had returned with his wife Gudrid and his little boy Snorri to Greenland and to Norway ; had passed the winter in the society of the Court at Nidaros, the residence of the king, not far from the modern Thronheim. As he was ready to take his departure for Iceland, his future home, waiting at the wharf for a favoring wind, there came to the ship a Bremen merchant who wished to buy his hum-snotra. TluM-finn did not care to part with it. " I will not sell," said he. « / offer you a pound of gold [Beamish says, a half-mark of guhiy said the Southerner. '• Knrl- sefni [Thorfinn Karlsofnil thoinjht tJiis a good offer, and closed the hartjaln. lite German then went away with the htsa-snotra. But Karlsefni knew not what WOOD icas in it ! It icas mosurr from Vinland ! " Beamish estimated a half-mark of gold at £1G sterling, or about $80 of our money (and much more, expressed by modern values of service or pro- ducts of labor). What a sum for an article of household use, the chief value of wliioh was in its wood ! What could mosurr wood be? And what was a husa-snotra ? About the latter there has been endless speculation. Hum obviously was relatc<l to hmsc ; Init what did snotra mean? One writer thought it a l)osoin ; another, a broom-handle ; another, a bar to fasten the door from within. It might be a weathercock, a crown, a piece of decorative carving in wood. None were satisfactory. Professor Vigfusson — the late Icelandic Professor at Oxford — came to the conviction that, it was an ancient Fin- nish word, now obsolete. The '•' Antiquitates Americanoe " had been translated into Danish and Latin by Rafn, and most Vinland students had seen the Vinland Sagas either in the original or in one or the other of these two translations. I had not met a reference, in connection with the discussion of husa-snotra, to the sununary DISCOVERY OF TlIK ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 23 of the Vinland Sagas in Peringskjold's translation of the Heimskringla of Snorro Sturleson into Swedish and Latin. Might there not be anotlier ren- dering in Swedisli ? I learned of a copy of the first edition of Peringskjold's Heimskringla of 1G97 in Stockholm, and was fortnnately able to obtain it. In this, husa-smtm was translated icwj in Swedish ; into Latin by statera, or statcra %nca, " wooden scales" (scale-pans). The husa-snotm had possibly (probably) been wrought, or repaired (at least the scale-pans), by a sailor on his home voyage from Vinland, and presented to Thorfinn. It was a pair of house-scales, the scale-pans of which were of mosutr wood} The husa-snotm was the equivalent of the house steelyard for weif/hlng. Here is the significant sentence in the Saga : — " Thorfinn had wood felled and hewn and Irouffht to the ship, and the wood piled on the cliff to dry." (See Cabot's translation.) Let us study it. It vni!^ felled. It was part of a ffrown tree. UxL'P" hntnn in rpiTinvp useless woitrht. It was piled on the cliff to dr>/. Why ? Because it teas wet. It had been in the water. It had been cast into the river, or a tributary to it, above the ship. It had been Jloated to the ship. It had been fished out and carried to the clij^ by hand. It was in blocks that men could carry. It had been piled so as to be convenient for sliding to the ship, at the base of the bluff, when ready to receive its cargo. In these terms of analysis I found what led to the discovery of the desert's secret, — the ancient City of Norumbega. I saw — afar off, to be sure — what the Norman Knight almost saw in a mirage among the gor- geous clouds that sometimes gather about the setting sun. My study was at last rewarded. I had delved to the heart of the > Scale pans of bronze are found in Sweden, of the bronze age. (Montelius, p. 114.) » Leif also ' ' hewed the cargo of wood for his vessel." I> . 24 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMHEGA. problem. As I look back upon the experience, I think it may not have been altogether a playful fiction that I uttered to myself, when glancing down the viata before me I said, " I have not only reached the heart of the problem, but I can feel its boat." Miisur wood, as I will presently explain to you, was the burrs or large warts that occasionally grow on certain trees, more frequently Ibund in primitive forests, — as oak (one variety is called burr oak), l)irch, hickory, maple, ash. (Mcisur wood = Knorrujc Ausxvuchs, Old German.) I have alreiidy said that there were monuments of the presence of the Northmen on every square mile of the basin of the Charles. I find I must at once tell you what these monuments are. We have no account of transportation by the Northmen except by water. The miJsur wood gathered liy Thorfinn, we have just seen, was Jloatcd to the ship, which lay in the Charles, and then taken from the water to be piled on a clljj', a bliijr, a bank, out of the reach of high tide, to dry. "We will assume what I cannot stop now to dwell on, — I have discussed it elsewhere at length, — that the spot where this occurred in Thorfinn's experience was at or near Gerry's Landing, just above the ancient bluff known as Symond's Hill, by the river (the site of Leifs houses), near the City Hospital. That was the spot where a great industry in Vinland began. The mfisur blocks were felled and hewn at first along the neighboring bluffs on the Charles. At the base of these bluffs are still ditches, or canals, into which the blocks may have been rolled, and along which, after the ditches were fdled with the water at high tide, the blocks wore lloatcd down to where the ship lay. The ship was the nalhcrinci-placc. The Ijlocks had been '• brouf/ht to the ship." Thej- were not taken on board immediately ; but removed from the water, and enrried f>// hand and jrilcd on a cliff to dry. When the imme- diate shores of the river had been exhausted of the mfisur wood, the shores of the tributaries flowhig into the river became the field of activity, and the mosur blocks were sent floating down the streams ; and where the streams were remote from the bases of the slopes on either side, and .sources of water were at hand, canals, or nearly level troughs, wore dug to transport the DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF N()UU.MUK(iA. 25 blocks to the Htroams, and ultimately to the Charles. We now sec why (lams and ponds were necessary at the mouths of the streams, to prevent the blocks from going down the Charles without a convoy, and out to sea to be lost. Consider as an example the pond at the mouth of the Cold- spring Brook opposite Watertown. 1 call its artificial wall below a boom- ihini. It is a good example. Th're is another striking one just below Newton Upper Falls, on the left bank, through the ridge. The volume of water of the stream spread out against the dam would become, on the brow, too shallow for the blocks to pass over. They would thus be saved as logs are, by a boom across a stream down which they are floating. There is an admirable canal, walled on one side for a thousand feet, along the west bank of Stony Brook, in the woods above the Fitchburg Railroad Crossing between Waltham and Weston. The Cheesecake Brook is another, and Coldspring Brook another. There is an interesting dry canal near Mur- ray Street, not far from Newtonville. It may be seen from the railway-cars on the right, a little to the east of Eddy Street, approaching Boston. These are among the monuments. The forts — dwelling-places surroimded by water, and in tlieir day also by stockades — gave examples of ditches such as we have surrounding the ancient fort, near the Tower. The canals, ditches, deltas, boom-dams, ponds, fish-ways, forts, dwellings, walls, terraces of theatre and amphitheatre, scattered throughout the basin of the Charles, are fhe monuments I had in mind when I said there was not a square mile draining into the river that lacked an incontestable monument of the presence of the Northmen. To make clearer our conception of the picture I am trying to present, let us follow an individual block of mosur wood. I have spoken of the canals at the base of the hillsides along the tribu- taries to the Charles. The block of mclsur wood we will follow shall be the burr, or wart, growing on an oak near the top of the slope along Stony Brook, a quarter of a mile above the Fitchburg Crossing between Waltham and Weston. The tree on which the burr grows is felled by the axe, and the trunk above and below the burr cut off. The wood of the trunk portion 20 DISCnVKUY OF THE AXCFENT CITY OF NORfMHEOA. of the block Ih hewn nwny, to reduce its weight and size. The block, ho shorn and shapi-d, is rolled down the hill till it reaches the canal, where it floats with other blocks, rolled down by other choppers, in a sluggish current, to be discharj,'ed at the outlet into Stony Hrook, or on a delta as at the end of the ditch near the Tower, which is on n little ridge projecting into the Itay, or Iicij(t (literally a norutnbci/d)} The dischargo on the delta jxM-mitted assortment before making up the rafts that were to descend the Charles, This detention would enable each chopper, at intervals, to select and mark the fruit of his labor, or coch contractor to gather and identify the results of the work of his several axemen. There were evidences, before the reservoir was establisliod, of boom-dams and ponds on Stony Bmok at various points above, which might have been used for marking or assorting and rafting the burrs. Once in the Charles, the rafts would descend to the required great boom-dcm at the sea port of Norumbega, wherever that might be. Do some think that 1 have given undeserved dignity to the ditches in calling them canals ? They are so named in the old deeds in Weston. If you look at them on the left of the highway between Sibley's and Weston, with the stone walls on either side, you will not wonder that the word '• canal " as well as " ditch " should have suggested itself They are so called on the published town maps of Millis and Ilolliston, many miles above us. Now let us return fn the sentences in the Saga of Thorfinn that liave held such vast secrets. It was, we remember, a single article o( domestic use, in part composed of wood, which was paid for with £\C> sterling (Beamish), — a sum which in modern equivalents of labor would be several times greater! It must have been something valued by the travelling Bremen merchant, not l)ecause of its ossociation with Thorfinn. but for .something else, to a merchant, of * The Norse aiid Alc^)nquin have common elements. I wa.s at first surprised and then delighted with this coincidence. It |)oints to dccpor truth. Tlio roots no ami liih an<l the uttemnco u'l arc com- mon to Norso and AlRonqnin, and many other luuguages, classic and aborigvnal. But, this will be discussed at length elsewhere. mi^M fliM V *»«»-.i~'« '«B^ WW ,,.4J"- T I a;.:, .\N:i canal. OU UITCH NliAK NOHHK DAM. i- ttl ONK WALL AND CANAL NKAH TMI-". NOHSE DAM AND SIBLEY'.S STATION FITC11HUH(-. H. R. DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOllUMBEGA. 27 vastly greater moment. Let us assume for the occasion, what we shall presently find lully sustained, that it was because it suggested the basis of an indmtrial. advenlure. Wliat then was it that gave value to the 7nosurr wood ? In the last canto of "The Lord of the Isles" occurs the couplet (it is King James who »peaks at the banquet), — " ' Bring hero,' he said, ' the mfisers four My noble fathers loved of yore.' " A reference to the appendix of the edition of Scott edited by Lockhart reveals that these " mfisers" were wooden JrM^-cv/yM — flagons, beakers — mounted in silver, and kept by King Robert the Bruce as heirlooms in an iron chest, with other bric-a-brac, gold and silver ornaments, and the royal treasure. Maser wood was employed in the manufacture of communion cups for cliurch service, — chalices, — and is mentioned in inventories of ancient cathedrals. It is also mentioned by Spenser,— " A mighty mazer bowl of wine was set." And here is a line from Ben Jonson, — " Their brimful mazers to the feasting bring." On going back to the root of the word, it proves to be the same as that of mass, and originated in the process by which wheaten flour and water could, with kneading, be made to increase in size and become a mass. (Skeat.) The moistened gluten became adhesive ; more flour would cling ; and so, by alternate additions of water and Hour and kneading, the dough would increase in volume. From this came the name maza, which the Spanish give to the dough of corn moal, — a woid in use in Mexico to-day, and the source of the specific botanical name of Indian corn in Zca mais. The word in St. Domingo is tnahlz. The early Tilgrims heard of it as Indian imkum. Tlic kneading gave to the flour and water mixed a fibrous, interla- 28 DISCOVERY OF TIIK ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. cing texture, which bound the whole together. This was the mass, which gave its name to the Sacrament in which it served. Miiser wood possessed this texture. Maser, or mazit); or masiir wood is defined, in Old High German, ns "warty outgrowth from trees," — we call them burrs, or borls. It could bo wrought into thin forms, and would not nadili/ crack or split. Tlie Swedes had scale-pans for weighing made of this wood, thin and light, and also plates and trenchers and kneading-troughs and bowls and goblets. Maser wood is still used in this country to make mortars for grinding pepper, cinnamon, and the like in domestic service ; also for kneading-troughs. There was a factory for wooden mortars and other products of the turning-latlie on Chester Brook, — Mead's. This wood may have been used more or less in the Old World in place of the costly bronze and perishable glass and earthenware, — great wants of civilization. In ancient and very early times it was used for war-clubs. A snuill growth of stem surrounded by a ring of the maser growth was easily converted into a war-club, — the club of Hercules. (Larousse.) It became the symbol of command carried by the leader, and was the foundation of a u.sage, or fashion, that pre- vails to this day, and preserves the use of the word in the wacc, borne before the Speaker of the House of Commons as well as of the American Congress, — before the Lord Mayor, the Lord Chancellor, and so on. We SCO traces of this word in the iiiaxc of the dance and the 7)iazc of a laby- rinth ; in viasiir/ca, the Polish dance ; in macerate, a process of knc-ading (see also master and mcastire). Now, maser wood was tough, lasting, decorative ; did not grow every- where and on all trees ; was sought for, and paid for generously, by the Church, the aristocracy, the municipality, the government, and for domes- tic uses. It had already naturally become relatively scarce in Europe. It was a form of wood-growth that pointed possibly to the old age of the forest.' A virgin supply would be a prize to be laid before enter- ' Hero m.iy Imvc been tlio seed of expansicni into a prent industry, and a comnieren witli tlio New World conducted primarily and chiefly by or through the Northnn'n. Wo catch glimpses of its spread, possibly, in (ho ancient Unizil (lie. Arhre.i. island of woods), in liarcn'non carried across the seas by the Basques, and in chance arrivals at other points in Europe. The Massachusetts Indians conceived ,:^^t;:^;i ^'~~' ■^' .*;-■-.!'.> i'*-* :^'««;^-j"X'w-'-v «.<*•'■ ftiifcl '■'^:'.^.^-' BUHHSON OAK TREES ON IllE LINE OF DIT-CH L.EADINlJ IC) I'HORFINNS L.ANDlNi^. -.X :^ .?.i. DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMDEGA. 29 prising merchants, wood-donlers, and decorators of houses and furniture. Leif and Froydia knew of its vahic, as also Thorlinn, and it was their i)rincipal cargo on leaving Vinland. The Bremen merchant was con- versant with the wants of civilization and the methods of enterprise. Thorfinn did not notice, or take account of, the muscr scah-paiis of the husasnotra from the point of view of the enterprising Southern man. lie knew that the wood cuuld be wnnujM into thin forms without liabiliti/ to crack or wnrp, and appreciated the significance of a new source. At first the maser wood could be gathered near the settlement, as we have seen ; but the supply would soon be exhausted. The choppers must go farther. There were no horses, no roads. The obvious method of transportation was by water, — at first from the immediate wooded shores of the Charles, then from the shores of its tributaries, and then along artificial canals, conducting to these tributaries and the river. But to prevent the blocks from going out to sea, there must be dams at the mouths of the tributaries to arrest them. 1 had found many canals lead- ing to tributaries and to the Charles, when I reflected that if I had rightly divined the office of these canals, there must be at the mouth of each tributary, or along the stream near and above it, a dam and pond, or the remains of them or their equivalents, wherever the industry of the miiser wood was prosecuted by the Northmen. I have traced these dams up the Charles nearly to its extreme source. I have followed them on the Neponset and the Piscataqua, and on the tributaries to the Merrimac. Not only the boom-dams at or near the mouths of the streams falling into the Charles, but the canals all over Newton and Weston, in Belmont and Watertown, and Woburn and Arlington and Medford and Cambridge, in Dedhain and Millis and IloUiston and elsewhere, are frequently walled the early English colonists could have come only for wood. But even in Thorfinn's time, in the ac- count of Freyilis, it is relatod that "the expedition to Vinland was commonly esteemed to be both lucrative and honorable." Her vessels, as wo have seen, broiicfht homo wood from Vinland. Leif owed his added name — " the Lucky " — to having had the good fortune to save the crew o' a wrecked ship Kiaded with wood on its way to Greenland. The importation of certain kinds of wood from the region of Viidaiid was already an estnbli.shod industry. Gudrid told the Pope at Rome of the Chris- tian aettloments by Scandinavians, already in her time, in Vinland. See also Adam von Bremen. Alrtii^«iiMliiiiiiiVir iitfiiilll WmKSS^^mmsmif>.^immimm ■jmw wimirinin smsimft-vmm,»<m». I 30 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMHEGA. with Btonc, as in the case of the Cheesecake and Coldspring, where the Boston and Albany Railroad crosses below Newtonville, and near the Catholic Theological Seminary in Brigliton, and the stream crossing the highway between Sibley's and Weston. Undoubtedly the walls have been repaired in modern times, and in some cases it will be dilVicult to distinguish be- tween ancient canals and modern ditches for drainage. Some of the dams are very massive. In some cases the ponds have more or less been fdled with alluvial deposit, and now constitute meadow-land, or a swamp, as at the mouth of the Cheesecake. In others a modern dam below has sub- mer"-ed the mouth of the stream, — in which cases the outline of the dam is sometimes betrayed in the growth of shrubbery. In a few cases a canal ends in a delta, — as on Eddy Street in Newton, near the fish-traps on the Cheesecake, and at the end of the canal near the Tower. In nianv cases the uum is accoinpar.icd by .1 fish-wny, — as on the stream from Lexington to the Mystic, and on Mother Brook. Along these canals and tributaries are artificial islands that once gave sites and protection to Norse homes, — as you may see near the railroad station at West Newton on the street toward the Lower Falls, and near Burroughs Pond. One is still indicated in the grounds of Hon. Chauncy Smith in Cambridge, in the broad mound around which a canal formerly conducted water from the slopes beyond Craigie Street. The original path of the modern Brattle Street crossed on tlie boom-dam below the pond into which the canal led, and which has only recently been filled. The dwellings had the additional protection of stockades, like the old fort near the Tower, occupied after the Northmen by the Breton French as a trading-post, as remarked by Thevet. All these boom-dams at the entrance to the Charles point to a larger boom-dam across the Charles, where the total harvest of blocks from all the basins might be drawn from the water and piled to dry. That must have been near the place where they were shipped. Do you ask now, Whore did these blocks find place for shipment? When I answer that, I shall have turned aside the screen which has DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMDEGA. 31 SO long baffled the students of New England cartography, and shown you the Hite of the ancient Norumbega. Go with me down the Cliiirles from the Tower past Mington and Lily Point Grove, and the great Watch Factory of Waltham, and the boom- dam at the mouth of Beaver Brook, now a pond filled with deposit from the brook, past the swamp at the mouth of the Cheesecake, past Bemis's Station, past the terraced hillside on the right, which is entitled to more study than I have been able to give to it, and at length we shiill come to a stone dam over wliich the sweet water of the river pours to-day. This dam is made of field bowlders such as compose the beau- tiful new churches in Weston, Watertown, and Wellesley, — not square- cornered stones, or split or hewn, or the product of drilling in the quarry and blasting, but like the larger stones of the Tower, adjusted to their most stable positions. It is at the head of tide- water. Within the memory of livino- men, once only has the incoming tide risen above the crest of the dam. It was when the easterly storm and tide and wind swept away the Minot's Ledge Liglit. With that single exception, — so I have been told, — the dam has been the dividing line between fresh water and salt at high tide. Has it ever occurred to any one to ask how long that dam has been there? The Watertown Historical Society has just come into being, or it would not have ooen left till to-day to demand an answer to this question. The earliest man of Winthrop's colony to ascend the Charles was Roger Clapp (1630). His story is a part of the history of Watertown. Let me repeat it to you. lie describes the narrow, shallow rapids below,* which he reached, as he estimated, three leagues from the mouth of the river. His party found in the neighborhood an encampment of Indians, some three lumdred by estimate, at the head of tide-Avater, where some of them were taking fi.sh in the shallows above the tide-water. 1 The shallows — rapids at ebb tido — proventnd the explorers (Champlain perhaps among them) from ascending the Charles to the site of Norumbega. Heylin ant! thers ascribe to the falls on the American rivers the failure more thoroughly to ixploro the interior. Had the explorers gone up at ^()(/-tide, it might not have been left to our time to find Norumbega. 32 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OK NOUUMDEGA. Clapp observed the phallows at the hond of tide-water at Watertown, and also shared the product of the devices used by the Inthaiis for fishing purposes just ])elo\v, which involved the descent and fall of the stream as early as 1C30. Wood, who came to the country the year before Clapp, and loft in August, 1G33, and whoso book ("New England's Prospect") bears date of 1034, wrote of the fall of fresh waters and the fishing at a weir below. This full and the fishing were mentioned by Josselyn in 1038. Later still, Duntim wrote of a " (jrcaf fall of fresh waters which convoigh them- Belves into the ocean through the Charles River." The weir fishing was continued by the whites, and the profit in later times divided between Watertown and Brighton down to 1800;' and I had the honor a few months ago to converse at length with the latest custodian of this industry, the present Town Clerk of Watertown, Mr. Ingram, who pointed out to me the theatre of the industry with the weir. He conducted me also to the oldest map of Watertown. in the Secretary of State's office in Bost(m ; and on that I found traced the canal through which flowed the waters that turned the first wheel of the first flouring-mill in New England. Let us look a little further. There may be some among ns who have not heard of Roger Clapp, the first of the Puritans to reach the head of tide-water on the Charles ; or possibly of Wood or Josselyn or Dunton, who wrote of the spot a few years later. But there is one of whom every son and daughter of New England has heard, John Winthroj),— the great leader of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay. He was the an- cestor of the venerable scholar, stitesman, orator, public servant, wlio — " In nn old age seroiio (ind hn<;lit And lovely as a Lai)l:ind night," — is the living object of our reverent and grateful homage. John Winthrop records nn incident in the history of the Colony that relates to the age of the dam at Watertown. > See Nelson's History of Waltham. DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOIIUMBEOA. 33 On the very npot whore, nccorcViiig to popuhir beUetV the first flouring-iiiill in New England — possibly in America — was set up, now stands its ellicient successor (more than one generation of mills between), still in active service, depending for its water-power upon the same difter- encc of level between the water above the dam and below tlie mill, of which advantage was taken by the early colonists. The ancient mill was driven by an undershot wheel, as was the modern one, till the turbine came, the water passing under instead of over the wheel. It happened on one occasion that a little child fell into the raceway above the mill. Before the eyes, but beyond the rescue of the miller, the child floated into the flume above the wheel. An accident had removed one of the blades of the wheel. As Winthrop relates, a special Providence directed that the current should bring the child exactly into the place of the lost blade of the water-wheel, — ''for otherwise," he says, ''if an eel pass through, it is cut asunder," — so that when the miller reached the outlet of the ilume, he found the child absolutely unharmed, sitting waist-deep in the water below. And now, so long as the history of the Massachusetts Bay Colony shall be read, so long will the story of the wonderful deliverance of the little cliild be remembered as an incident of the early life of Watertown. The significance of the event to us is that it preserves the testimony of Winthrop as to the age of the dam above. The water-power was gained by the dam. It was a fall of only four and a half feet, as Mr. Mugce, the present proprietor, informs me; and this involved a canal or raceway of nearly a quarter of a mile in length along the gentle descent of the Charles. Who built the dam ? It was made of natural, rounded, massive field- bowlders. English pioneers, economical of time and men, in a region of virgin forests build dams of loood cut along the banks nbo\e and floated down, not of scattered bowlders gathered over great areas from the sur- > The mill-stones were brought from England, and are mentioned in the cost of equipment for the colony. 84 DlSrOVEUY (IF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUlMliEGA. face of tho soil. All history ia silent. Dudley, who later had ft lawsuit about tho ownership of the mill, iw silent. Winthrop himself is Bilent. Could the thoughtful pen that recorded tho discovery of Adam's chair, since lost, and again and recently found ; rcconied the fight between the mouse and the snake, witnessed with such natural interest by tho Puritans who f ' a ring around the combatants ; as also this inci- dent at tho nii .inc, — could tho same thoughtful pen have failed to mention so considerable an achievement in the interests of tho infant colony as the construction of a stone dam across the Charles, had it occurred contemporaneously with these other events? Impossible. What follows ? This : J'/jc dam was licre when Winlhrop came. But before Winthrop came, Roger Clapp had learned of tho Indians at net-fishing in the shallows at the head of tide-water, the fish being massed there, because they could get no farther on their way to spawning- ground. When Winthrop first saw the dam it had become a familiar fact. It had been found already built, and concealed under the fall of fresh waters. The earliest ap of the site of Watertown, to which I have referred, has on it the d on which the flouring-mill was erected; and it is recorded that u, colonists found the natural canal, or raceway, ^hen they came. What again follows ? This : The dam teas the work a people who had come and gone before the earliest F)ujlish settlement ;i our shores. Look at the testimony of the weir. The structure consists of a low stone-wall spanning the river, shaped like the letter V, with the angle down stream, and a trap at the point. The weir is submerged at flood- tide. With tho flood come schools of fish socking spawning-ground and fresh water. In the absence of a dam there would have been nothing to arrest their progres.s, and they would not have stopped at Watertown any more than at any other point below or above. With a dam the fish would mass below, and with the ebb-tide seek escape at tho angle of the weir. The fact that they were taken in great numbers at the pres- : f i / ^^<r^y>p \T'"/ ^■-^■-' I /"^^^^....e. ^V:^ 7*-/ rt/. r\ DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 86 ent Watertown by a weir is absolute proof of the existence of the dam Wood says one hundred thousand were taken in two tides, — that is, in a single day. The Indians had taught the settlers that the fish could be used for manuring their corn, and the poor crop of 1631 had made them feel the necessity of a fertilizer. In the spring of 1032, authorized by Winthrop, the ivcir was set up. The order presupposes the existence of the dam; without it the weir would have had nothing to catch. The dam must have been already built before 1631. It could not have been built by the handful of Saltonstall's half-invalid men between the autumn of 1631 and the spring of 1632. Why? Because it was built of rounded bowlders gathered from the fields, not from quarries ; and that involved too much time and labor. How do we know it was built of field stone, -rounded bowlders? In this way. Not many years ago the foundations of portions of the dam were undermined, and the water broke through and left the structure bare to its base, open to any eye. Let us look at the Records of the General Court. Wood returned to England in August, 1033. He records, in his "New En-dand's Prospect," that there was «a water milne on Stony Brook (Roxberry)" and another in Saugus. The mill at Watertown is under- stood to have preceded all others. If this be so, it must have been set up, at the latest, early in 1633. It was a work ..f private enterprise, since subsequent action of the General Court decided that it belonged to Mr. Dudley and not to Mr. Howe. At a town-meeting of Watertown Jan. 3, 1634-5, it was " voted that four rods wide on each side of the river .should be laid apart to the use of the ware, so that it may not be prejudicial to the mill." The necessity of defining the rights or wants of the weir had been revealed by experience in the years immediately preceding. . . As Winthrop was complained against by Dudley for personally authorizing (the General Court not being in session) the construction of the weir in the • r- 36 DISCOVEUY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. winter and spring of 1G31-32, it is clear the dam must have been previously built. The Records of the Court are preserved. They contain its action at the session, July 5, 1031, authorizing a levy on the public for the opening of the canal along Blackstone Street from the cove at the present riayniarket Square through the water at the east, and another levy, at the session Feb. 3, lGol-2, x i- making the palisade about Newtown (now Cambridge). Now, is it not clear that a large work on Charles River, like the building of a stone-dam, involving the labor for a long time of a large number of able-bodied men, could not have been undertaken without discussion ? As a private matter, it could not have been done .without capital and the co- operation of laborers ; as a public matter, it could not have been under- taken without the authority of the General Court ; but of this there is no record. Contemporary or subsequent history does not mention it. Finally, it would have been much cheaper to have built a mill on Clematis Brook, with abundant fall, and without a costly dam. The meaning of all this is that the dam was where it now is when Win- throp came. Why do T speak so confidently V Fortunate leisure has enabled me to go far enough in certain directions of study and exploration to see what must he as a matter of scientific deduction. When tliat point, the what must he, is reached, prediction is natural, unavoidable, and safe. As I prophesied from the literature of geography the finding of Fort Norumbega at the junction of Stony Brook with the Charles, and went to the spot and found it; and as 1 deduced the site of the remains of Leif s houses in Vinland from the necessities which the strict construction of the Sagas required, and went to the spot where I had indicated that the remains had once been, and found them there more than a year after the prediction was announced, — so I have arrived by inevitable deduction at the scat and centre of the early colony of Northmen in America. I do not deduce the maser industry from the presence of the dam at t' DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 87 Watertown, but I deduce the davi and scajwrt and docks and wharves as essential to the muscr industry roveidcd in the Sagas. I may not take your time to tell of my interviews with many of the best- informed and elderly men of Watertown, — with ladies who as little girls had gathered wild violets and anemones on what, with the exception of the trees, were the otherwise unoccupied islands below the dam, then as now walled about with substantial masonry without mortar ; or of my delight in finding the walled channels between these islands, — at least four in number, — the docks ; or the hlack mcadoio iimck under the gravelly earth that constitutes the body of the walled islands;' or the parallel cyclo- pean walls extending on both sides of the river along the narrows and shallows to which Clapp came in 1G30. These walls, extending to the opening meadows toward the Arsenal, by narrowing the channel increased the depth of the Avater at high-tide, and so made it practicable to float the blocks across the river from the boom-dams on the right bank below to the docks and wharves, as well as with greater ease and certainty to lead ships to and from the docks ; or the long basin for the reception of blocks and their accumulation, which also serves as a fish-way^ into the basin from the north; or the great artificial basin (Cook's Pond), the pro- duct of the boom-dam, on the opposue side of the river, — all of tchich, and much more that miglit be named, belong to the period of seven to nine centuries ago : the ivork of the Northmen. All these are remains of the ancient seaport of Nonimhega. This was the site, pictured on so many ancient maps, at the head of tide-water, on the "River that flowed throttfjh a Luke to the Sea," — the Ifojj of Thorfinn, salt at flood-tide and fresh at ehh, — the ancient Boston Back Bay. The islands were wharves. The channels between them, closed or nearly closed at the upper Ir * This was alluvial snit, once the surface, submerged at extreme high-tide below tlie falls, and deposited in the eddy of the flood-tido and current of tlio Charles before the dam was built. The propri(!tor of tho foiuidry on the spot iiifornicd me that lie had ocoasion to find substantial foundation t<5 support parts of the foundry. Ho dug down through the gravel till he came to black meadow muck, aud through that to solid bottom. " There is a fine display of lioon-daras and fish-ways on Vine Brook, between tho Arlington Reservoir and the Mystic. See town m. o. mii^ % r \r 3g DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOUUMHEGA. end near the hasin, wore docks. On these wharves the nifisor blocks that had lloated down the Charles had been arrested and turned hy tlie dam into the basin, — the northern canal, — where they were piled to dry and await their turn to be shipped. Here, besides the conveniences for piling under cover the mfiser blocks, there were storehouses for dried salmon, for the peltry purchased in its season, and not impossibly for the Indian corn grown on the plains of Newton, Danvers, Millis, and Ilolliston. On the shores above and below were naturally shops for barter, and dwellings for all classes, and necessarily, with the culture of the Northmen, provision for amusement, for public worship, and the wants of govern- ment,— the Althing, to which these early (perhaps earliest) self-governing people were accustomed. Here was the ancient seaport of Yinland, for the colony that came after Thorfinn left, to which in 1121 Bishop Upsi came to hold up the symbols of the Faith. The basin, wharves, docks, canals of this ancient seaport un- derlie the city of Watertown to-day, and are connected with and serve its most prominent industries. Here came and went the connnerce of the Northmen first; later, the commerce of the Frenchmen, and possibly of still other peoples. Here, at the modern Watertown, was the ancient CITY OF NORUMBEGA. I have not hesitated to state this as the result of research that may not be questioned, -a research thnt included the Landfall of Leif Krikson on Cape Cod. and the colonization of Massachusetts by Northmen nine hundred years ago. To assert this, among other things, I set up the Tower m Weston,°at the mouth of Stony Brook, where I first found evidences of the work of the Northmen. Over the tablet set in the wall of the Tower, the genius of the architect, Mr. Tryon, has poised the Scandinavian falcon (the symbol of sovereignty in Iceland) about to alight with a new world in his talons. I may read what was designed to cover the principal additions to the history of the foundation of Massachusetts. DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMBEGA. 39 AD. 1000. A.D. 1889. NORUMBEGA. CITY: COUNTRY: FORT: RIVER. NORUMBEGA = NOR'MKEGA. INDIAN UTTERANCE OF NORBEGA, THE ANCIENT FORM OF NORVEGA, NORWAY: TO WHICH THE REGION OF VINLAND WAS SUBJECT. CITY AT AND NEAR WATERTOWN, WHERE REMAIN TO-DAY DOCKS, WHARVES, WALLS, DAMS, BASIN. COUNTRY EXTENDING FROM RHODE ISLAND TO THE ST. LAWRENCE. FIRST SEEN BY B.TARNI HEIUULFSON, 085 A. D. LANDFALL OF LEIF ERIKSON ON CAPE COD, 1000 A. D. NORSE CANALS, DAMS, WALLS, PAVEMENTS, FORTS, TERRACED PLACES OF ASSEMBLY, REMAIN TO-DAY. i*' H FORT AT BASE OF TOWER AND REGION ABOUT WAS OCCUPIED BY THE BRETON FRENCH IN THE 15TU, laTH, AND 17TII CENTURIES. RIVER THE CHARLES DISCOVERED BY LEIF ERIKSON 1000 A. D. EXPLORED BY TIIORWALD, LEIF'S BROTHER, 1003 A. D. COLONIZED liV THORFINN KARLSEFNI 1007 A. D. FIRST BISHOP ERIK GNUPSON 1121 A. D. INDUSTRIES FOR 350 YEARS. MASUR-WOOD (BURRS), FISH, FURS, AGRICULTURE. LATEST NORSE SHIP RETURNED TO ICELAND IN 1347. 40 DISCOVEUY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NOULMUECiA. It ' Among the considerations that led to the erection of the Tower, besides those already mentioned, were these: — 1. It will coinmemorato the Discovkhy of Vinland ano Nouumrega in the forty-third degree, and the idontificalion of Norunihoga with Norway, the home coimtry to which this region wivs once subject by right of dis- covery and colonization. 2. It will invite criticism, and so sift out any errors of interpre- tation into which, sharing the usual fortune of the pioneer, I may have been led. , 3. It will encourage archaeological investigation in a fascniating and almost untrodden field, and be certain to contribute in the results of research and exploration, both in the study and the field, to the histon- cal treasure of the Commonwealth. 4. It will help, by reason of its more presence, and by virtue of the veneration with which the Tower will in time come to be regarded, to brin- acquiescence in the fruit of investigation, and so allay the blind scepticism, amounting practically to inverted ambition, that would deprive Massachusetts of the glory of holding the Landfall of Leif E.ikson, and at the same time the seat of the earliest colony of Europeans in America. If time would permit. I might tell you further of the musor industry; of the fisheries an.l furs and agriculture ; of the amusements, and the republican form of government inherited with the Norse blood; of the social relations of the Indians with the Northmen, and the splendid nuMi found bv Thevet and Verra/.ano, and later by the Pilgrims an.l Puritans, in such samples of chieftains as Massasoit and Uncas and King Philip- I ""gl't point out the course of the Northmen, moving northeastward after the maser blocks of the valley of the Charles had been exhausted ; the traces of their stay on the Penobscot, and tluMr progress through the State of Maine and Nova Scotia to Cape Breton ; the principal causes of the decline of Greenland ; the final departure of the last ship lu the maser trade from Markland (Cape Breton), and its arrival in 1347 m Iceland. T J I ^ Q X DISCOVKUV UV THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORUMHEGA 41 I miKht hint at the linos of roHCirch specially connected with traces of the language of the Northmen, Buch a« the fact recorded by Roger WilliamH that the title -Hachem" or "Haganioro" of the In.lians haH the sa.no root an mk, the Icelandic wonl for " king." All this, how.vor, 1 must, in the u.ain, leave to othorn, who will .-ntor, with now entlum.asn, „,ul n.ore time before then., into tluH fresh held in archu3ologioal and geographical research. It has been BUggested that the trustworthiness of my conclusions might be tested by the spado, -that bronze and pottery shouM l)e sought for. Articles of such materials were not improbably to some extent in use in Vinland and Norumbega. Remnants of much corroded bronze have been found by Nordenskjol.l in Greenland, from which place the early Northmen came. Porous pottery wovdd, perhaps, be less likely to survive m such a climate •• it lias, however, been found in ancient Norway. But of unple- ,nent8 which we know from the Sagas were in use here by the Northmen, wo have found specimens. Thorwald's men subsisted through their fir.t winter on the salmon of the Charles. Here is a stone sinker found near the site of ThorwahVs dwelling-house. I have seen and photographed several others found al,>ng th. banks of the Charles. Sin.ilar to these were the sinkers used by the Indians. Here is an Indian arrow-point picked up on the Held of the battle between Thorf.nn and the Sknvlings, in which a man of distinction. Snorri Tliorbrandson, fell. His body was found, so the Sagas say, with a sharp stone sticking iu his head. If the "sharp stone" may not have been a flint arrow-point, but a stone tomahawk, here is a ^liarp stone that „Kiy bear that name, which was found on the same battlefield. A great stone mortar, such as Northmen used in very early times to grind their grain iu Norway, was foun.l, as already mentioned, near the Bite of the Tower, and is now set in the wall near its base. Copper and brass, in the form of imploments of war or articles of . Glazed pottery, Du Chaillu says, was unknown in U>e north. Montelius says the same. 'J. 42 DISCOVERY OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF NORFMBEGA. 1 < decoration, have been found in graves within the territory of Norumbega. In the grave of Uncas, in Norwich, Conn., a very ancient niiiser-bowl, long used, was found, and is now preserved in the Slater Museum. I have seen stone tablets, bearing inscriptions apparently of great his- toric interest, some of which may have been wrought by men of Norse descent. Mr. Ober, of Beverly, has had them photographed. Such articles, as well as bronze and pottery, possibly await the student. My own search, however, has been less detailed. I have looked for the evidences and seats of certain industries pursued through long periods of time and on a large scale by Northmen ; I have looked for the site and memorials of an historic city, built, long occupied as a seaport, and abandoned many centuries ago ; I have sought the birthplace of the earliest European colony on our shores, and something of its course as a people ; and I have to-day sketched the results of my labors. To show that the Vinland oF Leif wus ^ >i '^ i^ ^iL^jk between (Za^'a Arin omd GahejOod. '♦^""H" 3»i 3f v<r| J«f »| ^ srsp/f^v/us. rrjo. \j j^^gj^Hrom fl.Frenc t) map 1543 SOI./S. K Of No r I u .nub vv ^^ a .^v N o r \l u .nub o. ^ a .^v -^ *yt. XJ^x-%^^'''->-^ r^Ej(a/A!±f VINLAND. By E. H. clement. M MIST AND FLOTSAM. A. D. 1000. Earth endures j Stfln" abiile — Sliiiie ilown in the dUI sea; 01.1 arc till' shores ; liut wIktl' aril old men? I who have seen much Such have I never seen. Here is the land Shat.'t;y with wood With Its old valley, Mound, and lioo<l, But the heritors? Fled like the flood's foam, The lawyer and the laws And the kinjidoiu Clean swept lierefrom. Kmkhson, Earth-Song. Foil Fancy's (,'ift Can nu'unlains litt: The Muse can knit What is past, what is done With the wcIj thit 's just liecun. Emeksos, The I'i'it. SorNDKTU the prophetic wind, The shadows shake on the rock hehind. And the countless leaves <.f the pine are strinRs Tuned to the lay the wood-god sings. Hearken ! hearken ! If thou wouldst know the mystic sonR Chanted when the sphere was young. Aloft, ahroad, the i>aan swells; O wire man, hear' si thou half it tells'? O wise man, hear'st tlum the least part " •'V is the ehronielc of art. To the open ear it sings Sweet the genesis of things. Kmkusun, Woodnoltt. My spirit bows in gratitude Before the Giver of all good. Who fashioned so the human mind That, from the waste of Time hehind, A simple stone, or mound of earth. Can summon the departed forth ; Qui ken the Vast to life again, Ttu' I'resent lose in what hath heen, Anil in their primal freshness show The huried forms of long ago. As it a porlion of that Thought By which the F.tenial Will is wrought, Whose impulse (ills anew with breath The frozen siditude of Death, To mortal minds wen> sometimes lent, To mortal musings sometimes sent, To whi-per — even when it .seems I'.ut Memory's fantasy of dreams — Thr<.ugh the miml's waste of woe and sin, Of an immortal origin! WiiirnKii, 7"»i! Nvrtemen. •mmmttm iritanMettsJI MARE OCEANUM. WiiKN Earth's form and void begun Underneath the ancient Sun, Poured round all the flowing Ocean First obeying Law in motion. First of things terrestrial Acknowledging celestial ; Free still of all governance Save eternal ordinance. Universal potency Lurks in all-embracing sea, All-watering stream, all-nourishing, From seeding unto flourishing; Pervading eailh in myriad form, Now glacier, now summer storm, — Visiting thus but to return Every drop to Ocean's urn ; All-bearing on its broad highway From yonder cape to far Catiiay; Ever the same to all men free, Whoe'er on land may master be, — One law deduces history thence : Tilings continue as commence. Wiien the first savage launched his tree, Bestriding it in southern sea. Then hollowed it, then shaped an oar, He linked tlie whole world shore to shore. So bid we vikings' history 46 Surrender us onr mj-stery. Ui)nian legions' solid walla Till Britons still when they were thralls; But our unfiithomiihlo wave Was ne'er to old Homo's arms tnado slave : Yet Christian Rome's new inlluence Is wider tniced by finer senst) ; Surpassing war, a mission's zeal Red Erie tamed and laid Leifs keel, So the Sea's worshipper devout Will ever draw new wealth thereout. Or noon or niglit, or fair or foul, Patient as fasting monk in cowl, He cons Earth's opening page here spread, A blank still, or, if writ, unread Save by the subtle divination Of Science's imagination. ODi'SSEYS. Man here faced eternity, — Poring on the mystery, Ever venturing in its brink. Better learning not to sink, Still its wide, gray jiastures grazing, Still beyond and farther gazing. The eldest heroes of the world Plied the oar and sails unfurled, The eldest poet sang the Sea: Make us another Odyssey ! Tell us more, and always more ; How they added shore to shore. Out from Posts of Hercules 1 I ^1 47 Toward tho far Ilesperides ; How Atlantis o'eu tlicy boanned, Or believed they traced its atrand, Looniiii}^ in enchanted mist ; How, of sudden, sails were kissed liy scented breeze fioni llajipy Isles Whose fable seamen still beguiles. What an epos, from I'haiuicians Down to merciuuiting Venetians ! Argivo galleys, prows of Uonie, Heaeliing e'en on our old home. Tell how Uome's puissant rule Reaches to the fanhest Tliule, Ami from loua's cloistered halls Christ's spell northmost lauds enthralls. And Iceland, warming in its gleam, Blossoms in church and academe ; Until, Ruri)assing all the earth In learning and in moral worth, Forth sends, in first millennial year, I'rinces and bishops even hero ! WUNDERSTRAND. Tell net us that all is writ Of Ocean's lore, — not us who sit From birth in sight of Ocean's wonder. And dream what therein is or under. Many a record writ in water, Making liistory-books the shorter, Reappears to him who heeds The truth that every law must needs Hear but one fruitage, near or far, T I' t 48 This ngo or Hint, on any star. So clear-eyed Science, sukc, sediito, Hidden by Fancy all elate, Constructs the ships the dreamer dreams, Fi}^uring the very ribs and seams, And, led by poet's ecstasies, More and more of truth still sees. Shore-dwellers never ipiit tlieir stand Of watch upon the wonderstrand. Noting the moods of the changing sea For what new teaching thence may be. E'en seaweed thrilling message bore, "In the sun and the wind and the wild uproar," To him who sang how Hoston Hay Takes Boston in her arms each day. The child tlio salt waves reared beside. Whose jilayfellow is the rising tide. And tiny, monster-peoplfd pool, Among the rocks, his earliest school, — No chapter of a sea romaunt His fervent faith may ever daunt. The time-worn wreck's ribs in the sand For chapel uf devotions stand. He knows the wild-flowers of the deep, The harvests strange that fisliers reap. Eels Portuguese, and sipiids. and whales. He lists old seamen tell their tales; He sees one morn from shining sea A fin revolved all silently. Marking Behemoth's bulk beneath. Or sea-dog's eye in green wave's wreath. He sees the ebl) bare Ocean's bed. And flood the broad seas inland spread; Shudders at storm-rote in tlie night. And finds the broken ship at li^ht. 40 IIo knowH how Iiuiniiij,' Hail round up From uiiderworlil, — tirsl llio miiiiittii>. And Uiun tlio ini/.7,cii, and then tliu hull, Ah up thu long hwuU ridos tliu gull. He onoo beholUti in a miruge l$rig9 hottoin up and 8tranf,'fly largo Slund in tho sky athwart limad Sound, — A 8worn sea-serpent'a sauntering ground, — And harks the nixeys ring the bell Whose dolora mark the east wind's swell. Ills childhood's awe is ne'er forgot Of niaulstroni in steep Shirley (iut, Nor seasoned yet tho ciiild's surpriso Who saw before his infant eyes Side-wheeled Cuiuirder overwiielm Willi I'.riti.sli smoke the wine-glass dm Of Apple Island. Small things? True: Small thing for wonder is it, too, That ships that fared to Greenland's shore Should southwnrd fare a little more: Gloucester now fishes Iceland seas, Iceland then came to I'enikcse, Light then as now did shallop run 0'(!r morning sea in jocund sun, Hands stout as now when night winds rave The rudder gnis{)ed and cut the wave, Sweet then as now the smooth bay's reach, And soft to keel the sandy beach. A marvel greater far it were If ne'er a bold adventurer. To make the fartiiest voyage his boast, Had wandered on from coast to coast. Would such his lengthening leagues have reckoned So long as Blue Hill onward beckoned ? ^J. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 7f IIM - IIIIIM ^. as, 1.4 IIM IIM 1.6 -^ V2 (5> ^ /2 '<^. e: e}. 9. o /, n^ > ">-> / /A Photographic Sciences Corporation #^'^ ^^ O "% V ^ « 4 ^•^\ . -f^ o^ '^'■ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 4580 (716) 872-4503 ^ w. w T Iff 5 60 VINLAND RUNE. t! t [i )• 1 ' SiNO we, then, a rugged rune. In Emerson's and Whittier's tune, — Verse for honest-spoken folk. Compact of stuff as egg of yolk. Simple, blunt, but yet not coarse ; Native, and still something Norse, As is meet for kindred race Dwelling in the very place Where the Norsemen moored their ships And left their names on savage lips. Italian Colon Iceland sought, And tales the bardic sagas taught Of ancient trips to Western seas Were treiisured by the Genoese. Americus's traitorous tale Too long is suffered to prevail: Christopher was not alone Victim for a time outshone, Where that crafty story spread. Other voyages now are read, Other learning now avails, With North and South in balanced scales. Not for all wear are silk and satin ; Not all was writ in Greek and Latiu ; Tongues in rich diversity Make modern university Open arms to newest lore, Thin conceits of old give o'er. Barbarous birth our langiiagt; owns, Gothic pith is in our bones ; Heart of heart in kinsliip warms. 61 With levelling Vtndals' peopling swarms, Sturdiest stocks of old Caucasian, — Liberty, self-rule, their passion, Ever the same from earliest hour To Alfred, King, and our own Mayflower. From folk-mote to the Commonwealth Is one straight march, naught won by stealth, But bold in name of law and right. Of people's need and people's might. Kingcraft nor priestcraft frames decree For them who dare the unpassed Uea. IDYLS. A WONDROUS task waits him who sings The idyls of our uncrowned kings. But who begins must sail with Leif, Eai'l Eric's son, and that oft wife. Fair Gudrid, and wise Kailsefne, And all the sagas' company, — Peering, like pilot, through their lore, Tlie mist and flotsam of our shore, Wafted from tliat hurricane Of Danish vikings from the main That brought Canute to Britain'^ coast, — Spiiwn of her ocean-ruling host, — And reached our capes with circlings spent Ere Harold's dynasty was rent. 'Mid these dark waves of history Comes drift galore with poesy. i Gudrid, the wife of three, the sage and sweet, Gudrid, the mother of that Vinland babe 62 Whose coming made the first home on our shores, Mother of Greenland bishops, and herself In saintly age welcomed as nun at Rome, — Of all sweet women of the idyl's world None than our Gudrid is more debonair. What time brave Leif the title "Lucky" won, Because it was his lot to save a score Of shipwrecked voyagers huddled on a rock In midmost ocean, Gudrid then appears. First Thorer's bride, still but a fair-haired girl, True floweret of the sea, lissome and strong, Sharing her viking's joys and strifes and toils. Leif 8 foster-sister thence, and cherished well: Her husband dead, when suitors came to woo Leifs word decided for her, and by him Was given her hand to Thorstein Ericsson. Penelope was not more chaste and wise : When Thorstein Black folds her within his arms, Beside her second husband's dying bed, She gently puts him by, returns to Leif, And understanding well (so sing the bards), How to conduct herself, with due delay Weds opulent Karlsefne, merchant bold. And with him fares to Vinland. Here one day, As Gudrid sat beside her cradled babe, (The baby Snorro, n;.nicd Karlsefncsson, Grandsire of Ingveld, mother of Bishop Brand,) A shadow filled the doorway, and there stood An Indian woman, but pale and wild of eye, (Such eyes, the saga saith, that none so large Were ever seen in human face before,) With yellow hair, like to the Northmen's locks, A kirtle black and snood, and yearning said, "What art thou called?" "Gudrid," the wife replied, And bade her welcome. " And what art thou called '■" ' 68 "Gudrid," the savage answered, but just then Great din of batile rose without the door, A Skraelling fell slaiu by Karlsefne's band, And fled the great-eyed squaw with yellow hair. So evermore this apparition haunts The Iceland sagas ; and when tales went round Of Greenland ships that never had returned. The fair-haired Skraelling stirred some dread surmise Of Northmen living lost on that far coast, With Skraelling daughters called by old home names. And blond, with yellow hair and wide blue eyes. So Gudrid passes, graceful, gracious form, Amid salt bands of bearded mariners. Bearing to Rome their grail of massur wood, The veinings carven in a woven rede, With Iceland's falcon as a dove of peace. See, for her foil, Preydis, the sister strange Of gentle Leif, manlike as Macbeth's wife, Daughter of Erie, the red handed Earl, Heading the voyage of llelge and Finborg, Plotting against them with outnumbering band, And wlien her stronger will and craft had won Advantage over them and discord reigned. Slew them at nigiit, and since no man of hers Would slay their women, " Give me the axe I " she cried, Nor stayed her arm till all lay in their blood ; Then stormed upbraiding to her husband's bed. Hut bribed her band to secrecy at home Of all the sorry .vork on Viuland shore. TnoRHALL, tlie Hunter, what a figure he For tale of heroes ! Burly, taciturn, Sarcastic, sceptic 'gainst the new-won faith, 64 Thor vaunting over Christ, and breaking off From his companions to scour strange wilds alone. The Melancholy Jacques's prototype 1 Him the fleet-footed Scot slaves sent to save Found lying on a hill-top muttering verse, Breathing the whiles in frenzy strarge and loud. Possessed by spirit of the Norselaud seer. And what a Lancelot these sagaa sing! Biorn Asbrandsou, wooer of Thurid, the wife Of Thorodd, whom the Orkneys' Earl, Sigurd, Owed for the rescue of his tithing-men. An idyl all his own this Biorn claims 1 None but great Meister of the Nibelung's Lied Its towering passions could in art unfold, — Drama of wonders, valkyrs, chivalry, Of combats, bar.ishment, and dauntless plans Of guilty heroism. Tannhiiuser-like, The erring knight to tears of shame is brought By Thurid's brotiier, the priest of Ilelgafell, And 80 flies in self-exile far to the south ; And after many years, when Iceland men, Wrecked beyond Viiiland, faced a warlike host, As sachem (so too Northmen called their king) Under its banner rode an aged knight. Tall, straight, white-bearded, and in Northern speech Addressed them, and so, learning whence they came, Plied them with questioning of things at home. Bade them make sail and flee while yet they might ; But ere they were gone whispered to Gudleif low, " This sword to Kiarten, hero of Froda, take, And to his mother Thurid give this ring!" And so is left this knightly figure here, Foreruiuier, haply, of great sagamores. Friendly Canonicus and Massasoit! 56 ENVOY. Bdild, O, liuild in loftier lino Thau this prosing verse of mine, Poets of our native land, An epic of our wonderstrand, Worthy of the heroes' grace Who first revealed it to tiie race. Lo ! our own heroic age ! 'Tis our classic heritage, Linking us by line direct To demigods too little reciced Since the conquering Latin host Set up their gods for those wo lost. Christian sweetness, Gothic right, Married in one shining light, Breaking mediaeval night. Lit on Europe's northern shore Beacons to burn forevermore. When old St. Botolph's tower was new. For boat-help builded as was due That seaman saint of North Sea's shore. Men still told Gudrid's story o'er, Her pilgrimage, her wise, brave ways, Coupling her works with his in praise. This tower to her folk we rear, A beacon to Discovery, — Since ever truth shall make us free, — That our free thought may wax the freer, Tliat we may welcome aye the new. Patient to try if it be the true. Nor say there is no more to hear.